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THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE

PROTECTION OF

THE ADIRONDACKS

New Yokk City

(ILLUSTRATED)

Thirty-eighth Year

;

. . THE . .

ADIRONDACKS

ILLUSTRATED.

CONTAINING • • •

DESCRIPTION OF NOTABLE FEATURES OF THE REGION ; FORESTRY AND ITS

FORESTS, THEIR CONDITION AND NEEDS ; HINTS CONCERNING FISH AND

FISHING, SUPPLIES AND GENERAL OUTFIT FOR CAMP AND TRAIL ;

COST AND MANNER OF REACHING THE VARIOUS RESORTS ;

HOTELS, WITH CAPACITY, PRICE OF BOARD, ETC. ; TABLES

OF ELEVATION AND DISTANCES; MAPS, ETC., ETC.

■ . BY . . .

S. R. STODDARD

AUTHOR OF

"TICONDEROGA," '• lAKE GEORGE and LAKE CHAMPLAIN."

It THIRTY-EIGHTH YEAR

1912

GLENS FALLS. N. Y.

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR

THE NF.W YORK
PUBLIC LIDRAPxY

563650 A

ASTOR, LEHr:r AND

TIJ-DEN KOUNDATiONS

R 1931 L

GREAT DIVISIONS.

Lake Cha.m.i)ia.in— Pa^^es 2j fo Oo.

Fort Ticonderoga, 27. Crown Point, 29. Westporu. 33.
Burlington, 38. Ausable Chasm, 41. Bluff Point, 53.

3Countain 'Region-^a^'es fss to 7^90.

Ausable Lakes, 155. Blue Mountain Lake ^^^ Cas-
cade Lakes, 123. Lake Colden, 127. Elizabeft/tdWn, 135.
Heart Lake, 125. Lake Henderson, 175. Indian Pass
-78. Keene Valley, 140. Mount Marcy, 128. North
'ilba, 119. Newcomb, 174. Placid, Lake, 103. Paradox
Lake, 160. Schroon Lake, 162.

Northwest Lake "Region— Pa^es 61 to 1 63.

Chateaugay Lake, 62. Chazy Lake, 61. Childwold, 99.
Lower Raquette River, 91. Mountain View, 71. Lake
^lacid, 103. Paul Smith's, 69. Rainbow Lake, 67.
jaranac Lake (Lower), 76. Saranac Lake (Upper), 83.
Tupper Lake, 97.
StfMhwest Lake Region — Pages 183 to 220.
^■^aver River, 216. Cranberry Lake, 217. Pulton
Chain, 184. Long Lake, 175. Raquette Lake, 199.
r*Blue Mountain Lake, 215.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

QREETINQ :

I made my first trip to the heart of the Adirondack
Wilderness in 1873, covering in a series of loops its
more noted sections and routes, and gave the results
of the experience the following year in narrative form
On this narrative thread has been annually strung
the changes of succeeding years.

Changes ? Wild grass grows on the old routes and
the unknown places of then are now centers of a sum-
mer population greater than the total of all Adiron-
dack visitors of twenty years ago.

So the old " Narrative " is dropped and the space
given to that which is believed to be of more value to
the tourist generally, condensed and in a more con-
venient size for the pocket. The "New Adiron-
dacks " is the result. How do you like it ?

Railroads encircle the Adirondacks like the iron
frame of a landmg net. From the encircling lines
others penetrate the interior, crossing each other and
branching in turn to reach important points, or lose
themselves among the mountains or in the w^atery
highways that are woven in a net-work all over the
lake region of the west. Let us consider the Wilder-
ness as the face of a great clock, with Mount Marcy
the pivot on which the mighty hands are turning.

GREETING.

The more important Gateways are numbered to rep^
resent the hours, according to position ; thus Platts-
burgh fairly represents I o'clock, Port Kent II, West-
port III, while the others follow in order as the hands

go the familiar way
around the dial.
The several routes
from important
points to Gateways
will be found on
pages 236- 7-S. The
route tointeriOi*
points is followed
separately from
each Gateway in
the following
pages, for which
see index. The
map on page 4 will
give a clear idea
of the location of
the resorts and the ways by which they are gained.
Hotels are referred to in special index, page 280.
For rates of board and particulars not found in
the body of the book, see page 237. For moun-
tains and table of elevations, page 285. Lakes
and ponds page 282. Suggestions concerning
camp and outfit will be found on page 14. For
fishing and fishing outfit see page 228. Game
laws 225.

GRE ETING.

The preservaiion of the forests— of great value as a
whole — is of vital importance as regards the tribu-
taries of the Hudson River. The gradual shrinkage

in the water sup-
ply of this river,
with its sudden
floods and as sud-
den drying-up of
tributary
streams, are
warnings that
should not be ig-
nored. Royal of
birth though it
be ; famed the
world over and
beautiful beyond
compare, it is
less known in its
birthplace than
i n almost any
other section of
the wilderness The forest covering of this entire
region is threatened with destruction ! It should be
under control of the State. A law should be enacted
proJiibiting the cutting of evergreen trees on all
Adirondack lands lying i, 800 feet above //V/<f, (ex-
cept with the approval of competent authority under
the government), regardless of ownership.

[Light portion shows Hudson River drainage.]

GREETING.

The words are as true to-day as when written in
1893 — and the danger as great. Governor Flower
forced action which was of much value to the Adi-
rondacks as a whole ; Governor Black advanced it
still farther; the law of 1897 was in the right direc-
tion ; the State Forestry, Fish and Game Commission
has done a splendid work ; very great help has come
through that agency against which public clamor has
been loudest — the millionaire clubman with his pri-
vate preserve, — yet the greatest possible good has not
been attained for the effort has been largely outside
the section in real peril. The blind spot in the
Public Eye is over this region from which the Hud-
son draws its supply.

And the Lumberman goes merrily forward with the
work which is clearly within his legal rights ; and the
Wood-pulp Member softly closes one knowing eye,
secure in that Legislative Courtesy which forbids
that others with jobs of their own shall meddle with
his Territory, while with sound of cymbals and of
drums the Legislative Committee swings 'round on
pleasant excursions, over the best roads, and are en-
tertained at the elegant hotels that stand by the
waters that discharge into the Dominion of Canada!

And the threatened tributaries of the Hudson River
remain a closed book or are seen as through a glass
darkly.

THE QUESTION OF THE DAY.

The propagation of game and fish in the Adi-
rondacks is eminently commendable as a senti-
ment; the great State Park is an undoubted bless-
ing, and the preservation of the forests for the
Nation's sanitarium of great worth to humanity,
but the question of pure water for the millions is
infinitely more important than all others.

Soon the people of the great cities must look to
the mountains for the water they drink. They
have a right to it, untainted, and to its undimin-
ished flow — now jeopardized by the cutting away
of the forests about its head.

The great western plateau can suffer little per-
manent injury — burnt levels reclothe themselves
quickly, but the tree-stripped mountain-side in-
vites the fire, its mould becomes ashes, the rains
descend and the rock stands naked, until, by slow
process, vegetation climbs to its limits once more.
This is the danger that threatens. The warning
is seen in the great river that shrinks in drouth
and throbs with sudden flood.

The State should control the Hudson River
watershed absolutely, to the rim. Water storage
(as in the proposed Sacandaga reservoir) is in
the right direction. Such would to a consider-
able degree hold back the destructive spring
floods, for use in time of drouth. Even the flood-
ing of State land could do no appreciable
harm, so long as all dams and constructive
work are kept outside the Forest Preserve.
There, however, the line should be drawn and
fixed, unalterably, forever.

THE GAME LAWS

Every year men are shot and killed in the Adi-
rondacks by mistake for deer. In old days when
dogs were used in driving such "accidents were
unknown. Remedy: Legalize "hounding" and
save the man. The law as it stands was made
by outsiders and is in the interests of the wealthy
sportsman, who has acquired skill in "still" hunt-
ing and who would not grieve if the novice finds
it difficult to learn.

The men who spend their lives in the moun-
tains and make it possible for the visitor to come
should have rights to its products above the out-
sider, who simply pays his dollar for license to
shoot. Yet they are taxed and held under the
same restrictions while high salaried game keep-
ers are sent to spy on them that they do not
offend. The human tendency is to resent this
and it makes law breakers among those who see
no reason why their family should go hungry
while the means of satisfying is held for the mere
"sport" of others.

A safe and sane law would permit "hounding"
to save the man.

It should prohibit the pursuit of deer in any
boat or the killing in any water beyond the ani-
mal's wading depth.

It should permit the resident to kill during the
open season to any extent for family use.

THE GAME LAWS

Non-residents should be required to take out
a license as at present, which should limit the
killing to one deer, "with horns," and prohibit
the sale or carrying of any dead deer outside the
county where killed.

Adirondack Hotels should be permitted to

erve venison during the open season and for so

ong a time thereafter as the meat can be preserved

fresh. The landlord who serves venison at any

time for a price now violates the law,

ABOUT TROUT. Not one in fifty who seek
the Adirondacks for health or pleasure cares to
go fishing though most everyone likes the taste
of trout. But the landlord who serves the
"speckled beauties" for a price breaks the law.
By connivance with him it may be made to ap-
pear that it is your "catch." Does that please
you?

Don't blame the Landlord "for he's a jolly good
fellow" and would do everything expected if he
were free. Don't blame the Native — his wages
come with the visitor. Don't blame the wise
sportsman. He is "conserving the species" (for
his convenience in the name of "Sport") and just
pulls the strings at Albany as preliminary.

It is a wrong to native and visitor all the same
and should be remedied.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

CHAPTER I.
In General.

ON wings of thought swifter than the lightning's-
flash we sweep away across the drowsy earth,
past smoke-polluted cities, sun-scorched meadows^
burning plain and highways wnth their flaunting skirts
of sand, nor rest until the fragrant odor of wild
flowers and the dewy breath of forest trees come like
incense wafted to us from below.

Come with me up into a high mountain. I cannot
show you ''all the kingdoms of the world," — but
"the glory of them." Over a rippling ocean of for-
ests first in long, swelling waves, now rising, now
sinking down into deep hollows ; here in grand moun-
tains, crested as with' caps of foam, there tormented
by counter currents into wildly dashing shapes, like
ocean billows frozen by Divine command, their sum-
mits glittering granite, their deep green troughs
gleaming with threads of silver and bits of fallen sky.

2 THE ADIRONDACK5.

Now the trees of the valley glide away behind us,
now come dark spruce and pine and the sturdy balsam
climbing the mountain-side, tall and graceful at first
but as the mountains rise, growing smaller, gnarled
and twisted, and scarce above the surface, sending
their branches out close along the ground, their white
tops bleached and ghastly, like dead roots of upturned
trees ; now the hardy lichens ; now naked rock, and we
stand on the wind-swept summit of " Tahawus," the
cloud-piercer of the Indian.

Around Tahawus cluster the other great mountains
— east, west, north, south — limitless, numberless, a
confused mass of peaks and ridges, crowding close
up to the base of their chief, and receding in waves of
green all down through the scale of color to its blue
and purple edge. Pen can convey no idea of its sub-
limity ; the pencil fails to even suggest the blended
strength and delicacy of the scene. The rude laugh
is hushed, the boisterous shout dies out on reverential
lips, the body shrinks down feeling its own littleness,
while the soul expands, and rising above the earth,
claims kinship with its Creator, questioning not His
existence.
"Westward from the mountains, in a broad semi-
circle, at an average elevation of i,6oo feet
above tide, is the Great Lake Region,
where a multitude of lakes and ponds form
the head-waters of streams that radiate
to all points, finding their way south to
the Hudson, or at the west and north into the great

THE ADIRONDACKS. , 9

lakee and through the St. Lawrence into the sea.
These western lakes and streams are so closely con-
nected that almost every mile of that section may be
traversed by boat, save for short carries from one
water system i ito another, or to go around some rapid
or waterfall.

The term Adirondack, interpreted to mean " Bark-
eater," was originally applied in derision by the In-
dians of the south to tribes occupying the northern
slope of the interior, and in time was used to desig-
nate the mountains, until finally by common use it
was extended to include the entire wilderness. The
section is an irregular oval, covering about 90 miles
east and west and a hundred or more north and south,
with its eastern third cut off by Lake George and
Lake Champlain. Out of this is to be taken a con-
siderable section of cleared and cultivated land
around the border and in old settled valleys, leaving
an area of wilderness.O[f .between 7,000 to 8,000 square
miles. In the interior are numerous small clearings
amounting to considerable in the aggregate but, like
the spots on the sun, small compared with the exist-
ing wild section.

The wilderness may be divided into three general
divisions which, collectively, entertain the great bulk
of visitors, namely the Lake Placid and the Saranac
and SL Regis waters of the northwest. The moun-
tain region of Essex County which includes Eliza-
bethtown and Keene Valley ^vith entrance at West-
port ; and the Blue Mountain, Raquette and Long

THE ADIRONDACKS. 5

Lake waters of Hamilton County in the southwest
Each section while possessing something of the char-
acteristics of the others, has its own special attractions,
and while connected by natural highways over which
the nomad often goes, still to a considerable extent,
each preserves its own individuality, and is complete
and sufficient unto itself. Smaller but notable are
Childwold, Gale and Tupper Lake sections in St.
Lawrence county and Fulton Chain and Beaver River
in Herkimer county.

Essex county is the most picturesque in high moun-
tains and wild lakes, and is visited more than any
other section by those who seek to delight the eye
with beautiful scenes. The West is wildest in its
tangle of woven lakes and streams that duplicate each
Dther over and over again throughout its broad ex-
panse. The North is the oldest, the best known and
visited and iz ..'.^^ the most fashionable. The South
is the tamest and of least interest and enterprise.

A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom
m ^ugh or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing

ng^ijial in its bright skies and pure atmosphere.
L viiventionalities that obtain at other resorts are not
held binding here. The fact of actual presence is ac-
cepted as guaranty of the possession of those mutual
sympathies and qualifications which here, at least,
make the whole world kin. Ladies travel without
male escort from one end of the wilderness to the
other, indeed, it is no uncommon thing for parties to
make the tour of the woods, accompanied only by the

6 THE ADIRONDACKS.

necessary complement of guide to furnish motive
power, spending day after day in their boat, and each
night reaching one step farther in the extended sys-
tem of hotels.

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashion-
able resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the
conventional stage trapper, who occa-
sionally bursts upon the astonished wild-
erness in fringed buckskin, and is marked
at once as a "fresh." Your right to
enter the best society will not be ques
tioned because of dress. Clothing ordi-
narily worn is sui?icient for all occasions,
with perhaps the addition of a soft felt
hat and roomy walking shoes or boots for boat or
tramp. Camp and Sporting Outfit, clothing, supplies,
etc. , are given in a special chapter, with various sug-
gestions.

Hunting is standard sport here and the great at-
traction to a majority ot Adirondack visitors. Game
of the smaller variety such as partridges, squirrels
etc., can be found in the woods almost anywhere.
Deer have increased in numbers within the past few
years under the provisions of the law prohibiting
their indiscriminate slaughter which the resident, from
guide to hotel keeper, has learned was to his interest
to see enforced. To the credit of the clubs, that get
little but maledictions from the unattached sportsman
generally for " fencing in " their land, be it said that
th«se reservations under regulations -which are held

THE ADIRONDACKS.

binding on member and invited guest alike, are pro-
lific nurseries for game that overflows into the sur-
rounding forests and from which the casual sports-
man derives unacknowledged benefit. The visitor
should be lenient. Even the most bloated millionaire-
-^lub-member in existence has rights on this earth
A^hich are entitled to thoughtful consideration.

Trout are to be found in most Adirondack streams,
generally in proportion to the whipping they get al-
though the fish seem to thrive in some sections better

than in others,
while a careful
observance of
the law and
j udicious re-
stocking of
streams has
made certain
sections notable
above others to
lovers of the
gentle art
Trout, their habits and peculiarities, with sug-
gestions as to outfit, fishing, etc. , is treated at length
11. a special chapter by the late A. N. Cheney, a
rerogEJzed authority in the matter whereof he
speaks. It gives, in readable shape, more solid in-
formation of use to the fisherman than a whole
library of ordinary fishing romances of the day.
with their sensations, impressions, tingles, thrills
and frills.

5 THE ADIK.ONDACKS.

In the net-work of ways and their multitude Oj
branches traversing the wilderness continuity of pro-
g-ress may not be. A comprehensive glance will help
in acquiring necessary details. Information gathered
from all available sources, has been arranged in the
following pages on a carefully considered system.
Here is the key. As a whole the ways into the wilder-
ness are considered under the head of "Gateways."
(See index.) Following, each gateway is given sepa-
rately, with lines leading to particular centres, with
distances and fares to points named.

Expenses cannot be fairly estimated, varying widely
as they do with the habits and requirements of dif-
ferent individuals. If you go in channels having
public conveyances, traveling expenses may be fairly
determined by referring to fares, etc. , found under
their appropriate heading. If you go outside the
public lines ^^ .,xavel you must have special convey-
ance. If you travel by boat, or go into camp, you
wall require the service of a guide.

Places of entertainment are scattered throughout
the wilderness, ranging from the well appointed hotel
to the log house of the interior and open camps where
the guide is host and moves his whole establishment
if necessary to suit his guests. The prices at the
different houses range from one to four dollars a day
and upward according to accommodations and service.
Ordinarily the rates are very reasonable for standard
accommodations, but you must not expect all tne
modern conveniences at a dollar a day. They can he

THE ADIRONDACKS.

^-^^'ick.^"^-V"i'''

had at many of the hotels, but it costs money to pro-
vide them and the visitor must pay for it. When a
hotel advertises board at so much *' and upward" it
means "and up-
ward." Particulars
concerning hotels,
including price for
board, accommoda-
tions, etc., will be
given in connection
with the section
r.'here such n o t e 1 s
are located, unless for some reason particulars do not
reach me in tim.e for the a,nnual revision. For names
of hotels see special index.

Guides ordinarily receive $3 per day, furnishing
boat and necessary cooking and table utensils. In
camp you furnish the supplies, the guide cooks and
does other necessary camp work. He rows and
"backs" the boat over the carries where there are
no other means provided ; (at carries where horses
are kept the employer is expected to pay for trans-
portation). One guide and boat is ordinarily suffi-
cient for two persons in traveling, but for independ-
ence in fishing and hunting each sportsman should
have his individual guide. If you employ a guide for
any service at any hotel you are charged for his
"keep" at one-half to two-thirds regular rates.
There are two classes of guides, known respectively
ar " hotel " and "independent." The former are en-

10 THE ADIRONDACKS.

gaged for the season by hotel proprietors, who re-
let them to parties; the latter must be dealt with
personally. There are good men in both classes,
the nature of the surroundings usually determine
to which class they belong: experience only can
determine their suitability for your peculiar wants.
As a class they are a fine set of men. The best
guides are often engaged for a year in advance,
as some sportsmen would as soon think of going
without his gun as without his favorite guide.

If you go into camp life and can afford the ex-
pense, take a trained cook along. Guides can as a
rule, prepare an acceptable forest meal, and some
are very skillful in that line, but the very quali-
ties which contribute to make the successful guide
— "the mighty hunter" — often renders him indif-
ferent to the quality of his food, and incapable of
understanding the cravings of a delicate appetite.
At all events, carry a cook book. Camp fare is apt
to be monotonous after a time, and although
familiar with a hundred dishes, when brought face
to face with the necessity of preparing a straight
meal, your mind becomes a blank and you drop
weakly back to the same old stew of yesterday —
and the day before — and life becomes a burden.
You are presumably out for pleasure, do not,
therefore, make severe labor of it. Have

THE ADIRONDACKS. II

paid help sufficient to do camp work, if, at any time,
inclination tempt you to watch the zenith from some
mossy vantage ground, or to drift
idly among the still waters, absorb- "^n

ing with newly awakened instincts ..:.--'"' . ^
the subtle lessons / "^-^^ V*'"^^^^^^

taught bv nature. , ( /// ^^^S^ \l /\}^f ^^M ^

Theglor'iously ^^^^^^¥^^^-^^1
healthful air of V^fe^^^Sk -'A<,

the wild e r n e s s

will unquestion-
ably give new life
and vigor, but it
labors at a disadvantage, if your bed of boughs afford
no rest and sleep comes only with complete exhaus-
tion, as often happens in the first few nights in camp.
At such times the early morning finds you pitably
weak and languid instead of refreshed and ready to
move simply because motion is a relief to the poor
bruised body and aching joints. "Roughing it" is
grand in theory, and sounds well in after history, but
is bad in practice and often impedes if it does not en-
tirely defeat the object for which it is undertaken.

Parties have "done" the Adirondacks with map,
book and compass, without the aid of a regular guide ;
but the way is full of hardships for such that may be
avoided by those accustomed to the country, while if
comfort, distance, and time lost in out-of-the-way
places are taken into consideration such a course is
attended with but little economy.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Bear in mind that this book is designed to give its
readers in convenient shape information concerning
points and places, roads and regions that can be
visited over public ways ; matters of general interest
to the ninety-and-nine, with hints and suggestions of
the deeper mysteries of camp and trail to the hun-
dredth one, that may pilot him to points where the
intelligent guide becomes a necessity, and beyond

which, direc-
^'-.^^ tion in book
5S^rf form would
confuse, rathei
than instruct.
For the sake
of clearness,
therefore, I have omitted description of the multitude
of smaller ponds, streams and trails which duplicate
each other in many places, which no one should at-
tempt to follow without an experienced guide. To
those who would have a comprehensive idea of the
whole region, it is hoped the map, designed to supple-
ment the information contained herein, will be a
welcome companion until it can be safely laid aside
for the more specific knowledge of the guide, whose
office neither book nor map can ever f^.U.

A large portion of the great Adirondack region

had never been surveyed with chain and rod when

the original "Tourist-map" was undertaken. In its

construction all available sources of information

were brought into requisition. Important points

THE ADIRONDACKS 13

outside the wilderness proper were determined
in accordance with official surveys, and connected
with the mountains of the interior, whose prin-
cipal peaks were accurately located by triangula-
tion made expressly for the work. In addition to
this absolutely reliable material, drawings on an
extended scale of small sections, covering in the
aggreate the entire region, were made and sent
in duplicate to men familiar with the various
localities for corection, and were drawn as full
and complete as possible — careful attention being
given to prooprtion and distance — with wild trails,
carries, ponds and streams. Reduced to an uni-
form scale by photography, the result approached
perfection as nearly as could be, short of actual
trigonometrical survey. The map was completed
in 1879 and issued revised annually and corrected
to keep pace with changes of road and trail,
camp and hotel in this rapidly changing section.

A new map now takes the place of the old con-
taining all important features of the United
States Geodetic Survey to date, with the special
features of camp and trail which made the origi-
nal so valuable. The price on Map bond paper
in cloth covers with complete index of mountains,
lakes and places, post paid, is one dollar. The
same map on cheaper paper without the index
and in paper covers, 50 cents.

CHAPTER II.
Outfit, Camp, Supplies, Suggestions, Etc.

MAKE out a complete list of articles that are con-
sidered necessary or desirable in the proposed
trip, each member for himself, in advance of the time
of departure, then in committee of the whole decide
on what is really necessary or suitable, taking into
consideration the nature of the trip and means of
reaching the appointed camping ground. If it be
not over-difficult of access, carry anything which
will contribute to your reasonable comfort, in the
way of blankets, clothing, etc.

For camp outfit and woods life the following is
recommended. A complete change of underclothing ;
two pairs of serviceable socks, but slightly heavier
than you habitually wear at the season (soft wool is
preferable) ; pair colored flannel shirts with wide col-
lars, confined at the throat by a substantial silk hand-
kerchief. (If the unaccustomed material chafes the
neck the shirts may be put on outside the garment
ordinarilv worn in which case linen collars must not
be forgotten.) The trowsers and vest should be of
some strong woolen goods, the coat the same, cut
rather short and to button close up to the neck. Have
pockets, ample and numerous, with covers ; you will
find use for them. Wear a soft felt hat with a
reasonably wide brim. (By grasping it in a manner
easily learned the rim forms a convenient drinking
cup.) Do not commit the too common error of pro-
curing new shoes or boots for the occasion. A pair
of laced shoes, roomy, but not too loose, well broken
to the foot, with broad soles and rather low heels, is
best. The uppers should be of rather light grained

THE ADIRONDACKS.

kip or water-proof leather. Have leather or canvas
leggings, strapped under the instep and buttoning, or
to lace at the side well up toward the knee. Boots
may be used in place of shoes and leggings, if pre-
ferred, but the evidence is largely in favor of the shoe.
It is well to have a duplicate pair for alternates in

wet weather.
Rubber boots,
although con-
venient at
times, are not
suitable for
general wear
or for travel-
ing. A light
overcoat will
be found very
comfortable at
times. Among
the necessaries
should be included rubber coat and overalls for use in
rainy weather, for the best fishing is often found under
dripping clouds. Have also a light rubber blanket
to throw over the knees and feet when in boat, or
to protect you, in sleeping, from moisture below or
above. For lounging in camp take a pair of common
canvas slippers and sew on them cloth tops to come
up around the ankle, and tie outside the trowsers.
For sleeping at night — if you have moral courage
sufficient to stand before your fellows in such a gear —
a single garment of any suitable material — (calico if
you like) — combining shirt, drawers and stockings
without opening save the necessary one of entrance
at the top, to button close about the neck, will be
found wonderfully comforting while wandering ants
and inquisitive though harmless bugs may be mak-
ing life miserable for those with only the ordinary

A POSSIBILITY.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

garments. A further addition may be made in shape
of a friar's hood attached at back of neck. A light
cloth or silk cap will be found comfortable for night
use if you don't take kindly to the above.

Ladies' outfit contemplates a subject in which I
would not presume to dictate ; I have learned better.
I humbly submit, however, that it is your first duty
to make yourself as attractive as possible, subject only
to the requirements of place and season. I would
suggest that, whatever may be allowable in the way
of " fine " dressing, itis not con-
sidered necessary, or even in
good taste. Often the sweetest
girls that ever brightened the
wilderness with their presence
reign queens of the evening in
the same bewitching costume in
which they boated and climbed
the mountains in the early morn-
ing. Consult some lady friend
who has spent a season in the
woods as to what constitutes a
suitable outfit. In absence of other infor-
mation the following is suggested for boat,
camp and tramp. Underclothing, such as
experience has shown best suited to the sea-
son and your individual comfort, giving
fine flannel the preference in all but the very warmest
weather. Underskirts should generally be of dark
flannel, although, if much walking is to be done, one
of dark cotton will be found an agreeable substitute
as less clinging than woolen. A becoming dress may
be made of blue or gray flannel or ladies' cloth. It
mav be pleated back and front, gathered at the
waist, or fitting loosely to the form, but should in any
case allow perfect freedom in the use of the arms.
The skirt should be not overfull, and cut a finger

Illli ADIRONDACKS. * 17

shorter than the ordnar^' walking dress Trim but
little, in shades of same color as body ; a cord at
wrist, collar and waist-band, with a knot of ribbon
or a wild flower at the throat, is sufficient. A dainty
bit of ruffling or old lace about the neck transforms
the morning into an evening toilet. Wear a soft felt
hat with wide brim ; trim with forest leaves. Wear
a lady's hat, if they differ from a man's. Doii t
ape masculinity in dress. The average Adirondack
sportsman does not admire it, although, if confronted
by the horrid fact he is often too much of a gentle-
man to tell the truth. Wear dark serviceable hose
and substantial roomy Balmoral boots, with broad
soles and low, broad heels. Wear Lisle thread, cotton
or doeskin gloves. They may be made with long
wristlets to button or tie outside the dress sleeve,
to guard agamst possible attack of black fly or mos-
quito. A chatelaine belt and pocket, with tin drink-
ing cup, etc. , is convenient. A light sun umbrella of
the walking-stick pattern is a comfort in rain or shine.
A shawl will often be found acceptable of an evening
following the warmest of days. Carry a rubber oi
waterproof circular with hood, a pair of light rubber
overshoes and a piece of light rubber cloth to throw
over the lap and feet if surprised in a boat by one of
those fast-moving Adirondack showers.

In rough weather sit or lie low in the boat ; 7tever,
at such times, grasp the sides to support yourself. A
skillful boatman will manage in safety one of those
light Adirondack shells in the roughest of water, if
allowed entire control of boat and load. Go fearlessly
into the woods. It is stated on the highest authority
that not a noxious plant or venomous serpent exists
in the Adirondacks.

In selecting a camping place during warm weather,
choose an island or an exposed point free from under-
brush where the wind will, to a great extent, free voti

THE ADIRONDACKS.

from the mosquito and fly. In cool weather, it is
needless to say, choose the thicket ; in either case,
remember that a cold spring or brook and material
for the camp-fire conveniently near adds very much
to your comfort. A baric or bough camp will do in
absence of anything better, but is nothing like as
comfortable or convenient as a tent. An "A" tent,
seven by eight feet on the ground, affords comfort-
able sleeping room for four, and on occasion five or even
six. A rope, passing through lengthwise at the top
and out at the ends, takes the place of ridge pole,
and may be fastened to convenient trees or over
crotched sticks cut the proper height, and tied to

stakes. The ma-
terial should be
of cotton (water
and mildew-
proof), and com-
plete, need not
weigh more than
nine to twelve
poun ds. In
pitching the
tent, if on a side
hill, dig a " A "
shaped trench to
lead running wa-
teron either
side ; if on the level, ditch all around. A wall tent
is better than a circular or an "A" tent. If along
stay is anticipated, it pays to build log sides on which
to mount the tent, and cover with a " fly" to insure
certain protection from rain. A sheet-iron camp-
stove can be procured of the dealers, or may be easily
made to answer every purpose, and pays if your stay
in one place be long enough to warrant the trouble of
transportation. In making your bed of boughs, re-

THE ADIRONDACKS. 19

member that solid wood, if fitted to the form, is as
comfortable as a bed of down. Apply the fact by
burrowing or hollowing out cavities to fit the pro-
jecting points of hip and shoulder. Cover the
boughs with a rubber blanket, in addition to which
each member of the party should have a pair of
heavy blankets. A small bag, filled with leaves or
moss is an improvement on a pair of boots used
as a pillow, but not aii tnat nature craves ; ana ac
the risk of exciting ridicule — from idiots — I am free
to recommend a small, well-filled feather pillow. It
pays for itself in a single night's use. A few yards
of mosquito netting drawn across the front of the
tent after a good smudge is a luxury which declares
a big diurnal dividend. For long, forced marches, a
hammock made of cotton duck with a cover of the
same, but somewhat shorter, buttoned over at each
side, and forming a sort of pocket, is, with the addi-
tion of rubber blanket, bed and tent combined. A
little ingenuity will suggest manner of arranging
hocps over the face to cover with canvass or mosquito
netting, as circumstances may require.

Don't expect your guide to double
carries habitually, rather reduce your
baggage or get extra packmen for its
transportation — or carry a part of the
" duffle" yourself.

