ACROSS PATAGONIA.
ACROSS PATAGONIA
BY
LADY FLORENCE DIXIE
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM SKETCHES BY JULIUS BEERBOHM
ENGRAVED BY WHYMPER AND PEARSON
. $ ; i
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON
rttmarg ta ?^er fftajestg tfje ueett
1880
The rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved.
Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh.
TO
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS,
ALBERT EDWARD, PRINCE OF WALES,
THIS WORK
DESCRIPTIVE OF
SIX MONTHS' WANDERINGS OVER UNEXPLORED
AND UNTRODDEN GROUND,
IS BY KIND PERMISSION RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESSES
OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
WHY PATAGONIA? GOOD-BYE THE START DIRTY WEATHER
LISBON THE ISLAND OF PALMA PERNAMBUCO
Pages i- 1 1
CHAPTER II.
BAHIA RIO DE JANEIRO RIO HARBOUR THE TOWN AN
UPSET TIJUCA A TROPICAL NIGHT MORE UPSETS
SAFETY AT LAST 12-25
CHAPTER III.
BEAUTIES OF RIO MONTE VIDEO STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
TIERRA DEL FUEGO ARRIVAL AT SANDY POINT PRE-
PARATIONS FOR THE START OUR OUTFIT OUR GUIDES
26-39
CHAPTER IV.
THE START FOR CAPE NEGRO RIDING ALONG THE STRAITS
CAPE NEGRO THE FIRST NIGHT UNDER CANVAS
CONTENTS.
UNEXPECTED ARRIVALS OUR GUESTS A NOVEL PICNIC
ROUGH RIDING THERE WAS A SOUND OF REVELRY BY
NIGHT ...... Pages 40-51
CHAPTER V.
DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS THE START FOR THE PAMPAS
AN UNTOWARD ACCIDENT A DAY'S SPORT UNPLEA-
SANT EFFECTS OF THE WIND OFF CAPE GREGORIO.
52-6l
CHAPTER VI.
VISIT TO THE INDIAN CAMP A PATAGONIAN INDIAN CURI-
OSITY PHYSIQUE COSTUME WOMEN PROMINENT CHA-
RACTERISTICS AN INDIAN INCROYABLE SUPERSTITIOUS-
NESS ....... 62-73
CHAPTER VII.
THE PRAIRIE FIRE ...... 74-80
CHAPTER VIII.
UNPLEASANT VISITORS " SPEED THE PARTING GUEST " OFF
AGAIN AN OSTRICH EGG l'ARIA MISLEADS US STRIKING
OIL PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE WIND AND HAIL
A GUANACO AT LAST AN EXCITING RUN THE DEATH
HOME HUNGRY AS HUNTERS " FAT-BEHIND-THE-EYE."
81-99
CHAPTER IX.
ELASTIC LEAGUES THE LAGUNA BLANCA AN EARTHQUAKE
OSTRICH-HUNTING ..... 100-115
CONTENTS. xi
CHAPTER X.
DEPARTURE FROM LAGUNA BLANCA A WILD-CAT IBIS SOUP
A FERTILE CANADON INDIAN LAW AND EQUITY
OUR FIRST PUMA COWARDICE OF THE PUMA DISCOM-
FORTS OF A WET NIGHT A MYSTERIOUS DISH A GOOD
RUN Pages 116-127
CHAPTER XI.
A NUMEROUS GUANACO HERD A PAMPA HERMIT l'ARIA
AGAIN LOSES THE WAY CHORLITOS A NEW EMOTION
A MOON RAINBOW WEATHER WISDOM OPTIMIST AND
PESSIMIST WILD FOWL ABUNDANT . . 128-137
CHAPTER XII.
A MONOTONOUS RIDE A DREARY LANDSCAPE SHORT FUEL
RATIONS THE CORDILLERAS FEATURES OF PATAGONIAN
SCENERY HEAT AND GNATS A PUMA AGAIN "THE
RAIN IS NEVER WEARY" DAMPNESS, HUNGER, GLOOM
I'ARIA TO THE RESCUE HIS INGENUITY 138-150
CHAPTER XIII.
A SURPRISE A STRANGE SCENE CALIFATE BERRIES
GUANACO STALKING A DILEMMA MOSQUITOES A GOOD
SHOT MOSQUITOES 151-161
xii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY PASSING THE BARRIER CLEOPATRA'S
NEEDLES FOXES A GOOD RUN OUR FOREST SANCTU-
ARY ROUGHING IT A BATH A VARIED MENU
Pages 162-173
CHAPTER XV.
EXCURSIONS INTO THE MOUNTAINS MYSTERIES OF THE COR-
DILLERAS WILD HORSE TRACKS DEER MAN THE
DESTROYER ...... 174-183
CHAPTER XVI.
AN ALARM THE WILD-HORSES AN EQUINE COMBAT THE
WILD STALLION VICTORIOUS THE STRUGGLE RENEWED
RETREAT OF THE WILD HORSES . . 184-189
CHAPTER XVII.
EXCURSION TO THE CLEOPATRA NEEDLES A BOG A WIND-
ING RIVER DIFFICULT TRAVELLING A STRANGE PHE-
NOMENON A FAIRY HAUNT WILD HORSES AGAIN
THEIR AGILITY THE BLUE LAKE THE CLEOPATRA
PEAKS THE PROMISED LAND . . . 190-200
CHAPTER XVIII.
WE THINK OF RETURNING GOOD-BYE TO THE CORDILLERAS
THE LAST OF THE WILD HORSES MOSQUITOES A
STORMY NIGHT A CALAMITY THE LAST OF OUR
BISCUIT UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS 2 1-2 I 2
CONTENTS. xiii
CHAPTER XIX.
ISIDORO AN UNSAVOURY MEAL EXPENSIVE LOAVES GUANACO
SCARCE DISAPPOINTMENT NIGHT SURPRISES US
SUPPERLESS CONTINUED FASTING NO MEAT IN THE
CAMP Pages 213-223
CHAPTER XX.
THE HORSES LOST ! UNPLEASANT PROSPECTS FOUND SHORT
RATIONS A STRANGE HUNT A STERN CHASE THE
MYSTERY SOLVED THE CABEZA DEL MAR SAFELY ACROSS
A DAMP NIGHT CABO NEGRO AGAIN . 224-238
CHAPTER XXI.
CABO NEGRO HOME NEWS CIVILISATION AGAIN OUR DIS-
REPUTABLE APPEARANCE PUCHO MISSING THE COMING
OF PUCHO PUCHO'S CHARACTERISTICS . 239-251
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PUCHO Title
CROSSING THE CABEZA DEL MAR . . . Frontispiece
A GUANACO ON THE LOOK-OUT .... Page I
THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN . . . To face page 40
"COLLECTING THE 'TROPILLA' SADDLING UP" ,, 56
INDIAN CAMP ..... 64
GUANACOS ...... 96
THE LAST DOUBLE 112
THE PUMA'S DEATH-SPRING ... 146
RAVINE ENTRANCE TO THE CORDILLERAS . 162
THE " CLEOPATRA NEEDLES " . . . 166
ENCAMPMENT IN THE CORDILLERAS . 168
" THE WILD-HORSE GLEN " . . 178
" WE WERE THE FIRST WHO EVER BURST ON
... I 9 8
A GUANACO ON THE LOOK-OUT.
CHAPTER I.
WHY PATAGONIA? GOOD-BYE THE START DIRTY WEATHER
LISBON THE ISLAND OF PALMA PERNAMBUCO.
" PATAGONIA ! who would ever think of going to
such a place ?" "Why, you will be eaten up by
cannibals!" " What on earth makes you choose
such an outlandish part of the world to go to ?"
"What can be the attraction?" "Why, it is
thousands of miles away, and no one has ever
been there before, except Captain Musters, and
one or two other adventurous madmen !"
WHY PATAGONIA ?
These, and similar questions and exclamations
I heard from the lips of my friends and acquaint-
ances, when I told them of my intended trip to
Patagonia, the land of the Giants, the land of the
fabled Golden City of Manoa. What was the
attraction in going to an outlandish place so many
miles away ? The answer to the question was
contained in its own words. ( Precisely because it
was an outlandish place and so far away, I chose
it. ! Palled for the moment with civilisation and
its surroundings, I wanted to escape somewhere,
where I might be as far removed from them as
possible. Many of my readers have doubtless felt
the dissatisfaction with oneself, and everybody else,
that comes over one at times in the midst of the
pleasures of life ; when one wearies of the shallow
artificiality of modern existence ; when what was
once excitement has become so no longer, and
a longing grows up within one to taste a more
vigorous emotion than that afforded by the mono-
tonous round of society's so-called " pleasures."
Well, it was in this state of mind that I cast
round for some country which should possess the
qualities necessary to satisfy my requirements, and
finally I decided upon Patagonia as the most
suitable. Without doubt there are wild countries
more favoured by Nature in many ways. But
WHY PATAGONIA
nowhere else are you so completely alone. No-
where else is there an area of 100,000 square
miles which you may gallop over, and where,
whilst enjoying a healthy, bracing climate, you are
safe from the persecutions of fevers, friends, savage
tribes, obnoxious animals, telegrams, letters, and
every other nuisance you are elsewhere liable to \
be exposed to. To these attractions was added the
thought, always alluring to an active mind, that there
too I should be able to penetrate into vast wilds,
virgin as yet to the foot of man. Scenes of infinite
beauty and grandeur might be lying hidden in the
silent solitude of the mountains which bound the
barren plains of the Pampas, into whose mysterious
recesses no one as yet had ever ventured. And
I was to be the first to behold them ! an egotistical
pleasure, it is true; but the idea had a great charm
for me, as it has had for many others. Thus,
under the combined influence of the above con-
siderations, it was decided that Patagonia was to
be the chosen field of my new experiences.
My party consisted of Lord Queensberry and
Lord James Douglas, my two brothers, my hus-
band, and myself, and a friend, Mr. J. Beerbohm,
whose book, Wanderings in Patagonia, had just
been published when we left England. We only
took one servant with us, knowing that English
GOOD-BYE.
servants inevitably prove a nuisance and hindrance
in expeditions of the kind, when a great deal of
''roughing it" has to be gone through, as they
have an unpleasant knack of falling ill at inoppor-
tune moments.
Our outfit was soon completed, and shipped,
together with our other luggage, on board the
good ship " Britannia," which sailed from Liverpool
on the nth December 1878. We ourselves were
going overland to join her at Bordeaux, as we
thereby had a day longer in England. Then
came an unpleasant duty, taking leave of our
friends. I hate saying good-bye. On the eve of
a long journey one cannot help thinking of the
uncertainty of everything in this world. The
voice that bids you God-speed may, before you
return, perhaps be silent for ever. The face of
each friend who grasps your hand vividly recalls
some scene of pleasant memory. Now it reminds
you of some hot August day among the purple
hills of Scotland, when a good bag, before an
excellent lunch, had been followed by some more
than usually exciting sport. The Highlands had
never looked so beautiful, so merry a party had
never clambered down the moors homeward, so
successful a day had never been followed by so
jolly an evening ; and then, with a sigh, as your
GOOD-BYE.
friend leaves you, you ask yourself, " Shall I ever
climb the moors again ?" Now it is to Leicester-
shire that your memory reverts. The merry blast
of the huntsman's horn resounds, the view-halloa
rings out cheerily on the bright crisp air of a fine
hunting morning; the fox is "gone away," you have
got a good start, and your friend has too. " Come
on," he shouts, "let us see this run together!"
Side by side you fly the first fence, take your
horse in hand, and settle down to ride over the
broad grass country. How distinctly you remem-
ber that run, how easily you recall each fence you
flew together, each timber-rail you topped, and
that untempting bottom you both got so luckily
and safely over, and above all, the old farm-yard,
where the gallant fox yielded up his life. Mean-
while, with a forced smile and a common-place
remark, you part ; and together, perhaps, you may
never hear the huntsman's horn, never charge the
ox-fence, never strive to be foremost in the chase
again !
With these thoughts passing through my mind
I began to wonder why I wanted to leave England.
I remembered for the moment only the pleasant
features of the past, and remembering them, forgot
the feelings and circumstances which had prompted
me to embark on my present enterprise. The
THE START.
stern sex will possibly reprehend this exhibition of
female fickleness of purpose. May I urge in its
palliation that my weakness scarcely lasted longer
than it has taken me to write this ?
\^.th December. On a cold, rainy afternoon
we steamed down from Bordeaux in a little tender
to join the " Britannia," which was anchored off
Pauillac. We were soon alongside, and were
welcomed on board by Captain Brough, under
whose guidance we inspected, with a good deal of
interest, the fine ship which was to be our home
for some time. It would be superfluous for me to
describe the excellent internal arrangements on
board ; few of my readers, I imagine, but are
acquainted, either from experience or description,
with the sumptuous and comfortable fittings-up of
an Ocean passenger-steamer.
Soon the anchor was up the propeller was
in motion, and our nerves had hardly recovered
from the shock inflicted by the report of the gun
which fired the parting salute, ere Pauillac was
scarcely distinguishable in the mist and rain
astern, By the time dinner was over we were
altogether out of sight of land, the rain was still
falling heavily, and prognostications of dirty
weather were being indulged in by the sailors.
Giving a last look at the night, I turned into the
DIRTY WEATHER.
captain's cosy deck-house, where I found my
companions deep in the intricacies and wranglings
of a rubber at whist, in which I, too, presently
took a hand. As time went on, indications that
it was getting rather rough were not wanting, in
the swaying of the ship and the noise of the wind ;
but so comfortable were we in our little cabin,
with the curtains drawn and lamps lit, that we
were quite astonished when the captain paid us
a visit at about nine o'clock, and told us that it
was blowing a regular gale.
The words were hardly out of his mouth
when the ship heeled suddenly over under a
tremendous shock, which was followed by a
mighty rush of water along the decks. We ran
out, thinking we must have struck a rock. The
night was as black as pitch, and the roaring of
the wind, the shouts of the sailors, and the wash
of the water along the decks, heightened with
their deafening noise, the anxiety of the moment.
Fortunately the shock we had experienced had
no worse cause than an enormous sea, which had
struck the ship forward, and swept right aft,
smashing whatever opposed its destructive course,
and bending thick iron stanchions as if they had
been mere wires.
As soon as the hubbub attendant on this
LISBON.
incident had somewhat subsided, thankful that it
had been no worse, we returned to our game at
whist, which occupied us till eleven o'clock, at
which hour, "all lights out" being the order of
the ship, we turned into our cabins to sleep the
first night of many on board the " Britannia."
The next day was fine and sunny, and so the
weather continued till we reached Lisbon, three
days after leaving Bordeaux, when it grew rather
rough again. At Lisbon we remained a day, taking
in coal and fresh provisions and then once more
weighed anchor, not to drop it again till the
shores of the New World should have been
reached.
Just as it was beginning to dawn on the
morning of the second day after leaving Lisbon,
I was awakened by the speed of the vessel being
reduced to half its usual ratio, for so accustomed
does one become in a short time to the vibration
of the screw, that any change from its ordinary
force immediately disturbs one's sleep. Looking
out of my cabin-window I could see that we were
close to land, so, dressing hurriedly, I went on
deck. We seemed to be but a stone's-throw from
an island, whose bold rugged heights rose up
darkly against the pale light that shone in the
morning sky. At one point of the shore the
THE ISLAND OF PALMA.
revolving light of a beacon flashed redly at
intervals, growing fainter and fainter each time,
as day slowly broke, and a golden haze began to
flood the eastern horizon. In the darkness the
island looked like a huge bare rock, but day-
light showed it clothed in tolerably luxuriant
vegetation. The presence of man was indicated
by the little white houses, which could be dis-
tinguished nestling in crannies of its apparently
steep green slopes. This was the island of Palma,
one of the Canary group, and small though it
looked, it numbers a good many inhabitants, and
furnishes a fair contingent of emigrants to the
River Plate, where " Canarios," as they are called,
are favourably looked upon, being a skilful, in-
dustrious race.
The days slipped quickly by, and soon, as we
neared the equator, it began to grow intensely
hot. Christmas Day spent in the tropics did not
rightly appear as such, though we kept it in the
orthodox manner, the head -steward preparing
quite a banquet, at which much merriment reigned,
and many speeches were spoken.
We arrived at Pernambuco on the 28th
December, but did not go on shore, as we were
only stopping in the port a couple of hours, and
were told, moreover, that there is nothing to be
io PERNAMBUCO.
seen when one is there. We amused ourselves
watching the arrival of some fresh Brazilian
passengers, who were going with us to Rio. The
extensiveness of their get-up might have vied
with that of Solomon " in all his glory " but tall
hats, white trousers, and frock-coats seemed
ludicrously out of place on board ship. Not less
funny was the effusiveness of their affectionate
leave-takings. At parting they clasped their
friends to their breasts, interchanging kisses in the
most pathetic manner, and evincing an absence
of mauvaise honte in the presence of us bystanders,
which was at once edifying and refreshing.
Autres pays, autres masurs.
Some boatmen came alongside, bringing baskets
of the celebrated Pernambuco white pineapples.
We bought some of this fruit, which we thought
delicious : it is the only tropical fruit which,
in my opinion, can vie with European kinds.
''Luscious tropical fruit" sounds very well, as
does " the flashing Southern Cross ; " but nearer
acquaintance with both proves very disappointing,
and dispels any of the illusions one may have
acquired respecting them, from the over-enthusi-
astic descriptions of imaginative travellers. Very
soon the captain came off shore again, with the
mails, etc. A bell was rung, the fruit -vendors
PERNAMBUCO. n
were bundled over the side of the ship, chattering
and vociferating, last kisses were interchanged
by the Brazilian passengers and their friends, up
went the anchor, round went the screw, bang !
went our parting salute, and, thank God, we are
off again, with a slight breeze stealing coolingly
over us, doubly grateful after the stifling heat
which oppressed us while at anchor.
12 BAHIA.
CHAPTER II.
BAHIA RIO DE JANEIRO RIO HARBOUR THE TOWN AN UPSET
TIJUCA A TROPICAL NIGHT MORE UPSETS SAFETY AT
LAST.
A DAY after leaving Pernambuco we dropped
anchor again ; this time in the magnificent
" Bahia de todos los Santos," the ample dimen-
sions of which make its name a not inapposite
one. Bahia itself is built on a high ridge of
land, which runs out into the sea, and forms a
point at the entrance of the harbour. The town
is half hidden among huge banana trees and
cocoanut palms, and seen from on board looks
picturesque enough. After breakfast our party
went on shore, accompanied by the captain, and
for an hour or so we walked about the streets
and markets of the lower town, which stands at
the base of the ridge above mentioned. We
found it as dirty and ugly as could well be,
and our sense of smell had no little violence
done to it by the disagreeable odours which
BAHIA. 13
pervaded the air. There was a great deal of
movement going on everywhere, and the streets
swarmed with black slaves, male and female,
carrying heavy loads of salt meat, sacks of rice,
and other merchandise to and from the ware-
houses which lined the quays. They all seemed
to be very happy, to judge by their incessant
chatter and laughter, and not overworked either,
I should think, for they were most of them plump
enough, the women especially being many of
them almost inconveniently fat. Finding little
to detain us in the lower town, we had ourselves
transported to the upper in an hydraulic lift,
which makes journeys up and down every five
minutes.
Then we got into a mule-tramway, which
bowled us along the narrow streets at a famous
pace. Soon getting clear of the dirty town, we
drove along a pleasant high-road, on either side
of which stood pretty little villas, shaded by
palms and banana-trees, and encircled by trim
well-kept gardens, bright with a profusion of
tropical flowers. Now and then we could catch
a glimpse of the sea too, and as we went along
we found the tram was taking us out to the
extreme point of the ridge mentioned above.
Before we reached it we had to change our
i 4 RIO DE JANEIRO.
conveyance once or twice, as occasionally we
came to a descent so steep that carriages worked
up and down by hydraulic machinery had been
established to ply in conjunction with the ordinary
mule-trams. At last we were set down close to
the seashore, near a lighthouse which stands in a
commanding position on the point. The view
which was now before us was a splendid one ; the
immense bay lay at our feet, and beyond spread
the ocean, dotted with the tiny white sails of
numberless catamarans, as the queer native fish-
ing-boats are called, which looked like white gulls
resting on its blue waters. But the heat in the
open was so overpowering that we soon had to
take refuge in a little cafe close by, where we had
some luncheon, after which we went back to
Bahia the way we had come, by no means sorry
to get on board the cool, clean ship again. Half
an hour after our arrival the anchor was weighed,
and we steamed off, en roiite for Rio de Janeiro.
New Year's Day, like Christmas Day, was
passed at sea, and we celebrated it with much
festivity. Altogether our life on board was a
most agreeable one, thanks to the kindness and
attentions of the captain and his officers, and the
days flew by with surprising rapidity. Four days
after leaving Bahia we sighted land off Rio, at an
RIO DE JANEIRO. 15
early hour of the morning. Anxious to lose
nothing of the scenery, I had risen at about four
o'clock, and certainly I had no reason to repent
of my eagerness. We had passed Cape Frio, and
were steaming along a line of coast which runs
from the cape up to the opening of the bay. Thick
mists hung over the high peaks and hills, shroud-
ing their outlines, and along the shore the surf
broke with a sullen roar against the base of the
cliffs which fell abruptly down to the sea. As yet
all was grey and indistinct. But presently the sun,
which for a long time had been struggling with
the mists, shone victoriously forth ; the fog disap-
peared as if by magic, disclosing, bathed in the
glow of sunrise, a grand scene of palm-covered
cliffs and mountains, which rose, range beyond
range, as far as the eye could reach. In front of
us lay Rio Harbour, with the huge Pad de Agucar,
or Sugar Loaf Mountain, standing like a gigantic
sentry at its entrance. In shape it is exactly like
the article of grocery from which it takes its name,
and rises abruptly, a solid mass of smooth rock,
to a height of 1270 feet. Its summit, long con-
sidered inaccessible, was reached by some English
middies a few years ago. Much to the anger and
disgust of the inhabitants of Rio, these adven-
turous youngsters planted the Union Jack on the
1 6 THE RIO HARBOUR.
highest point of the Loaf, and there it floated, no
one daring to go up to take it down, till a patriotic
breeze swept it away. Directly opposite is the
Fort Santa Cruz, which, with its 120 guns, forms
the principal defence of the harbour. Soon we
were gliding past it, and threading our way
through the numerous craft which studded the
bay, we presently dropped anchor in front of Rio,
and found ourselves at leisure to examine the
harbour, one of the finest and largest in the world.
Covering a space of sixteen miles in a north and
south direction, it gradually widens from about
three-quarters of a mile at its entrance to fifteen
miles at its head. The town stands on the
western side of the bay, at about two miles from
its entrance. It is backed by a high range of
mountains, and, as seen from the bay, nestling
amidst oceans of green, presents a most pleasing
appearance. The harbour is dotted with little
islands, and all along its shores are scattered
villages, country seats, and plantations.
As soon as the captain had got through his
duties we took our places in his boat, and started
off for the shore. On landing at a slippery, dirty,
stone causeway, we were surrounded by a crowd
of negroes, who jabbered and grinned and gesti-
culated like so many monkeys. Making our way
RIO. 17
through their midst, we passed by the market-
place, and then, threading a number of hot, dirty,
little streets, we at last got into the main street of
the town, which was rather broad, and shaded on
either side by a row of trees.
The public buildings at Rio are all distin-
guished by their peculiar ugliness. They are
mostly painted yellow, a hue which seems to
prevail everywhere here, possibly in order to
harmonise with the complexion of the inhabit-
ants. The cathedral forms no exception to the
general rule. We entered it for a moment,
thinking that we might possibly see some good
pictures from the time of the Portuguese do-
minion. But we found everything covered up
in brown holland. Nossa Senhora da Francisca,
or whatever virgin saint the church is dedi-
cated to, was evidently in curl-papers, and we
could see nothing, though we could smell a
great deal more than was agreeable. Truly I
did hot envy the saints their odour of sanc-
tity. To my mundane nostrils this same odour
smacked strongly of garlic and other abomina-
tions. We soon got tired of wandering aim-
lessly about, and feeling little desire to stop
in the town any longer, we hired a carriage
and started off for a little place called Tijuca,
c
1 8 RIO.
which lies high up among the hills behind
Rio.
Our coach was drawn by four fine mules, who
galloped along the streets at a rattling and inas-
much as the driver was evidently an unskilful
one an undesirable pace. We remonstrated with
him, but were told that it was the custom of the
country to drive at that rate. So, in deference to
the "custom of the country," on we went at full
gallop, shaving lamp-posts, twisting round sharp
corners, frightening foot-passengers, and narrowly
missing upsetting, or being upset by, other vehicles
which came in the way.
I was quite thankful when we at last got safely
clear of the town. The road lay amongst the
most beautiful scenery, and the heat, though con-
siderable, was not oppressive enough to interfere
with my enjoyment of it. After a couple of hours'
driving we halted to give the mules a rest near
a little brook, which came rippling out from the
shady mass of vegetation which lined the road.
I sat down under a banana tree, letting my eyes
wander in lazy admiration over the scene at our
feet. We had gradually got to a good height
above Rio, and through a frame of leaves and
flowers I could see the town, the blue bay
studded with tiny green islands, and beyond, the
AN UPSET. 19
rugged mountains, with a light mist hanging like
a silver veil over their purple slopes.
When the mules were sufficiently rested we
got into the carriage, and starting at a brisk trot,
it was not long before we got to the summit of a
hill, at the foot of which, in a little valley, lies
Tijuca. Before reaching it a rather stiff incline
had to be descended, and one of the wheelers,
either blown or obstinate, refused to hold the
carriage back. The driver insisted that the ani-
mal was only showing temper, and commenced to
flog it. Foreseeing the result, we all got out of
the carriage, and left the man to his own devices.
He persisted in whipping the recalcitrant mule,
and, as might have been expected, he presently
started the other animals off at full gallop, leaving
their comrade the option of following suit or falling.
It chose the latter course, and after a good deal of
slipping and sliding, went down with a tremendous
crash. The other three, taking fright, immediately
bolted, and we soon lost sight of carriage and
driver in a cloud of dust. We followed on down
the hill as fast as we could, rather anxious for the
safety of the driver. Here and there, as we
hurried along, we came across a piece of broken
harness, and presently, on turning a sharp corner,
we suddenly came upon the overturned carriage,
20 TIJUCA.
the mules struggling and kicking in a confused
heap, and the driver, unhurt but frightened, sitting
in the grass by the side of the road. Assistance
having been procured from Tijuca, which was
close at hand, the mules were freed, and the
carriage raised off the dragged mule, which we
expected to find killed. To our surprise, how-
ever, no sooner were its limbs at liberty than it
sprang up and began to crop the grass in utter
unconcern as to the numerous wounds all over its
body. A horse in such a state would have been
completely cowed, and would probably never have
been of any use again.
Leaving the driver to make the best of his
position, we walked down to the Hotel Whyte,
which lies snugly ensconced among palms and
orange-groves at Tijuca. The building, with its
clean cool rooms, shaded by verandahs, looked
particularly inviting after the establishments we
had been in at Rio, and it was pleasant too, to be
waited on by Englishmen the proprietor and his
staff being of that nationality. A little stream runs
past the hotel, feeding a basin which has been
hewn out of the rock, where visitors can refresh
themselves with a plunge, a privilege of which the
gentlemen of our party were not slow to profit.
After I had rested a little I strolled away
TIJUCA. 21
among the woods, feasting my eyes on the beauty
and novelty of the vegetation, and on the delight-
ful glimpses of scenery I occasionally stumbled
across, to attempt to describe which would only
be doing them an injustice. But that even this
paradise had its drawbacks I was not long in dis-
covering. I was about to throw myself on a soft
green bank, fringed with gold and silver ferns
and scarlet begonias, that stretched along a
sparkling rivulet, when suddenly my little terrier
darted at something that was lying on the bank,
and pursued it for a second, till my call brought
her back. The " something " was a snake of the
Cross, whose bite is almost instantaneously fatal,
and as I quickly retraced my steps to safer ground
I thanked my stars that I had been spared a
closer acquaintance with this deadly reptile.
When I got back I had a swim in the rocky basin
above mentioned, which refreshed me wonderfully.
Soon afterwards we sat down to dinner, winding
up the day by a cheery musical evening.
Before going to bed, enticed by the beauty of
the night, I strolled for an hour or more among
the woods at the back of the hotel, and gradually,
attracted by the noise of falling waters, I made
my way to a little cataract, which, coming from
some rocky heights above, dashed foaming into a
22 A TROPICAL NIGHT.
broad basin, and swirling and bubbling over a
stony bed, disappeared below in the shadows of a
lonely glen. The moon, which was now shining
brightly, cast a pale gleam over its waters, and
myriads of fireflies flashed around like showers of
sparks. Not a sound was heard save the roar of
the water, and hardly a breath of wind stirred the
giant foliage of the sleeping forests. For a long
time I sat giving myself up to the softening influ-
ences of my surroundings, and thinking, amidst
the splendour of that warm tropical night, of the
dear old country far away, now, no doubt, covered
with ice and snow.
As we had to be on board the steamer by
twelve o'clock the next morning, the carriages
were ordered for eight o'clock, by which time we
were up and had breakfasted. The captain, my
husband, brother, and myself, took our seats in a
carriage drawn by two mules, Queensberry and
Mr. B. following in a Victoria. Having said
good-bye to Mr. Whyte, we told our driver to
start, cautioning him, as he was the same Jehu
who had driven us so recklessly the day before, to
be more careful. But again, for some unaccount-
able reason, he cracked his whip and started off at
full gallop. Again the mules bolted, and like
lightning we went down a little incline which
MORE UPSETS. 23
leads from the hotel to the road. Then a sharp
turn had to be made, seeing which we held on
like grim death to the carriage, an upset being
now palpably inevitable. On we went the
carriage heeled over, balanced itself for a moment
on its two left wheels, and then, catching the
corner of a stone bridge, over it went with a crash,
burying us four luckless occupants beneath it, and
hurling the driver into the brook below. Happily
the shock had thrown the mules as well, for had
they galloped on, huddled as we were pell-mell
among the wheels of the carriage, the accident
must have ended in some disaster. As it was, we
had a most miraculous escape. The driver, who
meanwhile had picked himself, drenched and crest-
fallen, out of the brook, came in for a shower of
imprecations, which his stupidity and recklessness
had well earned for him. He made some feeble
attempts at an explanation, but no one under-
stood him, and he only aggravated the virulence
of our righteous wrath.
However, something had to be done, and
quickly, if we were to reach the steamer by twelve
o'clock. The Victoria was now the only convey-
ance left, and we could not all get into it. As
luck would have it, whilst we were debating, a
diligence was seen coming along the road, and, as
24 MORE UPSETS.
it proved, there were sufficient vacant seats to
accommodate all our party, Queensberry, Mr.
B. and myself going in the Victoria. The
driver having assured us that the mules were
perfectly quiet, and he himself appearing a
steadier sort of man than the other unfortunate
creature, we felt more at ease, and certainly at
first start all went smoothly enough. But, strange
to say, we were doomed to incur a third upset.
When we came to a steep descent, instead of
driving slowly, our coachman, for some inexplicable
reason, actually urged his animals into a gallop.
We called to him to stop, but that was already
beyond his power, the mules having again bolted,
and, to make matters still more desperate, one of
the reins broke, leaving us completely at the
mercy of accidents. The road wound down the
side of a steep hill, and each time the swaying
carriage swung round one of the sharp curves we
were in imminent danger of being dashed over
the roadside, down a precipice three hundred feet
in depth. The peril of this eventuality increased
with our momentum, and, as the lesser of two
evils, we had to choose jumping out of the car-
riage. This we did at a convenient spot, and
fortunately, though we were all severely cut and
bruised, no bones were broken. In another
SAFETY AT LAST. 25
second the coach and driver would have disap-
peared over the precipice had not one of the
mules suddenly fallen, and, acting as a drag on
the coach, enabled the driver to check the other
mule just in the nick of time.
To meet with three accidents in twenty-four
hours was rather too much of a good thing, and
vowing that we had had enough of Brazilian coach-
manship to last us all our lives, we completed the
rest of the way on foot, arriving two hours after
the appointed time, on board the old " Britannia."
We presented a very strange appearance, our
clothes torn and dust-stained, and our faces
covered with cuts and bruises ; but a bath and a
little court-plaster soon put us all right, and we
were on deck again in time to have a last look
at Rio as we steamed away.
26 BEAUTIES OF RIO.
CHAPTER III.
BEAUTIES OF RIO MONTE VIDEO STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
TIERRA DEL FUEGO ARRIVAL AT SANDY POINT PREPARA-
TIONS FOR THE START OUR OUTFIT OUR GUIDES.
I COULD not repress a pang of regret as we
steamed slowly out of Rio Harbour. There may
be scenes more impressively sublime ; there are,
without doubt, landscapes fashioned on a more
gigantic scale ; by the side of the Himalayas or
the Alps, the mountains around Rio are insignifi-
cant enough, and one need not go out of England
in search for charming and romantic scenery.
But nowhere have the rugged and the tender, the
wild and the soft, been blended into such exquisite
union as at Rio, and it is this quality of unrivalled
contrasts, that, to my mind, gives to that scenery
its charm of unsurpassed loveliness. Nowhere
else is there such audacity, such fierceness even
of outline, coupled with such multiform splendour
of colour, such fairy-like delicacy of- detail. As a
precious jewel is encrusted by the coarse rock, the
BEAUTIES OF RIO. 27
smiling bay lies encircled by frowning mountains
of colossal proportions and the most capricious
shapes. In the production of this work the most
opposite powers of nature have been laid under
contribution. The awful work of the volcano ;
the immense boulders of rock which lie piled up
to the clouds in irregular masses, have been
clothed in a brilliant web of tropical vegetation,
spun from sunshine and mist. Here nature
revels in manifold creation, life multiplies itself a
million fold, the soil bursts with exuberance of
fertility, and the profusion of vegetable and
animal life beggars description. Every tree is
clothed with a thousand luxuriant creepers, purple
and scarlet-blossomed ; they in their turn support
myriads of lichens and other verdant parasites.
