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A    Confederate    Soldier 
IN  Egypt 


W.   W.    LORING 


Late  Colonil  ix  U.  S.  Abhv,  Um°>-Oii<ikal  in  tri  CoHrcDiiATi  SiivicB, 

a:id  FliBBK  Pacha  and  Giniral  ih  thi  Auiv  or  TUB 

KHKDiva  OF  £cvrT. 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 

DODD,  Mead  &  company 

Publishers 


a  ■■ 


u^M 


7G5392 


CorvuGHT,  tBtt. 


mv 


DODD,  HEAD  A  C0U7ANY. 


TREFACE. 


The  author's  purpose  has  not  been  to  write  a  history  of 
Egypt,  but  to  trace  to  thctr  probable  causes  the  events 
which  have  for  the  last  decade  made  Bgypt  so  conspicuous 
a  thread  in  the  tangled  skein  of  Old  World  politics. 

An  acquaintance  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century 
with  Eastern  lands  and  peoples,  and  ten  years  passed  in 
high  command  in  Egypt  itself,  with  unlimited  opportunities 
for  study  and  observation  in  every  direction,  may  perhaps 
justify  the  writer  in  hoping  that  the  results  here  presented 
may  not  be  unwelcome  to  the  general  reader. 

He  has  endeavored  to  give  in  succinct  outline  such  feat- 
ures of  Egypt's  history,  political,  religious,  and  social,  as 
was  deemed  necessary  to  a  complete  understanding  of  the 
drama  now  being  enacted  on  her  soil.  He  has  dealt  in 
some  detail  with  her  la^t  six  rulers,  more  particularly  with 
Ismail  Pacha,  the  ex-Khedivc,  to  his  thinking  the  only  man 
who  thoroughly  understood  the  wants  of  his  countr>',  or 
who  had  any  adequate  idea  of  how  to  engraft  upon  the 
customs  and  habits  of  a  people  accustomed  for  ages  to  des* 
potism  in  its  most  absolute  form  such  features  of  modem 
civilization  as  would  gradually  open  the  way  to  a  regenera- 
tion of  the  land. 

Another  interesting  figure  has  appeared  lately  in  Egypt 


IV  PREFACE. 

in  the  person  of  El  Mahdi,  a  new  prophet,  who  has  sud- 
denly caused  wonderful  excitement  both  as  a  miiitary  and 
political  leader.  Destined  to  play  an  important  though 
brief  part  in  the  future  of  Egypt,  something  has  been  said 
of  his  antecedents  and  recent  exploits,  together  with  the 
traditional  pretensions  under  the  authority  of  which  he 
assumes  the  role  of  prophet. 

The  selBsh,  cruel  policy  of  the  two  Western  powers, 
France  and  England,  but  more  particularly  of  the  latter, 
has  been  outlined,  to  the  best  of  the  author's  ability,  with 
impartial  truth. 

To  these  main  features  of  the  work  arc  added  brief 
accounts  of  recent  explorations,  and  the  reasons  for  pene- 
trating the  Dark  Continent,  as  well  as  the  influences  which 
operated  upon  Mehemet  Ali,  the  founder  of  the  present 
dynasty,  and  Ismail  Pacha,  the  greatest  of  his  successors, 
in  undertaking  to  extend  the  area  of  their  empire.  As  a 
part  of  this  policy,  encroachments  were  made  upon  the 
frontier  of  Abyssinia.  War  followed  these  ambitious  de- 
signs, and  in  its  train  came  further  financial  and  political 
embarrassments  to  Egypt. 

It  is  therefore  proper  that  there  should  be  given  an 
account  of  the  Abyssinians  and  the  campaign  into  their 
country ;  and  as  the  author  was  a  participant,  he  has 
thought  it  essentia!  to  relate  somewhat  in  detail  accounts 
of  battles  and  the  terrible  tragedieSi  which  followed. 

New  York,  April,  1884. 


CONTENTS. 


PART   I.— EGYPT. 

CHAPTER  I. 

that 

AXEXANDKIA 3 

The  mysierious  past  of  Egypt,  3.— The  Nile  in  the  religious  symbol- 
ism ol  the  country,  4. — The  colossal  ruins  and  strange  political 
mutations  of  Egypt,  4.— The  traveller's  first  impressions,  5.— Mari- 
ette  Bey  and  the  Boutac  Museum.  8. — Recent  changes  in  Egyptian 
character,  t). — Alexandria  and  its  surroundings,  10, — An  Egyptian 
funeral,  13.— The  ruin  wrought  by  English  policy  in  (he  past  and 
present,  17. — How  Christian  England  is  completing  the  evil  nork 
of  Mahometan  misrule,  17. 

CHAPTER   11. 

ROSSTTA 19 

Rosetta,  modern  and  ancient,  ig. — Interesting  associations  of  this  lo- 
cality, 19. — Ruins  and  mosques,  19. — Wonderful  activity  of  bird 
life  during  the  winter  months,  aa.  — Experiences  at  Roseita  and 
other  fortified  cities  on  the  coast,  23. — An  Arab  dinner,  its  eti- 
quette and  its  dishes,  34. 

CHAPTER   HI. 

Mbkemet  Ali 38 

The  birth  and  rise  of  Mehemet  Ali,  28. — How  he  became  Viceroy  of 
Egypt,  39.— His  genius  and  astuteness,  ag. — The  massacre  of  the 
Mamelukes,  32. — Attempts  of  the  Sultan  to  get  rid  of  bis  danger- 
ous vassal,  33.— Mehemet's  wars  and  his  attempts  10  benefit  Egypt, 
33. — Nesle-Hannoum  and  her  husband.  Ahmet  Bey.  34. — Ahmet's 
exploits  in  Upper  Egypt  and  the  Soudan,  3;.  — His  remorseless 
cruelty,  37.— Anecdotes  of  Ahmet,  37. — How  Neslfi-Hannoum  killed 
ber  husband  for  the  supposed  good  of  Mehemet  Ali,  37. — Estraor- 
diaary  character  of  Nesl£,  38.— Her  licentiousness  and  exploits,. 
39. — Incidents  of  cruelty  in  harem  life,  40. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

AntAi  AKi>  SaId  Pachai 4a 

Th«  aCTCNtion  ol  Abtiu.  jcrandiuii  of  Mchemel,  4a. — Hi*  odioiu  and 
detectable  cluracter,  4a.— Praninenitnluol  a  ruler  wbo  was  heart- 
ItM,  avuicioas.  uid  wortblcM.  43.— fita  death  toppoted  to  have 
be«n  liuiigaicd  by  hit  num.  Nealt-Hannoiun.  45. — Succeeded  bjr 
Said  Pacha,  hit  uixle.  Mehemet's  son.  4s-— lacidenis  o<  \a*  leign 
utd  tiaitaol  biichafttctet,  46.— Sard  a  Mraflge  mixture  of  good  and 
evil.  46-~HlaecceiiirleIik«o(putpoMaod  aciion,47<— I-CMcpaaad 
Ike  St>ei  Ciaal.  4;.— Oealfa  of  Said  aficr  a  short  rtiga.  49. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Tanta SO 

A  peculiar  Orlenul  city,  jo.— The  Kens  of  one  uf  ih«  srcaicM  ffte* 
and  t»lrs  of  (lie  Oiieoi,  si.~Scenei  ai  TanU.  S3.~The  Saint  Ah- 
med c1  Bedowec.  jj.  — Hit  fonctlon  w  a  patron  and  Imerceiaor, 
SJ— The  tnotque  raiMd  to  hit  meoionr,  54.— Phaics  of  the  great 
fair,  $4.— A  f[alheriiiK  from  all  part*  ol  the  Mahometan  world,  $5. 
~Th*  Tanu  Kie  a  nitvival  of  the  ticentiuut  orglM  ol  lii*  at  the 
ancient  city  near  ihi«  lite,  j^ — DcrvUhes  and  dandag  giils,  sB- — 
The  gaiBei  ol  the  people,  $9. 

CHAPTER  Vt, 

THs  Fillah  anu  lit'  Mastis 4o 

The  ancTttry  of  the  Ejcypaan  peaaani,  60.— HI*  condition,  past  and 
prMcnt.  60. — Retulis  of  age*  of  alavery  anil  wrclcbcdneu.  61.— 
Miirepretentaiions  ol  hi*  character.  6i.~TfaD  kouibaah  and  ea> 
forced  labor.  61.  — Efforti  made  to  Improve  hi*  condition  during 
the  reign  ol  the  pretenl  djrnaaty.  6>1.>--The  average  Eg)-pliaa.  63. 
— The  clleci  oo  hint  of  hi*  retlKioo,  63,— Itmall'*  aticinpt  10  »wecp 
away  intolerance.  6]-  —  Impossibility  o(  reform  In  Mahometan 
caunii-tes  ei:ccpt  through  a  material  change  in  tbcif  prcMot  rcUg- 
I011.6S. 

CHAPTER  TIL 

IiMAiL  Pacha T'j 

Ismail,  ibe  tueccuor  of  SaTd  Pacha,  7a. — Great  rejotdogs  on  hi* 
aoccMion.  7].— Wealth  and  enerxr  «>  tbl*  prince,  74.— Ht>«  the 
Sua  Canal  cacnc  to  be  buili,  74. — Why  Pharaoh  Nc«tia  In  anclcM 
Egypt  and  Mebemei  Ali  In  modem  Egypt  refuted  to  permit  tuch 
a  canal  to  be  cut,  7;.  — Effects  o(  ihc  Suci  Canal  compljcairons  on 
Egypt,  7S*~l*it)*U'*  course  toward  the  bondholders.  76.— Dc  Lc*. 


CONTENTS, 


VJl 


:  Ml  Abk  and  fbnwd  lehcmcr,  76. — timail'i  poller  *■>  >!>*  fov- 
CTMMDI  ot  ^ypl.  77'— DCKnpEioa  oJ  the  maa,  77-— Ht«  ■tinnpu 
at  tVlwta,  78. 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

CAiao .-. 80 

Changes  made  In  the  cEiy  daring  th«  lut  twenty  year*.  So.— li>  prc*- 
cnt  beautiful  and  European  aapeet  81. — fr^M  due  to  Ismail 
Pacha.  9t. ^Sketch  of  Cairo.  Sa.^Opera  and  theaiie,  83.— Cbri»* 
tlon  •chools  and  mluion*.  83.— Change  in  the  babiu  of  Mabonclan 
lodlui.Si.— Visit  10  the  Pytamldof  Cheops, 86. — The  climb  10  Its  top, 
86. —Theory  touchinji  the  purpoie  of  in  buildrra,  S7. — Viewt  of  dif- 
er«at  arch  iro  log  ills,  87.— The  Sphinx  and  the  Pyramid  oi  Cbephien, 
91. — The  Pyramid*  of  Sakkara  and  the  innnel  ol  the  Sacied  Bull*, 
9s. — Mafletie  Bey'a  wonderful  dUcovery  of  an  unopened  tomb, 
gj.— The  atatue  ol  the  hlKh  prlcat  "  Tl,"  94-— Paintlnit*  dtlineai- 
iof  domeatk  and  rrcry-day  icenca  of  country  lift,  94. — The  ancient 
diy  ol  On  or  Hctlopoliv,  95,— Tornbs  of  the  early  Caliph»,  96. — 
Ceremony  of  flatting  on  the  Mecca  pilgrimage,  g?.— Utter  destruc- 
tion of  Hellopolls,  98. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

HAtHIAOt JOS 

The  nuptial  ceremonies  of  Eicypt,  105— Rein«Kibraac«  of  fairy^lke 
•cenes.  106. —The  proceedings  at  a  Mahometan  marriage,  106. — 
The  marriace  of  Tousaoun,  no. — His  tasics  as  jn  English  scholar 
and  adaUrer  of  Cooper's  novels.  1 10.^  Description  of  one  of  the 
nwM  sorgtoiu  wcddinic*  ever  seen,  1 1 1.— Splendor  equalling  that 
of  the  AnUan  Nights,  11*. 

CHAPTER  X. 

m  Harkm tU 

The  inmate*  of  the  barem,  114.— The  tyranny  of  lite  and  death  ex- 
ercised over  women,  i)}.— What  ihcy  do  and  how  ibey  live  In  thdf 
priaon*.  116. — Preservatioo  of  beauty  the  chief  aim  of  life.  tiS.— 
The  ans  of  ihelolleue,  119.— Eastern  Idea  of  beauty.  I  >a — Jealousy 
la  the  bareoi.  laa.— Cruelty  of  MaJiomctan  husbands.  113. 


CHAPrER   XI. 

Hahouit  ahd  his  Rkligiom iitt 

The  great  Mahometan  mosque  at  Cairo,   ia6.— The  nature  of  the 
rdlgjoD,  137. — Comoion  origin  of  the  Jew*  and  Arsba,  tsS. — Coa* 


VIU  CONTENTS. 

dilions  undrr  which  the  religion  was  founded,  139.— Mahomet  and 
his  career,  130.— Evils  and  sensuality  of  the  system,  131.— Obliga- 
tions of  the  Prophet  10  Jewish  and  Christian  teachings,  132. — 
Present  status  of  Mahometan  ism,  133.— The  relalions  ol  Turltey 
10  the  future  of  Islani,  136.  —  Its  decadence  and  speedy  downfall, 
137. 

CHAPTER   XII. 

The  Nile  Lands  and  their  Cultivation i3r) 

The  ascent  of  the  Nile,  139.  —  Importance  of  the  river  10  Egypt,  139. 
— The  appearance  of  the  banks,  140. — The  oasis  of  Fiyoom,  ihe  site 
of  the  ancient  Crocodilopolis  and  of  Arsinoe.  140. — One  uf  Ihe 
Ed  ens  of  Egypt,  141,— l-egendsand  traditions,  141, —  Ismail's  great 
.  estates  here,  now  the  property  of  the  bondholders,  147. —Some ihing 
more  about  the  fellah  and  his  customs,  14B. — The  most  imporlanc 
men  in  Egypt,  148. — Adherence  to  ancient  customs.  14S. — Millions 
of  dollars  spent  by  Ismail  in  introducing  machinery  and  improve- 
mencs,  149. — Needs  of  Egyptian  (arming,  149. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Thebes 150 

A  glance  at  ancient  Egypt,  150. — Israelitish  bondage,  150. — The  tre- 
mendous gap  in  Egyptian  history,  tsi.— Reign  of  Queen  Hatasou. 
151. — Victories  and  magnificence  of  Thothmes  III.,  151. — Rameses 
II.,  Ihe  Greek  Sesostris.  152. — The  temples  of  Karnak  and  Luxor 
of  Thebes,  158, — Scenes  and  descriptions  on  their  walls,  153. — 
Painting  and  sculpture  on  the  walls  of  the  tombs.  154.' — The  "  Book 
of  the  Dead,"  160.— The  religion  of  old  Egypt,  161. — Perfect  rec- 
ord of  life,  political,  religious,  and  social,  inscribed  on  the  monu- 
ments, 163. — The  ruins  of  Thebes  unsurpassed  for  stupendous 
grandeur,  164. 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

The  Ovekthrow  of  Ismaii 16; 

The  earlier  difficulties  of  Ismail  Pacha,  165. — Protest  of  the  Sultan 
against  the  right  of  Egypt  to  negotiate  loans,  166. — Honr  the  Sub- 
lime Porte  was  bought  over.  166. — The  Khedive  receives  a  firman 
confirming  the  succession  in  his  own  line,  167. — Arrival  of  Mr.  Cave 
in  Egypt  to  Investigate  the  finances,  16S.— Mr.  Cave  repons  their 
hopeless  condition.  169.— Interest  of  $25,500,000  to  be  paid  on  Ihe 
debt  out  of  a  revenue  of  $45,500,000,  i6g. — The  Moukabala,  170. — 
fiy  advice  of  Ihe  English  consul,  England  and  France  are  asked  to 
send  two  comptrollers  of  the  debt,  170. — Arrival  of  Messrs.  Goschen 


co^rsjvrs 


*nd  Joaben,  171.— IimaD  is  (orukea  I17  hit  tt'ieada  tbroaghuut 
Europe.  171-— F<[e  of  Sadik  Pacha,  171.— Tbe  Khedive  U media 
Ibc  ImcinMliuiMl  Court,  i;i.— Airlval  ol  vatt  numbera  o(  Et^iih- 
men  to  iMita  on  the  KhcdiVE,  ■79.~S'ative  cteilu  all  diachaj](ed 
(rom  ihc  kdminltinition.  lyy — Civil  and  lOiliiATr  olGcitUs  mifler 
[ram  noa-paymcni  o<  ■irr^r*,  173.— UmftU  yicldi  up  hb  kbaalnu 
pover  and  becomn  a  coniiiCulional  princv.  174. — He  |;ivct  ap  bit 
private  estate  fur  the  good  of  Eierpi-  175— f'm  bc^nniogi  ol  a 
nMloDiil  p«nr,  17J.— Nubar  Padia  and  liH  mitiiiuy  dtl*«n  (rom 
power.  177.— Umnil  interferes  to  prevent  bloodlbed,  i;B.— He  ii 
depiived  u(  all  power  In  hi*  own  cabinet,  178.— He  boldly  dls- 
mbaci  the  foreigners  and  tcnime*  power,  179.— A  lUe-aad-deatb 
■irusgic,  180. — Itmall  la  ranqulibed  and  depoKd  by  a  fimuii  of  Ibe 
Sulua,  )8l, 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Maiihoud  TKvriK  Pacha 18) 

Careful  iralnine  of  Tc«fik  by  (iiinitfl,  tSj. — Monojruny  enfoKcd  on 
him,  184. — Thorouf-b  education.  184.— Origin»]lv  not  dcalined  for 
Ibe  Ifaione.  184,— Tew&lc'*  personalliy.  i&i.— Great  difficiilile*  at* 
leodlog  TcrAIc'*  aec««lon,  1 16. —Smouldering  h^itc  o(  the  Ar«b 
Bgalnai  (omiicn  rule.  IS7' — Incidents  which  complicated  Ecxptiaa 
•llaira,  187.— Rapacity  and  exacUons  ol  the  European  cnrnpirollcTt, 
iS7.-'The  peaMnt  robbed  o(  his  land.  iS?.—'' Killin);  the  gODM 
ihAt  laid  [hcgoldeti  egg,"  t88.— "  The  Egypiinn  CommiMioa"  con. 
nnicd  to  be  iaicnulional  by  England  and  Prance,  189. — The  Ian 
Miaw  trblch  broke  the  camel's  back,  igi. 


CHAPTBR  XVt. 

AcKUcr  AaADi  Pacha 193 

Arabi  Pacha  as  Gm  known  b>-  the  writer,  19].— HtscilraonliDuyde* 
Totion  to  his  lailh,  193.  — Penonal  cbaracteft«Ilcs  ol  the  man,  194. 
— Catitc*  that  Rmi  placed  him  at  the  head  of  the  S'niional  party.  loj. 
—The  comptiDllert  and  the  Houte  of  Notable*.  i.)6,— Quarrel  over 
Um  uaaatlgned  ici'enucs,  Kro"^°K  ^U'  ■>'  ^^  rapacity  of  English 

officials,  197. — Tewfik  a  mere  tool  of  Eogland  and  France,  193 

Ills  makneat,  raclllaUon,  and  folly.  19$.— Arsbi'a  TirM  tr>'eat  act  as 
a  popular  leader,  au'~'.~EDgliUid,  backed  by  France,  solely  respoo. 
Kible  for  the  attempted  revoliutoci,  30a — Ifcnoble  part  played  by  the 
Sultan.  300,—"  True  inwanlncss'*  of  Ibe  English  policy,  sol. — 
Arrival  of  ibe  English  fteei,  lot.— The  massacre  at  Alexandria  and 
the  bombardment,  105.— Arabi's  siralccy  as  a  K^neral,  90;.— End 
at  Tel-cI-Kcblr,  105.— Arabi's  naUukct,  306.— The  war  on  E^'pt 


Z  CONTENTS. 

rNOlvad   into  a  dctermtnMian  to  keep   iji;  EoglUhnisn   in   Ui 
CHAPTER   XVII. 

A  JoURKKV  TO  MOCNT  SlXAl loS 

PMitng  thfough  the  LAnd  of  Goshen,  308.— lu  AMOclBiioni,  ancient 
■oil  modem.  ao^.  —  Ttie  route  oi  tli«  Itraelites.  tio.  —  Some  ipccultt' 
tions  ntatlng  to  the  patrianh  Joseph,  lis. —The  ilarC  (rotn  Sun, 
aia.^Adreniures  on  the  Red  Sea,  sij.— The  village  of  Tot,  114.— 
The  pleasures  of  dromedary-rid Ing.  315.  --The  lite  of  the  Bedoidn, 
»i6.--Tl>c  dlHercncv  bctireen  ibe  dromedary  and  the  camel,  3i6. — 
The  ArabiaLD  horae  and  iaa%.  at;.~Mlshapa  o(  dewft  travel,  aiB.— 
The  ftpproacb  lo  Gebel  Mu**,  X9. 


CHAPTER   XVIIL 

The  Holy  Mountaih aat 

ArrtTal  at  the  Greek  convent  o(  St.  Catharine,  331. — The  enKmble 
«[  the  scene,  >93.^A  sketch  o(  one  ol  the  oldest  monasteries  in  the 
«tof Id,  »»».— Founded  by  the  Emperor  Justinian.  333.— SucccMivo 
tmdontnenls  by  munartbs  through  intervening  limn.  123. — The 
<amp  by  the  convent  wall.  »J3.^A  (hunderslorro  »t  Sinai,  324. — 
Adveniuie  with  n  jolly  (rlar,  334. — DcKCripilon  of  the  convent 
building*.  3ai.~Tli«  treasures  of  the  chapel  and  shiino,  aaj. — 
Cbapel  o(  the  Burning  Bush.  338.— The  charn«l- house,  aiS.—Tlie 
uceai  ol  Ml.  SInal,  aaq. — What  the  Governor  of  }}onh  Carolina 
■aid  to  the  Governor  of  South  Carolina,  930, — Legends  of  the 
mountain,  aji.^ — View  from  the  mountain-top,  131, — The  ancient 
manna.  3361 — The  vulley  of  Feiran,  137. — The  rival  of  Gel>e1  Muaa, 
33S.—  Extreme  heolthfutncu  of  the  Sinniiic  Peninsula,  13S. — 
Ancient  mines.  331). —Baa- reliefs  and  hieroglyphics.  as^.—ArrlnJ 
again  at  Son,  340. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

TiiK  SuKx  Caxal 341 

Historic  anticipatioD  of  the  Suet  Canal,  a4i- — The  consideration*  that 
deterred  the  ancient  Phonioh,  Necbo.  and  the  modern  Pharaoh. 
Mehemei,  141.— Lcueps's  ftrst  conception  of  the  canal,  343. — A 
project  forty  years  in  hatching,  343. — Said's  rnlhusiaatlc  acccpt- 
anoeat  the  scheme,  343.— Ismail  comes  Into  power  saddled  with 
Sald'i  pledge*  and  a  heavy  debt,  344, — The  forfi  or  (omd  labor 
•yiteni  and  its  abolition  at  the  instance  ol  England,  345. — Ismail  ac- 
cepts the  reirocciaioa  of  the  sweet-waier  canal  and  Ita  adjacent 
lands,  146.— Extraordinary  cUlmi  for  inderoniiy,  146. — Napoleon 


CONTE^rS. 


Kl 


III,  w  aiblimat  gives  it  jnclfHieat  of  84.000,006  Inna  againn  the 
Vfeeroy,  K4A.— The  magnUcent  lltM  on  ibe  completion  o(  the 
c«aal.  347.— Englaad  at  >  tactot  Id  the  present  iiaiu*  ol  tbe  Suei 
Caoal.  347- 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Tmk  Climatb  OF  Ecvw «49 

Preralent  winds.  I4B.— tttOuenM  ol  the  conAeurBtion  of  the  countiy 
on  the cliniate.  149— Desert  oasa  the  moil  lalubrloiu  p&rta  ol  the 
couniry,  349.— Changes  o(  temperfttute.  149.— Range*  of  heat  in 
winter  and  tuminer,  a4g.-~Dlflcrcnce«  belircen  Alexandria  nod 
Cairo,  949.— Dangers  to  the  invalid  in  going  up  the  Nile,  S50. — 
Sudden  changes  at  night  and  in  the  early  morning,  15a.— Foreign 
and  dative  physicians  in  Egypt,  IJI- — Anecdote  o(  Dr.  Wamn  Bey, 
asi. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

UTIflUt  OFECVPT.  ..,- 9JA 

3Uh  policy  In  Egypt.  35a. — Excuse  lor  retaining  her  army  there, 
35). — England  mponslble,  353.— Soudan  and  equatorial  rtfiocit, 
1S4-— Meh«tn«t  All  (onquets  the  Soudan,  354. — Central  Africa  and 
slave-hunters,  354. — The  bloody  trail  of  tbe  slave-trader  and  kour- 
bash, 154.— The  touch  o(  infamy  by  Abbaa  Pacha,  354-— Policy  of 
Said  Pacha,  354.— Bflort  of  Ismail  to  extend  his  empire,  ssj.— 
Bolter  appointed  GoTcmor  of  the  Dark  Region.  355. — Chinese 
flotdon  appointed,  356.  — Explorations  of  English  and  American 
siafl-cITiccrs,  356.  — Elephsnis  introduced,  357.— Gntdim  resigns. 
358,— Reappointed  with  extraordinary  powers,  3S9- — Tbe  Soudan  in 
debt  and  boundaries  diminished,  359.— Gordon  retires  again,  359.— 
Money  legitimately  expended,  ibo.  — Rich  lands  and  untouched 
tlCMorlc*,  360.— Untolil  possibililica  (or  commerce,  160,— Vast 
acrca  tor  cotlen  and  cane.  160, — England's  opportunity  and  Egypt's 
hope,  360.— Assouan  and  Philx  the  ancient  boundary-line  ot  Egypt, 
a6i.— Thecajnel  and  bis  carrying  poner,  adj.— The  Atbora  River 
and  Its  wonderful  work.  1^5. — The  town  otCostalla.  366.— Railroad 
scheme  of  Khedive.  370,— Greatest  tcbeme  of  modern  times,  370.— 
Teeming  millioDS  of  "Let  nolt  lea  negres."  370. — Abandonment 
of  Soudan,  371.— Wild  pandemonium  of  slave- hunters.  373.  — (small 
only  man  to  gorem,  37J.— Ismail  great  lots  to  Egypt.  J73. — Tewfik 
EoglaDd's  tool,  373,^ — HumiUaiing  position,  373. — England  refuses 
"10  urry  her  own  iktn  to  market."  373,— England's  responsibility, 
374— Khanogm  centre  of  trade,  J74-— Title  of  Khedive.  374.—  Back- 
•hcesh  and  Dltrioe  n'ght.  374.— No  tympsthy  for  the  slave,  374.— 
nail  opposes  slavery,  174.— Opinion  in  leucr  of  General  Siona, 


o^Tbats. 


S74.— DiwrgMiiation  of  Soudan  aad  El  Blahdi'*  opponiuiJir.  377-— 
Rain  of  Eg;pt.  a??- — Tlie  Khiiilow  ol  ihc  uraniier,  377  — Hi&iory  of 
El  UahdI.  3;S.~Bi>lli  iinil  cvncealmem,  a79.^1>aiit  jmlj{meiil  iuid 
triunpcc  blut.  379.~EI  M^htli  take*  advantaKc.  180. — Walub.  r«- 
fomicT  *nd  purlun  of  ihcdenert.  zBo.— El  Mahdi  conqucis  Voscf. 
Illcks  and  Baker  Pm-Iikb.  33  i.— Political  [inpurURC«,  3S1.— CI 
Mobdl  Ai  a  ptopbet.  3S1. — MiUiometao  belief  in  El  Mabdi.  383. — 
Fired  ifae  Araib  beiui,  3S3.— Xoir  called  Kldirtych  Doviifa,  3S3. — 
Ilcily  iiii-'ii  un<]  m)'«ii<:»l  ^ijtns.  383.— Ex-Khcillrc't  opinioo,  3S4. — 
laltucncc  uf  another  Maliuuici,  385.—  Suci  Caiul  iiinccure,  3G5. 


?ART  II.— MILITARY  EXPERIENCES  IN  ABYSSINIA. 

CHAPTER   I. 

"The  K»iM>ivr'»  Anxirrr  roil  Araicaw  Cowvukst 389" 

Ancient  telatlona  ol  Ethiopia  to  Egypt,  3S9.— The  modern  Pharaohs 
pcfpciuatinji  the  traditions  of  (heir  predcceMoi*.  ago.— Ismair*  ArM 
step  towjiti]  AaiiiinK  Uie  key  of  Ceotral  Afriui,  391. — Th«  atippm- 
tiOD  of  the  sUve>ttadi;  made  (he  plausible  exctue  [or  cu(it|UM(,  igs- 
— Ismail's  dteam  of  including  in  his  kingdom  oU  Ihc  land  of  the 
Nile,  3gS. — Armed  exploring;  paitici  lent  out,  300. — The  dating 
adventures  of  Colonel  C.  C.  Lonj;,  300.— Olhcr  mptoiing  cxpeiti- 
tlonSi  300. — AnnckatioD  toiu:hI  under  the  ple&  of  science  and 
bunaniiy,  300.  —  Aircndrup's  expedition  agalmi  King  John  of 
Abjrsslnla  (n  |37J,  301.— His  olEcers  and  the  conipoaiiion  of  bis 
fotcr,  30«.— His  little  army  cut  to  pieces  by  Kinjj  John  In  (he  valley 
of  the  Mareb.  303.  — Escape  of  scattered  detachments  under  Majors 
Dc>tn>«on.  Dotholii,  jind  Ralf,  joj. — Melancholy  cod  of  an  unfonu- 
note  cxpetliiioo,  305. 

CHAPTER  II. 

:iA— Its  Uistoky  AMD  Inhabitants 307 

Tht  geogtapby  of  (he  country,  307— Vegetable  llic.  309. — Races  in 
Ab]r»tinlB.3ia — Cbaracteristicsol  theclhnatc.  jio.— The  origin  ot 
the  Blue  Nile.  311.— Gorernment  and  social  Icatares,  313.— Abys- 
sinia a  feudal  raonaichy,  3IJ.— The  fauna  of  the  re^on,  313.— ^Th© 
flDcst  hunting  ground  in  the  ntoTld.  313,— Agriculture  and  slavery. 
514.— Relation  ol  Aliystinin  10  ancient  Egypt, 314.— Ancient  nionu- 
DieniB.  3 IS-— Traditions  ol  ihe  people,  316. — Curious  facts  aboui 
their  religion  and  Its  history,  317. 


C 


COAfTENTS. 


xUi 


CHAPTER  ni. 

null 

Habits  AND  CciooMt  in  Auvssima 319 

The  PortugocM  iii  Abyi&inin,  3'9' — liilcf««tin|;  rcmaim  of  their  occn- 
puJoa,  J19.— Terrible  loligioun  IcuiIh.  jji.— Th«  fise  of  Theodora* 
Rod  bll  dclcii  by  the  English.  3}!.  — King  John's  »c<eMk>n  to 
pow«(,  ]ii.— Phynlciil  lypc  ul  ihe  Abyuioun.  }>]. — Coatunw  aod 
oraameDli.  ]l3.~The  Abynininn  numcn,  jjj.— Law  and  hs  od- 
mlnUlcailnn,  3^~I'<it>»b'"ciit  lor  bomidde.  thcli,  eit.,  314.— The 
fuottion  of  the  Abouna  or  MetropoUun,  Jib.  — 1'hc  tcliBtout  creed. 
336.— MoDogaiay  and  mjtni.igc.  jaS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Staut  or  THE  EoyniAN  EsraomoK  roK  AbTUtKiA 3*9 

Tlic  MUthor  onJered  10  Cairo  10  take  conimand,  319. — He  ia  altoiif  Ard 
icploMd  by  Rktib  PmIu  and  mado  accund  in  autboHty,  ]>9.— 
Debain  ovor  lh«  czpcdiiion  in  ih«  Khcdire'i  council.  330,— Skclcb 
of  NuIku  Pacbo.  the  Prime  Miniucr,  33'\  — CheiK  Pacba.  hii  rival, 
J3>.— The  Injuaction  lupicucd on  Ruilu  Piicbit. 333.— OrKaoiiatloa 
of  Ih«  (orcM.  3)3.— Preparalion  (or  Ihc  campaign.  334. — Oil  (or 
Ihe  Geld,  336.— Traaspon  over  ibe  Red  Sea,  336.— Tunnol)  at 
Mnstowab,  336.— DcacTiption  o(  the  town.  337. 


CHAPTER   V, 

PUTAKiNcroRTiiE  Cawpaign 

Arrival  of  Pilncc  HaMao  lor  aenice  on  Ibc  itall.  339.— Luxury  of  hia 
ouilil.  340,  — [)i«corda  ajid  Intrlgne*  at  headquarlcr*.  340.— Ahmed 
Bey,  Goremor  of  Mattowab.  341. — PreaainK  need  oj  an  early  march 
4nd  the  route  aelectcd.  3.11.— Delay  from  the  difficulty  In  getting  n 
camel-lrain,  341.-  Secret  opiioaliion  of  RaiJb  Pacha  10  the  ptote- 
culion  ol  the  CRmpaigo,  34a.— Serious  difficultiea  vhich  the  chief  of 
•laA  hod  to  meet,  341.— Arrival  of  tcleatcd  prUoner*  aodamcMcD- 
ger  from  Kinx  John,  34$,— The  horrible  condition  of  the  mutilated 
ptisoricra  anil  the  effect  on  the  EKyptiana,  34s.  — Detention  of  th« 
Engtiihmao  Klrkhan,  the  envoy  ol  Kinc  John,  as  a  prisoner,  343. 
— Klrkham"s  icnalble  adrlcc,  347. 


331 


CHAPTER  VL 

rHING  ABOtfT  TMIl  OdGANttATIOS  A.VD  PSSSOXMKL  Of  TUB  ECVT- 
1AN  hXiXr  AKD  TIIK  AUVIMMAH  EXTXtllTtON 349 

The  boaia  «(  the  Ecypiian  military  force,  349.— Early  fervicca  of 


xlv 


COKTE.VTS. 


Colonel  SivM.  a  MoMutman  Frcnc^hman,  349.— Assigamenis  to 
sufl  duty,  34^.— General  Sione'i  difficuUiea  in  !UfI  org«nliation. 
350.— The  Minlneit  of  Wat  i«aloui  o(  the  Ewi-Msjor,  3S7.— 
Ratib'i  haiteil  ot  the  Maff  (civlcie,  35S.— Oetcriplion  >ad  sketch  ol 
Ralib.  JSV' — One  of  the  moxt  cowarilly  and  Incapable  of  command- 
en.  360.^ — Something  mote  toncetniDg  [he  American  officers  in 
Egypt,  36a— The  auihor't  connctiion  tiith  the  Khedive't  atmy. 
361.— AMigned  to  (lie  nelive  command  of  the  army  and  navy.  361. 
—The  .\nicriCiin  and  foreiicn  oIGcer*  u*lKn«d  to  Uie  Abytslaian 
expedition.  3&a.— The  Egyptian  stalT,  3^1- 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Ths  March  ihto  the  iNTxttiox 36s 

Lleuicnani-Colonel  Graves  left  at  Ma««owHlt  to  fuatd  the  rear  *a4 
hold  the  bMC  ot  couimuiiication!.  365.— The  baggage  lightened  to 
meet  the  lack  of  transportAtioo.  366.— Breaking  up  c»mp.  366. — Ad- 
rentutes  on  Ibe  march.  36;.— The  Hon  ol  Abyssinia,  and  the  way 
he  is  hunted,  3(11).— Arrival  »l  Addi-Raseo,  371.— An  AbyMinlen 
paradiee,  371. — Another  reorganiiation  of  the  baf^gage  train.  371. — 
Colonel  Dye's  assault  on  Ibrahint  Luify  Ellendi.  373. — Colonel  Dye, 
mnmoned  before  a  coun-matilal,  resigns,  373, 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

iNCIDKXTS  kXH)  EXPSRIKNCSS  or  OUK   PxnGRKSS 374 

Example  ol  Arab  fanaticism,  374. — Profusion  of  animal  life,  37S. — Fine 
maithing  qualltle*  of  Egyptian  troops.  37$, — Front  view  of  the 
valley  of  Guia.  37b. — Ratib  suddenly  changes  the  predetermined 
plan  without  consulting  the  cfaief<of-stalJ.  377.— Characteristics  ot 
Ibe  Bora  of  the  country,  377. — Attival  of  an  Abyssinian  chief 
hostile  to  King  John.  37B.  — His  proffered  services  refused,  378.— 
Abbi  r>uflot  I*  sent  for  by  the  commanding  general,  379. — Sei^ 
vices  rendered  by  this  able  and  deroied  man,  3S0. — Another 
instance  of  Raiib'i  cowardice  and  folly,  3la  — He  finally  agrees  10 
move  further  Into  the  valley  of  Gura,  3S0  —Continued  blundering 
in  changing  a  position,  3S1.— Genetal  Field  sent  to  the  rear  to 
regulate  the  base  of  supplies  and  communications  and  to  urge 
forward  supplies.  381.— The  ramel  and  his  Importance  In  the 
desert,  333.— The  camel  curmoriuit,  383. — How  Ratib'a  prncUma- 
llon  was  received  by  King  John,  383. — Anothet  disaffccled  chief 
olTeis  his  services  to  the  Egyptians.  386. — Conversation  with  llill 
chief,  3B9. — The  dangerous  diseases  prevalent  in  Abjssinla,  389. — 
The  mask  of  the  country,  390. 


CONTENTS. 


XT 


CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Lull  axroxi  tiik  Stoih 391 

Ralib  diipows  n(  his  woulil-t«  Abyulnun  aUlM,  39a.— V>lii  altempu 
(o  ofgiuiit«  a  iritcm  of  Kouiiitf  partka,  39}. — The  lerrible  (right 
of  (he  commandmg  general,  394. — MoTeaeou  of  Kinn  John,  3^- 
— The  AbyumUn's  reputed  mesuge  10  Ralib,  39$. — Fklee  alattni, 
3Q&— Demorallmtlon  of  tbi  EsrPC""^  396.— Uiter  Uck  ol  capocUy 
and  eooiage  \a  Ralib,  397.— The  council  o(  w*r.  397.— General  Lor 
\ng  ezpUini  the  *liiMtion  and  Uf*  down  a  jiUn  ol  operationa,  398. 
— Hi*  advice  )|[nared  by  the  council,  400.— What  Pilnce  Hmmo 
•aid,  401.— Otman  Pacha  onlcrcd  to  desert  Khayik  Khor,  bill  the 
order  countermanded,  401.— Utter  •ronhlcMneM  »(  Otinui,  401. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Tub  Battls  or  GvitA 401 

Fanher  evidence  of  Ratib'i  incomprlcnce,  403. — Approach  o(  Klog 
John  with  hi*  hordeik  403.~Ratib  oiders  the  force  out  ol  the  (utI 
into  (he  ralley.  404.— Gcricral  Lotlng'*  first  inprenion  tlul  th« 
moTemmt  wm  to  concemraie  at  Khaya  tChor.  404-— DUcoveriitg 
the  mUiakc.  he  Uket  means  la  secuni  the  new  po*kion,  404.— Ac- 
tivity of  the  American  oibccra,  403. — Appearance  o(  the  Abyisialan 
Tsnguard.  407.— Abject  llixht  of  the  commandlnB  Bcneral,  411. — 
Preparation*  (or  receiving  King  John's  attack.  41a,  — Ralib  refuses 
10  advance  a  (Icirniliih  line.  413.— Topographv  ol  the  valley  of  Gara, 
411, — Unproiecicil  titiiation  of  th«  ligbi  of  the  F.^yptian  line,  413. 
—Vain  attempts  made  to  have  it  iirenjthened.  413. — Situation  of 
the  Ino  lorcet.  413.— The  Egypilan  army  demorallied  by  (heir  com- 
atUMler'a  cowardice.  413. — King  John's  amucntem  at  the  petition 
of  the  Egyptian  army.  413.— He  turns  Ratib'*  tight  flank.  41}'^ 
Vain  endeavor  ol  General  Loring  to  order  up  retnforccmeau.  417. 
— Ratlb  deliberately  run*  (rom  the  lield,  fallowed  by  aUrfc  por 
tlon  of  hti  army,  419.— Futile  altempu  oi  Prince  Hassan  and  the 
American  officer*  (o  rally  the  lugttlrcs,  4aoL — Raschid  Pacha,  com- 
manding ibe  right,  ulain  while  gallantly  fighting,  411.— The  retrtai> 
iDg  Egyptians  dcsened  by  their  officers,  misa  the  foil,  and  rush  on 
lbs  weapon*  of  their  foes.  411.— A  bloody  mastacte,  411.— Attempt 
made  by  Lorlng  Pacha  to  perauade  Ratib  to  a  nlgbt  oiuck  on  the 
enemy'*  camp,  4*1. — Ratib'*  tcCuaal.  411.— A  thEnlag  exainple  of 
ignorance,  stupidity,  and  cowardice,  411. 


Xvi  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

PACE 

Thk  Close  of  the  Campaign 423 

Ratil)  refuses  to  send  out  [or  his  vounded,  413. — Boldness  of  the  ene- 
my in  coming  up  under  the  walls  of  the  (on,  424.-  The  Abyssin- 
ians  make  a  resolute  onslaught  on  the  fort,  42;. — Their  bloody  re- 
pulse, 426. — Flight  of  Che  enemy  after  heavy  loss,  437. — The  Egyp- 
tians mutilate  and  partially  burn  the  bodies  of  the  dead  Abyssinians. 
423. — Indignation  and  horror  of  tbe  American  staff,  429— King 
John  makes  reprisals  by  murdering  six  hundred  prisoners  in  cold 
blood,  431. — American  and  European  officers  captured  in  (he  first 
day's  battle,  431. — Example  of  kindness  on  the  part  of  Abyssinian 
women,  433.— The  loss  of  Egypt  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
433. — Assault  of  Egyptian  soldiery  on  friendly  Abys'inian;^,  who 
saved  the  lives  of  their  wounded.  433.— Raiib  Pacha  sem's  de- 
spatches deceiving  the  Khedive  as  to  the  results  of  the  battle.  433. 
—  He  is  directed  to  conclude  peace,  434. — Negotiations  with  King 
John,  435- — He  secretly  steals  away  with  baggage  and  men  while 
these  arc  pending,  435. — A  coward  in  war  and  a  traitor  in  peace, 
436- 

CHAPTER   Xir. 

Conclusion 437 

Dr.  Johnson's  account  of  his  captivity  among  the  Abyssinians,  437. — 
Saved  from  death  by  Welled  Sallassee,  437.— Death  of  Dr.  Me- 
hemet  Ali,  439.  —  Sad  case  of  Major  Dorholtz,  440.  —  Terribly 
wounded  and  brutally  created,  441.— Slain  in  a  duel  with  Count 
Tumbeysen  after  returning  to  E^ypl,  442. — Implication  of  Prince 
Hassan  in  the  matter,  442. — Incidents  farcical  and  tragical  before 
Abyssinia,  443. — Evil  influences  which  sapped  the  miliury  regime, 
445. — Deep-sealed  hostility  of  officers  and  men  to  the  Abyssinian 
war,  446. — Statu  quo  anil  Mlum,  446.  —  Unfortunate  effects  of 
Egyptian  failure  on  the  Khedive's  power  and  prestige,  446. — A  per- 
sonal word  about  the  relations  of  General  Loring  with  the  Khe- 
dive and  his  court,  446. — Decorations  received  for  distinguished 
service,  450. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Larittg  Pacha,  F/rtei  ami  General Frontispiece. 

Map  ef  Egypt,  Abyssinia,  and  the  Soudaa Facing  p.  3 

The  Obelisk    novi  in  Cenira!   Park,  A'nii    Yerk,  as   it   Stand  in 

Alexandria,   Egypt "  lO 

Cleopatra,  /ma  the  Jtuitu  ef  Dend/ra "  16 

Street  in  Cairo "  30 

Ismail  Pacha,  late  Khedive  af  Egypt "  7a 

Children  of  Ismail,  late  Khedive  of  Egypt "  83 

The  Gnat  Sphinx— Geezeh "  90 

Bust  of  Ckephren  or  Shafed.   Builder  ef  the   Seeend   Geeteh 

Pyramid .  ^  .,..,,. -  - ,*,.,.>..  ^  ^.  ..  ^.  .  -  ..  .  "  92 

Obelisk  of  Ustirlasen  I,,  at  Heliopolis "  94 

Priests  Preparing  Mummy  for  Burial.    Kesurrectieti  ef  the  Body,  "  98 

Ileetd  of  Nefert-Ari-Aahmes,  Queen  of  King  Aahmes,  Conqueror 
ef  the  Hyksos 


Harp-player,     From  an  Egyptian  Painting 

Wooden  Statue  of  Sheik-el-BeUd 

Profile  of  Ha-ho-tep.     Face  of  Neferie 

The  Ancient  Egyptians  thrv-aiing  the  Virgin  into  the  Nile. 

Egyptian  Water-  Wheel 

Ratntset  II.  and  Three  Sons  Storming  a  Fortress 

Thothmes  II. 

Head  of  Queen  Hataioa  

Butt  ef  Thothmes  III. 

The  Memnen  Colossi,  Thebes 


100 

103 

104 
io6 

140 

144 
146 
ISO 
15a 
154 
IS6 


XTlll 


UST  OF  ILLUSTitATlONS, 


Head  tf  Xameia  II.,  the  PkaroBk  vikt  fmeeultJ  tht  IiratliUs.  Facing  p.  15B 

Seti  I.  IVoriAifpijtg  Oiirit,  Iiii,  and  Uona "  iGo 

Cauri  in  the  Temple  af  Rametis  III. "  163 

Egyptiati  Pharaoh  in  a  tVar-Choritt,  Warrior,  and  Hersei..,,  "  164 

Suineil  Avenue  ef  Sphinxes "  166 

Tewfik  Patha,  Kke£vi  »f  Egypt "  184 

Head  of  Menephthah,  the  Pharaoh  ef  the  Exodus "  113 

The  Plain  before  Sinai,  nhere  the  Israelite!  tiiere  Eneamped. , .  "  333 

St  Letseft "  340 

Bedouin  of  the  Desert  and  his  Camel. "  353 

Remains  af  Small  Temple  at  Phila "  36o 

Ancient  Roek-ent  Tomb "  s63 

Looking  South  from  Temple  Roof  at  PhiU  "  364 

Modern  Slave-Beat  en  the  NiU "  373 

King  John "  390 

Laht  T*ana "  313 

Obelish  at  Axuia "  316 

Bridge  Across  the  Bltu  Nile "  330 

Abyssinian  Girl "  334 

Clptic  Ckurck  at  Adoua  "  338 

Hassan  Paeka,  Son  of  Ismail "  330 

Ralii  Pacha,   Commander  ef  the  Egyptian  Army  in  Afysiima.  "  360 

Map  of  Plaint  of  Gura  and  Haala "  403 

The  Battle  ef  Pert  Gura "  434 

Palate  at  Gondar. "  438 


PART  I. 

EGYPT, 


ALEXAtfDSiA. 


vellous  fruitfulness  would  speedily  become  an  arid  waste. 
The  bounty  of  the  Nile  lands  is  the  wonder  of  eveiy  travel- 
ler ;  and  this  fruitfulness  is  guarded  by  the  Mokattum  and 
Libyan  hilk  as  by  nature's  sentries.  On  those  hills  the 
desert  winds  are  broken,  and  the  valley  is  thus  preserved 
from  the  choking  drift  of  sand  which  would  otherwise  cover 
its  fair  surface,  converting  it — in  spite  ol  the  inundations — 
into  a  desolate  plain. 

To  the  primitive  Egj'ptians  water  was  the  obvious  source 
of  life,  the  necessary  .igent  of  the  earth's  fruitfulness;  the 
Nile  was  their  benefactor  and  the  chief  of  their  divinities. 
Their  conception  of  it  gave  to  the  great  river  a  human  form, 
in  which  the  characteristics  of  both  sexes  were  combined. 
To  make  it  still  more  typical  of  observed  facts,  they  cov- 
ered this  figure  with  the  leaver  of  various  plants  in  the 
form  of  a  great  rainbow.  The  office  of  this  Nile  numca  was 
to  make  offerings  to  the  great  gods  of  Egypt,  in  the  name 
and  behalf  of  the  Pharaohs.  Before  this  Nile  god  were  set 
four  vases  containing  the  sacred  water,  each  separated  from 
its  fellows  by  a  sceptre.  By  ^s^ry  fact  of  life  and  every 
device  of  symbolism  the  people  were  taught  reverence  for 
the  Nile,  and  it  taxed  their  imaginations  veiy  little  to 
invest  the  river  with  so  holy  a  character  that  a  person 
drowned  in  its  w.iters  was  held  to  be  sacred.  The  corpse, 
in  sucli  a  ca.sc,  could  be  touched  and  embalmed  only  by  the 
priests  at  the  expense  of  the  temple  specially  dedicated  to 
the  god  of  the  Nile. 

Standing  on  the  main  heights  of  the  Libyan  and  Mokat- 
tum hills  and  surveying  the  seemingly  boundless  desert 
through  which  the  Nile  courses,  the  spectator  is  impressed 
with  the  awful  grandeur  and  solitude  of  the  scene.  In  con- 
templating, too,  the  great  ruins  beneath  these  hills  which 
fringe  the  silver  thread  of  the  river  from  the  Pyramids  to 
Isamboul,  the  mind  is  still  more  awed  by  the  stupendous 
structures  which  the  genius  of  man  has  raised  there.  The 
wealth  of  the  Nile  waters  and  the  aridity  of  the  deserts 


ALEXANDHIA. 


bordering  the  stream  gnve  rise  to  the  beautiful  fable  of  the 
ancients  that  Osiris — that  was  the  river,  the  greatest  of  all 
the  Egyptian  gods — had  for  his  spouse  the  sweet  and  lovely 
Isis,  who  represented  the  fruitful  Earth.  The  desert  they 
embodied  in  Nepthis,  another  interesting  divinit>',  whom 
they  made  the  sterile  spouse  of  Typhon.  the  pod  of  rain. 
The>'  held,  further,  that  Nepthis  could  only  be  made  benefi- 
cent through  the  power  of  Osiris. 

Amrou,  the  Mussulman  conqueror  of  Egypt,  in  a  letter 
written  twelve  hundred  years  ago  to  Omar  the  Khalif,  well 
described  the  extraordinary  changes  wrought  by  the  inun- 
dations :  "  To  the  most  abundant  harvest  succeeds  sud- 
den sterility.  It  is  thus  that  Egypt  offers  successively, 
O  Prince  of  the  Faithful,  the  image  of  an  arid  and  sandy 
desert,  of  a  liquid  and  silvered  plain,  of  a  marsh  covered 
with  black  and  thick  soil,  of  a  green  and  undulating  prairie, 
of  a  parterre  ornamented  with  flowers  the  most  varied,  and 
of  a  vast  field  covered  with  a  golden  harvest.  Blessed  be 
the  name  of  the  Creator  of  so  many  marvels  !" 

More  than  twenty  years  since,  after  visiting  the  different 
kingdoms  of  Europe  and  while  in  the  interior  of  Russia, 
where  intercourse  between  the  people  of  Asia  and  Europe 
is  constant,  the  writer  became  specially  interested  in  the 
peculiar  habits,  customs,  and  dress  of  the  Eastern  nations. 
He  then  determined,  before  returning  home,  to  visit  Con- 
stantinople, Damascus,  and  Cairo,  where  the  Oriental  can 
be  seen  and  studied  better  perhaps  than  in  any  of  the 
other  great  capitals  of  the  East.  The  interest  engendered 
more  than  twenty  years  ago  has  been  more  recently  deep- 
ened and  intensified  by  a  long  official  residence  in  Egypt  ; 
and  the  experience  thus  gained  may,  it  is  hoped,  interest 
the  reader. 

The  traveller  landing  in  Alexandria  looks  on  a  city  o( 
which  Ampdre  graphically  says :  "  It  was  founded  by 
Alexander,  defended  by  Carsar,  and  taken  by  Napoleon." 
Embellished  by  Ptolemy,  it  became  the  most  famous  city 


ALEXAA'JffllA. 


of  its  day  ;  but.  suffered  to  fall  into  decay  under  Christian 
and  Mussulman  ni!e,  it  is  only  in  these  latter  days  that  it 
has  again  arisen  from  it»  dejection  under  the  inspiration  of 
Mehemet  AH  and  his  successors,  but  more  especially 
under  his  grandson,  Ismail  Pacha. 

The  last  twenty  years  had  done  wonders  for  Alexandria, 
until  recent  Christian  diplomacy  laid  the  fairest  portions  of 
the  city  in  black  and  unsightly  ruin*.  Entering  the  port, 
formerly  an  open  roadstead,  a  beautiful  revolving  light,  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Pharos,  guides  the  seafarer  into  one 
of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  Levant.  To  Ismail  Pacha  the 
country  is  indebted  for  this  surprising  change.  He  it  was 
who  constructed  the  grand  and  cosily  breakwater  which 
incloses  numerous  solidly  built  quays.  The  harbor  is  filled 
with  shipping  which  anchors  in  perfect  safety,  thanks  to 
the  energy  of  the  late  Khedive.  At  the  landing  the 
familiar  Oriental  scenes  are  encountered.  That  very  ques- 
tionable product  of  modern  civilization,  the  tide  waiter,  is 
here.  The  guttural  tones  of  the  Arab,  intent  on  his  piiiatre, 
drowns  all  other  noises,  and  the  traveller  is  but  too  glad  to 
get  under  the  patronizing  protection  of  his  dragoman,  a 
nondescript  and  objectionable  but  necessary  person,  who 
pushes  him  into  a  carriage. 

Though  amused  with  his  first  impressions  of  the  pictur- 
esque Oriental  scene,  the  traveller,  unaccustomed  to  the 
din  of  a  people  unlike  any  he  has  ever  encountered  before, 
is  delighted  to  get  away  from  the  noise  and  tunnoil.  He 
congratulates  himself  on  this,  his  first  visit  to  Egypt,  on 
having  made  his  way  safely  through  the  greatest  confusion 
of  tongues  and  the  most  dissonant  screeching  and  yelling 
with  which  his  ear  has  ever  been  assailed.  Proceeding 
further  his  amusement  increases  as  he  passes  through  the 
narrow  Arab  streets  lined  with  small  shops,  and  his  joy  is 
complete  when  he  finds  himself  quietly  seated  at  his  fine 
European  hotel,  where  he  can  breathe  freely  and  leisurely 
retemper  his  nervts  for  another  essay  among  these  people. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


It  does  not  take  him  long  to  gain  a  realizing  sense  of  the 
fftct  that  he  is  in  the  East,  in  the  midst  of  a  race  totally 
different  from  his  own  in  customs,  color,  dress,  and  rclig- 
ion.  Having  fought  his  first  battle  and  won  it  by  a  mas- 
terly retreat,  he  finds  his  new  acquaintances  harmless  and 
amiable,  extremely  anxious  to  serve  him.  always  provided 
the  piastre  is  at  once  forthcoming.  This  understood,  he 
sallies  forth  with  renewed  cncr^  to  new  scenes  and 
encounters,  and  is  greatly  delighted  that  tlie  fates  have 
guided  him  to  this  distant  land.  Next  he  is  astonished  at 
the  broad,  well-paved  streets  of  the  new  city,  with  its 
eolossal  statue  of  Mchcmet  Ali  in  the  grand  squnre,  and 
itsstonc  buildings  which  would  beautify  any  European  city. 
There  is  one  nuisance  which  meets  him  at  every  turn — 
namely,  the  traditional  beggar,  whose  cry  for  backsheesh  is 
agonizing  and  whose  deformity — which  the  Arab  petitioner 
thinks  a  blessing — is  painfully  obtruded  upon  attention. 
SooOf  however,  one  learns  the  magic  Arab  expression 
"  Rue  al  Allah"  ("  Go  to  the  Lord  ").  which  acts  like  a 
charm  and  sends  the  beggar  flying  as  though  the  Khedive 
himscU  were  after  him  with  uplifted  kourbash. 

It  is  diflicult  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  impressions  made 
upon  one  by  early  experiences  in  this  strange  land.  One  is 
haunted  by  a  persistent  but  indefinable  sense  of  the  great* 
ne&s  of  the  race  that  inhabited  it  ages  ago,  whose  works  on 
every  hand  attest  their  prodigious  energy,  industry,  and 
*klU. 

As  painters  difler  in  the  chosen  subjects  of  their  art — one 
being  enamored  of  the  human  face  or  form,  another  of 
beauty  in  landscape — so  the  visitors  to  such  a  land  as 
Egypt  differ  in  the  choice  of  objects  upon  which  to  bestow 
their  attention.  Human  kind  in  the  present,  the  evidences 
of  what  was  done  by  human  kind  in  the  remote  past,  the 
phenomena  of  nature,  the  monuments  of  art — all  these  and 
other  subjects  of  interest  are  there,  and  each  vLsitor  is 
affected  by  one  or  another  of  them  according  to  his  mood. 


8 


ALEXANDRIA. 


I  have  seen  one  in  love  with  nature  absorbed  in  the  peculi- 
arities of  a  desert  flower,  or  fof^etful  of  all  else  in  contem- 
Illation  of  a  nest  of  ants  in  the  very  shadow  of  the  Pyia- 
Finids.  In  a  land  so  rich  in  interest  of  every  Idnd,  no  one 
mind  can  hope  to  grasp  all  or  do  justice  to  all.  Each  must 
see  as  it  is  given  him  to  see,  and  each  must  submit  to  his 
limitations  In  recording  the  observations  made  during  a 
long  and  intimate  acquaintance  with  Oriental  and  especially 
with  Egj-ptian  life,  therefore,  I  ask  the  render's  indulgence 
not  only  for  the  infelicities  of  a  hand  better  use<l  to  the 
sword  than  the  pen,  but  also  for  any  apparent  slighting  of 
imatters  in  which  the  individual  reader  may  feci  special 
'interest.  Seeing  with  but  one  pair  of  eyes  and  led  by  but 
one  set  of  sympathies,  the  writer  can  scarcely  hope  that  his 
obser\'ations  have  always  taken  precisely  the  direction 
which  each  reader  could  wish. 

Most  noteworthy  are  the  changes  wrought  in  Egypt 
during  the  last  ten  years,  and  they  are  ail  in  favor  of  the 
traveller  and  the  student.  Ismail  turned  modem  science 
to  account  in  working  improvements  almost  as  wonderful 
as  those  wrought  in  f.^ble  by  Eastern  magic.  He  beauti- 
fied the  villages  and  made  the  cities  wonders  of  splendor 
and  magnificence.  He  brought  the  ruins  that  lie  scattered 
for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  Nile  within  .easy  accessi- 
bility by  dahabeeyah  and  steamer,  making  the  journey 
even  to  the  remotest  of  them  easy  and  speedy.  He  stayed 
the  hand  of  prying  chippcrs  and  mutilators  and  relic- 
hunters,  and  instituted  scientific  excavation  and  investiga- 
tion in  the  stead  of  mere  idle  curiosity.  In  his  devotion  to- 
this  purpose  and  his  zeal  for  knowledge,  the  late  Khedive 
appointed  as  sole  conservator  of  the  ruins  of  Egypt,  Mari- 
ettc  Bey.  a  man  of  world-wide  reputation  as  a  scientific  and 
single-minded  archaeologist.  Under  his  care  the  Museum 
at  Boulac,  near  Cairo,  has  been  filled  with  objects  of  the 
rarest  interest,  selected  and  arranged  with  such  care  and 
skill  that  the  intelligent  student  may  there  read  the  records 


ALEXANDRIA. 


P 
^ 
^ 

I 


^ 


of  the  human  race,  on  stone  and  papyrus,  almost  from  the 
earliest  dawn  of  history.  But  of  the  museum  and  of 
Mariettc  Bey's  work  we  shall  have  occason  to  write  more 
fully  hereafter. 

Among  the  changes  wrought  by  Ismail's  policy,  not  the 
least  interesting  is  the  improvement  in  the  character  nf  the 
fellah.  In  his  former  estate  he  submitted  to  kicks  and 
cuffs  without  a  whimper,  accepting  ill-treatment  as  his  due. 
Long  age^  of  oppression  had  effectually  crushed  the  man- 
hood out  of  him.  The  change  in  this  respect  ha*  been 
great.  The  Arabs  have  begun  to  feel  their  manhood  and 
to  assert  themselves  in  various  ways — mostly  noisy,  as  the 
traveller  is  reminded  every  day.  They  do  not  talk,  they 
scream.  Seeing  a  pair  of  them  in  apparent  altercation, 
s\viii^ing  their  arms,  seeming  to  threatc-n  each  other  with 
immediate  destruction,  yelling,  screaming,  with  distorted 
faces  and  snapping  eyes,  the  bystander  fancies  their  fury  to 
be  such  that  nothing  but  blood  can  appease  their  wrath. 
Upon  inquiry  he  finds  that  all  this  is  a  harmless  harangue 
preliminary  to  a  bargain.  Among  themselves  all  these 
Eastern  people  arc  given  to  loud  talking.     Of  late  they 

;vc  gone  so  far  as  to  assert  their  rights  by  boxing-matches 
Ith  Europeans,  when  refused  the  piastre  agreed  upon, 
where  before  they  were  ready  to  take  a  kicking  as  a  settle- 
ment in  full  of  all  claims. 

Other  changes  of  a  less  pleasing  character  have  been 
made  in  Egypt,  however,  by  one  of  which  our  own  country 
has  profited  in  a  questionable  way.  In  former  times  the 
ao-called  Cleopatra's  Needle  was  the  first  objert  of  interest 
to  the  traveller  landing  at  Alexandria ;  but  now  the  land 
that  knew  it  for  three  thousand  years  will  know  the  great 
obelisk  no  more.  It  seems  a  sad  desecration  to  have 
removed  from  the  tand  where  it  had  significance  to  a  park 
where  it  has  none,  a  shaft  written  of  by  Herodotus,  which 
had  looked  down  upon  the  achievements  of  Alexander, 
Caesar,  and  the  great  modern  captain,  Napoleon.     One  of 


10 


ALEXANDRIA. 


England's  poets  bitterly  rebuked  his  countiymcn  for  plun* 
dcring  Greece  of  her  marbles  in  gratification  of  a  selfish 
vanit>- ;  and  now  even  Anierici  "violates  a  saddened 
shrine,"  and  bears  to  her  shores  one  of  Egypt's  altan. 

Pompcy's  Pillar,  the  only  monument  now  left  standing 
to  link  Alexandria  with  the  past,  was  not  named  after  the 
great  warrior,  but  after  a  Prefect  of  Alexandria,  who 
erected  it  by  order  of  the  people  in  honor  of  Dioclcti.in's 
clemency.  The  destruction  of  Alexaiidria  had  been  or- 
dered, but  the  Emperor's  horse  stumbled -on  a  lull,  and, 
anxious  to  save  the  city,  he  seized  upon  this  omen  as 
excuse.  This  magnificent  monument  of  red  granite,  oni 
hundred  feet  high,  was  erected  on  this  sole  commanding 
eminence  in  or  near  the  city. 

Alexander,  who  conquered  all  the  country  east  of  the. 
Mediterranean  Sea,  turned  to  account  the  advantages 
the  bay,  where  stood  the  ancient  fishing-village  of  Kacotis. 
He  conceived  the  idea  of  a  new  and  splendid  city  at  the, 
mouths  of  the  mud-chok«i  Nile,  to  be  the  great  mart  b< 
tween  the  Greek  mainland  and  archipel.igo  and  the  ancient 
kingdom  of  the  Pharaohs.  This  was  to  be  the  crowning  of 
his  plan  of  a  great  Greek  empire.  The  legend  runs  that  in 
323  B.C.  the  oracle  of  Ammon-Ra  informed  the  Macedonian 
madman  that  he  was  the  son  of  the  gods,  and  that  in  the 
Tuture,  as  in  the  pxtt,  he  would  be  invincible.  Enchanted, 
he  returned  from  his  visit  to  the  shrine  determined  to-buiU 
a  great  city  on  this  site  and  to  give  it  his  own  name.  It' 
will  be  recollected  that  there  is  another  legend  of  a  vener- 
able old  man  appearing  to  the  Macedonian  in  a  dream  and 
repeating  the  lines  of  Homer  (Od,  w.  54;) : 

"  One  of  the  UUnds  lie*  in  the  r«r-fo&minK  wavn  ol  the  mo. 
Opposite  Egfpi't  rivet,  «od  lu  oamc  ii  Pharos." 

There  is  but  little  left  of  the  past  grandeur  of  the  might 
city,  only  here  and  there  the  fragment  of  a  column  deeply 
imbedded  in  the  earth  ;  while  the  modern  city,  with  ita^ 


ALEXANDRIA. 


II 


Stately  structures  and  teeming  population,  covers  the 
ground  where  stood  the  temples,  palaces,  and  museums  of 
the  Ptolemies  and  Caviars.  Not  being  a  city  of  the  earlier 
Pharaohs,  Alexandria  has  scarcely  anything  within  its 
borders  to  remind  you  of  the  ancient  people.  A  fen-  stones 
among  its  debris  tell  you  in  hieroglyphics  that  they  came 
from  the  Delta  of  the  Nile  to  aid  in  the  construction  of  the 
museums  and  scats  of  learning  of  a  later  day.  The  imagi- 
nation readily  carries  one  back  to  the  days  of  the  city's 
splendor  described  by  the  earlier  writers,  and  sees  the  bold 
Origcn  mingling  with  the  Egyptian  priests  and  distributing 
palms  near  the  gates  of  the  temple  of  Scrapis  to'Pagan  and 
Christian  while  exclaiming,  "Receive  them  not  in  the 
name  of  the  gods,  but  of  the  one  and  only  true  God";  the 
myrmidons  of  Julian  dragging  the  Christians  to  the  altar 
and  immolating  them  for  refusing  to  worship  the  god 
Scrapis ;  and  then  again  the  Christians  under  Thcodo- 
sius  breaking  the  mosaic  doors,  overturning  and  destroying 
beautiful  objects  of  art  because  they  were  called  idols. 
The  temple,  with  its  hundred  steps,  was  a  noble  specimen 
of  Greek  art.  It  was  destroyed  in  the  year  589  A.D.  by 
Thcophilus,  Patriarch  of  Alexandria,  in-a  freniy  of  religious 
fanaticism.  The  god  to  whom  the  temple  was  dedicated 
was  an  invention  of  the  Greek  Ptolemies.  In  this  god  the 
wrangling  Greek  and  Egj'ptian  priests  had  a  divinity  at 
whose  shrine  they  could  forget  their  quarrels  in  a  common 
worship,  Scrapis  was  a  compound  of  the  Pluto  of  the 
Greeks  and  the  Osiris  of  the  Egy-ptians,  and  iis  both  of 
those  personages  were  inhabitants  of  the  infernal  regions, 
the  religious  real  of  the  wranglers  was  satislicd. 

A  picturesque  structure  built  by  Mehemet  Ali.  though 
devoid  of  much  architectural  beauty,  stands  on  a  small 
island  once  surrounded  by  the  sea  but  now  a  part  of  the 
mainland.  It  is  called  the  Ras  el  Tin  (Head  of  the  Fig), 
because  of  its  resemblance  to  that  fruit.  Part  of  it  was 
destroyed  by  English  cannon  shot  in  the  recent  war.     It  b 


IS 


ALBXAHDRIA, 


the  first  object  observed  on  entering  the  harbor,  and  stands 
upon  the  island  of  Pharos,  the  same  upon  which  stood  the 
ancient  lighthouse  of  that  name. 

There  is  another  palace  west  of  the  city  known  as  Gabara, 
beautifully  situated  on  a  neck  of  Land  between  the  sea  and 
Lake  Mareotts,  which  commands  a  fine  vieu-.  It  is  pictur> 
esque  because  of  its  masuve  rotunds,  domes,  and  marblej 
mosaic  terraces.  Erected  for  the  summer  palace  of  Said 
Pacha,  the  (onncr  Viceroy,  its  large  rooms  and  galleries 
were  expensively  decorated,  and  its  fa9ade  was  of  wonderful 
beauty.  The  surroundings  were  embellished  with  foun- 
tains  and  gardens,  and  planted  with  rare  flowers,  exotics, 
and  fruit  trees.  This  prodigal  man  covered  several  acres  of 
ground  in  front  of  this  palace  with  an  iron  pavement,  in 
order  that  he  might  escape  the  dust  on  his  elevated  terrace 
while  watching  the  drill  of  his  favorite  Nubians,  It  was 
here,  when  in  command  of  Alexandria,  that  for  a  long  time 
I  had  my  headquarters. 

This  palace  to  the  south-west  of  Alexandria  was  the 
ancient  site  of  the  Necropolis  of  the  Ptolemies.  They,  like 
the  ancient  Egyptians,  embalmed  their  dead.  Time  and 
modern  improvements  have  swept  away  from  this  interest- 
ing locality  the  last  vestige  of  the  past,  and  the  Arab  has 
not  the  slightest  idea  of  its  former  use.  I  recollect  ono 
night  conversing  on  the  subject  with  an  intelligent  Arab, 
who  had  never  before  heard  th.it  this  was  the  resting-place 
of  countless  dead.  Just  then  .in  owl  on  one  of  the  huge 
acacias  near  by  gave  an  ominous  screech,  and  my  compan- 
ion trembled  with  fear  while  his  dilated  eyes  expressed  great 
agony  of  spirit.  He  insisted  that  the  owl  was  a  genius 
embodying  the  spirit  of  Said,  the  Viceroy  who  had  lived 
here.  At  the  next  screech  my  companion  fled,  upsetting 
chairs  and  tables  and  smashing  my  astral  lamp.  This 
accelerated  his  speed,  convincing  him  that  the  evil  spirit 
was  pursuing  him.  I  tried  to  overtake  him,  but  he  was . 
soon  lost  to  sight,  and  the  only  sound  disturbing  the  still- 


ALBXAfTDSlA. 


IS 


I 


ncss  of  the  night  was  the  clattering  of  his  heels  over  the 
iron  pavement  which  the  folly  of  the  earthly  Viceroy  had 
put  there  for  his  comfort.  The  /Vrabs  believe  that  they  arc 
surrounded  by  good  and  bad  genii,  and  darkness  is  a  terror 
to  them.  They  never  sleep  alone,  if  they  can  help  it,  and 
always  bum  a  light  at  night.  They  even  bum  torches  in 
their  stables  to  protect  the  animals.  An  Arab  never  enters 
9.  solitary  or  darit  place  without  supplicating  the  presiding 
genius  to  guard  him  against  the  spirits  under  his  orders. 
The  ancient  Egyptians,  Marictte  Bey  writes,  always  had 
their  city  of  the  dead  close  by  the  side  of  their  city  of  the 
living,  and  it  was  imiformly  situated  to  the  west.  In 
speaking  of  the  ruins  of  ancient  Egypt  which  1  have  visited. 
I  shall  enlarge  more  fully  upon  this  interesting  theme,  as 
well  as  upon  their  religion,  so  intimately  connected  with 
it.  This  custom  rested  on  a  very  sacred  belief,  as  they 
placed  in  the  region  where  the  sun  sets  the  dwelling-place 
of  their  souls  after  death,  expressing  both  by  the  word 
Ametsti. 

Driving  out  through  the  Rosctta  Gate,  on  the  road  which 
leads  to  the  famous  old  city  of  Canopus,  you  come  to  com> 
paratively  high  hills,  formed  to  a  great  extent  by  the  debris 
of  the  ancient  city.  On  one  of  these  heights,  about  three 
miles  out,  there  are  two  new  palaces,  beautifully  situated 
immediately  on  the  sea  and  commanding  a  picturesque  view 
of  the  surrounding  country. 

These  palaces,  adorned  with  lavish  magniRcence,  sur- 
rounded by  luxuriant  gardens,  and  fanned  by  refreshing 
breezes  from  the  sea,  are  the  most  desirable  summer  resi- 
dences in  Egypt.  The  first  season,  about  1875.  that  the 
Khedive  occupied  them  with  his  numerous  harem,  a  great 
afnictton  overwhelmed  him  and  his  family  In  the  death  of 
his  daughter.  Zaneeb,  a  most  interesting  and  beautiful 
young  lady  who  was  just  married.  Cairo  being  the  mauso- 
leum for  Egyptian  royalty,  every  preparation  was  made  to 
vacate  these  palaces  at  once.     The  corpse  was  carried  in 


M 


ALEXANifRIA. 


great  state  to  a  train  to  be  conveyed  to  the  tomb  at  Cairo. 
It  ^^^s  preceded  by  numbers  of  men  called  the  "  Vcmenee- 
yah,"  who  recited  the  profciuion  of  faith  to  a  melancholy 
strain,  "  There  is  no  deity  but  God  ;  Mahomet  is  God'» 
apostle;  God  blessand  save  him,"  They  \vcre  followed  by 
the  present  Khedive,  then  a  prince,  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  Pachas  and  Beys  and  other  distinguished  person- 
ages ;  then  came  several  boys  carrying  the  Mushaf  (Koran) 
on  a  support  covered  with  an  embroidered  handkerchief, 
and  chanting  verses  from  the  poem  called  "  Hashiceyah." 
descriptive  of  events  of  the  last  day  and  judgment.  These 
marched  In  front  of  the  bier,  which  was  a  long  box  with  a 
roof,  resembling  in  make  and  size  the  mummy-case  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians.  Ordinarily  the  Egyptians  bury  simplj 
in  winding-sheets.  The  bier  on  this  occasion  was  cover 
with  rich  Cashmere  shawls.  An  upright  piece  at  the  head 
wa.t  also  covered  by  a  .ihawl  and  surmounted  by  a  lace 
head-dress  ornamented  with  glittering  gems.  The  bier  was 
borne  upon  the  mourners*  shoulders,  a  goodly  number  of 
veiled  women  following,  but  not  with  the  lamentations  cua* 
tomary  at  funerals.  There  were,  however,  terrible  shrieks 
coming  from  the  carriages  of  the  ladies  of  the  harem,  the 
friends  and  relatives  of  the  dead  princess,  who  were  passing 
at  the  time,  and  their  cry  of  "Zanccb  1"  the  name  of  the 
young  lady,  was  heard  in  the  most  piteous  sobs.  Numbers 
of  camels,  loaded  with  bread,  dates,  and  other  food  for  the 
poor,  walked  in  front  and  on  the  sides  of  the  cort^c. 
Their  burdens  were  distributed  to  the  crowds  of  Arabs 
assembled  to  witness  the  procession.  Arriving  at  the  sta 
tion,  all  male  spectators  were  inclosed  in  the  salon,  so  thalil 
the  Queen  and  the  ladies  accompanying  her  might  pass  into 
the  cars  unobserved.  Subsequently,  while  I  was  standing 
on  the  platform  near  Tcwfik  in  the  midst  of  a  great  crowd, 
one  of  those  occurrences  happened  which  sometimes  mar  the 
solemnity  of  such  an  occasion.  Alone  in  front  of  the  vast 
and  silent  assembly  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  track  stood 


ALSXAKSRIA. 


'5 


two  enormous  Arab  fcUahs  in  the  tarboosh  and  blue  drcs.1, 
sobbing  and  bellowing  as  though  their  hearts  were  break- 
ing, and  attracting  the  attention  of  everybody.  Suddenly 
•A  policeman,  coming  up  in  the  rear,  gave  each  of  them  a 
kick,  and  the  dumb-struck  howlers  at  once  took  to  their 
heels.  The  scene  was  exquisitely  ridiculous,  and  the  whole 
crowd  broke  into  a  loud  laugh  ;  and  even  one  of  the 
princes,  a  half  brother,  who,  like  the  two  Arabs,  seemed 
more  distressed  than  the  others,  joined  heartily  in  it  until  his 
governor,  standing  behind  him,  gave  him  a  prod  with  his 
stick  which  renewed  the  flow  of  his  tears.  At  Cairo  there 
was  great  pomp  and  ceremony  in  the  final  disposition  of 
the  body.  According  to  the  custom,  it  was  so  placed  that 
the  face  .thould  look  toward  Mecca.  On  the  first  night  it 
is  believed  by  the  Moslem  that  the  soul  remains  in  the 
body  and  is  visited  by  two  angels,  who  examine  and  some- 
times torture  it.  A  Fakir,  one  of  the  Mahometan  saints, 
remains  with  the  dead  to  instruct  it  what  answers  to  make, 
which  he  takes  from  the  Koran.  He  is  particular  in  giving 
the  Islam  or  profession  of  faith.  This  night  is  called  the 
Lcyht-Wahdch  (the  night  of  solitude).  The  soul  after 
this  takes  its  flight  to  the  place  of  good  souls  until  the 
last  day,  or  to  the  abode  of  the  wicked  to  await  its  final 
doom.  The  religion  of  the  Faithful  gives  very  minute 
accounts  of  the  soul's  place  of  abode  between  death  and 
judgment, 

I  have  said  this  much  upon  this  subject  because  in  no 
relation  of  life  can  we  learn  the  hopes  and  fears  of  a  people 
so  well  as  in  their  manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead.  With 
how  much  interest  do  we  read  of  Abraham  bowing  to  the 
great  law  in  purchasing  a  sepulchre  in  the  land  where  his 
postcrit>'  were  to  live,  and  of  Jacob  and  Joseph  showing 
their  faith  in  accepting  the  covenant.  "  There,"  said  lur.icl, 
"they  buried  Abraham  and  Sarah  his  wife,  and  there  I 
buried  Leah  .  .  .  bury  me  with  my  fathers  in  the  cave  that 
is  in  the  field  of  Ephron  the  Hittite."     The  ancient  Egyp- 


i6 


AtEXAlfDR/A. 


tlans  buried  deep  into  the  rock,  and  the  Greeks  and  Romans 
cremated  their  dead,  and  oncased  the  uros  holding  the 
sacred  ashes  in  magnificent  mausoleums.  Mahomet,  be- 
lieving in  the  importance  of  funeral  rites,  left  an  elaborate 
law  to  guide  the  Faithful ;  though,  strange  to  say,  in  this  as 
in  much  that  he  said  to  them,  thc>'  violate  his  law  in  the 
most  palpable  and  extraordinary  manner.  It  is  a  curious  fact 
that  the  site  on  which  the  p.il.tce  just  mentioned  was  built 
was  for  two  centuries  a  Roman  cemetery,  though,  luckily  for 
the  peace  of  its  Mahometan  inmates,  the  fact  was  not 
known.  As  in  the  case  of  the  palace  of  Gabara,  all  trace 
of  this  former  use  had  been  swept  away  and  forgotten. 
In  digging  the  hills  for  the  railroad  near  by  a  populous 
abode  of  the  Roman  dead,  numerous  cinerary  urns  were 
found.  Like  the  mummies  of  a  still  earlier  people,  these 
urns  with  their  contents  could  be  bought  at  that  time  In 
great  numbers  for  a  few  francs  each.  The  Khedive  could 
not  for  some  time  induce  his  ladies,  who  were  full  of  every 
kind  of  supftrstition,  to  inhabit  the  deserted  summer  abode 
They  finally  consented,  provided  that  for  more  than  a  year 
he  would  give  in  these  palace  halts  grand  banquets,  balls, 
and  entertainments  to  the  Europeans,  so  that  they  might, 
by  eating,  dancing,  and  making  a  noise  generally,  dance 
Affreet  (the  devil)  out  of  them.  On  that  condition  only 
would  they  return.  It  is  said  that  they  had  commenced 
dancing  Old  Nick  out,  but  before  effecting  this  most  desir- 
able object  the  English  and  French  danced  the  Khedive 
out  of  Egypt,  and  the  lovers  of  fun  and  good  living  not  only 
lost  their  entertainments,  but  Old  Nick  still  remained  in 
undisputed  possession. 

In  attempting  a  survey  of  the  splendid  ancient  city  the 
mind  is  saddened,  as  not  even  vestiges  enough  remain  to 
mark  its  limits.  But  for  natural  landmarks  the  boundaries 
could  not  be  traced  at  all.  Leaving  Alexandria,  the  raiU 
road  crones  a  broad  sheet  of  shallow  salt  water  called  L.ake 
Mareotis.     In  vain  you  search  for  traces  of  those  old  con> 


ALf.XANDRtA. 


17 


vents,  filled  with  t)iou«Ands  of  Christian  devotees,  which 
bordered  the  beautiful  basin  once  (iltcd  with  fresh  water. 
Nor  is  there  a  vestige  of  the  splendid  gardens  where,  amid 
clustering  vines,  Cleopatra  and  Antony  drank  golden  wine 
to  celebrate  their  union.  All  is  swept  .iway,  and  a  salt  lake 
with  its  arid  border  covers  the  spot.  To  add  the  finishing 
touch  to  the  picture  of  sad  havoc  which  Mahometan  misrule 
had  produced  was  reserved  for  civilized  Europe.  Just  below 
Aboukir  there  was  a  massive  dike,  erected  by  the  ancients 
to  separate  the  sea  from  the  iihorc,  and  in  the  course  of 
centuries  a  large  tract  of  land  was  reclaimed.  The  splendid 
Lenginecring  skill  of  the  English  opened  this  obstruction, 
'created  the  present  vast  expanse  of  wa:ste.  and  covered  it 
with  destructive  salt  water,  in  the  merciful  attempt  to 
drown  the  French  out  of  Egypt,  when  these  most  Christian 
nations  were  so  intent  upon  annihilating  each  other.  No 
less  than  sixty  villages  were  submerged  by  the  ocean  and 
their  teeming  population  driven  from  their  homes  to  starve. 
The  waters  still  cover  the  once  fertile  Relds.  How  much 
more  magnanimous  it  would  have  been  if  England  in  our 
own  time,  instead  of  driving  Ismail  from  his  home  and  bat- 
'  tling  against  Arabi  I'acha.  who  fought  for  the  liberties  of  his 
race,  had  paid  into  the  Egyptian  treasury  the  value  of  the 
kgreat  property  and  territory  thus  destroyed.  It  might  then 
have  prevented  the  kourbash  from  wringing  from  the  im- 
poverished fellah  the  means  needed  to  pay  the  indebtedness 
of  Egypt,  The  hopeless  misery  entailed  by  British  policy 
can  never  be  estimated.  The  principal  inhabitants  of  this 
inhospitable  region  are  now  jackals,  which  live  here  in  great 
numbers.  They  arc  the  scavengers  of  the  suburbs  of  the  city, 
and  are  named  by  the  Arabs,  for  some  unknown  reason,  "the 
father  of  Solomon."  T^ere  is  another  little  animal,  more 
^gentle  and  more  numerous,  often  seen  jumping  about  its 
'  borders,  called  the  jerboa,  which  burrows  in  the  ground.  It 
is  of  reddish  color,  with  short  fore  and  very  long  hind  legs, 
about  the  size  of  a  large  rat.  and  makes  its  appearance  at 


|8  ALEXAXDRIA. 

dark,  hopping  about  like  a  bird.  Such  are  the  living  creat- 
ures which  now  monopoh'ze  a  region  where,  less  than  a  cen- 
tury ago,  the  eye  was  delighted  with  great  numbers  of 
thriving  villages  and  the  rich  green  oT  rice  and  wheat  fields. 
Here,  as  elsewhere  in  the  East,  Christian  England  has  left 
the  eternal  blight  of  her  greed. 


CHAPTER    U. 

ROSETTA. 


Ro)«itii.  diodera  aod  ancient— Intertatlnft  aModaiionii  of  this  locality— Ruin* 
aiid  noiqiici  —  Wondcilul  ocilvUr  ot  bird  life  iluring  the  wlolcr  montta 
-Expciirncca  at  Roscltn  and  othei  (ortilted  (illei  on  Lbe  cout— An 
Anb  dinner,  its  etiquette  and  ita  diahca. 

While  in  command  of  the  coast  it  became  necessary  for 
mc  to  make  frequent  visits  to  Rosctta.  thirty  miles  cast  of 
Alexandria,  ne:ir  tlie  mouth  of  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Nile  delta.  Before  the  constmction  of  the  railroad,  the 
beautiful  bay  of  Aboukir  was  a  delightful  half-way  station 
at  which  to  take  a  day's  rest.  I  often  visited  the  bay  and 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city  of  Canopus,  picturesquely  situ> 
atcd  on  the  tongue  of  land  between  the  sea  and  the  bay. 
Here  are  a  nest  of  fortifications  and  a  fine  prospect,  both 
seaward  and  landward.  Excavations  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
down  have  disclosed  the  debris  of  the  city,  and  there  have 
been  tincarthcd  many  statues  and  broken  fragments,  as  well 
as  the  ruins  of  a  marble  aqueduct  built  to  convey  fresh 
water  from  the  old  Canopus  branch  of  the  Nile,  now  lost  in 
what  is  known  as  Lake  Elko,  all  trace  of  its  connection 
with  the  ruin  being  at  present  obliterated.  Here  a  temple 
of  Isis  attracted  great  throngs  of  the  religious  to  the  shrine 
of  the  goddess,  and  thousands  of  joyous  devotees  made  the 
river  resound  with  song  and  dance  on  their  way  to  this 
notorious  centre  of  sin  and  amusement.  Under  Greek  rule 
Canopus  became  a  great  watering-place,  to  use  a  phrase  of 
to-day,  no  less  celebrated  than  of  old  for  its  orgies  held  in 
honor   of  the  voluptuous  goddess  who  had  been  adopted 


90 


xossrrA. 


Into  the  Greek  Pantheon.  It  was  in  this  beautiful  bay  that 
Nelson  achieved  hU  naval  triumph  in  1798  (battle  of  the 
Nile)  in  the  destruction  o(  the  French  fleet  under  Brueix. 
The  French  subsequently  revenged  themselves  by  plung- 
ing into  this  very  bay  10.000  Turks  as  a  propitiation  to  the 
matifs  of  their  vanquished  countrymen.  One  of  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  place  lo  me  was  the  hospitable  old  Turk  whose 
chief  occupation  was  prayer,  and  whose  sole  diversion  was 
the  inspection  of  his  numerous  forts.  He  was  remarkable 
for  his  fondness  for  cats,  of  which  he  had  a  regiment.  Be- 
sides, they  and  the  dogs  arc  really  institutions  of  Egypt. 
Throughout  his  life  the  old  Bey  showed  in  this  way  his 
reverence  for  the  Prophet,  who,  it  is  related,  had  a  similar 
weakness.  M-ihomct  upon  one  occasion  carried  his  tender- 
ness so  far  that  he  cut  off  a  piece  of  his  robe  upon  which 
his  pet  cat  was  lying,  rather  than  disturb  the  animal's 
dream& 

The  favorite  perch  of  this  man's  cats  was  his  shoulder, 
and  the  caterwauling  .afforded  no  little  merriment,  as  one, 
cat  descended  in  order  that  others  might  occupy  this  poa 
of  honor  in  their  turn.  The  ancient  Egyptians,  like  my^ 
friend  the  Bey.  venerated  the  cat,  and  the  killing  of  one  of 
these  animals  was  followed  by  instant  death.  Many  inum> 
mies  of  cats  arc  now  found  entombed,  and  the  story  is  tc 
that  the  killing  of  one  led  10  the  expulsion  of  a  famoi 
Greek  from  Eg>'pt,  who  in  revenge  brought  back  Cambyscs, 
the  Persian  conqueror,  to  defile  her  temples.  While  thej 
Mahometan  loves  the  cat,  he  evinces  a  di^ike  for  the  do( 
an  animal  which,  among  all  nations  and  in  all  ages,  ha 
been  the  ever-faithful  companion  of  man.  Homer  smj 
of  Ulysses  that,  forgotten  by  his  wife  and  family,  he 
remembered  by  his  dog.  Nature  seems  to  have  intended 
him  as  the  companion  of  man,  and  he  delights  in  adding 
his  master's  pleasure  and  protection.  I  have  seen  even  the^ 
savage  share  with  him  his  last  morsel  of  game.  But  Ma- 
homet disliked  the  canine  race,  and  impre3.<ied  his  hatred 


KOSBTTA. 


upon  his  followers.  They  alone  hold  the  dog  in  detestation 
as  an  unclean  animal,  excluding  him  from  their  houses  and 
shunning  him  as  they  would  a  viper,  for  they  hold  that  the 
touching  of  the  cieature  is  contamination  which  destroys 
the  efficacy  of  prayer  unless  followed  by  numerous  ablu> 
tions.  The  Arabs  do  not  strike  these  animals,  but  give 
them  food  and  shelter  and  use  them  as  watchdogs  and 
scavengers.  They  arc  seen  asleep  in  crowded  streets,  the 
Arabs  carefully  passing  them  by.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that 
hydrophobia  is  unknown  in  Egypt.  Though  he  is  ordina- 
rily a  scurvy-looking  cur,  the  Egyptian  dog  becomes  a  hand- 
some animal  under  good  treatment  and  makes  a  good  watch- 
dog. The  Bedouin,  on  the  contrary,  in  his  isolated  life, 
knows  the  value  of  dogs,  and  though  a  Mahometan,  treats 
them  with  much  greater  kindness.  It  is  dangerous  to  injure 
or  kill  one  belonging  to  him. 

The  Mahometans'  treatment  of  the  dog  affords  an  ex- 
cellent idea  of  their  habits.  Their  abhorrence  grows  out  of 
the  fact  that  the  animal  sometimes  eats  off.il.  Hut  the  cat 
is  even  worse  than  he,  when  not  famished  with  hunger,  and 
its  vicious  instincts  have  to  be  carefully  guarded  against. 
The  ancient  Egyptians  understood  the  value  of  both  cats 
and  dogs,  for  Egypt  was  overrun  then,  as  now,  with  rats 
and  mice  in  houses  and  in  the  fields.  Prudence  required 
that  the  natural  enemies  of  these  vermin  should  be  encour- 
aged, so  the  priests  protected  them  by  law  and  religion.  It 
was  a  piece  of  political  wisdom  thus  to  command  the 
respect  of  the  people  by  protecting  these  animals,  so  indis* 
pensablc  in  their  purely  agricultural  country. 

Rosetta,  called  by  the  Arabs  Raschid.  is  thought  to  be 
the  ancient  city  of  Melitus,  and  is  situated  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Rosetta  branch  of  the  Nile.  There  was  always  a 
large  garrison  here,  where  I  have  often  inspected  as  many 
as  lo.oex)  men.  A  few  miles  distant  is  the  old  fort  of  St. 
Julian,  which  viras  occupied  by  the  French  when  they  wen? 
in  Egypt.     It  was  at  this  place  that  the  famous  Rosettii 


tl 


ROSETTA. 


stone — the  first  key  to  the  hieroglyphic  writings  of  ancient 
Egypt — was  found. 

The  city  was  once  populous,  but  (or  many  years  its  ven- 
erable-looking structures,  desolate  and  uninhabited,  have 
reminded  the  traveller  of  a  city  of  the  dead.  The  mouth 
of  the  river  being  choked  by  the  Nile  mud,  Mehemct  Ali 
conceived  the  idea  of  cutting  the  grand  Mamondieh  Canal 
so  as  to  connect  the  Nile  above  here  with  the  magniRcent 
Bay  of  Alexandria.  This  isolated  Rosettn  and  destroyed 
its  importance,  but  now  that  a  railroad  connects  it  with 
the  bay,  it  is  being  transformed  once  more  into  a  busy 
mart;  its  once  beautiful  gardens  begin  again  to  smile  with 
verdure,  and  the  feathered  songsters  that  had  abandoned 
the  sterile  wastes  have  returned  to  their  rosy  bowers. 
The  remains  of  parterres  and  gardens  begin  again  to  look 
beautiful  with  their  perfumed  hedges  inclosing  the  pome- 
granate, citron,  orange,  and  the  waving  dale-tree.  Here  in 
the  month  of  October  no  blighting  frost  stops  the  progress 
of  nature,  and  a  shower  now  and  then,  like  a  spring  day  in 
a  cold  climate,  tempers  the  atmosphere,  while  the  beams  of 
Ihc  returning  sun  bring  a  more  genial  warmth.  There  is 
never  any  check  to  vegetation,  as  is  the  case  for  so  many 
months  in  other  countries,  where  nature  clothes  herself  in 
the  mantle  of  decayed  vegetation.  At  Rosetta,  as  every- 
where on  the  coast,  the  winds  and  rains  alone  temper  the 
climate.  Artificial  heat  is  rarely  ncccssar}',  and  the  song- 
birds of  [LUfope  prefer  this  for  their  winter  residence  to  the 
drier  climate  of  Cairo.  They  like  the  neighborhood  of 
Rosetta,  where  they  can  linger  among  perfumed  flowers  and 
broad  fields  extending  for  many  miles  on  both  sides  of  the 
river.  The  Arab's  fondness  for  birds  Ls  remarkable.  He 
will  sit  for  hours  in  these  gardens  watching  and  listening  to 
them  with  patient  delight.  Mis  favorite  among  all  the 
birds  that  visit  him  is  the  dove,  and  he  will  often  follow 
that  bird  into  the  thick  shades  of  the  shrubbery  that  he 
may  the  better  hear  the  music  of  its  cooing. 


jtossrrA. 


n 


The  nightingale  on  his  winter  visit  to  Egypt  seems 
trangcly  gloomy  and  unsocial.  To  the  wonder  of  the 
'"Arabs,  he  shuns  all  communion  with  his  fellows,  mopes 
in  solitude,  and  remains  as  silent  as  the  desert  which  sur- 
rounds his  seclusion.  There  he  sits  moping  from  October 
till  March,  but  the  happy  return  of  spring  inspires  him  with 
new  life,  and  he  once  more  seeks  the  vine-dad  hills  of  his 
native  land,  where  the  forests  soon  echo  with  the  sweet 
strains  of  the  king  of  the  singing  birds.  In  the  month  of 
September  the  great  migration  of  the  quail  commences  from 
Europe  across  the  Mediterranean  to  the  shores  of  Egypt, 
and  then  the  air  is  dark  with  countless  thousands  of  those 
birds.  Many  rest  on  the  isUnds  in  their  passage,  and  num- 
bers seek  a  resting-place  on  any  passing  vessel  ;  some  fall 
into  the  sea,  but  the  myriads  that  darken  the  shores  of 
Eg>-pt  constitute  a  real  wonder.  Tired  with  their  long 
flight,  they  arc  easily  captured,  and  Egyptian  hospitality  is 
violated  by  their  seizure  when  deprived  of  strength  to  fly. 
Over  two  hundred  thousand  of  them  are  sent  alive  to  Paris 
and  London,  at  the  time  of  their  coming  in  September  and 
on  their  return  in  the  spring. 

At  a  fort,  a  short  distance  above  Rosctta,  situated  on 
quite  a  high  isolated  sand-hill,  there  is  a  view  across  a 
perfect  level,  with  no  barrier  but  the  distant  Imrixon,  and 
yet  the  picture  is  a  majestic  one.  To  the  north  the 
thread-like  outline  of  the  shore  which  separates  the  land- 
scape from  the  sea  and  the  foaming  waves  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Nile  mark  the  boundary  of  the  distant  waters. 
To  the  cast  are  unfolded  emerald  fields  and  the  ever- 
beautiful  carpet  of  the  delta.  To  the  west  lies  the  Libyan 
Desert,  which  nature  has  forever  stamped  with  the  indelible 
seal  of  sterility.  Beneath  the  hill  upon  which  the  fort  is 
situated  is  the  mosque  of  Abou  M.indar,  or  "  Father  of 
Light."  Besides  being  a  brilliant  example  for  the  Kaith- 
ful,  the  saint  possesses  many  other  remarkable  virtues.  As 
Rosetta  through  all  her  historj-  has  been   fearful  of  being 


»4 


XOSBTTA. 


overwhelmed  by  the  sands  of  the  desert,  the  presence  of 
this  pious  saint  alone  has  saved  it  from  the  impending 
doom.  Not  only  do  deserts  stand  in  dread  of  this  mighty 
lord  who  holds  in  his  hands  their  shifting  sands,  but  he  is 
the  canonized  enemy  of  all  sterility.  The  beautiful  women 
of  Egypt  who  have  no  saint  nearer  at  hand  come  hither  to 
implore  the  beneficent  offices  of  the  Father  of  Light,  artd 
after  performing  nine  days'  devotion  under  the  protecting 
care  of  the  sheik  who  attends  the  mosque,  it  is  rarely  that 
the  great  boon  so  absolutely  necessary  to  the  fortune  and 
happiness  of  a  Mahometan  woman  is  not  bestowed.  This 
mosque  is  situated  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  no  boat  or  vessel  ever  passes  it  without  propitiating 
its  powerful  titular  saint. 

During  official  visits  along  the  coast  of  Egypt,  the  arrival 
of  the  commanding  general  at  any  of  the  forts  is  the  signai 
for  a  f€te.  The  fatted  lamb  being  killed,  the  low  round 
table  is  soon  set,  covered  by  a  single  waiter.  The  dinner, 
tlg/iada.  being  announced,  basin  and  ewer,  fisht  and  ibrttk, 
arc  brought,  and  every  one  is  expected  to  wash  his  hands 
and  mouth  carefully  with  running  water.  A  silver  tray, 
atrnttyah,  is  placed  upon  the  table,  sufrah,  and  is  large 
enough  to  cover  it.  The  guests  being  seated  (usually  at 
each  sufrah  there  were  five  or  six  persons),  condiments  and 
lemons  with  round  cakes  of  bread  in  shape  something  like  a 
Mexican  tortilla  are  placed  before  each  guest,  together  with 
an  ebony,  tortoise-shell,  or  ivory  spoon.  The  roomy  sleeve 
of  the  Arab  being  rolled  up  above  the  elbow,  and  the  Bi- 
imi-llah  {"  in  the  name  of  God")  repeated  by  each  person 
present,  the  repast  commences.  The  first  dish,  a  lai^c 
tureen  of  very  fine  soup  slightly  flavored  with  lemon-juice, 
is  placed  in  the  midst  of  the  table.  It  is  etiquette  for  the 
highest  Pacha  to  help  himself  first,  and  it  was  usually  my 
office  to  take  that  dip,  which  was  done  with  the  ivory  spoon, 
all  others  following  suit,  and  alt  helping  themselves  out 
of  the  same  tureen.     No  one  was  expected  to  stop  until  the 


jtoserrA. 


n 


Pacha  signalled  "enough,"  and  knowing  that  they  liked 
soup,  1  have  often  felt,  when  ready  to  acknowledge  myself 
surfeited,  that  politeness  made  it  necessary  for  me  to  con- 
tinue the  interesting  occupation.  The  next  dish  was  a 
whole  sheep  barbecued  and  perfectly  well  done.  Again  the 
Pacha  took  the  first  pick — no  knives  or  forks  were  ever 
used.  During  the  picking  process,  if  the  host  particularly 
cherished  his  guest,  he  testified  his  regard  by  picking  out  a 
vcr>'  nice  piece  and  giving  it  to  him.  even  putting  it  into 
his  mouth  if  their  relations  were  very  friendly.  This  com* 
pliment  is  of  course  returned. 

The  "  picking"  never  stopped  until  only  the  skeleton  of 
the  sheep  was  left.  The  result  of  this  effort  was  that  by 
the  time  the  sheep  was  devoured  we  were  tolerably  sated. 
This  eating  with  the  fingers  is  much  more  delicate  than 
those  unacquainted  with  the  process  would  imagine.  The 
Saviour  and  apostles  ate  from  one  dish,  and  it  is  a  general 
Eastern  custom.  Even  in  Greece  and  Rome  the  cultivated 
classes  ate  with  the  fingers.  The  food  is  specially  prepared 
to  aid  this  manner  of  disposing  of  it.  The  other  dishes 
which  followed  in  succession  for  twenty  or  more  courses  at 
an  Arab  banquet,  were  stuffed  turkey  and  chickens,  rich 
stewed  and  boiled  meats  with  onions,  okra  eaten  with 
lemon-juice,  and  other  vegetables.  A  very  fine  dish  called 
the  Ufarak-Moihgi  consisted  of  minced  meat  and  rice 
wrapped  in  vine-leaves  delicately  seasoned  with  salt,  pcp< 
per,  onions,  garlic,  and  parsley,  the  whole  being  boiled 
together.  Cucumber,  khiyar,  and  a  kind  of  gourd  called 
the  kara  kooiak  arc  stuffed  with  spiced  mince-meat  and 
iboilcd,  and  are  very  nice  to  the  taste.  Small  pieces  of 
lamb  roasted  on  skewers,  fish  dressed  with  oil,  and  every 
variety  of  vegetables,  sweets,  and  fruits  between  the  dishes 
were  wont  to  appeal  to  the  most  capricious  tastes  of  the 
guest.  The  kuna/tk  never  fails.  This  is  a  dish  made  of 
flour,  and  it  looks  like  vermicelli,  but  is  finer,  being  fried  in 
butter  and  sweetened  with  sugar  and  honey.     Thin  pastry 


is  rolled  into  leaves  as  fine  as  paper  and  put  one  on  the 
other,  with  curd  scattered  through  the  folds,  and  then  it  i« 
baked.     The   last  dish    is  rice  boiled  with  butter,    rust 
muftlfft.  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.     This  is  fol- 
lowed by  a  sweet   drink,  kkushaf,   water  sweetened    with 
raisins  boiled  in  it  and  then  cooled  ;  ro^-water  is  added, 
which  perfumes  it.     Before  leaving  the  tabic  the  guciits  are 
perfumed  with  rose-water  or  the  smoke  of  some  aromatic 
plant.     I   can  give  but   a  meagre  description  of  an  Arab 
dinner.     This    hospitable    treatment    being    extended    at 
numerous  forts  made  it  a  great  pleasure  to  get  back  to  an 
ordinary  dinner  at  home,  and  a  secret  dread  of  the  feasting 
would  come  over  me  when   the   time   for  visiting  came. 
These  feasts  are  exceptional ;  ordinarily  the  people  arc  the 
most  economical  in  the  world,  and  live  frugally ;  it  is  only 
on  an  occasion  tike  this  or  some  fSte  day  that  they  show 
such  prodigal  hospitality.     After  dinner  you  squat  on  the 
divan,  and  the  traditional  pipes  and  cigars  arc  served,  the 
ceremonial  coffee  is  introduced,  numerous  salaams  or  saluta- 
tions arc  exchanged  between  the  guests  and  the  host,  and 
these  acceptable  accessories  arc  discussed  with  unrestrained 
zest. 

The  conviviality  commences  in  earnest  while  .tipping 
coffee  and  smoking.  Arabs  then  lose  their  gravity  and  con- 
tinually joke  one  another,  being  very  fond  of  badinage.  A 
funny  saying  quite  captivates  them.  The  merchant  and 
the  donkey-boy  arc  easily  moved  with  a  jest,  and  the 
women  in  their  hours  of  case,  with  coffee  and  cigarettes, 
which  with  the  higher  classes  consume  most  of  the  time, 
amuse  themselves  at  each  other's  cost.  They  never  get 
angry,  however  sharp  the  jest  may  be.  At  all  these  enter- 
tainments if  the  host  thinks  it  will  be  pleasing,  the  Ghawai- 
7.VK  or  dancing  girls  are  introduced,  many  of  them  being 
very  handsome.  These  dance  without  their  veils,  to  the 
slow  music  of  the  kamingah  or  kanooH,  a  dance  resembling 
the  fandango  of  Spain.     As  the  women  of  the  harem  are 


KOSETTA. 


*7 


very  fond  of  the  dance,  the  dancing  girls  usually  make  their 
display  where  the  Udies  can  aec  the  performance  through 
their  veiled  windows. 

Kosctta  and  Aboukir  were  the  scene  of  torpedo  experi- 
ments under  the  direction  of  Colonel  William  Ward,  who 
was  stationed  here  for  a  long  time.  It  was  a  great  pleasure 
to  meet  him  here  in  his  field  of  operations.  These  two 
interesting  places  would,  in  my  association,  lose  much  of 
their  interest  without  him.  The  colonel  had  been  an 
officer  in  both  the  United  States  and  Confederate  navies, 
and  was  appreciated  in  them.  No  officer  labored  in  Egypt 
in  more  varied  duties,  for  he  was  a  true  -American  t>-pe  of 
adaptability  where  sense  and  experience  were  required.  If 
the  Khedive  wanted  a  distant  exploration  made  where 
ability  and  scientific  training  were  essential,  or  if  he  desired 
a  perfect  system  of  torpedoes,  or  a  distant  and  unknown 
harbor  and  river  critically  and  faithfully  reported  upon,  this 
gallant  sailor  and  soldier,  for  he  seemed  equally  adapted  to 
both  professions,  was  certain  to  be  selected.  The  Khedive 
knew  that  no  one  could  be  more  trusted  to  furnish  him 
the  information  he  required. 


CHAPTER  III. 

MEHEME1'    ALL 

Tbc  birth  «nd  rlie  ol  Mchemct  All  -tlow  he  beciiine  VIccrajr  of  Egyp* — His 
genluH  >n(l  MCaunca*— ihc  mHwcre  of  the  M«inelukc»^Atieaipts  of 
Ifas  Sullan  lo  gel  rid  ot  hi«  dangcroua  vuul— Mehctact's  wan  aad  hb 
auempu  to  benefit  Enypt— Neil£-IlKnnoufD»nd  hethuiband.  Ahmet  Kaf 
— Ahmei'i  cxploiu  In  Upper  Egypi  and  ihe  Soudan--lliii  rcmorMlew 
cruelty— Anecdote* ol  Ahmet— How  Neil^H*nnouia  killed  har  Imubaod 
for  tha  luppotcd  good  ol  Mchemci  Ali—Extnordinary  cIwFKteT  of 
Ke*U  —Her  IJceniiousncM  sad  exploiia— locldeou  ot  cnieltjr  In  barem 
life. 

The  Eg>-pt  of  to-day  was  founded  by  Mchemct  Ali,  a 
simple  fisherman  of  Greek  descent,  who  was  bom  at  the 
small  town  of  Cavalla,  on  the  coast  of  Roumclia,  about  the 
year  1 768.  As  few  Mahometans  keep  registers  of  births, 
he  never  knew  his  own  age.  Illiterate  in  his  youth,  he 
learned  to  write  through  the  teaching  of  a  slave,  after  he 
was  forty  years  of  age.  He  won  his  first  promotion  by  an 
act  of  treachery.  He  pretended  to  pray  in  a  mosque  by 
the  side  of  a  friend  who  had  done  something  which  for- 
feited his  life  to  the  government.  He  secured  the  confi- 
dence of  this  man,  and  when  he  had  Icanied  his  secret  by 
gross  deception,  handed  him  over  to  the  authorities. 
Mehcmet  was  rewarded  by  a  lieutenancy.  His  ambition 
satisfied,  he  then  used  his  cunning  and  power  to  save  the 
life  of  his  victim,  the  betrayal  of  whom  had  been  his  first 
stepping-stone  in  promotion. 

His  courage  was  daring  even  to  desperation,  and  when  an 
end  was  to  be  gained  there  was  no  sacrifice  or  treachery  which 
he  hesitated  to  use  to  attain  it.    Bom  a  soldier  of  consummate 


UP.U&MET  AU. 


19 


ability,  lie  intuitively  grasped  the  science  of  war.  Coming 
to  Egypt  as  a  lieutenant  and  rising  rapidly  to  the  rank  of 
Bey  (colonel),  he  was  ver>'  soon,  next  to  the  Viceroy,  the 
most  important  man  in  the  government.  The  fact  that  the 
Mamelukes  were  troublesome  during  this  time  and  in  con- 
diet  with  authority  gave  the  young  Greek  an  opportunity 
to  play  a  subtle  part,  llccoming  a  mediator,  he  betrayed 
both  parties  and  advanced  his  own  schemes. 

After  driving  from  power  no  less  than  three  Viceroys  and 
standing  in  open  revolt  against  the  Sultan,  he  found  him- 
self hampered  by  the  force  of  the  Mamelukes  whom  he  had 
deceived,  but  who  were  still  a  strong  power  in  the  land. 
The  Ulumas,  the  people,  and  the  army  presented  to  him 
the  supreme  authority,  and  the  Sultan,  driven  by  policy, 
though  against  his  will,  invested  him  by  a  firman  with  the 
post  of  Governor- General.  It  was  only  after  a  great  show 
of  reluctance  that  the  cunning  Greek  accepted  the  lofty 
po.fltion  of  authority  for  which  he  had  been  intriguing. 
Like  Cesar,  he  needed  to  be  pressed  to  accept  the  crown. 
Thus  he  consummated  the  ambition  for  which  he  had  long 
been  working  alike  by  craft  and  the  commission  of  dark 
crimes.  English  inllucncc  with  the  Porte  subsequently 
induced  the  latter  to  offer  him  the  Pachalik  of  Salonica  in 
exchange  for  his  Kgyptian  authority,  in  order  to  get  the 
wily  soldier  out  of  the  way  of  British  plans  in  the  East. 
But  Mchcmct  AU  made  a  bold  stand.  Again  courting  the 
alliance  of  the  Mamelukes  whom  he  had  formerly  tricked, 
and  securing  the  friendship  of  France,  he  so  worked  on  the 
fears  of  the  Sultan,  who  dreaded  the  danger  of  losing  his 
valuable  suxcrainty,  that  the  Porte  again  made  a  virtue  of 
necessity,  and  confirmed  his  unruly  vassal  in  the  title  of 
Viceroy,  on  his  agreeing  to  pay  a  yearly  tribute  of  a  million 
dollars. 

England,  indignant  at  this  arrangement,  sent  an  expedi- 
tion to  Egypt,  which  was  encountered  by  Mchemct  near 
Rosctta,  and  was  vanquished   by  him.     He  was  guilty  of 


30 


M Ell E MET  AU. 


acts  of  gTcaC  brutality  and  cruelty  toward  hiit  foe,  but  be* 
coming  aware  that  it  was  not  his  interest  to  appear  before 
the  world  in  the  light  of  a  monster,  he  after^vard  sent  the 
remaining  prisoners  in  his  power  as  a  peace-offering  without 
ransom  to  appease  the  wrath  of  his  enemy.  It  is  interest- 
ing to  follow  the  history  of  this  man,  who  by  the  force 
of  native  genius  eventually  attained  power  in  perpetuity, 
shaking  the  throne  of  the  Suitan  and  wresting  from  him 
the  highest  dignity  ever  conferred  upon  a  subject — the 
dominion  of  a  practically  independent  empire.  He  was 
given  the  domain  extending  from  the  Mediterranean  Sea 
to' the  Equator,  a  vast  empire  in  itself,  and  the  hereditary 
succession  was  established  forever,  according  to  Mahom- 
etan law,  in  the  eldest  of  his  blood.  Like  Napoleon, 
Mehcmet  Ali  was  a  natural  soldier.  The  fortunes  of 
both  were  carved  out  with  the  sword  in  countries  of  which 
they  were  subjects  but  in  which  they  were  not  born,  and 
both  attained  the  highest  power.  The  one  died  a  prisoner 
in  the  hands  of  "  perfidious  Albion,"  the  other  died  a 
maniac  in  his  palace  near  Cairo.  The  successor  of  Napo- 
leon closed  his  reign  in  an  ocean  of  blood  ;  the  descendant 
of  Mehcmet  has  just  emerged  from  an  inglorious  war 
against  his  own  people,  escaping  by  the  aid  of  English 
bayonets. 

Travellers,  on  going  to  Cairo,  wind  their  way  in  a  gradual 
ascent  through  the  famous  street  called  Mouski,  while 
crowding  through  a  throng  of  shrieking  Arabs  and  ungainly 
camels,  and  crushing  against  donkeys,  people,  and  carnages, 
only  to  emerge  into  a  still  more  crowded  Arab  street.  Aided 
by  your  syce  (the  man  who  runs  before  your  horte  or  car- 
riage) you  manage,  in  the  greatest  confusion  of  sounds  and 
smells,  to  commence  the  steep  ascent  to  the  citadel.  After 
many  halts  the  great  gate  is  entered  fronting  the  mosque  of 
alabaster,  erected  by  the  Grand  Pacha  to  receive  his 
remain*. 

A  little  to  the  left  of  this  mosque  there  stands  the  rem- 


MEllEMET  AU. 


3' 


nant  of  a  Saracenic  building  which  was  a  part  of  the  palace 
where  once  resided  the  great  warrior,  Saladin.  This  site  is 
some  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  city,  on  one  of 
the  heights  of  the  Mokattim  hills.  Beyond  this,  and  on 
the  other  decline,  a  short  distance  away,  is  an  historical 
well,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  deep,  cut  through  the  lime- 
stone rock.  It  bears  the  name  of  the  patriarch  Joseph, 
and,  according  to  tradition,  was  excavated  by  him. 
Retracing  the  road  and  passing  around  the  mosque  to  a 
stone  platform,  wc  see  the  spot  from  which  a  Mameluke 
leaped  on  horseback  to  the  distance  of  sixty  feet  below,  as 
told  by  the  dragoman  of  today.  Passing  through  the 
mosque  a  short  distance,  another  great  gateway  is  entered, 
fronting  a  long  building  with  many  entrances,  stairways, 
salons,  and  an  extensive  harem  establishment.  This  build- 
ing was  the  palace  and  residence  of  Mchcmet  Ali.  All  the 
buildings  just  described  arc  inclosed  by  high  walls  and  sur- 
rounded with  fortifications  and  barracks  which  overlook  the 
city  and  valley  of  the  Nile,  the  Pyramids,  and  tombs  of  the 
Khalifs,  with  the  great  surrounding  desert.  The  whole  is 
called  the  Citadel.  It  is  here  that  Mchcmet  Ali  committed 
one  of  his  greatest  crimes,  which  only  an  Eitstcrn  despot 
could  justify  on  grounds  of  policy.  The  Sultan  having 
great  doubts— for  he  then  had  ambitious  dreams  of  empire 
— and  wishing  to  weaken  his  powerful  vassal,  sent  an  order 
to  the  Viceroy  to  make  war  upon  the  Wahabecs,  who  were 
then  threatening  Mecca.  Knowing  ihc  power  of  the 
Mamelukes,  those  independent  lords  in  the  interior,  whose 
influence  was  still  great,  and  who,  he  knew,  were  plotting 
against  him.  Mchemct  determined,  before  leaving,  to  settle 
the  question  with  them  once  and  forever.  After  coquetting 
with  his  victims  and  thoroughly  inspiring  them  with  confi- 
dence, he  invited  all  their  leading  men  to  a  grand,  elabo- 
rately prepared  banquet. 

After  the  magnificent  feast  was  ended  the  haughty  guests 
were  dismissed,  and  they  descended  into  the  courtyard  to 


3' 


MKlieUET  AU. 


mount  their  horses.  But  this  time  they  were  invited  to  a 
banquet  of  death.  The  inclosurc  was  lined  with  artillef>'. 
which  instantly  ojiened  fire  on  the  unfortunate  men,  while 
a  rain  of  bullets  fell  upon  them  from  hidden  soldiery  in  the 
Citadel.  Thus  occurred  the  instant  butchery  of  four  hun- 
dred men.  At  the  »ame  time  thousands  were  hunted  dowD 
and  slain  like  dogs  in  the  provinces.  This  was  the  end  of 
those  celebrated  freebooters,  the  Mamelukes.  Emin  Bey. 
the  chief,  who  leaped  the  wall  on  horseback  and  landed 
safely  on  the  debris  below,  was  afterward  taken  into  favor. 
and  became  one  of  Mehcmet's  stanchcst  supporters. 

The  Mamelukes  dead,  the  Viceroy's  sons.  Ibrahim  and 
Toussoun,  marched  .against  the  Wuhabees.  and  in  person  be 
led  an  army  to  the  Ilcdgas.  The  Sultan,  taking  advantage 
of  the  supposed  absence  of  Mchemct's  soldiery,  sent  Latif 
Pacha  to  assume  power  in  Eg>'pt.  The  envoy  was  wel- 
comed by  Mehemel,  The  Pacha's  representative,  with  a 
gracious  smile  and  olTcrs  of  services.  A  Turk  is  never  so 
treacherous  .is  when  most  gracious.  Biding  his  time  until 
he  had  Latif  I'acha  completely  in  his  power,  Mehemet  put 
him  to  death.  Stirred  by  this  act  of  declared  hostility  on 
the  part  of  the  Porte,  the  Viceroy  set  seriously  to  work  to 
establish  a  firm  government,  with  the  sole  object  of  throw- 
ing off  the  Turkish  yoke,  and  it  has  been  thought  that  he 
even  aimed  »t  conquering  the  entire  Ea.<it.  His  Arabian 
and  Syrian  wars  which  followed  caused  him,  however,  to 
abandon  his  dreams  of  an  Arabian  empire. 

In  creating  a  nation  he  borrowed  his  policy  largely  from 
the  example  of  Napoleon,  with  whom  he  had  come  in  dose 
contact  in  Egypt  ;  and  in  following  the  policy  of  the  great 
Corsican  he  naturally  made  many  mistakes,  chiefly  in 
trying  to  accomplish  too  much.  There  are  many  evidences 
of  his  folly  pointed  out  by  those  who  h.-ive  lived  long  in 
Egypt.  In  attempting  the  great  work  of  damming  the  two 
rivers  of  the  Nile  known  as  the  Barrage,  twelve  miles  below 
Cairo,  that  he  might  irrigate  the  lower  delta,  he  miscalcu- 


MEIIEMET  AU. 


35 


I 


Uted  his  means.  The  scheme  was  too  mighty  for  so  poor 
a  counto'i  if  not  absolutely  impracticable  in  any  case,  on 
account  of  its  cost.  After  immense  sums  had  been  spent 
upon  it  the  attempt  was  only  partially  successful  ;  but  some 
of  the  great  engineers  of  the  world  have  expressed  the 
opinion  that  even  in  its  unfinished  state  the  work  is  one  of 
the  greatest  conceptions  of  human  genius.  The  incident  is 
often  quoted  of  Mchcmct's  reply  to  a  French  engineer 
relative  to  his  manner  of  cutting  the  Mammondich  Canal, 
which  connects  Alexandria  with  the  Nile,  one  of  the  sub- 
stantial  monuments  of  his  reign.  The  inquisitive  Giaour 
was  disposed  to  joke  the  Viceroy  on  the  crookedness  of  the 
canal.  Mchemet  asked  him  if  all  the  rivers  were  not  m^dc 
so  by  Allah.  And  the  reply  being  in  the  affirmative,  he  said 
the  example  of  Allah  was  good  enough  for  him  to  follow. 

Occupying  himself  after  his  wars  in  establishing  his 
finances,  he  was  oppressive  in  exacting  money  with  which 
to  meet  his  extraordinary  demands.  Desiring  indepen- 
dence, he  established  many  manufactories,  liberally  invited 
foreigners,  among  them  numbers  of  military  men  from 
France  for  his  army  and  military  schools,  and  sent  many 
young  men  to  Europe  to  be  educated.  Egypt  being  pe- 
culiarly agricultural,  much  of  his  time  and  money  were 
devoted  to  the  development  of  improved  methods  of  culti- 
vation. He  was  the  first  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of 
the  Sea  Island  cotton,  and  he  planted  innumerable  forest 
and  shade  trees  throughout  Egypt.  Successful  in  his 
Arabian  and  Bedouin  wars,  he  determined  upon  the  con- 
quest of  Sennaar,  in  upper  Africa,  and  ordered  his  favorite 
son,  Ismail,  aided  by  Ahmet  Bey,  who  had  married  his 
daughter  Nesif,  to  take  military  possesion  of  that  prov- 
ince. To  reach  the  gold  region,  where  they  thought  to 
Rnd  rich  mines,  was  one  grand  object  of  the  expedition. 
Coming  to  the  village  of  Chendy,  Ismail  demanded  of 
Menek-Ncm'r,  the  ruler  of  the  country,  large  sums  of  gold 
under  threats  of  terrible  vengeance  ;  and  in  addition  he 


34 


ME/TEMET  AU. 


required  the  chief  to  send  him  his  attractive  young  daugh- 
ter, in  accordance  with  the  usage  of  the  country.  The 
Invaders  had  also  asked  for  straw  for  their  horat's  and  the 
same  for  beds  for  the  soldiers.  The  whole  people,  appar- 
ently  delighted,  readily  brought  enormous  quantities  of 
straw  and  spread  it  around  the  building  in  which  Ismail  and 
his  party  were  established.  Crowds  came  singing  .tnd 
dancing,  with  torches  to  light  the  gay  throng.  Ismail  was 
enjoying  the  scene  instituted,  as  he  supposed,  in  his  honor, 
when  suddenly  the  father  of  the  gtrl  signalled  his  people, 
>nd  in  an  instant  the  straw  was  lighted,  the  building  was  in 
a  blaze,  and  the  son  of  the  Viceroy  with  his  whole  party 
was  burned  to  death.  None  were  allowed  to  escape  except 
the  young  girl,  and  even  she  was  spared  much  against  the 
will  of  her  father  ;  Mahometan  as  he  was,  he  considered 
her,  though  an  unwilling  victim,  dead  to  him.  The 
avengers  continued  dancing  the  dance  of  death,  their 
women  singing  the  song  of  joy,  until  the  last  cry  of  agony 
had  died  away.  Ahmet  Bey,  the  Deftdar,  as  he  was  called, 
hastened  from  Kordofan,  another  province,  to  avenge  the 
death  of  the  young  prince.  Naturally  cruel  .ind  remorse- 
less, he  put  thousands  of  the  people  to  the  sword  and 
applied  the  torch  to  their  villages,  sparing  neither  sex  nor 
age. 

This  man  Ahmet  was  a  Turk,  of  good  make  and  man- 
ners, but  he  was  said  to  look  at  one  "  with  the  whites  of 
his  eyes,"  which  gave  a  wicked  and  suspicious  expression 
to  his  face.  He  had  been  sent  by  the  Sultan  to  Egypt  to 
watch  the  course  of  the  Viceroy.  In  order  that  he  might 
attach  this  spy  to  his  interest,  Mehemet  gave  him  hitt 
daughter,  the  Princess  Zora,  called  more  frequently  Nesl6. 
Hannoum,  in  marriage.  He  knew  that  if  there  was  any 
one  on  earth  who  could  keep  Ahmet  Bey  in  good  faith  to 
him,  it  was  this  wily  and  heartless  woman,  who  loved  nq 
one  on  earth  except  her  father.  The  story  is  told  that, 
hating  the  Deftdar,  he  gave  NesI6  to  him  in  order  that  the 


MEf/EMET  ALL 


II 


Utter  might  enjoy  the  association  of  one  as  cruel  and  brutal 
as  himself.  Though  not  a  perfect  beauty  according  to  our 
Western  idea,  she  had  symmetry  of  form  and  charm  of  face, 
and  was  called  handsome.  She  could  be  extremely  refined 
and  witty,  was  fond  of  .idmirnlion,  and  poiiscsscd  many 
winning  w.iys.  During  the  lifetime  of  her  husband  she  was 
true  to  him,  according  to  report.  Aher  bis  death,  dread- 
ing, maybe,  another  such  an  alliance,  she  declined  to 
many  again,  but  gratified  her  appetites  in  a  succession  of 
cruel  yet  romantic  amours,  which  made  her  name  notorious 
throughout  the  East. 

An  amusing  incident  is  related  of  the  Deftdar,  which  I 
was  told  by  an  old  and  .attached  friend  of  Mehemet  Ali, 
who  has  given  me  much  information  concerning  the  traits 
of  that  wonderful  man.  Ahmet  Bey  while  in  command  of 
these  upper  provinces  required  his  French  engineers  to 
make  m-ignificcnt  maps  of  Kordofan,  Sennaar,  and  other 
portions  of  Africa,  accompanied  by  the  most  minute  ac- 
counts of  the  country,  the  people,  their  language,  customs, 
habits,  and  mode  of  thinking,  the  whole  constituting  the 
most  perfect  description  we  have,  even  yet,  of  that  region. 
He  sent  copies  of  the  maps  and  descriptions  to  the  Geo- 
graphical Institute  at  Paris,  who  were  pleased  to  get  them. 
The  French  at  that  time  were  anxious  to  cultivate  a  good 
understanding  with  the  new  government,  and  accordingly 
a  member  of  the  society  was  sent  to  thank  Ahmet  for  the 
valuable  present,  and  to  inform  him  that  he  had  been 
nominated  an  honorary  member.  Those  who  have  visited 
Cairo  will  recollect  a  long,  low  stone  building  occupying  a 
lai^c  space  between  the  two  great  hotels  there.  It  was 
this  old  palace  into  which  the  Frenchman  was  introduced. 
While  seated  in  a  grand  salon,  d.izzled  by  the  extraordinary 
display  of  gilt  and  gold,  and  luxuriously  enjoying  his  ease 
upon  the  rich  silk  divans,  his  Oriental  contemplation  was 
suddenly  interrupted.  Hearing  an  extraordinaiy  scratching 
at  the  great  door,  he  supposed  it  to  be  the  Eastern  signal 


36 


MEHEMBT  AUA 


of  some  one  desiring  to  enter.  A  moment  later,  however, 
a  great  pressure  forced  the  door  partly  open,  and  to  the 
Frenchman's  amatement  there  appeared  the  head  of  a  large 
lion  with  glaring  and  savage  eyes,  its  shaggy  mane  partly 
covcTitig  them  and  adding  still  more  to  their  extraordinary 
glitter.  Entering  with  soft  tread  upon  the  Persian  carpet 
and  showing  his  enormous  white  teeth,  the  great  beast 
majestically  walked  toward  the  member  of  the  Institute, 
who,  giving  a  terrific  shriek,  rushed  to  the  second-story 
window,  intending  to  leap  headlong  into  the  street  below. 
But  he  was  in  a  harem  prison,  barred  with  iron.  As  quick 
as  thought  he  climbed  up  the  massive  damask  curtain  and 
crouched  on  the  top  of  the  cornice,  squeezed  into  the 
smallest  possible  space.  The  noise  alarmed  the  household, 
who  running  pell-mell  to  Icarn  the  nature  of  the  difficulty. 
saw  the  distintjuishcd  Frenchman  in  the  undignified  pre- 
dicament described,  giving  loud  expression  to  his  dolorous 
fear,  while  the  king  of  beasts,  seemingly  amazed,  regarded 
him  curiously  as  if  desiring  to  know  what  strange  animal  it 
was  that  had  crossed  his  path.  Those  who  came  seeing 
the  lion  turned  back  in  apparent  amusement,  adding  still 
more  to  the  (right  of  our  hero.  At  that  moment  Ahmet 
Bey  appeared.  He,  too.  showed  his  amused  appreciation  of 
the  scene,  but  helping  his  visitor  to  descend,  he  assured 
him  that  the  lion  was  perfectly  gentle.  "  But."  said  the 
trembling  Frenchman,  "  we  arc  not  accustomed  in  Paris  to 
live  in  intimate  association  with  such  ferocious  beasts." 
Completing  his  errand  as  soon  as  pos»ble,  he  left  the 
palace  never  to  enter  it  again. 

The  story  was  current  that  Mehemet  in  his  old  age  com- 
plained of  his  health,  and  that  his  daughter  Zora  gave  him 
a  potion  in  the  hope  of  curing  him.  It  unfortunately 
Affected  hts  brain  and  ended  in  madness,  from  which  he 
never  recovered.  But  I  was  informed  that  this  was  a  mis- 
take, the  true  story  being  as  follows  :  Mehemet  had  been 
showing  signs  of  approaching  insanity,  and  this  daughter. 


3.IEHEMBT  AU. 


37 


who  loved  him  dearly,  observed  that  one  of  his  idioiiyncra- 
sies  was  that  he  trembled  with  fright  at  the  sight  of  Ahmet 
Bey,  her  husband.  The  grim  old  warrior  having  pathetically 
told  her  of  his  distress,  she  caressingly  said  to  him  that  she 
would  provide  a  medicine  that  would  relieve  his  sufferings. 
The  next  day  she  prepared  a  cup  of  the  finest  Mocha  coHee 
and  perfumed  it  witli  cinnamon,  of  which  the  Turk  is  very 
fond.  Holding  it  to  the  lips  of  her  husband  with  her  beau- 
tifully jewelled  little  hand  (cruel  to  all  others,  he  had 
always  been  kind  to  her),  she  with  her  sweetest  smile  asked 
him  to  drink  it.  Its  aroma  delighted  him,  and  he  sn-al- 
lowcd  it  at  a  single  draught ;  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the 
remedy  for  her  father  had  its  effect ;  the  cause,  as  she  sup- 
posed, of  his  ailment  was  forever  silenced,  and  the  beautiful 
Princess  Ncsl£-Hannoum  was  a  widow. 

There  are  many  acts  of  cruelty  related  of  Ahmet,  who  to 
this  day  is  remembered  in  Eg>'pt  as  a  demon,  and  who  was 
cruel  apparently  for  no  better  reason  than  a  fiendish  delight 
in  human  suffering,  1  forbear  to  mention  such  stories  for 
fear  of  exaggeration.  But  there  are  several  anecdotes 
which  show  that  at  times  he  possessed  a  rough  sense  of 
justice.  A  sheik  in  one  of  the  villages  of  Kordofan  where 
he  commanded,  whose  duty  it  was  to  provide  for  the  feed* 
ing  of  the  government  animals,  did  not  pay  the  poor  keeper 
for  the  grain,  but  pocketed  the  money  himself,  believing 
that  no  one  would  dare  complain  of  him.  The  facts  came 
to  the  cars  of  the  Deftdar,  however.  Ahmet  at  once 
required  the  ofBcial  to  pay  over  the  money  he  had  stolen, 
and  then  ordered  that  all  his  teeth  should  be  extracted, 
cruelly  telling  him  during  the  infliction  that  as  he  had 
devoured  the  substance  of  the  poor,  he  should  be  deprived 
of  the  power  of  masticating  his  own.  On  another  occasion 
a  merchant  complained  of  the  arbitrary  act  of  a  military 
subordinate,  ^vhich  wa-i  so  apparent  and  flagitious  that  an 
immediate  execution  was  ordered.  By  great  exertion  the 
merchant  saved  the  offender  on  the  latter  returning  the 


3« 


MEHEMET  AU. 


money  ;  but  he  was  forced  lo  get  upon  \\\%  knees,  tafcc  off 
the  shoes  of  the  merchant,  and  kiss  the  bottom  of  the  in- 
fidel dog's  (cct — the  most  fearful  of  humiliations  to  a  Turic. 

Here  it  may  be  proper  to  say  something  further  concern- 
ing Ncsl^-Hannoum,  a  woman  whose  name  is  notorious  ia 
Egypt.  It  is  impossible  to  pass  by  the  history'  of  this 
remarkable  woman  without  mentioning  some  of  her  ex- 
ploits, and  I  shall  do  so  in  as  delicate  a  manner  as  possible. 
It  hail  already  been  said  that  her  husband  had  proved  him- 
self cruel  and  relentless  to  those  within  his  power.  It  is  a 
singular  fact  that  though  Ahmet  inspired  fear  in  all  others, 
even  including  the  great  Mehemct  Ali,  who  had  made  the 
East  tremble,  yet  he  was  in  abject  fear  of  this  woman.  Of 
kindred  spirits,  they  were  actuated  by  similar  impulses,  and 
were  conscious  of  their  similarity.  They  divined  that  ihev 
were  two  beings  distinct  from  the  rest  of  humanity  ;  that 
they  were  influenced  by  like  vicious  and  desperate  instincts, 
and  by  a  strange  freak  of  nature  this  mutual  recognition  of 
character  bred  in  them  a  great  respect  and  admiration  for 
each  other,  and  they  never  failed  to  show  the  greatest  Xovt. 
and  tenderness  in  their  intercourse.  Though  after  Ahmet's 
death  the  widow,  in  gratifying  her  desires,  entered  upon  a 
career  of  crime  which  scarcely  finds  a  parallel  in  history, 
she  had  always  been  (save  in  the  single  instance  cited,  when 
she  acted  under  the  powerful  influence  of  filLiI  affection) 
true  and  devoted  to  this  man,  whom  .she  poisoned.  Fear- 
ing the  anger  of  her  family,  and  thinking  to  save  her  name 
from  becoming  a  curse  among  her  people,  she  never  hesi- 
tated to  provide  the  means  of  destroying  the  object  of  her 
caprice  when  her  safety  required  It,  She  had  never  read 
history,  and  of  course  knew  nothing  of  those  extraordinary 
women  whose  careers  her  own  resembled  ;  she  was  there- 
fore her  own  great  original  in  vice  and  crime. 

Inclosed  in  a  harem  and  knowing  nothing  of  the  world, 
accustomed  to  silence  those  who  possessed  too  much  knowl- 
edge of  her  secrets,  she  judged  that  prudence  made  it 


UEHEMBT  AU. 


39 


necessjtry  to  do  the  same  toward  those  who  did  not  belong 
to  her  charmed  circle,  but  who  may  have  been  admitted 
into  it.  £vcry  kind  of  deception  was  practised  in  the 
introduction  of  her  victims  into  her  harem.  It  was  thought 
that,  led  blindfolded,  they  could  never  know  their  new 
acquaintance;  and  as  the  Nile  alone  could  reveal  the 
secret,  no  one  would  ever  be  the  wiser.  Two  or  three  of 
her  victims  having  disappcanxJ,  rumor  began  to  be  busy, 
and  Ncsl£  became  famous.  The  neighbors  saw  stningers 
enter  and  never  return  again.  Suspicious-looking  objects 
were  seen  cast  by  moonlight  into  the  Nile,  and  noises  like 
a  death-struggle  were  heard  within  her  inclosure.  These 
ominous  signs  were  cautiously  whispered  about  by  the 
Arabs,  for  she,  being  a  princess  and  the  daughter  of 
Mchcmet  Ali,  whose  n.amc  they  feared,  they  dreaded 
vengeance  from  his  anger.  A  bold  and  adventurous  for- 
eigner, against  the  advice  of  his  friends,  determined  to 
enter  the  portal  of  death,  having  satisfied  himself  of  the 
truth  of  the  rumors.  The  route  wns  circuitous  ;  bandaged 
and  led  through  broad  gardens,  he  ascended  and  descended 
stairs  and  was  finally  halted  ;  the  bandage  was  removed, 
and  he  found  himself  in  a  brilliantly-lighted  Oriental  salon, 
where  the  princess  in  her  rich  costume  nestled  on  her  silk 
divan,  playing  with  a  necklace  of  rose-coral  and  diamonds, 
while  a  maid  kneeling  at  her  feet  was  engaged  in  fanning 
her. 

Dances  were  executed  by  the  young  slaves ;  delightful 
dinners  and  voluptuous  music  were  constantly  introduced 
for  his  entertainment ;  every  resource  of  Oriental  luxury 
was  taxed  to  add  to  his  pleasure  ;  but  there  is  a  term  to  all 
earthly  happiness.  The  gallant  gentleman  was  finally  told 
that  the  head  of  the  house  was  about  to  return,  and  It 
being  against  the  law  for  a  stranger  to  enter  the  abode  of 
bliss,  it  was  necessary  for  him  to  take  his  departure  or  risk 
his  life  and  the  lives  of  those  who  were  compelled  to 
remain.     "But,"   he  replied,   "fair  lady,  your  husband 


40 


tHHKMK\ 


never  can  return  here,  (or  the  simple  reason  that  you  are 
the  Princess   Nesl^-Hannoum,  and  a  widow."      Upon  her 
denying  tlii.t  statement,    he    »ftid   that  slic   was    not    only- 
known  to  him,  but  that  he  was  acquainted  with  the  fortuoe 
that  awaited  him,  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  precautions 
had  been  taken  to  guard  against  his  being  tlirown  into  the 
Nile.     Alarmed,  the  princess  smilingly  protested  that  no 
one  had  ever  been  killed  by  her  orders,  that  he  was  the  first 
who  had  ever  penetrated  into  her  harem,  and  disniisied 
him  with  the  injunction  to  keep  his  introduction  a  secret- 
A  similar  instance  occurred  afterward  when  two  or  three  of 
her  eunuchs  were  killed  by  the  daring  lover  whom  she  had 
doomed  to  death.     This  created  a  profound  sensation  in 
Cairo,  and  caused  the  banishment   of  the  princess  by  her 
nephew.  Abbas  Pacha,  to  Constantinople.     On  his  death 
she  returned,  and  again  created  an  excitement  by  her  volup- 
tuous crimes,  but  was  put  under  surveillance  and  made  to 
behave  herself  by  her  brother  SaVd,  who  had  the  windows 
of  her  harem  walled  up.     Though  she  long  ago  followed 
her   numerous  victims,   yet    these  walled-up  windows  are 
pointed  out  to  this  day  as  mementoes  of  her  criminal  life. 
To  show  the  degradation  to  which  the  system  of  plurality 
of  wives  inevitably  leads,  it  is  well  to  mention  another  oft- 
told  talc  of  crime  and  cruelty  practised  in  the  secrecy  of 
the  harem.     A  Mussulman  killed  his  wife  for  infidelity. 
The  father  of  the  woman  was  so  well  satisfied  of  her  guilt. 
and  so  moved  by  the  feeling  which  sustains  one  of  the 
Faithful  under  such  circumstances,  that  he  commiserated 
the  unfortunate   man,  and    in   his    anxiety  to  soothe  his 
lacerated  feelings  ofTcrcd  him  in  marriage  another  daughter, 
much  younger  and  of  ravishing  beauty,  in  lieu  of  the  mur- 
dered one.     It  is  most  remarkable  that  these  Mussulman* 
not  only  look  upon  a  murder  like  this  as  entirely  natural 
and  proper,  but  think  it  only  right  that  a  sister  of  the  slain 
wife  should  be  given  in  her  stead.     A  want  of  confidence 
in  women  is  thoroughly  instilled  into  their  corrupt  and 


MEHEMET  ALI.  41 

brutal  minds,  but  in  such  a  case  they  ar^e  that  the  new 
wife  will  avoid  her  sister's  crime  for  fear  of  bringing  upon 
herself  her  sister's  punishment.  The  government  never 
interferes,  it  matters  not  how  cruel  the  events  which  pass 
within  the  harem  walls,  and  the  police  are  blind.  There 
was  an  old  Pacha,  over  eighty,  who  had  a  young  harem, 
and  two  of  the  ladies  gave  birth  to  offspring.  Believing 
that  age  precluded  him  from  being  the  father  of  these  inter- 
esting creatures,  his  vengeance  sacrificed  one  of  the  mothers, 
and  nothing  was  done.  The  other,  after  being  terribly 
beaten,  it  is  said  escaped  to  Europe. 


