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Full text of "The Adirondacks: illustrated .."

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PROPERTV OK 

THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE 

PROTECTION OF 

THE ADIRONDACKS 

New Yokk City 




(ILLUSTRATED) 




Thirty-eighth Year 







o- 



; 







. . THE . . 

ADIRONDACKS 

ILLUSTRATED. 



CONTAINING • • • 

DESCRIPTION OF NOTABLE FEATURES OF THE REGION ; FORESTRY AND ITS 

FORESTS, THEIR CONDITION AND NEEDS ; HINTS CONCERNING FISH AND 

FISHING, SUPPLIES AND GENERAL OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL ; 

COST AND MANNER OF REACHING THE VARIOUS RESORTS ; 

HOTELS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE OF BOARD, ETC. ; TABLES 

OF ELEVATION AND DISTANCES; MAPS, ETC., ETC. 

■ . BY . . . 

S. R. STODDARD 

AUTHOR OF 

"TICONDEROGA," '• lAKE GEORGE and LAKE CHAMPLAIN." 



It THIRTY-EIGHTH YEAR 

1912 



GLENS FALLS. N. Y. 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 

COPYRIGHT 1893 BY S. R. STODDARD. 

US 



THE NF.W YORK 
PUBLIC LIDRAPxY 

563650 A 

ASTOR, LEHr:r AND 

TIJ-DEN KOUNDATiONS 

R 1931 L 




GREAT DIVISIONS. 



Lake Cha.m.i)ia.in— Pa^^es 2j fo Oo. 

Fort Ticonderoga, 27. Crown Point, 29. Westporu. 33. 
Burlington, 38. Ausable Chasm, 41. Bluff Point, 53. 

3Countain 'Region-^a^'es fss to 7^90. 

Ausable Lakes, 155. Blue Mountain Lake ^^^ Cas- 
cade Lakes, 123. Lake Colden, 127. Elizabeft/tdWn, 135. 
Heart Lake, 125. Lake Henderson, 175. Indian Pass 
-78. Keene Valley, 140. Mount Marcy, 128. North 
'ilba, 119. Newcomb, 174. Placid, Lake, 103. Paradox 
Lake, 160. Schroon Lake, 162. 

Northwest Lake "Region— Pa^es 61 to 1 63. 

Chateaugay Lake, 62. Chazy Lake, 61. Childwold, 99. 
Lower Raquette River, 91. Mountain View, 71. Lake 
^lacid, 103. Paul Smith's, 69. Rainbow Lake, 67. 
jaranac Lake (Lower), 76. Saranac Lake (Upper), 83. 
Tupper Lake, 97. 
StfMhwest Lake Region — Pages 183 to 220. 
^■^aver River, 216. Cranberry Lake, 217. Pulton 
Chain, 184. Long Lake, 175. Raquette Lake, 199. 
r*Blue Mountain Lake, 215. 



00 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

QREETINQ : 

I made my first trip to the heart of the Adirondack 
Wilderness in 1873, covering in a series of loops its 
more noted sections and routes, and gave the results 
of the experience the following year in narrative form 
On this narrative thread has been annually strung 
the changes of succeeding years. 

Changes ? Wild grass grows on the old routes and 
the unknown places of then are now centers of a sum- 
mer population greater than the total of all Adiron- 
dack visitors of twenty years ago. 

So the old " Narrative " is dropped and the space 
given to that which is believed to be of more value to 
the tourist generally, condensed and in a more con- 
venient size for the pocket. The "New Adiron- 
dacks " is the result. How do you like it ? 

Railroads encircle the Adirondacks like the iron 
frame of a landmg net. From the encircling lines 
others penetrate the interior, crossing each other and 
branching in turn to reach important points, or lose 
themselves among the mountains or in the w^atery 
highways that are woven in a net-work all over the 
lake region of the west. Let us consider the Wilder- 
ness as the face of a great clock, with Mount Marcy 
the pivot on which the mighty hands are turning. 



GREETING. 



The more important Gateways are numbered to rep^ 
resent the hours, according to position ; thus Platts- 
burgh fairly represents I o'clock, Port Kent II, West- 
port III, while the others follow in order as the hands 

go the familiar way 
around the dial. 
The several routes 
from important 
points to Gateways 
will be found on 
pages 236- 7-S. The 
route tointeriOi* 
points is followed 
separately from 
each Gateway in 
the following 
pages, for which 
see index. The 
map on page 4 will 
give a clear idea 
of the location of 
the resorts and the ways by which they are gained. 
Hotels are referred to in special index, page 280. 
For rates of board and particulars not found in 
the body of the book, see page 237. For moun- 
tains and table of elevations, page 285. Lakes 
and ponds page 282. Suggestions concerning 
camp and outfit will be found on page 14. For 
fishing and fishing outfit see page 228. Game 
laws 225. 




GRE ETING. 



The preservaiion of the forests— of great value as a 
whole — is of vital importance as regards the tribu- 
taries of the Hudson River. The gradual shrinkage 

in the water sup- 
ply of this river, 
with its sudden 
floods and as sud- 
den drying-up of 
tributary 
streams, are 
warnings that 
should not be ig- 
nored. Royal of 
birth though it 
be ; famed the 
world over and 
beautiful beyond 
compare, it is 
less known in its 
birthplace than 
i n almost any 
other section of 
the wilderness The forest covering of this entire 
region is threatened with destruction ! It should be 
under control of the State. A law should be enacted 
proJiibiting the cutting of evergreen trees on all 
Adirondack lands lying i, 800 feet above //V/<f, (ex- 
cept with the approval of competent authority under 
the government), regardless of ownership. 




[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.] 



GREETING. 

The words are as true to-day as when written in 
1893 — and the danger as great. Governor Flower 
forced action which was of much value to the Adi- 
rondacks as a whole ; Governor Black advanced it 
still farther; the law of 1897 was in the right direc- 
tion ; the State Forestry, Fish and Game Commission 
has done a splendid work ; very great help has come 
through that agency against which public clamor has 
been loudest — the millionaire clubman with his pri- 
vate preserve, — yet the greatest possible good has not 
been attained for the effort has been largely outside 
the section in real peril. The blind spot in the 
Public Eye is over this region from which the Hud- 
son draws its supply. 

And the Lumberman goes merrily forward with the 
work which is clearly within his legal rights ; and the 
Wood-pulp Member softly closes one knowing eye, 
secure in that Legislative Courtesy which forbids 
that others with jobs of their own shall meddle with 
his Territory, while with sound of cymbals and of 
drums the Legislative Committee swings 'round on 
pleasant excursions, over the best roads, and are en- 
tertained at the elegant hotels that stand by the 
waters that discharge into the Dominion of Canada! 

And the threatened tributaries of the Hudson River 
remain a closed book or are seen as through a glass 
darkly. 



IX 



THE QUESTION OF THE DAY. 

The propagation of game and fish in the Adi- 
rondacks is eminently commendable as a senti- 
ment; the great State Park is an undoubted bless- 
ing, and the preservation of the forests for the 
Nation's sanitarium of great worth to humanity, 
but the question of pure water for the millions is 
infinitely more important than all others. 

Soon the people of the great cities must look to 
the mountains for the water they drink. They 
have a right to it, untainted, and to its undimin- 
ished flow — now jeopardized by the cutting away 
of the forests about its head. 

The great western plateau can suffer little per- 
manent injury — burnt levels reclothe themselves 
quickly, but the tree-stripped mountain-side in- 
vites the fire, its mould becomes ashes, the rains 
descend and the rock stands naked, until, by slow 
process, vegetation climbs to its limits once more. 
This is the danger that threatens. The warning 
is seen in the great river that shrinks in drouth 
and throbs with sudden flood. 

The State should control the Hudson River 
watershed absolutely, to the rim. Water storage 
(as in the proposed Sacandaga reservoir) is in 
the right direction. Such would to a consider- 
able degree hold back the destructive spring 
floods, for use in time of drouth. Even the flood- 
ing of State land could do no appreciable 
harm, so long as all dams and constructive 
work are kept outside the Forest Preserve. 
There, however, the line should be drawn and 
fixed, unalterably, forever. 



THE GAME LAWS 



Every year men are shot and killed in the Adi- 
rondacks by mistake for deer. In old days when 
dogs were used in driving such "accidents were 
unknown. Remedy: Legalize "hounding" and 
save the man. The law as it stands was made 
by outsiders and is in the interests of the wealthy 
sportsman, who has acquired skill in "still" hunt- 
ing and who would not grieve if the novice finds 
it difficult to learn. 

The men who spend their lives in the moun- 
tains and make it possible for the visitor to come 
should have rights to its products above the out- 
sider, who simply pays his dollar for license to 
shoot. Yet they are taxed and held under the 
same restrictions while high salaried game keep- 
ers are sent to spy on them that they do not 
offend. The human tendency is to resent this 
and it makes law breakers among those who see 
no reason why their family should go hungry 
while the means of satisfying is held for the mere 
"sport" of others. 

A safe and sane law would permit "hounding" 
to save the man. 

It should prohibit the pursuit of deer in any 
boat or the killing in any water beyond the ani- 
mal's wading depth. 

It should permit the resident to kill during the 
open season to any extent for family use. 



THE GAME LAWS 

Non-residents should be required to take out 
a license as at present, which should limit the 
killing to one deer, "with horns," and prohibit 
the sale or carrying of any dead deer outside the 
county where killed. 

Adirondack Hotels should be permitted to 

erve venison during the open season and for so 

ong a time thereafter as the meat can be preserved 

fresh. The landlord who serves venison at any 

time for a price now violates the law, 

ABOUT TROUT. Not one in fifty who seek 
the Adirondacks for health or pleasure cares to 
go fishing though most everyone likes the taste 
of trout. But the landlord who serves the 
"speckled beauties" for a price breaks the law. 
By connivance with him it may be made to ap- 
pear that it is your "catch." Does that please 
you? 

Don't blame the Landlord "for he's a jolly good 
fellow" and would do everything expected if he 
were free. Don't blame the Native — his wages 
come with the visitor. Don't blame the wise 
sportsman. He is "conserving the species" (for 
his convenience in the name of "Sport") and just 
pulls the strings at Albany as preliminary. 

It is a wrong to native and visitor all the same 
and should be remedied. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



CHAPTER I. 
In General. 

ON wings of thought swifter than the lightning's- 
flash we sweep away across the drowsy earth, 
past smoke-polluted cities, sun-scorched meadows^ 
burning plain and highways wnth their flaunting skirts 
of sand, nor rest until the fragrant odor of wild 
flowers and the dewy breath of forest trees come like 
incense wafted to us from below. 

Come with me up into a high mountain. I cannot 
show you ''all the kingdoms of the world," — but 
"the glory of them." Over a rippling ocean of for- 
ests first in long, swelling waves, now rising, now 
sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun- 
tains, crested as with' caps of foam, there tormented 
by counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like 
ocean billows frozen by Divine command, their sum- 
mits glittering granite, their deep green troughs 
gleaming with threads of silver and bits of fallen sky. 



2 THE ADIRONDACK5. 

Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us, 
now come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam 
climbing the mountain-side, tall and graceful at first 
but as the mountains rise, growing smaller, gnarled 
and twisted, and scarce above the surface, sending 
their branches out close along the ground, their white 
tops bleached and ghastly, like dead roots of upturned 
trees ; now the hardy lichens ; now naked rock, and we 
stand on the wind-swept summit of " Tahawus," the 
cloud-piercer of the Indian. 

Around Tahawus cluster the other great mountains 
— east, west, north, south — limitless, numberless, a 
confused mass of peaks and ridges, crowding close 
up to the base of their chief, and receding in waves of 
green all down through the scale of color to its blue 
and purple edge. Pen can convey no idea of its sub- 
limity ; the pencil fails to even suggest the blended 
strength and delicacy of the scene. The rude laugh 
is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on reverential 
lips, the body shrinks down feeling its own littleness, 
while the soul expands, and rising above the earth, 
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His 
existence. 
"Westward from the mountains, in a broad semi- 
circle, at an average elevation of i,6oo feet 
above tide, is the Great Lake Region, 
where a multitude of lakes and ponds form 
the head-waters of streams that radiate 
to all points, finding their way south to 
the Hudson, or at the west and north into the great 




THE ADIRONDACKS. , 9 

lakee and through the St. Lawrence into the sea. 
These western lakes and streams are so closely con- 
nected that almost every mile of that section may be 
traversed by boat, save for short carries from one 
water system i ito another, or to go around some rapid 
or waterfall. 

The term Adirondack, interpreted to mean " Bark- 
eater," was originally applied in derision by the In- 
dians of the south to tribes occupying the northern 
slope of the interior, and in time was used to desig- 
nate the mountains, until finally by common use it 
was extended to include the entire wilderness. The 
section is an irregular oval, covering about 90 miles 
east and west and a hundred or more north and south, 
with its eastern third cut off by Lake George and 
Lake Champlain. Out of this is to be taken a con- 
siderable section of cleared and cultivated land 
around the border and in old settled valleys, leaving 
an area of wilderness.O[f .between 7,000 to 8,000 square 
miles. In the interior are numerous small clearings 
amounting to considerable in the aggregate but, like 
the spots on the sun, small compared with the exist- 
ing wild section. 

The wilderness may be divided into three general 
divisions which, collectively, entertain the great bulk 
of visitors, namely the Lake Placid and the Saranac 
and SL Regis waters of the northwest. The moun- 
tain region of Essex County which includes Eliza- 
bethtown and Keene Valley ^vith entrance at West- 
port ; and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 5 

Lake waters of Hamilton County in the southwest 
Each section while possessing something of the char- 
acteristics of the others, has its own special attractions, 
and while connected by natural highways over which 
the nomad often goes, still to a considerable extent, 
each preserves its own individuality, and is complete 
and sufficient unto itself. Smaller but notable are 
Childwold, Gale and Tupper Lake sections in St. 
Lawrence county and Fulton Chain and Beaver River 
in Herkimer county. 

Essex county is the most picturesque in high moun- 
tains and wild lakes, and is visited more than any 
other section by those who seek to delight the eye 
with beautiful scenes. The West is wildest in its 
tangle of woven lakes and streams that duplicate each 
Dther over and over again throughout its broad ex- 
panse. The North is the oldest, the best known and 
visited and iz ..'.^^ the most fashionable. The South 
is the tamest and of least interest and enterprise. 

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom 
m ^ugh or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing 

ng^ijial in its bright skies and pure atmosphere. 
L viiventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not 
held binding here. The fact of actual presence is ac- 
cepted as guaranty of the possession of those mutual 
sympathies and qualifications which here, at least, 
make the whole world kin. Ladies travel without 
male escort from one end of the wilderness to the 
other, indeed, it is no uncommon thing for parties to 
make the tour of the woods, accompanied only by the 




6 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

necessary complement of guide to furnish motive 
power, spending day after day in their boat, and each 
night reaching one step farther in the extended sys- 
tem of hotels. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashion- 
able resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the 
conventional stage trapper, who occa- 
sionally bursts upon the astonished wild- 
erness in fringed buckskin, and is marked 
at once as a "fresh." Your right to 
enter the best society will not be ques 
tioned because of dress. Clothing ordi- 
narily worn is sui?icient for all occasions, 
with perhaps the addition of a soft felt 
hat and roomy walking shoes or boots for boat or 
tramp. Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies, 
etc. , are given in a special chapter, with various sug- 
gestions. 

Hunting is standard sport here and the great at- 
traction to a majority ot Adirondack visitors. Game 
of the smaller variety such as partridges, squirrels 
etc., can be found in the woods almost anywhere. 
Deer have increased in numbers within the past few 
years under the provisions of the law prohibiting 
their indiscriminate slaughter which the resident, from 
guide to hotel keeper, has learned was to his interest 
to see enforced. To the credit of the clubs, that get 
little but maledictions from the unattached sportsman 
generally for " fencing in " their land, be it said that 
th«se reservations under regulations -which are held 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



binding on member and invited guest alike, are pro- 
lific nurseries for game that overflows into the sur- 
rounding forests and from which the casual sports- 
man derives unacknowledged benefit. The visitor 
should be lenient. Even the most bloated millionaire- 
-^lub-member in existence has rights on this earth 
A^hich are entitled to thoughtful consideration. 

Trout are to be found in most Adirondack streams, 
generally in proportion to the whipping they get al- 
though the fish seem to thrive in some sections better 

than in others, 
while a careful 
observance of 
the law and 
j udicious re- 
stocking of 
streams has 
made certain 
sections notable 
above others to 
lovers of the 
gentle art 
Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with sug- 
gestions as to outfit, fishing, etc. , is treated at length 
11. a special chapter by the late A. N. Cheney, a 
rerogEJzed authority in the matter whereof he 
speaks. It gives, in readable shape, more solid in- 
formation of use to the fisherman than a whole 
library of ordinary fishing romances of the day. 
with their sensations, impressions, tingles, thrills 
and frills. 




5 THE ADIK.ONDACKS. 

In the net-work of ways and their multitude Oj 
branches traversing the wilderness continuity of pro- 
g-ress may not be. A comprehensive glance will help 
in acquiring necessary details. Information gathered 
from all available sources, has been arranged in the 
following pages on a carefully considered system. 
Here is the key. As a whole the ways into the wilder- 
ness are considered under the head of "Gateways." 
(See index.) Following, each gateway is given sepa- 
rately, with lines leading to particular centres, with 
distances and fares to points named. 

Expenses cannot be fairly estimated, varying widely 
as they do with the habits and requirements of dif- 
ferent individuals. If you go in channels having 
public conveyances, traveling expenses may be fairly 
determined by referring to fares, etc. , found under 
their appropriate heading. If you go outside the 
public lines ^^ .,xavel you must have special convey- 
ance. If you travel by boat, or go into camp, you 
wall require the service of a guide. 

Places of entertainment are scattered throughout 
the wilderness, ranging from the well appointed hotel 
to the log house of the interior and open camps where 
the guide is host and moves his whole establishment 
if necessary to suit his guests. The prices at the 
different houses range from one to four dollars a day 
and upward according to accommodations and service. 
Ordinarily the rates are very reasonable for standard 
accommodations, but you must not expect all tne 
modern conveniences at a dollar a day. They can he 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




^-^^'ick.^"^-V"i''' 



had at many of the hotels, but it costs money to pro- 
vide them and the visitor must pay for it. When a 
hotel advertises board at so much *' and upward" it 
means "and up- 
ward." Particulars 
concerning hotels, 
including price for 
board, accommoda- 
tions, etc., will be 
given in connection 
with the section 
r.'here such n o t e 1 s 
are located, unless for some reason particulars do not 
reach me in tim.e for the a,nnual revision. For names 
of hotels see special index. 

Guides ordinarily receive $3 per day, furnishing 
boat and necessary cooking and table utensils. In 
camp you furnish the supplies, the guide cooks and 
does other necessary camp work. He rows and 
"backs" the boat over the carries where there are 
no other means provided ; (at carries where horses 
are kept the employer is expected to pay for trans- 
portation). One guide and boat is ordinarily suffi- 
cient for two persons in traveling, but for independ- 
ence in fishing and hunting each sportsman should 
have his individual guide. If you employ a guide for 
any service at any hotel you are charged for his 
"keep" at one-half to two-thirds regular rates. 
There are two classes of guides, known respectively 
ar " hotel " and "independent." The former are en- 



10 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

gaged for the season by hotel proprietors, who re- 
let them to parties; the latter must be dealt with 
personally. There are good men in both classes, 
the nature of the surroundings usually determine 
to which class they belong: experience only can 
determine their suitability for your peculiar wants. 
As a class they are a fine set of men. The best 
guides are often engaged for a year in advance, 
as some sportsmen would as soon think of going 
without his gun as without his favorite guide. 

If you go into camp life and can afford the ex- 
pense, take a trained cook along. Guides can as a 
rule, prepare an acceptable forest meal, and some 
are very skillful in that line, but the very quali- 
ties which contribute to make the successful guide 
— "the mighty hunter" — often renders him indif- 
ferent to the quality of his food, and incapable of 
understanding the cravings of a delicate appetite. 
At all events, carry a cook book. Camp fare is apt 
to be monotonous after a time, and although 
familiar with a hundred dishes, when brought face 
to face with the necessity of preparing a straight 
meal, your mind becomes a blank and you drop 
weakly back to the same old stew of yesterday — 
and the day before — and life becomes a burden. 
You are presumably out for pleasure, do not, 
therefore, make severe labor of it. Have 



THE ADIRONDACKS. II 

paid help sufficient to do camp work, if, at any time, 
inclination tempt you to watch the zenith from some 
mossy vantage ground, or to drift 
idly among the still waters, absorb- "^n 

ing with newly awakened instincts ..:.--'"' . ^ 
the subtle lessons / "^-^^ V*'"^^^^^^ 

taught bv nature. , ( /// ^^^S^ \l /\}^f ^^M ^ 

Theglor'iously ^^^^^^¥^^^-^^1 
healthful air of V^fe^^^Sk -'A<, 

the wild e r n e s s 




k0 



will unquestion- 
ably give new life 
and vigor, but it 
labors at a disadvantage, if your bed of boughs afford 
no rest and sleep comes only with complete exhaus- 
tion, as often happens in the first few nights in camp. 
At such times the early morning finds you pitably 
weak and languid instead of refreshed and ready to 
move simply because motion is a relief to the poor 
bruised body and aching joints. "Roughing it" is 
grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but 
is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not en- 
tirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken. 

Parties have "done" the Adirondacks with map, 
book and compass, without the aid of a regular guide ; 
but the way is full of hardships for such that may be 
avoided by those accustomed to the country, while if 
comfort, distance, and time lost in out-of-the-way 
places are taken into consideration such a course is 
attended with but little economy. 



12 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 




Bear in mind that this book is designed to give its 
readers in convenient shape information concerning 
points and places, roads and regions that can be 
visited over public ways ; matters of general interest 
to the ninety-and-nine, with hints and suggestions of 
the deeper mysteries of camp and trail to the hun- 
dredth one, that may pilot him to points where the 
intelligent guide becomes a necessity, and beyond 

which, direc- 
^'-.^^ tion in book 
5S^rf form would 
confuse, rathei 
than instruct. 
For the sake 
of clearness, 
therefore, I have omitted description of the multitude 
of smaller ponds, streams and trails which duplicate 
each other in many places, which no one should at- 
tempt to follow without an experienced guide. To 
those who would have a comprehensive idea of the 
whole region, it is hoped the map, designed to supple- 
ment the information contained herein, will be a 
welcome companion until it can be safely laid aside 
for the more specific knowledge of the guide, whose 
office neither book nor map can ever f^.U. 

A large portion of the great Adirondack region 

had never been surveyed with chain and rod when 

the original "Tourist-map" was undertaken. In its 

construction all available sources of information 

were brought into requisition. Important points 



THE ADIRONDACKS 13 

outside the wilderness proper were determined 
in accordance with official surveys, and connected 
with the mountains of the interior, whose prin- 
cipal peaks were accurately located by triangula- 
tion made expressly for the work. In addition to 
this absolutely reliable material, drawings on an 
extended scale of small sections, covering in the 
aggreate the entire region, were made and sent 
in duplicate to men familiar with the various 
localities for corection, and were drawn as full 
and complete as possible — careful attention being 
given to prooprtion and distance — with wild trails, 
carries, ponds and streams. Reduced to an uni- 
form scale by photography, the result approached 
perfection as nearly as could be, short of actual 
trigonometrical survey. The map was completed 
in 1879 and issued revised annually and corrected 
to keep pace with changes of road and trail, 
camp and hotel in this rapidly changing section. 

A new map now takes the place of the old con- 
taining all important features of the United 
States Geodetic Survey to date, with the special 
features of camp and trail which made the origi- 
nal so valuable. The price on Map bond paper 
in cloth covers with complete index of mountains, 
lakes and places, post paid, is one dollar. The 
same map on cheaper paper without the index 
and in paper covers, 50 cents. 



CHAPTER II. 
Outfit, Camp, Supplies, Suggestions, Etc. 

MAKE out a complete list of articles that are con- 
sidered necessary or desirable in the proposed 
trip, each member for himself, in advance of the time 
of departure, then in committee of the whole decide 
on what is really necessary or suitable, taking into 
consideration the nature of the trip and means of 
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be 
not over-difficult of access, carry anything which 
will contribute to your reasonable comfort, in the 
way of blankets, clothing, etc. 

For camp outfit and woods life the following is 
recommended. A complete change of underclothing ; 
two pairs of serviceable socks, but slightly heavier 
than you habitually wear at the season (soft wool is 
preferable) ; pair colored flannel shirts with wide col- 
lars, confined at the throat by a substantial silk hand- 
kerchief. (If the unaccustomed material chafes the 
neck the shirts may be put on outside the garment 
ordinarilv worn in which case linen collars must not 
be forgotten.) The trowsers and vest should be of 
some strong woolen goods, the coat the same, cut 
rather short and to button close up to the neck. Have 
pockets, ample and numerous, with covers ; you will 
find use for them. Wear a soft felt hat with a 
reasonably wide brim. (By grasping it in a manner 
easily learned the rim forms a convenient drinking 
cup.) Do not commit the too common error of pro- 
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair 
of laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken 
to the foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is 
best. The uppers should be of rather light grained 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



IK 




kip or water-proof leather. Have leather or canvas 
leggings, strapped under the instep and buttoning, or 
to lace at the side well up toward the knee. Boots 
may be used in place of shoes and leggings, if pre- 
ferred, but the evidence is largely in favor of the shoe. 
It is well to have a duplicate pair for alternates in 

wet weather. 
Rubber boots, 
although con- 
venient at 
times, are not 
suitable for 
general wear 
or for travel- 
ing. A light 
overcoat will 
be found very 
comfortable at 
times. Among 
the necessaries 
should be included rubber coat and overalls for use in 
rainy weather, for the best fishing is often found under 
dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber blanket 
to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or 
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or 
above. For lounging in camp take a pair of common 
canvas slippers and sew on them cloth tops to come 
up around the ankle, and tie outside the trowsers. 
For sleeping at night — if you have moral courage 
sufficient to stand before your fellows in such a gear — 
a single garment of any suitable material — (calico if 
you like) — combining shirt, drawers and stockings 
without opening save the necessary one of entrance 
at the top, to button close about the neck, will be 
found wonderfully comforting while wandering ants 
and inquisitive though harmless bugs may be mak- 
ing life miserable for those with only the ordinary 



A POSSIBILITY. 



16 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



garments. A further addition may be made in shape 
of a friar's hood attached at back of neck. A light 
cloth or silk cap will be found comfortable for night 
use if you don't take kindly to the above. 

Ladies' outfit contemplates a subject in which I 
would not presume to dictate ; I have learned better. 
I humbly submit, however, that it is your first duty 
to make yourself as attractive as possible, subject only 
to the requirements of place and season. I would 
suggest that, whatever may be allowable in the way 
of " fine " dressing, itis not con- 
sidered necessary, or even in 
good taste. Often the sweetest 
girls that ever brightened the 
wilderness with their presence 
reign queens of the evening in 
the same bewitching costume in 
which they boated and climbed 
the mountains in the early morn- 
ing. Consult some lady friend 
who has spent a season in the 
woods as to what constitutes a 
suitable outfit. In absence of other infor- 
mation the following is suggested for boat, 
camp and tramp. Underclothing, such as 
experience has shown best suited to the sea- 
son and your individual comfort, giving 
fine flannel the preference in all but the very warmest 
weather. Underskirts should generally be of dark 
flannel, although, if much walking is to be done, one 
of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute 
as less clinging than woolen. A becoming dress may 
be made of blue or gray flannel or ladies' cloth. It 
mav be pleated back and front, gathered at the 
waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any 
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms. 
The skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger 




Illli ADIRONDACKS. * 17 

shorter than the ordnar^' walking dress Trim but 
little, in shades of same color as body ; a cord at 
wrist, collar and waist-band, with a knot of ribbon 
or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. A dainty 
bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms 
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt 
hat with wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. Wear 
a lady's hat, if they differ from a man's. Doii t 
ape masculinity in dress. The average Adirondack 
sportsman does not admire it, although, if confronted 
by the horrid fact he is often too much of a gentle- 
man to tell the truth. Wear dark serviceable hose 
and substantial roomy Balmoral boots, with broad 
soles and low, broad heels. Wear Lisle thread, cotton 
or doeskin gloves. They may be made with long 
wristlets to button or tie outside the dress sleeve, 
to guard agamst possible attack of black fly or mos- 
quito. A chatelaine belt and pocket, with tin drink- 
ing cup, etc. , is convenient. A light sun umbrella of 
the walking-stick pattern is a comfort in rain or shine. 
A shawl will often be found acceptable of an evening 
following the warmest of days. Carry a rubber oi 
waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubber 
overshoes and a piece of light rubber cloth to throw 
over the lap and feet if surprised in a boat by one of 
those fast-moving Adirondack showers. 

In rough weather sit or lie low in the boat ; 7tever, 
at such times, grasp the sides to support yourself. A 
skillful boatman will manage in safety one of those 
light Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, if 
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly 
into the woods. It is stated on the highest authority 
that not a noxious plant or venomous serpent exists 
in the Adirondacks. 

In selecting a camping place during warm weather, 
choose an island or an exposed point free from under- 
brush where the wind will, to a great extent, free voti 



X8 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



from the mosquito and fly. In cool weather, it is 
needless to say, choose the thicket ; in either case, 
remember that a cold spring or brook and material 
for the camp-fire conveniently near adds very much 
to your comfort. A baric or bough camp will do in 
absence of anything better, but is nothing like as 
comfortable or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent, 
seven by eight feet on the ground, affords comfort- 
able sleeping room for four, and on occasion five or even 
six. A rope, passing through lengthwise at the top 
and out at the ends, takes the place of ridge pole, 
and may be fastened to convenient trees or over 
crotched sticks cut the proper height, and tied to 

stakes. The ma- 
terial should be 
of cotton (water 
and mildew- 
proof), and com- 
plete, need not 
weigh more than 
nine to twelve 
poun ds. In 
pitching the 
tent, if on a side 
hill, dig a " A " 
shaped trench to 
lead running wa- 
teron either 
side ; if on the level, ditch all around. A wall tent 
is better than a circular or an "A" tent. If along 
stay is anticipated, it pays to build log sides on which 
to mount the tent, and cover with a " fly" to insure 
certain protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp- 
stove can be procured of the dealers, or may be easily 
made to answer every purpose, and pays if your stay 
in one place be long enough to warrant the trouble of 
transportation. In making your bed of boughs, re- 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 19 

member that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as 
comfortable as a bed of down. Apply the fact by 
burrowing or hollowing out cavities to fit the pro- 
jecting points of hip and shoulder. Cover the 
boughs with a rubber blanket, in addition to which 
each member of the party should have a pair of 
heavy blankets. A small bag, filled with leaves or 
moss is an improvement on a pair of boots used 
as a pillow, but not aii tnat nature craves ; ana ac 
the risk of exciting ridicule — from idiots — I am free 
to recommend a small, well-filled feather pillow. It 
pays for itself in a single night's use. A few yards 
of mosquito netting drawn across the front of the 
tent after a good smudge is a luxury which declares 
a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced marches, a 
hammock made of cotton duck with a cover of the 
same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each 
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addi- 
tion of rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A 
little ingenuity will suggest manner of arranging 
hocps over the face to cover with canvass or mosquito 
netting, as circumstances may require. 

Don't expect your guide to double 
carries habitually, rather reduce your 
baggage or get extra packmen for its 
transportation — or carry a part of the 
" duffle" yourself. 

A champaigne basket, covered with 
waterproof cloth and provided with 
shoulder loops for carrying, makes an 
admirable pack basket. A rubber, or 
waterproof bag, or an ordinary two- 
bushel grain bag, with carrying loops 
of webbing, may be used for extra cloth- 
ing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest well down on 
the back to carry. 
The camp kit may consist of a long-handled frying 




20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

pan, a deep stew pan with a cover, a nest of three or 
four covered tin pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc., pint 
tin cups, tin plates, a wire toaster of the gridiron pat- 
tern, a ladle or large iron spoon, table and teaspoons, 
knives and forks, and last but not least, soap, dish 
cloths and towels. 