The plants shoot up with marvellous rapidity, and
glitter with flowers of the rarest hues and shapes,
or bear quantities of luscious fruit, pleasant to the
eye and sweet to the taste. The air resounds
with the hum of insect-life; through the bright
green leaves of the banana skim the sparkling
humming-birds, and gorgeous butterflies of enor-
mous size float, glowing with every colour of the
rainbow on the flower-scented breezes. But over
all this beauty, over the luxuriance of vegetation,
over the softness of the tropical air, over the
28 MONTE VIDEO.
splendour of the sunshine, over the perfume of
the flowers, Pestilence has cast her fatal miasmas,
and, like the sword of Damocles, the yellow fever
hangs threateningly over the head of those who
dwell among these lovely scenes. Nature, how-
ever, is not to be blamed for this drawback to one
of her most charming creations. With better
drainage and cleanlier habits amongst its popula-
tion, there is no reason why Rio should not be a
perfectly healthy place. To exorcise the demon
who annually scourges its people, no acquaintance
with the black art is necessary. The scrubbing-
brush and Windsor soap " this only is the witch-
craft need be used." Four days after leaving
Rio we arrived at Monte Video, but as we came
from an infected port we were put into quarantine,
much to our disgust, and were of course unable
to go on shore. After we had discharged what
cargo we carried for Monte Video, we proceeded
to a little island, where we were to land the
quarantine passengers, amongst whom was my
brother Queensberry, who wanted to stop in
Monte Video for a fortnight, following us by
the next steamer. The quarantine island, which
was a bare rocky little place, did not look at all
inviting, and I certainly did not envy my brother
his three-days' stay on it. He told me afterwards
THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 29
that he had never passed such a miserable time
in all his life, the internal domestic arrangements
being most primitive.
The days after leaving Monte Video passed
swiftly enough, as it had got comparatively cool,
and we were able to have all kinds of games on
deck. After seven days at sea, early one morning
we sighted Cape Virgins, which commands the
north-eastern entrance to the Straits of Magellan.
The south-eastern point is called Cape Espiritu
Santo ; the distance between the two capes being
about twenty-two miles. Whilst we were threading
the intricate passage of the First Narrows, which
are not more than two miles broad, I scanned with
interest the land I had come so many thousand
miles to see Patagonia at last! Desolate and
dreary enough it looked, a succession of bare
plateaus, not a tree nor a shrub visible anywhere ;
a grey, shadowy country, which seemed hardly of
this world; such a landscape, in fact, as one might
expect to find on reaching some other planet.
Much as I had been astonished by the glow and
exuberance of tropical life at Rio, the impression
it had made on my mind had to yield in intensity
to the vague feelings of awe and wonder produced
by the sight of the huge barren solitudes now
before me.
3 o TIERRA DEL FUEGO.
After passing the Second Narrows, Elizabeth
Island, so named by Sir Francis Drake, came in
sight. Its shores were covered with wild -fowl
and sea-birds, chiefly shag. Flocks of these
birds kept flying round the ship, and the water
itself, through which we passed, literally teemed
with gulls and every imaginable kind of sea-fowl.
We were soon abreast of Cape Negro, about
fourteen miles from Sandy Point. Here the cha-
racter of the country suddenly changes, for Cape
Negro is the point of the last southerly spur of
the Cordilleras, which runs along the coast, join-
ing the main ridge beyond Sandy Point. All
these spurs, like the Cordilleras themselves, are
clothed with beech forests and thick underwood
of the magnolia species, a vegetation, however,
which ends as abruptly as the spurs, from the
thickly-wooded sides of which, to the completely
bare plains, there is no graduation whatever.
As we went along we passed a couple of
canoes containing Fuegians, the inhabitants of
the Tierra del Fuego, but they were too far off
to enable me to judge of their appearance, though
I should have liked to have had a good look at
them. They are reputed to be cannibals, and no
doubt justly so. I have even been told that in
winter, when other food is scarce, they kill off
ARRIVAL AT SANDY POINT. 31
their own old men and women, though of course
they prefer a white man if obtainable.
At one o'clock we cast anchor off Sandy
Point. This settlement is called officially by the
Chilians, to whom it belongs, " La Colonia de
Magellanes." It was formerly only a penal colony,
but in consequence of the great increase of traffic
through the Straits, the attention of the Chilian
Government was drawn to the importance the
place might ultimately assume, and, accordingly,
grants of land and other inducements were offered
to emigrants. But the colony up to the present
has never flourished as was expected, and during
a mutiny which took place there in 1877, many of
the houses were burned down, and a great deal of
property destroyed. As the steamer was to leave
in two hours, we began preparations for landing,
but meantime the breeze, which had sprung up
shortly after our arrival, freshened into a gale, and
the sea grew so rough that it was impossible to
lower a boat, and the lighters that had come off
shore to fetch away cargo dared not go back.
The gale lasted all day and the greater part of
the night, calming down a little towards three
o'clock in the morning. Every effort was accord-
ingly made to get us on shore, the alternative
being that we should have to go on with the
32 ARRIVAL AT SANDY POINT.
steamer to Valparaiso, the Company's regulations
not allowing more than a certain length of time
to be spent at Sandy Point. As may be imagined,
we by no means liked the idea of such a possible
consummation, and the weather was eagerly
scanned, whilst our luggage and traps were being
hurried over the sides, as a fresh increase in the
strength of the wind would have been fatal.
At last all was ready; we said good-bye to
the captain and officers, to whose kindness during
the voyage we were so much indebted for our
enjoyment of our trip on board the " Britannia"
and climbing down the gangway took our seats
in the boat which was to carry us ashore. I felt
quite sad as we rowed away, leaving behind us
the good ship which we had come to look upon
as a home, and for which I at least felt almost a
personal affection.
After a long pull, during which the contrary
wind and tide bade fair to set at nought the
efforts of the four strong sailors who rowed us
ashore, we at last came alongside the old tumble-
down wooden pier, which forms the landing-stage
at Sandy Point. We succeeded in reaching its
end without incurring any mishap, though we ran
considerable risk from the many dangers with
which it bristled, in the shape of sudden yawning
SANDY POINT. 33
holes, and treacherously shifting planks. This
pier, however, had the merit a questionable one
it is true of being in keeping with the appear-
ance and condition of the whole colony to which
it served as a warning introduction. I suppose
there possibly may be drearier-looking places
than the town of Sandy Point, but I do not think
it is probable ; and as we walked over the sand-
covered beach in front of the settlement, and
surveyed the gloomy rows of miserable wooden
huts, the silent, solitary streets, where, at that
moment, not a single living being was to be seen,
save some hungry-looking ostrich -hound, we all
agreed that the epithet of " God-forsaken hole "
was the only description that did justice to the
merits of this desolate place, nor did subsequent
and fuller acquaintance with it by any means
induce us to alter this unfavourable opinion.
Proceeding under the guidance of Mr. Duns-
muir, the English Consul, we halted about two
hundred yards from the pier, at a house which, we
were informed, was the principal shop and inn in the
place. It was not an ambitious establishment. Its
interior consisted of a ground-floor containing two
rooms, of which one served as a shop, and the other
as a sitting-room. This last apartment we secured
as a storeroom for our luggage and equipments, and
D
34 SANDY POINT.
there also we ate our meals during our sojourn in
Sandy Point. The upper portion of this magnifi-
cent dwelling was a kind of loft, in one corner
of which was a small compartment, which my
brother and Mr. B. used as a bedroom. Through
the kindness of Mr. Dunsmuir my husband and
myself were lodged very comfortably in his own
house.
Our first experience of " roughing it," in the
shape of the breakfast with which Pedro the
innkeeper supplied us, being over, we sauntered
up through the grass-grown streets of the colony
to the house of Mr. Dunsmuir, from which, as it
stands on high ground, we obtained a good view
of the Straits and the opposite shores of the Tierra
del Fuego. The " Britannia" had already weighed
anchor, and for a long time we watched her
steaming away through the Straits, till, growing
gradually smaller and smaller, she at last dis-
appeared in the haze of the distant horizon. And
now that the last link, as it were, of the chain
which bound me to old England was gone, for the
first time I began to fully realise the fact that we
were ten thousand miles away from our home and
our friends, alone amidst strange faces and wild
scenes ; and it required almost an effort to banish
the impression that the whole thing was a dream,
PREPARATIONS FOR THE START. 35
from which I was presently to awaken and find
myself back in England again.
Our anxiety to leave Sandy Point as soon as
possible hastened preparations we had to make
before starting ; but even with every wish to get
away, there was so much to be done that we
calculated we should not be ready to start for at
least four days. There were guides to be found,
good dogs to be bought, and, above all, suitable
horses to be hired or purchased. Numbers of
these latter animals were brought for our inspec-
tion, from among which we selected about fifty,
of whose merits and failings I shall have to speak
at a later occasion. We found the charges for
everything ridiculously high, and though no doubt
we were cheated on all sides, there was nothing to
be done but to accept the prices and conditions
demanded, as guides were not plentiful, and the
other necessities procurable nowhere else.
A whole day was spent in unpacking the
provisions and equipments we had brought
from England, and in putting them into canvas
bags, so as to be conveniently portable on horse-
back. For the benefit of those who may contem-
plate an expedition similar to ours, I give the
following list of the articles and provisions we
took with us. We limited ourselves, I may say
36 OUR OUTFIT.
en passant, to such things as were absolutely
indispensable, the disadvantages arising from
being burdened with unnecessary luggage on such
a trip being self-evident : Two small tents (tentes
d?abri\ 2 hatchets, i pail, i iron pot for cooking,
i frying-pan, i saucepan, biscuits, coffee, tea, sugar,
flour, oatmeal, preserved milk, and a few tins of
butter, 2 kegs of whisky.
To the above we added a sack of yerba mate,
of which herb we all grew so fond that we
ultimately used it to the complete exclusion of tea
and coffee, although at first we by no means
agreed with the enthusiastic description of its
merits given by Mr. B., at whose recommenda-
tion we had taken it.
Our personal outfit consisted, in addition to
a few changes of woollen underclothing, in a
guanaco-fur mantle, a rug or two, a sheath-knife
and revolver ; besides, of course, the guns and
rifles we had brought for sporting purposes. The
cartridges for the latter, of which we had a great
number, formed the heaviest item of weight ; but
notwithstanding the care we had used in our cal-
culations, so as not to take more provisions than
we wanted, the goodly pile which was formed
when all our luggage was heaped together was
rather alarming, and we found that twelve horses
OUR GUIDES. 37
at least would be required to carry it. Fortunately
we were able to procure three mules, who, between
them, carried more than six horses could have
done, without, moreover, suffering half as much as
the latter in condition from fatigue, or the severe
heat which we occasionally encountered.
We selected our guides from among a number
who offered their services. We chose four ; two
Frenchmen, an Argentine gaucho, and a nonde-
script creature, an inhabitant of Sandy Point, I' Aria
by name, who had accompanied Captain Musters
on his expedition. This I' Aria was a dried-up-
looking being of over sixty, but he proved a use-
ful servant, notwithstanding his age. He was a
beautiful rider; and, considering his years, wonder-
fully active and enduring. As long as we remained
in Sandy Point, however, he was of little use to us,
as he was never by any chance sober, though,
strange to say, when once we left the settlement,
he became a total abstainer, and stoutly refused,
during the whole of the trip, to take any liquor
that was offered to him. His face, the skin of
which, from long exposure to wind and weather,
had acquired the consistency of parchment, was
one mass of wrinkles, and burnt almost black by
the sun, while the watchful, cunning expression of
his twinkling bead -like eyes added to his wild
38 OUR GUIDES.
appearance, the Mephistophelian character of
which earned for him the sobriquet of " The devil's
agent for Patagonia." He had passed more than
forty years of his life on the pampa, and was,
therefore, well qualified to act as guide. Of the
others, Gregorio gave us most satisfaction, and
served us all through the trip with untiring zeal
and fidelity. He was a good-looking man, of about
forty, and added to the other accomplishments of
his craft as gaucho, a slight knowledge of English.
His ordinary occupation was that of an Indian
trader, and at one time of his career he had owned
a small schooner, with which he used to go seal-
hunting in the season. One of the Frenchmen,
O '
Francois, whose original profession had been that
of a cook, proved most useful to us in that capacity,
and played the changes on what would otherwise
have been a slightly monotonous diet of guanaco
and ostrich meat, in a marvellous manner. His
career, like Gregorio's, had been a chequered one.
After having served during the Franco-Prussian
war as a Chasseur d'Afrique, he left his country
with three companions to start some business in
South America, on the failure of which he turned
his attention to ostrich-hunting. He was a cheery,
handsome little fellow, and was possessed, more-
over, of an excellent voice, and whether at work
OUR GUIDES. 39
by the camp-fire, or riding on the march, was
always to be heard singing merrily. He owned
two very good ostrich-dogs ; one, a handsome
Scotch deer-hound called " Leona," the other a
black wiry dog called " Loca," a cross between
an African greyhound and an English lurcher.
Gregorio had only one dog, but it was the best
of the lot, often managing to run down an ostrich
singly, a feat which requires immense stamina and
gameness, and which none of the other dogs
were able to perform.
As to Guillaume I need say nothing, except
that all our party disliked him very much.
. a After four days' hard work our preparations
for departure were nearly completed, though a
little yet remained to be done. Anxious, how-
ever, to get out of Sandy Point, we resolved to
start off with the greater part of the packs and
horses, and to await the coming of the remainder
in the beech- wood at Cabo Negro, some fifteen
miles away from the colony.
40 THE START FOR CAPE NEGRO.
CHAPTER IV.
THE START FOR CAPE NEGRO RIDING ALONG THE STRAITS-
CAPE NEGRO THE FIRST NIGHT UNDER CANVAS UNEX-
PECTED ARRIVALS OUR GUESTS A NOVEL PICNIC ROUGH-
RIDING THERE WAS A SOUND OF REVELRY BY NIGHT.
EARLY in the morning the horses were driven up
and saddled, some trouble being experienced with
the pack-mules, who were slightly restive, taking
rather unkindly to their loads at first.
As our guides were busy hunting up the
requisite number of horses, and finishing their
preparations for the journey, we took another man
with us for the time that we should have to remain
at Cabo Negro, as well as a little boy, a son of
Gregorio's, to help to drive the horses along.
After a hurried breakfast we got into the saddle ;
the pack-horses were driven together, not without
a great deal of trouble, for they were as yet stran-
gers to each other, and every now and then one
or two would bolt off, a signal to the whole troop
to disperse all over the place, so that nearly an
RIDING ALONG THE STRAITS. 41
hour had elapsed before we had got well clear of
the colony, and found ourselves riding over an
undulating grassy stretch, en route for the pampas.
Our way lay over this plain for about an hour,
and then, having forded a small stream, we entered
the outskirts of the beechwood forests that line the
Straits. The foliage of the trees was fresh and
green, the sky clear and blue, the air sun-lit and
buoyant, and everything seeming to augur favour-
ably for the success of our trip, we were all in the
best of spirits.
Our road presently brought us down to the
Straits of Magellan, along whose narrow strip of
beach, in some places barely three yards broad,
we had now to ride in single file. Along the
coast the land terminates abruptly, and the trees
and bushes form an impenetrable thicket, which
comes down almost to the water's edge. Point
after point shoots out into the sea, each bearing a
monotonous resemblance to the other, though, as
we advanced, the vegetation that covered them
grew more and more stunted and scanty, till at
last the trees and bushes disappeared altogether,
and after a three hours' ride we found ourselves
journeying along under the shadow of some steep
bluffs, on which the only vegetation was a pro-
fusion of long coarse grass. Innumerable species
42 CAPE NEGRO.
of gulls and albatrosses were disporting themselves
on the blue water, and seemed little alarmed at our
approach, lazily rising from the water a moment as
we went past them, to resume almost immediately
their fishing operations. All along the beach,
carried there by the sea from the opposite side, I
noticed great quantities of the cooked shells of
crayfish, the remains of many a Fuegian- Indian
meal. The Tierra del Fuego itself was distinctly
visible opposite, and at different points we could
see tall columns of smoke rising up into the still
air, denoting the presence of native encampments,
just as Magellan had seen them four hundred years
before, giving to the island, on that account, the
name it still bears.
At Cabo Negro we stopped for a moment at a
little farmhouse, and partook of some mate, which
was hospitably offered us by the farmer's wife, and
then mounting again, we galloped over a broad
grassy plain where some sheep and cattle were
grazing, till we came to a steep wooded hill. On
its crest, under some spreading beeches, we resolved
to pitch our camp, water being near at hand, and
the position otherwise favourable. In a short time
the pack-horses were relieved of their loads, and
neighing joyfully, they galloped away to graze
in the plain we had just crossed. Our tents were
THE FIRST NIGHT UNDER CANVAS. 43
pitched, and having made up our beds in them, so
as to have everything ready by night-time, we
began to set about preparing dinner. Wood being
abundant, a roaring fire was soon blazing away
cheerily, some meat we had brought from Sandy
Point was put into the iron pot, together with
some rice, onions, etc., and then we lay down round
the fire, not a little fatigued by our day's exertions,
but inhaling the grateful odours arising from the
pot, with the expectant avidity of appetites which
the keen Patagonian air had stimulated to an un-
usual extent.
By the time dinner was over night had set in.
The moon had risen, and the clear star-lit sky
gave assuring promises of a continuance of fine
weather. A slight breeze stirred the branches
overhead, and in the distance we could hear the
lowing of the cattle on the plains, and the faint
tinkling of the bells of the brood-mares. The
strange novelty of the scene seemed to influence
us all, and the men smoked their pipes in silence.
Before going to bed I went for a short stroll to the
shores of a broad lagoon which lay at the foot of
the hill on which our camp was pitched. Its
waters glittered brightly in the moonlight, but
the woods which surrounded it were sombre and
dark. Occasionally the sad plaintive cry of a grebe
I
44 UNEXPECTED ARRIVALS.
broke the silence, startling me not a little the first
time I heard it, for it sounds exactly like the wail
of a human being in pain. Going back to the
camp I found my companions preparing to go to
bed, an example I was not slow to follow, and
soon, wrapt up in our guanaco-fur robes, with our
saddles for pillows, we were all fast asleep.
It had been agreed that the next morning one
of our party should go back to Sandy Point, to
see how the guides were getting on, and Mr. B.
having volunteered to perform that task, I rose
at an early hour to get him his breakfast and see
him off on his journey. Then, whilst my brother
and husband went out with their guns to shoot
wild -duck, I busied myself writing a few last
letters to friends at home. This done, I rode
down to the Straits, and had a plunge into the
water, but it was so cold that I got quite numbed,
and with difficulty managed to dry and dress
myself. Late in the afternoon the sportsmen
returned, bringing an excellent bag with them,
and we speedily set about plucking a few birds,
and making other preparations for dinner. Just
as, that meal being over, we had settled ourselves
comfortably round the fire, prepared lazily to
enjoy the lovely evening, our camp-servant, who
had been on the look-out for the return of
OUR GUESTS. 45
Mr. B., reported that a troop of about ten
horsemen were coming our way. As Indian
traders do not go out to the pampas in such large
parties, he was quite at a loss to imagine who the
people could be who were riding out so late at
night, especially as they had no pack-horses with
them. We all got up and went to have a look at
these mysterious horsemen. As they approached
the foot of our hill we could see that they were all
armed with guns and rifles, a circumstance which
began to suggest unpleasant recollections of the
last Sandy Point mutiny. Could it be that
another outbreak had occurred, and that these
men were escaping to the pampas ? If so, they
might possibly make a descent on us in passing,
and supply any deficiencies in their own outfit
from ours. This was a rather startling state of
affairs, and we were hurriedly holding counsel as
to what was the best course to take under the
circumstances, when our dogs suddenly started
up, and began barking furiously. Then came the
sound of horses' hoofs, and brushing through the
tall furze, two horsemen galloped straight towards
our camp, followed, as the sound of voices told
us, by the rest of the party. In another second
the two foremost ones reined up in front of us,
turning out to be, not bloodthirsty mutineers, but
46 OUR GUESTS.
Mr. Dunsmuir and Mr. Beerbohm. A few words
explained all. The party was composed of some
officers of the " Prinz Adalbert," a German man-
of-war, which had anchored at Sandy Point that
morning, Mr. B. having gone on board and in-
vited them out to our camp for a day's shooting.
Delighted at this solution of the situation, we
hurried to welcome our new guests, who now
arrived tired and hungry after their long ride.
Among their number were H.I.H. Prince Henry
of Prussia, who was on a cruise in the " Prinz
Adalbert," and her commander, Captain Maclean.
Fresh logs were added to the blazing fire,
meat was set to roast, soup put on to cook, and
every preparation made for a good supper an
easy task, as the officers had brought plentiful
supplies of all kinds of provisions with them.
We then lay round the fire, the new-comers
evidently quite charmed by our cosy sylvan
quarters, and by the novelty of the strange picnic,
which they had little anticipated making in
Patagonia, of all places in the world.
I was much amused at Mr. B.'s account of
how the expedition had been initiated. He had
got into Sandy Point at about nine o'clock, and
at ten the " Prinz Adalbert " was signalled in the
offing.
A NOVEL PICNIC. 47
As soon as she had cast anchor he went on
board, having been previously acquainted with
the captain, and at breakfast explained his
presence in such an out-of-the-way part of the
world as Sandy Point, by an account of our
intended trip, and finally asked the captain and
the officers to come out to our camp and try for
themselves what open-air life in Patagonia was
like. He had little difficulty in persuading them
to accept his offer, and whilst the officers made
their preparations, he went on shore to hunt up
ten horses, the number required. This was an
easy matter ; but it was another thing to find as
many saddles, for, though many people in Sandy
Point own numbers of horses, few have more than
one saddle, and such being the case, they are loth
to lend what at any moment may be of pressing
necessity for themselves. However, by dint of
ingenious combinations, some kind of an apology
for a saddle was fitted to each horse, and the
whole party at last set off on their trip in high
spirits, and very well pleased with everything.
Each officer carried a blanket or rug with him,
and, as some shooting was expected, a gun and
some ammunition. For the first two hours all
went well, the air was warm and sunny, the
scenery novel and interesting, and a zest was
48 ROUGH-RIDING.
given to the expedition by its unconventional
character and the suddenness with which it had
been improvised.
But after a time the hard action of the horses
and the roughness of some of the saddles began
to have their effect, especially as many of the
officers were little accustomed to riding. Occa-
sionally Mr. B. would be asked, at first in tones
of implied cheerful unconcern, " How far is it to
the camp ? " To this question he would reply by
a wave of the hand in the direction of one of the
many points which shoot out along the Straits,
saying, " A little beyond that point." Then, as
point after point was passed, and the answer to
inquiries still continued, as before, " A little
beyond that point," gradually the laughter and
chat which had enlivened the outset of the trip
grew more constrained, occasional lapses of
complete silence intervening. Now and then one
of the riders would move uneasily in the saddle
and sigh and on the faces of many (especially
of those who rode stirrupless saddles) fell in time
an expression of fixed resignation to suffering,
which was not unheroic. Mr. B. observed all
this, and his conscience began to smite him. At
starting, in an amiable endeavour to put every-
thing in a rosy light, he had slightly understated
ROUGH-RIDING. 49
the distance to our camp, and now the terrible
consequences of his rashness were already visiting
him. The quasi-martyrs whom he was leading,
it was but too evident, were only bearing up
against suffering by the comforting consciousness
that they must be close to the camp. He could
not undeceive them ; he felt himself wofully want-
ing in courage enough to break the truth ; and yet
the only alternative was to go on repeating the
now to him, as to everybody else, hateful formula,
"A little beyond that point." His victims could
only imagine one thing that he had lost the way,
though in fact he knew the road and its length
only too well. Never, as he said, had it been so
palpably brought before him that the way to hell
is paved with good intentions ; and his intentions,
when mystifying the party as to the length of the
road, had been of the best.
However, all things come to an end, and at
last, with a feeling of deep relief, he was able to
point out our hill to the weary saddle-worn band,
whose advent, as possible mutineers, had thrown
us into such a panic.
By the time Mr. B. had finished his story
supper was ready, and that important fact having
been duly announced, our hungry guests fell to,
and made a hearty meal. The strain which their
E
50 THERE WAS A SOUND OF REVELRY.
number put on the capabilities of our batterie de
cuisine was fortunately relieved by a profusion of
tinned provisions of all kinds which they had
wisely brought with them, and under those
Patagonian beeches, together with the native
mutton, were discussed asperges en jus, which
had attained their delicate flavour under the mild
fostering of a Dutch summer, pates elaborated far
away among the blue Alsatian mountains, and
substantial, though withal subtly flavoured, sausages
from the fatherland itself. After supper pipes
were lit, and the wine-cup went round freely, the
woods resounding with laughter and song till
nearly midnight, by which time most of the party
were beginning to feel the effects of their day's
exertions, and to long for bed. In one of our
tents we managed to make up four couches, on
which the Prince, the Captain, Count Seckendorff,
and another officer respectively laid their weary
limbs, and went to sleep as best they might.
The Captain, a strong stout man, had suffered
more than any one from the ride, and it must
have been a moot question in his secret heart
whether the day's enjoyment had not been
somewhat dearly purchased.
The others kept up the ball still later, and it
must have been quite two o'clock before the last
THERE WAS A SOUND OF REVELRY. 51
convive rolled himself up in his blanket by the
fire, and silence fell over our camp. At about
that hour I peered out of my tent at the scene.
Round a huge heap of smouldering logs, in
various attitudes, suggestive of deep repose, lay
the forms of the sleepers whom chance had thus
strangely thrown together for one night. Our
dogs had risen from their sleep, and in their turn
were making merry over whatever bones or other
fragments of the feast they managed to ferret out.
A few moonbeams struggled through the canopy
of leaves and branches overhead, throwing strange
lights and shadows over the camp, and the weird
effect of the whole scene was heightened by the
mysterious wail of the grebe, which at intervals
came floating up in the air from the lake below,
like the voice of an unquiet spirit.
52 DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS.
CHAPTER V.
DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS THE START FOR THE PAMPAS
AN UNTOWARD ACCIDENT A DAY'S SPORT UNPLEASANT
EFFECTS OF THE WIND OFF CAPE GREGORIO.
THE sun had hardly risen the next morning ere
our little camp was again astir. Making a hasty
toilet I stepped out and found that our guests
had all risen, and were busy in getting their guns
and shooting accoutrements ready for the coming
sport. As soon as they had partaken of some
coffee, the whole party started off to the plains
below, and for an hour or so, till their return, the
repeated reports of their guns seemed to indicate
that they were having good sport. Towards
breakfast -time they came back, fairly satisfied
with their morning's work, though I am inclined
to attribute this satisfaction to their evident desire
to look at everything connected with their pic-
nic from an optimist point of view, as their bag
was in reality a very small one, consisting only of
a few brace of snipe and wild -duck. We then
DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS. 53
set to work to get a good breakfast ready, at
which employment Prince Henry lent an intelli-
gent hand, turning out some poached eggs in
excellent style. We had a very pleasant meal,
the officers expressing great regret that they were
unable to prolong their stay in our beechwood
quarters, the steamer being obliged to continue
her journey that evening. Whilst they smoked a
last pipe, the horses were driven up and saddled,
and at about eight o'clock, Mr. B. and myself
accompanying them as guides, they mounted and
set out on the road homeward.
The stiffness consequent on their exertions of
the previous day must have made the sensations
they experienced on returning to the saddle any-
thing but pleasant ones, and at the start a
decidedly uncheerful spirit seemed to prevail
among them ; but as we cantered along, and they
warmed to their work, this uneasiness disappeared,
and soon all were as merry as possible. The day
was lovely, and the scenery looked to the best
advantage, the only drawback to our enjoyment
of the ride being that the sun was rather too hot.
After we had gone several miles we got off
our horses to rest under the shade of some trees,
by the side of a little stream which came bubbling
out of the cool depths of the forest, emptying
54 DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS.
itself into the adjacent Straits. Here an incident
occurred which might have been attended with
inconvenient consequences. One of the officer's
horses suddenly took it into its head to trot off, and,
before any one could stop it, disappeared round
a point in the direction of Sandy Point. Mr. B.
got on his horse and started in pursuit, and in
the meanwhile a time of some suspense ensued,
for, in the event of his being unsuccessful, some
unfortunate would have had to make the best
of his way on foot. However, this unpleasant
contingency was happily avoided ; Mr. B. soon
reappeared, having managed to catch the runaway,
not indeed without a great deal of trouble.
We reached Sandy Point late in the afternoon,
and very glad the whole party must have been to
get there, for they were most of them completely
done up, and, considering the length of the ride,
their rough horses and rougher saddles, this was
no wonder.
After having said good-bye to the officers,
with many expressions of thanks on their part for
the unexpected diversion our presence in that
outlandish part of the world had afforded them,
Mr. B. and I immediately set out to return to the
camp, which we managed to reach just as it was
getting dark.
THE START FOR THE PAMPAS. 55
Everything was now ready for our journey,
and it was resolved that we should make a start
the next morning. We were therefore up early,
in order to help the guides as much as possible
with the packing, which was quite a formidable
undertaking. It took fully three hours to get our
miscellaneous goods and chattels stowed away on
the pack-horses, whose number was thirteen. At
last, however, all was ready ; we got into the
saddle, and with a last glance at the beechwood
camp, which had grown quite familiar and home-
like to us, we rode off, now fairly started on our
journey into the unknown land that lay before us.
We soon had our hands full to help the guides to
keep the horses together, a rather difficult task.
The mules in particular gave great trouble, and
were continually leading the horses into mischief.
At one time, as if by preconcerted signal, the
whole troop dispersed in different directions into
the wood, and there, brushing through the thick
underwood, many of the pack-horses upset their
packs, and trampled on the contents, whilst some
of the others turned tail, and coolly trotted back
to the pasture-ground they had just left at Cabo
Negro.
All this was very provoking, but, with a little
patience and a good deal of swearing on the part
5 6 THE PAMPAS.
of the guides, the refractory pack-horses were
re-saddled, the troop was got together again, and
by dint of careful driving we at last got safely
out of the wooded country, and emerged on the
rolling pampa, where there was for some distance
a beaten Indian track, along which the horses
travelled with greater ease, till, gradually under-
standing what was required of them, they jogged
on in front of us with tolerable steadiness and
sobriety, which was only occasionally disturbed by
such slight ebullitions as a free fight between
two of the stallions, or an abortive attempt on the
part of some hungry animal to make a dash for
some particularly inviting- looking knoll of green
grass at a distance off the line of our march.
The country we were now crossing was of a
totally different character to that we had left
behind us. Not a tree or a shrub was to be seen
anywhere, and while to the left of us lay the
rugged range of the Cordilleras, in front and to
the right an immense plain stretched away to the
horizon, rising and falling occasionally in slight
undulations, but otherwise completely and mono-
tonously level. The ground, which was rather
swampy, was covered with an abundance of coarse
green grass, amongst which we could see flocks
of wild geese grazing in great numbers. We
EL DESPUNTADERO. 57
passed several freshwater lakes, covered with
wild-fowl, who flew up very wild at our approach.
A hawk or two would occasionally hover over
our heads, and once the dogs started off in pursuit
of a little grey fox that had incautiously shown
itself; but except these, there was no sign of
animal life on the silent, seemingly interminable
plain before us.
After we had ridden for several hours, we
turned off to the left, facing the Cordilleras again,
and soon the plain came to a sudden end, a
broken country now appearing, over which we
rode till nightfall, when we -came in sight of the
" Despuntadero," the extremity of Peckett's Har-
bour, an arm of the sea which runs for some
distance inland. Here we were to camp for the
night, and as we were all rather tired and hungry
after our long ride, we urged on our horses to
cover the distance that still lay between us and
our camping -place as quickly as possible. But
to "hasten slowly" would have been a wiser
course in this case, as in most others. The rapid
trot at which we now advanced disturbed the equi-
librium of one of the packs, the cords holding
which had already become slack, and down came
the whole pack, iron pot, tin plates, and all, with
an awful clatter, whilst the mare who carried it,
5 8 AN UNTOWARD ACCIDENT.
terrified out of her wits, dashed off at a gallop,
spurring with her heels her late encumbrances,
and followed by the whole troop of her equally
frightened companions.
The pampa was strewn with broken bags; and
rice, biscuits, and other precious stores lay scat-
tered in all directions. When we had picked up
what we could, and replaced the pack on the
mare, who in the meantime had been caught
again, we were further agreeably surprised by the
sight of another packless animal galloping over the
brow of a distant hill, followed at some distance
by Gregorio, who was trying to lasso it, whilst
I'Aria was descried in another direction, endea-
vouring to collect together another scattered sec-
tion of our troop. Off we scampered to aid him,
turning on the way to drive up one of the mares,
whom we accidentally found grazing with her
foal in a secluded valley, " the guides forgetting,
by the guides forgot."