CHAPTER   IV. 


ABBAS  AND  SAID  TACHAS. 


ac«Mston  a(  Abbas,  gtandsun  of  HeheniM— His  odious  and  deiestabl*  ' 
chkDKler — Ptominent  traiu  o(  a  ruler  wbo  was  heanlets.  avaricious,  aai'* 
worthless — His  dcallv  supposed  lo  h»VG  been  instigaled  bj  liis  aunt. 
NctK-Hannouin — Sucreided  by  SaH  Parha.  his  uncle,  Mehemei'sson — 
Incidents  of  his  reign  and  trails  of  his  character^ Salul  a  si  range  mixtuie 
of  good  and  eril  — His  eccentricities  of  purpose  and  action — Lcsecpsaod 
the  Suei  Cunal— Death,  of  Said  after  a  short  reifn. 

Ibrahim  Facha,  who  held  power  for  some  time  during 
the  insanity  of  Mehemet,  succeeded  him  at  his  death,  but 
reigned  in  his  own  right  only  seventy-five  days.  He  was 
just,  though  severe,  and  died  universally  regretted.  A 
beautiful  equestrian  statue,  erected  in  Cairo  in  his  honor  by 
his  son  Ismail,  was  wantonly  destroyed  by  fanatics  in  the 
recent  unhappy  war. 

Abba*  I'aclia,  the  grandson  of  Mehemet  AH  and  son  of 
Toussoun,  who  served  in  the  campaign  against  the  Waha- 
becs  of  Arabia,  was  the  next  in  age,  and  became  Viceroy. 
This  man  was  a  singular  character  in  his  way,  and  in  no 
wise  followed  the  methods  of  his  predecessors.  He  seemed 
to  study  how  best  he  could  personify  a  fiend.  His  un- 
doubted ability  seemed  instinctively  directed  to  everj-  con- 
ceivable wickedness.  Socially  and  as  Viceroy,  in  every 
affair  of  life  his  career  was  marked  by  cruelty  and  vindic- 
tiveness.  A  striking  peculiarity  of  his  character  was  a 
dccp-scatcd  hatred  of  his  nearest  relatives.  His  own 
mother  and  hi-i  own  son  did  not  escape  his  cowardly  and 
heartless  suspicions,  and  he  enjoyed  with  keen  relish  the 
cruel  and  unjust  espionage  to  which  he  constantly  sub- 


ABBAS  AlfD  SAID  PACHAS. 


43 


}ectcd  them.     The  \vanton  annoyances  with  which  he  per- 
secuted his  wealthy  subjects  were  of  such  a  nature  that  their 
only  safety  was  in  concealing  their  money  and  their  per- 
son?.    The  squeezing  process,  so  exquisitely  applied,  was 
one  of  the  traits  of  his  great  financial  ability.     No  Viceroy 
"was  ever  known  to  keep  so  full  a  treasury.     A  fanatical 
Mussuhnan,  in  filling  his  colTers  with  the  glittering  prize  he 
never  failed  to  thank  Allah  that  he  had  placed  under  his 
hand  so  much  wealth  to  meet  the  necessities  of  the  state. 
While  exiling  his  own  family  and  murdering  his  people, 
this  peculiar  man   never  neglected   to  offer  his    prayers 
devoutly  to  Allah  on  Friday.     Though  reverent  in  his  Ma- 
hometan duties,  in  the  same  breath  hts  caprice  doomed, 
on  the  slightest  suspicion,  the  most  honored  of  his  subjects 
to  the  Faiougle,  hi*  prison  in  Central  Africa,  a  place  said 
to  have  been  selected  because  of  its  de.idly  climate.     A 
writer  of  note  mentions  the  fact  of  there  being  an  original 
order  on  file  at  Khartoum,  in  the  Soudan,  which  directs  his 
minions  "  to  get  a  sickly  place,  and  to  put  but  one  door  and 
window  in  the  prison  to  be  erected,  and  to  feed  the  prison* 
crs  on    a   quarter  of  a  ration."     When  the  fatal  malaria 
and  burning  heat  of  that  climate  are  considered,  no  more 
refined  and  horrible  punishment  can  be  imagined  to  inflict 
upon  poor  human   nature — not  hardened  criminals  in  this 
<ase,  but  the  best  men  in  the  land,  whose  only  fault  wa« 
the  possession  of  wealth,  in  clutching  which  he  was  able  to 
show  his  wonderful  financial  ability.     Numbers  of  rich  and 
poor  were  confined   together   in   the   same  party,   with  a 
wooden  yoke  around  their  necks  and  their  hands  manacled, 
and    were    marched    often    great   distances,    their    ankles 
chained  in  heavy  fetters,  to  die  thousands  of  miles  from  any 
possible  hope  of  comfort  or  aid.     It  is  said  that  his  super- 
stition went  so  far  that  he  believed  in  magic  "  when  prac- 
tised in  the  name  of  Allah,"   but  visited  his  vengeance  on 
those  who  attempted  it  in  the  name  of  the  unbelieving  jin. 
Having  numerous  magicians  constantly  about  him,  they 


ABBAS  AXD  SAti)  PACHAS. 


I 


often  guided  him  with  their"  secret  science"  in  the  most 
serious  afTairs  of  state.  He  dismissed  the  able  foreigners 
whom  Mehemet  Ali  had  collected  around  him  for  the 
advancement  of  science  and  the  arts  and  the  introduction 
of  a  better  civilization.  So  great  a  dread  had  he  of  for- 
eigners that  he  even  fled,  when  he  dared,  the  approach  of 
diplomatic  agents.  Abbas,  when  a  prince,  once  left  the 
haunts  of  civiliied  men  and  placed  himself  on  a  cliff  near 
Mount  Sinai,  in  the  most  inhospitable  desert.  Dislildnf 
woman,  there  was  no  one  to  share  his  isolation  except  a 
few  favorite  dogs,  and  the  people  of  Egypt  thought  him 
possessed  of  the  evil  eye.  They  were  delighted,  even  at 
that  early  day,  to  get  him  out  of  their  sight. 

The  contrast  between  this  man  and  the  "  grim  old  war- 
rior," socially  and  in  government,  was  marked.  Mehemet 
Ali  was  accuiitomcd,  after  the  cares  of  state,  to  hasten  to  his 
garden  (for.  like  all  Orientals,  he  was  fond  of  shady  trees  and 
fragrant  flowers),  and  there  for  many  hours  each  day  he 
indulged  in  the  conversation  of  distinguished  foreigners. 
This  relaxation  was  to  him  a  source  both  of  pleasure  and 
of  profit,  and  he  applied  much  that  he  learned  in  this 
agreeable  manner  to  the  improvement  of  his  country's 
condition.  Enjoying  relined  associations,  though  himself 
steeped  in  blood  spilled  to  gratify  his  ambition,  this  singu- 
lar man  in  his  hours  of  case  was  exceedingly  amiable  and 
complaisant  to  the  young  and  fair  creatures  with  whom 
even  in  his  old  age  he  was  accustomed  to  surround  himself. 
There  was  something  romantic  in  this  scarred  old  soldier 
passing  his  leisure  in  the  society  of  innocent  young  Greek 
and  Circassian  women,  with  his  frequent  (Inshallah) 
"  please  God  "  for  the  manifold  blessings  which  were  con- 
ferred upon  him.  Foi^etting  in  the  smiles  of  beauty  the 
great  wrongs  he  had  done  in  his  career  of  crime,  he  soothed 
his  conscience,  if  he  had  such  a  thing,  with  the  idea  that  he 
was  a  true  son  of  the  Faithful,  and  that  all  his  ex- 
periences were  but  the  carrying  out  of  great  and  good 


^BBAS  AHD  SAW  PACHAS. 


45 


designs  under  the  special  countenance  and  protection  of 
Allah. 

The  name  of  Abbas  is  connected  with  two  fine  works — the 
railroad  from  Alexandria,  to  Cairo  and  Suez,  and  the  Bar- 
rage—of  which  wc  have  already  written  as  commenced  by 
Mehemet  Ali.  He  incurred  the  deep  hatred  of  his  aunt, 
the  Egyptian  Messah'iia.  Nesl£,  and  it  is  believed  that  she 
planned  his  assassination,  a  doom  which  he  always. feared 
and  took  everj*  precaution  to  avert.  It  finally  befell  him  at 
the  hands  of  two  eunuchs,  who  were  specially  appointed  to 
watch  over  his  repose,  and.  who  had  been  sent  by  Nesl£- 
Hannoum  from  Constantinople  to  wreak  the  revenge  which 
she  cherished. 

SaTd  Pacha,  one  of  the  youngest  sons  of  Mehemet,  was 
the  next  in  succession.  He  came  to  the  throne  only  to  find 
that  Abbas  had  emptied  the  treasury  into  his  own  private 
•coffer  or  had  lavished  the  money  upon  his  own  family. 
The  country  w.as  in  disorder,  and  those  attached  to  the 
government  were  crying  for  bread,  fulfilling  to  the  letter 
the  adage  so  common  in  the  East,  "  After  me  the  deluge." 
Abbas,  like  the  rest,  had  spent  vast  sums  in  bribing  the 
cormorants  at  Constantinople,  who  were  only  too  anxious 
to  take  the  money,  to  give  the  crown  to  his  son.  Tliey 
swore  by  the  Prophet  that  so  reasonable  a  request  should  be 
granted,  knowing  perfectly  well  that  the  chances  were  that 
they  could  never  comply  with  their  promise.  But  a  single 
friend  recollected  Abbas'  dying  injunction  ;  EIfy  Bey,  in 
hi-i  own  interest  and  that  of  his  master,  did  his  best  to  carry 
out  the  scheme,  but  signally  failed.  A  cup  of  perfumed 
cofTee  smoothed  his  passage  into  the  other  world. 

The  drowning  of  Ahmet  Pacha,  the  next  after  SaTd  in 
right  to  the  throne,  gave  rise  to  suspicions  in  which  Said 
and  Ismail  were  both  inculpated.  Said  was  suspected  be- 
cause he  had  invited  all  the  leading  men  of  his  family  to  a 
ffitc  at  Cairo,  and  the  car  containing  them  plunged  into  the 
Nile,  an  accident  in  which  many  lives  were  lost,  that  of  the 


I 
I 


4fi 


ABBAS  AKD  SAID  PACltAS 


hcir-apparcnt  among  the  number.  But  it  was  said,  on  the 
other  hand,  that  Said  liked  the  victim,  and  would  not  have 
committed  no  great  a  crime  as  the  drowning  of  his  whole 
family  simply  to  make  his  young  son  Toussoun  his  suc- 
cessor. It  so  happened  that  Ismail,  the  enemy  ol  Said  and 
next  in  birthright  to  Ahmet,  born  of  a  difTcrcnt  mother  and 
only  a  few  months  younger,  feigned  sickncxs,  and  was  not 
on  the  railroad  at  the  time.  It  was  known  he  was  rich, 
ambitious,  and  full  of  intrigue,  and  therefore  there  were 
many  who  thought  that  as  he  was  the  only  one  directly  in- 
terested he  had  arranged  the  whole  scheme  to  pave  his  way 
to  the  succession.  There  is  no  evidence  to  connect  either 
with  the  catastrophe,  and  if  there  is  a  secret  the  probabiti- 
tics  arc  that,  like  many  others  of  its  kind  in  the  East,  it 
will  always  remain  one.  An  accident  like  this,  in  which 
there  are  numbers  intereitted,  never  failit  to  arouse  suspi- 
cions, often  well  grounded.  The  fault  is  with  the  system 
of  polygamy  as  it  exists  in  the  Eastern  countries.  There 
being  many  sons  by  different  mothers  in  the  same  harem, 
the  jealousies  of  the  mothers,  which  they  study  to  instil 
into  the  minds  of  their  sons,  increase  with  years,  until  all 
tiesof  relationship  are  foigotten  in  ambition,  and  finally  the 
matter  ends  in  remorseless  crime. 

Said  Pacha  in  his  early  day  was  tall  and  symmetrical, 
with  blue  eyes,  light  hair,  and  fair  complexion,  but  toward 
the  close  of  his  reign,  when  the  writer  made  his  acquaint- 
ance, he  had  grown  stout,  with  that  dazed  look  so  common 
in  the  prematurely  old  man  of  the  East.     Complaisant, 

nvivial,  and  generous  with  his  friends,  his  good  humor 
sometimes  intemiptcd  by  uncontrollable  rage.  In 
these  moods  he  often  committed  acts  of  cruelty,  which  were 
followed  by  the  deepest  remorse.  In  his  penitence  he  went 
beyond  reason  in  his  efforts  to  remedy  the  wrong  done. 
The  policy  of  Abbas  was  reversed  ;  foreigners  were  invited, 
for  their  learning  and  wealth  ;  the  army  was  reorganixed  ; 
influential  men  in  c.\itc  were  recalled,  and  thousands  un- 


ABBAS  AND  SAID  PACHAS. 


47 


juiitly  incarcerated  were  set  free.  Said  also  instituted  great 
works  for  the  good  of  the  country.  His  last  great  act  was 
the  grant  of  the  concession  to  De  Lc&seps,  which  resulted  in 
the  cutting  of  the  Suez  CAnal — a  concession  which,  though 
of  incalculable  service  to  the  world,  was  of  doubtful  value 
to  Egypt.  In  letting  the  astute  Frenchman  lead  him  into 
his  meshes  the  Viceroy  violated  a  well-established  tradition 
of  ht^t  family.  Said  did  not  live  to  sec  this  great  work  con- 
summated. Under  the  new  regime  commerce  and  agricult- 
ure prospered,  and  as  a  result  his  treasury  was  replenished. 
Still,  extraordinary  extravagances  continued,  and  the  eternal 
tax  watt  levied  with  renewed  vigor.  Luckily  for  Egypt,  the 
American  war  came  on,  Egyptian  cotton-planting  increased, 
and  as  a  consequence  the  government  grew  rich.  Tolerant 
in  religion,  he  visited  instant  punishment  upon  those  of  his 
people  who  through  fanaticism  interfered  with  the  Chris- 
tian. On  one  occasion,  violence  being  threatened  by  cnthu> 
siasts,  the  four  leading  Mahometans  were  summoned  to 
SaTd's  presence  and  told  that  they  should  be  held  responsi* 
blc  for  any  religious  disturbance  ;  that  if  a  hair  on  the  head 
of  a  single  Christian  was  touched,  their  heads  should  fall 
and  grace  the  four  gates  of  the  city.  This  salutary  ha- 
rangue had  the  desired  effect. 

The  unfortunate  people  of  Egypt  welcomed  SaYd's  acces- 
sion to  the  throne  with  delight,  deeming  any  change  from 
the  rule  of  Abbas  a  gain  to  them  ;  but  they  soon  had  reason 
to  lament  the  heavy  weight  of  taxation  laid  upon  them  by 
their  new  ruler.  Said's  policy  was  capricious  and  oppressive, 
and  was  marked  by  changes  so  sudden  and  so  radical  as  to 
create  something  like  a  convulsion  in  the  state.  When 
neglect  and  extravagance  had  brought  the  government  to 
the  brink  of  financial  chaos.  Said  startled  the  countiy  by  a 
decree  dismissing  ail  important  officers  of  state  and  an- 
nouncing his  purpose  to  take  all  administrati^'c  matters  into 
his  own  hands.  A  brief  experience  of  the  rc?tults  of  this 
policy  cured  the  Viceroy  of  his  delusion,  and  the  old  system 


48 


ABBAS  AXD  SAVO  PACffAS. 


re-establi-thed.  This  disastrous  experiment  cost  Said 
the  respect  of  the  country,  and  he  was  thenceforth  regarded 
as  an  incapable  and  capricious  statesman — a  "crank**  tn- 

sted  with  despotic  power. 

One  of  his  mad  schemes  was  the  building  of  a  great  city 
at  the  forks  of  the  Nile  twelve  miles  below  Cairo,  at  what 
is  known  as  the  Barrage.  Everybody  in  Egypt,  foreigners 
ind  nativcit,  were  invited  to  witness  the  planting  of  the 
rcomcr-stone.  No  display  had  ever  equalled  the  series  of 
entertainments  given  on  the  occasion,  and  the  affair  cost 
the  state  a  fabulous  sum.  There  were  more  than  a  hun- 
dred thousand  people  who  banqueted  day  and  night  at  the 
government's  expense.  The  Egyptians  who  were  destined 
to  pay  the  bill  looked  on  as  long  as  the  f£te  lasted,  won- 
dered wh.at  it  all  meant,  and  dismissed  it  quickly  from  their 
minds.  It  is  not  their  habit  to  think  long  or  deeply. 
They  dream  and  smoke,  and  leave  cverj-thing  to  Allah. 
The  foreigners  enjoyed  the  varied  costumes  of  Said's  Nubi- 
ans and  soldiers  in  coats-of-mail,  the  Bedouins  in  thetr  best 
regalia  riding  their  Bncitt  horses,  and  the  great  display  of 
French  fireworks.  They  ate  Safd's  fine  dinners  and  drank 
his  best  wine,  and  cared  little  whether  he  built  his  city  or 
not.  The  city  thus  extravagantly  ushered  into  being  con- 
sists of  the  single  stone  originally  planted  in  great  solemnity 
with  Moslem  prayers.  There  was  a  gallant  show  and  a 
great  expenditure,  and  that  was  all. 

It  was  said  in  Egypt  that  Said  was  not  blameless  in  the 
treatment  of  his  queen,  the  Sitta  Hannoum  or  "  great 
lady."  Though  she  may  not  have  fulfilled  the  order  of 
nature  which  an  Oriental  thinks  indispensable,  giving  birth 
to  children,  yet  she  was  beautiful,  charming,  instructed, 
and  good.  She  had  been  a  young  Circassian  slave  adopted 
by  Said's  mother  and  educated  in  her  harem  ;  the  compan- 
ion of  his  youth  and  intended  for  his  bride,  there  was  every- 
thing in  her  winning  ways  to  attract  this  wayward  son  of 
the  Prophet,  and  she  was  alwa>-s  mistress  of  her  home,  for 


ABBAS  AUD  SAlb  PACtlAS. 


49 


he  never  openly  presented  her  with  -a  lival.  She  bore  her 
neglect  with  angelic  resignation,  and,  still  a  widow,  slie  has 
never  been  heard  to  utter  a  complaint.  She  tenderly  loved 
Said's  son  Toussoun,  born  o(  one  of  her  slaves,  who  was  sub- 
sequently made  next  to  herself  in  importance.  Toussoun, 
the  son,  died  during  my  residence  in  Egypt.  I  shall  speaV 
of  him  hereafter.  Ill  for  a  long  time,  Said  waited  his  sum- 
mons like  a  true  fatalist,  and  as  is  usual  with  Eastern 
people,  all  his  sycophantic  courtiers  abandoned  the  setting 
for  the  rising  sun  with  the  exception  of  a  Frenchman,  who 
remained  true  to  the  last.  Said  had  prepared  a  mausoleum 
at  the  Barrage,  alwa>'S  a  favorite  spot  in  his  mcmor>-,  and 
desired  as  a  last  request  to  be  entombed  there  ;  but  Ismail, 
his  successor,  refused  to  obey  the  injunction,  and  ordered 
bis  body  to  be  placed  in  the  tomb  at  Alexandria,  where  it 
sttU  remains. 


CHAPTER  V. 


■lANTA. 


A  pecnllar  Orlenml  city— The  iicene  ol  one  of  (he  ei'otcti  liltt  and  (airs  o( 
the  Orient— Scene*  »l  T«nta— The  Saint  Ahmed  el  BhIowcr— Hl»  (une- 
tion  aa  a  pMron  and  inurcmor — The  iiios(|ue  raised  to  his  meoiory — 
nia>eio(  ibc  great  (air — A  gathering  (rom  utl  pant  of  ihe  Mahomeun 
worlit— The  Tanta  Ktc  a  lurvlval  o(  Ihe  licentious  orgiea  of  Idit  ol  the 
aodent  city  near  lllU  tile — Dervl«hc«  and  dancing  giils— The  game*  of 
Ihe  people. 

Not  long  after  embarking  on  his  dahabeeyah,  the  most 
luxurious  of  river  boats,  though  primitive  in  its  model,  the 
traveller  beholds,  as  he  ascends  the  Nile,  the  homes  of  the 
fellaheen.  These  mud  villages,  made  up  of  hovels  consist- 
ing of  a  single  room  lighted  by  the  doorway,  are  noisome 
and  filthy  abodes.  In  the  home  of  perennial  spring  tite 
fellaheen — men,  women,  and  children — arc  clothed  in  a 
simple  blue  cotton  chemise  and  white  cotton  drawers,  which 
mnkc  up  the  whole  apparel  for  both  sexes.  The  mud  hut 
in  which  the  fellah  dwells  contains  no  furniture  but  a  mat 
and  a  few  clay  vessels  (or  cooking  purposes.  The  disgust 
and  pity  of  the  tourist  arc  increased  on  entering  one  of 
these  squalid  abodes.  Donkeys,  sheep,  and  chickens  share 
the  narrow  quarters  with  the  human  animals,  while  the  best 
part  of  every  hovel — the  sugar-loaf  shaped  upper  part — is 
given  over  entirely  to  pigeons,  by  the  breeding  of  which  the 
peasants  earn  a  good  share  of  their  revenue. 

And  yet,  overcrowded  as  they  are,  amid  wretched  and 
unsanitary  conditions,  the  Nile  peasants  seem  contented 
enough.  Indeed,  they  are  not  disposed  to  accept  a  better 
condition  even  when  it  is  offered  them.     Said  Pacha  sought 


TANTA. 


5t 


to  benefit  them  by  building  model  villages  with  well-made 
streets  and  abundant  house-room  iox  each  family,  but 
after  a  brief  experience  of  better  living  the  fctlahcen  re- 
turned to  their  huts,  and  could  never  again  be  persuaded  to 
accept  the  more  comfortable  homes  offered  them. 

As  one  scans  the  Delta  the  picture  is  relieved  by  the 
sharply-dcAned  minarets  of  the  stone  mosques  which  arc 
found  in  every  village.  The  roads  are  bordered  by  the 
beautiful  acacia  and  popinack  trees,  with  their  wealth  of 
highly  perfumed  blossoms.  In  other  climates  during  the 
winter  season  hoary  frost  hides  the  prospect,  but  here  the 
waving  green  plain  astonishes  the  stranger,  who  is  enrapt- 
ured with  such  unaccustomed  beauties. 

Crossing  the  Rosetta  branch  of  the  Nile,  midway  be- 
tween it  and  the  DamictCa  branch,  we  find  Tanta,  located 
in  the  centre  of  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Delta,  a  perfectly 
Oriental  and  very  important  city.  The  best  time  at  which 
to  visit  this  city  is  during  the  summer  fair,  which  occurs 
yearly  in  the  month  of  July.  For  weeks  before  that  time 
there  is  commotion  throughout  I^gypt.  Social  and  com- 
mercial interests  arc  aroused,  and  all  the  various  Mahom- 
etan sects  are  interested  in  the  approaching  event.  Great 
crowds  of  dervishes,  with  their  green  and  parti-colored 
flogs,  swarm  in  irregular  masses  through  the  country,  on 
their  way  to  say  their  prayers  at  Tanta  and  to  do  some 
honest  begging  during  the  great  (air.  Men,  women,  and 
children,  mounted  on  camels,  donkeys,  and  horses,  throng 
the  roads,  while  thousunds  on  foot  are  seen  for  days  and 
nights  wending  their  w.iy  to  the  seat  of  pleasure  and  relig- 
ion. Not  only  Egypt,  but  all  Africa,  Eastern  Europe,  and 
Asia  send  religious  votaries  and  merchants  with  silks, 
satins,  embroideries,  and  every  kind  of  merchandise  to 
tempt  the  Eastern  buyer.  , 

Amid  the  throngs  who  come  with  merchandise  come  also 
those  who  bring  daintier  wares  in  human  form — beautiful 
houris,  virgins  sent  forth  by  their  CircLssian  or  Georgian 


5» 


TAXTA. 


mothers  to  find  an  asylum  in  the  land  of  the  Nile. 
maidens  have  been  carefully  nurtured  to  be  made  market- 
able,  and  are  happy  if  tlicy  succeed  in  becoming  the  property 
— wife  or  slave,  as  the  case  may  be — of  some  rich  Bey  or 
Pacha.  It  is  still  the  custom — though  now  slightly  veiled 
— to  fix  a  price  upon  these  young  women,  the  sum  var>*ing 
with  the  beauty  of  the  merchandise.  The  girl  whose  mar- 
riage in  this  market  is  pecuniarily  successful  is  happy  En  the 
thought  that  she  has  done  well  for  herself  and  her  parent*, 
and  her  success  induces  her  young  kinswomen  to  follow  her 
from  their  bleak  homes  in  the  Caucasus  to  the  sunnier 
climate  of  Eg>'pt.  Her  sisters  look  forward  to  m.irr>'ing  in 
the  same  way,  while  her  brothers  are,  by  her  f,ivor.  edu- 
cated in  the  military  schools  for  employment  in  the  army  or 
the  civil  service.  She  thus  provides  for  the  future  of  her 
kinsmen  by  her  marriage,  often  rai»ng  the  son*  of  an 
obscure  family  to  positions  of  profit  and  honor. 

Tanta  has  of  late  years  become  a  considerable  mart  for 
European  commerce.  The  remarkable  growth  of  cotton 
and  sugar  culture  in  the  rich  valleys  around  the  city  has 
greatly  increased  the  value  of  the  land  and  the  attractive- 
ness of  the  region.  The  town  is  thoroughly  Oriental,  and 
except  a  few  European  merchants  the  inhabitants  arc  all 
Arabs.  There  arc  found  here  on  every  hand  the  mud- 
houses  and  the  narrow,  filthy  streets  tilled  with  throngs  of 
people,  and,  of  course,  unclean  animals,  ready,  unlike  the 
Arabs,  to  dispute  the  stranger's  path.  There  are,  however, 
some  stone  houses  of  little  architectural  beauty,  relieved 
now  and  then  by  an  attempt  at  the  Moresque,  The  city's 
grand  object  of  attraction  is  the  tomb  of  its  saint,  which  is 
found  in  one  of  the  finest  mosques  in  Egypt.  The  archi- 
tect from  whose  hand  this  mosque  came  displayed  the 
finest  Saracenic  taste  in  chiselling  its  columns  and  in  pen- 
cilling its  Oriental  tracery.  Its  architectural  ornamentation 
exhibits  great  skill,  after  the  best  models  of  the  ancient 
style.     No  part  of  it  ts  more  attractive  than  the  huge  gUt- 


TANTA. 


53 


tering  B>'zantine  dome,  Its  brazen  mantle,  always  rcRecting 
the  eternal  sun  of  Egypt.  The  inner  decorations  are  inter- 
esting and  beautiful  in  their  simplicity.  The  catafalque  of 
the  holy  Saint  Said  Ahmed  cl  Bcdowcc  is  covered  with  rich 
red  velvet,  adorned  with  embroidery  and  incloised  within  a 
handsome  bronze  railing.  The  light  and  airy  minarets 
beside  the  dome  of  the  mosque  pierce  high  up  into  the 
heavens,  and  around  them  above  the  roof  arc  railed  piaz^is, 
from  which  the  shrill  cries  of  the  muezzins,  as  they  chant 
the  adan  or  call  to  prayer,  are  in  quaint  harmony  with  the 
additional  proclamation  that  "  there  is  no  Deity  but  God  ; 
I  testify  Mahomet  is  his  Prophet."  Climbing  to  this 
eminence,  the  picturesque  scene  is  bewildering  ;  the  city  of 
60,000  inhabitants  is  beneath  you,  and  on  the  level  plain  of 
the  Delta  for  miles  around,  extending  beyond  the  range  of 
vision,  arc  spread  the  tents  of  half  a  million  people,  with 
thousands  of  horses,  donkeys,  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  camels, 
and  buffaloes,  a  living  and  variegated  panorama.  Descend- 
ing to  earth  again,  the  scene  which  meets  you  is  even  more 
astonishing.  As  usual,  the  traditional  Arab,  in  his  blue 
chemise,  without  shoes,  and  with  camel's-hair  tarboosh, 
meets  you  at  every  turn.  His  wife  may  be  met  elsewhere, 
perhaps,  but  never  in  his  company  in  public.  Her  dress  is 
like  his  own,  but  she  is  always  veiled.  If  a  wealthy  sister, 
she  wears  yellow  shoes,  a  rich  colored  silk  dress,  and  a 
black  silk  /labarah,  which  covers  her  person.  She  is  often 
seen  with  stockings  down  upon  her  heels,  unless  her  broad 
satin  trousers  hide  them  from  observation,  as  she  awk- 
wardly ambles  along.  The  Syrian,  Turk,  Ethiopian,  Alge- 
rian, Tunisian,  European,  Greek,  Persian,  American,  and 
Jew,  with  many  other  strange  people,  pass  in  review,  the 
head-dress  being  the  distinguishing  mark  of  faith  and 
nationality.  Men  of  all  races  make  up  this  varied  and 
extraordinary  scene.  Tired  of  wandering  through  this  sea 
<*f  humanity,  and  suffocated  with  the  myriads  of  smells, 
one  gladly  leaves  these  material  things  to  seek  an  asylum 


54 


TAh-TA. 


near  the  shrine  of  the  renowned  saint,  who  brings  so  many 
thousands  of  other  saints  and  sinners  to  do  honor  to  hia 
tomb,  many  of  wliom  seek  the  aid  of  his  miraculous  power. 
Ssid  was  bom  at  Fez.  and  on  his  return  from  Mecca  re- 
mained at  Tanta,  where  he  died  ;  his  fStc  has  continued 
for  six  hundred  years  since  his  death,  to  serve  the  purposes 
of  trade  as  well  as  those  of  worship.  It  attracts  all  the 
religious  who  are  able  to  come,  as  no  other  Siitnt  in  the 
Eg)'ptian  calendar  is  held  to  be  so  sacred.  Many  think  he 
is  the  successor  to  the  god  Sebennctus,  the  Egj-ptian  Her- 
cules, whose  attributes  were  given  him  by  popular  tradition. 
His  aid  is  invoked  when  sudden  calamity  threatens,  and  the 
£g>-ptians  believe  that  storms  or  accidents  are  avoided  by 
calling  out  to  him,  "  Ya  Said,  ya  Bfdo-uxt ;"  and  the  song 
of  "  Gab  d  y'ocsra"  ("  He  brought  back  the  captives") 
records  the  power  of  this  wonderful  saint.  The  Arab  has 
peculiarly  appropriated  his  aid,  as  in  the  second  call  to 
prayer,  chanted  one  hour  before  day.  when  his  power  is 
invoked  under  the  name  of  "  Aboo  Tarag,"  Sheik  of  .the 
Arabs.  After  a  long  residence  in  Egypt  and  intimate  asso- 
ciation with  all  claisses  of  the  people,  from  the  dwellers  in 
palaces  to  those  who  inhabit  mud  huts  or  wander  over  the 
descit,  my  conviction  is  strong  that — whether  Copt,  Chris- 
tian, or  Mahometan — the  people  of  Egypt  lai^ely  derive 
their  religiou;;  beliefs  and  their  customs  from  the  supersti- 
tions of  the  ancient  Egyptinnrt,  The  Koran  with  its  scim- 
itar has  neither  desired  nor  had  the  power  to  uproot  them. 
1  am  acquainted  with  numerous  rites  common  among  the 
ancient  Egyptians  which  are  of  daily  use  among  these 
h.iters  of  polytheism. 

In  their  wisdom  they  say  it  is  the  teaching  of  their  law 
to  accept  traditions  coming  down  to  them  through  the  ages, 
when  not  inconsistent  with  Mahometanism.  and  that  this 
binds  them  by  invisible  threads  to  their  faith.  This  is  par- 
ticularly the  case  among  the  Bedouins  of  the  desert. 
Alone  in  these  mishty  wastes,  they  conjure  up  innumerable 


TANTA. 


5S 


superstitions  and  mingle  them  with  those  old  patriarchal 
customs,  which  they  slill  retain  in  nearly  the  exact  forms  of 
which  we  read  in  the  Old  Testament.  Among  all  classes  of 
Mahometans  it  is  the  fixed  belief  that  SaYd  has.  the 
miraculous  power  of  curing  sterility  in  woman.  It  is  the 
inviolable  right  of  every  barren  woman  to  vow  a  visit  to 
this  saint,  and  her  husband  never  opposes  her  sacred  pur> 
pose.  On  the  contrarj-,  he  is  delighted  with  the  hope  and 
belief  that  her  prayers  at  the  tomb  will  have  the  c^cct  of 
giving  them  offspring.  Without  children,  in  the  eye  of  the 
Faithful  the  Mahometan  woman  is  dishonored,  and  of 
course  she  never  fails  to  worship  at  thi,s  shrine  if  it  be 
pos^ble  for  her  do  so.  It  is  considered  a  violation  of  all 
propriety  for  a  husband  to  be  seen  with  his  wife,  and  under 
no  circumstances  does  he  journey  with  her.  She  rarely  or 
never  leaves  home  at  any  other  time,  and  in  coming  hither, 
if  she  belongs  to  the  better  class,  she  is  accompanied  by  the 
faithful  guardian  whose  duty  it  is  to  watch  over  her  honor. 
So,  too,  the  wife  of  the  fellali,  barefooted  and  dressed  in 
blue,  but  without  a  guardian,  visits  the  shrine  with  a 
similar  hope  to  secure  the  saint*s  efficient  mediation. 
Tanta  during  the  fair  is  a  scene  of  joyous  mirth,  and  the 
women — usu.aUy  caged  birds,  but  now  let  loose — enter 
gayly  into  the  festivities.  In  thorough  disguise,  they  arc 
lost  to  sight  in  the  vast  multitude.  At  the  end  of  eight 
days,  the  time  allotted  for  prayer  and  for  the  intercession 
of  the  saint,  they  return  home  in  the  full  belief  that  their 
devotions  have  been  blessed. 

I  am  sorry  to  write  that  the  picturesque  scene  is  too 
often  marred  by  the  licentiousness  so  common  among 
Orientals,  and  Tanla  yearly  witnesses  orgies  only  compar- 
able with  those  of  the  ancient  city  of  Busiris,  which  was 
^tuated  a  few  miles  distant  in  this  valley.  It  was  there 
the  ffitc  of  Isis  was  celebrated  by  all  Egypt,  and  truth 
makes  it  necessary  to  say  that  the  modem  city,  in  following 
the  traditions  of  centuries,  rivals  her  ancient  sister  in  those 


5 


TANTA. 


I 

I 

I 

I 

I 

I 


scenes  which  made  the  mode»t  Father  of  History  blush 
when  writing  the  amazing  story  of  the  worship  of  that 
famous  goddess. 

Making  one's  way  through  the  vast  mob,  with  its  fleas, 
flics,  and  horrible  odors,  it  is  a  pleasant  relief  to  meet  a 
perfumed  houri  veiled  in  her  black  ailk  habara.  She  is  un- 
known, of  course,  (or  not  even  her  husband  could  recognize 
this  waddling  bundle  of  goods.  The  Pacha  is  easily  recog- 
nized as  an  officer  of  the  government  by  his  European 
costume,  modified  by  the  red  tarboosh,  the  broad  black 
trousers,  and  a  highly  colored  silken  vest.  A  rich  Israelite 
follows — a  gem  merchant — in  costly  robes  of  striped  silk 
secured  at  the  waist  by  a  rich  Cashmere  shawl ;  he,  too, 
wears  the  tarboosh  and  red  slippers.  The  European  in  the 
tall  hat  is  doubtless  an  English  tourist,  for,  unlike  men  of 
greater  adaptability,  the  Englishman  never  changes  his 
dress  with  his  climate.  The  hat  is  the  only  thing  visible 
above  the  heads  ol  the  bystanders,  and  there  arc  thousands 
of  persons  in  this  throng  who  have  never  seen  head-gear  of 
that  description  before.  It  is  to  them  the  most  singular  if 
not  the  most  picturesque  of  coverings,  and  while  its  wearer 
remains  within  view  they  never  cease  to  murmur  "  In- 
glesi."  The  proud  and  untamable  Bedouin  puts  in  his 
appearance  with  his  white  woollen  burnous — a  sort  of 
blanket — covering  his  head.  Binding  the  burnous  with  a 
cord,  be  permiLs  it  to  envelop  his  person,  and  is  then  the 
only  really  independent  man  in  the  vast  throng. 

Going  back  to  the  vicinity  of  the  mosque,  your  path  i» 
blocked  by  the  crowds  of  howling  saints  who  make  up  the 
numerous  sects  of  dervishes.  Among  them  are  numbers  o( 
the  dancing  sect,  whose  votaries  swing  themselves  around 
in  whirling  circles  for  hours  to  the  monotonous  music  of  the 
lute.  They  make  night  hideous  with  their  screeching 
prayers,  simply  singing  the  name  of  Allah  In  concert  for 
hours  until  their  violent  devotions  end  in  convulsions. 

The  Saadcs  sect  of  serpent-charmers,  who  profess  the 


TANTA. 


5T 


dark  power  of  controlling  vipers,  arc  also  represented. 
They  make  a  precarious  living  by  travelling  over  Egy-pt 
displaying  their  magical  gifti  and  freeing  the  habitations  of 
the  people  from  reptiles.  When  any  religious  f€te  is  to  take 
place  they  arc  certain  to  be  present.  These  modern 
Psylli,  who  pretend  to  make  serpents  their  playthings  and 
to  charm  them  with  their  call,  profess  also  to  cure  their 
bite.  They  arc  greatly  venerated  by  the  Mahometans. 
The  stofy  of  the  origin  of  this  numerous  sect,  who  have 
their  own  holy  sheik,  is  that  an  ingenious  S>Tian  was  sent 
by  his  master  to  gather  some  sticks,  but,  after  cutting 
them,  found  that  he  had  brought  no  cord  with  which  to 
bind  them  together.  Having  seen  a  nest  of  snakes  near 
by,  he  twined  the  reptiles  around  his  fagots  and  thus  bore 
them  to  the  house.  When  the  bundle  was  thrown  down 
before  the  master  the  serpents  crawled  off  with  the  .tticks, 
and  the  astonished  man  at  once  declared  his  servant  to  be 
a  saint  gifted  with  miraculous  powers,  and  advised  him  to 
enter  without  delay  upon  his  holy  office.  This  the  Syrian 
did,  soon  gaining  many  disciples  at  Damascus.  Hi»toml> 
there  is  filled  with  venomous  creatures,  among  which  his. 
disciples  say  they  can  lie  without  danger.  1  have  seen 
these  people  during  the  ceremony  of  the  dostk  (riding  over 
the  human  road)  at  Cairo,  seixe  a  live  cobra,  the  most 
deadly  of  Knakcs,  two  inches  from  its  head,  still  with  the 
poisonous  fang  uncxtracted,  they  say,  though  this  I  do  not 
credit.  They  bite  the  reptile's  head  off,  chew  it,  and,  I  am 
told,  in  some  instances  swallow  it ;  but  I  have  always  no- 
ticed when  near  them  that  some  friend  stands  immediately 
behind  the  "  performer,"  and,  unobserved,  runs  his  finger 
in  his  mouth  and  takes  out  the  hideous  morsel.  During 
the  time  that  the  snake  operator  is  performing,  his  agitation 
and  contortions  are  hideous,  requiring  several  persons  to 
hold  him  ;  but  my  observation  is  that  all  this  is  affected. 
These  people  cure  the  bite  of  a  snake  by  scarifying  the 
flesh  and  sucking  the  poison  out,  first  putting  lemon  juice 


5« 

in  their  niQUlbs.  There  is  a  pustule  that  often  breaks  out 
upon  long  residents  in  the  East,  which,  it  is  said,  is  caused 
by  the  breath  of  the  serpent,  but  which  really  comes  from 
sleeping  in  the  open  air.  The  snake- ch:iriners  make  a  lini- 
ment of  cercsc  and  oil  of  sesame  with  which  they  cure  the 
malady. 

It  i*  necessary  to  advert  to  the  Alm^e,  one  of  the  acces- 
sories of  a  Mahometan  religious  festival,  without  which 
dance  the  Beys  and  Pachas  would  return  to  their  homes 
chagrined,  and  a  stranger  who  happens  to  sojourn  in  Egypt 
in  the  summer,  and  who  is  certain  to  visit  the  fair,  would 
think  il  had  lost  its  chief  attraction.  VVc  find  the  I'acha 
squatted  with  numerous  acquaintances  around  him,  anx- 
tiously  awaiting  the  appearance  of  the  fair  Circassians. 
Dignified  lie  sits,  apparently  in  deep  thought,  smoking  his 
chibouque,  but  really  thinking,  as  usual,  about  nothing. 
Tile  dancers  arc  generally  three  or  four  young  girls,  beauti- 
fully dressed  in  Oriental  costumes,  with  light,  gauzy  panta- 
loons. Soon  with  tiny  feet,  and  their  slight  figures  prettily 
cambered,  they  glide  into  the  dance,  and  all  arc  pleased  with 
their  poetry  of  motion  in  harmony  with  the  slow  cadence  of 
voices  and  the  soft  strains  of  the  kanoon  and  kamingah.  It 
would  be  much  more  pleasing  if  with  their  provocative  blue 
eyes,  fringed  with  long  velvety  lasht-s,  one  had  not  to 
encounter  the  smile  of  bold  voluptuousness  which  plays 
over  their  features  during  this  peculiar  dance.  It  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated  ;  it  can  never  be  described. 

I  have  often  had  occasion  to  speak  of  the  freedom  of 
worship  tolerated  in  Egypt  under  Ismail  Pacha.  In  most 
cities  and  villages  the  cross  is  seen  side  by  side  with  the 
crescent.  No  man  asks  whether  you  go  to  the  Christian 
church  or  the  Mahometan  mosque.  There  is  one  thing 
the  Mahometan  will  not  concede,  however,  and  that  is 
the  right  to  quit  the  fold  of  the  Faithful.  Death  is  the 
penalty.  I  heard  of  but  one  case  in  which  the  apostate 
escaped,  and  he  had  to  fly  to  save  himself  from  being  killed 


TAfTTA. 


59 


by  his  own  family.  Mahometans  say  they  do  not  care  to 
proselytize ;  that  there  are  as  many  Mahometans  now 
a»  they  want  to  meet  in  heaven  ;  but  neither  will  they  su^cr 
apostasy  to  go  unpunitshcd.  Notwithstanding  the  toler- 
ance mentioned,  the  Mahometan,  with  few  exceptions, 
hales  all  Christians  ;  but  the  feeling  is  kept  in  check  by  the 
government,  and  has  to  find  expression  othcn^'isc  than  in 
violence.  At  one  time~l  do  not  know  that  it  is  so  now — 
the  throngs  at  Tanta  gave  expression  to  their  contempt  for 
Christians  in  a  masquerade,  in  which  the  Crusaders  were 
caricatured  for  the  amusement  of  the  ignorant.  The  cus- 
tom was  handed  down  from  a  more  intolerant  age.  There 
arc  at  Tanta  a  number  of  suits  of  armor,  said  to  have  been 
taken  in  battle  during  a  more  martial  era  in  the  history  of 
this  race.  I  believe,  however,  they  are  the  same  that  Said 
Pacha  had  manufactured  for  his  Nubian  guard.  It  will  be 
recollected  that  St.  Louis  was  defeated  at  Mansourah  on 
his  way  to  Cairo  by  the  Caliph  El-Salch-Ayoub  in  1249.  A 
number  of  Arabs  dress  themselves  in  these  costumes,  some 
representing  the  sons  of  the  Prophet  and  others  the  Chris- 
tian Crusaders.  The  latter,  as  a  matter  of  course,  arc 
vanquished,  and  the  sport  consists  in  chasing  them  igno- 
miniously  from  the  battle-field.  A  more  amusing  scene  is 
the  dressing  up  of  one  of  their  number  as  a  venerable  indi- 
vidual, whom  they  make  up  as  a  Pacha,  Bey,  or  some  other 
dignitary  hated  by  the  people.  The  multitude  follow  him. 
resorting  to  every  device  to  sliow  their  contempt.  A  good 
runner  is  selected  for  the  part,  who  distances  bis  pursuers 
and  so  ends  the  sport. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
THE  FELLAH  AND  HIS  MASTER. 


The  anceiiry  of  the  Egyptian  p«uani — Hi»  condlllon,  [wsi  *od  pretent^ 
Resuhi  of  agcc  of  *iavety  and  wretched  net*— Misreprc«enut!oaii  ol  bis 
cb«r«eter— The  kouibwhand  enfoncd  Ubor — Effortii  nuxle  tn  im|fiove 
tut  condUion  during  the  rcisn  of  the  present  dynuijr — The  average 
Egyptian— The  cScct  on  him  of  his  religion — Ismail's  auempt  to  (weep 
away  intolerance  ~-  Impoaslbllity  ol  reform  in  Mahomcua  countrle* 
except  througli  a  material  change  in  tbelr  present  tcligion. 

The  most  interesting  person  in  Egypt,  and  one  with 
whom  acquaintance  is  soon  formed,  is  the  fellah.  The  de- 
scendant, not  improbably,  of  those  who  built  the  Pyramids, 
we  see  him  to-day  a  toiler  in  the  mud,  wearing  nothing  but 
a  rag  around  hi^s  loins.  Or  perhaps  he  may  be  in  some  cases 
of  the  blood  of  those  victorious  warriors  who  followed  the 
green  banner  of  the  Prophet  into  the  heart  of  Asia,  Africa, 
and  Europe.  In  either  case  his  descent  is  illustrious.  But 
for  many  centuries  the  plight  of  the  Eg>'ptian  fellah  has  been 
a  wretched  one.  He  has  served  as  a  beast  of  burden  under 
foreign  taskmasters  during  centuries  of  misrule.  The  infer- 
ence would  be  that  all  vitality  ha.s  been  beaten  out  of  him  ; 
that  though  he  wears  the  likeness  of  a  man,  harsh  treatment 
has  transformed  him  into  a  beast  that  cares  for  nothing  ex- 
cept to  crawl  into  its  house  when  the  day's  work  is  done. 
Recent  events,  however,  have  shown  very  clearly  that  the 
fellah  is  not  altogether  the  spiritless  animal  described  by 
casual  tourists,  who  take  their  opinions  at  second-hand  from 
the  dragoman  employed  to  guide  them  in  their  hurried  rush 
through  the  country.  A  writer  in  BlaehvoocCs  Magasitu 
for  August,  1881,  who  pretends  to  know  the  fellali,  does 


THE  FELLAH  AHD  HIS  MASTEJt. 


6t 


not  give  his  true  character  when  he  tells  us  that  "  he  is  so 
accustomed  to  the  lash  that  he  rather  prefers  it."  giving  an 
illustration  which  he  avers  came  under  hts  own  observation 
while  staying  with  an  official  who  was  repairing  canals. 
His  statement  is  that  a  man  who  had  persistently  shirked 
his  work,  seemingly  overcome  by  conscience,  voluntarily 
came  to  the  official  one  day  and  said  that  he  was  prepared 
to  go  to  work,  but  that  he  could  not  do  so  without  being 
compelled.  He  had  never  in  his  life  worked  on  a  canal 
until  beaten,  and  there  was  apparently  something  repug- 
nant to  his  feelings  in  doing  so,  even  for  pay,  without  this 
salutary  stimulant  ;  he  therefore  asked  for  a  hundred  blow9 
of  the  kourbash  upon  the  soles  of  his  feet.  The  punish- 
mcnt  was  administered,  though  contrary  to  law  ;  the  man's 
conscience  was  relieved,  and  he  went  to  work  in  a  happy 
frame  of  mind.  Again,  it  is  stated  that  under  the  Bond- 
holders' rule  the  old  device  of  the  Inquisition,  of  beating 
confessions  out  of  the  people  charged  with  crime,  has  been 
found  necessary,  and  is  now  in  use.  If  this  writer's  state- 
ments arc  true,  is  it  to  be  wondered  at  that  riots  accom- 
panied by  a  cry  against  Christian  rule  so  constantly  occur? 
The  writer  of  the  above-mentioned  article,  in  giving  the 
incident  in  illustration  of  the  v.alue  of  the  kourbash,  which 
recently  came  under  his  obscrv-ition,  says  :  '*  It  will  be 
seen  that  it  has  too  strong  a  hold  upon  the  people  to  be 
readily  abandoned,  and,  indeed,  although  it  is  nominally 
prohibited  by  law,  its  use  is  lai^ely  resorted  to  sub  rosa — 
by  the  native  officials,  especially  in  the  detection  of  crime." 
The  Egyptian  fellah,  relieved  from  excessive  apprehen- 
won,  no  doubt  feels  a  natural  exultation.  Like  many  more 
favored  races,  he  prefers  enjoying  his  ease  when  not  com- 
pelled to  work,  and  congratulates  himself  that  the  time  is 
past  when  he  can  be  forced  to  it.  tt  is  not  at  alt  surprising 
that  he  shirks  when  called  upon  to  labor  on  the  canals  and 
■other  public  works  without  pay.  It  is  of  course  right  that 
at  certain  periods  he  should  give  his  labor  for  the  public 


I 
I 


1 

I 
I 


f>l 


TffB  FELLAff  AfTD  HIS  MASTER. 


good,  as  tlie  country  is  purely  agricultural,  and,  besides 
needing  constant  irrigation,  i<i  subject  to  inundation't.  The 
repairing  of  canals  under  such  conditions  is  ncccs3ar>'  for 
the  general  weal,  and  the  right  lo  impress  labor  has  at  one 
time  or  another  been  enforced  among  all  nationn.  But  in 
Egi'pt  the  right  to  compel  the  toil  of  the  peasant  class 
rested  on  no  such  necessity,  but  depended  solely  upon  the 
caprice  of  t>'rannical  officials,  high  and  low.  Hard  as  it  is 
upon  the  fellaheen,  the  system  of  government  established 
by  Mehemet  Ali  on  the  ruins  of  Turkish  rule  is  a  great  im- 
provement upon  the  wretched  tyranny  under  which  Kgypt 
had  groaned  for  two  centuries  before.  The  Turkish  rule 
was  a  sort  of  feudal  system  under  the  Mamelukes,  with  a 
Turkish  Pacha  in  nominal  control.  Complete  anarchy 
reigned.  The  men  of  the  governing  class  were  aliens,  hav- 
ing neither  social  ties  nor  personal  interest  in  the  countiy. 
The  Turkish  Pacha  was  an  intriguer,  who  usually  paid  a 
large  sum  for  his  appointment,  and  who  used  his  authority 
only  to  enrich  himself.  So  long  as  his  own  revenues  were 
received  he  cared  little  what  the  officials  under  him  did  to 
the  fellaheen.  This  system  of  grinding  misrule  received  its 
first  great  check  from  Napoleon  at  the  Pyramids  and  from 
Klcbcr  on  the  plains  of  Hcliopolis  ;  the  finishing  stroke  was 
given  it  by  Mdicmct  JK\\,  the  fisherman  of  Cavalla. 

To  undcrst.-ind  properly  the  condition  of  things  at  the 
present  time  it  is  necessary  to  follow  still  further  Mehemet 
Ali  and  his  peculiar  tactics  in  establishing  his  system  of 
government.  There  was  little  that  he  would  not  sacrifice 
to  his  ambition,  though  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  all 
he  did  he  moved  like  a  man  of  sense  toward  a  certain  inde- 
pendence, which  was  really  for  the  ultimate  good  of  the 
people.  Before  claiming  supreme  power  at  the  hands  of 
the  Sultan,  it  was  necessary  to  break  down  all  the  petty 
governments  around  him  and  to  consolidate  them  in  his 
single  hand.  This  Mehemet  Ali  did,  at  any  and  every 
cost.    The  last  blow  in  silencing  all  conflicting  interests 


THE  FELLAH  AND  HIS  MASTEX. 


64 


WM  tlie  crushing  of  the  Mamelukes.  Perfc-ct  and  complete 
despotism  followed.  This  accompli<iht:d,  Mehemct's  first 
step  was  to  replace  all  officials  of  every  rank  by  his  immedi- 
ate friends,  holding  tightly  the  reins  of  power,  and  thus  it 
W.1S  that  the  felUh  was  ruled  by  one  despot  instead  of 
many.  The  fellah  was  materially  benefited  in  this  change,, 
for  when  acts  of  oppression  came  to  the  ears  of  Mchemetj 
the  remedy  was  swift  and  severe. 

Seizing  upon  the  whole  country,  the  most  of  it  a  waste, 
he  divided  it  out  among  his  relations  and  high  officers,  and 
finally  among  the  soldiers  and  fellaheen.  Rich  lands  wcrci 
given,  with  poor  lands  attached,  which  the  holders  were 
required  to  cultivate,  so  that  the  greater  part  of  Egypt 
where  the  waters  of  the  Nile  could  reach  the  land  w.as 
brought  under  ciiltivalton.  It  was  so  arranged  that  the 
taxes  should  fall  more  heavily  upon  the  rich  than  upon  the 
poor  lands,  and  his  decrees  were  so  directed  that  the  whole 
people,  rich  and  poor,  should  become  owners  of  the  soil. 
Another  consideration  with  him  was  the  cutting,  improving, 
and  regular  repairing  of  canals.  It  was  his  custom  to 
superintend  personally,  and  to  compel  his  sons  and  the  rich 
landholders  to  help  and  encourage  the  people  to  l.ibor  in 
this  work  of  necessity.  This  gave  rise  aftcrw,ird  to  what 
was  called  the  corvie  system  of  forced  labor,  which  under 
the  old  soldier  worked  for  the  good  of  the  people,  though 
subsequently  it  gave  rise  to  many  abuses,  as  it  could  be 
perverted  for  the  benefit  of  high  personages.  Vigilant  in 
alt  departments,  he  wrought  m-iny  improvements  and 
changes,  some  of  which  remain  to  this  d-iy.  He  left  to  his 
successor  the  germ  of  a  powerful  and  wcll-oi^anized  gov- 
emment,  but  of  course  could  not  legislate  or  decree  against 
misrule  and  decay,  when  his  great  power  should  fall  to 
the  keeping  of  corrupt  and  weak  descendants.  Abb;i8,  as 
already  stated,  reversed  his  whole  system,  introducing  a 
new  order  of  things  and  eschewing  European  influence  both 
in  commerce  and  government.     It  should  be  said  in  justice 


«4 


THE  FBtXAIt  AND  HIS  ilASTBR. 


to  him,  however,  that  he  took  a  deep  intcfcst  in  the  welfare 
of  the  fellJicen,  though  he  persecuted  the  rich  ;  but  as  he 
crushed  out  all  other  great  interests,  his  people  sufTercd. 
U  can  be  truly  said  of  Said  that  he  was  like  a  bright 
meteor.  His  sense  of  utility  manifested  itself  in  paroxysms. 
At  last  his  people  groaned  under  a  deeper  bondage  than 
that  which  had  oppressed  them  under  the  cruel  Abbas. 
Whtn  Ismail  seized  the  reins  of  the  state  he  found  Egypt 
jfli.ooo.oco  in  debt,  with  a  strong  European  control  in  all 
the  departments.  The  interior  economy  of  the  state  was 
administered  only  for  the  rich,  and  despite  all  the  good  in- 
tentions which  had  animated  Said,  cver>-thing  was  in  the 
hands  of  officials  who  ruled  solely  for  their  own  aggrandize- 
ment. Never  in  the  history  of  any  nation  were  there 
greater  exactions;  the  very  last  piastre  was  wrung  from 
the  poor  wretches  who  tilled  the  soil.  Such  was  the  inheri- 
tance of  Ismail  facha.  Tlie  Khfdivc.  who  commenced  his 
reign  in  1863,  evinced  every  dc»ire  to  build  up  liis  country 
and  elevate  the  fellaheen  who  composed  the  great  mass  of 
the  people.  The  just  and  upright  motives  which  prompted 
him  were  patent  to  all  intelligent  observers  of  facts  whicli 
were  of  daily  occurrence.  The  conclusion  early  in  his  reign 
was  that  his  ambition  pointed  in  the  direction  of  indepen- 
dent empire.  Whether  or  not  this  was  the  case,  it  was 
clear  that  he  was  deeply  interested  in  the  amelioration  and 
education  of  his  people.  There  was  nothing  which  so  bru- 
talized the  fellah  as  the  indiscriminate  use  of  the  lash. 
Ismail  set  his  foot  on  this  outrage,  and  never  ^liled  to  mete 
out  severe  punishment  to  oflicials  who  exercised  undue 
cruelty,  when  the  facta  were  made  known  to  him.  He 
listened  patiently  to  the  murmurs  of  his  subjects,  and  was 
always  well  please<l  to  remedy  their  grievance*.  The 
writer  personally  knew  him  to  do  many  acts  of  the  highest 
humanity,  in  righting  the  wrongs  of  his  people  at  the 
expense  of  officials  high  in  rank  and  importance.  If  there 
were  no  other  public  act  to  show  the  bent  of  hts  mind,  his 


THE  FELLAH  AND  HIS  MASTER. 


H 


course  in  abolishing  slavery  would  be  sufficient.  It  matters 
little  what  may  have  been  his  reasons,  the  fact  stands  ;  his 
act  was  of  his  own  will,  and  he  was  in  no  way  responsible 
to  others.  So  far,  then,  he  is  entitled  to  the  good  opinion 
of  the  world.  The  abolition  of  slavery  was  part  of  the 
great  policy  he  had  marked  out  for  himself.  He  instituted 
schools  for  the  education  of  vast  numbers  of  people,  and 
did  what  no  other  Oriental  had  ever  done — namely,  estab- 
lished schools  under  the  patronage  of  one  of  his  queens  for 
the  education  of  the  female  children,  believing  that  if  you 
educate  the  women  of  a  country  you  elevate  the  men. 
He  introduced  new  systems  of  agriculture  and  the  most 
approved  modem  improvements — cotton-gins,  sugar-miUs, 
refineries,  and  steam  pumps  for  raising  water  and  for 
irrigation.  Vast  forest  plantings,  railroad  and  telegraph 
building,  and  the  cutting  of  many  canals,  not  only  to  irri- 
gate but  to  reclaim  deserts,  stand,  with  many  other  acts  of 
beneficent  policy,  as  monuments  of  his  goodness  and 
wisdom.  Besides  perfecting  the  harbor  of  Alexandria,  he 
constructed  a  magnificent  quay,  which  stretches  a  mile  into 
the  Red  Sea  at  Suez,  for  the  commerce  of  India ;  dry 
docks  equal  to  any  in  the  world  at  Suez  and  Alexandria, 
and  several  iron  bridges,  notably  the  grand  bridge  across 
the  Nile  at  Ciiro.  The  construction  of  the  Opera-House 
at  Cairo  is  a  monument  to  his  taste  in  the  fine  arts.  But 
for  him  and  his  liberal  policy,  notwithstanding  the  vast 
concessions  of  Safd,  the  Suez  Canal  would  never  have  been 
built.  Tolerant  of  all  creeds,  he  gave  liberally  of  land  to 
any  denomination  of  Christians,  and.  Mussulman  as  he  was, 
he  was  always  willing  to  aid  in  erecting  beautiful  Christian 
churches.  There  was  nothing  that  this  liberal  and  noble- 
spirited  ruler  did  not  do  to  aid  the  progress  of  his  country  ; 
and  though  many  persons,  ignorant  of  the  truth,  still  claim 
that  the  fellah  is  the  same  hewer  of  wood  and  drawer  of 
water,  the  same  abject  slave  that  he  was  previous  to 
Ismail's  reign,  he  is  really  much  better  oS  than  before,  bad 


66 


THE  FELLAlt  AND  HIS  3iAST£.R, 


as  his  lot  still  is.  It  must  be  remembered  that  it  took 
Europe  many  centuries  to  rise  from  a  semi-barbaric  condi- 
tion, »o  far  as  the  masses  of  the  people  were  concerned.  It 
was  not  to  be  expected  that  Ismail  should  have  had  the 
best  government  in  the  world.  Visitors  who  lounged  at 
their  hotels  in  Alexandria  and  Cairo  were  shocked  when 
they  journeyed  on  the  Nile  to  find  that  the  people  were  not 
so  enlightened  as  the  shopkeepers  about  Cairo,  forgetting 
that  only  a  few  years  ago  they  were  all  but  savages. 
Straightway  a  tale  of  woe  was  unfolded,  and  newspaper 
articles,  letters,  and  books  were  written  for  the  humane  to 
shudder  over.  Tliose  whose  experience  of  the  country 
covers  a  decade  or  two  can  see  great  change*  for  the  bet- 
ter ;  and  when  wc  remember  that  Ismail  forced  civilization 
upon  Egypt  quite  as  far  as  it  was  possible  to  do  so  without 
creating  a  destructive  revolution,  it  cannot  be  denied  or 
doubted  that  he  was  a  great  reformer  and  benefactor.  On 
the  other  hand,  it  is  due  to  truth  to  admit  the  folly  and 
wrong  of  Ismail's  lavish  outlay  upon  palaces  and  dinners, 
his  waste  of  great  sums  on  his  harems  and  their  gardens, 
his  huge  expenditure  for  iron-clads  in  the  foolish  hope  of 
building  up  a  navy,  and  his  boundless  extravagance  in 
entertaining  the  world  at  the  opening  of  the  Sucx  Canal. 
The  leeches  who  wantonly  sucked  the  blood  of  the  fellah- 
een, however,  were  the  Sultan  and  the  idlers  .ibout  him. 
It  is  necessary  to  mention  another  great  item  of  expend!* 
turc.  This  was  the  paying  of  hotel  bills  and  the  cost  of 
steamboat  excursions  up  the  Nile  for  innumerable  princes 
and  other  dignitaries.  In  visiting  censure  upon  the  head 
of  Ismail  for  this  last  form  of  extravagance,  however,  it  is 
necessary  to  remember  the  circumstances  in  which  he  was 
placed.  His  Oriental  training  had  taught  him  that  the 
oflering  of  such  hospitality  was  obligatory  upon  him,  and 
when  he  offered  it  the  visiting  kings,  princes,  and  dignita- 
ries eagerly  accepted  it.  Ismail  believed,  too,  that  in  ex- 
tending bis  splendid  hospitality  to  foreign  potentates  and 


TUB  FBLLAir  AKD  UlS  MASTER. 


67 


their  representatives  he  was  making  his  country  attractive 
and  winning  powerful  friends  for  himself  on  a  throne  which 
he  knew  was  coveted,  tlis  hope  that  these  his  gueat*.  who 
so  gladly  and  greedily  fared  sumptuously  at  his  expense, 
would  give  a  thought  to  his  welfare  after  the  feasting  was 
done,  was  founded  in  a  now  obvious,  though  pardonable, 
delusion.  He  was  repeatedly  assured  that  the  JncrciLte  in 
productions  and  the  rise  in  the  value  of  lands  would  more 
than  balance  all  indebtedness.  The  investment  of  his  enor- 
mous private  fortune  in  landed  estates,  together  with  the 
extensive  purchase  of  machinery  and  implements  of  agri- 
culture, plainly  show  the  confidence  he  had  in  the  schemes 
into  which  he  was  persuaded.  Disaster  to  the  finances  of 
the  country  and  the  ruin  of  his  own  fortune  were  the  result. 
Neither  the  state  lre;i*ury  nor  the  Khedive  personally  was 
able  to  meet  even  the  interest  on  the  immense  loans  con- 
tracted by  them,  and  creditors  at  once  became  clamorous. 

The  Egyptian  learns  rapidly,  languages  especially,  but 
never  goes  deeply  into  anything.  He  displays  some  apti- 
tude for  mathematics,  but  rarely  sufficient  to  enable  him  to 
apply  his  knowledge  to  practical  affairs.  This  is  obviously 
true  of  the  Arab  officers,  even  when  educated  in  the  Egyp- 
tian military  schools  or  in  Europe.  The  reader  is  probably 
aware  that  the  Mahometan  religion  is  largely  responsible- 
for  this  lack  of  intellectual  stamina.  The  Koran  is  the 
Moslem's  measure  for  all  allowable  science,  literature,  and 
art,  and  whatever  oversteps  its  sacred  metes  and  bounds  is 
impious,  The  greater  the  religious  sincerity  the  more 
stunted  is  the  intellectual  growth  of  the  Mussulman,  Thfr 
precepts  of  the  Koran  forni  his  character  and  shape  his  des- 
tiny. It  penetrates  every  detail  of  his  daily  life,  and  rules 
even  his  most  intimate  domestic  relations.  It  makes  the 
yoke  of  the  most  crushing  despotism  the  will  of  God. 
Even  trades  and  professions  arc  under  its  control.  It  is 
primarily  responsible  for  the  degradation  of  woman  to  the 
position  of  a  to/  and  a  slave.     Everywhere  in  Egypt  and 


I 
I 


68 


THE  PELLAIt  AND  It/S  MASTER. 


the  Turkish  possessions  the  harem  is  filled  with  women,  the 
property  of  one  man  who  controls  it.  Ismail  abolished 
slavcr>'  and  strove  strenuously  to  enforce  the  law.  but  he 
was  impotent  to  vanquish  a  habit  so  deeply  rooted  in  tiadi- 
tlon  and  the  faith.  Reforms  may  be  attempted,  and  par- 
tial  and  temporary  success  attend  the  effort ;  but  there 
never  can  be  any  lasting  advance  in  education,  morals,  or 
government  without  a  radical  change  in  the  religion  of  the 
East.  Slavery  in  the  household  is  the  same  to-day  that  it 
h.is  been  for  centuries.  Though  outside  of  the  harem 
Umail  succeeded  in  abolishing  it,  he  did  not  dare  push  the 
reform  to  its  fullest  extent.  It  was  said  he  proposed  to 
open  the  harem  doors.  1  believe  it :  but  he  was  confronted 
by  the  stern  protest  of  the  leading  men  of  his  religion. 
Though  a  Mahometan  despot,  it  is  but  justice  to  say  that 
he  struck  at  numerous  time>honorcd  customs,  and  endeav- 
ored to  elevate  his  people  in  spite  of  themselves.  But  the 
task  was  beyond  hi»  stren^^th.  The  Egyptian  race  will  con- 
ttnue  to  langui.sh  under  the  iron  heel  of  tlie  so-called  Islam, 
much  of  it  really  in  contradiction  to  the  Koran,  until  some 
Arab  Luther  shall  arise  to  strike  off  their  fetters.  They 
have  the  old  Israclitish  idea  that  they  are  the '*  chosen  of 
God."  and  intrench  themselves  in  their  besotted  ignorance 
against  every  form  of  progress  as  something  contrary  to 
Allah's  command.  Their  daily  prayer  is,  "  O  God,  assist 
the  forces  of  the  Moslems  and  the  armies  of  the  Unitarians. 
O  God,  frustrate  the  infidels  and  the  poljtheists,  thine 
enemies,  the  enemies  of  thy  religion.  O  God,  invest  their 
banners  and  ruin  their  habitations,  .ind  give  them  and  their 
wealth  as  buoty  to  the  Moslems!"  In  their  daily  lesson 
to  their  children  they  teach  them  to  say,  ""  O  God,  destroy 
>Che  infidel  and  the  polytheist,  thine  enemies,  the  enemies 
of  thy  religion.  O  God,  make  their  children  orphans,  and 
defile  their  abodes,  and  cause  their  feet  to  slip,  and  give 
them  and  their  families  and  their  household  and  their 
women,  their  children  and  their  relations  by  marriage,  and 


THE  FELLAH  A.VD  HIS  MASTER. 


«9 


their  brothers  and  their  friends,  and  their  poR.4Cssions  and 
their  wealth,  and  their  race  and  their  lands,  as  booty  to  the 
Moslems,  O  Lord  of  the  beings  of  the  whole  world." 

It  is  no  wonder  that  these  people  are  ignorant  and  super- 
stitious, and  arc  carried  away  by  the  pride  of  religion,  when 
the  same  barbarous  lesson  is  taught  that  led  their  ancestors 
to  rapine  and  plunder,  and  is  the  doctrine  implanted  in  the 
mind  of  the  present  generation.  Under  the  strong  govern- 
ment of  Ismail,  Christians  were  treated  with  apparent  cor- 
diality, .tnd  there  were  many  evidences  of  toleration  among 
numbers  of  the  people.  They  often  said:  "  Of  what  use 
to  convert  a  thousand  infidels?  Would  it  increase  the 
number  of  the  Faithful  ?  By  no  means  :  the  number  of 
the  Faithful  is  decreed  by  God,  and  no  act  of  man  can 
increase  or  diminish  it,"  As  a  rule,  however,  in  his  heart 
the  Moslem  contemns  a  Christian,  and,  strong  in  his  belief, 
is  proof  f^inst  proselyting.  It  matters  not  whether  he 
observes  or  neglects  his  own  religion,  he  is  equally  fanatical 
in  despising  all  others.  The  more  elevated  his  position, 
the  bitterer  is  his  contempt  for  all  others.  I  have  never 
met  with  a  .tingle  Mussulman  who  has  left  his  faith  or  who 
ever  proclaimed  himself  an  unbeliever.  While  many  make 
no  outward  show,  thousands  are  very  strict  in  the  observ- 
ance of  their  religion's  rules.  They  never  squander  their 
devotions  in  private,  but  pray  most  demonstratively  in 
public,  "to  be  seen  of  men"  and  esteemed  as  true  be* 
Itevers,  This  public  parade  is  considered  highly  praise- 
worthy. Many  of  their  religious  leaders  value  that  and 
nothing  else.  Their  profession  relieves  them  from  many 
burdens,  and  they  work  themselves  into  feigned  ecstasies, 
professing  to  rely  solely  upon  Allah  for  the  future.  To 
judge  the  whole  people  by  this  class,  one  would  infer  that 
they  were  all  governed  by  unmitigated  fatalism.  But  my 
acquaintance  with  the  Eastern  people  in  their  evcry-day  life 
justifies  me  in  saying  that  if  it  ever  was  a  controlling  prin- 
ciple, they  have  greatly  changed.     I  never  knew  one  pray- 


TO 


THE  FBLLA/f  AlfD  WIS  ifASTEX. 


ing,  or  otherwise  engaged,  who  did  not  keep  a  sharp  look- 
out for  danger ;  or  who,  if  interrupted  in  hb  prayer  or  in  his 
meditations  on  nothing,  did  not  curse  the  person  interrupt- 
Ing  him  and  all  his  relations  for  generations,  and  then  take 
good  care  to  get  out  of  the  way  as  fast  as  possible.  1  have 
never  known  a  single  instance  where  they  suffered  bodily 
harm  rather  than  forego  their  prayer. 

I  knew  an  officer  in  the  Egyptian  army  who,  1  believe, 
for  nearly  eight  years  never  failed  to  fulfil  all  the  obliga- 
tlons  of  his  religion,  which  was  an  immense  ordeal,  besides 
attending  strictly  to  all  his  duties  as  a  man  and  an  ofliicer. 
He  made  the  necessary  ablutions  five  times  a  day.  When 
not  employed,  he  was  mumbling  a  prayer  or  a  chapter  of 
the  Koran.  If  there  ever  was  a  true  Mahometan,  he  was 
one.  Nevertheless,  I  have  seen  him  get  out  of  danger  in 
the  midst  of  the  most  earnest  prayer,  and  have  heard  him 
congratulate  himself  heartily  upon  his  luck  in  doing  it, 
giving  Allah,  of  course,  credit  for  saving  him.  He  has 
often  intcmiptcd  his  prayer  to  give  me  information  he 
knew  I  wanted,  and  has  then  fallen  to  praying  again. 
Mahometans  have  an  idea  that  going  to  Mecca  and 
Medina  h:is  a  good  deal  to  do  with  saving  their  souls. 
Though  a  Christian,  I  obtained  for  my  Arab  friend  author- 
it}"  to  go  to  the  tomb  of  the  Prophet  and  come  back  a 
Hadji.  It  seemed  to  mc  that  the  pilgrimage  weakened  his 
ejaculatory  vigor.  He  thought  his  seat  in  Paradise  safe,  so 
it  was  no  longtr  nece»sar>'  to  demonstrate  before  infidels 
and  unbelievers.  It  is  true  I  have  seen  large  bodies  of 
soldiers  suffer  massacre  when  strong  enough  to  defend 
themselves  and  punish  their  enemies,  but  this  ]  attribute  to 
ihc  cowardice  of  their  officers,  who  fled  at  the  approach  of 
danger  and  left  their  men,  accustomed  to  follow  them 
blindly,  to  the  mercy  of  the  foe.  When  dealing  with  the 
Abyssinian  war,  however,  1  shall  have  to  recount  instances 
where,  with  death  staring  them  in  the  face,  their  fatalism 
was  unmistakable. 


TU£  FELLAH  AND  RtS  MASTEK. 


;> 


It  is  impossible  to  portray  the  condition  of  Mahometan 
countries  better  than  in  the  few  simple  words  of  one  of  the 
ablest  and  most  obscrvini;  of  our  American  travellers  in  the 
East.  "  Wherever  that  religion  exists,  there  follow  inevi- 
table despotism  and  slavery,  by  which  it  crushes  man,  as  by 
its  polygamy  and  organized  licentiousness  it  degrades  and 
crushes  woman.  Polygamy,  despotism,  and  slavery  form 
the  trinity  of  woes  which  Mahometanism  has  caused  to 
weigh  for  ages  like  a  nightm^ire  upon  [he  whole  Eastern 
world."  * 

So  immense  a  fabric,  founded  upon  superstition  and 
cemented  by  ages,  cannot,  as  the  writer  says,  pass  away  in  a 
day.  I  have  already  stated  my  conviction  that  the  iron 
crust  is  broken  and  the  "  fervid  heat"  is  burning  into  the 
heart  of  Islam.  "  The  combined  influence  of  civilization 
and  Christianity"  is  slowly  but  surely  sapping  the  founda- 
tions of  Mahometanism.  and  the  star  which  shone  so 
brightly  iSoo  years  ago  is,  I  think,  destined  to  shed  its 
light  once  ^ain  in  the  East  where  it  rose. 


•  Rev.  Dr,  Field. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


ISMAIL   PACIIA. 


Itinall,  (h«  •HcccMOr  o(  Said  PbcIib— Grot  tejolctnft  M  hiSKCauIm— 
Wetttlh  and  encrnv  of  thli  prinM — How  ihc  Suox  C&nftl  came  lo  be  bnilt 
— Why  Pharaoh  Necho  In  ancient  Egypt  and  Hehemei  All  io  modeto 
Egypt  refused  lo  permit  aucb  a  canal  lo  be  col— EQeci*  of  the  Suei 
Canal  complicaiionR  on  Egypt— Itmall'*  counc  toward  Ibe  bondholdera 
— De  LcKscp*  an  able  and  shrcod  Bchraier — Inntirs  policy  in  the  gftl- 
etnmenl  of  Egypt— Oucription  d(  the  man— His  attempts  at  reform. 

Said  Pacha  assumed  the  viceroyalty  of  Egypt  amid  the 
rejoicings  of  hi»  people.  They  had  been  crushed  under  the 
cruel  and  imbecile  Abbas  Pacha,  his  nephew,  SaVd  was  in 
the  vigor  of  manhood  and  full  of  confidence.  He  projected 
many  grand  schemes,  but  few  of  which  were  consummated 
during  his  reign  of  ten  years.  (Ic  died  friendless  and 
insolvent.  Though  vastly  superior  to  his  predecessor  in 
personal  qualities,  still  his  government  was  a  failure  and 
bankrupted  the  country.  Sanguine  ot  something  better, 
the  Egyptian  people  welcomed  Ismail  Pacha  to  the  vice- 
regal throne  with  rejoicings  greater  than  had  welcomed  any 
previous  ruler. 

They  knew  that  he  had  been  schooled  under  the  best  in- 
structors of  the  day,  that  he  was  a  planter  and  merchant 
prince,  and  one  of  the  most  accomplished  Egyptians  who 
had  ever  been  calleil  to  rule  over  them.  They  were  aware 
that  while  those  nearest  the  throne  were  toying  away  their 
time  in  the  salons  of  Paris,  or  hunting  the  gazelle  upon  the 
deserts  of  Africa,  he  was  a  tiller  of  the  soil,  who,  avoiding 
the  fascinations  and  extntvagances  of  the  court  of  Said, 
had    devoted    himself    to    cultivating    cotton    and   cane. 


ISMAIL  PACUA. 


73 


Si>ending  his  surplus  money  while  a  prince  in  beautifying 
Egypt  with  costly  buildings  and  palaces,  for  which  he  had 
always  a  weakness,  he  gave  early  promise  of  beneficence 
and  prt^ress.  The  people,  seeing  for  the  first  time  a  man 
of  sense  and  a  successful  working  prince  at  the  head  of 
their  government,  seemed  to  have  great  reason  for  cordially 
welcoming  the  new  ruler. 

Ismail  ascended  the  throne  during  the  time  of  the  Civil 
War  in  America,  and  early  perceiving  from  the  vast  pro- 
portions of  the  struggle  that  cotton-growing,  in  which  he 
was  so  successful,  would  receive  a  severe  check  in  the 
United  States,  turned  his  energies  and  great  capital  to  its 
more  extensive  culture.  From  this  and  the  cultivation  of 
cane  he  added  enormously  to  his  already  colossal  fortune. 
Satd  having  already  pledged  Eg>'pt  to  the  cutting  of  the 
Suez  Canal,  it  remained  for  Ismail  to  redeem  the  pledge. 
A  brief  historical  sketch  of  this  great  work  is  in  place  here. 
Necho.  that  wise  old  Pharaoh  who  lived  6cxj  years  before 
the  Christian  era,  connected  the  Bitter  Lakes  and  Lake 
Timsah  on  the  Isthmus  of  Suez,  midway  between  the  Red 
Sea  and  the  Mediterranean,  by  a  canal  with  the  Nile. 
Similar  canals  existed  from  a  very  early  period  contiguous 
to  it  and  running  through  what  is  now  called  the  Land  of 
Goshen.  By  some  convulsion  of  nature,  or  possibly  the 
neglect  of  the  government,  these  works  entirely  disap> 
peared,  the  lakes  dried  up,  the  Land  of  Goshen  became  an 
arid  waste,  and  much  of  it  remains  f^o  to  this  day.  During 
his  reign  Ismail  constructed  a  broad,  deep  canal  connecting 
the  Suez  Canal  in  a  direct  line  from  Ismailia  with  the  Nile, 
and  these  barren  wastes  are  beginning  to  bloom  with  vege- 
tation, while  trade  and  travel  begin  again  to  make  the  land 
of  the  Israelites  look  as  it  did  in  the  olden  time.  The  Pha- 
raoh  of  the  day  of  which  we  speak  was  urged  to  connect  the 
two  seas,  but  his  country  having  been  marvellously  blessed 
for  uncounted  centuries  with  a  dense  and  thriving  popula- 
tion, he  concluded  that  they  could  only  lose  by  too  daring 


\ 


I 


74 


ISMAIL  PACUA. 


attempts  at  prepress.  It  was  held  witli  some  reason  that 
other  nations  would  be  inevitably  precipitated  upon  the 
country  in  their  anxiety  for  the  commerce  of  the  East,  and 
that  £g>'pt  would  be  swallowed  up  in  the  whirlpool  of 
ambitious  competition.  Policy  at  tlut  time  prevented  the 
connection  of  the  two  seas.  Two  thousand  years  aftcr«'ard 
history  repeated  itself.  Mchcmct  Ali.  the  founder  of  the 
present  dynasty,  an  untutored  fisherman,  but  a  man  of  ex- 
traordinary sense,  was  harried  by  speculators  and  consuls- 
j;eneral  for  the  concession  of  men  and  money  to  connect 
the  seas.  Un.iware  that  a  remote  predecessor  had  decided 
against  it,  the  new  I'haraoh  gave  nearly  the  same  reasons 
for  steadily  rejecting  their  overtures,  incredulous  of  the 
Lgreat  benefit  to  Egj'pt  so  generously  promised.  Many 
'years  elapsed,  and  Said,  his  son,  became  Viceroy.  When 
a  prince  he  had  been  the  friend  of  Dc  Lcsscps,  and  he  now 
lent  his  car  to  the  able  and  wily  Frenchman.  Lcsscps  suc> 
feded  in  despite  of  England,  for  England  steadily  opposed 
the  project  with  all  her  influence.  Time  rolled  on,  money 
failed,  and  the  great  work  was  lingering  when  Ismail  Pacha 
became  Khedive.  Though  he  knew  it  would  be  fatal  to 
the  immediate  interests  of  his  countr>'  by  taking  the  great 
Indian  travel  directly  through  the  canal  and  making  Egypt 
simply  a  toll-gate  for  that  and  its  commerce,  yet  he  believed 
that  in  the  distant  future  it  would  not  only  add  lustre  to  his 
name,  but  confer  great  benefits  upon  Egypt,  The  conces- 
sion had  been  granted,  and  sooner  or  later  the  great  work 
must  be  completed  ;  therefore  it  was  worse  than  folly  to 
stop  its  progress,  and  through  him,  his  money,  and  his 
people,  the  Suex  Canal  was  opened  to  tlic  nations  of  the 
world.  The  downfall  of  his  great  friend  and  supporter, 
lapoleon  III.,  and  the  ill-fortune  of  France  in  her  war  with 
'Germany,  left  him  to  the  crafty  policy  of  England.  The 
money-lenders  of  France,  whose  original  enormous  loans  to 
Egypt  had  to  be  buoyed  up  to  prevent  a  total  collapse,  saw 
bankruptcy  staring  them  in  the  face,  and  prudently  called 


ISMAIL  PACHA. 


upon  England,  whose  people  were  equally  interested  in  the 
bonds,  to  help  them  out  of  the  difficulty.  Waddington, 
liav!n<;  succeeded  in  his  schemes  for  temporary  5ccurit>', 
was  no  doubt  pleased  to  let  England  take  the  lion's  share 
of  influence  and  sijoils  without  protest.  Poor  Egypt  was 
the  victim  of  wanton  cupidity,  and  the  Khedive  was  forced 
to  a  compromise,  which  included  his  own  abdication.  Bis- 
marck's "  kick  at  the  dead  lion"  in  this  affair  is,  perhaps, 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  diplomatic  freaks  of  the  far- 
seeing  Chancellor. 

The  results  but  too  plainly  justify  the  wonderful  previ- 
sion of  the  "  grim  old  soldier,"  Mehcmct  Ali,  when  pointing: 
out  to  his  successors  their  true  policj-.  It  would  have  been 
well  had  they  been  guided  by  him  In  this  and  in  other  vital 
matters,  or  at  least  have  exacted  some  guarantee  of  the 
great  powers  for  their  security.  That  the  work  was  inevit. 
able  there  Is  nn  doubt.  I»mail  understood  this,  and,  think- 
ing that  he  had  gone  far  enough  in  engrafting  modern  ideas 
on  his  policy  to  insure  him  against  outrage,  entered  heartily 
into  the  scheme  for  the  completion  of  the  canal.  Subse- 
quent events  handed  him  over,  bound  hand  and  foot,  to 
the  designing  Western  powers.  The  policy  denounced  by 
Mehemet  Ali  led  to  his  ruin.  It  may  suit  the  bondholders 
to  say  that  Ismail  clung  to  the  principles  of  the  founder  of 
his  dynasty,  which  worked  well  so  long  as  there  was  a  stern 
despot  to  apply  them  ;  that  subsequently  all  had  changed, 
and  that  Ismail  had  neither  the  ability  nor  the  strength  of 
character  to  carry  out  a  policy  suited  to  the  requirements 
of  the  times.  The  fact  is,  that  Egypt  ran  the  risk  that  is 
always  incurred  by  a  weak  power  over  whose  inheritance 
two  stronger  powers  arc  ready  to  come  to  blows.  Ismail 
attempted  the  impossible  task  of  modernizing  everything 
in  Egypt  in  thirteen  years.  In  tlits  endeavor  the  state  rev- 
enues and  his  own  private  fortune  became  involved  beyond 
hope.  The  Rothschilds  now  enjoy  millions,  the  wreck  of 
his  estates,  and  Englishmen  boast  of  the  splendid  invent- 


I 


m 


7« 


ISMAIL  PACHA. 


ment  Disraeli  made  in  buying  the  Sues  Canal  bonds  for 
which  Egypt  had  given  her  security. 

Ismail  may  well  regret  that  his  good  sense  was  blinded 
by  his  ambition,  and  that  he  too,  like  Said  Pacha,  listened 
to  the  fatal  eloquence  of  Dc  Lesseps.  The  latter  was  only 
ton  willing,  as  President  of  the  1878  Commission,  to  turn 
upon  his  victim  after  fattening  on  the  spoils  wrung  from 
Ismail's  credulity.  Situated  as  Egypt  is.  in  the  north-east 
angle  of  Africa,  which  may  be  said  to  divide  Europe  and 
Asia  like  a  wedge,  nothing  can  happen  in  cither  without 
being  felt  in  Egypt.  Though  ever  prominent  as  the  highway 
to  the  East,  this  great  route  has  become  more  so  now  that 
the  whole  of  Europe's  commerce  with  the  Indies  is  carried 
on  through  the  canal.  The  Arab  prefers  despotism  at  the 
hands  of  one  of  his  own  faith  to  a  liberal  government  at  the 
hands  of  the  foreigner.  Ismail  understood  this  h.atred  of 
European  interference,  and  invited  Americans  to  assist  him 
in  organising  his  army.  Politically  they  represented  noth- 
ing, and  were  acceptable  to  his  people.  He  also  appointed 
Arabs  to  high  ofticial  position,  .ind  desired  that  the  people 
5hould  be  heard  through  the  Notables.  This  w;ls  a  novelty. 
They  had  never  before  questioned  their  rulers,  .ind  nobody 
was  anxiousto  "  bell  the  cat,"  Bcforcvoting.  theyinquircd 
which  way  the  government  leaned,  and  then  they  all  went 
in  a  body  that  way.  Their  recent  outbreak  did  not  arise 
from  a  wish  to  repudiate  their  enormous  debt.  They  were 
willing  that  their  laborious  people  and  rich  lands  should 
pay  it.  But  young  and  progressive  Egypt  had  been  ele- 
vated in  the  last  decade  and  made  to  feel  that,  however  just 
and  honest  their  present  Khedive  might  be.  still  his  govern- 
ment under  the  new  arrangements  made  with  the  bond- 
holders was  entirely  in  the  hands  of  those  appointed  to  suit 
the  interests  of  their  European  creditors.  The  instincts 
which  Ismail  had  stimulated  by  his  policy  of  respect  for  his 
people  were  offended  by  the  submission  of  Tewfik  to  Euro- 
pean dictation. 


ISMAIL   PACHA. 


77 


Ismail  Pacha  was  Khedive  of  Egypt  during  my  service. 
He  was  the  first  to  hold  that  difinity.  The  sum  which  pur. 
chased  this  rank  and  title  from  the  Sultan  was  very  large. 
He  is  past  the  meridian  of  life,  under  medium  height, 
but  compactly  built.  He  has  dark  brown  hair  and  mus- 
tache, a  swarthy  skin  and  keen  black  eyes,  whose  penetrat- 
ing glances  shoot  from  under  half-closed  lids.  Habitual 
ease  of  manner  and  slowness  of  speech  give  him  the  air  of 
great  self-possession.  He  impresses  every  one  as  a  man  of 
strong  convictions  and  extensive  observation. 

The  following  reflections  on  Ismail  in  his  political  and 
social  relations  were  written  when  he  was  one  of  the  most 
notable  men  of  his  day,  and  the  writer  was  fresh  from  con- 
tact with  him  in  the  relations  of  a  general  of  high  rank  to 
his  commander-in-chief : 

When  in  repose  and  his  eye  is  partly  shut,  no  man  has  a 
more  sphinx-like  expression  ;  but  the  strongly-marked  face 
conceals  behind  it  constant  thought  and  indicates  that  the 
-cares  of  state  weigh  heavily  upon  him.  In  his  hours  of 
ease  his  conversation  is  very  agreeable.  Speaking  French 
slowly  and  deliberately,  with  a  finely  modulated  voice  and 
a  countenance  lit  up  with  the  characteristic  smile  of  his 
family,  he  gives  one  the  impression  that  he  would  make  a 
good  boon  companion.  Though  in  detailing  the  events  of 
his  reign  I  shall  have  to  spe.ik  of  an  occurrence  whicli  will 
lead  many  to  think  him  cruel,  yet,  having  in  my  long 
acquaintance  witnessed  so  much  that  was  humane  in  his 
character  and  life,  my  opinion  is  that  he  was  far  from  being 
an  unamiable  man  or  sovereign.  His  lai^e  family  and  the 
^rcat  numbers  of  people  who  have  served  under  him  bear 
willing  testimony  to  his  kindly  heart.  After  his  accession, 
when  all  the  terrible  punishments  and  confiscations  of  his 
predecessors  had  ccised,  numerous  instances  of  arbitrary 
and  unjust  outrage  of  which  I  was  informed  came  to  his 
knowledge,  and  his  interference  was  immediate.  The  use 
of  the  kourbash  without  the  authority  of  law  was  severely 


I 
I 


78 


ISMAIL  PACHA. 


punished.  He  made  earnest  endeavors  to  abolish  slaveiy 
in  his  dominions,  and  notwithstanding  statements  to  the 
contrarj',  he  was  anxious  to  do  this  in  the  harems  them- 
selves, where  every  woman  is  a  slave.  One  of  his  means  to 
that  end  was  the  education  of  women.     If  there  was  nolh- 

Mng  else  to  be  placed  to  his  credit,  he  has  erected  (or  him- 
self, in  the  education  of  women  and  in  the  abolition  of 
slavery,  a  monument  which  will  endure  after  all  the  errors 
of  his  administration  have  faded  out  of  history. 

The  forcing  of  a  parliament  upon  an  unwilling  people 
who  lived  in  a  dreamy  philosophy  and  preferred  the  iron 
band  of  one  man,  is  another  evidence  of  the  enlightened 
humanity  of  Ismail.  He  was  one  of  those  who  believed 
that  no  rciil  ,-idvance  can  be  made  in  the  Arab  race  until 
the  outcrop  of  Islam's  wrongs  is  corrected,  none  of  them 
being  greater  than  the  violation  of  naturt.-  in  depriving 
woman  of  her  legitimate  sphere  of  action  and  influence. 

In  its  interior  economy  the  harem  of  the  Khedive  and 
his  numerous  family,  .ind  the  h.irein3  of  those  among  the 
lighcr  dignitaries  whose  association   they   claim,  have   in 

^thcir  approximation  to  Western  custom  undctgone  vast 
changes.  The  substitution  of  European  dress  for  the  Ori- 
ental may  not  be  a  gain  in  picturesqucncss,  but  it  is  a  long 
stride  in  the  direction  of  adopting  modern  customs.  The 
sitting  on  chairs  and  on  the  divan,  which  their  new  costume 
compels,  is  a   great    innovation  upon  the  time-honored 

^'Vquat,  though  it  is  said,  when  the  change  took  place,  the 
ladies  found  it  difficult  to  dispose  of  their  tiny  feet,  it  being 
convenient  to  place  one  on  the  chair  and  leave  the  other 
dangling.  When  crinoline  was  in  fashion,  this  graceful 
position  retained  some  of  the  quaint  picturesqueness  of 
their  discarded  habits. ' 

Ladies  of  rank  now  sit  at  a  modern  table  with  knives  and 
forks  and  eat  like  Europeans,  instead  of  dipping  the  fingcis 
into  their  dishes,  as  was  the  case  a  few  years  ago.  Instead 
of  lying  on  divans  and  sleeping  on  the  floor,  putting  every> 


ISMAIL   PACHA. 


79 


thin^  into  great  leather  \>3%s  aiid  hiding  these  in  closets,  or 
stringing  thctr  fine  dresses  on  cords  hung  across  their 
chanibcni,  modern  inventions  have  been  introduced  ;  even 
trunks  and  bureaus  are  now  in  common  use.  The  ladies 
now  ride  out  in  carriages  openly  and  with  the  thinnest 
passible  veils.  They  are  accompanied  ns  formerly  by  their 
sable  guardians,  but  tlic  latter  are  now  more  for  show  than 
for  use.  While  itjs  etiquette  not  to  look  at  these  ladies  of 
the  harem,  they  look  at  the  stranger  as  though  they  courted 
the  furtive  glance  of  admiration.  When  it  is  said  that  a 
high  princess  walked  unveiled  at  the  springs  near  Cairo,  we 
may  easily  believe  that  the  Egyptian  women  are  beginning 
to  feci  their  freedom.  It  is  not  to  be  understood,  however, 
that  the  women  have  generally  favored  this  change  from 
Oriental  to  European  customs.  Indeed,  its  most  violent 
opponents  have  been  found  among  them,  .and  so  far  from 
envying  they  have  always  pitied  their  Western  sisters. 

But  the  elevation  of  woman  by  education  has  given 
many  Egyptian  ladies  a  proper  idea  of  their  dignity,  and 
customs  and  superstitions  which  conflict  witli  it  are  con- 
temned by  this  new  generation.  Though  the  class  is  not 
numerous,  still  Iheir  influence  is  felt,  and  the  close  observer 
can  see  that  the  worst  features  of  Mahomctanism  are 
being  seriously  shaken.  This  fact  was  fully  appreciated  by 
Ismail,  and  it  was  his  endeavor  in  the  refinement  of  women 
to  elevate  the  family,  educate  the  soiu  by  enlightened 
mothers,  and  prepare  Egypt  for  a  better  future  by  a  means 
which  thus  went  to  the  very  root  of  things. 


I 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

CAIRO. 

hansn  made  in  the  city  durinK  the  lut  iwcniy  ycftn— lu  prettai  beftuiKul 
and  European  ujiccl — Pi^iBC  due  to  Ismiul  Pachu — Sketch  ol  Cairo- 
Opera  and  [heaire — Chflsllitn  schooU  and  missions— Chan (-e  in  [lie 
babEu  of  Mahometan  ladies  — Visit  to  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops^ The 
cli(r;l]  to  ila  top— Theory  lunching  the  purpose  of  iu  builders — Viens  of 
ilif[erentnrcb*olo)(isti— The  Sphinx  and  the  Pyramid  of  Chephren— The 
Pyramids  of  SaVlcata  and  the  tunnel  ol  the  Sacred  Bulls— Morleltc  Bey's 
wonderful  discovery  of  an  unopened  tomb— The  (tatue  of  the  high 
pricat  "  Ti  " — Palntlnc*  delineating  domestic  and  «vefy-day  scenes  of 
county  lilc— The  uncicnt  city  o(  On  or  H  el iopolls— Tombs  of  the  early 
Caliphs— Ceremony  of  starling  on  the  Mecca  pilKrlmoge — Utter  dnuvC' 
lion  of  IlellopolJs, 

I  ARRIVED  at  Cairo  on  my  second  visit  in  January-,  1S70. 
after  an  absence  of  some  years,  in  that  most  delightful  of 
sll  season:!,  unlike  the  winter  of  any  other  climate,  when 
everything  is  green  and  beautiful,  the  air  soft  and  balmy. 
The  train  was  filled  with  representatives  of  the  two  great 
travelling  nations  of  the  world,  America  and  England. 
The  plains  were  golden  with  rich  harvests  and  dotted  with 
elegant  villas,  embowered  in  roses,  the  grounds  of  which 
were  adorned  with  luxuriant  and  wclUcultivatcd  Icbbck  and 
acacia  trees.  On  one  side,  in  full  view,  stood  the  Mokut« 
turn  hills,  the  citadel  on  thetr  slope,  with  the  tall  minarets 
of  the  mosque  of  Mchemet  Ali  peering  far  above  and  over- 
looking in  their  height  the  400  mosques  in  the  heart  of  the 
curious  old  city  beneath.  It  was  upon  entering  the  .-Vrab 
city  that  we  were  pleased  to  find  untouched  the  narrow  and 
crooked  streets  teeming  with  people,  and  its  little  shops, 
with  their  picturesquely  dressed  crowds  of  customers,  as  in 


CAI/tO. 


81 


the  olden  time.  But,  leaving  these  familiar  scenes,  one 
is  imprcLsed  by  the  stately  beauty  of  the  new  city  im- 
mediately aioriRsidc  of  it  with  its  comfortable  hotels  and 
commodious  mansions,  its  broad  avenues  tastefully  planted 
with  costly  shade  trees,  and  skirted  by  modem  cottages 
surrounded  by  rich  parterres  of  flowers,  shrubs,  and  trees. 
These  interesting  objects  arc  evidences  that  in  a  few  years 
the  strong  hand  of  Ismail  had  called  into  existence,  as  if  by 
maffic,  3  new  city.  The  spectacle  of  two  distinct  cities  in 
■one.  each  filled  with  a  different  people,  unlike  in  race,  cus- 
toms, and  religion,  is  very  impressive.  Nothing  is  more 
suggestive  than  the  loftj'  minarets  crowned  by  the  crescent, 
the  emblem  of  the  Mahometan  faith,  and  near  by  the 
steeple  of  the  Christian  church  surmounted  by  the  cross. 
This  evidence  of  toleration  inclines  one  to  the  belief  that 
-civilization  has  at  last  brought  these  fanatical  people  under 
its  powerful  influence.  The  cry  of  the  mucuzin  calling  the 
faithful  to  prayer  from  the  top  of  the  minaret  is  scarcely 
hushed  before  the  merry  chime  rings  out  from  the  church 
towers  of  the  Christians.  The  wonderful  changes  which 
had  been  wrought  in  this  nncient  city  since  my  first  visit 
suggested  the  idea  of  just  such  work  as  is  credited  to 
Haroun-el-Raschid  in  the  Arabian  Nights.  In  scanning 
these  vast  improvements  the  traveller  asks.  Mow  can  they 
charge  the  author  of  them  with  extravagance  ?  Was  there, 
then,  nothing  to  show  for  the  vast  sums  expended  ?  Why, 
the  new  Cairo  teems  with  splendid  answers  to  this  accusa- 
tion. If  the  man  of  truth  and  sense  will  survey  Egypt  and 
mark  its  advancement  spread  broadcast  to  its  remotest 
boundaries,  he  will  find  more  solid  improvement  wrought 
with  the  revenues  of  the  country  and  with  the  wealth  of 
Ismail's  own  private  purse  than  can  be  shown  for  twice 
the  amount  in  any  other  country  in  the  world.  Out  of  a 
mud-heap  he  has  created  a  splendid  European  city,  and 
filled  it  with  the  advantages  and  attractions  of  civilization. 
This  gigantic  worlc  was  completed  in  a  few  years,  white  tt 


I 

I 
I 


8a 


CAIRO. 


took  centuries  to   build   many   European   cities   of   equal 
size. 

From  the  verandn  of  the  New  Hotel  at  Cairo,  the  cmtp 
d'ail  is  entirely  changed  from  what  it  was  a  few  yean  ago. 
Where  the  hotel  now  stands  and  far  beyond  it  had  been  an 
uncultivated  garden.  In  the  place  of  the  ragged  old  syca- 
mores which  stood  sohic  distance  in  front  and  which  sur- 
rounded a  public  ground,  a  receptacle  for  filih  and  a  haunt 
for  dogs,  with  here  and  there  a  little  drinking- booth  for  the 
low  forci)>n«:r  and  dirty  .-\rab,  now  stands  one  of  the  most 
enchanting  gardens  in  the  East,  with  a  broad  avenue  be- 
tween it  and  the  hotel.  This  garden  is  laid  out  with  beau- 
tiful pebble  walks,  adorned  with  fountains,  and  decked  with 
rare  exotics,  flowers,  and  trees.  There  is  a  silvery  lake  in 
its  centre  with  graceful  swans  to  add  to  its  interest,  boats 
for  the  amusement  of  the  passing  stranger,  and  m.iny  other 
attractions  which  render  it  a  diminutive  Bois  dc  Boulc^e 
to  the  Eg>'ptian  capital.  In  one  of  the  arches  stands  a 
grotto  of  large  proportions  with  subterraneous  passages  and 
chambers.  A  little  to  the  right  of  the  garden,  separated 
from  it  by  a  broad  avenue,  is  a  handsome  opera-house,  where 
for  many  years  there  were  employed  some  of  the  beat  art- 
ists and  most  accomplished  orchestiasin  thcworld.  Ismail, 
educated  in  Paris,  had,  among  other  tastes,  a  fondness 
for  European  opera  and  early  introduced  it  into  his  capital. 
It  was  so  arranged  that  the  ladies  of  his  harem  and  those  of 
the  wealthy  pachas  might  sit  in  their  boxes,  hidden  by  lace 
curtains,  and  enjoy  the  opera  unseen.  Beyond  this  there 
was  a  circus  for  the  rougher  sex  and  a  theatre  for  the  for- 
eigner. It  is  said  that  the  Khedive  wus  no  little  chagrined 
that  the  fair  ladies  of  Egypt,  educated  to  the  slow,  monot- 
onous Asiatic  music,  could  not  appreciate  the  strwns  of 
Kossini,  Verdi,  and  Gounod.  This  accounted  for  the 
numerous  carriages  winding  their  way  to  the  circus,  where 
the  ladies  could  better  appreciate  I'opira  de  I' kippodronu. 

This  did  not,  however,  apply  to  the  young  daughters  of 


CAtKO. 


H 


the  Khedive  and  those  of  many.of  the  high  functionaries, 
for  under  the  auspices  of  Ismail  and  one  of  his  queens,  a 
bevy  of  beautiful  and  accomplished  young  houris  had  come 
upon  the  scene  of  harem  society  during  the  last  twenty 
years  who  had  been  taught  the  requirements  of  scientific 
music.  While  the  more  matured  princesses  were  caged  be- 
hind lace,  his  sweet  and  pietty  daughter  o(  thirteen,  Zanecb, 
for  several  years  took  her  seat  in  a  box  with  her  young 
brother  unveiled,  and  enjoyed  her  cultivated  taste  for  music 
with  as  much  zest  as  any  other  young  girl.  It  was  after- 
ward when  another  year  was  added  to  her  young  life  that, 
much  against  her  will,  the  traditional  veil  wa^  forced  upon 
her,  and  she.  too,  sat  at  the  opera  behind  lace  curtairu,  and 
with  others  of  her  sex  was  compelled  to  undei^o  the  seclu* 
sion  of  the  harem.  This  was  the  beautiful  young  woman 
whose  melancholy  death  and  funeral  at  the  paUice  by  the 
sea  I  have  already  adverted  to. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Ksbikeeyah  Garden  there  is  a 
laige,  well -.arranged,  and  extensive  structure,  erected  by  the 
American  Presbyterian  Mission,  which  has  within  its  \/alls 
a  handsome  church  and  an  extensive  school-house  for  girls 
and  boys,  and  I  cannot  do  better  than  advert  to  the  work 
that  has  been  done  under  the  administration  of  Dr. 
Lansing,  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  philanthropic  foreign 
residents  of  Egypt,  who  is  the  patron  of  this  institution. 
There  has  grown  up  not  only  this  fine  institution,  but  more 
than  twenty  others  under  his  auspices  in  the  villages,  towns, 
and  cities.  Always  amiable  in  social  life,  the  doctor  has 
labored  under  many  difficulties  in  this  field,  assisted  by  a 
number  of  devoted  and  good  men  and  womeri.  The 
Mahometans  and  the  Copt  Christians  in  targe  numbers 
go  to  his  .schools,  but  the  instances  are  rare  where  a  child 
of  the  Prophet  is  ever  converted. 

Great  numbers  of  the  Copts  are,  however,  brought  within 
their  fold.  There  was  scarcely  a  clerk  in  any  department, 
civil  or  militaiy,  in  Egypt  during  the  last  twenty-five  years 


84 


CAIKO. 


who  was  not  educated  in  these  schools,  and  I  have  often 
been  impressed  with  the  great  service  the  rich  who  give  to 
missionaries  in  other  lands  might  effect  in  this  Mahom- 
etan and  Copt  countr)'  by  liberally  supporting  the  doctor. 
I  feci  assured  that  if  they  once  visited  his  church  in  Cairo 
on  Sunday  morning  and  heard  him  discourse  in  the  Arab 
language  to  his  large  audience  of  turbancd  Orientals,  their 
hearts  would  expand  and  the  doctor  would  be  saluted  with 
"  Well  done,  thou  good  and  faithful  servant."  I  will  not 
further  dilate  upon  the  massive  structures  with  their  arcades 
nor  the  broad  streets  which  with  their  shady  trees  add  so 
much  beauty  and  comfort  to  the  city.  One  acquainted  with 
it  can  tell  where  miserable  habitations  have  given  ^vay  to 
the  abode  of  civilized  man,  and  wretchedness  has  been  re- 
placed by  the  palatial  residences  and  business  houses  of 
wealthy  Arabs  and  Levantines.  Escaping  the  eternal  sun  as 
he  walks  under  arcades  and  the  shady  trees  which  line  the 
broad  streets,  he  is  interested  with  the  noisy  throngs  of  ac- 
tive and  intelligent  people  in  pursuit  of  their  various  callings. 
The  traditional  ass  and  riding  camel  are  now  reserved  for 
the  stranger,  and  the  American  and  Englishman  hear  the 
cry  of  the  donkey-boy  when  he  salutes  them  :  "  Here  is 
Yankee  Doodle"  or  *"  John  Bull,"  as  his  shrewd  perception 
of  nationality  bids  him  call  his  be.ist.  The  dainty  wife  and 
daughter  of  Hey  and  Pacha,  instead  of  wrapping  themselves 
up  like  packages  and  straddling  ,in  ass,  are  now  seen  in 
their  lace  caps,  tulle  veils,  and  ample  dresses  of  lavender 
or  saffron  silk,  in  their  handsome  European  carriages,  fol- 
lowed by  their  dark  guardians  on  horseback  in  rich  trap- 
pings. To  add  a  touch  of  romance  to  the  scene,  they  do 
not  hesitate,  when  unobserved  liy  their  s.-ible  nondescripts, 
to  coquette  with  the  handsome  foreigners  as  they  pass 
beneath  the  old  sycamores  in  the  favorite  drive  on  Friday 
to  the  Shiibra  Palace.  Like  thcirWcstcrn  sisters,  they  like 
to  have  their  beautiful  dresses  and  jewels  admired,  when 
only  a  few  years  since  it  was  etiquette  for  all  males  to  turn 


CAIRO. 


«S 


their  backs  on  their  approach.  Neglecting  the  duty  of 
concealing  their  faces,  they  arc  certain  to  be  reminded  of  it 
by  the  thing  of  authority  who  was  in  close  attendance.  I 
well  remember,  on  my  first  visit,  the  picturesque  groups  of 
turbaned  Turks,  Arabs,  and  Copts  in  their  rich  and  parti- 
colored dresses  mounted  on  camels  and  asses,  and  in  the 
distance,  nding  richly  caparisoned  donkeys,  but  wandering 
like  ghosts  through  the  dark  streets,  were  to  be  seen  the 
wives  and  daughters  of  these  dignified  Orientals  muffled  in 
their  habarahs  as  though  they  feared  observation.  Their 
blue  eyes  looked  out  from  under  their  covering  in  timid  and 
startled  amazement  at  a  new  manner  of  man  as  if  they  had 
nc\'cr  before  seen  a  European.  They  have  changed  all 
that,  and  the  traditional  ass  with  his  rich  trappings  for  the 
iliu  is  scarcely  more  than  a  reminiscence  now. 

It  was  my  first  experience  among  these  transformed 
Eastern  people,  and  the  impression  was  vivid.  Returning 
to  see  European  dress  and  vehicles  in  common  use,  it 
seemed  at  first  as  though  Oriental  Cairo  touched  by  the 
hand  of  Ismail  had  lost  some  of  its  time-honored  splendor. 
In  truth,  Cairo  showed  in  former  days  the  glittering  osten- 
tation of  the  favored  few,  which  sadly  contrasted  with  the 
most  squalid  and  repulsive  poverty  of  the  many.  There 
was  that  sort  of  wretchedness  which  made  Egypt  a  pest- 
house,  but  the  improvement  of  the  jieople  and  the  forced 
observance  of  sanitary  precautions  in  the  fourteen  years  of 
the  reign  of  Ismail  had  effaced  many  sad  and  sorrowful 
pictures.  In  all  that  time  Eg>T)t  had  never  been  visilcd  by 
an  epidemic  ;  formerly  the  curse  was  periodical.  No  man 
of  feeling  who  knew  the  past  failed  to  be  gladdened  by  the 
ch-inge  ;  every  such  man  kindly  extended  his  sympathy  to 
that  ruler  who  had  fearlessly  wiped  out  old  customs  and 
landmarks  in  the  interest  of  humanit>' ;  whose  reign  com- 
menced with  heaps  of  mud  houses,  and  closed  with  so  many 
finely  constructed  buildings  and  other  material  improve- 
ments;   who  transformed  Egypt  into  a  civilized  country. 


I 
I 


I 


CAIRO. 


where  the  stranger  was  welcomed,  and  through  which  he 
could  journey  with  as  much  comTort  and  safety  as  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world. 

One  of  the  pleasures  of  a  visit  to  Cairo  was  in  seeing  the 
vast  monumental  ruins  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Among 
the  many  gentlemen  whom  it  gave  me  pleasure  to  meet 
were  Governor  Hoffman  of  New  York  and  General  Ingalls. 
U.  S.  A.;  being  old  acquaintances,  I  accompanied  them  to 
the  ruins  around  the  city.  Our  first  venture  was  across  the 
beautiful  iron  bridge  recently  constructed  over  the  Nile, 
which  replaced  the  unsafe  pontoon  formerly  used.  We 
entered  upon  a  vast  plain,  now  being  improved  at  great 
expense  as  an  extensive  park  with  plants  and  fountains,  as  a 
brcathing-place  [or  health  and  amusement,  so  necessary 
to  the  dense  population  of  Cairo.  It  was  here  that  Ismail 
also  proposed  to  construct  a  museum,  in  which,  under  the 
wise  administration  of  Mariettc  Bey,  it  was  designed  to 
place  the  fine  collection  of  Eg>'ptian  antiquities  now  in  the 
Boulac  Museum  at  Cairo,  where  it  would  no  doubt  in  time 
exceed  in  richness  and  interest  any  other  in  the  world. 
Driving  over  the  avenue  leading  to  the  Grand  Pyramid  of 
Gcwah,  shaded  by  the  Icbbck-trcc  planted  for  the  comfort 
of  the  traveller,  wc  passed  on  the  one  side  between  the 
magnificent  palace  of  Gcczah,  of  recent  construction,  with  its 
milcit  of  cultivated  gardens,  and  on  the  other  side  those  of 
the  Khedive's  sons,  two  airy>Iooking  structures  surrounded 
with  verdure  and  rare  flowers.  Leaving  this  pretty  picture 
in  the  rear,  we  again  emerged  upon  the  open  avenue  with 
Its  broad  fields  of  waving  grain,  and  in  the  distance  directly 
in  front  was  Ihc  famous  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  and  beyond  it 
the  gracefully  lined  Libyan  hills.  When  we  arrived  at  our 
destination  the  two  visitors,  with  the  aid  of  the  Arabs, 
painfully  made  the  laborious  ascent,  and  were  rcxvarded  by 
one  of  the  grandest  and  most  interesting  views  in  the 
worid.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  ones  emotions  while 
standing  on  the  top  of  this  great  Pyramid,  500  feet  high. 


CAIXO. 


and  isolated  in  the  midst  of  the  Desert  o(  Sahara,  much  of 
the  view  over  the  sea  of  sand  bounded  by  the  horizon. 
Then  to  the  en»t  beyond  the  Nile,  the  city  of  Cairo,  with  its 
400  minarets  glittering  in  the  eternal  sun,  is  ne§tlcd  in 
great  beauty  at  the  base  of  the  Mokattum  hills,  on  the 
inner  slope  of  which  stands  the  CJtiidcl,  in  its  centre  the 
grand  alabiutcr  mosque  towering  above  it  and  overlooking 
the  city.  Nearer  is  the  Nile,  like  a  silver  ribbon  coursing 
through  the  fertile  fields,  dotted  with  the  palm,  acacia,  and 
lebbek  trees,  The  sun's  mys  shining  (^trough  the  dust 
over  the  city  makes  it  look  like  a  canopy  of  powdered  gold 
floiiting  in  the  air.  The  panorama  which  unveils  itself 
around  the  spectator  is  wonderfully  varied  and  picturesque, 
and  though  the  ascent  may  be  difficult,  it  repays  the  toiler 
for  the  labor  expended  in  climbing.  This  great  Pyramid  was 
originally  5CX3  feet  high,  and  its  base  covered  13  acres,  its 
materia]  amounts  to89.cxxi.Cxx>cubic  feet,  or  6,848,000  tons 
of.stone,  and  to  complete  tlic  construction  it  took  100,000 
laborers  30  years.  I  entered  on  one  occasion  the  highly 
polished  tube,  320  feet  in  length,  leading  through  it.i  centre 
from  the  opening  in  the  north  to  its  base.  Thence  I  pain> 
fully  mounted  through  the  forced  passage,  over  the  sunken 
well,  and  found  myself  at  last  in  the  handsomely  finished 
apartments  called  the  Queen';,  and  King's  chambers.  In 
the  latter  is  the  famous  granite  coffer,  placed  on  the  west- 
ern side  of  the  room.  Great  air-shafts  pierce  the  massive 
walls— one  pointing  to  the  north,  the  other  to  the  south. 
Standing  in  the  centre  of  this  huge  pile  of  stone,  one 
understands  why  it  is  that  the  learned  in  all  ages  have 
variously  speculated  upon  the  origin  and  purpose  of  this 
seventh  wonder  of  the  world,  and  have  advanced  conflicting 
theories  in  explanation  of  its  existence. 

The  coffer  in  the  King's  Chamber  is  made  to  play  a  prom- 
inent part  in  all  these  speculations.  Having  bad  a  per- 
sonal acquaintance  with  many  of  the  great  Egyptologists.  I 
propose  to  give  some  of  their  opinions.     Herodotus  having 


88 


CAIRO. 


said  that  Cheops  built  this  Tyraniid,  and  that  he  w.-l<i  buried 
beneath  it,  though  the  coffer  was  found  in  its  centre  and 
after  diligent  search  no  other  object  that  looked  1i)<c  a 
sarcophagus  has  been  discovered,  many  have  settled 
into  the  opinion  that  in  this  coffer  the  mummy  of  Cheops 
was  placed,  and  as  the  chamber  in  which  it  is  a  fixture 
looked  like  a  tomb,  it  was  the  best  evidence  to  prove  their 
thcor>*,  and  the>*  named  it  Uic  King's  Chamber.  The 
coffer,  too,  was  on  the  side  of  the  setting  sun,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Amcnti.  the  region  whither  the  ancients  thought 
the  soul  went  after  death,  and  it  was  after  this  manner  that 
they  buried  their  deiid.  This  opinion  is  supported  by  the 
fact  that  much  older  pyramids  were  used  as  tombs,  and 
there  arc  many  other  facts  besides  to  sustain  this  theory. 
Other  learned  men  have  ai^ucd  that  this  coffer  has  given 
standards  of  measures  and  weights,  and  that  the  metric 
system  originated  in  its  measurements ;  while  others  have 
written  that  the  Pyramid  was  intended  (or  astronomical 
purposcil,  and  that  the  proper  place  for  the  sarcophagus  was 
in  a  subterranean  vault  beneath  the  pile,  and  not  in  the 
room  called  the  King's  Chamber,  it  being  the  custom  to 
place  mummies  in  the  lower  vault.  One  of  the  strongest 
writers  of  the  present  day  has  published  an  elaborate  work 
in  which  he  attempts,  with  much  scientific  acutcncss,  tO' 
prove  that  the  con.struction  of  the  Pyramid  was  a  divine 
inspiration.  Marictte  Bey,  whom  I  knew  for  many  years, 
and  (or  whose  sincerity,  experience,  and  v.-»st  knowledge  I 
entertain  the  most  profound  respect,  thinks  that  Cheops 
built  the  Pyramid  for  his  tomb  at  a  time  anterior  to  the 
eariicst  dawn  of  histor>*  in  any  other  quarter  of  the  world — 
namely,  in  the  epoch  of  the  fourth  dynasty  of  Eg>'ptian 
kings,  which  Mariette  dates  back  4335  years  before  the 
Christian  era. 

Another  great  Egyptologist,  Brugsch  Bey,  the  learned 
German  professor,  agrees  with  Mariette  Bey  that  the  great 
Pyramids  are  tombs,  but  places  their  date  at  4455  B.C. 


CAIRO. 


*9 


Biinsen,  the  celebrated  German  traveller,  goes  still  farther 
back,  and  yet  another  noted  man,  the  English  historian 
Rawlinson,  b  uncertain  on  the  subject,  and  is  waiting 
further  developments  before  venturing  any  opinion  as  to 
the  date.  In  mentioning  the  remarkable  men  who  have 
expressed  their  opinions  upon  this  interesting  subject,  it  is 
well  to  speak  of  the  Arab  authors,  who  go  back  nearly  i30O 
years  in  their  knowledge  of  these  structures.  As  usual, 
they  are  very  positive,  and  state  that  the  antediluvian 
astrologers  who  prophesied  of  the  coming  of  the  deluge  in- 
duced the  building  of  the  Pyramid  to  preserve  the  learning 
of  the  p.-Lit.  The  name  of  the  star  Siriua,  which  was  ven- 
erated by  the  early  Egyptians  because  it  appeared  just 
before  the  inundation  of  the  Nile  and  was  sometimes  called 
Sothis,  gave  rise  to  the  name  Seth  ;  and  the  Arabs,  seizing 
upon  this  name,  have  dignified  it  as  that  of  the  great  con- 
structor of  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops.  I  offer  the  views  of 
one  more  distinguished  man,  than  whom  there  is  no  Egyp- 
tologist more  entitled  to  consideration  (or  sincerity  and 
knowledge.  H.ikekeyan  Bey,  an  Armenian,  who  resided  in 
Egypt  from  early  infancy,  was  sent  to  Oxford  by  Mehemet 
Ali,  and  returned  profoundly  versed  in  the  science  and  liter- 
ature of  Europe.  Besides  holding  for  many  years  some  of 
the  highest  positions  in  the  government,  he  devoted  a  long 
life  to  the  study  of  Egypt's  ruins,  and  his  opinions  were 
much  respected  by  the  learned.  It  was  my  happiness  to 
form  his  acquaintance  on  my  first  visit  to  Egypt,  and  to 
retain  his  friendship  through  the  many  years  of  my  late 
residence  there.  He  was  fond  of  Englishmen  and  Ameri- 
cans, and  they  were  ever  welcome  to  his  hospitable  home. 
This  ripe  scholar,  now  gathered  in  his  old  age  to  his  fathers, 
I  remember  with  great  veneration,  and  t  recall  with  plcas> 
urc  his  goodness  and  kindly  nature.  In  a  memorandum 
which  he  gave  me  he  expresses  the  opinion  that  the  coffer 
which  stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  King's  Chamber  in  the 
Pyramid  of  Cheops  was  deposited  there  by  the  primitive 


90 


W/JPA 


Aryans  as  a  record  of  their  standard  measure.  He  believed 
tliat  thesf  Pyramids  were  erected  for  great  national  pur- 
poses :  that  their  wonderful  plan  and  construction  could 
only  have  been  founded  upon  the  concentrated  wisdom  of 
ages,  and  lh;it  only  a  u-liole  people  would  undertake  the 
building  of  such  a  gigantic  pile  of  stone  as  the  Pyramid  of 
Chcop»  for  some  purpose  of  great  public  utility.  Me  was 
imprcsiscd  with  the  conviction  that  this  Pyramid  was  an 
embodied  record  of  science,  particularly  of  astronomy  and 
of  standards  of  measurement  so  necessary  to  men  at  that 
early  period,  especially  in  a  purely  agricultural  countr}-,  the 
landmarks  of  which  were  yearly  wiped  out  by  inundations. 
He  held  that  there  is  no  reason  for  adopting  the  theory  of 
successive  layers  built  by  succeeding  kings  so  as  to  increase 
the  burying  capacity  of  the  structure.  He  truthfully  said  : 
"It  is  well  known  that  a  tyrant  scarcely  ever  completes  a 
work  left  unfinished  by  his  predecessor." 

However  interesting  thc^c  theories  of  learned  enthusiasts 
may  be,  there  is  no  question  that  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops  is 
"  a  miracle  in  stone,"  whose  builders  must  have  had  con- 
siderable knowledge  of  geometrical  proportion  and  of 
abstruse  science.  There  is  no  reason,  in  the  great  size  and 
necessary  cost  of  the  Pyramids  in  monc>-  and  toil,  for  think- 
ing that  they  were  built  simply  for  the  vainglory  of  the 
ancient  Pharaohs.  While  they  must  have  added  brilliancy 
to  the  reigns  of  these  monarchs,  they  were  not  only  of 
immediate  and  practical  importance,  but  they  embodied  for 
future  ages  symbols  expressive  of  the  most  enlightened 
conceptions  of  human  knowledge  ;  they  were  great  books, 
containing  within  their  massive  folds  the  concentrated  wis- 
dom of  ages,  founded  upon  the  eternal  principles  of  truth. 
The  question  naturally  occurs.  Can  it  be  possible  that  the 
480,000,000  of  people  whose  mummies  are  encased  in  the 
rocks  of  the  Libyan  hills  that  border  the  banks  of  the  Nile. 
and  who  possessed  a  scientific  culture  equal  in  some  re- 
spects to  that  of  our  own  boasted  era,  carried  through  such 


CAIRO. 


91 


mighty  works  simply  to  provide  a  place  of  sepulture  ?  This 
it  is  difficult  to  believe.  It  is  equally  clear,  ]iowe\'cr,  that 
kings  made  use  of  the  Pyramids  for  tombs  as  well  as  for 
Astronomical  purposes.  Mariettc  Bey,  who  was  for  so  many 
years  in  chaise  of  the  excavations  of  the  ruins  of  Egypt,  gives 
it  as  his  opinion  that  there  is  more  valuable  information 
concerning  ancient  [^g>'pt  buried  beneath  the  sands  of 
the  desert  bordering  the  Nile  than  has  yet  been  revealed. 
It  is  more  than  possible  that  by  unearthing  it  much  of  ihc 
great  mystery  surrounding  that  people,  its  Pyramids,  and 
its  other  great  ruins,  may  yet  be  more  clciirly  solved. 

Leaving  the  Pyramid,  wc  next  visited  the  Sphinx,  carved 
«uC  of  the  solid  rock.  This  is  a  recumbent  lion  with  the 
head  of  a  man.  The  face  is  broken,  but  enough  ts  left  to 
betray  the  inscrutable  gaze  and  the  stolid,  changeless  smile 
with  which  its  human  face  greets  the  rising  sun.  For  a 
long  time  it  was  supposed  to  date  from  a  period  posterior 
to  that  of  the  P)'ramlds,  but  it  is  now  thought,  from  its 
dose  connection  with  a  lately  discovered  temple  belonging 
to  the  ancient  empire,  that  it  was  a  sacred  s>'mbol. 

The  Arabs  are  superstitious  in  regard  to  this  mysterious 
and  gigantic  rock,  and  believe  that  among  its  other  super- 
natural  powers  it  holds  in  check  the  encroaching  desert 
sands.  The  name  given  the  Sphinx  by  the  ancients  was 
"  Hermachis"  (Watcher),  and  it  was  considered  as  the 
guardian  of  the  celebrated  Necropolis  which  was  located 
around  it.  It  was  made  famous  by  the  great  Thothmes  III., 
who  showed  special  veneration  for  the  Sphinx,  and  chose  it 
as  his  tutelary  god.  We  descended  into  the  neighboring 
excavated  temple  of  alabaster,  and  picked  our  way  among 
the  rows  of  granite  columns.  Its  architecture  is  simple 
and  grand,  of  exquisite  linish,  and  without  writing  upon 
any  part  of  it.  An  American  civil  engineer,  erudite  and 
scientific,  Mr.  Walter  W.  Evans,  of  New  Rochelle,  told  me 
that  he  had  never  seen  stone  more  beautifully  polislied,  or 
known  such  gigantic  blocks  cf  stone  to  be  fitted  with  such 


9» 


CAIKO. 


nicety — so  close,  to  use  his  onii  words,  "  as  simost  to  defy 
discover)'."  He  added  th.it  "  lundling.  polisliing,  and 
perfecting  their  surface  at  the  present  time,  as  is  done  here 
upon  these  hard  rocks,  would  require  powerful  modem 
machinery."  This  temple  is  no  doubt  many  thousands  of 
years  older  than  any  other  place  of  worship  in  th^  world, 
and  is  therefore  an  object  of  great  interest.  It  was  in  one 
of  its  chambers,  in  a  well  thirty  feet  deep,  that  the  magnifi- 
cent statue  of  Chephren,  or  Shafed,  the  builder  of  the 
second  Pyramid,  was  discovered,  The  statue  is  now  in  the 
Boulac  Museum.  It  is  of  breccia,  and  Marictte  Bey  says 
that  it  has  come  down  not  less  than  sixty  centuries,  and  is 
not  only  remarkable  for  its  high  antiquity,  but  is  marked 
by  a  finish  of  detail,  a  fu!ne«,  and  a  majesty  which  render 
it  one  of  the  most  valuable  relics  of  antiquity  that  have 
ever  been  discovered.  It  throws  an  unexpected  light  upon 
the  earliest  Egyptian  art,  and  shows  us  that  Egyptian 
artists  6000  years  ago  had  attained  a  perfection  closely  ap- 
proaching that  of  later  ages. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  Badresham,  a  vill,igc  twelve  miles 
by  rail  up  the  Nile,  whence  we  had  donkeys.  On  the  side 
of  the  Libyan  hills  we  soon  found  ourselves  in  the  famous 
tunnel  of  the  Sacred  Bulls.  Lighting  our  candles,  we  pen- 
etratcd  its  thick  darkness,  and  at  every  step  realized  the 
amazement  which  Mariette  Bey  has  so  graphically  described 
as  incident  to  his  visit  on  discovering  the  tomb. 

Though  I  had  been  in  this  tunnel  of  the  Sacred  Bulls 
before  this  visit,  its  wonders  always  impressed  me  with 
renewed  interest.  Huge  blocks  of  granite,  nearly  twelve 
feet  square,  were  brought  from  their  quarry  at  Syenc,  650 
miles  down  the  Nile,  hollowed,  polished,  and  shaped  like  a 
beautiful  urn,  and  placed  in  a  tunnel  dug  into  a  mountain 
nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  which,  like  the  niches  fitted  for 
them  on  its  sides,  was  scarcely  large  enough  to  admit  them. 
When  it  is  considered  that  all  this  enormous  work  was, 
according  to  our  mind,  simply  to  preserve  a  miserabU  ntum- 


-^ 


CAIRO. 


93 


Mud  bull,  their  god  Apis,  it  seems  indeed  a  in>"ster)'.  The 
only  solution,  so  far,  appears  to  be  that  the  ox  was  useful 
to  the  Eg>'ptian  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  for  that 
reason  they  worshipped  him  as  they  did  the  dog  and  the  cat 
because  they  destroyed  the  rat  and  other  smaller  animals 
that  devoured  their  grain.  Mariette  Bey  told  mc  that  one 
of  the  chief  delights  experienced  in  a  long  course  of  ar- 
chxological  research  was  in  discovering  these  tombs,  which 
had  been  bidden  for  so  many  ages,  though  the  bulls,  with 
all  their  precious  relics,  had  been  removed,  probably  by 
Cambyscs  the  Persian,  who  had  shown  such  contempt  for 
the  god  by  running  his  sword  through  the  then  living  Apis. 
Marictte  Bey.  however,  subsequently,  while  examining  the 
walls  of  the  tunnel,  discovered  a  small  stone  with  the  im- 
press of  a  man's  hand  in  mortar  upon  it,  and  another  lomb 
was  disclosed  which  had  never  been  opened.  The  mummy 
was  intact,  covered  with  all  the  rich  cerements,  encased  in 
a  beautifully  polished  urn,  with  its  history  in  hieroglyphics 
inscribed  upon  it.  The  inscription  showed  that  this  tomb 
had  been  placed  there  by  Ramescs  II.,  the  Pharaoh  whom 
the  Bible  speaks  of  as  not  knowing  Joseph,  the  persecutor 
of  the  Jews,  and  no  doubt  the  father  of  the  king  from  whom 
Moses  fled  to  Mount  Sinai.  The  fact  was  fully  explained 
from  this  connection  that  Aaron  understood  the  worship  of 
the  bull  when  he  permitted  his  people  to  make  the  golden 
calf.  I  asked  Manette  upon  one  occasion  if  it  was  true 
that  when  he  entered  this  tomb,  which  had  been  scaled  up 
untouched  for  3700  years,  that  he  saw  the  tracks  of  the 
naked  feet  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  as  had  been  stated, 
printed  in  the  dust  on  their  leaving  the  tomb.  His  reply 
Wiis  that  it  was  his  custom  to  look  as  soon  as  possible  into 
all  places  of  his  unearthing,  in  order  to  discover  what  objects 
were  there,  as  some  instantly  crumbled,  and  that  his  atten- 
tion was  at  once  attracted  by  the  footprints  in  the  undis- 
turbed dust  and  debris. 

In  the  museum  of  Boulac  there  is  a  5nely  preserved 


»4 


CAIRO. 


statue  of  a  priest,  an  exalted  official  "  enllironcd  in  the 
heart  of  his  Lord,"  by  the  name  of  Ti,  of  the  liftl) 
d>*nasty,  who  held  many  of  the  highest  offices,  civil  and 
sacerdotal.  Though  of  humble  origin,  be  became  great, 
and  married  "  the  palm  of  amiability,"  a  daughter  of  the 
royal  family  of  F.g>-pt.  His  statue  is  delicately  finished 
ind  apparently  perfectly  true  to  nature.  A  wig  covering  his 
head  and  a  cloth  around  his  loins  constitute  the  simple 
dress  which  adorns  it.  The  statue  Is  of  large  size,  and  if 
uniformed  in  continentals  would  make  a  good  representa- 
tion of  Wa.tliington.  Not  far  from  the  tombs  of  the  Bulls 
we  entered  the  mastaba  (chapel)  of  this  official,  not  lon^ 
uncovered  by  the  Bey  from  the  sands  of  the  desert.  The 
Ui;gest  chamber  looks  as  fresh  as  though  just  finished. 
Ti  is  seen  pictured  as  a  wealthy  farmer,  beautifully  sculpt- 
ured in  buos-rclicf  upon  its  walls,  with  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren walking  leisurely  in  his  yard,  with  poultry  and  other 
domestic  animals  around,  while  the  servants  arc  feeding 
geese  and  cranes  after  our  modem  mode  of  stuffing.  There 
are  seen  also  sailing  boats  on  the  Nile,  with  men  construct- 
ing others.  Judges  Hitting  in  judgment,  and  prisoners  being 
brought  to  trial  ;  great  numbers  of  women  with  baskets  on 
their  heads  ;  offerings  of  sacrificial  food  and  drink  from  the 
villagers ;  ploughing,  reaping,  and  the  driving  of  sheep ; 
taking  an  account  of  and  branding  cattle  ;  fishing  and  hunt- 
ing with  a  stick  and  cat.  and  a  park  filled  with  wild  animals 
and  fishing- ponds,  are  portrayed.  Without  a  knowledge  of 
hieroglyphics,  through  this  picture  one  can  read  the  every- 
day life  of  this  man,  his  interior  domestic  economy,  his 
profession,  riches,  and  offices.  Notwithstanding  the  con- 
ventional type  of  the  art,  cvcrj'thing  is  strikingly  full  of 
action,  and  the  great  similarity  of  much  of  the  life  depicted 
to  that  of  the  present  day  impresses  one  with  the  idea  that 
the  present  is  but  a  familiar  panorama  of  the  civilization  of 
nearly  six  thousand  years  ago.  The  historian  can  leam 
more  from  this  single  tomb  of  that  ancient  people  than  he 


CAIRO. 


9S 


can  from  volumes  written  on  the  subject.  Though  thr 
Egyptians  wrote  upon  papyrus  for  eternal  preservation,  yet 
they  were  so  anxious  to  transmit  their  history  that  they 
made  it  enduring  in  stone. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  Hcliopolis,  or  the  old  city  of  On, 
seven  miles  below  Cairo,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river.  The 
first  object  on  the  way  to  interest  the  traveller  is  the 
"  seebel  "  (fountain),  which  the  mother  of  the  Khedive 
charitably  erected  for  the  poor  and  the  thirsty  Kcdouin 
who  wanders  in  from  the  desert  with  his  thorny  aromatic 
plants,  or  now  and  then  to  sell  an  Arabian  horse  or  a 
camel.  As  he  slakes  his  thirst  he  never  fails  to  ask  Allah 
to  reward  the  beneficent  donor  for  this  thoughtful  niuniii- 
cence.  In  the  East,  where  water  i^  always  sicarce,  there  is 
no  kindness  that  equals  the  establishment  of  a  fountain, 
and  the  true  believers  arc  happy  in  the  thought  that  in  this 

3od  work  they  are  assured  of  the  prayers  of  the  Faithful 
tn  securing  for  them  scats  in  Mahomet's  Paradise.  For 
this  reason  no  charity  is  so  universal.  Turning  to  the  cast, 
wc  follow  the  old  Saracenic  walk  ending  in  the  curious 
bastions  on  the  desert  constructed  by  Saladin  (Salch-et- 
Decn),  the  famous  warrior  who  defended  Cairo  ^.linst  the 
assault  of  the  Christian  invader.  Near  these  fortitications 
is  the  tomb  of  Amalck-Adatt£,  the  mother  of  Saladin. 
With  the  chivalric  gallantry  of  a  great  soldier,  he  showed, 
in  the  erection  of  this  beautiful  memento  to  the  one  who 
gave  him  being,  a  filial  gratitude  which  docs  him  greater 
honor  than  the  laurels  of  grim-visaged  war.  which  so  splcn* 
didly  encircle  his  name.  The  dome  which  surmounts  the 
tomb  with  its  lace-like  covering  is  the  chaste  pencilling  of 
the  highest  Samcenic  art  of  that  period.  Admiring  its 
beauty,  the  spect-itor  is  amazed  that  this  relic,  so  interest- 
ing in  history  and  historically  connected  with  a  brilliant 
epoch,  should  be  .illowcd  by  the  Arabs  to  crumble  into 
ruin.  But  the  Mahometan  has  forgotten  the  past  and  is 
occupied  with  the  present.     He  never  sheds  a  tear  or . 


\c 


CAiRO. 


speaks  a  piayer  over  tile  mother  or  his  renowned  leader. 
The  Moslem  never  repairs  even  the  most  sacred  mosques, 
unless  they  arc  so  situated  that  he  can  make  use  o(  his  faith 
in  turning  an  honest  piastre  willi  the  least  possible  trouble 
to  himself.  To  the  right  arc  the  so-catled  tombs  of  the 
Caliphs,  properly  Mamelukes'  tombs.  Their  numerous 
domes  are  still  standing,  but,  like  the  mosques  and  tombs 
birneath,  they  are  crumbling.  Their  remains,  surrounded 
by  the  desert,  are  very  beautiful  in  precious  stone  and 
marble,  carved  in  rich  Saracenic  devices.  I  know  of  but 
one  tomb  of  a  Caliph  standing.  It  is  just  within  the  city, 
a  rare  old  structure,  and  is  the  tomb  of  Saleh-cl-Eiyoub, 
the  conqueror  of  St.  Louis,  the  Crusader,  in  his  foolish 
attempt  upon  C;iiro.  The  location  probably  accounts  for 
its  preservation.  The  others  were  all  destroyed  to  make 
way  for  the  present  city. 

There  are  beautiful  domes  over  the  ashes  of  remarkable 
Caliphs  and  Sultans,  who  are  forgotten  by  the  Mahome- 
tans. Sometimes  the  intelligent  foreigner  hunts  up  the 
name  of  the  distinguished  individual,  or  they  would  all  pas<i 
into  oblivion.  I  have  never  met  an  Arab  who  could  tcU 
where  Saladin  was  buried.  When  I  visited  Damascus, 
twenty  years  ago,  there  was  no  one  there  who  knew. 
Finally  a  Greek  dragoman  informed  me  that  he  had  got  the 
account  of  the  place  from  an  Englishman.  This  ignorance 
may  not  seem  altogether  singular  when  I  state  that  at 
Westminster  Abbe>',  forgetting  for  the  moment  that  Alex- 
ander I'opc  was  a  Catholic,  I  asked  a  highly  intelligent 
usher,  who  was  wandering  with  me.  pointing  out  the  illus- 
trious dead  in  that  celebrated  repository,  where  the  grave 
of  the  great  Pope  was.  Looking  at  me  with  a  dazed 
expression,  he  acknowledged  that  he  did  not  know,  and  I 
then  remembered  that  the  poet  w.-ls  buried  at  Twickenham. 

To  our  left,  opposite  these  tombs,  I  have  seen  thou- 
sands of  pilgrims  from  Africa  take  their  leave  for  the  desert 
on   their  visit   to   the   tomb   of    ihc   Prophet.     Near   the 


CAIRO. 


