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DESCRIPTIVE
GEOGRAPHY OF PAIESTINE.
. A
DESCRIPTIVE GEOGRAPHY
BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH
BY SABBI JOSEPH SCHWARZ,
BIXTiaX TBARB A KKIDBIT IR TBI HOLT L
ISAAC LEESEK,
-ILLUSTRATED WITH XAP8 AND NDIEBOtIB EDORATINQS
PHILADELPHIA;
PUBLISHED BY A. HAET,
LAtl GARIT AND HAST.
6610-1860.
Entered, aooording to Act of Congress, in the year 1860,
B T A. U A B T,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pcnnnylranla.
pbiladilpuia:
c. bhirman, printer.
TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.
In sending this new publication out to the world, I have but little to
say, farther than that I have endeavoured to render the author's ideas as
faithfully as was in my power. I had before me, for a great portion of the
work, a printed Hebrew copy and a German translation in MS., the latter by
various persons, and in part by the learned author, who, however, revised
the wholer before it was put into my hands. Notwithstanding the abun-
dance of aid thus afforded me in my task, it was very difficult to do it
full justice ; as the great diversity of style naturally resulting from the co-
operation of at least three persons must leave a translator often greatly
perplexed. At the same time the German not rarely differed materially
from the original, which also is composed not in pure Hebrew, but in
the mixed dialect so usual among modem Jews ; which, from the little op-
portunity I have had, is not so familiar to me as it is to those who have
been thoroughly conversant with our modem literature by a constant pe-
rasal of the later authors of our people, and by a personal intercourse
with the writers themselves. None but those who make the attempt to
be their own teachers in any branch of science can know the difficulty
one has to surmount, if a competent guide is not to be obtained occasion-
ally to help the student forward. It is, therefore, highly probable, that
Tl
TRANSLATORS PREFACE.
others might haTc done the author more jnatice ; bnt it is also not nn-
libelj thttC they would have liLckcd some other quidificatioa nhich was
requisite to execute the task dow before the reader.
Whenever possible, I Terified the author's references, and I thus gave
the spelling of the names ivith all attainable accuraey ; in other instanees
I was not so fortunate; and hence it ia not unlikely that some little
errors may be discovered here and there, which were unavoidable, as
the temporary residenoe of the author in New York prevented mo from
consulting him on nil occasions iu person, even where his adviee may
have been ueeded ; and those familiar with literary labours can CBAily
imagine that epistolary intercourse would have been too tedious for the
elucidation of any difficulty which at the moment might have presented
itself. I had, therefore, to depend on my own judgment, occasionally
corrcctiDg what I thought a little erroneous; and when I deemed a state-
ment donbtful, or not clearly understood, I put a note of interrogaliun in
parentheses, thus (F), to call the attention to the circumstances, that the
translator did not fully eomproheud the author. Should the work ever
be reprinted, these blemiahos, together with any errors* in spelling the
immense number of names entirely new to me, will be readily corrected;
in the mcuuwhile, the reader's indulgence is asked, should he have occa-
sion to censure once in a wliile my incompetency in ho severe a labour as
this has proved to me, — far greater, indeed, than I had anticipated.
I would merely remark, tbat occasionally I observed a diversity in
spelling the same name in different parts of the author's book aa printed
at Jerusalem and the MS. prepared by him, or under his inspection. In
choosing, therefore, one or the other, my judgment may have been at
fault. But let me not be blamed for this, or accused of too great an igno-
rance of the subject; for it is one thing to know the principal outlines
• I ironld inoiilen tally call attention to the following errors whicb I have dis-
covered: p. 84, loat line, rend " Tanturn, or Dnrdura;" p. S6, 1. 16 from
bolloBi, "Ulami" p. 89, 1. 10 from bottom, for "as" road "or;" p. 42, in note
line i, road "Balad;" p. 76, I. 9 from bottom, road "Bus al Ahi«t:" p. 269,
the iuacription should be in a continuooa paragraph with what precedes and
followB it, thus, " Arabic inscription, Srmuan. &c., that in, &c. ;" p. 271, I. 14
Irgm lop, for ■' Rnbbi Mcir De Rusai," read " Rabbi Aiarinh De Boasi."
translator's preface. vii
of the geography of a country^ enough for general purposes, — and quite
another to be familiar with every little locality in any land, especially
one so remote as Palestine. Hence the subject was generally as new to
me as it is to the reader, and I had to study it as I went along. Still, I
trust that no great or glaring errors will be discoyered ; at least I took all
possible care to avoid them, and to indicate my doubts where I thought
the original perhaps erroneous.
As regards the style, I purposely adhered as closely as possible to the
author's words, in order to convey his meaning with the most scrupulous
exactness. A freer version might have been more agreeable to the ear ;
but, in famishing it, I would most likely have failed to give a correct
transcript of the original.
The citations from Josephus are according to a copy the author had
before him, which differs, as is evident, materially from Whiston's in the
arrangement of the various books, chapters, and sections. Where I was
able, without too great a search, I followed the usual copies ; where this
was not possible, I copied the author. The same is the case with some
other quotations. I state this merely to advertise the reader that he
must not suppose an error has been committed in case the book, chapter,
&c., differs from that indicated in the work he is familiar with.
In proper names, where they is to have the English sound, I have pre-
fixed a d, thus dj; in all other instances, it should be pronounced as ^ in
yes, or the liquid i. The diphthongs ai, or et, should be sounded as ay
in the monosyllable Ay, that is, a little broader than the long English t.
The a itself sounds when long like a in art, or short as in father. The e long
as a in bale, or short as e in met. The % long as e in me, and short as %
in pin. The u long is sounded like oo in noon, and short as u in /uU,
The consonants have pretty much the sounds of the usual English letters,
except that tli is always to be pronounced as t, the h being merely added
to point out the derivation from Tav, whereas simply t is generally derived
from Teth. G is always hard as </ in go. Z, when derived from TzaM,
should of right be sounded as t%, or tz, which is the proper sound of
Tzad6, otherwise it stands for Zain, which corresponds in sound with the
English z, or % at the end of a syllable. The Ayin, not being readily
represented by English letters, has been omitted, and occasionally only
viii translator's preface.
an npoBtropbe has been put iu its place, titiu ' Uim. Ch etande for the
guttural Cheth, as in tho Scotch Loch, and should, therefore, not be pro-
nounced as fn/i, the usual English sound, which is not found in Hebrew.
Where V. diphthong is marked nith n diuresis, it should be pronounced as
two syllables, thus Snr read my-cer, &c. The final c should not be pro-
nounced mute, but always as open n, thus Bnf, like Bnay. The syllable
aim, which occurs fretiuently at the end of a word, should be pronounced
sa ah-i/iin ; and generally speaking, when two vowels come together,
they should be divided into two syiiables, though not marked as such;
JlfelV as May-eer, Beeroth as Be-airoth, &c.
It is, however, next to impossible to convoy aceumtely Hebrew sounds
by the English alphabet ; and these few directions are merely given to
indicate the system I have pursued, and to give the reader some general
idea of the proper pronunciation.
It would ill become mo to speak much of tlie merit of a work on which
I have been engaged for more than sii months. But nevertheless, I
hazard little in saying, that despite of some defects, it is one of the most
useful books which have appeared for some time, and I trust that the
learned author may reap from it all the benefits he so fondly anticipates. I
have seldom deviated from his views, and it is only rarely that I added any-
thing in text or note, or omitted a passage here and there. But nearly all
such additions are enclosed in brackets, or marked translatob, a privi-
lege which the author granted mo ; and the omissions were only of some
redundancies, not required for the understanding of tho subject. The exe-
cution of the whole, in a mechanical point also, wilt no doubt give satisfac-
tion, the more so, as the whole is the work of Jewish writers and artists,
tho drawings being eseouted by Mr. S. Shuster, a lithographer belonging
to our nation, and whose work cannot fail to please. The maps alone are
executed by non-Israeli lea; but they, as well as the printing, have received
my own superintendence,' and I have done all as faithfully as I was able.
The publication has been undertaken by Mr. Hurt, who is at the whole
expense of it, and this Ik assurance enough that nothing has been omitted
to do justice to the work.
It is to be hoped that this book may contribute to extend tho know-
lodge of Palestine, and rouse many t-o study the rich treasures whieh our
translator's preface. ix
ancient literature affords, and also to enkindle sympathy and kind acts for
those of our brothers, who still cling to the soil of our ancestors, and
love the dust in which the many saints of our race sleep in death awaiting
a glorious resurrection and an immortal life.
I.L.
Philadelphia, Tamax 25th, 5G10.
AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
1 degrue of interest ha§ been excited in modem times
towards Palestine, to an extent scarcely ever before attained. It issaes
fortb, aa it were, out of its devastation of more than eighteen eentnriea
standing; and people seek to reanimate it through tlieir invesligatioiis
and discoveries. The learned contend for the priEO of contributing the
most to its elucidation bj discoveriog und tracing out the vestiges of an-
tiquitj which it offers ; and it is therefore constantly visited and travelled
over by the well -informed of all nations. How much more ardently, then,
must the erudite man belonging to the house of Israel feel on the sub-
ject ! For should not Israel march in the advance, and servo in this
matter as an example to other nations 7 or shall it, to whose ancestor
God said (den. liii. 15), " For the whole land which thou scest I will
give nnto thee and thy seed for ever," receive an account of its possea-
siona — for Its property the land remains, long as the time may be that its
claim is not acknowledged, and its rights usurped by the hand of power —
&om the mouth of others ?
As I now happened to live in contentment in the Holy City, this
thoQgbt became the more active in me, since I had the opportunity to
furnish much, more indeed than any other in this respect; because I wa«
constantly on the spot, and had a knowledge of the languages which are
necessary to carry on the discoveries and investigations, and was tolera-
bly familiar with Hebrew literature, the most extensive and reliable
source in this field of inquiry ; and I was thus in a position which pro-
liu5ed me much assistance in my laboars.
I call Hebrew literature the most extensive and reliable source ; and,
Ml AUTHOR S PREFACE.
in truth, it ia thi§ in every respect; and whoever cannot draw his infor-
mation out of it ia hia investigation a, must remain unacquainted with
much, even the most intcrestiiig matter, and will therefore fail in bJB
diacoveries. It hcnee results, that, deapite the sagacity of so many tra-
vellera, much hoa remained unknown ; for instAncc, no one could hitherto
indicate where to look for the Mount Hor, in Norlhem Palestine ; Rib-
lah, Kadcsh-Barnea, Azmon, Katath, Nahollul, Shimron, Rakkath, &c, ;
aince all the learned were unacquainted with the circumstanee, that all
tbcae names were changed at a later period, aa we sec mentioned in Tal-
mud Yeruahnlmi, and since the names into which they were changed are
existing to thia day. In this way, therefore, heiug able to draw from the
aource indicated, I have been permitted to discover nearly a hundred
names which bad hitherto remained unknown. It farther atruck me,
that we had no manual which could aid ua in clueidating the book of
Joshua, either in reading or teaching it ; so that several cbaplcrs arc
almost left unread, and not explained in instructing. Fartbermore, I
found that several paasugca arc ineorrectly translul«d ; and bow, in good
Mth, can one expect from the loarncd of the West a correct explaimtion
of the nature of the Orient ? and who should feel more intereatod in the
matter than one belonging to the houac of Israel 7
I therefore applied myself to compose u new geography, and I can freoly
flatter myself that this work does not resemble the many modern jour-
nals of the constantly augmenting visits to Palestine, in which are re-
peated, ogain and again, the old and already known facts, which are only
dressed up with a somewhat changed fashion ; but rarely do you find a
new discovery, only some entertaining particulars, which have no value
to the scholar; and all the author cxhibita to the world is, that be too
has travelled through the Holy Land. This work, however, is at the
same time instructive, and may be viewed as a conimentaty on the
geitgrapbieal passages of the Bible, and by no menus as a description
of a journey of three or four months' duration, — but ua the result of
investigations and discoveries continued for many years with the greatest
care, with many socrificea, and not rarely wilh much personal danger.
I have likewise not loat sight of the labours of all preceding
scholars; since I am acquainted with nearly ul! the works concerning
author's preface. xiii
Palestine, from Flavius Josephus to the books of the most modern times;
especially the celebrated work of Upland, who cites accurately the descrip-
tion of Palestine by Eusebios and Hieronymus.
I have also derived much information from the Arabic version of the
celebrated Saadiah Gaon, edited at Constantinople in 5306 (1546), and
the Persian version of Rabbi Jacob bar Joseph Tawas; likewise from an-
other unknown edition of Saadiah of the whole Bible canon, all of which
enabled me to elucidate several geographical names. I may say the same
of the very rare work, Caphtore Yapherach^ of Astori Pharchi, in which
he gives a description of Palestine.
Having now undertaken to describe the geography of the Holy Land,
it struck me that it might be advisable to give a brief account of the
physical nature and history of the country, as also my studies with regard
to many names beyond Palestine occurring in the Bible and Talmud,
many of which are quite unknown, whilst others are shrouded in a great
deal of obscurity; and I trust that I have rendered some little service in
this department.
In conclusion, I cannot avoid blaming my fellow-Israelites for their
neglect of this beautiful science, since they display so little interest in
our country, even in a scientific point of view; and whilst they are so
careful to instruct their children so accurately in the situation and nature
of strange and distant lands, for instance Siberia, Australia, South Africa,
&c., they appear ashamed to impart to them any information concerning
Palestine and Jerusalem. But God has said: '^ I will heal thee again,
and cure thy wounds, because they called thee the forsaken, and it is Zion
for which no one careth." (Jeremiah xxx. 17.)
I, therefore, hope that my laborious efforts may attain their aim, by
exciting interest and love for the Holy Land and its inhabitants, in the
hearts of my brothers.
Jerusalem, in the month of Sivan, 5606.
ERRATA.
Page 17,
20,
24,
29,
32,
84,
84,
86,
86,
42,
49,
51,
51,
55,
64,
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78,
86,
95,
96,
97,
97,
97,
99,
100,
102,
116,
116,
117,
181,
186,
151,
161,
157,
168,
160,
162,
168.
8th line from top, after <* again," add « in Dent xi. 24."
18th
20th
5th
9th
2d
15th
4th
l8t
It
<i
<(
II
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11
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9th
let, and 5th
let
12th
17th
7th
9th
15th
6th
9th
7th
15th
14th
4th
12th
11th
16th
5th
12th
7th
11th
8d
16th
8th
11th
8d
8th
16th
2d
18th
II
II
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li
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It
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II
for "K^ina '^^o T3f" read "*7?13 nn 'rv."
for "foL 40, a," read "fol. 8, a."
for " (King's spring)" read " (salt spring)."
bottom, for *< Belad al Shem," read *< al Sham."
and other places, for *' Dantora," read ** Tantnra."
for ^Persashath," read ^Perashath."
for «* Merds," read " Merdj."
and page 87, 8d line from top, for << Tukrath,"
read *<Jakrath."
for " the Great Sea," read ** the Sea of Chams."
for " Keifa," read " Cheifa."
top, and elsewhere, for *< Ladschinin," read "Cjinin."
" for " Al Pacha," read " Al Phacha."
bottom, for "Nakhara," read *<Nakhara."
« for " Keber Mosheh," read ** Mosa."
top, for "Kaplar Saba," read <*Kephar Saba."
bottom, for *' of Chamas," read << Chamam."
top, for " Wady Sana," read «* Sheria."
bottom, for <*Mahmash," read ^'Maresha."
for «Beth Chanin," read «Beth Chanina."
for "of Zaba," read "of Zuba."
for " Kirxi or," read " Kiry6 a."
for "east of the," read "south of the."
for " Zaara," read " Zareah."
for "«rp," read "nj'p."
bottom, for "Moladah," read " Milh."
top, for " Zamea," read " Zanua."
bottom, for " Rashia," read " Rachia."
top, for " Eefar Sephnri," read "Tillage of Suaphir."
" for " chap. 61," read " chap. 67."
bottom, for "Beth Naba," read "Beth Nuba."
for "Kama," read "Kama."
for "Salin," read "Salem."
for "Pretha," read "Phretha."
and next page, for " A^jar," read " Askar."
bottom, for "Al Sanin," read " Al Sania."
" for " Bir Namar," read " Bin Namr."
for "Athlot," read " Athlit."
for " Un al," read " Um al."
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
II
XVI ERRATA.
Page 169, 8d line from top, for "B. Shirian," read " Shiriin."
** 172, 10th " bottom, for ** KcUah al," read ** Kullat al."
** 172, 12th " '* for "Simmiada," read "Simmaniada."
** 174, 6th " top, for " Feralthi," read *« Ferathi."
" 177, 6th " ** for " Jorephah," read " Jurpath."
" 178, 2d " ** and elsewhere, for " Feradi," read " Ferathi."
"179,10th ** " for ** jnSn," read " pT^n."
** 179, 8th " bottom, for "nDHB^X tOPK^Kj" read **nDnK7« KJn-DI."
" 183, 9th " " for "Kudes," read *• Kedes."
" 189, 10th " " for "of Mezobaia," read "of Zobaia."
" 189, Ist " top, for "SlJlTD," read "^ijio-"
"189,11th " " for "Vayichbach," read "Vayishlach."
" 194, 11th " bottom, for "D'73Ki" read "3'13«."
" 196, 10th " " for "niS^O," read "nSl^D-"
" 197, 16th " top, for "R. Adimi," read " Abdimi."
" 200, 7th " bottom. The section beginning, "But it," &c., belongs
to the next word, " MazL"
" 206, 7th " " for " north of Jerusalem," read " south of J."
" 212, 17th " " for "Djab," read "Dehab."
" 216, 2d " " for "En Masrak," read " Mafrak."
" 280, 4th " " for " p;?D," read " po;?."
" 230, 16th " " for "-!^;;%" read "ni;;'."
" 236, 16th " top, for "of Armon," read "Admon."
" 236, 1st " bottom, for " ijd3»" read "-tjio^."
" 248, 4th " " for " Sn," read " m."
" 269, 8d " " for " ^7^3 On;?on," read " 'Di;?Dn SnO-"
" 274, 16th " top, for " Snan," read "^nj."
" 288, 7th " " for " Akra," read " Akko."
" 289, 19th " " for " Konpud," read " Kanfut"
" 291, 6th " bottom, for " Zbe," read " Zaaba."
" 298, 1st " top, for " Fawas," read " Tawas."
" 298, 8d " " for "of Malacca," read "Malabar."
"804,11th " " for "AlRiman," read "Rimun."
" 306, 10th " bottom, for "Balul," read "Balut."
" 811, 16th " top, for "DjUlan," read " Djilban."
" 811, 6th " bottom, for " Kafar," read " Kapar."
" 812, 10th " " for " Hindir," read " Hindib."
" 812, 19th " top, for "Kulwasi," read " Kalwasi."
" 818, 7th " bottom, for "Kalaf," read " KaUf."
" 818, 6th " " for " Sartab," read " Samub."
" 814, 12th " top, for " Assar," read " Asfar."
" 816, 4th " " for " Pua," read " Phua."
" 816, 12th " bottom, for " Akul," read " Akub."
" 848, 18th " top, for " of the Mameluks," read " of the Greeks."
"848,19th " " for "Zoar," read" Zoan."
" 869, 8th " bottom, for " 6071," read " 6171."
" 891, 1st " top, for " 1817," read " 1819."
" 489, 16th " " for " Mushnem," read " Moshnon."
■
B
1
1
^^^r
CONTENTS.
1
^^B
PART I.
1
^^^v
CHAPTER I.
1
^^p
THE BODNDAIUES OF PALESTINE.
_■
Esplimstion of the BoundtuieB,
^ ^H
Tin; Bouiidni^ of Palatine after tlie Exile under Ezra
ana Ne.
^^1
hcmiah,
CHAPTER II.
1
EXPLANATION OF
THE SEAS, HIVERS, MOUNTAINS, AND
YALLETS OF ^^^
PAiESTlNE.
■
Liikee—
■
De»lSea,
41 H
Sea of Chinueretb, ....
45 H
Waters of Meronij ....
47 H
lUvcra —
■
Jordan,
48 H
Kiabon, .
49 H
Kanah,
50 H
Cberitli, Shichc
ir-hiiinath,
51 H
Besor; Kidron
and Siluah ; Goena, .
1
^
62 1
Xviii CONTENTS,
Riyers to the East of the Jordan —
Jabbok, .... . . 52
Amon, Zered; Tarmuch, Amanah, ... 53
Pharpar, . .54
The Principal Mountains of Palestine —
Lebanon, .55
Hermon, ...... 56
The Principal Rivers of the Lebanon —
Al Azy, ...... 57
Wady Chasmeia, Nahr Abraim, the Aleud, the Kelb, 58
The Tamur (Al Kadi), the Zabirani, ... 59
The Principal Places and Districts of Lebanon, . .59
The Mountains of Galilee, .... 68
The Land of Galilee (Upper and Lower Galilee), 69
The Mount Tabor, ..... 71
The Plain of Jezreel, . .72
The Mount of Ephraim, ..... 73
Mount Carmel, . .74
The Mountains of Judah, .... 75
The Plains on the Shore of the Mediterranean —
The Plain of Akko, 76
The Plain of Carmel to Gazza, .77
The Plain of the Jordan, .... 78
CHAPTER IIL
A DESCRIPTION OP THE DIVISION OF PALESTINE AOGORDINQ TO THE
TERRITORIES OF THE TWELVE TRIBES, AS GIVEN IN THE BOOK OF
JOSHUA.
The Thirty-one Kings (Joshua xii.), . .83
The Possessions of the Tribes in General, ... 92
Judah, ........ 93
The Towns in the Portion of Judah, ... 99
The Towns of the Southern part, .99
CONTENTS.
The Lowland, or the Yalley, .... 101
The Towns in the Mountains, .... 104
The Towns in the Desert, .... 108
The Towns mentioned in the Talmudic Writings, 116
The Towns mentioned in the Book of the Maccabees, 119
The Towns in the Land of the Philistines, . 120
Simeon, ....... 123
Benjamin, ....... 124
Cities of Benjamin, ..... 125
1/an, ........ Itfo
The Sons of Joseph, ..... 145
Menasseh ....... 148
Names of the Towns of the Sons of Joseph, 149
Ramah in the Mountain of £phraim, Ramathaim Zophim, 152
Other Towns, ...... 158
A brief Review of the Possession of Menasseh, and of the
Sons of Joseph in general, .... 163
Issachar, ....... 164
Names of Places in the Portion of Issachar occurring in the
Talmudic Writings, ..... 168
Zebulun, ....... 170
Naphtali, ....... 180
Asher, ....... 190
The Position of the Territories of Naphtali and Asher, 204
CHAPTER IV.
PALESTINE BETONO JOEDAV.
Nature of the Country in general, .... 207
£dom, ....... 2Uo
Itinerary of the Israelites, . . • . . 211
Moab, ....... 216
CONTBNTS.
Midian^ Eenites^ Anudek^ ..... 218
Bashan^ ....... 219
Possessions of the Tribes of Reuben, Gad^ and half Menasseh, 224
Oilcad; ....... 224
Reuben, ...... 225
Gad, ....... 230
The Position of the Possessions of Gtul and Menasseh, 235
Menasseh, ....... 236
Addendum, ...... 237
CHAPTER V.
JERUSALEM.
Its Former and Present Condition —
Situation, ...... 238
The Gates, ....... 241
Walls, ....... 248
Moriah (Mekom Hamikdash), .... 259
Mount of Olives, ..... 263
The Spring of Siloah, .265
The Spring of Etam or Nephtoach, . 268
Pools, ....... 271
The Fort Kallai, ..... 273
Inhabitants, ...... 273
Some Account of Synagogues and Schools, 274
The Synagogue of the Ashkenazim, . 277
Postscript to the Synagogue of the Sephardim, . 283
The length of days in Palestine, . - . . 283
CONTENTS.
PART 11.
OF THE PBODUCTS OF PALESTINE IN THE ANIMAL, THE VEOETABLE, AND
MINEBAL KINGDOMS.
Introduction,
285
CHAPTER I.
ANIMALS.
Class I. Mammalia,
n. Amphibia,
m. Birds,
IV. Insects, .
V. Worms,
VI. Fish,
286
293
296
298
301
302
CHAPTER II.
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.
Cereals, .
Forest Trees,
Plants, .
306
306
309
CHAPTER III.
BflNERALS.
Earths— Clay Soil,
Stones,
Salt&— Naphtha,
Metals,
Mineral Springs,
318
320
321
322
323
XXU CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Description of the Climate of Palestine^ .... 325
Snow, ....... 326
Earthquakes, ...... 329
State of the Temperature, Weather, and Vegetation of the
whole Year, according to the succession of the Months, 330
PART III.
A SHORT HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
Introduction, ....... 332
A short Review of the different Goyemments in Palestine, 333
Period I. From the Destruction of Jerusalem to the Maho-
medan Era, .... 334
n. From the Accession of the Mahomedans to that of
the Europeans, .... 345
ni. From the Reign of the Europeans to Sultan Seli-
man, ..... 354
IV. From the Reign of Seliman to the Present Time, 370
A short Description of Hebron, .... 396
Zefad, .401
Tiberiah, .... 408
Appendix to the Historical Part, .... 412
Appendix, explaining many names of Countries, Nations, Towns
out of Palestine, which occur in the Holy Scriptures and in the
Talmudic Writings, . 448
The Rechabites, ...... 493
Latest Account of the Ten Tribes^ .... 499
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Author's Portrait, ..... Frontispiece.
Map of Palestine, 17
Boundary Map of Palestine, . .32
Ruins of Palmyra or Thadmor in the Desert, ... 64
Ruins of Baal-bek, .64
Jerusalem, ....... 86
The Grave of Rachel, .109
Bethlehem, ....... 109
Rama Nebi Smuel or Mizpeh, ..... 126
Mount Tabor, ...... 126
Mount Sinai, ....... 211
Train of an Arabian Caravan, .... 211
Zion, from the north — ^the Burial-place of the Kings of the House
of David, ...... 239
Zion, from the south, ...... 239
Grave of Zechariah, ...... 264
Grave of Jehoshaphat, ...... 264
Tomb of Absalom (from the west), .... 265
Selivan, on the Mount of Olives, ..... 265
Elallai, taken outside of the City, .... 273
Kallai, taken within the City, ..... 273
Portrait of Mehemed Ali, Pacha of Egypt, 277
The Old German (Ashkenazim) Synagogue, . 277
Chotel Maarbi, or West Wall, .... 337
Inscription on a Stone in the South Wall, .... 337
The Graves of the Patriarchs (Mearath Hamachpelah) at Hebron, 396
i
.*
(\
A DESCRIPTIVE
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE-
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
THE BOUNDARIES OP PALESTINE.
It is difficult to determine, with any degree of accuracy,
the former limits of Palestine, especially as there are ap-
parently several contradictions in this respect in the holy
Scriptures. For instance, it is said in Grenesis xv. 18,
" Unto thy seed have I given this land from the river of
Egypt unto the great river, the river Euphrates." Again,
in Exodus xxiii. 31, " and from the desert unto the river"
(Euphrates) ; and again " from th^ river, the river Eu-
phrates, even unto the uttermost sea shall your coast be."
So, also, Joshua i. 4, " From the wilderness and this Le-
banon, even unto the great river, the river Euphrates,
and all the land of the Hittites, and unto the great sea
toward the going down of the sun, shall be your coast."
In Numbers xxxiv., however, where the precise boundary
of Palestine is laid down by divine authority, we do not
find that it was to extend from the Red Sea to the Eu-
phrates ; the most southerly points are |0S)^ Azmon, and
yyi2 tt^lp Kadesh-Bamea, and the most northerly, the
Mount Hor "^TIH IH, and no mention is made of the Red
Sea on the one or the Euphrates on the other side.
L
18 GEOGRAPUY OF PALESTINE.
To reconcile this contradiction, I would offer the fol-
lowing suggestion : The promise of the extended boua-
diiry of Paleetiue is only a future prediction, and merely a
reward held out in case the Israelites would live accord-
ing to the will and the commandments of God, in which
case they should become powerful, and so ilumerous that
they should he compelled by their large population, grur
dually to extend their boundaries to the widest given
Umitj5; as we read in Exodus xxiii. 30, 31 : '' By little
and little I will drive them out before thee, until thou
be increased and inherit the land; and I will set thy
bounds from the Red Sea uuto the sea of the Philistines,
and from the desert uuto the river." The Red Sea and
the Euphrates are accordingly indicated as the utmost
points, which the Israelites should acquire in their most
Qourisbiiig condition. But when their boundaries were
fixed for them at their first entrance into Palestine
(Numbers xxsiv.). these were determined in due pro-
portion to their numbers, their population ; because from
the paucity of their numerical strength they were not
able to take possession of, to inhabit, and to people fully
the wide extent of land from the Red Sea to the £u>
phrntes, which points should become the boundaries* of
their country at a later period, when their population
had suflSciently increased ; and, indeed, under the rt-ign
uf David and Solomon (and afterwards under Herod) the
boundaries of Palestine extended xhu» far, allhoogh only
for a very short period. But when the IsraeUtes were,
at a later period, through the mercy of God, permitted to
■ To tiia, likewise, nters tlie pMsafe at DHrtcroiKmijr xix. 8, 9. *■ Aai
if tlko l^utt Uijr G«l enUrg« thj tOHt u be hatli sworn ubIq llijr Eubers,
and pre tliee aU lit JumJ whinh be framati to pn vbu th^ bl]ien :
Ikes fUt thoa add Ibree cities man Inr I^m (fcr dl)«a of rt^ige) be-
tiirn thma tkne," «bicb voold, —■■— ♦■"g'y ^«e hs Bine neb ritiea, to
irii, Ibnt (Mt of Jn^a, tbrre in MesttM fnftr, and tbne in ibe new
THE BOUNDARIES OF PALESTINE. 19
return to their former country from their exile to Baby-
lon by the permission of Cyrus (E'^13) King of Persia,
afttir Palestine had been a desolate waste for seventy
years, they were not able to take possession of the whole
of tlie land after its former dimensions ; but the small
number of the returning exiles were only empowered to
occupy a small portion of Palestine, which accordingly
was comprised within narrower and diflerent limits from
any of the preceding ones. We have, accordingly, three
different boundaries of the land of Israel at three different
periods.
I. The promised limits from the Red Sea to the Eu-
phrates.
II. Those of the conquest by Joshua from Azmon and
Kadesh-Barnea at the south, to Hazar-Enan and
the Mount Hor at the north, as they are de-
scribed in Numljers xxxiv.
III. Those which were established when the Israelites
returned from their exile under Ezra and Nehe-
miah, when the most northern points of their
possessions were Cliezib and Akko,* as I shall show
more particularly hereafter.
* This will esplnin for ub the paasage in Shebiith vi. 5 1 (•« ''Iso
Cliallah iv. g 8), which says that there are threo different districts with
reference to the Uws relating to the seventh or release jcar, when in
Palestine proper it was not permitted to sow or to reap. The country,
taken poflBOftiion of by the retarning exiles, is given as to Chczib, whereu
that conquored by Joshua is deseribed from Chezib to the river, and from
the Bwue point to Amana, nj^K, which, according to my view, is aa fol-
lows : the Ohezib here mentioned, is the Achzib of Joshuii x'ls. 29, or the
village three hours (alwut 8 milca) distance north of Akko, now called Al
Zib. Amanah is the Mount Hor, the most northerly point of Palestine, of
which I shall speak more circumatuntially hereafter. The river here
spoken of cannot be easily determined. For it ia not possible that the
Euphrates is here understood, gince, as already SMd, the Israelites under
Joahna never penetrated that far, wherefore it cannot he taken ae the
booodary of their possessions. Maimonidea, and the author of the
20 GEOGRAPnY OF PALESTINE.
EXPLANATION OF TUE BOUNDARIES OF PALESTINE,
After Nnmbers iiiW. 8, ic.
" Then your south quarter shall be from the wildeniess
of Zin, along by the coast of Edom, and your south border
shall be the utmost coast of the Salt Sea, eastward ; and
your border shall turn from the south to the ascent of
Akrabbim, and pass on to Zin, and the going forth thereof
shall be from the south of Kadesh-Bamea, and shall go
on to Ilazar-adar, and pass on to Azmon ; and the border
shall fetch a compass from Azmon unto the river of Egypt,
and the gomgs out of it shall he at the sea."
ZIN. I'X
The Targura Jonathan (Sk'HV p \r\iV) explains |'S
as meaning (^Tflfl 110 'J'!( Tzlnaij l\ir Rirzela, i. e. " the
iron mountain." Now, in Mishna Sukka, chapter iii. § 1
JtVnS ^^t^ 'J'X refers to an uncommonly close, strong,
Kapklor Vaphcrach think it to be the Wndy al Ariah (aec farther down
concerning the River of Egypt d'tXO Snj); hut this stream ia at the
ROuthwest comer, and here reference is made tc a northern point. But
it appears to mo that the river spoken of here is the Pharpar of 2 Kings
r. 12; jn Aruhio Fidjch, which takes its coarse from the village Bar
Kanon, which I suppose to be identical with Cha»ar-Enan, for Cha^or ia
in Arabic Dar "dwelling;" Enan is easily corrupted into Kanon; the
place, therefore, is the moat northeasterly of Palestine proper (Num-
bers xxxiv. 9). Now this little stream runs from the north to the south,
ud forms measurably the northeastern boundary of the land of Israel,
and as the Amanah is the northwestern, so is the Pharpar or Fidjeh, the
northeastern limit.
The passage in Gittin, fol. 8 a, " How far does Palestine extend 7 from
Amanah Eonthward, belongs to Palestine, from that point northward, does
not belong to it," refers, according to my opinion, to the country conquered
by Joshua; hut where the boundary [loints are given by Achztb, Zih, and
Akko, I tftke the some to refer to the boundaries of the returned esiles
under Etra.
1
THE BOUNDABIES OP PALESTINE. 21
and hard species of palms ;* the meanings therefore, in
this passage is " The wilderness of Zin, in the direction
of the hard palm country," a well-known place of the de-
sert, where this species of hard pahns grew. We also
find mention made at the end of Tractate Yebamothy that
the town of Zoar is called the " City of Palms ;" the same
occurs in Tosefta Shebiith, chapter vii., and in Talmud
Pesachim, fol. 53 a. It appears, therefore, to me that
ion pVVn Chazezon-Tamarf (Gen. xiv. 7) is the City of
Palms, Zoar, situated in that neighbourhood (see farther
down En Gedi, nj pi^). At the southwestern termina-
tion of the Dead Sea is found a salt mountain about 150
feet high, which extends about five miles in a northerly
direction, and is called in Arabic Vzdum. At the northern
end of this moimtain, is a narrow pass, in the neighbour-
hood of which there are ruins called Zuari in Arabic. To
me there appears no doubt that Uzdum is derived from
the ancient Sodom, and Zuari from Zoar. In Pesachim
fol. 93 &, the distance from ZosLr to Sodom, is stated as
five mUly say in the neighbourhood of four English miles.
But it is ascertained that the ancient Sodom did actually
stand four English miles from the ruins of Zuari. J I take
this pass to he "the Valley of Salt" of 2 Samuel viii. 13.
"*" See Eashi's exposition of Kn^'J^lf in Sanhedrin, fol. 96 h.
f Perhaps the Tamar of Ezekiel xlvii. 19, is the above mentioned
Zoar, the City of Palms, also called Palmyra, not as Ir hattemarimj in
Deuteronomy xxxiv. 3, is taken by many commentators for Jericho yxw.
\ I am, however, somewhat in doubt concerning the true position of
Zoar ; because, in Jeremiah zlviii. 34, Zoar is reckoned among the cities
of Moab ; it must, therefore, be in the Moabite country, and not on the
west side of the Dead Sea. I am, therefore, induced to suggest that there
were two towns bearing the name of Zoar. The village Safia, on the
eastern shore of the Dead Sea, and consequently in the country of Moab,
was, according to a certain tradition, formerly called Zoar, and this ap-
pears actually to be the town of this name mentiofned as belonging to
Moab.
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Zoar is also called the " City of Salt," in Joshua xv. 62,
on account of the salt mountain in its vicinity. In this,
mountain also must the pillar of salt (Ix)t'a Wife) be
sought for. Upon the whole, I take the entire country
of the southwest portion of the Dead Sea, called in
Arabic " Saideiyeh," to be that part of the desert called the
Wilderness of Zin.
THE ASCENT Or AKKABBIM D'31py nSj'D
Means literally the ascent of Scorpions, so to say, a
most dangerous hill. The celebrated Saadiah renders it,
in his Arabic translation of the Scriptures, All AkhaJi Ak-
raihi, i.e. or the country of Akbah Akrabin. The Arabs
call the eastern bay of the Red Sea, Bachr Akabah ; also
the entire valley, from the Dead to the Red Sea, they
call nSli^ Araba, Al Gor, also Akabah (see farther down,
art. Kikkar Hayarden J1'^*T} 133) . It is therefore to be
presumed that this ascent of Akrabbim must be sought
for in this valley. And, in truth, westward from the
village Chansiri, on the edge of Al Gor, not far from the
Wady Kurahy, there is a fearfully high and precipitous
rocky acclivity, which to paaa is extremely dangerous ;
and I suppose this to be the Ascent of Akrabbim, here
mentioned.*
The boundary line, therefore, tends eastwardly to the
hill of Akrabbim, which is eastward from Zin, by which
is explained, *' And your south border shall be to the out-
most coast of the Salt Sea eaatwardr
* I explain JudgeB i. 36, nS;"3i ]h^7a o'aiM nVno "lonn Snji " And
the cosHt of the Amorite wae from the going up of Akrabbim, from the
rock and upward," to refer to the city Selnh, mentioned in 2 Kiuga xiv.
7, wliich was also called Joktheel, and at a later period Petra, and whith
is also found in tbis Al (>or; and this Icada us to pkoe tlie aeoent of Ak-
rabbim northward of Selah or Petra.
THE BOUNDARIES OP PALESTINE. 23
KADE8H-BARNEA. ;m3 SHp
No geographer or traveller has hitherto succeeded to
discover a trace of this place. But I believe that, through
means of our own literary treasures, I shall be able to
throw some light on this obscure name, so that it will be
possible to fix its position with some degree of certainty.
Our commentators Onkelos, Jonathan, and the Targum
Yerushalmi, all translate Kadesh-Bamea with KJ^^J DpT
Reham Gaya. In this connexion I have also discovered
that the Wady al Arish (see farther down, under Nacluil
Mitzrayim DHVO /T^i)y unites eastwardly with another
Wady, which the Arabs call Wady Abiat (White Valley),
or Wady Gaian. Another Wady, called by them Wady
Bierin, is connected on the southeast with the Wady
Gaian. I have scarcely any doubt but that the name of
Gaian is derived from the ancient Eekam Gaya, and that
Bierin is derived from the ancient Bamea ; although the
Arabs believe that this name is applied to the Wady be-
cause there are found in it several wells. I therefore
believe that the true position of Kadesh-Bamea is to be
found at the point where the Wadys Gaian and Bierin
unite; and this is about 45 English miles south of Gazza.
AZMON |Dif;r
Is likewise unknown; still I find that Jonathan trans-
lates it with DDp Kessam, Now about 22 English miles
southeasterly of the Wady Bierin is the Wady Kiseimi,
and there is no doubt that Azmon must have stood
formerly in this Wady, and was called at a later period,
for instance in the time of Jonathan, by the name of
Kessam.
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
THE RIVER OF EGYPT (NACIIAL MITZRAYIM) D'ISrj ^TM
Jonathan renders this with Niios* This, however,
appears to me not to bo the stream indicated, for Pales-
tine never extended to the Nile, The more correct view
is that given in Saadiah's translation, Wady al Arish,
which has a northwesterly course, and falls into the Medi-
terranean, near the village of Al Arish, the ancient Rhino-
colura.
" And this shall be your north border, from the great
sea ye shall point out to you Mount Hor." (Numb.
xxsiv. 7.)
The Mount Hor, . pON mo . D'JDN . nJDN . inn IH
D130 mmta • D'JOIN omits Amauah, Amanim, Tur Am-
non, Tavros Umanie, and Tavros Manis, are the different
names applied to this celebrated mount. In the Song of
Salomon, iv. 8, it is called Amanah ; Jonathan calls it
Tavros Umanis; the Yerushalmi calls it Tavros Mauis,
and in Talmud and Midrash it bears the name of Tur Am-
non, or Amauim, It appears from Talmud Babli, Gittin,
fbl. 40rt, and T. Yerushalmi, Shcbiitli, chap, vi., that this
mount was on the coast of the Mediterranean, and that
on its summit was a town called Kapladia. "We also
learn from Joshua xiii. 5, that the whole mountain of
Lebanon, together with the country of the Giblitea (flN
'73jn), afterwards called Biblus, mXist be contained within
the northern boundary of Palestine, since these districts
are enumerated among the yet unconquered parte of the
country. We must, therefore, seek for a point north of
the Lebanon as the true site of the Mount Hor, the
* But the "Shichor wliich is before Egypt" (.Joshua xiii. 3), ib, ao-
oording to my opinion, actually the Nile ; because Sbichor literally means
the Black, which is moat tikety applied to the Nile, because it comes trom
the country of the j^lthiopians, the hlaok laoe known to the ancients.
I
THE BOUNDARIES OF PALESTINE. 25
northernmost boundary of Palestine. Now I found that,
south of Tripoli, the Trablos al Sham, on the coast there
is a promontory which runs into the sea, called in Arabic
Ras al Shaka, or, during the period of the Greek domina-
tion, Theuprosopon. On this promontory is a high moun-
tain, called Djebel Nuria, on which is the village Kal-
padia, which I take to be identical with the above Kap-
ladia, having the present appellation by a simple trans-
position of the p and 1, a thing very common among the
Arabs ; as they call, for instance, DyiQB^ Shafram, loyfity
Shafamr. East of this mountain is the small town Amiuriy
also called Kalmiun, which I take to bear some resem-
blance to the former Amanah, and am certain that the
Mount Nuria is identical with the ancient Hor.
" From Mount Hor ye shall point out your border unto
the entrance of Hamath, and the going forth of the border
shaU be to Zedad." (lb. v. 8.)
SNTRANCS OF HAMATH. flDH KdS
We find this designation often given as the northern
boundary, or the northern terminus of Palestine ; e. g.
Numb. xiii. 21, 2 Kings xiv. 25, 2 Chron. vii. 8. It ap-
pears to me that this must be a natural boundary ; and I
suppose this to be Coelesyria, and means the " way which
leads to Hamath ;" and the road which goes to the land
of Hamath actually is through the great valley which lies
between the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon. The Arabs call
it Al Bakaa, which means "the valley," "the hollow;"
the southern portion they call Al Bakaa tachtani, the lower
valley, and the northern part Al Bakaa foki, or the upper
valley ; and this extends to the neighbourhood of Hamsj and
the other to the neighbourhood of Sur, Zor, or Tyre. As in
the passage in question it is given as the northern boundary,
GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
the northern valley is naturally understood ; but in Numb,
xiii. 21, reference is made to the southern part.*
ZEUAD. -nY
In the just mentioned great valley of Coelesyria, eaat
ward of Tripoli, is found a village, called by the Arabs Al
Djededa; I Ijelievc that the ancient name of Zedad haa
given rise to this modem appellation .f
" And the border shall go on to Ziphron, and the goings
* The TiJmud, as well as all the other coinnientatora, explain " the
entrance of Uamalh" with Antiochia, or Daphne, K'31'B3K hs 'JilT ; so
also thcj explain Kiblah, in the land of Hamath (Jcr. lii. 27), with
Daphne. lu itself is Daphne of mythological origin. A certain nyroph
bore this name ; and not far from Antiochia was u temple of Daphne,
where there was also a laurel-grove consecrated to her. Prior to this was
at this place a summer palace of Nebuchadnezzar. To this da; thero is
a village seven English niilcs south of Antiochia, called Beth Alma, which
means "maiden's house," so oalled from the fact that the ahove Daphne
t«mpte stood here formerly. Now whereas Antiochia was the most im-
portant city of that neighbourhood, the whole country is designated and
called after it, and the land of Hamath is therefore mentioned in the
Talmud by the name of Antiochia, or the temple of Daphufe in its imme-
diate vicinity.
j" In Targum Jonathan are given to this passage, as an esplanation,
Boveral places, the remains of which still exist. These are, laT ^1D^3^
|"Wp v K4lJ2^n1 oirpim kiu-id ^3^ {■ui^Si) -loia'ii noi'i In this, I
believe, several errors of transcribera have to be corrected : in place of
■ll^^3 (Kadkor), it should read n3^3 Karatah," which means fort, cattle,
palace; and to this day there are found traces of the castle of Sanigura,
and the Arabs call the ruins Kallath al Sani, but to the whole distriot
they give the name of Sagura, and it is eastward of Akko, at a distance of
abont 7 i English miles. So also by niDj'T 13T n3i3 is probably understflod
the old castle Kallath Saantah, situated on the Baa Abiath (the white
promontory), about 7i English miles south of Tyre. Tarncgola is the
Qrock OmJllum; Josephns calls it Gnhar, and all these names signify
the eock. I suppose that a temple of the idol Nergal (2 Kings xvii. 30),
the god of the Cuthians, who, aecording to the Talmud Sanhedrin, was
■ My copy of Jonatbaa reada, in fact, in one place "\2'^2 Kurkoj, as indicated
in the pirenlliesis. — Trans latuu.
THE BOUNDARIES OP PALESTINE. 27
out shall be at Hazar-Enan^ this shall be your north
border."
ZIPHRON. pTST
Northeasterly of Damascus is a high mount called Djebl
Sefira, which name I suppose to be derived from Ziphron,
wherefore it is likely that the town in question must have
been near this mount.
HAZAR-ENAN. py nim
From Ezekiel xlvii. 17, we should conclude that Hazar-
Enan must be not far from Damascus ; and actually north-
westerly from this place, at a distance of about 25 English
miles, in the vicinity of the sources of the Pharpar (2
Kings V. 12), which the Arabs call Fidji, is the village of
Dar K'anon. I take that Dar Kanon may be put for Dar
Anon, because the Hebrew Hazar is the Arabic Dar,
dwelling, and that Dar Anon is actually the Hazar-Enan.
Perhaps the name of p^y Enan is derived from py spring,
from the fact that the source of the Pharpar is close to it,
whence then the name Hazar-Enan, " the spring town."
" And you shall point out your east border from Hazar-
Enan to Shepham." (lb. vi. 10.)
8H£PHAM. UQVf
Jonathan and Targum Yerushalmi explain this with
Apamyam or Aphmia, which is Banias, not far from the
ancient Laish or Dan. (According to Josephus, Banias
was situated 3i English miles east of Laish.) Here is
the cave of Banias, out of which the Jordan issues (see
represented as a cock, once stood here. According to Josephus (Antiquities,
book xvii.,§ 17), the Samaritans (Cuthians) are of Zidonian origin; where-
fore I conclude that this city in the vicinity of Zidon was devoted to Ner-
gal ; and hence its name of Tamegola, Omithon, or Gkibar. — Kalkai is in
the Lebanon (which see, art. Aklok).
28 GEOGRArOY np PALESTINE.
farther down, art. Jordan.) The name of Banias is, pro-
perly speaking, of mythological origin, namely, from tlie
Greek ifeu, as it appears also, from inscriptions in Maid
cave, that it was dedicated to the god Pan (see farther
down, in art. Baal Gad).
"And the coast shall go down from Shepham to Rihlah,
on the cast side of Ain ; and the border shall descend, and
shall reach unto the side of the sea of Chinnereth east-
ward; and the border shall go down to Jordan, and the
goings out of it shall be at the salt sea." (Numb, xxxiv.
11, 12).
KiBLAn. nSn
Jonathan, Targiim Yerushalmi, and Saadiah all render
Rihlah with Daphne ; and T have already said that Daphne
is near Antiochia, and that the Eiblah in the land of
Hamath is thus correctly rendered, and not the Riblah in
the neighbourhood of Banias, which Josepliiis several
times mentions as a Daphne being near the sea of Seme-
chonitis. I made frequent inquiries, to ascertain whether
I could not find a trace of this Daphne ; when at length I
ascertahicd that there dwells on tlie western shore of said
sea a tribe of Arabs, called the Dufni Arabs. I inquired
concerning the meaning of this name, hut no one could
give me any satisfactory account. But there can be no
doubt that this name is derived from the ancient Daphne,
which must have stood where this Arab tribe have taken
up their abode. Still I am not able to say whether the
origin of thiii Daphne is likewise to be sought for in my-
thology or not. At least this much appears certain, that
there were two places by name of Ril^lah, the one in the
land of Hamath, the other near Banias, and that both were
also known as Daphne ; wherefore the former is always
designated as UihJali in the land of Hamath. (2 Kings xxv.
21 ; Jer. xxxix. 5 ; ibid. lii. 9.)
THE BOUNDARIES OF PALESimE. 29
AiN. \y
Josephus states that, between Kedesh (which see), and
the sea Semechonitis, there was a city called Bin, near
which was a large spring. Even at the present time this
spring still exists, aj^d the Arabs call it Ein al Malcha
(king's spring); which then gives us the result that
Daphne or Riblah must be eastward thereof, which then
again correctly explains " Riblah on the east side of Ain."*
The boundary line of Palestine at the east was the
Jordan, and the Dead Sea at the south ; after the line
had run somewhat southeast of this sea, to wit, to the
ascent of tne Akrabbim, it ran westward over the mount
now called Djebl Madura, which is between the southern
termination of the Dead Sea and the Wady Gaian (Ka-
desh-6amea)^ and is probably the Mount Halak " Bald
Mountain," in the land of Seir, mentioned in Joshua xi.
17; then on to Wady Gaian, Wady Bierin, Wady Kiseimi
and Wady al Arish to the Mediterranean Sea, which was
the western boundary line. The northern boundary was
over Ras al Shaka and Djebl Nuria, then eastward
through the great valley of Coelesyria towards Al Dje-
deda, then somewhat southeasterly through the mountain
* I must notice a few errors in Jonatiian. The cave of OK'^D " Senias/'
should be Panias; OIDII ihlH should be r\2pDl (1 Chron. xix. 6). In
Targum Yerushalmi the following corrections should be made : K'D'^jro
Hn}yy htid "westward of Hazar-Enan/' should be wnjna "eastward;"
Hl'^pD jD noirai "westof Chinnereth/' should be wrsriD |0 "eastward/'
pay pon should be p n ; {rTO^pi Hihn '^^o should be pno'pT n^ujin ;
p 3i;ro should be n'^j^o. I explain k^dt pD"K3 to be identical with the
kings of Zimri, of Jeremiah xxv. 25, and Zimran (Gen. xxv. 2), as the
father of the tribe. Josephus B. J. book iii. ch. 3, reads Simnxtij which
is evidently an error, and should be Simriti. The English translation of
this passage, Silbonites, is also incorrect. ''TDpitsr Shokmezay, is certainly
the village Shikmoski, east of the sea of Tiberias^ at the distance of about
15 English miles on the road to Damascus.
30 GEOGltAPHT OP PALESTINE.
of Sefira, from there to the village Dar Kanon, then
southerly to the "^Tllage Bauiaa, over the ivestern shore
of the sea Semechonitis to the Jordan. The southernraoat
points of the boundary are the Wady Bierm and "VVady
Kiseimi; the most northern, Ras al Shaka and Al Dje-
deda. Palestine extends in latitude about 3i degrees,
but the longitude is uneven ; at the north and south it is
more than li degrees, whereas in tlie centre, scarcely
more than i a degree. I calculate the whole superficial
space to be no more than about 600* German square
miles ; and if one wishes to form a square of thi.s, it
would give us only one of no more than 24 i German, or
122i English miles.
Although the northern boundary of Palestine extended
to Mount Hor, Joshua did not, for all tliat, take posses-
sion of the land thus far; the most northern point of his
conquest was Baal Gad, which is Banias ; but the whole
* I doem it iiij duty to explain here tt most difficuh passage in the
Talmud, which gives tlio extent of Palestine. Wo find in Trattate Me-
gillah, fol. 3 <i, Suta, 49 b ; Baba Kama, fol. 82 h, and Mcnachoth, fol. 64
b, that Paleslino had a Bupcrficial extent of Ki'^s 'n V KD13 'n a square
of four hundred Parsn in breadth and length, which would make 1CO,000
square Paraoa ; each Parsa of the Talmud is, however, 3 English miles,
which would then give us, 1,440,000 English square miles, which would
take in more than IT degrees of longitude and latitude, which would,
therefore, extend Palestine to the Persian -and Russian empires, which,
in good truth, would necessarily appear too ridiculous to be cnhrtained
hy the Talmudic writers. I took a great deal of pains to unravel this
riddle, and I found that all these passages do not say that Palestine
bad actually the above extravagant extent, but only ko-<D 'n •"« nj'tjf7iJi
RDifl 'n Vt which means that Palestine was shaken by an earthquake ex-
tending to four hundred Parsas, which may mean that the trembling waa
felt to that distance, which is actually often the case in eattlKjuakes that
thoy are perceived thus far, which was exemplified in the year .^597 (1837)
that the earthquake which destroyed Zafed and TiberiuH was felt in Bag-
dad and Vienna. But that the Tulmudists could not have meant to
assert that Palestine was actually as large is proved from Talmud Yera-
flhalmi Taanith iv. 5, where it says that Palestine was only 40 by M
1
THE BOUNDARIES OP PALESTINE. 31
country of Mount Lebanon,* and the land of the Giblim
(Biblus) up to Mount Hor was not occupied at that time.
It appears to me, likewise, that Joshua divided among
the tribes only that portion of the country which had
been taken possession of already, but not what was yet
to be conquered, that is, only as far as Zidon and Dan.
And we actually do not find among the towns of Asher
and Naphtali, any more northeriy than these places ; so
also we find among the thirty-one kings of the 12th of
Joshua, none more northeriy than Kedesh and Chazor.
It appears, therefore, that the country north of Zidon,
was for a long time not inhabited by- the Israelites ; in
proof of which, I refer to 2 Samuel xxiv. 6, where we
read that Joab, on being ordered by David to number the
people, and when he for this purpose travelled through
the whole country, only reached as far as Zidon and Dan,
but we find, no trace that he extended his journey north
beyond these points. These are clear proofs that the
Israelites had only conquered the land up to Zidon,
although the actual boundary line extended much far-
ther north. It was only at a later period that this
ParsaS; and this corresponds exactly with my computation, since 40 Par-
sas are nearly 122} English miles.
As farther proof that the assertion of the extent of 400 Parsas is by
no means to be taken in a literal sense, I will mention that it occurs in
twelve different passages, which argues that it represents an immensely
great distance and nothing else. The passages are: 1. Pcsachim, 95 a;
2. Yoma, 96 b; 3. Gittin, 68 h; 4. Kidushin, 40 a; 5. Ketuboth, 111
a; 6. Sanhedrin, 95 6; 7. Abodah Zarah, 17 6; 8. Chulin, 95 5; 9.
Zohar Pinechas, 233 a; 10. Zohar Shemoth, 18 a; 11. Yalkut Echa
Rabbethi i. 1; 12. In Piyut of Parashath Zachor, taken from Mechiltha, to
Exodus xvii. 8. Now, as it is impossible that all these measurements
should signify the precise extent of 400 Parsas, it follows that, as said,
they denote merely a great and unknown extent.
♦See Chulin, fol. 60 b; Senir or Sirion are' mountains of Israel,
wherefore the Anti-Lebanon mountains are properly reckoned to Pales*
tind, although they are situated to the north of Dan and Zidon.
f
#2 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
northern portion was conquered and occupied by the
Israelites.
siiRiA. xniB
Under this name, which so often occurs in Talmud
and Midrashim, we understand all those countries which
King David had conquered beyond the boundaries of Pa-
lestine. They are considered, in some respects, equal to
Palestine ; in others, however, as foreign countries. (See
Gittin.) The chief portion of these possessions is the
country of
ABAM. Din
This is divided into five different districts or divisions,
which are
I- D'lnJ DIK Aram Naharayim {Genesis xxiv. 10),
Me.soj>(jtaniia, Ix'tween the Tigris and Euphrates, and ia
called K'0t3'flDN0 in Bereshith Rabba, chapter 31, and
Al Djisre, the island, because it is enclosed between the
two rivers just mentioned. It is also called (Genesis
xxviii. 5) Padan Aram, In this district is yet the city
of Ur, the birth-place of Abraham, and people point out
the spot where the lime-kiln stood mto which Nimrod is
said to liave ordered the patriarch to be cast when he
mode light of his idols. (See farther down, article Ur.)
II. pli'Ol DIN Aram Damascus (2 Samuel viii. 6) is
called in Arabic Belad al Shem, after Shem, the son of
Noah, whom tradition alleges to have built the city.
Ill- HDIi' D1K Aram Zobah (2 Samuel x. 8) ; this is
the present Syria proper beyond Palestine, The city of
Aleppo is called by our brothers, according to tradition,
Aram Zobah, because it is alleged that the residence of
the king of the country was in this city. The fort of
this place and the Jewish Synagogue likewise, are evi-
dently the remains out of the highest antiquity. This
1^ CBOr.NDABYO
l; Vr:'.- Ar.„rdi«^U
I yrMHERS ?cccn'>
I RABBI JOSEPH SCH*
, oP .Tenualen.
380-.
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i
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THE BOUXDARIES OF PALESTINE. 3S
•
district waei likewise called the land of Bamath; \\m
Arabic name is Al Chadshass, and extends ftom Palmyra
to Antiochia.*
(In an Arabic translation of the Scriptures, not that of
the celebrated Saadiah, I found in the passage cited,
Zobah given by Nezibin, which is the Nizibus beyond
Euphrates ; but I deem this exposition not well founded,
because Zobah did not extend that far.)
These three districts were beyond Palestine proper;
the two next following were within the boundary line,
and considered a portion of the land of Israel.
IV. 3irn no D"1H Aram Beth Rechob (2 Samuel x.
6) is Coelesyria, and extended southward to the Wady
Chasmeia. The celebrated Baal-bek is in this district, and
many sections of it are now inhabited by the Druses.
V. rrDPO D1K Aram Maachah (1 Chronicles xix. 6),
lies east of Beth Rechob, and the snow-covered mountain
of Hermon is found here. The town of Chasbey a •( which
see) and Abel Beth Maachah (see 1 Kings xv. 20, also
called Abel Mayim, 2 Chronicles xvi. 4), belonged to this
part of Aram.
THB BOUNDABT OF PALESTINE AFTEB THE EXILE UNDEB EZEA AND
NEHEMIAH.
In Talmud Yerushalmi, Shebiith, chapter vi., occurs
the following, as descriptive of the boundaries of Pales-
tine occupied by the exiles returning from Babylon :
nmaDi vhhn Nn^xpi idj;t Nniiri nm 'Tm n^tj^ Snjo
nnwDi D'jsn 'r\y\ ^niDi non 'nS^oi N^yaipi nn^jr noi
\\r\vy\ pnj;j ♦o i?nm NnnaNT n^xodi i^n^n Nmnoi
'napiji ^nm dSini ann Snjoi ntj^moi isp ♦o nmy
* Zobah is probably the Syria Zfthaly Mesopotamia, Apamia, men-
tioned in Judith iii. 1-12. [Not according to my copy. — ^1!ranslatob.]
8
34 GEOGRAPnT OF PALESTINE.
jnoji "Kairn nSm mvisS onnai nji^im jnop p
laioS nDSinn nSnjn -jni Nijm n'Sii Djpi Sdd n'ni
'♦jji rty'ii Dpii Nnnno "U'l "[irn wSmi stpan jutr'n
: pSpB'KT
A Kimilar description ia given in Siphri, section Ekeb,
and Tusephtah Shebiitb, chapt^^r vi., with some divergen-
cies, non\fi of wliich are evidently errors of the transcribers,
and additions, which I shall explain as far as possible.
However uninteresting this passage may appear, still
it must be of importance to the learned; since by this
meanH we shall be able to determiae the boundaries and
L'xtnut of Palestine at the period of its re-occupation by
the iMraelites under Ezra. The learned Eeland quoted
tbifl passage from the Talmud Yerushalmi, but could give
no Hutinfiictory exposition of it, much as he was desirous
of doing so. I, however, believe that I can explain it
with tolerable accuracy, and trace the names here given.
noin ntS'lfl I^ntashath Clwmath is evidently an im-
projHir method of writing the name of the place indicated,
and HlioiUd be non Chamath (Hamath), and, therefore,
I'^trwwhatli Chamath, the same as the entrance to Hamath
JlOn MI37 (which see), or the road which leads to the
great valley of Coelesyria. In the Talmud, the phrase
QtjIT flB^fl (Perashath Derachim) means the public
highway, or cross-road ; and I have already stated that
this road runs Bouthward through the valley to "ilS or
Tyre.
Tft' ?\y2 Tlte Totver of Shid. The town of Gsesarea in
Prtk'fttiiie is also called Shid ; here, therefore, the tower of
Htrati). Sec, however, for a farther explanation, under
Kkruii., in the land of the Philistines.
^m 'J'B' Shinaij Ikror, should be *im Dedor, or the
fortresH, the wallw of Dor, now called Dautura, or Dartura
J
THE BOUNDARIES OF PALESTINE. 35
(see article Dor). The word ^y iff. .teeth, expresses the
salient points of the bastions of a fortress.
13)^1 UTIB^ Shura DeakTcOy is the wall or circumvallation
of Akko. (Ullty is the Hebrew lltJ^ wall ; see Gen. xlix.
22.)
KV7JT jn^p Kezira Degalila, is the town of Kazra in
Galilee. (See pnSJ Gibthon, and mvp Kazra.)
nnnM Kahartha, is 2i English miles west of Shafamer
(DjndB^)^ and is a village bearing the same name at this
day.
nn*JT n*!3 Beth Zenita. I would prefer reading nil^lT
Zevita, which would give us the ancient Suite, 15 mill
from Tiberias, destroyed by the Nazarenes in the year
4942, A. M., or 1182 c. e.
Ky31p Ktibeaya, is north of Zafed, in the vicinity of
Gish (370 tyiJ)? and is the village Kubea of the present
day.
1*3T KflTO Mltha Ddnr. Miltha, in the Chaldean,
signifies rampart, mound, Hebrew nS/ID; therefore the
fortification of the town 1^3 Bir, which is no doubt the
village Biri in the neighbourhood of Zafed.
♦n3*l ♦niD Kuryee Babbethi, perhaps nO Great Bin.
Josephus makes mention of a large town, called Biri, near
the sea Semechonitis, DHD ♦D, the Waters of Merom, where
Joshua defeated the Canaanites. (Josh. xi. 5.)— rlt appears
to me, however, as more likely, that in place of a town,
the lake or sea itself is meant, as Kuree in the Chaldean
signifies a sea ; therefore the Great Semechonitis, if my
hypothesis be correct.
D^JSn Taphnia, doubtlessly means Daphne, on the west
shore of this lake. (See above, art. Riblah.)
^'^rx^^ KmnO Macharta Deyaihir, is unknown to me.
KnrT3KT K^VDD Mamzi Deahhatha, is the village Aba-
thia, not far from the southwestern shore of the sea of
Tiberias. Mamzi means literally the way, the road^ that
36 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
which causes to find, which leads, or here the road to
Abhatha, or Abathia.
nayy pnyjl pni?J 'O f NT TIw head of the waters of
Qaaion, and Gaaton itself. I am fully persuaded that the
ancient MiD 'D Me {waters of) Megiddo, were at a later
period called pni'J Gaiiton ; therefore here the source of
the waters of Megiddo, and the town Megiddo itself. (See
also farther down, art. Megiddo.)
lao '0 ^^ Seplttr, would be in Chaldean the same as
coast-land; probably, therefore, uear Carmel, in the neigh-
bourhood of Megiddo, or Gaaton.
ncmD Marc/iesli£l/i, in Siphri, is thus written J^{!♦if^D■
Maresheth, is the village Marasea (see mo Meroz), 2i
English miles northeast from lieth-diean.
2Tin SlJO The Totcer of Gfiarub. Eastward from the
sea of Tiberias is a village Kefer Charub; and near it is
another by name of Megdel (Hebrew Migdal, tower). In
Midrash Echah, fol. 71, col. c, is mentioned a pltice called
Kafar Charub; and in the Life of Josephus, p. 524, we find
Charaba in Upper Galilee.
'n31 dSw The Great Ulan, is the village Ulama, B
English miles south from the above-named Abathia. It
is true that we often find an Ulama mentioned in the
Books of the Maccabees, as belonging to the fortified places
of Gilead. Perhaps one was called the Great, the other
the Little Ulama ; but we cannot ascertain which of the
two is meant here.
IVJ^T NnSplJ Jfuhbetha D&ii/on, is perhaps the town
ivy Ijwi, of 2 Kings xv. 29, which stood in the northern
part of Palestine. At this day there is, east of the Wady
Chasmeia (the ancient Leontes), a narrow valley, which
the Arabs call Merds I-un. A narrow valley ia, in
Arabic, called Nukub; Nukbetha De-iyon means, there-
fore, the narrow valley of I-un.
mpin Tolareth. Tbis I take to be the Tukratb, often
THE BOUNDARIES OP PALESTINE. 37
mentioned in the Talmud. On the road from Za&d to
Gishy near the village Kaiomeia, is found the grave of
Rabbi Jos6, of Tukrath ; and, as it was customary to bury
the great men of our people near the places of their
nativity, it is highly probable that the town of Tukrath
must formerly have stood here.
KlilJD IDT T}y\ HDID Karaka Bahbah Debar Sanegra^
is as I have proved above, p. 26, in the note to Zedad,
the present Kallath al Sani.
fno^p |o nSyoSn nayhy nh^mn The Upper Omir
then above Ccesarea, is also explained in the same note.
mVD/ DnnOT njIDnn Tarckuna Demitlicham Lebozrahy
is the country which Josephus calls Trachonitis. The
Arabs call it Ledja, and it is south of Damascus. DHnOT
means "which borders," or leads, i. e. the road mVD/ to
Bozrah, the road which leads to Bozrah, the formerly
famous city in*Hauran, of which more will be said here-
after. (See also farther down, article T^iy.)
♦♦KD^ltT n /D Meldch JDezarbayi, is unknown to me.
THDJ Nimrin, perhaps the place of that name about 10
English miles west of Tiberias, or the Beth-Nimrah (Num.
xxxii. 36) in the portion of Gad on the other side of Jor-
dan (which see).
/DD tV2 Beth Sacluzly is unknown to me.
fljp Kenathy is probably the Kanuath in the mountains
of Hauran, and is mentioned in Numb, xxxii. 42. (See
also |B^3 ]^ashan.)
K*Um n^ST Baphiach Declmgra. Nearly all the prior
commentators translate Chazor HIVH, with Raphiach H^Sn.
I suppose that the place in. question is the town of Chazor,
near the sea Semechonitis. (See art. Chazor, in the com-
mentary on the thirty-one kings of Joshua.) Cliagra is
the Arabic Chadshar, stone, therefore the " stony coun-
try ;" and in fact there is found at the present day, north-
west of Banias, at a distance of about 10 English miles, the
38 GEOGBAPnY OF PALESTINE.
village Chadshar,* and south thereof is the village Zuk ;
which name likewise means a high steep rock, so that the
whole district is called " the stony country," which it
actually is.
lanoS nsSinnlnSnjn *1TT Tlie great road which hods
to t}ie. ih.'»e.H. We have no data to determine either the
road or the desert here meant.
patSTI H'-shbon. See this article under its proper head.
Np3' Yabhvi. See article p3» Jahbok.
"inn StSnj T/ie stream of ZerrcJi, evidently an error,
should be T)J Zered.
KrmriD nj* Yk/ur Suhadutha, is in the land of Gilead
(Gen. xxxi. 47), and is also called Mizpah. I presume
that the village Al Zuf, eastwardly in the mountains of
Gilead, is the Mizpah in question, smce tx)th the words
rendered in Englisli have the same signification, and are
derived from the Hebrew n&S to see, to look on.
Nyjn Dpi Rekain Degaya. See Kadesh-Bamea.
pSpCNT KJ'J Q'JKt Deashlcelon, that is, the environs,
properly the angle of Ashkelon. no doubt from the Greek
yunu, wherefore it should be spelled N'JIJ angle.
It is very difficult to determine accurately the boundary
of Palestine from these data, since they appear mostly to
be merely isolated places. It is at all events certain that
the northern boundary line did not extend far beyond
Banias, and on the searcoast not farther than Al Zib
(Chezib) ; and at the present day, also, the Wady Kasmeia
(Leontes) and the river Chasbeya are regarded as the
western boundary of the present Palestine. Some main-
tain that even the Arabic name of Kasmeia is derived
from the circumstance of its signifying '*the separating,"
the dividing, or here, the river which separates Palestine,
and determines the boundary line. Southward, however,
* This must not be mistaken for the Chagra in the southwest of Pales-
ttiie, the nooient T>3 Barod (Grcn. xvi. 14), which is also rendered Siin,
lud is Hiluat«d in a atony country.
THE BOUNDARIES OF PALESTINE. 39
both boundaries, to wit, that given in Numb, xxxiv. 4,
and the other marking the possession of the Israelites
under Ezra and Nehemiah, are very nearly the same,
since ,we find in the latter Rekam Gaayah, which is
Kadesh-Bamea, and the environs of Ashkalon. The ex-
tent of Palestine, however, according to these data, is con-
siderably less than that* which was determined by divine
command in the thirty-fourth of Numbers.
Before concluding this division concerning the boundary
of Palestine, I desire to say something with respect to the
h3rpothesis of the celebrated Aston Farchi, who for several
years travelled through Palestine, and investigated its
localities, till the year 5082 A. m., and was the author of
mfil inSD, the most renowned description of the land of
Israel ; and this regarding his assumption respecting the
Mount Hor, the extreme northwest of the boundary of
Palestine. The learned author took a great deal of pains
to determine this point ; still I may venture to assert that
his hypothesis is incorrect.
In section xi. of his description, he asserts that Mount
Hor is between Antakia and Ladikieh, on Ras Zodin, and
deems it identical with Djebl al Mukra, not far from Has
Basid, about a half day's journey north of Ladikieh, and
believes to have found a trace of several cities of the tribe
of Asher in its vicinity, for instance Umah, Afek, and
Rechob (Josh. xix. 30). He also considers Hesn al Akrad,
southwest of Chama, the ancient Epiphanis, as Hazar-
Enan. But if we investigate the position of this alleged
Mount Hor, we shall soon discover that the hypothesis is
untenable; since Palestine could not have had possibly so
great an extent northward, the more so as we cannot look
for the country of Asher so far to the north, since, if this
were so, the portion of this tribe would have been greater
than that of all the other eleven tribes together ; for the
superficial extent from Akko, which belonged to Asher
40 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
(Judges i. 31), to the Djebl al Mukra, is considerably
more than from Akko to the Dead Sea, WadyGaian, and
Wady al Arish, the south boundary of Palestine, which
diviaion would evidently be incredible, since the land was
to be divided according to the population of the tribes
(Numb, xxxiii. 54). Farther, we find that the towns Ladi-
kieh, Phamiah, Area, Arvad. and Trablos are situated south
of the said mountain, which is the alleged northern boun-
dary of the land of Israel, wherefore these towns ought to
be, as a matter of course, within the limits of Palestine ;
but this is not the case. For in Pesikthah Rabbethi, chap.
23, it is stated expressly that Ladikieh belongs to Suria,
and not to Palestine. At the end of Tractate Cfiallalt, it
is proved that Phamiah also belonged to Suria. From
Gen. X. 17, 18, it appears that Arvad, Arka, and Sin
(i. e. Trablos), did not belong to the possessions of the
Canaanites, consequently not to Palestine proper. It is
therefore impossible to assume that the northern portion
of this district should belong to Palestine, whilst the
southern portion was in Suria. It is therefore necessary
to assume that the Mount Hor, the northern termiims of
Palestine, is south of Trablos and Ladikieh, which it ac-
tually is, according to my supposition that it is identical
with Ras al Shaka. I have also mentioned that there
was no city of the tribes of Israel north of Zidou ; and the
places in the vicinity of the Djebl al Mukra can therefore
not be regarded as having been those of Asher, though
the names may have some similarity. The assertion, also,
that Ilazar-Enan is identical with the village Hesn al
Akrad, is too arbitrary and bold, without proof and au-
thentication ; since the place in question is to be sought
for in the vicinity of Damascus (Ezek. xlvii. 17), and not
so far northward; whereas my own idea that Dar Kanou,
in the neighbourhood of Damascus, is the Hebrew Ilazar-
Enan, has a great deal of probabiHty to recommend it as
the correct site.
CHAPTER II.
EXPLANATION OF THE SEAS, RIVERS, MOUNTAINS, AND
VALLEYS OF PALESTINE.
Palestine has three lakes* or seas : — 1, the Dead Sea,
or Lake Asphaltites; 2, the sea of Genezereth, or Lake of
Tiberias ; and 3, the sea of Merom, or Lake Semechonitis.
OnD D' OR nSlDH D'
t
(Gen. xiy. 8.)
The Salt or Dead Sea (Lake Asphaltites) is called in the
Arabic language Bachr Lot (Lot's Sea), and is 70 English
* In Tractate Baba Bathra, fol. 74 b, we read : " There are seven
seas and four rivers which surround (or border) Palestine^ namely, the
seas of Tiberias^ Sodom^ Chelath, Chiltha, Sibchi, Aspamia^ and the Great
Sea (the Mediterranean). The four rivers are the Jordan^ the Yarmuch,
Kirmion, and Pigah." tt is farther stated there that the Jordan's
sources are in the cave of Pameis^ and that it runs through the lakes of
Sibchi and Tiberias^ through the Salt Sea into the mouth of Leviathan. —
At the end of Talmud Yerushalmi^ on Rilayim^ these seven seas or lakes
are called the Great Sea^ the Sea of Tiberias, Somcho^ the Salt Sea^ the
Chultha, Shcl3rith^ and Apamia. But, as regards the Lake of Chamatz,
it is observed that the Emperor Diocletian had it dug, and had it filled by
the rivers which he conducted into it, wherefore it is not reckoned among
the lakes formed by nature. This reading appears to me more correct
than the first; still several corrections are necessary. Through means
of literary investigations, I correct and explain the above as follows.
Chultha or Chiltha signifies the Lake Phialo, which is called in Arabic
Birkath al Ram. It is about 120 paces in circumference, and lies 10}
English miles east of Banias, and is the actual source of the Jordan. (See
Josephus, Bell. Jud., book iii. ch. 18.) The whole country bears at this day
the name Balad al Chuli, Land of Chuli. I suppose the origin of the word
42 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
miles in length, and from 15 to 20 in breadth,* Towards
the south, however, it is narrow and ahoal, and about 4
miles broad, and from 3 to 4 feet in depth. This sea is
enclosed on the east and west by high mountains and
rocks ; but towards the southeast there is an extensive,
fair and fruitful plain, several miles in size. It is true
that the water of this sea is clear and pure ; nevertheless
it is more impregnated with salty matter than all other
aearwaters, and is withal very bitter, somewhat sulphurous
to be 'lin Chul (see Gen. x. 23). This, by the way, will explain a very
obscure passage in Krechin2, where it speaks of i!n:3n nSina, or the district
Cholatb, whicli was very atony and salty, and therefore unfruitfiil. The
(Miuntry is likewise called Balad al Malchj; which means "the country of
salt," from the fact that the country is, so to Boy, covered with a crust of
salt (see Tractate Aholoth, the end of chap, iii.); whence I conclude that
the present ChuH is derived from the ancient Chiltha or Cbultba. — Sibchi
is on incorrect reading, and should be 8omcho, which is the same as the sea
Semechonitis, also called Kaldayeh, which signifies "the high," identical
with the Hebrew ona '13 (Me Merora), literally the " high waters" (Josh.
It. 5). The common people call it very erroneously n'j'in D" Yam Cha-
vila, the Sea of Chavila. — Chclath or Shclyith is wrong, and should be
nS'K Elath, which is the Red Sen (Dent. ii. 8), which bounds Palestine
at the south, since the Talmud speaks here of the country in its greatest
extent. — Aspamia is also incorrect, since under this term there is always
understood hpania, Latin Ilispania, or Spain, of which I shall speak
more eittensivcly in another plact^ ; the correct reading would be Apamia.
Even at the present day there is found, north of the village Phamia
(which sec), the dry bed of an ancient lake, which the Arabs call Baeharea,
wbiob means " the little sea." The river Al Azy, the ancient Orontes, rons
through the bed of this lake in a northerly direction.
Chaniatz Lake is south of the town of Hams or Chama, and is called
Bachr Chama, "the Great Sea," also Bachr Kadissa. It is formed by
the juat mentioned Al Aay, which runs into it, and continues its course
after issuing from it. This will explain the meaning of the passage &om
the Talmud Yerushalmi, quoted above, that Diocletian had made it by
causing rivers to run into it. (See also T. Yer. Shekalim, chap, vl.)
Y'alkut to Deut. xxsiii. 23, speaks erroneously of the sea Sufni, as it
should bo Somcho.
* According to Joaephus, Bell. Jud., book v., chap. 5, is this sea 6S0
Btadia in length, and 150 in breadth.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 43
in smell, and so acrid that no one can keep it in his
mouth. When I made the attempt to take a little of it
in my mouth, the sharp, bitter, and sulphurous taste re-
mained perceptible more than half an hour. Salt thrown
in this water remains undissolved. 100 parts of this water
contain 42 parts of salts, 24 parts bitter, salty, and sour
calcareous earth, and 7 parts salty natron. The weight
of this water, compared to pure distilled water, is as 1211
to 1000. To institute several comparative experiments,
I employed water from the Dead Sea, some taken from
the Mediterranean at Jaffa, and the usual cistern (rain)
water ; and, on weighing them, I found that the first com-
pared to the second as 9 to 8, and to the latter as 9 to 7.
I have, however, to remark here, that I made these ex-
periments in the month of April, at which time the Dead
Sea had, on account of continued rains, taken up many
streams, through which circumstance the weight of its
water was much less than it usually is, and especially in
the summer months, when the evaporation condenses it
more than at other times. The water of this sea has also
a peculiarity that nothing thrown into it will sink. Even
a man, unacquainted with swimming, may confidently
bathe here, for he can no more sink in this lake than in
an empty vessel.* Josephus even tellsf that the Emperor
Vespasian had men who could not swim thrown into the
Dead Sea with their hands even tied on their backs, and
that not one of them was drowned. Everything which
lies a little time in this water is covered with a crust of
salt. On living objects, however, the skin is partially
peeled off. The air in the vicinity of this sea is so im-
pregnated with particles of salt and sulphur, that the
* The Talmud therefore remarks con^ctly (Sabbath 108 6), that a
person never was drowned in the Salt Sea.
f Bell. Jud., book v., chap. 5.
44 GEOGRAPUT OF PALESTINE.
clothes of persons who are a short time* on its shore are
covered, so to say, with a coating of salt. Neither fiah,
nor worms, nor any other living things are ever found in
this sea. Even those fish wliich swim in the Jordan, as
it disembogues itself into this sea. perish the moment
they touch it. If you carry this water to ever so great a
distance, and place fish therein, they nevertheless die
immediately. At the bottom of the Bead Sea there is
found a black, fetid slime. Every morning there ascend
such strong sulphurous vapours from this water, that they
can be seen at a great distance. On_ a winter's day, at
the time of the rains, I was once able to observe this from
the holy city itself; for as I looked in the direction of this
sea, I saw, so to say, a great cloud rising upward from the
same. Should a bird fly ovef the surface of the water
during the disengagement of these strong vapours, it would
drop down dead instantly. For this reason there are but
few living animals seen in the whole neighbourhood, also
but few trees and plants. In the vicinity of this sea is
found a species of stone-coal ; there is also a species of black
bitumen met with, which floats on the surface of the water,
and is afterwards driven on shore. The salt, which is
foimd in large quantities in the whole adjacent country,
and especially on the seashore, cannot be used in food,
because it is extraordinarily bitter, and has, moreover,
the smell and taste of saltpetre. (See art. Salt.)
Altliough the surface of this sea is 598 feet lower than
the Mediterranean, and receives the Jordan and several
other minor streams, yet it never overflows its shores.
This circumstance furnishes sufficient proof that tliis sea
must have subterranean-j- outlets, either to the Mediter-
ranean or the Red Sea.
* This is, however, the case only in damp uud foggy weather, hut not
whon it is hot and in Hunshine.
■f These unknown outlets the Midrask espreeses hy saying that the
THE SEAS, KIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 45
The mountains on the shores of the Dead Sea are ahnost
perpetually encircled by the mists ascending from its
waters. These mists, which are very unwholesome, and
cause the drying up of the vital powers, producing con-
sumption, &c., have also the most pernicious influence on
vegetation. It therefore happens that the fruit produced
on the trees of these mountains, though to outward ap-
pearance healthy and sound, are dried up within, rotten,
and filled with a carbonaceous powder. Especially is this
the case with the pomegranate and lemon; which cir-
ctunstance is no doubt referred to by Josephus, when
speaking of the Sodom-apples, which he says fall into dust
on being touched. (See also Deut. xxxii. 32.)
It is thus that t^ divine curse still rests on this neigh-
bourhood, destroyed in consequence of the sins of its in-
habitants. [It yet stands as the personified consequence
of vice, and forms the most striking contrast in what it is
now to the hopeful future promised in the thirty-sixth
chapter of Ezekiel v. 8-16, 33-36, and ibid, xlvii. 1-12 ;
the latter especially being a remarkable prophecy, pro-
mising a complete change of the whole surface of the
country, as it was and as it now is, and which, if accom-
plished, must render Palestine indeed the highway of
nations and the centre of the earth, — situated, as it is, in
the midst of the great thoroughfare between the sea of
India on the east, and the Mediterranean on the west.]
THE SEA or CmNNERETH. HUD D"
(Numb, xxxiy. 11.)
This lake, called in the Arabic Bachr Tibaria, i. e. Sea
of Tiberias, because this city is situated on its western
shore, is about 12 i English miles in length, and 5 in
Jordan passes through the Dead Sea into the mouth of Leviathan, to wit,
the unknown tenninations.
46
GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
breadth,* and lies 535 feet lower than the surface of the
Mediterranean. On the north, near the village Tanchum
(which see), the Jordan entera this lake, and leaves it
again at the south, near the village Samach (niD5£ ^fl3)■
It is a remarkable thing that the Jordan, which passes
through this lake its entire length, does not mingle with
its waters, since its course is clearly perceptible in the
midst of the lake till it leaves it again, and resumes its
own proper course. (Compare with Bereshith Rabba,
chap, 2, and Josephua, BeU. Jud., chap. 18.)
The environs of Chinnereth are uncommonly fertile
and productive; and it forms, on the whole, a complete
contrast to the recently dcacribed Dead Sea. For in-
stance, in the same measure as the water of the latter
is nauseous, bitter, heavy, and salty, so is the water of
Chinnereth agreeable, sweet, and light, and used, there-
fore, by the inhabitants of Tiberias, as diinking water.
The Dead Sea is, moreover, as its name already indicates,
dead ; and is neither navigated by men in vessels, nor in-
habited by fish or other living things- Jhe Chinnereth,
however, has all kind.s of the best fish, and other species
of aquatic animals; and one sees constantly an active in-
tercourse carried on there through means of small vessels,
in which, at times, tlie inhabitants of the other aide of
Jordan bring wood and other articles for sale to Tiberias.
And lastly, whereas on the other district still rests the
punishment sent from heaven on Sodom and Gomorrah,
and the whole environ of the sea is nothing but a frightful
scene of desolation, one sees near Chinnereth, as already
stated, a fruitful country and one truly blessed of God, ex-
tending itself before the eye, and presenting an abundance
of earthly treasures.
There prevails a calm nearly the whole year on the
* JosepliUB (BcU. Ju(!., book iii., chap. 18), gives tlio dimiinsions 100
stadia in Icngtli, and 40 in breadth.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 47
Sea of Chinnereth ; when, however, a storm does arise,
which is seldom the case, it occurs very suddenly, and
then, in a few minutes, the boats which may be caught
out in it are generally upset. The force of the waves in
that case is also so great, that many of the houses in town
are thereby endangered.
WATERS or MEROM. OnO *» OR OOID D'
(JoBhua xi. 6.)
This little lake is called by the Arabs Bachr Chit,
Wheat Sea, because much wheat is sown in its neighbour-
hood ; it is also called Bachr Banias, or improperly Bachr
Chuli. It is 10 English miles south of the sources of the
Jordan, and is about 5 English miles long and 31 broad.
It is only in winter, however, that this lake has water in
it, which is turbid and muddy, paid in which fish are
found. In summer, however, it is dried up ; and it is then
a swamp overgrown with weeds, and then serves the
Arabs, who come hither with their numerous flocks, and
encamp thereon during the whole summer, as a pasture^
ground. Many canes also grow here, among which wild
beasts, &c., find shelter, especially serpents and wild boars.
Not far from the village Malcha, situated on its northern
shore, the Jordan enters this lake. The inhabitants of
the village just named cultivate the rice plant in this
vicinity, which is the only place in Palestine where this
plant grows. This rice, which is sent to the other towns,
is quite singular in its colour and flavour ; it is red in ap-
pearance, and swells in cooking to an unusual degree.
The western portion of this lake is inhabited by the
Duphni- Arabs, who derive their name from the town of
Daphne (Riblah), which formerly stood in this district.
(See Riblah p. 26.)
GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
RIVERS OF PALESTINE.
(Nnn
9.)
The Jordan has its sources near the most northern
pomt of Palestine, and issueB from the cave of Paneas,
situated about one hour's distance south of the town of
Baniaa, whence its name Jord {i. e. Yored. flowing down
from), Dan (Bcchoroth, fol. 55 a) ; or p "nst' the " stream
of Dan." It is at first very small, but receives afterwards
an increase through the stream Dan, which has its source
2i English miles northeast of Banias, and through the
much larger one Chaspeia, called by the Arabs Kvmni,
perhaps BO denominated from the town of Korun, men-
tioned in 2 Maccabees xii. 21. These various streams
are united in the afore-mentioned Bachr Banias, and form
afterwards, at its termination, the river Jordan. The
farther south the Jordan flows, the deeper and broader it
becomes. It is, for example, south of the waters of Merom,
about 20; 80 to the south of Chinnereth; 90 near Jericho;
and near the shore of the Dead Sea, 200, nay, at times
300 paces broad. In the same manner ia its depth, which
amounts near Chinnereth only from G to 7 feet, but near
Jericho and the shores of the Dead Sea, from 10 to 12.
This depth, however, it attains only in the winter months
(Josh. iii. 15; 1 Chron. xii. 15), whereas in summer it is
only about 3 feet deep.
The Jordan, the water of which is light and good for
drinking, is so rapid a stream that even the best swimmer
cannot bathe in it without endaugeriug his life. In the
neighbourhood of Jericho, the bathei-s are compelled to
tie themselves together with i-opes, to prevent their being
swept off by the rapidity of the current. There are the
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 49
three following bridges spanning the Jordan. The first
is a large stone bridge, 60 paces in length, and was built
by Baldwin IV., in the year 4872 A. m. (1112), and put
again in good repair in modem times by Ibrahim Pacha ;
it is 7 English miles south of the point where the Jordan
issues from the sea of Merom, and is called Djisr Abni
Jaacob, which means the Bridge of Jacob's Sons, because
it is designated as the spot where the patriarch Jacob,
with his family, passed over the Jordan, on his return
from Haran. (But this assumption is evidently erroneous,
because he pursued his journey over Sukkoth and Salem ;
consequently not north, but south of the sea of Chinnereth.
But it is possible that Jacob took this route when he first
set out on his journey to the east, when quitting his
father's house.) The second is the smaller bridge south
of Chinnereth, Djisr Midshama, i. e. the Bridge of the Con-
fluence of the Waters, because it is near the confluence of
the Jordan and Yarmuch — (here is also a bridge leading
over the Yarmuch) ; — and the third is also a small struc-
ture, near the village Samach, not far from Chinnereth,
and bears the name of Djisr al Knaphir.
The Arabs call the Jordan, till its entrance injto Lake
Chinnereth, Al Urdan ; but south thereof they designate
it as Al Sherian, or Al Sheriath.
II. THE KISHON {WD
( Jud. iy. 7, y. 21 ; 1 Kings xyiii. 40 ; Ps. Ixxxiu. 10)
Is called by the Arabs Nahr Mijkata, i. e. the Stream of
Slaughter — (the Mount Carmel has also the same desig-
nation, Ras al Mukata, because Elijah slew there the pro-
phets of Baal) — and bears also the name of Keifa. It
has its source south of Mount Tabor, runs southwesterly
through the valley of Jezreel, runs then through a moun-
tain ridge to the plains of Akko, near the foot of Carmel^
and falls into the Mediterranean Sea east of Keifa.
4
50 GEOGKAPUT OF PALESTINE.
Kislion, the waters of which ai-e clear and of a greeniBh
colour, is in simuner a very small stream ; but in winter,
when the rains pour down torrents from the mountoiuH of
Ephraim and Samaria, it becomes bo broad that the whole
valley of Jezreel is covered with water, which renders it
impassable for several days.
It strikes me that this Kishon is identical with the
waters of Megiddo njO '0, mentioned in the song of De-
borah (Jud. V. 19); "Then fought the kings of Canaan
near Taanach by the waters of Megiddo." Taanach is 2i
English miles south of Megiddo, and both towns are
situated in the valley of Jezreel ; and there is no other
river in that vicinity Ireside the Kishon, and doubtlessly
it was designated as the waters of Megiddo, because it
flows by that town. (In the Talmud YerushalmJ, sect.
Shebiith, there ia mention made, among the boundary
lines of the returning exiles, as stated above, of Gaathon
and the waters of Gaathon, which I hold to be identical
with Megiddo and the waters of Megiddo.) It is curious
that the common people call, though erroneously, by the
name of the waters of Megiddo, the stream which issues
near Miron, and is used to drive several water-mills, and
i'alls into Chinnereth after passing by Zafed. This latter
bears the Arabic name of Wady Amud.*
in. THE KANAH TtJB
(Josh, xrii, 9)
Forms the boundary line between Ephraim and Menas-
seh, and has its source about 1 English mile west of She-
* Southeagt of Mount Tnbor there is a small river, called Al Sharer, bo
termed from it» passing near the village of that uame. tt is also called
Wady Birfe, and falls into Jordan 1 i Hnglisb milcB below the bridge of
Midsharaa. The author of Cupbtor Vapherach supposcR this to be the
Kishon; but this aiwuinplioD ia quit« crroDCoua, na Kishon must be near
Canuel, as appears from 1 Kings xviii. 40.
THE SEAS, BIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 51
chem, on the road to Ladshinin (En Gannim), in a large
spring called Ain al Kazab, or the spring of reeds, cane or
reed being called in Arabic Kazab, as in Hebrew Kaneh.
It flows westwardly, and is used for irrigating the fields ;
and after acquiring a considerable breadth, it falls into
the Mediterranean Sea south of CsBsarea. It yet bears
the name of Wady al Kazab, " Cane River," and is doubt-
lessly the River Kanah of the Scriptures.
IV. THE GHERTTH. n'"0
(1 EingB ZTii. 8.)
This stream is not positively known. Some suppose it
to be the little rivulet Al Pacha, which flows into Jordan
opposite Shechem. But this must be erroneous, because
in 1 Kings xvii. 3, it says distinctly, " which is before (east
of) Jordan." I therefore am led to believe that the Wady
Alias (Elias' brook), which is south of Mahanaim, opposite
Beth Shean (which see), is the Cherith, and bears its pre-
sent name because it was the hiding-place of the prophet
Elijah. (See also Yerushalmi Terumoth, chap. 8.)
V. THE SHICHOB-LIBNATH HJD^ '^W\ff
(Josh. ziz. 26)
That is, the white or glass Shichor, was anciently called
Belus, and is the present Nvmun of the Arabs, and issues
from the mountains near the village of Meshdl al Krum,
and falls into the Mediterranean near Akko. Some think
that the little stream south of Akko, called by the Arabs
Ramie ^biatz, i. e. the stream of white sand, is the river
in question, sincfe, as it is well known, the sand of this
rivulet was formerly used in the manufacture* of glass.*
"^ See Megillah^ fol. 6 a, where (Deut. xxziii. 19) <<the treasure hid
in sand'' is explained to mean << white glass.''
82
GEOGRAPIIT OF PALESTINE.
VI. THE BEaOKE 11BI3
(1 Sun. III. 10)
Is at present a small etream south of Gazza, and is called
Nahr Sheria; it issues from the mountains of Judah, and
alao falls into the Mediterranean Sea.
Vn., Vin. KIDRON AND BILOA niSfl pilp
I mil explain when speaking of the holy city Jerusalem.
IX. THE aSKSA KVTl KJ'i
(CliuUii, foL 7 a; Yonuhftlmi SlielultD lii.)
la the name of a small river, which flows not far from
Ladshinin (En Gaimim), and becomes so broad in winter
that it is often impassable.*
BIVERS ON THE EAST SIDE 0? THB JOSDAS.
1. THB JABBOK pU'
{Gen. uui. 23)
Which forms the boundary between Palestine and the
land of Ammon, issues from the high mountaiua of Hau-
ran (which see), and divides the district of Mirad on the
north, from Balka on the south ; flows then westward in
the plain a distance of 4 English miles, and falls into Jordan
about midway between Chinnereth and the Dead Sea, op-
posite Shechcm. The Arabs call it Al Zerka, because it
paasea by the fortress of Zerka, situated on the route of
the pilgrime journeying from Damascus to Mecca.
* The occurreacc meotioned in the cited passage of Ohulin took place
at tho time of Peeach, at which time tho Qecua was in tliu ataUi of being
impassable.
THE SEAS, RIVEBS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. * 53
n. THE ABNON {IJIK
(Numb. zzi. 18; Dent Ui. 9)
Now called Al Mudjeb, divided the land of Moab from
j^alestine. It issues forth near the fortress of Katrani,
also on the above pilgrim route, at the distance of a day
and a half's journey east of the city of Karak (the ancient
Kir Moab ^10 yp). It divides the district Balka from
the just named one of Karak, and falls east of Hebron into
the Dead Sea.
m. THE ZERED TIT
(Numb. zzi. 12 ; Dent ii. 18)
Is not distinctly known. Some, however, say that it is
the little stream known as the Wady Abn6 Chamad,
which is north of the city of Karak, and south of the
Wady Mudjeb, just named, and falls likewise into the
Dead Sea.
IV. THE YARMUCH "JIDT
(Parfth, ch. yiii. 10; B. BaUura, 74 6)
Is now called Yurmuk, or Sheriath al Mandhur, also
Wady Mizrib, issues out of the mountains of Dj,olon (the
Golan of Deut. iv. 43), near the fortress of Mizrib, flows
through the district of Gader (Gadara), now called Am-
chais, aiid falls into the Jordan 4 English miles south of
Chinnereth. This stream, in its course through the moun-
tain, is small and shallow, but on the plain it has a
breadth of thirty paces.
r
v. THE AMANAH. HJDX
(2 Kings T. 12.)
Between the high mountains of the Djebl Heish, run-
54 GEOGRAPnr of Palestine.
ning from Banlas to Damascus, on the road which leads
to the village Midjdal (Migdal), there ia fouud a village
by the name of Bethal Djana. About li English miles
nortli of this village is found a large spring, called Al
Barady, that is to say, "the cold." Ita waters are clear
and excellent for drinking, and it flows northeast to Dar
mascus. This river, foniierly called Chrysorrhoas, i. e. Gold
River, and known in the Talmud Baha Bathra 74 6, as
the Karmion, is the identical Amanah of the Bible, as it
is actually called by all the Jews of Damascus, according
to a tradition which they have preserved. Near Damas-
cus this river divides itself in two branches ; the one part
flows through the city, whilst the other portion holds its
course without, and is used to irrigate the surrounding
country; it then runs eastwardly 18 English miles, and
then falls into the lake Al Bachr Murdj.
VI. THE FHABPAB. 1313
(2 Kings T. 12.)
On the road from Damascus to Baal-bek, not far from
the village Dar Kanon (Hazar-Enan), there is a village
called Fidjeh (the Figa of Parah viii. 10), north of which is
the source of the stream of the same name, which flows
southeasterly to Damascus, and unites with the Amanah
near the lake Murdj. Now this stream is the Pharpar,
as it is still called by our fellow-Lsraelites in the vicinity,
according t« tradition which tliey have. In case, there-
fore, that a divorce takes place in Damascus, they write
in the letter of divorce, " at Damascus, situated on the
two rivers Amana and Pharpar."
The other small streams will be explained in their
proper places.
THE SEAS, MVEBS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 55
THE PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS OF PALESTINE.
I. THE LEBANON. {UdS
This celebrated mountam, situated on the northern
boundary of Palestine, derives its name from its white
colour (Jer. xviii. 14), since the snow scarcely ever melts
on this elevated ridge, and because its snow-covered sum-
mit, which has an elevation of more than 10,000 feet
above the sea, is so high that it can be seen by those
navigating the Mediterranean, as soon as they approach
the island of C3rprus, although they are then at a distance
of 100 English miles from the same. This mountain takes
its rise south of the town of Chams, and extends south of
Tripoli as the promontory of Mount Hor ('inrr ^n Numb,
xxxiv. 7, called in the period of the Grecian domination
Theuprosopon, and now Ras al Shaka), as far as the Medi-
terranean, and thence it runs a distance of 12 English
miles to the south of Tyre, to the Has al Nakhara, where
its rocky cliffs, which are visible at a great distance, ex-
tend into the sea. On this rock is a narrow ascent, shaped
somewhat like steps, by which its summit can be reached ;
hence it is called in the Talmud yfUl N071D, the Ladder
of Tyre. (See Erubin, fol. 80 a, and Betza, 25 6.)
The highest point of the whole Lebanon range is the
Djebl Makmal. North of this point, which is south of
the town of Edn, is the village Beshirrai, in the vicinity
of which there is a cedar forest, consisting now of about
350 cedars, which to all appearance are several thousand
years old; and the largest of these measures about 40 feet
in circumference, and 90 feet in height.
On the east of Lebanon there is a large valley, now
called Al Bakaa, and formerly Coelesyria ;* and beyond
this is the eastern chain of this mountain, which is known
'*' See the EDtrance of Hamath, p. 25.
68 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
as the Auti-Lebauon. This extends eastward to the
vicinity of Damascus, where it gradually dimiiii^bes in
height, oud extends thus northward to the deaert and the
district of Chams, and southward to Dan or Laieh. This
range has two higli peaks, one of which is called Djebl
Sheich, also Djebl Theldj, i. e. Snow Mountain, and is
the Mount Hermon of the Bible, and almost rivals the
Makmal in elevation ; the other peak is called Djebl
Heish, and lies east of Dan, or Banias.
In the Bible, the term Lebanon is used to designate
both of the just described chains of mountains ; i. e. " Like
the tower of Lebanon, which looketb to the front of Da^
mascus" {Song of Sol. vii. 5), can only refer to the eastern
range, the Anti-Lebanon ; so also '" And all the Lebanon,
to the rising of the sun" (Josh. xiii. 5), cannot apply to
the western portion, or the Lebanon proper.
II. THE HEBMON ]T3in
Is, as said, the highest point of the Anti-Lebanon, and
is also termed in Scripture Sirion and Senir (Deut. iii. 8).
Even at the present time this ridge is designated by
various names ; for instance, the mount northwest of Da-
mascus is called Sanir (Senir); the one north of Chaspeia
Dtjebl Theldj ; and the one west of Baal-bek is termed
Lubnan. Hence it appears that the verse quoted refers
to the Djebl Heish just named, for it is north of the dis-
trict of Golan, where this mount appears as a high wall,
sloping down to the neighbourhood of the town Beth al
Dshana, near the spring Bai'ady or Amanah. The Bible,
howe\xr, does not always understand by the word Hermon
the eastern part of lA-banon only, or the I)jebl Heish
proper, but also the western part; as in Judges iii. 3,
"And the Hivites, the inhabitants of Mount Lebanon,
from Mount Baal Hermon to the entrance of Hamath,"
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 57
which proves that the terms Lebanon and Hermon are
indifferently used, occasionally, for both the eastern and
western ranges *
THE PRINCIPAL RIVERS OF THE LEBANON.
Besides the already described Amanah and Pharpar,
the following large rivers have their sources in the Lebsr
non and Anti-Lebanon.
I. AL AZT,
That is, the bold or the rebellious, is a large river
which flows northward from Lebanon, and its name is, as
I am told, partly derived from this circumstance, since all
the other streams have a southern course, and partly be-
cause it is a wild and rapid water course, which tears
away all the bridges which people attempt to throw over
it. In ancient times it was called Orontes, but is not
mentioned either in Talmud or the Scriptures. It issues
out of a large meadow called Djord Diidunie, 12 English
miles north of Baal-bek, takes a northerly course, by the
town of Chamath (Epiphania), Phamia, and Antiochia,
(Antakia), ajid falls south of the last into the Mediterra-
nean.
'*' In Psalm cxxxiii. 3^ occurs the following : ''Like the dew of Hermon,
which descendeth on the mountains of Zion.'' This yerse has greatly
perplexed the commentators ; but I venture to give this explanation. In
Deut. iv. 47, we read, "Unto Mount Sion ([K'ly), which is Hermon," of
course making the former a part of the latter; and assuming that the
Psalmist refers to this Sion, easily corrupted into Zion jvv, the more
familiar ]vrord, ho means to refer to the lower "height it has compared to
Hermon, wherefore the dew of Hermon is said to descend on the lower
mountains of Sion ; and indeed we find to this day the Djebl Sanin, north-
east of Beirut ; and should this be the mountain referred to by the Psalm,
the exposition will be quite natural and correct as I have indicated.
«»
GEOGRAPUT OF PALESTINE.
II. WADT CHABMEIA,
That IB) the dividing or separating stream. This river,
the ancient Leoutes,* takes its rise south of the city of
Baal-bek, flows southwesterly to the lower plain, Bakoar
tachtani, in the district ol' the ancient Beth-Rechob, and
falls into the Mediterranean to the north of Tyre.
III. NAim ABSAIH, .
Formerly Adonis, flows northward of the district Kis-
ruan, and south of Biblos, and falls tliere into the Medi-
terranean.
Also called Nahr al Kubbir, i. e. the Strong or Grand
River, formerly Eleutherus, flows north of Arka (which
will be more particularly described hereafter). The valley
of the river forms the most northern boundary of the
Lebanon, and extends from Hams (Epiphania) to the Me-
diterranean.
V. THE KKLB (DOO RIVEB'),
Flows nortb of Beirut, and takes its name, according
to some, from the circumstance that the Avites formerly
dwelt in this district, and Iiail, an their god, the idol Nib-
chaz, who is said to have been figured da a dog, according
to the authority of Talmud Sanhedrim, fol. 63 a. (See
also 2 Kings xvii. 31.) It had anciently the name of Li-
ciua (Lykos).
• In BOiiie ancient Arabic works, I found a river Nahr Alcud as qxist-
ing between Zor and Seide (Zidon). This would place in this position
Uie EleitheruH, which is, however, not found between Tyre and Zidon, as
I sball explujn hereafter. But it appears to tne that thia is an error of
the transLTiberE, and that it should be Leond, or the Iicontea, the same
as the Wady Chasmeia in question, as this is also known in the Arabic
books as Nahr Leond.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 69
YI. THE TAMUB^ OR AL KADI,
Flows at a distance of about 1 i English miles west of
the city Dir al Kamr, situated between Beirut and Zidon.
In winter it increases to such a size that it becomes a
rapid stream, and overflows its banks to a great extent ;
so that travellers are often detained on its shores six or
eight days, till the water returns to its former channel.
YII. THE ZABIBANI,
Is the last of these streams, and flows 5 English miles
south of Zidon.
THE PRINCIPAL PLACES AND DISTRICTS OF LEBANON.
It would lead me too far to give a minute description of
all the places in Lebanon and the country round about it.
I will, therefore, only note those which are mentioned in
the Scriptures, Talmud and other authoritative works.
Between the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, there is a
large valley, in Arabic, Al Bakaa, or " The Valley," an-
ciently Coelesyria, or the Chul of Gren. x. 23 ; it extends
northward up to the neighbourhood of .Chams (Epi-
phania), and southward to the vicinity of Tyre, near
which latter place it is called Bakaa-Tachtani, i. e. the
lower valley.
This great valley of the Lebanon is the pj^Sn n]^p3
"the Valley of Lebanon" of Joshua xi. 17, and the Hyy
non "the entrance of Hamath" of Num. xiii. 21. In
speaking of the battle which Joshua fought with the Csr
naanites at the Lake of Merom, it is said (Josh. xi. 3) that
Jabin sent to the Canaanite on the east and the west, and
to the Amorite, and the Hittite, and the Perizzite, and
the Jebusites in the mountain, and to the Hivite under
Hermon in the land of Mizpeh." Now, according to my
view, is here .meant the eastern valley of the Djebl Heish,
mentioned above, and now called Heish Shakara ; where
60
GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINK.
I
is found, at this day, 10 English miles north of Kanitra,
the village of Tel Djube, Hebrew Goba, which m similar
in signification to Mizpeh, both meamog a liigh place
whence an object can be seen at a distance. (Goba — Gibah
is transformed into the Arabic Djube by changing the
Hebrew Girael into the Arabic Jim.) The most southern
height of the Djebl Heish h called Tel Farash, that ia,
Joshua's Mount, because the Arabs call Joshua Farash,
probably from the circumstance that he may have pur-
sued the Conaanitish kings to this point. It is also
said in the chapter cited, ui verse 8, that the IsraeUtes
pursued their enemies (westward) as far as Zidon, and
(eastward) to the valley of Mizpeh; it is farther said,
in verse 17, that Joshua conquered the country from
the Bald Mountain (Halak), which is in Seir, to Baal-
gad in the valley of the Lebanon, under Mount Her-
mon. which should induce us to assume that Baal-gad is
identical with the present Banias, of which we have
already spoken. This district of Baal-gad was particu-
larly noted for the criminal idolatry whicli wa.i at all
times practised there. It was there that the idol Baal-gad,
already existing in the time of Joshua,' was worshipped
aa late as the days of Isaiah (chap. v. 11 ), " Who set a table
for the Qur' (English version, " for that troup," which,
however, hardly means anything; whereas, it is highly
significant when taken as the name of a heathen divinity).
It was there, at Dan or Laish, afterwards called Paneas, or
Csesarea Philippi, where the children of Dan set up the
image of Mieah (Judges xviii. 31), and where, at a later
peri*i, Jeroboam set up one of the golden calVes (1 Kings
xii. 28) to mislead Lsrael to sin. It was there where the
image of the cock-idol was worshipped by the Cutheans in
the town of Tamegola, consecrated to the god^Nergal (2
Kings xvii. 30 ; see also Targum Jonathan ; Num. xxxiv. ;
likewise Talmud Yerushalmi, Demai, chap, ii.) ; and
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 61
there it was at last, where in later tinier, the Grecian idol
Pan was worshipped, whence then the name of the town
of Paneas, near which is the cave of Banias, in which
there are stones bearing inscriptions having reference to
the worship of Pan. The more recent name of the time
of the crusaders of Belias for Banias, is founded upon the
original appellation of the same Baal-gad (Joshua xi. 17).*
In this large plain, between the Lebanon and Anti-
Lebanon, there also stood formerly the celebrated city
Heliopolis, consecrated by the Greeks to the worship of
the sun (from Helis, the sun, Polis, town), which is now
known as Baal-bekf (from Baal, Belus, and Bikah, valley).
This town is still famous for its remarkable ruins, which
are undisputably the most gigantic in all Palestine, and
are well calculated to influence every beholder with asto-
nishment. Li the remains of the ancient Temple of the
Sun can be seen stones which are 60 feet in length, 12 in
thickness, and 12 in height; and the simple view of these
blocks causes a species of awe ; as no one can imagine how
human hands were enabled to erect so wonderful a struc-
ture. This colossal building,J erected by Solomon, it being
'*' This vicinity is also probably the site of Baal-Hamoii; mentioned in
the Song of Solomon viii. 11 , where it is not nnlikely that the Egyptian
idol Amon (see Jer. zlyi. 23)^ was worshipped by Pharaoh's daughter,
the wife of the Israelitish Kmg. This idol, the Jupiter Ammon of the
Greeks, was worshipped in the city Diospolis, i. e. Jupiter's town, which
the Targumin suppose to be Alexandria, but which others allege to be
Thebes, in Upper Egypt, where are still found the most remarkable and
extensive ruins of idol temples. It is, therefore, probable that the idola-
trous queen transplanted the name of Amon, changed into the Hebrew
Hamon, from Egypt to the country around Lebanon, and hence, then,
Baal-Hamon, the God Amon. Perhaps Baal may also refer to the idol
Baal or Belus.
f The passage in Tractate Maaseroth, chap. v. § 8, '33 S;?3 DW trans-
lated usually (strong) ^'garlick, which excites tears,'' appears to me to
be only "the garlik of Baal-bek," the cht being substituted for the k.
X According to Josephus (Antiq. viii. book viii., chap. 2), was the Baalath
GEOGRAFETT OF PALESTINE.
undoubtedly the nS^D Baalath mentioned in the Brst
book of Kings (ix. 18), was deatrojed in the year 5102
(1402), by the conqueror Tamerlane;* and that which re-
sisted his destructive inroad was overthrown 356 years
later, through the terrific earthquake in the year 5618
(1758), which caused such great devastation in the plain
of Lebanon and the country of Galilee.
Through a close inquiry, I have succeeded in ascer-
taining that Mount Lebanon is at present divided into 16
districts, of which, however, I mean to enumerate those
only whicli are mentioned, in the Talmudic writings, and
which are situated south of the town of Tripoli (Trablus),
in the direction of Mount Hor, the northern extremity of
Palestine (Num. xxxiv. 7); but I intend to devote, in the
sequel, a chapter to the countries which form the northern
boundary line of the laud of Israel.
I
Or Trahlusf al Sham (Tarpelites of Ezra iv. 9), is the
Sin of Gen. x. 17, wherefore Saadiah translates it with
Trablision. Even at the present time there is, north of
this city, a village called Al Sini ; it is also called, in the
Answers of Mafiaritz, Sinim (chap, xxxvi). Trablus is dis-
tant fi-om the sea about 1 i miles, and the river Abualia
passes through it. Of our fellow-Israelites there reside at
crooted by Solomon in the vicinity of Gczer of Joshua x. 33, not far from
Ja& on the Mediterranean, in the country of Ephraim. According
to this nssumptiun, it would appear that this town hod the origin and
deriTed its name from the same circuinatancc as that in the tribe of Dan.
(See Jnahua xlx. 44.) But Rablii Benjamin of Tudela thinks that the
temple of Baal-bck wan originaUy the house built by Solomon for Pha-
raoh's daughter in Lebanon, (1 Kings vii. 8.)
* Of which more in the historical part, which see.
f In Talmud Fcrushalmi Sabb., chap. i.. is mentioned that Rabbi
Simeon t^iught in Atrnbulia, by which, probably, the present Trablus is
meant.
THE SEAS, mVEBS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 63
present only twelve families, although their Synagogue is
a large, strong, and massive building, which would indicate
that formerly there must have been here a much larger
congregation. At the time of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela,
the celebrated traveller, this city was visited by a terrible
earthquake, which threw down the walls of the town
and many houses, and buried many inhabitants alive
imder the ruins of their dwellings. But in other places,
also, the convulsion of nature was so great, that, as this
traveller reports, more than 20,000 human beings lost
their lives in Palestine through this calamity. The same
occurrence is noticed by Rabbi Joseph Hackohen (fol. 22
6), that in the year 4930 (1170) there happened a terrific
earthquake in the East, through which the city of Tripoli
was overthrown, burying its inhabitants, and that Antio-
chia also was nearly totally destroyed by the same calamity.
Southeast of Trablus is the district Al Danie, where the
above-described cedars of Lebanon are found. West of the
highest peak of the Lebanon, Makmal, is the district Art
Akluk, which is probably the ♦Np 7p Kalkai often men-
tioned in the Talmudical writings. (See Negaim, in the
beginning of chap. x. ; also in Targum Jonathan, to Numb.
xxxiv. 8.)
Southwest of this is the land of the Gibbim (Gebal,
Joshua xiii. 5; 1 Kings v. 32; Ezek. xvii. 9), called by the
Greeks Biblos, now called Djebel. East of this district, on
the above-mentioned river Abraim, is the town of Aphica,
which I take to be the Aphek of Joshua xiii. 4.
Between Tripoli and Biblos, on the shore of the sea, is
the town of Botrus, of which Phoenician city Josephus
speaks in his Antiq., book viii., chap. 7.
In the district of Al Shahar is found the village Ami
(probably the village Aimi mentioned in Talmud Yeru-
shalmi Nedarim, chap, iv., and ibid, end of Yoma).
»
ut of tiie town Mar Hana, in the district of Al Shuf,
belonging to the territory of Beirut, ia the spring of Achab,
in Arabic Ein Achab (see Parah, chap. viii. § 11). which
falls into the river Abraim. In the same district is found
the village Biyuth-athir, doubtlessly a corruption for Biyu-
tar, a city referred to in Challah, chap, iv, § 10, as Bittar,*
and not to be mistaken for the ancient Bethar, near Jeru-
salem, not far from Malcha, or the celebrated Bethar not
£ar from Kaplar Salm {Gittin, fol. 57 a).
In the district of Al E^urd is the town of Batchnn ; it ie
not to 1k! mistaken, as no doubt some have done, for the
Bctuch l)elonging to the cities of lladarezer (2 Sam. viii. 8).
Two and a half English miles south of Baal-bek is the
village Rabcha, perhaps the Richpa mentioned in Maase-
roth V. § 8, as the Arabs so often transpose the letters;
hence Ripcha, then Rabcha,
Twenty-five miles southeast of Baal-bek is the village
Sachala, where the inhabitants point out a monument,
which they allege to mark tlie grave of Noah. That, how-
ever, but little faith can be placed in such like popular
legends, will appear from the fact that also in the land of
Armenia, in the vicinity of Mount Dshudi (the Ararat of
Gen. viii. 4), on which the ark rested at the flood, they
also point out an alleged grave of Noah. But other
similar examples can be cited to prove the credulity of the
people in gi^'ing currency to unauthenticated legends. So
the grave of Moses is shown south of the town of Hams,
near the sea and the village, where it is, is called Keber
Mosheh, Moses" Grave, when it is well known that the
sepulchre of this holy man is east of the Jordan (Dent,
xxxiv. 6). The grave of Job is pointed out at Constanti-
nople, also east of the Jordan (see Caphtor Vapherach, fol.
70 b), again in Armenia, and finally in India, not far
* In Talmud FeraBhalmi, »nil in eome uther old books, I find the pas-
sage in Challah to state "inrj Bejotar, not Bittar, as we read in our boolts.
Buina of Baalbeok,
riJ>hshc<l i^A.^J^rt PhJlidglpXit
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 65
firom the Persian boundary line, consequently in four dif-
ferent places.*
The northern part of Lebanon is almost a complete desert
and uninhabited, and only in its southern part are there
any settlements, of which, however, agreeably to my plan,
I shall mention the following only.
South of Djebl Sheich, which is identical with Hermon
or the Snow Mountain, is the district Al Chaspeya, in
which is found the city of the same name, mentioned in
Talmud Yerushalmi, — Demai, chapter ii. South of this
place, is the river Chaspeya, called by the Arabs Koroni,
which is the source of the Jordan, and flows to the south
of the district of Dan, and unites there with the river Dan
and the Jordan. West of this river, that is to say, 12 i
English miles north of the sea of Merom, is the village
Abel (Beth Maacha 2 Sam. xx. 14). Near this are the
villages Abel al Kamach, and Abel al Krum,f which
latter is not to be mistaken for Abel Keramim of Judges
xi. 33, which is the land of Gilead. South of the
first Abel, and north of Abel al Kamach, is the village
Zeredah, where the grave of Jose of Zeredah is found.
This village also has the name of Chamas. Not far from
this is the village of Barthotha, in which is the grave of
Eliezer of Barthotha. (Aboth i.) Perhaps this is the town
of Beruthi mentioned by Josephus, which I have noticed
above.
The inhabitants of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon are
mostly Druses ; they are called Philistines by the Jews,
* There is a hint in Targum Echa (Lamentations) to chap. iv. 21, that
Job should have lived in Armenia, as y^); the land of Uz, where Job
dwelt, is given with Armenia.
f The Jewish inhabitants of the town of Chaspeya carry their dead
across the stream to Abel al Krum, because they have a tradition that the
river Chaspeya formed the boundary line of Palestine, and they wish to
inter the dead in the Holy Land. But this boundary line was only so
after the return from' Babylon, as I have shown at the proper ^Uce above.