Carry a pocket compass with you at all times — the 
best woodsmen are often temporarily at fault. An 
ordinary lantern for camp use, candles, matches (a few 
wind-proof and water-proof), towels, tooth brush, 
comb, pocket mirror, pans, needles and thread, a few 
extra buttons to match those worn, oil or tallow foi 
your boots, stamped envelopes, light hunting knife in 
sheath, light axe in sheath. Carry a supply of light 
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lake- 
side pattern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners, 
nor any article too heavy or unwieldy for one man to 
handle. 

Camp supplies may be had from hotels generally, 
but many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need 
no advice, but to the novice the following suggestions 
are made. First, consult your cook book. See v\"hat 
is needed in the preparation of proposed dishes and 
provide accordingly. The following list contains the 
staple articles : Wheat, Graham flour, corn, and 
oat meal, beans, Boston and soda crackers, lemon 
biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, maple sugar, 
loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled horse- 
radish, mustard, vinegar, pepper and salt in boxes 
with perforated covers, dried fruit, canned fruit, but- 
ter (packed in salt and enclosed in hermetically sealed 
cans, which can be anchored in spring holes or under 
cold running water.) Bacon is extremely nice when 
sweet, as is also 'pork, unpoetical but palatable, and 
on occasion taking place of butter and all the 
seasonings. Dried beef is an important item ; 
" jerked venison," one of the best things imaginable 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 21 

to carry when setting out for a tramp ; (ask your guide 
to show you how it is prepared.) For relishes — 
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive 
us — take a box of red herring. Bermuda onions fill 
an aching void which nothing else can fill. Canned 
beef, pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup, 
etc. , may be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes 
can be had from the hotels. Carry no liquor ; if wet 
and cold, Jamaica ginger has all the heating proper- 
ties of whisky ; while strong black coffee is a better 
stimulant, with none cf the evil ef- 
fects following. 

The Medicine Chesi need not be 
extensive. It should, however, con- 
tain cathartic pills and a cholera 
medicine cf some kind ; a small 
bottle cf collodion (composed of 
eqral parts of alcohol and either, 
with gun-cot con added) about the 
consistency of heavy varnish ; (applied to burns and 
small wounds, this collodion forms an artilicial skin, 
impervious alike to air and water) ; ammonia (to allay 
irritation arising from bites of insects) cold cream or 
glycerine (for chapped face or hands) , court-plaster, 
seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, lint 
and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop 
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts 
of flour and common salt ; for burns, apply wheat 
flour or collodion. 

Insect preparation may be procured of the drug- 
gist, or comipounded by yourself. The most conven- 
ient, and effective perhaps as any, is six parts cf mut- 
ton tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little 
camphor added. Tar ointment in the proportion of 
two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil cf tar is good. 
("A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well 
rubbed on, is the best yet known," sa^^s George K. 




22 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Holmes, of Great Carrington, Mass.) Anoint ex. 
posed portions of tlie person with any of the above, 
then stand back and mar^ the frenzy of the baffled 
punkey. 

Do not rely on what boolcs tell you about sporting- 
outfit. If you know nothing about the subject place 
yourself under the direction of some one who does, and 
trust him until 3^ou can judge for yourself. The most 
enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a greenhorn 
will not yield much sport — except to outsiders — and 
the grandest achievement in modern firearms re- 
quires some ^ 

skill in using. ^^ 

If you have the 
requisite skill, 
carry a rifle ; if 
not, a fowling- 
piece is better. 
For light game, 
birds, etc., 
there is per- 
haps no m o r e 
convenient o " 
serviceable arm 
to carry into 

camp than the "pocket" rifle, manufactured by the 
J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopce 
Falls, Mass, A 12 to 15-inch barrel, '^c-calibre, is 
recommended. The weight is less than three pounds. 
A shot-gun barrel is also made to fit the same frame 
so that either may be used at will. 

Are you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak 
pattern or wdth small plate. A plate large enough to 
make a lantern slide ^delds a larger percentage of com- 
fort compared with trouble than any other size made. 




CHAPTER III. 

Lake Champlain and the Eastern Border 
Resorts 

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, a Frenchman, was the 
first white man known to have seen the Adiron- 
dacks when, in i6og, he accompanied a band of Indians 
from the St. Lawrence on an expedition against their 
southern enemies, and. as graphically told by the ad- 
venturer himself ' ' encountered a war party of the 
Iroquois on the 29th of the month, about ten o'clock 
at night, at the point of a cape which puts out into the 
lake on the west side." A battle ensued in which 
Champlain astonished the enemy and proved the su- 
periority of fire-arms over savage spear and arrov". 
This happened the sam.e year that Hendrick Hudson 
sailed up the river that now bears his name, and 
eleven years before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth 
Rock. Champlain wrote an account of the affair, call- 
ing the sheet of water explored by his own name — 
Lake Champlain. It may be worthy of note that 
exactly two centuries after Champlain' s passage in a 
canoe, and one year after Fulton's steamboat went up 
the Hudson , the first steamboat was launched on Lake 
Champlain. 

Liake Cliaraplain is very like a long, slim radish 
in shape, with long roots and outbranching river 
fibers. Whitehall is at the little (south) end of the 
radish ; at Burlington it is quite a respectable vege- 
table ; then come blotches of .rock and islands, and 
beyond that, the leaves, spreading out on either side 
and toward the North overlapping the Canada line. 

On the f^ast is Vermont, sweeping away in a broad. 
23 




pjORTMENRYy/f 
kFRcDERtC^CROWN PT RUINS 



24 'JUK ADIRiiNDACKS. 

cultivated plain that gradually ascends to the ridges 
of the Green Mountains. Along the southern and 
central portion of the lalce the rocky, western shores 
come abruptly to the water's edge. Backward, rising- 
ridge on ridge, the highest, misty with distance, are 
the Adirondack mountains. Here and there are little 

_— ^— ^^« bits of cultivated 

land and breaks in 
the mountains that 
are the gateways to 
the wilderness. Far- 
ther north the moun- 
tains fall away from 
the lake and a level, 
well-cultivated coun- 
try presents itself. 

The distance from 
Whitehall to Fort 
Montgomery, accord- 
ing to the United 
States coast survey, 
is 107^4^ miles. Its 
greatest width, 
which is near the 
outlet of Ausable 
river, is 12I3 miles. 
]SI e a s u r i n g north 
into ]\Iissisquoi bay 
on the cast side, 
(which extends down 
into Canada, and is 
separated from the 
- or 



it 



ICROWN POIK 
T1C0NDERQ6, 



LARRABEES POtNl 



MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN 

Showing Steamboat Route. 

outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme length _ 
the lake is about iiS miles. Its elevation above tide 
is 99 feet. Its greatest depth (at a point i^g miles 
southeast of Essex landing) 399 feet. 

The principal islands are near the north end. The 
two largest are known respectively as North and South 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



25 



Hero, and collectively as Grand Isle, the two 
forming a county in Vermont. 

Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, is 
219 miles north of New York, and 78 from Albany. 




The "D. & H." Railroad extending along the 
west shore of Lake Champlain, is a link in the air 
line between New York and Montreal, and the 
main artery of travel between the two great 
cities. At various points, rail or stage routes 
diverge, leading into the wilderness. 

Steamboats, in which the traveling public may 
have an interest, belong to the,-^Ciiamplain Trans- 
portation Company, of which D. A. Looniis is Gen- 
eral Manager, with office at Burlington, Vt. 
Steamer "Vermont" runs on Lake Champlain to 
connect with steamer on Lake George, exchanging 
passengers by shuttle train between the two 
lakes. 




4 ^. 



% 






a 







J'," ' 'm-i 



^5^a 



>v-i 



THE ADIRONDACKS 27 

Steamer Vermont is a graceful vessel, designed 
specially for pleasure travel, a splendid piece of 
shipcraft, new for the season of 1903, taking the 
place of the old boat of the same name which 
is now withdrawn. It leaves Plattsburg at 7 a. m., 
touches at intermediate landings and reaches 
Fort Ticonderoga about noon. Returning, arrives 
at Plattsburg at 7 p. m. During the summer sea- 
son a connecting train is run from Plattsburg to 
Montreal. 

Steamer Ticonderoga leaves Westport at 6:45 
a. m. daily, Sunday excepted ,and touching at 
points (see map) reaches St. Albans Bay 1 p. m.; 
returning, touches as above, and arrives at West- 
port 7 p. m. 

Steamer Chateaugay operates regular schedule 
during July and August on Mondays and Satur- 
days between St. Albans Bay and Burlington. Bal- 
ance of time is used for excursion business be- 
tween the different points of interest. 

Fort Ticonderoga is 24 miles north of Whitehall 
on a bold promontory between the outlet of Lake 
George and the waters of Lake Champlain. Here 
were enacted the principal events in the play of 
the Lake, where three great nations struggled for 
the prize of a continent. Here precious blood 
flowed like water, for it was the key to the "gate 
of the country," and by its position elected to be- 
come historic ground. The name is the composite 
of attempts to convey the Indian sound, in Eng- 
lish, of Tienderoga, Cheonderoga, or as we have 
it now — "Ticonderoga" — meaning the coming to- 
gether or meeting of waters. 

The old battery on the bluff was a part of the 
original Carillon built by the French in 1755. 



28 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Back on the higher grounds are the barrack walls, 
trenches, bastions, and a bomb-proof room, which 
some authorities say was the magazine, while 
others contend that it was the humble but equally 
necessary bakery. On the east, by the side of the 
road, is the old fort well. Leading from the south- 
east corner of the parade toward this old well, 
is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen went 
in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is 
Mount Defiance. Between it and the fort the outlet 
of Lake George enters Lake Champlain. At the 
southeast, the lake is 
narrowed down h\ ^.x'^^'fC OND^^ 
the near approach y^^S^ 
of Mount Jnde ' >^^^ 
pendence, //iS 
which was 
also forti- 
fied while 
St. Claire 
held com- 
m a nd ; 
between 
the two 
points 
ran the 
chain, or 
float i n g, 
bridge 
The lake 
here turns 
toward the 
north, thus wash 
ing three sides of 
the promontory. 




THE ADIRONDACKS 



29 



The Old Fort and Garrison grounds consisting 
of about 700 acres were ceded by thie state toward 
the close of the century to Columbia and Union 
Colleges, and in 1818 purchased by William Pell, 
the great-grandfather of the present owner, Ste- 
phen H. P. Pell. Efforts have been repeatedly 
made to interest both the state and national gov- 
ernments in the care of the old fort, the owners 
expressing a willingness to sell at a nominal 
price if the preservation could be guaranteed, 
but in vain. They have now undertaken the res- 
toration of the old building as nearly on original 
lines as can be determined. 

Larrabee's Point is on the Vermont shore, a 
mile north of the ruins. For hotel see page 198. 

Grrwn Point Landing is 11 miles north of Fort 
Ticonderoga. 

Crown Point Ruins are six miles north of Crown 
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by 




APPPOACHSNG CROWN POINT RUINS FROM THH SOUTH. 

I Crown Point Light Mouse ; 2 Port Henry ; 3 Chimney Foint. 

che land extending from the west on which the nana 
stand, its easternmo! point marked by stone light- 
h-^use. Chimney Poi^it approaches from the east side. 
Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest place in the 
jiassage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort ^X. 
Frederick, b'lilt by the French in 1731. Crown Point 



m€^;''-'<iU^ 



.* 






, ^J 



% 



i 



1, 



/x./'l; .;i/;/, 







THE ADIRONDACKS 



31 



Fort standing over toward the west was commenced 
by Amherst in 1759, and completed at an expense of 
over ten million dollars. The extensive earth-works, 
and the a\ ails of the barracks, still in a good state 0/ 
pieservation, 

indicate the ,.■■■ ,,,, ,, , . m ., iiim i m i n < w ui'^id ^ 

strength and ITrfl^^TIEIK3?F 
extent of the 
fortification — 
from which, 
however, n o 
gun was ever 
fired at an 
a p proaching 
foe. Dr. Bix- 
by designates 
the shores of 
the peninsula 
west of the 
ruins as the 
probable site 
of C h a m - 
plain's battle 
with the Iro- 
cuoioin i6oa- _ 

In absence of positive proof there is much his- 
torical evidence to indicate that the battle did 
really occur here. No historic point on the lake 
is thrust forward "from the west shore" into more 
unavoidable prominence. 

The land on which the ruins stand, 25 acres in 
extent, was presented to the State in 1910 by 
Witherbee^ Sherman & Co., of Port Henry, to be 
held forever as public property. 

The Champlain Memorial is being erected here 
at the extremity of the point. It takes the form 
of a monumental light house, built jointly by the 
States of Vermont and New York. A heroic statue 
of Champlain in bronze faces the east and in the 




J 


Im 


m-^m?:- 


m/'. :^:V#^S5"rf'' ' '€W^^ 


t^Bm^^^ 


^W '"'^ ""^ 






1 



THE RED ROCKS OF WILLSBOROUGH. 



THE ADIRONDACKS 33 

base is Rodin's symbolic "La France," which was 
presented by France to the United States and 
installed with becoming ceremonies by a dis- 
tinguished company of citizens of our sister Re- 
public, who came over the ocean for that purpose. 
The Monument is a fitting memorial to the dis- 
cover, who gave his name to the noble lake. 

Port Henry, two miles northwest of Crown 
Point Ruins, is exceedingly picturesque, with a 
number of elegant private residences, occupied 
by the iron magnates of that section. 

The Lee House is an excellent hotel. J. E. Mc- 
Nulty, proprietor. Rates $2-$3 per day. Open all 
the year. Free bus to trains. 

The G. R. Sherman, steam ferry boat, runs six 
round trips daily (4 trips Sundays) through the 
summer months between Port Henry and Chim- 
ney Point on the Vermont shore, landing at Fort 
Frederick on signal. Boat leaves Port Henry at 
7.30 a. m. and Chimney Point at 8, and at two- 
hour intervals thereafter. Fare for automobiles 
or double teams, with driver, between points, 65 
cents; single horse 40 cents; for the single pas- 
senger, 15 cents. 

******* 

The Lake Champlain and Moriah R. R. is seven 
miles long, extending from Port Henry to the ore 
beds at Mineville 1,300 feet above. The grade at 
one point is 256 1-2 feet to the mile. The aver- 
age is 211 feet. It contains three "Y's," where 
the nature of the ascent renders a curve imprac- 
ticable. 

'Moriah is two miles west of Port Henry (Hotel 
Sherman). Schroon River is 17 miles (Carson's); 
thence west to N ewcomb (36 miles) and to Long 
Lake, a total of 50 miles. Stage daily, Sundays 
excepted. 



54 



THE ADIRONDACKS 



Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay, 
setting into the western shore of Northwest 
bay, 25 miles north of Fort Ticonderoga and 40 
miles south of Plattsbuurg. It is a favorite gate- 
way into Elizabethtown and Keenc Valley and 
possesses in its broader environment attractions 
that recommend it to the summer visitor above 
most interior resorts. 

The Westport Inn strands on the brow of an ab- 
rupt eminence a hundred feet above the lake and 
overlooks a tennis lawn shaded by fine elms, the 
picturesque steamboat landing, the great sweep- 
ing ampitheatre of hillside leading away to right 
and left, the circling shore of the bay and the 
beautiful chain of Green Mountains across in 
Vermont. Tlie house has broad piazzas and is 
neat and well furnished from basement to belve- 
dere. It has cozy parlors and dining-room, with 
large open fire-places. The table is superior and 
the service most efficient. There are bath rooms 
and perfect drainage. Water comes from a won- 
derful mountain spring 500 feet above the lake. A 

number o f 




detached cot- 
tages add to 
the attrac- 
tions, fur- 
nishing alto- 
gether ac- 
commoda- 
tions for 150 
guests. Golf 
links on rolling ground afford an excellent course 
with interesting hazards. Good boating and fish- 
ing facilities and bathing places with fine bot 



THE ADIRONDACKS 35 

torn, and convenient bath houses, are here. 
The golf club house has billiard and pool 
tables and a shower bath. There are two 
small steamers and a launch for rent. The Cham- 
plain steamers touch four times each day at the 
wharf at the foot of the grove. Excursions by 
these steamers, running at convenient hours, are 
popular. Long distance telephone and W. U. tele- 
graph in the house. H. P. Smith, who has been 
connected with the Inn since its opening, is man- 
ager. Mr. Smith is also manager of "The Foot- 
hills," Nordhoff, Southern California. 

Glenwocd Inn. at the north edge of the village, 
spreads an exceptionally good and wholesome 
table. Rates $2 per day. Special on application. 
John L. Sherman, proprietor. It has most of the 
commercial travel and is open all the year. Free 
carriage to station. 

The Westport, a small house at the station, 
should not be confounded with "The Westport 
Inn," mentioned above. 

The Elizabethtown Terminal Railroad, extend- 
ing from Westport station to Elizabethtown, 7 
miles distant, is now under construction to be 
ready for traffic late in the season. Transfer is 
now by auto-stage and private conveyance. 

A small propeller runs from Westport to Ver- 
gennes daily, on arrival of steamer Vermont from 
the south, returning in the morning to connect 
with the south-bound boat. 

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west 
shore, terminating in a sharp point 8 miles north 
of Westport. Barn Rock (a corruption probably of 
Barren Rock) shows the upturned edges of strata 
lying at a sharp angle with the surface in a bold 



36 THE ADIRONDACKS 

little way north, are grand perpendicular cliffs. 
Rock Harbor, a mile further north, shows an 
"effort," where Gotham's one time Boss, Tweed, 
tried his hand at digging ore. Grog Harbor — a 
charming litle cove despite its name — is near the 
northern end of Split Rock Mountain. 

Split Rock is at the northern end of the 



-^ 



f PUT ROCK FROM THE NORTH. 

I Grand View Mt., Vt. ; 2 Split Rock Li^t; \ Split Rock. 

mountain bearing the same name. In the uncer- 
tain records of old Indian treaties, it is claimed 
that this rock marked the boundry line between 
the tribes of the St. Lawrence and those of the 
Mohawk Valley. 

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east some- 
thing over five miles north of Westport. This is 
the longest river in Vermont and is navigable to 
Vergennes whose spires may be seen some dis- 
tance inland. Fort Cassin stood at the mouth of 
Otter Creek. Bits of the ruins are still visible. 
Within the creek a portion of the American 
squadron was fitted out in 1814, which, under 
Commodore McDonough defeated the British Com- 
modore Downie, at Plattsburgh, in September of 
that year. 

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake ap 
Otter Creek runs, although in an air line but lit 



THE ADIRONDACKS 37 

tie more than half that distance. It is one of the 
oldest cities in New England, chartered in 1788. 
It is also the smallest incorporated city in the 
country. The city limits include an area of 1 l-4x 
1 1-2 miles. 

Essex, a small vilage on the west shore, is 10 
miles north of Westport. The Boquet river emp- 
ties into the lake four miles north of Essex land- 
ing. It is navigable for about a mile. It was a 
rendezvous of Burgoyne's flotilla, in the advance on 
Ticonderoga, in 1777, and in 1812 was entered by 
British gunboats to work the destruction of the 
little village of Willsborough, a mile inland. 

Willsborough Point, a low peninsula about four 
miles long by one wide, separates Willsborough 
Bay from the main lake. 

The Four Brothers are near the middle of the 
lake east of Willsborough Point. Here occurred 
the running engagement between Benedict Ar- 
nold and Captain Pringle, in 1776, in which the 
English were victorious. Junip<?r Island is north- 
east of the Brothers surmounted by a lighthouse. 

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes 
the Vermont side in the approach to Burlington. 
Back inland are the two highest peaks of the 
Green Mountains— Mansfield, 4,360 feet above the 
tide, and Camel's Hump, the Leon Couchant of 
the French. 

Shelburne Harbor is east of Bottler's Point. 
Here are the shipyards of the Champlaiu 
Transportation Company. It 1*=? worthy of note 
that but one year after Robert Fulton's steamboat 
was launchel on the Hudson River a steamboat 
was launched at Burlington. It could run five 
miles an hour without heating the shaft! 



38 THE ADIRONDACKS 

Rock Dunder is a prominent ooject, as we near 
Burlington. It is a sharp cone, 20 feet high, 
above water, believed by Winslow C. Watson, the 
historian, to be the famous "Rock Regio" so fre- 
quently mentioned in colonial records. 

Burlington is a city of nearly 25,000 inhabitants, 
SO miles north of Whitehap. Burlington has 
quite an extensive lumber market and also a var- 
ied line of manufacturing interests, including cot- 
ton and woolen textiles, refrigerators, chairs, 
screens, blinds, doors, sash and machinery. Two 
railroads center here, the Portland and the Cen- 
tral Vermont. Direct train service is had with 
noted eastern mountain and coast resorts. The 
distance from Burlington to Montreal to 95 miles; 
to Fabyans, 120; to Portland, 211; to Lake Win- 
nipesaukee, 140, to Concord, 174; to Boston, 230. 

The Champlain Transportation Company oper- 
ating the lake steamers has its general office here. 

The steamer "Ticonderoga" was built in 
1906, is in service from April to December each 
year, and during the season of summer tourist 
travel, June to September, operates a round trip 
betwen Westport and St. Albans Bay each day, 
touching at Burlington, Port Kent, Plattsburg and 
the Islands. 

The "Ticonderoga" is 220 feet long, 57 feet 9 
inch beam over all, hull of steel, with three water 
tight bulkheads, steered and heated by steam, and 
lighted by electricity; is a modern, up-to-date ves- 
sel in every respect, and is in construction very 
similar to the "Sagamore" on Lake George. 

The steamer "Chateaugay" is in service June 
15 to September 15 each year, and is employed in 



THE ADIRONDACKS 39 

handling excursion traffic during the summer 
months, and on Mondays and Saturdays performs 
regular service between Burlington and St. Al- 
bans Bay. 

The Lake Champlain Club has a conven- 
ient club house a little way north of the steam- 
boat landing, 

Clochester Point reaches half way out across 
the broad lake north of Burlington, and still fur- 
ther west are Clochester reefs and light-house — a 
blood-red light marking the outermost rock at 
night. 

Port Kent is on the west shore of the lake 10 
miles from Burlington. 

Trembleu Hall on the high land a half mile 
north of the station, is most attractive. Capacity 
125. Farrell & Agate, proprietors. Rates $3.00 
to $4 per day, $15.75 to $21 per week. Free car- 
riages to trains and boats. 

Farrell of Trembleau receives you at the sta- 
tion with glowing face and official cap, a genial, 
big bodied reception committee, jovially pleased 
to meet you. Mrs. Adgate's welcome at the Hall 
though quiet, is equally cordial. At once you feel 
at home with the freedom of the .unwatched. 
There is no suggestion here of hand out-stretched 
with upturned palm. There is no thought of lock- 
ed doors or barred preserves. The place is yours 
to occupy in comfort. The houuse stands on high 
land overlooking the lake, surrounded by locust 
and maple trees with stately Lombardy populars, 
lawn is like velvet, the walks gleaming white as 



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THE ADIRONDACKS 41 

they run to various points. The table is whole- 
some abundant, cleanly and with pleasing ser- 
vice. A. broad piazza and rustic summer house 
are available for lounging. Open tire places are in 
the public rooms, electric lights throughout in 
public and private places. It has modern plumb- 
ing and sanitary appliances. A feature of peren- 
nial interest to young and old who enjoy the piano, 
the dancing, the amateur theatricals and the 
games which are liable to last far into the night, 
is the casino removed some distance from the 
main building. For meditation is the open grove 
of thrifty pines on high ground backward from the 
house, where the ground is carpeted with the 
brown needles. For excursions a gentle climb 
may be had to the top of Trembleau Mountain at 
the south, or a walk to the mouth of the Au Sable 
River at the north, or a trip to Au Sable Chasm, 
three miles away, by the electric car which runs 
at convenient intervals — this last being one of 
the essentials of the day and place. 

The K. AuS. C. & L. C. R. R. runs from Port 
Kent, passing over AuSable Chasm (3 miles) near 
its head, affording a good view of Rainbow Falls 
and continjing 2 miles further reaches Keese- 
ville, the end of the road. At Au Sable Chasm 
Station 'busses are taken (25 cents round trip) for 
Hotel AuSable Chasm ($4 up per day). Accom- 
modations are here in house and cottages for 200, 
A large share of the patronage of the house is in 
excursion parties. House and chasm are owned 
by stock company. Thos. F. Quinlan, Manager. 

Au Sable Chasm affords a fine illustration of 
rock fracture and erosion. Admission is gained 
through the lodge, a picturesque octagonal build- 



gpSi OFFICE] 







tOOKOUT 

TO KESviLtr 



THE ADIRONDACKS 49 

ing near its head. Entrance fee, 75 cents. The 
boat ride is 50 cents additional, including car- 
riage back to hotel or station. Large parties are 
admitted at reduced rates. Guides are unneces- 
sary, as guide-boards and signs call attention to 
notable places. The chasm is something over a 
mile in length from Rainbow Falls to the Basin, 
and upwards of a hundred feet in depth, the en- 
closing walls at points rising vertically from the 
water. 

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles 
north of the landing at Port Kent, the sandy 
mouth of the Au Sable river. "Au Sable means 
"of sand." Across from this point is the widest 
uninterrupted portion of the lake, the distance 
being nearly eleven miles. 

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port 
Kent, the steamer passing between it and the 
main land on the west. Here October 11, 1776, 
the first naval engagement of the Revolution oc- 
curred, between the British, under command of 
Captain Thomas Pringle, and the Americans un- 
der Benedict Arnold. The American fleet was de- 
stroyed. The wreck of the "Royal Savage" lies 
under water at the south end of Valcour Island. 
In this engagement, although defeated, Arnold ac- 
quitted himself in such a manner as to win the 
admiration of his enemies and the approval of 
his superior officers. 

Benedict Arnold was born in Norwich, Conn., 
January 3d, 1741, and died in London, June 14, 
1801. As a youth, turbulent; as a soldier, am- 
bitious and bold to rashness. Jealous of his fel- 
low officers, the in niltion from discontented 
rebel to infamous traitor was easy. A brilliant 
commander — his fall was like that of Lucifer. 



THE ADIRONDACKS 51 

Hotel Cha:nplain, the new (rebuilt), is situat- 
ed on a lofty bluff on the west shore of Lake 
Champlain overlooking a mighty expanse of water 
on the east and north and south, and westward 
a far reaching plain of checkered field and forest 
that vanishes into blue w'here the Adirondacks 
in a great panorama of separated mountain peaks 
rise up beyond. With no near mountain heights 
to dwarf its own strosg setting Bluff Point com- 
mands scenes wonderfully varied yet restful to a 
degree that few places can approach. 

Valcour Island lies below like a garden border- 
ed with its varying belt of shrubbery. Beyond 
dotted here and there with islands, stretches the 
broad lake to the sihores of Vermont, the Green 
Mountains beyond rising into the heights of Cam- 
el's Hump and Mount Mansfield. North and east 
are Grand' Isle and the Great Back Bay; at the 
north, Cumberland Head, the sweeping circle of 
Plattsburg Bay, where occurred that splendid 
naval battle of 1814, ( — the last, as tre battle 
of Valcour, 1775, was the first, with the mother 
country—) and nearer, the little island where 
sleep the dead of that eventful day. 

Surrounding the hotel is a wooded park of 
eight hundred acres traversed by winding drives 
and shaded walks, with rustic seats and pavilions 
at notable view-points. A number of commodious 
cottages subject to special assignment of guests 
are scattered about on the grounds. A wide 
sand ybeach — the Beach of the "Singing Sands" — 
extends along the lake shore v/ith bathing houses, 
boat house, etc. Tennis court (with dirt floor) 
is on the lawn in front of the house on the west. 



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THE ADIRONDACKS 55 

Along the lake shore toward the south, and ex- 
tending over rolling country westward is an 
eighteen-hole golf course with commodious club 
house. This course has been recently greatly 
improved and extended, and is a prime favorite 
among discriminating players. 

The new hotel is furnished in Louis XVI style 
and in its equipment combines every modern 
conveuience and is believed to be entirely fire- 
proof. It will open for the season of 1912 under 
the personal management of Mortimer M, Kelly. 
Address for reservations or particulars here dur- 
ing the season. See page 199. 

Cliff Haven, site of the Champlain Summer 
School, is just north of Bluff Point — in summer a 
busy village and a center of intellectual advance. 

isle San Michel (of old called Crab Island) is 
the burial place of the sailors and marines who 
fell in the battle of Plattsburgh. North of this, 
and projecting well out across the lake, is Cum- 
berland Head, from which the shore recedes to- 
ward the north and west, then comes back In a 
wirV sweep, embracing Cumberland Bay. 

The Battle of Plattsburgh took place here in 
1814. Stripped of detail, the account of this de- 
cisive battle is as follows: On Sabbath morning, 
September 11th, 1814, the American 'and forces 
under General McComb, and the American fleet 
under Commodore Macdonough, were simultane- 
ously attacked by the British land and water 
forces, under General Sir George Provost and 
Commodore Downie. The engagement resulted 



56 



THE ADIRONDACKS 



in a complete victory for the Americans, only a 
few small boats of the enemy effecting a success- 
ful retreat. The British also lost immense stores, 
abandoned in their retreat — which served them 
right for breaking the Sabbath. 

The Barracks, occupied by several companies of 
soldiers forming a regular U. S. Army post, are 
near the lake shore, about a mile south of Platts- 
burgh 

Plattsburg, on thewest shore of Cumberland Bay, 
is a thriving city of 8.000 inhabitants. It is of con- 
siderable commercial importance, being on the 
direct line between New York and Montreal, 311 
miles from the former and 74 miles from the latter. 

"Plattsbu r g 
iS thorough- 
Jj cosmopol- 
itan, with 
aD opinion 
to cffer GJ 
every ques- 
tion of the 
day, exert- 
ing no mean 
Influence 
through its 
wide-awa k e 
daily news- 
papers and 
its notable 
weekly, the 
Platts burg 
Republican" 
— instituted 
in 1811 — and notwithstanding its age, one of the 
most reliable and ably conducted Democratic 




THE ADIRONDACKS 57 

weeklies in the State. The town has numerous 

churches, high and graded schools, State Normal 
School 

The First Settler in tliis region was Count 
Charles de Fredenbnrgh. a captain in the English 
army. The wararnt conveying the land to him bore 
date June 11, 1769. The property reverting to the 
state after the Revolution, was granted in 1784, to 
Zephaniah Piatt and others, and incorporated into 
the town of Plattsburgh. April 4, 1785. A company 
was then organized which, in .June of the same 
year, erected a mill a Fredenburgh Falls. The es- 
timate of expense contained, among other items, 
the following: "For bread, $65; for rum, $80." 
They used a great deal of bread in those days. In 
the year 1800 Plattsburg possessed a population of 
less than 300. Within the county limits were own- 
ed at this time 58 slaves 

The Fouquet House is convenient to the sta 
don and very desirable as a stopover place for 
tnose entering or coming from the wilderness to 
lake trains or boats north or south. It was fa- 
mous of old under the Fouquet's, father and son, 
and advertised so extensively abroad that for- 
eigners gained the impression it was about the 
only way by which the Adirondacks could be 
reached. Now it has become the property of R. 
J. Clark of the New Cumberland, and by him 
thoroughly renovated, repaired and fitted with 
modern conveniences, and necessary luxuries, and 
takes its place again as an important feature in 
the approach to the great North Woods. Tran- 
sient rates $3.00 and up per day, with special 
rates for families or extended stay. 



THE ADIRONDACKS 59 

The New Cumberland is on the main street and 
leads as the commercial hotel. It has electric 
elevator, steam heat and electric lights. Rates, 
$2.50. 

The Witherell Hotel is a fine house, with an ex- 
cellent reputation. W . H. Howell, proprietor. 
Rates, $2.50 up. It has a grill room and caters 
acceptably to automobile tourists. 

It is quite the correct thing for parties bound 
south over Lake Champlain, arriving in Platts- 
burg at night, to go aboard the steamer "Ver- 
mont," where excellent accommodations are pro- 
vided, and rise and breakfast at their leisure after 
the boat leaves her dock in the morning. 