Citadel  the  Khedive,  with  all  the  dignitaries  and  militaiy 
of  Y.'^-^X,  €X' grandt  IntHf,  places  in  the  keeping  of  the 
Tnilitaiy  sheik,  who  is  naked  and  mounted  on  a  dromedary, 
with  his  bushy  head  uncovered,  the  beautifully  gold- 
embroidered  carpet  {makmat)  to  be  placed  upon  the  tomb 
of  the  Prophet.  The  custom  is  said  to  have  had  its  origin 
from  a  Caliph  providing  a  handsome  carpet  upon  which  his 
favorite  sat  during  her  trip  to  the  Holy  City  ;  in  the  excite- 
ment of  religious  fren/y  she  threw  the  carpet  over  the  tomb, 
ami  the  Faithful  have  ever  since  celebrated  the  event. 
Headed  by  the  naked  sheik,  a  grand  procession  passes 
through  Cairo  amid  salutes  of  artillery,  and  at  this  spot 
joins  the  cavalcade,  when  the  mob  in  fanatical  excitement 
commences  its  wanderings. 

A  few  years  since  much  of  the  fertile  Jand  cultivated  on 
each  side  of  us  was  a  desert,  but  the  planting  of  the  Icbbek 
tree  in  broad  rows,  and  between  them  the  cactus,  soon 
forms,  with  the  help  of  constant  irrigation,  a  soil.  In  this 
way  broad  acres  arc  reclaimed  by  a  rapid  fertilization. 
Passing  the  shapeless  mass  of  buildings  used  for  military 
schools  and  barracks,  the  drive  is  through  shady  avenues 
lined  with  exotics  and  orange-trees,  and  turning  around  the 
palace  of  Prince  Tewfik,  now  Khedive,  we  again  visit  the 
Virgin's  tree  at  Am.alcriah,  Everybody  goes  there  because 
of  the  tradition  that  the  f loly  Family  was  sheltered  under 
the  tree  during  the  celebrated  flight  into  Egypt,  and  no 
one  fails  to  drink  from  the  spring  which,  when  tasted  by 
the  Virgin,  turned  at  once  from  salt  to  the  sweetest  water. 
A  few  minutes  more  and  we  stood  under  the  famous  obe> 
lisk  at  Hcliopolis,  the  City  of  the  Sun.  This  name,  derived 
from  the  Greeks,  designates  the  city  of  On  of  the  Bible. 
Jeremiah  calls  it  Bethshcmeth,  "  The  House  of  the  Sun." 
The  obelisk  was  erected  by  Osetarsin  of  the  twelfth 
dynasty,  3061  B.C.,  according  to  Mariette  Bey.  Among 
the  inscriptions  on  it  is  that  Osetarsin  was  "  the  friend  of 
the  spirits  of  On,   the  ever-living  golden    Horus,"   and 


CAIRO, 


placed  in  front  of  the  temple  of  the  sun  arc  the  Jachin  and 
Boaz  of  the  Egyptian  sanctuary.  I  Kings  7  :  31. 

A  visit  to  the  Boulac  Museum,  near  Cairo,  is  one  of  the 
great  events  to  the  stranger  soon  after  his  arrival.  Resid- 
ing many  years  near  this  wonderful  collection  of  antiquities, 
my  visits  were  frequent,  and  each  object  became  familiar  to 
me.  The  ablest  Egyptologists  have  written  of  its  contents, 
but  without  their  aid  it  is  e:isy  to  learn  much  of  the  history 
of  that  ancient  people  simply  from  the  inscriptions  found 
here.  Here  also  is  much  of  their  mysterious  literature,  re- 
corded in  papyrus  and  folded  away  among  these  dusty  rc< 
mains.  These  records  upon  stone  and  papyrus  go  back  to 
the  first  Egyptian  monarchy — tothat  prodigious  distance  of 
time,  according  to  noted  Egyptologists,  5004  years  before 
the  Christian  era.  They  believe  there  is  evidence  of  thirty- 
four  dynasties  ;  in  presenting  which  it  is  always  with  the 
qualification  that  their  investigations  of  the  truth  of  their 
existence  should  be  taken  with  many  doubts,  as  they  neces- 
sarily pass  through  the  clouds  of  a  misty  past  which  in 
some  sort  belongs  to  the  infancy  of  the  human  race. 

One  of  the  most  celebrated  monuments  in  assisting  in- 
vestigations is  in  this  museum — 3  tablet  found  at  Saccarah, 
in  the  tomb  of  a  priest  named  Tounar-j,  This  tablet  is 
valuable,  as  it  corroborates  the  book  of  Manitho.  the  pagan 
priest,  the  book  itself  being  lost.  A  mosaic  of  the  fragments 
make  out  the  thirty-four  dynasties.  The  Eg>'ptians  be- 
lieved, "when  the  dead  merited  eternal  life  they  were 
admitted,  in  the  other  world,  into  the  society  of  kings." 
This  priest  is  represented  on  this  stone  as  entering  the 
presence  of  fifty-cight  kings.  It  not  only  assists  in  fixing 
the  date  of  their  earliest  monarchy,  but  it  is  one  of  the  evi- 
dences of  their  belief  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul.  The 
meeting  of  the  ghosts  by  the  Egyptian  is  singularly  in 
accordance  with  the  passage  in  Isaiah,  already  quoted,  of 
the  defunct  king  who  had  penetrated  into  the  august 
assembly  of  the  departed,  who  exclaimed  to  him  as  he 


Pn/tl,  Prtfttriif  Afirmmy  frr  Buri*l. 


Kttvrfttiif  ef  th*  Bviy, 


CAIRO. 


99 


entered,  "  Is  this  the  man  that  made  the  earth  to  tremble?" 
Before  unearthing  the  Egyptian  belief  in  the  immortality 
of  the  soul,  this  passage  in  the  Bible  had  strengthened  the 
Christian  in  htic  belief.  The  F.^'ptian  believed  in  body, 
soul,  and  spirit ;  at  death,  the  soul,  after  many  trials,  came 
to  judgment.  Passinj;  through  theOsirian  ordeal,  it  returns 
to  its  body  in  the  form  of  a  dove  with  the  face  of  a  man. 
and  is  seen  hovering  over  the  corpse  with  outstretched 
wings,  the  cross  of  life,  or  Tat,  in  one  hand,  and  the  Sail, 
or  vital  spark,  in  the  other.  An  interesting  instance  is  on 
the  tombstone  of  Mcnai,  a  prophet  of  Osiris.  While  it 
is  over  his  body,  he  is  made  to  say.  "  My  soul  goes  to  unite 
itself  to  my  body. "  There  arc  frequent  prayers  upon  other 
tombs  to  save  their  bodies  from  destruction,  not  to  leave 
their  corpses  to  dissolve. 

TTiis  belief  in  the  resurrection  is  made  sttU  more  impres- 
sive by  picturing  the  goddess  Ncith,  the  divine  mother, 
overhanging  the  firmament.  Beneath  her  is  the  body  of  a 
red  man  (the  natural  body)  falling  to  the  earth  ;  another 
figure  of  a  blue  color  (the  spiiitual)  is  stretching  forth  his 
arms  as  though  rising  to  the  firmament.  It  is  thought  that 
this  has  direct  reference  to  the  resurrection  of  the  de»d  and 
the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and  that  their  belief  w-is  simi- 
lar to  that  of  Plato,  and  particularly  that  of  St.  Paul. 

Another  interesting  incident  in  the  life  of  Neith.  the 
divine  mother,  is  in  a  tomb  of  one  of  the  Ramcscs,  where 
she  is  beautifully  sculptured  and  painted.  Champollion  has 
elaborately  described  this  sculpture.  The  ceiling  in  the 
chamber  of  the  sarcophagus  is  not  only  rich  in  ornament, 
but  extremely  mystical.  The  description  of  the  sun  is  por- 
trayed in  its  procession  through  the  hours  of  the  day  and 
night,  symbolizing  the  life  of  the  burning  orb.  the  sun.  or 
Pharaoh.  The  symbolical  paintings  are  inclosed  by  the 
immense  person  of  Neith,  the  goddess  of  the  firmament, 
extended  round  the  ceiling  and  sides  of  the  chamber,  sepa- 
rating the  day  and  m'ght.     In  the  east  Neith  becomes  the 


100 


CAfRO. 


mother  o(  the  sun,  who  is  then  an  infant  and  tenderly 
placed  in  a  Ixot.  when  he  descends  the  celestial  river  ac- 
companied by  a  grand  cavalcade  of  divinities.  Each  hour 
i>(  the  Ctxf  is  marked  by  a  globe,  and  those  of  the  night 
by  a  star.  In  the  seventh  hour  of  the  voyage  they  sound, 
and  the  pilot  comes  on  board  the  boat  and  guides  them 
through  the  remaining  hours  of  the  night.  At  the  twelfth 
hour  ihey  enter  the  sea  into  which  the  river  empties,  when 
the  eastward  voyage  through  the  hours  of  the  night  com- 
mences, towed  up  a  course  of  the  celestial  river,  which  with 
the  main  stream  ends  in  the  western  sea. 

The  life  of  man  was  assimilated  by  the  Egyptians  to  the 
march  of  the  sun  over  our  heads,  and  his  death  to  the  set- 
ting of  that  orb,  which  disappears  at  the  western  horizon 
of  the  heavens,  to  return  on  the  morrow  victorious  over 
darkness. 

There  is  another  stone  tablet  in  this  museum,  discovered 
by  Mariette  Bey,  which  is  important.  He  thinks  it  identifies 
the  rock  temple  with  the  great  Sphinx,  and  makes  them 
anterior  to  Cheops  and  his  Pyramid,  as  it  refers  to  hts 
repairing  the  Sphinx.  This  temple  is  thus  the  oldest  in 
existence  for  the  worship  of  God. 

The  statues  of  the  young  Prince  Ra-ho-tep  and  his  wife 
Neferte  are  among  the  oldest  relics  of  the  past,  some  think 
the  oldest  statues  that  the  hand  of  man  ever  fashioned. 
The  wonderful  display  of  art  in  these  perfectly  preserved 
statues,  at  a  time  almost  coeval  with  the  earliest  evidence 
of  the  existence  of  man,  is  another  link  in  the  chain  that 
goes  to  show  that  man  in  the  caHiest  day  was  at  his  best. 

In  speaking  of  their  painting  it  is  difficult  to  particularize 
where  everything  they  handled,  from  statue  to  temple,  was 
made  brilliant  by  variegated  colors.  Even  their  tombs 
inside  and  out  were  touched  by  the  pencil  of  the  painter. 
What  plcised  my  taste,  both  in  beauty  of  form  and  in 
color,  were  several  Egyptian  ducks,  painted  upon  stucco,  of 
the  age  and  found  near  the  tomb  of  the  Prince  Ra-ho-tep. 


CA/SO. 


loi 


Other  pointings  which  elicited  my  wonder  were  of  a 
much  later  date,  found  in  the  tomb  of  Ramcscs  III.  at 
Tfacbcs.  They  are  of  harpers.  These  paintings  arc  as 
fresh  and  beautifully  drawn  as  when  they  came  from  the 
artist's  pencil.  They  arc  of  such  elegant  con.itruction  and 
the  numerous  strings  arc  so  delicately  touched,  are  so  real, 
that  in  imagination  one  can  almost  hear  the  notes  vibrate 
through  the  immepsc  tomb  cut  into  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain at  Melek-BoalduV-  These,  too,  sliow  the  wonderful 
knowledge  of  thdsfi  jfnc^^nt.  people  in  lasting  colors. 

Going  back  again  to'tlrtfttfohdor.of  Thebes,  I  recall  some 
of  their  sculptured  battle-scenes^' .•'S'ljlt.sanic  glowing  war 
imagery  which  Homer  described  nt-the-'heroic  age  of 
Greece,  the  artist  in  the  age  of  Ramescs  II.*'arflj^(;fdi:  to,that 
of  Achilles,  has  sculptured  upon  the  walls  of  tlic  .filt:^^ ,  A 
nonium.  Here  the  Pharaoh  "  lifted  up  the  flame  of  thit  •*  ' 
sword  and  the  lightning  of  the  spear,"  and  hearing  "  the 
rattling  of  the  wheels"  and  seeing  "the  prancing  horses 
and  the  jumping  chariots"  carry  one  back  more  vividly 
to  one  of  the  many  heroic  ages  than  docs  even  the  renowned 
poem  of  the  Grecian  bard. 

Passing  the  village  sheik,  the  wooden  man  of  6000  years, 
whose  eyes,  though  dimmed  by  too  much  handling,  are  stiU 
wonderfully  beautiful,  and  the  visitor  is  immediately  in  full 
view  of  the  golden  (ace  on  the  mummy-box  of  Queen 
Aa-ho-tep.  Mariettc  Bey  has  collected  over  200  beautiful 
articles  of  her  jewelry  and  virtu  of  which  mention  has  been 
already  made  ;  he  thinks  she  was  the  mother  of  Aahmes, 
Not  being  able  to  present  her  portrait,  I  have  given  that 
of  Nefcrt-Ari-Aahmes,  "  the  beautiful  companion  of 
Aahmes,"  and  his  queen.  She  is  dark-skinned,  and  was  an 
Ethiopian  of  the  highest  physical  type.  Brugsch  Bey  says 
she  was  worshipped  in  after  ages  as  an  ancestress  and 
founder  of  the  eighteenth  dynasty.  Another  attractive 
statue  is  a  fine  likeness  of  Ameneritis,  the  queen  of  Piaukhi, 
the  Ethiopian  king  and  conqueror  of  Egypt.     It  is  of  ala 


loa 


CA/JtO. 


baster.  and  its  head,  breast,  and  shoulders  are  perfect,  with 
a  very  expressive  face.  Herodotus  says  that  in  his  d:ty  the 
Egyptians  were  a  temperate  people,  before  and  sub&cqucnt 
to  bis  being  there.  There  arc  many  evidences  of  their 
being  greatly  addicted  to  strong  drink  ;  they  delighted  in 
painting  and  engraving  drunken  people.  Men  and  women 
were  convivial,  and  liked  the  juice  of  the  grape.  They 
planted  the  grape  and  extracted  the  ^ujce  by  presses  and 
by  treading  the  grape  with  their  feet;/' Apother  portrait  of 
the  queen  of  Aahmes  is  given  .ta'^hciw't'he  cvcry-day  cos- 
tume, head-dress,  wig,.  at>d  -loK^  transparent  robe,  with  a 
good  deal  of  _  the"  jtrv/eky  worn.  The  Western  man  is 
amused  at.lhcir  pWlriitive  instruments  of  agriculture,  but 
the.,mQ^tWi"  KTgyptians  and  some  of  the  Spanish  race  are 
"not/ there  being  among  ihem  some  of  these  verj- imple- 
.  Aient» — those  that  were  in  use  at  the  time  of  Joseph, 

Their  immense  number  of  volumes  of  papyrus  and  their 
writing  on  every  conceivable  thing  in  stone,  show  that 
they  were  a  literary  people.  They  wrote  upon  morals, 
science,  and  art,  and  many  novels  and  works  of  travel  have 
been  found  in  their  tombs.  They  excelled  tn  writings 
upon  agriculture,  architecture,  and  mathematics  ;  but  much 
of  that  wisdom  they  arc  credited  with  has  not  come  down 
to  us  ;  their  books  upon  astronomy  and  medicine  are  not 
considered  so  wonderful.  In  the  earliest  pcrind.  which  is 
somewhat  shadowed,  they  may  have  been  more  intellectual 
and  with  fewer  of  the  superstitions  which  seem  to  have 
cramped  them  later. 

There  were  three  extraordinary  periods  in  their  history 
when  they  flourished  in  great  splendor  and  their  arms  were 
irresistible.  After  each  of  these  eras  there  was  a  sudden 
eclipse,  when  civilization  was  thrown  back.  Were  they 
conquered  by  the  people  they  had  taught  to  fight  ?  Or  did 
tbcy  meet  an  enemy  on  equal  terms,  like  the  Persians,  who 
blotted  them  out  ?  The  bright  epochs  in  their  history  are 
engraved  on  their  monuments,  but  upon  those  followed  \fy 


CAIRO. 


«5 


darkness  they  are  utterly  silent.  In  the  era  after  the  sixth 
dynasty  it  does  not  appear,  from  papyrus,  tomb,  or  temple 
for  several  hundred  years,  that  one  human  being  existed 
in  the  country,  and  were  it  not  for  the  obscure  men- 
tion of  one  or  two  king«  by  Man^tho,  the  pagan  priest, 
it  would  be  doubtful  whether  Egypt  existed  as  a  nation. 

It  was  impossible  to  walk  through  this  museum  without 
thinking  those  ancient  people  were  fond  of  amusement  and 
dress,  and  that  they  were  jovial  and  rollicking,  and  given 
to  drinking  and  feasting.  Men  and  women  were  fond  of 
banquets  and  fine  equipages,  and  liked  an  easy,  luxurious 
life. 

The  king  made  his  people  build  temples  for  his  use,  into 
which  they  had  no  right  to  enter.  They  believed  him 
divine,  and  worshipped  him.  Tlicy  were  a  nation  of 
toadies,  from  the  peasant  to  the  Pharaoh.  Though  the 
most  religious  people  who  ever  existed,  they  are  said  to 
have  been  faithless  to  their  foreign  engagements.  They 
were  true  to  them  at  home,  i(  for  no  other  reason  than  that 
the  forty-two  judges  would  decide  against  their  burial. 
This  was  a  great  calamity  ;  it  interfered  with  their  hope  of 
ctenial  life,  and  made  them  a  better  people  among  them- 
selves. They  were  industrious  and  skilful  in  working  the 
most  delicate  embroidery  and  jeweir)',  manufactured  glass 
and  fine  linen,  and  many  valuable  things  in  glass  and  stone 
that  are  very  beautiful.  The  antiquarian  is  amazed  at  the 
quantity  of  these  things  preserved  here. 

Boxes  of  paint  and  cases  of  cosmetics,  fish-hooks,  lux- 
urious chairs  and  t.nbles,  and  many  objects  of  art  enamelled 
and  in  mosaic,  cipture  and  bewilder  one  with  their  beauty 
and  curious  workmanship. 

I  shall  close  this  short  sketch  by  a  reference  to  the  mon- 
ument known  as  the  Tanis  stone.  This  stone  attracts  the 
attention  of  the  world  because,  with  all  the  information 
contained  in  the  one  found  at  Rosetta,  which  enabled 
Champollion  to  a  great  extent  to  decipher  their  hidden 


K>4 


CA/KO. 


lueroglyphics.  this  one,  being  perfect,  supplies  that  which 
was  defaced  and  lost  in  the  other.  Brugsch  Bey  and  Man* 
ettc  Bey  have  made  wonderful  use  o(  the  Tanis  stone  in 
unravelling  the  mysterious  language.  This  tablet  is  a 
decree  written  by  the  priests  in  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies, 
in  three  languages.  Hieroglyphic*.  Greek,  and  Demotk,  or 
the  popular  dialect.  As  usual,  it  commences  with  fulsome 
praise  of  the  god  who  is  their  king,  and  commends  him  for 
having  brought  back  to  Egypt  the  gods  that  had  been 
taken  away.  For  peaceful  intentions  as  welt  as  for  his  vic- 
tories in  war  he  has  their  applause.  They  then  give  him 
great  praise  for  skiving  the  country  from  famine,  and  dose 
by  declaring  the  Princess  Berenice,  his  viigin  daughter  who 
died  young,  a  divinity,  and  a  decree  that  her  virtues  there- 
after should  be  sung  by  a  choir  of  trained  virgins. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

MARRIAGE. 

Tbe  ODptia]  nremonicB  ol  E|typ( — RcmembraoM  of  fairT-Iike  •ccdcb— the 
proceeding*  at  a  MalioineUn  inarr>age-~The  cnMrio^e  ol  TouisoDfl— 
HU  tulci  at  an  Eoglinb  Kbolat  and  Ddmitet  ol  Cooper'*  novel* — 
DcicriptEon  of  one  of  ihe  most  gorgeou*  wedding*  ever  seen — Splendor 
eqluUing  that  o(  tbe  Arabian  Nighu. 

Having  been  the  guest  of  the  Khedive  and  of  wealthy 
Pachas  at  many  weddings,  I  propose  to  give  some  descrip- 
tion of  the  hymeneal  ceremony  and  festivities  as  practised 
in  Mahometan  countries  among  the  rich.  The  first  case 
selected  is  that  of  a  young  officer.  The  brjdc  was  a  young 
maiden  from  the  palace  of  the  Khedive.  The  usual  course 
U  that,  when  a  young  man  arrives  at  eighteen,  or  it  may  be 
before,  a  bride  is  looked  for  by  a  "khatibch,"  a  woman 
whose  regular  business  it  is  to  search  for  Jtuitable  matches, 
as  Abraham  sent  emissaries  to  look  for  a  wife  for  Isaac. 
The  khatibeh  finds  one  of  the  age  of  maturity,  usually 
thirteen,  sometimes  as  young  as  ten  years.  Returning,  she 
represents  the  bride  to  be  as  beautiful  as  an  houri,  with  the 
eyes  of  a  garclle  and  teeth  of  pearl,  and  always  with  more 
diamonds  and  riches  than  she  actually  possesses.  If  the 
bride  is  acceptable  the  woman  goes  back  and  represents  the 
young  man  as  graceful,  beautiful  in  dress,  fond  of  sweet 
things,  but  declares  that  he  cannot  enjoy  them  alone,  and 
that  tJic  chosen  bride  is  the  only  one  who  can  make  them 
tasteful  ;  she  describes  htm  as  domestic  in  his  tastes,  and 
says  that  he  lives  only  to  adorn  and  make  his  loved  one 
always  beautiful ;  his  sole  happiness  will  be  in  fondling  and 
caressing  her.     Both  parties  give  dower,  which  becomes 


M 


MARRIAGE. 


the  sole  properly  of  the  bride,  so  that  in  case  of  divorce  it 
is  bestowed  on  her.  On  the  duy  appointed  the  residence 
of  the  bride  is  brilliantly  illuminated,  an  entertainment  is 
prepared  (or  the  lady  friends  up-stairs,  and  a  sumptuous 
spread  below  for  the  gentlemen. 

The  bridegroom  goes  to  the  mosque  to  say  his  prayers 
surrounded  by  his  friends  in  crescent  form  and  preceded  by 
a  band  of  music,  while  great  numbers  of  flambeaux  light 
the  way.  The  prayer  over,  they  return  in  the  same  onler, 
playing  some  favorite  lovc-songs.  Ncaring  the  bridal 
house,  the  ladies  are  heard  welcoming  the  groom  in  their 
shrill,  quavering  cry  of  joy  called  sagharett.  It  is  a  noise 
of  universal  rejoicing  with  Eastern  women,  being  "  a  sharp 
utterance  of  the  voice  and  quick,  tremulous  motion  of  the 
tongue;"  its  novelty  is  not  unpleasant  to  a  stranger.  Soon 
after  the  groom  goes  up-stairs  to  the  harem,  which  simply 
means  the  apartments  of  the  ladies  of  a  Mahometan 
family.  The  ladies  arc  all  concealed  from  his  view,  but  the 
bride,  beautifully  drcMcd  in  her  Oriental  costume,  her  face 
covered  with  a  Cashmere  shawl  and  heavily  veiled,  is  stand- 
ing  with  the  khatibeh.  their  mutual  friend,  in  the  farther 
end  of  a  brilliantly  illuminated  salon  surrounded  with  rich 
silk  divans,  in  case  of  wealth,  as  in  this  instance.  The 
groom  upon  seeing  her  remains  at  the  threshold,  after 
exclaiming  "Allah!""  The  bride,  giving  him  time  to 
admire  the  toul  ensemble,  disappears,  and  so  reappears  and 
retires  until  she  ha5  displayed  seven  different  dresses,  each 
one  more  elegant  than  the  preceding,  I  may  mention  some 
of  these  dresses,  the  description  of  which  was  furnished 
me  by  a  lady.  The  first  consisted  of  rose  silk  pantaloons 
brocaded  in  gold,  with  tunic  of  similar  material,  the  bosom 
of  the  bride  hidden  under  a  m;is*  of  pearls  and  diamonds. 
A  belt  of  massive  gold  surrounded  her  figure,  a  white  veil 
brocaded  in  gold  covered  her  head  and  face,  leaving  the 
eyes  exposed.  The  wrists,  fingers,  and  reck  were  orna- 
mented with  brilliants,  and  over  all  was  a  gossamer  veil. 


■s 


■ii 


•^ 


f 


U A  Hit  I  AGE. 


107 


The  next  dress  was  lai^c  pantaloons  of  delicate  green 
satin  brocaded  with  the  finest  gold,  discovering  underneath 
a  delicate  little  rose-colored  naked  foot  imprisoned  in  violet 
velvet  slippers  embroidered  in  gold.  The  last  dress  was  a 
green  Turkish  embroidered  garment,  massive  gold  belt 
around  the  waist  fastened  by  a  buckle  of  brilliants,  and  a 
rose-colored  silk  paletot  falling  in  beautiful  folds  to  the 
knees  ;  in  the  middle  of  the  back  and  at  each  seam  was  an 
embroidered  wreath  of  fine  gold,  while  tassels  of  tresses  of 
gold  were  tastefully  arranged  about  the  whole.  The  dress 
was  so  arranged  as  to  disclose  the  neck  and  breasts,  which, 
being  while  as  snow  except  where  nature  always  tinges 
them  with  rose,  were  beautifully  modelled  because  always 
unencumbered  with  corsets.  If  the  young  aspirant  is 
pleased— and  how  could  it  be  otherwise? — with  all  these 
natural  and  artistic  displays,  he  advances,  of  course.  The 
khatibch  receives  a  present  and  retires,  leaving  the  pair 
alone  :  the  modesty  of  the  bride  makes  it  necessary  for  her 
to  retain  her  veil,  but  after  an  effort  the  groom  succeeds  in 
unveiling  her,  and  for  the  first  time  sees  her  face  and  form. 
He  then  says,  "  In  the  name  of  God,  the  compassionate, 
the  merciful,"  and  compliments  her  with  the  words,  "  The 
night  is  blessed."  Being  pleased,  he  remains  to  say  a 
prayer  ;  otherwise  it  is  proper  to  refuse  the  ofTered  beauty, 
and  to  retrace  bis  steps,  but  rarely  or  never  is  the  bride 
other  than  agreeable.  The  bride  is  seated  on  the  carpet, 
and,  standing  immediately  before  her,  the  groom  says  the 
prayer.  If  he  is  pleased  with  her  charms,  the  fact  is 
announced  to  the  ladies  awaiting  in  suspense,  and  the 
saghareet  (cry  of  joy)  is  soon  heard.  This  coming  to  the 
men  down-stairs,  they  too  are  delighted,  and  the  large 
crowd  on  the  street  is  equally  pleased,  so  that  cver>'body  is 
happy.  The  feasting  commences,  and  the  tnvalme,  the 
finest  nightingale,  is  heard  warbling  at  the  lattice  above,  so 
that  her  sweetest  love-song  can  be  heard  by  the  men 
below.     I  have  heard  on  these  occasions  the  most  cele- 


4 

I 


leS 


MARfllACE. 


bntted  singer  they  have,  who  is  called  the  "  Jenny  Lind  " 
of  Cairo,  and  really,  in  the  soft  and  feeling  notes  of  their 
peculiar  Asiatic  melodies,  the  singing  was  extremely  agree- 
able to  hear  for  a  time.  The  Arabs  listen  to  its  sweetness 
in  breathless  delight,  and  it  is  now  and  then  suddenly  inter- 
rupted with  one  impulse  by  both  men  and  women,  who 
I  give  expression  to  their  joy  with  boisterous  mirth,  as  some 
'  good  joke  is  perpetrated  at  the  expense  of  either  the  bride 
or  groom. 

Then  follow  the  Ghawazzee  (dancing  girls),  music,  smok- 
ing, and  supping  of  coffee.  There  is  unrestrained  enjoy- 
ment on  these  occasions.  The  Arabs  resemble  grown-up 
children  in  their  ways,  and  no  people  are  so  easily  amused. 
They  arc  always  pleased  when  a  foreigner  enters  heartily 
into  their  mirth,  and  his  surprise  at  some  of  their  doings 
particularly  delights  them. 

Presents  for  the  newly-married  pair  are  openly  carried 
through  the  streets  attended  with  mu&ic,  and  after  three 
days,  accompanied  by  a  cavalcade  of  friends,  the  bride  in 
a  covered  carriage  goes  to  the  house  of  the  bridegroom. 
The  guardian  at  the  abode  of  bliss  raises  the  carpet,  upon 
which  appropriate  verses  of  the  Koran  are  written ;  she 
stoops,  says  "  Allah,"  crosses  the  threshold,  and  becomes 
an  houri  under  the  watchful  care  of  a  vigilant  mother-in- 
law. 

Of  course  among  the  fellaheen  a  simpler  process  is  ob< 
served,  yet  the  story  already  told  is  but  a  type  in  the 
domestic  life  of  all  classes. 

Seven  years  ago  the  Khedive,  who  was  a  man  of  business 
and  acquainted  with  the  value  of  riches,  detennined  to 
absorb  all  the  immense  estates  left  by  Mchemet  Ali  to  his 
descendants.  Including  that  which  he  held  already,  these 
estates  amounted  to  one  fifth  of  the  land  of  Egypt,  with 
enormous  personal  wealth  added.  He  had  already  seized 
the  property  of  Halim,  his  uncle,  and  Mustapha,  his 
brother,  and  exiled  them,  with  a  promise  to  pay  for  the 


MAJf*/ACe. 


tlH) 


confiscated  estates.  The  Khedive  had  at  tliis  time  three 
sons  and  two  marriageable  daughters,  and  there  were  sev- 
eral young  And  intercutting  men  and  women  belonging  to 
other  branches  o(  the  family  equally  attractive  who  poa- 
scsscd  a  large  portion  of  this  property.  .All  these  young 
people,  particularly  the  women,  were,  for  the  first  time  in 
the  social  history  of  the  East,  well  educated  and  accom- 
plLihed.  There  was  nothing  more  natural  than  that  these 
handsome  young  people  should  cement  their  intimacy  by  a 
bond  stronger  than  mere  relationship.  I  think  in  senti- 
ment they  so  beautifully  harmonised  that  such  sordid  con- 
siderations as  those  of  folooit  (inoney)  never  disturbed 
them.  One  of  them  being  the  heir-apparent  to  the  throne, 
it  was  necessary  that  bis  nuptials  should  be  celebrated  on 
a  scale  commensurate  with  the  exalted  station  and  wealth 
of  the  parties.  It  was  then  that  the  world  was  called  upon 
to  furnish  all  that  taste  and  beauty  required  to  give  the 
weddings  a  brilliancy  unheard  of,  even  in  the  East,  and  in 
some  respects  the  powers  of  Aladdin's  lamp  were  eclipsed 
by  the  display  of  both  refined  and  barbaric  splendor,  to  the 
end  that  the  common  fellah  and  the  prince  might  enter 
with  heart  and  spirit  into  a  true  Oriental  celebration  which 
custom  h.id  so  often  sanctioned.  The  wedding  regalia  was 
something  marvellous,  and  the  dinners  and  suppers  ex< 
ceeded  anything  the  Khedive  had  previously  given.  The 
festivities  were  more  democratic  than  ever  before,  as  every- 
body was  invited.  The  richest  plate  and  rarest  delicacies, 
including  even  sugar-cured  hams,  contrary  to  Mahometan 
law,  graced  the  tables,  in  order  that  foreigners  as  well  as 
natives  might  be  delighted.  All  that  could  please  the  eye 
or  gratify  the  appetite  was  in  bountiful  profusion.  These 
dinners  and  suppers  were  often  graced  by  the  foreign  ladies, 
who  enjoyed  both  those  shared  with  the  gentlemen  and 
those  taken  with  the  ladies  of  the  royal  harem.  The 
Mahometan  lady,  being  forbidden  by  the  Prophet  ever 
to  be  seen  by  any  other  man  than  her  husband,  or  some 


110 


MAKRIAGE. 


man  of  nearest  kin,  wa«  never  a  participant  in  company 
with  the  men,  though  the  unprofitable  plensure  is  some- 
times accorded  these  women  of  a  glance  from  a  hidden 
corner  of  their  lattice. 

Of  all  the  weddings,  that  which  interested  mc  most  was 
that  of  Toussoun  Pacha.  It  was  because  he  spoke  and 
loved  the  English  language  that  I  knew  him  better  than  any 
other  and  took  a  deeper  interest  in  him.  These  nuptials 
were  very  splendid,  perhaps  more  so  than  any  of  the  others 
which  were  then  following  each  other  in  quick  5UCces»on. 
A  governess  had  taught  Tou&soun  English,  and  among  the 
first  books  he  enjoyed  were  Cooper's  novels.  He  formed  a 
romantic  idea  of  the  Indians,  and  it  was  pleasant  for  him 
to  meet  with  those  who  knew  them  from  personal  contact. 
An  agreeable  gentleman,  he  was  with  me  a  great  deal,  and 
I  often  gratified  him  with  extended  accounts  of  the  Ameri- 
can savages.  Relating  incidents  of  his  life,  he  mentioned 
that,  when  a  boy,  dressing  as  an  Indian  chief,  he  caused 
great  terror  among  the  ladies  of  his  mother's  harem.  They 
thought  Iblis  (the  Dark  Spirit)  had  invaded  the  sanctity  of 
their  secluded  life.  While  amusing  himself  in  this  way,  he 
fell  down  a  lofty  stairway  and  injured  his  spine,  a  mishap 
from  which  he  never  fully  recovered,  and  it  was  no  doubt 
this  accident  that  shortened  his  days  :  he  died  soon  after 
his  marriage  with  the  daughter  of  the  Khedive. 

Crossing  the  Nile  and  following  the  broad  avenue  of  the 
lebbek  and  acacia  trees  for  a  mile,  we  arrived  at  a  singular- 
looking  Arab  building  without  external  architecture,  but 
within  luxuriously  embellished  and  the  home  of  refinement 
and  comfort.  After  visiting  Toussoun  I  can  speak  of  his 
hearty  welcome  and  true  Eastern  hospitality.  The  beauti- 
ful Fatima,  the  second  daughter  of  the  Khedive,  widow  of 
the  prince,  ts  now  the  sole  occupant  of  this  palatial  resi- 
dence. 

On  the  occasion  of  her  marriage,  during  the  splendid 
f6tes,  this  light  of  the  harem,  a  blue-eyed  fair}*,  is  s.tid  to 


MARRIAGE. 


Ill 


have  dazzled,  by  the  brilliancy  of  her  attire  and  her  marvel- 
lous grace,  the  largest  assembly  of  Arab  and  foreign  ladies 
ever  gathered  together  in  Egypt.  Escorted  by  a  bevy  of 
beauties,  she  walked  over  cloih  of  gold,  showered  over  with 
pieces  of  gold  thrown  from  concealed  hands,  on  the  way 
through  the  beautiful  Palace  of  Abdeen  to  her  rcceplJon- 
room.  One  of  the  features  of  the  festivities  was  that 
Ismail,  who  had  great  affection  for  his  daughters,  in  cele- 
brating this  occasion  invited  a  large  party  of  his  particular 
friends,  foreign  and  native,  to  a  private  opera.  The  guests 
entered  an  extensive  palace  adjoiningthe  opera-house  at  the 
Palace  of  Kazr  Nil.  Upon  tht-ir  arrival  they  were  intro- 
duced into  a  handsomely  decorated  salon.  At  the  close  of 
this  delightful  entertainment  the  party  returned  to  the 
rcception-roonriH  to  find  ihcm  transformed,  as  if  by  magic, 
into  one  of  the  most  beautifully  set  supper-rooms  I  had 
ever  seen.  The  delicacies  were  as  agreeably  served  as  the 
general  effect  was  beautiful,  and  to  add  grace  to  it  and  to 
show  the  pleasure  cxpericncctl  in  honor  of  so  interesting  an 
event,  the  Khedive  in  person  expressed  his  happiness  to 
each  guest.  During  my  long  acquaintance  with  htm,  1  often 
noticed  these  touching  manifestations  of  true  manly  feeling 
so  unusual  in  Eastern  men,  and  especially  in  despots,  and 
they  impressed  those  who  knew  him  best  in  his  private  rela- 
tions as  real  exhibitions  of  a  gentle  kind-heartedness. 

The  next  scene,  after  the  rich  presents  were  exhibited, 
according  to  custom,  was  the  passage  of  the  bride  to  her 
new  home.  This  is  done  with  great  ceremony.  The  pro- 
cession was  preceded  by  men  engaged  in  mock  fights  and 
other  amusing  demonstrations  (formerly  it  was  the  custom 
of  these  people  to  run  swords  through  their  arms  and  cany 
them  bleeding  through  the  circuitous  march,  and  to  perform 
many  other  terrible  ceremonies  now  happily  forgotten). 
Next  came  several  bands  of  music  followed  by  a  battalion 
of  troops  in  ancient  steel-clad  armor ;  then  several  regi- 
ments of  horse  and  infantry.      In  advance  of  the  bride 


1 II 


MA  Jt  ft  I  AGE. 


were  the  mother  of  the  Khedive  and  his  queens  in  their 
variegated  stagecoaches,  the  bride  being  inclosed  in  a  car- 
rii^c  covered  with  Cashmere  shawls.  This  was  followed 
by  an  innumerable  cavalcade  of  ladles  in  their  best  convey- 
ances. The  carriages  were  open,  and  the  marvellous  dis- 
play of  lavender,  pink,  orange,  and  saffron  toilettes,  and 
the  wenlth  of  the  women,  which  is  always  in  brilliants  and 
rich  jcwc)r>',  was  something  magical.  The  opportunity 
offered  the  women  for  display  is  only  on  such  occasions  as 
the  marriage  of  a  princess.  The  procession  moving  slowly, 
the  spectators  who  lined  the  way  could  form  a  very  good 
idea  of  the  beauty  of  those  in  high  life,  as  the  veils  were  of 
the  finest  transparent  tissue,  through  which  it  was  easy  to 
see  the  fair  faces  and  rosy  checks  of  the  young  beauties. 
Notwithstanding  that  their  eyes  were  heightened  in  bril- 
liancy by  the  khohol  and  their  hands  and  fingers  were 
stained  with  henna,  though  some  were  beautiful,  yet  there 
were  many  who  could  not  be  called  so.  They  were  of  all 
colors,  from  snowy  white  to  dark  ebony  ;  many  had  blue 
eyes,  and  not  a  few  had  golden  hair,  now  and  then  shaded 
by  3  deep  red.  Along  the  course  silver  money  was  thrown 
to  the  expectant  Arabs,  provisions  from  camels  distributed, 
and  buffaloes  killed  for  the  numerous  poor.  Thus  the 
curious  procession  wended  its  way  through  the  crowded 
streets  of  Cairo  to  the  home  of  the  fair  Fatima. 

The  closing  scene  of  all  these  festivities  was  a  grand  ball 
at  theGeezeerah  Palace,  the  residence  of  the  Khedive  when 
a  prince.  As  many  as  5000  guests  aiuisted  at  this  ffitc. 
mostly  the  foreign  population  of  Egypt,  and  the  numerous 
"  strangers  sojourning  in  the  land."  who  were  attracted  to 
witness  the  marvellous  scene  of  variegated  lights  and 
flowery  beauty  in  which  these  Eastern  people  excel ;  these 
lights  extended  over  the  iron  bridge  across  the  Nile  and 
through  the  broad  avenues,  around  the  vast  garden  sur- 
rounding this  palace,  in  which  one  was  lost  in  the  blaze 
after  entering  it.     The  vestibule  and  the  marble  stairway 


MASKlACk. 


"3 


with  their  Parian  statues  and  rare  exotics,  lured  the  guest 
with  delight  into  the  great  assemblage  of  men  and  women 
in  the  magnificent  salons.  The  flash  of  light  upon  the 
frescoed  ceilings  and  paintini^,  the  beautiful  mantels  of 
various-colored  marble  and  moresque  windows  and  doors, 
made  it  an  agreeable  scene  for  the  stranger,  and  one  which 
he  would  keep  long  in  remembrance.  Behind  the  divan  of 
the  Khedive  were  two  large  vases  of  the  richest  Sfevres,  with 
admirable  likenesses  on  them  of  Napoleon  and  Eugenic. 
Traversing  the  grand  salons,  now  a  gay  and  festive  scene, 
at  the  farther  end  of  the  palace  the  attention  of  the  ob- 
server was  arrested  by  the  apartments  of  the  French 
Empress  Eugenie,  now  dimly  lighted,  which  were  so  taste< 
fully  fitted  up  for  her  on  the  occasion  of  the  opening  of  the 
Suez  Canal.  A  melancholy  recollection  now  shadowed 
them  in  remembrance  of  the  great  sorrow  of  the  unfortu- 
nate Empress.  A  blaze  of  fireworks  of  wondrous  beauty 
closed  these  enchanting  scenes,  whose  splendor  is  rarely 
matched  in  any  country.  During  these  celebrations  there 
.  was,  for  the  invited  guests  in  the  palaces  of  the  Khedive 
and  his  family,  and  surrounding  them  for  the  special  pleas- 
ure of  the  fellaheen,  a  fairy-like  display  that  requires  the 
delirium  of  a  poet  to  picture  it  in  its  lavish  waste  and  ex- 
travagance. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  HAREM. 

Tbe  inaiACei  ol  ihe  hArEm— The  tynnny  of  life  and  death  exercised  over 
wofoeo— What  ihcydo  «nd  how  (hey  liwe  in  (heir  pflsonf— Prewtraiion 
of  beauty  the  chief  alin  of  life— The  aiti  of  the  lollclte— Elutern  idea  of 
beauty— JeaIou«y  In  the  barcm —Cruelty  of  Mahomeian  husbands. 

The  ladies  constituting  the  families  of  the  late  Khedive 
Ismail  Pacha  and  of  his  numerous  sons  are  in  niuny  respects 
an  exception  to  a  general  rule,  in  their  accomplishments, 
education,  and  manners.  While  they  have,  in  many  re- 
spects, European  customs  and  habits,  yet  these  arc  mod- 
ified by  restraints  of  seclusion  ;  and  they  share  with  their 
sisters  of  all  classes  the  odious  law  of  the  Prophet,  that  they 
should  be  held  prisoners  under  a  rigid  surveillance  of  guar- 
dians especially  prepared  for  the  unholy  office. 

Statements  are  nude  th,-Lt  serious  misunderstandings 
often  occur  among  them  in  consequence  of  this  oppression. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  the  beautiful  young  daughter  of 
the  Khedive,  who  was  accustomed  until  thirteen  years  of 
age  to  visit  the  opera  without  n  veil,  rebelled  when  the 
time  came  for  incarceration,  and  that  she  lamented  in  tears 
her  unfortunate  fate.  Marrying  soon  after  her  seclusion, 
she  lived  but  a  few  months.  Universally  the  Moslem 
women  know  nothing  of  life,  being  simply  pieces  of  furni- 
ture in  their  homes.  With  no  education,  they  are  strangers 
to  the  interests  and  affairs  of  their  masters  ;  decked  out 
with  fine  dresses  and  jewelry,  they  are  sensuously  content. 
They  amuse  themselves  in  crunching  melon-seeds,  eating 
candy,  smoking  cigarettes,  and  showing  their  jewelry  and 


THE  HAREM. 


"5 


fine  toilettes  to  their  (n'cnds.  Living  a  life  of  ease  and' 
indolence,  they  arc  never  supposed  to  soil  their  hands  with 
labor  or  rack  their  brains  with  thought.  When  they  toil, 
their  sole  occupation  is  to  beautify  themselves.  When 
young  they  arc  welt  made  ;  their  extremities  are  fine  and 
their  han<^  are  soft,  white,  and  supple,  and  they  might  be 
likened  to  the  budding  flower  which  opens  at  the  first  rays 
of  the  morning  sun.  Their  complexions  are  white,  and 
their  checks  tinged  with  rose ;  their  eyes  are  sometimes 
blue,  but  that  is  exceptional  ;  they  arc  generally  black  as 
jet,  and  when  fully  open  are  of  almond  form  and  full  of 
sensibility  and  delicate  sweetness.  They  never  conceal 
them,  and  gallant  men  often  confess  that  they  have  inter- 
fered with  their  repose  of  mind.  It  is  pleasing  to  speak  of 
these  beauties,  for  they  have  few  to  admire  even  this  much 
of  their  comeliness.  The  houses,  many  of  them,  are  ele- 
gant, and  so  constructed  as  to  completely  conceal  the 
bidden  glance  of  the  fair  who  are  doomed  to  eternal  isola- 
tion when  without  a  veil,  as  no  woman  can  be  seen  lawfully 
by  any  other  man  than  her  husband.  She  is  forbidden  the 
homage  that  all  nature  demands.  Controlled  by  a  power- 
ful hand,  and  bound  irrevocably  by  custom,  she  is  com- 
pelled not  only  to  kiss  the  hand  of  her  tyrant,  but  to  hug 
the  chain  which  manacles  her. 

This  despotism  is  the  more  extraordinary  on  the  part  of 
the  men,  inasmuch  as  they  pretend  to  feel  delight  in  beau- 
tiful objects  of  nature  ;  they  will  watch  the  play  of  bird« 
for  hours,  and  think  it  a  crime  to  disturb  or  deprive  them 
of  the  free  air  they  breathe.  Yet  they  incarcerate  the 
loveliest  and  most  beautiful  of  all  the  Creator's  works,  and 
think  it  a  great  favor  to  permit  woman's  enjoyment  of  a 
flowering  shrub  in  some  hidden  recess.  In  tearing  aside  the 
impenetrable  curtain  of  the  harem,  it  is  only  to  see  its 
inmates,  like  the  flower  which  the  heated  Khamsin  touches, 
withering  under  a  jealous  despot  whom  the  law  arms  with 
complete  power,  and  whose  cruel  suspicion  is  endured  tn 


ii6 


THE  HAREM. 


slavish  «ilenc«.  Sudi  is  the  rule  of  custom,  which  alone 
regulates  society  among  Mahometans,  if  intercourse  be- 
tween the  sexes  there  can  be  dignified  with  so  exalted  a 
term.  The  women  rarely  leave  their  homes,  or  even  enjoy 
the  beauties  of  nature,  as  do  the  men,  who  profess  great 
love  for  rare  exotics  and  beautiful  flowers.  Tiiey  are  em- 
ployed in  preserving  their  complexions,  the  delicate  tint  of 
which  is  never  blemished  by  the  light  of  the  sun,  and 
enhancing  their  beauty  by  cvcrj-  means  that  long-studied 
art  can  effect,  only  to  please  one  whose  delight  is  assured 
-when  he  knows  that  his  prisoner  \%  safely  confined.  It 
seems  incredible  to  men  used  to  our  Western  civJliiiation  that 
in  the  nineteenth  century,  among  so  large  a  portion  of  the 
human  family  there  should  be  an  impassable  barrier  drawn 
between  the  sexes,  when  ever)-  manly  inspiration  dictates  a 
generous  sympathy  for  the  delicate  and  gr.iceful  woman 
whose  instincts  prompt  her  to  trust  in  man  as  the  natural 
protector  of  her  sex.  Here  she  finds  in  him,  on  the  con- 
trary, a  violator  of  a  great  law  of  nature,  who  assumes  the 
right  not  only  to  shackle  her  mind,  but  alM>  to  confine  her 
person  by  a  law  of  his  own  creation.  So  binding  Ls  the  law 
that  no  man  shall  see  the  face  of  a  woman  not  his  property, 
that  in  case  of  a  violation  of  its  sanctity,  it  looks  with  favor 
on  the  action  of  the  injured  husband  should  he  solace  his 
jealousy  with  the  death  of  the  intruder.  It  is  not  even 
permitted  to  recognise  a  woman  outside  of  the  harem.  In 
iipitc  of  strenuous  precautions  and  llie  difficulties  which 
«nviron  them,  Moslem  women,  chiding  the  greatest  watch- 
fulness, arc  fond  of  coquetting.  like  their  Western  sisters. 
Though  entirely  uncultivated,  they  have  delicate  and  pretty 
-ways,  and  show,  as  if  by  accident,  their  beautiful  dresses 
Jtnd  jewelry  in  opening  the  black  silk  habarah  which  envel- 
ops them  when  on  the  street.  No  women  excel  them  in 
the  language  of  the  eyes,  which  with  them  arc  always  lar^e 
iind  wide  open. 

Society  among  the  inmates  of  the  harem  means  simply 


THE  UARFM. 


"7 


smoking  cigarettes  and  pipes,  and  the  most  trivial  amuse- 
ments. Instead  of  the  sparkling  conversation  and  pleasant 
music  with  which  the  sexes  reciprocally  entertain  each 
other  among  Western  people,  horrible  screamings,  the 
monotonous  noise  of  drums,  and  the  clang  of  tambourines 
arc  here  the  solace  of  woman  in  her  hours  of  ease.  The 
boasted  luxury  of  the  palaces  oflers  in  its  isolation  no 
attraction  to  a  refined  nature.  This  life  makes  people 
prematurely  old  ;  a  man  of  fifty  is  wrinkled  and  superan- 
nuated, and  a  woman  at  thirty  has  passed  her  meridian. 
No  one  works  unless  compelled  to  it,  as  tranquillity  of  mind 
and  person  best  pleases  the  Oriental  taste.  They  ignore 
the  pass.agc  of  time,  which  never  disturbs  them  with  the 
cry  of  bukrah  (to-morrow) ;  yet  people  write  of  the  fascina. 
ttons  of  Eastern  life.  It  may  be  the  climate,  with  its 
sunny  sky  and  the  quickening  air  of  the  desert,  or  possibly 
the  stagnation  of  existence  which  deludes  them.  It  cannot 
be  the  effort  of  thinking  or  of  feeling  that  awakens  pleasing 
impressions,  for  there  is  nothing  here  that  docs  not  clash 
with  every  sentiment,  habit,  and  custom  of  intellectual  life. 
Society  is  the  isolation  of  a  prison,  though  the  captives  are 
surrounded  by  numbers  of  people.  The  philosopher  resid- 
ing in  the  East  is  forced  to  meditate  bitterly  upon  the 
waste  of  humanity  around  him.  Only  an  anchorite  whose 
religious  duty  consists  in  counting  beads  could  be  charmed 
with  such  monotony  and  silence.  The  man  of  energy  and 
thought  would  think  it  a  cruel  punishment  to  be  forced  to 
undergo  the  ordeal  of  intellectual  st:ignation  amid  a  people 
whose  ignorance  and  indolence  fill  their  minds  with  egotism, 
obstinacy,  and  self-importance. 

It  is  a  common  thing  for  Egyptians  who  have  been  edu- 
cated by  order  of  the  government  in  the  best  colleges  in 
Europe  to  come  back  to  Eastern  life  and  immediately  throw 
away  their  books,  abandon  intercourse  with  intelligent  for- 
eigners, shut  themselves  in  a  harem  among  ignorant  women, 
and  there  end  their  existence.     This  is  probably  what  they 


I 


Ii8 


rnE  JtAREM. 


mean  when  they  say  that  "  in  their  education  of  mind  they 
do  not  neglect  the  heart."  An  Eastern  man  will  sit  for 
hours  inhaling  the  p«rfumc  of  a  sweet  flower  and  enjoying 
the  music  of  a  fountain  (murmuring  at  the  time  a  chapter  in 
the  Koran,  without  stopping  to  understand  its  meaning) 
and  the  beautiful  objects  of  nature  which  Allah  has  spread 
before  him.  He  enjoys  to-day.  but  never  thinks  of  pre- 
serving objects  which  please  him  in  sculpture  or  painting, 
however  dear  to  him,  for  the  sake  of  the  pleasure  they 
might  give  in  the  future.  This  their  writers  call  a  life  rich 
in  sensations. 

Eastern  women  study  beauty  of  person,  believing  that 
the  sole  end  of  their  life  and  their  mission  on  earth  is  to 
bear  children.  No  wonder  that  the  women  create  in  the 
minds  of  tlieir  masters  that  fear  of  infidelity  of  which 
Mahometans  complain.  Whenever  this  calamity  over- 
takes them,  as  it  sometimes  docs,  it  must  be  held  by  every 
fair  mind  to  be,  so  far  as  the  injured  men  arc  concerned,  a 
just  recompense  for  their  suspicious  and  cruel  treatment 
of  their  women.  Though  the  same  laws  and  customs 
^control  all  classes,  yet  it  would  be  a  mistake  to  think  that 
vomen  In  common  life  possess  all  the  loveliness  and  beauty 
of  the  favored  few,  or  that  they  spend  their  time  in  adorn- 
ing their  persons.  The  women  of  the  fcUah  class  when 
young  are  the  perfection  of  symmetry.  They  soon,  how- 
ever, lose  their  suppleness  and  good  looks,  from  hard  labor 
and  maternity,  in  premature  age,  instead  of  preserving  tile 
rosy  freshness  of  those  who  live  in  luxury.  They  have  the 
same  dark  brown  skin  as  the  fellah,  and  labor  alike  with 
him,  exposed  to  the  eternal  sun  which  dyes  their  tawny 
complexions  a  still  darker  hue  ;  and  like  the  men  they  wear 
a  blue  cotton  dress,  the  men  binding  it  round  the  waist,  and 
the  women  draping  themselves  in  its  loose  folds.  The 
style  of  dress  of  .ill  cLisscs  is  unvarying.  Like  their  relig- 
ion, it  is  the  law,  and  their  dreams  arc  never  disturbed  by 
the  rapid  changes  of  fashion.     When  on  the  street  it  is 


TUB  UAREM, 


"9 


amusing  to  see  the  most  elegant  Udy,  apparently  a  black  or 
white  package,  waddling  along  in  yellow  slippers  with 
pointed  toes,  and  their  large,  languid  black  eyes  glittering 
with  curiosity  at  sight  of  a  stranger.  The  eyes  are  the 
only  features  seen,  and  even  these  would  be  veiled  by  law 
also,  but  that  there  t!t  so  close  a  similarity  In  the  appear- 
ance of  women  when  clothed  in  the  habarah  that  their 
nearest  kin  cannot  distinguish  them. 

Juvenal  snys  that  the  Roman  ladies  heightened  the 
beauty  of  their  eyes  by  dyeing,  and  we  all  know  the  advice 
of  Ischomachus  to  his  wife  on  this  interesting  subject,  as 
related  by  Plato  in  one  of  the  Socratic  dialogues.  It  is  a 
traditional  art  with  the  Eastern  women  of  all  classes  and 
ages  to  enlarge  the  eye  and  make  it  blacker,  if  possible,  by 
tingcing  the  eyelashes  and  eyebrows  with  the  khohot  or 
antimony,  powder,  which  is  mixed  with  the  vapors  of  the 
lamp  or  smoke  of  amber.  The  fair  one  who  knows  this 
cunning  device  can  imagine  how  the  deep  shading  of  the 
eye  heightens  the  extreme  whiteness  of  the  complexion  of 
these  secluded  women,  when  beheld  under  the  illusion  of 
the  veil.  Unfortunately,  the  coloring  does  not  bear  close 
inspection,  and  gives  the  face  a  severe  and  saddened  expres- 
sion. It  has  been  ascertained  that  this  art  was  sanctioned 
by  immemorial  usage  among  the  ancient  Eg^'ptians.  as  many 
of  their  mummies  are  found  with  stained  eyelids  and  lashes 
like  those  of  the  modern  Egyptians.  It  has  always  been 
an  Eastern  custom  not  only  to  dye  with  henna  the  sur- 
roundings of  the  eye,  but  also  to  tint  the  rosy  nails  and 
palms  of  the  hand  and  the  toe-nails  and  bottoms  of  the 
feet.  The  women  of  the  country  arc  accustomed  to  prick 
peculiarly  formed  pictures  with  Indian-ink  upon  their  chins 
and  the  b.icks  of  their  hands.  Before  decor,attng  the  soles 
of  their  feet,  already  delicate  among  the  refined,  they  arc 
rubbed  with  a  little  instrument  made  of  clay  until  they  be- 
come still  softer  and  smoother,  and  therefore  better  fit  to 
absorb  the  preparation.     The  dye  is  made  of  the  flower  of 


lie 


I 


the  hcnna-trcc.  grown  in  Eg>'pt.  and  pulverized.  WHien 
used  it  is  diluted  in  water,  afterward  rubbed  on  and  covered 
for  an  hour.  It  then  becomes  of  an  orange  color,  which  to 
the  eye  of  the  Egyptian  is  vcr>'  beautiful.  Wilkinson  says 
that  the  priests  of  the  ancient  religion  of  Egypt  shaved  the 
entire  person,  thinking  it  made  them  clean  and  pure  in 
approaching  the  throne  of  God.  The  faithful  sons  of  the 
Prophet  are  followers  of  this  custom  to  a  great  extent. 
They  sometimes  leave  a  tuft  of  hair  on  the  heads  of  their 
boys,  that  an  angel  may  by  it  take  them  to  heaven  in  case 
of  death,  and  the  men  often  let  their  beards  grow,  which  in 
old  age  arc  considered  a  great  ornament.  The  women  cul- 
tivate the  hair  on  their  heads  with  loving  care,  for  it  is  con- 
sidered by  ihcm  universally  a  thing  of  beauty  ;  but  in  order 
that  all  roughness  may  be  smoothed  and  the  skin  have  a 
beautiful  polish  over  the  whole  person,  the  hair  is  entirely 
removed  elsewhere.  This  care  is  particularly  taken  if 
nature  should  be  at  fault  .ind  give  them  any  itemblunce  of  a 
beani  when  the  same  depilatory  process  is  used  to  make  it 
disappear. 

The  Eastern  notion  of  female  beauty  is  a  large  and  round 
person,  and  next  to  a  beautiful  polish  of  the  skin  the  ideal 
is  to  be  stout  even  to  fatness.  Tile  method  of  attaining  so 
desirable  an  end  is  reduced  to  a  science.  Nothing  annoys 
the  Oriental  woman  so  much  after  marriage  as  a  slim  and 
tapering  shape  ;  and  she  employs  every  effort  to  change 
that  symmetry  which  adds  so  much  grace  and  loveliness  to 
the  Western  lady.  In  order  to  attain  so  happy  a  condition, 
women  make  great  use  of  the  nuts  of  the  cocoa-tree  and  the 
bulbs  of  what  the  Arabs  call  the  chamere-tree,  which  grow* 
abundantly  in  Arabia  and  Hgypt.  These  are  ground  to  a 
powder  and  mixed  with  sugar,  which  makes  to  their  taste  a 
delicious  comfit,  and  of  this  they  cat  great  quantities, 
Notwithstanding  this  effort  to  change  their  form,  they  do 
not  always  get  into  such  flesh  ,is  to  do  aw.iy  with  all  beauty 
of  contour,  and  even  when   married  many  of  them  hive 


TUB  HAREM. 


lai 


graceful  figures  and  a  fresh  softness  and  fairness  of  com- 
plexion which  make  them  very  attractive.  In  giving  these 
experiences  of  their  inner  life  it  ought  to  be  said  that  one 
means  of  possessing  their  charms  as  long  as  po&sible  is  the 
attention  they  pay  to  perfect  cleanliness.  No  people  in  the 
world  art^  more  devoted  to  the  bath  (which  is  a  religious 
institution  with  them)  than  the  middle  classes  and  higher 
orders  of  the  people  of  the  East.  They  love  perfumes  ;  it 
is  a  matter  of  deep  delight  in  their  ever^'-day  life  to  inhale 
the  odor  of  attar  of  roses  and  swcct-smclling  flowers.  But 
of  all  these  the  most  agreeable  to  sight  and  smell  is  the 
universal  henna,  which  difl'uses  its  odors  and  embellishes 
every  garden,  however  small.  Like  the  lotos  in  the  case  of 
the  women  of  ancient  Kgypt,  the  flower  of  the  henna  is 
valued  by  those  of  modern  Egj-pt.  The  ladies  carr>'  it  in 
their  hands,  perfume  their  bosoms  with  it,  and  offer  the 
beautiful  flower  to  their  neighbors.  Tlicy  arc  never- failing 
companionft  in  their  apartments.  The  significance  of  the 
fiower  is  that  it  is  the  emblem  of  fertility,  the  want  of 
which  to  the  Eastern  woman  is  the  most  dreaded  of  misfort- 
unes. So  much  appropriated  by  the  women,  it  is  consid- 
ered exclusively  their  own.  It  may  not  be  out  of  place 
to  speak  of  the  sable  watch-dogs  of  the  abode  of  bliss. 
Eunuchs  are  ;is  a  rule  the  willing  instruments  of  their  mas- 
ters, but  in  m.tny  instances  they  arc  said  to  be  more  obedi- 
ent to  the  lady  over  whom  they  are  supposed  to  have  arbU 
trary  power  ;  in  either  case  they  constitute  a  dark  stain  on 
the  East.  It  is  often  tndy  said  that  woman  \%  frequently 
at  the  bottom  of  much  that  is  great  and  good,  and  some- 
times of  much  which  is  bad.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  this 
refined  barbarism  of  the  eunuch  originated  with  a  woman — 
Semiramis,  the  noted  queen  of  antiquity,  celebrated  for 
beauty  and  sensuality  as  well  as  for  her  skill  in  war  and 
government. 

In  Egypt  and  other  Mahometan  countries  the  birth  of 
a  female  child  is  a  source  of  regret  and  sorrow.     Girls  are 


I 


1 


TUB  IfARl 


never  educated  in  the  East,  except  when  they  have  the 
good  fortune  to  be  the  children  of  an  enlightened  potentate 
or  other  notabilitj*,  such  as  the  late  Khedive  Ismail.  As  a 
rule,  women  are  slaves  or  daughters  of  slaves,  with  no  edu- 
cation to  elevate  either  sentiment  or  character.  Rarely  or 
never  leaving  their  homes  or  the  city  in  which  they  arc 
born,  never  travelling  under  any  circumstances  for  pleasure 
or  health,  the  unfortunate  girls  live  only  to  be  sold  into 
slavery,  very  often  for  small  sums  of  money.  As  the 
inmate  of  a  harem,  the  woman  is  made  to  stand,  as  a  rule, 
and  wait  before  her  master  when  enjoying  his  repast,  pre- 
pared with  her  own  hands,  and  fill  his  pipe  when  that 
luxury  is  to  be  indulged  in  ;  and  finally,  in  the  hour  of 
siesta  she  watches  oi*er  hts  repose  and  rubs  the  soles  of  his 
feet  to  soothe  him  into  still  more  profound  sleep.  She 
does  all  this  and  more  to  retain  his  favor,  and  it  may  be 
readily  imagined  that,  with  her  peculiar  ideas  and  tntining, 
■when  her  purpose  is  thwarted  she  becomes  wicked  and  vin- 
dictive under  the  inspiration  of  jealousy.  This  Ls  often  ex- 
cited to  the  greatest  fury  lest  a  hated  rival  should  cause  an 
unjust  divorce.  There  is  nothing  so  terrible  to  her  mind  as 
the  law  authorizing  divorce  by  the  simple  word  of  the  man. 
,zs  it  often  plunges  her  into  dire  poverty  when  her  beauty 
begins  to  fade.  Thoroughly  imbued  with  superstition,  her 
first  determination  is  to  .seek  the  learned  in  weaving  dark 
spells.  Believing  that  her  rival  has  enlisted  one  in  the 
same  secret  service,  she  is  even  willing  to  call  upon  Iblis 
himself,  and  thereby  sell  her  soul  to  the  demon  in  order  to 
accomplish  her  design.  Failing  in  this,  she  does  not  stand 
upon  ceremony,  and  nothing  but  the  death  of  her  rival  can 
now  appease  her  vindictive  soul,  though  the  bowstring  and 
muddy  waters  of  the  Nile  may  be  her  doom  in  consequence. 
She  knows  that  others  have  faced  the  ordeal,  and  she  too 
seeks  her  revenge  by  a  potion  in  the  coffee  of  the  rival. 
Instances  of  this  have  been  related  ;  but  not  being  per- 
sonally acquainted  with  the  facts,  I  do  not  mention  them. 


THE  UAREM, 


laj 


To  realize  the  sacred  privacy  or  the  harem,  it  t!i  only 
necessary  to  rcmcinber  that  when  a  rival  dies  by  poison,  or 
children  are  strangled,  or  a  slave  is  killed  by  bad  treatment, 
which  sometimt's  happens,  the  facts  arc  rarely  known,  (or 
the  simple  reason  that  there  ts  no  one  who  dares  revciil  the 
secret.  There  is  no  law  which  penetrates  into  the  harem's 
privacy,  and  even  if  there  were  so  slender  a  protection, 
public  opinion  is  perfectly  ready  to  prevent  interference. 
Every  man  is  sovereign  to  do  as  he  pleases  with  his  own 
household.  As  there  is  no  register  of  births,  neither  is 
there  any  of  deaths.  No  certificate  of  a  doctor  or  official  is 
nccessarj'.  This  is  particularly  the  case  when  the  master 
visits  vengeance  for  crime  committed  by  the  inmates  of  the 
harem.  He  can  thus  accomplish  his  will  and  prevent  scan- 
daL  When  an  irresponsible  and  jealous  tyrant  is  the  sole 
arbiter,  it  can  be  imagined  how  deep  and  dark  the  deeds 
may  be. 

To  show  how  vague  is  the  Mahometan  idea  of  the 
binding  force  of  matrimony,  and  how  easily  these  people 
stifle  natural  ties  when  their  interests  or  their  inclinations 
dictate  the  introduction  of  a  multiplicity  of  wives  into  their 
harem,  an  instance  by  no  means  uncommon  within  the 
knowledge  of  the  writer  will  be  given.  An  officer  of  fine 
sense,  well  instructed  and  of  good  character,  who  had 
received  much  kindness  from  me,  desiring,  as  he  said,  to 
make  some  return,  suggested  that  the  only  way  it  could  be 
done  was  simply  to  take  another  wife.  He  coolly  said  that 
his  mother  h;id  advised  him  to  do  so,  because  this  would 
enable  him  to  give  a  grand  "  fantasia"  (this  it  a  wotd  the 
Egyptian  m.ign.itcs  use  for  their  ffites  or  celebrations  when 
addressing  a  foreigner).  As  their  weddings  are  alw.iys 
attended  with  great  rejoicings  and  feastings,  in  which  they 
spend  large  sums,  the  occasion  would  enable  him  to  invite 
me  as  the  honored  guest.  Not  fully  appreciating  the  inter- 
esting part  I  was  called  upon  to  play,  however,  I  deter- 
mined to  refuse  the  proffered  honor,  and  gave  my  reasons 


% 


IS4 


THE  HAKEM. 


for  declining.  Upon  asking  the  Arab  if  he  were  not 
pleased  with  his  present  wife.  I  received  the  reply  that  she 
wu  a  good  wonnan  and  a  good  wi(c ;  that  she  had  home 
him  several  children,  among  them  a  son,  and  was  as  beauti- 
ful as  an  houri.  To  this  1  ansuercd  that  1  did  not  believe 
it  was  right  to  fill  his  home  with  many  women  ;  that  I 
"should  consider  his  invitation  an  insult  instead  of  an 
honor;"  and  that  if  he  were  an  ignorant  Arab,  who  had 
never  associated  with  enlightened  men  and  acted  merely  in 
obedience  to  his  Mahometan  faith,  there  might  be  some 
excuse ;  but  that  for  the  reasons  given  such  an  act  coutd 
not  be  perpetrated  without  crime.  The  other  answered 
that  if  not  now,  it  would  be  absolutely  necessaiy  for  him  to 
take  a  new  wife  in  the  early  future,  because  women  grow 
old  and  ugly  in  their  countr>' sooner  than  in  others,  and  that 
it  was  obeying  a  great  law  of  nature  that  men  should  have 
young  wives  to  increase  and  multiply  as  commanded  by  the 
Koran,  since  the  Prophet,  in  case  they  could  support  them, 
allowed /cMr.  Me  was  then  asked  if  he  introduced  another 
wife  into  his  family,  was  it  not  certain  that  his  present  wife 
would  be  moved  by  the  same  feeling  of  indignation  that 
would  stir  him  in  case  she  demanded  an  additional  hus- 
band ?  No,  he  thought  not,  as  she  was  ignorant,  and  her 
peculiar  training  was  otherwise.  She  knew  it  was  criminal, 
and  that  the  law  visited  instant  and  terrible  punishment  for 
any  violation  of  the  marital  rights  of  her  husband.  I)ut  he 
was  told  that  it  was  his  fault  that  she  was  ignorant,  and 
that  he  would  be  equally  to  blame  in  case  site  became  pre- 
maturely old  :  that,  taking  advantage  of  his  own  wrongs  in 
every  particular,  in  his  treatment  of  her  it  was  as  if  she  was 
his  slave  in  reality  as  she  was  in  name,  and  his  conduct 
could  not  be  considered  other  than  cruel  and  brutal ;  that 
in  all  civilized  countries  women  were  on  an  equality  with 
the  men,  and  that  their  rights  were  protected  by  the  same 
taw,  exacting  constancy  ;  that  their  demands  were  even 
more  powerful  than  any  written  law,  and   that  elevated. 


THE  HAREM. 


refined,  and  educated,  they  were  always  good,  young,  and 
beautiful.  There,  men  never  had  but  one  wife  ;  here,  the 
thread  was  snapped  asunder  often  without  cause  ;  there, 
divorces  were  sometimes  resorted  to,  but  only  in  extreme 
cases,  where  the  man  or  the  woman  was  guilty  of  vicious  or 
bad  conduct.  That  it  mattered  not  how  this  might  be,  his 
proposition  would  be  looked  upon  in  all  enlightened  coun- 
tries, not  only  as  a  crime,  but  as  an  act  of  cowardice,  in 
wronging  a  helpless  woman  who  could  not  protect  herself ; 
that  in  taking  another  wife  into  his  family,  outraging  his 
present  wife  and  children,  the  law  might  protect  him  here, 
but  cvcr>'whcrc  else  in  the  world  he  would  be  branded 
morally,  and  punished  by  the  law.  Though  what  passed 
did  not  seem  to  make  much  impression  at  the  time,  years 
aftcftt-ard  he  aald  that  it  did,  and  as  he  j^rew  older  and 
wiser  he  had  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  advice  given  him 
upon  that  occasion. 


I 


CHAPTER  XI. 

MAHOMET  AND  IMS  RELIGION. 

The  K'cat  Mahomcun  motqoe  M  Cairo — The  nature  o(  ihe  rcll^o — 
Coitinion  Otis'"  "^  'tie  Jews  and  Arabs — Contlliions  under  nbkh  the 
fdigion  WIS  founded— Mkhorael  and  bis  (arcor— Evils  tfld  sensuAllty 
ol  the  lysieni'-Obliguiuoi  of  the  Piophet  to  Jewish  and  Chrislisn 
tMchlngs — Present  suius  of  Mahocnetanistn — The  relations  ol  Turker 
CO  Cht  luure  of  Istun  -ItR  iJecadence  and  speedy  doitntoll. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  Cairo  is  the  Mosque 
Gama-cI-Azur.  Founded  in  A.D.  975,  it  h  the  greatest 
university  for  instruction  in  pure  Arabic  and  education  it* 
the  Mahometan  faith  that  exists  in  the  Moslem  world. 
Without  architectural  beauty,  it  covers  a  vast  extent  of 
ground,  and  i-t  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  The 
structure  is  supported  by  innumerable  columns,  and  here, 
seated  cross-legged  on  mats,  as  many  as  12,000  students 
may  be  seen  in  the  grand  hall  engaged  In  their  studies, 
They  come  from  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  representing 
divers  colors  and  nation-ilitic^.  Nowhere  can  one  study  at 
a  single  glance  more  of  those  races  of  the  human  family, 
which  are  not  often  met  with  unless  the  voyager  penetrates 
far  into  the  deserts  of  Africa  or  the  steppes  of  Asia.  It  is 
here  that  the  undefilcd  truths  of  the  Koran  in  its  original 
language  are  taught.  The  focus  of  fanaticism,  votaries  are 
sent  from  this  seat  of  Islam  to  fire  the  heart  of  the  believer, 
and  upon  their  zeal  and  learning  the  hopc^  of  M.ihomc- 
tanism  arc  based  for  the  future.  To  my  Arab  adjutant- 
genera],  Lutfy  Bey.  an  educated  hadji  (one  who  had  been 
to  Mccci),  and  who  was  on  my  staff  for  many  years,  a  good 
man  and  faithful  follower  of  the  Prophet,  1  am  indebted 


MAHOMET  AXD  HIS  SELIGIOX. 


"7 


(or  much  information  about  X\\\i,  university  and  the  belief 
taught  there,  that  would  have  been  difficult  to  obtain 
otherwise.  Students  first  learn  pure  Arabic  and  then 
memorize  the  entire  Koran,  which  is  done  while  swinging 
to  and  fro  uid  singing  it  in  chorus.  By  a  scries  of  lectures 
ihc  ulcmaa  instruct  the  puptU  in  the  doctrine  of  the  unity 
of  God.  They  believe  that  there  are  twelve  attributes  of 
God  and  the  Prophet.  They  also  religiously  believe  (and 
this  troubles  them  often  very  seriously  in  life)  in  the  exist- 
ence of  angels  and  of  good  and  evil  genii,  the  evil  genii 
being  devils,  whose  chfef  is  Iblls  ;  in  the  immortality  of  the 
soul  ;  the  general  resurrection  and  judgment  ;  in  future 
rewards  and  punishments  ;  in  paradise  and  hell ;  in  the 
balance  in  which  good  and  evil  works  .ihall  be  weighed,  and 
the  bridge  (El  Sirat)  which  extends  over  the  midst  of  the 
dark  regions,  finer  than  a  hair  and  sharper  than  the  edge  of 
a  sword,  and  over  which  all  must  pass  and  from  which  the 
wicked  shall  fall.  Instruction  in  these  doctrine*  is  followed 
by  the  study  of  the  two  branches  of  tlie  Law — one  religious, 
the  recognition  of  the  unity  of  God  and  of  Mahomet  as 
his  Prophet,  and  the  other  secular — civil  and  criminal  law, 
cither  expressly  written  in  the  Koran  or  tradition  {Halif/i) 
deducible  from  the  sacred  book.  In  other  words,  the  study 
of  the  Law  is  the  scientific  interpretation  of  the  Koran 
(Tufsir).  and  to  attain  a  proper  knowledge  there  ate  learned 
disquisitions,  opinions,  and  decisions  of  their  celebrated 
K.iints  and  jurists,  which  are  thoroughly  studied  and  com- 
mitted to  memory. 

It  will  be  seen  that  their  religion,  which  is  their  "  faith 
and  practice,"  is  a  hard,  unbending  study.  Making  the 
'aw,  which  governs  them  in  all  time  and  in  everj'  affair  of 
life,  unchanging,  it  cannot  but  conflict  with  the  progress  of 
the  present  age  ;  and,  tested  as  it  i*  no;v  by  civilization,  it 
is  reeling  with  the  shock,  and  must  at  an  early  day  suc- 
cumb. The  Koran  and  its  traditions  constitute  the  dry 
sediment  of  antique  lore.     Believers  learn   the   Koran  by 


I 


i 


l»8  MAHOMET  AKD  IflS  REUGiON. 

heart,  and  accept  it  and  tlie  traditions  of  the  Mahometan 
writers  with  implicit  faith,  with  no  question,  no  ciiticism.  I 
know  many  shciits  of  ability  and  learning  who  arc  opposed 
to  the  study  of  .istronomy  because  the  moderns  insist  upon 
the  world  being  round.  This  is  only  mentioned  as  one  of 
the  thousand  instances  of  their  bigotry  and  opposition  to 
enlightenment. 

In  his  extensive  travels  the  Prophet  observed  a  universal 
neglect  of  all  religions  ;  and  becoming  interested  from  con- 
versations with  intelligent  Jews  and  Christians  in  the  con- 
tents of  the  Bible,  though  unlettered,  he  was  enabled  through 
his  wonderful  mcmoty  to  retain  the  most  important  facts  of 
the  history  given  him.  There  arc  many  considerations 
aside  from  biblical  authority  which  go  to  show  that  the 
Arabs  were  originally  of  common  origin  with  the  Jews, 
Job  lived  in  Arabia,  being  Semitic,  and  in  cIo.se  proximity 
to  I'alestinc.  The  Arabs  were  no  doubt  mixed  with  the 
Jews,  who  planted  extensive  colonics  in  Arabia  after  the 
fall  of  Jerusalem  and  on  their  return  from  captivity.  Some 
provinces  were  wholly  inhabited  by  them,  and  among  the 
Arabs  to-day  the  physiognomy  is  of  a  marked  Jcsvish  type, 
while  the  language  is  vci>'  similar.  Spreading  an  idea  of 
the  one  God  which  they  brought  with  them,  the  expatriated 
Jews  in  their  turn,  wherever  they  lived,  adopted  largely  the 
customs  and  habits  and  to  some  extent  the  religion  of 
those  among  whom  they  had  cast  their  fortunes.  There 
were  also  many  tribes  in  Arabia  who  called  themselves 
Christians,  but  their  faith  was  really  a  gross  idolatry. 

The  Jew  and  the  Christian  worshipped  in  the  same  place 
with  the  Pagan.  More  especially  was  the  Caaba  equally 
sacred  to  them  as  to  the  idolaters,  and  they  alike  wor- 
sliipped  the  personifications  of  the  attributes  of  God.  The 
whole  people  were  abandoned  to  degraded  superstitions, 
and  so  sunk  in  idolatry  that  they  had  long  forgotten  the 
true  God  and  devoted  themselves  to  an  earthly  object 
which   pleased    their    fancy.     The    Jewish    and    Christian 


MAHOMET  AND  HIS  RELIGION. 


IJ9 


people,  as  well  as  the  Arabs  proper,  occupied  the  country 
in  separate  tribes,  without  any  regular  government  to  bind 
them,  very  much  like  the  Dcdouin  or  Abyssinian  of  to-day  ; 
and  like  them  they  had  their  blood  (i-iids  which  kept  them 
in  constant  war.  They  cared  little  for  their  female  chil- 
dren, and  often  destroyed  them.  So  utterly  debased  were 
they  that  they  were  known  to  offer  human  s.icrificc3 ! 
What  added  to  their  untold  misery  was  an  improvident 
idleness,  which  often  entailed  upon  tliem  countless  evils, 
and  afflicted  (;rcat  portions  of  their  country  with  terrible 
suffering.  This  was  the  condition  of  the  people  of  Arabia 
in  the  seventh  csntury,  when  Mahomet  like  a  bright 
meteor  appeared  upon  the  scene.  Captivated  by  the  inter- 
esting history  of  Moses,  the  great  lawgiver  and  expounder 
of  the  patriarchal  religion,  his  mind  became  impressed  with 
its  truth.  What  deeply  affected  him  and  contributed  to 
form  his  belief  was  the  fact  that  the  people  of  Arabia  in 
many  particulars  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  early 
Jews  just  emerging  from  the  "  house  of  bondage."'  Th^ 
too  had  departed  from  the  true  God  and  worshipped  after 
the  fashion  of  the  ancient  Ej^yptian.  To  understand  the 
followers  of  Islam  and  the  religion  which  they  profess,  it  is 
necessary  to  get  some  idea  of  the  character  of  the  man 
whose  teachings  they  obey,  and  of  the  singular  methods  by 
which  he  has  swayed  the  minds  of  so  many  people  for  so 
many  centuries.  It  is  also  important  to  know  the  condi- 
tions of  the  age  in  which  he  lived. 

It  is  only  in  this  enlightened  day  that  the  world  is  willing 
to  receive  a  candid  statement  of  the  character  of  Mahomet 
and  his  mission,  the  motives  which  governed  him.  ami  the 
influences  which  have  chained  so  many  millions  of  human 
beings  to  his  despotic  law.  For  over  I300  years  the  sons  o( 
the  Prophet  have  held  undisputed  sway  over  vast  portions 
of  Asia  and  Africa.  They  forced  back  upon  Europe  count- 
less thousands  of  Crusaders,  and  not  only  raised  the  cres- 
cent over  the  holy  places  of  the  Kast,  but  blotted  out  the 


lio 


MAHOMET  AND  HIS  KBUG/OH. 


remnant  oT  the  mighty  Greek  empire,  and  compelled  the 
faiix'M  portions  of  Spain  to  submit  to  the  rule  of  the  scimi* 
tar.  At  a  still  more  recent  date,  in  the  last  and  expiring 
outburst  of  fanaticism,  Buropc  heard  the  war-cry  of  the 
Mahometan  invader,  Mahomet,  an  ignorant  camel-driver, 
was  an  enthusiast  of  wonderful  intellectual  power.  Living 
a  life  of  the  simplest  habits  and  tastes,  and  travelling  over 
vast  distances,  his  acute  observations  enabled  him  to  store 
up  a  great  amount  of  knowledge.  It  was  only  after  he  was 
forty  years  of  age  that  he  became  a  reformer.  Coming 
from  a  family  which  claimed  descent  from  Ishmael,  he  never 
made  any  pretension  to  it,  Hb  family  for  many  centuries 
held  the  priesthood  of  the  famous  temple  of  the  "  Caaba" 
at  Mecca.  This  holy  fane  contains  the  traditional  black 
stone  which  came  from  heaven,  or,  as  some  say,  from 
Adam's  I'aradise.  The  pilgrims  who  go  there  fully  believe 
that  it  was  blackened  by  the  kisses  of  Adam  mourning  the 
loss  of  Eve,  who  aftem'ard  joined  him  at  Mecca.  It  is  not 
only  now  but  in  all  time  that  this  temple  has  attracted 
pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  Asia  and  Africa.  Somewhere 
between  the  fourth  and  fifth  centuries  the  family  of  the 
Prophet  united  both  temporal  and  spiritual  power,  and  it 
was  in  this  way  that  he  became  related  by  blood  with  the 
most  famous  people  of  Arabia.  It  is  not  an  unusual  thing 
to  trace  back  this  blood  relationship  for  generations,  for  in 
the  East  it  has  always  been  the  custom  to  carefully  preserve 
traditions  of  genealogy.  There  are  many  to-day  there  who 
claim  descent  from  the  Prophet,  and  as  such  arc  entitled  to 
wear  the  green  turban.  Numbers,  from  the  lowest  fellah  to 
the  highest  prince,  are  alike  considered  to  possess  this  title 
of  distinction.  All  who  go  to  Egypt  visit  the  house  in  old 
Cairo  where  there  is  a  family  now  living  claiming  descent 
from  the  Prophet,  and  whose  ancestors  arc  represented  as 
having  occupied  it  for  eight  hundred  years. 

Mahomet's  powerful  intellect  deeply  imbued  with  relig- 
ious feeling  was  appalled  by  the  univental  superstition  and 


MAHOMET  AND  BIS  MEUCTON. 


MI 


tdalatf>'  around  him.  Professing  to  believe  himitelf  inspired, 
and  ihat  the  time  had  come  to  reform  the  world,  he  boldly 
declared,  like  Moses,  his  faith  in  a  personal  God  and  the 
unity  of  God,  the  same  that  Abraham  had  worshipped. 
That  which  powerfully  operated  upon  his  mind  to  make 
this  strong  declaration  was  that  people  among  whom  the 
Patriarchs  wor»hipped  strikingly  resembled  his  people,  in 
the  worship  of  the  personifications  of  Deity,  Moses,  who 
.was  the  first  to  declare  the  personality  of  God  both  of 
heaven  and  cailh,  proclaimed  at  the  s:ime  time  that  he  was 
the  God  of  their  fathers.  Mahomet,  to  make  his  mission 
broader  in  its  scope,  went  a  step  farther  than  M0.1C3,  and 
declared  that  "Allah"  is  the  God  of  the  universe,  of  all 
that  is  in  heaven  and  earth,  reigning  over  the  whole  human 
family.  He  had  seen  the  elTect  in  the  religion  of  the 
Saviour,  for  Christ  loved  all  humanity  ;  but  wishing  to  pre- 
serve the  similarity  between  Arab  and  Hebrew  traditions, 
he  declared  that  his  mission  was  to  bring  back  the  primi- 
tive religion  of  the  Patriarchs,  There  arc  reasons  for  not 
thinking,  with  many  able  writers,  that  his  entire  Gchcme 
was  simply  "  the  accident  of  common  origin  and  circum- 
stances" which  caused  the  resemblance  of  the  Mosaic  relig-  - 
ion  with  that  of  the  later  Prophet,  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  he  found  inspiration  in  direct  knowledge  of  the  writ- 
ings of  Moses,  which  were  learned  of  Jew  and  Christian, 
and  which  Mahomet  had  studied  until  he  was  forty  years  of 
age.  He  knew  the  numerous  traditional  truths  intimately 
connected  with  the  superstitious  beliefs  of  the  Arabs,  and 
there  is  abundant  evidence  in  the  Koran  that  his  subtle 
mind  utiliietl  these  in  forming  and  spreading  his  religion. 
Living  among  a  people  accustomed  to  despotic  njle,  he 
could  not  conceive  of  any  other  system,  cither  in  religion 
or  government.  Starting  as  a  reformer,  to  meet  with  suc- 
cess he  must  speak  as  one  with  authority  ;  his  theory  must 
have  the  force  of  command  ;  and  above  all,  to  inspire  con- 
fidence it  was  necessary  to  believe  in  himself.     A  delicate 


133 


MAHOMET  AJfD  HIS  XEUCIOif. 


man,  but  possessing  immense  nervous  ener^',  he  enthusias- 
tically entered  in  his  first  essay,  upon  what  he  thought  his 
mission,  and  gave  his  whole  mind  and  time  to  the  work: 
with  full  confidence  that  he  was  the  chosen  of  God.  He 
clothed  the  sublime  doctrine  of  the  Unity  of  God  with  such 
beauty,  out  of  the  imagery  of  his  heated  imagination,  that 
it  enthralled  the  minds  of  the  ignorant  and  superstitious. 
His  followers  believed  him  inspired,  and  soon  all  were 
enchained  by  his  dogmas,  and  only  too  willing  to  bow  to 
their  divine  authority.  !n  the  statement,  "There  is  only 
one  God.  Mahomet  is  his  prophet,"  there  was  no  persua- 
sion ;  it  was  a  command  :  "  Believe  in  what  1  say :  receive 
it  without  question,  without  argument ;  otherwise  you  must 
resist  the  truth  with  force." 

Starting  with  the  idea  that  he  was,  like  Moses,  in  direct 
communication  with  God,  there  could  be  no  alternative  to 
perfect  submission  to  his  law.  He  made  no  effort  by 
miracles  at  this  time  to  impress  the  popular  mind.  He  was 
particular  in  proclaiming,  "  I  am  not  sent  to  work  miracles, 
but  to  bring  you  to  the  revelations  of  God."  He  claimed, 
however,  that  his  whole  doctrine  was  a  standing  miracle, 
and  did  not  require  special  miracles  to  sustain  it.  His  life 
and  claims  were  contradictory,  according  to  Western  ideas, 
and  faith  in  his  sacred  inspiration  is  silenced.  For.  with  all 
his  austerity  and  ascetic  life,  he  was  steeped  in  sensuality. 
These  were  the  indulgences  that  suited  the  Eastern  man, 
and  in  adapting  his  religion  to  such  inclinations  his  example 
has  inflicted  terrible  wrong  upon  his  followers.  It  is  one  of 
those  seeds  in  Mahomctanism  which  is  causing  its  decay 
iind  ultimate  destruction,  Tt  is  well  to  remark  here  that 
Mahomet,  notwithstanding  his  low  estimate  of  woman,  dis- 
tinctly says,  "  Whoso  worketh  righteousness,  whether  they 
be  wait  Gx  female,  .ind  is  a  true  believer,  we  will  raise  them 
to  a  happy  life,  and  reward  according  to  merit  and  actions. ' ' 
While  he  had  illustrious  examples  for  all  he  did,  and  only 
followed  the  customs  and  habits  of  those  around  him,  as  a 


MAIIOMBT  AXD  iltS  SEUGION. 


m 


great  reformer  it  was  tu  have  been  expected  that  he  would 
cut  himscU  loose  from  the  sordid  instincts  of  Kumanity.  If 
in  the  grand  idea  of  3  universal  religion  which  profotscd  an 
Allah  for  the  whole  human  race,  h<:  had  really  possessed  a 
prescient  mind,  while  subjecting  the  Oriental,  he  would 
have  made  it  acceptable  to  the  cultivated,  refined,  and  moral 
intellects  of  other  peoples.  Unfortunately  tor  its  success, 
while  crushing  out  the  most  debased  polytheism  and  intro- 
ducing many  reforms,  he  indelibly  Mtained  his  great  work, 
in  the  minds  of  intelligent  and  moral  men  in  all  times. 
Assuming  the  mantle  of  a  great  reformer,  he  grovelled  in 
the  frailties  of  the  ignorant  masses  instead  of  teaching  a 
higher  morality.     For  present  success  he  was  content  to 

rrow  his  mission  to  the  control  of  tlie  Semitic  mind  by 

itifying  the  senses.  A  religion  so  debased  at  the  outset 
could  only  be  rooted  in  ignorance  and  be  utterly  incapable 
of  withstanding  the  logic  of  time. 

In  Mahomet's  evident  desire  of  winning  proselytes 
through  the  senses,  his  pretension  to  sanctity  is  swept 
away,  lowering  him  as  it  docs  to  the  level  of  common 
humanity,  whose  conscience  was  satisfied  with  the  peculiar 
ideas  of  right  and  wrong  that  base  superstitions  had  for  .so 
many  centuries  deeply  in.stilled  into  the  Eastern  mind. 

So  far  from  being  entirely  ignorant  of  the  pure  religion 
of  the  Saviour  of  men,  there  arc  evidences  in  the  Koran  to 
show  that  he  was  intimately  acquainted  with  its  highest 
morality.  But,  illiterate  himself,  he  could  not  fathom  from 
study  the  depths  of  its  pure  philosophy.  It  has  only  been 
in  these  latter  days  that  we  have  seen  the  effect  of  Chris- 
tianity* upon  the  mind  of  Islam  in  some  of  its  beautiful  les- 
sons,-which  their  writers  have  assumed  to  be  an  outspring 
of  their  religion.  While  Mahomet  learned  much  of  doc- 
trine, his  memory  was  at  fault,  and  led  him  into  m.iny 
errors  touching  history,  sacred  and  profane.  In  telling  the 
story  of  our  Saviour,  he  makes  Mary,  whom  he  styles  the 
sister  of  Aaron  and  the  daughter  of  AmroO,  the  mother  of 


«34 


MAMOMST  AND   HIS  XEUCIOtf. 


the  Son  o(  man.     He  styled  the  Saviour  tlic  "  Word  o^ 

God."  He  »ays  in  the  Koran,  "  O  Marj-,  verily  God  sends 
thee  good  tidings,  that  thou  shalt  bear  the  Word,"  and 
declares  him  to  be  the  Messiah,  who  pcrtormcd  miracles 
greater  than  he  could,  though  in  most  respects  he  abrogated 
his  authority. 

Modern  investigatorH  are  satisfied  that  he  only  repeated 
what  he  had  heard  from  Jews  and  Christians,  and  through 
misconception  ignorantly  wrote  the  many  palpable  errors 
found  in  the  Koran.  They  have  thought  that  he  profes:»ed 
to  be  the  principal  modi.itor  between  God  and  man,  and  his 
followers  believed  he  pcrtormcd  miracles,  but  he  emphat- 
ically disclaimed  both.  Notwithstanding  that  Islam  is  a 
ceremonial  law,  Mahomet  never  concealed  his  uncompro- 
mising opposition  to  a  Saviour  or  intermedi-iry  between 
man  and  his  Creator.  This  was  his  reason  (or  not  estab- 
lishing a  regular  hierarchy  with  a  numerous  priesthood  to 
explain  his  relij^ion,  instead  of  which  he  declares  explicitly 
that  the  head  of  every  family  shall  be  his  own  priest. 

No  earthly  power  to  decide  questions,  no  other  book 
than  the  Koran — that  is  the  law  in  or  out  of  the  mosque. 
It  has  been  said  that  M.thomet  did  not  propose  to  perform 
miracles,  as  it  was  dangerous  to  do  so  without  risking  his 
credit,  but  it  must  be  understood  that  he  did  claim  to  be  a 
standing  miracle.  Toward  the  close  of  his  emb;kssy,  when 
he  was  pursued  by  the  vindictive  fury  of  Jew,  Christian, 
and  Pagan,  he  seems  to  have  lost  confidence  in  himself.  It 
then  became  necessary  to  substantiate  his  power  by  some 
extraordinary  demonstration,  and  to  aid  the  great  work 
which  seemed  always  in  his  mind,  the  Faithful  were  sud. 
denly  startled  by  his  pretended  visit  to  heaven,  escorted  by 
the  angel  Gabriel.  This  is  beautifully  pictured  in  the 
Koran,  and  glows  with  the  splendid  imagery  of  Oriental 
figure,  with  which  he  was  so  riciily  gifted.  These  heavenly 
voyages  captivated  the  popular  mind,  and  not  only  estab- 
lished belief  in  his  inspiration,  but  also  that  his  stories  bad 


MAHOMET  AND  HIS  MBUG/OX. 


135 


been  written  by  the  finger  of  God.  Great  numbers  at  once 
rallied  to  the  sttaiidnrd  of  the  Prophet,  and,  fired  b)'»  fervid 
fanaticism,  were  only  too  happy  to  court  death  as  holy  in 
defence  of  the  faith.  Raising  the  green  flag,  the  believers 
in  the  new  religion  took  up  the  line  of  march  on  their 
pilgrimage  to  the  Caaba  (the  temple  at  Mecca),  in  the  full 
expectation  of  cementing  their  faith  with  their  blood. 
Setting  at  defiance  the  earlier  claims  of  "the  man  of 
peace."  it  was  here  that  Mahomet,  with  scimitar  in  hand, 
determined  to  propagate  his  religion  by  force.  In  this 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  Mahomet  destroyed  forever  any  confi- 
dence in  his  mission  as  a  great  moral  reformer ;  .-ind  if  he 
had  not  done  it  before,  this  act  has  sufficed  to  convince  the 
world  that  he  had  lost  his  own  self-belief,  which  he 
had  so  splendidly  asserted  in  his  early  career.  Thus  Ma- 
homet disrobed  himself  of  his  mantle  of  sincerity,  and  is 
indelibly  stamped  upon  the  page  of  history  as  an  impostor. 
Bom  of  the  stt-ord,  this  religion  from  that  day  has  been 
continued  in  blood  and  only  sustained  by  a  most  cruel  des* 
potism,  founded  upon  the  ignorance  of  its  followers,  who 
regard  it  a«  a  solemn  duty  to  kis'^  the  chain  that  manacles 
them.  Opposed  to  enlightenment,  it  crushes  out  all  inde- 
pendence of  thought  and  action,  existing  only  by  trampling 
under  the  heel  of  fanaticism  education,  progress,  and  every 
liberal  principle.  Though  it  has  survived  for  many  centu- 
ries, the  touch  of  civilization  is  making  it  crumble  away  tike 
the  Dead  Sea  apple  which  turns  to  dust  in  the  hand.  A 
distinguished  English  writer  of  long  residence  in  the  East 
has  recently  given  it  as  his  opinion  that  Mahomctanism  is 
increasing.  He  insists  that  it  would  make  but  little  differ- 
ence to  Maliometani»m  if  Turkey  were  blotted  out  as  a 
power.  There  is  no  doubt  that  in  a  certain  sense  both 
propositions  arc  true.  The  increase  is  in  the  unexplored 
wilds  of  Africa,  of  the  Indies,  and  of  China,  where  it  is 
next  to  imposisible  for  Western  civilization  to  penetrate. 
An  enlightened  Christian  bishop,  who  has  earnestly  devoted 


■i* 


MAHOMET  AX1>  UlS  /tSLIGION. 


a  life  to  the  welfare  of  the  African  sav^cs,  and  is  now  in 
Abyssinia  engaged  in  the  work,  said  that  Mahometans 
were  hiducing  great  numbers  of  the  Africuiis  to  adopt  that 
faith  without  any  genuine  knowledge  of  it  on  the  part  of 
the  converts.  So  it  is  in  India  and  China,  where  no  man  of 
intelligence  and  character  ever  dreams  of  it.  True,  there 
are  instances  within  my  knowledge  of  Frcnclimcn  and  Ital- 
ians,  and  even  of  Englishmen,  who  have  pretended  conver- 
sion and  adopted  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  people.  In 
eveiy  instance  the  change  was  through  interested  motives, 
and  the  Englishmen  quitted  the  fraternity  as  soon  as  their 
ends  were  gained.  Long  before  Turkey  became  powerful, 
Islam,  which  only  lived  by  the  sword,  had  really  lost  all  the 
moral  influence  it  ever  possessed,  Turkish  rule  was  only 
incited  by  conquest  and  lust,  and  that,  amoni;  those  already 
destroyed  by  religious  dissension  and  political  weakness. 
Turkish  power  has  blasted  every  country  which  unfortu* 
natcly  has  fallen  under  its  sway.  It  is  a  fetid  mass,  whose 
only  principle  is  waste,  ignorance,  and  superstition,  and 
whose  prosperity  is  only  temporarily  secured  by  what  it  has 
gathered  from  the  ruins  of  others.  Never  having  become  a 
people  until  after  they  had  been  conquered  and  the  slaves 
of  the  Mahometan,  and  never  having  known  the  fervor  of 
their  early  conquerors,  the  Turks  were  moved  from  the 
beginning  only  by  the  savage  cry  of  lust  and  plunder ! 
Their  religion  w<is  only  a  name  :  it  had  no  principle.  Thus 
it  has  happened  that  at  the  first  check  it  received  from  the 
hand  of  civiliz.ition,  though  professedly  the  head  of  Islam, 
it  was  thrown  back  upon  itself ;  a  miserable  ' '  excrescence," 
an  incubus  upon  what  little  of  vitality  is  left  in  Islamism. 

The  jealousy  of  the  great  powers  of  Europe  alone  keeps- 
Turkey  in  existence  as  a  government.  One  more  embrace 
of  the  "  great  bear"  and  her  empire  will  break  into  frag- 
ments. An  acquaintance  of  many  years  with  the  Turkish 
dominions  induces  me  to  believe  that  outside  of  the  terri- 
tory immediately  surrounding  Constantinople,  the  people 


MAHOMET  AXD  HIS  HBUGION. 


•3T 


arc  kept  under  subjection  only  through  force.  Those  in 
the  distant  provinces  arc  hereditary  enemies.  The  Arab, 
looking  upon  the  Turk  as  the  oppressor  of  his  race  lor  cen- 
turies, hu  a  cordial  hatred  of  him.  The  real  cause  of  this 
hurrying  of  Islam  to  its  doom — it  matters  not  where  its 
rallying  focus  may  be — comes  back  at  laat  to  the  religion 
itscif,  whidi  antagonizes  alt  knowledge  and  advancement. 
The  fact  is  that  the  Prophet  in  forming  his  religion  at- 
tempted to  legislate  for  all  time,  making  laws  which  suited 
the  primitive  people  of  Arabia,  and  then  called  his  code  a 
religion.  It  never  entered  his  mind  that  these  laws,  incapa* 
blc  of  expansion,  and  suited  only  to  meet  the  exigencies  of 
an  ignorant  and  brutal  people,  would  have  to  undergo  the 
shock  of  contact  with  a  higher  civili/.ation.  To  restore  the 
patriarchal  system,  where  l.tw  and  religion  were  mixed,  was 
on  his  mind,  and  it  is  the  thread  of  all  his  discourse  in  his 
Koran.  He  could  entertain  no  other  notion  than  that  it 
was  perfect,  and  the  idea  of  its  ever  succumbing  to  any 
other  scheme  w.as  never  dreamed  of  in  his  Oriental  philoso- 
phy, particularly  that  the  Christian  religion  would  ever  be 
elevated  from  the  condition  in  which  he  knew  it,  to  test  his 
violent  dogmas.  There  was  a  brief  period  in  which  his 
religion  stood  the  ordeal  of  advanced  ideas,  and  then  it  was 
founded  upon  what  was  learned  from  the  Greeks.  For  a 
moment  there  was  a  bright  era  in  literature  and  the  fine 
arts,  and  even  then  it  was  the  narrow  and  crystallized  study 
of  the  past.  The  arts  of  the  Mahometans  were  simply  con- 
fined to  architecture,  their  science  to  mathematics  .-ind 
medicine  ;  and  their  literature,  soft  and  voluptuous,  was 
but  an  outspring  of  their  sensual  religion.  Condemning 
sculpture  and  painting,  they  replaced  them  by  beautiful 
writing  and  tracery  on  stone  ;  nothing  was  lasting.  This 
was  only  a  silver  lining  on  the  dnrk  cloud  of  fanaticism. 
History  graphically  describes  all  they  ever  did,  which  w.is 
under  the  caliphs  of  Bagdad  and  those  of  Granada.  Then 
temporary  civilization  was  forced  upon  an  unwilling  people. 


5 


138  MAHOMET  AND  HIS  KBLIGION. 

in  defiance  of  orthodox  believers.  It  began  and  disap- 
peared with  the  enlightened  caliphs.  The  only  life  that 
Islam  has  is  sustained  by  British  bayonets,  and  only  where 
the  system  exists  in  her  path  to  the  Indies.  As  it  is,  the 
girdle  of  civilization  is  so  encircling  the  cursed  thing  that, 
like  the  scorpion  when  it  has  no  escape,  it  is  turning  upon 
and  stinging  itself  to  death.  In  the  course  of  Providence 
Islamism  is  in  its  death-throes,  and  its  end  is  nearer  than  is 
generally  thought. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

THE  NILE  LANDS  AND  THEIR  CULTIVATIOK. 

Tbe  aac«nl  of  (he  Kile— iDqwmtBM  o(  the  river  to  Eg^pt— The  kppeaMnC^ 
of  Ihc  banks— The  oulief  Flyoom.  tbe  >ltc  ol  the  ancient  CrDCOdllopolIg 
sod  of  Aralnoe— One  of  the  Eden*  ol  Egypt- -LeucnilH  nnd  iradftlon* — 
timair*  Krcat  cttutc*  here,  n«v  the  properly  ol  the  bondholders-  Some- 
thing more  about  the  fellah  and  hti  customs — The  molt  Important  men 
In  Egypt— Adherence  to  ancient  custotn*— Million*  of  dolkr*  spent  by 
hmall  Id  Introdiiclng  mMbiticry  and  luiptovementi— Needs  ol  EgypiJAn 
farmlds. 


On  my  first  visit  to  Egypt  it  was  a  difficult  enterprise  to 
make  a  trip  up  the  Nile.  Now  the  facilities  arc  perfect. 
One  method  is  by  the  slow  diahbeeyah.  a  boat  fitted  up  as 
luxuriously  as  a  drawing-rootn,  in  which  the  traveller  can 
float  in  delicious  indolence,  without  danger  of  meeting  an 
acquaintance,  or  experiencing  a  single  ripple  of  disturbance 
to  mar  his  dreams.  The  other  method  is  by  a  well-con- 
ducted and  comfortable  steamer.  The  Rrst  method  of 
travel  takes  about  three  months,  the  latter  about  three 
weeks  ;  and  though  the  diahbeeyah  has  a  certain  delicious 
charm  of  its  own.  the  majority  of  travellers  prefer  the 
steamer.  The  present  age  of  tourists  is  too  restless  to 
waste  three  months,  even  on  the  most  interesting  of  rivers. 
Though  old  Father  Nile  has  so  great  a  history  and  is  nearly 
as  long  as  any  river  in  the  world,  yet  it  is  only  during  a 
short  season  that  it  is  navigable  for  any  great  distance. 

As  soon  as  it  stops  raining  at  the  Equator  and  in  Abys* 
sinia  the  surplus  water  runs  out  into  the  sea  or  is  absorbed 
by  the  thirsty  lands  along  the  river.  E-lven  during  the 
winter  season,  when  travellers  ascend,  it  becomes  necessary 


I40      TffB  NILE  LANDS  AND    THEIK  CULTIVATtON. 


to  tie  up  at  night  to  keep  from  grounding  on  sandbars,  and 
sometimes  during  the  day  the  boat  must  be  pulle'd  off  by 
oUier  steamers.  At  Cairo  in  the  month  of  May  there  is 
only  six  feet  of  water  ;  in  October  there  is  twenty-six, 
and  this  is  the  beginning  of  the  season  for  navigation. 
The  Nile  begins  to  rise  about  the  17th  of  June,  when  the 
Egyptians  believe  a  miraculous  drop  of  water  falls  from 
heaven  during  the  night  and  cnuses  it  to  rise.  About  the 
toth  of  August  it  is  high  enough  to  irrigate  the  lands,  and 
it  is  then  that  the  great  ceremony  of  cutting  the  dam  of  the 
canal,  called  the  Kkalig,  near  Cairo,  a  thing  of  immemorial 
usage,  takes  place.  The  Khedive  and  all  Egypt  are  present 
when  this  is  done,  amid  great  rejoicing,  Rring  of  cannon 
brilliant  illumination,  and  fireworks.  The  Nile  is  then  cov- 
ered with  boats  filled  with  people,  who  remain  up  all  night 
to  enjoy  the  picturesque  spectacle.  Upon  this  occasion  the 
ancient  Egyptians  were  accu.stomed  to  appease  the  god  of 
the  Nile  and  induce  him  to  bestow  a  bountiful  inundation 
by  throwing  as  a  sacrifice  into  its  sacred  water  a  beautiful 
virgin.  A  manikin  was  substituted  by  the  early  Christians  ■ 
the  .'\rabs  build  one  now  of  the  Nile  mud  inside  of  the 
dam,  which  is  swept  away  by  the  rush  of  the  water  when  it 
is  cut. 

My  last  voyage  up  the  Nile  was  on  a  steamer  ;  the  other 
way,  in  a  diahbceyalt,  was  too  much  like  crossing  the  North 
American  plains  in  an  ambulance  when  there  is  a  railroad 
to  transport  one  over  the  vast  uninhabited  country.  For 
many  miles  the  banks  arc  monotonous,  and  it  is  only  those 
who  like  the  dolcf  far  nien:.'  who  travel  in  the  diahbccyah. 
With  an  agreeable  party  a  few  weeks  among  the  ruins  is  as 
long  as  one  cares  to  linger,  unless  he  is  an  Eg>^)loIog^st, 
deep  in  the  study  of  the  ancients.  The  voyager  i*  alwa)'s 
glad  when  he  gets  through  with  his  trip,  even  on  a  steamer. 
Before  making  the  long  ascent  it  is  pleasant  to  take  rail  to 
the  Fiyoom,  an  oasis  a  sliort  distance  from  the  Nile,  6$ 
miles  above  Cairo.     Its  important  town,  Medcenet,  is  inter- 


TUB  mis  LANDS  AND   THEIR  CULTIVATION.     141 


esting,  as  it  is  built  upon  the  nitns  of  the  famous  city  of 
Crocodilopolts,  afterward  called  Arsinoc.  Some  think  the 
Hebrews  were  forced  to  labor  here  in  constructing  its  great 
monuments^  and  that  the  patriarch  Joseph  was  buried  here 
before  being  carried  by  his  people  to  the  Holy  Land. 
Every  place  In  Egypt  has  its  incident.  The  tradition 
among  the  Copts  is  ihat  Arsinoe  was  once  destroyed  by  the 
enemy  t)'ing  torches  to  the  tails  of  cats  and  running  them  into 
the  city,  which  was  soon  in  flames.  It  would  be  difficult, 
with  even  this  wonderful  device,  to  burn  down  the  new  city, 
u  it  is  almost  entirely  built  of  mud.  This  plateau,  situated 
in  the  Libyan  hills,  surrounded  by  deserts,  is  an  oval  basin 
25  or  30  miles  in  extent  each  way,  and  from  its  luxuriant 
cultivation  may  be  truly  said  to  be  the  land  of  roses.  It  ia 
intersected  by  canals,  and  wherever  ihc  eye  is  directed  the 
lofty  minarets  mark  an  Arab  village.  In  ancient  times 
there  were  nearly  a  million  acres  planted  in  this  oasis,  but 
it  is  greatly  reduced  now,  though  the  bondholder!)  have 
control  of  over  100,000  acres  belonging  to  Egypt,  which 
they  have  seized  to  help  pay  its  debt.  It  is  a  great  fruit 
region,  is  celebrated  for  its  cereals,  and  it  was  here  that 
Cleopatra  obtained  the  beautiful  Bowers  for  her  magnificent 
banquets.  It  is  now  remarkable  for  its  sugar-cane,  and 
cotton  of  modem  introduction,  and  for  many  of  those 
stupendous  mills  and  refineries  of  which  so  much  has  been 
KTitten  apropos  of  the  extravagance  of  the  Khedive,  Ismail. 
An  epitome  of  Egypt  is  here  in  all  its  phases.  Wending 
one's  way  along  the  banks  of  the  canal,  one  can  always  see 
the  traditional  Arab  on  his  homar  (ass),  with  his  red  tar- 
boosh (fei)  over  his  bronzed  face.  He  is  tall  of  stature, 
jrith  broad  chest,  the  pride  of  race  indicated  in  his  face, 
th  lai^c  almond  eyes,  and  dressed  in  his  blue  chemise, 
while  two  pointed  slippers  are  stuck  up  in  the  air,  partly  to 
escape  the  ground  and  partly  to  keep  them  on  his  feet,  for 
he  never  wears  heels.  His  better  half,  with  her  blue 
habarak  thrown  over  her,  concealing  her  head  and  face  and 


143      THE  NILE  LANDS  AND    TUBIK  CULTIVATION. 

draping  her  erect  and  graceful  form  (the  umc  fashionable 
dress  as  that  of  the  man),  wears  nngs  in  her  nose  and 
Sowers  pricked  in  blue  on  her  chin,  between  her  c>'es,  on 
her  arms,  and  on  the  back  of  her  hands  to  imitate  gloves. 
The  palms  of  her  hand,  her  finger-nails,  toe-nails,  and  the 
bottoms  of  her  feet  arc  stained  with  henna,  giving  thctn  a 
ding)'  color  of  dirty  brown.  Even  with  her  the  coquetry  of 
silver  bracelet.^  and  anklets  is  fully  displayed.  To  add  still 
more  to  the  man's  proof  of  the  superiority  of  hi$  sex,  while 
he  rides  she  is  often  seen  to  carry  on  her  head  a  heavy 
load  which  balances  itself,  one  child  straddling  her  shouU 
ders  and  another  her  side,  the  latter  one  being  held  on  with 
her  gracefully  turned  arm.  Yet  with  all  this  habitual  load, 
when  young  she  is  the  perfection  of  form,  and  her  hanc 
and  feet  arc  well  pointed  and  pretty.  Thus  you  have  a 
common  picture  of  the  Icllah  and  his  interesting  spouse. 
The  fellah  takes  pride  in  showing  complete  disregard  of  the 
human  beast  of  burden  trudging  alongside  him  under  the 
weight  of  his  progeny.  Not  only  thus,  but  in  conversation 
among  men  he  expresses  a  contempt  for  women.  If  the 
matter  is  ever  spoken  of,  which  is  seldom,  he  never  fails  to 
let  you  know  his  pride  of  sex  ;  but  in  this  as  a  rule  he  is  an 
arrant  impostor,  for  women  everywhere  must  sometimes 
have  their  say.  In  private  life  he  does  the  best  he  can  to 
treat  his  wife  kindly,  and  in  the  mud  hut  she  is  evidently 
the  rdgning  sovereign.  I  never  entered  a  village  wherein  I 
did  not  hear  her  lashing  her  lord  with  the  most  feaKul 
abuse  and  banging  his  children  without  merc>-.  No  doubt 
the  hardships  of  maternity  and  labor  sour  her  good-nature, 
and  as  man  is  largely  responsible  for  them,  I  never  have 
heard  her  outcries  without  delight,  though  I  always  felt 
sorry  for  the  poor  miserable  little  naked  beings  who  get  the 
se^-erest  punishment  for  their  peccadilloes.  In  looking 
closer  at  the  fellah,  who  really  thinks  he  is  the  "  salt  of  the 
earth,"  one  is  not  sony  that  the  poor  soul  has  some  small 
gratification  in  his  hard  lot.     When  stripped  of  the  little 


TUB  NJLB  LANDS  AND   THEIK  CULTIVATION,      i^j 

fr]oT>'  that  invests  liim,  and  he  is  seen  divested  of  all  cloth- 
ing except  the  yellow  camcl's-hair  tarboosh  upon  his  shaven 
head,  laboring  in  the  broiling  sun  of  Egypt,  while  standing 
up  to  his  knees  in  the  alluvium  of  the  Nile,  my  heart  has 
always  gone  out  to  him.  Talk  of  slavciy  in  any  other 
country  compared  with  that  of  the  fellah  !  The  former 
slaves  of  America  lived  in  palaces  iind  dressed  in  fine  linen 
in  comparison.  Having  a  horror  of  war,  from  long  oppres- 
sion the  fellah  acts  with  pusillanimity  ;  he  will  not  defend 
himself  unless  he  lives  in  a  city  and  comes  in  contact  with 
Europeans.  As  a  rule  he  never  strikes  back,  but  always 
makes  a  great  noise  with  those  of  his  race  who  cross  his 
path.  Rarely  coming  to  blows,  they  pull  each  other's  beard 
when  excited,  which  is  considered  a  very  great  insult.  If 
told  that  Allah  does  not  like  it,  the  disputants  are  glad  to 
ki5:^  and  make  friends.  Robber>',  unless  of  trifles,  and 
murder  and  assassination  are  almost  unknown.  They  have 
a  horror  of  taking  the  life  of  even  a  bird.  Thi.s  man  of  all 
work,  though  owning  the  soil,  receives  little  for  his  labor, 
as  what  is  not  taken  by  the  bondholder  is  seized  by  the 
oflicial,  leaving  him  but  a  scanty  supply  to  subsist  upon  ; 
or,  as  a  writer  of  new  Egypt  tells  us,  "  Unless  he  gives  the 
last  piastre,  the  sceptre  of  old  Egypt"  is  applied  to  obtain 
it;  becoming  accustomed  to  the  kourbash,  he  rather  likes 
it,  and  begs  as  a.  great  happiness  to  see  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren starve.  Docile  and  amiable,  the  fellah  is  resigned  to 
his  lot,  and  carries  the  heavy  yoke  uncomplainingly.  To 
keep  from  the  government  a  few  piastres  (cents),  he  is  will- 
ing to  receive  any  number  of  lashes,  and  will  turn  the  other 
check  for  more.  He  delights  to  kiss  the  hand  that  strikes 
him,  and  being  a  grown-up  child  he  weeps  when  the  stroke 
pains  him — that  is  all.  Whatever  the  natural  instincts  of 
these  people  may  be,  and  however  the  climate  may  ener- 
vate, from  necessity  they  are  at  least  not  idle.  It  is  not 
the  worthless  rabble  of  the  cities  who  furnish  the  wealth, 
but  it  is  the  cultivator  of  the  soil  who  pays  the  millions  to 


144      THE  h'lI.E  I^.VDS  AND    TJtE/X  CULTIVATlOff. 


the  foreigner  and  enriches  the  officials  of  Egypt.  There  is 
little  evidence  of  a  desire  to  improve  his  condition,  notwith- 
standing the  great  effort  made  by  Ismail  to  elevate  him. 
Content  to  live  in  his  miserable  mud  hut.  he  will  not  inhabit 
a  better,  since  the  (car  of  imposts  ant)  official  exactions 
deter  him.  He  never  spends  anything  (or  progress,  and 
opposes  all  that  is  new  or  contrary  to  custom.  He  retains 
the  same  old  plough.  o(ten  dragged  by  a  camel  and  a 
donkey  chained  together  ;  to  draw  water  (rom  the  Nile  he 
uses  the  same  bucket  {shadif)  used  in  the  time  of  Joseph, 
and  employs  the  s.imc  old  creaking  asekia,  a  string  of 
earthen  buckets  around  a  wheel,  wherewith  to  draw  water 
out  of  a  well  to  irrigate  his  lands  when  the  Nile  is  low. 
It  Is  turned  by  a  blinded  buffalo,  that  Egyptian  beast  of 
all  work. 

These  are  the  people  squatted  upon  the  d6bris  of.  the 
Labyrinth,  one  of  the  greatest  wonders  of  the  world,  where 
the  women  shake  buffalo-milk  in  goatskins  for  hour;  to 
make  butter  for  use,  and  the  men  may  be  seen  nursing  the 
children  .and  knitting  stockings  (or  sale.  It  is  difficult  to 
realize  that  this  race  exists  where  once  stood  that  Laby- 
rinth, of  which  even  the  Greek  historians  were  forced  to 
write  :  "  If  one  were  to  unite  all  the  buildings  and  all  the 
great  works  of  the  Greeks,  they  would  yet  be  inferior  to 
this-  edifice,  both  tn  labor  and  expense,  although  the  tein. 
pics  of  Ephesus  and  Samos  arc  justly  celebrated.  Even 
the  Pyramids  are  certainly  monuments  which  surpass  their 
expectation,  and  each  one  of  them  m.iy  be  compared  with 
the  greatest  productions  of  the  Greeks ;  nevertheless  the 
Labyrinth  is  greater  still." 

The  crumbling  Pyramids  found  here  tell  us  that  this  was 
a  great  necropolis  (or  the  millions  of  dead.  It  w.as  a 
celebrated  spot  from  the  earliest  ages,  and  its  history  cul- 
minated in  great  magnificence  during  the  splendid  epoch  of 
the  twelfth  dynasty.  This  valley,  now  so  neglected  but 
still  so  beautiful,   must    have  presented  at  that  time  a 


THE  KILE  LAXDS  AKD    THBIlt  CULTIVATION.     145 

parterre  of  varied  beauty,  unrivalled  by  anything  in  that 
marvellous  country  of  agricultural  and  architectural  won- 
•ders.  Here  the  great  Thothmcs  and  Kamescs,  of  the  eigh- 
teenth and  nineteenth  dynasties,  gave  forth  their  edicts  in 
the  midst  of  the  great  political  and  religious  assemblies, 
while  gathered  in  united  wisdom  under  the  same  eternal 
sun  which  gladdened  the  scene  then  a$  it  does  now  with 
nature's  green  carpet,  its  golden  harvest,  and  the  waving 
palms.  Here  war  was  declared,  and  the  martial  tread  of 
thousands  was  heard,  and  Icings  and  queens  bent  in  humitia- 
tion  under  the  iron  heel  of  the  Eg)'ptian  I'haraoh.  Now 
there  is  a  stillness  like  that  of  an  eternal  Sabbath,  and 
scarcely  a  vestige  is  left  to  show  that  it  was  ever  otherxvise. 
If  the  Labyrinth  surpassed  all  wonders  out  of  Eg>'pt,  the 
artiTicial  lake  (Mocris)  watt  greater.  Instead  of  .-in  expanse 
of  over  thirty  miles  of  water  as  in  that  day,  it  is  almost' 
entirely  a  cultivated  field  now.  Amcnemhah,  a  Pharaoh  of 
the  twelfth  dynasty,  about  3000  years  B.C.  dug  an  arti- 
ficial lake  in  the  centre  of  thi.s  oaRi<{,  covering  a  surface  of 
over  10,000,000  square  yards,  as  a  reservoir  to  hold  water 
enough  not  only  to  irrigate  the  Fiyoom  valley,  but  to 
extend  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile  over  200  miles  to 
the  sea.  It  was  so  arranged  with  dams  and  sluices  as  to 
completely  control  this  immense  volume  of  water,  in  con- 
nection with  a  natural  lake  already  existing,  and  thus  fer- 
tilize the  whole  land  for  that  great  distance. 

Before  leaving  this  interesting  subject  1  must  speak  of  a 
passing  incident.  Last  winter  in  one  of  the  cities  of  Florida 
I  saw  a  man  standing  in  front  of  a  wagon  selling  what  he 
called  "wizard  oil."  promising  to  cure  all  the  diseases 
poor  humanity  was  heir  to,  and  adding  that  it  made  old 
people  young  again.  An  old  decrepit  lady,  hearing  this 
note  of  comfort  while  passing,  raised  her  venerable  head  to 
be  assured,  and  then  darted  across  the  street  for  a  bottle. 
This  incident  reminded  me  that  a  sheik  I  met  in  the 
Fiyoom  oasis  said  that  the  legend  with  the  Arabs  was  that 


h6      the  SILB  LaSDS  and   their  CULTlVATIOlf. 

Joseph  lived  here.  The  patriiirch  riding  out  one  day  met 
an  old  and  ugly  woman,  and  was  forced  to  say  that  she  was 
more  hideous  than  any  one  he  had  ever  seen.  She  replied 
by  asking  him  to  pray  to  Ailah  to  make  her  young  ^ain. 
and  as  Allah  always  answered  his  praycra  it  would  come  to 
pass.  Joseph  did  so,  and  she  became  sta  beautiful  that  he 
married  her.  She  survived  him  to  a  green  old  age,  and 
was  gathered  to  her  fathers.  She  soon  found  herself  the 
only  old  woman  in  Paradise,  and  learned  that  Allah  never 
made  old  women  young  but  once. 

If  we  pity  the  fellah  standing  in  rags  and  wretchedness 
up  to  his  middle  in  mud,  it  is  amusing  to  witness  the  sort 
of  comic  superiority  he  atisumcs  over  the  civilized  man,  for 
he  believes  himself  a  favorite  of  Allah,  and  thinks  he  is 
assured  of  a  future  in  Paradise.  IIow  much  more  amazing 
is  the  story  told  by  the  hieroglyphics,  that  his  ancestors, 
the  ancient  Eg>'ptian3,  who  were  the  wisest  people  of  their 
day.  who  conquered  the  world  and  constructed  monuments 
of  utility  and  grandeur  many  of  which  exceed  in  extent 
and  magnificence  anything  even  in  this  day,  made  use  of 
this  wonderful  lake  to  nourish  and  protect  the  loathsome 
crocodile,  and  that  they  worshipped  it  with  the  deepest 
devotion.  They  named  a  populous  and  renowned  city  and 
province  after  it,  and  in  order  that  the  reptile  might  be 
perfectly  happy,  had  prepared  for  it  geese,  fish,  and  various 
meats,  dressed  with  tender  care  to  tempt  its  appetite.  Its 
head  and  ears  were  ornamented  with  rings,  its  feet  with 
anklets,  and  it  had  a  necklace  of  gold  and  artificial  stones. 
Rendered  tame  by  kindness,  after  death  it  was  embalmed 
in  the  most  sumptuous  manner,  and  its  sacred  remains  de- 
posited in  a  goi^eous  tomb.  It  is  difficult  to  decide  at 
which  to  marvel  the  more,  the  ancient  man  who  built  .al! 
these  magnificent  monuments  but  worshipped  the  crocodile, 
or  the  modern  one  who  destroyed  these  fine  constructions 
but  who  believes  in  Allah.  There  is  a  satisfaction  in  know- 
ing that  there  was  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  superior 


THE  NILE  LANDS  AND   THEIR  CULTIVATION.      147 


merits  of  this  repulsive  creature,  for  in  tlie  next  Hcraclco- 
polit^n  province  the  wise  people  worshipped  the  iclmcu- 
mon,  the  deadly  enemy  of  the  crocodile,  the  fable-  being 
that  it  crawled  down  the  throat  of  its  neighboring  god 
when  asleep  and  fed  upon  its  sacred  intestines.  The  re- 
sult of  this  amiable  rivalry*  caused  bloody  feuds  between  Ihe 
two  provinces,  and  resulted  in  a  terrible  conflict  in  the  early 
Roman  day.  so  violent  that  it  is  said  to  have  been  the  cause 
of  the  destruction  of  the  Labyrinth.  Pliny  writes  that  the 
destruction  was  as  much  due  to  these  superstitions  as  to 
the  corroding  tooth  of  time.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  in 
further  research  among  the  hidden  tombs  more  light  may 
be  thrown  upon  a  religion  which  descended  so  low  in  the 
scale  of  creation  to  liiid  an  object  of  worship.  The  same 
people  not  only  built  splendid  monuments,  but  threw  a 
halo  of  beauty  around  the  highest  maxima  of  truth,  giving 
expression  to  some  of  the  finest  moral  conceptions  of  which 
the  human  mind  is  capable. 

Some  of  the  richest  lands  in  Eg>'pt  were  at  one  time  the 
private  property  of  the  Khedive  (Ismail),  and  a  large  por> 
tion,  nearly  a  half  million  acres,  was  planted  in  this  oasis. 
Beginning  near  here,  there  were  200.000  acres  situated  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  Nile,  extending  some  distance  above 
Mtnich,  and  50,000  more  above  Luxor.  Among  the  numer- 
ous constructions  of  Ismail,  one  that  rcflccLs  wonderful  credit 
upon  him  consists  of  the  great  embankments  and  other 
appliances  for  the  collection,  distribution,  and  regulation  ot 
the  vast  volume  of  water  so  neces-wry  to  successful  cultiva- 
tion in  this  country.  There  were  many  grand  constructions 
of  this  character,  which  will  compare  favorably  with  those 
of  the  ancients  in  their  most  brilliant  era.  Loud  clamor 
has  been  made  against  the  Khedive  for  wastefulness,  but  in 
these  improvements  he  has  shown  lasting  and  practical  u9c« 
fulness.  It  cannot  be  said  that  he  wasted  money  in  his 
lavisli  attempts  to  advance  cultivation  by  the  introduction  of 
new  inventions  for  ;^cultural  purposes,  by  planting  trees 


148      TUB  Ni!^  LANDS  4S'D   THEIR  CVl.TIVATIOl/. 


and  establishing  beautiful  gardens,  breaking  as  he  did  through 
the  trammels  of  long  usage  to  effect  these  changes  for  the 
certain  prosperity  of  \\\k  people,  m  spite  of  the  opposU 
tion  of  all  classes.  No  man  in  the  world  had  such  plant- 
ing interests.  The  railroads  to  traverse  his  estates  cost 
over  SS-OCXJ.OOO;  there  were  twelve  enormous  sugar-mills, 
amon^  the  largest  in  the  world,  each  said  to  have  cost 
$i,ooo.cxx),  with  great  numbers  of  refineries  and  cotton- 
gins.  These  were  called  extravagances,  but  they  added  to 
the  wealth  and  increased  the  population  of  Eg>'pt.  Ismail 
was  anxious  for  the  development  of  the  country,  and  par- 
ticularly its  soil,  knowing  that  the  life  of  his  people  and  his 
own  security  in  thiti  age  of  progress  required  these  improve- 
ments. It  must  be  remarked  here  that  Ismail,  in  his  too 
great  desire  for  these  civilizing  influences,  was  deceived  by 
the  foreigner  into  purchasing  millions  of  dollars'  worth  of 
machinery,  including  ste.im -ploughs,  that  proved  utterly 
useless  for  cultivation  in  fCgypt.  As  late  as  the  year  1879, 
when  I  left  Egj-pt,  there  was  much  of  it  scattered  along  the 
banks  of  the  river,  fast  becoming  unRt  for  use  anywhere. 
It  can  be  said  of  these  transactions  that  they  arc  evidences 
of  the  over-confidence  of  Ismail  in  the  Western  man,  who 
often  practised  dcccptiofi  to  gratify  his  own  cupidity. 

Unfortunately  these  enormous  plantations  were  under  the 
ban  of  custom,  which  all  the  power  of  the  Khedive  could 
not  effectually  change,  and  the>"  did  not  yield  so  abundantly 
as  the  soil  and  climate  promised  ;  though  at  his  fall  he  had 
gradually  led  his  people  to  the  use  of  new  implements,  and 
agriculture  on  these  estates  was  assuming  the  air  of  Euro, 
pcan  prosperity.  Accustomed  to  wheat,  barley,  lentils,  and 
other  ancient  Egyptian  productions,  Egyptian  crops  were 
comparatively  abundant,  and  the  old  plough  of  the  time  of 
Joseph  answered  tolerably  well.  In  crops  of  more  recent 
introduction,  like  mni/e.  rice,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  and 
indigo,  an  entire  change  became  ncccs5ar>-.  In  looking  at 
their  rich  soil  the  fellahs  were  afraid  to  lose  some  of  it. 


THE  NILE  LANDS  AND   THEIR  CULTIVATION.      149 

unlcis  they  sowed  everything  broadcast  as  they  did  wheat. 
They  could  not  be  persuaded  to  give  the  plant  more  room 
to  grow,  and  to  follow  the  American  system,  where  the 
yield  is  so  abundant.  They  would  only  depart  from  the 
time-honored  practice  to  a  degree  in  the  cultivation  of  cane 
and  cotton.  Some  of  their  crops,  like  the  cane,  have  not  ■ 
covered  expenses  ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  bondholders  who 
now  have  the  estates  of  the  Khedive  find  it  diflicult  to 
fight  old  traditions  and  the  unwieldy  mass  of  the  customs 
and  habits  among  the  fellaheen,  and  that  they  too  are 
taking  a  step  backward.  By  continuing  the  wise  system  of 
irrigation  commenced  by  Ismail,  and  the  employment  of 
experienced  American  planters  to  change  the  present 
s>*stcm  to  that  which  will  cause  the  soil  to  yield  lis  full 
capacity  ;  by  a  judicious  expcnditiirc  for  suitable  imple- 
ments for  the  culture  of  cotton,  com,  and  sugar-cane,  with 
such  a  perfect  clim.tte,  free  from  frost,  returns  should  be 
obtained  greater  than  those  of  any  other  country.  The 
great  Ibrahim  Canal,  which  Ismail  hoped  to  Finish,  with  its 
immense  dikes  and  basins,  was  incomplete  at  his  fall.  It 
does  not  furnish  the  necessary-  volume  of  alluvial  soil,  and 
in  consequence  docs  great  injury  to  much  of  the  lands  by 
its  injudicious  use.  After  the  water  of  the  Nile  has  settled 
it  produces  an  infiltration,  there  being  a  destructive  saline 
property  in  the  soil,  which  is  thus  made  to  come  to  the 
surface.  It  has  also  been  the  custom  to  use  as  manure  the 
debris  of  the  ancient  ruins,  which  is  filled  with  nitre.  This 
mistaken  policy  has  done  considcr.-ible  injury  to  the  lands. 
Some  of  my  acquaintances,  as  there  was  no  rotation  in 
crops  as  in  other  countries,  used  phosphates  and  im- 
ported fertilizers.  They  have  in  this  way  furnished  their 
rich  soil  with  an  element  that  seemed  wanting;  and  thU 
has  been  particulaHy  bcnclicial  in  the  cultivation  of  cane 
and  cotton,  so  exhaustive  to  all  lands. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

THEBES. 

A  gUaca  M  aiicj«nl  Egypt— I«r)icIitUh  bondtgv— The  UcmendouB  gap  In 
Esjrpt'^"  hiMory— Reign  o!  jjueen  HaUJou— VkiMks  and  magnilieence 
of  Thoihmes  III. —  Rjimcon  II.  the  Greek  Sesoitris— Ttic  (enipin  ot 
Kanuk  uid  LiinOT  ot  Thclic*-  Scrne*  and  dcvcription*  on  ihcir  w»U« 
— Fklniinic  and  sculpture  on  the  wslli  of  the  tombc— Th«  '*  Book  of  iha 
De»d"— The  teligion  of  old  Egypt— Perfect  record  of  life,  polilical,  | 
Kllgioiu,  uid  mcIbI.  inKtltied  on  the  in anu menu— The  ruin*  o(  Tbcbel 
Diuurpawcd  lor  tiupcndout  grsndcur. 

Having  spoken  at  some  length  o!  the  Egypt  of  to-day, 
I  cannot  refrain  from  devoting  a  chapter  to  the  magnificent 
and  mysterious  Egypt  of  the  past,  whose  monuments  tell 
us  such  a  fascinating  story.  To-day  a  football  for  the  more 
powerful  peoples  of  the  world,  Eg>'pt  was  then  one  of  the 
mightiest  of  nations,  and  stood  foremost  in  political  slAtus, 
in  wisdom,  and  in  the  arts.  This  supremacy  Eg>-pt  held 
for  a  much  longer  period  than  has  been  vouchsafed  to  any 
other  nation. 

A  period  of  the  greatest  interest  in  Egyptian  history  is 
that  of  the  residence  of  the  Uraclitcs,  The  first  authentic 
record  of  the  coming  of  the  Semitic  race  into  Egypt  is 
found  on  the  monuments  of  the  twelfth  dynasty.  At, 
lteni-H.issan,  not  far  above  Cairo,  there  is  pictured  in  a 
tomb  a  Semitic  chief  by  the  name  of  Abaslia,  with  all  his 
family  and  attendants  presenting  gifts  on  his  arrival.  For 
a  long  time  it  was  thought  that  this  was  Jacob  and  his 
party,  who  had  come  on  the  invitation  of  the  patriarch 
Joseph.  It  is  now  believed  the  chief  mentioned  may  have 
had  the  same  inducements  as  those  detailed  in  the  case  of 


Tkotma  It, 


THEBES. 


»5< 


Abraham  and  Sarah  (Gen.  12  :  10).  whose  sojourn  in  Egypt 
U  the  earliest  mentioned  in  the  Sacred  Hook.  It  was  after 
this,  during  the  fourteenth  dynasty,  that  Egypt  was  in- 
vaded by  the  hyksos  or  shepherd  kings,  the  government 
overturned,  the  tempk-s  pillaged,  and  a  grievous  yoke  im* 
posed  upon  the  people.  The  latter  fact  is  evidenced  by 
the  perfect  silence  which  reigned  for  a  long  series  of  years. 
Another  era  of  prosperity  dawned,  and  the  monuments  of 
the  seventeenth  dynasty  sliow  a  high  state  of  civilization. 
The  in%'aders  had  become  enlightened  by  contact  with  the 
conquered,  .ind  the  scat  of  empire  was  established  atTanis. 
The  opinion  is  well  founded  that  it  was  under  Apcpi,  one 
of  the  late  kings  of  this  dynasty,  that  the  patriarch  Joseph 
came  to  Egypt,  and  being,  like  the  king,  Semitic,  there  was 
a  natural  reason  in  this  r.ict  of  his  having  been  the  minis- 
ter of  that  Pharaoh.  Amoi>is,  a  descendant  of  the  early 
Pharaohs,  who  had  a  lodgment  at  Thebes,  suddenly  burst 
upon  the  hykios  king,  and  in  a  short  and  bloody  war  con- 
quered him.  The  grcitcr  portion  of  the  vanquished  people 
fled  into  AMia,  and  arc  thought  to  be  what  was  known  as 
the  Philistine  nation,  who  subsequently  formed  an  alliance 
with  the  I^ittitcs  and  were  in  constant  war  with  the  Eg>'p- 
tians. 

There  followed,  in  the  eighteenth  dynasty,  many  power- 
ful kings,  who  made  Egypt  more  prosperous  than  ever,  and 
achieve<!  for  her  a  great  influence  at  home  and  abro.ad, 
which  culmin.itcd  in  the  reign  of  TholhmcsIII.  For  fifteen 
years  this  king  was  directed  by  his  sister  Ilatasou  as  regent, 
though  this  was  really  a  usur|)3tion,  as  she  had  played  the 
same  rOlc  with  her  brother  Thoihmcs  II.,  and  was  virtually 
•queen  at  that  time.  She  was  ambitious,  and  carried  her 
b.inner  into  Asia.  She  chained  nations  to  her  car.  while  in 
peace  she  was  a  great  constructor,  building  munificent 
temples  and  the  two  beautiful  obelisks  at  Karnak.  Brugsch 
Bey  sa>'s  she  never  hesitated  to  sacrifice  life,  even  that  of 
her  brother,  whose  early  death  is  attributed   to  her.  to 


TttEBES. 


»S3 


until  long  after  the  greater  era  of  the  Pyramids.  About 
the  eleventh  dynasty  it  showed  growing  evidences  of  im. 
portance.  Memphis  having  been  before  that  the  scat  of 
empire,  of  luxury,  and  of  power.  It  was  through  an  epoch 
of  gloom  and  darkness  that  Thebes  emerged  into  impor- 
tance and  attained  its  greatest  splendor  during  the  twelfth 
d>'nasty,  one  of  the  brightest  epochs  of  ancient  history. 
Mariettc  Bey  makes  this  the  commencement  of  the  Middle 
Empire,  and  tells  us  that  after  the  sixth  dynasty  there  was 
a  period  of  436  years  during  which  the  monuments  of 
Egypt  were  almost  entirely  silent,  and  asks  :  "  Was  It  pos- 
sible that  an  invasion  plunged  Egypt  into  such  profound 
darkness  after  the  '  splendid  era  '  of  the  PjTamids  ?  Or 
was  it  a  crisis  of  weakness,  by  which  the  life  of  nations,  like 
that  of  man.  Is  sometimes  crossed  ?  Maybe,  again,  it  is  our 
ignorance  of  the  capitals  of  the  four  missing  dynasties 
which  arc  yet  to  be  found  and  will  unfold  the  mystery." 
There  is  no  era  in  the  history  of  the  world  more  worthy  of 
serious  attention  than  this  epoch  so  graphically  noted  by 
Mariette  Bey  :  "  U  Is  certain  that  for  many  centuries  before 
this  Egypt  appears  as  a  highly  enlightened  people,  while 
the  rest  of  the  world  was  in  utter  darkness  and  barbarism, 
and  the  most  illustrious  nations  that  lately  played  so  distin- 
guished a  part  in  the  affairs  of  the  world  were  in  a  savage 
state.  Before  the  sixth  dynasty,  Memphis,  then  in  her 
glorj',  was  a  powerful  monarchy,  supported  by  a  formidable 
organization  of  functionaries  and  employes  who  already 
controlled  the  destiny  of  Egypt."  Going  back  In  the  his- 
tory of  time  almost  to  the  biblical  date  of  the  origin  of 
man,  the  civlliication  of  Eg>'pt  is  mature.  At  this  time  the 
Great  I*>Tamid3  were  made  impervious  to  rains  or  to  floods, 
and  the  sands  of  the  desert  had  hermetically  scaled  the 
rocky  tombs  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile.  Was  it  then  that 
the  wisdom  of  the  past  was  placed  in  them,  to  secure  iC 
against  not  only  the  encro.tchmcnts  of  time,  but  the  fear- 
ful events  of  the  deluge  ?     As  already  stated,  it  is  believed 


TJIB8BS. 


that  in  this  era  of  darkness,  after  the  sixth  dynasty,  there 
\%  not  the  slightest  evidence,  cither  on  papyrus,  tomb,  or 
monument,  to  show  that  a  single  human  being  existed  in 
Egypt.  It  in  very  well  known  that  the  Pyramids  and  the 
monuments  coeval  with  them  arc  the  oldest  works  of  man 
existing  on  the  earth,  and  that  if  man  had  not  destroyed 
them,  climate  and  time  would  have  done  it.  had  they  been 
located  in  other  parts  of  the  world.  In  Eg>'pt  they  have 
defied  the  touch  of  time  as  well  as  the  ravages  of  conquest. 
Besides  the  precautions  taken  by  the  wise  builders  to 
preserve  them,  the  climate  has  aided  to  save  them  from 
destruction. 