66 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
who perhaps do this in cunsoiiauco with sorae tradition
that tlie present mountaineers are thus descended. These
Druses are under the government of the Amir Abshir,
who resides at Dir al Kamar, a town al>out 20 Enghsh
miles northeast of Tyi-e. The reUgion of these people
consists of a mixture of Cliriatiau and Mahomediui <loe-
trines, and they are much given to immorality and geueral
looseness of conduct. Their chief occupation consists m
the production of silk and cotton fabrics ; and they are
also engaged in agriculture, and their wine especially is
very good, and considerable quantities of cotton wool are
likewise produced by them.
The Lebanon is also inhabited by a Christian sect, called
Marouites, who have a convent in the town of Kanabin,
in the district of Al Donie, where their patriai'ch, or the
chief of their religion, resides. The Maronites are, how-
ever, often persecuted by the Druses, who far exceed them
in numbers, and are occasionally murderously assailed by
them. Only a few years back, in the year 0603 (1843)
and in 5605 (1845), wars of this nature took place, in which
a large number of Christians lost their Uvea. These Maro-
nites, as well as the small Mahomedan population found in
the momitains, are, with the Druses, mider the government
of the above-mentioned Amir.
h\ only three phices of Mount Lebanon ai-o Jewish inhatii-
tants found: in TripoU, as already stated, twelve families,
in Dir Al Kamar eighty families, the heads of whom are
mostly merchaiits, and in Chaspeya near thirty families.
The Jews are greatly beloved by the Druses, and they are
active agriculturists, Uke the other inhabitants of the moun-
tains, and noted for their courage and bravery. Even the
girls engaged in tending the tJocks go armed with pistols
and javelins, and Iwldly defend themselves against wild
beasts and rol>bers. About twenty-four years ago, a Jewish
girl of Chaspeya waa tending b6r llock in the field, when a
THE SEAS, BIVEBS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 67
Turk threatened to do her violence, as she was alone, and
no one near to come to her aid. But she drew forth her
pistol and ordered him on pain of death to desist firom his
attempt ; and as he would not listen to her, she levelled
her weapon and shot him dead on the spot. She was cited
to appear before the judges ; and she was not only acquitted
of all blame, but much praise was publicly awarded to her
for her intrepidity and courageous behaviour.
In the year 5591 (1831), when the mountaineers of the
district of Sanur (which see), who occupied the fort of the
same name, rebelled against the then Pacha of Akko (St.
Jean D'Acre), Abdalla, and had caused a great slaughter
among his troops, he requested of the Amir to aid him with
some of his bravest men to subdue the rebels. The Amir
assented, and sent him about one hundred Jews firom Dir
al Kamar and Chaspeya, who, greatly to their renown,
reduced the stronghold of Sanur, which the Pacha there-
upon ordered to be levelled to the ground, and it has re-
mained in this state ever since.
The Amir is subject to the Sultan of Constantinople, to
whom he pays the legal tribute, that is, when it suits him,
for he is nearly independent in his moimtain fastnesses
amidst the towering Alps, and he need not fear the armies
which his nominal sovereign might be induced to send
against him. In the year 5594 (1834), when the so-
called peasant war raged in the Holy Land, and the
Fallahin laid waste the city of Zafed, the Amir came with
his army and delivered the Jews firom the power of their
enemies; for at that time the Druses were on fiiendly
terms with Ibrahim Pacha. Nevertheless, four years
later, when the mountaineers were at war with their
former ally, Ibrahim, they suddenly surprised Zafed, and
plundered the Jews residing there. In the progress of the
war, however, they were overcome by the Egyptian Pacha,
notwithstanding the strength of their position, after a pro-
GEOGRAFBY OF PALESTINE.
longed struggle. This occurred in 5598 (1838) ; and this
defeat has greatly reduced their power. (Fuller particulars
of these events will l)e found in the hLstorical part of this
work. )
TlIE MOUNTAINB OF GALILHE.
Having thus described the Lebanon, situated at the
northern liraita of Palestine, we must now notice the other
more southerly mountains of the Holy Land.
In the same manner as the Hermon (Djebl Shcich) gra^
dually expands in a chain of lower bills t<j the southeast,
forming there the Djebl Heish; it also extends to the
southwest through means of the momitaius of Upper Ga-
lilee, anciently the mountains of Naphtali, and both these
chains enclose the plain of the Lake iSemecbonitis (Waters
of Merora). On the northwest portion of this lake eomraence
the mountains of Zafed, which are a part of the southern
portion of the Djebl Sheich. From tbc Bridge of Jacob's
Sons, which spans the Jordan, there extends a plain about
4 Englisii, miles in length, and at ita termination begin
the mountains of Naphtali, the summit of which, called
Djebl Zafed, is reached by a gradual ascent of 4 English
miles in length. Djobl Sheich is thence visible in a north-
east dire<ition, and the sea of Chinnereth to the south.
The descent of this mount to the south is also very gradual,
and after a walk of 8 English miles, the traveller reaches
the city of Zafed. On the road to Mount Tabor, alwut
15 English miles in length, there are constantly in
view, in the plain, ranges of mountains in the distance.
Northwest of Zafed, towards Tyre, there is a hilly country
30 miles in extent, which is very productive. ■ On the
west side of Zafed, on a clear day, the Mediterranean Sea,
near Akko, is distinctly visible. In the direction of Zip-
pori (Sephoria), the country ia an unproductive range of
hilla; whereas, in the immediate neighbourhood of the
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 69
just-named city, there is a very fruitful plain, anciently
called the plain of Zebulun. (See MegiUah, fol. 6 a.)*
From the city of Nazareth to Tiberias, is a mountainous
country; and the descent to Lake Chinnereth is by a
steep road over the hills, of only 2 J miles, and from Naza-
reth southward to the valley of Jezreel it is 2 miles in
length.
THE LAND OF GALILEE,
(1 Kings ix. 11,)
Is an elevated plain, which gradually descends west-
ward to the level of the sea, near Akko (St. Jean D'Acre),
southward to the plain of Jezreel, but terminates abruptly
at the east in the level of Lake Chinnereth and the plain
of the Jordan. This country is divided into
UPPER AND LOWER GALILEB.f
The former comprises, in a word, the whole mountains
of Naphtali, the Djebl Zafed to the mountainous district of
* Resh Lakish said, I saw the valley of Zippori flowing with milk and
honey, and it was sixteen mill long by sixteen mill broad.
f We read in Mishna Shebiith, chap. ix. § 2, " From the village of
Chananiah (now Kefer Anon), where no Shikmin (see Art. Shikmin
farther on) grow, is Upper Galilee ; but south of this village, where
Shikmin do grow, is Lower Galilee;" consequently the present Kefer Anon,
which is about 3 English miles southwest from Zafed, is here regarded
as the dividing line between the two districts in question. Joscphus,
however, holds the following language concerning the bounds of Galilee,
Bell. Jud. b. iii. chap. 3: ''Now Phoenicia and Syria encom|Mi08 about
the Galilees, which are two, and called Upper Galilee and the Lower,
They are bounded towards the sunsetting with the borders of the territory
belonging to the Ptolemais and by Carmel, which mountain had formerly
belonged to the Galileans, but now belonged to the Tyrians, to which
mountain adjoins Gaba (Chepha na'n), which is called the City of Honte-
meuj because those horsemen that were dismissed by Herod, the king,
dwelt therein. They are bounded on the south with Samaria and Scytho-
polis, as far as the river Jordan ; on the east with Hippene and Gadaris,
and also with Gaulanitis and the borders of the kingdom of Agrippa ;
its northern parts are bounded by Tyre and the country of the Tyrians.
70 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
ShaRhar (see the foregoing note to Zedad to the name nD13
NIU'JD 13l)j consequently from the northwest point of
Ah for that Giililec which is called the Lower, it extends in length from
TiberiuB to Zcbulou, and of the maritime places, Ptolemaia is its neigh-
bour; its breadtl; is from the Tillage called Xiiluth (Gineea), which lies
in the great plain, as far as Bcrsabe, from whieh beginning also h taken
the breadth uf the Upper Galilee, hr fax aa the village Baca, which divides
the land of the TyriatiB from it ; its length is also from Meloth (Me-
roth) to Thella, a village near to Jordan." It is, iudecd, difficult to
a«certaJn the exteot of Galilee from this deseription, since ne do not
know, nccuratel}', all the names of the pluces mentioned therein. I
presume that Baca (the Baliti of some cditious is undoubtedly an error of
the prcBs) is to bo sought for in the soutbem part of Coelcsyria, in Arabic
Baaka (from j'pa, a hollow, a valley), which extends to the vicinity of
Tyre, and that the village had the name name as the valley in wliieh it
stood (see ;iDn ttnS). Thella is undoubtedly the ancient Teltum, now
Chirbath Tillum, situated on the northwest shore of the Lake of Tiberias.
Meroth (in Bome editions Meloth) appears to me to be the village Ai
Magr (the Cave), 2i English miles east of Akko. (The Arabic Magr ia
the Hebrew Ma'ar i>'3, as Gain stands for 'Ain). Saloth cannot possibly
be the town of Kcsuloth, spoken of in Joshua xix. 18, situated near
Mount Tabor, since the Xaloth of Joaephus is said to be the most
southern point of Galilee, and can, therefore, not be sought for near
Tabor. I, therefore, believe that tbo reading Gineca, is the cnrreet one,
in plaee of Xalotb, and signifies the modern Dsbinin (En Gannim of
Joshua six. 21), which is actually situated on the great plain Merdj
Abn Anir, the ancient valley of Jfzreel or Megiddo, and can, therefore,
be token justly as the most southern point of Galilee. I think myself
authorised to maintain that the reading Xaloth is absolutely erroneous,
and that it should bo CSttk, the modem Kefer Kuth, i English miles
west of Dsbinin, since I &ud in this name a trace of the 7ijni^' -^siD, men-
tioned in Oittin, fol. TG a, and Yerushalmi Baba Meiia, chap. 7, Kcfar
'Utna, and changing the 'Ain for Gain, would giveusGutna, which is easily
corrupted into Kuth ; and if this supposition be correct, then do Jose-
phua and the Talmud agree as to the southern point of Galilee. Zululim :
north of the Shafouier (pytsa) on the road to Akko, is found a spring
called Ain Zabulonj perhaps there onoe stood near it the city of the
same name, which is mentioned by Josephus in the extract I have givoD-
Otbers, however, think that the h>wn of Zcbulon mentioned by Joscphus,
is the town of Chahul, which is situated at a distance of 6 English miles
north-northeaat of Akko.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 71
Lake Chinnereth to the Mediterranean Sea near Tyre.
Lower Galilee, however, comprises the mountain range of
Zippori, the present Sefuri, the Mount Tabor, and the
Little Hermon (Djebl Duhu), and the mountains of Gilboa,
consequently the whole district, from the Jordan near
Beth Shean, to Mount Carmel, and it forms the north-
eastern boundary, or edge, of the valley of Jezreel.
Li Upper Galilee, therefore, are situated the moimtains
of Naphtali, called Djebl Zafed, and in Lower Galilee,
opposite Tiberias, near the village of Chittin, is the high
mount, Kum Chittin, which is, the Summit of Chittin.
This mount is celebrated in history ; for it was here that
a great battle was fought on the 4th of July, 4947 (1187),
between Saladin, King of Egypt, and the Christians,
when Guy. (Guidon) of Lusignan, was taken prisoner by
the Mussulman king, who afterwards captured Jerusalem
from the Christians, and put an end to their kingdom in
Palestine. Five English miles from this mount is the one
famous in the history of the prophetess Deborah (Judges
iv. 6), to wit:
THE MOUNT TABOR.
This handsome mount, situated in the land of Issachar,
and called by the Arabs Djebl Tur, commands a view of
the most agreeable district of the whole country, and is near
3000 feet high.* On its summit, which is 1 i English miles
in circumference, was formerly a city of the same name, as
will be made evident by a reference to Joshua xix. 22, and
which was a fortified place even as late as the times of
Josephus, when, however, it was destroyed by Titus. The
Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, had
* According to the Midrash Yalkut to Deut. xxxiii. 18, it is the moun-
tain on which the temple ought of right to have been built, on account of
its being the most elegant and highest of all the elevations in Palestine,
had it not been for the express revelation which ordered the sanctuary to
be erected on Mount Moriah.
?a GEIWRAPIIY OF PALESTINE.
a monastery built on this uioiiut; and to this day the ruins
of this structure, consisting of the walls, arc still existing,
and on the western portion there is yet a large archway,
in which the gatti was. On the side of Tabor there ia a
forest of oak trees, in which many wild boars are found.
The Turks built a fortress on thi.s mount in the time of
Innocent the Third.
THE PLAIN OF JEZREF.L. THB VA.LLEY OF MKOIDUON.
(Joahua Kiii. 16; Zecb. xii. II.)
ThLs valley, called also Esdrelou, and by the Arabs
Merdj Abn Amr, extends from east U> west 20 English
miles, and froui north to south from 10 to 12, and i.'§ en-
closed on all sides by mountains, to wit, on the north by
Mount Tabor, on the south by the mountains of Ephraim
(or the mountains of Samaria, Jer. xxxi. 5, 6), on the
northeast by the mountains of Gilboa (1 Sam. xxxi. 1),
which are 1200 feet high, and now called Galban by the
Arabs, and at last, on the southwest, by Mount Cannel {1
Kings xviii. 19), at the lout of which the bro(jk Kishon
flows, which takes its course through this plain to that of
Akko, This plain of Jezreel, which extends to the Lake
Chinnereth, does not present, as the word would seem to
imply, a perfect level throughout its extent, .since it is
traversed by several low ridges towards the centre, amcmg
which must be particularly noticed the Djebl Duhu, also
called the Little Hemion,* which ia at the distance of 2i
English miles south of Tabor. Between this and Gilboa
there is a narrow valley, about 2 English miles in length,
which is called by some the valley of Sharon. It was lor
the inhabitants of this narrow valley that the High priest
prayed on the day of Atonomeat, " that their houses might
* Perhaps reforenco u made lo tliis inmiiit in Psulin lixxix. 13: "Tabor
twd Henuon aliaJI ri^joiee in thy name," — eviJuully referriug to con-
tignoDS positions.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 73
not become their graves" (Talmud Yerushalmi Yoma, chap,
v.), as they were in constant danger of being overwhelmed
in their houses, through the moimtain torrents, which,
however, could not happen to the inhabitants of that
Sharon which is alongside of the Mediterranean, distant
from any mountain, and consequently could not suffer from
such an overflow as mountainous countries alone are ex-
posed to. This little valley extends to the Lake Chinne-
reth, and there is in it a village called Shirin, perhaps
derived from the original Sharon. The mountains of Gil-
boa extend eastwardly, and separate the plain of Jordan
from that of Jezreel. Beth Shean (Joshua xvii. 11) is
situated in the valley Al Ghor, which is 5 English miles in
breadth. 3i miles north of Megiddo was formerly a fort
and the village of Saba, wherefore the plain of Jezreel was
called in the times of Josephus the plain of Saba. From
this valley to the great desert near Gazza, and the Dead
Sea, are a succession of mountain ridges, first the mountain
of Ephraim, and then t6 the south the mountains of Judah.
Both these chains gradually descend in the west to the
level of the Mediterranean, and on the east to the plain of
the Jordan and the shores of the Dead Sea.
THE MOUNT OP EPHRAIM D'")i)« "IH
(Joshua xyii. 16)
Is the same called, according to my opinion, the moun-
tain of Israel (Joshua xi. 21), in contradistinction to the
more southern mountain of Judah. It is, however, not a
single mount, as its name would seem to imply, but a long
chain, several days' journey in extent, which branches out
in all directions, on which were formerly many towns and
villages, of which many remains are yet found at this day.
The Talmud calls this range "iSDn IH* or KdSd IID
* In Menachothy fol. 109 h, occurs "he fled to the house of the king*'
"l^DH Ty:hf which I suppose to be an error of the transcriber, and shpuld
74 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
"Kin^' Mount" (see Giftin 57 b, and Jonathan ben Uriel
to Judges iv. 5). The uiounts Gerizzim and Eba! (Deut.
xi. 29), also Gaash (Judges ii. 9), Mount Zeraaraini (2
Chron. xiii. 4), and almost all the mountains of Jerusalem,
may be reckoned iis belonging to the range of this moun-
tain. Ebal lies noilh of Sheehem, and is a naked, barren
hill, 800 feet in height; but the Mount Gerizzira,* which
is southwest of the valley of Sheehem, is higher than Kbal,
and is very fruitful, aud forms the highest elevation of the
whole mountain of Ephraim, which extends southwesterly
to the low land near the sea nSsc (which will lie more
particularly spoken of hereafter), and the district of Ekron,
and southeast to Beth-El, and has a breadth from north to
south of two days' journey, and a length of one day's
journey,
MOUNT CARMF.L S-J-DH 171
(1 Kings iviii. 10)
Is called by the Arabs Djebl Mukata, i. e. the Mount of
Slaughter, because Elijah caused the prophets of Bsuvl to
be slaiu here. Just as the mountains of Gilboa extend to
the northeast of the valley of Jezreel, so tliere are to the
northwest of the same naked ridges, which form parts of
Carmel, which gradually declines to the sea, ( Jer. x\vi. IH.)
It has its name, which signifies The Fruitful, fmm its fruits
fulness and the abundance of its products. At its foot
grow many olive trees, also many laurels, and its summit
is covered with pines and other forest trees, and many
kinds of flowers are also to be met with there. It is 1500
feet high, and has many caves, especially on the west side,
and some allege to have counted mor6 than a thousand of
be ^^^n -"nS to the king's mount. For proof of tbia ootrectton being the
proper rc&ding, 1 refer to Talmud Yerushalmi Yonia, cLap. \i. .
* The Arabs cull it Djebl Hisan, which name, I suppose, is Jprived
froin the Blount Sion mentioned in the Book nf Josliat
Gen. xxsiv., in the wars of the Bona of Jacob.
THE SEAS, KIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 75
them. One of these, 20 paces in length and 15 in breadth,
has the name of the cave of Elijah or Elisha. The Carmel
affords the traveller a wide prospect : on its northern side
Akko can be distinctly seen, as also the termination of the
Lebanon, called Sulma Dezur, " the Ladder of Tyre," and
the Ras Abiat (the White Promontory which stands in
the sea); on the northeast side, Mount Hermon (Djebl
Sheich) can be seen, although distant 50 English miles.
The Empress Helena built on Carmel also a monastery.
Li the year 4987 (1227), the Christians who had come from
Europe built a fort here, which is, however, now a mere
ruin. The Carmel mountains extend southeasterly towards
the left side of the valley of Jezreel, till they touch the
mountains of Ephraim, in the neighbourhood of the village
Kut, which is west of Dshinin, the ancient En-Gannim.
THE MOUNTAINS OP JUDAH TyDU' nn
(Joshua xxi. 11.)
t'rom. Jaffa there extends itself eastward, on the road to
Ramleh, the highly fruitful and productive valley of Sharon,
which is 15 English miles in length. Then, however,
commence the mountains of Judah, which extend to Jeru-
salem, and the traveller has before him a constant ascent
and descent on the whole road of 15 English miles^ which
leads to the holy city. Near Jerusalem commence the
eastern moim tains, which extend a distance of 12 English
miles to the plains of Jordan, near Jericho.* To this range
of the mountains of Judah belong all the hills of Jeru-
salem ; for instance, the Temple Mount, Mount Zion, Mount
of Olives, also the more distant ones, the wilderness of
Tekoa (Zeruel, 2 Chron. xx. 16); En-Gedi (1 Sam. xxii.
2); Maon (ibid, xxiii. 24); Ziph (ibid. xxvi. 2), and Car-
* The high mountain called by the Christians Quarantania, situated
northeast of Gel)a (Joshua xviii. 24), belongs to the mountains of
Ephraim.
76 GEOGItAPnT OF PALESTINE.
mel (Joshua xv. 55). These mountainB, situated west
of the Dead Sea, approach its shore nearer and nearer
the farther they extend southward ; from Gazza, however,
westward, they leave the Mediterranean more and more
the farther they extend to the south. Near Hebron, the
mountain of Judah is 18 English miles in breadth, to wit,
from here to the MediteiTanean on the west 13, and east
to the Dead Sea 5 miles. In general may this range he
called an elevated plain ; since fmm Hebron to Mount Seir
(Deut. ii. 1), southwest of the Dead Sea, the whole road
leads constantly down hill to a deep valley; so also on
the south side the mountain declines graduiilly in a dis-
tance of 5 English miles'. Near Gazza commences the great
desert which extends to the Red Sea, near Mount Sinai.
ON THE SHORE OP THE MEDITERRANEAN,
From Ras al Nakhura, in Talmud called Sulma Dezur
"IIVT NO^ID the Rock Ladder of Tyre, to the confines of
Gazza, that is, from the north to the south of Palestine,
there is a large, rich, and fruitful district of low land, which
is boimded on the west by the Mediterranean, and on the
east by the mountains of Galilee, Ephraim, and Judah.
The Carmel divides the plain of Akko, which forms the
northeni, from that of Sharon and the low country (nifltJ'),
which fonn the southern portion of this great level. From
Tyre southward, there is a road cut out of the rocks lead-
ing over Ras al Albiat to Nakhura, where the plain of
Akko is seen lying at the foot of the mount. It is said
that this road is the work of Alexander of Macedon.
THE PLAIN OF AKKO
Commences at Ras al Nakhura, and extends in breadth
from north to south, over Akko to the foot of Carmel. The
Kiflhon and the Shichor-Libnath flow through the same.
It is in length 5 FInglish miles, and 15 in breadth.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 77
THE PLuUN OF CARMEL TO GAZZA.
From Mount Cannel to Gazza, there extends itself a
beautiful plain 100 miles in length and 10 to 15 in breath ;
and especially near Jaffa is it extremely rich and fertile,
and it is this portion which is called the valley of Sharon,
and commences near Dardura (the ancient Dor, Joshua xvii.
11), and in thi& delightful spot are met with the most
beautiful flowers, red and white in colour, in greater variety
than in any other part of Palestine. To the south of Jaffa,
Ramleh, and Jabneh, the valley of Sharon unites itself to
the valley of the Philistines, which latter portion, also ex-
ceedingly rich and fruitful, is that called in Holy Writ the
low country {tlvbtS^H Joshua xi. 16 ; Jer. xxxii. 44 ; xxxiii.
13), and extends southward from Gazza to the river of
Egypt, the already described Wady al Arish, where the
great and fearful desert commences.
The just-mentioned beautiful plains are watered by the
following little streams, most of which I have not yet de*
scribed above, as they are only water-cdlirses in winter,
but dry in summer.
South of Dardura there is the Wady Kuradshe ; farther
south, is the Wady Zirka; south of Caesarea is the Kanah
(Joshua xvii. 0), now Wady al Kazab, already described;
near Ramleh is the Wady Udshi (or the Spring of Green
Waters) ; south of Jaffa is the Wady Rubin, which flows
past the town of Jabneel (Joshua xv. 11), and is called,
farther to the east, Wady Zarar. Southwest of the village
Kefer Ain Karem is the valley of Elah, where David smote
the Philistine Goliath : this is the view of Hieronymus ; but
to me it appears that there can be no doubt of the Wady
Sunt, between Suweiche (the Socho of 1 Samuel xvii. 1)
and Ezakaria, being the n^KH poy the valley of Elah,
since Sunt is the Arabic for the Hebrew Elah, oak. West
of Hebron is the Wady Azarar, which I hold to be the
78 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
valley of Eshkol (Grape Valley), where the spies sent out
by Moses cut a branch of the vine with a bunch of grapes
attached to it (Num. xiii. 23; compare also vnth Midrash
Tanchuma in 1. c), also the valley of Sorek, where Samson
chose himself a wife (Judges svi. 4) ; near Askhelon is the
ffady Asitelon ; near Gazza the Wady Saria, also called
Besor in Scripture (1 Sam. xxx. 10, see above, p. 52);
and lastly, the Wady al Arish, the river of Egypt, anciently
the Rhinocorura, which forms the southern boundary line
of the Holy Land. (Num. xxxiv. 5.)
THE PLAIN OF THE JORDAN. jnTH 133
(Geo. .iii. 10.)
The Arabs call the plain extending from Chinnereth to
the Dead Sea, through which the Jordan takes its course,
Al Gor,* which signifies a plain enclosed between moun-
tains. Thia plain, termed in the Hebrew Scriptures the
Circle of Jordan, constitutes the lowest portion of the
* The passage in Deut. iii. 17, T}h::i7^ o' n3"*i'n d' V' m]3D "From
(JhiiiDercth ctcq unto tliG bc& of the plain, which is the salt sen," ia ren-
dered bj Sandiith "Min Ginsiir ali Bachr al G"r ual Bachr al 5Iit," that
is, from Gencsereth to the sea Al Cror and the Dead Sea. In one edition
I find added "ol Gor ual Ordan," i. e. Al Gor and Jordan. But in Deut.
iv. 49, he renders naij-n d" nj'i with Ali Bachrie liberie, "to tho sea of
Tiberias," which proves that the whole plain of the Jordan, from Chinne-
reth to the Dead Sea, is called Gor or Ankbah, since both these aeas are
callod tho aea of Gor or Arabah. This will explain an obscure passage
in 2 ChruQ. ssvi, 7, "And God helped him against the Philiatines, and
against the Arabians that dwelt in Gur-Baal and the Meanim." We
often find haul ^3 to signify jilain, a fmitfid /and; so that we may
assume that Gnr-Baal here spokun of is nothing else than the present
Al Gor; and indeed there la found at this dnj, in this plain, a village
by name of Maun, possibly the seat of the Me'ntiim of Chronioloa.
[Me'unira ia legitimatelydorived from the singular Ma'un, and the Sheva
takes, as usual, the plaeo of Kametx, because (he word ia increased a
syllable, and tho tone is removed one syllable farther down, whence it is
requisite thai the first, being a changeable vowel, should be shortened, or,
in other words, Ma'un becomes in plural Me-un-im. — Tranblatok.]
THE SEAS, BIVERS, ETC., OP PALESTINE. 79
whole land, and the heat of the sun* is very great here,
because it is enclosed between two ranges of mountains.
Near Beth Shean the plain is 5, and near Jericho 8 miles
in breadth. Through the whole plain there runs a de-
pression about 1000 paces broad, which is the bed of the
Jordan. Properly speaking, does this Al Gor extend to
the Red Sea, at Akaba, the ancient Ezion-Gaber* (Num.
* Through this view we can explain clearly many obscure passages in
Holy Writ. For instance,. Gen, 1. 10 : "And they came to the threshing-
floor Atad, which is beyond Jordan/' Now the question arises. What use
was there for so circuitous a route to the east side of Jordan, when they
could as easily move from Egypt to Hebron, without coming at all in that
direction? — ^Likewise in Num. xxi. 4, it says, "They moved from Mount
Hor, by the way of the Red Sea, to compass the land of Edom." If,
now, they moved northward from Hor, their road lay by no means in the
direction of the Red Sea, unless they made a retrogression, wherefore the
Talmud Rosh Hashanah actually maintains that they made a retrograde
movement. But if our assumption be correct, that formerly the Jordan
flowed onward till it met the Red Sea, so that the whole Araba, the entire
Al Gor to the Arabian Gulf, formed the bed of the river through which
it reached the sea : then can the words ^^D D' pi " the way to the Red
Sea," signify simply the Araba or Gor, equivalent to the bed, the course,
the direction of the Jordan to the Red Sea. So also in Deut. ii. 1, "By
way of the Red Sea;" ibid. 8, "Through the way of the plain" (Arabah).
We therefore explain the passage cited from Num. xxi. 4, thus : They
moved from Mount Hor through the Gor, or Arabah, to go round the
land of Edom ; and not that they returned to the confines of the Gulf of
Arabia. We may also assume that, as the Jordan formerly reached the
Red Sea, there are two "beyond Jordan" spoken of in the Scriptures, to
wit, the northern part, or the course of the river till it reaches the Dead
Sea, and the southern part, to wit, the ancient Jordan from the Dead to
the Red Sea; so that the whole plain situated between both the bays of
the Red Sea, i. e. the eastern Akaba and the western Suez, is called ij;;
p^^n "beyond Jordan," that is, "the east side" of the southern Jordan.
We may therefore assume farther, that the threshing-floor Atad was east
of the ancient bed of the river, between Egypt and Hebron, but not in
the northern portion of it« actual course, in the land afterwards belonging
to the tribes of Reuben and Gad and half the tribe of Menasseh. As
farther proof, the reader is referred to Deut. i. 1 : "These are the words
which Moses spoke unto all Israel on this side of Jordan, in the wilder-
ness, in the plain (Arabah) over against the Red Sea/' &c. If we examine
80 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
xxxHi. 35); since, before the destruction of Sodom and
GoiDnrrah, through which means the Dead Sea was tbrmed,
the Jurtlan flowed into the Red Sea; and to tliis day are
the old bed and former course of the river visible, and can
be easily traced. The Arabs also call the southern por-
tion of this Al Gor, below the Dead to the Red Sea, "Al
Arabah."
This plain of the Jordan, the romantic beauty of which
is truly astwiiishing, is the most agreeable district of all
PiUestine. It is traversed by the Jordan in its whole
length. On both sides of this clear river, the water of
which is very agreeable for drinking, are found the moat
varied trees, the green branches of which are so closely
interwoven with each other, that they form the most
beautiful natural ai'liours, under the agreeable and re-
freshing shadow of which the traveller passes from one to
the other, as though he walked in a pleasure-garden, laid
out so designedly by the hand of man. The ear of the
wanderer is here delighted by the soft rushing of the Jor-
dan, combined with the harmonious song of birds, which
fill the air with natural melodies ; and the eye is ravished
by a view of the banks of the river, brilliant in their green
ornaments, and the beams of the majestic sun, as they
tbo punc^tuatiou of this vente, we shall find that the pause lu^ccDt, the
Kthnach, ie not put under Zsrad, but under Jordnn ; from whit-h it ap-
pcura that, according to the authority of the Massorah, the principal
division of the verse ia at Jordan, not at hratl; so that all the worda fol-
lowing on the latter arc to be taken as those used to define what is meant
by '■ this side of Jordan," »o that "the wilderness, in the plain" (Arabah),
&c., would make it the ancient or mouthem part of the bed of the river.
In verse 5, however, it says, "On this side of' Jordan, in the laud of
Moab." This, therefore, would indicate the northern part, whence the
addition "in the land of Moab" in to show that the previous "beyond
Jordan," or "this side of Jordan," as given in the English version, does
not TvttiT to the land of tbe two and a half tribes. It is therefore but fair
to asaert that the aasumption of Euaebius that the thresh ing-Qoor At^ was
on Jordan, opptmite Jericho, is entirely erroneous, as its position must be
aonght for in the south, near the extinct, not the actual, bed of the river.
THE SEAS, RIVERS, ETC., OF PALESTINE. 81
penetrate the thick foliage ; and even in the autumn, in
the month of September, when I travelled through this
region, I was so charmed with the whole scene that my
heart, full to admiration through the incomparable beauty
of this region, lifted itself up to (jod; and I could have ex-
claimed, overcome by a painful feeling at the loneliness of
the scene : "My Grod! how is my soul bowed down within
me, when I remember thee in this land of Jordan." (Psalm
xlii. 7.) "Is not this whole district of the Jordan abun-
dantly watered, fruitful, and blessed, like a. garden of the
Lord?" (Gen. xiii. 10.) "And still it is scarcely trod by
the foot of the traveller, it is not inhabited, and the Arab
pitches not there his tents, and the shepherds do not cause
the flocks to lie down there." (Isa. xiii. 20.) "Still, thus
speaketh the Lord Zebaoth, There shall yet be in this
place, which is waste, without man and cattle, again a
dwelling for sl^epherds, causing their flocks to lie down."
" In those days shall Judah be redeemed, and Jerusalem
shall be inhabited in security, and this is the name which
it shall be called, The Lord our righteousness." ( Jer. xxxiii.
12-16.)
In concluding this chapter, I wish to explain an ob-
scure passage in Talmud and Mishna. It is said in Rosh
Hashanah, 22 ft, that fire-signals were lighted first on the
Mount of Olives, then on Sartafa, next on Grerufhe, then on
Choran, and next at Beth-Baltin, the latter spot is also called
Biram. Signal fires were also lighted on the mountains of
Charim, Chear, and (Jeder. Some learned men believe that
the latter three were situated between the other moun-
tains; whilst others entertain the more correct opinion
that they were situated in another direction from Pales-
tine to Babylon than the first. In the Tosephta to Rosh
Hashanah, there is also added as follows: "On Mount
Tabor and the mountain of Machvar (see article Jaaser),
likewise, were signal fires lighted."
6
fQ GEOGKAPHT OF PALESTINE.
When one stands, on a clear day, on the Mount of
Olives and looks northward, he can discover the Mounts
of Gerizziin and Ebal not far from Shechem. Near them,
in an eastern direction, appears an indistinct prominent
peak. Upon close inquiry, I ascertained that the Arabs
call this peak Kura Sartiif. i. e. the horn of Sartaf The
situation of this mount ia about 6 English miles west
of Jordan, easlrnortheast from Seilon (Silo), and distant
about 24 English miles frf>m the Mount of Olives. Wliere-
forc I hold this point to be, without doubt, the Sartafa of
the Talmud. Eastward from Jordan, at a distance of
about 15 English miles in the district of Merad, at the
south of Wady Redjeb, which is also called Wady Ad-
shlun, about 3 English miles south of the old castle Kal-
lat al Raba (Ramoth Gilead), there is fomid a small
mountain chain called Arapun, and has near its centre a
prominent peak. Without doidjt this is the. ancient Ge-
rufne, smce the Arabs often put Am for Gum; hence,
Arapun for Garajihun, almost identical with Geruih6. In
the mountain of Hauran (which see) there is a high peak,
called in Arabic, Kelb Hauran, i. e. the heart, the centre
of the mountain, which is the above-mentioned Choran,
Beth-Baltin is beyond Eiiphrates (see article Biram). On
the eastern shore of Lake Chinnereth, are found the ruins
of Geder. East of Kanetra, on the caravan road, over
the Jordan bridge to Damascus, is found the village Tel
Chara, with a mount of the same name. We may find
in this a trace of the Charim of the Talmud. In a
northern direction from this village, about 20 Enghsh
miles south of Damascus, is the mount Djebl Chiara, pro-
bably identical with Chear.
Here, then, we have two lines from Palestine to Ba^
bylon ; the first northeasterly, over Sartaf and Gerufne,
&c.. and the other, the nortliern, over Gcder, Charim, and
Chear.
CHAPTER III.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE DIVISION OP PALESTINE ACCORDING TO
THE TERRITORIES OF THE TWELVE TRIBES, AS GIVEN IN THE
BOOK OF JOSHUA.
Before commenciiig to describe this division, I wish to
elucidate the 31 Kings mentioned in Joshua :idi., and to
determine, at the same time, to which tribe each of the
respective cities belonged.
1- im* Jericho, a city in the portion of Benjamin,
about 20 English miles east-northeast from Jerusalem, 4
English miles west of Jordan, in the valley of the Jordan
or Al Gor. The district between the so-called En Sul-
tan, also En Elisa (2 Kings ii. 22 ; see Jos., Bell. Jud.,
book V. chap, iv.), and the old castle Burdj Chadjla,
about 2 English miles in length, is called by the Arabs
Richa. But there is neither village nor ruin to be met
with, and they know only from tradition that Jericho
should have stood here. Hitherto the just-mentioned
castle was always taken as a remnant of Jericho ; accord-
ing to my more accurate investigation, however, and the
information I was able to collect, which I obtained circum-
stantially and correctly from the sheich of the Arabs of
the neighbourhood, I must deem this view erroneous.* Jeri-
cho is called the City of Palms (Deut. xxxiv. 3, and Judges
iii. 13) ; here was the seat of the Moabite King Eglon,
and heref he was slain by Ehud, as Josephus tells in his
* See farther, article Beth-Choglah.
f Assuming this hypothesis will explain for us clearly the passage of
Judges iii. 28, " And they went down after him, and took the fords of
I
84 GEOGKAI'UT OF PALESTINE.
Antiq., book v. chap. v. The whole country is now occu-
pied by the Arabs, who dwell in tent«, whose tents form
together quite a considerable circle, and have almost the
appearance of a viUage, in the midst of which the cattle
are encamped at night. The adulta are dressed ; but the
children, even those of considerable size, go completely
naked, without the least covering.
2. ')? Ai, namely, that in the vicinity of hit n'3 Beth-
El. We nowhere find among the cities of the 31 Kings
such a definition of Ai, as ia given in Genesis xii. 8, and
xiii. 3 ; whence I am led to suppose that there was yet
another city of the same name. But I wish now to refer
to the Ai of Geuesis ; and we find, in fact, four names for
the place : 1st ♦)? Ai ; then ny Aija (Neh. xi. 31) ; D'li?
Avim (Joshua xviii. 23) ; fuid ;Ty Aiath (Isa. x. 28).
If we now reflect tliat it is not Ukely that one place should
have had four difierent names, we are led to suppose that
there were two places called Ai ; whence the diversity in
writing the name. We cannot ascertain the neighbour-
hood where we should look for the one. But it is said in
Skemrdh JiabUi/t, chap. 32, that between Jericho and Ai
there is but a distance of 3 mill, that is, 2i English miles.
Tliis Ai can, therefore, not possibly be the Ai near Beth-
El, because it is more than 20 mill (15 English miles)
from Richa ; allusion must therefore be made here to the
Ai which was near the present Richa.* About 2 English
Jordna towards Moab, and suffered not a mau to pasa over;" since, if
this event toolc place at Jericho, and the whole vicinity was full of
Moabites, Ehud, hy cutting off their escape over Jordan to their own
Gonntry, naturally must have captured many of them ; whereas, if the
oeonrrcnce had taken place in the country of Moab proper, to the east of
the Dead Sea, the passage in question would not be easy of cxplaoation.
* If we examine the passage cited from Shcmoth Itabbah a little more
closely, we shall find that it refers to a residence of a king, and can,
therefore, refer only to the Ai near Bcth-EI, because it was here where
the king in question dwelt. I suppose, therefore, that there is an error
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 85
miles southeasterly fix)m Beitun (see Beth-El), are found,
near the edge of a valley, some ruins, called by the Arabs
Chirbath Medinat Gai, marking unquestionably the ancient
AL Whence, then, Beth-£1 to the west, and Ai to the east
(Gen. xii. 9). Joshua viii. 11, refers to the valley north of
the ruins of Gai ; for the Israelites lay north of Ai ; the
men in ambush were between Ai and Beth-El, somewhat
to the south ; and the inhabitants of Beth-El, in pursuing
the Israelites in a northern direction, did not perceive
those in ambush who were to the southward.
3. D/B^n* Jerusalem (see farther down, article Jeru-
salem).
4. pian Hebron (see article Hebron).
5. niO*)* Jarmuth. About 7i English miles north-north-
east of Beth-Djibrin (|n31J HO which see), is the village
Yurmuk, probably for Yurmuth.
B. tJ^oS Lachish. 12 English miles we8t«)uthwest of
Beth-Djibrin are the ruins Um Lachish, without doubt the
Lahchish of Scripture. The assertion of Eusebius that it
was 7 mill southeast of Beth-Djibrin, appears to me erro-
neous.
7. p7jy Eglon. 2 English miles east of Um Lachish, are
found the ruins of Adjlun ; no doubt Eglon, the G having
been changed into the Arabic Dj.
8. ^ti Gezer.* 2 English miles east of JaflFa is the little
village Gazur. It would appear, from Joshua xvi. 3, that
of tho transcriber, and that it shonld read " between Beth-El (not Jeri-
cho) and Ai is but 3 mill ;" and in truth there is about this distance be-
tween Beitun (Beth Aven ?) and Chirbath Medinat Gai.
* Tho assertion of the author of Caphtor Vapherach p. 68, that the
village Ganzur, 5 English miles south of En-Gannim (I)jinin), is identical
with Gezer, appears to me unfounded ; since, to judge from Joshua x. 33,
it could not have been far from Lachish, and must have been near the
Hca, in nearly a straight line from Beth-Horon (Joshua xvi. 3) ; it can
therefore not possibly be identical with Ganzur, which is north of Nablus,
the ancient Shechem.
I
96 GEOGRAPHT OK PALESTINE. ■
Gffiter was not far from the sea, which indicates precisely
tbia Gazur {see 1 Mace. vii. 39, 4IJ) ; it therefore belonged
to the tribe of Dan.
9. T3T Debir, also called 130 nnp Kiriath-Seplier
(Jotshua XV. Ifj), or njD finp Kiriath-Saniiah (ibid. 49).
Its site is unknown to me. But there is a valley in the
muiintahis of Hebron, eoutbwest of the town, called by the
Arabs Wady Dibir, which perhaps marks the position of
the ancient Debir.
10. nj Geder. In the Wady Zarr (which see), 2i
JBnglish miles east of the mountain Modiim, 1 found the
ruins of Gadara ; probably those of Geder. It is also not
unlikely that the village Djadr (by changing g in dj), lU
English miles north of Hebron, may be the ancient Geder.
11. noin Chonnah. The actual position of this place
is also uncertain ; still it could not have been far from
Maresha (2 Clu'on. xiv. 9); it belonged to Simeon.
12. Tij? Arad. 22 English miles south of Hebron, and
east of Moladah, is the village Tel Arad, probably on the
site of Anwl.'''
* This is the i-itj mentioned in Num. xsi. 1, and the vow which the
laracliteB made to destroy the towni) belonging thereto, rcfera t-o the time
when they should conquer the Holy Land'; which was actually done under
Joshua. " And they called the name of the place Chormkh," means that
the site of the place obtained that name, and that they built another city
where Arad hud stood, as this was left withnut being built on, and is uot
lo be taken for the residenee of the king of Chonnah, which was the an-
cient Zefath (Judges i. 17), and in the portion of Simeon ; this was near
Miehmash, and far distant from Arad, which was in the portion of Jndah.
The destruction of Arad is not mentioned in Joshua, beeauec it was already
referred to in NumherB, But the overlhrow of Zcfath and a second naming
of the town from ihe act of destroying it (no'^n from dti to devntc), is
another affair, the reason of which has not come down to us; as a proof,
I cile the difference of the wording; in Num. xri. 3, it says, " And he
called the name of the/i^nce," i. c. where the city once stood, hat in Judges
i. 17, " the name of the cil^/," to. ; the newly built town was called nrsTH
Chormab, instead of its predecessor Zofath; it is counted among the cities
J
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 87
13. nj3 7 Libnah, is unknown. Eusebius says only that
it was in the neighbourhood of Beth-Djibrin.
14. D*?iy Adullam, is likewise unknown. Eusebius
merely says that it was 10 mill east from Beth-Djib^i^ ; it
should probably be northeast, since Adullam must have
been near Timnah. (See Gen. xxxviii. 13 ; also 2 Mace.
xii. 38.)
15. TllpD Makkedah is also unknown. Eusebius, how-
ever, places it 8 miles east of Beth-Djibrin.
16. 7N ri*3 Beth-El. I deem it proper to speak a little
more circumstantially about this place, since it is generally
assumed that there were two towns bearing this name ; to
wit, one belonging to the tribe of Benjamin, and situated
in the neighbourhood of Jericho, consequently in the valley
of the Jordan (Joshua xviii. 22) ; the other, however, on
the border between Benjamin and Joseph (ibid. xvi. 1),
on the mountain. This assertion is mainly supported by
the passage (ibid. xvi. 2), " And it went out from Beth-El
to Luz ;" now, accotding to Genesis xxviii. 19, Beth-El and
Luz are identical; the verse must therefore mean here
from Beth-El in the valley to Beth-El on the mountain.
But I maintain on the contrary that this opinion is incor-
rect, and that there was but one Beth-El. It appears from
Genesis xii. 8, Joshua xvi. 1, and 2 Kings ii. 23, that it
was situated in the mountains ; and in the whole Al Gor
there is no trace to be found of a single mount or a chain
of mountains. It must therefore be sought for in the
western mountains, those of Ephraim ; wherefore it is im-
possible to assume that it can have been in the valley of
of Simeon, Joshua xix. 4, also to Judah, ibid. xv. 30 ; but Arad is not
mentioned among the towns of Judah ; it no doubt remained a cS^;; hiy
Td Olam, " a perpetual ruin/' whence then probably the present Arabic
name Tel Arad, as having a trace of this fact, which has perhaps been
handed down traditionally to the present inhabitants of this vicinity, and
been preserved among them to this day.
Sft GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
the Jordan.* In rendering nil/ '^K fl*30 I do not trans-
late '• from Beth-El to Luz," as though the n after nS were
indicating the direction (as riDnXO instead of DHifO? to
Egypt; rtTMi for p[«S to the earth), but "Beth-El
Luzah," making Luzah (i. e. Luz with a feminine termi-
nation), the apposition to Beth-El, or "Beth-El, otherwise
called Luz ;" the meaning of the passage is, then, that the
boundary ran from Beth-El, i. e. Luz to Archi Ataroth.
We moreover find a n at times at the end of a word with-
out denoting the moving to a place ; for example, nn3lD'3
Num. xxxiii. 33 ; niy'S Isaiah x. 30 ; nnS313 Jer. lii. 10 j
nn3Dn3 Judges xiv, 1. In point of fact we can discover
no trace of a Beth-El in the valley of the Jordan ; and the
one mentioned in Joshua xviii. 22, as situated in the por-
tion of Benjamin, is identical with that spoken of (ibid.
xvi. 1) as belonging to Joseph, because it was situated on
* Nevertholesa, I found tt difficult paaeage, namely, 2 Kings ii.2, "And
they went down to Beth-El," wbereaa tliey were fit Gilgal; wherefore it
ought to he "And they went up," wliioli would lead one to look for k
Beth-El in the Tollcy. Nevcrthelesa, I found in Ruth Kabbethi chap. i.
that the Beth-El to which Elijah and Eliiiha repaired, was the uno where
the golden calf was worshipped, consequently the same which was in the
monntainx. We must therefore explain the m-i in this passage "They
went down", aa the phrase D'">nn 4j' 'rm'i (Judges xi. 37), "And I
will go down upon the mountains" (English version, "That I may go up
and down"), but the wordf up and are not in the text; again j'Vsn '<i'\
(1 Saw. xsiii. 25), English version, " He came down into a roek," should
be " he went down to the roek," the rock being evidently the highest
point i aii:3.i rhp (Qen. xxxviii. 13), "Going up to Timnah," whereaa
in Jadges liv. 1, it is nnjrjn \'iVdv t>'1 " Samson went doton to Timnah."
This seeming oonftisios I would thus explain : that all moving from north
to south is termed going down, [rum the fact that in general the northern
portions of Palestine are higher than the southern, which gradually sink
into the level of the desert ; whence then also the moving from south to
north is called going up. (See Abn Eira to Oon. xsiviii. 1.) Probably
Elijah and Elisha were going southward, from the northern portion of
Oilgal to Bcth-El, wherefore the pbraae "going down" is applicable,
ahbougb Beth-El waa on a mountiuu,
J
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 89
the boundary line, and is therefore reckoned as the pro-
perty of both the tribes. A similar method is pursued
with Jerusalem and Kirjath-Jearim (Joshua xv. 63, 68 ;
xviii. 28), both of which are enumerated among the towns
of Judah and Benjamin, because they were on the boundary.
Beth-El is the city where Jeroboam introduced the wor^
ship of the golden calf, whence it was called px n*3 Beth-
Aven, that is, instead of its being originally the house of
God, it became the house of iniquity. It is probable, more-
over, that the present Arabic name Beit-im, is derived from
Beth-Aven. (See for farther particulars Talmud Yerur
shalmi Abodah Zarah, chap. iii. ; Yerushalmi Shabbiith,
chap. ix. ; Bereshith Rabbah, chap, xxxix. ; Targum Jona-
than to Hosea x. 5.) In the mountains about 2 English
miles northeast of Bireh (see nilJO Beeroth), there is the
village of Beit-un, undoubtedly the ancient Beth-El. The
view of the author of Caphtor Vapherach, appears to me
very obscure; for hfe says (fol. 61a.), "South of Silo
Beth-El is found ; the Arabs call it Bitai, leaving out the
7 (1) ." The village Beita is about 5 English miles south
of Nablus (Shechem) ; consequently north, not south of
Shiloh (Seilon, or Silo), and we cannot possibly look for
Beth-El so far to the north.
17. nifln Tapuach, on the boundary between Ephraim
and Menasseh (Joshua xvi. 8). At the present day the
Arabs call the country between Nablus and the Jordan
Balad Tapuach, as probably the town of this name was for-
merly in it.*
18. nsn Chepher, also called nfln Di Gath Chepher (2
Kings xiv. 25). We can deduce from Yerushalmi Shebiith,
chap, vi., that this city was not far from Zippori. Now 2 J
English miles southeast of Safiiri there is the village Med-
jath (from, the Hebrew HJD Miggath, changing g into dj) ;
"^ See farther, when d^ossing the name of Tapuach, which occurs in
the book of Jashar.
90 GEOGllAPUT OF PALESTINE.
and they point out there the grave of Jonah, of Gath Che-
pher. The modem name, therefore, hus a trace in it of its
former appellation, and we may therefore assume that
Chepher (Hepher) formerly stood here.
19- pSm Aphek. We find that there were five towns
of this name: — l,in the portion of Judah (Joshua xv. 53) ;
2, on the bcjundary between Benjamin and Ephraim (1
Sam. iv. 1) ; in the vicinity of the Eben Harezer and Miz-
peh; 3, in the portion of Issachar. in the valley of Jezreel,
where tlie battle between Saul and the Philistines took
place (ibid. xxix. 1) ; 4, in the portion of Asher (Joshua
xlx. 30) ; and 5, in the Lebanon (ibid. xiii. 4).* It is un-
cert^n to which placfe the king of Apliek in question be-
longed; to judge, however, from the succession of the
enumeration, which stretches from south to the north, I
should conclude that it was situated in the valley of Jez-
reel.
20. jnc? Lasliaron. I have already said, in chapter ii.,
that the valley of Sharon is situated on the shore of the
Mediterranean Sea. About midway between Ctesarea and
Jaffa arc found some ruing, which are called Saran, and
are probably the remains of the city here mentioned.
21. jnO Miwlon. 4 English miles north of Safuri (Zip-
pori) is tlie village Manda. I suppose that this is identical
with Madon, as the Arabs frequently transpose the letters.
The author of Caphtor Vapherach remarks (fol, 67) : "The
Arabs likewise are in error, ui calling a place in the vicinity
of Zippori ' Kafar Manda,' as they maintain it to be the
ancient Midian." But it strikes me that the error is merely
* Aphek, where Bcnhadad was defeated {1 Kings xi. 20), appears to
me to have been Bitunted likewise in llie yallcy of Jezreel, ciiiee be was
counselled to iittack Israel in the plaisi and not on tbo mountain. Tbcre
is a village Flk, probably for Aphek, on the east side of Lake Tiberias;
but it does not appear to me tfl be likely that the battle could have
ouuurred there, since this Fik also is situated in the mountains on whieh
Benhadad was advised not to fight.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 91
in the naming of the place, that they pronounced it Midian
instead of Madon, and this confirms me in concluding that
Manda contains a trace of the ancient Madon.
22. •Vlim Hazor (Chazor) was the largest town in north-
em Palestine (Joshua xi. 10). At the present day there
is a village called Azur between Banias and Meshdel, pro-
bably the remains of the old Hazor. In an Arabic version
I found this passage translated " Kong of Caesarea," probably
meaning Caesarea Philippi, which is Dan or Laish (which
see), which is actually near Azur.
23. pKTO ]T\OV Shimron Meron. Among the cities of
Zebulim, we find, in Joshua xix. 15, the name of Shimron.
Yerushalmi Megillah, chap, i., says " Shimron is the pre-
sent Simuni." In our own days there is the village Samuni,
5 English miles northwest of Safuri. The author of Caphtor
Vapherach, fol. 68, says : " South from the mountains of
Gilboa is the town Dir Meruan, one of those belonging to
the thirty-one kings." But there is a great distance be-
tween Samuni and Dir Meruan ; still it is possible that the
same king ruled over both places.
24. fjB^3K Achshaph, in the portion of Asher, which see.
25. *|JJ^n Thaanach. ) In the portions of the sons of
26. nJO Megiddo. J Joseph (which see).
27. Kedesh, in the mountains of Naphtali (Joshua xix.
37, XX. 7), is doubtlessly the modem village Kedes, 15
English iniles north of Zafed.
28. Sd^dS DJ^Jp^ Jokneam of Carmel. In the valley
near Akko, near the Carmel, is d valley called Wady
Naman, which has some slight resemblance to the ancient
Jokneam. Eusebius says, " 6 miles north of Megiddo
is the city of Kamun," similar to Kanum ; perhaps, then,
this may be the Jokneam near Carmel.
29- nn nSjS nn Dor Lenaphath Dor. On the Medi-
terranean Sea, 10 English iniles north of Caesarea, is
the village Dandura (see in the tribe of Menasseh); 2t
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
English miles southeast of this is the village Naphata, pro-
hably the just-raentioned nQj7, the 7 being a preposition.
Napiiaih does therefore appear to be a proper name, not to
be translated with coast, as in the English version.
30. SjiSj"? D'lJI fioyim Legilgal. 19 English miles north-
east of Jaffa is the large village Dshilil, probably an incor-
rect manner of writing Dshildshil, which is Gilgal by the
usual transmutations, aud belonged therefore to Dan. In
an Arabic version I found this passage rendered with " the
king of Al Acheab" (see Chezib) ; perhaps it ia based upon
some tradition that Gilgal and Chezib arc identical. As
respects the word Goyim, we find it appended to several
other names, as Charosheth Haggoyim (D*1Jn ntl'in),
Judges iv. 2, not far from Chazor. So also Gelil Haggo-
yim (Isa. viii. 23), English version Galilee of the Gentiles,
not far from Jordan.
31. nVin Thirzab, in the portion of the sons of Joseph
(which see).
THE POSSESSIONS OF THE TRIBES IN GEKERAL,
The southern portion of Palestine was assigned to Judali.
Near this, to the north, was Benjamin. In the possession
of Judah, in the southwestern part, was that of Simeon.
North of this was Dan, the territory of which extended as
far as Dor (Dandum), on the shore of the sea, and formed,
as it were, the wall of separation, wliich separated the por-
tion of Benja:min, Ephraim, and Menassch from the sea.
Towards the north of Benjamin were the lands of Ephraim
and Mcnasseh, which extended to the valley of Jezreol.
This valley, and a part of the mountains of Southern or
Lower Galilee, belonged to Iseachar. Zebulun's portion
was on the coast of Chinnereth, and extended towards tlie
Mediterranean, to the south of Carmcl. North of Zcbulun
was Naphtali, in an eastern direction, whereas Asher was
on the west, on the shore of the Mediterranean, towards
Zidon.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 93
juDAH. mm'
(JoshUA XT.)
The southem boundary of Judah I have already de-
scribed, when giving the southem boundary of Palestine,
with which it is identical. I wish, therefore, to make
mention of s few places there omitted. It says in Joshua
XV. 3, " And passed along to Hezron, and went up to Adar,
and fetched a compass to Karkaa;" whereas in Num. xxxiv.
4, Hazar-Adar is given as one place, which appears here
as two, Hezron and Adar. We find, moreover, in the
southem part of Judah, several towns bearing the name of
Chazar (Hazar), or Chazor, e.g. Chazor Chadattha, Chezron
which is Chazor, Chazar Gaddah, Chazar Shual, and Chazar
Susah ; which leads me to suppose that we must ascribe
this to the fact of its being the country of the Avim
(Deut. ii. 23), who dwelt in open towns Chazerim, as
far as Gazza. (Probably, therefore, that Adar was also
one of these, or a Chazar of the Avim, hence Chazar- Adar ;
and Chezron was a city of the same.)
The Septuagint renders Chazar-Adar (in Num. xxxiv.
4) with Arad, and Adar in Joshua with Sanada, which I
conceive to be an error, since Arad Tiy was too far north
to be the southem boundary of Judah and Palestine.
It, therefore, appears that the site of Hezron, Adar, and
Karkaa, must have been between Wady Gaian (Kadesh-
Bamea) and Wady Kisaimi (Azmon) ; but at the present
day not a trace of these names is to be found, except the
two, Gaian and ICisaimi, which enabled us to determine
the probable situation of Kadesh-Bamea and Azmon.
The eastern and western boundaries of Judah are well
defined, to wit, the Dead Sea on the east, and the Medi-
terranean on the west ; wherefore, I have merely to trace
the northern boundary. It says, verse 6, " And the bor-
der went up to Beth-Choglah, and passed along by the
94 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
north of Beth-Arabah,* and the border went up to the
stone of Bohan the son of Reuben."
Beth-Choglah was already explained when treating of
Jericho. About 4 English miles north of the Dead Sea, is
an old castle Burdj Chadjla; the similarity of names lets us
suppose that Beth-Choglah must have been formerly in this
vicinity. Hieronymua, however, fiays : " Beth-Choglah
is 3 miles from Jericho, and 2 miles from Jordan," which
would place this castle too far northwest, and consequently
could not then he Beth-Choglah ; but on the spot indicated
by Ilieronymua there is no trace of a town to be found.
Bcth-Arabah is unknown ; hut it must have been north-
west of the preceding.
Ebcn {stone of) Bohan Ben (son of) Reuben. The
situation of this spot is on the mountain whlcli runs west
from the valley of Jordan, where I found, in the direction
of Jericho, several uncommonly large rocks, of wliich
some are well calculated to mark a boundary ; but I
could discover no trace to indicate the identical stone here
mentioned.
Verse 7. " And the border went up towards Debir from
the valley of Achor, and so northward, looking towards
Gilgal, that is, before the going up to Aduinmun, which ia
* Since, however, Betb-Arabali and Beth-Cboglab are both reckoned aa
belonging to Benjamin (JoHhiia xviii. 21, 22), this psssage appears verj
obBcurc ; for here il appears that the bouudarj ran north of Beth-Arabah,
wherefore it munt belong to Judah and not to Benjamin, But I think
that it may be thns esplained : " And it run from tlie north to Betb-
Arabah," i. c. after the line has ran from the west northward, it takes the
direction of Beth-Arabah, sinee originally the line runs from Jordan
westward to Beth-Chogluh, wbeneo it runs north to Bcth-Arabab, where-
fore it remains beyond the boundary line, and belongs to the tribe of
Benjamin; all to the south being part of Judah. This would require os to
render iiain " from the north," aa njiax or pas'! " to the north," or
"northward ;" which use of s is oocasionallj met with, as Dipa " east-
ward" (Gen. xiii. 12).
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 96
on the south side of the river (should be Hhe valley'),
and the border passed towards the waters of En-Shemesh,
and the goings out thereof were at En-Rogel."
The valley of Achor is also mentioned in a previous
part of Joshua (vii. 24) ; it extends, accordingly, through
the mountains to the valley of the Jordan, opposite Jericho.
On the jQOimtains I found a large place, called by the
Arabs, Tugrit al Dibr, and at a distance of about 1 Eng-
lish mile to the northwest, I saw a very high rocky hill,
composed of nothing but pyrites, which they call Tell
Adum. I cannot doubt but that the first is the ancient
Debir, and the latter the " Height (the going up E. V.) of
Adummim," or the Red Hill. This Tell is about 6 Eng-
lish miles east-northeast from Jerusalem. To the east of
the same, I found several ruins, to wit, Akbath, Beth-
Djabr, Chirbath-Gatun, which I cannot identify.
East of Azarie (see Azal) there is found in the valley,
which the Arabs call Wady Chot, a handsome large spring,
the Ein al Chot, which I take to be the spring of Athe run
(En Shemesh).
En-Rogel, Gay ben Hinnom, the Valley of Rephaim,
En-Neptoach, will be more particularly described under
article Jerusalem.
Verse 9. " And went out to the cities of Mount Ephron,
and the border was drawn to Baalah, which is Kirjath-
Jearim."
Northwest of Jerusalem there is a plain about 2 Eng-
lish miles in. extent. At its termination there is a deep
valley, called Wady Zarr, also Wady Beth Chanin ; the
village Lifta lies in the declivity of this valley, which
nms first west, then a little southward, then a little north-
ward,^and again west, and continues thus with a southern
tendency, till it reaches the sea near Aker or Ekron. West-
southwest of Jerusalem, at a distance of about 5 English
miles, is another small valley, which at length unites with
96
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
I
the Wady Zarr, Between these two valleys is a high
plain, which, in compaiison with these deep valleys, may
be regarded an a mountain, and I conceive this plain to
be the Mount Ephron. It is now over this point that the
boundary ran, passed through the Wady Zarr, and then
somewhat to the north to Baalah or Kirjath-Jearim,
Verse 10. '• And the border compassed from Baalah
westward unto Mount 8eir, and passed along unto the
aide of Mount Jearim, which is Chesalon on the north
side, and went down to Beth Shemeah, and passed on to
Timnah."
The following are some remarkable names which I die-
covered in this direction. 4 J English miles west-south-
west of Jerusalem, in the mountain, there is a small village
called Ein Karem, which is undoubtedly the town of
Karem mentioned in the Septuagint translation to Joshua
XV. 61.
One EngUrth mile northwest of this point, in the
neighbourhood of the village Kustel, situated on the
summit of a mount, I found a ruin called Chirbath Izpa.
West of Zaba (wliich see) I found a ruin, called Chirbath
Gadran ; near to this are the ruins of an old tower, an
elegant palace, and other buildings. At the foot of this
tower, is a large and beautiful spring, by name of Ein-
Abifl. About half a mile west of these ruins, on the decli-
vity of a moimt, I found the ruin Chirhath-Djeba; and
2i English miles west of tliis, I saw an isolated mount,
at the foot of which there is a ruin which the Arabs call
Midan. It appears to me perfectly clear that this must
be the Mount Modiim, which the Talmud Pesaehim, fol.
93, alleges to be distant from Jerusalem 15 mill, or Hi
English miles, which is actually the distance from Midan to
the holy city. On the summit of this mount, one can
see the Mediterranean to the south of Jabne and Ashdod.
(See 1 Mace. xiii. 29.)
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 97
South of the Wady Zarr there are found Izfa, Chars, Ein
Abis, Chirbath-Iiuz, the Mount Midan, and the other just-
mentioned ruins, wherefore all these belonged to the por-
tion of Judah.
Nprth of the Wady Zarr are found Zoba, Kustel, Beth-
Ula, Beth-Tiksa, Beth-Chanine, and Nebi Smuel (impro-
perly taken for Bamah, or Ramataim Zofim) ; all of which
belonged to the tribe of Benjamin : it is therefore apparent
that the Wady Zarr must have formed the boundary be-
tween Judah and Benjamin.
About 7i English miles west-northwest of Jerusalem is
the village Kiryfe, also called Abu Gosh, because it is the
seat of the celebrated sheich, or rather the captain of high-
wajonen^ of that name, and is undoubtedly the ancient IQr-
jath-JearinL About 2 J English miles west of this there
is on the summit of a high mount the village Saris, which
was destroyed in the year 5594 (1834), by Ibrahim Pacha,
and forms the highest point between Jerusalem and Ramla.
It is also mentioned by the Septuagint in the passage cited,
as the correct reading should be Saris. South of this vil-
lage, at the distance of about 1 English mile, is the village
Earzi or Saide ; 2i English miles south of this there is the
already mentioned Mount Midan, between the valley which
leads to Kirye Abu Gosh, and that whidi leads from Zaara
(whiqh see) to the village Saris. I take this to be the
Mount Jear^m spoken of in Joshua xv. 10, and that the
l^d between the two valleys was called Jearim, whence
then Kiijath (the city of) Jearim, and Har (mount of)
Jearim. I also suppose that a trace of Seir may be dis-
covered in Saris, and hence the Mount Seir (ibid.) to b^
identical with Saris, and therefore not to be confounded
with Mount Seir to the east of the Dead Sea.
Two and a half English miles west of Zoba there runs a
little valley as far as Kirye Abu Gosh, and unites in the
opposite direction with the Wady Zarr. There is likewise
H ana
I
98 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
another valley extending southward from Saria to the
vicinity of Zaara. I therefore suppose that the boundarj-
line between Judah and Benjamin ran from the Wady Zarr
into the little valley which extends to Kirye Abu Gosh,
from there to Saris, and then southward to Mount Midan
and Kislon ; again it entered the Wady Zarr, to Beth-
Shemesh, which is the modem village Eiu Sems, about 2i
English miles west of Mount Midan; west of Ein Sems,
about 1 English mile from there, stood tlie village Tibna,
no doubt Tiinnah ; 7i English miles northwest of this stood
the village Akar, which is Ekron, and lies northeast of the
Wady Zarr, it apjiears therefore that the boundary line
left the Wady and ran on towards Akar.
Verse II." And the Iwrder went out to the side of Ekron
northward ; and the border was drawn to Shicron, and
passed along to Mount Baalah, and went out unto Jabneel,
and the goings out of the border were at the sea."
Two and a half English miles northwest of Akar is the
village Jcbniel, unquestionably the former Jabneel. also
called Jabne (2 Chron. xxvi. 6, and Mishnah Rosh
Ha.shauah vi. 8). The European Christians, under the
government of Fulgo, King of Jerusalem, built not far
from this a city, which they called Hil>elim, of which R.
Benjamin of Tudela speaks when be says rrJD' N'H D'S^y
Eblim which is Jabue.
The sites of Shicron and Mount Baalah are therefore to
he sought l)etween Jebniel and Akar; hut I could discover
no trace of them.
Jebniel is situated properly speaking in the Wady Zarr,
but the Arabs call it there no more by that name, but they
designate it as Wady Rubin, and it extends thence with a
permanent water-course to the sea. The boundary therefore
ran fhjm Jebniel through the Wady. somewhat northerly,
ending at the Mediterranean.
Josephus {Ant., txwk v. chap, i.) says, " To Judah be-
longed the northern part of Judea up to Jerusalem."
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 99
THE TOWNS IN THE PORTION OP JTJDAH.
The territory of Judah is generally divided in four
parts ; 1, the South ; 2, the Lowlands ; 3, the Mountains ;
and 4, the Desert. (Compare Joshua x. 40 ; xv. in various
parts.)
THE TOWNS OP THE SOUTHERN PABT.
Kabzeel Sxy^p Joshua xv. 21 ; Neh. xi. 25 ; its situa-
tion is entirely unknown.
Eder •ny, perhaps there may be here supposed a trans-
position of the letter T and T D and R, whence we should
have Arad, (see Num. xxxii. 38), although this would
overthrow my idea as given above under Chormah and
Arad.
Jagur TlJ*;. the situation of this place is uncertain.
(See Tosephtah, end of Ahaloth, where, according to the
reading of Rabbi Shamson the B^''^, it says, " The borders
of Ashkelon extend from the great grave to Jagur," &c.)
The supposition that this is the village Dshura situated
between Migdol (Meshdal) and Ashkelon, is proved erro-
neous^ because of its being in the Lowlands, whilst Jagur
is reckoned among the towns of, the South.
Kinah i^yp ; probably Cinah, a town situated near the
wilderness of Zin p^^
Kedesh tJ^lp; this is Kadesh-Bamea, in the Wady
Bierin. (See above in the Boundaries of Palestine.)
Ithnan pn* ; Hieronymus says that is in the neighbour-
hood of Beth Djibrin, in the direction of Hebron, 6 mill
from the former ; at the present time there is on the spot
indicated the village Ithna; but this would place this
town in the Mountains and not in the South.
Ziph ^♦t- 5 English miles north of Mount Madura
(which see), is the narrow valley Nukab al Zapha, which
I
I
I
^ Zepl
^1 mua
^M from
■ CUoi
100 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
uame is probably derived from tbe town of Ziph, which
once stood bere.
Telem dSd- This town was situated south of Madura,
wherefore this district is called to this day Tulain. I am
induced to believe that m this vicinity there was yet an-
other city of the same name, whence *'and he numbered
them in Telaim," D'nSd with a plural termination (1 Sara.
XV, 4), indicating two places called Telem; and hence then,
also, the modem appellation of the whole district, Tulam,
or the space between the two towns. In Midrash Kohe-
letb to cbap. v. 10, there is mentioned a Menachem Tal-
mia, wlio was probably a native of Telem.
Bealoth rnVy3j is probably tbe Kubit al Ba-ul, situated
7i English miles southeast of Telem, and northwest of
Zapba.
Moladah ni/IO, is the modern village Muladab, 3 Eng-
lish miles southeast of Arad,
Chazar-Gaddah mj ISn- According to Hierouymue,
this town was situated in the southern part, near tbe Dead
Sea. Perhaps he meant En-Gedi (which see).
Beer-Sheba y2J^ lN3j is 30 English miles southwest of
Hebron (Cbebron), aud is now cidled Bir-Siha,
Ezem DV^j is probably identical with Azmon (which
fiee) .
Kesil S*D3, is the same place which is represented aa
belonging to the mountainous part of Simeon, under the
name of Betbuel (1 Chron. iv. 30), and in the conquests of
David (which see) as Beth-El, in 1 Sam. xsx. 27,
Chomiah noiri- I have already said, when speaking
of tbe 31 Kings, that Chormah is identical with the previous
Zepbath of Judges i. 17, and that there is the valley of
Zepbatha near Mareshah (2 Chron. xiv. 9). Chormah
must therefore have stood in this neighbourhood, not far
from Bcth-Djibrin. The only difficulty in the cose is that
Chormah is reckoned as belonging to the South, whereas
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 101
Mareshah was reckoned among the cities of the Lowlands.
It is possible, however, that the valley of Zephatha alone
extended to Mareshah, whilst the town of Zephath, i. e.
Chormah, was actually in the South district. At present
I could find no trace of the same.
Ziklag Jl7pV, is also not fully ascertained; this much,
however, is known, that it was north of the stream Besor
(Wady Sheria), which flows 2i English miles south of
Gazza, and it must, consequently, have stood not far from
the Mediterranean, and probably between the Wadys
Sheria and Simsum.
Madmannah njdlO, is probably the Levitical city Mah-
dah, in which, according to the book of Jashar, end of
Joshua, Simeon was buried. According to Eusebius, it is
called Minos, and lies opposite to Gazza.
Sansannah njDJD? is probably the village of Simsum
(as the Arabs often exchange the i n, with O m), which
is situated on the river Simsum, which runs 5 English
miles northeast of Gazza, and falls by Ashkelon into the
sea. I admit that, according to our assumption, all the
three last-mentioned towns would belong to the Lowland,
and not to the South of Judah ; but the boundary lines
are so little known with certainty, that it is possible that
the vicinity of Gazza may have actually belonged to the
South, and not to the Lowland, or the H/aJB^.
THE LOWLAND, OR THE VALLEY,
Commences to the southwest of Kirjath-Jearim, and
west of the Mount Modiim, and extends to the Mediter-
ranean, and southwardly to the south of Gazza. If one
stands on one of the mountains west of Jerusalem, -and
east of the village En-Karem, he has the whole of the
Lowland, with the sea, before his view. The towns of this
division are :
Zorah and Eshtaol SKflB^NI n^lV. Two and a half
102 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
English miles west of the Mount Modiim is, even at the
present day, the village Zareah; and 2i west of this is
the village Stual, no doubt Eshtaol.
Zanoach niJT- Onf^ English mile southeast from Zarea
is the village Zamea, no doubt the former Zanoaeh.
En-Gamiim D'JJ VJ7, is certainly identical with tlie vil-
lage Dshiuin, 3 English miles soutlieast of Ashkelon. A
town of the same name was in the territory of Issachar,
Tappuach mSn, is probably the village Beth-Tapa, 5
English miles northwest of Beth-Djibrin. A town of
the same name was also on the boundary hue between
Ephraim and Menasseh.
Enam DJ'^i i** probably the village Beth-Ani, distant
2i English miles from Saafir (which see). Some think
that this is the place spoken of as Enajim, in the history
of Tamar (Gen. xxxviii. 14).
Jarmuth rnoi*- See explanation of the 31 Kings,
AduUam 071^. Ibidem.
Socho 1D1C, is without doubt the village Suweich6,
situated 5 English miles north-northeast from Beth-Oji-
brin.
Azekah rtpiy-. Three English miles east of the valley
Saphia is the village Tell Ezakaria, which is probably the
ancient Azekah, which was not far from Socho. (Com. 1
Sam, xvii. 1.)
Shaaraim D'li'E', is not clearly known ; but to judge
from 1 Ssmi, xvii. 52, it must have been in the neighbour-
hood of Ekron and Gath.* It is probably identical with
the Ir-Tarain of the Tosephtah, end of Ahalotli. as the
Chald. Tarain is the same with the Hebrew Shaaraim,
gates.
Adithaim D'nnj?, is probably the village Eddis, 5 Eng-
* In the 1 Mace. v. 66, there is meiitioned a place Sliomrin, which
should be Shaaraim, as it cleiirly refers to a city in the land of the Philis-
tines, near Aehilod.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE, 103
lish miles east of Gazza. Hieronymus also says that it
was situated near Gazza.
Gederah and Gederothaim D*n*nj miJ, formed but
one town, and was, as Strabo and Joseph us tell us, between
Ashdod and Ashkelon, and is probably the same with Beth-
Gader mentioned in 1 Chron. ii. 51. Some suppose it to
have been the seat of the 31 Kings (Joshua xii. 13).
Zenan pv, is the same with Zaanan of Micah i. 11, and
is probably the village Zan-Abra, situated 2i English
miles southeast of Mareshah.
Chadashah HB^in (compare with Erubin, fol. 46), is,
according to the opinion of some, the town called in 1
Mace. vii. 40, and Josephus, Adasa, which, however, ap-
pears erroneous to me, since the latter lay near Beth-
Choron, consequently not in the territory of Judah, but of
Benjamin. I am rather led to think that it is the village
Dshora di al Chadas, between Migdal and Ashkelon (see
above, Jagur), which, though but a village, I fancy bears
traces of the two towns Jagur and Chadashah; as in
general the inhabitants of Palestine allow themselves
transpositions, abbreviations, and additions in the names
of the towns. At the distance of one mile from this place,
in the vicinity of the sea, lies
MigdaWJad IJ Sl30 at present called Midjdal (Migdal) .
Dilean and Mizpeh naVD ji^Sn There is, 7 English
miles northwest of Beth-Djibrin, on a small mount, the
village Tell Zaphi, which is probable a compound of the
two names in question. According to Hieronymus, Mizpeh
was north of Beth-Djibrin, which also coincides with Tell
Zaphi.
Lachish &^y7. See the description of the 31 Kings.
Eglon pbjy. ^ See ibidem. ^
Gederoth n^mj is probably the same with the ruins of
Gadara, situated northwest of Jerusalem at the edge of
the valley Zarr, which alsQ appears to be the correct view
I
104 GEOGRAI-UY OF PALESTINE,
from Chron. xxviii. 18, where tliis place is mentioned in
connexion with Betli-Sliemesh, Ajnloii, Socho, and Tim-
nah, which all were situated in Wady Zarr. (Compare
Joshua xii. 13.) Geder is probably the same place,
Beth-Dagou pjl n'3 must not l)e mistaken for a town
of the same name between Ramlali and Jaffa. Eusebius
reports that between Janmia (Jabne) and Diospolia (Lod),
there were in his time the ruins of tlie villa^'o Dagon ; but
at present not a vestige of them can \k found.
Makedah nipO, See the description of the 31 Kings.
Libnah njS?. Ibidem.
Ashan jcy; also called Kor-Ashan in 1 Sam. sxs. 30.
Eusebiua states Asan to be 15 mill west of Jerusalem ;
but it is now unknown.
Nezib 3»W; 2i English miles east of Both-Djibrin is
found as yet the village Beth-Niizib.
Keilah nS'^^p was, according to Eusebius, 8 mill firom
B. Djibrin, on the road to Hebron; but it is not to be
found at present.
Achzib 3'T3K was at the time of Eusebius yet a village,
north of Adullam, and is the same place called Chezib in
Gen. xxxviii. 5. It is now unknown.
Mareshah ntJ'NIO ; the ruins of this town, called Muraaa
by the Aral>s, are yet discoverable 1 English mile south
of B. Djibrin.*
When speaking of the land of the Philistines, I will
treat of Ekron, Ashdod, and Gazza.
THE TOWNS IN TlIE MOUNTAINS
Lie in the so-called Mountains of Judah, of which we
have treated above. The height of this chain is indeed
* R. Benjamiu of Tudda Bays, that Maresha 19 B, Gubrin (Djibrin) ;
but this is not so, aa it is merely in ils vicinity, Astciri, the antlior of
Caphtor Vspheracb, fol. CO a, asserts that Mareabiih is near to Kefar
Diehrin, north of Lud (Diiispolia) ; hut this too is erroneous, fnr thia would
place Maresh&h iu the mouutaiua of Ephraim, in Bcujamin's portion.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 105
not very perceptible to the south of Hebron on the road
from Jerusalem by which it is ascended ; but the more
precipitous are its gorges and deep valleys towards the
south, east, and west. The highest points of this moun-
tain are met with in the peaks which surround the valley
of Hebron, and which have an elevation of 2664 feet above
the level of the sea. The towns in the mountain district
are :
Jattir 'VtV is probably to be discovered in the village
Yather, 15 English miles south of Hebron, and 5 north of
Moladah.
Socho ^ilBf is at present called Suweich6, and is 3 Eng-
lish miles north of Yather, and 5 west of Maon.
Kirjath-Sannah njD H^Hp or Debir. See the 31 Kings.
Enab ^ijf is the village Anab, 1 English mile northeast
of Suweich6. It is in all likelihood the same place men-
tioned in Joshua xi. 21.
Eshtemoh noriB^N, formerly a Levitical city, now pro-
bably the village Samua, 2i English miles east of Su-
weich6, and is also perhaps identical with the town of
Esthomonia in Peraea, built by Herod. (Compare with
Josep. Antiq., book xv. 11.)
Anim Q^ijf is the village Ben-Enim, 2 English miles
east-northeast of Hebron.
Giloh iV7} is doubtlessly the large village Beth-Djalah,
1 English mile west of Bethlehem ; the G, as usual with
the Arabs, being changed into Dj, thus Galah, Djalah.
Arab y^i is the village Al Arab, situated on a moim-
tain, 4 English miles southeast of Hebron.
Dumah non was, according to HJeronymus, in the
neighbourhood of Eleutheropolis. It is possibly identical
with the village Beth-Dimi, which is situated on the sea-
shore, near Migdal. This, however, would place it in the
Lowland instead of the Mountain.
Beth-Tappuach mSH HO is the small village Tappuach,
106
GEOGKAPHY (IF PALESTINE.
2 Euglisli railfs west of Hebron, but is not to be confounded
with the town of the same name on the Ixjundary between
Ephraim and Menasseh.
Aphekah npStt the village Abik, 4 English miles east-
northeast of Yurmuk {Jtvrmiith).
Zior ly*^ ia the village Sior or Zier, 2i English miles
northeast of Hebron ; near it ia pointed out the grave of
Esau, who is called by the Arabs Sid Yiisseph, i. e. Prince
Joseph. According to Targum Jonathan to Genesis xlix.,
Esau was buried not far from Hebron.
Maon pyo the village Maun, 5 English miles south of
Hebron.
Carmcl SiDID ia the village Al Kirmil, situated 2 Eng-
lish miles north-northwest of Maun on a small mount; it
has an excellent water-course, called Birkat al Kirmil, in
the vicinity of which is a small fort, whence the Dead Sea
can be seen. (I take the Carmel mentioned in 1 Sam.
XV. 12 to he this place, and not the Mount Carmel.)
Ziph Jl'T, the village Ziff, 2 English miles northeast of
Al Kirmil, and 2 English miles southeast of Hebron. Ac-
cording to Josephus, it belonged to the land of the Kenites.
Jutah nDV> probably the village Yata, 2i English
miles south of Hebron, and 3 English miles northwest of
Al Kirmil.
Zanoach niJf, probably the large village Samua, 3 Eng-
lish miles southwest of Maun. It is situated on a hill; it
has a small fort, also the ruins of a Catholic convent.
There are also at this place wells, regularly walled m, and
fruitful gardens, which arc well irrigated. Some, however,
suppose Samua to be identical with Eshtemoh, which see,
Timnah njon was, according to Eueebius, 10 mill east
of Ek'ufheropolis, and situated on a mount. There was a
town of the same name in tlie low land near Ekron. See
also Soti, fol. 10 h, where it says that there are two towns
called Timnah.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 107
Chalchul 7in7n is the village of this name, situated on
a mount, and 5 English miles north-northeast of Hebron.
The grave of the prophet Gad is pointed out here.
Beth-Zur yvn n*3- This town and fort, celebrated at
the time of the Maccabees, was the residence of several
Israelites, even after the destruction of the second temple
(see historical part, year 4543) ; but at present there is so
little known of it, that it cost me some trouble to ascertain
its situation. The assertion of 2 Mace. xi. 5, that Beth-
Zur lies between mountains^ 5 mill from Jerusalem, ap-
pears to me to be an error of the translator, and should
be 15 mill. I heard the Bedouins call certain ruins, ap-
parently those of an ancient fortress, which are situated
on a mount west of Chalchul, on the road to Hebron,
where an excellent spring bubbles forth from the rocky
mountain walls, Chirbatli Beth-Zur (Ruins of Beth-Zur) ;
and, in fact, this point is exactly 15 mil6s from Jerusalem,
wherefore the tradition which places .the ancient Beth-
Zur here seems to be well supported.
Gedor yni- According to Eusebius, it was the Gadarah
in the valley of Elah, in the vicinity of Beth-Zur, north-
west of Hebron. It is at present unknown.
Maarath myo is the village Magr,* west of Ekron. It
is perhaps also identical with the Maroth (abbreviated) in
Micah i. 12.
Kirjath-Baal 7^3 H^'yp} i- e- Kirjath-Jearim, wliich see.
The Septuagint adds yet the following names of places,
which are not found in the Bible text ; and although they
have properly no bibKcal value, we will enumerate them,
because some of them have been retained even to this day.
Tekoa. See article Tekoa.
Ephratha, or Beth-Lehem, which see.
* Both Maarah and Magr signify cave.
»
108 GEOGRAPnr of Palestine.
Phagor is no doubt the modern village Beth-Phagar,
southeast of Bethlehem.
Etam, which see. Tatam and Thobcs I do not know.
Saris I have mentioned ah^ady, and is situated west of
Kirjath-Jearim.
Karcm is the village Ein Karem, already described.
Galem is unknown to me. It cannot be Beth-Gallim,
for this is not in the territory of Judab, but near Jaifa;
nor can it be the modern Beth Djallah (see GUah), be-
cause that is already mentioned in the text.
Koulon, perhaps Kolonia (see Moza) ; but this belonged
to Benjamin, not Judah.
Bether* ia a village yet existing, 7 English miles south-
west of Jerusalem. It must not be confounded with the
celebrated city of this name, famous in history after the
destruction of Jerusalem. (See Gittin, fol. 55 b, and To-
sephoth Yom Tob, end of Challah.)
Manochoh is jjcrhaps the town of Mechonah mentioned
in Nehemiah xi. 28, which was at the time of Hieronymus
a village between Jerusalem and EleutheropoUs (Beth-
Gubrin orD]ibriu),or itmay be intended for Malcha (which
see),
THR TOWNS IN TOE DE8EST.
Under this name are understood all the towns of that
desert which commences on the western shore of the Dead
Sea, and extends up to Zin. This district is brietiy called
"the Desert;" whilst those situated in the " South" of Judah
are but small, and take their names from the towns nearest
to them; for example, the Desert of Maon (1 Sam. xsiii.
24) ; the Desert of Ziph (ibid. xxvi. 12) ; the Desert of Je-
ruel {2Chron. xx. 10), &c.
Beth-Arabah ri31J?n flO- See above, p. 94.
Ir-Hammelach (the City of Salt, nbon Tj?). See Zoar.
En-Gedi nj pj?- Almost due east from Hebron, but a
* My copy has Thttair. — Tranbi.atoB.
A^
a.iw^^o wxi^vuu Limt iiiis su>oa over tne grave ot the be-
Pailiikfti btAHirt Pkila^ilvkia
TOE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 109
«
little to the south, and at a distance of 12 English miles,
hard upon the shore of the Dead Sea, is a spot which the
Arabs call En-Djedi, unquestionably the ancient En-Gedi,
which was also called Hazezon Thamar ^on JWn (2
Chron. xx. 2). Two English miles north of this spot there
is a valley or Wady, which the Arabs call Wady al Huza-
zan, which I conceive to be so named from the ancient
Hazezon (Thamar).
The other cities of Judah mentioned elsewhere are —
Elone Mamre mOD ♦JiSn (Gen. xiv. 13). North of
Chebron, and sideward from Chalchul, is a plain about 2 J
English miles in length, which the Arabs call Elouj no
doubt the ancient dwelling-place of Abraham in question.
Gerar "llj (ibid. xx. 1). This town, which was still in
existence in the time of Hieronymus, was situated, as he
reports, 25 mill south of Eleutheropolis (Beth Djibrin) ;
consequently between Beersheba and Gazza, for which
reason the environs of Beersheba were called in the time
of the Romans "the District of Gerar." In the Tal-
mudic writings this district is termed Gerarki. (See Yeru-
shalmi ShebiitH, chap. vi. ; and Bereshith Kabbah, chap.
Ixiv.) At present, however, no trace whatever vof this
town can be discovered.
Ephrath n^QK> which is also called Beth-Lechem,
(Gen. XXXV. 19), is even at the present day a large vil-
lage, 3 English miles south of Jerusalem.
The Grave of Rachel Sm miDp. 4 English miles
south-southwest of Jerusalem, about 1 English mile north-
west of Beth-Lehem, on the road from the former to He-
bron, is found this ancient and famous monument ; it is a
small, low, square chapel, with a cupola, which is some-
what pointed. In the middle of the same, running east
and west, is a monument, composed of several large stones,
about 7 feet in length, 4 broad, and 5 in height. It was
always believed that this stood over the grave of the be-
I
110 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
loved wife of Jacob. But about twenty-five years ago,
when the structure needed some repairs, they were com-
pelled to dig down at the foot of this monument ; and
it was then fouud that it was not erected over tlie cavity
in which the grave of Rachel actually is ; but at a little
distance from the monument there was discovered an un-
commonly deep cavern, the opening and direction of which
was not precisely under the superstructure in question.
In the year 6601 (1841), Sir Moses Montefiore, of London,
caused the same to be entirely renovated, furnished it witli
a cupola, and an entrance hall> so that at present it is
quite a handsome building. I think it advisable to speak
somewhat more at large about this monument, since we
find in the Scriptures several passages which almost seem
to place it in another position than where it is. Let us
first investigate the measure of distance employed in Gen.
xxvi. 16, "Kibrath Eretz" l*"iN m3D between the grave
and Betb-Lehem, so that thereby we may be able to ascei^
tain the true position. The Arabic version of Saadiah has
mill, a mile ; the Persian translation gives it with Fersh,
i. e. the length of a field, an acre ; Ben Seruk explains
m3D a*! derived from 1»33 " a great length ;" Kashi alleges
it to be a Parsah, or :i English miles ; Nachmanides (Ram-
ban) expounds it as derived from ID Bar, '• a very little,
insignificant," as 13 '13 in Prov. xxxi. 2 ; and in point of
fact the latter explanation does appear as the most correct,
since the distance from the monument to Beth-Lehem is
quite small, scarcely an English mile, and wherefore also
we may take for granted that the building actually marks
the grave of Rachel. Still there is one passage which
oflera us some difficulty ; I refer to 1 Sam. x, 2. where
Samuel tells Saul, " When thou departest this day from
me, thou wilt meet two men near the grave of Rachel, on
the boundary of Benjamin in Zelzach." This then places
the sepulchre on the border of Benjamin ; and still we do
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. Ill
not find this line to be within 4 English miles north
thereof. I would ask farther, sinoe^ Saul travelled at the
time from Eamah (Ramathaim Zophim), to his home
Gibeath Saul (Kirjath-Jearim), and as Beth-Lehem and
the monument are near 10 English miles southeast of
Gibeah, and consequently entirely out of his way : how
should he happen to meet the two men at the grave of
Rachel on his return journey ? In Bereshith Rabbah to
Section Vajdshlach, the difficulty of the grave of Rachel
being on the boundary of Benjamin, is indeed touched
upon, and explained in two difierent ways ; the solution
is nevertheless obscure and unsatisfactory. But in Mid-
rash Samuel to the passage cited, there is a more correct
elucidation, as follows : " When thou departest (already)
this day from me, thou wilt meet (to-morrow) at the
boundary of Benjamin, at Zelzach, two men, (who will
quit to-morrow) the grave of Rachel ;" that is to say, he was
going one way and they were coming from another direc-
tion, and would thus meet on the boundary line.* If Saul
and the pilgrims had both commenced their journey at
the same time, it would have been impossible for them to
meet at Zelzach, because the distance from there to Ramah
is far greater than to the grave of Rachel ; but it was pro-
bable that they should so meet if Saul set out on the day
he was speaking with Samuel, and the others set out only
the day following. From all this, it appears that not the
grave of Rachel but Zelzach must be sought for on the
border of Benjamin; whence, therefore, the three words
7m miDp DJ^ " by the grave of Rachel," must be taken
as an explanation, giving the whereabout of the two men
at the time Samuel was speaking, of whom it is said
* See also farther art. Zelzach, which is said to be, according to the
same Midrash, no other than Jerusalem ; and I suppose that a trace of
the name may be found in that of the village TseUna.
112 GEOGRAPQT OF PALESTINE.
nvSv3 I'a'J3 SlDJD D'trJK 'JC' ntCi'Dl " And thou shalt
fmd these men at the border of Bciijamin at Zelzach."
There is also a difficult luissage in 8itH to Dent, xsxiii.
3, where it saja that Rachel died in the land of her son
(Benjamin), and still her grave is in the land of Judah.
But I would explain this, that the Sifri neither said nor
meant that her grave is in Benjamin's jx)rtio!i, but that
she died M'hilst Jacob was on his journey from Beth-El U)
Bethlehem, consequently whilst- traveraing the territory of
Benjamin, and perhaps they were still in it wlien Rachel
was taken dangerously ill, and being near death, she might
be considered dead already before they reached the land
of Judah. The explanation of Nachmauides U) Geneflis
xlviii. 7, " that she did not die on the journey, but in
Ramah, a city of Benjamin, and that she was buried there,"
is extremely surprising. It appears that this very learned
man wrote this before he lived in the Holy Land, and
before he had the opportunity of convincing himself of the
actual condition of the things, and the locality of the
various places in question, {8ee alwo Mechiltha , chap, i.)
Upon the whole, it is my conviction that the moimmont
marks correctly the grave of Rachel, although others
have without sufficient reason placed the sepulchre in an-
other spot.
Migdal-Eiler -ny SlJO (Gen. xsxv. 21), was situated,
according to a well-known tradition, 2i English miles
southwest of Beth-Lehem, on a hill near the aqueduct
from the spring Etam (2 Chron. xi. 6). See article En-
Etam.
lu the conquests of David (1 Sam. xxx.), are mentioned
Beth-El, Aroer, the cities of the Kenites, and Athach.
Beth-EV*" Sn no (1 Sam. xxx. 27), also called Kesil
* In Ecbah RabLnthi to chap. i. 16, there is spoken of a Bcth-El in
Judnh, nbicli mcaiiB that there was jet tmother, I prcaumo tlio Beth-
El in tbo land of tbe Philiatinea.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 118
(Joshua XV. 30), and Bethul (1 Chron. iv. 30), was situated
17 English miles southwest of Eleutheropolis ; and to this
day there are discoverable in this position, on a high hill,
some ruins of a fort, which, as I learned from records, are
called Bethulia. Near these ruins is the village Kesi
(Kesil). It appears, therefore, that this Bethulia and
Kesi are the Beth-El, Bethul, and Kesil of Samuel.
Aroer ^jny (ibid. v. 28), probably the modenj village
Arar, situated 2i English miles south of Moladah.
The cities of the Kenites ♦ipn H^. In the Greek
translation of the Septuagint, there are added to these cities
Zaphet, probably Zephath or Chormah of Joshua xv. 30 ;
next Karmilos, i. e. Karmel near Ziph ;* but Haleis is un-
known to me.
Athach nny (ibid. v. 30). There is at this day a valley
called Athacha, north of Moimt Madura. Without doubt
the town of Athach must have been situated there.
Geshurites, Gezrites mj mtTJ (1 Sam. xxvii. 8). The
first name is discoverable in the modem village Adshur,
which is situated 1 English mile from Dir-Dibon, on the
road leading to Migdal. The latter name is to be met
with in that of the village Beth-Djirsi, which lies near the
Wady Simsum.
The hill Chachilah nS^Dnn H^DJ (ibid, xxiii. 19).
Two and a half English miles west of Hebron, on the road
to Beth-Djibrin, is the village Beth-Chachal, which has
derived its name, in all probability, from this hill.
Adoraim DnilN (2 Chron. xi. 9), is at present a village
called Dura, situated 4 English miles west of Hebron. It
is the seat of the sheich of the district Abd Rachman^
whose territory extends to Egypt.
Etam DD^J^ (ibid. xi. 6), is at present a little fort, called
* This is in accordance with Josephus, who represents Ziph as a towB
situated in the land of the Kenites.
8
GEOGEAPUY OF PALESTINE.
Al Burak, and distant 2 k English miles south of the grave of
Rachel. For more particulars, see farther, in art. En Ktam.
Tekoa J^lpri (ibid.) Five English miles south of Beth-
Lehera, there are still some ruins called Thakua. Two
and a half miles northeast of this place there is a sepa-
rately situated mount, called Djebl Fridis, also, the Franks'
Mouut,* because the Franks, L e. the European Chrietians,
maintained themselves for some time in a fort which once
stood on this mouut, after they had been driven out of
Jerusalem and other cities of Palestine by the rulers of
Bg)'pt. This Herod's Mount, as Josephus calls it, has the
shape of a long apple, and the nuns of the ancient fortifi-
cation are still visible on its Hummit. Some are of opinion
that this mount is the Beth-Hakkerem (the vineyard-
house), which is mentioned in connexion with Tekoa, in
Jer. vi. 1, since to this day there are visible terraces suit^
able for the cultivation of the vine. Perhaps Solomon
alludes to this mount in his Song i; 14, when referring to
his vineyard at Eu-Gedi ; since they are not far apart.
Northwest from this mount is the cave Al Mama, GO feet
long and 6 high ; and I suppose that this it was which
Saul entered, when pursuing David in the desert of En-
Gedi (1 Sam. xxiv. 4). West from the ruins of Thakuah
are found many caverns in the depths of the mountains;
* AUfaough it is not my purpose to dincuss and censnre erroneoiis and
false viens of the leorned of modem and the tal«Bt timcR, I ncvertlicleES
cannot avoid culling tho reador's attention to a gross mistake made in
Hcvcral modern Ilebrcw dcBcriptions of Palestine, in respect to tho name
of Lliis mount. I do this merely to prove thut all those works are but-
topics of ancient writings, which, however, were not correctly understood.
Now the modem learned men call this "Franks' Mount ■K'fln in "The
Mount of Frccilom" (Esod. xii. 2), becaiiae they understood the name of
Franks to signify the idea of freedom, franco; whereas the reul meaning
in " tho mount of the Franks," or tho strangers who came from Frankland
(France), wherefore they ought to have translated it KplK'^-j Oj! "^n or
fCpjUTU I'lN "33 VI,
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 115
they are called Al Kreitun (LabjriBth), and served the
inhabitants of Tekoa as places of refiige when they had
to fly before the pursuing Arabic hordes, in the year 4898
(1138).*
Raphiach R^fl^. Onkelos paraphrases Deut. ii. 23,
" And the Avites who dwell in open places ( Ghazerim)
unto Gazza," with, '' in Raphiach unto Gazza." To this day
are some ruins on the shore of the Mediterranean between
Gazza and the village Al Arish, which are called Kapha ;
another proof that the Avites had extended their settle-
ments up to that place, and in the southern portion of
Palestine. (See Hezron.)
Bor-Hassirah nTDH ^13 " the fenced in pit" (2 Sam.
iii. 26), was, according to Josephus, called Besera, and was
20 riss (2 J English miles) distant from Hebron. Perhaps
we may discover a trace of the name in the modem Siar
(see Zior), since it is precisely that distance from Hebron.
Lechi ♦nS (Judges xv. 9). Josephus reports that this
place was called by the Greeks Siaron (identical with the
* This town belonged to the portion of Judah, afi appears distinctly
firtxm the passage citisd (2 Chron. xi. 6). The more surprising, therefore,
appears the opinion of the celebrated David Kimchi to 2 Sam. xiv. 2^ and
Amo0 vii. 10, that it belonged to Asher. This hypothesis is based, how-
ever, on a misunderstanding of a passage in Talmud Menachoth, fol. 85 6,
which says that Tekoa produ^^ed the best oil ; and whereas the land of
Asher produced much oil, so that it was said (Deut. xxxiii. 24), "He
(Asher) dips his foot in oil," this learned commentator concluded that
Tekoa must have belonged to Asher. But Te'koa, ^as will appear from
Mishna, Menachofh chap. viii. § 3, furnished merely thi? finest oil, but by
no means in great abundance. But the place where it was produced in
such uncommonly large quantities was Gush-Chalab dSh B^IJ, as is told as
an historical fact in the above-cited passage from Talmud Menachoth,
fol. 85 ; and this town actually belonged to Asher, as we read in Judges
i. 31 : "Asher did not drive out the inhabitants of Achlab," i. e. those of
the present Gush-Chalab. The error of Kimchi now arises from his mis-
taking Tekoa for Gush-Chalab, and placing the first in Asher, which is
wrong.
116
GEOGEAPUr OF PALESTINE.
Hebrew Lechi "jawbone"). Since, however, there was a
spring formerly near Eleiitheropolia, called Siaron, it provea
to a certainty that Lechi was near Beth-Djibrin (Eleuthe-
ropolis) .
Shapbir Tgc (Micha i. 2), no doubt the village Suaphir
as yet existing, situated 5 English miles southeast from
Ashdod ; and is perhaps identical with the Kefar Sejiburia
of Yerushalmi Kiddushin, chap, iii., and the Beth-Sliii-
phrin of Vayikra Rabhah, chap. xxii.
Charsha KtC^n (Ezra ii. 52), probal)ly identical with
the rulna, called by the Arabs Charsha, situated south of
Wady Zarr, and at some distance from the ruins of Gadar.
Barkos Dlp")3 (ibid. 53), the modern village Barkusia.
6 English miles northwest of Beth-Djibrin,
Jeshua yia'' (Nehem. xi. 26), the village Yesue, near
the village Chulda, situated to the east of Ekron, at a dis-
tance of about 5 English miles. Here commences the so-
called Lowland or plain, on tliifl side.
Dibon pan (ibid. 25). the village Dir-Dibon, 5 English
miles north of Beth-Djibrin.
Ir-Nachash cnj TJ? (1 Chron. iv. 12), the \-iIlage Dir-
Nachas, 1 mile cast of Beth-Djibrin.
Rechah nat (ibid.), the village Rashia, 3 English miles
south of Hebi-oii,
Zobcbah n335f (ibid. 8), the village Beth Zaphapba, 2i
English milcH south of Jerusalem.
I will now mention the following places, noticed in the
Talmudtc writings as belonging to the tribe of Judah:
Beth-Gubrin* T'"I31J n'3. This formerly very large
and celebrated free city, called in the times of the Greeks
and Romans Eleutheropolis, from Eleutheros " free," and
• Litflrallj " the cUy of tlie migLty," because in its vicinity lived for-
merly very strong oiid gigantic men. Jonsitlian tronnlHtea Hebron
(Gen. XJtiii. 2) with tn^ut :\-y " the city of heroea."
DIVISIONS or PALESTINE. 117
poUs " a city,"* is situated 1 7 English miles west-north-
west of Hebron, and has remarkable buildings and ruins,
together with a very large and wide subterranean cave,
in which there are several Christian chapels, which date
firom the time when Christian princes bore rule in Pales-
tine. In the year 4557 (797), the city was destroyed by
the Saracens, and it is at present but a large village,
called Beth-Djibrin. This city has been almost constantly
in the hands of non-Israelites, wherefore it could hardly
be regarded as Jewish property ; which circumstance will
explain the meaning of Bereshith Rabbah, chap. 61, which
comments, " And of the dew of heaven from above (Gen.
xxvii. 39), means Beth-Gubrin," by which blessing this
city was assigned by the patriarch Isaac to his son Esau.
(See ibid. chap. 60 ; Shir Hashirim Rabbah, fol. 2 a ; Ko-
heleth Rabbah, fol. 102 ft; Bereshith Rabbethi, chap. 10.)
Barur Chayil 7»n "IIID ; this is the manner in which the
name is given in Sanhedrin, fol. 32 a, and Tosephtah
Maaseroth, beginning of chap. 2 ; but in Megillah 18 a,
it is given as Tfl *113J Gibbor Chayil, and in Yerushalmi
Demai, beginning of chap. 3, as tH ♦Ss Blee Chayil, which,
however, appears to be a mistake of the transcriber. I
presume to discover in this name some historical allusion.
Josephus relates in his Jewish War that the Emperor Ves-
pasian sent a colony composed of the dismissed and meri-
torious veterans of his army to Emaus, 60 stadia (7i
English miles) from Jerusalem. I now consider that
Barur Clmyil refers " to the chosen men from the army,"
selected to occupy it, and that we find for the same reason
Oibbor Chayil " the heroes of the army," and that it is the
same with the town of Emaus. South of Saris (which
see), about 7 J English miles from Jerusalem, are met with
some ruins, which the Arabs call Baburaia, probably cor-
* Compare with Bereshith Rabbah, chap. 42, which says, " And the
Chori (Gen. xiv. 6), is Elitheropolis."
I
I
■ Ba
118 GEOGKAPHY OF PAUISTINE.
rupted from Barureia, i. e. Barur Chityil, and that it
marks the site of the military colony of Vespasian as
given by Josepbus.
Amus or Emius, DTXDN DIHD'^, formerly Nicopolis,
" the City of Victory," ia now the village Ameius, near
which is a good spring. It is 7J English miles east of
Ekron, and south of Kabab. It is, however, not to be
taken for the town just mentioned; as there were two
places of similar names.
Beth-Deli '"^l n'2 mentioned at the end of Yebamoth,
is the village Beth-Dulia, or corrupted into Beth-Ulia, 74
English miles from Hebron, on the road to Jafl'a.
Beth-Garem D^J n*D (Erubrin 19rt, and perhaps the
'OlJn of 1 Chron. iv. 19). One and a half day's journey
east from Gazza was. according to Astori, the author of
Caphtor Vapherach, the village Mansnl Garem ; but it is
now unknown.
Malchaya N'n7D of Vayikra, Rabbab 20, is the village
Malcba, 4 English miles westrsouthwest from Jerusalem ;
it has an excellent Kpring, the water of which is light and
whole.soine. Here are also found a large quantity of roses.
Abus D1DS4 *1DD of Yerushalmi Sanhedrin, chap, ii., is,
according to my opinion, the same with Abis, mentioned
in Josephus, Bell. Jud. i-iii. 5, and which be places in
Upper Judea; it was probably near the riun.s of Gadar in
the Wady Zarr. To this circumstance it is no doubt
owing that the spring found there is called " the Spring of
Abis." (See also above in the northern boundary of Judah.)
Imra KlO'Jt ^M of Yerushalmi Thanith, chap, iv,, is
the village Beth-Imra, 2 iS English miles south-southwest
of Hebron. >
Aryeh HHK 1Q3 of Yerushalmi Kelayim, chap, i., is,
according f« ancient records, a village near Eleutheropolis.
Barkah Np13 "13D of Talmud Cheritoth (end) was, ac-
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 119
cording to Eusebius, not far from Ashdod, but is at present
unknown.
Darum Cm ^33 of Sota 20 ft, was the village Darum,
5 English miles southeast from Gazza, as reported by As-
tori ; it is at present unknown.
Shachra M^piB^ ^SD of Tosephtah, end Yebamoth, is pro-
bably the village Beth-Sachur, 2 J English miles northeast
from Bethlehem, in the district of Tekoa. It may, per-
haps, be the same as Ashchur, comp. 1 Chron. ii. 24,
" Ashehur, the father of Tekoa." Jos. Bell. Jud. i. 1, calls it
Beth-Zacharias.
Anim DOJ^ 133 of Pesiktah Kabbah 23, is, perhaps, the
above-mentioned mountain town of Joshua xv. 50, at pre-
sent the village called Ben-Enim. It is also, perhaps, the
same with On% mentioned in Tosephtah Ahaloth 16.
Th^martha min*3B^ Kmon nSD of Tosephtah Chulin,
13, is the village Beth-Thamra, 2 J English miles south-
east of Bethlehem. (See Bereshith Kabbah 6 ; Pesiktah
Rabbethi 15.)
Etam DD^J^ *l£)D of Yebamoth, end of chap, xii., for
which see article En-Etam.
PLAGES MENTIONED IN THE BOOKS OF THE MACCABEES.
Kedron jnip? 1 book, xv. 39 ; xvi. 9, 3 English miles
west of Ekron, now the large village called Kadrun. It
is remarkable that several learned men in their geographi-
cal descriptions of Palestine, have alleged, that despite of
laborious investigation, they had not been able to find
this place, and that there must have occurred a mistake
in the transcriber by putting Kedron instead of Gedar.
But it is undoubted, and easily capable of demonstration,
that the author of the books of the Maccabees meant no
other ^lace than the present Kadrun, situated in the vici-
nity of the land of the Philistines.
Chamma MDDKn? 1 book iii. 40, is the village Chama-
IZU GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
meh, 2i English miles south of Migdal, nnd is situated in
the Lowland, as is stated in the book cited.
TOWNS IS THE LAND OF THE PmLISTINBS.
All the places designated in Joshua xiii. 2, 3, as the
chief towns of the Philistines, are still known at present.
Geahur llt'J now Adflhur {see alxtve, article Geshuri).
Gazza my is a large town, 20 English miles from He-
bron, and ia di-stant but 1 English mile from the Mediter-
ranean. The inhabitants of this place, with the exceptlou
of a few Christians, are altogether Maliomedans. Up to
the year 5o71 (1811), there were found here also Jewish
inhabitants, who bad a handsome Synagogue, and a large
burying-place, where are buried Rabbi Israel Negara, the
celebrated poet, bis father, and bis son Moses. When
the conqueror Napoleon passed through Gazza with his
army in his expedition from Egypt to Palestine in the
year 5559 (1799), the Jews were put in great straits,
and many fled away ; and tliey constantly diminished in
number till the small i*emuant at length removed, in 5571
(1811), to Jerusalem and Ilebion. The Synagogue be-
came ruinous in consequence, and Ibrahim Pasha took of
its stones to build a fort at Ashkelon.
Asbdod mL^N is at present a large village inhabited
by Arabs, and called Sdud ; it is sontli-southwost from
Jabne, distant 5 Engliali miles, and but 2 h Englisli miles
from the Mediterranean.
Ashkelon p7pi?N. This, formerly called the Greek city,
is at present but a small v-illage, inhabited by Arabs and
Christians, and bears the name of Eskelon ; it is 7 i Eng-
lish miles south of Ashdod on the shore of the Mediter-
ranean. When Ibrahim Pasha was in Palestine he com-
menced building a tower and fort, employing the large
and remarkable stones brought from the Synagogue of
Gazza; but the buildings were left incomplete.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 121
Gath nJ. The situation of this place is not so well
ascertained as thpse previously mentioned; the usual
assumption that it is the town of Kamleh, situated in
the territory of Dan, I hold to be quite erroneous;
since it appears, from 1 Samuel xxx., that it must have
been situated far to the south and west of this place.
I therefore prefer the statement of Eusebius as far more
correct, in placing Gath 5 mill from Eleutheropolis, side-
ward from Lod. At this day, also, there is found a vil-
lage by the name of Gatha, 3 English miles south of
Jaffik, and on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea ; which
is, without doubt, the remains of the ancient city of the
Philistines.
Ekron j'npj^, see above, Akar, in the description of the
north boundary of Judah.*
* We read in Megilla fol. 6 a, " Rabbi Eliezer said, The prophet said
(Zeph. ii. 4), And Ekron shall be rooted up ; this refers to Kisri, the
citj of Edom, which was situated on the sands, and was a fixed nail (i. e.
a dangerous place) for Israel in the Greek period. When now the kings
of the Asmonean family conquered it, that day was called the day of the
conquest of the tower of Shir." In another place it is called " the tower
of Shid," and again " the tower of Zur." The poet, in the Yotzer of the 2d
Sabbath Hannuckah, calls it " the tower of Nassy."* But it is by no means
the opinion of Rabbi Eliezer, that Ekron and Csesarea are identical ; for
Ekron belonged to Judah, and' Csesarea was at a great distance from it and
belonged to Dan. But he explains the words of the prophet Zcphaniah,
* This will explain an obscure passage in Talmud Chfigigah, fol. 4 6, which reads
thus: K^B^J kSiJID D"^D, ^ later editions it is even vCVf} '^J?B^. Yarchi, as well
as other commentators, explain this, " Miriam, who plaited the hair of the women,"
Megadelah thus meaning <*to plait,*' Nathi, <* women ;'* and in order to render it
more explicit still, the later addition was made of Searf ** the hair." But there
can be no doubt that the real sense of i^^iy^ xSlJO (read ** Migdalah Nahsi,") is
the name of the aboye-mentioned town Kisri, or Cassarea, which was called
Migdal Nahsi; hence this Miriam who was of Csesarea, obtained the surname
*' Miriam of Migdalah Nahsi." In order, however, to explain the sense farther,
there arosA te improper change in the passage in question ; it was made to read
Miriam B|||iABlah Dardeki (the educator of children), to show that Megadelah
should not ^e taken for a proper name. In old and more correct editions, how-
ever, I found the addition of *' Meehamemath Tannura" instead of the above.
I
I
122 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTmE.
Avin O'li?- Although the name of the Avites is at
preBeiit entirely unknown in Palestine, there is, neverthe-
less, no doubt that they once lived in the southern portion
of the land of the Philistines, and had an extent of coun-
try reaching to the neighbourhood of Kadesh-Barnca.
(See Raphiiich and Chezron.)
Gibthon pn3J (1 Kings xv. 27) Gibthonof the Philis-
tines. This was a IjCvitical city, belonging to the trilio of
Dan (see Joshua xxi. 23, and xix. 44). In the latter
passage it is described as between Elthckah and Baalatli ;
it must therefore have stood between Bailin, which I take
for Baalath, and Eithini, which I suppose to be Elthekah.
At present I cannot find a vestige of it in that neighlwur-
hood.*
'■ Ekron shall be rooted up," as baviog beeo fulfilled in Caisorca Fulea-
liiuD, wliich wii8, indeicd, UDCommonly lurge, and always dongorous to
larecl, II was olao called SlratoDis Tower. Astori wiahea to prove
from the pa;»*uge cil^d thitt Kkron in CeeKorea, but hia esplau&tion is too
forced and unsatisfactory.
* In Shir Hashirim Rabbethi to chap, i., v. 16, it Bays, that from Gib-
thon to Antipatris was a large multitude of towns, the smallest of which
was Bcth-Shcmcsh. In Saahedrin 94 is add "from Gebeth to Anti-
patris ;" in other places it reads "Geba ;" but both these variations refer
to (libthon. (In Bcrcshith RuLbah, chap. Izi., there is "from Aklco to
Antipatris;" probably, however, an error of the trau^criber.) In Yvba-
moth, fol. 62, it is also said that Rabbi Akiba had 12,000 scholars be-
tween QibthoQ and Antipatris. It does not appear to me that reference
is here made to the well-known Antipatris, the present Kefar Sabs (Zaba,
* which see), for its situation to Gibthon nas not such a^ to indicate two
opposite piiints of a boundary line. I found, however, in Midraab
Mishle to ch. ix. 2, that the corpse of Rabbi .\kiba, who was slain as a
martyr in Ctesarea, was carried to Antipatris belonging to Kouim for in-
terment. UnqueslJonably must the reading " Koirim" be erroneous, and
should be Kaiarah, which was in Galilee, close by Maon (which see);
and to this day they point out the sepulchre of Rabbi Akiba between
Tiberias and the ruins of Bcth-jMaon. From all this we ms)' deduce that
there wm an Antipatris in Galilee, near Tiberias, and that this is the spot
of which the pRBsagW cit«d speak ; and thus Gibthon and Antipatris pro-
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 123
SIMEON. pjrOBT
The boundaries of the territory of Simeon are, it is true,
not laid down in the Scriptures ; for his portion was con-
tained in the midst of that of the sons of Judah (Joshua
xiv. 1 ) ; but as the towns which fell to this tribe are desig-
nated, the boundaries can thereby be ascertained, and this
gives us the following result :
Towards the east this territory extended as far as Mo-
ladah; thence the boundary ran southwesterly to the
Wady Eliseimi, i. e. Azmon or Ezem ; thence it ran north
to the Wady Sheria (the stream Besor), near Ziklag, for
this belonged to Simeon, and lay on the northern part of
this Wady ; it extended then farther north to the Wady
Simsum, on the northern edge of which is the village of
the same name, which I suppose to be the ancient San-
sannah, and reached as far as Baahath Beer, which is the
modem village Beilin, situated 1 English mile north of
Barkusia, — (in 1 Chron. iv. 32, it is called Baal). Hiero-
nymus says, " Be^r wa^ 8 mill from Eleutheropolis," which
suits exactly for Beilin ; but this town itself, forming as it
did the most northern point of the territory of Simeon,
belonged to the tribe of Dan. Towards the south there
were Beersheba, Moladah, Chazar-Shual, &c. In the Low-
land were Attar, Ashan, Chazar-Susah, &c. But the dis-
trict, however, which lay between this and the Mediter-
ranean, remained the property of the tribe of Judah.
(Judges ii. 18.)*
Having already described the greater part of the towns
perly denote two extremes of a boundary line, namely, Gibthon at the
southwest, and Antipatris at the northeast, although I have not been able
to discover a vestige of this place, nor the origin of its name. Perhaps
it may hav^^ been derived from Antipater, the father of Herod.
'*' In Ecbb Babbethi to ch. ii. 2, is mentioned a mountain of Simeon,
which proves that this tribe must have possessed likewise a part of the
mountains belonging to Judah.
124 GEOGRAPUY OF PALESTINE.
of Simeon wlieii treating of the territory of Judah, we
have to notice only the following :
Beth-Hammerkaboth and Chazar-Susah maDlon ri*3
nOlD li'm (Joshua xLx. 5), are probably identical with
the Ko-ciilled "chariot cities" of 2 Chron. i. 14 j and these
were Marhnannali and Sanaannali, mentioned in the terri-
tory of Judah.
Ajin and Rimraon pQi pj? (ibid. xis. 7). The Soptua-
gint translates theae names with Thalche, which was a
village at the time of Hieronymns. called Thalia, about
1 5 mill from Eleutheropolia, but is at present unknown.
Etani OQ"}^ (1 Chron. iv. 32 ; Judges xv. 8). There is
a village 2i English miles north of Beth-E)jibrin, called
Gutna, as much as Utna, corrupted, perhaps, from Utma,
and this from Etara. Josephus (Ant., book v. chap, i.),
says, to Simeon belonged a part of Judjea, which bordered
on Arabia and Egypt.
The boundary of Benjamin is clearly laid down in Joshua
xviii. 11-21. The northern line of Judah will answer
to determine that of Benjamin with regard to it; and there
is only this addition, that the line ran from Beth-El Lnz
to Atharoth-Adar, that is, the village Adara. 1 English
mile south of Biri, then not far from Beth-Horon (Choron),
to KIrjath-Jearim. In reading this passage of the Bible,
there is an apparent contradiction. Kirjath-Jearim is de-
scribed as the most western point of this .territory (v. 14),
and still it is said (v. 15) that the boundary extended still
farther to the west (flD')- To reconcile this, our learned
men have alleged that they understand this word (HD*)
not as usual, "westward," but to "the sea;" but this is
evidently not a correct view of the question, because in
the whole circumjacent country of Kirjath-Jearim there
is neither sea nor lake to be found (see Yarchi). Another
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 125
difficulty presents itself in this manner : If it has repre-
sented, in V. 14, that Beth-Horon and Kirjath-Jearim
formed the two tenninating points of the western boun-
dary of Benjamin, how does it happen that the towns of
Nob, Chadid, Lod, and Ono, in the valley of Charashim,
which lie 15 to 18 English miles west of Kirjath-Jearim,
belonged to this tribe? (See Neh. xi. 31, and 1 Chron.
viii. 12, to which the Chaldea Paraphrast adds IKHVT
jO'JDT KDDB^ " Which the children captured and bunit
with fire when they made war at Gibeali with the tribe
of Benjamin." See Megillah 4 a, and compare with Joshua
viii. 26, and Neh. vi. 2.) The correct explanation of both
the verses quoted (Joshua xviii. 14, 15), however, is as
follows : In verse 14 it is not intended to define absolutely
the western boundary, but only so far as the same ran in
a direct line from north to south, and this is from Beth-
Horon to Kirjath-Jearim. This was indeed the utmost
boundary to the south, but the line did not immediately
turn eastward, but went still farther westward no% and
embraced the neighbourhood of Ono and Lod, &c. ; and
only from this extreme west did it bend again eastward
to the spring of the w^aters of Nephtoach. This exposition
will remove all the difficulties noticed.