Cumberland Head, near which occurred the 
naval battle of 1814, is three miles from Platts- 
burgh. Continuing rorihward the west shore is 
low but picturesque in iis irregular line of deep 
bays and projectirg points, but of little interest 
hisLoiically except for the old fort that once stood 
on Point au Fer, built, according to the best au- 
thorities, in 1774, and the still older one, Fort St. 
Anne, on Isle La Motte, built in 1660. 

Rouse's Point, according to the United States 
Coast Survey, is about 107 miles north of Whitehall. 
It is a place ofconsiderable commercial interest, and 
the most important port of entry on the frontier. 



^ Vi I 1, ^ 7 i 


GATEWAY 

NUMBER 

ONE 





CHAPTER IV. 

Into the Northwest Lake Region via the 

Branch of the Delaware and 

Hudson Kaileoad. 

Gateway No. I leads from Plattsburg into the 
Great Northwest Lake Region over the Chat- 
eaugay Branch of the Delaware & Hudson, divid- 
ing the patronage of the central and westerly 
resorts with Gateway No. 9. 

The first section of the railroad was built by 
the State from Plattsburg to Clinton Prison, at 
Dannemora, 17 miles. In 1880 the road was ex- 
tended to Lyon Mountain, 17 miles further; but 
the influx of Adirondack tourists was increasing, 
and the road that climbed an altitude of 2,000 feet 
to reach the iron mines of Lyon Mountain, must go 
farther into the wilderness. So it was extended 
to Loon Lake. In 1888, 19 miles were added, bring- 
ing it to Saranac Lake, distributing its passengers 
by various stage routes that branch from it to a 
score or more of summer hotels. By it tourists 
reach Chazy, Chateaugay,Loon, Rainbow, St. Regis, 
Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes, Ray Brook and 
Lake Placid, going to Cascade Lakes and Adirondack 
Lodge by stage. Sleeping cars run through from 
New York to Lake Placid without change. 



64 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Through cars leaving New York in the morning 
arrive at Saranac Lake and Lake Placid in the 
evening, enabling passengers to take the stage 
ride from the railroad to the various hotels in 
the cool of the day. Drawing-room cars are run 
on through trains. Sleeping and drawing-room 
car accommodations can be secured, in advance 
at any of the stations. 

Dannemora is 17 miles from and 1,300 feet above 
Plattsburg. Clinton prison is situated here, and 
affords a quiet home for a number of people of 
leisure, who pass their time in meditation, mak- 
ing clothing, and other congenial pursuits. From 
Dannemora, the road swings westerly, around the 
south side of .Johnson Mountain, then north, near 
the west shore of Chazy Lake, then west, and 
southerly to the mines at Lyon Mountain, run- 
ning 17 miles to reach a point nine miles distant 
in a straight line. 

Chazy Lake is nearly four miles long and one 
mile wide. It has three hotels, Lake View House, 
capacity 30; Maple View Cottage, capacity 12, 
both at the south end of the lake near the rail- 
road station; and Chazy Lake House, near the 
north end of the lake, which may be reached by 
row-boat from Chazy Lake station or by carriage 
from Dannemora. 

Lyon Mountain is the center of the iron-mining 
operations of the Chateaugay Ore & Iron Co. 
Practically inexhaustible beds of magnetic iron ore 
exist here and extensive mining operations were 
carried on until fire destroyed the main works 
and building ceased. Blast furnaces for smelting 
the ore are at Standish, five miles distant. The 
ouality of this ore is so good that the old Catalan 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 



65 



AAAP OF 



Forge method of making blooms was in operation 
until quite recently. A price of $125 has "jeen 
paid per ton for this iron. A part of a day can 
be spent here profitably inspecting the mines. 
Ordinarily it is not a pleasure seeker's resort. 
Passengers are conveyed from Lyon Mountain sta- 
tion by stage to resorts on the Upper and Lower 
Chateaugay Lakes. 

Upper Chateaugay Lake is about four miles in 
length and one broad. It empties at the north into 
the Lower Lake, which 
is somewhat smaller 
than the upper. It is 
picturesque with sur- 
rounding mountains 
and rugged shores. It 
is reached by stage from 
Lyon Mountain, 4miles, 
and from Chateaugay 
Station on the O. & L. 
C. R. R. by an 8-mile 
stage ride and by con- 
necting boat through 
the lower lake and nar- 
rows. It has a number 
of summer hotels and 
eottage-camps on its 
shore's. The smaller game birds and water fowl are 
here in their season, squirrels and foxes abound, and 
deer and bear are not uncommon additions to the list 
of the killed. A Small Steamboat runs through 
the lower and upper lakes, landing at all camps 
and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An excursion down the 
winding stream that connects the two lakes brings to 
view at intervals a section of country tkat has been 
*ong settled 




66 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Morrison's (formerly Ralph's) is on the 
east shore 3 1-2 miles from Lyon Mountain, with 
capacity in hotel cottages for about 150 guests. 
It has telegraph office and two mails daily. Stage 
to all trains at Lyon Mountain; fare 75 cents. 
Rates $2 to $3 per day; $12 to $20 per week. An- 
drew and Thomas A. Morrison, proprietors. 

Indian Point House is on the west side of the 
lake near its south end; capacity about 40 guests. 
For rates apply. R. M. Shutts, proprietor. Post- 
office address, Merrill's, N. Y. Fare to railroad, 
$1.25. 

Merrill's (P. O. and Telephone) is near the 
outlet at the north end of the lake, 4 miles from 
Lyon Mountain station. Stage 75 cents. 

The Merrill House has capacity for about 60. 
Oliver Young, proprietor. 

Lower Chateaugay Lake is about 2 1-2 miles in 
length, and less than a mile in width, with nice 
shores and sloping hills on either side. It is 
reached from the Upper Lake by a winding stream 
four miles in length, through which the Ittle 
steamer runs. 

The Banner House, on the east side near the 
north end of the lake, will provide for 75 guests 
in house and adjoining cottages. J. S. Kirby, pro- 
prietor. Postoffice, Bannerhouse. Rates $2 to 
$2.50 day; $10 to $15 week. 

Chateaugay (gateway No. 16, station on the O. 
& L. C. R. R. 45 miles west of Rouse's Point), is 8 
miles north of Lower Chateaugay Lake on the 
Chateaugay river, which continues northward to 
the St. Lawrence. It is a thriving village of about 
700 population. 

Chateaugay Chasm, li^ miles north of the 
station, rivals Ausable Chasm in many respects, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 67 

and deserves to rank among the wonders of the 
Adirondack region. 



Returning to Lyon Mountain we swing around 
its west side, getting a beautiful and comprehen- 
sive view of Chateaugay Lake where the woods 
have been cut away for that purpose. Then 
come forge and coal-kilns, beyond which, wind- 
ing west and south, the road penetrates a wild 
and interesting section of wilderness, until Loon 
Lake is reached. 

Loon Lake extends south from the station, and 
is about two and a half miles long. It is an ex- 
tremely pretty sheet, with high banks and irre- 
gular shores. 



Loon Lake House stands at its south end on a 
high ridge, which, like the rim of some wide- 
mouthed volcano, holds the lake within its circl- 
ing walls, while beyond the land drops 
rapidly down into the deep valley of the Saranac, 
The house and cottages has capacity for 350 
guests. TTie accomodations are superior and the 
table above criticism. Of couurse such service as 
is found here costs money, concerning which, ad- 
dress Loon Lake Company, Loon Lake, N. Y. 
Automobiles meet all trains at the station. Fare 
75c. 

Here the Adirondack Division of the N. Y. C. 
parallels the D. & H. line and the two run to- 
gether for some distance south then gradually 
draw apart, the D. & H. continuing south, the 
Central swinging westerly. Lake Kushaqua is 
4 miles south of Loon Lake Station. 



68-70 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Bloomingdale is 66 miles from Plattsburg, a 
quiet little town with Whiteface Mountain, the 
saliant feature on the east. 



The Sanatorium Gabriels is on "Sunset Mount" 
overlooking Lucretia Lake and Gabriels Sta- 
tion, on the Adirondack Division of the New York 
Central. It was opened in 1897. A group of sub- 
stantial cottages surround the larger Administra- 
tion Building. Patients suffering from lung trou- 
bles, who are pronounced curable by competent 
authority, are eligible. There is no discrimination 
on account of race or creed. Itis in charge of the 
Sisters of Mercy, who may be addressed at Gab- 
riels, N. Y. 

"Forest Leaves," a woodsy little magazine, is 
published here puarterly. Its cover is a dream 
its contents of gentle, wholesome character, sug- 
gested by its title and its cost is only one dollar 

Paul Smith's is on Lower St. Regis Lake, 7 
miles west of Bloomingdale station and 5 miles 
north of Lake Clear Junction from which a spur 
runs direct to the hotel. Paul Smith came 
here in 1861 and built a small house for the accom- 
modation of sportsmen. It soon became a favor- 
ite fishing and hunting resort, and grew rapidly 
in bulk and popularity. It is still much visited 
for sport and leads as a fashionable resort. Par- 
lor and sleeping cars run through to New York 
over the Adirondack Div. N. Y. C. R. R. 
a year. 

Lower St. Regis Lake is about two miles long 
by one broad, and discharges west through the 
middle branch of the St. Regis River. It is about 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 71 

1,600 feet above tide. The only elevation of note 
in this section is St. Regis Mountain, 1,265 feet 
above the lake. From its summit a beautiful 
view of the lake district is obtainable, showing 
over fifty different bodies of water. 

Lake Clear is prominent as seen from the moun- 
tain — a broad sheet of water in the southeast 
about five miles distant with open country and 
cultivated farms beyond. On its east is Lake 
Clear Junction, where the railroad from Saranac 
Lake and Paul Smith's electric spur from the 
north joins the main line of the Adirondack Cen- 
tral between New York and Montreal. 

Lake Clear Inn is on the north shore of the lake 
along which runs a road which, continuing, 
plunges into the wild woods beyond only to 
emerge again at Paul Smith's famous old place. 
This house is now under the management of C. H. 
Wardner, who for so long a time made Rustic 
Lodge on the Upper Saranac a place of welcome, 
and old patrons will recognize in the rustic cabins 
standing about the main house a number which 
once flanked the old Lodge at Indian Carry and 
which during the winter were moved bodily over 
the ice to their present quarters. Mr. Wardner is 
competent, painstaking and obliging and his fare 
is wholesome and to be commended. That he is 
appreciated is evidenced in the fact that many of 



72 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

his old guests will follow him to his larger ven- 
ture here-. Transient rates are $2.00 per day; 
$10.00 to $15.00 per week,^ with special price for 
continued stay, for which address Lake Clear. 
See page 267. 

Malone (gateway 15) is 57 miles west of Rouses 
Point. It is the county seat of Franklin county, 
and a thoroughly wide awake town. The Rut- 
land Railroad extending east and west is here 
crossed by the Adirondack division of the N, Y. 
Central and St Lawrence line running to Ottawa 
and Montreal. 

The Howard House, S. J. & J. A. Flanagan, is 
an excellent house and the best in this section. 
Rates $2.50 up per day. 

Lake Meacham is 25 miles south of Malone. 
It is a beautiful sheet of water, 3 miles long, 
outleting through the east branch of the St. 
Regis river. The Lake Meacham House, sit- 
uated at the north end accomodates about 100. 
Rates $3 up per day. George Cushman, Manager. 

Continuing south 12 miles leads over a good 
forest road to Paul Smith's Hotel. 

Lake Titus lies 8 miles south of Malon, away 
from all railways. The roaads are good and the 
drive from Malone can be made in one hour. This 
lake is 2 1-2 miles long by 1-2 mile wide, situated 
in the heart of ragged mountains, at an elevation 
of 1,450 feet above sea level. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 73 

Mount Immortelle, at south end of Lake Titus, 
commands a view of the entire lake with a broadi 
expanse of sloping mountain side around. This 
was, of old, quite noted hunting ground. It has 
lost none of its popularity of late for the increase 
of deer under existing laws is noticeable here as 
in many other portions of the Adirondacks, and 
the fashionable crowd have not come to crowd 
out those who delight in the chase. Hotel Ayres 
is on the north end of Duane Lake, 3 miles south 

* * * * * * * * 

SARANAC LAKE (village) is 73 miles from 
Plattsburg. It is a hustling town of 4,500 in- 
habitants and thoroughly wide awake to its own 
prosperity. It has five churches, a graded school, 
water supply for street, dwellings and hotels,, 
sewers, electric lights, a live weekly newspaper 
— "The Adirondack Enterprise," general tele- 
graphic and telephonic communication with the- 
outer world, stores to meet all needs, and metro- 
politan in tendencies with a healthy flavoring of 
the wild west. It lies in the valley. Around it 
are protecting hills, farther back the mountains. 
Between the hills run valleys from north, east 
and south, uniting here so that it is approached by 
level roads, winding through the lowlands from 
either side. It shows a picturesque blending of 
the primitive forms of old times with the swell 
structures of prosperous later days that have 
come since it went forth that here was the health 
centre of the wilderness. 

The Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium is a practi- 
cal application of the good to be had here. It is 
a mile below (north of) the village, on a bluff, 
commanding a grand mountain view north 
and east, and well protected from the prevailing 
western wind. It was opened for patients Feb- 



7 4 THE ADIROXDACKS. 

ruary 1. 1SS5. with accommodations for 9 patients. 
It row has capacity for over ore hundred. It is 
not intended as an asylum for hopeless cases, but 
to put within reach of sufferers from incipient 
pulmonary complaints, whose means are limited, 
the advantage to be derived from the Adirondack 
climate, a simple, out-of-doors life, and good 



hygienic, surroundings, with suitable medical treat- 
ment. There is a handsome central building, con- 
taining dining-room, offices, etc., and outlaying cot- 
tages, accommodating 2 to 9 patients each. A 
charge of $5.00 per week is made for each. This 
is below actual cost pro rata, but the deficiency 
is made up by annual subscriptions. The insti- 
tution is under the immediate supervision of the 
veteran specialist. Dr. E. L. Trudeau, whose ex- 
perience has made him a strong advocate of the 
systematic open-air treatment of consumptives 



THE ADIRONDACKS 75 

which is carrier! out at the irstitiition in mosi 
cases. A characteristic scene in mid-winter is 
of patients swathed in wrappers on the piazzas, 
in comfortable steamer chairs, chatting or reading, 
or engaged in such light occupation as may be 
possible with thickly gloved fingers, remaining 
out in what may be called bad weather even, 
from early morning until night, except during the 
intervals taken for meals. Others drive, muffled 
in furs, or where strength permits — thickly clad 
and well protected from the cold — indudging in 
tramps through the woods or over the hills on 
snow shoes. It is not uncommon for patients to 
sleep out of doors throughout the entire winter 
in which case they are put in wheeled beds in- 
doors and then pushed out on the sheltered piazzas 
covered to the nose with thick blankets to tempt 
the almost arctic cold of the winter's night. Many 
have indulged in this heroic treatment and been 
benefitted. During the summer it is the common 
practice to sleep in their cots on the cottage 
piazzas, protected from predatory gnats and mos- 
quitoes by netting stretched overhead on frames, 
presenting something the appearance in miniature 
of the "Prairie-schooner" of the plains. 

The unfortunate rich are not admitted. The 
medical examiners are as follows: For New 
York City, Dr. Edward G. Janeway, Dr. W. B. 
James, Dr. H. P. Loomis and Dr. James Miller. 
For Philadelphia, Dr. J. C. Wilson. For Baltimore, 
Dt. H. M. Thomas. For Boston, Dr. F. H. Wil- 
liams. For Saranac Lake, Dr. E. L. Trudeau, Dr. 
E. R. Baldwin, Dr. Charles C. Trembley and Dr. 
Lawrason Brown, resident physician. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 77 

"The Journal of the Outdoor Life," a monthly 
magazine, is published at the Sanitarium and 
contains articles by the leading lung specialists. 

The Winter Carnivals held here annually, are be- 
coming world-famous. Skating, skiing, snow-shoe- 
irg, sleighing tobogganing and hockey are im- 
mensely popular during the colder seasons. The 
Pontiac Club, with its cozy house and skating rink, 
adds to the sociability among the winter residents 
and the town presents fully as gay an appearance 
in January as in July. 

Railroad service is excellent. Trains leaving 
in the morning reach New York early in the even- 
ing. Evening trains have sleeping cars attached 
running through to New York either by the Chat- 
eaugay division of the D. & H. via Lake Cham- 
plain and Saratoga or by the Adirondack division 
of the New York Central via the west side of the 
wilderness. "--v 

The Berkeley is in the center of the village, * 
with accommodations for 75 guests. A. B. Robin- 
son, long time in active management, is now pro- 
prietor. Mr. Robinson is thorough and progres- 
sive. The table is superior. Public rooms are 
bright and cheery. Rooms en suite. A 
handsome grille room a la carte — a modern inno- 
vation in Adirondack hotels — and private dining 
room for special events are among the new feat- 
ures. The Berkeley is open all the year and well 



78 THE ADIRONDACKS 

patronized by commercial as well as pleasure 
travel. Telegraph and long distance phones in the 
house. Rates $2.50 to $4.00 per day; $15.00 up 
per week. See page 263. 

Fowler's Livery, near the Berkeley, furnishes 
the best of service at a fair price. Advertisement 
on page 276. 

The Riverside Inn faces the main street of the 
village, its east front looking out on Lake Flower 
to which the hotel grounds extend. Pine & Cor- 




THE RIVERSIDE 

bett, proprietors. The Inn is modern, attractive 
and handsomely equipped. Rates $2.50 to $4 per 
day. Per week, $15 to $28. Open all the year. 

Riverside Garage, just east of the Inn, is 
up-to-date in expert mechanics and appliances. 
Autoists will here find tires, gas and oils and 
cars for hire on occasion. Smith Brothers, Pro- 
prietors. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 79 

The Lower Saranac (Lake) is l^^ miles from 
Saranac Lake village. It is a little less than five 
miles long by oqe a'.:!d a quarter wide. It is sep- 
rated into several natural divisions by outspread- 
ing peninsulas and chain-like groups of islands, 
there being of the latter (counting as such several 
huge rocks) one for every week in che year. There 
are a number of private cottages and camps on 
its shores varying from the expensive rustic coun- 
try place to the rude but comfortable log and bark 
affair while on its islands, during the summer the 
white tent and occasional bough house are to be 
found, filled with jolly invalids or sportsmen. 

The Algonquin has a most attractive location on 
high, open ground on the east side of Saranac 
Lake. It commands an extended view of the 
broad lake with its islands and the shores beyond. 
John Harding, proprietor. 

The Inlet is a winding, lily-flecked stream about 
two miles long, bringing the water from the Mid- 
dle Saranac. At the Rapids, midway between the 
lakes, is a lock. 

Middle Snranac Lake Is about two and one-half 
miles in diameter. It contains several rocky 
islands. The shores are bold, and it has the repu- 
tation of being the roughest water in the Adiron- 
dacks. 

Ampersand Mountain may be ascended in from 
two to three hours, following a blazed trail begin- 
ning at the sand beach at the mouth of the brook 
on the easterly side of the lake. From the top 
may be obtained a very fine, comprehensive view. 

Bartlett's (Club House) is a half mile up the 
winding stream w^hich connects the mid.dle lake 
with the Upper Saranac. The Club buildings 
stand on a level with the higher lake, overlook- 




■iH/AWATW/i tiQ^t 



MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE. 

(Surveyed by Dr. S. B. Ward.^ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. SI 

ing the lower. The "Saranac Club" has a charter 
membership of twenty. The stated objects of 
the club are primarily the health, happiness and 
pleasure of its members, but there is ample room 
and royal entertainment in the main building for 
the traveller who chances that way. It is reach- 
ed by boat from the lower lake and from Saranac 
Inn on the upper lake or by a good road, open to 
carriage or car, which circles the three lakes in 
a round of about 45 miles. John A. Flanagan is 
manager. Postofflce, Bartlett Carry, 

Bartlett Carry extends from the club house, 
something less than half a mile, to the Upper Sar- 
anac. Boat and duffle (in the Adirondacks every- 
thing in the way of baggage is "duffle") are car- 
ried over on a cart, for which the employer pays 
50 cents. 

Upper Saranac Lake is 1,577 feet above tide. 
It is eight miles long, measuring north and south, 
and nearly two miles wide at its broadest. It dis- 
charges toward the east from its south end,, mak- 
ing a rapid descent of about 35 feet in 100 rods, 
to Bartlett's, It contains a number of islands; 
those at the south being rounded or level; those 
at the north bold and rocky. The shores are 
thickly wooded and rise into hills, which can 
hardly lay claim to the title of mountains, but 
which are picturesque and attractive. In the dis- 
tance at the north is St. Regis Mountain; away at 
the east Whiteface; toward the southwest Am- 
persand and Seward. Of old the route to this lake 
was generally by way of the Lower Saranac, as 
above described, but the mass of visitors now 
come to Saranac Inn Station, thence by stage to 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 83 

the head of the lake, and by steamer to the vari- 
ous points on its shores. 

Saranac Inn is at the head (north end) ot Upper 
Saranac Lake, two miles from Saranac Inn Sta- 
tion, with accommodations for 250 guests. Here 
may be found every convenience and up-to-date 
appliance looked for in a first class hotel. House 
and cottages are on a point extending into the 
lake from the north, and command a broad ex- 
panse of water with distant mountains. The view 
is equalled in extent nowhere in the Adirondacks, 
except from the high land between Mirror Lake 
and Lake Placid. The soil is dry and porous, the 
peninsula on which the house stands level, and 
the forests, which form a pleasant feature in its 
surroundings, are grove-like, resembling a culti- 
vated park in their shadowy depths. Under its 
present management the Inn has gained the high- 
est praise. The table is exceptionally good. Late 
changes and improvements aggregate an expeo 
diture of upward of $60,000. All the bath rooms 
are heated. Many sleeping rooms contain both 
radiators and fireplaces, so that the house may be 
kept comfortably warm even in the coldest 
weather. The large "Annex" is for the reception 
of guests who may come before the hotel proper 
is opened for the season, or wish to remain after 
it is closed. House and cottages — and on occa- 
sion camps and grounds — are lighted by acetylene 
gas produced by the Colt generator with the most 
up-to-date fixtures to be had. There is also a large 
store on the grounds which ranks among the finest 
in the Wilderness, where can be obtained all the 
necessaries for camp or sport. Especially attrac- 
tive are the rooms over the boat house, and cosy 



THE ADIRONDACKS 85 

and picturesque cabins and camps along shore. 
Guides can be engaged through the management, 
but it is advisable, when possible, to make such 
arrangements well in advance. Among attrac- 
tions to this section are the golf links said by en- 
thusiasts to be an excellent course with some of 
the finest greens in the wilderness 

The G. N. W. W. U. and Postal Telegraph and 
Cable Companies have offices in the hotel. Stage 
fare to Saranac Inn Station is 50 cenis. Rates 
for board, $4 up per day; $19.25 to $70 per week. 
(See Page 268.) PostofFice Upper Saranac. 

Harrington Mills, former manager at Whiteface 
Inn, Lake Placid, owner and manager of Hotel 
Grafton, Washington, D. C, is general manager 
at Saranac Inn. D. W. Riddle is company's super- 
intendent. 

This section is attractive to the fisherman, 
because of the multitude of ponds and streams 
adjacent, there being within a circuit of three miles 
over thirty that are recognized as among the best 
trout yielding waters of the Adirondacks. The dot- 
ted lines on the accompanying map of the lands be- 
longing to the association (Page 84) show the 
carries betvv^een ponds and lakes. Starting at the 
"Inn," trips may be taken by boat and carry, cov- 
ering a period of time from two hours to an en- 
tire day. A favorite trip is one starting 
at the Inn and crosssing the following ponds: 
Spring, Green, Hoel, Turtle, Slang, Long. 
Lake, thence back to the Inn. For obvious reasons 
the hunter with limited time will find this available 
ground. It is easily reached. An excellent house 
renders the isolated position comfortable. It is well 



86 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

out in that wilderness where, north, west and south 
streams and ponds cover the tract like crystal 
beads on net-work of silver. Into this labyrintli 
come the aeer wiio ue.i^nc m slhi wacer and the 
tender food growing at its edge. With them it is 
a favorite feeding ground and they find none bet- 
ter even in the far west. 

This house was a favorite with President and 
Mrs. Cleveland, and was made their head-quarters 
during their visits to the woods. Dr, S. B. Ward, 
of Albany, is also a regular visitor; His camp on 
Markham Point is notably picturesque and com- 
fortable. A pretty little church on the hill back 
of the hotel, erected in 1885, is open for service 
during the summer. 

The Wawbeek and cottages are on the west 
side near the south end of the Upper Saranac. 




WAWBEEK AND COTTAGES 

At this writing it is understood they will not be 
opened for guests this year. 



THE ADIRONDACKS 89 

Johnson Island Cl.cpcl is ajJUL a mile from 
the Wawbeek. Services are held here on the Sab- 
bath during the summer The chapel is open to 
all denominations. 

Rustic Lodge, which stood at the south end of 
the Upper Saranac, has been eliminated so far as 
the public is concerned and its ex-proprietor gone 
bag and baggage, (including a half score or more 
of the rustic cabins which flanked the old log 
structure, over the ice to Lake Clear to provide 
familiar quarters to old guests in a new environ- 
ment at the Lake Clear Inn, of which Mr. Ward- 
ner is now owner and manager. (Page 71). 

Indian Carry Golf Links extend from this 
point south over picturesque ground where once 
tradition says were the corn fields of the ancient 
Adirondack people who gave the place its name — 
it is a pretty tradition anyway and experts say 
the links are fine. Indian Carry continues south 
over the divide to Stcny Creek Ponds one mile. 
(Portage of boats and luggage, 75 cents.) 

Hiawatha Lodge is at the south end of Indian 
Carry. Lodge and cottages outlook over the 
Spectacle (or Stony Creek) ponds and the east- 
ern mountains, and. while practically hidden in 
the depths of the vast wilderness, offers modern 
fittings, and conveniences for a hundred people, 
while touch is maintained with the outer world 
through the long distance telephone brought into 
the office. The original was destroyed by fire in 
1910 but a new Lodge has risen from its ashes 
modern in all respects and better in keeping with 
the requirements of the needs of its newer clien- 
tele gathered under its later management. New 
bungalows have been added and here one may 




wm 



\r 




U. 



.L^i 




THE ADIRONDACKS 91 

be retired as one could wish with the knowledge 
that the social attractions of the larger public 
building is their's at will. Lodge and cottages 
are lighted by gas. Perfect saniutary conditions 
are guaranteed by the manager. For the strenu- 
ous and leisurely are the tennis court among the 
trees close by, and the Indian Carry golf links, 
half a mile awawy. For the sportsman are Adi- 
rondack guide boats and sporting outfits. For 
those who incline to the less hazardous, are the 
broader St. Lawrence pattern. Those who would 
go into camp can arrange for outfits here. The 
Lodge is open the year round and fitted to take 
care of early and late fishermen. May be reached 
by boat and stage from Saranac Lake or Saranac 
Inn station during the season. Experimentally, a 
a special guests road service will be maintained 
by automobile between the Lodge and Tupper 
Lake. Rates, $4.00 per day. Special weekly and 
family rates on application. Address W. L. Beck- 
man, Corey's, N. Y. See page 260. 

Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The 
first and third are small; the middle one about 
a mile the longest way. Stony Creek, applied to 
the outlet of the Ponds, is a misnomer. It is about 
three miles long, sluggish, winding, and difficult 
of navigation, making it advisable to continue 
by road 2 miles from the Hiawatha House to 
Axton, a little below where Stony Creek enters 
the Raquette River. Axton is the outgrowth of 
the lumbering operations of Dodge, Meigs & Co. 
The draw-over from Saranac Lake to this point is 
$1.25 for boat and luggage. For 1, 2 or 3 passen- 
gers $1.50, and 50 cents for each additional per- 
son. 




■01.. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 93 

Raquette River is one of thr; .nost intere^^^in; 
streams in the Wilderness. Portions ars very oea'i 
tiful and wonderful in their solemn beauty- ?. th' 
shallows it is amber, at a greater derth rei. taen a 
rich brown, then almost like ink. So etiV ". runs that 
it seems more like a river of black glas: tna::. water. 
Great, shaggy, twisted cedars line ics banks, their 
branches reaching out and downward toward the wa= 
ter, the sides away from the river limbless and ver- 
dureless. In places it has undermined them until they 
bend over and stand curled upward with the even sweep 
of a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, seemingly 
alarmed at their too near approach to the water, tum 
back upon themselves and hang in great hooks and 
solid festoons from their leaning supports, the whole 
mirrored in the glassy surface where you seem to 
float midway between the heavens above and the 
heavens below. The stream is navigable for boats 
of considerable draft between Long and Tupper 
Lakes. It is probable that in time a line of small 
steamers nnll run the length of this stream to con- 
nect with steamers on Long Lake for the South- 
west Lake Region. From where Stony Creek enters, 
it is 9 miles down the river to Sweeney Carry and ii 
miles further to Tupper Lake. 

Raquette Falls is 7 miles above Stony Creek 
mouth. The water tumttles here about 15 feet. 
\bove the Falls is a mile of cascades and rapids. 

The Carry is a fraction over a mile in extent. 
$1.25 for transportation of boat and luggage. 
Three persons will be carried over in a buckboard 
for $1.50. Cold River coming down from the 
Mount Seward on the east, joins the Ra- 
quette 5 miles above Raquette FaD* 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Something over a mile further is the foot of Long 
Lake, for which see index. 






Sweeney Carry ex'^^ends from Wawbeek west 
three miles to the Raquette River. For transporta- 
tion of boat and ligga^^e across, the price is $2.00. 
Parties of three can rice over on a blackboard for 50 
cents apiece. 

Tromblee's is on the Raquette, at the west end 
of the Sweeney Carry The house is small, affording 
accommodations for only six or eight people, but it 

givec a very ac- 
ceptable dinner. 
Mail daily through 
the season. Open 
from May ist to 
November. Oliver 
Tromblee, pro- 
prietor. Post-office 
address Wawbeek, 
N. Y. Buckboards 
can be had here 
hj east-coming 
passengers for the 
three mile trip 
over, and carrvdng wagons for the boats and luggage. 
See appendix 'for additional particulars. The river 
above this point is delightfully picturesque, marks of 
the desolation caused by the flooded flats not being so 
appaient here as further down. Trolling for pickerel is 
the popular sport and yields most satisfactory results. 
It is ribout 8 miles from Tromblee's Landing by the 
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the 
/cot of Tupper Lake the distance is about 11 miles. 

Tlie Lower Raquette once the most beautiful of 
rivers is to-day a standing protest against the out- 
rages perpetrated in the name of utility — where, as 




AT SWEENEY CARRY. 



THE ADlKONDACKb. 



the result of damming the streams, a broad stretch 
of grixndly wooded valley, whose equal for quiet 
beauty could be found nowhere elsv. in the whole 
Adirondack wilderness, has been alternately flooded 
and drained — that forsootj: the logs could be floated 
to market — until the once fragrant and shadowy 
depths is but an expanse of hideous slime-covered flats 

and malaria- 
breeding p i 1 1 
where the skele 
s of drownec 
s totter to 
thf ir fall or lie 
^ while and ghast- 
' - ^^^ ly ( n the rnirey 
^^ ground. Is the 
-^T^- preservation of 
^ _ the Adirondack^ 
;,;;^^^3 merely a matter 
'- ^^^ of s e n t i ment i 
The desolation 
is greatest as tne 
foot of Tupper Lake is approached, extending then._e 
to Tupper Lake village, the terminus of the Northern 
Adirondack R. R. 

Tupper Lake hangs like a bag on its gathering 
string. The Raquette River is the string. It is i. 554 
feet above tide, nearly seven miles long and three 
broad. It has 25 islands, some level and covered with 
hrifty trees, others barren and rocky, rising steeply 
from the water. County Island is the largest, being 
nearly a mile in length, and nas on its west side a 
precipice known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surround- 
ing country is wild but not grand with mountain 
heights. Mount Morris, at the southeast, is the most 
important elevation of the section. 