The  Nile  divides  Thebes.  On  the  cast  arc  the  remains 
of  the  grand  temples  of  Karnak  and  Luxor,  around  which 
the  dense  population  lived  ;  on  the  other  side  are  templesJ 
and  palaces,  and  behind  these  is  the  immense  Necropolis, 
where  repose  the  dead  of  the  city,  and,  in  separate  tombs, 
the  mummies  of  the  kings  and  queens.  Riding  over  the 
waving  green  on  the  west  side,  two  grand  objects  salute 
you,  gigantic  statues  of  stone  sixty  feet  high.  The  wisdom 
of  the  world  for  ages  has  gazed  in  admiration  upon  them, 
one  of  them  being  Memnon's  statue,  which  at  sunrise  is 
said  to  have  emitted  vocal  sounds.  It  was  broken  by  an 
earthquake  a.d.  27,  and  repaired  by  the  Romans.  Though 
the  feMures  of  both  are  defaced,  still  they  are  very  attrac- 
tive. Erected  by  Amenoph  III.  of  the  twelfth  dynasty, 
they  represent  him,  and  all  that  is  left  of  eighteen  similar 
statues  forming  an  avenue  leading  to  his  palace  ;  the  rest, 
with  the  palace,  have  disappeared  ;  the  debris  is  covered 
with  the  soil  of  the  Nile,  and  golden  grain  marks  the  spot 
where  they  once  stood.  A  short  distance  back  is  the 
entrance,  between  two  high  statues,  into  the  immense  niins 
of  the  temple  of  Memnonium.  They  sit  in  Egyptian  re- 
pose, with  their  hands  upon  their  knees,  as  though  weighed 
down  with  mighty  thought.  Overwhelmed  by  the  broken 
columns,  statues,  and  fragments  heaped  around  you,  climb- 1 


TffSBBS. 


»SS 


in^  and  dodging  under  and  over  them,  you  find  a  passage 
difficult,  but  35  your  interest  increases  yon  feel  compen- 
sated (or  your  labor.  Kvcry  vestige,  with  its  hidden  lan- 
guage engraved  upon  it.  tells  of  bygone  customs,  habits, 
and  religion.  Inscriptions  over  massive  doors  point  to 
their  enormous  libraries.  Herodotus  says  no  people  stored 
their  records  and  recollections  as  they  did.  They  culti- 
vated not  only  the  mysteries  of  tlicir  profound  and  philo- 
sophical religion,  but  their  literature  was  founded  upon  the 
highest  scientific  knowledge,  and  furnished  the  Alexan- 
drian library  with  400,000  rolls  of  jMpjTus  and  20,O0O 
books  of  Hermes.  Wandering  to  the  remains  of  the  palace 
of  Rameses  II.,  like  everybody  else  I  climbed  with  no  little 
risk  into  n-hat  is  called  the  harem  of  that  celebrated  Pha- 
raoh, to  watch  his  game  of  chess  with  a  beautiful  young 
woman,  one  arm  around  a  second,  while  chucking  a  third 
pretty  creature  under  the  chin.  It  is  interesting,  while 
wandering  among  these  ruins,  to  find  evidence  that  this 
great  statesman  and  warrior  forgot  the  cares  of  state  in 
refined  intercourse  with  fair  women,  and  that  3000  years 
ago  he  was  so  charmed  with  their  sweet  allurements  that  he 
had  this  beautiful  scene  deeply  engraved  upon  the  m.issive 
walls  of  this  palace,  for  future  ages  to  look  upon  and  admire 
as  a  memorial  of  hts  kingly  gallantry.  There  is  no  object 
that  so  arrests  the  attention  of  all  who  visit  Egypt  as  the 
remains  of  the  grand  statue  of  this  king.  Composed  of 
black  granite,  it  ivas  brought  300  miles  down  the  Nile,  from 
where  it  was  quarried,  and  placed  in  front  of  this  palace. 
It  weighs  nine  hundred  tons,  is  twenty-three  feet  between 
the  ithouldcTs,  and  its  foot  is  eleven  feet  long.  Further  to 
realize  its  magnitude,  it  will  be  recollected  that  the  obelisk 
brought  from  Egypt  weighs  only  300  tons,  and  yet  it 
required  the  most  skilful  engineers  of  the  time  to  remove  it 
from  Alexandria  to  New  York  and  put  it  on  its  pedestal  in 
Central  Park.  Though  immense  in  si^e.  probably  the  larg- 
est sculpture  in  the  world,  artists  have  said  this  statue  is 


.56 


ri/EBBS. 


faultless  in  proportions.  Ramcscs  II..  the  Pharaoli  whom 
this  idol  rc-proRcnts  (believed  to  be  the  Scsostm  of  the 
Greek),  was  a  high  priest,  thought  himself  divine,  was  wor- 
uliippcd  while  living,  and  was  dcilicd  after  death.  As 
grand  in  size  as  it  is  fine  in  workmanship,  the  idol  is  broken 
in  its  middle,  and  the  body  with  its  gigantic  head  lies  prone 
upon  the  ground.  "  with  all  its  majesty  seated  on  its  brow.*' 
"  The  God  of  truth  has  executed  judgment  upon  all  the 
gods  of  Eg>-pt."  Strange  to  say,  during  the  last  year  the 
mummies  of  thirty-nine  kings,  queens,  and  other  dignitaries 
have  been  discovered,  in  a  cave  where  tht-y  were  hidden 
thousands  of  years  ago  to  prevent  desecniton  by  an  in- 
vader. They  had  been  previoualy  taken  out  of  their  own 
gorgeous  tombs,  which  were  constructed  by  themselves  be- 
fore their  death  3500  years  ago  for  their  sepulchres. 

.'\mong  these  kings  arc  those  famous  and  mighty  Pha- 
raohs, Haiasou  the  tllusiriousqueen,  Thothme«  ni.,Seti  I., 
and  Ramesca  II.  Most  great  Egyptologistit,  Christians  and 
infidels,  s.-iy  that  if  such  a  man  .^s  Moses  existed,  and  the 
events  followed  as  r<;Iated  in  the  Okl  Testament,  it  must 
have  been  during  the  reigns  of  Kamcscs  II,  and  Mcncph- 
thah,  his  thirteenth  son  ;  and  that  Kamescs  must  be  the 
Pharaoh  to  whom  the  Bible  refers  as  not  "  knowing  Joseph 
the  patriarch,"  and  the  one  who  put  the  Israelites  in 
bondage. 

Joel  prophesied  the  destruction  of  Thebes  when  it  was  in 
its  greate^it  splendor,  and  he  was  followed  by  Isaiah  and 
Ezckicl.  I  propose  ncnv  [o  refer  particulaily  to  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  passages  of  Isaiah,  which,  though  evidently 
referring  to  a  king  in  his  own  day,  is  applicable  to  Ramcscs 
11.  The  mummy  of  Ramcscs,  one  of  the  greatest  of  kings, 
"  who  did  not  know  Joseph,"  that  was  brought  down  to  the 
grave,  the  bottomless  pit,  is  one  of  tho«e  lately  discov- 
ered, and  is  now  an  inmate  of  tlic  Boulac  Museum,  near 
Cairo,  for  the  curious  to  wonder  at  and  the  learned  to 
study.     History  tells  ug  that  he  conquered  a  large  portion  of 


Tf/KBHS. 


*57 


Asia,  and  that  he  constructed  more  of  the  gigantic  monii- 
ments  of  which  we  now  sec  the  ruins  than  any  other  of 
those  wonderful  Pharaohs.  The  prophecy  says:  "They 
that  sec  thee  shall  narrowly  look  upon  thcc.  and  consider 
thee,  saying,  Is  this  the  man  that  made  the  earth  to  trem- 
ble, and  that  did  shake  kingdoms  ;  that  made  the  world  as 
a  wilderness,  and  destroyed  the  cities  thereof ;  that  opened 
not  the  house  of  his  prisoners?  .  ■  .  Btit  thou  art  cast 
out  of  thy  grave  like  an  abominable  branch,  and  as  the 
raiment  of  those  that  arc  slain,  thrust  through  with  a 
sword,  that  go  down  to  the  stones  of  the  pit ;  as  a  carcass 
trodden  under  feet."  The  multitude  of  No  has  been  for 
centuries  as  silent  aA  the  stillness  of  the  desert  which  sur- 
rounds her  ;  the  land  is  still  "  tlie  basest  of  kingdoms." 
How  visible  and  unerring  seems  the  fulfilment  of  this 
prophecy ! 

You  arc  reminded  not  only  that  he  was  the  greatest  con- 
structor of  massive  buildings,  extending  even  to  the  remot- 
est boundary  of  Egypt,  but  that  he  was  also  a  great  propa- 
gator of  the  human  race,  in  being  the  father  of  no  less  than 
one  hundred  and  eighty-nine  children.  This  alone  should 
make  him  memorable  in  the  history  of  the  world.  Turning 
from  this  agreeable  episode,  it  is  difficult  to  realize  that 
you  arc  wandering  in  the  midst  of  stupendous  works, 
dating  many  thousands  of  years  back,  of  massive  architect- 
ure and  of  elaborate  ornament.  It  is  marvellous  that,  with 
a  knowledge  of  every  mechanical  art,  these  people  should 
always  have  built  in  the  fiamc  unchanging  conventional 
manner  during  such  an  immense  period  of  time.  Their 
religion,  too,  like  their  temples,  was  shadowed  by  a 
gloomy  philosophy  ;  their  studies,  in  minutest  details,  were 
bound  by  irrevocable  laws,  and,  what  is  still  a  great  mystery 
to  scholars,  accompanied  by  loathsome  and  incomprehensi- 
ble superstitions.  Such  great  statesmen,  warriors,  and 
constructors  as  Thothmcs  III.  and  Rameses  11.  felt  hon- 
ored and  sanctified  as  high  priests  of  this  religion,  and  en- 


iss 


THEBES, 


forced  implicit  obedience  to  the  worship  of  stony  symbols- 
and  the  adoration  of  the  crocodile,  the  vilest  of  reptiles. 
Queen  and  princesses  in  their  palaces,  holding  on  high  the 
sifttrum  and  dressed  in  gorgeous  nrray,  aided  these  renowned 
kings  in  performing  the  ceremonies  of  their  extraordinary 
religion.  Having  written  of  these  grand  old  Pharaohs, 
"  who  made  the  earth  to  tremble  and  did  shake  kingdoms," 
it  is  pleasant  to  turn  now  and  then  to  the  liglita  and  shades 
of  domestic  life  amnng  the  people,  admirably  and  graphic 
cally  pictured,  and,  curiously  enough,  mostly  found  in  their 
tombs,  alt  other  evidences  of  their  existence  having  passed 
away.  Here  are  seen  husband  and  wife  embracing  each 
other  in  a  loving  manner  among  agreeable  rural  .scenes  of 
grain  and  fruit  trees.  Young  men  and  pretty  maidens- 
make  love  as  to-day,  and  with  the  music  of  the  harp  enjoy 
the  dance  together.  Every  kind  of  industry  is  represented, 
much  of  it  like  that  of  the  present  day — mechanics  making 
tndescrit>ablc  things  for  palaces  and  temples,  and  shoe- 
makers hammering  away  at  their  lasts.  It  is  not  uncom- 
mon to  find  the  head  of  a  grand  family  and  his  interesting 
spouse  doing  the  honors  of  a  rich  entertainment,  and  ladies 
seated  en  gramie  ttnue  with  the  lotus-flower  in  their  delicate 
hands,  or  presenting  it  to  their  companions  to  inhale  its 
precious  perfume  and  mysterious  power.  We  can  fancy 
them  gossiping  of  dress  and  jewelry  or  exhibiting  their 
beautiful  babies  for  the  admiration  of  their  visitors.  It  is 
easy  to  imagine  one's  self  (so  perfectly  arc  things  pictured) 
being  present  at  and  a  participant  in  the  active  scene  of 
four  thousand  years  ago.  There  are  representations  of  the 
elaborate  cuisine,  with  servants  washing  and  stewing  fruit, 
making  wine,  and  kneading  bread  with  the  naked  feet.  In 
his  chariot  a  great  personage  is  seen  coming  to  the  banquet, 
whil'j  men  and  women  divert  him  with  pleasant  converaa- 
tion.  The  feast  prepared,  the  wine  flows,  and  all  is  enjoy- 
racnt.  When  mirth  and  joy  arc  at  their  height,  a  stiff, 
stark  mummy,  the  former  representative  of  the  household. 


Htmd  9f  Rammi  II., 


/ 


TIIEBES. 


«S9 


is  brought  in.  These  most  religious  of  all  peoples  were  on 
all  occasions  reminded  that  in  life  the>'  wc/c  in  the  midst 
of  death,  that  the  living  should  regulate  their  conduct  for  a 
future  state  ;  and  still  more  to  show  his  guests  how  thin  is 
the  partition  between  time  and  eternity,  there  was  already 
engraved  on  the  wall*  of  his  tomb,  ordered  by  himself,  a 
rcprescnt.ttion  of  the  funeral  procession  of  the  giver  of  the 
entertainment,  in  anticipation  of  what  the  ceremony  and 
mourning  would  be  after  death.  Wife  and  daughter  in  the 
agony  of  grief  are  standing  near  the  bier,  preceded  by  a 
priest  in  grand  ceremony,  the  cortege  followed  by  women 
with  dishevelled  hair,  dusted  heads,  and  faces  distorted  in 
the  utterance  of  fearful  cries.  Not%vithstanding  that  the 
mummy  ts  made  to  act  a  part  so  significantt  it  often 
occurred  that  the  guests  became  drunk  enough  to  be  car- 
ried home  on  the  shoulders  of  their  servants,  and  the 
women  arc  depicted  in  like  condition  with  the  men.  In 
these  tombs  every  phase  of  theii  extraordinary  religion  is 
elaborately  engraved  upon  the  sarcophagi  or  written  upon 
pap>TUs  in  the  form  of  the  voluminous  book  of  the  dead 
which  is  deposited  with  the  mummy.  The  Rgyptians  bc- 
licve<l  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  in  the  resurrection 
of  the  dead,  and  in  future  rewards  and  punishments.     The 

^ablest  thinkers  in  studying  this  religion  give  powerful  rea- 
sons for  the  opinion  that  all  the  evidences  point  to  the  con- 
clusion that  the  people  believed  originally  in  one  God — a 
belief  derived,  it  is  thought,  from  an  earlier  revelation.  It 
is  evident  that  this  religion,  which  is  philosophical,  was  in 
the  course  of  time  very  much  elevated,  but  mystical ;  at 

-fir^t  pure  and  simple,  hut  eventually  wonderfully  compli- 
cated. This  was  the  religion  of  the  priesthood,  but  thet*.- 
was  another  (or  the  people.  Gross  and  tangible,  It  was 
purely  s>-mbolical,  rcpreientinf^  the  nurncroii!*  .tltributcs  of 
a  supreme  being.  Losing  sight  of  the  grand  impersonal 
idea,  the  faith  of  the  multitude  became  nothing  more  than 
the  worship  of  stocks  and  stones  and  the  deification  of  the 


i6o 


THEBE^. 


«yinbot  itself,  nnd  ended  in  the  setting  up  of  n  god  for 
every  village  and  town  iind  for  evcr\'  day  and  year.  At  an  i 
early  era.  when  in  her  splendor,  ligypt  accepted  a  magnifi- 
cent religion,  embodying  most  of  her  theories  of  the  past, 
and  one  which  was  thought  to  l>c  most  suitable  to  all 
classes.  It  appealed  to  the  vulgar  mind,  and  enabled  the 
priesthood  to  involve  it  in  deeper  mysticism  and  more 
bciiuttful  symbolisms.  They  adopted  the  trinity  of  Osiris, 
IsIs,  and  Horus  in  the  place  of  a  former  universal  God. 
These  new  gods  overshadowed  and  controlled  all  the  innu- 
merable minor  deities.  They  have  engraved  Osiris  ("  The 
Book  of  the  Dead"  explains  the  entire  scheme)  sitting  in 
judgment  in  the  other  world  ;  "  Amcntc,"  the  altar  of  sacri- 
fice is  in  front  of  him,  the  soul  of  the  dead  is  in  his  presence, 
after  passing  tlie  ordeal  of  forty-two  assessors  in  Hades. 
Immediately  in  front  arc  the  scales  of  justice,  resting  on 
the  shoulders  of  a  god,  with  an  ape,  the  emblem  of  equilib- 
rium, on  the  top  of  the  balance.  The  four  genii  of  the 
dead,  standing  on  a  lotus-flower,  guard  the  interest  of  the 
soul.  The  beautiful  and  ever-loving  goddesses,  Ists  and 
Nephthys,  are  near  to  intercede  for  poor  humanity.  Horus. 
the  saviour,  while  pleading  with  Osiris,  places  the  soul  in 
the  balance,  after  it  has  passed  through  purgatory,  a 
feather,  representing  truth  and  justice,  in  one  scale,  and  its 
evil  deeds  in  the  other.  The  god  Anubis  dictates  the  ac- 
count to  Thoth,  the  god  of  letters,  who  records  the  %vcight 
upon  his  tablet.  The  great  judge  Osiris  declares  the  scn- 
tenc!?,  and  the  officers  of  punishment  then  execute  the  fiat. 
In  a  country  like  Kgypt,  where  the  climate  and  soil  are 
s(i  fitted  for  the  habitation  of  man,  the  imagination  in 
picturing  a  heaven  naturally  embodied  the  notion  as  thus 
expressed  by  a  learned  Egj-ptian  :  "A  sort  of  celestial 
F-gypt,  with  a  celestial  Nile  and  Its  accompaniments,  which 
was  entered,  in  ascending  from  Hades,  through  a  gate 
called  Ammah,  the  whole  being  .symbolized  by  a  female 
with   her  arms   above   her    head,    swimming    in    celestial 


-'*■- 


TI/HBES. 


161 


space."  Everywhere  there  are  celestial  fields  dcmonstrat* 
ing  work  and  progress.  Souls  recline  amid  beautiful  rural 
scenes,  by  the  side  of  cool,  limpid,  and  shady  streams,  and 
their  senses  arc  enchanted  with  sweet  sung  and  delicious 
music.  It  was  with  tlic  [amiliar  objects  of  their  earthly  life 
that  their  souls  seem  delighted  in  Paradise.  This  *'  Book 
of  Ihc  Dead."  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  Egyptian 
Bible,  not  only  portrays  their  sensuous  heaven,  but  the 
infernal  region  is  also  painted  in  lurid  colors  and  deeply 
engraved  upon  their  tombs,  which  display  a  hideous  .series 
of  no  less  than  fourteen  abodes.  The  god  Ra  is  often  seen 
lighting  up  the  infernal  fires  within  these  abodes,  and  the 
hippopotamus  god,  who  had  been  at  the  judgment  of  the 
souls  in  the  regions  above,  is  here  seen  in  the  distance, 
with  his  great  mouth  open,  waiting  his  share  of  the  "  lost." 
and  ready  to  swallow  the  shades  of  the  damned.  The 
scenes  throughout  this  terrible  place  become  painfully  ex- 
citing. Numerous  devils,  aided  by  fierce-looking  lions, 
called  "  roaring  monsters,"  are  seen  thrusting  with  great 
activity  bad  Egyptians  into  a  terrible  place  described  as  the 
"  bottomless  pit."  Osiris,  the  great  judge,  and  Horus,  the 
avenger  as  well  as  the  saviour,  arc  seen  here  holding  ser- 
pents. These  creatures  carry  the  three-pronged  fork,  vomit 
fire  upon  pinioned  criminab,  and  direct  the  use  of  instru- 
ments of  torture.  They  are  further  engaged  in  tormenting 
souls  in  still  deeper  and  more  agonizing  pits  beneath.  The 
ape  who  figured  above  is  here  a  "  minister  of  vengeance." 
There  he  was  seated  on  the  balance  ;  now  he  guards  the 
infernal  boundaries  like  the  triple-headed  Cerberus  of  the 
Greeks.  Maricttc  Bey  and  many  other  Egyptologists  think 
they  make  out  from  the  monuments  the  belief  of  a  second 
death  to  the  condemned,  which  was  annihilation. 

I  entered  the  great  Propylon  of  the  temple  of  Karnak, 
fronting  the  Nile.  River  mud  is  now  thrown  around  a 
[>ortion  of  it,  and  this  with  the  water  in  time  of  overflow  is 
loosening  the  foundations  of  the  mighty  structure.     Dean 


i6a 


THEBES. 


Stanley  wrote  of  this  temple  :  "It  is  the  most  magnificent 
building  ever  erected  by  man  for  the  worship  of  the  Most 
High."  Climbing  a  colonnade  near  the  entrance,  standing 
on  its  summit,  which  overlooks  the  stupendous  pile,  and 
taking  within  the  vision  the  extensive  valle>'s  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  the  hills  circling  back  in  the  distance,  which  ■ 
gives  the  space  for  the  great  city  of  Thebes,  1  tried  to  scan  H 
its  limits,  where  once  stood  its  hundred  gates  and  gorgeous 
palaces,  known  to  have  been  between  this  temple  and  the 
Mokattum  hills.  On  the  cast  and  south  lived  the  dense 
population,  and  here  was  situated  the  beautiful  "lake  of 
the  dead."  The  remains  of  crumbling  sphinxes  line  the, 
avenue  on  the  south,  two  miles  in  length,  which  is  tb( 
only  one  left  of  ten  which  set  out  from  this  temple  and] 
led  to  the  great  temple  of  Luxor  and  to  other  grand] 
objects  that  once  stood  within  this  extensive  valley,  over] 
which  the  gorgeous  processions  of  kings  and  priests  wer 
accustomed  to  march  into  the  temple.  Looking  across  the] 
river  to  the  temples  and  palaces  on  the  other  side,  which' 
stand  abruptly  against  the  Libyan  hills,  arc  seen  in  solitude 
the  two  great  statues  of  Memnon.  in  the  centre  of  the  wide  ] 
and  cultivated  plain.  In  front  and  rear  of  them,  though 
the  space  was  once  Hlled  with  palaces,  there  is  not  now  even 
debris  to  mark  the  spot.  Yet,  with  all  its  utter  ruin,  it  is  a.j 
wondrous  scene.  But  your  amazement  increases  as  you 
call  to  mind  the  magnificent  avenues  which  led  from  the 
temples  of  Kamak  and  Luxor  to  those  on  the  other  side. 
In  the  place  of  palaces  and  fairy-like  gardens  that  once 
encircled  these  hills  and  temples,  nothing  but  fearful 
deserts  greet  the  eye.  But  for  a  few  stray  Arabs  and 
camels,  and  now  and  then  a  green  spot,  eternal  silence 
would  reign  here.  Surrounded  by  its  palm^groves  and 
flowery  bowers,  this  city  stood  in  the  focus  of  commerce  to 
which  Egypt,  Ethiopia,  and  Asia  paid  tribute.  The  great 
caravans  with  the  riches  of  the  East  came  hither  as  to  the 
centre  of  the  world's  wealth.     At  certain  periods  the  whole 


rj/ES£S. 


>6i 


population  of  ^ypt  flocked  hither  for  secular  and  religious 
purposes,  and  the  Nile  floated  its  endless  shipping  to  its 
shores.  There  was  no  spot  on  earth  where  there  wns  so 
busy  a  scene.  It  was  here  for  centuries  that  Eg>-pt  con- 
centrated her  greatest  political  and  sacerdotal  power,  and 
wherv  the  voluptuous  rites  of  Isis  and  Ammon  Re  were 
celebrated  in  such  splendor.  The  great  hall  of  the  temple 
beneath,  with  its  mighty  columns  and  massive  walls  richly 
sculptured  and  painted,  though  now  broken  and  defaced,  is 
yet  so  amazing  that  no  eloquence  can  portray  its  magnitude 
and  beauty.  Engravtxl  upon  its  walls  is  the  history  of  the 
wars,  conquests,  and  great  civil  administration  of  Tlioth- 
mcs  III.  and  Kamcscs  II.  On  the  south  wall  is  what  has 
been  thought  to  be  a  scene  in  the  history  of  King  Shishak, 
who  captured  Jerusalem  and  brought  to  Egypt  the  vessels 
of  the  holy  temple.  He  is  threatening  a  number  of  pris- 
>ners  standing  bound  before  him,  and  among  them  is  sup- 

'^poscd  to  be  Jehudah-Mcick,  the  King  of  the  Jews.  The 
Pharaoh  is  in  his  chariot,  larger  than  life,  holding  a  drawn 
sword  of  enormous  size,  and  from  the  savage  look  he  gives 
his  captives  one  imagines  him  about  to  cut  ofF  the  heads  of 
the  liirge  cavalcade  with  his  own  hand. 

In  observing  the  noble  faces  of  these  prisoners  and  their 
intellectual  development,  so  much  superior  to  any  other 
faces  engraved  upon  the  monuments,  it  seemed  to  me  that 

pin  comparing  them  with  the  highest  Israelitish  type  of  this 
day.  a  strong  resemblance  is  disccrnibic.  There  is  one 
object,  as  interesting  as  any  in  Egypt,  which  stands  among 
the  accumulated  fragments,  pointing  far  above  all  others, 
even  in  this  wonderful  structure.     It  is  the  loftiest,  best 

!  engraved,  and  most  gracefully  formed  of  any  obelisk  in  the 
world.  It  was  erected  by  Hatasou,  the  famous  queen  of 
antiquity,  as  an  ofTering  of  filial  love,  and  time  has  dealt 
with  it  gently  as  a  record  of  woman's  devotion.  How 
many  nations  has  it  seen  rise  and  crumble  !  And  yet  there 
it  stands,  it  is  to  be  hoped  forever.     May  no  sacrilegious 


i64  THEBES. 

hand  ever  attempt  to  despoil  Egypt  of  this,  one  of  her  most 
sacred  altars.  While  standing  here,  I  tried  to  recall  some- 
of  the  images  of  the  past,  to  fill  these  vast  halls  with  the 
assembled  wisdom  of  renowned  kings  and  chiefs  coming  to 
deliberate  for  the  nation,  and  to  conjure  up  the  conclave  of 
that  great  priesthood  assembling  for  sacerdotal  ceremony  ; 
but  the  mind,  awed  by  the  immensity  of  the  scene,  fails 
even  to  grasp  its  shadow.  Yet  it  is  known  that  "  the  same 
emotions,  passions,  and  fears  of  our  common  humanity  once 
held  high  revel  there,"  and  upon  these  temples,  palaces, 
and  tombs  much  of  their  laws,  religion,  and  history  is 
written,  though  it  may  be  but  a  slight  evidence  of  a  de- 
parted people.  I  have  often  visited  these  saddened  ruins 
of  mighty  Thebes,  and  have  always  left  them  with  regret, 
in  spite  of  the  fact  that  "  a  single  column  often  marks  the 
spot  of  palaces  once  the  abode  of  enlightened  man,  and  in 
equal  desolation  temples  of  God  whose  shrines  no  longer 
bum." 


CHAPTER    XIV. 
THE  OVERTHROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


Tbo  MrJi«r  (lifficulUe*  oE  Itntall  Paclu— Protest  ol  Ibc  Sutun  a^inal  the 
rigbt  ol  Egypt  to  negotiate  lunH — How  the  Sublime  Pone  was  bought 
over — The  Kbedive  receives  a  Gtman  conBnnlng  the  lucccMlon  in  hla 
own  line— Arrival  ol  Mr.  Cjive  In  Egypt  to  invcstijtate  the  Ananccs— 
Hr.  Cave  report*  their  hopeleos  condltion—Intcrefi  of  $15,500,000  to  be 
paid  on  Ibe  debt  out  o(  a  revenue  o(  ^5.500.000— The  Mauklb&[a — By 
advice  ol  th«  English  consul,  England  and  France  atr  asked  10  scad 
two  cotnpiroilcix  of  tbc  debt — Arrival  ol  Mcsiri.  Goscbcn  and  Joubcrt  - 
Jtfnall  is  lur»iiken  bv  bin  (fiends  ihrougbuut  Europe  -Fate  ol  Sadik 
Pacbii — The  Khedirr  ts  sued  in  the  Internalional  Court — Arrival  ot  vait 
aumbert  ol  Engllihmcn  10  fatten  on  the  Kbcdivc— Nalivc  clerk*  all  di»- 
diarged  (roiu  the  admin iitrallon — Civil  and  niiliury  olQciali  luiler  (ram 
DOR'paymeat  ol  artcan— [small  yields  up  hi*  abmlute  powrrsnd  be- 
comes a  const itulionat  prince — He  gives  up  hi*  private  ctlate  Ivr  the 
goodol  Egypt— First  beginnings  of  a  national  parly -Nubar  P.-icha  and 
hi*  ministry  driven  from  power— Isoinil  Inlerfcrcs  to  prevent  bloodshed 
—He  is  depfived  of  alt  power  In  his  own  cabinet — He  buldly  dlsniiMes 
tbc  forci finer*  And  resumes  power— A  lltc-and-dcHih  struggle— Ismail  is 
vanquished  and  deposed  by  a  finnan  of  the  Sultan. 

In  order  that  the  causes  may  be  known  which  led  to 
the  abdication  of  Khedive  Ismail  and  the  disasters  which 
accompanied  his  downfall,  it  is  ncct:ssaiy  to  give  a  brief 
account  of  the  financial  troubles  which  were  the  occasion  of 
it.  To  begin,  it  is  simply  necessary  to  state  that  from  the 
published  official  record  it  appeared  that  thc.ic  English  and 
French  bondholders,  of  whom  so  much  has  been  said,  had 
loaned  to  Eg>'pt  over  $450,000,000,  for  which  they  had 
received  her  bonds.  Upon  investigation  it  was  found  that 
less  than  $225,000,000,  under  any  pretence,  was  ever 
received  or  could  be  properly  charged  to  her.  It  further 
appeared  that  out  of  this  last  amount  supposed  to  have 


i66 


TH&  OVBHTHROW  OF  /SMA/l. 


been  borrowed,  iherc  had  never  been  discovered  more  than 
$So.ooo,ooo,  the  amount  expended  in  the  construction  of 
tlic  Suez  Canal,  and  it  i<t  difficult  to  uy  how  much  of  the. 
loan  (^40,000,000)  contracted  by  Safd  Pacha,  which  he  left  1 
as  a  legacy  to  Ismail,  his  successor,  was  ever  expended  in 
the  public  improvement  of  Egypt,  or  that  she  had  ever 
received  any  benefit  from  it.  The  fact  is  unquestioned, 
that  all  the  enormous  public  improvements  at  this  time 
were  paid  for  alone  from  the  rr^tmus  of  the  country.  It 
must  be  also  understood  that  Ismail  alone  was  the  state, 
and  had  so  mixed  up  his  private  with  the  public  transac- 
tions that  it  is  doubtful  whether  an  earnc:it  attempt  was 
ever  made  to  separate  them.  Every  dollar  was  othcrwiitc 
disposed  of,  as  already  stated.  The  greater  part  went  to 
pay  interest  on  existing  loans.  When  Ismail  I'acha  abdi- 
cated, the  debt  of  Egypt  and  his  own  per&onal  debt  stood 
at  about  $500,000,000.  This  huge  liability  was  the  sum 
total  of  eight  loans,  including  that  of  Said  and  two  on  what 
is  called  the  Daira,  the  private  estate  of  the  Khedive, 
together  with  the  interest  which  had  accumulated  from 
tiiOz,  the  time  of  the  first  loan,  to  1S78,  when  the  last  loan 
wax  effected. 

Before  these  loans  were  made  it  was  known  that  Egypt 
was  too  poor  to  liquidate  them.  But  with  prospective 
usury  so  overwhelming,  the  money-lenders  of  Europe  were 
willing  to  take  the  chances,  believing  that  their  great  gov- 
ernments would  make  so  insignificant  ;t  power  as  Egypt  pay 
up.  Several  of  these  loans  were  effected  in  the  face  of  the 
solemn  protest  of  the  Turkish  Government,  which  declared 
that  the  Khedive  had  no  legal  right  to  bind  the  revenues  of 
Egypt,  and  that  by  doing  so  without  its  sanction  the  Khe- 
dive was  invading  the  Porlc's  authority.  Subsequently, 
the  bondholders,  eager  to  drive  their  talons  still  deeper  into 
the  vitals  of  Egj'pt  and  impose  another  heavy  loan  on  the 
overburdened  country,  mollified  the  scruples  of  the  Sultan 
by  sending  the  Grand  Vister  a  present  of  a  quarter  of  a 


'  I 


.;i 


rUE  OVBKTUgOW  OF  iSMAlL. 


i«T 


million  dollars.  A  very  large  amount  being  required  to 
meet  the  increasing  interest  and  pay  that  already  due.  the 
Khedive  was  completely  in  their  power  and  compelled  to 
do  their  bidding.  In  order  to  force  on  him  their  surplus 
money  at  usurious  rates,  and  to  comply  at  the  same  time 
u'ith  the  Torms  of  law  and  secure  their  own  creatures  to 
manage  their  finances,  the  cunning  speculators  arranged  it 
so  as  to  dasKlc  the  Sublime  Porte  with  the  small  backsheesh 
of  $4,500,000 — a  reminder  of  the  admiration  they  enter- 
tained for  the  ■"  unspcalcable  Turk."  On  the  strength  of 
this  the  Khedive  received  authority  in  1873  to  contract  any 
loan  or  loans  he  pleased,  and  in  addition  to  this  a  firman 
secured  the  direct  right  of  descent  in  his  own  family. 

This  subtle  stroke  of  the  usurers,  the  consummation  of 
their  design,  had  necessarily  to  be  concealed  ;  and  in  order 
to  do  so  the  world  had  to  be  persuaded  it  was  entirely  a 
matter  of  state  policy  that  such  an  enormous  amount  of 
money  should  be  given  to  the  Sultan.  The  traditional 
idea,  so  lovingly  nurtured  by  the  rulers  of  Eg>'pt,  of  chang- 
ing the  Mahometan  law  so  as  to  have  the  succession  in 
their  own  family,  and  especially  in  that  of  the  eldest  son, 
was  a  happy  thought,  and  was  at  the  same  time  pleasing  to 
the  Khedive,  who  no  doubt  felt  an  ambition  one  day  to  be 
a  king.  \^  a  matter  of  course  he  fell  into  ihe  trap, 
thought  grciit  deference  was  being  paid  him.  and  became  a 
party  to  the  scheme.  There  were  other  privileges  granted, 
but  the  jewel  in  the  casket  was  a  short,  pregnant  para- 
graph, of  little  apparent  importance  al  that  time,  but  in- 
tended, if  circumstances  required  it,  for  deadly  use  in  the 
future  to  subserve  the  plans  of  the  bondholders.  This 
embodied  the  power  to  make  "  conventions  for  all  relations 
which  concerned  foreigners,  whenever  the  Khedive  may 
think  it  ncccsaar)'."'  When  the  announcement  was  made 
that  ihe  succession  had  been  changed,  the  Khedive  was 
delighted  to  receive  congratulations  upon  the  auspicious 
event,  and  few  who  visited  him  suspected  at  the  time  how 


VBSTHHOW  OF  ISMAIL. 


soon  ttic  finnan  was  destined  to  turn  into  a  curse  that 
should  cat  into  his  very  heart.  I  confer  to  having  been 
innocent  of  it  when  seeing  his  radiant  smile,  as  he  touched 
hia  head  and  heart  with  the  document  in  his  hand,  accord- 
ing to  Mahometan  fasliion,  and  kissed  it  as  a  dutiful  vassal 
should.  Tlii^i  now  famous  backshee:sh,  it  will  be  eventually 
secn,  bound  him  hand  and  foot,  and  enabled  the  bondhold- 
ers at  the  proper  time  to  place  foreign  dictators  over  him.i 
These  so  shaped  their  administrative  policy  as  to  compel^ 
his  abdication  when  it  suited  their  purpose.  Nor  were  the 
bondholder  alone  in  this  scheme.  It  was  part  of  the 
policy  of  that  wonderful  man  who  then  directed  the  des* 
tinics  of  England,  and  who  never  for  an  instant  tost  sight 
of  a  secure  route  to  the  Indies.  These  happy  events  threw 
temporary  brilliancy  around  the  Khedive's  throne  at  the 
very  moment  when  Fate  was  ironically  pointing  her  re- 
morseless finger  at  his  empty  treasury. 

His  many  creditors  at  home  and  abroad  beset  the  Khe- 
dive with  complaints  of  the  maladministration  of  Sadik,  his 
minister,  while  the  newspapers  were  filled  with  figures  to 
prove  their  statements.  They  urged  an  investigation 
which  should  lead  to  reform  and  lessen  the  ruinous  interest] 
which  was  eating  up  the  revenues  of  the  country.  Upon 
the  advice  of  the  English  consul,  Ismail  invited  Mr.  Cave, 
a  distinguished  English  official,  to  come  to  Egypt  for  the 
puqiose  of  making  such  an  investigation.  The  Khedive 
was  no  doubt  sincere  in  this  request,  being  anxious  tliat 
Europe  should  know  the  real  condition  of  his  finances  and 
his  resources,  so  that  public  opinion  should  force  a  refund- 
ing of  the  debt  at  a  lower  rate  of  interest.  Mr.  Cave  found 
Egyptian  finances  a  tangled  web.  Though  deceived,  as  he 
thought,  by  Sadik  Pacha,  the  Egyptian  minister,  yet  he 
discovered  enough  to  satisfy  himself  that  worse  than  cor. 
rupt  practices  were  rife.  There  is  no  evidence  to  connect 
the  Khedive  with  the  false  returns  and  other  frauds  discov- 
ered by  Mr.  Cave.     Of  these  he  was  nccessaiily  ignorant. 


TUB  OVBRTHKOW  Of  ISMAIL. 


161} 


Otherwise  he  would  never  have  iet  sn  Englishman  of  known 
ability  and  character  investigate  frauds  so  palpable,  of 
^which  any  sanction  on  his  part  would  justly  consign  him  to 
eternal  infamy.  The  mission  ended  without  probing  to  the 
bottom  the  dark  ways  of  the  Mof^lish  (Sadik  Tacha). 
They  were  too  hidden  for  honest  invcatigation  to  unearth, 
and  Mr.  Cave  departed  without  having  reached  any  definite 
conclusion  in  the  premises.  Enough  was,  however,  learned 
by  the  Khedive  to  satisfy  him  that  his  trusted  minister  was 
administering  his  office  badly,  and  that  there  was,  to  say 
the  Ic.tst,  (rightful  disorder  and  confusion  in  his  finance  de- 
partment. But  Sadik  was  his  life-long  friend,  and  Ismail 
wished  to  move  cautiously.  No  doubt  Mr,  Cave  did  all  in 
his  power  to  unravel  the  mystery,  and  did  much  toward 
clearing  up  the  facts  ;  but  if  he  had  shown  mure  regard  for 
Egypt  and  recommended  the  reduction  of  the  interest, 
when  he  became  aware  that  its  payment  was  crushing  out 
the  life  of  the  country,  he  would  have  had  the  gratitude  of 
all  Egypt.  In  his  report  he  gives  the  following  facts  : 
"  That  there  was  $90,ocx>,ooo  floating  debt  incurred  in 
paying  interest,  which  was  being  renewed  at  the  ruinous 
rate  of  25  per  cent  per  annum  ;  that  the  great  loan  of  1873, 
at  the  time  the  Sultan  was  bribed,  swallowed  up  every 
resource,  so  that  three  years'  taxes  were  paid  in  two  ;  that 
there  was  nothing  to  show  for  all  the  indebtedness  which, 
while  paying  an  interest  of  from  is  to  36  per  cent  per 
annum,  w-os  eating  up  70  per  cent  per  annum  of  the  gross 
proceeds  of  the  revenue."  Poor  Egypt  was  in  the  grasp  of 
the  Shylocks  of  England  and  France.  But  when  great 
nations  were  controlled  by  the  money  power,  how  could  it 
be  c.Npcctcd  that  individuals  should  do  justice?  That  he 
(the  Khedive)  should  be  pressed  beyond  endurance  was  a 
natural  consequence.  How  could  it  be  otherwise,  when 
compelled  to  pay,  according  to  Mr.  Cave,  "  an  annual  in- 
terest of  $25,500,000  out  of  a  revenue  of  ^5,500,000"  ? 
Like  all  Eastern  monarchs,  ready  for  anything  to  relieve 


i;o 


THE  oyp.STHHOW  OF  ISMAtL. 


the  present,  the  Khedive  adopted  a  .scheme  in  1872,  which 
undoubtedly  origin»ted  in  the  prolific  brain  of  the  Mofitish 
(Saditc  Pacha),  and  wan  called  the  Moukabala.  In  this 
"  the  landowner  was  allowed  to  redeem  forever  one  half  of 
his  rent  at  once,  or  by  certain  instalments."  I  recollect  the 
(ccling  of  uncertainty  and  foreboding  which  filled  the  minds 
of  all  classes  when  this  thinly  di^uiscd  attempt  at  robbcrj- 
was  first  adopted.  It  reUccted  seriously  upon  both  Ismail 
and  Sadik.  Knowing  the  metho<l»  of  the  minister,  the  poor 
fellah,  though  he  dreaded  the  result,  was  bound  to  avail 
himself  of  it.  He  iivjis  impotent,  and  so  accepted  it  with- 
out a  muniiur.  Fearing  the  demand  of  the  creditors,  the 
minister  thought  it  a  good  Eastern  expedient  for  temporary 
relief.  No  doubt  he  expected  it  would  be  an  easy  matter 
in  the  future,  when  pressure  came,  to  repudiate  the  con- 
tract as  a  public  necessity  and  levy  new  taxes.  Though  he 
did  not  live  to  witness  the  fruition  of  his  infamous  design, 
the  bondholders  connived  at  its  consummation  in  order  to 
reap  the  benefit.  They  are  responsible,  if  not  for  its  pro- 
posal, at  least  for  its  iniquitous  result.  Temporary  expedi- 
ents {.iiling,  there  being  no  prospect  of  the  payment  of 
interest  a»  it  became  due,  and  clamor  following  the  Khedive 
even  into  his  palace,  it  was  proposed  that  another  embassy 
of  his  ardent  friends  "  who  would  hold  the  balance  evenly 
adjusted,"  should  come  to  Egypt  at  his  invitation.  This 
was  the  advice  of  the  official  who  in  private  had  gently 
hinted  its  necessity,  the  English  Consul-General. 

In  response  to  the  invitation,  "  the  devoted  friends  of  the 
Khedive,"  Mr.  Goschen,  M.P.,  and  Monsieur  Joubert,  a 
Frenchman  and  a  distinguished  financier,  both  agents  of  the 
bondholders,  arrived  at  Cairo  in  October,  1876.  Up  to  this 
time  newspaper  correspondents  and  book-writers  had 
lauded  the  Khedive  and  severely  criticised  the  speculators 
who  had  inveigled  him  into  their  grasp,  and  whose  exac- 
tions were  mercilessly  plundering  the  unfortunate  felhih. 
It  was  well  known  that  not  more  than  half  the  amount  rep- 


I 


THE  OVERTIfROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


•71 


resented  by  the  loans  was  ever  received  by  Egypt,  while 
they  were  exacting  interest  upon  the  whole  amount  named. 
All  the  money  of  the  Khedive  was  gone  ;  the  bottom  of 
the  caisflc  had  dropped  out,  and  he  had  not  a  dollar  to  pay 
even  his  private  debts.  The  consequence  was  that  his 
friends  deserted  him,  and  an  indignant  cry  was  heard  from 
a  disinterested  press.  This  had  its  effect,  and  though  the 
unfortunate  Khedive  was  doing  his  best  to  meet  hi^  engage- 
ments, he  was  denounced  as  a  fraudulent  borrower  and  a 
monster,  while  pathetic  appeals  besieged  the  governments 
of  England  and  France  to  come  to  the  rescue  of  the  poor 
ill-used  creditors  of  Egypt.  These  agents  (Goschen  and 
Joubert)  had  no  sooner  entered  upon  the  theatre  of  action 
than  they  commenced  with  the  Khedive  a  system  of  exac- 
tion. One  of  the  first  demands  of  Mr.  Goschen  was  the 
dismissal  of  the  Egyptian  minister  of  finance,  who  had 
shown  a  decided  opposition  to  the  new  arrangement,  and 
with  whom  the  Englishman  had  from  the  first  declined  all 
intcrcourM;.  The  statement  given  to  the  public  at  the  time 
was  that  the  Khedive  refused  to  accede  to  the  demand,  and 
stated  as  a  reason  that  Sadik  was  the  wealthiest  subject  in 
Egypt,  was  trusted  by  the  religious  clement,  and  conse- 
quently had  a  hold  upon  the  masses  ;  that  he  also  possessed 
all  the  secrets  of  Ismail's  personal  and  ofHcial  life,  and  was 
capable  of  doing  serious  damage  to  the  state  ;  that  he 
could,  if  turned  loose  upon  the  people,  destroy  him  and  his 
dynasty.  But  his  financial  advisers  were  inexorable  ;  they 
<ared  nothing  for  him  or  his  dynasty.  The  Khedive, 
though  distressed,  felt  that  a  great  necessity  was  upon  him. 
He  waited  until  his  plans  were  ripe.  Meanwhile  the 
Mof^tish  was  tried  by  a  secret  council  for  conspiracy 
against  the  Khedive,  and  condemned  to  perpetual  exile  in 
Upper  Africa.  This  simply  meant  certain  death.  The 
minister  was  to  all  appearance  ignorant  of  his  fate.  The 
Khedive  invited  him  out  to  drive — a  not  unusual  thing.  At 
a  place  near  the  Nile  where  his  carriage  stopped,  a  guard. 


IJ« 


TRK  OVEKTHROiV  OF  ISMAIL. 


polled  for  the  purpose,  seized  the  Mof^tish  before  he  could 
alight.  Since  that  time  no  human  being  connected  with  him 
has  ever  seen  him,  and  though  a  steamer  was  sent  up  the  river 
on  the  next  day,  with  all  the  forms  of  having  a  state  prisoner 
on  board,  there  was  no  one  in  Cairo  at  the  timc'of  this 
affair  who  docs  not  believe  that  the  deposed  minister  was 
consigned  to  the  bottom  of  the  Nile.  It  Ls  said  that  his 
chief  eunuch  and  clerk  shared  the  same  fate.  His  vast 
property  was  seized  by  the  government,  his  son  torn  from 
his  wife,  formerly  an  inmate  of  the  palace,  and  the  great 
numbers  of  women  in  \\\9-  harem  were  scattered  no  one 
knows  whither.  His  intimates  and  relations  were  all  dis- 
missed from  ofRce.  Thus,  as  it  always  is  in  the  East  in 
such  cases,  the  minister  and  all  connected  with  him  wcra 
disponed  of  by  short  mclhod-i. 

This  troublesome  official  "^lenced,"  Mr,  Goschen  at 
once  presented  his  financial  scheme.  This  was  that  two 
comptrollers,  a  Frenchman  and  an  Englishman,  together 
with  commissioners,  should  beappointed;  that  there  should 
be  an  AngIo>French  railway  administration,  and  that  the 
revenue  of  the  port  of  Alexandria  must  be  pledged  to  the 
bondholders.  All  other  sources  of  revenue  were  already  In 
the  hands  of  Englishmen.  It  was  at  this  time  that  the 
cheating  the  landholders  out  of  their  money  paid  into  the 
treasury  under  the  Moukabala  was  mooted  again,  and  the 
people  were  greatly  excited,  as  they  fully  expected  the 
calamity  in  the  near  future  ;  but  (or  the  moment  it  was 
passed  over  ;  the  bondholders  were  not  quite  ready  to 
commit  the  infamous  outrage,  the  bastinado  had  not  yet 
tutored  the  beasts  of  burden  to  accept  it  peacefully. 

The  new  foreign  ofHcials  were  no  sooner  in  power  than 
they  ignored  the  Khedive,  who,  feeling  himself  thwarted 
in  his  own  government,  and  believing  that  the  bondholders' 
interests  were  alone  cared  for,  became  restless.  It  will  be 
recollected  that  the  Khedive  had  created  an  international 
court,  and  had  even  given  largely  of  his  private  fortune  to 


THE  OVKflTllROW  OF  t&MAIL. 


173 


I 


sustain  it.  Little  did  he  dream  that  this  was  another  trap 
set  by  his  unscrupulous  enemies.  Unacquainted  with 
Western  law,  trusting  to  the  good  faith  of  Curope,  he 
approved  of  a  clause  which  %-iTtuaIly  deprived  him  of  a 
sovereign  right,  that  of  exemption  from  legal  process. 

Egypt  saw  her  Khedive  powerless  to  prevent  levj*  cither 
on  the  state  property  or  on  his  own,  even  to  the  carriage  in 
which  he  rode.  The  people  of  Cairo  were  shocked  when 
they  saw  this  comedy  played  by  the  high  contracting 
parties.  Judgments  without  number  were  entered  against 
Ismail. 

The  growing  arrogance  of  the  foreign  ministers  imjiosed 

on  the  country  provoked  the  discontent  of  the  masses.     A« 

soon  as  it  became  evident  that  Egypt  was  to  be  the  prey  of 

England,  an  army  of  office- peeking  vultures  from  every  land 

where  .she  holds  sway  descended  upon  the  prostrate  victim 

H   to  fatten  at  their  leisure  on  her  vitals.     France  supplied 

"    but   few  of   these   birds    of   prey.     Those   in   power   had 

already  voted  themselves  $25,000  and  $30,000  salaries  ;  the 

native  clerks  were  cashiered,  penniless,  with  their  salaries 

H  in  arrears.     To  make  this  outrage  still  more  patent,  care 

^P  was  taken   by  the  comptrollers  and   the  commissioners  to 

pay  themselves  and  their  foreign  friends  every  cent  of  their 

enormous  salaries.     To  add  still  more  to  this  extraordinary 

state  of  things,  the  army  received  no  pay.     Their  pay  too 

•  was  in  arrears.  Officers  were  in  rags,  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren clamoring  for  bread.  The  fellah  groaned  as  he  paid 
khis  last  piastre  for  taxes,  and  all  means  were  exhausted  to 
wring  more  out  of  him.  The  burdens  of  the  agricultural 
class  were  so  apparent  that  the  Eajitcrn  man.  accustomed 
to  scenes  of  cruelty,  stood  aghast  at  the  human  miser)-  to 
B  which  the  unfortunate  Arab  was  subjected.  Being  satisfied 
^  that  his  people  were  at  the  end  of  their  tether  (this  was  in 

C),  and  feeling  a  strong  desire  to  ameliorate  their  condi* 
Ismail  was  prevented  from  giving  his  undivided  atten- 
by  an  unfortunate  event.     He  was  suddenly  involved 


•74 


TH&  OVERTHROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


in  a  war  with  his  neighbors,  the  Abysainians.     His  motive 
and  reasons  for  entering  into  it.  together  with  the  incidents 
connected  with  this  war,  will  be  set  forth  in  a  later  chapter 
of  this  narrative.     The  war  is  mentioned  now  as  adding  fl 
still  more  to  his  financial  troubles.      The  writer  of  this 
work,  together  with  many  Americans  in  the  Egyptian  scr- 
\^ce,  being  victims  of  this  non-payment  policy,  can  feelingly 
appreciate  the  complaints  of  the  people.     Now,  if  all  these 
deep-laid  schemcsto  bind  the  Khedive  with  invisible  threads 
had  resulted  merely  in  wrong  to  the  individual,  it  would 
not  awaken  such  deep  indignation,  though  it  might  be  con- 
demned as  a  cruel  visitation  on  an   Eastern  potentate  who 
had  struggled   hard  to  elevate  his  people.     The  motive  of 
all  this  chicanery  was  that  the  creditors  of  Egj-pt  might  get 
squarely  at  the  nalcetl  backs  o(  the  fellaheen,  the  better  to 
wring  the  last  piastre  from   them,  and  to  make  them   pay 
into  the  foreigners'  pockets  all  their  hard  earnings,  even  at 
the  risk  of  starvation.     This    constitutes  a  crime  againjit 
humanity  which  no  words  can  properly  stigmatize.     This 
new   conspiracy    failed.     When    the    prisoner  of  the   Co- 
manche  Indian  is  so  jaded  that  he  can  no  longer  walk  he  ^ 
is  pierced  with  a  lance  :  so  was  the  despairing  Khedive  | 
pricked  by  his  usurping  masters.     The  English  and  French 
governments    entered    the     arena    and    urged    upon    the 
Khedive  an  international  commission  of  six  foreigners  and 
the  four  officials,  all  in  the  interests  of  the  bondholders,  and  fl 
in  which  no  natives  were  allowed  a  voice.     Ismail  Pacha,  of  " 
late  so  often  humiliated,  felt  that  he  had  put  forth  all  his 
power  to  stay  the  encroachments  upon  his  rights  and  to  fl 
protect  those  of  his  people.     Though  he  knew  at  this  time 
that  his  act  must  lead  to  serious  consequences  if  not  to  his 
abdication,  yet  he  signed  a  decree  for  a  commission  armed 
with  full  powers,  not  only  to  Inquire  into  the  revenue-*  and   m 
expenditures,  but  also  into  all  other  important  questions  in   I 
which  Egypt  was  interested.     He  simply  requested  that  his 
sovereign  rights  should  be  guaranteed.     This  request  being 


THE  OVF.ftTllKOW  OF  ISMAIL. 


"75 


refusrd,  lie  abandoned  that  also.  Tlie  conclusion  was  a 
radical  change  in  the  government.  There  was  no  doubt 
that  great  numbers  of  evils  resulting  from  the  bad  adminis- 
tration of  laws,  the  unjust  levying  of  taxes,  and  other  out- 
rages, were  abated.  Safeguards  were  thrown  around  the 
people,  and  a  proper  financial  administration  was  aimed  at 
if  not  secured,  and,  finally,    a   responsible   ministry,   with 

^Nuba^  I'acha  as  premier,  was  appointed.  This  virtually 
put  the  government  completely  in  the  power  of  the  new 
ministry.  In  fact,  a  constitutional  government  was  organ- 
incd,  and  every  principle  of  governmenl  established  by 
Mchcmct  All  came  to  an  end.  The  lands  of  the  Khedive 
and  his  family,  amounting  in  all  to  about  one  million  acres, 
j»erc  forced  from  him  by  the  same  process  as  in  other  in- 
stances, and  were  given  in  absolute  title  to  the  government. 
The  last  of  the  land  taken  was  the  private  property  of  the 
Khedive,  and  was  at  once  mortgaged  to  the  Rothschilds  for 
842,500,000.  It  was  thought  that  this  enormous  sum  would 
go  far  to  pay  the  debts  of  Egypt,  but  it  was  at  once 
absorbed  by  the  bondholders  and  the  swarm  of  foreign 
officials,  only  a  part  of  it  going  to  pay  the  floating  debt.  A 
recent  writer,  quoting  from  the  information  funiished  the 
British  Parliament,  makes  the  extraordinar>-  statement  that 
up  to  this  time  there  was  the  prodigious  number  of  1325 
imported  odicc-holdcrs,  receiving  salaries  aggregating 
$1 ,665.000.  This  was  progress  with  a  vengeance  !  When  it 
is  considered  that  all  this  horde  replaced  the  poor  Arab  and 
Copt,  who  did  the  duty  better  for  a  sm.all  sum.  it  was  not 
surprising  that  the  latter  should  add  their  voices  to  that  of 
the  army,  who  had  thirty  months'  pay  in  arrcar  and  had 
already  become  destitute  ;  that  they  should  all  join  in  sup- 
porting the  Notables,  who  were  protesting  against  misrule, 
and  that  theyshould  finally  crystallize  into  a  National  party 
with  their  best  men  as  leaders.  The  people  understood 
that  while  the  work  of  the  commissioner  who  pretended  to 
represent  Egypt  looked  very  well  on  paper,  yet  ihcy  were 


176 


TltE  OVBRTHROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


still  beasts  of  burden,  while  the  hundred  thousand  foreigners 
living  in  Egj'pt.  accumulating  fortunes  there,  were  not 
taxed  a  cent  for  revenue.  Improved  laws  might  be  a  good 
thing,  but  when  administered  solely  in  the  interests  of 
those  who  had  seiKcd  their  country,  they  did  not  feel  an 
abiding  faith  in  them.  The  new  ministry  was  in  hostility 
to  the  Khedive,  and  disliked  him.  It  had  really  begun  to 
crumble  at  its  inception.  At  this  crisis  the  agent  of  Eng> 
land  appeared  again  as  a  prominent  actor  on  the  theatre  of 
events,  sounding  a  note  of  blame  for  the  acts  of  the  minis- 
try, which  hel{ad  been  instrumental  in  forcing  upon  Ismail, 
in  such  terms  as  to  touch  the  ainour  proprt  of  the  Khedive, 
who,  plucking  tip  cownige,  ventured  to  express  his  indigna- 
tion. The  published  account  of  his  reply  is  given  in  his 
own  language,  which  will  show  the  bent  of  his  mind.  He 
expressed  regret  that  the  British  Government  should  use 
such  language  toward  him.  Moreover,  the  responsibility 
they  sought  to  cast  upon  him  for  the  successful  result  of 
the  new  order  of  things,  and  for  the  due  entiy  of  the  taxes, 
was  neither  logical  nor  just,  and  he  must  entirely  disclaim  it. 
What  was  his  present  position  in  Egypt  ?  He  had  surren- 
dered his  personal  property  and  his  personal  power,  and 
deliberately  accepted  the  position  of  a  constitutional 
prince.  A  responsible  ministry  had  been  formed  to  advise 
him,  and  if  he  rightly  understood  the  first  principles  of  con- 
stitutional government,  it  wax  that  the  ministry,  and  not 
the  chief  of  state,  was  made  responsible  under  such  circum- 
stances ;  while  as  to  the  entry  of  the  taxes,  he  had  no  con- 
trol or  power  over  it,  and  therefore  could  not  in  any  way  be 
held  responsible  for  it.  He  must  decline  to  meddle  with 
the  proper  functions  of  his  ministers  ;  his  advice  or  opinion 
was  entirely  at  their  disposition  if  they  asked  it.  but  he 
could  not  thrust  it  upon  them.  Although  he  quite  under- 
stood th.it  he  was  the  person  principally  interested  in  the 
working  of  the  new  scheme,  he  could  not  interfere  with  the 
attributes  of  his  ministers  ;  and  if  they  were  not  answerable 


THB  OVEKTUKOW  OF  ISMAIL. 


m 


(or  their  own  acts,  what  was  the  meaning  of  a  responsible 
ministry?  Responsibility  could  only  attach  to  him  if  he 
attempted  to  interfere  improperly  with  the  government  of 
the  country  ;  otherwise  he  must  entirely  disclaim  it. 

Notwithstanding  the  move  made  by  the  British  agent  in 
tying  tfic  hands  of  the  Khedive,  in  making  him  only  the 
nominal  ruler,  in  disposing  of  the  government  to  suit  only 
partial  interests  and  then  threatening  him  when  he  was  !»!• 
potent,  the  status  quo  became  the  laughing-stock  of  all 
Egypt,  except  to  the  ofticiala  and  the  army  who  were  starv- 
ing, and  whose  wives  and  children  were  beting  for  bread. 
It  is  not  then  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  officers  of  the 
army,  worked  up  to  frenzy,  should  have  marched  in  a  body, 
in  the  February  following,  and  driven  the  ministry  of 
Nubar  I'acha  from  power  amid  scenes  of  violence. 

Being  in  Cairo  at  this  time,  I  hastened  to  the  theatre  of 
events,  and  therefore  I  know  that  as  soon  as  the  Khedive 
became  aware  that  the  ministers  were  bearded  and  some  of 
them  held  as  prisoners,  he  resolutely  intiTfered,  in  spite  of 
the  murmuring  of  the  infuriated  soldiery  and  at  his  own 
personal  peril,  and  quieted  the  hneuie.  No  man  in  Egypt 
thought  he  foresaw  the  event — not  even  the  agents  of  the 
bondholders,  who  had  always  been  sharp  to  find  fault  on 
the  slightest  excuse,  and  to  throw  respon.sibility  upon  him 
whenever  it  was  possible  to  embroil  him  with  the  European 
governments.  After  the  discomfiture  of  the  ministry  the 
people  began  the  cry  of  hostility  to  the  Christians,  thinking 
that  they  were  about  to  be  transferred  to  the  control  of  the 
Europeans.  The  alarm  too  was  .toundcd  that  the  foreigners 
were  going  to  nullify  the  law  of  the  "  Mukabala,"  which 
would  take  from  them  nearly  half  of  their  possessions  and 
beggar  hundreds  already  struggling  for  existence.  The 
whole  population  of  Egj-pt,  more  or  less  interested,  were 
intensely  alarmed,  and  to  increase  the  excitement  targe 
numbers  under  a  new  law  were  added  to  the  list  for  forced 
labor  known  as  the  odious  corvee  system.     The  object  of 


178 


THE  OPERTIIROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


this  was  not  so  much  to  compel  the  people  to  work  for  ' 
public  good  as  to  force  them  to  p.iy  cash  to  save  them  from 
working.  This  blackmailing,  it  was  hoped,  would  pay  a 
lai^er  amount  into  the  treasury  for  the  benefit  of  the  bond- 
holders. Had  there  been  any  mcicy  shown  to  the  people, 
this  wretched  system  of  extortion  might  have  pleaded  some 
extenuation,  but  everything  was  coldly  calculated  in  the 
interest  of  the  foieigner.  The  foreign  masters  of  Egypt 
next  procured  an  order  from  the  English  ministry  to  still 
further  cripple  the  monarch  by  forcing  him  to  abandon  his 
own  cabinet  and  abdicate  his  royal  prerogative  in  favor  of 
two  foreigners  sitting  in  the  cabinet,  who  should  have 
power  to  veto  any  measure  they  chose.  Well  might  the 
wily  oflicial  exclaim,  on  the  success  of  the  policy  which  had 
led  the  Eastern  monarch  to  his  ruin,  that  "  the  commission 
have  achieved  extraordinar>'  results  in  the  short  time  they 
have  been  here — results  such  as  a  year  ago  it  would  have 
seetned  absurd  to  expect."  Tlie  humiliation  of  the 
Khedive  was  effected  under  the  article  already  referred  to, 
and  for  which  the  Sublime  Porte  had  pocketed  the  cnor> 
mous  "  backsheesh"  which  so  softened  the  generous  heart 
of  the  Sultan.  By  this  act  was  created  that  oligarchy 
of  carpet-baggers,  a  veritable  dictatorial  government  of 
foreigners,  reducing  Ismail  to  a  nonentity,  without  wealth 
or  power.  All  that  was  left  was  the  sympathy  and  latent 
strength  of  the  people.  Events  thickened,  and  new  .sur- 
prises were  daily  expected  ;  the  old  land  of  the  Arabian 
Kights  had  at  last  awakened  from  its  dream  of  a  thousand 
ytAn,  Had  Al  Rhond  Raschid  suddenly  appeared  upon 
the  scene,  he  could  not  have  been  more  amazed  than  the 
people  of  Mas'r  (Cairo)  were  when  the  slieiks  and  men  of 
position  and  wealth,  ordinarily  the  most  silent  and  pliant 
instruments  of  power  of  all  the  Eastern  people,  stood  forth 
as  champions  of  a  new  national  policy,  and,  a  thing  never 
meditated  before  in  their  dreams,  actually  assembled  in  a 
public  meeting,  while  a  larger  body  of  these  people  were 


THE  OVKRTIlitOW   Of  ISMAU- 


•79 


besieging  the  Khedive  and  his  ministry  with  a  petition  for  a 
redress  of  grievances. 

In  this  demonstration  the  discontent  had  assumed  such 
proportions  as  to  create  serious  alarm.  The  Khedive 
wisely  warned  the  consul,  who  had  been  so  considerate  to 
him,  of  impending  complications,  telling  him  \\\v\  the 
malad ministration  of  those  who  had  assumed  authority  was 
bringing  about  serious  consequences  ;  that  urgent  steps 
should  be  taken  to  allay  the  excitement  constantly  increas- 
ing among  the  entire  people.  Instead  of  listening  to  the 
appeals  for  justice  from  the  country  and  offering  some 
remedy,  the  same  miser}',  so  often  detailed,  was  allowed  to 
continue.  While  those  in  possession  did  not  hesitate  to  treat 
with  contempt  all  other  creditors,  many  of  them  foieigners. 
tlic  people  of  Egypt  were  not  considered  as  worthy  of  the 
slightest  notice.  To  allay  the  excitement  and  to  prevent  a 
revolution,  which  was  certainly  impending,  the  Khedive 
was  forced  to  dismiss  the  two  foreigners  from  his  cabinet 
and  form  a  new  ministry,  with  Cherif  Facha  at  its  head,  an 
old,  tried  minister  of  acknowledged  ability,  in  whom  the 
people,  both  foreign  and  native,  had  implicit  confldencc. 
The  universal  sentiment  was  that  this  act  was  wise  and 
patriotic  ;  if  there  were  no  other  reason,  it  had  caused  the 
removal  of  the  two  foreigners  from  unlimited  power  with- 
out any  control — men  who  had  no  interests  in  the  country, 
who  were  ignorant  of  the  people  and  their  language,  who 
held  the  highest  and  most  important  places  with  little 
knowledge  of  the  government,  who  never  looked  beyond 
the  financial  interests  of  their  oppressors,  and  who  deluged 
the  country-  with  incompetent  foreigners  to  hold  the  offices 
their  own  people  were  more  competent  to  fill,  and  to  which 
they  had  an  inherent  right  of  preference.  How  could 
Ismail's  action  be  received  othcnvise  than  with  great  rejoic- 
ing? No  sooner  had  this  well-timed  assumption  of 
authority  been  effected  than  tumult  ceased  and  quiet 
reigned.     The  moneyed  oligarchy  and  their  fattened  .igents, 


I  So 


THE  OVSRTHkOW  OP  JSMAIJ- 


I 


I 


the  latter  concerned  about  their  salaries,  feeling  that 
earthquake  was  beneath  them,  thought  by  a  bold  stroke  to' 
rid  themselves  of  the  Khedive  and  stifle  the  popular  feel 
Ing.  The  writer  of  this  publiaJicd  the  statement  at  th 
time  that  this  act  would  inevitably  bring  grief  to  Cg>'pt. 
England  and  France  were  not  thinking,  however,  of  so 
bloody  a  tragedy.  He  knew  that  Ismail  was  the  only  one  in 
his  family  who  had  the  will  and  the  power  to  rule  the  destin/ 
of  Egypt  in  the  crisis  which  beset  her.  Unfortunately,  the 
prediction  has  been  verified.  The  agents  of  the  moneyed 
interests,  having  once  held  the  reins  of  government  andfl 
tasted  the  sweets  of  unlimited  power,  were  like  a  horde  of 
wild  bcasLs  which  had  once  lapped  human  blood.  They 
would  not  hesitate  to  gratify  their  thirst  for  it  again,  at  any 
ircnturc,  however  desperate,  even  to  the  destruction  of  the 
victim.  His  enemies,  well  knowing  that  only  through 
another  could  they  ever  hope  for  success,  decided  upon  the 
sacrifice  of  the  Khedive,  Ismail  Pacha.  To  smooth  their 
way  to  coveted  power,  having  no  right  cither  legal  or  moral 
to  a  further  lease  of  authority,  they  circulated  questionable 
statements  of  universal  discontent  caused  by  cruel  treat- 
ment of  the  fellaheen.  This  talk  was  thundered  through 
Out  Europe,  and  the  crj'  of  vengeance  in  the  press  was 
heard.  It  acted  like  a  charm,  and  it  was  evident  that  the 
fruit  was  ripe  for  the  picking.  All  due  precautions  being 
arranged  beforehand,  they  formally  requested  Ismail  to 
abdicate  in  favor  of  his  son  Tcwfik,  taking  care  to  couple  the 
demand  with  a  sop — the  offer  of  a.  liberal  civil  list.  Not  yet 
sufficiently  tutored,  he  indignantly  declined  their  interested 
proposition.  Ready  with  their  bolt,  they  threatened  to 
place  his  uncle  Halim,  a  deadly  enemy  to  bis  own  family, 
on  the  throne,  and  thus  deprive  his  immediate  line  of  thefl 
succession,  for  which  he  had  paid  so  large  a  sum  to  the 
Sultan.  In  the  mean  time  they  had  appealed  to  the  Sub- 
lime Porte  to  depose  him  in  favor  of  his  son  Tewfik.  Now 
that  Ismail  had  no  caisu,  the  Sultan  promptly  obeyed  the 


THE  OVBHTUROW  OF  ISM  A I t- 


i8i 


summons,  stimulated  probably  by  a  gentle  reminder,  as  they 
do  nothing  in  the  East  without  pay.  As  the  fellah  would  be 
soon  called  upon  to  reimburse  the  baksheesh,  what  difTer- 
ence  did  it  make?  With  a  (cw  cxcc-ptions,  all  Europe 
joined  in  the  funeral  procession.  It  being  too  late  to  resist, 
and  his  cause  now  being  hopeless,  the  Khedive  allowed 
himself  to  be  decently  set  aside.  The  result  was  swift  and 
certain.  In  a  short  time  he  found  himself  safely  ensconced 
in  the  Italian  palace  La  Favorita  on  the  bay  of  Naples, 
and,  so  far  as  Egypt  t.t  concerned,  as  dead  as  one  of  her 
mummied  Pharaohs. 

Notwithstanding  his  bad  mana^^emcnt,  the  dethronement 
of  Ismail  by  the  great  powers,  including  Mr.  Gladstone's 
■'  excrescence"  (the  Sultan),  raised  him  to  the  dignity  of  a 
martyr  in  the  eyes  of  the  mas:>cs  of  Egypt.  They  believed 
he  was  sacrificed  in  protecting  them  from  the  bondholders' 
exactions.  In  these  latter  they  simply  saw  new  masters, 
whose  desire  was  not  only  to  get  their  hard  earnings  to  pay 
a  debt  which  they  believed  had  been  saddled  on  them  by 
fraud  and  corruption,  but  to  take  their  country  and  to  en- 
danger their  religion. 

In  estimating  the  character  of  the  Khedive  it  is  unjust  to 
judge  him  wholly  according  to  Western  ideas.  The  modes 
of  reasoning  of  the  Eastern  man  upon  principles  of  right 
and  wrong  arc  radically  different  from  those  of  his  Western 
brother,  and  should  be  studied  from  the  point  of  view  that 
custom  anil  habit  have  sanctioned.  Ismail  was  brought  up 
in  a  moral  atmosphere  where  religion  teaches  it  as  a  holy 
duty,  under  certain  circumstances,  to  lie  to  a  Christian — 
among  a  people  whose  pride  of  race,  however  ignorant  and 
superstitious  they  may  be,  is  so  immense  that  the  mcaiest 
be^ar  really  believes  himself  superior  to  the  most  refin  1 
civilized  man  ;  where  the  true  believer  is  possessed  with 
the  idea  that  modern  science  and  improvement  arc  but  thi' 
devices  of  the  infidel  instigated  by  the  devil.  Sincere  in 
all  their  professions,  their  will  chained  by  the  rhapsodies  of 


i8s 


THE  OVERTHROW  OF  ISMAIL. 


the  Prophet,  how  can  it  be  otherwise  than  that  they  should 
regulate  their  conduct  in  the  affairs  of  life  by  a  dtffcrcflfl 
code  of  morals?  The  Khedive  for  many  years  brol^ 
through  the  trammeb  that  environed  him,  and  was  in  the 
midst  of  successful  reform,  never  hesitating  to  strike  down 
superstitions  when  they  stood  in  his  way,  and  only  when 
(ate  decreed  against  him  did  he  fall.  There  is  no  more 
striking  illustration  of  the  difficulty  he  encountered  than 
the  fact  that  the  greatest  opposition  he  met  with  in  his 
efforts  to  establish  education  and  lilieral  government  was 
from  the  very  people  who  were  to  be  benefited  so  largely 
by  his  schemes. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

MAHMOUI)  TEWriK  PACHA. 

Ca/eful  (ralnlBg  of  TewAh  by  Umall  -Manoj{«my  enforced  on  hiro — Thor- 
flugh  cducmiDn— OriiEinatly  not  dcilincd  for  ib«  throne— Tewfik'i  p«r> 
tonoiily— Great  diJSculiie*  allcTiding  TewBk's  oeccul on— Smouldering 
state  of  Ibc  Arab  ogunit  toteiga  rule— Inctdentt  which  complicated 
Egyptian  nflalis  — Rapacily  and  exactions  of  the  European  compttolLen 
—The  pcuant  robbed  of  his  land—"  Killing  the  goose  that  laid  the 
golden  egg"— "  The  Egypllun  Commisiioo"  conttrued  to  be  Interna- 
tional by  England  and  France — The  last  itraw  nhlch  broke  the  cMnel'a 
back. 

Mahmoud  Tewfik  Paciia.  the  eldest  son  of  Ismail,  cx- 
Khedive.  was  born  of  an  Ikbal  (favorite),  in  the  palace  of 

rOne  of  his  queens.  His  queeas  being  surroundt:cl  by  young 
and  pretty  women,  it  often  happened  that  the  mother  of 
his  children  was  from  among  the  latter.  His  eldest  three 
sons  were  thus  bom.  The  law  of  ihu  Prophet  makes  all 
those  born  in  the  seclusion  of  the  harem  legitimate.  Under 
the  powerful  influence  of  his  second  queen,  who  was  verj- 
beautiful,  he  determined  to  make  her  son,  Ibrahim,  though 
the  fourth  in  age,  his  successor.  It  may  be  remarked  that 
under  the  treaty  between  the  Sultan  and  Mchcmet  AH,  the 
founder  of  the  dynasty  which  was  sanctioned  by  the  great 
powers,  the  succession  of  the  viceroyalty  was  secured  to 
his  descendants,   meaning  under  the   Mahometan   law  the 

rcldest  of  the  family.  Subsequently  Ismail  with  a  large 
baksheesh  induced  Abdul-Aziz,  then  Sultan,  to  grant  by  a 
finnan  the  succession  to  his  imm<Kliate  descendants.  This 
arrangement  was  the  more  easily  perfected  because  the  Sul- 
tan had  entertained  the  Kime  plan  for  his  own  son,  and  was 


•  84 


MAHMOVD    TKWFIK  PACHA. 


rather  pleased   with  the  precedent ;    moreover,  the  lar^ 
bonus  from  Ismail  which  filled  his  coFFers  was  too  agreeable 
an  ulTering  to  refuse.     But  the  proposition  to  still  further 
change  it  to  the  fourth  son  was  too  radical,  for  the  law  had 
already  been  violated.     This  plan  met  with  determined  apj 
serious  objection  from  the  Sultan,  and  particularly  from  th^ 
religious  element,  which  had  acquiesced  only  in  bestowing 
the  mantle  upon  the   elder  of  the  Khedive's  immediate 
family.     They   raised   a   clamor  against   giving   it    to   bis 
younger  son,  and  Ismail  in  consequence  abandoned    the 
idea.     Several  years  intervened  before  the  mother  was  ac- 
knowledged a  queen  and   Tcwfik  declared  the  successoij 
Of  medium   height,    like   Ismail,   compactly  built,  with 
large,  dark,  placid  eye,  without  much  sparkle  bttt  amiably 
in  expression,  and  with  pleasing  manner,  he  has   the  win 
ning  smile  of  his  family.     He  is  thtity-four  years  of  ag 
With  a  dark  brown  complexion  and  black  hair,  he  looks  less 
like  a  Greek  or  a  Ctrca.ssian   than  any  of  the   family,  and 
could  pass  very  well  for  a  Copt  in  features  and  appearance. 
I  once  saw  a  large  photograph  of  a  Copt  which  was  a  r^| 
markable  likeness  of  Tewfik-     He  alone  of  Ismail's  son^ 
was  not  educ-itcd  in  ELuropc,  but  he  was  liber-illy  instructed 
by  Europeans  in  Egypt,  and  is  accomplished  in  French, 
Arabic,  and  Turkish,  with  some  knowledge  of  English.     Ittr 
may  be  said  of  Ismail  that  he  gave  his  children  no  time  foi^ 
play  ;  both  sexes  were  kept  at  their  studies  through  their 
youth  until  they  were  disposed  of  in  marriage,  which  was 
only  at  maturity,  contrary  to  the  custom  among  Mahome- 
tans, who  frequently  force  children  when  very  young  into 
matrimony.     In  this  respect  even  the  Copt  Christians  fol- 
low their  example,  and  bind  boys  and  girls  together  at  the 
early  age  of  from  six  to  ten  years,     Ismail's  sons  were  edu- 
cated for  affairs  of  state,  and  the  daughters  in  all  modern 
accomplishments.     At  an  early  age  Tewfik  was  a  minister_ 
and  privy  counsellor,  and  in  this  way  became  con^ 
with  the  interior  economy  and  necessities  of  Egypt. 


nvcrsanjl 
.     Thofll 


lit) 


i\ 


l!V  .; 


MAHHOUD    TEiVPiK  PACHA, 


'SS 


who  knew  him  well  say  he  was  earnest  in  business,  for  his 
father,  a  man  of  sleepless  energy,  gave  him  no  time  [or 
Oriental  eas^.  He  robbed  his  son's  harem  of  the  tempting 
luxury  of  numerous  wives,  confining  Tcwfik,  as  he  did  all 
the  rest  of  his  family,  to  the  Christian  rule  of  one  man  and 
one  woman,  being  inexorable  in  this  dcpartuic  from 
Mahometan  precedent.  In  1S73,  at  the  time  of  the  grand 
f£tes  already  alluded  to,  the  marriage  of  Tewfik  to  Amineh 
Hannoum,  the  granddaughter  of  Abbas  I'achn,  was  cele- 
brated. Of  high  honor,  and  with  all  the  instincts  of  a  gen- 
tleman, Tewfik  is  said  to  entertain  great  regard  for  the  ac- 
complished and  amiable  young  tady  who  is  now  dlgnilied  as 
bis  queen.  It  is  asserted  that  in  hij  domestic  relations  his 
life  is  spotless. 

Courting  the  religious  clement,  which  has  great  strength 
with  the  masses,  it  has  been  often  said  that  he  was  under 
its  special  control,  and  that  he  grovelled  in  the  muddy 
waters  of  effete  and  disgusting  superstitions.  No  ruler  of  a 
Maliomctan  country  as  it  is  now  constituted  in  ^gypt  can 
command  .1  peaceful  government,  except  by  the  strong  .arm 
of  power,  without  a  consideration  for  the  people  and  their 
religion.  Pressed  on  all  sides  by  the  advances  of  civiliza- 
tion, the  religious  element  is  alarmed  and  suspicious. 
Ismail,  understanding  this,  did  not  fail  to  instruct  Tewfik 
how  impurtant  it  was  to  have  a  good  underst.inding  with 
the  ulcmas  and  sheiks.  He  repaired  mosques  and  beauti- 
fied neglected  tombs  of  saints,  invited  sheiks  to  sing  the 
Koran  in  his  palace,  and  regaled  the  chief  men  of  the  sects 
with  fine  dinners  after  .Arab  fashion.  This  was  policy,  yet 
it  seems  to  have  miscarried,  for  in  all  the  recent  movements 
the  common  people  seem  to  have  been  more  hostile  than 
any  other  class,  1  do  not  think  the  religious  clement  con- 
trolled him,  as  recent  events  indicate  his  apparent  hostility 
to  it.  Knowing  him  for  many  years,  I  never  saw  in  him 
anything  like  bigotry  and  intolerance,  but  always  the  in- 
stincts of  a  liberal-minded  gentleman.     I  have  often  seen 


i86 


MAffMOUD  TEWFSK  PACHA. 


him  at  the  Dosch,  which  is  the  yearly  ride  over  a  mass  of 
writhing  fanatics,  a  most  inhuiiun  and  di^usting  custom, 
practised  on  the  reluni  of  the  pilgrims  from  Mecca. 
Thou|>h  really  contrary  to  orthodoxy,  it  is  a  binding,  un- 
written law  like  that  of  Juggernaut  in  the  Indies.  Every- 
one of  the  400.000  people  oF  Cairo  who  can  do  so  witnesses 
it,  looking  upon  the  scene  with  ti;ucd  interest  ;  they  con- 
sider it  sacred  simply  because  it  is  a  time-honorcd  custom. 
Many  sects  feel  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  useful  elements 
in  their  religious  ceremonies,  and  the  ignorant  believe  their 
slieik  too  holy  to  injure  a  prostrate  man  by  the  tread  of  the 
horse  in  riding  over  him.  Ismail,  who  had  a  contempt  for 
this  brutal  exhibition,  studiously  avoided  it,  but  finally  fell 
from  grace  in  the  Ia.st  year  of  his  reign.  Having  struck  at 
many  of  the  superstitions  of  his  people,  they  were  some- 
times suspicious  of  him,  and  1  felt  respect  for  his  boldness 
and  liberality.  I  was  surprised  to  sec  him  descend  from  his 
elevated  position  and  apparently  take  a  great  interest  in 
crushing  the  backs  of  the  youth  uf  his  country  under  the 
tread  of  a  horse  ridden  by  a  fanatic.  I  thought  at  the  time 
when  he  yielded  to  this  weakness  that  he  too  was  seeking 
strength  among  this  class  of  his  people,  making  as  it  were  a 
sort  of  rebound  from  the  blows  of  his  creditors,  and  coming 
back  to  first  principles.  It  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  prepara. 
tion  to  meet  coming  events.  Deserted  as  he  was  by 
European  support  when  his  money  was  gone,  and  no  doubt 
seeing  shadows  in  hi*  path,  he  thought  that  by  throwing 
the  weight  of  his  position  in  favor  of  this  hideous  spectacle 
be  might  regain  popularity  with  his  besotted  people. 
Foreseeing  the  time  when  resistance  should  become  neces- 
sary, it  might  be  well  to  call  to  his  aid  the  banner  of  the 
Prophet.  This  spectacle  has  been  finally  abandoned  under 
Tewfik.  Although  better  balanced  than  any  of  the  other 
sons.  I  never  thought  Tewfik  equal  to  his  father,  and  hawj 
not  been  surprised  at  his  failure  in  ruling  a  people 
illiterate  and  fanatical,  with  its  discordant  elements  compll- 


NAMMOUD   TBWf/K  PACHA. 


'87 


catcd  b>*  the  Anglo-French  oligarchy.  Good>natured  and 
well-meaning,  but  in  the  iron  grasp  o(  the  powers,  he  found 
it  difficult  to  reconcile  conflicting  interests.  The  increasing 
jealousy  of  the  Arab  against  foreign  rule,  which  Ismail  in 
his  weakness  had  entailed  upon  Egypt,  was  becoming  daily 
more  aggressive.  The  material  (acts  which  have  been  re- 
lated thus  far  mostly  came  under  my  own  observation,  and 
are  sustained  by  the  published  ofTici-iI  correspondence  of  the 
Consuls-General  of  England  and  France.  The  figures  are  all 
from  published  official  records;  where  I  have  not  read  them 
I  have  given  my  authorit)*.  What  will  be  further  noted  is 
based  entirely  upon  the  same  authoritj'.  My  conclusions 
are  founded  upon  facts  which  have  come  from  those  entitled 
to  confidence,  who  !i!(c  myself  were  long  residents,  who 
were  in  Egypt  at  the  time  I  left  there  in  March,  (879,  and 
who  had  the  best  means  of  learning  the  incidents  which  led 
to  the  late  aggressive  war.  It  is  impossible  to  get  to  an 
understanding  of  this  question  without  following  it  some- 
what in  detail,  but  this  will  be  done  as  briefly  as  possible. 

It  has  been  already  shown  that  foreign  rule  had  created 
widespread  alarm  and  discontent  among  all  classes  of  the 
people,  and  consequently  among  the  National  party,  which 
was  becoming  influential.  The  finances  were  unsettled,  and 
there  were  the  same  difficulties  as  in  the  past  in  raising  even 
a  moiety  of  the  interest  demanded.  It  has  never  been 
questioned  that  Tewfik  was  a  mere  creature  of  the  bond* 
holders,  and  that  he  was  expected  to  reinstate  the  comp- 
trollers with  greater  influence  than  they  had  enjoyed  under 
Umail.  In  order  to  smooth  his  advent  to  power  they  were 
compelled  to  give  up  their  demand  for  places  in  the  cabi- 
net. Thus  far  they  permitted  Tewfik  to  rid  the  new 
ministry  of  its  most  odious  feature.  They  conceded  this 
much  to  the  clamor  of  Egypt,  and  by  so  doing  Ihey  stulti- 
fied themselves,  for  it  was  solely  on  this  ground  (so  they 
pretended)  that  Ismail  was  removed.  Nevertheless  this 
did  not  subsequently  prevent  the  most  extraordinary  exac- 


i8S 


MAHMOUD    TEWFIK  PACHA. 


tions,  and  the  application  of  a  pressure  even  more  exquisite 
in  its  cruelty  than  that  formerly  used.  What  added  to  the 
lamentation!*  of  the  fellaheen  waa  that  through  the  forms 
of  iaw  Europeans  by  questionable  means  had  come  into 
possession  of  large  tracts  of  land  belonging  to  them. 
Under  the  rule  of  the  whip  and  the  bastinado  they  were 
left  with  life  enough  to  regain  :ittfcngth  sufficient  to  culti- 
vate their  small  tracts  of  land  ;  but  now  they  were  driven 
from  their  homes  with  their  starving  families  ;  what  trifling 
substance  the  miserable  fellah  usually  had  was  soon  eaten 
up,  and  they  were  reduced  to  be^ary.  If  this  loss  had 
been  the  result  of  idleness  or  profligacy,  like  that  of  their 
rulers  in  many  cases,  it  might  be  said  that  it  was  a  just  ret- 
ribution :  but  when  it  is  considered  that  from  necessity 
these  people  were  forced  to  labor  continually,  first  in  pre- 
paring their  lands  for  the  next  crop,  then  in  working  the 
canals  for  the  general  good,  and  lastly  in  unrcmittinK  culti- 
vation afterward,  there  could  have  been  no  more  shameful 
outrage  than  taking  from  them  all  they  had,  wherewith  by 
any  possibility  they  could  gain  a  subsistence.  Did  the  vul- 
ture eye  of  the  creditor  of  the  government  sec  the  slightest 
neglect,  straightway  the  mudir  or  sheik  administered  the 
kourbash  by  way  of  a  gentle  admonition,  and  so  there  was 
no  rest  for  the  children  of  Ishmacl.  There  is  no  people  in 
the  world  who  are  under  greater  subjection  to  the  law  of 
earning  their  bread  by  the  sweat  of  their  face.  After  the 
whip  and  the  bastinado,  which  always  accompanied  the 
bond-holders'  tax-gatherer,  had  failed  to  bring  sufficient 
revenue  to  pay  their  interest,  it  became  necessary  to  resort 
to  some  new  device  to  satisfy  their  rapacity.  They  had 
been  killing  the  goose  that  laid  the  golden  egg.  tn  April, 
1880,  in  pursuance  of  the  demand,  the  Khedive  appointed 
a  European  commission  of  several  nationalities,  in  which 
England  and  France  had  the  lion's  share.  Most  seriously 
interested,  Egypt  wa.<  not  allowed  a  voice,  nor  was  Turkey 
given  a  seat.     Though  the  intention  in  appointing 


MAUUOVD   TBWFIK  PACtlA. 


189 


commission  was  to  adopt  a  just  aystcm  of  land  taxation,  and 
bring  under  the  rule  certain  lands  that  were  believed  to  exist 
that  had  not  been  subjected  to  taxation,  so  that  a  reduction 
of  taxes  might  be  made  beneficial  to  the  oppressed  fellah, 
they  were  no  sooner  installed  than  they  assumed  rights  of 
a  legislative  character.  They  commenced  by  reviving  the 
cadastr£  or  tand-rcvcnuc  survey  system,  with  its  natural 
following,  another  horde  of  foreign  officials,  with  a  very  good 
appointment.  General  Stone,  at  their  head.  To  his  credit' 
be  it  said,  Stone  soon  left  this  odious  connection  to  those 
better  prepared  to  do  the  bidding  of  the  reigning  powers. 

The  work  of  this  commission  was  no  sooner  known  than 
it  was  the  signal  for  another  influx  of  office-holders  from 
foreign  parts,  who  soon  spread  over  Egypt  and  commenced, 
to  the  amazement  of  the  people,  wiping  out  the  ancient 
landmarks  of  their  property.  This  brand-new  land-oflicc  was 
expected  to  effect  the  happiest  results,  by  insuring  metes 
and  bounds  to  every  inch  of  ground,  under  European  sur- 
vey, iind  in  this  way  increase  the  revenue.  The  commis- 
sion reduced  the  rate  of  interest  on  the  nominal  amount  of 
the  debt  from  seven  to  four  per  cent.  It  was  a  mere  pre- 
tence that  it  was  done  to  relieve  the  fellah  ;  it  was  a  deep 
design  to  repeal  the  law  of  the  Moukabala,  it  being  through 
the  philanthropic  show  of  kindness  for  the  fellah  that  the 
commission  was  procured.  The  law,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, was  the  rich  legacy  left  by  Sadik  Pacha,  the  defunct 
minister  of  Ismail.  It  provided  that  by  paying  into  the 
treasury  one  half  the  rent  of  the  land  for  six  yean  at  once 
or  by  instalments,  the  owners  were  allowed  to  redeem  it 
forever,  Ismail  solemnly  pledged  his  faith  and  that  of 
Egypt  to  hold  this  law  inviolate,  and  the  bondholders 
gladly  seized  upon  the  money  to  pay  their  interest.  There 
were  one  million  of  these  poor  people  who  paid  into  the 
treasury  $83,000,000,  and  after  i88<|  half  of  their  land  was 
to  be,  according  to  its  provisions,  free  of  taxation  in  per- 
petuity.    In  lending  themselves  to  this  swindling  operation 


190 


MAHMOUD    THWFUC  PACHA. 


by  rep«alttig  the  law,  [he  commissiatt  took  out  of  the 
pockets  of  the  landowner  not  only  the  enormous  sum  in 
hard  cash  which  they  had  paid,  but  the  additional  $85,000,- 
000  rental  per  year  which  they  had  redeemed  i  To  offset 
this  gigantic  robbery,  the  generotti  bondholders  agreed  to 
pay  the  sum  of  $75o,ix»  per  annum,  which  was  a  bagatelle, 
and  to  levy  a  tax  upon  their  neighbors  to  pay  it. 

The  five  great  powers  who  sat  in  judgment  upon  Egypt 
agreed  to  bind  themselves  by  the  decision  of  this  commis* 
sion.  It  was  a  sort  of  treaty  among  themselves,  for  it  was 
so  much  the  custom  among  these  people  to  dispose  of 
Egypt  as  the  property  of  the  foreign  creditor  that  they 
never  deemed  it  worth  while  to  consult  the  Sultan  or  the 
Khedive  in  finishing  their  work.  The  Sultan  had  no  voice 
in  it,  though  Kgypt  was  his  province,  as  already  stated,  and 
Tcwfik  did  not  sign  the  agreement.  The  commission  was 
entirely  local  in  any  view,  and  the  Khedive  paid  its  ex* 
pcnses.  Under  no  construction,  moral  or  legal,  could  it  be 
any  other  than  a  simple  law  of  Egypt,  if  the  action  of  such 
an  extraordinary  commission  as  this  could  be  dignified  as  a 
law  of  any  kind  ;  certainly  by  no  reasoning  could  it  be 
forced  upon  the  common-sense  of  the  world  as  an  "  inter- 
national law"  as  claimed  by  them,  nor  was  it  a  law  of 
Egypt  according  to  the  con»titution  forced  on  Ismail  which 
led  to  his  abdication. 

England,  intent  upon  carrying  out  the  designs  of  the  late 
statesman  who  had  seen  that  the  time  had  come  by  a  wise 
policy  to  plant  the  foot  of  Albion  firmly  on  the  banks  of 
the  Nile,  did  not  hesitate  to  interpret  the  simple  act  of  the 
Egyptian  commission  as  the  action  of  the  five  great 
powers  ;  and  though  the  engagement  was  not  signed  by 
Tcwfik,  yet  she  considered  Egypt  as  a  party,  and  without 
further  consideration  adopted  the  ingenious  term  of  her 
Consul-General,  and  dignified  it  as  an  "international 
engagement."  It  will  be  seen  further  on,  that  upon  this 
pretext  all    Egypt  was  deluged  in  blood.     It  was  not  the 


I 


I 
I 
I 


MAllUOUD    TBH'FIK  PACHA. 


191 


threatening  attitude  of  Arabi  that  brought  on  <itri(c.  It 
was  simply  that  the  Notables  had  proposed  to  vote  upon 
that  part  of  the  revenue  which  had  been  assigned  to  the 
Egyptians ;  any  other  consideration  was  an  Afterthought, 
to  satisfy  the  indignnnt  opinion  of  the  world. 

A  power  had  grown  up  in  Egypt,  created  by  Ismail  when 
he  was  in  the  height  of  his  reign,  filled  with  ideas  of  prog- 
ress, of  the  advancement  of  his  people,  and  of  the  future 
welfare  of  his  countrj-.  Though  he  was,  it  is  believed, 
deceived  into  surrendering  an  important  clement  of  his 
sovereignty  in  the  adoption  of  the  International  Code,  he 
could  not  present  the  plea  of  ignorance  in  granting  a  parlia- 
ment to  the  Arab,  It  is  liWcly  that  he  did  not  foresee  the 
important  rAlc  it  would  be  so  soon  called  upon  to  play, 
when  at  the  outsiet  it  was  an  unwieldy  ma^s  of  ignorant 
sheiks,  who  rather  disliked  being  called  together  at  Cairo  in 
grand,  solemn  conclave  to  vote  upon  questions  of  which 
they  knew  nothing,  and  to  be  laughed  at  by  all  Egypt  for 
being  so  stupidly  ignorant  that  they  did  not  know  what  was 
expected  of  them.  There  is  no  doubt  that  at  first  their 
^ngle  idea  wa*  to  know  the  opinion  of  the  Khedive  upon  all 
the  questions  before  them,  and  to  vote  accordingly.  They 
had  no  thought  of  opposing  him,  and  believed  profoundly 
that  their  safety  lay  in  executing  his  will  by  their  votes. 

Like  the  early  English  Parliament,  the  assembly  soon 
learned  its  latent  power,  however  ;  and  at  this  time,  under 
Tewfik,  the  new  Khedive,  the  Notables  were  only  too  will- 
ing to  "bell  the  cat"  and  vote  the  other  way  in  a  solid 
body.  It  then  became  "  the  laugh  that  laughs  not."  The 
Notables  made  respectful  but  firm  demands  for  additional 
authority,  in  order  that  they  might  with  more  certainty 
legislate  upon  the  unassigned  revenues,  over  which  they  had 
the  right  of  control.  The  comptrollers  saw  in  this  the 
design  of  clipping  the  enormous  salaries  of  $35,000  and 
$30,000  for  themselves  and  their  foreign  coadjutors,  which 
were  drawn  out  of  the  pittance  allowed  to  conduct  the 


«9» 


MAUMOUD   TEWPIK  PACHA, 


Egyptian  Government,  and  not  from  the  half  assigned  to 
the  bondholders.  They  then  raised  a  cry  of  dismay  at  the 
temerity  of  the  Notables,  declaring  that  the  country  was  on 
the  road  to  ruin,  and  their  ministry  at  once  resigned,  to 
produce  an  effect  upon  Europe.  Cbcrif  Pacha  formed  a 
new  ministr>',  with  the  idea  that  it  was  good  policy  to  have 
the  Notables  to  play  otT  against  the  military  power,  and 
thus  produce  an  equilibrium  in  the  politics  of  Egypt.  fl 
The  comptrollers,  however,  seeing  the  glittering  gold  fnP 
sliding  out  of  their  clutches,  made  haste  to  lay  the  matter 
before  their  royal  agent,  and  ordered  him  to  take  a  snap 
judgment  on  the  refractory-  Notables,  and  to  issue  a  decree 
that  the>*  should  meet  at  once  before  they  could  have  time 
to  make  a  formal  demand  or  he  to  grant  the  additional 
authority  required.  At  this  time  a  new  power  entered  into 
the  problem  of  Egyptian  politics,  in  the  person  of  Arabi 
Pacha,  an  obscure  lieutenant-colonel,  who  only  three  years 
before  had  been  in  command  of  a  regiment  of  2500  men  at 
Rosctta.  This  man  was  destined  to  play  an  important  part 
in  the  tragedy. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

ACHMET  ARABI    PACHA. 

Anbl  Pacha  M  tint  known  by  tb«  writer— His  exintordlnary  devotion  lo  hli 
[kith'Pcrfional  characietlitlcs  of  the  aiAa — Caiuci  that  limt  pixed  bim 
>l  the  Ileal)  o(  the  National  parly — Tbc  cocnpiroJIert  and  the  House  of 
Noublei— Quart  el  over  the  unaaslgned  revenue*,  growing  out  ol  the 
rapacity  ol  Englisb  officials— TcwGli  a  mere  tool  of  England  and  France 
— His  weakness,  vacillation,  and  folly — Arabl't  first  great  act  as  •  popu- 
lar leader — England,  backed  by  France,  lolcly  responKtble  for  the  ai- 
letnpted  revolution — Ignoble  part  played  by  the  Sultan — "  True  inward- 
neiR"  of  the  English  policy— Arrival  of  the  English  Heet— The  mauacrc 
at  Alexandria  and  the  bombardmcni— .\rabr»  s(rate);y  us  a  general^ 
End  at  Tel-el-Kebir— Arabi's  mistakes— Tbc  war  on  Egypt  resolved 
into  a  determination  lo  keep  131;  Englishmen  In  fat  places. 

I  KNEW  Arab!  Pacha  for  many  years,  but  never  suspected 
him  of  possessing  the  qualities  of  a  revolutionist.  Since 
the  late  outbreak  in  Egypt,  many  occurrences  have  come 
back  to  me  that  can  be  explained  only  on  the  theory  that 
even  then  he  was  brooding  over  the  wrongs  of  his  race. 
Far  superior  to  the  majority  of  Arab  officers  in  intelligence, 
he  was  reserved  and  secluded,  a  man  of  thought  who  took 
care  to  improve  hiii  opportunities.  He  was  a  fanatic  in  his 
close  attention  to  the  duties  of  his  religion,  Hgidly  following 
its  superstitious  customs,  never  neglecting  his  numerous 
prayers  and  ablutions  or  his  attendance  at  the  mosque. 
Intimate  with  the  sheiks  and  ulemas,  he  was  always  looked 
upon  as  a  pillar  of  the  faith. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  he  was  the  only  leadinff 
man  in  this  revolutionary  6asco  ;  some  of  those  who  were 
considered  the  best  and  most  reliable  men — officials  and 
others — in  Egypt  were  equally  compromised.      It  was  a 


i9* 


ACUMET  ARABl  PACffA. 


general  uprising  of  the  whole  Arab    race    against    great 
wrongs. 

Arabi  Pacha  ts  of  large  size,  compactly  built,  o(  dark 
brown  complexion,  full  face,  lai^e  bUclc  eyes  of  amiable 
expression,  and  gentle  manner.  During  the  Aby<i<iiniafl 
campaign  he  acted  as  quartermaster  in  charge  of  transpor- 
tation, but  did  not  succeed  vcr>'  well — not  from  any  fault  of 
his,  but  through  the  utter  incapacity  and  cowardice  of 
Ratib  Pacha,  the  commanding  general  of  the  expedition. 
Here  it  is  again  necessary  to  notice  the  comptrollers  and 
their  assistants.  In  order  that  they  might  consummate 
their  scheme  for  thwarting  the  just  action  of  the  Notables 
in  their  vaulting  ambition  to  rule,  they  took  counsel  from 
their  suspicion.t  and  procured  an  order  sending  Arabi  Pacha 
from  Cairo.  Their  extraordinaiy  action  brought  this  officer 
into  public  notice  in  the  most  unexpected  manner  possible, 
iind  placed  him  at  the  head  of  the  National  party  as  a 
political  leader.  Arabi's  offence  was  that  he  had  drafted 
new  rules  for  the  Notables  in  1879.  For  this  reason  he 
was  considered  as  having  present  influence  with  them,  and 
consequently  as  a  dangerous  man.  Tliis  unheard-of  procedure 
was  the  signal  for  an  outburst  of  indignation  among  all 
classes  in  Cairo.  The  excitement  drew  from  their  homes 
the  quiet  and  orderly  people  of  that  city,  and  a  new  and 
enthusiastic  popular  ovation  was  given  Arabi.  The  people 
accompanied  him  out  of  the  metropolis,  when  he  obeyed 
the  order  of  the  Khedive  to  leave  the  city.  Rid  of  his  op- 
position, the  comptrollers  threatened  the  Notables  with  the 
thunder  of  their  wrath  in  case  they  dared  to  touch  the 
budget,  or  even  to  mention  it  in  their  assembly.  They 
could  exile  them  as  they  had  the  acknowledged  leader  of 
the  people,  but  they  could  not  gag  the  simple-minded  fel- 
laheen from  the  villages  along  the  Nile,  They  had  created 
among  that  silent,  downtrodden  people  a  feeling  that 
Allah  would  right  their  wrongs. 

As  Arabi  will  hereafter  act  a  prominent  part  in  the  events 


ACIIMET  ARAB/  PACUA. 


>95 


which  led  to  the  catastrophe  at  Tcl-cl-Kcbir.  it  is  well  to 
Fcafltrm  that  the  nnny  hutl  been  sadly  neglected.  The 
comptrollers,  the  reul  rulers  of  Eg>'pt,  not  only  heaped 
contumely  on  it,  but  it  was  their  secret  intention  to  dismiss 
the  larger  portion  of  the  army  so  as  to  lessen  the  expense 
of  the  government  and  to  destroy  as  far  as  possible  any 
ibuUvarIc  by  which  the  people  could  resist  th«  constant  op- 
pression visited  upon  them.  The  new  government,  alarmed, 
had  appointed  as  minister  of  war  a  Circassian  by  the  name 
of  Osman  Pacha  Riflti,  a  notorious  scoundrel,  whose  history 
wit]  be  found  in  a  chapter  on  the  war  with  Abyssinia. 
Certainly  there  could  be  no  more  fit  instrument  to  perform 
a  treacherous  act  than  Osman.  The  papers  of  the  day  state 
that  he  appointed  to  colonelcies  a  number  of  Circassians 
over  the  heads  of  many  Arab  officers  who,  by  seniority, 
competency,  and  service,  were  entitled  to  promotion. 
These  wrongs  and  the  need  of  many  necessary  reforms  in- 
duced three  colonels  to  present  a  respectful  petition  for  re- 
dress. Subsequently  the  regiments  to  which  they  were 
attached  were  ordered  to  attend  a  procession.  It  had  in 
the  mean  time  been  determined  that  upon  their  presenting 
themselves  for  that  purpose  the  colonels  should  be  arrested 
and  imprisoned.  Osman  was  only  too  glad  to  engage  in  the 
cowardly  and  treacherous  scheme,  but  his  plan  proved 
futile.  The  regiments,  on  learning  of  the  arrest  of  their 
commanding  officers,  went  in  a  body  and  demanded  their 
release,  and  the  craven  Circassian,  dreading  the  vengeance 
of  an  outraged  people,  leaped  from  a  two-story  window  to 
escape  the  merited  punishment.  The  result  was  that  the 
Khedive  ordered  the  release  of  the  colonels  and  dismissed 
the  infamous  Osman.  Throughout  these  occurrences  the 
Khedive,  feeling  himself  in  the  iron  grasp  of  the  powers, 
was  really  in  sympathy  with  hi.*  people.  Pledging  his  faith 
at  the  outset  to  follow  the  instructions  of  his  masters,  and 
having  been  completely  entangled  in  their  policy,  he  coutd 
look  to  them  alone  to  maintain  him  in  his  position.     But 


196 


ACHMBT  ARABI  PACHA. 


he  was  weak,  and  every  movement  of  the  people  for  any 
right  sent  a  shiver  through  him.  Constant  vacillation  wa-t 
the  consequence.  Arrests  and  releases  of  the  arrested  EoL- 
towed  each  other  continually. 

Having  lost  all  confidence  in  a  ministry  thoroughly  hostile 
to  their  interests  ;  helicving,  according  to  the  published 
accounts  of  the  day,  that  they  were  being  sold  out  to  the 
foreigner,  and  feeling  that  the  Khedive  was  under  duress, 
the  people  and  the  army  became  excited  to  such  a  degree 
that  they  called  upon  Arabt,  now  a  prominent  leader,  to 
ask  the  Khedive  in  their  name  to  redress  their  wrongs. 
Arabi  with  a  large  bod>'  of  soldiers  then  surrounded  the 
palace  of  the  Khedive  and  demanded  the  dismissal  of  the 
ministry,  the  ;wsemb!y  of  the  Notables,  and  the  restoration 
of  the  army  to  its  former  status.  This  was  no  assembly  of 
military  for  sinister  ends,  nor  an  uprising  to  gratify  personal 
ambition,  but  it  was,  as  Arabi  said  at  the  time,  a  plan  "  to 
secure  by  arms  the  liberties  of  the  Egj'ptian  people."  His 
famous  speech  during  these  event*  deserves  praise,  particu* 
larly  as  his  act  was  for  the  people  and  not  for  his  personal 
aggrandizement.  He  appealed  to  England,  which  had 
made  such  efforts  for  the  liberation  of  all  slaves  elsewhere, 
to  sympathize  with  the  Egyptians  in  their  attempt  to 
obtain  liberty.  All  the  acts  of  thU  man  have  demon- 
strated that,  whether  in  or  out  of  power,  he  never  did 
aught  to  justify  the  imputation  of  ambition  or  self-seeking. 
He  merely  acted  as  the  leader  of  nine  tenths  of  the  people, 
who  demanded  an  .administration  which  was  theirs  of  right. 
Never  in  any  instance  did  Arabi  or  the  Notables  by  legis- 
lation attempt  to  deprive  the  bondholders  of  the  revenues 
set  apart  for  the  payment  of  their  interest. 

The  English  Consul-General,  in  conjunction  with  the 
English  comptroller,  was  busied  in  creating  "incidents," 
the  more  rapidly  to  hurry  Egypt  into  a  criiiis.  "  Compli- 
cation," as  he  wrote  later  to  Granville,  "  of  an  acute  nature 
must  supervene  before  any    satisfactory   solution  of    the 


ACHMET  ARAB!  PACHA. 


•97 


Egyptian  question  can  be  attained  ;  and  it  would  be  wiser 
to  hasten  than  to  endeavor  to  retard  it."  This  remarkable 
despatch  is  the  key  to  the  entire  poUcy  which  by  gradual 
steps  led  to  the  expected  catastrophe.  All  the  movements 
of  the  powers  up  to  this  time  were  in  accord,  both  Prance 
and  England  agreeing  that  the  cause  of  trouble  was  with 
the  Notables — namely,  the  fear  of  legislation  on  the  bud- 
get. Arab!  and  the  military  were  entirely  unmentioned  in 
the  published  despatches.  To  Gambctta  it  was  not  so  dear 
as  to  the  consul  that  the  action  of  the  commission  was 
"  international."  He  looked  at  it  rather  as  a  "  simple  proc- 
lamation" to  reorganize  the  finances,  to  which  the  powers 
were  invited  by  the  decree  of  the  Khedive.  Even  the 
comptrollers,  when  it  became  urgently  necessary  to  warn 
the  Notables  to  "  beware,"  simply  excused  themselves  by 
saying  it  was  a  mandate  written  to  strengthen  the  hands  of 
the  Khedive.  It  is  now  well  understood  that  the  statement 
that  the  war  was  occasioned  by  a  violation  of  "  inter- 
national engagements"  was  not  true.  The  published  corre- 
spondence does  not  sustain  the  theory  that  the  Khedive  was 
bound  by  this  fiction,  for  at  the  very  time  the  question 
arose,  he  objected.  They  overcame  his  squeamishness  by 
telling  him  it  was  none  of  his  business  ;  that,  being  simply 
the  vassal  of  the  Sultan,  he  must  refuse  his  sanction  to  any 
legislation  upon  finance,  and  must  notify  the  Notables  of 
his  determination.  In  answer  to  a  protest  from  the  Sultan, 
they  said  he  had  so  little  interest  in  such  matters  that  he 
could  not  dictate  to  the  Khedive  upon  this  important  ques- 
tion. Their  crooked  policy  was  like  a  two-edged  sword — 'It 
cut  both  ways.  It  will  be  recollected  that  while  these 
events  were  occurring  Tewfik,  foreseeing  the  coming  storm, 
b^ged  that  Turkey'  might  be  asked  to  send  troops  to 
Egypt  to  control  the  outburst  fast  approaching.  But  as 
this  might  "retard"  the  end  his  masters  negatived  the 
proposal  as  soon  as  made. 
After  this  terrible  effort,  Tewfik  once  more  subsided  into 


198 


ACHMET  AJtABl   PACHA. 


his  accustomed  Oriental  meditation  on  nothing.  The  Sul- 
tan wa9  not  apparently  lost  to  all  sense  of  humanity. 
Foreboding  the  misfortunes  so  soon  to  fall  upon  the 
devoted  head  of  the  fellah,  he  proposed  sending  a.  general 
to  advise  against  precipitating  \\u  v;i$sal  into  war.  He  too 
wanted  to  l>c  heard  in  (avor  of  pe.Kc.  Uut  this  would  have 
been  a  stumbling-block  in  England's  path  to  conquest. 
The  Sultan  was  bidden  not  to  do  it.  Superior  to  the 
menace  of  the  powers,  he  sent  two  envoys  in  the  hope  of 
peace,  but  these  were  summarily  withdrawn  in  compliance 
with  powerful  remonstrance,  and  the  "  excrescence*"  finally 
contented  himself  with  sending  Dervish  Pacha,  who  arrived 
too  late  to  do  more  than  play  a  small  diplomatic  game  with 
both  Tcwfik  and  Arabi.  If  there  were  any  doubt  of  '*  the 
anxiety  to  hasten  it,''  England  cut  the  Gordian  knot  by 
despatching  two  iron<cI.tds,  ostensibly  to  scare  the  Turkish 
envoys  out  of  Egypt,  but  really  to  keep  up  the  excitement. 
This  was  done  against  the  protest  of  Turkey.  Egypt,  and 
even  of  the  British  consul,  who,  it  seems,  had  not  matured 
hb  plans.  The  agents  of  the  bondholders,  feeling  that 
their  governments  had  entered  eanicstfy  into  their  cause, 
refused  to  lixten  to  the  strongest  appeals  of  the  Notables 
for  compromise,  though  these  people  had  shown  by  every 
act  that  they  did  not  intend  injustice  to  any  of  their  lawful 
engagements,  and  particularly  that  they  did  not  contem- 
plate interference  with  the  rights  vested  in  the  bondholders. 
So  their  timely  but  respectful  request  met  with  contemptu- 
ous defiance,  and  they  were  lold  that  they  really  had  no 
right  to  legislate  upon  finance  at  all,  not  even  upon  the 
unassigned  revenues.  It  was  declared  that  "  the  action  of 
the  comptrollers  extends  to  the  whole  public  service,"  as- 
suming directly  that  they,  the  bondholders'  creatures,  were 
the  rulers  of  Egypt. 

M.  Dc  Frcycinct,  Gambctta'a  successor,  on  learning  of 
the  unheard-of  demand  of  these  Egyptian  (foreign)  oflicials, 
exclaimed.  "  It  never  could  have  been  intended  that  the 


ACMMHT  AHABi  PACUA. 


•99 


comptrollers  sliould  take  the  whole  direction  of  the  Govern- 
ment  oT  I^gypt  ;"  and  the  English  minister  wrote  that  he 
"  would  not  advocate  a  total  or  permanent  exclusion  of  the 
chambers  from  handling  the  budget."      The  world    had 

[passed  its  (pinion  upon  the  extraordinary  policy  of  these 
olTicials,  and  the  Eiigliiih  Govcmmcnt  had  to  do  something, 
however  little,  to  disavow  the  action  of  its  representatives. 
It  also  became  necessary  to  soften  the  anger  of  the  credi- 
tors ;  so  the  Foreign  Secretary  added  that  he  had  ap. 
proachcd  the  (|uci.lion  with  "caution,  on  account  of  the 
pecuniary  interests  on  behalf  of  which  Her  Majesty's 
Government  have  been  acting."  He  asked  what  effect  it 
would  have  u])un  finances  if  the  Notables  attempted  the 
handling  of  the  unassigned  revenues.  The  consul  stated  in 
reply  that  "  the  official  salaries  would  be  under  their  con- 
trol, and  that  the  Notables  would  be  able  to  abolish  the 
land  survey  and  dismiss  many  Europeans  in  the  administra- 

ilion."  By  regular  methods  they  had  proceeded  to  entangle 
Egypt  in  tlieir  meshes,  getting  all  they  cared  for  through 
the  consuls,  the  Khedive,  and  the  Sultan  ;  they  had  now 
arrived  at  a  point  where  ihcy  could  bring  their  governments 
directly  in  conllict  with  the  representatives,  and  force  them 
to  become  openly,  as  they  had  been  secretly,  responsible 
for  the  evenH  in  Egypt.  Instead  of  meeting  the  Notables 
in  3  conciliator)'  spiiit,  the  Consul-Gencral.  knowing  that 
he  was  supported  by  the  great  powers,  deliberately  turned 
his  back  upon  them.  His  act  having  been  approved,  by 
the  powers,  they  were  responsible  (or  all  the  consequences. 
There  was  no  overt  act  by  the  Arabs  ;  they  had  merely 
stated  their  case  ;  but  daring  even  to  contcmpkitc  a  viola- 
tion of  the  comptrollers'  orders  was  magnified  into  a  great 
offence  ;^inst  the  dignity  of  the  governments  which  had 
bui  just  unmasked  their  hidden  policy  and  boldly  pro- 
claimed themselves  the  champions  of  the  bondholders.  It 
is  needless  to  multiply  facts  showing  the  spirit  with  which 
the  new  masters  of   Egypt  pursued  the  representatives  of 


300 


ACMMET  ARABI  PACUA. 


to 

] 

1 


the  people.  The  patient  "  beasts  of  burden"  in  assembi 
met  it  without  complaint.  But  the>'  firmly  believed  th. 
eventually  the  two  great  governments  would  listen  to  theii 
appeals  (or  justice  in  the  name  of  humanity.  Instead  of 
this,  they  were  menaced  with  force  if  they  did  not  yield 
their  rights  to  the  two  comptrollers.  This  was  simply  ask- 
ing them  to  declare  themselves  slaves,  and  to  return  to 
their  mud  villages  to  be  again  entertained  with  the  swing 
the  old  sceptre. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Ismail  tried  to  check  tbi 
encroachments  of  the  foreigner,  and  in  doing  so  aroused 
the  deep  hatred  of  the  Arab  for  the  latter.  But  it  w.os  tO' 
late  to  stem  aggression.  It  only  ended  in  driving  him  fro 
the  throne.  The  Arab  had  learned  through  Ismail  that 
too  was  a  power  in  the  land.  TewRk,  who  began  by  mort- 
gaging his  .authority  to  the  foreigner,  soon  found  himself 
confronted  by  the  Notables,  the  army,  and  the  peopl 
The  Arab  ministry,  which  dared  to  think  (or  itself  and  su: 
tain  the  Notables,  was  immediately  marked  for  the  vea 
geance  of  the  masters  of  Egypt.  Tewfik  was  compelled  t 
act  against  the  counsels  of  his  minLitry.  The  Sultan,  wh 
at  this  time  was  playing  a  double  part  through  his  enii 
saries,  was  required  to  denounce  the  assembly  of  Notabl 
and  the  ministry  which  supported  thenn.  This  doubl 
pressure  led  to  the  resignation  of  the  latter  body.  Po< 
Tewfik,  who  had  lost  all  influence,  found  it  impossible  t 
form  another  cabinet  directly  in  favor  of  the  creditors,  ani 
experienced  another  bitter  check  to  his  policy.  Th 
ministry  was  scarcely  dismissed  before  he  was  compelled 
take  it  back  into  his  counsels.  The  Khedive's  weakne 
made  him  the  tool  of  his  enemies.  The  hour  had  come, 
devoutly  anticipated  by  the  comptrollers  and  consul 
agents.  Under  the  plea  th.it  Tewfik.  who  had  been  faith- 
ful to  them,  was  in  danger,  ihcy  insisted  that  it  was  abso- 
lutely  necessary  to  re-establish  him,  their  too  willing  ally, 
To  effect  this  grand  object,  the  British  and  French  Iron-cla 


ACUMBT  AKABI  PACHA. 


aot 


arrived  at  Alexandria  on  the  2otli  of  May,  against  the  pro- 
test of  the  Sultan.  The  English  official  had  previously 
[Written  that  "  the  political  advantage  of  the  arrival  of  the 
combined  fleets  would  override  the  danger  it  might  possibly 
cause  to  Europeans  in  Cairo."  They  soon  presented  an 
lultimatum,  in  which  it  was  stated  that  "if  necessary,  they 
fwould  visit  the  ministn,'  with  dismissal  and  Arabi  with 
exile,  to  restore  to  the  Khedive  the  authority  which  be- 
longs to  him,"  while  perfectly  well  aware,  from  facts  within 
their  knowledge,  that  neither  attempt  would  be  submitted 
to.  Thus  it  is  seen  that  Egypt  was  confronted  tvith  war, 
while  her  people  were  doing  all  they  could  through  their 
representatives  to  prevent  it.  The  conflict  was  urged  on 
solely  in  the  interests  of  the  bondholders  and  their  agents, 
the  comptrollers,  or  so-called  officials  of  Egypt,  whose 
salaries  were  made  to  take  the  most  conspicuous  place  in 
the  startling  programme. 

Tliis  was  the  state  of  affairs  when  the  English  and  French 
fleets  entered  the  port  of  Ale-xandria.  It  will  be  remem- 
bered that  for  more  than  three  years,  beginning  at  the  close 
of  the  reign  of  Ismail,  the  National  party  had  been  grow- 
ing, and  at  this  time  it  comprised  the  whole  Arab  popula- 
tion. AH  the  elements,  and  particularly  the  religious 
element,  which  control  the  masses  were  very  much  excited. 
Many  honestly  believed  that  the  foreigner  was  absorbing 
their  countrj' ;  others  thought  that  their  Mahometan  faith 
was  in  danger.  The  ulcmas  and  sheiks  had  been  unceasing 
in  Riling  the  ignorant  masses  with  this  idea.  They  believed 
Tewfik  to  be  in  the  power  of  the  English  and  French,  and 
though  they  felt  kindly  toward  him,  still  they  believed  their 
safety  rested  with  the  ministry  and  with  Arabi  Pacha, 
whose  advice  they  implicitly  followed. 

In  getting  their  licet  ready  for  action  under  the  pretence 
of  protecting  Tewfik,  the  English  should  have  considered 
that  they  were  acting  against  a  vast  multitude,  really  a 
mob,  spread  over  a  great  extent  of  country,  excited  by  con- 


ao3 


ACHMBT  ARABl  PACt/A. 


stant  outrage  and  by  the  (iery  appeals  of  the  sbciks  and 
utcmas  to  n  frenzied  f.tnaticUm.  These  unfortunate  people 
in  their  despair  were  driven  to  crystallisation  under  Arabi 
Pacha,  in  whom  they  had  enthusiastic  confidence.  He 
had  stood  up  manfully  (or  their  rii^hts.  because,  like  them, 
he  was  bom  in  a  mud  hut  and  had  experienced  the  woes  of 
their  race.  Never  before  having  seen  any  man  who  dared  to 
brave  authority,  who  could  resist  backsheesh,  and,  above  all, 
who  was  not  captivated  by  the  blandishments  of  official 
preferment,  there  seemed  to  them  every  reason,  morally 
and  politically,  why  Arabi  above  all  others  sliould  be 
heeded.  The  question  will  be  asked,  Why  was  silent  con- 
tempt the  only  answer  to  his  urgent  appeals  to  England  to 
extend  the  same  kindness  to  the  slaves  of  Egypt  that  she 
had  shown  to  the  slaves  in  all  other  countries  ?  The  great 
naval  armament  had  come  too  far  and  had  cost  too  much 
to  go  back  at  the  beck  of  humanity.  It  was  its  glorious 
privilege  to  try  its  metal  upon  a  poor,  miserable,  insignifi- 
cant, ignorant  people,  who  had  had  all  the  spirit  lashed  out 
of  them  by  cruel  taskmasters  for  thousand-s  of  years.  As 
this  magnificent  fleet  lay  in  their  harbor,  with  its  broadsides 
covering  the  cit>',  ready  at  any  moment  to  begin  the  work  of 
destruction,  the  ragged  Arab  population  were  looking  on 
with  a  da7.ed  and  bewildered  curiosity,  never  realizing,  even 
at  the  last  instant,  that  "glorious  old  England,"  .irour 
which  so  many  splendid  associations  clung,  whose  name  had 
been  heralded  wherever  liberty  or  humanity  had  an  abidii 
place,  was  about,  without  cause  or  justification,  to  demolts 
their  fortifications.  I,iy  in  ashes  their  beautiful  city,  and 
throw  enormous  deadly  missiles  among  their  women  and 
children,  herded  together  on  the  narrow  neck  of  land  upon 
which  Alexandria  is  built,  and  from  which  there  was  no 
escape.  To  the  gallant  sailors  exhausted  in  the  work  of 
death,  when  the  roar  of  cannon  had  ceased  for  a  moment, 
how  sweet  must  have  been  the  agonising  cr>*  of  despair  and 
the  shrieks  of  dying  women  and  children  as  they  came  to 


ACHMf.T  ARABl   PACHA. 


WJ 


I 

I 


them  waited  by  gentle  zephyrs  through  the  dense  black 
smoke  which  enveloped  them  !  Did  they  stop  to  ask  the 
question,  "  Are  we  justified  ?  Have  we  given  these  people 
sufficient  warning  ?  Are  wc  dooming  these  people  and 
their  beautiful  city  to  destruction  only  to  gratify  the 
rapacity  of  unscrupulous  bondholders  and  their  cold- 
blooded agents?" 

The  worm  trodden  on  will  sometimes  turn  and  sting. 
The  massacre  of  the  llth  of  June,  1S82,  was  a  terrible 
event  ;  but  could  it  have  been  unexpected  to  those  who 
knew  the  extraordinary  rabble  of  all  nationalities  inhabit- 
ing Alexandria  ?  The  consul  evidently  expected  it  at 
Cairo,  but  thought  the  fleet  had  conjured  away  the  danger. 
The  Mahometan  was  excited  by  the  threatening  attitude  of 
the  fleet,  which  to  his  mind  meant  approaching  tyranny. 
The  rabble  of  all  other  nationalities  was  simply  elated. 
When  the  fleets  threatened  Alexandria  there  was  a  regu- 
larly constituted  [jovernmont  in  F.gypt.  There  was  no  real 
cause  of  war  between  Egypt  and  the  great  powers.  There 
had  been  no  declaration  of  war  against  ICgypt  or  against 
the  Sultan,  against  whom  such  declaration  would  lie.  The 
fact  that  the  guns  of  the  deserted  fortifications,  without 
regular  artillerists,  were  pointed  to  the  sea  and  the  entrance 
and  but  few  toward  the  city,  is  a  striking  evidence  that  the 
military  authorities  never  contemplated  fighting  a  powerful 
fleet  within  the  harbor.  The  fortifications  at  best  were 
wholly  uncqiial  to  the  powerful  .irmament  before  them,  and 
the  repairs  going  on  and  the  slow  movements  of  a  few  guns 
were  a  mere  bagatelle.  The  massacre  which  had  taken 
place  was  one  of  those  accidents  which  happen  among  ex- 
cited people,  and  if  report  speaks  truly  it  was  just  as  likely 
to  have  been  begun  by  the  foreigners  as  by  the  Arabs.  It 
Is  B*"*"^''/  conceded  that  much  the  larger  number  killed 
were  Arabs.  The  movement  of  the  military,  the  anxiety 
I  of  the  people,  the  necessary  confusion  of  a  populous  city, 
I  and  the  separation  of  the  leader  and  generals  from  the 


I<M 


ACHMET  AftABI  PACHA. 


ministr)'  and  Khedive  produced  delay  and  often  a  conllk 
of  orders,  for  want  of  any  regular  system.  Tlic  orders  ft 
instant  obedience  to  the  imperative  demands  of  the  Englis 
admiral  were  nuturally  unheeded  for  want  of  time,  thoug 
in  reality  it  was  the  intention  to  submit  to  force.  Fact 
subsequently  developed  seem  to  demonstrate  this  proposi 
tion  as  true,  and  to  sliou*  that  one  reason  for  hurrying  th 
bombardment  was  that  it  might  be  arranged.  fl 

The  officer  commanding  the  English  fleet  natunlR 
smarted  under  the  extraordinary  spectacle  witnessed  a  fei 
days  before,  when  many  foreigners  were  killed.  He  wa 
almost  within  hearing  of  the  shrieks  of  the  wounded  an< 
dying,  without  the  power  to  afford  relief.  The  fact  tha 
the  bombardment  took  place  in  such  hot  haste  had  tb 
semblance  at  least  of  huny  to  efface,  if  possible,  the  morti 
fication  of  being  bearded  by  a  few  ragged  Arabs.  Findinj 
the  English  fleet  had  determined  to  try  the  effect  of  th 
ponderous  shot  from  their  enormous  iron-clads,  Arabi,  ti 
the  few  days  he  had,  made  such  preparation  as  he  could,  t 
reply  to  this  attack.  Feeble  though  it  was.  it  is  said  tb 
Englishmen  expressed  admiration  at  some  parts  of  th 
defence.  The  struggle,  as  expected,  was  short  ;  the  forti 
fications  were  destroyed,  thousands  of  Egyptians  wer 
killed  at  their  guns,  and  the  city  of  Alexandria  was  par 
tially  burned.  France,  up  to  the  act  of  war,  was  enlisted  ii 
bringing  Egypt  to  the  support  of  the  policy  that  the  twi 
powers  had  advocated,  but  wisely  thinking  there  was  m 
cause  (or  war,  naturally  sensitive  where  her  honor  was  cor 
cerned,  and  believing  in  peace,  though  equally  intcrestei 
with  England  in  Egyptian  affairs,  she  ordered  her  fleet  t 
sail  out  of  port  before  the  sound  of  English  cannon  wa 
heard  in  the  unholy  task  of  devoting  the  doomed  city  am 
its  people  to  the  dreadful  horrors  of  war.  There  was  a 
justification  for  the  bombardment.  Few  nations  or  peopl 
have  been  found  to  applaud  the  deed,  and  England,  bcini 
wholly  responsible  with  France   for  leading  Egypt  to  h« 


ACffJUBT  ARAB!  PACHA. 


•OS 


I 


great  misery,  impartial  history  will  condemn  her  act  as  an 
outburst  of  savage  vandalism,  scarcely  paralleled  even  in 
her  annali. 

Recent  events  are  so  fresh  in  the  memories  of  men  that 
jt  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  more  upon  this  subject  ;  but  a 
few  words  arc  due  to  Arabi  Pacha,  who  was  placed  sud- 
denly in  command  of  the  civil  and  military  administration  ; 
for  Tewfik,  the  nominal  head  of  the  government  in  this 
crisis,  being  without  influence  or  power,  had  disappeared 
and  shut  himself  up  in  liis  palace  at  Ramlch.  ArnbJ's  was 
one  of  the  most  difficult  and  trying  situations  in  which  any 
man  could  be  placed.  He  was  at  the  head  of  a  country 
without  money  and  with  few  resources.  But  slightly  ac- 
quainted with  government,  he  seems  yet  to  have  brought 
some  sort  of  system  out  of  disorder,  and  to  have  made  a 
brave  and  successful  struggle  in  diplomacy  and  intrigue 
with  such  time-honored  veteransas  Cherif  Pacha,  of  Egypt, 
and  Dervish  Pacha,  the  Sultan's  representative.  His  great 
blunder  was  in  permitting  Lesseps  to  persuade  him,  under 
the  pretence  of  neutrality,  not  to  interfere  with  the  Suez 
Canal,  which  was  in  his  power  for  several  weeks.  He  let 
the  opportunity  pass  under  the  inspiration  of  the  wily 
Frenchman.  This  folly  blinded  him  to  a  proper  and  timely 
preparation  at  Tel-el-Kebir,  for  the  defence  of  his  line  from 
Ismailia  to  Cairo,  really  the  only  practicable  route  for  the 
season.  Displaying  ability  up  to  this  point,  he  signally 
failed  here  ;  he  did  not  read  histoiyaright.which  should  have 
informed  him  that  no  great  nation,  especially  England, 
would  ever  respect  international  law  under  such  circum* 
stances.  His  military  movements  were  equally  at  fault, 
and  proved  him  unable  to  cope  wth  his  adversary  in  the 
strategy  of  war.  Even  at  the  last  moment,  in  selecting  the 
two  positions  of  Tel-el-Kebir  and  Salhteh,  he  did  well,  but 
he  neglected  his  defences.  Above  all,  he  should  have  con- 
centrated his  forces.  Instead  of  having  25,000  or  30,000 
men.  many  of  them  irregulars,  at  Tel-el-Kebir,  he  could 


3fl6 


ACIIMBT  AKABf  PACBA. 


easily  have  had  50.000  regular  troops  there,  by  leaving 
small  garrisons  ;it  Damtetta,  Aboukir,  Kafir  Dawar,  and 
Cairo.  He  knew  that  the  great  fleet  ol  England  could 
command  the  coast  and  capture  or  destroy  its  fortifications. 
His  work  was  in  the  interior,  and  his  enei^ies  should  have 
been  expended  in  massing  his  forces  at  the  strongest  points 
there.  Instead  of  these  ordinary  precautions,  he  undertook 
the  impossible  task  of  defending  all  Egypt,  and  was  crushed 
without  making  a  respectable  fight.  Another  important 
circumstance  which  had  a  bearing  tn  hurrying  the  collapse 
was  the  surprise  at  Tel-cI-Kcbir.  This  shows  that  he  pos- 
sessed the  extraordinary  characteristic  of  his  race,  of  never 
occupying  himself  with  thought  of  danger  except  when  it 
was  imminent,  and  of  never  repairing  a  bridge  unless  it 
were  falling  to  pieces.  This  Oriental  indolence  coupled 
wilh  intentional  neglect  is  remarkably  illustrated  in  this  in- 
stance. Before  an  enemy  was  near,  the  empty  desert  being 
in  front  and  around,  the  army  of  Arab!  was  clouded  with 
Bedouin  scouts  and  pickets  in  the  distance.  Every  pre- 
caution that  a  general  should  take  when  he  was  in  active 
operation  and  expected  an  attack  was  observed.  But.  ex- 
traordinary to  relate,  no  sooner  were  the  English  within  a 
day's  march  of  him  than  he  withdrew  his  scouts,  pickets, 
and  Bedouins,  for  (ear  somebody  should  be  hurt.  The  re- 
sult was,  the  English  were  tn  the  Egyptian  defences  before 
the  defenders  knew  of  the  advance,  and  the  war  was  ended 
at  a  single  blow.  Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  been 
credibly  informed  by  a  prominent  resident  of  Alexandria, 
who  was  there  during  the  events  related,  that  Sultan  Pacha, 
an  agent  of  the  English,  had  bought  off  the  Bedouins  from 
the  front  of  Arabi,  and  that  subsequently  he  had  been  paid 
(50,000  for  his  services  on  this  occasion.  Arabi's  ignorance 
of  this  accounts  for  his  surprise.  Many  simple  truths  are 
now  indisputable  ;  among  them  the  fact  that  England  and 
France  ruled  Egypt  through  the  Khedive  for  more  than 
three  years,  and  are  responsible  for  the  discontent  among 


ACIIMBT  ARABt  fACUA. 


K>7 


I 


the  people.  The  purpose  of  forcing  the  people  to  pay  the 
Indebtedness  of  tlic  government  to  the  bondholders  and  the 
salaries  of  foreign  officials  engaged  in  their  interest  was  the 
occasion  of  sending  their  fleets  to  Alexandria.  Though  the 
ostensible  rcajton  for  making  war  was  to  protect  Tewfik,  the 
ally  of  the  bondholders,  against  the  military,  the  real  reason 
was  that  the  Notables  claimed  the  right  to  legislate  upon 
the  unas^signcd  revenues  of  Egypt  in  the  budget,  which 
might  interfere  with  the  pay  of  the  1325  foreign  ofliccrs 
forced  upon  the  countiy.  The  act  of  the  comptrollers  in 
ordering  Tewfik  to  drive  Arab!  Pacha  out  of  Cairo  for  fear 
he  might  influence  the  Notables  in  their  Icgislatioii  upon 
the  pay  of  these  ofHcials  was  an  acknowledgment  that  he  was 
a  great  political  leader,  and  it  influenced  the  entire  people 
of  Egypt  to  consider  him  as  such.  There  can  be  no  ques- 
tion that  Arabi  Pacha  was  opposed  to  the  massacre  of 
Christians,  and  did  all  he  could  to  prevent  it  ;  and  it  is  cer- 
tain that  he  was  in  no  manner  concerned  in  the  burning  of 
Alexandria.  In  a  word,  he  was  honest  and  humane,  and 
carried  on  war  as  best  he  could  according  to  the  usages  of 
civiliEcd  nations,  at  least  so  far  as  can  be  learned  from  any 
evidence  that  has  been  published,  and  he  is  entitled  to 
credit  for  saving  the  Suez  Canal  from  injury  under  extraor- 
dinary provocation,  it  matters  not  from  what  motive. 


.^_L 


CHAPTER   XVn. 

A  JOURNEY  TO  MOUNT  SINAI. 

PkMing  ihrough  th«  t^nd  o(  Gothen— lu  aModalioo*,  aadent  aad  modeni 
—The  toute  ol  the  IsncliiM— Some  speculaiioat  reluing  u>  the  purl- 
arch  Joieph— The  stun  from  Suei— Aclvcolui'c*  on  the  Red  5ea~Tbe 
vfllac^  o(  Tor— The  pleasures  of  i]ro(iieiliir7-riilin|[— The  life  o(  tbc 
Bedouin— The  ditfcieoce  between  the  dromedary  And  the  camel— The 
Arabian  horse  and  as»— Misbaps  of  desert  iraTcl— The  approach  to 
CebclUiua. 


A  PARTV  having  been  formed  to  go  to  Mount  Sinai  dur- 
ing the  winter  of  iS/S.  I  was  easily  persuaded  to  join  it,  as 
I  had  never  visited  that  celebrated  mount^iin.  Wc  took 
our  departure  from  Cairo.  It  may  not  be  uninteresting,  in 
pusing  over  the  land  of  Go-shen,  to  give  a  short  description 
of  the  country  once  occupied  by  the  ancient  Israelites,  a 
few  facts  in  their  history,  and  some  of  the  incidents  con- 
nected with  the  exodus  of  that  people.  Wc  left  on  thCi 
train  for  Suez,  where  a  ste;tmer  was  expected  to  take  us 
across  the  Red  Sea.  Immediately  outside  Cairo  the  soli- 
tary obelisk  at  Hcliopolts  marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  city 
of  On,  where  the  temple  of  the  .lun  once  glittered  in  its 
morning  rays,  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  interesting  ob* 
jccts  in  Egypt.  Joseph  married  the  daughter  of  the  high 
priest  of  the  temple,  and  as  this  monument  stood  in  front 
of  it,  the  shaft  must  have  been  a  familiar  object  to  his  eyes, 
and  thus  may  be  said  to  be  connected  with  biblical  hbtory. 
While  the  hieroglyphics  indicate  that  the  Pyramids  arc 
much  older  than  this  obelisk,  yet  the  Bible  nowhere  men- 
tions them  directly,  and  only  once  darkly  refers  to  them 
(Job  3  :  14).     Near  here  is  also  the  famous  old  sycamore 


A  yOURN&Y  TO  MOUNT  SIXAl. 