THE OITIES OF BENJAMIN
Are for the most part still known. Of those mentioned
in Joshua xviii. 21-28, we will notice the following :
Emek-Keziz Y^)ST) pOJ^ was a town probably situated in
the valley Achor. (Compare with 1 Mace. ix. 62 and 64,
where mention is made of .Beth-Keziz. This correct read-
ing, however, is only found in the Latin version ; other
copies read Beth-Batzin.)
Zemaraim DHOX- There are found at present in the
f 126 GKOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
plain of the Jordau, 4 miles from the river, ajid north of
Jericho, some ruius, called Chirbath al Zamra.
Ojjhrah niDy- Tbia town waa situated, according to
SEusebius, 5 mill east of Btth-El, but is at present quite
unknown. It may probably have Ijcen in the vicinity of
the modern village Taibi (which see).
Parah mS lay in the valley which extende in an ea.stem
direction to the southeast of llamah, wherefore it i» still
called the Wady Pharah.
Kfphar Ammoni 'JIOJ? 133 is no longer known. In 1
Mace. ix. 50, it is said '• He (Bacehides) built the walls of
Jericho, Ammonai, Beth-Cboran, Beth-El, and Piirah" no
doubt including the two last-mentioned town.s.
Ophui 'JBJ*. Probably the modern village Djiphni
(Giplmi, and this by corruption for 'Ophni), which is
situated 2 English miles noirth of the rums of Beit-un
(Beth-El). This town is probably the Gufnith of Beni.
choth 44 a; tUe Qii/iia of Talmud Yerushalmi Taanith,
chap. iv. ; and the Betlt-Oufnin of the Tosephtah of end of
Ahaloth.
Gibeon pj?3J, probably the village Djib (Gib), situated
on a high rocky ridge, 6 English miles from Jerusalem, and 1
English mile north-northeast from Mizpeh. In the vicinity
of this village is a lake, called by the Arabs Birkat Malchi,
and which is already mentioned in Jer. xli. 12, " the great
waters that are in Gibeon." ' (In Josep. Ant. B. viii. eh. 2,
is mentioned that Solomon sacrificed at Hebron, evidently
an error, and should be Gibeon ; see 1 Kings iii. 5, where
this is distinctly stated to have been the place of sacrifice.)
Ramah noi is at present called Rahm, and lies on the
road from Jerusalem to Shechem, on a anialt round moim-
tain northeast of Mizpeh.
Bceroth nilN3, now called Birya, is 24 English miles
nortb of Rahm, and is a large village.
Mizpeh nflVO lay in a northern direction, opposite to
1
xfJLi£i|A;>iA f lUX^ ^^J m c* iiv^iUlACiAl UllCUtiUil^ UUIJiiOilA; \AJ
Itanio »cbi Smuel.orMUpeh.
PttUi.heJ tj A Kart, PtiUi«lphi«
i
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 127
Jerusalem, on the top of a high mount, from which there
is an extended view ; whence its name Mizpeh, from nSV
to overlook. This town, not to be mistaken for Mizpeh-
Gilead, as Kimchi has done, was the place where the
prophet Samuel often assembled the people (1 Sam. vii.
5; X. 17). At present it is called Rama Nebi Samuel.
(See farther, article Rajna, — Ramathaim Zofim.) In 1
Mace. iii. 46 we read: " They then assembled together
and went to Mizpeh, opposite to Jerusalem, for in Mizpeh
was formerly a place of prayer ;" perhaps referring to the
custom of assembling the people, thence "gathering-place,"
as Synagogue in Greek means nothing but meeting-place
in its original signification. Two and a half English miles
northeast of Mizpeh is a village called Bir-Nabala (i. e.
the pit of wickedness), in which there is a great pit, which
I believe is the one in which the wicked Ishmael, son of
Nathaniah, slew Gedaliah and so many others (Jer. xli. 7),
and hence the name " Pit of Wickedness."*
Kephirah m*32, probably one of the villages (Kephirim)
in the valley of Ono, of Nehemiah vi. 2. (See Ono.)
Mozah nXIO is the village Kolonia, 3 English miles
* In Talmud Niddah^ fol. 61 a, we read, " They dug on a rock in
Beth-Horon, and found a pit full of human bones, and this is said to be
the pit which Ishmael son of Nathaniah, caused to be filled with slain.''
This strikes me as extremely singular ; since Beth-Horon is at a conside-
rable distance from Mizpeh, and this tragical event occurred in the latter
place. Nevertheless I found this same story in Tosephtah Niddah, chap,
viii., and there it is not said that this was Ishmael's pit ; it would appear
therefore that this addition in Talmud Niddah is not authentic. In 1
Sam. iv. 13, we read naVD pi l" Tad derech Mezapheh, " by the way-
side watching /' I almost am inclined to undertake another punctuation of
this word, and to read it Mizpeh^ and he was sitting by the wayside to
Mizpeh, for the battle there spoken of took place near .£bcn Haezer
(v. i.), and this stone was i^ear Mizpeh, as appears from 1 Sam. vii. 12 ;
and Eli was therefore waiting there for early accounts of the engagement.
Even the accents (nir;j) agree with the reading, and would seem to
denote its correctness.
128
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
west of Jerusalem, as appears from T. Sukkah. fol. 45 a,
that Moza is Kulonia.
Taralali n7X"in is perhaps the village Thaniel:;=Thariel
in the neighbourhood of Lod.
Zcla ySy in perhaps identical with Sela. a place in the
vicinity of Jerusalem. vSee Yalkut to 2 Samuel xxi. 14.
Gil)eath-Kirjath n'lp nj^DJ. See farther under Gebah
and Gibeah.
In Keveral passages of Holy Writ there are also spoken
of the following places as Ijelonging to Benjamin.
Anathoth mnjy (Joshua xxi. 18), is the little village
Anatha, ?> English miles northeast of Jerusalem. North
thereof is a Rtone quarry whence Jerusalem is supplied
with building stone. (See Zohar end of Vayechi.)
Almon poSi? (ibid.) ; Bachurim D'"linD (2 Sam. xvi.
5); Aicmeth nOiy (i Chron. viii. 36) ; Azmoveth niOfi'
(Nell. vii. 28). were all unknown hitherto to all inquirers
into the situation of the country ; but 1 have been favoured
to discover the situation. When, in ray journey of inves-
tigation through Palestine, I traversed the territory of
Benjamin, I discovered some ruins of very ancient build-
ings on the top of a high mountain, 1 English mile north-
east from the village Anatha. I made inquiry of the
inhabitants of the above village concerning the name and
fate of that ancient town ; but no one could give me an}'
information, until an old man, also belonging tO the vil-
lage, came to me and told me the following, which he
gave as a tradition received in his youth from his parents :
" On that mountain lay once the city of Al-Muth, the inha-
bitants of which rebelled against the ruler of the land, and
ho caused, therefore, the whole town to be demolished."
I took up my Bible, which I carried constantly with me,
and searched carefully into the cities enumerated in
Joshua xviii. as belonging to Benjamin ; but not one of
them bore the name of Al-Muth. I then searched among
the Levitical cities (xxi. 18) for this name, and found
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 129
there the town of Almon near Anathoth, whence then it
would appear that this Al-Muth, 1 English mile from
Anathoth, is actually the Almon of Joshua xxi. 18. The
parallel passage of 1 Chron. vi. 45, has Alemeth ; compare
with this ibid. viii. 36, where it says, Jehoada begot Ale-
meth and Azmaveth. In Ezra ii. 24, and Neh. vii. 28,
Azmaveth is mentioned as close to Anathoth; conse-
quently it is without doubt identical with Almon or
Alemeth, and the latter word is corrupted by the Arabs
into Al-muth. Bachurim (2 Sam. xvi. 5), is translated
by Jonathan with Almon ; whence it is clear that all the
four names at the head of this article are the Levitical
town of Almon, 1 mile northeast from Anathoth, likewise
belonging to the Levites, and situated on the same mount.
It is impossible now fo tell why so many names were
given to one locality.
Gilgal hi/} (Joshua v. 9), was, according to Josephus,
10 stadia from Jericho, and 50 stadia from Jordan. At
present there is found near the Jordan a hill which ap-
pears like a hieap of stones, and is called by the Arabs
Galgala.
Baal-Thamar *ion hy2 (Judges xx. 33). At the time
of Eusebius there was a village Beth-Thamar, not far
from Geba, but it is at present unknown.
Sela Rimmon po*in i^7D is the village Rimun, about
2i English miles east -of Beth-El. The whole village
almost is built on a rock, whence, therefore, properly its
name "the rock of Rimmon." See Tosephtah Sota, 18:
" South of Jerusalem is a plain, and in the district of
Geba and Rimmon are rocks and cliffs." In Yerushalmi,
beginning of Berachoth, is mentioned Rabbi of Romnah,
i. e. of Rimmon ; in Zohar to Shemini, Rabbi Zera of the
village pON^I Ramin.*
'*' In Midrash Echa to chap, i., y. 16, is told that Hadrian caused a
large number of Jews to be assetnbled in the valley of Beth-Rimmon,
9
130 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE,
Lelx)nali HJID? (Judges xxi. 19), is the present village
Lubiii, 2i Euglisli lailes west of Sliiloh, on the roiid from
Shechem to Jerusalem.
In laaiah x. 28-34, occurs the following; "He (San-
herib) is come to Aiath, he is passed to Migron, in Mich-
mash he hath laid up his caiTiagea ; they are gone over
the passage; Geba is a night-lodging for us; Ramah
tremblcth, Gibeah of Saul is fugitive. Lift up thy voice,
0 daughter of Gallim ; cause it to be heard in Laish (or
'listen Laish'), O poor Auatlioth. Madmenah is moved;
the inhabitants of Gebim gather to tiee. Even this day
will he rest in Nob ; he will shake his hand against the
mountain of tlic daughter of Zion, the hill of Jerusalem."
Aiath n'i-'j i- e. Ai. See in the 31 Kings.
Migron pIlD. About half an English mile south of
Beitun (Beth-El), are found some ruins, which the Arabs
call Burdj Magrun (i. e. the towii or fort of Magrun) ; and
they are undoubtedly remains of the town of Migron.
Michmash H'DDO. The village Mikmas, 2 English miles
and hod them there att slain, so tliat their blood flowed into the river
Kyproa. I take this river to be the present Wudj Mudiah, whieh flows
to the east of Rtjimu. Josephus (Bell. Jud. book i., chap. \ii.) makes
mention of this Kjproa, and relates that King Herod, in honour of his
mother Kypros, built n castle of the same name neur Jericho. Aston,
in reference to the passage cit«d from the Midrosb, thinks Kypros to
mean Cjprus, and explains the matter allcgorieolly, that the slaughter
was so great that the course of tho' blood could, as it were, be traced
through the sea as fiir as the island of Cyprus. But the Midraah spcuks
distiQctl; of a nvcr, not an island Kypros. Still I found in YeruEhalmi
Sukbuh 5, " the bliHkl ran through the sea (p'Z) to Kypros;" but I think
it ought to be DO like a sea, not a'2 into the sea. Upon the whole, there
is some trouble in reconciling all tho difficulties conneoted with this
event. The Yeruahalmi (loc. clt.), also Esther Rabbethi (introd.), say
that this tragic event befell the inhabitants of Alexandria in Egypt; and
if this be so, the river cannot be tho Wady Mudia ; but in Esther Kab-
bethi there is not the addition " that the blood ran like a stream ns far as
Kyproa."
_J
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 131
north of Djeba (Gibea), in the vicinity of which are the
ruins of a place called Zanua^ which would then argue that
the correct reading in Menachoth 83 6, should be KPJlJt
DODO Zenucha of Michmas, as the place where the best
wheat grows ; not as it is in many of our copies, since both
the names as given by me still exist at this day.
Maabrah n*l3yO, the passage. It is the same narrow
path through which Jonathan, son of Saul, went over to
attack the Philistines (see 1 Sam. xiv. 4); but the names
of the rocks there mentioned, Bozez and Seneh, are now
unknown.
Geba ^aj. See farther down.
Bath-Gallim D^Sil fia is the modem village Beth-
Djallin, situated between Ramleh and Jaffa, and was the
birth-place of Paltiel, the son of Laish (1 Sam. xxv. 44).
The assertion of Eusebius, that Gallim lies near Ekron, is
entirely incorrect, since Senacherib never penetrated thus
far. On the contrary, the whole of the towns mentioned
in Isaiah x. 28-32, as reached by the Assyrian king in
his expedition against Judah, are north of Jerusalem, in
the territory of Benjamin.
Laish and Madmenah HJOIDI B^v are no more known.
The former is perhaps the city of Leasa, mentioned in 1
Mace. ix. 5-15, whence Judah pursued Bacchides to the
mountains near Ashdod.
Gebim QOJ was, according to Eusebius, Ophni, situated
near Geba ; but it appears to me to have been identical
with Qobj where the Philistines fought with Israel (2 Sam.
xxi. 18). The parallel passage to this, however (1 Chroh.
XX. 4), reads Oeser. It is possible enough that Geser and
Gob are identical, or that they were two places situated
near one another.
Nob y\l is the present village Beth-Naba, distant 17
English miles northwest from Jerusalem.
Gebah, Gibeah, Gibath-Binjamin, Gibath-Shaul, y^\
132 GEOGRAPnT OF PALESTINE.
Swif nyaJ |0'JD npaj n^^DJ- Geba and Gibea denoted
one nud the suiue place, i'ur iu Judges xix. it is always
called Gibeah; still iu xx. 30 we find Geba; also in v.
33, *'the cave of Geba." So also in Joshua xviii. 24, the
word is also Geba. It is also called Gibath-Binjainin
{1 Sam. xiii. 2), also Gebii-Benjaiuin. This ^n'oves that
both uanies signify one and the same place. Its situation
must have been very near to Raraah (Judges xix. 13), and
is no doubt the modern Djeba, 2i English miles east ot
Kahm. We find, however, another town of the same
name, to wit, Gibeah or Geba, on the frontier between
Judah and Benjamin, in the neighbourhood of Kirjath-
Jearim. In 1 Sam. x. 15, it is called Gibeah; but in xiii.
3, it is termed Geba, also Gibeath-Shaul, or Gilieah of
Saul ; for this was his birth-place, from here his she-asses
ran away, from here he went out to seek for them, and
returned thither after consulting with Samuel. So also
it is said in Isaiah x. 20, "Gibeah of Saul is fled." We
find that Kirjath-Jearim is reckoned, in Joshua xv. 60,
among the cities of Judah.; but in xviii. 28, among those
of Bi'njamin. It must therefore have been situated, as a
matter of course, on the boundary line, so that it was
sometimes cousidered as belonging to the one, and at
others to the other tribe. I therefore investigated care-
fully the situation and surrounding country of Kirjath-
Jearim, and found that it is situated on the declivity of a
mount, which is south of the same. Close to the village,
in a northwest direction, is a height; and it appears evi-
dent that Geba must liave stood upon it. Both Kirjath-
Jearim and Geba formed but one continuous town. Kir-
jath-Jearim was at the south, and Geba at the north, and
the boundary line ran through both ; so that it is still visible
at this day, namely, because the boundary line ran along
the road which leads to Jaflk. Geba was thus a city of
Benjamin, whilst Kirjath-Jearim is assigned to Ixjth Ben-
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 133
jamin and Judah^ It appears to me even that, owing to
their geographical connexion, their names Ktrjath^Oibeath
(Joshua xviii. 28), are put in the construct state,* so to
say, placed in connexion as far as language can do it ; for
the first was in a measure Gibeath-Kirja (i. e. Gibeah of
Kirjah), and the latter Kirjath-Gibeah (i. e. Kirjah of
Gibeah). If it is now said in 1 Sam. vii. 42, "And the
men of Kirjath-Jearim came and fetched up the ark of
the Lord, and brought it unto the house of Abinadab in
Gibeah" (therefore afterwards called the "Hill of God,"
ibid. X. 5), "And it came to pass while the ark abode in
Kirjath-Jearim," fie.,-— thi^, however, will not appear as a
contradiction^ if we reflect that both formed but one city.
(See Bemidbar Kabbah, chap, iv., which says distinctly
that Gibeah and Kirjath-Jearim were but one toWn.)
" The sons of Benjamin were at Ananiah, Chazor,
Ramah, Gitthaim, Chadid. Zeboim, Nehallat, Lod, and
Ono, (in) the valley of Charashim." (Neh. xi. 32, 35.)
Ananiah H^Jjy is probably the village Beth-Chanina,
situated 3 English miles north of Jerusalem on the road
to Mizpeh.
Chazor ^IIVP?. 3 English miles northeast of Beth-El,
not far from the plain of Jordan, are yet seen the ruins
of Tell-Chazor, and if this be the city in question, it
was beyond the limits of Benjamin, as given in Joshua.
In the vicinity thereof, was the city of Ephraim, men-
tioned in 2 Chronicles viii. 17. Perhaps this Chazor was
* To those persona not acquainted with Hebrew, it may be enough to
state that, when two nouns in Hebrew are related to each other as pos-
sessor and possessed, the first, or the possessed, is put in the construct
state — not as in English, where the genitive form is attached to the pos-
sessor. So we say in Hebrew, "in i*;; the city of — ^David. Many times
this word is changed, either in vowels or consonants ; particularly is the
latter the case in feminine nouns ending in n, or the end syllable ah,
which is changed in n or ath. So Kirjah, city, becomes Kii^ath, city of,
and so with all others. — ^Translator.
134 GEOGEAPHT OP PALESTINE.
identical with tlie town Baal-Chazor, of 2 Samuel xiii. 23,
near Ephraim (Ephrain).
Gitthaim D'nJ» perhaps the present Ramleh, which is
also called Gath, as I have learned from several Jewish
documents, which favour the idea that Ramleh has been
built on the site of the ancient Gath, which is also men-
tioned in 2 Samuel iv. 3. The opinion ad^-auced by
others, that Ramleh ehould be the former Gdh, in the
land of the Philistines (Josh. xiii. 3), is erroneous. (See
above, article Gath.) There was formerly a large and
famous city named Gith, 5 English miles west of She-
chem, situated on a singly standing hut not high moun-
tain, not far from the plain of the sea; and there is at
present on the spot the village Kirjath-Djid (Gith); but
as it was situated in the territory of Ephraim, it cannot
be identical with this Gitthaim, which belonged to Benja-
min.
Chadid Tltl is the village Al Chadida, situated 5 Eng-
lish miles east of Lod, on the summit of a rouud moun-
tain. In the first book of the Maccabees xii. 38, and xiii,
13, mention is made of Adida in the Lowland ; i>ee also
Erechin chap. is. § 6, and Eduyoth, chap. vii. § 5. The
position assigned in the Maccabees agrees then with what
I have advanced, that the stMjalled Ix>wland or valley-
extended up to the mountain of Lod.
Zeboim D'J?3V is the village Zuba, situated on a high
mount, 3 English miles west of Jerusalem. In Challah iv.
10 ia mentioned the Mount Zeboim. This place had a
very strong fort, which was destroyed by Abraim (Ihra^
him) Pacha in the year 5594 (1834).
Neballat tsSsi is no doubt, according to my opinion, the
large village Beth Naballa, 5 English miles south of Ram-
leh.
Lod ni7, also called Lydia and Diospolis, is now the
large village Lidi, 2i English miles northeast of Ramleh.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 135
The Christians point out here the grave of their Saint
George, which name the town also bore during their
reign in Palestine.*
Ono 1J1X is entirely unknown now ; but it was situated
as the Talmud, end of Ketuboth, mentions, 3 mill from
Lod. (See also Zohar Vayetze, 151 a, and Pinchas, 117 a.)
The valley of Charashdm D^B^^nn ♦J. In Talmud Ye-
rushalmi Megillah, chap, i., is related that Lod and Ono
lay in the valley of Charashim, and in fact constituted
the same.
Azel SVK (Zech. xiv. 5; 1 Chron. xiii, 38, ix. 44). I
believe that this is the village Azaria instead of Azalia,
changing S 1 into T r (as also is done in Ezek. xix. 7),
which is situated southeast of the Mount of Olives. Per-
haps the name of this village may be derived from Azel^
son of Elasah, belonging to the tribe of Benjamin (1
Chron. viii. 37). In the Talmud, this place is named
Hutzal, in the portion of Benjamin (Megillah v. 6). A
town of the same name was in Babylonia, as appears from
* Rabbi Benjamin, of Tudela, in his travels says n^ K711 X)Mah DBHDI,
this is an incorrect reading and should be niS X'm :ni:i 'pwh "And from
there to sact. Georg, which is Lod/' In Semachoth chap. ii. § 4, it is said
" the son of Gorgos in Lod/' which I presume refers to the Georg in ques-
tion. This city was for n long time the seat of the most learned men after
the destruction of Jerusalem ; so that wo generally understand under the
terms Chachme Negeb, or Dahrom, (oni 'ddh and 2}} "oDn) "The wise
men of the south/' which often occur in the Talmud and Midrashim,
especially in Talmud Yerushalmi, the learned men who dwelt at Lod.
This will explain a somewhat obscure passage in Baba Bathra, fol. 25 b,
" He that wishes to become rich should turn northward, but if he desires to
be wise let him turn to the south." Now it appears from Josephus that
the land of Galilee was one of wealth, extraordinarily populous, and
famous for its agriculture and industry, consequently the seat of riches,
just as the south, the Dahrom, or Negeb, was the seat of learning. The
Talmud then, means, if one desire wealthy let him go into the northern
country, into Galilee ; but if ho, wishes to become learned, let him go
south to Lod, and acquire the wisdom there dispensed.
136 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Yoma, fol. 52 b* See also, farther down, my description
of the Mouiit of Olives-
Giinao VOJ (2 Chron. xxviJi. 18), is the village Dgimsi,
21 English inilea east of Ix)d, on the way to JeruRalem.
Nahum lah Gimao was a native of this place. (Taanith
21a.)
Anab 3jy (Joshua xi. "21), ia the village Auabah, 3
English miles east of Ramleh.
Shaphir TflC (Micah i. 11). We have already re-
marked in the description of Judah, that southeast of
Ashdod there is a village Suaphir; hut also 2i English
miles northwest of Lud, there is a village naiued Saphiriah,
which is probably the one meant in Micah. Nevertheless,
nearly all the places mentioned hy this prophet lie in the
northwest part of Judah.
Aphek pfljt {1 Sam. iv. 1 ; vii. 12) ; there is not avestige
to be found any more of this city, which must have been
situated in the neighbourhood of Mizpeh.
Beth-Kor 13 iT3 {ibid. vii. 11) is probably the modern
village Kama, near Raraalah, which ia a village situated
on a mountain, 2 English miles west of Beci-oth, and not
to he mistaken for Ramleh. But it is also possible that
Beth-Kor was situated on the Wady Kurava, which
unites with the Wady Lubau (Lcbona), and extends as
far as the Wady Udshe. {See article ppTil *0 Me Ilayar-
kon.) Probably it ia the Kuria mentioned in Jos., Bel.
Jud., book V. chap. iv.
We will now notice the following towns belonging to
Benjamin, mentioned in the Talmudic writings.
Keni 'Jp (Ahaloth xviii. 9 ; Yernshalmi, end of Teru-
♦In Talmud Kcthuboth. fol. 3 a, is said " Hutzal -f Benjamin in
the land of Babylon." I, bowever, believe that "of Bcnjamiu" is an
erroneouB addition, Hince the passiLge return to the country of Babylon.
And, in truth, I found in old editions, the correct reading 'S^J "pK2 Ssin
" fiutuil in the land of Babylon."
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 137
moth ; Zohar Tazria, 42 6, as Keni near Lod) is probably the
village En-Keni, about 2 English miles east of Lidi ; in the
immediate neighbourhood thereof, is the cave in which
Rabbi Simeon Ben Yochai and his son lived in conceal-
ment; as it appears clearly from the introduction to
Tickune Zohar, that it was in the environs of Lod. This
is also asserted in Talmud Yerushalmi Taanith, chap, iv.,
and in Pesiktah Eabbethi, 32. It is, therefore, quite erro-
neous to show this cave in Upper Galilee, near Pekiin, as
it is said in the book Shibeche Yerushalem.
Kefar-Dichrin pi31 133 (Gittin, fol. 57 a) was a city
situated on the Tur Malka, " the King's Mountain." It
was probably identical with the town of Beth-Zachara,
mentioned in 1 Mace. vi. 32, and elsewhere, and in Jose-
phus' Antiquities and War of the Jews, since ZacJiar is
the same as the Chaldaic Dvchririj both signifying male.
Astori found yet, 2i English miles north of Lidi, in the
mountains, a village called Dachrin, but it is now un-
known.
Pekiin pj^^pfl (Chagigah, fol. 3 a, Sanhedrin 32 6,) was
between Jabne and Lod, but is now unknown.
Be-Tray nn O (Sanh. 95 a) is probably the village
Bi-tharis, 1 English mile east from Lidi.
Kubi Olp (ibid.), is probably the village Kubab, 3 Eng-
lish miles southeast of Ramleh'.
Zalmon poSv (Yebamoth, 122 a; end chap. iv. Mishna
Kelaim ; Tosephtah Parah, 8 ; Torath Cohanim to Be-
chuckotai). In Greek authorities I find the following in-
dication of this place : ^' Zalominfe is a town in the vicinity
of Diospolis (Lod), but the particulars are not any more
known at present." It is possible, however, that the ruins
of Calomon (for Zalomon), situated 1- English mile west
of Kuneisa, on the shore of the Mediterranean, south of
Chaifa, are the remains of the city in question.
Josephus Antiq., b. v. chap, i., says, that the portion of
138 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
Benjamin extended from Jerusalem to Beth-El ; elsewhere
he says, that it extended to the Great Sea (Mediterranean).
He consequently contradicts himselt' with what he says
concerning the position of tlie land of Dan.
It is trne that the boundaries of the territory of Dan
are not given in the Scriptures ; but they can ho deter-
mined with tolerable accuracy from the towns of this
tribe, as enumerated in Joshua xix, 40—48. Through
means of Josephus, who in various passages calls Jabne.
(Jamnia) a city of Dan. and gives Dor (Dandura) as the
most northern, and Ashdod aa the moat southern towns
of the same, we can easily fix the northern and southern
boundaries. It appears also, from the description of the
territory of Simeon, that the present village Beilin. the
Baalath* of the Bible, was the most northerly point of
* In Yerushalnii Sanhodrin, chap, i., it says : " We find that the public
announcement of the year and the monthly detcrniiaation of the feasts
and festivals (Binn Efnpi njiffn pnp) by the Sanhedrin (which would
only tnke place in the territory of Judah), were made in Baalath, which
eometimea belonged to Judah and at others to Dan. BHhelte, Gihethnn,
and Baulatb, belonged to Judah ; Bualuh, Jyim, and Ezem, belonged to
Dan. How conld they then make the announcement ia Baalath ? Be-
cauee the houses belonged to Jiidu^h, the fields, however, to Dan." This
passage contains much of interest in a geographical point of view, ho that
I deem it pniper to discuss it somewhat at length. It appears strange
that Eltheke, &e., should bo ascribed to Jadah, and Baalab, &c., to Dan,
when the reverse seems to have been the case, on reference to Joshua xv-
29 and xix. 44. Again, if Baalath belonged to Judah, the determination
of years and festivals could legally take place there; the question, there-
fore, in the passage cited appears most surprising. There can, therefore,
be no doubt but tlmt a transposition has taken place in the passage before
UB, aud that it ought to be read correctly " Eltlieke Gibthon, and Baalath
belonged to Dan, and Baulah, Jyim, and Ezem, to Judati." We can
iduco from this passage of the Yerushalmi that the Uaalah of Joshua
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 139
this tribe ; it lay therefore on the boundary between Simeon
and Dan, and was thus the most southeasteriy point of
the latter. The boundary ran thence westward to Ash-
dod, on the Mediterranean, and on the other side from
Baalath over Beth-Shemesh, the modern En-Sems, to
Ajalon, now Jalo, and turning northwesterly it ran be-
tween Lod and Ramleh, for the former belonged to Ben-
jamin, and then northerly over Djilil, Kefar-Saba, &c.,
to Dandura, the ancient Dor. It will, thus appear that
the territory of Dan was situated between the Mediter-
ranean and the portions of Benjamin and Ephraim, so
that the western parts of these tribes could by no means
have extended to the sea. What is said therefore in the
description of the limits of the sons of Joseph, " And the
goings out thereof were to the sea," (Joshua xvi. 3, 5,)
means only that the boundary ran in a straight line, with-
out turning to the north and south m the dxLtion of the
sea, but not that it ever touched the same. Josephus, by
the by, contradicts himself, in extending the land of Ben-
xv. 29y is different from Baalath' of ibid. xix. 44, since the former was
quite to the south, and that the second, which was also called Baalath
Beer (Bamoth Negeb), was in the portion of Simeon, and was on the
boundary between this tribe and Dan, but is still considered by the Yeru-
shalmi as a city of Judah, because originally all the part of Simeon was
included in that of his powerful brother, so that the cities of the former
are also considered as belonging to the latter. We learn farther from
this that the frontier towns are often considered as belonging to one and
again to the other tribe, and that in a measure the possession of them
was alternately determined, since the text says, '' Sometimes to Judah,
at others to Dan.'' Again, that occasionally the division of these boun-
dary towns was so, that the town itself, the buildings, as the Talmud has
it, belonged to one, whilst the fields, meadows, and environs belonged to
another tribe ; which exposition will enable us to unravel many obscurities
in the divisions of the tribes.
■ I belieye that Baalath is Baalah in the construct state, and is, so to say, aa
abbreviated phrase, and that the other noun belonging to it is to be understood.
Thus Baalah of Bear. The Kanutz in Joshua xix. 44, is only because it con-
cludes the verse. — Translatok.
140
GEOGRAJ'HT OF PALESTINE.
jaioin to the Great Sea, whilst he alleges that the coaet
belonged to Dan.
We \vill uow mention the following of the towns of Dan :
Zoreah and Eshtaol 'jNnCK HSnit- See above, page
101.
Ir-Shemesh CDS' TJ?. See above, page 104.
Shaalabbira ^y^J^Sf is no longer known. In the time
of Eusebius there was a village in the vicinity of Sebasta
(Samaria), called Shelbin. If now the territory of Dan
extended so fur as Dor, as Josephus reports, then is it
easy to conceive that this tribe had some possessions up
to the immediate viqinity of Samaria. The next men-
tioned town, Ajalon, is certainly a considerable distance
from Samaria; but it is by no means unusual to enume-
rate several towns together, although they He far apart
from one another.
Ajalon pS'N is the modem village Jalo, 11 English
miles from Jerusalem, and 2 J English miles from Gibeon ;
wherefore the assertion of Rashi to Joshua x. 12, that
Ajalon is far from Giboon, is not borne out by the fact.
East of Lod, on the road to Gimso, there is a large valley
running between two high mountain peaks, of which one
points to the south, the other to the north. On the
southern mount, there is the just-mentioned Jalo, oppo-
site to which ties, on the northern mount, the village Beth-
Ur, which is Lower Beth-Horon of Joshua x. 10, and xvi.
3. Above the same, is a narrow pass which leads to a
village lying on the summit ol' a steep mount, and is
now called Beth-Ur Fok, which means Upper Beth-Horon
(Joshua xvi. 5) ; but this appellation seems to me erro-
neous, since this place must have been much farther
removed from Lower Beth-Horon ; it would be more cor-
rect* to take it for " the descent to Beth-Horon" of Joshua
• This narrow pass is also mentioDed in Saulie<]riii, 32 b, and TosephtAh b,
Niddah 8, also in BereshitL Kabbah Ti, whure it speaks of Rab Huna of
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 141
X, 11. From this peak one can see Gibeon to the east
and Ajalon to the west. It would then appear that
Joshua must have stood here when (x. 12) he called out
in prophetic inspiration " Sun, stand still in Gibeon, and
moon, in the valley of Ajalon."
Elon pTN. Although not any more known, it is ne-
vertheless mentioned in 1 Klings iv. 9, along with Shaalab-
bin, Beth-Shemesh and Betb-Chanan.
Elthek6 PlpnSK, also called Elthekon (Joshua xv. 59),
is perhaps tne village Althini, not far from Beilin (Baa-
lath).
Baalath Tljiaj rh^^- See above, page 122.
Jehud nn^ is the village Jehudia, 7i English miles
southeast of Jaffa.
Bene Berak p*i3 ♦ja. There is a spot, 5 English miles
northeast fix)m Jaffa, which the Arabs call Barak, perhaps
the former site of the town, although there are no ruins
to be found at it. The assertion of Eusebius that this
town should have been situated near Ashdod, is incorrect.
. Gath-Kimmon pD*l Di wad situated, according to Euse-
bius, 12 mill north of Eleutheropolis, on the road to Lod.
It is at present unknown.
Me Hajarkon ppi%1 ♦O? i. e. the waters of disease; this
pkce wa«, a<^ording to my opinion, near the Wady Udshi,
which descends from the mountains of Lod. Wady Udshi
Beth-Horon. In Yoma, chap. vi. § 9, it says : '' It is a distance of 8
mill from Jerusalem to nnn n'D Beth Chidodo ;'* but the Yerushalmi to
this passage and Maimonides read " to Beth-Horon/' I confess that this
reading cannot be correct^ since Beth-Horon is much farther than 3 mill
from Jerusalem. Josephus says the distance is 100 stadia, about 12
English miles ; and Beth-Ur is actually thus far from Jerusalem. The
correct reading, therefore, is Beth-Chidodo, the name of a town or place
now unknown, but which was probably southeast of Jerusalem^ near the
valley of ICidron, the rocky de^es of which was the place whither the
scapegoat (Stni;;^ n^ni^Dn T};\ff) was sent on the Day of Atonement^ of
which I may, perhaps, speak more hereafter. .
142 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
also siguifieH the stream of pain, nearly synonyraouR with
the Hebrew appellation of the town, which was also most
likely applied to the river near which it stood.
Jaffa 13*. This is a small town, surrounded with a wall
and defended by a small furt. It is situated on the Medi-
terranean Sen, and forms the harbour of Jerusalem.*
When I arrived in Palestine in the year 5593 (1833),
there lived not even a single Inraelite in this place ; at
present, however, are found here near t/iirty families.
That many Israelites lived here in ancient times, is proved
sufficiently by many passages in the Talmud ; for instance,
in Yerushalmi, end of Mo6d Katone, and Pesiktah Bab-
bethi 1 5, we find mentioned R. Acha, of Jaffii ; in Yeru-
shalmi Pesachim, chap, i., R. Phineas. of Jaffa; in Talmud
B. Megillfth, fol. 16 6, R. Adda Demin Jaffa; in Vayi-
kra Rabbah, R. Nachman, of Jaffa, and Pesiktah Rab-
betlii 17, R. Tanchum, of Jaffa. This town was totallj*
destroyed in the year 5358 (1598) ; but was subsequently
built up again. When Napoleon returned this way in the
year 5560 (1800), after his unsuccessful expedition against
Akko (St. Jean D'Acro), he caused, in his anger at his de-
feat, the walls of Jaffa to be battered down. (For farther
particulars, sec historical part.)
Bene-Elam and Bene-Charim D'ln *J3 oS'i' '33 (Ezra
ii. 31, 32), is perhaps the village Charim ben Elim, situated
on a bay of the sea, 8 English miles nortli-northeast of
Jaffa. The inhabitants point out here the grave of the
high priest Eli, contained in an elegant building; but no
one acquainted with the Bible, can have the least doubt
* In Yuniii, fc!. 38 a, we read, " When they arrived at the harbour of
Akko," i. e. at the time they carried the gates raado for the temple from
AJesandria tn JeruHakm. I can ecarcely believe that it was neceasary to
run so far mirth as Akko for this purpose, and I venture therefore to read
Jaffa in its place ; and in truth, the Talmud Yeruahulmi for Yuma, in the
same narration, has 13' ^a n'ra] " The harbour of Jaffa."
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 143
of the incorrectness of assuming this monument to be
what is alleged for it. For, why should Eli, who died at
Shiloh (1 Sam. iv. 18), have been carried hither to be bu-
ried ? This error appears to me to have arisen fix)m an
incorrect interpretation of the name of the town Charim
ben Elim. It is evidently a compound of Bene-Elam and
Bene-Charim, both of which places, as is apparent from
the others mentioned in Ezra ii., must have 'been situated
in the neighbourhood of Jaffa. The people now changed
Elam into Eli, and thus originated the false legend that
the grave of Eli the high priest was existing there. On
this grave, over which is built quite an elegant structure,
there is a large tombstone, inscribed on one side with a
Hebrew, and on the other with a Samaritan, inscription.
It is well known, the Samaritans call themselves all
priests, and their chief they called " high priest." It is,
therefore, highly probable that this grave encloses the
bones of one of these ; perhaps his name may have been
Eli, whence then the origin of this error becomes doubly
apparent. The Samaritans, however, go constantly to this
grave to perform at it their devotions ; but every one who
is truly pious, will guard himself against being misled by
legends of so little credibility as this. Near this place
are some ruins, which are probably the remains of Apol-
lonia, mentioned in Josephus' Antiquities and the Jewish
War.
Ataroth, Beth Joab 3KV n*3 rCDtS}^ (1 Chron. ii. 54).
On the road from Jerusalem to Jaffa, Ii English miles
west of Saris, is the village Al Etron (incorrectly pro-
nounced Latrun), and is no doubt the ancient Ataroth.
Three-fourths of an English mile north-northeast of this
is Beth-Joab, near which is a large spring called BirnJoab.
From those places of Dan mentioned in the Talmudic
writings, we will describe the following.
Kefar Saba N3D ^33 (Yerushalmi Demai, chap, ii.), is
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Btill a village, situated 3 English miles north of Djilil, or
Gilgal (Joshua xii. 23). In tliis Kcfar Saba is found a
monument, which the Arabs call "the sepulchre of the
sons of Jacob ;" but I could not ascertain the reason of so
naming it. This town wa« also called Autipatris (see
Yoma, 69 «,. and Gittin, 7ft n) ; and Josephua relates of it,
that Herod had it built up, and gave it the name of Anti-
patris, in honour of his father Antipater.
Either TTl'D (Gittin, 67 a). Of this formerly celebrated
city, which was situated 10 English miles north of Kefar
Saba, there remains nothing but some ruins. There is
also a village of the same name 7i English miles south-
west of Jerusalem.
Kisarin I'^D'p also called Csesarea Palestuiai (Me^^Uah,
6 a), is at present the miserable villtjge Kisarie, and is
situated on the Mediterranean, 7i English miles south
of Dardura. It was built by Herod, called the great, and
named Caisarea, in honour of the Roman emperor, Augustus
Otesar. This Ibmierly famous seaport town, and the lai'gest
in Palestine after the destruction of Jerusalem, is now
totally destroyed ; and there is nothing visible of its former
elegance, except large and still remarkable ruins, the inte-
riors of whieb are filled up with the huts of fishennen.
When Ibrahim Pacha undertook considerable repairs on
the fortifications of Akko, he caused some large stones
from the ruins of Csesarea to be brought away for the
purpose. In order to distinguish tins place from another
of the same name at the foot of the Anti-Lebanon (CjEsarea
Philippi), this one was called Ctesarea PalestinoB.
Pundeka Xplila (Yeruahalmi Demai, oh. ii., " from Pun-
deka to Kefar Saba"), is the present village Phmiduk, 5
English miles east of Kefar Saba. Also 2i miles north
north-east of Sebasta (Samaria), there is the village Phun-
dokomi. It will appear from the pa'?sage just cit*'d irom
the YeruHhalmi, that there were two towns called Pun-
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 146
deka ; and these are no doubt the two villages Phunduk
and Phundokomi.
Zerifin pSHX (Menachoth, 64 6), the present village
Zaraphan, 2 i English miles north of Ramleh, on the road
to JaflFa. Another village of the jaame name, Zeraphan
Athikah, i. e. the old Zeraphan, is in the vicinity of
Ekron.
Kushta NDB^Ip (Sanhedrin, 97 a), is probably the village
Al Kustani, situated in the Lowland, 5 English miles south-
west of Ekron.
Ramleh J<7D^? i. e. sand, in Arabic, so called on account
of the large- quantity of sand found on the road from Jaffa
to this place, lies 10 English miles southeast of Jaffa, in
the Lowland. It is therefore quite erroneous to assume
that this town is identical with Ramathaim-Zofim, which
was on the mountain of Ephraim. Not less surprised was
I to find it stated, in a description by a non-Israelite, that
in olden time no mention whatever occurs of Ramleh, the
more so since the Mahomedan historian Abulfeda relates
that it was built in the year 63 (i. e. 4435 A. m., or 675 c. e.)
by Soliman Ebed al Maliki. This is evidently a mistake ;
because Ptolemy already speaks of Ramleh in his descrip-
tion of the country. The error of the author quoted may
have arisen from a rebuUding of the town by SoUman.
THE SONS OP JOSEPH.
" And the lot of the children of Joseph fell from Jordan
by Jericho, unto the water of Jericho on the east, to the
wilderness that goeth up from Jericho throughout Mount
Beth-El, and goeth out from Beth-El Luzah, and passeth
along unto the borders of Archi to Ataroth, and goeth
down westward to the border of Japhleti, unto the border
of Beth-Horon the nether, and to Gezer ; and the goings
out thereof are toward the sea." (Joshua xvi. 1-3.)
In eitplanation of this passage, I will remark that only
10
146 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
the southern boundary of Ephraim and Menasseh, as it
limitu ia this direction the territories of both, is designated
with the common name of " the boundary of the sons of
Joseph." In describing, however, the other boundary
linesj the names of both the respective tribes are men-
tioned. (See Joshua xvi. 5, and xvii. 7.) By the Water
of Jericho is uuderatood the spring called En-Sultan, which
is the same with that known aa the spring of Elisha,
which, aa mentioned above, page 83, has its source north-
west of Jericho ; and as it spreads itself like a eti-eam, it
is called here "the water of Jericho." Since now the
northern border of Benjamin is the southern one of the
sons of Joseph, we can take it for granted that the Ataroth
here mentioned is the same with Ataroth-Adar of Joshua
xviii. 13, or at least that they were two places situated
close by each other. At the present time there are two
villages called Atarah, one of which is 1 English mile
south of Beeroth, and the other 74 English miles north of
Beit-un (Beth-El). It appeared to me at first doubtful
which of the two was the Ataroth of the Bible ; but upon
closer investigation 1 conduced myself that thin position
must bo assigned to the first, and that the second was
merely an arbitrary appellation, of which no trace can be
found in antiquity. The assertion of Eusebius, that Arehi-
Ataroth is 4 mill south of Sebasta, appears to me quite
erroneous.
Japhlet D73», though not known at present must still
have been situated between Atara of Betroth and Beth-
XJr, i. e. Beth-Choron.
Gezer 1IJ. See the 31 Kings, page 85.
Lower and Upper Beth-Horon (Choron). These two
places, as appears from Joshua xvi, 3 and 5, must have
been a considerable distance apart, and we have already
remarked above, p. 140, that the first was near Jalo (Aja-
lon). In order to determine the site of the eecond, the
' THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 147
following will, I think, be sufiBcient. In the book of Jashar
to Gen. xxxiv., it is alleged that Beth-Horon was not far
jfrom the town of Gaash ; and the remains of Joshua are
interred, as is well known, from Joshua xxiv. 30, at Tim-
nath-Serach, now, no doubt, the village Kefar Charas, as
the burial-place of Joshua is called Timnath-Cheres in
Judges ii. 9, and it is at the same time described as north
of Mount Gaash. (The grave, moreover, of the great leader
of the Israelites, ornamented with a handsome monument^
is pointed out at Kefir Charas.) Consequently Beth-
Choron must have been in the immediate vicinity of this
place. And indeed there is, 3 English miles north of it, a
village named Chavara, and the similarity is sufficiently
strong to authorize us to suppose it to be the ancient
Upper Beth-Choron. It iis probable that the Persian
Satrap of Moab, Sanballat, the Choronite (Neh. ii. 10),
was a native of this town.
The position of the frontier towns of verses 6 and 7 is
correctly given by Eusebius, as follows :
Michmethah was 15 mill from Shechem, and 6 mill
from Beth-Shean; Taanath-Shiloh* 10 mill east from-
Shechem, in the vicinity of Jordan, and Janocha, 12 mill
east of Shechem, and Naaran (1 Chron. vii. 28), at present
called Neama, was 5 mill from Jericho.
But the meaning of the various Bible passages is not
that the boundary line ran westerly firom Beth-Horon to
Michmethah, for the latter was not in a western direction
from the former, but at a distance of more than 20 English ..
miles in a northern course ; and the western border is first
defined only farther down in verse 8. I rather think the
proper meaning to be that the border did not run in a
straight line from Beth-Horon to Michmethah, but at first
* According to Yemshalmi Megillah, chap, i., Taanath-Sliiloh is iden-
tical with Shiloh. Jf this be so, then the statement of Eosebius is incor-
rect, and should be in that case 15 mill southeast from Shechem.
148 GEOGRAPnr of PALESTrWE.
somewhat westerly, and then it turned northeasterly, till it
touched Michmethah ; thence t*) the south, to the east uf
Taanath-Shiloh, and then farther southeasterly to the
Jordan. The western bonier, however, went (verse 8)
from Tappuach to the stream Kanah, which flows to the
west of Shechem, and falls into the Mediterranean, in the
southern vicinity of Ciesarea Palestinse, and it was this
river which separated Ephraim from Meuasseh. Josephus
relates that the possessions of Ephraim extended from
Beth-El to the valley of Jczreel ; for Michmethah was not
far from this valley.
Of the cities of the sons of Joseph, Menasseh and
Ephraim, we will enumerate the following (see Joshua
xvii. 11) :
Beth-Shean ^m^ n'3, called in Talmud Be-shan, and
in the times of the Greek rule, Scythopolis, i. e. town of
the Scythians, is situated 10 English miles south of Tibe-
rias, and at a distance of 2 English miles from the Jordan,
and is at present but a small village of 200 inhabi-
tants, who live in about 80 small and low houses. Still
there are seen the ruins of ancient Roman buildings. At
the time of Astori it was yet a targe city, where many
Israelites lived,*
Jible^m DJ?7y (called Bilcam in 1 Chron. vi. 55, and
Belama in Judith viii, 3), is probably the modern village
Jabla, which is southwest of Beth-Sheau, and about 2
English miles south of the village Kafra.
* In 1 Kings x»li. 3i), tlero is spoken of r\i2 itJN \\ar\ n'3l comninnlj
rendered " And the ivory house whioh he built ;" it may perhups shind for
|K» n'3', " And Beth-Slican whicL be built." Shcn id Hebrew means
tuolh, and par excellence that of the elephant, or iVory ; hence the reading
aa it is would gire un an ivory palace ; but if it be a contraction for Shean,
it would Bay thai Ahab rebuilt Beth-Shean.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 149
Dor "INHj is the present small village Dardura, or Dan-
dura, 10 English miles north of Caesarea, on the sea-shore.
It has now but 50 inhabitants, and the ruins of an ancient
fortification.
En-dor ^n pj;, is the village An-dar, 3 English miles
northeast of Jezre^l.
Thaanach IJJ^n (mentioned as the Levitical town Anen^
in 1 Chron. vi. 55), is the modem village Thanak, and is
situated in the valley of Jezreel, 2 J English miles south of
Ladjon (Legion or Megiddo), on the river Mekad6 or
Kishon.
Megiddo TiJD? at present called Ladjon (from Legion,
an army corps), wherefore the Romans so called it, is also
situated on the Kishon, for which reason thig stream is
called the " Waters of Megiddo" (Judges v. 19), as has been
said above in the description. of the rivers of Palestine.
The Three Nepheth (English version, three countries),
JlSin ntn^^ probably three places of the same name,
which were all situated in the neighbourhood of Dor
(Joshua xii. 23), which would appear also to have been
the case from the fact that even now there is a village
called Naphatha 2 J miles southeast of Dardura.
Kamon V\'C!^ (Judges x. 5), is at present unknown ; but
was situated, according to Eusebius, in the valley of Jezreel,
6 mill north of Megiddo.
NAMES OF THE tOWNS OP THE SONS OF JOSEPH.
Shomerone (Samaria) p^DB^ {1 Kings xvi. 24), was for-
merly the capital and residence of the kings of Israel,
commencing with Omri. Its situation is on the Mount
Shomerone, 5 English milos northwest of Shechem, and is
at present but a small village, Sebaste. This name, which
also occurs even in the Talmud (Erechin, chap. ii. ), is derived
from the Greek (fsfia^rag (Sebastos, synonymous with Au.
gustus) ; it was so called by Herod I., in honour of Au-
150 GEOGKAPnT OF PALESTINE.
gu8tu8 Cfesar, when he adorned it with magnificent and
large edifices. Even at this day several remarkable ruins
can be seen near Sebaste (among which is a colonnade of
sixty marl>le coIumnB), which no doubt date from the time
of Herod.*
Tirzah nvin (1 Kings xiv. 17). This former place of
residence of Jeroboam, son of Nebat, king of Israel, is now
the village Tar/a, and is situated on a high mount east of
Samaria.
Shechem DDB* (Gen. xii. 6), is at present a city without
walls, and is situated, south and north, between the mounts
Gerizzim and Ebal. In the time of the Romans, it was
named Flavia NeapoUs, whence it is called, in the corrupted
dialect of the country, Nablus.f Here live twenty Jewish
families, and many Cutlieans, who live nowhere else in
Palestine, But I shall speak of this sect in another place.
To the east of Shechem, at the distance of alxiut 2 English
miles, is the village Abulnita, where Joseph lies buried,
(Joshua xxiv. 32.)
The hill of Phinehas Dm'S ny3J (ibid. 33). Five Eng-
lish miles southeast of Shechem is the Tillage Avartha,
i. e. inheritance (compare with Talmud Baba Bathra, 1116),
in which the grave of Phinehas is. The grave of his father,
Elazar, is close by it, on a high mountain. Below the vil-
* In Megillath Taanith, chap, vii., w mentioned 'ODia D'h 1K3 "they
cftme to the sea of Buste," which ia evidently an error, as no such place
or sea is known ; it should read, however, 'DaDO^ " to Sebaste," and
tho corruption is no doubt owing to the carcleasness of a transcriber, by
first dividiog the word into two, and then adding a useless letter.
I In Midrasli Rabbiih to section Massay 'i'^rj, wo read □"isx in3 D3I?
I'SiSJ ini "Shechem, in the mountain of Ephraim, in Napulin," which is &
faulty reading, and should be ^'l^Di Napulia, Neapolis, or Nablus. In
Talmud YeruBbalmi Abodah Zarab, chap, v., it is said, "Rabbi Ishmnol
went to Napulis when the Culhiana eamo," 4«. ; whence it will be seen
that the Talraudiata already made use of this word to denote Shechem.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 161
lage, in the midst of oUve trees, is the grave of Ithamar.
These sepulchres are omamented with large monuments.
Thimnath-Serach n*lD HiOD (Joshua xxiv. 30), is the
village Charas, 5 English miles south-southwest of She-
chem. There are found the graves of Joshua, his father
Nun, and Caleb, all of which are marked with large monu-
ments.
Shalem chtff (Gen. xxxiii. 18), is the village Salin, 5
English miles east of Shechem.
Pirathon priJ^IQ (Judges xii. 15), "is probably the
modem village Pretha, on the mountain of Amalek, 5
English miles west of Shechem." So says Astori ; but at
present it is quite unknown.
Shamir ^♦DB^ (Judges x. 1). This town was probably
situated 6 English miles northeast from Samaria, on the
same place where now are found the ruins of the fort
Sanur, the n being substituted for the m.
Shiloh rh^tff \1 Sam. i. 3). Ten English miles north-
northwest of Sela-Rimmon is the village Thurmassia
(Talmud Yerushalmi Barachoth, chap, ii., R. Jacob of
Thurmassia), not far from which are foimd the ruins of
Seilon or Shiloh. In the time of Astori Hapharchi, the
town of Shiloh was yet standing ; and there was a vault,
which was named Kubah al Sechina, i. e. " the vault of
the holy residence," synonymous with 1j;iD 7njt "the
tabernacle."*
* In Talmud Zebachim, 118 by also in Temshalmi Megillah, chap, iy.,
we read : '' A narrow strip of land went out from the portion of Joseph
into the territory of Benjamin, and on this stood the altar of Shiloh/'
To one who knows the situation of the territories of Joseph and Benjamin,
it must appear extremely strange to maintain that Shiloh, which, with
all its environs, is situated in the portion of Joseph, should have stood on
a strip of land, as here described. I therefore assert boldly that an error
has occurred here in transcribing, and that the reverse would be the
proper reading — "A narrow strip of land went out from the territory of
Benjamin into the portion of Joseph,'' &c. I found, moreover, that such
I
I
I
152 GEOGRAPHT OP PALESTINE.
Thebez j'nn (Judges ix. 50), Ls the village Thubaz, 7
English miles northeast of Shechem.
RAUAH IN THE MOUNTAIN OF EFBaAlM. RAMATSAlM-ZOPniM.
Since there prevail so many erroneous opinions with
respect to this town, the birth-place of the prophet Samuel,
I am induced to apeak of it more at length than usual.
In the village Rame Nehi Smuel, 4 English miles north-
west from Jerusalem, is found a monument, which is said
to mark the resting-place of Samuel. Over it stood for-
merly a Christian church, but now a Turkish mosque,
with a high tower, whence the muezzin calls the people
five times every day to their devotions with a loud voice.
The lower part of this mosque is a very old massive struc-
ture, having its origin at the time of the Christian supre-
macy in Palestine ; but the upper portion and the tower
are more modem, and the work of the Turks, and were
constructed under Mahomed Pacha, who resided at Jeru-
salem in the year 5385 (1025). I ascended once to the top
of the tower, and was well rewarded for the exertions I
made by the magnificent and wide prospect which ofltjred
errors in traoBcribiiig are bj no means reniarkab]j ecarcc. For instance,
it is said of the site of the alt&r at Jerusalem, in Yoma, fol. 12 a, "A
strip went out from Judah to Benjamin," on which it stood; and in
Siphri to Deut. iixiii. the reyersc is stated, "from Bcnj&min tu Judah,"
nuc of which aSRC^tions must needs be erroneous. And wo may assert
this with regard to Shiloli, that an error in evident Id the statement as it
now reads. I also found latterly, quite to my satisfaction, that Kimohi
to 1 Samuel vii. 7, cites the above passage as I have correcti^d it, which
proves that it is well founded. The circumstance of tliis narrow strip's
going out from Benjamin, will now explain the difficulty which I noticed
when speaking of Husor in the trihe of Benjamin, that the modern Chir-
beth-Tell-Chazor does not lie in that, but in the territory of Joseph.
But as now this strip commenced near the viciuity of the town Sels-
Rimmon, and extended to Shilnli, it will place the Chirbath-Tcll-Chasor
precisely in the portion belonging to Benjamin, although it is within the
territory of Joseph.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 153
itself to my view. I saw on the one side the long line of
the Mediterranean, on the other the whole plain of the
Dead Sea ; the southern mountains near Chalchul (which
see, page 107); the mountains of Shechem, &c.; in short,
such a prospect as I had scarcely ever enjoyed before. In
the interior of the mosque, where the Arabs keep a per-
petual light, is found the form of a grave-hillock, over
which is the monument, over which is spread a handsome
green cover. Under this stone a cavern is said to exist,
in which, as is alleged, rest the remains of Samuel and
his parents, Elkanah and Hannah. This spot is also
honoured by the devout of our own brother Israelites, and
is visited, especially on the 28th and 29th of lyar of every
year. (Comp. Orach Chayim, chap. 580.) It is never-
theless not to be disputed, that it is erroneous to take this
monument as the one which marks the grave of Samuel ;
because Bame is in the centre of the cities of Benjamin,
near Gibath-Shaiil ; and it appears from 1 Samuel xv. 1,
that the prophet was buried in his home at Bamah, in the
moimtain of Ephraim (ibid. i. 1). This mountain, it is
true, extends itself widely both in length and in breadth,
even into the territories of other tribes, for instance, Me-
nasseh, Issachar (Judges X; 1), Benjamin, Dan, and as far
as the Lowland of Judah. Still it can be easily proved
that Bamah did not lie near Gibath-Shaiil, because
1. When Saul went out to seek the stray asses of his
father, he only arrived, on the third day after leaving his
fathers house, at Gibath-Shaiil, at Bamah (1 Sam^ ix.
20). The question now would arise, how could he spend
the time of three days in roaming over a space of but a
few miles in extent, that is in case the present Bam6
should mark the residence of Saiauel ?
2. David fled from before Saul, and went to Samuel at
Najoth in Bamah (1 Sam. xix. 18). If now Bamah had
I
164 GEOGRApnr of Palestine.
been close to Gibatli-Shaiil, the residence of his morttil
enemy, David would surely not have fled thither,
3. It appears from the conmientary of Ramban to Genesis
XXXV. distinctly, that this eminent and learned man knew
positively the situation of Ramah, and he places it two
days' journey from the grave of Rachel, which is, how-
ever, but 10 English miles from Gibeah. Cbnsequently
Nachraanidea paid no attention to the various fables which
were no doubt current in his time also on this subject.
It 13, therefore, evident that the alleged grave at Eame
Nebi Smuel, can by no means be the real sepulchre of the
prophet Samuel, since this place is, as I have already
stated alxive, page 12G, the ancient town of Mizpeh, in
the land of Benjamin. This erroneous opinion, however,
had it« origin, as many other similar fallacies, in that
period when the Christians came into Palestine, and ob-
tained the government of it, when the holy moniimentfl
were pulled domi, and others again erected on spots cho-
sen at pleasure ; and then they gave them such arbitrary
names as the fancy of the moment dictated ; through
which means great confusion and false opinions have origi-
nated, and these have, alas ! survived even to our day.
In the same spirit does Rahhi Benjamin, of Tudela, re-
port, that when the Nazarenes took and conquered Ramah
from the Mahomedans, " they found there the grave of the
prophet Samuel, near the Synagogue ; that they then took
him away from here and carried him to Shiloh, where
they reinterred him, and built over his remains a church,
which they called after this prophet." 1 deem it perfectly
useless to prove that this traditional legend is both fabu-
lous and improbable. In order, however, to determine the
proper position of Ramah, i. e. Ramathaira-Zophim, we
will, in the first place, endeavour to ascertain the districts
which Saiil passed over in his journey from Gibeah to
Eamah, where he was anointed king over Israel. We are
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 155
told (1 Sam. ix. 4, 5) : "He passed through Mount
Ephraiin, the land of Shalishah, the land of Shaalim, the
land of Jemini, and came at length to the land of Zuph."
Shalishah TMP^/IS^' As late as Eusebius' time, there was
a town called Beth-Salisa, 15 mill north of Lod. Never-
theless, I believe that I may place the land of Shalishah
with greater accuracy in the valley of the Jordan, the
modem Al Gor ; since, according to the assertion of the
Talmud, Sanhedrin, fol. 12 a, the vicinity of Shalishah
produces and ripens the first and earliest fruit in the
whole land, and this is actually the case at the present
time in Al Gor. The same is said in Tosephtah Shebiith,
chap. 7, and Bereshith Eabbah, chap. 99 ; that the neigh-
bourhood of Jericho ( Al Gor) ripens its fruits first of all.
We also read in Midrash Shemuel to chap, xiii., " Shalishah
is. Beth-Ramtha," and, according to Yerushalmi Shebiith,
chap, vi., Beth-Ramtha is synonymous with Beth-Charim.
So also is it said in Talmud Shabbath, fol. 26^ that from
En-Gedi to Ramtha is found the Balsam shrub (pOD*la3i<)-
The latter place is the same with Beth-Ramtha, which
King Herod called Livias ; it was situated on the north-
eastern shore of the Dead Sea, or beyond Jordan, and
consequently in the valley of this river. This position
appears to me more correct than that of Eusebius.
Shaalim D vJ^B^ seems to me identical with Shual, of
which it is said (1 Sam. xiii. 17, 18) : "And the spoilers
came out of the camp of the Philistines in three compsr
nies ; one company turned unto the way to Ophrah, unto
the land of Shual; and another company turned their
way to Beth-Horon ; and another company turned to the
way of the border that looketh to the valley of Zeboim,
towards the wilderness.'* The first division, accordingly,
took their course northeasterly to Ophra (which see) ;
this lay 5 English miles east of Beth-El, and consequently
Shual must have been in the same vicinity. The second
L
15G GEOGRAFirr OF PALESTINE.
went southwesterly to Beth-Choron (which see), and the
third, southeasterly to the valley of Zeboim. There ore
uncommonly high masses of rock near En-Gedi {see ahove),
on the western shore of the Dead Sea ; from the top of
these one beholds this lake, which has a depth of fifteen
hundred feet, bathing the rocks beneath. These appear
to me to i>e '' the rocks of the wild goat^ " mentioned in 1
Samuel xxiv. 2, and represented as Ijeing near the wilder-
ness of Eu-Gedi. Between them there runs a valley, in
which the ancient Zeboim (Gen. s. 19) may have been
situated, wherefore it is termed the valley of Zeboim, which
town must, however, not be mistaken for the one of the
same name in Benjamin (Neh. si. 34).
Jemini was, as is well known, the patronymic term for
Benjamin, consequently the land of Jemuii means the
territory of this tribe in general. Zuph (from nSlf Zaphoh
"to behold") ia probably applied to the high and elevated
environs of Ramathaim, called thence Zofim " of the
watchmen," because it offered a wide prospect. If we
now pursue Saul on his journey which he took in com-
pany with his young man, we shall have the following
route : From Gibeah (or Kirjath-Jearim or Gibath-Shaiil)
they travelled northward to Lod, which was already in
the land of Ephraim ; from there to Shalishah, in the valley
of Jordan ; thence they timied northward to Shaalim ;
then northwesterly to Jemini ; again to the northern
part of Benjamin, near T^ower Beth-Horon, and thence, at
last, farther to the nortli, till they reached Zuph, i. e. Ra-
mathaim-Zoflm or Ramah.
After I had positively convinced myself, that Ramah
must have been several days' journey from Gibeah, and
that its position must have been to the north of Shechem,
I souf^ht to ascertain whether some traces could not be
now found of this birth and burial-plat'C of Samuel; and I
am pleased to state that I succeeded in quite a satisfactory
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 157
manner. 31 English miles west of the fortification of
Sanur, the Shamir of Judges x. 1, there Ues, on a high
mountain an opposite direction to the valley of Jezreel,
the village Rame, unquestionably the Ramah of Samuel.
It is said in the book of Judith, iv. 6, 7 : " And the high
priest Jehoiakim wrote to the inhabitants of the large
field (or plain) situated opposite to Jezreel, near Dathaim
(or as other .readings have it Bamathaim), to occupy the
(approaches and) passes of the rocks which are on the
sides of the mountains on the way to Jerusalem, through
which the enemy would have to pass into the land of
Judea." There can be no question but that an error has
crept into the translation, and that instead of Dathaim or
Bamathaim, places not otherwise known, we should read
Ramathaim (Zofim) ; for there is no spot where the road
from Galilee to Judea has to pass between mountains
and rocky cliffs but precisely here, and it is likewise oppo-
site to the valley of Jezreel. We have already stated
above that the mountains of Ephraim extend to this val-
ley, and, among other portions, included part of Issachar ;
and so the Judge, Tola, a man of Issachar, lived in Shamir,
in the mountain of Ephraim (Judges x. 1). I also sup-
pose that Ramah, the birth-place of Samuel, who was a
Levite, was one of the Levitical cities belonging to Issachar,
which is called Jarmuth in Joshua xxi. 29, and Ramoth
in 1 Chron. vi. 58. (See Kimchi to 1 Sam. i. 1.)
Another proof that Ramah must have been near She-
chem can be derived from the following passage of 1 Sam.
xix. 22 : " Then went he (Saiil) also to Ramah, and came
to the great well which is in Sechu." My labours to
ascertain the position of the town of Sechu, led me to the
following results: Southeast from Shechem is as yet a
village called Adjar ; not far from it, on the road to Jeru-
salem, is a large well, which is 100 feet in depth, and
called " Jacob's Well/' and it is said of it that at its bottom
I
158 GEOGBAPRT OF PALESTINE.
ia fouud the cupola of a destroyed church. Near it are
the ruins of tlie large Ijuildings which the Empress Helena,
the mother of Constantine, had caused to be erected in
honour of tlie place. It now strikes me that this village
Adjar can be none other than the ancient Sechu, and that
the so-called Jacob's Well is the same great well where Saul
made inquiries concerning the whereabouts of David and
Samuel on his journey to Kamah.
Bezek pra (Judges i. 4), is the modem village Abzik,
5 English miles south of Beth-Shean.
Zelzach piX'^i.' on the boundary of Benjamin (I Sam. i.
2). According to the Talmud it ie identical with Jeru-
salem. To me, however, it appears a compound noun
from 75( shade and flV rock ; and actually there are found
southeast of Jerusalem large masses of rocks, which mark
almost accurately the boundary Ihie of Benjamin. It is
also possible that the name of the village Tseltsia (for
Zelza), situated 3 English miles west of Shiloh, is derived
from the ancient Zelzach,
Arumah riDlIK (Judges ix. 41), is the village Ramin,
2 English miles west of Samaria (compare Zohor Shemini,
fol. 39 b).
Ophrah mSi' (Judges vi. 11), is perhaps the village
Erafa, situated north of the fortification of Sanur, the
modern name probably having arisen by transposing the
letter f and r.
Jeshanah njB" (2 Chron. xiii. 19), is the village Al
Sanin, 2 miles west of Beth-El.
Ephrain pISJ? (ibid.), was situated east of Beth-El, in
the valley of Jordan. According to HieronjTnus, it was
distant 20 mill north of Jerusalem. At present it is un-
known. (See Menachoth, 83 b, and above, Chazor, in Ben-
jamin.)
Birzaith p'n3 (1 Chron. vii. 31), is the village Bir-Sith,
still existing, 2 miles north of Djifni (Ophni) . It must not
1:H£ DIYISIOKS of PALESTINE. 159
surprise us that this town, situated in Ephraim, is also
reckoned to Asher ; because we often find that the posses-
sions of xme tribe encroach on those of the other, which
also is the case with Japhlet mentioned along with Bir-
Sith. (See 1 Chron. vii. 31-33, and Joshua xvi. 3.)
Gath-Rimmon poT jiJ (Joshua xxi. 25, and called
Bileam in 1 Chron. vi. 55) appears to me to be identical
with Hadad-Rimmon in the valley of Megiddo of Zechariah
xii. 11. This Levilical town of the tribe of Menasseh,
situated 2 English miles west of En-Gannim, and south-
east of Legion (Megiddo), in the valley of the latter, the
environs of which extended to Megiddo itself, was called
in the time of the Romans Maximianopolis. At present
it is but the village Kafer Guth. The site of this village
agrees accurately with the description given in the book
of Judith vii. 3, " And they encamped in the valley near
Blema (i. e. Bileam), which is opposite to Jezreel." In
the Talmud it is called Kefar Uthni (see Gitten, fol. 76 a),
and it is said in Bechoroth, 55 a, that *l£)37 tiyifl "IflSD
TD 3"S ♦Jmy " from Kefar Chaninah to Kefar Uthni is
32 mill, and that Zippori (Sephoris) lay between them."
This agrees also exactly with the position of Kafer Guth,
which is near 32 mill, each mill being reckoned as always,
in the Talmud, of eighteen minutes' walk, or about 24
English miles, from Kafer Anan (which see), and Sephuri
is moreover midway between the two.
Abel-Mecholah nSinO h^H (Judges vii. 22), was accord-
ing to Eusebius 16 mill south of Beth-Shean, on the bank
of the Jordan. Perhaps, however, it may be identical
with the present village Methshalon, situated 2 English
miles southeast of the fortress of Sanur.*
* According to Yarchi to Ketuboth, 105 b, the prophet Elisha waa of
the tribe of Gad, consequently his birth-place (Abel-Mecholah), must then
have been east of Jordan, in the land of that tribe. But I can find no
passage which authorized Yarchi to make this assertion.
100 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Zerarah miS (Judges vii. 22, and Zorethan |i"nv in 1
Kings vii. 46), although not known at present, must still
have been, to judge from the passages cited, aouth of Beth-
Shean, opposite the ruins of Sukkoth, which ace situated
on the east side' of Jordan.
Of the places belonging to the sons of Joseph mentioned
in the Talniudic writings, we will notice the following:
Akrabbah HDIpJ?. See farther down, at the end of
this chapter.
Assiri H'DX (Tosephtah Mikvaoth, chap, iv.), probably
the village Assiri, situated in a southern direction, opposite
to the vUlage Djeba (i. e. Geba, which, however, is an
arbitrary name, having neither BibUcal nor Talmudical
origin), 5 EngUsh miles north of Shechera.
Kefar Nimrah niDJ 153 (Midraah Echa, 72 a) is the
village Bir Namar, 2 English miles southwest from the just-
named Djeba.
Yathmah T}QiV (Orlah, chap. ii. 5), is the present village
Yatlimah, 5 English miles south of Chavara, i. e. Beth-
Horon,
Bedan p3 (ibid. iii. 7, Kelaim, xvii. 5; Yerushalmi
Demai, iii.) Northeast of Shechem there is a valley, which
is known as Wady Al Badan.
Perech y^Q (ibid.) That part of the just-named valley
which extends to the southeast close to the Jordan, is now
called Wady al Farchi. Jos., Bell. Jud., book ii. chap, xxi.,
mentions a Capharecho, probably the Perech in question.
The Valley of the Spring Socher -|31D f '^^ H^p^ (Menar
choth, fol. 04 h). Between SaUn, i. e. Shalem, and the
village Abulnita, famous for possessing the grave of
Joseph, lies the village Askar, where the sprmg En-Askar
rises. Here commences a fruitful plain, opening towards
the east, and extending to the Jordan, which appears to
me to be the plain or valley in question. The spring,
which gives it the name, is also called, in Yerushalmi
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 161
Abodah Zarah, chap, v., En Kushith ri^B^13 ^^y "the
spring of the Moors." I have abready mentioned, when
speaking of Ramah, that the well of Jacob is considered
holy by the Christians. I therefore also believe that
idolatry may have fixed its abode near the spring of Askar,
to which, probably, the contemptuous name also refers.
In Bereshith Rabbah, chap. 98, it is said h^D D*DS!^ r\313
/J^DDS!^ rmsrK ir, 'which passage no commentator has as
yet been fortimate enough to decipher. But I believe that
reference is, here made to the Valley of Socher, since 7)^3
in the Talmudic dialect stands for 'IIJI^^D il^p^ " plain, or
valley" (see 2 Chron. xxvi. 7) ; and as this vicinity, which
belonged to Joseph, is exceedingly blessed and fruitful, it
may be assumed that Jacob, in blessing him, had reference
to this valley, — ^therefore " the blessing of heaven above
means Askar in the plain;" so that JinDtK stands for
iinODK "the springs of Askar."
Kefar Dichrin |n3n n3D (Gittin, fol. 57 6). This con-
siderable end large town is, besides the passage cited, often
referred to in Talmud and Midrashim. It was situated on
Mount Ephraim, the Tur Malkah, " King's Mountaiiji" of
the Babbis. At the time of Astori there was a vestige
of it remaining in the village Dachran, situated a few miles
north of Iiod, in the mountains ; at present, however, it is
unknown. It might be beUeved that it was identical with
the town Beth-Zecharias, often mentioned by Josephus, as
both have the same signification, only that it appears from
several passages of this author, that Beth-Zecharias was
not as far north, but more to the south, in the part oi
Judah ; which circumstance induced me to state already
that I suppose Beth-Zecharias to be the present Beth-
Sachur, not far from Beth-Lehem. (See Jos., Bell. Jud.^
book i., chap, i.)
In the bodk of Jashar to Gen. xxxiv., speaking of the
wars of the sons of Jacob, the following names occur :
11
»
162 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE:.
Chasar IDr?) probably Chazor iu Benjamm (Neh. xi. 33) .
Sartan JD1D- Here prevails, without doubt, an error in
the transcriber, and it should read Sartaf, this name being
applied to the town because it lay near the Mount Sartaf,
situated 5 English miles west from the Jordan.
Arbelio vb^lN- " And they heard tliat the men of Ar-
beho bad gone out to them," By this name cannot by any
means lje meant the town of Arbel, in the land of Naph-
tali ; for this place was situated near Chinnereth, and was,
therefore, too far out of the way for the pons of Jacob ; and
it is of their then sojourn of which the book of Jaahar
speaks in the passage referred to. But probably it should
read Archelio vSdIN, with 3 instead of 3 ; and reference
is had, no doubt, to the toivu of Archelais, which, ss
Josephus relates (Ant., book svii. 13), was a day's journey
from Jericho. The assertion of tliis historian, that Arche-
laus, the son of Herud the Great, was the builder of this
city, may be esplauied to mean that the king in question
improved materially this very ancient city of Archil, having
some resemblance to his own name, and, so to say, had it
completely restored. (See also Rimmon iu Zobulun.)
Etliiinim D'JPN appears to me should read Machanaim
(compare vrith Yalkut). This was on the east side of
Jordan, and was opposite to where the sous of Jacob were
at the time.
Shiloh, Gaash, Beth-Choron, Tappuach, and Har Sion,
have been described in their proper places.
Castra miDDp- In Echa Rabbethi, chap. i. 17, "Castra
and Cheipha were perpetual enemies;" iu Midrash Samuel,
chap, xvi., is Kazra, wliich is an erroneous reading, and
should bo Castra. Compare with Baba Kamma, fol. 98 «,
"in Castra," or on "the King's Mount." The place now
called Chirbath (ruins of) Athlot, situated at the foot of
Carmel, on the sea-coast, north of Dardura, and south of
Cheipha, was formerly called Caatrum Peregriuorum. I
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 168
have no doubt that this is the place referred to in the
above quotations. Astori did not know of this Gastrum,
and therefe)re corrected Castra into Caasarea, which, as will
be seen, was by no means necessary.
Taba JOKD, stated in 1 Mace. ix. 50 to be in the vicinity
of Beth-El and Jericho, is no doubt the village Taibi, which
is 7 English miles west of Nama (Naarah),.and situated on
the highest point of the mountains of that neighbourhood.
Between it and Nama flows the stream Duga (Fish River;
compare with Ezek. xlvii. 9) . Here, therefore, seems to
have been situated the village Dagun, of which Josephus
speaks in his Bell. Jud., book i. chap. i.
Maabartha KmDJ^O (see Yerushalmi Taanith, chap, iv) .
According to the account of Josephus (Bell. Jud., book v.
chap, iv.), Neapolis or Shechem was also called Maabartha.
A BRIEP REVIEW OF THE POSSESSIONS OF MENASSEH, AND OF THE
SONS OF JOSEPH IN GENERAL.
The most northeasterly point of Menasseh extended to
Beth-Shean, situated on the borders of Issachar ; but the
northwest boimdary touched Mount Carmel, which itself
belonged to Asher. This will explain the meaning of
Joshua xvii. 10, &c., "And they met with Asher on the
north, and with Issachar on the east. And Menasseh
had in Issachar and Asher Beth-Shean and its villages,
and Jibleam and its villages," &c. To the southeast the
line ran up to Tappuach (to the east of Shechem — see the
31 Kings), and to the southwest to the river Kanah, south
of Caesarea; so that Menasseh was situated north of
Ephraim. If we now contemplate carefully the posses-
sions of the sons of Joseph, we shall see that it had two
prominently protruding points, to wit, to the northeast
and northwest — so to say, in the form of two horns, be-
tween the points of which Issachar stood. Perhaps Moses
alluded to this conformation of their territory when he
164
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
blessed Joseph, and said (Deut. xxxiii. 17), "And his
horns are as the horns of the rcem," i. e. the wild ox. Jo-
sephuB relates that the possessions of Menasseh extended
from the Jordan to the Great Sea near Dor.
The territory of Issochar, which was enclosed on three
sides by Menasseh (to which probably Jacob's prophecy,
" Issachar is a strong-boned ass, couching between the
stables," Gen. xiix. 14), extended on the east to the Jordan,
near the soutliern sliore of Lake Chinnereth, and on the
north to Mount Tatwr ; from here the boundary ran over
Kesulloth and Abe/,, to the vicinity of Mount Carmel, and
the southern extreme appears to me to have been Kemeth,
i. e. Ramathaim-Zofim, in Mount Epbraim. To this tribe
belonged the whole of the plain of Jezreel, Josephus states
that the possessions of Issachar extended from Jordan to
Mount Carrael.
The towns of Issachar were the following :
Jezreel 7Ni^1P, no doubt the \'illage SeraJn, which is 3
English miles north of En-Gannin (Djinin). The name
of Serain has undoubtedly been put for Serail, abbreviated
for Jezreel ; and the change of ii for I is nothing uncommon ;
as Beth-El becomes Beth-en or Beit-un, and Beth-rtjibrin
is also called Beth-Djibril, About 1 mile east from here is
a mount called Djebl Djulud,* from which descends an un-
• This enables ino to expound an extremely obscure passage in the
Bible (Judges vii. 3), which no commentator hns hitherto bwn able to
elacid&tQ ; '" Now therefore go to, proclaim in the bearing of the people,
saying. Whosoever is fearful and afraid, let him return and depart early
from Mount tlilead." It appears almost like a riddle to decipher, Iiow
thoy should depart from Mount Oilead, which is on the east aide of Jor-
dan, whereas, the eamp of the Israelites was in the valley of Jeereel, at ft
very groat distance fVom the said mountain, with which it stood in no
connexion whatever. Dot there can be no doubt, that the Mount Oilead
referred to, is the Djebl Djulud, and that only a false prononeiation has
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 165
named rivulet, which runs southerly, in the direction of the
mountains of Gilboa. Near Serain commences the valley
obtained, putting Djulnd for Djilead, i. e. Gilead. The riyalet which
descends from it, is also doubtless the stream mentioned (ibid. y. 45),
where the people were mustered^ and it was likewise near this mosnt
where the battle of Gideon took place. The learned Astori says in his
work, fol. 67 6 : '^ To the east of Jezreel, as far as a horse can run (a
stadium), is a spring, near which the Israelites encamped in the (last)
war, under Saul: It rises south of Mount Gilboa, and is called En Djilud.
The Arabs saj^ that there also took place the fight between David and
the giant Goliath ; but herein they are mistaken." This was probably
merely an incorrect tradition, and an exchange of Goliath for Gilead,
The author went carelessly over the ground without noticing whether this
traditional name Djilud or Goliath was of any importance or not, or whether
also the name of the mountain Djebl Djulud had in it a trace of the former
Gilead. Still, all this proves that there was a Mount Gilead likewise on
the west side of Jordan.
. Whilst on the subject, I will explain another obscure passage, to wit,
1 Kin^ xxi. 19 : ^^ On the spot where the dogs have licked up the blood
of Naboth, shall the dogs lick up thy blood also." Again it says (ibid,
xxii. 38) : '^ And they washed out the chariot in the pool of Samaria, and
the dogs licked up his blood." Naboth was stoned to death in Jezreel,
and still it is said, as if in fulfilment of the prophecy, that Ahab's blood
was licked up in Samaria ; how was this ? Kimchi, it is true, notices thiB
difficulty ; but believes that the water of this pool ran to Jezreel, where
the dogs licked it up, dyed as it was with the blood of the deceased king.
But whoever knows the relative positions, and the nature of the country
of Samaria and Jezreel, will easily understand the impossibility of taking
Kimchi's opinion as at all solving the difficulty ; for Sebaste is more than
16 miles from Sarain, and then it is not to be supposed that the water
should run upward from the former to the latter place, from a low to a
high level. It therefore will appear evident that the word DipD2 trans-
lated " on the spot," should not be thus rendered, but with " in place of,"
"in punishment for, — the dogs having licked. up the blood of Naboth,
they shall lick thy blood also." We also find in Hosea ii. 1, DipDD H'Tll
" And it shall come to pass that instead of people's saying of them," &o.
The difficulty in question is thus entirely removed, although it is quite
surprising that all translators have failed in understanding, and all have
mistranslated this passage. It will therefore be seen what interest and
benefit a correct geography of Palestine must have for a true exposition
of Holy Writ.
166
GEOGIUPnr OF PALESTINE.
of Jezrcel, named now Merdj Abn Amer. The Greeks
called Jezreel " Esdrcia," whence the plain was named
Eadrelon.
KesuUoth ni7DD, is the village Aksal, 2i English miles
west from Mount Tabnr.
Shunem DJtl' is no doubt the village Sulim (again ex-
changing the 1 for n), 2i English miles m a direct northern
line distant from Saraiii. At the time of Astori they yet
professed to know the site of the house of the respectable
woman who entertained EHsha so hospitably, (2 Kings
iv. 8.)
Chapharaim D'lflri- Eusebius and Hieronymus speak
of the village Aframa, i. e. Chapharaim, about 5 mill north
from Legion (Megiddo) ; but at present it is unknown.
Shion y\H*lif is probably identical with the modem vil-
lage Sain, situated between Dcburi^Daberath, and Jafa,
i. e. Japhia (Joshua xix. 12).
Harabbith n*3^n- There is, 3 English miles west from
Beth-Shean, a village called Anilnmi, in which I find a
trace of the ancient Harabbith. Hieronj-mns says : " 3
mill west from Both-Sheau, is the village Eraba," which I
suppose to be the present Arubuni. Bereshith Kabbah,
chap. 33, probably alludes to the same place when speak-
ing of the town of Arabi in the vicinity of Beth-Shean.
Kishion fVB'p. Astori writes, fol. 67 b, "2i miles south
from Aksal is Kishion, near which the river (Kishon) has
its source." At the present day the Arabs call the village
near which the sources of Kishon are, and which is to the
southwest of Talwr, " Sbeich Abrik," i. e. chief Barak, in
allusion to Barak, son of Abinoam (Judges iv. 6), because
he overcame on the banks of this stream the anny of
Sisera. Not far from this village is the village Muzr ; it
appears, therefore from the statement of Astori, that
Sheich Abrik is the ancient Kishion. In 1 Chronicles vi.
37, among the Levitical cities, it is called Kedesh.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 167
Abez Y^H is probably the village Kunebiz, also called
Karm En Abiz, which lies 3 English miles west-southwest
from Aksal.
Remeth r)D% See Ramathaim-Zofim.
En-Gannin D*JJ ]^y- This is the present large village
Djinin, about 20 English miles north from Nablus, on the
road from the latter place to Tiberias. In its vicinity is
a small stream, called En-Djinin. (See also second chap-
ter, article Ginai.) In 1 Chronicles vi. 58, this town,
one of the Levitical cities, is called Anem Qijf equal to
Annim D*jy. This shows the transmutation of y Ayin
into J Gimel, as in Arabic the Gayin is put for Ayin.
Tabor ^IDfi- i^osephus relates that in his time there
was a town with a fort on Mount Tabor, which probably
had the same name as the mount itself. The present
ruins on it are the remains of a church* built by the Em-
press Helena. .
Beth-Shemesh tffQtt^ n*3 i. e. house of the sim; I pre-
sume this to be identical with the small village Kaukab
al Chama " the star* of the sun," which is 3 English miles
north from Beth-Shean, and near the Jordan. Astori re-
lates, " Beth-Shemesh, of Issachar, is south of Zippori
(Sefiiri), and is called Shumshi;" but I believe that, more
correctly speaking, this Beth-Shemesh, near Sefuri, be-
longed to Naphtali (Joshua xix. 38), and not to Issachar.
THERE BELONGED FARTHER TQ THE PORTION OF ISSACHAR
Daberath niyi (Joshua xxi. 28) ; this is the village
Diburi, li English miles west from Tabor. This town
was also reckoned as belonging to Zebulun (ibid. xix. 12),
which proves that the boimdary lines of both tribes passed
* This will explain for us an obscure passage in Pesiktah Rablbethi,
chap. 16: nDDO p '« n*'i nx '^rht^Vf "I asked the Rabbi — one from
Kochabah/' 'which I hold to refer to some learned man from the city of
Kochabah, probably the present Kaukab al Chama.
168 GEOGRAFirr OF PALESTINE.
near it, wherefore it is often viewed as belonging to both.
Ill the Life of Josephus it is called Dabarith.
Meron pKIO. (See description of the 31 Kings.)
Beth-Eked Ipj? iT3 (2 Kiiiga x. 12). Eusebius says:
" 15 mill from Legion (Megiddo), in the plain of Eedrelon,
may still lie seen the ruins of this towiij" but at present
it is quite unknown,
Aphek pax (1 Kings xx. 26) is probably the modem
village of Fukua, 2 English miles east firom Djinin. (See
also description of the 31 Kings.)
Dothan rr>n (Gen. xxsviii. 17) is the village Dutha, 6
English miles south from Djinin; near it is shown the pit
in which Joseph was cast before being sold by his brothers.
Meroz HIO (Judges v. 23), probably the village Mera-
sas, 2i English miles northwest from Beth-Shean. (See
also Mareaheth in first chapter, page 36.)
Beth-Hashitta n£3B*n n*3 (Judges vii. 22), is probably
the little village Shitta, 1 mill west from Djebl Duhu, i. e.
the little Hermon.
NAMES OF PLACES IN THE PORTION OP ISSACHAE OOCURRING IN THE
TALMUDIC WKITINQ8.
Eu-Tob 31D yy (Pesiktah Rabbethi, chap. 41 ; Talmud
Rosh llashanah, fol. 25 a), is the village Un al Taibe,
which is between Tabor and Beth-fihean, Near this is
the rivulet Wady Tiibeni, i. e. En Tob, the spring Tob,
which descends from the mountain of Gilboa. I believe
that the oft-mentioned Tibaon pi?3Q (Machshirin, chap.
1 ; Talmud Megillah, 24 I) was identical with En-Tob,
and that the change of appellation arose from a mere
transposition of the syllables. In Pesachim, fol. 53 a, are
spoken of 'J31D1 'JTIN a species of dates, from the vici-
nity of Tuheoii*
* I cannot again avoid to refute tlie view of a modern writ<;r. I have
ttad in the prefaoe of a medical work, composed in the Hebrew language
PV*? KDiS "The Foople's Physician," where the author quotes a passage
THE DIVISIOKS OF PALESTINE. 169
Serunia K*J1^D (see Yemshalmi, end of Kilaim ; Bere-
shith Kabbah, chap. i. ; Zohar Tazria ; also called m Ye-
rushalmi Sanhedrin, chap, vii., Beth-Shirian [♦n^B^ !V2)
is no doubt the small village Sinn, situated on a mount
between Tiberias and Beth-Shean, 2 English miles north-
west from the Jordan bridge Midshama. At the foot of
the moimt, is the valley Sarane. (See second chapter,
article Valley of Jezreel.)
Neiirin [Hiyj (Chulin, fol. 5 a), is the village Nuris,
about 2 English miles southeast from Serain. The Naaran
of 1 Chron. vii. 28, is not to be mistaken for this, for it is
the same as Naarah of Joshua xvi. 7, and is the present
Naami.
Kapra mfl3 ( Yerushalmi Megillah, chap. i. ; Yemshalmi
Shekalim, chap, v.), is the village Kaparah, situated 5
English miles southeast from Mount Tabor. Astori took
this place for Chafaraim (which see) ; but this view appears
to me incorrect.
Naim D*yj (Bereshith Rabbah to (Jen. xlix. 15), is the
village Nain, 1 English mile southwest from En-Dor.
Thineam OJfiH of the same passage, is the village Thenna,
li English miles northeast fix)m Um al Taibe.
Pislctti [17D|J, the valley of Pislon of the same passage.
Between the Little Hermon and thq mountains of Gilboa
from Nidda, fol. 22 b, in the following words : ^' Babbi Elazar^ son of
Zadok said, My father brought two cases from Tibeon to Jabne, &c. ; the
people asked my father, he asked the wise men, and they asked the phy-
sicians," kc.y — ^that he understands by Tibeon nothing else than Thebes,
in Greece, and that hence our wise men obtained their medical knowledge
from that country, since they sent their medical problems (ni^KBr) to
Thebes for solution. This notion rests upon the erroneous mistaking
Tibeon in Palestine for Thebes hi, Greece ; since it appears clearly from
Erubin, 29 a, that the city in question was near Ardiska, and it can be
proved positively from Tosephtah Terumoth, chap, ii., that the latter was
unquestionably in Palestine ; consequently the author has no proof what-
ever, that our wise men obtained their medical knowledge from Greeoe^
170 GEOGRAFiry OF PALESTINE.
is a small valley, at the end of which, in the vicinity of
the Jordan, ia the village Phasal, in which I believe to
discover a trace of the ancient Pislon, after which this
valley is named.
Kefar Barkai »Kp13 "ifia (Pesachim, 57 a, also end Keri-
thoth) , is the village Barkin, 2 miles west from Djinin, and
is also prohably the Barkeas mentioned by Josephus (Bell.
Jud., book iii., chap, iv.)
Kefar Thamartha Nn"TDn 133 (Megillah, 16 a), is the
village Thamra, 1 J English miles east from En-Dor.
Ulam D7IM (Siphri to Balak ; Yeruahabm Sauhedrin,
chap. X.; Yerushalmi Shebiith, chap, vii.), is the village
Ulama, 1 mile north from Sirin, (See 2d chapter, under
this name.)
Gebul Sis: (Kethuboth, 112 «; Yerushalmi Challah,
chap, iii.), is the village Jebul, 3 English miles northeast
from Beth-Shean, and is probably identical with the town
of Gabala, in Lower Galilee, which was built by Herod, as
reported hy JOsephus, Autiq., book xv., chap. ii.
Although the boundary line of this tribe ia described in
Holy Writ, I found it, nevertheless, difficult to ascertain
it with accuracy, because, despite of all my efforts and in-
vestigations, I could not discover the greater part of the
names mentioned in the Scriptures when describing them.
I mention only as many of the towns as I could ascertain,
and will afterwards seek to determine the principal points
of the boundary.
Jokneam oyjp'- See ^bove, in the description of the
31 Kings.
Kisloth-Tabor and Daberath n"l3T Tian fl^DD. liave
already been described in Issachar. (See above, p. 167.)
Japhia i?'fl' is" the village Jafa, situated 2 EngUsb miles
northwest from Aksal.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 171
Gath Chepher ^ifin jiJ- See above, in the 31 Kings?
p. 89.
Rimmon po*l is the village Ruinan6, about 3 English
miles northeast from Safiiri. According to my view, this
place is identical with the Levitical town Dimnah, described
in Joshua xxi. 35 as belonging to Zebulun, the *i Resh being
exchanged with 1 Daleth, from a similarily of the form —
a procedure not unusuiil in other names, as 7K1J^l and
Sxijn? Deiiel and Reiiel (Num. i. 15, and ii. 14). In
proof of this supposition being correct, we find this same
town called, in 1 Chron. vi. 62, Rimmono IJIDT ; wherefore
I think that nJDI Dimnah is equal to njDT Rimnah, and
the vowels are changed to suit the new conformation of
the word. About* 2 English miles west from, this village,
and 1 English mile north from Safrui, are found the ruins
of Rumi. In respect to this I have to observe, that we
read in the commentary of Moses Alshech to Shir Hashi-
rim, cap. vii., v. 6, " Even at this day there is found, near
Zippori, a town called Romi, where the Emperor Antoninus
sojourned, and gave it this name, after his own capital in
Italy." I believe that these ruins of Rumi occupy the site
of the somewhat late town Romi; and it is also possible
that its name was also derived ii^ part from Rimmon, in
the vicinity of which it was erected, and was thus, so to
say, a second Rimmon, and had in this manner a double
signification, and gives us, at the same time, a vestige of
the ancient Rimmon.* (See also the description of the
cities of the sons of Joseph, article Archelio, which is
mentioned in the Sepher Hajashar.)
* Several learned men have therefore adopted the opinion that the city
Bomi, so often mentioned in Talmud and Midrashim, does not alwa3rB
mean Rome in Italy, but the then newly built up Romi in Palestine, since
it was several times the place of sojourn of several Roman emperors.
This view would explain, indeed, several obscure passages in the Talmud;
but it cannot be always taken as correct, which is proved by a passage in
172 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Kattath, Nahalal, Shimron, and Yjdalah hhm ntSp
n7«T plOty canuot be traced any more in the modem
names of the country. But fortunately I found an explor
nation of these names in Yerushalmi Megillah, chap, i.,
where it says that Kattath is the modem Katimith, Nahalal
the modem Mahalul, Shimron is Simunii, and Yidalah is
Cliirii ; and I was enabled to find out all these plates.
Kattath or Katunith. (End of Sota is mentioned Rabbi
Jose Katnutha, so called, probably, fix)m being a native of
this place ; as we also find him described in Tosephtah
Sota, 15, !is R. Jose, Bon of Katnuth, a native of Ketuntha
or Katunith.) By closely investigating the matter, I found
that the town of Kana is called, in. the Chaldean, Katna,
which has the same signification with Katunith. Now, 1
English mile northeast from Rumani is tlie village Kaua
el Djelil, i. e. Kana of Galilee, to be distinguished from a
town of the same name near Tyre. This proves to my
mind that it is the Kattath of the Bible.
Nahalal or Mahalul (see also Yerushalmi Maasser Sheni,
chap, v.), is no doubt the modem village Malul, 2 English
miles southeast from Semlinie.
Shimron or Simunii (see also Beresliith Rabbah, 81) is
the village Semunie, situated 3 English miles southwest
from Sefuri. It is also probably identical with the Sim-
miada mentioned in the Life of Josepbus.
Yidalah or Chirii, no doubt the village Kellah al Chire,
6 English miles southwest from Semunii,
Bcth-Lehem DnS n'3 is the village of that name, about
7 English miles south from Shaf-Amer, and the same dis-
tance west from the village Nazara (Nazareth). All the
Yerushalmi Horiyoth, chap, iii., from which it clcarlj appears that Romi
there apokon of, uiicl whit^h occurs in a narrative mentioned atso in Talmud
Babli, Gittin, fol. 58, anU whicli is taken by many Bcholare for Romi in
F&lcstine, must have been beyond the confines of the Holy Land, and,
congequently, Rome proper, iu Italy.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE, 173
villages near Nazara, are for the most part inhabited by
Christians; who point out there to the traveller, many
relics and antiquities.
THERE BELONQEB ALSO TO ZEBULUN
Kitron pntDp (Judges i. 30). The Talmud Megillah,
fol. 6 a, says, " Kitix)n is Zippori," which is the village Se-
furi, situated on a mount 7 English miles southeast from
Shafamer. According to Echa Kabbethi to chap. ii. 2,
there is a distance of 18 mill, i. e. 13 i English miles, from
Tiberias to Zippori. In the Gr»co-Eoman period, it was
called Dicepolis (see Jos., Bell. Jud., b. iii. chap, iii.*)
Madon piQ. See above, in the account of the 31
Kings, where I maintain that Madon is the present Kefar
Manda. In Shemoth Kabbah, chap. Iii., the name of
Madon is still retained; but otherwise we find nearly
everywhere either Manda or Mandon. So in Vayikra
Rabbethi, chap, i., is mentioned Rabbi Issachar, of Kefar
Manda j and the people there show to this day the grave
of this worthy Rabbi. In Tosephtah Yabamoth, chap, x.,
the name of Mandon is applied to the place. All this
proves that Madon, Manda, and Mandon, are synonymous.
It is about 5 English miles north of Sefuri and 4 English
miles northwest of Rimuni.
In Talmud and Midrashim^^ the following places are
mentioned : —
In YaJkut to Genesis xlix. 13, it is said that the towns
in which the great Sanhedrin* had their seat, after the de-
struction of Jerusalem, were nearly all, with the excep-
tion of Jabne, in the portion of Zebulun, to wit : Usha
^ In Taanith, fol. 24 h, it is said '' There came so heavy a rain that tl^
water from the roof-gutters of the town of Zippori flowed into the Di-
gluth=Chidekel or Tigris." This is evidently an erroneous reading, and
should be Mechusah, which was in babylonia, not far from the Tigris. I
found this name introduced in the old editions, which is thus incorrectly
given in the modem ones as Zippori.
174
GEOGKAPITY OF PALESTINE.
I
KB'IN; Shafram d;?"1SE' ; Beth-Shearim onyc fl'S. Zip-
pori niflVj and Tiberias KH^D- The situation of these
places was as follows :
Usha, which is also mentioned in Tosephtah Mikvabth,
chap, vi., is the village Usa, situated G English miles
west-northwest from Feralthi ; for which, see under Naph-
tali.
Shafram is the modern large village Shafhmer (derived
from the original name by transposing m and )■) , situated
7 English miles east from Chepha, and west of Manda.
In this village live about thirty Jewish families, who have
an old Synagogue. Between this and Usa, is the grave of
the martjT Rabbi Jehudah ben Baba, who was slain there,
aa appears from Talmud Aliodah Zarah, fol. 8 ft.
Beth-Shearim is no doubt the modern village Turan
(^ to the Chaldean Nipn Taara, which is the Hebrew
Ti^tl' " Shaar" gate), 5 English miles east-nortlieast from
Sifuri. Astori calls the place Ashara; but this name is
no longer in use. It is probable that pm Turan, which
is mentioned in Talmud Sabbath, 1'20 b, means no other
than Beth-Shearim, as it was then called.
Zippori. See above, article Kitron.
Tiberias. See farther down, where I shall speak more
at length of thia town.
In Bereshith Rabbali to Genesis xlix. 13, it ia said,
" ' And hia border shall be unto Zidon,' means Zebnd, of
GaUlee, according to one authority, and Bigdal Riv, ac-
cording to the other." The first nb'Sjl TI3f ia undoubt^
cdly the modem village Sibdia, situated 5 English miles
northeast from Sur (Tyre), since Upper Galilee extended,
as already said in the description of Galilee, to the vicinity
of Tyre. Aa to Bigdal Riv ( VI SnJS), it is extremely diffi-
cult and obscure of elucidation ; but I have no doubt that
here again is an error of the transcriber to be con-ected,
and that for VI 7lJ3 we should read 'IT h'^yo Migdal
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 175
(or Tower of) Revi, and signifies the modem village Bur^j
al Rui, i. e. fort or tower of Rui, situated on the sea-
coast between Zidon and Ras Zarfand (see articlo Zare-
phath). This would ^ve us the result that Zebulun ex-
tended to the northeast of Tyre and the south of Zidon.
Old Kazerah, near Zippori, maif hl£f njtt" ri'y^p of
Erechin, ch. ix. § 6 ; it was, according to Yerushalmi Eru-
bin, chap, v., scarcely 70 cubits from Beth-Maun. It is
true that at present the name of Kazerah is no longer in use ;
but its former site is readily ascertuiued ; since tlie grave
of the renowned martyr Rabbi Akiba, as is generally well
known, was at Kazerah, as I have already stated above, in
a note to Gibthan, and it is pointed out, about 2 English
miles northwest from Tiberias, on the mountains between
Medjdl and Kallath Abn Jliun.* In Midrash Samuel,
■ TLo meaning of tho word Kazerah I bolievo to be tbe name as that
of nioop or mooj ; since thia town is called in Talmud Bab. Shabbath,
121 a, "iiilY Suf niOD] Onaterah of Zippori, wheroas inYeniBhalmi Sbub-
bath, chap, xvi,, yerushalini Nodarim, ohup. v., and Ycrusbalnii, end of
Yoma, it is uniformly termed Kuerah of Zippori. Tba proper meaning of
Kazerah, tiaaterah, Kasteroh, is, acuording to Aaabi, to the above passage
of Shabbath [loSw, prefect, superintendent, overseer, or manager. In
Latin, the word Castrum means a camp, a place where soldiers stay over
night, or take up their temporatj abode ; (and thia term in various ebanges
or abbreviationa has become incorporated in various modem names of
towns, as Lancaster, Chester, Doneaster, Wiaeheater, &c. — Tb.) The
Romans built a fortified camp for their soldiers near Zippori ; and as
there was already a t«wn in the neighbourhood, this waa called the Old,
whilst the modem erection became known as the New Kaierah, Crast«ra,
or Castrerah, of Zippori, the chaoge in the pronunciation being merely
required to make the Roman word appear in the usual Hebrew dress. It
appears to mo that the town mentioned in Kiddnshin, 76 a, as ^v njirn
">lf)X Hayeshanah, i. e. the Old of Zippori, means no other than our
Kazerah, although Boshi considered it as a proper name, which is incor^
rect, because the definite article n is never applied to proper names as
such, and besides this, the name in question does not oo<nir in this locality.
There is a town Jeshcna mentioned in 2 Chron. xiii. 19 ; but it was not
in Galilee, but near Beth-El, and is the modem AI Sania. (See the
cities of the sons of Joseph.)
176 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
chap, xxvi., is mentioned Rabbi Isaac ben Kazeartha; and
tlie prol)ability is that his father was from Kazerah.
Shichin prTK' was, according to Sabbath, 121 a, near ZJp-
pori, and was an uncommonly large and important city,
aa appears from Echa Rabbethi to chap. ii. 2 ; at a later
period, that is, after the destruction of Jerusalem, it also
was reduced to a mere unimportant village, and is hence
called Kefar Shichin in Sabbath, 150 h, and in end of Yeba-
moth it apjjears as Kefar Shichi. Josephus, in Bell. Jud.,
b. ii. chap, sxv., mentioned Soganes near Sephoris, which
iu without doubt the Shichin of the Talmud. I am almost
led to believe that it is identical with the Sochoh of 1
Kings iv. 10, which was gradually changed into Shichin,
Guftha or Gubabtha NfiDDlJ NnfllJ is mentioned in
Yerushalmi Megillah, chap, i., where we read of Rabbi
Jonathan, secretary of the town of Guftha ; also in Yeru-
shalmi Shekalim, chap. vii. In Talmud Babli Erubin,
64 b, it is called Gufthi, It would appear, from Midrash
Koheleth to chap. svi. 10, that this place was 3 mill, or
2i English miles, from Zippori;* but at present I could
discover no trace of it.
The Old Jodephath nJCH riinV of Erechin, chap. ix.
§ 6, was an uncommonly strongly fortified town, and was
situated near the modern Jafa, the Japhia of the Bible ;
Josephus defended it (Jotapata) long against the Romans,
as he has circumstantially narrated in the third book of
the Wars of the Jews. I believe we discover a resemblance
* I believe that this will elucidate a pasBage in Beroshilh Rabb»b to Gen,
xlix. 13, where aome remarks are made concerning the birth-place of the
prophet Jimah. and it ia asserted of Gath-Chepher masT Kn^au ]-Hm that
it is Gubabtha of Zippori. The commentators seem at fault to explain
the meaning of this pasRage ; but it strikes me that it is probable that our
Gufthi and Gath-ChcfRf were the names of tho same town, as it is clear
that both refer to a place near Zippori. It is therefore probable that the
modem Meghad (see in the 31 Kings, art. Chcphcr), must be the sit« of
the lowQ in question.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 177
to this name in the modem village Djepatha or Depatha^
which is about 1 i English miles south of Jafa. I must at
the same time notice an opinion common among our people,
though erroneous, in their calling the castle near Zafed,
Jorephah, which is, by the by, also an erroneous spelling
of the word, since they exchange the D with R, and there
can be no doubt that the real name should be Jodephath ;
since it appears from the passage just cited from Josephus,
that Jotapata or Jotapha was by no means in the vicinity
of Zafed. The Rabbi Menachem Jodephaah of Zebachim,
1106, dqrived his name probably from this place.
Maiin pj;o of Zebachim, 118 ft. In Tosephtaha Shebiith,
chap, vii., it is said that Maun is in Lower Galilee. In the
Life of Josephus, § 12, is mentioned Beth-Maus, as being
4 stadia {i English mile) from Tiberias. The same is
asserted by Astori, and he found the place still inhabited
when he visited it. The present Kallath Aben Miun,
which is west of Medjdl, at a distance of about 1 English
mile, does not, a<;cordiiig to my view, occupy the exact
site of Maun, as it is too far to the northwest. I cannot
here avoid to notice the opinion of the learned Astori, who
endeavours to prove in his work, fol. 66 ft, that this Maiin
is the same Maftn whither David fled before Saul (1 Sam.
xxiii. 25). As David did not enter Galilee in his wander-
ings, it is not necessary to employ any arguments to dis-
prove Astori's opinion; but I may surely express my
astonishment that one so learned should commit such an
error.
Kefar Shubethi ♦flDW IM of Bereshith Kabbah, chap.
Ixxxv., is the modern village Kefr Sabth, situated on a
mountain, 5 English miles southwest from Tiberias.
Jlebitha Nf1*3T of Chulin, 60 a, is probably the village
Rabuthia, situated at a distance of 3 English miles from
the northwestern shore of Lake Chinnereth, which receives,
12
178
GEOGHAPHT OF PALESTINE.
to the north of MedjdJ, the Wady Rabuthia, which has
its source iu the environs of Feradi iind Kefr Anan.
Seuabrai 'J<13JD of Yerushalmi Megillah, i. (R. Levi of
Senabra, Yerushalmi Shebiitli, is.), is the Sennabris men-
tioned in Josephus, Bell. Jud., h. iii., chap, ix., as being 30
stadia, or about 4 English miles, south of Tiberias. Even
at the present day there are found in this vicinity traces
of ruins called by the Arabs Sinabri.
Amos DlOy (Koheleth Rabbethi, fol. 106 6). Josephus
speaks of Emaus in Galilee, not far from the hot spring of
Tiberias ; but it is at present unknown. (See farther,
art. J-IDH-)
Hatulim or Chatlim D'7C3n TllI^.T nOIJ • D'710n (of
Menachoth, 80 i), is the modem villaj^e Al Chatli, east
from Mount Tabor, and not far from the river Jordan.
The town of Laban (the White Town), in the moun-
tain irQ p7 Ty, of Menachoth, 8G h. I have ascertained
from ancient documents, that the town of Nazareth was
called the White Town, since the houses thereof, as also
the whole environs, the soil and stones, being calcareous,
have all a white appearance ; and a.-^ it is situated on a
mountain, it is undoubtedly the town in question.
Beth-Eimab nD'l n'D of Menachoth, 86 b, is probably
the modern village Rame, li English miles east fromUsa.
Garsis D'DIJ Eruliin, 21 h. (Rabbi Joshua from Garsis.)
Josephus mentions this place, and calls it a city of Galilee,
20 stadia (2i English miles) from Sephoris. At present
no vestige of it can be found.
The Gulf of Kantir TDJpT ^^M of Zohar Bereshith,
56 6; "on the other side of Lake Chinnereth is the vil-
lage Kantir, consequently the place in question means the
gulf or harbour of Kantir ;" thus reports Rabbi Menachem
de Lozauo, in his Maarich ; but it i? at present unknown.
I believe now to be able to state the following, as ascer-
tained, in regard to the possessions of Zebulun. In the
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 179
blessing of Jacob concerning him (Gen. xlix. 13), he said,
" Zebulun shall dwell at the haven of the seas," not " sea,"
as in the English version. The whole prophecy of Jacob
always refers to the possessions in the Holy Land ; and the
plural D^O* "seas" says plainly that Zebulun should have
the coasts of two seas in his territory, which would then give
us the respective shores of the Mediterranean and Chinne-
reth. I found farther proof that Zebulun was bounded by
both seas, from the following : in Tractate Megillah, 6 a,
it is said that the purple shell (Chalazon ThSh) is only
found in the territory of Zebulim ; in Tractate Sabbath,
26 a, it is said that this shell is only to be met between
Tjrre and Cheifa,* which is also confirmed by experience at
the present day. It is also stated in Yalkut to Deut.
xxxiii. 19, that the fiflliiig for the puiple snail took place
only on the coast of the Great Sea, in the territory of
Zebulun.
There are, besides this, several contradictory statements
made respecting the possession of the Lake Chinnereth.
It is said in Zohar Behaalotecha, 150 a, and in several
other passages besides those already cited, that this lake
belonged to Zebulun, aud that several of the towns already
named — ^for example, Tiberias — ^were situated on this lake.
Nevertheless, in Baba Kamma, 81 6, it says that this lake,
and even some land l3dng-south of it, belonged to Naphtali.
It is also asserted in Megillah, 6 a, J<n5t3 IT flpT of Joshua
xix. 35, "Rakkath is the (later) Tiberias;" and since Rak-
* To this is found a contradiction in Zohar to Exodns xiv. 25, nnjD D'l
khSdhS jnSn riDniB^K kdhb^k (l^^^^n) naijra mn "And the sea of Chinne-
reth was in the portion of Zehulun, and thence was obtained the purple
shell for the Techaleth" (the hl'oe of Exod. xxv. 4). The same is said in
Zohar Terumah, 149 h^ that the purple shell is found in Chinnereth, which
belonged to Zebulun. But I could not find the least evidence that this
shell is ever found in Chinnereth. The learned Rabbi Jacob Emden,
mentioned in his work D"i£Dn nnfitOD, already, that this passage is most
surprising.
I
180 GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
kath is reckoned in Joshua to Naphtali, it would appear
that the Lake Chiiinereth in the vicinity of Tiberias be-
longed to Naphtali. In Yalkut to Dent, xxxiii. 23, it is
said that the lake of Tiberias, as also Semechonitis, be-
longed to Naphtali ; and in Baba Bathra, 122 a, it is like-
wise stated that the district of Geuisur (Genezareth) was
in Naphtali. It appears, therefore, that Chinnereth was
considered as belonging to both tribes, as was the case with
frontier towns, as has been noted above, at Baalah, in the
land of Dan.
The southern boundary line of Zebulun went, therefore,
westward from this lake to Mount Tabor, — the mount,
however, and town of the same name, belonged to Issa^
char, — then ran farther to Duberath, which town belonged
to both Zebulun and Issochar; thence somewhat northerly,
towards Shion, which belonged to Issachar; thence to
Mount Carmel to the river Klshon, which flows there
(Joshua xix. 11), to the vicinity of Akko, whioh district
belonged to Zebulun, according to Baba Bathra, 122 a,
though Akko itself belonged to Asher. At the northeast,
Zebulun extended to Tanchum (Kcfar Nachum), since it
was situated on the boundary between Zebulun and Naph-
tali; thence the line ran westwardly to Kitron (Sifuri) ;
thence it extended, in a long and narrow strip, to the
vicinity of Zidon ; so that a small part of this territory
touched the Mediterranean, whereas the greater portion of
this coast belonged to Asher, as will be shown hereafter.
Josephus says that Zebulun extended from Chinnereth
to the Great Sea, near Mount Carmel.
It is necessary first to explain the position of the towns
of Naphtali, and then the territory in general. It is said
in Joshua xix. 33, " And their coast was from Chelef, from
Aylon Bezaanannim, and Adami Hannekeb, and Jabne^l,
THE DIYISIC^S OF PAI£STINE. 181
unto Lakkum, and the outgoings thereof were at the
Jordan." But of all the names of these places, there is
not a vestige left at present in the country. Fortunately,
however, I found an explanation of them in Yerushalmi
Megillah, chap, i., where it says that Bezaanannim is ^jJK
tS^npn Agn6 Hackedesh ; so it is also commented in Jona-
than to Judges iv. 11, B^np DJTT K*iJK 'IB^^O ly "to the
plain Aganiah, which is near Kedesh." Now the meaning
of Agn6 in the Chaldean is ^^ swamp, moor" (see Rashi
and Kimchi, in the passage cited) ; and the commentary of
Jonathan then translates the verse "the swampy country
which is near Kedesh." But I have ah-eady stated ahove,
in the second chapter, that Semechonitis is only filled with
water in the rainy seMon, but is at other times a large
swamp. There can -therefore be no doubt that Aylon
Bezaanannim was between this swampy lake. and Kedesh.
It is farther said in Yerushalmi MegiUah, that Adami
is Damin (pOH). Now this would give us the village
Dam6 (= Damin), 5 English miles west from the south-
west point of the sea of Tiberias. It is also said, in
the same passage, that Hannekeb is Zeidatha (Kn*!^^). I
suppose to find a trace of this name in that of the village
Hazedhi, 3 English miles north from Al Chatti. It is
stated there farther that Jabneel is Kefar Yamah, i. e. the
village by the sea. I thought at first to have foimd a cor-
rect elucidation concerning the site of this Jabneel, since
Josephus says, in his Bell. Jud., book iv., chap, i., " The
Lake Semechonitis is 30 stadia broad and 60 'long, and
extends to Jabn6." This would seem to* indicate that Jab-
neel, Jabne, or Kefar Yamah, was situated on the north-
west shore of Semechonitis. But I afterwards found, in
other and more correct editions, instead of Jabn6, "to
Daphne," which really appears the correct reading, for
the reasons given in the first chapter, article Riblah.
182 GEOGRArnT OF PALESTINE.
I tlierefore believe that this Jabneel was situated on the
southern ahore of Lake Chlnuereth, and that it is the
Jamnia or Jamnith in Upper Galilee, mentioned by Jose-
phuB in the Bell. Jud., book ii., chap, xsv., and in the
Life of Josephus,
AzQoth Tabor niDH IMtit, although now unknown, was
situated without doubt not far from the east side of Mount
Tabor.
Chukkok ppP) probably the village Jakuk, 10 Engli.>^h
milea northeast from Tabor. Here is pointed out the
grave of the prophet Habakkuk.
Haziddim omfH- Li Yerushalmi Megillah, i., cited
above, it says : " Haziddim is the same with Kefar Chittai,"
which is without doubt the village of Chittin, situated 5
English miles west-northwest from Tiberias. Near it is a
Hteep and high mountain, called Kurn Chittin (see above,
second chapter, page 71). This Kefar Chittai is also
mentioned in Bereehith Rabbah, 05 ; and in Chagigah,
chap, v., § 6, *' Rabbi Jacob from Kefar Chittai." We also
read in Yerushalmi Megillah, i., that Zer, the next men-
tioned town in Joshua xix. 35, was near the above ; where-
fore, although now unknown, it must have been near the
modern Chittin.
Chammath nDIl- In Talmud Babli, Megillah, 6 a, it
says, that Chammath is the same with Chamtan ; and ibid,
fol. 2 b, it says, " From Chamtan to Tiberias there is a
distance of 1 mill." I presume this to be identical with
the Emaus of Josephus, and that its situation was near
the present hot spring of Tilrerias; for although it is more
than a mill from Tiberias, it must l>e observed that this
is now situated farther to the north than it was in the
time of the Talmud. I farther believe that Chammath
is identical with the Levitical town of Naphtali INT nopi
Chammath Dor, literally " the hot springs from fire,"
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 188
(1K1 = *11Kn*)? in reference to the hot springs found there,
of Joshua xxi. 32. In 1 Chron. vi. 61, it is called pan
Chommon.
Eakkath np") is, according to Megillah, fol. 6 a, the
later Tiberias.
Chinnereth H'liD is called in the same passage Genussar
^D1J)J> and was still standing in the time of Astori, and at
present the ruins of Gansur can be seen 2} English miles
northwest from Tiberias. Josephus, m his Bell. Jud., b. iii.,
chap. XXXV., paints in an extraordinary manner the pro-
ductiveness of the plains of Genussar ^DIJJ, and says that
it is 30 stadia long, and 20 broad ; but at present all is
deserted and wasted. It is scarcely thirty years ago when
this plain was like a garden of God, the fruits of which
were pre-eminent in the whole coimtry for their size and
superior excellences ; but the Arabs of the vicinity became
engaged in a civil war, and destroyed everything, from
mutual motives of revenge and infuriated passions, so that
not a vestige remained.
Adamah HOIK? I believe identical with the present
village Dama, situated 5 English miles west-northwest
from Zafed. In Orlah, chap, ii., we read of Rabbi Dosthai
from Kefar Dama, and in Menachoth, 99 ft, of Ben Dama
NOT p, so called, perhaps, from being ei native of this
place, " a son of Dama."
Chazor 'Tisn. See above, in the 31 Kings.
Kedesh B^lp, is the village Kudes, situated on the
mountains of Naphtali, 5 English miles northwest from
Lake Semechonitis, and 20 miles north from 2iafed. It
was formerly one of the cities of refuge (Joshua xv. 7) .
Here are shown the graves of Deborah, Barak, Abinoam,
Jael, and Cheber.
En-Chazor ^IVH V^- is undoubtedly the village En-Azur,
^ This would require a Chaldee construction, in ^hich the Daleth is
the preposition " of the." — ^Translatob. ^
184 GEOGBAPHT OF PALESTINE.
about 3 English miles south from the village Azur. (See
above, art. Chazor.)