A champaigne basket, covered with
waterproof cloth and provided with
shoulder loops for carrying, makes an
admirable pack basket. A rubber, or
waterproof bag, or an ordinary two-
bushel grain bag, with carrying loops
of webbing, may be used for extra cloth-
ing, blankets, etc. Let your load rest well down on
the back to carry.
The camp kit may consist of a long-handled frying

20 THE ADIRONDACKS.

pan, a deep stew pan with a cover, a nest of three or
four covered tin pails, for water, tea, coffee, etc., pint
tin cups, tin plates, a wire toaster of the gridiron pat-
tern, a ladle or large iron spoon, table and teaspoons,
knives and forks, and last but not least, soap, dish
cloths and towels.

Carry a pocket compass with you at all times — the
best woodsmen are often temporarily at fault. An
ordinary lantern for camp use, candles, matches (a few
wind-proof and water-proof), towels, tooth brush,
comb, pocket mirror, pans, needles and thread, a few
extra buttons to match those worn, oil or tallow foi
your boots, stamped envelopes, light hunting knife in
sheath, light axe in sheath. Carry a supply of light
reading of the convenient Franklin Square or Lake-
side pattern. Take no large boxes with sharp corners,
nor any article too heavy or unwieldy for one man to
handle.

Camp supplies may be had from hotels generally,
but many prefer to carry their own. Veterans need
no advice, but to the novice the following suggestions
are made. First, consult your cook book. See v\"hat
is needed in the preparation of proposed dishes and
provide accordingly. The following list contains the
staple articles : Wheat, Graham flour, corn, and
oat meal, beans, Boston and soda crackers, lemon
biscuit, baking powder, self-raising flour, maple sugar,
loaf sugar, tea, coffee, condensed milk, bottled horse-
radish, mustard, vinegar, pepper and salt in boxes
with perforated covers, dried fruit, canned fruit, but-
ter (packed in salt and enclosed in hermetically sealed
cans, which can be anchored in spring holes or under
cold running water.) Bacon is extremely nice when
sweet, as is also 'pork, unpoetical but palatable, and
on occasion taking place of butter and all the
seasonings. Dried beef is an important item ;
" jerked venison," one of the best things imaginable

THE ADIRONDACKS. 21

to carry when setting out for a tramp ; (ask your guide
to show you how it is prepared.) For relishes —
shades of mighty trout and speckled beauties forgive
us — take a box of red herring. Bermuda onions fill
an aching void which nothing else can fill. Canned
beef, pork and beans, corn, tomatoes, condensed soup,
etc. , may be added. Fresh vegetables and potatoes
can be had from the hotels. Carry no liquor ; if wet
and cold, Jamaica ginger has all the heating proper-
ties of whisky ; while strong black coffee is a better
stimulant, with none cf the evil ef-
fects following.

The Medicine Chesi need not be
extensive. It should, however, con-
tain cathartic pills and a cholera
medicine cf some kind ; a small
bottle cf collodion (composed of
eqral parts of alcohol and either,
with gun-cot con added) about the
consistency of heavy varnish ; (applied to burns and
small wounds, this collodion forms an artilicial skin,
impervious alike to air and water) ; ammonia (to allay
irritation arising from bites of insects) cold cream or
glycerine (for chapped face or hands) , court-plaster,
seidlitz powders, ointment and adhesive plasters, lint
and bandages, to use in case of emergency. To stop
the flow of blood from wounds, bind on equal parts
of flour and common salt ; for burns, apply wheat
flour or collodion.

Insect preparation may be procured of the drug-
gist, or comipounded by yourself. The most conven-
ient, and effective perhaps as any, is six parts cf mut-
ton tallow to one of oil of pennyroyal, with a little
camphor added. Tar ointment in the proportion of
two ounces of sweet oil and one of oil cf tar is good.
("A coating of the grease from ham rinds, well
rubbed on, is the best yet known," sa^^s George K.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Holmes, of Great Carrington, Mass.) Anoint ex.
posed portions of tlie person with any of the above,
then stand back and mar^ the frenzy of the baffled
punkey.

Do not rely on what boolcs tell you about sporting-
outfit. If you know nothing about the subject place
yourself under the direction of some one who does, and
trust him until 3^ou can judge for yourself. The most
enticing of fancy flies in the hands of a greenhorn
will not yield much sport — except to outsiders — and
the grandest achievement in modern firearms re-
quires some ^

skill in using. ^^

If you have the
requisite skill,
carry a rifle ; if
not, a fowling-
piece is better.
For light game,
birds, etc.,
there is per-
haps no m o r e
convenient o "
serviceable arm
to carry into

camp than the "pocket" rifle, manufactured by the
J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company of Chicopce
Falls, Mass, A 12 to 15-inch barrel, '^c-calibre, is
recommended. The weight is less than three pounds.
A shot-gun barrel is also made to fit the same frame
so that either may be used at will.

Are you artistic ? Carry a camera of the Kodak
pattern or wdth small plate. A plate large enough to
make a lantern slide ^delds a larger percentage of com-
fort compared with trouble than any other size made.

CHAPTER III.

Lake Champlain and the Eastern Border
Resorts

SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, a Frenchman, was the
first white man known to have seen the Adiron-
dacks when, in i6og, he accompanied a band of Indians
from the St. Lawrence on an expedition against their
southern enemies, and. as graphically told by the ad-
venturer himself ' ' encountered a war party of the
Iroquois on the 29th of the month, about ten o'clock
at night, at the point of a cape which puts out into the
lake on the west side." A battle ensued in which
Champlain astonished the enemy and proved the su-
periority of fire-arms over savage spear and arrov".
This happened the sam.e year that Hendrick Hudson
sailed up the river that now bears his name, and
eleven years before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth
Rock. Champlain wrote an account of the affair, call-
ing the sheet of water explored by his own name —
Lake Champlain. It may be worthy of note that
exactly two centuries after Champlain' s passage in a
canoe, and one year after Fulton's steamboat went up
the Hudson , the first steamboat was launched on Lake
Champlain.

Liake Cliaraplain is very like a long, slim radish
in shape, with long roots and outbranching river
fibers. Whitehall is at the little (south) end of the
radish ; at Burlington it is quite a respectable vege-
table ; then come blotches of .rock and islands, and
beyond that, the leaves, spreading out on either side
and toward the North overlapping the Canada line.

On the f^ast is Vermont, sweeping away in a broad.
23

pjORTMENRYy/f
kFRcDERtC^CROWN PT RUINS

24 'JUK ADIRiiNDACKS.

cultivated plain that gradually ascends to the ridges
of the Green Mountains. Along the southern and
central portion of the lalce the rocky, western shores
come abruptly to the water's edge. Backward, rising-
ridge on ridge, the highest, misty with distance, are
the Adirondack mountains. Here and there are little

_— ^— ^^« bits of cultivated

land and breaks in
the mountains that
are the gateways to
the wilderness. Far-
ther north the moun-
tains fall away from
the lake and a level,
well-cultivated coun-
try presents itself.

The distance from
Whitehall to Fort
Montgomery, accord-
ing to the United
States coast survey,
is 107^4^ miles. Its
greatest width,
which is near the
outlet of Ausable
river, is 12I3 miles.
]SI e a s u r i n g north
into ]\Iissisquoi bay
on the cast side,
(which extends down
into Canada, and is
separated from the
- or

ICROWN POIK
T1C0NDERQ6,

LARRABEES POtNl

MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN

Showing Steamboat Route.

outlet by Alburgh Tongue), the extreme length _
the lake is about iiS miles. Its elevation above tide
is 99 feet. Its greatest depth (at a point i^g miles
southeast of Essex landing) 399 feet.

The principal islands are near the north end. The
two largest are known respectively as North and South

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Hero, and collectively as Grand Isle, the two
forming a county in Vermont.

Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, is
219 miles north of New York, and 78 from Albany.

The "D. & H." Railroad extending along the
west shore of Lake Champlain, is a link in the air
line between New York and Montreal, and the
main artery of travel between the two great
cities. At various points, rail or stage routes
diverge, leading into the wilderness.

Steamboats, in which the traveling public may
have an interest, belong to the,-^Ciiamplain Trans-
portation Company, of which D. A. Looniis is Gen-
eral Manager, with office at Burlington, Vt.
Steamer "Vermont" runs on Lake Champlain to
connect with steamer on Lake George, exchanging
passengers by shuttle train between the two
lakes.

4 ^.

J'," ' 'm-i

^5^a

>v-i

THE ADIRONDACKS 27

Steamer Vermont is a graceful vessel, designed
specially for pleasure travel, a splendid piece of
shipcraft, new for the season of 1903, taking the
place of the old boat of the same name which
is now withdrawn. It leaves Plattsburg at 7 a. m.,
touches at intermediate landings and reaches
Fort Ticonderoga about noon. Returning, arrives
at Plattsburg at 7 p. m. During the summer sea-
son a connecting train is run from Plattsburg to
Montreal.

Steamer Ticonderoga leaves Westport at 6:45
a. m. daily, Sunday excepted ,and touching at
points (see map) reaches St. Albans Bay 1 p. m.;
returning, touches as above, and arrives at West-
port 7 p. m.

Steamer Chateaugay operates regular schedule
during July and August on Mondays and Satur-
days between St. Albans Bay and Burlington. Bal-
ance of time is used for excursion business be-
tween the different points of interest.

Fort Ticonderoga is 24 miles north of Whitehall
on a bold promontory between the outlet of Lake
George and the waters of Lake Champlain. Here
were enacted the principal events in the play of
the Lake, where three great nations struggled for
the prize of a continent. Here precious blood
flowed like water, for it was the key to the "gate
of the country," and by its position elected to be-
come historic ground. The name is the composite
of attempts to convey the Indian sound, in Eng-
lish, of Tienderoga, Cheonderoga, or as we have
it now — "Ticonderoga" — meaning the coming to-
gether or meeting of waters.

The old battery on the bluff was a part of the
original Carillon built by the French in 1755.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Back on the higher grounds are the barrack walls,
trenches, bastions, and a bomb-proof room, which
some authorities say was the magazine, while
others contend that it was the humble but equally
necessary bakery. On the east, by the side of the
road, is the old fort well. Leading from the south-
east corner of the parade toward this old well,
is the covered way, through which Ethan Allen went
in the gray of the morning, in 1775. On the west is
Mount Defiance. Between it and the fort the outlet
of Lake George enters Lake Champlain. At the
southeast, the lake is
narrowed down h\ ^.x'^^'fC OND^^
the near approach y^^S^
of Mount Jnde ' >^^^
pendence, //iS
which was
also forti-
fied while
St. Claire
held com-
m a nd ;
between
the two
points
ran the
chain, or
float i n g,
bridge
The lake
here turns
toward the
north, thus wash
ing three sides of
the promontory.

THE ADIRONDACKS

The Old Fort and Garrison grounds consisting
of about 700 acres were ceded by thie state toward
the close of the century to Columbia and Union
Colleges, and in 1818 purchased by William Pell,
the great-grandfather of the present owner, Ste-
phen H. P. Pell. Efforts have been repeatedly
made to interest both the state and national gov-
ernments in the care of the old fort, the owners
expressing a willingness to sell at a nominal
price if the preservation could be guaranteed,
but in vain. They have now undertaken the res-
toration of the old building as nearly on original
lines as can be determined.

Larrabee's Point is on the Vermont shore, a
mile north of the ruins. For hotel see page 198.

Grrwn Point Landing is 11 miles north of Fort
Ticonderoga.

Crown Point Ruins are six miles north of Crown
Point landing. The lake is here narrowed down by

APPPOACHSNG CROWN POINT RUINS FROM THH SOUTH.

I Crown Point Light Mouse ; 2 Port Henry ; 3 Chimney Foint.

che land extending from the west on which the nana
stand, its easternmo! point marked by 0 stone light-
h-^use. Chimney Poi^it approaches from the east side.
Beyond the light-house, at the narrowest place in the
jiassage, are the scarcely visible remains of Fort ^X.
Frederick, b'lilt by the French in 1731. Crown Point

m€^;''-'<iU^

, ^J

/x./'l; .;i/;/,

THE ADIRONDACKS

Fort standing over toward the west was commenced
by Amherst in 1759, and completed at an expense of
over ten million dollars. The extensive earth-works,
and the a\ ails of the barracks, still in a good state 0/
pieservation,

indicate the ,.■■■ ,,,, ,, ,. m ., iiimim in< w ui'^id ^

strength and ITrfl^^TIEIK3?F
extent of the
fortification —
from which,
however, n o
gun was ever
fired at an
a p proaching
foe. Dr. Bix-
by designates
the shores of
the peninsula
west of the
ruins as the
probable site
of C h a m -
plain's battle
with the Iro-
cuoioin i6oa- _

In absence of positive proof there is much his-
torical evidence to indicate that the battle did
really occur here. No historic point on the lake
is thrust forward "from the west shore" into more
unavoidable prominence.

The land on which the ruins stand, 25 acres in
extent, was presented to the State in 1910 by
Witherbee^ Sherman & Co., of Port Henry, to be
held forever as public property.

The Champlain Memorial is being erected here
at the extremity of the point. It takes the form
of a monumental light house, built jointly by the
States of Vermont and New York. A heroic statue
of Champlain in bronze faces the east and in the

m-^m?:-

m/'. :^:V#^S5"rf'' ' '€W^^

t^Bm^^^

^W '"'^ ""^

THE RED ROCKS OF WILLSBOROUGH.

THE ADIRONDACKS 33

base is Rodin's symbolic "La France," which was
presented by France to the United States and
installed with becoming ceremonies by a dis-
tinguished company of citizens of our sister Re-
public, who came over the ocean for that purpose.
The Monument is a fitting memorial to the dis-
cover, who gave his name to the noble lake.

Port Henry, two miles northwest of Crown
Point Ruins, is exceedingly picturesque, with a
number of elegant private residences, occupied
by the iron magnates of that section.

The Lee House is an excellent hotel. J. E. Mc-
Nulty, proprietor. Rates $2-$3 per day. Open all
the year. Free bus to trains.

The G. R. Sherman, steam ferry boat, runs six
round trips daily (4 trips Sundays) through the
summer months between Port Henry and Chim-
ney Point on the Vermont shore, landing at Fort
Frederick on signal. Boat leaves Port Henry at
7.30 a. m. and Chimney Point at 8, and at two-
hour intervals thereafter. Fare for automobiles
or double teams, with driver, between points, 65
cents; single horse 40 cents; for the single pas-
senger, 15 cents.

*******

The Lake Champlain and Moriah R. R. is seven
miles long, extending from Port Henry to the ore
beds at Mineville 1,300 feet above. The grade at
one point is 256 1-2 feet to the mile. The aver-
age is 211 feet. It contains three "Y's," where
the nature of the ascent renders a curve imprac-
ticable.

'Moriah is two miles west of Port Henry (Hotel
Sherman). Schroon River is 17 miles (Carson's);
thence west to N ewcomb (36 miles) and to Long
Lake, a total of 50 miles. Stage daily, Sundays
excepted.

THE ADIRONDACKS

Westport is a pretty little village, on a deep bay,
setting into the western shore of Northwest
bay, 25 miles north of Fort Ticonderoga and 40
miles south of Plattsbuurg. It is a favorite gate-
way into Elizabethtown and Keenc Valley and
possesses in its broader environment attractions
that recommend it to the summer visitor above
most interior resorts.

The Westport Inn strands on the brow of an ab-
rupt eminence a hundred feet above the lake and
overlooks a tennis lawn shaded by fine elms, the
picturesque steamboat landing, the great sweep-
ing ampitheatre of hillside leading away to right
and left, the circling shore of the bay and the
beautiful chain of Green Mountains across in
Vermont. Tlie house has broad piazzas and is
neat and well furnished from basement to belve-
dere. It has cozy parlors and dining-room, with
large open fire-places. The table is superior and
the service most efficient. There are bath rooms
and perfect drainage. Water comes from a won-
derful mountain spring 500 feet above the lake. A

number o f

detached cot-
tages add to
the attrac-
tions, fur-
nishing alto-
gether ac-
commoda-
tions for 150
guests. Golf
links on rolling ground afford an excellent course
with interesting hazards. Good boating and fish-
ing facilities and bathing places with fine bot

THE ADIRONDACKS 35

torn, and convenient bath houses, are here.
The golf club house has billiard and pool
tables and a shower bath. There are two
small steamers and a launch for rent. The Cham-
plain steamers touch four times each day at the
wharf at the foot of the grove. Excursions by
these steamers, running at convenient hours, are
popular. Long distance telephone and W. U. tele-
graph in the house. H. P. Smith, who has been
connected with the Inn since its opening, is man-
ager. Mr. Smith is also manager of "The Foot-
hills," Nordhoff, Southern California.

Glenwocd Inn. at the north edge of the village,
spreads an exceptionally good and wholesome
table. Rates $2 per day. Special on application.
John L. Sherman, proprietor. It has most of the
commercial travel and is open all the year. Free
carriage to station.

The Westport, a small house at the station,
should not be confounded with "The Westport
Inn," mentioned above.

The Elizabethtown Terminal Railroad, extend-
ing from Westport station to Elizabethtown, 7
miles distant, is now under construction to be
ready for traffic late in the season. Transfer is
now by auto-stage and private conveyance.

A small propeller runs from Westport to Ver-
gennes daily, on arrival of steamer Vermont from
the south, returning in the morning to connect
with the south-bound boat.

Split Rock Mountain extends along the west
shore, terminating in a sharp point 8 miles north
of Westport. Barn Rock (a corruption probably of
Barren Rock) shows the upturned edges of strata
lying at a sharp angle with the surface in a bold

36 THE ADIRONDACKS

little way north, are grand perpendicular cliffs.
Rock Harbor, a mile further north, shows an
"effort," where Gotham's one time Boss, Tweed,
tried his hand at digging ore. Grog Harbor — a
charming litle cove despite its name — is near the
northern end of Split Rock Mountain.

Split Rock is at the northern end of the

f PUT ROCK FROM THE NORTH.

I Grand View Mt., Vt. ; 2 Split Rock Li^t; \ Split Rock.

mountain bearing the same name. In the uncer-
tain records of old Indian treaties, it is claimed
that this rock marked the boundry line between
the tribes of the St. Lawrence and those of the
Mohawk Valley.

Otter Creek enters the lake from the east some-
thing over five miles north of Westport. This is
the longest river in Vermont and is navigable to
Vergennes whose spires may be seen some dis-
tance inland. Fort Cassin stood at the mouth of
Otter Creek. Bits of the ruins are still visible.
Within the creek a portion of the American
squadron was fitted out in 1814, which, under
Commodore McDonough defeated the British Com-
modore Downie, at Plattsburgh, in September of
that year.

Vergennes is eight miles back from the lake ap
Otter Creek runs, although in an air line but lit

THE ADIRONDACKS 37

tie more than half that distance. It is one of the
oldest cities in New England, chartered in 1788.
It is also the smallest incorporated city in the
country. The city limits include an area of 1 l-4x
1 1-2 miles.

Essex, a small vilage on the west shore, is 10
miles north of Westport. The Boquet river emp-
ties into the lake four miles north of Essex land-
ing. It is navigable for about a mile. It was a
rendezvous of Burgoyne's flotilla, in the advance on
Ticonderoga, in 1777, and in 1812 was entered by
British gunboats to work the destruction of the
little village of Willsborough, a mile inland.

Willsborough Point, a low peninsula about four
miles long by one wide, separates Willsborough
Bay from the main lake.

The Four Brothers are near the middle of the
lake east of Willsborough Point. Here occurred
the running engagement between Benedict Ar-
nold and Captain Pringle, in 1776, in which the
English were victorious. Junip<?r Island is north-
east of the Brothers surmounted by a lighthouse.

After leaving Essex Landing the boat passes
the Vermont side in the approach to Burlington.
Back inland are the two highest peaks of the
Green Mountains— Mansfield, 4,360 feet above the
tide, and Camel's Hump, the Leon Couchant of
the French.

Shelburne Harbor is east of Bottler's Point.
Here are the shipyards of the Champlaiu
Transportation Company. It 1*=? worthy of note
that but one year after Robert Fulton's steamboat
was launchel on the Hudson River a steamboat
was launched at Burlington. It could run five
miles an hour without heating the shaft!

38 THE ADIRONDACKS

Rock Dunder is a prominent ooject, as we near
Burlington. It is a sharp cone, 20 feet high,
above water, believed by Winslow C. Watson, the
historian, to be the famous "Rock Regio" so fre-
quently mentioned in colonial records.

Burlington is a city of nearly 25,000 inhabitants,
SO miles north of Whitehap. Burlington has
quite an extensive lumber market and also a var-
ied line of manufacturing interests, including cot-
ton and woolen textiles, refrigerators, chairs,
screens, blinds, doors, sash and machinery. Two
railroads center here, the Portland and the Cen-
tral Vermont. Direct train service is had with
noted eastern mountain and coast resorts. The
distance from Burlington to Montreal to 95 miles;
to Fabyans, 120; to Portland, 211; to Lake Win-
nipesaukee, 140, to Concord, 174; to Boston, 230.

The Champlain Transportation Company oper-
ating the lake steamers has its general office here.

The steamer "Ticonderoga" was built in
1906, is in service from April to December each
year, and during the season of summer tourist
travel, June to September, operates a round trip
betwen Westport and St. Albans Bay each day,
touching at Burlington, Port Kent, Plattsburg and
the Islands.

The "Ticonderoga" is 220 feet long, 57 feet 9
inch beam over all, hull of steel, with three water
tight bulkheads, steered and heated by steam, and
lighted by electricity; is a modern, up-to-date ves-
sel in every respect, and is in construction very
similar to the "Sagamore" on Lake George.

The steamer "Chateaugay" is in service June
15 to September 15 each year, and is employed in

THE ADIRONDACKS 39

handling excursion traffic during the summer
months, and on Mondays and Saturdays performs
regular service between Burlington and St. Al-
bans Bay.

The Lake Champlain Club has a conven-
ient club house a little way north of the steam-
boat landing,

Clochester Point reaches half way out across
the broad lake north of Burlington, and still fur-
ther west are Clochester reefs and light-house — a
blood-red light marking the outermost rock at
night.

Port Kent is on the west shore of the lake 10
miles from Burlington.

Trembleu Hall on the high land a half mile
north of the station, is most attractive. Capacity
125. Farrell & Agate, proprietors. Rates $3.00
to $4 per day, $15.75 to $21 per week. Free car-
riages to trains and boats.

Farrell of Trembleau receives you at the sta-
tion with glowing face and official cap, a genial,
big bodied reception committee, jovially pleased
to meet you. Mrs. Adgate's welcome at the Hall
though quiet, is equally cordial. At once you feel
at home with the freedom of the .unwatched.
There is no suggestion here of hand out-stretched
with upturned palm. There is no thought of lock-
ed doors or barred preserves. The place is yours
to occupy in comfort. The houuse stands on high
land overlooking the lake, surrounded by locust
and maple trees with stately Lombardy populars,
lawn is like velvet, the walks gleaming white as

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THE ADIRONDACKS 41

they run to various points. The table is whole-
some abundant, cleanly and with pleasing ser-
vice. A. broad piazza and rustic summer house
are available for lounging. Open tire places are in
the public rooms, electric lights throughout in
public and private places. It has modern plumb-
ing and sanitary appliances. A feature of peren-
nial interest to young and old who enjoy the piano,
the dancing, the amateur theatricals and the
games which are liable to last far into the night,
is the casino removed some distance from the
main building. For meditation is the open grove
of thrifty pines on high ground backward from the
house, where the ground is carpeted with the
brown needles. For excursions a gentle climb
may be had to the top of Trembleau Mountain at
the south, or a walk to the mouth of the Au Sable
River at the north, or a trip to Au Sable Chasm,
three miles away, by the electric car which runs
at convenient intervals — this last being one of
the essentials of the day and place.

The K. AuS. C. & L. C. R. R. runs from Port
Kent, passing over AuSable Chasm (3 miles) near
its head, affording a good view of Rainbow Falls
and continjing 2 miles further reaches Keese-
ville, the end of the road. At Au Sable Chasm
Station 'busses are taken (25 cents round trip) for
Hotel AuSable Chasm ($4 up per day). Accom-
modations are here in house and cottages for 200,
A large share of the patronage of the house is in
excursion parties. House and chasm are owned
by stock company. Thos. F. Quinlan, Manager.

Au Sable Chasm affords a fine illustration of
rock fracture and erosion. Admission is gained
through the lodge, a picturesque octagonal build-

gpSi OFFICE]

tOOKOUT

TO KESviLtr

THE ADIRONDACKS 49

ing near its head. Entrance fee, 75 cents. The
boat ride is 50 cents additional, including car-
riage back to hotel or station. Large parties are
admitted at reduced rates. Guides are unneces-
sary, as guide-boards and signs call attention to
notable places. The chasm is something over a
mile in length from Rainbow Falls to the Basin,
and upwards of a hundred feet in depth, the en-
closing walls at points rising vertically from the
water.

Returning to the steamer, we see, three miles
north of the landing at Port Kent, the sandy
mouth of the Au Sable river. "Au Sable means
"of sand." Across from this point is the widest
uninterrupted portion of the lake, the distance
being nearly eleven miles.

Valcour Island is about six miles north of Port
Kent, the steamer passing between it and the
main land on the west. Here October 11, 1776,
the first naval engagement of the Revolution oc-
curred, between the British, under command of
Captain Thomas Pringle, and the Americans un-
der Benedict Arnold. The American fleet was de-
stroyed. The wreck of the "Royal Savage" lies
under water at the south end of Valcour Island.
In this engagement, although defeated, Arnold ac-
quitted himself in such a manner as to win the
admiration of his enemies and the approval of
his superior officers.

Benedict Arnold was born in Norwich, Conn.,
January 3d, 1741, and died in London, June 14,
1801. As a youth, turbulent; as a soldier, am-
bitious and bold to rashness. Jealous of his fel-
low officers, the in niltion from discontented
rebel to infamous traitor was easy. A brilliant
commander — his fall was like that of Lucifer.

THE ADIRONDACKS 51

Hotel Cha:nplain, the new (rebuilt), is situat-
ed on a lofty bluff on the west shore of Lake
Champlain overlooking a mighty expanse of water
on the east and north and south, and westward
a far reaching plain of checkered field and forest
that vanishes into blue w'here the Adirondacks
in a great panorama of separated mountain peaks
rise up beyond. With no near mountain heights
to dwarf its own strosg setting Bluff Point com-
mands scenes wonderfully varied yet restful to a
degree that few places can approach.

Valcour Island lies below like a garden border-
ed with its varying belt of shrubbery. Beyond
dotted here and there with islands, stretches the
broad lake to the sihores of Vermont, the Green
Mountains beyond rising into the heights of Cam-
el's Hump and Mount Mansfield. North and east
are Grand' Isle and the Great Back Bay; at the
north, Cumberland Head, the sweeping circle of
Plattsburg Bay, where occurred that splendid
naval battle of 1814, ( — the last, as tre battle
of Valcour, 1775, was the first, with the mother
country—) and nearer, the little island where
sleep the dead of that eventful day.

Surrounding the hotel is a wooded park of
eight hundred acres traversed by winding drives
and shaded walks, with rustic seats and pavilions
at notable view-points. A number of commodious
cottages subject to special assignment of guests
are scattered about on the grounds. A wide
sand ybeach — the Beach of the "Singing Sands" —
extends along the lake shore v/ith bathing houses,
boat house, etc. Tennis court (with dirt floor)
is on the lawn in front of the house on the west.

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THE ADIRONDACKS 55

Along the lake shore toward the south, and ex-
tending over rolling country westward is an
eighteen-hole golf course with commodious club
house. This course has been recently greatly
improved and extended, and is a prime favorite
among discriminating players.

The new hotel is furnished in Louis XVI style
and in its equipment combines every modern
conveuience and is believed to be entirely fire-
proof. It will open for the season of 1912 under
the personal management of Mortimer M, Kelly.
Address for reservations or particulars here dur-
ing the season. See page 199.

Cliff Haven, site of the Champlain Summer
School, is just north of Bluff Point — in summer a
busy village and a center of intellectual advance.

isle San Michel (of old called Crab Island) is
the burial place of the sailors and marines who
fell in the battle of Plattsburgh. North of this,
and projecting well out across the lake, is Cum-
berland Head, from which the shore recedes to-
ward the north and west, then comes back In a
wirV sweep, embracing Cumberland Bay.

The Battle of Plattsburgh took place here in
1814. Stripped of detail, the account of this de-
cisive battle is as follows: On Sabbath morning,
September 11th, 1814, the American 'and forces
under General McComb, and the American fleet
under Commodore Macdonough, were simultane-
ously attacked by the British land and water
forces, under General Sir George Provost and
Commodore Downie. The engagement resulted

THE ADIRONDACKS

in a complete victory for the Americans, only a
few small boats of the enemy effecting a success-
ful retreat. The British also lost immense stores,
abandoned in their retreat — which served them
right for breaking the Sabbath.

The Barracks, occupied by several companies of
soldiers forming a regular U. S. Army post, are
near the lake shore, about a mile south of Platts-
burgh

Plattsburg, on thewest shore of Cumberland Bay,
is a thriving city of 8.000 inhabitants. It is of con-
siderable commercial importance, being on the
direct line between New York and Montreal, 311
miles from the former and 74 miles from the latter.

"Plattsbu r g
iS thorough-
Jj cosmopol-
itan, with
aD opinion
to cffer GJ
every ques-
tion of the
day, exert-
ing no mean
Influence
through its
wide-awa k e
daily news-
papers and
its notable
weekly, the
Platts burg
Republican"
— instituted
in 1811 — and notwithstanding its age, one of the
most reliable and ably conducted Democratic

THE ADIRONDACKS 57

weeklies in the State. The town has numerous

churches, high and graded schools, State Normal
School

The First Settler in tliis region was Count
Charles de Fredenbnrgh. a captain in the English
army. The wararnt conveying the land to him bore
date June 11, 1769. The property reverting to the
state after the Revolution, was granted in 1784, to
Zephaniah Piatt and others, and incorporated into
the town of Plattsburgh. April 4, 1785. A company
was then organized which, in .June of the same
year, erected a mill a Fredenburgh Falls. The es-
timate of expense contained, among other items,
the following: "For bread, $65; for rum, $80."
They used a great deal of bread in those days. In
the year 1800 Plattsburg possessed a population of
less than 300. Within the county limits were own-
ed at this time 58 slaves

The Fouquet House is convenient to the sta
don and very desirable as a stopover place for
tnose entering or coming from the wilderness to
lake trains or boats north or south. It was fa-
mous of old under the Fouquet's, father and son,
and advertised so extensively abroad that for-
eigners gained the impression it was about the
only way by which the Adirondacks could be
reached. Now it has become the property of R.
J. Clark of the New Cumberland, and by him
thoroughly renovated, repaired and fitted with
modern conveniences, and necessary luxuries, and
takes its place again as an important feature in
the approach to the great North Woods. Tran-
sient rates $3.00 and up per day, with special
rates for families or extended stay.