By the time we got up to I' Aria, the obstinacy
and speed of the refractory animals had evidently
proved too much for him, inasmuch as we found
him sitting under a bush philosophically smoking
a pipe. In answer to our query as to what had
become of the horses, he waved his hand vaguely
in the direction of a distant line of hills, and we
A DATS SPORT. 59
were just setting off on what we feared would
prove a rather arduous quest when a welcome
tinkle suddenly struck our ears, and the troop
reappeared from the depths of a ravine, driven up
by Francisco, who had providentially come across
them in time to intercept their further flight.
It was quite dark as we rode down and
pitched our camp by the shore of the inlet above
mentioned, under the lee of a tall bluff, not far
from a little pool of fresh water. After the tents
had been set up some of the men went to look
for firewood, but there was a scarcity of that
necessary in the region we were now in, and the
little they could collect was half green. However,
we managed to make a very fair fire with it, and
our dinner was soon cooked and eaten, whereupon
we retired to rest.
The next morning was fine, and we resolved
to stop a day at our present encampment and
have some shooting, game, as Gregorio informed
us, being plentiful in that region. After a light
breakfast we took our guns and started off in
the direction of a group of freshwater lakes
which lay beyond a range of hills behind our
camp. We were rewarded for our arduous climb
by some excellent sport, wild geese, duck, etc.,
being very plentiful, and on our way back we
60 UNPLEASANT EFFECTS OF THE WIND.
crossed some marshy ground where there were
some snipe, several brace of which we bagged.
In the afternoon, it being rather hot and sultry,
we refreshed ourselves with a bath in the sea, and
then came dinner-time, and by half-past seven we
were in bed and asleep.
The following day we continued our journey
northward. A long day's ride brought us to
some springs, called " Pozos de la Reina," where
we camped for the night. After we had rested
for a short time round the fire, and had leisure to
look at one another, we became aware of a most
disagreeable metamorphosis that had taken place
in our faces. They were swollen to an almost
unrecognisable extent, and had assumed a deep
purple hue, the phenomenon being accompanied
by a sharp itching. The boisterous wind which
we had encountered during the day, and which is
the standing drawback to the otherwise agreeable
climate of Patagonia, was no doubt the cause of
this annoyance, combined possibly with our salt-
water bath of the day previous.
After a few days the skin of our faces peeled
off completely, but the swelling did not go down
for some time. I would advise any person who
may make the same journey to provide them-
selves with masks ; by taking this precaution they
OFF CAPE GREGORIO. 61
will save themselves a great deal of the discomfort
we suffered from the winds.
The following day we left " Pozos de la
Reina," and pushed forward as quickly as possible,
as we had no meat left, and had not yet arrived
in the country of the guanacos and ostriches.
The Indians had very recently passed over all the
ground we were now crossing, and, as usual, had
swept away any game there might have been
there.
The range where guanaco really become
plentiful is about eighty miles away from Sandy
Point. Still we kept a good look-out, and any
ostrich or guanaco that might have had the
misfortune to show itself would have stood a
poor chance of escape with some eight or nine
hungry dogs and a number of not less keen
horsemen at its heels.
But the day wore on, and we arrived at our
destination empty-handed. The spot we camped
at lay directly in front of Cape Gregorio, which
was hazily visible in the distance. There was
an abundance of wood in the locality, and the
Indian camp being not far off, we were conveni-
ently situated in every respect, as we intended
paying these interesting people a visit before
continuing our journey.
62 VISIT TO THE INDIAN CAMP.
CHAPTER VI.
VISIT TO THE INDIAN CAMP A PATAGONIAN INDIAN CURIOSITY
PHYSIQUE COSTUME WOMEN PROMINENT CHARACTER-
ISTICS AN INDIAN INCROYABLE SUPERSTITIOUSNESS.
SINCE we left Sandy Point our dogs had had no
regular meal, and had subsisted chiefly on rice
and biscuits, a kind of food which, being
accustomed to meat only, was most uncongenial
to their tastes and unprofitable to their bodies.
For their sakes, therefore, as well as for our own,
we looked forward to our visit to the Indian
camp, apart from other motives of interest, in the
hopes of obtaining a sufficient supply of meat to
last for all of us, until we should arrive in the
promised land of game.
After breakfast the horses were saddled, and
taking some sugar, tobacco, and other articles for
bartering purposes, we set out for the Indian
camp, accompanied by Gregorio and Guillaume.
I'Aria and Storer were left in charge of our camp,
and Francisco went off with the dogs towards
A PATAGONIAN. 63
Cape Gregorio, in the hope of falling in with
some stray ostrich or guanaco. The weather was
fine, and for once we were able to rejoice in the
absence of the rough winds which were our daily
annoyance. We had not gone far when we saw
a rider coming slowly towards us, and in a few
minutes we found ourselves in the presence of a
real Patagonian Indian. We reined in our horses
when he got close to us, to have a good look at
him, and he doing the same, for a few minutes we
stared at him to our hearts' content, receiving in
"return as minute and careful a scrutiny from him.
Whatever he may have thought of us, we thought
him a singularly unprepossessing object, and, for
the sake of his race, we hoped an unfavourable
specimen of it. His dirty brown face, of which
the principal feature was a pair of sharp black
eyes, was half-hidden by tangled masses of un-
kempt hair, held together by a handkerchief tied
over his forehead, and his burly body was
enveloped in a greasy guanaco-capa, considerably
the worse for wear. His feet were bare, but one
of his heels was armed with a little wooden spur,
of curious and ingenious handiwork. Having
completed his survey of our persons, and ex-
changed a few guttural grunts with Gregorio, of
which the purport was that he had lost some
64 THE CAMP.
horses and was on their search, he galloped away,
and, glad to find some virtue in him, we were able
to admire the easy grace with which he sat his
well-bred looking little horse, which, though con-
siderably below his weight, was doubtless able to
do its master good service.
Continuing our way we presently observed
several mounted Indians, sitting motionless on
their horses, like sentries, on the summit of a tall
ridge ahead of us, evidently watching our move-
ments. At our approach they disappeared over
the ridge, on the other side of which lay their*
camping- ground. Cantering forward we soon
came in sight of the entire Indian camp, which
was pitched in a broad valley-plain, flanked on
either side by steep bluffs, and with a little stream
flowing down its centre. There were about a
dozen big hide tents, in front of which stood
crowds of men and women, watching our approach
with lazy curiosity. Numbers of little children
were disporting themselves in the stream, which
we had to ford in order to get to the tents. Two
Indians, more inquisitive than their brethren, came
out to meet us, both mounted on the same horse,
and saluted us with much grinning and jabbering.
On our arrival in the camp we were soon encircled
by a curious crowd, some of whose number gazed
INDIAN CURIOSITY. 65
at us with stolid gravity, whilst others laughed
and gesticulated as they discussed our appearance
in their harsh guttural language, with a vivacious
manner which was quite at variance with the
received traditions of the solemn bent of the
Indian mind. Our accoutrements and clothes
seemed to excite great interest, my riding-boots
in particular being objects of attentive examina-
tion, and apparently of much serious speculation.
At first they were content to observe them from
a distance, but presently a little boy was delegated
by the elders, to advance and give them a closer
inspection. This he proceeded to do, coming
towards me with great caution, and when near
enough, he stretched out his hand and touched
the boots gently with the tips of his fingers. This
exploit was greeted with roars of laughter and
ejaculations, and emboldened by its success, many
now ventured to follow his example, some enter-
prising spirits extending their researches to the
texture of my ulster, and one even going so far
as to take my hand in his, whilst subjecting a
little bracelet I wore to a profound and exhaustive
scrutiny.
Whilst they were thus occupied I had leisure
to observe their general appearance. I was not
struck so much by their height as by their extra-
F
66 PHYSIQUE OF THE TEHUELCHES.
ordinary development of chest and muscle. As
regards their stature, I do not think the average
height of the men exceeded six feet, and as my
husband stands six feet two inches I had a
favourable opportunity for forming an accurate
estimate. One or two there were, certainly, who
towered far above him, but these were exceptions.
The women were mostly of the ordinary height,
though I noticed one who must have been quite six
feet, if not more. The features of the pure-bred
Tehuelche are extremely regular, and by no means
unpleasant to look at. The nose is generally
aquiline, the mouth well shaped and beautified by
the whitest of teeth, the expression of the eye is
intelligent, and the form of the whole head affords
a favourable index to their mental capabilities.
These remarks do not apply to the Tehuelches in
whose veins there is a mixture of Araucanian or
Fuegian blood. The flat noses, oblique eyes, and
badly proportioned figures of the latter make them
most repulsive objects, and they are as different
from a pure-bred Tehuelche in every respect as
(( Wheel-of-Fortune " from an ordinary carthorse.
Their hair is long and coarse, and is worn parted
in the middle, being prevented from falling over
their faces by means of a handkerchief, or fillet of
some kind, tied round the forehead. They have
COSTUME. 67
naturally little hair on the face, and such growth
as may appear is carefully eradicated, a painful
operation, which many extend even to their eye-
brows. Their dress is simple, and consists of a
" chiripd," a piece of cloth round the loins, and the
indispensable guanaco capa, which is hung loosely
over the shoulders and held round the body by
the hand, though it would obviously seem more
convenient to have it secured round the waist with
a belt of some kind. Their horse-hide boots are
only worn, for reasons of economy, when hunting.
The women dress like the men except as regards
the chiripa, instead of which they wear a loose
kind of gown beneath the capa, which they fasten
at the neck with a silver brooch or pin. The
children are allowed to run about naked till they
are five or six years old, and are then dressed like
their elders. Partly for ornament, partly also as
a means of protection against the wind, a great
many Indians paint their faces, their favourite
colour, as far as I could see, being red, though
one or two I observed had given the preference
to a mixture of that colour with black, a very
diabolical appearance being the result of this
combination.
The Tehuelches are a race that is fast
approaching extinction, and even at present it
68 TEHUELCHE WOMEN.
scarcely numbers eight hundred souls. They lead
a rambling nomadic existence, shifting their camp-
ing places from one region to another, whenever
the game in their vicinity gets shy or scarce. It
is fortunate for them that the immense numbers
of guanaco and ostriches makes it an easy matter
for them to find subsistence, as they are extremely
lazy, and, plentiful as game is around them, often
pass two or three days without food rather than
incur the very slight exertion attendant on a day's
hunting.
But it is only the men who are cursed or
blessed with this indolent spirit. The women
are indefatigably industrious. All the work of
Tehuelche existence is done by them except
hunting. When not employed in ordinary house-
hold work they busy themselves in making guan-
aco capas, weaving gay -coloured garters and
fillets for the hair, working silver ornaments, and
so forth. Not one of their least arduous tasks is
that of collecting firewood, which, always a scarce
article, becomes doubly hard to find, except by
going great distances, when they camp long in
one place.
But though treated thus unfairly as regards the
division of labour, the women can by no means com-
plain of want of devotion to them on the part of the
PROMINENT CHARACTERISTICS. 69
men. Marriages are matters of great solemnity
with them, and the tie is strictly kept. Husband
and wife show great affection for one another, and
both agree in extravagant love of their offspring,
which they pet and spoil to their hearts' content.
The most prominent characteristic of the
Tehuelche is his easy-going good humour, for
whereas most aboriginal races incline to silence
and saturnine gravity, he is all smiles and chatter.
The other good qualities of the race are fast dis-
appearing under the influence of " aquadiente," to
the use of which they are getting more and more
addicted, and soon, it is to be feared, they will
become nothing more than a pack of impoverished,
dirty, thieving ragamuffins.
After having sat for some time on horseback,
in the centre of the numerous circle above referred
to, we dismounted, the act causing fresh animation
and merriment in our interviewers, whose interest
in us, after a thorough examination, had begun to
flag somewhat. An object which greatly excited
their feelings was a rifle belonging to my brother,
and their delight knew no bounds when he dis-
mounted and fired it off for their edification once
or twice at a distant mark. At each discharge
they set up a lusty howl of satisfaction, and nothing
would do for them but for each to be allowed to
70 INDIAN WIT.
handle the weapon and inspect its mechanism.
There was a trader in the camp who had arrived
about the same time as we did, and amongst other
wares he had brought a rusty carbine with him for
sale. He was called upon by the Indians to pro-
duce it and fire it off to compare its qualities with
those of my brother's rifle. This he proceeded to
do, but seven times in succession the cartridges
missed fire. Each time this happened he was
erected with shouts of derisive laughter, and it
o
was evident that both he and his weapon were the
objects of most disparaging remarks on the part
of the Tehuelches. One of them, a man of some
humour, brought out a small piece of ostrich meat
and offered it to the trader in exchange for his
carbine, saying in broken Spanish, " Your gun
never kill piece of meat as big as this. Your gun
good to kill dead guanaco." At which witticism
there was renewed and prolonged applause, as
the newspapers say.
But excitement reached its height when I
produced the bag of sugar we had brought, and
began to distribute small handfuls of its contents
among the children. Everybody pressed round
me men and women, hustling and pushing in
their eagerness to get some of the coveted dainty.
1 was obliged to be careful in my bounty, how-
AN INDIAN " INCROYABLE:
ever, or we should not have enough left to obtain
any meat in exchange, and a great many sweet-
toothed Tehuelches had to remain disappointed in
consequence. As it was, we found considerable
difficulty in obtaining any meat. The Indians
had not been out hunting for three days, and
there was hardly anything but pemmican in the
camp, a greasy concoction, with which we by
no means cared to experiment on our stomachs.
With difficulty we at last succeeded in obtaining
the leg and breast of an ostrich, and a small piece
of half sun-dried guanaco meat, which looked
extremely untempting. This transaction having
been accomplished, we wandered leisurely about
the camp, glancing at the different objects of
interest that came in our way, pestered not a
little as we moved along by swarms of yelping
curs, which barked and snapped viciously at us,
and could only be kept at a respectful distance by
a free use of stones and whips. At one of the
tents we saw two remarkably clean and pretty
girls, who were engaged on some kind of sewing
work ; and beside them probably making love
to one (or both) stood an equally good-looking
youth, who struck me by the peculiar neatness of
his dress, and his general " tir a quatre epingles "
appearance. His hair was brushed and combed,
7 2 INDIAN SUPERSTITIO USNESS.
and carefully parted, a bright red silk handker-
chief keeping its glossy locks in due subjection.
His handsome guanaco capa was new, and bril-
liantly painted on the outside, and being half
opened, displayed a clean white chiripa, fastened
at the waist by a silver belt of curious workman-
ship. A pair of neatly fitting horse-hide boots
encased his feet, reaching up to the knees, where
they were secured by a pair of gay -coloured
garters, possibly the gift of one of the fair
maidens at his side.
Struck by his graceful bearing and well-bred
looking face, I begged Mr. B., who had brought
a sketch-book with him, to make a sketch of this
handsome son of the pampa. During the pro-
cess the young Indian never moved, and pre-
served a perfectly indifferent demeanour ; but
when the picture was finished, and given to him
for inspection, his forehead contracted with anger,
an expression of fear came in his eyes ; he gave
vent to some angry sounding gutturals, and
finally, much to our annoyance, tore the portrait
to pieces. He was under the impression that the
object of making the sketch was to throw some
evil spell over him, and that a misfortune would
happen if it were not destroyed. Being relieved
of this danger, his feelings regained their natural
BARTER. 73
calm, and he grinned contentedly at our evident
wrath at his high-handed proceeding.
The Indians were about to make their annual
visit to Sandy Point, where they go to obtain the
rations of sugar, tobacco, etc., allowed to them
by the Chilian Government, and to barter with
the inhabitants for the luxuries of civilisation, in
exchange for furs and ostrich feathers, at which
transactions, as they are seldom sober during
their stay outside the colony, they generally get
worsted by the cunning white man. Our curiosity
regarding the Indians being satisfied, and having
obtained all the meat we could from them, we
now turned homewards.
74 THE PRAIRIE FIRE.
CHAPTER VII.
THE PRAIRIE FIRE.
As we rode along, our attention was attracted
by a faint smell of burning, and presently thick
clouds of smoke came rolling towards us. We
pressed wonderingly on, anxious to discover the
whereabouts of the fire, which we trusted lay
somewhere far from our camp. Reaching a
slight eminence, we were able to command a
view of the country ahead. A cry of dismay
escaped our lips as we looked around, and
drawing rein, we stared blankly at one another.
A fearful sight lay before us. To our left, right
in front, and gradually wreathing the hills to our
right, a huge prairie fire came rushing rapidly
along. Dense masses of smoke curled aloft, and
entirely obscured the sky ; the flames, which shot
fiercely up, cast a strange yellow glare over
everything. Even whilst we watched, a strong
gust of wind swept the fire with incredible
THE PRAIRIE FIRE. 75
swiftness towards us, and in a second we were
enveloped in such a dense cloud of smoke that
we were unable to see one another. The
situation had now become critical, and not a
moment was to be lost. Half choked, and
bewildered by the suddenness with which the
danger had come upon us, we scarcely knew
what course to take. Already our horses were
snorting with fear, as the crackling of -the burning
grass and bushes came nearer and nearer. To run
away from the coming fire was useless ; the alter-
native was to face it at a gallop, and get through
it if possible. To throw our guanaco mantles over
our heads, and draw them as tightly round us as
we could, was the work of a second, and then
digging our spurs into our horses, we dashed
forward, every one for himself. The moments
that followed seemed an eternity. As I urged
my unwilling horse forward, the sense of suffoca-
tion grew terrible, I could scarcely draw breath,
and the panting animal seemed to stagger beneath
me. The horrible crackling came nearer and
nearer; I became conscious of the most intolerable
heat, and my head began to swim round. My
horse gave two or three furious plunges, and then
burst madly forward. Almost choked, come what
might, I could bear the mantle over my head no
76 THE PRAIRIE FIRE.
longer, and tore it off me. The sudden sense
of relief that came over me as I did so, I shall
never forget. I looked up, the air was compara-
tively clear, and the fire behind me. By some
miracle I had passed through it unhurt ! I looked
for my companions, and, to my inexpressible joy,
saw them emerge one by one from the black mass
of smoke, which was now rapidly receding into
the distance. Congratulations and exclamations
over, we retraced our steps to try and discover
how we had managed to escape so luckily. The
reason was soon apparent. By a piece of fortune
we had happened to ride over a narrow pebbly
tract of ground, where the grass was extremely
sparse, and where there were but few bushes ;
had chance led us over any other track, where
the grass was thick and tall, we could scarcely
ever have got through the danger. Our poor
horses had suffered a good deal as it was, their
feet and legs being scorched and singed severely.
Our thoughts now flew to our camp, and to
Storer and I'Aria, whom we had left behind
there. That they had escaped we had little
doubt, but for our tents and chattels we felt there
was no hope. The landscape seemed completely
changed by the fire, all around, as far as we
could see, stretched black smoking plains, and the
THE PRAIRIE FIRE. 77
outlines of the hills had become quite unfamiliar
to us.
With rather heavy hearts we pushed forward,
eagerly scanning the country for some indication
which might guide us to the quarter where our
camp had stood. If, as we had every reason to
believe, our things were burnt, our Patagonian
trip was at an end, for the present, at all events.
Fortunately things did not turn out so badly.
Presently my husband, who was riding in advance
of the others, gave a shout, and made signals for
us to come on. I need hardly say that we did
not lose a moment in joining him, and a welcome
sight, as we got up to him, met our eyes. Some
two or three hundred yards below the hill on
which we were, we perceived our little white tents
standing safe and unharmed on a narrow green
tract of land, which looked like a smiling island
in the midst of the vast black plain. Storer and
FAria, too, we could see moving about, and, over-
joyed, we galloped down towards them, they run-
ning out to meet us, having suffered no little anxiety,
on their parts, as to what might have happened to
us. We pressed question after question to I' Aria
and Storer as to how they had managed to save the
camp. Storer was unable to give any intelligible
account, so entirely upset was he by fright, but
78 THE PRAIRIE FIRE.
I' Aria's natural philosophical calm had not de-
serted him, even on this occasion, and from him
we heard all particulars. The fire, he informed
us, had been caused by the Indian we had met in
the morning on the look-out for strayed horses.
This man had amused himself by setting fire to
the long dry grass in various places, and, fanned
by a strong wind, the flames spread, and soon
assumed enormous proportions.
Quick to perceive the possible danger our
camp was in, the Indian at once galloped up, and
with the assistance of I' Aria and Storer, set about
making a " contra-fuego " or counter fire, that is to
say, they gradually set fire to the grass all round
the camp, letting it burn a considerable tract, but
always keeping it well in subjection, beating it out
with bushes and trampling it under foot, so that it
could not get beyond their control. This pre-
cautionary measure was fortunately completed by
the time the big fire came on, and although, for a
minute or two, they were half suffocated by the
smoke, the fire passed harmlessly by the camp
itself, the burnt belt around it proving an effectual
safeguard.
Our horses were all safe, as they had been
grazing on the far side of a stream in an adjacent
valley. The camp was in great disorder ; the
THE PRAIRIE FIRE. 79
tents were blackened by the smoke, the provision-
bags and other chattels lay scattered in confusion.
Our furs and rugs had been used to cover the
cartridges with, for, whilst the fire raged around it,
the camp was deluged with showers of sparks, and
an explosion might easily have occurred, had this
precaution not been taken. For some time we
were busy putting things straight, and in the
meanwhile Frangois arrived from his hunting
excursion. It had proved unsuccessful ; and as
we had obtained but very little meat from the
Indians, for the sake of our dogs, who had been
on very short rations for some time, it became
a matter of great urgency that we should get as
soon as possible into regions where guanaco and
ostrich were plentiful, and accordingly we decided
to start on the following day. Dinner over, my
companions were not long before they went to
sleep, but feeling little inclination to follow their
example, I strolled out, and wandered round the
camp, watching with interest the strange changes
that came over the landscape as day waned and
night came slowly on. The black hills behind the
camp loomed like shadowy phantoms against the
sky ; far and wide slept the silent pampa, its
undulating surface illumined by the rays of a
lovely moon. The faint glow which tinged the
8o THE PRAIRIE FIRE.
horizon, and the strange noises which a puff of
wind occasionally brought to my ears, showed that
the mighty fire was still burning in the distance
with unbated fury, perhaps not to stop in its
devastating course till it reached the sea-coast.
For a long time I stood immersed in the con-
templation of this weird desolate scene, giving
myself up to the mysterious feelings and the
many vague and fanciful thoughts it suggested, till,
overcome with the excitement and exertions of
the day, I had at last to give way to drowsiness
and seek my couch.
UNPLEASANT VISITORS. 81
CHAPTER VIII.
UNPLEASANT VISITORS "SPEED THE PARTING GUEST" OFF
AGAIN AN OSTRICH EGG I'ARIA MISLEADS US STRIKING
OIL PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE WIND AND HAIL A
GUANACO AT LAST AN EXCITING RUN THE DEATH
HOME HUNGRY AS HUNTERS " FAT-BEHIND-THE-EYE."
THE next morning we were up betimes, as we
were going to continue our journey. Whilst we
were engaged in the tedious operation of packing
up, an Indian woman walked suddenly into the
ring of bushes which surrounded our encamp-
ment, and seated herself silently by the fire.
Gregorio elicited from her that on the previous
night the Indians had been drinking heavily, and
that she had had a quarrel with her husband
whilst both were inebriated, in consequence of
which she had left his tent, and was now on her
way to Sandy Point. She had walked the whole
distance from the Indian camp barefoot, but did
not seem in the least tired. I suppose she
counted on her husband's regretting his be-
haviour, and coming after her to fetch her back,
G
82 UNPLEASANT VISITORS.
for she could hardly have seriously entertained
the idea of walking all the way to Sandy Point.
I offered her some biscuits and a stick of choco-
late, which she accepted readily enough, but with-
out even so much as a grunt by way of thanks.
Presently she told Gregorio that the Indians
were breaking up their camp, and that some were
going to march on to Sandy Point. This piece
of information made us hurry on with our work,
as we dreaded being surprised by a party of
Indians, with all our effects scattered about,
offering tempting facilities for abstraction, which
the Tehuelche heart was sure not to be able to
resist. To such a visit we were moreover ex-
tremely liable, as our camp was unfortunately
close to the trail to Sandy Point.
Our fears were realised only too soon, for
about a quarter of an hour after the arrival of the
squaw two Indians came crashing unceremoni-
ously through the bushes ; and wheeling their
horses about the camp, careless of our crockery,
after a short examination they dismounted, and
coolly sat down by our fire, answering our angry
looks with imperturbed stares of stolid indiffer-
ence. Five minutes later another party arrived,
followed shortly by a further batch, and presently
we were quite inundated by a swarm of these un-
"SPEED THE PARTING GUEST? 83
bidden guests. Of course our work was stopped,
all our attention being required to look after our
goods and chattels. Over these we kept guard
in no very good humour, breathing fervent
prayers the while for speedy relief from our
friends, who on their part evinced no particular
hurry to go away. They had made themselves
comfortable at our fire, and were passing round
the social pipe in evident good humour with
themselves and their present quarters. To com-
plete the irony of the situation, one of their num-
ber who could speak Spanish came and asked me
for a little coffee, which he purposed to cook in
our kettle, which was still simmering conveniently
on the fire. As may be imagined, he met with
an indignant refusal ; however, it only appeared
to amuse him and his friends, and by no means
influenced them in hastening their departure.
Meanwhile time went on, and some expedient
for getting rid of them had to be devised unless
we wished to lose a whole day. It occurred to
us that they might possibly be bribed to go away
by means of a small offering of whisky ; and
through Gregorio we accordingly intimated to
them that if they would leave us they should be
rewarded for their kindness with a glass of that
spirit. To our relief they accepted this offer, and
84 OFF AGAIN.
we presently had the satisfaction of seeing them
ride leisurely away. To do them justice, I must
say that, contrary to our fears, they did not steal
any of our effects, though possibly the strict watch
we kept over them may have had something to
do with this unusual display of honesty.
The moment they had gone we redoubled our
efforts, and succeeded in getting all our horses
saddled and packed without further molestation.
The three mules still remained to be packed, but
these we left to the care of Gregorio and Guill-
aume who were to follow us, we, meanwhile,
starting off under the guidance of old I'Aria.
Francisco went off alone, by another route, in order
to forage for meat, be it ostrich or guanaco, of
which both ourselves and the dogs stood very
much in need, the small supply we had got from
the Indians being quite exhausted.
Just as we were leaving an Indian galloped
up, who turned out to be the husband of the
pedestrian squaw, who, after the departure of the
other Indians, still remained in our camp. The
reconciliation scene was a very short one, and did
not go beyond a few inexpressive grunts on either
side, after which the squaw got up on horseback
behind her husband, and off they rode towards
Sandy Point.
AN OSTRICH EGG. 85
We now struck northwards, leaving Cape
Gregorio, which lay directly opposite our late
encampment, at our backs. I' Aria having to keep
the troop together singlehanded we had plenty to
do to help him, and in galloping after refractory
horses, urging on the lazy ones, and occasionally
stopping to adjust packs, the time passed quickly
enough. We occasionally crossed tracts of land
covered with a plant bearing a profusion of red
berries of the cranberry species. They were
quite ripe now, and we found them pleasant and
refreshing. The weather was, as usual, sunny and
bracing ; and except that as yet we had not seen a
guanaco or given chase to a single ostrich, we had
nothing to grumble about. FAria told us that we
were certain to meet with guanaco on that day's
march, so, with this assurance, we comforted our-
selves and kept a sharp look-out, eagerly scanning
the horizon of each successive plain, and woe
betide the unfortunate animal that might appear
within our ken. The day passed, however, and a
dark patch of beeches, which stood near the spot
where we were to camp that night, appeared in
view without our having seen either an ostrich or
a guanaco. Somebody found an ostrich egg
though, and it was carefully kept against dinner-
time, for although it must have been laid two or
86 PARIA MISLEADS US.
perhaps three months, there was still a possibility
of its being tolerably good, as these eggs occasion-
ally keep till the month of April, six months after
laying time.
Towards sunset we arrived at a broad valley
scattered over with picturesque clumps of beeches,
and bordered on its far side by a thick wood of
the same tree. I' Aria pointed out a spot to us
where he said there were some springs, by the side
of which we were to camp, and thither we accord-
ingly rode. But when we got there no springs
were to be seen, and I' Aria said he must have
mistaken the place. He suddenly remembered,
however, that a conspicuous clump of beeches,
some way up the valley, marked the right spot, so
we turned in that direction. But again was FAria
mistaken, and when following various of his
sudden inspirations we had wandered about the
valley in all directions for a considerable time
without coming across these problematic springs,
we began to think ourselves justified in presuming
that FAria had lost his way, and in charging him
with the same. He denied the accusation, how-
ever, with a calm and steady assurance, which,
considering that all the time he was leading us
about in aimless helplessness, would have had
something rather humorous about it had our
"STRIKING OIL:' 87
situation been a less serious one. If we did not
succeed in finding the springs, besides having to
endure the torture of thirst ourselves we should
have to stop up all night to look after the horses,
who would be certain to go off in search of water
and get lost. It was rapidly getting dark too,
and there were no signs of the arrival of any
of the other guides, whose absence was a further
confirmation that we could not be on the right
track. As a last resource we resolved to separate,
and each go in a different direction in search of
water, though I must say we had little hopes of
success, it being known to us that beyond the
springs in question there was no other water in
that part of the country for a considerable distance.
Hurling bitter but useless anathemas at FAria,
who was now confidently pointing out a new spot
as the " really " right one, we accordingly broke up,
and having arranged to fire a shot as a signal,
should any one of us find water, dispersed over the
valley in all directions.
I had hardly skirted the beechwood for more
than a minute or so when my horse suddenly
neighed joyfully, and in an opening among the
trees I saw two or three small pools of spring
water. Overjoyed, I lost no time in firing off my
gun, the report of which soon brought up all the
88 PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE.
others, who had not gone far. In justice to FAria
it must be said that for the last hour he had been
wandering about close to where the springs lay,
and his persistent denial of having lost his way
was so far justified. Besides, as there was no trail
of any description across the pampa over which
we had that day ridden, it was really no easy
matter to hit on the right spot immediately.
We had just set up the tents and made the fire
when Gregorio and Guillaume, at whose prolonged
absence, now that we were at the springs our-
selves, we had become rather uneasy, appeared
with the mules. They had been delayed on the
road by the packs getting undone. Francisco too
soon came up, and though he had been unsuccess-
ful in the chase, he arrived in time to cook an
excellent omelette for our dinners with the ostrich
egg, which turned out to be perfectly sound and
palatable.
The next day was to be devoted to guanaco-
hunting, the want of meat having become quite a
serious matter ; our dogs were getting weak, and
our stores, on which we had to rely solely for
food, were disappearing in an alarmingly quick
manner.
It is marvellous how the ordinary excitement
of hunting is increased when, as in our case,
PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE. 89
one's dinner depends on one's success; and it was
with feelings almost of solemnity, that early in the
morning we selected and saddled our best horses,
sharpened our hunting- knives, slung our rifles,
and, followed by the dogs, who knew perfectly well
that real earnest sport was meant, threaded the
beechwood and rode up on to the plateau, where,
according to the unanimous assurance of the guides,
we could not fail to meet with guanaco.
I'Aria and Storer having been left behind to
look after the camp, our hunting-party numbered
seven. In order to cover as much ground as
possible we spread out in a line, extending over
about two miles, and in this order we cantered
northward from the valley, carefully scanning the
plain, which stretched flat away for a good distance,
but apparently as bare of guanaco as it was of
grass. The weather, unlike that of the preceding
day, was very cold, and a bitterly sharp wind blew
right into our faces, making those of our number
who had neglected to bring their greatcoats or
furs very uncomfortable. This, however, was
a trifling matter, if only those good guanacos
would obligingly make their appearance! But
evidently nothing was farther from their minds,
and we rode over the plain, mile after mile, with
hopes which, like the thermometer, were gradually
9 o WIND AND HAIL.
sinking towards zero. As time went on, the
haze which bound the plateau at our approach
solidified itself into an escarpment. In due time
this was reached, and I rode up it, expecting to
find another plain on its summit as usual. Instead,
however, a broken, hilly country appeared in view,
crossed in all directions by ravines. I looked
eagerly about, but still no guanaco. Our line of
advance, meantime, lost its order, owing to the
changed nature of the ground, and frequently I
lost sight of all my companions, as I descended
into a ravine, or rode round the base of some tall
hillock ; but it was never long before I caught a
glimpse of one or other of them again.
The wind got colder and colder, a white cloud
crept up on the horizon, and grew and grew,
sweeping swiftly towards me, till I suddenly
found myself enveloped in a furious hail-storm. I
came to a stand-still, and covered up my head to
protect myself from the hailstones, which were
very large. The squall did not last long, but
when I looked up again I found the whole
country was whitened over, an atmospheric freak
having created a dreary winter landscape in the
middle of summer. Suddenly I started ; close to
me stood, perfectly motionless, and staring me
full in the face, a tall guanaco. I was so startled
A GUANACO AT LAST. 91
and surprised that for the space of a minute I sat
quietly returning his stare. A movement of my
horse broke the spell. The guanaco darted up
the side of a hill like lightning, and pausing a
moment on its summit, disappeared. I mean-
while had unslung my rifle, and was off in pursuit
of him. Instead of climbing the hill, I rode
quicky round its base, and on the other side, as I
had expected, I discovered my friend looking up-
ward, no doubt thinking I should appear by the
same road he had come. I had the selfishness,
though I am sure sportsmen will excuse it, to
wish to kill the first guanaco myself, and I was
therefore by no means displeased to find that my
companions had not as yet perceived us. With
a beating heart I dismounted and walked slowly
towards the guanaco, who, though he saw me
coming, still remained quietly standing. My
weapon was a light rook-rifle, but though an
excellent arm, it did not carry more than 150
yards with precision, and I was now something
over 1 80 yards from my prey. He allowed me
to advance till within the required distance, but
then, to my disgust, just as I was preparing to fire,
leisurely walked on another thirty or forty yards
before he stopped again, watching me the while,
as it seemed with an amused look of impertinence,
92 AN EXCITING RUN.
which aggravated me considerably. I slowly
followed him, vowing to fire the moment I was
within range, whether he moved or not. This
time I was more successful. The guanaco allowed
me to come within about the necessary 150 yards.