"Off 


called  the  Virgin's  tree.  The  tradition  Ls  that  it  sheltered 
the  Mol/  Family  in  its  flight  into  Eg>'pt,  and  often  near  ib 
the  fate  of  Cairo  has  been  decided  by  the  sword.  During 
the  Crusades  St.  Louis  was  taken  prisoner  at  Manzouni 
while  on  his  march  to  this  spot,  and  the  Duke  of  Artois,  his 
brother,  was  killed.  Here  Kleber,  in  modern  times,  as  if  to 
cflace  that  defeat,  conquered  the  Egyptians  and  took  pos- 
■ession  of  Cairo.  In  retaliation  he  was  assassinated  by  a 
fanatic.  Here  too,  Tomans,  the  last  king  of  those  savage 
freebooters,  the  Mamelukes,  was  taken  prUoncr,  and  exe- 
cuted in  Cairo,  near  a  mosque  at  the  famous  old  gate  of  the 
street  which  leads  to  the  Citadel.  Mounting  the  debris  at 
Heliopolis  and  looking  directly  across  the  viaxy  green  plain 
before  it,  and  over  the  Kile  to  the  opposite  side,  a  clump 
of  date  trees  is  seen.  Thb  is  the  village  of  Embabch,  and 
markii  the  spot  where  Napoleon  fought  the  battle  of  the 
Pyramids  with  the  Mamelukes.  Carrying  the  e>-e  along  the 
horizon  to  the  south,  the  great  Pyramid  of  Cheops  is  in 
splendid  view,  whence  you  have  the  4000  years  looking  down 
upon  Napoleon's  battle.  Wc  soon  come  to  the  ruins  of 
Tel-cl-Yahoodeh  (the  mound  of  the  Jews),  noted  as  the  site 
of  Onion,  where  the  son  of  Onanias  the  high  priest  built  a 
temple  modelled  after  that  at  Jerusalem,  obtaining  author- 
ity to  do  so  from  a  liberal  Ptolemy,  Thirty  miles  farther  we 
are  at  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Bubastis,  now  called 
Tell  Basta,  the  seat  of  power  of  the  twenty-second  dynasty 
of  the  Pharaohs,  the  city  from  which  Shishak  began  the  ex- 
pedition which  resulted  in  the  capture  of  Jerusalem  and  the 
bringing  of  the  holy  vessels  from  the  temple,  798  B.C.  To 
this  site  and  a  short  distance  beyond,  the  fertile  land  ex- 
tends, and  now  the  water  of  the  new  canal  to  Ismailia 
passes  on  its  way,  charged  with  the  fertilizing  alluvium  of 
the  Nile,  to  make  fruitful  the  ancient  land  of  Goshen,  and 
open  navigation,  closed  for  so  many  centuries,  between  the 
Nile  and  the  Red  Sea.  Starting  from  Cairo,  it  taps  the 
two  seas  near  the  centre  of  the    Suez  Canal,  and    thus 


»IO 


A   yOt/SffKY  TO  MOUNT  SINAJ. 


realizes  the  idea  which  puzzled  the  brain  of  the  greatest 
gmofi);  the  Pharaohs  and  all  his  succeifsors,  and  only  nowj 
consummated  by  the  govenimcnt  of  Egypt.  The  canall 
just  completed  from  the  Nile  at  Cairo  to  the  canal  of  Suez 
will  open  in  time  a  very  rich  country,  and  gradually  but 
certainly  make  ancient  Goshen  as  fertile  as  in  the  olden 
time.  By  impregnating  the  sands  with  its  fertilizing 
alluvium  the  Nile  will  in  a  few  years  make  it  again  blossom; 
as  the  rose. 

Near  Bubastis  are  the  ruins  of  Tcl-cl-Kebir,  in  the 
opinion  of  many  archaeologists  the  Pithom  of  the  Bible, 
where  Jos<*ph  and  Jacob  met,  and  the  spot  where  recently! 
the  English  crushed  the  National  party  of  Egypt  which  had 
risen  against  Tcwfik  and  his  allies.  There  is  much  more 
diversity  of  opinion  as  to  where  the  city  of  Ramescs  was 
located.  Tradition  places  it,  and  the  world  seems  to  have 
settle<l  down  to  the  conclusion  that  it  uas  at  the  other  end) 
of  an  ancient  canal,  that  ran  from  Pithom  to  the  Red  Sea,: 
near  the  present  city  of  Ismailia,  which  lies  on  the  western 
side  of  f^ake  Timsah  ;  the  site  is  called  Masamah,  and  is 
twenty-eight  miles  south-west  of  Ismattia.  It  was  here  and 
in  the  country  adjacent  that  Moses,  the  experienced  gen- 
eral as  well  as  sage,  gathered  his  people  for  their  famous 
march  (Ex.  12  :  37  ;  Num.  33  :  3-5),  takingwhat  is  known 
as  the  Wady  Tawarak,  just  beyond  the  present  city  of 
Suez,  and  near  which  the  crowning  miracle  occurred. 
Though  Hcrr  Brugsch,  the  great  arch«ologist  and  linguist, 
advances  a  very  striking  theory,  which  will  be  noticed 
farther  on.  it  is  diflicult  to  shake  the  faith  of  those  who  ac- 
cept the  route  which  tradition  for  so  many  thousands  of 
years  has  marked  out  to  be  the  true  one,  a  conclusion  arrived 
at  by  a  careful  collation  of  facts,  which  reciprocally  support 
while  they  fully  explain  one  another.  The  new  theorists, 
on  the  contrary,  affirm  that  the  city  of  Ramcscs  was  located 
where  the  city  of  San  or  Zoan  now  lies,  formerly  the  site 
of  the  old  city    of  Tanis,  near  the  Mediterranean    Sea. 


A   yoURNEY  TO  MOUNT  SINAt. 


311 


Bnigsch  Bey  infers,  from  the  hieroglyphics  on  two  statues 
found  at  the  site  of  Tanis,  that  Ramescs  H.  gave  his  name 
to  this  town,  and  farther  eastward  there  are  monuments 
upon  which  arc  read  "  Thuka"  or"Thukut,""  the  same, 
he  thinks,  as  "  Succoth"  in  the  Bible,  the  first  camp  of  the 
Israelites  ;  and  he  places  Pithom,  the  trea:«urc  city,  on  the 
route  to  Migdol,  their  second  camp.  A  papyrus  in  the 
British  Museum  contains  the  name  of  Katom,  which  he 
thinks  was  Etham  ;  and  thus  he  takes  the  chosen  people 
from  camp  to  camp.  The  Israelites  crossed  the  isthmus 
over  the  marshes  which  lie  between  the  Red  Sea  and  the 
Mediterranean,  near  a  place  now  called  Kantara,  the  u»ual 
road  to  Syria.  His  argument  is  strengthened  by  the  fact 
that  here  lie  the  great  Scrbonian  bogs,  which  Egyptian 
mblcs  say  had  swallowed  up  whole  armies  while  marching 
'along  the  coast.  The  names  of  Strabo  and  Dtodorus  are 
given  a.<i  authority  for  these  fables,  and  they  speak  of  this 
country  as  at  times  covered  with  water  to  a  considerable 
depth.  Brugsch  fortifies  his  opinion  with  numerous  facts 
and  historical  interpretations  of  the  Egyptian  monuments, 
which  prove  to  him  that  it  \vas  here  that  Pharaoh  and  his 
host  met  their  fate,  not  by  waters  from  the  Red  Sea,  but 
by  the  waves  of  the  Mediterranean.  Mis  brochure  is  in- 
genio.us,  able,  and  learned,  and  is  well  worthy  of  study. 
Maricttc  Bey,  another  Egyptologist,  who  was  in  chaise  of 
the  antiquities  of  Egypt,  thinks  it  probable  that  Joseph 
came  hither  under  one  of  the  shepherd  kings,  and  his  being 
^Semitic,  like  these  Pharaohs,  explains  his  appointment  as 
irime  minister.  This  naturally  leads  to  the  conclusion 
that  through  him  occurred  many  of  the  vast  changes  in  the 
prosperity  of  Egypt,  felt  even  in  the  reign  of  Ramescs  11. 
(Scsostris),  the  one  who  "  knew  not  Joseph."  and  in  that 
of  his  thirteenth  son  and  successor,  Mencphthch.  It  has 
been  settled  among  EK>'ptologists  that  the  latter  king  was 
the  Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus,  though  his  tomb  has  been 
found  at  Bab-et-Malouk  instead  of  at  the  bottom  of  the 


3ia 


A    JOUKN&V   TO  MOUtrr  SINAI. 


Red  !»ca  or  of  the  Scrbonlan  marsh.  Manettc  thinks,  with 
Champollion,  that  the  treasure  city  of  Rimoes  of  the  Bible 
is  the  same  as  the  present  site  of  San.  the  same  Rxed  upon 
by  Bnig»ch  Bey.  Thciic  are  the  views  of  the  grcateit 
hieroglyphic  scholars  of  the  present  day.  The)*  have  veri- 
fied these  facts  from  investigations  among  the  historical 
ruins  of  Bg>'pt,  and  from  them  the  hieroglyphtsts  are  con- 
tinuing the  rich  harvest  of  truth  in  these  latter  days. 
Where  before  there  w.ts  scarcely  any  information  gleaned 
to  show  that  Joseph  or  Jacob  were  ever  in  Egypt,  Brugsch 
Bey  in  his  "  Exodus"  presents  much  that  is  confirmatory 
of  the  touching  history  of  the  patriarch  recounted  in  the 
Book  of  Genc--ii». 

It  is  difficult  at  this  distance  of  time,  though  we  have  to 
some  extent  the  recorded  history  of  the  administration  of 
the  patriarch  Joseph,  to  decide  with  any  certainty  in  what 
consisted  the  cxtraordinaiy  policy  which  many  writers 
have  assumed  led  to  the  great  prosperity  of  Egj-pt  under 
that  renowned  prime  minister.  If  it  was  the  hoarding  of 
the  grain  during  the  famine,  of  which  the  inspired  writen 
have  given  us  an  account,  until  it  became  a  monopoly  in 
the  granaries  of  the  Pharaoh,  it  would,  .tccording  to  the 
ideas  of  our  day,  be  considered  a  cruel  visitation  upon  the 
people.  It  would  be  questionable  policy  for  a  despot  to 
compel  his  people  to  sell  all  their  grain,  and  when  necessity 
was  upon  them  to  force  that  very  people  to  ^ve  their 
money,  then  their  lands,  and  finally  their  bodies,  in  return 
for  the  very  grain  they  had  sold.  It  was  simply  commit- 
ting robbery  under  the  guise  of  law,  and  reducing  the  peo- 
ple to  servitude.  When  Joseph  said,  "  There  yet  remain 
your  liberties,  sell  them  to  the  king,"  he  forced  so  mon- 
strous an  alternative  on  the  starving  wretches  that  this 
worthy  minister  of  the  benevolent  king  and  his  philan- 
thropic schemes  are  not  entitled  to  the  least  credit.  Most 
writers  have  measured  the  prosperity  of  Egypt  by  the  mag- 
nitude and  number  of  her  structures  and  her  many  dcstruc- 


a 


A  JOUKNEY  TO  MOUNT  S/ffAI, 


"3 


tivc  war^.  Possibly  to  attain  this  enviable  distinction  tt 
was  the  policy  of  Joseph  to  enslave  the  people  and  thus 
eiubli.-  his  sovereign  to  erect  great  palaces,  temples,  and 
monuments,  and  to  send  out  huge  armies  "  to  overthrow 
kingdoms  and  destroy  the  cities  thereof,"  of  which  doings 
the  history  is  visible  in  their  ruins  even  to  this  day.  Wc 
lind  it  pictured  and  engraved  upon  their  walls  and  monu- 
ments, that  they  were  constructed  by  slaves  and  prisoners 
of  war  for  the  glory  of  the  prince  and  the  worship  of  idols, 
particular  pains  being  taken  to  emphasize  the  fact  that  these 
gigantic  works  were  all  done  under  the  taskmasters  and  the 
lash.  1  confess,  with  all  the  light;*  before  me,  I  have  Utile  re- 
spect for  the  asisumcd  enlightened  policy,  much  less  for  the 
greatness,  of  the  patriarch  Joseph  and  the  king  he  served. 

The  road  now  followed  passes  by  the  pretty  little  French 
built  town  of  Ismutlta,  the  home  of  Lessepswhcn  in  Bgypt. 
It  lies  on  the  western  border  of  Lake  Tinisah.  which  since 
the  cutting  of  the  canal  has  been  tilled  by  the  two  seas,  and 
forms  a  part  of  the  canal.  At  Suez  our  party  embarked  in 
an  open  boat  of  twenty  tons  (or  a  place  called  Tor,  a  dis- 
tance of  140  miles  down  the  dangerous  coast  of  the  Red 
Sea,  where  at  this  season  heavy  storms  are  encountered. 
We  had  been  promised  a  steamer,  but  it  did  not  come,  i 
was  persuaded,  against  my  judgment,  to  take  the  small 
boat,  with  a  party  of  two  others  and  our  servants.  Enter- 
ing upon  the  waste  of  waters,  in  the  dim  distance  eastward 
could  be  faintly  discerned  a  beautiful  clump  of  palms,  with 
a  range  of  sandy  mountains  in  the  background.  These 
palms  mark  the  spot  where  the  pilgrims  of  to-day  slake 
their  thirst  at  Moses'  wells,  like  the  Israelites  in  their  day. 
Our  Mussulmans  prostrated  themselves  toward  the  tomb  of 
the  Prophet,  muttering  their  fanatical  petition  forscvcnt>' 
houris  promised  with  such  questionable  generosity.  Soon 
we  saw  the  majestic  range  of  mountains  on  the  peninsula, 
of  which  Mount  Sinai  (Gebel  Musa).  the  object  of  our 
voyage,  was  the  most  prominent. 


ai4 


A  JOUftyBV  TO  NOVi/T  SrtTAI. 


During  the  first  night  in  our  small  boat  wc  had  a  stonn. 

The  excitement  of  scudding  through  the  water  at  racing 
pace  was  somewhat  heightened  by  the  possibility  of  going 
any  moment  to  the  bottom.  What  added  still  more  to  this 
anticipation  was  the  prayer  of  the  Bedouin  who  ^iteered  our 
boat,  and  who  was  heard  in  his  frequent  calls  upon  Allah  to 
save  him.  lie  hoped  that  Allah  would  give  him  the  houris 
thai  Mahumet  promised  ;  but  stopping  suddenly,  as  if  a 
bright  vision  had  passed  before  him.  he  said  that  he  had  a 
beautiful  hourt  in  this  world  and  if  it  pleased  Allah  he 
would  like  to  stay  with  her  a  little  longer.  As  we  lay  sea- 
sick in  our  frail  boat  upon  this  stormy  night,  1  thought 
this  surpassed  all  the  foolish  things  1  had  done  in  my 
life. 

At  last  the  storm  abated,  and  wc  passed  Cape  Aboo 
Zelimeh,  where  a  sort  of  wooden  hut  is  in  sight,  marking  the 
lomb  of  an  .\nib  saint.  It  is  a  singular  f.ict  that  the  more 
lillhy  he  can  contrive  to  make  himself  and  the  less  clothing 
he  can  wear,  the  more  holy  the  saint  is  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Moslem.  One  of  these  miserable  objects  gives  his  name  to 
this  cape.  In  consideration  of  having  safely  weathered  the 
storm,  our  rics  (captain)  ordered  a  ffitc.  consisting  of  coffee 
and  pipes.  While  regaling  ourselves,  the  customar)*  cup 
of  coffee  having  been  set  aside  to  be  cast  into  the  sea  to 
propitiate  the  saint,  the  rics  in  full  Arab  dress,  cast  a  wist- 
ful eye  at  the  cup.  and  thinking  it  too  full  for  the  saint,  his 
Arab  taste  for  coffee  overcame  his  fanaticism.  Thinking  it 
at  best  but  a  pious  fraud,  he  swallowed  half  of  the  contents, 
and  then,  with  great  solemnity  consigned  the  rest  to  the 
waves. 

Tor  consists  of  a  miserable  little  hamlet  of  three  or  four 
Arab  houses  and  a  strongly  built  Greek  church  for  religion 
;*nd  defence.  The  shore  in  front  is  lined  with  shells,  and 
much  red  coral  is  gathered  here.  It  is  the  site  of  an  old 
Roman  fort,  the  walls  and  bastions  of  which  are  so  crum- 
bling and  sunburnt  that  the  ruins  hardly  reveal  its  original 


J*  JOURNEY  TO  MOUNT  StJfAI. 


"5 


purpose.  It  was  not  long  before  the  usual  haggling  for 
camtls  and  dromedaries  commenced  with  the  Dedouins, 
who  were  prevented  from  overreaching  us  by  the  militar)' 
governor,  himself  somewhat  awed  by  the  oflicial  aspect  of 
our  party.  He  had  lived  in  this  solitary  place  (or  many 
years.  Chickens,  sheep,  and  goats  shared  his  house  with 
him  and  his  harem.  Upon  the  arrival  of  our  party  it  was 
ncces3ar>' to  drive  out  some  of  these  animals  in  order  to 
welcome  us  into  his  "  Salam-Iick."  The  odor  of  the  place 
not  being  fragrant,  wc  hurried  through  coffee  and  pipes  and 
pitched  our  tents  by  the  sea,  some  distance  from  this  high- 
flavored  family.  Mounting  our  dromedaries  on  the  desert 
saddle,  the  most  uncomfortable  invention  ever  designed  to 
torment  man.  we  started.  We  encamped  for  the  night  a 
few  miles  from  Tor,  at  the  well  of  EI  Haide,  pleasantly 
situated  among  gardens  of  palm.trces.  The  Bedouin  in 
those  deserts  scorns  the  labor  of  civilized  man,  and,  like  the 
Indian  of  North  America,  cannot  be  tamed.  Possessing  a 
like  dignity,  he  is  exceedingly  amiable,  and  can  be  induced 
to  behave  himself  by  very  little  money.  He  gossips  and 
laughs,  and  is  by  no  mean$  a  savage  unless  fired  by  fanatU 
cism.  Content  to  pitch  his  low  woollen  tent  in  the  open 
desert,  he  never  thinks  of  sheltering  it  with  a  tree  or  rock, 
though  both  may  be  convenient.  Nominally  an  Egyptian, 
if  asked  why  he  does  not  settle  down  and  till  the  soil,  he 
tells  you  he  can  never  consent  to  make  soldiers  of  his  chlU 
drcn.  With  the  fellah,  the  Egyptian  peasant,  this  is  the 
crowning  act  of  human  miser}-.  Once  under  the  yoke,  he 
never  leaves  it ;  home,  children,  family  ties  are  alike 
ignored  by  the  remorseless  militarj*  power.  No  wonder  the 
Bedouin  Arab  dreads  the  blessings  of  civilization.  Those 
with  us  were  without  their  tents  or  families.  It  was  after 
dark,  and  they  were  soon  grinding  wheat  between  two 
stones,  as  the  Mexicans  do,  preparator)'  lo  making  their 
solitary  meal,  pcrlmps  without  salt,  and  with  only  the  few 
herbs  or  roots  they  happen  to  find  upon  the  desert.     They 


A    yOUUffRY  TO  MOi^ftT  SiNAI. 


crouched  around  the  scanty  fagot  fire,  for  it  was  cold,  their 
camel's  long  neck  betw-eon  them  and  his  nose  at  the  same 
fire  too.  Thu»  camel  and  master  passed  tlic  night.  Such 
is  the  life  of  the  wild  man  of  the  desert.  If  one  accepts  the 
distinctions  of  Pliny  adopted  by  Buffon,  where  two  species 
of  animals  arc  marked  by  nature  with  certain  permanent 
peculiarities,  there  cannot  be  found  such  an  animal  as  a 
camel  in  Egypt  or  in  the  surrounding  deserts.  Unlike  the 
Bactrian,  there  is  no  animal  of*  this  kind  to  be  seen  witli 
two  humps ;  you  never  see  or  hear  of  but  one.  Conse* 
quently  all  these  animals  are  of  the  dromedar>-  species. 
The  name  camel  is  universally  applied  to  the  animal  with 
one  hump  in  this  country,  and  it  is  difiicult  to  draw  any 
distinction  between  it  and  the  dromedary,  also  with  one, 
the  Utter  being  only  considered  a  peculiar  breed.  There 
is  scarcely  an  Arab  over  these  broad  deserts  who  has  ever 
hckrd  of  the  Ilactrian  camel.  The  name  ^tfnvw/f/ (camel) 
is  that  by  which  he  designates  the  most  common  beast 
of  burden  he  has — slow  and  patient,  of  great  size  and 
strength,  used  in  cities  and  on  deserts  for  heavy  loads,  caps, 
ble  of  great  endurance,  of  living  upon  the  coarse  food  found 
upon  the  deserts,  and  of  going  a  long  time  without  water. 
The  one  of  graceful  and  delicate  form,  rapid  in  its  motion, 
smaller  and  of  easier  gait,  is  called  by  the  Arab  kadjim, 
and  by  us  dromedary.  There  arc  others  seen  among  the 
Bedouins,  stouter  and  shorter,  with  more  and  longer  hair 
of  a  pale  red.  We  have  often  seen  one  of  these  on  the 
trackless  wastes,  where  there  is  no  living  thing,  patiently 
moving  with  the  rich  treasures  of  the  East  hooked  on  his 
back  and  his  master  treading  by  his  side  in  perfect  confi- 
dence. Were  it  not  that  nature  had  fitted  him  to  endure 
the  heat  and  sand,  without  food  and  waiter,  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  cross  these  immense  wastes  which  separate  the 
human  family.  Besides  such  valuable  qualities,  they  arc 
also  uncommonly  intelligent  animals,  and  are  said  to  be 
sensitive  to  injustice,  and  for  the  purpose  of  avenging  a 


M  yOURfrEY  TO  MOUNT  ^NAl. 


S17 


wrong  will  wait  a  year,  as  General  Twiggs  used    to    say 
of  the  mule,  to  [jet  a  Rood  kick  at  you. 

No  one  but  the  Arab  will  cat  camel's  flesh,  but  he  con- 
siders it  a  dainty.  Camel's  milk  is  his  food,  and  out  of  the 
hair  he  makes  his  tents,  carpets,  and  clothing. 

Having  travelled  over  Syria,  Palestine,  Egypt,  and  parts 
of  Arabia  and  Abyssinia,  I  will  say  something  about  the 
horse  and  ass  of  these  Eastern  countries.  The  pure* 
blooded  Arabian  is  still  found  in  great  numbers  elsewhere 
in  the  East,  but  Egypt  has  lost  him.  The  greater  cultiva- 
tion of  the  land,  the  destruction  of  the  M.tmeluk-es,  those 
savage  freebooters  who  laid  waste  the  land  and  who 
boasted  in  their  horses  the  blood  of  those  of  the  I'lophet, 
and  the  fatal  disca.scs  which  of  late  have  swept  away  thou- 
sands, have  confined  the  few  that  are  left  to  the  stables  of 
the  Khedive  and  of  his  family,  and  a  very  few  rich  Pachas, 
or  have  driven  them  into  the  desert.  These  hot  countries 
seem  to  produce  a  beautiful,  nervous  horse,  with  clean 
limbs,  small  head  and  ears,  wide  nostrils,  intelligent  and 
bright  eyes,  silky  mane  and  tail,  great  bottom  and  vigor. 
Though  the  stallion  alone  is  used,  he  is  so  gentle  that  he 
never  kicks  or  bites.  Some  think  he  takes  his  haliits  from 
the  people  around  him,  who  being  under  a  "  strong  govern- 
ment" are  very  amiable.  If  the  horse  is  so  elegant  an 
animal  in  these  heated,  sterile  wastes,  his  companion,  the 
ass,  also  thrives.  Found  wild  in  Nubia,  he  attains  great 
beauty  and  spirit  there,  and  only  degenerates  as  he  ad- 
vances into  colder  northern  climates.  If  the  Arabian  horse 
is  not  injured  when  transplanted,  it  is  because  he  19 
caressed,  and  more  attention  is  given  in  the  modification  of 
the  breed  by  a  care  which  is  neglected  in  the  othcrt.  By 
the  lavishing  of  minute  attention  upon  the  one,  he  becomes 
acclimated  in  all  his  beauty,  while  the  other,  patient  and 
gentle,  becomes  by  ill-treatment  an  ungainly  drudge. 
|i  Equal  care  of  him  and  attention  to  his  breeding  would 
H   make  him  the  splendid  animal  so  much  admired  in  the 


siS 


A   JOUJt/fSr  TO  MOUNT  SIKAL 


East.  The  ass  often  attains  nearly  the  height  of  the  horse, 
and  frequently  sells  at  a  higher  price.  Travellers  in  Eg)!* 
are  always  struck  by  the  animal's  wcll-sct  head,  bright 
eyes,  form,  and  speed.  Like  the  camel,  he  will  go  a  long 
time  without  water  and  live  upon  the  commonest  food. 
Capable  of  greater  endurance  than  the  horse,  asses  are  more  ' 
used  for  long  journeys  over  the  deserts,  and  are  often  seen 
with  camels  passin);  over  these  vast  solitudes.  The  saddle 
used  on  them  has  a  protuberance  in  front  which  gives  the 
rider  an  even  and  agreeable  seat.  Followed  by  an  Arab 
boy  who  keeps  the  beast  at  a  brisk  trot  with  a  sharp  stick, 
the  tourist  prefers  him  to  any  other  means  of  locomotion 
for  sight-seeing  in  Cairo.  When  the  Empress  Eugenie  was 
here  she  honored  one,  and  the  ami.iblc  simplicity  of  the 
Emperor  of  Brazil  induced  him  from  choice  and  conven- 
ience to  make  frequent  use  of  this  casy-gaitcd  little  animal. 
Even  at  this  day,  when  carriages  are  so  common,  you  see 
bright-c}-cd  women  folded  in  a  black  silk  covering  like  a 
piece  of  goods,  riding  tn  amasone  upon  superbly  capari- 
soned  asses  of  high  value,  preceded  by  a  eunuch  mounted 
on  a  beautiful-limbed  .■\rabian,  glittering  in  the  richest  gold 
and  silver  embroidered  trappings. 

But  to  our  journey.  Since  leaving  camp,  though  on  a 
plain  nearly  the  whole  day,  there  had  been  a  gradual  ascent 
toward  a  sand  mountain  in  our  front,  the  greater  chain 
looming  up  in  the  south-west.  After  a  short  ride  we 
camped  on  the  edge  of  the  mountain  at  the  first  water  we 
had  met.  On  leaving  Tor  we  were  promised  a  rapid  transit 
over  barren  wastes,  and  the  time  mentioned  in  which  we 
were  to  do  it  was  two  days.  Our  Bedouin  made  it  four. 
"  The  poor  Bedouin  and  the  poor  camels"  is  the  eternal 
plea  with  all  travellers.  We  heard  it  throughout  our  trip, 
but  had  to  Kubmit.  Next  day,  while  mounted  on  one  of 
those  amiable  homars  (donkeys)  which  have  just  been  dis- 
cussed, an  accident  occurred.  1  changed  the  camel  for  the 
ass,  because  of  the  precipitous  ascent  before  us,  my  loi^- 


^   yOUJUfEV  TO  MOUNT  SfXAt. 


119 


eared  steed  being  a  powerful  animal  and  pretty  sure  of  his 
footing.  Losing  it,  however,  on  this  occasion,  he  took  a 
five-foot  tumble  and  dragged  down  not  only  the  rider,  but 
four  Bedouins,  who  on  these  dangerous  roads  rush  to  the 

>  rescue  as  quick  as  lightning.  On  getting  from  under  my 
animal,  1  took  it  for  granted  1  was  hurt,  being  the  heaviest 
in  the  party,  and  was  surprised  at  not  having  even 
a  scratch,  while  all  the  others,  including  the  homar,  were 
^  injured.  After  that  I  mounted  my  dromedary.  This  is 
B  accomplished  as  follows:  A  Bedouin  by  divers  jerks  first 
succeeds  in  coaxing  or  forcing  the  animal  down  on  his 
knees,  with  a  snap  like  that  of  a  double-bladed  jack-knife. 
While  one  holds  his  head  away  to  keep  him  from  biting, 

I  another  ties  his  forelegs  together,  and  then  to  secure  them 
stands  upon  them,  inviting  you  to  mount  and  fix  yourself 
in  ihe  execrable  saddle.  In  the  mean  time  the  dromedary 
is  uttering  the  most  agonizing  cries  of  distress.  Suddenly 
the  Bedouin  loosens  the  strap  and  bounds  from  the 
animal's  legs  ;  another  terrible  grunt  and  you  discover  that 
you  arc  on  the  top  of  this  living  machine,  waiting  patiently 

I  further  developments,  with  your  hands  grasping  the  horns 
in  front  and  rear.  The  animal  raises  his  fore  quarters  with  a 
bound,  and  this  sticks  the  front  horn  Into  your  stomach, 
while  you  are  pressing  upon  it  to  keep  in  a  horizontal  posi- 
tion ;  that  done,  up  go  the  hind  quarters  with  another  jerk, 
and  this  time  the  rear  horn  sticks  you  In  the  back.  You 
arc  only  too  glad  to  get  the  rear  punch  in  token  of  the 
completed  business.  While  the  animal  was  opening  his 
hinges  I  was  thoroughly  impressed  with  the  dizzy  height 
of  several  hundred  feet.  It  is  best  not  to  strike  these  beasts 
too  much,  for  if  beaten  they  arc  certain  to  stand  still  and 
deliberately  turn  their  long  necks  and  try  to  bite  a  piece 

■  out  of  your  legs.  It  then  becomes  necessary  to  stick  to 
them  in  order  to  avoid  their  fury,  until  by  gently  patting 
they  are  made  to  move  on  amicably  again.  Their  walk  is 
rough,  but  they  trot  with  comparative  ease,  carrying  the 


aao  A    JOURNEY   TO  MOUtfT  SINAI. 

head  up  and  tail  straight  in  the  air  and  looking  very  gay  as 
they  rapidly  move  along.  With  your  sack  of  water  and 
leather  thong  they  can  without  much  inconvenience  travel 
from  so  to  80  miles  a  day.  But  in  making  this  swift  pas- 
sage through  the  heated  air  reflected  from  the  burning 
sands  you  are  literally  roasted,  and  this  rubbing  and  twist- 
ing your  loins  and  galling  your  hands  in  the  effort  to  hold 
on  makes  dromedaiy-riding  apainful  operation  to  those  not 
accustomed  to  it. 


CHAPTER    XVni. 
THR     HOI.Y     MOUNTAIN. 


Antral  at  the  Grrek  convent  of  Si.  Calhoiine — The  cnncmbte  ol  tha  »een« 
— A  (Ittlch  of  one  of  (he  oldeot  RlDnBaieriet  En  the  wodd— Kuunded  b; 
the  Emponir  JutliniAi) — Sucecuirc  endo«rmmti  by  monarch*  ibrough 
Jatetreninff  limes— The  camp  by  the  conveal  wall^A  thuD(le»turm  at 
SI  nal^  Ad  venture  with  a  jolly  (rUr— De*c(iptioo  of  the  convent  build- 
lag» — The  tieasures  of  the  chapel  and  ihrlne — Chapel  o(  [he  UutniriK 
Bush — The  chatnel- bouse— The  oaconi  ol  Mt.  Sinai — What  the  Gavernof 
of  Nonb  Carolina  iaid  lo  the  Governor  of  South  Carol  inn— Legend*  ol 
the  mountain — View  fiom  the  mountain-top — The  ancicni  manna — The 
valley  of  Feiran — Tlvt  rival  of  Gebel  Musa— Extreme  hcalthdilneu  of 
ihe  Sinaitic  Peninsula — Ancient  mine* — Baa-retlefB  and  hieioglj^phia — 
Arrlvkl  again  at  Suei. 

Another  two  da>'s'  travel,  and  we  climbed  a  sandstone 
mountain  road  through  a  desolate  waste,  destitute  of  vege- 
tation on  every  side.  The  crumbling  mountains  had  clean- 
cut  peaks,  like  the  buttcs  on  the  North  American  plains. 
Over  this  void  to  the  convent  we  saw  neither  bird,  reptile,  nor 
any  living  thing,  until,  near  Mount  Sinai,  a  little  bird  with 
white  head  and  tail  and  black  body  flew  across  our  path, 
when  our  imaginings  taken  from  the  surroundings  were 
startled  as  though  by  an  apparition.  Our  last  day's  ride 
before  reaching  the  Greek  convent  at  the  base  of  Gebcl 
Musa  took  us  over  the  Pass  of  the  Winds,  which  route  it  is 
supposed  a  part  of  the  chosen  people  took,  while  the  greater 
number  chose  a  long  and  better  road  around.  This  road  is 
difficult,  rocW,  and  dangerous ;  and  when  thrown,  as  is 
often  the  case,  upon  the  neck  of  your  pain.staking  animal 
carefully  picking  his  way  along  the  narrow  paths  over  preci- 
pices, you   fear  looking  down,  it  being  at  best  difficult  to 


>11 


THE  HOLY  SiOVNTAIff. 


keep  an  equilibrium.  It  was  on  this  day  that  we  cami 
sight  of  the  loTty  peak  of  Gcbcl  Musa  (Mount  Moses), 
and  around  which  tradition  lixcs  the  places  where  the  I 
mentous  events  so  graphically  described  in  the  Bible  t 
place.  Nothing  could  be  more  exciting  than  our  first 
view  of  the  mountain  and  of  the  celebrated  Greek  conv 
of  St.  Catharine,  which  is  nestled  among  these  wild 
desolate  rocks  immediately  at  the  base  of  Mount  Sinai, 
can  never  forget  how  the  mountain's  clear  outline  br 
upon  us,  towering  above  all  others,  glistening  in  the  mc 
ing  sun,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the  uttermost  c 
ceivable  desolation.  Everything  impressed  the  mind  « 
a  great  past.  The  mountain  and  valley  have  their  wont 
ful  story  to  tell.  Upon  the  summit,  according  to  bibl 
tradition,  Moses  tarried  under  divine  inspiration.  H 
the  Law  was  given  direct  from  Jehov.ah,  while  the  val 
beneath  was  filled  with  the  choien  people,  awed  by  the 
that  went  forth  in  the  thunders  of  heaven.  On  this  sec 
so  awfully  consecMtcd,  unimaginable  desolation  reign 
As  wcncarcd  the  convent  the  eye  was  relieved  by  the  stj 
of  green  trees — the  lofty  c>'prcss  and,  strange  to  say, 
orange-tree  with  its  golden  fruit,  and  the  pomegranate- 
the  long  garden  of  the  convent,  stretching  out  toward  ui 
if  to  welcome  us  to  its  shade.  This  garden,  filled  w 
plants,  vegetables,  and  flowers,  is  tended  with  great  c 
by  the  monks  who  inhabit  the  old  convent — time-hono 
recluses,  whose  history  dates  back  to  a  very  eariy  Christ 
epoch,  and  who  are  only  moved  from  their  lethat^*  whe 
part)'  like  ours  journey's  so  far,  to  visit  the  venerated  sci 
close  by.  Soon  the  time-worn  outer  walls  came  in  ug 
These  surround  and  hide  the  inner  buildings.  All  we  coi 
see  were  the  watch-towers  upon  the  heights.  Huge  wi 
they  are.  mostly  built  to  guard  against  the  torrents  in  w 
ter,  which  sometimes  sweep  down  in  immense  volur 
carrying  portions  of  both  the  building  and  the  mount 
with  them.     They  were  also  intended  to  guard  against  I 


THK  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


«aj 


incursions  of  enemies,  and  were  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Ju»tinian  nearly  a  thousand  years  ago.  In  the  changes  of 
centuries  armed  hordes  have  sometimes  directed  their  fury 
against  the  venerable  pile.  Then  the  outer  j^ate  closes, 
and  a  chance  visitor  u-ould  have  to  be  haulcU  up  a  great 
many  feet  through  an  inclosed  way.  Upon  the  occasion  of 
our  visit  its  portals  were  thrown  open  to  us  with  a  hearty 
welcome.  \Vc  witnessed  here  that  which  is  of  daily  occur- 
rence— the  feeding  of  lai^e  numbers  of  Bedouins,  Mussul- 
mans who  arc  only  too  glad  to  accept  Christian  ho-spitality 
to  keep  them  from  starving.  It  is  a  traditional  policy  of 
the  monks  to  keep  on  friendly  terms  with  the  Ishmaclitcs. 
Their  uninterrupted  charity  makes  thctc  their  fast  friends, 
and  as  the  convent  is  richly  endowed  it  never  fails  to  per- 
petuate this  happy  fraternization. 

We  soon  pitched  our  tent  in  the  beautiful  garden  of  the 
holy  place,  and  were  visited  by  Monsieur  GregorJo,  the 
principal,  a  good-looking,  reserved,  and  dignified  monk,  to 
whom  we  had  letters  from  his  patriarch  at  Cairo.  As  usual 
their  hospitality  was  bountiful,  payment  therefor  being 
left  to  our  discretion  on  leaving.  Though  pressed  to  enter 
the  convent,  we  camped  out.  Though  the  climate  at  this 
season  i.t  often  dry,  on  this  occasion  it  looked  threatening. 
One  ought  always  to  be  prepared  here  for  a  storm  in  win- 
ter, as  it  comes,  sometimes  as  early  as  the  time  of  our 
arrival,  with  great  violence.  About  midnight  the  gathering 
of  the  black  clouds  m.tdc  it  as  dark  as  Erebus,  and  soon  the 
floodgates  were  opened,  and  such  a  terrific  storm  set  in  as 
is  seldom  witnessed  in  any  other  portion  of  the  globe.  It 
was  the  first  rain  since  the  previous  winter,  and  pent-up 
nature,  seeming  angry  with  the  eternal  sun,  visited  its 
wrath  amid  the  loudest  peals  of  thunder.  Crash  followed 
crash,  accompanied  by  vivid  lightning,  the  thunder  rever- 
berating  from  mountain  to  mountain  until  one  could 
ft  imagine  he  saw  Mount  Sinai  lit  up  just  as  it  was  upon  the 
I  day  when  the  Mosaic  law  is  said  to  have  been  given  to 


«»4 


TUB  HOLY  movhtais: 


man.  If  the  thunder  then  was  anything  like  what  wc 
heard,  it  must  have  made  the  chiKcn  people  quake.  Thb 
splendid  scene  was  agreeable  beyond  expression,  and  lixed 
forever  in  our  minds  Mount  Sinai  and  Its  surroundings.  At 
the  same  time  the  roar  of  the  torrent  on  cither  side  of  as 
wa»  distinctly  heard  as  it  rushed  past  carrying  earth  and 
rock  with  it.  In  the  midst  of  the  deluge  we  saw  by  the 
(lashe-s  of  lightning  a  hooded  monk  in  the  dim  distance, 
groping  his  way  on  the  side  of  the  dangerous  mountain,  at 
the  risk  of  being  swept  away  by  the  increasing  waters,  hold- 
ing in  his  hand  a  lantern  to  guide  him.  He  soon  came  to 
us  with  the  warning  of  impending  danger.  Just  then 
another  peal  crashed,  which  made  the  earth  tremble  and 
caused  our  jolly  monk  to  take  a  seat  inside  our  tent  with  a 
sudden  jerk,  as  if  the  tumult  had  scared  him  a  little.  We 
proposed  to  t.-ilk  over  the  subject,  but  he  thought  it  dan- 
gerous to  play  with  forked  lightning.  He  soon  consented 
to  be  warmed  with  a  little  creature  comfort,  for  considering 
the  storm  I  suggested  to  him  that  it  was  no  harm  even  for 
a  monk  to  indulge  in  a  little  brandy,  as  St.  Paul  says,  for 
the  stomach's  sake.  The  reverend  brother  wisely  thought 
so  too.  and  he  and  I  discussed  his  mission  and  kept  the 
chilly  blast  off  at  the  same  time.  It  was  long  after  mid- 
night, and  he  begged  us  to  enter  the  convent,  fearing  the 
rapidly  increasing  waters  might  sweep  us  away.  But  as  we 
regaled  ourselves  and  enjoyed  a  pleasant  talk,  the  holy  man 
forgot  the  waters  and  the  tempest,  and  as  we  smoked  and 
talked  of  the  pleasures  of  life,  our  friar  proved  himself  a 
good  fellow,  a  jolly  boon  companion  of  an  old-time 
anchorite,  such  as  Scott  introduces  to  us  in  his  novels. 
Having  a  lai^e  Oriental  tent  protecting  us  from  the 
elements,  we  promised,  if  daylight  found  us  alive,  to  enter 
the  sacred  portals  and  remain  during  our  stay. 

The  m,'is9ive  walls  bear  the  scars  of  centuries.  Built  close 
to  the  holy  mountain,  the  convent  has  an  abundant  supply 
of  water,  an  element   specially  important  in  the    desert. 


rilH  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


"5 


I 

I 


Within  its  sacred  indosurc  is  tUc  place  where  stood  the 
burning  bush,  still  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  the  faithful.  Here 
the  Empress  Helena  built  a  chapel  to  commemorate  the 
holiness  of  the  place.  The  broad  entrance  soon  gives  place 
to  low  portals  and  narrow  passages,  on  entering  which  you 
seem  to  be  winding  up  into  some  old  baronial  castle  or 
threading  your  way  into  the  ancient  Egyptian  Labyrinth. 
Then  you  commence  mounting  venerable  and  curiously 
wrought  stairs  and  enter  inclosed  ways  in  your  tortuous 
windings,  the  architecture  of  different  ccntutic-s  revealing 
itscif  during  your  progress.  The  medley  of  buildings,  with-  - 
out  form  or  apparent  plan,  hangs  like  the  nests  of  birds  on 
the  side  of  a  craggy  mountain.  /\s  you  advance  you  meet 
monks  of  all  grades  and  ages,  apparently  intent,  in  their  hur- 
ried walk,  upon  something  important,  and  yet  you  cannot 
imagine  wh;il,  except  that  you  know  that  the  larger  portion 
of  their  time  i-t  taken  up  in  the  solemn  duty  of  prayer  and 
worship.  During  our  stay  this  was  the  only  occupation  of 
the  monks,  and  the  feeling  impressed  me  with  great  force 
that  these  isolated  beings,  who  voluntarily  separate  them- 
selves from  the  human  family  and  live  in  this  worse  than 
howling  desert,  have  indeed  made  a  miserable  waste  of  life 
if  they  never  get  to  heaven.  You  hear  their  pitiful  plaints 
all  night,  and  arc  often  awakened  toward  morning,  when 
sleep  is  sweetest,  by  the  ringing  of  bells  and  the  horrible 
screeching  of  their  song  and  prayer  continuing  from  their 
midnight  vigils.  We  have  already  referred  to  the  assaults 
of  man  upon  this  ancient  convent,  and  while  climbing  to  its 
outer  wall  there  were  to  be  seen  near  the  top  and  running 
at  intervals  around  the  immense  structure,  numerous  little 
embrasures  into  which  were  poked  small  iron  cannon  about 
three  feet  long,  sitting  majestically  and  appearing  very 
fierce  upon  their  diminutive  carriages.  More  dangerous  to 
those  inside  than  any  one  beyond,  it  is  doubtful  whether  a 
monk  could  be  found  bold  enough  to  level  one  of  these 
frail  pieces.     They  are  as  ancient  as  the  hills,  not   even 


>a( 


//t  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


cine 
3rS 


modern  enough  for  their  patterns  to  be  found  in  the 
museums  for  the  curious.  The  conclusion  is  that  this  efTort 
of  the  monks  to  mitk-e  war,  bcmji  harmless,  is  only  another 
pious  fraud,  to  piay  upon  the  credulity  of  the  Bedouins, 
who  no  doubt  arc  impressed  with  the  dcstructiveness  of 
these  terrible  engines  of  death,  high  up  in  the  air,  stickir 
out  of  the  sides  of  the  massive  walls. 

Now  wc  are  on  the  top  of  the  convent,  church,  and  for^ 
fication,  and  on  each  side,  being  in  a  gorge,  wc  can  almost 
touch  the  mountains,  one  of  them  being  Mount  Stnai, 
called  by  the  Arabs  Gebel  Musa,  whose  peak  is  7379  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  the  top  you  look  down 
into  this  fabric  of  a  thousand  years  and  see  the  Greek 
monks,  who  under  the  magic  power  of  religion  have  regu- 
larly succctdcd  each  other  in  all  these  many  years,  immured 
here  even  in  this  enlightened  time.  It  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that,  many  centuries  back,  in  a  more  superstitious 
age,  there  should  have  been  great  numbers  of  these  recluses 
who  filled  the  convent's  numerous  cells,  and  that  thousands 
of  hermits  were  persuaded  that  they  had  solved  the  problem 
of  gelling  to  heaven  simply  by  occupying  everj'  glen,  dell, 
craggy  hill,  and  valley  in  this  neighborhood  ;  also  that 
there  should  have  been  many  incidents  and  stories  of  these 
departed  saints  handed  down  for  the  edification  of  holy 
men  of  the  present  day.  On  the  summit  of  this  house  of 
ages  wc  were  introduced  into  a  neatly  litted-up  chamber 
and  salon  especially  set  aside  for  guests.  Wine  and  cofTee 
with  an  agreeable  collation  were  placed  before  us,  and  the 
further  proffer  of  hospitality.  Next  day,  the  storm  con- 
tinuing, was  devoted  to  exploration  of  the  convent.  En- 
tering the  church,  which  is  located  in  its  centre,  we  found 
the  first  view  of  its  interior  himdsome  and  imposing. 
Walking  upon  an  extremely  rich  mosaic  floor,  in  fine 
preservation  and  not  very  old,  on  either  side  of  its  aisle 
you  are  attracted  by  numerous  columns,  very  ancient,  with 
singular  caps  and  cornices.     The  walls  are  ornamented  wit 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIN.  at? 

pictures  of  celebrated  Greek  saints.  These  were  decorated 
and  preserved  with  religious  care  according  to  their  ecclesi- 
astical style.  Approaching  the  altar,  you  arc  pleased  with 
a  beautiful  mosaic  of  the  Saviour  in  transfiguration  sur- 
rounded by  Moses,  Elias,  Peter,  John,  and  James.  Behind 
the  altar  on  either  side  are  burnished  silver  and  gold 
coffined  eflligies  of  St.  Catharine,  the  patron  saint  of  the 
convent,  who  died  a  martyr  to  her  faith  at  Alexandria  early 
In  the  Christian  era,  and  whose  skull  and  hand  the  monks 
tell  you  were  transplanted  hither  by  a  miracle,  and  are  re- 
ligiously preserved  upon  their  altar.  On  these  gorge<»tis 
silver  coffins  lie  the  splendidly  jewelled  effigies  of  St.  Catha- 
rine, half  raised  and  attached  as  far  as  the  waist,  after  the 
manner  of  the  Greek  Church.  Imagine  an  exquisitely 
beautiful  woman,  about  half  her  person  in  relief  and  painted 
to  simulate  life,  with  the  roseate  hue  of  flesh  and  blood, 
and  all  the  color  the  artist  can  give  her,  adorned  with 
diamonds,  emeralds,  and  other  precious  stones,  a  rich 
diadem  over  her  superb  forehead,  and  a  necklace  of 
diamonds  around  her  well-turned  neck  !  Nothing  can  ex- 
ceed the  beauty  of  her  bust  and  waist,  the  one  adorned 
with  a  precious  emerald  of  great  size,  and  the  other  with  a 
ccinture  of  large  brilliants.  Her  rich  dress  glitters  with 
gems,  her  hands  are  folded  as  though  in  life,  and  upon  one 
of  her  fingers  shines  a  gorgeous  diamond.  The  lout  ensem- 
ble dazKlcs  you  with  its  magnificence.  Time  and  place 
considered,  I  think  I  never  saw  an)thing  more  beautiful  than 
these  costly  and  extraordinary  picture*  adorned  with  their 
rare  jewels.  Both  these  simu/aera  were  royal  gifts — one 
from  the  Empress  Catharine,  the  other  from  Alexander, 
late  Emperor  of  all  the  Russias.  They  are  kept  covered 
with  a  golden  cloth  except  when  pilgrims  like  ourselves  arc 
entertained.  Then,  with  pious  care  and  great  solemnity, 
they  are  unveiled  for  you  to  admire,  under  the  flash  of 
many  brilliant  lights,  .\fter  looking  at  them  we  turned 
and  ga<cd  at  the  monks  who  were  with  us,  who,  with  glassy 


3>S 


TBB  HOLY  MOUHTAtH. 


eyes  And   sh<^£>'  beard  and   hair,  had  a  wild   and   furtive 
look. 

One  of  the  interesting  sights  of  this  convent  19  the 
diairnel-housc,  where  repose  the  bones  of  departed  monks, 
which  stands  outside  and  apart  from  the  monastery.  This 
repository  the  stranger  i:^  allowed  to  sec  if  he  han  the  desire. 
Back  of  this  interesting  sanctuary  you  pass  through  a  portal 
into  another,  ivhcrc,  like  Moses,  the  visitors  arc  requested 
to  take  off  their  shoes,  for  like  him  they  arc  about  to  tread 
upon  holy  ground.  Soon  they  step  upon  a  rich  Persian 
carpet  and  into  the  Chapel  of  the  Burning  Bush,  the  pre- 
cise spot  being  pointed  out  where  this  momentous  histori* 
cal  object  once  stood.  It  is  now  covered  with  burnished 
silver  and  gold,  and  lighted  from  richly  embossed  gold  and 
silver  lamps,  which  give,  after  all,  a  very  poor  representation 
of  that  effulgence  of  which  the  inspired  pen  of  Moses  hu 
written. 

P.^ssi^g  from  these  interesting  scenes  we  behold  the 
pictures  of  the  Emperor  Justinian  and  his  wife,  the 
Empress  ThcodosJa,  the  emperor  having  been  the  original 
builder  and  benefactor  of  the  convent.  Near  the  church, 
inside  the  convent,  and  preserved  with  particular  care,  is  a 
small  Mussulman  mosque.  To  our  wondering  question 
how  it  came  there,  where  a  strange  God  was  worshipped,  the 
smiling  answer  was  given  that  in  the  olden  time  they  per- 
mitted Moslems  to  pray  to  Mahomet  within  their  sacred 
convent,  to  show  their  tolerance  (or  other  religions.  But 
the  general  impression  in  seeing  this  curious  relic  of  the 
past  is  that  if  its  true  history  were  known  it  would  be  that 
this  tolerance  of  the  Christian  for  the  Mahometan  was  in- 
spired more  by  policy  tinged  with  wholesome  fear  than  by 
the  mild  virtue  of  charity.  In  their  library  are  some  old 
manuscripts  dating  as  far  back  as  the  fourth  century,  though 
not  m.iny  of  value.  The  best  arc  kept  in  secret  with  their 
valuables.  There  is,  however,  a  copy  of  the  Codex  Sinaiti- 
cus  here,  said  to  be  a  manuscript  of  the  Bible  of  great 


THE  HOLY  MOUffTAlN. 


»»9 


value,  which  had  remained  hidden  among  the  musty  rolls 
of  the  convent  for  ages  until  the  famous  scholar  Tiwrhcn- 
dorf  unearthed  and  published  it  to  the  civiUzcd  world. 
Calling  upon  the  amiable  Superior,  wc  found  him  far  down 
in  the  lower  regions,  luxuriously  ensconced  in  a  richly  fur- 
nished saloon,  where  it  would  be  difficult  for  a  ray  of  the 
sun  to  penetrate,  and  a  man  without  a  guide  would  find  it 
difficult  to  ferret  him  out.  After  the  Eastern  custom,  his 
apartment  was  surrounded  by  richly  covered  divans,  and  a 
soft  Persian  carpet  covered  his  floor.  I'here  were  many 
articles  of  virtu  and  elegance  arranged  about  him,  indicat- 
ing a  man  of  taste  and  culture.  Seating  us  pleasantly  on 
the  divan  after  mutual  salaams,  wine  and  Mocha  coffee 
were  served,  followed  by  ji;welled  pipes,  and  soon  he 
brought  for  our  inspection  the  noted  illuminated  copy  of 
the  New  Testament  which  has  a  world-wide  reputation. 
Written  by  a  monk  on  vellum  before  the  art  of  printing  was 
known,  it  is  ornamented  on  many  pages  with  pen-pictures 
of  the  Saviour  and  the  apostles  beautifully  executed. 
Then  follows  the  Testament,  written  in  gold,  the  cover 
embossed  in  »lverwith  scriptural  characters.  Our  pleasure 
at  seeing  this  relic  had  scarcely  given  way  before  the  re- 
fined Superior  turned  over  the  pages  of  a  book  equally  re- 
markabk- — the  Book  of  Psalms,  written  by  a  woman,  who, 
the  monk  told  us,  was  St.  Thecla.  one  of  their  feminine 
Greek  saints.  This  pretty  evidence  of  pious  labor  is  the 
entire  Book  of  Psalms  compressed  into  six  pages  of  writing 
about  four  and  a  half  inches  long  and  three  wide,  exquisitely 
fine  and  in  perfect  regularity,  which  can  only  be  read  with 
a  microscope.  The  convent  garden  is  luxuriant  with  foliage 
— a  charming  picture  of  life  in  contrast  with  that  just  seen 
— an  oasis  in  the  midst  of  utter  desolation.  The  weather 
being  fine,  though  piercingly  cold,  I  beg.an  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Sinai,  filled  with  the  purpose  of  following  the  steps 
of  the  renowned  lawgiver ;  but  before  climbing  many  thou* 
sand  feet  truth  compels  me  to  say  that  1  was  convinced 


ajo 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAW. 


that  to  a  patriarch  of  eighty  years  of  age  the  ascent  to  the 
top  was  no  trifling  undertaking,  particularly  if  lie  attempted 
the  7000  (cct  on  A  short  d-iy.  The  ascent  begins  in  a  glen 
twenty  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  convent,  and  looking  up  at 
it  the  mountain -side  has  the  appearance  of  being  perpen- 
dicular. For  ages  the  monks  have  been  making  rocky 
stairs  after  a  fashion  all  the  way  up,  but  the  steps  are  so 
high  that  it  requires  a  tall  man  to  mount  them  without 
great  efTort.  Time  and  floods  t(x>  have  made  sad  changes 
in  these  so-called  stairways,  I  venture  to  say  that  any  pil- 
grim with  my  weight  to  carry  calls  very  often  in  vain  for 
Moses  to  help  him  on  the  weary  way.  Before  coiiiplcttng 
the  ascent  1  had  struck  a  bargain  and  made  a  fast  friend  of 
the  good-natured  and  jolly  monk  who  guided  me.  As  he 
and  I.  unknown  to  the  rest  of  the  human  family,  at  each  of 
the  holy  places  where  there  were  gushing  springs,  took  a 
drink  of  the  limpid  waters,  it  will  not  do  to  say  that  they 
were  mixed  with  anything  else,  for  the  monk's  sake  ;  but 
truth  compds  the  confession  that  1  had  a  good-stied  fla: 
of  old  eau  de  vU  with  which  to  renew  flagging  strength,  but 
not  to  tempt  the  pious  man,  since  .iny  indulgence  might,  if 
found  out,  bring  him  under  discipline.  But  he  was  a  giant 
of  a  man,  and  often  do  I  recollect  with  pleasure  that  after 
refreshing  ourselves  at  these  fountains  he  renewed  his 
herculean  efforts  in  a  way  which  inspired  immense  respect. 
I  can  say  in  confidence  th;it  we  never  failed  at  these  many 
places  to  renew  our  friendly  relations,  and  to  hope  that  all 
those  sainted  pilgrims  who  had  gone  before  us  were  in  un- 
alloyed bliss,  the  memories  of  many  of  whom  were  em- 
balmed in  the  sympathizing  hearts  of  the  occupants  of  St. 
Catharine's  Convent. 

After  toiling  for  some  time  and  coming  to  the  first  spring 
with  only  breath  enough  to  call  a  halt,  I  repeated  the  old 
joke  between  the  Governors  of  North  Carolina  and  South 
Carolina.  This  seemed  to  strike  his  fancy,  and  his  reply 
was  that  such  evidence  of  wisdom  greatly  elevated  Ameri- 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


•31 


can  statesmen  in  his  esteem.  This  spring  w-is  the  fountain 
of  Moses,  and  tradition  says  the  great  sage  watered  here 
the  flocks  of  Jcthro.  his  father-in-law.  The  monk  being 
orthodox  we  ignored  Moses,  and  sitting  on  a  rock  ti^cther, 
dose  by  the  gushing  stream,  as  it  came  out  from  under  a 
huge  boulder  surrounded  by  beautiful  maiden-hair  fern,  it 
was  proposed  that  we  should  drink,  in  silence,  of  the  pure 
water  to  the  memory  of  jcthro,  the  statesman  of  the 
desert.  In  the  course  of  this  interesting  episode,  having  in- 
cidentally mentioned  another  famous  personage  who  dwelt 
lierc,  known  in  the  annals  below  as  St.  Stephen  the  cob- 
bler, whose  skeleton  was  preserved  in  their  charnel-house 
arrayed  in  gorgeous  vcitments,  and  being  pleased  with  the 
opportunity  of  continuing  the  rest,  I  soon  learned  that  the 
saint  was  accustomed  to  patch  up  weary  sinners  on  their 
way,  which  gave  him  the  familiar  name  mentioned.  As 
the  monk  did  not  consider  it  sacrilegious,  we  agreed  to 
mention  this  saint  of  the  calendar,  St.  Stephen  the  cob- 
bler, in  our  next  libation,  and  we  drank  accordingly.  The 
good-natured  guide,  under  the  induencc  of  the  exhilarating 
air  of  the  mountains,  went  forward  with  great  elasticity,  so 
that  in  3  short  time  wc  had  ascended  several  thousand  feet 
and  seated  ourselves  in  a  pretty  little  chapel  among  the 
rocks,  this  time  erected  to  a  holy  female  saint.  The  monk 
informed  me  that  she  passed  their  convent  one  bright, 
beautiful  dayj  and  finding  the  lazy  monks  terribly  worried 
by  those  industrious  little  insects  commonly  called  fleas,  she 
charitably  took  mercy  upon  them  and  miraculously  banished 
the  pests  forever  from  their  convent.  I  complained  that 
passing  travellern  were  so  stirred  up  by  thc^c  little  creatures 
that  they  thought  it  necessary  to  renew  the  miracle  again. 
That,  he  said,  was  a  slander  upon  the  pious  sanctity  of  St- 
Catharinc's  Convent  ;  but  they  had  great  numbers  of  bed- 
bugs, and  it  was  these  biters  that  reminded  them  of  the 
others.  Hoping  that  a  miracle  might  lessen  this  grievance, 
we  left  this  hallowed  place  and  our  seat  by  the  spring,  and 


*i* 


THE  UOL  Y  MOUNTAIN. 


under  the  agreeable  inspiration  climbed*  to  an  archway  in 
the  mountain  where  our  old  acquaintance  St.  Stephen  of 
several  thousand  feet  below  used  to  sit  in  the  olden  time 
and  for  a  trifle  shrive  the  numerous  pilgrims.  This  favorite 
saint  coming  to  our  aid,  we  soon  glided  up  the  rocks  ahead 
and  came  to  a  sm:ill  plain  where  stood  a  solitary  cypress-tree, 
the  melancholy  relic  of  a  fine  garden.  At  this  spot  was 
another  chapel,  where  we  made  a  cup  of  coffee,  which 
helped  to  keep  off  the  chill  of  the  fierce  blast.  The  monk 
said  it  was  here  that  Elijah  and  Elias  came,  and  to  prove 
the  truth  of  the  tradition  quoted  I  Kings  19  :  8,  9. 

This  is  a  imall  plateau  which  answers  the  description  of 
the  place  where  Moses  left  Joshua  and  the  elders  of  Israel 
when  he  made  his  final  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  mount,  and 
where  he  expected  them  lo  remain  until  his  return.  While 
here  they  beheld  that  wonderful  sight,  "  the  God  of 
Israel,  and  under  his  feet  as  it  were  a  paved  work  of  a  sap- 
phire stone,  and  as  it  were  the  body  of  heaven  in  its  clear- 
ness." In  the  valley  of  Rahah,  which  is  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  it  was  impossible  for  the  multitude  to  see  any- 
thing except  the  "  devouring  fire,"  but  from  this  plateau, 
immediately  under  the  peak,  Joshua  and  the  elders  had  a 
better  view  of  the  magnificent  vision,  and  the  fire  girding 
around  the  mount.  The  peak  of  Gebel  Musa  was  so  sur- 
rounded by  other  peaks  that  Moses  could  not  see  the  mul- 
titude  in  the  valley  of  Rahah,  nor  the  golden  calf,  nor  the 
dancing  there,  but  only  heard  the  shouting  of  the  people. 
Though  the  multitude  might  h.ivc  seen  the  peaks  before, 
after  they  saw  the  brilliant  fire  and  glory  extending  into 
the  heavens  from  it,  it  became  so  enveloped  as  "  it  burned 
with  fire  in  the  midst  of  heaven  with  darkness,  clouds,  and 
thick  darkness,"  that  it  wa.';  impossible  to  see  it. 

Somewhat  refreshed,  though  terribly  cold,  our  limbs 
stifTened  and  worn  with  fatigue,  I  began  to  despair  of  ever 
gaining  the  height.  Commencing  again,  we  came  to  the 
footprint  of  Mahomet's  camel.     It  was  distinctly  and  hand- 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


»33 


somely  engraved  in  the  solid  granite  rock,  not  far  from  the 
spot  where  Elijah  turned  back  as  unworthy  to  tread  the  holy 
ground  above.  Finally,  with  the  aid  of  my  companion,  I  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  summit,  and  taking  the  tradilJoital 
eat  of  Moscn,  the  monk  quoted  the  Scripture  of  the  oc- 
'currcnccs  which  happened  here.  While  seated  on  this 
summit  of  Mount  Sinai  (Gcbcl  Musa,  the  highest  peak) 
we  took  within  the  scope  of  our  vision  the  whole  range  of 
rugged  mountains,  of  which  immediately  under  us  was 
Mount  Sufs&feh,  believed  to  be  the  Mount  of  the  Law. 
All  these  mountains  lie  in  a  circle  of  two  or  three  miles, 
and  form  part  of  the  same  mountain  upon  which  we  now 
stood. 

On  the  north,  cast,  and  west  arc  valleys  which  separate 
them  from  the  surrounding  mountains.  On  the  south 
these  peaks  are  separated  from  (he  lofty  peak  of  Gebcl 
Catharine  by  another  valley.  Sloping  toward  its  northern 
peak  is  the  plain  El  Rahah,  two  miles  long  and  one  mile 
broad,  gradually  rising  up  the  mountain-side,  which  sur- 
rounds it.  The  plain  and  mountain-side  are  capable  of 
holding  easily  a  larger  number  of  people  than  any  figure 
yet  given  of  the  chosen  people.  Thoie  who  have  studied 
(he  mountains  of  the  peninsula,  both  from  survey  and  ob- 
servation, think  this  one,  beyond  any  doubt,  fills  the  re- 
quirements, as  it  is  easy  of  approach,  prominent,  and  rise» 
abrupt  from  the  plain,  so  that  one  can  stand  under  it  and 
touch  it.  The  view  from  this  summit  takes  in  great  num- 
bers of  peaks  and  craggy  heights,  and  the  scene  is  unrivalled 
in  beauty  and  sublimity.  The  visitor  turns  from  this  view 
with  an  agreeable  recollection,  to  hear  the  good  man  say 
that  where  we  stand  w.-is  Mount  Horcb,  so  beautifully 
depicted  by  Moses  as  the  place  where  he  stood  "  when  the 
glory  of  the  Lord  passed  by"  (Ex.  33:22);  and  near 
where  we  stood  the  monk  knowingly  pointed  to  the  im- 
pression of  the  head  of  Mosc>  in  the  solid  granite  rock 
when  this  great  event  occurred. 


»34 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 


Before  descending  we  must  not  for^t  to  say  that  on  this 
height  are  a  small  chapel  and  a  sm.ill  mosque,  the  Mussulman 
being  a  believer  in  the  Old  Testament,  though  he  make* 
but  little  noise  over  tt,  confining  his  pious  regards  to  the 
Koran,  which  gives  him  such  a  comfortable  paradise  to 
contemplate,  and  makes  it  easy  to  arrive  at.  lie  never, 
for  the  sake  of  religion,  cares  to  travel  far  into  out-of-the- 
way  places.  When  the  time  for  prayer  comes  he  pros- 
trates himself,  directs  hii  eyes  toward  Mecca,  calls  the 
name  of  Allah,  and  proclaims  Mahomet  his  prophet.  Even 
here  he  tries  not  to  waste  his  prayers  without  being  seen  of 
men,  and  rather  condemns  worshipping  in  secret. 

Having  visited  all  the  holy  places  requiring  our  stay  in 
the  convent,  we  parted  with  the  hospitable  monks,  the 
Superior  giving  us  some  of  his  preserved  dates  gathered  in 
these  mountains,  and  some  of  the  honeyed  manna  upon 
which  the  Israelites  fed,  gathered  near  here  from  what  is 
known  as  the  shrub  larfat  called  by  travellers  the  tamarisk- 
tree.  Having  collected  what  few  green  things  are  to  be 
found  in  the  mountains  and  in  the  valleys,  with  specimens 
of  rock — these,  with  the  manna  and  dates,  were  all  that  we 
were  able  to  take  away  with  us.  Sending  our  camels  and 
our  ser\-ants  on  the  return  road  through  the  valley  of  the 
Wady  El  Sheikh,  we  mounted  our  dromedaries,  and  leav- 
ing our  hospitable  fiiends  to  their  solitude,  turned  in  the 
oppoiiiitc  direction,  toward  the  Kas  SufiiSfch,  on  the  path 
skirting  the  valley  El  Rahah,  in  which  the  Israelites  heard 
the  law.  An  hour's  sweeping  trot  and  another  of  toilsome 
climbing  brought  us  to  several  huge  granite  boulders  near 
the  head  of  a  small  valley.  They  looked  as  though  they 
had  been  detached  from  Mount  Sinai  several  thousand 
years  ago  and  had  lain  in  this  gorge  for  that  time  partly 
buried  jn  the  earth.  One  of  these  immense  boulders  was 
pointed  out  as  the  veritable  rock  from  which  Moses  brought 
the  living  water.  We  were  all  parched  with  thirst  at  the 
time,  and  regretted  to  find  that  at  this  rock  there  was  not  a 


THE  ItOLY  MOUXTAM. 


»3S 


drop  of  water  wherewith  to  slake  it.  If  this  tru  the  rock, 
which  ]  doubt,  here,  too,  another  miracle  is  nccessaiy. 
We  heard  of  another  leputed  site  of  the  miracle  in  the 
Ficran  Valley,  which  we  determined  to  visit  on  passing 
through.  On  our  way  back  we  encountered  our  friar  of 
Gebc]  Musa.  who  crossed  our  path  like  a  bright  vision.  I 
was  plca.«ed  to  renew  a  pleasant  recollection  of  the  past. 
He  ted  us  to  another  great  granite  rock,  immediately  at  the 
base  of  Ras  Sufsafch,  and  our  mentor  with  great  glee 
pointed  to  it  as  the  renowned  rock  of  the  idol.  It  was 
more  than  twenty  feet  in  circumference,  and  had  a  huge 
hole  in  its  centre,  running  to  a  great  depth.  Into  this  hole, 
he  naively  told  us,  all  the  gold,  silver,  and  jewels  of  the 
people  were  poured  to  make  the  golden  calf.  Seated  on 
my  dromedary  near  this  rock  in  the  valley  of  1^1  Rahah, 
the  monk  with  an  air  of  simplicity  turned  toward  me  and 
said,  "  Do  you  see  that  hill?  It  is  there  that  Aaron  sat 
and  watched  the  dancing  around  the  golden  calf."  This 
valley,  as  I  have  already  said,  comes  nearer  filling  all  the 
re<iuisites  than  any  other  on  the  peninsula.  It  was  in- 
terciitirg  to  believe  that  near  where  we  stood  Moses  came 
after  descending  the  mount  and  bcliuld  the  naked  multi- 
tude dancing  around  the  golden  calf,  and  that  here  he 
dashed  into  pieces  the  stone  tablets  upon  which  the  law 
had  been  written.  Hidden  from  him  until  then,  he  was 
ignorant  of  what  had  happened  (Ex.  32  :  19).  The  tradi- 
tions of  this  rock  and  the  valley  were  related  in  the  same 
spirit  of  earnestness  as  those  of  the  mountain.  In  visiting 
holy  places  I  always  carry  a  kindly  spirit.  I  have  thought 
it  the  part  of  wisdom  to  leave  all  questions  for  the  anti- 
quartan.i  to  di.iputc  over  1  and  on  this  particular  occasion  I 
am  willing  to  think  that  it  was  here,  or  near  here,  that  the 
stupendous  events  happened,  that  Moses  and  Elijah  were 
on  this  mountain,  and  that  it  Ls  not  improbable  that  St. 
Paul  visited  it  in  his  travels  to  Arabia,  in  the  account  of 
which  he  makes  plain  mention  of  Mount  Sinai  (Gal.  1  :  17). 


»J6 


THE  HOLY  MOVNTAIN. 


It  is  an  agreeable  reflection  to  the  pilgrim  that  he  has 
traversed  the  path  over  which  thousands  have  forages  beei 
ascending  ;  that  he  han  been  where  the  grandest  figure 
that  early  day  stood — the  mighty  lawgiver  who  proclaimed 
under  divine  inspiration  thoae  statutes  which  for  more  than 
three  thousand  years  have  been  the  foundation  of  all  other 
laws  ;  thnt  he  has  climbed  Mount  Horeb  by  the  same  path 
as  that  followed  by  Elijah,  whose  brilliant  genius  stands  so 
uiaiked  among  the  prophets  of  the  Old  Testament. 

Having  closed  our  visit  to  all  the  remarkable  places  at 
and  around  Mount  Sinai,  and  feeling  fully  repaid  for  the 
fatigue  and  exposure,  we  turned  our  faces  again  toward  the 
Red  Sea.  Rapidly  passing  the  magnificent  approach  to 
the  convent  called  Nakb-cl-HHwi  (the  Pass  of  the  Winds), 
the  near  way  that  Moses  and  his  staff  took,  we  entered  the 
valley  through  which  the  multitude  came,  the  best  and 
longer  route.  I  have  already  spoken  of  our  first  beautiful 
view  of  St.  Catharine,  the  rosy  summit  of  Mount  Sinai,  and 
the  stately  cliU  of  Ras  Safsifeh,  which  overlooked  other 
points  below.  Leaving  all  these  in  the  rear,  we  too  com- 
menced our  return  on  the  road  of  the  people. 

The  rain  had  not  dried,  and  our  dromedaries  alippe 
badly,  for  no  animals  arc  on  wet  ground  so  uncertain  and 
dangerous.  Some  of  them  fell,  and  the  height  being  great, 
there  wa!i  always  danger  of  breaking  bones.  Luckily  no- 
body was  hurt.  The  next  day,  entering  the  valley  of  the 
Feiran,  we  found  for  the  first  time  the  manna-yielding 
shrub  tarfa.  and  a  village  of  the  Bedouins  with  some  date> 
trees  and  sheep.  There  are  great  numbers  of  these  tama- 
risk-trees in  the  valley,  and  the  manna  exudes  during  two 
months  in  the  autumn,  being  quite  an  important  article  of 
commerce.  It  is  called  in  the  Hebrew  and  Arabic,  mim 
(what):  "They  wist  not  tvhal  it  was."  This  valley  is 
called  the  ParadUc  of  the  Bedouin,  because  from  its  ex- 
treme fertility  it  will  grow  the  date  and  tamarisk  in  spite  of 
all  the  efforts  of  the  wild  man  of  the  desert,  who  for  thou- 


THE  HOLY  MOUUTAIN. 


ni 


^ttBdsef  years  has  been  allied  with  nature  in  destroying  this 
whole  peninsular  region— in  fact,  cveiy  part  of  Asia  and 
Africa  where  he  has  a  foothold.  There  is  no  question 
that  there  are  in  j'Vsia  va&t  stretches  of  country,  many 
valleys,  hills,  and  mountain-sides,  which  only  require  the 
industry  of  man  aided  by  a  little  science  to  make  use  of 
water,  the  one  ncccssaiy  thing — which  is  found  in  springs, 
rivulets,  and  supplied  by  the  rains — in  order  to  make  fertile 
again  these  desolate  wastes  with  the  terrace  gardens  and 
cultivated  valleys  of  the  olden  time.  That  these  arid  val- 
leys once  supporter!  a  dense  population,  rich  in  flocks  and 
herds,  is  a  fact  engraved  on  the  monuments  of  ancient 
Egypt,  and  with  more  certainty  stated  in  the  Bible.  Not 
far  from  the  Bedouin  village  in  the  valley  of  Feiran  we 
came  to  the  rock  to  which  Arab  tradition  points  as  the 
Rock  of  Moses.  Merc  is  a  spring.  The  valley  of  Feiran  is 
thought  to  be  Rcphidim,  the  land  of  the  Amalekites  (Ex. 
19  :  2),  this  being  the  natural  approach  from  the  sea  after 
the  three  days'  march  of  Moses,  and  the  first  r^ion  sup- 
plying an  abundance  of  water.  It  was  here  that  Moses 
.struck  the  6rst  blow  at  his  enemy  which  gave  him  final 
'possession  of  the  peninsula.  This  valley  is  not  far  from  the 
base  of  Mount  Sciba),  two  valleys  coming  into  it  from  that 
mountain.  This  prominent  granite  peak  was  for  many 
centuries  the  rival  of  Gcbcl  Musa,  in  its  claim  to  be  the  true 
Mount  Sinai,  and  its  sides  were  lined  with  convents,  the 
abodes  of  hermits,  who,  it  is  said,  were  in  such  great  num- 
bers in  front  of  their  cells  that  they  looked  like  rabbits  in 
front  of  their  holes.  Careful  investigations,  however,  set- 
,  tied  the  point  in  favor  of  Gcbcl  Musa.  At  Mount  Sinai 
there  is  abundance  of  water,  there  being  no  less  than  four 
rivulets  near  it  capable  of  fertilizing  an  extensive  plain,  and 
enough  to  irrigate  lands  for  grazing  purposes.  The  almost 
entire  absence  of  this  element  from  Mount  Serbal  and  the 
contracted  valleys  contiguous  to  it  has  established  the  weight 
of  authority  against  It.     These  are  among  the  important 


«38 


THE  UOLY  MOVNTAIff. 


reasons  whicli  have  induced  learned  observers  to  give  up 
Mount  Serbftl  and  its  immense  nest  of  mountains  as  the 
real  Mount  Sinai,  though  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Fciran  is 
near  by.     The  peaks  of  Mount  Serbal  in  their  wild  gnndcur 
are  so  sharply  defined,  without  soil  or  v^etation.  that  few 
persons  arc  able  to  climb  to  their  tops  as  they  stand,  glitter- 
ing in  the  clear  sky  of  to-day.     The  mountain  is  majesti- 
cally En^nd,  and  in  striking  contrast  with  the  soft  and  gen- 
tle scenery  of  waving  palms,  sliady  acacias  and  tamarisks 
which  skirt  the  boautiful  rill  where  wc  arc  now  seated,  the 
waters  of  which,  sparkling  and  limpid,  flow  with  a  musical 
ripple  at  our  feet.     The  Bedouins  who  live  here  arc  in  con- 
versation  with   us  while  man  and  camel  are  slaking  their 
thirst    after  a  long  and    desolate  ride  over  the  desert. 
How  welcome  the  gushing  water  of  even  a  small  rivulet  \%,^ 
only  those  know  who  have  just  travelled  over  a  weary  waste 
for  many  hours  without  it !     To-day  wc  commence  taking 
leave  of  the    network   of  granite  mounlains.    ihcir  roclq' 
glena  and  desolate  valleys,  with  few  open  spaces  to  let  us 
out.     The  scenery  as  wc  ride  along  is  enhanced  in  beauty 
by  the  light  and  clear  atmosphere,   and   the  party-colored 
rocks  reflected  in  the  noonday  sun  are  very  beautiful.     The 
climate  is  dry  and  healthy.     Man  lives  here  without  dis- 
ease to  extreme  old  age.     But  there  is  not  much  game — 
only  a  few  gazelles,  hares,  leopards,  ibexes,  porcupines,  and 
quails.     Soon  after  leaving  this  vallc)-  the  next  attraction 
is  the  ancient  inscriptions  on  the  eternal  rock,  so  long  an 
enigma.     Exhaustive  researches  of  late  have  proved  that 
they  arc  not  Hebrew  writing,  as  was  at  first  thought,  con- 
firmatory of  the  passage  through  here  of  the  chosen  people. 
They  arc  an  old  form  of  Arabic,  with  many  of  the  letters 
obsolete,  supposed  to  be  of  an  antiquity  prior  to  the  time 
of  Moses.     The  pilgrims  gaze  upon  them  in  their  ignorance 
as  one  of  the  mysterious  links  connecting  them  with  the 
great  past.     They  look  old  enough  to  have  been  written 
by  Job  with  his  iron  pen.     Arriving  in  the  sandstone  re- 


THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIX. 


*39 


gion,  we  are  wanted  of  our  approach  to  the  Red  Sea  again. 
The  transition  is  startling,  the  variegated  tints  of  the 
stone  and  the  magical  puiity  of  the  air  bringing  out  in 
great  beauty  streaks  of  white,  red,  blue,  violet,  and  yellow 
in  exquisite  combination.  We  encamped  near  the  noted 
turquoise  mines,  and  toiled  to  a  height  of  over  200  feet,  to 
be  entertained  on  reaching  them,  not  so  much  in  gathering 
the  precious  stones,  an  operation  which  requires  consider- 
able labor,  as  by  the  beautiful  rainbow  veins  of  sandstone 
in  which  they  arc  found.  It  is  here  that  Mariette  Bey  read 
the  hieroglyphics  which  give  the  history  of  the  working  of 
these  very  mines  by  Cheops  of  the  fourth  dynasty,  423; 
years  1t.C.,  and  the  Pharoah  who  constructed  the  great 
Pyramid  of  Ghizch,  near  Cairo.  There  arc  bas-reliefs  in 
these  mines  of  Ouady  Magharah  picturing  this  great  war- 
rior as  chastising  the  people  c.illed  in  that  day  On  (Bed- 
ouins), who  troubled  the  Eiuttern  frontier  of  Lower  Eg>'pt. 
Buying  a  few  specimens  of  turquoise  as  they  came  fresh 
from  the  mines,  we  gathered  some  of  the  rock  of  ages  in 
which  they  were  imbedded,  to  bring  home  with  us.  The 
next  day  the  descent  was  abrupt.  Sandstone  and  limestone 
were  mixed  in  pcculi-ir  and  fantastical  forms,  so  that  the 
imagination  could  picture  any  object  in  art  or  nature  it 
pleased  :  a  pretty  cottage,  massive  fortifications,  or  many- 
steeplcd  cathedrals  could  be  conjured  up.  Discharging  our 
Bedouins  and  camels,  we  started  on  our  eighty-mile  trip  be- 
fore daylight.  A  rain-storm,  however,  coming  on,  the  boat 
returned  to  the  same  old  Arab  saint  again.  Some  of  our 
party,  in  despair  of  getting  to  Sucr,  and  fearing  our  dwin- 
dling {Supplies  would  fall  short,  thought  it  advisable  to  go 
upon  the  desert  to  hunt  up  the  Bedouins  and  their  camels 
to  take  us  through  by  land,  I  had  no  idea  of  sharing  this 
folly,  and  advised  either  that  we  divide  our  supplies,  pack 
them  on  our  backs  and  foot  it  for  three  days — the  time 
necessary  to  go  through  the  desert,  a  weary  way  between 
us  and  the  Wells  of  Moses — or  else,  which  was  better,  to 


240  THE  HOLY  MOUNTAIN. 

stick  to  the  boat  and  take  our  chances  of  a  fair  wind.  I 
insisted  that  hunting  Bedouins  in  the  desert  was  a  chase  to 
which  I  could  not  consent  to  be  a  party.  So  I  called  for  a 
division  of  the  supplies.  This  settled  the  question,  and 
our  boat  again  sailed.  It  had  not  got  fairly  into  the  mid- 
dle of  the  Red  Sea,  before  there  was  a  perfect  calm,  and  as 
the  boat  made  no  movement  it  was  determined  to  hail  the 
first  ship  which  came  along.  Three  or  four  steamed  past, 
out  of  hailing  distance,  but  finally  a  huge  Dutch  ship  came 
near  enough  to  see  and  hear  us.  In  the  mean  time  the 
ries  had  placed  his  flag  at  half-mast,  and  all  our  guns  and 
pistols  were  in  requisition  for  firing  minute-guns  as  though 
we  were  in  distress  ;  and  though  the  whole  party  made  all 
the  noise  they  could,  the  old  ship  went  pitching  on  under 
steam  in  the  calm,  without  deigning  to  take  the  slightest 
notice,  and  not  a  living  thing  was  to  be  seen  from  either 
deck.  That  night  a  fair  wind  struck  us,  and  the  next 
morning  we  took  the  train  at  Suez  in  time  to  catch  that 
going  to  Cairo,  arriving  there  in  time  for  dinner  the  same 
night. 


£>*  ttlMfl. 


« 


i 


CHAPTER   X!X. 
TH  E    SUEZ    CANAL. 


Hittoric  aniiclpktion  «( the  Siwt  C»n*l— Th«  coniidcraiionv  ihax  dettrred  the 
ftndeni  Pharaoh,  Nccho,  and  ihe  aiDdern  Pharaoh.  Mchemet—  LcMcp*'* 
tttt  eonccptiod  of  U)«  canal— A  project  forty  yean  In  hatchlnc—Sud'a 
enthuitaiikc  acceptance  of  the  acbeme-  Itmall  come*  into  power  Mddltd^ 
with  Said's  [iled|[t«  hhiI  u  heavy  debt— Thr  «>rvt  or  forced  labor  tystem 
aad  its  abolilinn  at  the  instance  ol  England— I tmail  accepts  the  reirocc*- 
don  of  Ibe  sneel-tvaler  canal  and  lu  adjacent  land*-  Extraordinary 
claims  (or  indemnity  -Napoleon  III.  as  arbitrator  icives  a  judgment  uf 
S^.OOO^tXM  francs  ajfainsl  the  Viceroy— The  mnRniriccnt  files  on  the 
cotnpletlou of  the  csmtl— England  as*  (actor  in  the  present  statu* of  the 
Stiex  Canal. 

The  connt^rtion  of  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Red  Sea 
has  interested  thti  world  in  all  ages.  As  early  as  the  time 
of  the  great  Pharaohs  of  tht:  nineteenth  dynasty  a  canal 
connected  Lake  Timsah  ant)  the  PcluMum  branch  of  the 
Nile,  there  bcinj;  evidence  of  it  engraved  upon  the  walls  of 
the  great  banquet-hall  in  the  temple  of  Karnak  at  Thebes. 
About  650  years  before  the  Christian  era  the  Pharaoh 
Necho  attempted  the  connection,  and  after  expending  vast 
.sums  and  cauiiing  the  death  of  many  thousands  of  his  peo- 
ple he  abandoned  it,  giving  as  a  reason  that  he  had  con- 
suited  the  oracle,  which  sagely  told  him  that  if  he  pursued 
his  progressive  ideas  too  far  the  Phccnicians,  those  famous 
old  mariners,  would  be  jirecipitated  upon  him  and  swallow 
up  his  country  as  in  a  vast  maelsti^m.  His  counsellor 
added  that  Egypt  with  her  dense  population  had  originated 
her  own  prosperity,  and  was  marvellously  gifted  for  dura- 
tion, having  stood  the  .ihoclc  of  time  for  thousands  of 
years,  and  it  was  best  that  he  .ihould  turn   his  progressive 


»4« 


rS^SUE^4»A£. 


ideas  in  another  direction.  The  result  was  that  his  surplus 
enci^  was  expended  in  circumnavigating  the  continent  or 
Africa. 

These  undertakings  were  followed  by  similar  schemes  of 
the  Persians,  Greeks,  Romans,  and  Arabians,  all  being 
limited  to  the  connection  of  the  Nile  with  the  bas.in  of  the 
Red  Sea,  to  facilitate  the  traffic  between  Egypt  and  Arabia. 
In  supplying  the  only  requirements  of  the  age  in  this  simple 
manner  they  opened  a  navigable  route  between  the  seas. 
That  which  antiquity  did  not  need — a  short  and  direct  com. 
rounication  —  became  a  paramount  necessity  in  the  present 
centufy.  At  an  early  day.  after  all  traces  of  former  canals 
bad  disappeared,  Mehemet  ."Mi,  an  illiterate  Greek  Mahom* 
etan,  then  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  was  besought  to  expend 
the  life  and  money  of  his  people  to  construct  a  ship  canal, 
one  commensurate  in  magnitude  with  the  enormous  naviga- 
tion  and  commerce  of  the  world.  Without  knowing  his- 
tory, but  possessed  of  strong  sense,  the  modern  Pharaoh 
adopted  the  sensible  policy  of  the  old  one,  and  he  too  con- 
sulted the  oracle,  which  informed  him  th.it  it  was  best  not 
to  precipitate  the  barbarians  upon  him  by  any  such  act  of 
folly,  and  he  wisely  resisted  the  speculators  and  Consuls- 
General.  Time  passed,  and  S^id  Pacha,  when  a  prince, 
cjime  under  the  magic  influence  of  De  Lesseps  and  was 
beguiled  into  promising  him  the  authority  to  connect  the 
two  seas  through  the  Isthmus  of  Suez — a  promise  which 
was  faithfully  kept  upon  ascending  the  throne.  M.  dc 
Lesseps  has  received  great  credit  for  his  astute  diplomacy 
in  forcing  the  Egyptian  to  violate  a  sacred  tradition  of  his 
family,  and  still  more  for  carrying  it  through  to  a  successful 
result  in  defiance  of  the  powerful  influence  of  England. 
Dc  Lesseps,  coming  to  Egypt  in  1831  as  an  .^ttach^  of  the 
consulate  of  France,  studied  the  scheme,  and  satisfied  of 
its  practicability,  he  soon  met  with  Linant  Bey,  a  distin- 
guished French  engineer,  then  residing  in  Egypt.  The 
latter,  through   many    years    of   reconnoissance,  wax  pre- 


TUB  SUEZ  CANAL. 


'« 


pared  to  demonstrate  that  the  two  seas  were  oit  the  same 
level,  and  that  there  was  no  difficulty  in  cutting  through 
the  sands  of  the  desert.  This  settled  it  in  the  mind  of  the 
young  diplomat  that  he  had  a  theme  worthy  of  profound 
consideration.  Laboring  for  nearly  forty  years,  his  en- 
thusiastic  advocacy  won  the  support  of  Napoleon  and  his 
government,  the  sympathy  of  scientific  men,  and  the 
promises  of  the  capitalists  of  the  world.  It  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that,  witnessing  the  fulfilment  of  his  prodig- 
ious work,  he  should  come  to  consider  it  as  his  individual 
property,  and  set  himself  up  as  a  dictator,  and  to  dispute 
with  nations  any  interference  with  hi^  vested  rights.  The 
monuments  of  Egypt  declare  the  isthmus  to  have  been 
always  the  highway  to  Asia,  the  larger  area  of  which  was 
lakes  separated  by  strips  of  land,  ujjon  which  were  famous 
fortifications  during  the  reigns  of  the  Pharaohs  of  the 
eighteenth  and  nineteenth  dynasties.  Near  whore  Port 
Said  is  now  .situated,  at  the  mouth  of  the  canal  on  a  small 
island  at  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Mcnzalch,  is  the  track  of 
the  great  road  over  which  all  the  travel,  traflic,  and  mili- 
tary expeditions  entered  Eg>'pt  in  passing  the  narrow  nock 
of  land  lying  between  the  Serboiii.-in  Lake  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean. It  will  he  recollected  that  it  is  over  this  strip  of  land 
that  Brugsch  Bey  thinks  the  Israelites  made  their  successful 
journey  when  the  hosts  of  Pharaoh  were  overwhelmed  by 
the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  distance  across  the 
isthmus  is  one  hundred  miles,  and  the  immense  basins  of 
the  numerous  lakes  saved  much  labor  in  cutting,  those 
known  as  the  Bitter  Lakes  being  24  feet  below  the  sea. 
With  the  exception  of  two  heights,  one  of  which.  El  Gisr, 
is  53  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  live  miles  wide, 
requiring  an  excavation  of  18,767,000  cubic  yards,  and 
another  hill  of  40,000  cubic  yards,  there  was  no  obstacle  in 
the  shape  of  great  elevations.  Some  soft  limestone,  shells. 
and  crocodile  teeth  were  excavated,  but  the  cutting  was 
mostly  through  sand.     As  it  is  sunk  to  the  depth  of  36  feet. 


*44 


TUB  SUEZ  CA/TAL. 


the  breadth  of  surface  varies  from  $0  to  ijo  >-ard«,  and  the 
width  at  the  bottom  24  yards.  There  was  a  basin  of  570 
acres,  a  prodigious  work,  excavated  36  feet  deep,  for  the 
harbor  of  Port  Said.  The  estimate  of  M.  de  Lesseps  was 
that  the  cost  would  be  20o,oOO,OCX3  francs  ;  in  this  he  was 
greatly  mistaken.  Failing  in  the  estimate  at  the  outset,  he 
certainly  was  equal  to  the  emergenc>'  in  deviling  ways  and 
means  to  raise  not  only  the  amount  originally  proposed, 
but  the  many  millions  besides  that  the  canal  required  for 
its  completion — in  the  aggregate  over  450,000,000  fmncs. 
By  this  success  he  added  to  his  reputation  as  a  diplomat 
wonderful  ability  as  a  financier.  \VIien  Said  granted  the 
concession  the  canal  was  to  be  excavated  by  an  organized 
company,  four  fifths  of  the  labor  to  be  Egypti,in.  Kgj'pt 
was  not  to  contribute  any  money,  but  to  receive  fifteen  per 
cent  of  the  net  profits.  Subsequently  there  was  a  further 
concession  of  the  right  to  cut  a  sweet-water  canal  from  the 
Nile  to  Ismailia,  and  branches  to  Suex  and  Fort  Said,  and 
the  land  bordering  it  becoming  fertile  by  irrigation  was  to 
belong  to  the  company.  These  concessions  were  for 
ninety-nine  years,  at  the  end  of  which  time  everything  was 
to  revert  to  Egj'pt  upon  paying  the  value.  These  conces- 
iSions,  like  all  other  schemct  for  public  improvements  when 
yielded  to  foreigners,  were  made  nominally  subject  to  the 
approval  of  the  Sultan.  A  project  of  such  portent  as  the 
separation  of  Eg>'pt  from  the  Asiatic  possessions  of  the  Forte 
became  a  matter  of  more  serious  consideration,  and  there- 
fore great  effort  was  made  to  get  the  Imperial  sanction. 
There  was  no  question  that  in  person  and  through  hLs 
Grand  Vizier  the  Sultan  favored  the  scheme  in  principle. 
The  support  in  Constantinople  was  of  such  a  character  as 
to  wamnt  De  Lesseps  and  European  capital,  always  sen^- 
tivc.  in  embarking  in  the  scheme.  The  Viceroy,  when 
once  fully  enlisted,  became,  like  De  Lesseps.  enthusiastic, 
being  thoroughly  persuaded  that  Egypt  would  by  force  of 
circunutances  hold  the  key  of  the  worid,  aSect  the  equUib- 


THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 


»4S 


rium  of  Europe,  and  thus  play  a  grand  r6le  among  the 
powers.  The  canal  becoming  as  important  as  the  Dar- 
danelles, Egypt  must  necessarily  become  what  slie  bad  been 
in  the  past,  the  leading  |x>wcr  of  the  East.  When  De 
Lesseps  presented  hii  matured  plans  in  1854,  they  were  atj 
once  accepted,  and  Safd  professed  himself  ready  to  give 
the  labor  and.  if  necessary,  to  advance  money  to  carry  it 
on.  Fixing  the  shares  at  400.000.  at  CiQ  sterling  each,  it 
was  found  difficult  to  dispose  of  them  all  so  as  to  obtain 
the  requisite  amount  of  capital.  SaTd  was  only  too  willing 
to  subscribe  for  177.662  shares  of  the  company,  particu. 
larly  as  he  had  only  to  give  the  bonds  of  Eg>'pt  in  pay- 
ment. These  liberal  negotiations,  made  in  1S60,  were  of 
great  importance,  and  the  work  begun  in  1858  was  push(^d 
with  great  vigor,  not  only  on  the  isthmus  but  on  the 
sweet-water  canal  which  connected  it  with  the  Nile.  SaTd 
Pacha  died  in  1865,  and  left  as  a  legac>-  to  Ismail  not  only 
vast  complications,  but  a  debt  of  ;£8,ooo.ooo.  most  of  it 
arising  from  this  canal.  This  was  a  crisis  in  the  interests 
of  the  canal,  and  the  new  Viceroy,  a  liberal  and  progressive 
prince  like  his  predecessor,  was  anxious  to  be  noted  as  one 
of  the  founders  of  so  great  a  work,  and  he  too  became  a 
willing  instrument  in  furthering  the  plans  of  Dc  Lcsseps. 
The  canal  had  progressed  so  far  that  machincr>-  became 
necessary  to  continue  excavations,  besides  there  was  the 
labor  question  to  meet.  This  was  easily  disposed  of.  and 
the  happy  expedient  of  a  grievance  presented  itself.  The 
fellaheen,  who  hated  the  work,  for  it  did  not  compensate 
them,  were  driven  in  hordes  from  their  rural  homes  under 
the  corvAc  (forced  labor)  system  ;  change  of  diet  and  climate 
brought  on  disease,  and  thousands  perished  in  the  sands  of 
the  desert.  England,  always  hostile,  saw  in  this  tre.itnient 
of  the  felLih  an  outrage  upon  humanity,  and  protected  to 
the  Sultan,  who  really  ivas  in  no  way  concerned,  and  cared 
little  to  put  3  stop  to  the  practice :  but  other  considera- 
tions, 90  often  made  influential  in  the  East,  probably  had 


nfi 


THR  SUEZ  CAtfAU 


their  effect.  An  order  came  to  Egj-pt  ^nin«t  this  forced 
labor  system,  and  the  dredges  of  the  company  went  at  once 
into  successful  operation.  Ismail,  appreciating  the  extraor- 
dinary grant  already  made  to  the  company  to  cut  the 
swcct-water  canal,  and  Said's  cession  of  over  a  hundred 
miles  of  desert  land  on  each  side  of  it,  which  must  become 
fertile,  in  addition  to  the  many  rights  which  in  his  igno- 
rance he  had  conferred,  became  at  an  early  moment  alive  to 
the  vast  political  and  financial  questions  growing  out  of  this 
immense  tract  of  his  country  in  the  power  of  the  foreigner. 
io  he  agreed  to  the  retrocession  of  the  swcct-water  canal 
ind  the  fertilised  lands,  promising  to  complete  the  canal 
™d  to  leave  many  of  the  rights  in  the  water  and  isolated 
spots  of  land  to  the  company.  These  negotiations  were  no 
sooner  arranged  than  indemnity  cLiims  and  demands  unex- 
pected and  unheard  of  connected  with  this  and  other  con* 
cessions  were  brought  to  the  consideration  of  Ismail. 
Startled  at  their  dimensions  and  believing  them  unjust,  he 
protested  and  refused  to  accede  to  them.  There  were 
several  important  matters  pending  before  the  Sultan  at  this 
time  in  which  Ismail  felt  a  deep  interest :  among  other 
things  he  was  desirous  of  the  approval  of  a  large  loan  ;  the 
title  of  Khedive,  which  he  had  set  his  heart  upon  ;  and 
the  firman  fixing  in  his  own  family  the  right  of  descent. 
These  induced  him  to  moderate  his  tone  and  listen  to  the 
appointment  of  his  much-attached  friend,  Louis  Napoleon, 
as  an  arbitrator.  The  business  had  not  proceeded  far  be- 
fore Ismail  renlixed  that  a  groat  calamity  had  befallen  him. 
Upon  the  ground  that  he  had  deprived  the  company  of  the 
forced  labor  by  order  of  the  Sultan,  that  he  had  secured  the 
retrocession  of  the  canal  and  the  land  bordering  it,  and  that 
a  compensation  was  due  for  the  work  of  the  company  upon 
a  portion  of  the  canal,  his  great  friend  Napoleon  mulcted 
him  in  the  round  sum  of  84,000.000  francs.  Without  going 
into  circumstantial  detail,  such  were  the  reasons  assigned 
for  this  enormous  extortion.     A  small  portion  of  the  claim 


TUB  SUEZ  CANAL. 


^M 


was  probably  just,  but  the  rest  was  manufactured  to  meet 
immediate  demands,  and  finally  enabled  De  Lcsseps  to 
consummate  the  magnificent  work  of  his  life.  But  this  \s, 
only  one  of  the  many  evidences  of  the  so-called  humane 
policy  meted  out  to  Ismail  by  the  enlightened  nations  of 
Europe.  This  is  part  of  the  sum  of  ^i6.ooo.ooowhich  Mr. 
Cave  in  his  report  states  was  expended  for  the  public  im- 
provement of  the  country,  and  for  which  Ismail  had  given 
the  bonds  of  Eg>'pt. 

Notwithstanding  the  oppression  to  which  Ismail,  now 
Khedive  of  Egypt,  was  subjected  by  extraordinary  exac- 
tions, that  helped  to  lay  the  foundation  of  his  ruin,  he 
opened  wide  the  door  of  Egypt  and  paid  with  a  liberal 
hand  for  the  inauguration  of  the  Suez  Canal,  which  took 
place  on  the  l6th  of  November,  1869. 

The  Empress  of  the  French,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and 
other  dignitaries  of  the  North  paid  court  to  I»mail  on  the 
occasion,  and  right  royally  did  he  diffuse  his  hospitality. 
The  magnificent  festivities,  elsewhere  referred  to  in  this 
work,  arc  authoritatively  staled  to  have  cost  no  less  than 
;C4.2OO,0O0.  or  $2r.OO0.O0O. 

The  final  success  of  the  scheme  so  greatly  anticipated 
has  surpassed  the  most  sanguine  expectations,  and  Eng- 
land, which  so  strenuously  opposed  it,  has  become  one  of 
its  chief  owners.  Owning  more  than  three  fourths  of  the 
enormous  amount  of  shipping  which  navigates  the  canal, 
she  finds  it,  vast  as  are  its  dimensions,  unequal  to  her 
necessities.  When  she  proposed  another  on  the  same 
isthmus,  M.  de  Lesscps  disputed  her  right  to  interfere  with 
his  franchise,  but  finally  agreed  to  enlarge  the  present  one 
on  such  a  scale  as  to  meet  any  contingency  that  may  arise 
in  the  future. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

THE  CLIMATE  OK  ECVPT.- 

fVcvalcni  winds— Influence  of  ihe  cooBKomioo  of  (bcMuntry  onthccllmau 
— Dncrt  oaaea  the  most  talulxioui  pftcu  of  thf  c»unlry— Cbaag<«  of 
lempcfaltire—  Range*  of  tint  in  iiinirr  and  summer — DifFerencct  b^ 
IKcen  Alexandria  and  Cairo  — Dangen  u>  (lie  invalid  ia  goin«  gp  the 
Nile — Sudden  <hanit<«  nt  nisht  and  in  the  eartj  oionitnc  -Foreign  and 
aaiive  physicianii  in  Efjrpt— Anecdote  ot  Dr.  Warren  Elcy, 

In  Egypt  the  north  wind  prcviiils  as  a  rule  from  June  to 
February,  during  the  rest  of  the  year  the  winds  are 
southerly.  The  latter  arc  of  course  land  breezes,  and,  as  in 
'all  countries,  they  arc  very  unequal  in  force.  The  narrow 
strip  of  land  which  borders  the  Nile,  hemmed  in  by  moun- 
tains, breaks  the  force  and  changes  the  direction  of  these 
winds.  They  often  rush  with  great  violence  through  the 
passes  of  the  hills,  creating  whirlwinds  which  raise  in  their 
course  great  columns  of  sand.  They  arc  called  tturest,  some- 
times kltamseen,  and  arc  very  disagreeable  at  all  seasons. 
These  land  breezes  are  also  frequent  in  winter  ;  and  as  the 
mornings  arc  seldom  without  cloud.i,  sometimes  dense 
enough  to  hide  the  sun,  they  are  keenly  felt  as  they  sweep 
down  the  valleys.  The  clouds  fly  rapidly,  even  when 
there  is  no  perceptible  wind,  and  as  a  rule  disperse  by  ten 
o'clock  with  the  rising  sun.  Clear  during  the  rest  of  the 
day,  at  sunset  the  horizon  is  filled  with  vapors,  which  give 
place  to  a  beautiful  starry  night,  followed  by  clouds  again 
at  dawn.  These  peculiar  changes  of  wind  and  cloud  have 
much  to  do  in  forming  the  winter  of  Eg)^^!.  There  is  a 
destructive  wind  which  blows  with  violence  over  the  desert 
during  summer,  and  particularly  during  the  spring  months 
of  March  and  April,  called  the  khamsecn.     It  is  terrible  in 


THE  CLIMATS  OF  EGYPT. 


»49 


its  vUitatioR,  filling  the  air  with  blasting  heat  and  with 
volumes  of  impalpable  dust  from  which  there  is  no  escape. 
It  lasts  from  two  to  three  dayx,  during  which  time  the  sun 
is  obscured,  and  gloom  almost  amounting  to  darknc^ 
comes  over  the  country.  The  Nile,  which  gives  existence 
to  Egypt,  materially  influences  its  climate.  Nature  has  so 
arranged  that  the  va«t  deserts  which  border  \ii  rich  land 
regulate  it  by  the  absorption  of  its  vapors  and  of  the  hcav)' 
rains  from  the  coast  in  the  winter,  before  they  reach  the 
rich  lands  of  the  Delta.  This  is  a  wise  provision,  as  the 
land^  are  dependent  upon  irrigation,  and  the  rains  are  a 
calamity  when  they  come  out  of  season.  The  great  basins  of 
water  created  by  the  Suez  Canal  have  thus  far  not  increased 
the  rains  in  the  interior,  though  it  is  said  they  have 
affected  the  coast.  Nor  are  the  heavy  fogs,  so  frequent 
in  the  autumn,  any  oftcner  condensed  into  rain.  With  all 
their  immense  absorption  of  humidity,  the  dcierts  still  con- 
tinue to  have  the  same  pleasantly  coo]  temperature  and 
healthfulncss  as  in  the  days  of  ancient  Egypt.  There  is  no 
place  on  earth  so  conducive  to  longevity  as  an  oasis,  or 
Mount  Sinai  for  example,  which  stands  in  the  heart  of  an 
arid  desert.  Neither  hiis  the  desert  received  any  in- 
crease of  rain  from  the  planting  of  the  immense  forests  for 
which  Egypt  owes  so  much  to  the  beneficence  of  Ismail, 

The  maximum  of  heat  in  the  shade  in  the  Delta  of 
Lower  Egypt  during  summer  is  gj",  in  Upper  Egypt  100°  ; 
at  Cairo  it  is  sometimes  104°.  In  December,  January,  and 
February  the  temperature  at  its  lowest  is  35",  in  Upper 
Egypt  40",  though  now  .iiul  then  in  the  valley  there  is 
found  a  thin  coating  of  ice.  The  highest  temperature  is 
felt  at  from  one  to  five  P.M.,  and  the  lowest  two  hours  be- 
fore sunrise.  The  mean  temperature  at  Cairo  is  55*  F.  in 
winter.  So"  in  spring,  and  89°  in  summer  and  autumn.  At 
Alexandria  it  is  cooler  in  summer,  but  the  heat  is  more  op- 
pressive from  its  humidity,  and  it  is  also  warmer  in  winter  ; 
but  the  continuous  rains  make  the  climate  of  Alexandria 


aso 


TUB  CLIUATE  OF  MGYPT. 


more  unpleasant  tlian   that  of  Cairo.      The  thermometer 
rarely  goes  below  50'*  in  winter,  but  the  cold  is  felt  more 
uncomfortably  than  when  the  temperature  is  much   lower 
in   northern   latitudes.     Though   it   is  called  hot  30  miles 
from  the  coast,  and  undoubtedly  is  so  at  times  during  the 
day,  if  you  seek  the  shade  suddenly  the  chances  arc  that 
you  arc  chilled,  and  sickness  often  follows.     Tlic  nights 
and  mornings  arc  ver>-  cold,  and  those  afflicted  with  rheu- 
matism and  pulmonary   afTecttons  sutler  from   the  sudden 
changes.     Travellers  go  to   Egj-pt    in    October  when    the 
Etesian  is  the  prevailing  wind,  but  sometimes  it  changes 
to  the  south,  and  rushing  through  the  passes  and  over  the 
deserts  it   brings  with   it  cold   that  ts  felt   intensely.     At- 
tracted   by  the  country's   biblical   history  and  wonderful 
ruins,  numbers  go  to  Egypt  on  that  account  alone  ;  but 
many  also  seek  there  a  hospitable  climate.     As   the  climate 
is  more  genial  in  the  south  than  at  Cairo  and  Alexandria, 
and  the  historic  ruins  arc  so  attractive,  invalids  always  go 
up  the  Nile,     Those  who  can  aflTord  it  and  have  the  time  to 
Sparc  take  the  luxuriously  fitted  smaller  boat  called   the 
diahbeeyah.     There    is    no    arrangement    more    perfectly 
devised   to   expose    delicate    people,    particularly    in    the 
night  and  early  morning,  to  the  sudden  changes  of  tern, 
pcraturc.     Egypt  is  not  like   Florida,  where  the  days  and 
nights  are  generally  of  nearly  equal  warmth.     That  which 
is  said  of  the  diahbeeyah   applies  to  the    steamer.     The 
latter  is  preferable  simply   because   the   voyage    by   it  is 
shorter,  and  the  return  to  the  comforts  of  a  hotel  at  Cairo 
earlier.     For  pleasure-seekers  who  arc  not  invalids  there  is 
no  more  delightful  trip  on  earth  than  up  the  Nile.     There 
is  no  day  which  is  not  filled  with   interest,  but   under  the 
best  conditions  people  often   return   with   severe  colds  or 
other  ailments.     Acquainted  with    all  the  best    southern 
climates  tn  the  world,  I  do   not  think   there  is  any  that   is 
comparable  with  that  of  Florida.     There  .ire  many  foreign 
physicians  in   Egypt  of  ability  and  experience,  and  the 


THE  CUM  ATS  OF  EGYPT. 


35' 


Arabs  have  a  number  of  their  own  educated  in  Europe  and 
many  trained  at  the  medical  school  at  Cairo.  The  Arab 
doctor  (hakeem)  as  a  rule  bows  to  the  Mahometan  idea  of  a 
modicum  of  medicine  and  a  large  reliance  upon  Allah.  It 
is  rarely  that  Arab  physicians  are  willing  to  brave  public 
opinion  and  act  according  to  their  European  training.  A 
remarkable  illuntration  of  this  took  place  a  few  years  ago  at 
Cairo.  Kassim  Pacha,  then  Minister  of  War,  had  an  at- 
tack  of  strangulated  hernia,  and  woa  attended  by  a  large 
number  of  prominent  Arab  doctors,  who  permitted  the 
malady  to  progress  until  the  patient's  life  was  in  serious 
danger,  only  giving  such  remedies  as  the  Pacha  chose  to 
take,  and  neglecting  to  prescribe  those  so  commonly  used 
in  extreme  cases  in  Europe  and  America.  They  linally  be- 
lieved a  surgical  operation  necessar>',  which  in  the  patient's 
condition  was  almost  certain  death.  Just  at  this  crisis  Dr. 
Warren,  an  American,  who  had  recently  come  to  Egypt, 
appeared  upon  the  scene,  whither  he  had  been  invited  by 
General  Stone.  It  so  happened  that  Stone  came  from  the 
Khedive,  who  was  solicitous  for  his  minister,  at  the  instant 
th:it  Warren  had  promised,  if  any  one  would  administer  chlo- 
roform, to  afford  immediate  relief.  The  Arabs  objected  to 
both  chloroform  and  the  manipulation,  declaring  it  would 
cause  a  collapse.  The  Pacha  hearing  Stone  mention  the 
Khedive,  imagined  it  was  the  wish  of  his  master  that  he 
should  submit  to  the  treatment  of  Warren,  and  at  once 
consented.  A  French  doctor  present  agreed  to  give  the 
chloroform  without  being  held  responsible.  Upon  this  the 
Arab  cavalcade  solemnly  folded  their  arms  and  silently  stole 
away,  leaving  the  doctor  master  of  the  situation.  A  few 
minutes  of  dexterous  work  and  the  life  of  the  I'acha  was 
saved,  This  was  the  signal  for  a  general  ""  inshallah" 
(thank  Allah)  throughout  Cairo.  The  grateful  Khedive 
made  the  doctor  a  Bey,  and  since  then  Tewfik  has  sent  him 
a  high  decoration. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 
THE  FUTURE  OK  tOYPT. 


Eogliih  policy  in  Egypt — Eicuie  for  rvulalnK  her  anny  ihefc — Enclaaii 
mponilblc— Soudao  and  eqiutiuilal  rcglont-  Mchemet  Aticonqucntbc 
SoudKn — Ceoirsl  AliUa&ndtUTe-hiuiwrt—Tbe  bloody  Ii*il(ir  Ihcslnvc- 
■ndcr  and  ltuurb«»h— The  touch  of  infamy  by  Abbu  Pacba — Policy  of 
Satd  Pacha—Efloit  of  limiiil  lo  txtend  hii  empire — Baker  appoimed 
Governor  o(  the  Dark  Rcglo a— Chinese  Gordon  appoiniol — Explura- 
tlooa  of  Enilmli  and  American  luff-ofllcert — Elephant*  introduced'- 
Cordon  (cBiK'>*^'^'*PP°'"'"' "'''>  cxiraordlnary  potrerc— The  Soudan 
In  debt  and  boundarie*  diminUhed— Gordon  retire*  again— Money 
tegillmaiely  expended  ~  Rich  land*  and  unioudied  irea*urfe»  — Untold 
poulblllilc*  lor  commcrco  Va»t  acre*  (or  (otioo  and  can*— Enfland't 
Oppoil unity  and  Egypt's  hope- -Assouan  and  Phil.-i;  the  ancient  bouodary- 
line  ol  Egypt— The  camel  and  hJKCarri-lng  power— The  Alhars  River  und 
lu  wonderful  work — The  lovrn  o(  Catialla — Railroiid  ■chemc  of 
Khedive — Grcateal  Bchemc  of  iDOdcrn  litnea^Tecming  millions  of "  Lei 
Doir  In  negrcs" — Abandonment  of  Soudan—WUd  pandeoioaium  «( 
tliive-huniers— Ismail  only  nmn  to  govern— Ismail  greal  loss  to  Efiypt— 
TewCk  England's  inol  -Humiliating  position— England  rcfnsG*  "to 
carry  her  own  shin  to  markc("^Enf[1and's  rtapontibilily — Khartoiun 
centre  uf  Uade — Title  of  Khedive— Buksheesh  and  Divine  right— K« 
tym path y  for  the  slave— Isniall  opposes  slavery— Opinion  in  letter  ef 
General  Stone— D>«organliailoa  of  Soudan  and  El  Mahdi'aapponunity— 
Ruin  of  Egypt — The  shadow  of  the  slranger— History  of  El  Mahdl— 
Birth  and  concealmral— Last  judgment  and  trumpet  blast — El  Mahdl 
lakes  advantage — Wahab.  reformer  and  puritan  of  thedef«n — El  Mahdi 
conquer*  Vusef.  Hicks  and  Kalirr  Puchiu  — Political  importance —El 
Mahdi  as  a  prriphei — Mahometan  belief  in  El  Mahdi  — Fired  the  Arab 
heart  — tJow  called  KAdirlyeh  Dervish— Hoty  men  and  myiiical  ligns — 
EK-Kh£dlve's  opinion— Influence  of  another  Mahomet— Su«i  Canal 
insecure. 

Should  England  so  shape  her  policy  aa  to  establish  atich 
a  protectorate  over  Egypt  as  would  insure  the  administra- 
tion of  just  laws  over  that  country,  there  can  be  no  quo- 


I 


itr-iruin  ii/  ih/  IMurl  amt  Ail  Ciimtt, 


1 

I 


V 


TttE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


S5S 


tion  that  the  terrible  ordeal  through  which  the  unfortunate 
land  ha3  passed  will  inure  to  its  permanent  benefit.  Aa 
the  Egyptian  people  arc  no  doubt  excited  and  discon* 
tented,  and  now  that  tliey  have  a  new  war  to  deal  with, 
England  has  a  plausible  excuse  before  the  civilized  world 
for  retaining  her  arnned  force  there  to  preserve  tranquillity. 
The  safety  of  the  Suez  Canal,  as,  dear  to  her  as  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames,  knd  her  immense  commercial  interests 
throughout  the  East,  with  many  other  political  reasons  of 
paramount  importance,  arc  considerations  which  must  in- 
duce her.  through  her  diplomacy  and  by  other  means  of  a 
peaceful  character,  to  retain  her  forces  in  the  country,  until 
by  wise  government  the  people  of  Egypt  and  of  Europe 
will  come  to  look  at  an  armed  occupation  as  a  matter  of 
necessity.  Now  that  she  is  free  from  the  entangling  alli- 
ance with  France,  and  is  entirely  responsible,  the  world 
must  await  the  quiet  settlement  of  the  question  with 
patience.  To  understand  the  problem  we  must  not  study 
Egypt  from  the  Mediterranean  to  Assouan,  650  miles 
above  Cairo,  alone.  It  is  necessary  to  look  also  into  that 
vast  region  which  fifty  years  ago  Mehemct  All  annexed  to 
Egypt,  including  several  extensive  provinces  added  by  his 
uccessors,  now  called  the  Soudan,  including  the  provinces 
^  Nubia,  Dongola.  Sennaar,  Taka,  Berber,  and  Mcro«, 
and  all  the  country  extending  along  the  Blue  and  White 
Nilcs  for  great  distances  east  and  west  of  them,  and  several 
degrees  beyond  the  Equator. 

The  energetic  old  man  who  commenced  the  conquests 
discerned  the  wonderful  resources  of  Central  Africa,  and  as 
early  as  1839  visited  the  Soudan  and  tried  to  instil  into 
the  teeming  millions  there  some  idea  of  commerce  and  the 
cultivation  of  the  soil.  He  spared  no  pains  to  tr^-  and  turn 
the  trade  in  ivor>-,  ostrich  feathers,  gums,  and  spices  down 
the  Nile,  but  unfortunately  he  was  deeply  concerned  in  the 
slave  trade  also,  which  was  a  certain  though  temporary 
means  of  filling  hts  coffers.     Weakened  with  age,  he  could 


»J4 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


not  control  the  inborn  savage  instincts  of  his  officials,  who 
at  that  immense  distance  from  the  scat  of  government 
influenced  by  no  law  but  that  of  might,  took  advantage  of 
the  situation  to  turn  all  Centnl  Africa  into  one  grand 
preserve  of  slave-hunters,  with  the  government  .is  its  chief 
factor  and  supporter.  This  accursed  traffic  interrupted  in* 
tercourse,  drove  back  the  explorers  and  scientific  men  who 
were  making  the  geography  and  resources  of  the  Nile 
Valley  known  to  the  world,  and  spread  war  and  death 
throughout  the  whole  territory,  at  first  so  peaceful. 

But  little  was  done  for  many  years,  either  in  exploration 
or  commerce,  and  there  was  no  thought  but  of  the  slave- 
trade  and  the  kourbash  which  left  a  bloody  trail  through 
Central  Africa.  One  more  touch  of  infamy  was  subse- 
quently added  to  this  benighted  region  by  Abb.os  Facha,  the 
nephew  and  successor  of  Ibrahim,  in  ordering  a  state  prison 
to  be  fixed  by  direct  command  in  the  most  poisonous  and 
deadly  locality,  in  case  Fazougli,  already  established,  did 
not  prove  pestilential  enough  ;  to  that  point  he  had  already 
taken  great  delight  in  consigning  his  political  prisoners,  with 
perfect  certainty  of  their  never  returning.  I'itfut  effort* 
were  made  by  Said  Pacha  in  person  in  1859  to  increase  the 
power  and  commerce  of  Egypt  in  Central  .Africa,  and  a 
grandiloquent  order  n-a.t  promulgated  for  all  abuses  to  stop. 
This  decree  denounced  especi.illy  the  odious  traffic  in 
slaves  ;  yet  its  effect  lasted  only  until  his  return  to  the 
lower  valley. 

Something  else  .imused  this  singular  child  of  fortune,  and 
the  Soud.in  with  its  crimes  was  foi^ottcn  in  the  receipts 
from  onerous  taxation  and  the  profits  from  a  continuation 
of  the  slave-trade.  There  was  at  the  close  of  his  reign  a 
revenue  of  ^  i ,  ;cx>,ooo  from  taxation,  and  a  large  amount 
from  the  slave-trade  which  came  as  a  legac)'  to  his  succes- 
sor. Upon  the  accession  of  Ismail  a  more  strenuous  effort 
was  made  than  at  any  other  period  to  bring  within  Egypt's 
control  the  country  beyond  the  Soudan,  extending  around 


Ttt^  FVTUR£  OF  EGYPT. 


'55 


the  headwaters  of  the  Nile,  including  the  great  lakes  which 
^bolder  the  Equator  and  several  provinces  east  and  west  of 
Nile  and  its  tributaries. 
In  order  still  further  to  illustrate  the  extent  of  Egyp- 
tian territory  and  the  slave-trade,  it  is  necessary  to  speak 
of  those  wlio  have  explored  and  governed  there,  their  ex- 
I^oits  and  their  failures,  and  the  difficulties  which  in  the 
future  need  to  be  overcome.  Sir  Samuel  Baker,  the  rc- 
ROH-ned  traveller,  who  had  done  so  much  toward  the  ex- 
ploration of  the  equatorial  region,  being  in  Egypt,  Ismail, 
pleased  with  his  good  judgment  and  experience,  appointed 
him  governor  over  the  indefinite  timitsof  the  Dark  Region, 
with  a  salary  of  $50,000  per  annum.  Accepting  the  re- 
sponsible trust,  there  was  nothing  from  "  a  tin  pan   to  a 

rstcamboat"  that  was  not  freely  given  him  with  which  to 
carry  to  a  successful  issue  the  great  enterprise  of  increasing 
the  commerce  and  extending  the  empire  of  Egypt.     After 

.several  years  of  adventure  in  that  splendid  hunting  region 
>f  the  lion,  the  clcpliant,  and  especially  the  wild  man  of  the 
Jungles.  Baker  left  this  region  gallantly  fighting  his  way 
rith  a  small  force  against  large  odds. 

He  tells  us  in  his  vcr>'  interesting  narrative  that  his 
"  well-directed  shots"  and  the  regular  force  of  Egyptian 
soldiers  he  then  h-id  with  him  were  not  sufficient  to  con- 
tinue the  fight  with  the  stave-hunters  and  their  black  crowd 
who  aided  them  with  their  sympathy.  This  distinguished 
man,  after  four  years'  service,  retired,  leaving  the  field  in 
the  eciuatorial  region  to  the  undisputed  possession  of  those 
monsters,  the  slave-dealers.  Then  it  was  that  the  "be- 
sotted people,  without  the  knowledge  of  even  a  God,"  as 
Baker  tells  us.  were  left  again  to  fetish  worship  in  their 
solitudes,  only  to  be  aroused  when  the  crack  of  the  kour- 
bash informed  them  that  they  were  under  new  masters,  and 
were  destined  on  the  instant  to  quit  their   jungles  for  more 

Ifevorcd  lands.  This  extraordinary  expedition,  planned  with 
BO  much  cost  and  as  ably  conducted  as  it  could  have  been 


>s« 


THE  FUTVJtE  OF  EGYPT. 


by  any  man.  ended  leaving  a  scene  of  the  fiercest  turbu- 
lence behind  it.  Notwithstanding  the  enormous  cxpen&e  to 
which  he  had  been  subjected,  I&mail  still  clung  to  this  idea  t 
of  equatorial  empire.  Then  another  distinguished  English- 
man, "  Chinese  Gordon,"  came,  recommended,  it  was  said, 
by  the  Prince  of  Wales.  An  American  by  the  name  of 
Ward  ot^nized  an  army  in  China  against  the  rebels  there, 
and  fought  with  great  success  and  distinction.  After  his 
death  Gordon  commanded  his  force,  and  is  represented  as 
having  been  very  much  distinguiithed  in  suppressing  the 
Tac-Ping  rebellion.  Beginning  in  1874  in  the  embryo 
empire,  Gordon  was  able  to  ascend  the  Nile  beyond  Khar- 
toum and  establish  new  forts  and  stations  there,  the 
"Sudd" — a  dense  matted  manth  .iml  great  obstruction  in 
the  river— having  been  removed  by  liyoub  Pacha,  a  native 
Egyptian,  before  his  arrival.  Gordon  had  with  him 
several  able  and  accomplished  Englishmen,  together  with 
numbers  of  scientific  and  .ible  Americans  uf  the  Egyptian 
staff,  who  were  assigned  to  his  department. 

Chiefly  ihrnugh  the  zeal,  energy,  and  courage  of  the 
Englishmen  and  Americans,  under  his  command  there  was 
opened  a  wide  field  of  exploration  and  survey  in  the  first 
yearsof  Gordon"*  control,  extending  to  the  great  Likes  on 
both  sides  of  the  Equator  and  far  to  the  east  and  west  of  the 
Nile  and  its  tributaries.  I  have  taken  occasion  elsewhere  in 
this  work  to  speak  of  the  officers  who  served  in  the-  Dark 
Continent,  and  who,  necessarily  left  to  their  own  discretion 
and  intelligence,  penetrated  into  the  deserts  and  jungles  of 
Central  Africa,  In  these  immense  solitudes  they  lived  for 
months  without  orders,  guides,  or  advice  from  any  quarter. 
Directed  entirely  by  their  compasses  and  their  own  good 
judgment,  the)'  worked  amid  savages  and,  worse  still,  the 
deadly  malaria.  The  wonderful  services  of  these  devoted 
men  in  that  hidden  region,  which  they  explored  and 
mapped,  have  been  supervised  and  in  part  published  by 
General  Stone,  late  chief  of  staff  at  Cairo.     Gordon,  failing 


I 


THE  FUTURE.   OF  EGYPT. 


»S7 


to  carry  out  tlie  designs  of  the  Khedive  or  to  equal  his  own 
Sxpectations  in  the  first  years  of  his  service,  demanded  in 
'1876  extraordinary  powers,  and  again  returned  to  strive  for 
the  coveted  prize.  His  plenary  power  virtually  removed 
him  from  under  the  authority  of  the  Khedive,  with  a  sort 
m(  quasi  support  of  England.  It  wa^  said  at  the  time  that 
the  advice  to  put  him  there  was  equivalent  to  a  command. 
The  whole  Soudan  and  the  country  beyond  the  Equator 
was  given  him  to  rule,  with  extraordinary  powers.  In  a 
word,  thi-t  whole  region  was  placed  under  him  in  absolute 
^control  ;  he  was  independent  alike  in  civil,  military,  and 
<  financial  government,  there  being  no  interference  from 
Cairo  even  in  matters  involving  the  disposal  of  life.  The 
Khedive  disliked  granting  this  power  over  such  an  immense 
territory,  but  he  was  pressed  at  the  time  by  his  creditors 
and  feared  to  antagonize  the  anti-slavery  feeling  which 
Gordon  was  supposed  to  represent.  It  was  said  o(  Gordon 
that  he  would  enter  the  Dark  Continent  "  with  the  sword 
in  one  hand  and  the  Bible  in  the  other,"  and  this  pica  in- 
duccd  Ismail  to  bow  to  fate,  and  convinced  that  it  was  the 
desire  of  England  to  send  Gordon  there,  did  so  with  an 
"  inshallah"  (God  willing)  to  car%-e  out  his  new  empire. 

It  is  well  to  state  that  in  former  times  the  wild  elephants 
of  Africa  were  tamed  and  utilized.  And  in  order  to  a-ssist 
Gordon  in  passing  through  the  jungles  and  marshes  of 
Central  Africa,  Stone  Pacha  interested  the  Khedive  in  the 
importation  from  India  of  six  tame  elephants,  which.  It  was 
said,  could  be  used  to  domesticate  the  savage  animals. 
Upon  their  arrival  they  were  forwarded  to  Gordon  as  a 
means  wherewith  to  experiment  with  the  numerous  herds 
found  wild  in  the  interior.  The  result  of  their  visit  to 
their  savage  fellows  1  have  never  learned. 

Gordon  Pacha  entered  the  Soudan  with  great  hopes. 
Holding  a  power  greater  than  any  official  who  had  ever 
preceded  him,  with  ample  means  at  his  command,  the 
whole  resources  of  the  equatorial  region  to  draw  upon,  and 


.58 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


with  no  one  to  question  him,  much  was  anticipated  from 
his  government.  Upon  talcing  command  he  found  the 
country  not  only  self-supporting,  but  paying  into  the  Egyp- 
tian treasury  over  half  a  million  dollars  per  annum,  besides 
carrying  on  a  large  commerce  with  Lower  Egypt  amount- 
ing to  several  millions  more.  After  three  years'  experience 
Eg>-pt  was  surprised  to  hear  that  Gordon  Pacha  had  deter- 
mined to  abandon  its  vast  possessions.  And  when  his  chief 
reason  was  announced,  the  Khedive  was  startled  to  learn 
that  it  was  because  he  had  not  money  enough  to  carry  on 
his  government.  The  question  wasaitkcd  what  has  become 
of  the  fabulous  sums  which,  judging  by  the  past,  the 
Soudan  must  have  yielded  ?  Why  was  it  that  under  Gor- 
don's administration  the  Soudan  was  $1,500,000  in  debt  ? 
In  lamenting  the  deficit  of  1879.  the  year  in  which  he  pro- 
posed to  take  his  leave,  after  stating  that  the  deficiency 
would  amount  to  $850,000,  he  innocently  asked  the  ques- 
tion. Where  is  the  money  to  come  from  ?  Unfortunately 
the  an.swcr  given  was  that  he  had  broken  up  the  ivory  and 
ostrich -feather  trade,  and  that  the  virtual  abandonment  of 
Darfour  and  the  Bahr-cI-Ghaxcl,  which  had  previously 
yielded  considerable  revenue,  with  the  general  disorder  of 
his  whole  command  and  his  extraordinary  expenditures, 
had  destroyed  all  hope  of  securing  the  money  from  any 
source.  It  is  proper  to  state  that  this  money  was  legiti- 
matcly  spent  in  the  Soudan  in  carrying  out  his  policy.  A 
letter  from  Egypt  written  at  this  time  by  one  high  in 
authority  says :  "Gordon's  service  in  the  Soudan  was  an 
entire  failure.  It  needed  a  great  governor,  but  with  all  his 
immense  power  and  resources  he  was  unequal  to  it.  Gor- 
don found  the  Soudan  out  of  debt  and  with  a  surplus  in  the 
treasury  ;  he  left  it  encumbered  by  a  heavy  debt  with 
diminished  boundaries." 

It  is  thus  that  another  renowned  explorer  was  compelled 
to  leave  this  part  of  Africa  by  the  slave- traders,  in  this  in- 


TtlE  FUTUJte  OF  EGYPT. 


»59 


Stance  turning  his  back  upon  acquisitions  of  Egypt,  made 
before  he  went  there. 

The  situation  on  the  return  of  Gordon  was  th;it  Egypt 
had  lost  control  of  Darfour  and  the  greater  part  q\  the 
White  Nile  and  the  river  region  of  the  llahr-cI-Gharel, 
nominally  controlling  Taka.  Sennaar,  and  Kardofan.  Her 
other  posse&sion^i  are  Souakim  and  MusM>wah  on  the  Red 
Sea,  Zcila  and  Bcrbcra  on  the  Gulf  of  Aden,  and  much  of 
the  coast  of  the  Sommali,  with  the  province  of  Harrar 
taken  from  them,  and  Bogos  and  Gallibat  on  the  frontier 
of  Aby&sinia.  These  well-intentioned  efforts  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Khedive,  though  ending  in  discomfiture, 
succeeded,  through  the  energy  and  ability  of  the  staff  of 
Americans  and  Englishmen,  and  in  many  instances  of  the 
native  ofnccrc,  in  opening  much  of  the  equatorial  region,  and 
of  the  higher  Nile  and  its  tributaries.  The  fact  has  been 
demonstrated  that  there  arc  vast  tracts  of  rich  land.1  filled 
with  untouched  treasures  lying  fallow  and  covered  with 
millions  of  human  beings  who  can  easily  be  brought,  with 
capital  and  a  vigorous  government,  under  the  influence  of 
that  higher  Western  civilization  in  which  it  is  our  privilege 
to  live.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  five  million  acres  of 
arable  land  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile  extending  from  the 
Mediterranean  to  Assouan — much  of  that  used  by  the 
ancients  having  become  desert.  Some  of  that  has  been  re- 
claimed,  and  there  is  no  difficulty,  with  modem  facilities 
and  by  means  of  canals,  in  reclaiming  all  that  in  former 
times  was  cultivated  and  even  vast  tracts  besides.  But  that 
to  which  particular  attention  is  now  called  is  the  extensive 
region  beyond  the  borders  of  Egypt  proper^thosc  prov> 
inces  over  which  there  has  been  a  semi-military  government 
claimed  by  Egypt  through  conquest  and  exploration,  and 
of  which  there  are  now  about  two  hundred  thousand  acres 
partially  cultivated  in  doora,  com,  and  vegetables.  With- 
out  exaggeration  there  have  been  explored  over  a  hundred 


36D 


TUB  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


million  acres  of  fertile  lands  inhabited  by  great  numbers  of 
people  who  at  one  time  professed  to  obey  the  orders  of 
Egyptian  officials  and  for  that  reason  were  called  civilized  ; 
and  innumerable  savages  under  sttll  more  uncertain  control 
who  are  called  semi -civilized.  The  whole  population  of 
this  region,  with  which  Egypt  came  in  contact,  was  kept 
under  subjection  by  military  power  alone.  In  the  many 
millions  of  acres  of  fine  land  is  not  included  much  that  is 
beyond  Gondokoro  on  the  Nile  or  in  the  equatorial  region, 
nor  that  about  Harmr  and  the  Sommali  country  bordering 
the  Red  Sea.  That  which  has  been  already  described 
opens  a  wide  field  for  the  imagination  to  survey,  of  both 
the  country  and  its  inhabitants.  The  ivory,  ostrich 
feathers,  gums,  precious  woods  and  minerals,  of  which  there 
are  untold  quantities,  add  to  its  importance.  When  it  is 
remembered  that  there  arc  at  least  ten  million  acres  of  the 
ridiest  land  on  the  Upper  Nile  and  between  it  and  its 
tributaries  where  good  cotton  and  cane  can  be  cultivated, 
and  a  population  of  docile  savages  who  can  be  made  to 
work,  it  is  well  worthy  the  profound  attention  of  the  civil> 
ized  world.  When  the  immense  quantities  of  rich  lands 
and  the  vast  population  that  live  on,  and  wander  about 
them,  arc  considered,  it  can  be  seen  what  a  mighty  future 
is  possible  for  Central  Africa,  under  a  well-directed  govern- 
ment. Eg>*p*  '*  t*"^  natural  channel  whereby  to  reach  its 
immense  resources,  but  it  is  only  a  great  power  that  can 
consummate  so  great  a  design. 

It  was  expected  that  England,  dismissing  all  questions  of 
territorial  right  and  commercial  jealousy,  and  having  in  her 
power  the  long-coveted  prize  to  which  her  policy  had  led 
her,  would  continue  her  march  toward  the  centre  of  Africa. 
Occupying  "  the  seat  of  the  Faithful  "  in  Lower  Egypt,  it 
is  an  easy  task  to  pacify  the  beasts  of  burden  who  live  there 
and  to  elevate  them  by  disseminating  education.  An 
amelioration  of  their  condition  and  religion  would  soon 
follow   a  just   administration    of   law,    and  the    Egyptian 


THE  FUTURE  OP  EGYPT. 


1<I 


people  would  joyfully  assist  with  their  labor  to  extend 
Egypt's  fertile  lands  into  the  deserts  which  border  them. 
England  has  within  her  grasp  an  empire  equal  in  magnitude 
to  that  of  the  Indies  to  civilize  and  to  add  to  the  world's 
family  of  nation^.  The  only  hope  for  Kgypt  from  the 
source  of  the  Nile  lo  its  mouth  is  in  Kngland.  If  she  rcle- 
gates  Egypt  back  to  despotism,  it  will  be  a  trebly  refined 
cruelty. 

In  the  light  of  recent  events  it  is  necessary  to  give  a 
more  detailed  account  of  the  Soudan,  its  lands,  people, 
commerce,  and  its  approaches. 

Assouan  and  Philse  were  considered  by  the  ancients  as 
the  boundary  line  of  Egypt  ;  but  in  these  latter  years,  since 
the  day  of  Mchcmet  Ali,  the  founder  of  the  present 
dynasty,  and  more  particularly  during  the  reign  of  Ismail 
Pacha,  the  boundary  of  Eg>'pt  has  been  extended  so  as  to 
include  the  equatorial  basin  in  the  south,  Darfour  and 
Wahday  on  the  west,  and  the  provinces  of  GuUibat, 
Bogos,  and  Harrar  on  the  east  :  and  it  was  even  claimed 
by  Ismail  that  he  had  the  right  to  extend  his  borders  as 
far  as  the  Juba  River  on  the  Indian  Ocean.  It  is  more 
panicularly  the  region  watered  by  the  Nile  and  its  tributa- 
ries, and  known  as  the  Soudan,  that  wc  shall  now  notice, 
vrith  only  a  casual  reference  to  more  distant  provinces  as 
of  less  importance  in  considering  the  future  of  Egypt- 
Travellers  up  the  Nile,  after  entering  the  gateway  at 
Assouan  and  Philx,  have  often  wondered,  while  observing 
the  narrow  fringe  of  soil  in  feathering  their  way  through 
the  province  of  Nubia,  with  its  scattering  date-trees  and 
impoverished  people,  how  it  could  h.ive  been  possible  for 
the  Ethiopian  empire,  whose  history  is  written  in  hiero- 
glyphics upon  its  monuments  and  those  of  Egypt,  to  have 
sustained  so  great  a  population,  and  one  of  such  power  as 
(o  conquer  Lower  Egypt,  establish  its  own  dynasty,  anJ 
carry  its  arms  into  Asia.  On  arriving  at  the  village  of 
Semn eh,  above  the  Second  Cataract  .ind  thirty-five  milca. 


i6i 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


above  Wadi>Halfa.  wc  find  what  some  Egyptologists  regard 
as  a  solution  of  the  myslcry.  This  was  a  boundary  under 
the  twelfth  dynasty  of  the  I'haraoh^,  and  a  formidable 
fortification  was  erected  here. 

Much  of  it  still  stands,  after  4000  years,  for  the  antiqua- 
rian to  marvel  at.  Mariettc  Bey  tells  us  that  near  the  vil- 
lage of  Scmneh  there  arc  some  rocks  bearing  hieroglyph- 
ic inscriptions  twenty-one  feet  above  high-water  mark. 
These  inscriptions  record  the  fact  that  during  the  reigns  of 
the  twelfth  dynasty,  forty  centuries  ago,  the  Nile  level  was 
twenty-one  feet  higher  than  it  is  tonlay.  Mow  so  great  a 
change  has  occurred  wc  do  not  know,  and  scientific  men 
have  not  been  able  to  solve  the  problem.  As  the  kings  of 
the  twelfth  dyn-iaty  accomplished  some  of  the  most  ex- 
traordinary things  ever  undertaken  by  man,  the  question 
has  been  asked.  Was  the  change  of  the  Nile  level  a 
hydrological  enterprise,  intended  to  create  a  natural 
rampart  at  the  Second  Cataract,  between  rg>-pt  and  her 
redoubtable  enemy,  by  rendering  the  river  unnavig,-ible, 
and  preventing  ships  from  descending  the  stream,  from  the 
Soudan  to  Lower  Eg>'pt  ?  On  the  other  hand,  the  ob- 
structior)  may  have  been  the  work  of  the  Ethiopians,  for 
like  reasons.  However  that  may  be,  a  study  of  the  sur- 
rounding desert.s  show.t  that  the  region  of  fertility  in  the 
time  of  higher  level  must  have  been  much  broader  than  it 
is  now.  Not  only  are  there  many  great  ruins  indicating 
that  what  is  now  desert  was  once  a  thickly  populated  coun- 
try, but  rich  depo^tits  of  alluvial  soil  are  found  in  the  midst 
of  the  sandy  wastes,  and  these  could  only  have  been  formed 
there  by  the  inundations  of  the  Nile  when  its  level  was 
much  higher  than  it  is  at  present.  The  gigantic  ruins  of 
Dakkeh  and  Abou  Simboul  are  convincing  proofs  that  once 
a  great  and  prosperous  people  lived  here.  When  the  grand 
obstruction,  natural  or  artificial,  which  thus  crossed  the 
path  of  the  Nile  imd  raised  its  level  gave  way,  we  do  not 
know.     The  event  is  unrecorded  in  histor>-,  but  ita  results 


TttE  Ft/TUJtE  OF  EGYPT. 


•fij 


are  traceable  at  Assouan,  a  hundred  milcH  below,  where 
there  arc  marks  of  a  great  dclupc  which  at  some  remote 
period  tore  away  the  soil  and  ploughed  great  gullies  in  the 
TX>cks. 

Leaving  the  miserable  h'ttle  village  of  Assouan  on  its 
sandbank,  soon  the  diminutive,  picturesque  isl.'uid  of 
Phila;  is  in  view,  its  ruined  temples  covering  its  whole  ex- 
tent. On  cither  side  of  the  river  there  arc  rock>*  hills  250 
feet  high,  with  evidences  that  here  too  the  ancients  had 
formidable  fori  J  Beat  ions.  With  the  thermometer  at  lOO*' 
and  the  eternal  ijun  glittering  upon  rock  and  ruin,  though 
it  all  looks  exceedingly  beautiful  the  impulse  is  to  move 
on,  though  going  up  the  river  is  simply  passing  out  of  one 
glowing  furnace  into  another  still  more  heated. 