THE ADIRONDACKS 59

The New Cumberland is on the main street and
leads as the commercial hotel. It has electric
elevator, steam heat and electric lights. Rates,
$2.50.

The Witherell Hotel is a fine house, with an ex-
cellent reputation. W . H. Howell, proprietor.
Rates, $2.50 up. It has a grill room and caters
acceptably to automobile tourists.

It is quite the correct thing for parties bound
south over Lake Champlain, arriving in Platts-
burg at night, to go aboard the steamer "Ver-
mont," where excellent accommodations are pro-
vided, and rise and breakfast at their leisure after
the boat leaves her dock in the morning.

Cumberland Head, near which occurred the
naval battle of 1814, is three miles from Platts-
burgh. Continuing rorihward the west shore is
low but picturesque in iis irregular line of deep
bays and projectirg points, but of little interest
hisLoiically except for the old fort that once stood
on Point au Fer, built, according to the best au-
thorities, in 1774, and the still older one, Fort St.
Anne, on Isle La Motte, built in 1660.

Rouse's Point, according to the United States
Coast Survey, is about 107 miles north of Whitehall.
It is a place ofconsiderable commercial interest, and
the most important port of entry on the frontier.

^ Vi I 1, ^ 7 i

GATEWAY

NUMBER

ONE

CHAPTER IV.

Into the Northwest Lake Region via the

Branch of the Delaware and

Hudson Kaileoad.

Gateway No. I leads from Plattsburg into the
Great Northwest Lake Region over the Chat-
eaugay Branch of the Delaware & Hudson, divid-
ing the patronage of the central and westerly
resorts with Gateway No. 9.

The first section of the railroad was built by
the State from Plattsburg to Clinton Prison, at
Dannemora, 17 miles. In 1880 the road was ex-
tended to Lyon Mountain, 17 miles further; but
the influx of Adirondack tourists was increasing,
and the road that climbed an altitude of 2,000 feet
to reach the iron mines of Lyon Mountain, must go
farther into the wilderness. So it was extended
to Loon Lake. In 1888, 19 miles were added, bring-
ing it to Saranac Lake, distributing its passengers
by various stage routes that branch from it to a
score or more of summer hotels. By it tourists
reach Chazy, Chateaugay,Loon, Rainbow, St. Regis,
Upper and Lower Saranac Lakes, Ray Brook and
Lake Placid, going to Cascade Lakes and Adirondack
Lodge by stage. Sleeping cars run through from
New York to Lake Placid without change.

64 THE ADIRONDACKS.

Through cars leaving New York in the morning
arrive at Saranac Lake and Lake Placid in the
evening, enabling passengers to take the stage
ride from the railroad to the various hotels in
the cool of the day. Drawing-room cars are run
on through trains. Sleeping and drawing-room
car accommodations can be secured, in advance
at any of the stations.

Dannemora is 17 miles from and 1,300 feet above
Plattsburg. Clinton prison is situated here, and
affords a quiet home for a number of people of
leisure, who pass their time in meditation, mak-
ing clothing, and other congenial pursuits. From
Dannemora, the road swings westerly, around the
south side of .Johnson Mountain, then north, near
the west shore of Chazy Lake, then west, and
southerly to the mines at Lyon Mountain, run-
ning 17 miles to reach a point nine miles distant
in a straight line.

Chazy Lake is nearly four miles long and one
mile wide. It has three hotels, Lake View House,
capacity 30; Maple View Cottage, capacity 12,
both at the south end of the lake near the rail-
road station; and Chazy Lake House, near the
north end of the lake, which may be reached by
row-boat from Chazy Lake station or by carriage
from Dannemora.

Lyon Mountain is the center of the iron-mining
operations of the Chateaugay Ore & Iron Co.
Practically inexhaustible beds of magnetic iron ore
exist here and extensive mining operations were
carried on until fire destroyed the main works
and building ceased. Blast furnaces for smelting
the ore are at Standish, five miles distant. The
ouality of this ore is so good that the old Catalan

THE ADIROXDACKS.

AAAP OF

Forge method of making blooms was in operation
until quite recently. A price of $125 has "jeen
paid per ton for this iron. A part of a day can
be spent here profitably inspecting the mines.
Ordinarily it is not a pleasure seeker's resort.
Passengers are conveyed from Lyon Mountain sta-
tion by stage to resorts on the Upper and Lower
Chateaugay Lakes.

Upper Chateaugay Lake is about four miles in
length and one broad. It empties at the north into
the Lower Lake, which
is somewhat smaller
than the upper. It is
picturesque with sur-
rounding mountains
and rugged shores. It
is reached by stage from
Lyon Mountain, 4miles,
and from Chateaugay
Station on the O. & L.
C. R. R. by an 8-mile
stage ride and by con-
necting boat through
the lower lake and nar-
rows. It has a number
of summer hotels and
eottage-camps on its
shore's. The smaller game birds and water fowl are
here in their season, squirrels and foxes abound, and
deer and bear are not uncommon additions to the list
of the killed. A Small Steamboat runs through
the lower and upper lakes, landing at all camps
and hotels. Fare 50 cents. An excursion down the
winding stream that connects the two lakes brings to
view at intervals a section of country tkat has been
*ong settled

66 THE ADIRONDACKS.

Morrison's (formerly Ralph's) is on the
east shore 3 1-2 miles from Lyon Mountain, with
capacity in hotel cottages for about 150 guests.
It has telegraph office and two mails daily. Stage
to all trains at Lyon Mountain; fare 75 cents.
Rates $2 to $3 per day; $12 to $20 per week. An-
drew and Thomas A. Morrison, proprietors.

Indian Point House is on the west side of the
lake near its south end; capacity about 40 guests.
For rates apply. R. M. Shutts, proprietor. Post-
office address, Merrill's, N. Y. Fare to railroad,
$1.25.

Merrill's (P. O. and Telephone) is near the
outlet at the north end of the lake, 4 miles from
Lyon Mountain station. Stage 75 cents.

The Merrill House has capacity for about 60.
Oliver Young, proprietor.

Lower Chateaugay Lake is about 2 1-2 miles in
length, and less than a mile in width, with nice
shores and sloping hills on either side. It is
reached from the Upper Lake by a winding stream
four miles in length, through which the Ittle
steamer runs.

The Banner House, on the east side near the
north end of the lake, will provide for 75 guests
in house and adjoining cottages. J. S. Kirby, pro-
prietor. Postoffice, Bannerhouse. Rates $2 to
$2.50 day; $10 to $15 week.

Chateaugay (gateway No. 16, station on the O.
& L. C. R. R. 45 miles west of Rouse's Point), is 8
miles north of Lower Chateaugay Lake on the
Chateaugay river, which continues northward to
the St. Lawrence. It is a thriving village of about
700 population.

Chateaugay Chasm, li^ miles north of the
station, rivals Ausable Chasm in many respects,

THE ADIRONDACKS. 67

and deserves to rank among the wonders of the
Adirondack region.

Returning to Lyon Mountain we swing around
its west side, getting a beautiful and comprehen-
sive view of Chateaugay Lake where the woods
have been cut away for that purpose. Then
come forge and coal-kilns, beyond which, wind-
ing west and south, the road penetrates a wild
and interesting section of wilderness, until Loon
Lake is reached.

Loon Lake extends south from the station, and
is about two and a half miles long. It is an ex-
tremely pretty sheet, with high banks and irre-
gular shores.

Loon Lake House stands at its south end on a
high ridge, which, like the rim of some wide-
mouthed volcano, holds the lake within its circl-
ing walls, while beyond the land drops
rapidly down into the deep valley of the Saranac,
The house and cottages has capacity for 350
guests. TTie accomodations are superior and the
table above criticism. Of couurse such service as
is found here costs money, concerning which, ad-
dress Loon Lake Company, Loon Lake, N. Y.
Automobiles meet all trains at the station. Fare
75c.

Here the Adirondack Division of the N. Y. C.
parallels the D. & H. line and the two run to-
gether for some distance south then gradually
draw apart, the D. & H. continuing south, the
Central swinging westerly. Lake Kushaqua is
4 miles south of Loon Lake Station.

68-70 THE ADIRONDACKS.

Bloomingdale is 66 miles from Plattsburg, a
quiet little town with Whiteface Mountain, the
saliant feature on the east.

The Sanatorium Gabriels is on "Sunset Mount"
overlooking Lucretia Lake and Gabriels Sta-
tion, on the Adirondack Division of the New York
Central. It was opened in 1897. A group of sub-
stantial cottages surround the larger Administra-
tion Building. Patients suffering from lung trou-
bles, who are pronounced curable by competent
authority, are eligible. There is no discrimination
on account of race or creed. Itis in charge of the
Sisters of Mercy, who may be addressed at Gab-
riels, N. Y.

"Forest Leaves," a woodsy little magazine, is
published here puarterly. Its cover is a dream
its contents of gentle, wholesome character, sug-
gested by its title and its cost is only one dollar

Paul Smith's is on Lower St. Regis Lake, 7
miles west of Bloomingdale station and 5 miles
north of Lake Clear Junction from which a spur
runs direct to the hotel. Paul Smith came
here in 1861 and built a small house for the accom-
modation of sportsmen. It soon became a favor-
ite fishing and hunting resort, and grew rapidly
in bulk and popularity. It is still much visited
for sport and leads as a fashionable resort. Par-
lor and sleeping cars run through to New York
over the Adirondack Div. N. Y. C. R. R.
a year.

Lower St. Regis Lake is about two miles long
by one broad, and discharges west through the
middle branch of the St. Regis River. It is about

THE ADIRONDACKS. 71

1,600 feet above tide. The only elevation of note
in this section is St. Regis Mountain, 1,265 feet
above the lake. From its summit a beautiful
view of the lake district is obtainable, showing
over fifty different bodies of water.

Lake Clear is prominent as seen from the moun-
tain— a broad sheet of water in the southeast
about five miles distant with open country and
cultivated farms beyond. On its east is Lake
Clear Junction, where the railroad from Saranac
Lake and Paul Smith's electric spur from the
north joins the main line of the Adirondack Cen-
tral between New York and Montreal.

Lake Clear Inn is on the north shore of the lake
along which runs a road which, continuing,
plunges into the wild woods beyond only to
emerge again at Paul Smith's famous old place.
This house is now under the management of C. H.
Wardner, who for so long a time made Rustic
Lodge on the Upper Saranac a place of welcome,
and old patrons will recognize in the rustic cabins
standing about the main house a number which
once flanked the old Lodge at Indian Carry and
which during the winter were moved bodily over
the ice to their present quarters. Mr. Wardner is
competent, painstaking and obliging and his fare
is wholesome and to be commended. That he is
appreciated is evidenced in the fact that many of

72 THE ADIRONDACKS.

his old guests will follow him to his larger ven-
ture here-. Transient rates are $2.00 per day;
$10.00 to $15.00 per week,^ with special price for
continued stay, for which address Lake Clear.
See page 267.

Malone (gateway 15) is 57 miles west of Rouses
Point. It is the county seat of Franklin county,
and a thoroughly wide awake town. The Rut-
land Railroad extending east and west is here
crossed by the Adirondack division of the N, Y.
Central and St Lawrence line running to Ottawa
and Montreal.

The Howard House, S. J. & J. A. Flanagan, is
an excellent house and the best in this section.
Rates $2.50 up per day.

Lake Meacham is 25 miles south of Malone.
It is a beautiful sheet of water, 3 miles long,
outleting through the east branch of the St.
Regis river. The Lake Meacham House, sit-
uated at the north end accomodates about 100.
Rates $3 up per day. George Cushman, Manager.

Continuing south 12 miles leads over a good
forest road to Paul Smith's Hotel.

Lake Titus lies 8 miles south of Malon, away
from all railways. The roaads are good and the
drive from Malone can be made in one hour. This
lake is 2 1-2 miles long by 1-2 mile wide, situated
in the heart of ragged mountains, at an elevation
of 1,450 feet above sea level.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 73

Mount Immortelle, at south end of Lake Titus,
commands a view of the entire lake with a broadi
expanse of sloping mountain side around. This
was, of old, quite noted hunting ground. It has
lost none of its popularity of late for the increase
of deer under existing laws is noticeable here as
in many other portions of the Adirondacks, and
the fashionable crowd have not come to crowd
out those who delight in the chase. Hotel Ayres
is on the north end of Duane Lake, 3 miles south

* * * * * * * *

SARANAC LAKE (village) is 73 miles from
Plattsburg. It is a hustling town of 4,500 in-
habitants and thoroughly wide awake to its own
prosperity. It has five churches, a graded school,
water supply for street, dwellings and hotels,,
sewers, electric lights, a live weekly newspaper
— "The Adirondack Enterprise," general tele-
graphic and telephonic communication with the-
outer world, stores to meet all needs, and metro-
politan in tendencies with a healthy flavoring of
the wild west. It lies in the valley. Around it
are protecting hills, farther back the mountains.
Between the hills run valleys from north, east
and south, uniting here so that it is approached by
level roads, winding through the lowlands from
either side. It shows a picturesque blending of
the primitive forms of old times with the swell
structures of prosperous later days that have
come since it went forth that here was the health
centre of the wilderness.

The Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium is a practi-
cal application of the good to be had here. It is
a mile below (north of) the village, on a bluff,
commanding a grand mountain view north
and east, and well protected from the prevailing
western wind. It was opened for patients Feb-

7 4 THE ADIROXDACKS.

ruary 1. 1SS5. with accommodations for 9 patients.
It row has capacity for over ore hundred. It is
not intended as an asylum for hopeless cases, but
to put within reach of sufferers from incipient
pulmonary complaints, whose means are limited,
the advantage to be derived from the Adirondack
climate, a simple, out-of-doors life, and good

hygienic, surroundings, with suitable medical treat-
ment. There is a handsome central building, con-
taining dining-room, offices, etc., and outlaying cot-
tages, accommodating 2 to 9 patients each. A
charge of $5.00 per week is made for each. This
is below actual cost pro rata, but the deficiency
is made up by annual subscriptions. The insti-
tution is under the immediate supervision of the
veteran specialist. Dr. E. L. Trudeau, whose ex-
perience has made him a strong advocate of the
systematic open-air treatment of consumptives

THE ADIRONDACKS 75

which is carrier! out at the irstitiition in mosi
cases. A characteristic scene in mid-winter is
of patients swathed in wrappers on the piazzas,
in comfortable steamer chairs, chatting or reading,
or engaged in such light occupation as may be
possible with thickly gloved fingers, remaining
out in what may be called bad weather even,
from early morning until night, except during the
intervals taken for meals. Others drive, muffled
in furs, or where strength permits — thickly clad
and well protected from the cold — indudging in
tramps through the woods or over the hills on
snow shoes. It is not uncommon for patients to
sleep out of doors throughout the entire winter
in which case they are put in wheeled beds in-
doors and then pushed out on the sheltered piazzas
covered to the nose with thick blankets to tempt
the almost arctic cold of the winter's night. Many
have indulged in this heroic treatment and been
benefitted. During the summer it is the common
practice to sleep in their cots on the cottage
piazzas, protected from predatory gnats and mos-
quitoes by netting stretched overhead on frames,
presenting something the appearance in miniature
of the "Prairie-schooner" of the plains.

The unfortunate rich are not admitted. The
medical examiners are as follows: For New
York City, Dr. Edward G. Janeway, Dr. W. B.
James, Dr. H. P. Loomis and Dr. James Miller.
For Philadelphia, Dr. J. C. Wilson. For Baltimore,
Dt. H. M. Thomas. For Boston, Dr. F. H. Wil-
liams. For Saranac Lake, Dr. E. L. Trudeau, Dr.
E. R. Baldwin, Dr. Charles C. Trembley and Dr.
Lawrason Brown, resident physician.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 77

"The Journal of the Outdoor Life," a monthly
magazine, is published at the Sanitarium and
contains articles by the leading lung specialists.

The Winter Carnivals held here annually, are be-
coming world-famous. Skating, skiing, snow-shoe-
irg, sleighing tobogganing and hockey are im-
mensely popular during the colder seasons. The
Pontiac Club, with its cozy house and skating rink,
adds to the sociability among the winter residents
and the town presents fully as gay an appearance
in January as in July.

Railroad service is excellent. Trains leaving
in the morning reach New York early in the even-
ing. Evening trains have sleeping cars attached
running through to New York either by the Chat-
eaugay division of the D. & H. via Lake Cham-
plain and Saratoga or by the Adirondack division
of the New York Central via the west side of the
wilderness. "--v

The Berkeley is in the center of the village, *
with accommodations for 75 guests. A. B. Robin-
son, long time in active management, is now pro-
prietor. Mr. Robinson is thorough and progres-
sive. The table is superior. Public rooms are
bright and cheery. Rooms en suite. A
handsome grille room a la carte — a modern inno-
vation in Adirondack hotels — and private dining
room for special events are among the new feat-
ures. The Berkeley is open all the year and well

78 THE ADIRONDACKS

patronized by commercial as well as pleasure
travel. Telegraph and long distance phones in the
house. Rates $2.50 to $4.00 per day; $15.00 up
per week. See page 263.

Fowler's Livery, near the Berkeley, furnishes
the best of service at a fair price. Advertisement
on page 276.

The Riverside Inn faces the main street of the
village, its east front looking out on Lake Flower
to which the hotel grounds extend. Pine & Cor-

THE RIVERSIDE

bett, proprietors. The Inn is modern, attractive
and handsomely equipped. Rates $2.50 to $4 per
day. Per week, $15 to $28. Open all the year.

Riverside Garage, just east of the Inn, is
up-to-date in expert mechanics and appliances.
Autoists will here find tires, gas and oils and
cars for hire on occasion. Smith Brothers, Pro-
prietors.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 79

The Lower Saranac (Lake) is l^^ miles from
Saranac Lake village. It is a little less than five
miles long by oqe a'.:!d a quarter wide. It is sep-
rated into several natural divisions by outspread-
ing peninsulas and chain-like groups of islands,
there being of the latter (counting as such several
huge rocks) one for every week in che year. There
are a number of private cottages and camps on
its shores varying from the expensive rustic coun-
try place to the rude but comfortable log and bark
affair while on its islands, during the summer the
white tent and occasional bough house are to be
found, filled with jolly invalids or sportsmen.

The Algonquin has a most attractive location on
high, open ground on the east side of Saranac
Lake. It commands an extended view of the
broad lake with its islands and the shores beyond.
John Harding, proprietor.

The Inlet is a winding, lily-flecked stream about
two miles long, bringing the water from the Mid-
dle Saranac. At the Rapids, midway between the
lakes, is a lock.

Middle Snranac Lake Is about two and one-half
miles in diameter. It contains several rocky
islands. The shores are bold, and it has the repu-
tation of being the roughest water in the Adiron-
dacks.

Ampersand Mountain may be ascended in from
two to three hours, following a blazed trail begin-
ning at the sand beach at the mouth of the brook
on the easterly side of the lake. From the top
may be obtained a very fine, comprehensive view.

Bartlett's (Club House) is a half mile up the
winding stream w^hich connects the mid.dle lake
with the Upper Saranac. The Club buildings
stand on a level with the higher lake, overlook-

■iH/AWATW/i tiQ^t

MAP OF UPPER SARANAC LAKE.

(Surveyed by Dr. S. B. Ward.^

THE ADIRONDACKS. SI

ing the lower. The "Saranac Club" has a charter
membership of twenty. The stated objects of
the club are primarily the health, happiness and
pleasure of its members, but there is ample room
and royal entertainment in the main building for
the traveller who chances that way. It is reach-
ed by boat from the lower lake and from Saranac
Inn on the upper lake or by a good road, open to
carriage or car, which circles the three lakes in
a round of about 45 miles. John A. Flanagan is
manager. Postofflce, Bartlett Carry,

Bartlett Carry extends from the club house,
something less than half a mile, to the Upper Sar-
anac. Boat and duffle (in the Adirondacks every-
thing in the way of baggage is "duffle") are car-
ried over on a cart, for which the employer pays
50 cents.

Upper Saranac Lake is 1,577 feet above tide.
It is eight miles long, measuring north and south,
and nearly two miles wide at its broadest. It dis-
charges toward the east from its south end,, mak-
ing a rapid descent of about 35 feet in 100 rods,
to Bartlett's, It contains a number of islands;
those at the south being rounded or level; those
at the north bold and rocky. The shores are
thickly wooded and rise into hills, which can
hardly lay claim to the title of mountains, but
which are picturesque and attractive. In the dis-
tance at the north is St. Regis Mountain; away at
the east Whiteface; toward the southwest Am-
persand and Seward. Of old the route to this lake
was generally by way of the Lower Saranac, as
above described, but the mass of visitors now
come to Saranac Inn Station, thence by stage to

THE ADIRONDACKS. 83

the head of the lake, and by steamer to the vari-
ous points on its shores.

Saranac Inn is at the head (north end) ot Upper
Saranac Lake, two miles from Saranac Inn Sta-
tion, with accommodations for 250 guests. Here
may be found every convenience and up-to-date
appliance looked for in a first class hotel. House
and cottages are on a point extending into the
lake from the north, and command a broad ex-
panse of water with distant mountains. The view
is equalled in extent nowhere in the Adirondacks,
except from the high land between Mirror Lake
and Lake Placid. The soil is dry and porous, the
peninsula on which the house stands level, and
the forests, which form a pleasant feature in its
surroundings, are grove-like, resembling a culti-
vated park in their shadowy depths. Under its
present management the Inn has gained the high-
est praise. The table is exceptionally good. Late
changes and improvements aggregate an expeo
diture of upward of $60,000. All the bath rooms
are heated. Many sleeping rooms contain both
radiators and fireplaces, so that the house may be
kept comfortably warm even in the coldest
weather. The large "Annex" is for the reception
of guests who may come before the hotel proper
is opened for the season, or wish to remain after
it is closed. House and cottages — and on occa-
sion camps and grounds — are lighted by acetylene
gas produced by the Colt generator with the most
up-to-date fixtures to be had. There is also a large
store on the grounds which ranks among the finest
in the Wilderness, where can be obtained all the
necessaries for camp or sport. Especially attrac-
tive are the rooms over the boat house, and cosy

THE ADIRONDACKS 85

and picturesque cabins and camps along shore.
Guides can be engaged through the management,
but it is advisable, when possible, to make such
arrangements well in advance. Among attrac-
tions to this section are the golf links said by en-
thusiasts to be an excellent course with some of
the finest greens in the wilderness

The G. N. W. W. U. and Postal Telegraph and
Cable Companies have offices in the hotel. Stage
fare to Saranac Inn Station is 50 cenis. Rates
for board, $4 up per day; $19.25 to $70 per week.
(See Page 268.) PostofFice Upper Saranac.

Harrington Mills, former manager at Whiteface
Inn, Lake Placid, owner and manager of Hotel
Grafton, Washington, D. C, is general manager
at Saranac Inn. D. W. Riddle is company's super-
intendent.

This section is attractive to the fisherman,
because of the multitude of ponds and streams
adjacent, there being within a circuit of three miles
over thirty that are recognized as among the best
trout yielding waters of the Adirondacks. The dot-
ted lines on the accompanying map of the lands be-
longing to the association (Page 84) show the
carries betvv^een ponds and lakes. Starting at the
"Inn," trips may be taken by boat and carry, cov-
ering a period of time from two hours to an en-
tire day. A favorite trip is one starting
at the Inn and crosssing the following ponds:
Spring, Green, Hoel, Turtle, Slang, Long.
Lake, thence back to the Inn. For obvious reasons
the hunter with limited time will find this available
ground. It is easily reached. An excellent house
renders the isolated position comfortable. It is well

86 THE ADIRONDACKS.

out in that wilderness where, north, west and south
streams and ponds cover the tract like crystal
beads on net-work of silver. Into this labyrintli
come the aeer wiio ue.i^nc m slhi wacer and the
tender food growing at its edge. With them it is
a favorite feeding ground and they find none bet-
ter even in the far west.

This house was a favorite with President and
Mrs. Cleveland, and was made their head-quarters
during their visits to the woods. Dr, S. B. Ward,
of Albany, is also a regular visitor; His camp on
Markham Point is notably picturesque and com-
fortable. A pretty little church on the hill back
of the hotel, erected in 1885, is open for service
during the summer.

The Wawbeek and cottages are on the west
side near the south end of the Upper Saranac.

WAWBEEK AND COTTAGES

At this writing it is understood they will not be
opened for guests this year.

THE ADIRONDACKS 89

Johnson Island Cl.cpcl is ajJUL a mile from
the Wawbeek. Services are held here on the Sab-
bath during the summer The chapel is open to
all denominations.

Rustic Lodge, which stood at the south end of
the Upper Saranac, has been eliminated so far as
the public is concerned and its ex-proprietor gone
bag and baggage, (including a half score or more
of the rustic cabins which flanked the old log
structure, over the ice to Lake Clear to provide
familiar quarters to old guests in a new environ-
ment at the Lake Clear Inn, of which Mr. Ward-
ner is now owner and manager. (Page 71).

Indian Carry Golf Links extend from this
point south over picturesque ground where once
tradition says were the corn fields of the ancient
Adirondack people who gave the place its name —
it is a pretty tradition anyway and experts say
the links are fine. Indian Carry continues south
over the divide to Stcny Creek Ponds one mile.
(Portage of boats and luggage, 75 cents.)

Hiawatha Lodge is at the south end of Indian
Carry. Lodge and cottages outlook over the
Spectacle (or Stony Creek) ponds and the east-
ern mountains, and. while practically hidden in
the depths of the vast wilderness, offers modern
fittings, and conveniences for a hundred people,
while touch is maintained with the outer world
through the long distance telephone brought into
the office. The original was destroyed by fire in
1910 but a new Lodge has risen from its ashes
modern in all respects and better in keeping with
the requirements of the needs of its newer clien-
tele gathered under its later management. New
bungalows have been added and here one may

.L^i

THE ADIRONDACKS 91

be retired as one could wish with the knowledge
that the social attractions of the larger public
building is their's at will. Lodge and cottages
are lighted by gas. Perfect saniutary conditions
are guaranteed by the manager. For the strenu-
ous and leisurely are the tennis court among the
trees close by, and the Indian Carry golf links,
half a mile awawy. For the sportsman are Adi-
rondack guide boats and sporting outfits. For
those who incline to the less hazardous, are the
broader St. Lawrence pattern. Those who would
go into camp can arrange for outfits here. The
Lodge is open the year round and fitted to take
care of early and late fishermen. May be reached
by boat and stage from Saranac Lake or Saranac
Inn station during the season. Experimentally, a
a special guests road service will be maintained
by automobile between the Lodge and Tupper
Lake. Rates, $4.00 per day. Special weekly and
family rates on application. Address W. L. Beck-
man, Corey's, N. Y. See page 260.

Stony Creek Ponds are three in number. The
first and third are small; the middle one about
a mile the longest way. Stony Creek, applied to
the outlet of the Ponds, is a misnomer. It is about
three miles long, sluggish, winding, and difficult
of navigation, making it advisable to continue
by road 2 miles from the Hiawatha House to
Axton, a little below where Stony Creek enters
the Raquette River. Axton is the outgrowth of
the lumbering operations of Dodge, Meigs & Co.
The draw-over from Saranac Lake to this point is
$1.25 for boat and luggage. For 1, 2 or 3 passen-
gers $1.50, and 50 cents for each additional per-
son.

■01..

THE ADIRONDACKS. 93

Raquette River is one of thr; .nost intere^^^in;
streams in the Wilderness. Portions ars very oea'i
tiful and wonderful in their solemn beauty- ?. th'
shallows it is amber, at a greater derth rei. taen a
rich brown, then almost like ink. So etiV ". runs that
it seems more like a river of black glas: tna::. water.
Great, shaggy, twisted cedars line ics banks, their
branches reaching out and downward toward the wa=
ter, the sides away from the river limbless and ver-
dureless. In places it has undermined them until they
bend over and stand curled upward with the even sweep
of a scimeter, while the smaller limbs, seemingly
alarmed at their too near approach to the water, tum
back upon themselves and hang in great hooks and
solid festoons from their leaning supports, the whole
mirrored in the glassy surface where you seem to
float midway between the heavens above and the
heavens below. The stream is navigable for boats
of considerable draft between Long and Tupper
Lakes. It is probable that in time a line of small
steamers nnll run the length of this stream to con-
nect with steamers on Long Lake for the South-
west Lake Region. From where Stony Creek enters,
it is 9 miles down the river to Sweeney Carry and ii
miles further to Tupper Lake.

Raquette Falls is 7 miles above Stony Creek
mouth. The water tumttles here about 15 feet.
\bove the Falls is a mile of cascades and rapids.

The Carry is a fraction over a mile in extent.
$1.25 for transportation of boat and luggage.
Three persons will be carried over in a buckboard
for $1.50. Cold River coming down from the
Mount Seward on the east, joins the Ra-
quette 5 miles above Raquette FaD*

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Something over a mile further is the foot of Long
Lake, for which see index.

Sweeney Carry ex'^^ends from Wawbeek west
three miles to the Raquette River. For transporta-
tion of boat and ligga^^e across, the price is $2.00.
Parties of three can rice over on a blackboard for 50
cents apiece.

Tromblee's is on the Raquette, at the west end
of the Sweeney Carry The house is small, affording
accommodations for only six or eight people, but it

givec a very ac-
ceptable dinner.
Mail daily through
the season. Open
from May ist to
November. Oliver
Tromblee, pro-
prietor. Post-office
address Wawbeek,
N. Y. Buckboards
can be had here
hj east-coming
passengers for the
three mile trip
over, and carrvdng wagons for the boats and luggage.
See appendix 'for additional particulars. The river
above this point is delightfully picturesque, marks of
the desolation caused by the flooded flats not being so
appaient here as further down. Trolling for pickerel is
the popular sport and yields most satisfactory results.
It is ribout 8 miles from Tromblee's Landing by the
new road to Tupper Lake Station. By river to the
/cot of Tupper Lake the distance is about 11 miles.

Tlie Lower Raquette once the most beautiful of
rivers is to-day a standing protest against the out-
rages perpetrated in the name of utility — where, as

AT SWEENEY CARRY.

THE ADlKONDACKb.

the result of damming the streams, a broad stretch
of grixndly wooded valley, whose equal for quiet
beauty could be found nowhere elsv. in the whole
Adirondack wilderness, has been alternately flooded
and drained — that forsootj: the logs could be floated
to market — until the once fragrant and shadowy
depths is but an expanse of hideous slime-covered flats

and malaria-
breeding p i 1 1
where the skele
s of drownec
s totter to
thf ir fall or lie
^ while and ghast-
'-^^^ ly ( n the rnirey
^^ ground. Is the
-^T^- preservation of
^ _ the Adirondack^
;,;;^^^3 merely a matter
'- ^^^ of s e n t i ment i
The desolation
is greatest as tne
foot of Tupper Lake is approached, extending then._e
to Tupper Lake village, the terminus of the Northern
Adirondack R. R.