Migdal-El-Chorem Din htf SlJO, 8 miles east from
Akko, is the village Medjdl al Krum, I suppose this name
to be an incorrect pronunciation of Migdal-El-Chorem.*
Beth-Anuth fllJi? fl'D- Eusebius says : "15 mill east
from Sephuri is the town Bathanea." I think it ought to
be " north from Sephuri ;" since even at the present day
there is a village called BaLneh, 1 mile northeast from the
village Medjdl al Krum. I take Baineh to he Beth-Ene
^ Anath. In proof of the correctness of this supposition,
this place is called in YGru.''halmi, end of Orlah, " Bainah,"
whereas in Tosephtah Kelaim, chap, i., it is called Beth-
Ana, which shows the identity of the two names.
Beth-Shemesh COB* JT3. At the timeofAstorijtherewas
a village, 2i English miles south of Sephuri, called Sumsi,
which he supposed to be Beth-Shemeah of Issachar {Jo.shua
xlx. 22); but it is my opinion that it was identical with
the Beth-Shemesh of Naphtali {ibid. 38), although the
position assigned it by Astori would seem to place it be-
yond the boundary of this tribe. (See farther, the descrip-
tion of the possessions of Naphtali.)
Charosheth-Hagoyim D'ljn Htl'in (Judges iv. 2); I take
this to be the village of Girsh =: Chirsh, which is situated on
a high mount, 1 English mile west from the Jordan bridge,
the Djisr abne Jacob, Jonathan explains this name with
" fort, castle ;" and in truth the village of Girsh is well cal-
culated to have been an ancient fort. It was nearly totally
destroyed through the earthquake of 5597 (1837).
Tishbi OttTl (1 Kings xvii. 1). In the book of Tobith,
chap. i. 2, it is Raid : " Tisbi, a city in Upper Gahlee, east
of Kedesh, in Naphtali, and north of Asher ;" the latter
* The autLor takea these three words to be one name ; but the acceo-
tnatiou Bccraa to point ont that Sligdal-El means one, and Chorcm another
pla^e. — Tban slato r.
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 185
position appears obscure and incorrect, and ought to be
" east of Asher." It may have been the birth-pla«c of the
prophet Elijah. But he is called the Gileadite ; wherefore
this Tishbi of the prophets, must have been east of Jordan.
Josepbus calls Cbesbbon, in the territory of Reuben, "Tis-
bunis ;" this place was a, Levitical city (Joshua xxi, 39 ;
1 Chron. vi. 66). As Elijah was, according to some, a
priest, it is likely enough that ne was bom in a city of the
Levites.
" And Naphtali touched on Judah on Jordan towards
the east" (Joshua six, 34), This passage appears ex-
tremely difficult, since it assigns Judah possessions so far
north in Palestine. But I think to be able to explain it
in the following manner. We read in 1 Chronicles ii. 21,
" After this Hezron, the son of Perez, the son of Judah,
took the daughter of Machir, the father of Gilead, for a
wife, when he was sixty years old, and she bore unto him
Segub. Segub begat Jair, who had twenty towns in the
land of Gilead. And he took Geshur and Aram with the
towns of Jair from them, with Kenath and the towns
thereof, sixty cities. All these belonged to the sons of
Machir, the father of Gilead." Abeu Ezra says to Num-
bers xxxii. 42, "Jair, son of Menasaeh, belonged to the
family of Judah, since Hezron took the daughter of Ma-
chir for wife, and begat Segub, who begat Jair, who had
possessions in the land of Gilead, consequently his family
name was derived merely from the mother's side." In
Baba Bathra, 112 n, it is said, " Jair married a wife with
many possessions and goods ; she died, and he inherited
the whole property." From all this we may deduce
that all the possessions of Jair, "the Chawoth Jair," be-
yond Jordan, properly speaking, belonged to Judah, and
these separate towns were situated in Gilead, on the east
side of the Jordan, opposite the territory of Naphtali.
The passage in question then says that Naphtali was
186 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
bounded on the east by that part of the possessions of
Judah situated in Gilead, through inheritance from the
female liue of Machir, but haa no reference to the terrr-
tory of Judah proper, situated at the south and to the
west of Jonlan ; and thus is the difliculty removed.
In Tahnud and Midrashim the following names occur :
Zefiith riflS of Yerushalmi Rosh Hashanah, chap. ii. ;
the description of which in detail shall be given hereafter.
Miron pTO mentioned in Zohar to Shemini, fol. 39 a,
also in cud of Haazinu, and probably the Mero (instead
of Meron), of Josephus' Bell. Jud., book ii. chap, xxv., aud
the Ascent of Beth-Meron pio ri'3 nS^D of Rosh Ha-
shannh, fol. 18 a, is tlie village Miron, situated on a moun-
tain, 6 EiigUsh miles to the west of Zafed. In this place
and its environs are many vaults and graves, where many
of our ancient learned men of blessed memory repose ;
especially one cave, where are deposited the remains of
the celebrated Hillel and many of his disciples; another,
■where the equally famous Shamai and his wife lie in-
terred. There is also found there a most ancient Syna-
gogue, as also an unroofed college (Beth-Hammidrash),
beneath which are the graves of Ralibi Shimou ben Jo-
chai (the alleged author of the Zohar), and of his son
Rabbi Eliezer. On the 33d day of Omer, on the 18th
of lyar, there ia held here every year a general popular
festival, which is attended by our brothers of Israel
even from Damascus, Aleppo, Bagdad, Cairo, Constan-
tinople, &c. At night the houses are illuminated, burn-
ing torches are carried about, and they have religious
danceH, and innocent and modest amusements of all sorts,
and you often will find several thousand Israelites in
attendance at this festival, which is called 'li R7l7*n
'MnV p pyOB' Hilula derabbi Shimon ben Jochai, that ia
" Rejoicing feast of Rabbi Simeon." It appears to mo that
the origin of this festival is owing to that on this day, the
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 187
33d of the Omer, the day of his death, the Great Idra*
was delivered by him to his scholars, as is told in Zohar,
end of Haazinu, and it is consequently a festival for the
Cabbalists.
Kefar Chananiah H^Hn nfiO of Shebiith, chap. ix. § 2,
is called pn TfJD Kefar Ghanan in Midrash Neelam to
Vayera, fol. 115 a, also in Zohar Vayiggash, fol. 216 6,
and is the modem village Kefr Anan, 5 English miles
west-southwest from Zafed. There is & Sjnaagogue here,
but it is in ruins.
Ferathi ♦mf) of Bereshith Rabbah to Vayechi (Rabbi
Jose from Ferathi) j is the modem village Ferady, 1 mile
north of Kefr Anan. They point out here the grave of
Rabbi Nachum, of Gimso, and in a cave, that of Rabbi
Ishmael.
Kefar Sami or Simai ♦ND^D W ♦OD *ia3. This place is
termed Sami in Tosephtah Gittin, i., Samai in Gittin, fol.
6 by and Sama in Midrash Koheleth to chap. vii. 26. Te-
rushalmi Challah, chap, ii., mentions that a river is found
near this village. Now this points the place to be the
modem village Samai, about 1 English mile south froni
Miron, near to which flows the Wady Leiman, in a south-
erly direction, and after turning it falls into Lake Chin-
nereth, near the former town of Tanchum, where it is
called Wady Amud. This, therefore, must be the river
mentioned in the passage cited as being near Samai.
Shizur Tlt^ty is the modfem village of this name, 3 Eng-
lish miles west from Kefr Anan ; near it are the graves
of Rabbi Shimeon, from Shizur, of the high priest Rabbi
Ishmael, son of Elisha, and Rabbi Shimeon ben Elazar.
* This ia a lecture; if it may be so callod, by Rabbi Simeon to his scho-
lars, and is, like the whole of the ^ Zohar, greatly esteemed by his fol-
lowers, among whom may be classed all the followers of the Cabbalah,
the mystical philosophy of the Jews, and the modem Hassidim. —
Translator.
I
188 GEOGKAPDT OF PALESTINE.
Kaparah niflp is the modem village of the same name,
5 Englifih miles west from Medjdl al Kriun. Here is the
vault of Rabbi Elazar, of Kaparah, and another of Bar
Kaparah. It is probably the town called Kaprath in the
Life of JosephuB.
Sichnin T'J3'D of Siphri, to Haazinu ; Rosh Hashanah,
27 a; Zohar Balak, 186 a, is the village Sichni, situated
5 English miles south from Medjdl al Krum. They point
out here the graves of Rabbi Yehudah and Rabbi Shimon
of Sichnin.
Achbarah mSDi? of Baba Mezia, 84 h, is the village
Echbara, li English miles west-southwest from Zafed,*
In Josephus' BeU. Jud., book ii,, chap, xxv., it is called
Achebariana.
Bin n'3 of Baba Mezia, 84 b, and Pesachim, 51 a, is the
village Birya, about 1 English mile north of Zafed.
Kefar Tanchum or Nachum DlHi IN DinJn 1M in Mid-
rash Koheleth, 85 a, it is called Kefar Nachum; in Mid-
rash Shir Ilashirim, 17 b, Kefar Tanchumin; in Yeru-
shalmi Terumoth, at end, and in Yerushalmi Taanith, i.,
Kefar Techumin. At the time of Astori, it was yet stand-
ing, under the name of Kefar Tanchum, about li English
miles east from Genussar. At present it is destroyed ; the
site is nevertheless well ascertained, and bears the name
of Kefr Tanchum. They point out there the graves of
Nahum the prophet, of Rabbi Tanchum, and Tanchuraa,
who all repose there, and through these the ancient posi-
tion of the village is easily known. It is close on Cliinne-
reth, and 2i English miles north of Tiberias.
Keraaim QUID of Menachoth,f 85 a, is no doubt identical
* I found a moat BiDgular ezplanatioa in the book Amch, art. Ach-
borah, whore be explains the pussage in Baba Meeia, 84 1, maj;' "13 with
nmB' "the neighbours," sidto the word is evidently the name of a place,
whence the correct rendering should be " the inhabitants of Achbarah."
f The aaacrtion of Rashi to this passage from Menachoth that Keratim
THE mVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 189
with the ruins called by the Arabs Karsaboo, about 2 miles
southwest from the above Kefr Tanchum.
Arbel 7D1M of Aboth, i- § 6 ; Yerushahni Peah, vii., and
Yerushahni Berachoth, i., is identical with the ruins of
Irbel, li English nules northwest fix)m Tiberias. They^
there point out the grave of Nitai of Arbel (Aboth, i. 6),
and even that of Dinahs daughter of Jacob, and, between
the laurel trees found there, the sepulchre of Seth, son of
Adam, and that of Rabbi Zera.
Migdal, also Migdal Detzibaya* K*;^3!fT Sljro ' hlM of
Midrash Echa, ii. 1, Bereshith Rabbah to Vayichbach, and
Midrash Shemuel, chap, iii., is the village Medjdl, about
1 English mile northwest from Tiberias. This town
is also called by the Christians, Magdelenia, and I doubt
not but that this name is alluded to in the Talmud. For
it is said in Pesachim, fol. 46 a, M^JIJ 71^10, " Migdal
Nunia is 1 mill from Tiberias f now there is either an
error of transcribing in putting the n for Z, or a mere actual
substitution of one of these liquid letters for the other, as
is often done in other cases, as Beth-€n for Beth-el ; Djibril
for Djibrin; Serain for Serail ; whence I think it undoubted
that Migdalnunia is no other than Magdelenia.
Teliman JNO* /D ; from certain documents I have learned
that the just-named Migdal was also called Talmanuta ;
and I believe that this name too is discoverable in the
Talmud, that it is identical with Teliman here cited, which
occurs in Yerushahni Demai, ii.,as |N0 vD n"l3^D " th«
cave of Teliman," or, as I think, identical with the cave of
Talmanuta.
was not far from Jerusalem, is not correct, since its true position was in
Galilee, and Tosephtah Menachoth, 9, also controverts Rashi's statement
in this respect.
* This name is perhaps somewhat akin to the one mentioned as the
surname of one of David's heroes in 1 Chron. xi. 37, Juasiel the Mezo-
iMute, or of Mezobaia.
190 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
Pethugtba KHJIDS, so it is called in Vayikra Rabbah,
chap. V. ; but tbe Nn"jn3 Pemgaitlia of Sabbath, 1476,
is an incorrect reading ; it is no doubt the village Fatigha,
situated in the valley called Wady Sisabau, in a line dne
east from Zafed.
Gainla nSoJ of Mishnan Erechin, chap. ix. § 6; Yeru-
shalini Maccotli, chap. ii. ; and Tosephtah Maccotb, chap,
ii. It is stated in all these passages to be situated in Galilee,
whereas Josephus places it in the district of Golan (Go-
lanitis), on the east side of the Jordan. But I have
learned from Bedouins and otlier Arabs, that about 5 miles
south of Hunui, which is 6 miles north of Kedesh in
Naphtali, the ancient Gamla should have stood on a moun-
tain, according to a certain tradition. It is true, I could
discover no trace of the town ; still the tradition has a
great air of probability to recommend it.
Neburia N'llDJ of Midrash Koheleth to chap. vii. 26 ;
Yerushalmi Boriichotli, chap. ix. ; is probably the ruined
village Nebarti, 7 miles south of Kedcs. They point out
there the graves of Kabbi Joshua, of Kefar Neburia, and
of Rabbi EUezer, of Modai.
Safsufa JtSlDflD of Yerushalmi Terumoth, chap, viii., is
the village Safsaf, between Meron and Zaled.
En-Kachal Sn3 Vy is a name often mentioned in the
preface to the worlc Eraek Hamclech, and signifies a beau-
tiful and large spring, existing under this name, at the pre-
sent day, on the road from- Tiberias to Zafed, northwest
from the sea of Chinnereth.
Concerning the possessions of Naphtali in general, I can
only speak when I have described and explained the t<jwns
belonging to Ashcr, wherefore I will then give the synopsis
required.
Of the cities mentioned as belonging to Asher, in Joshua
six. 24-31, I have been able to ascertain what follows :
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 191
Chelkath nphtl is probably the modem village Jerkat
or Jerka, about 2 English miles east from Kefr Jasif (see
Achshaf ) . It strikes me that the r in Jerkat is substituted
for ly as this is often done in other names, as has been re-
marked above, art. Azel, in Benjamin. In 1 Chron. vi. 60
(English version 75), this Levitical city is called Chukkok.
Chali ♦Sn. We read in the book of Judith vii. 3 : " They
encamped — as far as Chalon,* opposite to Esdiielon." Per-
haps that Chali and Chalon designate the same place, and
its situation must therefore be sought for near Mount
Carmel.
Beten |J33, Eusebius says : " This is 8 mill east from
Akko ;" but this should evidently read northeast, or elsfe if
it be as the text of Eusebius reads it, it would place Beten
in the midst of Naphtali.
Achshaph t^tJ^^M. This is given in the Septuagint with
Keaph, which is as much as Chieifa. But Hieronymus
says that Achshaph is the town of Chasala, in the neigh-
bourhood of Tyrey on the river Leontes. Astori believes
it to be Arsuf (at present destroyed), on the sea^^oast, in a
direction west of Samaria (Sebaste). But all these opinions
have much that is objectionable in them. I rather am in-
clined to believe that it is identical with the modem village
Kefr Jasif = Chasif= Achsif = Achshaph, 5 English nules
northeast from Akko. At present no Jews are residing
there ; but they left it but a short time ago^ and an ancient
Synagogue is still in the place, and is in good repair. Thd
burial-ground of the Jews of Akko is in this village^ be-
cause Akko is not considered as belonging to the Holy
Land, since it was not repossessed by the exiles returning
under Ezra, as has been already noticed in our first chapter.
Alammelech 17D7M. The little stream Nahr al Melchi
flows south of Shafamer, in a westerly direction, and falls,
near Cheifa, into the Mukata (Kishon) . Its name would
* This is the Latin reading, and is no doubt correct.
I
192 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
almost seem to indicate that it is called after the ancient
Alamraelech, which stood on its banks.
Amatl lyOi' is probably the village Al-Mead, 2 English
miles north from Kefr Jasif.
Mishal 7NtfD is at present unkno\^Ti. Eusebius merely
remarks that it is on the searCoa.st, not far from Carmel.
Bcth-Datwn pji r\*2- About 9 English miles northwest
from Zafed is a village called, in the language of the
country, Beth-Shan. But, ujmn strict inquiry, I Ibund
that the proper pronunciation should be Beth-Djan, that is
undoubtedly Beth-Dgan, aa the Arabs often put their E^
for the Hebrew G ; wherefore I would identify this village
with the Beth-Dagon of Scripture.
Beth-Haemek poyjl n'3 appears to me to be the modem
Amuka, i. e, the deep, synonymous with the Hebrew Emek,
it being situated in a valley. This village ia 12 miles
north-northwest from Zafed, on the road to Kedes. It is
also probable that it is referred to under Kefar Amiku of
Taanith, 21 a.
Cabul Sl3D is the large village Kabul, 5 English miles
north-northeast from Akko. They point out here the
graves of R. Abraham Alwn Ezra, and of R. Shelomoh Ibn
Gebirul. It is mentioned in Pesachim, fol. 51 a, and Vayi-
kra Kabbah, chap. xx.
Ebron jnDJ? is no doubt the present village Ebra, situated
south of Kallat .Shakif, which lies in the valley of Kasmeia.
Among the Levitical cities it is called Abdon.
Rechob Dini- I have read in some books that its posi-
tion was about 7i miles east of Tyre, on the river Leontea,
in the present Wady Kaameia; but it is now unknown.
Chammon pon is called Ammon in Yerushalmi Demai,
chap, ii., and is probably identical with the village Hamani,
situated 1 mile west of Kanah.
Kanah TMp, is the village of this name, 3 EngUsh miles
Boutheast firom Tyre (Sur).
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 193
Zidon Rabbah, the Great Zidon rT31 |n*>f is at present
called Saida, and is a small, pretty town with a small
harbour. Here live about fifty Jewish families, who have
a handsome Sjniagogue. Without the town is shown the
grave of Zebulun, son of Jacob, over which is a cupola
with an outer court. The Arabs call him Sheich Saida,
i. e. chief of Sidon ; this would argue that this town be-
longed to Zebulun and not to Asher, and that the boun-
dary of the former reached this town ; since he would not
have been buried here, if it were not in the territory
assigned to him. South of Latrun (see Atroth-Beth-Joab)
is a village also called Zidon, whence then the name of
Great Zidon, to distinguish it from the smaller synonymous
town situated farther south, near Latrun.
Zor, Tyre Tl>f is the present small unimportant town
of Sur, 20 English miles south of Saida. It was in an-
cient times situated on an island, which, since the time of
Alexander of Macedon, is a peninsula. Without the town
there is a large monument, which the Arabs call ^ Sidna
Chur, i. e. " The Prince Chiram," and maiatain that
Hiram, King of Tyre, lies buried here. It would appear
that it is a long time since Jews lived here. When Zafed,
that is the part inhabited by Jews, was plundered and
nearly destroyed, in 5594 (1834), by the Arabs and Be-
douins, there arrived at Sur a ship from Barbary, North
Africa, filled with Jewish pilgrims, who purposed settling in
Zafed ; but when they learned that it had been destroyed,
they nearly all remained in Sur ; but in the course of five
or six years, the greater portion having died away, the
remainder settled in other places, so that at present not a
single Jew is found in Sur. As its former name was Tyrus,
the vicinity was named Tyrusia ; and hence I believe that
the Tursia so often occurring in Talmud and Midrashim,
is no other than this district of Tyre ; hence the Tursiim
means Tyrians. In Megillah, 26 a, it is said, " A Syna-
18
I
BOUl
194 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
gogue of the Turaiim was in Jerusalem." There was
another one of the kind in LoJ, as mentioned in Vajikra
Rabbah, chap. xxxv. In Pesiktah Rabbethi, chap, xv.,
it ia stated," Rabbi Nacbum taught in Triasia," &c,, which
probably also means in the vicinity of Tyre, or Tyrusia.
On the coast of the Mediterranean, 14 English miles south
from Tyre and 2 English miles north from Zib (Achzib),
there is an extremely steep, high, and narrow promontory,
which stretches into the sea ; it can be seen at a great dis-
tance, and it is ascended as it were on a ladder, that is to
Bay, the path leading to its summit is cut out in steps,
similar to a staircase, hence its name, " the Ladder of
Tyre," "ll^fl ND'71D Sulraa Deziir. In Arabic it is termed
Ras al Nakura. (See also Erubin, SO a, and Beza, 256.)
Chosah non, which Eusebius states to be a city between
Zor and Achzib. At present there is a village, called Al
Busa, perhaps a corruption from Chusa, 2 English miles
northeast from Zib, and is possibly the Chosa of Scripture.
1 English mile south of Saida (Zidou) there is indeed the
village Al Chasia, which is more similar to Chosah than
Busa is ; hut it cannot be identical with it, aa it is too far
to the north.
Ramah noi is probably the village Ramis, 6 English
miles southwest from Kedes.
Achzib D'I3X ; in Talmud and elsewhere, it is briefly
called Chezib 373, and is the modem village Zib, situated
on the sear^hore, about 5 English miles north from Akko.
Here also is to be noticed a singular statement of Astori
in saying, fol. 65h., "This Achzib is the place mentioned
in the history of Judah, son of Jacob, in Genesis xxxviii.
6;" but this opinion is erroneous, since that Chezib was in
the land of Judah, not far from Adullam (which see).
Aphek pSN may probably be identical with the village
En-Fit, also called En-Fik, situated about 3 English miles
southwest from Baniaa.
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 195
Bechob 3ini- Some have believed that Eusebius, in
BSLymg that Raiib is 4 mill from Beth Shean, referred
to Eechob of Asher. But this cannot be correct, since
Beth-Shean was not near this tribe ; but it is to be sought
for in the Lower Bakaa, not far from the river Wady Kas-
meia, in the direction of Banais or Laish (Judges xviii. 28).
It strikes me, however, that Eusebius meant " Araba" or
the town of Harabbith, belonging to Issachar (which see).
There also belonged to Asher the following places :
Akko I3y (Judges i. 31) . In Arabic Aka signifies, " hot
sand ;" and the place may have derived its name from the
fact that the whole line of shore to Cheifa, 8 English miles
in length, is in a measure a sandy desert, which becomes
very hot in the summer. It seems that this town was
already in ancient times destroyed, and dwjjidled down to
a village, since we often find it called Kefar Akko, that is,
the village of Akko; for instance, in Tosephtah Sotah,
chap, i., and Bereshith Rabbah, chap, xxx., also in Sotah
34 b. It is also possible that reference is made to a village
of the same name with the town, which may have been
situated near Akko. At present there are here about forty
Jewish families, who have a small but very ancient Syna-
gogue. In the time of the Romans it was known as Ptole-
mais. Its fortifications are extremely strong. It was
during the great part of the period of the Franks, that is,
whilst the Europeans possessed the country, the residence
of their kings. It suffered much in 5592 and 6600 (1832
and 1840), through the bombardment and capture of the
Egyptians and Europeans; but it has been speedily re-
stored and rebuilt, and is again very strongly fortified. It
has been often captured. In 4398 (638) it was taken by
the Calif Omar from the Greeks, when the whole country
came under the power of the Saracens. In 4864 (1104)
it was taken by Baldwin I. from the Saracens; in 494T
(1187) it was recaptured from the Christians by Saladin^
I
L
106 GEOGRAPUr OF PALESTINE.
King of Egypt; in 49-51 (1191) it was taken by Richard
CoBur de Lion, and Philip of France; and in 5051 (1291)
it was finally captured by Serapa, King of Egypt, on which
occasion 60,000 Christiana lost their lives. In 55-59 (1799)
a contest was waged here between Sir Sydney Smith, who
was in the city, aiding the Turkish Pacha, and Napoleon
Bonaparte, the commander of the French army, who be-
sieged and had at length to retire mthout takuig it. In
5592 (1832) it was captured by Abraim (Ibrahim) Pacha,
of Egypt, who conquered at that time all Palestine and
Syria, and carried Abd Alia Pacha a prisoner to Alexan-
dria. In 5600 (1840) it was again taken by the militarj-
espedition of the English and Turks, from Abraim Pacha,
since when the whole of Syria and Palestine has remained
mider the power of the Ottoman Porte. [It is called, in
the European dialects, St. Jean d'Acre. Translator.]
Zarephath HDIS {1 Kings xvii. 9). The ruins of this
place arc found close upon the sea, 6 miles south of Saida.
One mile east from this, on a high mountain, is the village
Surafend, probably of a later date than the town itself.
It is possible that the passage D JTTV ^3 D'D naiCO
(Joshua xlii. 6), untranslated in the English version, is
synonymous with Zarephath, that is, "purifying," from
Zaropli flllV) " to purify," — no doubt so called from the
fact that salt was made here from sesrwatcr; wherefore we
raay assume that riSTiCD is put* for rn3SD.
About 1 mile north of Dor (Dandura) is a village, like-
wise called Surafend ; whence it is possible that the defi-
nition of 1 Kings xvii. 9, "to Zarephath, which belongs to
Zidon," refers to the fact that there was another city of the
* Mny it not nlso bo merely sjnonyuioua, and utit cscbanged ? — and
that Miasreplioth Mayira merely means places wliere the (sea) water was ,
boiled, subjecl«d to fire, or, bo to say, burnt out, and thna be a legitimate
derivation from "jni;? Sahrofe, " to bum ?" This derivation does not,
however, gainsay the identity of the name with Zarephath, — Tkans-
THE DIVISIONS OP PALESTINE. 197
name, which may have been the modem Surafend, near
Dor.
In Tahnud and Midrashim the following names occur :
Cheifa nfl^n? of Sabbath, 26 «, Tosephtah Yebamoth,
chap, vi., and Shemoth Babbah, chap, xiv., was called
Purpureon during the dominion of the Greeks and Romans,
because the purple shell* was often found and taken in the
vicinity. (See the passage cited of Talmud Sabbath.)
Josephus, in his Bell. Jud., book iii., page 2, calls this town
"Caba, a city of the horsemen," because King Herod's
cavalry was stationed here. It is at present an insignificant
little town, at the foot of Carmql. Not far from it the
Kishon (Mukata) falls into the sea. About forty Jewish
famiUes, who have aa old Synagogue, reside here at the "
present time. In their burying-ground are the graves of
Babbi Adimi of Cheifa, and Babbi Isaac Napcha (Smith ?) .
Shikmonah njlDpB^, of Demai i., Baba Bathra, 119 a,
was, according to Josephus, between Caesarea and Akko ;
but it is at present unknown. Some believe it to be iden-
tical with Cheifa.
Turi niD? of Midrash Shir Hashirim to chap. viii. 7,
Midrash Samuel, chap, iii., Yerushalmi Baba Mezia, chap,
ii., is either the village Tireh, between Akko and Shafamer,
or the village Tuna, south of Carmel, not far from Merdj
aben Amer.
Gush-Chalab ^Sn tl^lJ, of Menachoth, 85 6, Shemoth
Babbah, chap, v., Siphri to Haazinu, and Zohar Acharay
Moth, fol. 63 6, was destroyed at the time of Babbi Chis-
kiah and Babbi Jesa (see Zohar, 71 a). Josephus, in his
* I must call attention to the fact that the blood, or the dyeing material
of this shell, produces a red dye ; and that still, both in Scripture and
Talmud, this colour is always given as blue nS^n. But it appears from
Talmud and other documents, that through certain preparations and mixing,
the original red colour was changed into a blue. This remark is extremely
interesting, as this explains the incongruity which otherwise would make
erroneously the blood of the chalazon of a blue colour.
198 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Bell. Jud., book iv., chap, iv., calls it Gischala, a fortified
town in Upper Galilee. It was the birth-place of the chief
John (Paritz Yochanan), who is so famous in the siege of
Jerusalem by the Romans. It is the Achlab sSflK of
Judges i. 31, mentioned as belonging to Asher. Oil
was produced here in great abundance (see also article
Tckoa, page 114). It is now the village Gish, also called
Gish-Chalab, and is 5 English miles northwest from Zafed.
There are shown here many graves of our departed learned
men, among others, those of Adrammelech and Sharezer,
the sons of Sancherib (2 Kings xix, 37) ; and near these
the graves of Shemaiah and Abtalion (Aboth i. § 10),
who were descended from the first-named princes, who,
after slaying their father, are said to have embraced
Judaism, having witnessed the slaughter of the Assyrian
army before Jerusalem, and seeing that the Holy City waa
under the protection of God. (2 Kings xix. 35 ; Gittin,
57 A.)
Upper Tamegola, above Caesarea, nSj^oSl nhy nSlJJ^n
I'*lDp 10 (Targum Jonathan to Num. xxxiv. 9, 10; Yeru-
shauni Shebiith, chap, vi, ; Yeruahalmi Demai, ii.) Pliny,
V. 19, mentions Zarephta and Ornithon, meaning, un-
doubtedly, Zarephath and Tamegola, Ornis in Greek being
BjTionymous with the Hebrew Geber, and Chaldean Tar-
negol = cock. The Gabara often mentioned by Josephus,
Ga;bara and Gischala (Life of Josephus, page 525), is no
doubt the same place. It is certain that this place had
an idol image of a cock, which was worshipped here,
nSuJ^m D'Jpin " the image of the cock" (Jonathan to
Num. xxxiv, 9, 10); farther, that the Nergal 7JI*i3 men-
tioned in 2 Kings xvii. 30, which was represented under
the image of a cock (see Siinhedrin, 63 b), was the idol of
the Cutheans, who were properly of Zidonian descent, as
they themselves asserted, in their letter to Antiochus (Jos.,
Antiij., book xiii. chap, xvii.) ; that this worship was
peculiar to the Zidonians, wherefore they had a city dedi-
THB DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 199
cated to it in their territory, to wit, the town of Tamegola^
and that their descendants, the Cutheans^ worshipped the
same idol in Judaea, after their emigration thither. The
exact position of this ancient town is not known ; I how-
ever heard from the Bedouins ibid Arabs, that they knew
the name of Gabara by tradition, and that it is said to
have been situated northwest from Banias, not far from
the valley Wady Kasmeia (Leontes). This assertion has
a great deal of probability to recommend it, since this
position will place Tarnegola north of Banias, the former
CaBsarea Philippi, which would therefore explain the defi-
nition, Tarnegola above Kisrin (CsBsarea). The same
definition is given by Jonathan to the word p Dan, in
Gen. xiv. 14, pnD^pT p "Dan of Kisarion," which proves
clearly that already in the time of Jonathan, Dan or Banias
was defined by styling it Kisarion, i. e. Csesarea.* In
Pesiktah B^bbethi, chap, iii., there is spoken of, R. Eleazar,
of nSjJTlD Serongala, which must be incorrect, and should
read Tarnegola, or R. Eleazar, a native of this place ; and
this mention in this late book proves that this name must
have been known at a later period than the Talmud.
In Yerushalmi Demai, ii., the following names are men-
tioned, Yedut, &c., to Chamas.
Yedut DH)^* is probably the village Djudeidfe = Yudeid6,
li English miles northwest from Kefr Jasif. I deem it to
be the town Gedud = I>jedud (by changing G into Dj),
mentioned in Negaim, chap. vi. 94. Also, 3 English miles
west of Chaspeia, there is a village Judeta. In the vicinity
of Zidon there is a mount called Djebl Djudud, similar to
Gedud or Gedut. This mount is much visited by Christian
pilgrims. There is pointed out the grave of Aholiab son
of Achisamach, of the tribe of Dan. (Exodus xxxi. 6.)
Susita Nn^DID of Bereshith Rabbah, chap. xxxi. and
* It is also probably identical with the Kisrin in Upper Galilee, men-
tioned in Sokkah, 27 6.
200 GEOGRAI'HY OF PALESTINE.
xsxvii., "from Susita to Tiberias," of £cha Babbathi to
chap. i. 17, " Susita, for the most part a heathenish to^^^l
(as said iu Yerushalrai Kosh Haahauab, ii.), was always at
enmity with the Jewish inhabitants of Tiberias." It ap-
pears from Pesiktah Rabbethi that Siisita was near Coder.
In Yenishalmi Shebiith, vi., it is said that " the land of Tob,"
of Judges xi. 3, is Susita. Literally the meaning of the
word is, "the horseman's town," from Sue DID horse. Jose-
phus calls the place Chephua or Chephon, perhaps derived
in some manner from the Greek Hippos, also denoting
horse. There can be no doubt but that this name is also
used in the Talmudical writings ; for instance, in Mcgillah,
24 b, 'JE"D1 'Ja'n 'JD " the men of Chephon and Beth-
Shean." Bereshith Kabbah to Vayechi has Rabbi Isaac of
Chefinos. The place is at present unknown, but it must
have been on the southeastern shore of Lake Chiuneretb.
Nob DIJ is the village Naba, 1 mile south from Usa;
and pi'obably identical with Niphapha, mentioned in the
Life of Josephus.
Chaspeya N'flDn has already been spoken of in the de-
scription of the Lebanon.
Kefar Zemach nOV ^DDl is the present village Semach,
on the southeast point of the Lake Chinnereth. The
earth herealwut contains some gypsum (sulphate of lime),
and they make here remarkably fine water-jugs.
Bazath nV3 is the village Baza north of Akko.
Rosh Me to fNI. Tiiis I suppose to be the village
Ras el Ain, " the Spring Head," equal to Rosh M6, " the
Water Head," 2 miles south from Sur. But it neverthe-
less seems more correct to seek for its site at the village
Mes, on the road from Banias to Chaspeya,
Mazi »I0, is jierhaps the village Ramis, 5 miles south-
west from Kedes.
Bcrin piD is the village Beroi, between Medjdl al
Krum and Akko,
TQE DIVISIONS OF PALESTIKE. 201
Ammon pOK, see above, under Chammon.
Karaka debar Hazareg, or debar Sanagera, ^31 rT3^3
J^irn also in several passages N^JJO n^T n3*) ilDna,
which, as has been already stated in Chapter I., is un-
doubtedly the present destroyed city Kallat al Sani, 4
English miles south from Zafed, the vicinity of which is
still called Shaghur, which has an evident resemblance to
Sanagera.
Chamas DDH is without doubt the village Chamsin, 2
miles east from Chezib. Near this place flows a little
stream, which falls into the sea south of Chezib ; I suppose
this to be the Nahar Deroma Shel Chezib S&* ilDT\l ^ili
yt^ of Tosephtah Shebiith, iv. : "The south river of
Chezib."
Kefar Zumaria NHDIlf ^SD of Toseph. Shebiith, iv., is
the village Simurieh, 3 English miles north from Akko.
In some copies of this Tosephtah, the reading is Kefar
Zemach.
Kefar Signah in the valley n);p33 Jliyo ^SD of Mena-
choth, 86 1, probably the village Sagan, in a valley north-
west from Gish-Chalab, and is in all likelihood identical
with the Sagani of Jos., Bell. Jud., b. iv., chap, i., and
the Como-Sagana of the Life of Josephus.
Arab y)j; is the village Arabi, 10 English miles east
from Cabul, and is probably the place referred to in 2
Sam. xxiii. 31. . There is also a village of the same name,
3 miles northwest of Nablus, the sheich of which had for
several years lately a war with the sheich of Nablus j for
the former was the so-called Mudier, i. e. head chief, over
Nablus and its vicinity at the time of Abraim Pacha, but
was deposed when the country came again under the
government of the Sultan of Constantinople, and had
thus to quit Nablus, and became therefore a deadly enemy
of the sheich who was put in his place; the conse-
quence was a war between these chiefs, so that it was a
202 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE,
long time impossible to travel in that neighbourhood. It
appears from Yerushalmi Sabbath, chap, xvi., that our
Arab was in Galilee, wherefore I hold it to he the firstr
named Arabi, and not the one near Nablua (Sheohem in
Ephraim).
In tliese parts of Palestine are likewise situated Dan,
Laish, Banias or Panias (Talmudice Pamais) B"7 IT
D'NOS DN'J3- I have already treated of these names.
4 English miles west from Banias, they point out some
ruins, which are said to be those of Dan or Laish. Joae-
phus also states that this was the distance between Dan
and Banias. In Banias, they point out the grave of the
prophet Ido, and over it stands a large Butum (Syca-
more?) tree; also the grave of Shebuel, son of Gershom,
son of Moses, and a cavern in which is the sepulchre of
Abay6 and Raba. About 3 mill north of Banias, there
is a mount, on which is an old building having several
cu[)olas. There is a tradition that the "covenant between
the pieces" with Abraham (Gen. xv. 9) was made on this
spot; the Arabs call it Meshhad al Tir, i. e. the covenant
or testimony of the bird (turtle-dove?), in reference to the
"bird" referred to, ibid. v. 10.
Zcredah miS- North of the just-named mount, on the
road to Chaspeya, is the village Chamam, 3 miles west
from which is the village Zarada. They point out here
the grave of Job6 ben Jofizer, of Zeradah, {Aboth i. § 4.)
Barthotha NniDID- The ruins of this place arc found
not far from Chamam. Here is sho^vn the grave of Rabbi
■ Eliezer, of Barthotha. (Orla i. § 4.)
I Abel, or Abel Beth-Maachah nS^D n'2 S2N SdK of
H 2 Samuel xx. 15, and 1 Kings xv. 20; but in 2 Chroni-
H cles xvi. 4, it is called Abel Mayim* O'D 73N- The dis-
^K * It is extremely surprising tbat the Targuin of Rabbi Joseph to the
^M paaaage cited from 2 Cbronicles, translates Abel Mayim with " Abel Mi-
^B maarab," Abel at the weat; whence it must be inferred tbat he read Q'O
^^L Miyam, of Uie west, iiutead of Q'Q Mayim, water.
I
THE DiyiSIONS OF PALESTDnS. 203
trict of Maachah^ which lay beyond Jordan, extended to
this place. (See above, page S3). About 14 miles
north fromLake Semechonitis, on the road to Chaspeya,
is the village Abil ; not far from it is another village Abel
al Kamach, and still another Abel al Krum, which is sup-
posed, though erroneously, to be Abel Keramin (of the
vineyards) of Judges xi. 33. I therefore believe that the
above Abil is identical with Abel Beth-Maachah ; and since
it is near the Wady Chaspeya it is termed Abel of the
Water. As this district has three towns, all called Abel,
it appears to me to be that called in Vayikra Rabbah xvii.
" Abelim" D^^aKH " The Abels." It also appears that
there must have been an Abel not far from Zippori, since
it is said in Erubin, 87 a, " An aqueduct led from Abel
to Zippori ;" but it is difficult to believe that the modem
village Abilin, 6 English miles northwest from Sifuri
should be meant here.*
Haberim Dn3n of 2 Samuel xx. 14, not far from
Abel Beth-Maachah. We find that in that vicinity, many
places were known as Biri, Beeroth, Birya. Josephus
says: " Between Kedes and the Sea Semechonitis, is the
town of Biri." Again, he says, that Joshua conquered the
princes of Canaan, near the town Berote, near the Sea
Semechonitis. In Yerushalmi Shebiith v. is named a town
of Birya near Tafn6, i. e. Daphne. Wherefore I am in-
clined to think that this neighbourhood was termed the
Berim, i. e. the plural form of Bcr, or the district of the
various cities of Bir, or Ber, as above with Abelim.
* In Bcreshith Kabbah, chap, xxxiii., it is said : '* Three springs of
Palestine and vicinity, remained not closed up after the flood (Gen. yiii.
2). The springs at Tiberias, Abeleni, and the one of the Jordan, issuing
from the cave at Pamais.^^ The spring of Abeleni is unknown to me ; but
in Sanhedrin, 108 a, the reading is Geder, Tiberias, and the large spring
of Birjam, not far from Euphrates. (See farther, article Birjam.) All
these three are hot springs; and, therefore, the reading of Talmud San-
hedrin is no doubt correct, but not that stating Abeleni and Pamais.
)
I for
■ Cai
■ the
204 GEOGRAPET OF PALESTINE.
Kefar Likitia N'tS'pb 133 of Echa Kabbethi to chap,
i. 16. We may discover a trace of this name iu that of
the riiins known as Tell Kati, which are held to be those
of Dan, or Laish.
Kefar Kurenia D*jmp 133, of Vayikra Kabbah, xvii.,
(named Kefar Kaniaim D'JID 13D in Ruth Kabbethi and
Pesiktah Rabbcthi, xvii,, which i.s an incorrect i-eading)
" they went out from Kefar Kurcnis and passed through
the whole of Abelim," &c., which is in the neighbourhood,
as said, of Abel Beth-Maachah. Northwest from this dis-
trict, on the other side of the Wady Chaameia, is a stream
named Nahr Zaherani, which falls south of Saida into the
sea. There is also a village called Dar Zaherani ; and as
Z is often exchanged for K, I take this name to be put for
Kahenini, or our Kefar Kurenis.
Yarchi 'nT of Baba Mezia, 85 i, "Samuel Yarchinai"
(of Yarchi) is the modem village Yarchi, west of Medjdl
al Krum.
THE POSITION OF THE TERRITORIES OF NAPHTALI AND ABHER.
I have stated already that the Lake Chinnereth be-
longed both to Naphtali and ZebuUm. Tanchum was on
the frontier between both triljes ; thence the boundary
line of Naphtali ran northward along Jordan, the Lake
Semechonitis, and Dan, or Laish ; thence westward to the
land of Asher, (which, therefore, was west of Naphtali) ;
then the Hne ran east of Gish, between Dama, i. e. Adama,
which belonged to Naphtali, and Gish ; thence south to
Shafamer, which was in Zebulun ; thence the eastern
boundary line ran north of Ramin to Tanchum and Lake
Chinnereth.
Asher's territory was west of Naphtali, and had, there-
fore, nearly the whole coast of the Mediterranean from
Cannel to Zidon, only that Zebulun had a narrow strip on
the Bea-coast, as already stated above. To the south, Asher
THE DIVISIONS OF PALESTINE. 205
extended, in part, to the Merdj Aben Amer (the Valley of
Jezreel), to the southeast of Cheipha, where it touched on
Menasseh (Joshua xvii. 10), and even on Issachar, as has
been stated in the definition of the boundary of that tribe.
Josephus states that Naphtali possessed Upper Galilee,
up to Mount Lebanon and the sources of the Jordan ;
Asher, the valley of Mount Carmel, as far as Zidon.
But it is impossible at present to designate with absolute
correctness the precise boundary lines of every tribe ; since
the same were not very strictly defined, and since many
places and towns were held in common, and are to be con-
sidered frequently as belonging to one and then to the
other tribe, as I have already clearly proved.
In concluding this chapter, I must explain a Mishna of
Maaser Sheni, chap, v., § 2.
The ^fourth year's produce of the vineyard (as also of
trees), as stated in Leviticus xix. 24, could not be redeemed
for money, like the second tithe (Deut. xiv. 25) ; but had
to be carried to Jerusalem, if it had been grown within a
day's journey from the Holy City. Now the question
arises, ^* Which are the points defining this distance?"
The answer is " Ailath to the south ; Akraba to the north ;
Lod to the west, and the Jordan to the east." In Beza,
5 a, it is given incorrectly, " Ailath north, and Akraba
south," and ought to be corrected as above. I was myself
a long time unable to decipher what is meant by Ailath,
notwithstanding my indefatigable inquiries, as I could not
find either in our or other literature or tradition any place
of this name situated a day's journey north of Jerusalem ;
till at length it struck me, and this quite correctly, that it
could mean no other than Eleutheropolis, and should stand
for Ailath-polis, with an interpolated 1 R, or Ailather-polis.
Thus, for example, a little river, north of Trablus (Tripoli) , is
called in Arabic Aluut, but in the western languages Eleu-
ther, with r superadded. I doubt not that HTK Ailath,
206 GE06RAFHT OF PALESTINS.
(or Elath ?) is an abbreviation for D*713")n7*K Ailethero*
polifl or " city of freedom/' Wherefore it is called in Bere-
shith RabbaJi mnn " tte free" (Gen. xiv. 6), which is
synonymous with its Greek appellation^ and is also identi-
cal with the modem Beth-Djibrin (which see).
Akraba is the Akrabathena often mentioned by Jose-
phus ; even at this day there are ruins, about 6 miles east
from Chavara (Beth-Horon), called Akrabeh.
I would merely remark that we cannot take the direc-
tion of these places as absolutely due south and west^ since
Ailath is southwest, and Lod northwest from Jerusalem,
whereas Akraba is almost due north, say north by east.
The distance also is not quite aUke to all four points from
Jerusalem : to the Jordan it is about 25, to Akraba 32, to
Lod 22, and likewise to Beth-Djibrin 22 English miles.
CHAPTER IV,
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN.
NATURE OF THE OOUNTRT IN GEKEBAL.
I HAVE already stated in the second chapter that the
Djehl Heish was the most northeasterly point of the tribes
to the west of Jordan, as it is the most northwestern for
those on the east side of the sanie river. From the foot of
this mountain there extends to the eastward a large elevated
plain to the district of Hauran. On this table land, south
of the Jarmuch, ^jlO*)* which falls into the Jordan in an
eastern direction from Mount Tabor, commence the moun-
tains of Gilead. South of this range there is another ele-
vated plain, which touches to the west on the valley of the
Jordan, to the east on the desert of Arabia, and to the south
on the Amon or Wady el Modjeb. This plateau, however,
extends yet farther south to Al Kerak (Kir Mo'ab) ; but
here begins a high mountainous country, extending to the
Wady Ahsa, which falls into the southeast point of me
Dead Sea. There commences the Djebl* Seir (Mount
Seir l^yE' in), also called Sarra, which extends to the Red
Sea at Akab6, situated on the eastern termination of the
same.
Josephus calls the territory east of Jordan by the general
name of Peraea.
* This name Djebl as denoting Mount Seir is already nsed by Jona-
than; for in Dent. i. 2, he translates "^y^ff "^n with K^3n troo — the
mount of Gebla, closely allied t6 the Arabic Djebl.
208 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
The following aro the coimtries situated east of Jordan
and on the borders of Palestine :
moab; ammos ; median asd kes
maacuah, argoc, and amalee.
i
I
Is situated south and southeast of Palestine, and ex-
tended to the Red Sea.* In the times of the Romans it
was called Petrsca, because the capital, the large city of
Sela (i. e. Rock), was also called Petra (Stone).
I will now mention the names of the yet known remains
and vestiges of the former towns of this country :
SeIa^7D) t)r the JokteCl of 2 Kings siv. 7, is situated
about 3 English miles east from Mount Hor, the so-called
Djebl Hauran, in a narrow valley called Wady Musa, 21
miles in circumference, and enclosed between uncommonly
high rocky cliffs. A narrow pass, a mile in length, but
scarcely vAdc enough for a loaded camel to get through,
brings us from the Arabah (see chapter second, article Dis-
trict of Jordan) into this valley. This rocky gorge, consist-
ing of immense masses of rock, seems to have been formed
by the hands of nature, and not by means of human labour.
A little stream comes down from the cliffs, and passing
through this gorge, enters the Arabah. Within these rocky
walls, which are 500 to 600 feet in height, are found
rains of houses, palaces, temples, theatres, which are as
old as the time of the Edumeans themselves or that of the
Romans ; aud there are discovered Ju every direction
heaps of stone, marble columns, uprooted pillars, &c. ; and
* It appears tliat at a later period thu Edomites moved and spread
thetnBelves farther to tLe north ; for wo find tbem in the vicinity of the
Euphrates, as wc arc told in Bereshith Ruhhah, ehap. liiiv. : "When
Duvid went to Aram Naharayim and Aram Zoha to war, he encountered
on the way Edomites and Atoabites." It is farther eaid in the work
cited, chap. Ixxv., " The Edomites wero afraid of the Barbarians and
GermaDtans." Germania is a district in Asia Minor, as I shall prove
in another part of the book. (Is it perhaps Caramiuiia ?)
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 209
in the walls also there are found houses, columns, graves,
and temples, hewn out of the rock, and though they have
existed already in all probability far more than a thousand
years, everything looks as bright and clear as though it
had been only the work of modem times.
The prophet Obadiah no doubt alluded to the strong
position and the security of Edom, when he said, " The
pride of thy heart hath deceived thee, thou that dwellest
in the clefts of the rock, whose habitation is high," &c.
(verse 3).
The Arabs call this country Gabal, which some suppose
is derived from Obal (Gen. x. 28), who is said. to have
settled here, and first corrupted into Abal, and then Gabal.
Buz tl3 (Jer. xxv. 23). There is a village south of
Petra, called Basta, which is supposed to be the ancient
Buz.
Bozrah mvS (Gen. xxxiv. 33; Isaiah xxxiv. 6; Jer.
xlix. 13; Amos i. 12), was anciei^tly one of the principal
cities of Edom. At present there is left but an old castle,
called Bezeira, about 30 miles north from Petra, situated
on a mountain ; near it are some large ruins. A town of the
same name was also to be met with in the district of Hauran.
Teman JO^H (Gen. xxxvi. 11, 15; Jer. xlix. 7, 20; Amos
i. 12; Obad. i. 9; Job ii. 11)^ is said to be the present
large village Mato, situated about 5 miles east-southeast
from Petra, on the road which the pilgrims follow from
Damascus to Mekka. In its environs are many handsome
fields and gardens. (See also Tosephtah Sanhedrin, chap,
xii., and Taanith, iii., § 7, Rabbi Shimon of Teman.) But
to me it appears more probable that Ma^ is the
MaOn pyo of 1 Chron. iv. 41, and 2 Chron. xxvi. 7 ;
"the Meiinim" (English version Mehunims, incorrect),
since this town or district appears to have been in Al Gor.
(See above, "The Valley of Jordan.")
14
210 GEOGRAPIir OF PALESTINE.
Tophel San, of Deut. i. 1, ia proljably the small town
Tafila, 0 English iiiUes north of Bezeira.
Dedan ^^, of Ezek. xxv. 43, is th& village Debana, 5
milea south-southwest from Bezeira.
Ezion Gaber "i3J p'Vi^ of Deut. ii. 8, is the modern small
town of Akaba, on the eastern tennination of the Red Sea.*
It has a small castle, Josepbu.s (Antiq., book viii., § 2),
calla the place Biriuzi.
Elatb tw*ii (ibid.) East of Akaba are found some ruins,
which are called Eila. In the times of the Romans, the
Red Sea was called the Elanltic Gulf.
Hor Ilahar, the Mount Hor inn "in (Num. xs. 25), is
the high mount Djebl Harun-I-, i. e. Aaron's Mount, about
8 English miles west from Maim ; there is a convent on It.
In a cave of this mount is the supposed grave of Aaron.
The walls of the cave are covered with inscnptions, which
appear to be Hebrew, but written so iudistuictly and un-
intelligibly that their contents cannot l)e guessed at or
deciphered.
About G English miles north-northwest of Tafila is a
small town called Ohanziri, celebrated for the battle which
Abraim Pacha fought there in the year 5594 (1834), with
* It is curious and surprising that the inhabitants of Aden, in the
southern pfi''' of Arabia, not far from the straits of Bab al Mandab, where
the Red unites with the Persian Sea, suppose this town to be Eaion Gaber,
and that they write in their contracta py (fipnai ia: p'Xy "Ezion Gaber,
which is culled Aden." There can be no good foundation for this tradi-
tional assumption of the identity of these two oitioa, since the Israelites
never entered Arabia (Yemen) on their journey from Kgypt to Palestine.
f There is a chain of mountains running almost uninterruptedly from
this Djebl Harun to the Dead Sea and ibo country of Jloab ; so that the
wboto may be regarded as one uncommonly long range. This will explain
an obscure passage of Siphri to Deut. sxxiv. : 'iThis ntount bad four
names, the Mouot of Abarim, Nebo, Hor, and Pisgah," — not that they
arc the lelfsame elevation, but various peaks, all belonging to the sanio
chain.
lUbiint Sinai ,
1
Traill of an Arabian Caravan,
PobhiliBd liy A.Hart, ?hiUitJfihit
PALESTINE BETOND JORDAN. 211
the Bedouins of that vicmity, and where he was defeated
by them, although he conquered them at a later period.
I wish in this place to explain several names which
occur in the itinerary of the IsraeUtes through the desert,
which will be the more interesting, as I have succeeded in
discovering several things which remained unknown to
other travellers.
Etham Dil^M (Exod. xiii. 20), is that part of the desert
which lies north of the Red Sea, near Suez, and is called
at the present day Ethia = Etham.
Baal-Zephon pfiV ^^3 (ibid. xiv. 2). Not far from
Suweis (Suez), at a distance of 1 mile to the north thereof,
is the village Tell Kalsum (the Red Sea being called in
Arabic Bachr al Kalsum), near which is a place called Bir
Zufis, which evidently has a strong resemblance to Zephon.
Marah ,1*10 (Exod. xv. 23). At a distance of two days'
caravan journey, about 25 English miles, south of Suez,
on the shore of the Red Sea, is found a spring, the water
of which is bright and clear, but exceedingly bitter. It is
called En Chavara, and supposed identical with Marah,
i.e. "bitter."
Elim D*7K (Exod. xv. 27). One day's caravan journey
south of En Chavara, on the sea-shore, is a valley called
Wady Taibe, whence a rocky headland runs into the sea,
which bears the name Ras Zelima, in which I think to
discover a strong resemblance to Elima, or Elim ; where-
fore we may assume it to have been situated in Wady
Taibe.
Sinai, Choreb anipj ♦J^D (Exod. xix. 11). Three days'
journey southeast from Wady Taibe is the large mountain
range of Djebl Tor. Here are found two mounts, of which
one is about 6000, the other about 7000 feet above the
level of the sea. At the foot of the latter, to the south,
is a large and broad plain. One of these mounts is sup-
posed to be the celebrated Sinai or Horeb; and the proba-
212 GEIXSRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
biUty is in favour of the latter, because it must have been
in the large plain " where Israel encamped opposite to tlie
mount." (Exod. xix. 2.)
Paran p3 (Num. x. 12), is no doubt the WaJy Phiran,
wliere formerly the town of Pharan stood ; this valley is
to the west of Elath, opposite to Djebl Serbal. Never-
theless it is certain that the wilderness of Paran must
have extended much farther than this in a northern di-
rection, since we read in Numbers xii. IG, ''They re-
moved from Hazeroth (Chazeroth), and encampad in the
wilderness of Paran ;" and ibid, xxxiii. 18 it says : *' They
removed from Hazeroth and encamped at Ritbmah,"
which consequently must have been in the wildeniesa of
Paran, which then must have extended an far as Wady
Eithimath (see farther, article RitJimah). Josephus, Bell.
Jud., book iv. chap, lx,, even asserts that the desert of
Paran extended to the neijfhbourhood of the Dead Sea.
Di-Zahab am '1 (Deut. i. 1), is undoubtedly the village
Djab, the Hebrew Zabab, not far from the shore of the
eastern arm of the Red Sea, in an eastern direction, oppo-
site to the Djebl Tor.
Rithmah nom (Num. xxxiii. 18). About a half day's
journey south from Wady Kiseima (see Azmon, chap, i,),
is found a valley calley Wady Rithimath. Rothem lite-
rally means a Broom-bush ; hence, Rithmah, the country
of the Broom-shrub ; and there actually grow many broom-
buehes near the Wady Rithimath. It appears probalde,
as Rashi already said, that Rithmah is identical with
Kadesh-Barnea, and the distance between Wady Gaiaa
(Kadesh-Barnea) and AYady Rithimath is actually quite
small.
Chazeroth flTIVn (ibid. 17), is undoubtedly identical
with the spring called En al Chuteroth, about a half day's
journey distant from Wady Rithimath, in an eastern
direction. The change of Z and T is easily accounted for.
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN. 213
Kibroth-Hataavah nwnn Hinap (ibid. 16). The cele-
brated Saadiah translates this name in his Arabic version
with Kabur al Shahava " the grave of desire." One day's
journey to the south-southeast from the En al Chuteroth,
is another spring named En al Shahava, ^^ the spring of
desire ;" which leaves no doubt of the identity of the
place.
Moseroth or Moserah mOD nnOD (ibid. 30, and Deut.
X. 6), undoubtedly identical with the Wady Muzera, one
day's journey south from Wady Rithimath.
Luz n7 of Judges i. 26. One mile south from Wady
Muzera, and almost connected with it, is the Wady Luzan.
It is possible that this was the Luz in the land of the
Hittites ; and it appears from Zohar to Terumah, fol. 269,
that this town of Luz was situated beyond Palestine
proper.
Ben6-Jaakon |py* 03 (Num. xxxiii. 31). 10 English
miles south from Wady Muzera is the Wady Anaka, and
iniU ™mity a moun/of U,e «»ne name, whieh beak an
evident similarity to Jaakan, by transposition of the n
and k.
Chor-Hagiddgad or Gudgodah njljn ^P? (ibid. 32) and
mjnj (Deut. X. 7) is undoubtedly the Wady al Gudhagid,
one day's journey from the former Wady Anaka.
Jotbathah or Jotbath n3B* nn^p* (Num. xxxiii. 32)
is very probably the Wady Taib6, which is on the western
shore of the northern point of the Red Sea, opposite to
Akaba.
Abron ]T\2J^ (ibid. 34). I am inclined to believe that
this name signifies " ferry," being derived from ^3j;, " to
pass over," or the place of passing from the western shore
of the Red Sea to the eastern, since Jotbath was on the
former and Ezion-Guber on the latter side of the Gulf of
Elath. It is possible that the people either actually crossed
214 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
this arm of the sea, or that it wob a station whence the
passage was usually made by other travellers.
Kadeeh, En-Mi^hpat DD^fO j')? K'lp (ihid. 36, Gen. xiv.
7). About 10 English miles south from Petra, is found a
large and important spring, wliieh the Bedoums call En al
Sedaka = Zedakah, i. e. the Spring of Justice, and is un-
questionably the ancient En-Mishpat, since Zedakah and
Mishpat are often synonymous, meaning justice, equity,
rectiliule. This Kadesh is also called Kekem, as in On-
kelos to Genesis xiv. 7, aud Numbers xx. 1 ; so also in
Mishna Gittin, chap, i., § 2, " From Kekem in the east."
Now this Eekem cannot be the same stated by Rabbi
Gamliel in § 1, "*From Rekem and Chagra," which is
Kadesh-Barnea in Rekam-Gaia, since this is in the south
of Palestine, and not in the east, wherefore " Rekem in
the east" must be Kadesh, En-Mishpat. This name of
Kekem, as given t« this Arab town, called by the Greeks
Petra, is derived, as Joseph us states in his Antiquities,
book iv. chap, vii., from Rekem, the prince of Midiara
(Num. sxxi. 8). And it is actuallythe case that this
spring is but 10 miles distant from Petra, whence it is
then clear that the environs thereof were called Rekem.*
* It is, therefore, an erroneous usauniption of several eminent writera
to cousider Kadesh-Burnea as identicul with Kadesh, En-Mishpat ; since I
have fluffioiently proved that the former is the modern Wady Gaian, nnd
the latter without any doubt, the En al Sodaka, whieh is at a very gn»t
distance from Wady Gaiim. Even the learned Abn Ezra makes this
mistake in his commentary to Numbers xi. i.; and the celebrated lUshi
to Deuteronomy i. 46, asserts the same and brings a proof from the book
Seder Olam, from which it appears that the Israelites were in the fortieth
year of their pilgrimage at Kadesh-Burnea, which is oalted in Scripture
En-Mishpat, and that, consequently, both numnB designate the sttmo pUoe.
But I did not find in Seder Olam, in the passage cited, the two words
unp4 ^^ym\ " And they returned to Kwlesh," and are merely an inference
of KaHhi, as nothing is said by Seder Olam to establish the identity of
the two Kadesh of Denteronomy i. 2, 19, and ibid. 46. * In fact, Rashi
himself revokes his opinion, since be says to Numbers xxxli. 8, " There
were two Kadesh."
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN. 215
The above is all which I could trace out of the names
mentioned in the route of the Israelites through the desert;
but it is at present impossible to explain the actual relation
of these encampments, since some of the distances are but
from seven to ten miles, whereas others are from twenty
to thirty. , Of ten encampments from Bithmah to Mose-
roth (Num. xxxiii. 19-30), I could not find the least
trace; but I believe that they must have been in the
large, very stony, and mountainous desert of Azazimath,
which extends eastward from Wady Bithimath and Wady
Mazura, to the vicinity of Mount Madura, and is actually
the most naked and impassable desert of the whole sur-
rounding country.
Nebajoth nV^i (Gen. xxv. 13). Josephus calls the in-
habitants of the land of Nebajoth "Arabs," and says their
territory extended from the Red Sea to the Euphrates.
In 1 Mace. v. 24, 25, and ix. 35, they are styled " the in-
habitants of the east side of Jordan." But, as a rule, it
is impossible to give with any certainty an accurate de-
scription, or to assign the true position of the territories
of nomadic nations, since they never have any settled
home, and move about at pleasure within a wide range.
Kedar yiT) (ibid, and Jer. xlix. 28) . It is also impos-
sible to state the exact position of the country of this
nomadic tribe. It is mentioned in connexion with Neba-
joth, and the kingdom of Hazor. It must therefore have
been in the eastern desert of Arabia, and extended, like
the former, from the Bed Sea up to the Babylonian ter-
ritory.
Jishbak p^tff^ (Gen. xxv. 2). It is probable that this
tribe inhabited the country around the mount and village
of Shobek, which are about 6 miles to the north of Petra.
Masrekah np^B^O (Gen. xxxvi. 26). There is, 8 miles
south from Petra, a town called En Masrak, which is pos-
sibly the Masrekah of Scripture.
GEOGKAFHT OF PALESTINE.
MOAB 3Klt3
Was situated to the northeaBt of Edom, and extended
from the modern Wady Ahsa, which has a northweatern
course, and falls into the southeastern point of the Dead
Sea, to the Wady Modjeb (the Amon of the Bible). The
present name of the country ia Belad al Kerak, and is
even now a fruitful country (laa. xvi. 9, 10). Especially
the wheat produced here is very excellent, and is carried
in considerable quantities to Jerusalem for sale. The
names of the localities of Moab known at present are the
following :
Ar Moab 3K10 IJ? (Num. xxi. 28, and Deut. ii. 29),
was also called Rabbath Moab, that is, Rabbah belonging
to Moab, and in the time of the Greek and Roman supre-
macy Areopolis, is at present the village Rabba. 15 miles
north from Al Kerak (which see). There are found close
to it ruius, which measure more than a mile m circum-
ference.
Kir Moab 3N10 Tp (Jerai. xv. 1), is the present town
Al Kerak, which is situated opposite to the southeast ter-
mination of the Dead Sea, It is the largest town iu the
whole vicinity, and is well fortified, and built on high
rocks, in front of a deep and narrow valley, which some
suppose to be the valley of the stream Zered, which falls
into the Dead Sea. It is connected with a very strong fort,
which I suppose to be the Mizpeh Moab of 1 Sam. xxii. 3.
In the year 5594 (1834), when the Arabs and Bedouins
of this neighbourhood had rebelled against Abraim Pacha,
they took the fort through treachery and deception, and
slaughtered many of the garrison ; but some time after,
the rebellion was quelled, and the Arabs were sufficiently
punished and humbled. The Pacha was even determined
to demolish and destroy the fort; but he could not succeed,
since it is, so to say, a large boulder of rock, a solid mass
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 217
of stone. It can be seen, by means of a spy-glass, even at
Jerusalem, on a clear day. It would appear that Kerak
was formerly inhabited by Jews, since one can observe
Hebrew inscriptions on the stones of several houses.
One and a half miles north from Kerak, the Wady Sufea^
a small river, falls into the Dead Sea. I have scarcely a
doubt but that this is the " Willow River" n^^Jfil hm of
Isa. XV. 7, and Amos vi. 14, since Sufsaf in Arabic signi-
fies willow ; hence it is literally the same as Nachal Ha'-
arabah. Willow River. (See Sukkah, chap, iii., § 3.)
Sela ^70 (Isa. xvi. 1). North of the Wady al Ahsa is
a village called Al Pietra, a name probably of Roman de-
rivation. It is unquestionably the just-named Sela (rock,
Petra), of Moab.
Eglaim D vJK (ibid. xv. 8), is the village Agala, 7 miles
south of Ar.
Ham DM (Gen. xiv. 5). We may perhaps trace this
name in that of the village Humeimath, situated 1 mile
north of Ar.
Besides the above, I shall speak of other names in the
territory of Moab when treating of the towns of Reuben
and Gad.
AMMON pD;r
Extended from Amon to Jabbok, the Wady Zurka of
modem times. In Deut. ii. 37, we read: "Only unto the
land of the children of Ammon thou camest not, unto any
place on the river Jabbok, nor unto the cities of the moim-
tains," &c. I suppose this mountain of Ammon to be the
one which extends to the south of Hauran, and I shall
speak at length of it when discussing the latter range. We
can find but extremely few vestiges of the ancient names
of places in the land of the Ammonites, and I shall describe
218 GEOGRAI'HT OF PALESTINE.
Kabbah or Rabbatli Ammou, the largest town of the
countryj when discussing the cities of Gad.
MmiAN J'^D.
It is difficult to designate exactly the land of the Mj-
dianites, since we find traces of this people In many places.
Joeephus saysj that Moses came, in his flight from Egypt,
to the city of Midian, on the shores of tlie Red Sea, which
was so called from Medan, the son of Abraham. And
even at the present day there is a village to the south of
Akaba called Median. We find the hordes of Midian came
as far as Gazza (Judges vi. 4 ), into the land of Jloab (Gen.
xxxvi. 35, and Num. xxv. 6) ; in the land of the Amo-
rites (Joshua xiii. 21), and in Edora, to wit, Hekem near
Petra. See Kadesli, En-Mishpat, page 214.
Descendants from the Midianites were
THE KEMTE.S 'jp
Of Judges iv. 11 ; 2 Kings x. 9 ; and 1 Chron. ii. 55.
They were all descendants of Jethro, the father-in-law of
Moses (see farther, art. "Children of Rachab"). We find
also Kenites who did not belong to the house of Israel,
who, to distinguish them from the former, are called Shal-
maii, as it is given in Onkelos and Jonathan to Num. xxiv.
21, and Gen. xv. 19. The Kenites spoken of in 1 Sam.
xxvii. 10, and xxx. 29, belonged probably to the first
class, that is, to those adopted among the Israelites.
AUALEK pSoj,'.
The chief residence of this tribe must have been on the
mountain of Se'ir, aa is plainly told in 1 Chron. iv. 42; as
also in Gen. xiv, 7,* consequently not far from Petra. It
is likewise said in 1 Sam. xv. 7, "And Saul smote the
AraalekitCB from Havilah till thou comest to Shur, that
* But here it is said, " the whole field of the Amulekite," which would
denote a low and level countrj. — Tkahblator.
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 219
is over against Egypt," and also in 1 Kings xi. 16 (see
Baba Bathra, fol. 21 6), that Amalek* was embraced in
the territory of Edom. Nevertheless we can trace it in a
more northerly direction ; for instance, the Mount Amalek
in the land of Ephraim (Judges xii. 15). West of Kirja,
Kirjath-Jearim, is even to this day a district called Bn6
Amlek ; and even a Mount Sei'r is spoken of in Joshua
XV. 10. Not far from Djifhi (see tjflj; Ophni or Benjamin),
north of Ramla, is the village Amalek. The Armenians
are usually called by the Eastern Jews Amalekim, per-
haps owing to a tradition that they settled in the north,
where the present Armenians are found. Nay, we find
Amalekites even in Persia, since Haman was an Agagite,
which means a descendant from Amalek ; and according
to the Second Targum to the Book of Esther, Haman was
a native of India, but an Amalekite by descent ; for it says
to chap. viii. 13 '♦ynr [01 HiH nmno anion na ]on
nin pvOy n^21 ^' Haman the son of Hamdatha was from
India, and was also from the descendants of the house of
Amalek." Josephus says, the possessions of Amalek were
on the mountain of Seir, and in the vicinity of the Ara-
bian Petra.
BASHAN \^2,
We understand under the general term Bashan, the fol-
lowing districts : Geshur, Maachah, Argob, Salchah, Golan^
as appears from Deut. iii. 8-14, and 1 Kings iv. 13.
Onkelos and Jonathan render Bashan with Mathnan
Jno (see Joshua xii. 4), and the Arabic version of Rab-
3enu Saadiah has instead of this Al Bathni.
Argob is rendered by Onkelos with JtJlD^tS *]*?£) " the
District of Tarchona;" by Jonathan with JtilJ*183 T.argona ;
by Targum Yerushalmi with NJlD*1t3N Atarchuna; and
by Saadiah with Al Chut Modjeb.
* It was a tribe of the great Idumean nation. — ^Translator.
aSO GEOGRAPnr of Palestine.
Maachah is rendered by OnkeloB and Jonathan with
DlTpSN Aphkeros, and GesLur and Maacbacli with
Korvii and Antikeros by Jonathan.
Salchah is given by Jonathan with WpllTD Salwakia.
Josephus, in his Ant. b. xiii. chap, xv., and in hia Bell.
Jud., b. i., chap, iv., says that Golan and Seleucia are in
the vicinity of Lake Semechonitis ; in another place he
styles Og, King of Bashan, " King of Gaulonitis and
Gilead." He also nays, in Bell. Jud., b. ii., chap, vi., that
the Emperor Augustus gave to one of Herod's sons,
Antipas, the land of Perea and Gahlee, and to the other,
Philip, Batanea, Trachonitia, and Aurauitis. He also says
that Batanea was next to Trachonitis.
I will therefore now proceed fo explain the nature and
position of this district, and divide it into five parts.
1. Golan nij, the modern Djuhm, extends from the
southern shore of the Lake Cliinnereth t*) Banias; in this
district lay the canton of Argob JJINH vDn, in which
were sixty cities fortified with high walls, &c. (Deut. iii.
4, 5) . Even up to the present time there are found here
uncommonly many, near three hundred., ruins of former
towns, forts, towers, villages, theatres, and temples, both
from the most ancient period when the Israelites yet dwelt
there, and that of the dominion of the Greeks and Bomans.
No wood is found in the whole district ; everything ia built
of hard basaltic rocks, the cutting of which is exceedingly
difiScult.* You scarcely find a trace of wood any^vhere ;
even the bolts of the houses and the nails are made of
* In Prov. sivi. 28, it eajs, nmr) n^;'' nSn nai "and a flattering
mouth worketh ruin ;" here Jonatliitn translates Midcbeh with Tarclie-
nntha. Perhaps the true meaning of this word is " a laborious, profitleoa
striving," which one has, so to say, to expect in dreSBing basaltic rocks,
HteTBllj a repulsion, a rebounding, and a flying oS", like it nm3i " And
hia hand glideth off" (" fetcbelh a stroke," English version) ; whence
this part of Bashan is called Teracbona, " the bardslone land."
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN. 221
basaltic stone. It is at present but little inhabited, and
the inhabitants that are there, live in the ruins. Here
were the villages of Jair yn^ jy\f] the possessions of
Judah which bordered on Naphtali (Joshua xix. 34).
Here also was the city of refuge, Golan (Deut. iv. 43).
According to Talmud Makkoth, 9 a, it was situated just
opposite Kedesh in the mountain of Naphtali, likewise a
city of refuge, in a due eastern direction. But on the spot
thus indicated, now called Tell Hara, I could find no trace
whatever of the city of Golan.
2. Jetur, at present called Djedur, and formerly Ituraea,
lies to the east of Djulun, and extends northwardly up to
the district of Damascus, and to the northwest to the
mountain of Hermon. The name of Jetur was probably
derived from the son of Ishmael, mentioned in Genesis
XXV. 15. I think also that the Arabic name Djedur bears
a strong resemblance to Geshur ^15!^J, since it and Maachah
were comprised in this district. In the eastern portion
of it is the village Machac^, which is very much like Maa-
chah ; not far from it is another village, called Sekara,
also one called Kerath, and another named Kiria; it
may be thought perhaps that these words have a trace of
Aphkeros, as Maachah is given by Onkelos, and Korve
and Antikeros as Geshur and Maachah have been called by
Jonathan. .
3. Uz (Utz) is at present called Al Ledja. It lies south
of Damascus, and extends to the mountains of Hauran.
The Komans called it Trachonitis, which proves that the
canton of Argob extended thus far, since Argob is ex-
plained by calling it Trachonitis. In the eastern part of
this district, not far from Mount Hauran, is the town of
Djuba, which, perhaps, was the cause that Saadiah trans*
lates Argob with " Mudjeb."
In this district a severe battle was fought in the year
5593 (1833) between Abraim Pacha and th6 Arabs and
222 GE0GH.4PHY OF PALESTINE.
Bedouins of the vicinity, who caused a great slaughter in
the army of the Paclia ; since they were thoroughly ac-
quainted with the country, its defiles and caverns, which
knowledge they duly employed to deceive the Pacha's
army, who were entirely unacquainted with the same.
4. The mountains of Hauran, at present called Djebl
Hauran. The name appears to me to be derived from
tlie Chaldean "nn Chur, " hole, cavern," since there are
many cavea in this neighbourhood. It is already men-
tioned in Ezekiel xlvii. 17, pin CAawan, English version,
Hauran, as also in Rosh Hashanah, 22 b, and Yerushalmi
Abodfth Zarah, chap. iii. — Josephufi calU tliia mountain
Batanca. This district has but few inhabitants, and these
are Druses, whom I have already mentioned in the de-
scription of Lebanon. This mountain district has in part
a productive soil ; but to the east thereof commences a
great desert, which extends to the Euphrates.
5. The plain of Hauran, is called at present Sachl
Hauran. It is the Auranitis of Joaephus, and lies to
the southwest of the mountain of Hauran ; it is a fruitful
country, produces com, vegetables, and an abundance of
cotton wool. It is this place which is mentioned in
Deuteronomy iii. 10, as " all the cities of the plain, and
the whole of Gilead and the whole of Basban to Salehah
and Edrei."
I win next explain the names of the towns which are
yet discoverable.
Salchah naSo (Deut. iii. 10, Vayikra Kabbah, v.) At
the foot of the eastern portion of the Hauran Mountains,
is the town Zalchath, with a fort ; it is, however, now de-
stroyed, and is entirely without mhabitants. It appears
that these ruins must date from the Jewish period, since
the style of architecture of the ruined edifices is nowise
of the Roman and much leas of a later time.
Edrei 'i^IlN (ibid.) is probably to be sought for in the
J
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 223
very large ruins called DraS, which are found in the plain
of Hauran, not far from the strong fort of Mizrib. (In
Yerushalmi Berachoth, v., is mentioned Rabbi Tanchun
of Edrei.)
Kenath or Nobach tl2i Hip (Niun. xxxii. 42), is pro-
bably to be discovered in the village Kunath, situated in
the mountain of Hauran, one day's journey north from
Kelb Hauran (for which, see end of chap, ii.), near which
are found the large ruins of many buildings of Roman
architecture.
Karkar '^p^p (Judges viii. 10) ; I suppose this to be
the village Al Kerak, situated 5 miles south from Al
Churak (see next article).
Ashteroth-Kamaim (i. e. Ashtaroth of the Horns or
mountain peaks) D^i^D nn/lBO^ (Gen. xiv. 5, and Joshua
xii. 4.) It appears from Sukkah, fol. 2 a, that this place
was situated between two high mountain peaks. Astori
supposes that Al .Churak, which is 8 miles, northeast from
the ruins of Draa, is identical with Ashteroth-Kamaim ;
others, however, think it to be the old and strong castle
of Al Mizrib, situated on the route of the pilgrims from
Damascus to Mekka. Near it is the source of the Jarmuch
(which see). Moro will be given when speaking of the
cities of Menasseh.
Bozrah mM (Abodah Zarah, 59 a; Yerushalmi She-
biith, vi. ; Yerushalmi Bikkurim, iii. ; Midrash Shemuel,
XXV.; Vayikra Rabbah, viii.) I believe that the Basar
mentioned in 1 Maccabees v. 26, is identical with this
Bozrah, and that it is the present Buzrah, which is on the
plain of Hauran, and almost the last inhabited place in
the district, for here commences the great desert which
extends to the Euphrates. Near it are very large and
numerous ruins, and it has but few inhabitants. Astori
says in his work Caphtor Vapherach, fol. 71 a, ** Bezer, in
the wilderness (Deut. iv. 43), is half a day's journey east
224 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
from Edrci ; people call it Bozrah." But this view is
entirely wrong, since this Bozrali belonged to the tribe of
Menasaeh, as will be shown farther down, in the territo-
ries of the trans-Jordanic tribes, whereas Bezer belonged to
Reuben. This city of refuge is said, in Talmud Makkoth,
9 a, to have been situated just opposite Hebron, in an eastern
direction, whilst Bozrah lies opposite to Djinin {En-Gan-
nim), which is to the north of Shechem. (See Bezer.)
Zohar inS- This name occurs in Hilchoth Terumoth,
of Maimonidea i, § 9, Josephus, Ant, book xiii., chap, xv.,
makes mention of Zahara ; and we should conclude that
formerly it must have been a very large city. It may be
the modem At Zahara, situated one day's journey north
of Salchah ; it has but 200 inhabitants, though the ruins
there arc several miles in circumference.
POSSESSIONS OF THE TIIIBES OF REDBEN, GAD, AND HALF MENASSEH.
Before entering on the division of the territories of these
tribes, I must first explain the land of
OILEAD. -[phi
We often find that this term designates all the territory
of Palestine situated on the east side of Jordan; and in
point of fact the mountain of Gilead ramifies throughout
the whole of this territory. This mountain extends on the
east as far as the plain of Hauran, on the west to the Jor-
dan valley, on the north to the Jarmuch, and on the south
to the country of Balka, which lies to the south of the
Jabbok, through which cause all the trans-Jordanic tribes
had possession in Gilead. This also -will explain Deut.
iii. 12 : " And I gave to the Reubenites and the Gaditea
the half of the Mount Gilead, with its cities; but the re-
mainder of Gilead, and all Bashan, the kijigdom of Og, I
gave to the half tribe of Menasseh." The highest points
PALB6TINE B^OND JOBDAN. 225
of this mountain are the Djebl Djelad,* which is south of
the Jabbok, and the Djebl Osha, which is about li miles
north of Tsalt (for which see in the tribe of Gad) . The
Arabs point out on the latter the grave of Hoshea, whence
its name. But this legend is not authentic. The moun-
tain of Gilead is very productive ; there are found on it
good pine and oak forests, and many varieties of fruit
trees.
The mountains of Jazer and Machvar, the mountains
of Abarim (Onayn ♦IH 1130 nty^), which lie in the
southern part of Belka, appear even higher than the
mountains of Gilead, — ^not that they actually are so, but
because Belka is an elevated plain, and is consequently
higher than the land of Gilead ; wherefore even the lower
elevations of the higher plateau appear higher than the
most lofty of the lower plain of Gilead. The Djebl
Atara, situated about 9 miles to the south of Cheshbon,
is the highest point of this Jazer range. (See also article
Nebo.)
REUBEN. pK*>
The territory of this tribe was entirely in the south, as
appears quite plainly from Joshua xiii. 16, and that Amon
* The Arabp call likewise the whole chain Djebl Djelad. It is also
known by them as Djebl Oidj. This will elucidate an obscnre passage of
Midrash Shemuel^ chap, xxx., which no one has been able to decipher. It
is said^ in explanation to 2 Sam. xxiv. 6^ ni;rSjn 1K3M ^^'And they came
to Oilead/ this is Gidsh isnj.'' There cannot be any doubt but that^ at
the time the Midrash was written^ Gilead bore already its present name.
I found in the Arabic translation of Saadiah, Gilead often rendered with
vni Gidj, only that it is incorrectly written Girsh. I presume that the
version in Arabic characters is a copy of the Constantinople edition^ which
appeared in square Hebrew characters; and as D i and B. 1 in this alphabet
are very much alike, the copyist mistook the form ; whereas the Arabic
D and R are very different in their appearance, so that no change could
take place between Girsh and Gidsh.
16
I
I
226 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
was its southern boundary.* which separated it from Moab,
of the posseseions of which the IsraeUtcs were prohibited
to touch the least (Deut. ii. 24). To the east Reuben was
contiguous to the territory of Ammon (ibid. 37); and I
believe that the mountain chnin extending from Rabbath-
Ammon to Kerak, over which the general route of the
pilgrims to Mekka leads, was the eastern boundary of
the territory of Reuben, To the west it Iwrdered on the
Dead Sea (Salt Sea^; and to the north it appears to
me to have extended to the Httle mountain which lies
in the plain of Cheshbon, to the northwest of that place
(properly speaking, to the Wady Cheshbon), which was
not far from Nelw, as will be explained hereafter.
The names of towns still to be traced out are —
AroSr "Ijny. On the northern bank of the Modjeb, at
a distance of about 15 miles fmm the Dead Sea, are found
some ruins called Arar ; they lie nearly opjx}sitti to Hebron,
only a Uttle more to the south.
Medeha N31D) uo doubt identical with the ruins Madeba,
which are more than a mile in circumference, and are
situated about 5 miles south-southeast from Cheshbon.
Cheshbon TlDBTt is the modern village Chaaban, nearly
opposite to the northern extremity of the Dead Sea, at the
distance of 14 miles. On a high hill near it are found
large ruins, and one discovers yet the traces of ancient
pools (see Song of Solomon vii. 4). The environs of
Heshbon are, properly speaking, an elevated plain, situated
* The Anion, or the modern "Wady Blodjeb, therefore, separnted Moab
from Israel ; and it separates at present the northern couniry of Al Belka
from the aouthcrn Al Kerak. The Arabs call Al Belka also Belad al
Kafcr, i. e. the land of the imbelievers, because maoy Chriatians lived
here formerlj. Is short, I often hear thcin call the ruins which belong
to the Christian period, Heida niin Zenian ai Kafer, i. o. This is still
from the time of thp unbclievera. Ruins from the Greek period, espe-
cially destroyed towers and fortifications, they call fium Kallce, "Greek
Fort," because Greece is styled by them Al Sum.
PALESTINB BEYOND JORDAN. 227
between the mountains of Jazer and the Djebl Atara,
through which the Wady Zirka ( Jabbok) flows ; and the
passage of Joshua xiii. 16, "Cheshbon and its towns, which
are in the plain," refers probably to this plateau. Never-
theless, one has a high point of view, with a wide prospect,
when standing near the ruins on the above-mentioned
hill ; to the west there is seen the valley through which
the Wady Chasban flows, the Jordan, the Dead Sea, even
Jerusalem, and especially Bethlehem, can be distinctly
observed ; to the north the view rests on the ancient Ra-
moth-Mizpah (which see), and to the south the whole
country of Moab.
Dibon pan. Two miles north from the ruins of Arar
are found the ruins of Dhiban, which is possibly the
same with the Dimon pOH of Isaiah xv. 9.
Beth-Baal-Meon pyo hy2 n*3 is the village Main 2
miles south-southwest from Chasban. Hieronymus says,
" Medba lies opposite to Hesban, and the town of Baal
Mails (probably Beth MeOn), is in the district not far
from Hesban." This agrees with my statement.
Jahzah flVn* is probably the village Jazaza, to the
southwest of Dhiban.
Kedemoth niOlp is at present unknown. Jonathan
says to Deut. ii. 26, "The wilderness of Kedemoth,"
niOnp nanoS ^IODT N^nnnjO *^ from Nehardea which
is near the wilderness of Kedemoth," which is a most
singular statement, since Nehardea is in Babylonia, to the
east of Euphrates. Perhaps we may suppose here a slight
error in transcribing : 5 miles east from Mount Arapun
(see end of second chapter), which is situated in the dis-
trict of Wady Adjlun, is a little stream called the Wady
Nahady nMrWJ ; and I suppose that we should read in
the passage quoted from Jonathan jy718<njO, and that
Kedemoth might have lain near it ; but this would bring
228 GEOGRAPUT OF PALESTINE.
this town into the territory of Gad, whereaa it ia stated to
1)8 in Reuben.
Kirjataim or Shavay-Kirjataim D'nnp D'n'lp HM^
{Gen. xiv. u); no doubt the ruins of Kiriat, li miles
southwest from Mount Atara.
Sibmah nODK' is at present imknowu. Astori, fol. 70 6,
says: "One day's journey east from Jazer is Sibmah,
which ia called Shahbah." But this appears to me incor-
rect, since Shahbah is in the territory of Gad, and Sibmah
was in Reul>en.
Zereth-Ilashachar IFIBTI HIV is at present also un-
kno^vn. In Yerushalmi Berochoth, viii., is mentioned
Rabbi Jochanan of Kirzejon i he may have been perhaps
a native pf Zereth-Hashachar, since the Chaldean Kin^ea
is synonymous with the Hebrew Shachar, and means the
early morniug, or morning dawn.
Beth-Hajesbiiuuth mO'Cn n'3 is probably identical
with the ruins of Bteh-Jisimuth, situated on the north-
eastermuoat point of the Dead Sea, half a mile fnim the
Jordan.
There belonged to Reuben in addition the following:
I^.sha ys,'7 (Gen. x. 19), is translated by Jonathan with
Kaldeha Nm7p, which is unquestionably an error of the
transcriber, and should be NmSp Kalraha (or Kalirha);
the same is said in Bereshith Rjibbah to this passage, and
Terushalmi Megillah, i. Josephus, however, says that
Herod rebuilt the town of Lesha and called it Kalirrhoe,
(contracted Kalrah, or Kalirha) ; It was situated at the
foot of Pisgah, and had hot springs, which fall into the
Dead Sea. And now at this day there are found on Wady
Zirka, where it falls into the Dead Sea, ruins of this place,
as also the hot springs,
Mattanah njna (Num. sxi. 19), was, according to
Eusebius, 12 mill east from Medba. It is at present un-
known.
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 229
Abel 73N (ibid. xxv. 1). Josephus says that Abela is
60 stadia (7i English miles) from Jordan. The same is
said in Yoma, 75 &, " from Beth-Hajeshimoth to Abel-
Hashittim is 3 paras ;" and Beth-Hajeshimoth is, as said
above, near Jordan, which therefore makes the Talmud
and Josephus agree in respect to the distance of Abel
from Jordan. Hieronymus says, " Abel is in the moun-
tains of Phagor (Peor Hiyfl, the y given with g) which
lies north of Livias." But it is at present unknown.
Elala nSy /N (ibid, xxxii. 37), is identical with the
ruins El Al, 1 mile north from Hesban.
Bezer nV3 (Deut. iv. 43). Jonathan explains this with
jn^niD Kevathirin, which is very obscure. But to the
southeast of Arar, not far from Wady Modjeb, is an isolated
high mount called Djebl Kuwetta, which evidently resem-
bles the Kevathirin of Jonathan ; and it would therefore
appear that Bezer must have stood here formerly, as this
mount is also just opposite Hebron, to the east, and agrees
with the position of this city of refuge as given in Mak-
koth, 9 a.
Nebo )2i (Deut. xxxii. 19). This is the mount whence
Moses overlooked Palestine, wherefore it appears to have
been a high mount whence there is a wide prospect. It
is not possible at present to identify it with certainty.
Generally Mount Atara is taken for Nelx) r it forms indeed
to the west, fronting the Dead Sea, a very high mount ;
but on the east it appears and is by no means as high. I
however cannot doubt that the assumption is incorrect,
and that the true Nebo must be looked for farther to the
north. It appears from Sotah, 13 6, that it was situated 4
mill = 3 English miles, within the borders of Gad, although
the town of Nebo is reckoned as belonging to Reuben ;
whilst at the same time the grave of Moses was in the
portion of Gad. as we may assume from Deut. xxxiii. 21
pSD ppnO np7n Otff ♦D " For there is the burial-place of
L
230 GEOGRATITY OF PALESTINE.
the Lawgiver hidden." (See also Onkelos and Raehi to the
passage.) I therefore believe that the eame is certainly to
be Bought for among the mountains which lie northwest
of Hesban, and between which the Wady Hesban flows,
and falls into the Jordan to the northwest of Jisimut, at
a distance of about 6 miles from Hesban. Eusebius says,
" Nebo is 6 mill west (probably meaning northwest) from
Hesban ;" which agrees exactly with my hypothesis.
Minith n*J'!3 (Judges xi. 33) is probably the village
Mindja, 5 miles east from Hesban. In 1 Maccabees
V. 26, there is mentioned " Mageth Chasban." I doubt
not that an error was committed here in copying from the
original text, which was to a certainty in Hebrew lan-
guage and characters, by substituting the j G for J N, and
that Mageth is nothing else than Miuieth, an easy corrup-
tion from Minith.
The towns of this tribe were as follows :
Jazer li'J?'. Eusebiua says that this place is 15 mill
north from Hesban : it existed even still at the time of
Astori ; but at present there are ruins, called Seir, on the
spot indicated, which leaves ao doubt the Seir is derived
from Jazer. Near it there rises the spring called Wady
Seir, and I believe that Jeremiah alludes, in chap, xlviii.
32, where he speaks of the sea of Jazer, to water pools
which were probably supplied from this spring. A col-
lection of water is often called a sea in Hebrew, as the
brazen sea which Solomon made, 1 Kings vii. 44.
Rabbah or Rabbath, of the sons of Ammou nsi and
pj?0 'J3 n31 (Dcut. iii. 11) was called Philadelphia in
the time of the Roman supremacy. Eusebiua says : " It
lies 10 mill northeast from Jazer." At present it is a
small village called Amau, near which are very large
ruins.
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 231
About 8 miles northwest from Aman are found the
ruins of Zafit ; Josephus says that Jephtha (Yiptach) was
buried in the town of Zaphea, or, as other readings have
it, Zibia. Perhaps this is the ruined Zafit; or it may
be the place called the wine-press of Zeeb, spoken of
in Judges vii. 25.
Aroer *iyn)^ is the village Ira, situated near Aman. So
we also read in Joshua xiii. 25, " Aroer, which lies before
Kabbah."
Ramath-Mizpah, also called Mizpeh-GUead (Judges xi.
29), lyhi tlSaO ' PiaVO nO% is the present Tzalt, and is a
moderately-sized town with a strong fort. The town is
situated on a high mount, and its houses and pubUc
buildings are erected in the form of terraces on the same.
In the town is a considerable spring, the water of which
can be conducted under ground into the fort. The envi-
rons of Tzalt furnish much and excellent wheat, which
is some of the best of all brought to Jerusalem. Many
insist that this town is the city of refuge Ramoth-Gilead ;
but this was somewhat farther to the north, opposite to
Shechem. (See also farther, article Ramoth-Gilead.)
Machanaim D^JnO. Astori says, " A half day's journey
from Beth-Shean, in a direction just opposite, is the
town of Machna, which is Machanaim ;" but it is now
unknown.
Beth-Harim Onn n*3. Terushalmi Shebiith, vi., says,
"Beth-Ramtha is Beth-Harim." In Sabbath, 26 a, is men-
tioned, "From En-Gedi to Ramtha." Josephus, Bell.
Jud., book i. chap. 3, ^alls .it Beth-Ramtha, and says,
" Herod called it Livias." Some suppose it to have been
near where the Wady Seir falls into the Jordan ; others
where the Jabbok joins the same river.
Beth-Nimrah rnOJ n*3. From the mountains which
are near Tzalt, descends a small river which is called
Wady Nimrin, and joins the Jordan opposite to Beth-M
»
232 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
(Beitun). About 1 mile ea.«t from the Jordan, alongside
of thi« Wady, are found the ruins of Nimrin. According to
Astori, Buth-Nimrah was called at his day Namr, and was
about 21 nules south of Jazer. At present there are
found some ruins called Naur, which are 5 miles to the
south of Seir : are we to assume that Namr is the same
with Naur? But as Astori's account stands, it appears
incorrect ; for Both-Nimrah was in the plain (Joshua xiii.
27) without doubt, in the valley of the Jordan, and his
statement would bring it in the mountains. In Peah,
chap, iv., § 5, is mentioned Beth-Namr, i. e. Beth-Nuurin.
Sukkoth mOD- At the time of Astori, there remained
yet some traces of this town to the east of the Jordan,
near its bank, iu a southeast direction from Beth-Sheau.
Extremely curious, however, is the fact, that the Bedouins
call certain ruins to the west of Jordan, 1 mile soutTi from
Beth-Shean, by the name of Sukkoth ; since the town men-
tioned under this name in Scripture, was on tlie east side
of Jordan. It is, therefore, evident that we cannot trust
all the traditions of the Bedouins.
Zaphon jiflV. In Yerushalmi Shebiith, vi., it is said
that Zaphon is identical with Amatha, which is probably
the Omatho often mentioned by Josephus, which was in
the vicinity of Ramoth-Gilead, not far from Jordan. At
present the Bedouins call a certain spot near where the
Wady Redjib joins the Jordan by the name of Amatheh,
and it appears to me to mark the site of Zaphon correctly.
Botnira D*Jt33- Eusolaius simply says that Bathnia ia
in the portion of Gad, but gives us no farther account of
its position. It is, therefore, entirely unknown.
There belonged also to the tribe of Gad the following:
Raraoth-Gilead ij^Sj mOT (Deut. iv. 43) ; it is also called
Eamah (2 Kings, viii. 29). I take it to be identical with
the modern Kallat al Rabat, which ia situated on one of
the highest points of the mountain of Gilead, not far from
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN. 233
the Wady Redjib, and west of Adjlun. It is even at this
day a strongly fortified pla.^, which can be seen at a great
distance^ and it can be perceived even as far as Mount
Taibi (see Ophrah, in Benjamin), in a northeastern direo-
tion.
Kamon pop (Judges x. 5), is the village Kumima, 7
miles east-southeast from Beth-Shean.
Abel-Keramin (of the vineyards) D^DID 73N (ibid. xi.
33). Eusebius says that 6 mill from Philadelphia is a
village, in the vicinity of which there are many vineyards,
whence its name ; but at present it is unknown. Some
suppose, erroneously, that this is Abel al Ejrum in Lebsr
non, as I have stated already. The whole district of the
Jordan was formerly often called Arabah (Arabia), whence
I believe that Abel Arab of Pesachim, 72 a, is the same
with the town in question.
Tob 31t3 (ibid. xi. 3). I have already above, in men-
tioning Susita, proved that Tob, Susita, and Chefus are
all names of the same place. The inhabitants are called
by Josephus Tubanians. (See also 1 Mace. v. 13.) I have
stated before that the town of Susita was situated on the
southeastern shore of Lake Chinnereth. It belonged to
the Decapolis (i. e. the Ten Towns).*
* Under Decapolis are understood the ten towns of Palestine, the in-
habitants of which, in the time of Herod, were not Jews, but Greeks,
Romans, and the like. They were united under-some sort of constitution
and similarity of laws, although at a distance of each other, under the
name of Decapolis. They were — ^Damascus, Philadelphia, Raphana, which
was not far from Ashtaroth Kamaim (1 Mace. v. 37); Beth-Shean; Q^der;
Ghefas (Susita); Dion (now unknown); Pellam, which lay not far from
Gkder, now unknown ; Gturasas, now the immense ruins called Djerash, 16
miles southeast from Kallat al Rabat, which equal those of Baal-bek and
Palmyra or Tadmor ; and Kanatham, Kenath. Some suppose that Laish
(Csesarea Philippi), Beth-Gubrin (Beth-Djibrin), Kefar Zemach, Kamaim,
and Abila Batanea, at present the large ruins Abel, on the bank of the
234
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Jabesh-Gilead lySj K'3' (ibid. xxi. 8), is the modem
village Jabes, on the Wady Jabes, which falls into the
Jordan. It is 10 miles east from Jordan, in a direction
opposite to Beth-Shean.
Bithron piriD (2 Sam. ii. 29). Astori says that this
place was called in his day Al Atrun, and was south of
Macbauaim. It is, however, now unknown.
Ill Talmud and Midra.shim, the following places are
mentioned :
Geder llj {Eoah Haahanah, 23 h, Erubin, Gl a, San-
hedrin, 108 a, "the spring of Geder;" Yerushalmi Orlah, i.,
mentions improperly mnj "Gedudah," i.e. to Gediid; it
should be imj "to Geder;" likewise in Tusephtah Taha-
roth, vi., instead of TflOm HJ n'3 Beth-Gkt/i and Cham-
than, should read llj "Geder"), is undoubtedly the place
now known aa the extensive ruins of Umcheia, which are
8 miles from the southeast shore of Lake Chinnereth, and
li miles from the southern bank of the Jarmuch. Close
by it is a hot spring. At the time of Astori, Geder was
yet in existence; and he paints it with its hot spring,
pools, and extraordinarily remarkable buildings, which
were unusually strong: he says, moreover, that according
to tradition, Og, king of Bashan, had his residence here.
At present there is scarcely the least trace of its former
beauty and elegance.
Migdal-Geder "nj SlJD (Taanith, 20 a, and Maase-
chetli Derech Eretz, in which work it is always called
liy blJO or nnj, which should be llj, since Migda!
Eder, or Shepherd's Tower, is quite in a different direction,
whereas the transaction spoken of must have taken place
near Tiberias, not far from a sea, Chinnereth, and a river,
Jnrmucli, perhaps Abel Arab, aa said above, should bo reckoned among
the Decapolis. It uppears froiu the Yenuhiilmi and Togephtah that in
all these mentioned towns there dwelt many heathens.
PALESTINE BEYOND JOBDAN. 235
(either Jarmuch or Jordan) . It was probably near Geder,
but is at present not known.
Regib 3jn (Menachoth, 85 6), is the village Redjib, 9
miles east from Jordan, on the Wady Redjib, which has
its source in the mountain which lies to the northeast of
Kallat al Rabat, and joins the Jordan opposite to Shechem.
Eusebius says, " Regeb is 15 mill west from Garasas" (see
above, note to Decapolis), which agrees with the village
Radjib. I do not think that Regeb is derived from Argob,
although in the Samaritan text it is for ;nj|*1Nn 7!3n>
i. e. Regeb 3jn.
Kefar Akabiah tl^ypj^ *1SD ( Yerushalmi Nazir, at end) .
Southeast from Lake Chinnereth, on the road to Damas-
cus, is En-Akabi, also Chan-Akabi. (See Jos., Ant., book
xiii. chap, xxiv.) There is also, south of Zafed, a village
called Akabi, where are shown the graves of Armon and
Akabiah, son of Mahallalel.
Eglon p74y waa yet in the time of Astori inhabited by
many Jews, and was even later, as I have learned from
Jewish documents, a place of importance. It is the pre-
sent village Adjlun, 1 mile east from Kallat al Rabbat ;
it is situated on the Wady Redjib, which is also called
Wady Adjlim, and passes by this village.
THE POSITION 07 THE POSSESSIONS OF GAD AND MENASSEH.
From the above we learn that some of the towns of Gad
were not far from the Lake. Chinnereth. Consequently
the territory of this tribe extended to that lake ; and I
presume that the Jarmuch formed the boundary line be-
tween Gad and Menasseh. In an eastern direction, all
the land between Wady Chesban, the boundary line be-
tween Reuben and Gad, and the Wady Jarmuch, even as
far east as the plain of Hauran, belonged to the latter
tribe, as appears clearly from 1 Chron. v. 11 : " The chil-
dren of Gad. dwelt opposite, in the land of Bashan, as far
L
236 GEOGRAPHT OF PALESTINE.
as Salchah." The Midrash Yalkut to Deut. xxxiii. 20, also
says that the portion of Gad extended very far to the east.
To Menasseh. however, belonged all the remaining
places from Jarmucb to the mountains of Hennon and
the great desert, which extends to the Euphrates, that is,
the greater part of Bashan. I must now notice the few
names ot" places which have not yet been described, and
which belonged to Menasseh.
Ashteroth-Kamaim I have already noticed it is true; I
have, however, to cite the opinion and statement of the
celebrated Saadiah Gaon, who translates Ashteroth-Kar-
naim with Al Znamin. Now at the present day even
there is found a place called Zunaraein, on the pilgrims'
route to Damascus, li days' journey south from the same,
and half a day's journey east of Kaneitra. I suppose this
also to be the fort in the land of Gilead, mentioned in 1
Mace. V. 26, since Gilead denotes also other portions to
the east and north besides Gilead proper.
Chalamish CoSri- lu Echa Ralibethi, to chap. i. 17,
it is said, " Chalamish was always at enmity with Nav^h."
I learn from old books that Zanamin is identical with
Chalamish; so that. Zanamin, afterwards known as SaW
min, was also called Chalmish [i. e. rock, which would
well suit to the appellation of Karnaim, " rocky points,
peaks"]-
Naveh rtM of Echa Rabbethi, i. 17, Tosephtah Sukkoth,
iv. ; Midrash Koheleth, fol. 88 ; " R. Palti of Naveh ;"
'* Midrash Ruth, 49 ;" R. Shiloh of Naveh, is the village
Nova, on the above-mentioned road, 1 day's journey south
from Zunamein.
Sbukmezi TDplB* of Jonathan to Num. xxxiv. 11, is
probably the village Ashmiskin, 9 English miles southeast
from Nova.
Bashchar 1Dt^3 of Sabbath, 139 a, I supiwse to be iden-
tical with the Baegar in Arabia N*0*iy W 1JD2 men- ,
PALESTINE BEYOND JORDAN. 237
tioned in Echa Rabbethi to iii. 7. Josephus, Antiq., b. xiii.,
6, says that Jonathan the Maccabee was murdered in Basga,
in the land of Gilead ; in 1 ' Mace. xiii. 23, that place is
called Basgame, all which names no doubt refer to the self-
same place.
ADDENDUM.
In 1 Kings iv. 9 are mentioned Makaz, Shaalbim, &c.
The Septuagint translate Makaz with Michmas, which I
suppose to be incorrect ; since Shaalbim is near Samaria,
consequently far fron> Michmash. Otherwise is the situa-
tion of Makaz imknown.
Aruboth (ibid. 10), I hold to be the town Rabitha, in
the portion of Zebulun, the present village and Wady
Rabutia.
" In Asher and Aloth" niSy^l ntTJO (ibid. 16), I think
should be rendered in Asher and Bealoth^ i. e. Baal-Gad
or Laish, and that the 3 (in) before Asher also is the pre-
position imderstood for Bealoth ; I prefer this construction
since we find nowhere any mention of a town called AlotK
Bealoth is put without question for. Baalath, which has
been sufficiently described before.
CHAPTER V.
JERUSALEM oSciT — ARABIC, THE HOLT, AL KUDS.
ITS FORMER AND PRESEKT CONDITIONS,
To the east of the city is the Mount of Olives (Olivet),
elevated 2555 feet above the level of the Mediterranean
Sea; between it and the city is a deep narrow valley,
called the valley of Kidron ; it commences at the north-
east, where there is a little plain, and extends to the south
of the spring En Eogel, where the valley obtains a latter
extent and forms a little plain or level piece of gi-ound.
To the south and west there is likewise a valley, large
and deep, called the valley of Gicbon ;* more southwardly,
looking eastward, it bears the name of the valley of Ee-
pbaimj'f and extends to the just-mentioned little plain, or
the level near the spring Rogel, where, therefore, both the
valleys Kedrou and Gicbon unite. Jerusalem is thus sur-
rounded on three sides with deep valleys, entirely so on ,
* It appears to me that the Btream Gichon, which rises at the Upper
Pool (see farther, under En Shiloach, " the spring of Siloah"), once flowed
through this valley to that of Keilron, near the Ed Rogel. Here also
was the D30 miff the washer's or fuller's field, whence the valley is ualled
D3U mts nb-OD " the way or tlio course (of tlie water) into the fuller's
field," (Isiuah vii. 3.)
f I hold that Emek Rephaim is synonymous wilh the D'lJfln pDjr Emck
Hapegarim, the valley of the corpses of Jcr. isii, 40, since it appears,
from Psalm Ixxxviii. 11, that Rephaim signifies the same with Fegarin,
i. e. the dead hody.
Pibliihitd ky A Hari. Phili d«lplii
JERUSALEK. 239
the south and east, partially at the west, whilst at the
north and the northwest there is a plain.
Between the valleys of Kedron and Bephaim, and to the
west of the spring Shiloach, there is a small narrow valley,
running in a northern direction, and is partly embraced
within the limits of the city at the northwest ; I refer to the
valley Ge Ben Hinnom Qjn |3 ♦J. Josephus, Bell. Jud., b.
vi., chap, v., calls it Tyropoeon, i. e. Cheesemakers' Valley.
It also separates Mount Moriah from Zion.
Moriah, also called the Temple Mount, is 2280 feet in
height, and lies to the west of Kedron, and at its west side
is the northern part of the valley Ben Hinnom, conse-
quently that portion called T3nx)poeon ; as the first name is
applied to that part which lies beyond the limits of the
city, but not to the northern division, which is within
Jerusalem. Mount Zion is 2381 feet in height ; it lies to
the southwest of Moriah, and to the south of the city.*
We will now say something concerning the boundary
line between Judah and Benjamin (Joshua xv. 7), which
we broke oflf above, and refer to this passage.
The En Rogel mentioned in Joshua xv. 7, is unques-
tionably the well which is one hundred and twenty-two
feet deep, and covered over with a very ancient cupola^
and bears now the name of Bir Juab (the well of Joab) .
I am unable to detenhine whence this name is derived ;
but the Arabicf version already gave the above with Bir
* Tbo passage of Psalm xlviii. 3, pDV TiDr p'V in " The Mount Zion,
on the sides of the north/' is extremely obscure^ since Zion is at the south;
we must therefore explain it as though it read 'nDT) '' and the sides,''
meaning, first Zion the upper city, and then the lower town or the northern
part, or Jerusalem proper, as will be spoken of more hereafter. (See also
Pesiktah Eabbethi, 41, and Zohar to Yayiggash, fol. 206, where this
remarkably irregular passage is already discussed.)
f I 'greatly doubt whether this version is by Eabbi Saadiah Gaon
{iMJn rm;?D )}i'y ; for I think that the Pentateuch alone is the genuine
work of Saadiah ; and although he translated the entire remainder of
240 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
Juab. This well, or rather epring, is found in the south-
ern part of the Kidron valley, and near it is the above-
mentioned Sede Kobes. whilst En Rogel may signify the
same idea, that of fuller's or washer's spring, since the
washing or fulling of cloth was performed with the feet ;
hence Eogel is fuller, a washer with the feet, from lie/jeJ,
foot. Jonathan also renders En Eogel with Klip yV Ein
Katzdah, " The fuller's spring."
The northern line of Judah now ran from this spring
upward through the valley of Ilinuom, tunied then to the
west, up to Mount Zion, which lies to the west of this
valley, (Ps. xv. 8, " and goeth up to the top of the mount,
that lietb before the valley of Hinnom westward;" at
that time this mount was not yet called Zion, which name
was not applied to it before the time of David, wherefore it
is described briefly as " the mount.") To tlie south of
Mount Zion is the valley Rephaim, the most southern
part of the valley of Gichon. I made diligent inquiry to
ascertain by what name the Arabs call it, and I learned
that it is in their language Wady Rafaath, i. e., Rephaim ;
the plural of Rafa m Arabic being Rafaath, as Rephaim
is the plural of Raphe in Hebrew. I felt, therefore, con-
vinced that my view on the subject was quite correct. I
mention this thus circumstantially, since nearly imiver-
sally, although erroneously, this valley is taken for the G6
Ben Hinnom.
Although Joshua defeated the King of Jerusalem (Jos.
xii. 10) it nevertheless appears that the city was not at
that time taken possession of by the Israelites. It was
Holj Writ, tho other portions of the usual Arabio TCraion are the work,
for the most part, of later writers. Nevertheless, there is found in the
very ancient Al Aleppo (Cbaleb), which ia said to have been built already
in tho time of David, an Arabio translation of tho entire Holy Bible
in manuscript, which is universally held to bo the work of lUbbvnu Sua-
diab.
JEBUSALEK. 241
captured only after Joshua's death (Jud. i. 8). But the
Jebusites were not finally conquered till the time of
David and Joab, who were the first to capture the City of
David, the fort of (Mezudath) Zion. It appears that it
did not lie on the top of the mount, but on the declivity
of the same, towards the valley of Hinnom; since we
read of a going down to the fort of Zion (2 Sam. v. 17) ;
and an " ascending" from the same to the valley of Rephaim
is also spoken of (ibid. 19).* The Millo NiSo (ib. v. 9)
was on the eastern declivity of Mount Zion, towards the
spring of Siloah (fll/B^)- In 2 Kings xii. 21, we read
nSd l"^Vn nSo no, " they smote Joash at Beth-Millo,
which goeth down to Silla." I explain the last word to
mean Shiloach, exchanging D for {ff and K for fi, such an
exchange of letters being quite common, and that it means
at the Millo which leads down to Shiloach.
In the same neighbourhood, to the southwest of the
temple nlount, was also the house of Solomon, built for
his wife, the daughter of Pharaoh, whence a staircase
led to the temple. (See 1 Kings x. 5 ; 2 Chron. ix. 4, and
Neh. iii. 15.)
THE QATES^
Of the extent and the position of the walls and gates
of Jerusalem of the ancient period, we know but little ;
we only find in 1 Kings ix. 15, that Solomon built the
walls of the city; but we find no vestige to determine
how far it extended to the south and north. Of the gates
but little is mentioned ; we only find in 2 Kings xiv. 13,
that " Jehoash, king of Israel, broke down the wall of
Jerusalem from the gate of Ephraim to the comer gate,
four hvmdred cubits!* It is probable that this breach
* It is possible that the house of David in no of Yoma, 77 h^ was
situated in a valley or hollow, as it would also appear from the passage
in 1 Samuel v. 17-19 (which see).
16
242
GEOGR-iPnY OF PALESTINE.
mained open till the time of Uzziah (2 Chron. xxvi. 9),
and Hezekiah (ibid, xxxii. 5). Wc also find mention
made of a gate between the two walls near the king's
garden (ibid. xxv. 4) ; but beyond these data we know
nothing.
But at the rebuilding of the city by Nehemiah, we have
a more particular description of the walls and the gates,
which probably, therefore, existed previously; since it ap-
pears likely that everything was built on the former site,
to the former extent, and after the ancient dimeneiona ; I
will, therefore, investigate the probable previous position
of the gates enumerated by Nehemiah.
He tells, in chap. ii. 13. 15, "And I went out by night
by the Gate of the Valley, even before the Dragon Spring,
and to the Dung Gate, &c., then to the Gate of the Spring
(fountain, EngUsh version), and to the King's Pool, &c.,
and then I went up in the night by the brook, &c., and
turned back and entered by tlie Gate of the Valley."
I scarcely doubt but that the Dung Gate was at the
south, near the valley of Ilinnom, or the Tyropoeon ;* so
we read also in Jeremiah xix. 2, " Go out into the valley
of Ben-Hinnom, which is before the gate Charsith" (East
Gate, EngUsh version). Jonathan renders fl'Din with
Kikaltha KH^p'p the Chaldean for " dung," which clearly
proves that the Dung Gate was near the valley of Ben-
Hinnom. We are also told that the Valley Gate was one
thousand cubits distance from the former (Neh. iii. 13),
• Tbia Greek name of Joaophua can also be explained, since this Bung
Gate is called in Noheraiah iii. 13, mgiffn 'is, tbe Gate ShepbotU instead
of niSBWi Aabpothj of ii. 13. Now tbe word niSl? Slicpboth ia used in
2 Samael xvii. 29 to signify " olieese," whence we can conclude that the
gate was also called " the cheese gal'J," or tbe gate of the cbecsemakere,
whence again wc may assert that the name Tyropoeon, " valley of the
oheesemakcra" of Joaephus, finds it origin in tbe Scripturea. — [The Eng-
lish version of Cbarsith with "oast," is probably derived from ^^n " the
HUB," thus the gate of " sunrise." — Tranelatob.]
JERUSALEM. 243
consequently the Valley Gate must have stood in a north-
west direction from the other, for to the east we find no other
valley at the distance of one thousand cubits (two thou-
sand feet). I consider the Valley Gate to have led to the
valley of Rephaim, which encompassed Mount Zion alto-
gether at the south and partly at the west. Between the
two gates just fd^scribed, was the Dragon's Spring, which
is now totally unknown. Southeast fi:om the Dung Gate,
stood the Gate of the Spring or Fountain, probably not far
from the Lower Spring of Siloah. There also Was the
King s Pool, which exists at this day, as will be farther
mentioned at the explanation of the pools of Jerusalem.
There was farther, in this vicinity, the Gate between the two
Walls by the king's gardens, of 2 Kings xxv. 4. Even at
the present time, are foimd in that neighbourhood, near
the village Selivan, several gardens, which are abundantly
watered from Siloah. There were also the steps which
led to the temple, as I have stated above, when speaking
of the Millo.
I will next describe the supposed situation of all the
gates mentioned by Nehemiah :
At the south there were, 1. The Dung Gate, also called
the Gate between the two Walls ; east of the same was
2. The Gate of the Fountain.
At the west, 3. The Valley Gate; 4. The Comer Gate,
properly northwest from the first, at a distance of four
hundred cubits.
At the north, 5. The Gate of Ephraim, also called the
Gate of Benjamin, in Jeremiah xxxvii. 13, since it led
into the territory of both Ephraim and Benjamin. 6.
The Prison Gate (Neh. xii. 39), the site of which can be
accurately determined even at present by means of a tra-
dition which defines the position of the prison, the grotto
of Jeremiah, or otherwise called the Archer's Court
moon *lXn: it was situated near the Bab al Amud
244 GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
(which see). To the east of this gate were the towers
Meah and Chananel htiiim UNO of Nehemiah xii. 39.
At the ea.st were, 7. The Sheep Gate (properly at the
northeast). 8. The Old Gate, also called the Middle
Gate (Jer. sxxix. 3), since, according to the assertion of
Yerushalmi Erubin, v., it bore different names, to wit,
]vhi?n n^E' the Upper Gate; the Eaat Gate ni?On lyB';
the Middle Gate ■]inn 'iyt^f, and the Old Gate JiTN n;?B'.
9. The Water Gate (Noh. viii. 1, "Upon the broad street,
before the Water Gate," is explained by the Talmud to
mean "the Temple Mount" ri'jn in Kin). 10. The
Fish Gate (at the southeast), of 2 Chronicles xxxiii, 14,
is explained in the Chaldean translation of Rab Joseph
with "ins '3DtO " where fish are sold, or the fish market,"
and was probably near the pool of Shiloach ; and 11,
The Horse Gate, of Jer. xxxi. 40, and 2 Kings xi. 16, and
xxi. 11.
Ophel,* of Neh. iii. 26, was quite at the southeaet, above
the lower spring of Shiloach. It was an uncommonly
strong fort, the former position of which is still known
from tradition. The following statement is extracted from
* Tho passage in Zephaniali i. 10, niuran p n'jV) " A lamentation from
the other gate," is giTen by Jonathan with K3y p Opha; wherefore Kushi
expounds it with nia'i'n "^I'tari "from the poultry giite," a most singular
name, since I could not find any trace of a gatu so called in any posi-
tion. I hold it, therefore, as certain tliat here is an orthographical error,
and that Kfllp sbould read K^flij; 'Ophla, or the Opliel described above;
and it actually well auits to the description, Mishn^, or " the double,"
which signifies then the two walls (2 Kings xxii. 14), or the double wall
D'noinn, as also Eashi states to the passage cited, and as I shall describe
more fully hereafter. This certainly does not confirm Raslii's explanation
of poultry gate ; but my hypothesis is confirmed from the fact that several
editions of Jonathan have the correct reading »ha:y p, instead of mij* p.
Prom Yomshalmi Taanith, iii., it appears plainly that Ophel was in tho
valley of Kidron. See also Taanith, 22 b. The commentary of Hashi
and Toaephoth to this passage, however, concerning "Ophel," docs not
appear very clear to me.
JEBUSALEM. 245
the travels of Rabbi Benjamin^ of Tudela : " There is fotmd
a large spring, the one called Shiloach, in the valley of
Eadron; over this spring stands a large building {vy^
71"! J), which dates from the days of our forefathers," ♦0»0
1i*ni3K. The Italian Itinerary of the year 5282, of which
I shall speak more hereafter, says : ^^ On the summit of
the mount, at the foot of which is the source of the Shi-
loach, stands a building, where formerly was a village
with houses having cupolas. It is said that here stood
the niint of King Solomon." At present this spot is called
Ophel, and is done so, without doubty according to a cor-
rect and true tradition.
The number of the gates just given, as also the course
and circuit of the walls of Jerusalem as they were in
the time of Nehemiah, continued thus till, as Josephus
relates, the city was enlarged towards the north, and sup-
plied with new walls. When it was rebuilt, after the
destruction in the reign of Hadrian, it was done on a much
diminished scale, and with less gates. I could find no-
where any reliable accounts of that period, which give us
any information respecting the then size, gates, and wall
of Jerusalem. Only of a much later time, the year 4930
A. M. (1170), Rabbi Benjamin, who then, travelled through
Palestine, relates ^Hhat Jerusalem had four gates, the
gates of Abraham, David, Zion, and Jehoshaphat, which
is east of the temple." The Gate of Abraham probably
denotes the one leading to Hebron, " the city of Abraham,"
as at this day they call the gate leading to Hebron Bab
al Chalil, "the gate of the beloved," as Hebron itself is
termed Beth al Chalil, " the house of the beloved," refers
ring to Abraham,* the man universally beloved. The Gate
* After careful investigation, however, I found that the Arabs do not
apply the name of Chalil to Abraham, but to Isaac, since they call so
every one whose name is Isaac ; and I believe that this epithet is given solely
to Isaac, and only denotes him, as in Gen. xxii. 2, n^HK nerx p^n^ 1^3 HK
246 GEOGEApnr of Palestine.
of David appears to be the western one, which Btande
near the Kallai, that is, the eo-called fort of David SlJD
m. The Zion's Gate is the modem one of the same
name ; and the Gate of Jehoshaphat is the eastern entrance,
which is near the valley of Jehoshaphat, i. e. the valley of
Kidron. It would thence appear that, at the time of
Rabbi Benjamin's visit, Jerusalem had no gate on the
north side.