The  long  line  of  poor  mud  villages  and  still  more  miser- 
able people  arc  strewed  along  the  Nile  a  distance  of  136 
miles  to  Korosko,  This  place,  in  lat.  22!"  N..  is  situated  on 
a  bed  of  sand,  a  few  mud  huts  giving  It  rank  as  a  village, 
and  its  view  is  the  long  vista  of  desert  on  the  cast  and 
west.  The  place  is  important  as  the  starting-point  in 
cutting  off  the  great  bend  in  the  river,  to  Abou  Hamcd, 
and  thence  along  the  Nile  to  Berber.  The  distance  is  230 
miles,  across  a  most  (rightful  desert,  and  there  is  but  one 
watering-place  at  four  days'  march  called  Moorad  (Bitter). 
The  water  is  found  in  an  extinct  crater  near  rocky  cliffs, 
and  is  a  mixture  of  s.ilt  and  bitter,  execrable  (or  man,  but 
drunk  by  camels.  It  is  by  means  of  the  camel  alone  that 
the  journey  can  be  effected.  Filling  himself  with  water 
before  starting,  it  lasts  him  to  this  station.  Each  camel 
carries  400  pounds,  a  part  of  which  is  water,  and  it  is  in 
this  way  that  mun  and  horse  arc  enabled  to  make  the  jour- 
ney with  him.  But  for  this  patient  animal  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  have  commerce  with  the  Soudan  except  by  the 
long,  circuitous  route  of  the  river  or  by  the  way  of  Souakim. 
in  the  summer,  as  in  the  winter,  the  thermometer  ranges, 
in  the   intense  heat,  as  high  as   115"  or   130",  and   as  the 


»64 


TUB  rvruice  of  BGrj>T. 


poisonous  l^simoom^  blast  sometimes  comes,  it  is  difficult  to 
keep  the  little  water  carried  from  evaporation.  The 
whitened  skeletons  of  camels  and  horses  maik  the  route 
and  tell  of  the  conflict  of  life  and  death  that  these  coin> 
panions  of  man  have  to  fight  in  their  march  over  the  heated 
sands  of  this  desert. 

Another  four  days'  march  over  burning  plains  must  be 
made,  and  the  traveller  is  often  deceived,  when  suffering 
with  parching  thirst,  by  the  fascinating  and  constant 
mirage.  It  happens  at  times,  in  spite  of  the  warning  of  the 
Arab  guide,  that  men  rush  into  death  in  pursuit  of  this 
phantom.  When  the  caravan  reaches  Abou  Hamed, 
another  mud  village,  it  is  enabled  once  more  to  drink  the 
delicious  water  of  the  Nile. 

Following  the  course  of  the  river  it  is  143  miles  to  Ber- 
ber. Notwithstanding  the  agreeable  f:ict  that  the  Nile  Is 
close  by,  the  extreme  heat,  and  often  the  burning  simoom, 
causes  intense  pain  and  weariness,  and  though  water  is 
poured  down  the  parched  throat,  while  it  sustains  life,  yet 
it  docs  not  slake  thirst. 

Berber  is  a  large  military  station  under  a  governor.  It  is 
a  good-sized  mud  village,  with  welUcultivatcd  gardens  of 
palm  and  lemon  trees.  In  contrast  with  the  desolation  of 
the  deserts  over  which  caravans  have  recently  crept  with 
the  slow-moving  camel,  these  gardens  filled  with  vegetation 
appear  to  the  suffering  Arab  like  Mahomet's  Paradise. 
Shaded  under  the  palm-tree  near  the  river,  his  constant  ex- 
clamation is,  "  Alham  delillah"  (Thanks  be  to  God)  for 
creating  water  whose  magical  power  converts  deserts  into 
flowery  gardens. 

Berber  has  recently  become  important,  being  on  the  Nile 
in  the  most  direct  route  of  travel  to  Khartoum,  which  is  at 
the  junction  of  the  White  and  Blue  Nile  and  the  capital 
of  the  Soudan.  It  is  30O  miles  from  Souakim  on  the  Red 
Sea,  and  the  distance  is  travelled  ift  twelve  to  fifteen  day* 
by  camels,  tlic  route  being  rough  and  scantily  supplied  with 


TUB  FUTUKE  OF  EGYPT. 


3«S 


water.  The  route  to  Berber  and  Khurtoum  from  Cairo  is 
much  the  best  by  the  way  of  the  Ked  Sea  and  Soualdm. 
It  i»  only  by  mcaiis  of  wells,  the  principal  of  which  is 
Kokrcb,  that  the  military  and  caravans  arc  enabled  to  make 
the  journey  from  Souakim  to  Berber,  and  thence  fay 
steamer  it  is  300  miles.  Twenty  miles  above  Berber  is  the 
mouth  of  the  Atbara,  the  first  river  in  1300  miles  which 
empties  into  the  Nile.  Half  way  between  Berber  and 
Khartoum  is  the  large  village  of  Shcndy  ;  other  smaller 
villages  are  along  the  river  on  both  banks,  and  scrubby 
mimosa  and  date  trees  fringe  it.  As  along  the  river  below, 
the  cultivation  i$  by  irrigation  by  means  of  the  ass^kiah 
and  the  still  slower  shadoof. 

Khartoum,  in  lat.  17''  N.,  is  at  the  end  o(  the  Nubian 
Desert ;  a  short  distance  above  it  the  fertile  lands  com. 
mencc,  and  the  equatorial  rains,  so  copious  above,  ter- 
minate. It  is  here  that  the  two  great  rivers,  the  Blue  and 
White  Nile,  unite  and  form  the  main  river,  which  ito  miles 
below  receives  immense  impetus  from  the  Atbara,  which 
tike  the  Blue  Nile  is  laden  with  the  fertilizing  alluvium  that 
is  carried  over  1500  miles  through  the  great  desert,  to 
enrich  in  its  course  the  banks  of  the  river  as  far  as  the 
Mediterranean. 

Retracing  the  route  to  the  mouth  of  the  Atbara,  it  is 
proposed  to  follow  the  course  of  that  stream  and  rapidly 
describe  the  country  bordering  it.  This  river  is  even  more 
prolific  in  rich  mud  than  its  great  competitor,  the  Blue 
Nile,  and  like  it  takes  its  rise  in  the  Abyssinian  mountains. 
The  bed  of  this  river  is  partly  dry,  and  the  water  stands  in 
great  holes  during  a  portion  of  the  year.  Like  the  other 
lat^c  branches,  it  rises  pciiodically,  nature  having  so 
ordered  that  they  all  harmonize  in  the  season  of  the  flood. 
In  the  summer,  becoming  turbulent  in  its  rapid  descent 
from  the  mountains  with  its  great  volume  of  water,  it  adds 
its  swift  current  to  the  onward  flow  of  the  main  Nile. 
Scientists  say  that  without  its  aid  there  would   not  be 


366 


THE  fUTVRK  OF  EGYPT. 


sufficient  water  and  force  to  send  the  rich  matter  so  far 
down  into  Lower  Egypt  to  perform  its  wonderful  work 
there.  A  mountain  stream  in  a  country  of  copious  rains,  it 
has  numerous  branches  in  its  long  course.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  these  streams,  particularly  the  Scttite,  and  the 
main  stream,  that  there  is  found  a  great  area  of  uncultivated 
and  fertile  land,  extending  north  and  east  to  the  river 
Ga»h  or  March  in  Abyssinia.  West  of  the  .Htream  is  the 
rich  delta  between  it  and  the  main  Nile,  and  a  large  domain 
between  it  and  the  Blue  Nile  and  its  tributaries.  It  is 
more  than  lOO  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Atbara  to 
Gos  Regeb.  the  end  of  the  desert  and  first  permanent  settle- 
ment. The  scarcity  of  w^lcr  makes  it  difficult  for  man  or 
beast  to  travel  over  this  desert  region.  With  proper  hy- 
drauhc  appliances  during  the  time  of  the  flood  it  could 
be  irrigated  nnd  its  fertile  lands  utilized.  As  it  is,  only  the 
Jalyeen  and  Shcikarian  Arabs  on  the  west  -side  and  the 
Hadendowa  Arabs  on  the  east  side,  with  their  numerous 
herds,  frequent  it.  The  Bishareen  Arabs  extend  along  it 
and  the  Nile  to  Berber  and  also  in  the  direction  of  Soua- 
kim.  The  rains  commence  in  the  mountains  of  Abyssinia 
in  the  months  of  April  .ind  Miiy  and  reach  here  in  June. 
The  river  then  becomes  a  torrent,  sweeping  through  the 
rich  and  parched  soil  ;  the  stumpy  mimosa  and  date  trees 
begin  to  bloom,  and  the  pliunn  are  soon  covered  with 
nutritious  grasses.  It  is  then  that  the  numerous  nomadic 
pastoral  Arabs  flock  to  the  rivers  with  their  thous;mds  of 
camels,  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats  for  the  rich  pasturage  which 
lies  along  their  banks  for  hundreds  of  miles.  From  the 
important  village  of  Gos  Regeb  it  is  about  lOO  miles  to  the 
village  of  Goras»6,  a  trading  station  on  the  c;truvan  road 
from  Khartoum,  the  rich  provinces  of  the  Soudan  and  Gal- 
libat,  to  Cassalla,  in  the  Province  of  Taka.  This  place  is 
the  second  in  size  and  importance  in  the  Soudan. 

Cassalla,  which  is  ;o  miles  from  Gorass£,  is  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  Abyssinian  river  Gash  or  Mareb,  is  distant 


THE  FUTUKE  OP  EGYPT, 


ibj 


3;o  miles  from  Berber,  300  from  Souakim,  about  250  fiom 
Massowah,  and  is  a  strongly  fortified  town  of  10.000  inhabi- 
tants. North  and  south  of  it  the  country  is  open  prairie. 
Under  Ismail  it  greatly  incrcaiicd  in  the  cultivation  of  doura 
and  cotton,  and  in  its  trade  in  hides,  senna,  and  gums. 
The  same  general  features  continue  about  loo  miles  to 
Tomat,  another  of  Ismail's  stations,  at  the  junction  of  the 
River  Scttitc,  which  comes  from  the  cast.  Baker,  who 
hunted  in  this  region  several  months,  represents  it  as  not 
only  rich  in  soil,  but  a  splendid  hunting-ground  for  the 
elephant,  lion,  rhinoceros,  buffalo,  giraffe,  ostrich,  and 
cat  numbers  of  birds  and  smaller  fauna.  The  nomadic 
bribes  of  Hamnn  Arabs  and  the  savage  Bas^  are  on  the 
east  side,  .and  the  powerful  tribe  of  Daibaina  Arabs  on  the 
Lwest.  About  40  miles  from  Tomat,  en  route  to  Gallibat, 
rhfch  is  140  miles  distant,  the  road  is  intersected  by  the 
great  caravan  trail,  which  passes  through  Katanf  to  Abou- 
Harrax  on  the  Blue  Nile,  a  distance  of  250  miles.  At 
^Gallibat,  which  is  on  the  Abyssinian  frontier.  Ismail  always 
kept  a  large  military  force  to  guard  against  invasion  and  to 
keep  in  fear  the  numerous  strong  Ar^b  tribes  which  frequent 
this  rich  countrj'.  It  is  (he  home  of  the  Toukrouris,  who 
migrated  from  Darfour,  and  also  of  the  remnant  of  that 
tribe  which  burned  to  death  Ism;iil  Pacha,  the  favorite  son 
of  Mehcmct  Ali,  of  whom  account  has  been  already  given, 
and  who  fled  hither,  as  this  region  was  then  in  the  territory 
tof  Abyssini^i,  to  escape  the  persecution  of  the  old  warrior 
I  who  had-  determined  upon  their  extermination.  Fifty- 
jfivc  miles  from  Gallibat  is  the  Rahad.  a  branch  of  the  Blue 
(ile,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  Dindcr,  another  branch, 
Sth  taking  a  south-westerly  course  240  miles  to  Abou- 
llarraz.  The  country  is  a  level  prairie,  covered  with  fine 
pasturage  and  thorny  bushes,  and  abounding  in  game. 
There  is  a  large  population  living  in  idleness,  who  could 
I'be  easily  brought  under  subjection  by  the  strong  arm  of 
[civilized  man.     From  Abou  Ilarraz  it  is  n8  miles  to  Khar- 


j68 


THE  FUTU/CE  OF  EGYPT. 


toum,  where  the  heated  santlH  of  the  desert  are  a)Tain  en- 
countered. 

Before  leaving  the  possessions  of  Egypt  in  ihc  eastern 
Soudan,  it  is  necessary  to  speak  of  acquisitions  of  Ismail 
»till  more  distant,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Red  Sea.  Just 
before  the  Ab>'sstni3n  \v:vc  in  [875  it  was  said  that  Ismail 
had  purchased  the  .seaport  of  Zcila,  on  the  .-Viabian  Gulf. 
Once  in  his  possession,  it  became  ^isy  to  march  a  suf- 
ficient force  to  liarrar,  a  good-sized  town  and  the  capital 
of  the  country,  and  there  depose  the  authorities,  subse- 
quently dccbring  that  the  place  was  a  part  of  Egypt  by 
right  of  conquest.  It  was  in  conjunction  with  this  move- 
ment that  Munzinger  Bey  marched  into  the  interior,  bor- 
dering Ab>'sstnia  on  the  east,  to  capture  the  noted  salt- 
mines, where  he  met  his  untimely  fate.  Both  of  these  ex- 
peditions were  a  part  of  the  policy  that  really  dictated  the 
war  with  Abyssinia,  which  the  reader  will  understand  when 
he  follows  the  writer  into  the  second  part  of  this  book. 
The  movement  upon  Harrarwas  successful.  This  province 
hu  a  docile  people  and  fertile  soil,  its  great  advantage 
being  in  its  tropical  productions,  but  particularly  in  its 
coFTcc-plant,  which  is  equal  in  every  respect  to  the  finest 
Mocha.  Eg>'pt  has  no  more  valuable  province,  ncr  one 
more  capable  of  wonderful  development,  and  if  Ismail  had 
not  been  forced  from  his  throne  by  the  "  reformer"  he 
would  have  added,  through  his  enterprise  here,  no  little  to 
aid  in  paying  Ihc  interest  of  the  bondholders. 

Coming  again  to  Khartoum,  with  the  view  of  ascending 
the  White  Nile,  or  Bahr-el-Abiad,  which  is  undoubtedly 
the  main  river,  it  is  a  happy  thought  that  at  least  in  a 
short  distance  the  "  frightful  desert  of  interminable  scorch- 
ing sand,"  u  Baker  calls  it,  will  be  left  behind  ;  but  at 
some  future  day  it  is  hoped  that  the  same  journey  m.-iy 
be  made  on  the  return  trip,  following  the  same  mighty  fiver 
which  pierces  the  sterile,  parching  desert  for  nearly  3O00 
miles  to  the  sea,   spreading  Its  feitility  on  both  sides,  with 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT 


369 


SO  much  regularity  that  they  have  been  the  uninterrupted 
home  of  man  in  all  recorded  time.  The  country  which  i«  to 
be  penctr.itcd,  §o  long  the  land  of  mystery,  is  now  well 
known.  The  pluck  and  energy  of  Baker,  Stanlcj',  Gordon, 
Long,  and  Mason  have  not  only  explored  but  have  mapped 
the  Nile  and  its  tributaries  and  the  water  system  of  the 
equatorial  basin.  Stanley  navigated  the  Victoria  Nyanza, 
and  passed  around  the  head-waters  of  the  Nile,  which  takes 
its  source  in  the  mountains  beyond  the  lake,  and  he  is  still 
developing  a  mighty  work  on  the  Congo  River ;  Mason 
and  Prout.  with  a  steamer,  which  was  with  great  diffi- 
culty carried  piecemeal  over  rapids  and  around  the  falls  of 
the  upper  Nile  to  Albert  Nyanza,  navigated  the  entire  lake  ; 
and  Long  who  first  sailed  upon  the  Victoria  Nyanza,  has 
brought  to  geographers  the  knowledge  of  Lake  ]br;)him, 
heretofore  unknown  as  one  of  the  reservoirs  of  the  Nile. 

The  White  Nile  is  navigable  from  Gondokoro  to  Khar- 
toum, 1400  miles,  running  northerly  through  a  country  of 
swamps,  marshes,  and  tangled  grasses,  with  few  trees  of 
■my  size  ;  it  winds  its  way  through  water  plants,  and  is 
sometimes  obstructed. 

This  great  river  takes  its  rise  in  the  equatorial  mountains  ; 
after  coursing  through  the  great  lakes,  at  an  elevation  of 
3700  feet  above  the  sea,  it  frequently  descends  in  rapids 
until  Tinally  it  becomes  a  navigable  stream  some  distance 
before  reaching  Gondokoro.  Its  greatest  branch,  the 
Sobat,  joins  it  on  its  eastern  side  in  lat.  9°  21',  .-ind  the 
Bahr-c1-Ghazal  on  the  west  just  below.  The  Sobat  takes 
its  rise  in  the  Galla  country,  is  well  timbered  and  very 
fertile,  but  still  in  its  greater  part  unexplored.     The  Bahr- 

Iel-Ghazal  rises  in  the  province  of  Darfour.  Both  these 
rivers  are  in  the  region  of  copious  rains,  a  country  thickly 
inhabited  and  very  fertile,  which  when  cultivated  yields 
abundantly. 
Enough  has  been  written  of  this  country,  of  its  great 
river  and  its  tributaries,  to  give  an  idea,  with  the  aid  of  a 


I 


»J0 


THB  FUTURE  OF  BGYPT. 


map,  of  the  vast  tracts  of  rich  land,  much  of  it  fertilized  by 
copious  rains,  and  the  targe  population  which  inhabit  them. 
It  will  be  seen  by  cxiimining  a  map  of  the  country  described 
(the  information  having  been  obtained  from  the  best 
authorities,  much  of  it  from  personal  intercourse  with 
numerous)  explorers,  and  a  part  of  it — that  in  Egypt  proper, 
on  the  Red  Sea,  and  in  Abyssinia— from  my  own  observa- 
tion) that  the  equatorial  basin  lies  between  lat.  S°  N.  and 
as  many  degrees  south  of  the  Equator,  and  between  20°  and 
45°  E,  The  numerous  provinces  south  of  this,  including 
the  provinces  of  Gallibat,  Bogos,  and  Harrar,  which  are 
cast  of  the  Nile,  and  those  of  Darfour  and  Wahday  west  of 
it,  lie  between  lat.  5°  and  24^°  N.  and  between  20°  and  37° 
E.  Ion. 

It  was  into  this  extensive  region  that  Ismail,  the  late 
Khedive,  inteniicd  in  his  railroad  scheme  to  penetrate,  with 
his  mind  particularly  on  "the  equatorial  region."  He 
meant  not  only  to  reap  immense  advantages  for  liis  country 
in  agriculture  and  commerce,  but  aliio  to  civilize  the  teem- 
ing millions  who  Inhabit  its  soil,  whom  along  the  whole 
line  he  distinguished  as  Lcs  Noirs  and  Les  N^gres,  the 
former  of  mixed  blood  and  in  many  instances  the  ruling 
class. 

Under  Mr.  Fowler,  of  London,  an  able  engineer,  he  had 
projectctl  a  railroad  I  lOO  miles  long,  200  miles  of  which  he 
had  completed  before  his  overthrow,  to  aid  in  his  far-reach- 
ing policy. 

As  a  part  of  his  plan,  he  had  expended  no  less  than 
$10,000,000  in  explorations  into  Central  Africa,  extending 
them  beyond  the  Equator  and  to  the  Juba  River  on  the 
Indian  Ocean.  A  portion  of  this  large  sum  was  expended 
in  his  Abyssinian  campaign,  that  country  coming  within  the 
scope  of  his  grand  enterprise. 

The  railroad,  it  was  thought,  would  soon  develop  the 
country  and  increase  the  traffic  in  cotton,  sugar,  grain, 
gums,  senna,  dates,  ebony,   skins,   ivory,   ostrich- feathers. 


THE  FUTVKB  OF  BCVPT. 


J7I 


gold,  wild  animals,  and  birds.  The  traffic  southward  would 
be  in  cotton  goods,  cutlery,  tobacco,  coffee,  beans,  rice,  and 
earthenware. 

It  matters  not  that  he  may  have  been  inspired,  as  hi» 
enemies  have  said,  by  vaulting  ambition.  His  scheme  had 
the  merit,  at  Icai-t  in  its  conception,  of  being  the  greatest 
undertaking  in  modern  times  (or  the  amelioration  of  the 
millions  of  human  beings  living  there — a  people  who.  Baker 
has  written,  "  arc  living  in  a  condition  of  such  besotted 
ignorance  that  they  have  not  a  knowledge  of  even  a  God." 
And  now  we  are  told  by  one  of  the  great  Christian  nations 
that  not  only  is  this  great  work  to  be  abandoned  and  Cen- 
tral Africa  to  be  turned  back  in  the  course  of  civilization, 
but  the  whole  equatorial  region  is  again,  unrestrained,  to 
become  a  wild  pandemonium  of  slave- huntets.  The  loss  of 
life  and  the  labor  and  the  millions  of  dollars  expended  are 
hereafter  to  be  considered  as  of  questionable  necessity  and 
very  doubtful  utility.  England  having  determined  not  to 
fulfil  the  German  saying  "  of  carrying  her  own  skin  to 
market"  makes  the  problem  a  "  tangled  web." 

It  is  well  to  recall  the  fact  that  Ismail,  the  late  Khedive, 
among  all  his  sins  made  a  strong  effort  to  elevate  his  coun- 
try and  give  it  some  vitality.  With  wonderful  power  he 
not  only  peacefully  controlled  his  ignorant  and  superstitious 
people,  but  guided  them,  against  their  will,  in  the  path  of 
progress.  Under  his  government  Lower  Egypt  became 
more  populous  in  proportion  to  its  extent  than  any  country 
in  Europe.  Increasing  in  material  wealth,  after  supplying 
her  people  with  her  own  productions  slie  had  a  lai^e  sur- 
plus for  exportation,  and  at  the  same  time  more  than 
doubled  her  importations.  It  was  unfortunate  that  this 
ruler,  the  only  one  who  had  the  sense  and  influence  to 
govern  the  country,  should  have  been  persuaded  that  it  was 
an  easy  thing  to  attain  his  greatness  by  lavish  expenditure 
from  an  already  depleted  treasury. 

It  was  unfortunate  that  in   pledging  large  sums  for  his 


ij' 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT 


grand  constructions  he  was  deceived,  by  the  applause  which 
greeted  him,  into  the  belief  that  he  was  on  the  road  to 
fame. 

It  will  be  understood  that  Khartoum  is  the  centre  of  this 
extensive  territory,  to  which  the  entire  traffic  of  the  rivers 
mentioned  concentrate^  and  all  the  routes  to  (he  Red  Sea 
and  Lower  Egypt  point.  Though  a  miserable,  sickly  place, 
it  is  of  commercial  importance,  and  must  from  its  situation 
always  continue  so. 

In  the  abandonment  of  the  Soudan,  in  accordance  with 
English  policy,  this  too  is  included  in  the  cession  of  terii- 
tofy.  Unless  events  should  change  this  determination,  it 
will  be  a  breach  of  good  faith  for  a  great  nation  to  enter  a 
country  over  the  dead  bodies  of  its  people,  professing  to  be 
a  reformer,  after  they  had  previously  by  an  arbitrary  and 
unheard-of  act  removed  its  rightful  ruler,  and  in  his  stead 
placed  one  whom  they  knew  was  weak  and  vacillating  and 
utterly  helpless  in  the  hands  of  his  Western  masters. 
Tcwfik  is  England's  tool,  and  by  no  fair  interpretation  of 
facts  can  he  be  held  responsible  for  the  misfortunes  of  his 
country,  and  especially  for  its  dismemberment  and  the  un- 
doing of^ll  that  Ismail  did  to  add  Equatorial  Africa  to 
Egypt,  and  thus  to  form  an  empire  worthy  of  transmission 
to  a  line  of  Egyptian  kings.  Rut  for  this  strong  ambition 
Tewfik  would  not  have  been  placed  in  the  humiliating  posi- 
tion he  now  occupies.  Ismail  would  not  have  impoverished 
and  emb.irras-scd  himself  by  paying  enormous  bribes  to  the 
Sultan  and  his  ministers  to  secure  the  succession  for  Tewfik 
and  his  line,  in  contravention  of  the  old  law  which  gives  it 
to  the  senior  male  descendent  of  Mehemet  Ali.  Neither 
would  he  have  involved  himself  in  bitter  quarrels  with  his 
uncle  and  brother  concerning  this  matter  of  the  succession, 
which  resulted  in  their  banishment.  The  title  of  Khedive 
would  not  have  been  thought  of  but  for  English  suggestion. 
Meaning  little  less  than  king,  its  adoption  was  simply  a  step 
toward  independent    sovereignty.      Another    huge    back' 


I 


THK  PVTVKR  Ofi  KGVfT. 


»7J 


shccsh  and  Ismail  might  have  worn   the  purple,  and  then 
the  respect   for  "divine  right"  would  of  course  have  kept 

I  him  on  the  throne.  Ismail  never  would  have  attempted  all 
these  additions  to  his  importance,  to  remain  as  a  simple 
Viceroy.  The  dignity  was  not  worth  the  enormous  sums 
he  expended  for  it. 

It  is  not  the  loss  of  domain  simply,  nur  the  breaking  up 
of  commerce  in  ivory  and  other  objecla  in  the  Soudan,  but 
it  is  the  abandonment  of  that  splendid  3>'mpathy  which  the 
great  power  has  always  shown  for  the  manacled  slave 
throughout  the  world  that  is  to  be  considered  in  estimating 
the  course  of  F.ngland  in  giving  up  Egypt'.i  authority  over 
the  Soudan,  l^owcan  i^ngland  reconcile  hercourse  in  thus 
helping  the  traffic  in  human  beings,  because  of  their  race 
and  color,  with  her  well-known  policy  in  the  last  centur)*? 
Has  she  considered  that  in  giving  up  the  Soudan  she  opens 
again  the  business  of  slave-hunting  beyond  her  reach  in  the 
jungle-s  of  Africa,  and  that  Khartoum,  the  capital  of  the 
Soudan,  on  the  withdrawal  even  of  the  despotism  of  £gypt. 
wilt  be  turned  into  a  pandemonium  of  slave-traders  busily 
pbHng  their  infamous  traffic  in  human  beings? 

Ismail  Pacha,  the  late  Khedive,  was  denounced  through- 
out Europe  as  a  dci^potic  tyrant.  In  all  his  official  acts,  at 
[east  upon  the  subject  of  slavery,  he  was  very  positive,  not 
only  in  denouncing  the  slave-trade,  but  equally  in  dealing 
with  domestic  slavery.     Having  lived  in  Egypt  for  many 

.years,  I    know   it  wiis   understood  there  that    both    were 

fabolished  in  the  Soudan.  It  is  now  asserted,  however,  that 
slavery  had  not  been  interfered  with.  The  publication  of 
the  following  letter  from  General  Stone  will  show  how  the 
Khedive  regarded  not  only  the  slave-trade,  but  also  the 

i  making  of  merchandise  out  of  human  beings  because  of 

'  their  color  in  any  case  : 

To  Ike  Editor  of  The  Suit. 
Sir;  The  newspapers  ol  New  York.  TAt  Sum  included,  published 
llhia  morning  a  portion  of  the  procbmatlon  issued  by  CenvrAl  Gordon 


»74 


THE  FUTUKF.  OF  EGYPT. 


to  the  inbabilanis  ol  the  Soudan  on  hit  recent  arrival  at  Khartoum  u 
the  FepmcmativF  of  the  Govern  mem  of  Creat  Britain,  and.  nomlnalty, 
u  reprcHntdtivc  ol  ihe  Khedive,  Tcwfik,  though  wc  alt  know  that  he 
does  not  at  all  represent  the  Khedive.  The  extract  front  CHmcral 
Cordon's  ]>rocl!unation  is  as  follows  : 

■'/dfnrrUrtHmj^rmrAaffiiuit,  and  sn  / kavt  dtciJ^  to  frrmil  ilavt  Irmfit. 
Bvtry  Mtf  iMvimg  Jtmtitie  itrvmitli  may  tnuidfr  iJktm  H>  frtfert]/  »nd  Jiifnu 
t/lJktm." 

Now  mark  well  the  above,  as  part  o!  a.  proclamation  made  bjr 
General  Gordon  on  hit  arrival  there,  fresh  from  conference  with  and 
instructions  from  the  humane  and  Chriatian  Government  ol  England. 
Then  go  back  just  ten  ytixn  and  mark  what  happened  then.  On  the 
3i«  (lay  of  rebruar}-.  1874,  Colonel  Gordon  left  Cairo  to  proceed  to 
the  Soudan  to  lake  charge  of  the  Egyptian  provinces  of  the  Equator. 
in  tliose  days  EgyP'  ""J  't*  dependencies  were  firmly  ruled  by  the 
Khedive  limail,  whom  the  English  newsiiapers  never  weary  in  calling 
tyrant  and  oppressor  when  they  desire  to  excuse  their  intervention  in 
Egypt. 

This  kingly  ruler,  Ismail,  had  invited  Colonel  Gordon  into  his  scr- 
vlee.  anil  appointed  him  Governor  of  the  provinces  ol  the  Equator, 
with  a  view  to  establishing,  under  a  firm  and  honest  hand,  regular  and 
)ust  government  in  that  remote  region  which  had  recently  been  undrr 
the  comm;ind  of  Sir  Samuel  Baker.  The  latter  had  returned  thence 
in  September.  1873. 

1  have  the  best  of  reasons  for  believing  that  the  following  formed 
pan  of  Colonel  Gordon's  written  instructions,  signed  by  the  hand  ol 
the  Khedive  Ismail,  and  which  Colonel  Cordon  carried  with  him  when, 
ten  vears  ago  today,  he  left  Cairo  as  an  Egyptian  official,  to  assume 
the  government  conAded  to  him. 

I  give  the  extract  in  the  language  in  which  it  was  written  and 
delivered  to  Colonel  Gordon  : 

MoMSiKUN  LC  CoLONti. :  Au  moment  At  voire  df  port  pour  tes  provinws 
donl  jo  voua  ai  confie  le  souvemement,  je  dMre  appelef  votre  alteniloB 
d'luie  manJ^rc  plus  i»Tilcutiiro  »ur  lea  puinta  dont  je  vans  al  d^iji  eatrttenn. 

La  province  que  von*  atlei  organiser  «t  admintsticr  est  <aa  pays  pea  connu. 
Jusque  vera  ccs  demiers  tempi  elte  a  t\i  eiploilt  par  An  avrniuriers  qui  y 
faisairnl  le  tralic  de  I'lvolre  conjolnicment  avec  cclui  dcs  esclave*.  Ainsl. 
que  voui  le  »vri,  Icur  mode  de  proc^dcr  consisiaii  k.  ctablEr  dea  comptoirs  : 
i  y  entrvienir  dea  hommes  annts.  e(  i  j  laire  avec  le*  (rlbus  environ  nan  in 
dcs  (chanRCs  lorc6s. 

Mon  gouverneinent  depuia  dtji nomhre  d'anntea,  ei  loraqoeees  proi^nccs 


THR  FUTURE  OF  SCYFT. 


«7S 


o'ttaieni  pu  lncofp«t«e*  va  GouvcnrnDcni-GtoerKl  du  SowUn.  duif  le  bat 
d«  Uk  ccawr  un  commerce  iUicii«  el  infaumain,  n  cni  devoir  Indennber  !«■ 
cfavfs  do  CM  ttublliumeni*  ci  ocbctcr  tcun  comploiii. 

Une  panic  <)c  cci  chcli  (juliu  Ic  p»)rt ,  mala  d'*uira,  toiu  rcagagemeatj 
lorinci  de  nc  point  se  livrer  au  itaGc  dcs  eictuvc*  ilem^ndbiciki  et  obiintedt^ 
i!«  moo  gauvcTncmcnt  I'autoriiaiion  d'<r  irafiqnet  sous  U  lUTVetlUnca  d«l 
luiohlH  du  Kh&rtouni  ci  *ou>  cenalnes  condilfon*.  Mais  U  snrvelUoace 
del  •utoiilAi  du  KbarlouiD  nc  pouvail  qu«  I'excicer  Iklblcfnent  >ur  ccs  con- 
trie*  (loignte*.  de  communicatjocm  difflcilct.  «t  tut  dM  buulea  i)ul,  Jutqu'ft- 
lon,  n'«V4icoi  rccoonu  aucune  loi. 

C'««l  c«i  ttit  de  chote*  qui  m'a  ameat  oalurenement  k  ttparer  le  gou- 
vcrneoicnt  de  eel  provincctidecelui  du  Khanoum.  i  Icut  doonerune  admlnlfc 
irailon  pnjpre,  et  1  decider  l«  monopole  det  ochnnire*- 

C'oc  en  cOcI  Ic  »eul  mojren  eiScace,  le  scul  piitsibie  pour  falic  nsier  am 
inSc  qui  •'c»t  (ait  Juxqu'Ji  prtccat  A  main  attnic,  qui  *'nt  excrcf  coaime  le 
bri^ndace,  et  de  loinprc  nvec  des  bubilude*  i^ularre*. 

Votre  prtmicr  soin.  done.  Monvicur  le  Colonel,  cw  de  vrlller  iirictemcnt 
1  rapplIcallDD  dc  cc  pfincipe,  car,  je  vous  le  itpilc.  pour  Ic  commencemrnt 
c'c*l  le  teul  moyen  dc  mellrc  lin  au  Italic  baibare  qui  a'czet^I  juiqu'i 
prtscDl.  Le*  babltudc*  de  brigandage  une  loll  pctduei.  le  tumroerte  llbi« 
pouna  t'excr^er  rana  danscr- 

Je  penicfjue  vous  devci  accepter  lea  services  et  utilisericlon  kur  caractirv 
et  ft  dc*  imnux  nuxqucl*  ll>  lotii  ptuprcs  ecus  qui  conscnient  i  abandonncf 
lew  metier  ct  k  voui  lulre  leur  lOuniiMion  ;  nuAit  voui  dcvci  poimuivrc  et 
appllquer  touie  la  tiKUCur  dca  loii  militaircs  i  iou«  ceux  qui,  d'une  mani£re 
ouierte  ou  dfetournte,  conllDUcraicnl  Iciu  ancien  irafic  el  ne  rotnpcraicnt 
pM  avcc  Icon  habliiidc*  de  brigandace. 

Ccui4t.  Monsieur  le  Colonel,  nc  doivcnl  irauvcr  en  vous  ni  iCmliilon  nl 
meiti-  Tout  Ic  monJe  dori  cnfio  compteodre  que  Ics  homtici.  parce  qu'ilt 
lont  d'une  coulcur  diS^icntc,  nc  constituent  pa*  iioe  motcbandlse,  ei  que  la 
«le  et  la  llbetit  *oa(  cboscs  sacrte*. 


TVamilalian. 

Colonel  :  At  the  moment  ol  your  departure  (or  llie  provinces  whose  go*- 
emment  1  have  cunRded  to  your  care.  1  detire  to  call  your  attention  In  a 
•pcclal  manner  to  ihose  poinia  on  which  1  have  ulrtuty  converted  with  you. 

The  provinces  you  are  about  lo  organiie  and  administer  ii  a  country  ■«  yet 
little  known.  Up  lo  recent  limes  it  ha*  been  wuikcd  by  advcniurcrs  (or 
Iheir  owa  advaniafc,  who  there  joined  Ihc  lode  in  ivory  to  Uic  trade  in 
•laves.  As  you  are  aware,  their  mode  of  proceeding  comlitcd  in  founding 
trading  sialions,  In  occupying  these  station*  with  armed  men.  and  then 
carrying  on  Hade  by  lone  with  the  surrounding  iilbc*. 

My  Gavcreneni  saw  fit,  some  ycuit  since,  and  bclorc  these  province* 
were  incorporated  among  those  ol  Ihc  Govcmorship-Geaefal  ol  the  Soudan, 


»7« 


THR  FVTUKh  OP  £GYPT- 


-wllh  a  Tiair  ta  put  *»  toi  to  tlticii  aod  lahoflDaa  mdc.  lo  indemaily  the 
chlefe  at  ihcae  HUbli»hm«nu  and  purchaae  ibeir  tndinit  po*l». 

Some  of  ibcH  people  lelt  ihc  counlrj  ;  but  othon,  under  ■  (omul  obUga- 
lioa  not  l«  engage  ta  tlic  alaic-tradc,  aikcil  and  obtained  fmn  mji  Covern- 
mcnl  ibe  aulhorily  to  trade  iberc  under  the  surrcillaace  of  (he  Khartotm 
anUiorities,  and  undrr  ceriain  cniHlilioiit. 

Bui  tbc  mrrelllance  of  the  Khnnoum  autboritie*  could  be  only  teetily 
excTcbed  In  thoac  remote  counlile*.  nbcre  tbc  cancnaakaiiooi  were  dilB- 
culL.  and  over  bsnd*  of  men  who  up  lo  lh«i  time  had  cMogniicd  (to  la>. 

Tbis  state  of  (hiogi  has  naturalty  led  me  lo  separate  the  j^oi'crcimeni  o( 
ibe»e  province*  Irani  thai  of  Khiutouin.  lo  give  thrm  a  local  adminUtniiofl. 
■od  O  deride  on  a  icovcmmcnl  mfnopoly  ol  trade  there. 

la  fact,  this  is  the  only  efficacioui,  the  only  po«aible  mean*  of  oiu^ag  (be 
ctiMtlow  ol  tbi*  tnffic.  oUcb.  up  to  (he  prc*en(  line,  lua  gooe  on  by  amcd 
(one,  which  hea  been  conducted  a*  a  rabbery — ihe  only  way  u>  break  np  old- 
time  haUu. 

Vour  (iisl  work.  Iben.  Colonel,  ii  lo  walch  strictly  over  the  application  of 
lbl«  principle,  tor  I  again  repeal  to  you,  i(  ■*  (he  only  means  oJ  putting  an 
citd  lo  the  barbarous  traffic  which  has  been  going  on  up  to  the  ptocnt  time. 
Th*  babtU  ol  brigsodace  once  done  aw.iy  with,  cooiincrcc  wiil  again  enjvy 
tree  scope  nilhout  daoKer. 

1  think  thai  you  should  accept  the  services  ol  such  as  consent  to  abandon 
Iheir  trade  and  make  their  RubmiMion  to  you,  and  make  u»e  of  them  accord- 
ing (o  (heir  character  and  the  work  for  wbich  Ibey  may  tic  Gl ;  but  you 
should  pursue  and  apply  at]  the  rigor  ol  military  taw  lo  such  as  In  any  man- 
ner, whether  open  or  cvasire.  miiy  continue  their  old  itaRic,  and  shall  not 
sbandoo  their  old  babiis  of  brigandage.  Such.  Colonel,  should  receive  Iram 
you  neither  remission  nor  mercy. 

Everybody  (here  mutt  be  made  (a  understand  (bat  mc-i,  simply  bM«UM 
they  are  ol  a  difleren(  color,  are  not  to  be  considered  aa  merchandise  :  and 
that  biunaji  lllc  and  liberty  are  lactcd  (hlngs. 


Such  were  llic  inaiructions  given  by  the  Moslem  Khedive  Ismail  ten 
years  ago  to  Colonel  Cordon  when  he  sent  him  to  the  provinces  of  the 
E(|u«tor.  Colonel  Gordon,  as  an  honorable  officer,  endeavored  to 
carry  out  ihese  Insinicllons,  and  In  carrying  them  out  he  received  the 
applause  of  the  whole  civilised  world.  The  world  gave  liim  credit  (or 
DOl  only  doing  the  work  of  a  ci^iliier,  but  for  having  initiated  it.  It 
is  easy  to  see  (roni  the  above  who  initiated  it. 

Now.  General  Gordon  (the  Khedive  Ismail  gave  hiro  the  rank  ol 
GeoeraJ  for  carrying  imjI  vigorously  his  above  quoted  orders)  has  again 
gene  to  the  Soudan  after  receirin);  his  powers  and  orders  from  the  hit- 
nuuie  British  Government,  and  he  is  no  doubt  carrying  out  his  orders  *>• 
faithfully  as  before.     It  may  be  dotibted,  however,  if  his  faithful  eiecu- 


TUE  FUTUKE  OF  EGYPT. 


»7J 


tion  ol  orden  which  make  him  itecUre  thai  teiu  oi  thousands  of  humaa 
beinfT*.  because  ihey  are  ol  a  diHereat  color,  are  merchandise,  by  order 
of  Queen  Victoria,  will  bring  him  as  much  applause  from  the  civilixed 
world  osdid  (he  canying  otit  ol  (he  Khedive  [smail's order  tha(  human 
beings  arc  nut  merchandise. 

Very  respecdulty,  your  most  obedient  scn-ani, 

CllAKl.ES  P.  Stmne, 
FLUSHtNO,  L.  t.,  February  ii.  Lieu  tenant-General. 

The  unnecessary  war  with  Egypt  and  the  consequent 
disorganization  of  the  government  and  the  disbanding  of 
the  army  left  the  Souditn  to  the  adventurer  CI  Mahdi, 
without  the  force  to  hold  him  to  account.  The  writer  has 
recently  said  that  "  I^gypt  had  been  rendered  helpless  by 
these  numcroun  episodes  in  her  recent  history  ;  and  that  the 
chief  actor  in  bringing  her  to  ruin,  while  dictating  her 
policy,  should  refuse,  without  an  effort,  to  .save  an  integral 
and  important  part  of  her  possessions,  is  without  doubt 
inexplicable."  Is  it  that  the  lion's  skin  is  too  short  to  be 
eked  out  by  the  fox's?  ""  The  shadow*  of  the  stranger  has 
darkened  her  history  with  spoliation  and  ruin,  and  we  see 
her  to-day  in  one  of  lho>e  crises  whicli  have  so  often  beset 
the  unfortunate  country,  in  a  desolation  which  makes  her 
the  object  of  pitiable  commiseration,  while  it  increases  our 
amazement  in  witnessing  the  extraordinary  spectacle  of  a 
great  nation,  guided  by  her  own  interests,  coldly  administer- 
ing upon  the  little  that  is  left,  without  tlie  slightest  regard 
for  its  victim." 

It  seems  to  be  true  that  England  intends  to  narrow 
Egypt  into  a  very  small  compass,  so  that  with  a  small  force 
she  can  hold  it,  and  while  giving  perfect  protection  to  it, 
by  the  aid  o(  her  navy  she  can  secure  a  safe  transit  for  her 
shipping  through  the  Suez  Canal  to  the  Indies,  and  at  the 
same  time  inclose  in  a  circle  enough  of  the  rich  lands  of  the 
Lower  Nile  to  pay  the  interest  as  it  becomes  due  to  her 
people  who  arc  holders  of  Egyptian  securities. 

The  author  will  be  excused  for  giving  some  account  of 
the  history  and  tradition  connected  with  the  name  of  El 


■J« 


THE  fUTVRE  6F  EGYPT. 


Mahdi.  and  of  the  adventurer  who  has  assumed  the  name 
and  is  now  interesting  Eg>'pt  and  the  English  in  the  Sou- 
dan. Gibbon,  vol.  vi.  pp.  280.  jSi,  ch.  I.,  says:  "The 
twelve  Imams  or  PontifTs  of  the  Persian  creed  are  All. 
Hassan,  Hussein,  and  the  lineal  descendants  of  Hussein  to 
the  ninth  generation.  Without  arms  or  treasures  or  sub- 
jects, they  successively  enjoyed  the  veneration  of  the  peo- 
ple and  provoked  the  jealousy  of  reigning  caliphs.  Their 
tombs  at  Mecca  or  Medina,  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates 
or  in  the  province  of  Chorasan,  are  sttll  visited  by  the 
devotees  of  the  sect.  The  twelfth  and  last  of  the  Imams, 
conspicuous  by  the  title  of  Mahadi  or  the  guide,  surpassed 
the  solitude  and  sanctity  of  his  predecessors.  He  concealed 
himself  in  a  cavern  near  Bagdad  ;  the  time  and  place  of  his 
death  are  unknown  ;  and  his  votaries  pretend  that  he  still 
lives  and  will  appear  before  the  day  of  judgment,  to  over- 
throw the  tyranny  of  Dejal  or  the  Antichrist." 

D'Hcrbeiot  ("  Kiblioth^quc  Oricntalc")  says  that  "this 
Mahadi  or  Mchcdi  wa.s  bom  at  Scmcuroi  225  years  after  the 
llegira,  and  when  he  was  nine  years  old  his  mother  con. 
cealed  him  in  a  cavern,  whence  he  should  come  at  the  end  of 
the  world.  The  Persian  says  that  this  Imam  will  join  Jesus 
and  unite  the  Christian  and  the  Mahometan  Law.  There 
is  in  Chaldea  a  little  place  called  Haf'n-Mahadi,  where  the 
Shiites  (the  followers  of  the  family  of  .\\\\  pretend  that  the 
M  -had!  will  appear. 

The  appearance  of  El  MahdifEl  M^iulii  in  the  minds  of  a 
large  sect  of  El  )slam  (or  subjection  to  Godj,  known  as  the 
Sliiites,  has  particular  reference  to  the  resurrection  and  the 
last  judgment.  In  the  Arabic  ]ibrar>-  at  Caiio.  founded  by 
Ismail,  late  Khedive  of  Egypt,  are  several  thousands  of 
volumes.  Among  numerous  illuminated  copies  of  the 
Koran,  written  through  the  centurici  of  its  existence,  there 
iire  many  erudite  and  copious  disquisitions  by  the  learned 
writers  of  the  diflcrent  sects,  and  many  wise  sayings  in 
them   from   the   Koran  and   tradition   in   support  of  their 


TJIB  FUTUttB  OP  BGVt'7. 


»79 


practices  nnd  superstitions,  tn  contradistinction  to  those  of 
their  rivala.  This  sect  has  it3  vagaries  recorded,  which 
confirm  the  statements  of  Gibbon  and  D'Hcrbclot.  That 
generally  understood  in  the  present  day  is  as  follows. 

It  is  from  the  lai^e  sect  known  as  the  Sunnites  (tradition) 
that  the  Shiitcfl  at  a  vcr>'  early  age  separated,  and  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Fatimitc  dynasty  soon  spread  over  all 
Pcr»a  and  a  great  part  of  Eg>'pt,  including  the  Soudan  in 
Central  Africa.  They  belie%-ed  that  Ali.  the  son-in-law  of 
Mahomet,  was  of  equal  if  not  superior  rank  to  the  Prophet. 
They  thought  him  "  the  impersonation  and  among  some  of 
the  believers  the  incarnation  of  Dignity,  and  they  further, 
believed  io  the  divine  mission  of  the  Imams  who  descended 
from  him."  El  Mahdi  (El  M£-hdi).  the  last  of  thcac  and  the 
twelfth  Imam,  is  believed  by  ihcm  not  to  hiivc  died,  but  to 
be  awaiting  in  concealment  the  coming  of  the  last  day. 

Mahomet,  who  no  doubt  got  his  idea  from  the  Christians, 
announces  in  the  Koran  the  doctrine  of  the  rcsurrecliim  and 
judgment,  and  refers  to  the  office  of  Issa  the  son  of  Mary 
upon  the  great  occasion  ;  and  where  he  has  not  satisRetl  the 
Mahometan  mind,  tradition  comes  to  his  support  and  com-, 
pleteft  the  worW  for  him.  The  tradition  as  it  is  generally 
understood  is  that  upon  the  great  day  Christ  will  appear  and 
declare  El  Islam  as  the  true  religion  of  the  world  ;  that 
with  him  will  come  El  Mahdt  "■  and  the  beast  of  the  Earth, 
while  the  peoples  Gog  and  Magog  will  burst  the  barriers  be- 
yond which  they  were  banished"  (Koran).  At  this  time 
the  trumpet  blast  of  the  angel  Asrafil  (Gabriel)  will  proclaim 
the  end  of  all  things  ;  the  first  will  kill  every  living  being  ; 
the  second  will  awaken  the  dead  ;  then  follows  the  judg- 
mcnt. 

Mahommcd  Achmct,  who  is  now  of  middle  age  and  has 
been  represented  as  dark-skinned  with  Arab  blood,  though 
he  claims  to  be  a  full-blooded  Arab  and  the  regular  male 
descendant  of  Mahomet  through  Fatima  his  daughter  and 
Ali  her  husband,  was  bom  at  Abou,  a  small   island  on  the 


z8o 


THE  FUrUkK  OF  KGYPT. 


Wliltc  Nile  about  300  miles  above  Khartoum.  It  is  well 
known  that  for  several  years  the  idea  of  the  early  coming 
of  the  last  day  has  generally  prevailed  among  Mahometans. 
Mahommed  Achmet,  aware  of  thi^  dim  belief,  noted  as  a 
fanatic  and  living  as  an  ascetic,  has,  as  it  is  said,  prepared 
himself  in  the  silence  of  his  retreat  to  answer  the  description 
which  tradition  gives  him  of  El  Mahdi  the  twelfth  Imam, 
and  circumstances  favoring  him,  he  now  proclaims  himself 
as  the  true  Kl  Mahdi,  so  long  and  so  carefully  hidden  away 
in  the  desert  sands  of  the  Soudan  of  Central  Africa. 

The  Mahometan  world  has  not  been  stirred  up  so  much 
as  now  since  the  advent  of  Abd-cl-VVahah  in  Arabia  durin): 
the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth  ceotury.  Tliis  Puritan  of 
the  desert,  who  was  no  doubt  a  reformer,  believing  in  the 
early  teachings  of  Maliomct,  determined  to  bring  back  El 
Islam  to  its  ancient  simplicity.  With  a  great  following,  after 
denouncing  the  superstitions  and  corruptions  of  those  who 
professed  his  religion,  he  commenced  by  '*  destroying  the 
tombs  of  saints,  even  those  of  Mahomet  and  Utiscn,  incul- 
cating at  the  same  time  a  higher  state  of  morals.  The  Sul> 
tan.  alarmed  at  the  progress  of  Wahab,  whose  followers 
were  designated  as  the  Wahabccs,  with  the  double  object 
of  dealing  a  heavy  blow  at  this  formidable  sect  and  at  the 
same  time,  if  possible,  destroying  his  satrap,  Mehemct  All, 
then  Governor-General  of  Egypt,  whom  he  equally  dreaded, 
ordered  Mehemet  to  march  with  his  whole  strength  against 
Ihem.  Mehemet  Ali,  unlike  his  weak  descendant,  was  a 
great  man.  Sending  his  illustrious  son  Ibrahim  against  the 
Wahabccs,  he  remained  in  Egypt  and  foiled  the  designs  of 
the  Sultan  so  carefully  planned  for  his  destruction  during  his 
absence.  The  result  of  this  movement  into  Arabia  is  well 
known  to  history.  Ibrahim  not  only  vanquished  the  Waha- 
bccs, but  began  his  brilliant  march  upon  the  Sultan  himself 
at  Constantinople,  and  was  only  arrested  by  the  inter- 
ference of  the  great  powers,  who  established  the  present 
dynasty,    whose    end    seem.'*    much    nearer   than  does   El 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EcyPT 


>8r 


Mahdi's  last  judgment.  There  is  little  question  that  in 
their  ignorance,  during  the  centuries  through  which  these 
tiBditional  sects  passed,  they  mixed  up  what  they  learned  of 
the  Saviour  with  their  own  Mahometan  belief,  and  in  this 
way  produced  this  superstition,  which  has  been  handed 
down  in  various  versions. 

The  tradition  as  to  who  El  Malidi  was  in  the  past  and 
what  15  expected  of  him  in  the  future  as  given  in  the  abovei 
statement,  is  gathered  from  history,  and  verba)  accounts 
of  intelligent  Mahometan  devotees  of  the  present  day. 
The  new  Prophet,  who  now  calls  himself  Rl  Mahdi.  the 
"  Messiah  of  the  Scriptures,"  taking  advantage  of  circum- 
stances, as  already  stated,  imposed  himself  upon  great 
numbers  of  the  credulous,  backed  by  interested  parties, 
until  his  fame  and  following  extended  to  Egypt  and  Arabia. 
Up  to  this  time  he  was  considered  a  simple  adventurer ; 
then  followed  his  victories  over  Yusef  Pacha  and  subse- 
quently those  over  Hicks  and  Uaker  I'achas.  Since  these 
victories  his  adherents  have  increased,  not  so  much  because 
of  any  religious  enthusiasm  his  followers  may  possess  as 
because  they  have  given  him  power.  Success  has  hatimore 
to  do  with  making  him  a  real  prophet  than  all  the  a-tceticism 
he  has  practised.  Then,  again,  his  prominence  and  the  fear 
that  hereafter  it  may  give  trouble  has  elevated  him  into  the 
position  of  a  political  leader,  who  now  requires  great  judg- 
ment in  handling.  His  political  importance  U  not  confined 
to  the  deserts  of  the  Soudan  and  alone  to  Egypt,  but  it  \» 
seriously  agitating  the  councils  of  England,  and  particularly 
those  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey.  The  question  is  now  asked. 
How  far  does  his  influence  extend  ?  While  some  seels  arc 
more  deeply  interested  than  others,  there  lit  an  indefinite 
but  universal  belief  in  El  Mahdi  or  Shia  (Guide)  among,  it 
is  estimated,  more  than  200.ooo,000  souls.  These  millions, 
with  few  exceptions  when  compared  with  Western  civiliza- 
tion, are  an  uneducated,  superstitiou.<t  people,  in  no  way  to 
be  considered  favorably  with  it  in  its  profoundly  religious 


28a 


THE  FUTURE  OF  EGYPT. 


or  social  charactemtics.  In  estimating  the  eScct  that  the 
.teachings  of  Kl  Mahdi  may  have  upon  this  enormous  mass 
of  human  beings,  it  must  be  con:tidcred.  that  while  appeal- 
ing to  Mahometans  throughout  the  world,  his  influence  is  yet 
confined  to  the  Arab  race,  and  it  must  depend  upon  circum- 
stances to  be  developed  hereafter  whether  it  will  go  be. 
yond  this  race  or  no.  In  forming  an  opinion  it  must  be 
under^itood  that  no  movement  can  succeed  which  rests 
solely  upon  fanaticism  as  a  religious  conviction,  but  may 
become  an  clement  in  Oriental  politics  when  combined  with 
some  dccp-scated  cause  of  excitement. 

Starting  from  a  corrupt  and  insignificant  beginning,  it 
has  fired  the  Arab  heart  precisely  as  it  did  a  few  months 
since  when  Arabt  r;iisc  the  standard  of  revolt.  It  is  really 
a  deep-seated  hatred  of  Turkish  rule,  a  government  of  cen- 
turies of  misrule  and  painful  oppression,  that  rouses  into 
activity  their  profound  sympathy.  It  matters  not  what 
sect  gives  birth  to  the  leader — all  they  care  to  know  is  that 
he  is  an  Arab  and  has  the  symbol  of  success. 

Another  important  clement  has  of  late  entered  into  the 
mind  of  the  people  of  Eg>'pt.  which  J:.  also  felt  in  the  Sou- 
dan :  it  is  the  act  of  the  rrformrr,  who  humanely  enforces 
upon  the  people  of  Eg>'pt  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet  the 
most  onerous  taxation  known,  to  pay  an  enormous  interest 
upon  bonds  which  they  honestly  believe  were  founded  in 
fraud,  and  for  which  they  never  received  one  cent  of  bene- 
fit. The  writer  four  years  ago,  after  many  years'  residence 
in  £g>'pt,  and  knowing  her  people  from  intimate  relations, 
published  the  statement  that  there  would  be  serious  dtfifi- 
culty  there  in  consequence  of  the  removal  of  Ismail  Pacha 
growing  out  of  this  very  bond  question,  and  that  England, 
France,  and  Egypt  would  come  to  grief.  This  opinion  has 
been  verified  by  subsequent  events.  Though  the  Soudan 
may  be  abandoned,  and  England  may  narrow  her  circle 
around  AsKtuan  and  the  Sues  Canal,  with  the  addition  of 


THE  FUTUKE  OF  ECYFT. 


»«j 


the  [ittoral  of  the  Red  Sea,  yet  there  will  remain  as  before 
the  same  burning  hatred,  and  trouble  will  crop  out,  eve«  if 
this  one  shall  be  smoothed  over,  which  is  not  lilcely.  The 
writer  stilt  adheres  to  the  opinion  then  expressed,  that  the 
only  hope  for  Egypt,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Nile  to  its 
source,  is  that  England  should  take  possession  and  govern 
by  her  own  laws. 

Except  what  I  have  already  given,  very  little  is  known  of 
the  antecedents  of  £1  Mahdi.  Recently  it  has  been  stated 
that  he  belongs  to  the  powerful  order  of  dervishes  known 
as  the  Kfldirlych,  This  society  has  several  colleges  in 
Cairo,  and  its  disciples  arc  scattered  over  Africa  and  Asia. 
Its  mendicants  move  in  all  Mahometan  countries,  not- 
withstanding the  Koran  denounces  the  Christian  monastic 
system.  Like  other  orders  of  dervishes,  it  has  a  vast  num- 
ber of  adherents.  It  is  through  these  dervishes  that  in> 
formation  concerning  El  Mahdi  is  spread  and  credited,  and 
as  religion  is  their  business,  it  docs  not  lose  by  repetition. 
It  comes  through  holy  men,  who  have  m>'stical  signs  and 
secrets  between  them,  and  they  traverse  regions  where 
newspapers  never  penetrate.  There  is  very  little  sympathy 
between  the  Arab  race  and  those  who  live  in  the  Indies  and 
Per»a,  or  where  the  real  Turk  lives.  There  Li  also  a  difTcr- 
ence  of  opinion  in  matters  of  belief,  and  really  the  same 
utter  ignorance  of  what  Mahometanism  means ;  and  of 
course  they  are  all  indiflercnt  to  its  dogmas.  What  little 
there  ever  was  of  pure  or  elevated  monotheistic  faith  was 
long  since  so  hopelessly  corrupted  that  what  Xhcy  call  rc< 
ligion  is  only  degrading  superstition,  and,  as  correctly  said, 
they  arc  influenced  in  their  ignorance  "  far  more  by  the 
mysterious  power  of  some  local  saint  than  they  are  by  any 
religious  doctrine."  Yet  these  considerations  are  also  an 
element  with  which  statesmen  have  to  deal. 

Ismail  Pacha  has  recently  said  that  the  great  event  in  the 
Eastern  problem  is  the  creation,  the  organization  of  a  great 


a84 


TUB  FUTURE  OF  BGVPT. 


Arab  nationality.  Notwithstanding  England's  attitude 
now,  tlic  days  of  the  Turk  are  numbered  in  moral,  material, 
and  martial  power. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  Ismail  had  in  his  mind, 
when  in  power,  the  oi^anizing  this  Arab  nationality  of 
which  he  .4pcak»,  and  ambitious  of  empire,  by  slow  and  cer- 
tain methods  he  was  la>nng  the  foundation  in  Egypt  for  the 
conHummation  of  this  design  through  this  very  nationality. 
He  was  awaie  how  degraded  and  ignorant  were  the  masses 
he  had  to  deal  with,  and  that  the  worn-out  creed  called  a  re- 
ligion is  but  a  degraded  superstition  which  must  be  re- 
formed. Eng^ed  in  building  up  the  country  and  inspiring 
industry,  he  provided  largely  for  the  education  of  the 
masses.  The  writer  in  this  work  has  demonstrated  the  prog- 
ress which  was  made  under  his  auspices,  and  the  large 
amounts  he  expended  for  that  purpose.  He  knew  that 
the  entire  people  were  but  a  degree  above  s;iv;^es,  without 
thought,  and  incapable  of  governing  themselves.  Through- 
out the  various  episodes  of  his  reign,  he  never  lost  sight  of 
one  absorbing  thought — the  education  of  the  people. 
Their  education  he  believed  would  result  in  the  amelioration 
of  their  religion,  and  thus  by  slow  movements  he  expected 
to  accomplish  the  object  he  had  at  heart.  With  Egypt 
as  a  nucleus,  he  knew  that  it  ^vas  an  easy  matter  to  extend 
it  over  the  entire  Arab  race.  Kis  fame  had  favorably  spread, 
before  his  fall,  throughout  Arabia  and  Syria,  and  caused 
serious  concern  to  those  who  were  propping  up  Turkey. 
Had  he  remained  on  his  throne  a  few  years  longer  he 
would  have  been  a  far  more  dangerous  clement  in  causing 
alarm  to  Turkey  than  the  movements  of  Russia,  or  even 
Austria  backed  by  Germany,  in  their  designs  upon  the 
Porte. 

It  is  extremely  doubtful  whether  El  Mahdi  will  be  able 
to  organize  the  Arab  race,  even  those  in  the  Soudan,  tor 
any  useful  purpose,  as  his  litful  rule,  after  creating  great 


THE.   FUTURE   Of  EGVPT. 


««s 


excitement,  must  eventually  end  in  turtiulcnce  and  anarchy. 
Even  if  be  had  an  intelligent  material  to  work  with,  it 
would  be  equally  necessary  that  he  should  be,  as  Ismail 
Pacha  says,  "  a  great  apostle  of  their  faith  and  a  great  soldier 
of  their  affection"  in  order  "  to  combine  the  crescent  and 
the  sword"  in  creating  a  nationality  or  to  become  a  bene- 
factor of  the  Arab.  The  abandonment  of  Khartoum  will 
give  El  Mahdi  an  opportunity.  In  thU  new  arena  he  will 
be  both  prophet  and  political  leader.  His  people  a  wild 
horde  of  savages,  without  thought,  brought  in  contact  with 
civilization,  he  must  at  once  prove  whether  he  is  equal  to 
the  great  work  promised  by  his  devotees.  If  another 
Mahomet  shall  wield  an  iron  despotism  over  tlietr  minds 
and  bodies,  and  be  at  the  same  time  capable  of  organising 
and  directing  the  vast  numbers  of  savages  who  surround 
him,  very  similar  to  those  in  the  earlier  day,  the  small 
force  at  Assouan  will  not  be  able  to  secure  that  perfect 
safety  expected  to  the  Suez  Canal. 


PART   II. 

Military  Experiences  in  Abyssinia 


CHAPTER    I. 

THE  KHEDIVE'S  ANXIETV  FOR  AFRICAN  CONQUEST. 

Aocleat  rclailon*  ol  Ethiopia  lo  Egypt— The  modem  Pharoobi  perpetnal-' 
in|tbc  iFAiliilonx  of  their  prcdccEUoia — Ismail's  fitsi  sicp  towaid  gala* 
Uig  the  kty  of  Ctnlral  A(tic« — The  suppression  of  the  »l«vK-irad«  oiadv 
ibe  pUusitilc  excuse  lor  cvnquest^lsinairs  dream  u(  includinc  in  bU 
kingilom  all  tbc  land  o(  the  Nile— Armed  exploring  paitic*  »cnl  out — 
TliL'  daiing  ndvenlurca  of  Colonel  C.  C.  Lon)[-~Otticr  explodnc  espe- 
diiions— Anncxailon  luuKhC  under  Ibe  plea  of  Rciencond  humunily — 
Arrendrap's  expedition  againil  King  John  ot  Abyiunia  in  ie;j— His  of- 
ficeis  and  the  compotlllon  of  hi*  force — Hi*  lltllearmy  cui  topicce*  bjr 
King  John  In  the  valley  of  ih«  Marcb— Eitap*  o(  tcitiefcd  detach- 
menu  under  Msjora  Dennison,  Dotholu.  and  Raif — Melancholy  end  of 
AH  uufariunaie  expedition. 

There  had  bi.-en  from  time  immemorial,  or  at  least  from 
the  time  of  the  twelfth  ilynasty  of  the  Pharaohs,  conatant 
wars  between  the  Ethiopian<i  and  the  people  who  lived  ia 
the  lower  valley  of  the  Nile.  These  continued  to  the  time  of 
Mchemel  Ali,  the  founder  of  the  present  dynasty  of  Egypt, 
and  of  his  successors,  and  culminated  in  these  latter  days 
in  the  formidable  expedition  it  is  proposed  to  notice  now, 
which  was  sent  to  Abyssinia  in  1875  by  the  Khedive  of 
Egypt. 

In  1866  the  Khedive  purchased  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey 
undisputed  title  to  the  city  of  Massowah,  and  subsequently 
to  that  of  Zeila,  unless  a  fitful  claim  to  them  by  the 
Abyssinians  may  be  mentioned  as  a  bar.  These  are  really 
the  only  two  important  point*  where  Abyiwinia  can  reach 
the  sea.  Abyssinia  would  therefore  seem  to  have  some 
right  to  them.  In  order  that  quiet  might  be  secured  be- 
tween these  ports  and  the  interior  of  his  extensive  tcrri- 


\ 


390         THE  KHSDtyeS  AKXtSTY  FOR  CONQUEST. 


toiy ;  that  his  people  might  not  be  interrupted  in  their 
trade,  commerce,  and  agriculture,  the  Khedive  ordered 
MuntKingcr  Bey,  a  Swiss  in  his  service,  to  cut  the  Gordiiin 
knot  and  take  military  possession  of  the  entire  province  of 
Rogos,  intermediate  in  this  line  of  commerce,  immediately 
on  his  frontier,  and  separated  from  Abyssinia  by  a  desert. 
As  Egypt  then  stood,  she  had  her  iron  hand  on  three  sides 
—along  the  entire  scacoast  of  the  Red  Sea  bordering 
Abyssinia,  and  wherever  the  extensive  frontier  of  the  Sou- 
dan touched  it.  Egypt  being  the  most  enlightened  com- 
mercial nation  in  north-east  Africa,  and  the  Abyssintans 
being  given  up  to  war,  turmoil,  and  the  slave-trade,  it  was 
right  that  Egypt  should  thus  hold  the  more  barbarous  nation 
in  check.  It  was  also  to  some  extent  in  the  interest  of 
humanity,  inasmuch  as  Eg>'pt  was  a  responsible  govern- 
ment, which  could  be  held  to  her  promises  to  check  and 
eventually  stamp  nut  the  horrible  slave-trade,  which  was 
unbluithingly  carried  on  by  Abyssinia,  even  to  the  selling  of 
her  own  dark-skinned  daughters.  These  were  some  of  the 
reasons  given  at  Cairo  why  the  Khedive  determined  upon 
sending  an  expedition  to  Abyssinia.  As  soon  as  it  was 
determined,  other  expeditions  were  fitted  out,  it  was  said 
to  distract  the  enemy  and  induce  him  to  come  to  terms  by 
treaty  rectifying  the  frontier,  and  conceding  the  other  points 
which  were  sought  to  be  attained.  I  wa.i  not  in  the  secret 
of  these  movements,  and  only  give  my  opinions.  Notwith- 
standing these  plausible  statements,  the  extraordinary  prep- 
aration:! indicated  that  more  was  contemplated  than  ap- 
'pearcd  on  the  surface. 

Beyond  the  borders  of  Egypt  proper,  where  the  Nile 
and  its  branches  take  their  rise  and  subsequently  extend 
through  several  degrees  of  latitude,  there  are  extensive  and 
rich  valleys.  These  valleys  arc  inhabited  by  numerous 
tribes  of  savages.  This  immense  zone  of  fertile  land  lying 
waste,  formed  by  the  river  and  its  sources,  had  always  been 
claimed  by  Egypt  as  far  as  the  Nile  ran,  according  to  the 


TUE  KHEDIVE'S  ANXIETY  FOR  CONQUEST.         S91 

old  Phamolis'  traditions.  It  was  but  nitttira]  that  barbarous 
tribes  of  divers  races  engaged  in  constant  and  bloody 
wars,  incapable  of  governing  themselves,  should  give  way 
to  the  gicat  law  ol  peoples  and  yield  to  some  regularly 
constituted  authority.  It  seemed  but  just  in  the  mind  of 
the  Khedive  that  he,  following  the  tradition  of  bis  ancient 
predccetsofH,  should  claim  as  a  right  all  the  domain  wa- 
tered by  the  fertilizing  river. 

Here  we  may  find  some  raison  d'itrt  for  these  portentous 
expeditions  to  establish  title,  according  to  the  method! 
pursued  by  the  most  enlightened  nations  on  the  continent 
of  Africa,  and  like  them,  if  necessary,  to  use  military  force 
as  a  last  resort  to  attain  possession.  Therefore  it  was  that 
Colonel  C.  C.  Long,  of  the  Khedive's  staff,  planted  the 
Egyptian  flag  on  Lake  Victoria  Nyanza,  he  being  the  first 
white  man  who  ever  sailed  upon  its  waters,  Speke  having 
merely  seen  the  lake  in  the  distance.  This  energetic  young 
American  with  two  negro  soldiers  visited  at  this  time  the 
King  of  Uganda,  living  at  the  Equator  and  on  the  lake, 
having  passed  through  a  country  from  which  Baker  was 
driven  with  over  5cx>  men.  Colonel  Long  subsequently, 
suffering  from  disease  and  starvation,  and  naturally  a  deli- 
cate man,  dragged  the  slow  length  of  his  march  on  his  re- 
turn through  the  malarial  swamps  of  Central  Africa,  and 
after  many  months  arrived  at  Gondokoro,  emaciated  and  a 
mere  shadow  of  his  former  self.  The  wonderful  experience 
of  this  youthful  explorer  in  this  and  subsequent  successful 
expeditions  into  the  Niam-Niam  country  are  graphically 
pictured  in  the  published  narrative  of  his  expedition.  The 
interest  i^  heightened  by  vivid  accounts  of  conversations  held 
and  tragedies  witnessed  at  the  court  of  M'Tcsa,  King  o( 
Uganda,  whose  possessions  lie  on  both  sides  of  the  Equator. 
Not  the  least  striking  episodes  are  the  descriptions  of  the 
picturesque  surroundings  of  the  sable  monarch.  The  dis- 
covery of  Lake  Ibrahim,  which  he  named,  ranks  Long 
among  the  discoverers  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile,  and  his 


191       THE  kiiedive:s  akxiety  fox  COA-QVSSr. 

terrible  conflict,  aided  by  two  negro  soldiers,  with  a  large 
body  of  savages  on  the  lake  adds  a  brilliant  chapter  to  the 
record  o!  American  pluck  and  sense,  and  we  icad  the  story 
of  his  adventures  with  intense  interest,  though  it  includes 
much  that  is  painful. 

Following  ia  an  account  of  another  expedition  made  by 
Colonel  Long,  of  which  no  narrative  has  been  published. 
It  shows  how  extensive  an  empire  Ismail  conlcmplaled. 
and  how  hia  schemes  were  thwarted  by  the  selfish  policy  of 
bis  professed  friend.  Great  Britain. 

As  part  of  the  scheme  by  which  an  equatorial  empire  was 
to  be  secured,  it  was  determined  to  open  a  road  from  juba 
River  through  to  the  great  lakes  of  the  Equator ;  and 
Long,  who  had  so  daringly  acquitted  himself  in  his  various 
expeditions  into  the  equatorial  basin,  was  selected  for  the 
very  dangerous  and  important  duty.  The  following  is  the 
letter  of  instructions  from  the  Khedive,  which  is  given  in 
the  original  language  in  which  it  was  written  and  given  to 
Long,  at  Cairo,  in  September,  1875  : 

"  Monsieur  Le  Colohel  :  Conlormement  Jt  I'ardre  que  je  vous  ai 
donni!  verb.ttcmcnt  voua  devtt  partic  pour  Sum,  ou  se  iroiireni  d^ja 
Ics  troi*  compaKnis  les  munitions,  etc.,  que  vous  devei  mcncr  1 
Berber  sur  lei  bateaux  Tanta  et  Dessouk.  .  .  .  Je  n'ai  pas  heioin  de 
vous  rcpeier  que  le  secret  loit  gardtf  suria  destination  de  rexpedilioit- 
,  ,  .  Je  compic.  Monsieur  Ic  Colonel,  sur  voire  it\e,  sur  voire  activity 
et  voire  intcUigeoce  dc  vous  acquUicr  de  la  mission  qui  vous  est 
conterte. 

"  Croyu,  Monsieur  le  Colonel,  a  mes  sentimenis  d'amiti^. 

"Ismail, 

"  Palais  db  CtiiRSH.  Ic  t?  Septembrc.  1S7S-" 


Trant/aliom. 

COLOMKL  :  In  conformity  with  the  order  which  I  gave  you  verbally, 
you  will  leave  (or  Suei,  where  are  already  Ihc  three  companies,  the 
aoimunition,  etc,  which  you  are  to  ukc  to  Berber  on  the  ships  Tanu 
and  Desiouk.  ...  I  neeJ  not  repeat  10  you  thai  secrecy  be  main- 
tained apon  (he  detli nation  of  ihecipeditlon,    .    .    ,    [  rely.  Colonel, 


THE  KltEDlV^S  AMXIRTY  FOR  CONQUEST.         »93 

upon  your  teal,  upon  your  activity,  and  your  ioleUiKCflce  to  acquit 
jrouneli  ol  the  mistion  which  is  inirastnl  to  you. 
Believe,  Colonel,  in  my  sentiments  o(  Iriendship. 

ISXAO. 

Palack  or  C£ziKEii,  September  t?,  1875. 


Long,  who  was  at  this  time  on  leave,  was  called  back  to 
carr>'  out  the  instructions  contained  in  the  above  communis 
calion,  which  lie  furnished  me,  together  with  all  the  state* 
ments  I  have  written  with  regard  to  this  interesting  ex- 
pedition. Long  says  his  conquests  were  to  be  on  the  east 
coast  of  Africa  extending  from  Berbera  to  Cape  Guardafui, 
Socotra  Islands,  and  thence  southward  in  the  Indian  Ocean 
to  Ras  Mafoun,  Brava,  Kismayu,  and,  if  need  be,  Zanzibar 
itself.  Ismail  Pacha  dreamed  of  making  Snul  Burgasch, 
the  Sultan,  still  his  guest,  his  vassal,  and  Long  was  chosen 
as  his  agent.  How  well  his  scheme  would  have  succeeded 
but  for  the  interference  of  Lord  Derby,  then  minister  o( 
Her  Britannic  Majesty's  Government,  the  despatches  of 
that  day  indicate. 

Long  sailed  from  Suez  with  a  command  of  picked  men 
tOOO  strong,  of  all  arms,  two  men-of-war.  the  Mehemet  Ali 
and  the  Latif ;  two  transports,  the  Tanta  and  the  De»- 
souk  ;  provi^oned  and  ammunitioned  for  six  months  or 
more.  Ras  Hafoun,  Brava,  and  Kismayu  were  quickly 
seited  and  garrisoned,  and  Long's  first  despatches  to  the 
Khedive  reported  these  facts  and  were  dated  from  his  camp 
on  the  Juba  River,  whither,  having  in  prospect  the  rainy 
season,  he  had  marched,  surrounded  by  the  hostile  and 
warlike  Somali.  He  had  built  a  fortified  camp  whose 
heights  swept  the  great  plains  on  every  side.  Here,  await- 
ing impatiently  his  promised  orders,  he  made  a  reconnots- 
sance  of  the  mystic  River  juba  from  which  the  gallant  and 
daring  Vonderdecker  had  never  returned,  having  been 
treacherously  massacred  by  the  natives.  Leaving  his 
camp,  now  strongly  constructed  of  dom-wood  and  palm  and 


I 


»94         TttE  KIIEDIVSS  Af/XIBTY  FOR  COyQUEST: 


garrisoned  by  n  Torcc  numbering  one  thousand  men.  Lon^ 
embarked  en  the  34th  of  November,  187;,  in  a  steam- 
bunch,  accompanied  by  his  faithful  ofliccTS  Captain  Hassan 
Wassif  and  Mohamcd  Eilcnili,  with  fifteen  picked  men,  a 
small  cut!  and  six  days'  rations,  tu  makes  rcconnois'.3nce  of 
the  rivor  tn  anticipation  of  the  orders  lie  hoped  to  receive 
which  would  soon  permit  him  to  plunge  into  the  interior. 
He  ascended  the  river  as  far  as  the  land  of  M'Kowd 
M'Woli  or  the  land  of  Sheik  All,  150  miles  from  the 
mouth.  He  was  saluted  on  all  sides  by  (he  wondering 
tribes,  awakened  by  the  shriek  and  puff  of  the  engine  of  the 
exploring  party,  with  cri(.-s  of  "  Vambo  !  yanibo  !  ycmani" 
— Salute  you,  O  friend.     Sugar-cane,  Indian  corn,  bananas, 

bOielons,  and  the  date  were  found.  The  natives,  strangely 
mixed  in  color  and  speaking  various  idioms,  made  it 
sufTicicnily  clear  that  here  is  the  great  passage-way  of  the 
slave-trader.  The  swift  current  of  the  river  shadowed  by 
the  thick  overhanging  foliage  made  the  voyage  delightful, 
to  which  was  added  the  perfume  exhaled  from  a  thousand 

.plants.  The  river  \i  fully  a  hundred  yards  in  width  and 
varies  from  twelve  to  thirty-five  feet  in  depth.  Tlie  hippo- 
potamus and  crocodile  abound  and  afford  diversion  in  shoot- 
ing at  them.  The  report  of  the  gun  awakens  the  slumber- 
ing echoes  of  the  forest  from  whose  depths  come  back  the 
song  of  bird.s,  the  hoot  of  owls,  or  the  defiant,  half-human 
scream  of  monkeys  of  every  species. 

Before  returning  Long  was  informed  that  in  the  interior 

iand  upon  his  projected  route  westward  there  was  a  great 
neg«)  monarch  whom  the  negroes  of  M'Woli  called  Kori, 
representing  him  to  be  greater  than  all  other  African  kings. 
Long  was  introduced  to  a  captive  from  that  country,  and 
thought  he  saw  in  her  a  resemblance  to  the  Uganda  race  ; 
but  though  he  plied  her  with  questions  in  the  Uganda  lan- 
guage, he  could  not  .secure  from  her  a  reply,  the  captive  in 
disdainful  silence  refusing  to  answer. 

Long  returned   to  his  camp  on  the  Juba  resolved  to  use 


TM£  KIlEDiyE'S  AXXiBTY  FOM  CCVQUBST.        J95 

the  river  at  least  to  this  point  in  his  projected  journey  to 
tlic  lakes. 

On  the  ut  of  December  he  was  visited  by  the  brother  of 
the  Sultan  Abdallah,  King  of  the  Comoro  Islands,  the 
Johanna  or  (linKonan  Islands  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  not  far 
from  Madagascar.  Knight's  Geography  thus  speaks  of 
ihcm  :  "A  group  of  four  islands  in  the  Mozambique 
Channel,  between  Afiica  and  north-west  coast  of  Madagas> 
car.  Comoro,  the  largest,  is  about  30  miles  long  and  13 
miles  broad  ;  abundant  supplies  of  tvatcr,  bullocks,  sheep 
and  goats,  oranges,  lemons,  and  plantains.  Mohilla  and 
Mayotta  are  the  smallest  of  the  group.  Johanna  or 
Hinzonan  is  the  only  one  frequented  by  European  ships 
on  the  passage  to  India.  The  town  of  Mochadon  has 
good  anchorage ;  the  inhabitants  trade  in  slaves  and  the 
produce  of  the  island  with  the  coast  of  Arabia,  from  which 
they  carry  back  Indian  goods.  Small  fat  bulls,  poultry, 
rice,  yams,  sweet  potatoes,  pineapples,  oranges,  guavas, 
and  other  fruits  arc  given  to  ships'  crews  in  barter  for  red 
and  blue  cloth,  nails,  iron,  razors,  knives,  beads,  mirrors, 
muskets,  cutlasses,  gunpowdc,  flints,  etc.  The  Sultan  of 
the  islands  resides  at  Mochadon.  which  has  3000  inhabit 
tants.  The  population  of  the  island  is  said  to  be  diminish- 
ing in  consequence  of  the  incurtiions  of  pirates  from  Mada- 
gascar, who  carry  the  people  away  intoslavcry.  The  group 
is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  contains  several  peaked  mountaina, 
one  of  which,  in  Johanna,  is  6000  feet  high.  Except  at 
their  summits  the  soil  is  very  fertile." 

Here  indeed  was  the  climax  of  adventure.  Ali  was  the 
Sultan's  Grand  Vizier;  he  had  travelled  in  Europe  and 
spoke  fluently  the  French  language.  He  had  conceived 
the  idea  of  making  these  i.s1ands  the  resort  of  merchant 
ships  and  Europeans.  He  desired  a  change,  and  to  that 
end  he  folded  his  tent  like  the  gcnlccl  Arab  that  he  was, 
stole  away  laden  with  treasure,  and  with  a  suite  of  eight  or 
ten  men  had  found  his  way  into  Long's  camp  on  the  Juba, 


«9"S         TtlE  X//£D/VErS  ANXtBTY  FOR  CONQUEST. 


where  he  appeared  on  the  night  of  the  i»t  of  December. 
He  was  clothed  in  gorgeously  worked  vestments,  while 
upon  his  person  glittered  many  brilliant  stones.  He  begged 
Long  to  accept  the  sultanate  of  the  islands,  describing  his 

■  brother  Abdallah  as  cruel,  rapacious,  and  ignorant.  The 
commandant  of  the  Juba  camp  was  perfectly  amazed.  He 
received  his  guest  politely,  and  sent  him  to  rest  with  hU 

.retinue  in   the  tents  near  hts  own.     In  the  morning  Alt, 

'when  he  saw  the  magnificent  force  and  equipment  which 
composed  Long's  command,  as  they  marched  in  the  bright 
light  of  the  morning  upon  the  plain  below,  exclaimed, 
"  Accept,  O  Bc>-,  the  government  of  these  islands.  With 
one  hundred  of  such  men  the  conquest  is  doubly  assured, 
while  with  your  entire  command  you  can  hold  the  islands 
against  the  world." 

It  was  at  this  time  that  Lord  Derby  addressed  a  letter  to 
the  Khedive  protesting  against  his  scheme  of  conquest  and 
asking  the  immediate  recall  of  the  Juba  expedition.  Of 
this  Long,  of  course,  knew  nothing.  Unwilling  to  accept 
All's  proposition,  he  placed  that  schemer  on  board  one  of 
the  steamers  intended  for  mail  service  between  Kismaya 
and  Suez,  and  sent  him  to  Egypt  as  the  guest  of  the 
Khedive.     It  is  impossible  to  .say  where  Ali  is  now. 

Long  was  soon  afterward  prostrated  by  a  malignant 
fever,  and  h's  command  was  returned  to  Egypt  at  a  time 
when  general  bankruptcy  and  disorder  prevailed.  He  had 
obeyed  his  orders,  and  executed  the  Khedive's  commands 
faithfully  in  evcr^-  particular ;  and  he  compLiined  bitterly 
of  the  fact  that  when  the  Khedive  was  taken  to  task  by 
the  British  Government  he  evaded  responsibility  by  saying 
that  the  conquest  of  the  coast  and  the  invasion  of  Burgaschi 
territory  were  due  to  an  excess  of  zeal  on  the  part  of  his 

"officers. 

While  writing  of  these  expeditions  into  the  region  of  the 
slave-traffic  I  may  fitly  take  occasion  to  say  something  of 
slavery  itself  as  it  exists  in  the  Ivasc.  and  especially  in 


TUB  KHEDtves  ANXIETY  FOR  CONQUEST.         397 


^pt.  The  institution  there  differs  in  many  ways  from 
slavery  as  we  knew  it  in  this  country.  I  believe  that,  not- 
withstanding the  Attempts  made  for  its  abohtion,  slavery 
still  exists  in  Egypt,  as  well  as  throughout  many  other  paits 
of  the  East.  It  will  continue  as  long  as  the  harem  system 
remains,  where  men  consider  their  wives  as  slaves,  and 
their  authority  in  their  abodes  superior  to  any  law  other 
than  that  which  the  word  of  the  Prophet  sanctions.  The 
harem  is  a  sanctuary-  into  which  no  one  but  the  lord  and 
master  thereof  can  enter.  Slaver^'  is,  however,  much  more 
humane  there,  as  a  general  thing,  than  it  is  in  Cuba,  where 
its  existence  is  a  crying  shame  to  our  civilization,  where 
licensed  cruelty  is  permitted  at  the  verj'  doors  of  the  freest 
government  on  the  earth. 

The  negro  in  Egypt  is  used  entirely  for  domestic  pur^ 
poses.  He  acts  as  doorkeeper  (boab).  looks  after  the 
horses,  and  In  his  picturesque  dress  runs  before  the  carriage 
of  his  master,  and  is  called  his  syce.  He  cleans,  (ills,  and 
lights  his  master's  pipe,  and  always  takes  the  first  pufT ; 
brings  him  his  cofTee,  drinking  the  first  cup  ;  he  is  his  pet 
familiar,  and  gencr.illy  has  little  to  do.  He  rarely  or  never 
is  a  laborer  or  works  in  the  fields,  and  is  the  shiniest, 
sleekest  specimen  of  mortality  in  Egypt,  unless  we  except 
that  unhappy  class  denominated  the  neuter  gender,  the 
special  guardians  of  the  abode  of  bliss-  The  hard-working 
cultivator  of  the  soil  is  the  native  Egyptian,  the  brown- 
and-yellow  man,  the  fellah,  who  in  no  way  physically  or 
mentally  resembles  the  black  man,  and  who,  now  as  in  the 
day  of  the  Fhaiaohs,  rarely  or  never  mixes  blood  with  him. 
People  of  all  nationalities  in  the  neighborhood  of  Turkey 
and  Eg>-pt  have  been  enslaved  ;  the  principal  judge  of  the 
mixed  tribunals,  3  Greek  by  birth,  now  a  Mahometan,  was  a 
slave  in  his  boyhood,  having  been  taken  prisoner  in  war. 
The  mothers  of  many  of  the  Viccroj-s  of  Egypt  were  slaves, 
and  nearly  every  wife  of  the  older  Pachas  was  purchased  for 
a  small  sum.     It  is  2  thcor>-  often  reduced  to  practice  that 


I 


4 


•  jS         THE  A'UED/y£S  ANXIETY  FOX  COXQUEST, 

every  woman  there  is  a  slave,  and  can  only  be  had  by  pur- 
Ldiase.  A  lady,  the  wife  of  a  well-known  ambassador,  was 
•  not  long  since  a  Greek  slave  bought  in  Alexandria  for  a 
small  sum,  and  reigned  as  a  leader  of  fashion  in  one  of  the 
most  brilliant  courts  of  Europe.  A  recent  Minister  of 
War,  Kassim  Pacha,  one  of  the  most  noted  ministers  of 
Ismail,  was  bom  a  Greek  Christian  in  the  island  of  Cyprus. 
He  was  taken  prisoner  in  his  youth  and  sold  into  slavery. 
Many  other  persons  of  high  position  who  arc  known  to  me 
personally  are  of  foreign  origin  ant)  were  slaves  in  their 
youth. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  pardon  the  digression  with  which 
I  have  thus  broken  the  thread  of  discourse,  in  view  of  the 
importance  of  the  subject.  1  now  renew  the  record  of  ex- 
ploration and  conquest. 

Lieutenant- Colonel  Mason  and  Colonel  Trout  navigated 
and  surveyed  Lake  Albert  Nyanza,  discovered  by  Raker  in 
1864.  General  RalcfgU  Colston,  formcily  an  officer  of  the 
Southern  Confederacy,  was  more  recently  one  of  our 
American  explorers  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  His  geologi- 
cal  and  botanical  collections,  maps,  and  reconnoissanccs 
add  much  to  the  interest  of  a  visit  to  the  Citadel  at  Cairo. 
Devoted  to  duty,  he  penetrated  into  the  comparatively  un- 
known region  between  the  Dcbbt,  Mantoul,  and  Obcyail, 
and  far  into  the  provinces  of  Kurdofan  and  Darfour  in 
Central  Africa.  His  services  involved  great  labor  and 
reflect  credit  upon  his  sense  and  determination.  Always 
willing  to  face  the  turbulent  savages,  and,  worse  still,  the 
malarial  cesspools  of  the  Dark  Continent,  he  was  eventually 
stricken  with  disease  while  toiling  through  the  heated  des- 
erts of  the  Soudan.  The  Khedive  highly  appreciated  his 
services  and  complimented  him  with  a  high  decoration. 
Before  leaving  Bgypt  for  his  home  he  was  compensated  in 
part  for  his  broken  health  by  a  gift  of  £\cao. 

Colonel  Beverly  Kennon,  before  coming  to  Egypt  as 
colonel  of  ordnance.had  seen  service  in  the  United  States  and 


TUB  KHEDIVES  ANXIETY  FOR  CONQUEST. 


399 


Confederate  navies.  Though  he  did  not  penetrate  far  into 
the  interior  of  Africa— not  beyond  the  first  cataract  on  the 
Nile — he  was  one  of  those  eng;^ed  in  the  ta.sk  of  mapping 
out  the  empire  of  Ismail.  For  a  number  of  months  in  the 
heated  season  he  was  employed  by  water  and  land  in  surveys 
and  in  hydraulic  and  hydrostatic  observations  of  the  hidden 
wonders  of  the  waters  of  old  Father  Nile.  While  engaged 
in  these  duties  he  rendered  no  little  service  to  the  Egyp- 
tian Government,  He  elaborated  able  and  extensive  plana 
(or  the  coast  defence  of  Egypt.  One  was  by  means  of  a 
system  of  railroads  circling  Alexandria,  which  had  great 
merit.  A  system  somewhat  similar  was  used  by  the  F,ng- 
lish  in  the  war  with  Arabi  Facha.  That  upon  which  he 
prided  himself  above  the  rest  was  a  plan  for  innumerable  sin- 
glc-gun  forls  along  the  coast,  and  which  were  intended  as 
a  mutual  support.  They  were  to  be  sunk  in  the  sand-hills 
and  so  hidden  as  entirely  to  escape  ob.icrvation.  By  means 
of  ingenious  machincrj',  of  his  own  invention,  these  guns 
were  to  be  suddenly  raised  to  the  surface,  the  fire  delivered, 
and  as  suddenly  disappear  Into  the  earth.  Kennon  com- 
pleted one  of  his  forts  and  was  progressing  satisfactorily 
when  unfortunately  the  bottom  of  the  Egj'ptian  eaisse  fell 
through.  Money  became  scarce  ;  Ismail  turned  his  at- 
tention away  from  war  and  its  accompaniments  to  the 
sober  reality  of  devising  ways  and  means  to  meet  the 
demands  of  urgent  creditors,  and  these  undertakings  of 
Colonel  Kennon,  like  other  valuable  experiments,  necessa- 
rily came  to  an  end,  Kennon,  full  of  energy  and  ability, 
soon  wearied  of  the  monotony  of  a  life  uf  ease,  and  left 
Eg>'pt  for  the  United  States. 

I  shall  speak  of  one  more  of  those  laborious  ol^ccrs 
engaged  in  extending  the  area  of  Ismail's  empire,  who  pen- 
etrated far  into  the  jungles  of  Central  Africa.  General 
E.  S.  Furdy  served  with  distinction  in  the  Union  army, 
and  went  to  Egypt  as  a  colonel  at  an  early  day.  By  con- 
stant and  dangerous  service  he  won  his  promotion  to  the 


I 


y>t       THE  khf.divs's  anxiety  fok  conquest. 

Upon  marching  into  the  interior  about  thirty  miles  to  a 
place  called  Guinda,  Colonel  Arrendrup  addressed  a  letter 
to  King  John  of  Abyssinia,  which  stated  in  substance  that 
he  had  come  to  fix  the  boundar>'  between  him  <ind  Egypt, 
to  claim  indemnity  for  past  outrages  upon  the  Egyptian 
people,  and  that  unless  his  terms  were  immediately  accorded 
he  would  march  upon  King  John's  capital.  To  this  letter 
the  King  made  no  reply.  Arrcndfup  then  began  his  march 
to  the  Asmara  Mountains,  but  finding  these  mountains 
steep  and  difficult,  they  being  8000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  he  changed  his  course  of  march  to  the  Khaya  Khor 
and  Godof^-lassee  route  (see  the  map  annexed),  placing 
Dorholtt  at  Sangareit,  two  days*  march  south  of  Khaya 
Khor,  in  the  province  of  Okuleh-Gousai,  with  two  companies 
of  infantry,  while  Major  Raif  was  stopped  at  Khaya  Khor 
and  there  fortified  with  four  companies  of  infantr)-and  two 
pieces  of  artillery.  Count  Zichy,  with  six  companies  of 
infantry,  two  pieces  of  artillery,  and  two  roclcct  stands,  was 
ordered  to  a  place  c^lcd  AddiHuata,  which  was  over  a 
day's  march  from  Khaya  Khor,  an  elevated  position  ovcr> 
looking  the  valley  of  the  March  River,  and  here  rested 
five  or  six  days.  This  movement  Ihreale.ied  Adua,  the 
capital  of  King  John,  which  was  only  about  two  days' 
march  away.  Colonel  Arrcndrup.  with  the  remainder  of 
his  command,  went  to  GodofiUssec,  and  there  intrench- 
ments  were  thrown  up  by  Major  Dennison.  Hearing  that 
the  Abyssinians  were  on  the  move  in  the  direction  of  Count 
Zichy,  the  colonel  hastened  to  Addi-lluala.  In  the  mean 
time  the  Count  had  gone  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley  be- 
neath the  elevated  height  of  Gundet,  where  he  had  encoun- 
tered a  small  party  of  the  enemy.  Getting  this  information, 
Arrcndrup  hastened  to  Gundet  with  four  companies  of 
Infantry  and  two  mountain  pieces  in  search  of  Zichy. 
Dennison,  an  experienced  ufHcer,  taking  in  the  situation, 
begged  the  colonel  not  to  jeopard  the  command  by  going 
into  the  valley,  as  the  King  in  force  was  no  doubt  feeling 


THE  KHEDIVE'S  ANXIBTV  FOft  CONQUEST.  303 


bis  way  along  the  March  River  under  cover  of  its  thick 
growth  of  vegetation  and  the  mimosa-trees,  which  were 
large.  Not  heeding  this  wise  counsel,  Arrendrup  moved 
into  the  valley.  From  the  heights  of  Gundct,  looking  to 
the  south,  the  meandering  March  River  unfolded  itself, 
its  thick  and  tall  vegetation  indicating  its  course.  In  the 
diHlant  horizon  of  two  days'  march,  the  mountains  of  Adua 
stood  out  in  bold  relief,  their  peaks  sharp  and  piercing,  to 
be  compared  only  to  the  irregular  teeth  of  the  crocodile. 
During  the  night  the  King  was  in  the  valley  with  a  large 
vmy,  encamped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  his 
camp-fires  were  seen  for  miles  up  and  down  the  stream  as  he 
lay  in  wait  when  Arrendrup  arrived.  Before  the  colonel 
left  Addi-Huala  he  moved  Dcnnison  to  the  right  and  front 
of  the  position  there,  and  Major  Ruchdy  correspondingly  on 
the  left  flank.  Each  of  these  officers  had  a  small  command. 
Orders  were  sent  to  Rushton  Rcy,  who  had  been  left  in 
command  of  Addi-Huala,  to  move  at  daylight  with  five 
companies,  two  pieces  of  mountain  artiller>',  and  two 
rocket  stands  and  occupy  Cundet.  Dennison,  on  the  de- 
parture of  Rushton,  was  ordered  back  to  Addi-Huala, 
where  two  pieces  of  artillery  had  been  left,  to  hold  posses- 
sion of  this  ['lace.  It  is  sad  to  read  of  these  studied  dispo- 
sitions of  the  small  force  scattered  in  still  smaller  divisions 
over  a  mount-tiiious  counirj-.  about  which  little  was  known, 
in  the  face  of  a  powerful  and  wily  enemy  of  whom  less 
was  known.  These  arrangements  being  made.  Arrendrup, 
with  eight  companies,  (our  pieces. of  artillery,  and  two 
rocket  stands,  advanced  early  next  morning,  the  ijth  of 
November,  down  the  precipitate  and  winding  path  to  the 
March  River,  with  the  intention  of  attacking  the  King, 
vrhosc  people  unseen  were  then  thickly  scattered  on  both 
sides  of  the  stream  awaiting  his  movements.  He  had 
scarcely  marched  into  the  rugged  and  wooded  valley  of  the 
Mareb  and  commenced  his  diiipositions,  with  barely  time 
for  a  few  volleys  from  his  infantry  and  discharges  from  his 


I 


TUB  KHEDIVE'S  ANXiBTY  FOH  CONQUEST.        305 


While  these  events  were  occurring  a  letter  came  to  Dcnnison 
from  King  Jolm  demanding  his  surrender,  and  in  the  name 
of  humanity  calling;  upon  him  to  spare  any  further  eRusion 
of  blood.  If  he  gave  up  his  arms  he  was  assured  that  he 
and  his  command  would  be  given  a  safe-conduct  to  Masso- 
wah,  or  they  could  stay  in  the  King's  service  i(  they 
pleased.  Dcnnison  replied  that  he  would  refer  the  matter 
to  his  commanding  officer,  who  was  absent.  A  large  force 
of  the  enemy  was  near  him  in  a  threatening  attitude  at  this 
time,  and  the  whole  army  within  four  mile*  of  his  position. 

With  all  these  facts  before  him,  Dcnnison  became  satis* 
ficd  that  if  he  remained  longer  (and  perhaps  he  had  stayed 
too  long  already)  his  command  was  doomed  to  destruction. 
Spiking  his  cannon,  therefore,  he  marched  away  with  light 
baggage.  Coming  to  Major  Raif,  at  Khaya  Khor,  he  too 
gathered  up  his  forces,  and  taking  command  of  the  whole, 
turned  his  troops  toward  Massowah.  Major  Dorholt^, 
wise  in  time,  had  already  taken  flight.  Thus  the  fragments 
of  an  expedition,  a  few  days  before  full  of  the  pride  of  war, 
now  thoroughly  alarmed,  went  stampeding  and  straggling 
toward  the  coast,  with  the  enemy  at  their  heel.*,  ITie 
details  of  this  march  cannot  be  imagined,  much  less  dc> 
scribed.  Count  de  Sareec,  the  French  consul  at  Massowah, 
in  a  published  account  now  before  me,  says  that  he  found 
Count  Zichy  lying  wounded  among  the  dead,  in  a  most 
horrible  condition,  too  painful  to  describe.  Being  com- 
pelled to  go  to  the  King,  with  whom  he  had  arranged  an 
interview,  he  did  all  he  could  for  the  unfortunate  man. 
placing  him  at  the  house  of  a  Greek  to  await  his  return. 
Upon  coming  back  he  was  informed  that  Zichy  had  been 
taken  away  by  order  of  the  King.  He  supposed  that  he 
had  been  killed.  It  was  subsequently  stated  in  Cairo  that 
he  died  while  going  with  these  people  to  Adua,  and  was 
buried  there. 

Abyssinia  is  almost  a  terra  incognita,  even  to  a  majority 
of  thoac  who  arc  well  read  In  history  and  ethnology,  in 


I 
I 

I 

I 


% 


3o6         THE  KHBDryjCS  ANXIETY  FOR  CONQUEST. 

spite  of  the  remarkable  traditions  of  this  most  interesting 
of  semi-barbarous  races.  I  shall  be  pardoned,  then,  if  I 
devote  some  space  to  the  country  and  its  inhabitants  before 
proceeding  to  what  more  properly  forms  my  subject,  the 
campaign  made  by  the  large  expedition  sent  out  in  1875 
after  the  sad  news  of  Arrendrup's  fate  reached  Cairo — an 
expedition  in  which  I  served  as  second  in  command  and 
chief  of  staff.  The  militaiy  experiences  of  that  most  inter- 
esting but  disastrous  campaign  will  be  far  more  intelligible 
if  once  the  reader  understands  the  character  and  antece- 
dents of  the  people  against  whom  it  was  made. 


CHAPTER  11. 

ABVSSiNIA — ITS  HISTORY  AND  INHABITANTS. 

The  gtagnphj  ot  ihe  country— VcgtUble  life — Race*  !n  AbjrHiniB— Chw>| 
ttctcriiikiof  the<IlmBie~Th«  origin  ot  the  Blue  Nile — Gorctncacnt  knd 
tocfal  (eatuTCi  — Abjnsinia  a  feodal  mooarcby  -  The  fauna  of  the  fegioa 
— The  Gneit  hunlinK  ground  In  the  world  — Amrkulturo  sncl  ■l.ivr-ry — 
Relation  ot  Abyuinia  to  ancient  E|[y[i I— Ancient  monuments— Trodi* 
ttoni  of  Ihe  people— Curiou*  (act*  about  their  religion  antl  iu  hUtoij, 

The  short  epitome  which  I  shall  give  of  the  geography, 
climate,  history,  and  customs  of  the  people  of  Abyssinia  is 
founded  on  trustworthy  information  from  those  whom  I 
think  best  informetl,  and  on  my  own  observations.  1  am 
greatly  indebted  for  much  that  is  valuable  to  Monsieur 
Abb^  Duilot.  a  highly  cultivated  gentleman  who  lived  in 
the  country  for  nine  years,  and  mixed  socially  and  as  priest 
with  the  people. 

Abyssinia  i)i  a  rolling  and  rugged  country ;  its  moun- 
tains arc  like  "  Felion  piled  upon  Ossa,"  with  numerous 
grand  plateaus  very  much  like  the  table-lands  of  Mexico, 
from  3CXX}  to  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In  a 
march  of  eighty  miles  you  ascend  3000  feet  to  the  mountain 
of  Khaya  Khor.  The  ascent  is  gradual  from  the  coast,  but 
on  the  other  side  it  is  only  a  step  from  the  lop  of  the  moun- 
tain down  to  the  level  plateau  of  Gura.  Tlie  boundaries  of 
Abyssinia  arc  uncertain.  Some  place  them  between  8* 
and  16"  N.  lat.  and  31°  and  43°  E.  Ion.,  and  this  seems  to 
be  the  most  probable  estimate  It  claims  control  of  the 
country  contiguous  to  the  Soudan  on  the  one  side  of 
Egypt,  a  vast  stretch  of  country  west  of  the  Blue  Nile  in- 
habited by  the  Gallas.  a  people  who  do  not  i^ieak  the  same 
language  nor  profess  the  same  religion,   "  consisting  of 


jo8     ABrSSrA'lA'-lTS  mSTOKY  AND  INIIABlTAffTS. 


lumerous  tribes  that  extend  to  the  Indian  Ocean  as  far  as 
!!ancibar  ;"  and  on  the  other  side  to  the  Equator.  Shoa,  a 
large  province,  is  somrtiincs  independent  under  its  own 
king,  who  bears  the  traditional,  hereditary  name  o(  Mene- 
lek.  This  descendant  of  King  Solomon,  as  he  claims,  is 
now  a  vassal  of  King  John.  Shoa  is  inhabited  by  the  same 
people  and  has  the  same  tcligion  and  language  as  Abyssinia 
proper.  The  people  arc  of  the  original  Abyssinian  stock, 
and  are  naturally  a  part  of  the  same  nation.  From  this 
sketch  it  will  be  noticed  that  it  is  difficult  to  determine  the 
population  of  Abyssinia.  It  is  variously  estimated  to  be 
from  five  to  ten  millions.  The  country  is  divided  into  two 
principal  parts.  In  one  are  the  mountains  of  Hamzcn, 
Augaic,  Angassic,  Tigre,  Amhara,  Semien,  Agaos,  and 
Ambas. 

One  of  the  finest  views  in  all  these  mountains  is  obtained 
by  ascending  from  the  little  town  of  Abbi-Addi,  the  capital 
of  the  province  of  Tcmbicn,  to  the  summit  ot  the  Ambas 
Mountains,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  Here  dwell  the 
monks  of  whom  I  shall  write.  These  mountains  appear  to 
have  been  terribly  shaken  by  tremendous  convulsions  of 
nature.  Cut  and  torn  into  fantastic  shapes,  they  present 
to  a  lively  imagination  well-nigh  every  conceivabl':  form — 
cathedral  towers,  battlements,  castle  front.*,  and  what  not — 
giving  to  the  whole  the  semblance  of  some  great  panorama 
of  nature's  creation  for  the  amusement  of  the  looker-on. 

There  arc  defiles  and  gorges,  where  a  handful  of  reso> 
lute  men  can  defy  an  army,  and  these  natural  defences 
have  many  a  time  served  the  turbulent  people  well  in  war 
and  revolution.  Thc^e  mountain  defiles  have  also  served 
the  purposes  of  vengeance  on  occasion.  It  was  in  a  fortress 
here  that  King  John  doomed  Obei,  his  rival,  to  die  after 
his  eyes  had  been  put  out.  In  the  midst  of  the  mountains 
lie  the  beautiful  and  rich  plateaus  lying  from  2000  to  300O, 
others  from  6oc»  to  9000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
having  a  fine  climate 


jib  yss/y/A-~/rs  iiisTony  Am>  inhabitants.    35 


:b 

"I 


The  other  part  of  the  country,  in  grant!  contrast 
mountainous  region,  is  made  up  of  the  immense  plains  of 
Tcmbicn  and  Shoa,  from  loc»  to  1500  feet  high,  and  much 
of  llicm  a  saniJy,  burning,  and  unhealthy  region.  There  is 
great  difference  in  the  people,  climate,  soil,  productions, 
and  animals.  In  the  high  lands  you  Tind  a  hardy,  bold,  and 
comparatively  rich  Christian  people,  of  lighter  complexion 
than  most  other  tribes  ;  handsome,  intelligent,  and  thjckl/fl 
settled  in  numerous  cities  and  villages.  In  the  lower  lands  ■ 
you  Rnd  a  portion  of  the  people  Mahometan,  with  a  much 
darker  skin,  disposed  to  be  nomadic  and  turbulent,  morej 
scattered,  and  with  fewer  villages.  It  is  a  country  which] 
borders  chiefly  on  the  Red  Sea,  in  which  also  live  the 
Dankils  and  Taltals.  Throughout  Abyssinia  the  produc- 
tions arc  in  many  respects  the  same,  but  it  is  in  the  low 
lands  that  you  find  cotton  and  the  tropical  fruits,  such  as 
oranges,  bananas,  and  citrons.  It  is  only  here  that  you  see 
the  curious,  unsightly,  and  knotted  boab-trce,  so  often  seen 
in  tropical  and  torrid  Africa.  It  is  of  immense  size,  and 
though  its  trunk  is  comparatively  stumpy,  it  takes  fifteen 
men  to  span  it,  while  it  spreads  over  considerable  ground 
with  its  enormous  and  fantimtically  twisted  branches.  The 
bark  is  rough  and  warped  like  the  skin  of  the  elephant,  and 
in  vegetable  life  it  is  what  he  is  in  the  animal^ — the  grandest 
production  in  Africa,  Covered  by  many  knobby  protuber- 
ances which  are 'its  succulent  m.atter  hardened  by  the  air, 
its  Fibrous  substance  crumbles  to  dust  under  the  influence 
of  water  and  air.  The  vegetation  of  Africa,  like  its  great  ^ 
deserts,  is  sombre.  Though  many  of  its  trees,  like  thi 
boab,  are  of  great  sixe,  in  beauty  and  magnitude  they 
unlike  those  of  America.  Nor  arc  its  (lowers  as  varied  anc 
beautiful  or  as  highly  perfumed  as  they  arc  in  the  new 
world.  Natural  forms  of  all  kinds  arc  heavy  and  inelegant ; 
and  the  soft,  crumbling  boab  and  kolkual  take  the  place  of  ^ 
the  symmetrical  and  grand  old  oak  and  the  tall,  graceful 
with  its  airy  and  beautiful  nodding  plume. 


rcat 
an4^l 


Jio     ABYSStNtA—ITS  IttSTOKY  AND  tNHABITAf/TS. 

Though  there  is  apparently  great  divereily  of  Mcea  in 
Abyssinia,  of  which  wc  shall  speak  more  fully  hereafter, 
this  is  the  cITcct  of  accidental  causes  and  of  proximity  to 
the  African  tribes.  It  is  generally  understood  among  com- 
petent ethnologists  that  the  people  who  inhabit  northeast- 
ern Africa,  called  Abyssinians — the  GalUs  and  Somalis  and 
those  who  have  sprung  from  them,  like  the  Tallals,  Adils, 
and  DankiU,  and  many  of  the  Nubians  and  Bucharis— belong 
to  one  family  under  the  name  of  Cushitcs,  not  limited  to 
Africa,  but  extending  to  southern  Anibia,  even  to  the  Gulf 
of  Omar  and  the  lower  Euphrates.  In  the  low  Linda  bor- 
dering the  Kcd  Sea,  from  November  to  March,  owing  to 
constant  rains,  it  is  comparatively  pleasant.  For  the  rest 
of  the  year  it  is  without  a  drop  of  rain  ;  there  is  no  brecic, 
and  it  is  hot  and  sultry  in  the  extreme,  with  fatal  epidem- 
ics. From  thirty  to  forty  miles  distant,  on  the  tahlc-lands, 
during  the  winter  months  there  is  no  rain,  and  from  its 
altitude,  3000  to  6000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  this 
region  enjoys  the  perfection  of  climate.  Beginning  in 
April,  there  arc  rains  in  these  table-lands  every  day,  accom- 
panied by  thunder  and  lightning,  the  sky  about  two  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  opening  its  floodgates,  and  closing  them  at 
five  o'clock.  The  mornings  arc  bright  and  sunny,  the 
nights  clear  and  brilliantly  lighted  by  glittering  stars,  of 
which  the  Southern  Cross  is  the  most  resplendent  constella- 
tion. Though,  like  Mexico,  in  the  tropics,  the  climate  of  a 
large  area,  by  reason  of  its  altitude,  is  very  temperate  and 
equable.  There  is  no  country  where  one  day  is  so  like 
another,  and  where  there  is  more  of  what  may  be  called 
eternal  spring.  If  this  region  has  any  winter,  it  is  our 
summer.  When  the  sun  passes  into  the  northern  hemi- 
"iphere,  and  sends  its  rays  more  perpendicularly,-  nature  so 
provides  that  rains  come  and  temper  the  otherwise  burning 
heat  of  the  tropics.  As  already  statcti,  the  winters  are  dry, 
and  scarcely  a-  drop  of  rain  ever  falls,  which  makes  it  the 
'  poetry  of  seasons,"  better  than  that  of  Egypt. 


.^ 


ABYSSIXfA—ITS  ff/STVXY  AND  INHABITANTS.     311 

On  the  plateaus  of  the  interior,  for  a  month  before  the 
rains  come,  there  is  constant  and  vivid  lightning  at  night, 
apparently  with  a  clear  sky,  and  often  during  both  day  and 
night  there  is  rumbling  like  that  of  the  thunder  accompany- 
ing an  earthquake  ;  again  at  times  like  the  discharge  of 
cannon  in  the  distance.  Some  time  before  the  fighting 
between  the  Egyptians  and  the  Ab>'ssinians  began,  duiing 
our  campaign,  this  noise  wan  heard  in  the  dircclion  of  Bahr- 
Rczza.  on  our  line  of  communication  with  the  coast,  and 
Katib,  the  commander  of  the  Egyptian  army,  listened  to 
its  muttcrings  with  great  anxiety,  thinking  it  might  be 
caused  by  the  disturbance  of  his  troops  in  that  direction. 
Another  phenomenon  consists  of  frequent  whirlwinds,  which 
portend  rain.  I  remember  one  passing  from  the  south  over 
the  valley  of  Gura,  accompanied  by  great  volumes  of  dust, 
carr>'ing  with  it  our  tents,  clothing,  and  papers.  These 
winds  spend  their  force  usually  against  the  Khaya  Khor 
mountains  in  the  north.  Tn  the  desert,  where  Ihcy  have 
free  scope  and  last  for  hours,  they  are  very  much  dreaded, 
particularly  by  the  supertttitious  Arabs,  who  believe  that 
the  Evil  Spirit  thus  takes  the  form  of  a  sand-cloud. 

The  rains  early  in  the  summer  cause  torrents,  tearing  the 
mountain-sides  and  bringing  along  with  them  soil,  rock,  and 
trees.  The  numerous  dry  beds,  so  universal  at  this  season, 
arc  so  suddenly  swollen  into  deep  rivers  that  the  inhabi- 
tants and  animals  are  sometimes  caught  in  them  and  ■ 
drowned.  Lake  Tiana,  in  lat.  il"  and  Ion.  55",  about  the 
centre  of  Abyssinia,  is  one  of  the  basins  kept  full  by  these 
summer  rains,  or  rather  by  the  streamlets  running  into  ft  ■ 
from  the  mountains,  6000  feet  high.  Here  the  Hkic  Nile 
takes  its  rise.  This  is  the  great  river  of  Abyssinia,  which, 
as  it  flows  in  its  raging  course  through  the  mountains  and 
valleys,  carries  the  disintegrated  matter  which  it  collects, 
and  that  of  a  greater  number  of  smaller  streams  which 
empty  in  it.  Joining  in  the  great  desert  ofthe  Soudan,  in 
lat.  16°,  Ion.  51",  with  the  White  Nile  as  it  comes  from  the 


Jia      ABYSSINIA— ITS  IIISTOKY  AND  INHABITANTS 

Equator,  the  two  now  one  penodicany  flood  the  banks  of 
the  Nile  in  its  immense  length,  and  finally  depOAit  their 
surplus  water  in  the  Mcditcirancan.  [n  Lower  Egypt 
science  controls  their  waters  by  a  simplified  system  of 
canals,  used  from  the  earliest  Pharaonic  times  to  the  pres- 
ent day.  The  other  important  rivers  are  the  Atbara,  an 
nflfluent  of  the  main  Nile,  and  Tacaue,  a  branch  of  the 
Atbara.  These  streams  also  assist  in  the  great  work  of  fur- 
nishing soil  and  flood  for  the  Nile.  There  is  another  river, 
called  the  Mareb,  which  loses  itself  in  the  sands  of  the 
desctt.  It  is  in  these  mountains  of  Abyssinia.  10,000  to 
15,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  that  great  numbers 
of  small  streams  take  their  rise,  and  through  which  Js  pre- 
cipitated the  immense  mass  of  moisture  condensed  on  them 
which  comes  from  the  Red  Sea,  Arabian  Gulf,  and  Indian 
Ocean.  In  the  late  spring  and  early  summer  the  mountain 
streams  and  rains  flood  the  greater  arteries  beneath  with 
such  force  that  it  is  not  surprising;  that  they  tear  the  soil 
and  disintegrate  granite,  filling  the  rivers  so  rapidly  that 
the  people  of  the  country  arc  often  drowned  in  their  wild 
flood.  These  waters  roll  over  vast  deserts  on  their  way  to 
the  Nile  of  Egypt,  swelling  the  dry  beds  of  the  rivulets  so 
suddenly  that  the  flood  rises  in  a  single  night  from  twenty 
to  thirty  feet. 

Among  the  Abyssintans  there  are  few  regular  merchants, 
tradesmen,  or  shopkeepers.  Each  ras  or  great  man  has 
among  his  attach^  people  who  do  his  bidding  and  furnish 
him  with  most  that  he  requires.  The  women  make  nearly 
everything  used  in  the  family.  They  make  the  pottery 
and  clothing,  grind  the  grain,  cook,  wash,  nurse  the  chil- 
dren, and  labor  in  the  field.  The  men  manufacture  weap- 
ons, fashion  the  granite  stones  with  which  the  women  grind 
the  grain,  work  in  wood,  and  are  always  ready  to  use  the 
lance. 

Abyssinia  proper  Is  divided  into  several  grand  divisions — 
Tigre,  the  richest,  most  populous,  and  powerful  ;  Amhara 


Asyssw/A—/rs  ///sToxy  asd  inhabitants.    313 


and  Scmicn,  the  next  in  strength  ;  Shoa.  Hamzcn,  Ogoulo- 
Goussai,  Gojam,  and  Agaos  next  in  order.  Besides  these 
arc  many  minor  dependencie*.  EacK  or  these  provinces 
has  ai  its  head  .1  ras  ox  prince,  who  inherits,  or,  a.-(  is  often 
the  case,  seizes  power.  These  powerful  princes  owe  a  sort 
of  feudal  allegiance  to  the  king.  They  pay  ttibute  in  men 
and  money,  unless  military  scn-icc  is  required,  in  which 
case  the  king  is  supreme.  His  call  is  instantly  obeyed  or 
they  feci  his  sword. 

In  the  absence  of  the  raz  these  grand  divisions  are  man* 
aged  by  a  governor,  called  a  MtslaHnh.  The  next  high 
officer  is  the  da^alch.  who  is  a  general  of  an  army  corps  or 
governor  of  a  smaller  province.  A  thoum  is  the  chief  of  a 
still  smaller  district ;  alaka  is  the  name  of  lieutenant,  and 
basilar  is  equal  in  rank  to  a  coqioral.  The  government 
being,  as  I  have  said,  feudal,  the  king  is  the  central  figure, 
around  which  all  others  revolve  in  case  of  war,  when  mili- 
tary service  is  required.  In  war  the  ras,  who  furnishes 
the  men  and  money,  commands  the  troops  from  his  own 
province.  As  he  sits  nearest  the  king  in  peace,  so  he  rides 
next  to  him  in  battle  ;  the  most  powerful,  Welled  Sellassie, 
ras  of  Amhara  and  Scmien,  taking  precedence.  DifTer- 
enccs  are  settled  among  themselves  by  a  resort  to  arnns, 
though  the  king  often  interferes  and  decides  according  to 
his  judgment.  So  long  as  the  chiefs  give  men  and  money 
the  king  has  nothing  further  to  say.  But  claiming  power 
by  descent  (almost  all  have  had  an  ancestor  on  the  throne), 
these  fcud.il  lords  are  constantly  mixed  up  in  bloody  insur- 
rections. The  king,  knowing  that  fear  and  force  are  his 
surest  friends,  is  always  on  the  qui  t'itv. 

Innumerable  small  game  like  guinea-fowls,  quails,  pin- 
nated grouse,  bustards,  gazelles,  deer,  and  various  species 
of  antelopes  arc  found  everywhere,  while  over  vast  stretches 
of  country  the  grander  fauna  roam  in  undisputed  posses- 
sion. The  elan,  wild  boar,  ostrich,  eagle,  giraffe,  buffalo, 
rhinoceros,  wild  cat.  leopard,  hippopotamus,  lion,  and  ele- 


514     ABVSSm/A-/TS  HiSTOKY  AND  INHABITANTS. 

phnnt  ofler  to  tlie  sportsman  the  finest  fields  in  the  world. 
The  birds  and  animals  arc  all  easily  approached  by  man,  as 
the  natives  rarely  hunt  them  or  u»e  firearms  when  they 
do.  I  have  been  in  most  of  the  fine  hunting  grounds  of 
Florida,  Texas,  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains^ 
and  California,  but  ]  have  visited  no  country  where  there  is 
such  a  variety  of  game  and  so  much  of  it  to  be  found  with- 
out hunting  for  it  i.%  in  Abyuinia. 

Forages,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  striking  episodes  of 
a  short  bright  period  when  the  Portuguese  introduced  the 
germs  of  Ctvllieation,  about  the  middle  of  the  fiftccntb 
century,  Abyssinia  has  been  the  home  of  a  semi-baibarout 
people.  ClAiiiiing  to  be  Christians  «ince  the  third  century, 
they  have  villages  and  towns  such  as  they  are  ;  huts  to  live 
in,  but  only  a  degree  above  those  of  the  savages  of  North 
America.  They  raise  a  small  grain  called  ttff  {Poa  Abys- 
anka),  very  nutritiouit,  and  the  doura  {Sorgo  panUfum  tl 
Indicum),  barley,  and  Indian  corn,  and  cultivate  them  for  a 
bare  subsistence.  They  have  numerous  horses,  broad 
horned,  hump-backed  lunall  cnttlc,  goats,  and  sheep;  the 
latter  animal  is  impeded  in  its  walk  by  its  enormous  fat 
tail.  The  cattle,  sheep,  and  gaots  arc  used  for  food. 
They  have  little  poultty,  and  raise  few  or  no  vegetables  or 
flowers. 

Internal  dissensions  frequently  ending  in  bloody  wars 
furnish  the  Abyssinians  with  excitement.  They  carried  on 
at  one  time  a  brisk  trade  in  slaves  with  Egypt,  now  to  some 
extent  stopped  ;  a  similar  trade  with  Arabia  and  other 
provinces  of  Asia  is  still  prosperous.  They  doom  any 
Mahometan  enemy  or  pagan  who  falls  into  their  power  to 
the  most  fearful  slavery.  They  do  not  hesitate  to  take  the 
life  of  the  slave  belonging  to  them  when  it  suits  iheir 
capricc.  and  their  galling  servitude  is  worse  than  death. 
They  often  sell  their  own  people  into  slavery,  particularly 
their  young  women,  who  are  famous  for'beauty  of  face  and 
form.     Urave  and  adventurous  irt  the  past,  they  carried 


ABVSSimA~ITS  HISTORY  AND  INftABlTANTS.     315 


(Iieir  victorious  arms  into  Arabia,  and  succcsstully  defended 
their  mountain  homes  against  the  Saracenic  hordes. 

Maiicttc  Bey,  the  learned  hieroglyphist,  tells  us  that  i 
early  as  the  twelfth  Pharaonic  dynasty,  about  3000  H.C.,  the^ 
country  was  the  scene  of  bloody  wars,  in  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  epochs  of  ancient  Egypt.  It  was  under  the  power- 
ful monarch,  Osurtarsin  I.,  that  the  Egyptian  way  extended 
beyond  the  First  Cataract,  the  site  of  Assouan.  "  unto  the 
utmost  limit  of  Abyssinia."  After  that  Abys.*ini;i  was  to 
ancient  Kgypt  what  the  Soudan  is  now  to  modern  Egypt. 
The  hieroglyphics  tell  us  that  "  it  was  part  of  the  country 
of  Cush  or  Ethiopia,  without  precise  limits."  It  is  so 
now  as  then.  Without  unity  of  organization  or  territory, 
Ethiopia  nourished  a  numerous  population  of  diverse  oii{pn 
and  race,  but  the  bulk  of  the  nation  was  formed  by  the 
Cushites,  people  of  Semitic  blood,  who  at  an  epoch  un- 
known to  history  crossed  the  Straits  of  Bab-el-Mandcb  (the 
mouth  of  the  Red  Sea),  and  possessed  themselves  of  the 
Upper  Nile.  Thothmes  III.,  than  whom  no  Pharaoh 
mciits  more  the  title  of  great,  according  to  the  poetic  idea 
of  the  time,  "  placed  his  frontiers  where  It  pleased  him," 
extended  his  empire  over  Abyssinia  proper,  and  appointed 
a  governor-general  there.  Though  it  is  true  that  the  Cush* 
Iteit  and  Ethiopians  are  not  mentioned  on  the  monuments, 
yet  as  early  as  the  sixth  dynasty,  not  long  after  the  build- 
ing of  the  great  Pyramid,  they  speak  of  getting  negroes 
from  the  wild  and  turbulent  tribes  of  the  upper  Nile  and  of 
bringing  them  into  Egypt  to  drill  them  as  soldiers  to  invade 
Asia.  Lord  Valentine,  a  noted  man  who  travelled  in 
Abyssinia,  thinkjii  that  the  people  of  Ethiopia  were  colonists 
or  refugees  from  Egypt,  who  conquered  and  mingled  with 
the  aborigines. 

The  obelisk  now  at  Axum,  near  Adua,  the  capital  of 
Abyssinia,  and  a  few  stones  with  Greek  inscriptions  are  the 
only  monuments  remaining,  so  far  as  has  been  discovered, 
o(  the  ancient  people.     The  obelisk  is  of  granite,  and  much 


3l6     ABYSSJX/A-ITS  HISTORY  AND  tNHABlTANTS. 


resembles  those  of  ancient  Egypt.  Salt,  another  traveller 
in  Ab}-ssinia.  thinks  it  was  erected  in  the  time  of  the 
Plolcmics.  as  its  order  is  stiictly  Grecian.  It  is  an  elegant 
shaft  of  Eoliil  granite,  sixty  feet  high,  and  compares  favor- 
ably with  monuments  of  the  kind  that  arc  to  be  found  else- 
where in  the  world.  All  its  ornamentation  is  in  bold  relief, 
and  the  hollow  space  running  to  the  top  makes  it  unri- 
valled in  lightness  and  elegance.  The  Abyssinian  tradition 
is  that  it  was  erected  after  the  Christian  era,  but  it  is 
thought  that  the  workmen  then  were  not  equal  to  so  chaste 
and  highly  finished  an  undertaking.  In  Abyssinia  was 
found  an  old  chronicle  called  the  "  Tari-Naguensti,"  which 
giveii  a  long  list  of  ancient  kings,  and  mentions  the  name 
of  Queen  Mak^da.  Many  learned  scholars  believe  that  it  isfl 
intended  for  the  Queen  of  Sheba.  The  tradition  is  that 
Makcda  went  to  Jerusalem,  made  the  acquaintance  of  Solo- 
mon, and  gave  birth  to  a  son  whom  she  named  Menelek, 
and  that  this  son  returned  with  her  to  Ethiopia.  To  this 
day  the  name  is  preserved  in  their  royal  family,  and  Theo- 
dore, whom  the  English  fought,  though  really  a  plebeian, 
it  is  said  claimed  his  descent  from  Solomon.  He  was  prob- 
ably as  much  entitled  to  it  as  any  Abyssinian  monarch. 
There  is  no  question  that  the  Queen  of  Sheba  had  her  king- 
dom on  both  sides  of  the  Red  Sea,  that  she  resided  in 
Arabia,  and  got  her  gold  which  she  carried  to  Solomon  from 
either  Abyssinia,  where  it  is  now  found  on  the  Atbara 
River  and  its  branches,  or  in  the  Galla  country,  where  the 
Abyssinians  say  it  is  to  be  found.  ^ 

It  is  entertaining  to  hear  the  bareheaded  and  barefooted  fl 
Abyssinian  princesexprcss  their  indijipiation  that  the  power- 
ful Christian  monarchies  of  the  world  permit  the  Mussul- 
man to  outrage  them  in  their  weakness.  They  say  that 
Solomon  was  their  great  progenitor,  and  that  they  too  were 
once  strong.  They  glory  in  the  belief  that  theirs  is  the 
oldest  royalty  in  existence,  and  that  all  others  compared 
with  them  ^tc parvenus.     There  seems  to  be  some  evidence 


I 


ABYSSfmA—ITS  HISTORY  AND  rSHABITANTS.     317 

of  the  fact  that  they  were  Jews  before  they  beome  Chris- 
tians. It  is  a  Strang'*  fact  that  a  number  of  them,  who  live 
by  themselves,  workers  in  brass  and  gold,  arc  Jews.  They 
pretend  that  Meneick  brought  from  Jerusalem,  together 
with  the  laws  of  Moscs.  the  foundation  of  their  laws  and 
religion.  As  evidence  they  cite  the  fact  that,  though 
Christiana,  a  part  of  their  faith  is  the  choice  of  meats,  the 
veil  of  the  temple,  and  circumcision. 

There  is  stitlanothcrmonument  in  Abyssinia  which  dates 
back  to  the  sixteenth  century.  It  was  originally  a  Catholic, 
but  now  a  Coptic  church — a  splendid  work  of  those  famous 
Portuguese  explorers.  Though  not  so  ancient  as  the 
obelisk,  it  still  calls  forth  the  admiration  of  the  traveller,  as 
a  fine  relic  of  the  past.  It  differs  from  all  others  in  Abys- 
sinia as  much  by  its  form  as  in  its  dimensions.  It  ia  vast 
in  extent,  and  twice  as  long  as  broad.  It  is  massive  in  its 
construction  and  entirely  of  stone.  The  facade  is  orna- 
mented in  its  front  by  a  broad  gallery,  which  is  set  off  by 
colonnades  surmounted  by  a  triangular  front.  It  is  ap- 
proached by  broad  granite  steps.  It  bears  evidence  of 
strength,  while  all  its  parts  arc  in  just  harmony.  Like 
everything  the  Portuguese  touched  in  that  day,  it  bears  the 
impress  of  a  strong  and  vigorous  people.  This  church  has 
within  It  several  pictures,  among  others  a  tolerable  one  of 
St.  Geo(ge,  their  patron  satnt.  They  also  pretend  lo  have 
in  it  the  "  table  of  the  law,"  which  Mcnclck  Solomon,  the 
son  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  stole  out  of  the  temple  and 
brought  with  him  to  Ethiopia. 

It  was  in  the  fourth  century  that  Abj'ssinia  was  Christian- 
i7cd  by  St.  Trumcntlus.  Following  subsequently  the  teach- 
ings of  St.  Eutychus,  the  apostle  of  the  Coptic  religion  of 
Egypt,  and  acknowledging  only  the  Patriarch  of  Alexandria 
as  the  head  of  their  Church,  they  receive  to  this  day  their 
bishop  or  abouna,  which  means  "father  of  the  people," 
from  the  patriarch  who  resides  at  Alexandria. 

There  is  a  MS.  still  preserved  among  the  Abyssinians, 


Ji8      ABySSW/A~ITS  mSTOKY  A/fD  tSHABtTANTS. 

which  itatcs  as  «n  historical  fact  that  in  the  sxth  century 
ihcy  conquered  lower  Arabia.  Subsequently,  hoivevcr, 
they  were  driven  from  Arabia  by  the  Mussulmans,  who  fol- 
lowed up  their  success  and  established  on  the  coast  of 
Abyssinia  the  kingdom  of  Zeila,  but  never  conquered  the. 
seat  of  Abyssinian  power,  though  it  lies  only  200  miles 
from  Mecca.  In  the  tenth  century  a  colony  of  Jews 
crossed  the  Red  Sea,  conquered  the  country,  and  reigned 
for  more  than  two  centuries  in  Abyssinia.  It  was  then  that 
they  got  their  Mosaic  rites  and  the  impress  of  Jewish  feat- 
ures so  distinctly  marked  among  the  people  of  to-day.  which 
particularly  distinguishes  many  of  their  leading  men. 
During  this  Jewish  era  the  Solomonian  dynasty  took  refuge 
in  Shoa.  The  usurpers  being  subsequently  driven  from  the 
throne,  many  changes  followed,  all  the  pretenders  claiming 
descent  from  Mcnclck  up  to  the  time  of  Theodore,  who 
occupied  the  throne  when  the  English  invasion  took  place. 


CHAPTER  m. 


HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS   IN  ADVSSINIA. 

The  PortugucR  io  Abyisinia — [QWresiinj{  remains odhciroccupalioR — Ter- 
rible religioui  (cuds— The  ii»e  ol  Thcodorui  and  his  dclcdi  bj  the  Eng- 
lish—King  John's  jicccMiun  lo  powei  -  Phyoral  lype  of  Ihc  Abystinian 
— Collume  nnd  otnamtnis— The  Abptiiitnn  women  — Law  inil  ils  ad- 
iDlalsiraiion—Panlshmcnl  (or  homicide,  the(^  etc.— The  lunciion  of  ibe 
Abouna  or  MeltopoUtan  —The   Teligioiu  cc«<d— Uonogamy  and  mar. 

Itf  the  age  of  mcdia-val  romance,  soon  after  the  discovery 
of  America,  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
Portugal,  then  the  great  navigating  nation  of  the  world, 
sent  Chtistophirr  de  (iama,  brother  of  the  illustriou.t  Vasco, 
to  aid  Abyssinia,  a  Christian  country  at  that  time,  in  a 
death  struggle  with  the  Saracenic  invader.  The  brave  ad. 
venturer,  taken  prisoner  by  Granier,  the  Sultan  of  Adat,  in 
the  midst  of  victory,  perished  a  martyr  to  his  faith  and 
chivalric  devotion.  Remaining  in  the  country,  the  Portu- 
guese constnicted  the  famous  church  at  Axum.  the  great 
palace  at  Gondar,  the  bridge  across  the  Blue  Nile,  and 
other  stone  buildings  scattered  through  Abyssinia,  now 
suffered  to  go  to  decay.  But  little  is  left  of  the  work  of 
that  extraordinary  people.  The  Blue  Nile,  or,  as  the  Abys- 
sinians  call  it,  the  Abbai  (the  Father  of  Waters),  is  about 
1200  feet  wide  where  it  leaver  Lake  Tzana.  Like  the  take 
it  is  bordered  by  several  miles  of  fertile  valleys  covered  with 
umbrageous  trees  and  vegetation.  Then  it  shoots  into  the 
bottom  of  an  escarped  valley  formed  of  basaltic  roctc.  where 
the  waters  rush,  foaming  with  a  loud  noise,  bounding  from 
one  fall  to  another  until  finally  the  river  becomes  a  raging 
torrent  dashing  from  side  to  side  against  its  rocky  indosure. 


I 

I 


jao 


HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS  tN  ABYSSIN/A. 


It  Mon  enters  a  oarrow  and  deep  defile,  its  murat  precipices 
at  times  not  more  tlian  eight  or  ten  feet  apart.  Across  this 
raging  stream  tlic  I'oituguese,  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
sixteenth  ccntur>-,  constructed  a  massive  stone  bridge. 
Though  sadly  torn  by  time  and  the  effect  of  water,  and  its 
crevices  opened  by  creeping  parasites,  it  is  still  standing, 
patched  though  scarcely  repaired,  and  connects  the  impor- 
tant provinces  of  Amliara  and  Godjam,  The  architecture 
is  massive  and  bold.  It  has  proveil  indispensable  to  the 
military  necessities  of  the  Abyssinian  kings  in  keeping  dis- 
tant provinces  not  only  united  but  under  complete  subjcc> 
tion.  On  the  Amhara  side  is  a  massive  round  tower,  built 
of  the  same  blackish  rock  used  in  the  construction  of  the 
bridge.  This  tower  is  situated  on  a  point  of  rocks  near  the 
bridge  and  defends  it&  approaches  on  either  side.  Though 
the  tower  and  bridge  are  of  immense  strategic  importance, 
the  savages,  who  give  but  slight  heed  to  the  future,  have 
for  ages  allowed  the  work  of  the  Portuguese  gradually  to 
fall  into  ruin. 

From  the  heights  of  the  Nile  the  mountains  of  Godjam 
are  seen  looming  in  the  distance.  At  the  head  of  a  smalt 
stream  which  takes  its  rise  in  these  mountains,  and  is  one 
of  the  sources  of  the  Nile,  not  far  from  the  town  of  Mota^J 
stands  an  isolated  peak  called  the  Devil's  Mountain.  There* 
are  numerous  legends  of  its  being  the  abode  of  evil  spirits, 
and  few  dare  .icalc  its  wait-like  precipices.  Thcodorus,  the 
former  king,  who  had  fits  of  insanity,  determined  upon  one 
of  these  occasions  to  storm  the  citadel  of  the  devil  and  his 
imps,  in  due  form,  with  cannon  and  shot.  He  bombarded 
the  rock  for  several  hours  in  the  presence  of  his  army, 
sending  his  men  to  count  the  dead.  They  reported  that 
there  were  none  on  the  field.  In  consequence  he  pro- 
claimed the  death  of  his  Satanic  Majesty,  and  declared  that 
the  dead  had  been  carried  off,  perfectly  satisfied  that  he 
could  not  only  destroy  men  on  earth,  but  the  darkened  in- 
habitants of  another  world. 


nABITS  Ah'D  CVSTOMS  IN  ABYSSmiA. 


321 


The  residence  of  the  Portuguese  in  Abyssinia  resulted  in 
bitter  rch'gious  controversy  between  the  Catholics  and  the 
loliowers  of  St-  Eutychus.  First  Rome  and  then  Alexan- 
dria held  the  reins  of  power  ;  one  or  the  other  had  to  fly  to 
inaccessible  mountain  clifls  for  safety.  After  one  hundred 
and  forty  years  of  desperate  struggling  the  Catholics  suc- 
cumbed, and  the  abouna  sent  by  the  Patriarch  of  Alexan- 
dria, whom  they  acknowledged,  has  since  been  the  head  of 
the  Church.  The  Portuguese  either  perished  or  were 
driven  from  the  country,  and  with  them  disappeared  the 
advance  that  had  been  made  in  civilization. 

Their  constant  religious  wars  had  so  weakened  the  king- 
dom that  it  became  the  object  of  dispute  between  rival 
chiefs— Ali  at  Adua  as  Raz  of  Tigrc,  and  Obei  atGondaras 
Raz  of  Amhara.  In  the  midst  of  their  lively  controversy, 
Thcodorus  (called  Kassa),  a  man  without  pretension,  but 
bold  and  audacious,  entered  upon  the  scene  of  action,  and 
very  soon  cut  the  Gordian  knot.  Heading  a  rebellion,  he 
began  with  Ali,  Raz  of  Tigrc.  As  a  stroke  of  policy  he 
captured  Ali's  mother,  and  then  compromised  with  him  by 
returning  her  and  receiving  in  exchange  and  in  marriage 
the  sister  of  Ali.  Tliis  was  followed  by  a  revolt  in  which 
Thcodorus  was  captured  ;  but,  always  fertile  in  expedients, 
he  assassinated  his  conqueror.  This  gave  him  at  once  great 
power  and  influence,  and  enabled  him,  in  1855,  to  proclaim 
himself  king  of  kings,  under  the  name  of  Thcodorus.  The 
king  of  Shoa  dying,  he  annexed  that  province  and  silenced 
all  other  opposition,  and  for  the  first  time  in  many  years 
the  sceptre  of  all  Abyssinia  wa.t  wielded  by  a  single  chief. 

Thcodorus,  who  more  than  any  other  modem  Abyssinian 
monarch  except  King  John  attracts  our  attention,  was 
crafty  and  cruel.  When  free  from  his  occasional  fits  of 
insanity,  he  u-as  politic,  able,  brave,  and  determined. 
Thinking  his  power  greater  than  that  of  any  potentate  on 
earth,  he  seized  and  imprisoned  the  English,  French,  and 
German  consuls  and  all   Europeans  within  his  kingdom, 


3«« 


AND  CUSrOUS  W  AB  vss/mA. 


without  any  pretext.  He  made  outrageous  demands  as  : 
condition  for  their  release.  Feeling  secure  in  his  inaccessi- 
ble mountain  fortresses,  he  thought  the  chastisement  he  so 
richly  deserved  could  never  reach  him.  The  English  made 
friends  with  Kassa,  afterward  King  John,  and  other  leading 
men  who  were  tired  of  the  cruelty  of  Thcodorus,  They 
marched  upon  and  captured  the  rock  of  Magdala,  where  the 
king  in  fatal  security  awaited  them.  Rather  than  fait  into 
the  power  of  the  English  he  shot  himself  through  the  head, 
and  wax  found  dead  when  the  fort  was  entered.  After  the 
English  left,  Abyssinia  had  three  claimants  for  the  throne. 
For  the  following  account  of  the  success  of  King  John  1  am 
indebted  to  General  K.,  an  Englishman  who  remained  near 
him. 