THE DROV/NED LANDS. 



THE ADIEONDACKS. 97 

The Prince Albert is on the east side of the lake 
near the outlet. Capacity, 40. R. N. Page, Pro- 
prietor. Private board, $3 day; ?15.00 per week. 
Fare to station, $1.50; two or more, $1 each. 

The Waukesha, half-mile farther south, will 
provide for thirty-five guests. 

Bog River Falls comes picturesquely down over 
the face of the broken rocks at the head of Tup- 
per Lake . A ruined saw-mill here marks the site 
of a past "effort," showing a considerable town, 
with public squares and buildings — on paper. 

Litchfield Park, southeast of Tupper Lake, is 
held as a private preserve by the owner, Edward 
H. Litchfield of New York, an enthusiast on the 
question of the propogation of exotic game, and to 
this end devoting money and all the resources of 
the territory owned by him here to that purpose. 

Little Tupper Lake is an easy half ray's journey 
at the south, the most tedous part of this way be- 
ing the two-mile carry from Bog River into Round 
Pond. It lies centrally in Whitney's "Mountain 
Park." A passable road leads east to Long Lake 
and west five miles to the station at Long Lake 
West. 



Tupper Lake Village, terminus of the N. A. R. 
R., is on Raquette Pond, which was created 
by a dam built two miles below Tupper Lake, 
to facilitate lumbering in this section. When 
John Hurd built this road south to this point 
to subserve his vast lumber interests, this 



98 



THE ADIRONDACKS.. 



was practically a virgin forest. The first train ran 
through July 1, 1890. Now there are grouped 
about its terminus two hundred and fifty buildings 
of various sizes and conditions, churches and 
hotels, school houses and steam saw-mills, with 
capacity for sawing 245,000 feet of lumber per 
day. A steamboat runs from this point to Tupper 
Lake landings. 

The N. Y. & Ottawa Railroad reaches to this 
point from Moira (Gateway 14) 13 miles west of 
Malone on the O. & L. C. 
1 The distance is 56 miles. 
The Blue Mountain 
House (P. O. Gile, N. Y.), 
near Blue Mountain, is 
4 1-2 miles south; 
stage, $1.00) ; will ac- 
commodate 65. Except 
the Blue Mountain re- 
gion, there is little of in- 
terest in Gateway 14. 
The railroad was built 
as a means of reaching 
the valuable lumber of 
this northern region and 
was pushed through to 
Raquette Pond. Much 
of this wild land has been acquired by Wil- 
liam D. Rockefeller, who is fostering the timber 
of that section to make an immense preserve. 




THE ADIBONDACKS. 



91 



CMiawold (station) is on the A. & St. L. R. R., 

about six railes west of Tupper Lake. A plank road 
extendsfrom the station west and north thnmi^h a 
magnificent forest of hard wood to Massawepie 
Liake, the fountain head of Grasse River, one of the 
best trout streams in northern New Yc^rk, and a ii< t<.d 
resort for deer. Mr. Addison Child, to whom tuis >-cc 




LOwoLO STA-rio'* 



MAP OF CHILDWOLD PARK AND SURRcUNUlNuS. 

tion owes much of its prosperity, and Mr. Henr\- r,. 
Dorr, of Boston, together, own the whole woti-rn 
half of township 6, and have preserved, under the 
state law. with the title of CMldwold Park, 



563650A 



100 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

a game and pleasure park of 6,000 acres, embrac- 
ing Lake Massawepie and five contributary sheet 
of water that encircle it. This section is about 
1,450 feet above tide. 

Hotel Childwold on the east shore of Massa- 
wepie Lake is not open. 

One and one-half miles east of Gale is Downey's 
Landing, which is eight miles below Raquette 
Pond. The stream is navigable from above to this 
point, except for short carries around falls and 
rapids. 

Potsdam (Gateway No. 13) is the western 
entrance to this section. A new state road ex- 
tending to Colton, 10 miles from which a fair 
country road continues to Childwood. 

There are two good hotels at Potsdam. "The 
Albion," Geo. W. Barnett, proprietor, and the 
"Arlington," a new house, on the main street of 
the village. Rates $2 up per day. 

There are small houses at intervals along 
the road and river, where entertainment can be 
had at from $1 to $1.50 per day. The "Kildare 
Club" of New York, composea of members of the 
Vanderbilt family and friends, has a hunting lodge 
near Jordan Lake and a park of several thousand 
acres surrounding it. 

Camp So-High is at Long Bow on the lower 
Raquette, on the preserve of Dr. O. B. Coit, and 
is managed by his sons, who are college gradu- 
ates and teachers, as a summer camp for boys 
with nature study, taught with woodcraft and 
practical experience 



CHAPTER V. 

Ray Brook, Lake Placid, North Elba aaI 
Heart Lake. 

PEERLESS PLACID has long been known as the 
' 'Gem of the Adirondacks. " Many places otfer as 
their natural attraction a single lake, bit of forest, or 
mountain. S' ^me have two of these features. Placid 
has all three at their best, two of the most beautiful 
American lakes, virgin forests near on every side and 
literally scores of mountains within a day's walk, any 
one of which would make the reputation of an or- 
dinary resort. The railroads recognize its pre-emin- 
ence and in each of the half dozen scheines for new 
roads or exteusions admit that the chief objective 
point is Placid. The Pullman sleepers and^ parlor 
cars spend the day or night here at the end of the 
line. Leaving New York in the evening they are 
here in time for breakfast, or leaving at 9:30 a. m. 
reach Lake Placid for supper; returning, they 
start for Placid after supper and arrive at New 
York for breakfast, or leaving about 9:30 a. m., 
reach New York the same evening. Thus trav- 
elers by any one of the four daily trains between 
New York and Lake Placid are free from the an- 
noyance of getting up at unseasonable hours for 
the start. The service fits admirably the con- 
venience of guests. Nature's possibilities here 
recognized by far-seing eyes and developed by 
wise heads, have caused the recent phenomenal 
growth and made this the famous summer home 
of the mountains. 

In 1900. Lake Placid was incorporated so it could 
secure new advantages. It now has municipal 
electric light, complete drainage and water works. 







i4 i^'mi 






; W:\ 



nliyWi/m/ '..', /ill I''. 



1 H 



.11 ' ■' 






^^um 



THE ADIRONDACKS 103 

improved roads, a high school with a library, appar- 
atus and a faculty of college and normal school 
graduates of which the town is justly proud. It 
has aiso a beautifuj public library on the shores 
of Mirror Lake, free to all. 

The Saranac & Lake Placid Railroad is 10 
miles long, terminating about a mile south of Lake 
Placid. Cars of the D. & H. and N. Y. C. & H. R. 
railroad run through without change during the 
summer. Transfer from terminus to Lake 
Placid houses, 25 cents each person; same for 
trunks. Arrange with agent on the train. Work 
was commenced on the road May 1st, 1893, and 
passengers carried through July 15th following. 

At Lake Placid Station stages are taken for 
Lake Placid hotels and Cascade Lakes. For car- 
riage or matters relating to Adirondack Lodge 
apply to the Lake Placid Club. See page 111. 

The National Hotel opposite the station is 
convenient and of excellent reputation. It has 
modern fittings, with hot and cold water in all 
sleeping rooms and bath between every two. 
It has large patronage by hunters, fishermen 
and commercial travelers. Garage and livery 
connected. Rates $2.00 per day. Henry Allen 
(formerly of the Grand View), Proprietor. 

Lake Placid (village) is the outgrowth of a sen- 
timent — love of the beautiful in nature. When in 
1873. the writer first visited Lake Placid, the old 
Lake Placid House, known generally as "Brews- 
ter's," with "Nash's," the little red farm-house, 
still standing at the southeast of the Stevens 
House, were the only habitations in this section. 
Now a thrifty village lines the shores of Mirror 



THE ADIRONDACKS 105 

Lake and the road to the south, while summer 
cottages and princely hotels bid welcome to a 
host of summer visitors. 

Grand View is first of the leading hotels reach- 
ed from the station. Its name suggests its charac- 
teristic. It appears on the summit of a hill slop- 
ing sharply towards the south and west and more 
gradually to Mirror Lake on the east. The north 
is more level and covered with beautiful forest. 
The view sweeps the entire circle of mountain and 
both lakes. The grounds of the old hotel have 
been enlarged by buying on four sides till the 
Grand View Park includes all the Mirror Lake 
property and lake front on the main street and 
extends two miles to the west. It includes the out- 
let valley and western heights beyond and is being 
transformed into a private park for the use of the 
Grand View guests. The hotel accommodates 300. 
Tennis, baseball and other outdoor sports are 
provided for. A spacious ball room is a distin- 
guishing feature of the Grand View and fine music 
for dancing continues throughout the entire sea- 
son. Rates, $4.00 up per day; single rooms, $21 
up; double, $35 up per week. See page 259. 

M. B. Marshall, proprietor of Hotel Hargrave, 
112 West 72nd Street, New York, and late Man- 
ager of Saranac Inn, is supervising director. The 
photograph of the "grand vview" shown on oppo- 
site page was taken some time ago. The house 
is now surrounded by a thrifty grove of young 
trees. 

Northwoods inn is on the main street running 
north along the west shore of Mirror Lake. Capac- 
ity about 75. Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per day; $12.50 
to $17.50 per week. Special May and June and 
in September and October. T. A. Leahy, Pro- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. lOV 

prietor. The house is heated by hot air, steam 
and open fireplaces, and has baths and electric 
lights. Long distance telephone in the oflBce. 
Station transfer 25c. See page 273. 

The Lakeside Inn is next at the north. Accom- 
modations are here for about 50 guests. C. E. 
Baxter, Proprietor. Apply for particulers. 

The Stevens House, built in 1886, is on high 
land that separates Mirror Lake trom Lake Placid. 
Rates $4 up per day; $21 up per week. Stevens 
Hotel Co., Proprietors. 

The Lake Placid Inn is at the head of Mirror 
Lake on a point of the narrow land separating 
the two. Capacity 150 guests. Rates $4 and up 
per day; $21 and up per week, according to ac- 
commodations. F. W. Swift, formerly manager of 
Maplewood Inn and the Tahawus House at Keene 
Valley, proprietor. The house is electric lighted. 
It has single rooms and suites of two to four 
rooms with private baths. There are open fire- 
places in public rooms and modern improvements 
throughout. Broard piazzas give fine views out 
over both lakes and boat liveries on both are for 
the pleasure of guests. A summer orchestra is 
one of the pleasant features. All amusements 
common to Adirondack hotels are provided for at 
the Lake Placid Inn. See page 204. For par- 
ticulars address F. W. Swift, Lake Placid. 

Underciiff is on the west shore near the head 
of the lake, accessible by the steamers and 
launches at short intervals. Here are accommo- 
dations for 100 guests. Rates $3 day; $15 to $25 
week. Address, Underciiff, Lake Placid, N. Y. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 109 

Whiteface Mountain stands in the north, its 
base thickly clothed with spruce and balsam, its 
head naked granite, seamed with deep rifts, rug- 
ged broken in outline. Early in autumn and late 
in spring, it wears its white hood of snow, which 
obviously earned for it the name of "Whiteface" 
from the Indian. Its top is 3.008 feet above Lake 
Placid — 4,871 feet above the ocean. Eagle's Eyrie, 
on one of the prominent spurs reached by a trail 
from the bay west of Sentinel Point gives a mar- 
velously beautiful view of the lake. The ascent 
to the summit is made generally by leaving the 
lake at Whiteface Landing and following a precip- 
itous trail three miles. Trails also run from 
Wilmington, at the northeast, and from Frank- 
lin Falls, at the northwest. It affords un- 
questionably the finest mountain view in 
the Adirondacks, giving in different quar- 
ters, cultivated valley and lowland at the north 
and east; broken mountain ranges at the south, 
and the broad lake-spangled region toward the 
west, with beautiful Lake Placid like a mirror at 
its feet. 

Lake Placid Club is on the east side of Mirror 
Lake. Its object is by co-operation to secure, 
among congenial people an ideal vacation or 
permanent country home. The club is not open 
to the general public and no one is received 
as member or guest against whom there can 
be any reasonable physical, socal or moral ob- 
jection. 

The club has clearly defined features which dis- 
tinguish it from other clubs. It has no bar or 
cigar stand, no gambling, stock ticker, and 



THE ADIRONDACKS. il. 

serves no liquor. A chief aim is lo make the club 
a children's paradise by assigning to them 
separate buildings and sections of the ground. 
It has no pretentious menu, no noise after 10 
p. m., no beggars, tramps, peddlers, entertainers 
or other solicitors, and no transients. It dis- 
approves elaborate toilets, display or fashion, 
and encourages -early hours, informality, comfort 
and simplicity. It is characterized by large and 
beautiful buildings, convenient and well equip- 
ped, with the best beds, inclosed sun piazzas, 
library and other comforts and conven- 
iences; by very unusual prctecticn. It has 
over 200 open fires, 500 radiators, 300 lava- 
tories, and 260 baths, and is lighted throughout by 
acetylene. Golf is the great specialty. mdlu hrdlu 
acetylene. Golf is the great game specialty. 
There are practice 9-hole and 18-hole courses, 12 
golf camps and a central golf house with 200 
lockers, hot and cold water, showers, stone fire- 
place and comnlete equipment; also, on the edge 
of the links, the "Golfery," with delightful quar- 
ters for 94 players at about half the cost of rooms 
in the club houses. Over $50,000 has been spent 
on the links, which have 5 miles of fair green 
and are pronounced by experts the most attractive 
in the world. A 9 hole putting green, a 9 hole 
court golf and 2 o'clock golf courts have been 
added, making 47 holes, all in charge of the best 
obtainable professional golfer and teaoher. 

The club estate consists of over 6,000 acres of 
nark, golf links, forest fields and farms. It now 
has 205 buildings, with over 1000 rooms. The 
real estate and modern equipment now repre- 
sent over $1,100,000. While the club is not pub- 
lic, visitors are given opportunity to see some- 
thing of the plant that in fifteen years has be- 




SHORE OWNERS ASSOCIATION 
isse 



THE ADIRONDACKt?. 113 

come famous as the best of its type in the 
world. 200 acres about the 4 central club houses 
and cottages are enclosed in a man-proof steel 
park fence to protect the families of members 
from undesirable visitors. For fire protection 
there are three fire houses and 6 stations, 20 
pieces of wheeled apparatus, 6 engines, 50 lad- 
ders, 500 chemic extinguishers, 50 hand force 
pumps, 500 fire pails, 3 systems of hydrants sur- 
rounding principal buildings in a total of 1800 
gallons a minute. 24 streams have been played 
at once. 

Arden, the Forest theater in which Ben Greets' 
full company plays 5 times each year, has re- 
served seats for 1,000, a stage holding 100 and 
dressing rooms for a company of 30. Electric 
lights in the tree tops make an artificial moon- 
light whenever wanted. It is inclosed with ever- 
green hedge and has camp fires for chillynights. 
There are concerts here from 2:15 to 3:30 p. m. 
on alternate days all summer. 

There are 31 club courts for outdoor games. 
Those adjoining the Forest theater include 11 
tennis, 2 bowling greens, 2 roque, 2 croquet, 2 
tether ball, clock golf, basket ball and quoits. 
These have electric lights and are flooded for 
skating, hockey and curling rinks in winter. Both 
summer and winter club houses have immense 
game rooms, with over 20 indoor games. 

At Forest Hall an Adirondack camp fire in the 
center of the room is unique. Forest Hall Li- 
brary, with its 5,000 volumes and 100 current 
serials with reference books and a dozen study 
tables with low lights, 2 huge stone fireplaces 
and walls chiefly with sheets of glass which in 
winter are tripled, make a room greatly enjoyed 
and admired. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 115 

The food stores hold whole train loads. Fruit 
and vegetable cellar thousands of bushels. 
Twelve cooler rooms take an annual supply of 
4,000,000 lbs. of ice. The heavy meats come in 
on trolleys. The fish room is like an aquarium 
in the number and variety of fish each spread out 
on an immaculately clean plate glass shelt. 

The club has fresh vegetables from its own 
gardens. Its 210 cows are tuberculin tested, 
every one certified by the State veterinary. The 
club poultry plant with its 5,000 thoroughbred 
white leghorns is already famous. 

Table and houses are in charge of recognized 
experts in domestic science, who have a fixed sal- 
ary with no selfish interest in receipts. 

Board and room cost from $17.50 to $87,50 a 
week, depending on rooms, service and 
length of 3tay. The club has been open winter 
as well as summer since 1903. The largest club- 
house, "Lakeside," is open from June 30 to Octo- 
ber 20. 

The club has been open winter as well as sum- 
mer since 1903. Its new winter clubhouse has 108 
rooms and 48 baths. Several winter-built cottages 
are also open all the year. The largest club- 
house, "Lake Side," is open from June 30 to Octo- 
ber 20. Two other clubhouses, "Iroquois" and 
"Mohawk," on the edge of the links and command- 
ing the finest mountain views, are open in July, 
August and September. 

As the club is a U. S. money order postoffice 
open all the year, mail and telegrams should be 
addressed Lake Placid Club, Essex County, N. Y. 



JOHN BROWNS GRAVE 



"John Brown's body lies a-mouldering .'in the grave, 
And his soul goes marcning on." — Old Soti,q^. 

Jolin Bro"WTi, "The old man of Osawatomie, 
came to North Elba and secured a large tract of land 
proposing to es- 
tablish a home 
which should be 
a refuge for the 
persecuted 
black, and here 
undoubtedly ma- 
tured the plot by 
whic h negro 
slavery was to be 
wiped out in the 
blood of white 
men. Here he 
gathered quite a 
company a D o u t 
him, then in the 
fullness of time — ■ 
October 17; 1859- 
at Harper's Fer- 
ry, struck the 
first hard blow at 
slavery in this 
country which, 
like the smell of 
blood to wild 
beasts, rendered 




r/ir^ryi/ ^h^^^jtyny* 



I20 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

any settlement of the question short of a resort to arms 
impossible. The whole is history now. There were 
22 in all, white and black, with the old man when he 
opened iire. When he was forced to surrender, one 
son was among the dead, a second lay mortally 
wounded by his side. Condemned and hanged as one 
of the greatest criminals of the age, yet, when his 
body was borne north to be buried at his old home 
among the mountains it was as a triumphal march, 
for cities were draped in mourning, and bells tolled 
all along the way ! And here one terribly cold day in 
bleak December a few who had loved the old man laid 
his body away in the frozen ground, for he had said 
" when I die. bury me by the big rock where I love to 
sit and read the word of God." Then his large family 
was dispersed, the widow finally selling the farm 
of 244 acres for $800. Later, Kate Field made a pil- 
grimas'e to the grave and told the story, and eighteen 
New York men and one Boston woman added a hun- 
dred dollars each, that the John Brown farm and grave 
might be secured to the public forever. The names 
are Kate Field, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Wil- 
liams, William H. Lee, George A. Robbins, George 
Cabot Ward, Henry Clews, Randolph Martin, Le 
Grand B. Cannon, Chas. S. Smith, S. B, Chittenden, 
Isaac Sherman, Jackson S. Schultz, Elliot C. Cowdin, 
Thomas Murphy, Charles G. Judson, Salem H. Wales, 
Sinclair Toucey, Horace B. Claflin and "a Boston 
woman."* 

Tlie Jolin Brown, Farm is about two miles south- 
east of Lake Placid. A half mile drive through the 
open lane and field, brings you to the house and 
grave. The house is weather-beaten and old, but if 
you want a wholesome country meal you can get it 
there, and a flower, perhaps, from beside the Big Rock 
~*The subscribers to the fund for the purchase of the*John 
Brown farm decided to make over the property to the State of 
New York to be kept for all time as a part of the Adirondack 
Reserve. To this end written consent was obtained from 
the living subscribers and from the representatives of the 
dead, and in 1896, the Legislature passed an Enabling Act. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



121 




;8oo was executed at 



mat Dears across itstace m great letters, '^jonn 

Brown, 1859," 

Tlie Grave is marked by an old, time-stained head- 
stone, which once did duty over the 
remains of John Brown's grandfather 
in Canton, Connecticut. The corners 
are chipped off and defaced so that 
parts of the letters are lost. The upper 
half is in the quaint characters of " ye 
olden time," the lower of amorere- 
' v. cent date ; the face bears the follow- 
'- , ing inscription : 

" In memory of capt'° John Brow 
--'■■• Who Died At Newyork 'Sep' Ye 3 

1776 in the 42 year of his Age. 
" John Brown Born May g 
Charleston, P^a, Dec. 2. 1859." 

•* Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1839, was killed at 
Harpers Ferry Oct. 17, 1859." 

, On the back is the following: 

" In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth 
Brown, Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at Osawa- 
tomie, Kansas, Aug 30, 1856 for his adherence to the 
cause of Freedom." 

"Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1835 was wounded 
at Harpers Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1859." 

Beside the older is a newer grave containing the 
body of Watson Brown, brought here and laid near 
the father, October 12, 1882, after remaining unburieci 
for nearly twenty-three years. Considered by the au- 
thorities of Virginia simply as that of a criminal, it 
was given after death to the Medical College at Win- 
chester, and there preserved as an anatomical speci- 

authorizing the state to accept the gift. This Act was ap- 
proved by Governor Morton, and .hus the farm is forever pre- 
served to the state. This Act has been since signalized by 
the erection (1896) upon the grounds near the grave, of a heavy 
granite tablet, bearing upon its surface the Act of Dedica- 
tion, with the names of the donors- 



Till-: ADIUONDACKS. 123 

men — the mother appealing in vain for the privil- 
ege of giving it Christian burial. Later, when the 
town was occupied by the Union forces, it was car- 
ried off by an Indiana surgeon, and kept by him as 
a curiosity until in 1882. when he informed the 
survivors of its whereabouts and offered to restore 
it for more decent interment. From Indiana the 
poor buffeted body went to the mother in Ohio, and 
was finally brought here, and laid to rest beside 
the "big rock," where he had played as a boy while 
learning strange theories of "duty." 

Cascade Lakes are 2.038 feet above tide, lying 
between Long Pond Mountain, which rises abrupt- 
ly along their south. ai:d Pitchoff Mountain on the 
north, the road passirg east along the north side. 
Originally one lake, it has been bridged by the 
matter brought down by Cascade Brook to form 
two. The Upper Lake is 1-2 of a mile long. The 
lower, much narrower, is something over a mile in 
extent. Both are deep in places and quite noted 
for trout. East of Cascade Lakes tne road finds its 
way down into Keene Valley and places better 
reached from Gateway No. 3. 

Cascade Lake House is 9 miles from Lake Placid 
Station. Capacity 100. The hotel stands on about 
the only available land found in the notch between 
the Upper (west) and Lower Cascade Lakes, oppo- 
site the Cascade which, in the rainy season is a 
torrent, in time of drouth a tiny thread hanging 
down over the face of the cliff a thousand feet 
above. It is notably cool in summer because of its 
altitude and the wind which seems to blow almost 
uninterruptedly through the notch while the plains 
are sweltering in heat. It is the wildest pass in 
the Adirondacks accessible by carriage, and is 
altogether delightful. The rates are $3.50 per day. 



TRMLS 
RADIATING FROM 

ADIRONDACK LODGE 

on AWN BY 

HENRY VAN HOLVENBERG 



^^ 



SCALE 



2. 



i. 



I 90^ 



A. 



>COTT fON»i 



!nvr? 



-C^*^^ 

''O/. 



^^ 



^m3^- 



y^-^k 



NORTH Jil\ ^^^- 



,_ 17 ROCK 



,\\, 



^7^^ 



rK^^^" 



lO^ 



C^^ 



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fAiHDt 



RbO^ 



123-B THE ADIRONDACKS. 

$17 to $21 per week during July and August; spe- 
cial for June and September. J. Henry Otis, 
Manager, Cascade, N. Y. See page 262. 



South from Ames' the view is one of singular 
beauty and breadth. The land slopes away down 
into the valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines 
to the foothills, thence to higher ridges and peaks, 
and finally to the grand heights of Mclntyre, the 
central figure in this mountain picture, flanked as 
it is by Wallface on the west guarding the famous 
Indian Pass and Mt. Golden on the east across the 
wild notch where repose the waters of Avalanche 
Lake. Outlined against the broad chest of Mcln- 
tyre is the lower summit of Mt. Jo, sometimes 
called the Bear. Between this and th e maiD 
mountain, more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests a 
lovely sheet of water 30 acres in extent, with 
shores of white sand. Because of its shape it was 
named "Heart of the Adirondacks." 

In 1877 from the summit of Marcy a party of 
mountain climbers looked out over the Adiron- 
dack wilderness. In the party was Henry Van 
Hoevenberg, electrician, of New York, and a lady 
who, before the excursion had ended, had prom- 
ised to continue with him to the end. From the 
summit of the great mountain peak they selected 
what they thought to be the most beautiful square 
mile of forest, lake and mountain in the wilder 
ness where they could "get nearest to nature's 
heart." This square mile had little Heart LaRe 
as its center and a mountlet overlooking, which 
the man gallantly christened "Mt. Jo," petite 
for the maid, who with him, then planned 
the building of a castle there in keep* 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 123-C 

iig with the wild woods surroundings. Death 
laimed one, but the inspiration remained and 
gradually Adirondack Lodge took form and place, 
as had been planned by the two. 

It was built of rough logs holding still the bark 
that had clothed them in their living form. Colon- 
ades of trees supported the broad piazza and a 
slender tower of logs rose above the tree-tops to 
look out over them to the mountains on every side. 
The devotion pledged to the one who had passed 
on, was given to mother and sister and to the 
monument that grew out of a sentiment into a 
visible thing of beauty. 

No tree was touched or ground uncovered save 
as was made necessary to reach the place, and 
when completed, that it might not be held too ex- 
clusive, Adirondack Lodge was in 1881 opened 
to the public as a place of entertainment under 
certain restrictions. 

Time passed. Fortune proved fickle and the 
Lodge with its square mile of beauty passed out 
of its builder's hands. Later (1900) it was ac- 
quired by the Lake Placid Club which, with true 
appreciation of the fitness of things brought its 
old owner back to remain in charge summer and 
winter through, and for a time all seemed as of old. 
Then came the fire of June 3, 1903, which swept 
through the forest and licked up the Lodge as a 
dainty morsel. The creator of the Lodge, faithful 
to the last, fought fiercely that he might save, and 
failing, would have perished with it, but was 
forced by loving hands to live once more. Then 
faithful to his ideal, he again took up the work 
and will be found in camp ready as of old with 
genial welcome and well earned knowledge of 




HENRY VAN HOEVENBERG. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 125 

woodcraft freely placed at the service of friends 
and his unwritten Adirondack stories told about 
the campfire, continue as of old, filled with quaint 
woodsy ideas and sounding like chapters taken 
bodily from the Arabian Nights. 

A new lodge will be constructed somewhat after 
the old form, but the building has been abandoned 
for the present. There is a lumber camp on the 
site, but no accommodation for visitors. The near- 
est habitable quarters are three miles out on the 
road toward Lake Placid. Carriages may be taken 
to this point, whence trails radiate. See map, 
page 124. 

Mount Jo is a 20-minute scramble (and a breath- 
taking one as the summit is neared — better take 
30 minutes up.) The view from Lookout toward 
the south is the finest mountain view in the 
Adirondacks. 

To Indian Pass (Summit Rock, see page 179) is 
6 miles, requiring about 5 hours for the round 
trip, but it will be better to give a whole day tak- 
ing lunch (furnished by the Lodge) on the way. 
From Summit Rock, Lake Henderson may be seen, 
1,300 feet below and 5 miles away. Close by Lake 
Henderson is the Ruined Village now headquar- 
ters of the Tahawus Club. (See page 173.) 

The Round Trip is through Indian Pass to Adi- 
rondack (night at the club house $2), thence via 
Calamity Pond, Lake Colden and Avalanche Lake 
back to the Lodge, 
miles. See page 129. 

IVIt. Mclntyre summit is about 4i/^ miles, time 
2 to 3 hours up. To top of Mt. Tahawus is 7|/2 



THE ADIRONDACKS 



127 



ii.vaianclie Xiake ihe wildest lake in the woods, 
lies between Mt. Mclntire and Mt. (^olden, 5 miles 

from Adirondack 
Lodge. Its altitude 
is 2. S46 feet above tide. 
Its waters are cold and 
deep. It is a half-mile 
in krgth and lit a 
few reds wide, the dark 
reck rising almost per- 
pendicular for many- 
feet upward on either 
side. The trail, such as 
it is,runs along the west 
side, at one point de- 
scending to the water's 
edge, the place rendered 
passable by means of a 
floating log anchored 
alongside the vertical 
wall. A remarkable 
trap dike here shows a sectionof Mount Colden, split 
dowmward for a thousand feet, its out-flowing rocks 
nearly bridging the lake. 

Lake Colden is a half mile south of the foot of 
Avalanche Lake. Between the two is a small moun- 
tain of debris which came down the side of ]\Iount 
Colden in somie ancient land-slide, imprisoning the 
waters of the upper lake. This probably, next to 
Avalanche Lake, gives the wildest water view in the 
wnlderness. Its outlet is through the Opalescent 
River which, lower dowm, becomes the North River, 
and still lower, the Hudson. On the west shore is a 
log house belonging to the Adirondack Club ^vhere a 
forester is kept "to guard the interests of the Associa- 
h'on and see that laws respecting the preservation of 




AVALANCHE LAKE FROM NORTH, 



*Marcy Camp is north of the Summit one mile away, on the trail 
towards Adirondack Lodge. From the Lodge this Camp is about 4 
hours by the averafC mountain climber. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



game and fish are properly carried out. Near the 
outlet of Lake Golden is an open camp where 
parties going or coming may make themselves rea- 
sonably comfortable for the night. 

Mount Marcy (summit) is 5 miles from the foot of 
Lake Golden. The trail is quite difficult in places 
leading up along the little stream which is the outlet 
of Liake Tear-of-tlie-Clouds resting something 

over a half-mile 
from the top of 
Mount Marcy 
and 4,321 feet 
above tide. This 
is the highest 
body of flowing 
water 1 n the 
State and the 
pond-source of 
the Hudson 
'\river. It is but 
a few rods in 
extent, s u r- 
rounded by a 
coarse bog, 
tremulous over unknown depths ?f black muck. Its 
level floor is black as ink, thinly covered with the clear 
water through which occasional snail-shells shine white 
as snow. About the little pool, stunted trees make an 
unequal fight for life against the cold. A linlehi^beron 




LAKE TEAR-OF-THE-CLOUDS. 



_ THE ADIRONDACKS. ■J^29 

the moantain the fight is given up and at the top only 
hthens and hardy Alpine grasses find refuge in shel- 
tered places. If breathless and athirst when near the 
top, you may find on the west side a huge pocket in the 
rock filled wit]: soft, spongv^ moss. Press the moss 
aside and the space will be full of pure cold water. 
The upper thousand feet is bare. It is naked rock the 
farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side has 
more the apDearance of a hillside pasture than a 
mountain above vegetation, its partial covering of 
Alpine grasses an:l other plants giving it that appear- 
ance. The ascent of Marcy may be made from 
Adirondack Lodge which is nearest of any house 
of entertainment, -jl^ miles distant ; from Keene Val- 
ley by way of John's Brook ;^i2 miles) or the Au 
Sable" Lakes, or from the " Ruined Village " at the 
Adirondack Iron Works. The last two routes unite 
near Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds, It will not be advis- 
able to make the ascent from any direction without a 
guide, although it is possible for those accustonied t 
mountain climbing and mountain trails to do s' 
Those who know all about it will need no advice 
those who do not, will need a guide as no amount a 
written directions v%'ill suffice. Another bit of advice 
Take two days for the trip, and plenty of provision 
and blankets, and camp out somewhere on the way — 
your guide will know where* 

Tlie Summit of Marc>' .s of the oldest known 
rock on the earth. Its head was lifted above the water 
in the early morn of creation and stood for ages bat- 
tling wnth the elements while yet the mighty mountains 
of the Eastern Hemisphere were buried beneath the 
"Xiean. 