In the year 5282, an Italian of Leghorn, whose name is
unknown, travelled through Palestine. Hia investigations
and remarks are, it is true, but briefly and simply given,
but are nevertheless here and there interesting, and are
attached as an appendix to the small work, D7B'T1* *n3B'
"The Praises of Jerusalem." The traveller relates, "Jeru-
salem has six gates : 1, Bab al Sebat, the Gate of the Tribes,
i. e. the one through which the pilgrims entered when
they went three times a year to Jerusalem, on the festivals
of Passover, Weeks, and Tabernacles ; 2, Bab al Amud ;
3, Bab al Katun, since in its neighbourhood much cotton
was spun and worked up ; and three other gates, not far
from Zion." Even at the present day the eastern gate is
called Bab al Sebat ; the northern one is called Bab al
Amud ; and the three n,ear Zion are termed the small
southern gate, not far from the ancient Dung Gate, the
Zion's Gate, and the Western Gate, which opens on the road
to Jaflh. But the Bab al Katun is unknown; yet it may
perhaps \ie the one now walled up, somewhat to the east
of Bab al Amud. This then proves that, before Sultan
Soliman erected the present wall of the city, in the year
5287 (1527), it had the gates of the present day. At
present Jerusalem has five gates : 1. at the south, on Mount
Zion, the Zion Gate, also called Bab al Chalil, and Bab
"Thj son, thy only one, whom thou lovcet." He lived, as Lia father had
dime, in Hebron; whence it miij properly be called Beth-Chalil, "the
house of laaac" (the beloved).
JERUSALEM. 247
Nebi David, gate of the prophet David, from the fact that
King David lived at Zion, and is entombed there also;
2, the gate situated to the east of the first, at the foot of
Mount Zion, the so-called Little Gate, near the site of the
ancient Dung Gate, and also named Bab al Megarbi, for
*3^yO, by changing Aia into Gain, because the interior of
the city, in the vicinity of this gate, is occupied only by
Mahomedans, who have emigrated hither from Africa (i. e.
the western coimtry, hence " the gate of the westerns") .
When the Arabs and Bedouins rebelled against Abraim
Pacha in 5594 (1834), he had this gate closed and walled
up; but it was again opened when, in 5601, Palestine
reverted to the Sultan of Constantinople. 3, At the east,
the Bab al Sebat ; 4, at the north, the Bab al Amud, " the
column gate," because it has a colonnade attached to it ;
300 paces to the east is a small walled up gate, but it is
not known when and why it was closed ; and 5, at the
west, the Bab al Jaffa, which opens on the Jaffa road.
On the eastern side of the city wall, just opposite the
great mosque on the temple moimt, called Al Sachara,
can be seen two large gates, close to each other, which are
walled up ; they are called by our brethren D^Omn H^tS^
" the gates of mercy." They are already mentioned in
Massecheth Soferim, 19, and are said to have been built
by King Solomon, as is also believed by Astori and Rabbi
Emanuel Riki, authors of the book IH^Sk m^}f "the Crown
of Elijah." But I have no doubt that they belong to a
much later period, since we perceive on the stones figiures,
drawings, and ornaments, of the Arabic fashion ; and their
style and character is such that they must to a surety have
been erected by the Arabs. The tradition may perhaps
be owing to an idea that here once stood the "gates of
mercy," erected by Solomon, but they can by no means be
themselves the remains of that high antiquity. I more-
over found traces of the oldest period only on the following
248 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
places : the Mourning Wall, or the OIVOH 7m3 the weBt
wall of the temple, of which I tthall speak more circum-
stantially hereafter ; the southwestern comer of tlie city
wall ; and the lower portion of David's Tower Sn SlJO
Kallai. These three are actual remains of that high an-
tiquity, on which is impressed the seal of truth ; but all
the other remains are the worka of later periods.
m Town
We nowhere find, except .in Josephus, any mention of
this subject, and although I searched our books every-
where with much accuracy and care, I could tlnd but
very meagre and unsatisfactory notices of the same. But
Josephus gives ua a circumstantial description of them.
He says, in his Bell. Jud., b. v., chap, iv., and in several
other passagoa, that Jerusalem was encircled with three
walls ; but when the city was protected by deep and im-
passable valleys it had but one. He says, moreover, in
another passage, that Jerusalem consisted of four mounts,
that is to say, it was built on four mounts ; to wit, Mount
Zion on the south ; Mount Moriah on the oast ; Bczetha
on the northeast (properly instead of Beth-Zetha, or Beth-
Chadetha, " new to^vn," Nmn changing n ch into X z, or
as others think Beth-Zoah HNIV H'J, which see), and
Acra Kipn the fort, on the northwest. He sajs farther,
in another place, Jerusalem was divided into the Upper,
Lower,* and New Town (Bezetha) ; that farther, the Ty-
ropoeon extended from without in a northern direction
* The piinnn pipi p'Sjjn pl» upper and lower markota often mentioned
in the Talomdio writings, for instance, in Tosephtah Chulin, iii. (In
Talmud Chulin, 62 a, for [v'Tyn piB' wo find ]y%'7} S'Sj Upper Galilee,
or, Upper District?); also in Tosephtah Sanhedrin, finia, which prores
that already in the time of Jeremiah, the divisions of Upper and Lower
Town were in use. See also Echa RabbetLi, to i. IC.
J
JSBUSALElf^ 249
through ilie city and separated Zion from Moriah and
Acra.
Concerning the walls he tells circumstantially (Bell.
Jud., b. v., chap. iv. § 2) : " Now of these three walls the
old one was hard to be taken, both by reason of the valleys,
and of that hill on which it was built, and which was above
them, &c. Now that wall began on the north, at the
tower called HippicuSy and extended as far as the place
called XiatuSy and then joining to the council-house, ended
at the west gallery (cloister) of the temple. But if we go
the other way westward, it began at the same place, and
extended through a place called BeihaOy to the gate of the
Essenes, and after that it went southward, having its bend-
ing above the foimtain Siloam, where it also bends again
towards the east, at Solomon's Pool, and reaches as far as
a certain place which they called Ophlasy where it was
joined to the eastern gallery (cloister) of the temple. The
second wall took its beginning firom that gate which they
called Oenndthy which belonged to the first wall ; it only
encompassed the northern quarter of the city and reached
as far as the tower Antonia. The beginning of the third
wall was at the tower Hippicus, whence it reached as far
as the north quarter of the city and the tower Psephinus,
and then was so far extended till it came over against the
monuments of Helena, which Helena was queen of Adia-
bene, the daughter of Izates; in her days it extended
farther to a great length, and passed by the sepulchral
caverns of the kings, and bent again at the tower of the
comer, at the monument which is called the Monwment of
the Fuller y and joined to the old wall, at the valley called
the Valley of Cedronr
He farther says, that as the population of Jerusalem
increased, and when also the weakest and most exposed
part of the city, Bezetha, to the north of the temple, was
built up. King Agrippa, at the time of Claudius Cadsar,
^ at
L
250 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
caused it to be surrounded with a very strong wall, 25
cubits high, and 10 cubits broad, and strengthened with
ninety towers. Several years were consumed in erecting
it. Here also stood the high tower Psepbinus, from which
one had a view as far as Arabia, Judaia, and the Great
(Mediterranean) Sea. Jo.sephus also relates in another
place that the first wall has sixty and the second but four-
teen towers.
Before proceeding with an explanation of these data of
Josephus, I find it highly necessary to trace out, if possible,
the position of the ancient Hippicua, since it is given by
Josephus as the starting point of his description ; and it
has therefore first to be ascertained before we can properly
define the position of the walls as given above.
No investigator has hitherto been able to give even
a mere approximation to a definition of the part of
the city wliere this tower formerly stood, and it is
universally put, although quite arbitrarily, liy all the
learned who desire to describe the ancient walls of Jeru-
salem, on the western side thereof, that is to say, on the
spot occupied by the modem Kallai, the so-called Tower
of David, whence it has become at present in a measure
the fashion to call the Kallai by the name of Hippicus, and
the walls of Jerusalem are thus traced from this starting
point. No one has hitherto been able to controvert this
hypothesis, because there were no counter proofs that
Hippicus had not stood on this spot.
I am therefore greatly rejoiced that I have succeeded,
by means of a careful investigation of our faithful and
credible writings, to obtain reliable data as to the true
position of the Hippicus of Josephus.
The Targumist Jonathan Ben Uziel, a scholar of the
famous Hillel the Elder (Sukkah, 28 a), lived in Jerusalem
at the time of King Herod, who erected this tower in honour
of his general, Hippicus, who had fallen in battle ; conse-
JERUSALEM. 251
quently we must accept his explanation on this subject as
correct, credible, and perfectly reliable. Now, on referring
to the Sxjjn 7"! JO Tower of Chananel of Jer. xxxi. 38, and
Zech. xiv. 10, we find that Jonathan renders it with 7"! JO
Dlp^fi Migdal Pikus, evidently Tower of Hippicus, whence
it is perfectly clear that this tower must have been erected
on the site of the ancient Chananel tower ; for who could
know more about it than this learned man, who lived on
the spot when Herod built this structure ?
If we now investigate carefully the position of the Tower
of Chananel, as given in Nehemiah, we find it placed to the
northeast of the Prison Gate, or Jeremiah's Grotto ^yn
mjDOil? also called the Archer's Court, so that the north-
em boundary of Jerusalem would naturally extend from
the Tower of Chananel, on the northeast, to the Comer
Gate at the northwest (Jer. xxxi. 38). Wherefore it is
subject to no doubt, but that we must seek for Hippicus
in a northern direction. It farther appears, from Jos.,
Bell. Jud., book vi. chap, vi., that the three strong
towers, of which Hippicus was one, were situated on the
northern side of the city, and not far distant from the
fort Antonia, which was confessedly to the north of the
temple. In a northerly direction, above the Grotto of
Jeremiah, is foimd a high rocky hill, since it is at the foot
of this hill that the grotto is, properly speaking, cut out of
the rock ; and here is an imusually favourable site for a
tower, and one may even trace some vestiges which betoken
that at some time a strong building or a fort must have
stood here ; wherefore I am almost positive that I may
freely assume that Hippicus was erected on this spot.
It is a most diflScult problem to determine anything
accurate and certain from the above description of Jose-
phus ; since with all our exertions we could scarcely dis-
cover any remains of all these ancient walls ; wherefore
we must be satisfied with something "probable," or "not
unlikely."
252 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
I would therefore hazard the following opinion ; The
first wall of Josephus ia undoubtedly the one which was
built by Nehemiah, in whose time the fort or tower of
Antonia was still outside of the city ; so that the northern
wall of the temple, that is to say, that of the temple
mount, which was, according to the authority of the Tal-
mud, as I shall discuss more circumstAntially hereafter,
500 cubits, or 1000 feet, in breadth, formed at the same
time part of the northeastern wall of the city, which ex-
tended yet farther to the north ; so that the eastern
city wall only commenced, properly speaking, from the
northwest comer of the temple mount, and extended then
to the Tower of Chananel, which was exactly opposite tliis
point of the mount, in a northern direction, and was thus
the proper northeast termination of the city wall. The
part where aftenvarde the fort Antonia stood, and which
was to the north of the temple mount, was therefore outside
of tha city ; and it was only at a much later period, at the
time of the Maccabees, that this fort was connected with
the city and united with the temple. Hippicus, not far
from Jeremiah's Grotto, is therefore exactly north lixim
the northwestern corner of the temple mount, or the wall
of the temple, since we comprise under the worda temple,
temple wall, temple huilduigs, the wliole of the temple
mount, with all its buildings, walls, &c. This now will
explain the assertion of Josephus, that the first wall ex-
tended from Hippicus to Xistus, which, accordingly, must
have been situated between the temple mount and the
northeastern termination of the wall, that is to say, from
north to south, and terminated at the western gallery or
cloister, which means at the northwestern comer of the
temple mount ; but that from this point onward, the wall
of the temple mount formed also that of the city. On the
other side, that is, in a western direction, the wall ex-
tended from Hippicus towards the upper Gichon, then
ran southwardly around Mount Zion, then northerly, and
JERUSALEM. 25S
again southerly, and formed the double wall (D^nOlh) J
ran next around the fountain of Siloah, thence past the
lower pool, till it reached the Ophel, and terminated finally
at the eastern gallery of the temple. This was the circuit
of Jerusalem at the time of Nehemiah, and in this wall
must we look for all the gates mentioned in the same
authority.
The second wall was erected at a later period, and I
presume that it is the same which Jonathan the Maccabee
caused to be built within the city, in order to separate
Acra, where his enemies, the Grecians, were posted, fix)m
the other parts of Jerusalem, as Josephus tells us. At
that time, however, the fort of Antonia was already united
with the city and the temple. I suppose, also, that this
wall ran from east to west, and that the Gate of Gennath
was between the Valley and the Comer Gate, although it
must have been a later structure than the time of Nehe-
miah, as it is not mentioned by him ; and that from this
point the wall ran in a northeasterly direction, till it
reached Antonia, or, more correctly speaking, to where
the first wall came in contact with the fort of Antonia^
or it may have passed the first wall, so that it (the second)
reached as far as this point. This wall therefore separated
Acra at the north from the other parts of Jerusalem.
The third was a structure of a still later period ; it also
commenced at Hippicus, ran to the north in a somewhat
western direction, and bent then easterly till it touched the
valley of Kidron; extended next to the south to the
northeast comer of the temple mount, or more correctly
speaking, to the eastern part of the fort Antonia ; since
this tower was already connected with the temple, as we
understand by " the old wall near the valley of Cedron,** of
Josephus, the fort of Antonia.
I will next mention the few vestiges which I have been
able to find of the several names mentioned by Josephus.
254 GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
Bethso 18 probably, as I have etatcd already, synony-
mous with Nnin n*3 BctU-Chadetha "the new town."
Some derive it fi-om Beth-Zoah, " dirt or dung." Accord-
ing to the assertion of the Yerushabni Sanhedrin x. and
Vayikra Rabbah sxxvi., the vicinity of the upper spring
of Gichon (Isaiah vii, 3) is considered as a place of
filth, impurity, aud uncleanness, and might, accordingly,
mark the site of Beth-Zoilb ; but Josephus places it at the
northeast, not at the west, as this hypothesis would do.
Geunath. In Maasseroth ii. § 5, wc find mentioned a
Gumath Veradim D'Tll flJJ, ''a rose garden" in Jerusa-
lem, which was situated to the west from the temple
mount, according to the Toscphoth Yom Toba on the
passage ; aud it is probable enough that this Giunath, gar-
den, ia identical with the Geunath of Josephus.
Monuments of Helena. Josephus, Antiq., book xs.,
chap, ii., says that the sepulchral monument of this queen
was 3 stadia (aliout one-tliird of a mile) from Jerusalem.
More than this is not known of this structure.
Sepulchral caverns of the Kings. lu Eruhin, 61 b, is
mentioned " the great cavern of Zedekiah." In Midrash
Tauchumah to Niunbers iii., it ia placed at 12 mill or
8 English miles, and in Midrash Rabbah to the same pas-
sage at 18 mill or 12 English miles from Jerusalem. The
traveller from Leghorn of the year 5282, already quoted
above says : " Not far from the Bab al Amud, is the cave
of Zedekiah, which extends under ground to the mountains
near Jericho. Several persons told me, that they them-
selves had walked a mite in the same. It is so spacious
that a man on horseback with a lance in his hand, can
ride through it quite comfortably." I now believe that
this cave of Zedekiah, wherein it is probable that at a
later period graves and caverns had been cut out of the
rock, may denote the sepidchral caverns of the kings of
4
JERUSALEM. 256
Josephus. The present sepulchral monument, or rather the
cave in which it is, is that of the rich Kalba Seboa, who
is mentioned in Gittin, 56 a, and which is five-eighths of a
mile north from the Bab al Amud,* is held to be the cave
of Zedekiah, and consequently identical with the sepul-
chres of the kings. About half a mile to the northwest
of the cave of the Kalba Seboa, there is a sepulchral cave,
consisting of two chambers, one above the other, and cut
out of the solid rock; in both the chambers, there are
about seventy niches hewn out in the rocky walls thereof
and the whole presents a very beautiful and remarkable
work of antiquity .f It is commonly called the Cave of the
seventy Sanhedrin |mniD D*yDB^> and is supposed by
some to be the sepulchral caverns of the kings of Jose-
phus; but this hypothesis is without any satisfactory
proof, and even the name it bears of " the cave of the
seventy Sanhedrin" is also quite arbitrary. This name
probably was given to it, because it has about seventy
niches, although they are quite empty, which may have
led people to suppose that seventy elders were buried here.
But who, and of what time were they ? as there were
always seventy such elders in Israel. I could find no
trace for this appellation in our ancient writings, and only
found it in quite recept works.
As Josephus makes no mention of an eastern wall, it
appears, as was said already, that the eastern wall of the
temple (i. e. of the temple mount) formed likewise the
* In the year 5607 (1847), the Arabs, on digging near this grave,
found a deep yanlt full of gigantic human bones, which excited the asto-
;^ishment of every one at the great stature of the persons, the remains
of whom they were. The Pacha forbade farther digging, and the cave
was again closed up.
f Since I have inspected this beautiful vault with its niches cut in the
walls, I understand clearly the Mishna of Baba Bathra vi., § 8, which
describes the ancient manner of forming sepulchral vaults with their
niches one above and alongside the other.
»
26G GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
eastern city wall, as it is still the case at the present day;
he says likewise in another place, that the arches, vaults,
and outbuildings of the ea-stern temple wall extended
beyond the valley of Kidron, as it passed beneath them.
The fact that the eastern wall of the city and temple
were the same, may be derived also from Talmud Zeba^
chim, 116 h, and Tosephtab Kelim. i.
It is true, that Josephus does not state in the passage
quoted, that the city wall passed over the valley of Kidron,
and reached to the southern part of the Mount of Olives ;
but it is stated in another place (Jewish War, book v.,
chap, vi.), that "Simon held in possession the upj>er town,
the great wall as far as Kidron, and from the old wall all
the part which extends east of Siloah, up to the palace of
Monobazes, and the spring of Siloah ;* Akra, the lower
town, as far as the Palace of Helena, the mother of Mono-
bazes" (Izates).f
That what Josephus terms " which extends east of
Siloah," is already, without doubt, on the Mount of Olives,
We find, likewise, in 1 Maccabees xii. 37, " The wall
which was to the east, beyond the valley of Kidron, had
fallen down, and they buUt therefore this part of the wall,
and called it Caphnntfta!' I presume that this word is
derived from the Chaldean word Cnpfinaiot/i (D'*?pl DVJflD)
which is synonymous with Ziid, a species of palms, as
stated in chapter i., article Zin. Tliis name, however,
signifies a spot on Mount Olivet, as 1 shall state more par-
ticularly hereafter, which was not far from Beth-Pagi
* In another pasauge, Josephua telle that the epring of Siloah, outside
of the town, was in tho posscBsion of the Itoinana. Simon, therefore,
could uot have occupied tbo spring of Siloah itself, but only the wall and
tho part of i\ie city which was not far from the spring, which being out
of the circuit of tho walls, waa in the possesBion of tho enemy.
"t" They point out, even at present, a largo ruin north of the t«mpie
mount, in the district colled Bab nl Chotta, which the Jewa call, &um &
tradition they have, " the Palace of Helena."
JERUSALEM. 267
♦ Jfl n*3 ; the name was derived from the circumstance that
there, on the declivity of the mount, were found some olive
trees and pahns D^TpT HVifiai D^iKH ♦Jfi, " The Pajg6 of
figs, and Caphnaioth of dates ;'! hence Caphnatha and Pagi.
It is also stated distinctly in Shebuoth, 16 a, likewise
in the Tosephtah cited there, that a part of Mount Olivet,
naturally referring to the southern part thereof, in the
vicinity of the spring of Siloah, was actually within the
city wall. A part likewise of the just^named Beth-Pagi
was within the city, as I shall prove farther down. At
the present day even you can find traces of a wall, which
ran in a southern direction, near the village Selivan,
which is on the declivity of Mount Olivet, close to the
Siloah spring.
I have not succeeded, as \ must confess, to discover
many remains of the ancient walls, although I have read
much in the works of several modems, that they had
actually discovered many remains, whilst they at the
same time describe the direction of the walls according
to their own assumed ideas, explain and expound the
words of Josephus in many ways, setting out from the
erroneous, assumptipn that the* modern Kallai is identical
with the ancient Hippicus, and fix the course of the walls
£h>m this principle, and then fancy they can discover re-
mains of antiquity, and endeavour to impose, their belief
on others. I have no doubt, that no learned man, who is
a friend of trutii, will or can contest Iny proof that Hippi-
cus must "have been on the north, and not at the west,
since the Migdal Chananel occupied a northern position.
Although this view must upset some darling scheme of
certain scholars, the fact cannot be gainsaid, unless men
are determined to dispute altogether the* correctness and
truth of the learned Jonathan, who lived at the time when
Hippicus was built. .
The present city walls occupy only in a few places the
17
258 GEOGRATITY OP PALESTINE.
site of the ancient ones. Only the southeastern, and
nearly tlie entire western appear to me to stand on the
old sites; whereas the present northern, northwestern,
and southern walls stand where none other was before.
The modem Jerusalem is therefore considerably smaller
than the ancient one. Josepbus also says, that the an-
cient city was SSstadiaincircumference, thatiB4J EngUsh
miles ; whereas at present it is but 3 miles, to wit, 5152 ells
(each of a Uttle less than 3 feet, or 1 yard English) ; the
ancient city extended farther to the north, and a little less
to the south than the present,
I l«lieve that I may therefore boldly maintain that it
is clearly proved, from what has been said, that the alleged
grave of Christ is quite wrong; as it must have been in-
disputably without the city, at a distance at least of 100
paces, or 50 cubits, according to Baba Bathra, ii,, § 9,
whereas, the so-called holy sepulchre is pointed out as
being in the city, not far from the ancient temple, exactly
opposite to the northwest corner of the t«mple mount ;
although many pious men, who believe in all the Christian
legends, take all possible pains to place it beyond the limits
of the ancient city ; and maintain, therefore, that this
alleged position was beyond tlie first wall ; that Hippicus
is the present Kallai, and that the first wall ran from the
Kallai to the temple from west to east. This idea is so
ridiculous, that it deserves no refutation; for Jerusalem
must have had, in that case, a truly wonderful shape and
size ; for it could not have been more than 150 cubita
(300 feet) in breadth from south to north, excluding Zion,
if the northern Une extended from the Kallai to the temple.
It appears even from 1 Kings xviii. 17, that the city wall
extended in the time of Hezekiah to the vicinity of the
Upper Pool, since those stationed on the wall could hear
the speakers who stood there. Any one therefore en-
dowed with common sense must accordingly acknowledge,
JEBUSALEM. 259
that the alleged locality of the so-called holy sepulchre
rests on an impossible idea, and that the whole matter is
nothing but a fabulous tradition of the pious but deceiving
Empress Helena, and of her equally deceptive priests, who
discovered this grave, and had a structure erected over it.
MORIAH, THE TEMPLE MOUNT fl'^H "^H.
This mount, which rises 141 feet above the valley of
Kidron, and 2280 above the level of the sea, appears as a
mount only on the east and the south sides, on which it
is bounded by the valleys of Kidron and Bephaim ; but
on the north and west sides it is level with the other
ground near it. This is owing to the many destructions
which Jerusalem has had to endure, which caused the
depressions on these two sides to be filled up with rubbish
and ruins.
According to Middoth, ii., § 1, it was 500 cubits, say
1000 feet long and broad. But I found, by actual measure-
ment, the present breadth fix)m east to west 995 feet, and
the length £h>m north to south 1498 feet. The discrepancy
is, however, easily accounted for ; since the present place
includes the space once occupied by the fort Antonia, which
was to the north,^ and which being now united and included
in the temple mount, makes this a third longer than it
originally wa^.
This mount, therefore, now forms on its summit a flat
and roomy place of the above dimensions, i. e. 1498 feet
long by 995 in breadth. It is called
MEKOM HAMIKDASH^ tSTlpDil DIDD
That is, the site of the ancient temple, in Arabic, Al
Charim, "The Holy." It is enclosed on all four sides
with a high wall and buildings; and the southern and
eastern parts of this enclosure form, at the saime time, the
city wall in these directions. The western part is the
260
GEOGBAPHT OF PALESTINE.
well-known and revered fragment of the wall of the holy
tc-mple mount, and is named the '3*iyon Sno Kothel
Hama'arahi, i. e. ilie we«t luaU. It ie sixty feet in heiglit,
and has twenty-three rows of f<tone. The nme lower rows
consist ol' large etones, three to four cubits long, and two
cubits broad and high. The upix?r fourteen rows, how-
ever, consist of smaller stones; and hence it would appear
that this upper part belongs to a later i>eriod, and was
perhaps built by Caliph Omar. It is also called ''the
mourning wall," since thousands of IsraeUtes constantly
deplore there and weep for the fall of Jerusalem. It is
touching to see how every Jew bends his head, moaning
and reverentially, at the foot of this holy wall, and lifts
up his tearful eyes to heaven, and exclaims, sobbing, " How
long yet, O Lord !" This spot is visited by travellers of
all nations; and no one can ever quit the place unmoved,
and with indifference. It is no vain fancy ! I have in-
deed often seen there iion-IsraehtiBh travellers melt into
tears. No one can deacrilje the feelings experienced on
this sacred spot. One paints to himself in spirit the former
exalted state of the Israelitish people in the highest de-
gree, and then feels suddenly that it is stmk into the dust
and robbed of its glory; but his imagination places again
before him the future exaltation — he feels himself inspired,
and exclaims, "Surely this is the gate of heaven!" (Gen.
xxviii. 17.) This wall is visited by all our brothers on
every feast and festival; and the large space at its foot is
often so densely filled up. that all cannot perform their
devotions here at the same time. It is also visited, though,
by less nnmliers, on every Friday afternoon, and by some
nearly every day. No one is molested in these visits by
the Mahomedans, as we have a very old firman fi-om the
Sultan of Constantinople that the approach shall not be
denied to us, though the Ihrte obtains for this privilege an
especial tax, which is, however, quite insignificant.
JERUSALEM. 261
In the midst of this plain B^npOil DlpO is a square plat-
form, fourteen feet in height, in the middle of which stands
the large mosque Al Sachra, i. e. the hard stone, referring
to the n^HB^ pN which is in the midst of it. It was built
in 4397 (637) by Caliph Omar. This octagonal building
is sixty feet in length, and has on four sides entrances and
outer halls. On each of these four sides there are six
windows, but seven on the other four. A large cupola is
extended over the whole building, and is ninety feet high
and forty in diameter ; it is covered over with square
leaden plates. In the walls, near the windows, there are
introduced glazed bricks, green, red, black, and white-
coloured, which reflect in many beautiful rays the solar
light, and give the building a magnificent appearance.
The inner walls are painted white ; and there are in the
interior twenty-four columns, each twenty feet in height,
and sixteen of which support the great cupola. The inte-
rior middle portion of this mosque is enclosed and barred
oflF by means of an iron railing. The Mahomedans go as
far as this railing to perform their devotions, with their
faces turned to the south. Within this tailing is a small
wooden enclosure, wherein is the Temple Stone Jl^flB^ \2H
Eben Shetiyah, or "foundation stone" (Yoma v., § 2). It
is a large, round, white stone, which is about thirty feet
in circumference, and is covered over with red satin cloth.
It is only fastened to the floor on one side, and is propped
up below with pieces of wood, that it may not fall down ;
but beneath it the soil is dug away, and it appears to
hang in the air. Its elevation from the floor is about ten
feet. (Compare with Yoma v., § 2, where it is said that
it was elevated but three fingers' breadth from the floor,
which affords, therefore, a clear proof that the temple
mount has been dug down about ten feet.) The Mahome-
dans reverence this stone as a holy object, alleging that it
came from the garden of Eden, and that Abraham sat upon
262 GEOGRAPHY OP PALESTINE.
it when he waa about sacrificing hia son laasie. Thej even
go 80 far as to point out the traces of five of Abraham's
fingers. Beneath this mosque there arc in all directions
subterraneoua caveras and passages ; but no one ventures
to investigate, or even to enter them,* One large subter-
ranean passage leads from this mosque to that of Al Achsa,
i. e. The Farthest, the most northern mosque, since the
Arabs Iiave three especially sacred mo-sques, one in Mekka,
the second in Medina, and the third in Jerusalem, which
is the farthest to the north. Under the tenn Al Achsa,
or the most northern mosque, that of Al Sachra is included,
as they are considered to form but one mosque. Al Achsa
is situated in the southern end of the temple place, and is
a large and very long building, and is called by the Jews
noSt!' tcno " the School of Solomon," though I could not
ascertain whence the uame is derived. Near this mos(|ue
is a very large cavern, wherein are found columns and
ruins, equalled only by those of Baal-bek and Tadmor
(Palmyra). There is also met with there a large stone
sarcophagus, having a large and broad stone cover. No
one knows what it contains, and none have yet ventured,
or rather been able, to open it. It ajjpears that all these
ruins and remarkable monuments of antiquity date from
the period "bf King Solomon.
On all sides of the temple place, are seen Mahomedan
dervishes, who come from Barbary, in Africa (who have
this prerogative above all the dervishes, owing to a dis-
tinction which they once obtained in a siege and battle at
Jerusalem), armed with spears, standing sentinel day and
• If we note carefully the poBition of the mnsqiic Al Sachra, we shall
find that it is aituttted nearest to the west end of the t«niplc mount, eoiae-
what more disUnt from the northern end, farther yet from the eastern,
and the farthest from the Boutheru part of the same. See Togcphotb
Yome Tob to Middoth, commencement of chop. ii.
JERUSALEM. 263
night, to prevent any profane person, i, e., any one but a
Mahomedan, from entering on this holy spot.
The Mount of Olives or Olivet D^fltH in also •in
nnB^On, Arabic, Djebl Tur, forms the highest elevation of
the whole environs of the holy city, from which it is sepa-
rated only by the valley of Kidron. It is 2555 feet above
the level of the sea, and it has three summits. On the
acclivity of the southern summit, near the village of
Selivan, which part is called in Scripture n^HB^On *in
" The mount of vexation or corruption" (2 Kings xxiii.
13), is a spot which the Arabs call Beth-Hana, probably
the HTil n*3 Beth-Hina, of Pesachim, 23 a, also called
1i*n *133 Kefar, i. e. village of Hinu, in end of Ketuboth.
Some consider the village Azaria, which is half a mile
southeast from the Mount of Vexation, as Beth-Hina or Be-
thaniah ; but it is unquestionably the same with Azal,* as I
* This gives me an opportunity to explain a passage in the Bible
which many learned men have attempted, but not succeeded to elucidate
satisfactorily. It is Zechariah xiv. 5, SvK ^H onn ':i ;?U' O nn NU Dn031
min^ l^D n'Tjr ^d'3 nfyin 'o^^ onoj niB?«D dhdji. We find in several
Oriental copies instead of DflD J^ Vehastem, " you will fly," DflDJI
• • • __ • • •
Yenistam, ''and it shall be stopped up." Jonathan has the same
reading, and explains it in the same manner in his Chaldean Paraphrase
(see also Kimchi). If this be assumed, however, we cannot explain the
nn K'J " valley of my mountain," nor what relation the splitting of the
Mount of Olives in twain has to do with the earthquake in the time of
Uzziah. But I think I have found the key to this passage, and will
quote for this end the following passage from Josephus, Antiq., book ix.,
chap. X., being a part of the history of Uzziah : '' The king was highly
nettled at this, and threatened to put them^ to death if they spoke a word
more. Immediately the earth trembled, and the roof of the temple opened,
through which a beam of the sun darted full upon the face of the king,
who from that instant became a leper. This prodigy was followed by
another : near a certain place before the city, named Eroge, the one half
of a mountain that looked westward was torn from the other half, and
rolled for the space of four furlongs, till it stopped to the eastward of it,
by which means the road was blocked up, and the king's gardens covered
with rubbish." I do not doubt but that this remarkable event is alluded
uiu eiirbU4UttJk.i}.
1
1
i^^H
I^H
Gr«Ye of Zeehariah
r ^^^^'J
F::^W— -r
GravB oF Jchoshaphat
I
»
Tonb oE Absalom
PuliU»h(d iy A Han, PfiiliJdphi
stadia or 25 English miles firom the holy city
JERUSALEM. 265
this monument appears to belong to the Gothic style of
the middle age, and not to that gray period of antiquity.
Near this is found a large cave with tall columns, which
represent windows, by which I mean that through the
space between the columns, which are placed close to the
sides of the cave, the light is shed into the interior from
without. This cave is called n*t!^3nn n*2, English version,
the " several house " of 2 Kings xv. 5. Near this, again^
is a very handsome square structure, hollow within, and
cut out of the rock ; the upper part gradually diminishes
till it forms, so to say, a pointed roof. It is called 1^
O'htff^H "Absalom's Monument" (2 Sam. xviii. 18) ; but
I can scarcely adopt this traditional nomenclature ; since
the " King's Valley" ^Son poy where Absalom actually
constructed his own monument, was not near Jerusalem,
but in the plain of Jordan, as, according to Bereshith
Rabbah to Genesis xiv. 7, the valley of Siddim, Sukkoth^
ha-Melech (King's), and Shaveh, are all one and the same,
or the modem Al Gor; wherefore we must look for Absar
lom's column in that neighbourhood. I also found in
Josephus, Antiq., book vii., chap, ix., that this monument
was a marble column in the King's Valley, and two stadia*
from Jerusalem. But this monument, now called that of
Absalom, has nothing in common with that of Josephus,
for it is neither a column nor is the material marble.
THE SPRINa (fountain) OP SILOAH mS'KT \y EN SmLOAGH
Is also called pn*J Gichon, in 1 Kings i. 33, which is
given by the Chaldean paraphrase of Jonathan with Shi-
loach. This spring is found near the village of Selivan in
a deep rocky cavern, on the foot of a rocky mount, on
which formerly the Ophel stood. It first runs under
ground in a southwestern direction, then issues forth near
* I presume it ought to read two hundred, and Al Gor is actually 200
stadia or 25 English miles from the holy city
L
2bG GEOGKAPIIT OF PALESTINE.
the lower pool (wliich sec), waters the gardens of the vil-
lage Selivan, and is gradually lost in its farther course.
This spring also existed in David's time, in its present
position in the valley of Kedron, as wo read in 1 Kings i.
33, " And carry him dmon to Gichon," and v. 3o, " Then
ye shall come up after him." But we fuid also mentioned
an upper Gichon spring, in 2 Chron. sxsii. 30, which was
situated undoubtedly near the upper pool (which see) ; the
water of this upper spring, Shiloach or Gichon, ran south-
wardly through the Wady Djurad, where the modem pools
are, and turning to Zion, passed through the Wady Re-
phaim, which, as I have already stated, was the Pass to the
Fullei-'s Field, down into the Kidron valley, where it united
with the Lower Siloah near En-Rogel. From the above it
will appear that there were two springs of Siloah. the upper
one of which, however, does not exist any more at the
present day.
We find in Holy Writ that Hezekiah caused the Upper
Gichon to be stopped up (2 Chron. ssxii. 2, 3, 30), and
had the water brought into the city* (2 Kings xx. 20) ,
* The passage of 2 Chron. &xxn. 8, secnis to contain a contradiction ;
it is said there that it was Ilczckiab nho stopped np the nat^'rs of the
Upper Oiuhon spring, and led tliem westward down tfl the city of David.
If now, he stopped up all the wells, springs, and water-courses (ibid. 3, 4),
that the kings of Assyria should not find any water, why should ho then
conduct the water of the Upper Gichon to the west, in the direction of
the citj of David, unquestionably without the town, that they might
nevertheless find water 1 It is said farther, in another passage, that Ucze-
kiah conducted the water into the city, which no doubt refers to the water
of the Upper Gichon, which he covered up so that it should not run without,
and only diverted its course into the city ; and still it is rclateil as above,
that he led the water down to the city of David, not into the city itself?
It is at the same time to be remarked that the water of the spring took
le already before the time of Hezekiah, since it could run in no
Other direction, than into the valley of Kidron; what need was there
then of conducting it again ?
I therefore boldly maintain that the passage has another moaning, and
. ^
JERUSALEM. 267
I gave myself a great deal of trouble to find out if possible
the position of this subterranean water-course. I investi-
gated many cisterns, and I discovered at length that the
water of the cistern, which is situated between the temple
mount and Kallai, in the direction where formerly was
situated the Tyropoeon of Joseph us, was exactly like the
water of the Lower Siloah spring in taste, weight, and pur-
gative quality. The owners of this cistern also assured
me that even in a continuous long absence of rain the
water is scarcely ever entirely dried up in it. Whence I
would clearly conclude that it must stand in some con-
nexion with the subterraneous channel of the Upper Gi-
chon. About 25 paces from my present dwelling, is the
bath called Chamam al Shaafe, on the western declivity
of the temple mount. There is found a very deep cistern,
the water of which is just like that of the spring of Siloah ;
and I think it therefore certain that the former aqueduct
of Hezekiah is now below the surface of the ground in this
direction ; although it formerly ran uncovered through the
city, as we read in Yerushalmi Chagigah, i., that the Shi-
loach ran through the middle of the city (Jerusalem).
The learned Azulai mentions in his D^SnJH H^Qlff " The
names of the Great," fol. 30 6, that as late as the time of
the great Cabbalist Rabbi Chayim Vital, who lived in
5340 (1580), one could hear near the Kallai or David's
Tower, a strong subterraneous rushing of running water,
which was represented as the ancient aqueduct of King
Hezekiah.
that nonS 0117^1 " be led tbem downward," does not refer to Hezekiah at
all, but to the spring of Gichon itself, which is of the masculine gender
in Hebrew ; and I would therefore translate it '< And he, Hezekiah,
stopped up the source of the waters of the Upper Gichon, which (spring)
conducted them westward as far as the city of David ;" which would there-
fore be merely a description of the nature of the spring, which poured its
water into the Kidron valley ; [whence Hezekiah may have led it into
the city itself. — ^Translator.]
268 GEOGRAPHY OF PALKSTINE.
This investigation also proves that though both springs
are somewhat far apart, one being in the valley of Kidron,
the other on the height of Gichon, they must still have
but one source, since the water of both ia exactly of the
same nature and quality.
THE 8PB1NU ETAM DB'y \']!, Oil NF.PHTOACII ninS).
(Joshua XI, 9.)
In the Scriptures we nowhere find any mention of a
spring Etara, but of a city of that name in 2 Chron. xi.
6 : "He built Beth-Lechem, Etam, and Tekoa." This
town, therefore, must have been situated not far from
Beth-Lechem and Tekoa, Josephus places it at GO stadia,
74 English miles from Jerusalem, and says that in that
vicinity there are many springs and an aqueduct, which
goes to Jerusalem. It must therefore have stood with-
out question near the old Castle of al Burak, where is a
large spring, the water of which ia carried hither (Jeru-
salem), through means of canals. Josephus, Bell. Jud.,
book ii., chap, siv., makes the direction and course of this
aqueduct to be 300 stadia, or 37J English miles, and in
his Antiq., book xviii., chap, iv., 200 stadia, or 25 English
miles; but both data are evidently wrong, and must be
errors of transcribing ; for the direct distance is but 60
stadia, and if we even allow much for the curves of the
aqueduct, which are naturally deviations from the direct
line, it could hardly have been longer than 100 stadia.
This aqueduct extends now from the spring Etam near
Al Burak, towards Beth-Lechem, then in a northerly
direction to the vicinity of Jerusalem, turns then some-
what southwesterly from Zion, passes the Wady Djurd
and turns towards Mount Zion, encompasses the same on
the south, then on the east ; turns next to tlie north, and
entered the city near the small southern gate Bab al
Megarbi, runs to the temple mount, near the great mosque
Al Sachra, where it issues forth through a tubular box,
JERUSALEM. 269
neax the Mahomedan court-room Al Machkam6, in an outer
hall. As the Mahomedans were engaged this year, 5605
(1845), in clearing a space near the West Wall ^y^J^DH
/niDj they came accidently to a large subterranean cave,
and a spacious and ancient structure, in which is a large
reservoir of this Etam aqueduct, whence the water passes
into the tubular box. Sultan Soliman conducted this Etam
water also to the buildings on the west side of the teniple
mount, and to several other places; and there are still
seen in all directions on several of these ancient tubes
Arabic inscriptions.
SELIMAN ABN ALIM SENA 943 AL CHADJBA,
That is, Seliman, son of Alim, in the year 943 of the
Chadjra (Hegira), or the Mahomedan era, which is 5297,
A. M. (1537). Such a tube, constructed out of large, strong
stones, and covered with ornaments, and supjplied with
the above inscription, is near my residence, which is
situated on the western part of the temple mount.
These tubes are without water already these forty years ;
and only in the Machkame the water flowed at the time I
came hither, in the year 5593 (1833) ; but a year later,
when the Bedouins and Arabs rebelled against Abraim
Pasha, these barbarians went in their fury so far as to cut
oflF and thereby destroy this beautiful and beneficent most
ancient aqueduct. It remained useless till the year 5604
(1844), when the pasha of our city had the above fountain
again restored ; and even the one near my house was also
repaired in the year 5607, and I was rejoiced to be able
to obtain the water from it.
It appears that this aqueduct existed already in the time
of Joshua. It is probable that an opening was made in it
to the west of Mount Zion, so that passers by might draw
water from it. The same is the case at the present day
in niany places, and I have seen a large one to the west
270 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
of Mount Zion. I therefore believe myself authorized to
assume that this aqueJuct was called, on the spot in ques-
tion, Me Nephtoach niDSJ '0* " the opened water" (see
Joshua XV. 9), as Rashi also explains in this passage, "this
means the spring Etam." It is also probably referred to
in 2 Sam. v. 8, " Whoever smiteth the Jebusites and
toucheth the aqueduct ;" which means who shall be able to
cut off and destroy the supply of water, which furnished
this necessary of life to the Jebnsites, who will then be
compelled to yield through the want of water.
It is also the same which was led into the outer court of
the holy temple, and supplied it with the water necessary
for the then sacrificial service, as said in Pesachira, 64 a.
The Sea of Solomon noStl' 0' of 1 Kings vii. 44, also re-
ceived its water from this a^iueduct, for which see Yoma,
37 ff.
Let us quote here the description of the ambassadors of
Ptolemy, king of Egj-pt, which they gave to their muster
after their return home from their journey to the holy
city Jerusalem :
"The temple has its front to the east, and its back to
the west ; its whole floor is covered with marble. At the
depth of nearly five-eighths of a mile under ground are
found a nmnbcr of aqueducts, which are constructed with
an astounding degree of artistical skill. They are lined
with lead, carefully closed up, and covered over with earth
to a great depth. These artificial channels and aqueducts
run under ground, in various directions, to all parts of the
temple. In the floor of the sanctuary, and near the pave-
ment, are constructed many secret openings, which can be
opened and shut up at pleasure, and which cannot be
observed by any one, without it be the priests and the
temple servants. If these orifices be now opened, the
water rushes in from all sides, and the marble floor of
the sanctuary is wa^ed clean of the blood of the sacrifices,
JERUSALEM. 271
if it be ever so much, and thus cleansed of itself, and in
the easiest manner. There can be, moreover, never a want
of water in these artificially constructed tubes, as it is
conducted hither from a large natural spring (Etanx),
which to a certainty can never dry it.
" I cannot omit also to report to thee, 0 my king, that
the people showed themselves ready with remarkable
kindness to conduct me to the chief point of this aqueduct.
One day, namely, I was conducted half a mile outside the
city of Jerusalem,* when one of those who accompanied
me told me to stand still and to listen awhile ; and when
I heard the fearful rushing of the water beneath my feet,
I thought to myself how magnificent must be the work of
this aqueduct." (See Meore Enaim of Rabbi Meir De
Rossi, fol. 15 (?t.)
We have also to remark that this aqueduct extends
somewhat up hill from the valley below, and reaches even
to the middle of Mount Zion. This is owing to the fact
that the spring, the source of this aqueduct, near Burak,
lies somewhat higher. This was already remarked by
our wise men in Talmud Yoma, 31 a: " Abaye said. This
proves that the spring Etam must lie about twenty-three
cubits higher than the floor of the temple, since the water
in the aqueduct could be conducted this height above the
floor."
POOLS.
There are in the holy city and its environs the following
five pools :
I. The Upper Pool of 2 Kings xviii. 17, Isaiah vii. 3,
and xxxvi. 2. It is called by the Arabs Birkat Hamuli.
It is about 500 paces west from the Kallai, and is about
* The spot here spoken of was probably the opening in the aqueduct,
the Me Nephtoach, which is about half a mile from the city.
272 GEOGBAPHT OF PALESTINE.
100 cubits (200 feet) long and broad, and 15 cubits (30
feet) deep.
II. The Lower Pool of laaiah xxii. 9, also called (ibid.
11) the Old Pool, likewise the Siloah Pool in Nehemiabiii.
15, .It lies in the valley Ben-Hinnom, where the Siloah
(Sbiloach) issues out of the rocky mount, the ancient
Ophel, and then falls into the pool, which is considerably
flmaller than the first, and then conies out again from the
same.
III. The Pool of Hezekiah. This was constructed by
Ilezekiah, and produced liy conducting the water into the
city (2 Kings xx. 20), This pool, which is within the
city, to the northeast of the Kallai, is of the same size with
the Upper Pool, and is connected with it by means of a
canal, which supplies it with water.
IV. The potd which lies to the east-northeast of the Bab
al Sebat, which appears, however, to be a modern struc-
ture, as no mention is made of it either in the Scriptures
or the Talmud.
V. The pool which is to the north of, and near to the
temple mount, and in which, in ancient times, as Josephus
reports, the animals destined for sacrifice were washed.
Besides these five, there are yet found two ruined pools
to the northwest of Mount Zion, in the valley called Wady
Djurad, which is situated between the heights of Gichon
and Wady Rafaat. The northern one was constructed in
the year 693 of the Chadjra (Hegira), or 5051, a. m. (1291),
by Sultan Muhmed ben Kialian, as I have learned from
the inscriptions, on the walls of this pool; hence its name
Birkat Sultan. The southern, however, was built by
Sultan Soliman. in the year 943 of the Chadjra, i. e. 5297,
A. M. (1537), and bears the name of Birkat Seliman.
Water is found only in the first three which I have
mentioned ; the other four are entirely empty, and partly
ruinous.
10
JERUSALBM. 273
THE rOBT KALLAI
Is situated on the west side of the city, near the Jaffa
gate, not far from Mount Zion, wherefore it is universally
supposed to be the Tower of David, Migdal David TI-MD
nn ; the Fort of David, Mezudath David nn rnyiO ; or
the City of David, Ir David in yy; which is neverthis-
less an error, as I have said already that the Tower of
David must have been situated not far from the Siloali
spring. The Kallai is a strong castle, with a deep ditch
and strong towers, and is situated on the highest elevation
in the city. The stones in the foundation wall do indeed
denote a most ancient structure ; but the superstructure 10
evidently far more modem, and could not have been erected
before the European princes came into the Holy Land and
conquered it, as I shall more fully discuss in the historical
part of this work. There are documents which state that
this fort was built by men of Pisa, in Italy, who passed
into Palestine in 4999 (1239). It appeiars to me that the
ancient foundation walls of this structure are the remains
" of the house of the heroes" DmDJn rV2 of Nehemiah ill,
16, or of the "comer of the armory house" ptJ^jn r\y?Jf
yiVpOn of ibid. 19.
INHABITANTS.
Jerusalem contains more than 32,000 inhabitants, to
wit, 7,500 Jews (6,000 Sephardim and 1,500 Ashkenazim;
under the first are understood all the natives, and the im-
migrants from Turkey, Asia Minor, Persia, Arabia, and
Barbary in Africa ; and under the latter the immigrants
from Germany, Holland, Hungary, Poland, Russia, Galicia,
or other European countries), 15,000 Mahomedans, i. e*
Arabs and Turks, and 10,000 Christians, i. e. Greeka,
Armenians, Latins (Spaniards and Italians), Russians, and
Germans.
18
274 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
SOME ACCOUNT OF THK BTNAOOOtlKS AND SCnOOLS,
D-vnio -na and ni3'B'.
There are five large Synagogues in Jerusalem, which
have existed already for several centuries. Four l>elong
to the Sephardim congregation, and one to the y\shke-
nazim, or rather to the Germaas, since, when it was founded,
the name of the Polish, Russian, or Galiciau Jews was not
known. I shall, however, apeak more in detail of the last
mentioned in the sequel.
Among the first I'our is the so-called Zion Synagogue.
It is the oldest and largest; and if a common tradition is
to be believed, for which, however, I know of no proof, it
was the former college (Midrash) of Rabbi Yochanau Ben
Zakkai. See, concerning this, Echa Rabbethi, which says
that the SnjH n'3 of 2 Kings xxv. 9, " the great house,"
or "the house of the great," is (i. e. on this spot stood at
a later period, and was again burnt) the College of Rabbi
Yochanan Ben Zakkai. The other three were built at a
much later period.
All these four Syna^ogue.s form, properly speaking, but
a very large single building, since they stand near one
another, so that one can walk from one into the other,
and the centre one, the .smallest of all, has no entrance
from the street, and you have to reach it through either
of the three others. On my arrival, in the year 5593
(1833), I found them in a most miserable and lamen-
table condition, since they were at the time greatly out of
repair, and almost threatened to tumble in, and were use-
less in rainy weather, inasmuch as they were roofed in
with nothing but old and rotten boardi^, and our brothers
could not obtain the permission from "the pious faithful"
to drive as much as a single nail to fasten anything in
the building without being first authorized by the most
JERUSALEM. 276
worthy persons in authority, and such a favour, not to
mention to permit the making of repairs, and much less
to rebuild the Synagogues, could not b^ granted in order
not to commit a terrible sin against Allah and his Nebbi
(prophet) ; independently of which, the silver to procure
the consent was not easily obtainable in Jerusalem.
But in the year 5595, Abraim Pacha of Egypt, who
understood and was able to instruct and convince his
people " that even the Nebbi had grown more tolerant in
modem times," gave the permission to rebuild anew firom
the foundation all these four Synagogues, and they are
accordingly at present four fine buildings. Their situation
is opposite to the south-southwest corner of the temple
mount, on the declivity of the former Tyropoeon.
Besides the above five Synagogues, there are a great
many smaller and private ones, which have been foimded
quite recently, and public and private schools ni3*B^^
and colleges D^B^^ID, by which are understood public
libraries, large collections of nearly- all the accessible
Hebrew books of modem and (more especially) of more
ancient times, and manuscripts likewise, where every one is
permitted to enter and make use of the literary treasures.
For the most part there meet, in each Teshibah or Beth
Hammidrash, societies who study and discuss together a
particular subject, for instance, a NnDDD or Treatise of
the Talmud ; and they have usually one person, and this
the most capable and learned, as teacher or chief, called
iiytff^il B'NT Rash6 Hayeshibah.
These Teshiboth are foundations instituted by our
worthy brothers in Babel, Asia Minor, Turkey, Italy^
Barbary, Holland, Germany, England, and Poland ; (and
why should not America follow the example?) They
devoted a suflScient capital, the proceeds of which will be
enough to support a Yeshibah, together with the society
meeting therein.
I
r
276 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
It is but lately that I obtaiued from the respectable
finn of the Messrs. Laiidauer, of Hurbeii uear Augsburg in
Bavaria, a permaueut capital, which will always procure
me the rent for my own reaidence and Yeshlbab.
Several Yeshiboth have at the some time a Synagogue,
which is al«o the case with mine.
In the principal Yeshibah there is also the seat of the
high court Snjn V~\ n'3, which has to decide on the
gravest and most important proceedings.
The following are the pnuclpal Yeshiboth and Bathe
Hammidrash in Jerusalem; bet-ides which there are
several unnamed smaller ones. The name given to them,
bears generally an allusion to that of the founders ; and
as female names are also met with, it proves that worthy
ladies were likewise founders of these institutions.
1, Beth-El Sn n'3 ; 2, Beth Jaacob 3py' n'3; 3, Chesed
Leabrahan omDuS IDH ; 4, Neveh Shalom m^tyniJ;
5, Berith Abraham omDN nnp ; 0, Kissay Ehjahu
IH'Sn NDD ; 7, Kcneseth Yisniel SnIJI" nD23 ; 8, Kedu-
shath Yome Tobe 31D DV flB'np; 9- Orach Chayim
D"n mii*; 10, Damesek Eleazer 1T;?''7K ptffDT, H,
Ruacli Eliyalin in'Sit nil; 12, Bn6 Yitzchak pnV 'J3;
13, Toledoth Yitzchak pnV' nn'?in ; 14, B'n6 Mosh6h
r^tifO'^i^; 15, Ahole Zadikim D'p'IV 'SnN; IG, Chayim
Vachesed nDITl D"n> 17, Kinnor Nairn D'i'J TtJ^ - ^^>
Pirche Kehunnah HiirrD TIID; 19, Keluinnath '01am
oSiy nJlilD; 20, Emeth Leyaakob Dpy*S noX ; 21,
Magen David nn fJO ; 22, Beth Aharou pfiN ri'3 ; 23,
Dath Yehudith nnin'm; 24, Ohel Rachel Ubeth Ye-
hudah min* n'Dl Sn*l SnX ; 25, Sukkath Shalom pJD
DI^JC; 26, Eduth Bihoseph {my own) r^DinO mi;?; and
27, Or Hachayim D"nn "IIX.
These colleges and schools are all in Jerusalem ; but
there are several, although as might be expected in less
□umbers, in Hebron, Zafed, and Tiberias.
V t
Pnrtrflit oF Mf^h<Tfn«d AK,
J
tf
"^. V .
P-iillthU i, /H-i.-i Pkilni.l.i.:
n
I
A
.' 'i f>i\ 3 /'.tf u. ^ I t
JERUSALEM. 277
Among those mentioned above, are several which have
been in existence many hundred years, and of their founders
we may say in the words of the Psabnist (cxii. 6) : ^3n
pn!f n%n^ dSi)^ " The memory of the righteous shall re-
main for ever."
THE SYNAGOOUE OF ABHKENAZIM — ^A&ABIO, DIB ABHKENAZI.
I deem it worth while to speak more circumstantially
concerning this structure, since it will lead us upon much
that is historically interesting. By the term Synagogue
is not meant a single building, but an entire large court,
which forms as it were a whole street, which contains
within its circuit many houses and buildings, and is con-
structed after the style of a monastery. Through perusal
of documents and investigations made on the spot, I came
upon the result, that this old building is the same Syna-
gogue which was built in the year 5027 (1267), at the
time of the celebrated Nachmanides (Ramban ]2D^) ; since
he says, in his letter to his son in Spain, as I shall men-
tion hereafter in the historical part : " We found a very
handsome ruinous building with marble columns and a
pretty cupola, and we made collections in order to restore
the same to serve as a Synagogue, and commenced to build
on it." This building, with a handsome cupola and marble
columns, is still existing close by the present Synagogue ;
it was taken away from the Synagogue, as I shall tell here-
after, and is called at present Al Maraga, and is used as a
raisin mill, in which raisins are crushed and ground in
order to boil them into a syrup. At the time of the found-
ing of this Synagogue it was limited to this single building;
but at a later period, when the number of the Jews in-
creased, all the houses contiguous to it were incorporated
with it, and all denominated the Synagogue of the Ash-
kenazim. It was for a long time the only Synagogue in
Jerusalem where divine w6rship was held. It would
278 GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
appear that the old Sephardim Synagogue, that of Zion,
was in ruins, since neither Nachmanides, uor other descri-
bers of the country, mention the least about it. As late
as about 5346 (1586), both congregations, the Sephardim
and Aahkenazim united, worshipped there together ; and
only at the time when it was taken by violence from the
congregation, and they were compelled to choose them-
selves another place in tlie court as a Synagogue, which
has been preserved up to the latest period, the Sephardim
separated from the Ashkeuazim, the former probably re-
storing their ancient and former Zion Synagogue, since
which time the other remained with the Ashkenazim,
whence its name to tlie present day.
It is said in a work, D'Ss'lT nl^iri; " The Ruinsof Je-
rusalem" (see farther in the historical part, under the year
5386), "that forty years previously, i. e. 5346, the Muphti
of Jerusalem, a very great enemy of the Jews, caused
the Synagogue to be closed, and had it changed into Al
Maraga; and to this day we have not been able to obtain
possession of it again ; and this holy place is unfortu-
nately transformed into one of a degraded and profane
use. At the present time (in the year 5386, 1628),
the Cadi, a terrible extortioner, was prepared to cause
several shops to be constructed out of the hall and fi-ont of
the Synagogue, in order to rent them out U) Maliomedana,
and to moke a mill out of the closed Synagogue, AI Ma-
raga, When the oflScers of the congregation were inform-
ed of this, they presented a petition to the Cadi, that he
miglit not so desecrate the holy place, the more especially
as it was their lawful property, obtained by purchase, and
exhibited to him at the same time the legally signed docu-
ments in their hands ; but he did not desist from his inten-
tion till he had made them give him 1000 groah = 250
ducats = 500 dollars. Thereupon he himself gave them
another legal testimonial that this Synagogue had been
already, for more than one hundred years, perfectly legal-
ized property of the Jews, by whom it waa built up for a
Synagogue, wherefore no one is empowered to contest it
with them, or to disturb them in their possession of it."
There is nevertheless no doubt but that, notwithstand-
ing the 1000 grosh and the title deed of the Cadi, this
proposition was nevertheless carried into eflFect at a later
period ; since the formerly closed Synagogue, Al Maraga,
was turned into a mill, as it is even now ; and in the outer
hall, all along the front side, were erected a number of
shops, although they happen to be at present the pro-
perty of the Jews.
The whole court, therefore, with the exception of Al
Maraga, has ever since remained uninterruptedly the pro-
perty of the Ashkenozim, and used by them as their Syna-
gogue.
Li the year 5450 (1690), there arrived in the Holy City
a very pioua man called Rabbi Yehudah Hachasid (i. e.
the righteous), a native of Poland, but who had resided
a long time in the neighbourhood of Frankfort-on-the-
Maine, accompanied by many distinguished and pious Rab-
bis from Germany. He was chosen as the chief of the
Jerusalem Ashkenazim, and commenced to enlarge, adorn,
and improve the Synagogue buildings, whence they were
called the Synagogue of Rabbi Yehudah Hachasid. But
this precious chief was, alaa ! soon carried off by death,
and the congregation was plunged, through the plague,
want, poverty, and distress, into the most melancholy and
terrible condition, which compelled them to borrow money
on these buHdiugs from the Mahomedans at an enormous
rate of interest. Their distress became constantly greater
and greater; the capital grew apace, through the unheard-
of rate of interest, to an enormous amount; wherefore
their chief, the venerable Rabbi Mosheh Hakkohen, un-
dertook himself, about the year 5465 (1705), a missionary
280 GEOGRAPHY OK PALESTINE. ^
journey into Germany, to represent the terrible condition
of the pilgrims to their brothers abroad, iu order to insti-
tute for them a collection on a large scale. Rabbi Mosheh
actually met with such sympathy among the German
leraelites, that, through the honourable collectors at
FrankforUon-the-Maine, there was raised, in various collec-
tions, altogether the sum of 26,600 ducats. But even this
large amount was no longer sufficient to free the Jeru-
salem congi-egation from debt, since the enormous rate of
interest never allowed them to extinguish the capital ; and
these poor people were continually tormented in the most
terrible manner by their insatiable creditors, although,
in point of fact, tJie debt had been paid off severalfold
already.
Things were in this state when the Mahomedans sud-
denly assailed the Synagogue on Sabbath, the 8th of
Marcheshvan, 5481 (about Ist of November, 1721), set
it on fire, and burnt up whatever was combustible, toge-
ther with all the books and the rolls of the law (nSD
Jimn), of which there were forty in the buildings, which
latter also would surely have fallen likewise a prey to the
fearful conflagration, had they not been constructed out of
large and heavy Btones. They also seized the officers
and the moat respectable members of the congregation,
and threw tliem into prison ; they then took possession of
all the buildings, driving the Ashkeiiazim nway out of
them. These unfortunate people, driven to despair, fled
precipitately, in all directions, some to Hebron, some
to Zafed, and others beyond the limits of Palestine,
Thenceforth no Aslikenazi durst to show himself in Je-
rusalem. The Mahomedans, the creditors of the congre-
gation, t«ok possession of everything ; they made use of
the outer court of the Synagogue as a dung and rubbish
heap, so that there arose here by degrees a natural dung
and rubbish hill. All the cellars and other fiubterraueaii
JERUSALEM. 281
atmctureB, likewise, were filled up completely with dimg
and rubbish.
In the year 5572 (1812), when a fearful epidemic
raged in Zafed, and in all Galilee, about twenty Ashkeno-
zim ventured to flee to Jerusalem in disguise. They now
were suffered to live in quiet and undisturbed in the Holy
City, partly because they were unknown, and partly, per-
haps, because the hatred and persecuting spirit of the Ma-
homedana against the Ashkenazim had abated, as three or
four generations had passed away since the above occur-
rence. In the year 5576 (1810), efforts were made,
through the intervention of the respectable and rich
Israelites at Constantinople, to obtain a firman (decree)
from the supreme government of Turkey, to permit
the Ashkenazim to have a roll of the law miD 13D in
their Midraah at Jerusalem, and that the Mahomedans
should not iu future be allowed to make any claim against
the Ashkenazim then residing in the Holy City, on ac-
count of the old indebtedness of their predecessors. This
concession obtained, caused a constant increase of the
number of Gennan Jews in Jerusalem, so that they soon
felt the want of a Synagogue. A mission was accordingly
aeut, in the year 5596 (183G), to Mahmud Ali Pacha at
Alexandria, with a respectful petition, to grant them the
permission to reoccupy the property of their ancestors, and
to rebudd the ruined ancient Synagfjgue. At the same
time petitions were presented to the Austrian aud Rus-
sian consuls resident there, to employ their influence with
the Pacha to obtain for us the desired privilege. I gave
myself all possible pains to address this request to these
gentlemen in a powerful and touching petition, so that
notliing might be left undone to obtain our wish ; and we
must offer our thanks to these worthy men, who felt sin-
cerely for this noble cause, and actually employed all their
influence to induce the tolerant Pacha to be favourable to
282
GEOGRAPHY OF PALESTINE.
our petition. He immediately sent, in the most gracious
manner, a iimian to the congregation, that no creditor
should be empowered to make any more demands against
the property of the Ashkenazim, since the debt had
become outlawed through the lapse of time, wherefore
they were permitted to take possession again of their
former property, and to rebuild their Synagogue.
On Thursday, the 19th of Elul, 5596 (September, 1836),
the matter was judicially decided ; the Ashkenazim were
pennitted to enter the precincts which had hitherto been
denied to them ; the buildings so long closed were reopened ;
and they commenced at once to remove the dirt and rub-
bish, which required several weeks to accomphsh ; after
which the work of building was undertaken. This was
done with such zeal and mdustry, that already on Sab-
bath, Now Moon of Shebat, 55D7 (about February, 1837,
consequently in a space of eighteen weeks), the SynSr
gogue, being completed, was consecrated amidst the greatest
solemnities.
At a later period, all the other structures, terribly
ruined as they had been by the savj^ Arabs, were re-
stored, and thoroughly rebuilt, and are now in good
condition. Even Al Maraga would also have been taken
possession of, had it not been that the government was
taken away again from the tolerant Mahmiid AH Pacha,
through which cause much that was good and noble re-
mained unaccomplished.
This holy budding was then closed, and no divine wor-
ship held therein for the space of one hundred and sixteen
years, two months, and three weeks, which had never been
omitted before since its foundation, five hundred and
seventy years anterior to its reconsecration.
In clearing away the rubbish at the rebuilding of the
Synagogue, &c., there was found a very handsome and
deep cistern, cut out of the soUd rock. It was without
JERUSALEM. 283
water, but there were found in it a number of gold
coins. I discovered, however, none among them which
belonged to antiquity ; they were of modem times, and
were German and Polish gold coins (ducats), none of
which were more than 300 to 400 years old.
POSTSCRIPT TO THE SYNAGOGUES OP THE SBPHARDIM.
In these Synagogues is also bestowed a Jewish ele-
mentary education. It is indeed very simple, still very
correct and good, and considerably better than with the
Ashkenazim. But the higher school, where the child
obtains instruction .in the Tahnud, holds a higher rank
among the German than the Portuguese: and we can
soon distinguish whether a child has been educated in
one or the other Talmudic school; since the Ashke-
nazim endeavour to improve the child more than the
others in sharp and deep thought and wit.
THE LENGTH OP DAYS IN PALESTINE.
The longest day, the 21st or 22d of June, is here, at
Jerusalem, fourteen hours and ten minutes, that is to
say, from smirise to sunset, without including Ihe twiUghl^
Which is of four hours' duration, two in the morning and
two in the evening ; so that there is but, on the above
day, five hours and fifty minutes perfect night. The
shortest day, the 21st or 22d of December, is nine hours
and fifty minutes ; the twilight three hours ; and the ac-
tual night therefore eleven hours and ten minutes. I sub-
join a table of the increase and decrease of the days, in
accordance with careful and oft-repeated observations
made by myself. '
284
OIOGBAFHT OP PALBSHME.
t
I
I
n.
M.
21
21'
12
26
16
f
12
10
^81
11
► ^2
12
21
' 1
10
r
12
24
5
6
12
88
10
1-
12
44
15
27]
12
54
20
22
13
08
21
21
^^_t
18
06
26
17
18
18
80
12
a
18
20
' 1
11
r
18
22
6
7
18
27
10
2
18
84
16
28'
18
40
20
28
18
46
21
22
18
48
25
18
i> .
18
61
80
18
-1
18
55
.81
12
•
13
56
' 1
11
•
18
57
5
7
14
10
2
>
14
03
15
22) ?
14
00
20
14
09
I 21
14
10
' 6
8
10
8
16
27'
20
22
' 28
19
25
17
80
12 '
81
11
I
X
I
22
26
30
6
.0
6
;o
18
15
10
II
5
10
16
20
23
26
80
5
10
15
20
21
21'^
18
18
8
3
7
2
9
7
2
1
6
1
27
22
19
17
12
7
2
28
23
6
I
}l
s
H.
12
1
.1
LI
LI
I
LI
LO
LO
10
LO
LO
[0
LO
LO
[0
[0
10
10
9
9
9
9
58
42
82
22
12
2
55
50
42
40
88
27
21
16
12
9
5
1
57
54
51
50
PART II.
Y^nn n«vin
OF THE PRODUCTS OP PALESTINE IN THE ANIMAL, VEGETABLE,
AND MINERAL KINGDOMS.
INTRODUCTION.
If we compare the present nature of Palestine, and the
poverty of its productiveness, with the former flourishing
condition of this holy land, it would appear to us as though
all the powers of nature join unanimously in the complaint
issuing from Zion, " How have we been destroyed !" (Jer,
ix. 18.) Of a large portion of the former natural products,
we find no more any trace ; and those yet remaining are
mostly in a very miserable condition. Still we cannot
avoid recognising, judging from these feeble remains, the
ancient and blessed Palestine, as much as the magnificent
ruins of a destroyed fort give us proof of its former
strength.
I have accordingly described in the following chapters
whatever I have been able to ascertain respecting the
animal, vegetable, and mineral products of Palestine; and
if I have mentioned, among others, such species as no
longer exist there, it was done because I have suflBciently
convinced myself, after many years' investigation in the
Holy Land, that several occidental commentators and
translators of the Bible and Talmudical works have not
rarely erred in respect to these things, and that I believe
that I have been wiabled, with God's blessing, to rectify
completely the errors thus committed.
CLASS I.— MAMMALIA.
Cattle "IpD, Al Bakar. Oxen, as well as cows, are in
the worst condition in Palestine. They are employed in
all sorts of field labour, and are killed only when they
are eompletely worn down, and useless for any work
wherefore no beef fat ia obtainable in all the country.
Only iji the vicinity of Zafed are seen, although very
rarely, some fattened cattle ; but even their flesh is tough
and tasteless.
Sheep C'lD, Al Chanib,* however, are very plentiful.
The greater portion of these useful animals have fat tails,
weighing from eight to ten pounds, and the fat of which
is as well-flavoured and good as that of geese. The rams,
who all have horns, ai-e even still larger and stronger than
the female.'ri. The beef-cattle being so poor, mutton is
almost exclusively eaten ; and as the domestic supply is
not sufficient, many sheep are imported from abroad,
chiefly from the countries beyond Jordan, such as Belka
and Al Ledja, and from the Euphrates. In the month of
Kialev, 5605 (December, 1844), a large quantity of sheep
were even imported into Jerusalem from the town of Musi
in Kurdistan.
* Onlteloa undoubtedly meant sheep in hia paraphrnse to Gen. zxziii.
13, giving "hundred Kcaitah" with [inin rn03 Chorephan (derived from
the Arabic Charub, bence Chorb, or Cborph), a hundred sheep, or pur-
ohasc by barter, whioh is a nomadto custom and mode of trading still in
Togue. (See also Oakelos to Gen. xxi. 28.)
ANIMALS. 287
Goats ty, Al Djidi, which are nearly all black, are cer-
tamly lean ; still their milk is good and inodorous. From
the skins of these animals are manufactured the water-
bottles, which are used for the conveyance of water, oil,
and milk. The greater part of these bottles, however,
are made from the skins of the larger and stronger goats,
which are raised in the environs of Hebron. These last
are a peculiar species, are of a brown colour, and are called
Djidi Mamri. (Compare with Gen. xviu. 1.)
Gazelles 7^K> Al Gazl,* ' are very plentiful. In the
country around Ramla and Lod are seen entire herds
of these beautiful animals ; they are eaten by the Israel-
ites alsa.
Deer ♦iV? Al Tabi, are a small species of fallow deer,
and are mostly found on the mountains of Ramah, Bethel,
and in the vicinity of Jordan. Their fawns are often
raised, on account of their beauty, in the houses of the
more respectable inhabitants for amusement. Their flesh
has a taste very much like that of pigeons.
Yachmur *nonS is left untranslated by Saadiah, who
renders it simply, in Deut. xiv. 5, with Al Yachmur. It
denotes a species of wild goats ; but I have never seen any
specimen of them.
Chamois pM, Al Badn ; these fleet animals, which greatly
resemble the he-goat, are quite conmion in the mountains
of Lebanon. The Persian version calls them Kuz-Chuhi,
i. e. " mountain rams."
Dishon TB^n, according to Onkelos, Rima, " unicorn.''
I do not venture to decide whether this explanation be
correct, or that of the Persian Targum, which translates
with " mountain goat." Otherwise the unicorn is at pre-
sent entirely unknown in Palestine, although, according
to Bereshith Rabbah, chap, xxx., a young Rima was seen
* It is highly probable that the European word gazelle i& derived from
this Arabic root.
288 FBODTcis or paustixe.
there in the tune of BablH Chijm; and it is only still to
be found (?) in eastern Africa and India.
Forest Ox, Bnffido UCn, Al Djamush. These stoat and
fat animals, which are eaten bj the Jews also, are as large
as an ox, and are met with in great numbers in the vicinity
of Lake Semechonitis, or the Waters of Merom, of Joshua
xL Oy and of the cities Akra and Cheifa.
Giraffe *iOf 9 according to Saadiah and the Persian trans-
lation, Al Siralah, does no longer live in Palestine, but in
Southern Africa.
Camel SoJ, Al rjemaL These animals, which are quite
common with us, are employed for the carrying of heavy
burdens. There is, however, another species of camel,
called Al Adgin,* which have thin feet, a small head, and
but one hump ; they are able to run very fast ; but thia
they can accomplish only on a level road, and a sandy
soil, but by no means in mountainous districts. They are
for this reason frequently employed on the road between
Gazza and Eg}l>t, which leads through sandy plains ; but
extremely seldom in Jerusalem, as it is surrounded with
many mountains.
The Hare HDJ^Ut? Al Amab ; these animals, which are
eaten by the Turks, are quite plenty.
The Cony or Rabbit ^Qfff. Of these there are two spe-
cies ; the one is called Al Avavi, and is like the European
stable rabbit, and is eaten ; the pther, however, Al Wabr,
is larger than the first, and lives in whole troops on the
mountains and the clefts of rocks. The last appears to be
merely a wild subspecies of the first.
The Hog ^♦tn? Al Chanzir ; these animals, notoriously
odious to the Turks, are extremely rare in Palestine ; but
* Whence the Chaldean version of Isaiah hi. 2, of pirD "03 Hogene
^}}^ti ** Camels of Midian/^ The commentators to Bercshith Rabbah to
Gkn. xxvii., translate inoorrectlj piiin with U'T];/oak, as it should be
« small camels.'^
in the same proportion the wild hog is met with more fre-
quently than elsewhere, and it causes great devastation
on vineyards, fruit-trees, and the product*) of the field.
These destructive animals increased considerably and to a
dangerous extent during the years of Ibrahim Pasha's go-
vernment, since he did not permit the Bedouins to have any
arms. They are most numerously met with on Mount
Tabor, in the vicinity of Hebron, the Lake Semechonitis,
and finally among the canebrakes which grow on the
shores of the Dead Sea.
The Weasel iSn, Al Chuldi ; this animal, so well known
elsewhere, is quite rare with us. The Persian translation
renders it An Gurb, " the cat."
The Mouse "l3Dy, Al Far, is very numerous, as well as
the rat.
The Tortoise 3V> Al Selchefi, is found quite plentifully
near Hebron. The Arabs also call a species of lizard Al
Tzab, exactly like the Hebrew word rendered tortoise.
The Hedgehog npJtt) Al Konpud, which name the Arabs
also apply to the porcupine, a subspecies of which the
hedgehog is (compare Isaiah xxxiv. 11). Many hedge-
hogs, which are eaten by the Turks, are found between
Tiberias and Zafed.
. Koach riD- The Arabic version of Saadiah gives this
word with Al Chardun, which denotes a species of large
lizards, which inhabit ruins and the open field. Their
length, the tail included, is one foot. They keep their
head in constant motion, and are quite numerous in Pales-
tine. Their excrement is emploj'ed in Egypt for dyeing
red. I also heard the Arabs call this kind of lizard Al
Tab, nearly the same as Tzab 3^. (See above.)
Tinshemeth nOS^ln is given by Saadiah with Al Sara-
baras, i. e. the crab, which animal frequents the rivers of
Palestine in large numbers, but is not eaten by the Ma-
homedans. Rashi, however, and other. commentators on
L
290 PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
the Scriptures, translate it with toulpe. modem French,
taupe, or the mole, called in Arabic Al Far al art,* which
means literally earth-monse. These aniiuaU are very
numerous, especially in the level district of Shiax>n.
My researches regarding the nature of this animal led
me to imiKtrtant observations, which I cannot pass over
in silence. In Talmud Babli, Moed Katon, G h, the mole
is described as rilB'N Ashuth, an animal which has no
eyes. Many non-Israelite naturalists have sought to cast
ridicule in their literary productions upon this statement
of the Talmud, and to designate it as an error, the result
of ignorance, since the mole is actually supplied with eyes,
though they are small and so closely oversliadowed by the
hair which is attached to the brows, that they can be
discovered only with difficulty. So long as I lived in my
native land, Grermany, the above statement of the Talmud
was to me also an incomprehensible riddle, which grieved
mo the more, since on the one side I could not contradict
the truth, whilst on the other I could not comprehend
why our learned Talmudists, who display in all branches
of natural history an astonishingly thorough knowledge
of their subject, should have remained stningers to the
nature of the mole. But since I have resided in the
holy land of our fathers, on the native soil of our Talmu-
dists, 1 have become convinced to my great joy that these
Talmudic sages have nowise erred, but that the oriental
Ashuth niB^N is so different from the European mole,
* I believe thut the niifl iianS Lachpore Payroth, is the same as nii3
Ptirotb, from the Arubic Farah, mease, plural, Fnrotb, HebrBic6 Puroth,
mice; hence nns i>£)nS "for the digging mice, er moles." [The Arabic
root here fuand ia laaiuh luuat not sarprise the inquirer; since in the
iiitercouTBc subHiating between neighbouring nations, nothing is more
natural than that nccasioDollj some ezpreesionfl or forms should pass from
one language t« the other, especially if they be cognate di&lccta. — Trams-
]
ANIMALS. 291
that the two have scarcely any resemblance with each
other.
There are namely two species of this little animal in
Palestine, both of which the Arabs call Al Far al art; the
one is nothing but the ordinary field-mouse ; the other,
however, is the oriental mole proper, or the Ashuth of the
Talmud. It looks very much like a newborn kitten, and
is two spans in length, has a large, thick and round head,
two small openings for the ears, biU no eyes what&ver. Its
four teeth, as it has no lips, are always strongly visible,
as though it had its mouth open ; the two lower and larger
teeth, which stand so close to each other as though they had
grown together, are very long and sharp; whereas the
two upper and smaller ones, with which it tears off the
roots under ground, are short and connected with the nose.
Its fore-paws, with which it digs up the ground, resemble
those of the European mole. It has no tail. These noxious
animals are himted after by the peasants. But they are
not rarely brought alive to Jerusalem, where they are
sold, since their blood is said to possess wholesome pro-
perties.
In order that European naturalists might be able to
convince themselves that the statement of our Tahnudists
is correct and true, that the Eastern mole has actually no
eyes, I was induced to send a specimen of this little ani-
mal to Munich, the capital of Bavaria.
The Frog yi*lflVj Al Akruk, is very plentiful ifi the
country. (In Baba-Bathra, fol. 73 6, occurs the word
i<n^pnpK " the female frog," evidently from the Arabic)
The Lion HK Al Zbe, is not met with in the Holy Land;
but in the wilderness through which the road to Egj^t
lies, lions are often seen.
The Monkey C]in, Al Setun, is at home on the frontiers
of Egypt, and only trained monkeys are occasionally
brought to Palestine. The Adn6 Hassadeh m\ffT\ ^XMK of
Zya PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
Kelaim, viii. § 6, is, accxirding to my opinion, the '
Outan*
The Tiger 10^, Al Nimer, is met with on the bo
the Jcirdau in the vicinity of Jericho, aa alao on
Tabor and Lebanon. When, in consequence of the d©i
stniction of the holy city of Zafed, in the year 5
(1834), that part of the town inhabited by the Jews
mained deserted by them during tlie apace of six weeki
a tiger was seen in that place. The Ai-abs are in the haW
of kindling fires around their tenta at night, in order I
keep off the tigers, which dread nothing so much as fire.
The Wolf 3i«r, Al Dzib, is very common in Palestine^
but is most frequently met with in the environs of BanL
and Chaspeya.
The Fox VyitJ*, Al Shagl. Several species of this animal
are found in the Holy Land.
The Hyena J^IDV, Al Tebl)e, inhabits the mountains o
Judah, Lod, and Galilee, This beast, so dangerous 1
human life, and which has so great a propensity for 1
exhumation of corpses, has been met with even on 1
Olivet, the burial-place of the Jerusalem Jews.
The Bear 31, Al Dib, is found in the mountains of I
banon, Chemion, Caruiel, Tabor, Banias, and Chaspeya,
The Horses DID. Al Fanvs, are remarkably fine i
handsome in our country. j
The Asa llOn? Al Chraar, is found in large number^
But the alao so-called Wild Ass ill)? Al Pare (comp. witl
Pereh, Jer. ii, 24), ia also at home with us, cspccialljp
on the mountains of Edom. The wild species are used t
the Arabs aa food.
The Mule Tifl, Al Bagla. This beast of burden is I
be met with in large numbers.
The Dc^ 3?D, Al Kelb, with us, run about without i
* Joaeph. Boll, Jud. b. vii. eh. %xv, maken mention of a. root called
Baraas, which grows in the vicinity of the town Maeliur, wliich hti
much in oommoQ with the Adne UaHsadeh of Ycrush. Kefaim,vi
ANIMALS. 29S
master ; wherefore they do not enter the houses, but re-
main constantly in th^ streets ; but they are so quiet, that
they even do not bite the passers-by, should they happen
to tread on them. It is a remarkable fact, that, although
our dogs are constantly exposed to the burning heat of
the sun, and cannot, moreover, find water anjrwhere to
quench their thirst, a case of canine madness (hydropho-
bia) is unheard of amoog them.
The Cat 7inn> Al Kata, is likewise not raised in the
houses, but lives without an owner in the street ; but this
adroit thief knows perfectly well how to steal into the
houses by descending from the roof, and to carry off with
the utmost cunning whatever is not carefully locked up.
CLASS II. — AMPHIBIA.
The Tortoise 3V, Al Selchefi. (See page 289, same
article in Mammalia.)
Koach, see ibid.
Letaah HNdS is, according to Saadiah, Al Etaia in the
Arabic of Egypt, the same which is called, by the Palestine
Arabs, Al Abubrish ; it is the small lizard, which is, the tail
included, not more than a span in length, and is found in
dwellings. The Persian translation, " wangas, i. e., the tor-
toise," is evidently wrong, since the Talmud speaks of the
" Zanab Haletaah," the tail of the Letaah, which is not
applicable to the tortoise.
The Snail DOtl? Al Chalson, is given by Saadiah with
Al Charba, a species of large lizard. I once found such
an animal in the garden which is by my dwelling. It waa
near three fingers thick, and a foot long, the tail included,
which, however, occupied nearly half the length of the
animal. Its hue was grass-green, with golden yellow
spots ; but it changed its colour several times, especially
when it was angry. After I had caught it, its whole skin
became golden yellow, whereas the former yellow spots
became white. Its back was- like that of a fat fish, thick
S94
PRODUCTS OF PALESTINF.
t
and pointed, and its akin furrowed. But ita eyes were thl
most remarkable thing in the animal : it could, namely, I
look at two objects at the same time ; for instance, with one '
eye it could see an object to tlie right, and with the other
something to the left, or could look with one upward,
and with the other downwai-d. The little creature I had
captured was therefore a chameleon, which possesses all
these peculiarities. But when I questioned an Arab neigh-
bour concerning the name of my prize, he answered Al
Charba, which, nevertheless, is the word with which Saa-
diab translates the Choraet or Snail of the Bible.
The Frog ymss, Al Akmk. (See above.)
Serpents D'tfTlJi Al Chivi, are plentiful in Palcstine^J
especially those called house snakes. These remain occft-l
sionally for years and days with their young in the samel
house, and go in and out without injuring any one. Xm
have seen snakes of this kind which were three feet long J
and three inches thick. Some years ago a serpent waflj
met with on the road to Jericho, which was more thai
six feet in length, and as thick as a man's arm, and was!
of a black colour. When the travellers had cut it down, '
the blood streamed from it as though they had butchered
an ox. — The following fact will prove that the warning
given by our Talmudists, not to drink water which has
been standing in an open vessel (Terumoth viii., § 4), is
really desei-ving of attention. A person in Tiberias drank
some water thus exposed, and was soon after a corpse. It J
had no doubt been poisoned by a serpent, which hadJ
W drunk from the same.
H It is a phenomenon bordering on tlte miraculous to i
H many Arabs and Eg_ypttans handling with their bare hand
H the most poisonous snakes, jumping and cajx-ring about^l
H and playing with them as with a string, whereas any onfll
H else would be instantly bitten if he wore merely to touch
H these dangerous animals. It must, however, not be sup-
H posed that they only practise thus with serpents 'wtiioh
\
ANIMALS. 295
they have previously tamed or rendered innocuous by
depriving them of their poisonous fangs ; for they carry
on this incredible sport even with such strange ser-
pents as are brought in from elsewhere, and which they
can to a certainty never have seen before in all their life.
It is, as said, an exhibition which appears preternatural.
The Crocodile SnjH 3*lp3/? Al Buda, is met with on the
shore of the Mediterranean, near Cheifa and Caesarea, but
is not above two feet in length.
CLASS in. — ^BIRDS.
The Eagles *lt5^j, Al Nisr, of which the greatest variety
are found in Lebanon, build their nests on the highest
rocky pinnacles of this mountain.
Peres D*lD, Al Ekab, is a species of vulture.
'Ozniah n^JTJ/, Al Enka, i. e. Long-neck, is likewise a kind
of vulture, which has a long neck and legs, and stands
nearly four feet in height. These three kinds of birds
are solely found in the Lebanon and the land of the
Druses.
Daah HKl? Al Chadah, is a species of bird of prey, as
large as a goose. I have often seen such a one flying
down on the roofs of the houses of our town, to fetch his
prey from there.
Ayah n^K> Al Zada, i. e. the hunter, denotes a species of
falcon, which are trained by the Arabs for hunting. There
are several kinds of this species to be met with in Pales-
tine.
The Raven 3*nj^, Al Kak. ' Besides the usual raven,
there is here a smaller species, called Zarzir. (Compaie
Bereshith Rabbah, chap. Ixv.)
The Ostrich ^i3/^^ HD, AlNeam, lives in the wilderness
on the frontiers of Eg3rpt. In a Persian translation before
me, the ostrich is termed an Shetur Murdj, the camel-bird.
Tachmos DDtin, Al Chtaf, i. e. the bird of prey, a species
of owL
PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
ns
296
The Cuckoo :pef, Al Hakub, from its call. Kub-ku-kn,
The Persian translation has An Shechin (s&e Tinshemeth).
Netz Vi -^1 Basi, a species of falcon, which is trained loft,
hunting, and is especiaUy found, in very large numbers,
the country of Diarbekir, on the Tigris.
The NightrOwl DID, Al Bus, dwells in rums. The
mournful cry of this bird is clearly heard by night in
Jerusalem, more particularly, alas ! on the holy templa
mount.
Shalach 'y?tlf, Al Semag, i. e. fish, which means, the]
fore, the fish-catcher, is found numerously near Li
Chinnereth.
Yauehuf flltyj') Al Bashak, & species of owl or nighto'
The Persian translation gives An Laglag (see nTDPT CI
sidah) .
The Bat flOB'Jn, Arabice, Dir Lil, i. e. Night-bmi,
The Pelican rMtp 's called by the Arabs Al Djemal al
Bachr, i. e. the seaKiamel, because it is the largest water
fowl. Saadiah and the Persian translation give this word
with Kuk, which is the bird Kiik (Kik?) mentioned in
Talmud Sabbath, fol. 21 a. Its Hebrew name riND Kaath.,,
" diagorger," is derived from the circumstance that it c
disgorge from its crop or sack which it has under it^
throat, whatever it has swallowed into it, be it wate
fishes, worms, &;c. This bird has been frequently observei
on the sea of Chinnereth.
Hacham oni, Al Srakrak, is a bird which is found i
the Egj-ptian desert, more particularly, however, in Nort
em Africa ; it is of the size of a dove, and its Arab!
name is derived from its crying srakrak when it flial
(See Chulin, 03 u, and Onkelos.)
The Stork rtTDR, Al Laklak. There are two speoiel
of this bird, the one white, the other black, and both i
frequently met with in the country about Gazza. Thi
Persian translation has rendered it with An Sepd Mure
i. e. The White Bird.
ANIMALS. 297
The Parrot nflJN? Al Babgah, is not a native of Pales-
tine, and is carried thither as a curiosity by the Turks.
Duchiphath riflOli, is translated by Saadiah with Had-
hud, the double-comb, the Lapwing.
The Swallow f|7t33/, Al Senuna. The Persian transla-
tion has it An Shab Ferach, night-bird or bat. On the
shore of the Mediterranean are found large masses of sea
swallows, which have white spots on the breast ; whence
the expression in Tosephtah of Chulin, ch. iii., N»J1J*D
njsb The White Senimiah, the swallow with white
spots.
The Quails iSb^, Al Kuta. Of these fat birds, which
are as large as a pigeon, there are such quantities in the
neighbourhood of the Jordan, and in the country to the
east of the same, that they almost, cov^r the face of the
land. The Arabs throw stones at them when they are
on the wing in order to kill them.
The Dove fljv, Al Chamam. There are two species of
this bird, the House Dove and the Field Dove. It is es-
teemed as sacred by the Mahomedans, wherefore they do
not eat it. In the country of the Druses, in Lebanon, is
found a lai*ge species of wild pigeon, which is probably
alluded to in Talmud Chulin, 1'39 6, under nVDmn UV
Yone Hadrisioth, which would almost lead me to suppose
that the Druses existed already in the time of the Tal-
mud.
The Domestic Fowl SlJi'in, Al Dik. There are in
Palestine ordinary and Indian fowls, the latter of which
are called Al Dik India, or Dik al Chavash. In the isle
of Cyprus there are such large and fat fowls, that they
are even celebrated in all Palestine. We have, however,
no Guinea fowls.
The Goose or Duck tlW, Al Awas. Except on the sea-
shore in the vicinity of Zidon, Beirut, and the frontiers, no
geese or ducks are met with. Wild ducks are found on
Lake Chinnereth.
Z98 PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
Peacocks C'Siriii Al Fawas, are not found in Pales-
tine, ant] are onlj imported from abroad. The Malays,
the inJiabitantfl of Malacca, call these birds by their He-
brew name Tukiim.*
The Partridge llJi?, Al Chadjla, is used as food by the
Jews. The Hebrew name 'Agur is perhaps derived from
its peculiar cry, "gur, gur." In the vicinity of the ancient
Beth-Choglah, now Beth-Chadjlah, many partridges are
found, which circumstance, perhaps, caused the name of
the town.
Siss D'D, Al Akruk, a species of Crow. See Jonathan
to Jer. viii. 7, iTjnD Keruchiah, i. e. the Arabic Keriik
^Akruk.
Kore {("lip is given in Bereshith Kabbah with Long-
neck, a species of stork, which ha-s a long and thiu neck,
and of which many are found on the frontiers of Egypt.
In the vicinity of the Jordan and Lake Chinnereth are
occasionally seen several kinds of loug and thin-necked
swans. There is also found there a kind of bird taller
than the stork, red in colour, and having a very long
neck. I suppose this to be the flamingo. The nightingale
also visits the shores of the Jordan. Of the other kinds of
the birds of Palestine which are unknown to me, I could
obtain no reliable information from the Bedouins and Arabs,
because they do not occupy themselves in the least with
natural history.
The Scorpion 3")pJ?, Al Akrab, is a native of Palestine ;
and although not bigger than a very large spider, its sting
is nevertheless mortal. About eleven years ago a little
girl two years old was stung by a scorpion, and she
• Mbj this not be taken as proof that Solomon's Ophir and TurshisU
ships tr»dt.'d to Malacca? since the Peacock ia onlj named in c
with the voyage to these countriea? — TaASSLATOB.
ANIMALS. 299
died the same day. The following is the only remedy
which can be appUed with any degree of success. So soon
« the scorpion ha, s.m.g iyoritrun, around in .
circle, as if it were confused; it is then to be caught, and
fried in oil, which oil is then placed on the wound. The
person stung is then saved from death, and escapes with a
mere sweUing. The greatest number of scorpions are met
with south of Jericho, not far from the Jordan.
Centipedes 71^, Al em arba wearbain, are found in
Palestine in large quantities. Some are nearly one and
a half feet in length, as I have convinced myself by actual
inspection ; but even on the smallest of these insects I
have counted above two hundred legs. Their bite is occa-
sionally mortal. These little animals lay such hold on
the human flesh, that they cannot be removed from it
without putting a live coal on them, whereupon they im-
mediately quit their prey.
The Bee miDl, Al Nachal. Hive-bees are not nume-
rous ; the more frequent are the wild bees met with. The
greater part of the honey used in this country is a syrup
prepared out of boiled wine. In the vicinity of Tiberias
is found a species of very large bee, called Sbura N*n37.
These little creatures settle down in large swarms, espe-
cially at harvest time, and are very troublesome to the
people.
The Ant nSoj, Al Namal. There are in Palestine ants
of the greatest variety of species, small ones no less than
the large winged kind. These domestic plagues, which
dread nothing so much as the smell of pitch, are found by
troops in the food, and render it unfit for use.
The Hornet iljr\% -^1 Namus. The species, the sting
of which is fatal, is not found in Palestine, it being con-
fined to the frontiers of Egypt, and is there but seldom
met with. As these insects fly before the smell of tar,
the Bedouins, who are compelled to work in the field
300 PRODUCTS or palestinb. ^
when the country is visited by this plague, paint the face,
hands, and feet with tar, and are then secured against the
sting of the hornets. In the summer of 5598 (1838), Eg;V"pt
wTiH visited with this indigenous plague, and many human
heings lost their lives in consequence.
The Locusts n3nM Al Djardi. These dangerous visiters
spread over the country in mjTiads, though, thank God,
but seldom ; and when they come they cover the whole
surface of the earth, and in a few minutes everything
green in the field is destroyed. In the year 6598, I was
an eye-witneaa of this deplorable phenomenon ; namely,
on Monday, the 25th of Kislev (about the 23d of Decem-
ber, 1837), at one o'clock in the afternoon, there came
suddenly a swarm of locusts, flying from the southwest in
an easterly direction past the Mount of Olives. They
were grass-green, and a finger long- During their passage,
which lasted an entire hour, such mosses of these little
animals fell to the ground that the surface of the soil was
covered with them. Fortunately the harvest was long
since over at the time, wherefore they could cause no in-
jury. The Arabs roasted many of these locusts and ate
them with much relish ; so did the Barbary Jews likewise,
as they allege to have the traditional certainty that this
species of locust is permitted to us in Scripture, it
being the Chagab 3jn of Leviticus si. 22. The same
visitation was unfortunately witnessed in the year 5605
(1845). On Friday, the 23d of Shebat (31 January), at
lip. M., a swarm of locusts, flying from the northwest to
the southeast, spread over our land. Their passage lasted
about three quarters of an hour. The colour of these
locusts was a reddish brown, and they were also smaller
and less numerous than the former. They, however, re-
peated their visit after a few weeks three times, though
in less numbers. These guests halted in Galilee and Al
Gor, and destroyed the products of nature to such a degree
ANIMALS. 301
that a famine was almost the consequence. In the month
of Ab (August) following, many thousands of Arabs, of
the tribe Arab al Anasi, came in consequence to Jaffa and
vicinity, firom the Syrian Desert between Damascus and
Aleppo, with their wives^ children, and flocks, in order
to supply themselves with the necessaries of life. These
famished people gave away their cattle and all they pos-
sessed merely to obtain bread. Their intention of sta3dng
in our vicinity till the succeeding winter filled all the
inhabitants of Palestine with fearful apprehensions.
When, eighteen years ago (1827), the whole of Galilee
had the misfortune to be infested with the locust plague^
the then governing Pacha, Abd Alia, who resided at Acre,
gave orders that each one of his subjects should furnish
a peck measure full of these noxious little animals, in
order to contribute by this means to their destruction.
But this measure was without any good result ; another
experiment succeeded much better. There is a bird called
Al Semarmar, resembling the goldhammer, which the
locusts fear as their deadly enemy, and they make their
escape s^ soon as they hear his voice. The Pacha, there-
fore endeavoured in a cunning manner to entice these birds
to come, and this remedy did not fail of being effective,
for it was not long before the country was freed from the
devastating troop. The south and southeast winds are
also destructive to the locusts.
GLASS V. — WORMS.
The Leech HplSy, Al Alak, is found numerously, espe-
cially in the vicinity of Zafed and Jaffa.
The Silkworm ♦Bfon n^Sin, Tut al Charir, is very
largely propagated in the country of the Druses in
Lebanon, whence many thousand cwt. of silk are ex-
ported abroad.
The Purple Snail, ♦DHN ptSfl, Al Chalsun Achmar, is
rarely met with on the sea-shore near Cheifa and Acre.
PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
OLABS VI. — FISH.
In the Mediterranean, Chinnereth, and Semechonitis, as
also in the Jordan, are found many kinds of fish, which are
nevertheless essentially different from the European ones.
Some are found which weigh thirty pounds. In the sea
near Jaffa, there is found at times a species offish which
emits a phosphorescent hght in the dark not unlike rott«n
wood. (Compare Job xli. 24.) I even convinced myself
that this luminousness continued after the fish had been
salted aa long tut three days, and that the finger, which
had some moisture adhering to it after touching the flesh
of it, was also luminous in the dark. This peculiar property
of the fish is only destroyed when it is put over the fire,
or immersed in hot water.
There is found likewise in the sea of Chinnereth a very
fat fish, Al Barbud, which has no scales, wherefore it is
Lnot eaten by Jews. I consider it to be a species of the eel.
There are two kinds of fish known as KDIDE' Shebuta,
Al Sabuta, one of which is as large as a hog, and is very
fat and well-flavoured. It is not met with in Palestine,
and is only caught in the ItaUan seas, and especially near
Fiurae. It is known among the ItaUans as Tanina. (See
Talmud Chulin, 25 a, DJ1E3, which Bashi explains with
Taninus, Tanina; ibid., 109 6; and Sanhedrm, 59 i.) The
other ia a smaller species, has tender flesh, and is salted
before being eaten. In Talmud occurs the phrase ri'7lp
rJDDNn (comp. Sabbath, 145 i) Kohth Harispanin, in
Greek Kolias KoXios, denotes a species of aearfish, perhaps
the sardelle, and in general all kinds of small salted fish ;
hence Kolith Harispanan, " salt fish coming from Spain"
(Ispanin).
CHAPTER 11.
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.
In the following chapter it is my intention to enumerate
all the vegetable products of Palestine which are known
to me, whether they are still existing there, or were for-
merly to be met with fix)m their occurring in the Talmud.
But no surprise must be expressed at the brevity of my
description, since it is not my intention to furnish a natural
history, but merely an enumeration of the products of the
Holy Land.
The Grape-vine TfiJ, Al Anab, flourishes most luxiuiantly
in this country,. and it is not rare that you meet with vines
which are extended so far that thirty men can conveniently
sit under the overshadowing of one, as under a tent. The
wine obtained therefrom is very good, but somewhat too
thick and heavy. Owing to the constantly heated state of
the atmosphere, wine does not last long with us, and soon
becomes soin:. Wine three or four years old is something
very rare in Palestine, and brings a high price. The single
berries of the grape are at times as large as a walnut.
The Figs niMH, Al Tin, are small, and are not as large
as the Italian. The dried figs are called Al Gragra (Tal-
mudic6 nn J1^ J Grogeroth) . There are also to be met with
wild figs, called in the language of the people Adam's figs^
because it is said that of the tree which furnishes this
fruit it was that Adam and Eve made themselves aprons
in Paradise of the leaves, which are more than two feet
long, eight inches broad, and two fingers thick, — as the
making of aprons was naturally not possible fix)m the
ordinary fig leaves. The fruit of this tree, enclosed in a
304
PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
»
soft shell covered with fine prickles, grows from the midst
of the leaves, is in shape resembling a large egg, aiid is
well-flavoured. As this species of fig was originally de-
rived from America {?), it ia called in the Africano-Arabic
dialect Kirmis Nazari, i. e. the fig of the Christian country.
The Mulberry Fig D'DpB', Al Djimis, is a certain species
which ripens before the ordinary fig, but has no taste of
figs, and is on the whole not good for food. This fruit
grows without stem, directly from the wood. The tree
bearing it is stronger and taller than the usual fig-tree.
The Pomegriinates pDl, Al Riman, which are very
abundant, are found of two species, the sweet and sour.
The Olives ;tt, Al Situn, although plentiful, are small
and poor ; so also is the oUve oil of Palestine very inferior
to that of Italy and Provence in France. In the vicinity of
Chaspeya, on Mount Lebanon, however, olives grow there
as large as a small egg.
The Dates lOn, Al Thamar, of which there are two
kinds, arc scarce, and then not of the best; and good ones
are only found near Damascus. No date-honey is there-
fore seen any more in Palestine. As the lawftil palm
branches, Lulab 3717, for the festival of Tabernacles (Levit.
xxiii. 40), arc used only those which have grown out from
the body of the tree the very year they are cut; for when
they grow older, the leaves sjiread apart, and are there-
fore useless for the ceremonial purpose.-"
The Citron, Paradise Apple lin ry 'ID JllHtt, Al
Athrundj, whence is derived the name of orange, for the
citrou is a species of orange ; lemon, Al Limon ; the China
orange, Al Portugal ; and the orange, Al Oranta, i. e. the
* Bedouins have assured mo that among ibc paliua there are male and
fcmiile trees, which they know easily how to di»tiuguit<h, and that they
would not produce fruit if they did not graft the female on the male.
(See Pesachim, 5C a.) [This phenomenon refjuircB no aBsurance of
Bedouins, as it is universally known. The fruit-bearing olive, too, it ia
said, requires an unfruitful one near it to produce fruit. — Teahslatob.]
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM.
305
golden apple (Prov, xsv. 11), from Mala aurantia, are all,
properly speaking, belonging to the orange species. Of all
these kinds of fruit, there are very many found in Pales-
tine; but they last not long, and rot away very quickly.
Of lemons there are two kinds, the sweet and the sour.
Citrous, of which no grafted ones are ever produced here,
weigh occasionally more than twelve pounds.
Apples D'niflrij Al Thappach, Pears D'DJi', Al Andjas,
Peaches pD"l3, Al Pharsk, Quincea D'dDn, Al Sfarshl, and
Almonds DnptS*! Al Luz,* both sweet and bitter, are pro-
duced in great abtmdance (see Bereshitli Kabbah, chap.
xlii.) , although the apples and pears are far inferior to
the European.
iMuIberries ^^^^\, Al Thuth, are plentiful. In the garden
near my dwelling there is a tree which ia twenty-four
feet in height. (Sabbath, 144 6.)
St. John's Bread Dnn, Box-bom, Al Charub, is produced
in abundailce with us, but it is dry and tasteless.
Nuts D'nJN. Walnuts, Al Djus, and Hazelnuts nS? Al
Funduk, are rare. But there is a species of long nuta,
called Pustuk (Pistachio?), which are green, and- have a
good flavour.
Chestnuts pOiy, Al Kuetul (chan^ng n into I, for Kus-
tun, castania) are at present not abundant. The chestnut
toee is also called Shach Balul, i. e. the Chief Tree, be-
cause its wood is hard and very durable.
The Gourd, Wonder Tree ]Vp'''ri, Al Krua, of Jonah iv.
10, is scarce; this tree grows so rapidly, that it attains a
height of twenty to thirty feet in three to four months. It
bears a fruit from which a sweet oil (Ricinus oil, comp.
Tal. Sabbath, 20 b), which is a wholesome purgative, is
* This fjliowa that Shckadim is aytiODymous with Luz, as Saadiab traiiB-
lated the first with Luza, wherefore Ltu is not to be rendered, aa usual,
with "hazelnut."
306 PRODUCTS OP PALESTINE.
expressed. In the district of Diarbekir, on the Tigris, the
Wonder Tree grows abundantly in a wild state.*
Prunes IpDDTl, Dannaskan, the Damascenes, Al
Swauda, are not found in Palestine, but are brought hither
from Damascus, whence their name. (Of the other kinds
of fruits we shall speak hereafter.)
Wheat ntsri; -A.1 Chanta, also called Al Kamch, is grown
in' abundance, and no other than wheaten bread is met
with in Palestine. But the best wheat is grown in the
country situated near Gazza, on the Jordan, and near the
cities of Kerak and Ilauran beyond Jordan, where the
grains are particularly large and good.
Barley mytf', Al Seir, is extremely limited in supply,
and is used only for horse-feed. Rye, oats, and millet,
however, are not gro^vn at all. Rice is produced only in
the neighbourhood of Chuli, on the Lake of Merom; it is
quite singular in colour and taste, being red in appear-
ance, and swells uncommonly in being lx)ilod.
Pottage or lentils D'triJ?, Al Adas, are plentiful, and are
broader than those grown in Europe. We have, also, a
peculiar kind of fruit called Dura, which has nearly the
same shape as the lentils, but is quite whit«, and serves
as food for poultry. The Arabs and the common people
grind this singular fruit and make cakes of it- Maize
likewise is called Dura ; this also is used for bread, espe-
cially, hoivever, in the vicinity of Chuli, where it is
extensively cultivated. Both the last-mentioned grow
on thin stalks, which attain the height of a man.
FOREST TREES.
Cedars T^ttj Al Ars, are found nowhere in Palestine,
* The Kokoa nuts do not grow with us, but are brought hither from
Arabia by ihe pilgrima coming from ATekka. I suppose that the oil of
Kik, of Sabbath, ch. ii, g i, is the oil of the Kokoa nut.
THE VSGETABLE KINGDOM. 307
except on Mount Lebanon. But in S3nria, in the vicinity
of Aleppo, there are likewise Cedars, though in very
limited numbers.
Tidhar '^TMD (Isaiah Ix. 13), Al Tatar, is a tree which
grows near the Jordan, and flourishes for the most part,
like the willow of the brook, near water-courses. It grows
to the height of ten to twelve feet, and obtains often a
large circumference. Its wood is very hard, and brings a
high price. It appears to me that it is the one commonly
called Box Tree.
The Cypress ^IB^Nn, Al Sarui,* is a species of Cedar.
It attains a great height, has some fragrance, and the
wood is sold at a high price. Specimens of this tree have
attained the age of more than a thousand years. It is
seldom found in Palestine; in Jerusalem, however, and
this on the spot where formerly the holy temple stood,
there are several Cypresses.f
The Bay Laurel pj<, Al Ar, is extensively met with in
Palestine, especially in the land of Galilee, particularly in
the city of Zafed, where our brethren cover their taberna-
cles on the feast of Sukkoth with laurel branches, which
bear a. great resemblance to those of the Charub Tree
(St. John's Bread Tree)-!
* In Kosh Hashanali, 23 a, Te&shur is explained by Saribna, which is
similitr to the modern Sarui.
f Bereshith Babbah, ch. xv., says that Teashur is identical with Puk-
sinun, which I suppose means Box Wood.
X I wish to state here, that, according to my view, the fruit KJi)*i
Daphna, so often mentioned in the Talmud, is derived from the Greek
Daphne, which word signifies the Laurel Tree, and has its origin in My-
thology. The legend is, that the nymph Daphne being loved by Apolio,
and pursued by him wherever she went, became tired of life, and prayed
that the earth might swallow her. She was answered; and when Apollo
one day was about to embrace her, her feet were suddenly turned into
roots, her arms into branches, and he embraced a laurel tree. Hence
the Greek nanie of Daphne for the laurel, and the Talmudio Daphna.
I
308 PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
The Acacia (Shittim) Tree D'DC, Al Sunt, is found in
Palestine of different viirietieS; it looks like the Mulberry
Tree, attains a great height, and has a hard wood. The
gum which is obtained from it is the Gum Arabic.
The Red Oak TiSk, Al Balut, of our country is larger
than that of Europe, and its wood is extraordinarily du-
rable, and furnishes the best charcoal. The acorns grow-
ing on thia tree are roasted and eaten.
The Terebinth nVx, Al Butum or Ulma, I>ears a small
fruit D*iDDj Al Butan, which looks like green peas; it is
hollow within, and has a sourish taste. They bore holes
in the trunk of this tree, and there issues thence a gum,
which is that called Turpentine. Eashi to Gen. xliii. 11,
seems not to have known this fruit, since he suspected
Botnim to be peaches, which are not a natural pi-oduct of
the country, consequently could not hav^ been referred to
in the Ppeecli of Jacob in the passage cited.
The Birch nj37, Al Labna, is seldom met with in
Palestine.
The Fir Tree, called Al Znober, ia found more abun-
dantly in our country.
Gopher-wood IflJ 'Vi'j io the Persian translation Zub-
hai Senobr, is a species of Fir Tree called Al Piniuni, and
is found plentifully near Hebron; it grows nearly as
tall, and is almost as strong, as the Cedar. Ou the
joints of its branches it has a sort of pointa, which bear a
small nut, called, like the tree itself, Piniuni.
The Myrtle niDJ? ?}}, Al As, is found in Northern Gali-
lee, and especially in the vicinity of Zafed, in such abun-
dance, that they cover the tabernacles with the same. It
is from this district, where it is not rare to see Myrtle
trees which are fifteen to twenty feet in height, that the
holy city of Jerusalem, Chebron, and Jafia are supplied
with Myrtles, as they are not found at all in the country
of Judah.
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 609
■Willows of the Brook ShJ '31J;, A1 Zafzaf (Ezek. xvii.
5, n3i*3y Zaphzaphah), are met with in tlie vicinity of
Jordan, and 2 English miles southwest from Ilebron, on
the road to Dura (2 Chron. xi. 19), near the Wady Kura.
It costs U9 therefore much trouble to obtain the necessary
supply of willows for the feast of Sukkoth (Levit. xxiii.
40) ; since in the village of Colonia, the former Moza,
where this tree was so very abundant during the existence
of the holy temple (Tal. Sukkah, 45 a), not a single speci-
men is any more found.
The Thorn IDX, Al Zadr, the wood of which is hard,
and therefore used for cabinet-work, grows in abundance
in the plain of Jordan. It bears a small and sour plum,
called Al Dum, or Al Nebk. Among other smaller shrubs
is also met with the sloe-thorn, the fruit of which is better
than that of the European kind.
The Broom (Planta Genista) Dm? Al Ritham, grows to
a height of about eight feet, and has a hard wood, which
makes excellent charcoal ; it is found most abundantly m
the great desert. To this day there is a valley called
Wady Rithma from the large quantity of broom bushes
which grow there. (Compare with 1 Kings six. 4, 5.)
The incorrectness of rendering Rothem DHT with juniper
bush, as some translators have done, is proved by the fact
that not one shrub of the kind is found in all Palestine.
A species of Beech, Al Baks, which has a hard and
reddish wood, is also found in our country ; also a lighter
species, called Al Kikab, which is something like the
European ash tree.
The Canes njp, Al Kazab, which grow on the margin
of rivers and in swamps, are thick and often at times ten
to twelve feet in height. There is also met with a smaller
and thinner kind of reed, which is used for peus by the in-
habitants of Palestine.
The Sugar Cone, Al Kazab Mas, is much grown in the
»
310 PHODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
Holy Land, and particularly in the vicinity of Jaffa and
Gazza : it grows to the height of a man. As there are
no sugar mills in Palestine, and no one understands the art
of transforming the sugar cane into sugar, the sweet juice
is extracted from the cane merely by sucking it with the
mouth.
Cotton Vyio^f, Al Katun, is produced in large quan-
tities in the mountain of Lebanon and the vicinity of
Shechem, and is exported extensively to Europe. As we
possess no spinning machines, it will appear quite natural
that our spun cotton yarn i.'^ very coarse.
Flax nriB'S, Al Kuthin, is not cultivated in Palestine,
but is brought hither from Egypt, and is very fine and
valuable. But we obtain a supply from Bengal in India,
which is even superior in quality to the Egyptian flax.
Hemp D33p, Al Kauub, is not found in Palestine, but
is produced in the vicinity of the city of Damascus.
Tobacco, Al Dudan, is cultivated to a great extent in
the vicinity of Shechem and Zafed, and is of a good quality,
although not equal to that of Hungary or Turkey.
The Papyrus Shrub 1'J, Al Warak, is only found
sparingly in Northern Galilee, on the shores of the Joi^
dan, and has the shape of a large onion, with long leaves.
It is a plant consisting of many layers of leaves, one
within the other, like the coata of an onion. This plant
is not used any more for writing on, as we have plenty
of paper imported from abroad.
Jessamine D'Nin, Al Jasmin, is a well-known sweet-
scented flower. (Compare Easbi to Gen. xxx. 14.)
Cinnamon pOJp, is also found with us. (Compare Echa
Rabbethi, fol. 15, col. 4.)
The following names of plants, occurring in the Tal-
mudic writings, I have been able to ascertain.
The Sumach jlN, called the Tanner's Tree, Al Sumak,
THE VEGETABLE DNODOM. 311
does not grow high. It bears a grape-like fruit, which has
a sourish taste, and has a remedial power of checking the
diarrhoea. The kernels of this fruit are small and red
like small lentils. The leaves of this tree are used for
the tanning of skins.
Mustard ^Tin, Al Chardal, is grown in uncommonly
large quantities, especially, in the environs of Chebron.
In this year (1845) seven pounds Bavarian weight were
even sold as low as four cents (two pence sterling) . The
mustard plant grows to the height of six to eight feet.
It appears from Ketuboth, 111 5, that in olden times it
attained a very great height.
Dill n3tS^9 Al Sabeth, is similar in appearance to the
pldnt called horsetail ; it has a somewhat sharp taste, and
is cooked up with food.
The Tophach HfilD^ Al Djillan, is a species of vetch : it
produces a fruit resembling large peas ; it is black and
has the taste of a bean.
Rimin pOH, Al Rimi. This tree produces a thorny
fruit, the rind of which is like the apple, half red and
half green ; it has a sweet taste, and is in size about that
of a hazelnut. It has, like the olive, a single kernel. In
Eg3rpt, where it grows most abundantly, it is called Al
Nebk, and it is a species of sloe-thorn lOK (which see).
The Sorb Tree |mfiy, Al Serur, bears a fruit resem-
bling a small pear ; it has a single kernel, and is not of
a very good flavour.
Benoth Shikmah HOptS^ HliDj are a species of wild
mulberry figs, and are called Al Djimis. (See above, art.
Shikmin ; also Echah Rabbethi, jUDJ in One Djimis.)
The Caper HfiVJ Al Kafar, grows on shrubs, is a finger
long, and full of kernels. It is preserved either in salt or
vinegar. The kind mentioned in Berachoth, 36 a, and
elsewhere as mip, t]7V, pDHflp is another species, and
unknown to me.
312 PRODUCTS OF PALESTINE.
Coriander 1303, Al Kusl>ar, although not as good as
the European, is produced in large quantities in Palestine.
The Caraway plD3, Al Kamun, of Palestine is lat^r
than that produced abroad.
Cockle pT, Al Suan, is a epeciea of black grain, found
growing amidst the wheat ; it is very bitter, and makes
the persoa who eats it confused, aa though intoxicated.
Sappir I'QDi Al Mas, is a small, broad, and smooth
pea, having an agreeable taste.
Cardamona? [npllQ, Al Kurdman, are long and white
seeds, which are bitter, and are mostly used for feeding
poultry, but are also employed as a remedial agent.
Sbaiia yij^y, Al Lubia, is larger than the Mas or Sappir
just mentioned; it has a reddish colour, and is well-fla-
voured and wholesome.
Kishui'm D'NltS'p- This generic name, used in Scrip-
ture, for instance, m Num. xi. 5, denotes various kinds of
cucumbers and pumpkins, of which the following two are
the principal ones : 1, Al Kulwasi, which is red in the
inside, and weighs not rarely a hundred pounds, but is as
tasteless as large ; 2, Al Kara, which is white (Sotah,
10 a; Kerithoth, G «). The usual cucumber, niB'p Al
Fakua, is long and thin. Melaffin paflSo Al Chiar, is the
name of the usual small pumpkins.
Lettuce HITn Al Chasa,* is the ordinary head lettuce,
of which there are two kinds, the garden and Seld, or
wild salad.
The Endive pE'SlJ? Al Hindiv, so called from Hindia =
• Wtile speaking of herba, I wish to elucidate the Tamcha Ksan of
Pegaehim ii., § 6, which is generally considered to be the horscrodiBh, but
according ki my view erroneously, since at this day there grows, to be
aoie, not in Palestine, but m the Borhary states, an herb Tabga, i. e.
Tamcha, by the usual changes of b for m, and g for ch, which has much
aimiUrity in taste with the Chazereth or Lettuce. Its leaves are like
those of the Karpaa ; it is an herb resembling the onion. The leaves are
not eaten; only the hulb is. The horseradish, however, is, I think,
meant J)y Adal Vi^', at the end of Tract&tQ Ukiim.
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 318
India, whence it originally came, is somewhat bitter, and
resembles the lettuce or chasa. There is also a wild
endive, Al Skikara ; it is very long, twice or three times
taller than the common endive, has a bitter taste, and is
eaten with vinegar. In Echa Rabbathi to chap. iii. 42,
occurs the phrase ^yii OyH Eres Nidbi, which is the
correct reading, as mentioned by Rabbi Menachem di
Luzano, in his Maarigh, and means " Poison Endive."
The Leek ♦B^n3, Al Kurath, is not found any more in Pa-
lestine. The same is the case with the Charob Bean 3nrT>
Al Chrub. This bean derives its Arabic name, so similar
to the Charub tree, or St. John's Bread, from its taste
being like that of the kernels of the fruit of this tree.