The  first  of  the  claimants  was  Kassa,  now  the  R.az  or  Prince 
of  Tigre,  a  bold  and  determined  chief,  young  and  ambitious, 
who  resided  at  .Adua,  his  capital.  Though  his  people  did 
not  speak  the  same  language  as  those  of  the  greater  portion 
of  Abyssinia,  yet  he  claimed  the  whole  country.  Menelek 
was  in  declared  independence  at  Sho.i.  Gobassic  assumed 
all  the  prerogatives,  and  called  himself  King  of  Gondar,  the ' 
ancient  capital,  and  lived  in  the  old  palace  built  by  the 
Portuguese  as  an  evidence  of  his  royalty.  Boasting  of  the 
immediate  command  of  60,000  soldiers,  he  thought  it  an 
easy  matter  to  crush  his  weaker  opponents.  He  soon  con* 
fronted  Kassa,  the  most  formidable,  at  a  round  mountain, 
near  Adua,  well  situated  for  defence.  With  the  aid  of  the 
Englishman  already  named,  Kassa  placed  his  sm.!!!  army  of 
12,000  or  15,000  men  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  one  line 
above  another,  concealing  them  behind  rocks  and  trees  so 
as  to  let  his  entire  army  have  *'  full  sway"  (to  use  the  ex- 
pression of  General  K.)  upon  the  army  of  Gobassie  on  the 
plain  below,  Gubassie,  at  the  head  of  his  army,  chaiged 
this  position.  His  horse  was  killed  in  the  attack,  and  felt 
upon  him.  His  army,  thinking  their  chief  had  succumbed, 
were  seized  with  consternation.     Kassa  charged  and  routed 


HABITS  Ai^D  CUSTOMS  /JV  ASVSSI/flA. 


them,  making  their  king  a  prisoner.  The  humane  punish- 
ment of  filling  his  ears  with  powder  and  at  once  blowing  his 
head  to  pieces  was  proposed  ;  but  Kasaa,  to  commemorate 
his  accession  to  the  throne  by  an  act  of  generosity,  as  he 
styled  it,  merely  ordered  his  e>"es  to  be  burned  out.  This 
unfortunate  man,  chained  to  a  rock,  died  on  the  eve  of  our 
coming  to  the  country.  Thus  the  triple  sceptre  fell  into 
the  hands  of  Kassa  under  the  name  of  King  John. 

The  Abyssinians  arc  tall  and  wiry,  with  complexions 
ranging  from  that  of  a  bright  mulatto  to  ebony  black ; 
regular  features,  with  the  lower  part  of  the  face  somewhat 
prognathous.  The  hands  end  in  finely  tapered  fingers. 
Innocent  of  shoes,  their  feet  are  small  and  well  shaped,  often 
cambered.  The  hair,  which  is  dbposcd  to  be  straight,  is 
dressed  wiUi  butter.  This  peculiar  use  of  butter  is  not 
confined  to  the  Abyssinians,  The  wild  Arab  and  the 
African  savage  do  the  same  thing.  The  observer  who  visits 
this  distant  countr>-  will  find  not  only  in  this  but  in  many 
other  things,  habits  similar  to  those  attributed  to  the  people 
of  the  Old  Testament. 

Nothing  delighLi  the  Abyssinian  more  than  to  feel  the 
melted  butter  with  which  he  so  copiously  anoints  his  head, 
coursing  with  its  unctuously  softening  influence  down  his 
naked  back  and  shoulders.  There  is  sound  reason  for  the 
custom.  Exposed  to  the  broiling  sun,  it  prevents  his  skin 
from  cracking  and  gi%-c3  it  a  glossy  appearance.  With 
neither  hat  nor  shoes,  and  with  back  and  legs  bare,  he  wcar% 
simple  cotton  drawers  around  his  loins.  Over  his  person 
the  Abyssinian  chief  or  man  of  wealth  throws  the  kauria. 
This  is  made  of  white  cotton,  in  form  iike  the  Roman  tog,i 
with  a  broad  red  stripe  through  the  middle.  In  this  grace- 
ful drapery  he  looks  as  dignified  as  an  ancient  Roman.  He 
is  never  seen  without  his  sharp-pointed  lance  and  his  shield 
of  rhinoceros  skin  embossed  with  silver  and  bras».  He 
wears  a  heavy  curved  su'ord,  like  a  scythe,  sharp  on  both 
sides,  and  often  carries  an  old-fashioned  shotgun  and  pistol. 


I 
I 


Ja4 


HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS  ttT  ABYSSINIA. 


He  wears  his  sword  on  the  right,  mounts  his  horse  on  the 
same  side,  riding  with  the  big  toe  in  the  stirrup.  An  Ab>'s- 
einian  on  the  march  is  never  seen  out  of  a  dog  trot.  Start- 
ing at  dayhght  at  the  rate  of  (our  mites  an  hour,  he  finishes 
his  uninterrupted  march  at  twdve  o'clock,  making  thirty 
miles.  The  commissary  and  forage  supplies  are  brought  in 
daily.  The  army  feeds  upon  the  country.  If  the  people 
hide  or  refuse  provisions,  or.  If  the>'  happen  to  be  opposed 
to  the  king,  they  are  treated  to  the  torch.  The  women 
wear  numerous  silver  and  brass  anklets,  and  very  large 
«lvcT  rings  in  the  upper  part  of  the  cars.  The  young  belle 
who  would  be  particularly  coquettish  dyes  her  gums  a  lead 
color  and  her  naibarcdtiish  brown.  The  women  are  hand- 
some, with  large  liquid  eyes,  which  light  up  their  delicate 
features.  They  have  small,  pretty  hands  and  feet,  and 
are  in  form  symmciricil  and  in  color  lighter  than  the  men. 
Admirers  of  the  fair  Abyssinians  have  said  th.-it  they  are 
like  "rich  bronze  statu«,"  and  "that  their  pretty  hands 
would  arouse  the  jealousy  of  many  modern  belles. "  The 
woman  is  the  beast  of  burden,  as  among  all  scmi<civiliKcd 
and  barbarous  people. 

The  warrior  scorns  labor,  and,  in  consequence,  his  wife 
cultivates  the  soil,  carries  the  young  braves  upon  her  back, 
bears  the  pots  and  kettles,  and  cooks  the  dinner  for  her 
liege  lord;  goes  into  battle  with  him,  sings  the  \var-cry, 
and  urges  on  the  fight.  If  he  is  wounded  or  killed,  she 
bears  the  warrior  from  the  field  singing  the  song  of  triumph. 

The  Abyssinians  administer  justice  in  a  measure  accord- 
ing to  the  Mosaic  law.  When  murder  is  committed  or  one 
kills  another,  it  matters  not  in  what  manner,  his  life  as  a 
rule  pays  the  forfeit.  If  punishment  is  not  inflicted  by 
higher  authority,  the  village  to  which  the  dead  man  belongs 
claims  the  right  of  vengeance. 

The  result  is  that  there  are  blood  feuds  between  villages, 
so  that  in  many  instances  they  have  no  intercourse.  When 
3  case  of  homicide  comes  to  trial,  the  Kaz  sits  in  judgment. 


tfABtrS  AXD  CUSTOMS  Itt  ABYSSINIA. 


iH 


and  the  last  appeal  is  to  the  king.  For  minor  ofTcnccs  the 
rhinoceros  hide,  made  into  what  the  Arabs  call  a  kvurbask, , 
a  terrible  instrument  of  torture,  is  applied.  The  parti 
appearand  plead  their  own  cause  with  great  vehemence  and 
violent  gesticulations.  Dr.  Johnson,  who  was  attached  to 
the  stafT  under  mc,  and  whom  I  knew  well,  gives  a  ludicrous 
description  of  the  Abyssinian  who  captured  him  in  battle, 
and  who  had  the  right  to  take  his  life  in  accordance  withJ 
Abyssinian  laws.  While  his  captor  was  explaining  the"^ 
affair  to  Kaz  Welled  Scllassie,  an  Abyssinian  prince  to 
whose  tribe  he  belonged,  the  doctor,  though  his  life  hung 
upon  a  thread,  could  not  help  laughing  at  the  tremendous 
activity  and  gesticulation  of  this  individual.  The  Kaz.  sur-« 
prised  at  the  doctor's  merriment,  caught  his  eye  and  smiled 
sympathcticiilly.  Dr.  Johnson  thinks  he  made  the  R:kz  hisi 
friend  and  thus  siivcd  his  life.  The  case  being  decided,  it 
matters  not  which  way.  the  one  that  loses  gets  the  ieur- 
bask,  the  Raz  being  always  determined  that  justice  shall  not 
be  cheated.  For  stealing  and  for  treason,  when  life  is  not 
taken,  the  punishment  is  to  have  the  hand  amputated  at 
the  wrist  and  the  foot  at  the  ankle.  Officers  always  attend 
to  inflict  these  punishments,  and  the  skill  and  rapidity  with 
which  they  unjoint  with  a  rough  knife  is  wonderful,  Th< 
wounded  members  arc  dipped  immediately  into  boiling'' 
butitrr,  and  in  a  fewdays  a  cure  is  effected.  For  debt  and 
other  olTcnces  of  a  like  ch.iractcr  a  fine  is  imposed.  It 
often  happens  that  the  mulcted  one  cannot  pay.  The  suc- 
cessful suitor  takes  no  promises,  and  the  only  chance  of  the 
other  for  escaping  a  fearful  punishment  is  to  find  some  one 
to  become  his  security.  The  bondsman  becomes  one  in-i 
reality,  and  is  chained  to  the  debtor.  The  twain  then  beg 
through  the  country  until  the  merciful  give  them  enough  to 
pay  the  penalty. 

When  a  prisoner  is  seized  his  clothes  are  tied  to  hi 
person  ;  if  he  slips  out  of  them  and  runs,  it  is  proof  positive 
of  his  guilt.     Salt   thinks  this  shows  why  Potiphar  put'' 


3»6 


IfABITS  AND  CVSTOMS  IV  ABYSSWTA. 


Joseph  in  prison.  Madame  Potiphar  had  his  garments: 
proof  positive  of  his  guilt  and  of  the  justice  of  Judge 
Potiphar  in  his  decision. 

Some  of  their  religious  rites,  as  nearly  as  they  could  be 
learned,  arc  as  follows  :  The  abouna,  of  whom  something 
has  been  said,  is  alu'ays  appointed  from  the  monks  of  Egypt 
by  the  Patriarch  of  Alexandria.  One  poverty  stricken  is 
generally  chosen  to  wear  the  mitre.  He  is  a  powerful  pre- 
late, holding  the  thunder  of  excommunication  in  his  hand, 
and  no  people  are  more  superstitious  about  their  faith  or 
stand  in  greater  awe  of  the  bolt.  The  abouna  has  an  assist* 
ant  bishop  called  etcfialria,  always  a  native,  who  shares  the 
power  of  anathematizing  with  him.  The  people  consider 
these  persons  holy.  Even  the  law  and  the  vengeance  of 
kings  deem  them  sacred  and  bow  before  them.  Their 
vestments  are  said  to  be  rich  and  gaudy.  The  only  part 
described  to  me  was  the  head-dress  of  the  aboun.-i,  seen  by 
Dr.  Johnson  while  he  was  with  their  army.  From  its  enor- 
mous size  and  culre  appearance,  in  color  and  form,  it  must 
have  resembled  one  that  the  distinguished  adjutant  of  my 
regiment  had  made  many  years  ago,  on  the  Columbia  River 
in  Oregon,  for  his  drum-major.  The  poor  drum-major  wore 
it  once  and  then  deserted.  He  was  caught  and  pleaded 
guilty,  giving  what  he  thought  a  sufficient  reason — viz.  the 
fear  of  wearing  that  hat  again. 

The  Abyssinians  declare  that  they  are  under  the  special 
protection  of  the  Almighty,  and  that  the  Holy  Virgin  and 
Sa^nour  will  never  let  the  foreigner  conquer  and  take  posses- 
sion of  their  countrj'.  Baron  de  Cosson  gives  the  following 
idea  of  their  creed  as  represented  by  Gregory,  an  intelligent 
Abj-ssinian  priest  who  visited  Europe  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  and  in  his  opinion  their  catechism  docs  not  differ 
from  that  of  two  hundred  years  ago  : 

"Qu*ttien.  What  God  do  /ou   worship?    Ansnirr.  The  Father, 
Son,  and  Holy  Ghost,  three  persons  In  one  Dciiy. 
"Q.  Of  ihc»c  three  persons,  wliich  is  the  first,  which  the  Ust ;  which 


HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS  IN  ABYSSlh'lA. 


3*7 


tbe  ^eat«»t.  which  Ihc  least  ?  A.  There  is  do  perion  fint  or  last,  no 
person  superior  or  inferior,  but  all  equal  In  all  things. 

"Q.  How  m.iny  persons  ?    A.  Three. 

"Q,  How  many  gotis  ?    A.  One. 

"Q.  How  many  kingdoms  ?    A.  One. 

"Q.  How  many  powers  ?    A.  One, 

"Q.  How  many  creatort  ?    A.  One. 

"g.  How  many  wills?    ,^.  One. 

"Q.  Is  God  limiled  by  time  }  ^.  No ;  lor  He  Is  from  all  etemitjr 
and  sh»ll  endure  to  all  etcmjiy, 

"Q.  Where  is  God?    A.  Everywhere,  and  In  all  things. 

"Q.  Is  not  the  Father  God  ?    A.  Yes. 

"Q.  Is  not  the  Son  God  ?    A.  Yes.       ' 

"Q.  Is  not  the  Holy  Ghost  Cod  ?    A.  Yes. 

"Q.  Dost  thou  not  therefore  say  there  arc  three  gods?  A.  I  do 
rot  s.iy  three  gods,  but  three  Persons,  and  one  only  God. 

"Q.  Who  begot  the  Son  ?  A.  Cod  the  Father  ;  but  the  Holy  Ghost 
proceeds  from  the  Father,  and  takes  from  the  Son. 

"Q.  I'ray  showme  some  similitude  how  three  persons  can  be  in  one 
Dei^  7  A.  The  sun,  though  but  one  substance,  yet  in  htm  are  three 
distinct  things,  rotundity,  light,  and  heat :  thus  also  we  believe  that  In 
one  God  there  arc  three  Persons,  the  Father.  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost, 
equal  in  all  things. 

"Q.  Of  these  three  Persons,  which  was  bom  lor  our  redemption  ? 
A.  The  second  Person—vii.  the  Son  of  Cod,  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ. 

"Q,  How  m.iny  nativities  had  He  ?    A.  Two. 

"Q.  Which  were  they  ?  A.  His  first  nativity  was  from  the  Father, 
vritliout  mother,  without  time ;  the  second  from  the  Virgin  Mary,  our 
Lady,  without  father,  in  time  and  always  remaining  a  virgin. 

"  Q-  Is  Jesus  Christ  our  Lord  a  man.  or  is  he  truly  God  ?  A.  God 
and  man  both  in  one  Person  without  separation  and  without  change, 
without  contusion  or  co-mixitirc." 


I  would  call  attention  to  the  curious  illustration  of  the 
sun  to  instruct  uncivilized  man.  St.  Patrick  is  said  to  have 
used  the  threc-Ieaved  shamrock  to  illustrate  the  Trinity  to 
the  pagan  Irish.  Abys,sinians  believe,  a-s  I  have  written,  in 
circumcision,  the  choice  of  meats,  and  in  the  veil  of  the 
temple.  They  administer  communion  with  leavened  bread, 
sometimes  with  the  old,  but  generally  with  freshly  squeezed 
juice  of  the  grape.     All  present  press  the  forehead  against 


CHAPTER   IV. 

START  OF  THE  EGYPTIAN  EXPEDITION  FOR  ABYSSINIA. 

The  author  arderol  lo  C&fro  lo  Uk«  command — He  i«  ttittwuii  ccptaccd  bj 
Ratib  PuchB  and  maile  second  in  auihortty— Dcbatca  over  ihe  expedi- 
tion In  the  Khcdlve'i  cuuncll— Sketch  of  Nubir  Pacha,  the  Ptirac  Min- 
ister—Cherif  pHChiL.hi»  (ivui— The  injanciionlmpreMcdon  RMlb  Pacha 
— Otganiuiion  of  the  fiifM» — Preparation  for  the  caropaixn — OS  for 
the  field— Tmoipoit  over  the  Red  Sea— Turmoil  at  MaMcnah — Do- 
Mcipiion  of  the  lonn. 


The  writer  was  ordered  to  Cairo  about  the  ist  of 
December,  1875,  and  informed  that  he  w.ts  to  command  an 
expeditton3r>'  force  into  Abyssinia,  caused  by  the  unfort- 
unate affair  of  Arrcndrup,  an  account  of  which  had  just 
been  received. 

This  was  at  night,  and  I  was  instructed  to  be  in  Cairo  the 
next  morning.  Upon  my  arrival  I  was  informed  that  the 
commander  was  changed,  and  that  I  was  to  go  as  second 
in  command  and  as  chief  of  staff,  for  the  reason  that  it 
was  thought  that,  the  army  being  all  Mahometans,  it  was 
more  prudent  to  have  one  of  that  faith  in  command. 
Having  been  a  long  time  in  the  country  and  never  in  war 
during  my  service  there,  t  was  not  disposed  to  make  fac 
tious  opposition,  now  that  there  was  prospect  of  active 
service. 

Ilut  I  was  surprised,  upon  reading  the  statement  relative 
to  the  command  of  this  expedition,  which  was  new  to  me, 
and  not  believing  it  to  be  true,  I  wrote  to  the  chief  of 
staff  of  the  Egyptian  army  for  the  facts,  and  received  the 
following  reply  : 


330 


EGYPTIAff  EXPEDITION  FOK  ABYSSlf/lA. 


**  As  for  your  election,  it  wu  in  this  wise.  Arrendnip  had  been 
defeated  and  Itilled.  It  was  necessary  to  send  a  new  force  and  a  new 
commander.  1  proposed  ]rou  as  the  commander,  and  at  first  Nubar 
Pacha  supported  Diis  ;  but  aher  several  o(  the  ministers  had  talked  in 
Turkish,  Nubar  told  me  that  a  Musaulman  Pacha  must  go  as  chief  In 
command,  and  you  must  go  ks  adviacr.  Then  I  demanded  that  you 
should  haire  the  distinct  position  of  chici  of  staS  of  the  cxpcdllionar^r 
corps  and  be  second  in  command.  Thus  it  was  arranged.  I  urged 
thai  you  were  accustomed  to  mountain  warfare  with  savage  tribes,  and 
Ihal  your  advice  must  be  acted  on  when  once  in  the  field." 

In  the  short  interval  before  setting  out  there  were  several 
meetings  of  the  high  officers  of  the  govemmeDt,  to  which 
General  Stone,  Colonel  Dye,  General  Field,  and  myself 
were  invited.  There  was  little  said.  General  Stone  pre- 
sented a  short  plan  of  the  campaign  proposed.  The  Khe- 
dive said  that  the  object  was  to  punish  King  John  for  the 
injury  done  to  Arrendrup's  command  and  for  other  out- 
rages. Nubar  Pacha,  Minister  of  State,  made  reference  to 
fortifying  in  the  vicinity  of  Adua,  the  capital  of  Abyssinia. 
He  was  very  urgent  that  as  soon  as  the  chief  object  was 
gained,  the  punishment  of  King  John,  the  war  should  end 
and  the  expedition  retiim  to  Kgypt.  With  his  usual  cau- 
tion, he  said  that  wc  should  be  particular  in  the  observance 
of  international  law.  Nothing  was  said  of  conquest,  and 
my  impressions  vtere  that  this  distinguished  minister  was 
opposed  to  the  war.  He  said  that  l^gypt  was  already  in 
sorrow  for  the  losses  in  the  Arrcndrup  afT.itr,  and  that  his 
household  was  in  deep  distress,  Arrikcl  Bey,  the  accom- 
plished young  governor  of  Massowah.  his  nephew,  who  had 
accompanied  the  expedition,  had  been  killed. 

Nubar  Pacha,  the  head  of  the  ministry  at  this  time,  was 
no  ordinary  man.  Born  an  Armenian  Christian,  and  living 
amid  great  temptation  from  his  earliest  youth,  he  never 
swer^-ed  from  the  faith  of  his  fathers.  Inheriting  a  large 
fortune,  he  had  added  greatly  to  his  wealth.  About  fifty- 
five  years  of  age,  of  medium  size,  with  a  round  full  face. 
large  black  eyes,  and  olive  complexion,  he  was  in  the  full 


I 


I 


I 


BCYPTJAh'  EXPEDITION  FOR  ABYSSiKlA. 


MI 


vigor  of  manhood.  Rapid  in  thought,  he  was  independent 
In  action  and  blunt  to  a  fault.  At  the  risk  of  royal  dis- 
pleasure he  never  swerved  when  the  truth  should  be  told. 
Nubar  consequently  earned  the  frowns  of  the  ruler  he 
served.  Commencing  when  a  boy  under  Abbas  Facha,  and 
speaking  and  understanding  all  modern  languages,  he  be- 
came  the  head  of  the  ministry  under  S-nVd  Pacha,  and  for 
many  years  continued  under  the  regime  of  Ismail.  No 
Eastern  man  had  a  more  exalted  reputation  among  Euro- 
pean statesmen.  No  real  benefit  has  ever  come  to  Egypt 
in  the  last  thirty  years  to  which  he  did  not  give  his  powerful 
aid,  and  which  through  him  was  not  carried  successfully  to 
its  results.  The  establishment  of  the  international  courts 
came  about  through  his  instrumentality.  These,  while 
they  curbed  the  arbitrary  power  of  the  sovereign,  and  1 
think  in  some  respects  did  him  wrong,  placed  a  check  ujxin 
the  unlimited  sway  of  the  consular  agents,  and  gave  the 
Eg>'ptian  at  least,  as  between  him  and  the  foreigner,  a 
court  to  which  he  could  safely  appeal  for  justice. 

I  noticed  the  Khedive's  bearing  in  the  debates  on  this 
Abyssinian  war,  to  which  Nubar  was  evidently  opposed, 
and  was  not  surprised  when  \  heard  that  the  minister  had 
left  the  Cabinet.  I  have  been  with  him  in  social  inter- 
course, and  have  felt  that  if  there  was  any  Eastern  craft  in 
him,  he  had  left  it  in  the  Cabinet.  1  found  him  ever  charm- 
ing in  conversation,  wearing  upon  his  placid,  smiling  face 
no  look  of  care.  As  he  sat  in  easy  Eastern  indolence,  you 
could  never  believe,  if  the  fact  were  unknown  to  you,  that 
there  lurked  beneath  his  seeming  indifference  an  ability  and 
an  independent  energy  in  which  no  man  In  the  East  n-as 
his  cquaL 

As  I  shall  incidentally  refer  to  the  slave-trade  in  the 
course  of  this  narrative,  it  is  well  to  show  how  Europeans 
aided  in  it,  and  how  the  Khedive  appealed  to  them  to  aid 
him  in  stopping  it.  When  the  Khedive  was  in  Europe, 
accompanied  by  Nubar,  and  visiting  London,  the  chief 


334  BGYPTtAH  SXPEDtTIOff  FOR  ABYSStSIA. 

General  Stone,  chief  of  staff  of  the  Egyptian  army,  the 
proper  official  to  confer  with,  that  men,  material  of  war, 
commissaries'  and  quartermasters'  supplies,  anil,  above  all, 
transportation — camels,  horses,  and  mules^-should  be  fur- 
nished in  the  shortest  possible  time.  I  had  a  full  and  com- 
plete understanding  on  all  these  matters.  During  these 
conversations  General  Stone  stated  that  the  force  was  to 
condst  of — 

Men.        Hor«».     Hide*. 

Four  regiments  of  iafaniry  oj  three  battal- 
ions each,  aggregating 9w6oo  68  710 

One    regiment   ot    cavalry    of    ibe    Guard 

(sabres) Soo         909 

Two  field  baturics,  one  of  brass  and  one  o( 
steel,  of  ^  pieces  each,  calibre  about 
seven  centimetres  ;  two  mountain  bat- 
teries, and  one  rocket  battery 474  54  334 

One  company  of  sappers  and  miners  (after- 
ward increased  to  live  companies) tjo  66  im 

Tbe  gen  era] -in -chief,  cbiel  of  staff,  two  gen- 
erals  of  brigade,  two  colonels,  three  licu- 
tenant-coionels,  six  majors,  two  captains, 
five  !leutcnants,  and  fourteen  soldiers, 
constituting  general  headquarters J&  9>  50 

Total 11.060       1,1  iS       i,)04 

One  of  these  regiments,  that  of  Kourchid  Bey,  was  com- 
posed of  blacks.  There  was  to  be  added  to  this  the  remains 
of  the  command  of  Arrendrup,  then  at  Massowah,  which 
would  increase  the  force  to  twelve  thousand  men.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  was  a  command  of  twelve  hundred  men  at  San- 
hcct,  on  the  frontier  of  Egypt  and  Ab)-ssinia,  which  was  ex- 
pected to  act  in  concert  with  us.  I  will  mention  here  that 
there  was  in  Egypt  an  American  officer.  Colonel  Lockctt, 
whom  I  knew  to  be  a  man  of  rare  ability,  one  of  the  most 
accomplished  engineers  in  any  service.  From  his  close 
study  of  the  mountainous  country  to  which  wc  were  going. 


EGYPTIAtf  EXPEDTTIOX  FOR  ABYSS/X/A. 


335 


I  Telt  that  he  would  be  a  valuable  acquisition.  As  he  uas 
anxious  to  go,  his  detail  was  applied  for,  and  when  ordered 
to  join  the  staff,  he  put  his  high  scientific  knowledge  to 
great  use  during  the  campaign.  The  staff,  which  was  placed 
under  my  orders  as  chief,  in  most  instances  was  acceptable. 
I  was  not  consulted  ;  had  I  been,  I  should  have  requested 
some  changes,  but  as  it  was  I  had  no  alternative  but  to 
serve  with  just  such  officers  as  were  ordered  to  report  fojr 
the  purpose. 

Colonel  Lockctt  had  been  graduated  from  the  Military 
Academy  at  West  Point,  and  was  in  the  Engineer  Corps  of 
the  U.  S.  Army  before  the  Confederate  war.  Casting  in 
his  fortune  with  the  "  lost  cause,"  he  was  distinguished  in 
that  war  for  many  achievements  in  his  profession  and  for 
great  courage  on  occasions  when  called  upon  to  execute  his 
important  duties.  There  was  no  officer  who  rendered  more 
valuable  services  to  Egypt  during  his  stay  there,  and  none 
was  more  appreciated  by  the  Khedive  or  more  regretted 
when  it  became  necessary  for  him  to  leave  for  his  home  in 
America.  1  h.id  looked  forward,  in  case  of  a  fight  with  the 
Abyssinians.  to  having  the  assistance  of  Colonel  Locket  I ; 
but  like  General  Field  .ind  Major  Dcnniaon,  officers  whose 
services  were  much  needed,  and  upon  whom  I  relied  for 
valuable  aid,  he  was  unfortunately  detained  with  the  troops 
expected  to  join  us. 

General  Stone  had  received  a  long  communication  from 
Abb^  Duflot,  a  Catholic  priest  who  had  lived  more  than 
nine  years  in  Abyssinia.  It  furnished  a  perfect  picture  of 
the  country,  delineating  its  trails,  mountains,  and  rivers, 
its  dclilcs  and  passes.  There  was  nothing  left  for  military 
men  to  desire  in  order  to  select  the  proper  road  through 
which  to  enter  Abyssinia  ;  and  before  leaving  Cairo.  General 
Stone  and  myself  had  thoroughly  studied  the  country  and 
had  determined  upon  the  road  that  ought  to  be  taken,  of 
course  leaving  it  to  me  to  make  further  inquiry  on  my 
arrival  in  the  country.     I  found  upon  rcachins  Abyssinia 


M6 


EGYPTIAN  BXPEDirJO.V  FOK  ABYSSIN/A. 


and  studying  the  country  that  the  conclusions  reached 
Cairo  were  right. 

On  our  departure  several  of  the  xctysA  family,  ministers, 
and  the  relatives  of  those  who  were  going,  came  to  say 
their  last  farewell  and  wish  us  bom  voyage.  Kccei\-ing  final 
instructions  from  General  Stone,  who  bore  the  Khcdivv'-t  last 
orders  at  Suez,  we  embarked  in  the  steamer  Dchaliyah  with 
Ratib  Pacha,  the  staff,  and  a  portion  of  the  command.  I 
left  in  the  fervent  hope  that  the  sanguine  wishes  of  the 
Khedive,  who  had  so  much  at  stake,  might  be  gratified.        , 

We  were  now  upon  the  Red  Sea,  sailing  gayly  over  the 
track  that  tradition  marks  out  as  that  whicli  the  Israelites 
took  in  their  exodus.  A  bouquet  of  date-trees  distantly 
defined  the  Asiatic  shore  and  pointed  us  to  the  "  Well  of 
Moses,"  the  ramp  tliitt  celebrated  people  made  at  their 
final  crossing. 

It  was  not  long  before  the  Mahometans  on  board,  pros- 
trating themselves  at  tlieir  evening  prayers  with  their  faces 
in  the  direction  of  Mecca,  warned  us  that  we  were  passing 
the  theatre  of  their  jjrcat  Prophet's  action.  Rising  on  the 
distant  horizon  we  could  clearly  distinguish  the  lofty  peaks 
of  the  Sinattic  range  of  mountains.  Passing  along,  our  at- 
tention was  called  to  the  site  ol  the  ancient  city  of  Tor,  with 
the  remains  of  its  old  Roman  fort,  which  at  that  time  held 
the  Bedouin,  the  wild  man  of  the  desert,  in  awe.  On  the 
African  shore  was  Dcrcnice,  built  by  the  Ptolemies,  once  a 
great  mtrtpit  of  commerce  and  Eastern  travel,  now  with 
scarcely  an  object  left  to  tell  us  where  the  famous  city 
stood. 

After  four  days'  broiling  "  under  a  heaven  of  fire"  we 
arrived  at  Massowah.  The  harbor  is  good  and  the  water 
clear  and  deep,  yet  it  would  be  dtdicult  for  a  large-size 
merdiant  ship  of  modern  times  to  swing  round  in  it. 
Pincus  was  said  to  have  held  all  the  navies  of  the  world  in 
the  early  da)'s  of  Greece  :  it  is  likely  that  the  bay  of  Mas- 
sowah held  all  that  of  Ethiopia.     The  town  is  buitt  on  a 


SCYPTJAN  EXPP.niTlQN  FOR  ABYS^NIA. 


337 


I 


small  coral  island  about  one  mile  in  length,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a  causcn-ay  of  the  same  length. 
This  answers  the  purposes  of  communication,  and  serves  to 
conduct  water  for  the  supply  of  the  islands  from  a  place 
called  Matoumla.  four  or  live  miles  distant.  This  water, 
though  unpalatable,  is  the  bcit  to  be  had. 

The  town  was  the  scat  of  commerce  for  Ethiopia ;  now 
it  is  a  miserable  little  village,  insignilicant  in  site  and  in 
everything  that  dignifies  the  abode  of  men.  Upon  landing, 
our  motley  crowd,  of  all  nationalities,  soon  sought  shelter 
in  tents.  The  Catholic  convent  is  the  most  striking 
object  there.  The  bishop  at  its  head  was  one  of  those  sclf- 
sacrificing  men  whose  life  in  the  wilds  of  Africa  i*  one  of 
constant  danger.  Simple  and  beautiful  in  character,  it  was 
a  pleasure  to  meet  him  in  this  out-of-the-way  place.  The 
convent  is  a  large  structure  near  the  sea.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  two  or  three  government  buildings  and  a  few 
bastard- Moresque  residences,  this  delectable  place  is  a  col- 
lection of  miserable  conical  thatched  huts,  each  covered  with 
a  itort  of  mat,  the  abode  of  insects  and  reptiles.  The  streets 
arc  so  narrow  that  you  have  to  walk  Indian  file  in  them. 
Sanitary  measures  are  unknown.  The  smcl!  of  rancid 
butter  used  upon  the  heads  of  the  inhabitants  in  a  burning 
climate  was  in  complete  harmony  with  the  exhalations  from 
all  other  sources.  At  the  landing  we  saw  at  a  glance  the 
commerce  of  the  town  :  it  is  an  mtrepdt  for  the  interior  of 
Africa.  Large  ivory  tusks,  gum  arable,  senna,  ostrich- 
feathers,  with  a  supply  »(  wild  animals  and  beautiful  plumed 
biids,  plainly  indicated  commerce  with  the  equatorial  re- 
gions.  Monscigncnr  Bouvicr,  several  French  priests,  the 
vice-consul  of  France,  and  two  or  three  traders  were  the 
only  Europeans  there.  Besides  a  number  of  Banyans. 
Bcitish-Indian  Mahomct.an  traders,  the  rest  of  the  popula- 
tion were  Shohos,  bclr>nging  to  a  Mahometan  tribe  who 
live  a  sort  of  migratory  life  in  the  mountains  a  short  dis- 
tance back  and  in  the  high  lands  along  the  shore  of  the  Red 


338 


KCYPTIAlf  EXPEDITION  FOR  ASYSSttitA. 


Sea.  They  are  a  supple,  wcU-formcd  black  race  with  wc 
hair.  Saturated  with  buller,  this  shock  of  hair  stands 
straight  up  like  a  huge  mop  on  the  top  of  the  heaii,  and  has 
an  arrow-like  stick  run  through  it.  They  arc  constantly 
scratching  their  beads  with  this,  as  though  spurring  the 
parautic  inhabitants  to  activity.  Their  cotton  drawers  arc 
worn  from  the  waist  to  the  knees ;  a  sort  of  white  cotton 
toga  is  thrown  around  their  naked  back>t  and  shoulders ; 
sandals  on  the  feet  and  large  leathern  bracelets  above  the 
elbow,  with  Koran  charms  in  them,  complete  their  toilet. 
A  leather  belt,  with  a  knife  and  a  sword  shaped  like  a  reaper 
attached,  and  a  lance  and  shield  comprise  their  outlit,  as 
they  strut  about  in  warrior  fashion.  Luckily  wc  were  alt 
invited  by  Ahmed  Bey,  the  governor,  to  sliare  his  residence, 
a  well-constructed  building  on  the  intermediate  i&land,  a 
short  distance  from  Massowah,  and  connected  with  the 
main  causeway.  There  is  a  breeze  from  the  sea  during  the 
day  which  makes  the  climate  endurable,  but  the  mountains 
circling  round  these  islands  in  crescent  form  shut  out  the 
land  breeze  at  night,  and  then  it  becomes  fearfully  hot. 
Sleep  is  impossible  ;  after  remaining  up  during  the  night, 
the  perspiration  rolling  from  every  pore,  I  was  not  aston- 
ished that  the  people  who  live  here  look  so  miserable  and 
exhausted. 


CHAPTER  V. 
preparinc  for  the  campaign. 

Arrival  of  Prince  Hassan  lor  service  oo  ihe  swif— Luxury  ot  hi*  outfit— [Ml* 
cords  and  intrixuei  at  headquarters— Ahmed  Bey.  Governor  «(  H*a- 
■owah — Pressing  n«cd  ol  an  early  march  and  the  route  tielectcd — Delay 
from  the  difficutiy  in  gcilinjc  a  camel- irnin  -  Smrl  opjiosiiion  nf  Ratib 
Pacha  to  the  pfosccuiion  of  the  campai|;n-~Serraui  diScullie*  tthJcli 
the  chief  of  Etad  had  lo  meet—Arrival  of  relrued  pilsonert  and  a 
mcHenK^'r  f roni  King  John— The  horrible  condition  of  the  mutilated 
prisoners  and  the  cfleci  on  the  Efcyptiana — Detention  of  ibe  English- 
man Kirkham,  the  envoy  of  King  John,  as  b  prisoner— Kftlcbam's  sen- 
tlble  adncc. 

At  Massowah  we  were  joincti  by  Prince  H^issan.  the 
third  son  of  the  Khedive,  an  active,  stoutly  built  young 
man  of  twenty-two.  He  presented  a  letter  from  the  Khc> 
dive  asking  my  kind  attention,  and  another  to  Ratib  Pacha 
requesting  a  place  on  his  staff  for  him.  Partly  educated  by 
an  Engh'shmnn,  Hassan  was  sent  by  the  Khedive  to  Oxford 
by  advice  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  whence  graduating 
through  a  royal  road  to  learning  he  returned  to  Eg>'pt  in 
1873  ^^^  ^^  Bi  actor  in  the  noted  marriage  festivities  in 
that  year,  with  two  half  brothers  and  a  half  sister,  the  beau- 
tiful Fatima.  He  married  Khadigeh  Hannoum,  a  beautiful 
and  accomplished  young  lady,  the  granddaughter  of  Mc- 
hemct  .■\li,  and  a  few  months  later  went  to  IWrlin  and 
entered  the  Prussian  army,  the  Emperor  and  royal  family 
receiving  him  well. 

If  the  matter  hud  stopped  with  Hassan's  simply  being  a 
staff  officer  it  would  have  been  well,  but  Ratib  insisted  on 
showing  him  royal  honors  during  our  stay  at  Massowah. 
Tht-  greatest  possible  care  and  solicitude  were  shown  for 


340 


PKEPARING  FOR   THE  CAMPAICX. 


bim,  and  it  looked  iis  though  the  real  object  of  the  expedi- 
tion was  changed,  and  that  the  prince  hereafter  was  to  be 
the  strategic  point. 

One  of  the  eccentricities  of  his  advent  was  his  sumptuous 
table,  which  groaned  with  every  luxur)*.  He  was  kind  and 
hospitable,  and  1  was  iiivilcd  to  mess  with  him  during  the 
campaign.  Though  the  offer  was  tempting,  1  thoiigiit  best 
to  enjoy  the  frugal  repast  of  my  own  table,  as  I  had  fiup- 
plied  myself  with  a  fine  cook  and  many  good  things,  and 
was  really  independent,  even  of  the  government,  enough  to 
prefer  messing  alone  ;  besides,  he  scarcely  or  never  invited 
any  other  of  the  Americans  to  dine  with  him.  So  I  enjoyed 
dining  wilh  him  by  special  request  only,  a  courtesy  wliich 
in  his  good  nature  was  frequently  extended.  fl 

Another  motive  on  my  part  was  to  discourage  this  im- 
necessary  luxury,  ]  thinking  it  best  to  leave  all  this  display 
in  the  tear,  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  transport  at  toiM 
Ratib  Facha,  a  ban  vh-ant,  had  no  idea  of  losing  the  swcc^ 
things  of  the  prince's  table.  The  choice  viands  and  costly 
wines  hung  lingeringly  upon  bis  cultivated  palate,  and  hav- 
ing no  idea  of  making  war  if  he  could  help  it,  he  could  sec 
no  reason  why  there  should  not  be  a  "  How  of  soul  "  in  this_ 
princely  excursion  into  the  Happy  Valley  of  Abyssinii 
.All  these  interesting  incidents  occurred  amid  no  little  ctast 
tng  between  the  gencial  stalT  of  Ratib  Pacha  and  a  kind 
private  staff,  through  which,  to  our  astonishment,  he  wi 
in  the  habit  of  issuing  secret  orders,  which  conflicted  wit] 
his  "  regular  orders"  sent  to  the  army. 

While  engaged  in  harmonizing  these  discordant  elements, 
wc  were  startled  by  an  indignant  complaint  from  the  com- 
manding general  that  some  correspondent  in  the  army  liad 
been  erilici»ng  him  in  very  severe  terms,  and  that  the  ciitiS 
cism  had  reached  the  Khedive,  It  was  well  known  that 
those  at  court  were  the  peculiar  friends  of  Ralib  Pacha, 
and  consequently  evcr)'thiTig  sent  came  back  to  him.  A* 
such  a  thing  was  calculated  to  cause  distrust  in  one  nat 


PREPAHINC  FOR  TUB  CAMPAIGN. 


W 


ntlly  fluspicioiis,  I  told  him  all  I  had  wiittcn.  He  thought 
that  somebody  else  must  have  had  "  a  finger  in  the  pic," 
and  expressed  a  gtcat  fear  that  imprudent  communications 
might  get  into  the  papers.  I  had  great  difHcully  in  sooth* 
ing  his  troubled  spirit.  An  order  of  the  Khedive  directed 
that  all  correspondence  should  be  opened,  and  this  caused 
heart-burning  among  many  of  the  oHiccrs  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  campaign,  and  continued  to  its  close. 
This  fiesh  incident  did  not  ameliorate  the  unplea^nt  order. 
I  have  already  written  a  full  statement  of  (he  affair  of 
Arrendrup,  circumstantial  and  reliable  enough  to  place  bc> 
yond  doubt  that  Major  Dennison  and  Ruchdy  EfTendi,  by 
their  good  judgment  and  courage,  saved  the  survivors  of 
that  unfortunate  disaster.  The  young  governor.  Ahmed 
Bey,  nephew  of  Sadik  Pacha,  the  unfortunate  Finance 
Minister  of  the  Khedive,  had  been  sent,  on  the  death  of 
Arrikcl  Bey,  to  Massowah.  Without  thought,  and  before 
he  was  conversant  with  the  facts,  he  sent  a  telegram  to 
Cairo  saying  that  these  officers  were  in  fault.  On  my 
arrival  I  found  that  they  were  under  censure.  An  explana- 
tion from  myself  to  Ratib  Pacha  here,  which  I  got  from 
Major  Dcnnison,  and  a  letter  which  I  sent  to  Cairo,  put  the 
matter  at  rest  without  jmy  difficulty.  Ahmed  Bey  now  made 
another  effort  to  distinguish  himself.  Having  heard  of 
Ratib  Pacha's  sending  a  proclamation  to  the  people  of 
Abyssinia  disclaiming  any  idea  of  conquest,  he  thought  he 
too  could  send  one  that  breathed  fire  and  sword  against 
King  John  and  his  people  and  made  the  most  extraordinary 
demands.  Coming  to  mc  with  his  agreeable  smile  for  my 
I  signature,  the  intrigue  was  met  by  my  crushing  the  aspira- 
tions of  the  ambitious  young  gentleman.  He  gently  sub- 
sided. Becoming  afterward  the  pliant  intitniment  of  Katib. 
I  do  not  think  he  ever  made  another  attempt  to  distinguish 
himself. 

It  was  found  that  there  were  few  camels  at  Massowahr 
our  reliance  for  transportation.     Weeks  passed,   and  yet 


34  J 


PREPAklNG  FOR   THF.   CAMPAIGN. 


they  did  not  com«.  In  the  mean  time  the  necessity  fc 
seizing  .strong  places  in  the  mountains,  before  the  enemj 
could  gather  an  army  and  the  approach  of  the  rainy  season/ 
and  the  urgent  orders  from  Cairo  to  hurry  oitr  march  into 
the  interior,  gave  us  serious  concern.  Therefore  there  was 
a  necessity  (or  reducing  baggage  and  material  to  articles 
absolutely  needed.  Estimates  were  accordingly  made,  and 
places  on  the  route  selected.  The  admirable  and  reliable 
paper  already  referred  to  concerning  Abyssinia,  written  by 
the  Abbe  Duflot,  having  satisfied  both  General  Stone  and 
myself  that  the  direct  route  to  Khaya  Khor  and  the  Gura 
valley,  about  eighty  miles  from  the  coiist.  wa-t  by  the  way 
of  Yangoos,  Bahr  Rcz^a,  and  Addi  Rasso,  this  route  was 
determined  upon.  Immediately  on  reaching  Massowah 
and  conversing  with  Major  Raif,  one  of  Arrendrup's  party, 
who  bad  just  bcL-n  to  Khaya  Khor.  I  was  confirmed  in  my 
opinion. 

Ratib  Pacha,  who  had  also  fixed  upon  this  road,  had  the 
habit  of  spreading  out  a  large  map  and  inviting  the  Pachaa 
to  go  over  it  with  him,  and  he  vcr>'  often  pointed  out  the 
wrong  road.  Upon  being  corrected  in  this,  he  would  say 
tliat  he  did  it  because  lie  did  not  tvant  evcr>-  one  to  know 
the  road  he  intended  to  take.  There  is  one  thing  I  will 
mention,  because  it  aided  me.  In  the  East  ever^'body 
carries  a  seal,  and  the  humblest  Arab  wears  it  on  his  little 
finger;  it  is  the  sign-manual  and  evidence  of  his  bond. 
From  the  fellah  to  the  Khedive,  the  seal  is  the  signature, 
and  like  a  signature,  the  seal  is  authentic.  It  was  a  com- 
mon thing  for  me  to  give  my  seal  to  the  Americans  and 
most  of  the  Europeans  among  us,  to  facilitate  business, 
did  this  in  my  own  office,  as  it  gave  me  more  time  forJ 
reconciling  differences,  overcoming  obstacles,  smoothing'! 
ruffled  passions,  keeping  the  commanding  officer  in  good 
humor,  and  by  a  candid  course  with  him  thwarting  the ' 
petty  intrigues  of  the  marplots  who  surrounded  him.  The 
subject  of  transportation,  to  enable  us  to  move,  was  all  im-J 


PRBFAKING  FOR    THB  CAMPAIGN. 


343 


portant,  and  those  who  had  anything  to  do  with  it  were 
blamed.  Ahmed  Bey,  the  governor,  came  in  for  his  share 
of  abuse  for  delaying  it,  but  1  have  ceased  to  believe  him 
responsible.  Ratib,  all  powerful,  dictated,  and  the  gov* 
ernor  obeyed.  Largely,  too,  the  delay  was  not  only  the 
fault  of  the  system  of  government,  but  the  extent  of  coun> 
tfy  to  hunt  it  up  in.  Spread  over  sparsely  inhabited  re- 
gions like  the  Soudan,  the  Bedouins  must  be  hunted  before 
their  camels  could  be  got.  These  shrewd  men  of  the 
desert  dread  to  lose  their  animals,  and  at  the  fir»t  alarm  of 
war  they  drive  them  far  into  the  most  remote  and  inacces- 
sible places,  beyond  reach  of  the  pursuing  officer.  This  of 
course  involves  delay,  but  it  would  be  childish  raving  in  the 
Western  man  to  abuse  the  ruler  who  is  acting  from  the 
habits  of  ages,  because  he  and  his  people  do  not  change  in 
a  few  days  or  years  and  act  in  accordance  with  the  most 
approved  iorsEem  of  a  higher  civilization. 

Enough  camels  to  start  the  vanguard  of  the  command 
finally  arriving,  the  necessary  orders  were  issued  through 
the  chief  of  staff  by  the  commanding  general,  and  Osman 
Pacha,  with  a  command  of  over  3000  men  of  all  arms, 
began  the  advance,  and  General  Field,  inspector-general, 
the  ablest  and  most  experienced  officer  who  had  reported 
for  staff  duty,  with  Colonel  Mdkln,  another  able  man, 
were  assigned  to  duty  with  him.  Their  command  had 
hardly  left  before  the  private  Arab  staS  of  R.itib  Pacha, 
which  I  had  supposed  to  be  defunct,  turned  up  as  a  factor. 
Ratib,  forgetting  his  own  orders,  commenced  in  his  inexpe- 
rience a  series  of  instructions  to  Osman  Pacha,  conflicting 
with  those  already  given.  This  caused  some  confusion  and 
delay,  and  Katib,  apparently  very  repentant,  promised  to 
do  better  in  the  future.  This  performance  developed  the 
serious  and  important  fact  that  little  dependence  could  be 
placed  on  his  determination  or  promises.  Often  in  minor 
matters  I  humored  him  in  order  to  get  him  to  attend  to 
those  of  3  vital  character.     Very  often,  however,  in  vital 


5*4 


FREPASING  FOR   7ffE  CAMPAIGN. 


matters  he  went  in  direct  opposition  to  my  advice  and 
own  orilers  previously  jjivcn.     Tlie  opinion  was  forced  lipoid 
me  that  he  and  Osman,  both  being  opposed  to  the  cam^ 
paign,  took  secret  measures  to  delay  it,  thinking  to  deccivn 
me  in  the  lield  and  the  Khedive  at  home  by  their  apparent 
willingnc5!i.     After  a  barefaced  wrong  like  that  just  men^^ 
lioncd,  Ratib  would  proclaim  his  innocence  and  swear  b)H 
the  Prophet  it   should   never  occur  again.     Thia  state  of 
things  was  rather  ominous  at  the  outset  of  the  campaigr 
but  I  was  determined  to  force  it  through  with  the  aid  of  thi^ 
Americans,  if  it  could  be  done  with  the  assistance  of  thes 
able  officers  and  an  experience  of  over  forty  years,  much  ol 
it  in  just  such  war  as  this.     I  never  despaired,  to  the  \i 
moment,  of  inducing  the  commander  to  overcome  his  fears 
and  prejudices  and  be  guided  by  a  little  common-sense. 
Having  a  fine  army  well  armed,  I  knew  that  it  was  capable 
of  winning  success  if  properly  handled.     In  reading  thii 
book  I  he  reader  may  be  amazed  that  such  a  military  corned} 
as  the  one  I  speak  of  could  be  played  in  any  country  in  thii 
enlightened   age.     He   may  think  it  strange  that  I  should 
have  remained  throughout  under  such  an  ordeal ;  but  he 
may  have   already   surmised    the   motives   and    influences 
which  induced  me  to  stand  by  the  interests  of  the  Khedive 
to  the  bitter  end.  amid  surroundings  that  would  have 
caused  many  to  refuse  to  assume  the  slightest  responsibil- 
ity.    As  the  delay  caused  by  Ratib  affected  the  transpor 
tation,  I  will  state  that  before  leaving  Massowah,  in  Ofder| 
that  Ratib  and  his  lieutenants  might  know  the  precise  sit- 
uation, there  were  prepared  estimates  and  maps  of  roads, 
stations,  and  trails,  which  were  mentioned  in  an  elaborate^ 
report.     I  invited  Ratib  and  his  two  commanders,  Kaschid 
and   Osman   Faclias,   to  attend  and    have   everything   cx-fl 
plained  to  them.     In  talking  to  them  ihey  seemed  to  com-" 
prehend    Ihc   estimates,    but   paid    little   attention  to  the 
topography  of  the  country.     Ratib  with  only  a  modicum 
intelligible  French,  the  Pachas  knowing  only  Arabic,  a 


tie 

I 


I 


PREPAHISG  FOR    THE  CAMPAIGN. 


i45 


the  interpreter  knowing  but  little  of  cither  of  those  lan- 
guages, it  was  of  course  Oiflficult  to  m;ike  them  comptchcnd, 
under  any  circumstances,  what  the  cxplan.ilions  were. 
Ratib,  after  an  ignorant  cfToit  to  say  something,  finallygave 
it  up  and  sat  through  the  conference  with  the  imperturbable 
indifference  of  his  race  pictured  upon  his  quizzical  face, 
while  the  other  Pachas  looked  as  if  time  for  prayer  had 
arrived  and  iheir  pious  souls  hungered  for  the  performance 
of  that  important  duty.  Having  determined  at  the  outset 
on  the  Khaya  Khor  route,  I  frequently  advised  the  bring- 
ing up  of  the  troops  which  ivcrc  at  Sanhcit  and  on  the  fron- 
tier of  Bogos  and  Gallibat  to  operate  on  our  right  flank,  and 
particularly  to  Like  into  ihc  service  friendly  chiefs  and  their 
warriorjt,  there  being  several  of  them  who  were  hostile  to 
King  John.  Other  important  men  could  have  beer  in- 
duced to  aid  us,  but  for  some  unexplained  reason,  I  never 
could  tell  what,  this  was  not  done.  Shortly  after  our 
arriviil,  Kirkham,  an  Englishman  who  had  been  for  several 
years  in  the  service  of  King  John  in  Abyssinia,  came  to 
Masdowah.  He  was  sent  under  the  pretence  of  bringing 
back  to  us  as  a  peace-ofTering  an  officer  and  one  hundred 
and  five  prisoners  captured  in  the  Arrcndrup  affair.  His 
object  was  to  slip  through  our  lines.  Of  these  unfortunate 
people,  twenty-seven  were  horribly  mutilated.  Such  miser- 
able creatures  were  never  before  seen  in  war.  The  king 
had  two  objects  in  sending  these  victims  hack.  One  was 
the  hope  that  Katib  Pacha,  induced  by  app.irent  kindness, 
would  let  Kirkham  pass  through  with  his  letter  to  Queen 
Victoria  complaining  of  Egypt.  This  person,  fearing  the 
Egyptians,  remained  outside  of  our  lines,  and  sent  word 
with  the  prisoners  that  he  was  sorry  he  could  not  come 
with  them.  The  cunning  hint  of  the  king  fell  flat  upon 
the  car  of  the  Eg>'plian  commander,  who  determined  to  let 
no  one  pass  from  under  his  authority.  Another  idea  of  the 
king  was  that  this  savage  reminder  should  impress  the 
ignorant  Egyptian  soldiers  with  a  dread  of  what  they  might 


«« 


PKBPAXLVC  FOX  THE  CAJtfPAtCy. 


expect  from  tlie  cruelty  and  prowess  of  the  Abyssinian. 
This  well-timed  embassy  had  ihc  desired  effect.  In!itc;ul  of 
lashing  the  Egyptians  into  a  frenzy  of  righteous  indigna- 
tion and  the  desire  to  revenge  their  mutilated  comrades,  it 
filled  them  with  dismay  to  see  such  evidences  of  the  ferocity, 
the  bravery,  and  the  strength  of  the  enemy.  These  unfort- 
unate wretches,  in  telling  their  tale  of  sorrow  and  misery, 
too  painfully  marked  upon  their  persons,  did  not  fail  to 
exaggerate  the  courage  and  power  of  the  Abyssinians,  the 
diflicultics  of  advancing  Into  the  country,  and  the  almost 
certain  death  that  would  follow  the  attempt.  The  Egyp- 
tian oflicers  talked  with  bated  breath,  and  heard  the  con- 
versation of  these  people  with  the  soldiers  in  a  quiver  of 
suppressed  fear.  Altogether  it  was  a  sad  and  horrible 
scene,  and  most  damaging  in  Its  effects  upon  the  moralr  of 
the  expedition.  Some  savages  cut  off  the  heads  of  their 
enemies  ;  and  some,  like  the  North  American  Indian,  take 
their  scalps.  It  was  the  custom  of  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
even  in  the  reign  of  so  grand  a  Pharaoh  as  Usurtasen,  in 
the  ^lendid  era  of  civilization  in  the  twelfth  dynasty,  to 
mutilate  the  dead,  leaving  the  body  on  the  field,  carrying 
the  trophies  of  their  courage  to  the  king  to  be  counted 
and  engraved  on  the  temples  of  Thebes  and  Memphis, 
where  the  traveller  can  sec  them  to  this  day.  But  the 
Abyssinians  mutilate  the  living  in  the  same  manner. 

So  the  officers  of  the  Egyptian  army  commenced  bitterly 
deprecating  the  war,  declaring  it  unnecessary,  and  lament- 
ing that  they  were  all  to  be  killed.  They  said  that  Egypt 
had  more  land  at  home  than  they  could  cultivate,  and  that 
it  would  have  been  more  to  the  interest  of  their  country  to 
keep  the  army  there  to  till  the  soil  and  take  care  of  their 
suffering  families.  Officers  and  men  in  discussing  the  inva- 
sion saw  »n  enemy  behind  every  bush  and  rock.  The  pas> 
sage  through  mountain  gorges,  to  these  men  who  had  lived 
all  their  lives  in  the  level  lands  of  Egypt  and  were  unaccus. 
tomed  to  lofty  heights,  magnified  the  difficulties  of  the 


PREPARING  FOR  TUB  CAMPAIGN. 


M7 


advance,  their  fcnrs  preparing  them  to  believe  that  great 
rocks  would  be  hurled  down  upon  them,  every  step  dis- 
puted, and  no  man  allowed  to  escape.  It  \vas  not  long  be. 
fore  Kirkhnm  and  two  English  companions  who  were  with 
him  were  made  prisoners  by  our  outposts  and  came  into 
camp.  The  two  men  with  Kirkham,  by  the  name  of 
Houghton,  were  well-informed  Englishmen  who  had  strayed 
into  the  countrj-,  and  as  there  was  no  reliable  evidence  to 
satisfy  Rntib  that  they  had  taken  any  part  in  the  war,  he 
thought  bea-t  to  risk  the  imprisonment  of  one  Englishman, 
Kirkham,  and  let  the  others  go,  as  he  was  fearful  of  inter- 
national complications.  On  releasing  the  IIouRhtons  he 
asked  as  a  favor,  for  many  reasons,  that  1  would  treat  them 
kindly,  and  this  I  did  without  inconvenience.  The  impris- 
oned Kirkham  was  also  treated  kindly  and  was  often  vinited 
by  the  American  officers  during  his  conRnemcnt,  there 
being  no  severe  restriction  laid  on  him.  Mrs.  Bent,  with 
her  young  child,  the  widow  of  a  missionary  and  the  daugh- 
ter of  Dr.  Schimpffcr,  a  noted  German  botanist,  long  a 
resident  of  Abyssinia,  whose  wife  had  been  one  of  that 
people,  came  into  camp  at  the  same  time  with  Kirkham. 
She  was  immediately  released  when  these  facts  were 
known,  and  she  left  shortly  afterward  en  route  for  Jeru- 
salem. 

The  appearance  of  this  man  Kirkham.  dressed  in  an  old 
and  dilapidated  Engli-Oi  uniform,  was  that  of  one  utterly 
used  up  by  disease  and  dissipation.  An  adventurer,  he  had 
served  with  Walker  in  Nicaragua  and  with  Gordon  in 
China.  He  was  wounded  in  India,  had  been  a  steward  on 
a  Red  Sea  steamer,  and  then  a  general  in  the  army  of  King 
John  and  governor  of  one  of  his  province*.  Priding  himsdf 
upon  his  nationality,  he  was  indignant  that  an  ambassador 
from  the  "king  of  kings"  to  the  Queen  of  England  should 
be  put  into  captivity,  and  threatened  vengeance  against  the 
Khedive  for  his  violation  of  the  lavi-s  of  nations. 

Kirkham  said  to  me  in  one  of  his  conversations  that  King 


M» 


rXRFAKiSG  fox   Ttt£  CAMFAtCH. 


John  in  forty  or  maj  be  fifty  d^rs  vouU  have  a  fighttag 
force  of  o%-er  (0,000  men  ;  thai  be  was  reconcilii^  all  the 
chiefs ;  that  he  did  not  intend  to  move  from  near  Adua 
until  be  had  a  large  army  ;  and  that  if  we  expected  success 
wc  must  hasten  and  attack  him  before  the  Gallas,  the  Raa 
of  Sboa.  and  the  Raz  of  Godjam  coald  join  him  about 
the  time  already  stated.  He  said  that  while  be  hated 
the  Khedive,  it  would  depend  upon  circumstances  whether 
be  ever  returned  to  Abyssinia.  He  liked  the  Ameri- 
cans, aiKl  M-u  sorry  to  see  tbcm  in  the  country ;  and 
for  their  sake  he  would  advice  them  to  hurr>'  up  their 
movements.  These  statemcnu  proved  singularly  true. 
Ratib  Pacha  was  informed  of  them,  but  expressed  con- 
tempt  for  their  source.  He  declared  that  he  intended  to 
keep  poor  Kirkham  in  prison  until  finally  he  should  be  com- 
pelled to  feed  upon  the  insects  he  bred  upon  his  person. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  if  it  had  been  in  his  power  to  do  so 
he  would  have  executed  his  threat.  After  a  while  I  per- 
suaded Ratib  to  let  the  prisoner  walk  about  the  town  and 
visit  my  headquarters,  thinking  him  perfectly  harmless. 
On  the  return  of  the  army  to  Massowah  after  the  campaign 
he  was  still  a  prisoner,  and  was  possessed  with  the  idea  that 
he  was  being  poisoned.  He  was  taken  sick,  and  Colonel 
Lockett,  a  kind-hearted  gentleman  and  one  of  the  most  ac- 
complished of  our  American  officcTS,  devoted  much  of  his 
time  to  ministering  to  his  necessities.  He  had  htm  re- 
moved from  the  place  of  bis  imprisonment  to  the  Lutheran 
mission,  where  chanty  relieved  his  last  wants,  and  where  he 
died  before  we  left  the  country. 


I 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SOMETHING  ABOUT  THE  ORGAMZATION  AMD  PERSONNEL. 
OF  THE  EGYPTIAN  ARMY  AND  THE  ABYSSINIAN  EX- 
PEDITION. 


Tbe  baiis  o(  ihe  EsTplfan  ini]iUf7  force — Ettty  wrvlcei  o(  CelOflcl  S<n^ 
a  Mussulman  Fipnchman  — As»isncn«iils  (o  ilall  duijr— GeneiC  Stone's 
drfficulilct  in  :  uH  oiRanliation— The  Mini»(cti  of  Wir  jcoluuiol  the 
Eul-M'jur — K^tib'*  haired  of  (he  nuifl  (etvice-  Dracnprion  aad  >keuh 
of  Raiili— Uneaf  llic  mc»t  cowtinlly  mill  inrapatilc  of  cotnmandrr* — 
Somcihlnft  more  con<ernins  ihe  Amerkin  offitcis  in  Egypi— The  aii> 
ihoi'a  co'ineillcin  with  the  Khedive'*  Brniir  —  AwJgned  to  the  xtire 
com  mind  of  the  army  and  navy— The  Amciican  and  (oielBn  officetf 
a»]goeU  to  ihe  Abywinlan  expedition—The  Egyptian  italT. 

The  organization  of  the  Egyptian  afmy  as  wc  found  it 
wlicn  wc  went  to  Egj'pt  was  based  upon  the  French  system. 
There  had  been  a  staff,  but  there  was  nothing  left  of  it  on 
our  arrival,  and  it  became  necessary  to  organize  a  new  one. 

Colont:!  S£vcs.  an  oflficer  in  the  army  of  Napoleon  1.,  left 
France  after  tlic  fall  of  the  First  Empire,  offered  hi^  ser- 
vices in  1816  to  Mchemet  Ali,  and  organized  his  regular 
army.  E^ypt  had  been  torn  by  internecine  war  forccntu* 
rics,  her  fieMs  wasted,  and  her  population  reduced  to  two 
million  souls,  and  those  in  the  midst  of  starvation  and 
misciy,  when  he  took  charge  of  her  military  system. 

Mchemet  Ali  was  then  instilling  new  life  into  a  wretch- 
edly impoverished  countr>'  by  forcing  all  classes  to  culti. 
vatc  the  rich  soil,  and  in  the  mean  time  he  was  glad  to  avail 
himself  of  the  services  of  a  trained  soldier  to  organize  and 
discipline  his  forces.  It  wa.<i  that  army,  of  which  Colonel 
Sdvcs  was  chief  of  staff,  which  under  Ibrahim  Pacha  gained 
the  victories  at  St.  Jean  d'Acre,  Konieh,  and  other  fields, 


35°    EGVPTIAN  ARMY  AND  AB  YSSINtAN  EXP&DITlOtt. 


and  revived  the  name  of  Egypt,  whose  people  had  been  de< 
based  in  slavery.  Ibrahim  begnn  by  subduing  the  warring 
tribes  of  Bgypt  and  bringing  under  his  power  the  Bedouins 
of  the  desert ;  aftcrwa.Td,  entering  Arabia,  he  soon  crushed 
the  turbulent  Wahabccs.  Throughout  Egypt,  Arabia, 
Palestine,  and  Syria  all  the  discordant  elements  were 
brought  under  subjection,  and  the  peaceful  tillers  of  the 
soil  were  protected  in  their  flocks  and  herds.  Their  history 
in  those  days,  however  much  they  may  have  fallen  under 
the  ban  later,  proved  that  the  much-abused  fellaheen,  when 
properly  commanded  and  officered,  can  be  led  to  victory. 

Ibrahim  in  his  march  upon  Constantinople  was  only 
checked  by  superior  European  power.  England  menaced 
Egypt  in  his  rear,  and  it  was  only  in  this  manner  that  the 
Sultan,  tottering  to  his  Tall,  was  saved  from  utter  ruin. 
Suleiman  Pacha  (Colonel  Sevcs),  who  rendered  such  highly 
important  service  in  these  military  experiences,  like  others 
of  his  countrymen  of  that  day,  found  it  easy  to  change  hts 
religion  when  it  suited  his  interest  to  do  so.  Becoming  a 
Mussulman,  he  accepted  all  the  accessories  of  that  faith, 
and  had  a  well-filled  harem.  He  avoided  European  society, 
and  only  countenanced  foreigners  when  business  forced  him 
into  their  association.  In  spite  of  an  habitual  air  of  digni> 
fied  reserve  he  could  unbend  on  occasion,  and,  being  of 
versatile  mind  and  well  informed,  was  often  very  entertain- 
ing. One  thing  he  could  not  do — namely,  disguise  his 
French  origin.  He  was  a  brave  and  good  soldier,  and  had 
he  left  a  staff  as  good  as  the  well-drilled  army,  he  would 
have  conferred  a  great  benefit  upon  Egypt.  Suleiman  Pacha 
died  an  aged  man  shortly  after  the  Crimean  war— it  is  said 
he  died  a  "true  believer" — and  with  him  faded  out  the 
organization  of  the  Egyptian  staff. 

When,  in  the  spring  of  1870,  Genera!  Stone  entered  the 
War  Office  of  Eg>'pt  as  chief  of  staff  of  the  army,  he  found 
there  no  staff  existing.  There  was  one  "  colonel  of  the 
staiT  "  on  the  rolls,  but  he,  an  able  French  officer,  was  in 


I 

t 
I 


SGVPTJAN  ARMY  AND  ABYSS/U/AX  EXPSD/TWff.    351 

England  on  special  duty  procuring  supplies,  and  he  re- 
mained there  until  1880.  He  found  in  the  War  Office  no 
maps,  no  military  books,  no  military  magazines  or  journals. 
There  had  been  no  chief  of  staff  In  the  Eg>'ptian  army 
since  the  death  of  Suleiman  Pacha,  ivho  during  the  last  half 
of  the  reign  of  Mehemet  Ali  had  caused  a  number  of  pupils 
to  be  sent  to  Trance  to  receive  a  military  education,  and  on 
their  return  had  attached  them  to  his  staff,  which  was  oc^n- 
izcd  on  the  principles  in  vogue  in  Trance  at  the  time  of 
Napoleon  I. 

No  new  chief  of  staff  of  the  army  was  appointed  until 
1870,  when  General  Stone  was  called  to  Eg>'pt  by  the 
Khedive  Ismail  to  take  the  position.  Of  the  former  staff 
officers,  but  few  remained  alive,  and  they  had  all  been 
called  to  other  duties,  generally  civil,  where  their  education 
made  them  vcr>'  valuable.  Among  these  may  be  named 
Cherif  Pacha,  the  present  Prime  Minister,  one  of  Suleiman 
Pacha's  favorite  and  most  capable  officers,  who  in  tS/O  was 
already  Prime  Minister  and  regcnl  of  the  kingdom  during 
the  temporary  absence  of  the  Khedive  ;  Murad  Pacha,  now 
president  of  the  mixed  tribun.i[s  at  Cairo  ;  and  AH  Pacha- 
Ibrahim,  recently  Minister  of  Public  Instruction.  All  w;is 
therefore  to  be  created  anew.  And  not  only  this,  but  the 
general  officers  of  the  army,  who  had  grown  up  to  their 
higher  grades  during  the  time  while  no  staff  existed,  had 
little  or  no  idea  of  the  duties  or  the  usefulness  of  staff 
officers  or  of  a  staff  organization. 

General  Stone  began  by  preparing  a  report  setting  forth 
the  necessity  of  a  slalT  in  the  army  and  the  duties  of  staff 
officers,  with  an  account  of  the  relations  which  should  exist 
between  the  staff,  the  commanders,  and  the  troops. 

This  report,  submitted  through  the  Minister  of  War  to 
the  Khedive,  was  highly  approved  by  the  latter,  and  the 
organization  of  a  staff  was  ordered.  Then  commenced  for 
General  Stone  the  heavy  labors  required  in  finding  and  pre* 
paring  the  officers  for  their  duties  and  preparing  the  army 


J5»    EGYPTIAN  ARMY  A^'O  ABYSSINIAS  EXPEDtTlOH. 

tor  its  working  with  a  staFF.  His  first  recommcndalion  was 
for  the  education  of  the  army.  He  procured  from  the 
Khedive  an  order  that  no  man  should  thenceforth  be  pro- 
moted in  the  Egyptian  army,  even  to  the  grade  of  corporal, 
un1c&.t  he  could  read  and  write  well.  Then,  to  enable  men 
of  all  ranks  to  attain  promotion,  he  procured  an  order  for 
the  establishment  of  a  school  in  each  battalion,  where  not 
only  the  officers  but  also  the  non-commissioned  ofRccrs  and 
soldiers  could  have  instruction  during  at  least  an  hour  and 
a  half  each  day.  Next  lie  procured  an  order  authorizing 
him  to  organize  a  good  stalT  college,  where  selected  pupils 
taken  from  the  best  schools  could  be  trained  in  the  higher 
studies  required  for  the  education  of  staff  ofificers.  TIlis 
school  turned  out  year  by  year,  from  1873  onward  to  1878, 
very  able  young  ofTiccis,  who  were  placed  on  duty  in  the 
staff  bureaus  and  with  the  general  and  superior  officers 
who  had  come  from  America.  A  few  intelligent  young 
officers  of  artillery  and  cavalry  who  could  sgicak  cither 
French  or  English  were  called  into  the  staff  and  placed  on 
duty  with  the  author,  the  only  foreign  officer  in  diicct  com- 
mand of  the  troops,  and  there  they  received  unremitting 
care  and  attention  from  their  general,  who  exercised  them 
in  the  practice  of  vaiious  stafT  duties. 

Next,  the  chief  of  staff  procured  from  the  Khedive  an 
order  for  the  organization  of  a  special  school  for  non-com* 
missioned  officers,  and  in  this  he  soon  had  fifteen  hundred 
sergeants  and  corporals  under  instruction,  causing  them  to 
be  taught  reading,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  the  keeping  of 
regimental  and  company  books.  These  men  formed  two 
model  battalions  for  the  army,  and  as  fast  as  they  finished 
the  course  of  instruction  were  sent  back  to  their  companies, 
cariyint;  with  them  uniform  instruction  in  drill,  and  were 
replaced  by  other  intelligent  non-commissioned  ofRccra 
drawn  from  their  regiments.  This  school  was  kept  up  tn 
the  barracks  attached  to  the  War  Office,  so  that  General 
Stone  could  inspect  the  instruction  frequently. 


EGYPTIAff  ARM  Y  AND  AB  YSSiXIAX  EXPBDlTIOKf.    353 


The  results  of  these  organizations  were  quickly  apparent, 
and  were  most  satisfactory.  In  1870  one  third  of  the 
officers  in  the  Egyptian  army  could  neither  read  nor  write, 
and  not  one  tenth  of  the  rank  and  file  could  read  or  write. 
In  1873  more  than  seventy  per  cent  of  the  rank  and  file  of 
the  army  could  write  well  enough  to  make  their  own  writ- 
ten applications  for  leave  of  absence  and  appeals  for  justice. 

Finding  the  children  of  the  non-commissioned  officers 
coming  to  their  parents  in  the  school  to  learn,  General 
Stone  proposed  to  the  Khedive  the  establishment  of  a 
special  school  for  soldiers'  aons — not  as  a  charity,  but  as  the 
right  of  the  soldier  bearing  arms  for  the  country  to  have  his 
children  educated  by  the  nation.  This  suggestion  was 
promptly  acted  upon  by  the  Khedive,  and  for  each  division 
of  the  army  a  school  was  established  in  which  the  sons  of 
the  soldiers  of  the  division  were  received,  put  in  a  clean 
and  neat  dress,  taught  and  given  their  dinner  each  day,  re- 
turning to  their  mothers  at  night.  Those  soldiers  whose 
families  lived  far  from  the  stations  where  they  were  serving 
could  have  their  sons  provided  with  bed  and  board  at  the 
school  without  expense  to  them, 

In  a  few  years  this  institution,  established  at  the  su^es- 
tion  of  American  civilisation,  had  become  so  important  that 
twenty-eight  hundred  sons  of  soldiers  were  receiving  a  good 
education  instead  of  being  left  ignorant  and  nearly  naked 
to  run  about  in  the  villages  and  towns.  The  instructors  in 
these  school.t  were  mostly  officers  of  the  army  detached 
from  their  regiments  for  this  service,  and  soldiers  detailed 
on  special  duty  attended  to  the  kitchens  and  dormitories, 
so  that  the  cost  was  not  excessive.  The  Khedive  expended 
$75,000  yearly  on  these  schools  for  soldiers'  children.  The 
promise  was  great ;  but,  unfortunately,  European  civiliza- 
tion came  in  (878,  demanding  economy  for  the  benefit  of 
the  bondholders,  and  the  first  economy  made  by  the  Euro- 
pean commission  was  the  destruction  of  the  staff  college 
the   schools    for    soldiers'   sons !    Neither  of  these 


354    SCYPTlAff  AKMY  AND  ABVSStX/AN  EXPEDtTIOK. 

schools  has  been  re-e«tabltKhed  during  the  recent  reforms  ;i 
but  it  is  lo  be  hoped  they  will  be  when  Kgypl  shall  again 
be  governed  (or  the  Egyptians,  and  not  exclusively  for 
benefit  of  Europe. 

Among  the  Amcricm  officers  who  first  look  scrvictMT 
Egy|)t  were  a  few  who  had  been  employed  on  staff  duty  in  I 
America.  These  were  Colonel  Alexander  Reynolds,  for-l 
mcfly  quartermaster  U,  S,  A.  and  afterward  brigadier- 
general  in  the  Confederate  army  ;  Colonel  Rhctt,  who  had 
been  chief  of  ordnance  in  the  Confederate  army  commandedfl 
by  General  Kirby  Smith  ;  Colonel  Allen,  engineer  officer 
under  General  Sheridan  ;  Lieutcnant>Coloncl  Furdy,  for* 
mcrly  assistant  adjutant -general  in  Franklin's  corps  ;  Liea> 
tenant-Colonel  C.  C.  Long,  formerly  captain  and  commissary 
of  musters  under  General  Lew.  Wallace  ;  and  Colonel  F.  A. 
Reynolds,  formerly  of  the  Confederate  artillery.  Colonels 
Alexander  Reynolds  and  F.  A.  Reynolds  were  assigned  lo 
the  staff  of  General  Loring.  So  also  was  Colonel  Allen  ; 
but  the  latter  resigned  after  two  years'  service,  Ltcutcn- 
ant-CotonclC.  C.  Long  was  assigned  first  to  the  staff  of  a 
native  brigadier-general,  serving  in  Loring's  corps ;  after-, 
ward  to  the  section  of  orders  and  rorrespondcnce  in  the] 
staff  bureau,  and  later  still  he  was  detailed  as  chief  of  staff] 
to  Colonel  Gordon,  when  the  latter  became,  in  1874,  Gov-| 
emor-Gcncral  of  the  provinces  of  the  Equator.  Licutenant-j 
Colonel  Purdy,  promoted  to  the  grade  of  colonel  in  the  fallj 
of  1870,  was  placed  in  charge  of  the  third  section  of  thej 
staff  bureau,  the  section  of  maps,  etc.  Colonel  Rhctt  waai 
assigned  to  ordnance  duty  under  the  orders  of  the  Minister 
of  War.  - 

Gradu.illy  the  various  sections  of  the  general  staff  were | 
formed  in  the  War  Office  and  were  placed  under  the  direc- 
tion of  officers  who  from  time  to  time  came  only  from 
America.  As  fast  as  the  staff  college  produced  graduates, 
these  were  made  lieutenants  and  assigned,  some  to  General 
Loring,  others  to  the  sections  in  the  War  Office,  and  they 


BCYPTlAff  AKMY  AKD  ABYSSINIAN  EXPEDITJOH.     355 

were  trained  (or  the  performance  of  their  specisl  duties.  A 
library  was  forAieJ.  where  large  numbers  of  standard  mili. 
tary  works  and  books  on  tactics  from  all  the  nations  were 
placed,  and  where  were  deposited  each  week  the  military 
ma)f3zines  and  journals  of,  America,  England,  France,  Ger- 
many, Austria,  and  Russia.  This  lihrary  now  contains 
nearly  40CX}  volumes. 

From  the  first  year  of  the  existence  of  the  staff,  oflficcrs 
were  sent  out  to  explore  and  map  the  country  ;  and  the  ex- 
peditions of  the  corps  gradually  pushed  farther  and  farther 
toward  the  south  until,  in  1874.  'j%,  and  '76  these  expedi- 
tions presided  their  work  through  Knrdofan  and  Durfour 
(previously  unknown  in  its  Geography)  down  to  the  Equator, 
and  far  off  to.  the  south-east  to  Berbcra,  tlarrar,  Guardafut, 
and  Juba. 

It  would  not  be  too  much  to  assert,  General  Stone  having 
furnished  me  with  the  data  to  sustain  the  statement,  that 
the  Egyptian  general  staff  officers,  between  the  years  1871 
and  187S  explored  and  mapped  in  detail  more  of  unknown 
African  territory  than  all  the  other  explorers  of  the  world. 
This  may  seem  a  bold  assertion,  but  an  examination  at  Cairo 
of  the  reports  and  maps  of  the  staff  explorers  in  Africa  will 
bear  it  out.  It  is  not  intended  to  compare  the  work  of  any 
one  Egyptian  officer  with  the  grand  discoveries  of  Stanley 
and  others,  but  the  aggregate  work  done  in  hitherto  unex- 
plored  portions  of  Africa  by  the  Eg>-ptian  staff  is  more  than 
that  of  all  the  European  explorers  during  the  period  men- 
tioned. 

Staff  officers  trained  in  the  staff  college  of  Egypt  did  their 
duty  well  in  the  campaigns  of  Abyssinia  and  Bulgaria  and 
Scrvia.  Although  the  first  graduates  came  out  into  service 
only  in  1S73,  yet  at  the  time  of  this  writing  six  per  cent  of 
all  the  graduates  have  fallen  dead  on  the  field  of  battle, 
while  two  per  cent  have  died  in  the  work  of  exploration  in 
the  Soudan  or  of  disease  there  contracted.  Of  those  now 
living,  nearly  all  are  at  present  employed  in  the  public 


BGYPTiAN  ARMY  AND  ABYSSINIAN  EXPEDITION.    557 

General  S*.onc  located  his  sta^  hcadqunrtcrs  at  the 
Citadel,  near  Cairo,  and  early  in  the  day  began,  a.t  stated, 
the  herculean  task  of  organizing  and  putting  the  system 
into  operation,  there  being  absolute  necessity  for  it. 
Securing  a  number  of  experienced  officers,  he  succeeded  in 
establishing  the  offices,  and  was  ready  for  duty  either  in 
the  barracks  or  with  an  army  in  the  field.  Lithographic, 
photographic,  and  printing  offices  were  also  established, 
with  experienced  men  in  charge.  No  enlightened  govern- 
ment had  a  better  system.  To  give  it  the  nccessaty  Arab 
infusion,  a  large  number  of  competent  young  native  officers 
had  already  been  educated,  and  others  were  progressing 
rapidly  at  the  military  school.  Special  attention  was  given 
to  staff  instruction.  So  far  everything  was  promising.  To 
reconcile  the  army  to  the  introduction  of  the  system  and  to 
work  it  successfully  was  the  difficult  task  General  Stone 
had  to  perform.  Assisted  by  myself  and  others,  he  had  to 
combat  the  customs  and  prejudices  not  only  of  those  imme- 
diately above  him,  but  of  every  officer  in  the  army  and 
e%'efy  person  connected  with  it  by  the  tie  of  relationship  or 
influence,  including  the  much  vaunted  Coptic  clerks,  who 
were  a  power  in  the  land.  There  was  no  gencral-in-chief  in 
reality ;  there  was  one  called  by  the  title,  but  his  duties 
were  to  sit  upon  commissions,  and  he  never  pretended  to 
issue  an  order.  All  orders  emanating  from  the  Minister  of 
War  were  sealed  by  him.  and  with  few  exceptions  the 
entire  army  sent  it*  papers  to  him  directly  or  to  some  Arab 
in  his  immediate  office.  I  fought  against  this,  and  did  my 
best  to  have  correspondence  sent  through  the  chief  of  staff. 
The  one  through  whom  it  was  sent  to  the  minister  was 
usually  some  under  officer,  or  may  be  a  Coptic  clerk.  If  the 
chief  of  staff  issued  any  order,  it  was  exceptional.  I  do  not 
now  speak  of  matters  relating  to  explorations  and  scientific 
observations  :  these  were  under  the  control  of  the  chief  of 
staff.  The  Minister  of  War,  though  extremely  amiable, 
looked  upon  the  interference  of  the  staff  as  an  inlringcmcot 


_^E^ 


358    ECYPTIA.V  AKMY  AlfD  ABYSSINIAN  EXPEDfTIOlf. 


of  his  rights  and  dignity,  and  a  depriv-ation  of  a  certain 
share  of  prestige.   He  insisted  on  his  seal  being  put  to  every    ' 
paper  however  trifling,  and  he  never  could  be  persuaded  o{fl 
the  &t.ifT'a  utility  or  made  to  understand  that  a  stalT  added 
to  his  dignity  and  saved  Iiim  trouble.     How  often  have  the 
general-in-chicf  and  Secretary  of  War  in  the  United  States 
had  difficulties  about  orders  ?     In  Egypt  every  commanding 
Dtliccr,  from  the  highest  in  rank  to  the  lowest  subaltern,  was 
in  reality  his  own  adjutant -general,  quartermaster,  and  com- 
missary, and  as  a  rule  a  civilian  clertc  attended  to  all  the 
dutiea.     All  these  important  oflicers  saw  that  they  could  in  ^ 
no  other  way  sit  upon  their  divans  and  hold  levies  with  con-| 
tractors,    thereby    filling   their  pockets  sub  roui  with  side 
tributes.     There  is  nothing  an  Eastern  man  likes  »o  much 
as  this  affected  importance  while  it  fills  his  coffers.     Added 
to  this,  he  has  a  natural  distrust  of  change  and  a  great  dis.j 
like  for  sharing  hts  authority  with  a  foreigner.     This  made] 
the  War  Minister  bitterly  averse  to  any  interference  by  the] 
staff. 

But  there  was  a  greater  cause  of  hostility  to  the  staff  sent 
with  the  army  on  this  expedition.     It  was  a  deep-seated^ 
opposition  to  the  war,  not  only  on  the  part  of  the  oflicers 
and  soldiers,  but  of  the  entire  people  of  Egypt.     I  believe 
this  feeling  entered  into  the  cabinet  of  the  Khedive,  and 
the  fact  that  the  staff  \v.is  determined  to  do  their  whole 
duty  brought  upon  them  the  hostility  of  Ratib  Pacha  and 
his  officers.     All  these  manifold  difficulties  the  staff  sent  to 
Abyssinia  hud  to  combat.     Senseless  theories  of  Egyptianfl 
indolence  and  criticisms  on  Coptic  clerks  may  be  a  safety- 
valve   for  disappointed    hopes  and   im.iginary   grievance.t. 
Impotent  and  vindictive  rage  may  vent  its  hatred  upon  th^H 
Khedive  and  his  f.amily.  but  it  does  not  do  away  with  the 
fact  that   we  went  to  Egypt  to  assist  him  in  his  military 
establishment.     Every   intelligent    man,   before  he  went^| 
knew  what  he  hiid  to  encounter,  and  if  the  staff  did  not^ 
succeed  in  overcoming  all  the  difficulties  before  them  their 


eCYPTIAM  A/tMY  AND  ABYSSINIAN  EXPEDITION.    359 

consciences  were  clear  that  they  did  the  best  possible  in 
human  power  to  do. 

After  landing  at  Massowah  it  soon  became  necessary  to 
organize  the  army  and  to  assign  the  numerous  staFf  ofHccrs 
to  duty.  I  said  to  the  general  (Ratib  I'acha)  that  there  was 
no  objection  to  his  pergonal  stafT,  but  there  were  legitimate 
duties  for  the  Etat-Major  to  perform,  and  1  proposed  at 
once  to  as!iign  its  several  members  to  the  duties  they  were 
best  Rtled  for.  This  was  readily  assented  to,  and  no  man 
could  have  been  more  complaisant  %o  far  as  promises  went. 
1  have  already  stated  the  duties  expected  of  Colonel  Dye. 
I  assigned  General  Field  as  inspector-general,  and  Licuten- 
ant'Colonel  Mtikln  and  Captain  Sormani  as  his  assistants. 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Derrick  (until  the  arrival  of  Colonel 
Lockett)  WAS  assigned  to  duty  as  chief  engineer,  with  Major 
Dcnnison,  Major  Dorholtz,  Captain  Irgins,  and  two  Eg)'p- 
tian  lieutenants  as  assistants.  Major  Loshc  was  made 
quartermaster  and  commissary,  and  Captain  Porter  his  as- 
sistant, with  an  Egyptian  lieutenant  assigned  as  Arab  and 
English  translator.  Dr.  Wilson  was  surgeon  of  the  staff, 
.  Dr.  Johnson  («oon  after)  his  assistant.  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Ali  I)cy  was  put  in  charge  of  the  ordnance,  llie  other 
Eg>'ptian  officers  were  ai.signed  to  duty  where  they  could 
be  most  useful,  including  my  personal  staff.  The  other 
positions  in  the  army,  at  the  particular  request  of  the  gen* 
eral,  were  left  in  the  hands  of  Arabs,  who  were  accordingly 
ordered  to  their  respective  duties. 

A  part  of  the  small  island  near  our  residence  was  fortified 
by  Major  Dcnnison,  who  with  good  judgment  collected 
the  wreck  of  Arrendrup's  command  and  encamped  it  there. 
The  main  body  of  the  expedition  brought  with  us  was 
tented  on  the  mainland,  under  the  command  of  Raschid 
Pacha  and  Osman  Facha,  buth  Circassians.  Ratib  Pacha, 
the  commander,  prided  himself  also  upon  being  a  Circas- 
Man.  He  had  been  a  slave  of  Said,  a  former  Viceroy,  and 
held  the  honorable  position  of  pipC'Cleaner  to  his  High- 


J«0    BGYPT/A.V  ^t 


VD  ah  YSSIXIAN  EXPKDlTlOfl. 


ness.     Ratib  was  of  dark  complexion,  small  in  stature,  and 
past  fifty  ;    compact  and  wir>-,  he  could   be  very  active 
when  his  fears  or  interc-tt^  excited  him.     Sent  when  a  boy 
by  Said  to   Paris,  he  had  been  evidently  educated  in  tbefl 
9aton<(  of  the  dcmi-mondc  of  that  magnificent  city,  and  re- 
turned to  [^g>'pt  speaking  French  glibly  and  with  an  affec- 
tation of  Parisian  manners.     Upon  his  return  SaTd  made 
him  a  Itculen-tnt.     It  wa.«  not  long  after  this  that  Said  in  a 
fit  of  caprice  struck  him.     He  solaced  his  wounded  amour- 
fropre  by  shooting  himself  through  the  upper  part  of  hiafl 
nose  in  the  endeavor  to  discover  his  brains.     Remorse 
shadowed  the  Pacha,  and  to  make  amends  he  promoted 
RatEb.     Subsequently  the  ex-pipe-bearer  attained  the  nom-fl 
ina)  rank  of  gener.il 'in -chief  of  the  army.     His  immediate 
stafr  were  RiRat   Effcndi,  an  educated  Arab  and  Turkiaii 
scholar,  and   Major  Turnhcyscn,  who  had  seen  service  infl 
Austria  and  had  been  with  Maximilian  in  Mexico.     There 
were  three  Egyptian  ofliccrs  on  his  staff  in  addition.     We     - 
were  informed  that  the  Coptic  clerks  had  an  im moderated 
and  dangerous  influence  over  princes  and  others  in  author- 
ity, which  they  used  possibly  in  their  own  interests,  and  that 
when  one  was  a  Mussulman,  as  was  Riffat,  who  really  actedfl 
as  an  adjutant-general,  he   became  still   more  dangerous. 
Ratib,  who  had  been  a  »Uve  and  was  ignorant  of  his  duties, 
took  this  man  as  his  clerk  and  correspondent.     The  clerli 
certainly  became  the   "  sphinx  in   the  background  "  andl 
helped  materially  to  ruin  the  expedition.      Riffat  was  al 
voluminous  writer,  and  falling  into  the  power  of  the  enemy,] 
he  was  one  of  those  who  helped  to  pacify  King  John  and  toj 
scare  the  cowardly  Ratib,  through  his  correspondence,  intoj 
^ving  many  rich  presents  to  that  barbarous  potentate. 

1  entered  the  service  of  the   Khedive  in  l80t>,  and  was] 
offered  higher  rank,  but  preferred  to  go  as  I-ewan  Pacha,/ 
equivalent  to  brigadicr-gcncral,   but  with  the  promise  of^ 
promotion  soon  after  arriving.     This  and  many  other  prom- 
ises were  fulfilled.     I  wish  to  say  here  that  1  was  indebted 


EGYPTIAN  ARMY  A?ID  ABY&SINIAS'  EXPSDITlOtf.    361 


to  no  one  during  my  stay  in  Egyp^  ^^^  ^^y  favors  except 
the  Khedive.  Niibar  Pncha,  and  Stone  Pacha  ;  and  in  mat- 
ters or  pay,  to  Mr.  Farman,  American  consular  agent.  1 
was  ihc  friend  of  General  Stone  before  he  went  to  E^pt. 
and  subsequently  as  he  had  opportunity  he  did  me  kind- 
nesses. I  never  failed  to  render  them  to  him  whenever  it 
was  in  my  power  to  do  so.  He  went  thither  a.i  chief  of  stafT 
for  the  army  of  Egj-pl,  and  there  was  no  man  more  compe- 
tent, by  reason  of  education,  experience,  ability,  and  in. 
dustry,  to  (ill  tlic  position.  When  I  was  in  command  of  the 
larger  portion  of  the  army  of  Eg>'pt,  and  subsequently,  I 
never  failed  to  .aid  him  in  carrying  out  his  designs,  in  the 
of^antzation  of  the  stafi,  and  in  pursuing  its  legitimate 
duties,  even  at  the  sacrifice  of  my  own  interests  at  times,  of 
which  1  shall  speak  hereafter.  My  first  experience  was  as 
inspect  or- general  of  the  army. 

I  was  indebted  to  the  Khedive  and  his  minister  during 
this  service  for  the  highest  and  most  complimentary  appre- 
ciation, and  no  one  labored  more  in  building  up  the  army 
which  was  subsequently  destroyed  by  the  new  rulers  of 
Eg)'pt.  No  army  could  have  been  more  cordial  than  that 
of  Eg\'pt  was,  during  this  period  and  subsequently,  in 
obeying  my  instructions  and  in  adopting  my  recommenda- 
tions. While  in  the  midst  of  my  arduous  duties  as  inspec- 
tor-general, in  the  early  part  of  1870,  I  was  suddenly  sum- 
moned to  the  palace  of  Abdccn,  in  Cairo,  the  residence  of 
the  Ktiedive,  and  introduced  into  hts  private  office.  I 
found  seated  at  his  tabic  the  Khedive,  Kassim  Pacha,  the 
Minister  of  War,  the  general-in-chief,  and  General  Stone. 
I  wa<  invited  to  a  scat  next  to  General  Stone.  The  Khe- 
dive in  person,  .after  ordering  nearly  his  entire  army  to 
Alexandria  and  the  coast  of  Egypt,  and  discussing  many 
things  not  necessary  to  mention,  directed  the  Minister  of 
War  to  assign  me  to  the  command  of  both  army  and  navy, 
with  my  headquarters  at  Alexandria,  and  the  palace  of 
MoussalTa  Khanah  as  my  residence ;  later  I  was  given  the 


363    ECrPTUy  AXMV  AND  ASYSSINIA!/  EXPEDITlOtf. 

use  of  Gabara  Palace,  the  late  residence  of  Sa'fd  Pacha,  tlM 
foimer  Viceroy.     When  tlic  Khedive  made  this  announce- 
ment General  Stone  arose  in  his  seat  and  turned  toward 
as  though  he  were  surprised.     But  for  this  I  should  hai 
believed  that  he  had  had  something  to  do  with  it.     It  was 
the  act  of  the  Khedive  alone.     Having  commanded  depart- 
ments and  armies  in  my  own  country,  I  felt  fully  prepared 
to  meet  the  responsibilities,  and  therefore  did  not  share  thfl 
astonishment.     On  parting  with  the  Khedive,  he  said  tff 
me   that   I   must   come   to   him   in  person  or  correspond 
directly  with  htm  for  whatever  I  desired,  and  that  it  should 
be  at  once  attended  to  ;  and  to  insure  the  matter  he  said, 
"  Communicate  in  English."     In  the  first  years  I  sent  con- 
siderable correspondence  to  the  chief  of  staff  which  was 
acted  upon,  and  throughout,  when  it  was  not  acted  upon 
promptly,  I   never  failed  in  time  to  get  all  I  wanted  by- 
communication  with  the  Khedive.     It  was  generally  thoug' 
that  General  Stone  burdened  himself  with  too  many  n 
oflicials,  though  to  be  sure  he  had  extensive  explorations 
and  scientific  duties  for  them  to  perform.     Many  of  them 
who  came  were  very  .iblc  and  accomplished,  but  still  there 
were  too  many  who  had  little  to  do.     Accustomed  to  lives 
of   usefulness  at   home,   life  became   Irksome  to  them   in 
Egypt,  and  a  number  left  soon  after  arriving  there,  while 
others  took  .seals  in  the  bureaus  at  the  Citadel  to  lament 
the  fate  that  had  brought  them  to  the  country.     Those 
ordered  as  assistants  in  the  Abyssinian  campaign  were  as 
follows :  Colonel  Willi;im   M.   E.   Dye,   who  graduated  at 
West  Point  in  1853.     He  served  on  the  frontier  before  the 
Civil  War,  and  was  a  colonel  and  brevet -brigadier-general 
in  the  U.  S.  .^.  during  its  progress.     Me  resigned  in  1870 
and  entered  the  Eg)'ptian  service  late  in  18/3.     This  officer, 
who  had  come  to  Egypt  before  we  started,  for  what  service 
I  am  not  Informed,  was  subsequently  on  duty  at  the  Citadel 
in  one  of  the  offices  of  General  Stone.     He  came  to  Abys- 
sinta  as  assistant  to  the  chief  of  staff.     General  Charles  W. 


=J 


SGYPTIAH  AHMY  AND  ABYSSWIAN  F.XPSDITION.    363 


Field  graduated  at  West  Point  in  1849.  He  served  for 
many  years  on  the  frontier,  was  a  major -general  in  the 
Confederate  service,  and  was  wounded  in  front  of  Rich- 
mond, (le  went  to  £g>'pl  as  a  colonel,  and  had  only 
arrived  a  short  time  before  our  departure.  Of  Colonel 
Loclcett,  a  graduate  of  West  Point  in  the  engineer  corps, 
who  had  been  a  colonel  in  the  Confederacy,  I  have  already 
spoken  at  some  length.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Ali  Bey  was 
an  Italian  in  the  Egyptian  army.  Colonel  Derrick,  engi- 
necr,  served  in  the  Confederacy  asciptainof  engineers.  He 
had  not  been  long  in  Egypt.  Lieutenant-Colonel  (Baron 
von)  MHkln  had  been  an  ofBccrin  the  Austrian  army,  and 
had  not  been  long  in  Egypt  when  he  started  for  Abyssinia. 
Major  Loshc  had  been  an  officer  of  volunteers  in  the  Civil 
War  and  subsequently  in  the  U.  S.  A.  He  had  only 
recently  come  to  Egypt.  Dr.  WiUon,  an  assistant  surgeon 
U.  S.  A.,  had  seen  much  service  in  the  field  and  during  the 
Civil  War.  Captain  Porter,  son  of  Admiral  Porter,  arrived 
in  Egypt  as  the  expedition  was  leaving,  and  was  assigned 
to  duty  with  it.  Captain  Itgins  served  during  and  after  the 
Civil  War  as  an  officer  in  the  U.  S.  A.  Captain  (Count) 
Sormani,  an  Italian,  was  appointed  just  before  leaving. 
Major  (Count)  Tumheyscn.  aide-de-camp  to  the  command- 
ing-general, was  appointed  in  the  army  on  the  cvc  of  de- 
parture. 

One  of  the  most  useful  officers  on  my  stafT  was  an  Egyp- 
tian, Ibrahim  Lutfy  EfTendi  (now  colonel).  Many  years  in 
the  aimy.  he  served  on  my  staff  as  an  adjutant- general  for 
nearly  ten  years,  and  was  one  of  the  most  accomplished  and 
useful  officers  in  Egypt.  He  knew  English  well,  was  familiar 
with  French  and  Italian,  and  w.as  a  good  Turkish  and  Arab 
scholar.  For  Americans  he  entertained  the  warmest  alTec- 
tion.  During  the  long  time  spent  in  my  office  in  continu- 
ous and  arduous  labor,  while  in  command  of  the  Largest 
portion  of  the  Egyptian  army,  he  became  acquainted  with 
every  officer,  and  was  known  to  every  soldier  in  it.     Being 


CHAPTER    VII. 
THE  MARCH  INTO  THE  INTERIOR. 

LIcutnianl-Colofld  Gravei  ltd  it  Mnssowali  la  snard  tb«  ttar  (iKl  bold  lh« 
bale  of  comtnunications~Tbo  bacK*R*  lichlennl  lo  mcel  Ihe  lack  ol 
iraniportatlon— Bfealting  up  camp— Advenlure*  on  ihe  nuiTh— The 
Uoa  of  A>>y»iiili.  aai  the  my  be  it  buni«d— Amval  ac  Aidi-RuKi  — 
Ad  AbjrHinran  paiadlit — Another  rcorganizailoii  of  the  hiasgii^e  train 
— ^oluncl  Dyc'iaaMuIt  on  tbrahim  Lultjr  Eflcndi — Colonel  Dye  tola- 
moned  bcloce  a  couti-nuuiial,  mign*. 


On  arriving  at  Maasowah,  the  absolute  necessity  for  an 
experienced  naval  officer  was  apparent,  to  regulate  the 
transport  ships,  arrange  for  the  movement  of  troops  and 
supplies  from  them,  and  to  have  a  general  Huperintendcnce 
of  Ihe  bay  and  town.  Above  all,  it  was  important  to  leave 
in  our  rear  not  only  an  accomplished  sailor,  but  a  mlli* 
tarj'  commander  of  determination  and  character.  Fortu- 
nately, Colonel  Charles  I.  Graves  was  ordered  for  the  duty, 
and  throughout  our  trying  services  aided  us  by  his  good  judg> 
mcnt.  Subsequently  the  colonel  was  engaged  in  scientific 
duties  in  Egypt,  and  was  selected  by  the  Khedive  for  the 
important  duty  of  exploring  the  coast  of  the  Sumali  Mijjer- 
tain,  bordering  the  gulf  of  Aden  and  the  islands  adjacent, 
and  of  selecting  a  site  for  a  lighthouse  for  the  safety  of  the 
commerce  of  the  world  arriving  from  the  Indian  Ocean  and 
entering  through  the  gulf  into  the  Red  Sea.  The  Khedive 
had  been  long  anxious  to  secure  an  officer  of  the  highest 
scientific  skill  lo  fill  the  place,  as  it  was  necessary  to  study 
the  country  bordering  the  sea,  and  to  determine  the  force 
of  winds  and  currents,  of  which  little  was  known.  It  was  a 
work  of  great  labor,  and  its  completion  met  with  apprccia- 


366 


THE  ttARCit  INTO    TtlE  INTERIOK. 


tion  by  the  Egyptian  Govcmincnt.  Colonel  Graves's 
rcconnoissancc  and  reports  were  published  by  the  scientific 
periodicals  of  the  world  oa  an  interesting  addition  to 
science.  Tlie  duty  accomplished,  to  mark  the  service  the 
Khedive  conferred  upon  the  colonel  a  high  decoration  of 
the  Order  of  the  Mcdjidch.  Upon  being  discharged  at  his 
own  request  he  was  invited  to  remain,  and  leaving  Alexan- 
dria was  oflcrcd  a  high  position  in  the  Soudan. 

When  the  army  was  ready  to  move,  the  Prince  Hassan 
was  persuaded  to  leave  behind  a  gorgeous  tent  of  varied 
colors  and  many  other  accessories  of  luxurious  campaigning 
which  would  have  employed  a  great  amount  of  transporta- 
tion on  the  journey  over  the  mountains.  Amid  the  confu- 
sion incident  to  the  setting  out  of  a  motley  crowd  on  a 
campaign,  Ratib  issued  a  general  order  for  his  movement. 
The  minutest  details  of  this  order  were  studied  and  ex- 
plained, so  that  errors  of  translation,  of  which  there  had 
been  complaints  on  former  occasions,  could  not  be  offered 
as  an  excuse  for  its  violation.  On  the  morning  of  depart- 
ure, as  was  to  be  expected,  there  was  a  great  deal  of  confu- 
sion, and  a  general  scrambling  for  camels  and  mules  fol- 
lowed. In  justice  to  Prince  Hassan  on  this  occasion  it  Is 
due  to  say  that  though  a  large  number  of  the  animals  in- 
tended for  others  were  appropriated  for  his  enormous 
outfit,  as  soon  as  the  fact  came  to  his  knowledge,  too  late 
to  do  much  good,  he  protested  against  it.  It  was  the  fault 
of  Ratib,  the  royalty  of  the  prince  being  uppermost  in  his 
mind,  as  well  as  his  regard  for  his  own  appetite,  and  it 
mattered  not  who  else  was  inconvenienced.  The  scene  was 
animated  and  picturesque.  Vast  crates  of  crocker>',  boxes  of 
wine  and  delicacies  of  all  kinds,  enormous  tables,  and  pots 
and  kettles  with  a  huge  iron  stove,  were  piled  upon  the 
backs  of  camels  and  mules.  T  had  seen  stampedes  of  ani- 
mals in  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  other  scenes  of  the  olden 
day  in  breaking  up  cimps,  but  this  scene  beggared  all  de- 
scription.    As  the  train  wound  its  way  along  the  ni 


TUB  MAKCfl  WTO   THE  tNTERIOR, 


367 


causeway,  one  coulJ  see  mules  kicking  ofT  thctr  loads  and 
cameU  running  off,  scattering  the  valuable  property  of  the 
prince  and  Ic^SL-ning,  amid  the  crash  of  winc-bottlcs  and 
crockery,  the  chances  of  Katib  for  a  good  dinner.  The 
amusement  accompanying  this  l^astern  fashion  of  making 
war  would  have  made  an  anchoret  laugh,  and  it  was  impos- 
sible to  feel  indignant  at  seeing  our  transportation  disap- 
pearing in  the  distance.  I  forgave  Ratib  his  folly,  in  con- 
sideration of  the  comedy  he  had  unwittingly  provided. 
The  tumult  being  over  and  our  enterprising  quartermaster. 
Major  Loshe,  having  other  animals,  wc  got  them  at  a  late 
hour  and  reached  our  encampment  at  daylight  next  morn- 
ing  at  Yangoos.  a  small  village  where  Colonel  M6kln  had 
sunk  several  pumps  to  afford  water  for  the  troops  and 
animals.  Our  ride  during  the  night  was  very  daik  and 
dismal,  and  the  rain  made  it  specially  unpleasant.  Climb- 
ing disintegrating  hills  and  rubbing  against  the  sharp  thorns 
of  the  stumpy  mimosas,  which  were  abundant,  was  more 
exciting  than  pleasurable.  The  mimosa  often  attains  the 
height  of  ten  or  twenty  feet,  and  resembles  the  mcsquitt 
which  fringes  the  Rio  Grande  in  Texas.  It  lias  a  leaf  and 
wood  like  the  Acacia  Farnciia  which  grows  so  abundantly 
in  Egypt  and  Florida,  but  is  without  its  small  yellow  blos- 
som of  delicious  perfume.  The  aloe-plant  grows  here,  as  it 
does  throughout  Abyssinia,  to  a  great  size,  and  is  very 
beautiful,  as  it  shoots  upward  in  a  slender  stalk  ornamented 
wilh  saffron-colored,  bcll-shaped  flowers,  and  surrounded  by 
its  thick,  dark-green,  sharp-pointed  leaves. 

But  we  arc  still  on  our  tired  animals,  who  are  munching 
dried  grass  and  vegetation  as  they  pick  their  way,  uncertain 
of  their  footing  in  the  extreme  darkness,  through  the  long 
bed  of  a  dry  river  overhung  by  the  tamarisk  and  mimosa. 
It  will  be  said  that  our  setting  out  upon  the  campaign  was 
not  quite  such  a  gala  scene  as  the  departure  of  the  prince 
with  his  man  Ratib  in  the  morning.  The  only  breaks  in 
the  monotony  of  this  ride  were  caused  by  the  cries  of  the 


3« 


THE  MAXCa  INTO    TUB  tNTEKlOX. 


jackal  and  the  scream  of  the  hyena,  whetting  their  teeth  ii 
their  future  repast  on  dead  man  and  beast.  Now  and  the 
the  roaring  of  the  tion  echoed  as  wc  neaicd  Yangoos  ;  fc 
this  was  his  watering-place,  and  an  interruption  by  the  in- 
vader made  him  ferocious.  There  was  at  Yangoos  a  horse 
upon  which  an  Arab  had  once  been  seated  when  a  lion 
sprang  upon  him.  1  saw  where  the  beast  had  struck  his 
huge  claws  and  dragged  the  flesh  from  the  hind-quarters  of 
the  animal,  upon  the  very  road  we  had  just  travelled.  Our 
guide,  a  Shoho,  with  his  top  wool  and  smell  of  rancid  but- 
ter, armed  with  lance,  shield,  shotgun,  two  pistols,  and  a 
club,  like  a  veritable  man  of  war,  was  equal  to  an  arsenal, 
and  of  course,  though  myiiolf  unanned,  I  felt  safe  under  his 
escort.  Arriving  at  the  valley  of  Ambatikum,  which  is  fre- 
quented by  the  Shohos  during  the  rainy  season  to  raise  tcff 
and  doura  and  pasture  the  cattle  of  Abyssinians  who  live 
farther  in  the  mountains,  the  prince,  who  was  riding  with 
me,  stalked  two  wild  boars,  but  they  trotted  off  unharmed, 
though  numerous  shots  were  fired  at  them.  General  Field, 
on  our  return,  kill<>d  one  near  here  of  good  size  and  of 
delicate  flesh.  Reaching  Bahr  Rczxa  after  six  hours'  march- 
iug  wc  camped  upon  a  rivulet,  the  banks  of  which  were 
rich  with  vegetation  and  grasses.  The  change  from  the 
desert  .ind  burning  region  of  the  coast,  where  there  was 
neither  tree  nor  shrub,  to  a  height  of  several  hundred  feet 
and  a  cooler  atmosphere  proved  refrc:ihing  to  the  spirits 
of  every  one.  From  neglect  of  sanitary  precautions  by 
the  Arab  commanders,  however,  this  camp  became  a 
cesspool.  Abb£  Duflot  says  that  in  the  late  ^ring  and 
early  in  the  summer,  by  the  double  cflcct  of  water  and 
heat,  there  is  great  abundance  of  vegetation,  and  it  is  one 
of  the  unhealthiest  regions  of  Abyssinia.  For  that  reason 
no  inhabitant  lives  permanently  in  the  valley.  Here  was 
placed  a  depot,  which  was  fortified  so  as  to  guard  it  and  the 
trail  leading  to  a  place  called  Guinda. 
We  had  been  in  a  region  since  leaving  the  coast  wbi« 


Tim  MARCH  /XTO   THE  INTERIOK. 


369 


is  a  paradise  for  the  larger  wild  animals,  particularly  the 
lion,  which  grow.s  hereto  n  great  size.  The  lion  of  Abyssinia 
is  said  to  have  a  fondnc&s  (or  human  flesh,  particularly  after 
he  has  once  tasted  it.  All  agree  that  be  does  not  hesitate 
to  spring,  as  in  the  case  already  related,  upon  any  solitary 
traveller.  The  former  consul  of  France  at  Massowah  tells 
of  his  pursuit  of  a  Hon  in  company  with  a  number  of  the 
people  of  the  village  in  which  he  happened  to  be  at  the 
lime.  One  of  these  monsters  in  company  with  his  mate 
(for  they  always  go  in  couples)  had  scieed  a  woman  near  the 
village,  and  throwing  her  on  his  back,  as  is  the  animars 
habit,  made  for  his  lair.  When  the  pursuers  overtook  him 
he  dropped  the  mangled  body  of  the  woman  and  escaped. 
The  leopard  of  Abyssinia  is  said  to  attack  man  when 
asleep.  One  of  the  escort  of  a  noted  traveller,  not  long 
before  our  arrival,  had  been  killed  and  partly  eaten,  as  was 
supposed,  by  a  lion  ;  but  as  the  body  was  found  upon  the 
very  place  where  the  man  had  evidently  slept,  the  Abys- 
sinians  decided  that  it  was  a  leopard  that  had  done  the 
deed,  it  being  the  habit  of  this  beast  to  devour  its  prey  on 
the  spot. 

The  Abyssinian,  as  a  rule,  pas.scs  the  lion  without  dis- 
turbing him,  and  this  respect  is  reciprocated  ;  but  the  lion 
will  always  fight  if  pursued.  There  is  no  reason  why  this 
animal  should  make  war  upon  man  in  this  country,  for  no- 
where in  ihe  world  is  there  such  an  abundance  of  game 
suited  to  his  taste  and  eas)'  of  capture.  The  Aby-ssinians 
do  not,  as  a  rule,  use  firearms,  but  hunt  big  game,  such  as 
the  elephant  and  lion,  with  their  enormous  scythe-shaped 
swords  well  sharpened.  By  nature  a  wonderfully  brave 
people,  two  of  them  will  attack  a  lion.  One  will  get  before 
him  some  short  distance  beyond  his  spring  and  draw  his 
attention,  keeping  his  eye  steadily  upon  that  of  his  antag- 
onist  glaring  at  him.  The  huge  cat  advances  slowly  to  the 
regular  distance  before  the  6nal  leap,  and  as  he  never 
watches  more  than  one  object  at  a  time,  which  instinct  telb 


S70 


THE  MARCH  INTO   TUB  INTERtOlt. 


him  is  soon  to  be  in  his  grasp,  he  docs  not  notice  the  swift 
prepress  of  another  enemy  in  his  rear,  who  with  noiseless 
step  is  rapidly  coming  upon  him  with  uplifted  aword.  The 
scene  now  becomes  exciting.  The  lion  is  about  to  gather 
for  the  spring,  when  the  well-poised  sword  comes  down  ufl 
erring  in  its  stroke  upon  his  hind  legs,  severing  his  har^ 
strings,  and  the  '*  king  of  beasts"  finishes  his  attack  by 
dra^ng  his  hind  Icg^  in  a  last  desperate  effort  to  get  at  his 
enemy.  Failing  to  reach  liim,  he  rolls  over  with  a  roar  of 
agony,  when  the  conquerors  quickly  give  the  eoup  de  grdce. 
The  killing  of  a  lion  is  conudcrcd  one  of  the  greatest  acts 
of  courage  and  skill,  and  when  an  Abyssinian  comes  out 
alive  from  the  tenible  encounter  he  is  honored  by  the  kin)* 
and  receives  a  public  o\-ation  as  he  struts  about  wearing 
the  skin  as  a  trophy  of  his  prowess.  Tlie  refrc-ihing  stories 
told  of  the  lion  and  leopard  had  the  effect  of  keeping  our 
men  in  camp  and  on  the  march  from  straggling,  so  that  few 
deserters  dared  take  the  back  track.  Subsequently  upon 
this  road  we  saw  innumerable  very  tame  guinea-fowls, 
quails,  pinnated  grouse,  partridges,  and  hares,  while  the 
beautiful  gazelles  bounded  in  great  numbers  on  both  sides  of 
our  trail.  On  the  next  march  we  comn'enced  ascending  an 
elevated  country  and  passed  through  thick  mimosa  and  tam- 
arisk trees  filled  with  beautiful  birds,  among  which  was  the 
small  red  and  green  parrot.  The  small  animals  had  fled 
before  the  strange  invasion,  but  the  fanciful  and  inquisitive 
little  monkey  ;inJ  the  whiskered,  dog-faced  baboon  stood 
their  ground,  now  and  then  showing  their  teeth  and  chatter- 
ing with  fear.  The  Arabs  were  delighted  with  all  thi*' 
change  of  country,  of  birds,  and  of  animals. 

We  reorganized  our  transportation,  for  the  prince,  who 
by  this  time  had  learned  that  the  road  was  strewed  with  his 
useless  baggage,  began  to  realize  that  it  was  best  for  royalty 
to  travel  with  fewer  encumbrances,  and  that  he  was  not 
in  the  palace  of  Gezeerah  at  Cairo.  Still  ascending,  we 
elimbed  the  mounUins  of  Bemba,  4500  feet  high,  the  name 


TUS  UAJCCU  INTO  THS  INTERIOR. 


37 « 


meaning  "  baby"  in  Arabic.  Tlic  Arabs  had  theii  joke  over 
this  mountain,  for  they  declared  that  Bcmba  wa&  the 
biggest  baby  that  they  had  ever  seen,  when  toiling  up  and 
over  its  tortuous  and  winding  trait,  among  rocks  and 
dense  timber.  The  Arab  \%  essentially  a  religious  animal, 
though  the  common  peojjic  can  give  you  no  idea  of  what 
their  religion  is.  If  you  ask  an  Arab,  he  will  say,  "  God  is 
great,  and  Mahomet  is  His  prophet,"  and  there  his  creed 
ends.  The  thought  uppermost  in  his  mind  is  of  AtUh  (God). 
As  he  walks  along  or  carries  a  load  he  i-ays  "  Allah."  In 
every  affair  in  life  the  name  is  in  his  mind,  and  he  believes 
he  is  benefited  when  he  mentions  it.  On  the  morning  on 
which  wc  left  this  camp  my  "syce,"  who  handled  my  horses, 
kept  mc  waiting ;  upon  hunting  liim  up,  I  found  him  at 
some  distance,  numbed  by  the  unaccustomed  cold,  and 
when  I  roused  him  suddenly,  he  cried  "  Allah"  with  the 
greatest  earnestness,  thinking  the  Abyssinians  were  upon 
him,  and  that  his  iinal  doom  had  come.  No  one  saw  or 
card  this  in  the  dark,  and  1  tell  it  as  an  illustration  of  this 
peculiarity  in  their  character.  These  Arabs  retaining  their 
primitive  manner  of  thought,  tike  that  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment people,  their  simple  minds  fully  believe  in  a  special 
divine  interference ;  Allah  givc-s  them  money,  and  Allah 
takes  it  from  them  ;  nothing  happens  that  Allah  has  not 
specially  arranged. 

A  toilsome  march  over  rocky  hills  brought  us  to  Addi 
Rasso,  where  wc  were  delighted  to  find  limpid  water,  a  rich 
vegetation,  and  beautiful  shady  trees.  The  rocky  cliffs 
were  so  different  from  the  I1.it  lands  of  the  Delta  in  Egypt 
that  the  Egj-ptians  expressed  their  conviction  that  "  Allah 
was  great"  to  have  made  such  wondrous  things.  But  sud- 
denly coming  upon  the  nodding  date-trees,  growing  wild 
here,  their  enchantment  knew  no  bounds ;  they  showed 
their  pleasure  by  hugging  and  kissing  them,  reminded  thus 
of  home  and  their  poor  miserable  huts  and  families.  No 
man  has  a  greater  attachment  for  his  humble  home  with  all 


37» 


TUE  MARCH  tNTO    THE  INTERlQlt, 


the  trials  incident  to  this  domestic  devotion.  Though 
living  under  a  despotic  government,  with  its  tyranny,  he 
prefers  it  to  »II  others,  because  he  is  taught  to  believe  tl 
to  be  the  mainspring  of  his  peculiar  faith.  He  loves  tO'' 
nil  in  the  door  of  his  hut  after  his  toil  is  over,  and  drink 
his  coffee  and  smoke  his  pipe  and  declare  that  "  God  is 
great,  and  Mahomet  is  his  prophet."  This  is  his  highest 
idea  of  human  happines.t. 

Abbi  Duflot  says  that  tradition  makes  this  spot  the 
boiindarj*  line  of  the  Saracenic  invasion,  and  that  the  plant- 
ing of  these  trees  is  the  only  vestige  left  to  mark  the  course 
of  the  invader.  The  weakness  of  transpoitation  again. 
caused  the  road  to  be  strewed  with  the  property  of  the 
command,  and  there  was  another  lessening  of  baggage  and 
reorganization  of  transportation.  To  secure  this  depot  a 
fortification  was  ordered  for  two  companies  and  two  guns. 
No  thought  was  given  to  trails.  This  made  littl^  differ^ 
ence,  as  the  Abyssioians  travelled  without  encumbrance, 
taking  always  the  shortest  cut  and  cros.<(ing  mountains 
at  pleasure.  While  I  wa5  engaged  in  conversation,  an  hour 
before  day,  with  the  commanding  general  at  bis  tent,  about 
the  march  for  that  day,  an  Arab  officer  came  to  him  to 
say  that  Colonel  Dye  was  violently  assaulting  Ibrahim 
Lutfy  Cffendi.  The  general  requested  me  to  go  at  once  to 
the  scene  of  action.  I  hastened,  but  did  not  get  there 
until  after  the  difficulty  was  ended.  Colonel  Dye  com- 
plained of  Lutfy's  having  that  day  disobeyed  some  order, 
and,  I  believe,  of  having  left  a  valuable  box  upon  the 
road.  The  Effendi  protested  that  he  had  done  all  that  had 
been  ordered,  and  that  he  had  been  suddenly  struckwithout 
cause  or  provocation.  As  this  affair  subsequently  caused 
some  difficulty,  and  as  the  story  became  known  in  many  ver- 
sions, I  sent  a  letter  to  Egypt  since  coming  to  America, 
and  received  the  following  statement  from  an  officer  high  in 
authority  (chief  of  staff),  who  could  best  give  an  accurate 
account  of  the  matter  : 


■JHB  MAKCH  INTO   TUB  WTEtHOX. 


373 


"  Ibrahim  Luify  Effcndi  on  his  return  from  Abyssinia,  or 
father  a  considerable  time  after  his  return,  probably  urged 
to  it  by  some  high  Turkish  official,  made  a  complaint 
against  Colonel  Dye  for  striking  him,  and  demanded 
justice.  Hassan  Pacha,  Minister  of  War.  ordered  a  court* 
martial  to  try  the  case,  placing  the  court  under  the  presi- 
dency of  Koozroo  Pacha,  and  naming  as  members  two 
Americans.  Colonels  Colston  and  Field.  I  tried  first  to 
have  the  matter  settled  amicably,  but  failed  utteriy. 
Colonel  Dye.  on  assembling  of  the  court,  did  not  appear. 
I  hail  not  in  any  manner  been  consulted  on  the  subject 
by  the  minister,  but  seeing  trouble  and  scandal  ahead  for 
the  army,  went  to  Chcrif  Pacha  and  to  Prince  Hassan. 
The  latter  was  very  angry  about  the  matter,  biiter  against 
Colonel  Dye,  and  evidently  a  little  against  mc  for  what  I 
had  said  on  the  subject  to  Effaltoon  Pacha.  After  a  long 
conversation  he  asked  me  what  I  would  be  satisfied  with 
in  the  matter  of  the  court,  adding  that  he  was  determined 
to  have  the  case  tried.  1  then  told  him  that  the  court 
ought  to  have  only  the  power  of  a  court  of  inquiry,  and 
that  the  chances  of  the  two  officers  should  be  made  more 
equal.  That  as  it  stood,  Lutfy  could  make  himself  under- 
stood by  all  the  members  of  the  court  in  their  own  lan- 
guages, while  all  that  the  other  could  say  would  have  to  be 
translated  to  more  than  half  the  court.  He  then  consented 
to  Effaltoon  Pacha  being  on  the  court,  as  he  understood 
both  English  and  Arabic.  In  the  mean  time  Colonel  Dye 
went  to  Mr.  Fnrman  and  claimed  protection  of  the  consul- 
general  ;  so  it  wa-H  arranged  that  Colonel  Dye  should  resign 
his  commission,  and  the  proceedings  of  the  court  cease- 
Colonel  Dye  never  appeared  before  the  court  ;  thus  the  case 
was  never  tried.  Yet  Colonel  Dye  received  the  same  pay 
and  indemnity  that  he  would  have  had  he  been  discharged, 
and  the  government  gave  him  j^iooo  on  account  of  the 
wound  he  had  received  in  Abyssinia.  This  ended  Colonel 
Dye's  service  in  Egypt." 


CHAPTER    VI 


INCIDENTS  AND   EXPERIENCES  OF  OUR   PROGRESS. 


Eunpkof  AtabCuiitletHn— Profution  odtaimalllfe — Fine  mirchlog  <)aa]- 
itic*  of  Ecyi><uin  iroopf — Front  view  of  Ihe  vall«y  of  Gura— R*ilt 
cod  jenly  changes  ihe  pTcdclcrrninr<]  pUn  withoul  contultinn;  Ibt  cbiof- 
o4  usS— Cbararlcriiiks  of  tbefliuaof  tbccounlry — Arrival  o(  an  Abys- 
•inian  chid  hoMlle  to  King  John— Hi*  pioSetcO  services  tthised— AbM 
Dullot  is  MDI  lor  by  the  oocnmsmlinc  general— S«r  vie cb  fen4efrd  by 
■fall  able  and  dcvottd  inafl-~Anoth(f  inuaace  of  RatibS  cowaidlM  and 
lellj'— Me  (koany  agrtv  to  move  Ititiber  Into  ih«  valley  of  Gnm.— 
Ointlautd  btanderloK  la  changing  a  pMliloa^Genefal  Field  aenl  (c 
the  icar  lo  i«Kula(e  the  baie  ol  lupplie*  and  comraunlcoiioM  aad  u 
arge  lonvanl  «uppli«9 — The  ramcl  and  bis  impoii;ince  in  the  drtert— 
The  taiarl  curmonnt — How  Rallb't  proclaniatioa  "a>  reeeived  by 
Kinc  Ji>ha-^Anoiher  diuffec ted  chief  ofTet*  hii  seivicct  lo  the  Egyp' 
liant— Convefsaiion  with  ihls  chief— The  tUogcroui  diseOBC*  pfcvitleol 
In  Abyaijnia— The  oia»k  of  the  counuy.  JH 

I  WAS  much  inferested  dtiring  our  next  march,  while 
riding  over  the  plains  of  Halua,  by  a  conversatiofi  with  an 
intelligent  Arab  who  had  been  educated  in  Europe.  We 
saw  upon  a  tree  a  beautiful  little  Abyssinian  parrut,  about 
the  size  of  a  Florida  paroquet  and  not  unlike  it  in  its 
dress  of  green  and  gold.  It  had  probably  strayed,  for  it 
was  alone.  He  said  to  me,  "You  know  that  we  have  a 
belief  in  our  religion,  and  many  give  credence  to  it,  that  all 
of  us  who  are  kilted  in  balllc  for  our  faith  go  at  once  to 
heaven."  But  I  replied,  "  Vou  are  not  fighting  for  your 
faith  in  Abyssinia."  "Ah!  but  we  consider  if  we  battle 
under  a  Mahometan  government  that  wc  are  martyrs  in 
that  sense.  Our  belief  is.  thai  until  the  day  of  judgment, 
the  souls  of  the  Faithful  go  into  the  crops  of  green  birds, 
which  cat  of  the  fruits  of  Paradise  and  drink  of  its  riven. 


INCIDENTS  AND  EXPERIENCES  OF  OUR  PROGRESS.    375 


Look  at  that  beautiful  bird,"  he  said  ;"  I  wonder  if  it  will 
plca&c  Allah  that  1  shall  be  killed  and  my  soul  take  its  flight 
to  Paradi-jc  in  its  crop."  I  was  familiar  with  this  belief, 
nevertheless  this  incident  gave  it  a  distinctly  personal 
flavor. 

The  trail,  rugged  at  th:  outset,  had  now  spread  itself  into 
the  broad  plains  of  Halua.  Still  the  thorny  mimosa  and 
grassy  vegetation  were  abundant.  The  partridge,  the  flight 
of  quail,  the  guinea-fowl,  the  ever-beautiful  gazelle,  and 
innumerable  small  birds  richly  colored  and  singing  merrily, 
enlivened  the  long  inarch.  The  bustard  is  also  found  here, 
which  is  nearer  in  size  to  the  ostrich  than  any  bird  in  this 
part  of  Abyssinia.  Numerous  antelopes  and  a  magnificent 
animal  called  elan,  a  lai^e  species  of  the  nnlelope,  with 
long,  corkscrew  horns,  were  seen  along  our  route.  Gen- 
eral Field,  our  great  hunter,  killed  a  splendid  buck  at 
Bahr  Kezza.  So  far  we  had  found  no  settlements  near 
our  trail,  though  passing  through  a  broad  VHlIey.  a  sort 
of  circle  in  the  centre  of  a  nest  of  high  mountains  with 
innumerable  trails  covered  with  stumpy  mimosa.  Some 
distance  to  the  right  there  was  a  heavy  growth,  and  now 
and  then  a  stray  Abyssinian  wa»  seen,  who  pretended 
to  be  friendly  ;  this  caused  the  general  to  search  his 
map  very  carefully  for  fear  these  stragglers"  presence  might 
portend  the  advance  of  King  John. 

Throughout  this  day  the  splendid  marching  quality  of 
the  Egyptian  was  observable,  and  wc  had  a  good  chance  to 
test  ii.  Stepping  close  to  the  ground,  he  moves  easily 
along  without  fatigue.  He  is  tall  and  finely  proportioned  ; 
never  touching  bacon,  and  living  upon  little,  mostly  bread 
and  vegetables,  he  has  no  surplus  flesh  about  him  ;  never 
taking  strong  drink,  his  blood  course.t  purely,  and  he  is  the 
healthiest  soldier  in  the  world.  Free  from  the  effects  of 
liquor,  his  blood  unexcited,  painful  and  dangerous  wounds 
heal  rapidly,  and,  whether  or  not  it  be  the  result  of  fatalism 
ingrained  in  his  very  existence,  he  bears,  while  calling  upon 


37*    /tVC/£>£.VrS  AlfD  EXPERtEHCES  OF  OUK  PflOCRESS. 


rver 


Allali,  the  most  excruciating  agony  from  wounds  withi 
fortitude  approaching  :ihnost  to  apathy.  I  have  nev 
seen,  even  among  the  most  determined  men  o(  our  Weatcrn 
civilization,  more  indiRercncc  to  sufTcring  or  more  heroic 
fortitude  in  submitting  to  fearful  operations.  And  when 
death  approaches,  he  meets  it  without  a  murmur.  In  an- 
swer to  a  word  of  sympathy,  his  invariable  reply  is  "InaAlil- 
laafioejja/i  inakillikee  raagcfffon"  ("  Verily  to  God  we  be- 
long, and  verily  to  Ilim  we  return") !  An  inquiry  about  his 
health  evokes  the  reply,  " Alkam  dtrUrlah  raliak  Karetm" 
("  PraLie  be  to  Cod  \     Our  Lord  is  bountiful  "). 

Thii  day's  march  finished,  we  encamped  in  a  pocket  in 
the  mountain  of  Khaya  Khor,  which  was  covered  with  a 
thick  growth  of  the  mimosa,  and  was  near  a  small  Abys> 
sinian  village.  We  found  a  trail  le;iding  through  our  camp, 
gently  at  first,  but  afterward  abruptly  to  the  top  of  the  pass 
over  ihe  mountain.  After  our  severe  march  we  found  it 
difficult  to  get  water.  Upon  the  height,  over  3ax>  feet 
above,  wc  placed  a  strong  guard  for  the  night,  as  wc  were 
approaching  the  village  of  the  enemy.  Next  morning, 
having  climbed  the  pass,  we  had  a  pleasant  and  gradual  de- 
scent to  the  plateau  or  table-lands  of  Abyssinia.  From 
this  pass,  which  is  hemmed  in,  wc  got  a  slight  glimpse  of 
the  plain  of  Halua  and  of  the  small  sombre  valley  of  Gura. 
which  is  about  eight  miles  long  and  two  broad.  There  arc 
heights  around  the  valley  of  Gura,  which  1  climbed  in  order 
to  view  the  great  nest  of  mountains  of  Abyssinia,  which 
can  be  fully  appreciated  in  all  their  beauty  from  this  point 
alone.  fl 

Before  leaving  Massowah,  we  had^  with   the  aids  me^ 
tioncd,  learned  the  way.s  to  Khaya  Khor;  and  there  was  not 
an  intelligent  staff  officer  who  cared  to  le-tni  them  that  did 
not   have   a   perfect   knowledge   of   ilie   p.i*)a   and   its  ap- 
proaches, the  valley  of  Gura  and  the  trails  entering  in  and^ 
out  of  it,  the  places  and  quantity  of  wood  and  water  ir 
the  surrounding  htlt»,  their  probable  height,  and  the  villa 


/.S'CIDENTS  Ann  EXPERIENCES  OF  OUK  PROGRESS.    377 


in  the  valle)'  and  on  the  sides.  So  when  w«  entered  the 
valley,  General  Field,  the  inspector -general  of  the  army, 
whose  duty  it  w;is  to  place  the  camp,  and  myself  were  in 
advance  of  the  army  on  the  trail  leading  to  the  camp 
selected  before  we  teft  Massow.ih.  A  few  miles  after  leav- 
int*  ihe  pass  near  the  centre  of  the  valley,  and  just  before 
coming  to  the  camp,  tlic  forces  were  suddenly  halted  by 
Ratib  Pacha,  and  to  our  surprise  turned  off  to  the  left. 
Passing  through  the  villa|;c  of  Gura  and  over  a  high  hill  wc 
descended  into  a  very  small  contracted  valley  without  trees, 
or  even  undergrowth,  scarcely  large  enough  to  hold  us  and 
entirely  surrounded  by  high,  heavily  timbered  hills  and 
completely  commanded  by  them.  The  army  was  in  a 
splendid  place  for  King  John  to  creep  down  upon  us.  A 
Remington  rifle  could  reach  any  spot  in  the  camp  from  the 
encircling  hills.  It  was  as  complete  a  cul-de-sac  as  an  army 
ever  got  intii,  and.  considcitng  th-tt  a  wily  enemy  was  on 
the  lookout,  it  was  a  most  dangerous  position.  The  occa- 
sion of  this  change  of  mfnd  on  the  part  of  the  commander 
was  thai  he  had  met  a  chief  of  the  rillagc  who,  he  thought, 
knew  better  than  he  did  where  an  army  ought  to  camp. 
He  crossed  the  mountain  ridge  and  established  the  camp 
before  he  could  be  reasoned  with.  This  camp  w.-is  a  sort  of 
pen  for  and  was  tilled  with  the  small,  long-horned,  and 
humped  cattle  of  Abyssinia  which,  with  the  tcff,  doura, 
and  barley,  constitute  the  people's  food.  The  water  was  in 
holes  and  difficult  to  get  at,  besides  being  dabbled  in  by 
the  cattle  and  the  people.  The  grass  was  short,  well 
cropped,  and  little  was  left  for  our  animals  to  feed  on. 
The  horns  of  these  Abyssinian  cattle  arc  very  long,  but  Salt 
says,  when  in  the  country  of  the  Gallas  east  of  Abyssinia. 
a  pair  were  given  him,  now  in  the  museum  at  London,  four 
feet  long  and  measuring  twenty-one  inches  in  circumference 
at  the  base.  I  will  mention  that  on  the  hills  near  this 
encampment  I  saw  a  most  interesting  tree,  called  by  the 
natives  kolkuaL      It  answers  to  the  description  of  a   Eu- 


378    TlfCIDEKTS  AND  EXPEftlBNCSS  OF  OUR  PKOCRSSS. 

phorbia  AtboTcsc«nt.  It  has  alt  the  appearance  of  the  cactus, 
grows  to  a  great  sixc,  and  spreading  out  its  branches  covers 
a  large  extent  of  ground.  Other  travellers  have  likened  it 
to  a  huge  candelabrum.  Covered  wiih  thorns,  it  bears  a 
small  saFTron-colored  flower  and  has  a  fruit  in  shape  like  a 
fig.  When  pierced  a  slimy  substance  exudes  which  is 
deadly  poisonous.  Colonel  Mtikin  killed  near  here  a  bird 
resembling  in  site,  color,  and  taste  thi:  black-cock  of  Russia, 
and  small  game,  gazelles,  and  anlelojics  were  everywhere 
very  abundant. 

The  Egyptians  called  this  people  Hahaishe.  Abadie 
writes  that  the  Portuguese,  about  the  middle  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  called  them  Habaichi,  then  Abexuin,  and 
finally  Abyssinians,  The  name  given  them  by  the  Aiab  was 
one  of  opprobrium,  meaning  a  people  without  genealogy. 
This  change  of  names  is  something  like  what  occurs  in 
America  when  pronouncing  foreign  names.  A  river  in 
Oregon,  named  by  the  Frenth  voyagers  La  Creole,  is  now 
pronounced  and  written  on  the  map  Kickrcall.  The 
Abyssinians  designate  their  country  as  the  kingdom  of 
Ethiopia,  and  name  themselves  Ethiopians. 

Our  coming  to  this  camp  was  marked  by  the  arrival  of 
Lcige  Barrou,  an  enemy  of  King  John,  who  had  just  burned 
for  this  chief  his  village  AdJn-Huata  and  a  number  of 
others  of  those  who  had  adhered  to  his  cause.  Being 
friendly  disposed,  he  came  to  offer  his  services  to  Katib 
Pacha.  lie  was  tall,  magnificently  formed,  and  much  the 
finest  specimen  of  an  Abyssinian  we  had  yet  seen.  He 
came  into  our  camp  with  drums  and  horns,  accompanied  bjr 
the  usual  rag-tag  and  bob-tail.  Mild  and  pleasantly  man- 
nered, he  claimed  royal  descent  .ind  was  anxious  to  join  in 
the  Rght.  He  could  have  rallied  a  large  following  of  the 
disaffected.  Rntib  Pticha  positively  refused  to  accept  his 
services,  as  he  did  in  the  case  of  all  others  ;  why  he  could 
never  explain.  I  could  hear  of  no  orders  from  higher 
authority  against  it.     Possibly  it  was  that  he  did  not  intend 


INCIDENTS  AND  EXPEKiENCES  OF  OUH  PROGRESS.    379 


to  figlit  ntucl)  if  he  could  avoid  it.  and  did  not  want 
many  allies  to  help  him.  At  fir<tt  Ratib  Facha  took  a  great 
liking  to  the  chief,  but  his  Mahometan  dragoman,  Adam 
(Naib),  a  Shoho  chief  from  the  coast,  persuaded  him  out  of 
the  notion.  1  was  desirous,  as  a  matter  of  course,  to  get 
further  information  of  tlie  dilTerent  trails  leading  to  Adua. 
Ihc  king's  capital,  which  when  Ratib  left  Cairo  was  an 
objective  point.  To  the  end  that  maps  might  be  arranged 
with  a  certain  knowledge  of  the  countiy  for  the  use  of  the 
commanding  general,  reliable  guides  were  necessary.  Fail* 
ing  to  get  thc5c  among  the  natives,  it  became  absolutely 
necessary  to  procure  the  services  of  Abb6  Duflot,  the  only 
one  who  had  given  accurate  information,  and  really  the 
only  one  so  far  as  I  knew  in  Abyssinia  who  could  give  it. 
He  was  then  absent  at  some  distance  in  his  province.  The 
endeavor  to  send  for  htm  by  onr.  of  the  natives  was 
thwarted  by  this  fellow  Adam,  under  the  sneaking  connt* 
vancc  of  Ratib  Pacha,  whom  I  caught  in  the  trick.  I  have 
never  been  able  to  put  any  other  interpretation  upon  this 
conduct  of  Katib  than  that  his  fears  were  aroused,  for  he  had 
already  satisfied  me  that  he  wa»  morally  and  physically  an 
arrant  coward.  He  dreaded  that  he  might,  if  he  had  in- 
formation, be  forced  to  move  forward.  However,  after  a 
few  days  this  was  all  changed,  and  he  suddenly  became 
anxious  for  it.  Finding  that  all  the  information  he  had  got 
of  King  John's  movements  in  the  distance  proved  false, 
and  that  even  the  trails  that  Adam  and  his  employes  had 
settled  on  as  to  Adua  were  calculated  to  lead  him  into  a 
snare,  he  became  anxious  for  the  Abb£.  and  an  express  was 
sent  for  him.  1  will  say  here  that  I  am  not  a  Catholic,  but 
my  attachment  for  this  brave  and  good  man  was  founded 
upon  sincere  respect  for  his  many  manly  virtues,  for  the 
great  sabering  he  had  undets;onc  among  these  savages  for 
his  numerous  people,  and  for  his  religion.  I  knew  that  he 
was  sincerely  anxious  to  aid  us,  and  that  he  would  have 
been  pleased  to  see  Abyssinia  under  the  Egyptian  Govern- 


380    /ATC/nSiVTS  AMD  SXJ'EKIEKCES  OF  OUR  PROGRRSS. 


mcnt.  He  did  more  than  any  one  belonging  to  the  country 
to  help  uit,  thinking  that  he  and  a  large  tribe  where  his 
influence  was  paramount  would  soon  have  protection  against 
the  constant  tyranny  to  which  they  were  subjected.  Upon 
coining  he  gave  us  the  necessary  information,  and  went  so 
far  as  to  take  his  life  into  his  hands  and  go  with  Captain 
Irgins  into  the  enemy's  lines  to  enable  us  not  only  to  get  a 
map  of  the  country,  but  to  bring  us  valuable  information 
of  the  movements  of  the  king.  During  this  interesting 
episode  Ratib  became  satisfied  from  information  obtained, 
as  he  said  privately,  which  really  was  not  true,  that  the 
enemy  was  only  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  distant  on  the 
Adua  road  and  was  about  to  throw  himself  upon  him. 
Thoroughly  alarmed,  without  regard  for  the  future,  and 
taking  counsel  from  his  fears,  he  sent  a  dispatch  ordering 
the  greater  part  of  his  forces,  strung  along  the  line  in  bis 
rear,  to  his  camp,  and  at  once  commenced  fortifying  the 
western  hill  far  away  from  water.  Before  sending  his  order, 
1  expostulated  with  him  in  the  most  forcible  language  I 
could  find,  urging  upon  him  the  fact  that  he  had  6000 
troops  of  all  arms  with  a  heavy  park  of  artillery  at  his  camp 
in  a  cui-di-sae,  and  that  it  was  folly  to  fortify  the  position 
he  proposed  ;  I  told  him  that  it  was  the  part  of  wisdom  to 
move  into  the  valley  of  Gura,  about  two  miles  distant,  and 
there  make  his  camp,  with  the  double  object  of  protecting 
the  pass  of  Kliaya  Khor,  and  fortifying  for  a  depot,  which  tic 
needed,  where  he  could  safely  leave  baggage  and  supplies, 
when  he  desired,  with  a  small  force  ;  that  he  could  thero 
find  abundance  of  wood,  water,  and  grass,  while  his  present 
situation  was  deficient  in  water  for  a  permanent  camp.  I 
urged  on  him  that  he  could  find  abundance  of  water  almost 
anywhere  in  the  numerous  dry  beds  of  rivers  in  the  valley, 
^lere  being  a  substratum  of  rock  a  few  feet  beneath  the 
surface  which  retained  it,  and  by  digging  he  could  get 
abundance — ccnainly  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  pass 
or  at  the  camp  originally  selected,  three  or   four   miles 


/jrCIDEJiTTS  AND  EXP£RlliNCES  OP  OUR  PROGRESS.    381 

below,  which  wasonly  a  few  miles  from  Khaya  Khor.  With 
liis  force  fortified  he  could  defy  the  enemy.  His  people 
had  managed  so  badly  with  their  transportation  that  there 
was  not  food  enough  for  additional  troops,  and  with  his 
limited  transportation  he  could  never  hope  to  keep  his  com- 
mand supplied  in  the  valley  unless  he  increased  his  means 
beforehand.  I  also  called  to  my  aid  the  Piincc,  who  then 
had  influence  with  Ratib,  and  succeeded  in  countciacting 
some  of  his  folly.  Finally  he  agreed  to  move  into  the  valley 
if  I  slioutd  find  for  him  a  suitable  camp. 