■^ CHAPTER VI. 

Keeseville, The Au Sahle River and 
Salmon River Valley. 

GATEWAY 2 leads from Port Kent past Au Sable 
Chasm (see page 40) and tip the Au Sable J^iver. 
Keeseville, on the Au Sable River, five Uiucs 1 rem 
Port Kent, and nearly two above Au Sable Chasm is 

thrifty and 
enterprising 
It has a num- 
ber of fine 
private resi- 
dences and 
public e d i - 
fices, built of 
the beautiful 
creamy sand- 
stone which 
underliesthis 
section of the 
country. The 
water- power 
is utilized in 
the twine, 
wire, andiron 
manufactor- 
ies, and by 
the Au Sable Horse-Nail Company, here, and at the 
Nail-Rod Works, on the road to Au Sable Chasm. It 
has numei ous churches, a graded school, and a wide- 
awake weekly — the Essex County Republican — which 
keeps the public in . healthy state of agitation. 




131 



132 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The Interlaken is on Augur Lake, two miles 
south of Keeseville. The house is three stories 
high and affords accommodations for about a hun- 
dred guests. It has 250 feet of veranda, and — 
as a concession to those who may be timid about 
fires — each has outside as well as inside, stair- 
ways. There are pine groves near the house and 
many pleasant drives in the vicinity. The place 
has many features of attraction to the moderate 
sportsman. There are good fishing ponds and 
streams and, every other day, free transportation 
to some one or other of these is given in the in- 
terests of sport. Augur Lake affords good boating 
and fishing. Beyond, at the south rise the rocky 
walls of Poke o'Moonshine and Baldface Moun- 
tains. Nearby is Augur Chasm, in character 
something like Au Sable Chasm. The Interlaken 
may be reached by stage from Keeseville; fare 
50 cents. Rates $2.50 day; $10-$15 week. For 
particulars address C. B. White, Keeseville. (See 
248). 

Au Sable Forks is at the junction of the east 
and west branches of the Au Sable river, 11.7 
miles above Keeseville. The way is over a "state 
road" along the northwesterly side of the river 
and is extremely picturesque in a quiet, pastoral 
sense, a perfect roadbed making it ideal for car- 
riage or automobile. It is a busy town with the 
J. & J. Rogers iron interests and the terminus of 
the Au Sable branch af the D. & H. railroad. 

The American House is wholesome and is 
worthy of patronage. C. H. Green, proprietor. 
Rates, $2 up per day. Stage for Keene Valley 
connects with morning train. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 133 

Jay is on the east branch of the Au Sable 6.1 
miles south of the Forks. Hotel The Elmwood, 
J. R. Sweeney, proprietor. Rates, $2-$3 per day; 
$8-$12 per week. This is on the State road under 
process of construction, continuing on through 
Upper Jay (6 miles) to Keene (5 miles), beyond 
which is Keene Valley, for which see the follow- 
ing chapter: 

Wilmington is on the West Branch about 11 
miles above Au Sable Forks. The town gives 
marked evidence or former prosperity, and, at 
some past time, was a centre of considerable im- 
portance. Now it is a little hamlet, combining 
the old and the new picturesquely enough. A 
trail leads from this point 6 miles to the top of 
Whiteface Mountain. 

Whiteface Mountain House offers entertainment 
at $2 to $2.50 per day; $8 to $14 per week. F. E. 
Everest, proprietor. This house is specially at- 
tractive for its dainty furnishings and service. 

The Whiteface Club on the west side of the 
river offers attractive quarters for visitors with 
special accommodations and, supplies for touring 
autoists. Rates, $3 per day. E. J. Olney & Son, 
proprietors. 

Whiteface Mountain is best ascended from Wil 
mington, the road leading west then soutu in a 
gradual ascent, which can be made on horseback 
the greater part of the way. There is a camp 
near the summit offering acceptable fare and 
beds for such as wish to remain over night. 

An excellent road — albeit hilly — runs south 
through Wilmington Notch (14 miles) to Lake 
Placid. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Elizabethtown, Keene Valley and the 
Au Sable I-akks. 

Westport (see page 33) is the usual entrance 
from the east to Elizabethtown and Keene Val- 
ley. Daily stages run from morning trains week 
days -via Keene and Cascade Lakes to Lake 
Placid. The Elizabethtown Terminal Railroad, 
extending from Westport station to this point, is 
under process of construction to be in operation 
later in the season. 

Elizabethtown is the county seat of Essex Coun- 
ty, with native population of about 1,000. It is 
peculiarly an American town, having very little 
foreign population, with no mills or forges to fill 
the streams with sawdust, your clothes with 
soot, or your eyes with cinders. It has a spe- 
cially wholesome and instructive weekly in form 
of the "Elizabethtown Post," edited and man- 
aged by George L. Brown; several churches and 
is the birthplace of a number of legal lights and 
celebrities. Pending the construction of the new 
road through Pleasant Valley, Elizabethtown is 
best reached by autos from the south via State 
road to Port Henry and Westport. 

Maplewood Inn is in the valley part of the 
town nearly hidden among surrounding maples. 
Roberts Brothers, proprietors. Rates, $2.50 to 



136 THE ADIRONDACKS 

$4.00 per day; $12.50 to $21.50 per week. Open 
aa the year. It has been grately improved under 
new management and is provided with modern 
conveniences, including gas, electric bells, rooms 
en suite with bath etc. The table is exception- 
ably good and daintily served. It has a cement 
and iron-cased garage of its own convenient to 
the house. 

The Windsor is on the plain at the southern 
edge of the village. Orlando Kellogg & Son, pro- 
prietors. Rates, $3.50 up per day. This is the 
great summer hotel of the valley. A noted stop- 
over house for automobilists and to be heartily 
recommended. The Cobble Hill Golf Links are 
near bV at the south. 

Deer's Head Inn, originally the Mansion house, 
is on the east side of road, near the Windsor. 
This house spreads an excellent table and caters 
specially to auto travel of which it gets its full 
quota. For particulars as to rates, etc., address 
its proprietor, Benjamin F. Stetson, Elizabeth- 
town, N. Y. 

Primes' Garsge, just west of the Windsor on 
the road leading to Keene Valley can make need- 
ed repairs, supply gasoline, oils, etc., and store 
or furnish cars for hire on application. 

Cobble Hill rises at the southwest edge of the 
plain like a huge, rough pyramid. Beyond this the 
level interval narrows to a mere notch. 

Hunters' Home is 7 miles south of Elizabeth- 
town, notable and of excellent reputation. Rates, 
$10-$15 per week. Laverty Brothers, proprietors. 
P. O. New Russia. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 137 

Split Rock Falls, a mile south of Hunters' 
Home, exceedingly picturesque, and the flume 
wild and broken. Two miles farther south is 
Euba Mills, where a road runs west, leading 
through Chapel Pond Gorge to St. Hubert's Inn, 
at the head of Keene Valley. A mile farther south 
is Underwood. Deadwater is 16 miles from Eliza- 
bethtown; Roots, 23 miles; Schroon Lake, 32 
miles. North of Elizabethtown the road runs close 
under the frowning ledge of Poke-o'Moonshine, 
past Augur Lake to Keeseville, 22 miles distant. 
West, the road winds upward through Hurricane 
Pass and down beyond, striking (10 miles from 
Elizabethtown) the north and south road which 
runs the length of Keene Valley. 

********** 

Hurricane Lodge, which stood on the western 
slope of Hurricane Mountain where it descends 
toward Keene Valley, 900 feet below, was de- 
stroyed by fire in May, 1912. 

Keene Centre is at the bottom of the valley, 
12 miles from Elizabethtown. Northward from 
this point the road follows along the Au Sable 
River past Upper and Lower Jay to Au Sable 
Forks, where the east and west branches unite. 
Westward the way leads up through Cascade 
Notch — the wildest part of the Adirondacks 
reached by carriage — to North Elba and Lake 
Placid. 



138-40 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



The Owls Head is here, the usual dining place 
for passengers between Westport and Lake 
Placid. Rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day, $8 to $12 per 
week. Guides and hunting and fishing outfits 
•will be secured if desired and parties met at 
trains and boats if notice be sent in advance. 
Address W. A. Washburn, Keene, N, Y. 

Keene Valley shows the loveliest combination of 
quiet valley, and wild mountain scenery of any 
section of the Adirondacks. The mountains are 
close on every side, rising steeply from the val- 
ley's floor which was once, undoubtedly, the bottom 
of an ancient lake, its one-time surface level indi- 
cated by the ancient beach, to be clearly seen now, 
along its western side. Its outlet may be looked 
for at right or left of the castellated bluff that 
fills the valley, centrally, just north of where the 
Elizabethtown road comes down the long hill 
Three miles south of this point is Keene Vallej 
(village and postoffice). Keene Heights is an 
added 3 miles and 3 1-2 miles farther finds the 
end of the road at the foot of beautiful Lower Au- 
Sable Lake. 

The Keene Valley Garage near the center 
of the town, conducted by G. H. Luck Comany, 




KEENE VALLEY GARAGE 

can supply all essentials and make necessary re- 
pairs. 



THE ADIR0XDACK3. 



141 



Keene Valley House is on the west side of the 
village, with accommodations for 150. Rates, 
$2.50 per day; $li to $16 per week. S. P. Clark, ^ 
proprietor. In addition are a number of smaller 
boarding houses with rates from $7.00 to $14.00 
per week. 

Sontiiwarrl the valley rarrows until in places 
there seems hardly space between the hills for 
river and road 



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ST. HUBERT'S. 

St. Hubert's Inn at St. Hubert's, three miles 
south of the village, is not open as a hotel ordi- 
narily, but temporary accommodations can be 
had (limited to two days) on application, or for 
longer stay on introduction by a member of the 
association. Augustus J. Coughlan, manager 
during the winter of the Great Southern Hotel at 
Bogalusa, Louisiana, is summer manager at St. 
Hubert's. 

The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is south of 
St. Hubert's, including within its limits the Au 



THE ADIRONDACKS 14b 

Sable Lakes and the mountains surrounding them. 
Officers: R. W. DeForest, president; S. Sidney 
Smith, secretary; F. M. Weld, treasurer; W. S. 
Brown, superintendent in charge. The declared ob- 
jects of the association are, the preservation of the 
forests, lakes and streams, the restocking of the wa- 
ters with fish; the protection of game and the ren- 
dering more accessible, by roads and trails, of 
points interesting within its domains. Hunting is 
not permitted. Fishing is allowed only by special 
permit. Boats will not be rented on the Lakes nor 
will goods be sold by the agents of the company 
on Sundays. No malt or spirituous liquors are 
sold on the reserve. The club house and cottages 
are occupied by members of the association during 
the season. At the gate house, photographs and 
curios are sold. The road to Au Sable Lake af- 
fords one of the most delightful drives. Toll, 25 
cents for each person; horse and rider, 25 cents. 
Pedestrians go free. Club members pay $50 per 
year dues. 

Lower Au Sable Lake is two miles long, narrow 
like a river, and extends north and south between 
Resagonia, or "Sawteeth," Mountain on the west, 
and Mt. Colvin on the east rising steeply nearly 
2.000 feet above. There is no trail along its sides, 
which are almost impassable. Indian Face looks 
out over the water, equalled in its imposing 
strength only by the great stone face of the White 
Mountains. The view from Indian Head is won- 
derfully fine. Rainbow Falls, in the gorge over 
across the outlet and Ribbon Falls hanging down 
over the same cliff a little deeper in should be 
seen. The two are divided strands of the same 
stream, which here comes down off the Gothics. 



/ 



144 THE ADIRONDACKS 

Boats can be secured at the boat house at foot of 
the lake. From the head of the Lower Lake a 
trail leads a mile through the woods to the Upper 
Lake. 

Upper Au Sable Lake is nearly two miles long 
by a half mile wide. It is perhaps the most pictur- 
esque of all Adirondack lakes although not the 
wildest. There are a number of Open Camps here 
which visitors will be permitted to occupy when 
introduced by a club member. The guides receive 
$3 a day for services and fifty cents per day will 
be charged each visitor for the use of camp. 

The ascent of Mount Marcy from Keene Valley 
is generally by way of the Au Sable Lakes, the 
way leading up the inlet by boat to Marcy Brook, 
thence along the west side of Bartlett Mountain 
through Panther Gorge, or along the south side of 
the mountain to Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds 

Chapel Pond Road leads southeast from the 
head of Keene Valley, where the right hand way 
climbs the hill to St. Hubert's. Roaring Brook 
Falls may be seen coming off from the Giant at 
the left as the gorge is entered making a descent 
of 300 feet in a series of cascades and chutes. 
Chapel Pond, about two miles from the turn, is in 
the deepest part of the gorge 1,620 feet above tide 
— a lonely sheet more fitting for solemn medita- 
tion than for angler's sport. The Giant's Wash- 
bowl is on the side of the mountain 500 feet above. 
The road continuing leads on to Euba Mills, then, 
branching, runs north to Elizabethtown and south 
through Scbroon Valley. 

Port Henry Gateway No. 4 (See page 31), is 
about 12 miles north of Ticonderoga. The road 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



159 




leads west to 
Moriah, thence 
southwest to 
Schroon River 
(Carson's, $2 
day). Stage runs daily, continuing on to New- 
comb and Long Lake. 

Gateway No. 6 (Fort Ticonderoga) leads to Ti- 
conderoga (village) and to Baldwin at the north 
end of Lake George (5 miles), where steamers 
are taken for Caldwell. Ticonderoga is about 
midway betweein the two lakes. Stage daily 
(Sundays excepted) to Schroon Lake. 

Eagle Lake is 7 miles west of Ticonderoga, in 
a narraw defile on the divide between Lake 
Champlain and Schroon Valley at an elevation of 
about 1,000 feet. It is nearly 3 miles long, nar- 
row and closely pressed by precipitous shores. 
Eagle Lake Hotel is near the east end of Eagle 
Lake. Capacity 75. George A. Houghtaling, y 
owner and proprietor. Postoffice, Eagle Cliff. 




EAGLE LAKE HOTKL 

Pyramid Lake is lOi^ miles from Ticonderoga 
and about the same from Schroon Lake. In the 
lake is a high rounded island which suggests the 
name. Pyramid Lake House is occupied by a 
club. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Luzerne, Schroon Lake, Xorth Creek aj^'D 

THE "Ruined Village." 

SARATOGA is Gateway Xo. 7. From this poin: 
the Adirondack Railroad runs north until 
it strike^ the 
Hudson River 
at Corinth, 
thence up 
along its west 
bank to North 
Creek 5 7 miles 
distart. 

iius^erneis i 
situa-iedatthe 
junc'<.iono£the 
Hudson and 
Sacan daga 

rivers, twenty-two miles north of 
Saratoga. It is inclosed by rounded 
hills, heavily wooded to their sum- 
mits, save here and there a break 
where some ledge looks out on 
the valley below. On the west are 
the Kayaderosseras mountains ; 
on the east, the Luzerne range, 
that has its rise at Lake George, 
and ends where the Hudson, turn- 
ing east, breaks through between 
it and Mount McGregor on the south, where Grant, 
the soldier, came to die. Toward the north the moun- 
tains are broken, rocky and picturesque. These are 




THE ADIRONDACKS. 161 

the outstretching spurs of the Adirondacks, from 
which the Hudson comes flowing quietly along to 
its union with the Sacandaga at Ti-si-ran-do, "the 
meeting of the waters." From this point down 
the river to Jessup's Landing are six miles of 
still running water, then the riVer sweeps around 
almost north again and makes a plunge of 60 
feet over Palmer's Falls, then comes the big 
power plant at Spier Falls, then rapids and the 
"Big Bend" and finally the plunge at Glens Falls. 
Luze e is on the old Indian trail from the great 
villages of the Mohawks to the head of Lake 
George. Here King Hendrick and his braves en- 
camped when on their way to join Johnson at 
Lake George in 1755. 




WAYSIDE INX AND COTTAGES 

Luzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at 
quite an elevation above the village, a crystal 
drop on the hillside, held there by a narrow em- 
bankment through which the outlet finds its 
way out into the Hudson and to the sea. 

The Wayside Inn is on high ground by the side 
of Lake Luzerne. Around it, scattered pictur- 



162 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

esquely among the trees, are eleven cottages 
tributary to the main hotel, where all gather for 
necessary meals and social functions. The 
/house and cottages give home to an even hun- 
dred with publicity or seclusion, as may be de- 
sired. Rates $3.50 up per day transient, $17.50 
up per week. Ernest Serfling, proprietor. 

All amusements common to mountain resorts 
can be had here from golf, tennis, autoing, driv- 
ing or riding to boating, fishing or hunting as the 
visitor wills. Automobilists will find special ac- 
commodations for their cars with gasoline or 
other necessaries of the road. Mr. Serfling speaks 
for himself on page 254. 

Rockwell's Hotel by the riverside was made 
famous of old under the founder of the family of 
noted inkeepers of that name of which the man- 
ager of the Ten Eyck at Albany is the prominent 
surviving representative. 

North of Luzerne the railroad rin^, along the 
river bank, at times crowded clo;-e against its 
brink as the valley narrows down : nd the moun- 
tains grow more abrupt and preciiiitons. River- 
side is fifty miles from Saratoga, rhore is little 
to interest here, save the gracef «' suspension 
bridge thrown across from shore to shore over 
which the tourist goes to Chestertown and 
Schroon Lake. 

Johnsburg is 5 miles southwest of Riverside. 
Hutchins' Lodge is a fine old mansion where Al- 
vin Hutchins of old at Chain Lake is proprietor. 

Chestertown is a thriving little village six 
miles east from Riverside. Its environments is 
picturesque with little lakes and valleys and roll- 
ing hills that rise at times to considerable moun- 
tains, A fine state road leads there and one al- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



163 



most as good thence southward to Lake George. 

The Chester House stands on high ground, 
where the roads cross fronted by a nice grove of 
maples. Harry S. Downs, proprietor. The house 




CHESTER HOUSE 

has a long established reputation for wholesome 
excellence. Rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day, $10 to 
$15 per week. 

Friends' Lake, 3 miles west and south of Ches- 
tertown, is picturesque and approved by many. 

Valentine's at the south end of the lake is 
quite noted as a fishing resort. 

Brant Lake is o miles east of Chestertown. A 
good road leading there over which an automobile 
stage runs regularly during the season to con- 
nect with trains at Riverside, 

Pebloe Hotel on the west shore of the lake, 
near its southern end, will accommodate 
guests. Rates $10 up per week. Philetus Smith 
proprietor. 

Palisades Hotel is also on the west shore, about 
2 miles further north. William Owens, proprie- 
tor. Rates $2 per day, $10 up per week. 



ke, 

125 / 
ith, / 

y 



/ 



164 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

To Schroon Lake over the state road from Riv- 
erside you may go in an automobile now. It's 
like "seeing New York,' only a better air and 
lacks the noise, and incidentally a delightful 
change for the better over the stage coaches of 
old. 

Potersville is a nice little village of a single 
street with rugged surroundings, though the nec- 
cessity for stopping at the Pottersville hotel is 
not so apparent. 

Schroon Lake is surrounded by mountains, not 
high but wild and rugged, broken into curious 
fragmentary masses around its south end, but 
growing smoother as you go north. It is nearly 
ten miles in length, about two wide, and divided 
into two nearly equal portions by approaching 
points at the narrows. It receives the waters of 
Paradox and other lakes and streams on the 
north, and empties through Schroon River into 
the Hudson at Thurman. The Steamboat land- 
ing at the outlet is something less than a mile 
from Pottersville. 

Watch Rock Hotel is on the east shore, 4 miles 
from the outlet. The Taylor House will not be 
opened for guests the present season. 

The Grove Point House stands on an elevated 
point extending from the west shore near the 
north end of the lake, a half mile from the vil- 
lage of Schroon Lake. Capacity 100. Capt. W. 
A. Mackenzie, proprietor. Rates, $3.00 per day, 

Schroon Lake I have .spoken of in general. 
Schroon Lake in particular means the village at 
its head. The main street, through which the 
road runs to the north is a fine shaded avenue, 
the land sloping down to the edge of the lake, 
displaying the whole in a very pretty manner. 

The Ondawa, first as approached from the 
south, has capacity for about 100 and is open all 



THE ADIRONDACKS: 



165 





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the year. $3, to $4 per day; $14-$21 week. The y 
table is exceptionally good. F. C. Bailey, pro- iX 
prietor. 

Automobilists will find supply of gasolene and / 
oils at G. W. Taylor's, directly apposite the On- i/ 
dawa. - 

The Leiand House is the largest of the hotels 
and with two cottages has accommodations for 
about 200 guests. $3 to $4 per day, $21 up per 
week. 

Carson's (formerly Root's) is at Schroon River 
9 miles north of Schroon Lake. (See page 146). 
Northward from this point stretches the beauti- 1 
ful valley until the gradually approaching moun- ' 
tains come together at Deadwater, where the 
Schroon River, now but a mere brook, starts on 
its winding way southward. A little farther on 
is Underwood, home of the Wawonaissa Club, and 
after another mile roads diverge, the one 
bearing toward the right leading down around 
Split Rock Falls, 3 miles to Hunter's Home (page 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 171- A 

141) an;! to Slizabe'htown, 10 miles (page 
135) ; the other toward the left, upward through 
Chapti jrond Gorge to Keene Valley, about six 
miles distant, (page 140). 

North Creek, 57 miles from Saratoga, is the 
northern terminus of the Adirondack Railroad. 
(See page 180.) Stages run week-days from 
North Creek to Blue Mt. Lake. Fare, $2.50. A 
buckboard for the drive carryirg 3 persons costs 
from $10 to $12. The road west, which had been 
allowed to suffer from neglect, has been greatly 
improved. It is now in excellent condition and 
passable for automobiles except in extremely wet 
weather, but the way is long and it is recom- 
mended that private conveyance be secured at 
North Creek for the journey through to Blue 
Mountain Lake, for which apply to agent on plat- 
form on arrival of trains. 

The Adirondack House at North Creek is 
the leading hotel with capacity for 100 guests. 
Rates $2 and up per day. It has steam heat, with 
modern conveniences and furnishings. A free 
'bus runs to all trains. Buckboards and rigs suit- 
able for long or short drives can be secured ai 
the office. Moynehan & Anderson, proprietors. 

The North Creek Garage, operated by the N. C. 
Telephone Company at the central office just 
south of the Adirondack House, can furnish all 
kinds of auto supplies. The plant is fitted with 
lathe and drill-press of the latest type with all the 
tools of the business in charge of a skilled ma- 
chinist. A. Pireau, Proprietor. See page 267. 



-J 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 171-C 

Minerva is 8 miles from North Creek on the 
line of the new state road which is to be con- 
tinued westward past Newcomb to Long Lake. 
Automobile Stage runs from North Creek on ar- 
rival of morning train, continuing on to Newcomb 
in the afternoon. 

Tlie iVIountain View House here affords good 
accommodations and wholesome fare. It is a 
convenient dining place and rooms are reserved 
for automobilists. This is one of the newer 
hotels in the chain owned and operated by John 
Anderson, Jr., of Newcomb. Rates $2.50 up per 
day; special by the week. The house has an 
altitude of 1,400 feet. Toward the east it looks 
over into a deep valley. At the left, past over- 
grown orchards and abandoned farms, the road 
goes galloping away into the woods. Toward the 
right it leads through prosperous farms to 01m- 
stedville, 3 miles distant. This is a-n old settled 
country, restful as the Berkshires, quaint and 
wholesame. There are small hotels and boarding 
houses in and about the villages, at from $5 to $10 
per week. It cannot be described. It is unlike 
anything about the Adirondacks anywhere else. 



y 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Its grass-grown roads and quaint ways are a con 
tinuous delight. Get a horse and an easy riding 
carriage of your host of the Mountain View and 
make a day or two of it. See page 262. 

Aiden Lair Lodge, 7 miles north of Minerva. 
M. F. Cronin, "the man who drove Roosevelt" that 
black night when the rough rider raced to be- 
come president, is proprietor. 

Nine miles north of Aiden Lair a road branches 
to the right leading (2 1-2 miles) to Tahawus 
The main way which is a fine section of state 
road continuing west (5 miles) to Newcomb, for 
which see page 173. 

Tahawus is at present centered in a single 
house, The Lower Club House, belonging to the 
Tahawus Club, whose headquarters are at the 
Upper Adirondack Works. Five miles up, the 
foot of Lake Sanford is reached. The lake is four 
miles long with low marshy shores, punctured 
here and there by round hills and knobby points. 
Just above the head of Lake Sanford is the "Old 
Forge," now in ruins. 

The Tahawus Club leased the hunting and fish- 
ing privilege from the Maclntyre Iron Company, 
consisting of nearly 90,000 acres extending to the 
Upper AuSable Lake on the east and from the 
Lower Works to include Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds 
and Lake Golden at the north, with headquarters 
at the Upper Works. It may be of interest to 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 171-E 

note that the first steel maDufactured in the 
United States was made here. The Maelntyre 
Iron Company is composed entirely of the de- 
scendants of the original three owners of the 
property. They show a gold medal awarded for 
tne only exhibit of American steel at the Great 
Exhibit in London in 1851, and a silver medal for 
the best exhibition there of Cast Iron from the 
United States. A bit of history of a later date 
is in the fact that Vice President Roosevelt, 
while a guest here of James MacXaughton re- 
ceived the sad word that brought him to the presi- 
dency of the United States. 

History of Adirondack. In 1826 JNIessrs. Hen- 
derson, McMsrrin, and Mclntire owned and oper- 
ated iron-works at North Elba, where they were 
shown a piece of ore of remarkable purity by an 
Indian, which, the man said, came from a place 
where "water run over dam, me find plenty all 
same." The services of the Indian were secured 
at once, at the munificient rate of two shillings 
and what tobacco he could use per day, to con- 
duct them to the place spoken of, where the 
water liteirally poured over an iron dam. A 
tract of land embracing the principal ore beds in 
the vicinity, was promptly secured, forges built, 
and a road cut from the lower works out to 
Lake Champlain. But the expense of transpor- 
tation to market swallowed all the profit and the 
enterprise proved a financial failure. The work 



THE ADIRONDACKS 

however was persevered in until the death of Mr. 
Henderson, who was killed in 1845 by the accidental 
discharge of his pistol at a place now known as 
Calamity Pond. The body Vas borne out on the 
shoulders of workmen, and afterwards a beautiftil 
monument placed where he fell, bearing the inscrip- 
tion : '^ Erected by filia/ affecti07i to the memory of 
our dear father, David Henderson, who accident- 
ally lost his life 07i this spot by the prejuatui e dis- 
charge of a pistol, jd Sept., 184s.'" In the d ;ath of 
Mr. Henderson the motive powder was removed and 
in 1856 work was discontinued. In 1858 the surviv- 
ing partners died, and the works were abandoned. 
There was somethmg gruesome aoout the Rume4 



-y^'^'^^l^h^. 




ADIRONDACK IN 1^1^. 

Village when we approached in our tramp or '73. A 
quarter of a century had passed since the hum of in- 
dustry sounded there. Where once sounded the crash 
of machinery and the shouts of children at piav, all 
was still save perhaps the shrill bark of the fox or the 
whir of the startled partridge. Instead of the music 
of voices all was silence, solemn and ghostly. Over 
the mountains and the middle ground hung a dark 
funereal pall of cloud, across which the setting sub 
cast bars of ashen light tha^ ^ell on the neai'er build- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

mgs, bringing out their unseemly scars in ghastly re- 
lief, and lying in strips across the grass-grown street 
which led away into the shadow. On either side 
stood cottages, stained and blackened by time, with 
broken windows, doors unhinged, falling roofs and 
crumbling foundations. At the head of the street 
was the old furnace, one chimney still standing, one 
shattered by the thunderbolt in ruins at its feet. The 
water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo- 
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge 
blocks of iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from 
the crumbling kilns, great shafts broken and bent, 
rotting timbers, stones and rubbish, lay in one com- 
mon grave, over which loving nature had thrown a 
shroud of creeping vines. Near the centre of the 
village was a large house that a'- one time accommo- 
dated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. Near 
by at the left stood the pretty school house, the steps 
worn by many little feet, had rotted and fallen, the 
windows were almost paneless, the walls cracked and 
rent asunder where the foundation had dropped 
away, and the doors yawning wide, seemed to say not 
"welcome "but "go" — 

" O'er all there hung a shadow and a fear, 
A sense of mystery the spirit daunted 
And said as plain as whisper in the ear, 
The place is haunted." 

To-day out little remains of the Ruined Village. All 
but two or three of the buildings that stood in 1873 
have been removed or destroyed. The ancient school- 
house does duty as a fish hatchery. The old kilns are 
overgrown with vines and shrubbery. The big old 
house, re-arrang:ed and modernized, is a hotel under *'*2* 
management of David Hunter, Superintendent for 
the Maclntyre Iron Co., held as a game and fish pre- 
serve for the use of members and friends. The 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

rules of the club proclaim it a "close corporation,** 

but no one understanding the circumstances can find 
reasonable objection as the stringent regulations 
adopted apply equally to all members, no one being 
permitted to hunt or fish outside the ' season a=. es- 
tp'ijlished by law, or to hunt at all except on regularly 
appointed occasions. The Club Houses at Tahawus 
and here, although primarily intended for the accom- 
modations of club members, will provide fare for the 
chance visitor. Price of accommodations is fixed at 
$3 per day for, all persons except guides and servants, 
and no person not a member of the club or their 
guests, will be entertained for more than a single 
night unless under pressing conditions. 

From the Ruined Village to Calamity Pond is 5 
miles ; to Lake Golden 7 miles ; to top of Marcy 12 
miles. See pages 127-130. • 

Lake Henderson is half a mile north of the 
Ruined Milage. It is two miles long with its outlet 
near the center, on the east. From its head a trail 
leads to the Preston Ponds, the head of Cold River, 
which fiv7v>.. N%e:" mto Raquette River below Long 
Lake. Toward the noith we look up a gradual slope 
through Indian Pass ; the dark green sides of Alcln- 
tire coming steeply down on the east side with the 
perpendicular cliffs of mighty Wallface on the west. 

Indian Pass is among the grandest features of 
the Adirondack Mountains. The distance through 
from the Ruined Village to Adirondack Lodge is 
about II milrs. By boat through Lake Henderson 
reduces the walking distance about a mile. From the 
head of Lake Henderson, for three miles, the rise is 
gradual, then we begin to climb, crossing the rivulet 
back and forth as we go upward, making long de- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

tours to the right, at times, ascending the mo-antain 
some distance, and following a level stretch along its 
sides until the wildly dashing torrent is reached once 
more ; then upward and onward, the path growing wild- 
er and more difficult as we proceed, the brooklet bound- 
ing from rock to rock, now lost in some dark cavern, 
now trickling down among the huge boulders or 
gurgling in muffled music beneath our feet, anon 
bursting out, to rest a moment in some mossy basin, 
pure crystal in an emerald setting, on which float 
fairy ships of leaves. We get occasional glimpses 
through the trees of Great Wallface, appearing 
perhaps but a shade or two darker than the blue 
above until at last, through, an opening it comes 
out; vast, grand, overwhelming immeasurable ! The 
eye sees it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, an outline, 
a color and bows beneath its aw^ul weight. The 
giant pines that fringe its brow seem but bristling 
hair the great rifts that scar its sides, but a 
faint tracery of lines where cool gray shadows 
or yellow sunlight, mayhap race swiftly across 
or lay in slant bars along its misty face. 
But the highest point is not reached yet; Ave are 
just entering at the lower gate, and for nearly a mile 
it is a continuous climb over great chaotic masses of 
jagged rocks thrown down by some convulsion of 
Nature, now on some huge fragment that seems ready 
to topple over into the gulf below, now where han^ 
dripping mosses and sprawling roots — stooping, 
crawling, clinging to projecting limbs, climbing 
slippery ledges, upward all the time! At last we 
stand on Lookout Point. Close by rises that grand 
w^all a thousand feet. The bottom of the gorge is 
three hundred feet below. The cliff reaches out 
north and south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in 
its nearness. A long line of great fragments have 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

fallen year by year, and now lies at its foot. 
Hugh caverns yawn on every side and mighty . 
rocks rear their heads where He who rules the 
earthquake cast them centuries ago. Along back, 
down the gorge we look, to where — five miles 
away and 1,300 feet below — is Lake Henderosn, 
a shining drop in the bottom of the great emerald 
bowl. As we have risen, the sweet gurgling 
music of the infant Hudson has died away. 
Then, as we pass onward, comes the familiar 
sound once more^ — faintly at first, then more dis- 
tinctly — the singing of little waters; first trick- 
ling over rocks, then dancing downward, in- 
creased in volume by tributary streams from the 
slopes of Mclntire, dancing away toward the 
north, the impetuous AuSable, twin brother at 
birth and rocked in the same mountain sradle 
with the mighty Hudson that goes rolling south- 
ward to the sea. 