Tupper Lake hangs like a bag on its gathering
string. The Raquette River is the string. It is i. 554
feet above tide, nearly seven miles long and three
broad. It has 25 islands, some level and covered with
hrifty trees, others barren and rocky, rising steeply
from the water. County Island is the largest, being
nearly a mile in length, and nas on its west side a
precipice known as the Devil's Pulpit. The surround-
ing country is wild but not grand with mountain
heights. Mount Morris, at the southeast, is the most
important elevation of the section.

THE DROV/NED LANDS.

THE ADIEONDACKS. 97

The Prince Albert is on the east side of the lake
near the outlet. Capacity, 40. R. N. Page, Pro-
prietor. Private board, $3 day; ?15.00 per week.
Fare to station, $1.50; two or more, $1 each.

The Waukesha, half-mile farther south, will
provide for thirty-five guests.

Bog River Falls comes picturesquely down over
the face of the broken rocks at the head of Tup-
per Lake . A ruined saw-mill here marks the site
of a past "effort," showing a considerable town,
with public squares and buildings — on paper.

Litchfield Park, southeast of Tupper Lake, is
held as a private preserve by the owner, Edward
H. Litchfield of New York, an enthusiast on the
question of the propogation of exotic game, and to
this end devoting money and all the resources of
the territory owned by him here to that purpose.

Little Tupper Lake is an easy half ray's journey
at the south, the most tedous part of this way be-
ing the two-mile carry from Bog River into Round
Pond. It lies centrally in Whitney's "Mountain
Park." A passable road leads east to Long Lake
and west five miles to the station at Long Lake
West.

Tupper Lake Village, terminus of the N. A. R.
R., is on Raquette Pond, which was created
by a dam built two miles below Tupper Lake,
to facilitate lumbering in this section. When
John Hurd built this road south to this point
to subserve his vast lumber interests, this

THE ADIRONDACKS..

was practically a virgin forest. The first train ran
through July 1, 1890. Now there are grouped
about its terminus two hundred and fifty buildings
of various sizes and conditions, churches and
hotels, school houses and steam saw-mills, with
capacity for sawing 245,000 feet of lumber per
day. A steamboat runs from this point to Tupper
Lake landings.

The N. Y. & Ottawa Railroad reaches to this
point from Moira (Gateway 14) 13 miles west of
Malone on the O. & L. C.
1 The distance is 56 miles.
The Blue Mountain
House (P. O. Gile, N. Y.),
near Blue Mountain, is
4 1-2 miles south;
stage, $1.00) ; will ac-
commodate 65. Except
the Blue Mountain re-
gion, there is little of in-
terest in Gateway 14.
The railroad was built
as a means of reaching
the valuable lumber of
this northern region and
was pushed through to
Raquette Pond. Much
of this wild land has been acquired by Wil-
liam D. Rockefeller, who is fostering the timber
of that section to make an immense preserve.

THE ADIBONDACKS.

CMiawold (station) is on the A. & St. L. R. R.,

about six railes west of Tupper Lake. A plank road
extendsfrom the station west and north thnmi^h a
magnificent forest of hard wood to Massawepie
Liake, the fountain head of Grasse River, one of the
best trout streams in northern New Yc^rk, and a ii< t<.d
resort for deer. Mr. Addison Child, to whom tuis >-cc

LOwoLO STA-rio'*

MAP OF CHILDWOLD PARK AND SURRcUNUlNuS.

tion owes much of its prosperity, and Mr. Henr\- r,.
Dorr, of Boston, together, own the whole woti-rn
half of township 6, and have preserved, under the
state law. with the title of CMldwold Park,

563650A

100 THE ADIRONDACKS.

a game and pleasure park of 6,000 acres, embrac-
ing Lake Massawepie and five contributary sheet
of water that encircle it. This section is about
1,450 feet above tide.

Hotel Childwold on the east shore of Massa-
wepie Lake is not open.

One and one-half miles east of Gale is Downey's
Landing, which is eight miles below Raquette
Pond. The stream is navigable from above to this
point, except for short carries around falls and
rapids.

Potsdam (Gateway No. 13) is the western
entrance to this section. A new state road ex-
tending to Colton, 10 miles from which a fair
country road continues to Childwood.

There are two good hotels at Potsdam. "The
Albion," Geo. W. Barnett, proprietor, and the
"Arlington," a new house, on the main street of
the village. Rates $2 up per day.

There are small houses at intervals along
the road and river, where entertainment can be
had at from $1 to $1.50 per day. The "Kildare
Club" of New York, composea of members of the
Vanderbilt family and friends, has a hunting lodge
near Jordan Lake and a park of several thousand
acres surrounding it.

Camp So-High is at Long Bow on the lower
Raquette, on the preserve of Dr. O. B. Coit, and
is managed by his sons, who are college gradu-
ates and teachers, as a summer camp for boys
with nature study, taught with woodcraft and
practical experience

CHAPTER V.

Ray Brook, Lake Placid, North Elba aaI
Heart Lake.

PEERLESS PLACID has long been known as the
' 'Gem of the Adirondacks. " Many places otfer as
their natural attraction a single lake, bit of forest, or
mountain. S' ^me have two of these features. Placid
has all three at their best, two of the most beautiful
American lakes, virgin forests near on every side and
literally scores of mountains within a day's walk, any
one of which would make the reputation of an or-
dinary resort. The railroads recognize its pre-emin-
ence and in each of the half dozen scheines for new
roads or exteusions admit that the chief objective
point is Placid. The Pullman sleepers and^ parlor
cars spend the day or night here at the end of the
line. Leaving New York in the evening they are
here in time for breakfast, or leaving at 9:30 a. m.
reach Lake Placid for supper; returning, they
start for Placid after supper and arrive at New
York for breakfast, or leaving about 9:30 a. m.,
reach New York the same evening. Thus trav-
elers by any one of the four daily trains between
New York and Lake Placid are free from the an-
noyance of getting up at unseasonable hours for
the start. The service fits admirably the con-
venience of guests. Nature's possibilities here
recognized by far-seing eyes and developed by
wise heads, have caused the recent phenomenal
growth and made this the famous summer home
of the mountains.

In 1900. Lake Placid was incorporated so it could
secure new advantages. It now has municipal
electric light, complete drainage and water works.

i4 i^'mi

; W:\

nliyWi/m/ '..', /ill I''.

1 H

.11 ' ■'

^^um

THE ADIRONDACKS 103

improved roads, a high school with a library, appar-
atus and a faculty of college and normal school
graduates of which the town is justly proud. It
has aiso a beautifuj public library on the shores
of Mirror Lake, free to all.

The Saranac & Lake Placid Railroad is 10
miles long, terminating about a mile south of Lake
Placid. Cars of the D. & H. and N. Y. C. & H. R.
railroad run through without change during the
summer. Transfer from terminus to Lake
Placid houses, 25 cents each person; same for
trunks. Arrange with agent on the train. Work
was commenced on the road May 1st, 1893, and
passengers carried through July 15th following.

At Lake Placid Station stages are taken for
Lake Placid hotels and Cascade Lakes. For car-
riage or matters relating to Adirondack Lodge
apply to the Lake Placid Club. See page 111.

The National Hotel opposite the station is
convenient and of excellent reputation. It has
modern fittings, with hot and cold water in all
sleeping rooms and bath between every two.
It has large patronage by hunters, fishermen
and commercial travelers. Garage and livery
connected. Rates $2.00 per day. Henry Allen
(formerly of the Grand View), Proprietor.

Lake Placid (village) is the outgrowth of a sen-
timent— love of the beautiful in nature. When in
1873. the writer first visited Lake Placid, the old
Lake Placid House, known generally as "Brews-
ter's," with "Nash's," the little red farm-house,
still standing at the southeast of the Stevens
House, were the only habitations in this section.
Now a thrifty village lines the shores of Mirror

THE ADIRONDACKS 105

Lake and the road to the south, while summer
cottages and princely hotels bid welcome to a
host of summer visitors.

Grand View is first of the leading hotels reach-
ed from the station. Its name suggests its charac-
teristic. It appears on the summit of a hill slop-
ing sharply towards the south and west and more
gradually to Mirror Lake on the east. The north
is more level and covered with beautiful forest.
The view sweeps the entire circle of mountain and
both lakes. The grounds of the old hotel have
been enlarged by buying on four sides till the
Grand View Park includes all the Mirror Lake
property and lake front on the main street and
extends two miles to the west. It includes the out-
let valley and western heights beyond and is being
transformed into a private park for the use of the
Grand View guests. The hotel accommodates 300.
Tennis, baseball and other outdoor sports are
provided for. A spacious ball room is a distin-
guishing feature of the Grand View and fine music
for dancing continues throughout the entire sea-
son. Rates, $4.00 up per day; single rooms, $21
up; double, $35 up per week. See page 259.

M. B. Marshall, proprietor of Hotel Hargrave,
112 West 72nd Street, New York, and late Man-
ager of Saranac Inn, is supervising director. The
photograph of the "grand vview" shown on oppo-
site page was taken some time ago. The house
is now surrounded by a thrifty grove of young
trees.

Northwoods inn is on the main street running
north along the west shore of Mirror Lake. Capac-
ity about 75. Rates $2.50 to $3.00 per day; $12.50
to $17.50 per week. Special May and June and
in September and October. T. A. Leahy, Pro-

THE ADIRONDACKS. lOV

prietor. The house is heated by hot air, steam
and open fireplaces, and has baths and electric
lights. Long distance telephone in the oflBce.
Station transfer 25c. See page 273.

The Lakeside Inn is next at the north. Accom-
modations are here for about 50 guests. C. E.
Baxter, Proprietor. Apply for particulers.

The Stevens House, built in 1886, is on high
land that separates Mirror Lake trom Lake Placid.
Rates $4 up per day; $21 up per week. Stevens
Hotel Co., Proprietors.

The Lake Placid Inn is at the head of Mirror
Lake on a point of the narrow land separating
the two. Capacity 150 guests. Rates $4 and up
per day; $21 and up per week, according to ac-
commodations. F. W. Swift, formerly manager of
Maplewood Inn and the Tahawus House at Keene
Valley, proprietor. The house is electric lighted.
It has single rooms and suites of two to four
rooms with private baths. There are open fire-
places in public rooms and modern improvements
throughout. Broard piazzas give fine views out
over both lakes and boat liveries on both are for
the pleasure of guests. A summer orchestra is
one of the pleasant features. All amusements
common to Adirondack hotels are provided for at
the Lake Placid Inn. See page 204. For par-
ticulars address F. W. Swift, Lake Placid.

Underciiff is on the west shore near the head
of the lake, accessible by the steamers and
launches at short intervals. Here are accommo-
dations for 100 guests. Rates $3 day; $15 to $25
week. Address, Underciiff, Lake Placid, N. Y.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 109

Whiteface Mountain stands in the north, its
base thickly clothed with spruce and balsam, its
head naked granite, seamed with deep rifts, rug-
ged broken in outline. Early in autumn and late
in spring, it wears its white hood of snow, which
obviously earned for it the name of "Whiteface"
from the Indian. Its top is 3.008 feet above Lake
Placid — 4,871 feet above the ocean. Eagle's Eyrie,
on one of the prominent spurs reached by a trail
from the bay west of Sentinel Point gives a mar-
velously beautiful view of the lake. The ascent
to the summit is made generally by leaving the
lake at Whiteface Landing and following a precip-
itous trail three miles. Trails also run from
Wilmington, at the northeast, and from Frank-
lin Falls, at the northwest. It affords un-
questionably the finest mountain view in
the Adirondacks, giving in different quar-
ters, cultivated valley and lowland at the north
and east; broken mountain ranges at the south,
and the broad lake-spangled region toward the
west, with beautiful Lake Placid like a mirror at
its feet.

Lake Placid Club is on the east side of Mirror
Lake. Its object is by co-operation to secure,
among congenial people an ideal vacation or
permanent country home. The club is not open
to the general public and no one is received
as member or guest against whom there can
be any reasonable physical, socal or moral ob-
jection.

The club has clearly defined features which dis-
tinguish it from other clubs. It has no bar or
cigar stand, no gambling, stock ticker, and

THE ADIRONDACKS. il.

serves no liquor. A chief aim is lo make the club
a children's paradise by assigning to them
separate buildings and sections of the ground.
It has no pretentious menu, no noise after 10
p. m., no beggars, tramps, peddlers, entertainers
or other solicitors, and no transients. It dis-
approves elaborate toilets, display or fashion,
and encourages -early hours, informality, comfort
and simplicity. It is characterized by large and
beautiful buildings, convenient and well equip-
ped, with the best beds, inclosed sun piazzas,
library and other comforts and conven-
iences; by very unusual prctecticn. It has
over 200 open fires, 500 radiators, 300 lava-
tories, and 260 baths, and is lighted throughout by
acetylene. Golf is the great specialty. mdlu hrdlu
acetylene. Golf is the great game specialty.
There are practice 9-hole and 18-hole courses, 12
golf camps and a central golf house with 200
lockers, hot and cold water, showers, stone fire-
place and comnlete equipment; also, on the edge
of the links, the "Golfery," with delightful quar-
ters for 94 players at about half the cost of rooms
in the club houses. Over $50,000 has been spent
on the links, which have 5 miles of fair green
and are pronounced by experts the most attractive
in the world. A 9 hole putting green, a 9 hole
court golf and 2 o'clock golf courts have been
added, making 47 holes, all in charge of the best
obtainable professional golfer and teaoher.

The club estate consists of over 6,000 acres of
nark, golf links, forest fields and farms. It now
has 205 buildings, with over 1000 rooms. The
real estate and modern equipment now repre-
sent over $1,100,000. While the club is not pub-
lic, visitors are given opportunity to see some-
thing of the plant that in fifteen years has be-

SHORE OWNERS ASSOCIATION
isse

THE ADIRONDACKt?. 113

come famous as the best of its type in the
world. 200 acres about the 4 central club houses
and cottages are enclosed in a man-proof steel
park fence to protect the families of members
from undesirable visitors. For fire protection
there are three fire houses and 6 stations, 20
pieces of wheeled apparatus, 6 engines, 50 lad-
ders, 500 chemic extinguishers, 50 hand force
pumps, 500 fire pails, 3 systems of hydrants sur-
rounding principal buildings in a total of 1800
gallons a minute. 24 streams have been played
at once.

Arden, the Forest theater in which Ben Greets'
full company plays 5 times each year, has re-
served seats for 1,000, a stage holding 100 and
dressing rooms for a company of 30. Electric
lights in the tree tops make an artificial moon-
light whenever wanted. It is inclosed with ever-
green hedge and has camp fires for chillynights.
There are concerts here from 2:15 to 3:30 p. m.
on alternate days all summer.

There are 31 club courts for outdoor games.
Those adjoining the Forest theater include 11
tennis, 2 bowling greens, 2 roque, 2 croquet, 2
tether ball, clock golf, basket ball and quoits.
These have electric lights and are flooded for
skating, hockey and curling rinks in winter. Both
summer and winter club houses have immense
game rooms, with over 20 indoor games.

At Forest Hall an Adirondack camp fire in the
center of the room is unique. Forest Hall Li-
brary, with its 5,000 volumes and 100 current
serials with reference books and a dozen study
tables with low lights, 2 huge stone fireplaces
and walls chiefly with sheets of glass which in
winter are tripled, make a room greatly enjoyed
and admired.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 115

The food stores hold whole train loads. Fruit
and vegetable cellar thousands of bushels.
Twelve cooler rooms take an annual supply of
4,000,000 lbs. of ice. The heavy meats come in
on trolleys. The fish room is like an aquarium
in the number and variety of fish each spread out
on an immaculately clean plate glass shelt.

The club has fresh vegetables from its own
gardens. Its 210 cows are tuberculin tested,
every one certified by the State veterinary. The
club poultry plant with its 5,000 thoroughbred
white leghorns is already famous.

Table and houses are in charge of recognized
experts in domestic science, who have a fixed sal-
ary with no selfish interest in receipts.

Board and room cost from $17.50 to $87,50 a
week, depending on rooms, service and
length of 3tay. The club has been open winter
as well as summer since 1903. The largest club-
house, "Lakeside," is open from June 30 to Octo-
ber 20.

The club has been open winter as well as sum-
mer since 1903. Its new winter clubhouse has 108
rooms and 48 baths. Several winter-built cottages
are also open all the year. The largest club-
house, "Lake Side," is open from June 30 to Octo-
ber 20. Two other clubhouses, "Iroquois" and
"Mohawk," on the edge of the links and command-
ing the finest mountain views, are open in July,
August and September.

As the club is a U. S. money order postoffice
open all the year, mail and telegrams should be
addressed Lake Placid Club, Essex County, N. Y.

JOHN BROWNS GRAVE

"John Brown's body lies a-mouldering .'in the grave,
And his soul goes marcning on." — Old Soti,q^.

Jolin Bro"WTi, "The old man of Osawatomie,
came to North Elba and secured a large tract of land
proposing to es-
tablish a home
which should be
a refuge for the
persecuted
black, and here
undoubtedly ma-
tured the plot by
whic h negro
slavery was to be
wiped out in the
blood of white
men. Here he
gathered quite a
company a D o u t
him, then in the
fullness of time — ■
October 17; 1859-
at Harper's Fer-
ry, struck the
first hard blow at
slavery in this
country which,
like the smell of
blood to wild
beasts, rendered

r/ir^ryi/ ^h^^^jtyny*

I20 THE ADIRONDACKS.

any settlement of the question short of a resort to arms
impossible. The whole is history now. There were
22 in all, white and black, with the old man when he
opened iire. When he was forced to surrender, one
son was among the dead, a second lay mortally
wounded by his side. Condemned and hanged as one
of the greatest criminals of the age, yet, when his
body was borne north to be buried at his old home
among the mountains it was as a triumphal march,
for cities were draped in mourning, and bells tolled
all along the way ! And here one terribly cold day in
bleak December a few who had loved the old man laid
his body away in the frozen ground, for he had said
" when I die. bury me by the big rock where I love to
sit and read the word of God." Then his large family
was dispersed, the widow finally selling the farm
of 244 acres for $800. Later, Kate Field made a pil-
grimas'e to the grave and told the story, and eighteen
New York men and one Boston woman added a hun-
dred dollars each, that the John Brown farm and grave
might be secured to the public forever. The names
are Kate Field, Isaac H. Bailey, John E. Wil-
liams, William H. Lee, George A. Robbins, George
Cabot Ward, Henry Clews, Randolph Martin, Le
Grand B. Cannon, Chas. S. Smith, S. B, Chittenden,
Isaac Sherman, Jackson S. Schultz, Elliot C. Cowdin,
Thomas Murphy, Charles G. Judson, Salem H. Wales,
Sinclair Toucey, Horace B. Claflin and "a Boston
woman."*

Tlie Jolin Brown, Farm is about two miles south-
east of Lake Placid. A half mile drive through the
open lane and field, brings you to the house and
grave. The house is weather-beaten and old, but if
you want a wholesome country meal you can get it
there, and a flower, perhaps, from beside the Big Rock
~*The subscribers to the fund for the purchase of the*John
Brown farm decided to make over the property to the State of
New York to be kept for all time as a part of the Adirondack
Reserve. To this end written consent was obtained from
the living subscribers and from the representatives of the
dead, and in 1896, the Legislature passed an Enabling Act.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

121

;8oo was executed at

mat Dears across itstace m great letters, '^jonn

Brown, 1859,"

Tlie Grave is marked by an old, time-stained head-
stone, which once did duty over the
remains of John Brown's grandfather
in Canton, Connecticut. The corners
are chipped off and defaced so that
parts of the letters are lost. The upper
half is in the quaint characters of " ye
olden time," the lower of amorere-
' v. cent date ; the face bears the follow-
'- , ing inscription :

" In memory of capt'° John Brow
--'■■• Who Died At Newyork 'Sep' Ye 3

1776 in the 42 year of his Age.
" John Brown Born May g
Charleston, P^a, Dec. 2. 1859."

•* Oliver Brown Born Mar. 9, 1839, was killed at
Harpers Ferry Oct. 17, 1859."

, On the back is the following:

" In memory of Frederick son of John and Dianth
Brown, Born Dec 21. 1830 and murdered at Osawa-
tomie, Kansas, Aug 30, 1856 for his adherence to the
cause of Freedom."

"Watson Brown, Born Oct 7, 1835 was wounded
at Harpers Ferry & died Oct. 19, 1859."

Beside the older is a newer grave containing the
body of Watson Brown, brought here and laid near
the father, October 12, 1882, after remaining unburieci
for nearly twenty-three years. Considered by the au-
thorities of Virginia simply as that of a criminal, it
was given after death to the Medical College at Win-
chester, and there preserved as an anatomical speci-

authorizing the state to accept the gift. This Act was ap-
proved by Governor Morton, and .hus the farm is forever pre-
served to the state. This Act has been since signalized by
the erection (1896) upon the grounds near the grave, of a heavy
granite tablet, bearing upon its surface the Act of Dedica-
tion, with the names of the donors-

Till-: ADIUONDACKS. 123

men — the mother appealing in vain for the privil-
ege of giving it Christian burial. Later, when the
town was occupied by the Union forces, it was car-
ried off by an Indiana surgeon, and kept by him as
a curiosity until in 1882. when he informed the
survivors of its whereabouts and offered to restore
it for more decent interment. From Indiana the
poor buffeted body went to the mother in Ohio, and
was finally brought here, and laid to rest beside
the "big rock," where he had played as a boy while
learning strange theories of "duty."

Cascade Lakes are 2.038 feet above tide, lying
between Long Pond Mountain, which rises abrupt-
ly along their south. ai:d Pitchoff Mountain on the
north, the road passirg east along the north side.
Originally one lake, it has been bridged by the
matter brought down by Cascade Brook to form
two. The Upper Lake is 1-2 of a mile long. The
lower, much narrower, is something over a mile in
extent. Both are deep in places and quite noted
for trout. East of Cascade Lakes tne road finds its
way down into Keene Valley and places better
reached from Gateway No. 3.

Cascade Lake House is 9 miles from Lake Placid
Station. Capacity 100. The hotel stands on about
the only available land found in the notch between
the Upper (west) and Lower Cascade Lakes, oppo-
site the Cascade which, in the rainy season is a
torrent, in time of drouth a tiny thread hanging
down over the face of the cliff a thousand feet
above. It is notably cool in summer because of its
altitude and the wind which seems to blow almost
uninterruptedly through the notch while the plains
are sweltering in heat. It is the wildest pass in
the Adirondacks accessible by carriage, and is
altogether delightful. The rates are $3.50 per day.

TRMLS
RADIATING FROM

ADIRONDACK LODGE

on AWN BY

HENRY VAN HOLVENBERG

SCALE

I 90^

>COTT fON»i

!nvr?

-C^*^^

''O/.

^m3^-

y^-^k

NORTH Jil\ ^^^-

,_ 17 ROCK

,\\,

^7^^

rK^^^"

lO^

C^^

»^

fAiHDt

RbO^

123-B THE ADIRONDACKS.

$17 to $21 per week during July and August; spe-
cial for June and September. J. Henry Otis,
Manager, Cascade, N. Y. See page 262.

South from Ames' the view is one of singular
beauty and breadth. The land slopes away down
into the valley, then rises in long, sweeping lines
to the foothills, thence to higher ridges and peaks,
and finally to the grand heights of Mclntyre, the
central figure in this mountain picture, flanked as
it is by Wallface on the west guarding the famous
Indian Pass and Mt. Golden on the east across the
wild notch where repose the waters of Avalanche
Lake. Outlined against the broad chest of Mcln-
tyre is the lower summit of Mt. Jo, sometimes
called the Bear. Between this and th e maiD
mountain, more than 2,000 feet above tide, rests a
lovely sheet of water 30 acres in extent, with
shores of white sand. Because of its shape it was
named "Heart of the Adirondacks."

In 1877 from the summit of Marcy a party of
mountain climbers looked out over the Adiron-
dack wilderness. In the party was Henry Van
Hoevenberg, electrician, of New York, and a lady
who, before the excursion had ended, had prom-
ised to continue with him to the end. From the
summit of the great mountain peak they selected
what they thought to be the most beautiful square
mile of forest, lake and mountain in the wilder
ness where they could "get nearest to nature's
heart." This square mile had little Heart LaRe
as its center and a mountlet overlooking, which
the man gallantly christened "Mt. Jo," petite
for the maid, who with him, then planned
the building of a castle there in keep*

THE ADIRONDACKS. 123-C

iig with the wild woods surroundings. Death
laimed one, but the inspiration remained and
gradually Adirondack Lodge took form and place,
as had been planned by the two.

It was built of rough logs holding still the bark
that had clothed them in their living form. Colon-
ades of trees supported the broad piazza and a
slender tower of logs rose above the tree-tops to
look out over them to the mountains on every side.
The devotion pledged to the one who had passed
on, was given to mother and sister and to the
monument that grew out of a sentiment into a
visible thing of beauty.

No tree was touched or ground uncovered save
as was made necessary to reach the place, and
when completed, that it might not be held too ex-
clusive, Adirondack Lodge was in 1881 opened
to the public as a place of entertainment under
certain restrictions.

Time passed. Fortune proved fickle and the
Lodge with its square mile of beauty passed out
of its builder's hands. Later (1900) it was ac-
quired by the Lake Placid Club which, with true
appreciation of the fitness of things brought its
old owner back to remain in charge summer and
winter through, and for a time all seemed as of old.
Then came the fire of June 3, 1903, which swept
through the forest and licked up the Lodge as a
dainty morsel. The creator of the Lodge, faithful
to the last, fought fiercely that he might save, and
failing, would have perished with it, but was
forced by loving hands to live once more. Then
faithful to his ideal, he again took up the work
and will be found in camp ready as of old with
genial welcome and well earned knowledge of

HENRY VAN HOEVENBERG.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 125

woodcraft freely placed at the service of friends
and his unwritten Adirondack stories told about
the campfire, continue as of old, filled with quaint
woodsy ideas and sounding like chapters taken
bodily from the Arabian Nights.

A new lodge will be constructed somewhat after
the old form, but the building has been abandoned
for the present. There is a lumber camp on the
site, but no accommodation for visitors. The near-
est habitable quarters are three miles out on the
road toward Lake Placid. Carriages may be taken
to this point, whence trails radiate. See map,
page 124.

Mount Jo is a 20-minute scramble (and a breath-
taking one as the summit is neared — better take
30 minutes up.) The view from Lookout toward
the south is the finest mountain view in the
Adirondacks.

To Indian Pass (Summit Rock, see page 179) is
6 miles, requiring about 5 hours for the round
trip, but it will be better to give a whole day tak-
ing lunch (furnished by the Lodge) on the way.
From Summit Rock, Lake Henderson may be seen,
1,300 feet below and 5 miles away. Close by Lake
Henderson is the Ruined Village now headquar-
ters of the Tahawus Club. (See page 173.)

The Round Trip is through Indian Pass to Adi-
rondack (night at the club house $2), thence via
Calamity Pond, Lake Colden and Avalanche Lake
back to the Lodge,
miles. See page 129.

IVIt. Mclntyre summit is about 4i/^ miles, time
2 to 3 hours up. To top of Mt. Tahawus is 7|/2

THE ADIRONDACKS

127

ii.vaianclie Xiake ihe wildest lake in the woods,
lies between Mt. Mclntire and Mt. (^olden, 5 miles

from Adirondack
Lodge. Its altitude
is 2. S46 feet above tide.
Its waters are cold and
deep. It is a half-mile
in krgth and lit a
few reds wide, the dark
reck rising almost per-
pendicular for many-
feet upward on either
side. The trail, such as
it is,runs along the west
side, at one point de-
scending to the water's
edge, the place rendered
passable by means of a
floating log anchored
alongside the vertical
wall. A remarkable
trap dike here shows a sectionof Mount Colden, split
dowmward for a thousand feet, its out-flowing rocks
nearly bridging the lake.

Lake Colden is a half mile south of the foot of
Avalanche Lake. Between the two is a small moun-
tain of debris which came down the side of ]\Iount
Colden in somie ancient land-slide, imprisoning the
waters of the upper lake. This probably, next to
Avalanche Lake, gives the wildest water view in the
wnlderness. Its outlet is through the Opalescent
River which, lower dowm, becomes the North River,
and still lower, the Hudson. On the west shore is a
log house belonging to the Adirondack Club ^vhere a
forester is kept "to guard the interests of the Associa-
h'on and see that laws respecting the preservation of

AVALANCHE LAKE FROM NORTH,

*Marcy Camp is north of the Summit one mile away, on the trail
towards Adirondack Lodge. From the Lodge this Camp is about 4
hours by the averafC mountain climber.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

game and fish are properly carried out. Near the
outlet of Lake Golden is an open camp where
parties going or coming may make themselves rea-
sonably comfortable for the night.

Mount Marcy (summit) is 5 miles from the foot of
Lake Golden. The trail is quite difficult in places
leading up along the little stream which is the outlet
of Liake Tear-of-tlie-Clouds resting something

over a half-mile
from the top of
Mount Marcy
and 4,321 feet
above tide. This
is the highest
body of flowing
water 1 n the
State and the
pond-source of
the Hudson
'\river. It is but
a few rods in
extent, s u r-
rounded by a
coarse bog,
tremulous over unknown depths ?f black muck. Its
level floor is black as ink, thinly covered with the clear
water through which occasional snail-shells shine white
as snow. About the little pool, stunted trees make an
unequal fight for life against the cold. A linlehi^beron

LAKE TEAR-OF-THE-CLOUDS.

_ THE ADIRONDACKS. ■J^29

the moantain the fight is given up and at the top only
hthens and hardy Alpine grasses find refuge in shel-
tered places. If breathless and athirst when near the
top, you may find on the west side a huge pocket in the
rock filled wit]: soft, spongv^ moss. Press the moss
aside and the space will be full of pure cold water.
The upper thousand feet is bare. It is naked rock the
farthest down on the south-west side ; the west side has
more the apDearance of a hillside pasture than a
mountain above vegetation, its partial covering of
Alpine grasses an:l other plants giving it that appear-
ance. The ascent of Marcy may be made from
Adirondack Lodge which is nearest of any house
of entertainment, -jl^ miles distant ; from Keene Val-
ley by way of John's Brook ;^i2 miles) or the Au
Sable" Lakes, or from the " Ruined Village " at the
Adirondack Iron Works. The last two routes unite
near Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds, It will not be advis-
able to make the ascent from any direction without a
guide, although it is possible for those accustonied t
mountain climbing and mountain trails to do s'
Those who know all about it will need no advice
those who do not, will need a guide as no amount a
written directions v%'ill suffice. Another bit of advice
Take two days for the trip, and plenty of provision
and blankets, and camp out somewhere on the way —
your guide will know where*

Tlie Summit of Marc>' .s of the oldest known
rock on the earth. Its head was lifted above the water
in the early morn of creation and stood for ages bat-
tling wnth the elements while yet the mighty mountains
of the Eastern Hemisphere were buried beneath the
"Xiean.