The  engineers  selected  a  position  about  two  and  a  half 
miles  from  Khaya  Khor,  and  commenced  digging  wells. 
In  a  shoft  time  there  would  have  been  an  unlimited  water 
supply  for  his  army,  including  the  immense  number  of  ani- 
mals ;  besides,  the  spot  had  all  the  requisites  for  a  depot 
and  foitifi cation.  Unfortunately,  Ratib  came  to  look  on, 
and  decided  not  to  take  the  place  iiclected.  T1i)»,  as  the 
result  soon  taught  him,  was  a  fatal  mistake.  Stiiking 
while  the  iron  was  hot,  I  finally  persuaded  him  to  muvc  to 
water  in  the  valley  two  or  three  miles  from  his  camp,  which 
would  do  very  well  for  the  present.  He  had  no  sooner 
pitched  his  tent  on  the  2d  of  February  than  he  commenced 
fortifying.  There  was  subsequent  talk  of  moving  nearer 
Khaya  Khor,  but  he  was  impressed  with  the  idea  that  the 
enemy  might  suddenly  come  upon  him,  and  for  other  rea- 
sons known  best  to  himself  the  movement  was  given  up. 
This  was  another  fatal  mistake  of  Ratib.  It  would  have 
been  better  for  him  to  be  nearer  Khaya  Khor,  and  with 
that  pass  fortified  he  would  have  been  secure  from  attack, 
and  his  forces  would  have  been  more  closely  drawn  to* 
gether.  With  any  other  commander  it  would  have  made 
little  difference  ;  the  place  he  held  would  have  answered. 
With  him  every  military  principle  was  set  at  defiance,  and 
his  fears  at  times  possessed  htm  to  such  a  degree  that  his 
senses  seemed  completely  benumbed.  Every  exertion  was 
used  to  handle  the  elephant  and  keep  him  straight,  but  In 


Lb. 


38»    INCIDENTS  AND  EXPEK/ENCES  OF  OUR  PSOCRESS. 

spite  of  earnest  and  persistent  care  he  constantly  rusbcd 
into  difficultieit,  and  tlien  only  by  careful  watching  was  it 
possible  to  keep  him  from  certain  ruin.  Colonel  Derrick 
soon  threw  up  an  impregnable  fortification,  which  did  him 
great  credit,  and  answered  all  that  we  required,  and  event- 
ually stood  the  tent  of  a  severe  ordeal.  General  Field  was 
sent  to  the  rear  to  take  charge  of  the  transportation,  and 
by  main  strength  of  will  and  energy,  with  his  able  assistant, 
he  brought  some  regularity  out  of  chaos.  But  the  constant 
interference  of  Ratib  Pacha  and  his  Egyptian  commanders. 
in  violation  of  his  owm  instructions  regulatly  issued, 
thwarted  him  no  little  in  this  impoit.int  duty.  If  he  had 
been  allowed  to  carry  out  his  orders  there  would  not  have 
been  the  slightest  difficulty  in  his  having  the  troops  and 
supplies  at  Fort  Gura  or  Khaya  Khor  in  ample  time,  not- 
withstanding  that  those  who  had  the  control  of  the  trans- 
portation had,  by  their  wretched  management,  lessened  the 
number  of  animals  by  the  22d  of  Fcbiuar)' by  some  1900. 
Many  of  them  had  died,  and  the  usefulness  of  others  was 
destroyed.  A  part  of  this  wholesale  destruction  came  from 
not  properly  feeding  and  watering  the  animals  on  the  road. 
disregard  of  their  wounds,  in  never  removing  the  pack> 
saddle,  if  the  drivers  could  help  it,  of  either  camel  or  mule, 
which  was  the  transportation  entirely  used,  and  in  overwork- 
ing them,  particularly  with  forbidden  property  by  Egyptiaa 
commanding  officers.  In  my  experience  the  camel  on  the 
desert  has  a  very  hard  time  ;  and  man,  his  companion, 
shares  the  same  exposure  and  sufTcring  for  want  of  water 
and  food  ;  but  never  had  I  witnessed  such  utter  disregard 
for  the  poor  camel,  where  food  was  comparatively  abun- 
dant, as  in  this  campaign.  Having  made  with  a  large  con^ 
mand  the  longest  march  on  record  over  a  trackless  countrjql 
and  having  had  many  animals  necessarily  die  from  starva- 
tion and  want  of  water,  I  can  speak  ah  few  can,  when  I  say 
that  for  cruelty  and  wanton  waste  of  animal  life  in  this_ 
Abyssinian  war  there  is  no  parallel.     There  was  no  cxci 


INCIDENTS  AND  EXPERIENCES  OF  OUR  PROCUESS.    383 

for  it,  for  the  camel  will  live  on  what  no  other  animal  will 
touch.  The  caililagcs  which  line  his  lips  and  mouth  are 
insensible  to  the  ruugh  food  and  pricking  thorns  of  the 
bushes  of  the  desert.  He  grinds  the  date  seeds  to  powder 
after  man  has  eaten  the  fruit,  and  relishes  them  with  zest. 
He  has  such  a  delicate  sense  of  smell  that  after  going  six 
days  without  water,  he  often  lets  his  master  know  where  it 
is  to  be  found.  Called  the  ship  of  the  desert,  he  is  far 
more  independent  than  any  ship.  With  bags  of  boxomat 
(biscuits),  dates,  and  n  skin  of  water  he  enables  man  to  track 
those  otherwise  pathless  w.-istes.  No  one  doubts  his  affec- 
tion, on  seeing  him  look  with  his  large  amiable  eye  :it  his 
master  from  under  his  great  long  eyelashes.  When  talked 
to  he  seems  to  understand,  and  always  quickens  his  pace 
when  sung  to.  When  trained,  by  a  simple  touch  and  a 
peculiar  sympathetic  intonation  of  the  voice,  the  docile 
creature  will  lie  down  and  get  up  at  his  ma.-iter's  bidding. 
A  prc-lshmaclite  poet  thus  describes  himself  and  his  camel : 

"My  body  can  endure  everything,  but  my  soul  cannot  cMlure  dis* 
grace  ; 
I  am  the  son  ol  patience,  and  the  camel  is  my  companion." 

The  eumel  is  not  found  upon  the  earliest  monuments  of 
Egypt,  yet  was  a  part  of  the  wealth  of  Abraham  when  in 
Egypt  during  the  time  of  the  Hyksos  dynasty.  He  may 
have  been  introduced  by  these  Semitic  Pharaohs.  He  has 
never  been  found  wild,  and  cannot  be  h-ippy  without  man, 
there  is  such  evident  sympathy  between  them.  The  tradi- 
tion is  that  the  camel  was  formed  out  of  the  same  clay  with 
Adam  who,  when  turned  out  of  Paradise,  was  allowed  to 
take  his  camel  and  date-tree  with  him.  With  so  much  in. 
common  between  the  camel  and  man,  his  ill-treatment  is  a 
great  crime- 
There  was  a  species  of  refined  cruelty  which  came  to  my 
knowledge  as  having  been  inflicted  upon  the  poor  miserable 
animal  ;  and  I  will  say  that  Ratib,  who  had  a  stoic  indifTcr- 


3«4    INC/DEffTS  AND  EXPERIENCES  OF  OUR  PROGRESS. 

cncc  to  human  suffering,  when  it  came  to  his  knowledge, 
could  not  tolerate  this  visitation  upon  the  dumb  brute,  but 
took  dccidcti  mcasuics  to  stop  it.  It  seems  tliat  in  Kgypt, 
where  feu-  can  write  or  have  any  authorized  seal  with  which 
to  furnish  vouchers  for  public  properly  destroyed,  as  in  the 
case  of  animal:^,  men  who  rcpoil  lo»3e»  arc  compelled  to 
furnii^h  the  brand  of  the  dead  animal  as  a  voucher  for  its 
loss.  As  many  animals  were  too  weak  to  bear  their  bur- 
den and  were  left  on  the  road,  it  was  the  custom  of  ihcscj 
inhuman  r^iscals  to  cut  the  brand  out  of  the  living  animal. 
Camels  thus  mutilated  sometimes  gained  strength  by  resting 
.ind  came  into  camp,  and  it  was  in  this  way  that  we  learned 
of  this  horrible  practice.  Stiangc  to  say,  a  prclty  gray 
bird,  nearly  the  size  of  a  mocking-bird,  with  a  red  bill,  very 
active,  and  chirping  its  lively  air,  has  the  habit  of  sitting  on 
the  back  of  the  injured  animal  and  sticking  its  bill  into  his 
wounds.  Being  fond  of  living  flesh,  it  pushes  it  down  until 
its  taste  is  fully  gratified,  and  if  the  wound  is  healing  its 
great  delight  seems  to  be  to  reopen  it.  Upon  observing 
the  habits  of  this  winged  monster,  I  was  surprised  at  its 
great  skill  in  keeping  its  place  in  spite  of  the  biting,  kick- 
ing, and  brushing  of  the  animal  in  its  agony. 

There  were  many  supplies  in  the  country,  such  as  tefl, 
doura,  and  barley  flour,  nnd  an  unlimited  supply  of  cattle 
and  sheep.  To  induce  the  inhabitants  to  bring  them  into 
camp  a  maiket  was  established,  and  the  people  heartily  re. 
sponded.  Hut  their  treatment  by  the  Soudanese  soldier 
who  were  really  sav.-igcs  and  not  able  to  distinguish  bctween'l 
friend  and  foe,  destroyed  the  trade  to  a  great  extenL 
Timely  efTorts  by  the  Pacha,  :n  censuring  the  commanderaj 
of  troops  who  committed  the  outrages,  would  have  pr< 
served  the  useful  trade,  but  in  this  as  in  many  other  case 
he  neglected  his  duty. 

There  were  constant  complaints  from  the  office  cf  dis- 
obedience of  orders  on  the  part  of  the  Arab  officers  and 
men  ;  when    correction    could    be   effected    through    Ratib 


INaOBNTS  AND  EXPBRIBNCBS  OF  OUR  PROGRESS.    385 


Pacha,  it  was  always  done.  Officers  sometimes  protested 
that  they  could  not  understand  the  orders,  which  were  said 
to  be  too  voluminous  and  badly  tran&latcd.  This  may  have 
been  true  in  some  instances,  but  the  utmost  pains  were 
always  taken.  Certain  it  is  that  Ratib  was  often  worried, 
and  the  difficulty  kept  my  amtablc  temper  on  the  strain.  I 
vill  say  here  that  though  Ratib  was  thrown  in  constant 
contact  with  mc  in  many  of  these  trying  scenes,  he  never  in 
a  single  instance  showed  any  ill-temper  toward  me.  This 
much  justice  must  be  done  the  man,  with  all  his  faults. 
The  trials  of  the  staff  officers  were  very  great,  for,  as  a  nile, 
the  translators,  who  were  constantly  employed,  coutd  not 
at  times  make  out  their  own  translations,  which  were  no 
doubt  singular  compounds.  Upon  inquiring  of  the  people 
of  King  John  who  came  into  our  camp  if  he  had  ever 
received  3  proclamation  sent  to  the  people  of  Abyssinia, 
written  in  wh.it  purported  to  be  the  Amharic,  the  written 
language  of  the  country,  we  learned  that  a  document  of 
targe  size,  done  up  with  great  pretentiousness,  came  to 
King  John  as  he  was  squatting  on  his  throne  in  council. 
It  was  opened  by  the  king,  who  looked  at  the  great  seal. 
As  he  was  not  able  to  read  it,  it  was  passed  around  to  each 
of  his  head  men,  all  of  whom  failed  to  interpret  the  paper. 
The  abouna,  the  father  of  the  church,  was  sent  for,  and  in 
the  most  solemn  manner,  in  the  presence  of  the  eager 
throng,  he  took  the  paper  and  tried  to  make  it  out. 
Finally,  removing  his  spectacles  and  carefully  wiping  them, 
he  made  another  effort,  turning  the  paper  every  way. 
Being  supposed  to  be  the  most  learned  man  in  Abyssinia, 
and  not  wishing  to  lower  his  prestige,  he  was  most  anxious 
to  make  it  out,  for  all  eyes  were  upon  him,  in  eager  expec- 
tation. At  length,  handing  it  back  he  acknowledged  his 
inability  to  read  it. 

The  king  scanned  it,  wondering  what  Ratib  had  sent 
that  for.  His  Majesty  then  laughed,  in  which  he  was  foU 
lowed  by  his  counsellors,  chiefs,  and  lastly  by  the  whole 


386    I/faDE/fTS  AlfD  EXFERIESCES  OP  OUR  PROGRESS 

assemblage.  The  two  traditional  lions,  wlio  always  sat  < 
the  right  and  left  of  the  king,  started  at  the  unusual  sou: 
and  roared,  which  90  entertained  his  Highness,  who  t 
lieved  this  to  be  a  good  omen,  that  he  ordered  his  cellar 
be  emptied  of  its  ttigt,  the  national  beverage,  for  t 
assembled  public.  So  all  Abyssinia  was  happy  for  o 
day.  and  took  a  universal  drink  to  Ratib  Pacha.  It  im 
be  noticed  here  that  the  Amharic  looks  like  the  HebM 
and  is  said  to  be  derived  from  it.  1 

Another  of  the  princes  deposed  by  King  John,  Degab 
Weldo  Mikail.  came  into  camp  about  this  time  with  his  U 
sons  and  two  or  three  hundred  followers.  His  motl 
crowd  came  marching  in  military  fashion,  having  icami 
the  art  no  doubt  from  Arrcndnip,  with  whom  this  chiefs 
had  intercourse.  V 

Mikai]  was  a  large,  compactly  built  man  of  sixty,  stroi 
and  nervous.  He  had  a  splendid  he-id,  his  iron-gray  loc 
were  encircled  by  a  t>and  of  gold,  and  his  entire  head  w 
recking  with  melted  butter  which  made  his  neck  and  shoi 
ders  shiny  and  sleek  in  the  noon-day  sun.  His  mark< 
face,  prominent  Roman  nose,  and  deep-set  scintillating  cy 
had  a  wonderfully  cunning  and  knowing  expression.  K 
kuarie  (toga)  was  thrown  around  his  person,  a  rich  lebi 
(leopard)  skin  lay  over  his  shoulder,  a  curved  sabre  hung 
his  right  side,  and  a  buckler  of  rhinoceros  skin  glitterii 
with  brass  encircled  his  left  arm.  This  was  his  appcaran 
as  he  sat  on  his  horse  with  his  big  toes  in  his  stirrup,  at 
to  add  to  his  grandeur,  this  grave  and  dignified  savag 
covered  himself  with  a  traditional  red  umbrella.  Tho: 
who  followed  him,  and  some  in  advance,  beat  on  dniti 
and  blew  instruments  which  emitted  a  shrill,  piercir 
sound.  The  party  was  a  curious  medley  of  patched  ar 
parti-colored  humanity — of  chiefs,  warriors,  servants,  horsi 
and  mules,  promiscuously  mixed  as  they  came  pushing  ai 
knocking  to  get  the  best  place,  and  each  one  in  the  di 
order  trying  to  be  thought  the  biggest  chieftain  in  the  1 


mCIDEKTS  AND  EXPERIENCES  OF  OVR  PROGRESS.    387 


Looking  at  them  in  the  distance,  one  would  take  them  (or 
a  war-party  of  Comanches  on  a  trail  to  steal  cattle  from  the 
settlements.  The  chief  scented  pleased  with  my  acquaint- 
ance, for  he  gave  me  a  handsomely  caparisoned  mule,  ex* 
pecting  no  doubt  a  much  larger  present  in  return,  as  is  their 
custom.  I  was  puzzled  to  make  a  suitable  return,  as  they 
do  not  value  money,  salt  being  their  medium  of  cxchan(;c, 
and  now  and  then  the  Maria  Theresa  silver  dollar.  Doing 
the  best  I  could  to  make  him  a  return,  I  made  the  mule  and 
its  trappings  a  present  to  my  friend  Abb£  Duflot.  Unlike 
Letgc  Barrou,  he  did  not  cover  his  crown  with  a  red  tar- 
boosh (fez)  nor  encase  his  feet  in  red  pointed  Egyptian 
shoes. 

In  conversation  Mikall  said  that  he  was  "  descended 
from  royalty."  Upon  being  asked  if  he  was  related  to  Raz 
Mikaii,  who  seventy  years  before  held  great  power  and 
was  in  constant  wars  with  Raz  Welled  Sellassee,  he  replied 
that  he  w.os,  and  that  he  was  now  opposed  to  King  John, 
and  that  Rax  Welled  Sellassee,  who  wax  fighting  on  the 
side  of  the  king,  was  the  grandson  of  that  prince,  and  that 
they  were  still  on  opposite  sides.  I  demanded.  "  Why  do 
you  fight  against  the  king?*'  "  Becau»c  Kassa  (the  name 
they  call  him)  has  no  right  to  be  king  ;  he  is  nothing  but 
a  robber  and  sold  himself  to  the  English  for  a  few  old  guns 
and  an  old  English  uniform  ;  besides,  he  has  outraged  me 
and  my  family,  burned  my  villages,  killed  my  people,  and 
carried  off  my  cattle,  for  no  other  reason  than  to  break  the 
spirit  by  starving  the  stomach.  1  have  come  here  with  my 
people  to  help  the  Egyptians,  but  my  heart  is  sick  because 
they  will  not  let  me  do  so." 

"  I  see  your  people  cat  raw  meat  ;  do  you  like  it  T' 

"  Yes,  I  like  it  when  it  is  freshly  killed,  but  if  it  is  kept 
it  must  be  cooked." 

"  Is  it  true  that  your  people  cut  stealcs  out  of  living 
animals?" 


38&    maDBNTS  AtfD  BXPEtHENCBS  OF  OUR  PXOCXBSS. 

"  No  ;  I  ha\-e  ne\"er  known  that,  but  1  know  that  the 
Gatlas  drink  the  warm  blood  of  living  aaimats." 

"  I  hear  that  living  upon  raw  meat  makes  you  sick  some* 
times  y 

"  Yes,  where  people  live  upon  nothing  else.  They  have 
the  tape-worm.  Some  say  the  glutinous  matter  in  the  teff 
and  doura  when  not  well  cooked  causes  it." 

I  learned  that  the  remedy  for  this  ailment  comes  from 
the  flower  of  a  beautiful  tree  which  grows  in  the  high  alti- 
tudes of  Abyssinia  and  is  known  to  medical  men  ;  they  call 
it  here  the  irasso,  and  give  that  name  to  the  medicine.  It 
is  of  medium  height,  of  slender  and  graceful  body,  and  has 
symmetrical  branches.  The  edge«  of  its  green  leaves  are 
prettily  indented,  like  those  of  the  rose,  and  its  ftowers  are 
very  beautiful.  All  the  people  take  the  itossa  two  or  three 
times  a  month,  it  being  dangerous  to  take  too  much.  It  is 
administered  a  little  at  a  time,  expelling  portions  of  the 
tapc*worm  gradually  until  it  all  disappears.  It  is  a  most 
nauseous  medicine.  The  Abyssini.ins  take  the  dried  flower 
of  this  tree  and  crush  it  upon  a  stone  with  a  little  water  or 
t^igr  until  it  becomes  a  paste  ;  it  is  then  diluted,  and  some 
filter  it.  A  handful  of  dry  flowers  is  considered  a  dose. 
Many  attribute  this  di^uating  disease  to  eating  raw  meat 
without  salt  and  reeking  with  blood  just  after  it  is  killed. 
Others  think  it  comes  from  the  glutinous  matter  of  badly 
cooked  tefl  and  doura.  On  the  frontier  along  the  Rio 
Grande  in  the  early  days  (1851  to  1856)  it  was  a  commort 
thing  with  the  Mexican  people  there,  who  lived  almost 
entirely  upon  dried  beef  and  venison  without  cooking  it,  to 
be  afflicted  in  this  way.  In  Switzerland  it  is  said  to  be  the 
water  which  causes  the  disease  so  frequently  there.  This 
eating  of  raw  meat.  Baker  says,  is  universal  with  the  Arabs 
and  other  tribes  on  the  Atbara  and  throughout  the  desert  ; 
he  has  seen  them  cat  the  heart,  liver,  and  cntr.iils  of  the 
gazelle,  sheep,  and  buffalo,  while  cutting  them  up,  and  they 
consider  it  a  ionnr  bouchf  to  take  the  paunch  fresh  from  the 


WaOEA'TS  AS'D  EXPERIENCES  OF  OUR  PttOcltESS.    389 


animal,  sprinkle  the  contenU  of  the  galUblailder  upon  it, 
and  then  smack  their  lips  over  it.  It  is  also  done  by 
many  tribes  among  the  North  American  Indians. 

The  most  fearful  disease  in  Abyssinia  is  the  /rendeet 
(filaria).  This  is  supposed  to  be  communicated  by  the 
water.  It  is  caused  by  a  worm  which  installs  itself  usually 
in  the  leg  and  causes  it  to  swell  enormously.  No  lai^cr 
than  a  very  small  string,  the  wonn  is  imbedded  a  little  dis- 
tance under  the  skin  and  soon  produces  great  pain.  The 
savages  accustomed  to  il  make  what  they  call  doors  by 
burning  spot.s  along  the  route  of  the  worm  with  a  heated 
needle.  In  the  course  of  a  week  one  of  these  spots  festers 
into  a  small  white  boil,  through  which  the  head  issues. 
This  is  seized,  and  they  daily  with  great  care  wind  it  around 
a  stick  about  the  size  of  a  match,  and  in  about  a  week  it  is 
all  drawn  out.  In  case  this  parasitic  worm  is  broken,  in- 
flammation ensues  and  another  opening  is  necessary  ;  then 
the  trouble  becomes  more  dangerous.  I  saw  two  men  who 
had  accompanied  Colonel  Long  to  the  Equator  terribly 
afflicted  with  this  malady.  Another  ailment  is  an  enlarge- 
ment of  the  throat,  which  is  sometimes  cured  with  a  root, 
but  often  ends  in  death  from  suRocation  ;  and  elephantia- 
sis, itch,  and  scrofulous  diseases  are  frequent.  Dysentery 
during  the  cold  and  rainy  season  proves  fatal  to  Europeans, 
and  a  malignant  fever  lurk.s  on  the  rivers,  just  after  that 
season,  at  the  time  when  vegetable  malaria  is  rife.  This  is 
one  reason  why  the  people  of  the  country  during  this  season 
do  not  sleep  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  but  construct  their 
villages  high  enough  up  on  the  mountains  to  escape  the 
malaria  from  below.  The>-  have  another  reason  :  in  w.-ir 
mountain  elevations  are  their  principal  means  of  protection. 
From  these  mountain  cyiics  they  can  better  communicate 
with  their  neighbors.  It  is  their  custom  in  case  of  alarm 
for  the  whole  people  of  a  village  to  collect  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain  and  scream  ;  this  is  taken  up  from  some  other 
hill-top,  and  soon  the  tocsin  is  sounded  over  vast  stretches 


390    IffClDBXrS  AND  EXfERlENCES  OF  OUR  PROCtt&SS 

of  country  calling  their  friends  to  arms.  It  ts  not  suq>ris- 
ing  that  these  people  are  visited  by  the  extraordinary  mala- 
dies mentioned  when  it  is  considered  that  they  take  no 
sanitary  prcc^iutions,  but  live  in  lilth,  without  the  slightest 
attempt  at  cleanliness  in  eating  or  in  person.  They  never 
wash  themselves  except  on  holidays,  and  great  numbers  arc 
crowded, into  a  single  small  hut.  where  they  cook,  eat,  and 
sleep.  They  live  half  the  year  upon  teff  and  doura.  and 
the  other  half  upon  raw  meat,  hot  and  recking  from  the 
animal.  They  arc  utterly  debased  in  morals.  They  are 
drunken  when  they  can  get  strong  drink  ;  failing  in  this 
they  sw.'illow  grcal  qu.tntitics  of  teip  or  b^tua,  swilling  it  to 
get  at  a  few  drops  o(  alcohol.  No  wonder  the  tape-worm  and 
frcndcct  arc  so  common.  There  ts  no  more  healthy  coun- 
try in  the  world  than  these  beautiful  mountain  plateaus  are, 
for  the  air  is  pure  and  exhilarating,  and  ordinary  sanitar>' 
measures  are  neccssarj-  to  keep  the  country  free  of  disease. 
A  word  or  two  about  the  music  of  the  Abyssinian  may 
be  of  interest  while  I  am  speaking  of  their  cvcry.day  life. 
Every  one  who  goes  to  Axum  visits  the  great  church 
erected  by  the  Portuguese  during  their  stay  in  the  country, 
and  is  attracted  by  the  peculiarity  of  its  pictures,  among 
them  that  of  St.  George,  the  patron  saint  of  the  Abys- 
sinians.  They  point  to  another  picture  with  great  pride. 
It  is  a  painting  of  one  of  their  numerous  saints,  the  one 
whom  they  believe  gave  them  the  music  which  they  so  dole- 
fully drawl  out  in  their  religious  services,  than  which  to  their 
primitive  minds  nothing  is  more  delicious.  '*  Music  at  its 
origin  expresses  languor  and  sadness ;  it  is  a  grief,  pain- 
fully portrayed  by  those  whose  life  is  one  of  suffering  ;  the 
cry  of  war  succeeds  to  it.  The  song  of  mirth  and  joy 
comes  with  the  refinements  of  civilization,"  says  an  able 
writer.  The  Abyssinians  tell  you  of  the  tradition  of  their 
musical  saint,  how  he  gathered  the  three  notes  from  the 
three  beautifully  feathered  birds  he  heard  carolling  amid 
the  foliage  of  the  large  daro-tree  which  grew  near  the  great 


> 


WCIDENTS  AXD  £XPBillE/fCES  OF  OUR  PROGRESS.    391 

church,  and  combining  them  while  his  mind  was  inspired 
by  the  Holy  Trinity,  into  one  melodious  song.  He  then 
invented  an  instrument,  and  struck  his  chords  before  the 
delighted  king.  The  latter  was  so  enraptured  that  in 
planting  his  spear,  that  he  might  better  enjoy  the  delicious 
sounds,  he  struck  it  into  the  big  toe  of  the  celebrated  saint, 
who  was  so  absorbed  by  his  inspiration  that  he  had  not  the 
slightest  idea  oT  being  pinned  fast  to  the  earth.  Those, 
however,  who  have  ever  heard  the  hideous  din  which  the 
Abyssinians  call  music  are  forced  to  believe  that  the  saint 
had  no  ear  for  sweet  sounds,  and  the  birds  from  which  he 
copied  his  notes  must  have  produced  a  cacophony  so  dis- 
tressing as  to  make  the  nightingale  and  mocking-bird  com- 
mit instant  suicide. 


CHAPTER   IX, 


THE  LULL  BEFORE  THE  STORM. 


Rtflb  dbpOKi  o[  hlfl  would-be  AbyulnUn  alii**— Vkin  ■itrmpu  to  orKantte 
■  sjnMm  o[  tcouting  panics— The  terrible  (rigtit  of  Ihc  conmuKHoc 
geaeral— Move  menu  of  King  John— The  Abjratiaian'i  repnted  mesaag* 
lo  Rmltb — False  nlainii — Detnuriilliuloo  of  Ihe  Egypiltot — Utxer  tacfc 
otc&paciif  aod  counjjx  in  Riuib — The  council  of  war — Ccner»]  Loritig 
explains  the  siliuUon  and  lays  down  a  plan  o(  operations— His  advice 
Ignored  by  (be  couocil— WhAi  Prince  HassAn  w<l  —  Osman  Puchft 
orOcted  to  dcten  Khaya  Khor,  but  the  order  counictounded — Utter 
wonblcnnen  of  Osnan. 

These  two  worthies  (Lcigc  Barrou  and  Dcgatch  Mika^I) 
were  disposed  of  by  Ratib  giving  them  empty  promotions. 
Leigc  Barrou,  on  being  dismissed,  disappeared  entirely  ; 
the  other^  during  our  aflatr  of  the  7th,  succeeded  in  stealing 
one  of  King  John's  lions.  I  never  heard  of  anything  else 
he  did  on  that  occitMon.  His  offer  of  men  was  refused,  but 
he  was  promised  the  government  of  his  province  of  Hama- 
zen  and  made  a  pacha.  His  right  to  the  place  depended 
upon  whether  or  not  King  John  could  drive  him  out.  Hia 
honors  were  brief,  for  not  long  after  we  left  Abyssinia  the 
pacha  was  a  fugitive  within  the  frontier  of  Egypt.  As 
Ratib  had  no  authority  to  give  titles,  it  made  little  differ- 
ence, but  it  answered  his  purpose  to  keep  this  man  quiet. 

Before  leaving  Massowali  the  commanding  officer  was 
advised  to  organize  a  system  of  scouts  and  always  keep 
them  in  advance — a  corps  composed  of  the  best  ofllicers  and 
men  well  mounted.  But  he  put  the  matter  off  ;  his  army 
marched  along  haphazard,  relying  upon  Allah.  We  were 
no  sooner  encamped  in  the  valley  of  Gura  than  scouts 
became  necessary  (or  our  safety,  and  even  then  it  proved 


THE  LULL  BEFOJtS   TUB  ■STORM. 


593 


difRcult  to  orgnntxc  them.  Ratib  utationcd  one  third  of  ht3 
command  on  picket  on  the  hills  ranging  one  and  two  miles 
around  him,  and  strong  mounted  pickets  on  all  the  trails 
leading  to  his  fort.  Then  he  threw  a  line  of  sentinels 
around  his  fort  within  one  hundred  yards.  Besides  this  he 
kept  one  half  of  the  command  all  night  standing  at  the 
parapet  with  their  Remington  breech-loaders  charged  and 
lying  upon  it,  but  would  not  send  out  scouts,  the  [;rcat 
necessity  of  all  invading  armies.  Soon  there  wati  an  alarm 
of  the  approach  of  the  enemy.  The  men,  scared  by  the  ex- 
citement of  the  pacha,  cocked  thctr  pieces  in  the  dark  as 
the>'lay  upon  the  parapet,  with  all  the  thousands  outside  on 
guard  and  within  range  of  the  Remingtons.  At  the  least 
movement  they  would  no  doubt  have  fitcd,  and  there  is  no 
telling  the  damage  that  would  have  been  done  to  our  own 
people.  Luckily  news  came  from  the  front  that  the  alarm 
had  been  created  by  a  herd  of  cattle,  and  the  camp  for  the 
time  being  settled  down  into  peace  again.  After  no  little 
persuasion,  and  urged  by  the  prince,  who  told  Ratib  he 
was  making  old  women  of  his  soldiers,  the  commander 
finally  allowed  scouts  to  be  sent  out,  and  staff  officers  Der. 
rick.  Irgins,  Somani,  and  Dr.  Wilson  were  ordered  on  this 
important  duty.  The  king  in  the  mean  time  gathering  his 
clans  at  about  the  time  that  Kirkham  had  said  he  would, 
learned  from  his  spies  and  scouts  the  fact  that  Ratib  Pacha 
had  no  idea  of  moving  farther  into  the  interior,  which,  now 
that  he  was  strong,  would  have  suited  him  admirably.  It 
being  impossible  for  the  enormous  cavalcade  he  had  with 
htm — men,  women,  and  children  (for  they  all  go  to  war)— 
to  remain  many  days  in  any  one  locality,  he  was  forced  to 
begin  his  movement.  There  were  no  trains  or  baggage  to 
impede  him,  and  living  entirely  on  the  country  he  was  pftss* 
ing  over,  it  soon  became  known  that  he  was  south  of  us 
and  making  the  first  decided  demonstration.  De\'eloping 
clearly  his  plan  of  operations,  it  was  not  long  before  his 
advance  extended  to  the  March  River,  indicating  his  pur- 


3W 


TUB  LULL  BEFOKB  THE  STOEM. 


pose  to  march  to  our  rear.  Small  parties  spread  themseU'cs 
over  the  country  and  mounted  the  hill-tops  within  eight  or 
ten  miles  of  us.  In  the  mean  time  our  scouts,  under  deter- 
mined staff  officers,  very  often  obtained  sight  of  them,  and 
gave  chase,  running  them  from  the  field.  The  good  cfTect 
of  this  u|Kin  the  soldiers  was  at  once  observable  ;  they  h-id 
»een  tlic  enemy,  and  he  had  fled  before  them.  It  corrc* 
spondingly  alarmed  the  Abyssinians,  Upon  the  king  it 
was  salutary  ;  for  drawing  in  his  people  his  movement 
were  stopped.  Unfortunately,  while  these  matters  were 
going  on  an  event  occurred  which  in  its  result  did  us  incal- 
culable harm.  Captain  Irgins,  a  bold,  experienced  officer, 
had  been  ordered  out  with  a  large  scouting  party  on  the 
27th  of  February',  with  explicit  orders  to  do  a  certain  duty. 
While  he  was  engaged  in  cirrying  out  his  instructions  to 
the  letter,  Prince  Hassan  happened  to  go  out  of  camp  a 
short  distance  a  little  to  the  west  of  our  camp,  where  there 
was  a  rocky  eminence  overlooking  a  considerable  distance  ; 
and  standing  there  he  descried  smoke,  really  in  a  direction 
contrary  to  that  in  which  the  scouting  party  had  gone. 
Thereupon  he  rushed  hc-idlong  into  camp,  imagining  that  a 
fight  was  progressing,  and  imparted  the  terrible  news  to 
Ratib,  whose  fears  were  always  alive.  The  latter  went  a 
step  farther  and  conjectured  that  all  the  command  had  been 
butchered  by  the  Abyssinians.  Coming  into  camp  and 
finding  it  in  an  uproar  and  Ratib  excited,  and  instantly 
knowing  that  the  alarm  was  groundless,  1  tried  to  reason 
him  out  of  his  folly,  but  he  was  so  demented  as  to  be  in* 
capable  of  listening  to  reason. 

Without  ascertaining  the  road  the  reconnoitring  force 
had  taken,  he  sallied  out  with  a  still  larger  command  to  the 
rescue,  wringing  his  hands  before  his  soldiers  in  great  agony 
of  mind,  declaring  that  these  men  were  certainly  all  killed, 
and  that  the  Khedive  would  have  htm  shot  when  he  got 
back  to  Cairo.  As  soon  as  the  news  came  I  went  to  the 
rock  upon  which  the  prince  had  immortalized  himself,  and 


THE  LULL  BEFORE  THE  STOkU. 


saw  that  the  smoke  citmc  from  a  .small  wood  fire  in  the  dis* 
tance,  and  was  not  the  smoke  o(  firearms  in  battle.     IJ 
returned  immediately  with  such  information  as  would  satisfy' 
any  one  with  a  modicum  of  sense  or  experience,  that  it 
wa-t  only  the  smoke  of  a  single  fire  in  the  mountains,  not 
more  than  a  mile  in  the  distance,  and  entirely  unlike  thatj 
of  a  gun  of  any  kind.     But  it  was  lost  upon  this  unfortu-I 
nate  man.     Going  out  some  three  miles  and  night  comingrj 
on,  he  stopped  his  command  in  a  cul-dt-sae,  so  that  if  thcrej 
had  been  an  enterprising  enemy  about  he  would  have  had  a 
good  chance  to  slaughter  the  Egyptians  to  a  man.     Ratib, 
valuing  his  own  skin,  returned  to  the  fort  only  to  find  that 
Irgins  had  come  back  at  the  time  appointed,  innocent  of 
what  was  occurring,  not  having  seen  or  heard  of  an  cnemyi 
that  day.     The  nerves  of  the  commander  were  so  shattered] 
by  this  event  that  he  never  recovered,  and  what  was  stiUj 
worse,  it  put  an  end  to  our  scouting.     We  had  labored  so] 
persistently  only  to  enable  King  John  to  get  the  informa*| 
tion  he  wanted  ;  for  the  abject  conduct  of  Ratib  was  so' 
notorious  that  the  people  all  knew  it  and  carried  the  infor- 
mation to  the  king.      The  Abyssinian  conducted  his  move- 
ments  with  more   boldness   than    before,   and   his  parties 
showed  themselves  with  impunity  to  the  Egyptians,  moving! 
around  us   while   travelling   through    the   country  of   the] 
people  disaffected  to  him,  and  by  burning  their  villages,  asi 
we  could  sec  from  our  camp,  visiting  punishment  upon 
them.     These  people,  to  avoid  greater  horrors,  fled  into  the 
valley  of  Gura  in  great  numbers,  and  ^vc  minute  accounts 
of  the  movements  of  the  king  and  his  intentions.      Taking 
this  route  was  not  only  strategic,  but  it  had  the  effect  of 
striking  tenor  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley,  who 
were  his  enemies.     As  wc  wen:  without  scouts,  and  acting 
in  accordance  with  the  Arab  fashion  of  calling  everybody 
into  the  fort  for  fear  that  somebody  might  be  hurt,  it  was 
through  these  fugitives  alone  that  we  could  get  direct  infor- 
mation of  the  whereabouts  of  the  enemy.     One  of  their 


S9« 


TBB  LULL  BEFORE   TH£  STORM. 


reports  was  that  the  king  intended  to  attack  Fort  Gura. 
Relying  upon  this  information.  Ratib  sent  a  despatch  to 
Cairo,  on  the  26th  of  February,  that  the  enemy  wa^t  ex- 
pected to  attack  his  camp.  Tlic  king  was  at  Abba  Mata 
on  the  1st  of  March,  and  on  the  same  day  his  advance  was 
heard  of  as  far  as  Tzazc.  The  course  of  the  enemy  could 
be  traced  by  burning  villages,  which  corroborated  the  state- 
mcnts  of  the  flying  people.  The  scenes  in  and  around  our 
camp  were  sources  of  merriment  to  those  living  in  the 
valley,  it  being  currently  reported  among  them  that  the 
king  had  sent  word  to  the  pacha  of  his  being  aware  that 
he  had  only  old  women  under  his  command  who  were 
afraid  to  come  out  of  their  fort  and  fight  a  battle ;  that 
they  intended  to  stick  within  it  ;  but  that,  when  he  Was 
ready,  it  wa-t  his  purpose  to  come  to  Fort  Gura  and  there 
pen  him  up  and  cat  him  at  his  leisure.  The  alarm  of  war, 
so  often  sounded,  was  exemplified  at  the  fort  again.  I  had 
just  entered  my  tent  at  a  late  hour  in  the  night  when,  hear- 
ing a  shot  fired,  soon  followed  by  a  fusillade  from  nearly 
the  entire  command,  1  hastened  toward  the  line  to  know  the 
cause  of  the  trouble.  In  the  mean  time  there  was  a  tumult 
within  the  camp  which  added  to  tlic  general  excitement ; 
the  tethered  animals  in  great  numbers  broke  loose  and  were 
racing  over  tent-cords  amid  the  yells  and  slirieks  of  the 
Arabs,  which  with  the  firing  made  the  scene  a  Bedlam  not 
easily  described.  It  was  utterly  hopeless  to  learn  anything 
without  stopping  the  noise.  A  bugler  passing  me  in  the 
dark,  I  ordered  him  to  sound  "  cease  firing."  Quiet  being 
thus  restored,  it  was  found  that  a  soldier,  alarmed,  had  dis- 
chai^ed  his  piece  at  an  imaginary  object.  This  incident  is 
referred  to  because  of  its  bearing  upon  discipline,  and  for 
the  reason  that  we  had  several  hundred  men  scattered  along 
our  entire  front  within  range  of  our  rifles.  I  am  not  aware 
of  any  one  being  injured  by  this  wild  dtschai^e.  It  was 
another  experience  of  the  army  so  soon  to  be  tested  tn  a. 
fearful  tragedy. 


THE  LULL  BEFORE   THE  STOEM. 


397 


These  simple-minded  people,  capable  of  making  gond 
fighting  soldiers,  were  thus  by  a  scries  of  wretched  follies 
on  the  part  of  the  commanding  general  brought  to  such  a 
nervous  state  that  upon  the  least  excitement  their  alarm 
knew  no  bounds.  Katib  Pacha  and  his  commanders  were 
victims  of  the  same  state  of  mind,  and  the  confidence  of 
the  troops  in  them  was  utterly  destroyed.  Ready  to  run  at 
the  approach  of  the  enemy,  the  men,  appreciating  their 
fine  qualities  in  this  particular,  stood  on  the  qui  viw  to 
follow  their  chiefs  at  the  crack  of  a  gun.  This  is  the  cul- 
minating fact  among  those  already  detailed  in  explanation 
of  the  fatal  results  of  the  fighting,  an  account  of  which  it  is 
proposed  to  give  in  this  statement. 

The  king  from  the  outset  in  "  swinging  around  the 
circle"  had  but  a  short  distance  to  travel  from  Adua  to 
Khaya  Khor,  the  latter  place  being  in  our  rear.  From 
accurate  infonnation  there  was  no  doubt  that  he  was 
moving  in  that  direction,  and  was,  when  last  noticed,  in 
proximity  to  Khaya  Khor.  This  directly  threatened  that 
fort  and  our  communications  between  that  mountain  pass 
and  our  depot  at  Bahr  Rczza.  There  was  not  the  slightest 
difficulty  in  his  interrupting  our  communications  if  he 
pleased  to  do  so.  All  the  movements  and  facts  which  came 
to  us  went  to  show  that  King  John  did  not  intend  attack- 
ing us  at  this  time  in  our  intrenched  c.imp.  but  Ratib 
affected  to  believe  that  he  did,  even  after  cver>-  one  ceased 
to  share  the  idea  with  him  that  the  Aby«inians  would 
come  within  cannon  range.  On  the  3d  of  March  our  small 
scouting  party  gave  accurate  information,  and  news  also 
came  to  us  from  the  fugitives  already  mentioned,  leaving 
no  doubt  of  the  intention  of  the  enemy  to  enter  the  valley 
of  Gura,  In  which  our  fort  was  situated,  by  the  7th  of 
March,  Having  continually  impressed  on  the  commanding 
general  what  the  facts  within  his  knowledge  dictated  should 
be  done,  I  took  further  occasion  to  enlai^e  on  these  matters 
at  a  council  of  all  the  Egyptian  oflicers,  pachas,  and  b«>'S, 


398 


THE  LULL  BEFORE  THE  STOKU. 


3  very  large  gathering,  including  the  commanding  gcncral,.| 
Prince  Hassan,  and  his  aide-de-camp,  vtorab  Bey,  I  pre- 
sented my  opinions  in  the  following  terms,  hoping  that  ir 
there  were  any  among  them  who  dared  brave  the  command- 
ing general  (his  peculiarities  being  so  apparent)  they  would 
give  expression  to  their  assent.  I  requested  Prince  Hassan 
and  Zorab  Bey.  bis  aide,  both  accomplished  English  and 
Arabic  scholars,  to  interpret  what  I  had  to  say,  in  orde 
that  there  might  be  no  misunderstanding  of  what  was  said. ' 
I  explained  to  them  the  movements  of  King  John  up  to 
that  moment,  as  detitiled  in  the  foregoing  paragraphs,  and 
our  own  situation  no  less  succinctly,  as  already  pictured. 
My  argument  was  that  Fort  Gura  was  impregnable,  and 
that  something  ought  to  be  done  at  once  to  meet  and  coun- 
teract King  John,  and  that  to  that  end  the  defences  at 
Khaya  Khor  should  be  completed  without  delay.  It  wa5 
urged  that  a  force  of  700  or  800  men  should  be  left  in  Fort 
Gura,  with  a  complement  of  artillery,  as  this  command 
could  defy  the  enemy,  while  even  500  men  could  hold  the 
place. 

The  rest  of  the  command,  over  6000  strong,  armed  with 
Remington  rifles  and  a  hea\y  park  of  artiller>',  including 
the  Krupp  guns,  of  which  there  were  a  large  number, 
should  be  moved  at  once  to  Khaya  Khor,  six  miles  distant, 
and  there  united  with  the  command  of  Osman  Pacha,  which 
was  about  2500  strong,  who  also  had  artillei^',  in  this  man- 
ner not  only  protecting  the  rear  but  keeping  open  the  com- 
munication for  reinforcements  which  were  soon  expected. 
Further,  it  was  recommended  that  General  Field  should  be 
brought  from  Bahr  Rezta,  about  thirty-live  or  forty  miles 
distant,  where  he  was  engaged  on  duty  with  a  command  of 
about  1500  strong,  at  the  earliest  possible  moment.  Uy 
the  time  King  John  could  concentrate  in  the  valWy  we 
could  meet  him  or  not  as  wc  pleased,  from  Khaya  Khor,  a 
strong  position,  wiih  full  10.000  effective  men.  Here  we 
could  wait  and  watch  his  movements.     Our  energies  should 


TUB  LULL  BEFOJtS   THE  STOSM. 


399 


be  used  in  getting  up  troops  from  the  rear,  strengthening 
the  defences  of  Khaya  Khor.  and  improving  the  means  of 
getting  water  at  that  fort,  this  being  scarce  and  distant,  ex- 
cept in  small  quantities,  at  the  pass  proposed  to  be  forti- 
fied. It  was  also  important  to  send  more  formidable  scouts 
to  distract  the  enemy  and  get  information  of  his  movements 
and  designs.  It  wa.i  certain  that  King  John  was  near  us, 
moving  to  our  rear ;  he  was  out  of  supplies,  and  with  his 
immense  motley  crowd  of  men,  women  and  children  he  had 
to  go  great  distances  to  get  water.  From  Iiis  position  and 
necessities  he  would  be  forced  to  take  the  Amhoor  and 
Arato  trails  in  order  to  obtain  supplies.  These  trails  ran 
between  Fort  Gura  and  Khaya  Khor  and  near  the  latter. 
All  bis  energies  would  be  strained  to  enter  the  valley  of 
Gura,  where  these  trails  debouched  into  it,  and  to  force  a 
passage  across  it,  a  distance  of  only  two  miles,  and  then 
over  the  hills  to  water  and  provisions.  He  did  not  fear  an 
attack  from  Khaya  Khor  one  mile  dist.int  from  these  trails, 
or  Fort  Gura,  five  miles  distant,  all  information  concurring 
to  inform  him  that  this  command  did  not  intend  to  attack 
him.  Messengers  were  reported  as  coming  from  him  s-iy- 
ing  that  he  expected  at  his  leisure  to  hem  up  the  Egyptian 
forces  in  this  fort.  When  we  were  concentrated  at  Khaya 
Khor,  the  enemy,  on  making  the  attempt  to  cross  the 
valley,  should  be  attacked  in  flank  with  our  whole  power 
and  with  no  hesitation,  all  being  prepared  beforehand  to  go 
at  him  without  gloves.  With  our  strength,  discipline,  and 
splendid  arms,  such  a  sudden  blow  at  his  hordes,  unpre- 
pared  for  an  attack,  would  certainly  be  crowned  witli  suc- 
cess. Under  no  circumstances  should  we  divide  our  forces  ; 
that  would  be  fatal.  Nor  should  we  place  our  forces  out- 
side of  our  fortifications  or  beyond  their  protection,  and  act 
upon  the  defensive  ;  that  too  would  be  fatal.  Unless  we 
did  as  advised,  the  rocks,  hills,  and  valle)**,  densely  covered 
with  trees,  would  give  the  enemy  complete  protection  and 
all  the  advantages  over  us.     It  was  forcibly  impressed  oa 


CHAPTER  X. 
TUE  UATTLE  OF  GURA. 

Fnifher  crldence  of  Rallb*s  incompetence — Approach  ot  Kins  John  witb  his 
hardct  —  Rittib  oidcrt  Ihc  force  out «(  ihe  loti  \ata  ibe  railed— G«n«T«l 
Loring'i  Am  Imprnilon  ihai  ihe  aiovctacnl  tiat  to  coiKctitntc  •!  KhafK 
Khor — DiscDVciint;  the  mialkkr.  lie  mkc*  means  io»n:uic  (be  ac«  po(U 
tiOD— Activity  of  tbe  American  officers — Appronncc  ol  Ibc  AbjruloUa 
vanguard-  Abject  Higbt  of  the  commindlnK  gcncrul— Picfiaiiiiom  (or 
Tcceivinic  KinK  Juhn't  niuirli  Raiib  rc(uiir«  to  jilvancc  ■  tkiririith  line 
—Topography  of  the  valley  of  Gura — Unproiectcd  titualioti  of  ibe  righl 
o(  the  Egyptian  tine— Vain  aiiempis  mkclc  tohanr  liaircoglbcncd — Sit- 
nation  of  the  iwo  forcea— The  Egyptian  army  dcmoraliicd  by  Ihc-lc  coio- 
nandcr'a  euwardicc— King  Jobn'a  atnaicment  at  the  poaitioMOl  the 
Egyptian  array  —  He  turns  Ratib's  right  Sank  —  Vain  etiil<«var  al 
General  I.otin{[loorderuprcinfoicemcni»— Ralih  dclibermiely  rum  troin 
the  licld  lollowrd  by  a  lanie  portion  of  his  array — Futile  atlecnpt*  of 
Prince  Hiuua  and  the  American  officer*  to  rally  the  lug i tires— Roschid 
pMba,  coffltnandlng  the  right,  tlaln  <iblle|[a11anily  lithting— TbeietrcM- 
Inf  EgypiliM  deaetted  by  their  olSceri,  mil*  the  fort,  and  rti»h  on  the 
mnpona  of  their  foes — A  bloodr  manocre — Attempt  made  by  Lorinfj 
Pacha  to  pemiade  Ralib  to  a  nlRhi  attack  on  Ibe  enemy's  camp— Rail b'f] 
retuul— A  shining  example  o(  ignorance,  stupidity  and  cowafdln. 


Very  little  of  note  occtirrcd  on  the  5th  of  March,  the 
king  continuing  10  feel  liis  way  cautiously.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  6th  Katib  invited  me  to  go  with  him  to  Khaya 
Khor  ;  and  thinking  something  was  wrong  about  the  forti- 
fications, we  took  with  us  Colonel  Dye,  the  assistant  to  the 
chief  of  stad,  and  Colonel  Derrick,  the  chief  engineer. 
Shortly  after  our  arrival  an  invitation  was  extended  to  go 
into  a  tent  and  talk  over  the  approach  of  the  enemy.  In 
order  that  Colonels  Dye  and  Derrick  might  express  their 
opinions,  I  called  them  into  the  tent,  it  being  my  custom, 
whenever  opportunity  offered,  to  give  the  staff  an  opportu- 


II 


m 


THE  BATTLE  OF  GURA. 


403 


nity  of  expressing  their  opinions.  Upon  entering  we  found 
Ratib  and  Osman  Pachas  and  Osman  Bey,  one  of  the  col- 
onels at  Khay;i  Khor  and  under  Osman  Pacha.  It  was 
proposed  that  Ihe  junior  should  first  give  his  opinion. 
Colonel  Derrick  then  said  in  substance  that  a  sufficient 
command  should  be  left  at  Fort  Gura,  and  the  rest  of  (he 
command  brought  to  Khaya  Khor.  Colonel  Dye  was  of 
the  same  opinion,  canvassing  the  different  roads  and  the 
method  of  protecting  them.  Agreeing  with  them  in  this. 
Ratib  turned  to  Osman  Pacha  and  Osman  Bey,  the  other 
two  present,  who  did  not  understand  a  word  of  what  had 
been  said,  and  convcr<ied  a  few  minutes  in  Turkish,  not 
long  enough  to  tell  them  "'hat  had  been  said,  to  which  they 
smiled  in  response.  Ratib,  apparently  amused,  turned 
toward  us  and  said  wc  were  all  agreed.  His  whole  manner 
was  marked  by  insincerity  and  cunning.  Very  little  further 
of  any  importance  was  referred  to,  and  the  conference 
ended.  If  there  had  been  any  one  else  concerned  in  so 
serious  a  matter,  something  might  have  been  expected. 
Soon  after  reaching  Fort  Gura  (this  was  on  the  6th  of 
March)  I  again  argued  with  Ratib  on  the  subject  of  our 
movement  to  Khaya  Khor  as  one  which  ought  not  to  be 
delayed  an  instant  longer  than  necesuiry  to  get  ready  and 
march  there  ;  for  it  was  naturally  to  be  expected  that 
orders  would  be  issued  at  once  when  proposing  it.  He ' 
stared  incredulously,  as  though  he  had  not  thought  about 
It,  and  fin.iUy  said  that  he  did  not  intend  to  give  any  orders 
for  a  movement.  I  exhausted  every  argument,  but,  in 
spite  of  his  recent  assent,  persuasion  and  entreaty  were  in 
vain.  I  was  not  surprised,  and  waited  anxiously  to  see 
what  his  fear  would  dictate,  for  I  had  ceased  to  think  that 
any  other  feeling  controlled  him,  and  could  now  only  do 
the  best  possible  to  save  him  from  jeoparding  the  army  by 
any  sudden  freak.  Thus  affairs  stood  in  our  fort  when 
night  closed.  King  John  in  the  mean  time  was  concentrat- 
ing all  his  strength  in  the  immediate  direction  of  Khaya 


4<H 


TUB  BATTLE  OF  CURA. 


Xhor,  undouMcdly  with  the  intention  of  entering  the  vallt 
near  there,  and  with  a  remote   possibility  of  attacking  that 
portion.     On   the  morning  of  the  7lh,  Derrick,  our  only 
reliable  scout,  wus  in  front  of  the  enemy  at  an  early  hour, 
sending  numerous  despatches  of  his  movements  over  the 
trails  by  which  he  \v'as  expected.     Osman  Pacha,  command* 
ing  Khaya  Khor,  finally  informed  Ratib  that  the  enemy  was 
near  him.     Without  further  notice  or  preparation,  Ratib 
ordered  verbally  about  2500  men.  possibly  a  fraction  over 
this  number,  together  with  a  number  of  Krupp  guns,  to  be 
left  at  Fort  Gura,  and  with  about  50OO  men  of  all  arms  and 
a  number  of  guns  moved  out  of  the  fort.     \\1)en  marching 
with  his  soldien  it  was  his  custom  to  give  all  his  orders  in 
person,   without   the  intervention  of  a  staT  officer,  either 
native  or  foreign.     Riding  out  with  the  prince  after  the 
troops  had  been  marched  out  for  a  few  minutes,  I  was  sur. 
prised  to  Rnd  the  commiind  halted  within  a  few  yards  of 
the  fort  instead  of  marching  directly  upon  the  other  fort. ' 
Hassan,  smiling  incredulously,  said  he  thought  Ratib  ex- 
pected  the  enemy  from  some  other  direction.     While 
this  position,  evidently  uncertain  what  to  do.  I  said  to  hir 
that   delays  were  dangerous,  and  it   was  best  to  hurry  tc 
Khaya  Khor  as  the  enemy  could  not  be  more  tlwn  eight  or 
ten  miles  distant;  but   he  did  not  budge  an  inch.   'Just 
then  a  despatch  came  that  the  dust  of  the  enemy  was  seen 
on  the  Arato  and  Amhoor  roads  leading  into  the  valley, 
between  the  two  forts  and  near  Khaya  Khor.     Upon  this 
Ratib  moved  diagonally  across  the  valley  to  the  right  and  a    > 
little  in  advance  of  the  fort,  and  then  halted  i^in.     I  nonfl 
felt  that  he  had  determined  not  to  join  his  forces,  and  that 
the  best  thing  to  be  done  was  to  secure  him  in  the  position^ 
he  had  taken  and  save  hts  army.     This  position  was  on  th^f 
decline  of  a  prominent  ridge,  the  main   height  of  which 
circled  around  his  rear  some  little  distance  from  right  to, 
left.     There  w.as  a  deep  broad  gully  running  along  his  front 
and  curving  around  his  right,  between  him  and  the  htU 


THE  BA  TTlJi  OF  GUKA. 


405 


some  distance  back.  A  thick  growth  of  mimosa  covered 
tlic  entire  valley  in  front.  On  his  left  he  had  an  open  road 
without  obntfuction  to  Fort  Gura,  and  the  possession  of  the 
prominent  hill  partly  in  front  of  his  left  secured  hi«  retreat. 
Sending  his  cavalry  in  advance,  his  staH  of  all  nationalities 
was  constantly  employed,  many  acting  immediately  with 
the  troops  and  others  carr^'tng  orders  and  bringing  infomna* 
tion.  Those  actively  engaged  were  Colonel  Dye.  Colonel 
Denick,  Major  MUkln,  Drs.  Wilson  and  Johnson,  Major 
Tumhcyscn,  Captains  Irgins,  Porter,  and  Somani,  together 
with  a  number  of  Arab  officers.  Ratib  stood  on  a  promi- 
nent elevation  where  with  the  aid  of  his  gla.<s  he  could  scan 
the  valley,  of  which  he  had  as  perfect  knowledge  as  any  one 
in  the  army.  Notwithstanding  this,  I  kept  the  staff  concin> 
ually  on  the  move,  so  that  the  information  in  possession  of 
the  commander  was  as  accurate  as  it  wai  possible  to  obtain, 
now  that  the  enemy  was  upon  him.  Another  despatch 
came  to  me.  which  I  read  to  the  general,  that  the  enemy 
was  moving  upon  the  Dembcr  trail.  This  led  more  directly 
upon  Khaya  Khor  and  was  threatening  that  fort.  The 
road  was  some  distance  to  our  right,  probably  two  miles 
and  a  half  to  where  it  debouches  into  the  Gura  valley,  and 
the  enemy's  line  of  march  upon  it  was  plainly  defined  by  its 
dust.  Examining  through  his  glass  the  great  clouds  of 
dust  moving,  which  denoted  the  rapid  approach  of  the 
enemy.  Ratib  seemed,  in  his  nervous  excitement,  to  forget 
he  had  an  army,  and  wondcringly  asked  when  he  saw  this 
dust,  why  the  enemy  was  coming  that  way?  The  doubt 
was  very  soon  solved  by  the  enemy's  appearance  in  great 
numbers  on  a  ridge  diagonally  across  the  valley,  about  two 
miles  distant  from  the  command.  We  had  been  in  this 
position  a  long  time  before  the  enemy  appeared  in  com- 
plete view  on  this  height,  and  it  w^s  attcr  one  o'clock  be- 
fore all  his  movements  could  be  accurately  observed  where 
the  Amhoor  and  Arato  roads  debouched  into  the  valley. 
During  these  events  I  became  satisfied  that  the  command- 


4o6  THE  BATTLE   OF  GVRA. 

ing  general,  from  his  conversations  with  me  and  all  his 
actions,  did  not  intend  to  move  out  of  his  position  at  this 
place,  and  under  his  command  I  took  immediate  steps  to 
secure  him  In  it.  Dr.  Wilson  was  sent  to  examine  the 
extent  of  a  deep  gully  on  our  right,  which  wound  round 
toward  our  rear.  He  reported  favorably,  and  I  proposed 
to  the  general  that  we  should  go  together  and  examine  the 
gully  and  secure  his  right  and  rear  in  that  direction,  as  he 
had  determined  to  make  a  stand  here.  The  prince  accom- 
panied us  on  this  duty.  As  the  affair  was  becoming  every 
instant  more  serious,  1  deemed  it  best  to  keep  the  general 
always  within  sight,  so  that  I  could  instantly  be  with  him 
in  case  of  necessity  or  if  any  change  should  be  made.  This 
was  one  of  the  reasons  1  had  for  inviting  him  to  come  with 
me  to  the  right,  where  he  could  keep  the  enemy  in  view 
and  I  at  the  same  time  could  be  near  him  (or  any  orders. 
Instructions  had  been  given  for  the  duty  we  were  then 
engaged  in,  and  while  attending  to  details  Ratib  unfortu- 
nately crossed  the  gully  and  got  out  of  my  sight.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  that  he  had  given  an  order  for  a  movement. 
Instantly  hastening  to  the  rise  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
gully  where  he  stood,  I  gnt  there  in  time  to  hear  him  give 
directions  to  halt  the  command  when  he  sounded  the  bugle 
of  his  orderly.  I  soon  learned  that  he  had  been  advised 
and  had  determined  to  move  his  entire  command  to  a  new 
position.  When  the  movement  began  I  supposed  it  was 
his  intention  to  form  a  connection  with  the  command  at 
Khaya  Khor  by  a  rapid  movement,  which  might  possibly 
have  been  effected,  though  I  thought  it  was  dangerous  to 
undertake,  as  the  time  for  it  had  passed  ;  the  active  enemy 
was  then  actually  swarming  within  the  valley.  He  knew 
this  from  observation,  and  Drs.  Wilson  and  Johnson  and 
Captain  Irgins  had  brought  information  confirming  it. 
From  our  position  after  getting  on  the  ridge,  which  was 
better  than  anywhere  else,  it  was  still  plain  to  us  that  one 
party  of  the  enemy  had  already  moved  toward  Khaya  Khor  ; 


TUB  BA  TTL&  Of  GUXA. 


407 


his  ffloVCTncnts  going  and  coming  we  distinctly  followed, 
and  the  other  party  some  distance  toward  our  right  front. 
The  ridge  upon  which  Katib  moved  was  the  same  as  that 
we  had  occupied  ;  it  turned  a  little  more  to  the  right,  and 
gently  descended  from  left  to  right  in  a  direct  line  to  a 
point  where  it  was  somewhat  abrupt  ;  then,  curving  sliarply, 
formed  part  of  the  glen  in  the  hill.!  which  lay  between  our 
right  and  the  fort.  1  had  from  the  time  of  leaving  the  fort 
insisted  upon  his  throwing  out  skirmishers,  and  covering 
his  entire  front  and  right  flank,  and  the  advance  and  rear 
guards,  but  could  not  prevail  upon  him  to  do  it.  Now  that 
the  enemy  was  upon  him,  the  safety  of  his  army  required 
it ;  but  this  necessity  for  the  safety  of  an  army  he  could 
not  understand.  I  could  see  parties  entering  the  valley 
and  passing  along  our  front,  while  others  were  at  this  time 
moving  among  the  heavy  growth  on  our  right  and  into  the 
glen  unpetceived,  and  so  over  the  hills  toward  our  rear. 

The  army  marched  its  whole  length  in  the  movement  on 
the  ridge  before  Ratib  ordered  the  bugle  to  sound.  Then 
it  halted  at  the  abrupt  point  just  mentioned,  some  little 
distance  before  the  hill  turned  toward  the  glen.  Finding 
that  his  right  was  probably  one  mile  distant  from  Khaya 
Khor,  I  made  inquiry  of  Ratib  whether  he  was  in  commu- 
nication with  that  fort,  and  said  to  him  that  in  a  short  time 
the  enemy  would  fill  the  valley  and  get  between  him  and 
his  force  there  ;  that  unless  he  effected  a  junction  with  the 
forces  there  he  would  jeopard  his  army,  as  I  had  stated  to 
him  in  the  council  of  war  several  nights  before.  I  le  had  no 
plan  of  action,  but  had  drifted  into  this  position  without  A 
skirmish,  scout,  or  picket  in  his  Iront,  even  as  Ar.abi  Pacha 
did  later,  and  there  he  awaited  his  enemy.  Fearing  the 
consequences  of  his  critical  position,  and  anxious  that  he 
should  communicate  with  Osman  Pacha  at  the  fort  looking 
down  upon  us,  it  was  propo:ied  to  effect  that ;  but  to  every 
appeal  he  seemed  insensible  ;  in  reality  he  was  stunned  by 
the  complications  which  surrounded  him.     My  proposition 


** 


THE  BATTLE  OF  CUttd. 


It  be 

re  ii« 
havaS 


was  to  secure  our  right,  ia  the  mean  time  to  communicate 
with  the  fort,  and  by  concert  of  action  bis  command  could 
then  strike  the  enemy  in  the  flank  as  be  moved  acnMS  th^^ 
valley,  while  the  troops  in  the  fort  could  attack  the  leffl 
flank  and  rear  of  the  enemy,  and  stiH  victoiy  might  be 
won.     The  better  to  understand  the  movements  propos 
ft  is  necessary  to  give  a  further  account  of  the  valley. 

The  distance  across  the  valley  where  the  enemy  were 
force  was  about  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  miles.     Khays' 
Kbor  was  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  of  the  enemy  and 
on  the  same  ridge  with  him  ;  our  right  was,  as  stated,  a 
mile  distant  from  Kh.iya  Khor.     The  valley  was  evcr>'whcre 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  the  mimosa-tree.     Some  of 
It  would  conceal  a  man  on  horseback,  and  was  cut  up  witllH 
deep  gullies  which   could  conceal  a  laige  force  in  its  ap-^ 
proach,  and  which,  tc^cther  with  the  trees,  would  enable  it 
to  pass  around  us  unobserved.     The  roads  Arato  and  Am- 
hoor,  upon  which  the  enemy  were,  ran  directly  across  the 
valley  and  into  a  sort  of  glcn  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
wide,  the  trail  ran  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  our  right, 
and  went  back  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  then  over 
the  hill-s  to  where  an  abundance  oi  water  .-ind  provision  was 
obtainable.     This  was  the  grand  object  King  John  had  in 
view.     The  ridge  we  occupied  has  been  already  described. 
The  batteries  were  in  the  most  elevated  positions.     That  in    , 
the  centre  was  much  higher  than  any  other,  and  from  thi^f 
point  Ratib,  who  remained  there,  had  a  better  vien-  than^ 
any  other  in  the  line  ;  and  from  the  height  immediately  in 
the  rear  he  could  take  in  the  whole  Reld  and  its  surround- 
ings far  better  than  anywhere  elsci     The  battery  on  th« 
right  was  the  most   important  and   Raschid    Pacha,   wh( 
commanded  the  entire  right,  had  it  protected.     Tlie  bat^ 
talion  upon  which  he  relied  was  subsequently  removed  and" 
led  around  the  hill,  according  to  him,  without  his  author-_ 
ity  ;  so  that  this  battery  was  isolated,  really  inviting 
enemy  to  creep  upon  it  under  cover  of  the  mimosa 


% 


ting  th^B 
withoutH 

■ 


TtfR  BATTtt  OF  GVRA. 


409 


I 


danger.  The  space  between  this  battery  and  the  right  was 
the  length  of  the  battalion.  It  was  ,1dvi^tcJ  to  strengthen 
this  battery  at  the  outset.  Of  thU  Kaschid  Tacha  was  par- 
ticularly warned,  so  as  to  prevent  the  enemy  turning  it,  it 
being  an  important  point  in  case  an  attack  was  made  upon 
the  enemy.  With  that  as  a  pivot  it  was  an  ca^'  matter,  in 
King  John's  movement  across  the  valley,  to  strike  him  in 
the  flank  with  the  entire  force  ;  and  the  command  at  the 
fort  seeing  our  movement  should  beyond  a  doubt  be  pre- 
cipitated upon  his  left.  Placing  his  army  where  he  did, 
there  was  no  alternative  but  to  make  the  fight  as  stated,  or 
to  be  destroyed  by  a  protected,  unseen,  and  powerful 
enemy.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  nothing  was  done.  The 
day  was  then  far  advanced,  and  King  John,  who  had  hesi- 
tated for  a  long  time,  finally  threw  a  strong  line  of  sharp- 
shooters  along  our  entire  front,  opening  a  brisk  fire,  to 
which  we  replied,  sending  at  the  same  time  cannon  shot  at 
his  force  on  the  ridge  and  those  that  were  toward  our  right. 
This  forced  the  King  to  circle  around  nearer  Khaya  Khor, 
^evidently  trying  to  make  his  way  into  the  glen  on  our 
Ight.  It  was  then  that  two  or  three  shot  from  cannon 
were  fired  from  the  height,  which  was  all  that  was  heard 
from  that  fort  during  the  day.  The  smoke  of  these  cannon 
was  seen  from  our  elevated  position.  The  enemy  were 
soon  silenced  in  our  front  by  a  ^utttained  fire  from  our 
entire  line  in  their  direction,  which  delayed  their  move- 
ment. The  Abyssinians  were  now  evidently  approaching, 
and  from  observation  finding  the  battery  on  the  right  had 
been  left  without  protection,  1  hastened  to  Raschid  Pacha 
^  and  ordered  him  at  once,  in  the  name  of  the  general,  to 
f  send  a  force  to  its  immediate  relief.  In  a  violent  rage  he 
declared  that  it  had  been  supported,  but  that  without  his 
knowledge  or  .luthority  the  command  intended  for  its  pro- 
tection h.id  been  taken  from  under  his  immediate  control, 
H  and  that  he  had  just  sent  an  officer  to  complain  of  this  in- 
H    terfcrence.     In  my  presence  another  command  was  started 


hi. 

■    Tt 
H    wc 

I 


4TO 


THE  BATTte  0P  GUKA. 


to  its  support.  Soon  afterward,  learning  from  Colonel 
Derrick  that  there  was  stilt  no  protection,  I  again  went  to 
the  right  and  saw  the  force  sent  there  returning  and  Ra^chid 
in  angry  conversation  with  the  officer  who  commanded  it— 
my  impression  wu,  hcwaa  reproaching  him  for  coming  back. 
I  considered  Raschid  the  best  commander  in  the  army,  really 
the  only  one  in  whom  confidence  could  be  placed,  and  was 
satisfied  he  was  doing  the  best  he  could.  While  here,  be- 
coming satisfied  that  this  battalion,  about  which  so  much 
has  been  said,  was  in  danger,  a  great  effort  was  made  to 
get  a  force  over  the  ridge  to  its  support,  in  which  I  did  my 
best.  We  succeeded  in  getting  it  part  of  the  way  up  the 
mountain,  when  finding  my  services  were  required  with  the 
gcncr.il,  it  was  left  to  a  staff  officer  and  Raschid.  In  the 
mean  time  the  enemy  was  thickening  in  the  valley.  It  was 
now  still  later  in  the  afternoon,  and  they  were  bolder  in 
their  movements. 

The  scene  around  our  small  force  was  a  curious  and  inter- 
esting spectacle.  In  full  view  were  the  frowning  bulwarks 
of  Khaya  Khor,  and  the  poltroon  Osman,  sVulking  behind 
them  with  2500  of  the  best  soldiers  of  the  expedition, 
placidly  looking  duwn  upon  us  in  perfect  safety,  without 
extending  aid  when  the  enemy  was  within  short  range  of 
his  bristling  cannon,  and  within  that  of  the  Remington 
rifle  ;  fearing,  as  he  subsequently  confessed  in  an  incautious 
moment,  to  fire  upon  King  John,  lest  it  might  make  the 
sable  monarch  angry  ami  draw  upon  his  devoted  command 
a  fierce  and  determined  attack.  Within  a  half  mile  of 
Osman,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  of  our  position,  and  in  iu  jm- 
mediate  front,  marshalled  in  barbarian  splendor  upon  an 
elevated  ridge,  were  the  serried  hosts  of  the  foe,  full  50,000 
strong,  their  banners  and  shields  glittering  in  the  declining 
sun,  waiting  the  orders  of  their  king,  the  ablest  and  most 
renowned  African  warrior  of  modern  times,  to  move  en 
masse  across  the  valle)'.  Around  our  right  and  rear,  there 
were  also  lurking  in  great  numbers  their  bravest  and  most 


THE  BATTLE  OP  GURA. 


4" 


venturesome  warriors.  Tn  addition  to  their  great  numerical 
strengtVi,  tlie  Aby.Hsinians  were  known  to  be  a  de8{>erately 
brave  people,  who  had  defied  the  conquering  Saracen,  and 
held  their  mountain  homes  when  more  powerful  nations 
around  them  had  succumbed  to  the  scicnctar,  and  who 
more  lately  were  flushed  with  their  victory  over  the  brave 
Arrendrup,  the  unfortunate  Egyptian  commander,  which 
had  inspired  them  with  an  exaltation  only  equalled  by  the 
despondency  it  had  occasioned  the  Egyptians.  How,  it  is 
naturally  asked,  could  a  general  go  systematically  to  work 
to  place  so  small  a  force,  in  spite  of  the  strongest  protest, 
in  a  simple  defensive  position  and  await  with  folded  arms 
the  doom  so  swiftly  to  fall  upon  him  ?  The  question  can 
only  be  answered  as  it  has  been  already,  by  saying  that 
what  little  judgment  Ratib  Pacha  possessed  was  entirely 
crushed  by  abject  fear.  The  events  as  they  have  occurred 
aic  conclu5i%-e  that  the  king  did  not  contemplate  this 
battle,  though  it  is  barely  possible  he  would  have  attacked 
Khaya  Khor.  If  Rattb  h.id  not  come  up  opportunely  and 
put  himself  in  the  best  possible  position  for  King  John  to 
attack  successfully,  it  is  certain  that  the  latter  would  have 
marched  directly  across  the  valley,  between  the  two  forts — 
Fort  Gura,  five  miles  distant,  and  Khaya  Khor,  one  mile 
distant — and  taking  the  roads  already  described,  have  made 
his  way  in  hot  haste  to  water  and  provisions,  of  which, 
according  to  our  information,  he  was  sadly  in  need.  He 
never  dreamed  of  finding  Ratib  out  of  his  fort.  In  this  he 
was  deceived  ;  and  it  must  be  said  it  was  as  much  a  sur- 
prise to  those  immediately  with  the  Egyptian.  I  have 
explained  the  great  exertion  that  was  made  to  reinforce 
the  right  of  the  command,  ft  is  possible,  if  the  battery 
placed  there  had  been  thoroughly  supported  by  a  very 
strong  force,  it  would  not,  as  it  undoubtedly  dtd  in  the  end, 
have  invited  an  attack,  and  the  king  might  have  carried 
out  his  original  design.  No  man  of  sense  can  for  a  moment 
think  this  isolated  battery,  even  though  it  might  have  been 


4" 


TUB  BATTLE  OF  CUKA. 


supported  to  some  extent  by  the  small  battalion  of  400  men 
pinced  around  tlic  mountain,  and  so  far  from  it  as  not  to 
afford  immediate  support,  could  have  beaten  back  King 
John  and  bus  50,000  men,  with  ever>'  possible  advantage  on 
their  side,  as  already  detailed.  It  has  been  said  that  the 
little  battalion  fought  with  great  braverj-,  though  it  too  was 
forced  to  leave,  u  it  was  too  much  like  playing  with  forked 
lightning,  particularly  as  the  remainder  of  the  army  thought 
prudence  the  better  part  of  valor  and  took  to  their  heels. 
Having  just  left  Kaschid  Pacha  on  the  right,  engaged  as 
stated  above,  I  was  on  my  way  to  the  commanding  general 
when  Colonel  Derrick  overtook  me  with  the  statement  that 
the  enemy  u-as  turning  the  right.  I  had  for  some  time 
been  satisfied  that  numbers  were  already  in  our  rear  ;  and 
it  was  now.  when  they  discovered  the  battery  on  the  right 
isolated  and  easy  of  approach,  that  they  dashed  against  the 
exposed  flank.  Derrick,  going  with  me  to  the  command- 
ing general,  made  the  same  statement.  He  thought  him- 
self attacked,  which  was  tnic — at  this  time  the  cavalry  on 
the  right  had  taken  flight  and  were  coming  to  the  rear  mixed 
with  infantr}-.  Ratib,  who  is  of  swarthy  complexion,  upon 
hearing  it  became  ashy  pale,  whereas  before  this  he  had 
concealed  all  emotion.  Without  giving  us  time  to  say  a 
word  he  rode  rapidly  toward  the  left,  possibly,  it  was 
thought  by  us,  to  do  something  toward  saving  his  army. 
But  he  took  no  steps  to  that  end.  Frightened  out  of  the 
last  vestige  of  manhood,  he  had  deliberately  run  away,  and 
he  did  not  stop  until  he  was  out  of  all  danger.  Looking  at 
him  for  a  moment  to  .sec  what  his  intentions  were,  I  turned 
my  horse  and  gathering  a  number  of  the  siafT  rode  lapidly 
to  the  light.  It  being  but  a  short  distance,  we  were  soon  near 
the  battery,  and  were  met  by  the  retreating  infantry  and 
cavalry  mixed  in  chaotic  confusion.  There  did  not  appear 
to  be  any  immedi.-ite  cause  for  the  retreat,  as  there  was  little 
or  no  firing  in  any  direction.  There  were  at  this  time, 
according  to  the  most  reliable  information,  but  few  of  our 


THE  BA  TTLE  OF  GVRA. 


4ti 


men  killed— a  fact  which  a  subsequent  visit  with  a  number 
of  staff  officers  to  the  entire  field  of  battle  corroborated. 
It  was  then  that  wc  tiaw  regiment  after  regiment  turn  delib- 
erately in  their  tracks  and  walk  away,  Egyptian  officers 
setting  the  example.  Raschid  Pacha  and  a  few  brave  men 
alone  tried  to  stop  the  retreat.  Making  no  haste,  they 
laughed  while  firing  their  guns  in  the  air,  as  though  it  were 
fine  sport.  Soon  the  fugitives  became  an  unwieldy  mass, 
and  resisted  all  effort  to  stem  their  retreat.  The  American 
and  foreign  t^'taff  threw  themselves  in  their  front,  but  after 
extraordinary  efforts  were  forced  along  with  the  retiring 
column.  [  had  seen  retreats  before,  but  this  one  cannot  be 
described.  Becoming  general,  men  and  officers,  artillery. 
camels,  horses,  and  mules  were  out  of  all  control  and  in  the 
greatest  disorder.  Our  forces  had  no  sooner  left  the  right 
than  the  enemy  rushed  pell-mell  in  pursuit  of  the  plunder 
left.  Arms  scattered  on  the  field,  and  camels,  horses,  and 
mules  running  wild  .-ittractcd  the  Abyssiniann.  who  valued 
these  objects  more  than  they  did  the  Egyptian  soldiers. 
For  ftomc  time  their  attention  was  turned  to  gathering  the 
spoil.  They  then  left  the  scene  of  action  with  their  booty 
for  fear  that  others  might  rob  them  of  it.  King  John, 
meanwhile,  on  the  top  of  his  ridge,  witnessed  this  extraor- 
dinary movement,  and  in  his  amazement  could  not  under- 
stand what  it  meant.  Never  having  seen  many  disciplined 
troops,  those  about  him  say  that  as  soon  as  he  recovered 
from  his  astonishment,  his  first  impressions  were  that  the 
Egyptians  were  moving  to  a  position  for  the  purpose  of 
attacking  him  in  the  rear  as  he  moved  across  the  valley. 
Observing  our  army  in  the  distance  moving  slowly,  it  was 
natural  for  him  to  believe  this,  for  he  had  not  up  to  this 
time  determined  upon  a  decided  attack.  When  it  flashed 
upon  him  that  the  Egyptians  were  retreating  in  a  confused 
mass,  he  instantly  gathered  up  his  clans.  With  shouting, 
drums  beating,  and  the  shrill  shriek  of  their  wind  instru- 
ments there  was  a  general  rush  of  the  entire  Abyssinian 


4i«  r^*  *A7irzx.  iJ  r^At 

ZAiM..     Tirafct  »i'.  f-rs:  r^arrisc  Mir  r=ar  5=L  laz  ais  cd 


RiTT  '-Ttr'  tit  }^1il   Zrx  ill   b^JEK.       Tbt  -»— ■■ccr-r  zot  X  : 

%~vi  V,  cv.er  tjj-  T^rzaz  adz-csz.  i.  :±aEfe  sfr^-  R*-^' 
bffr.g  hi:^.,  if  j/ieiifci.  w  lac  rear  :'«■  lift  p=rpiise  i^  :<3 
!.-;g  'vr.t. 

I  ;->,-•;  iirr.  cr.  :-^^t  a;  tie  bead  c-f  tbe  rctrfa-j-^  jsCs: 
er-gig-jf  :r.  &  ^-dihi;  =5:jr:  to  ps^  bact  ^jc  e=tirt  a 
wit:*  th*  Sit  f>:  ris  siirt :  zzr.  bd=2  a  si^rt  =113  aad 
foot,  ht  »aj  trtinly  :-;vcrtd  faj-  his  icki.  asc  oei 
t-/erj'  ^Aii'zt'.^  c*r:gtr  o:  a  stray  shot.  Tar  cz^i:x  bt 
ir.'/T-:  povtrf'^1  thar.  tbt  bu^I.  the  little  maa  sa^  ^^{ 
back-K'ard  at  d'>--ble  quick,  vhich.  from  the  actfriiy 
di^pl^ytd,  did  not  sctni  unpjeasant  to  faiai.  There 
ju'.t  time  to  te"  him  that  he  must  come  back  with  hk 
th-.  rt-xT  rA  his  jlttt-j  :  that  the  Tr-.ob  cojld  r.cz  be  steppe 
th^t  way  ;  th*:rt  wai  no  tirr-e  to  waste,  zr.i  that  unlei 
'Ji'I  it  at  one*  his  arrr.y  ■xoSA  be  'ost.  It  was  r.ecejaar 
giv^  an  order  to  ^ome  officer  to  form  a  command  of  his  1 
in'tri  whert  he  then  was,  and  let  the  others  pass  in  the  r 
to  Fort  Gura,  as  there  was  not  a  living  soul  in  the 
capahl';  of  doing  anything.  The  prince  with  large  numi 
of  the  staff  was  far  in  the  rear,  using  everj-  exertion  to  s 
the  torrent,  but  in  vain  :  and  King  John  was  mo^ini 
that  very  moment  rapidly  up  the  valley.  The  enen 
horsemen  were  then  distinctly  seen  coming  across  the  va 
about  in  his  direction.  Ratib,  catching  a  glimpse  of 
terrible  vision  (^being  covered  by  his  men  he  had  not  see 
bcforcj,  straightened  himself  up,  looked  several  int 
■..-ll-.r,  and  scanned  the  heads  of  the  jumping  cavalr) 
!'.'  y  Ij'vhbed  up  and  down  among  the  mimosa  trees  of 


THE  BATTLE  OF  CUSA. 


4>S 


N 


I 


valley.  One  look  was  enough  ;  he  doubled  himself  up  as 
though  he  were  going  to  say  his  prayers,  Mahometan 
fashion,  in  the  belief  that  bis  last  day  was  come,  and  then 
suddenly  disappeared,  like  a  prairie  dog  into  his  hole,  rusli- 
ing  headlong  into  the  crowd  of  soldiers,  who  laughed  .at  the 
dodge  of  the  commanding  general.  Little  did  they  dream 
that  the  farce  was  soon  to  be  turned  into  one  of  ihc  most 
terrible  butcheries  ever  witnessed.  I  rode  back  with  the 
stafT  to  sec  whether  some  paclia  or  bey  could  not  be  found 
to  do  something  for  the  army,  as  those  who  commanded 
regiments  could  alone  do  it.  but  all  these  gallant  men, 
except  Raschid  Pacha  and  Osman  Bey  Nahgeeb,  one  of  his 
colonels,  had  ignominiously  fletl  and  left  their  men  to  their 
fate.  The*c  two  brave  men  were  on  foot.  There  was  not 
at  this  time  a  single  officer  to  be  seen  who  was  mounted. 
Colonel  Dye,  Dr.  Wilson,  Captain  Irgins,  and  Colonel 
Mdkin,  Captains  Porter.  Somani,  Turnheysen,  Dr.  John- 
son, Colonel  Derrick,  and  Major  Dorholtr.,  and  a  number 
of  the  Arab*  of  the  staff  were  nc-ir  here  in  danger,  as  Ihey 
had  been  through  the  day,  doing  all  they  could,  as  true 
chivalric  men  should  do  under  the  extraordinary  oidcal 
through  which  they  had  passed.  A  few  minutes  after  the 
events  I  have  related  happened,  poor  Raschtd  Pacha  suc- 
cumbed to  a  fatal  wound.  I  had  known  this  gallant  soldier 
for  many  years,  and  a  more  brave  and  honorable  officer  w.i» 
not  to  be  found  in  any  army.  It  is  an  i^reeabte  task, 
where  so  many  were  recreant  to  their  duty,  to  record  his 
death  at  the  post  of  honor. 

So  far  few  had  been  killed  on  our  side.  It  was  impossi- 
ble to  say  how  many  of  the  enemy  had  fallen,  but  no  doubt 
quite  a  number.  Riding  with  numerous  staff  ol^cers  every 
few  minutes  from  the  right  to  the  left  before  this  retreat 
had  commenced,  I  observed  no  alarm  among  the  troops  and 
was  fully  informed  of  the  number  killed  and  wounded.  It 
was  after  the  retreat  that  the  butchery  took  place.  It  was 
now,  however,  certain  from  the  facts  detailed  and  from  the 


THE  BATTLE  OF  GURA. 


417 


through  the  lungs,  and  another  desperately  wounded  and 
left  for  dead  on  the  field.  He  subsequently  came  into 
camp.  Several  of  the  Arab  staff  were  wounded  and  capt- 
ured during  the  day.  At  this  crisis  large  bodies  of  cavalry 
were  coming  up  in  our  immediate  rear,  and  on  the  right 
flank  of  the  moving  column.  Noticing  the  head  of  the 
column  bearing  away  from  the  fort,  then  about  a  mile 
distant,  Captain  frgins  was  sent  to  turn  it  in  the  right 
direction.  There  was  at  this  time  some  of  the  enemy's 
cavalry  and  a  few  Abyssinian  footmen  between  us  and  the 
fort  ;  there  was  every  reason  to  face  this  danger  rather  than 
the  greater  one,  for  there  was  a  heavy  body  of  cavalry  and 
footmen  coming  up  rapidly  toward  the  right  flank  of  the 
troops  and  in  our  immediate  front.  For  some  unaccount- 
able reason  the  column  did  not  change  its  direction,  and  to 
this  day  it  is  impossible  to  give  a  rational  explanation  of 
their  course  in  not  following  the  ordinary  instincts  of  self, 
preservation.  Though  the  fort  was  almost  within  a  stone's 
throw,  they  persisted  in  turning  from  it,  notwithstanding 
Irgins  pointed  the  right  direction  and  ordered  the  column 
to  go  there.  What  was  most  surprising  was  that  Ratib 
Pacha,  Prince  Hassan,  and  a  large  body  of  officers  parted 
from  this  very  command,  and  were  edging  toward  the  fort. 
The  commander,  who  had  taken  such  pains  to  make  cow- 
ards of  his  men,  as  he  rode  away  was  seen  waving  his  hands 
to  them  to  follow  him,  but  in  his  folly  he  had  lost  all  hold 
upon  even  his  ignorant  soldiery.  Soon  the  cavalrj'  began 
to  thicken  as  it  approached  in  our  re.ir,  and  was  showing 
itseU  on  our  right,  our  front,  and  in  the  direction  of  our 
path  to  the  fort.  With  my  escort  exposed  to  a  fire  from 
the  hill  on  our  right,  the  situation  now  became  not  only 
complicated  but  exceedingly  dangerous.  Had  Ratib  gone 
in  person  to  the  head  of  the  column  it  would  have  followed 
him  beyond  a  doubt,  but  he  was  destined  to  add  this 
chaplet  of  infamy  to  a  character  already  stained  beyond 
redemption.     Here  too  he  rode  deliberately  away  from  his 


",•■.-»■■■•-.  TV,  -.rti      i.   'fv  —-..-..ti   —•in  ir.-l   ^^z.'z  ir.i'i^ 


\::T.:'r.  '.r.'.'j  '.':.■;.  rr.-.r.  e,r.z  Car-t-rir.,"  rr.err-.  ir.  dr^ve?.  Dr. 
'.'.':'.  '.r^.  v,ho  :■;  1".'.  s.  v^rg^r.-  :r.  :hc  U-ited  StatCi  armv. 
':.v:  ti-.-.r.  li-rriT-i  :r.to  tr.i  fort,  having  been  terribly  -A-c-nded 
iri  t:.'j  ai'.-i'.T  at  tr.':  r.:ll.     This  ver>'  gallant  man  througho-t 


TUE  BATTLE  OF  CVXA. 


4"9 


the  day  had  bome  himself  with  the  utmost  daring  and  cool- 
ness, and  no  danger  had  appalled  htm.  My  orderly  was 
dying  from  his  wound.  On  arriving  at  the  fort,  and  getting 
another,  with  a  fresh  escort,  I  and  a  few  others  retraced  our 
steps  for  the  purpose  of  guiding  the  retreating  command. 
Getting  as  near  as  it  was  possible  to  approach  it,  and  in  a 
position  where  we  could  be  distinctly  seen,  almost  within 
hailing  distance,  while  exchanging  shots  with  the  Abyssin- 
ians,  who  were  between  our  party  and  the  Egyptian  column, 
we  tried  by  every  means  to  attract  the  attention  of  the 
Egyptians  and  to  get  them  to  turn  upon  the  small  body  of 
cavalry  on  their  right  flank  which  was  immediately  in  our 
front.  It  is  impossible  to  convey  the  sensation  of  horror 
which  thrilled  us  in  witnessing  this  terrible  sight.  Tlie 
Egyptians  not  only  let  themselves  be  killed  by  a  handful  of 
savages,  but  slowly  continued  to  turn  away  from  the  fort 
and  were  marching  into  the  enemy's  clutches,  which  beyon<l 
a  doubt  must  result  in  their  general  massacre. 

Having  been  joined  here  by  Osman  Bey  Nagceb,  the  last 
Egyptian  to  leave  the  troops.  I  sent  him  to  the  command, 
ing  general  to  report  the  facts  above  stated  and  to  say  to 
him  that,  having  several  thousands  of  fresh  troops  in  the 
fort,  he  could  by  marching  them  out  safely  open  the  way 
for  the  rescue  of  his  people,  and  thiit  he  would  find  no  diffi- 
culty  in  driving  back  the  small  body  of  cavalry  on  their 
right  flank.  Besides  this  message,  I  sent  word  by  a  respon- 
sible officer  that  I  should  remain  outside  until  relief  came 
or  until  the  la^t  of  his  people  were  to  be  seen.  Tliis  mes- 
sage was  repeated  to  the  bey  so  as  to  make  him  com- 
prehend the  whole  situation.  I  have  no  doubt  that  he 
repeated  it  accurately,  and  so  the  last  effort  that  could  have 
been  made  by  Ratib  he  let  pass.  It  is  well  to  observe  that 
Ratib  Pacha  could  see  everything  from  the  parapet  of  the 
fortification.  Any  man  of  cour.ige  would  without  prompt- 
ing have  done  as  advised.  Other  messages  of  the  same 
import  were  sent,  but  no  answer  ever  came,  while  the  little 
force  I  had  was  gradually  thinning  out.     The  Egyptians 


4K> 


TUB  BATTLB  OF  GURA. 


slowly  and  as  it  were  in  measured  tread  making  no  resist- 
ance, were  seen  throwing  away  their  arms,  while  others 
were  being  lanced  and  killed,  or  surrendering  in  bodies  tn 
plain  view  of  the  commanding  general  and  those  in  the  fort. 
Further  comment  is  unnecessary  upon  the  conduct  of  the 
£g>-ptian  commander,  and  if  it  were  words  must  fail  t<; 
express  the  just  indignation  that  one  experiences  for  so  in- 
famous a  creature.  Here  I  stood,  ph>-sically  and  mentally 
fatigued,  and  witnessed  this  ^clccning  spectacle,  after  one 
of  the  most  anxious  and  laborious  da>'S  in  my  long  Ufc,  and 
as  the  column  of  Egyptians  was  winding  its  slow  length 
along,  we  knew  that  it  was  creeping  into  the  cntanglinE< 
web  of  a  remorseless  and  cruel  (o«.  Still  no  effort  was 
made  from  the  fort,  no  message  was  sent,  no  aid,  no 
troops ;  the  silence  o'f  death  reigned  there ;  it  was  the 
shadow  o(  the  doom  that  awaited  the  remnant  of  the  army 
which  had  so  gayly  marclicd  out  of  Fort  Gura  in  the  morn- 
ing. 

The  enemy  in  our  front  increasing,  they  gradually  forced 
us  back  just  as  the  last  of  the  Egyptians  entered  the  hills 
and  disappeared  from  sight.  It  was  then  that  the  Abyssin- 
ians  dosed  in  upon  their  rear  with  a  ringing  shout  of 
triumph.  That  night  Ratib  sent  a  secret  order  to  Osmani 
Pacha  to  abandon  Fort  Khaya  Khor  and  come  to  Fort 
Gura,  the  safety  of  the  prince  being  his  plea.  That  gallant 
young  man  laughed,  because  he  knew  that  Ratib  was  con- 
cerned only  for  his  own  safety.  Luckily  Osman,  never . 
contemplating  any  risk  to  his  own  skin,  did  not  obey  the 
order,  and  thus  the  command  of  1500  men  under  General 
Field  got  tliere  about  one  o'clock  in  the  morning  in  safety. 
Hearing  of  the  order.  Field  thought  it  ought  to  be  ob«>'ed 
after  his  arrival,  and  urged  compliance  upon  Osman,  but 
this  fellow,  like  his  commander  a  miserable  coward,  slipped 
oR  from  Field  and  let  him  wait  in  the  saddle  all  night 
_cxpecting  the  order. 

enemy,  but  a  short  distance  across  the  hills  which 
/ened  between  us,  made  the  night  hideous  with  pro- 


THE  BA  TTLE  OF  GUKA. 


4^1 


longed  yells  and  bowU  like  the  roar  of  wild  beasts.  It 
came  from  gathered  thousands  of  savages  rejoicing;  over  the 
scenes  of  a  bloody  tn^edy.  These  struck  iidditional  terror 
into  the  heart  of  the  unfortunate  Rattb.  Hearing  the  un- 
earthly screams  and  no  Osman  coming  to  save  him,  he  was 
only  thinking  of  himself  and  the  dawn  of  to-morrow,  when 
the  enemy  would  again  pounce  upon  him.  Crouching  in  a 
comer,  with  huge  piles  of  hard  bread  in  bags  thrown 
around  him  and  over  him  for  additional  protection,  he  con- 
stantly cried  in  his  agony  of  grief  that  the  Khedive  would 
certainly  order  him  to  be  shot.  Finally  the  howling 
ceased,  and  the  Abyssinians,  drunk  with  blood  and  satiated 
with  massacre,  sunk  to  sleep  by  the  side  of  their  fires,  the 
flickering  of  which  on  the  hills  could  be  plainly  seen. 

R;ilib  becoming  more  tranquil,  he  too  about  this  time 
doubled  up,  Arab  fashion,  and  went  to  sleep  in  his  comer  of 
the  fort.  Hearing  that  Field  had  arrived  and  had  joined 
forces  with  Osman.  I  went  in  search  of  Ratib  Pacha,  and 
stumbled  upon  the  prince  in  the  dark,  whom  1  found  in 
■  great  sorrow.  1  told  him  1  was  in  search  of  Ratib.  with  the 
proposition  that  as  Osman  was  coming  to  us  with  his  com- 
mand and  that  of  Field  who  had  arrived  there,  he  should 
be  halted  outside  and  united  with  most  of  those  in  the  fort, 
and  in  the  darkness  we  could  march  noiselessly  to  the  top 
of  the  hill,  one  mile  distant,  and  under  its  crest,  a  half  mile 
from  the  sleeping  camp,  be  ready  there,  at  the  dawn  of  day, 
to  open  fire  and  make  an  easy  prey  of  the  enemy.  If  they 
heard  us  at  night,  knowing  we  had  received  reinforce- 
ments, their  uncertainty  would  induce  them  to  scatter.  In 
*ny  event  we  could  not  but  meet  with  success.  If  trouble 
ensued  we  could  fall  back  under  cover  of  our  fort.  In  this 
way  we  could  retrieve  the  losses  we  had  met  and  rescue  the 
large  numbers  of  our  soldiers  scattered  among  the  bills  and 
in  the  valley  who  would  othenvise  fall  into  their  power  on  the 
returning  day.  The  prince  thought  it  was  useless  to  try 
Ratib,  as  he  did  not  think  1  could  get  him  out  of  the  fort. 


4*' 


res  BATTLE  OP  GUttA. 


In  the  dark,  among  old  rubbish  and  bags  of  bread,  I 
[ound  Ratib  after  a  long  search.  The  magnificent  son  of. 
the  Prophet  was  fast  asleep,  and  with  no  little  difTicuIty  was ' 
awakened  from  his  deep  slumber.  Soon  explaining  my 
mission,  1  related  all  that  had  been  said  to  the  prince. 
Rousing  himself  and  reflecting  a  moment,  his  reply  was 
that  he  did  not  believe  it  possible  to  undertake  it,  and  again 
subsided  into  dignified  repose.  It  so  happened  that  the 
cautious  Osman,  po-tsibly  suspecting  that  something  of  the 
kind  might  be  done,  did  not  come  as  expected.  Thus 
ended  the  last  effort  of  the  day  to  save  the  great  numbers  , 
of  our  wounded  still  on  the  field  and  the  soldier*  scattered 
in  lai^e  numbers  in  the  valley,  in  the  gullies,  and  among 
the  mimosa-trees,  to  say  nothing  of  the  honor  of  the  com* 
mand.  I  ascertained  long  after  midnight  that  thousands  of 
camels  were  outside  the  fort  and  immediately  alongside  of 
it  which  could  be  saved  without  an  effort,  but  that  if  left 
there  without  securing  them,  they  would  certainly  stray  ofl 
or  be  taken  by  the  Abyssinians  in  the  morning.  This 
would  deprive  us  of  a  great  portion  of  our  transportation, 
which  might  at  any  moment  become  important.  After 
going  to  evcr^'body  who  was  awake,  I  finally  found  Yusef 
Ilcy  in  the  darkness,  the  officer  in  command  of  the  fort.  I 
gave  him  this  important  information,  and  impressed  upon 
him  the  fact  that  the  preservation  of  this  transportation 
might  involve  the  safety  of  the  command,  and  explained  to 
him  how  it  could  be  efTected  with  perfect  ease,  as  eight  or 
ten  men  could  do  it.  He,  too,  though  an  instructed  man, 
was  so  frightened  that  he  answered  my  propo.sition  with 
bated  breath,  as  though  the  Abyssinians  might  hear  him, 
that  he  did  not  think  It  safe  to  go  out  under  the  breast- 
works. There  was  not  the  slightest  danger.  As  expected, 
these  thousands  of  camels,  mules,  and  horses  were  all  gone 
in  the  morning,  except  a  few  within  two  hundred  yards  of 
the  fortification,  and  they  were  driven  ofT  in  plain  view  o( 
the  command  by  the  brave  enemy. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

THE  CLOSE  OF  THE  CAMPAIGN. 

R«tlb  reliwet  (o  wod  oax  tot  hln  wounded— BoldncM  o(  the  enemy  in  cou- 
lag  up  under  tbe  wall!  ol  (b«  (ot( — The  AbyniiiiiiknB  make  a  resoluie 
omlaugbi  on  ihc  fort — Their  bloodjr  repulse — Flight  of  ihc  enemy  «fw» 
teuf  \on  Thr  Egypllos*  muillate  and  partloJIy  bam  the  bodi«t  at  lh« 
dtad  AbyMloUn* — Indignation  and  horror  □(  (b«  American  fuff — King 
John  m«kea  repriaal*  bjr  niDrdcring  alt  bundted  pritooera  io  cold  blood 
— Ametican  and  Europeao  oScvrs  captured  in  the  firai  dajr'i  battle — Ex- 
ample of  ktndDest  on  the  part  of  Abyuialan  women— The  lost  ol  Egypt 
in  iiillcd,  woiindAd,  and  pritoner* — Auaull  ol  Egyptian  loldicrf  on 
friendly  AbjrisliUan*,  who  saved  the  livea  ot  their  wounded^RalJb 
Pacha  Mndf  detpatcbe*  deceiving  the  Khedive  ai  to  tbe  result*  of  the 
battle— He  It  directed  lo  conclude  peace— N ego tloiioni  with  King  John 
— He  itcrctly  Kaali  away  with  baggugc  Hnd  men  while  tbete  are  pend- 
ing— A  cowafd  In  waf  and  a  traitor  In  peace 

That  night  and  early  next  morning  a  number  of  our 
wounded  came  into  camp  and  reported  a  great  many  still  in 
the  vattcy  and  on  the  hills,  one  or  two  miles  distant.  The 
next  day,  the  8tb  of  March,  the  commanding  general  was 
pressed  to  send  his  cavalry  to  collect  his  wounded.  The 
valley  was  open,  and  it  could  manceuvrc  without  fear,  and 
being  an  old  cavalry  officer  1  proposed  to  take  command, 
with  the  entire  staff,  and  bring  them  in.  He  would  not  let 
a  soldier  go  out  of  the  fort,  and  if  he  saw  one  on  the  out- 
side  he  was  fired  upon.  He  was  told  that  officers  like 
Raschid  Pacha.  Mehcmet  AH  Pacha,  Dr.  Johnson,  Major 
Dorholtz,  and  a  great  number  of  others  might  be  still  alive 
there.  These  were  all  friends  of  mine,  and  aside  from  a 
feeling  of  humanity  and  duty  that  was  an  additional  reason, 
if  there  could  be  one,  to  induce  me  to  urge  action.  1  said 
that  it  was  inhuman  to  leave  them  out  in  the  burning  sun 


.^ 


THE  CLOSE  OF  THE  CAMFAIGX, 


4»5 


safety,  as  there  was  scarcely  a  spot  within  ihe  fort  that  m. 
shot  from  the  sharpshooter*  could  not  reach.  The  bread 
fort  was.  however,  a  happy  thing,  as  it  a£Fordcd  perfect 
shelter  to  our  wounded  officers,  completely  covering  them, 
so  that  they  could  neither  see  nor  be  seen.  It  was  not 
long  before  the  Abysstnians,  with  sabres  and  lances,  and 
shields  covered  in  barbaric  splendor  with  brass  and  silver, 
were  seen  glittering  in  the  morning  sun.  They  looked,  as 
they  stood  in  masses,  as  one  might  fancy  the  phalanx  of 
Alexander  the  Great — the  king  in  his  chrmma,  the  princes 
and  priests  in  their  kuaries,  and  the  soldier  in  his  taub,  each 
resembling  the  Roman  toga  with  red  stripes  through  its 
centre.  These  folded  around  them  or  gracefully  fluttering 
in  the  morning  breeze  gave  them  the  air  of  the  military 
civilization  of  an  ancient  day.  Confident  in  his  numbers, 
King  John  began  fonning  upon  the  hills  and  their  slopes 
immediately  in  our  front  and  in  the  gorges  that  came  out 
of  the  hills.  From  his  movements  it  was  expected  that  his 
many  thousands  would  be  at  once  pushed  upon  the  fort  in 
the  attempt  to  end  the  matter  in  a  single  assault.  It  was 
an  imposing  sight,  one  of  the  most  curious  and  striking 
that  could  be  witnessed  :  I  certainly  never  was  more  inter- 
ested in  a  picture.  The  Eg>'ptians  knew  that  Ihey  had  no 
quarter  to  expect,  in  what  the>-  believed  to  be  a  deadly 
fight  soon  to  begin.  In  this  feeling  of  the  command  lay 
the  hope  of  successful  defence.  Knowing  the  strength  of 
the  fort,  and  having  a  large  number  of  newly  educated 
young  oflicers,  there  was  confidence  that  it  could  resist 
attack  if  the  men  stood  faithfully  to  their  work,  armed  as 
they  were  with  the  Remington  breech-loaders  and  with 
Krupp  steel  guns  glittering  on  the  works.  Osman  Bey 
Nageeb,  the  bravest  Egyptian  in  the  army,  was  in  com- 
mand of  the  fort.  With  the  entire  staff  I  stood  at  the 
point  of  danger  until  the  last  gun  was  fired.  The  long 
began  by  throwing  around  the  fort  a  line  of  skirmishers 
who,  covered  by  the  mimosa-trees  and  shrubbery,  poured 


THE  CLOSE  OF  TBS  CAHPAlCtf. 


««7 


tance,  running  as  though  they  had  abandoned  the  iight,  a 
sortie  was  made  from  the  fort,  the  Krupp  guns  still  con- 
tinuing to  pour  well-directed  shots  into  the  enemy  on  the 
slopes  of  the  hills,  and  thege  too  showed  signs  of  weaken- 
ing. The  scattered  throngs  in  the  valley  around  us,  seeing 
the  discomfiture  of  their  assaulting  party,  fled  precipitately  ; 
those  on  the  hills  catching  the  excitement,  music  and 
shouting  ceased,  and  King  John  and  his  army  took  to  their 
heels.  It  was  not  many  minutes  before  the  great  numbers 
of  those  who  were  hidden  among  the  mimosa-trees,  bushes, 
and  gullies  waiting  to  plunder  the  fort,  catching  the  inspira- 
tion, were  discovered  quitting  their  places  of  concealment 
and  flying  wildly  from  the  valley.  There  was  scarcely  a 
spot  but  the  supple  and  fleet  Abyssinian  could  be  seen 
running  out  of  the  range  of  our  shot,  his  pace  accelerated 
by  a  constant  fire  till  the  speed  was  something  marvellous. 

The  defence  of  the  fort  was  very  determined,  and  con- 
vinced me  that  these  people  would  fight  well  behind  breast- 
works. It  was  this  that  induced  the  belief  that  Arabt 
Pacha  would  have  made  a  stouter  defence  at  Tel-el-Kebir 
in  the  late  war.  The  enemy  left  a  number  of  killed  and 
wounded  on  the  Reld  near  the  fort.  As  soon  as  the  Abys* 
sinians  had  disappeared  from  the  hills  the  Egyptians  (Sou- 
danese), officers  and  men,  now  that  all  danger  was  past, 
rushed  out  of  the  fort,  and  at  once  showed  their  prowess  by 
killing  the  wounded  of  the  brave  Abyssinians,  mutilating 
the  dead,  cutting  off  their  hands  and  feet  and  scattering 
them  about. 

To  m-ikc  the  scene  more  horrible,  they  threw  the  dead 
bodies  upon  dry  brush  near  by  and  set  fire  to  it ;  others 
had  straw  placed  upon  their  faces  and  fired.  The  fire  blaz- 
ing without  consuming  left  a  more  than  ghastly  sight.  As 
soon  as  this  came  to  my  knowledge  I  hastened  to  Ratib 
Pacha  and  urged  him  to  stop  such  devilish  work ;  but  I 
found  him  unequal  to  the  occasion.  The  prince,  who  was 
near,  hearing  my  conversation  with  Ratib,  for  the  facts  just 


THB  ClOSS  OF  rU£  CAMPAICH. 


499 


wounded  and  dead  by  the  Egyptians,  who  might  have  held 
them  as  hostages,  would  not  have  continued  it  as  the>'  did 
on  the  10th  of  March.  Unfortunately  Mahometans  when 
roused  take  no  counacl  other  than  that  of  their  brutal  in- 
stincts, as  was  the  case  in  this  instance.  The  butchery  of 
the  woundvd  wus  a  terrible  illustration  of  Egyptian  igno- 
rance and  inhumanity,  and  in  this  campaign  it  wus  an  illus- 
tration also  of  an  utter  want  of  that  policy  which  would 
have  been  dictated  by  common-sense,  if  not  by  a  proper 
consideration  for  their  own  suffering  people.  It  is  true  it 
might  have  occurred  under  any  circumstances,  but  that 
docs  not  excuse  the  Egj-ptian  army  for  taking  the  dreadful 
responsibility,  when  both  policy  and  humanity  dictated  a 
different  course.  It  would  be  well  for  the  civilization  of 
the  age  if  a  veil  could  be  thrown  over  this  terrible  tragedy, 
but  truth  demands  that  those  in  authority,  who  had  the 
power  to  stay  the  savage  thirst  for  blood  and  did  not  use  it, 
should  be  held  up  in  the  light  of  history  for  its  condemna- 
tion. At  dawn  of  the  9th  of  March  1  was  on  the  parapet 
of  the  fort  watching  for  the  Egyptian  wounded,  having 
been  up  during  the  night  on  this  sacred  duty.  Many  aime 
in  during  the  darkness,  and,  aided  by  Captain  Porter  and 
others,  we  helped  them  into  the  fort  and  ministered  to 
their  wants,  giving  our  clothing  and  blankets  and  ever>-- 
thing  we  could  find  to  keep  the  cold  air  from  their  wounds, 
while  their  own  people  were  asleep  and  neglected  them. 
Many  of  their  wounds  were  in  a  mo«t  horrible  condition, 
and  hundreds  were  crying  for  food  and  water.  It  was  at 
this  early  hour  that  I  was  pleased  to  see  Dr.  Badri  Eflendi 
coming,  without  any  clothing  on  but  his  boots,  wounded, 
and  dragging  himself  slowly  along.  In  giving  an  account 
of  his  capture  and  suffering  he  said  the  enemy  had  led  him, 
wounded,  naked,  and  bound,  into  their  camp.  As  he  was 
quite  a  small  man,  no  particular  guard  was  placed  over 
him.  During  the  night  one  of  the  young  women  cast 
toward  him  pitying  glances  not  unmixed  with  playful  fond- 


THS  CtOSB  OP  TN£  CAMPAIGN. 


«« 


quently  others  straggled  tn  for  several  days  and  nights,  and, 
with  the  number  brought  in  by  Colonel  Derrick  and  Cap- 
tain li^ins,  there  were  over  \yx>  wounded  who  returned 
into  the  fort.  There  were  nearly  2000  killed  on  the  7th  of 
March,  many  along  the  line  of  march,  and  others  in  the  dry 
beds  of  the  valley  and  among  the  hilb.  This  was  after  the 
army  left  the  Reld  of  battle,  where  few  were  killed  or 
wounded.  Uctwccn  Soo  and  a  locx)  were  taken  prisoners  ; 
of  these,  nearly  800,  many  of  them  wounded,  were  mas- 
sacred on  the  loth  of  March  in  King  John's  camp.  About 
130  prisoners,  who  were  some  time  in  their  hands,  were 
delivered  to  us  before  wc  left  Abyssinia.  I  went  with 
several  staff  officers  a  few  days  after  the  occurrences  related 
and  made  a  thorough  rcconnoissancc  of  the  entire  battle- 
field,  the  line  of  march,  the  valley  and  the  hills ;  and  this 
assisted  me  in  the  estimates  given.  On  the  9th  there  were 
17  killed,  mostly  officers,  and  to  or  30  wounded.  Among 
those  of  the  staff  of  the  army  who  were  killed  in  the  two 
days'  fighting,  were  Dr.  Mchcmct  Ali  Pacha,  Nicb 
Mahomet  Bey,  and  TeUerrata,  telegraph  operator,  and  one 
orderly  of  the  chief  of  staff.  The  wounded  were  Colonel 
Dye.  Dr.  Wilson,  Dr.  Badri  ERcndi,  Major  Dorholtz,  Dr. 
Johnson,  one  Egyptian  captain,  two  Egyptian  lieutenants, 
and  the  two  orderlies  of  the  chief  of  staff.  The  next  day, 
the  loth  of  March,  the  air  became  too  tainted  for  even  the 
Abyssinians  to  remain  in  their  camp  opposite  the  fort,  and 
King  John  moved  it  still  further  back  into  the  interior.  As 
soon  as  this  was  known  I  went  at  once  to  the  commander 
and  urged  the  sending  of  the  cavalry  after  the  wounded, 
mentioning  Mchemct  Ali,  their  great  surgeon,  and  one  of 
their  most  gallant  men.  I  have  to  notice  that  a  high  Eg}'p- 
tian  official  met  my  appeal  by  saying,  "  Oh.  it  doesn't  make 
any  difference  ;  he  is  loo  old  to  live  anyhow."  Finally  the 
cavalry  started  for  the  camp  from  which  King  John  had  re- 
moved,  accompanied  by  Colonel  Derrick  and  Captain  Irgins 
of  the  staff.  On  getting  to  the  hill-top  near  the  camp  the  men 


TBE  CLOSE  OF  THE  CAMPAlClf. 


433 


stopped  to  consider  that  these  friendly  Abyssinians  were 
more  humane  toward  our  wounded  than  they  were  them- 
selves, and  dcscr\'cd  the  highest  reward  itutead  of  such 
brutal  treatment. 

General  Field,  Colonel  Lockctt,  and  Major  Dcnnison 
with  their  parties  came  into  camp  this  day  from  Khaya 
Khor,  They  had  made  strenuous  exertions  to  reach  us 
before  our  first  battle.  Distinguiithcd  on  many  battle- 
fields, they  would  have  been  of  incalculable  aid  to  us. 
Knowing  how  important  they  were,  I  had  made  great  effort 
to  get  them  up  in  time. 

A  strange  medley  of  information  came  to  my  knowledge 
a  few  days  after  the  occurrences  already  related.  It  seems 
that  Ratib  Pacha,  thinking  to  conceal  his  losses,  repre- 
'scnted  to  the  Khedive  by  letter  and  telegram  that  he  had 
gained  a  great  victory  on  the  ;'th  of  March  ;  at  least  so  he 
informed  mc.  sending  exaggerated  accounts  of  the  force  he 
had  combated  and  the  miraculous  numbers  of  the  enemy 
killed.  His  object,  cunningly  devised,  was  to  break  the 
fcrce  of  the  terrible  misfortune  which  had  befallen  his 
army,  or  possibly  to  give  the  Khedive  the  opportunity  of 
publishing  news  of  a  victory  over  the  Abyssinians.  It  was 
not  surprising  that  in  response  to  these  telegrams  an  order 
came  to  demand  of  King  John  all  arms,  cannon,  and  pris- 
oners he  might  have.  Having  no  confidence  in  any  state- 
ment he  might  make  until  this  order  was  named,  I  doubted 
that  he  could  have  had  the  effronterj-  to  send  the  unblush- 
ing statement.  Believing  it  at  Cairo,  and  tired  of  the  war, 
his  amour-propre  satisfied,  he  said,  that  the  Khedive  had  fur- 
ther ordered  him  to  make  peace  at  once  with  King  John 
upon  almost  any  terms.  This  latter  clause  did  not  make  it 
appear  to  me  that  the  Khedive  was  so  greatly  deceived 
after  all.  His  correspondence,  begun  in  secret,  was  becom- 
ing complicated,  and  he  desired  me  to  aid  him.  I  declined, 
from  that  time  thereafter,  unless  he  undeceived  the  Khedive 
and  gave  me  all  the  despatches  that  had  passed  between 


jab^ 


THE  CI.05B  OF  THE  CAMPAIGN. 


435 


The  minister  of  the  barbaric  king  had  no  sooner  entered 
the  camp  than  a  gay  and  festive  scene  began.  Splendid 
repasts  were  spread  at  the  prince'^  table,  and  all  went  as 
merrily  as  though  nothing  had  happened.  While  the  band 
discoursed  the  sweetest  music  to  beguile  the  representative 
of  royalty  into  a  happy  turn  of  mind,  costly  presents  of 
rich  sillcK.  beautifully  worked  blunkets,  and  gorgeous 
saddles  and  bridles,  with  their  rich  trappings  glittering  in 
brass  and  silver,  were  showered  on  him,  and  they  went  to 
his  heart.  Bales  of  the  same  gaudy  materia]  were  for. 
warded  to  the  king  to  cultivate  a  good  understanding  with 
his  sable  majesty.  The  consequence  of  these  unexpected 
offerings  to  the  newly  arrived  ambassador  was  that  he  be- 
came not  only  pleased,  but  thought  himscU  the  best  enter- 
tained individual  of  modern  times.  It  was  not  long,  as 
each  new  present  was  unfolded,  before  Ouaikee  and  Ratib 
got  to  embracing  each  other,  and  though  the  representative 
claimed  to  be  a  Christian,  the  two  afforded  infinite  amuse- 
ment in  their  maudlin  state  by  praying  together  Mahometan 
fashion. 

The  farce  continued  for  several  days,  when  Prince  Hassan, 
weaned  of  the  camp  and  the  barbaric  show  in  which  he 
played  his  part,  and  getting  permission  from  the  Khedive, 
took  advantage  of  the  Arabian  nights  entertainments 
going  on  to  "  secretly  fold  hiit  tent  and  silently  steal  away," 
without  the  least  sign  of  that  royalty  which  had  marked 
his  advent.  Hassan  started  ostensibly  on  a  hunt,  but  no 
sooner  was  he  out  of  .sight  than  he  made  a  straight  course 
for  Cairo,  not  checking  his  speed  day  or  night  until  he  was 
safely  on  board  his  father's  yacht  ready  to  sail  at  once  out 
of  the  harbor  of  Massowah.  The  mantle  of  the  prince  fall- 
ing gracefully  upon  Ratib,  he  at  once  assumed  all  the  airs 
of  the  royal  table  and  held  high  revel  amid  great  rejoicing. 
You  would  have  supposed,  in  witnessing  this  scene  while 
nestled  in  the  valley  of  Gum  among  the  mountains  of  Aby&> 
sinia,  that  King  John  was  about  to  abdicate,  and  the  purple. 


CHAPTER   XII. 


CONCLUSION. 


Dr.  Johotoo'i  account  ol  his  cspiivttjr  ainon^  ihe  Abyamnian* — S«Ted  from 
deaih  by  Welled  Sal Ib»c«— Death  of  Dr.  Mehcmel  Ali-S>d  com  of 
Major  Dorbnlu — Terribly  voundcd  and  brulally  Ireaied— Slam  In  a  duel 
with  Count  Turnheyien  a(<n  lelurnlng  to  Efypi— Implication  of  Pdncc 
Hassan  in  (be  matier-- Incidents  taicical  and  liaKical  before  AbymJaJa 
—Evil  Inflnencc*  which  tapped  the  miliiAry  rfiglme— Dccp-«catcd  hoa- 
tillty  of  ofDcen  and  men  to  the  Abyatinla^  war  —  JS/a/ti  fud  iinU  ttUum — 
Untonunaieelleciiof  Esy pi !an  failure  on  the  Khedive's  power  and  prea- 
lige — A  peraonal  irord  about  the  rvlations  of  General  Lorinic  wiih  the 
Kh«live  and  hit  court— Decoration i  received  for  dltlinguished  ictvlce. 

The  campaign  being  virtually  over  witli  the  change  of 
troops  from  Fort  Gura  to  Khaya  Khor,  it  was  not  long 
before  this  stronghold  was  also  abandoned.  For  the  time 
being  a  strong  force  was  placed  in  it,  and  the  army  was 
ordered  to  Massowah.  I  am  indebted  to  Dr.  T.  D.  John- 
son, now  of  Clarkesvillc,  Tennt-S-tee.  for  much  information 
concerning  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  Aby!tstnian.t  in 
their  camp  and  on  the  march.  It  will  be  recollected  that 
the  doctor  was  wounded  and  capttired  in  the  affair  of  the 
7th  of  March,  after  displaying  great  courage  in  the  dis- 
charge of  duty.  During  his  first  few  days  in  the  hands  of 
the  enemy  he  underwent  most  painful  suffering,  until  by 
good  fortune  he  came  under  the  observation  of  the  noted 
chief  Raz  Welled  Sallassee,  who  controlled  the  powerful 
provinces  of  Amhara  and  Scmicn,  and  was.  next  to  the 
king,  the  most  distinguished  man  in  the  army.  This 
prince,  the  descendant  of  the  famous  Welled  Sallassee, 
claimed  royal  lineage,  tlis  ancestors  more  than  seventy 
yeais  before  had  supreme  power  in  Abyssinia,  and  trere  even 


CONCLUStOfT. 


439 


strcn<jth  was  represented  as  nearly  60,000,  but  their  total, 
including  women  and childicn.vas over  lOO.COO.  He  slates 
th.it  un  the  morning  of  the  10th  from  four  hundred  to  five 
hundred  Egyptian  prisoners  were  shot  dead  in  the  Abys- 
sinian  camp.  Their  manner  of  killing  was  to  make  them 
run  by  striking  them  with  their  clubs,  or  pricking  them 
with  their  spears,  and  then,  amid  jeers  and  laughter,  to 
shoot  them  in  the  back  as  they  ran.  He  speaks  of  seeing 
Mchcmet  All,  the  celebrated  Eg)-ptian  surgeon,  after  he 
was  taken  prisoner  by  them,  who  upon  meeting  him  seemed 
very  much  affected,  throwing  his  arms  around  his  neck  and 
.saying  to  him  in  French,  "  Men  ami;"  but  they  were  im. 
mediately  torn  asunder,  and  he  never  saw  him  again.  This 
noted  man  was  gentle  and  kind  in  his  nature,  and  had  been 
liberally  educated  in  Europe,  where  he  had  a  high  reputa- 
tion as  a  surgeon.  It  is  .said  that  the  Abyssinians  on  the 
march  left  him  in  charge  of  another  prisoner,  one  of  the 
Soudanese  (black)  Eg>-ptian  soldiers,  to  hurry  on  with  him. 
The  doctor,  aged  and  infirm,  was  on  foot,  and  this  soldier, 
afraid  of  being  left  behind,  murdered  him.  It  is  said  that 
this  crime  was  avenged  by  executing  the  brutal  assassin. 
It  now  becomes  a  painful  duty  to  speak  of  one  most  un- 


are  nuni'rou*  ipsctou*  lulli  whirh  by  itairmyt  l«ad  to  a  bro^d  plaiform, 
and  there  wm  once  extensive  lialconiet.  but  they  arc  non  icarctly  rciogniiA- 
ble.  Tile  nindoirs  and  aotn*.  miietably  patched  lo  moke  ft  habitable  for  (he 
•eml-tHirbdiiinii,  tiive  It  a  liidcou*  and  dilapidated  look,  anii  detract  Iron 
iU  chuacter  *a  a  grand  old  rulci.  Connected  oiili  this  pajace  i<  a  smaller 
one.  the  home  of  tbe  queen.  It  is  more  Bracc(ul  .ind  ornamenul.  and  !■ 
adofned  with  Greek  crotset.  cotejccs,  and  baluatrades.  It*  arthliecluie  ia 
Kood.  and  reflect*  credit  upon  the  PurtuEuna  both  (or  their  allainme'it* and 
sallaniiy.  There  arc  m^ny  other  structure*  which  tell  the  traveller  that  ihe 
atcanccr  was  building  up  beautiful  dies  and  niaulvc  woik«,  when  the  peo- 
ple with  Mvage  lerociiy  rlihcr  forced  lliem  lioni  iheir  country  or  destroyed 
them  In  It.  There  are  other  vtruclum  toanecWd  with  this  tmmente  palace 
nhleh  htive  Interested  travellers. 

Coadar  i«  more  important  for  It*  coraisefce  and  manufacture*  than  maf 
oth<T  city  in  Abyasinla.  It  I*  also  tbc  cetlUeiico  of  Ibe  abouaa  and  bis  ^ 
aitlsRi,  the  etchekii.  of  whom  we  bavc  already  wriltco  so  fully. 


co/i^cLus/oy. 


441 


subsequently  to  the  tent  of  the  king.  I  give  the  next 
scene  in  the  tragedy  in  Dr.  Johnson's  own  words.  "  I 
found,  on  arriving  itt  the  commissionens,  all  the  prisoners, 
and  a  more  motley  crowd  was  never  seen.  Many  of  them 
were  entirely  naked,  and  a  majoiity  of  them  had  nothing 
on  but  a  ragged,  dirty  piece  of  cloth  tied  round  their  loins. 
The  appearance  of  poor  Major  Dorholtz,  a  Swiss  officer  of 
the  staff,  and  the  only  white  man  except  myself  captured, 
would  have  moved  a  heart  of  stone.  The  clothing  he  wore 
when  captured  was  all  gone  except  a  short  gray  sack  coat, 
and  that  was  filled  with  dried  blood,  with  which  tt  had 
been  saturated  from  the  wounds  he  had  received  on  the  7th 
of  March.  Me  had  an  Abyssinian  shirt  and  drawers  much 
the  worse  for  wear,  and  attached  to  his  feet  without  socks 
were  sandals.  His  feet  had  been  blistered  by  the  sun  and 
were  now  a  complete  sore.  His  chin  was  turned  one  side 
from  the  spear  wound  he  had  received,  and  he  looked  as  if 
he  had  not  eaten  anything  during  his  whole  captivity.  The 
prisoners  were  soon  marched  to  the  quarters  of  the  king, 
where  we  were  detained  for  several  hours.  Finally  the 
Peace  Commi&sionerand  one  of  the  ministers  of  King  John 
came  to  the  guard  line,  when  three  Arab  olTicefs  and  myself 
were  invited  to  enter  the  king's  tent.  They  stopped  Major 
Dorholtz  when  he  attempted  lo  follow,  because,  as  1  sup- 
posed, he  was  not  considered  presentable."  This  gentle- 
man, who  had  been  so  cruelly  treated,  it  seems  was  in 
too  horrible  a  condition  for  even  his  savage  majesty  to  gaze 
on,  though  King  John  had  revelled  in  carnage  and  massacre 
only  a  few  days  before.  Major  Dorholtz,  through  a  foul 
slander,  felt  under  the  displeasure  of  Prince  Hassan  when 
he  was  in  great  suffering  and  nigh  unto  death  in  the 
enemy's  power.  The  falsehood,  hatched  in  camp  by  some 
infamous  scoundrel,  was  that  when  a  prisoner  he  had  served 
the  single  cannon  of  the  enemy  in  the  battle  which  has  been 
described  as  happening  on  the  9th  of  March.  I  have  not 
sufficient   evidence   to    enable  me  to  name  the  luthor. 


CO^CLUS/Ot/. 


44} 


all  over  in  the  valley,  there  was  u  major  of  the  guards 
accompanyint;  and  attached  to  Ismail  Pacha  Kamtl's  regi- 
ment, then  marching  to  the  front,  who,  frightened,  it  is  said, ' 
and  only  malingering,  was  refused  a  place  on  the  sick  list  by 
the  doctor  and  remained  at  one  of  the  depots  in  the  rear. 
Upon  coming  to  the  front  he  was  reduced  to  the  rank». 
Colonel  Lockctt,  who  accompanied  the  regiment  in  which 
this  major  was  serving  on  its  march  from  the  rear,  gives  the 
most  ludicrous  account  of  their  march  In  the  front,  which^ 
shows  only  too  plainly  the  state  of  mind  of  the  soldiers 
even  as  far  back  as  Bahr  Rczia,  some  thirty  miles  in  rear  of 
all  danger.  The  commander  of  the  regiment,  a  noted  fellow 
by  the  name  of  Ismail  Pacha  Kami],  had  with  him  2000 
men.  Their  road  began  by  winding  round  a  rocky  chasm 
with  high  cliffs  on  each  side  and  thickly  wooded.  Receiv- 
ing wondrous  accounts  from  those  who  had  gone  to  the  rear, 
of  the  daring  and  numbers  of  the  enemy,  and  having  their 
fears  excited,  they  imagined  a  foe  in  every  turn  of  the  road 
as  ihcy  marched.  Keenly  on  the  alert,  shortly  after  leaving 
the  post  they  saw  a  number  of  the  large-sized  monkeys 
(Cenocffikiiius),  so  common  in  Abyssinia,  prowling  on  the 
sides  of  the  mountain  just  above  them,  and  frisking  gayly 
about.  The  monkeys  accidentally  loosening  the  rock  upon 
which  they  were  treading,  it  came  tumbling  down  the  cliff. 
The  monkeys  stood  up.  chattering  and  giinning  alongside 
the  trees  to  which  they  were  holding  on  by  one  paw. 
Attracted  by  the  falling  of  tbc  stones,  on  looking  up  aii<l 
seeing  these  strange  creatures  and  wise-looking  gray-whi*:l 
kercdold  gentlemen,  the  troops  took  them  for  Abyssinlans, 
and  thereupon  the  whole  regiment,  seized  with  «udden 
fright,  went  pell-mell,  making  tracks  to  the  rear  in  what  is 
called  in  America  a  regular  "  stampede." 

After  leaving  the  next  station  (Add!  Rasso)  a  short  dis- 
tance they  were  again  stampeded.  This  time  they  suc- 
ceeded in  forming  squares.  One  officer,  high  in  rank,  lost 
his  hat  in  getting  upon  his  knees  behind  a  horse  inside  of 


CONCLUSION. 


445 


7th  of  March  and  was  coward  enough  to  strike  the  lieu- 
tenant a  blow  which  he  knew  he  could  not  return  without 
death.  Subsequently  it  is  said  he  joined  the  magnificent 
Osman  in  telling  the  unblushing  lie  that  he  had  stain 
men  on  that  day  (7th  o(  March). 

These  two  officers,  the  major  already  mentioned  and  the 
lieutenant,  though  both  had  been  already  punished  for  any 
crime  they  had  been  charged  with,  were,  on  the  day  we  left 
Khaya  Khor,  chained  by  the  neck  to  eight  or  ten  deserters 
and  led  out  of  the  fort  and  shot  to  death  in  the  back.     I 
cannot  answer  for  the  major,  but  I  look  upon  the  killing  of 
the  lieutenant  as  a  base,  unmitigated  murder,  instigated 
and  carried  into  effect  without  just  cause  by  men  who  ought 
to  have  been  themselves  shot  for  worse  than  cowardice.     It 
would  have  been  well  if  some  of  those  could  have  been  shot 
who  by  every  act  showed  hostility  to  the  war  from  the 
commencement,  who  by  their  example  and  counsel  impaired 
the  morale  and  discipline  of  the  army,  and  who  in  a  thou-J 
sand  ways  destroyed  the  confidence  of  the  soldiers  in  theiti 
officers,  which,  reacting,  destroyed  all  confidence  in  the 
soldiers  on  the  part  of  the  officers.     If  some  of  those  who 
thwarted  the  movements  of  the  army,  being  well  known, 
had  been  dealt  with  in  the  outset  as  they  deserved,  there 
would   have  been  a  far  different  result  to  record.     The 
soldiers  were  taught  in  every  conceivable  manner  by  their 
commander  and  many  of  his  ofHcers  to  believe  that  they 
were  engaged  in  an  unnecessary  war  ;  that  Egypt  had  more 
territory  now  than  she  could  manage,  and  that  it  wa^  cruel 
to  bring  them  all  the  way  to  Abyssinia  to  be  butchered. 
It  was  instilled  into  their  minds  that  they  were  in  constant] 
danger  at  every  step  they  took  in  advance  ;  that  they  hadj 
neither  the  courage,  strength,  nor  experience  to  cope  withj 
the  enemy,  who  were  so  much  more  brave,  poweifu),  and; 
warlike  than  they. 

In  the  first  fight  their  commanding  general  and  his  hij^er 
officers  were  seen  to  run  deliberately  from  the  field  of 


COJVCLVS/OA. 


4*7 


and  to  do  justice  to  those  who  had  served  htm  in  good 
faith.  It  so  happened  that  those  whose  incapacity  did  him 
most  hamt  had  their  friends  at  court,  and  as  it  often  hsp^i 
pens  in  Maliomctan  countries,  there  was  no  more  potentf 
influence  in  propping  them  up  than  the  women  of  the 
harems,  an  influence  the  more  powerful  because  unseen., 
Wiutt  did  they  care  for  the  war  when  their  bey  or  pacha^ 
was  concerned?  It  mattered  little  to  them  whether  their 
lords  came  back  with  honor  or  not,  so  that  they  returned. 
Living  out  of  the  world,  in  perfect  seclusion  and  ignorance, 
never  reading  a  book  or  newspaper  or  conversing  with  any 
intelligent  human  being  about  subjects  of  such  small  impor-J 
lance  a»  war,  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  know  anything.l 
of  it,  even  if  it  had  been  desirable  that  they  should.  There 
was  one  respect  in  which  they  were  learned  in  a  sublime 
degree — namely,  in  all  the  secret,  subtile  windings  and  in- 
tricacies of  court  intrigues.  There  is  no  disguising  the  fact 
that  these  women  and  their  coadjutors  environed  the  Khe- 
dive and  bound  him  tightly  with  their  invisible  threads,  and 
thus  the  hated  war  question  was  kept  from  him.  It  often 
happened  that  invitations  were  ordered  by  him  in  person 
to  be  sent  to  Americans  to  assist  at  his  soirees  and  dinners, 
and  sometimes  for  important  purposes.  The  officiab 
through  whom  they  were  sent  often  failed  to  transmit  the 
notices,  trusting  that  in  the  numbers  invited  the  Khedive 
might  overlook  the  special  instances,  and  if  he  complained 
of  the  non-appearance  of  any  one,  particularly  those  invited 
upon  business,  a  convenient  lie  was  always  ready  to  serve 
the  purpose,  and  their  object  was  thus  gained  through 
delay.  The  difficulty  with  him  was  to  fix  responsibility. 
Upon  these  occ.isions  he  often  sought  those  who  were 
neglected  or  whom  he  wished  to  see  on  business,  and  ex- 
pressed regret  that  he  had  not  met  them.  I  am  the  more 
particular  in  stating  these  facts  because  it  has  been  said,  in 
criticism  of  the  Khedive,  that  he  failed  to  invite  myself  and 
others  on  the  occasion  of  a  dinner  to  General  Grant,  while 


coy CL  US/0 jf. 


44» 


in  the  name  of  the  Khedive  in  the  most  complimentary 
manner. 

In  order  that  I  might  know  all  the  facts  connected  with 
the  bestowal  of  these  decorations  by  the  Khedive,  and  cor- 
rect statements  which  have  been  made  on  the  subject,  I 
addressed  n  letter  to  General  Stone,  chief  of  staff  of  the 
army,  and  received  from  him  the  following  reply  : 

"  I  recommended  to  the  Khedive,  as  was  my  duty  as 
chief  of  staff,  the  bestowal  upon  you  of  the  decoration  of 
Grand  Oflicer  of  the  Medjidieh,  and  it  was  cheerfully  and 
in  the  most  complimentary  manner  accorded.  Upon  its 
coming  into  my  keeping,  it  was  my  great  desire  to  make  its 
presentation  as  pleasing  as  possible,  and  that  you  should 
appreciate  it  as  deserved  so  high  a  compliment. 

"  I  applied  to  the  Khedive  for  decorations  for  Colston, 
Field.  Lockett,  Derrick,  Iigins.  Wilson,  and  Johnson,  and 
all  were  given  in  the  most  complimentary  manner,  except 
in  the  case  of  Lockett,  which  was  prevented  by  the  intrigue 
of  a  foreigner.  Colonel  Dye  having  stated  that  in  case  a. 
decoration  should  be  ofTcrcd  without  promotion,  he  would 
refuse  it,  I  made  no  official  application  for  a  decoration 
for  him.  because  it  would  have  been  an  intended  insult  to 
the  Khedive  had  the  decoration  been  tendered  and  refused. 
It  wa«.  of  course,  my  duty  to  prevent  such  an  occurrence. 
I  thought  that  Dye  by  his  scivicc  and  his  wound  was 
entitled  to  a  decoration,  but  he  having  (in  advance  and 
before  it  was  tendered)  declared  that  he  would  refuse  it,  I 
made  no  application  for  him.'" 

When  decorations  were  conferred,  it  was  expected  that 
those  honored  should  call  in  an  informal  manner  upon  the 
Khedive  and  his  Ministerof  War.  I  had  already  returned  my 
thanks,  in  writing,  to  the  Khedive.  With  another  who  had 
been  a  recipient.  I  made  this  visit.  The  Khedive  expressed 
himself  pleaded  with  the  visit ;  and  this  duty  of  simple 
etiquette  ended,   we  next  paid    our    respects  to  Prince