Does it pay to go through Indian Pass? I 
answer a thousand times yes. It costs a little 
exertion, but the experiences and emotions of the 
day will come back in a flood of recollections that 
jLii.t the soul a little higher and makes one better 
for a visit to that grand old mountain ruin. 
***** * 

Three miles from the Junction of the Tahawus 
branch, 12 miles from Aiden Lair, the road 
crosses the Hudson river and, a little beyond, 
passes Lake Harris, noted for its big bass. 

Lake Harris House standing here is a sub- 
stantial building, comfortably furnished and with 
modern improvements — accommodating about 50 
guests. Rates $2 to $5.00 per day. The house is 
lighted with acetylene gas and has furnace and 
steam heat. John Anderson, Jr., proprietor. The 
road was established long ago and had a narrow 



THE ADIfiONDACKS. 1T3 

fringe of land under cultivation, but seems to 
have gone back to nature in places. Mr. Ander- 
son's holding of 6,000 acres of woods and waters' 
is nearly surrounded by miles of State land and 
private preserves devoted to the propagation of 
fish and game where hunting and fishing is only 
by favor, is the ideal sporting ground and made 
free to guests. In the past the condition of the 
road has kept many away, but the loop of the new 
state road now completed through Newcomb, 
promises guests beyond capacity for entertain- 
ment. 

The Wayside Inn at Xewcomb, 1 1-4 mile west 
of Lake Harris, is not too stylish for corduroys 
and shirt waists, but is attractive and nicely fur- 
nished, the fare abundant and wholesome. The 
house is owned also by .John Anderson, Jr., and is 
headquarters for his extensive land operations in 
this section, but is a pleasant "wayside" to fall by, 
and his manager here will make it comfortable for 
thp visitor. Guides and all accessories for hunt- 
ins- anri fishinsf can be had here at Newcomb. 
There are daily mails and telephone connection 
with the Western Union Telegraph. Additions 
to the main house gives a large public room and 
several very desirable sleeping rooms with hot 
and cold water, private baths, large open fire 
places, etc. The house is lighted with acetylene 
gas. Rates $2 to $3.50 per day. Special at both 
houses for long term for which address John An- 
derson, Jr., Newcomb, N. Y. See page 274. 



J 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 175 

A fairly good road leads westward 14 miles lo 
Long Lake. A water route leads northwest 
through Rich and Catlin lakes to Long Lake strik- 
ing the latter near its outlet. 

Long Lake is about 14 miles in length and 1 
mile in width at the widest part, which is near 
its outlet. It receives the waters of the Raquette 
at its head, runs in a northeasterly direction and 
gives them up to the Raquette River at its foot, 
which, flowing northward, passes within about 
2 miles of Upper Saranac Lake, then turns west, 
touching the foot of Tupper Lake, thence north- 
westerly past Potsdam to the St. Lawrence. Its 
shores are strikingly diverse at different points, 
showing bold cliffs, gentle slopes, overhanging 
trees and beautiful sand beaches at intervals 
along their extended stretch. It has several very 
protty islands, the larger ones near the north 
end. 

Long Lake, with Raquette River, forms the 
.'tgular highway between this section and the 
Saranac region at the north. A steamer runs 
mornings and afternoons (Sundays excepted) to 
che foot of the lake and return. Fare 75 cents 
one way. Round trip, $1.25. 

The unsightly barns and dwellings which have 
formerly obstructed the view from the Wayside 
south with their accompanying land have been 
acquired by Mr, Anderson and will be razed or 
removed and the valley beyond flooded with com- 
municating lakes and stocked with fish as a pri- 
vate preserve. A deer park on the north extend- 
ing from the house to the shores of the lake is 
another scheme that has found lodgement in the 
fertile brain of the land holder, in all of which 
guests will be the beneficiaries, 
page 272). 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 177 

Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the 
lake, on the west, is 2,825 feet high. Long Lake 
is 1,614 feet above tide. To the west the country 
is comparatively level. On the east is Mount 
Kempshall;on the north is seen the blue serrated 
summit of Mount Seward, 4,384 feet above tide. 

Continuing northward down the outlet, which is 
the Raquette River continued, Raquette Falls is 
reached 6 miles below. Seven miles further is 
junction with Stony Creek which leads from In- 
dian Carry on the Upper Saranac, for which see 
page 91. 

Long Lake West on the Adirondack division of 
the N. Y. Central, is the most convenient point of 
entrance. The road (20 miles through burnt for- 
est), is rather rough in places, but with light rigs, 
not uncomfortable. 

Long Lake Village lies a half mile east of the 
lake. The section around about, although long 
settled in spots, remains still among the wildest 
of Adirondack sporting grounds. 

The Adirondack House is on the east side, 4 1-2 
miles from the heaH'^ the lake, where the road 
from Newcomb crosses ovei*, going toward Long 
Lake West. Rates, $2 to $2^.50 per day, $10-$18 per 
week, D. B. MoynehaiiVproprietor. It has an 
excellent table, good furnishings, baths, etc. (See 

Carriage to Forked Lake (connecting with 
Raquette Lake Steamer) by prearrangement, 2 
people, $4.00; 

The Sagamore stands on a bluff projecting 
from the east shore of the lake, 4 miles from its 
head. It has capacity for about 200 guests. 
James H. Reardon, well known among hotel men,, 
is proprietor. For rates apply. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

Deerland Lodge is about 2 miles from the head 
in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern bank of 
the lake, seven miles from Raquette and 8 miles 
from Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house 
and 15 cottages, about 150 guests. Cottages have 
open fires, baths and modern improvements, in- 
cluding bath, hot and cold water. P.O. (Deerland; 
and telephone is in the house. Golf (9 holes) on 
the hotel property. Tennis, boating and bath- 
ing are the standard amusements, added tc* 
hunting and fishing for which accessories will be 
furnished on application.. Hotel rates: Tran- 
sients $3-$4 per day, $17.50 per week! (See pagp y 
263.) Open June to November. A. D. Brown &V^ 
Co., propprietors. 

Deerland may be reached via Long Lake West 
(stage or private conveyance) or by Raquette 
Lake Steamer to Forked Lake carry, thence by 
carriage over new road 9 miles to the Lodge. 
In the latter case arrangements must be made in 
advance. Carriage charge for 2 people, with 
light baggage, will be $4.00; 3 people, $5.00. 
********* 

Buttermilk Falls is reached by a half-mile carry 
from the head of Long Lake and a like distance 
up the winding inlet. Here the water dashes 
foams over the rocks in a descent of about 20 feet, 
the name, not very poetical, probably suggested by 
the churning it gets in reaching bottom. This is 
generally understood to be the "Phantom Falls," 
over which Murray went in his boat in pursuit of 
the phantom form, as described in his early 
chronicles of adventures in the wilderness. "A 
very probable story for a minister to tell," said 
my old guide to me once in passing. "Why, I 
drove a brood of young ducks down over there 
once — the old one knew better than to go — she 
flew up stream; but they — a dozen of 'em — went 
over, and only three came out alive. He talk of 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 181 

'shooting Buttermilk Falls' — there isn't Baptist 
enough about him for that water. But there's 
one thing he can 'shoot'; that's the long bow." 
Alas for Mr. Murray's reputation for veracity! 
His beautiful creations of fancy, conjured up by 
that fertile brain, are held as witnesses against 
him, simply because, in his lavish generosity, he 
enricned tne common occurrences of every-day 
life in the woods with the precious incense of 
conceptive genius, and left a dazzled world to 
separate the real from the ideal! The guides 
took him literally, and, though then in the high 
tide of his popularity, had come to the conclusion 
that if his preaching was not a better guide to 
Heaven than his book to the Adirondacks, his. 
congregation might manage to worry along with 
a cheaper man. 

A carry around the falls, 1 1-2 miles of uncer- 
tain boating and carry a like distance followed 
by 1 1-2 mile boating and 1 1-2 carry (horse 
draw-«ver, $1.50 for boat and duffle) lets into 
Forked Lake, through which Raquette Lake is 
reached. See page 197. 

Forked Lake is north of Raquette Lake outlet, 5 
miles long east and west, quite straight on its 
south side, irregular along the north and opening 
up into far-reaching bay — itself the main branch 
on which is strung a succession of deep bays, with 
intervening points extending from east to west. 
********* 

From North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake is 30 
miles. See page 211. Stages run week-days from 
North Creek to Blue Mt. Lake. Fare, $2.50. 

North River is 5 miles on the way and is the 
usual dining place. 

The Ordway Hotel is the best house at North , 
River. W. H. Lynch, proprietor. This is prac- ^y 
tically a new house — built in 1903 — and has mod- 
ern fittings and conveniences, including steam 



182 THE ADIROXDACKS. 

heat and hot and cold water in all guests' rooms. 
It will provide for 50 guests. Table is excellent. 
Transient rates, dinner 75 cents, per day, $2.00. 
By the week $10 to $12. Children, half price. It 
is clean, wholesome and to be commended. 
Thirteenth Lake (4 miles west of North River, 
a fair road) is three miles long by one-half mile 
wide, 1,952 feet above tide, and affords excellent 
fishing. 

A short distance above North River we leave 
the river and climb up through a high notch at 
the west, rising a thousand feet in something less 
than four miles, then descending gradually, cross 
a stretch of burnt land to Indian River. The In- 
dian River Hotel, with capacity for 40 is here at 
the crossing, 11 miles from North River. It is 
frequented some by hunters, but is not specially 
attractive or to be recommended. The Seven 
Chain Lakes are north of Indian River about seven 
miles, reached over an indifferent road. 

Indian Lake (P. O.) is one mile west of 
Indian River. A few houses at intervals 
along the road, a hotel, stores, and a 
postoffice constitute the village. Indian 
Lake. (The lake proper) is about two miles 
south of the village. The original lake was about 
three miles long, but the "overflow" sets back in 
times of high-water, increasing its length to some- 
postofRce constitute the village. 

The Commercial Hotel is a comfortable house and 
spreads a good table. Edward Hickey, proprie- 
tor. Rate $2.00, American plan. 

Palmatier & McGinn, across the way from the 
Commercial, provide for automobilists with gas, 
oils, batteries, etc. 



THE ADIROXDACKS. 183 

The lake itself is 2 miles south of the village. 
The orginal lake was about three miles long, but 
the "overflow" sets back in times or high-water, 




COMMERCIAL HOTEL 

increasing its length to something more than 
twelve miles. Lewey Lake is twelve miles south 
of Indian Lake Village, a passable road continu- 
ing south another dozen miles to Lake Pleasant, 
where the "State road" is found leading out to 
Northville- and Sacandaga Park. 
..Cedar River House is about two miles west of 
Indian Lake (20 miles from North Creek). F. E. 
Wood, proprietor. Capacity, 30. Rates, $2-$2.50 
per day; $8 to $12 per week. 

Blue Mountain Lake is ten miles further, for 
which see pages 211-215. 

The Stone road from Albany continues through 
Amsterdam. (Hotel Warner with a La Carte 
service and garage) branching northward at 
Tribes Hill to Gloversville. (The Kingsborough 



/ 



/ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1S3-B 

is new and thoroughly up-to-date, which autoists 
will do well to remember). From Gloversville 
the road runs north easterly to Sacandaga Park, 
populous with cosy summer cottages and quite 
suggestive of a mountain Coney Island in its 
amusement features. 

The Adirondack Inn among the trees here is de- 
lightfully attractive and its genial host, C. O. 
Chamberlin, a pleasure to know. Modern needs 
are considered in garage and grills for the tran- 
sient. Daily rates $3.00. 

Northville is across the Sacandaga River a little 
farther on and marks the end of the railroad and 
the crossing of the stone road to the east bank. 

From Wells you cross the river and take to the 
woods climbing gradually upward along an ex- 
ceedingly picturesque stream and on to Specula- 
tor at the north end of Lake Pleasant. 

Osborne Inn is on the shore of Lake Pleasant 
at its northern extremity, where the road from 
the south first touches the Lake. It is kept by 
Mrs. William Osborne and offers a homelike en- 
vironment notable even where wholesome wel- 
come and entertainment is the rule rather than 
the exception among inns. Rates to transients 
are $2 to $3 per day. For early summer and late 
autumn the price is special for which address the 
proprietor. Guides and boats are furnished when 
wanted and standard amusements provided. 

The Lake Pleasant House is a little farther on. 
A concrete walk runs to the bathing beach and 
boat house adjoining. Fishing bats and guides 
are provided on application. It is an old estab- 
lished house under new management and new 
fittings. Open the year round. Rates per day, 
$2.00; by the week, from $10.00 to $14.00, with 



THE ADlFtOXDACKS. 1S3-C 

special rates to families, for which address the ^ 
proprietor. Lee L. Fountain. P. O. Speculator. 

The Sturges House has been established here 
for many years and has through all the time 
bourne an excellent reputation. From youth on it 
has been the pride of the couple now venerable 
and enjoying a well earned rest while still wel- 
coming the hoste of friends their right living has 
brought around them. Comforts of the homely 
kind are here found with wholesome fare and a 
royal w^elcome. For the actively incined guides 
and hunting and fishing outfits are provided. 
Rates $2.00 per day; $10 to $12 per week, with 
special for families and for months of June, Sep- . 
tember and October. David Sturges. proprietor, t/ 

Camp Perkins, 6 1-2 miles beyond Speculator, 
is of logs and an excellent example of primal 
conditions in Adirondack hotels. The accommo- 
dations are substantial and the fare robust. The 
road for ten miles northward, though passable for 
cars in favorable weather, is not to be com- 
mended. It should not be undertaken in a wet 
season. At Lewey Lake it grows better and 
along the west shore of Indian Lake is good. (For 
Indian Lake see page 182). 



184 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



CHAPTER IX. 



M/\LONEI67C 
LAK£ TITUJ jS 
Mountain viEy^c. 



C)t\lWOlO PAR^ 
HORSE SHO£ 



CHATEAU6AY 179 



UON MT. 162 

N LAKf H2 

KUSMA(JUA 138 

RAINBOW L 132 

SMITH'S 130 

^RAt<At LAKE 131 



The Great West Lake Region^ 

UTICA 95 miles west of Albany, may be termed 
gateway No. g althou-^h for a tact it supersedes 
most of the old western gateways, and divides with 

east-side lines the 
patronage of the 
important central 
resorts. From 
this point the Adi- 
rondack Division 
of the New York 
Central extends 
in a northeasterly 
direction, c e n - 
trail y through the 
lake region of the 
Adir on dack s, 
passing ah out 
two miles westot 
the Fulton Chain 
to Tuppcr Lake ; 
thence around 
the head of Up- 
per S a r a n a c 
Lake, with a 
branch to the 
Lower Lake ; thence northerly past Rambow and 
Loon Lakes to Malone. Trains leave Grand 



f9 ■^^ '46 




, UTICA 

236 NIUES FROM 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 185 

Central Station, New York, morning and evening, 
composed of Wagner Vestibule Buffet Drawing-room 
and Sleeping Cars, running through without change 
to Fulton Chain Lakes, Childwold, Tupper Lake, 
Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's, Loon Lake, Malone, 
Montreal, and Ottawa- 

The road from Herkimer north is the most pictur- 
esque; the one from Utica the most direct with the 
best train service. The two come together at Rem- 
sen. White Lake is well up in the air but its waters 
are not in evidence from the station. Otter Lake is 
wild and woodsy enough. McKeever, 43 miles 
from Utica, is a big lumber mill with its accompany- 
ing business, and a saw-dust beach beside a made 
pond covered with logs awaiting desiccation. 

Moose River House is 4 miles west of Mc- 
Keever ; capacity about 30. 

* * -Sf * * * * 

Fulton Chain (station) is 281 miles from New 
York. Here is the old Arnold clearing, which a cen- 
tury ago promised to become a centre of consider- 
able importance. This section is often spoken of as 
the *' Brown Tract," and comprehends the lands 
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River, so 
named after John Brown, of Providence, R. I. (who 
must not be confounded with that other John 
Brown the "Old Man of Ossawatomie," who lies 
buried at North Elba), who became its owner in 1793. 
A son-in-law. Baron Herreshoff also came and under 
his direction a large forge was built below the first of 
the Fulton Chain of Lakes and the manufacture of 
iron begun. With science and enthusiasm linked, as 
the chronicle relates the baron threw heart and soul 
into the enterprise and finally — when he found that 
it had cost a dollar a pond to make the iron — threw 
himself into the hole which they had dug and called 
on the men to cover him over. Later to end the affair 
he shot and killed himself. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 187 

Old Forge to-day is quite a thriving town with 
stores, churches, land improvement agencies and 
other indications of thrifty growth. A spur from 
the main line at Fulton Chain iwo miles distant, 
lands passengers at the dock where the steamers 
start with varying rates of speed for various 
points along the Chain of Lakes. 

The Adirondack, at Old Forge, is a worthy lit- 
tle house suggestive of an English inn. Tlie fare 
is good and rates moderate — $8-$12 per week; 
$1.50 per day. Miss Ella Hughes, proprietor. 

Automobile stage runs from Old Forge to all 
passenger trains at Fulton Chain. Fare 25 cents. 

The Forge House overlooks the station and 
steamboat landing and is a convenient stop over 
place in going north or south. Transient rates, 
$3 to $4 per day. A. M. Briggs, proprietor. 

Fulton Chain is composed of eight lakes, their 
combined length being about 20 miles. The chief 
life is centered in the section between and around 
Old Forge and the head of Fourth Lake. The Old 
Forge dam renders the stream above navigable 
and makes First, Second, and Third Lakes, practi- 
cally one sheet of water. Rounding a sandy point 
on which is the summer camp of Dr. Nichols, of 
St. Louis, you enter Second Lake through a broad 
opening, where on the east side, hidden among 
trees, was the summer camp of the late President 
Harrison. At the northeast a narrow passage 
leads into Third Lake. 

Bald Mountain House is at the head of Third 
Lake, five miles from Old Forge. C. M. Barrett, 
proprietor. House and cottages will provide for 
about 150 guests. The central building has open 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

fire-places and wood stoves, electric bells and is 
lighted by gas, presenting a general air of com- 
fort which is very attractive. The grounds are 
ample, opening out into the virgin forest at the 
west and north. Hunting and fishing enter into 
the amusements of the place. Regular mail and 
telephones place the visitors in sufficiently close 
communication with the outer world. 

The table is exceptionally good and wholesome, 
the proprietor assiduous in his duties, and the 
place altogether is one to be commended. Rates 
are $2.50 to $4 per d,ay; $16 to $28 per week. See 
page 273. 

Bald Mountain lies at the west of Third Lake, 
the trail leading away from the Bald Mountain 
House. The ascent is by a gentle rise save at one 
point near the summit, where a breath-taking 
climb is necessary to scale the height, thence 
along its back-bone of rock to the top. From this 
point — the highest in this section — an extraordin- 
arily fine view of lake and wilderness is had, show- 
ing almost the whole of the first four lakes of the 
chain. 

Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, being 6 
miles in length. It is entered just beyond Bald 
Mountain House through a short passageway bend- 
ing like a letter "s." The opening view is a genu- 
ine surprise, revealing a broad sheet of water, the 
shore lined for some distance on the left with cot- 
tages of varying colors, with hints of others here 
and there on the right where they stretch away 
into the distance and are lost beyond one promin- 
ent island. There are upwards of a hundred cot- 
tages grouped on the shores of this lake. A road 
extending along the west and north sides accom- 
modates the many cottagers, and the new railroad 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 191 

which comes from Clearwater station soon joins it, 
continuing eastward to Raqiiette Lake. The prin- 
cipal hotels of the section are on this lake. In ad- 
dition are a number of camps where entertainment 
can be obtained at varying prices, according to 
accommodations, ranging from $7 to $20 per week. 
At the right on entering the lake is The Manhas- 
sitt. "Camp Fulton" is among the trees on the 
west shore, kept by Mrs. F. L. Payne. Camps On- 
ondaga are on the north shore about midway of 
the lake. $1 to $3 per day; $8 to $12 week. p. 239. 

Becker's Camp is at Big Moose Landing, on the 
north shore, i-4 mile from Fair View station. Fred 
Becker, proprietor. 

The Mohawk, a fine new house standing back 
of Camp Mohawk cottages, is a fine specimen of 
hotel construction. 

Eagle Bay Hotel is at the northernmost point of 
Fourth Lake where the Raquette Lake railroad 
touches, then takes to the woods again. 

Cedar Island, midway of the lake between Eagle 
Bay and Arrowhead, is well covered by the various 
buildings which constitute the hotel accommoda- 
tions. A. G. Delmarsh, manager. Rates, $14-$21 
week; $2-$3 day. Dollar Island, in a line between 
Cedar Island and Rocky Point Inn, affords room 
for a modest little cottage. It is needless to re- 
mark that the name does not indicate the price. 

Rocky Point Inn is on a thin promontory project- 
ing centrally from the east end of the lake. The 
point continuing ends in Pagoda Island. Rates $4 
per day, $15-$28 per week. A. G. Delmarsh, pro- 
prietor. 

Bear Mountain (or Bare Mountain as you like) 
and Rocky Mountain overlook the head of the lake 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 135 

and give wonderfully interesting views of lake and 
forest. Good trails lead to the top 

The Wood is a new name to an old established 
resort known formerly as Hess Camp standing on 
high land at the east end of the lake. Capacity of 
house and cottages about 100. Rates $3 and up 
per day, $12 up per week. P. O., Inlet, N. Y. 
All the essentials for sport can be secured here in 
form of fishermen's outfits, boats, guides and 
camp supplies and the fund of woodsy information 
possessed by the proprietor who is an old hunter 
of note is placed freely at the disposal of guests. , 
(See page 247). P. C. Wood, formerly of the Forge j/ 
House, the new proprietor has worked wonders 
in reconstruction and improvements, in doubling 
the capacity of the house, in eliminating the un- 
sightly and beautifying the grounds, and still greets 
guests with the same welcome that won such a 
host of friends at the Old Forge in past seasons. 

The Arrowhead stands in a grove of birches at 
the mouth of the Inlet with accomodations for 
about 125. Rates $2 to $4 per day, $12 and up- y 
ward per week. C. A. O'Hara, proprietor. Inlet t^ 
Inn on the still w^aters of the inlet a few steps 
beyond the Arrowhead, is utilized for the over- 
flow from the larger house. A well equipped 
store in the Inn supplies general merchandise 
and fancy work. The altitude of the Arrowhead 
is officially given as 1717 feet above tide. The 
steamboat trip ends here, the boats starting on 
the return at convenient intervals to connect at 
Eagle Bay with trains for Raquette Lake and for 
outside points. 



CHAPTER X. 



Raquette Lake, Blue Mountain Lake 
AND Long Lake. 

RAQUETTE LAKE is composed of a great mass 
of bays, separated by far-reaching points ex- 
tending east and west. Its greatest length is only 
about five miles measured through islands and inter- 
vening headlands ; yet so irregular is its shape that 
the shore line in its devious windings is over 40 miles 
in extent. The first house built at Raquette Lake 
stood on Indian Point, where 
an effort was made at farm- 
ing; a twenty years' strug- 
gle, however, ended in its 
abandonment, and when I 
passed by in 1873, only one 
lone man— old Alvah Dun- 
nmg-, lived, Robmson Cru- 
soe-like on Osprey Island, 
with his dogs for compan- 
ions — monarch of the beau- 
tiful lake, the Sabbath still- 
ness broken only by an 
occasional party in camp or 
passing boat. Later, Alvah 
gave up possession of this island and built a little 
cabin at the mouth of the Brown Tract Inlet. Now 
how different the scene ! A fibre from the throbbing 
mass of travel has pierced the depths, and its shores 
are ceeming with life. Now swift trains, bearing 
the dust of the great city A^et on their wheels, and 
busy steamers, meet to exchange their loads of com- 




alvah dunning. 



\ 




/ 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 199 

fort-seekers on the spot where but a little while 
ago stood the lonely camp of the old hunter. 

The Raquette Lake Railway is nineteen miles 
long, extending from Clearwater on the main line 
to Raquette Lake. The motive power is steam 
generated by oil. The local fare is 5 cents per 
mile. Lake steamboats running to the various 
hotels and camps, connect here with trains. 
Through sleepers run to and from New York, 

Raquette Lake is the embrio town at the term- 
inus of the railroad and the distributing point for 
Raquette and Blue Mountain Lake matter. See 
map on page 214. From this point steamers 
of the Raquette Lake Transportation Company, of 
which Dr. W. Seward Webb is president and Mau- 
rice Callahan, superintendent, run to local land- 
ings on arrival of trains, while the line boat starts 
for Marion River Carry, where close connection is 
made with steamer for Blue Mountain Lake. 
Through fare, $1.25. Round trip ticket for one 
day. $2. Carriages for Long Lake will meet boats 
at Forked Lake carry by prearrangement. (See 
page 179). 

Raquette Lake Hotel is near the station look- 
ing out over the lake. It is owned by P. Moy- 
nehan, millionaire lumberman of Glens Falls. / 
George C. :peardon is Lessee and Manager. The */ 
house is modern in equipment with good rooms, 
electric lights, baths and sanitary plumbing. It 
has ample piazzas and Is convenient to the sta- 
tion, post and telegraph offices. The table is 
wholesome and abundant. Rates $2.50 up per 
day; $12.50 up per week according to room and 
service. (See page 256). 

Time is ordinarily given for breakfast and din- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 201 

ner here between arrival and departure of boats 
and trains. 

"The Antlers" is a hotel on the colonization plan, 
a collection of camps and cottages which may be 
rented at room rates, and a large central building 
containing assembly and dining rooms with a pic- 
turesque casino at the landing, with its boats, bil- 
liards, social hall, store of sporting goods and 
curios. Rates are $4.00 per day; $21 and upward 
per week. Table board, $17.50 per week. For 
particular address C. H. Bennett. 

Brightside Cottages are almost hidden among 
the trees on the south side of Indian Point. Be- 
side the building shown which contains the glass- 
enclosed dining room, is a larger building, which 
with detached cottages, gives accommodation for 
75 guests. There is no bar at Brightside, and 
neither Hebrews nor those afflicted with pulmon- 
ary troubles should apply. The proprietor is a 
sportsman and very freely imparts information of 
interest. Paths lead from the landing trails 
through the forest along shore and backward to 
The Crags, 230 feet above the lake, from which a 
magnificent view may be had. Steamer stops 4 
times daily. Cottages are lighted by gas. Rates 
are $3 per day; $15 and upward per week. Special 
for June and October. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor. ^ 
See page 264. 

Sunset Camp is on Woods Point, seen on the 
north, as Marion River is approached. The house 
with rustic cottages and open camps affords ac- 
commodations for 85 guests. The steamboat lands 
when required to discharge passengers and bag- 
gage. The proprietor is Richard Bennett, a noted ^ 
guide and hunter, who has spent a quarter of a 
century in the woods gathering information about 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 203 

wild things that run and swim. He gives freely 
an : guests are welcome to draw from the fund. 
To those who are so timid as to feel the need of a 
physician in the wilderness it may be well to state 
that Dr. J. E. Harety of New York spends his ^^ 
summers at Sunset Camp. Sunset Camp launch 
meets all trains at station. A second launch 
(new) is for special service to guests. 

The nevv dir.irg room, finished in native wood, 
spacious and well lighted, is a pleasing feature of 
1905. Price of board is $2.50 and up per day; 
$15.00 and up per week. See page 272. 

The Churches of Raquette Lake are unique. 
"The Church of the Mission of the Good Shepherd" 
(Episcopalian) is on St. Hubert's Isle. Services 
a. . conducted regularly here during the summer, 
the officiatirg clergyman occupying the little rec- 
tory close beside the church. "St. William's" (R. 
C.) is at the right (south) as Marion River Bay is 
entered. Services are held here also during the 
season. 

The School System of Raquette Lake is original. 
No heavy-footed school-boy on his lagging way 
there — but instead a comfortable naphtha launch, 
manned and captained by the schoolmaster him- 
self, which goes tie round of nearly 20 miles to 
gather in the 15 to 20 pupils and convey them to 
the halls of learn irg near the R. C. Church, where ^ 
the master tahes np the ferule and the book until 
the time comes when, in like manner as the gath- 
ering, he re-distributes the budding promises 
plucked in the dewy morning. The launch cost 
$800. The operating expenses are little, fluctuating 
slightly accordirg to t^p nrice of oil and — great- 
est of all — it robs school-days of their horror be- 



204-206 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

sides offerin' an occasional chance for a bit of 
fishin'. It is now proposed to add rural free deliv- 
ery by boat to the lake-shore residents. 

The Camps of Raquette Lake are elegant. Al- 
though built of rustic material found ready to 
hand, it is found that twisted cedar, shaggy spruce 
and silvery birch, in their native vestments, were 
not chosen because they cost nothing. Some of 
these camps are works of art, and filled with 
dainty bric-a-brac, generally, pertaining to woodsy 
things in keeping with their native environment. 

One of the features of the wilderness camp is 
that it is never really completed. It is bound by 
no rule of time or architecture. It expands and 
blossoms with the passing season, and is never 
exactly the same one year that it was the year be- 
fore, though always finished enough for comfort. 

William West Durant has been an indefatigable 
worker and prime factor in the development of 
this section. When, in the winter of '76-'77, he be- 
gan the building of "Pine Knot," it was practically 
in an unbroken wilderness. Alvah Dunning had 
his camp on Osprey Island, and a Mr. TenEyck had 
an old log hut near West Bay. The old "Helms" 
place and the Woods place were deserted and un- 
inhabitable. There were no other places on Raqu- 
ette Lake at that time. The following spring 
Isaac Kenwell put up a house, which he afterwards 
moved across the lake, and in the spring of 1877, 
Chauncey Hawthorn came down to Raquette Lake 
and started his camp at Golden Beach. Upwards 
of $75,000 was spent on Camp Pine Knot, whj'^i> 
was finally sold to ihe late Collis P. Huntington. 
Camp Uncas, on Mohegan Lake, was begun in the 
spring of 1893 and took three years in the building. 
Over $120,000 was expended on that property, 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 207 

which was sold to J. Pierepont Morgan, its present 
owner. Sagamore Lodge, situated on Sagamore 
Lake, was commenced in 1897, and completed in 
the spring of 1900. It has gas and water works 
and is heated by furnace as well as fire-places. 
This camp belongs to Alfred G-wynne Vanderbilt. 
The camp on Sumner Lake was sold to Lieut.-Gov. 
Timothy L. Woodruff, enlarged by the new owner, 
and now known as Camp Killkare. Each of these 
palatial camps are surrounded by quite extensive 
territory belonging to them and are reached over 
excellent roads cut through virgin forest especially 
for that purpose, the main road leading from Un- 
cas Road Station on the Raquette Lake Railroad. 
All these, with others at Newcomb and other 
points, were designed and built by the same head 
and hand. His was a gentle spirit that conceived 
and builded in rare harmony with nature, and the 
misfortune of his passing, already felt, will be 
clearer as the years go by. 

Years ago both moose and elk were found in the 
Adirondacks. The former were plentiful here in 
the last century, but soon after disappeared. It is 
very probable that the principal factor in the ex- 
tinction of the Adirondack moose was not his own 
emigration from the region, as some have main- 
tained, but the murderous rifles of the skin and 
market hunters (white and red), at a time when 
there were no game laws, and when very little sen- 
timent in ff'vor of the protection of game existed. 
The last positive authentic killing of a native 
moose in this State occurred in the autumn of 
1861, when a guide of Long Lake named Palmer 
killed one on the Marion River. The elk left this 
region at a much earlier period, and comparatively 
few persons are now even aware that this majestic 
deer ever existed here, yet the fact is beyond ques- 
tion. 