■^ CHAPTER VI.

Keeseville, The Au Sahle River and
Salmon River Valley.

GATEWAY 2 leads from Port Kent past Au Sable
Chasm (see page 40) and tip the Au Sable J^iver.
Keeseville, on the Au Sable River, five Uiucs 1 rem
Port Kent, and nearly two above Au Sable Chasm is

thrifty and
enterprising
It has a num-
ber of fine
private resi-
dences and
public e d i -
fices, built of
the beautiful
creamy sand-
stone which
underliesthis
section of the
country. The
water- power
is utilized in
the twine,
wire, andiron
manufactor-
ies, and by
the Au Sable Horse-Nail Company, here, and at the
Nail-Rod Works, on the road to Au Sable Chasm. It
has numei ous churches, a graded school, and a wide-
awake weekly — the Essex County Republican — which
keeps the public in . healthy state of agitation.

131

132 THE ADIRONDACKS.

The Interlaken is on Augur Lake, two miles
south of Keeseville. The house is three stories
high and affords accommodations for about a hun-
dred guests. It has 250 feet of veranda, and —
as a concession to those who may be timid about
fires — each has outside as well as inside, stair-
ways. There are pine groves near the house and
many pleasant drives in the vicinity. The place
has many features of attraction to the moderate
sportsman. There are good fishing ponds and
streams and, every other day, free transportation
to some one or other of these is given in the in-
terests of sport. Augur Lake affords good boating
and fishing. Beyond, at the south rise the rocky
walls of Poke o'Moonshine and Baldface Moun-
tains. Nearby is Augur Chasm, in character
something like Au Sable Chasm. The Interlaken
may be reached by stage from Keeseville; fare
50 cents. Rates $2.50 day; $10-$15 week. For
particulars address C. B. White, Keeseville. (See
248).

Au Sable Forks is at the junction of the east
and west branches of the Au Sable river, 11.7
miles above Keeseville. The way is over a "state
road" along the northwesterly side of the river
and is extremely picturesque in a quiet, pastoral
sense, a perfect roadbed making it ideal for car-
riage or automobile. It is a busy town with the
J. & J. Rogers iron interests and the terminus of
the Au Sable branch af the D. & H. railroad.

The American House is wholesome and is
worthy of patronage. C. H. Green, proprietor.
Rates, $2 up per day. Stage for Keene Valley
connects with morning train.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 133

Jay is on the east branch of the Au Sable 6.1
miles south of the Forks. Hotel The Elmwood,
J. R. Sweeney, proprietor. Rates, $2-$3 per day;
$8-$12 per week. This is on the State road under
process of construction, continuing on through
Upper Jay (6 miles) to Keene (5 miles), beyond
which is Keene Valley, for which see the follow-
ing chapter:

Wilmington is on the West Branch about 11
miles above Au Sable Forks. The town gives
marked evidence or former prosperity, and, at
some past time, was a centre of considerable im-
portance. Now it is a little hamlet, combining
the old and the new picturesquely enough. A
trail leads from this point 6 miles to the top of
Whiteface Mountain.

Whiteface Mountain House offers entertainment
at $2 to $2.50 per day; $8 to $14 per week. F. E.
Everest, proprietor. This house is specially at-
tractive for its dainty furnishings and service.

The Whiteface Club on the west side of the
river offers attractive quarters for visitors with
special accommodations and, supplies for touring
autoists. Rates, $3 per day. E. J. Olney & Son,
proprietors.

Whiteface Mountain is best ascended from Wil
mington, the road leading west then soutu in a
gradual ascent, which can be made on horseback
the greater part of the way. There is a camp
near the summit offering acceptable fare and
beds for such as wish to remain over night.

An excellent road — albeit hilly — runs south
through Wilmington Notch (14 miles) to Lake
Placid.

CHAPTER VII.

Elizabethtown, Keene Valley and the
Au Sable I-akks.

Westport (see page 33) is the usual entrance
from the east to Elizabethtown and Keene Val-
ley. Daily stages run from morning trains week
days -via Keene and Cascade Lakes to Lake
Placid. The Elizabethtown Terminal Railroad,
extending from Westport station to this point, is
under process of construction to be in operation
later in the season.

Elizabethtown is the county seat of Essex Coun-
ty, with native population of about 1,000. It is
peculiarly an American town, having very little
foreign population, with no mills or forges to fill
the streams with sawdust, your clothes with
soot, or your eyes with cinders. It has a spe-
cially wholesome and instructive weekly in form
of the "Elizabethtown Post," edited and man-
aged by George L. Brown; several churches and
is the birthplace of a number of legal lights and
celebrities. Pending the construction of the new
road through Pleasant Valley, Elizabethtown is
best reached by autos from the south via State
road to Port Henry and Westport.

Maplewood Inn is in the valley part of the
town nearly hidden among surrounding maples.
Roberts Brothers, proprietors. Rates, $2.50 to

136 THE ADIRONDACKS

$4.00 per day; $12.50 to $21.50 per week. Open
aa the year. It has been grately improved under
new management and is provided with modern
conveniences, including gas, electric bells, rooms
en suite with bath etc. The table is exception-
ably good and daintily served. It has a cement
and iron-cased garage of its own convenient to
the house.

The Windsor is on the plain at the southern
edge of the village. Orlando Kellogg & Son, pro-
prietors. Rates, $3.50 up per day. This is the
great summer hotel of the valley. A noted stop-
over house for automobilists and to be heartily
recommended. The Cobble Hill Golf Links are
near bV at the south.

Deer's Head Inn, originally the Mansion house,
is on the east side of road, near the Windsor.
This house spreads an excellent table and caters
specially to auto travel of which it gets its full
quota. For particulars as to rates, etc., address
its proprietor, Benjamin F. Stetson, Elizabeth-
town, N. Y.

Primes' Garsge, just west of the Windsor on
the road leading to Keene Valley can make need-
ed repairs, supply gasoline, oils, etc., and store
or furnish cars for hire on application.

Cobble Hill rises at the southwest edge of the
plain like a huge, rough pyramid. Beyond this the
level interval narrows to a mere notch.

Hunters' Home is 7 miles south of Elizabeth-
town, notable and of excellent reputation. Rates,
$10-$15 per week. Laverty Brothers, proprietors.
P. O. New Russia.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 137

Split Rock Falls, a mile south of Hunters'
Home, exceedingly picturesque, and the flume
wild and broken. Two miles farther south is
Euba Mills, where a road runs west, leading
through Chapel Pond Gorge to St. Hubert's Inn,
at the head of Keene Valley. A mile farther south
is Underwood. Deadwater is 16 miles from Eliza-
bethtown; Roots, 23 miles; Schroon Lake, 32
miles. North of Elizabethtown the road runs close
under the frowning ledge of Poke-o'Moonshine,
past Augur Lake to Keeseville, 22 miles distant.
West, the road winds upward through Hurricane
Pass and down beyond, striking (10 miles from
Elizabethtown) the north and south road which
runs the length of Keene Valley.

**********

Hurricane Lodge, which stood on the western
slope of Hurricane Mountain where it descends
toward Keene Valley, 900 feet below, was de-
stroyed by fire in May, 1912.

Keene Centre is at the bottom of the valley,
12 miles from Elizabethtown. Northward from
this point the road follows along the Au Sable
River past Upper and Lower Jay to Au Sable
Forks, where the east and west branches unite.
Westward the way leads up through Cascade
Notch — the wildest part of the Adirondacks
reached by carriage — to North Elba and Lake
Placid.

138-40

THE ADIRONDACKS.

The Owls Head is here, the usual dining place
for passengers between Westport and Lake
Placid. Rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day, $8 to $12 per
week. Guides and hunting and fishing outfits
•will be secured if desired and parties met at
trains and boats if notice be sent in advance.
Address W. A. Washburn, Keene, N, Y.

Keene Valley shows the loveliest combination of
quiet valley, and wild mountain scenery of any
section of the Adirondacks. The mountains are
close on every side, rising steeply from the val-
ley's floor which was once, undoubtedly, the bottom
of an ancient lake, its one-time surface level indi-
cated by the ancient beach, to be clearly seen now,
along its western side. Its outlet may be looked
for at right or left of the castellated bluff that
fills the valley, centrally, just north of where the
Elizabethtown road comes down the long hill
Three miles south of this point is Keene Vallej
(village and postoffice). Keene Heights is an
added 3 miles and 3 1-2 miles farther finds the
end of the road at the foot of beautiful Lower Au-
Sable Lake.

The Keene Valley Garage near the center
of the town, conducted by G. H. Luck Comany,

KEENE VALLEY GARAGE

can supply all essentials and make necessary re-
pairs.

THE ADIR0XDACK3.

141

Keene Valley House is on the west side of the
village, with accommodations for 150. Rates,
$2.50 per day; $li to $16 per week. S. P. Clark, ^
proprietor. In addition are a number of smaller
boarding houses with rates from $7.00 to $14.00
per week.

Sontiiwarrl the valley rarrows until in places
there seems hardly space between the hills for
river and road

1 -■

— ^

_ '_

»•».-

■

-: - JM

l'Q&?— »-' -

-#'

-■*"*— ^

,-'-:>m

ST. HUBERT'S.

St. Hubert's Inn at St. Hubert's, three miles
south of the village, is not open as a hotel ordi-
narily, but temporary accommodations can be
had (limited to two days) on application, or for
longer stay on introduction by a member of the
association. Augustus J. Coughlan, manager
during the winter of the Great Southern Hotel at
Bogalusa, Louisiana, is summer manager at St.
Hubert's.

The Adirondack Mountain Reserve is south of
St. Hubert's, including within its limits the Au

THE ADIRONDACKS 14b

Sable Lakes and the mountains surrounding them.
Officers: R. W. DeForest, president; S. Sidney
Smith, secretary; F. M. Weld, treasurer; W. S.
Brown, superintendent in charge. The declared ob-
jects of the association are, the preservation of the
forests, lakes and streams, the restocking of the wa-
ters with fish; the protection of game and the ren-
dering more accessible, by roads and trails, of
points interesting within its domains. Hunting is
not permitted. Fishing is allowed only by special
permit. Boats will not be rented on the Lakes nor
will goods be sold by the agents of the company
on Sundays. No malt or spirituous liquors are
sold on the reserve. The club house and cottages
are occupied by members of the association during
the season. At the gate house, photographs and
curios are sold. The road to Au Sable Lake af-
fords one of the most delightful drives. Toll, 25
cents for each person; horse and rider, 25 cents.
Pedestrians go free. Club members pay $50 per
year dues.

Lower Au Sable Lake is two miles long, narrow
like a river, and extends north and south between
Resagonia, or "Sawteeth," Mountain on the west,
and Mt. Colvin on the east rising steeply nearly
2.000 feet above. There is no trail along its sides,
which are almost impassable. Indian Face looks
out over the water, equalled in its imposing
strength only by the great stone face of the White
Mountains. The view from Indian Head is won-
derfully fine. Rainbow Falls, in the gorge over
across the outlet and Ribbon Falls hanging down
over the same cliff a little deeper in should be
seen. The two are divided strands of the same
stream, which here comes down off the Gothics.

144 THE ADIRONDACKS

Boats can be secured at the boat house at foot of
the lake. From the head of the Lower Lake a
trail leads a mile through the woods to the Upper
Lake.

Upper Au Sable Lake is nearly two miles long
by a half mile wide. It is perhaps the most pictur-
esque of all Adirondack lakes although not the
wildest. There are a number of Open Camps here
which visitors will be permitted to occupy when
introduced by a club member. The guides receive
$3 a day for services and fifty cents per day will
be charged each visitor for the use of camp.

The ascent of Mount Marcy from Keene Valley
is generally by way of the Au Sable Lakes, the
way leading up the inlet by boat to Marcy Brook,
thence along the west side of Bartlett Mountain
through Panther Gorge, or along the south side of
the mountain to Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds

Chapel Pond Road leads southeast from the
head of Keene Valley, where the right hand way
climbs the hill to St. Hubert's. Roaring Brook
Falls may be seen coming off from the Giant at
the left as the gorge is entered making a descent
of 300 feet in a series of cascades and chutes.
Chapel Pond, about two miles from the turn, is in
the deepest part of the gorge 1,620 feet above tide
— a lonely sheet more fitting for solemn medita-
tion than for angler's sport. The Giant's Wash-
bowl is on the side of the mountain 500 feet above.
The road continuing leads on to Euba Mills, then,
branching, runs north to Elizabethtown and south
through Scbroon Valley.

Port Henry Gateway No. 4 (See page 31), is
about 12 miles north of Ticonderoga. The road

THE ADIRONDACKS.

159

leads west to
Moriah, thence
southwest to
Schroon River
(Carson's, $2
day). Stage runs daily, continuing on to New-
comb and Long Lake.

Gateway No. 6 (Fort Ticonderoga) leads to Ti-
conderoga (village) and to Baldwin at the north
end of Lake George (5 miles), where steamers
are taken for Caldwell. Ticonderoga is about
midway betweein the two lakes. Stage daily
(Sundays excepted) to Schroon Lake.

Eagle Lake is 7 miles west of Ticonderoga, in
a narraw defile on the divide between Lake
Champlain and Schroon Valley at an elevation of
about 1,000 feet. It is nearly 3 miles long, nar-
row and closely pressed by precipitous shores.
Eagle Lake Hotel is near the east end of Eagle
Lake. Capacity 75. George A. Houghtaling, y
owner and proprietor. Postoffice, Eagle Cliff.

EAGLE LAKE HOTKL

Pyramid Lake is lOi^ miles from Ticonderoga
and about the same from Schroon Lake. In the
lake is a high rounded island which suggests the
name. Pyramid Lake House is occupied by a
club.

CHAPTER VIII.

Luzerne, Schroon Lake, Xorth Creek aj^'D

THE "Ruined Village."

SARATOGA is Gateway Xo. 7. From this poin:
the Adirondack Railroad runs north until
it strike^ the
Hudson River
at Corinth,
thence up
along its west
bank to North
Creek 5 7 miles
distart.

iius^erneis i
situa-iedatthe
junc'<.iono£the
Hudson and
Sacan daga

rivers, twenty-two miles north of
Saratoga. It is inclosed by rounded
hills, heavily wooded to their sum-
mits, save here and there a break
where some ledge looks out on
the valley below. On the west are
the Kayaderosseras mountains ;
on the east, the Luzerne range,
that has its rise at Lake George,
and ends where the Hudson, turn-
ing east, breaks through between
it and Mount McGregor on the south, where Grant,
the soldier, came to die. Toward the north the moun-
tains are broken, rocky and picturesque. These are

THE ADIRONDACKS. 161

the outstretching spurs of the Adirondacks, from
which the Hudson comes flowing quietly along to
its union with the Sacandaga at Ti-si-ran-do, "the
meeting of the waters." From this point down
the river to Jessup's Landing are six miles of
still running water, then the riVer sweeps around
almost north again and makes a plunge of 60
feet over Palmer's Falls, then comes the big
power plant at Spier Falls, then rapids and the
"Big Bend" and finally the plunge at Glens Falls.
Luze e is on the old Indian trail from the great
villages of the Mohawks to the head of Lake
George. Here King Hendrick and his braves en-
camped when on their way to join Johnson at
Lake George in 1755.

WAYSIDE INX AND COTTAGES

Luzerne Lake is a pearl set in emerald, lying at
quite an elevation above the village, a crystal
drop on the hillside, held there by a narrow em-
bankment through which the outlet finds its
way out into the Hudson and to the sea.

The Wayside Inn is on high ground by the side
of Lake Luzerne. Around it, scattered pictur-

162 THE ADIRONDACKS.

esquely among the trees, are eleven cottages
tributary to the main hotel, where all gather for
necessary meals and social functions. The
/house and cottages give home to an even hun-
dred with publicity or seclusion, as may be de-
sired. Rates $3.50 up per day transient, $17.50
up per week. Ernest Serfling, proprietor.

All amusements common to mountain resorts
can be had here from golf, tennis, autoing, driv-
ing or riding to boating, fishing or hunting as the
visitor wills. Automobilists will find special ac-
commodations for their cars with gasoline or
other necessaries of the road. Mr. Serfling speaks
for himself on page 254.

Rockwell's Hotel by the riverside was made
famous of old under the founder of the family of
noted inkeepers of that name of which the man-
ager of the Ten Eyck at Albany is the prominent
surviving representative.

North of Luzerne the railroad rin^, along the
river bank, at times crowded clo;-e against its
brink as the valley narrows down : nd the moun-
tains grow more abrupt and preciiiitons. River-
side is fifty miles from Saratoga, rhore is little
to interest here, save the gracef «' suspension
bridge thrown across from shore to shore over
which the tourist goes to Chestertown and
Schroon Lake.

Johnsburg is 5 miles southwest of Riverside.
Hutchins' Lodge is a fine old mansion where Al-
vin Hutchins of old at Chain Lake is proprietor.

Chestertown is a thriving little village six
miles east from Riverside. Its environments is
picturesque with little lakes and valleys and roll-
ing hills that rise at times to considerable moun-
tains, A fine state road leads there and one al-

THE ADIRONDACKS.

163

most as good thence southward to Lake George.

The Chester House stands on high ground,
where the roads cross fronted by a nice grove of
maples. Harry S. Downs, proprietor. The house

CHESTER HOUSE

has a long established reputation for wholesome
excellence. Rates $2.00 to $3.00 per day, $10 to
$15 per week.

Friends' Lake, 3 miles west and south of Ches-
tertown, is picturesque and approved by many.

Valentine's at the south end of the lake is
quite noted as a fishing resort.

Brant Lake is o miles east of Chestertown. A
good road leading there over which an automobile
stage runs regularly during the season to con-
nect with trains at Riverside,

Pebloe Hotel on the west shore of the lake,
near its southern end, will accommodate
guests. Rates $10 up per week. Philetus Smith
proprietor.

Palisades Hotel is also on the west shore, about
2 miles further north. William Owens, proprie-
tor. Rates $2 per day, $10 up per week.

ke,

125 /
ith, /

164 THE ADIRONDACKS.

To Schroon Lake over the state road from Riv-
erside you may go in an automobile now. It's
like "seeing New York,' only a better air and
lacks the noise, and incidentally a delightful
change for the better over the stage coaches of
old.

Potersville is a nice little village of a single
street with rugged surroundings, though the nec-
cessity for stopping at the Pottersville hotel is
not so apparent.

Schroon Lake is surrounded by mountains, not
high but wild and rugged, broken into curious
fragmentary masses around its south end, but
growing smoother as you go north. It is nearly
ten miles in length, about two wide, and divided
into two nearly equal portions by approaching
points at the narrows. It receives the waters of
Paradox and other lakes and streams on the
north, and empties through Schroon River into
the Hudson at Thurman. The Steamboat land-
ing at the outlet is something less than a mile
from Pottersville.

Watch Rock Hotel is on the east shore, 4 miles
from the outlet. The Taylor House will not be
opened for guests the present season.

The Grove Point House stands on an elevated
point extending from the west shore near the
north end of the lake, a half mile from the vil-
lage of Schroon Lake. Capacity 100. Capt. W.
A. Mackenzie, proprietor. Rates, $3.00 per day,

Schroon Lake I have .spoken of in general.
Schroon Lake in particular means the village at
its head. The main street, through which the
road runs to the north is a fine shaded avenue,
the land sloping down to the edge of the lake,
displaying the whole in a very pretty manner.

The Ondawa, first as approached from the
south, has capacity for about 100 and is open all

THE ADIRONDACKS:

165

>^^^^^^|

^"^^^fl

^Rm

^nl

ll^^

the year. $3, to $4 per day; $14-$21 week. The y
table is exceptionally good. F. C. Bailey, pro- iX
prietor.

Automobilists will find supply of gasolene and /
oils at G. W. Taylor's, directly apposite the On- i/
dawa. -

The Leiand House is the largest of the hotels
and with two cottages has accommodations for
about 200 guests. $3 to $4 per day, $21 up per
week.

Carson's (formerly Root's) is at Schroon River
9 miles north of Schroon Lake. (See page 146).
Northward from this point stretches the beauti- 1
ful valley until the gradually approaching moun- '
tains come together at Deadwater, where the
Schroon River, now but a mere brook, starts on
its winding way southward. A little farther on
is Underwood, home of the Wawonaissa Club, and
after another mile roads diverge, the one
bearing toward the right leading down around
Split Rock Falls, 3 miles to Hunter's Home (page

THE ADIRONDACKS. 171- A

141) an;! to Slizabe'htown, 10 miles (page
135) ; the other toward the left, upward through
Chapti jrond Gorge to Keene Valley, about six
miles distant, (page 140).

North Creek, 57 miles from Saratoga, is the
northern terminus of the Adirondack Railroad.
(See page 180.) Stages run week-days from
North Creek to Blue Mt. Lake. Fare, $2.50. A
buckboard for the drive carryirg 3 persons costs
from $10 to $12. The road west, which had been
allowed to suffer from neglect, has been greatly
improved. It is now in excellent condition and
passable for automobiles except in extremely wet
weather, but the way is long and it is recom-
mended that private conveyance be secured at
North Creek for the journey through to Blue
Mountain Lake, for which apply to agent on plat-
form on arrival of trains.

The Adirondack House at North Creek is
the leading hotel with capacity for 100 guests.
Rates $2 and up per day. It has steam heat, with
modern conveniences and furnishings. A free
'bus runs to all trains. Buckboards and rigs suit-
able for long or short drives can be secured ai
the office. Moynehan & Anderson, proprietors.

The North Creek Garage, operated by the N. C.
Telephone Company at the central office just
south of the Adirondack House, can furnish all
kinds of auto supplies. The plant is fitted with
lathe and drill-press of the latest type with all the
tools of the business in charge of a skilled ma-
chinist. A. Pireau, Proprietor. See page 267.

-J

THE ADIRONDACKS. 171-C

Minerva is 8 miles from North Creek on the
line of the new state road which is to be con-
tinued westward past Newcomb to Long Lake.
Automobile Stage runs from North Creek on ar-
rival of morning train, continuing on to Newcomb
in the afternoon.

Tlie iVIountain View House here affords good
accommodations and wholesome fare. It is a
convenient dining place and rooms are reserved
for automobilists. This is one of the newer
hotels in the chain owned and operated by John
Anderson, Jr., of Newcomb. Rates $2.50 up per
day; special by the week. The house has an
altitude of 1,400 feet. Toward the east it looks
over into a deep valley. At the left, past over-
grown orchards and abandoned farms, the road
goes galloping away into the woods. Toward the
right it leads through prosperous farms to 01m-
stedville, 3 miles distant. This is a-n old settled
country, restful as the Berkshires, quaint and
wholesame. There are small hotels and boarding
houses in and about the villages, at from $5 to $10
per week. It cannot be described. It is unlike
anything about the Adirondacks anywhere else.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Its grass-grown roads and quaint ways are a con
tinuous delight. Get a horse and an easy riding
carriage of your host of the Mountain View and
make a day or two of it. See page 262.

Aiden Lair Lodge, 7 miles north of Minerva.
M. F. Cronin, "the man who drove Roosevelt" that
black night when the rough rider raced to be-
come president, is proprietor.

Nine miles north of Aiden Lair a road branches
to the right leading (2 1-2 miles) to Tahawus
The main way which is a fine section of state
road continuing west (5 miles) to Newcomb, for
which see page 173.

Tahawus is at present centered in a single
house, The Lower Club House, belonging to the
Tahawus Club, whose headquarters are at the
Upper Adirondack Works. Five miles up, the
foot of Lake Sanford is reached. The lake is four
miles long with low marshy shores, punctured
here and there by round hills and knobby points.
Just above the head of Lake Sanford is the "Old
Forge," now in ruins.

The Tahawus Club leased the hunting and fish-
ing privilege from the Maclntyre Iron Company,
consisting of nearly 90,000 acres extending to the
Upper AuSable Lake on the east and from the
Lower Works to include Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds
and Lake Golden at the north, with headquarters
at the Upper Works. It may be of interest to

THE ADIRONDACKS. 171-E

note that the first steel maDufactured in the
United States was made here. The Maelntyre
Iron Company is composed entirely of the de-
scendants of the original three owners of the
property. They show a gold medal awarded for
tne only exhibit of American steel at the Great
Exhibit in London in 1851, and a silver medal for
the best exhibition there of Cast Iron from the
United States. A bit of history of a later date
is in the fact that Vice President Roosevelt,
while a guest here of James MacXaughton re-
ceived the sad word that brought him to the presi-
dency of the United States.

History of Adirondack. In 1826 JNIessrs. Hen-
derson, McMsrrin, and Mclntire owned and oper-
ated iron-works at North Elba, where they were
shown a piece of ore of remarkable purity by an
Indian, which, the man said, came from a place
where "water run over dam, me find plenty all
same." The services of the Indian were secured
at once, at the munificient rate of two shillings
and what tobacco he could use per day, to con-
duct them to the place spoken of, where the
water liteirally poured over an iron dam. A
tract of land embracing the principal ore beds in
the vicinity, was promptly secured, forges built,
and a road cut from the lower works out to
Lake Champlain. But the expense of transpor-
tation to market swallowed all the profit and the
enterprise proved a financial failure. The work

THE ADIRONDACKS

however was persevered in until the death of Mr.
Henderson, who was killed in 1845 by the accidental
discharge of his pistol at a place now known as
Calamity Pond. The body Vas borne out on the
shoulders of workmen, and afterwards a beautiftil
monument placed where he fell, bearing the inscrip-
tion : '^ Erected by filia/ affecti07i to the memory of
our dear father, David Henderson, who accident-
ally lost his life 07i this spot by the prejuatui e dis-
charge of a pistol, jd Sept., 184s.'" In the d ;ath of
Mr. Henderson the motive powder was removed and
in 1856 work was discontinued. In 1858 the surviv-
ing partners died, and the works were abandoned.
There was somethmg gruesome aoout the Rume4

-y^'^'^^l^h^.

ADIRONDACK IN 1^1^.

Village when we approached in our tramp or '73. A
quarter of a century had passed since the hum of in-
dustry sounded there. Where once sounded the crash
of machinery and the shouts of children at piav, all
was still save perhaps the shrill bark of the fox or the
whir of the startled partridge. Instead of the music
of voices all was silence, solemn and ghostly. Over
the mountains and the middle ground hung a dark
funereal pall of cloud, across which the setting sub
cast bars of ashen light tha^ ^ell on the neai'er build-

THE ADIRONDACKS.

mgs, bringing out their unseemly scars in ghastly re-
lief, and lying in strips across the grass-grown street
which led away into the shadow. On either side
stood cottages, stained and blackened by time, with
broken windows, doors unhinged, falling roofs and
crumbling foundations. At the head of the street
was the old furnace, one chimney still standing, one
shattered by the thunderbolt in ruins at its feet. The
water-wheel — emblem of departed power — lay mo-
tionless, save as piece by piece it fell away. Huge
blocks of iron, piles of rusty ore, coal bursting from
the crumbling kilns, great shafts broken and bent,
rotting timbers, stones and rubbish, lay in one com-
mon grave, over which loving nature had thrown a
shroud of creeping vines. Near the centre of the
village was a large house that a'- one time accommo-
dated a hundred boarders, now grim and silent. Near
by at the left stood the pretty school house, the steps
worn by many little feet, had rotted and fallen, the
windows were almost paneless, the walls cracked and
rent asunder where the foundation had dropped
away, and the doors yawning wide, seemed to say not
"welcome "but "go" —

" O'er all there hung a shadow and a fear,
A sense of mystery the spirit daunted
And said as plain as whisper in the ear,
The place is haunted."

To-day out little remains of the Ruined Village. All
but two or three of the buildings that stood in 1873
have been removed or destroyed. The ancient school-
house does duty as a fish hatchery. The old kilns are
overgrown with vines and shrubbery. The big old
house, re-arrang:ed and modernized, is a hotel under *'*2*
management of David Hunter, Superintendent for
the Maclntyre Iron Co., held as a game and fish pre-
serve for the use of members and friends. The

THE ADIRONDACKS.

rules of the club proclaim it a "close corporation,**

but no one understanding the circumstances can find
reasonable objection as the stringent regulations
adopted apply equally to all members, no one being
permitted to hunt or fish outside the ' season a=. es-
tp'ijlished by law, or to hunt at all except on regularly
appointed occasions. The Club Houses at Tahawus
and here, although primarily intended for the accom-
modations of club members, will provide fare for the
chance visitor. Price of accommodations is fixed at
$3 per day for, all persons except guides and servants,
and no person not a member of the club or their
guests, will be entertained for more than a single
night unless under pressing conditions.

From the Ruined Village to Calamity Pond is 5
miles ; to Lake Golden 7 miles ; to top of Marcy 12
miles. See pages 127-130. •

Lake Henderson is half a mile north of the
Ruined Milage. It is two miles long with its outlet
near the center, on the east. From its head a trail
leads to the Preston Ponds, the head of Cold River,
which fiv7v>.. N%e:" mto Raquette River below Long
Lake. Toward the noith we look up a gradual slope
through Indian Pass ; the dark green sides of Alcln-
tire coming steeply down on the east side with the
perpendicular cliffs of mighty Wallface on the west.