" Poor fellow!" I murmured generously, as I
brought my rifle up to my shoulder and took aim
just behind his. Only one step forward to make
quite certain. Alas ! I took it, and down I went
into a hole, which in my eagerness I had not
noticed, falling rather heavily on my face. In a
second I was up again, just in time to see the
guanaco bounding up a far escarpment, taking
with him my chance of becoming the heroine of
the day. There was nothing for it but to walk
back to where I had left my horse, and see what
had become of my companions.
I took the same road the guanaco had taken,
on the remote possibility of falling in with him
again. Riding up the escarpment above referred
to, I came on to a broad plain, and there an ex-
citing chase was going on, in which, as it appeared,
I was condemned to take the part of a spectator
only. At some distance, and going across my
line of sight, was a guanaco running at full speed,
closely followed by a pack of dogs, in whose track,
but some way behind, galloped three horsemen,
AN EXCITING R UN. 93
whom I made out to be my husband, and brother,
and Gregorio. The guanaco at first seemed to be
losing ground, but it was only for an instant ; in
another he bounded away with ease, and it was
apparent that as yet he was only playing with his
pursuers. The pace soon began to tell on the
dogs ; the less speedy were already beginning to
tail off, one of them, probably Gregorio's swift
Pie-de-Plata, being far in advance of its comrades,
and by no means to be shaken off by the guanaco,
who had now given up any playful demonstrations
of superiority, and had settled down to run in
good earnest.
On, on they go quarry, dogs, horsemen, will
soon be out of sight. But what's this ? The
guanaco has stopped ! Only for a moment, though.
But he has swerved to the left, and behind him
a new dog and horseman have appeared on the
scene, emerging, as if by magic, from the bowels
of the earth. The chase is now better under my
view. If some lucky chance would only bring
the guanaco my way ! The fresh dog is evidently
discomforting him, and his having had to swerve
has brought all the other dogs a good bit nearer
to his heels. But on he goes, running bravely,
and making for the escarpment, for in the hilly
country below he knows he is aj; an advantage
94 AN EXCITING RUN.
The dogs seem to be aware of this too, for they re-
double their efforts, a splendid race ensuing. Sud-
denly another horseman appears on the plateau,
and the unfortunate guanaco must again swerve to
the left, a movement which, hurrah ! brings him
almost facing towards where I am standing. That
is to say, he must cross the escarpment at some
point on a line between myself and the new-comer,
the other horsemen, from the manner the race had
been run, forming a circle in his rear, which
debarred his escape in any other direction. See-
ing this, wild with excitement, I dug my spurs
into my horse, and flew along the edge of the
escarpment, the horseman on the other side doing
the same, in order to shut out the guanaco and
throw him back on his foes behind. Seeing his
last chance about to be cut off, he redoubled his
efforts to get through between us. On, on we
strain. Nearer and nearer he gets to the edge of
the plain, and already, with despair, I see that I
shall be too late. But faster even than the swift
guanaco, a gallant blackhound has crept up, and in
another instant, though the former dashes past me
within a yard of my horse's nose and disappears
over the side of the escarpment, the good dog
has already made its spring, and, clinging like grim
death to the guanaco's haunch, vanishes with him.
THE DEATH. 95
After them, in another instant, swept the whole
quarry of dogs, and by the time I reined in, and
got my horse down the steep ravine-side, they
had thrown the guanaco, which Pie-de-Plata had
brought to a standstill below ; and Francisco, the
horseman who had last appeared on the plateau,
and at so opportune a moment, had already given
the coup-de-grace with his knife.
One after another the other hunters gradually
arrived, their horses more or less blown ; and
whilst pipes were lit and flasks produced, we had
leisure to examine this, our first guanaco. Look-
ing at his frame, his long, powerful legs, his deep
chest, and body as fine-drawn almost as a grey-
hound's, we no longer wondered that guanacos
run as swiftly as they do. Indeed, this one would
have laughed at us, had he not been closed in as
he was. The fur of the full-grown guanaco is of
a woolly texture, and in colour of a reddish brown
on the back, the neck, and the quarters ; being
whitish on the belly and the inner sides of the
legs. The head closely resembles that of a camel ;
the eyes, which have a strange look on account of
the peculiar shape of the eye bones, are very large
and beautiful. A fair-sized guanaco weighs from
1 80 to 200 pounds.
Meantime, Gregorio having begun to cut up
96 THE DEATH.
the guanaco, to our chagrin it was discovered to
be mangy a disease very common among these
animals, probably on account of the brackishness of
the water; and the meat being consequently unfit
for food, we abandoned it to the dogs, who now
made the first good meal they had had since we
left Sandy Point. They were soon gorged to such
an extent that they became useless for hunting
purposes, and we had therefore to ride on, now
relying solely on our rifles.
Gregorio had seen a herd of guanacos at the
far end of the plain over which the chase had
taken place, and thither we accordingly rode.
After half an hour's galloping, we reached its
limit, finding below a broad valley broken up into
various depressions and hillocks. At the base of
one of the latter we saw a small herd of guanaco,
within range of which, by dint of careful stalking,
we presently managed to come. Two fortunate
shots brought a couple of their number down, and
luckily both turned out to be quite healthy.
Under the skilful manipulation of Gregorio and
Francisco, in a marvellously short space of time
they were cut up, and the meat having been dis-
tributed among our various saddles, heavily laden,
we turned homewards.
The way back seemed terribly long, now that
HOME. 97
we had no longer the excitement of hunting to
shorten the time ; and it seemed quite incredible
that we had gone the distance we had been, when,
towards sunset, after a cold and weary ride, we at
last stood on the edge of the plain which over-
looked the valley where lay our home for the
nonce.
The evening had turned out fine, the bois-
terous wind which had annoyed us so much in
the daytime had died away, and the sky was now
bright and clear. Through the branches of the
beech trees I could catch a glimpse of our camp,
with its white tents just peeping over the green
bushes, and a thin column of blue smoke rising
up into the air, pleasantly suggestive of warm tea
and other comforts awaiting us. Farther on, in
the long green grass of the valley, which was now
glowing under the last rays of the sun, were our
horses, some grazing, others lying stretched out,
lazily enjoying their day's respite from work,
whilst the colts and fillies, as is their wont at sun-
down, were frisking about and kicking up their
heels in all the exuberance of youth, unconscious
as yet of heavy packs and sharp spurs. What-
ever special character the peaceful scene might
otherwise want was fully supplied by the pic-
turesquely wild appearance of my companions, as,
H
98 HUNGR Y AS HUNTERS.
eschewing contemplation, and anticipating dinner,
they rode quickly ahead towards the camp on
their shaggy, sturdy horses, their bodies muffled
in the graceful guanaco robe, and huge pieces of
red raw meat dangling on either side of their
saddles, followed by the blood-stained hounds,
who seemed thoroughly tired after their hard
day's work.
But whatever country one is in, whatever scenes
one may be among in one's own cosy snuggery
in England, or in the bleak steppes of Patagonia
there is a peculiar sameness in the feeling that
comes over one towards the hours of evening,
and which inevitably calls up the thought, It must
be getting near dinner-time. Yielding to this
admonition, which to-day was by no means less
plain than usual, I quitted my eyrie and rode
down to the camp.
When I got there I found preparations for an
ample meal in full swing. Ingeniously spitted on
a wooden stave, the whole side of a guanaco was
roasting before a blazing fire, and in the pot a
head of the same animal was yielding its sub-
stance towards the production of what I was
assured would turn out an excellent soup. At
dinner-time I was able practically to confirm this
assurance ; a better broth cannot be concocted
" FA T- BEHIND- THE- EYE? 99
than that obtained from such a guanaco head,
with the addition of rice, dried vegetables, chilis,
etc. But, at the risk of incurring the charge of
digressing too much on the subject of eating, I
must pay a tribute to the delicacy of a peculiar
morsel in the guanaco, which we called " Fat-
behind-the-Eye," and which is, in fact, a piece of
fat situated as indicated by its name. The
tongue and the brain are rare tit-bits, but they
must yield in subtle savouriness to the aforesaid
bonne -bouche. Having once tasted it, till the
end of our trip guanaco head formed a standing
item in our daily messes, and whatever other
culinary novelties we discussed, and they were
as numerous as strange, " Fat -behind -the -eye"
always retained its supremacy in our affections as
the ne plus ultra of pampa delicacies.
ioo ELASTIC LEA G UES.
CHAPTER IX.
ELASTIC LEAGUES THE LAGUNA BLANCA AN EARTHQUAKE
OSTRICH-HUNTING.
WE should like to have lingered on in the beech-
wood valley, but the necessity of pushing forward
as quickly as possible was too urgent to allow of
our indulging in our lazy desires, and daybreak
saw our party once more in the saddle.
The country over which we rode this day was
more rugged and hilly than any we had crossed
previously; the sun shone down upon us in all
the intensity of its summer heat, and the glare of
the hot dry ground affected our eyes painfully as
we rode along.
" How far have we still to go ?" was a ques-
tion which was often on our lips, though, from
experience, we might have known that, what-
ever answer we got from the guides, we should be
no wiser than before. They would reply glibly
enough, four or five leagues, as the case might
be, but we had found that their ideas of a league
THE LAGUNA BLANCA. 101
were most elastic, appearing to vary daily, and to
an extent which made it impossible for us to form
any mean average even, to guide us to an approxi-
mate estimation of the value of their assertions.
Thus, a league might mean ten miles to-day, and
to-morrow possibly only one.
At length, as the sun was beginning to sink, a
shout from one of the guides made us glance
wearily up. We found ourselves on the brow of
an escarpment, at the foot of which extended a
far-stretching plain, in the midst of which, shim-
mering like a sheet of silver, lay a broad lake,
called " Laguna Blanca," or the White Lake.
This welcome sight at once revived our droop-
ing spirits, and for the next hour we rode merrily
forward, following Gregorio, who was seeking for
a little ravine, where there was a small freshwater
stream which flowed down towards the lake. We
soon came upon it, and lost no time in jumping
out of the saddle and setting to work with a will,
at the erection of our tents and the preparation
of our evening meal. The latter having been
discussed, we went to bed.
The sun was rather high in the heavens when
I opened my eyes the next morning, and, pulling
aside the flap of the tent, looked out upon the
scene. All our camp was still wrapt in sleep
1 02 AN EARTHQ UAKE.
save I'Aria, who was sitting over the fire smok-
ing his pipe, whilst he watched the kettle boiling,
in placid expectation of his morning coffee. The
plains below were silent; but the air was noisy with
the cries of the flocks of geese and wild-duck, who
were winging their flight from the lake towards
the rich fields of cranberries farther inland. The
sharp quack of the ibis would occasionally startle
me, as a bevy of these birds passed seemingly
just over my head, but, in reality, far up in the air.
From the contemplation of this scene I was
suddenly and rudely awakened. A loud rumbling
sound rose on the air ; and, before I had time to
wonder what it could mean, a heaving of the
ground, resembling a sea-swell, sent me flying on
my back, and, as by magic, the silent camp be-
came alive with shouts of fear and wonder, as
everybody rushed out of the tents in dismay.
The shocks occurred again and again, but each
time weaker, and in about five minutes they had
ceased altogether, but it was some time before we
recovered our equanimity. This was the first
time I had ever experienced an earthquake, and
such a sickly sensation of helplessness as comes
over one during the heaving up and down of the
earth would, I should think, be hard to equal.
Our guides told us that none of them had ever
OSTRICH- HUNTING. 103
felt an earthquake in Patagonia before, nor had
they ever heard of one having taken place.
Later on, on our return to Sandy Point, we
learnt that the earthquake had caused a good deal
of disaster in the colony. All the bottles and
stores in Pedro's shop were thrown from their
shelves and broken, and there were few inhabit-
ants in the colony who did not sustain some
similar loss.
As may be imagined, the earthquake provided
us with matter for conversation for some time,
and in that respect, at least, was a not unwelcome
occurrence.
Breakfast over, it was agreed that we should
separate into two parties, one for the purpose of
ostrich-hunting, whilst the other should devote
its energies to the pursuit of the guanaco. My
husband and Mr. B. preferring the latter chase,
rode off with their rifles, together with Gregorio
and Guillaume, towards the hilly country we had
crossed the day before.
As soon as they were gone my brother and
I, with Fran9ois, started off along a ridge of hills
which exactly faced our camp, and which sloped
down into the plains below. We were followed
by four ostrich hounds, and were mounted on the
best and fleetest horses we could select out of
io 4 OSTRICH-HUNTING.
our tropilla. The little animal that I bestrode
could not have exceeded fifteen hands. He was
a high-spirited little bay with a white blaze down
his face, and three white legs. He would clamber
up precipitous places where the stones and rocks
crumbled and gave way beneath his feet, or
canter down a steep decline, and jump the wide
gullies with the greatest ease. As we galloped
along the smoother ground which intervened
between the hills, and which was deeply under-
mined by hundreds of holes of the "tuca-tuca"
(prairie rat), his activity in avoiding a fall as-
tonished me. My brother was equally well
mounted on a long, low, clever black, who had the
reputation of great speed ; while Frangois rode a
well-shaped brown, with handsome arching neck
and tiny head.
As we rode silently along, with our eyes well
about us, in the hopes of sighting an ostrich,
my horse suddenly shied at something white
lying on the ground at a few paces distant.
Throwing the reins over his head, I dismounted
and walked towards the spot. Amongst some
long grass I discovered a deserted nest of an
ostrich containing ten or eleven eggs, and calling
Frangois to examine them, was greatly chagrined
to find that none of them were fresh. With
THE FIRST OSTRICH. 105
the superstition of an ostrich -hunter Fra^ois
picked up a feather lying close at hand, and
sticking it in his cap, assured us that this was a
good sign, and that it would not be long before
we came across one of these birds.
His prediction was speedily verified, for on
reaching the summit of a little hill, up which we
had slowly and stealthily proceeded, two small
gray objects suddenly struck my eye. I signed
to Frangois and my brother, who where riding
some twenty yards behind me, and putting spurs
to my horse, galloped down the hill towards the
two gray objects I had perceived in the distance.
" Choo ! choo!" shouted Francois, a cry by which
the ostrich -hunters cheer their dogs on, and in-
timate to them the proximity of game. Past me
like lightning the four eager animals rushed, bent
on securing the prey which their quick sight had
already detected.
The ostriches turned one look on their pur-
suers, and the next moment they wheeled round,
and making for the plain, scudded over the ground
at a tremendous pace.
And now, for the first time, I began to ex-
perience all the glorious excitement of an ostrich-
hunt. My little horse, keen as his rider, took the
bit between his teeth, and away we went up and
io6 A STRANGER.
down the hills at a terrific pace. On and on flew
the ostriches, closer and closer crept up " Leona,"
a small, red, half-bred Scotch deerhound, with
" Loca," a wiry black lurcher at her heels, who in
turn was closely followed by "Apiscuna" and
" Sultan." In another moment the little red dog
would be alongside the ostriches. Suddenly,
however, they twisted right and left respectively,
scudding away in opposite directions over the
plain, a feint which of course gave them a great
advantage, as the dogs in their eagerness shot
forward a long way before they were able to stop
themselves. By the time they had done so the
ostriches had got such a start that, seeing pursuit
was useless, we called the dogs back. We were
very much disappointed at our failure, and in no
very pleasant frame of mind turned our horses'
heads in the direction of our camp.
As we rode along we were surprised by the
sudden appearance of a man on horseback, gallop-
ing towards us. He was dressed in a guanaco
robe, and his long black hair floating on the wind,
gave him a very wild look. " An Indian!" I
exclaimed. But Francois shook his head, and
we rode up to meet the stranger. When he got
up to us he shook hands with Francois, whom he
seemed to know, and, without evincing any sign
A STRANGER. 107
of curiosity as regarded ourselves, turned his
horse round, and prepared to accompany us. I
observed that although his face, legs, and hands
were almost as copper-coloured as those of an
Indian, his features were those of a white man.
Frangois presently told me that he was a Chilian
convict, who had deserted from Sandy Point a
good many years ago, and that since then he had
lived among the Indians, adopting their dress
and customs, till he had now become quite one of
them. In reply to my questions it appeared that
he was camping with some Indians on the other
side of the lake. They had been out hunting,
and he was just returning home when he saw us,
and having nothing better to do, thought he
might as well pay a visit to our camp.
We were a good deal chaffed when we got
home on the score of our non- success, my hus-
band and Mr. B. having had a good day's
sport, bringing plenty of guanaco meat back
with them. Over pipes and coffee that night a
serious council of war was held by the whole of
our party, as regards ostrich -hunting for the
morrow.
The Chilian suggested the forming of a circle,
and professed himself willing, in return for our
hospitality, to remain another day and join in the
io8 INDIAJV MODE OF HUNTING.
affair. Forming a circle is the method by which
the Indians nearly always obtain game. It is
formed by lighting fires round a large area of
ground into which the different hunters ride from
all sides. A complete circle of blazing fires is
thus obtained, and any game found therein is
pretty sure to become the prey of the dogs, as no
ostrich or guanaco will face a fire. Wherever
they turn they see before them a column of
smoke, or are met by dogs and horsemen.
Escape becomes almost impossible, and it is not
long before they grow bewildered and are
captured. In anticipation of a hard day's work
on the morrow, we hereupon broke up our council
of war, and turned in at an earlier hour than usual.
Next morning, the horses being all ready, we
lost no time in springing into the saddle, leaving
Storer to take charge of the camp, much to his
alarm, and in spite of his earnest remonstrance.
The poor man vainly protested that, were the
Indians to discover our retreat, he would be per-
fectly powerless to prevent their pillaging the
whole camp, especially as his ignorance of their
" jargon," as he scornfully termed the Tehuelche
language, would place him in a most helpless
position. Regardless of his arguments and im-
ploring looks we rode away, determining to risk
MAKING THE CIRCLE. 109
the improbable intrusion of the Indians, whose
camp lay at least twenty miles distant from our
own. For about half an hour we followed Gre-
gorio and the Chilian along a line of broken
hillocks, after which, calling a halt, we sent for-
ward Guillaume and I' Aria to commence the first
and most distant proceedings of the circle. They
departed at a brisk canter, and it was not long
before several rising columns of smoke testified
that they were already busily engaged. The
next to compose the centre circle were my hus-
band, Fran9ois, and Mr. B., shortly after sup-
ported on the right by the Chilian and my brother.
Immediately on their left Gregorio and myself
commenced operations, and soon a distinct circle
of fires might be seen springing quickly up from
all points. I could not help being greatly im-
pressed with the novel sight now before me.
From the high plain we were on I could look
over miles and miles of untrodden desert land,
where countless herds of guanaco were roaming
in peaceful lazy ease. In the distance towered
the peaks of the Andes, wrapped in their cloak
of mystery, lonely and unexplored. The huge
columns of smoke and the lurid flames of the
circle-fires lent a wild appearance to the thrilling
scene, to which the frightened knots of guanacos,
no THE CHASE.
which were hurrying to escape from the circle
and the eager galloping horsemen, lent additional
active animation.
For some time Gregorio and I rode slowly
and silently on our way, when a sudden un-
expected bound which my horse gave all but
unseated me. " Avestruz ! Avestruz!" shouted
Gregorio, and turned his horse with a quick
movement. " Choo ! choo ! Plata!" I cry to
the dog who followed at my horse's heels, as
a fine male ostrich scudded away towards the
hills we had just left with the speed of light-
ning. Plata has sighted him, and is straining
every limb to reach the terrified bird. He is
a plucky dog and a fleet one, but it will take
him all his time to come alongside that great
raking ostrich as he strides away in all the con-
scious pride of his strength and speed. " We
shall lose him ! " I cry, half mad with excitement,
spurring my horse, who is beginning to gasp
and falter as the hill up which we are struggling
grows steeper and steeper. But the ostrich
suddenly doubles to the left, and commences a
hurried descent. The cause is soon explained,
for in the direction towards which he has been
making a great cloud of smoke rises menacingly
in his path, and, baulked of the refuge he had
AN EXCITING MOMENT. 1 1 1
hoped to find amidst the hills, the great bird
is forced to alter his course, and make swiftly
for the plains below. But swiftly as he flies
along, so does Plata, who finds a down-hill race
much more suited to his splendid shbulders and
rare stride. Foot by foot he lessens the dis-
tance that separates him from his prey, and
gets nearer and nearer to the fast sinking, fast
tiring bird. Away we go, helter-skelter down the
hill, unchecked and undefeated by the numerous
obstacles that obstruct the way. Plata is alongside
the ostrich, and gathers himself for a spring at the
bird's throat. " He has him, he has him!" I
shout to Gregorio, who does not reply, but urges
his horse on with whip and spur. " Has he got
him, though ?" Yes no the ostrich with a
rapid twist has shot some thirty yards ahead of
his enemy, and whirling round, makes for the hills
once more. And now begins the struggle for
victory. The ostrich has decidedly the best of it,
for Plata, though he struggles gamely, does not
like the uphill work, and at every stride loses
ground. There is another fire on the hill above,
but it lies too much to the left to attract the bird's
attention, who has evidently a safe line of escape
in view in that direction. On, on we press ; on,
on flies the ostrich ; bravely and gamely struggles
ii2 A SPILL.
in its wake poor Plata. " Can he stay ? " I cry to
Gregorio, who smiles and nods his head. He is
right, the dog can stay, for hardly have the words
left my lips when, with a tremendous effort, he puts
on a spurt, and races up alongside the ostrich.
Once more the bird points for the plain ; he is
beginning to falter, but he is great and strong, and
is not beaten yet. It will take all Plata's time and
cunning to pull that magnificent bird to the ground,
and it will be a long fierce struggle ere the gallant
creature yields up his life. Unconscious of any-
thing but the exciting chase before me, I am
suddenly disagreeably reminded that there is such
a thing as caution, and necessity to look where
you are going to, for, putting his foot in an un-
usually deep tuca-tuca hole, my little horse comes
with a crash upon his head, and turns completely
over on his back, burying me beneath him in a
hopeless muddle. Fortunately, beyond a shaking,
I am unhurt, and remounting, endeavour to rejoin
the now somewhat distant chase. The ostrich,
Gregorio, and the dog have reached the plain, and
as I gallop quickly down the hill I can see that
the bird has begun doubling. This is a sure sign
of fatigue, and shows that the ostrich's strength is
beginning to fail him. Nevertheless it is a matter
of no small difficulty for one dog to secure his
THE DEATH. 113
prey, even at this juncture, as he cannot turn and
twist about as rapidly as the ostrich. At each
double the bird shoots far ahead of his pursuer,
and gains a considerable advantage. Away across
the plain the two animals fly, whilst I and Gregorio
press eagerly in their wake. The excitement
grows every moment more intense, and I watch
the close struggle going on with the keenest
interest. Suddenly the stride of the bird grows
slower, his doubles become more frequent, showers
of feathers fly in every direction as Plata seizes
him by the tail, which comes away in his mouth.
In another moment the dog has him by the throat,
and for a few minutes nothing can be distinguished
but a gray struggling heap. Then Gregorio
dashes forward and throws himself off his horse,
breaks the bird's neck, and when I arrive upon
the scene the struggle is over. The run had
lasted for twenty-five minutes.
Our dogs and horses were in a most pitiable
state. Poor Plata lay stretched on the ground
with his tongue, hot and fiery, lolling out of his
mouth, and his sides going at a hundred miles
an hour. The horses, with their heads drooped
till they almost touched the ground, and their
bodies streaming with perspiration, presented a
most pitiable sight, and while Gregorio disem-
i
I
114 HOME AGAIN.
bowelled and fastened the ostrich together, I
loosened their girths, and led them to a pool
hard by to drink. At length they became more
comfortable, and as soon as they seemed in a
fit state to go on, Gregorio and I lifted the huge
bird on to his horse, and tied it across the
animal's withers. Encumbered thus, Gregorio
turned to depart in the direction of the camp,
followed by Plata, while I went in an op-
posite direction in search of my companions
down in the plain. It was not long before I dis-
tinguished in the far distance an ostrich coming
straight towards me, closely followed by a dog and
two horsemen. Galloping to meet them, I was
the means of turning the bird into " Peache's "
jaws, for such was the name of I'Aria's dog. The
two horsemen turned out to be the old fellow in
question and my brother, who arrived, hot and
full of excitement, on the scene just as I was
throwing myself from my horse to prevent Peache
from tearing the bird to pieces. Leaving I' Aria
to complete the hunter's work, my brother and I
rode slowly back towards our camp, discussing the
merits of our horses, dogs, and the stamina of the
two ostriches we had slain. So engrossed were
we that we could hardly believe our eyes when we
came suddenly in full view of our snug little
OSTRICH ME A T. 115
retreat, but, nevertheless, we were very glad to
dismount and refresh ourselves with the hot
coffee which we found old Storer had ready
waiting".
One by one the other hunters dropped in.
They had all been successful, with the exception
of Guillaume ; and as we stood grouped round
the five large ostriches lying on the ground, we
congratulated ourselves on our good fortune, and
on the excellent sport we had had. At dinner
we passed judgment on ostrich -meat, which we
now really tasted for the first time, for what we
had obtained from the Indian camp had been dry
and unpalatable. We thought it excellent ; the
breast and wings are particularly good ; the latter
much resemble pheasant.
1 1 6 DEPARTURE FROM LA G UNA BLANC A.
CHAPTER X.
DEPARTURE FROM LACUNA BLANCA A WILD -CAT IBIS SOUP
A FERTILE CANADON INDIAN LAW AND EQUITY OUR
FIRST PUMA COWARDICE OF THE PUMA DISCOMFORTS
OF A WET NIGHT A MYSTERIOUS DISH A GOOD RUN.
AFTER a four days' stay at Laguna Blanca, our
horses being sufficiently rested, we resolved to
continue our journey. I had got to feel quite at
home in the little ravine where our camp had been
pitched, and notwithstanding my anxiety to push
forward and get over the monotony of the plains
as soon as possible, in leaving it felt just a slight
touch of regret. Each bush I passed recalled
some trivial incident of our stay, and came in for
a share of the good-bye I inwardly vouchsafed to
all my late surroundings.
Whilst we were trotting along I noticed that
one of the brood-mares was continually looking
anxiously back, and on counting the foals I found
that one was missing. I' Aria, whose attention I
drew to this fact, immediately returned to our camp
A WILD-CAT. 117
to look for the lost animal, which he thought had
probably been left behind in a ravine where the
horses had been in the habit of grazing. In the
meantime we rode on, presently passing the site of
the camp of the Indians, the smoke of whose fires
we had noticed from the Laguna Blanca. They
themselves had left it the day before, and were
now on the march southwards, as indicated by
several columns of smoke which we could see on
the distant skyline, it being their habit, when on
the march, to light fires at intervals.
Shortly after passing the Indian camp we
were startled by a series of howls, given vent to
by Guillaume's dog, " Negro," whom we descried
struggling with some animal in the long grass.
In a second he was joined by the other dogs, and
by the time we got up we found them all engaged
in mortal combat with a huge wild-cat, which had
already punished Negro most severely, and was
defending itself fiercely against the united on-
slaught of its enemies. Two revolver shots were
fired at it without effect, but presently Gregorio
managed to kill it with a blow from the "bolas." Up
to its last gasp it spat and clawed with undaunted
fury, and nearly all the dogs were more or less
badly wounded; poor " Negro" in particular, being
severely gashed and torn. Whilst we washed the
n8 ISIS SOUP.
dogs in a pool of water hard by, Gregorio skinned
the wild-cat, and then made a search for its com-
panion, which during the fray some one had
observed making good its retreat. However, his
search was fruitless, and we rode forward again,
the incident just related furnishing us with a topic
for conversation wherewith to beguile the next
hour or so. I' Aria meanwhile rejoined us, but
although he had thoroughly searched all the
country in the vicinity of our late camp, he had
been unable to find any traces of the missing foal,
which had doubtless fallen a prey to some puma.
Towards evening we arrived at a large fresh-
water lake called Laguna Larga, by the shores of
which we set up our tents. My husband, going
out with his gun, managed to kill an ibis, the first
any of us had shot, although we had often tried to
do so whilst at Laguna Blanca, being aware that
this bird makes excellent soup. This one was
put in the pot, and though its meat proved rather
tough, the broth it gave was all that could be
desired. Laguna Larga, like nearly all the lakes
we saw in Patagonia, swarmed with wild-fowl, and
amongst other birds we observed two flamingoes,
whose gorgeous red plumage excited our covetous-
ness, and an elaborate stalking-party was organised
with the object of securing one of them. However,
A FERTILE CANADON. 119
they never gave us a chance, and sailed majesti-
cally away at the first approach of danger.
Our road the next day lay for the most part
along a fertile valley, down the middle of which
flowed a narrow but exceedingly deep stream. The
breadth of this " canadon " was about five miles,
and we followed its windings for about twenty
miles. Its whole length, for it doubtless stretched
down to the sea-coast, must have been about 150
miles. The grass was tall and green, in many
places reaching up to our horses' bellies. As
equally fertile valleys are to be found intersecting
the barren plains in all directions, an enormous
number of cattle and sheep might be reared in
this country were it not for the heavy snows in
winter and the floods in spring, which latter
immerse all these valleys for a considerable period,
during which the animals would have to seek sus-
tenance on the plains, where, it is needless to
say, they would not find it.
As we emerged from the valley on to the
plains, an animal was descried on the sky-line,
which at first we took for a gigantic guanaco,
but which presently resolved itself into a horse.
Gregorio having seen it first had become ipso
facto, in accordance with the unwritten law of the
pampas, its owner, that is to say, should it be
1 20 INDIAN LA W AND EQUITY.
caught ; so, taking I' Aria with him, he rode off to
the left, with the intention of getting behind his
prospective property and driving it towards our
troop. This he accomplished without difficulty.
The horse stood staring at our advancing caval-
cade for some time, and then came galloping
towards us with loud neighs of greeting, spreading
consternation among our troop, who neighed and
snorted in return, apparently by no means pleased
at the si^ht of the new-comer. Matters were
<_>
peaceably arranged, however, and after some
further slight demonstrations, he was admitted into
the troop, evidently much pleased to find himself
among his own kind again. According to Gre-
gorio, he had belonged to some Indian, who had
probably lost him on the march. I asked Gregorio
whether the owner might claim the horse again,
and he told me that the law among Indians is
that the finder receives about one-third of the
value of the object found from the owner. Some
difficulty generally arises in these cases as to the
value of the find, as the parties naturally over-
estimate and depreciate it as suits their respective
interests ; this being especially the case when the
bargain is debated between an Indian and a white
man. Amongst themselves the Indians are re-
markably fair in their dealings, but as they know
O UR FIRST PUMA. 1 2 1
that the traders cheat them whenever they can,
they recognise quite another standard of morality
in their dealings with the latter.
As we were approaching the spot where we
intended camping, one of the mules, which was
heading the troop, suddenly turned and dashed
away, and in another instant the whole troop broke
up and dispersed, galloping in all directions.
What was the cause of this stampede ? We
pressed quickly forward, but nothing stirred in the
long grass, though we scoured everywhere. We
were baffled for a minute. " It's a puma some-
where," said Gregorio. The words were hardly
out of his mouth when a loud view-holloa rent the
air. " There he goes there he goes ! " shouted
two or three of our party in chorus, and sure
enough, there he was going a mighty yellow
puma slouching swiftly away at some distance to
our left, with my brother following close on his
track. For us all to gallop after and come up
within ten yards of the puma was the work of a
moment, but to get nearer than ten yards or so
was quite another matter, as our horses were
quivering with fright, and with difficulty were kept
from turning tail and bolting from the dread
presence of their mortal enemy. Meanwhile the
puma, finding himself surrounded, lay sullenly
122 COWARDICE OF THE PUMA.
down, eyeing us with dogged hate, and scarcely
seeming to heed the presence of the dogs, who
were growling furiously at him at a respectful
distance from his claws. Finding it useless to try
to approach on horseback, my brother dismounted,
and a rifle being at hand, took steady aim at the
crouching animal and fired. Simultaneous with
the report, with outstretched paws and a deep
growl, the puma sprang forward, and then fell
heavily to the ground, whilst our horses, becoming
wholly unmanageable, reared up and fairly bolted.
When we again got control of them, nothing would
induce them to return to the spot where the now
lifeless body of the puma lay, and we had to dis-
mount and walk there. Very fierce and dangerous
it looked ; and at the sight of its ponderous paws
with their sharp talons and its cruel white teeth,
we wondered whether, if it knew its own powers,
the puma would be such a cowardly animal as it is.
They scarcely ever attack man. even when brought
to bay, but lie down and doggedly meet their fate,
though they can kill a full-grown guanaco with
one blow of the paw, and pull down a horse with
similar ease. The Indians affirm that the puma
only bears young ones in two years, but whether
this be true or not I do not know. They certainly
seem very scarce, comparatively, a circumstance
DISCOMFORTS OF A WET NIGHT. 123
which may be due to this peculiarity, coupled with
the fact that the Indians and traders destroy a
good number annually.