208 THE ADIRONDACKS. 

December, 1900, an association was formed with 
the object of inducing the State to take up the 
work of re-stocking the forest with royal game 
that had become extinct. Hon. Warren Higley of 
New York became president, and Harry V. Rad- 
ford, secretary. In 1901 the association obtained 
the passage of an act in the New York Legisla- 
ture authorizing the State Forest, Fish and Game. 
Commission to "acquire by gift, purchase or cap- 
ture a sufficient number of wild moose to stock 
the Adirondack region," and appropriating for the 
accomplishment of this project the sum of $5,000. 
June 23d of the same year the late William C. 
Whitney, one of the vice presidents of the asso- 
ciation, presented to the state a herd of 22 elk, 
which were liberated at the foot of Raquette Lake, 
where the carry to Forked Lake begins. 

Mr. Radford was also instrumental in procuring 
the passage of a bill, which became a law, ap- 
propriating $1,500 for the purchase of wild beavers 
to be liberated in the Adirondacks as well as the 
somewhat experimental one protecting the black 
bear which is now on trial. 

The Marion River is one of the crookedest 
rivers in the world. It has no perceptible current 
along its reedy shores, but i^^anders back and forth 
between the low hills, in a succession of loops, 
making the way traversed, which is about two 
miles in a straight line, double that distance be- 
fore the head of navigation is reached. 

At Marion River Carry is the landing platform 
and the open sheds and open cars in which the 
half mile of railroad across the Carry is traversed. 
The motive power furnished is in a little locomo- 
tive which, when practicable, pushes the passen- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 209 

gers across that their sight and enjoyment of the 
way may be more complete. 

Carry Inn is midway of the Carry. It had mod- 
ern furnishings, baths and plumbing, and running 
hot and cold water, but like a number of other en- 
terprises set afoot by Mr. Durant, it, with his re- 
moval from active management, has fallen into a 
state of "innocuous desuetude." 

At the eastern terminus of the Marion River 
railroad a rustic pavilion covers the steamboat 
dock. Here the Blue Mountain steamers are taken 
and, almost immediately, the way opens out into 
Utowana Lake. This lake is about 2 miles in 
length, narrow and almost straight away east and 
west. 

John Daly, an old-time proprietor of "The 
Hemlocks," is building a hotel on the north shore 
near the west end. Except for this opening the 
forest is unbroken. At the east another stream is 
entered which leads into Eagle Lake. 

Eagle Lake is little more than a mile in length. 
It is also wild except for a cleared portion on the 
north towards its east end. Here in 1856 came 
"Ned Buntline" and here he wrote, and hunted, 
and filled the mind of the public with wild reports 
of his erratic doings to his heart's content. He 
married a wife, and buried her, here, and then, 
tired of the old place, drifted out into the world 
again. He was foremost in organizing the order 
of the "United Americans" and the "Patriotic Or- 
der Sons of America." He died July 16, 1886, at 
his mountain home, the "Eagle's Nest," in Dela- 
ware County, N. Y. A bit of the old log "Eagle's 
Nest," roofed over like a shrine, is here, between 
the present club buildings and the dock where the 
boat lands. 



210 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



Ned Buntline (Edward Z. C.Judson) was bom 
at Stamford, N. \'., March 20, 1823^ His adventur- 
ous career began in early childhood. He killed his 
lirst deer when eight 3'ears of age, ran off to sea at 
eleven, was promoted * to midshipman when only 
thirteen, the same year fought seven duels with fellow- 
midshipmen who refused 
to mess with him on ac- 
count of his suppor,ed in- 
feriority, aija threatened 
to deplete the whole bud- 
ding navy unless he was 
acknowledged as an 
equal. The navy wilted! 
He served with credit in 
the Seminole war, and in 
the Mexican war, and 
when the war cloud broke 
over the South, his 
venturesome spirit called 
him . to the field once 
more. Five wounds by 
sabre and bullet, one of 
which made him lame for life, testify to his service for 
the country he served so proudly and gladly, while 
with fine scorn he refused the proffered pension. 
Later, at intervals, as novelist, dramatist, actor and 
temperance advocate he filled the public mind like — 
no one under the sun but only "Ned Buntline " the 
irrepressible. His first story, " The Captain's Pig," 
was published in his fifteenth year. As a writer of 
" Frontier Fiction " he was unexcelled. Buffalo Bill, 
Texas Jack, and Wild Bill were made famous by his 
stories of border life. His income as a story writer 
amounted to $20,000 annually. His literary produc- 
tions would make more than two hundred large vol- 
umes. 




NED BUNTLINE. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 211-213 

The Eagle's Nest Golf Links formed a part of 
the Durant scheme of improvements, and much 
moEey was expended here. The property is now 
held for private uses. 

Memorial Bridge spans the old outlet of Blue 
Mountain Lake, now side-tracked for the straight 
channel dug for the easier passage of steamboats. 
It is of heavy rustic design, resting on massive 
stone abutments, erected to the memory of Dr. 
Thomas Clark Durant, as shown by the bronze 
tablet let into the masonry. 

Blue Mountain Lake is an irregular oval, nearly 
3 miles its longest way, resting 1,800 feet above 
tide. As it opens up with our approach we see on 
the right the summer camp of Col. Duryea of New 
York. On a low point farther on is "The Utowana," 
built in 1881, but proved in advance of the needs 
of the section, and is now closed. Beyond, in 
the bight of the bay, is the little hamlet of Blue 
Mountain Lake, with postoffice, stores and The 
Lake View Hotel. 

The Blue Mountain House is seen on a spur of 
the mountain, straight away as the view opens, 
200 feet above the lake, about a mile beyond the 
last landing. Capacity of house and cottages 100. 
Rates, $2.50 to $3.50 day, $10.50 to $21.00 week. 
Open June to November. Telegraph, telephone 
and postofRce, "Towahloondah," in the house. M. 
Tyler Merwin, proprietor. Garage at the Blue 
Mountain House. The view is one of the loveliest 
imaginable, revealing the lake in its en- 
tirety with the island studded plain below, the 
receding shores leading away to the outlet. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



215 



A fleet of daiuty Adiroudack boats lie snugly ia boat- 
house, or at rest on the sandy beach. The fare 
is wholesome, abundant and cleanly. 

Stages run from Blue Mountain Lake to Long 
Lake daily on arrival of mid-day boat. Fare, $1.50. 
See page 272. 

Garage at the Blue Mountain House. 




8LUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE 
AND PROPRIETOR 



216 THE ADIKONDACKS. 

Big Moose Lake lies five miles in an air line 
north of Fourth Lake on the Fulton Chain, and 
two miles east of the Big Moose station on the 
Adirondack division of the N. Y, C. and H. R. 
R. R. This is quite a picturesque section 
and round the lake are grouped a number 
cl very satisfactory places of entertainment. 

Beaver River (Station), is about 20 miles north 
of Fulton Chain (30 1-2 from New York). A 
small steamer runs from the landing down the 
river to Beaver Club House, carrying mails, 
and road leads west to"*the Fenton House. 

Tiie Fenton House is at Beaver Lake, C. 
Fenton Parker, proprietor. P. O. address, 
Number Four, Lewis Co. Rates, $2 per day; 
$10-$12 per week. Open April to December. 
This point is best reached via the R. W. & 
O. R. R. to Lowville, thence by daily 
stage (buckboard) 18 miles to this point. 
Fare $2. Beaver Lake is 1 1-2 miles in length. A 
small body of water, closely connected on the 
south, is called Beaver Pond. Crooked Lake may 
be reached by boat, 1 1-2 miles, and carry to the 
north 1 3-4 miles. 

Lake Bonaparte (station) is 18 miles from Car- 
thage on the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. Here 
in 1828, came Joseph Bonaparte, who under his 
younger brother, the great Napoleon, had been 
kirg of Naples in 1806 and king of Spain in 1808, 
built "The Hermitage" on the shore of the lake, 
which was within the 150,000 acres wbich he had 
purchased here. The ruins of the old Hermitage 
still remain. 

The New Hermitage is a hotel with capacity 
for 1.^0 2nests. Dnvir] Scanlan, proprietor. Rates 
$2-$2.50 per day. P. O. Bonaparte. 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 217 

Benson Mines is 43 miles from Carthage. From 
this the Cranberry Lake Railroad runs (6 miles) 
to Wanakena, at the foot of Inlet Rapids, where 
steamers are taken for points on Cranberry Lake. 

Cranberry Lake is one of the largest bodies of 
water in the Great Wilderness, covering perhaps 
with its present overflow more surface than any 
other. It is 1,540 feet above tide and surrounded 
by forests that remai^i among the very wildest in 
the State. 

Hotel Wanakena at Wanakena station will pro- ^ 
vide for 125. W. A. Bean, proprietor. 

Bear Mountain Camp is on the main lake 3. 
miles from the outlet. Capacity 50. J. i\I. Balder- 
son, proprietor. 

The New Columbian Park Hotel on the west 
shore near the outlet will provide for 75. Neil > 
Shaw, proprietor. *^ 

Cranberry Lake Inn in the village at the north 
end of the lake is owned by the Emporium Lum.- 
ber Company. Capacity 60. 

The White Birch will provide for 40. Edwin . 
Aldrich, proprietor. Address as above for par- ^ 
ticulars. 



I 



CHAPTER XII. 

Trout Fishing. Flies, Suggestions, Etc. 
By A. Nelsoji Cheney. 

N New York State there are but two species of trout 
native to its waters, the common brook or speckled 
trout, Salvelinus fonti?ialis, and the lake trout mis- 
called salmon trout, Salvelinus naniaycush. Other 
trov.t have been generously introduced into very many 
(;f the liikco, ponds and streams of the State, notably 
the brown trout, Salnio farlo, which is the common 
l-roolc trout of Eu'-ope, and which our National Fish 
Conimission has decreed shall be known as the " von 
Behr trout," because the fish were first sent to this 
country by the late Dr. von Behr, President of the 
j-erraan Fisher}^ Association ; the Loch Leven trout 
"rom the lake of the same name in Scotland, and the 
rainbow trout from the Pacific slope. All of these 
fish have been planted in Adirondack waters, the na- 
tive trout to restock the waters and the other specie? 
to add to the variety. It is quite; out of the question 
in the limits of this chapter to give any hard and fast 
rules or directions for successful fishing, and what fol- 
lows may be regarded as suggestions only. At the 
present time trout fishing in the Adirondacks is con« 
fined to the two native species, the lake trout of the 
large, deep, cold lakes, and the brook trout of the 
streams and ponds, for they are brook trout, as we 
have learned to call them, whether caught in moun- 
tain brook, river, pond or lake, but I shall write of 
them as found in the streams. 

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds, 
and the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook 
trout will be found in the deep water and holes of the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

brooks, and it is hard work to get them to rise to a fly. 
They probably know that flies are out of season at 
this time. If the fishing fever is on, you must take a 
plebian Avorm and let it lie on the bottom until it is 
sucked in by some lazy trout; then "yank." A 
little later, when the snow wa^er is a thing of the 
past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black 
fly and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured, 
and the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in 
rough water, has become an athlete, then take your 
rod, attach the patrician fly, and cast ever so gently 
at the head of the riffs, where a stone makes a little 
eddy, working down gradually to the pool at the foot 
of the rapids, where the heads of the family "re- 
ceive," if they have not already anticipated your 
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and 
taken your fly with a leap that shows you what you 
have to contend with. As the weather grows warmer 
they will drop back to the deep shady holes, invigora- 
ted and fattened by their visit to the'graveled-bottom 
rapids. It may be that you will now be obliged to re- 
turn to the worm or to a live chub or shiner, or the 
tail of either, that when it is let down into the hole 
with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl 
like a thing of life. I say you may be obliged to re- 
sort to this, for there are holes in streams where it 
would be folly to attempt to cast a fly. If a person 
wishes to pass them by because he never fishes with 
other than a fly, some one not so fastidious may come 
after and bring to basket some of the oldest inhabi- 
tants of the brook. Should you fish one day and find 
that the trout are all seeking the seclusion of the 
deep holes and the evening, night or next day brings 
a shower to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the 
shower is over try it again, but fish the rapids, for the 
trout will have come out to see what the flood has 
brought for them to feast upon. A little later the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 

deep holes get warm by reason of low water and con- 
tinued hot weather. The trout have their resorts at 
this season as well as the angler, and so they take 
their families and travel to some portion of the stream 
where a cold spring comes in, or bubbles up from the 
bottom. At these "spring holes" the trout will be 
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game 
law has been observed. 

As to flies, most people have their own ideas ; but 
it may be well to say that out of the countless num- 
ber of flies, some of them unlike an^^hing under the 
sun, the red, black, brown and gray hackles, tied 
both as a plain hackle and palmer fashion ; coach- 
man, yellow professor, light and dark fox, black 
gnat, green drake, March bro^\Ti, fin fly, white miller, 
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, grizzly king, and 
queen of the water, constitute a good supply if one 
takes a half dozen of each. Even this is considered 
by some too many. I think I am safe in saying that 
the largest trout are caught at dusk or during star- 
light or moonlight nights ; if I am too broad in 
making this assertion I will modify it by sa}dng large 
trout may be caught at this time by using a white 
miller, or a fly in which white predominates ; and, 
too, you must use a larger hook than the one you used 
during the day. If you have noticed a large trout in 
the stream during the day, and been unable to catch 
him, try him at night, if it is bright, and you may be 
reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored fly. 
Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow by go- 
ing above his resting place and slightly roiling the 
stream, and as the muddy water passes over, let your 
fly float as naturally as possible with it, and the 
chances are in favor of your getting the trout. He 
probably knows that roUy water means a freshet, and 



THE AUIRONDACKS 231 

a freshet biings with it insects upon wnich he feeds. 
The latter portion of May, the months of June and 
July are considered the best portions of the open sea- 
son for fishing in the Adirondacks, and morning and 
evening the best portion of the day, as the trout are 
then seeking their natural food ; but the ways of the 
trout are often past finding out, for there are times 
when they will bite at nothing. 

I might give directions for fly casting, but at best 
written directions are very unsatisfactory, and the 
novice will gain more of real benefit from a few les- 
sons given by a fly fisherman than from all the in- 
structions ever written. 

The coachman for trout is as standard as the Jock 
Scott or silver doctor for salmon, and for many years 
stood first in my estimation as a trout fly. A half 
dozen or more years ago Mr, R. B. Marston, editor o"^ 
the Fishing Gazette, London, sent me some samples 
of the Marston' s Fancy, a fly that was named for 
him, and I found it to be more killing than the coach- 
man in small streams where the trout are highly edu- 
cated in entomology, and my fly books are now never 
without a supply of these flies. As to tackle get a 
split bamboo, hornbeam, or ash and lance wood rod 
of three joints, about eleven feet long, weighing 
eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip or tips, 
one a little shorter than the others, will answer for 
both bait and fly, unless you propose to " yank " your 
fish, in which case you need heavier timber ; a click 
reel to hold forty yards of braided silk, tapered line, 
waterproof ; a half-dozen leaders or casting lines nine 
feet long, of best round silkworm gut ; a supply of 
sneiied hooks tied upon O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey 
hooks, with a landing net of coarse mesh, will consti- 
tute an outfit for brook trout in the Adirondacks. It 
is poor economy to buy poor tackle • if you get any get 
the best, even if you get less. 



THE ADIROINUACKS. 

While I advise O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey snelled 
hooks for bait fishing, I believe the best hook on which 
to dress a fly is the Pennell-Limerick or Pennell- 
Sneck, hook made by W. Bartleet & Sons, the former 
for large flies and the latter for small ones. 

Bait fishing is not to be sneered at. But if yot: 
must use bait, take your angle or earth worm after it 
is scoured in damp moss, and pass your hook through 
the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering 
up a loop of the body and pass through again and again 
until you have the shank, as well as the beard of the 
hook, well covered and half an inch of " worm " over. 
Should your worm-loop, or head, or tail be taken off 
and the fish not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless 
you have some decided objection fish down stremn. If 
you use live bait (minnows), pass your hook through 
its back under the dorsal fin, but not so low as to- 
break the back bone ; should you use a portion of a 
tninnow, cut off the tail just at the dorsal fin ; put 
your hook in at the tail, and along the back bone, 
until the point of the hook nearh' reaches the place 
cut ; your bait will then be curved to correspond with 
the bend of the hook, and will whirl nicely when 
drawn against the current. 

The Lake trout, although it will take a ' fly at 
times, is usually caught by trolling'. The 77iodu^ 
operandi is as follows : With a springy trolling rod, a 
balance mukiplying reel to hold loo yards of braided 
silk, or linen line No. 4, leaders 6 feet long of single 
gut, and a minnow gang, which is made by tying 6, 9 
or 12 hooks in groups of three to a length of twisted 
gut with a single lip hook about one and a half inches 
above the upper group of hooks, a gaff hook, and a 
pail of minnows completing the outfit. Lake trout fish- 
ing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the lakes, for 
then the fish are at the surface of the water and it is 
really the only time that they afford sport in the 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 223 

catching, as it cannot be considered sport to troll 
with a heavy sinker at the bottom in 100 or more 
feet of water, so put your rod together, put on 
your reel, pass your line through the standing 
guides of your rod, attach your leader andi min- 
now gang, put the lip hook through both lips of 
the live bait, bend the bait and put one of the 
group hooks through the back of the bait behind 
the back fin in such a manner as to maiie it re- 
volve slowly through the v/ate. Of late years I 
have used the Archer Spinner in place of the 
gang, for when the minnow is impaled on the 
spindle of the spinner it must v\^hirl, and the 
wings of the spinner hold the minnow fast and 
thus it is a bait saver, an important matter in 
spring trolling when bait fish is scarce. 

Buoy fishing for lake trout is practical by an- 
choring a block of v/ood, as a bouy in some deep 
portion of the lake. Morning and evening, for 
two or three days, bait your bouy by throvv^ing 
overboard bits of fish but up about the size of a 
butternut; this will generally attract the fish and 
keep them around the buoy. When you think the 
buoy sufficiently baited, put on your hook a piece 
of fish like that you have used, or a live minnow, 
and drop it over, and keep your bait moving up 
and down by a slight motion of your hand, until 
the sun gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard, 
or you make up your mind that there are better 
ways of fishing. Buoy fisihing is not practiced 
now nearly as much as in former years, but trout 
are yet caught in this manner. 



224-236 GAME LAWS. 

LICENSE TO HUNT, issued to resident of state 
for $1.00 and 10 cents; to non residents and unnat- 
uralized person, $20.00 and 50 cents. Owners of 
property are permitted to hunt in the open sea- 
son on their own land without a license. 

Game. — You may kill Ruffled Grouse from Oct. 
1 to Nov. 30, both inclusive. 

Woodcock may be killed Oct. to Nov. 30. 

Wildfowl, Geese, Ducks, etc, Sept 16 to Dec. 31. 

Wilson's or English Snipe, Sept. 16 to Dec. 31. 

Squirrels, black and gray, Oct. 1 to Nov. 30. 

Deer. You may kill deer (having horns not less 
than 3 inches long) with a gun fired at arm's 
length without rest, between sunrise and sunset 
from Oct. 1 to Nov. 15, both inclusive, but no 
person shall kill or take alive more than two deer in 
one season. Hounding of deer and " jacking " is for- 
bidden. No fawn shall be killed at any time. Not 
more than one deer shall be transported at one time, 
and then only when accompanied by owner. The 
violation of any of these provisions is a misdemeanor, 
with an additional penalty of $100 for each violation. 

Beaver shall not be caught or killed at any time. 

Black Bear may be killed at sight in Essex and 
Lewis Counties. In other Adirondack counties, Octo- 
ber 1st to July 1st. 

Elk, Moose or Caribou shall not be killed. 

FISH — ^Open season: All Trout, May 1 to 
Aug. 30. Lake Trout and Land-locked Salmoon, 
April 16 to Sept. 30. Legal length of all trout, 
other than lake trout, six inches. 

Black Bass, June 16 to Dec. 31, except in Lake 
George and Schroon Lake, Aug. 1 to Dec. 16. 
Legal length of black bass, ten inches. Not more 
than 24 shall be caught in one day. 



287 



HOTELS AND PUBLIC CAMPS. 

Resorts arranged alphabetically, giving principal 
hotels and public camps, with particulars as fur- 
nislied (if not given elsewhere) in the following 
order: (1st) Name of house. (2dj Capacity. 
(3d) Price of board by the day and week. (4th) 
Miscellaneous information, with name of proprie- 
tor or manager and their postofRce address. Land- 
lords are requested to supply the above with other 
particulars asked for annually, which will be given 
here v/ithout charge. 

(For list of hotels, alphabetically arranged, see 
index.) 

ALBANY. 
THE TEN EYCK. F. W. Rockwell. See page 
275. 

AIDEN LAIR. 
AIDEN LAIR LODGE. F. M. Cronin. See 171-D- 

AUGUR LAKE. 
THE INTERLAKEN. C. B. White. Pages 132- 
265. 

AU SABLE CHASM. 
HOTEL AU SABLE CHASM. Page 40. 
BEAVER LAKE. / 

FENTON HOUSE. C. Fenton Parker.^ 



23S HOTELS. 

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE. 
BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE. M. Tyler Merwin. 
Pages 211-272. 

CSPREY HOUSE. Charles E. VanDenbergh. $3 
day; $12-$18 week. 

LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 30. $2 d.; $8 to $12 w. 
Open the year round. 

BLUFF POINT. 
HOTEL CHAMPLIN. M. M. Kelly, Manager. 
55-261. 

CASCADE LAKE 
CASCADE LAKE HOUSE. J. Henry Otis, 
manager. Pages 122-162. 

CEDAR RIVER. 
CEDAR RIVER HOUSE. 30. F. E. Wood. 
Pages 183-245. 

CRANBERRY LAKE. 
Cranberry Lake Inn. 60. Emporium Lumber 
Co. Apply. 

The White Birch. 40. Edwin Aldrich. Apply. 
The Wndsor. 50. M. J. Brainard. Apply. 
Columbian Park Hotel. 75. Neil Shaw. Apply. 
Bear Mountain Camp. 50. J. M. Balderson. 
(P. O. Wanakena.) Apply. 

Hotel Wanakena. 125. W. A. Bean. P. O. 
Wanakena.) Apply. 

CHATEAUGAY LAKE. 

MORRISON'S. Upper Chateauguay Lake. 150. 
$2 day, $12 to $20 week. Special early and late 
rates. Open May 15 to October 1. A. & T. A, Mor- 
rison, Proprietors. P. O., Ralph. 

BANNER HOUSE. 75. $2.50 d.; $10-$15 w. 
Open all the year. 7 1-2 miles to Chateauguay sta- 
tion. 10 m. to Lyon Mountain. Apply for special 
conveyance. Send for booklet containing full in- 
formation. J. S. Kirby, P. O., Bannerhouse. 



HOTELS. 23» 

CHAZY LAKE. 

LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 65. G. S. Badger. P.O. 
Chazy Lake. $8-$12. $2.00 day. April to Novem- 
ber. 5 minutes walk from station. 
ELIZABETHTOWN. 

Maplewood Inn. 7.5. Roberts Brothers. Page 
135. 

The Windsor. O. Kellogg & Son. 250. Page 
137. 

Deer's Head Inn. 100. B. F. Stetson. Address 
FULTON CHAIN. 
^Hotels as approached from the west.) 

Adirondack. At Old Forge. 30. $8-$12. Miss 
Ella Hughes. 

Forge House. A. M. Briggs. proprietor. 187. 

BALD MOUNTAIN HOUSE. C. M. Barrett 
oee 189-273. 

EAGLE BAY HOTEL. 150. E. A. Preston. 

Mohawk and Cottages. 70. $2.50 to $2.00 day, 
$10-$18 week. June to October. Mrs. H. H. Long- 
staff. $2 to $3 day; $14-$21 week. 

CEDAR ISLAND CAMP. 100. May to October. 
1-2 mile from Eagle Bay Station. A. G. Delmarsh, 
xMgr. P. O. Old Forge, X. Y. 

ROCKY POINT INN. A. G. Delmarsh. $4 day; 
15-$28 week. 

THE WOOD. 100. P. C. Wood. Pages 195-247. 

THE ARROWHEAD. 125. C. A. O'Hara. $3 
and $4 per day. $14 up per week. 
KEENE VALLEY. 

ST. HUBERT'S INN. The Au Sable Club. Au- 
gustus J. Coughlin, Mgr. See page 141. 

Keene Valley Inn. S. R. Clark. Apply for 
terms. 

THE OWLS HEAD. 50. W. B. Washburn. 
$2.00 to $3.00 day. $8-$12 week. Special to 
families and parties on application. Open the 
year around. 



240 HOTELS. 

KEESEVILLE. 
COMMERCIAL HOTEL. J. McGuire, proprie- 
tor. Rates, $2.50 per day. 

LAKE BONAPARTE. 
THE NEW HERMITAGE. 150. David Scan- 
Ion. See page 217-257. 

LUZERNE. 
Rockwell's Hotel. 100. D. P. Strang. Apply. 
WAYSIDE INN AND COTTAGES. Ernest 
Serfling. 100. See pages 161-254. 
LAKE GEORGE. 
FORT WM. HENRY HOTEL. M. M. -Kelly, 
p. 266. 

LAKE PLACID. 
THE NATIONAL (at Station). Henry Allen. 
See page 105-265. 

GRAND VIEW HOUSE. M. B. Marshall. See 
pages 106-B— 273. 

NORTH WOODS INN. 75 guests. T. A. Lealiy. 
Page 106-B— 273. 
STEVENS HOUSE. Stevens Hotel Co. Apply. 
LAKE PLACID INN. F. W. Swift. See pages 
107-234. 

UNDERCLIFF. See 111. 

LONG LAKE. 
DEERLAND LODGE. A. D. Brown & Co. 
179-A-263. 
THE SAGAMORE. .James H. Reardon. Apply. 
ADIRONDACK HOUSE. D. B. Moynehan. Page 
179-A. 

MINERVA. 
MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE. John Anderson, Jr. 
See pages 171-C— 262. 



HOTELS. 241 

NEWCOMB. 

LAKE HARRIS HOUSE 50. John Anderson. 
See pages 173-274. 

WAYSIDE INN. John Anderson. Pages 173- 
274. 

NORTH CREEK. 

ADIRONDACK HOUSE. 100. $2 day. Pages 
171-C-255. 

NORTH RIVER. 

ORDWAY HOTEL. 50. W. H. Lynch. See 
page 182. 

PLATTSBURG. 

FOUQUET HOUSE. 100. R. J. Clark. See 
pages 57-245. 

CUMBERLAND HOUSE. R. J. Clark. See 
page 57. 

THE WITHERILL. 100. W. W. Howell. Apply. 
PAUL SMITH'S. 

Paul Smith's 500. Paul Smith's Hotel Co. 
$4 per day; $21 and upwards week. June 
15th to October 1st. Railroad direct to hotel. 
Through Pullmans, via New York Central lines 
from Grand Central Station, New York daily. 
PORT KENT. 

TREMBLEAU HALL. Farrell & Adgate. 125. 
$3-$4 day, $15-$21 week. Free carriage to 
trains and boats. See pages 39-244. 
RAQUETTE LAKE. 

RAQUETTE LAKE HOTEL. 50. G. C. Rear- 
don, Mgr. Pages 199-256. 

THE ANTLERS. C. H. Bennett. Apply. 

BRIGHTSIDE COTTAGES. J. O. A. Bryere 
See 201-264. 

SUNSET CAMP. R. Bennet. See pages 201- 
272. 



242 HOTELS. 

SARANAC LAKE. 
^ THE BERKELEY. A. B. Robinson. Pages 
75, 263. 

THE NEW ST. REGIS. J. C. Morgan. $2.50 up. 
Page 75. 
^ RIVERSIDE INN. 100.. .Pine & Corbett. $2.50 
to $4 day, $15 to $28 week. Open all the year. 
See page 77. 
^ THE ALGONQUIN. John Harding. Apply. 
SARANAC LAKE (Upper). 
SARANAC INN. Harrington Mills, Mgr. See 
■^ pages 83-268. 

SPECTACLE LAKES. 
y HIAWATHA LODGE. 100. W. L. Beckman. 
(P. O. Corey's). See pages 91-266. 
SCHROON LAKE. 
^ WATCH ROCK. J. D. Benham. 200. $2-$3 

day; $10-$20 week. 
X GROVE POINT HOUSE. 225. W. A. MacKenzie. 
ONDAWA. 100. F. C. Bailey. $3-$4 d.; $14 
•^and $21 w. Open all the year. See 163-256. 
LELAND HOUSE. For terms apply. 

TUPPER LAKE. 
THE PRINCE ALBERT. $3.00 per day; $12- 
$15 per week. Carriage to station, for 1 person, 
$1.50; fortwo or more, $1 each. R. N. Page, 
Proprietor. P. O., Moody. 

WESTPORT. 
WESTPORT INN. H. P. Smith, Mgr. See 33- 
258. 

GLEN WOOD INN. John L. Sherman. $2 day, 
/ $10-$ 14 week. Free car to station. Open all the 
year. See pages 35-250, 



243 

Guide Books and Maps 

Puplished by S. R. STODDARD 
Glens Falls, N. Y. 

THE ADIRONDACKS ILLUSTRATED, 16 mo., 
issued annually; 288 pages. Paper 25 cents. 
Gives routes, railroad, steamboat and stage fares: 
hotel rates, etc. 

LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE OH AMPLAIN,. 
historical and descriptive. 10 mo.. 224 pages. 
Paper 25 cents. Contains sectional maps of the 
two lakes and cuts of mountains, islands, etc.. as 
seen from the passins: steamer. 

MAP OF THE ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS. 
Pocket edition on map-bound paper Cloth cover, 
with complete index of places, lakes, mountains 
and rivers, $1.00. Paper (without the index), 50^ 
cents. 

"It is the most complete map of the Adirondack region 
pvpr iiubli'^h^d "'—Forest and stream. 

MAP OF LAKE GEORGE. Scale 1 mile to an 
inch. Approved and adopted by the N. Y. State 
Engineer and Surveyor in 1880. Pocket edition, 
cloth cover. 50 cents. Paper. 25 cents. 

MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Scale 21/2 miles 
to an inch, with smaller maps of the Richelieu 
River, and route and distances to important 
points Pocket edition, cloth cover. 50 cents. 
Paper 25 cents. 

CHART OF LAKE GEORGE. Hydrographic 
Survey of 1906-7-8. shows measurements up to ff 
feet on shaded surface, with approximate deeper 
soundings throughout the entire lake. Scale, J 
inches to the mile. Price. $5.00. 

Sent on receipt of price with 5 cents added ta 
pay postage. 



244 




TREMBLEAU HALL 

/ 



\ 



Farrell & Adgate, Proprietors 
Port Kent, Essex Co., N. Y. 



Accommodates 125. $3.00 and upwards per day, 

$15.75 to $21 per week, special rates for 

early spring and fall. 

The House is beautifully situated on a bluff 
overlooking Lake Champlain. 

Hot and cold water baths on each floor, 

3-4 mile from station; 1-2 mile from steamboat 

landing; bus meets all trains and boats. 

long distance telephone; livery attached. 

Cottages to rent and for sale. 

A short distance from Au Sable Chasm. 



245 



AUTOMOBILE 



TRIPS 



A road map covering the Champlain 
Valley and the Adirondacks, from Al- 
bany to the Dominion Line on a 
scale of 4 miles to the inch, with an 
extension of the way along the Hudson 
River to Nev; York City, distinguish- 
ing important roads, v/ith distances and 
conditions for the current year. Illus- 
trated with views of scenery and hotels, 
and giving rates for board, etc. Printed 
in two colors. By mail, 25 cents. On 
folding map paper in paper covers, 50 
cents. 

Address 



\ 



S. R. 



STODDARD, Publisher, 

Glens Falls, N. Y. 