Indian Pass is among the grandest features of
the Adirondack Mountains. The distance through
from the Ruined Village to Adirondack Lodge is
about II milrs. By boat through Lake Henderson
reduces the walking distance about a mile. From the
head of Lake Henderson, for three miles, the rise is
gradual, then we begin to climb, crossing the rivulet
back and forth as we go upward, making long de-

THE ADIRONDACKS.

tours to the right, at times, ascending the mo-antain
some distance, and following a level stretch along its
sides until the wildly dashing torrent is reached once
more ; then upward and onward, the path growing wild-
er and more difficult as we proceed, the brooklet bound-
ing from rock to rock, now lost in some dark cavern,
now trickling down among the huge boulders or
gurgling in muffled music beneath our feet, anon
bursting out, to rest a moment in some mossy basin,
pure crystal in an emerald setting, on which float
fairy ships of leaves. We get occasional glimpses
through the trees of Great Wallface, appearing
perhaps but a shade or two darker than the blue
above until at last, through, an opening it comes
out; vast, grand, overwhelming immeasurable ! The
eye sees it hanging in mid-air, a cloud, an outline,
a color and bows beneath its aw^ul weight. The
giant pines that fringe its brow seem but bristling
hair the great rifts that scar its sides, but a
faint tracery of lines where cool gray shadows
or yellow sunlight, mayhap race swiftly across
or lay in slant bars along its misty face.
But the highest point is not reached yet; Ave are
just entering at the lower gate, and for nearly a mile
it is a continuous climb over great chaotic masses of
jagged rocks thrown down by some convulsion of
Nature, now on some huge fragment that seems ready
to topple over into the gulf below, now where han^
dripping mosses and sprawling roots — stooping,
crawling, clinging to projecting limbs, climbing
slippery ledges, upward all the time! At last we
stand on Lookout Point. Close by rises that grand
w^all a thousand feet. The bottom of the gorge is
three hundred feet below. The cliff reaches out
north and south, majestic, solemn and oppressive in
its nearness. A long line of great fragments have

THE ADIRONDACKS.

fallen year by year, and now lies at its foot.
Hugh caverns yawn on every side and mighty .
rocks rear their heads where He who rules the
earthquake cast them centuries ago. Along back,
down the gorge we look, to where — five miles
away and 1,300 feet below — is Lake Henderosn,
a shining drop in the bottom of the great emerald
bowl. As we have risen, the sweet gurgling
music of the infant Hudson has died away.
Then, as we pass onward, comes the familiar
sound once more^ — faintly at first, then more dis-
tinctly— the singing of little waters; first trick-
ling over rocks, then dancing downward, in-
creased in volume by tributary streams from the
slopes of Mclntire, dancing away toward the
north, the impetuous AuSable, twin brother at
birth and rocked in the same mountain sradle
with the mighty Hudson that goes rolling south-
ward to the sea.

Does it pay to go through Indian Pass? I
answer a thousand times yes. It costs a little
exertion, but the experiences and emotions of the
day will come back in a flood of recollections that
jLii.t the soul a little higher and makes one better
for a visit to that grand old mountain ruin.
***** *

Three miles from the Junction of the Tahawus
branch, 12 miles from Aiden Lair, the road
crosses the Hudson river and, a little beyond,
passes Lake Harris, noted for its big bass.

Lake Harris House standing here is a sub-
stantial building, comfortably furnished and with
modern improvements — accommodating about 50
guests. Rates $2 to $5.00 per day. The house is
lighted with acetylene gas and has furnace and
steam heat. John Anderson, Jr., proprietor. The
road was established long ago and had a narrow

THE ADIfiONDACKS. 1T3

fringe of land under cultivation, but seems to
have gone back to nature in places. Mr. Ander-
son's holding of 6,000 acres of woods and waters'
is nearly surrounded by miles of State land and
private preserves devoted to the propagation of
fish and game where hunting and fishing is only
by favor, is the ideal sporting ground and made
free to guests. In the past the condition of the
road has kept many away, but the loop of the new
state road now completed through Newcomb,
promises guests beyond capacity for entertain-
ment.

The Wayside Inn at Xewcomb, 1 1-4 mile west
of Lake Harris, is not too stylish for corduroys
and shirt waists, but is attractive and nicely fur-
nished, the fare abundant and wholesome. The
house is owned also by .John Anderson, Jr., and is
headquarters for his extensive land operations in
this section, but is a pleasant "wayside" to fall by,
and his manager here will make it comfortable for
thp visitor. Guides and all accessories for hunt-
ins- anri fishinsf can be had here at Newcomb.
There are daily mails and telephone connection
with the Western Union Telegraph. Additions
to the main house gives a large public room and
several very desirable sleeping rooms with hot
and cold water, private baths, large open fire
places, etc. The house is lighted with acetylene
gas. Rates $2 to $3.50 per day. Special at both
houses for long term for which address John An-
derson, Jr., Newcomb, N. Y. See page 274.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 175

A fairly good road leads westward 14 miles lo
Long Lake. A water route leads northwest
through Rich and Catlin lakes to Long Lake strik-
ing the latter near its outlet.

Long Lake is about 14 miles in length and 1
mile in width at the widest part, which is near
its outlet. It receives the waters of the Raquette
at its head, runs in a northeasterly direction and
gives them up to the Raquette River at its foot,
which, flowing northward, passes within about
2 miles of Upper Saranac Lake, then turns west,
touching the foot of Tupper Lake, thence north-
westerly past Potsdam to the St. Lawrence. Its
shores are strikingly diverse at different points,
showing bold cliffs, gentle slopes, overhanging
trees and beautiful sand beaches at intervals
along their extended stretch. It has several very
protty islands, the larger ones near the north
end.

Long Lake, with Raquette River, forms the
.'tgular highway between this section and the
Saranac region at the north. A steamer runs
mornings and afternoons (Sundays excepted) to
che foot of the lake and return. Fare 75 cents
one way. Round trip, $1.25.

The unsightly barns and dwellings which have
formerly obstructed the view from the Wayside
south with their accompanying land have been
acquired by Mr, Anderson and will be razed or
removed and the valley beyond flooded with com-
municating lakes and stocked with fish as a pri-
vate preserve. A deer park on the north extend-
ing from the house to the shores of the lake is
another scheme that has found lodgement in the
fertile brain of the land holder, in all of which
guests will be the beneficiaries,
page 272).

THE ADIROXDACKS. 177

Owl's Head Mountain, near the head of the
lake, on the west, is 2,825 feet high. Long Lake
is 1,614 feet above tide. To the west the country
is comparatively level. On the east is Mount
Kempshall;on the north is seen the blue serrated
summit of Mount Seward, 4,384 feet above tide.

Continuing northward down the outlet, which is
the Raquette River continued, Raquette Falls is
reached 6 miles below. Seven miles further is
junction with Stony Creek which leads from In-
dian Carry on the Upper Saranac, for which see
page 91.

Long Lake West on the Adirondack division of
the N. Y. Central, is the most convenient point of
entrance. The road (20 miles through burnt for-
est), is rather rough in places, but with light rigs,
not uncomfortable.

Long Lake Village lies a half mile east of the
lake. The section around about, although long
settled in spots, remains still among the wildest
of Adirondack sporting grounds.

The Adirondack House is on the east side, 4 1-2
miles from the heaH'^ the lake, where the road
from Newcomb crosses ovei*, going toward Long
Lake West. Rates, $2 to $2^.50 per day, $10-$18 per
week, D. B. MoynehaiiVproprietor. It has an
excellent table, good furnishings, baths, etc. (See

Carriage to Forked Lake (connecting with
Raquette Lake Steamer) by prearrangement, 2
people, $4.00;

The Sagamore stands on a bluff projecting
from the east shore of the lake, 4 miles from its
head. It has capacity for about 200 guests.
James H. Reardon, well known among hotel men,,
is proprietor. For rates apply.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Deerland Lodge is about 2 miles from the head
in a grove of tall pines on the abrupt eastern bank of
the lake, seven miles from Raquette and 8 miles
from Blue Mountain lake. Capacity of house
and 15 cottages, about 150 guests. Cottages have
open fires, baths and modern improvements, in-
cluding bath, hot and cold water. P.O. (Deerland;
and telephone is in the house. Golf (9 holes) on
the hotel property. Tennis, boating and bath-
ing are the standard amusements, added tc*
hunting and fishing for which accessories will be
furnished on application.. Hotel rates: Tran-
sients $3-$4 per day, $17.50 per week! (See pagp y
263.) Open June to November. A. D. Brown &V^
Co., propprietors.

Deerland may be reached via Long Lake West
(stage or private conveyance) or by Raquette
Lake Steamer to Forked Lake carry, thence by
carriage over new road 9 miles to the Lodge.
In the latter case arrangements must be made in
advance. Carriage charge for 2 people, with
light baggage, will be $4.00; 3 people, $5.00.
*********

Buttermilk Falls is reached by a half-mile carry
from the head of Long Lake and a like distance
up the winding inlet. Here the water dashes
foams over the rocks in a descent of about 20 feet,
the name, not very poetical, probably suggested by
the churning it gets in reaching bottom. This is
generally understood to be the "Phantom Falls,"
over which Murray went in his boat in pursuit of
the phantom form, as described in his early
chronicles of adventures in the wilderness. "A
very probable story for a minister to tell," said
my old guide to me once in passing. "Why, I
drove a brood of young ducks down over there
once — the old one knew better than to go — she
flew up stream; but they — a dozen of 'em — went
over, and only three came out alive. He talk of

THE ADIRONDACKS. 181

'shooting Buttermilk Falls' — there isn't Baptist
enough about him for that water. But there's
one thing he can 'shoot'; that's the long bow."
Alas for Mr. Murray's reputation for veracity!
His beautiful creations of fancy, conjured up by
that fertile brain, are held as witnesses against
him, simply because, in his lavish generosity, he
enricned tne common occurrences of every-day
life in the woods with the precious incense of
conceptive genius, and left a dazzled world to
separate the real from the ideal! The guides
took him literally, and, though then in the high
tide of his popularity, had come to the conclusion
that if his preaching was not a better guide to
Heaven than his book to the Adirondacks, his.
congregation might manage to worry along with
a cheaper man.

A carry around the falls, 1 1-2 miles of uncer-
tain boating and carry a like distance followed
by 1 1-2 mile boating and 1 1-2 carry (horse
draw-«ver, $1.50 for boat and duffle) lets into
Forked Lake, through which Raquette Lake is
reached. See page 197.

Forked Lake is north of Raquette Lake outlet, 5
miles long east and west, quite straight on its
south side, irregular along the north and opening
up into far-reaching bay — itself the main branch
on which is strung a succession of deep bays, with
intervening points extending from east to west.
*********

From North Creek to Blue Mountain Lake is 30
miles. See page 211. Stages run week-days from
North Creek to Blue Mt. Lake. Fare, $2.50.

North River is 5 miles on the way and is the
usual dining place.

The Ordway Hotel is the best house at North ,
River. W. H. Lynch, proprietor. This is prac- ^y
tically a new house — built in 1903 — and has mod-
ern fittings and conveniences, including steam

182 THE ADIROXDACKS.

heat and hot and cold water in all guests' rooms.
It will provide for 50 guests. Table is excellent.
Transient rates, dinner 75 cents, per day, $2.00.
By the week $10 to $12. Children, half price. It
is clean, wholesome and to be commended.
Thirteenth Lake (4 miles west of North River,
a fair road) is three miles long by one-half mile
wide, 1,952 feet above tide, and affords excellent
fishing.

A short distance above North River we leave
the river and climb up through a high notch at
the west, rising a thousand feet in something less
than four miles, then descending gradually, cross
a stretch of burnt land to Indian River. The In-
dian River Hotel, with capacity for 40 is here at
the crossing, 11 miles from North River. It is
frequented some by hunters, but is not specially
attractive or to be recommended. The Seven
Chain Lakes are north of Indian River about seven
miles, reached over an indifferent road.

Indian Lake (P. O.) is one mile west of
Indian River. A few houses at intervals
along the road, a hotel, stores, and a
postoffice constitute the village. Indian
Lake. (The lake proper) is about two miles
south of the village. The original lake was about
three miles long, but the "overflow" sets back in
times of high-water, increasing its length to some-
postofRce constitute the village.

The Commercial Hotel is a comfortable house and
spreads a good table. Edward Hickey, proprie-
tor. Rate $2.00, American plan.

Palmatier & McGinn, across the way from the
Commercial, provide for automobilists with gas,
oils, batteries, etc.

THE ADIROXDACKS. 183

The lake itself is 2 miles south of the village.
The orginal lake was about three miles long, but
the "overflow" sets back in times or high-water,

COMMERCIAL HOTEL

increasing its length to something more than
twelve miles. Lewey Lake is twelve miles south
of Indian Lake Village, a passable road continu-
ing south another dozen miles to Lake Pleasant,
where the "State road" is found leading out to
Northville- and Sacandaga Park.
..Cedar River House is about two miles west of
Indian Lake (20 miles from North Creek). F. E.
Wood, proprietor. Capacity, 30. Rates, $2-$2.50
per day; $8 to $12 per week.

Blue Mountain Lake is ten miles further, for
which see pages 211-215.

The Stone road from Albany continues through
Amsterdam. (Hotel Warner with a La Carte
service and garage) branching northward at
Tribes Hill to Gloversville. (The Kingsborough

THE ADIRONDACKS. 1S3-B

is new and thoroughly up-to-date, which autoists
will do well to remember). From Gloversville
the road runs north easterly to Sacandaga Park,
populous with cosy summer cottages and quite
suggestive of a mountain Coney Island in its
amusement features.

The Adirondack Inn among the trees here is de-
lightfully attractive and its genial host, C. O.
Chamberlin, a pleasure to know. Modern needs
are considered in garage and grills for the tran-
sient. Daily rates $3.00.

Northville is across the Sacandaga River a little
farther on and marks the end of the railroad and
the crossing of the stone road to the east bank.

From Wells you cross the river and take to the
woods climbing gradually upward along an ex-
ceedingly picturesque stream and on to Specula-
tor at the north end of Lake Pleasant.

Osborne Inn is on the shore of Lake Pleasant
at its northern extremity, where the road from
the south first touches the Lake. It is kept by
Mrs. William Osborne and offers a homelike en-
vironment notable even where wholesome wel-
come and entertainment is the rule rather than
the exception among inns. Rates to transients
are $2 to $3 per day. For early summer and late
autumn the price is special for which address the
proprietor. Guides and boats are furnished when
wanted and standard amusements provided.

The Lake Pleasant House is a little farther on.
A concrete walk runs to the bathing beach and
boat house adjoining. Fishing bats and guides
are provided on application. It is an old estab-
lished house under new management and new
fittings. Open the year round. Rates per day,
$2.00; by the week, from $10.00 to $14.00, with

THE ADlFtOXDACKS. 1S3-C

special rates to families, for which address the ^
proprietor. Lee L. Fountain. P. O. Speculator.

The Sturges House has been established here
for many years and has through all the time
bourne an excellent reputation. From youth on it
has been the pride of the couple now venerable
and enjoying a well earned rest while still wel-
coming the hoste of friends their right living has
brought around them. Comforts of the homely
kind are here found with wholesome fare and a
royal w^elcome. For the actively incined guides
and hunting and fishing outfits are provided.
Rates $2.00 per day; $10 to $12 per week, with
special for families and for months of June, Sep- .
tember and October. David Sturges. proprietor, t/

Camp Perkins, 6 1-2 miles beyond Speculator,
is of logs and an excellent example of primal
conditions in Adirondack hotels. The accommo-
dations are substantial and the fare robust. The
road for ten miles northward, though passable for
cars in favorable weather, is not to be com-
mended. It should not be undertaken in a wet
season. At Lewey Lake it grows better and
along the west shore of Indian Lake is good. (For
Indian Lake see page 182).

184

THE ADIRONDACKS.

CHAPTER IX.

M/\LONEI67C
LAK£ TITUJ jS
Mountain viEy^c.

C)t\lWOlO PAR^
HORSE SHO£

CHATEAU6AY 179

UON MT. 162

N LAKf H2

KUSMA(JUA 138

RAINBOW L 132

SMITH'S 130

^RAt<At LAKE 131

The Great West Lake Region^

UTICA 95 miles west of Albany, may be termed
gateway No. g althou-^h for a tact it supersedes
most of the old western gateways, and divides with

east-side lines the
patronage of the
important central
resorts. From
this point the Adi-
rondack Division
of the New York
Central extends
in a northeasterly
direction, c e n -
trail y through the
lake region of the
Adir on dack s,
passing ah out
two miles westot
the Fulton Chain
to Tuppcr Lake ;
thence around
the head of Up-
per S a r a n a c
Lake, with a
branch to the
Lower Lake ; thence northerly past Rambow and
Loon Lakes to Malone. Trains leave Grand

f9 ■^^ '46

, UTICA

236 NIUES FROM

THE ADIRONDACKS. 185

Central Station, New York, morning and evening,
composed of Wagner Vestibule Buffet Drawing-room
and Sleeping Cars, running through without change
to Fulton Chain Lakes, Childwold, Tupper Lake,
Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's, Loon Lake, Malone,
Montreal, and Ottawa-

The road from Herkimer north is the most pictur-
esque; the one from Utica the most direct with the
best train service. The two come together at Rem-
sen. White Lake is well up in the air but its waters
are not in evidence from the station. Otter Lake is
wild and woodsy enough. McKeever, 43 miles
from Utica, is a big lumber mill with its accompany-
ing business, and a saw-dust beach beside a made
pond covered with logs awaiting desiccation.

Moose River House is 4 miles west of Mc-
Keever ; capacity about 30.

* * -Sf * * * *

Fulton Chain (station) is 281 miles from New
York. Here is the old Arnold clearing, which a cen-
tury ago promised to become a centre of consider-
able importance. This section is often spoken of as
the *' Brown Tract," and comprehends the lands
lying around the head-waters of the Moose River, so
named after John Brown, of Providence, R. I. (who
must not be confounded with that other John
Brown the "Old Man of Ossawatomie," who lies
buried at North Elba), who became its owner in 1793.
A son-in-law. Baron Herreshoff also came and under
his direction a large forge was built below the first of
the Fulton Chain of Lakes and the manufacture of
iron begun. With science and enthusiasm linked, as
the chronicle relates the baron threw heart and soul
into the enterprise and finally — when he found that
it had cost a dollar a pond to make the iron — threw
himself into the hole which they had dug and called
on the men to cover him over. Later to end the affair
he shot and killed himself.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 187

Old Forge to-day is quite a thriving town with
stores, churches, land improvement agencies and
other indications of thrifty growth. A spur from
the main line at Fulton Chain iwo miles distant,
lands passengers at the dock where the steamers
start with varying rates of speed for various
points along the Chain of Lakes.

The Adirondack, at Old Forge, is a worthy lit-
tle house suggestive of an English inn. Tlie fare
is good and rates moderate — $8-$12 per week;
$1.50 per day. Miss Ella Hughes, proprietor.

Automobile stage runs from Old Forge to all
passenger trains at Fulton Chain. Fare 25 cents.

The Forge House overlooks the station and
steamboat landing and is a convenient stop over
place in going north or south. Transient rates,
$3 to $4 per day. A. M. Briggs, proprietor.

Fulton Chain is composed of eight lakes, their
combined length being about 20 miles. The chief
life is centered in the section between and around
Old Forge and the head of Fourth Lake. The Old
Forge dam renders the stream above navigable
and makes First, Second, and Third Lakes, practi-
cally one sheet of water. Rounding a sandy point
on which is the summer camp of Dr. Nichols, of
St. Louis, you enter Second Lake through a broad
opening, where on the east side, hidden among
trees, was the summer camp of the late President
Harrison. At the northeast a narrow passage
leads into Third Lake.

Bald Mountain House is at the head of Third
Lake, five miles from Old Forge. C. M. Barrett,
proprietor. House and cottages will provide for
about 150 guests. The central building has open

THE ADIRONDACKS.

fire-places and wood stoves, electric bells and is
lighted by gas, presenting a general air of com-
fort which is very attractive. The grounds are
ample, opening out into the virgin forest at the
west and north. Hunting and fishing enter into
the amusements of the place. Regular mail and
telephones place the visitors in sufficiently close
communication with the outer world.

The table is exceptionally good and wholesome,
the proprietor assiduous in his duties, and the
place altogether is one to be commended. Rates
are $2.50 to $4 per d,ay; $16 to $28 per week. See
page 273.

Bald Mountain lies at the west of Third Lake,
the trail leading away from the Bald Mountain
House. The ascent is by a gentle rise save at one
point near the summit, where a breath-taking
climb is necessary to scale the height, thence
along its back-bone of rock to the top. From this
point — the highest in this section — an extraordin-
arily fine view of lake and wilderness is had, show-
ing almost the whole of the first four lakes of the
chain.

Fourth Lake is the largest of the chain, being 6
miles in length. It is entered just beyond Bald
Mountain House through a short passageway bend-
ing like a letter "s." The opening view is a genu-
ine surprise, revealing a broad sheet of water, the
shore lined for some distance on the left with cot-
tages of varying colors, with hints of others here
and there on the right where they stretch away
into the distance and are lost beyond one promin-
ent island. There are upwards of a hundred cot-
tages grouped on the shores of this lake. A road
extending along the west and north sides accom-
modates the many cottagers, and the new railroad

THE ADIRONDACKS. 191

which comes from Clearwater station soon joins it,
continuing eastward to Raqiiette Lake. The prin-
cipal hotels of the section are on this lake. In ad-
dition are a number of camps where entertainment
can be obtained at varying prices, according to
accommodations, ranging from $7 to $20 per week.
At the right on entering the lake is The Manhas-
sitt. "Camp Fulton" is among the trees on the
west shore, kept by Mrs. F. L. Payne. Camps On-
ondaga are on the north shore about midway of
the lake. $1 to $3 per day; $8 to $12 week. p. 239.

Becker's Camp is at Big Moose Landing, on the
north shore, i-4 mile from Fair View station. Fred
Becker, proprietor.

The Mohawk, a fine new house standing back
of Camp Mohawk cottages, is a fine specimen of
hotel construction.

Eagle Bay Hotel is at the northernmost point of
Fourth Lake where the Raquette Lake railroad
touches, then takes to the woods again.

Cedar Island, midway of the lake between Eagle
Bay and Arrowhead, is well covered by the various
buildings which constitute the hotel accommoda-
tions. A. G. Delmarsh, manager. Rates, $14-$21
week; $2-$3 day. Dollar Island, in a line between
Cedar Island and Rocky Point Inn, affords room
for a modest little cottage. It is needless to re-
mark that the name does not indicate the price.

Rocky Point Inn is on a thin promontory project-
ing centrally from the east end of the lake. The
point continuing ends in Pagoda Island. Rates $4
per day, $15-$28 per week. A. G. Delmarsh, pro-
prietor.

Bear Mountain (or Bare Mountain as you like)
and Rocky Mountain overlook the head of the lake

THE ADIRONDACKS. 135

and give wonderfully interesting views of lake and
forest. Good trails lead to the top

The Wood is a new name to an old established
resort known formerly as Hess Camp standing on
high land at the east end of the lake. Capacity of
house and cottages about 100. Rates $3 and up
per day, $12 up per week. P. O., Inlet, N. Y.
All the essentials for sport can be secured here in
form of fishermen's outfits, boats, guides and
camp supplies and the fund of woodsy information
possessed by the proprietor who is an old hunter
of note is placed freely at the disposal of guests. ,
(See page 247). P. C. Wood, formerly of the Forge j/
House, the new proprietor has worked wonders
in reconstruction and improvements, in doubling
the capacity of the house, in eliminating the un-
sightly and beautifying the grounds, and still greets
guests with the same welcome that won such a
host of friends at the Old Forge in past seasons.

The Arrowhead stands in a grove of birches at
the mouth of the Inlet with accomodations for
about 125. Rates $2 to $4 per day, $12 and up- y
ward per week. C. A. O'Hara, proprietor. Inlet t^
Inn on the still w^aters of the inlet a few steps
beyond the Arrowhead, is utilized for the over-
flow from the larger house. A well equipped
store in the Inn supplies general merchandise
and fancy work. The altitude of the Arrowhead
is officially given as 1717 feet above tide. The
steamboat trip ends here, the boats starting on
the return at convenient intervals to connect at
Eagle Bay with trains for Raquette Lake and for
outside points.

CHAPTER X.

Raquette Lake, Blue Mountain Lake
AND Long Lake.

RAQUETTE LAKE is composed of a great mass
of bays, separated by far-reaching points ex-
tending east and west. Its greatest length is only
about five miles measured through islands and inter-
vening headlands ; yet so irregular is its shape that
the shore line in its devious windings is over 40 miles
in extent. The first house built at Raquette Lake
stood on Indian Point, where
an effort was made at farm-
ing; a twenty years' strug-
gle, however, ended in its
abandonment, and when I
passed by in 1873, only one
lone man— old Alvah Dun-
nmg-, lived, Robmson Cru-
soe-like on Osprey Island,
with his dogs for compan-
ions— monarch of the beau-
tiful lake, the Sabbath still-
ness broken only by an
occasional party in camp or
passing boat. Later, Alvah
gave up possession of this island and built a little
cabin at the mouth of the Brown Tract Inlet. Now
how different the scene ! A fibre from the throbbing
mass of travel has pierced the depths, and its shores
are ceeming with life. Now swift trains, bearing
the dust of the great city A^et on their wheels, and
busy steamers, meet to exchange their loads of com-

alvah dunning.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 199

fort-seekers on the spot where but a little while
ago stood the lonely camp of the old hunter.

The Raquette Lake Railway is nineteen miles
long, extending from Clearwater on the main line
to Raquette Lake. The motive power is steam
generated by oil. The local fare is 5 cents per
mile. Lake steamboats running to the various
hotels and camps, connect here with trains.
Through sleepers run to and from New York,

Raquette Lake is the embrio town at the term-
inus of the railroad and the distributing point for
Raquette and Blue Mountain Lake matter. See
map on page 214. From this point steamers
of the Raquette Lake Transportation Company, of
which Dr. W. Seward Webb is president and Mau-
rice Callahan, superintendent, run to local land-
ings on arrival of trains, while the line boat starts
for Marion River Carry, where close connection is
made with steamer for Blue Mountain Lake.
Through fare, $1.25. Round trip ticket for one
day. $2. Carriages for Long Lake will meet boats
at Forked Lake carry by prearrangement. (See
page 179).

Raquette Lake Hotel is near the station look-
ing out over the lake. It is owned by P. Moy-
nehan, millionaire lumberman of Glens Falls. /
George C. :peardon is Lessee and Manager. The */
house is modern in equipment with good rooms,
electric lights, baths and sanitary plumbing. It
has ample piazzas and Is convenient to the sta-
tion, post and telegraph offices. The table is
wholesome and abundant. Rates $2.50 up per
day; $12.50 up per week according to room and
service. (See page 256).

Time is ordinarily given for breakfast and din-

THE ADIRONDACKS. 201

ner here between arrival and departure of boats
and trains.

"The Antlers" is a hotel on the colonization plan,
a collection of camps and cottages which may be
rented at room rates, and a large central building
containing assembly and dining rooms with a pic-
turesque casino at the landing, with its boats, bil-
liards, social hall, store of sporting goods and
curios. Rates are $4.00 per day; $21 and upward
per week. Table board, $17.50 per week. For
particular address C. H. Bennett.

Brightside Cottages are almost hidden among
the trees on the south side of Indian Point. Be-
side the building shown which contains the glass-
enclosed dining room, is a larger building, which
with detached cottages, gives accommodation for
75 guests. There is no bar at Brightside, and
neither Hebrews nor those afflicted with pulmon-
ary troubles should apply. The proprietor is a
sportsman and very freely imparts information of
interest. Paths lead from the landing trails
through the forest along shore and backward to
The Crags, 230 feet above the lake, from which a
magnificent view may be had. Steamer stops 4
times daily. Cottages are lighted by gas. Rates
are $3 per day; $15 and upward per week. Special
for June and October. J. O. A. Bryere, proprietor. ^
See page 264.

Sunset Camp is on Woods Point, seen on the
north, as Marion River is approached. The house
with rustic cottages and open camps affords ac-
commodations for 85 guests. The steamboat lands
when required to discharge passengers and bag-
gage. The proprietor is Richard Bennett, a noted ^
guide and hunter, who has spent a quarter of a
century in the woods gathering information about

THE ADIRONDACKS. 203

wild things that run and swim. He gives freely
an : guests are welcome to draw from the fund.
To those who are so timid as to feel the need of a
physician in the wilderness it may be well to state
that Dr. J. E. Harety of New York spends his ^^
summers at Sunset Camp. Sunset Camp launch
meets all trains at station. A second launch
(new) is for special service to guests.

The nevv dir.irg room, finished in native wood,
spacious and well lighted, is a pleasing feature of
1905. Price of board is $2.50 and up per day;
$15.00 and up per week. See page 272.

The Churches of Raquette Lake are unique.
"The Church of the Mission of the Good Shepherd"
(Episcopalian) is on St. Hubert's Isle. Services
a. . conducted regularly here during the summer,
the officiatirg clergyman occupying the little rec-
tory close beside the church. "St. William's" (R.
C.) is at the right (south) as Marion River Bay is
entered. Services are held here also during the
season.

The School System of Raquette Lake is original.
No heavy-footed school-boy on his lagging way
there — but instead a comfortable naphtha launch,
manned and captained by the schoolmaster him-
self, which goes tie round of nearly 20 miles to
gather in the 15 to 20 pupils and convey them to
the halls of learn irg near the R. C. Church, where ^
the master tahes np the ferule and the book until
the time comes when, in like manner as the gath-
ering, he re-distributes the budding promises
plucked in the dewy morning. The launch cost
$800. The operating expenses are little, fluctuating
slightly accordirg to t^p nrice of oil and — great-
est of all — it robs school-days of their horror be-

204-206 THE ADIRONDACKS.

sides offerin' an occasional chance for a bit of
fishin'. It is now proposed to add rural free deliv-
ery by boat to the lake-shore residents.

The Camps of Raquette Lake are elegant. Al-
though built of rustic material found ready to
hand, it is found that twisted cedar, shaggy spruce
and silvery birch, in their native vestments, were
not chosen because they cost nothing. Some of
these camps are works of art, and filled with
dainty bric-a-brac, generally, pertaining to woodsy
things in keeping with their native environment.

One of the features of the wilderness camp is
that it is never really completed. It is bound by
no rule of time or architecture. It expands and
blossoms with the passing season, and is never
exactly the same one year that it was the year be-
fore, though always finished enough for comfort.

William West Durant has been an indefatigable
worker and prime factor in the development of
this section. When, in the winter of '76-'77, he be-
gan the building of "Pine Knot," it was practically
in an unbroken wilderness. Alvah Dunning had
his camp on Osprey Island, and a Mr. TenEyck had
an old log hut near West Bay. The old "Helms"
place and the Woods place were deserted and un-
inhabitable. There were no other places on Raqu-
ette Lake at that time. The following spring
Isaac Kenwell put up a house, which he afterwards
moved across the lake, and in the spring of 1877,
Chauncey Hawthorn came down to Raquette Lake
and started his camp at Golden Beach. Upwards
of $75,000 was spent on Camp Pine Knot, whj'^i>
was finally sold to ihe late Collis P. Huntington.
Camp Uncas, on Mohegan Lake, was begun in the
spring of 1893 and took three years in the building.
Over $120,000 was expended on that property,

THE ADIRONDACKS. 207

which was sold to J. Pierepont Morgan, its present
owner. Sagamore Lodge, situated on Sagamore
Lake, was commenced in 1897, and completed in
the spring of 1900. It has gas and water works
and is heated by furnace as well as fire-places.
This camp belongs to Alfred G-wynne Vanderbilt.
The camp on Sumner Lake was sold to Lieut.-Gov.
Timothy L. Woodruff, enlarged by the new owner,
and now known as Camp Killkare. Each of these
palatial camps are surrounded by quite extensive
territory belonging to them and are reached over
excellent roads cut through virgin forest especially
for that purpose, the main road leading from Un-
cas Road Station on the Raquette Lake Railroad.
All these, with others at Newcomb and other
points, were designed and built by the same head
and hand. His was a gentle spirit that conceived
and builded in rare harmony with nature, and the
misfortune of his passing, already felt, will be
clearer as the years go by.