The excitement attendant on the puma's
demise being over, and our horses having been
driven together again, we made for our intended
camping place. We lodged that night in the
valley I have described above, and here, for the
first time since we reached the plains, the night
was wet. It is by no means agreeable to hear
rain pattering down on the canvas of one's tent,
especially when one has doubts as to the water-
proof capabilities of the canvas, and as yet we
had had no opportunity of testing ours. Fortu-
nately, on this occasion the rain did not last long,
and, excepting a general sense of dampness, we
experienced no further inconvenience. Continuing
our journey, on the following day we reached the
River Gallegos, which we forded at a spot called
" Paso de los Morros ;" these Morros being two
conically shaped hills of equal height, which form
a striking landmark, being conspicuous at a con-
siderable distance. The river at the time was
very low ; but owing to the inequality of its bed
and the rapidity of the current, some care had to
be taken in crossing the ford for fear any of the
packhorses should come to grief. We passed
124 A MYSTERIOUS DISH.
without any accident, however, and pitched our
camp near the bank, under shelter of a snug little
clump of beech trees. We liked the place so
much that we resolved to pass a couple of days
there, especially as the packhorses required a rest
after the long march from Laguna Blanca.
The first day we dawdled pleasantly away in
all kinds of useful occupations, such as cleaning
guns, writing up journals, etc., though I am
bound to say that the best part of the time was
given up to cooking experiments, my brother
and Mr. B. both being anxious to prove their
respective superiority in the culinary department.
Much amusement was afforded us by a mysterious
dish which my brother passed the whole afternoon
in elaborating, and which, if his own glowing
anticipations had been verified, would certainly
have proved a triumph of skill. The care he
devoted to the preparation of his dish, and the
impressive secrecy with which he conducted his
operations, led us into the firm belief that a most
agreeable surprise was in store for us. But when
dinner-time came, and soup and joint had been
hurriedly got through in order to enable us to do
all the more justice to his effort, the surprise for
surprise it was turned out to be a very unpleasant
one ; the " plat " on which so much care had been
A GOOD RUN. 125
bestowed proving to be a homely though curious
concoction of rice, preserved milk, and brown
sugar, with a decided taste of burn ; and after
swallowing a few spoonfuls, even its concoctor had
to avow, with a grimace, that his exertions had
resulted in a failure. My brother having thus
signally proved his incapacity for occupying the
high office of cook, we for the future left the
kitchen department to Francisco's supervision,
and very well we fared at his hands.
The next day was spent in ostrich-hunting.
We made two or three circles, but game seemed
very scarce, and we were unable to entrap a single
ostrich. We were going home towards evening,
rather disconsolately, when some one observed an
ostrich running straight towards us, apparently
with the express intention of obliging us, by allow-
ing himself to be killed. But as we started into
a gallop to meet him half-way, he changed his
mind, and darted off sideways, our whole party
following. The dogs unfortunately, as often
happens when they are wanted, had fallen behind,
and a depression in the plain hid us from their
view. It seemed rather a forlorn chase, therefore,
as our tired horses were no match for the ostrich,
who drew away at every stride. To our surprise,
however, he suddenly began to " double," and we
126 A GOOD RUN.
saw that he was being hard pressed by one of
Guillaume's dogs, from which he had evidently
been escaping when he met us. With fresh zest
we pushed forward, spreading out in a semicircle,
so as to be able to turn the ostrich back to the
dog should he double round our way. An excit-
ing chase ensued. The dog, a clever brute, did
its utmost to make the ostrich double towards us,
but without success, and the speed at which they
were both going prevented us from getting any
nearer. The dog was tiring, but he held out
stoutly, double after double slowly exhausting him.
At last, overshooting himself in an attempt to stop
short, he turned a complete somersault, and the
ostrich, profiting by the moment's respite, literally
set all sail and skimmed away, with a strong wind
in his favour. " He is lost !" shouted Francisco,
reining in. " No, no the river, the river!" cried
Gregorio, spurring the harder, and away we went
after him, and right enough, there was the river
glittering before us, with the ostrich not fifty
yards from the bank, and, hurrah ! our whole
pack of dogs close on his heels. He must take
the water, or he is ours. In another second he
reaches the bank, and pauses. He is in ! No
his heart has failed him, and with an ominous
droop of his wings, but with a tremendous spurt
A GOOD RUN. 127
he has darted off again, with not five yards
between him and the straining dogs. On, on we
go. The ostrich gains ground ; ah, that treach-
erous bend of the river ! It forces him to swerve
round, and in a second he is met by Gregorio.
A dexterous double rids him of his new enemy,
and with a last effort he shoots forward again.
But the circle closes, the shouts of the horsemen
on all sides bewilder him, he hesitates a second,
but in that second the dogs are upon him, and the
next he lies a struggling, quivering mass of feathers.
Horses, dogs, and men we are all panting and
breathless. The dogs, so hot had been the pace,
were too blown to move; and even when Francisco
began to cut up the bird, this proceeding, usually
of such interest to them on account of the savoury
perquisites which fell to their share, scarcely ex-
cited their languid attention.
We were rather tired when we got home, and
after dinner, the run having been most minutely
discussed in all its bearings, we were all glad to
get to bed.
i28 A NUMEROUS GUANACO HERD.
CHAPTER XL
A NUMEROUS GUANACO HERD A PAMPA HERMIT I'ARIA AGAIN
LOSES THE WAY CHORLITOS A NEW EMOTION A MOON
RAINBOW WEATHER WISDOM OPTIMIST AND PESSIMIST
WILD-FOWL ABUNDANT BAD LUCK.
THE next day found us once more in the saddle,
jogging along over the plains with the hopes of a
speedy arrival at the Cordilleras to cheer us, under
the depression of spirits which the dreary mono-
tony of the country could not fail to produce. The
character of the landscape was what we had been
accustomed to since leaving Cabo Negro, being
in this region, if anything, possibly more barren
than usual.
This day's ride was memorable for the im-
mense number of guanacos which covered the
plains in all directions. On arriving at a broad
depression we were suprised by the sight of a
herd of these animals, which could not have
numbered less than five thousand. This enor-
mous living mass defiled past us up the side and
A NUMEROUS GUANACO HERD. 129
over the brow of an escarpment which bound the
depression referred to, occupying a space of time
of about ten minutes although they were going
at a very quick pace and once or twice before
the day was over we met an equally numerous
herd. How such an extraordinary number of
animals can find subsistence on the barren plains,
which they even seem to prefer to the grassy
ravines, is a matter difficult of explanation.
Certain it is that the withered pampa grass must
contain great nourishing properties, as the guan-
acos thrive and grow very fat on it. Although
they are generally rather shy, we passed one herd
composed of some unusually tame animals. As
we approached them, instead of running away,
the whole herd came slowly trotting towards us,
staring at us with naive unconcern, which showed
that they were innocent of the chase. As it
chanced, we had plenty of meat, so we left them
unmolested. It was not often that we found them
so tame, especially when we happened to be short
of meat ; in such cases, with the usual perverse-
ness of things, they would scarcely allow one to
approach within rifle-range.
As we went on we observed a column of
smoke to the westward, which Gregorio judged to
proceed from some fire near the Cordilleras ; and
K
130 A PAMPA HERMIT.
from his account it marked the camp of an eccen-
tric Englishman, named Greenwood, who, it
appears, particularly affects that region, and
who scrupulously avoids contact with his fellow-
creatures, scarcely ever coming down to Sandy
Point. In fact, according to Gregorio, he seemed
to live the life of a hermit. He had renounced
the world and its vanities, even to the extent of
disdaining the ordinary rough comforts of the
other inhabitants of the pampa. Clothed in the
most primitive fashion, he roams along the slopes
of the Cordilleras, and rather than make a trip to
the colony to lay in a store of provisions, passes a
whole year on a diet of ostrich and guanaco meat,
pure and simple.
I was rather interested in this species of Wild
Man of the Woods, and kept a sharp look out as
we journeyed through that region in the hopes of
seeing him. But, if near us at any time and of
course our fires, had he chosen to come, gave
sufficient indication of our whereabouts he did
not relax his rule of exclusiveness in our favour,
and I, consequently, never had an opportunity of
making his acquaintance.
During the march we started up a male ostrich,
which had about forty young ones under its care.
Though we called our dogs back, nothing could
PARIA AGAIN LOSES THE WAY. 131
restrain them, and they gave chase, killing one of
the small ostriches before we could get up to them ;
the male bird and the others escaped. The flesh
of the young ostrich is not very palatable, so we
left the bird, taking only its legs, which make
very nice handles for umbrellas and whips. On
this day I' Aria again distinguished himself by
losing the way, he having been entrusted by the
other guides with the leadership on this occasion,
as he was supposed to be better acquainted than
any one with this particular region.
For quite two hours we followed him in all
directions through an extensive beechwood thicket,
in search of the springs we were to camp by
that night ; and when they were at last found, it
was by Gregorio, and in quite another direction
than the one in which I' Aria, with his usual
pertinacious confidence, was taking us. He came
in for a good deal of abuse from his colleagues,
and a fair share of black looks from us, all of
which he bore with the cheerful indifference which
characterised him under all circumstances.
The present was to be our last camp among
beeches, as we had now to strike across a perfectly
woodless region, on our way to the point at which
we intended entering the Cordilleras. These occa-
sional patches of beeches are only to be found
i 3 2 . CHORLITOS.
in the vicinity of the mountains ; in the plains that
stretch down to the coast nothing is to be met
with in the way of fuel but " berberis " and a few
other scrubby kinds of bushes. We therefore
made the most of our present abundance of wood,
and revelled in huge fires, in order to lay in a
store of warm memories at least to carry with us
into the bleak region we were about to enter. At
dinner this day we tasted a novelty in the way of
fowl, of such excellence that I cannot let the
occasion pass without expatiating for a moment
on its merits. In the daytime we had met with
large flights of a bird which the natives call
" chorlito," or " batatu," in species something
between a golden plover and a woodcock. These
birds come down to Patagonia in incredible
numbers at this season, to feast on the ripe cran-
berries which grow everywhere in profusion, and
on which the ostriches, ibis, and wild geese all
feed and thrive. We had shot some of these
" chorlitos," and they had been roasted for dinner
on the spit, along with some snipe and wild duck
we had brought with us from Gallegos. At din-
ner, however, they were at first rather neglected,
as we had got rather tired of birds, having had
so much of them at Laguna Blanca. Presently,
however, dinner being finished, some one of our
A NEW EMOTION. 133
party, in a spirit of careless curiosity rather than
from any desire to satisfy an already satiated
appetite, pulled one of these chorlitos off the spit,
and with a half-deprecating air took a bite of it.
But when he had done so, the sudden alteration
in his bearing from apathy to activity was a sight
to see. The expression on his face, till then one
of weary indifference, gave way to a look of
intense astonishment, which finally became one
of placid delight, as bit by bit the chorlito dis-
appeared down his throat. Though he did not
speak, his silent action spoke volumes of eloquent
recommendation, and, as may be imagined, we
were soon all engaged in eating chorlitos ; for a
time no sound being heard but the smacking of
lips, the crunching of bones, and occasionally such
exclamations as " Stunning ! " " By Jove ! " " Deli-
cious ! " etc. etc. The fact is, we had discovered
what some Persian king offered half his kingdom
for a new emotion for so seductively succulent,
so exquisitely flavoured, so far beyond anything
the gourmet might dream of in the sublimest
flight of his imagination, is the flesh of the cran-
berry-fed chorlito, that the sensation it produces
on the palate when tasted for the first time may,
without hyperbole, be described as rising to the
dignity of an emotion.
134 WE A THER- WISDOM.
Unfortunately, as we travelled northward we
seemed to leave the region of these birds, and
only on this and two other occasions were we
able to feast upon them.
We witnessed a phenomenon that night in the
shape of a moon rainbow, and many were the
conjectures as to whether it presaged good or
bad weather. Rain is the one thing above all
others calculated to make an open-air life un-
pleasant, and a fear of it being constantly present
to our minds, nearly every evening meteorological
speculations formed a staple topic of conversation
for the whole camp. A great amount of weather
wisdom was developed among us, and very soon
a party spirit was imported into the question,
our camp splitting into two sections Optimists
and Pessimists.. Just before bedtime the sky
would be conned, and the various weather indi-
cations eagerly discussed, often with some heat ;
and it was amusing to see how frequently the
optimists would enlist as arguments in favour of
their prophecies of fine weather, the very same
phenomena of cloud or temperature on which,
on the other hand, the pessimists grounded their
equally confident prognostications of rain. On
occasions when these discussions had been car-
ried on with more than usual earnestness, should
OPTIMIST AND PESSIMIST. 135
the rain suddenly begin to patter down on the
tents in the middle of the night, one might often
hear conversations like the following :
Pessimist (in tone of triumph, evidently pleased
that it was raining, as his antagonist was thereby
confounded). " Well ! who was right about the
rain ? I told you it was sure to come !"
Optimist (cheerily, and half implying that he
believes it isn't raining at all). " It is not raining.
Well, a drop or two, perhaps, but that's nothing ;
it will soon be over."
Pessimist (fervently praying that it may rain
cats and dogs for the next twelve hours). " You
will think it's something though, when you are
swamped. (Confidently) It's bound to rain till
morning."
Optimist (scornfully). " Rain till morning !
Stuff! Why, it never rains long with a full moon"
(or no moon, as may suit the case).
Pessimist (derisively). " That's exactly when
it does rain. Didn't you know that ?"
Optimist (pertinaciously). " Why, only yester-
day you said yourself that one might be certain
it would not rain long with a full moon, so there ! "
Pessimist (conveniently forgetful). " I'm sure
I never said anything of the kind."
Optimist gives vent to a sleepy but uncompli-
136 WILD- FOWL ABUNDANT.
mentary ejaculation against people generally who
don't know what they are talking about.
Pessimist retorts with drowsy ditto, where-
upon follows silence, or silence broken by snores.
On this particular evening the halo was
naturally a strong feature in the discussion, and
much ingenious special pleading was employed on
both sides to prove that its presence was an
infallible indication of rain or no rain. This time
the optimists gained a signal victory, as the night
was fine throughout.
The next day was spent in shooting wild-fowl
down by a big lake which lay about a couple of
miles distant from the camp. I shot a great many
lovely specimens of water-fowl, the like of which
I had never seen before, and loaded my horse
with a great quantity of geese, duck, and plover.
Riding home quietly after my day's sport I
started up a big ostrich, who rose from the
ground not more than a couple of yards distant.
How I longed for one of the greyhounds, and
shouted loudly to Francois, whom I could descry
in camp idly doing nothing, but he could not or
would not hear. Galloping towards him, I hastily
explained in which direction the ostrich had dis-
appeared, and mounting his horse he went off
in pursuit. An hour later he returned empty-
BAD LUCK. 137
handed. He had come across the ostrich and
given chase, but the bird, taking to the beech
woods, had disappeared therein, closely followed
by the dogs. After a long and fruitless search
for both, he had been obliged to return without
his dogs to the camp. Doubtless, as he observed,
they had managed to kill their prey, and were
even then indulging in a heavy feed. His words
were verified when, later on, the animals returned,
presenting an undeniable appearance of having
partaken of a large repast. Gregorio had been
absent all day in search of guanaco, but as he
had gone on foot and taken no dogs with him, he
had been unable to secure the one or two which
he had managed to wound. So, altogether, our
attempts in the chase did not on this occasion
flourish.
138 A. MONOTONO US RIDE.
CHAPTER XII.
A MONOTONOUS RIDE A DREARY LANDSCAPE SHORT FUEL
RATIONS THE CORDILLERAS FEATURES OF PATAGONIAN
SCENERY HEAT AND GNATS A PUMA AGAIN " THE RAIN
is NEVER WEARY" DAMPNESS, HUNGER, GLOOM I'ARIA
TO THE RESCUE HIS INGENUITY.
AFTER another day's sojourn at this encampment
we resumed our journey. We took a good supply
of fuel with us, as we were now entering on the
barren, woodless region, during our transit over
which we should have to rely solely on the pro-
vision we now made.
Leaving the beechwood behind us we rode up
on to a plain, on whose edge we could distinguish
what appeared to be a little black cloud. In
reality it was a peak, or rather clump of peaks of
the Cordilleras, at the foot of which we were one
day to camp, and towards which for the next few
days we directed our horses' heads.
This day's ride, and it was a long one, was by
far more monotonous and dreary than any of the
preceding ones. The immense plateau over
A DREAR Y LANDSCAPE. 139
which we rode for six or seven hours was remark-
able for its gloom and barrenness, even in a region
where all is sterility and dreariness. There was
no sun, and the sky, lowering and dark, formed a
fit counterpart to the plain, which stretched flatly
away to the indistinct horizon, gray, mournful,
and silent.
We could not help being affected by the
aspect of the scenery around us, and I do not
remember ever to have felt anything to equal the
depression of spirits to which I, in common with
all our party, fell a prey, and to whose influence
even the guides succumbed.
For once they drove the troop along without
enlivening their work with the customary cheery
cries of " legua ! legua! Mula ! Mula!" etc.,
and the very bells of the Madrinas seemed to
have a muffled, solemn sound, very unlike their
usual lively jingle.
A single incident occurred during that day's
march. A little guanaco, which had lost its
mother somehow, seeing us coming, instead of
running away, trotted trustingly towards us.
Unfortunately our bloodthirsty dogs dashed out
and threw it before we could get up to stop them.
The poor thing got up again, however, and at
first did not seem much hurt. It was the sweetest
140 SHORT FUEL RATIONS.
little creature imaginable, with soft silky fur, and
bright, gentle eyes, and it thrust its nose against
my cheek in a caressing manner, without the
least sign of fear. I determined to carry it with
me, in hopes that as it got bigger it would learn
to keep with our troop, especially as the mare
who had lost her filly at Laguna Blanca would
have made an excellent foster-mother for it. But
I hardly formed the idea when the little guanaco
began to stagger about, and it became evident
that it must have received some bite from the
dogs which we had not noticed. On examining
it this proved to be the case ; indeed, in a few
minutes its eyes glazed, and to my grief in a very
short time it died, apparently without suffering.
I would have given anything that it could have
lived, as I am sure it would have become attached
to me, and finally have found its way to England
with us. Tame guanacos are often kept at Sandy
Point, and their gentle ways and amiable disposi-
tions make them charming pets.
We were thoroughly tired of our dull march
when we at last arrived at a ravine where there
were a few pools of water, and where we camped
for the night. As we were on short fuel rations,
the fire was allowed to go out directly after dinner,
and we went to bed, now the only warm place.
SHORT FUEL RATIONS. 141
Off again the next day, the clump of peaks
mentioned above growing more distinct, but still
terribly far, and no wood to be got till we reached
them. Plains as usual studded with guanacos,
but having no time to go out with our rifles, we
had to confine ourselves to ostrich meat. Of
these birds there was an abundance, and many an
exciting run we had pursuing them. Wild-fowl
were numerous too, but having eaten every imagin-
able species geese, duck, teal, widgeon, snipe,
Barbary duck, we were quite tired of them.
After another long march we camped in an
open shelterless ravine, and then again pushed
hurriedly on, our stock of fuel getting ominously
low, towards the tantalising clump of peaks, which
at the end of a long day's ride scarcely seemed to
come any nearer. They were now beginning to
disappear, as we descended into an immense basin
which lay between us and them, and whose farther
end was bound by a succession of plateaus, rising
abruptly one over the other as it appeared to us,
though, when we ultimately came up to them, we
found the graduating ascent almost imperceptible.
After camping one night in a most disagree-
able sandy region, where our food and clothes and
furs all got impregnated with grit and dust, and
where we burned our last stick, we again pushed
142 THE CORDILLERAS.
on, with the unpleasant knowledge that that night
we should possibly have to camp without a fire to
warm ourselves and cook our food. The basin
we were now crossing seemed interminable. We
were to camp that night at the foot of the escarp-
ment which bound its farther end, whence to the
mountains was only one day's march. We were
now out of sight of the latter again, but we were
cheered by the comforting consciousness that
each step was bringing us nearer to them.
Just as it was getting dark, after a weary day's
ride, we reached a brawling mountain - stream,
which swept along the base of an escarpment,
and which we hailed as the first sign that we were
at last approaching the Cordilleras. Fording it
we pitched our camp in the long green grass, just
under shelter of the escarpment. But before
unsaddling, eager to see how near we had come
to the clump of peaks which had so long been be-
fore our eyes, we rode up the escarpment, from
the top of which we hoped to get a good view of
the country westward.
Our expectations were not disappointed.
There, seemingly not a mile away, rose up, com-
pact and dark, not the huddled clump of peaks we
had seen two days ago, but a mighty mountain
chain, which lost itself westward in the gathering
FEATURES OF PATAGONIAN SCENERY. 143
dusk of evening standing like a mysterious barrier
between the strange country we had just crossed
and a possibly still stranger country beyond.
The sun had long set, and the base of the moun-
tains was wrapped in darkness, but their jagged
fantastically - shaped crests stood clearly defined
against the light which still glimmered in the sky,
and here and there a snow-covered peak, higher
than its comrades, still retained a faint roseate glow,
which contrasted strangely with the gray gloom
of all below.
For a long time after complete darkness had
fallen over everything, I stood alone, giving my-
self up to the influence of the emotions the scene
described awoke in me, and endeavouring, though
vainly, to analyse the feeling which the majestic
loneliness of Patagonian scenery always produced
in my mind a feeling which I can only compare
for it would be impossible for me to seize on
any definite feature of the many vague sensations
which compose it to those called up by one of
Beethoven's grand, severe, yet mysteriously soft
sonatas.
I was awakened from my reverie by Francisco,
who was wandering about trying to gather a few
dry sticks for the fire. Fortunately he managed
to collect enough to enable us to cook a tolerable
144 fEAT AND GNATS.
dinner with ; having eaten which, as usual, when
we were fireless, we sought our couches as speedily
as possible.
The morning broke with every sign of bad
weather. The air was heavy and sultry, a hot
dry wind blew over the plains, whirling up clouds
of fine dust, and the mountain-chain was half-
hidden by dark masses of clouds of threatening
aspect. We saddled and packed up as hurriedly
as possible, fervently hoping that the rain, which
sooner or later we saw must come, would kindly
hold over till we had reached our destination.
As we journeyed on, the sultriness grew more
and more oppressive, and we were vexed by in-
numerable swarms of minute gnats, which got
into our eyes and mouths, buzzed about us in a
hopelessly persistent manner, and by no means
allayed the state of irritation the combined influ-
ence of dust and heat had brought us into. A
slight diversion presently occurred by the appear-
ance of an animal whose claims to our polite and
immediate attention were not to be denied. This
was an enormous puma, who suddenly sprang up
from the midst of our cavalcade, sending the mules
and luggage horses stampeding away in all direc-
tions. True to its cowardly nature, the animal
slouched hurriedly off, and disappeared down the
A PUMA AGAIN. 145
side of a ravine. Quick as thought we pursued it,
but fast as we galloped, not a trace of it was to
be seen. At a short distance from where we
stood eagerly searching for the vanished animal, I
perceived a small bush growing, the only one for
miles round, and to this I pointed as the probable
place where the brute had sought a hiding-place.
We lost no time in galloping towards the spot,
and the terrified snorting of our horses when we
drew near, assured us of the correctness of my
surmise, and put us on our guard.
We caught sight of him, as he crouched with
angry glowing eyes and an expression on his
face which, on discovering that none of us carried
a rifle, was the reverse of reassuring, especially as
we knew from our guides that, for some reason or
other, these Cordillera pumas are fiercer than their
kindred of the plains, and often attack their assail-
ants, a piece of temerity the latter have never
been known to be capable of.
Fortunately, at this moment, my husband
came up with a gun, though indeed it was only
loaded with small shot. Dismounting hastily he
approached within eight or nine yards of the
growling animal. Bang ! bang ! went his gun,
and through the cloud of smoke we saw the puma
jump up in the air and fall backwards on the
L
146 " THE RAIN IS NE VER WEAR K
bush. For a moment or two it rolled about in
the throes of death, and then, with a last growl
stretched itself slowly out, and lay still. Gregorio,
who arrived at this moment, set to work at once,
to remove its skin. The guides all declared it to
be the biggest puma they had ever seen. The
skin, which adorns the floor of the room where I
am at present writing, measures exactly nine feet
from the tip of the tail to the point of the nose.
We then hurried on again, anxiously scanning the
weather, which meanwhile had grown more and
more threatening. The sultriness had increased
so as to have become almost unbearable, and the
swarms of gnats above alluded to had grown
numerous in proportion. Before long a fearful
thunderstorm burst over our heads, and for a short
time the rain came down in sheets. Then a shift
of the wind changed the temperature again. It
became quite chilly, and the heavy rain resolved
itself into a thick drizzling mist, which soon wetted
us to the skin. For hours we rode in this com-
fortless plight, wet, cold, and tired, and by no
means cheered by the aspect of the country, the
little we could see of which most of it being
hidden by the mist aforesaid looking blacker and
sadder than ever.
We were in hopes that at least before evening
THE PUMA'S DEATH -SPRING.
DAMPNESS HUNGER GLOOM. 147
it would clear up, as the prospect of having to
pitch our camp in the drizzling sleet was far from
pleasant, but as it grew darker the fog increased
in thickness, and soon we could hardly see fifty
paces ahead of our horses' noses. How Gregorio
managed to find the way, I don't know. At last
it being, as near as I could judge, about sunset,
we descended a very steep declivity, and came on
to what appeared to be a ravine of the ordinary
kind, where grass and underwood were apparently
abundant. We halted at a semicircle of tall
bushes, and set disconsolately to work to get up
the tents. This by no means easy task being
accomplished, we collected the provisions and
cartridges together, and got them under shelter
into the smaller of the two tents. Our rugs, furs,
and coverings were wet through, so we carried
them into the other tent and proceeded to wring
them and lay them out to dry. This being
done, we turned our attention towards making a
fire, but the guides and everybody declared
the attempt impossible, and indeed so it seemed,
for there was not a dry twig or blade of grass
to be found anywhere. Back we all crept into
our damp tents, and prepared to dine as geni-
ally as we could off sardines and dry biscuit.
But though we might choose to resign ourselves
148 I ARIA TO THE RESCUE.
thus supinely to discomfort, old I' Aria, for his
part, was by no means inclined to do so. Whilst
the discussion as to the possibility of making a
fire had been carried on, after listening a minute
or two to the arguments which were being urged
proving conclusively that nothing could be done
towards it, he silently withdrew, and busied him-
self in setting up his own little tent, a rather
dilapidated one by the way, as, whenever he
required something wherewith to patch up a rent
in his curious garments, he was in the habit of
supplying his want by cutting out a piece of the
canvas of his u casa " (Jwuse) as he called it an
ingenious method of robbing Peter to pay Paul.
Meanwhile we had retired to our tents, and
were beginning to arrange our furs preparatory to
going to bed, when I heard some conversation
going on between I' Aria, my husband, and
Mr. B., the latter an inveterate mate drinker,
and who, I must say, had been the only one at
the council who had expressed himself hopefully
as regarded the possibility of making a fire.
Looking out of the tent I saw them all crouched
under a bush, dripping wet, but earnestly engaged
in some elaborate preparations for conquering
damp and getting soaked wood to burn.
Finding they disregarded my friendly advice
r ARIAS INGENUITY. 149
to save themselves the trouble of doing what
could only be termed useless, I withdrew into
my tent again. Half an hour later I could still
hear them bravely battling against the inevit-
able, but presently Mr. B. went past my tent
with a kettle in his hand. " The fire is burning,
is it ?" I called out ironically to him. " No, bu,t
it will very soon," he replied. " Meanwhile I am
going to fill the kettle ; would you like tea or
coffee ?" I answered something sarcastic, but
sighed. I certainly would have given anything
for a cup of hot tea. The hopeful expression
of Mr. B.'s face had struck me, so, covering my-
self up in a cloak, I went up to where I' Aria
was busy at work, to see if really there was any
hope of his succeeding. I found he had stuck
four little stakes in the ground, over which a
cloth was drawn, under whose shelter he had
built an elaborate structure of wooden matches,
laid crosswise one over the other, so as to be
handy when required ; over these lay a small heap
of fine twigs, as dry as could be procured, as well
as some stout sticks, and finally several logs,
which he informed me would soon be merrily
blazing. Everything being ready, he applied a
light to the matches, and as soon as they began
to blaze, added the twigs, which in their turn, after
150 P-ARIAS INGENUITY.
a little doubtful spluttering, took fire, and pre-
sently this was the critical moment the sticks
were laid on. For a time my worst fears seemed
about to be realised, the sticks only smoked
viciously, the matches had long burned away, and
the twigs now began to glow doubtfully. But
old I'Aria did not give in without a struggle.
Kneeling down he tried gently to fan the fading
glow with his breath. At times, as we anxiously
watched it, it seemed to gain strength, at others
it became reduced to a single spark. But patience
conquered at last ; the glow spread, the sticks
began to blaze, and before long there was a
good blazing fire, which brought every one from
his tent, especially as, meantime, the rain had
ceased, though a thick mist still hung over every-
thing, making the darkness of the night still more
intense. Kettles were put on to boil, mate, tea,
coffee, imbibed, and Francisco prepared an excel-
lent ostrich-fry, a la minute, discussing which,
blessings were invoked on F Aria's head, to his
perseverance these comforts being due. Supper
over, we groped our way back to our tents, and,
enveloped in a dense damp mist, went to sleep,
not at all satisfied with the inhospitable greeting
the Cordilleras had vouchsafed us.
A SURPRISE. 151
CHAPTER XIII.
A SURPRISE A STRANGE SCENE AN IDLE DAY CALIFATE*
BERRIES GUANACO-STALKING A DILEMMA MOSQUITOES
A GOOD SHOT.
THE next morning I was pleasantly awakened by
a bright ray of sunshine, which forced its way
through the opening in my tent, leaving me little
inclination to sleep any longer. I lost no time in
getting up, and stepped out, anxious to see what
kind of country we had got into under cover of
the fog of the previous day.
For a moment I was quite bewildered by the
contrast of the scene now before me and the
dreary impression the unfavourable weather con-
ditions had lent to the country on our arrival. I
found we were camped in a broad valley, which
looked bright and smiling beneath a clear blue
sky and a warm sun. A slight breeze swept over
the long green grass, which was studded here and
there with clumps of califate bushes, and an
enlivening colour variety was given to the verdant
152 A STXANGE SCENE.
carpet by occasional tracts of white and yellow
flowers. One end of the valley was bound by
some tall hills, covered with dark patches of
beech trees, and beyond these again, ridge above
ridge, range above range, the snow and glacier
covered Cordilleras of the Andes towered majes-
tically to the sky. The air was marvellously
clear ; looking long westward, I could gradually
distinguish, in the haze of the distance, over the
mountains which first met my gaze, white snowy
ranges, of such height that they seemed to float
in mid-air, and only after my vision had acquired
sharpness from long concentration, could I trace
their outlines basewards. But it was the sight at
the near end of the valley which most claimed my
attention. From behind the green hills that
bound it rose a tall chain of heights, whose
jagged peaks were cleft in the most fantastic
fashion, and fretted and worn by the action of the
air and moisture into forms, some bearing the
semblance of delicate Gothic spires, others imitat-
ing with surprising closeness the bolder outlines
of battlemented buttresses and lofty towers. The
bare rock which formed them was red porphyry,
and the morning sun glittering on it, lent it a
variety of bright tints, purple and golden, which
were thrown into striking relief by the blue back-
A STRANGE SCENE. 153
ground of the sky and the white masses of snow,
which, in parts, clung to the peaks. The abrupt
flanks of these tall heights were scored with deep
gullies and ravines, and strewn with detached
boulders of rock; but nowhere was there any trace
of vegetation, either bush or grass.
The suddenness with which this novel scenery
burst upon me considerably heightened its effect.
But yesterday we had stood on the plains, with
their eternal monotony of colour and outline ; last
night we had gone to bed, as we thought, in a
similar dreary waste ; and now, as if by magic,
from the bowels of the earth, a grand and glorious
landscape had sprung up around us, as totally
different, in its diversity of outline and colour,
from that which only a few hours ago had de-
pressed and wearied us, as could well be imagined.
It was amusing to hear the exclamations of
surprise with which my companions greeted the
scene, as one by one they came out of their tents
and gazed on the pleasant metamorphosis which
had taken place during our slumbers. We had
grumbled a good deal the day before about the
country, and had anathematised it with many ill-
tempered expletives ; but all that was now for-
gotten, and as we looked around us we felt that
our trouble had not been unrewarded.
iS4 'AN IDLE DA Y.
Taking advantage of the fine weather, we
spread our damp furs on the bushes, and, thanks
to the wind and sun, they were soon dry. Break-
fast over, my brother started off with his rifle
to explore the peaks at the end of the valley,
whilst we others stretched ourselves on our furs
under the shade of some tall bushes, and with the
help of books and pipes, a little desultory conver-
sation, and the lazy contemplation of the fair
scenery before us, we managed to pass away the
hot hours of noon pleasantly enough.
When it got cooler, and we had drank our fill
of idleness, we found plenty to occupy ourselves
with. There were guns to be cleaned. I had my
journal to write up ; and, although I am no good
hand with the needle, the rough usage my apparel
had lately received made some attempts at sewing
and patching imperative. The guides busied
themselves in repairing saddle-gear, making reins
or lassos from guanaco hide, and similar work.