/ 



CEDAR RIVER HOUSE 




F. E. Wood, 

Proprietor. 
20 miles from 

North Creek 

Rates, $2.00-and 

$2.50 per day, 

58-$12 per w^eek 

Hunting and 

Fishing Resort 

P. O., 

Indian Lake, 

N. Y. 




246 

THE 

DELAWARE 



and HUDSON 

THE LEADING TOUR'iST LINE OF AMERICA 

THE SHORTEST AND MOST PICTURESQUE 
ROUTE BETWEEN 

New York and Montreal 

New standard-gauge, through-car line to Lake 
Placid, Saranac Lake and intermediate Adiron- 
dack mountain points. Cafe or dining-cars on day 
trains. Through parlor and sleeping cars. 

THE ONLY DIRECT LINE TO 

Saratoga Springs, Lake George, Lake Champlain, 
Hotel Champlain, Adirondack Mountains, Au 
Sable Chasm, Sharon Springs and Cooperstown. 

SUMMER EXCURSION TICKETS 

on sale AT ALL TOURIST AGENCIES and ticket 
offices. New York City Office, 1354 Broadway. 

Send 6 cents postage for "A Summer Paradise," 
300-page illustrated guide with hotel directory, etc. 

A. A. HEARD, 
GenM PassV Agt. 

Albany, N. Y. 



247 

"THE WOOD" 

(Formerly Hess Camp.) 

HEAD OF FOURTH LAKE. 

Capacity 100. 

IVEW HOUSE NEW FURNISHINGS 

NEW PROPRIETOR. 
Rates, $3.00 per day. $12 up per week. 

PERFECT SANITARY CONDITIONS. 
Long Distance Telephone in house. PostofRce 
in connected building. 

Guides, Boats and Camping Outfits. 

End of Steamboat trip on Fourth Lake^ 

P. C. WOOD, PROPRIETOR. V^ 

(Formerly of the Forge House.) 

Postoffice address, INLET, N. Y. 



THE GLENWOOD INN 

On Lake Champlain, 

WESTPORT. N. Y. / 

JOHN L. SHERMAN. Proprietor / 

Accommodates 50. Terms, $2 per day and up. 
Weekly rates on application. Large parlors, open 
fireplaces and steam heat, hot and cold water, 
baths and toilet on each floor. Auto garage and 
livery. Good fishing and hunting. Open year 
round. Three-quarters mile from D. & H. R. R. 
'Bus meeting all trains. Branch money order of- 
fice of the National Express Co. Western Union 
Telegraph Co. and long distance telephone in the 
house. Westport Spring Water used exclusively. 



248 



Touqmt douse 

PLATTSBURG, NEW YORK 

\/ R. J. Clark, Proprietor. 
Opposite railroad station. 

Only Hotel in the city overlooking Lake Cham- 
plain. Rates, $3 per day; with bath, $4.00. Au- 
tomobilists welcome and no extra charge. Rates 
by the week on application; special rates for 
families. 

HOUSE REMODELED THROUGHOUT. 
Twenty rooms with bath. 
Open May 15 to October 1. 



the 
Hew Cumbarland 

PLATTSBURG, N. Y. 

75 rooms. Sample rooms. Steam heat. Eleva- 
tor. Electric lights. All modern improvements. 
Free carriage to boats and trains. 

/ R. J. CLARK, Proprietor. 



251 

Lake Champlain 

and Lake George 

"THE HISTORIC GATEWA'^" 

The attractive tourist route to or from the Ad- 
irondack, White and Green Mountain resorts, Sar- 
atoga Springs, Montreal and Canada. 

D. & H. morning train from Saratoga Springs, 
Albany and points south connect at Lake George 
station with steamer through Lake George and 
Lake Champlain, due at Plattsburg 7:00 p. m. and 
connecting with train for Montrael. 

The lake steamers are new, large vessels built 
for comfortable pleasure travel, with latest and 
finest equipment. 

DELICIOUS MEAl'iS *IN MAIN DECK DINING 
ROOM. 

The daylight trip over these beautiful, historic 
lakes is long to be remerrbered. 

Tickets on sale at all tourists agencies and 
ticket offices throughout the country. 

Send 2 cents postage for colored map folder 
with time table. New York office 1354 Broadway |/yA 

A. A. Heard, D. A. Loomis 

Gen. Pass. Agent. Gen. Manager. 

Champlain Transportation Co. 

Lake George Steamboat Co. 



•f 



L'54 

Wayside Inn and Cottages 

AT THE GATEWAY OF THE ADIRONDACKS. 

22 Miles from Saratoga. 
On Beautiful Lake Luzerne, Warren County, N. Y. 
Attractions include Casino for dancing and the- 
atricals; ochestra; golf grounds; tennis courts; 
bath houses; livery, garage and stables on 
grounds. The Inn has telegraph and telephone 
connections; steam heat, modern bath rooms, 
public and private, and is about 7 hours from New- 
York without change. Terms, $17.50 per week, 
upward. Write fcf booklet with map. 

E. SERFLING, Proprietor. 



7 



J 



LAKE PLACID INN 

F. W. SWIFT, Owner and Proprietor. 

Superbly located betw^een and overlooking both 

Lake Placid and Mirror Lake. 

Modern in appointments. 

1 TO 4 ROOMS EN SUITE WITH PRIVATE 
BATH. 

Open fire-places in all public rooms. Broad ve- 
randas. Golf, Tennis, Baseball, Billiards, Pool, 
Boating, Fishing, Dancing. 

ORCHESTRA IN ATTENDANCE. 
Accommodations for 150 guests. 
Pulmonary cases positively not taken. 
Rates, $21.00 and upwards, $4 per day and up- 
wards. 

Special rates for June and for long stay. 
Address F. W. SWIFT, Lake Placid, N. Y. 



255 

ADIRONDACK HOUSE 

NORTH CREEK, N. Y. 

FREE BUS TO ALL TRAINS 

Capacity for one hundred guests. 

STEAM HEATED THROUGHOUT. 

FIRST CLASS TABLE 
RATES $2.00 PER DAY AND UPWARDS. 

LIVERY IN CONNECTION. 

Long Distance Telephone. 

MOYNEHAN & ANDERSO,N, Proprietors. 



riJM 



256 




ONDAWA HOUSE 

Scliroon Lake, Essex Co., X. Y. 

F. C. Bailey, Proprietor. \/ 

Accommodates 100. 

TERMS: $12 to $17.50 per week. 

Transients, $2.00 per day. 

Special Terms for Families. 



Raquette Lake Hotel 

RAQUETTE LAKE, N. Y. / 

P. Moynehan, Owner. G. C. Reardon, Mgr. 

ON THE SHORES OF RAQUETTE LAKE. 

End of the Railroad. 
Starting Point for Raquette Lake and Blue Moun- 
tain Steamers. 

FIRST-CLASS TABLE AND FURNISHINGS. 

Guides, Boats, Hunting and Fishing Outfits. 
See page 199. 

Rates, $2.50 up. Special by week. 

Address, G. 0. Reardon, Manager. 

Raquette Lake, N. Y. 



257 




\ 



ADIRONDACK INN 
. W:alis, N. Y. 

on the 
BEAUTIFUL SACANDAGA RIVER 

Modern Accommodations 

GAME AND FISH DINNERS 

In Season. 

RATES: $2.50 up. 




The Westport Inn 

WESTPORT, on Lake Cha/nplain, N. Y 



Open June 15, Close Oct. 1. 



. P. SMITH, Mgr. 



A thoroughly well appointed house, wi-ih good 
table, mountain spring water and excellent drain- 
age, wide piazzas, with a superb view of the Lake 
and Mountains. 

Capacity 150. Rates, $4 per day; $17.5f to $35 
per week. 

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake 
Champlain Transportation Company's wharf, two 
minutes from the Library and Postoffice and ten 
minutes drive from the Depot of the D. & H. 

Golf Club House with Billiard and Pool Table* 
and Shower Baths. 

Champlain steamers land at foot of grounds four 
times daily. Convenient excursions on lake. 



259 



GRAND VIEW HOUSE 




A SELECT FAMILY RESORT 
400 Acres of Forest Stream . One of the most 
magnificent Mountain and Lake Views in the 
World. 
Golf, Boating, Bathing, Tennis, Fishing, Dancing. 
ADIRONDACK ATTRACTIONS. 
No Mosquitoes — No Hay Fever 
Always Cool 
Private Baths Steam Heat Elevator 
OUR OWN VEGETABLE GARDENS 
Superior Table Spring Water 
Grand Ball Room Symphony Orchestra 

Specail Inducements to Young Men in Bachelors' 
Hall 
Season June to October 
THE LAKE PLACID & MIRROR LAKE 

/HOTEL CO., Proprietors 
* * * / * * * * * 

M. B. Marshall ior Hotel Hargrave, New York, 
late Manager of Saranac Inn, is President and 
Supervising Manager of the Grand View, 



260 




HIAWATHA LODGE 
AND COTTAGES 



J 



Spectacle Lakes 

In the Adirbndacks 

P. O. Corey's, N. Y. 

W. L. BECKMAN, Proprietor 

Guests are Entertained in Winter and Summer 
A Modern Hotel with Surrounding Bungalows 

Hunting, FisFiing, Golf. 

See page 91. 



261 




EAST FRONT 

HOTEL CHAMPLAIN 

AND COTTAGES 

REBUILT 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, New York. 

Modern Absolutely Fireproof. 

Accommodations for 400. 

18 Hole Golf Course. 9 Hole Court Course. 

On the AdirondgLgfeaarail and Iroquois Trail. 

All Out Door Sports and Amusements. 

MORTIMER M. KELLY, Manager. 




WEST FRONT 



262 




CASCADE LAKE HCUSE. Transi- 
ent, $4.00: $15 to $21 by the week. 
The wildest pass in the Adirondacks 
reached by Automobile. New road^ 
bed perfect. Pamphlei on applies^ 
tion. Address, J. Henry Otis, Msm- 
ager. Cascade. X. Y. >/ 



MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE 



MiNERVA, ESSEX CO.. /d. Y 
lOHN ANDERSON, JR.,s/ropri< 



14C3 FEET ELEVATION. 

Y. 

JOHN ANDERSON, J R.,sproprietor. 

LIVERY IN CONNECTION WITH HOUSE. 

GARAGE AND GASOLENE. 

First-class Kcrses and '' arriages. Careful and 
Attenti' e Drivers. 

Eight miles from D. & H. Railroad Station at 
North Cieelv, N. Y. 

Bath and Toilet in house. 

Rates, $2 to $3.50 per day. Special by week. 



203 

DEERLAND LODGE 

DEERLAND LODGE is located among tall pines 
on the eastern shore of the lake near its head 
seven miles from Raquette Lake and eight miles 
from Blue Mountain Lake. Capacity of house and 
15 cottages. 150 guests. 
COTTAGES HAVE BATHS AND OPEN FIRES. 

Nine-hole Golf Course on hotel grounds. 
This, with Tennis. Boating, Hunting and Fishing 
are the standard amusements. 
P. O. and Telephone in House. Daily Mails. 
The best way to reach Deerland is via Raquette 
Lake Steamer to Forked Lake carry, thence by 
private conveyance. See page 179. 
Rates $3 and $4 per day. $17.50 up p/r week. 

A. D. BROWN & CO., / 
P. O. Deerland, Hamilton Co., n; Y. 



THE BERKELEY 

saranac lake / 

A. B. ROBINSON, Proprietor. J 

THOROUGHLY MODERN, HANDSOMELY 
APPOINTED, STEAM HEAT. OPEN ALL THE 
YEAR. 

CENTRALLY LOCATED, BROAD PIAZZAS 
AND SPACIOUS SLEEPING ROOMS. CAPAC- 
ITY OF 75. TABLE UNSURPASSED. 

Table supplied with the best milk, cream, 
butter and vegetables fresh daily. Long distance 
telephone and telegraph office in house. Livery 
attached. Guides and campers' supplies fur- 
nished. 

Special Accommodations Reserved for Automobile 

Parties. 

GARAGE AND AUTOMOBILE SUPPLIES. 



264 



M 






Brightside-on-Raquette 

RAQ CTTE LAKE, N. Y 

Main Bu Iding and Cottages will 
Pr.>vide for Seventy-five Guests 

Open camps with bal?am beds for those who may 
wish to sleep in the open air. Public open camps 
and camp fire at Brightside nightly. 

Modern improvements. Cottages lighted by gas. 
A perfect system of sanitary plumbing throughout. 
Cottages to rent with board only. Steamer stops 
four times daily. Two mails daily. Two miles 
from R. R. station. On the shore of the lake at the 
foot of the Crags. 

Amusements are boating, canoeing, bathing, 
tennis, music. 

Fishing, hunting and camping outfits and guides 
and boats furrisred. 

RATES: $3 per day; $15 to $20 per week. Spe- 
cial for May, Jure and October. Open May to No- 
vember. Send for illustrated circular. 

THERE IS NO BAR AT BRIGHTSIDE. 

People suffering from pulmonary troubles not 
taken. Hebrews need not apply. i 

Address J. O. A. BRYERE, Raquexte liake, N. Y. 



Interlaken House 

AUGUR LAKE 

Splendid mountan scenery. Extensive pine groves 

Black Bass, Pickerel and Trout Fishing. 

Boating, Bowling, Lawn Tennis and Driving. 

No malaria, hay fever, black flies nor mosquitoes. 

House open June 1st to October 15th. 

Rates for board, $2.50 per day; $10 to $15 per week 

Special rates for June and September. 

C. B. WHITE, Keeseville. \/ 

The National Hotel 

LAKE PLACID, N. Y. 




Every Room Provided with Hot and Cold 

Water, with Bath Between Every 

Two Rooms. 

A Good Livery is connected with the hotel and 

a first-class Garage for the care of Automobiles. 

For information and rates apply to 
HENRY ALLEN, Proprietor, Lake Placid, N. Y. 

V 



266 




SUMMER 

FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL 

(REBUILT) 

at 

LAKE GEORGE, N. Y. 

OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 

Absolutely Fireproof. Modem. 

Conducted on the European Plan Exclusively. 

New Concrete Garage. 
On the Adirondack Trail and Iroquois Trail. 
Reached by the D. & H. in through 
Pullman car*, direct to hotel. 

MORTIMER M. KELLY, Manager. 




WINTER 




XOUTH tUJ^EIv GARAGE, uear Adi- 
rouduek Hotel.. Headquarters at Tele- 
phone Central Office. Claude A. Pereau, 
Proprietor. Julius S. Brown, Heact 
Mechanic. Equipped with lathe and 
drill press of latest type and all the 
tools found in a first-class Garage.. 
Automobile supplies always on hand. 
First-class Auto livery attached. "Max- 
well" and "Cadilac" Agency. 




LAKE CLEAR INN 
on Lake Clear, Adirondacks, on the 
famous St. Germain carry. $2.50 per 
day; $12-$18 week. Golf. Hunting. 
Fishing. Reservations for Automo- 
bilists. C. H. Wardner, late proprie- 
tor at Rustic Lodge, proprietor. Post- 
office address, Lake Clear, X. Y. See 
page 71. 



J 



26{ 




SARANAC INN 

UPPER SARANAC LAKE 
Post Office Address, UPPER SARANAC, Franklin 

County, N. Y. 
The Country of Fish and Game and Healthful 

Recreation. 
A Select Summer Home. Golf, Tennis and 

other Amusements. 
Terms at the Inn, $4 per day and up; $19.25 to 
$70 per week. Capacity 250. 
Open May to NAyember. 
Boats, Guides, Fishing 35ackle, Supplies and 
Camp Outfits furnished at the house. Corre- 
spondence solicited. Circulars and Maps sent on 
application. Harrington Millsi6f Hotel Grafton, 
Washington, D. C, Manager. 

Upper Saranac Lake Steamers. 

"SARANAC" and "LOON" 

runs to all points or\ the I al>e connecting with trairs on the 
A. & St. Li. R. R. Through tickets ovr>r ihi-; lin- ohta^nnhle 
from all points. Fare through the lake 75>.-. Round irip $1.00. 

xiivie: card. 

Leave Sarnnac Inn.. 7.45 a.m. Leave Sarannc Inn 2.30p.m- 
Wawbeek ....9.00 " " Wawbeek.. . .3.45 " 

Rustic Lodge. 9. 15 " " Rustic Lodge.4 00 " 

" Sa'-anac Club 9.30 " " Saranac Club. 4. 15 " 

Returning, arrive at Returning, a- rive at 



Glens Falls Automobile Co. 

Top of Glen Street Hill 




Most modern r.nd up-to-date Garage in Northern 
New York. Fully equipped in every way to sup- 
ply the wants of the tourist as well as the general 
public. 

STORAGE FOR CARS. CARS FOR RENT. 

Repair room not excelled in tnis section of the 
country. 

Accommodations for the Tourist unexcelled in 
any Garage in Northern New York. 

Our 1912 products are the world's famous 
Thomas Flyer, Champion Hill Climber, The Knox. 
The most noted medium priced car, the E. M. F., 
and the best cpt for the price, the Fore-door Fl:.n- 
ders at $800. 

Do not miss this ideal home for your Auto 
while touring this section of the country. 

74-76 Gler. Street, 
Glens Falls, ,N. Y. 

MILO J. GRAY, President. V / 

HOWARD C. PEARSALL, Vice President. 
CHARLES H. FENNELL, Secretary. 



/ 



272 

THE ADIRONDACK 

LONG LAKE, N. Y. 
D. B. MOYNEHAN, Proprietor. 

Rates — $2.50 up per day, $12 up per week. 
For special rates address the proprietor. 

Open Plumbing, Acetylene Gas, Hot and 
Cold Water, Rooms with Bath, 
Long Distance Telephone. 

THE BEST DEER HUNTING GROUNDS IN 

NEW YORK STATE WITHIN AN 

HOUR OF THE HOTEL. 

GUIDES AND BOATS FURNISHED. 
For Booklet and particulars address 

D. B. MOYNEHAN, Long Lake, N. Y.* 
See page 176 for picture of hotel. 

SUN SET CAMP 

RAQUETTE LAKE, N. Y. 

The Camp has the reputation of setting as good 
a table as can be found in the Adirondacks for 
the money. 

The table is supplied with plenty of fresh milk 
and cream and vegetables from the Camp's gar- 
den. Trout and venison in season. 

Sunset Camp Launch meets all trains and takes 
guests and their baggage to and from Camp and 
brings and delivers mail twice daily. Pulmonary 
invalids not taken. 

Rates $2.50 per day up. $12.50 per week up. 
Write for booklet and references. 



Address, R. BENNETT, Raquette Lake, 



N. Y.V 



273 



Bald Mountain House 

HEAD OF THIRD LAKE, FULTON CHAIN. 
C. M. BARRETT, Prop. 

Capacity 130 Guests. 
Rates $2.50 to $4 per day; $15 to $28 per week. 
Electric bells, lighted with gas, open fire-places, 
hard-wood stoves, beautiful grounds. Forest camps 
and lodges connected with the hotel. Bowling 
Alleys. New Steam Laundry. Write for particy 
ulars. Booklet free. Address, / 

C. M. BARRETT, Old Forge, N. Y. %/ 

NORTHWOODS INN 

LAKE PLACID ,N. Y. 

Centrally Located on the West Shore of Mir- 
ror Lake. 

Two Thousand Feet Above Sea Level. 
Appointments Frst-Class, Open Fireplaces, 
Steam and Furnace Heat. 

Baths, Electric Lights, Sanitary Plumb- 
ing. Long Distance Telephone. 
Rates— $2.50-$3, $12.50-$17.50 week. Address/ 
T. A. LEAHY, Prop., Lake Placid, 



Address/ 
N. Y. J 



274 

WAYSIDE INN nfs^.^'ioT.^:.. 

Unsurpassed as a Hunting and Fishing Centre. 
Superb Troat Fishing. The best of Deer Hunting. 
Guides and all banting and fishing accessories 

Rates: $2 to $3.50 per day; special by the vv^eek 
cr season. Daily mails. Telephone in the house. 
JOH,N ANDERSON, Jr., Newcomb. 



r 




LAKE HARRIS 
HOUSE 



A MODERN, WELL EQUIPPED SUMMER 

HOTEL. 

SIX THOUSAND ACRES OF LAKES AND 

FORESTS. 

WITH FREE HUNTING AND FISHING PRIV- 

ILEGES TO GUESTS. 

Accommodates 65. Rates $2 to $5 per d^y. 

Specif: ffJi- .June and September. 

Lighted by Gas. Steam Heat and Open Fire 
Places. Telegraph and Telephone connections. 
JOHN ANDERSON, Jr., Newcomb, Essex 
County, N. Y. 



THE TEN EYCK 




LEADING HOTEL OF ALBANY, N. Y. 
f"ire:i=»roof- 

Near State Capito! and other Places of Interest 

ORCHESTRAL CONCERTS DAILY 
"THE TRELLIS," a Summer Feature 



AI.SO 



THE ONONDAGA 

SYRACUSE. N. Y. 

F-|«EF»IROOF- 

Both Hotels Conducted on :European Plan 
Under Direction of 

FRED K W. ROCKWELL, 



276 

The Fowler Livery 

....And.... 

Transfer Company. 

/ G. A. BOMBARD, Proprietor. 

Saranac Lake, N. Y. 

Telephone Connections. 
We meet all trains. 

One of the best equipped liveries in Northern 
New York. 

The Celebrated Adirondack Glens Falls Buck- 
board. 

Four-in-hands. 

Rubber-tired Hacks and Runabouts. 

GARAGE — Agent for the Jackson Automobile. 

Call by telephone or telegraph. 

THE FOWLER LIVERY and TRANSFER CO., 

Saranac Lake, N. Y. 




WHAT JOLLIER TRIP THAN 

A COACHING TRIP 

Over the interesting ways in and 
through the 

Adirondack Wilderness 

/Miner 
lAiden 
/Newc( 
\Long Lake 
iNorth Riv( 
( Blue Mt. L 



Minerva 

Lair 



F-HORTH CREEK to '^™^ 



Long Lake 
ver 
ake 



By Glens Falls Buckboard 

Anywhere Into the Woods. 
For particulars address y 

W. R. WADDELL CO., ^ 
North Greek, N. Y. 



278 



A GUIDE 

invariably seeks landmarks— or he 
may not know northeast from 
southwest. 

The oldest^ most accurate land- 
mark among local department 
stores, which has conservatively 
piloted housekeepers to assured sat- 
isfaction for generations, is this 
safe and sane shop. It is, in fact, 
an excellent Adirondack Guide to 
the goal of contentment in depart- 
ment store merchandising. 

ylsk the Woman who has been here. 

B.B. Fowler Company 

Established 1869 
GLENS FALLS, NEW YORK 



INDEX. 

Adirondacks in General 1 

Adirondack (Tahawus Club) 171-D 

Aiden Lair 171 

Ausable Chasm 40 

Au Sable Forks 132 

Bartlett Carry 83 

Beaver River 216 

Benson Mines 217 

Brown Tract 185 

Brown, John 119 

Buntline, Ned 210 

Burlington 37 

Buttermilk Falls 179-C 

Camps and Camp Supplies 14, 20 

Champlain, Lake 23 to 60 

Chateaugay Lake 63 

Chestertown 163 

Crown Point 29 

Eagle's Nest 209 

Elizabethtown 135 

Fish and Fishing 228 

Fort Freedrick 31 

Fulton Chain 185 

Gabriels 68 

Game Laws 

HOTELS. (See also p. 237.) 

Adirondack, The, Long Lake 179 

Adirondack, Old Forge 189 

Adirondack House, North Creek 171 

Adirondack Inn 183 

Aiden Lair Lodge 171-D 

Arrowhead, the 195 

Algonquin 79 

Antlers, The 200 

Au Sable Chasm, Hotel 40 

Bald Mountain House 187 



280 

HOTELS — Continued. 

Albion, The 100 

American House 132 

Banner House (i6 

Bartlett's 81 

Berkley, The 77 

Blue Mtn. Hou-,e (Merwin's) 211 

Brightside 201 

Carsons 170-A 

Cascade Lake House 122 

Cedar River House 183 

Cedar Island Camp 193 

Chester House 163 

Cohasset 191 

Crawford's 140 

Cumberland, The New 57 

Deer's Head Inn 137 

Deerland Lodge 179-A 

Eagle Bay Hotel 191 

Fouquet House 57-248 

Forge House 187 

Fenton House 216 

Fulton, Camp 191 

Grand View 106-B 

Glenwood Inn 34-247 

Grove Point House 167 

Hiawatha Lodge 91 

Hermitage, The New 217 

Hotel Champlain 53 

Hotel Northville 183 

Howard House 72 

Hunter's Home 137 

Inlet Inn 195 

Interlaken (Essex Co.) 132 

Lake Harris House 173 

Lake Placid Inn 107 



liOTELS— Continued. 

Lake Placid Club 

Lakeside Inn 

Lake View Inn 

Leland House 

Loon Lake House 

Maplewood Inn 

Mountain View, Minerva 

National, The 

Northweeds Inn 

Ondawa 

Ordway Hotel 

Osborne Inn 

Owl's Head, The 

Paul Smith's 

Raquette Lake Hotel 

Rainbow Inn 

Riverside, The 

Rocky Point Inn 

Rockwell's Hotel 

Rustic Lodge 

Sagamore, The 

Saranac Inn 

Sunset Camp 

Stevens House 

Trembleau Hall 

Undercliff 

Watch Rock Hotel 

Wawbeek Lodge 86 

Westport Inn 33 

White Face Mountain House 133 

Windsor (Elizabethtown) 137 

Windsor, New, Rouses Point 58 

Wood, The 195-247 

Indian Carry 91 

Indian Lake Village 182 

Insect Preparation 21 

>^ dian Pass 171-h 



HOTELS 

Jay 132 

Johnsburg 163 

Johnstown 183 

John Brown's Grave 121 

Keene Valley 141-142 

Keeseville 131 

LAKES AND PONDS. Elev. Page. 

Ampersand Pond 2,079 81c 

Au Sable Lake (Lower) 1,959 143 

Au Sable Lake (Upper) 1,993 145 

Avalanche Lake 2,856 127 

Beaver Lake 1,435 216 

Big Moose Lake 216-e 

Blue Mountain Lake 1,890 211 

Bonaparte Lake 217 

Brant Lake 163 

Calamity Pond 2,712 171-f 

Canada Lakes (West) 2,348 181 

Cascade Lakes 2,028 122 

Catlin Lake 1,583 174b 

Cedar Lakes 2,529 ] 81 

Chain Lakes (Seven) :i 81 

Champlain 23 

Chapel Pond 1,551 144 

Chateaugay Lake (Lower) 66 

Chateaugay Lake (Upper) 63 

Chazy Lake 1,500 62 

Colden Lake 127 

Cranberry Lake 1,540 217 

Eagle Lake 209 

Eagle Lake, Ticonderoga. 159 

Elk Lake 1.981 161 

Forked Lake 1,753 180 

Fulton Chain— First Lake 1,684 185 

Fulton Chain— Fourth Lake 1,707 189 

Fulton Chain— Eighth Lake 1,803 19C 

Giant's Washbowl 2,233 14) 



LAKES AND PONDS— Continued. 

Harkness, Lake 174b 

Henderson, Lake 1,974 171-h 

Indian Lake i/i 05 181 

Ingraham Pond 73 

Lake Harris 171 

Lake Kushaqua 68 

Lewey Lake 1,738 181 

Lake Flower 78 

Lake Ozonia 9S 

Lake Titus 71 

Long Lake 1,614 175 

Loon Lake (Franklin County) 67 

Luzerne Lake 161 

Massawepie Lake 99 

Mountain View 71 

Meacham 72 

Mirror Lake 1,856 107 

Paradox Lake 16u 

Piseco Lake 182 

Placid, Lake 1,863 105 

Pleasant Lake 1,706 183 

Preston Ponds 2,206 171-h 

Pyramid Lake 159 

Ragged Lake 71 

Rainbow" Lake 68 

Raquette Lake 1,774 197 

Raquette Pond 97 

Saint Regis Lake 1.623 69 

Sanford, Lake 1,800 173 

Saranac Lake (Lower) 1,539 80 

Saranac Lake (Middle) 1,542 81 

Saranac Lake (Upper) 1,577 83 

Seven Chain Lakes 181 

Schroon Lake 830 164 

Stony Creek Ponds 1,642 91 

Tear of the Clouds 4,321 128 

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 180 

Tupper Lake (Big) 1,554 95 



LAKES AND PONDS 

Tupper Lake (Little) 1,628 97 

Uncas 206 

Utowana Lake 209 

Lake Placid Club 113 

Lake Placid (Village) 105 

Long Lake (Village) 179-a 

Long Lake West 177 

Luzerne 163 

Malone 72 

Marion River 208 

Moose River 185 

MOUNTAINS. 

Rank. Name. Elev. Page. 

Ampersand 3,432 81 

Bald Mountain 189 

Bartlett 3,715 146 

Basin 4,905 

Blue Mountain 3,824 211 

Cobble Hill 1,936 139 

11 Colden 4,753 127 

20 Colvin 4,142 145 

' 4 Dix 4,916 143 

17 Giant 4,530 146 

12 GJothic 4,744 146 

6 Gray Peak 4,902 

3 Haystack 4,918 146 

10 Little Haystack 4,766 

Hopkins Peak 3,136 

Hurricane 3,763 139 

Indian Face 2,536 145 

19 Lyon Mountain 3,809 62 

1 Mount Marcy 5,344 128 

2 Mclntyre 5,201 125 

14 Nipple Top 4,654 143 

Noon Mark 3,548 143 

Owl's Head 2,825 177 

13 Redfield 4,688 158 



MOUNTAINS— 

16 Saddle 4,536 146 

St. Regis 2,888 70 

15 Santanoni 4,644 

18 Seward 4,384 217 

7 Skylight 4,889 158 

Snow 3,903 143 

1 Tahawus .- >^.344 125 

Wallface /....^,89_3 ITl-h 

8 Whiteface 4,871 111 

Mountain Trails 123-b 

Minerva 171-c 

Newcomb 173 

North Creek 171-180 

North River 182 

Number Four 218-e 

Old Forge 187 

Phantom Falls 216 

Plattsburg 56 

Port Henry 159 

Port Kent 40 

Potter&ville 165 

Potsdam 100 

RAILROADS. 

Delaware & Hudson 62-246 

Raquette Lake 199 

Saranac & Lake Placid 105 

Raquette Falls 93 

Raquette Lake 197 

Raquette River (lower) 9.^ 

Riverside 163 

Riverside Garage 78 

St. Regis Falls 98 

Saranac Lake, Village 73 

Schroon Lake, Village 165 

Split Rock 1 37 

Sporting Outfit 22 

Spring Cove 98 

STAGES. 



Long Lake 253 

Port Henry 253 

STEAMBOATS. 

Champlain, Lake 25-251 

Long Lake 253 

Raquette Lake 199 

Tahawus 17l-d 

Ticonderoga, Fort 27 

Tupper Lake Village 97 

Valcour Island 41 

Van Hoevenberg, Henry 123-b 

Vergennes 36 

Westport 33 

Whitehall 25 

Wilmington 133 

Advertisements not indexed above: 

Fowler LiVery. Saranac L 276 

B. B. Fowler Co 279 

Guide Books, Maps, etc 282 

Glens Falls Automobile Co 271 

North Creek Livery 277 



iT^i^' 



^'^Vij?^ 













•*THE ADIRONDACKS 

AND THEM GLORIFIED/* 



(JWm the New York Mail and Mmpreae 
June 9th t 1894.) 

** Close Upon the heels of Murray 
came S. R. Stoddard, with his camera, 
his note book and his brush, all of which 
he has used continuously for twenty- 
three years to make the fame of the 
Adirondack Wilderness known to the 
outside world. Stoddard has done even 
more than Murray to publish the results 
of his discoveries, for in g:uide books, on 
his maps, in his marvelous photographs, 
on the lecture platform, on the screen, 
in poetry and in song, he has for nearly 
a quarter of a century preached the 
Adirondacks, and them glorified." 



uoi £,% isai