Years ago both moose and elk were found in the
Adirondacks. The former were plentiful here in
the last century, but soon after disappeared. It is
very probable that the principal factor in the ex-
tinction of the Adirondack moose was not his own
emigration from the region, as some have main-
tained, but the murderous rifles of the skin and
market hunters (white and red), at a time when
there were no game laws, and when very little sen-
timent in ff'vor of the protection of game existed.
The last positive authentic killing of a native
moose in this State occurred in the autumn of
1861, when a guide of Long Lake named Palmer
killed one on the Marion River. The elk left this
region at a much earlier period, and comparatively
few persons are now even aware that this majestic
deer ever existed here, yet the fact is beyond ques-
tion.

208 THE ADIRONDACKS.

December, 1900, an association was formed with
the object of inducing the State to take up the
work of re-stocking the forest with royal game
that had become extinct. Hon. Warren Higley of
New York became president, and Harry V. Rad-
ford, secretary. In 1901 the association obtained
the passage of an act in the New York Legisla-
ture authorizing the State Forest, Fish and Game.
Commission to "acquire by gift, purchase or cap-
ture a sufficient number of wild moose to stock
the Adirondack region," and appropriating for the
accomplishment of this project the sum of $5,000.
June 23d of the same year the late William C.
Whitney, one of the vice presidents of the asso-
ciation, presented to the state a herd of 22 elk,
which were liberated at the foot of Raquette Lake,
where the carry to Forked Lake begins.

Mr. Radford was also instrumental in procuring
the passage of a bill, which became a law, ap-
propriating $1,500 for the purchase of wild beavers
to be liberated in the Adirondacks as well as the
somewhat experimental one protecting the black
bear which is now on trial.

The Marion River is one of the crookedest
rivers in the world. It has no perceptible current
along its reedy shores, but i^^anders back and forth
between the low hills, in a succession of loops,
making the way traversed, which is about two
miles in a straight line, double that distance be-
fore the head of navigation is reached.

At Marion River Carry is the landing platform
and the open sheds and open cars in which the
half mile of railroad across the Carry is traversed.
The motive power furnished is in a little locomo-
tive which, when practicable, pushes the passen-

THE ADIRONDACKS. 209

gers across that their sight and enjoyment of the
way may be more complete.

Carry Inn is midway of the Carry. It had mod-
ern furnishings, baths and plumbing, and running
hot and cold water, but like a number of other en-
terprises set afoot by Mr. Durant, it, with his re-
moval from active management, has fallen into a
state of "innocuous desuetude."

At the eastern terminus of the Marion River
railroad a rustic pavilion covers the steamboat
dock. Here the Blue Mountain steamers are taken
and, almost immediately, the way opens out into
Utowana Lake. This lake is about 2 miles in
length, narrow and almost straight away east and
west.

John Daly, an old-time proprietor of "The
Hemlocks," is building a hotel on the north shore
near the west end. Except for this opening the
forest is unbroken. At the east another stream is
entered which leads into Eagle Lake.

Eagle Lake is little more than a mile in length.
It is also wild except for a cleared portion on the
north towards its east end. Here in 1856 came
"Ned Buntline" and here he wrote, and hunted,
and filled the mind of the public with wild reports
of his erratic doings to his heart's content. He
married a wife, and buried her, here, and then,
tired of the old place, drifted out into the world
again. He was foremost in organizing the order
of the "United Americans" and the "Patriotic Or-
der Sons of America." He died July 16, 1886, at
his mountain home, the "Eagle's Nest," in Dela-
ware County, N. Y. A bit of the old log "Eagle's
Nest," roofed over like a shrine, is here, between
the present club buildings and the dock where the
boat lands.

210

THE ADIRONDACKS.

Ned Buntline (Edward Z. C.Judson) was bom
at Stamford, N. \'., March 20, 1823^ His adventur-
ous career began in early childhood. He killed his
lirst deer when eight 3'ears of age, ran off to sea at
eleven, was promoted * to midshipman when only
thirteen, the same year fought seven duels with fellow-
midshipmen who refused
to mess with him on ac-
count of his suppor,ed in-
feriority, aija threatened
to deplete the whole bud-
ding navy unless he was
acknowledged as an
equal. The navy wilted!
He served with credit in
the Seminole war, and in
the Mexican war, and
when the war cloud broke
over the South, his
venturesome spirit called
him . to the field once
more. Five wounds by
sabre and bullet, one of
which made him lame for life, testify to his service for
the country he served so proudly and gladly, while
with fine scorn he refused the proffered pension.
Later, at intervals, as novelist, dramatist, actor and
temperance advocate he filled the public mind like —
no one under the sun but only "Ned Buntline " the
irrepressible. His first story, " The Captain's Pig,"
was published in his fifteenth year. As a writer of
" Frontier Fiction " he was unexcelled. Buffalo Bill,
Texas Jack, and Wild Bill were made famous by his
stories of border life. His income as a story writer
amounted to $20,000 annually. His literary produc-
tions would make more than two hundred large vol-
umes.

NED BUNTLINE.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 211-213

The Eagle's Nest Golf Links formed a part of
the Durant scheme of improvements, and much
moEey was expended here. The property is now
held for private uses.

Memorial Bridge spans the old outlet of Blue
Mountain Lake, now side-tracked for the straight
channel dug for the easier passage of steamboats.
It is of heavy rustic design, resting on massive
stone abutments, erected to the memory of Dr.
Thomas Clark Durant, as shown by the bronze
tablet let into the masonry.

Blue Mountain Lake is an irregular oval, nearly
3 miles its longest way, resting 1,800 feet above
tide. As it opens up with our approach we see on
the right the summer camp of Col. Duryea of New
York. On a low point farther on is "The Utowana,"
built in 1881, but proved in advance of the needs
of the section, and is now closed. Beyond, in
the bight of the bay, is the little hamlet of Blue
Mountain Lake, with postoffice, stores and The
Lake View Hotel.

The Blue Mountain House is seen on a spur of
the mountain, straight away as the view opens,
200 feet above the lake, about a mile beyond the
last landing. Capacity of house and cottages 100.
Rates, $2.50 to $3.50 day, $10.50 to $21.00 week.
Open June to November. Telegraph, telephone
and postofRce, "Towahloondah," in the house. M.
Tyler Merwin, proprietor. Garage at the Blue
Mountain House. The view is one of the loveliest
imaginable, revealing the lake in its en-
tirety with the island studded plain below, the
receding shores leading away to the outlet.

THE ADIRONDACKS.

215

A fleet of daiuty Adiroudack boats lie snugly ia boat-
house, or at rest on the sandy beach. The fare
is wholesome, abundant and cleanly.

Stages run from Blue Mountain Lake to Long
Lake daily on arrival of mid-day boat. Fare, $1.50.
See page 272.

Garage at the Blue Mountain House.

8LUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE
AND PROPRIETOR

216 THE ADIKONDACKS.

Big Moose Lake lies five miles in an air line
north of Fourth Lake on the Fulton Chain, and
two miles east of the Big Moose station on the
Adirondack division of the N. Y, C. and H. R.
R. R. This is quite a picturesque section
and round the lake are grouped a number
cl very satisfactory places of entertainment.

Beaver River (Station), is about 20 miles north
of Fulton Chain (30 1-2 from New York). A
small steamer runs from the landing down the
river to Beaver Club House, carrying mails,
and road leads west to"*the Fenton House.

Tiie Fenton House is at Beaver Lake, C.
Fenton Parker, proprietor. P. O. address,
Number Four, Lewis Co. Rates, $2 per day;
$10-$12 per week. Open April to December.
This point is best reached via the R. W. &
O. R. R. to Lowville, thence by daily
stage (buckboard) 18 miles to this point.
Fare $2. Beaver Lake is 1 1-2 miles in length. A
small body of water, closely connected on the
south, is called Beaver Pond. Crooked Lake may
be reached by boat, 1 1-2 miles, and carry to the
north 1 3-4 miles.

Lake Bonaparte (station) is 18 miles from Car-
thage on the Carthage & Adirondack R. R. Here
in 1828, came Joseph Bonaparte, who under his
younger brother, the great Napoleon, had been
kirg of Naples in 1806 and king of Spain in 1808,
built "The Hermitage" on the shore of the lake,
which was within the 150,000 acres wbich he had
purchased here. The ruins of the old Hermitage
still remain.

The New Hermitage is a hotel with capacity
for 1.^0 2nests. Dnvir] Scanlan, proprietor. Rates
$2-$2.50 per day. P. O. Bonaparte.

THE ADIRONDACKS. 217

Benson Mines is 43 miles from Carthage. From
this the Cranberry Lake Railroad runs (6 miles)
to Wanakena, at the foot of Inlet Rapids, where
steamers are taken for points on Cranberry Lake.

Cranberry Lake is one of the largest bodies of
water in the Great Wilderness, covering perhaps
with its present overflow more surface than any
other. It is 1,540 feet above tide and surrounded
by forests that remai^i among the very wildest in
the State.

Hotel Wanakena at Wanakena station will pro- ^
vide for 125. W. A. Bean, proprietor.

Bear Mountain Camp is on the main lake 3.
miles from the outlet. Capacity 50. J. i\I. Balder-
son, proprietor.

The New Columbian Park Hotel on the west
shore near the outlet will provide for 75. Neil >
Shaw, proprietor. *^

Cranberry Lake Inn in the village at the north
end of the lake is owned by the Emporium Lum.-
ber Company. Capacity 60.

The White Birch will provide for 40. Edwin .
Aldrich, proprietor. Address as above for par- ^
ticulars.

CHAPTER XII.

Trout Fishing. Flies, Suggestions, Etc.
By A. Nelsoji Cheney.

N New York State there are but two species of trout
native to its waters, the common brook or speckled
trout, Salvelinus fonti?ialis, and the lake trout mis-
called salmon trout, Salvelinus naniaycush. Other
trov.t have been generously introduced into very many
(;f the liikco, ponds and streams of the State, notably
the brown trout, Salnio farlo, which is the common
l-roolc trout of Eu'-ope, and which our National Fish
Conimission has decreed shall be known as the " von
Behr trout," because the fish were first sent to this
country by the late Dr. von Behr, President of the
j-erraan Fisher}^ Association ; the Loch Leven trout
"rom the lake of the same name in Scotland, and the
rainbow trout from the Pacific slope. All of these
fish have been planted in Adirondack waters, the na-
tive trout to restock the waters and the other specie?
to add to the variety. It is quite; out of the question
in the limits of this chapter to give any hard and fast
rules or directions for successful fishing, and what fol-
lows may be regarded as suggestions only. At the
present time trout fishing in the Adirondacks is con«
fined to the two native species, the lake trout of the
large, deep, cold lakes, and the brook trout of the
streams and ponds, for they are brook trout, as we
have learned to call them, whether caught in moun-
tain brook, river, pond or lake, but I shall write of
them as found in the streams.

When the ice has gone from the streams and ponds,
and the sun has warmed the waters a trifle, brook
trout will be found in the deep water and holes of the

THE ADIRONDACKS.

brooks, and it is hard work to get them to rise to a fly.
They probably know that flies are out of season at
this time. If the fishing fever is on, you must take a
plebian Avorm and let it lie on the bottom until it is
sucked in by some lazy trout; then "yank." A
little later, when the snow wa^er is a thing of the
past, and the fruit trees are in bloom, and the black
fly and the May fly are out to devour and be devoured,
and the lazy trout, by exercise on the riffs and in
rough water, has become an athlete, then take your
rod, attach the patrician fly, and cast ever so gently
at the head of the riffs, where a stone makes a little
eddy, working down gradually to the pool at the foot
of the rapids, where the heads of the family "re-
ceive," if they have not already anticipated your
visit by going up the riffs like a quarter-horse, and
taken your fly with a leap that shows you what you
have to contend with. As the weather grows warmer
they will drop back to the deep shady holes, invigora-
ted and fattened by their visit to the'graveled-bottom
rapids. It may be that you will now be obliged to re-
turn to the worm or to a live chub or shiner, or the
tail of either, that when it is let down into the hole
with the current and drawn up stream, it will whirl
like a thing of life. I say you may be obliged to re-
sort to this, for there are holes in streams where it
would be folly to attempt to cast a fly. If a person
wishes to pass them by because he never fishes with
other than a fly, some one not so fastidious may come
after and bring to basket some of the oldest inhabi-
tants of the brook. Should you fish one day and find
that the trout are all seeking the seclusion of the
deep holes and the evening, night or next day brings
a shower to slightly raise the brook, as soon as the
shower is over try it again, but fish the rapids, for the
trout will have come out to see what the flood has
brought for them to feast upon. A little later the

THE ADIRONDACKS.

deep holes get warm by reason of low water and con-
tinued hot weather. The trout have their resorts at
this season as well as the angler, and so they take
their families and travel to some portion of the stream
where a cold spring comes in, or bubbles up from the
bottom. At these "spring holes" the trout will be
found in hot weather in great numbers, if the game
law has been observed.

As to flies, most people have their own ideas ; but
it may be well to say that out of the countless num-
ber of flies, some of them unlike an^^hing under the
sun, the red, black, brown and gray hackles, tied
both as a plain hackle and palmer fashion ; coach-
man, yellow professor, light and dark fox, black
gnat, green drake, March bro^\Ti, fin fly, white miller,
Montreal, Parmachene Belle, grizzly king, and
queen of the water, constitute a good supply if one
takes a half dozen of each. Even this is considered
by some too many. I think I am safe in saying that
the largest trout are caught at dusk or during star-
light or moonlight nights ; if I am too broad in
making this assertion I will modify it by sa}dng large
trout may be caught at this time by using a white
miller, or a fly in which white predominates ; and,
too, you must use a larger hook than the one you used
during the day. If you have noticed a large trout in
the stream during the day, and been unable to catch
him, try him at night, if it is bright, and you may be
reasonably sure of his rising to your light colored fly.
Sometimes you may catch an obstinate fellow by go-
ing above his resting place and slightly roiling the
stream, and as the muddy water passes over, let your
fly float as naturally as possible with it, and the
chances are in favor of your getting the trout. He
probably knows that roUy water means a freshet, and

THE AUIRONDACKS 231

a freshet biings with it insects upon wnich he feeds.
The latter portion of May, the months of June and
July are considered the best portions of the open sea-
son for fishing in the Adirondacks, and morning and
evening the best portion of the day, as the trout are
then seeking their natural food ; but the ways of the
trout are often past finding out, for there are times
when they will bite at nothing.

I might give directions for fly casting, but at best
written directions are very unsatisfactory, and the
novice will gain more of real benefit from a few les-
sons given by a fly fisherman than from all the in-
structions ever written.

The coachman for trout is as standard as the Jock
Scott or silver doctor for salmon, and for many years
stood first in my estimation as a trout fly. A half
dozen or more years ago Mr, R. B. Marston, editor o"^
the Fishing Gazette, London, sent me some samples
of the Marston' s Fancy, a fly that was named for
him, and I found it to be more killing than the coach-
man in small streams where the trout are highly edu-
cated in entomology, and my fly books are now never
without a supply of these flies. As to tackle get a
split bamboo, hornbeam, or ash and lance wood rod
of three joints, about eleven feet long, weighing
eight to ten ounces. This with an extra tip or tips,
one a little shorter than the others, will answer for
both bait and fly, unless you propose to " yank " your
fish, in which case you need heavier timber ; a click
reel to hold forty yards of braided silk, tapered line,
waterproof ; a half-dozen leaders or casting lines nine
feet long, of best round silkworm gut ; a supply of
sneiied hooks tied upon O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey
hooks, with a landing net of coarse mesh, will consti-
tute an outfit for brook trout in the Adirondacks. It
is poor economy to buy poor tackle • if you get any get
the best, even if you get less.

THE ADIROINUACKS.

While I advise O'Shaughnessey or Kinsey snelled
hooks for bait fishing, I believe the best hook on which
to dress a fly is the Pennell-Limerick or Pennell-
Sneck, hook made by W. Bartleet & Sons, the former
for large flies and the latter for small ones.

Bait fishing is not to be sneered at. But if yot:
must use bait, take your angle or earth worm after it
is scoured in damp moss, and pass your hook through
the neck half an inch from the head, then gathering
up a loop of the body and pass through again and again
until you have the shank, as well as the beard of the
hook, well covered and half an inch of " worm " over.
Should your worm-loop, or head, or tail be taken off
and the fish not taken in, put on a fresh bait. Unless
you have some decided objection fish down stremn. If
you use live bait (minnows), pass your hook through
its back under the dorsal fin, but not so low as to-
break the back bone ; should you use a portion of a
tninnow, cut off the tail just at the dorsal fin ; put
your hook in at the tail, and along the back bone,
until the point of the hook nearh' reaches the place
cut ; your bait will then be curved to correspond with
the bend of the hook, and will whirl nicely when
drawn against the current.

The Lake trout, although it will take a ' fly at
times, is usually caught by trolling'. The 77iodu^
operandi is as follows : With a springy trolling rod, a
balance mukiplying reel to hold loo yards of braided
silk, or linen line No. 4, leaders 6 feet long of single
gut, and a minnow gang, which is made by tying 6, 9
or 12 hooks in groups of three to a length of twisted
gut with a single lip hook about one and a half inches
above the upper group of hooks, a gaff hook, and a
pail of minnows completing the outfit. Lake trout fish-
ing is in order as soon as the ice leaves the lakes, for
then the fish are at the surface of the water and it is
really the only time that they afford sport in the

THE ADIRONDACKS. 223

catching, as it cannot be considered sport to troll
with a heavy sinker at the bottom in 100 or more
feet of water, so put your rod together, put on
your reel, pass your line through the standing
guides of your rod, attach your leader andi min-
now gang, put the lip hook through both lips of
the live bait, bend the bait and put one of the
group hooks through the back of the bait behind
the back fin in such a manner as to maiie it re-
volve slowly through the v/ate. Of late years I
have used the Archer Spinner in place of the
gang, for when the minnow is impaled on the
spindle of the spinner it must v\^hirl, and the
wings of the spinner hold the minnow fast and
thus it is a bait saver, an important matter in
spring trolling when bait fish is scarce.

Buoy fishing for lake trout is practical by an-
choring a block of v/ood, as a bouy in some deep
portion of the lake. Morning and evening, for
two or three days, bait your bouy by throvv^ing
overboard bits of fish but up about the size of a
butternut; this will generally attract the fish and
keep them around the buoy. When you think the
buoy sufficiently baited, put on your hook a piece
of fish like that you have used, or a live minnow,
and drop it over, and keep your bait moving up
and down by a slight motion of your hand, until
the sun gets too hot, or your seat gets too hard,
or you make up your mind that there are better
ways of fishing. Buoy fisihing is not practiced
now nearly as much as in former years, but trout
are yet caught in this manner.

224-236 GAME LAWS.

LICENSE TO HUNT, issued to resident of state
for $1.00 and 10 cents; to non residents and unnat-
uralized person, $20.00 and 50 cents. Owners of
property are permitted to hunt in the open sea-
son on their own land without a license.

Game. — You may kill Ruffled Grouse from Oct.
1 to Nov. 30, both inclusive.

Woodcock may be killed Oct. to Nov. 30.

Wildfowl, Geese, Ducks, etc, Sept 16 to Dec. 31.

Wilson's or English Snipe, Sept. 16 to Dec. 31.

Squirrels, black and gray, Oct. 1 to Nov. 30.

Deer. You may kill deer (having horns not less
than 3 inches long) with a gun fired at arm's
length without rest, between sunrise and sunset
from Oct. 1 to Nov. 15, both inclusive, but no
person shall kill or take alive more than two deer in
one season. Hounding of deer and " jacking " is for-
bidden. No fawn shall be killed at any time. Not
more than one deer shall be transported at one time,
and then only when accompanied by owner. The
violation of any of these provisions is a misdemeanor,
with an additional penalty of $100 for each violation.

Beaver shall not be caught or killed at any time.

Black Bear may be killed at sight in Essex and
Lewis Counties. In other Adirondack counties, Octo-
ber 1st to July 1st.

Elk, Moose or Caribou shall not be killed.

FISH — ^Open season: All Trout, May 1 to
Aug. 30. Lake Trout and Land-locked Salmoon,
April 16 to Sept. 30. Legal length of all trout,
other than lake trout, six inches.

Black Bass, June 16 to Dec. 31, except in Lake
George and Schroon Lake, Aug. 1 to Dec. 16.
Legal length of black bass, ten inches. Not more
than 24 shall be caught in one day.

287

HOTELS AND PUBLIC CAMPS.

Resorts arranged alphabetically, giving principal
hotels and public camps, with particulars as fur-
nislied (if not given elsewhere) in the following
order: (1st) Name of house. (2dj Capacity.
(3d) Price of board by the day and week. (4th)
Miscellaneous information, with name of proprie-
tor or manager and their postofRce address. Land-
lords are requested to supply the above with other
particulars asked for annually, which will be given
here v/ithout charge.

(For list of hotels, alphabetically arranged, see
index.)

ALBANY.
THE TEN EYCK. F. W. Rockwell. See page
275.

AIDEN LAIR.
AIDEN LAIR LODGE. F. M. Cronin. See 171-D-

AUGUR LAKE.
THE INTERLAKEN. C. B. White. Pages 132-
265.

AU SABLE CHASM.
HOTEL AU SABLE CHASM. Page 40.
BEAVER LAKE. /

FENTON HOUSE. C. Fenton Parker.^

23S HOTELS.

BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE.
BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE. M. Tyler Merwin.
Pages 211-272.

CSPREY HOUSE. Charles E. VanDenbergh. $3
day; $12-$18 week.

LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 30. $2 d.; $8 to $12 w.
Open the year round.

BLUFF POINT.
HOTEL CHAMPLIN. M. M. Kelly, Manager.
55-261.

CASCADE LAKE
CASCADE LAKE HOUSE. J. Henry Otis,
manager. Pages 122-162.

CEDAR RIVER.
CEDAR RIVER HOUSE. 30. F. E. Wood.
Pages 183-245.

CRANBERRY LAKE.
Cranberry Lake Inn. 60. Emporium Lumber
Co. Apply.

The White Birch. 40. Edwin Aldrich. Apply.
The Wndsor. 50. M. J. Brainard. Apply.
Columbian Park Hotel. 75. Neil Shaw. Apply.
Bear Mountain Camp. 50. J. M. Balderson.
(P. O. Wanakena.) Apply.

Hotel Wanakena. 125. W. A. Bean. P. O.
Wanakena.) Apply.

CHATEAUGAY LAKE.

MORRISON'S. Upper Chateauguay Lake. 150.
$2 day, $12 to $20 week. Special early and late
rates. Open May 15 to October 1. A. & T. A, Mor-
rison, Proprietors. P. O., Ralph.

BANNER HOUSE. 75. $2.50 d.; $10-$15 w.
Open all the year. 7 1-2 miles to Chateauguay sta-
tion. 10 m. to Lyon Mountain. Apply for special
conveyance. Send for booklet containing full in-
formation. J. S. Kirby, P. O., Bannerhouse.

HOTELS. 23»

CHAZY LAKE.

LAKE VIEW HOUSE. 65. G. S. Badger. P.O.
Chazy Lake. $8-$12. $2.00 day. April to Novem-
ber. 5 minutes walk from station.
ELIZABETHTOWN.

Maplewood Inn. 7.5. Roberts Brothers. Page
135.

The Windsor. O. Kellogg & Son. 250. Page
137.

Deer's Head Inn. 100. B. F. Stetson. Address
FULTON CHAIN.
^Hotels as approached from the west.)

Adirondack. At Old Forge. 30. $8-$12. Miss
Ella Hughes.

Forge House. A. M. Briggs. proprietor. 187.

BALD MOUNTAIN HOUSE. C. M. Barrett
oee 189-273.

EAGLE BAY HOTEL. 150. E. A. Preston.

Mohawk and Cottages. 70. $2.50 to $2.00 day,
$10-$18 week. June to October. Mrs. H. H. Long-
staff. $2 to $3 day; $14-$21 week.

CEDAR ISLAND CAMP. 100. May to October.
1-2 mile from Eagle Bay Station. A. G. Delmarsh,
xMgr. P. O. Old Forge, X. Y.

ROCKY POINT INN. A. G. Delmarsh. $4 day;
15-$28 week.

THE WOOD. 100. P. C. Wood. Pages 195-247.

THE ARROWHEAD. 125. C. A. O'Hara. $3
and $4 per day. $14 up per week.
KEENE VALLEY.

ST. HUBERT'S INN. The Au Sable Club. Au-
gustus J. Coughlin, Mgr. See page 141.

Keene Valley Inn. S. R. Clark. Apply for
terms.

THE OWLS HEAD. 50. W. B. Washburn.
$2.00 to $3.00 day. $8-$12 week. Special to
families and parties on application. Open the
year around.

240 HOTELS.

KEESEVILLE.
COMMERCIAL HOTEL. J. McGuire, proprie-
tor. Rates, $2.50 per day.

LAKE BONAPARTE.
THE NEW HERMITAGE. 150. David Scan-
Ion. See page 217-257.

LUZERNE.
Rockwell's Hotel. 100. D. P. Strang. Apply.
WAYSIDE INN AND COTTAGES. Ernest
Serfling. 100. See pages 161-254.
LAKE GEORGE.
FORT WM. HENRY HOTEL. M. M. -Kelly,
p. 266.

LAKE PLACID.
THE NATIONAL (at Station). Henry Allen.
See page 105-265.

GRAND VIEW HOUSE. M. B. Marshall. See
pages 106-B— 273.

NORTH WOODS INN. 75 guests. T. A. Lealiy.
Page 106-B— 273.
STEVENS HOUSE. Stevens Hotel Co. Apply.
LAKE PLACID INN. F. W. Swift. See pages
107-234.

UNDERCLIFF. See 111.

LONG LAKE.
DEERLAND LODGE. A. D. Brown & Co.
179-A-263.
THE SAGAMORE. .James H. Reardon. Apply.
ADIRONDACK HOUSE. D. B. Moynehan. Page
179-A.

MINERVA.
MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE. John Anderson, Jr.
See pages 171-C— 262.

HOTELS. 241

NEWCOMB.

LAKE HARRIS HOUSE 50. John Anderson.
See pages 173-274.

WAYSIDE INN. John Anderson. Pages 173-
274.

NORTH CREEK.

ADIRONDACK HOUSE. 100. $2 day. Pages
171-C-255.

NORTH RIVER.

ORDWAY HOTEL. 50. W. H. Lynch. See
page 182.

PLATTSBURG.

FOUQUET HOUSE. 100. R. J. Clark. See
pages 57-245.

CUMBERLAND HOUSE. R. J. Clark. See
page 57.

THE WITHERILL. 100. W. W. Howell. Apply.
PAUL SMITH'S.

Paul Smith's 500. Paul Smith's Hotel Co.
$4 per day; $21 and upwards week. June
15th to October 1st. Railroad direct to hotel.
Through Pullmans, via New York Central lines
from Grand Central Station, New York daily.
PORT KENT.

TREMBLEAU HALL. Farrell & Adgate. 125.
$3-$4 day, $15-$21 week. Free carriage to
trains and boats. See pages 39-244.
RAQUETTE LAKE.

RAQUETTE LAKE HOTEL. 50. G. C. Rear-
don, Mgr. Pages 199-256.

THE ANTLERS. C. H. Bennett. Apply.

BRIGHTSIDE COTTAGES. J. O. A. Bryere
See 201-264.

SUNSET CAMP. R. Bennet. See pages 201-
272.

242 HOTELS.

SARANAC LAKE.
^ THE BERKELEY. A. B. Robinson. Pages
75, 263.

THE NEW ST. REGIS. J. C. Morgan. $2.50 up.
Page 75.
^ RIVERSIDE INN. 100.. .Pine & Corbett. $2.50
to $4 day, $15 to $28 week. Open all the year.
See page 77.
^ THE ALGONQUIN. John Harding. Apply.
SARANAC LAKE (Upper).
SARANAC INN. Harrington Mills, Mgr. See
■^ pages 83-268.

SPECTACLE LAKES.
y HIAWATHA LODGE. 100. W. L. Beckman.
(P. O. Corey's). See pages 91-266.
SCHROON LAKE.
^ WATCH ROCK. J. D. Benham. 200. $2-$3

day; $10-$20 week.
X GROVE POINT HOUSE. 225. W. A. MacKenzie.
ONDAWA. 100. F. C. Bailey. $3-$4 d.; $14
•^and $21 w. Open all the year. See 163-256.
LELAND HOUSE. For terms apply.

TUPPER LAKE.
THE PRINCE ALBERT. $3.00 per day; $12-
$15 per week. Carriage to station, for 1 person,
$1.50; fortwo or more, $1 each. R. N. Page,
Proprietor. P. O., Moody.

WESTPORT.
WESTPORT INN. H. P. Smith, Mgr. See 33-
258.

GLEN WOOD INN. John L. Sherman. $2 day,
/ $10-$ 14 week. Free car to station. Open all the
year. See pages 35-250,

243

Guide Books and Maps

Puplished by S. R. STODDARD
Glens Falls, N. Y.

THE ADIRONDACKS ILLUSTRATED, 16 mo.,
issued annually; 288 pages. Paper 25 cents.
Gives routes, railroad, steamboat and stage fares:
hotel rates, etc.

LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE OH AMPLAIN,.
historical and descriptive. 10 mo.. 224 pages.
Paper 25 cents. Contains sectional maps of the
two lakes and cuts of mountains, islands, etc.. as
seen from the passins: steamer.

MAP OF THE ADIRONDACK WILDERNESS.
Pocket edition on map-bound paper Cloth cover,
with complete index of places, lakes, mountains
and rivers, $1.00. Paper (without the index), 50^
cents.

"It is the most complete map of the Adirondack region
pvpr iiubli'^h^d "'—Forest and stream.

MAP OF LAKE GEORGE. Scale 1 mile to an
inch. Approved and adopted by the N. Y. State
Engineer and Surveyor in 1880. Pocket edition,
cloth cover. 50 cents. Paper. 25 cents.

MAP OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Scale 21/2 miles
to an inch, with smaller maps of the Richelieu
River, and route and distances to important
points Pocket edition, cloth cover. 50 cents.
Paper 25 cents.

CHART OF LAKE GEORGE. Hydrographic
Survey of 1906-7-8. shows measurements up to ff
feet on shaded surface, with approximate deeper
soundings throughout the entire lake. Scale, J
inches to the mile. Price. $5.00.

Sent on receipt of price with 5 cents added ta
pay postage.

244

TREMBLEAU HALL

Farrell & Adgate, Proprietors
Port Kent, Essex Co., N. Y.