Turnips HShy Al Lifth. This name is applied indiffe-
rently to both the white and yellow turnip ; but in the
Egypto- Arabic dialect they have different names for these
two species, the first, or the white, being called Al Shal-
gam, and the other Al Shunder.
Nippuz T^IQJ, is a species of radish, and is found of two
varieties. One is flat and round, resembles the white
turnip, and has an outward reddish skin, and is pungent
and agreeable to the taste ; the other is long and thin, has
a white skin and no sharpness of taste : the last is the pJS
Zenone proper ; the other is the Nippuz, and is called by
the Arabs Al Truf.
Tardim DH^in? Al Salka, is an herb, the leaves of which
resemble those of the endive; they are boiled and eaten,
Leiinin yi^J^9 ^1 Kalaf, is the Greek Chrysolachanon,
or Atraphaxis, a kind of spinach.
Cabbage 3^3, Al Krumb, also called Al Sartab, or
Kunbit.
The Cauliflower ^in31^n, Al Kamibed, grows very
high, and has a thick, strong stalk, which often grows to a
height of more than four feet. It is reported in Ketuboth,
314 PHODTTCTS OP PALESTINE.
Ill b, that formerly this plant grew so tall that they had
to employ a sort of ladder to reach the top.
Perishim D'E'nS, is the same with Chabushim D'lriSn,
Quinces, which see.
Tharmu.s DIDHH, Al Thurmus, is a sort of large pea-
shaped bean, and is bitter. To render it fit for food, it
must be soaked in cold water for a day or two; but it re-
quires but little boilbig.
Hlsilus Oiytha, or the wild fig-bean, is so bitter that it
cannot be eaten.
Lafsan |D3S> Al Lafsan, and in Greek Sinapi, has a taste
like the turnip, and their leaves resemble also each other.
It grows to a height of two feet or more. It is not found
in our country, but is a product of Eg^-pt. Its seeds are
known as the Egyptian mustard.
Melons D'lTlODN, Al Batich, are of two kinds — 1, the
water-melon, Batich Achmar, i. e. the red melon, because
it is inside quite red ; it i^ often twenty to thirty pounds
in weight : and 2, the sugar-melon, Batich Assar, i. e. the
golden yellow melon, the inside of which, consisting of
nothing but seeds and water, is unfit to eat.
Rue DJ*fl! Al Sadabia, is a bitter and acrid herb, and
only used as a medicine.
Mallow n'oSrii Al Kubisa, a flower-bearing herb.
Talthin vrhpi, Al Chalba, is a species of sweet clover,
which men can eat In a raw state ; its seeds, too, are
edible. This herb, which grows extensively in Eg^-pt,
resembles the European clover, with this difference, how-
ever, that its leaves are longer and more pointed, and that
it bears a white flower. Some think that Al Chalba is
the Cliilef .*]S'n mentioned at the end of Sotah.
Wild Safiron, jr'ipr Al Kartum, grows extensively with
us ; it is scentless and tasteless, and has nothing to recom-
mend it but its colour.
Indigo D'ODK, Al Nil, is an herb which grows in Al
THB VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 315
Gor, in the neighbourhood of Jericho. It is boiled down
in order to obtain the dye. But the Palestine indigo does
not equal that brought from India.
Redwood flKIS, Al Pua, is a wood brought hither by
the pilgrims from India ; it is chipped up and used for
dyeing red.
The Poppy pj^3, Al Kaskas, so called because the seed
rattles in the dried capsule, is but little cultivated in Pa-
lestine, but largely in Syria.
Sesamum VQtffQWy Al Sumsum; its seed looks like
flaxseed, but is larger. It is good for food, and people
prepare from it an excellent oil, suitable both for cooking
and lighting. This useful plant grows in large quantities
in the vicinity of Lod (Lydda) and Ramla^ but is rarely
found in Galilee.
Peppermint HJlil, Al Nan6 (Yerush. Sabbath, vii. yyj^i
Nanang), has, as is well known, a sharp spicy taste.
Portulacca or Purslain HTJI, Al Ridjla, is an herb
which is eaten.
Dardar D**fm, Al Dardar^ is a prickly plant, resem-
bling the nettle ; it grows- abundantly, especially in the
province of Galilee, and is eaten by the peasants residing
there. To this species of thistle also belongs
Achbaioth nV33y, Al Akul. Of this herb, which is
supplied with prickles, they eat only the inside, which has
a sourish taste.
Asparagus ♦f13*l*, I have never met in this country.
Wild Parsley ^3D13, Al Kusbra, not to be mistaken^ for
Kusbar ^303, the Coriander described above, is an herb
very much resembling the celery, and bears on the top a
small green fruit. It is boiled and mixed dp with soup.
Chervil 0313, Al Kraps, is a species of herb resembling
the celery.
Lotem D6317. On the Fir Tree of the coimtry, Zno-
ber, there grows a hard, grape-like fixiit, wherein the seed
316 PRODUCTS OF FXLESTII4E. ^^^^^H
is contained. It is called Lotem DDI? Al Chabkrus, and
is roasted and eaten.
The Rose m, Al Wardi, grows in abundance with us,
especially in the level country of Shai-on, and in the vici-
nity of the village of Malchi, situated four English miles
southwest from Jerusalem, We have two kinds of roses,
the red and the whito. The white ones are soaked in
water till they have communicated to it the refreshing
scent of these flowers. This water is then distilled, and in
this manner the fragrant rose-water is obtained. On the
surface of this a few fatty drops collect, which are the pre-
cious oil of roses ; and in order to obtain one ounce of this
material, near a hundred pounds of roses are required.
In the vicinity of Jericho there grows in the hedges a
species of rose called the Jericho Rose, which is espe-
cially famous, and is exported even to foreign parts.
This Rose has the peculiar property, that, though it has
been plucked many years, and has become withei-ed, as
may readily be supposed, commences to bloom again so
soon as it is put in water, and to expand anew, as though
it stood on its green bush in its native land.
Gargar Ijnj, Al Girgir, resembles the water-cress, and
is bitter and very sharp,
Karshin pi!^*lD, Al Karsin, is a species of lentils having
small round kernels resembling peas. They are used for
feeding camels.
The Onion "TH^, Al Bazal. In Egypt is found a large
onion, which is remarkably fine, and has an excellent
taste, and is eaten raw. In the neighbourhood of Ashke-
lon, also, they are particularly good. We have also a
wild onion, Al Buzal, which is very large, but unfit for
food, and only used for medicinal purposes.
Garlic DIB*) Al Thum, is quite abundant with us, and
is very fine.
Kalokasia ? Dplp, Al Kalkas, is a species of potatoe, but
THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 317
much better. Not rarely tubers are met with, which weigh
three to four pounds.
Hyssop 2irtt, Al Satr, is found of various kinds. One
resembles the sage, is bitter and acrid, is pounded up and
eaten bs a medicine. There is, however, another kind,
which grows in hedges, on thorns, and is not fit to be
eaten. It is probably the |V 2irK, the Grecian Hyssop of
Sabbath, xiv, § 3.
Cress ? Onnti^y Al Rashad, is also called the mustard of
our country ; it is an herb which is of a sharp taste, and
is used as a salad.
Black Caraway nifp? Al Kas-cha, consists of small, black
seeds, which are kneaded up with the dough, or are
strewed on bread, and render it pleasant to the taste, and
impart to it an agreeable scent.
Kopher "ifiia (Spice-pink ?), Al China, does not grow in
Palestine, but is imported by the Mahomedan pilgrims
from Mekka. It is pounded up, and is used by Turkish
women to paint their face and nails.
Turkish Pepper 21DT SflSfi, Al Pilpil Achdar, i. e.
green pepper. There are two kinds, the green and the
red. It resembles the caper, and is an acrid herb ; it is
full of seed, and is pickled either in vinegar or salt water
(Yoma, 81 b).
Atron p*1t3y> Al Katran, is a sort of gum which is ob-
tained from the Znober Tree, a species of fir.
Lot 01/ (Gen. xxxvii. 25), is, according to my view, the
Gum Arabic (Al Samk), which is so abundantly obtained
from the chestnut and almond trees.
Sage Jt»^l7D, Al Miriamia, is found abundantly with us,
especially on the road to Chebron. The shrub, however,
is much stronger, and the leaves longer than the European
kind. The infusion of sage is drank as a medicine.
CHAPTER III.
MINERALS.
In general, all the mountains to the west of the Jordan
consist of calcareous earth ; and even the stones of these
mountains are of this soft substance, lime ; and it is not
rare to find pieces of lime which weigh above twenty-five
pounds. From this cause, that is, because the soil and
rocks are soft, it arises that Palestine has so many caverns.
These are found more particularly on Mount Carmel, iu
the vicinity of Beth-Lechem in Galilee, Nazara, and Jeru-
salem, to wit, on Mount Olivet. The Mount Lebanon
also is of limestone formation. This same formation ex-
tends likewise to the Great Desert as far as Mount Sinai,
for there the granite formation commences, of which Sinai
itself consists. East of Jordan also, the soil is hi general
of a chalk and Umestone formation. But in the Lower
Haurau (Trachonitis, the district of Argob), Djulun
(Golan), and Iturea (Jetur), the ground is composed of
basalt stones. .To the south of the Dead Sea, near Wady
Azy, commences the sandstone formation, which is the
character of all the mountains of Idumea, on the east.
oi^y son.
Is found in abundance in the vicinity of Hebron, where-
fore many bricks are made there, and you see in the village
almost no other than brick houses. But as these bricks
MINERALS. 319
are not burnt and are merely dried in the sun and by ex-
posure to the air, and as the houses in the Eaat moreover,
have no sloping roofs, it does not rarely occur that in a
continued rain the houses become softened and tumble in.
In Galilee, and particularly in Zafed, where the tope of the
houses consist of a covering of clay soil, they must be
carefully levelled and smoothed over with a cylindrical
roller during rainy weather, to prevent the entrance of
the water. If this precaution be omitted, then do the in-
habitants incur the danger of being buried alive beneath
the ruins of their houses. Hence the custom has always
been in those districts to offer up penitential prayers, and
to hold a fast during a long continuance of rainy weather.
(Orach Chayim, chap, clxxvi., § 11.) In the country of
Judssa, however, and especially in Jerusalem, the rain is
always regarded as a blissful beneflcence of God, promoting
the growth of the produce of the earth; and not the least
danger need be feared for the houses, since they are built
of massive stones, and the roofs are overlaid with a skil-
fully prepared water-tight mortar called Kisennil, It is
prepared in different ways. It usually consists of a mix-
ture of sand, lime, and the residuum which remains in
the pan after soap ia boiled. This viscid, black-looking
mixture is plastered over the roof, and is then beaten
with sticks for a day or two till it is dry, and is become
nearly as hard as a stone. Another water-tight mass
is produced by taking pounded stone, or better yet,
pounded potsherds, and mixing it up with eggs, cotton
wool, and a little lime and oil. It is more costly than the
first, and has a white apjiearance ; and it becomes by ex-
posure as shining and hard as porcelain or glass. Our
bathing-tubs, which are placed on the roofs to catch the
rain-water, arc made of Kisermil. The earthen vessels
made in Palestine, as the people are not acquainted with
the process of glazing them, are in bad condition and en-
I
320
PRODUCTS OP PALESTINE.
tirely useless for cookiug ; wherefore we have for the moat
part metal vessels for culinary purposes.
In the neighbourhood of the village Semach, on the
shore of Lake Chinuereth, is found a clayey earth resem-
bling gypsum, of which the best pottery of Palestine is
made.
I
I
I have already remarked that all the mountains of
Palestine consist of limestone. Chalk and gypsum we
have none with us ; they are imported from abroad, and are
almost as dear aa sugar, although the island of Candia is
not far from us. Real marble is also not met with ; still
there is a species of stoue, Al Balat, resembling this sub-
stance, found in the mountains of Rama and Ramalah, as
also in the vicinity of Jordan, both of a white and a black
variety ; it is equally as hard and capable of being polished
as marble, and is used for flooring houses and courts.
In the environs of Jerusalem are found many flintstones.
In our glass-houses, a few of which are near Hebron, thej'
use not, as elsewhere, powdered flint in the manufacture
of glass, but a fine sand which is brought from the sea-
shore. In these glass-houses they can make nothing but
drinking glasses and bottles; but these fabrics also are so
miserably bad, that they cannot sustain the burden of
their contents : so that if they are entirely filled, and you
attempt tu raise them up, the upper part will remain in
your hand whilst the lower one will drop away in pieces.
They also manufacture in these glass-houses at Hebron all
sorts of playthings of glass, such as finger rings, bracelets,
&c., which, clumsy and miserable as they are, are sent
away to all parts of the world, solely because they are
made in the Holy Land.
MINERALS. 321
SALTS.
We have in Palestine a sort of marine salt, which is
made in the following manner : — Ditches are dug on the
sea-shore, which are filled with sea-water, which gri^
dually evaporates through the heat of the sun, and the
dry residuum is salt. In those places, also, where the sea
overflows at times the dry land, much salt is foimd after
its recess ; this is the case especially in the neighbourhood
of Gazza.
The salt obtained aroimd the Dead Sea is very bitter,
has a saltpetrep-like taste, and when thrown on the fire
it melts in part and ignites in part, like ordinary saltpetre.
It is very iiyurious to the eyes, as our sages already ob-
served (Chulin, 105 h) that the salt of Sodom blinds the
eyes.
Streams are found in Syria, the water in which is salty,
and is used for the manufacture of salt. Twenty English
miles east of Aleppo runs a large stream called Al Dhab,
gold stream, which falls into a large and deep valley,
where its waters remain without egress. It, however,
flows only in winter, and is entirely dried up in summer.
In the month of Tamuz (July), this tvhole valley is covered
with salt. This stream is generally supposed to be the
Ahava mentioned in Ezra viii..l5, and I suppose that
Dhab is only a corrupted pronunciation for Ahava. La
the village of Al Tilp, near this stream, is a very ancient
building, which is said to have been the former Syna-
gogue of Ezra. In this village there live permanently but
ten Jewish families. But as the air is very salubrious
and pure, many of the inhabitants of Aleppo select it as
their summer's residence.
NAPHTHA
Is only found. in the vicinity of the Dead Sea. At the
21
822 PBODUGTS OF PALESTINB.
recurrence of an earthquake the Naphtha streams down
in masses from the mountains on its shores, and it then
floats in large pieces on tiie surface of the sea. This erup-
tion of Naphtha appears to be a sort of lava. At the
earthquake of the year 5594 (1834), that substance was
seen streaming out in large quantities from all the rocks
in the environs of Al Kerak (see Kir Moab) . There is
also found in the neighbourhood of the Dead Sea, near
Nebi Mousa, a species of black stones which bum like
coals, probably a sort of stone coal, which are used for
cooking by those who travel in that part of the country.
These stones have the wonderful property, that, when
brought to Jerusalem, they lose nearly altogether their
combustible quality, and become, in this respect, pretty
much like all other stones.
On the Egyptian frontiers is found a bluish-green Natron,
resembling alum, which is dug out of the earth. It has
a very salty taste. The best species of this substance is
white. It is carried from Egypt to Palestine, and is used
here for cleansing and scouring. In Hebron it is also put
into the kettle wherein they prepare glass. In ancient
times soap was made out of a mixture, of which Natron
was a component part. Generally *)rii Nether (Jer. ii.
22), given in the English version with Nitre, is rendered
by other translators with Chalk, but incorrectly. At pre-
sent they prepare, in this country, a soap made of lime
and olive oil ; a greAt deal of which is manufactured in
Jerusalem and exported abroad.
METALS.
Copper. Except in the neighbourhood of Aleppo, no
Copper is found anywhere in Palestine. I was, however,
told that Northern Galilee and the lower range of Leba-
non contain veins of Copper ; but no one deems it worth
'"18 while to bring to light the subterranean treasures of
minerals: 328
this, desolate country. Othermse there can be no doubt
that this metal would be found abundantly, as Moses
said, Deut. viii. 9, " A land whose stones are iron, and
out of whose hills thou mayest dig copper," (See also
ibid, xxxiii. 25.)
Iron is found in the neighbourhood of the town Dir Al
Kainr, which is situated on the Lebanon. The Jews living
near this place rent the mines from the Emir, and work
them with iheir own hands ; they also make horseshoes
out of the metal thus obtained, and send them about
through the whole country. On the Egyptian frontier,
likewise, copper and iron are obtained.
OF MDfXBAL BPBIM08,
Which were formerly so plentiful in Palestine, there
are but two to be met with at present. The one is the
celebrated nnSD *Dn> the hot spring of Tiberias, which is
a spring almost boiling hot, and has always a strong sul-
phurous smell, and is at a distance of one mile south of
Tiberias. The quality of the water is very much like
that of Karlsbad in Bohemia, and Wiesbaden in Hessia,
and it is drunk and used outwardly for bathing as a
remedy. It is especially efficacious in rheumatic com-
plaints. Abraim Pacha built near the spring a new and
elegant bathing house for travellers. There was before
that time an old bathing establishment. About a year
ago (in 1844) 5604, the aqueduct of the new building was
injured, and was rendlered quite useless in consequence;
still no one thought of doing anything to repair it,* The
old house, however, had always a supply of water.
•
* In the year 5608 (1848), the Galileeans, i. e. the inhabitants of Ti-
berias, Zafed, and their environs, made a general collection to restore
Abraim's bath^ and operations were actoallj commmoed to effect it ; but
the worthy Pachalik of Akbk cared little about it, and the collection
came only from private bands.
324 FBODITGTS OF PALESTINE.
The second mineral spring is at Geder (see Bosh Hashar
nah, 23 b; Sanhediin, 108a; Chulin, 61 a), in the vicinity
of the river Yarmuch. Here are found remarkable ruins,
out of which the hot water bubbles up. It equals the
water of Tiberias in heat and the sulphurous odour ; but
there is no bathing establishment, because the place where
this spring bursts forth is a ruin, and the whole country
around is a desert.
But the water of Siloah, near the holy city, likewise, I
believe myself authorized to reckon among the mineral
springs, because it is heavy, salty, and aperient ; and I
can attest from actual experience the popular belief that
those who drink of it habitually are exempt from the chills
and fevers which are so prevalent in Palestine.
CHAPTER IV.
DESCRIPTION OF THE CLIMATE OF PALESTINE.
The promise of Scripture, which says, concerning the
land of Israel (Deut. xi. 11), "Of the rain of heaven shait
thou drink water," is still confirmed at this day. In every
house almost of Palestine are cisterns, into which is
gathered the rain-water which runs down from the roofe.
These closed cisterns are deep and broad; they are coated
with the kisermil mentioned above, so that not a single
drop of water can leak out. The water thus obtained is,
— although it may not be expected by those unacquainted
with it,— quite fresh, and good for drinking. Nevertheless
we have many springs, but nowhere so many a^ in She-
chem, where there are wells in almost every street. In
the long absence of rain these springs become dry, no less
than our cisterns.
In ordinary years the rain commences to descend in
the month of Maroheshvan (October) , This so-called first
rain (mv) lasts at times an entire week without inter-
ruption, ceases then for a brief space, but occasionally also
several days or even- weeks, and commences again ; but it
often is absent till near Adar (March) . Then commences
the latter rain B^W70, which comes down with great
violence, and lasts the whole month of Adar, and even a
part of Nissan (April). But it has been known to con-
tinue to the middle of lyar (May) . As soon as the first
rain is over, the soil is sufficiently moistened and soft for
ploughing and sowing, and the farmer then begins his
S2b nor coMjiB OP PALKmiK.
field labour (comp. Sabbath, 90 b). But through the
whole summer there jEaUs not a edngle drop of rain,
although the sky is not rarelj obscured with clouds.
Once during my residence it rained in summer, and this
was on Thursday, the 28th Sivan, 6601 (the 17th June,
1841), at a little past midday, when the rain came down
quite fast. This unheard of phenomenon caused such a
sensation tn the whole of Palestine, as though the eptire
world had been thrown out of its course. This ^ extra-
ordinary oocurrenoe had actually for its mournful consc-
ience the destruction of all the fruit. > The more it rains
at the proper time, the more blessed and abundant is the
product of man's labour; whereas, if the rains remain
absent, nothing grows, and the country is then threatened
with famine. Such an unhappy time was experienced by
the inhabitants of Palestine in the year 5591 (1831),
when, in consequence of the absence of rain, the dearth
was so great that the price of wheat rose from li to 18
piastres, and the distress caused thereby was boundless.
Bains fall in Palestine mostly with a west, or west-
northwest wind ; this is succeeded by an east wind, which
renders the. atmosphere perfectly pure and clear.
SNOW.
In most of the years no snow whatever is seen in Pales-
tine ; but occasionally much snow falls in Shebat (Febru-
ary), and lies then several weeks (comp. Yoma, 35 6; 1
Mace. xiii. 22). In the year 5604 (1844) there fell a
little snow, even on the 22d Nissan (11th of April). In
the year 5514 (1753) there fell an immense quantity of
snow, and the cold was at that time so intense that in the
district of Galilee twenty-6ve men froze to death near
Nazareth. An old man once told me that in that year it
snowed even so violently in Sivan (beginning of June),
that no one was able to attend Synagogue in Jerusalem
THE GLIVATB W FAUSTDffB. 327
on the morning of Pentecost^ because the heavy fall of
snow during the night prevented every one from quitting
his house. Unusual as such an occurrence is, it must
nevertheless have been witnessed in former times, as it is
reported by the Italian traveller of Leghorn, who journeyed
through the country in 5282, that he had seen a monu-
ment in a ruin near the village of Brem, in Upper Galilee
(although it does not exist now) , which bore the following
mscription : inii^«n iim« |D»i2 Natr hvrt "jy jnonn h»
|VD2 " Be not astonished if snow should fall in Nissan —
we have seen it in Sivan."
The temperature of Palestine averages during the
winter, 8°-9° above .0 of Reaumur's thermometer — 50° to
53 i° of Fahrenheit. In summer, however, it rises to 21®
to 22°, and not rarely to 2&°, i. e. 82° to 92° of F. Storms,
accompanied by thunder and lightning, we have often,
but only in winter. * As we have no lightning conductors
in all Palestine, the lightning often strikes, and causes
some damage.*
Although we have great heat in summer, it is by no
means oppressive, as it is tempered by a pleasant and
cooling breeze. I therefore, found the air of Italy, where
this pleasant and cooling breeze is wanting, much closer
and more oppressive than that of Palestine. And only
now and then, when there is with us no refreshing air, the
♦ My elder brother, Rabbi Hayim Schwarz, Rabbi of Hurben, called my
attention to the fact, that to judge from Toscphtah Sabbath, chap, vii.,
the Talmudists had a knowledge of an apparatus for conducting away
lightning. These are the words; ono nr nn D^nnaxn yi hn2 njnun
v\i:3 n? nn pnan "jao d«i o'DJ^in ':3D dni mraKn "To put iron between
young chickens is [prohibited^ it being] the superstitious custom of the
Emorites, i. e. heathens in general ; but to put iron somewhere on account
of the thunder and lightning is permitted.'' But I found yet another
confirmation for the correctness of this view in the following, from Talmud
Yenishalmi, finis Nazir: kStid [nn p S'm mj?o pin «1K "The tempest
also dreads the same material — the iron.''
328 THE CLIMATE OF PALESTINE.
effect of the sun is extraordinary, and the huming heat
is nearly insupportable; of which the following may serve
a8 a striking example. Not long since there lay in the
yard of ray neighbour's house, a metal vessel ■which was
exposed for some hours to the direct rays of the sun ; a
child came to fetch it away, but burnt its hands bo effec-
tually that they became blistered as though they had been
scorched with fire.
In those districts where the warm air, being enclosed
within the mountains, is not cooled off by the usual breeze,
as for example in the vicinity of Jordan and the city of
Tiberias, vegetation is much more rank and productive
than elsewhere, and there is found the first ripe fruit,
both on tree and field, of all Palestine. The heat is par-
ticularly great in Tiberias, wherefore you -will scarcely see
any one properly clad in the summer in this town, since
nearly all walk about wrapped up in a sort of large shirt.
The winds of Palestine blow in winter with nearly the
same force as in summer, and are pretty unifonn and re-
liable in their influence on the state of the weather ; and
I may give the following well-founded general data, de-
rived from actual observation, as applicable to this subject.
The east wind betokens cold, and causes an interruption
of the rain. The west wind brings rain. The north wind
interrupts the rain ; but should it blow before the rain
seta ill, it gathers the clouds in large masses and promot<.'8
the outpourmg of a copious rain, which not rarely lasts
for several days under the continued accompaniment of
this wind. The south wind brings rain, and betokens
warm weather. In regard to the prevalence of the various
winds in the different months, the followiug general obser-
vations may be reUed on as eufficiently exact :
From Kislev to Adar, December to March, we have the
wind from the south or southwest.
From Adar to Tamuz, March to July, the east.
THE CLIMATE OP PALESTINE. 329
Prom Tamuz to Elul, July to September, the north ; and
Prom Elul to Kislev, September to December, the north-
west ; so that the wind is most generally from the west. (See
Baba Bathra, ii. § 9 ; also Yerushalmi in the passage cited.)
EABTHQUAKfiS
Are not rare in Palestine ; nay, scarcely a year elapses
in which slight shocks are not experienced. In this year
(5605), we had two such slight shakings of the earth. But
Palestine has unfortunately been often visited by such
shocks also as caused the loss of many human lives. As
a proof we name the following fifteen :
1, at the time of the King Uzziah (see Amos i. 1) ;
2, at the time of Herod, in which 10,000 men werfe killed
(see Megillah, 3 a, Baba Kamma, 82 b) ; 3, in the year
4075 (315), when the city Rabbath Bne Ammon was
destroyed ; 4, in the year 4344 (584) ; 5, in the year
4506 (746); 6, in the year 4509 (749); 7, in the year
4516 (756) ; 8, in the year 4865 (1105) ; 9, in the year
4874 (1114) ; 10, in the year 4880 (1120), m the reign
of Baldwin II.; 11, in the year 4930 (1170) ; 12, m the
year 4962 (1202) ; 13, in the year 5518 (1758), in which
calamity the city of Baal-bek, situated at the foot of
Mount Lebanon, was destroyed, and, moreover, 140 men
lost their lives at Zafed; 14, was the first earthquake
which ever I experienced and witnessed ; this occurred
in the year 5594 (1834) ; and lastly, 15, the well-known
terrible earthquake of '5597 (1837), which devastated
the cities of Zafed and Tiberias, with many villages in
the vicinity. Earthquakes were formerly more frequently
experienced in Syria than even in Palestine especially
during the time of the crusades ; and the cities of Antio-
chia (Antikia) and Tripoli (Trablus), were often visited
by this terrible scourge. Such a calamity also destroyed
Aleppo in the year 5581 (1821), when thousands of human
THE CUMATE OF PALESTINE.
beings perished. The further particuliu's I mean to give at
auother place.
STATE OF TnE TSMPERATUBE, WEATHER, AKD TEOSTATION OF THE WSOLB
YEAR, ACCORDLNQ TO THE SUCCEHBION OF TOE K
Nissan, April, has for the most part much raiu, but only
in the first lialf of the month ; strong, and at times cold
winds prevail. The commoner vegetables, such as tamarisk,
artichoke, and beans, are just now ripe, although barley
lias attained itq maturity long ere this. (See Exod. ix. 31.)
In the year 5604, new wheat was brought from Al Gor
as early as the commencement of this month ; but this is
a rare event. The whole surface of the ground is now full
of roses and other flowers. When I first trod on the sacred
soil in the month of Nissan, 5593 (April, 1S33), I was not
a little surprised to see the whole vegetation of the valley
of Sharon in such a state of forwardneps, as it is in Ger-
many, whence I came, not before July or August.
lyar, May. The rain has long since ceased, and you
see not even a little cloud in the sky. The air is pure, and
the heat quite moderate. In the district of the Jordan,
the wheat harvest has long since commenced, whiUt this
grain is only half ripe in the other parts of Palestine ; but in
some parts the wheat is cut before it attains more than half
its maturity, and is dried in the sun or by the fire, to
produce the so-called green com, Al Frik. Cucumbers also
are now ripe ; and in the vicinity of Gazza, the apricot
is already gathered.
Sivan, June. The heat increases. The sky is cloud-
less; the dew inconsiderable. All the fruits of the plum
kind are ripe, and all the com species of the land gar-
nered in.
Tamuz, July. The heat is now very great ; the dew
is not abundant. Many fruits are now ripe, for instance,
THE CLIMATE OF PALESTIKE. 331
apples, pears, water and sugar-melons, also a portion of
the grapes.
Ab, August. The great heat continues, but the sky is
sometimes overclouded. Much dew. Figs, St. John's
Bread, &c., are now ripe.
Elul, September. The heat decreases. The clouds
accumulate ; and t)ie dew is at night so abundant, that it
appears as though it had rained. The grapes, pomegra-
nates, sesamum, quinces, and lemons, are now ripe.
Tishry, October. Temperature about the same as in
preceding month. Many clouds. The dew decreases;
occasional rains. Olives and dates have attained ma-
turity.
Marcheshvan, November. Many clouds ; strong winds
and rains. Citrons, China oranges, and other fruit of the
orange tribe, as also turnips, and herbs, are now ripe.
Easlev, December. Temperature the same as preceding
month. The sowing of grain in the field has alieady
commenced. Although the oranges and kindred fruit
have been long since ripe, they continue to mature on
the trees, till towards April and May (compare Tahnud
Sukkah, 35 a).
Tebeth, January. Very cold. Almonds are in blossom;
most plants and tuberous roots, radishes, cabbages, green
(mions, which continue in the field till September, are
ripe.
Shebat, February. Very cold, with occasional snow
and thin ice.
Adar, March. The air becomes of a higher tempera-
ture, with occasional strong winds, and much rain. The
fruit trees are in blossom; and garlic is ripe, but con-
tinues out till June.
I
PART III.
A SHORT HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
INXKODOCTION.
As in the geographical reference to Palestine, we have
been compelled to be content with mere traces, the same
will be the case in our historical account of this country.
There are nowhere to be met witli regular documents in
respect to its history, states, and towns ; the past seems
to have been entirely for^ttcn; so that the whole coun-
try cared, so to say, only for the present, and took no cog-
nizance of what had preceded or was to follow. It is true
that Bome few Arabic historians have written something
concerning Palestine, such as Abulfeda and Serif ibn Idrus;
but their works have almost entirely disappeared, as was
to be supposed would be the case under a government
which had not and suffered not a free press. It was only
with the greatest trouble that I could obtain here and
there an historical dociunent, and I extracted therefrom
only what interested me, — that is, what has reference to
the Israelitish people, but not the general and to us indif-
ferent accounts and narratives. Reports referring to
modem times, I obtained occasionally by way of tradition.
Therefore it cannot excite surprise that the historical por-
tion of my book should be so brief and simple.
I divide the same into four periods.
Period I. From the destruction of the temple under
Titus, in the year 3828 (68), till the time of the conquest
of Palestine by the Mahomedans in the year 4374 (614),
consequently a period of 546 years.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 338
Period n. From 4374 to the conquest of the country
by the Christian Crusaders in the year 4859 (1099), an
interval of 485 years.
Period III. From the year 4859 to the reign of Sultan
Seliman the Great, in the year 5280 (1520), an interval
of 421 years.
Period IV. From 5280 (1520) to the present year 5605
(1845), an interval of 325 years.
A 8H0BT BIVIEW OF THI DmnSBENT QOVIRNMSlfTS IN PALESTINE IN
THE ABOVE PERIODS.
In the year 3828, at the time of the destruction of
Jerusalem, Palestine waa under the dominion of the
Romans.
In the year 4092 (332) > under Emperor Constantine,
the Greek — Romano-Greek Empire.
In the year 4374 (614), under King Kusarai (Chosroes ?)
for a brief space, Persian, but later, again, under the go-
vernment of the Greeks.
In the year 4397 (637) under Calif Omar, Arab or Ma-
homedan.
In the year 4502 (742), it was for a short time under
the dominion of the Turks or Tartars, but at a later period
again under the Arabs.
In the year 4628 (868), under the Califs of Egypt.
In the year 4800 (1040), again under the Turks or
Tartars.
In the year 4859 (1099), under the European Chris-
tians.
In the year 4947 (1187), under Saladin, Calif of Egypt.
In the year 5004 (1244), under Casiunus, i. e. under
Turks or Tartars.
In the year 5051 (1291), under Sultan Asa of Egypt^
under Mameluks.
334 msTORT OF Palestine.
In tlie year 6161 (1401), under Timurlan, for a short
time, i.e., under Mongols, then again under the Mameluks.
In the year 5278 (1518), under Selim of Constantinople,
under Ottoman?.
In the year 5591 (1831), under Mabmud AU, Pacha of
Egypt.
In the year 5G0O (1840), under Abd al Medjid. Otto-
man.
Here would well apply the passage from Judges ix. 2 :
" What is bettor for you, that seventy men, all the sons of
Jerubaal, should rule over you, or tliat one man should
be your master ?"
mOM THB DEHTRBCTION OF JEBnSALEM TO THE
The tragic occurrences accompanying the destruction of
Jerusalem and of the temple are sufficiently told in detail
in Josephus, the Talmud, and Midrashim, and it is useless
to speak of them in this place. I will therefore confine
myself to the history subsequent thereto.
Jerusalem was, unfortunately for us, destroyed by the
Roman general Titus, in the reign of his father, the Em-
peror Vespasian. It ia doubtful whether the city was
completely demolished by the Romans, or whether they
did or did not cause the plough to pass over it. as the
accounts on this head are very contradictory. Josephus,
in his Jewish War, book vii. chap, i., says that the army
of Titus pulled down and destroyed the whole city, so that
it could not be distinguished any more where it had stood,
and that he left standing but a few towers, as a token of
hia prowess to posterity ; but he does not mention that the
city was ploughed up, Whereas in tlie Talmud, finis
Taanitb, it is stated that the plough was actually passed
over the site of Jerusalem, though this ploughing is there
mentioned to have been done by Tumus Rufus Dlfln D1J11 13.
flISTORY OF PALESTINE. 335
who lived at a later period, at the time of Rabban Gamliel^
but not by Titus. In other books, the name of the one
who passed the plough over Jerusalem is given as Titus
Aniosrufus, or Tyrannus Rufus ; and in Yerushalmi Taar
nith, and Echa Rabbethi, he is called quite briefly Rufus.
It would, however, appear that this representation of utter
destruction must not be taken so very literally, since we
find in several passages of the Talmud — ^for instance, in
Berachoth, 3 a, finis Makkoth, &c. — mention made of
Dlti^T)^ ^\^yT^ ruins in Jerusalem ; and the very passage
of finis Taanith reads dSwH DH DlSn DliniD trnPTCTO
" When Tumus Rufus ploughed up the oiUer Jiall of the
temple," which would denote that only the temple was
wasted in this manner, but not the whole city of Jeru-
salem, of which ruins were allowed to exist.
In the year 3844 (84), Domitian, the brother of Titus,
ascended the Roman throne. He was a wicked, tyrannical
ruler, and in especial hated and persecuted the Jews. He
endeavoured to destroy all the descendants of David. It
was imder him that, as just said, Tumus Rufus pulled
down the remains of the temple, and passed the plough
over its site. He also pronounced sentence of death over
Rabban Gamliel, who was of the family of David, though
he succeeded in escaping, as is related in Taanith, 29 a.
This Domitian was at length slain by his own servants,
after he had reigned fourteen years.
In the year 3858 (98) Nerva, a worthy regent, and a
humane man, who was at the same time a friend to the
Jews, assumed the government. He endeavoured every-
where to improve the condition of our people, and to
render more tolerable the oppression they sufiered under
the Roman proconsuls. He, however, only reigned two
years.
He was succeeded, in 3860 (100), by Trajan, who was
also a very great friend to the Jews ; and he gave them,
336
mSTORV OP PALESTINE.
at the time of Rabbi Joshua Ben Chananiah, the permission
to rebuild the tL-raple, of which, however, they neither
could nor would make any use, as is circumstantially told in
Bereshith Rabbah, chap. Ixiv. In bis reign there arose in
the city of Bither in'3 the celebrated Bar Kocbeba, i. e. Son
of the Star (Num. xxiv. 17), but later called Bar Kusiba,
i. e. son of falsehood. He alleged himself to be the regent
(messiali ?) of the Jews, and rebelled against the Romans,
' and caused a great slaughter among them, but more espe-
cially among tlie Roman and Greek inhabitants of the
island of Cyprus. Trajan sent bis sister's son, Hadrian,
as general to Palestine, to fight against Bar Kocheba ; he
contended against him for several years, but was not able
to defeat him. Trajan reigned eighteen years.
In 3878 (118) Hadrian ascended the Roman throne.
In the second year of his reign he at length overcame Bar
Kocheba, through means of his general, Julius Severus,
who had been previously stationed in Britain (England).
He captured the uncommonly large and strong city of
Bither, and caused such wasting and destruction in Pales-
tine that they exceeded the misery produced by Titus.
He destroyed 50 strong places and 985 towns and villages,
and there fell 580,000 Jews by the sword, besides the
large numbers who were carried off by famine, fire, and
the pestilence, and not counting those who were dragged
I away into foreign lands, and sold as slaves. Near Hebron,
four human beings were sold for one seah, about a peck of
I barley. [" 0 Lord, behold, and see to whom Thou hast
^H done thus." Echa ii. 20.] Near Bither lay the dead, in a
^b stretch of 18 mills (13i English miles), for years without
^B interment, till the reign of the succeeding emperor ; because
^H Hadrian would not permit the slain to be buried (Yeru-
^H ahalmi Taanith, iv.) This unfortunate war caused the total
^H destruction of Palestine, and is, called, in Sotah ix., § 14,
^H Polemos haracharon pinstn DIdSiS, " the laat war." Ac-
prrOAHLHADRlA
'ANTOKtNO AVG-P >0
PPPONriF AVOVR
.^ E^ 0 I> ^ t>
If ^ ' -
Inscription on a Slonc in the SoniJiwall
'uHi.li.d ly A Hart Phiiiidpfci
*£L
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 337
cording to Yeruehalmi Peah, vii., uofc an olive tree was at
that time to be found in M Palestine, so entirely was
everything destroyed. Under the reign of this tyrant the
following martyrs were executed : Rabbi Akiba, at C®-
sarea ; Rabbi Chaninah, eon of Teradion ; Raljbi Yisliliab,
the scribe (Ilassopher) ; Rabbi Chutzphith, tlie interpreter;
Rabbi Elazar, son of Shamua; and Rabbi Judah, son of
Baba.
After this devastation of the country, Hadrian had Je-
rusalem rebuilt, though less than its former extent, and
called it jElia Capitolina, after his own name ^lianus
Hadrianus, and Jupiter Capitolinus ; whence Jerusalem
is called in Greek books Ailia. ■■ He also placed on the
temple mount the images of Jupiter and Venus HJIJ and
3313, which remained standing 180 years, till destroyed
by the Empress Helena, mother of Constan tine. Even at
this day there is found, on the farthest elid of the southern
city and temple mount wall, a large stone with the fol-
lowing inscription :*
TITO AEL BADEtANO
ANTOKINO AVO PIO
PPPONTir AVOVK
DDDDD
This stone, however, ia placed accidentally upside
down, so that the writing has to be read reversed. It
would appear that formerly there stood on this spot a
monument, to which this stone was affixed ; and as it fell
down at a later period, the Mahomedans found this large
stone when they rebuilt or repaired the city and temple
mount wall, and placed it in its present position in the
clumsy manner we find it, without troubling themselves
about the inscription,
Hadrian also caused a wall to be built around Jeru-
salem, and allowed no Jews to come even within the en-
** TLe letters of this iusoription are each five inches in height.
(
J
i
838 msiOBT OF palestdix.
virons of tiie city (Lamen. v. 2). It was only at a later
period that they were permitted to go to the surrounding
mountains, probably the Mount of Olives, to cast a
mournful, sorrowing look towards the seat of their an-
cient glory. Later yet, they purchased from the Greek
and Boman garrison the permission to enter its precincts
once a year, on the day of its destruction, the 9th of
Ab (August), in order to weep there for their moumfid
fisite, and the fisdl and dispersion of Israel.
In 3900 (140), Antoninus, son-in-law of Hadrian, be-
came emperor. He was a great friend of the Jews, and
lived at ilie time of Rabbi Judah Hannassi, the author of
the Mishna ; he was often for a length of time in the
town of Rami in Galilee (see above, art. Bimon in 2iebu-
lun), and lived on terms of the greatest intimacy with
this Rabbi Judah. According to Yerush. Megillah, i.,
Antoninus privately embraced Judaism. It appears to
me that he caused the unburied dead around Bither to be
interred, as was stated above. He reigned twenty-four
years. ^i •
He was succeeded in 3924 (16*j by his son-in-law
Marcus Aurelius, also called Marcus Antoninus. From
Abodah Zarah, 10 a, it would appear that Antoninus had a
son called Asverus (Severus) ; if this be well-founded, the
prince must have died in his father's time, since the go-
vernment was transferred to the son-in-law.
Commodus, the grandson of Marcus Aurelius, became
Emperor in 3943 (183);* he was a cruel ruler, and an
enemy to the Jews.
Septimius Severus, a severe and harsh governor, be-
ciame emperor in 3955 (195). In the year 3964 (204) he
made an irruption into the East, and after several bloody
battles cflfected important conquests, and penetrated as far
'*' The usual authorities place the death of Marcus three years earlier,
180.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 339
aa the Tigris. In the later years of his life, he became
more just and humane.
Alexander Severus, a good emperor, ascended the
throne in 3985 (225). In 3994 (234) a fierce struggle
sprung up in Palestine between the Jews and Samaritans,
the former under the guidance of a certain Caudius. This
contest lasted so long that Alexander was at length in-
duced to interfere, and restored peace in the country by
the execution of many of both parties.
Decius Troanus commenced his reign in 4014 (254);
his rule lasted but about li years. He is also called Tar-
clianianus, and is, according to my view, the Tarchinua
DirDID of Sukkah, 51 h, who caused many of the Jews
who were settled in Alexandria, in Egypt, to be destroyed.
In one edition this passage reads Alexander of Macedon ;
but this is incorrect, and should be Tarchinus, as it is in
the Yerushalmi and Midrash. (See above, Sela Rimmon,
in Benjamin.)
Diocletian assumed the government in 4049 (289). He
was of moan birth, and a native of Dahnatia ; he was
carried in his infancy to Syria, and was, according to Be-
ro^hith Kabbah, G3, a swineherd near Tiberias, and en-
tered afterwards into the Roman army as private soldier,
and rose at last so high that he was chosen Emperor. He
lived a long time in the East, at Banias, and caused the
BachrChams to be dug. (See chap, ii., first note.) At the
present day, there is still to be seen in Alexandria of
Egypt, the column of Diocletian, 99 feet in height, 28
in circumference, with a shaft of 73 feet in length. It
is also called Pompey's Pillar.
Constantino the Great became Emperor in 4072 (312).
He was the first monarch who embraced Christianity ; the
earlier Emperors persecuted and destroyed the followers
of this religion in every way and manner, till Constantine
and his mother, Helena, professed the same. He caused
I
340 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
churches and monasteries to be built in every direction ;
and also the alleged sepulchre of tlie founder of their reli-
gion was diecovered or rather invented by the keen sight
of the pious Helena, and supplied with a church by Con-
stontine. lie alao embellished B^'zantium, and called it
Constantinople; the Jews name it |'t33NEDB*lp or NtSE'ip
Costo, or Costantui. The groat Roman empire was now
divided into the eastern and western ; the first is known
as the Greco-Romano, the chief seat of the government of
wliich was at Constantinople. Palestine belonged to this,
the eastern division, and many believers in Christianity
now began to settle in the Holy Land.
At that time there lived at Rome a Jew named Joseph,
who went over to Christianity, and acquired thereby much
respect with Constantine, and obtained from him the per-
mission to appear openly as converter of the people, and to
build churches and monasteries. To carry out his object he
travelled into Palestine* as missionary, and commenced to
preach puljlicly in order to persuade the Jews, of whom
there were a great many in Ca3sarea, Tiberias, Nazara, and
Kefr Tanchum, as in fact all these towns were inhabited by
Jews solely, to adopt his religion, and he already made a
commencement to build churches. But the Jews regarded
him not, and would not permit him to construct the like
buildings in the places just named. He reported his want
of success, on account of this opposition of the Jews, to
Constantine, who thereupon imj)osed on them heavy taxes
and fines, and caused a great many of them to be put to
L* "Tby destrojerB uid those wbo puU thee down proceed from thy
own Belf (Isuali zlix. 17), so is the rendcriog in our hpdhc of this Terse;
and this then was the first raiseionury of the doElractiTe kind who came
to Palestine. At present there arc also many here, who are sent hither
from the pious country of Britain. But Conatantine is already dead, and
ni> one molests ua with small or large exactions or coutributions ai
for contumacy. The times do change 1
e sent hitticr
dy dead, and
tioDB as ''M^^^H
HISTORY OF PALESTIKE.
death. Constantine reigned till the year 4102 (342).
See Abn Ezra, end of Daniel [should lje 4097 (337)].
In the year 4098 (338), there was held a great synod
of many Christian clergymen, in oi-der to discuss the char
racter of Jesua of Nazareth ; and all agreed to deny him
all divine attributes, and that he could be declared nothing
more than a prophet.
ConstantiuB commenced hia reign in 4099 (339). At
that time there lived a lai^ Jewish population in Zippori
(Safuri), who showed themselves disobedient to the Em-
peror; in consequence of which, he attacked them, aud
out of revenge for their disobedience, he caused the city
to be demolished ; since that time it is but a miserable
email village.
In 4125 (365), Julian, called the Apostate, assumed the
government. lie was a very great friend of the Jews.
In the second year of his reign, he gave the Nahssi of
Israel, i. e. the chief religious authority, who was at that
time Rabbi Hillel, a great-grandson of E. Judah Hannahssi,
and who lived at Tiberias, the order to rebuild the temple
at Jerusalem. Preparations were actually made to carry
this resolve into effect, when the sudden death of this
good prince frustrated the measure, and the work was
left unaccomplished. Julian was an ardent persecutor of
the Christians, and repealed all the contributions aud taxes
with which Constantine had burdened and punished the
Jews, aud in short abolished all unfavourable laws with
regard to our people.
Valentinian ascended the throne in 4128 (368) ; he was
likewise a humane man, and especially kind to the Jews.
In the twelfth year of his reign, 4140 (380), he commanded
to surround Jerusalem with a new wall, and promised to
make liberal expenditure for this purpose; but he died
in the same year, and this project was also frustrated.
Theodosius I. commenced his reign ui'4140 (380). He
342 mSTOHT OF PALESTINE.
was a persecutor of Arian Christians, but a friend to the
Jews ; and he made it known in all his empire that they
should have everj-where unrestricted freedom in the ex-
ercise of their religion, and that no one should place any
obetaclcB in their way.
Arcadius commenced his reign in 4155 (395); he also
was a wise ruler and a friend to the Jews.
Theodosius II. reigned in 4172* (412) ; he was cruel
and inimical to the Jews. In the eighth year of his reign
(4180 ?) he ordered all the Jews to be driven out of Alex-
andria in Egypt, and Commanded that all the contribu-
tions and donations which were collected for the Nahssi-I"
of Palestine, for the purpose of defraying the general
benevolent objects among the Jews, and the promotion of
the study of the law and similar purposes, should be de-
livered into the imperial treasury.
In 4288 (528), Justinian the Great became Emperor.
He was a very wise and good prince, and a friend to the
Jews. In the year 4316 (556), a bloody contest arose be-
tween the Jews and the Christians residing in Csesarea,
in which very many, nearly all of the latter, were de-
stroyed. Justinian had the matter investigated, and
declared that the Jews had been in the right.
Maurice reigned in 4344 (584) ; he was a good and mild
prince. At this time, the East was visited by uiaiiy and
violent earthquakes ; through which means the building
commenced by Julian on the temple mount, was thrown
down. The benevolent Maurice sent Jewish builders
from Constantinople to Jerusalem to restore it.
Heraclius reigned in 4373 (613). He was engaged in
war with th6 Persian King, Chosroes II. (Kusarai). The
Jews in Tiberias, Nazara, and the inhabitants of the
* Too late by four years. — Translator.
f He neverttieleBs did not reside anj more in Palestine, but
although he bore the name ynn tt'uj " The Prince of the Land.
inBabjic^^H
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 343
mountains of Galilee, were for the Persians. Chosroes
penetrated as far as Jerusalem, which he besieged a long
time, and took it at length in the month of Sivan, 4374
(June, 614), by assault. He caused a terrible destruction
in the same, destroyed all the churches and monasteries,
apid carried the Christian Patriarch away with him as
prisoner of war. About 20,000 Christians lost their lives
in this catastrophe ; those that remained were likewise car-
ried away into captivity by Chosroes. He next conquered
all Palestine, Syria, and Egypt, and carried ojff in every
place ^ large number of Christians as slaves.
Heraclius and his son Constantine now advanced with
a large army and attacked Chosroes furiously ; they pene-
trated as far as Gazza, when the Persians took to flight.
At last, however, peace was concluded. Heraclius again
obtained possession of, Jerusalem, where he would not
allow a single Jew to take up his residence, and endea-
voured, moreover, to persecute and to destroy them every-
where; for his sharp-sighted court astrologer* had pre-
dicted to him, from an inspection of the stars, that his
empire should soon fall into the power of a circumcised
nation, which he interpreted to be the Jews, but he knew
not that the Arabs (Mahomedans) were likewise circum-
* Even to this day this notable personage has great influence in the
courts of the oriental rulers ; and in difficult cases, he is requested to
deduce and read the decision and judgment in the premises from the dear
and innocent stars. So, also, did the astrologer of Serif Pacha, of Da-
mascus, as late as 5600 (1840) read quite clearly and truly in the
stars, that the wicked gluttonous Jews of that place, had butchered and
eaten up the old father Thomas (of which occurrence, I may perhaps say
something hereafter); and this oracular decision was so evident, as the
light of the sun, stars rather, to the just and. tolerant Pacha, that he
undertook the most stringent measures against the Jews, by torturing and
imprisoning them without any better cause than this unreasonable suspi-
cion. (Compare Jud. v. 20.)
344 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
cised. Jerusalem, therefore, remained attached to the
Greek empire till 4397 (G37).
A SHORT REVIEW OF THI8 PERIOD, AND OF THE SITDATIO!* OF SCIENCE
AND OF THE LEARNED DURINO THE 8AHS.
Aftfir the destruction of Jerusalem, the seat of the
Jewish sages, the Sanhedriu, was first in Jahu6 (Jamnia),
but was afterwards transferred to Galilee, to wit, Usha,
Shafram, Beth-Shearim, Zippori, and Tiberias. It was
in the three last-named towns, in the times of Rabbi
Judah Hannahesi, who compiled tlie Mishna, about 3979
(209). He died soon after, and his son, Kabbi Gamliel,
succeeded him in the Nahssi dignity. He wa.'t succeeded
by his son Rabbi Jehudoh Nessiah, and he, in the year
4118 (358), by his son Rabbi Hillel, who was the last
Nahssi in PalestUie. The seat of the later Nessiim
(chiefs), as also that of the most learned men, and of the
sciences and wisdom in general, was the land of Babel, as it
had become by degrees soon after the death of Rabin Judah
Hannahssi. The principal cities where the Jewish col-
leges flourished, were Sora, Nahardea, and likewise Piim-
paditha. Rabbi Yochonan, a scholar of Rabbi Judah Han-
nalissi, compiled the Talmud Yerushalmi (Jerusalem Tal-
mud) about the year 4030 (279). Eab Aahi, however,
compiled the Talmud Babli (the Babylonian Talmud) in
Babel, about the year 4129 (367) ; but the work was not
closed till the year 4260 (400).
We know but little of the learned men of Palestine
after the decease of Rabbi Hillel. But in the year 4280
(420) there was a slight difllerence between the Nahssi
and the NmSj C**! Resh Gelutlia (chief of the captivity),
who was next in rank after the Nahssi, for which reason
he left Babel and went to Palestine, where he was re-
ceived as chief by the learned men of that country.
Since, as I have related, the Emperor Maurice sent, in
HISTORY OF PALESTINE, 345
the year 4344 (584), Jews from Constantinople to Jeru-
salem to reconstruct the buildings on the temple mounts
which had been thrown down by the earthquake, it would
appear that at that time there were but few Jews in Jeru-
salem and vicinity, or else there would have been no ne-
cessity to send others thither from so great a distance.
The situation of our people during this period, was not
continually the same, but always in accordance with the dis-
position of the reigning sovereign ; since, as already related,
some of them were eminently friendly, whilst others were
equally bitterly inimical to the Jews, and they, accord-
ingly, were either favoured or persecuted, as the whim of
the moment dictated.
PERIOD n.
FROM THE ACCESSION OF THE MAHOMEDANS TO THAT OF THE EUROPEANS.
In the year 4374* (614) there lived in Medina, in
Arabia, Mahomed ibn Abdallah, descended from Keder,
son of Ishmael (Gen. xxv. 13), who had taken possession
of Arabia and the neighbouring countries. Mahomed had
two secret counsellors, who assisted him in the construc-
tion of his new system of doctrines and belief; these were
Aliman Mam Ali, of Jewish descent, and Turchman, a
Christian ; hence it resulted that the Koran contains many
rules bearing analogy to Jewish ideas, for they were de-
rived from Mam Ali.
Mahomed had ^n astrologer at his court called Buche-
ran, who was a very great enemy of the Jews, and urged
* It is not easy to give the precise year of the Chadjra (the flight of
Mahomed), since all authorities are not agreed in this respect. In gene-
ral, the year of the text is assumed. In a Hebrew work, out of which
I have drawn largely, the year 4384 (624) is given. The Maho'medans
reckon this year 5605 (1845) as the 1261st of the Chadjra. If we now
calculate their years in general at 355 days, as they have no leap year, we
shall have only about 1226 solar years, which would give us the year
4379 (619 of the Christian Era) t^ the year of the Chadjra.
346 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
the prophet constantly to persecute anJ exterminflte them
entirely, eo that Mahomed at length listened to the pro-
position, since he had without this already a hatred
towards them, Ijecause they had not aided liim in his
campaigiis accordmg to his expectation ; wherefore the
whole Jewish population under his rule, ran great danger
of being entirely cut off. Rabbi Shallum, son of the then
Resh Gelutha, in Babel, perceiving this dreadful pi-edica-
ment, went to Mahomed, taid offering him Mb submission,
friendship, and services, endeavoured U> enter with him
into a friendly compact. Mahomed accepted his propo-
sition with pleasure, conceived a great affection for him,
and took his daughter, a handsome young girl, for wife ;
lie made him also a general in his array, and gave him
the name of Abu Bachr al Chaliva al Zadik, literally : The
father of the maiden, the descendant of the righteous ;
this means, that of all his wives, who were either widows
or divorced women, this one was the only one who had
never been married before, and then she was the grand-
daughter of the celebrated chief of the captivity^ ; there-
fore, the descendant of the righteous. This occurrence
induced Mahomed to give up his terrible intention to de-
stroy the Jews in his country, and thus did Rabbi Shal-
lum save his people.
Abu Bachr and Aliman now resolved among themselves
to remove the dangerous enemy of the Jews, Bucheran.
One evening Mahomed, Bucheran, Aliman, and Abu
Bachr, were drinking together; the latter two soon saw that
Mahomed and the astrologer were strongly intoxicated, and
lay stretched out in a deep and profound sleep. Abu Bachr
thereupon drew the sword of Mahomed from its scabbard,
cut off therewith Bucharan's head, and put the bloody
sword back into its receptacle, and both then lay them-
selves down quietly near Mahomed to sleep. When Ma-
homed awoke and saw his friend lying decapitated near
HISTORY OP PALEasrmi. 347
him, he cried out in a fury: "This terrible deed has
been done by one of us three in our drunkenness !" Abu
Bachr thereupon said quite unconcernedly: "Let each
one draw his sword, and he whose weapon is stained with
blood, must needs be the murderer !" They all drew their
swords, and that of Mahomed was completely dyed with
fresh blood, which proved thus clearly to his satisfaction
that he had murdered his friend. He was greatly grieved
at this discovery ; cursed and condemned the wine which
was the cause of this murder, and swore that he never
would drink any more, and that also no one should do so
who wishes to enter heaven. This is the cause why wine
is prohibited to the Mahomedans.
At a later period, Mahomed learned* the whole transao-
tion, and that his father-in-law wai/ the perpetrator of the
bloody deed ; wherefore, he lost his favour, and he would
not permit him to come before him. Abu Bachr went
thereupon and conquered sixty places, which had not yet
submitted to Mahomed, and presented them to him,
through which means he became again reconciled to him,
was received in favour, and remained thereafter at court.
Mahomed urged his conquests to the north and west ;
made war against Heraclius and his son Constantine,
captured the country around Antiochia, Armenia, a part
of Asia Minor (Anatolia), and Palestine. Jerusalem,
however, continued in possession of the Greeks. Maho-
med reigned 11 years, and died in 4385 (625) ; he was
succeeded by his father-in-law, Abu Bachr, but he sur-
vived him but two years, when he also died!
In 4387 (627), another father-in-law, Omar ibn Kataf,
ascended the throne. In the tenth year of his reign
(4397) he appeared before Jerusalem with a large army.
He besieged it, and after producing great distress thereby
in the city, it surrendered to his arms. He then made a
treaty with the Greek inhabitants of the city, that they
848 DISTORT or PALESTINB.
ehould pay him a ransom for their Lives, and send an aimual
tribute. He comnianded to rebuild the temple, and ap-
propriated several pieces of ground, the proceeds of which
were destined to defray the expenses and keep it in re-
pair, which is continued to be done to tliia day. He built,
accordingly, the great Mosque al Sachara, of which I have
spoken above. He also conquered the whole country
around Damascus and Ispahan, which is a part of Persia.
Egypt was taken by his general Omar ibu Alcaz, as also
the city of Alexandria, where he burnt the celebrated
library, through which learned posterity sufiered an irre-
parable loss. This conquest of Egypt put an end to the
government of the Mameluks, and it came under the
rule of the Califs, and so it remained till the country was
conquered by the Tartars in 4502 (742). In 4400 (640),
Omar biult the present al Mazr and called it Al Kairo,
which means, " care, pains, sorrow ;" since this building
cost him much trouble, care, and labour. In the town of
Fastat, the ancient Zoar (for which see the Appendix),
he prohibited and prevented a terrible ancient custom,
which was prevalent among the Greeks of that place.
They used, on the day when the Nile begins to rise, to
take a handsome young woman, to dress her in the moat
costly and brilliant attire, to lead her to the river under
accompaniment of music and dancmg, and then to throw
her into the water ; since, according to their opinion, the
Nile would, in reward for this beautiful sacrifice, rise higher
and higher, and scatter its rich blessings over the land.
Omar reigned 15 years.
In the year 4402 (642), Osman (or Othman) ibn Afan
assumed the government. He waa a son-in-law of Ma-
homed. In the year 4406 (646), he took the island of
Rhodes, and in 4413 (G53) the island of Cyprus, from the
Greeks.
In 4413 (653), the Calif Ali ibn Abu Talbih, also a son-
msiORT OF PALEsmnB. 349
in-law of Mahomed, who had slain his predecessor Osman,
succeeded to the throne. The Persians, and many other
Mahomedans, regard this All also as a prophet, equal to
Mahomed. Even at the present day there are two sects
of Mahomedans ; one is composed of those who only believe
in and acknowledge Mahomed as a prophet, and the other
of those who ascribe the same honour to Ali. These two
sects always are inimical towards, and persecute each other.
In Syria and on the Lebanon there are likewise several
Mahomedans who belong to the sect of Ali. — Under him
the Mahomedans conquered the whole of Anatolia, and
penetrated as far as Africa and Spain. He was succeeded,
in 4419 (659), by his son, Calif Chazan ibn AU.
Calif Maevia ibn Sefian began his reign in 4434 (674).
Under him there were constant wars and contests among
the great men of the state, concerning the califate, and it
was always doubtful whether he should be able to main-
tain himself on the tWe or not.
In 4435, Calif Abd al Maleki assumed the government.
He made a treaty with the Greek . Emperor of Constanti-
nople, Justinian II. He built -the city of Ramla, and
several other towns in that neighbourhood. The district
of Abu Gosh (see above, Kirjath-Jearim)>, is to this day
called Belad Beni Amaleki, perhaps in allusion to this
Calif. In his time, in 4459 (699), there ruled in Irak and
Babel yet another Calif, Chadjadj ibn Jusif Abd al Maleki
was succeeded in 4467 (707) by his son, Calif Walid I.,
ibn Abd al Maleki.
In 4502 (742), the country was invaded by innumerable
hordes of Tartars, from the vicinity of the Caspian Sea.
They were called Turkemans ; hence the name of Turks.
These conquered the whole of Syria, Cappadocia, and
Palestine, and caused everywhere terrible, devastations.
The Arab Califs made war against thehi, and drove them
out of the country; they, however, cam^ back a third
I
350 HISTORY OF P.VLESTINE.
time, as I eball relate hereafter, till at length the Arftba
and Turks became united, by the latter assuming the
Koran and the Mahomedan religion, and formed, as at
this day, but one nation, only that the former are called
Arabs or lelimaelites, and constitute the greater portion
of the inhabitants of Palestine ; whilst of the others, called
Turks, but few are in our country, whereas in Turkey,
in Europe, the population is mostly composed of them.
In 4523 (763), there reigned the Calif Al Mansur, who
built Bagdad, the modern Babylon.
In 454G (786), the Calif Harun ar Rashid (i. e. the just)
became ruler, and reigned till 45G9 (S09). He completed
the building of the city of Bagdad, commenced by Al
Mansur. In 4557 (797) there arose a terrible war be-
tween the Saracens and the Arabic tribes in Palestine,
through which means Gazza, Ashkelon, Sarifea pa'"iV?
and Beth-Oubrin were entirely destroyed.
Li 4572 (812), the Mahomedans attacked and slew the
ecclesiastical chiefs of the Christians in Jerusalem.
In the year 4573 (813), ruled Calif Ahnamans ibn Hi
until the year 4603 (843).
In 4G28 (868), there reigned Sultan Ibn Achmad ibn
Tulun over Egypt. In that year the Tartaric hordes made
another irruption, and conquered Palestine and Egypt.
Sultan Ibn Achmad had ccwistant wars with them : he
r«igned tiU 4644 (884).
In 4729 (969), there reigned the Calif Maez, of the
Fatimite family. This name was borne by the Califs of
KairuAn, a country to the west of Egypt, in the neighbour-
hood where Carthage formerly stood (see Appendix) . He
conquered Egypt, Palestine, and Syria, and had his seat
in Cairo (Al Mazr).
Calif Al Chakim, the third of the Patimite family,
came sovereign in the year 4756 (996). He was a grel
enemy to the Christians, and persecuted them everywhere.
HISiaftT OF PALESflNE. 351
In the year 4776 (1016), he advanced with a large army
against Jerusalem, and drove away the Tartars, who yet
occupied the same. He also destroyed totally the church
which Constantine had built over the so-called place of
Jesus's sepulchre. His reign extended till 4781 (1021).
The pilgrims who came from the west (Europe) to
Palestine, and- beheld these persecutions, painted them in
strong and glaring colours on their return to their native
countries, and moreover calumniated the Jews, as though
these had contributed much to produce the enmity and
persecution of the Christians on the part of Al Chakim.
These and still other falsehoods and calumnies increased
the hatred and the persecution towards the Jews in Euro-
pean countries ; and when at a later period the pioua cru-
saders from the west went eastward, to snatch the Holy
Land from the power of the Mahomedans, they found
ample opportunity to execute a pious and holy vengeance
on these poor Israelites, as I shall relate somewhat more
circiunstantially hereafter.
In 4781 (1021), his son Calif Dahir ibn Chakim be-
came sovereign. He was a friend to the Christians, and
permitted them to rebuild their destroyed church.
In 4800 (1040), the Tartaric hordes made a third irrup-
tion under their leader Seldjuk, who was of the tribe
Hildokiao. This chief was uncommonly successful in his
conquests : he made war against the Egyptian Calif, and
conquered Syria, and Jerusalem with its environs. He
bitterly persecuted the Christians in the Holy City, and
they had to endure terrible exactions, and were compelled
to submit entirely to his arbitrary will.
In 4859 (1099), the Arabs under the Egyptian Calif
again acquired Jerusalem and the surrounding country,
and drove the Tartars away from there, and thought
themselves secure in possession of the city, when sud-
denly a new enemy came over them, with whom they
352
HISTORY OF PALESTIKB.
had to wage a long and bloody strife. This enemy was
the Europeans of the West, who in that very year en-
tered the land of Palestine and conquered it.
I
I
A SHORT REVIEW OF THIS PERIOD.
There exist but few documents concerning the situa-
tion of the Jewish literati and lit<;rature in Palestine of
this period. But at the time of Mahomed, the most dis-
tinguished and learned person amongst the Jews, Rabbi
Yizchak Ha-GaOn, resided in Babylon. The title of
Nahssi had at that time been given up for that of Gadn.
In 4521 (761), there arose a serious contest in Babylon
between the Resh Gelutha, and the celebrated Rab Acha,
of Shabech^, the author of the SheeltliotU mnSuB', through
which cause tlie latter waa not chosen as Gaon, wherefore
he quitted Babylon and repaired to Palestine, where he
ended his days.
In 4543 (783), there lived in Beth-Zur, a town not far
from Hebron, a man by the name of 'Anan TJJ?, a scholar
of the then Gaon, Rabbi Yehudai, of Babylon. He had
observed in his scholar that he had neither affection for,
nor faith in our tradition as an exposition of the written
law ; wherefore he ('Anan) could not be chosen either as
Resh Gelutha or Gaiin. He returned, therefore, to hig
native country, Palestine, and formed a new sect, the
leader of which he became, by openly preaching against
our system of tradition. The sect of the Sadducees, who
only adopted the written law and rejected the tradition,
had gradually fallen entirely into decay after the destruc-
tion of the temple and Jerusalem, and had become nearly
dissolved. But the appearance of 'Anan gave them new
life, and they soon increased and spread extensively in
Palestine, Egy]rt, and North Africa. In Palestine, they
had yet another learned chief, Sheich Abu al Ferag, who
wrote a work, bearing his own name, concerning the prin-
HI8I0RT OF PALESTmS. 353
ciples of his sect, and which contains much that is absurd
and blasphemous. He is the same Abu al Ferag who is
frequently mentioned in the Opinions of Maimonides
D"DDin n^^^tt^rS' Anan had a wife who was called Al
Mealma, i. e. the learned, the instructress, who was ac-
knowledged chief of his sect after the death of her hus-
band, and was consulted in all cases of doubt; and
as everything was decided according to her opinion and
practice, it came to be customary to ask among the sect,
" How did Al Mealma on that occasion ? or what was her
practice in that case ?" and every one looked up to her
for guidance. When, at a later period, Rabbi Joseph Ben
Ali became Nahssi in Africa, he used every ejBTort to sup-
press this sect in all directions, — so that it was nearly dis-
solved, and but few vestiges are found thereof at the pre-
sent time ; since all that is left are the few Caraites D*N*1p,
who only acknowledge the written law, are partly de-
scended from the ancient Sadducees, and are found in
several places in Asia and Egypt. We find mentioned in
Abn Ezra's Commentary on the Pentateuch, several ridi-
culous expositions of many passages of Holy Writ ascribed
to a certain Anai;i ; it would, therefore, appear that he
also had composed a commentary on the books of Moses.
In general the situation of the Jews, under the rule of
the Mahomedans, was quite favourable, and considerably
better than under the Greeks, since the former are natu-
rally more favourably inclined to Judaism; — ^so that
scarcely any persecution took place in this whole pjBriod.
Only when the Calif Omar ibn Kataf banished, in the
year 4398 (638), the Christians from Tiberias, the same
fate was soon, meted out to the Jews^ and they also had
to quit this place.
28
354 HISTOBT OF PALESTINB.
FEOH THE BKION OP THE EL-BOPEAKB TO SPLTAN BKUMAH.*
When the inhabitants of Europe learned, in 4856
(1096), how great the oppression and persecution were
which their coreligionists had to endure in the Iloly Land
at the hands of the Mahomedans, they resolved to make
a campaign thither by their united forces, in order to
snatch the Holy Land from the power of the infidels. Li
consequence of this resolve there assembled an immenae
number of warlike pilgrims from Germany, France, Spain,
Britain, and Italy, composing a moss of aU sorts of men,
who all hastened to the East in a pious and holy rage, —
others, indeed, for the mere love of plunder, — to take part
in the holy war ; wherein, therefore, it was quite natural
that the pious and holy priests should play a principal
part. This, however, was a terrible and tragical period
for all the Jews residing in the above-named countries ;
since these pious pilgrims had, at present, the best oppor-
tunity to give full vent to their hatred and fury against
our poor and helpless people, and to enrich themselves at
the same time with their wealth and possessions.
Especially in Germany an innumerable host of Jews,
entire congregations, both little and great, both old and
young, were butchered in cold blood, and their earthly
possessions confiscated by the saints. Only those who
would consent to join Christianity, the only saving church,
could remain unmolested ; but few, indeed, availed them-
* I would merely remark, that I have taken the events of this period,
for tie most part, from an Eastern Hebrew work; should it, therefore,
be foaud that there are some differences respecting the names and ctro-
noiogy, when compared with European histories, I would, neverthclesB,
give the preference to this work, which was eomposed on the spot where
the events occurred, and appears on the whole to give on authentic and
true ocoount.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 355
selves of this dishonourable means of saving their lives !
These are the persecutions of 4856, called among us
V'Jfiri rvnU ; but it is not my province to speak of theii
more circumstantially. A complete account of these
dreadful events is found in the book of Chronicles of
Babbi Joseph, the priest, a native of Italy, known as
pan .^Dv '^S D^o^n nai.
The number of these warlike pilgrims was about 600,000
men ; they took their journey by seven different routes
(Deut. xxviii. 25). They were led by Godfrey of Lor-
raine, and many distinguished princes. They pursued
their difficult and dangerous route through Constantino-
ple, Anatolia, Antiochia, Trablus, Beirut, Zidon, Zur, and
Akko. Their near approach produced a panic and fright-
ful terror among the inhabitants of Jerusalem. The
Egyptian Calif, who had but recently only taken it from
the Tartars, commanded to place the city in a state of
defence, to strengthen the wall of the city, and to supply
it with brave troops, and with everything requisite,
with arms no less than with an ample store of provisions.
In 4859 (1099), on the 7th of June (Tamuz), the pil-
grims came at length before Jerusalem by way of Bamla.
The large number of 600,000 had already melted down to
40,000, so that but 1 out of every 15 had remained alive
and come before Jerusalem ; the remainder had been car-
ried off on the long journey by the plague and other
diseases, hunger, want, and the sword of the enemy.
But even among the 40,000 that remained, there were
but 20,000 warriors who fought on foot, and 500 horse-
men; whereas in Jerusalem there was a garrison of
40,000 brave soldiers. The city was now formally put in
a state of siege, and the Mahomedans defended them-
selves bravely ; but still Jerusalem was taken by assault
on the 11th (19th?) of July 3N ; Godfrey and his brother
Eustace (lyostakea?) were the first to scale the wall, and
356 HISTORY OF paij:stine.
descending therefrom into the city, forced the gates, when
the whole army of tlie pilgriuifi ]K)ured in, and caused a
terrihle massacre, so that Arab historians write that the
horses waded up to their bellies in human blood ; and
scarcely any one was spared and saved alive. Godfrey
was thereupon acknowledged and crowned by the pilgrims
as king of Jerusalem. They next gradually conquered all
Palestine and Syria ; but they had to carry on every-
where constant battles with the Calife of Egypt, in which
they (the Cruswlera) were nearly always victorious. In a
battle between Godfrey and the Calif, which was fought
in tlte vicinity of Ashkelon, it is said that 100,000 men of
the Egyptian army were left dead on the field. The pil-
grims made also some conquests on the east side of
Jordan.
They had thus posseaaion of nearly the whole country;
they built cities, towns, villages, monuments, churches,
and monasteries, and gave them arbitrarily biblical
names, through which means, if one should regard these
names as correct and authentic, the geography of Pales-
tme would become entirely obscure and confupcd. Many
of these names are even retained in the journal of the
travels of the Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela. The great
bridge over the Jordan, which is at present called Djisr
ahn6 Jacob, was built by the Crusaders in the reign
of Baldwin IV. The city wall of Jerusalem also was
newly repaired by them, or rather nearly rebuilt; and
they remained 88 years in complete possession of the land,
as I shall relate farther.
When the people in Europe learned the conquest of
Palestine, all were rejoiced, and every one ivished to be
himself able to participate in such holy expeditions,
which caused five more to be undertaken.
In 4907 (1147), the second great expedition to Pales-
raSTORY OF PALESTINE. 357
tine took place, led by the Emperor Conrad III. of Ger-
many, and Louis VII. of France.
In 4930 (1170), there reigned in Egypt King Saladdin
(Salheddin Yuseph ben Ayoub), who united Palestine with
his own government, and severed it from the Califate, and
founded a separate kingdom, independent of that of the
Califs, that of the Ayoubites, which lasted till 5010 (1250),
when the kingdom of the Mamelukes commenced.
Saladdin, however, marched, in 4947 (1187), with a
large army to Palestine, and made war against the then
Christian King Guy (Guido) , of Lusignan. A great battle
was fought not far from the village of Chittin, near the
mountain called Kurn Chittin, in Lower Galilee (for
which see Chapter II) ; the Christians were defeated with
a terrible, slaughter, and King Guido was taken prisoner.
Saladdin pushed on to Jerusalem, which he besieged,
and soon began to batter and throw down its walls.
The besieged, seeing that they had no prospect of a
successful resistance, surrendered to him, paid him a
contribution, and they were permitted to march out un-
molested; whereupon many left Jerusalem with their
families. Saladdin now put a garrison in the same,
caused all steeples and bells to be destroyed, and the
churches and monasteries, to spite the Christians, were
converted into horse stables for his army ; but he paid aH
possible respect and reverence to the buildings erected on
the temple mount, for instance the Mosque Al Sachra,
and other structures intended for the purpose of devotion.
All the cities and towns of Palestine surrendered to him ;
so that he put an end to the Christian kingdom of Jeru-
salem.
The following are the kings who ruled in Palestine
during the Christian period :
1, Godfrey of Boulogne (Bouillon), or of Lorraine ; after
his death there reigned, 2, his brother, Baldwin I. ; after
I
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L
358 HISTORY OF I-AUESTINE.
him, 3, Baldwin, called di Burgo ; after him, 4, his son-in-law
Fulgo ; after him, 5, his son Baldwin III. ; after him, 6, his
son Almeric ; aft«r him, 7> his son Baldwin IV., who was
afterwards afflicted with a terrible leprosy; so that even
in his lifetime the government devolved, 8, on his nephew,
his sister'sson, Baldwin v., but who was yetamere youth;
after the death of both these, tHe government came into
the hands of, 9, Guy of Lusignan; his queen waa called
Sybilla ; she was a daughter of King Almeric, and was
also tlie mother of Baldwin V. ; Guy was defeated, as
related above, by Saladdin, ajid thus lost his kingdom.
The leaders of the Christian armies elected, nevertheless,
after this from among themselves, as king, 10, Henry of
Campania, who, however, soon afterwards fell out
window in Ptolemais (Akko), and thus died.
Although the reign of the Europeans was thus dissolve
in Palestine, several crusades were nevertheless under-
taken in Europe, in the hope of recovering tlie lost dominion
over the Holy Land, which was not accomplished, though
several great victories were obtained here and there over
the Mahomedaus, and several towns were captured. But
all this availed nothing to recover that power which they
had formerly possessed.
In the year 4949 (1189), the third expedition waa un-
dertaken ; the leaders in, this were Frederick 1. (Barba-
rossa). Emperor of Germany; Philip Augustus, of France ;
and Richard I. (Cceur de Lioil), of Ikigland. They con-
quered Armenia and Syria ; but the Emperor Frederick
was drowned whilst bathing, and was buried in Antiochia.
The Emperor Henry also undertook, in the mean time, an
expedition with a very large army ; but he lost his courage
and his love for tlic Orient, and returned home without
reaching Palestine. The other pilgrims moved on towards
Akko (Acre), and besieged it. Saladdin came with an
immense multitude of men, and attacked the Christians :
ry^^
m
ilve^^^
HISTORY OP PALESTINE. 359
but the siege and the war lasted a long time ; victory,
however, at length declared In favour of the pilgrims, and
they conquered Akko and other cities, though they could
not long maintain possession of themj as they were always
again taken away from them ; but during all this time
Jerusalem remained in the hands of the Mahomedans.
In 4962 (1202), on the 30th of May (Sivau), there was a
terrible earthquake, which has scarcely ever been equalled
in the East ; it lasted, without interruption, nearly three
days, and destroyed the greater portion of Akko, the
residence of the Christian kings, as also, almost totally,
the towns of Tyre, Arkos (*p"lj?), Trablus (Tripoli); be-
sides which destruction, a large number of human beings
perished. This calamity was followed afterwards by an
equally terrible famine ; after this the laud was visited
by a fearful plague ; by reason of all which the Chris-
tians could not sustain themselves in the country as an
independent kingdom. (Jud. v, 20.)
In 4977 (1217), the fourth expedition was undertaken,
not as before, by land, through Asia Minor, but by sea,
under the guidance of Andrew II., King of Hungary,
In 4979 (1219), there reigned in the Holy Land, Melech
al Madem, whose seat was at Damascus. He caused the
city wall of Jerusalem to be demolished, sparing only the
KaUai (fort), in order to afford to the Christians in future
no central stronghold in Palestine.
In 4983 (1223), the fifth expedition, at the head of which
was the Emperor Frederick 11., was undertaken. Fre-
derick took Palestine from Saladdin, and his son Knrdius,
who resided in Jerusalem, hod to seek safety in flight.
The Emperor having thus conquered Jerusalem and several
other towns, replaced King John, who had been chosen
king after the death of Henry of Campania, and who had
been driven irom Jerusalem by the Mahomedans, into his
royal dignity. King John gave thereupon his daughter
d
360 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
Julia to Frederic forwife, and presented him in perpetuity
with the kingdom of Jerusalem. The EmpiTor was ac-
cordingly crowned in the Holy City as King of Jerusalem;
and it is upon this ground that all the Roman, or ra.ther
German emperors, have, since Frederick's time, borne the
name of King of Jerusalem, and the House of Hapsbui^
bear it even now, though only as Emperors of Austria. It
is well enough understood that this empty title confers
no power whatever.
In 4999 (1239), the barons and knighta then in Jeru-
salem commenced to restore and rebuild the destroyed
city wall, and to repair in particular the fort Kallai. But
the Amir Da-ud of Al Kerak, surprised the city, captured
it, and slew a great many Christians ; he also caused EtU
that had been built to lie again demolished.
In 5003 (1243), the Pisans (Italians), again undertook
to restore the fort; but in the year following, 5004, the
hordes of Karismiana (Turks and Tartars), made a fourth
irruption into Palestine under their king, Kasiumi ; they
took Jerusalem, caused a terrible slaughter, among its in-
habitants, and destroyed all that had been lately built up,
together with the sepulchral church.
In 5008 (1248), the sixth and last crusade was under-
taken ; at its head was Louis of France. He took Egypt
on hia route, in order to defeat first its king. He found
there that a conspiracy had broken out against the family
of Saladdin, who had lost the government, which hod de-
volved on the Mamelukes, who then began to rule, as I
shall narrate somewhat moi-e in detail hereafter.
In 5025 (1265), the Tartaric hordes made their fifth and
last irruption, and killed a great many persons in Jeru-
salem.
In 5040 (1280), there ruled in Palestine the Sultan
Self Eddin, the Calif of Egypt.
In 5046 (1286), or rather, aa appears to me more cor-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 361
rectly, in 5051 (1291), there ruled here the Sultan Mah-
mud ibn Kialian, who caused several buildings to be
erected in Jerusalem, and had constructed the northern
pool without the city, as stated above when describing the
pools, as appears from the inscription on the same,
" SULTAN MAHMUD IBN KIALIAN SANE 693 f and as I
have already noticed that the Chadjra commenced with
4479, and as. 693 Mahomedan are only about 672 years,
the date of the construction of the pool must be 5051
(1291).
In 5051, Asa Sultan Mameluki, King of Egypt, appeared
with a large force before Akko and Trablus, and captured
both, and killed a fireat many Christians, and destroyed
has remained ever since, to our own times, in possession
of the Mahomedans.
The proper duration of the Christian kingdom in Pales-
tine was 88 years, as I have stated already; but their
entire expulsion did not take place till 104 years later :
consequently, the whole Christian penod lasted 192
years.
Palestine was thus under the government of the Mame-
lukes, and continued so for 227 years, till it was conquered
by the Ottomans.
L consider it proper to say something concerning the
origin and descent of the latter. In the year 4970 (1210),
when the terrible Gengis Khan, the king of the Tartars,
conquered nearly the whole of Asia, and overcame all- the
kini aiid prinL of that portion of the world, devas-
tated their lands, and destroyed their cities, many of
these princes saved themselves by flight, and settled in
distant, uncultivated, and unpeopled districts, in steppes
and deserts, in order to be safe against the all-destrojdng
tyrant, Gengis Elian. Among these fugitives was a cer-
I
362 HISTORY OP PALESTINE.
tain prince, the grandfather of the later named Osman or
Ottman, whose descent some trace directly to Ishmael,
son of Abraham, others to Japheth, eon of Noah.
In the year 5060 (1300), when the Tartaric hordes, in
one of their fearful inroads, robbing and murdering, caused
destruction in every direction, Eladin, prince of Guna, (?)
in Eastern Asia, fled before them, and left his country in
the hands of a brave warrior who sojourned there, by
name of Ottman or Osnian, who was a grandson of the
prince who had fled Iwifore Glengis Khan. The people of
Guna elected ftsman as their cliief and king, in order to
take the field against the marauding hordes. He was so
fortunate in his campaigns that he overcame them; after
which he gradually extended his conquests, penetrated to
the West, defeated the Greeks, and conquered all Ana-
tolia (Asia Minor). lie took up his seat at Brusa, a city
in the present province of Kodavenkiar, not far from
Mount Olympus, in Asia Minor. His successors, the
Ottoman rulers, constantly increased their dominions by
conquest, till they acquired an immense extent, as I shall
tell hereafter. This chief, then, is the ancestor of the
celebrated im]K?rial house which rules to this day in Con-
stantinople, and hence the names of Ottoman Empire and
Ottoman Emperors.
In 5162 (1402). Tamerlane (Timour Lenk), king of
Samarkand (Samrchaud), in Mongolia, conquered all
Persia and Central Asia, and penetrated to the west as
far as Anatolia, which he conquered, together with the
whole of Syria and Palestine, and he destroyed and devas-
tated everything wherever he appeared. Among others,
the strong and celebrated city of Baal-bek, in Coeleayria,
was destroyed by him, and it continues to this day in
ruins. Bajazet (Biastus), of the family of the Ottomans,
king of Anatolia, made war against him ; but Timour de-
feated him, and, having made him . prisoner, he enclosed
mSTOBY OF PALESTINE. 363
him in an iron cage, and carried him about with him
wherever he went, and he was compelled to eat mider
Timour's table what was thrown down to him. It was
probably an old heathenish custom to treat conquered
chiefs after this fashion. (See Judges i. 7.) After Timour's
death, Mahmed Ismaeli I., the grandson of Bajazet, con-
quered all the countries and territories once possessed by
Timour. Mahmed was a distinguished warrior, and very
fortunate in his battles and conquests, by which he gave
his dominions an immianse extent, so that in 5175 (1415)
he penetrated even as far as Salzburg in Tyrol. Palestine
also reverted to the dominion of the Mameluke kings of
Egypt.
In 5213 (1453), Sultan Mahmed IL, the ninth in
descent from Ottman, appeared before Constantinople
with an immense anny, and captured it by storm on the
29th of May, after a siege of fifty-four days. He caused
a terrible slaughter among the Greeks, the inhabitants of
the city, and made an end of the Greek part of the Roman
Empire, which had been maintained there 1121 years,
namely, from 4092 (332), when Constantine the Great
rebuilt the city of Byzantium, and took up. his residence
there. Sultan Mahmed himself made Constantinople the
capital of the Ottoman empire, and it has continued to be
so to our own days. He also conquered nearly all Western
Asia, and extended his power over a great portion of
Europe, so that he conquered twelve kingdoms and more
than a hundred large and fortified cities ; and he was very
fortunate in his wars. He attacked also the isle of Rhodes ;
but here his luck forsook him, and he was beaten back by
the Greek inhabitants of that island, and he was not able
to take it. Palestine also remained attached to the king-
dom of the Mamelukes.
In 5278 (1518), Sultan Selim I., a grandson of Mahmed
II., consequently the eleventh in descent from Ottman^
364
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
made war against Sultan Kampison, king of Egypt. Near
Aleppo, in Syria, a battle was at length fought between
them. Kampison had a large army of Arabs and Mame-
lukes; but Selim conquered through means of his janis-
saries, and the Arabs and Mamelukes were put to flight,
and Sultan Kampison, who was in his seventy-sixth year,
and in the sixteenth of his reign, fell in this battle, the
first and the last which he had ever fought. Palestine
came, therefore, imder the dominion of the Ottomans,
and it has continued so ever since. Selim concluded a
treaty of peace with the inhabitants of Trabius, Zidon,
Beirut, Akko, and Damascus. He then moved on to
Jerusalem, and ascended the Temple Mount, where he
exhibited the reverence diie to the sacred spot. Thence he
took up his route to Egypt, and made war against Sultan
Tumubcra Diadoro, whom the Mamelukes had appointed
as their king after Kampison's death, and defeated him,
and had him hanged on a gallows. He also took the whole
country of Egypt, and thus made an end of the Mameluke
domination. Egypt came thus under the power of the
Ottoman, aa it has remained till the latest time, as I shall
tell at the conclusion of this narrative. Selim conquered
yet other kingdoms and provinces, and penetrated, In
5279 (1519), as far as Vienna, where, however, he met
with a severe defeat. He died in 5280 (1520), and his
son Seliman ascended the throne.
A SHOET REVIEW 0
The following will prove that even at this early period
German Jews must have Hved in Jerusalem. The noble
family of Dalberg in Worms is one of very ancient date,
and has been in existence probably from eight to nine
hundred years. It so happened that a son of this family
had a great inclination to travel, in order to see the world
and learn various languages, especially the Arabic; where-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 366
fore he resolved to visit the East, and came at length to
Jerusalem. But, by reason of the long journey, the money
with which he had provided himself became exhausted,
and he was in the greatest distress,- since he became sick,
had neither money nor acquaintance, and knew not the
language of the country, in order to make himself under-
stood. He was lying despairing, dangerously sick and
emaciated, in the open street of the city ; but none of the
passers-by took notice of him, either because they could
not or would not understand him ; till luckily a Jew came
along, who had a knowledge of his language, and heard
him say, " If people only knew who I am, and the charac-
ter of my family and of my father, they would surely
have compassion on me, for my father is able to repay
manifold any kindness shown to me." The Jew, who
was a Gerihan, bad him immediately brought to his
house, procured him medical assistance and good nursing,
treated him as became his high station, and took such ex-
cellent care of him that he speedily recovered. He kept
him also a long time after that in his house, and had him
thoroughly instructed in the Arabic language. The young
cavalier now reported to^ his father the whole occurrence,
how a Jew had saved him almost from death, aqd become
his benefactor, and that he had to thank him for his life
and existence. The father was greatly .rejoiced to hear
from him, and sent out a large sum of money to enable
him to return, and showed himself in an eminent degree
grateful, to the benefactor of his son, who thereupon re-
turned happily to his native land. Soon after the father
died, and left him great wealth. He wrote down this
event in the family annals, and left a command to all his
descendants for ever to do the Jews kindness, and made
it a custom in Worms, that at each marriage pr funeral
procession among the Jews^ two servants of the noble
house of Dalberg should march before the same with silver-
I
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366 msTORT OF Palestine.
-■■•>-
headed staffs in their hands, as a mark of honour and re-
epect. This custom was observed several centuries in
Worms.
When Jerusalem was taken by etorm in 4S59 (1099),
by the pilgrims, there was among the generals one of the
house of Dalberg, and he recollected the command of hia
ancestor, to show the Jews kindness, and especially that
it was to a Jew of this place that he and his whole family
owed their existence. He therefore endeavoured, so far
as possible, and with all hie power, to save the Jews
from the fury of the conquerors ; he took many under
his protection, and sent them away to his own home, to
Germany, and gave them possessions, houses, and fields,
where they could live quietly and in peace. He also
caused the Jews who fell in the conquest of Jerusalem, to
be interred under the protection of hia division of the
army.
Some years before I left my native land there appeared
a little work, written by one Dalberg, which spoke ex-
tremely kindly and sympathizingly for the Jews; the
author partly referred to the above event, and said plainly
that it is hia duty by inheritance to speak only well of
Israel, and to render them all possible service. " Send thy
bread on the face of the waters, for in the multitude of
days thou wilt find it again." (Eccles. xi. 1.)
In the year 4930 (1170), R. Benjamin of Tudela, tra-
velled through the Holy Land, and I extract from his
journal merely the number of Jewish inhabitants whom
he found in the following places, which will give us some
means of judging of their extension and condition. In
Antiochia there were about 10 Jewish families, whose busi-
ness was the manufacture of glassware ; in Ludkia were
200 ; in Gebal, the modem Djebl and ancient Biblus, 150;
in Beirut, 50 ; in Zidon, 20 ; in Zor (Tyre), 400, who had
several ships navigating the sea ; in Akko, 200 ; in
mSTORY OP PALESTINB, 367
Caesarea (Kisrin), 10 Jewish and 200 Cuthean ; in Lod,
but 1, who was a dyer; in Nablus, 200 Cuthean; in Beih-
Gubrin, 3 ; in Nob, 2, dyers ; in Ramlah, 30 ; in Jaffa,
1 ; in Ashkelon, 200 Jewish and 300 Cuthean ; in Jezreel,
1, a dyer; in Shunem, which is Turun, B^nS K*13:i B^^St*
300 ; in Tiberias, 50 ; in Gush-Chalab, 30 ; in Damascus,
3000 ; in Jerusalem, 200, who dwell near the Tower of
David nn hlM ; altogether, 4,858 Jewish, and 700 Cu-
thean families, which would give us about 30,000 indi-
viduals ; whereas, at present there are scarcely half as
many in the country. R Benjamin's mentioning neither
Zafed nor Hebron, should lead us to the conclusion that
at his visit no Jews lived in these places.
The celebrated Nachmanides J"30*1> who travelled in
5027 (1267) to Jerusilein, wrote to his son in Spainf
among other things as follows : " Jerusalem has about
2000 inhabitants, among whom are 300 Christians, who
have escaped the sword of the Sultan ; but there is scarcely
a Jew among the whole ; for when the Tartars captured
the city in 5025 (1265), many of the Israelites lost their
lives, and the remainder fled to Shechem. I only met
two brothers, who have farmed the dyeing business fix)m
the commander of the city ; and there are scarcely ten
* This name is moomprehenBible to me; wherefore I believe it to be an
incorrect reading, and that it shoidd be '< de les chevaoz legers,'' aa per-
haps a troop of light-armed horsemen were stationed there. Perhaps he
alludes by Turon, to Toranus, which is 10 English miles from Tyre, in
the direction towards Banias, which was built by the Christians; or per-
haps the modem village Turan, near Chittin (which see) ; but neither can
be identical with Shunem, as must appear evident from its position.
f This letter is appended to the celebrated DiKTi n'lin (The Law of Man)
at the end of Sioan '^ " The Division on Recompense,^' also a work of
the learned Ramban. At the conclusion to his commentary to the Pen-
tateuch, he gives a touching picture of the situation of Jerusalem as he
found it
I
I
3G8 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
persona who meet at the house of the dyers to hold divine
service.- I have urged them to found a general Synagogue
of their own ; for as the city is, so to say, without owners,
and there la no priority right of possession, whoever takes
possession of any house, dwelling, or court, (to be sure they
are all in ruins,) it becomes and remains his property.
We afterwards found a very handsome ruinous building,
with marble columns and an elegant cupola; we insti-
tuted a collection to restore it to answer as a Syna-
gogue ; wc then commenced the rebuilding, and sent for
the rnin 'IAD books of the Law to Shechem, whither
they had been conveyed for safety ; and now we have a
handsome regular Synagogue, where public divine service
is held ; for there are constantly arriving here brothers
and sbters in the faith from Damascus, Aleppo, and the
whole surrounding country, in order to see the ruined
temple, and to weep and moum over it."
At that time there lived here the learned Kabbi Moaheh
de Leon, who found the manuscript of the Zohar, com-
posed by R. Simeon Ben Yochai, which was concealed in
a cave not far from Miron.
In 5082 (1322), there was here the celebrated Astori
Hapharchi 'mSn '"lOn CK, the author of Caphtore Va-
pherach rnflT TjIflD, a description of his seven years'
travels and investigations in Palestine. At his time there
was already a large Jewish population in Jerusalem, Beth-
Shean> and in Eglon, at the east of the Jordan.
In 5171 (1411), a large Jewish pilgrim society was
formed, of distinguished, pious, and learned men in France
and England (?), consisting of more than 300 persons, in
order to travel to Jerusalem, The king then reigning
there showed them every honour and h?8pect, and per-
mitted them to build themselves Synagogues and col-
leges. The celebrated scholar, Rabbi Jcmathan Hakko-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 369
hen,* was likewise one of this society of pilgrims. (See
end of the book mm* D3tr.)
CONOEBNINQ THE QENSRAL CONDITION OF THE JEWS DURINQ THIS
PERIOD.
When the Christians conquered Jerusalem and Pales-
tine, the situation of the Jews became extremely misera-
ble, and many thousands were butchered by the holy and
jHOOf pilgrims. But after awhile, when these same Chris-
tians were attacked and persecuted in their tulm by Sa-
laddin, they were not able to be any longer persecutors of
the Jews; these then extended themselves gradually over
the country, and lived happily and contentedly under the
protection of the Egjrptian rulers, as will appear from the
number of souls in the year 4930 ; and, as a general rule,
the statement which I have madq above will be found
confirmed, that the Mahomedans of that time cannot be
regarded as enemies and persecutors of the Jews. Under
Sultan Saladdin they had great privileges and liberties ; for
he was a particular friend to our people, and he caused it
to be made known throughout his dominions, that every
Jew should have the liberty to settle unmolested in Jeru-
salem, and should enjoy all the rights of freemen. Jeru-
salem accordingly received a large Jewish population ; but
when the Tartars, particular enemies to the Jews, at a
later period, made an inroad into the city, the Jews had
* It appears that there is an error as to the time stated by the Shehi^t
Tehudah in which this society should have been formed, since Rabbi
Jonathan Hakkohen could not possibly have trayelled to Palestine in 5071,
as he lived more than two hundred years before that date. I would,
therefore, correct vf^^ 171, i. e. 5171, with vfjfzrsn, which error occurred
by dropping the two n ; this would give us the date 971, i. e. 4971
(1211) ', and in truth Rabbi Jonathan lived about that time. [This solu-
tion of the question will also remove the question of Jews being In
England at the time of the pilgrimage, which mky have been in 1211,
bat not in 1411. — ^Translator.]
24
370
HISTOBT OF PALESTINE.
to endure many persecutions. The later Ottomans also
were no persecutors of the Jews. Selim had, as liis physi-
cian imd confidant, Rahbi Joseph Hamon ; and was like-
wise a friend and benefactor to the Jews.
PEEIOD IV.
rsoM rae Rmait of sultan seuhan to thk peesent time.
Sultan Seliman the Great, the son of Selim I,, ascended
the throne in 5280 (1520), He is also called Seliman
Abu Alim; and he was the greatest and moat distin-
guished regent of the whole Ottman family. His empire
extended from the far cast, and the far south, to far in
the west, as far as the town of Weissenburg in Hungaryj
and he penetrated even, in one of his espeditione, up to
the city of Ratisbonne (Regensburg) , 8 miles south of my
birth-place, Floss, in Bavaria. In the year 5297 (1637),
he caused Jerusalem to bo enclosed with strong walls, after
they had been broken down and ruined for a space of 318
years, since 4979, as related above. He also caused the
aqueduct of En Etam to be built, which fact also was
stated above in its proper place; as also the southern pool
in the Wady Djurad (see above in the description of the
pools). He also built, in 5300 (1540), the walls of the
town of Tiberias. He was likewise a very great friend of
the Jews, and gave them all the privileges they required,
and conlerred on them several public employments and
offices ; and one of them was made commander of one of
the city gates near Zion, in 5283 (1523). He was no less
the friend and encourager of science, and he gave to liis
learned personal and court physician, Rabbi Mosbeh Ha-
mon, son of the Rabbi Joseph Hamon, who had been phy-
sician to Selim, the order to translate for him the whole
of the Scriptures and the Jewish prayers into the Arabic
tongue ; and the prayers especially obtained great approba-
tion from him. The learned Rabbi Tham, sod of Rabbi
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 371
David Abn Jechia, who was court physician, was his far
vourite, and Btood in high esteem at court. Seliman
reigned 46 years. After his death, the Ottoman empire
began gradually to decline, and could never again attain
to the same e.xtent which it had acquired under him. His
successors were but little distinguished for their deeds, bo
that there is but little to be told of them, and I therefore
will only enumerate them in succession.
In 5326 (1566), Salim I., the son of Seliman the Great,
ascended the throne. In 5334 (1574), Amurad 111.;
about 5350 (1590), Mustapha I., who was declared, in
5378 (1618), to have forfeited the throne, and in his
place Osman 11. assumed the government, in 5378 ; he
was murdered in 5382 (1622), when Mustapha I. again
obtained the govenmient, but for one year only ; and in
5383 (1623), Sultan Amurad (IV.) ascended the throne.
He was engaged in a war with the king of Persia in
5392 (1632). As his army took its march through Syria,
his general sent a written mandate to the cities of Aleppo,
Damascus, Zidon, Zafed, Akko, &c., that tbey should give
free quarters to his men, and supply them with every-
thing necessary through the three months of November,
December, and January (Kislev, Tebeth, and Shebat).
This order bore, as might naturally be expected, espe-
cially hard upon the Jews, since the preference is always
shown to them on all such occasions, and they are oppressed
and plundered more than other classes of the inhabitants.
It happened, unfortunately, that there was a great dearth
in the country, since the harvest had been very scanty,
and every one was in the greatest distress. The Pacha
of Akko, who ■yvas a great friend to the Jews, received an
order to provide quarters for 2000 horsemen in Zuied,
Zidon, and their environs ; but he replied, that not one of
the army should dare to come within hia territory, siqce,
with the great distress already existing, the country could
»
372 HISTOHY OF PALESTINE.
not possibly be troubled with such guests : and that, in
case of persistence, lie would be compelled to employ
force to repel the invasion of the country under his
charge; He actually called together an army of 40,000
Bedouins and Arabs, and placed them on the frontiers ;
he also sent 2000 men to cover Zafed, and prohibited
every one to go near the houses of the Jews, or to harm
the least of their property, or to demand anything from
them. All the troops could not find convenient quarters
in the town ; and as it was the rainy season, they
could not camp out, they wiyre even quartered in the
mosques, whilst all the dwellings of the Jews and the
thirteen roomy S^Tiagogues were spared. The general,
who bad taken up his winter quarters at Damascus, did
not tliink it prudent to employ force to obtain his de-
mands, and sent, therefore, none of his troops to tie quar-
tered in Palestine J and the whole country was spared the
presence of those troublesome and terrible guests, through
the favour of the Pacha for the Jews, whilst they carried
out their full measure of oppression aud tyranny in Da-
mascus and Aleppo.
In 5408 (1648), Abraim ascended the throne, but was
murdered the year following; and in 5409 (1649), his son,
Mahmed IV., ruled in his place. Mahmed had to quit the
throne, after reigning thirty-eight years, in 5447 (1687),
in favour of his son, Salim II., who was succeeded by his
son, Mustapha II., in 5451 (1691). Sultan Achmed III.
assumed the government in 5459 (1699), who was de-
throned in the thirty-first year of his reign, and thrown
into prisou. In 5490 (1730), Sultan Ottmau ascended
the throne; and in about 5510 (1750), Sultan Musta-
pha III.
In the year 5542 (1782), Sultan Selim became head of
the empire, but was afterwards murdered. During his
reign, in 5558 (1798), Napoleon Bonaparte, the general
mSTORT OF FALESTlIfE.
of the French army, invaded Egypt, and, having con-
quered it, he pursued his march to Palestine. He arrived
at Gazza, where be fought a battle with Abraitn, Bey of
Jlgypt, and Achmad Djizer, Pacha of Akko (St. Jean
d'Acre). On the 25th of December, 1799 (Kislev, 5559),
he captured Gazza. The Jews of this place bad to endure
a great deal fn^m his soldiers, so that many were induced
to escape by flight. On the 6th of March, 1800 {Adar,
5560), he came to Jaffa, where he ordered 4000 Turkish
soldiers to be executed. His route of march was then
directed to Jerusalem, in consequence of which a terrible
consternation, a perfect panic prevailed there. The Jews
of the Holy City were, in tlie mean time, in the greatest
danger of being all slain by the Mabomedan inhabitants ;
from which they were saved by the presence of mind
and wise demeanour of their chiefs, the learned Rabbis
Algazi and Mejuchaa. They were accused of standing
in secret correspondence and in a treaty with Napoleon to
deliver the city into his hands, through fraud and cun-
ning ; and, as the Mahomedans actually believed that all
the resident Jews of Jerusalem were spies and traitors,
they had secretly resolved among themselves to kill all
the Jewish inhabitants, so soon as Napoleon should march
upon Jerusalem. This resolution was, however, revealed
and communicated by a Mahomedan, a confidant and
friend of our ecclesiastic chief, to the Rabbia ; and, as it
was already universally known that Napoleon had re-
solved to march towards the Holy City, there was scarcely
more than a step between the Jews and death (1 Sam.
XX. 3). Our chief, therefore, bad at once a proclamation
made throughout the whole city, that all the Jews, from
the greatest to the smallest, should assemble in pfayer in
frontof the west wall of the temple (Oiyon VillD). in order
to entreat God for protection and aid for the city against
the French army. This order was at once obeyed, and
I
374 IIISTOBT OF PALESTINE.
an immense multitude assembled to perform their devo-
tion, to pray for the welfare of the eity and its inhabitants.
Tlie Rabbi then called upon the chiefs of the Mahomedans
to commence at once to make a new rampart and bastion
around the fort, the Kallai, and stated that all the Jews
were ready on the 8[K>t, no one to l)e spared, to labour with
all their might. This was actually done ; and even this
high chief, a venerable, gray-headed man, stood with
shovel in his hand, labouring on the fortification, digging
and working with the greatest industry, through which, as
one will naturally conceive, all Jews were stimulated to
be active. The Mahomedans now saw clearly that it was
nothing but calumny and falsehood to accuse the Jews of
a treasonable intention, since they proved themselves the
true defenders and protectors of the city and the country ;
nay, they thought much better of them in conaequence, as
they afterwards asserted that the general prayer of the
Jews before the "Mourning "Wall" had saved the city.
Napoleon had already reached Ramleh with his over-
whelming army, to march on Jerusalem ; but he suddenh-
altered his plan, the reason of which step is unknown, and
took up his march towards Akko, and left Jerusalem un-
touched, where the joy was indescribable, and people
asserted that this sudden change was owing to the Jewish
devotion, for which cause they were greatly esteemed bv
the Mahomedans. On the 18th of March, Napoleon ap-
peared before Akko, and on the 15th of April (Nissan), he
fought a great battle near Mount Tabor, where his gene-
rals, Kleber and Murat. defeated the Turkish army, and
put them to flight. A division of the French army then
marched towards Tiberias and Zafed, where the Jews were
greatly maltreated by the French. Napoleon now com-
menced the siege of Akko, which was occupied and de-
fended by the Turkish forces, under Djiaer Pacha, and the
English, under Sir Sydney Smith. The siege lasted till
fflSTORT OF PALESTINE. 375
the Slst of May (lyar), when he was compelled to raise it,
as he was attacked on all sides, and was suffering from
want ; besides this, the plague broke out fearfully in his
array, and he was therefore no longer able to maintain
his position. Enraged, he now commenced his return to
Egypt, and, appearing before Jaffa, he ordered the city wall
t^^^i Ijo demolished, and, quite inhumanly, he caused his sol-
diers who were sick with the plague, and whom he had
left here behind when he moved on to Akko, to be
poisoned, that he might be rid of them, and that they
might be no incumbrance to hLm on his return march, or
rather his flight to the south. He thus fled to Egypt,
and soon after returned to France. -Nevertheless, this
short expedition had much of interest and influence for
Palestine ; since the spirit of the Arabs became thereby
somewhat more animated, particularly in military matters,
for they saw the conduct, the mode, and ways of civilized
troops in campaigns, battles, and sieges; and 1 often heard
the Araba here express themselves, "Yes, Napolis and the
French have opened our eyes."
Sultan Mahmed II. came on the throne in 5568 (1808).
He commenced to give his government a direction some-
what more akin to that of civilized states, to which the
abohtion and execution of the Janissaries, of whom he
caused 100,000 to be butchered in 5588 (1828), greatly
contributed. A part of these troops, however, who were
natives of Palestine, formed the garrison in the Kallai ;
and even these had to quit the fort and city; and at pre-
sent the name of "Ginitsheris" is banished i'rom the whole
empire. But this monarch had also many tyrannical
traits, which he permitted himself to display against
several rich Jews at Constantinople, of which I shall
speak more hereafter.
In 5584 (1824), the inhabitants of Jerusalem rebelled
against SeUman, Pacha of Pamaacus, because of the ter-
376
niSTORT OF PALESHNE.
I
I
rible exactions which he practised agninet them. At that
time there was a garriaon of about 500 Araauts (Hamu-
wut) in the Kallai. The inhabitants of Jerusalem repre-
sented to the commander in the fort, that they were
engaged in a contest with the people of Beth-Lechem ; and
they therefore requested him to march with his Amaut^,
in connexion with the men of Jerusalem, against the rebel
people of Beth-Lecliem. The commandant did not think
of any deception, and leaving but very few men in the
fort, moved with his Amauts, in company with the men
of Jerusalem, on the 17th of Tamuz (June), out of the
city, on his way to Beth-Lechera, Scarcely, however, was
he gone, when suddenly several brave Arabs surjirised
the fort, drove out the few Arnauts who formed the
garrison, and took possession of the same. They then
fired several cannons as a signal to their fellow-citizeus
who served as soldiers for the time, ^d who were
outside with the commandant, that the city and fort
were in the power of the inhabitants. The comman-
dant asked his seeming auxiliaries why the cannons
were fired ; but they professed to know nothing of the
matter. At last, however, he found out, when too late,
that he was terribly deceived, and he saw clearly that he
had lost the city and fort. The people of Jerusalem were
far too powerful for him to think of entering the city
with his handful of men by force of arms. His supposed
alhes now returned, and denied him all ingress ; and after
all had safely arrived within the town, the gates were
closed, and _the commandant saw himself compelled to
leave everything behind him, and to move with his Ar-
nauts by degrees as far as Damascus. Jerusalem was
thus left to the will and pleasure of several Mahomedan
rebels, and our people had to submit to manifold exactions.
The event was soon rejrortcd to the Sultan in Constan-
tinople, and he gave Ahd Allah, the Pacha of Akko, orders
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 377
to take Jerusalem by storm from the rebels. He there-
fore moved on to the Holy City with a strong force, in the
month of Tiahry, 5586 (September, 1826), and took up a
position on the west side thereof, opposite the Kallai, and
commenced to bombard the fort, which, however, returned
his fire in such a manner that he woa speedily compelled
to give up this position, and he encamped then on the
Mount of Olives. He next commenced to fire terribly
into the city, as he had now a safe and sure point of
attack, the distance from the Kallai being too great, and
the Mount of Olives being too remote to be reached by
cannons and bombs from the fort. But something incredible
occurred in this bombardment, and I could myself, I con-
fess, scarcely believe it, if I were not firmly persuaded of
its truth, and could assure all my readers that it actually
so occurred. Thousands ou thousands of cannon-balls
were thrown into the city without doing the least harm,
and they appeared to have lost their destructive power.
They fell everywhere, in the courts, houses, and dwellings,
without killing or wounding any one. Children played
in the open court-yards and places ; and they often saw
a terrible cannon-ball suddenly fly in their midst without
touching one of them, and falUng harmless near their feet.
My friend was sitting in company ^vith several others,
when suddenly a ball came flying through the window
over their heads, and remained fixed in a hole in the wall
left there for ventilation, in the opposite direction ; had it
rebounded it would have caused a frightful havoc among
the persons assembled there. The balls occasionally passed
between people sitting near each other, without injuring
any one. At length the people became so indiflerent to the
bombardment, that they walked fearlessly about the streets,
so strong was the conviction that a higher Power pro-
tected Jerusalem. But a single mishap, of no importance,
occurred during the whole siege. My friend, G. A ^
i
HISTOHT or PALESTINE.
was sitting on his roof, when nil at once a ball fell near him,
and, as it exploded, a splinter struck his foot, causing a se-
vere but not dangerous wound ; he was soon restored, how-
ever ; but to this day he feels in a slight degree the elTecte
of the injury, when walking. This person was the only
Jew injured ; but the other inhabitants likewise, whether
Mahomedans, Chriatians, Armenians, Greeks, &c., remained
uninjured,* The bombardment lasted nearly two weeks.
The Pacha was astonished to find that he neither per-
ceived any injury or destruction in the city caused by his
cannons and bombs, nor that he was offered any capitu-
lation on the part of the besieged. lie thus saw that his
tx)mbardment was quite fruitless, and could not explain
it in any other manner than that a higher Power pro-
tected Jerusalem. He therefore offered favourable term^
to the city. Negotiations were now commenced, and on
the 22d of Tishry (October), the gates were opened to
liim, and he had a peaceable entry. The people of Jeru-
salem surrendered t<.> him both city and fort. He placed
in the latter some troops, remained some days longer in
town, and tlien moved off with hi^ anny without molestar
tion to Akko.
In the year 5592 (1832), Mahmud Ali, pacha of Alex-
andria in Egypt, declared himself independent of the
Sultan of Constantinople. His son, Abraim Pacha, moved
suddenly with a large force towards Palestine, and took,
without almost any resistance on the part of the adherent*
of the Sultan, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Nablus, and Chaifa, and
placed Egyptian soldiers as garrisons in the same, and
appeared next before Akko, Which was occupied by Ahd
Alia Pacha, and besieged it a long time, and took it finally
by storm, carrying away the Pacha as prisoner to Egypt.
He gradually now occupied all Palestine, Syria, Arabia.
* May not thia little csccution have been owing to nnskilfiJ gunaeiyF
—Trams.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 379
and Nubia, together with a part of Anatolia, and even
penetrated as far as Smyrna, and was about making a
conr(ue8t of Constantinople, when his progress was stayed
by the European powers, and ho was bidden to content him-
self witti his southern possessions, and give up his advance
to the north. He now commenced to introduce civilizar
tion in his dominions, instituted regular courts of law
and proper officers of justice, and restrained the wild
Bedouins ; but he more particularly extended his protec-
tion over the strange EuropeanB, called here the Franks,
gave tliem all rights, and even privileges, and would not
suffer them to be exposed to the arbitrary proceedings of
the Mahomedans. Ho conferred on the consuls ample
power, and the privileges and respect due their station, so
that the name of Frank was in a measure a title of nobility,
especially as he had not to pay any poll-tax or contribu-
tions, nor could be held to labour for the state.
In the year 5593 (1833), he conquered completely
the eastern part of Palestme beyond Jordan, called Al
Ledja (where he had several severe contests with the
Druses), Al Djedr, Hauran, &c. Soon after, he ordered the
Arabs and Bedouins to furnish him recruits for his army,
on the plan of the European states, and proceeded to
organize a formal conscription in the country. This was,
however, an extraordinary and unusual measure, since it
is not the oriental custom to raise troops after this fashion.
The Arabs and Bedouins of Palestine resolved, therefore,
with one voice, to refuse him this concession, and came to
an understanding among each other to organize a revo-
lution in the land agauist Abraim Pacha. Unfortunately,
he was at that time absent in Alexandria, and the whole
military force in the country was exceedingly small ; so
that the rebels had to use but little exertion to overcome
the same, and to gei possession of the fortified places and
the whole land, which in consequence became disturbed.
380 fflSTORT OF PALESTINE.
All the roads were unsafe, and highway roSoeneB were
openly committed, since immense hands of Arabs and
Bedouins coUeeted together and roamed through the
country. Their principal plan and aim was the capture
of Jerusalem, and to obtain possession of the Kallai,
which is the strongest fortified point, and contained the
chief garrison. The whole of the mass was divided into
four divisions, to conquer — 1, Galilee, i. e. Zafed and
Tilxjriaa, with their environs ; 2, Nablus (Shechem) ; 3,
Hebron; and 4, Jerusalem and the Kallai.
In the beginning of the month lyar, 5594 (May, 1S34),
word was brought that these bands were gradually ap-
proaching Jerusalem, and had already made their appear-
ance on the mountains not far from the city. On the
10th, therefore, the city gates were closed, and the siege
commenced ; and at midnight of the 22d, the town was
taken by the rebels by assault, — the first one which I ever
witnessed. Whilst a part of the rebels penetrated into
the city through a subterraneous canal, the others scaled
the wall, and others battered down the gates, and thus
obtained possession of the town. The soldiers, observing
in the moment of the assault that they were unable to
oppose the rebels with any degree of success, withdrew
into the Kallai, and left everything to the assailants.
What a terrible night was this for us all ! The echoing
of the voices of thousands of warriors, — of men, women,
and children, who all raised their wild Arab war-cry in
the gloom of the night, at the storming of the city ; the
tumult of the retreating troops ; the lamentations of the
defenceless, abandoned inhabitants, who heard already in
their midst the shouts of the infuriated conquerors, — all
presented a most mournful scene.
At daybreak we observed that the whole city was com-
pletely filled with an imiumerable mass of the rebels, great
and small, women and children. We thought indeed
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 381
that we were all lost, in being exposed to the licentious-
nesa of such barbarians; and some houses and courts were
already broken open and plundered : when suddenly the
herald or crier of the rebel leader, a just and venerable
Bedouin, who in this matter might perhaps put to the
blush many European generals, proclaimed throughout
the city that Mislamin, Yehud, and Nazrani might re-
main perfectly quiet and in peace, since no one should be
molested; and, if any one of his subjects should dare to
violate this order, he should be summarily dealt with
according to military rule. We felt ourselves partly saved
and happy through this proclamation. The soldiers, indeed,
made, a few hours afterward, a small sortie from the fort,
in which many of the rebels fell, and others were taken
prisoners; but they nevertheless could not maintain them-
selves, and had to withdraw again within the fortifications.
The rebels now commenced to fire against the Kallai; but
they had no cannons, consequently they could do no execu-
tion. The commandant, a venerable and philanthropic
man, who was particularly on terms of friendship with
many Israelites, could easily have opened a heavy fire upon
rebels; but he would nof employ the cannons against
them, as they were all within the city, which he was
desirous to spare. Although now they fired on the Kallai
from the city, they were unable to approach the fort any
nearer, not to mention that they could not scale it.
As they then found that it was impossible for them to
obtain possession of the fort by open violence, they en-
deavoured to undermine it; when suddenly the joyful
news was noised about, on the afternoon of the 28th, that
Abraira Pacha had arrived at Jaft'a from Egyjit, with a
very large force, and was reported already aa being near
Jerusalem, This news scattered the whole rebel army,
so that in a few hours scarcely one man of the whole could
be seen in Jerusalem, as they had fled towards Burak and
»
382 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
the mountainoiiH district near it. On the 29th, in the
morning, Abraini Paclia actually arrived, with bis large
army and heavy artillery ; and then only did we breathe
freely again, since we were in the greatest anxiety and
terror the whole preceding week, notwithetanding the
proclamation of the rebels.
The Piicha made, after a few days' rest, several rapid
expeditions against the rebels at Burak, and they snffered
on each occasiou a severe defeat, and many were captured
and imprisoned ; the remainder then moved farther to the
south, and united themselves with their confederates at
Hebron and its vicinity. Abraim Pacha then restored
order, appointed iu Jerusalem and its environs new judicial
officers, placed troops in the country, and moved against
Nablus, where he again defeat^ the rebels, and put a
garrison therein, and caused the principal instigators to
be executed. Order and quiet were likemse restored in
Galilee a few months later, through the chief of tlie Druses,
called the Amir Abshir. But the most obstinate were the
rebels in Hebron and its neighbourhood, as their numbers
constantly augmented, since the Arabs to the east of Jor-
dan also joined them, and. making common cause with
them, formed quite a fonnidable army. They rejected all
Bummons made to surrender by Abraim Pacha; till at
length he surprised them, on the 28th of Tamuz (July),
with a force of nearly 20,000 men, and caused a terrible
defeat, accompanied with a fearful loss of life, among them.