Our English servant Storer, who had somehow
created for himself the reputation of one expert in
the stuffing of birds and the curing of skins, was
busy with several unsavoury smelling specimens
of the latter, which he had been carrying about
him for some days, having to-day, for the first
time, leisure to operate upon them. Mr. B. went
CALIF ATE BERRIES. 155
off to make a sketch of our camp and its pictur-
esque surroundings, and in searching for a suitable
site came across a califate bush, the blue berries
on which were almost ripe. He brought back a
capful, and though we found them rather acid,
mashed up with plenty of sugar they made a very
nice refreshing dish, which was especially welcome
to us after our late uniform diet. In the long
grass near the stream that flowed down the valley
we found some wild celery, which, put in the
soup, was a decided improvement on the dried
" Julienne " we had brought with us, and of which
by this time we had but little left. Just as we
were getting rather anxious about him, as it was
already near sunset, my brother came back from
his excursion to the Porphyry Peaks. Arriving
at their base much later than he expected, having
been deceived in the distance, he had only had
time to climb about half-way up them, but even
at that height had got a splendid view of the
country beyond, his accounts of which made us
eager to penetrate into it as soon as possible.
But as our packhorses required rest, this had to
be deferred for a couple of days yet.
The next day a hunting-party was organ-
ised. Neither our guides nor ourselves know-
ing whether any game was to be found in the
156 G UANA CO-STALKING.
country we were about to enter, it was necessary
that we should take a good supply of meat with
us. We made a circle in the usual manner, and
were successful, as far as ostriches were concerned,
inasmuch as, after some good runs, we managed
to kill three.
Having observed a herd of guanaco grazing
in a valley at some distance, those of us whose
horses were still tolerably fresh then set out to
try and get one, the meat of three ostriches not
being sufficient to last ourselves and dogs for
more than two days. The dogs were all too
tired with their previous exertions to be of any
use to us, so we had to rely solely on our rifles.
This being the case, it was necessary to stalk
the herd with great precautions, and this we
proceeded to do, choosing our ground carefully,
so as to keep out of their sight. But we had
not gone far when we heard a shrill neigh close
by, and looking round, we saw a guanaco
standing on the crest of a hill overlooking the
valley. He had scarcely uttered his cry when
it was repeated at a little distance off by another
watchful sentinel, and then they both slowly
cantered off, looking back at us as they went
along, and neighing loudly at intervals. The
herd, meanwhile, warned of the approach of
GUANA CO-STALKING. 157
danger, leisurely trotted up the escarpment on
the other side of the valley, and as leisurely
disappeared over the plain. My husband took
a vindictive pot-shot at one of the retreating
sentinels, but missed him ; and we had to make
the best of our disappointment, and search for
some less watchful herd. In this we had con-
siderable difficulty, the guanacos on this par-
ticular day appearing to be shyer than we had
ever known them. At last, after a great deal
of fruitless stalking, my husband got a shot at
a little knot of four or five, who were standing
together, almost out of range. One fell, and the
others took to their heels. With a cry of tri-
umph we galloped up to the wounded one, but to
our dismay, at our approach, he sprang to his feet
and started off full speed after his companions,
to all appearance unhurt. Spurring our horses,
we followed closely in his wake, down steep
ravines, up hills, over the plains, at times losing
him altogether, but always catching sight of him
again, going as fresh as ever, till at last we began
to despair of ever running him down. One by
one my companions dropped off, till presently
only my husband, Mr. B., and myself, were left
in the chase. Had he not been so palpably hit,
we should have desisted too ; but it seemed a pity,
158 A DILEMMA.
having gone so far, to give in, so we kept on,
hoping to tire out our prey by sheer persistence.
But gradually, and no wonder, our jaded horses
began to show signs of exhaustion ; we had run
them almost to a standstill, and, reflecting on the
distance we had to ride back to the camp, we
were just going to rein in, when the guanaco sud-
denly stopped and lay down. Sure now of getting
him, we pushed on towards him. But when we
had got to within about six yards of him, up
he got, and galloped off again, distancing us at
every stride. Hesitating what to do, we kept in
his wake, though all the time we were wishing
we had never started after him. Slower and
slower our panting horses struggled towards a
ravine, clown the side of which the guanaco had
disappeared. We came to its edge and looked
down. The guanaco was nowhere to be seen.
We were at a loss to imagine what could have
become of him. He had not climbed the other
side, or we should have seen him emerge on the
plain, nor could he have gone along the ravine,
either to the right or the left, as we commanded
a view of it in both directions for a loner distance.
o
In this dilemma we were staring open-mouthed
with astonishment about us, when something
moved in the long grass below, and directing our
MOSQUITOES. 159
steps thither we came upon our guanaco lying
stretched out in a pool of blood. The movement
that had drawn our attention to him had evidently
been his last effort, for he was now quite dead.
Examining him, we found the bullet had entered
his side, and passing through the lungs and lights,
had lodged near the spine ; and yet, thus severely
wounded, he had gone quite ten miles at a
cracking pace ! Later on we experienced still
more extraordinary instances of the toughness
and tenacity of life of these animals, in compari-
son with whom the cat with its nine lives is
absolutely nowhere. Having cut up the guan-
aco, and distributed its meat on the saddles of
our horses, we turned back towards our camp ;
and a long ride we had before we got there.
FAria, we found, had also killed a guanaco,
and we had therefore plenty of meat to last
us, should we have difficulty in getting game in
the Cordilleras.
The next day was passed, in idleness. It was
extremely hot, scarcely a breath of wind stirring,
and in the evening we were rather bothered by
mosquitoes, this being the first acquaintance we
made with them in Patagonia. During the day
a bird was seen hovering over the camp at an
immense height, which we were told was a
160 ' A GOOD SHOT.
condor. It was so high up that it looked scarcely
bigger than an ordinary hawk. Taking advantage
of a moment when it hung perfectly motionless,
my husband had a shot at it, and, by a marvel-
lous fluke, the ball took effect, and down the
creature came, growing bigger and bigger as it
fell, till at last, reaching the earth with a loud
thud, there it was, the most gigantic bird I had
ever seen. We found it measured twelve feet
from wing to wing. The most distinctive feature
of the condor is the white down ruff which
encircles the neck two or three inches below the
head, which latter is completely bare of feathers
and repulsively ugly. In the female bird the
colour of this ruff is black.
This night the mosquitoes became a positive
nuisance. I tried all kinds of stratagems to
protect myself from them such as tying my
handkerchief over my face, or burying myself
under my furs, but between being smothered and
bitten, I preferred the latter evil. Similarly, the
plan we adopted of lighting some damp grass
in the tent, so as to smoke our trying enemies
out, had ultimately to be abandoned in favour of
passive endurance of the inevitable. I quite
envied old I' Aria. Throughout the night, whilst
from all sides exclamations and expletives of
MOSQUITOES. 161
varying irritability and force were continually to
be heard, the placid snore which floated from his
tent showed that, thanks to his parchment skin,
he was enabled to bear the sting of the out-
rageous mosquito with serene indifference.
M
162 AN'UNKNOWN COUNTRY.
CHAPTER XIV.
AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY PASSING THE BARRIER CLEOPATRA'S
NEEDLES FOXES A GOOD RUN OUR FOREST SANCTUARY
ROUGHING IT A BATH A VARIED MENU.
WE were up early the next morning, for we had
perhaps a long journey before us, the country we
were about to penetrate being as unknown to
our guides as to ourselves ; and no one could say
when and where we might find a suitable place
for camping that night. All helped to drive up
and saddle the horses ; their long rest and the
rich grass in the valley had done them good, and
they were in very fair condition, which was for-
tunate, as we might have some arduous climbs to
face, and pasture lands might be scarce among
the mountains.
The day before, the guides had been on a
reconnoitring expedition, with the object of find-
ing the most practicable route towards the interior,
and having discovered a ravine, which appeared
PASSING THE BARRIER. 163
to wind in the direction of the mountains, and
which, at the same time, afforded easy going for
our horses, we resolved to make it our highway.
Accordingly, all being ready, we said good-bye
to the plains, and, fording the stream which
flowed down the valley, we entered on the winding
ravine, full of curiosity as to what kind of country
we were now to break in upon.
The ravine was in itself a fit preparation for
something strange and grand. Its steep slopes
towered up on either side of us to an immense
height ; and the sunlight being thus partially
excluded, a mysterious gloom reigned below,
which, combined with the intense, almost painful
silence of the spot, made the scene inexpressibly
strange and impressive. Its effect was inten-
sified by the knowledge that since these gigantic
solitudes had been fashioned by nature, no
human eye had ever beheld them, nor had
any human voice ever raised the echoes, which,
awakening now for the first time, repeated in
sonorous chorus the profane shouts of " legua !
legua !" with which our guides drove the horses
along.
We hurried on, anxious to reach the mouth of
the ravine, and behold the promised land as soon
as possible, but several hours elapsed before we
164 CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLES.
at last reached its farther end, and emerged from
its comparative gloom into the sunshine of the
open. A glance showed us that we were in a
new country. Before us stretched a picturesque
plain, covered with soft green turf, and dotted
here and there with clumps of beeches, and
crossed in all directions by rippling streams. The
background was formed by thickly-wooded hills,
behind which again towered the Cordilleras, three
tall peaks of a reddish hue, and in shape exact
facsimiles of Cleopatra's Needle, being a con-
spicuous feature in the landscape. The califate
bushes here were of a size we had never met on
the plains, and were covered with ripe berries, on
which hosts of small birds were greedily feasting.
The very air seemed balmier and softer than that
we had been accustomed to, and instead of the
rough winds we had hitherto encountered there
was a gentle breeze of just sufficient strength
agreeably to temper the heat of the sun. Here
and there guanaco were grazing under the shade
of a spreading beech tree, and by the indolent
manner in which they walked away as we
approached, it was easy to see that they had
never known what it was to have a dozen fierce
dogs and shouting horsemen at their heels. But
soon we all dismounted round a huge califate
CLEOPATRA S NEEDLES. 165
bush, and there we ate our fill of its sweet juicy
berries, taking a supply with us to be eaten after
dinner, mashed up with sugar, as dessert. Then
we gaily cantered on towards the hills, passing
many a pleasant - looking nook, and enjoying
many a charming glimpse of landscape, doubly
delightful after the ugliness of the plains.
Numerous small lagoons, covered with wild-
fowl of strange and novel appearance, frequently
came in our way, and by their shores basked
hundreds of the lovely white swans whose species
I have already mentioned. Unlike their com-
rades of the plains they appeared perfectly tame,
merely waddling into the water when we ap-
proached close up alongside them, and never
once attempting to fly away. I was greatly struck
by the thousands of ducks and geese that covered
these lakes.
Crossing a broad mountain-stream which ran
down from the hills on our left, and disappeared
into a mighty gorge stretching away into those
on our right, we still directed our march along the
grassy plain which led direct towards the three
huge Cleopatra peaks rising from out of the snow
glaciers far ahead of us. The thickly -wooded
slopes which we could perceive in the distance
filled us with eager longing to reach them, as it
166 FOXES.
was many a day since we had last seen trees of
any kind. In the vast forests which lay before
us we promised ourselves a goodly supply of fuel
and many a roaring fire around the camp. On
the way we occasionally gave chase to the foxes
which started up at our approach. There are a
great many of these animals in Patagonia, and
one has to be careful to put all leather articles
in some safe place at night, or else in the morn-
ing one is apt to find them gnawed to pieces by
these sly marauders. Their fur is very soft, and
silver gray in colour. I resolved to make a col-
lection of their skins, and carry them back to
England to be made up into rugs and other
useful articles. It is very rarely that a dog can
catch one of these foxes by himself: our best
ostrich hound, " La Plata," after an exciting chase
of half an hour, found himself outpaced and out-
stayed. So quickly can they twist, turn, and
double, that it is out of the power of one dog
to equal them.
Whilst we were slowly jogging along, my
horse, with a snort of terror suddenly swerved
violently on one side. Close to him there rose up
a magnificent ostrich, who, after one astonished
gaze at our party, turned and fled in the direction
by which we had just come. With a merry
A GOOD RUN. 167
shout Francois was after him, followed by my
brother and myself. Loca and Leona, who had
caught sight of the ostrich in a moment, lost no
time in straining every limb to come alongside
the fast -fleeting bird, who scudded away at a
tremendous pace over the rough uneven ground.
Our progress on horseback was also by no means
an easy task, as the line taken by the ostrich
presented many obstacles, such as high thick
bushes, sharp - pointed, half- hidden rocks, and
broad, deep chasms. These latter obstacles could
only be negotiated at certain places, as their
sides were jagged and rotten ; and woe betide
the horse who should fall into one of these deep,
untempting - looking bottoms. But when his
blood is up, and the excitement of the chase at
its highest pitch, what keen sportsman cares to
crane or wonder what danger lies on the other
side of the obstacle that confronts him ? His
only thought is to get forward and keep a front
rank in the merry chase that goes gaily sweep-
ing along. And so on we pressed as fast as we
could, and urged our horses to do their utmost.
Fully entering into the excitement of the moment,
the game little beasts answered willingly to our
call, and in spite of the rough, difficult going, we
managed to keep the dogs and ostrich in sight.
1 68 A GOOD RUN.
" They'll soon have him now," calls out my
brother to me, as a cloud of feathers float away
in the still air, torn from the bird's tail by La
Leona, who shakes her head to get rid of those
that cling round her mouth and clog her
tongue and throat. The bird has begun to
double, but finds his match in the two clever
little ladies at his side, and before long succumbs
an easy prey to them both.
This little incident lent a pleasant variety
to the winding up of a long tiring day ; and
full of triumph in the success of our hunt, we
trotted towards the camping - place our com-
panions had chosen.
On our arrival we found active preparations
going on in the culinary department, and every
one very busily engaged. Three huge fires
blazed merrily in front of my tent, and a little
farther off a succession of smaller ones indicated
the spot where the cooks were employed in pre-
paring dinner. Over one of these hung a pot of
soup, carefully superintended by my husband ; at
another Storer was watching and turning the
roasting ribs of a guanaco, while at a third Gre-
gorio occupied himself in frying a rich steak of
ostrich, and roasting three or four of their wings
as a bonne douche, which was to succeed the roast.
OUR FOREST SANCTUARY. 169
Nor were Guillaume or I' Aria idle, as the goodly
pile of firewood that lay stacked up near each
fire spoke volumes for their activity and energy.
After we had unsaddled our horses and turned
them loose to join their companions hard by, we
refreshed ourselves with mate, and then proceeded
to take part in the general work and arrangement
of the camp. Mysteriously promising us some-
thing extra good in the shape of a new dish,
Fran9ois retired into his tent, dragging after him
the ostrich which we had just killed. The result
of his efforts, he assured us, would produce a plea-
sant surprise, and an agreeable change in the
monotony of our daily diet. Though full of
curiosity as to what that result might prove, we
judged it best to leave him alone, remembering
the proverb that " Too many cooks spoil a dish."
Collecting the rows of pack-saddles and articles of
riding gear, I proceeded to arrange them tidily,
together with the numerous sacks and baggage, in
a corner of Storer's tent, and then gathering up a
roll of guanaco furs, turned my attention to the
making up of our beds. On the pampa it had
always been a matter of some difficulty to discover
ground smooth enough whereon to lay out the
beds, on account of the rough, uneven nature of
the plains ; but on this occasion I had no cause to
170 OUR FOREST SANCTUARY.
grumble, for beneath the lofty spreading beech
trees the smooth, velvety, mossy turf afforded the
softest and most luxurious of feather beds in the
world. Our couches were simple enough, as
doubtless the reader imagines. The ground sup-
plied the want of a bedstead or mattress, a single
blanket occupied the place of a sheet, and our
guanaco capas served as covering, being remark-
able for their great warmth. With our saddles
for our pillows, a complete and final touch was
given to the whole arrangement, and on these
hard beds, tired with our day's exertions, we
would sleep as soundly and comfortably as though
they were the most luxurious spring mattresses
imaginable.
The beds arranged to my satisfaction, I next
proceeded to go the round of the camp to see if
everything was in order, on finding which to be
the case, with a sigh of relief I felt that my work
was over for the day, and the time for rest arrived.
Roughing it may be all very well in theory, but
it is not so easy in practice. After a long tiring
march, when you have been in the saddle twelve
or thirteen hours under a hot sun, it is by no
means a light task, on the arrival at your journey's
end, to have to unload your horses, pitch your
tents, cook your dinner, clean your saddles and
ROUGHING IT. 171
bridles, unpack and remove the baggage, and
place everything in order and neatness, while it
occupies a long and weary time. In England, on
your return every day from hunting, you come
home tired and weary, no doubt, but it is to a cosy
hunting-box, where a warm room, a blazing fire,
an easy arm-chair await you, with servants in
plenty to attend to your wants, a refreshing hot
bath, and the luxury of a clean change of clothes.
But all this is not forthcoming on the pampa, and
before you can rest, the whole business I have
mentioned has to be gone through, everybody, no
matter who it is, taking his or her share of work,
while the thought of fatigue must be banished,
and every one must put his shoulder to the
wheel, and undertake and accomplish his separate
task cheerfully and willingly. Only by so doing
can things be kept going in the brisk orderly
manner they should.
Our camp had been pitched close to the bank
of a lovely little mountain stream, which made
its appearance from out the thick woods that rose
to a great height behind us. The sound of its
splashing waters filled me with an irresistible
longing for a plunge. Accordingly, armed with a
rough towel, I proceeded to follow its winding
course upwards, and through the dense foliage of
172 A BATH.
the beech trees I could make out its silver stream
descending like a white streak from an immense
height. Presently I arrived at a spot where, fed
by a small cascade, a clear cool pool of water
presented a most convenient and inviting appear-
ance for a bath. I lost no time in undressing and
indulging in the luxury of a plunge, which greatly
refreshed and invigorated me after the long tiring
day I had undergone.
On my return to the camp I found that dinner
was quite ready. Nine hungry human beings,
and nine still hungrier dogs, require a good sub-
stantial meal. Our menu that night was neither
mean nor small. As it may interest my readers,
I append it :
Soup. Guanaco Head, slices of Ostrich, and
rice. Roast ribs of Guanaco.
Fried Ostrich Picane. (Back of the ostrich,
resembling a very rich Rumpsteak).
Roast Goose and Ducks.
Ostrich Wings.
Ostrich Liver and fat (consisting of square
pieces of ostrich liver and fat, toasted on a stick).
Blood Pudding.
Dessert. Califates, Coffee, Mate, Tea, Biscuits.
The blood-pudding proved to be the dish
about which Francois had observed so much
A VARIED MENU. 173
secrecy and mystery. It was certainly exceed-
ingly good, and we were loud in praise of its
merits. The ostrich liver and fat, a new dish
also, was most acceptable, and that night we
drank the health of Francois in a glass of whisky
and water all round. Dinner over, we replenished
the numerous fires that burned in a semicircle in
front of our camp ; and then, tired and weary, we
sought our couches, and, canopied o'erhead by the
rustling trees, with the bright moonlight shining
down upon us, slept as sound and contented a
sleep as the fatigues we had undergone entitled
us to.
i 7 4 EXCURSIONS INTO THE MOUNTAINS.
CHAPTER XV.
EXCURSIONS INTO THE MOUNTAINS MYSTERIES OF THE COR-
DILLERAS WILD - HORSE TRACKS DEER MAN THE
DESTROYER.
THE first few days of our sojourn in the mountains
were spent in making short excursions into the
different gorges that stretched away inwards for
miles and miles far as the eye could reach. We
were full of curiosity to penetrate and fathom their
hidden mysteries ; but this was out of the question,
owing to the limited supply of provisions which
we were able to carry with us. In these solitary
wanderings we came across no sign or vestige of
the haunts of human beings, and few and far
between were the animals that crossed our path.
Occasionally, from some jagged plateau or rugged
height, we would catch a glimpse of small deer
or guanaco, and now and again a wild horse
would peer at us suspiciously from behind a huge
rock, and then, with a neigh of astonishment
rather than fright, dash hurriedly off, its beauti-
MYSTERIES OF THE CORDILLERAS 175
ful mane and tail flowing in the breeze, giving
it a grand, wild, and picturesque appearance.
Musters tells us in his Narrative of Patagonia,
that the Indians fully believe in the existence of
an unknown tribe, or of an enchanted or hidden
city, which, they superstitiously aver, lies con-
cealed somewhere in the recesses of these moun-
tains.
Farther north the Araucanian Indians profess
to having discovered in their vicinity a settle-
ment of white people who spoke an unknown
tongue. Numerous legends and stories are cur-
rent amongst the Patagonians, who all behold
with awe and superstition the distant wooded
slopes and far -stretching glaciers of the Cordil-
leras, into whose shades they never attempt to
penetrate.
The Chilotes declare that in the western
forests of the Cordillera, an animal exists bearing
the form of a wild man covered all over with
coarse shaggy hair. Tranco is the appellation by
which it goes. It is difficult to bring oneself to
believe that amidst these immense solitudes a
species of human being does not exist. Imagin-
ative minds may conjure up all sorts of extra-
ordinary fancies, and people unknown regions
with strange and fantastic figures ; and it is hard
1 76 MYSTERIES OF THE CORDILLERAS.
to prevent oneself from giving a kind of credence
to these vague stories which are told with so
much confidence and belief by the inhabitants
of the country.
The hilly, undulating country which stretched
away in the direction of the three Cleopatra peaks
filled us with an eager desire to explore its un-
known territory ; and accordingly, accompanied by
Gregorio and Francois, we all set off on horse-
back early one morning, soon after daybreak.
The air was keen and invigorating, and we trotted
along for some time, following and skirting the
line of forest which extended on our right and in
front of us as far as we could distinguish. Away
on our left stretched a bright green valley, gay
with many-coloured flowers, and watered by in-
numerable streams and water -courses, whilst be-
yond rose high hills, covered with vegetation, and
crowned in the distance by thick impenetrable
woods. Califate bushes, loaded with ripe berries
of a great and unusual size, frequently brought us
to a halt, as it was impossible to resist their
tempting and refreshing aspect.
About midday, when the sun was at its height,
and we began to feel the effects of its hot, scorch-
ing rays, the valley through which we had been
pursuing our way suddenly came to an abrupt
MYSTERIES OF THE CORDILLERAS. 177
termination. Breasting the hill which confined
its limits, we halted on the summit to give the
horses a few moments' rest, and to contemplate
in silence and delight the lovely scene that lay
stretched at our feet.
Of a totally different aspect was this new
country on which we were entering from that we
had just quitted, for the woods closed in on all
sides, and huge masses of rocks rose from out
their leafy tops, giving the appearance of ruined
strongholds to those who beheld them for the
first time. Sunny glades, carpeted by rich green
grass, opened out here and there, as though they
had been cleared and fashioned by the hand of
man, while a lovely little stream, which made its
appearance from out of the woods on our right,
continued its course towards a deep ravine, which
we could distinguish in the distance. Away to
our left, and surrounded by thick woods, glittered
the clear sparkling waters of an immense lake,
which we judged to be about two miles distant,
and beyond all rose up like a huge frowning
barrier, the lofty snow - clad peaks of the Cor-
dillera. Not a sound disturbed the deathlike
stillness which reigned over everything ; no
animal life was stirring, and the impression con-
veyed to an eye-witness who beheld this scene
N
1 78 MYSTERIES OF THE CORDILLERAS.
for the first time was a sense of utter loneliness
and desolation.
Descending the hill on which we had halted
to breathe the horses, we entered upon the
woodland scene I have just described, and follow-
ing the course of the little brook that flowed
towards the great ravine, were not long in arriv-
ing at the edge of its steep perpendicular descent.
It proved to be a ravine of no ordinary size, for
many hundreds of feet below, its base was formed
by what appeared to be a tiny winding stream,
but which a later expedition, of which I have yet
to speak, proved in reality to be a broad though
shallow river. Far away below us, to our right,
roared an enormous cataract, which, half hidden
in the trees, left scarcely any part of itself visible,
and were it not for the clouds of spray that rose
to a great height, an eye-witness could not have
distinguished its real position amidst its leafy
hiding-place.
We were not long in ascertaining that it would
be impossible to get horses down the steep pre-
cipitous sides of this great ravine, and therefore
reluctantly abandoned any hope of being able that
day to make any farther progress towards the
three great peaks which still towered in front
of us. Directing our horses to the left, we en-
WILD-HORSE TRACKS. 179
tered a long stretch of narrow woodland, which
appeared to lead in the direction of the lake
we had distinguished a little time back. It was
not long before we struck upon a wild horse
track, and concluding that it was formed by these
animals on their way to drink at the lake, we
followed its tortuous and many winding ways for
some time.
Frequently the brushwood became so dense,
the trees so close together, that we had to dis-
mount and creep through the openings made by
our horses, having previously driven them
through. Now and then the path we were follow-
ing would suddenly cease, and it would be some
time before we came upon its track again. At
last we emerged from some thick underwood into
a broad clearing, and eagerly pushed forward.
Proceeding at a quicker rate than my com-
panions, I was soon far ahead of them ; and in
fear of being lost, and anxious to avoid such an
unpleasant contretemps, I drew rein, and dis-
mounting, sat down to await their arrival. Pre-
sently a cracking sound as of sticks breaking close
to me attracted my attention. Looking in the
direction whence the sound proceeded, I espied
a species of deer, of a dark golden colour, eyeing
me with extreme astonishment. He was a fine
i8o DEER.
buck, with beautiful branching antlers, and large
dark languishing eyes. Close behind him cau-
tiously peered two does, and a little farther off I
could make out several other animals of the same
kind.
How I longed for a rifle, but of this firearm
I knew we had not brought one with us, and
though I had a gun, it was not at hand, and was
being carried by Storer. Crawling away from the
spot as quietly as I could, I placed a good hundred
yards between myself and the place from which I
had first caught sight of these animals, and then
springing to my feet, ran as hard as I could in the
direction I judged my companions were coming.
As soon as they came in sight I endeavoured by
signs to get them to halt. They quickly perceived
me, and guessing what I wanted, immediately
drew rein and waited for me to come up. I lost
no time in informing them of the discovery I had
made, and taking my gun, proceeded to regain as
quietly and stealthily as possible the spot I had
lately quitted. The rest of my companions re-
mained stationary, waiting for the report of my
gun, which was to bring them all up.
Yes, there he was, a beautiful animal, still in
the same attitude of inquiring curiosity in which
I had left him. Anxious to avoid spoiling the
DEER. 181
head, I took aim behind the shoulder, and fired.
The report was followed by a crashing sound in
the direction in which I had fired. Into the glade
some half-dozen deer bounded, and like lightning
disappeared into the opposite wood. When the
smoke cleared away I perceived the one at which
I had fired on his knees, evidently unable to pro-
ceed. Full of anxiety to place the poor beast out
of his agony I fired a second barrel at him, which
had the effect of knocking him over. Springing
up immediately, however, he walked slowly away,
seemingly unconcerned and unhurt. I could not
make out what was the matter with myself and
my gun. He had evidently been hit both times,
and yet seemed to be perfectly unconcerned at
the whole thing. I could not bring myself to fire
again, but Gregorio did with his revolver, and
broke the unfortunate animal's leg. Limping away
on three, he went and lay down under an over-
hanging rock, appearing more stupefied than in
pain. Disgusted at such butchery, I begged one
of my companions, all of whom had come up, to
despatch the unfortunate beast, and my husband,
going close up to him, placed his revolver within
a foot of the deer's forehead and fired. Slowly
it sank forward, stunned and apparently lifeless,
but when we came alongside it, it was still
1 82 DEER.
breathing, and there was no mark to show that
the bullet had penetrated the skull. Here Fran-
9013 came to our aid, and with the help of his
hunting-knife, the poor creature was put out of
his misery.
As I wished to keep the skin, the coat of
which was very thick and long, Gregorio set to
work to remove it. The process occupied some
time, and proved most difficult and tedious to
accomplish. During our stay in the Cordilleras
we frequently came across these deer ; but our
experience of their tameness, the great difficulty
of killing them, and the utter absence of sport
which lay therein, prevented us from ever again
attempting to bring another down. The flesh
was decidedly good, and much to be appreciated
after the monotonous diet of ostrich and guanaco
meat ; but even with this inducement at hand,
the golden deer of the Cordilleras remained un-
molested and sacred in our eyes for the rest of
the time we remained in their hitherto undis-
turbed and peaceful solitudes. If regret could
atone for that death, of which I unfortunately
was the cause, then it has long ago been for-
given ; for, for many a day I was haunted by a
sad remorse for the loss of that innocent and
trusting life, which had hitherto remained in
MAN, THE DESTROYER. 183
ignorance of the annihilating propensities of man
that man who, directly he sees something beau-
tiful and rare, becomes filled with the desire to
destroy.
The shoulders, ribs, and head were packed
on to the horses of Storer, Fran9ois, and Gregorio,
the remainder being left as food for the dogs and
condors. Some dozen of the latter, having scented
blood, were already hovering high above our
heads, and as soon as we were out of sight would
doubtless swoop down and make greedy feast on
the remains left by the dogs. Five minutes'
riding brought us to the shores of the great
lagoon towards which we had been directing our
steps. Here we dismounted, and tethering our
horses, left them to browse on the long rich grass
which grew luxuriantly and thickly all round. A
couple of hours were quickly and happily whiled
away duck shooting. It was not till late that
night that we reached our camp in safety, tired
and hungry, but having thoroughly enjoyed our
day.
1 84 AN ALARM.
CHAPTER XVI.
AN ALARM THE WILD -HORSES AN EQUINE COMBAT THE
WILD STALLION VICTORIOUS THE STRUGGLE RENEWED
RETREAT OF THE WILD HORSES.
ONE evening, after dinner, we were all sitting
round the camp-fire, discussing coffee, when
FAria, who had gone to have a last look at the
horses before turning in, came running back, and
announced that he could see the Indians coming
down the valley in great numbers. We immedi-
ately jumped up and hurried out to inspect the
new arrivals, not a little annoyed at the prospect
of our privacy being intruded upon by these
unwelcome guests.
Looking up the valley, we saw a dark mass
moving slowly towards us. Presently it came
nearer, and Gregorio, looking at it closely for a
moment, said excitedly, " That's not the Indians,
but a herd of wild horses ; we had better look out
for our own ! " An extraordinary commotion was
indeed visible among our animals. They were
THE WILD HORSES. 185
running to and fro, evidently in a state of great
perturbation, now collecting together in a knot,
now dispersing at a gallop over the valley, neigh-
ing and whinnying shrilly.
As Gregorio spoke, one of the wild horses
detached itself from the main troop and galloped
at full speed towards our horses. " Quick !
quick ! your rifles, or we shall lose our tropilla,"
shouted Gregorio, in evident alarm ; and though
we did not quite understand the full extent of our
danger, we ran for our rifles, and started off as
quick as we could, to get between the wild horses
and our own, Gregorio explaining as we ran along,
that the wild stallion, if we did not stop him,
would drive off our troop, and leave us in the
most perilous plight. Of course nothing more
was needed to urge us on to our utmost speed,
to avert the threatening danger. But the stallion
flew like the wind towards our horses, who were
now all huddled together in a corner of the valley,
and we could scarcely hope to be in time to save
them. Suddenly he staggered and fell ; he had
got into a bog. In the few seconds he lost in
extricating himself we had time to get within
range. Bang ! bang ! bang ! went our rifles, but
unscathed he sped on, and was soon within twenty
yards of our terrified animals, and far in front of
i86 AN EQUINE COMBAT.
us. "We are lost!" cried the guides simultan-
eously ; and filled with dismay, we all stood still,
perfectly paralysed at the thought of the position
we should be in without horses, three hundred
miles away from Sandy Point.
But at this moment Gregorio's big bay stallion,
the master of the troop, rushed out to meet the
enemy, both halting when they met, and fronting
one another. Thankful for this diversion in our
favour, we again ran forward, in hopes of being
able to get up before Gregorio's stallion should
have been compelled to fly, as the superior size of
his adversary left no doubt he would ultimately
have to do. In the meantime the two animals,
after pawing the air for a second or two, made a
dash at one another, and engaged in a fierce com-
bat, carried on chiefly with their teeth, though
occasionally they would rise on their hind legs and
fight with their fore feet. Our horses, not daring
to stir, watched them on one side, and the wild
herd, which had meanwhile trotted up close to the
field of battle, looked on from the other side,
apparently deeply interested in the issue of the
struggle.
We hurried along as quick as we could,
though, unfortunately, we could make but slow
progress, encumbered as we were with our rifles,
THE WILD STALLION VICTORIOUS. 187
and retarded by the long grass. Meanwhile
another misfortune we discovered that beyond
three bullets my husband happened to have had in
his pocket when we started, and which we had
fired off in the first volley, no one had brought
any ammunition, this essential having been over-
looked in the hurry and excitement of the moment.
Hoping we should be able to cope with the
stallion, should we get up in time, with our
revolvers, we pressed on, our eyes fixed on the
two combatants, the endurance of our champion
being now our only chance. He was evidently
already worsted, and any second might turn tail
and fly. Still he fought on, and still we drew
nearer and nearer.
Suddenly my brother, who was a little in front
of us, seemed to fall. Running to him we found
him up to the waist in a bog, which stretched up
the valley between us and the horses. It was
impossible to cross it ; indeed, we had some diffi-
culty in pulling him out. We had to run a good
distance before we could get on to firmer ground ;
and in the meantime the battle went against our
stallion, who suddenly turned tail and fled. After
giving him a parting kick, the wild horse rushed
at our troop, and began to drive them at a gallop
towards his own, punishing with vicious bites and
1 88 THE STRUGGLE RENEWED.
kicks any animal that showed signs of becoming
refractory, or that did not go quick enough. The
moment was critical. We strained every nerve to
get between the two troops, as, if they once joined,
our chances were hopeless. But for another un-
expected diversion in our favour, our efforts would
have been defeated. This diversion was the
sudden reappearance on the scene of our stallion,
who, at the sight of his retreating wives, had
evidently once more screwed up his courage to
the fighting point.