Accommodates 125. $3.00 and upwards per day,

$15.75 to $21 per week, special rates for

early spring and fall.

The House is beautifully situated on a bluff
overlooking Lake Champlain.

Hot and cold water baths on each floor,

3-4 mile from station; 1-2 mile from steamboat

landing; bus meets all trains and boats.

long distance telephone; livery attached.

Cottages to rent and for sale.

A short distance from Au Sable Chasm.

245

AUTOMOBILE

TRIPS

A road map covering the Champlain
Valley and the Adirondacks, from Al-
bany to the Dominion Line on a
scale of 4 miles to the inch, with an
extension of the way along the Hudson
River to Nev; York City, distinguish-
ing important roads, v/ith distances and
conditions for the current year. Illus-
trated with views of scenery and hotels,
and giving rates for board, etc. Printed
in two colors. By mail, 25 cents. On
folding map paper in paper covers, 50
cents.

Address

S. R.

STODDARD, Publisher,

Glens Falls, N. Y.

CEDAR RIVER HOUSE

F. E. Wood,

Proprietor.
20 miles from

North Creek

Rates, $2.00-and

$2.50 per day,

58-$12 per w^eek

Hunting and

Fishing Resort

P. O.,

Indian Lake,

N. Y.

246

THE

DELAWARE

and HUDSON

THE LEADING TOUR'iST LINE OF AMERICA

THE SHORTEST AND MOST PICTURESQUE
ROUTE BETWEEN

New York and Montreal

New standard-gauge, through-car line to Lake
Placid, Saranac Lake and intermediate Adiron-
dack mountain points. Cafe or dining-cars on day
trains. Through parlor and sleeping cars.

THE ONLY DIRECT LINE TO

Saratoga Springs, Lake George, Lake Champlain,
Hotel Champlain, Adirondack Mountains, Au
Sable Chasm, Sharon Springs and Cooperstown.

SUMMER EXCURSION TICKETS

on sale AT ALL TOURIST AGENCIES and ticket
offices. New York City Office, 1354 Broadway.

Send 6 cents postage for "A Summer Paradise,"
300-page illustrated guide with hotel directory, etc.

A. A. HEARD,
GenM PassV Agt.

Albany, N. Y.

247

"THE WOOD"

(Formerly Hess Camp.)

HEAD OF FOURTH LAKE.

Capacity 100.

IVEW HOUSE NEW FURNISHINGS

NEW PROPRIETOR.
Rates, $3.00 per day. $12 up per week.

PERFECT SANITARY CONDITIONS.
Long Distance Telephone in house. PostofRce
in connected building.

Guides, Boats and Camping Outfits.

End of Steamboat trip on Fourth Lake^

P. C. WOOD, PROPRIETOR. V^

(Formerly of the Forge House.)

Postoffice address, INLET, N. Y.

THE GLENWOOD INN

On Lake Champlain,

WESTPORT. N. Y. /

JOHN L. SHERMAN. Proprietor /

Accommodates 50. Terms, $2 per day and up.
Weekly rates on application. Large parlors, open
fireplaces and steam heat, hot and cold water,
baths and toilet on each floor. Auto garage and
livery. Good fishing and hunting. Open year
round. Three-quarters mile from D. & H. R. R.
'Bus meeting all trains. Branch money order of-
fice of the National Express Co. Western Union
Telegraph Co. and long distance telephone in the
house. Westport Spring Water used exclusively.

248

Touqmt douse

PLATTSBURG, NEW YORK

\/ R. J. Clark, Proprietor.
Opposite railroad station.

Only Hotel in the city overlooking Lake Cham-
plain. Rates, $3 per day; with bath, $4.00. Au-
tomobilists welcome and no extra charge. Rates
by the week on application; special rates for
families.

HOUSE REMODELED THROUGHOUT.
Twenty rooms with bath.
Open May 15 to October 1.

the
Hew Cumbarland

PLATTSBURG, N. Y.

75 rooms. Sample rooms. Steam heat. Eleva-
tor. Electric lights. All modern improvements.
Free carriage to boats and trains.

/ R. J. CLARK, Proprietor.

251

Lake Champlain

and Lake George

"THE HISTORIC GATEWA'^"

The attractive tourist route to or from the Ad-
irondack, White and Green Mountain resorts, Sar-
atoga Springs, Montreal and Canada.

D. & H. morning train from Saratoga Springs,
Albany and points south connect at Lake George
station with steamer through Lake George and
Lake Champlain, due at Plattsburg 7:00 p. m. and
connecting with train for Montrael.

The lake steamers are new, large vessels built
for comfortable pleasure travel, with latest and
finest equipment.

DELICIOUS MEAl'iS *IN MAIN DECK DINING
ROOM.

The daylight trip over these beautiful, historic
lakes is long to be remerrbered.

Tickets on sale at all tourists agencies and
ticket offices throughout the country.

Send 2 cents postage for colored map folder
with time table. New York office 1354 Broadway |/yA

A. A. Heard, D. A. Loomis

Gen. Pass. Agent. Gen. Manager.

Champlain Transportation Co.

Lake George Steamboat Co.

•f

L'54

Wayside Inn and Cottages

AT THE GATEWAY OF THE ADIRONDACKS.

22 Miles from Saratoga.
On Beautiful Lake Luzerne, Warren County, N. Y.
Attractions include Casino for dancing and the-
atricals; ochestra; golf grounds; tennis courts;
bath houses; livery, garage and stables on
grounds. The Inn has telegraph and telephone
connections; steam heat, modern bath rooms,
public and private, and is about 7 hours from New-
York without change. Terms, $17.50 per week,
upward. Write fcf booklet with map.

E. SERFLING, Proprietor.

LAKE PLACID INN

F. W. SWIFT, Owner and Proprietor.

Superbly located betw^een and overlooking both

Lake Placid and Mirror Lake.

Modern in appointments.

1 TO 4 ROOMS EN SUITE WITH PRIVATE
BATH.

Open fire-places in all public rooms. Broad ve-
randas. Golf, Tennis, Baseball, Billiards, Pool,
Boating, Fishing, Dancing.

ORCHESTRA IN ATTENDANCE.
Accommodations for 150 guests.
Pulmonary cases positively not taken.
Rates, $21.00 and upwards, $4 per day and up-
wards.

Special rates for June and for long stay.
Address F. W. SWIFT, Lake Placid, N. Y.

255

ADIRONDACK HOUSE

NORTH CREEK, N. Y.

FREE BUS TO ALL TRAINS

Capacity for one hundred guests.

STEAM HEATED THROUGHOUT.

FIRST CLASS TABLE
RATES $2.00 PER DAY AND UPWARDS.

LIVERY IN CONNECTION.

Long Distance Telephone.

MOYNEHAN & ANDERSO,N, Proprietors.

riJM

256

ONDAWA HOUSE

Scliroon Lake, Essex Co., X. Y.

F. C. Bailey, Proprietor. \/

Accommodates 100.

TERMS: $12 to $17.50 per week.

Transients, $2.00 per day.

Special Terms for Families.

Raquette Lake Hotel

RAQUETTE LAKE, N. Y. /

P. Moynehan, Owner. G. C. Reardon, Mgr.

ON THE SHORES OF RAQUETTE LAKE.

End of the Railroad.
Starting Point for Raquette Lake and Blue Moun-
tain Steamers.

FIRST-CLASS TABLE AND FURNISHINGS.

Guides, Boats, Hunting and Fishing Outfits.
See page 199.

Rates, $2.50 up. Special by week.

Address, G. 0. Reardon, Manager.

Raquette Lake, N. Y.

257

ADIRONDACK INN
. W:alis, N. Y.

on the
BEAUTIFUL SACANDAGA RIVER

Modern Accommodations

GAME AND FISH DINNERS

In Season.

RATES: $2.50 up.

The Westport Inn

WESTPORT, on Lake Cha/nplain, N. Y

Open June 15, Close Oct. 1.

. P. SMITH, Mgr.

A thoroughly well appointed house, wi-ih good
table, mountain spring water and excellent drain-
age, wide piazzas, with a superb view of the Lake
and Mountains.

Capacity 150. Rates, $4 per day; $17.5f to $35
per week.

It is within two minutes walk of the Lake
Champlain Transportation Company's wharf, two
minutes from the Library and Postoffice and ten
minutes drive from the Depot of the D. & H.

Golf Club House with Billiard and Pool Table*
and Shower Baths.

Champlain steamers land at foot of grounds four
times daily. Convenient excursions on lake.

259

GRAND VIEW HOUSE

A SELECT FAMILY RESORT
400 Acres of Forest Stream . One of the most
magnificent Mountain and Lake Views in the
World.
Golf, Boating, Bathing, Tennis, Fishing, Dancing.
ADIRONDACK ATTRACTIONS.
No Mosquitoes — No Hay Fever
Always Cool
Private Baths Steam Heat Elevator
OUR OWN VEGETABLE GARDENS
Superior Table Spring Water
Grand Ball Room Symphony Orchestra

Specail Inducements to Young Men in Bachelors'
Hall
Season June to October
THE LAKE PLACID & MIRROR LAKE

/HOTEL CO., Proprietors
* * * / * * * * *

M. B. Marshall ior Hotel Hargrave, New York,
late Manager of Saranac Inn, is President and
Supervising Manager of the Grand View,

260

HIAWATHA LODGE
AND COTTAGES

Spectacle Lakes

In the Adirbndacks

P. O. Corey's, N. Y.

W. L. BECKMAN, Proprietor

Guests are Entertained in Winter and Summer
A Modern Hotel with Surrounding Bungalows

Hunting, FisFiing, Golf.

See page 91.

261

EAST FRONT

HOTEL CHAMPLAIN

AND COTTAGES

REBUILT

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, New York.

Modern Absolutely Fireproof.

Accommodations for 400.

18 Hole Golf Course. 9 Hole Court Course.

On the AdirondgLgfeaarail and Iroquois Trail.

All Out Door Sports and Amusements.

MORTIMER M. KELLY, Manager.

WEST FRONT

262

CASCADE LAKE HCUSE. Transi-
ent, $4.00: $15 to $21 by the week.
The wildest pass in the Adirondacks
reached by Automobile. New road^
bed perfect. Pamphlei on applies^
tion. Address, J. Henry Otis, Msm-
ager. Cascade. X. Y. >/

MOUNTAIN VIEW HOUSE

MiNERVA, ESSEX CO.. /d. Y
lOHN ANDERSON, JR.,s/ropri<

14C3 FEET ELEVATION.

JOHN ANDERSON, J R.,sproprietor.

LIVERY IN CONNECTION WITH HOUSE.

GARAGE AND GASOLENE.

First-class Kcrses and '' arriages. Careful and
Attenti' e Drivers.

Eight miles from D. & H. Railroad Station at
North Cieelv, N. Y.

Bath and Toilet in house.

Rates, $2 to $3.50 per day. Special by week.

203

DEERLAND LODGE

DEERLAND LODGE is located among tall pines
on the eastern shore of the lake near its head
seven miles from Raquette Lake and eight miles
from Blue Mountain Lake. Capacity of house and
15 cottages. 150 guests.
COTTAGES HAVE BATHS AND OPEN FIRES.

Nine-hole Golf Course on hotel grounds.
This, with Tennis. Boating, Hunting and Fishing
are the standard amusements.
P. O. and Telephone in House. Daily Mails.
The best way to reach Deerland is via Raquette
Lake Steamer to Forked Lake carry, thence by
private conveyance. See page 179.
Rates $3 and $4 per day. $17.50 up p/r week.

A. D. BROWN & CO., /
P. O. Deerland, Hamilton Co., n; Y.

THE BERKELEY

saranac lake /

A. B. ROBINSON, Proprietor. J

THOROUGHLY MODERN, HANDSOMELY
APPOINTED, STEAM HEAT. OPEN ALL THE
YEAR.

CENTRALLY LOCATED, BROAD PIAZZAS
AND SPACIOUS SLEEPING ROOMS. CAPAC-
ITY OF 75. TABLE UNSURPASSED.

Table supplied with the best milk, cream,
butter and vegetables fresh daily. Long distance
telephone and telegraph office in house. Livery
attached. Guides and campers' supplies fur-
nished.

Special Accommodations Reserved for Automobile

Parties.

GARAGE AND AUTOMOBILE SUPPLIES.

264

Brightside-on-Raquette

RAQ CTTE LAKE, N. Y

Main Bu Iding and Cottages will
Pr.>vide for Seventy-five Guests

Open camps with bal?am beds for those who may
wish to sleep in the open air. Public open camps
and camp fire at Brightside nightly.

Modern improvements. Cottages lighted by gas.
A perfect system of sanitary plumbing throughout.
Cottages to rent with board only. Steamer stops
four times daily. Two mails daily. Two miles
from R. R. station. On the shore of the lake at the
foot of the Crags.

Amusements are boating, canoeing, bathing,
tennis, music.

Fishing, hunting and camping outfits and guides
and boats furrisred.

RATES: $3 per day; $15 to $20 per week. Spe-
cial for May, Jure and October. Open May to No-
vember. Send for illustrated circular.

THERE IS NO BAR AT BRIGHTSIDE.

People suffering from pulmonary troubles not
taken. Hebrews need not apply. i

Address J. O. A. BRYERE, Raquexte liake, N. Y.

Interlaken House

AUGUR LAKE

Splendid mountan scenery. Extensive pine groves

Black Bass, Pickerel and Trout Fishing.

Boating, Bowling, Lawn Tennis and Driving.

No malaria, hay fever, black flies nor mosquitoes.

House open June 1st to October 15th.

Rates for board, $2.50 per day; $10 to $15 per week

Special rates for June and September.

C. B. WHITE, Keeseville. \/

The National Hotel

LAKE PLACID, N. Y.

Every Room Provided with Hot and Cold

Water, with Bath Between Every

Two Rooms.

A Good Livery is connected with the hotel and

a first-class Garage for the care of Automobiles.

For information and rates apply to
HENRY ALLEN, Proprietor, Lake Placid, N. Y.

266

SUMMER

FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL

(REBUILT)

LAKE GEORGE, N. Y.

OPEN ALL THE YEAR.

Absolutely Fireproof. Modem.

Conducted on the European Plan Exclusively.

New Concrete Garage.
On the Adirondack Trail and Iroquois Trail.
Reached by the D. & H. in through
Pullman car*, direct to hotel.

MORTIMER M. KELLY, Manager.

WINTER

XOUTH tUJ^EIv GARAGE, uear Adi-
rouduek Hotel.. Headquarters at Tele-
phone Central Office. Claude A. Pereau,
Proprietor. Julius S. Brown, Heact
Mechanic. Equipped with lathe and
drill press of latest type and all the
tools found in a first-class Garage..
Automobile supplies always on hand.
First-class Auto livery attached. "Max-
well" and "Cadilac" Agency.

LAKE CLEAR INN
on Lake Clear, Adirondacks, on the
famous St. Germain carry. $2.50 per
day; $12-$18 week. Golf. Hunting.
Fishing. Reservations for Automo-
bilists. C. H. Wardner, late proprie-
tor at Rustic Lodge, proprietor. Post-
office address, Lake Clear, X. Y. See
page 71.

26{

SARANAC INN

UPPER SARANAC LAKE
Post Office Address, UPPER SARANAC, Franklin

County, N. Y.
The Country of Fish and Game and Healthful

Recreation.
A Select Summer Home. Golf, Tennis and

other Amusements.
Terms at the Inn, $4 per day and up; $19.25 to
$70 per week. Capacity 250.
Open May to NAyember.
Boats, Guides, Fishing 35ackle, Supplies and
Camp Outfits furnished at the house. Corre-
spondence solicited. Circulars and Maps sent on
application. Harrington Millsi6f Hotel Grafton,
Washington, D. C, Manager.

Upper Saranac Lake Steamers.

"SARANAC" and "LOON"

runs to all points or\ the I al>e connecting with trairs on the
A. & St. Li. R. R. Through tickets ovr>r ihi-; lin- ohta^nnhle
from all points. Fare through the lake 75>.-. Round irip $1.00.

xiivie: card.

Leave Sarnnac Inn.. 7.45 a.m. Leave Sarannc Inn 2.30p.m-
Wawbeek ....9.00 " " Wawbeek.. . .3.45 "

Rustic Lodge. 9. 15 " " Rustic Lodge.4 00 "

" Sa'-anac Club 9.30 " " Saranac Club. 4. 15 "

Returning, arrive at Returning, a- rive at

Glens Falls Automobile Co.

Top of Glen Street Hill

Most modern r.nd up-to-date Garage in Northern
New York. Fully equipped in every way to sup-
ply the wants of the tourist as well as the general
public.

STORAGE FOR CARS. CARS FOR RENT.

Repair room not excelled in tnis section of the
country.

Accommodations for the Tourist unexcelled in
any Garage in Northern New York.

Our 1912 products are the world's famous
Thomas Flyer, Champion Hill Climber, The Knox.
The most noted medium priced car, the E. M. F.,
and the best cpt for the price, the Fore-door Fl:.n-
ders at $800.

Do not miss this ideal home for your Auto
while touring this section of the country.

74-76 Gler. Street,
Glens Falls, ,N. Y.

MILO J. GRAY, President. V /

HOWARD C. PEARSALL, Vice President.
CHARLES H. FENNELL, Secretary.

272

THE ADIRONDACK

LONG LAKE, N. Y.
D. B. MOYNEHAN, Proprietor.

Rates — $2.50 up per day, $12 up per week.
For special rates address the proprietor.

Open Plumbing, Acetylene Gas, Hot and
Cold Water, Rooms with Bath,
Long Distance Telephone.

THE BEST DEER HUNTING GROUNDS IN

NEW YORK STATE WITHIN AN

HOUR OF THE HOTEL.

GUIDES AND BOATS FURNISHED.
For Booklet and particulars address

D. B. MOYNEHAN, Long Lake, N. Y.*
See page 176 for picture of hotel.

SUN SET CAMP

RAQUETTE LAKE, N. Y.

The Camp has the reputation of setting as good
a table as can be found in the Adirondacks for
the money.

The table is supplied with plenty of fresh milk
and cream and vegetables from the Camp's gar-
den. Trout and venison in season.

Sunset Camp Launch meets all trains and takes
guests and their baggage to and from Camp and
brings and delivers mail twice daily. Pulmonary
invalids not taken.

Rates $2.50 per day up. $12.50 per week up.
Write for booklet and references.

Address, R. BENNETT, Raquette Lake,

N. Y.V

273

Bald Mountain House

HEAD OF THIRD LAKE, FULTON CHAIN.
C. M. BARRETT, Prop.

Capacity 130 Guests.
Rates $2.50 to $4 per day; $15 to $28 per week.
Electric bells, lighted with gas, open fire-places,
hard-wood stoves, beautiful grounds. Forest camps
and lodges connected with the hotel. Bowling
Alleys. New Steam Laundry. Write for particy
ulars. Booklet free. Address, /

C. M. BARRETT, Old Forge, N. Y. %/

NORTHWOODS INN

LAKE PLACID ,N. Y.

Centrally Located on the West Shore of Mir-
ror Lake.

Two Thousand Feet Above Sea Level.
Appointments Frst-Class, Open Fireplaces,
Steam and Furnace Heat.

Baths, Electric Lights, Sanitary Plumb-
ing. Long Distance Telephone.
Rates— $2.50-$3, $12.50-$17.50 week. Address/
T. A. LEAHY, Prop., Lake Placid,

Address/
N. Y. J

274

WAYSIDE INN nfs^.^'ioT.^:..

Unsurpassed as a Hunting and Fishing Centre.
Superb Troat Fishing. The best of Deer Hunting.
Guides and all banting and fishing accessories

Rates: $2 to $3.50 per day; special by the vv^eek
cr season. Daily mails. Telephone in the house.
JOH,N ANDERSON, Jr., Newcomb.

LAKE HARRIS
HOUSE

A MODERN, WELL EQUIPPED SUMMER

HOTEL.

SIX THOUSAND ACRES OF LAKES AND

FORESTS.

WITH FREE HUNTING AND FISHING PRIV-

ILEGES TO GUESTS.

Accommodates 65. Rates $2 to $5 per d^y.

Specif: ffJi- .June and September.

Lighted by Gas. Steam Heat and Open Fire
Places. Telegraph and Telephone connections.
JOHN ANDERSON, Jr., Newcomb, Essex
County, N. Y.

THE TEN EYCK

LEADING HOTEL OF ALBANY, N. Y.
f"ire:i=»roof-

Near State Capito! and other Places of Interest

ORCHESTRAL CONCERTS DAILY
"THE TRELLIS," a Summer Feature

AI.SO

THE ONONDAGA

SYRACUSE. N. Y.

F-|«EF»IROOF-

Both Hotels Conducted on :European Plan
Under Direction of

FRED K W. ROCKWELL,

276

The Fowler Livery

....And....

Transfer Company.

/ G. A. BOMBARD, Proprietor.

Saranac Lake, N. Y.

Telephone Connections.
We meet all trains.

One of the best equipped liveries in Northern
New York.

The Celebrated Adirondack Glens Falls Buck-
board.

Four-in-hands.

Rubber-tired Hacks and Runabouts.

GARAGE — Agent for the Jackson Automobile.

Call by telephone or telegraph.

THE FOWLER LIVERY and TRANSFER CO.,

Saranac Lake, N. Y.

WHAT JOLLIER TRIP THAN

A COACHING TRIP

Over the interesting ways in and
through the

Adirondack Wilderness

/Miner
lAiden
/Newc(
\Long Lake
iNorth Riv(
( Blue Mt. L

Minerva

Lair

F-HORTH CREEK to '^™^

Long Lake
ver
ake

By Glens Falls Buckboard

Anywhere Into the Woods.
For particulars address y

W. R. WADDELL CO., ^
North Greek, N. Y.

278

A GUIDE

invariably seeks landmarks— or he
may not know northeast from
southwest.

The oldest^ most accurate land-
mark among local department
stores, which has conservatively
piloted housekeepers to assured sat-
isfaction for generations, is this
safe and sane shop. It is, in fact,
an excellent Adirondack Guide to
the goal of contentment in depart-
ment store merchandising.

ylsk the Woman who has been here.

B.B. Fowler Company

Established 1869
GLENS FALLS, NEW YORK

INDEX.

Adirondacks in General 1

Adirondack (Tahawus Club) 171-D

Aiden Lair 171

Ausable Chasm 40

Au Sable Forks 132

Bartlett Carry 83

Beaver River 216

Benson Mines 217

Brown Tract 185

Brown, John 119

Buntline, Ned 210

Burlington 37

Buttermilk Falls 179-C

Camps and Camp Supplies 14, 20

Champlain, Lake 23 to 60

Chateaugay Lake 63

Chestertown 163

Crown Point 29

Eagle's Nest 209

Elizabethtown 135

Fish and Fishing 228

Fort Freedrick 31

Fulton Chain 185

Gabriels 68

Game Laws

HOTELS. (See also p. 237.)

Adirondack, The, Long Lake 179

Adirondack, Old Forge 189

Adirondack House, North Creek 171

Adirondack Inn 183

Aiden Lair Lodge 171-D

Arrowhead, the 195

Algonquin 79

Antlers, The 200

Au Sable Chasm, Hotel 40

Bald Mountain House 187

280

HOTELS — Continued.

Albion, The 100

American House 132

Banner House (i6

Bartlett's 81

Berkley, The 77

Blue Mtn. Hou-,e (Merwin's) 211

Brightside 201

Carsons 170-A

Cascade Lake House 122

Cedar River House 183

Cedar Island Camp 193

Chester House 163

Cohasset 191

Crawford's 140

Cumberland, The New 57

Deer's Head Inn 137

Deerland Lodge 179-A

Eagle Bay Hotel 191

Fouquet House 57-248

Forge House 187

Fenton House 216

Fulton, Camp 191

Grand View 106-B

Glenwood Inn 34-247

Grove Point House 167

Hiawatha Lodge 91

Hermitage, The New 217

Hotel Champlain 53

Hotel Northville 183

Howard House 72

Hunter's Home 137

Inlet Inn 195

Interlaken (Essex Co.) 132

Lake Harris House 173

Lake Placid Inn 107

liOTELS— Continued.

Lake Placid Club

Lakeside Inn

Lake View Inn

Leland House

Loon Lake House

Maplewood Inn

Mountain View, Minerva

National, The

Northweeds Inn

Ondawa

Ordway Hotel

Osborne Inn

Owl's Head, The

Paul Smith's

Raquette Lake Hotel

Rainbow Inn

Riverside, The

Rocky Point Inn

Rockwell's Hotel

Rustic Lodge

Sagamore, The

Saranac Inn

Sunset Camp

Stevens House

Trembleau Hall

Undercliff

Watch Rock Hotel

Wawbeek Lodge 86

Westport Inn 33

White Face Mountain House 133

Windsor (Elizabethtown) 137

Windsor, New, Rouses Point 58

Wood, The 195-247

Indian Carry 91

Indian Lake Village 182

Insect Preparation 21

>^ dian Pass 171-h

HOTELS

Jay 132

Johnsburg 163

Johnstown 183

John Brown's Grave 121

Keene Valley 141-142

Keeseville 131

LAKES AND PONDS. Elev. Page.

Ampersand Pond 2,079 81c

Au Sable Lake (Lower) 1,959 143

Au Sable Lake (Upper) 1,993 145

Avalanche Lake 2,856 127

Beaver Lake 1,435 216

Big Moose Lake 216-e

Blue Mountain Lake 1,890 211

Bonaparte Lake 217

Brant Lake 163

Calamity Pond 2,712 171-f

Canada Lakes (West) 2,348 181

Cascade Lakes 2,028 122

Catlin Lake 1,583 174b

Cedar Lakes 2,529 ] 81

Chain Lakes (Seven) :i 81

Champlain 23

Chapel Pond 1,551 144

Chateaugay Lake (Lower) 66

Chateaugay Lake (Upper) 63

Chazy Lake 1,500 62

Colden Lake 127

Cranberry Lake 1,540 217

Eagle Lake 209

Eagle Lake, Ticonderoga. 159

Elk Lake 1.981 161

Forked Lake 1,753 180

Fulton Chain— First Lake 1,684 185

Fulton Chain— Fourth Lake 1,707 189

Fulton Chain— Eighth Lake 1,803 19C

Giant's Washbowl 2,233 14)

LAKES AND PONDS— Continued.

Harkness, Lake 174b

Henderson, Lake 1,974 171-h

Indian Lake i/i 05 181

Ingraham Pond 73

Lake Harris 171

Lake Kushaqua 68

Lewey Lake 1,738 181

Lake Flower 78

Lake Ozonia 9S

Lake Titus 71

Long Lake 1,614 175

Loon Lake (Franklin County) 67

Luzerne Lake 161

Massawepie Lake 99

Mountain View 71

Meacham 72

Mirror Lake 1,856 107

Paradox Lake 16u

Piseco Lake 182

Placid, Lake 1,863 105

Pleasant Lake 1,706 183

Preston Ponds 2,206 171-h

Pyramid Lake 159

Ragged Lake 71

Rainbow" Lake 68

Raquette Lake 1,774 197

Raquette Pond 97

Saint Regis Lake 1.623 69

Sanford, Lake 1,800 173

Saranac Lake (Lower) 1,539 80

Saranac Lake (Middle) 1,542 81

Saranac Lake (Upper) 1,577 83

Seven Chain Lakes 181

Schroon Lake 830 164

Stony Creek Ponds 1,642 91

Tear of the Clouds 4,321 128

Thirteenth Lake 1,953 180

Tupper Lake (Big) 1,554 95

LAKES AND PONDS

Tupper Lake (Little) 1,628 97

Uncas 206

Utowana Lake 209

Lake Placid Club 113

Lake Placid (Village) 105

Long Lake (Village) 179-a

Long Lake West 177

Luzerne 163

Malone 72

Marion River 208

Moose River 185

MOUNTAINS.

Rank. Name. Elev. Page.

Ampersand 3,432 81

Bald Mountain 189

Bartlett 3,715 146

Basin 4,905

Blue Mountain 3,824 211

Cobble Hill 1,936 139

11 Colden 4,753 127

20 Colvin 4,142 145

' 4 Dix 4,916 143

17 Giant 4,530 146

12 GJothic 4,744 146

6 Gray Peak 4,902

3 Haystack 4,918 146

10 Little Haystack 4,766

Hopkins Peak 3,136

Hurricane 3,763 139

Indian Face 2,536 145

19 Lyon Mountain 3,809 62

1 Mount Marcy 5,344 128

2 Mclntyre 5,201 125

14 Nipple Top 4,654 143

Noon Mark 3,548 143

Owl's Head 2,825 177

13 Redfield 4,688 158

MOUNTAINS—

16 Saddle 4,536 146

St. Regis 2,888 70

15 Santanoni 4,644

18 Seward 4,384 217

7 Skylight 4,889 158

Snow 3,903 143

1 Tahawus .- >^.344 125

Wallface /....^,89_3 ITl-h

8 Whiteface 4,871 111

Mountain Trails 123-b

Minerva 171-c

Newcomb 173

North Creek 171-180

North River 182

Number Four 218-e

Old Forge 187

Phantom Falls 216

Plattsburg 56

Port Henry 159

Port Kent 40

Potter&ville 165

Potsdam 100

RAILROADS.

Delaware & Hudson 62-246

Raquette Lake 199

Saranac & Lake Placid 105

Raquette Falls 93

Raquette Lake 197

Raquette River (lower) 9.^

Riverside 163

Riverside Garage 78

St. Regis Falls 98

Saranac Lake, Village 73

Schroon Lake, Village 165

Split Rock 1 37

Sporting Outfit 22

Spring Cove 98

STAGES.

Long Lake 253

Port Henry 253

STEAMBOATS.

Champlain, Lake 25-251

Long Lake 253

Raquette Lake 199

Tahawus 17l-d

Ticonderoga, Fort 27

Tupper Lake Village 97

Valcour Island 41

Van Hoevenberg, Henry 123-b

Vergennes 36

Westport 33

Whitehall 25

Wilmington 133

Advertisements not indexed above:

Fowler LiVery. Saranac L 276

B. B. Fowler Co 279

Guide Books, Maps, etc 282

Glens Falls Automobile Co 271

North Creek Livery 277

iT^i^'

^'^Vij?^

•*THE ADIRONDACKS

AND THEM GLORIFIED/*

(JWm the New York Mail and Mmpreae
June 9th t 1894.)

** Close Upon the heels of Murray
came S. R. Stoddard, with his camera,
his note book and his brush, all of which
he has used continuously for twenty-
three years to make the fame of the
Adirondack Wilderness known to the
outside world. Stoddard has done even
more than Murray to publish the results
of his discoveries, for in g:uide books, on
his maps, in his marvelous photographs,
on the lecture platform, on the screen,
in poetry and in song, he has for nearly
a quarter of a century preached the
Adirondacks, and them glorified."

uoi £,% isai

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