Hebron suffered severely, and was given up for several
days to the license of the soldiers, on which occasion the
Jews were great sufierers, as I shall mention more ftiUy,
under article " Hebron." From this place Abraim Pacha
extended his expedition of conquest to Kerak, and chas-
tised its inhabitants, who had destroyed his whole garrison
stationed in the fort of that city ; their sheich was taken
prisoner, and executed publicly in Jerusalem. The same
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 383
fate overtook several others, who had all been engaged
as authors of the revolution. Abraim restored peace and
order in every direction ; and, after the lapse of two or
three months, he was agaiij lord over the whole country.
Soldiers were quartered everywhere among the Bedouins,
all sorts of arms were taken from the Mahomedan inhabi-
tants of both to^vn and country, and only the strangers, the
Franks, were left in possession of their weapons ; houses
also were visited with extreme rigour; a close search
was instituted, to effect this end ; and Abraim Pacha be-
came at length so greatly feared in the whole country,
that his very name was a terror to the wildest Arabs.
The entire land enjoyed, in consequence of this, such
security that highway robberies were scarcely to be heard
of any more, and everything commenced to flourish.
People could travel unmolested, day and night, in perfect
security iu every direction, and this even among the
wildest Arab tribes. He also abolished and prohibited,
under severe penalties, the onerous and exorbitant so-
called Kafaar, which means transit toll, which was not a
fixed tax, but an arbitrary exaction, which every villager,
every sheich, every Bedouin, demanded at pleasure from
every traveller or wayfarer at every village, — I might
almost say from every one met in any division of a village,
even from a Bedouin working in the field; and it was
accompanied with the grossest maltreatment of the plun-
dered individual. The Israelites obtained permission to
rebuild their ancient but ruinous Synagogues, and all their
rights were conceded to them. In the year 5599 (1839),
an English consul was permitted to reside at Jerusalem,
and all the usual immunities were accorded to him, while
hitherto a European consul was scarcely ever suffered to
reside there. But Palestine was now compelled to furnish
regular recruits to the Pacha's army.
In SeOO (1840), Abdul Medjid ascended the throne of
384 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
the imperial house of Constantinople. After the death of
Sultan Mabmed, Abraira Pacha again commenced to ex-
tend his dominions beyond the fixed limits assigned to
him, and already made some conquests to the north of
his government from the territory of the Sultan ; where-
upon England and Austria joined the Turkish army to
oppose Ahraim's progress. In 5601 (1841), they be-
sieged Akko, and in a very short time this town, as also
the whole of Syria and Palestine, were again in the pos-
session of the Sultan. Abraim fled to Egypt, and his
whole army was dissolved, every one returning to his
home; and thus all the possessions which he had in Asia
reverted to the Sultan, so that only his African territory
remained under his sway. The Arabs and Bedouins
had their arms restored to them, and Palestine again be-
gan to retrograde, and to relapse into its former state of in-
security, since the Arabs obtained anew the privilege of
not furnishing any recruits, and of not being compelled to
he civilized by force ; the roads, or more correctly speak-
ing, the whole country, was rendered anew insecure, and
the Franks were deprived of many of their former pri\'i-
leges. Nevertheless, much of the good and beautiful which
Abraim hod introduced was retained. Many consuls
were appointed for Jerusalem, and now there are six of
them resident there, namely, Russian, Austrian, English,
French, Prussian, and Sardinian.
In the year 5604 (1844), the French consul obtained
the imperial permission from Constantinople to hoist his
national flag. But when he was about to display the same
on his roof, in company of the Pacha of Jerusalem and
several of the principal officers, a general insurrection
took place among the Mahomedan inhabitants against the
Pacha, and they employed violence, through which means
several persons were woanded, to prevent the unheard-of
outrage of displaying any other flag in the Holy City ex-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 385
cept that of the Crescent. The Pacha eeeing that the
maas of the people was too great, he yielded so far as
not to have the flag hoisted. And although several of
the rioters were afterwards arrested and severely punished,
the Mahomedans nevertheless maintained their ancient
right, and the permission was revoked by the imperial
authority ; and thus no consul is at this day permitted to
display or hoist his flag in Jerusalem.
In the year 5283 {1523), a learned ItaHan of Leghorn
travelled through the country, and he gives the Jewish po-
pulation as follows : In En Sethun, a village not far from
Zafed, where at present no Jews live, 40 families, with a
Synagogue, wherein were kept 21 copies of the law HflD
min; in Zafed, more than 300 families, with 3 Syna-
gogues ; in Alma, a village 5 miles south of Kedes in
Naphtali, where no Jews reside at present, 15 families,
with 1 Synagogue; in Gith (Gath Chepher), 40 families;
in Nablus, 12; in Hebron, 10, with 1 Synagogue; in Je-
rusalem, 300, among whom 15 German; in addition,
there lived tn Jeinisalera more than 500 widows; in Kefr
Anan 30, with 1 Synagogue ; in Beirut, 20, with a small
handsome Synagogue; and in Damascus, 500, with 3
Synagogues. He also says : " Tiberias is quite destroyed,
and entirely depopulated." The whole would give ua
1267 families, which, with the 500 widows in Jerusalem,
would probably constitute a population of about 18,000;
consequently, considerably smaller than at the visit of
Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela in 4930 (1170).
(In the original, there follows here a list of 28 Rabbins
who succeeded each other in Jerusalem from the year
5250 till 5G05, which, not being of interest to the gene-
ral reader, is omitted in our translation.)
In the year 5385 (1625), in the reign of Sultan Amrad,
386 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
there lived in Jerusalem the just and kind governor Mach-
mad Pacha, who granted the .Tews all possible privileges,
80 that they had their own properties, both houses and
fields, aud lived in tlie greatest security, contentment,
peace, and happiness. When suddenly a rapacious and
tyrannical Arab, who was blind in one eye, called Ibn
Paruch, purchased the jiost of Pacha of Jerusalem from
the chief of all Syi-ia and Palestine, the Pacha of Damas-
cus,— as it is nothing strange to sell offices to the highest
bidders. Ibn Paruch came thereupon, on the 26th day of
Tebetli (Jaiuiary), to Jerusalem, with an escort of about
three hundred armed men, and deprived the benevolent
Maehmad Pacha of his office. The situation of the
people now took a woful change, as Ibn Paruch tormented
them terribly, and made heavy exactions, especially from
the Jews, and often caused the most respectable men, the
principal officers of the congregations, to be thrown into
prison, and compelled them to satisfy his uubeardHaf de-
mands through means of crnel treatment, which often
brought them to the verge of the grave. Thus, for exam-
ple, he ordered the Synagogue to be surprised during divine
worship on Sabbath, the 11th of Elul, of the above year,
and caused fifteen venerable men to be tjiken {ram the
same to prison as hostages ; and they were not liberated
until he was paid 11,000 grush, or 5500 American dollars.
These scenes and exactions followed each other so often,
and became so general, that the Jews were gradually ex-
hausted, and could contribute no more money to satisfy
this monster's desires; they had to part with all their
gold and silver articles, and everything of value ; and at
length, to save their miserable lives from the tyrant, they
were compelled to borrow of their Mahomedan fellow-
townsmen the sum of 50,000 grush, for wliich, though ob-
tained for but a short time, — till they could obtain relief
fi-om their benevolent brothers abroad, — they had to pro-
niSTOBY OF PALESTINE. 387
mise the exorbitant interest of 20,000 grush, wherefore
their indebtedness amounted to 75,000 grush, or 35,000
dollars. Many endeavoured to escape with their op-
pressed families by flight; they left everything )>ehiiid,
glad only to save their lives ; but the tyrant placed guards
in every direction, so that no one could leave the city ;
and even when a corpse was carried out for interment, it
was examined, to diecover whether or not it might be one
feigning death endeavouring to make his escape.
The Jews nevertheless succeeded, in almost a wonderful
manner, to communicate in secret their dreadful situation
to their brothers in Constantinople, and to pray of them
to announce at court the raging of this hyena. The SiU-
tan waa greatly incensed at hearing the news, and com-
manded the Pacha of Damascus, also an insatiable extor-
tioner, immediately to depose Ibn Paruch ; who nevertheless
endeavoured, partly by artifice and the interest he had,
and partly by means of considerable bribes and presents,
to prevent the Pacha from carrying the imperial will into
effect ; and mainly gained his point by showing himself
openly as a rebel against the Sultan, inasmuch as he cap-
tured, on the 22d of Kislev, 5386 (December, 1626), the
Kallai, in which lay in garrison some troops of the Sultan,
under command of an Aga. This affair made him still
more formidable; and having thus little to fear from out-
ward force, he commenced to tyrannize yet more cruelly in
Jerusalem ; and he caused occasionally the most venerable
and aged Israelites to be dragged to the scaffold, and the
hangman stood wiih the axe in his hand, the rope was
already fastened round their necks, and it only needed his
diabolical nod to hurry these honoured fathers into eter-
nity ; and all for the great crime that they were not able
to furnish him any more money. So that every one was
tired of life, and sighed for death as a deliverer from an
insupportable burden.
L
388 HISTORY OP PALESTINE.
But at length as report Kiiid (whicli, however, Beems to
want confirmation), the Sublime Porte again gave orders
to the neighbouiing Pachas to attack the tyrant, and to
deliver him into prison. Those Mahomedana, however,
who were moat intimate and best acquainted with him,
related afterward the following as the real cause of his
precipitate flight. One night he had a dream, when he
Baw standing before him a venerable old man wrapped in
a purple cloak, who was about to slay him. Ibn Paruch
in great terror asked him who he was, and why he ap-
peared 90 inimical to him, to which the apparition an-
swered, " I am King David ; and know, tyrant, that if
thou quittest not the city instantly, and if thy eyes close
themeelvea here again in sleep, thou shalt surely die."
Ibn Paruch awoke trembling, and caused the treasures
which he had obtained by robbery to be collected together,
as far as this could be done, in the greatest haste, and
loading several camels with gold, silver, and other precious
things, he fled away suddenly and hurriedly, on Tuesday,
the 12th of Kislev, 5397 (December, 1627); and thus was
Jerusalem saved from the power of this monster, to the
general joy and gratification of all its inhabitants.
This remarkable occurrence I have taken in extract
from a printed document, entitled DvlTTl' m3in, " The
Ruins of Jerusalem," printed in Venice, in 5388 (1628),
in wliich this event is told circumstantially, and quite at
length. The document was written and signed by the
chiefs of the Jewish people at Jerusalem, and given as an
authorization to the messengers who had been sent to
Italy to make collections in behalf of the Holy City,
which had been reduced to indigence through the acta of
the tyrannical Ibn Paruch.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 389
E BEMARKABLE HISTORY OP PHARCHT.
In the year 5560 (1800), there lived in Akko a dis-
tinguished, pious, and rich man, called Kcibbi Hayim
Pharchi, whose family belonged to Damascus. He was
famous throughout the East not only on account of hia
great wealth, but also through his virtuous and generous
course of life. He stood in high esteem at the imperial
court of Constantinople ; and the choice of all the Fachas
in the whole of Syria depended on him. Whomsoever he
proposed at court was appointed and installed, so that he
might be considered in a measure as the ruler of all Syria.
Nothing also was undertaken by the Sublime Porte in the
East without first informing him of it. His house was
the asylum for all the distressed and the sufferers of aU
nations and religions. Nothing but justice and equity
could be executed in the whole land ; because all the
officers and authorities dreaded this just and excellent
man too much to do anything wrong. In him the
house of Israel in Palestine had, so to say, a pioua and
faithful regent, who protects his people in every pos-
sible manner, and bestows on them all kinds of benefits,
aod endeavours that all shall live happily under his sway.
He knew nothing of oppression and exclusion, not to men-
tion persecution.
There lived also at the same time in Akko the tyran-
nical Pacha, Achmad Djizcr, of whom I shall have to say
more hereafter ; he endoavoured to accuse the above noble
philanthropist of treasonable devices : he accordingly had
him arrested, and put out one of his eyes, and cut off the
end of his nose. The court at Constantinople was in-
formed of this terrible deed of infamy, but was not able
to act against the tyrant, because it was feared that he
would employ this as a pretext to organire a rebellion
mSTORY OF PALESTINE.
against the Sultan, and indeed there was ample evidence
to make this intention a matter of certainty almost. But
Achmad died soon after, and his place was conferred oo
Seliman Pacha. Pharchi had a distinguished Mahomedan
friend, who died suddenly, with his wife, and left quite a
young child, only a few years old, called Abdalla, who
was without any protectors, and was therefore educated
in the house of the noble Pharchi, who viewed him as his
own child, and had him instructed in all the necessary
scientific branches ; and in addition to this. Pharchi
caused that Abdalla waa appointed Pacha of Akko, after
the decease of Seliman. He at first viewed Pharchi as
his father, and followed his guidance to execute justice
and equity in the land. But as early as one year after
assuming the government, he commenced t» act counter
to this advice and instruction, and was reproved occa^
sionally on this account by his venerable guardian. Ab-
dalla now observed that he stood in his way, and that
he would be a check on the exercise of his mere will
and pleasure, and resolved therefore to get rid of him.
He endeavoured first secretly to accuse him of treason
and other charges, to find thus an opportunity to lay
violent hands on him. The confidants of Pharchi re-
vealed to him the terrible purpose of his ungrateful ward,
and advised him to save himself by flight. But he de-
clined doing this, and he answered magnanimously that
his flight would call down on all the Israelites of Palestine
the greatest persecution, and might indeed cause their
entire extermination, since the Pacha might be induced
through his escaping, to wreak his fury on this innocent
people. He added, that he was prepared for everything,
and would liear patiently whatever might occur, in order
to save thereby, or at least to benefit in some degree, his
own people.
Now it happened, on Thursday, the 28th of Ab, 5579
^
mSTORT OF PALESTINE. 391
{August, 1817), which the pious Pharchi kept at* a fast day
(as the eve of the New Moon of the month Elui), and as
he was about to take his supiier, that an officer with his
soldiers suddenly entered his apartment ; his death-warrant
was read to him, in which he was condemned on account
of treason, and with the offence that his private Synagogue
was built higher than the inosque of Akko, and several
other diabolical charges and crimes; and this sentence
was instantly executed.
The day following his bouse and court-yard wer« ran-
sacked and plundered, and a large quantity of gold, money,
silver, and other valuable articles were carried to the
Pacha, the monster and parricide. The corpse of this
martyr he did not even permit to he interred, but ordered
it to be cast into the sea; and when, the day following, it
was carried again on shore, he ordered it to be taken out
far into the sea, and then to be thrown into the water.
The pious widow of Pharchi fled in all haste towards
Damascus, but died suddenly on the road, and was buried
in Zafed ; and suspicion was entertained that sbe had
been poisoned by the furies who surrounded the Pacha.
This deed of terror excited universal consternation and
mortal fear in all Palestine, especially among the Israel-
ites ; and the parricide now showed himself openly as the
persecutor of the Jews in the Holy Land, and exercised
such acts of violence and abomination among them, as are
not perpetrated by cannibals and savages. My friend S.
M., who lives at present in Jerusalem, was at that time
an active and courageous young man, who oft«n went to
Akko as dragoman, that is, interpreter, with commissions
from the Russian Jewish congregation of Zafed, and in
consequence came frequently to the house of the ■ ■
consul. A few days after the above tragical occurrence,
he had to attend to some business for the congregation,
and therefore visited Akko, and the consul's house among
I
392 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
Others. All at once, Abdalla came In, and was received
very friendly by the consul, who was his bosom friend
from early youth, aa both had been at tlie same time
brought up by the same nurse. They went together into
a side room, and had a confidential conversation. S. M.
perceived that something very important waa being dia-
cuflsed between them, and had the courage to approach
softly and to overhear them. The euUitance of what
reached him was, that the Pacha requested his faithful
foster-brother not to interfere, in his consular capacity,
with his own affairs ; that he had no intention to touch
the foreigners who were under the cousul's protection ;
but that he desired of him not to put any obstacles
in his way, in the manner he intended to proceed
with the other Jews. The loorlhy consul had humanity
enough not to refuse any favour to his brother, and pro-
mised him faithfully not to make any representations
whatever to him m this respect, notwithstanding his gi-eat
influence. The Pacha then continued : " I mean, on the
coming Saturday, during divine worship, to surprise the
Synagogue, and to haug up before the same, on the in-
stant, the spiritual chief of the Jews, A. J. I intend,
also, to proceed in the same manner at Zafed, to capture,
during worship, the three richest among them (giving here
theirnamea), to hang them, and to confiscate their pro-
perty." My friend S. M, having thus listened to this
frightful conversation, moved quietly from the spot he
had occupied. The Pacha soon after took his leave; S.
M. of course did not give the consul the least cause to
perceive that he had heard what was going on; he there-
upon concluded his business, and then left him. But
he hastened to the chief, A. J., and revealed to hira in
secret the danger in which he was, and advised him to
escape on the instant by flight, without commimicating the
least to any one of the whole affair. The advice waa fol-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
lowed ; A, J. disappeared suddenly, and no one, not even
his household and friends, knew what had become of him,
or whither he had gone. S. M. hastened next with equal
speed to Zafed, and revealed the secret to the three pro-
scribed rich men, who also disappeared suddenly in the
same mysterious manner, and no one could tell whore they
were. The Saturday at length came ; no one knew any-
thing of the fatal plan of the Pacha, and all assemliled aa
usual in tlie Synagogue at Akko. Suddenly the troops
made their appearance with a gallows' frame before the
Synagogue, and they entered to seize A. J., in order to
hang him. But he was not there, and could not be found
all over the town. The Pacha now commanded to seize ano-
ther respected man in his stead j this was done, they beat
him cruelly, and dragged him, though perfectly innocent,
to the gallows, to hang him up. But the Pacha said he
would pardon him, if he would become Mussulman, and
confess the Koran. The other, in hia fright, assented,
and was thereupon liberated. But he afterwards fled the
city, despising the Koran and the Prophet, and lived
again as a faithful Jew.
In Zafed, also, the prior resolution of the Pacha waa
proceeded with ; but the three rich men destined to be
hanged had likewise disappeared, and could nowhere be
found. He therefore ordered all the Jews of the place to
be locked up in the castle, a small Kallai, and demanded
of them an exorbitant ransom, which they were unable to
furnish ; bo that they were compelled to sell even their
garments, and whatever of value they possessed, m order
to obtain their liberty. He also exacted much from the
Jews in Tiberias and Akko. But Jerusalem and Hebron,
being in the southern part of Palestine, belonged not to
the Pachalik of Akko, but to that of Damascus, and the
Jews residing there were spared for the present ; they,
however, had to endure since then other persecutions and
(
394
niSTOBY OP PALESTINE.
exactions, when the monster at Damascus (^)ened tride
hiB fiery and deep jawe, and threatened to Bwallow up
everything. Subseqnently to the above related event,
no one was secure in life and property in Galilee, on
account of the tyrant Abdalla, til! the excellent Aus-
trian Jewish consul-general at Aleppo, the well-known
Baron of Picciotto, employed the influence he had with
him to restrain him in his barbarous procedure against
his own brothers in faith.
In Daraaseus dwelt the three brothers of the martyr
Pharchi; they were the raost distinguished and honoured
men of the whole surrounding country, not only through
their wealth and their extensive commerce, which was
carried on to all parts of the Orient, but also for their
great inBuence in Constantinople and other large cities
and towns, and they were likewise famed for their honest
and noble conduct.* Their names were Seliman, Raphael,
and the youngest Mos^ Pharchi ; the last mentioned died in
6600 (1840), through the torture inflicted by Serif Pacha,
as one of the accused for the murder of Father Thomas,
in which this excellent man was, among others, charged
with having taken part in the slaughter of that old
priest, to make use of his blood at the celebration of the
Passover. When these men learned the deplorable death
of their beloved brother, they resolved to be revenged on
his murderer, even at the greatest sacrifices. Through
their great influence at Constantinople they succeeded
in obtaining a firman (a decree), signed by the Sheich al
■ Aslam^f literally, the chief of the faith, authorizing them
^1 * One who knew this (excellent fumilj ludDtitined that ihia name
^^R Phan/hi, "the Blooming," from Perach, "flower," was quit« approprintc,
^V* since among them was to be met with whatever was beautifuJ, great, no-
^V ble, and religious, iu the greatest flourishing etat« of development. Alas I
^H th&t at present the flowers arc nearly all fallen.
^^ j* This personage is the chief ecclesiastic of the Turks, on whose judg-
^B ment and supervision of the whole ritnal of the Moslems, all jurispm-
HISTORY OP PALESTINE. 395
to take hostile meaauree against Abdalla. It was a small
matter with them, on account of their immense wealth,
to engage Seliman Pacha of Damascus, Mustapha Pacha
of Aleppo, and two other minor Pachas, who were under
the jurisdiction of these two principal ones, with their sol-
diers, to take the field against Abdalla. A large force
having thus been collected, the expedition passed over the
Jordan in the month of Nissan, 5581 (April, 1621). Ab-
dalla marched out against the advancing Pachas ; and a
battle took place at the bridge over Jordan called Djisr
abn^ Yacob, in which he waa defeated, and he fled in
haste, retreating to Akko. The brothers Pharclii now
took possession of all GaUlee. deposed the officers appoint-
ed by Abdalla, and appointed others in their place. The
victors next laid siege to Akko, where the famine rose to
such a height, that a single egg waa sold at 70 grush,*
which at that time was near sis dollars, and a sheep at
900 grush, or 78 dollars. The siege was continued for
fourteen months, during which period the Pharchis sup-
plied the place of the Pacha in the country, and acted as
governors. But it was decreed that Abdalla should not
yet meet his deserts, and he was permitted to have a few
years more indulgence. He succeeded, through treachery,
to have the worthy Seliman Pharchi poisoned, through
which means he died suddenly in the month of Nissan,
5582 (April, 1822). Mustapha Pacha likewise showed,
by his acts and conduct in battle, that he was not true to
the cause in which he had embarked. Raphael Pharchi
was therefore induced, shortly after the decease of his
dCDce depended. The Sollan himself cannot nltor Lis dcfiaion, and hiB
eignature is considered e<]ua] to that of the Emperor.
* The grush or piaster has no fixed exchange value ; at present, it
is 4 cents, 50 grush being 1 ducat, or 2 dnllare ; Bome years ago, even as
man; as 60 were only worth a ducat. In old timeit, this term denoted a
coin nearly in value a Spanish dollar, — at another time the half of this,
or 50 cents.
i
896 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
elder brotlier, to withdraw with Seliman Pachs to Sa>-
miujcus. Muntapha, it is true, maintained the siege till
the month of Sivan (June), when he also withdrew to hia
own government.
Ahdalla saw himself thus freed from danger from that
quarter, and had only now to fear the action of the Porte,
and therefore ri'quested Mahraud Ali, the Pacha of Egypt,
to act as mediator between him and the Sultan. The
Egyptian Pacha now employed all his influence to obtain
the pardon of his compeer of Akko. The Sultan was
greatly astonished to learn all the above proceedings,
which were perfect news to him, since he had never been
before informed of the tragical end of Pharchi of Akko,
nor of the Damascus expedition against Abdalla, as the
firman of the Sheich al Aalam was obtained without any
knowledge on his part, and procured of the Divan (the
council of ministers), through the great influence of the
Pharchi and their very rich Saraf or court-agent, Rabbi
Bechor Karmona. Tlie Sultau was so incensed at this,
that he banished the Sheich al Aslam from Constanti-
nople, as he dared not to have him executed, but inflicted
the punishment of death on the Saraf in the month of
Tamuz, 5582 (July, 1822). But the greatest and the
real crime which induced the Sultan to this execution
was, that the wortliy Rabbi Bechor was too rich, and that
he desired to appropriate to his own use the alleged crimi-
nal's great wealth. Abdalla was thus saved a second
time ; but instead of being grateful to Mahraud Ali, he
subsequently commenced to defy him, till at length he
was induced to besiege Akko in 5592 (1832), when he
took Abdalla and carried him as prisoner to Egypt.
A SHORT DE8CEIPTI0N OP HEBRON.
Hebron is called in Arabic "J'^n 7K D'D Beth al Chalil,
" The House of the Beloved," because Isaac, the beloved
h ^
"PuHnkt* iy A H«[, PkiUiilji:
HISTORY OF PALESTINE. 397
son of Abraham, was born and educated here, and, as
appears from Genesis xxii. 1, resided also here a long
time. It is situated in the portion of Judah, 20 English
miles south from Jerusalem, in a valley (Gen. xxxvii. 14) .
The mountains which surround it are the highest points
of the mountains of Judah, and are 26G4 feet above the
surface of the Mediterranean Sea. It is a small town, or,
more correctly speaking, a very large village, which con-
sists of several divisions, each, so to say, constituting a vil-
lage by itself. It contains several thousand Arabic inhabi-
tants. On its eastern end is the cave of Machpelach rnj^Q
rhsDDTl, Arabic, Al Magr, i. e. the cave. It ie also called
the Fort of David, and is a very handsome and most
ancient structure, built of immense stones, and surrounded
with strong and high walls. It forms, in a measure, a
fortress. Beneath the surface of the earth is the cele-
brated cave where the patriarchs lie buried. It is covered
over with masonry, having a small opening on the top,
through which the Mahoraedana constantly lower burning
lamps, and maintain there a perpetual light. Above
this cavern is a mosque, built at a later date.
Hebron is mentioned but little in history after the
destruction of Jerusalem, and I will therefore merely
relate the few traces which I was able to find.
When Benjamin of Tudela travelled through Palestine
in 4930 (1170), Hebron was entirely destroyed, probably
through the wars of the Christiana with the Saladdiniao
kings. He says, " Here is a large church, called St. Abrar
ham ; and it was, when the country was still in possession
of the Ishmaelites, a Jewish Sjiiagogue." This proves
that, during the rule of the Mahomedans, before the Chris-
tians came, Jews must have Uved there. About seventy
years later, when Rabbi Pethachiah of Ratisbonne ''nnS 'T
J113D3JnO travelled through Palestine, it was already
in a measure rebuilt; but no Jews were living in it. At
398 msTORT OF Palestine.
the time of the Nachmonides I"3D1, in 5027 (1267)
Jews were found here, as he wrote to his son* that he was
on the point of going to Hebron to select for himself a
spot to be buried iu. It appears, however, that they after-
wards quitted it again, as Astori, in the year 5082 (1322),
says nothing of any Jewish families in Hebron. In 528S
(1523), there hved here but (en Jewish families. When,
in 6300 (1540), the celebrated Rabbi Jechiel Asbkenazi
went to Hebron, he found in it many Caraites. He founded
there a Jewish congregation ; and it appears that he pur-
chased a Synagogue, which exists to this day, and belongs
to the Sephardin (Portuguese), from the Caraites. Aboat
twenty-five years ago there came several messengers from
the Caraite congregation at Constantinople, to lay claim to
the said Synagogue, alleging that it was originally their
property; but they were easily and soon confuted, for
they could not establiah their allegation. Since the time
of R. Jechiel to our own day, Hebron was uninterruptedly
inhabited by Jews.
In 5594 (1834), Hebron met with a heavy calamity,
since it was taken by storm on the 28th day of Tamuz
(July), by Abraim Pacha, and given up to his soldiers for
several days. One can better imagine than describe the
scenes which were then enacted. Nearly all the Mahome-
dan inhabitants fled into the depth of the mountain range,
but the Jews could not do this ; besides which, they enter-
tained but little fear, since they could not be viewed as
rebels and enemies by AbraLni, wherefore they fell an
easy prey into the hands of the assailants. When the
Pacha marched out to take Hebron, a petition wsis pre-
sented to him by the officers of the Jewish congregation in
Jerusalem to take those unfortunate people under his pro-
tection, which ho faithfully promised to do ) but, notwith-
* See above, Period III., year 5027.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
standing this, they were not spared at the taking of the
town, so that five Jews were purposely murdered, and all
their property which had not been buried under ground
was either stolen or destroyed in the most wanton and
cruel manner. Abraim did then indeed place a guard
around their quarter of the town, but it was too late ; and
he said, " Whatever is ali'eady in the hands of the con-
querors, the soldiers, cannot be demanded back again of
them ;" wherefore the whole Jewish community was sunk
into poverty.
One of the leaders of the Hebron rebels was the Sheich
Abd al Rachman, who had his seat not far from the town
Al Dura (see p. 113, Art. Adoraim). lie had been for
several years previously the principal personage of the
environs, as far as the Dead Sea and the Djebl (Mount
Seir). When Abraim Pacha had conquered the country, he
fled, and the Pacha appointed in his place the Mutzelim,
Abu Suwat, who had been even before this time an
enemy of Abd al Rachman, and he therefore acted inimi-
cally toward.^ those of his family who had been left behind.
But when the government of Abraim came to an end, in
5601 (1841), the banished chief again appeared, greatly
respected and with increased power. He also acquired
anew a strong party, and became again the Sheich of the
whole district. He thereupon caused Abu Suwat to be
publicly executed in Hebron, and acquired gradually such
authority that the Pacha of Jerusalem did not think it
prudent to venture putting a check on his proceedings
and actions; and the name of Abd al Rachman sounded
more fearful and was more respected than that of the
Sultan. The whole vicinity was at that time quite secure,
and one could, with the greatest safety, travel among the
Arabs and Bedouins ; because they were strictly prohibited
to rob or to make their usual exactions, since this right
belonged to the Sheich alone. He was exceedingly cun-
I
I
I
]
L
400 nrsTORT of Palestine.
ning, and never missed making the capture of tbose i
pursued in a witty aud ludicrous manner, and ho was
particularly fortuDatt' in his expeditions. So it happened
that on his flight he was caught by the soldiers of Abraim
in such a way that they had got hold of his red ter-
bush :* he nevertheless succeeded in eluding their grasp,
merely leaving the empty terbush in tlicir hands. To-
wards the Jews he permits no ill-treatment; but he is a
most insatiable leech, as scarcely a day passes on which
some demand is not made, which, though not presented
as an extortion, comes in a worse shape yet — in that of a
request or petition, with an understanding that a threat
may be added to enforce compliance. And, as his whole
family, from Httle to big, imitate, each for his own benefit,
the magnanimous head of the house, it is almost impos-
sible to live among such leeches; aud actually the greater
part of the Israelites of Hebron have left it and settled in
Jerusalem.
In the year 5605 (1845), Abd al Rachman'a two brothers
rebelled against him, and laid claim to his government,
that is, they wanted the right to plunder : they procured
adherents, and a regular partisan warfare ensued ; in con-
sequence of which, Abd al Rachman was driven out. He
next collected some Arabs, and had several bloody fights
with his brothers; and it appeared that his good luck had
forsaken him. But at length his star again became iu the
ascendant, through which, or rather through his heavy
gold, he succeeded to induce the Pacha of Jerusalem to
take his part, who then marched against Hebron with a
large force, in the month of Sivan, 5606 {June, 1846).
He took the town after several skirmishes, and reinstated
Abd al Rachman in his government. On this occasion the
Jews suffered severely, many were dangerously wounded
A pticuliar long cap which the Turks wear, thougb it ia not mach
need among the Arabs, who adhere to the turban.
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
at the taking of the town, and deprived of all their pro-
perty. The two rebel brothers took to flight, and have
not been heard of up to the time of writing this, in
5609 (1849). Ahd al Rachman governs therefore unop-
posed, and IB very industriously engaged in filling up the
great deficiency in his heap of gold, which had become
diminished through the war with his brothers, by his
usual exactions from those subject to his rule.
Hebron has two congregations ; first the Sephardin,
containiog about 60 families, who have a very ancient
Synagogue, as I have stated already ; and secondly the Ash-
kenazim, consisting solely of about 50 families, since many
of them have left and moved to Jerusalem. This congre-
gation, however, has been in existence only about thirty
years. Still, they have two Synagogues, one built thirty
years, and one fifteen years ago.
A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF 2APED OBX, ARABICE, AL ZATED.
This little town is situated on the summit of a high
mount, in the mountains of Naphtali, in one of the hand-
somest districts of the whole country, with a very wide
prospect all round, and with a clear and pure atmosphere,
wherefore it is naturally very healthy. The name of the
town is nowhere mentioned in Scripture, and it was there-
fore undoubtedly built at a period subsequent to the
biblical records. Josephus, in his Jewish War, Book ii,
chap. XXV., mentions a town Seph or Zeph, in Galilee ;
unquestionably our modem Zafed. So also we find in
Yerushalmi Roeh Hashanah, ii., a town iiflif Zefath. But
except in these, two places, I could find no vestige of the
name in any other book of antiquity. So also I find no
mention of Zafed in all the middle ages before 4947
(1187) ; since the celebrated historian, Rabbi Joseph
Hakkohen (pSH f)DV "h D'DTl nsn), relates, that at the
battle of Chatuu, the Christians fied as far aa the fort of
402 HISTOKY OF PALESTINE.
Safid, undoubtedly Zafed, where a small and antacM^
yet exists. In the year 4930 (1170), when R, Benjamin
of Tudela travelled through Palestine, he mentions no
Jews as residing in Zafed. Only in the year 5250 (1490),
it commenced to he inhabited hy Jews uninterruptedly to
the present time ; and since then the most disthiguished
and most learned men were residents of it. About the
year 5330 (1570), the number of the Jews was so uncom-
monly great, that they had seventeen Synagogues, among
which, one belonged to the Ashkenazim ; they had even
a Jemah printing office, that of R. Abraham Ashkenazi,
in Zafed, Birie, and En Setun, two villages yet existing
near Zafed, although no Jews now reside there. I myself
have seen a Midrash Agtir printed in Zafed In the year
5386 (1026). It would appear that the Jewish popula-
tion had at that tiqio reached its greatest extent, and
commenced then gi'adually to diminish. In 5518 (1758),
Zafed was visited hy an earthquake, through which 200
houses were destroyed, and 140 Jews lost their livea.
Those who escaped, deprived of their shelter, left it in
consequence, settled elsewhere, and only 50 Jewish fami-
lies remained behind. In 5520 (1760), there were yet
standing five Synagogues. In the years 5525, 5537, and
5540 (1765, 1777, and 1780), many Jews from Poland
settled in Zafed, and it began to flourish a little in conse-
quence of this immigration. In 5572 (1812), all Galilee
was visited with a frightful pestilence, and in Zafed the
mortality was so great that scarcely one fifth of the entire
population escaped with life. Many fled to Jerusalem;
but the plague, having been carried thither by the fugi-
tives, broke out subsequently there also, and raged with
violence. It was only after the lapse of several years
that Zafed recovered in a measure ; and the Jews lived
very happily under the protection, or rather government,
of the noble R. Chayim Pharchi, of Akko, until the tyran-
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
nical Abdalla Pacha conimenced his misrule there, in
5580 (1820).
In the year 5594 (1834), during the rebellion of the
Arabs and Bedouins against Abraini Pacha, Zafed suffered
fitjm a fearful calamity. On Sunday, the 8th of Sivan
(June), a very large number of Arabs and Bedouins from
the environs of Zafed, aided by those from the east of the
Jordan, suddenly surprised the Jewish quarter of the
town, and wasted and destroyed everything to such a
degree that I am not able to paint accurately the scene
of devastation which then ensued. Everything was car-
ried offwhicli could possibly be i-emoved, even articles of
no value ; boxes, chests, packages, without even opening
them, were dragged away ; and the fury with which thia
crowd attacked their defenceless victims was boundless.
One of the Bedouins in his eagerness dragged off so heavy
a box that he was a corpse after a few hours m conse-
quence of the violent exertions he had made. A good
old Arab woman, who lived near the Jewish quarter, re-
proved her sou for his barbarous proceedings against his
worthy neiglibour, who had always shown himself so
friendly towards him, and begged him to spare the same.
But the Arab became «o incensed at this reproof, that
he gave his own mother such a blow that she soon after
expired.
The Jews in consequence left everything behind, and
fled into the open country, some going to Birie, others to
En Setun, and others to Miron, where they found here
and there some old acquaintances among the Arabs, who
had compassion enough on them to permit tliem to take
shelter for the moment in their courts, although it waa
merely under the bare sky, naked as they were, and de-
prived of all their possessions. There lay thus a crowd
of several hundred men and women, old and young, nay,
women who were expecting to become mothers, or who
4
I
i
404 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
had just giveu birth to a child, all intermixec
scarcely any garments to cover their bodies, since even
their clothes had been stripped from them by the savages,
and with ecafcely a drink of cold water to quench their
thirst. Nevertheless, on account of the very old acquaint-
ance subsisting between them and many of their protects
iug Arabs, who at the same time were probably moved
by the hope of a hundred-fold return, they received here
and there in a few days a little Bedouin bread, the so-
called Pitta, which is scarcely fit to eat, and this in such
small quantities, that each individual obtained daily aa
much as the size of three fowls' eggs. This miserable
situation continued for six weeks, to the 22d of Tamuz
(July). In addition to all thi-s euffering, they were kept in
constant danger of their hves. aa it was all along reported
that they were all to be killed by the roving baud who had
first attacked them ; and they had thus to dread, the whole
of this fearful time, that every day, every hour, might
prove their last. Several, however, of the Jews, espe-
cially the Ashkenazim, who were perfectly familiar with
the Arabic language, and thoroughly acquainted with the
customs and habits of these Arabs, had the courage to
procure the poor dress of the Bedouins with a few arms,
through which means they resembled the robbt^rs so
thoroughly that they could not be recognised, and they
therefore could mix freely among the miserable rabble,
and commence plundering in their turn ; they had
thus a good opportunity to go to their own dwellings,
and recover the gold, silver, and money, which they had
hidden under ground. While thus occupied, they often
were met by the real robbers, and they had then to
divide tlic booty equally and fairly with them ; and it
thus happened that many a one of tliese pretended Jewish
rubbers broke into his own house, where, but a few days
or even hours before he had dwelt happily as the head erf"
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
the family, aurrounded by those dear to him, and now sat
as a marauding Arab, in the midst of such society, speak-
ing ill, quite indifferently and in a merry mood, of his
own people, in order to play successfully his dangerous
part, although his heart might be torn and bleeding all the
time, and being compelled, after ransacking all, to divide
his own property with these bloodhounds. Nevertheless,
much was saved in this manner which otherwise would
have been lost.
The whole Jewish quarter was thus demolished, and
was uninhabited during full six weeks, so that wild
beasts began to take up their abode in the same, and on
the return of our people they actually found a tiger in a
ruined cellar. As might be expected, many were greatly
misused during this scene of rapine, others were wounded
and maimed, and several were actually slain. The Syna-
gogues were particularly exposed to the fury of the assail-
ants; the rolls of the law were trodden upon and cut in
pieces; Tephillin and Tallethim were used as straps and
coverings for their cattle ; books were torn into shreds ;
in brief, everything was blasphemously destroyed, so that
even a cannibal might be ashamed of such doings.
During nearly all this time the robber-troop remained
in Zafed, first, in order to be able to search often among
the ruins, in the hope of finding yet something not before
discovered, till at length not a bit of wood was left, and
doors, windows, and boards were all torn away; and
secondly, to divide, by degrees, their booty among them-
selves. They were perfectly safe and unmolested; for
they had learned that Abraim Pacha was, at the moment,
80 much occupied at Jerusalem and vicinity with his
enemies there, that ho could not go into Galilee. They
also took the precaution to guard all the roads, and
placed sentinels everywhere, so that the poor prisoners
could not give any information abroad of their pitiful con-
I
406 HISTORY OF palestint:.
dition. But "behold, the Guardian of Israel slumbeiv
not and sleeps not ;" and the chiefs of the cougT^gation
succeeded, notwithstanding the vigilance of the Arabs, to
send an account of al! that had occurred to the consuls at
Cliaifa, Akko, and Beirut. These now unJt«d as one
man to inform Abraim Pacha at once of these events, and
they represented to him the great danger in which the
poor Jews were, and asked of him to interpose by force with-
out delay. But as it was then impossible for him to make
a campaign in Galilee, he commanded the chief of the
Druses, Amir Abshir, with whom he stood in friendly re-
lations, to advance in all ha«te to save the unfortimate
Jews from the power of the Bedouins.
Abahir therefore appeared suddenly In Zafed on the
22d of Tamuz, with a strong force of Druses, and the Is-
raelites were reUeved; they now returned, but found
everything totally ruined and destroyed. But a new
scene was now enacted, as severe measures were demand-
ed against the robbers. Many of the Bedouins belong-
ing to the east side of Jordan saved themselves by flight ;
still, many of them were taken by the Druses. The
most respectable Mahomedans of Zafcd and its environs
were arrested as the authors of the outrage, and stime of
them were afterwards publicly executed, and whatever
could be found of the stolen property of the Jews was re-
stored. Every Jew was believed, when saying that he
recognised this or that Arab among the robbers. The
person so accused was instantly arrested, and punished
with blows till he at last confessed and gave up hia
booty. Even many of the richest and most respectable
of the Arabs were arrested, loaded with chains, and pu-
nished, upon the mere assertion of a very poor and common
Jew. The word of a Jew was regarded as equal to the
command of the highefit authority, and severe punish-
ment was at once resorted to, without any previous inves-
niSTORT OF PALESTINE. 407
ligation, without any grounds or proofs. In thia manner
much of the stolen property was discovered ; since many,
in order not to be exposed to the violence of the Druses,
delivered up everything of their own accord. The Jews
were now required, by order of the Pacha, through the
intervention of the consuls, to make out a correct list of
all they had lost, of whatever they missed, and to indi-
cate the true value of the same, and to hand it in to
Abraim Pacha through means of the European consuls.
The losses thus ascertained amounted to several millions
of piasters.* Abraim devised a plan to collect, by force,
gradufdly, a sum equal to this amount, from the inhabi-
tants of the country. It was divided into several terms
of payment ; and the Jews actually received a part of
their losses. But through later mishaps by which the
land was yisited, such as earthquakes and deficiency of
harvest, it became impoverished ; and not long afterwards
Abraim lost the government, everything got into confu-
sion, and thus the Jews were repaid scarcely one-fourth
of what they had lost. The whole Jewish community of
Zafed is accordingly impoverished.
Finally, the terrible earthquake of the 24th of Te-
beth, 5597 (January, 1837), destroyed Zafed completely.
On this occasion 1500 Jews lost their lives, and were
buried with all their possessions in a moment of time.
The few who escaped alive settled elsewhere; and the
town only commenced to recover a little, and to be re-
built and again inhabited, after the lapse of several years.
In addition to this, when, in 5598 (1838), Abraim Pacha
was engaged in a violent contest with the Druses, these
surprised Zafed suddenly in the month of Tamuz, at the
* For the value of these coins of account, see note, page 395; a.t
4 cents the piaster, the properly tlius loat would be at least 80,000 dol-
lars,— a moderate eBtimate, eyen with the acknowledged poverty of the
people. — Thahslatoh.
«
H
I
I
408 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
Bame time of the year in wliicli they had appeared four
years before as protectors and defenders, plundered and
ill treated the Jews yet remaining there, and thus de-
stroyed completely the last vestige of their prosperity.
Under the present government, Zafed is left entirely ex-
posed to the pleasure of the surrounding Bedouins and
Arabs, and its Jewish inhabitants lead a constant life of
terror.
There are at present two congregations in Zafed ; 1,
the Sephardim, numbering about 130 families, with one
Synagogue; and, 2, the Ashkenazim, numbering about
200 families, also with one Syna^gue.
A SHOBT DESCRIPTION OP TIBERUS.
This town is situated on the western shore of the Lake
Chinnereth. Its name is derived from that of the Roman
Emperor Til>erias Caisar,* who reigned in the year 3718,
A. M,, 110 years before the destruction of the temple.
In Tal. Megillah, 6 a, are found several opinions as to the
name of the town which formerly stood on the site on
which Tiberias was built. According to some, it was Rak-
bath ripl; according to others, Chamath riOn (Josh. xix.
35). After the destruction of Jerusalem, it was the seat
of the most learned Jews ; and the last Sanhedrin, and
the latest Nessiim, till about the year 4125 (365), had
their seat there. Near this city stood formerly a castle,
mentioned in Yerushalmi Abodah Zarah, iii. " When
Rabbi Jesi'died, the castle of Tiberias '12DT pSl^Dp fell
in." It was still standing in the reign of Baldwin IV ,
• So says Bcreatith Rabbah, ch. 31, that Tiberias lias its name from
King Tiberias; Alexandria, from King Alexander ; and Antio«li, from
King Antiochus. There i» also mentioned, ibid. 20, a woman from the
house Tibrinus DU•^3U n-2, which I suppose to signify t
Tiberias.
Fy the town i^^^k^
HISTOBT OF PALESTINE.
I could find but few traces of Tiberias during the mid-
dle ages, only that in 4398 (638), all the Jews and Chris-
tians were driven out by the Kalif Omar ibn Kataf; but
when the Christians conquered the country at a later pe-
riod, Jewish inhabitants were found in it, and Rabbi Ben-
jamin of Tudela reports there already 50 Jewish families.
A little while prior to this, it was the seat of the most
distinguished scholara and grammarians of all Palestine,
who had an academy there, 7nj| CIID, as reported by
Ibn Ezra to Terumah. It was destroyed in the subse-
quent wars of the Christians with Saladdin ; and it was
still uninhabited in the year 5283 (1523), as only 12
houses were standing in it. Sultan Seliman had it sur-
rounded with a wall in 5300 (1540), and it commenced
to revive a little, and to be inhabited by the most distin-
guished Jewish literati; but it was again destroyed in
5420 (1660).
In 5502 (1742), the celebrated pious Eabbi Chayim
Abulafi^, of Smyrna, settled there, and had the city wall
restored at his own cost ; and it was again inhabited by
Jews through the exertions of this distinguished man.
Soon after, Tiberias had to endure a severe contest and
siege from an Arab tribe of that neighbourhood, at which
E, Chayim and his small Jewish population distinguished
themselves; on account of which, he was nominated chief
of the city by the Mahomedan inhabitants, as a mark of
respect. This distinguished family of Abulafi^ has pro-
duced a large number of the most learned men. At the
present day it flourishes in Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Da^
mascus, and contains the wealthiest men in the Jewish
congregations in these cities.
In 5540 (1780), many Polish Jews emigrated from their
own country and settled in Tiberias.
In 5594 (1834), during the Arab rebellion, the Tiberias
Jews suffered the least. The rebels locked them up in
i
410
mSTORT OF PALESIEft.
I
I
their quarter of the town, and demanded an immeose s
of money. The prisoners perceiving in what danger they
were, gurrendered at once nil they had ■without the least
hesitation, according to the advice of the wise king, " It
is a time to Iobc" (Eccles. lii. 6), and were then liberated,
and no farther extortion was practised. But when Abraim
Pacha overcame the rebels, they preferred their demand
to him, again according to Solomon, " It is a time to gather
in," and all the extorted property had to be restored to
them.
In 5597 (1847), Tiberias was almost entirely destroyed
by the great earthquake of the 24th of Tebeth, when
nearly 500 Jews perished in the ruins ; the city wall also
fell down. Afterwards the city gradually recovered, and
it is now nearly rebuilt, but the wall still lies in ruins.
Tiljerias has two congrtgationa ; 1, the Sephardira, with
a handsome Synagogue and 80 families ; and 2, the Asb-
kenazim, with two Synagogues and about 100 families,
who are all Poles and Russians. The Jewish inhabitants
of Tiberias enjoy more peace and security than those of
Zafed.
*. SHORT BEVIEW OF THE EOTTTIAN KJNODOM.
As Palestine was a long time under the dominion of
rulers of Egypt, I deem it not entirely superfluous to take
a brief view of this country.
Up to the year 4400 {G40), Egypt was a part of the
Komano-Greek, i. e., the Eastern Roman Empire. In
this yeoi' it was conquered by the Kalif Omar Dm Kataf,
and it thus came under the protection of the Mahoraedan
Kalifs. In 4628 (8G8), Tartaric hordes, composed of
Turkomans and Turks, overran thewholeof Western Asia
and Egypt, and they obtained possession of the country,
until the year 4772 (1012), when the Kalif Al Chakim,
of the Fatimite family, defeated them, whereupon the
5^
BISTORT OF PALESTINE. 411
Kalifs governed Egypt until 4930 (1190), when Saladdin
arose, united Palestine with Egjrpt, formed a particular
state, that of the Saladdinites (Ayoobites), and severed it
from the Kalifat. In 4980 (1220), ruled Sultan Nadjma-
din, one of Saladdin's family, who formed the corps of
the Mamelukes, similar to the Janissaries at the Ottoman
court. But they rose against the family of Saladdin in
5010 (1250), and chose a king out of their midst in 5014
(1254), Turan Shach Mameluki, and maintained the
government two hundred and sixly-four years, till 5278
(1518), when Sultan Salim L,* of the Ottoman family,
conquered Egypt, and caused the last king of the Mame-
lukes, Sultan Tumubera Diadoro, to be executed. The
country came thus imder the government of the Ottoman
emperors of Constaiitinople, or more correctly speaking,
under that of the Be6& (Beys), also a species of Janis-
saries and Mamelukes, who always ruled the land, but
more particularly the govemoTy for the time being. These
Be6s obtained their greatest power and renown under
AU Be6, in the year 5526 (1766). In 5559 (1799),
Napoleon Bonaparte conquered Egypt, and it came,
though for a brief time, under the power of the French, on
which occasion the Beeis lost much of their renown and
power, till at last, in 5580 (1820), Mahmud Ali Pacha
caused all the Be^s to be executed, and thus procured
himself the sole dominion over Egypt. It is now inde-
pendent of the Ottoman power, send forms a state by
itself. In 5609 (1849), this Pacha died at a very old
age, and as his son Abraim had preceded hun to the grave
several months, the government is now in the hands of
his son Abbas Pacha.
TO THE HISTORICAL PART.
OOKTAlNmi) TRAITS Ul
LSAXicnra, OBUHTAti WIT, no.
1. THB paOHtBlTKD TEANBIT TOLL.
Soon after Achmad Djizer Pacha had assumed the
government of Akko, he prohibited the so-called Ka/ar,
or transit toll, which every village took upon itself to exact
from all passing through it. But in order to convince
himself whether he was obeyed or not, he imdertook fre-
quent journeys through the country, accompanied by a
small force. Before he entered a village, he would send
some oue in advance, to discover whether he would be
allowed to pass unmolested, or whether the Kafar would
be demanded. If he was actually detained, he hiniBelf
came up quite indifierently, and pretended to be a mere
stranger to the matter, until he had in person convinced
himself fully that the prohibited Kafar was actually de-
manded ; when the greatest offender in the matter was
instantly seized and hung up on the spot in the public
street, and suffered to remain suspended a long time as a
terror to the others. Such scenes were enacted in many
villages and towns. All this produced such a dread among
the Arabs and Bedouins, that so long as this Pacha ruled,
the Kafar was not heard of any more.
_J
APPENDIX. 418
2. THE TENDER FEEUNQ Of A TYRANT.
Through Achmad Djizer's unexampled severity and
fearful cruelty, which he exercised everywhere, in all
relations, and for the smallest trifle, such fear and anxiety
were excited among the Arabs, that the whole country was
quiet and secure, and the robber Arabs and Bedouins con-
ducted themselves as peaceably as lambs. You could
travel by night through the whole country without being
molested by any one. A respectable citizen of Akko
went one evening to take a walk outside the town, and
met at a great distance from it, an Arab woman, who
was pursuing her way quite alone. He asked her,
whether she had no fear to walk alone at so great a dis-
tance from the town ; to which she replied, " Thanks be
to Alia, so long as he keeps alive our Efendi (Lord), one is
safe everywhere." The citizen had the next day some
business at the Pacha's, and anxious to compliment him
upon his being so generally feared throughout the coun-
try, he related to him the answer of the Arab woman.
"What!" he exclaimed, in a rage, "thou venturest to
terrify the poor woman to ask her whether she has any
fear to walk alone ! since she must have felt some little
fear in the moment when thou didst put the question to
her." And he had him executed on the spot, out of a
tender compassion and pity for the poor Arab woman^
who must have experienced some fear.
3. THE JEWISH KILLER (SHOCHET) AS EXECUTIONER.
One day the Jewish Shochet of Zafed was at Akko.
Suddenly there came some Guwass^s (servants) of the
Pacha, to seek him, with the command to appear before
his highness without delay. He was greatly terrified;
for he could form no idea why he was so suddenly sum^
414 HISTORY OF FALESTIKE.
moned, and augured nothing good. Wlien he had be^^
speedily conducted before the Pacha, oue may imagine his
surprise to see a Bedouin lying hound, and to hear the
Pacha giving him the command to elay tlioa man, since
he was a practised killer. The Jew knew well enough
that he should always be regarded by the friends, ac-
quaintances, and adherents of this Bedouin, as his mur-
derer, and would therefore never more be sure of his life,
since the offence could only be atoned for by a vengeance
of blood for blood. He therefore fell on his knees before
the Pacha, and had the presence of mind to free himself
from the execution of the unpleasant order by a ready in-
vention. " I am, gracious Lord," he said, " a poor man, the
father of a numerous family, whom I support in a very
humble manner by my office of killer ; if I, however, were
to obey thy august command, to slay this Bedouin, I would
not be fit any more, according to our Talmudic rules, to
act as Shochet ; because the hand which once has shed
human blood, can never again slay cattle for the food of
man, and I should thus be without bread for myself and
family, and we would be sunk into the greatest distress."
The Pacha was deeply moved on hearing the words of
this poor head of a family, and said, " If this be ho, then
go thy way, as I \vill not deprive a poor man entirely of
his bread ;" and he seized the sword, and cut off, himself,
the head of the Bedouin, out of pure compassion for the
killer.
4. THE RIGHT PROOF.
One day the Pacha stood at a window in his palace at
Akko, and observed that a soldier a.sked of an Arab peasant
woman, who was selling milk, ten paras' worth (about
one cent) of her commodity, which he obtained and drank
up. When the woman asked for her money, he averred
that he bad not yet received the milk, and would only
APPENDIX. 416
pay when she had duly furnished him with it. The
woman cried aloud that he had already drunk the milk ;
but he maintained the contrary. No one was present who
could appear as witness ; but the Pacha had seen every-
thing, without being perceived by them. He had both
thereupon summoned before him, as though he knew
nothing of the whole dispute, and asked unconcernedly,
for what they contended, when they told him their story.
The Pacha demanded an oath froin the soldier, who swore
that he had not* drunk the milk. The other, who from
the evidence of his eyes knew the contrary, said then that
an oath is no certain proof to discover the truth ; but that
he knew of a surer and entirely reliable evidence, to wit,
that the man's stomach should be ripped open : if now the
milk be found, he should pay the Arab woman the ten
paras, and have to defray the expenses of being sewed
up again himself; but in case no milk be found, he need
not pay the money, and the wonlau should defray the cost
of sewing him up. The Pacha's method of proving the
fact was at once executed, the milk was found undigested
in the soldier's stomach, and the woman received her ten
paras.
5. THE SOLDIEB'a MEAL.
The Pacha came once accidentally into the barracks at
Akko, and heard in the kitchen a great quarrelling and dis-
puting among the soldiers. He stepped furiously into the
kitchen, and without asking the cause of the quarrel, he
grasped the first soldier whom he could lay his hands on,
and pitched him into the large kettle in which the food
for the soldiers was prepared, and which happened then
to contain boiling rice; after he had boiled for some
time, he was taken out, and had to be eaten by his quar-
relling comrades in the presence of the magnanimoHS
Pacha. What a horrid meal !
i
HISTOBT or PALESTHO!.
6. THE WALL OF PARAIHSK.
There raged at one time a frightful epidemic among the
Mahomedans in Palestine, whilst nearly all the Jews were
spared. This circumstance excited such envy and hatred
among the former, that they resolved to kill all the Jews ;
but they were secretly informed of this design. But what
could these unprotected people do to stay the fury of the
inhuman monsters ? They theretbre sought safety in the
all-powerful material, which is so jMjtent from sunrise to
sunset — money. They promised the Kadi a considerable
sum if he would frustrate the evil design. He ordered
the Jews to remain quiet and without fear, and he would
promise to grant their request. The succeeding day he
preached a sermon to the people, telUng them that he had
been grieved a considerable time, and wondered why
only the pious Mussulmans were so terribly visited,
whilst the unbelievers were spared. But the preceding
night Mahomet had apjwared to him in a dream, and com-
forted him by saving, " Take courage, thou faithful be-
liever! know that for these several years past, the wall
of Paradise needeth repairing ; but this year it fell down
altogether. In order to rebuild it quickly, the labour
of many believers is needed ; this, therefore, has caused
the great mortality among the faithful. It is therefore clear
that the unbelievers must be spared, for they cannot be
permitted to enter paradise." When the Mahomedans
had heard tliis joj-ful news from the mouth of their holy
preacher, they were rejoiced, and wished even to die, and
they desisted from their purpose of laying hands on the
Jews, because they were not worthy to die in the general
mortality, as perhaps, through the crowd of the deceased
hurrying onward, some of the unbeUevers might by acci-
APPENDIX. 417
dent attain to the dignity of being admitted among the
labourers on the Paradise wall.*
7. THE JEW FOUND IK AL OHARIM.
In the year 5593 (1833), soon after my arrival in
Palestine, it happened that the Mahomedans found one
morning, at their entering their great mosque on the
Temple Mount, Al Charim, a young Jew, who had re-
mained there the whole preceding night, and had made
great havoc among the costly lustres, lamps, lanterns, and
the like — whatever, in fact, he was able to destroy. But
it was speedily perceived that he lacked reason, and was
not much less than downright crazy. The furious Maho-
medans, however, fell upon him, and he was dragged out,
thrown into prison, and cruelly beaten the whole day,
all of them thinking it a reli^ous duty to ill-use him.
Every one, therefore, who passed by, and every one who
could get near him, deemed himself obliged to strike him,
in quality of a faithful believer. He was, therefore, beaten
with cudgels, sticks, hands, and fists, besides being kicked ;
and it was almost a wonderful thing that he was not torn
to pieces by them, and killed on the spot j but the latter
alternative was purposely avoided, as he was destined
to be reserved for something yet better and higher, — a
punishment yet more agreeable to Alia. The rage of
the barbarians went so far that every Jew who was at
that time seen in the street was ill-used, and it was feared
that they would have to suffer a general assault of the
* If the pioufl Germans, French, and Spaniunls had hnd likewise Buch
correspond en ta from Paradise, when, inrthe year 5108 (1348), a fearful
plague raged also among them, and spared the Jewa (see Zemach
David, part 2d, year 5108), who might have informed them that the
wall of Paradise had then fallen dowp, and pious Christians were wanted
to repair it, surely those frightful slaughters and persecutions would not
have taken place. Perhaps the Mahomedans are nigher to Paradise thau
the others, since they have several correBpoudenta then.
I
I
418 BISTORT OF PALESTINE.
faithful. This Btate of things lajnted several days, until,
fortunately, the Egyptian troops arrived, on their march
tt) the seat of war in the North, aud, stopping a few
days, restored quiet and order. The day on which the
awful criminal should be publicly burnt had almost
been determined on already; but it was resolved first fo
inform the lord of the land, Mahmud AU of Egypt, and
to obtain his sajiction and confirmation, which no one
doubted would be readily given. But the Pacha answered
brietly, " that the guards of AI Charim were responsible,
and greatly deserving of punishment, in so carelessly exe-
cuting the duties of their office; and that the Jew should
be set 'at liberty, since the sacred law which interdicts the
entrance to Al Charim to a non-Mislamin, under punish-
ment of death, that is, to be burnt, is inapplicable in the
present instance, because tlte Jew is also circumcised, ami
is thus somewhat akin to the Mislaminj that he could
not indeed he permitted to enter freely the sanctuary;
nevertheless he is not liable to the death penalty." The
pious believers kxjked givatly surprised when they heard
this resolve, but they were compelled to let the maiefacttw
go at large.
actOT I
8. THE BABOAIN VOID IN LAW.
A merchant of this city once bartered several chests of
indigo (in Arabic AI Nil), with another merchant, for
sugar. But, before delivering the iudigo to the purchaser,
it rose greatly in value, and he sought for some device to
declare the bargain void. The other merchant, however,
maintained, as was natural, that the trade was perfectly
fair ; and, as the other would not deliver up the indi<^
he saw himself compelled to go to law. In the mean time
the defendant went privately to the Kadi, and promised
him a considerable sum if he could annul the sale, although
there was no pretext for such a proceeding. On the day
APPENDIX. 419
fixed for the hearing of the case, both parties appeared
before the Kadi, to hear his judgment, whether the sale
should be set aside. The judge gave thereupon the fol-
lowing wise and just decision : " Indigo is hlxie; sugar, on
the contrary, is white; therefore they are almost of opposite
colours, and in nowise similar, wherefore they cannot be
bartered against one another ; and the sale is accordingly
declared null dnd void."
9. THE POISONED OOFVBE.
Some years before Mahmud Ali had assumed the govern-
ment, and the Arabs had the ability and power to tyran-
nize over the Jews, a very rich Jew of Constantinople
emigrated hither. The Mahomedans ardently desired to
find some pretext against this rich man, in order to
extort money from him, according to their fashion. One
day a Mahomedan, accompanied by a Bedouin, lead-
ing two camels loaded with charcoal, entered the court-
yard of the Jew, and said that, as no doubt he was in
want of coal, he would spare him the trouble to go to
market for it, and brought therefore to his house two
heavily loaded camels with this necessary article. But
the Jew, fearing some evil, made some excuses — ^was very-
grateful for the kindness of the other, yet averred that he
could not make any use of it, as he was well supplied
already. But all subterfuges were in vain, and the Ma-
homedan forced him fairly to take the coal ; and when the
other asked after the price, he answered, " N^ver mind, give
what you think the article is worth. Yet, as thou camest
but lately in our holy city, it is no more than becoming
that thou shouldst invite us, as faithful fellow-citizens,
into thy house, and entertain us with pipes and coflfee,*
until the camels be unloaded by the servants." " Let it
be so," answered the rich man ; 9iid, opening the door of
* The oriental oastom of entertaining strangers.
*.
»
420 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
his saloon, he told them to enter. Coffee and pipes i
brought in ; they drauk and smoked, spoke of indifferent
tilings, when Huddenly the Bedouin sunk down ns dead,
and gave no signs of animation. The Mahomedfui jumped
up fi-om his seat in a great rage, and addressed the Jew
with a loud voice — "Murdeix-r! what hast thou done?
Thy coffee is poisoned ! Shall we tolerate the Jews
among us, that they may lay plots against our lives?
This murder shall lie washed out by the blood of all the
Jews." The other protest4.*d his innocence, trembling, with
tears in his eyes, saying, "Ilave I not drunk myself of
this coffee ? How, then, can it be poisoned ?" " Then must
the Bedouin's cup have contained poison," was the furious
reply of the other. The Jew adduced all sorts of proofs
of his entire innocence. At length the Mahomedaji was
moved, and said, "My friend, 1 indeed pity thee and all
the Jews of the city; but 1 can think of only one remedy
by which thou and thy ^wople can be saved. Have thy
court-yard immediately locked up, bo that no one firom
without will be able to enter. I will employ all possible
means to suppress this affair and keep it a profound secret;
and this evening I will send thee two confidential persons,
who shall fetch away the corpse and bury it in all secrecy;
and in this way thou and thy brothers will be saved.
But to effect this a large sum of money is necessary,
which I am sure thou wilt readily and willingly furnish
on the spot." The trembling Jew esteemed himself happy
that the matter could be settled with money, and gave
immediately the sum which the Mahomedan had de-
manded, large as it was, with great willingness and with
the utmost unconcern. The other went away, and the
corpse was left lying in the saloon. Alter sunset two
Bedouins arrived with a large sack, in which they thrust
the corpse, took it on their shoulders in profound silence,
and walked away greatly terrified. But scarcely were
APPENDIX. 421
they a few steps distant from the house of the rich man,
when the dead Arab jumped out of the sack ; and the Jew
now learned for the first time that the whole afiair was a
gross deception, contrived merely to extort from him the
large sum he paid for his ransom.
10. THE GRAVE OF MOSES.
The Mahomedans make annually a pilgrimage in the
spring to the grave of Moses, which is about 20 English,
miles to the east of Jerusalem, and nearly 7 from the
western shore of the Dead Sea. A Wghly respected and
learned Mahomedan, the Sheich, or rather preacher in
the great mosque on the Temple Mount, is in the habit of
visiting me constantly, and gives me many an explanation
concerning Mahomedanism. I asked him one day, how
it were possible that the grave of Nebi Mus^ could be on
the spot indicated, since it is explicitly said in Holy Writ,
that the true grave is on the east side of Jordan, whilst
the monument of Nebi Mus4 is to the west of the same.
He thereupon told me : "I will jnake thee acquainted
with a tradition which many of our own learned men and
many of the faithful do not know. Listen — it. is now about
eighty years ago, when there lived here a distinguished
and pious dervish, i. e. a simple devotee, who spends his
time in spiritual and religious contemplations and acts ;
this saint was" continually grieved concerning the great
fatigue and danger to which the faithful were exposed in
going over the Jordan, to make their pilgrimage to the
grave of Mus^, which is on the eastern side. He therefore
thought on means to avert this^ necessity, midst fasting,
bathing, and prayers; but he could not succeed; and it
lasted a long while before he was answered by Alia. At
length, however, Mahomed appeared to him in a di^eam,
and said to him, that his prayer had been accepted, and
that he (Mahomed) had obtained from Alia the favour to
422 HISTOBT OF PALESTINE.
be permitted to transport the whole grave to the -western
shore of the Jordan, in the vicinity of Jerusalem, in order
to save the pious pilgrims of the Iloly City and its envi-
rons the great fatigue and danger of travelling over the
Jordan. He showed him also in this dream the exact
spot whither the- holy grave was to be transferred. Soon
after a monument was erected on the spot indicated by the
dervish by the pious faithful, and this is the now well-
known Nebi, Mus^ on this side of the Jordan, Art thou
DOW satisfied, asked my credulous Mussulman informer, to
find the grave of Mqs^ on this side of the river?"*
11, HOW TBI BEDOlnNS CB083 RIVEBS WITBOCT BBDMBS.
In the rainy season, tlie little wadys often swell and
become great rivers, overfloning their banks, and thus
prevent any one from passing to the other side for
several days. When they begin to grow a little shallow,
and the travellers are tired of waiting longer, a set of very
tall and strongly built Bedouins make their appearance,
and as it is their business to transiwrt men and baggage
across the stream, they undress themselves completely,
take the traveller, who embraces their liead quite firmly,
on their shoulders, and wade through, whilst the water
often stands up to their brea'^t, and place their burden
safely on the other shore .f When in this manner all the
travellers are transported, the small packages are carried
over, and then the cattle are driven through; after which
all the things are repacked, when the journey is continued.
* If Mahomed has the power to transport graves, it would be ad\-isable
for hiro to transpose himself Iiis own grave from Mekka, in Southern
Arabia, to some more conveniant norlhera Mabomedan possession, in
order to spare his folloners ao long and dangerous a journey.
t These carriers may truly aay with the Paulmist (livi. 12), " Thou
liaet caused a man to ride on our Lead, we have come into (_fire and) nuter,
and thou hast led as forth happily."
APPENDIX. 423
With the greater rivers, for example the Southern Jordan,
where there is no bridge, and which is not fordable even
in the latter part of the summer, the ferriage is managed
by the Bedouins with their cattle and baggage in the fol-
lowing manner : the smaller cattle, such as sheep and
goats, are all cast into the river, and they then swim over
of their own accord ; the camels, however, which are not
able to wade the Jordan because it is too deep and rapid,
and as the great length of their legs prevent them from
swimming, are driven close to the edge of the water, where
they are made to kneel down, and their feet are then tied
together with strong cords, so that it is impossible for them
to raise them or to stand erect; they are then pushed into
the water by the Bedouins with all their strength, and
they are thus forced to swim over. They present indeed
a most curious and ludicrous means of ferriage. With
their head and hump out of the water, bobbing up and
down as they are accustomed to do in walking, unused to
the fluid element, and feeling themselves, though manacled,
carried forward, their spirit seems to be occupied with the
business of crossing over ; and the whole appears to be to
them a great mystery, as they indicate by constant, im-
patient growling. When they have arrived safely on the
opposite side, their bonds are instantly loosened, and they
jump up, as one might say, quite joyfully, in having suc-
cessfully accomplished their -toilsome voyage.
Men and baggage are ferried over in a yet more singular
manner. They take eight to ten water-skins, made of goat>
hides, blow them full of air, tie them together on a square
framework composed of several stout poles; on these
they place some pieces of wood and boards as a floor;
they fasten next the water-skins under the frame, and
this artiatkal ship is thereupon launched into the water,
and its cargo placed on it. The inflated water-skins pre-
vent this frail vessel from foundering, and the crew then
1
<
424
HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
Bcull it over with their sticlcB to the other side of the
stream. As may be imagined, this conveyance is not very
safe, and it often happens that those who trust themselves
to it make on it their last voyage, as they land from it in
eternity. However, it is in this wise that the poor Be-
douin knows how to help himself in various positions;
and if he does not understand how to propel his vessel by
steam, he can at least prepare his conveyance by filling
the water-flkins by the breath of his own mouth.
12. MISLAMIN.
The name Mislamin, Mussulman, is etymological ly de-
rived from the root Salem, " perfect, complete, enlightened,
faultless," or a man who has attained perfection in all his
relations. The title or expression Malim, " muster, or
doctor," is a term of offence to the Mahomedans, where-
fore they are never addressed by it. Should a Mahome-
dan be called or addressed in this manner unawares, he
asks very angrily and offended. Ana Malim, " Am I only
a master or learaed man ?" You have then to apologize,
and to say that this offence was committed without
thought, witliout any intention of wounding his feelings.
The salutation Selam Alikun, " Peace with you," should
only be used among Mussulmans, but not from a non-
Mahomedan to a Mahomedan, unless to offend him and
be offended in turn by his rude reply. A non-Mahomedon
has to address a follower of the Koran with Alia vi, " God
be present." Selam should be used only by and to a Sela-
men, Mislamin. The only pity is, tiiat the poor Mislaniin
is perfect already at his birth, and thus brings his perfec-
tions with him in the world like the animal, wherefore
he has no necessity for any cultivation or improvement.
But in modern times it appears that the Mahomedons do
not regard themselves any more as so completely perfect,
and are not so particular with the different titles, and
APPENDI3. 425
tacitly submit to be sfyled once a while " learned, doctor,
or master."
13. HOW A NON-UAHOHEDAN CAN WORK IN AL CHABIM,
As the Mislamin now considers himself perfect in
every point of view, it is quite natural that he holds it
derogatory to hia dignity to learn any trade ; hence you
seldom find among the Mahoraedans, and this among the
poorest classes, any mechanics; the rarest of all do you
find them masons and carpenters, which trades are mostly
supplied by Christians, and latterly also by Jews. If it is
now the case that something has to be repaired in Al
Charim, and the pious faithful are under the deplorable
necessity to entrust this work to a Kafr, or unbeliever, in
this instance always a Nazrani, because no Mislamin can
be found to execute it properly, and the Jews not being
permitted, according to their own Mosaic law, to enter at
present the holy place, on account of the want of purificar
tion (see Num. xix. 13 and 20), and as they are thus '
compelled to permit a Kafr to enter, they do it in this
way : a black African dervish, belonging to the guard
of the sanctuary, appears at the gate of the Temple Mount,
takes the Nazrani on his Bliouldere, and bears him, run-
ning rapidly, to the spot requiring repair, the whole room
in which he has to work being covered and hung round
with carpets or coverlets, on which he is set down ; and
he is prohibited, on pain of death, to touch the bare floor
in any manner. When the work is completed, he is again
taken up on the shoulders of a dervish, and carried out
at a running pace. As may be expected, all the places
whither the Kafr has been carried must afterwanls be
purified by holy incense, scented dnigs, and rose-water, of
the Mimm of the Kafr. Ncverthelfss, in this respect also
the faithful have become more indulgent, and are not so
averse as formerly, to come in contact and closer con-
»
420 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
nexion with unbelievers, especiall}' if these are their o
djtors, or they expect to obtain favours from them.
14. THK MODE Of WOKSBIP OP TUK ASBKBNAZIU BSrORX TQET WERE
PEHMITTED TO HAVE A ByNAQOatJE,
As I have told already in the description of the Aeh-
kenazim Synagogue, they commenced only as late as 557;^
(1812), to be again seen in Jerusalem, which they fbrnierly
did not dare to do. When their numbers gradually in-
creased, and the Mahomedans appeared to have already
laid aside some of their hatred towai-ds them, incurred on
account of the indebtedness of their ancestors, they hired
a small place as a Midrash, and even took courage to hold
worship therein ; but they could not venture to carry
thither a miH IflD " A Roll of the Law," without the
sanction of the chief civil authority ; for to do so without
previous permission being obtained would have been re-
garded and punished as a grave crime. But as it is im-
possible to hold a regular public worship without a Sepher
Torah, they procured a small one, which was put up in
the form of a large book, that is, they put it in between
covers, and thus placed it among tJie other reading books,
and it was hardly distinguishable from them. When they
read out of it, and when it was necessary to remove it
from its cover, they had, as may expected, to close the
gates of the court-yard, and to place guards around, that
no Mahomedau might detect them at their terrible crime,
the great sin of reading the Word of God. But through
some oversight the matter became knowii to the Maho-
medans. One day, therefore, while the gate was closed,
during their rcadmg the Sepher, they all at once heard a
loud knocking at the door, when they put the book hastily
in its cover, and placed it in the usual spot among the
other biioks ; immediately there entered a considerable
number of the most respectable Mahomedans, connected
APPENDIX. 427
with the administration of justice, to convince themselves
by personal inspection of the crime committed by the
Jews. They, however, saw no Sepher Torah, and the
terrified worshippers maintained that they had no Asara
Kilmat (literally " The Ten Words," meaning the Ten
Commandments, by which name the Arabs designate the
whole Roll of the Law, as well as the Tephillin and Me-
zuzah)j out of which to hold public reading. But the
others asked why they found the doors of the court closed ?
To which the malefactors replied, that they had done it
on account of the dogs, which nm freely about the
streets, who otherwise would rush in and disturb them in
their devotions. The Mahomedans now searched in all
comers, but never once thought that what they sought for
was standing before their eyes among the other books.
They, however, went away both furious and confounded,
since they were convinced that a Sepher must be in the
place of meeting though they had not been able to dis-
cover it. When the inquisitors had thus left, the congre-
gation again closeJ the doors and finished the reading.
The day following the owner of the place came to the
president of the community and said : " We know for a
certainty that you have an Asara Kilmat in your Midras,
out of which you read in public; but a higher Power must
protect you to make it invisible, since we could neither
see nor find it : give me now a considerable sum of money,
and I will efiect that no search shall again be made in
your meeting-place ; because, if I, as proprietor, am in-
different whether such a sin is committed in my house^
and that it is so degraded, it must be a matter of indiffe-
rence also to the other worshipful Mahomedans." The
president gave him what he demanded, and they had now
nothing to apprehend to be again molested by the visits
of the authorities.* At a later period the congregation
* It thus appears that the gravest prohibition, the greatest crime ma.^^
be winked at by the piouB belieyers, through means of a ^i^K^^^V^- ^^
I
428 BISTORT OF PALESTINE.
applied to the pupreme government at Constantinople,
when they obtained a Jtrma?i (decree) to be allowed to
read publicly in their Midras out of the f^pher Torah ;
and in 5597 (1837). they obtained at length permission
to rel)iiild their ancient Synagogue, when they restored
the solemn public worship in the usual manner.
15. PERJURY AND THEABON.
In the year 5586 (1826), when the people of Jerusalem
had rebelled against the Pacha of Uamai^cus, and the city
was besieged by Abdalla of Akko, the Pahkid, i. e. the Pre-
sident of the Jewish Congregation, was one day in his room,
when an officer of the rebels unexpectedly entered, and
requested him to go into a private room with him, as he
had something of importance to communicate in secret.
The Pahkid rose trembling, and led him into a side-room,
when the rebel ordered him to lock the door, and, seating
himself near him, spoke as follows: "I entrust thee a
secret, and ask thy advice at the same time, because
thou art a very sensible man ;" and "indeed the Pahkid
was considered as a very intelligent man, and many sought
his counsel at every opportunity. " But know that, should
this affair be discovered, my wife* shall be prohibited to
me, if I do not take revenge on thee by taking thy life."
The terrified Pahkid then said, "I pray thee, do not com-
municate to me thy dtmgerous secret, and seek advice
from some other person." "No," replied the rebel, "none
can counsel me as well as thou ; — be still. I have observed
that we shall not be able to defend our city, and the Pacha
a present or gift, althougb it must be proportioned to the greatness of
the crime or prohibition.
* This is the greatest and holiest oath of the Mahomedan, holier asd
greater than to swear by Alia and the Nebi, since in case he violates this
oath be is not pi?rmitted to enter the hou^e where his wife resides, where-
fore she is at onec conHidered as divorced and at liberty to marry another
13 sure to take it soon. I am therefore resolved to disguise
myself and to escape bj flight, so as not to fall into the
hands of the Pacha ; but I know not in what way I shall be
able to save my money and ready means, and to carry it
securely beyond the city." To this the Pahkid replied :
" To do this there is but one way : the Armenian and
Greek convents here have strong coimexions in Constan-
tinople, and have at the same time friendly relations with
the Pacha, and have therefore nothing to dread from hos-
tilities or persecution. Carry thy money to them, take a
draft for it on Constantinople, and thou canst then receive
it back there with perfect ease and security." "Taib,
taib, taib katir" (good, good, very good), was the other's
reply. •' This is well advised. Thou seest thus that I
was right to ask thy good and sage counsel ; but, if thou
valuest thy life, keep silence, so that no one hears the
least of this." He thereupon left him. A few days after
this he brought along another dreaded rebel, and both
rushed furiously into the Pahkid's apartment. "Kelb!"
(dog) cried the first, drawing his sword, "I will murder
thee on the spot! Thou hast betrayed me, I have heard
already to-day ray intention discussed in public places,
and my whole plan is frustrated." "Chansir!" (hog)
roared out the other, placing the point of his weapon
against his breast, " I will slay thee ! Thou knewest the
whole intention of this traitor, that he would leave the
city to its fate, merely to save himself and his money, and
thou hast kept the matter a secret, and said nothing of it
to the city authorities; but all you Jews are such traitors."
Thus one cried out "betrayer," the other "traitor;" the
one threatened to kill him because he had revealed the
secret, the other because be had not. The poor Pahkid
was quite beside himself, and said, "I swear by God that
I have not spoken a word of thy busijieas ; and, as regards
thy accusation of high treason," addressing the other,
J
430
HISTOBT OF PALESTINE.
•'how could I know that his intended escape wm
tlie knowledge and consent of all the other leaders?"
They, however, pushed him about among them, nnd he
was terribly maltreated, whilst tliey swung over him their
naked weapons in a menacing manner, and the pitiable
Jew thought that his last hour was certainly come. Still
he exclaimed, "Surely I cannot Ire guilty of both charges;
I have either revealed the secret or not, hut to do both
is impossible." But they continued their l)eating a long
time, till at length the enraged Arabs made the propo-
sition that he might succeed in atoning for this twofold
crime by the payment of money ; and they then insisted
that he should - give to both parties interested a large
amount of reatly cash ou the spot, in order to repair the
injury he had done them. The Pahkid, seeing that it
was a jtlot, merely contrived to extort money, and the
whole transaction was nothing but a falsehood and base
deception, was not slow in paying over what was de-
manded, and was very thankful that nothing else had
been intended when his sage counsel was demanded, with
no other view than to find a pretext against him lor an
extortion. But he had to keep silence, as the rebels were
of the highest rank, and held even judicial appoiutnient*.
and had, consequently, everything their own way.
IC. THE FAITHSTJL
In the year 5006 (1846), when the Sheich Abd a]
Rachman was engaged in a violent contest with his bro-
thers for the government of the large district of Hebron,
Lhe brought it at la«t so far by his influence, or rather the
power of his money, that the Pacha of Jerusalem took his
part, who thereupon marched ^-ith a large body of men
against Hebron, to reinstate Abd al Kachman by force of
arms, and to make war against his Ijrothers, as also aU
the city, which had taken their part. The Pach.
M
by force of
as also all |
Pacha ii^^H
APPENDIX. 431
now earnestly urged by the consul-general in Beirut, and
the consuls in Jerusalem likewise, not to molest the Jews
at Hebron, who had joined neither party, but kept them-
selves quite neutral, and to use all possible means that
they should come to no harm at the taking of the hostile
city. The Pacha promised this faithfully, and assured
them that their recommendation should be strictly com-
plied with. Some days had now elapsed since he had
marched against Hebron, and we had received no tidings
whether he had succeeded, and that the city was taken,
or whether he had received a check from the strong party
within it, and was yet compelled to continue the siege :
when one morning we saw quite unexpectedly several
articles exposed in the streets of Jerusalem by the soldiers,
which evidently had been plundered from the Ashkenazim
at Hebron. These things consisted of clothing and furni-
ture, which were known to belong to the German Jews of
that place ; and there were even copper and tin cooking uten-
sils, to which the just prepared food yet adhered. This
then was the first evidence that we hod that the city must
already be in possession of the Pacha, since his brave
army had behaved so gallantly there. At a later hour
we learned that, on the preceding evening, the city had
been taken by assault, and that, therefore, during the
same night the plundered property had been carried
hither in all haste, since it was offered for sale by the
soldiers at break of day. The Jews of Hebron had been
grossly ill-used, beaten, and wounded ; one old man had
his hand shot off; some houses were clean plundered out ;
and it was on the whole a terrible scene which the military
enacted there in their wild licentiousness. When their
fury had abated a little, which probably was when there
was nothing more to be plundered, the magnanimous
Pacha made his appearance with his august escort in the
house of the President of the Jewish community^ to receive
I
L
H:ST0RT op PALESTINE.
hia thanks for the noble protection (perhaps for their not
having Ijeen all killed) which had l>een afforded them.
But, not satisfied with mere thanks, he asked the Jews,
or rather commanded them, to give him a written testi-
mony that tliey hiul not suffered the leaat harm; that the
noble Pacha, true to hia promise which he had made to
the conwuls, had taken them and their property under his
pattmal protection, although at the very time the stolen
property was offered publicly for sale in Jerusalem by his
faithful soldiers; and as it was sold very low, and much
under ita value, many a kind-hearted Jew here bought in
much of it, so as to be aljle to restore it afterwards to ita
impoveriahed owners. No one ventured to remonstrate
with him at this outrageous falsehood which he demanded
fi-om the Jews as a faithful testimony, when the warm
blood of the wounded was yet running before the eyes of
the tyrant, — when he yet saw the destruction which his
bloodhounds had caused. But all this was mere sport
which his brave warriors had had with the Jews, who
might therefore, nay, ought to give him an honourable
and faithful testimonial of his kiudness. lie nevertheless
had some little I'ear that the certificate given by theee
unfortunates might not for all this paint in sufficiently
bright colours the noble protection they had received ; and
in order also to spare them the trouble of writing, he had
the magnanimity to order his secretary to draw up the
required paper, in hia own style, and required of the
directors of the congregation merely to sign their names,
and they had only to pay 50 pieces of gold (1000 piastres),
OS a fee for the writing. But there was one of the managers
to whom it was impossible to subscribe this lying certifi-
cate. And why he more than the rest? From the simple
cause that he lacked the hand with which to write his
name, because it had been shot away by the infuriated
assailants. Can camiibal chiels show more beautiful ti'aits
of character ?
17. A SEQUEL TO THE
This charge of murder arose from the sudden disappear-
ance of a certain Father Thomas, who Hved there a long
time aa a Catholic priest, and it waa reported that the
Jewish congregation of that city had murdered him to
■ mingle his blood with the Passover bread, though the
festival was celebrated long after the disappearance of this
priest, wherefore his blood must have possessed a peculiar
property if it could be kept so long without being spoiled.
The torture and the tyrannical proceedings of the chief of
Damascus, Serif Pacha, which, he practised against tliat
unfta-tunate congregation, were indeed stayed by the in-
terference of the supreme authority of the state ; but as no
trace of the body of Father Thomas could ever be found,
notwithstanding the most careful and diligent search, the
suspicion that he had been made away with by the Jews
has always remained, although the fact could not be
proved.
About four years later, a Christian boy at Alexandria,
who had been seen for the last time at the house of a
Jewish merchant, suddenly disappeared. As may be ex-
pected, the suspicion fell again on the poor Jews, that they
had murdered him according to their custom; and the
consequence was nearly a riot of the Christians of Alex-
andria against the Jews, But the tolerant Mahmud Ali
Pacha interfered hy force of arms, and protected the un-
fortunate. To pacify, however, in a certain degree, the
excited Christians, and since a suspicion waa attached to
the Jews, because the boy had been last seen in the house
of one of them, he ordered them to use all possible efforts
to trace him out ; set them a long term when they should
be held to answer the charge against them ; and gave
them all possible protection to carry on the investigation
i
I
L
434 uisn)BT or palkstikb.
ID every direction. The Jews were nevertheless in the
greatent perplexity, a« the problem was a most difficult
and iniportaut one to discover the lost boy. They had
theretbre recourse to the power of money, the potent
general solvent, and they pFotnised a large reward to any
one who should produce to them the missing child. And
they were actually right in this mode of proceeding ; for &
compaesiunate young man, one of the rioters, who pitied
the hard fate of the unfortunate Jews, after he had heard
of the large prize offered by them, promised to deliver
them from their dilemma, in order to obtain the reward.
He only rer]uired a few sensible men among the Jews aa
alBo a few meu as a guard for his protection to accompany
him, and then set out on his search. When be had come to
a Greek convent at a considerable distance from Alexan-
dria, he said, " Here is the boy, as he has been taken
under the protection of the holy and pious fathers." It,
however, required a great deal of trouble and stratagem to
get the boy to come out of tlie precincts of the convent,
which, however, the young man at last succeeded in by
the address with which he entrapped the priests ; and as
Boon OS the boy was outside, he was at once firmly de-
tained by the escort. But it would not have answered
any good purpose to employ force; since these saints
were fully capable to murder the boy and conceal his
body sooner than let the innocence of the Jews be proved.
In brief, however, the boy was delivered up to the Jews
in Alexandria perfectly sound and well; and every one
was thus clearly and fully convinced that the whole was
nothing but a wicked contrivance to have a pretext to
torture and persecute the helpless Jews. What a com-
mentary this on the conduct of the servants of the sole
saving church ! The young man then obtained the pro-
mised reward, when he said, " O ye unskilful Jews I give
me a greater prize, and I will procure you the body oi" the
APPENDIX.
long-since-consumed Father Thomas of Damascus, fat and
sleek as lie was years ago." But the poor Jews were glad
enough in the happy finding of the boy, not to retjuire the
reproduction of the other party, and for fear of stirring up
the nearly forgotten affair, they left it untouched, although
they were greatly blamable for so doing.
When I learned these particulars at a later period,
I took all the paina possible to reveal this mystery to the
world. But I could not succeed, from varioua causes ; first,
because I could not be on the spot, Alexandria; and
secondly, and this more especially on account of the very
large sum which the discoverer demanded, which he did
probably, because he would in all likelihood not have Ijeen
safe any longer in the country, and in every other place
else where he would have come in contact with monk or
friar, who might have been interested in the business;
and he was therefore compelled in a measure to demand
enough means to procure himself an asylum abroad. This
flagitious act was therefore passed over with indifference,
and remains a mystery to the world.
18. THE PABSOVEB SACRinCB fl^B pTp AMONG THE SAMABITA.NB,
THK ANCIENT CUTHEAN8 OF 2 KINGS XVII.
This is not the place to speak circumstantially of the
whole nature of this sect ; and I only mention a striking
and remarkable ceremony which they practise, namely,
the passover sacrifice. In the month of Nissan, but not
on a certain and fixed day, they all assemble, little and
great, on their holy Mount Gerlzzim, not far from Nablus
(Shechem). At present these people are only found in
that city ; but some hundreds of years ago they had also
a large congregation at Cairo, as I derive from a work of
the celebrated Ben Zimra (Radbaz f"3Tl). They bring
out a sheep, which is slain by their ecclesiastical chief,
i
4
I
4
I
k
1
436 BISTORT OF PALESTINE.
whom they call "ther high priest" Sn^H |.TD. They
then dig a pit, in whirh they make a fire, and it is then
covered over with sticka of wood ; and on these the entire
sheep is laid without being opened, with skin aud hair,
and thus roasted, or rather nearly burnt; and when it i«
suflicientiy done, they all seize it like hungrj' wolves, and
consume it, each one endeavouring to get something from
this holy meal. They often get to fights and blows in so
doing, and this ceremony will give ub some idea of their
entire practical religious life, since they allege that thus
they fulfil the behest of the law in Exodus xii. 9. Aud
can they really call ihU a family feast, nauseous as it is,
and a token of which is carried off in welts on their bajcks,
faces scratched, and bleeding noses? And neverthele«8 the
Cutheans call themselves the true and actual Israelites,
who atone live strictly according to the laws of the Holy
Scriptures, and assert that they alone have the proper and
correct interpretation of the law, whereas they call UB
ignorant in all this.
I have to remark something which strikes me as peca-
liar among them. They call God Aahima, and they use
this term whenever the name of God is to be pronounced
in the Bible or their speech. But this word Ashims
occurs in 2 Kings xvii. 30, aa the idol of the men of
Chamath (not of the Cuthean.'^, who worshipped Nergal),
which first was, according to Talmud Sauhedrin, 63 b, in
the shape of a goat. The modem Cutheans are, howcvw,
of a mixed class, as they employ an image resembling a
bird, much like a dove (see ChuHn, 6 o), which is carved
of wood, and put on the top of their rolls of the law
which are written in the Syriac (Samaritan character),
and out of which they read a short passage every Sabbath
somewhat af^r the fashion of our modem reformers. The
just-cited passage of the Talmud avers that Nergal, tJie
idol of the Cutheans, was a cock, a bird, therefore, having
APPENDIX. 4S7
nothing in common with the goat; and as nevertheless
the Samaritans use the word Ashima, which denoted the
goat, the idol of the CamatheanB, it proves that they are
of a mixed descent, and not pure Cutheana merely.
19. THE ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS OF THE MAH0HEDAN9 TN JERUSALEM
Are in a most miserable condition, and it is easy to de-
duce therefrom the degree of the sciences and cultivation
which prevails there. They present to the enlightened
man, especially if he should have visited the schools in civi-
lized countries, or still more if he has been educated there,
a most striking and melancholy spectacle. In many
streets you will find small, damp, and dark cellars, having
no windows, and in which the light is only admitted
through the door, which always stands open. In these there
is spread on the floor a large, miserable straw mat, and on
this are seen sitting, with their legs bent under them, in
a circle, ten to fifteen boys, from five to twelve or even
fifteen years old. In the middle stands a teacher with
a long stick. Nearly every boy has liefore him a small
wooden board, on which are drawn a few Arabic letters ;
and in this manner do they receive the rudiments of their
education, which actually amounts to no more than a very
little knowledge of reading and writing the Arabic; where-
fore you will find but few citizens here who are able to
read and write their native language.* Whoever, now, is
able to do this is considered as belonging to the higher
classes. The chief object of the education in the schools
here described is to teach the scholars to say by heart the
formula of prayers, or rather to sing them, as they are
nearly all recited in a singing tone. You can hear even
* And there are therefore in man; streets email ghops, in which uw
seated learned persons, who form » sort of Arabic writing office, where
any one can be served for a compensation, in case he wants Arabic read-
ing and writing done.
438 HISTORY OF PALESTINE.
at a great distance the tumultuous and loud shrieking c
these boys. One thing is quite curious to remark, that
all these boys, as well at tlieir prayers aa their other ex-
ercises, keep up a constant shaking backward and forward,
as is often done by our Jews when praying or studying.
This habit is also observed in adult Mahomedans during
their devotions, and it appears therefore that it must be
an old oriental custom.
It may readily be imagined that the teachers themselves
have no necessity for any high scientific aud moral culti-
vation, in order to impart the required amount of instruc-
tion ; and I can assure the reader that I have met in these
insUtudons with teachers who were quite blind or other-
wise crippled ; and it would appear tliat if such au untbrtu-
nate being is no longer able to earn his bread by begg;ing in
the public streets, he endeavours to accomplish this by
becoming a teacher. I even found these schools kept in
a large cellar, so to say, a vault, in the middle of which
there is a Wely, or the monument of a saint, a pious der-
vish, or of a sheich. The scholars sit, or rather lie
around this grave, and obtain their education, as a me~
mento mor't. The constant loud cries of these boys once
excited my curiosity as I was passing by, to see what it all
meant, and I looked through a small window into the
place whence the sounds issued. I can assure the reader
that a shuddering seized me at what I saw. A damp,
heated atmosphere, an almost sepulchral odour, rose to-
wards the spot where I was standing, and I could hardlv
observe the scholars, as my stepping up to the window
had deprived them of the only light which they had. f
could not prevail on myself to remain a few mmntes even
to take a closer observation of this most dreary- school-
room, and for my own part I would rather stay in a
common stable, than in this subterranean, frightful school,
held in the receptacle of the dead. Is it Ihen wonderful
, APPENDIX. 439
that these Mahomedans are so far behind the Europeans 7
whence are they to learn anything of scientific culture ?
Their reading is confined to the written Koran, since
printed books, which come fix)m Kafers only, from unbe-
lievers, are held in no esteem by them. To show what idea
of geography they have, I may state that a very learned
dervish, who had made many journeys, told me that he had
travelled from Sudan (Central Africa), in a few weeks by
land to the East Indies, as they are not far from each other.
The Mahomedan in general ridicules the European,
that he displays so much interest for such stupid and use-
less stufil If he sees a foreign scholar or traveller show-
ing some curiosity in behalf of a scientific subject, or
making a measurement, a calculation, or a drawing, he ex-
claims, in a tone of derision, " Eeida muahnem^' — he is mad.
They tell me often that they can have no idea, what in-
terest such things can have for any man, that he should
make long and distant voyages by sea and land, to obtain
information of such nonsensical subjects. What can I
answer them ? Shall I give an idea of colours to one who
is bom blind ? an explanation of sounds to one bom deaf,
of which he can form no conception ? One can say with
truth of the Mahomedans with Solomon, " I say that an
untimely birth is better than he. For he cometh in with
vanity, and departeth in darkness, and his name shall be
covered with darkness." (Eccles. vi. 3, 4.)
20. THE COFFEE-HOUSE, KAFFANE, IN JERUSALEM.
It is perhaps not entirely uninteresting to read a de-
scription, or sketch rather, of an oriental coffee-house, aa
this will give us also some idea of the state of civilization
among the Mahomedans. Ne.ar the Bazaar, which is at
present used as a corn-market, on the comer of the Zhik^
the market where there are shops for various kinds of
440 HISTOKY OF PALESTINE.
goods, standi a large and old building, through whid
there is a pasaage-way, which, as it passes through a
number of houses, shortens the distance considerably to
pedestrians, as it enables them to dispense with a long
circuit on the outside. This passage forms also the coffee-
house in question, though it is in a very miserable con-
dition. It is, at the same time, a lai^e and very old
structure, resembling greatly a ruined church, has a high
cupola, and pillars and boxes on both sides. In the
centre is a hearth, on which there stand large copper urns
filled with boiling coffee. Close to them sits the landlord
squatting on the ground, who has near him a quantity of
very small coffee-cups, piled up one on another, and a row
of the so-called argil^.* as also a pair of iron fire-tongs,
called masha, with which he is ready to serve every one
that smokes with a burning coal. Ou the sides are a sort
of benches, which are covered with narrow straw mats, and
which serve the guests as seats. The passage is so narrow,
that those who pass through often knock the coffee-cup
out of the guest's hand, and not ran.'ly scald thus both lips
and chin, or crush with their feet the pipe-bowl of some
smoker ; or it happens that the passer-by is thrown down
through means of the long tube, which gets entangled
between his feet or legs, and pulls down to the ground
at the same time the smoker from his elevated seat. All
this causes naturally many curious scenes. In the comer
of a side-box sit usually some Arnaut soldiers, playing
draughts and dice, with looks and gestures well calculated
to excite the fears of the bystanders. The games often
cause them to quarrel and fight among themselves, and
thus all present are in danger of their hves.
• ThiB is a tobaceo-pipe, to which is fitted a vessel contaiDiDg water,
through which the smoke is iJriven, before it reaehea the mouth, bj
means of an elastic tube, rolled up in a toil, several yards in lengtji.
This produces a coustaut bubbling and boiling uoiae in the wal
smolcing-
In the background you hear the neighing of a wild
horae, the bleating of a sheep or a goat, and the braying
of an ass, which some of the guests have brought along with
them J and thus the cofiee-house serves also as a sort of
stable, and the landlord acts as hostler, taking care of man
and beast in the same moment. At the entrance there is
hung up in a bag a very young child, perhaps but a few
months old, screaming with all its might, being left there
by its faithful mother, an industrious Bedouin woman,
whilst she attends to her business in the market, and
wishes to spare herself the trouble to carry it in her arms.
Near the door, on the bare earth, sleeps a tired Bedouin,
covered like the drunken Noah in liis tent, with his face
turned to the ground, and who attracts the attention of all
present by the harmonious sounds which he makes in his
sleep. On the other side lies a small hillock of charcoal,
from which the fire is fed, and on which sits a Bedouin
woman with her dear half-naked boys. The attention
bestowed on the guest« is very simple, and is confined
to coffee without milk or sugar, the argil^s, and at most a
glass of cold water in addition. In the month of fasting,
the Rhamadahn, this passage, as is also the Kaffan^, re-
mains closed during the day, as a token of penitence and
fasting; but during the whole night it is so thoroughly
crowded that one is scarcely able to squeeze his way
through. The other parts of the year it is closed at sun-
down.
The KaflFan6 answers also as an exchange, and many a
trade is driven there between the Arabs and Bedouins.
If we now cast a look on and contemplate the most for-
lorn condition in every respect of the Holy City, we cannot
avoid asking with the prophet, " Is this the city of which
they said, She is the perfection of beauty, the joy of all
the earth?" (Lam. ii. 15.) For all that, this very mise-
rable condition is the greatest consolation the behever can
I
I
I
442 uisTORT or Palestine.
have, " for the word of our God will stand for eyenafitrng."
(Isa. si. 8.) And we see quite clearly that his words are
being fulfilled when he said, "As I have brought over this
people all this evil, thus will I bring over them all the good
which I have spoken concerning them." (Jer. xxxii, 42.)
*' For the Lord hath comfort«»d Zion, he hath comforted all
her waste places, and maketh her deserts like Eden, and
her plain like a garden of the Lord ; joy and gladness are
found there, tlianksgiving and the voice of eong." (Isa. li. 3.)
21. TDK DERVISQES, BA1NT8, BIIEICR8.
I will now give a brief description of this singular class
of men. The proper meaning of the word Dervish is
an innocent, who, so to say, knows notliing which haa
the least traces of wrong and injustice, and is therefore
quite childlike. The main business of the Dervishes is
praying and preaching; and thus you will frequeiitly see
and hear them in public places and the open streets,
teaching the people morals with a loud voice. Their ex-
terior is by no means inviting, their whole dress conBisting
of a long and loose shirt, which is very dirty, not liaving
been washed perhaps for a year, over which they have a
broad leathern girdle or rope; and add to this a cudgel in
their hand, and you liave the attire of this class. Their
feet are bare, their head is uncovered, and many have
their hair hanging down in a disordered, wild state on
their back, and a long beard ; and they thus present more
the aspect of terror than sanctity. Their second business is
begging; and many gather for themselves, under holy pre-
tences, a considerable quantity of money. They are re-
garded by the faithful as though they possessed a superior
power, and knew future events. Some few holy (i. e. un-
intelligible) words written by them on a bit of paper are
said to guard the possessor agamst all things, though
Burely not against superstition and stupidity. The manner
iPFENDIX. 443
of their devotion is very curious, and has much in common
with the ancient followers of Baal, as stated in 1 Kings
xviii. 28. They utter fearful sounds by producing a
rattling noise with throat and breast, so that often the
blood runs out of their mouth ; besides, they keep up an
uninterrupted moving backward and forward, till at length
they fall down on the ground quite exhausted, in entire
unconsciousness. Near my dwelling lives such a dirty,
miserable saint, and I am often disturbed half the night
through by his edifying devotion ; but he has in addition
a sort of tambourine, which he strikes, and this pleasant
music forms a glorious harmony with his frightful rattling
and guttural noise.
Their food is said to be most miserably limited, if a
person might depend on their own assertion; but their
looks by no means confirm this ; and let no one therefore
believe that their abstemiousness is real; the whole is
mere deception and mere outward appearance, assumed to
, obtain thereby the means of support. But little confidence
can be reposed in them. Many of them are nothing else
than hypocrites, deceivers, and rogues; and you meet
among them real wits, who, when they find a person who
understands them, say distinctly that, as they have no
occupation, they make it their business to point out to the
world the way to heaven. One came to my door to beg,
with snow-white beard and hair, and actually represented
an old man ; but I soon discovered that it was a deception,
and that the hair was only dyed, he being a young and
active fellow.
It is now some years since a respectable Mahomedan
died at Damascus; he had a large funeral procession,
which was preceded by two Sheichs, quite naked, without
any covering whatever. These were to represent the
image of innocence, and therefore were to appear thus as
444
the first p
HISTORT OF PALESTINE.
1 Paradise, without shame. What a reli^ous
t
t pair m 1
seutiiiient !
They are also wouderful physicians. I saw once in the
public street a sick woman whom a holy Sheich endea-
voured to cure by wonder-working prayers and conjurar
tions, whilst he made a terrible smoke with a panful of
coals, on which he sprinkled some spices.
Stupid and simple as this class of men appear to be,
they still are not rarely enabled to deceive the worshipful
Pachas and other state officers. It is now some years past
when a very holy Dervish revealed to the Pacha of Jeru-
salem, having had a prophetic vision, that a great treasure
was buried near the pool of Burak, The Pacha imme-
diately sent thither some troop.s, and they dug deep with
might and main to discover the hidden treasure ; but the
prophet had in the mean time escaped, and like that for
which they dug, remained invisible thereafter.
In the same manner they dug, several years back, by
order of the Pacha, near the hot spring of Tiberias, upon
the assertion of a holy Sheich, to find there a lump of
gold. But there seems to have been an error in the pro-
phetic knowledge of this saint, since instead of the gold
they only found a large stone.
22. HOW THE MAHOMEDANS VISIT AL CBARIM.
In addition to the usual hours of devotion, especially mi
Friday, the Charim is visited on three difierent occasions,
to wit;
1. At a marriage, which, however, only takes place in
the evening; the young people about to be married are
placed under a species of tent made of Unen, which resem-
bles an inverted chest, and you can only see the feet of
those who are under it. This canopy is carried by slaves,
and those who are thus protected have to measure their
APPENDIX 44&
steps by those of the bearers, and are thus in a measure
dragged along. Alongside of these slaves walk others
with lighted torches made of pitch ; then follows a man
playing on a large kettle-drum, accompanied by several
who play on a species of bagpipe, the shriU and braying
tones of which are extremely offensive to the ear. Next
follow the friends and relatives of the bride ajid groom,
and after them a tumultuous mass of men and boys, young
and old, all mixed up together, the shouting of whom is
heard nearly all over the city. In this manner the pre-
cession moves on to Al Charim, where several religious
ceremonies are performed, and some prayers recited, and
after about half an hour, they return home as they came.
2. At a funeral, which is for us a most mournful and
afflictive ceremony. Says the prophet Jeremiah, vii. 30 :
^^ They have placed their abominations in the house on
which my name is called, to contaminate it ;" and (ibid,
xvi. 13), " With the carcass of their abominations and
detestable things they have filled my inheritance." The
corpse is placed in a coffin, and is accompanied by the
firiends and relatives. Dervishes, pious Sheichs, several of
whom carry long palm-branches, and many other persons,
and is thus carried forward amidst continual humming,
and prayers half chaunted in a deep and low voice. Often-
times I could hear only " Hu Alia," He is God ; and the
whole prayer consists of nothing but these two words,
which are repeated innumerable times. In this way the
funeral proceeds to Al Charim, where the coffin is placed
on a stone destined for this purpose, and after some
prayers are recited, it is carried for interment without
the city.
3. At a circumcision. This ceremony has no fixed time
as to the age of the boy, only that it must take place
before he is thirteen years old, which was the age of
Ishmael at the time of his circumcision (Gen. xvii. 25).
446 niSTOBT OF Palestine.
The boy, and often several at once, are ga
with all possible ornaments, and seated upon a horse like-
wise caparisoned, and led through the city accompaBied
by a large concourse of people, on which occasion the
magnificent kettle-drum and the sweet bagpipes must not
be wanting. At length Al Charim is reached, when, after
the recital of some prayers, the procession returns home,
where the operation is perfonned, generally by a barber.
Nearly the whole following week, till tlie wound is healed,
they have merry-making and feasting in the house of the
circumcised both day and night. The circumcision is,
however, but imperfectly performed, and by no means
after the Jewish fashion ; wherefore the Mahomedans can
well be called " the uncircumcised circumcised," and I
would apply to them the prophecy of Jeremiah ix. 24:
nS"iy3 SlO Sd hy ^r\-i]iii\ properly rendered,
will visit on all the uncircumcised circumcised."
'Aiid^_
I
23. THE QHEEN COLOUR AMONO THE MAHOMEDANS.
According to a tradition of theirs, the green colour is
considered holy among the Mahomedans. Only Serife
(saints), and especially those who have made the holy
pilgrimage to Mekka, are allowed to wear a green turbim
and a green cloak ; but this is strictly interdicted to any
other, esi^cially to a non-Mislamin, and is considered as
an infringement on their religion, and as blasphemy, and
therefore severely punished. For this reason they call
the prophet Elijah " Al Chatr," the Green ; and the spot
where be is said to have shown himself, according to their
tradition, is also called "Al Chatr." It is now some years
ago that a highly respected English lord was ill-treated
in the public street of Constantinople, because the pioiLs
believers observed that he wore green pantaloons. Soon
after my arrival in Jerusalem, my mother-in-law stood
APPENDIX. 447
one day near the door of my house^ when suddenly a
furious Mahomedan rushed upon her with a drawn dagger,
and she was only able to escape the deadly weapon by a
precipitate flight. Her offence was, that she wore for her
head-dress a green shawl.
But of late they are not so particular any more, thanks
to the enlightened policy of Mahmud Ali, of Egypt ; still
it would not be advisable to appear even now with a green
garment, if one would not desire to be exposed to a brutal
persecution on the part of some fanatical Arab.
APPENDIX,
WMTLAXKniQ MAVT MAMM OV OOUmOSy VAnOira» «OWlia» OUT Of PAUHfm,
oooum in TKi aoLT sommuBBs, urn nr nn talmudio wmimcw, or wnoM
SAYB HimsKTo mnuimiD quits OBtoinUy buv noos&ionT uonjuanniy €»
SAYB muAunu) avm mnoioini.
I COMMENCE with the descendants of Noah enumerated
m the Scriptures, m Genesis x., and 1 ChronicleB i., and
explain at the same time the various commentaries aad
Targumim, such as Qnkelos, Jonathan, Saadiah, to these
names ; also the views of the Talmud and of the various
Midrashim concerning the same.
^^ The sons of Japhet were Gomer, Magog, Madai^ Javan,
Tubal, Meshech, and Tiras." (Gen. x. 2.) Jonathan ben
Uziel, by the by, not the same who translated the pro-
phets, explains these names with ♦non KUO^W Kpn£)M
AFRICA Kp'nDX.
It appears very strange to translate Gomer with Africa^
since it is well known that this part of the world was
peopled by the descendants of Ham, as I will prove here-
after, but not through Gomer, the son of Japhet. There
is also a curious narrative in Talmud Tamid, 32 a^ that
Alexander of Macedon, consulted the wise men of the
south ^Jjrr ^ypU ^hat is, those of Lod (see page 134, article
Lod), as to the best manner in which he could reach
Africa, but that these represented to him the difficulty
and the almost impossibility of the expedition, since the
" dark mountains" ^tfff] nn were in his way. This surely
APPENDLX. 4W
eamtot refefto Africa proper; tecause Alexander had
Ijeen there, prior to tliat time, when he conquered Egypt,
before he marched to Syria, and couflequently had no
necessity to inquire alxiiit the way aud the means of
getting thither; neither do we find any dark mountains
between Palestine and Egypt.
This would seem to indicate clearly that another Africa
is meant here; and it is now our busineps to solve this
difficult question, and tti ascertain its wheroabouta; but I
believe that I have ascertained it, ai'ter taking all possible
pains to aid me in the di«covcry.
I will cite, for this purpose, several passages irom the
short history of Josephna written in the Hebrew* lan-
guage [and known as Josippon]. At the conclusion of
the twelfth chapter he relates, " Thence, i. o. the country
of the Amazons, where women bear the nde, Alexander
pui-sued hia route three days farther, when he came to a
very dark district. Thence he moved into the land of
Karaa and Kariksam DDp'IpT B'^DJ which already be-
longed to the kingdom of Perwia." bi the ninety-sixth
chapter he says (aa is also stated in his Bell. Jud. b. vii,
c. 27), " that, at the time of Titus, the Roman emperor,
there lived a people in the mountains of Ararat D"nN called
the AUaimi. This people being compelled to emigrate, by a
* AUbougli there ejcists a general doubt coDoernuig this book, that it
tras written bj the celebrated Joacphus FluvJus, sinee it contuiiis so many
contradictions to htg great work, and embranca, moreover, tnnuy uarrativoB
and atoripH wkioh can scarcely be ascribed to Joaephna : etill, we tuivw
that this leumoU ninn ulso wrote a history in thv Hebrew language for
his own nution, us appears clearly from the preface to his Antiipitics. It
is certainly very doubtful whether it be the one we liuve still in our pos-
session or not; nevertheless, we can use much of it as a credible auxiliary,
to explain, by this means, the names of many Innda, towns, nations, 4o. ;
and shonld even the historical part, the narrative rl«elf, he doubted or
called in question for various reasoDs, the DomeDclaturc remains, notwitli-
Btandiug all this, reliable and eurreot.
450 APPENDIX
severe famine, as they were not able to find enough to live
on in their own country, left their mountain fastnesses, in
which, as they maintained, they had been inclosed by
Alexander, and turned to the land of Midian, and plun-
dered every place whither they came. The king of Ararat
went out to battle against them ; and when Titus heard
this, he resolved to undertake a war against this people,
the AUauni." From all this it is evident that the ancient
territory of the Amazons, and the dark mountains, must
be sought for only in the mountainous country of Ararat,
not far from Circassia (Kirkassia), consequently in the
northern portions of Syria.
The Taurus mountain is, as is imiversally known, a
very high, and at one time almost an inaccessible chain,
80 that in olden days it was almost considered impossible
to cross it to the opposite side ; and it was necessary to
seek a passage through its gorges and narrow passes,
which might be regarded almost as subterranean chan-
nels, with the greatest labour and no inconsiderable dan-
ger; and as the sunlight was naturally excluded from
these gorges, clefts, and passes by the high and steep
mountain peaks and rocks, they are quite dark and
dreary ; and hence, there can be no doubt, arises the ap-
pellation of the " dark mountains" "IB^n nn, as they are
called in Zohar to Behaalotecha, folio 148, (n*lp) HID
")trn nn on CD^nN " The mountains of Kardo (Ararat)
are the dark mountains." It says farther to Num. xxii.
23, pnpN Dnp mn ^trn mo, "the dark mountains
mean the eastern mountains ;" which phrase embraces also
all those situated north of Palestine, since all Sjnia, Aram,
the Euphrates, and Pethor lirifl, though all north, are
called Dip the East, and hence the mountains are styled
^' the eastern ones." This, therefore, was meant by the wise
men of the South, that, on his way to Africa, the dark
mountains of the Taurus range would oppose obstacles to
APPENDIX. 451
his advance^ since he could pursue no other road than that
which leads through its dark defiles and passes.
We have now to look for our Africa beyond the Taurus,
and I think that I may maintain with certainty, that,
under the name of Africa, the ancients understood the
country and provinces which were situated beyond the
fearful and high mountains of Taurus ; and we find, at
this day, in the district called Arabkir* (?), the town of
Devrighi (Devrikioi), which has a strong trace of the
name Africa in it. In the Greek and Eoman period this
district was called Cappadocia.
As a farther support of my view, let the following suf-
fice. We read in Yerushalmi Baba Meziah ii., Bereshith
Rabbah xxxiii., and Vayikra Kabbah xxvii., that Alex-
ander of Macedon came into the land of the king of Kizia ;
and in Midrash Talkut Tehillim xxxvi., the same is told
with the addition, " behind the dark mountains." This
Kizia is undoubtedly the Kizica (?), the later Kezina
(Gizenenica?) in Pontus, not far from the Black Sea, men-
tioned in Josephus's Antiquities, book xiii., ch. 17(?). In
the above-cited passage of Vayikra Babbah it is said,
" the kingdom of the women was in Cartagina," which is
an incorrect reading, and should be " Caragina," to wit,
Charachin6 (?).
All this, therefore, proves clearly that all these countries
and nations, mentioned in the expedition of Alexander,
were in the north of Asia Minor. »
To the northeast of the just-mentioned district of Dev-
* In the books and maps accessible to the translator, he finds the dis-
trict called RouMf and the town has the name Devrikioi, and is situated
in latitude 39^ 14', longitude 88*^ 16' east of Greenwich. But may not the
Targum allude to Phrygia thus, A-phry-ki, especially if we consider that
the Rabbins often commence words with k a as a superfluous letter ? for
example, Aktispun, Cesiphon ; Aspamia, Spain ; and that the final a ig
but a Greek termination, and is not a part of the root ? To reach Phrygia
from Palestine, mountains have to be passed.
452 ^ APPENDIX.
righi commences the country of Circassia; and I think
that this name retains a trace of Girgashi, since, accord-
ing to the assertion of the Midrsfih, this Canaanitic nation
emigrated to Africa^ and settled there (before the arrival
of the Israelites under Joshua), and Circassia is not far
from the supposed ancient Africa of the Rabbins. It is
also said farther in Sanhedrin 94 a, that the Ten Tribes
were partly banished to Africa ; and, according to £cha
Rabbethi, to ch. i. 13, they took their route, when they
wandered into exile, through Armenia. This also agrees
closely with my hypothesis, that we must seek for this
Africa in Armenia.
The above Karas of Josippon appears to me to be that
at a later period called Karzan (Charzan), the capital of
which was Colchian, on the River Usis. I believe that
this is referred to in the 16th chapter of Rabbi Nathan,
when saying that Rabbi Akiba travelled to KlHIp K'SlDK
Achulia of Kurza, to wit, the town Golchian in Charzan ;
since we find that Rabbi Akiba often journeyed to the
northern countries, for instance Galatia (see farther arti-
cle Gallia) and Africa, as we are told in Rosh Hashanah,
26 a.
It is, therefore, sufficiently proved that there was a
second or northern Africa, which is also mentioned in
Yerushalmi Shebiith ix., and which was peopled by the
sons of Japhet, whilst the Africa of the south belonged
to the sons of Ham, as is said in Sanhedrin, 91 a, " that
Africa was peopled by the sons of Canaan, who was a son
of Ham ;" wherefore, then, there is every reason to con-
clude that the country occupied, according to Jonathan,
by Gomer, was the northeastern portion of Asia Minor.
Josephus, Antiquities, b. i., ch. 7, explains Gomer with
Galatia, also a northern territory, not far from the sup-
posed Africa (Devrighi); which, therefore, also agrees
with Jonathan. See also Jos., Antiq., b. xviii., ch. 6,
APPENDIX. 453
which agrees with my opinion relative to the " dark moun-
tains."
There was also, it is true, another district in the north
called Phrygia, of which I shall speak hereafter, the name
of which strongly resembles Africa, wherefore they might
be deemed identical ; but I do not deem this hypothesis
so well founded, and more hazardous, and must insist that
my views already given are more reliable and correct.
OERMANIA. M'JDIJ
As late as the middle ages, there stood in the Taurus
mountains, on the western bank of the Euphrates, a town
called Germania. The environs of Tarshish, the modem
Tarsus (which see), were also formerly called Carama-
nia. Even at the present day, there is the town of Cara-
man, west of Tarsus, and between it and Konieh. It
must, therefore, not be taken for Germany or Ashkenaz,
of which we shall treat hereafter.
It is curious that Jonathan should render Magog
with Germania, whilst all other commentators so render
Gomer.