The combat that now ensued was fiercer even
than the last one. Profiting by it, w r e got up to
our horses, who had stood still again, and hurriedly
drove them in front of us towards our camp. We
had gone some distance when the wild stallion,
having again proved victor, came swooping after
us, neighing proudly, and evidently meaning mis-
chief. We began to shout and wave our hands as
he approached, in the hopes of driving him off.
When within forty yards of us, he stopped, but
continued to circle round us, stamping and pawing,
and neighing angrily. Our object was to drive
the horses up to the camp and get to our rifle
ammunition, it being evident that the only way to
relieve ourselves of this troublesome Don Juan
was by despatching him altogether. We soon
RETREAT OF THE WILD HORSES. 189
got near to the camp, and shouted to I' Aria to
bring us some bullets. At the report of the first
shot the stallion fled in dismay, and with such
rapidity that the two or three bangs we had at
him missed their mark. He made straight for his
own troop, who, during the whole performance,
had stood in watchful expectation. The moment
he reached them they all started off at a gallop,
and, in the twinkling of an eye, swept up the
steep escarpment on the far side of the valley
and disappeared. Our horses were so frightened
and bewildered by the day's events, that they
seemed to have little desire to graze, but stood
quite quiet together for upwards of an hour near
the camp. We were in some apprehension lest
the stallion should return in the night, but Gre-
gorio said that he thought there was no danger of
such an occurrence taking place, and we accord-
ingly turned in and went to sleep, and were glad
to see our troop grazing tranquilly next morning
as usual.
1 90 EXCURSION TO CLEOPATRA NEEDLES.
CHAPTER XVII.
EXCURSION TO THE CLEOPATRA NEEDLES A BOG A WINDING
RIVER DIFFICULT TRAVELLING A STRANGE PHENOMENON
A FAIRY HAUNT WILD HORSES AGAIN THEIR AGILITY
THE BLUE LAKE THE CLEOPATRA PEAKS THE PRO-
MISED LAND.
IT was arranged that night that Mr. B. and my
brother and myself should make an expedition
with Gregorio, towards the three strange peaks
already mentioned. In order to spare our horses,
no cumbersome articles were to be taken, a kettle,
some biscuits, coffee, and meat, being all we con-
templated carrying with us, except, of course, our
guanaco furs and guns.
Thus equipped, we started the next morning
shortly after sunrise. Our trip began badly. We
had not gone far before my brother got into a
morass, out of which he had no little difficulty in
extricating himself; and as for his horse, at one
time we thought the poor brute would never get
out again, so deep had it sunk into the trembling,
boggy ground. However, we managed to get it
A WINDING RIVER. 191
out at last, and, though both well plastered with
mud, neither its rider nor itself were any the
worse for this little contretemps. Proceeding on
our journey, we followed Gregorio at a merry trot
towards the great ravine, through which flowed
that broad and rapid mountain stream, which it
was necessary for us to ford.
The ravine side was so steep that we had to
dismount and lead our horses down by a narrow
track made by the wild horses. This pathway
seemed to fall almost perpendicularly down to the
river, which roared along, two or three hundred
feet below us, and a slip or stumble might have
sent us pell mell, one over the other, into it. No
such mishap occurred, however, and, safely reach-
ing the bottom, we proceeded to ford the river.
It was not so deep as we had expected, but it
ran with great force, and its bed being composed
of shifting pebbles and large boulders of rock, our
horses floundered and splashed about in a distress-
ing way, and we all got more or less drenched by
the time we got through it. This being the
summer season the water was comparatively low,
and we were able to follow the windings of the
ravine, riding over the dry strip of river-bed for a
good distance. But then the river began to dart
about capriciously from one side of the ravine
1 92 DIFFICULT TRA YELLING.
to the other, the consequence being that we were
continually finding ourselves obliged to ford it
again ; and the ravine sides were now so steep and
thickly wooded that we had no option but to
follow the river. After two hours of splashing,
and many a narrow escape from complete duck-
ings, the river made a sudden turn southward,
and in order to keep on our road towards the
peaks we had to say farewell to our convenient
ravine, and make our way as best we could
through the beechwood forest. This was an
arduous task. At times we would get into a
thicket which made progress impossible, forcing
us to retrace our steps, and try some other route,
often to meet only the same difficulty as before.
Then a good broad clearing would turn out to be
equally impracticable, on account of a belt of bog
stretching across it, or a little ravine, which favoured
our journey for a time, would resolve itself into an
impasse, and again we would have to turn back.
Fortunately the weather was fine and sunny, and
we made light of our difficulties, occasionally rest-
ing for a while to admire some of the many lovely
bits of landscape chance presented to our eyes, or
to feast on some bush, heavy laden with wild red
currants, which were now ripe and sweet. A
peculiar phenomenon, suggestive of some great
A STJtANGE PHENOMENON. 193
fire in bygone ages, struck me in these forests.
Everywhere, among the younger trees, stood
huge dead giants, gray and leafless, and partially
charred, as if a sudden sea of fire had swept over
them, drying up their sap and destroying their
vital powers, being quenched, however, by some
sudden agency before it had time to destroy their
branches and trunks completely. These gray
skeletons of a bygone age looked weird and
ghastly, standing amid the fresh green trees
around them, and the wind, sweeping through
their branches, produced a dry harsh rattle, which
contrasted strangely with the melodious rustle of
the leafy crests of their comrades.
For three or four hours we worked our way
through the forest, and I never was more as-
tonished at the marvellous powers of endurance
of our horses than on this occasion, to say nothing
of their extraordinary cleverness in scrambling
over the trunks of fallen trees, and in picking
their way through boggy ground, where a wrong
step to the right or left would have been disas-
trous. At last we reached the outskirts of the
wood, all more or less scratched and bruised, and
thoroughly tired with our exertions.
But the peaks were still far off, and the sun
was getting low, and soon another strip of forest
o
i 9 4 'A FAIR Y HA UNT.
loomed ominously in front of us. We resolved,
therefore, to go no farther that day, and accordingly
cast about for some suitable camping-place.
We were not long in finding a little nook
which was admirably adapted to our purpose.
Sheltered by a cluster of moss and grass-covered
boulders, and well fenced in by a circle of shrubs
and trees, we found a fairy circle of soft, velvety
greensward, jewelled here and there with knots
of scarlet verbenas and wild violets. Bubbling
from out among the rocks a silver clear little
stream flowed down its centre, giving just the
slight touch of life and movement required to
make this sylvan retreat as cheerful as it was
cosy, not to speak of its convenience as regards
the kettle.
We soon had our horses unsaddled, and then
Gregorio and Mr. B. set to work to light a fire,
whilst my brother went out with his gun, and I
gathered a capful of red currants, which I mashed
up with sugar, with a view to dessert. By the time
my brother came back, bringing with him a brace
of wood -pigeons and parrots, which were soon
plucked and spitted, the rib of guanaco Gregorio
had set to roast was done to a nicety, and we all
fell to and made a hearty meal, finishing with
the red currants aforesaid.
A FAIR Y HA UNT. 195
Then the men lit their pipes, and the social
mate-bowl went round, whilst we lay watching the
sun setting over the mountains, gilding their peaks
with ever varying tints, and making their snowy
glaciers glow warm and golden under its magic
touch. Far below, at our feet, lay the ravine, with
the river we had so often crossed that day, look-
ing like a winding silver thread in the distance.
Around us reigned perfect peace ; the chattering
flocks of parrots, which had made the woods noisy
during day-time, had gone to their leafy roosts, and
not a breath of wind stirred the silent trees. A
few little birds, who no doubt had their homes in
the chinks of the boulders which formed the back-
ground of our camp, hovered around us anxiously
for some time, till, finding they had nothing to
fear from their strange visitors, they took heart,
and hopped from stone to stone into their respec-
tive lodgings, and, after chirping a note or two,
were silent for the night.
We were not long in following their example,
and rolling myself up in my guanaco robe, with my
head on my saddle, I slept as sound and sweet a
sleep " under the greenwood tree " as ever blessed
a weary mortal. Neither Puck nor Ariel played
any pranks with me ; though, for ought I know,
Titania and Oberon, and their fairy following,
196 WILD HORSES AGAIN.
flying from the sceptical modern spirit which
ignores them, may well have made these secluded
sylvan haunts their own.
We were in the saddle early the next morning,
and, plunging into the woods, pursued our way
through the same difficulties which had hampered
our progress the day before. After a time, however,
we came to a region evidently much frequented
by wild horses, and eventually we hit on a path
worn by them right through the woods, and fol-
lowing this, we jogged along at a very fair pace.
Soon our horses began to neigh and prick up their
ears as we advanced towards a clearing. Their
cries were answered from somewhere beyond us,
and pushing forward into the open, we came upon
a herd of wild horses, who, hearing our advance,
had stopped grazing, and now they stood collected
in a knot together, snorting and stamping, and
staring at us in evident amazement. One of their
number came boldly trotting out to meet us, and
evidently with no pacific intentions ; his wicked
eye, and his white teeth, which he had bared
fiercely, looked by no means reassuring. But
suddenly he stopped short, looked at us for a
moment, and then, with a wild snort, dashed madly
away, followed by the whole herd. They dis-
appeared like lightning over the brow of a deep
THEIR AGILITY. 197
ravine, to emerge again on our view after a couple
of seconds, scampering like goats up its opposite
side, which rose almost perpendicular to a height
of six or seven hundred feet. They reached its
crest at full gallop in the twinkling of an eye, and
without pausing an instant disappeared again,
leaving us wondering and amazed at their marvel-
lous agility. I had often seen their paths leading
up hill-sides which a man could scarcely climb,
but till now that I had witnessed a specimen of
their powers with my own eyes, I had scarcely
been able to believe them possessed of a nimble-
ness and cleverness of foot which would not
discredit a chamois.
From the open space on which we were now
standing we could see a broad lake lying at the
base of some very high hills, behind which lay the
mighty mountain which culminated in the three
peaks we were desirous of reaching, and as a
ravine appeared to wind in that direction from the
head of the lake, we now pushed forward towards
the latter, occasionally profiting by numerous wild
horse paths to expedite our advance. After a
weary scramble of several hours' duration, we
threaded a last belt of forest, blundered and floun-
dered through a last bog, and after a short ride
over a grassy plain studded with bushes, which
198 THE BLUE LAKE.
were literally blue with a profusion of califate"-
berries, found ourselves on the shores of a splendid
sheet of water. The sight well repaid us for
our trouble. The lake, which was two or three
miles broad, lay encircled by tall hills, covered
with thick vegetation, which grew close down to
the water's edge. Beyond the hills rose the three
red peaks and the Cordilleras. Their white gla-
ciers, with the white clouds resting on them, were
all mirrored to marvellous perfection in the motion-
less lake, whose crystal waters were of the most
extraordinarily brilliant blue I have ever beheld.
Round the lake ran a narrow strip of white sand,
and exactly in its centre stood a little green island
with a clump of beeches growing on it. Each
colour the white, the green, the blue was so
brilliant ; the scene the wooded hills, the glaciers
rising into the blue above, and sinking mirrored
into the blue below was so unique, the spirit
of silence and solitude which lay over all so im-
pressive, that for a long time we stood as if spell-
bound, none of us uttering a word. Suddenly we
were startled by a rushing sound behind us, and
in another instant, making the air shake as it went,
and almost touching me with the tip of its mighty
wing, a condor swept past us, rising with rapid
flight up, up, up into the air, we following him
THE CLEOPATRA PEAKS. 199
with our eyes, till he became a mere speck on the
sky, and finally disappeared, thousands of feet up
in the air. This incident seemed to break the
charm that held us silent, and we broke into a
chorus of exclamations of praise and wonder as
every second some new beauty in the scene
before us struck our admiring gaze. Resuming
our journey, we rode along the narrow strip of
beach towards the head of the lake. Occasion-
ally we were forced into the water, as at some
spots there was no beach at all ; but at any rate
we got on much quicker here than we had
up to the present, and in a comparatively short
space of time found ourselves at the head of the
lake. We were close to the three peaks, which
we could now see were parts of the crater of
an extinct volcano the other portions of which
had fallen in, a prey to the action of the weather.
We camped by the side of a little stream which
flowed into the lake. All night long we could
hear the thunder of avalanches, or what, perhaps,
might have been the rumbling of some distant
volcano ; and I found myself nervously expecting
a repetition of the earthquake which had surprised
us so disagreeably at the Laguna Blanca.
In the morning we rode up a tall hill, from
which we could get a good view of the interior.
I
200 THE PROMISED LAND.
At the same time we were able to assure ourselves
that it would be useless, slightly provisioned as we
were, to attempt to penetrate any farther, the
country before us being still more thickly wooded
than that we had already traversed.
For some distance we could catch glimpses
among the hills of bright green valleys, with whose
excellent pastures our nimble friends the wild
horses were doubtless well acquainted ; and farther
on rose a forest of white peaks, one towering above
the other, till the tallest faded, hazy and indistinct,
into the skies. I would fain have dived into their
farthest mystery, but it was not to be ; so, with
a sigh of regret, we turned our horses' heads in a
homeward direction. We got back to the camp
late in the evening, having taxed our horses'
powers to the utmost to accomplish our return trip
in one day. Our account of the wonderful blue
lake and the strange country beyond excited the
envy of those who had remained behind, and led
to a discussion as to the practicability of our enter-
ing the mountains, bag and baggage. But the
difficulties in our way were too many and for-
midable, and reluctantly we were compelled to
abandon this seductive plan.
WE THINK OF RETURNING. 201
CHAPTER XVIII.
WE THINK OF RETURNING GOOD-BYE TO THE CORDILLERAS
THE LAST OF THE WILD HORSES MOSQUITOES A STORMY
NIGHT A CALAMITY THE LAST OF OUR BISCUIT THE
UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS.
A FEW more days spent in the Cordilleras brought
us near the time when it was necessary to begin
to think of returning to Sandy Point. Our pro-
visions were beginning to sink rapidly ; tea and
coffee and sugar we still had plenty of, but the
biscuit bags were getting ominously low, and all
our other dainties had already been consumed ;
and many of our camps were painfully remembered
in connection with this or that article of food, which
had been partaken of there for the last time.
Thus, near " Los Bargnales " we had finished our
last tin of butter ; " Los Morros " witnessed the
broaching of our last tin of preserved milk ; and
here, in the Cordilleras, we ruefully swallowed our
last dish of porridge. Guanaco meat is good, so
is ostrich meat ; good, too, is an open-air, gipsy life
202 WE THINK OF RETURNING.
in a bright climate, with lots of sport and pleasant
companionship ; but the goodness of all these
things is materially enhanced by the accompani-
ment of good cheer, and materially depreciated by
the lack of it. Thus, when our daily menu began
to consist of a series of ingenious changes on the
monotonous theme of ostrich and guanaco meat,
varied only by baked biscuits, our thoughts some-
how began to run in the groove of home ; and we
often found ourselves talking of " dear old Eng-
land " and its roast beef in a strain of affectionate
longing. Somehow the air of Patagonia did not
seem so bracing and inspiriting as at first ; we
began to grow sceptical on the subject of guanaco
and ostrich hunting ; we discovered that the wild
duck were too tame to give real good sport, and
that snipe-shooting in a country where these birds
get up in flocks, is simply a matter of loading and
pulling the trigger. Discomforts and hardships, of
which we once made light, we now began to take
as serious matters, and our tempers, once so sweet
and accommodating, had begun to grow acrid and
touchy. We all felt more inclined to dwell on the
weight of our individual opinions, and less disposed
to value those of our companions. Once we had
avoided discussions, as liable to disturb the har-
mony which reigned among us ; now we welcomed
GOOD-BYE TO THE CORDILLERAS. 203
them as pleasant irritants, and even went out of
our way to provoke them. The result was that
one day, on somebody's suggesting that perhaps
we had better think of returning ; after a little
opposition, as a matter of course (for in our then
mood it was quite sufficient for anybody to propose
a plan for everybody else to immediately gainsay
it), we unanimously agreed that, considering that
we had seen a good deal of Patagonia, consider-
ing, too, that our provisions were nearly ex-
hausted, and that our horses were very stale, it
was better to start at once.
So one morning the packhorses were driven
up, and the familiar occupation of loading them
gone through. It had now become a much
simpler matter than formerly, and we were enabled
to comfort ourselves with the reflection that the
loss in our larder was a gain as regards the time
economised every day in packing up.
Before leaving our pretty camp we carved our
names on one of the trees, and erected a cairn, on
the top of which we left a bottle the only emblem
of civilisation we could spare. Then, mounting,
we turned our backs on the Cordilleras, and set
out towards the ravine we had entered by, whose
name, among the traders, is "The Wild Horse
Ravine." As we were riding along, a solitary
204 THE LAST OF THE WILD HORSES.
horse suddenly appeared on the crest of a hill, and,
after eyeing us for a moment, came tearing down
towards us at a frantic gallop, with a loud neigh,
and perhaps dangerous intentions. Our troop of
horses scattered in all directions ; Gregorio and
FAria got out their " bolas," prepared for emergen-
cies, and we curiously awaited the sequel of the
incident. Nearer and nearer came the untamed
steed, without abating his speed one jot, and
evidently determined to charge right at us. We
began to feel uncomfortable, but put our trust in
Gregorio's deftness, though it was perhaps well it
was not put to the test. When within about ten
yards of us the wild horse suddenly stopped, stood
still for one second, and then turned, and, with two
sets of " bolas " whizzing harmlessly round his
ears, went bounding away as fast as he had come,
never stopping till he reached the top of the hill
he had first appeared on. This was the last we
saw of the " Bagnales."
Late in the afternoon we crossed the ravine
where we had camped before entering the Cor-
dilleras. Here we were assailed by a thick cloud
of mosquitoes, who annoyed us and our poor
horses horribly, buzzing round us, and biting
viciously wherever they could settle. For a time
nothing was to be heard but angry exclamations
MOSQUITOES. 205
and objurgations, mingled with occasional cries of
fiendish joy as one of us succeeded in destroying
half a dozen of our thirsty tormentors with one
slap of the hand. But from the fury of their num-
bers there was no refuge, opposition only increased
their virulence, and those who were fiercest and
most energetic in driving them off were always
surrounded by the thickest cloud. Relief only
came when we got out of the ravine into the plain,
and there one puff of wind swept our enemy clean
away in a second, not one mosquito remaining
to curse at or to kill.
Thankful for our release from this annoyance,
we were not disposed to grumble very much at
the oppressive heat to which we were exposed
during the whole of the day, though the sun beat
down on us from a cloudless sky with overpower-
ing force, and our burnt and blistered faces
smarted painfully under its fiery rays. We
camped that night near a broad lagoon, and for
the next few days continued our journey over the
plains, without anything of note occurring. Hith-
erto we had been pretty fortunate as regards the
weather, and the nights especially, with hardly
an exception, had been calm and fine. But one
march before reaching Coy- Inlet River we camped
in a broad valley, where our experience of Pata-
206 'A STORMY NIGHT.
gonian nights was unpleasantly varied. Shortly
after we had gone to bed, the misgivings which
the threatening aspect of the sky had called up, as
we took a last glance at the weather before turn-
ing in, were more than realised. The wind began
to pipe ominously through the grass, and before
long it was blowing a regular gale. A sudden
squall carried our tents clean out of their pickets,
and sent them whirling through the air. A scene
of the most uncomfortable confusion ensued. It
was pouring with rain, pitch dark, and the wind
was blowing with such force that it was hard to
keep one's legs. Rugs, and clothes, and smoulder-
ing embers were being blown in all directions ;
everybody was blundering about in the darkness,
tripping up over something, or falling against
some one else ; and the howling of the wind, the
rush of the river, the chorus of loud imprecations
in various languages, and the unearthly moaning
and whimpering of the dogs, made up as wild a
scene of noisy confusion as could possibly be
imagined.
Several vain attempts were made to set up
the tents, but the wind was too strong ; and at
last, perfectly drenched through, we had to give
up the attempt, and crawl into whatever furs first
came to hand, to wait till the storm should pass
A CALAMITY. 207
over. This it did not do till about four o'clock
in the morning, just as it was getting light. It
was too late or early to go to bed again then, so
we crept out, sleepy, and damp, and miserable, and
drank hot coffee round a smoking fire, till the sun
got up and warmed us thoroughly.
We were to camp that evening by the Coy-
Inlet River, and as it was a good way off we set
out soon after breakfast. We passed several herds
of guanaco, and also a herd of about eighty or
a hundred ostriches. I had never seen so many
together before. We gave chase to them, but
the dogs got so excited, running first after one
ostrich and then after another, that at last they
all got away. A calamity happened to us that
afternoon. The mare who carried the two little
bags with all that remained of our greatest
treasure our biscuits, suddenly took fright at
something, and galloped wildly away. We
followed her course with anxious eyes and beat-
ing hearts, not daring to go after her, lest it
should aggravate her fears. For a time the pack
sat firmly, and we began to breathe, but even
while we watched, oh, horror ! it began to incline
towards one side, and then gradually slid over.
The moment the mare felt it underneath her she
began to kick out, and galloping quicker and
208 THE LAST OF OUR BISCUIT.
quicker, in a very few seconds she was packless
and pacified. Then only did we gallop forward
to know the worst, and the worst was bad indeed.
A long trail of broken biscuits, sown in the grass,
marked the course the unfortunate mare had
taken, and when we got to the bags only a few
small handfuls remained. We tried to gather
together what we could, but the biscuit, by long
travel, had broken into fine dust, and it was
quite impossible to pick much out of the long
grass it had fallen into. Our last kettle had also
severely suffered in the fracas, a big hole appear-
ing in its side when, after a long search, it was at
last found. Guillaume talked hopefully of being
able to mend it, but failing this desirable consum-
mation, farewell the cheering cup of mate ; fare-
well the morning bowl of grateful coffee ; farewell
content the camp-life's chiefest comfort gone!
Slowly and mournfully we tied up what was left
of the biscuits in a small canvas bag, which
Gregorio secured to his saddle, and then, after
having devoted a quarter of an hour to grazing
on all fours on such fragments as could be found
among the grass, we continued our journey, re-
flecting on the vanity of all things.
We arrived at Coy -Inlet River that evening,
and fording it, camped near the bank. It rained
UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS. 209
again during the night, but as there was little or
no wind, it did not matter much, and excepting
a pervading sense of dampness, we suffered no
great discomfort. Continuing our march that
day over the plains that lay between Coy -Inlet
River and the Gallegos, we saw the smoke of
numerous fires in the distance ; but there was
no response to the fires we lit in answer, and
so we concluded that they were only old fires,
which were still smouldering. The next day
one of our party had an opportunity of prac-
tically testing the value of fires as a means
of signalling one's whereabouts in the pampa.
He had got up early in the morning, and had
gone out on foot at about five o'clock with his
rifle, to try and stalk a guanaco. At ten o'clock
he had not returned. As we had only a short
march to make that day, it did not matter if
we started a little later than usual, so we lay
about, waiting for his return. Eleven, twelve
o'clock came, but still no signs of him. He
had now been away more than seven hours,
and I began to think that something must
have happened to him. We therefore rode up
on the plains to look for him, lighting fires at
intervals, to show the position of the camp, and
anxiously scanning the horizon to see whether
p
2 1 o UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS.
he had also made a fire. But though we rode
about for a long time nothing was to be seen,
and we went back to the camp, wondering what
could have happened. Just as we were in the
middle of a perplexed discussion as to what
steps to take in the matter, to our relief he
suddenly came into the camp, blood-stained and
tired, and carrying the head and ribs of a guanaco
on his back. Shortly after leaving the camp he
had wounded a guanaco, which went off, how-
ever, and led him a long dance for two or three
hours, without his being able to come within
range of it again. In despair, he at last fired a
couple of shots at it from a long range, but,
as it seemed, without reaching his mark. These
shots exhausted his ammunition, our supply of
ball-cartridges being very low, and he having only
allowed himself three rounds. Loath to abandon
the wounded animal, he had followed it pertina-
ciously over ravines and hills, always vowing to
himself that beyond a certain point he would
follow no farther, but always being lured on by
the signs of exhaustion the guanaco was showing,
to go just a little farther. At last he had the
satisfaction of seeing it lie down, and with a
shout of triumph ran forward to despatch it with
his hunting - knife. But at his approach the
UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS. 2 1 1
guanaco jumped up again, and slowly as it ran, it
was enabled to outdistance its relentless pursuer,
who was already thoroughly done up with his ex-
ertions ; but feeling that with patience he must
conquer at last, he felt less inclined than ever to
abandon his prey. Already numerous hawks and
condors were circling over the doomed guanaco,
and the thought that the fruit of his labours
would only go to provide a feast for these hate-
ful marauders was an additional incentive to
persevere. At last success rewarded his efforts.
Waiting till the guanaco lay down once more,
he approached it by degrees, and then, when
within twenty yards or so of it, made a dash
towards it. It stumbled in trying to get up,
and he had just time to rush up and catch it
by the ear, and with a happy stroke of his long
hunting -knife end its sufferings. It was only
when he had cut it up, and laden himself with
the best parts, that he began to reflect that in
the excitement of the chase he had quite for
gotten in which direction the camp lay. He had
followed the guanaco now to the right, now to
the left, often having to run to keep it in view,
and all he knew was that several hours must
have elapsed since he started in its pursuit. He
lit several fires, but he only had a few matches,
2 1 2 UTILITY OF FIRE-SIGNALS.
and the fires unfortunately soon went out, so
that he had no means of showing us his own
whereabouts. However, he struck out in a
direction in which he imagined the camp must
lie, and kept wearily trudging on under his load,
which, tired as he was, he was naturally loath to
part from. After he had gone a good distance
he looked around, and then the skyline behind
him appeared to be singularly like that he
remembered having seen on leaving the camp.
But then the skyline to the left, somehow, had
the same look too. Which was the right one ?
He was just revolving this puzzling question in
his mind, in no very pleasant humour, when he
caught a glimpse of the smoke of the fires we
had lit, and happily not far off, in the direction
he had instinctively chosen from the first as the
right one. The sight gave him new vigour,
and though he had still a good distance to go, he
managed to reach the camp at last, without
having to throw away the meat which had cost
him such a hard day's work.
ISIDORO. 213
CHAPTER XIX.
ISIDORO AN UNSAVOURY MEAL EXPENSIVE LOAVES GUANACO
SCARCE DISAPPOINTMENT NIGHT SURPRISES US SUPPER-
LESS CONTINUED FASTING NO MEAT IN THE CAMP.
WE rode down a broad valley, which led to
the Gallegos River, where we were to camp for
the night. On reaching its farther end we were
suddenly surprised by the sight of an Indian
camp, composed of three tents, which were pitched
on the other side of the river. Having little
curiosity to make the acquaintance of their in-
mates, we continued our journey along the river
towards our intended camp, but Gregorio and Mr.
B. rode over to see them. They rejoined us an
hour afterwards ; Mr. B. had found an old friend,
an Argentine Gaucho, named Isidore, who had
accompanied him on a former trip, and whom,
curiously enough, he had parted from a year
before, on exactly the same spot where he now
met him. I was glad to hear that Isidore was
going to pay us a visit the next day, as I had heard
2i 4 ISIDORO.
a great deal about him, and was anxious to make
his acquaintance. We camped near the river,
seven or eight miles away from the Indian camp,
and consequently, we hoped, rather too far to
attract a call from these people, the disagreeable
experience of their visit whilst we were at Cape
Gregorio being still fresh in my mind.
Early in the morning we saw a man riding in
the direction of the camp, who, I was told, was
Isidore. He presently appeared among us, and,
except for his moustache and beard, and the su-
perior cleanliness of his dress, he might have been
taken for an Indian. He was warmly welcomed
by the guides, amongst whom his unequalled
proficiency in all that pertains to the pampa craft,
and his personal character, had gained him great
prestige. Isidoro did not stop long, as he was
going to hunt with the Indians that day; so, after
having taken a few cups of mate, and smoked a
pipe or two in silence, he said good-bye, and took
his departure.
As he rode away, I could not help admiring his
manly bearing and his perfect seat on a splendid,
well-bred looking horse, which seemed not un-
worthy of its master. He wore his guanaco capa
with a certain foppish grace that one might have
looked in vain for in Gregorio or any of the
AN UNSA VOUR Y MEAL. 215
others, and every article of his accoutrements, from
his carefully coiled lasso to the bright-coloured
garters round his new potro-boots, was perfectly
finished and natty.
After he had gone, my husband and myself
started off guanaco-hunting. We soon, killed a
guanaco, and were busily engaged in the laborious
operation of cutting it up, when we heard a
grunt, and looking up, saw an Indian behind us
on horseback. He watched our clumsy efforts
for some time in silence, occasionally breaking
out into loud laughter, and then dismounting, took
out his own knife, and with a few adroit and easy
cuts, did the whole trick in no time. He re-
warded himself for his labours by cutting out the
kidneys and the heart, and eating them raw and
bloody, there and then ! This disgusting repast
over, he smacked his lips, mounted his horse,
and rode away, grinning eloquently, and leaving
us wondering and horrified.
The evening after our halt at Gallegos we
camped in a stony, rocky region, where there was
very little grass, but plenty of quail, several of
which we shot, though we found them to be very
dry and unpalatable. It poured all the next day,
so we were compelled to remain where we were,
much against our will. To have to lie all day in
2 1 6 EXPENSIVE L OA VES.
a little tent, with a dreary bit of gray landscape to
look out upon, while the rain patters on the can-
vas in a remorseless, dispiriting monotone, is one
of the most severe trials one's patience can be put
to, and ours came very badly out of the ordeal,
Patagonia being by no means complimentarily
alluded to in the course of these weary hours.
However, towards sundown, it cleared up, and we
were able to have a turn and stretch our limbs in
the open air before it got dark.
Two days after leaving this camp we struck
the Indian trail to Sandy Point, and on the third
we camped opposite Cape Gregorio, not far from
the place whence we had made our visit to the
Indians. Here we intended halting for a couple
of days to take in a good supply of meat before
starting for Sandy Point, as neither guanaco nor
ostriches were to be met with, except by a mere
chance, any farther south, and all our other pro-
visions being exhausted, we had now to rely solely
upon the product of the chase for our food.
In the morning two traders passed through
our camp, and we were delighted to find that they
had a small bag of bread, which they were taking
to the Indians. They sold us twenty small loaves,
each about the size of a penny roll, for five pounds ;
and I think they got the best of the bargain, for
GUANA CO SCARCE. 217
the bread was half mildewed and scarcely eatable,
and so heavy, that even the stomach of an ostrich
could scarcely have compassed its digestion with
impunity. Famished as we were, we preferred to
give it to the dogs, who showed their good sense
by turning up their noses at it ; and unless the
foxes rashly experimented upon it after our
departure, for aught I know these expensive
loaves may still be lying in a fossil state on the
Patagonian pampas !
We all went out guanaco- hunting that day,
but were not very successful. I' Aria managed
to run down a young one with his dog, and Mr.
B. shot one ; but as he killed it some twenty miles
away from our camp he could only bring the
head and the two sides, not daring to load his
dead-beat horse with more.
But meat had to be procured somehow, so
next day, whilst the others went on along the
trail with the packhorses, my husband, Mr. B.,
myself, and Gregorio, went out hunting again,
intending to catch up the others before the
evening. We rode for several hours towards
Cape Gregorio, but although we saw several
ostriches, they got up very wild, and pursuit of
them was always out of the question. Guanaco,
there were none to be seen. This was very
218 GUANACO SCARCE.
dispiriting ; if we did not manage to kill anything
here it was still more unlikely that we should be
able to do so farther on. Our companions were
relying on our efforts, and to have to join them
empty-handed would have been in itself vexatious
enough from a sportsman's point of view, apart
from the serious and practical consideration that
we could scarcely go on to Sandy Point, which
was quite three days' march away, without food.
So we kept riding on towards Cape Gregorio, in
the hopes of still being able to find something.
We presently sighted some guanacos grazing
at the base of a ridge of hills, and whilst Gre-
gorio went after an ostrich, which sprang up at
that moment, we three spurred our horses, and
separating, so as to attract as little attention as
possible, rode towards them.
I soon lost sight of my companions, who
disappeared down some of the many gulches
that led to the valley where the guanaco were
grazing. Fervently praying that one of us might
be successful, I hurried on. When I got into the
valley, to my chagrin I saw that the guanaco,
already aware of danger, were moving slowly up
the valley, not at a great distance from where I was,
but still a good way beyond rifle-range. Mr. B.,
who was a long way to the left, was much nearer
DISAPPOINTMENT. 2 1 9
to them, and my husband was in a similar .posi-
tion to the right. As we approached, the guanaco
trotted up among the hills and disappeared. We
had no option but to follow them, entering on the
range of hills at different points, as the herd
would probably scatter as soon as we came close
upon them.
I came upon them of a sudden, and, as I had
surmised, they all broke into different directions.
I took a flying shot at one, but missed, and
presently a report on each side of me showed
that the others had had a shot too. I was
soon joined by my husband, who had also been
unsuccessful, but Mr. B. did not turn up, and
we began to hope that he might have killed
something. We presently saw him galloping full
speed up a distant hill after a guanaco, which was
no doubt wounded, but which seemed to be going
too gamely to admit of our being very sanguine as
to his chance of ultimately getting at it. We
waited for some time, but he did not reappear,
and so we went down into the valley to look for
Gregorio. He soon came in sight, and, unfortun-
ately, as empty-handed as we ourselves were.
Matters were now getting serious. The day was
far gone, and to catch up our companions on
our jaded horses would have been a hard task,
220 NIGHT SURPRISES US.
unless we started at once. We were therefore
obliged to relinquish all hope of getting any
guanaco ourselves that day, our only consolation
being that Mr. B.'s prolonged absence boded
that he at least had been successful.