In Yoma, 10a, it is said, "Magog is Kandia," K^ljp,
which is, without doubt, an incorrect reading, since Kan-
dia is a much later name than the time of the Talmud
for the island of Crete, also called Telechina, and could
therefore not have been known to the Talmudists as Kan-
dia. Accordingly, I am certain that it should read KHlp
Kudia ; and we actually do find this reading very nearly,
K^niJ Guthia for Kudia, in YerushaJmi Megillah i., and
the Targum to 1 Chronicle i. 5 (?) . In the Russian lan-
guage Gittai signifies China, and the Nankeen cloth (a
species of cotton goods) is also called Gittai, because it
comes from China ; and I would derive this name from
Katcheou, a river and district of China ; which country I
. therefore presume is meant under Kudia, Guthia (Kan-
dia), and to be understood by Magog.
%'
4&4 iPFENDIX.
Joseph.^ Antiq., b. i., ch. vi., explains Magog with Scythia,
a people which formerly was scattered over Sjnria. They
heldy a long time, possession of Beth-Shean^ and hence it
was called Scythopolis.
HABfDui; "non
i. e. Media; and even at the present day there is in
Kurdistan the town of Hamdan (Hammadan), the ancient
Ecbatana, which is, according to the tradition of the Jews,
the ancient Shushan of Esther i. 2. They point out there
the monument of Queen Esther and Mordecai, which is a
magnificent buildmg, in which there is at the same tune a
S3rnagogue. I presume that Hamdatha^ the father of
Haman (ib. iii. 1), was bom in this town, whence he ob-
tained his name. In Ezra vi. 2, it is called Knontt Ach-
metha. In Yoma 10a, it is said: KJHpO It ♦nO "Madai
is Makduna," which does not mean Macedonia in Greece,
but the ancient district of Mikdunia, in Mesopotamia,
which was reckoned as belonging to Media. So also does
Josephus, Antiq., b. xx., ch. ii., say, that in the neighbour-
hood of Nisibis there stood formerly the town of Antiochia,
which was also called Mukdania, because it had been built
and was inhabited by Macedonians. This Antiochia must
not be mistaken for either of the other two of the same
name, of which we shall treat farther down.
MAKEDONIA. K'^jnpO
This means Macedonia, which borders on Morea, in
Greece. In Yerushalmi Megillah i., it is said j<%*7 TV
DDIM " Javan is Uses;" and in Targum to 1 Chron. i. 5, the
reading is DIDOIM Ubesos, which I suppose to be the an-
cient and celebrated city of Ephesus, in Anatolia. Its
ruins are still to be seen, a day's journey south of Smyrna.
viTHiNiA. N^rn'i
The same version for Tubal is given in Yerushalmi Me- .
APPENDIX. 455
gillah and Targum to Chronicles. I suppose that reference
is made to Bithinia or Asia Minor (Anatolia), the V only
being substituted for B. In Yoma 10 a, the reading is
Kp^UlJi no Beth Uneika, doubtless Bith-inicia, Tc being as
usual put for c [as Okionos for Oceanus] ; as Bithinia is
sjnionymous with Bith-inicia.
Josephus, Antiq., b. i., ch. vi., translates Tubal with Ibe-
rians. Some suppose that Tobolsk in Siberia (northern
Russia) is derived from Tubal, who, as it is said, settled
there.
The other commentators read K*D10 Musia, which is,
however, all the same, viz., Mysia, since Mysia, Lydia,
and Phrygia, are all denoted under the general term of
Asia (Minor), whence afterwards the whole eastern quar-
ter of the globe was termed Asia. I take, therefore, Usia
(Usaiah) to stand for Asia.
Josephus, Antiq., b. i., ch. vi., explains Meshech with
Cappadocia, also in Asia Minor (Anatolia) .
THABKI, 'pTn
Refers probably to Turkestan in Tartary, whence the
Turks emigrated, at a later period, to the west. Or, per-
haps, we should be empowered to understand by this term
Thracia (Thrace, exchanging as above h for c, and read
Theraki), in Asia Minor (Anatolia) ; and indeed Josephus
explains Thiras with Thracia. In Yoma and Yerushalmi
Megillah, it is rendered Persia by some authorities.
Saadiah translates, in his Arabic version, as follows :
Gomer with Al Tharak, probably Turkestan; Magog
with Al Agog ; Madai with Al Madath ; Javan with Al
Aliunani, " the Hellenists, Greeks," as we also read in Ye-
rushalmi Sota (?) vii. pnDUlSx j;0t5^ ^^'^"yp " They read
the Shemang in the Greek language {JElonisthi/n);' Tubal
with Al Ziz, which is imquestionably an error, and should
456 APPENDIX.
be pV Zin, i. e. China^ which is so called in ancient works,
as in the book Kusari; Meshech with Al Krasan, a Per-
sian province^ Khorassan^ in which there is to this day the
large city of Charasan^ in which there live many and re-
spectable Jews. It is now about twenty years since the
Persians attacked them, plundered their property, and
slew many of their number, and drove away the remainder,
so that at present no Jews whatever live there. Thiras
he gives with Al Pars, Persia.
Some suppose that Gomer signifies the Crimea, Hie pe-
ninsula of the Black Sea.
" And the sons of Gomer were Ashkenaz, Riphath, and
Togarmah ;" which Jonathan* renders with plD*lfl1 M^^DK
A8IYA. «"D«
See article Usia, p. 466 ; it appears, therefore, that, ac-
cording to Jonathan, Meshech and Ashkenaz denote the
same territory, since both are explained by Asia.
Josephus, in his Antiquities, says : " Ashkenaz are those
called by the Greeks Rhegenians," which term is unknown
to me.
PHAROHEVAN, pO^D
Stands probably for Phargavan or Phargaun, which is
Phrygia, in Asia Minor. To Phrygia belonged Phricia,
Pararius, Isaoria, and Diallus. Josephus says Riphath
signifies Paphlagonia in Anatolia.
BARBARIA, Kn313
Is probably to be looked for in North Africa, the mo-
* This explanation is probably that of the Yerusalem Targum, which
however, is the same with Jonathan, only that in the copies of the men
of Jerusalem there were found different readings in this version, and they
were hence designated as the Targum Yerushalmi [which appears as a
firagmentary work in our usual editions].
APPENDIX, 457
dem coast of Barbary. In Siphri to Deut. xxxii. it is said,
^^In Tunis, Barbaria, and Mauritania, people go openly
naked." There was, however, another district, as also a
town, Barbaris, beyond Euphrates, which Jonathan may
have considered as Togarmah. According to Ezekiel
xxxviii. 6, Togarmah must be situated in a northern direc-
tion from Palestine. Josephus says that the Greeks call
Togarmah Phrygia.
In Bereshith Babbah, ch. xxxvii., Ashkenaz, Biphat^,
and Togarmah are given as Asea, Chadeb, and Germania,
and Eabbi Berachiah renders the last " Germanikea." So
also does the Chaldean Paraphrast render Jer. li. 27,
" Ararat, Mini, and Ashkenaz," with Kardo, Churmini, i. e,
Urmini or Armenia, and Hadeb.* In Kiddushin, 72 a,
Chabor of 2 Kings xvii. 6, is expounded as being 3*nn
Chadjeb, or Chadeb. This Hadeb or Chadeb is the country
of Adiaben6, east of Tigris, which waa once governed by
Queen Helena, mother of Monobazes (Izates).f There also
is the town Ardibel ( Arbela), famous for the battle in which
Alexander of Macedon routed the Persian King Darius.
It is ridiculous to imderstand by Ashkenaz and Ger-
mania the Germany of the present day, although the
Jews in general called Germany Ashkenaz. I shall say
more on the subject hereafter, and explain whence this
general appellation is derived.
Saadiah translates Ashkenaz with Al Zkalbh, probably
* In Yerushalmi Shebiith i., there is the incorrect reading n^nn
Hadijith for 3"in for Hadjib.
f The learned reader will perhaps recollect that both mother and son
were conyerts to Judaism. The Talmud speaks often and in just praise
of these worthy proselytes. Especially is an anecdote told of the King
Monobazes, that he distributed his treasures of com in a year of faming,
excusing this deed of charity by stating that he wished to heap up trea-
Bures imperishable, where his fathers only gathered transitory wealth.-
Transl.
458 APPENDIX.
the Slaves, Slavonians; Riphath with Al Faringh, the
Franks ; and Togarmah with Al Brgan, the Burgundians.
" And the sons of Javan were Elishah and Tarshish,
Kittim and Dodamin," which Jonathan gives with
ALAS. dSk
. In the former district of Lamatis, in the most southern
part of Anatolia, at present Itchiil, situated on the Medi-
terranean, and forming nearly an island, to the southwest
of Tarshish, was the district of Alusa, having a town of
the same name, and is unquestionably the one referred to
by Jonathan.
TABSAS. DOnn TAK8HI8H. Bf^Bf^n
There are many diflSculties to be removed before we can
properly determine on the position of this celebrated town.
In Genesis, the passage of which we now speak, describes
it as an appendage of the possessions of Javan, whose de-
scendants settled themselves for the most part in western
Asia and eastern Europe (Asia Minor and Greece) . Jo-
nah (i. 3) wanted to fly to Tarshish on board of a ship
which departed from Joppa (Jaflfa), consequently to a city
on the Mediterranean. We nevertheless find (1 Kings
xxii. 48, and 2 Chron. xx. 36) that King Jehoshaphat had
ships built at Ezion-Gaber, on the Red Sea, to go to Tar-
shish and Ophir. So also Solomon had vessels built at
the same port to go to Ophir (1 Kings ix. 26-28). It
seems next to impossible to assume that it was customar}^
to make a voyage to Tarsus, the Tarshish on the Mediter-
ranean, from Ezion-Gaber on the Red Sea, which would
make it necessary to circumnavigate the whole of Africa,
whereas from Joppa the voyage, as it was intended to be
done by Jonah, could be made both quickly and easily.
I therefore maintain that the Scripture speaks of two
APPENDIX. 459
towns called Tarshish, of which we have sufficient and
satisfactory proofs and references.
The Tarsus, or Tarshish, of Genesis, is a town in the
territories of the descendants of Javan, and is without
doubt the modem Tarsus, in the ancient country of Cili-
cia, the Kilikia K*p^S*p of Yerushabni Challah, finis, and
situated on the Mediterranean. In its neighbourhood
are very large ruins. There live at present in Tarsus
about twelve Jewish families, who lately emigrated from
Aleppo (Haleb) . Now it was this town to which Jonah
fled.
But there must have been another Tarshish on the
Bed Sea ; and it appears to me that either Tarshish and
Ophir signify the same, or that they were at least near to
each other; for it says, in 1 Kings xxii. 48, " Jehosha-
phat made ships of Tarshish to go to Ophir for gold," and
in 2 Chron. xx. 36, in the same narrative we read, " to
Tarshish."
I have therefore no doubt that Ophir is the same men-
tioned among the sons of Joktan, along with Shebah and
Chavilah (Gen. x. 29), whose possessions were in Arabia^
as I shall explain hereafter; but they spread out by de-
grees till they crossed the Bed Sea, and settled on the
coasts of A&ica, so that we must look for Ophir and
Tarshish only in that portion of the world. Some even
go so far as to derive Africa from Ophir. Even at the
present day there is the country of Sofala, in the south-
eastern part of Africa, situated opposite to the island of
Madagascar. There is found a mountain called Afura,
which, as does also the whole country of Sofala, pro-
duces much gold. There are also found in that vicinity
ivory, monkeys, and peacocks, which, as we read in 1
Kings xi. 22, came from Tarshish. No one can doubt
that Afura bears a resemblance to Ophir; and hence we
may assume that Tarshish was situated in that vicinity,
460 APPENDIX.
wherefore it was proper to despatch the ships trading
thither from Ezion-Gaber on the Red Sea.
I have discovered a singular proof from the Chaldean
paraphrase of Jonathan that there were two places named
Tarshish. We find the northern one, on the Mediterra-
nean, mentioned in several passages of Scripture, for in-
stance, Jonah i. 3 ; Isaiah xxiii. 1, &c. ; Ixvi. 19 ; Ezekiel
xxvii. 12-25 ; xxxviii. 13 ; and everywhere Jonathan ex-
plains it with NO* rUnO " the maritime country " — " the
sea-port;" since it is situated on the Mediterranean, and
the environs almost form an island. But when he has to
comment on the Tarshish which was situated near Ophir,
in the three passages, 1 Kings x. 22; xxii. 48, and Jere-
miah X. 9, he renders it with Africa KpHSK ; from which
it is clear that the Tarshish of Ophir was, according to this
ancient paraphrast, in Africa.
No argimient can be drawn from the length of the voy-
age, which lasted three years (1 Kings x. 22), that there-
fore the distance must have been much greater than from
Palestine to Sofala; since navigators in those days moved
very slowly along ; and perhaps the greater part of the
time was consumed in gathering the articles for which the
expedition had been fitted out.
The assertion, therefore, of many learned men, that Tar-
shish means Spain, is entirely incorrect ; and it was quite
absurd, not requiring any contradiction even, to assert, as
has been done very recently, that California should be the
ancient Ophir.
ACnsiA, K^OK
Is an incorrect reading, and should be M^13K Abuia, as in
Yerushalmi Megellahi it is written n^3K, which letters can
be pronounced the same as ii^^2H ; either, therefore, Abbiah
or Abuiah, is perhaps put for Appia, the Forum Appii,
which was distant seven miles from Bome, and was once
APPENDIX. 461
a considerable city in Italy. So also we read in Siphri to
Num. xxiii. : " This (Roman) empire had four conside-
rable towns besides Rome, namely, Abbia, Alexandria,
Carthago, and Antiochia."'*' Jonathan therefore assumed
Battim to be synonymous with Italy. The same is said
in Bereshith Rabbah xxxvii., that Kittim signifies Italy^
Onkelos to Num. xxiv. 24 translates it with "the Ro-
mans,"— and there was actually in ancient Latium a town
called Cittim, which is a clear proof that the Kittim had
settled there. Jonathan to Ezekiel xxvii. 6, explains Kit-
tim with Apilia, probably ApoUonia in Macedonia. It
would appear partly from 1 Mac. i., that Macedonia was
called the land of the Kittim.
DURDENIA. K^JTin
In 1 Chron. i. 7, we read Rodanim in place of Dodanim.
It appears from Isaiah xxi. 13, that Dedan was settled in
Arabia. There is also at the present day in Yemen, the
southern Arabia, the city of Dadan, situated on the Ara-
bian Sea.f But in the district of Epirus, Macedonia, there
are found a canton and town named Dodona. The Chal'
dean translation to 1 Chron. i. explains Rodanim with
^VDJNl pon Dn*l Radum, Chammin, and Antiuch. Ra-
dum is the island Ruad (Rhodes?), (see farther, article
Arvadi) ; Chammin is Chemath, the modem Cham6, and
Antiuch is Antiochia ; and all these places are not very
far from each other.
Saadiah explains Elisha with Al Mezizh, which I do
not know how to elucidate ; Kittim with Al Kabrus (i. e.
* Josep., Bell. Jnd., b. iii. ch. 3, says, " Antiochia was the third city in
the Roman Empire."
fin the yioinitj of that Dadan, about one day's journey east firom
Aden, on the Arabian Sea, stands to this day the town of Duan, and
north of this another called Juan : they are without doubt the Dan and
Jayan mentionied in Eiekiel xxvii. 19 along with Dedan.
462 APPENDIX.
the island of C3rprus ;'^ and there is actually at this day a
town called Kittim in that island ; and this proves that the
Kittim settled in many places, since we find also a town
of that name in Italy. The same appears to have occurred
with other nations, whence, then, resulted the various
explanations and diverging views concerning the names
of the sons of Noah; since the same tribe very often
occupied different territories.) Dodanim Saadiah gives
with Al Adnah, unquestionably the town of Aden in
Yemen, not far from the Red Sea, of which I shall
speak more hereafter. This view of Saadiah confirms
what I have stated, that Dadan in Arabia is identical with
the Dodanim of the Bible.
" And the sons of Cham were Cush, Mizraim, Put, and
Canaan ;" which Jonathan explains with DHlf 01 tC*3'TJ^
ARABIA. VC2'^];
It is most singular that Jonathan should render Cush
with Arabia, which is in Asia, when it is generally as-
sumed that this name is identical with Abyssinia or Ethi-
opia, or in general terms Central Africa. But we must
recollect that there are two countries which went by the
name of Cush, — the one actually in Asia, in Arabia, and
the other, as generally understood, in Africa. Cush in
Africa is mentioned in 2 Kings xix. 9 ; Isaiah xviii. 1 •
XX. 3 ; and Psalm Ixviii. 32. Cush in Arabia, and other
parts of Asia, is spoken of in Habakkuk iii. 7 ; Zipporah
* This may serve to explain an uncommonly obscure passage of Sanhed-
rin 106a. It says: D'no TD D'2fl "And ships of war shall come from
the shore of Kittim" (Num. xxiv. 24); 13DN \vrh n 2"^ idk is ex-
plained by Rab to mean " the legion of Asper.'' This is the correct
reading, as cited in the book 'Aruch. I presume that iddk is = "^^o *k
the island of Sephar, Cyprus, the D being put for v, and the legion of
Cyprus is then supposed to be the correct version of D'V of dt^D. Whence
then it appears that Rab thought Kittim to signify the island of Cyprus.
APPENDIX 463
the wife of Moses, a Midianite, is called a woman of Cush
(Num. xii. 1) ; Jonathan to Jeremiah xiii. 23, translates
Cushi with "Indian." (The Indian fowl is called in
Arabic, Al Tik al Chabash, and Al Tik al Hind, i. e. the
fowl of Chabash, Abyssinia, and of India.) The same ver-
sion is given to Isaiah xi. 11. We read also in 2 Chron.
xxi. 16, of " The Arabs that were near Cush." It is in-
deed singular that Rabbi Joseph, in his Chaldean version,
should render this with ♦NpHSK ♦Oinfl hy H ♦KD^i^l
" And the Arabs who were on the coasts of Africa." I
also have heard Persian Jews who have emigrated to Pa-
lestine, say that the country of Shirwan, on the western
shore of the Caspian Sea, is called Cush by the Israelites
who live there. It therefore appears that, according to
Jonathan, Cush, son of Ham, did not settle in Africa, but
in some part of Arabia. The second Targum, or the
later Paraphrast to the book of Esther, translates. From
Hodu to Cush, Nmnon m^ nyi lOU^Ol nino " India
in the west to Cush in the east," which certainly is a most
singular statement; [perhaps the terms were casually
transposed, or, we might render it from the west side of
India to the east of Ethiopia. — Trans.]
ALicHERUK, pnn^^K
Is unknown to me ; but I suppose that the town of Al
Kargah, of Upper Egypt, west of the Nile, is meant here.
It is also called by the Arabs, Al Djirdji ; and if this be
the synonyme for Alicheruk, Put's residence was in the
vicinity of Ethiopia.
Saadiah explains Cush with Al Chabasha, which is the
name at present given by the Arabs to the whole of Middle
Africa, Abyssinia (Ethiopia), and Nubia; Mizraim with
Al Mazr, which is the Arabic name for all Egypt as well
as the town of Kairo ; Put is given with Al Thapth, pro-
bably referring to a large valley in Nubia, called Wady
464 APPENDIX.
Thapujuth. In Shemoth Kabbah, x. and xiii., it is said
that the lands of Egypt and Gush touch and border on
each other. In Ezekiel xxx. 5, there is mentioned in
connexion with Gush, Put, and Lud, also Chub, of which
latter no farther account is given in the Bible. Neverthe-
less, after much seeking, I found in Shemoth Rabbah to
Exod. xii., that the Israelites travelled forty years in the
wilderness of Chub, and in chap. xxiv. it is said explicitly
313 nsno Kin me^ n310 " The wilderness of Shur is
identical with the wilderness of Chub."
" And the sons of Cush were Seba, Chavilah, Sabtah,
Raamah, and Sabtechah, and the sons of Raamah were
Sheba and Dedan," which Jonathan explains with : ♦tn^J^O
njnor (nnor) ♦onioi ♦jsi wjti ♦n3iSi ♦unoDi ^pn^m
Is probably the land of Senaar, between I^ypt and Nubia.
HiNDEKi, ^pi:n
Means India. We find two countries called Chavilah,
the first on the borders of India and Persia, which is also
mentioned in connexion with Eden (Gen. ii. 11) ; and
Strabo likewise calls the inhabitants of Eastern Arabia,
on the Gulf of Persia, " Chavilatai," from Chavilah ; and
it is this which Jonathan calls India : the other country
of this name is the one belonging to a son of Joktan, men-
tioned in connexion with Ophir in Gen. x. 29 ; so do we
also read that the sons of Ishmael dwelt "from Chavilah
to Shur" (ibid. xxv. 18) ; consequently, we must look for
this in the southern part of Arabia (Yemen) ; and at the
present day there is a territory in that country called Al
Chulam, which name greatly resembles Chavila.
SEMIDAI (SAMDAl). 'XlOO
I suppose this to mean the district of Sandi (changing
APPENDIX. 465
m into 71) in Nubia, as also the town of that name which
is situated there. Nevertheless, there is found in southern
Arabia, on the Red Sea, the town of Sabata, which has
much resemblance to Sabtah, and it is therefore quite
likely that Sabtah may have settled there.
Signifies the country of Lybia, to the west of Egypt. In
Yerush. Kelaim viii., it is said that Lub (Lybia) 317 is
Egypt ; but this only refers to Egjrpt in its most extensive
meaning, which includes the Lybian country, and the
passage quoted then only asserts that it borders on Egypt.
ZINGAI^ 'H^J'T
Means probably the country of Zing, which is Zanguebar^
east of Ethiopia.
MOBITI, OB MEYARITINOS, OU'OniD OB 'OniD
See farther down, article " Anamin."
SIMDIGAD, OB SIBfABGAD, 1^10? OB nnOT
Jonathan translates in the same manner (1 Kings x. 1)^
the Queen of Sheba, with Queen of Semargad, probably
deriving this name from the Smaragd (emerald), which
was found in abundance in that country ; and even at the
present day this precious stone is frequently met with in
Upper Egypt, not far from Chabash. It was probably
tins jewel which the Queen brought to King Solomon
(ibid. X. 2).
MISAO; J?D
Appears to me to denote Mozambique, situated to the
south of Zanguebar.
I have already remarked above, article Dodanim, that
there is at present a city of Dadan in southern Arabia^
80
466 APPENDIX.
which is certainly derived fix>m said Dedan, and may be
aasumed aa the country where this tribe settled.
In Toma, 10 a, it is said Sabtah, Baamah, and Sabte>
cha are |nDpD Sekistan, a name unknown to me ; but it
may signify the Scythians [Scykistan], the chief settle-
ments of whom were on the Caspian and Black Seas.
Saadiah translates Seba with Al Seba ; Chavilah with
Al Suila, probably Sofala (see above, Tarshish) ; Sabtah
with Al Sagava, the Zingai of Jonathan, by leaving oat
the n; Baamah with Al Kaiko, probably the district Al
Mikoko, northwest from Zanguebar. In the book of El-
dad the Danite, in his description of the country whither
the Israelites were banished, he says, " Beyond the river
of Cush {J^13 *injS *l3i^3 (meaning, perhaps, the Niger*),
in the land of the Ludin and Kako," referring, probaUy,
to the Baamah of Saadiah. Sabtecha he gives with Al
Damdem (unknown to me) ; Sheba with Al Sand, the
Samdai of Jonathan ; and Dedan with Al Hind, India.
"Babel, Erech, Akkad, and Calneh, in the land of
Shinar," are rendered by Jonathan with DnJll *n2*1 Sm
DiDJifli nynio pflDDpi pa^viv
THE GREAT BABEL. Ti^^ ^33
(Daniel iv. 27.)
The following is a very short description of this once
BO celebrated city. It was situated about 50 English
miles south of the modem Bagdad on the Euphrates, and
was 60 English miles in circumference. Its walls were
300 feet high, and 87 thick. In the middle of it stood
the Belus Tower (Jer. li. 44), which was 600 feet high;
and some believe that it was built on the old Tower of
Babel (Gen. xi. 5). There was likewise by the royal palace
the hanging garden : it was 300 feet in height^ and was
* Might not the Upper Nile in Abyssinia be onderstood hj the
" river of Cush ?" — ^Translator.
AFFEKDIX« 407
regarded as one of the seven wondew'of the world. In
the centre of the city stood the palace of Nebuoh'adnezsar,
which, so to say, formed a city by itseJj^ and wi^ 10
miles in circumference. A hundred gates and fortificar
tions afforded entrances into the same. The dams erected
on the Euphrates were also very remarkable works of art;
they protected the city against an overflow in the highest
stage of the river, and always supplied it with an abun-
dance of water, when the stream was even at the lowest
point. Coresh (Cyrus) of Persia conquered it from the
Babylonians, but did not desteoy it; but at a later period,
in the reign of Arthachshastha (Artaxerxes), it was de-
stroyed in part. Alexander of Macedon intended to re-
store it, and to bring it back to its former splendour ; and
he commenced to repair and rebuild the dams, and had
put 10,000 men to labour on this work, when the whole
plan was frustrated by his death.
At the time of the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus,
Babel was yet standing, but shorn greatly of its ancient
grandeur and importance. It commenced at that period
to decline gradually ; and in the year 4072, a.m. (312), in
the reign of Constantine, it was already bereft of all popu-
lation, and only a few of its walls were yet standing,
which the kings of Persia employed as enclosures for their
hunting ground. At present it is, an immense heap of
ruins. " But wild beasts of the desert shall lie there ; and
their houses shall be full of owls ; and ostriches shall dwell
there ; and monkeys (satyres) shall dance there." (Isaiah
xiii. 21.) ^^And Babel shall be changed into heaps of
ruins, the dwelling of serpents, an astonishment and a
hissing, and be without an inhabitant." (Jer. li. 37.)
In the midst of the site of Babel there is met with, so
to say, a mount formed out of glazed bricks ; it is, at its
base, 2000 feet in circumference, and is 198 feet high.
On the summit there is a pillar 37 feet high. Tp the
west of it is a ruinous stroctme 500 feet in length, which
468 APPENDIX.
i8 two stories in height, the upper one being more than 100
feet high, and the lower 60, although this also was equally
elevated with the other, only that it is now buried nearly
one-half in sand and rubbish. On the upper story there
are pillars, which evidently served for the support of a
third story ; and some maintain that it is the remains of
the ancient tower of Babel.
HADAS^ OR HIDES. OTl
The present Orfa (see farther, article Ur *11K), was called
in the time of the Romans £dessa. In Ezra iv. 9, occurs
the word N^IDIK " Archevites," that is, men of "Erech."
NiziBiN, yy^c}
Is the town of Nizibin (Nisibis), SO miles east-eouth-
east from the town of Mardin, in the eastern part of the
district of Diarbekir. Many Jews reside in this place,
and they point out here the grave of Rabbi Jehudah ben
Bethera (Pesachim, 8 b j Sanhedrin, 32 b) . Rabbi Petsr
chiah also says, in his travels, that in Nizibin is the Syna-
gogue of the just-named Rabbi.
KETISPUN, pSDOp
(Vayikra Babbah t.)
Was formerly an important city in the modem Diar-
bekir. Josephus (Antiquities, b. xviii. ch. ix.), calls it
Ctesiphon.
PONTOS, DIOiU)
Appears very singular when applied as an explanation
to the word Shinar, since Pontus did not belong to Baby-
lonia, which is evidently synonjrmous with Shinar, but
was situated on the shore of the Black Sea, of which
country the celebrated Aquila (Akilos, the proselvte)
DiSpy,* who translated the Holy Scriptures into the
* In Echa Rabbethi, 68 c, the Targum Onkelos is referred to, which
is incorrect, and should be 0^ Vpr Akilis ; since the former only trau-
APPENDIX. 469
Greek, was a native (see Torath Kohanim to Levit, xxv) .
I therefore prefer to adopt the exposition of the Targum
Yerushahni, who translates, 7331 KJDJO " In the land of
BaheL"
In Yoma, 10 a, it is said Erech is Urichus, D13niK.
Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela speaks of a city existing in
his time which he calls Rachia, which is probably the
town mentioned in the Talmud, although Rabbi Benjamin
himself thought it identical with Caln^h. It is farther
stated there, " Caln^h is '^QM Gofer ;" another reading has
it, "♦flJ^J *lfllj Gofer Ninph6," meaning, no doubt, the
modern Djober on the Euphrates, north of the town of
Hit. Ninph^ is of mythological origin, and stands for
Nymph6. It is stated in Rosh Hashanah, 26 a, ^^ In Babel
is a bride rhs called Ninph^." The name njSa Calneh
is then explained as ilKJ hSs ^^ Callah Noah, beautiful
bride," and hence the town Nimph6 Djober is fittingly re-
garded as Calneh. Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela says, ^^ Al
Jubir is Pumbaditha." In Ezekiel xxvii. 23, we find
Canneh, with I wanting, assimilated by double n for Cal-
neh. Jonathan on that verse explains it by Nezibin. It
is also stated there ^^B^3 nt n3K " Akkad is Bashchar,"
for which see Chapter IV.
Saadiah leaves Babel, Akkad, and Calneh untranslated,
but gives Erech with Al Beram, which is unknown to
me.
" Nineveh, Rechoboth-Ir, Calach, and Ressen," are trans-
lated by Jonathan with ninfi Ump nK^oSs tlM^i
(Yerushalmi has n^TH) ^DKS^• The same explanation is
given in Bereshith Rabbah xxxvii.
NINEVEH. T\)y}
Not far from the Tigris, opposite to the town of Mosul,
lated the Pentatenoh, and this in the Aramean dialect, bat not the pas-
sage mentioned there, nor in the Greek, as stated by the Midrash.
470 AFFINBIX.
are pointed out the rukus of Nineveh. This formerly
celebrated city held ahno6t the same rank with BabeL
Near these ruins, on a mount, is a lai^ building, which
the Turks call Nebi Juna, i. e. the prophet Jonah, since
they, althou^ erroneously, believe that there is the
grave of this prophet, which is pointed out by others in
Oalilee.
There is yet another unfounded tradition prevailing in
that vicinity ; since the people point out, not far finom Mo-
sul, a large and old structure, in the village Alkus, which
they allege to be the grave of Nahum o£ Elkoeh, and
relate, that when the people of Nineveh fell back again into
their course of former vices, after the mission of Jonah,
Nahum was sent thither to summon them to repentance,
and predict their certain downfall ; that, farther, the persons
so threatened with punishment assailed him, and called
him a deceiver and false prophet, because Jonah had al-
ready prophesied their destruction, which nevertheless was
not accomplished ; in consequence of which he was mur-
dered by them, and this place where he was buried was
named Alkus after him. Now, although Nahum actually
predicted the downfall of Nineveh, which seems to be the
chief subject of his book, the tradition in question is en-
tirely fabulous and absurd ; since his grave is accurately
pointed out at Tanchum, (p. 188, which see,) and the town
of Alkezi, near Tanchum, of which he was a native, was
yet standing in the time of Hierony mus. His remains are
therefore, interred near his native place, but not beyond
the Tigris, after having fallen under the murderous assault
of the Assyrians. We must admit that Rabbi Benjamin
of Tudela says in his travels : " At Ashur, i. e. Mosul,
there is a Synagogue of the prophet Obadiah, one of the
prophet Jonah, and one of the prophet Nahum the El-
koshi ;" but he says nothing about his having been mur-
dered or buried there.
APPENDIX. 471
PAiiTiATH KARTHA, PSRAJOTH (chbrith) (nnfi) nino iwnp nn'oSfl.
In these names Jonathan gives us no clue to their as-
certainment, as he renders the Hebrew words merely into
the Chaldean, wherefore his paraphrase hoa here no geo-
graphical value. Rechoboth-Ir in Hebrew is identical
with the Chaldean Paltiath Kartha — ^the City of Streets ;
Calach (173 he considers as Kelach nSp branch or sprout,
which is in Chaldean Perioth or Cherith.
THELA88AB. lOKSn
See farther the article of this name.
In Toma, 10 a, we read " Rechoboth-Ir is a town on the
Euphrates near Meshan. Kelach is a town on the Eu-
phrates near Bursif. Bessen is Aktispun." The most
southern part of Mesopotamia, i. e. the country between
Euphrates and Tigris was formerly called Mesa (for Me-
shan) ; which was therefore a city or district situated on
the Euphrates, now unknown. The same is the case with
Bursif. It appears from Sanhedrin, 109 a, as also Bereshith
Babbah xxxvii., that Bursif, or Bulsif, was a place not far
from the former town of Babel ; Kelach likewise must have
been therefore either a city or district in the vicinity of
this town, on the banks of the Euphrates. " Aktispun/'
see above, article Calneh.
It is also said there, ^^ Ashur is Siluk ; this means pro-
bably the ancient Seleucia. Josephus, Antiq., b. xviii.,
ch. xii., calls it Silicia, not far from Ctesiphon."
Saadiah renders Ashur with Al Muzl, and to this day
Mosul is called Ashur by the Jews ; Rechoboth-Ir, with
Rachbah al Kiryah, i. e. the town Rachbah, which signifies
unquestionably the modem Rahabeh, on the Euphrates,
ten English miles south from Kerkisieh ; Calach with Al
Ablah, which is unknown to me ; Ressen with Al Medain,
which is the present town Amadia, about eighty English
miles northwest firom Mosul, where many Jews reside.
Some are of opinion that the town Chaluan, between
472 APPENDIX.
Irak Arabia and Persia, is the ancient Calach. At present
there is nothing left standing of Chaluan ; still it may be
the modem Chalchocenia west of Shuster.
^^ Ludim, Anamim, Lehabim, Naphtuchim, Puthmsim,
Casluchim and Caphtorim." (Gen. x. 13, 17.)
Onkelos renders Caphtorim with ^KpDBp Kepotkai,
which is the name of the modem Dimiat (Damietta),
an inconsiderable town on the eastern branch of the
Nile, where it falls into the sea. This place is therefore
known under three different names: Gaphtor, Kapotka
(see Ketuboth, ch. xiii. § 11), and Dimiat (Damietta).
Jonathan renders the verse with ♦KpIvS ♦NtDIHO ♦KDIVJI
OrVATAAI. "KOiri
This appears to me to be the original name of Egypt,
fix)m Oivtai. The wandering race called Gipsies in Eng-
lish, are called by the Arabs "Gibtis;*' the word ^* Kopts,"
found in European books, is incorrect, for the proper
temi is Gibti, whence then Egypt is derived in all pro-
bability; and these Gipsies were originally inhabitants
of that country. The name of Zigeuner^ as they are
termed in Germany, is probably derived from Zoan TW,
pronounced in Arabic with Gain, g instead of Ain ; hence
Zoan makes Zogan, and then Zoganer, Ziganer, or Zigeu-
ner. See also the explanation of Saadiah. In Talmud
Sabbath 115 a, and Megillah 18 a, we find n*D£)*J Giptith
to mean Egypt.
MARTIYOTEAI, OR MARYOTAAI. "KCDV^D
This is the district of Mauritania (see Siphri to Haazinu •
Jebamoth 63 h). Josephus calls the country of Put,
Monti, in which is the river Put, of the same name with
the coimtry.
LIVAKAAI, 'KpirS
Is quite unknown to me. But may it be taken for
APPENDIX. 473
Lybia? But this is already mentioned by the author
under Lubai.
PANTASCHI^AAI^ ^M'DOt93S
Signifies the district between Gazza and Raamses (Pelu-
sium), once called Kasiati Kadsai. (See farther down,
article ♦DlVlfiOJfi Pantapulot^.)
NASTOTEAI. ^WSrOJ
I am inclined to correct this by substituting 1 W for J n,
and read Wasyoteai, since to this day Central Egypt is
called Wastani.
I believe myself authorized to maintain that the com-
mencing syllable {9J£} Pant, as also in the above Pantas-
chinaai, is not to be considered as a name, but as denoting
a country or district, equal to the Arabic Belad; since
even at the present day there is a place on the Nile, twelve
English miles above the town of Siot, called Man-Falut,
and I, therefore, think that Pant-Pulot6, from its evident
resemblance, means as much as the district of Pulot^ or
Falut.
PBLU8AAI.* ^HOlS'fi
This signifies the city of Raamses, since Jonathan
translates it in Exod. xii. 37 with Pelusin. (See also
Yoma, ch. iii. § 7.)
The Terushalmi has pretty much the same explanation
of the above names as the T. Jonathan, with only an oc-
casional deviation apd a transposition of the letters.
Saadiah explains Ludim with Al Thanisiim, which is
Zoan, since Onkelos translates Zoan of Num. xiii. 22 with
* In my copy, this word is found in the Tar. Yerushahni, but not in
Jonathan. — Translator.
474 AFfran>nc.
Tanis, the ancient Thanis. This will confirm my suppo-
sition as given above, article Givataai ; since Jonathan and
Saadiah, rendering Ludim respectively Givataai and
Thanis (Zoan); refer to the same people, the Gibti or
Gipsies ; and the Yerushalmi Terumoth viii. asserts the
Ludim to be cannibals, a charge even yet laid against the
wandering tribe called variously Gipsies, Zigeuner, Bohe-
mians, Egyptians, Gitani^ in the several European lan-
guages. Anamim he translates with Al As-chandraniin,
which is Alexandria; Lehabim with Al Behanasiin, which
is the present Banha, a place on the eastern Nile, twenty
English miles north from Cairo; Naphtuchim with Al
Pirmi-un, which is the village Bermin, about five English
miles west from the Nile, and eighteen English miles south
from Fium (Pithom); Pathrusim with Al Bimiin, probsr
bly Fium (see farther, article Pithom) ; Casluchim with
Al Zaidin, which is the southern part, or Upper Egypt,
and called at present even Al Zaidi ; and Caphtorim with
Al Demiatin, the modem Dimiat (Damietta, as above, in
Caphtorim).
I will take this occasion to explain some few other names
belonging to Egypt. Gichon, pn*J of Gen. ii. 13, is left
unexplained by Rashi, whereas he gives Pishon pc^^^ with
Nile. It appears, however, that the former might be taken
for the Nile, since even at present the inhabitants of Cha-
bash (Abyssinia) call the Nile Guchan. Josephus, also in
his Antiq., b. i. ch. i., translates Gichon with Nile, and
supposes Pishon to be the Gusan, or Ganges in India.
Nevertheless, there is a river named Gachun in northern
Persia, which flows to the north and falls into Lake Ural
and is, perhaps, the Gichon mentioned in Eden.
On pK of Gen. xli. 45, called in Ezek. xxx. 17, Aven*
* In Pesiktah Rabbethi, chap, xvii., it is said to Isaiah xix. 18 : ''At
that time there shall be five cities in the land of Egypt speaking the lan-
guage of Canaan, one shall be called Ir-Hacheres ;" the following are the
cities, I'jn • DJ'^Bin Dn^ann • niajD «^i3 • Km:D3^« jiu arDBm i';r oinn iy
APPENDIX. 475
is also termed pON NJ No Amon (Jer. xlvi. 25 ; Nahum
iii. 8) ; we ascertain this identity, because Jonathan ren-
ders No Amon with Alexandria, which is the same as
that given for On by Saadiah ; though Jonathan translates
]ti jrrD the priest of On with DOBT N31 the chief of
Tanis, which would give us Zoan for On, and consequently
not No Amon.
Goshen |U*J of Gen. xlv. 10, is given by Saadiah with Al
Sdir. In Upper Egypt, on the eastern bank of the Nile, is
a town named Al Dir, and opposite to the same, at the
distance of about a day's journey, is a place called Gashn,
and it is therefore to be assumed that according to Saadiah
the country between Dir, called by him Sdir, and Gashn,
DiS'fl iS'K vmv "iT^ OK 0*10 O'lnn. Here are some typographical errors,
which should be thus corrected, pu Navon, is undoubtedly incorrectly put
for No Amon or Avon pDK K3 or pK, and is then said to be Alexandria;
'< Noph is Manpuach" is also wrong, and should be Memphis D'fiJO (n for
m); the ruins of which ancient city are still to be seen about ten English
miles south from Al Cairo ; the same explanation is given by Jonathan to
Jer. xxxiy. 1, ''Noph is OBO i. e. Memphis;'' [Isaiah xix. 13, 'Hhe chiefs
of Noph" he gives with DOD vryHy which is incorrect and should be O'SO
or Memphis ;] '' Tachpanches is Chuphaines'' is incorrect and should bo
Duphaines DO^^fin, i. e. Daphne, which was situated in the Delta of the
Nile, not far from the sea ; or it may be Tuphaines D'^r'fliD, and would
then signify Thebes, which was in Upper Egypt, on the left bank of the
Nile, where at present immense ruins are found, and which many hold to
be No Amon, since a temple of Amon stood formerly in Thebes. " Ir-
Hacheres is OK T>'^0*' Serak Ani ; this is an extremely obscure term, since
we know of no town resembling this name. I think we ought to read
OKD*^ Sarbani, since there is a lake called Serboni, situated near the sea,
about midway between Al Arish and Dimiat, and it is probable that
formerly a city of the same name may have been situated there, and been
the '' Ir Hacheres'' of Scriptures, vmvry T); Ir Hashemesh, '' the city of
the sun," is Heliopolis, the Greek synonyme of the Hebrew ; in Jer. Ixiii.
13, it is called Beth-Shemesh, " the house of the sun." The ruins of
Heliopolis are still seen five miles north from Cairo. The passage quoted
should then be rendered, '' Tr-Hacheres, Ir-Hashemesh, No Amon or
Alexandria, Noph or Memphis, Tachpanches or Daphn6 (or Thebes) ; Ir
Haoheres is Serboni, and Ir-Hashemesh is Heliopolis."
476 APFENDHL
is the land of Groshen. But it is hardly likely that this
land was situated so far to the south. There is, however,
pointed out at the present time, a village called Gishan,
about a day's journey northeast from Cairo, which marks
more probably the position of Goshen. We also find that
Joshua conquered a land, Groshen (Joshua xL 16) ; bat I
could not succeed in tracing it out, as it is scarcely to be be-
lieved that the Egyptian district of that name is alluded to.
Pithom Din^d (Exod. i. 11), is translated by Saadiah
with Al Fium, and is the modem Medineth al Faium^ two
days' journey south from Cairo, and three-fourths of a da/s
journey from the western shore of the Nile. It was the
birth-place of this celebrated and learned man^ who is
hence called Saadiah al Fiumi. According to the state-
ment of Herodotus, the Greek historian, Patanus (Pithon)
was near the town nD3 ♦& Phi-Beseth (which see) ; but
this would place it much farther north than Fium.
Jonathan also translates Pithom in this passage most sur-
prisingly witn O^mtD Tanis.
Raamses DDDJ^T (ibid.) In the Coptic (Gipsy) dialect,
Bern signifies a man, SfiosSy a herd ; whence then the name
of the place Rem-shoss, because the sons of Jacob, the
shepherds, were settled there. Saadiah gives it Mdth " En-
Shems," i.e. Ir-Hashemesh-or, Beth-Shemesh, Heliopolis,
(see above, art. On); Jonathan, with Pilusin pDlS^fl, which
is perhaps the present Telfeis, which is about a day's
journey north-northeast from Cairo.
Zoan Jj;v (Num. xiii. 22), is given by Onkelos and
the pseudo-Jonathan to this passage, and the real Jona-
than to Isaiah xix. 13, with Tanis. Saadiah, however,
gives it with Pastat al Mazra, which is the name of a most
ancient city on the western bank of the Nile, opposite to
Cairo, and is identical with Zoan, according to a tradition
generally received ; and they point out there the ruins of
a handsome palace of the regent Joseph, the son of Jacob,
APPENDIX. 477
which is often visited by our pious fellow-Israelites as a^
worthy relic, especially in the month of Elul (August and
September) . No Jews, however, reside there at present, but
it is only recently that many resided there. I once saw
a Oet (a letter of divorce), which was dated " Pastat of
Egypt, called the old Mitzraim, situated on the river Nile,"
ohi nni hyi njtr^n onvo rh npn onvo BNooaa.
Seveneh rUID of Ezekiel xxx. 6, the most southern
town of Egypt, Sien^, is at present the town of Sina on
the Nile, not far from the frontiers of Nubia, though it is a
little to the northeast of the site of the ancient Sien^. It
appears very curious that the towns of Dir and Goshen,
which are south of Sien^, are supposed by Saadiah to mark
the bounds of the land of Goshen, which would have been
in Nubia, if the hypothesis of the learned Gaon be correct,
which it is evidently not, as said above under Groshen.
Fhi-Beseth jiDD *fi (ibid. 17), the ancient Bubestus, is
said to have been situated far to the north, in the Delta of
Egypt. Josephus, Antiq., b. xiii., chap, vi., says : " The
Jewish Temple (the house of Onias VilPT HO Beth Chonio
of Menachoth, 109 b) stood in Leontopolis, which was
called Bubast^ in the ordinary language of the country."
But in his Bell. Jud., b. vii., chap, xxxvii., he says that
this temple was 180 stadia, or 22^ English miles, from
Memphis, which would place it considerably more to the
south than the first statement.
Sin ♦jD (ibid. 16), is said to mean the vicinity of Pelu-
sium. (See above, art. Raamses.)
Pathros DITHU (ibid. xxix. 14), was the former city of
Pathuris, in Upper Egypt, not far from Thebes, where-
fore the whole of the environs were named Pathiritis. At
present, no vestige of the place is to be found.
« The Hivite, the Arkite, and the Sinite," v. 17.
Arki, Arkite fi*)J^, is probably the village Arki, situated
seven miles nortn-northeast from Trablus.
478 APPENDIX.
Sinite ^yo is explained by Jonathan with ^ICDVUM An*
thosoai, probably the modem village of Qrtoeo, which ii
near the sea, fifteen English miles north from ArkL Ta^
gum Yerushalmi gives these words with •K71£3*Tft Tripo-
laai = Tripoli, or Trablus, and ^itD^*tt)3 Kaphroeaai, L e.
Capros = Cyprus. In Bereshith Babbah, chap. xxxviL,
Arki is explained to be pjsSl Dp^K Aricam on the Leba-
non, which is so far correct that the village Arki stands on
the northwestern point of the Lebanon. Sini, he says, is
^KDIil^K Arthosaai, which appears to be a more correct
reading than the Anthosaai of Jonathan, since the modem
name is Ortoso, not Ontoso. In the same manner does
Saadiah explain Sini with Al Trablsiin, which is Trablos.
^^The Arvadite, the Zemarite, and the Chamatite;"
these Jonathan renders ^KIS'DJK ^KICOIH ^KDDlS.
Lutaseai ^KDDlS is Laodicea (?), which is also caUed
Dussi al Djededa. (See Chap. L, article Zedad.)
Chomezaai ^KVOin ; this is the modem CShams on the
Ahzy River. (See Chap. II., Note 1.)
Antichoay ♦^^^^*t^i^< is in Arabic, Antakia ; it is situ-
ated ten English miles from the sea, and is an unimpor-
tant town on the Ahzy. About forty Jewish families
live there. The paraphrase of the Targum Yerushahni
S33 }0 NOlOiN " Antiochia from Babel" is inexplicable
to me. Bereshith Rabbah, chap, xxxvii., says, K^,*^ ♦f^onn
♦Jfl^i) " Chamathi means Epiphania ;" in Pesachim 42 a,
the place is given N^ilflfl Pephonia; it is at present a
small town called Chamah, twelve miles north fix)in
Chams, and is likewise situated on the Ahzy. At pre-
sent no Jews reside there; but it is only twenty years
since the sheich of the place laid to their charge false
accusations, and had them expelled from there. The
greater part of them thereupon settled in Damascus.
(See Chap. I., art. nOPT NIdS.)
Yerush. Megillah, i., says, OTiTS K^H nnx Arvadi is
Rhodes ; this is not the island of Rhodes, which I will
APPENDIX. 479
mention hereafter^ but the very small island of Ruad,
. which lies somewhat norths opposite to the town of Ortoso,
where the Eleuther falls into the sea.
Saadiah also gives the above in the same manner^ Al
Arudiin, Al Chemaziin^ Al Chamauiin.
<<ZnX)N, OERAR, LESHA."
Jonathan gives Zidon with Bothanias"^ D**ini3 ; this
word was entirely unknown to me. But fortunately I
found in the Chaldean translation of Kabbah Joseph of 1
Chron. i. 13, jH^v n* W3n NiH DNom3 n» n^Sw fj;i31
\yi21 n313 Nin "And Canaan begot Bothanias, who
built Zidon, and was the first-bom of Canaan," whence it
appears that Zidon was also denoted as Bothaniets.
Lesha ytin is explained by Jonathan with ^JMyp Kal-
dahi ; it ought to be ^^^7p Kalrahi, i. e. the former Cal-
lirrho^, which was spoken of above in the portion of
Reuben.
Saadiah explains Gerar with Al Chaluzia; Jonathan
renders 1^3 Bared (Gen. xvi. 14) , and "^Mff ^310 the wil-
derness of Shur (Exod. xv. 22) with Chaluzah ; whence
we may infer, that the whole southwestern part of Pales-
tine, up to the vicinity of the Red Sea, was called Chalu-
zia, since Gerar, which was between Beersheba and Gazza
(see article Gerar, Chap. III.), was still ntoied Chaluzia.
<< ELAM, VZ, CHUL, GETHER, AND JOKTAN.''
Our Targumim give us no explanation of these names;
but Saadiah gives Elam with Al Chus-sthan, no doubt the
modem Chosistan, which is north of the gulf of Persia,
and is a district belonging to the kingdom of Persia. The
city of Shuster, which is held by many for the former
Shushan of Esther L 2, lies in thisd istrict. Those who
take this view found it upon the assertion of Daniel viii.
2, who states, ^^ I was in Shushan, which is in the land of
Elam ;" since Shuster is in Ch<mstan^ which denotes the
* My editifA bas Gotliaiiiaa. — ^Isanblatob.
480
oountry of Elam, according to Saadiah. Bat the geaaeaiBy
prevailing tradition, that Hammadan (which see) ia tlie
former Shushan, is in direct contradiction with tihe fint
assumption.
Ashur is rendered by Saadiah with Al Mini (see
Mosul, p. 471) ; Aram with Al Aimin, L e. Armenia; Ux
with Al Gutah, the modem Al Lecya^ which la beyond
Jordan (see above, ch. iv., article Bashan) ; and Uiey ac-
tually point out there the grave of Job^ who lived in the
land of Uz (Job i. 1), though the Chaldean version of the
book of Lamentations renders Uz (iv. 21) with Armenia.
In £cha Rabbethi we read D*1fi V f^Jf ^ Uz is Persia.^
Chul he gives with Al Chul% in Coelesyiia. (See above^
Chap, n., article ntXI KttS.)
(jether he translates with Al Gramkah, which name I
think m3r8elf authorized to trace in Eormanka, a city and
district in Kurdistan.
Joktan he gives with Al Kachtan. In Ifahomedan
books there are mentioned among the Arab tribes, ^< Ad,
Thimud, I>jurcliim, Midian, Amalik, and Kachtan." It
therefore appears that Saadiah supposes this Ishmaelitish
tribe of Kachtan to be descended from Joktan, through
an intermixture with the same.
Chazar-maveth jilD ^Vn? is no doubt the present town
Al Azarmuth, one day's journey to the east of Aden in
the country of Yemen.
Hadoram D^nSly is, according to a certain tradition,
the city of Senaar, the capital and residence of the king
(the sheriff) of southern Arabia (Yemen).
Uzal SmK; is also, according to a certain tradition, the
town of Zanaa, which is to the north of Mocha, in the
vicinity of which the celebrated Mocha coffee is produced,
and where about one hundred Jewish families reside. In
Zanaa, also, many Jews are found.
Mesha HVO, is rendered by Saadiah with Al Meka^ and
APPENDIX. 481
Sephar •TfiD with Al Medina ; both towns being the well-
known sacred cities of the Mahomedans.
Har Hakkedem, the Eastern Mountam^ Dlpn *in, is
given in the Persian version with Kuh Ahl Arab, i. e.
" the mount of the Arabian people," or, more properly,
" of the Arab community, assembly," the Persian Ahl
being synonymous with the Hebrew ^T^p congregation of
assembly.
EXPLANATION OF SEVERAL OTHER NAMES fipNTIONED IN SCRIPTURE.
Nod TiJ (Gen. iv» 16). Some suppose that this means
India, and that its name of Hoda. nill stands for Hondu
Mi')?), i. e. IM Nod.
Jubal 73V (ibid. 21). There is a little island in the
Red Sea, in a southerly direction firom Mount Sinai,
which is called Djubal ; it is possible that Jubal settled
there.
Ararat •01*1^ (ibid. viii. 4). Onkelos, Jonathan, and
Saadiah explain this with Kardo, a mountain chain in
Armenia. Jonathan says, nn NnilCJ DW jmpT mO
N^J^OIN nn Nniin DIB^I N^Jinp " The mountam of Kar-
don ; the name of one mountam is Kardania, and of the
other Armenia." This gives us two chams, and both are
understood under the general name of Ararat. Three days'
journey north from the town of Sacho, which is about one
day's journey north from Mosul, is a very high mountain,
called Djebl Djudi, to which the Turks of the neighbour-
hood make annual pilgrimages about the month of Tamuz
(June), and illuminate it with a multitude of torches in
the evening, so that they can be seen even as far south as
Sacho, though a three days' journey distant. The Turks
assert that it was on this mount the ark of Noah remained
standing, and that Calif Omar had it taken down, and
built a mosque of the materials thus obtained.
Nevertheless, west of the city of Erivan there ia a very
81
482 iPFENMX.
high mountain, called by the Turks Agri Da^ (Dagh
being the Turkish name for mount or mountain), and bj
Armenians Machis. Its elevation is 16,254 feet above the
level of the Caspian Sea, and 13,300 above the plain on
which it stands. The inhabitants of the country say that
the ark of Noah rested there ; and in Etshmiazin, 3 Eng-
lish miles to the northwest of Erivan, they point out a
board which is alleged was a part of this ancient atnK>
ture. At the foot of this mountain is a little village called
Arghuri ; in Armenian ** argh" means " to plant," " uri"
a ^^ vine branch ;" and the name is therefore derived from
the vineyard which Noah planted, which is alleged took
place near this village. Josephus (Antiquities, b. i., ch. iv.)
relates, that the place where Noah left the ark ia called,
in the Armenian dialect, Apobateria, which means ^^ the
going out ;" and that there were boards of the same in
that place. In book xx., ch. ii., he says, " that, in the
neighbourhood of Kerun, there are found boardif of Noah's
ark."
Casdim DHB^a (ibid. xi. 31), were descendants of Ke-
sed ntr3, who was of a later date, and was the son of
Nahor (xxii. 22); they were also called Chaldeans, in
Talmud ^NiSd Kalda^. According to Homer, the original
seat of the Chaldeans was in the north, near the Black
Sea. Afterwards they were removed by an Asiatic king
to Mesopotamia to fertilize the land; and it was here
that they became so extended and powerful, that, at a
later period, they assumed the government and power of
the AssjTian empire, and were themselves the rulers of
the country. This view will explain the passage of
Isaiah xxiii. 13.
Ur 1W is at present called Urfa, and is a day's journey
east from the Euphrates, in the country of Diarbekir.
They point out here the house of Abraham, as also the
site of the furnace wherein he was cast by order of Nim-
APPENDIX. 48S
rod. On this site is at pvesent a pool, or little lake, in
which are a great many fish, which, however, the pious
Mahomedans will not allow to be touched, out of reve-
rence for Abraham.
Charan pn (ibid.) is probably the village Charran,
situated in a desert district, about 20 English miles south-
east from Urfa. It stands near the river Gallab, which
runs from Urfa to Charran. They show here a strong
tower, called the Tower of Nimrod; also the grave of
Terach, the father of Abraham.
Elassar IdSk (ibid. xiv. 1 ) is at present unknown ;
but it appears from the book of Judith, i. 6, that it was
not far from the Median kingdom, near the celebrated
town of Ecbatana, the modem Hammadan. (See above,
Hamdiji, p. 454.)
Shuach nW (ibid. xxv. 2) is probably the country now
called Sachai, situated to the east of Batanea. (See above,
article Bashan, p. 220.)
Pethor linfl (Num. xxii. 5). According to Rabbi
Benjamin of Tudela, Pethor is the same with pSiO, i. e.
the modem Bales or Blis, on the Euphrates, east of Cha-
leb (Aleppo) ; and he found there still standing the (as-
tronomical) tower of Bileam.
The land of the Zidonians D^iinnf J^^K (Josh. xiii. 4)
was formerly called Phoenicia, and in Bereshith Babbah
90, K*pUS Phoenukia ; it extended from Sur to Trablus.
I will mention a few towns of this district.
Arpad 1£J*1K (2 Kings xviii. 34) is of the same signifi-
cation with Arvad (which see), by changing p for v. Pro-
perly speaking. Tyre was also called Arad, since on old
Tynan coins there was found the inscription of 7K hSo
TW Melech al Ard, "King of Ard," which is Zor or
Tyre.
Berotha nnn3 (Ezek. xlvii. 16) is called Beritiia in
Jos., Bell. Jud., b. vii., ch. xx., and in the Life of Josephus^
484 AFFEin>ix.
p. 520. It is fifteen English miles north firom Zidon* and
is a considerable searport town. Here reside about fifty
Jewish families, who have a very ancient Sjnagogae.
(Jhethlon (ibid. 15) pSm^ is probably identical with the
ruins of Athlun, situated on the sea-shore four miles
south from Surafend. (See above, art. Zarephath.) It is
possibly the same with Hithlo XJIVJlj spoken of in
Niddah, fol. 9 i, which is termed in the Yerushalini of the
same treatise Ayithlo y7iV^3f ; only that it would be most
surprising that the ancient boundary of Palestme should
never have extended farther north than this point.
Berothai ♦rn3 (2 Sam. viii. 8), is the present Biri on
the Euphrates, about two days' journey to the northeast
of Chalcb. This town was situated in the territories of
the King of Aram-Zobah, whose capital and residence is
said, according to a tradition, to have been tlie city of
Chaleb, wherefore it is called by the Israelites Aram-Zo-
bah. This district furnished much copper, as is apparent
firom the passage cited ; and now there is a mount, one
English mile west from Chaleb, called Djebl Anchas, i. e.
copper mountain, where it is possible much copper was
obtained.
Betach nD3 (ibid.) is called Tibchathnn3D in 1 Chron.
xviii. 8. There is about eighteen English miles west from
Chaleb a town called Metach, which is, perhaps, identical
with Betach, by changing B into Jf, which is frequently
done.
Chelbon p^Sn (Ezek. xxvii. 18) is the village Halbun,
about ten English miles to the northwest of Damascus. It
furnishes even at the present day remarkably good wine,
as it is said also in the passage cited.
Rezeph Cjin (2 Kings xix. 12) is the present village
Razapa, two days' journey east from Chaleb, near the
Euphrates.
Eden py (ibid.), (Ezek. xxvii. 23). Jonathan explains
APPENDIX. 485
this with 3nn Chadeb. I have already stated that this
signifies Adiaben^, in the vicinity of Ardebil. About five
English miles south of this place is, even at present,
the village of Daibuin^, which appears to bear some simi-
larity to Chadeb and Adiaben^.
Thelassar ID^Sn (ibid.), perhaps for lltTN Sn Tel
Ashur, "the high, mountainous Assyria," which would
then denote the country around Adiaben^.
Sepharvaim D^l^fiD (ibid. 13), was the ancient city of
Siffara, on the Euphrates, in Mesopotamia.
Hena yiJl (ibid.), is the present town of Anna, on the
Euphrates, situated on the road from Chaleb to Bagdad.
Ivah niy (ibid.), is the district of Avadiah in Persia.
Cuthah nniD (ibid. xvii. 24). As late as the time of
Nachmanides (the DOT Ramban), there still existed a
large town, called Chuth, between Charran and Mosul, as
he states in his commentary to the Pentateuch at the end
of section Noach. It is, properly speaking, the birth-
place of Abraham, as Maimonides (D30^ Rambam) states
in his Moreh, " that Abraham was bom at Chuth, and op-
posed the idolatry of the people of the place, who wor-
shipped the sun." It is also said in Baba Bathra, fol. 91 a,
"that Abraham was hidden three years in Chuth and
seven in Kardo (Ararat) , on account of the general perse-
cution which then prevailed." I have already stated that
many have sought for Chuth in the vicinity of Zidon,
since the Samaritans (Cuthians) claim to be of Zidonian
descent. (See Jos., Antiq., b. xiii., ch. xvii.)
Kir yp (ibid. xvi. 9), is probably the river Kur, which
has its sources east of the Black Sea, runs eastwardly and
falls into the Caspian Sea near Salian. Probably the
country near it is the Kir of the Bible.
Karkemish tr^03^3 (Jer. xlvi. 2). It is called
JVDp^p Karkission in Echa Babbethi to ch. i. 18, and
is the present town of Kerkisieh, on the River Euphrates,
486 APPENDIX.
where it is joined by the stream Chabur. (See T23
Chebar.)
Thiphsach nDSUl (1 Kings iv. 24) is the town of
Thaphsaki, to the north of Kerkesie, on the Euphrates.
Tadmor niDin (ibid. ix. 18). On the road jBrom Da-
mascus to the Euphrates, about two days' journey north-
east from the former, are found the ruins of Tadmor or
Pahnyra, in a sandy desert. Thus also is it said in Sdb-
bath, fol. 30 &, " The inhabitants of Tadmor dwell in a
sandy country." These ruins present remarkably large,
beautiful and magnificent remams of hoary antiquity, and
are equal to the ruins of Baal-bek. Among others is found
a ruined structure of marble, having the appearance of a
Synagogue, which is called {10715^ T^i^ "the Synagogue
of Solomon."
The river Chebar ^33 inj (Ezek. i. 1). We find two
rivers, now Chabur, having this name. The one rises in
the country of Diarrabiar and falls by Kerkisieh into the
Euphrates. The other, Chabur, rises to the southwest of
Lake Van, and joins the Tigris between Chesan-Cherfa
and Djezrieh. I have no means of ascertaining to which
of the two streams Ezekiel refers.
Thel Charsha Ntrnn Sn (Ezra ii. 59) is probably the
village of Tel al Chansa, for Charsa, situated between Mo-
sul and Nisibin.
Apharsathechai ^NDHD^SN (ib. iv. 9) denotes, as it is
said, the inhabitants of the former province Paraetacena
in Media.
Beth-Arbel 7N3^N n*3 (Hosea x. 14 ; see also Chap.
III., article Arbel) is perhaps the modem town of Ardebil,
to the west of the Caspian Sea, famous for the battle (of
Arbela) in which Alexander of Macedon overcame the
Persian King Darius. Several Jews formerly resided here,
but there are none left at present.
Chihnad 1073 (Ezek. xxvii. 23). Jonathan explains
APPENDIX. 487
this with Media, and means probably the ancient district
of Charmanda (changing B for L) in Media.
Chelam oVll (2 Sam. x. 16) is stated in ancient docu-
ments to be the town of Alama, east of Jordan on the
canton of Argob, and is perhaps identical with the fortress
of Ulama in the land of GilelUl, often mentioned in the
book of the Maccabees.
Pul and Lud nSl Sl3 (Isa. Ixvi. 19). I believe that
Pul signifies the country of Pamphilia, near Cilicia, in
which the city of Tarshish is situated, which is mentioned
in the passage cited in connexion with Pul. Or, it may be
the country of Paphlagonia, near Pontus. Lud, however,
I presume to be Lydia, which is to the south of Mysia, the
capital of which was Sardes, where the well-known im-
mensely rich King Croesus once resided.
In Talmud and Midrashim occur the following names,
concerning which I believe it requisite to give some ac-
count.
Ludkia K^pllS (Sabbath, 119 a; M^nachoth, 856; and
in Pesiktah Rabbethi, where it says, " Ludkia belongs to
Suria" KniD), is the little town of Ladikieh, situated close
to the sea, sixty English miles to the south of Antakia.
Until within six years several Jews lived here ; at which
time they removed to Damascus, Chaleb, &c. There is
found here an old S3niagogue.
Cuchelith jl* /llID of Kiddushin, 66 a, is, perhaps, the
country Calkis D*p73, mentioned in Yerushalmi Megilla i.,
and possibly, also, the DIpvDp Kochlikos of Megillath
Thaanith xii. ; it is the desert district Calchis, not far from
Antakia, or possibly the environs of the town of Colossaa,
on the banks of the Lykos in Phiygia.
Bagris Dnj3, mentioned in Megillath Antiochus, the
history of Hanukkah, as a city built by Bagris, gene-
ral of Antiochus Epiphanes, is probably the very old
destroyed Kallai or fort, called Bagris, which is situated on
the road from Chaleb to Antakia.
488 APPENDIX.
Kesipha Kfi^DS^ mentioned in Vayikra Rabbah v. as the
extensive district of Kesipha, is perhaps identical with
Casiphia of Ezra vii. 17, and is probably the very large
plain situated east of Chams, in the direction of the Eu-
phrates, where is found a mount called Djebl Chesaphia.
Piska KpD^fi, of Yerushalmi, end of Bikkurim, is proba-
bly Pisidia, near Galatia, in Asia Minor. In Pisidia was
a second Antiochia, the ruins of which are shown at the
present day, near the small town of Jalabatz.
Kepudka6 ♦JtpTlflp (see above, article Caphtorim) , is pro-
bably Cappadocia, in Anatolia, substituting, as usual wiUi
all words of Greek derivation in the Talmud, the p k for
the Latin c* Formerly many Jews lived there.
Cathphi ♦SflD (see Rashi to Exod. xiii. 16). I deem this
to be the present Turkish district Kotavenkiar, in the
northern part of Anatolia ; its capital is the town of Bnisia.
Rodos Dim, mentioned in Yerushalmi Abodah Zarah,
ch. iii. Dnm KoSv, "The image of Rodos,'' so also in
Midrash Shemuel xix. This image is the celebrated Co-
lossus, which stood in the Grecian island of Rhodes. It
was considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient
world.
Italia of Greece fV StT N^SnD^N of Bereshith Rabbah
66, I suppose to be Calabria (the n^Sp of the same
book, 23) ; it is a part of that which was formerly called
Magna Gnecia, " Great Greece," and is extremely fertile.
In it is the sea-port town of
Perandissin pDnjna, of Erubin, ch. iv. § 1, the ancient
Brundusium, and the present Brindisi.
Paltilum DiS^dSq (end of Makkoth ; but in Echa Rab-
bethi, ch. v. 18, it is called DiS^Sd^D Pitlilus). It is
axjcording to the passages cited, one hundred and twenty
mill, or ninety English miles, from the city of Rome. In
* Which, however, was no doubt always pronounced like K by the
ancient Romans. — TaANSLATOR.
APPENDIX. 489
the commencement of the Life of Josephus, also in Antiq.,
b. xviii. ch. viii., it is called Puteoli, and by the modem
Italians Pozzuoli ; or it is, perhaps, the modem Pitigliana,
where a tolerably large number of Jews reside.
Athuna NJIHK of Bechoroth 8 h, and Echa Rabbethi i.
1, is the ancient and famous city of Athens in Greece.
Tiria >tH*t3 of Vayikra Rabbah xxx., and Midrash She-
muel viii., is the formerly celebrated Troia (Troy), the
ruins of which in Anatolia., opposite the island of Tenedos,
in the Archipelago, are visible to this day. It may also
be the town Tirra, likewise in Anatolia, about three dajra'
journey fix)m Smyrna (Ismir) . Here reside many Jews,
who have an old S3niagogue.
Karthigna >tiJ*mp of Menachoth, 110 a*, (Yerushalmi
Sabbath vii., Yerushahni Sanhedrim xii.) signifies the an-
cient well-known Carthage in North Africa, near where
the present Tunis stands.
Kiriah nnp of Tosephtah Maaser Sheni iv., I believe
to be the present town of Cirena, in North Africa, in the
country of Al Barka, to the east of the state Al Trablos
(Tripoli). Many Jews reside in this vicinity.
Terbanth jTi3^D, of Yerushalmi Megillah iv., is the
very ancient city of Derbent, on the westem shore of the
Caspian Sea ; it has remarkably old and strong fortificar
tions, which were built at the time of Alexander of Mace-
don. Many Jews are yet living here at the present day.
Buli ♦^la of Yerushalmi Shekalim vii., and Abodah
Zarah 42 5, is probably Constantinople (Byzantium), as it
* a'lro 'fi^D "»iyD D'Disraisr dh'^k nw Sx-^bt nw pT30 'jan'ip ij?i -n^o 3i "lOK
D'Di8r2» UTV^vh «Si Sk")b?'S vh pTJD I'K niTO 'sSd 'janipm "Rab said,
From Zor to Karthagn6 they know Israel and their Father in heaven ; from
Zor towards the west, and from Karthagn6 towards the east, they know
neither Israel nor their Father in heaven/' I believe that here an ex-
change of names has taken place, and should be ''from Tyre to the east,
and from Karthagn^ at the west," since these were the respective pod*
tions of Tyre and Carthage.
490 APPENDUL
was also called by some Bull, whence the Tiukish appd-
lation, StambouL
Beth-Balthin or Biram DTn 1? pnSn HO (Boeh Hasha-
nah, 23 6, and Sanhedrin, 108 a, On*m ♦nai r3T ^ t*^
large spring of Biram"). To the north of the town of
Hitt) on the Euphrates, the entire Jewish congregation of
which consists of none but Karaites, on the caravan route
from Damascus to Bagdad, and not far firom the Ht^
Euphrates, is found the large and wonderful spring oi
Biram. It has three openings, from one of which issues
forth sweet and hot water, as in Tiberias ; firom another,
very cold water, greatly charged with salt, so that salt
is found after it evaporates; and from the third issues
Petroleum (earth-pitch) or Naphtha : this is gathered up
and sent off all around the whole of the vicinity, where
it is chiefly used in building, instead of lime and mortar,
whence the houses of the district, and particularly those
in Hitt, have quite a black appearance.'*'
Galia Jt^Sj (ibid. 26 a), is generally believed to be
Gallia, Gaul, or France ; but it can scarcely be supposed
that Rabbi Akiba should have travelled so far as France,
and his journey to Galia is spoken of in the pa^ssage cited.
I therefore hold it to be more reasonable to believe that
Galatia in Asia Minor is here referred to, which was situ-
* I believe that this will enable us to expound the difficult passage of
Gen. xi. 3, lOPf? DH^ tl^il ^ICPfni " And the slime served them for
mortar'' (English version) ; and I suppose that this Chemar is nothing
else than the Naphtha, since it is used even at the present day for build-
ing purposes, to cement the stones together, instead of mortar made of
lime. Saadiah actually translates it with Al Kaphr, as he has rendered
also the 1333 which occurs before in Gen. vi. 14 ; which clearly proves
that Saadiah understood by Chemar the same substance as under Kopher,
to wit, the earth-pitch or Naphtha. I am induced to believe that m"\K3
'>Dn (ibid. xiv. 10) do not mean clay -pits, since nnX3 signifies wells,
springs, and is not identical with nni3 pits ; and that hence the slime
must be something fluid, something rushing from a source, — unquestion-
ably, therefore, " Pitch, naphtha wells, or springs."
APPENDIX. 491
ated not far from the river Halis.* It is likely enough that
Rabbi Akiba, who often journeyed to the north (of Pales-
tine), for instance to Africa^ in the passage cited above
from Rosh Hashanah, to Charzan^ as in Aboth of Rabbi
Nathan xvi., may also have travelled to 6alati% which
was likewise in the north. I nevertheless found a pas-
sage in Yebamoth, fol. 63 a, which almost clearly proves
that Galia means Gaul or France; the words are iVfiK
K»03DkS H'hiO nWin nW^aO " Even the ships which go
from Galia to Ispamia" (Spain), i. e. vessels voyaging be-
tween countries not far remote from each other, and
which consequently have not to come over a long dis-
tance. This, however, leaves us no other way of explain-
ing it, except to assume Gallia, Gaul or France, to be the
Talmudic Galia ; and after all, it is possible that Rabbi
Akiba may have undertaken a voyage to France.
Bagdath mJ3, of Kiddushin, 71 6, Ketuboth, 7 J, is the
city of Bagdad, on the Tigris, which the Kalif Al Mansur
built, or rather rebuilt, enlarged, and beautified (since it
was in existence several hundred years before), in the year
* The aathor introduces the following^ which I append as a note : '* I
have ascertained from ancient docmnents, that the language of the inhabi-
tants of that country has a strong resemblance to the German. As Rashi
says to Deut. iii. 9, ' The Emorites called it (the Hermon) Senir/ that
it resembles the Grerman Schnee, English Snow — hence Snow Mountain —
and that the word is (almost) identical in the languages of Canaan and
Germany. A colony is said to have gone from Galatia and settled in the
West, Germany and France. As I have already observed, p. 453, there was
in that district a town called Germanic, or Germania (see above, article
Germania) ; so were the settlements of Ashkenaz likewise in the north
(of Palestine), as has been stated already ; and it would appear likely,
that from there emigrations took place to Germany proper ; whence, then,
the name of Ashkenas for Germany ; since it was actually peopled by a
colony out of Galatia, Ashkenaz, or Germania. The names of Ashkenai
and Germania, occurring in Scripture and the Targumim, cannot possibly
be rendered with Germany (Deutshland) of the present day; nevertheless,
the usual nomenclature is not without a good reason, as has been just
exhibited.''
492 APPENDIX.
4523 (763). There reside at pcesent a very large number
of Jews in Bagdad, under their chief, Uie scH^alled Prince
of Babylon 733 Si? K^tS^i, who is in great esteem with
the authorities of the place.
Sardia K*nD, of Bereshith Rabbah xxxiv., is the island
of Sardinia, in the Mediterranean.
Britania Jt^iKOn^ of Pesiktah Rabbethi xv., is Britain,
England.
Astherkanith n^ip^flDK, of Bezah, 39 6, " salt of Asther-
kanith," Baba Bathrah, 20 a, Menachoth, 21 5, is probably
the town of Astrakhan on the Caspian Sea, where much
salt is obtained.
In Baba Bathrah, 56 a, Keni Op of Gen. xv. 19, is ex-
plained with KPlinSJ Naphthucha. This is surely an in-
correct reading, and should be H^rsM or n**fllj or N*03i
and means flVDi Nebaioth, i. e. the Nabathians (see Chap.
IV., article Nebaioth). The princes of Kedar ^1p ♦N^B^J
of Ezekiel xxvii. 21, is rendered by Jonathan with ♦^^il
t33i " chiefs of Nebat," i. e. Nebathia, since Kedar and
Nebaioth are almost synonjnnous, or at least placed often
in juxtaposition. (See also Bereshith Rabbah xliv., and
Yerushalmi Shebiith vi.)
There is farther mentioned in the same passage, Ardiskos
DlpDmy, also used as an elucidation of Keni ; but we
find this name as a town not far from Tob A in (see oh. iii,
article 31D p^? in Erubin, 29 a; wherefore I think we
ought to read DlpDlOHT Darmoskos, for Ardiskos, i. e.
the environs of Damascus, which is also called pB^O*)T
Darmesek (1 Chron. xviii. 5); and actually the above-
cited passage from the Yerushalmi Shebiith has Damesek
instead of Ardiskos, which confirms my hypothesis.
ADDENDA
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE SaCALLED YEHUD
CHEBR AND THE TEN TRIBES.
Under tlie name of Yehud Chebr are generally under-
stood tlie descendants of Heber the Kenite 'jpn 13n , the
father-in-law of Moses, or Jethro. "Now Heber the
Kenite, who was of the children of Chobab, the father-in-
law of Moses, had severed himself from the Kenites" (Jud.
iv. 1) ; they are also called 331 '33 Bn6 Rechab, " the Re-
chabitea" — " These are the Kenitea that came of Chemath,
the father of the house of Eechab" (1 Cbron. 11. 56).
They abstain from wine, and only dwell iu tents (Jer,
XXXV. 8, 9). In Pesiktah Rabbethi xxxi., it is said
331 p 31JV ':3 D'yon fix "The land of Sinim (of
Isaiah xlix. 11), is the land of Jonadab the son of Rechab."
Prom Bereshith Rabbah lii., it appears clearly that Sinim
is the land |0'n Theman (the south), or Yemen in Arabia,
which is verified to this day. There are many traces of
them at present ; but they live entirely isolated, will not
be recognised, and shun, or rather hate, all intercourse and
every connexion with the other Jews. They have never. I
I theless not escaped the searching look of our brothers.
They only sojourn in Arabia, and for the raOBt part *
I the western shore of the Red Sea, and are engaged sole^
494 APPENDIX.
in the raising of cattle. In the vicinity of Junbua^ a sea-
port on the eastern shore of the Red Sea, they are found
at times labouring as smiths, and have commercial con-
nexions with other Arabic tribes, that is, they barter with
them. They are called Arab Sebth, i. e. Arabs who keep
the seventh day Sabbath, and are generally esteemed and
feared; so that they form, so to say, a gigantic people,
whose power and greatness excites fear. They only speak
Hebrew and Arabic, and will form no connexion or acy
quaintance with the Jews ; and should they be recognised
as Jews, or if one should enter into conversation with
them on the subject, they will quickly deny their origin,
and assert that they are but of the common Arabic de-
scent. They will not touch another Arab, much less will
they eat anything with him, even those things which are
permitted to Jews ; and they alwa3rs stand at some dis-
tance from the other Arabs, should their barter trade at
times bring them together, so as not to come into any
mediate or immediate contact. They always appear on
horseback and armed, and people assert that they have
noticed the fringes, rV)i% commanded in Scripture on
their covering and clothing.
In the time of Abraim Pacha, when the country was
everjrwhere secure, and men were able to travel in all direc-
ions without being molested, two Jewish mechanics, the one
a tinsmith and the other a silversmith, left Zafed with
their tools, in the hope of finding employment ai&ong the
distant Arabs. They in consequence crossed the Jordan,
and went in a southeastern direction towards the moun-
tains of Hauran. They actually obtained there much work
among Arab tribes, and stayed some time among them.
They could eat only bread, butter, honey, oil, and similar
permitted things, and they thus sat one evening apart
from the Arabs who were eating, to take their supper by
themselves. Several Arabs on horseback had come from
' THE TEHUD OHEBR. 495
the sooth, in order to barter with the tribes of the district.
They remarked those who sat eating isolated from the
others, and asked, why they sat apart, and why they had a
different meal from the others, and who they were ? They
were told that these men were Yehud (Jews) . " But,**
asked the strangers in return, " do you believe that we
have never seen any Yehud before, that you wish to ibipose
on us these dwarfs as Yehud ? We often barter with the
Yehud Chebr ; but they are a giant race, and it is impos-
sible that these little creatures can belong to the same
family. Besides, no Yehud would ever eat an3rthing with
another Arab, or come in so close a connexion and contact
with you as these." The Arabs of the district had then
to explain to the strangers that there are actually many
other Jews besides the Yehud Chebr, although they differ
fix)m them.
They are occasionally seen in Palestine, but very seldom,
and then, as it were, in secrecy and unrecognised. Some
even say that several have been met with in Jerusalem, but
they never make themselves known ; although the reason
of this singular silence, and this anxious desire to escape
detection, has remained hitherto a profound secret ; at the
same time it is clearly ascertained that they are Jews in
every sense of the word, live according to our laws,
and are also somewhat acquainted with our learned
men. It is now some years ago that two Ashkenazim
of Tiberias went into the cave where the worthy martyr,
Rabbi Akiba, lies buried. Just as they were coming out
of the cave, there passed by two Arab horsemen, who
observed them. The Arabs addressed them in Hebrew,
and asked them what Zaddik (pious, righteous man, —
this being the name by which the Arabs and Bedouins
designate our ancient and modem learned men) lies
buried there ; and when ansewred, Rabbi Akiba, they de-
scended ftom their horses and went into the cave. The
496
two Ashkenazim without heard them utter a toaching and
mournful prayer in the Hebrew language ; and they asked
them, on coming out, who they were ; to which they an-
swered, " We are Yehud Chebr ; but we adjure you, by
the name of the Holy Grod of Israel, that you tell not soon
after your return home in Tiberias that you have seen us,
and dhly speak of it after some time, when we are away
ft*om your district and distant fvoia your environs.** With
these words they hastened away and soon were out of sight.
It seems, therefore, that they were afi^aid, m case the ac-
count of their appearance had been divulged in the city,
of being perhaps overtaken, and thereby probably com-
pelled to make themselves fully known.
They have also a chief among themselves, who is almost
regarded as a regent.
About twenty-five years ago, the serif of Zanaa (see
above, Uzal) resolved to make a pilgrimage to Mekka. It
is usual to make this pilgrimage by sea : they sail up the
Red Sea as far as Djida, and proceed thence by land to
Mekka. But this serif resolved to make the whole jour-
ney by land. He supplied himself, therefore, and all his
large retinue and escort, with everything requisite for tins
long journey ; as, however, their road lay necessarily in
part through the great sandy desert, they soon got into the
greatest difficulties, for they lost their way, and roamed
about, and could not find any egress. They were already
in the greatest distress and danger, all their provisions,
especially water, were consumed, and they saw clearly
that they must perish, since they were constantly wander-
ing in the desert, without the means of extricating them-
selves : when they had at length the happiness to come
to a somewhat more fertile district, which convinced them
that they had traversed the greater part of the desert. They
now pushed eagerly forward, though nearly famished, with-
out strength and longing for water ; but they coidd find
THE YEHUD GHEBR. 497
no vestige of inhabitants. But towards sunset they ob-
served at a distance, so to say, a whole town of tents. This
revived them, and they hastened on with the last remains
of their strength, since they now hoped to be among their
brothers, the Arabic tribes. They soon came near a very
large and beautiful tent, and the leader of the advance of
the caravan called out with a very loud voice : ^^ For God's
sake, water ! water ! we are all famishing this moment."
Thereupon, a very tall Arab came out from the tent and
exclaimed in an angry tone : " Kelb (dog), who dares to
cry so loudly in the hour of devotion ?" The Mahomedan
then told him of the great danger of the company, and
begged him to give them a little water. But the other
asked : " Dost thou know where thou art now, and where
thou hast lifted up thy voice so loudly ? Here is the tent
of our worthy Melek (king), and we are even now engaged
in our afternoon prayer (nniO)? and thou hast disturbed
both him and us with thy outcry in our devotions." The
stranger looked into the tent, and saw a whole assembly
of venerable gigantic Arabs, who all were standing still,
and prajdng in a low tone of voice (probably the silent
prayer of the eighteen benedictions mtS^y niOtS^) • Very
soon aft;er, water was oflfered to the whole assembly,
though without touching any of them, and they were then
furnished with everything requisite for the pursuit of
their journey, and a guide wa^ sent along with them, who
showed and described to them the best and shortest route
by which they could reach Mekka, where they arrived
aft;er some weeks' farther journeying. Upon inquiring
who their benefactors were, they were answered quite
briefly, " Yehud Chebr."
I learned the above from a trustworthy person of Zafed,
who was soon after this occurrence in Zanaa, and obtained
the whole account of it from the above-mentioned Serif,
who had himself experienced it. He has become, moreover,
82
498 APPENDIX.
since then an exceedingly great firiend of the Jews^ and
treats them with the greatest respect.
Of late, much pains have been taken to obtain more
reliable particulars of the Yehud Chebr. I, myself, em-
ployed all available means to obtain success. At length,
myself and some honourable Israelites, who felt the deep-
est in the matter, agreed to seek out a suitable person who
should be able to travel through Arabia as a pretended
Mahomedan Arab pilgrim, and to employ every available
eflfort to obtain a correct account of the Yehud Chebr,
and to enter into friendly intercourse with them. We at
length obtained a man suited to our purposes, an African
Jew, named Rabbi Amram, who was then sojourning in
Zafed, and who had friendly relations with several Arab
tribes, and knew their manners and habits quite accurately,
and was thus enabled to enact well the part of a pilgrim.
We supplied him with everything requisite, and with docu-
ments signed by the principal Rabbis of Jerusalem and
Zafed. I wrote him out his line of travel, pointed out to
him which road he was chiefly to follow, indicating to him,
with all possible accuracy, the places where they have their
principal connexions ; and supplied him with two copies
of my Geography of Palestine j^nNH niN13n ; upon which
he commenced his journey from Jerusalem in the month
of Elul, 5606 (Sept. 1846). About a year from that time,
I received a letter from him via Cairo, dated at Zanaa, in
South Arabia, in which he informed me that whilst journey-
ing by land between Aden and Mocha, he was plundered
by a hostile tribe of Arabs, but that his documents were
all safe; that at present the northern Arab tribes were
engaged in mutual strife and warfare, wherefore he was at
that moment unable to pursue his journey in the desired
direction, and he was compelled to tarry some time at
Aden, till quiet should be restored. But that he had
THE TEN TRIBES. 499
learned from a Bure and Telial>le source, that in an eastern
direction there is a very uncommonly numerous and ex-
tensive tribe of Jewish Arabs, universally called the tribe
of Benjamin |^0*i3 J33B^, which he would visit after peace
should be restored ; and that it might be a long time before
he would write again, since he would report nothing which
is not strictly correct, and found perfectly reliable by his
own personal conviction.
THE LATBST ACCOUNTS CONCERNING THE LOST TEN TRIBES.
Before I proceed to give the important accounts con-
cerning the present existence of the Ten Tribes, I will
mention the various explanations of the Talmud and Mi-
drashim of the names of the countries and towns whither
they were carried by the kings of Assyria.
We read in 2 Kings xviii. 11, " And the king of Ashur
carried Israel away to Ashur, and settled them in Chalach,
Chabor, and by Nehar (the river of) Gozan, and the towns
of Media ;" and in 1 Chron. v. 26 is added, " and Harah."
The Talmud Kiddushin, 72 a, explains ynn Ht Tl3n
" Chabor is Chadeb," and I have already stated above that
Chadeb is identical with Adiabene.
It is farther said there pUU It jHJ ^Hi " Nehar Gozan is
Ginzak." In the middle ages, there was yet standing a
town called Ganzakia, on the most northeastern point of
the Lake Ooroomiah, about where the modem village
Shebister stands ; the vicinity yet bears the name of Adir
Beizan, very similar with Gaizan = Gozan. The Jews re-
siding there generally call the district no |t3p D^fi " Little
Persia, or Media," wherefore this town is called in Bereshith
Kabbah xxxiii. no 7B^ DUU Ginzak of Media. But, also,
much farther north, on the River Aras, a day's journey
before it joins the Kur, is, at the present day, a village
named Ganzak (?).
600 APPENDIX. .
It is stated next pon ir HO ♦"UT "The cities of
Madai mean Hamdan, or the country around Hamdan,
the ancient Ekbatana*' (see above, article Hamdaji) . Again,
it is said, '^ Some think that the cities of Madai signify
lilHi Nehund and the OtS^IO ^J^D town of Mushechi,
which is near the above/' Nehund is no doubt the mo-
dem town of Nehavend, one day's journey south from
Hammadan ; and perhaps Kerach Mushechi is the modem
Kirmansho, one day's journey west from Nehavend. It
is not likely that the country of Mush, situated to the
west of Lake Van, can be understood by Mushechi, be-
cause it is at too great a distance from Nehavend.
The Chaldean translation of Rabbi Joseph of 1 Chron.
V. 26, renders Hara with N/Dp nit3 the dark mountain,
(see above, article Africa). Some suppose that Hara signi-
fies the country of Aria, by which name the ancient his-
torians denote the land of Media. Chalach ilSn is not
explained, and there can be no doubt that here is under-
stood the district of Diarbekir, still called Chalah.
Gozan may also denote the Ganges in India ; there is,
however, this objection : the Bible says, " He carried them
away to Ashur," and it does not appear that the Ganges
can be considered as belonging to the Assyrian empire,
since it never extended thus far.
It would be perfectly ridiculous to look for the Ten
Tribes in the countries just named ; since these lands, with
their various classes of inhabitants, are perfectly well
known ; wherefore it is impossible to predicate of those
who dwell there in the language of Isaiah xlix. 9, " To
say to those bound, Go forth, and to those who are in dark-
ness. Be known ;" or ibid. 12, " Behold, these vrill come
from afar, and these from the north and the west, and the
others from the land of Sinim." There can be no doubt
that the exiles left their new places of abode and virandered
away into other parts of the world, where they settled.
THE TEN TRIBES. 501
We inay admit that this emigration may have heen for the
most part eastward into Asia ; but Africa also must have
received many of the exiles. " And it shall come to pass
on that day that the great comet shall be blown, and they
shall come who are lost in the land of Ashur, and those
who are cast out in the land of Egjrpt" (Isa. xxvii. 13)..
Thus also related the trustworthy ♦Jin llhn Eldad the
Danite, who arrived from there in the west several cen-
turies ago, that many of these tribes reside beyond the
river of Ethiopia t^lD *)nj in the land of the Ludin and
Kaka, consequently in Africa. It is said in Yerushalrai
Sanhedrin, x., and in Echa -rRabbethi, 73 a, that many of
the Ten Tribes are beyond the river Sambatyon.
I will now proceed to give the latest traces of the ex-
istence of one, or rather several Israelitish kingdoms, with
independent power, having their own regents, standing
armies, and their own coinage ; in brief, existing in the
greatest power and prosperity.
It is now about twenty-five years ago that a Mahome-
dan dervish came to Damascus from Eastern Asia, and
had with him a gold coin which he was desirous of ex-
changing for the current money of the country. On the
one side was in Hebrew square characters flWoO nnn
nSon pnV* WUnt*? " Under the rule of our Lord, the king
Isaac." And, on being asked how he had obtained this
money, he told briefly and with great simplicity, without
being able to give a correct solution of the various ques-
tions put to him, that he had been engaged on a pious (i. e.
begging) journey of several months' duration, setting out
from Adjim in Persia in a northeastern direction. He
reached, so he told, a great, mighty, and flourishing empire,
and came to a very large city, where he excited the greatest
curiosity through his ridiculous beggary and singular dress,
and was summoned one day into a handsome and elegant
502 APPENDIX.
palace. He found a majestic-looking person sitting on a
species of throne, who asked him in the Persian language,
whence he came ; to which he answered, that he was a
liahomedan dervish, and came from the southwest. The
prince then asked, if there were any Jews in the country
whence he came, and desired some account of them. The
simple dervish knew not that he was speaking to a Jewish
prince; and began, therefore, to paint them as a con-
temptible and weak people, and that it was not wortli
while to speak much about them. He soon noticed, that
the prince was strongly excited at what he told, and i^
peared to be getting angry at his picture of the Jews.
Simple, however, as he was, he was, nevertheless, cunnii^
enough to give another turn to his words, and he now
commenced to speak of them in more flattering terms^
and praised them as a good and peaceful people, althou^
weak and not independent, and endeavoured to repre-
sent them in many respects as a quite distinguished class
of men. The prince was greatly rejoiced at this, and
commanded, at the coucusion of the audience, to give him
three hundred pieces of gold. More information than
this could not be obtained from the simple dervish. The
weight of these coins was about that of a double ducat,
and they were made of the purest gold. This, I learned
from a creditable person, who had himself obtained one of
these coins from the dervish, and had the above from his
own mouth.
However defective this description of this ignorant
traveller may be, and however much that is fabulous may
be in the details, since the dervish, true to the manners
of his order, troubled himself about nothing which had no
relation to self; it is, nevertheless, certain, that the main
part of the story must be true, for these gold coins in
question are sufficient proof of the existence of a Jewish
ruling prince.
THE TEN TRIBES. 508
It is also now three years ago that I saw a distinguished
Indian dervish in the streets of Jerusalem. I entered
into conversation with him^ and I observed that there ap-
peared something worthy of belief in his words. I invited
him to accompany me home^ and conversed a considerable
time with him concerning his long and distant journeys
into Asia. I endeavoured to draw many things from him,
and put to him many and various questions, through which
I could speedily notice whether his words were true and
not in contradiction with each other ; and I almost con-
vinced myself that he was worthy- of confidence. He told
me that at a distance of four months' journey from the city
of Cashmir, in the northeastern part of Persia, in a north-
east direction, there is a large Jewish kingdom, the seat of
the regent being in the city of Ajulun. Nearly the whole
country is surrounded with immensely high and inaccessi-
ble mountains, forming a kind of fortified wall — ^this is
on three sides, and on the fourth there is a rocky pass,
forming, so to say, a large entrance, where Jewish soldiers
are stationed. These Jews have commercial connexions
with their neighbours, but it is extremely rare that
strangers are permitted to enter the country within the
justrmentioned gate. This dervish also related that he
had formerly a travelling companion, another dervish,
who had travelled in that country, and had been fortunate
enough to sojourn for some time in the city of Ajulun,
which is situated on the frontier. He told some wonderful
tales of the beauty and the splendour of this town, es-
pecially of the many and magnificent Synagogues, which,
in a measure, are resplendent with pure ' gold. The in-
habitants are all Jews, with the sole exception of their
slaves, who are non-Israelites out of the vicinity. He
could not recollect any mbre of what he had told him con-
cemmg this Jewish kingdom.
The report brought by this dervish, agrees almost en-
504 APPENDIX.
tirely with that of the former one, so that the regent
AaaCj who bestowed on the first the gold coins, is perhaps
the same who lives in Ajulun.'*'
It is about nineteen years past that the Jewish congre-
gation of Zafed sent a messenger to Yemen, to make there,
as usual everywhere, collections for the poor of Palestine.
He tarried some time in Zanaa (see above, Uzal) , and ob-
served there one day in the Synagogue a remarkable-
looking person ; and on making inquiries concerning him,
he was told, that he had arrived but a few days previ-
ously, and alleged himself to be of the tribe of Dan. The
messenger expressed the wish to become somewhat better
acquainted with the stranger, and had a request preferred
to him, either to permit him to pay him a visit, or for the
other to call at his lodgings. The Danite accepted the
latter proposition, and made his appearance at the house
of the messenger on the following day at the precise hour
appointed. The stranger was a gigantic and very hand-
some man, who had something remarkable, honourable,
and inspiring in his physiognomy* He had a fine long
beard, and his hair, which was black and long, hung
down over his back, and gave him a peculiar, noble, and
majestic appearance. His costume was partly oriental.
Around his body he wore a broad belt, on which was em-
broidered in large Hebrew letters *|nT ♦Sy tfftli \1 *n*
n^N vy pS^flB^, " Dan shall be a serpent on the way, an
adder on the path" (Gen. xlix. 17). By his side hung a
large and broad sword. He spoke only pure Hebrew but
said very little, and betrayed in his speech a great degree
* The Translator has taken the liberty to omit an anecdote of the ad-
venture of a Calcutta Jew, which is too improbable to meet with credence
although, if a Jewish kingdom does exist in the mountains of India it
might be true notwithstanding its improbability. But the country has
been too often traversed to leave space for any large country not yet dis-
covered.
THE TEN TRIBES. 505
of reserve and caution, and his words evinced much refleo-
tion. He lived very sparingly, mostly on bread and
water, slept but few hours, and seemed always to be spiri-
tually engaged. He kept himself scrupulously clean, a^d
made frequent ablutions; in brief, his whole demeanour
resembled greatly that of the Essenes, as described by Jose-
phus and Philo ; and his entire appearance was such that
it gave one an excellent idea of the ancient prophets and
seers of God.
Immediately after his entering into the messenger's
house, he inquired carefully after the condition of the Holy
City of Jerusalem, Zion, the destroyed Temple, and the
situation of his brothers the Israelites in the Holy Land.
The messenger thereupon gave him a vivid picture of
them, the Holy City and the Temple. The other fell
then suddenly with his face to the groimd, and commenced
to weep and sob bitterly, and it was near half an hour be-
fore he was able to speak again.
The messenger on his part inquired likewise after the
situation of our brothers, the children of Dan, but he
received merely the brief reply, that they formed an inde-
pendent state, situated several months' journey from therej
beyond the great sandy desert, in an eastern direction,
were governed by their own regent, whom they call N^B^i
Nahssi or prince, and who is the bravest and the most dis-
tinguished for piety among them, and that they led a most
peaceful and happy life. More than this he did not say.
When asked for what purpose he had undertaken the
great journey thither, he answered, that he was com-
missioned thereto by the Nahssi, since they had not re-
ceived for a long time any accoimt of the situation of their
brothers in the west, and wished, therefore, to obtain some
reliable information concerning them. The messenger
asked, at length, whether he could or would permit him to
make the journey with him, in order to visit the childiea
I
506 APPENDIX.
of Daii« and in case this could be done, who was to bring
him back again. After a brief reflection, the Danite
promised him sacredly to have him restored to his pre-
sei^ abode in a tew months. But the simple messenger
recalled his word, and said, that on account of the busi-
ness of his mission he could not undertake so distant
a joiumey. This displeased his visiter so greatly, seeing
that he broke his word so quickly and easily, that he
spoke not another word, rose irom his seat and len ^'^^
on the spot. A few hours afterwards, the mes^sen^r r^
pented of his folly, and wished to reconcile him ^^:"" and
actually resoh'ed to undertake the journey in his c«>mpacy.
and hastened into the town in cider to setrk him : bur in
vain, as no trace could be di5o:>ver^ of him. az^i he Lai
disappeared! as suddenly as he had come : and ir is quite a
mvsterv how he could traverse alone, wiiout cartl*r or
pn>visions. the great and dangerxHis sandy desert, ^^ as
it is with serpents and other p."kisixit:Kis rerwiies-
When now the xi»ss^n::er came r^ack to 21^V»i -jji-i rr-
*V « « V ^. A. SI, B a. . . >.a,a^.V &««. ^mmt'.m ..A^a. .k «*_ ■■ ^^ > -^ .^« _ _ - - . •_ . «
ai.... -.\-r\>. 0.^«. --... -• -'. . . ,«a -'* -"r.-c"- * ^-s -• --^ - ^ ..
ser. I .*."." .*.v. tsvt\ijLl niis^i.'-i t. tl.T Z^ir-itr**. Tji-f?^ 1 t— i ir.
THE TEN TRIBES. 507
But he said, ^^ As is well known, the great sandy desert
which we have to traverse is infested with poisonous ser-
pents ; I am willing to venture everything with thee ; but
know, that so soon as one of us should be injured, if even
ever so slightly, by a serpent or any other reptile, I shall
view it as a bad omen, as a signal that we cannot and dare
not pursue this journey, and I will then turn about in-
stantly." They now provided themselves with aU things
possible for their dangerous route, and actually travelled
for six days in an eastern direction without any mishap ;
but on the seventh day a poisonous serpent bit the man
from Zanaa. They had the proper remedies with them,
by the application of which, his life was saved ; but he
remained firm to his resolve to return at once, and Rabbi
Baruch could not induce him by any persuasion whatever
to continue on their way, and he saw himself thus com-
pelled to return with him, and the whole journey was
therefore frustrated.*
Although this is not the place, I cannot avoid giving the
mournful end of this venerable Rabbi Baruch Mosheh. As
said, he was compelled to return to Zanaa, from whence
he went to Senaar. The prince (serif) of Yemen, who re-
sided in this city, suffered much from epilepsy, and all the
remedies that had been applied by his physicians had failed
to relieve him. Rabbi Mosheh, who, as said, was also a
practical physician, imdertook to cure him, and was in
fact fortunate enough to restore the prince almost com-
pletely, so that he bad no attack for a considerable length
of time. The Rabbi thereby became naturally a great
favourite with him, through which cause he drew upon
* The author alludes here to the mysterious connexion between the
blessing of Jacob to Dan^ and the alleged fact of his descendants living
in a country to reach which a desert filled with serpents and adders has
to be crossed, and also, that the above-named commissary should have
had the words in question embroidered on his belt.
608 ^PEHDIX.
himself the enyy and hatred of the other physicianB, who
therefore endeavoured to convince their master by all
means that this Rabbi Moeheh was a spy of the Sublime
Forte at Constantinople. Although the prince was per-
fectly well satisfied ihat the chai^ was nothing but
calumny, he found himself at length compelled to yield,
and to promote the downfall of his benefactor. In his
palace garden he had confined in a strong cage a ferocious
lion, who tore to pieces any one who came near him.
The prince one day took a walk with Rabbi Mosheh in the
garden, and led him, apparently by accident, but entirely
by design, close paat the lion, in order to rid himself by
hia aid of bis new physician. The lion jumped up furiously
from his itur, as though to tear the intended victim to
pieces, but remained suddenly standing still, looked steadily
at the innocent man, and laid himself down again. The
prince stood astonished, and was now firmly convinced of
the innocence of this pious man, since he was protected
by the hand of a Superior Power. But the furious calum-
niators, more cruel than a fierce lion, did not relinquish
their persecutions ; and they then brought forward new
and false proofs of his treason, so that he was necessarih'
regarded as a most dangerous person for the prince anil
the whole country, and from the evil consequences ol
which nothing but his death could save them. Th(
stupid and weak prince saw himself now in a measun
compelled to resolve on his destruction, and gave th<
order, that when he again was about to appear at court
to induce him to enter the garden, where he was to b
shot ; which command was executed on the following day
It is customary in that country not to inter those whi
have been convicted of high treason, but to have thei
bodies thrown into the open field, to be devoured by thi
birds and wild beasts. Their property also is confiscate*
by the prince. Rabbi Mosheh's corpse was treated witi
THE TEN TBIBES. 509
the same indignity, and it was cast without the city on the
same spot where lay the remains of many malefactors.
But how were people astonished to find that he lay there
for several weeks and still remained untouched by birds
and beasts of prey, and whilst these terrible guests were
assembled over the carcasses and devoured them greedily,
they did not defile the remains of this pious suflferer. The
prince heard of this wonderful occurrence, and was now
convinced a second time, though, alas ! too late, that he
had been innocent. He therefore commanded instantly
to have him brought into the city, and had him interred
in his palace garden as a martyr, with the greatest de-
monstrations of honour and respect, and had a handsome
monument erected on the grave, and permission was given
to every one to visit it as a place holy to the memory of
a mojctyTy and it is now known as Zadik Baruch Mus6,
i. e. the pious Baruch Mosheh, and is generally visited,
especially by the Jews of that neighbourhood, as a sacred
place of devotion.
This remarkable narrative I obtained from the mouth
of a creditable Jew from Senaar, who was an eye-witness
of this fearful event, and had often visited the monument
to perform his devotions. •
Soon after, about twelve years ago, the Russian consul
in Beirut received notice from the consul-general of his
government at Alexandria, that all the property and ef-
fects of this innocent and pious man had been forwarded
by the Serif of Senaar to the government of Egypt, in
order to transmit them to his relatives, whom he left in
Zafed, consisting of a wife and one son ; who afterwards
were duly put in possession of the property, through the
intervention of the consuls.
My friend Moses JafiS, of Hebron, who was sent several '
years ago as messenger of his city to the East Indies, and
510 APPENDIX.
who feels much interest for any information which may
lead to the discovery of the lost tribes, told me not
long since that he had to undertake another mission
to that country ; wherefore 1 urged him strongly to take
all possible pains to procure us some definite and correct
account on this subject. I told him plainly my views
of the matter, and pointed out the countries where there
had already been discovered some traces of the Ten
Tribes. He promised to let me hear whatever he might
learn ; accordingly, on the 23d of Tishry, 5608 (October,
1847), I received his first letter by the English India mail,
and I give it in part literally, leaving out only uninterest-
ing matters.
" Bombay, Tuesday, Elul 12th, 5607.
" I visited the governor of Aden (in Yemen), who re-
ceived me very friendly, and inquired after the object of
my journey. He asked me, ^Why I did not visit the
Israelitish kingdom in Africa, which had been lately dis-
covered ? I have contributed much,' said he, ' to eflfect this
discovery, and I have already written about it to London.
It is not very far from here. About thirty days' joumev
from the Red Sea, is the largQ city of Harar, about ten
days' journey from which is found this Jewish kingdom.
They have there a perfectly independent government, a
standing army of 200,000 capable warriors, remarkably
handsome and numerous Synagogues, are real Jews, and
have plenty of gold.' He said farther: ^Although I
am no Jew, I believe firmly in the Messiah whom you
expect, and who is to found for you one day a universal
kingdom, which is never more to be destroyed.'
" ' I have also reliable accounts of a Jewish kingdom in
China, nay, even of the existence of the wonderful stream
Sambatyon, which has hitherto been viewed as a fabulous
invention. I have been convinced by creditable men
THE TEN TRIBES. 511
coming from China. I promised them a handsome reward
if they could procure me some earth and sand of this
river, which they readily promised, aa a thing very easy
for them to accomplish. Btit as hostilities have again
broken out between China and England, through which
all access to the former has been rendered impossible, I
have hitherto not been able to obtain what I desired, but
I have no doubt to be able to succeed so soon as peace
is again restored.
" ' The Jewish kingdom in Africa is by no means, as some
may perhaps imagine, in Chabash, the capital of which is
Kimder (Gondar) ; for the inhabitants of that country are
only, properly speaking. Christians who have retained
many customs derived from Judaism. But the country
in question is inhabited by real Jews, and is not under the
dominions of the Abyssinians (Chabshians), but is ten
days' journey distant from Harar, which is also not under
the dominion of the Christians.' All the above was com-
municated to me by the governor of Aden.
"In the same town (Aden), I spoke with a certain Chai
Levy, a man of some learning, but quiet and pious, who
is a goldsmith by trade, and travels almost every year in
the month of Tebeth (January), when the spring com-
mences in Chabash, beyond the Red Sea, in order to attend
the " Tent-Fair," held not far from the same. They have,
namely, a custom the whole of their summer, which lasts
from Tebeth to Nissan (January to May), which season
they call in their language Maaheniy to erect a town of
tents or booths, to which caravans resort coming from
Kunder, Harar, &c., in order to purchase linen and iron,
as their country does not furnish these necessary materials.
With the termination of Mashem, the fair is ended, the
merchants moving away, each man striking his tent or
booth.
" This Chai Levy now told me that) at one of his visits
512 APPENDIX.
to the fair, he had seen in the hands of a Jew from Cush
(Ethiopia) 9 a book written in a very handsome square
letter^ also another (?) in the rabbinical character, the so-
called Rashi-writing. The caravans from Harar, distant
about twenty-five days' journey from the tent-town, who
visit the fair, had told him that an immense number of
Jews live in their vicinity, with whom these merchants of
Harar, in which town itself no Jews live, have commercial
relations. He requested me to give him a letter for the
Jews of that country, which he would forward through
the caravans from Harar ; but I declined doing so, because
he does not travel again before the coming Tebeth, and it
is possible that I may learn something more reliable in the
mean time, before I write.
"Have the goodness to speak with the chief of the Jewish
congregation at Jerusalem, and tell him that it would be
most interesting to send, in respect to this subject, an espe-
cial mission to Chabash, by way of Aden, since this is the
shortest and best route thither. It would be indeed a
great triumph for our faith, DB^H B^llp, to convince the
world of this important fact. I also announced to you that
during my sojourn at Aden, I learned that Rabbi Amram,
the missionary to the Yehud Chebr, had already arrived at
Zanaa, and was resolved to travel to the tribe of Benja-
min, dwelling within the wilderness of Theman ( Yeman) ;
and as he may not be able to inform you himself of his so
doing, I have been requested to do so. He has no inten-
tion to travel to Chabash on any account; wherefore, it is
necessary to send thither, as soon as possible an especial
messenger.
^^ Yours, &c.,
" Moses Jafe."
I have already stated above that I had also received a
THE TEN TRIBES. 513
letter from Rabbi Amram at Zanaa, giving nearly the
same information which my fnend communicated.
REMARKABLE OCGURRENOE.
Three days before receiving the foregoing letter from
Bombay, I had a visit from a young Jewish scholar, Dr.
Asch^, from Prussia, who had resolved and prepared him-
self for some years before, to undertake a distant journey
in order to seek out the traces of the Ten Tribes. He
has studied medicine, is acquainted with military aflFairs,
having been two years in the Turkish service as a military
surgeon, and witnessed several battles in the Caucasus,
arid all this merely as a proper preparation for his difficult
journey of discovery. He accordingly had arrived a few
days previous to my seeing him at Jerusalem, to continue
his journey from there. I was quite surprised and highly
rejoiced at the intention, the enterprise, and I may say self-
sacrifice, of this noble young man. We discussed the sub-
ject in its various ramifications, as to the road which he
ought to pursue, and I spoke to him also of the Rabbi
Amram, the messenger to the Yehud Chebr. My plan
was, that he ought to go by way of Egypt and Yemen ; but
he thought it would be better to go over Djida, Janbula
(also called Janbua), when suddenly and quite imex-
pectedly, but just in the proper time, I got the above
letter from Bombay, which gives the route of march for the
journey. We were agreeably surprised, and viewed this
singular coincidence as a fortunate omen ; and two days
afterwards, Dr. Asche commenced his travels with a
caravan, which was about making a land journey to Cairo.
On the 28th of Kislev, 5608, I obtained from him the fol-
lowing letter :
88
514 APPENDIX.
" CairO; New Moon of Kislev.
" My dear Rabbi Joseph Schwarz :
"I cannot as yet communicate a great deal to you,
since I have been compelled to stay hitherto in this place ;
but this afternoon, at one o'clock, I hope to leave here,
under Divine protection, for Suez, and thence by the steam-
packet for Aden, and expect to reach it on the 26th of
November, 1847. During my stay here, I have been
nearly the whole time with the venerable Chief Rabbi,
your friend, who inquired particularly after your well-
being, and was greatly rejoiced to hear of my intentions,
and showed me many writings and documents which prove,
beyond a doubt, that there are a great many Jews in
Chabash. He told me that at present there sojourns at
Aden a Jew, called Rabbi Phineas, who had arrived there
from the tribe of Dan. I shall not rest till I have care-
fully investigated and probed everything. I shall write
you again before I leave Aden ; and you will favour me
by forwarding all my letters thence, and those I may write
hereafter from Chabash, according to our agreement, to
Vienna. Whenever you visit the ' West Wall' remember
me in your prayers, and pray for me, on that holy spot,
to the Father of Israel for assistance, protection, and suc-
cess in my long and dangerous journey; for He who
proves the heart, knows that I undertake it only for the
sake of his holy Name and the glory of Israel.
" Your obedient servant,
''Dr. AsciiE."
On the 18th of Adar, 5608, I received the foUowin''
letter, from which I extract only the most interesting
portion :
THE TEN TRIBES. 515
" Bombay, the 27th of Shebat, 6608.
" Rabbi Joseph Schwarz :
" In reference to many accounts concemmg a Jewish
kingdom, I have to report that I have spoken here with
a credible Mahomedan from Chabash, who has told me
wonderful and astonishing things concerning the Jewish
kingdom in his country. The residence of their chief, the
King Zachlon, is in the city of Shemean, which is distant
twenty-eight days' journey from the town of Ascil^, on
the Red Sea. He has an army of one hundred thousand
cavalry, and an innumerable host of infantry. This
Jewish regent excels all the kings and governors in
Chabash in power and renown. The Jews speak three
different languages, Hebrew, Arabic, and Chabash. The
whole country is very fertile and densely populated, and
has many towns and villages. I have already told you in
my last letter that our friend. Dr. Asch^, had safely ar-
rived at Aden in the month of Tebeth, and it is probable
that he has long since departed for Chabash.
"Yours, Moses Jafe."
On the 10th of Ve-Adar, I received the following letter:
" Aden, 7th of Shebat, 5608 (12th of January, '48).
" My dear Rabbi :
" I 'am still at Aden, but in the coming week I mean
to depart, God willing, for Mocha, for there are always
vessels which sail for Massua, on the western shore of the
Red Sea ; from that place I shall have yet before me a
journey of twenty days for Gondar, the first place where I
expect to meet with Jews. There are various opinions
current here concerning the inhabitants of Chabash.
Some believe that all the people resident there are Jews
516 APPENDIX.
proper, that is to say, Caraites ; but this is evidenUy ift-
correct, for they are only Christians, and others actual
pagans, with some Jewish customs. They also practtse
circumcision. But this cannot be said of those Jews who
live farthei' westward and southward, for they are averred
to be Israelites in the amplest sense of the word. I feel
very impatient to be able to convince myself accurately,
by actual inspection, of the true state of afloirs. Rablx
Amram has already commenced his journey to the city of
Chaban in Yemen, and I hope that he may be ahle to dis-
cover there some vestiges of the tribes of Israel, dm
Levy, the goldsmith, travels as usual the coming week to
the " tent fair," on the other side of the Red Sea ; but 1
mean to take another route, the one by way of Mocbs,
wherefore we cannot journey together. Should nothing
be heard from me in the course of three years, which may
the God of Israel forefend, there will, nevertheless, in all
probability, be found in the Iloly City some one who will
again undertake a journey to Chabash. Should you in
the meanwhile write to Vienna or London, have the good-
ness to inform my friends and acquaintances of all j
culara. Yours, &c.,
Dr. Asch
On the IGth of Ab, 5G0S, I received the following
" Calcutta, 2)<th Iku-, 6(
" Mt deah Rabbi J. Schwarz :
" I have obtained reliable information concerning
wonderful stream Sambatyon, in China. The well-known
merchant, Signer David Sason, of Bombay, lately sent fai«
son, Abdalla, on business to Canton. He took with him
a servant, a worthy, truthful man, whom I have had occa-
sion to become acquainted and converse with at Bombay
beibre his departure. But he remained only one month
THE TEN TRIBES. 517
in Canton, as he was taken sick, and Signor Abdalla sent
him hither to be cured. This man told me, that his
master, Signor Abdalla, has in Canton a zaraf (a banker
or money-broker), who is a distinguished man, and has
much commercial intercourse with the Chinese, even in
the most remote districts of the country, and he thus be-
comes accurately informed of whatever takes place through-
out the whole land. ' We learned from him,' says my in-
formant, Hhat it is a notorious fact, that, two months'
journey from Canton, there is a stream which throws out
sand, stones, and water during six days of the week, but
is entirely at rest on the Sabbath. Beyond it is a large
and unknown kingdom. The Chinese of the neighbour-
hood always cross it on the Sabbath, when it is quiet and
can be navigated, with their various kinds of merchandise,
which they leave on the shore, as they are afraid to ven-
ture inland, and then return to the other side; but on
their next return, on the following Sabbath, they either
find the money or their goods untouched. This is alleged
to be a fact; as the Chinese, who deal with our zaraf,
themselves take part in this business.' He also told me,
that before he left Canton he learned, that lately there
had been discovered in the northern part of China more
than 200,000 men, who all wear beards and long curls
niNt), who must be Jews, since the Chinese wear neither
beards nor side-locks.
" Yours,
" Moses Jafe."
Since the above, I have received no farther details;
and my curiosity will be on the stretch till I shall have
the good fortune to obtain accurate accounts and confir-
mation concerning these discoveries, which I shall then
communicate immediately to the public.
We have therefore vestiges of the Ten Tribes in four
618 APPENDIX.
different localities: 1, In Africa; vis., CShabash, whidi
means not merely Abyssinia, but the whole of Central
and Southern Africa; 2, in Yemen ; 3, in Thibet^ and 4,
in China; and it is a truly ludicrous assumption to pre-
tend to find them among the Americans or Hindoostanees,
for no better reason than that people suppose they have
discovered some traces of Jewish customs amcmg them,
and to argue thence that the Israelites had been entirely
lost and mixed up with them. Equally cogent would it
be to argue that the ape ought to be classed among the
members of the human &mily, because he imitates and
copies the same in many of their acts.
''The word of our Qod remaineth for ever." (Isaiah
lx.8.)
^ Behold, days are comings saith the Lord, that I shall
fulfil the good word which I have spoken concerning the
house of Israel (the Ten Tribes), and the house of Judah
(Judah and Benjamin); on that da;^^'flfiall Judah be
assisted, and Jerusalem dwell securely, anfl-ttiis is the
name which they shall call it, *The Lord our right.'"
(Jer. xxxiii. 14, 16.)
Amen.
NOTES.
(Page 78.— Art The Plain of Jordan.)
We find in Siphri, as also in Rashi to Deut. i. 7, i;;' bjff niisr'o n? T\2'^p2
'^Arabah means the plain of the forest." Jonathan renders it in the
same manner Ntsnini Mits^OD. As we cannot ascertain what forest is
meant here, and as we always understand by Arabah the plain of Jordan,
I deem myself authorized to read for i;," "forest" pi' "Jordan," or the
plain of Jordan. Jonathan no doubt copied from Siphri, but without
doubt an incorrect reading.
(Page 99.)
In Joshua xi. 16, the land of Goshen is mentioned between the South
3J3n and the Lowland nSaem. We also read (ibid. x. 41), "All the
land of Goshen to Gibeon." Although now we are told of a city Goshen
in the mountains of Judah ^ibid. xv. 51), I have not been able to ascer-
tain where this land was situated. It may, perhaps, have been to the
south of Beth-Djibrin, in the district now called Al Hasy, or Henady.
(Page 202.)
Line 13 (Sycamore ?) is wrong ; and should read, " See article nhy,
p. 308."
(Page 211.)
The distance from Djebl Tor (Mount Sinai) to Wady Gaian, or Wady
Bierin (Kadcsh Bamea), is about 180 to 190 English miles. The usual
distance travelled by a caravan during one day is from sixteen to seven-
teen miles : wherefore the journey from Sinai to Kadesh Bamea can be
made in eleven days, as stated in Deut. i. 2.
THE END.
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