We waited for him a little, but as he did not
come, knowing that he could find the way to the
place where the others were to camp, we rode on,
lighting fires at intervals, to show our where-
abouts. Our horses were so tired that we could
scarcely get them into a trot, and to our dismay
we suddenly found it was getting dark. The sky
had been clouded all day, and we had had no sun to
judge the time by, the result being that we were
two or three hours out in our calculations. It is
very easy to guess the time within half an hour or
so, under ordinary circumstances, but the excite-
ment of our various runs after guanacos and
ostriches had so absorbed us that the hours had
slipped by unperceived. We thus found ourselves
face to face with the uncomfortable knowledge
that, it being quite impossible to catch up the
others, we should have to go to bed in the
open, and unless Mr. B. had killed his guanaco,
supperless. The unpleasantness of this at any
time disagreeable contingency was increased on
this occasion by the prospect of our getting wet
SUPPERLESS. 221
through into the bargain, for the aspect of the sky
was very threatening, and it was only in keeping
with our day's luck that there should be a down-
pour of rain during the night. But there was
absolutely nothing to be done but give in to
the inevitable as cheerfully as we could, so we
dismounted and unsaddled our horses, carefully
tethering them to some bushes, lest they should
stray away in the night, and then we sat down
to await Mr. B.'s coming, the numerous fires we
had lit on the way making us quite sure he would
be able to find us. But it grew darker and
darker, the tooth of hunger got fiercer and fiercer,
and still he did not come. What could have
happened ? Surely he must have run down the
guanaco, or given up the chase hours ago.
Perhaps he has met with some accident ! That's
impossible ! With these and other reflections we
beguiled the anxious moments, hoping against
hope that before long a goodly rib of guanaco
would be roasting at the blazing fire we had
prepared in rash anticipation of its advent. But
time went on ; already we could scarcely dis-
tinguish the bushes in the distance, the hills
faded away altogether into the darkness, and
our missing companion did not come. Having
strained our eyes blind, peering into the gloom,
222 CONTINUED FASTING.
we now sat silently, straining our ears to catch
the slightest sign of an approaching footstep ;
but our hopes grew gradually fainter and fainter,
and at last we were obliged to give them up
altogether. Gregorio fortunately found a small
piece of guanaco meat in one of his saddle-
bags, which we cooked and ate, a small mouth-
ful being all each of us got. Mingled with
our regrets for our enforced fast were specu-
lations as to what Mr. B. was doing at that
moment. Had he killed his guanaco, and (hor-
rible thought !) was he at that very moment
perhaps roasting its head in the ashes ? or was
he in a worse plight than ourselves, supperless
as well as companionless ? Our thoughts re-
verted to the other party too, who no doubt
were in some anxiety as to what could have
become of us. I did not sleep very sound
that night, nor did my companions, as may be
imagined. Just as day broke the dogs gave
tongue ; there was a crashing among the bushes,
and Mr. B. rode up, with an eager, hungry
look on his face, which boded no good. " Have
you got anything to eat? "were his first words,
to which our despairing answer was, " Good gra-
cious ! haven't you ?" And our faces grew longer
and more disconsolate than ever, as the hopes
NO MEAT IN THE CAMP. 223
of a good breakfast, which had hitherto sus-
tained us, were remorselessly shattered on both
sides.
There was nothing to be done but immediately
saddle and ride off to join our companions. On
the way Mr. B. told us how he had followed
the wounded guanaco till he had run his horse to
a complete standstill, and like us, having been
overtaken by darkness, had been obliged to stop
where he was till morning.
After several hours' ride we got to the place
where the others were camped, and found them
very much alarmed at our protracted absence,
though they had naturally supposed that we had
been taken a long distance out of our way by the
chase. We lost no time in making a hearty meal
on what remained of the guanaco meat, which
being finished, there was no food of any kind in
the camp.
224 THE HORSES LOST.
CHAPTER XX.
THE HORSES LOST UNPLEASANT PROSPECTS FOUND SHORT
RATIONS A STRANGE HUNT A STERN CHASE THE
MYSTERY SOLVED THE CABEZA DEL MAR SAFELY ACROSS
A DAMP NIGHT CABO NEGRO AGAIN.
WE had a short march to make next day, and it
was nearly noon, therefore, when I' Aria started
off on his usual morning task of driving up the
horses.
In the evening, as one may rely on their not
straying very far, the horses are turned loose,
after being unsaddled. In fact, no other method
would be practicable, for if they were kept
picketed during the night they would not be able
to graze, and would soon become useless. As
they all follow the bell-mare, one is always sure of
finding them together, even should they stray
three or four miles in the night, which, although
it does occasionally occur, is quite exceptional.
That, however, this necessity of leaving the
horses at liberty may give rise to considerable
THE HORSES LOST. 225
inconvenience, and possibly bring one into the
most serious dilemmas, we had an opportunity of
discovering at the cost of some anxiety and a day's
hard labour.
After I'Aria had been gone about an hour we
began to wonder at his prolonged absence ; but as
there had been a strong breeze during the night,
it was very probable, as Gregorio suggested, that
the horses had wandered some distance in search
of a sheltered valley. But another hour elapsed,
and still I'Aria did not appear. Guillaume and
Francois then went off in different directions to
continue the search, agreeing to light a fire should
either of them sight the horses.
We in the meantime were left a prey to very
disagreeable reflections, though as yet we had no
strong grounds for fearing the worst. We kept an
anxious watch for the first signs of smoke, especi-
ally in the direction FAria had taken, as he must
have covered five or six miles by the time he had
been gone. To our dismay he presently turned
up, however, very tired and footsore, without
having seen a trace of the horses anywhere.
Matters now began to look really serious, but
we still comforted ourselves with the hope that
Francois or Guillaume would be more successful.
But they too, after a time, came back, bringing
Q
226 UNPLEASANT PROSPECTS.
the same dismal story. The situation looked
gloomy ; a hundred suppositions were hazarded as
to what could have become of the horses. I' Aria
said he had " cut the trail " on the side he had
taken without success, and Guillaume and Francois
having done the same, it was clear that the only
direction in which the horses could have gone
was over the plain at the back of our camp, though
what could have induced them to leave the pas-
turage of the valley for the barren upland it was
hard to understand. Meanwhile there was nothing
to be done but immediately make search for them in
that direction, though our prospects of finding them
seemed small indeed. Should we not do so we
should have to accomplish the rest of our journey
to Sandy Point on foot. We had eaten our last
round of guanaco meat that morning, so that a
four days' walk on empty stomachs, apart from
being an unpleasant undertaking, was one which
it was a question whether our powers were equal
to compassing. We might, it is true, opportunely
meet some trader on the way, from whom we
might obtain provisions ; but, on the other hand,
we might not be so fortunate ; and, on the principle
that it never rains but it pours, we were justified
in considering the latter contingency as the prob-
able one. We commenced our task, therefore,
UNPLEASANT PROSPECTS. 2 2 7
with feelings the reverse of cheerful. Leaving
Storer in the camp, we all went on to the plain,
and started off in different directions towards the
distant hills that bound it. A fire, should any of
us be successful, was to immediately communicate
the news to the others.
With my eyes bent on the ground, eagerly
scanning it for any trace of a hoof mark, I walked
slowly along, occasionally giving a glance over
the plain, in the hopes of seeing the welcome
column of smoke rise up into the air. But
time went on, and my hopes of success grew
fainter and fainter. Gregorio had expressed a
fear that the horses had got on to the Indian
trail to Sandy Point ; and taking to it, had
gone off at a trot towards Cabo Negro, on
whose pastures they were " at home," or " aque-
renciado," as the natives say. The possibility
of their having done so assumed more and more
the feature of a probability, as hour after hour
passed, and I was still only half-way across
the plain, and no traces of the objects of my
search as yet forthcoming. In fact, it seemed
useless to continue plodding on farther, and
instinctively I broke off, and turned to the left,
observing that there the plain ended in a hilly
country, where, although I' Aria had assured us
228 FOUND.
he had searched in that direction, it certainly
seemed more likely that the horses would be,
supposing they had not gone to Sandy Point. It
was a happy inspiration of mine ; I had not gone
half a dozen yards down a grassy ravine before,
turning a sharp bend, I suddenly came upon the
whole troop, quietly grazing at their ease, in
supreme indifference as to the trouble and anxiety
they had caused half a dozen human beings for
the last five or six hours. My first step was to
throw a few lighted matches into the long dry
grass, which I left to do their work, and then, by
dint of some patience and cunning, I managed to
persuade one of the tamest horses to allow me to
get my arm round its neck and effect its capture.
Improvising a kind of bridle from my scarf, I
mounted, and driving the horses together, con-
veyed them towards the camp, not a little proud
and elated at my achievement, which was due
rather to good fortune than judgment, for, had I
followed out the plan of search we had agreed
upon, who knows what the upshot would have
been ? Meanwhile, the matches had had due
effect ; fanned by the breeze, the fire spread
quickly, and soon the ravine was ablaze across its
whole breadth, a mighty column of smoke being
whirled high into the air, carrying, doubtless,
SHORT RATIONS. 229
intense relief into the hearts of my companions,
who were still toiling over the plains.
I soon got to the camp with my charges, and
was thankful to be able to lie down and rest after my
exertions. One by one the others dropped in, and,
as may be imagined, we were all equally elated at
so fortunate an issue of a contretemps, which might
have had the most serious consequences, just on
the eve too, of the conclusion of a trip otherwise
particularly free from dangerous mishaps.
It was too late to set out that afternoon, so we
passed the remainder of the day in trying to shoot
some duck for supper. In the pleasure of finding
our horses again, we were not disposed to grumble
at minor hardships, and cheerfully, therefore, we
endeavoured to make as good a supper off a brace
of small duck, which was all we could kill, as eight
hungry people might be expected to do.
After a cup of coffee next morning we drew
our belts a little tighter, and set out, keeping a
sharp look-out, on the forlorn chance of an ostrich
coming within coursing distance. But during the
whole of that day's march neither beast nor fowl,
save a fox or two, showed itself, and as our appe-
tites, which we had kept in tolerable subjection
during daytime, began loudly to assert themselves
towards sundown, the spirit which reigned among
2 3 o A STRANGE HUNT.
us was by no means a cheerful one. We were
just discussing the faint probability that existed of
our meeting an Indian trader before reaching the
Colony, when suddenly we descried a man riding
along the trail towards us, and driving two horses
before him. With a unanimous shout of delight
we all galloped forward to meet this welcome
stranger, on whose provisions we meant to make
a friendly but extensive raid. But, to our as-
tonishment, on perceiving us, he suddenly drew
up his horse, hesitated for a moment, and then
dashed away over the pampa. Without stop-
ping to inquire what could be the motive of
such extraordinary behaviour, and seeing only
that our chance of supper was vanishing as fast
as four legs could carry it, we all clapped spurs to
our steeds, and galloped after him with as much
alacrity as he had shown. The harder we went,
the more he urged his horse along, occasionally
looking back in a state of evident terror. For
five minutes or so this strange man-chase con-
tinued, neither pursued nor pursuers gaining any
ground on one another, but then we gradually
drew nearer to our quarry, whose horse was
already beginning to show signs of distress. We
were soon within earshot, and called loudly on
him to stop, saying that we were friends. Whether
A STERN CHASE. 231
he heard us or not I don't know, but the effect
of our shouting was that he redoubled his
efforts, and for a time the chase again became
doubtful.
But we were not to be beat ; curiosity to know
this man's motives for running away from us as if
we were wild beasts, combined with an equally
strong desire to obtain some provisions from the
amply filled saddle-bags which were gliding along
in front of us, kept us to our work, and we felt
that till our horses dropped this queer quarry must
be followed. The spurt he had put on soon died
away, and then we crept up to him again, wild
with excitement, and giving vent to some sounding
" view-holloas," which, now I come to think of it,
may have possibly increased the terrors of the poor
man's situation. But everything comes to an end,
even a stern chase, and soon Gregorio was within
ten or twelve yards of the unknown. " Parase
amigo, soy Gregorio," he called out several times,
and at last, feeling G.'s hand on his shoulder, the
man did stop. In a second or two we were all
up, more or less breathless with the run. The
man, with whom Gregorio was now rapidly con-
versing in Spanish, looked very pale and frightened
at first, but gradually the expression on his face
brightened as he listened to Gregorio's explana-
232 THE MYSTER Y SOL VED.
tions, and eventually he even began to smile. We,
meanwhile, eager to know the solution of the
mystery, pressed Gregorio to solve it. It appeared
that this man was a convict, who had escaped
from Sandy Point two days before, and having
" requisitioned " two Government horses, was now
on his way to the Santa Cruz river, on the other
side of which he would be free from pursuit.
When he saw us coming towards him at a gallop,
he had been seized with a sudden panic, thinking
we might want to capture him, and had galloped
off, with the results known.
Of course we could not ask for any of his pro-
visions as he would require them much more than
we should ; so, after exchanging a few words with
him, we left him, and proceeded to rejoin Storer,
who had remained behind with the horses whilst
we had been engaged on our novel hunt.
The incident furnished us with matter for
conversation for a time, but it was not long before
we came back to the more important topic of
food, for we were now all of us really faint with
hunger, and our prospects of getting anything for
the next thirty-six hours were faint indeed.
Our goal that evening was the " Cabeza del
Mar," an arm of the sea which runs for some
distance inland, and which, at a certain point, is
THE CABEZA DEL MAR. 233
fordable at low water if the wind is not blowing
strongly from an unfavourable direction. As we
rode along we caught a glimpse of the sea itself
a welcome sight, and forgetting our hunger for a
moment we gave a loud cheer.
At about seven o'clock, just as it was getting
dark, we arrived at the " Cabeza del Mar." We
found that we should not be able to ford it for four
or five hours ; and as we were anxious to get to
Cabo Negro as soon as possible, in order to break
our prolonged fast, we decided on passing that
night, rather than wait till next morning. Having
relieved the packhorses of their loads we sat
down by the fire and brewed some coffee with
the last spoonfuls that remained to us of that
comfort, and having drunk it, nothing remained
for us but to wait and dream of the meal we meant
to devour on the first opportunity.
We tried to snatch a nap, but few of us suc-
ceeded in doing so, as hunger kept us awake, and
so the hours dragged their slow length wearily
along, whilst we sat and waited for the tide to
serve. To add to the discomforts of our plight,
the sky covered over and the rain began to fall,
and the night got so dark that we almost thought
we should not be able to cross over. However,
the time came when we thought the tide ought
234 THE CABEZA DEL MAR.
to serve, and we rode down to the water to in-
spect matters. Occasionally a moonbeam breaking
through the thick rain-clouds allowed us to get a
glimpse of the rocks in the middle of the water ;
and our guides were thus able to judge the right
moment for making the attempt. There was, as
they said, just the possibility of the water not
being quite low enough to enable us to cross with-
out more or less of a ducking, and besides, in the
darkness, the leader might mistake the way, and
a false step would land us into a rocky bottom,
where we might flounder hopelessly about, and
in all probability get unhorsed, and God knows
what besides.
These considerations served to make us feel
rather uncomfortable when the moment arrived
for us to commit ourselves to the chances that
might be awaiting us in the dark mass of water
which swept eddying swiftly past us, and but for
the acute pangs of hunger we should certainly
have deferred the experiment until daytime.
But no time was to be lost, so, ranging in single
file behind I'Aria, who was acting as guide, we
started the other horses, with Guillaume and
Gregorio driving them, following. For a few
seconds there was a great deal of splashing and
shouting, incidental on the objections shown by
SAFEL Y A CXOSS. 235
the packhorses to take the water ; but soon they
were all in and fairly on their way. Then came
a few seconds' silence, as we drew into deep water,
every one cautiously following his leader, so as to
be able to rein in in time should the latter come
to grief. Suddenly I' Aria gave a cry, and through
the darkness we could dimly see him floundering
about, his horse having evidently lost footing.
After splashing about for some seconds, however,
he got all right again, and calling out to us to
keep more to the left, he moved on. The water
was now up to our knees, and at each step it got
deeper, but fortunately our horses still kept their
footing, and soon the worst was over, and the
bank was reached without any mishap having
occurred.
All the dogs had remained on the other side,
crying and yelling in a gloomy concert, as they
saw us leaving them behind ; but as soon as they
saw us ride up on to the plain, they plunged into
the water, and swam over in no time.
After having counted the horses and examined
their packs, which had all got well drenched, as
we ourselves had, we continued our ride, with the
intention of marching the whole night, so as to
arrive at Cabo Negro in the morning, for we were
now positively frantic with hunger. For a time,
236 A DAMP NIGHT.
notwithstanding the intense darkness, we man-
aged to get along pretty well, but presently we
found that we had got off the trail somehow, and
we had to stop, whilst the guides blundered about
in the darkness, searching for it. Then, after we
had got on to it once more, the horses shied at a
big white stone lying on the road, and bolted in
all directions, and of course had to be got together
again a task which involved nearly an hour's
delay.
Apart from these mishaps, our progress was
necessarily so slow, owing to the darkness, that
we at last came to the conclusion that after all
it would be better to halt where we were, and
proceed at daybreak. Acting on this determina-
tion, we immediately unsaddled, and, too tired to
put up the tents, rolled ourselves up in our furs,
and slept, or tried to sleep, till morning. I think
this was the unpleasantest night of the whole trip.
Faint with hunger, drenched and cold, I could
not get repose, although I felt as tired and jaded
as could possibly be. The ground too, where we
were camped, was stony and hillocky ; and when,
at the first sign of dawn, I crept out of my furs,
my bones were so stiff that I could with difficulty
move, my companions being all in an equally bad
plight. But we were in good spirits for all that.
CAPE NEGRO AGAIN. 237
Four hours' riding would bring us to the wood
of Cabo Negro, and there we should get food in
abundance. Never had the horses been so
quickly saddled and packed as on that morning ;
within half an hour from commencing operations
we were already cantering along the trail.
Scaling the brow of a steep hill we came in
view of the familiar landscape the Straits and the
Cordilleras, and not far off the black patches of
beechwood round Cabo Negro ; and, nestling amid
them, the little farm-house on whose stores we
projected a determined raid.
My brother and Mr. B. now rode ahead in
order to have something ready against our arrival.
After two or three hours' sharp riding they
reached the farm-house, and without speaking a
word rushed off to the kitchen, and laid their hands
on and utterly devoured what was to have been
the breakfast of the farmer and his family. The
farmer appeared on the scene just as they had
swallowed the last mouthful, and it appears being
no doubt used to such strange visits, seemed less
surprised than one would have imagined to see
two dirty wild-looking men sitting uninvited in
his kitchen, who between them had calmly de-
molished the morning meal of a whole house-
hold.
238 CAPE NEGRO AGAIN.
Having thus satisfied their own immediate
wants they applied themselves to catering for
ours ; and to such good purpose that, by the time
we reached our old camp under the beeches of
Cabo Negro, we found a good fire already blazing,
half a sheep hanging on a tree, ready for roasting,
and such stores of bread, eggs, and other pro-
visions as made our eyes glisten and our mouths
water. How we feasted need not be told. I
think very little of that half sheep remained to be
warmed up for supper, and most of the other pro-
visions shared a similar speedy fate.
CABO NEGRO. 239
CHAPTER XXI.
CABO NEGRO HOME NEWS CIVILISATION AGAIN OUR DIS-
REPUTABLE APPEARANCE PUCHO MISSING THE COMING
OF PUCHO PUCHO'S CHARACTERISTICS.
WE had still three days to wait till the date for
the arrival of the steamer, and as we by no means
liked the idea of having to pass them in Sandy
Point, we resolved to remain at Cabo Negro for a
couple of days more, and only get into the colony
in time to settle with our guides, and make our-
selves look a little civilised against going on
board.
But as we were naturally most anxious to
get our correspondence, my brother rode into
Sandy Point to fetch it. He returned, bringing a
bagful of letters and newspapers, and we devoted a
whole afternoon to their perusal, and to discussing
their contents. These letters seemed to bring us
back to the world again, to the world and its
almost forgotten responsibilities, pains, and plea-
2 4 o HOME NEWS.
sures, which but the day before had seemed as
remote to us as if we had quitted the earth
altogether, and were living in some other planet.
How many things seemed to have happened since
we had been away, and how the interest in these
events was magnified, hearing of them as we did,
thousands of miles away from home, after so long
an absence ! Occurrences which, in the bustle and
noise of ordinary existence, would hardly have
excited more than few exclamations of surprise, or
scarcely a passing thought, now seemed to assume
the most important proportions, and were dis-
cussed at inordinate length, and with the keenest
interest. There was a letter from the game-
keeper, telling with interminable prosiness how
cleverly he had surprised, in flagrante delicto,
the man whom he had long and so wisely sus-
pected of poaching; how, notwithstanding every
care on his part, the severe winter had proved too
much for a favourite old setter ; and, thanks to his
efforts, how extraordinary a number of pheasants
there was in the copses, etc. Another from
the head stable-man, with intelligence of a
similar nature from his department; lengthy
documents from the agent, telling how one tenant
couldn't pay his rent, how another wouldn't
though he could, how one lot of cottages required
HOME NEWS. 241
repairing, and how advantageous to the property,
if a fresh lot were built ; the peculiarity of all these
epistles being the predominance of the bad over
the good news. Then were letters telling how
A. had married, and " the very last woman one
would have thought, too ;" how B. had got a divorce,
" and no wonder, one might have seen that all
along;" how C. had gone off to shoot big game
in the Rocky Mountains ; and how D. had merely
gone and shot himself and so forth, and so forth ;
every trivial item affording us a goodly space for
lengthy gossip, a luxury which, since our departure
for the plains, had so signally failed us. It is
only when unable to indulge in it that we find
what an important factor the tittle-tattle and small
talk of ordinary life is, in general conversation.
There were several papers too in our budget,
and we devoured their three-months' old intelli-
gence with no less avidity and eagerness than
that with which we had perused our letters.
That day passed, and the next, and then the
hour came for us to saddle up once more, and
ride in to Sandy Point. As may be imagined, this
time we did not jog along behind the pack-horses.
Leaving these to the care of the guides, to come
on at their leisure, we cantered merrily on alone
along the familiar path by the shore of the Straits.
R
242 CIVILISA TION A GAIN.
As the huts of Sandy Point came in sight, we
began to realise that at last we were getting
back to civilisation, and prospectively to England,
and already plans of what we were to do on
arriving home were formed and discussed. There
was only one night more to pass before setting
foot on board the steamer which was to take us
back to the world ; but so impatient were we, that
even that short time seemed all too long, and we
wondered if it ever would pass.
Soon we were trotting along the streets of
Sandy Point ; and, reaching Pedro's house, dis-
mounted, and found ourselves under a roof once
more ! Pedro, advised of our coming, had pre-
pared breakfast for us, and, without more ado, we
sat down to it. We handled our knives and forks
very awkwardly at first; it required almost an effort
to eat in a civilised manner, and, accustomed of
late to take our meals in a recumbent position, we
by no means felt very comfortable in our chairs.
And now, for the first time, the scales fell from
our eyes, and the sight of the clean table-cloth and
neat room caused us to become aware of our own
personal appearance,, and the enviable " giftie " was
ours, of seeing ourselves as others saw us. The
sight was certainly not a delectable one. Our
looks and garments were not out of keeping with
OUR DISREPUTABLE APPEARANCE. 243
our late life in the pampas, but, surrounded by
cleanliness and civilisation, they were decidedly
out of place. We had performed our ablutions as
often and as thoroughly as circumstances would
permit, but they had not permitted much. The
men of our party, particularly, were unpleasant to
look at. Their hair had grown long and elfin ;
their faces were tanned to a dark red-brown, which
the dust, and the smoke from the camp-fires had
deepened into well black ; and their unshaven
chins were disfigured by a profuse growth of
coarse stubble. Our clothes did not bear close
inspection, the blood of many a guanaco, the
grease of many an ostrich-dinner, the thorn of
many a califate bush, had left their marks ; and,
altogether, a more ruffianly, disreputable lot than
we looked it would, be hard to imagine. But hot
water, soap, and razors, and a change of raiment,
did wonders ; and when, after several hours' hard
work, we met again we were scarcely able to
recognise one another.
We passed the day in settling with the guides,
and in packing up our few traps in anticipation of
the arrival of the steamer early next morning.
Feeling tired, I went to sleep early, but the
comfort I expected from lying between sheets
again was by no means vouchsafed me, and the
244 PUCHO MISSING.
soft mattress and cool sheets, instead of inviting
slumber, seemed to frighten it away. I felt half
inclined to get up and go to sleep on the floor.
However, my eyes closed at last; and from a
dream, in which I was once more chasing the
ostrich in sight of the memorable Cleopatra Peaks,
I was awakened by Mr. Dunsmuir banging at my
door, telling me that the steamer had arrived and
that it was time to be off. I jumped up and
dressed hurriedly, and found all the others ready
to go on board. The luggage had already been
put into a boat, and there was nothing further to
be done but to say good-bye to our guides and
walk down to the jetty to embark.
I had only one regret on leaving Sandy Point.
The day we arrived at Cabo Negro one of our
dogs, called " Pucho," who was rather a favourite
of mine, and whom I wished to take with me to
England, was suddenly missing. Pucho, a peculiar
dog, had joined us under peculiar circumstances at
our camp at Laguna Larga. We were quietly
sitting round the camp-fire after dinner, when
suddenly the dogs jumped up and began to bark
furiously at some unseen enemy. We got up and
peered out into the dusk, but could see nothing,
though it was evident that something there was,
for the growls of our dogs increased in earnestness
THE COMING OF PUCHO. 245
and fury every instant. "A puma!" suggested
somebody, but our horses were grazing quietly,
so it could not be a puma. " An Indian, or some
trader, perhaps !" was another equally unfounded
surmise. What could it be? Here, as if to settle
the mystery at once, the dogs all rushed out of
one accord, and for a few moments we could hear
a terrible snarling and growling going on in the
distance. It came nearer and nearer, and then
the cause of the commotion was explained.
Surrounded by our dogs, who were giving it a
by no means friendly welcome, a strange dog
walked slowly towards the camp-fire. It bore its
tail between its legs, seeming half- humbly, half-
defiantly, to crave admission into our circle.
Its humble demeanour, however, only bore
reference to us, for the defiant manner in which
it occasionally bared its white teeth, and turned
on our dogs whenever they came too near,
showed that it cared little for them. We
called out in friendly tones, and this settled its
bearing for once and for all. It turned round,
made one savage dash at one or two of its tor-
mentors, and then calmly made its way towards
the fire, looked out for the most comfortable
spot, stretched itself leisurely, and lay down with
its head resting on its crossed paws, seemingly as
246 PUCHaS CHARACTERISTICS.
much at home as if it had known us all its life. I
ventured to stroke it, but my advances were
received in a most unfriendly, and, considering its
position of alien outcast, audaciously impertinent
manner, for it snapped viciously at me. But from
the first "Pucho," as we called him, made it a point
of distinctly refusing to be patronised. He joined
us, he gave us to understand, not on sufferance, not
as a suppliant for our favours, not as a guest even,
but as an equal ; and this status he claimed as
regards us only, for as to our dogs, he ignored
them completely, though willing, as subsequently
appeared, to make use of their good services.
He looked sleek and fat, a circumstance which
led us to think highly of his powers of speed, as
it is by no means easy for a dog to run down a
guanaco singly, and most dogs who lose their
master, as this dog had evidently done, soon die
of starvation. We therefore congratulated our-
selves on his arrival, as we hoped he would be able
to afford our own dogs help in the chase. But
we had grievously reckoned without our host.
The next day, on the march, a guanaco was
sighted close to us. Now was the time. "Choo!
choo ! Pucho ! " we shouted, expecting to see him
speed out like an arrow after the guanaco. But
nothing could have been further from his thoughts.
PUCHO'S CHARACTERISTICS. 247
He looked first at us and then at the guanaco for
a moment, not without interest, perhaps, but
certainly without showing the slightest inclination
to hostile demonstration. Then, with another look
at us, which said as plainly as words could, " Well,
that's a guanaco, no doubt, but what then ?" he
quietly trotted on. We were very angry at seeing
our hopes deceived, besides being surprised at his
extraordinary demeanour; but Gregorio, giving the
dog the benefit of the doubt, said that perhaps it
had only been trained to run ostriches, as Indians
frequently teach their dogs to do. This seemed
plausible enough, and our confidence in Pucho was
momentarily restored. Presently an ostrich started
up. Now then : " Choo ! choo ! Pucho ! " was the
excited cry again. All the other dogs flew out like
the wind after the bird, and Pucho followed them.
But only at a trot, and apparently merely to judge
how the other dogs behaved, for he soon stopped,
and contented himself with watching the chase
till it disappeared from view, and then he leisurely
came back to his usual post at my horse's heels.
Everybody was enraged with him ; Francisco
suggested that being a "bouche inutile," Pucho
should be knocked on the head with the bolas ;
but I could not hear of this, and Pucho's life was
spared. And so he remained with us, and I had
248 PUCflCTS CHARACTERISTICS.
ample opportunities for studying his peculiar
character. As on the first day, so he continued.
Although generally there or thereabouts when a
distribution of the spoils took place, he never once
helped the dogs in the chase. That this did not
arise from inability or want of speed, but rather
from a sense of his own superior dignity, was
shown by the fact of his once having been seen to
pursue and catch a fox, a feat none of our other
dogs were capable of. Amongst other peculiar-
ities he had a way of mysteriously disappearing if
the day's march was too long. " Where is Pucho ?"
was a frequent cry, and " Thank God, he's gone
at last!" was an ejaculation often heard on these
occasions. But so sure as the guanaco-rib for
dinner was done to a turn, the soup ready, and
the fire blazing comfortably, so sure would Pucho
suddenly appear on the scene, look out for the
most cosy spot near the fire, and cheerfully await
his supper, as if nothing had happened.
When, therefore, he was missing at Cabo
Negro, I took little notice, thinking he would be
sure to turn up. But dinner-time came, and no
Pucho ; nor did he appear again, even when we
went on to Sandy Point.
This was the thought that was troubling me
as I walked down to the pier, for I had taken a
HOMEWARD BOUND. 249
liking to this dog, or I had better say I held him
in reverential awe ; for I think he would object
himself to the term " like," as savouring of patron-
age. Half absently, therefore, before going down
the ladder into the boat, I turned round to take a
last look for Pucho. Surely that is a dog coming
down the street, I thought, as I looked up ; and
right enough it was a dog, and what is more,
Pucho himself! There was no mistaking the
calm mien, the leisurely trot. He picked his way
along the battered pier, half wagged his tail as he
saw me a great condescension, and then, without
a moment's hesitation, led the way down the
ladder into the boat, much to the surprise of my
companions, who had thought and hoped that
they had really seen the last of him.
I took him, or rather he came to England
with me, and as I write this he is sitting in the
cosiest corner by my fire, a privilege he allows
my pet terrier to share with him, an act very
foreign to his usual nature, and one for which I
have never been able to account.
So here we are on board at last. We say
good-bye to Mr. Dunsmuir, the anchor is weighed,
the screw goes round, and we are off. Sandy
Point disappears from view ; one by one Cape
R 2
RETROSPECTION.
Negro and Cape Gregorio are passed, and
before I know it so engrossed am I in the
thoughts that crowd into my mind at the sight
of these well-known points we are abreast of
Cape Virgins. It fades again astern, there is
no land on either side, and Patagonia, bleak and
silent and solemn, with the days we spent on its
mysterious shores, is behind us.
As I write, these days come vividly to my
mind again, and in fancy I once more behold
that distant desert land, the land of the lonely
plains, where the guanaco and the ostrich and the
Red Indians roam far from the ken of mankind,
and where I spent a careless, happy time, which
I can never forget. I remember the days when,
after a long and weary ride, I slept, pillowed on my
saddle, the open sky above me, a sounder and
sweeter sleep than I had ever slept before ; I re-
member those grand mountain-scenes, where we
traced the wild horse to his home, through beech-
wood glens, by lonely lakes, by mountain torrents,
where no mortal foot had ever trod before me. I
remember many an exciting chase and many a
pleasant evening spent round the cheery camp-fire.
I remember, too, many a discomfort the earth-
quake, the drenching rains, the scorching sun, the
THE END. 251
pitiless mosquitoes, and the terrible blasting winds.
But from the pleasure with which I look back on
my wild life in Patagonia, these unpleasant
memories can detract but little. Taking it all
in all, it was a very happy time, and a time
on whose like I would gladly look again.
THE END.
Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh.
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Wild Mike.
By FLORENCE MONTGOMERY,
Author of ' Misunderstood ' &c.
HI
A Blue Stocking.
By Mrs. ANNIE EDWARDES,
Author of ' Archie Lovell ' &c.
VII
A Rogue's Life.
By WILKIE COLLINS.
VIII
A Victim of the Falk Laws.
The Narrative of a German Priest.
IX
A Vagabond Heroine.
By ANNIE EDWARDES, Author
of ' Ought We to Visit Her ? '
My
By Mrs. GODFREY, Author of
' Dolly, a Pastoral.'
XI
IV
Ralph Wilton's Weird.
By Mrs. ALEXANDER, Author of | Archibald MalmaJSOn.
'The \Yooimr o't' &c. IJy J ULIAN HAWTHORNE.
As He Comes up the Stair.
By the Author of ' Comin' thro 1
the Rye.'
Five Years' Penal Servitude.
By ONE WHO HAS ENDURED IT.
Twilight Stories.
By RHODA BROUGHTON.
XIII
The Mudfog Papers, &c.
By CHARLES DICKENS. (Not
hitherto republished. )
To be obtained at all Booksellers'.
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY
