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TWENTY-FIRST  EDITION '^ 


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LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS. 


Sheli\     ' 


UNITED  STATE.S  OF  AMERICA. 


THE 


ADIRONDACKS: 


ILLUSTRATED, 


CONTAINING 


NARRATIVE  OF   A  TRIP  THROUGH  THE  WILDERNESS,  WITH  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  NATURAL 

FEATURES    OF    THE    REGION  ;     HINTS    CONCERNING   SUPPLIES  AND    GENERAL 

OUTFIT  FOR  CAMP  AND  TRAIL  ;  COST  AND  MANNER  OF  REACHING 

THE  VARIOUS  RESORTS  ;   HOTELS,  WITH  CAPACITY,   PRICE 

OF  BOARD,  ETC.;  TABLES   OF   ELEVATION   AND 

DISTANCES   ;  MAPS,  ETC.,  ETC. 


'    BY 

S.    R.    STODDA 


-ishingtc^ 


AUTHOR     OF 


^'TlCONDEROGA,"    "LaKE     GeORGE,    ILLUSTRATED,"    EtC. 

TWENTY-FIRST  EDITION. 

GLENS    FALLS,    N.    Y. 

PUBLISHED  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

Copyright,  1891,  by  S.  R.  Stoddard. 


7tH^+ 


r 


Information  gathered  from  all  available  sources,  is 
arranged  in  the  following  pages  on  a  carefully  considered 
system.  In  the  net-work  of  ways  with  their  multitude  of 
branches  traversing  the  wilderness  of  Northern  New  York 
continuity  of  progress  may  not  be.  A  comprehensive 
glance  will  help  you  in  acquiring  necessary  details.  Here 
is  the  key. 

As  a  WHole  the  Adirondacks  is  considered  on  page 
XIII,  under  head  of  "  Gateways."  Following  each  gate- 
way are  lines  leading  to  particular  centres,  giving  dis- 
tances and  fares,  with  references  to  pages  where  more 
extended  mention  may  be  found.  Places  and  specially 
noted  features  are  indexed  on  page  IX  j  hotels,  lakes, 
ponds  and  mountains  are  given  in  special  indexes.  Ex- 
penses are  touched  upon  at  pages  6  and  208 ;  various  sug- 
gestions concerning  camp  and  outfit  on  pages  208  to  215 ; 
fishing  pages  216  to  223.  The  advertisements  (indexed  on 
page  221)  are  interesting,  for  therein  each  man  speaks  for 
himself. 

Specific  Points  about  which  you  would  learn  may 
be  had  if  you  will  consult  the  index.  If  instead  you  would 
wander  free  as  the  vagrant  bee,  gathering  honey  from 
every  flower,  throw  the  book  away — you  don't  need  it.  If 
undecided  as  to  way  follow  the  "  Professor "  and  the 
writer  through  the  "  Narrative  "  so  long  as  the  company 
please  you.  It  represents  an  erratic  course  that  covers 
substantially  the  most  interesting  and  diverse  interior  por- 
tions of  the  wilderness,  noting  by  the  way  such  changes 
as  time  and  improved  facilities  for  transportation  have 
brought  about  since  the  trip  was  made,  contrasting  the 
old  and  the  new  in  the  procession  of  changeful  years. 


VI  Greeting.  1S91. 

The  preservation  of  the  forests  is  a  question  of 
\ital  importance  not  only  to  the  Adirondack  region  itself 
but  to  the  State  and  country  as  well.  About  one-third  of 
the  mountain  and  wilderness  region  is  drained  by  the 
Hudson,  the  remainder  by  streams  that  run  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  section  where 
the  great  Hudson  River  and    its   higher    tributaries   rise 

are  less 
known  to 
the  public 
than  al- 
most any 
other 
part.  It 
is  also  a 
fact  that 
'.his  sec- 
tion is  be- 
ing gradu- 
ally strip- 
ped of  its 
valuab  le 
trees  far 
up  into 
rugged 
Indian 
Pass  and 
around  its 

ILighc  p-irtion  shows  Hudson  River  draitage/  wild  head 

waters,  except  when  an  occasional  narrow  belt  is  left  un- 
touched around  the  more  important  lakes  All  this  section, 
with  a  good  part  of  the  western  water-shed,  should  be 
under  control  of  the  State,  and  would  be  cheap  at  almost 
any  price,  iiow^  before  irreparable  injur}-  is  done.  How 
near  that  point  has  been  reached  cannot  be  determined 
yet,  but  the  gradual  annual  shrinking  in  the  water  supply 
of  the  Hudson,  with  its  sudden  floods  and  as  sudden  dr}'. 


Greeting,  1891.  vii 

ing-up  of  tributary  streams,  are  warnings  that  should  not  be 
ignored.  The  lumberman,  engaged  in  an  honorable  (and 
profitable)  business  is  not  to  be  blamed  for  making  what 
he  can  out  of  it.  It  is  a  pure  matter  of  business  with  him 
as,  with  dynamite  and  giant  powder,  he  clears  away  ob- 
structions in  mountain  gorges  and  wilderness  streams,  and 
with  dams,  floods,  and  drains  the  valleys  until  the  retiring 
waters  leave  behind  them  but  decay  and  death.  Following 
the  lumberman  comes  the  woodpulp  fiend  who  strips  the 
hills  of  the  softer  wood,  which  the  lumberman  has  pointed 
to  with  pride  as  showing  that  he  did  not  cut  away  the  forests, 
until  finally  the  "duff"  which  through  ages  past  has  slowly 
climbed  the  mountain  sides  aftording  support  to  the  com- 
pensating vegetation  that  in  turn  deposits  more  duff  higher 
up — opened  to  the  sun  becomes  as  tinder;  then  comes 
the  fire,  and  after  that  the  deluge.  The  legislature  rises 
to  the  occasion  by  authorizing  the  purchase  of  wild  land  at 
the  munificent  rate  of  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  acre. 
Meantime,  the  club  man  and  the  lumberman  and  the  char- 
coal man  and  the  woodpulp  man  and  the  man  with  a  little 
money  to  invest  for  a  rise,  are  each  and  all  quietly  absorb- 
ing the  valuable  portions,  and  the  little  that  falls  back  on 
the  State  comes  after  being  robbed  of  that  which  alone 
makes  its  possession  a  thing  to  be  desired. 

Clubs  multiply  and  large  sections  of  wild  land  are 
being  acquired  by  individuals  and  private  corporations  to 
be  set  aside  as  "  reserves  for  the  preservation  of  the 
forests  and  the  propagation  of  game  and  fish,"  and  of 
course,  held  for  their  owners'  private  use.  To  this  the  in- 
digent public  can  have  no  reasonable  grounds  for  objec- 
tion, unless  the  owners,  overcome  by  greed  of  gain,  become 
amateur  lumbermen  and  themselves  threaten  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  forests  they  set  out  to  preserve,  when  the  public 
would  be  justified  in  taking  the  matter  into  its  own  hands. 

I  would  enact  a  law  prohibiting  forever  the  cutting  of 
any  evergreen  tree  except  with  the  approval  of  competent 


VIII  Greeting,  1891. 

authority  under  the  government,  on  any  land  in  New  York 
State  lying  1,800  feet  above  tide.  Then  let  clubs  and 
individuals  struggle  for  the  acreage  to  their  heart's  content. 

Railroads.  There  are  railroads  and  rumors  of  rail- 
roads. Among  those  projected  are  an  extension  of  the 
Chateaugay  R.  R.  to  Lake  Placid;  a  continuation  of  the 
Adirondack  from  North  Creek  northward  through  the 
wilderness  and  another  known  as  the  Adirondack  and  St. 
Lawrence  Railway  of  which  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb  is  presi- 
dent, is  surveyed  northward  through  the  western  part  of 
the  wilderness,  passing  near  Fulton  Chain,  Albany  and 
Smith's  Lakes,  through  the  Mud  Lake  country,  thence 
easterly  to  a  junction  with  the  N.  A.  R.  R.  at  Tupper 
Lake  and  continuing  past  Saranac  Inn  and  Paul  Smith's 
to  Malone.  This  last  mentioned  section  from  Tupper  Lake 
north  is  materializing  and  will,  it  is  expected,  be  in  opera- 
tion in  August  of  the  present  pear.  A  branch  road  is  laid 
out  from  this  main  line  into  the  Adirondack  League  Club's 
Preserve,  another  from  the  Fulton  Chain  eastward  past 
Raquette  Lake  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake  and  a  third  from 
Bisf  Clear  Pond  to  Saranac  Lake. 

This  book  is  revised  and  published  annually,  and,  as 
it  is  impossible  for  the  writer  to  visit  every  portion  of  the 
wilderness  before  publication,  it  will  be  considered  a  favor 
if  anyone  noting  errors  or  omissions  of  importance  will  call 
attention  to  the  fact  either  in  person  or  by  letter. 

Hotel  Owners  and  others  proposing  to  take  summer 
boarders  in  the  Adirondacks  are  requested  to  send,  annu- 
ally, before  May  ist,  information  as  to  the  number  of 
guests  they  will  accommodate,  price  for  board  by  the  day 
and  week,  name  and  post  office  address,  date  of  opening 
and  closing,  distance  and  direction  from  some  well  known 
point  with  particulars  as  to  transportation,  stating  price 
and  kind  of  conveyance.  The  substance  of  such  informa- 
tion will  be  published  free  in  the  current  number  of  the 
book. 


insriDE^c 


PAGE. 

Adirondacks 

In  general i 

Adirondack  P.0 182 

Adirondack  Club 130 

League  Club 203 

Sanitarium 9T 

Mt.  Reserve 165 

Euiaed  Vlllaee...     127 
Adventure,  fish  ball. .  101 

Advertisements 237 

Au  Sable  Chasm 33 

Battle  of  Plattsburgh.    51 
Battle  of  Valcour..   .     45 

Beaver  River 207-a 

Bixby,  Dr.  G.  F 53 

Bloomingdale 62-b 

Blue  Mt.  Lake 192 

Bluff  Point 47 

Boonville 206 

Brightside-on-Raq'tte  203 

Brown.  John 75-82 

Brown  Tract 206 

Burlington 31 

Camp  suggestions...  211 

Carillon 22 

Carryinff  experience.  118 
Cedar  Lakes  (el.  2,529)  193 

Cedar  River 192 

Chateaugay  Chflsm...     52 

Champlain  Lake 14 

Champlain,  Sam'lde.     14 

Cheatertown 179 

Childwold  Station . . .  109-a 

Chubb  River 96 

Clinton  Prison.       ...     57 

Colden  Csmp 131 

Crab  Island 51 

Crown  Point  Ruins . .     24 

Cumberland  head 50 

Downey's  Landing.  .109-a 
"Ea£le'"B  Nest,"  The . .  122 

Eliza  bethtown 148 

Essex 30 

Ethan  Allen 21 

Euba  Dam 151 

Exrenses  estimated . .  6 
Fishing,  tackle,  flies.  216 
Fish,where  found....  223 

Forestry  Laws 224 

Fort  Frederick 24 

Fort  Ticonderoga 19 

',ale 99- A 

Gateways,  spec! 

pages xiii,  XIV,  xv 

Guides,  relating  to. . .  214 

Game  Laws 222 

Henderson,  David 126 

Hotels,  ppe'l index    xi 

Indian  Carry 105 

Indian  Face 168 


PAGB. 

Indian  Lake 191 

Indian  Pass  (el.  2,937, 

90).... 132 

Insect  Preparations..  213 

Keene 83 

Keene  Valley 157-256 

Keeseville 44 

Lakes,  epe'l  head.       X 

Lake  Placid 89-93 

LakePleasent 191 

Long  Lake  Village...  114 

Lovirville 206 

Luzerne ITi* 

Lyon  Mountain 59 

M  alone 56 

Marion  River 203 

Maps,  epe'l  head,,    xi 

Map.MutroQoced 7 

Marcy,  ascent  of 170 

Marion  River 197 

Medicine  chest 213 

M.neville(el.l,347, 15)    26 

Minerva 189 

Moose  River 205 

Mountains,8pe- 

cial  head x 

Narrative 9 

Ned  Buntline 122 

Newcomb        123 

North  Creek 189 

North  Elba 83 

Old  Mountain  Phelps.  158 

"On  the  tramp" 125 

Outfit,  Suggestions...  4 
camp  and  woods. ..  208 
sporting 214 

Parks,  Preserves^ 

Aairoudack  Glub...  130 

Adirondack  Mt 165 

^  L  C        202 

Childwold.'.'...'.'."  i09-c 

Ne-Ha-Sa-Ne 207-b 

Summer 202 

Phantom  Falls 120 

Peasleviile 62-c 

Pilot,  The 13 

Plattsburgh 51 

Pleasant  Vallev.  ..148-152 
Ponds,  ^pe'l  head,     x 

Potsram " 181 

PottersAille 180 

Port  Henry 24 

PortKert 31 

Railroads 

Adirondack 189 

Adirondack  (Nor'n)    .57 
Ad-k   &    St.   L...109-E 
Au  Sable  Chasm  «fc  .  i 
Keesville 32 


PAOX. 

A.  &St.  L 207-B 

Au  Sable  (branch). 62-d 
Carthage  &  Adiron- 
dack    207-c 

Chateaugay .  .57,  222-238 

"D.  &H." 226 

Fulton  Chain 205 

Hudson  Rivtr  225 

West  Shore    225 

Raquette  Falls Ill 

RaqnetteLake...  112,  202 
Raquette  River.. 108-109-D 
Ray  Brook.   ......     94 

Red  Horse  Chain.   .207-b 

Riverside 179 

Roaring  Brook  Falls.  163 

Rock  Dunder 31 

Root's 187 

Rouse's  Point 54 

Routes  to  Gateways. .  225 
SaranacLake(village).   98 

Sageville 191 

Sanitarium 95 

Saranac  Club 101 

SaranacLake 62-b 

Schroon  Lake 183 

South  Inlet 204 

SplitRock, 29 

Sporting  outfit 214 

Stage  Lines  to    ^ 

Adirondack  Loge..  149 

BlueMt.  Lake 191 

Elizabethtown 149 

Keen  Vallev 149 

Lake  Placid 149 

Long  Lake 116 

Pauf  Smith's 60 

Schroon  Lake...  149.  180 
St.  Regis  Lake 62-B 

Steamboats 

BlueMt.  Lake 196 

Fulton  Chain 207-A 

Hndson  River 225 

Lake  Champlain, 

10,27,28.55 

Stony  Creek HI 

Sweenev  carry 108 

Tahawa"s(P.  O.^ 125 

Ticonderoga.  Fort...     19 

Valcour  Island 45 

Verorennf  s 29 

Westport 25 

Whitehall 17 

Willsborongh  Point . .     30 

Wilmington 02-D 

Wilmington  Notch...    71 

Wood  Creek 17 

Y.  M.  C.  A 25 


Index. 


LAKES   AND    PONDS. 


ELKVATION.  PAGE. 

Albany  Lake 1,704  207-b 

Ampersand  Pond 8,078 

Auarar  Pond 45 

An  Sable  Lake  (Lower)..  .1.959  169 

All  Sable  Lake  (Upper)..  1.993  169 

Avalanche  Lake 2,856  131 

Beaver  Lake 1,435  207-a 

Blue  Mountain  Lake 1,800  192 

Bog  Lake 1,755  227-b 

Boreas  Pond 2,046 

Bottle  Pond 207-c 

Calamity  Pond 2,712  127 

Canada  Lakes  (West) 2,348  193 

Cascade  Lakes 2,038  83 

Catlin  Lake  1,583  124 

Cedar  Lakes 2,529  191 

Chain  Lake  (Seven) 191 

Champlain 99  15 

Chapel  Pond 1,551  164 

Chateaugay  Lake  (Lower).  56 

Chateaugay  Lake  (Upper).  59 

ChazyLake 1,500  58 

Clear  Lake 2,159  86 

Colden  Lake 131 

Cranberry  Lake 1,540  207-c 

Crooked  L. (Herkimer  Co  )  2,022 

Eagle  Lake 1.800  197 

Elk  Lake  (Mad  Pond)....  1,931  187 

ForkedLake 1,753  120 

Forked  Lake  (Little) .   .    ..  121 

Francis  Lake 1,457  207-b 

Fulton  Chain— First  Lake  1,684  206 

Fulton  Chain— Eighth  L . .  1,803  206 

George  343  243 

Giant's  Washbowl  ....  2  233  164 

Ha4-knes8  Lake 131 

Henderson  Lake 1,874  131 

Indian  Lake 1,705  191 

Lake  Placid  1,863  93 


ELEVATION.      PAGE. 

LeweyLake .....1,738  191 

Long  Lake 1.614  113 

Long  Pond 1,581 

Loon  Lake  (Fraoklin  Co.).  61 

Luzerne  Lake 177 

Massawepi&  Lake 109-c 

Meacham  Lake 53 

Mirror  Lake 1,856  88 

Moose  Lake 1,787  207-a 

Mud  Lake  1,745  207-B 

Paradox  Lake 187 

Paradox  Pond 93 

Pharaoh  Lake  187 

Piseco  Lake 192 

Placid  Lake 1.863  93 

Pleasant 1,706  192 

Preston  Ponds 2,206  131 

Ragged  Lake 53 

Rainbow  Lake 62-a 

RaquetteLake 1,774  121-198 

Raquette  Pond 109-a 

Red  Horse  Cham 1 ,756  207-B 

Round  Lake 1,542  100 

Sanford  Lake 1.800  104 

Saranac  Lake  (Lower)  ...  1.539  96 

Saranac  Lake  (Middle) .   .  1,542  100 

Saranac  Lake  (Upper)  ...1,577  126 

SchroonLake 830  180 

Smith's  Lake 1,725  110 

South  Pd.  (Hamilton  Co.)l  769  184 

Sitony  Creek  Ponds 1,643  111 

St.  Reels  Lakes 1,623  60 

Tear  of  the  clouds 4,321  170 

Thirteenth  Lake 1,953  190 

Titus  Lake 52 

Tapper  Lake  (Big) 1,554  109-B 

Tupper  Lake  (Little) 1,728  111 

Utowana  Lake 201 

West  Canada  Lakes 2,348  202 


MOUNTAINS. 
(Table  of  Elevations.) 


;ANK.  NAME.  ELEV. 

Ampersand 3.432 

Battlett .3,715 

5  Basin 4,905 

Black 2,661 

Blue  Mountain 3.824 

Catamount Mounfc'n  3.128 
Cobble  Hill 1,936 

11    Colden 4,753 

20    Colvin 4,142 

Crane's 3.289 

4    Dix  4.916 

17  Giant 4.530 

18  Gothic 4,744 

6  GravPeak 4.902 

3    Haystack 4,918 

10    Little  Haystack 4,766 

Hopkin's  Peak....    3,136 

Hurricane 3,763 

Indian  Face  (appr.).2,536 


PAGE. 


169 

19 

169 

172 

1 

199 

2 

62 

14 

151 

131 

165 

13 

1.56 

160 

16 

160 

15 

172 

18 

169 

i 

160 

151 

161 

8 

:.                 NAME.                 ELEV.  PAGE. 

Mount  Jo 86 

Lyon  Mountain. .   ..3,809  59 

Macomb 4,371 

Marcy  (Tahawus).. .  .5,344  2-171 

Mclntire 5,201  147 

Nipple  Top  4,684  171 

Noon-Mark 3,548  157^ 

North  River 3.758 

Owl's  Head 2,825  113 

Redfield 4,688 

Resagonia 165 

Saddle  4.536 

Santanoni 4,644 

Seward 4,384  113 

Skylight 4,889  171 

Snowy 3,903 

St.  Regis 2,888  96 

Wallface 3,893  146 

Whiteface 4,871  67 


Index. 


XI. 


HOTELS. 


TAGE. 

Adirondack       House 

(Keene  Valley) 160 

Adirondack       Houie 

(Saranac  Laice)....     98 
Adirondack  Lodge. . .     86 

Algonquin,  The 99-e 

American  II.,  N.  Ck...  189 

Aniiere,  The 193 

Berkele}^  House 98 

Blanchard'8 2()0 

Blue  Mt.  Lake  House.  193 
BlneMt.H.  (Bl.M.  L.)  195 
BrightPideon  R'(i't...  200 

Burlington,  Hotel 32 

Call  s  Hotel 192 

Camp  Craig 207-a 

Cascade  Lake  House.    84 

Castle  Rustico 95 

Cedar  I.  Camp 207-a 

Chasm  House 52 

Champlain,  Hotel  ...  47 
Chazj  Lake  House. . .     58 

Chester  House 179 

ChildwoldP'KH....109-c 
Clear  Pond  H.  Big...  261 
Cranberry  Lake  H...207-C 

Crystal  Spring  H 62-b 

Cumberlaiid  H 52 

Elba  House 96 

E^tes  House 160 

Fair  A'iew  House 195 

Fen  ton  House 207-a 

Flume  Cottage 161 

Forge  House 206 

Fourth  L.  H 206 

Foquet  House 52 

Gibbs  House 25 

Grove  Ft.  H.  (Sc'n  L.)  183 
Grove  H.  (Long  L.)..  115 
Grand  View  House. . .  91 
Hathorn's  Golden  Bh.  200 

Hemlocks,  The 198 

Hiawatha  House Ill 

Hotel  Ampersand 99-a 

Hotel  Champlain 47 

Hotel  Flanagan 56 


PAGE. 

H"l  Wlndsor(Ro's'sPt)  54 
Indian  Point  House. .  61 
Interlaken,  The  ....  45 
Keene  Centre  House.  83 
Lake  Placid  House. . .  93 
Lake  House  (Schroon)  185 
Lake  Pleasant  Inn. ..  192 

Lakeside  House 109 

Lake  View  House  35 

Lee  House 23 

Leland  Cottage 187 

Leiand  House     183 

Lewey  Lake  House..  193 

Lin  wood  Cottage 98 

Long  Lake  Hotel 114 

Loon  Lake  House  . . .  01 
McCoy's  Rustic  L'd'e  105 

Mansion  House 148 

Martin's 96 

Maple  Grove  Mt.  H..  161 
Meacham  Lake  House    56 

Merriirs 60 

Mirror  Lake  Hotel. ...  89 
Moose  River  House..  205 

Mt.  Morris  House 109-p 

Mountain  View    (  N. 

Elba) 84 

Mount'nView  (Frank- 
lin County) 56 

North  River  Hotel ....  190 

Ondawa  House 186 

Paul     Smith's     (  St. 

Regis) 62-B 

Pleasant  View  House    25 

Pond  View  House 99-y 

Prospect  House  (Blue 

Mountain  Lake 195 

Prospect  H.  (Schr'n) .  187 

Poltersville  Hotel 181 

Rainbow  House 62-a 

Raquette  Falls  Hotel..  Ill 

Ray  Brook  House 96 

Ralph's 59 

Redside  Camp 109-e 

Rockwell's  Hotel 178 

Riverside  House 97 


page. 

River  View  House 178 

Rush  Point  Camp....  200 

Rustic  Lodge 105 

Root's 187 

Sagamore  (Long  L.)..  114 
St.  Hubert's  Cottage..  163 

St.  Hubert's  Inn 162 

Saranac  Inn 106 

Saranac  Lake  House.  .99-0 
Schroon  Lake  House..  195 
Stevens  H.  (L. Placid).    92 

Storrs  House 62-e 

St.  Regis  Lake  H 6a-B 

Tahawus  House. .     ..  160 

Taylor  House 182 

Tromblee's 108 

Tupper  Lake  H 109-F 

Under  Cliff 95 

Valley  House 148 

Van  Ness  House 32 

Watch  Rock  Hotel...  182 

Wawbeek  Lodge 107 

Wayside  (Luzerne) . . .  178 

Westportinn 27 

Wells  House 181 

AA'hite  Face  Inn 94 

White  Face  Mt.  H . .  ..62-D 
Willsborongh,  The...  30 
Windsor  (Elizab'ht'u)  149 
Windsor  (Schroon  L.)  186 
Witherill  House 52 

Albany. 

Hotel     Kenmore...  235 

Lake  George. 

Fort  Wm.  Henrv...  230 
Hundred  Island  H..  233 

Burleigh  House 233 

Marion  House 232 

Pearl  Point 232 

Saratoga. 

Clarendon 281 

Dr.  Strongs 261 

Windsor 261 


Au  Sable  Chasm 40 

An  Sable  Lake 166-c 

Biue  Mount'n  Lake..  199 

Champlain  Lake 16 

Childwold  Park 109-c 

Elizabethtown 166-a 

Forked  Lake 199 


MAPS. 

Gateways xiii 

Keene  Vallev 156 

Lake  Placid'. 94 

Port  Kent  Route 26 

Raquette  River 116 

Raquette  Lake 199 

Saranac  L'ke  (low'r).  98 


Saranac  L'ke(upp'ri..  107 

Saranac  Inn  Co 107 

Schroon  Lake. 181 

Tupper  Lake.  .  .109-F  116 
Westport     to     Lake 
Placid 160-A 


GATEWAYS  TO  THE  ADIRONDACKS. 


(Page  reference  refers  to  pa^es  in  "The  Adirondacks  Illustrated.") 

Please  to  consider  Mount 
Marcy  the  pivot  on  which  mighty 
hands  turn  around  over  the  dial 
of  the  Adirondacks,  and  Platts- 
burgh  will  fairly  represent  I 
o'clock,  Port  Kent  II,  Westport 
III.  For  convenience,  there- 
fore, we  will  call  Plattsburgh 
Gateway  No.  i,  and  let  others 
follow  in  order  as  the  hand  turns 
the  familiar  way  around  the  en- 
tire circle.  Distances  are  given 
here  in  black  figures  and  are 
reckoned  from  gateways  in  every 
instance  unless  otherwise  ex- 
plained. Fares  are  also  given 
from  "  gateways  "  or  point  speci- 
fied. 

NO.  1,  PLATTSBURGH, 
via  Chateaugay  R.  R.  to  Danne- 
mora.  70c.;  Chazy  Lake  Sta- 
tion, $1.20  ;  Lyon  Mountain, 

$1.40  (stage  to  Ralph's  and  Merrill's,   50  cents);  Loon  Lake,    $2.40; 
(stage    to    Loon     Lake 
House, 50  cents);Bloom. 


CmAWAvoat  lakes 
^.jqH  mount  aim 


ingdale,  $3.00  (stage  to 
Crystal  Spring  House, 25 
cents  ;  stage  to  Paul 
Smith's. |i. 00) ;  Saranac 
Lake,  )s;3.35;  stage  to 
Miller's,  The  Algonquin 
and  Hotel  Ampersand, 
50  cents  each  (page  96); 
stage  to  Lake  Placid, 
^1.25;  (page  89);  stage 
to  Saranac  Inn,  $1.50 
(page  105). 

From  Plattsburgh  via 
Branch  R.  R.  to  Au  Sa- 
ble Station,$i.oo;  stage 
(morning)  to  Keene  Val- 
ley (page  153)  Wilmington,  $2.00  ;  Lake  Placid, 

NO.  2,  P  O  R  T 
KENT,  by  K.,  A.  C 
&  L.  C.  R.  R.  to  Au 
Sable  Chasm.  (See 
■pages  33  to  45).  Au 
Sable  Station,  (morn- 
ing stage),  i^i.so;  "Wil- 
mington, $2.50;  Lake 
Placid,  $4.00  (page 
89). 


.50  (page  89). 


Figures  ihoM  dit*ant9 


Gateways. 
n0.3,westp0rt, 

stage  (connecting  with 
all  irains  and  boats),  to 
Elizabeth!  OWE ,  J^  i .  oo ; 
(page  148).  Stages  from 
midday  tr.,in  and  after- 
noon boat  at  Westport, 
run  to  Keene  Valley- 
passing  all  hotels  to  St! 
Hubert's  Inn.  Fare 
$2.50.  (See  p.  153).  Keene  Valley  to  Au  Sable  Lake  morning  and 
afternoon.  Stage  fare,  75c.  Stages  from  Elizabethtown,  morning' 
to  Keen,  $2  50;  Cascade  House,  $3.00;  Adirondack  Lodge,  I4.50' 
Ames',  I3.50;  Lake  Placid,  $4.     (See  pages  S3  to  94.) 

NO.  4,  PORT  HENRY, 
stage  (evening)  to  Mineville, 
morning  st^ge  from  Mine- 
ville to  Root's,  $1.50;  (Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Satur- 
day.) to  Newcomb,  I3.00. 

NO.  5,  CROWN  POINT, 
C.  P.  I.  R.  R.  to   Hammondville,  60c; 
to   Paradox,  $1.10;   Schroon  Lake, 

NO.       6,        TICONDEROGA 
from  Delano  to   Ticonderoga 
mites.     (Hotel,     Burleigh 
to     Schroon    Lake,    20 


stage 

$2.10. 

Branch 

Village,    2 

House.)      Special 

,    __    miles,    or    Root's, 

thence  to  Long  Lake,  same  as  No.  4. 

FORT  TICONDEROGA  (station);    train 

through  Lake  George    to     

Caldwell. 

NO.  7,   SARATOGA, 
to   Luzerne,  69c;     (page 
i77)Riverside,$i.5o;  stage 
toChestertown,$2.25;  Pot- 
tersville,    $2.50  ;    head  of 
Schroon  Lake,  (steamer), 
$3-25.      (See    page     180.) 
Saratoga  to  NorthCreek, 
$1.74;   (page  189)  stage  to 
North  River.$2.25;(page 
190),  Indian  Lake, $3. 50; 
Blue    Mountain    Lake,     4.75;    (page     193) 
Long  Lake,  $6.25;  page 
ir4)through  Blue  Mt.  and 
Raquette    Lake  to 
Forked  Lake  Carry,  by 
steamer,    $6.50.      (Pages 
121  and  202.) 

NO.  8,  FONDA,  Rail- 
road  to  Northville,  Si. 00; 
stage  to  Sageville,  $3.00. 
For  WoodhuU  Lake  and 
Bisby  Chain  leave  the 
R.    W.   &   O.    Railroad   at 


CROWN 


to  Baldwin,    steamer 


_.  Alder  Creek  Sta- 
tion, special  to  White  Lake,  9  miles;  to  Wood- 
hull  Lake,   19  miles. 


Gateways. 


ALDER   CREEK  to    Honnedaga    Lake. 
Club  preserve),  "^o  miles,  special  conveyance. 

NO.  9,  BOONEVILLE.  Stage  daily 
to  Moose  River,  12  miles,  $1.00.  Rail- 
road to  Minnehaha,  20  miles,  $2.00. 
Steamer  to  Forge  House,  $3.00.  Steam- 
er on  Fulton  Chain  to  head  of  Fourth 
Lake  (steamer  12  miles,  |i.oo).  Page 
206. 

NO.     10,       LOWVILLE,     stage     to 


(Adirondack  League 


25 14  ^"^^^^ 


"Number  Four,"  Beaver  Lake,  iS  miles  (special   4  or  5  persons, 
$6.)     To  Stillwater,  $12.     (Page  211.) 

NO.  11,  CARTHAGE,  Railroad  to  Lake  Bonaparte,  17  miles, 
54  cents  ;  Oswegatchie,  39  miles,  $1.17  ;  Benson  Mines,  44  miles, 

$1.32;  Cranberry  Lake  overflow  (trail)  48 
miles  ;  Cranberry  Lake  House,  guide's 
boat,  =;4  miles,     (See  page  213.) 

no:  12,  DE  KALB  JUNCTION,  stage 
to  Clarksboro,  22  miles,  special  conveyance 
to  Cranberry  Lake,  36  miles.  (Page  207-c.) 
NO.  13,  POTSDAM,  stage  daily  to  Col- 
ton,  75  cents  ;  South  Colton,  $1.  To  Stark, 
(Monday, Wednesdav .and  Friday,  at  7  a.  m.), 
|i .75 ;  Sevey,  $2.75 ;'  Childwold,  I3.  (Page 
109-A.) 

N0.14,  MORIA,R.R.  to  St.Regis  Falls, 
50  cents  ;  Santa  Clara,  go  cents  ;  Spring 
Cove,  $1.15;  (Blue  Mountain  House,  4 
miles  from  Spring  Cove,  fare  75  cents;) 
Paul  Smith  Station,  $1.50;  Paul 
Smith's  (siage),  $2.  (Page  57.)  Sar- 
anac  Inn  Station,  $2;  (Saranac  Inn 
by  stage, $1);  Childwold  Station, $2. 50; 
(Childwold  Park  House,  by  stage,  $1  ; 
page  109-C.)  Tupper  Lake  Station, 
^2.50;  (Wawbeek 
Lodge,  by  stage.  JfJi.) 
Steamboat  to  Tup- 
per Lake  House, 
$3.50  ;  page  109-E. 

NO.  15,  MA- 
LONE,  stage  (Mon- 
day, Wednesday  and 
Friday)  to  Duane, 
$1.50;  Loon  Lake, 
$3.     (Page  55). 

NO.  16,  CHATEAUGAY,  daily  stage  to  the 
foot  of  Lower  Chateaugay  Lake,  50  cents.  A 
steamer  runs  daily,  making  the  excursion  of  the 
two  lakes,  $r.     See  pages  55  and  59  to  62. 


JOKOt 
HILDnRl 

.pf°*'      .  IPs 6     64    ioo<^B 


1^ 


THE  ADIRONDICKS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
In  General. 

N  wings  of  thought  swifter  than  the  light- 
ning's flash  we  sweep  away  across  the  drowsy 
earth,  over  ■  smoke -polluted  cities,  sun- 
scorched  meadows,  burning  plain  and  high- 
ways with  their  flaunting  skirts  of  sand,  nor 
rest  until  the  fragrant  odor  of  wild  flowers 
and  the  dewy  breath  of  forest  trees  come 
like  incense  wafted  to  us  from  below. 

Come  with  me  up  into  a  high  mountain. 
I  cannot  show  you  "  all  the  kingdoms  of 
the  world," — but  "the  glory  of  them."  Over  a  rippling 
ocean  of  forests  first,  in  long,  swelling  waves  now  rising, 
now  sinking  down  into  deep  hollows ;  here  in  grand  moun- 
tains, crested  as  with  caps  of  foam,  there  tormented  by 
counter  currents  into  wildly  dashing  shapes,  like  ocean  bil- 
lows frozen  by  Divine  command,  their  summit-glittering 
granite,  their  deep  green  troughs,  gleaming  with  threads  of 
silver  and  bits  of  fallen  sky. 

Now  the  trees  of  the  valley  glide  away  behind  us,  then 
come  dark  spruce  and  pine  and  the  sturdy  balsam  climbing 
the  mountain-side  —  tall  and  graceful  at  first,  but  growing 
smaller  as  they  rise,  gnarled  and  twisted,  and  scarce  above 
the  surface,  sending  their  branches  out  close  along  the 
ground,  their  white  tops  bleached  and  ghastly,  like  dead 
roots  of  upturned  trees,  the  hardy  lichens  still  higher ;  then 
comes  naked  rock,  and  we  stand  on  the  wind-swept  summit 


2  The  Adirondacks. 

of  the  monarch  of  the  Adirondacks — "  Tahawus,"  the 
cloud-spHtter  of  the  Indian. 

Around  their  chief,  cluster  the  other  great  peaks  —  east, 
west,  north,  south,  Hmitless,  numberless,  a  confused  mass  of 
peaks  and  ridges,  crowding  close  up  to  the  base  of  the  one 
on  which  we  stand,  and  receding  in  waves  of  green  all  down 
through  the  scale  of  color  to  its  blue  and  purple  edge.  Pen 
cannot  convey  an  idea  of  its  sublimity ;  the  pencil  fails  to 
even  suggest  the  blended  strength  and  delicacy  of  the  scene. 
The  rude  laugh  is  hushed,  the  boisterous  shout  dies  out  on 
reverential  lips,  the  body  shrinks  down,  feeling  its  own  little- 
ness, while  the  soul  expands,  and,  rising  above  the  earth, 
claims  kinship  with  its  Creator,  questioning  not  His 
existence. 

Standing  on  this,  the  highest  point  in  the  State  of  New 
York,  5,344  feet  above  tide,  we  will  glance  at  the  country 
around.  The  term,  at  first  applied  to  this  cluster  of  moun- 
tains, which  occupy  less  than  one-quarter  of  the  region,  has 
come  by  usage  to  mean  the  entire  wilderness,  an  area  of 
over  8,000  square  miles  of  almost  unbroken  forest.  The 
grand  mountain  region  is  in  the  center  on  the  east,  dropping 
off  suddenly  into  Lake  Champlain  ;  around  it,  and  sweeping 
away  to  the  west,  is  a  vast,  comparatively  level  plateau, 
nearly  2,000  feet  above  tide,  with  here  and  there  a  moun- 
tain peak  overlooking  the  plain,  the  two  regions  differing  in 
every  respect,  save  in  the  dense  forests  that  cover  both.  If 
you  are  given  to  muscular  exercise,  climbing  and  viewing 
nature  from  high  places,  choose  the  eastern  portion.  If  con- 
stitutionally tired,  or  inclined  to  dream  away  the  quiet  hours, 
then  go  to  the  magnificent  west,  where  lakes  and  streams 
are  so  closely  connected  that  almost  every  mile  of  that  vast 
tract  may  be  traversed  by  boat,  save  short  carries  from  one 
water  system  into  another,  or  around  some  fall.  Camping 
even  is  not  necessary  if  you  prefer  hotel  life,  for  there  are 
but  few  wilderness  routes  that  do  not  have  halting  places 
less  than  a  day's  journey  apart. 


In  General.  3 

The  Adirondack  wilderness,  as  known  to  the  public  gen- 
erally, may  be  divided  into  three  general  divisions  or  sys- 
tems, which  collectively  entertain  the  great  bulk  of  visitors, 
and  are  representatives  of  the  whole,  namely,  the  Saranac 
and  St.  Regis  waters  of  Franklin  county,  whose  natural  gate- 
way is  Plattsburgh  and  Port  Kent ;  the  mountain  region  of 
Keene,  North  Elba  and  Lake  Placid,  in  Essex  county,  with 
entrance  at  Westport ;  and  the  Blue  Mountain  and  Raquette 
waters,  in  Hamilton  county,  reached  by  way  of  the  Adiron- 
dack railroad  from  Saratoga. 

Of  these  sections  the  first-mentioned  has  become  the 
more  widely  celebrated  as  a  region  where  fashion  and  fish- 
ing is  admirably  blended,  and  has  its  patrons  who  are 
looked  for  as  regularly  as  the  seasons.  The  second  is  less 
known  in  fact,  but  its  grand  mountains  and  lovely  valleys 
have  become  familiar  on  the  canvas  of  great  painters ;  while 
the  Raquette  region  has  an  air  of  newness  and  morning 
freshness,  as  if  just  awakened  from  a  long  and  refreshing 
sleep,  and  is  making  rapid  strides  in  popular  favor.  Each 
section,  while  possessing  something  of  the  characteristics  of 
the  others,  has  its  own  individual  attractions;  and  while 
connected  by  natural  highways,  over  which  the  nomad  often 
goes,  they  still  to  a  considerable  extent  preserve  their  indi- 
viduality, and  each  is  complete  and  sufiicient  unto  itself. 

Among  the  less  noted  divisions  are  the  Grass  and  Oswe- 
gatchie  region,  in  St.  Lawrence  county,  which  probably 
contains  the  most  game,  because  less  visited ;  the  Beaver 
and  Moose  river  region,  in  Herkimer,  somewhat  tame,  but 
affording  excellent  hunting  and  fishing;  and  the  Lake 
Pleasant  region,  in  southern  Hamilton  county,  all  of  them 
with  more  or  less  local  interest  and  a  patronage  derived  prin- 
cipally from  the  cities  of  Central  and  Western  New  York. 
Keene  Valley  is  a  favorite  resort  with  artists.  Raquette 
I^ake  has  the  most  elaborate,  and  the  Upper  Saranac  the 
greatest  number  of  private  camps  occupied  during  the  season. 


4  The  Adirondacks. 

Places  of  entertainment,  from  the  well-appointed  hotel  on 
the  border  to  the  rude  log-house  and  open  camp  of  the 
interior,  are  found  at  intervals  throughout  the  entire  wilder- 
ness, all  waiting  with  open  doors  to  receive  the  stranger,  the 
consideration  being  from  $3  per  day  down  to  $5  per  week ; 
for  particulars  concerning  which  see  under  heading  of 
"  Hotels,"  following  index. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  Adirondack  region  is  its  freedom 
from  rough  or  vicious  characters.  Evil  finds  nothing  con- 
genial in  its  bright  skies  and  pure,  fresh  atmosphere.  Con- 
ventionalities that  obtain  at  other  resorts  are  not  held 
binding  here;  the  fact  of  actual  presence  is  accepted  as 
guaranty  of  the  possession  of  those  mutual  sympathies  and 
qualifications  which  here,  at  least,  make  the  whole  world  kin, 
and  makes  it  possible  for  gentlemen  to  wear  blue  shirts  and 
old  hats,  and  ladies  to  travel  without  male  escort  from  one 
end  of  the  wilderness  to  the  other.  Indeed,  it  is  no  uncom- 
mon thing  for  parties  of  ladies  to  make  the  tour  of  the 
woods,  accompanied  only  by  the  necessary  complement  of 
guides  to  furnish  motive  power,  spending  day  after  day  in 
their  boat,  and  at  night  reaching  one  step  farther  in  the 
extended  system  of  hotels. 

Outfit. —  Full  dress  is  seldom  seen,  even  at  the  most 
fashionable  resorts,  and  is  exceeded  in  absurdity  only  by  the 
conventional  stage  trapper,  who  occasionally  bursts  upon 
the  astonished  wilderness  in  fringed  buckskin,  and  is  marked 
at  once  as  a  '*  fresh."  Your  right  to  enter  the  best  society 
will  not  be  questioned  because  of  dress.  Clothing  ordi- 
narily worn  is  sufiicient  for  all  occasions,  with  perhaps  the 
addition  of  a  soft  felt  hat  and  roomy  walking  shoes  or  boots 
for  boat  or  tramp. 

Camp  and  Sporting  Outfit,  clothing,  supplies,  etc.,  are 
given  in  a  special  chapter,  with  various  suggestions ;  how 
ever,  a  complete  list  of  articles  considered  necessary  or  conv 
venient  should  be  made  out,  in  advance  of  the  time  foii 
departure,  by  each  individual;   then,  in  committee  of  the 


In  General.  5 

whole,  decide  on  what  is  really  necessary  or  suitable,  taking 
into  consideration  the  nature  of  the  trip  and  means  of 
reaching  the  appointed  camping  ground.  If  it  be  not  over- 
difficult  of  access,  carry  anything  which  will  contribute  to 
your  reasonable  comfort,  in  the  way  of  blankets,  clothing, 
etc.  Do  not  sleep  m  the  clothing  worn  during  the  day,  if 
it  can  be  avoided  —  it  is  a  positive  luxury  to  be  able  to 
make  an  entire  change  for  night  use. 

The  gloriously  healthful  air  of  the  wilderness  will  unques- 
tionably give  you  new  life  and  vigor,  but  it  labors  at  a  ter- 
rible disadvantage,  if  at  the  beginning  your  bed  of  boughs 
affords  no  rest;  where  sleep  comes  only  with  complete 
exhaustion,  as  is  often  the  case  in  the  first  few  nights  of 
camp  life,  and  where  the  early  morning  finds  you  pitiably 
weak  and  languid,  and  ready  to  move  simply  because  motion 
is  a  relief  to  the  poor  bruised  body  and  aching  joints. 
"  Roughing  it "  is  grand  in  theory,  and  sounds  well  in  after 
history,  but  is  bad  in  practice  and  often  impedes,  if  it  does 
not  entirely  defeat  the  object  for  which  it  was  undertaken. 
You  are  presumably  out  for  pleasure,  do  not,  therefore, 
make  severe  labor  of  it ;  have  paid  help  sufficient  to  do 
camp  work,  if,  at  any  time,  inclination  tempt  you  to  watch 
the  zenith  from  some  mossy  vantage  ground,  or  to  drift  idly 
among  the  still  waters,  absorbing  with  newly  awakened 
instincts  the  subde  lessons  taught  by  nature. 

If  your  party  can  affi^rd  the  expense,  take  your  cook 
along.  Guides,  as  a  rule,  can  prepare  an  acceptable  forest 
meal,  and  some  are  very  skillful  in  that  Hne,  but  the  very 
qualities  which  contribute  to  make  the  successful  guide  — 
"the  mighty  hunter" — often  renders  him  indifferent  to  the 
quality  of  his  food,  and  incapable  of  understanding  the 
cravings  of  a  delicate  appetite ;  at  all  events,  carry  a  cook 
book.  Camp  fare  is  apt  to  become  monotonous  after  a 
time,  and  although  familiar  with  a  hundred  dishes,  when 
brought  face  to  face  with  the  appalling  necessity  of  prepar- 
ing a  straight  meal,  your  mind  becomes  a  blank  and  you 


6  The  Adirondacks. 

drop  weakly  back  to  the  same  old  stew  of  yesterday— and 
the  day  before  —  and  life  becomes  a  burden. 

Expenses  cannot  be  fairly  estimated,  varying  so  widely 
with  the  habits  and  requirements  of  different  individuals. 
If  you  travel  simply  in  channels  having  public  conveyance, 
the  cost  may  be  accurately  determined  by  referring  to  fares, 
etc.,  found  under  their  a.ppropriate  heading  in  this  book. 
If  you  go  outside  the  public  lines  of  travel,  or  camp,  you 
will  require  the  service  of  a  guide.  25  to  30  cents  per  day 
will  supply  the  table  with  necessaries,  and  some  luxuries 
even,  for  each  person  while  in  camp. 

Guides,  terms  for  service,  suggestions,  etc.,  page  214. 

Hotels. — Information  relating  to  hotels  is  gathered  an- 
nually, and  prices  charged  for  board  given  with  notice  of 
house  in  "  Hotel  Directorv,"  at  back  of  book,  for  which  see 
special  index,  page  vii. 

"  Gateways  "  will  lead  you  from  circumference  to  centre 
of  the  wilderness,  with  line,  distances  and  fares  ;  while  under 
the  heading  of  "  railroads,  steamboats  and  stages,"  will  be 
found  approaches  and  general  information  —  for  all  of  which 
see  index. 

Trout,  their  habits  and  peculiarities,  with  suggestions  as 
to  outfit,  fishing,  etc.,  is  treated  at  length  in  chapter  XIX. 
The  article  is  from  the  pen  of  A.  N.  Cheney,  of  Glens 
Falls,  an  enthusiastic  votary  of  the  gentle  art,  and  authority 
in  the  matter  whereof  he  speaks,  and  gives,  in  readable 
shape  more  solid  information  ot  use  to  those  who  would 
enjoy  the  same  than  a  dozen  of  the  ordinary  fishing 
romances  of  the  day,  with  their  sensations,  impi^jssions, 
tingles,  thrills  and  frills. 

Finally,  bear  in  mind  that  this  volume  is  designed  to  give 
its  readers,  in  convenient  shape,  information  of  general 
interest  to  the  ninety  and  nine  concerning  points  and  places, 
r,oad,s  and  regions  visited  by  them,  with  hints  and  sugges- 
tions of  the  deeper  mysteries  of  camp  and  trail  that  may 


In  General. 


serve  to  pilot  the  one-hundredth  to  points  where  the  intelh- 
gent  guide  becomes  an  absolute  necessity,  and  beyond  which 
direction  in  book  form  would  confuse,  rather  than  instruct. 
For  the  sake  of  clearness,  therefore,  we  have  omitted  descrip- 
tion of  the  multitude  of  minor  lakes,  ponds,  streams  and 
trails  which  duplicate  each  other  over  the  entire  wilderness, 
and  which  cannot  be  followed  without  the  aid  of  an  experi- 
enced guide.  To  those  who  would  have  a  comprehensive 
idea  of  the  whole  region,  it  is  hoped  the  map,  designed  to 
supplement  the  information  contained  herein,  will  be  a  wel- 
come companion  until  it  can  be  safely  laid  aside  for  the  more 
specific  knowledge  of  the  guide,  whose  office  neither  book 
nor  map  can  ever  fill. 

As  the  map  of  the  wilderness  is  introduced,  it  may  not  be 

entirely  uninteresting  to  ex- 
plain its  manner  of  build- 
ing. A  large  portion  of  the 
great  Adirondack  region  has 
never  been  surveyed  with 
chain  and  rod,  and  probably 
will  not  be  for  years  to  come, 
but  the  rapid  development 
of  portions  and  the  grow, 
ing  importance  of  the 
whole  as  a  summer  resort 
makes  necessary  a  mdp  made 
specially  to  meet  the  re- 
quirements of  tourist  and 
sportsman. 

In  its  construction,  all  available  sources  of  information 
have  been  brought  into  requisition.  Important  points 
outside  the  wilderness  proper  were  determined  in 
accordance  with  official  surveys,  and  connected  with 
the  mountains  of  the  interior,  whose  principal  peaks 
were     accurately    located    by    triangulation    made    expressly 


MIVIATURE  SKETCH   OF   MAP. 


8  The  Adirondacks. 

for  this  work.  Access  has  also  been  had  to  important  sur* 
veys  made  under  State  patronage  and  by  private  parties, 
which  are  now,  for  the  first  time,  given  to  the  pubhc  in  map 
form.  In  addition  to  this  absolutely  reliable  material,  draw- 
ings of  small  sections  on  an  extended  scale,  covering  in  the 
aggregate  the  entire  region,  were  sent  in  duplicate  to  men 
famihar  with  the  various  localities  for  correction,  and  were 
made  as  full  and  complete  as  possible  —  careful  attention  be- 
ing given  to  proportion  and  distance  —  with  wild  trails,  car- 
ries, ponds  and  streams,  many  of  which  are  now  for  the  first 
time  laid  down  on  any  map.  Reduced  to  an  uniform  scale 
by  photography,  the  result,  it  is  believed,  approaches  per- 
fection  as  nearly  as  can  be,  short  of  actual  trigonometrical 
survey.  It  gives  altitudes,  as  determined  by  late  measure- 
ment ;  the  location  of  all  hotels  and  principal  camps,  with 
roads  leading  thereto ;  shows  distance  in  figures  on  roads, 
trails  and  streams,  and  indicates  also  the  nature  of  the  latter 
in  important  instances.  All  roads  within  its  limits  are  care- 
fully laid  down,  the  leading  ones  distinguished  from  those 
less  important  by  being  in  solid  black  fine,  and  altogetheir 
showing,  by  their  number  or  entire  absence  in  places,  the 
cultivated  or  wilderness  nature  of  that  particular  region. 

To  the  gathering,  compilation  and  reduction  of  the  mass 
of  material  made  use  of,  and  its  final  redrawing  for  the 
engraver  the  entire  autumn  and  winter  of  1879  were  given 
and  finally,  with  a  feeling  of  tenderness  which  can  be 
appreciated  only  by  those  who,  in  a  labor  of  love,  have  seen 
its  object  growing  under  their  hands  from  day  to  day  until 

completion,  it  was  sent  forth  for  such  welcome  as  it  might 
find. 

Since  its  completion  in  1879,  as  above,  annual  editions 
have  been  issued,  revised,  and  corrected,  to  keep  pace  with 
the  changes  in  road  and  trail,  and  for  the  addition  of  camp 
or  hotel  in  this  rapidly-growing  region. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Narrative. 

ING  up  the  curtain  to  low,  sweet  music,  the 
music  of  a  September  night,  the  blending  of  the 
myriad  voices  of  the  swamp  into  one  long  mono- 
tone, that  seems  to  make  you,  wherever  you 
stand  and  listen,  its  center.  The  scene  is  a  dark 
waste  of  water,  up  out  of  which  grow  reeds 
and  coarse  grasses,  that  sway  back  and  forth 
with  the  surging  waves ;  over  at  the  west  is  a 
low  range  of  bluffs ;  on  the  east  are  mountains ; 
near  by,  dusky  white  strips  run  here  and  there, 
beyond  which  a  broader  one  reflects  the 
cloudy  sky,  dark  bodies  are  moving  slowly 
along  and  lights  twinkle  as  they  pass  to  and 
fro ;  beyond,  and  to  the  south,  a  high  hill  rises  up,  belted  with 
strings  of  stars ;  at  its  base  they  hang  in  clusters ;  they  sepa- 
rate and  pass  up  and  down,  are  swung  in  circles,  disappear  and 
appear  again  in  a  most  curious  manner,  and  faintly  comes  the 
voices  of  the  boatmen,  the  drivers,  the  lock-tenders,  and  the 
busy  hum  of  the  distant  village.  At  the  north,  where  the 
western  wall  comes  down,  the  solid  rock  is  notched  out,  ovei 
which  rises  the  rocky  crests  of  a  mountain  range,  while  away 
beyond  winds  the  marsh-embordered  rock-hemmed  waters  of 
Lake  Champlain. 

A  low,  rumbling  sound  comes  from  the  south,  then  the  solid 
wall  that  shuts  us  in  on  that  side  seems  riven  asunder,  and  from 
out  the  fkartb,  with  breath  of  flame,  and  eve  of  fire  gleaming 


TO  The  Adirondacks. 

out  ahead,  thunders  the  night  express.  Across  the  mareh. 
it  comes,  bringing  in  its  train  a  host  of  lesser  lights,  and 
with  a  shriek  that  clashes  sharply  and  is  broken  into  a  con- 
fused din  of  echoes,  it  plunges  into  the  northern  wall,  through 
the  narrow  cut  to  the  other  side,  and  with  the  hiss  of  escaping 
steam,  the  noisy  clanging  of  its  bell,  the  rattling  of  iron  rods 
ind  links,  the  trembling,  jerking  and  swaying  of  the  long 
coaches,  as  the  brakes  are  drawn  hard  against  the  moving 
Rrheels;  then  with  the  dying  roar  of  its  subsiding  power,  the 
iron  monster  rests  at  the  end  of  its  journey.  Just  for  the  mo- 
ment we  feel  the  hush. 

*' the  rest  of  the  tide  between  the  ebb  and  the  flow." 


Then  the  nature  of  the  sounds  change,  the  quick,  sharp 
words  of  command,  of  shouting  and  confusion,  the  shut- 
fling  of  feet,  as  streams  of  life  pour  out  from  the  various 
coaches,  and  convergirg,  flow  over  the  broad  plank  on  to 
the  boat  that  has  been  waiting  to  rec  eive  them  ;  there  is  no 
need  of  asking  the  way ;  it  is  plain  to  all,  for  while  on  the  left 
is  nothing  but  darkness  and  a  dingy,  uninviting  pile  of  build< 
ings,  on  the  right  rises  a  great  mass  of  white,  with  moving 
forms  and  flashing  light ;  windows  bright,  with  stained  glass 
and  frosted  silver,  rising  tier  on  tier,  begirt  with  beams 
and  rods  of  iron,  and  above  all.  coming  up  from  the  fires  be- 
low, wave  banners  of  flame,  whose  fiery  particles  separating, 
dance  away  and  are  lost  in  the  darkness.  Whew  I  What  a 
storm,  not  a  thunder  storm  exactly,  although  there  are  indi- 
cations of  the  sulphurous  in  the  language  sometimes  heard,  but 
a  shower  of  baggage ;  it  rains  trunks,  boxes,  satchels,  bun- 
dles, bags,  from  the  car  which  has  been  brought  to  a  stop 
directlv  in  front  of  the  gang-plank,  and  a  double  stream  of 
trucks,  drawn  and  propelled  by  stalwart  men,  go  down  undei 
huge  loads,  and,  coming  up  empty,  run  and  wheel  and  dodge 
about,  appearing  always  on  the  point  of,  but  never  actually 
getting  run  over. 

Through  all  the  confusion  the  man  who  seems  to  have  the 
least  to  do  stands  quietly  by  the  rail,  seeing  every  thing,  bat 
laving  nothing,  unless  occasionally  to  give  a  command  in  a 
uw  tone;  then,  as  the  last  truck  load  is  on  the  move,  h« 


Under  Weigh  ii 

Umchet  acord  at  hit  hand,  a  bell  up  in  the  pilot  house  tinkles,  a 
few  quick  ftrokeson  the  big  bell  follows,  the  last  man  rushes 
over  the  plank,  which  is  pulled  aboard,  and  the  great  hawsers 
are  cast  oflf ;  then,  again,  the  little  bell,  up  where  the  pilot  stands 
signifies  that  the  boat  is  from  thence  out  under  his  control, 
and  he  is  responsible  for  her  safety.  Now,  down  along  the 
writes  to  the  engine-room  the  message  goes;  we  hear  the  long 
hollow  breathing  of  the  steam  as  it  rushes  into  the  cylinder; 
the  ponderous  beam  above  tips  slowly  on  its  center;  the 
wheels  seem  stepping  on  the  water  as  they  revolve ;  the  great 
mass  swings  out  into  the  channel,  and  moves  away  through 
the  night  like  a  great  pearl  surrounded  by  a  luminous  atmos- 
phere.    A  little  shining  world  all  alone  by  itself.* 

Thus  we  saw  it  one  night  in 
the  autumn  of  '73.  We  means 
the  professor  and  myself.  Who 
the  professor  is,  or  what  he  pro- 
fesses, doesn't  matter,  as  long 
as   this    is   a    non-professional 


trip ;  but  it  may  be  of  interest 
considering  the  field  selected 
for  our  observations  to  know 
that  the  professor  is  not  actually 
stupendous,  either  in  length, 
breadth  or  thickness,  and  not 
particular  about  his  diet;  perish  the  thought  I  He  simply 
abstains  from  the  absorption  of  that  mysterious  compound 
known  as  hash,  on  account  of  the  uncertainty  of  its  origin. 
Revolts  at  sight  of  sausages,  as  it  is  unpleasantly  suggestive 
of  a  dear  little  dog  that  he  once  loved.  Can't  endure  cream 
m  his  coffee,  because  it  "looks  so,  floating  round  on  top," 
and  whose  heart  bleeds  and  appetite  vanishes  if  an  unlucky 
fly  chances  to  take  a  hot  bath  in  his  tea.  To  these  peculi- 
arities, add  a  disposition  to  see  the  fun  in  his  own  foilornness, 
and  with  boyishness  dyed  in  the  wool,  the  professor  stands 
before  you.  As  for  the  author  of  this,  perhaps  the  least  said 
the  better.  He  hasn't  the  heart  to  say  any  thing  bad,  and  a 
determination  to  confine  himself  strictly  to  facts,  interfere! 
•omewhat  with  the  glowing  eulogy  struggling  to  find  vent 

'Tbe  boat  is  now  taken  at  Hconderoga,  making  4ay  trips  only,  toaviog  Plattiburgli  iu 
the  BionuDg  and  retumioK  in  the  afternoon 


12  The  Adirondacks. 

■nAce  it  to  say,  that  nature  was  very  lavish  in  the  bestowml 
of  longitude,  although  not  noticeably  so  in  regard  to  latitude, 
giving  also  a  disposition  to  dare,  and  a  physical  develop- 
ment capable  of  enduring  a  vast  amount  of  arduous  rest. 
Going — the  dainty  professor  and  ease-loving  writer,  enthu- 
siastic sportsman,  with  neither  gun,  rod,  umbrella  or  other 
instrument  of  death,  armed  only  with  sketch  and  note-book, 
ind  hearts  to  drink  in  the  glories  of  the  great  wild  woods 
—  to  the  mountains  for  health  and  strength  to  frames  not 
over  strong. 

We  found  ourselves  on  board  the  "  Vermont,"  the  largest 
of  the  Champlain  steamers;  and  as  it  swung  out  into  the 
channel,  went  out  forward,  up  odd  little  pieces  of  stairway 
and  canvass  side  hills  ;  ducked  under  and  climbed  over  iron 
rods  and  groped  along  in  the  darkness  on  the  hurricane  deck 
to  the  pilot-house. 

As  we  entered,  our  eyes  becoming  accustomed  to  the  dark- 
ness, made  out  the  form  of  Rockwell,  the  chief  pilot,  with 
two  assistants,  wrestling  with  the  many-spoked  wheel,  which 
throbbed  and  trembled  as  they  forced  it  over  to  one  side 
while  the  lights  ahead  seemed  to  swing  swiftly  past  as  we 
«wept  around  a  sharp  bend  in  the  channel. 

A  quick,  low  word  of  command,  and  the  chain  rattled  and 
the  wheel  spun  around  like  lightning  as  they  jumped  away 
from  it. 

"Now,"  said  the  pilot. 

Six  hands  pattered  on  the  polished  spokes,  and  the  ait 
seemed  full  of  clawing,  jumping  shadows. 

"Over  with  her." 

The  wheel  creaked  and  snapped  with  the  strain  brought  to 
bear  on  it ;  the  lights  away  out  ahead,  that  had  passed  acrost 
to  the  right,  now  raced  wildly  back  to  the  left,  and  we  circled 
around  in  the  darkness,  out  of  which,  into  the  circle  of  light 
that  surrounded  us,  came  reedy  shores  and  low  lines  of 
bushes,  seeming  almost  to  brush  against  us  as  we  passed. 

"Steady  now.     Good  evening,  gentlemen." 

The  last  half  of  the  sentence,  while  it  was  friendly,  was  evi- 
dently intended  as  a  sort  of  reconnoissance.  It  had  inquiry 
in  it,  and  said  plainly,  "  I  want  to  hear  the  sound  of  youi 
voice." 


The  Pilot.  13 

.  We  said,  "  Good  evening." 

•*  Up  a  little  —  steady  —  let  her  run  —  Oh,  yes;  I  didn't 
recognize  your  voice  —  hard  over  that  light's  out  again  — 
you  are  a  little  hoarse ;   ought  to  take  something  for  that." 

"  We  were  ;  a  trip  to  the  mountains  ;  "  and  he  said  it  was 
an  excellent  plan  — ]et  her  chaw ;  the  reaction  will  clear  her 
— -wished  he  could  — luff  a  point  —  among  the  grand  things 
—  said  she  was  light  aft,  and  clawed  to  starboard ;  asked  if 
we  could  fully  indorse  Tyndall's  theory  of  nebular  hegira ; 
thought  the  Greek  slave  a  perfect  figure ;  said  she  sucked 
mud  through  here,  sometimes,  and  they  had  to  be  careful 
of  her  flues ;  wanted  to  know  if  we  had  given  the  evolement 
of  solar  faculae  much  thought ;  descended  with  Darwin  to 
our  remote  progenitors ;  gyrated  among  the  wheeHng  con- 
stellation ;  floated  through  eternity ;  touched  on  the  crea- 
tion ;  paddled  around  with  Noah  ;  got  lost  with  the  children 
of  Israel ;  skittered  along  down  through  the  dark  ages ;  said 
it  wasn't  going  to  rain,  which  suggested  Sodom  and  Gomor- 
rah ;  admired  Joan  of  Arc  —  said  she  carried  an  awful  head 
of  steam,. but  her  boilers  were  good;  wanted  our  opinion  as 
to  the  probable  origin  of  creative  energy  and  of  the  cohesive 
materialism  of  latent  force.  Shades  of  Egypt !  the  professor 
wilted,  and  we  had  to  admit  that  Moses  himself  couldn't 
have  taken  us  out  of  the  scientific  wilderness,  and  Rockwell 
thought  Moses  wasn't  much  of  a  pilot  anyway. 

Thus  he  mixes  art,  science  and  physics  while  demonstrat- 
ing perfection  in  navigation  ;  peering  out  into  the  darkness, 
seeming  to  feel  rather  than  see  the  channel ;  now  circling 
around  a  lamp  hung  out  as  a  guide,  then  away  toward  others 
that  seem  to  pass  and  repass  each  other,  as  we  sway  to  and 
fro,  where  in  places  a  deviation  the  width  of  the  boat  to  the 
right  or  left  would  bring  it  on  the  muddy  banks ;  at  times 
seeming  to  hang  out  over  the  reeds,  anon  waking  a  whole 
swarm  of  hissing,  chuckling  echoes  as  we  run  close  under  a 
rocky  wall ;  then  onward,  into  broader  strips  of  water,  under 
the  frowning  promontory  of  Ticonderoga;  then  y*&  •went 
below. 


CHAPTER  III. 
Lake  Champlain. 

HE  first  white  sporting  man  that  ever  visited 
the  Adirondacks  was  Samuel  de  Champlain,  a 
Frenchman,  who,  in  1609,  joined  a  company  of 
native  tourists  on  a  gunning  expedition  to  the 
southern  borders  of  the  future  State  park, 
where  he  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Iroquois  and 
succeeded  in  bagging  a  satisfactory'  number. 
Samuel,  besides  being  an  enthusiastic  sports- 
man, was  of  a  vivacious,  happy  disposition,  as 
witness  his  felicitous  description  of  the  mannei 
in  which  he,  at  the  first  shot,  brought  down 
three  out  of  four  Aborigines,  who  broke  cover, 
then  pursued  and  killed  some  others;  he 
should,  however,  receive  no  credit  as  a  marksman,  for  he 
used  a  beastly  arm  called  an  "arquebus," a  remote  progeni- 
tor of  the  terrible  blunderbuss  —  a  shot-gun,  which  same,  1 
think,  all  will  agree  is  beneath  the  dignity  of  a  true  sports- 
man to  point  toward  such  game.  After  this  adventure, 
which  happened  the  same  year  that  Hendrick  Hudson  sailed 
up  the  river  that  now  bears  his  name,  and  eleven  years 
before  the  original  pilgrims  landed  on  Plymouth  rock,  he 
returned  home  and  wrote  an  interesting  account  of  the 
affair,  calling  the  sheet  of  water  explored  after  himself — Lake 
Champlain.  Just  two  centuries  after  his  passage  in  a  canoe, 
the  first  steamboat  was  launched  on  the  lake.  When  became, 
the  Indians  called  it  Cani  adere  quaranU,  spelled  in  various 
ways,  and  said  by  learned  authorities  who  copy  it  from  some 
one  else,  to  mean  "the  lake  that  is  the  gate  of  the  country." 
By  the  early  French  who  did  not  choose  to  recognize  Cham- 
plain's  right  to  the  name,  it  was  known  as  Mere  Us  Iroquois,  01 
"Iracosia."  A  book  published  in  1659  speaks  of  it  as  "the 
lake  of  Troquois,  which,  together  with  a  river  of  the  s'.zm 


The  Adirondacks. 

name,  running  into  the  river  of  Canada,  is  sixty  or  seventy 
leagues  in  length.  In  the  lake  are  four  fair  islands,  which  arc 
low  and  full  of  goodly  woods  and  meadows,  having  store  of 
game  for  hunting.  Stagges,  Fallow  Dear,  Elks,  Roe  Bucks. 
Beavers,  and  other  sorts  of  beasts."  In  shape  it  is  very  like 
a  long,  slim  radish,  with  Whitehall  at  the  little  end ;  then 
comes  the  long  root  and  outbranching  river  fibers.  At  Bur- 
lington, quite  a  respectable  radish,  then  blotches  of  rock  and 
island,  and,  beyond  that,  the  leaves  spreading  out  on  either 
side  and  toward  the  North. 

On  the  east  is  Vermont,  sweeping  away  from  the  lake  in  a 
broad,  cultivated  plain,  then  gradually  ascending  to  the  ridgei 
of  the  Green  mountains;  along  the  southern  and  central  por- 
tion of  the  lake,  the  rocky  western  shores  step  down  to  the 
water's  edge  and  backward,  rising  up  peak  on  peak  the  high- 
est, misty  with  distance  or  hidden  by  the  clouds  that  gatnei 
around  ;  then  wild,  broken  and  grand,  the  Adirondack  moun- 
tains. Here  and  there  are  little  bits  of  cultivated  land  and 
breaks  in  the  mountain-gateways  to  the  wilderness,  then  as 
you  near  Burlington,  they  fall  away  back  into  the  interior,  and 
a  level,  well-cultivated  country  presents  itsel£ 

According  to  the  United  States  coast  survey,  the  distance 
from  Whitehall  to  Fort  Montgomery  is  107^  miles;  its 
greatest  width  across,  from  the  outlet  of  Ausable  river,  12^ 
miles,  and  greatest  depth  (at  a  point  i|  miles  south-east  of 
Essex  landing)  399  feet.  Measuring  down  into  Missisquoi 
bay,  on  the  east  side,  extending  into  Canada,  and  separated 
from  the  outlet  by  Alburgh  Tongue,  the  extreme  length  of 
the  lake  maybe  found  at  about  118  miles.  Its  elevation 
above  tide  is  99  feet. 

It  contains  a  number  of  beautiful  islands,  principally  near 
the  north  end,  the  two  largest  known  respectively  as  North 
and  South  Hero,  and  collectively  as  Grand  Isle,  a  county  of 
Vermont. 

The  New  York.  &  Canada  R.  R.,  extending  along  the 
west  shore  of  the  lake,  is  the  missing  link  in  the  air  line 
chain  between   New  York   and  Montreal,  supplied  by  the 


l»J 


1^%^ 


I      6 


i? 


Whitehall.  17 

Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company,  In  1875,  and  in  con- 
nection with  the  Rensselaer  &  Saratoga  Railroad  and 
Hudson  River  at  the  south,  and  a  section  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  from  the  Canada  line  north,  is  the  main  artery  of 
travel  between  the  two  great  cities.  At  various  points,  rail 
or  stage  routes  diverge,  leading  to  the  central  portions  of  the 
wilderness. 

Whitehall  is  at  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain;  219  miles 
north  of  New  York,  78  from  Albany.  As  we  break  through 
the  ledges  and  approach  from  the  south,  the  valley  spreads 
out  toward  the  east  in  a  fertile  plain ;  at  the  right,  toward  the 
north,  is  quite  a  mountain,  girded  with  outcropping  ledges 
that  run  up  from  the  east  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty  degrees, 
and  are  broken  off  precipitously  on  the  west ;  all  along  this 
front,  houses  cling  one  above  another  like  rows  of  martins* 
boxes,  and  wooden  stairways  run  zigzag  up  the  sides,  which, 
if  bought  by  the  acre,  would  bring  the  most  measured  per- 
pendicularly. Climbing  the  stairway  we  look  down  on  the 
business  portion  of  the  village,  close,  compact  and  city-like 
below  and  thinning  out  gradually  up  the  hill  on  the  west. 
Going  still  higher,  a  pathway  is  found  leading  to  the  summit 
which  is  comparatively  clear  and  affords  a  wonderfully  fine 
mountain  view  for  a  little  exertion. 

Whitehall  was  originally  called  Skeenesborough,  after  Col 
Philip  Skeene,  who  accompanied  Abercrombie  in  1758 ;  wa« 
wounded  in  his  attack  on  Ticonderoga  and,  after  Amherst's 
victorious  advance  in  the  following  year,  was  appointed  com- 
mandant at  Crown  Point,  at  which  time  he  projected  the  set- 
tlement In  1765,  he  obtained  a  grant  of  the  township  and, 
in  1770,  took  up  his  residence  here.  On  the  breaking  out  ot 
the  Revolution  he  took  sides  with  the  Royalists,  accompanied 
Burgoyne  in  his  expedition  against  Ticonderoga  and  was 
captured  with  him  at  Saratoga ;  his  property  was  confiscated 
by  act  of  Legislature  in  1779. 

Wood  Creek,  that  fi-om  its  very  head,  has  flown  sleepily 
along,  seems  to  have  awakened  suddenly  and  with  a  quick 
start,  a  joyous  little  run,  a  little  foam  and  a  little  racket 
plunges  over  the  rocks,  and  dies  out  in  the  muddy  Iak«  mt 


1 8  The  Adirondacks. 

our  feet.  Close  to  the  falls  the  canal  boats  and  small  steam- 
ere  come,  and  line  the  banks  of  the  bayou-like  lake  that  leads 
away  to  the  north  through  what  seems  a  basin  scooped  out 
of  the  mountains,  its  marshy  bed  filled  here  and  there  with 
pieces  of  "  made "  land  on  which  are  steam  mills,  and  long 
piles  of  lumber,  representing  the  principal  business  of  the 
place. 

At  Whitehall,  the  train  divides, — a  part  going  east  and  north 
via  Castleton  and  Rutland,  the  remainder  north,  down  along 
the  principal  street,  through  the  tunnel,  out  at  the  north  edge 
of  the  village  to  the  lumber  district,  and  across  the  marsh- 
bottomed  basin  toward  a  notch  cut  out  of  its  farther  rim. 

Just  before  entering  the  rock-cut  alluded  to,  we  see  on  the 
cast  a  short  double  crook,  in  the  narrow  channel,  known  as 
the  Fiddler's  Elbow,  where  the  large  steamers  were  com- 
pelled to  send  a  line  ashore  and  "  warp  "  round  into  a  proper 
position  to  proceed;  here,  under  water,  are  the  hulks  of  some 
of  the  vessels  engaged  in  the  battle  of  Plattsburgh,  in  1814. 
On  the  high  point  of  rocks  just  over  and  slightly  to  the  north 
of  the  Elbow  is  Fort  Putnam,  where  the  old  colonial  general, 
— Israel — ^lay  in  ambush,  waiting  for  the  French  and  Indians 
under  the  command  of  Marin. 

The  steamboat  dock,  formerly  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
road,  with  its  half-demolished  sheds  and  old  elevator,  is,  par- 
adoxically speaking,  left  on  the  right  as  the  train  skims  over 
the  surface  of  the  marsh  on  the  long  trestle,  straight  as  the 
arrow  flies,  for  over  a  mile,  and  over  the  draw  at  the  outlet 
of  South  bay,  along  which  Dieskau  led  his  men  to  attack  1! 
Fort  Edward,  failing  in  which  they  turned  toward  Lake 
George  and  fell  in  with  Col.  Williams  on  that  memorable 
8th  of  September,  1755.  1 

Winding   in   and   out  we   continue   along  the  west  shore  I 
breaking  through  rocky  points  and  cuts,  where  the  clay  has 
been  sliced  down  and  removed  like  huge  chunks  of  cheese,  I 
revealing  on  their  face  horizontal  strata  that  must  at  some  ™ 
time  have  been  the  bed  of  the  lake.     On  the  east,  at  inter- 
vals, are  the  odd,  little  light  houses  and  posts  where  lanterns 
were  hung  to  mark  the  tortuous  channel.     Low  reedy  islands 


TiCONDEROGA.  I9 

and  points  float  outward  from  the  shores,  sluC  the  grand, 
rocky  gateways  opening  up  as  we  advance,  revea3  vistas  of 
wondrous  beauty,  strips  of  far-reaching  water,  and  the  blue 
of  distant  mountain  peaks.  Between  the  solid  points  we 
cross  on  trestle  work  or  made  land,  and  which  same  openings 
have  proved  a  delusion  and  a  snare  to  the  unfortunate  con 
tractor  doomed  to  wrestle  with  them. 

Twenty-two  miles  from  Whitehall,  our  rope  of  travel  is 
divided  in  three  strands,  the  one  at  the  left  branching  off 
around  Mount  Defiance  to  the  foot  of  Lake  George,  the  mid- 
dle continuing  on  by  rail  along  the  west  shore,  and  the  remain- 
ing one  proceeding  in  nearly  the  same  direction  by  steamboat, 
touching  at  the  principal  points  by  the  way.* 

Fort  Ticonderoga  is  24  miles  from  Whitehall  on  a  bold 
promontory  between  the  waters  of  Lake  Champkin  and  the 
outlet  of  Lake  George. 

Here  were  enacted  the  principal  events  in  the  play  of  the 
.ako ;  here  savage  tribes  contended  for  the  country  on  either 
nand ;  here  three  great  nations  struggled  for  the  prize  ol  a 
continent,  and  precious  blood  flowed  like  water  for  this,  the 
key  to  the  "gate  of  the  country,"  by  its  position  elected  to 
become  historic  ground ;  as  such,  let  us  glance  briefly  in 
passing. 

Claimed  by  the  Hurons  and  Algonquins  on  the  north,  and 
the  Five  Nations,  on  the  south,  Lake  Champlain  was  perma« 
nently  occupied  by  neither,  but  the  gateway  between  two 
sections  that  were  continually  at  war  with  each  other,  the 
bloody  middle  ground  over  which  each  party  in  its  turn  swept 
carrying  ruin  in  its  path.  This  had  driven  all  who  would 
have  occupied  it  beyond  the  mountains,  and  the  lovely  shores 
remained  in  unbroken  solitude.  Thus  Champlain  found  it 
when,  in  July,  1609,  he  sailed  south  with  the  Indians  from 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  make  war  upon  their  southern  enemies, 
and  "encountered  a  war  pariy  of  the  Iroquois  on  the  29th  of 
the  month,  about  ten  o'clock  v^t  night,  at  the  point  of  a  cape 
irhich  puts  out  into  the  lake  ou  the  west  side."  They  each 
retired  until  the  morning,  when  a  battle  ensued    Champlair 


20  IHB  ADIRONDACKS. 

was  kept  out  of  sight  until  they  marched  to  the  attack.  Ht 
says:  "Ours  commenced,  calling  me  in  a  loud  voice,  and, 
making  way  for  me,  opened  in  two  and  placed  me  at  theii 
head,  marching  about  twenty  paces  in  advance  until  I  was 
within  thirty  paces  of  the  enemy." 

••  The  moment  they  saw  me  they  halted,  gazing  at  me  and 
I  at  them.  When  I  saw  them  preparing  to  shoot  at  us,  1 
raised  my  arquebus,  and  aiming  directly  at  one  of  the  three 
chiefs,  two  of  them  fell  to  the  ground  by  this  shot,  and  one  ol 
their  companions  received  a  wound,  of  which  he  died  after- 
ward. I  had  put  four  balls  in  my  arquebus.  Ours,  in  witness- 
ing a  shot  so  favorable  to  them,  set  up  such  tremendous 
shouts  that  thunder  could  not  have  been  heard  ;  and  yet  there 
was  no  lack  of  arrows  on  one  side  and  the  other.  The  Iro- 
quois were  greatly  astonished,  seeing  two  men  killed  so 
instantaneously,  notwithstanding  they  were  provided  with 
arrow-proof  armor,  woven  of  cotton-thread  and  wood.  ♦  ♦  • 
They  lost  courage,  took  to  flight,  and  abandoned  the  field  and 
their  fort,  hiding  themselves  in  the  depths  of  the  forests, 
whither  pursuing  them  I  killed  some  others.  ♦  ♦  ♦  Th« 
place  where  the  battle  was  fought  is  43  degrees  some  minutes 
latitude,  and  I  named  it  Lake  Champlain."*  Ticonderoga  is 
i3^  degrees  north  latitude  and  probably  the  cape  referred  to 
•which  puts  out  into  the  lake  on  the  west  side." 

The  French  claimed  the  country  by  virtue  of  Champlain't 
discovery,  and  in  1731,  while  at  peace  with  Great  Britain,  the^f 
advanced  to  Crown  Point  and  erected  Fort  St  Frederick. 

The  English  claimed  this  territory  by  right  of  purchase  and 
treaty  with  the  Five  Nations,  and  feeling  that  something 
must  be  done  to  prevent  further  encroachments  of  the  French 
on  British  soil.  General  Johnson  was  sent,  in  1755,  to  drive 
them  away,  going  by  way  of  Lake  George,  where  he  halted 
for  a  few  days,  when  Baron  Dieskau  made  a  dash  around 
French  mountain,  defeated  Col.  Williams'  party  and  attacked 
the  main  army,  in  which  he  was  defeated.  He  then  returned 
to  Ticonderoga  and  began  the  erection  of  a  fort  which  he 
cal»»d  "  CarilUm:* 

*  Documentary  History  of  New  York. 

+  Dr.  G.  F.  Bixby,  whcse  refearches  among  historical  matters  relatirg  to  the 
Champlain  Vallty  lias  made  him  an  authority,  in  a  paper  read  before  the  N.  Y. 
State  Hi&lorical  Society  in  1839,  brought  evidence  to  show  that  "  the  cape  "  re- 
ferred to  by  Champlain  is  the  one  on  which  Crown  Point  ruins  now  stand.  The 
evidence  was  accepted  by  the  Society  as  congiusive. 


TiCONDEROGA.  2 1 

in  1757,  it  was  occupied  by  Montcalm,  who  marched  thence 
to  the  capture  of  Fort  William  Henry. 

In  1758,  Abercrombie  made  his  unsuccessful  attack  on  the 
Did  French  lines,  which  resulted  in  his  total  defeat,  with  a 
loss  of  nearly  2,000  killed  and  wounded. 

The  following  year  Amherst  entrenched  before  the  lines, 
and  the  French,  feeling  that  they  could  not  successfully  resist 
him,  abandoned  and  set  fire  to  the  works,  which  the  English 
took  possession  of  in  the  morning.  They  then  advanced  on 
Fort  St.  Frederick,  the  French  retreating  down  the  lake ;  their 
hold  on  Champlain  gone  forever. 

Amherst  repaired  and  enlarged  the  works  at  Ticonderoga 
tad  Crown  Point,  on  a  scale  of  great  magnificence,  but  never 
a  shot  from  the  frowning  embrasures  was  directed  against  an 
approaching  foe.  Peace  between  the  nations  soon  followed 
and  the  forts  were  allowed  to  fall  into  a  state  of  ill  repair  and 
were  poorly  garrisoned  when  the  revolution  broke  out. 
Crown  Point  had  only  a  sergeant  and  12  men  and  Ticon- 
deroga 50  men  all  told,  when  in  the  gray  of  the  morn- 
ing of  the  loth  of  May,  1775,  Ethan  Allen  and  83  of  his 
"Green  Mountain  boys,"  stole  in  through  the  wicket  gate 
and  demanded  its  surrender  '*  in  the  name  of  the  Great 
Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress."  Crown  Point  was 
on  the  same  day  taken  possession  of  by  a  party  of  Allen's 
men  under  Seth  Warner,  and  soon  after  a  sloop  of  war  was 
captured  by  Benedict  Arnold,  by  which  the  colonists  gained 
command  of  the  lake. 

The  following  year  Arnold,  in  command  of  a  small  flotilla, 
was  defeated  near  the  Four  Brothers'  islands  by  General  Carl- 
ton, who  advanced  as  far  south  as  Crown  Point,  then  retired 
into  Canada. 

In  1777  there  came  sweeping  from  the  north  the  conceited, 
the  pompous,  the  brilliant  Burgoyne  with  7,500  men  and  laid 
siege  to  Ticonderoga.  St.  Clair,  then  in  command  had  barely 
sufficient  troops  to  man  the  principal  works,  and  when  the 
English  took  possession  of  Mount  Defiance,  from  which  they 
could  drop  shot  right  over  into  the  fort,  he  decided  to  aban- 
don it  and  did  so  on  the  night  of  July  4th ;  all  the  stores  that 
could  be  taken  were  removed,  guns  were  spiked  and  at  mid- 


22 


The  Adirondacks. 


night  a  dusky  throng  moved  away  across  the  chain  bridge 
Unfortunately  for  the  Americans,  a  house  on  Mount  Inde- 
pendence was  set  on  fire  and  the  light  revealed  the  fugitive 
army  to  the  watchful  enemy,  who  immediately  pursued.  The 
greater  part  retreated  toward  Castleton  and  were  followed,  en- 
gaged and  beaten ;  the  English,  however,  suffered  terribly,  it 
is  said,  losing  ten  to  one  of  the  Yankees.  The  rest  moving 
up  the  lake  toward  Whitehall  were  pursued  by  the  British 
who  broke  through  the  chain  bridge  and  reaching  the  head 
of  the  lake  almost  as  soon  as  they,  captured  most  of  the 
stores  and  ammunition,  the  men  retreating  to  Fort  Ann  ;  after 
this  Burgoyne  moved  south  to  Saratoga,  where  his  march  ol 
triumph  was  changed  to  one  of  defeat,  for  he  found  the 
Gates  too  strong  for  him  to  pass. 

After*' Saratoga  " the  British  retired  into  Canada,  but  in  1780 
the  old  fort  was  again  occupied  by  the  troops  under  General 
Haldiman,  at  which  time  occurred  those  bloodless  battles  ol 
diplomacy,  where  Allen  plotted  treason  with  such  con- 
summate sagacity,  that  his  country's  enemies  rested  on  their 
arms  and  •'  peace  reigned  throughout  her  borders." 

Then  came  another  enemy,  silent,  but  resistless  as  the 
march  of  time.  Rain  and  sunshine,  frosts  to  rack  and  tem> 
pests  to  beat  upon  the  old  walls,  until  they  totter  and  fall 
away,  disappearing,  one  by  one,  and  pointing  to  the  time 
when  naught  shall  remain  but  the  name  it  bears,  and  that 
uncertain  in  the  mists  of  the  past. 

"  TicoNDEROGA  "  ♦  —  the  generally  accepted  extract  and 
boiled  down  result  of  over  a  dozen  different  Indian  names, 
all,  however,  having  something  the  same  sound — as  Tiendi* 
roga,  Cheonderoga  —  meant  to  them  the  coming  together ^  or 
meeting  of  waters,i  instead  of  the  generally  accepted  version 
of  "  Sounding  waters." 

Carillon,  the  name  given  it  by  the  French,  meaning  music, 
racket,  a  chime,  may  have  been  suggested  by  the  "  Sounding 
waters  "  near  by. 

The  old  battery  on  the  bluff,  at  the  steamboat  landing,  it 


♦  C«ldM,  i9«».   FowaaO,  trr*» 


Crown   Point.  23 

said  to  have  been  the  original  Carillon.  Back  on  the  higher 
ground  are  the  barrack  walls,  trenches,  two  bastions,  and  the 
best  preserved  portion  of  the  ruins  —  a  bomb-proof  room, 
which  some  people  say  was  the  magazine,  while  other  author- 
ities contend  that  it  was  the  humble  but  equally  necessary 
bakery.  On  the  east,  by  the  side  of  the  road,  is  the  old  fort 
well.  Leading  from  the  south-east  corner  of  the  parade  to- 
ward this,  is  the  covered  way,  through  which  Ethan  Allen 
went  in  the  gray  of  the  morning,  in  1775.  On  the  west  is 
Mount  Defiance.  Between  it  and  the  fort  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George  enters  Lake  Champlain.  Opposite  the  point  at  the 
south-east,  the  lake  is  narrowed  down  by  the  near  approach 
of  Mount  Independence,  which  was  also  fortified  while  St. 
Clair  held  command.  Between  the  two  points  ran  the  chain 
or  floating  bridge. 

The  lake  here  turns  toward  the'north,  thus  washing  three 
sides  of  the  promontory.  Among  the  oaks,  just  west  of  the 
tunnel,  is  the  old  French  lines,  reaching  over  the  ridge  and 
nearly  across  the  peninsula.  The  trenches  and  embankments 
are  clearly  defined,  as  are  also  the  outlines  of  several  re- 
doubts, cast  up  at  about  the  same  date.  Across  the  locust- 
covered  flat,  just  north  of  the  ruins,  from  a  point  near  the 
drawbridge,  lay  Ethan  Allen's- route  in  1775;  and  on  the 
plain,  near  Addison  Junction,  according  to  the  best  author- 
ities, occurred  the  encounter  between  Champlain's  party  and 
the  Iroquois. 

Crown  Point  is  n  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga.  Here, 
on  the  shore,  are  the  furnaces  of  the 
Crown  Point  Iron  Company,  and  the  ter- 
minus of  a  narrow-gauge  railway,  which 
extends  back  13  miles  to  iron  mines  at 
Hammondville,  1,300  feet  above  the  lake. 
Thence,  by  stage,  to  Schroon  Lake. 


24 


The  Adirondacks. 


Crown  Point  Ruins  are  about  six  miles  north  of  Crown 
Point  landing.  The  lake  is  here  narrowed  down  by  the  land 
extending  from  the  west  on  which  the  ruins  stand,  its  point 
marked  by  a  stone  light-house,  Chimney  Point  approaches 
from  the  east  side.  Beyond  the  light-house,  at  the  narrowest 
place  in  the  passage,  are  the  scarcely  visible  remains  of  Fort 
St.  Frederick,  built  by  the  French  in  1731.  This  point  be- 
came a  noted  trading  post,  where  the  savages  came  to  ex- 
change peltry  for  civilized  fire-water  and  other  necessaries. 
Under  the  protecting  guns  of  the  old  fort  it  developed  into  a 
village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  the  remains  of  lines  of  cellars  and 
flagged  walks,  extending  back  toward  the  west,  still  showing 
signs  of  its  old-time  prosperity. 

The  ruins  of  Crown  Point  proper  are  seen  farther  over  at 
the  west,  as  the  boat  passes  through  the  narrow  opening  to 
the  broad  lake.  It  was  commenced  by  Amherst  in  1759,  and 
completed  at  an  expense  of  over  ten  million  dollars.  The 
extensive  earth-works,  and  the  walls  of  the  barracks,  still  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation,  indicate  the  strength  and  extent  of 
the  fortification,  from  which,  however,  no  gun  was  ever  fired 
at  an  approaching  foe.  Dr.  Bixby  designates  the  shore  of  the 
peninsula  west  of  the  ruins  as  the  probable  site  of  Champlain's 
battle  with  the  Iroquois  in  1609,  given  in  the  explorer's  own 
words  on  page  14. 

Fort  Frederick  (landing)  is  just  north  of  the  light-house. 
A  board  walk  extends  from  the  dock  back  to  the  ruins.  Re- 
freshment rooms,  a  public  pavilion,  etc.,  have  been  built  here 
by  the  Champlain  Transportation  Company,  for  accomodation 
and  entertainment  of  excursion  parties  that  may  land  here. 

Port  Henry,  two  miles  north-west  of  Crown  Point  Ruins 
is  exceedingly  picturesque, 
with  a  number  of  elegant 
private  residences,  occu- 
pied by  the  iron  magnates 
of  that  section. 

The  Lake  Champlain  and  Moriah  R.  R.  is  seven  miles 
^ng,  extending  from  Port  Henry  to  the  ore  beds  at  Alineville, 


Westport. 


25 


1,300  feet  above.  The  grade  at  one  point  is  256 J^  feet  to  the 
mile.  The  average  is  211  feet.  It  contains  three  *' Y's," 
where  the  nature  of  the  ascent  renders  a  curve  impracticable. 
Mineville  is  the  centre  of  the  mining  operations  of  the  region, 
and  is  a  wonderful  revelation  to  the  novice  in  mining  scenes. 
The  Chever  Ore  Bed  is  two  miles  north  of  Port  Henry,  near 
the  lake  shore. 

The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  of  Albany  has  a  small  camp  on  Cole's 
Island  about  a  mile  south  of  the  Barber  Point  Light  House — 
the  summer  rendezvous  of  a  large  number  of  Association  men 
and  boys,  who  "rough  it"  in  the  most  approved  style  under 
the  general  supervision  of  Frank  W.  Ober,  the  genial  General 
Secretary,  and  the  particular  care  of  "  Dug  "  Dunning,  guide 
and  hunter.  Their  accommodations  consist  of  an  open  camp 
where  they  sleep  at  night,  plentifully  supplied  with  blankets, 
with  other  accessories  to  make  them  comfortable  in  this  out-of 
door  life.  Three  general  regulations  apply :  Implicit  obedi 
ence  to  leader  and  rules,  attendance  at  Bible  study,  quiet  at 
TOP.  M.  The  days  are  spent  in  fishing  and  boating  excursions 
to  various  parts  of  the  lake.  They  are  a  jolly  lot,  and  wel 
come  visitors  with  right  good  will. 

Westport  is  a  pretty  little  village,  on  a  deep  bay,  setting 
into  the  western 
shore,  fifty  miles 
north  of  Whitehall. 
It  is  the  natural 
gateway  into  the 
mountains,  via  Eliz- 
abethtown  and 
Keene  Valley  (see  page  149),  and  possesses  attractions  of  its 
own  that  recommend  it  strongly  to  the  summer  visitor. 

The  Pleasant  View  House,  at  the  depot,  affords  a  con- 
venient stopping  place  for  parties  arriving  by  night  trains. 
Capacity  30.     Rates  about  $2  per  day. 

The  Gibb's  House,  formerly  the  Richard's  House,  is  now 
under  the  management  of  J.  Nelson  Gibbs.     It  is  situated  in 


\tN«>, 


AM«  S\ 


-^^ 


rs*-^ 


;^^^ 


0<^ 


M 


Westport.  27 

the  northern  part  of  the  village  overlooking  the  lake,-and  af- 
fords comfortable  accommodations  at  a  moderate  price. 

The  Westport  Inn  stands  on  the  brow  of  an  abrupt  emi- 
nence a  hundred  feet  above  the  lakes,  and  overlooks  a  tennis 
lawn  shaded  by  fine  elms,  the  picturesque  steamboat  landing, 
the  great  sweeping  amphitheatre  of  hillsides  leading  away  to 
right  and  left,  the  circling  shore  of  the  bay  and  the  beautiful 
chain  of  the  Green  Mountains  across  in  Vermont.  The  house 
is  very  attractive.  It  has  broad  piazzas,  is  neat  and  thoroughly 
well  furnished,  has  pleasant  parlors  and  a  fine  airy  dining-room, 
with  a  large  open  fireplace.  The  table  is  spoken  of  in  the 
highest  terms  of  praise,  and  the  service  most  efficient.  There 
are  bath  rooms,  a  pure  water  supply  and  perfect  drainage. 
During  the  coming  season  water  will  be  introduced  from  a 
wonderful  mountain  spring  500  feet  above  the  lake.  There 
is  a  livery  stable  under  the  patronage  of  the  house,  and  the 
picturesque  drives  offer  great  variety  with  ever-varying  change 
of  scene.  The  situation  also  offers  the  usual  boating  and 
fishing  facilities,  with  a  small  steamer  suitable  for  excursions. 
Bathing  places  with  good  bottom  and  convenient  bath  houses 
are  there ;  a  circulating  library.  Post  Oflfice  and  telegraph  of- 
fice are  near  by.  There  are  accommodations  in  the  "  Inn,' 
the  "Annex"  and  the  three  cottages  for  150  guests.  It  con- 
tinues under  the  skillful  management  of  Mrs.  O.  C.  Daniell, 
assisted  by  Mrs.  H.  C.  Lyon.  Rates,  $3.00  per  day.  By  the 
week  they  vary  from  $10.00  to  $21,00. 

Steamer  Chateaugay,  Capt.  Baldwin,  leaves  Westport  at 
7  A.  M.  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  and  touching  at  Cedar  Beach, 
Essex,  Burlington,  Port  Kent,  Bluff  Point,  Plaltsburgh,  Gor- 
don's and  Adams',  reaches  North  Hero  at  12:20;  returning, 
touches  as  above,  and  arrives  at  Westport  6:45. 

This  boat  belongs  to  the  C.  T.  Co.,  and  was  launched  at 
Shelburn  Harbor  November  1,  1887.  It  is  203  feet  long, 
and  59  feet  wide  over  all.  Water  line,  195  feet;  beam,  30 
feet.  The  hull  is  of  rolled  steel  plates,  made  from  Chateau- 
gay  ore,  with  a  wrought  iron  frame,  braced  in  the  most  sub- 
stantial manner,  and  provided  with  water-tight  compartments. 


28  The  Adirondacks. 

The  engine  is  a  vertical  beam,  jet  condensing  engine,  44-inch     |! 
cylinder,  10  foot  stroke.     The  paddle-wheels  are  of  the  new 
*'  feathering  "  pattern,  23  feet  in  diameter.     The  boat  draws 
four  and  a  half  feet  of  water,  and  will  make  20  miles  an  hour. 

Steamer  Vermont,  Captain  Rushlow,  is  of  the  same  line, 
is  a  graceful  vessel,  designed  specially  for  pleasure  travel. 
This  boat  leaves  Plattsburgh  at  7  a.  m.,  touches  at  Bluff 
Point,  Port  Kent,  Burlington,  Westport,  Port  Henry,  Fort 
Frederick  and  Crown  Point,  and  reaches  Fort  Ticonderoga 
about  noon,  connecting  there  with  trains  for  the  south  and  for 
the  steamer  on  Lake  George,  returning  over  the  same  route 
reaches  Plattsburgh  about  7  p.  m.  Steamboat  and  railroad 
tickets  are  interchangeable  between  Ticonderoga  and  Platts- 
burgh. 

The  "  Water  Lily,"  a  small  steamer,  runs  from  Westport 
to  Vergennes  daily  on  arrival  of  steamer  Vermont  from  the 
south,  returning  in  the  morning  to  connect  with  the  south- 
bound boat.  The  Water  Lily  is  notable  among  steamboats 
as  having  a  lady  at  the  wheel,  in  the  person  of  Mrs.  Captain 
Daniels,  who  is  said  to  be  the  first  and  only  regularly  licensed 

lady  pilot  in  the  United  States. 

******* 

Calamity  Point  is  on  the  west,  about  two  miles  north  of 
Westport.  Here  the  steamer  Champlain  was  wrecked  in 
1875  while  running  north  on  her  regular  night  trip.  The  im- 
mediate cause  of  the  disaster  has  never  been  explained,  as 
the  night  was  no  more  than  ordinarily  dark,  but  since  that 
time,  day  or  night,  when  running,  the  pilot  houses  of  the  sis- 
ter boats  invariably  contain  two  competent  men.  Captain 
Rushlow  of  the  Vermont  was  then  in  command  of  the  Cham- 
plain,  and  it  was  due  to  his  cool  self-possession  that  no  panic 
ensued  to  lead  to  loss  of  life. 

Split  Rock  Mountain  extends  along  the  west  shore  ter- 
minating in  a  sharp  point  8  miles  north  of  Westport.  Barn 
Rock  (a  corruption  probably  of  Barren  Rock)  shows  the  up- 
turned edges  of  strata  lying  at  a  sharp  angle  with  the  surface 


Split  Rock.  29 

in  a  bold  point  enclosing  a  deep  harbor.  "  The  Palisades,"  a 
little  way  north,  are  grand  perpendicular  cliffs.  Rock  Harbor, 
a  mile  further  north,  shows  an  "  effort,"  where  Gotham's  ex- 
Boss  Tweed,  tried  his  hand  at  digging  ore.  Grog  Harbor — a 
charming  little  cove  despite   its  name — is   near   the  northern 


end  of  the  mountain. 


SPLIT  ROCK  FROM  THB  NORTH. 

1  Grand  View  Mt.,  Vt.;  2  Split  Rock  Light ;  3  Split  Rock  ;  4  Whalon's  Bay, 

Split  Rock  is  at  the  northern  termination  of  the  mountain 
bearing  the  same  name.  In  the  uncertain  records  of  old  In- 
dian treaties,  it  is  claimed  that  this  rock  marked  the  line  be- 
tween the  tribes  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  those  of  the  Mo- 
hawk Valley. 

Otter  Creek  enters  the  lake  from  the  east  something  over 
five  miles  north  of  Westport.  This  is  the  longest  river  in 
Vermont  and  is  navigable  to  Vergennes  whose  spires  may  be 
seen  some  distance  inland.  Fort  Cassin  stood  at  the  mouth 
of  Otter  Creek,  bits  of  the  works  are  still  visible.  Within  the 
creek  a  portion  of  the  American  squadron  was  fitted  out  in 
18 1 4,  which  under  Commodore  McDonough  defeated  the 
British  Commodore  Downie,  at  Plattsburgh,  in  September  of 
that  year. 

Vergennes  is  eight  miles  back  from  the  lake,  as  Otter 
Creek  runs,  although  in  an  air  line  but  little  more  than  half 
that  distance.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  New  England, 
dating  its  organization  back  to  1789.  It  is  also  the  smallest 
incorporated  city  in  the  country.  The  Stevens  House  has 
accommodations  for  about  loo  guests.  Board  88.00  to  $12.00 
per  week.     S.  S.  Gaines  proprietor. 

Essex  is  a  small  village  on  the  west  shore,  10  miles  north  of 
Westport.     The  Boquet  river  empties  into  the  lake  four  miles 


30  The  Adirondacks. 

north  of  Essex  landing.  It  is  navigable  for  about  a  mile.  It 
was  a  rendezvous  of  Burgoyne's  flotilla  in  the  advance  on  Ti- 
conderoga,  in  1777,  and  in  18 12  was  entered  by  British  gun- 
boats to  work  the  destruction  of  the  little  village  of  Wills- 
borough,  a  mile  inland. 

WiLLSBORouGH  PoiNT  is  the  northern  extremity  of  a  low 
peninsula  about  four  miles  long  by  one  wide,  separating  Wills- 
borough  Bay  from  the  main  lake. 

The  Willsborough  with  capacity  for  60  guests  stands  here. 
J.  Henry  Otis,  proprietor.  Rates  $3.00  per  day;  $12.00  to 
$18.00  per  week.  Open  June  to  October.  Railroad  station 
is  Willsborough,  five  miles  distant  at  the  south.  Fare  by 
house  carriage  75  cents. 

The  American  Canoe  Association  holds  its  annual  meet 
this  year  on  the  north  end  of  Willsborough  Point,  opening 
August  6th,  and  continuing  three  weeks.  It  is  an  Interna- 
tional organization  with  a  membership  of  something  over  a 
thousand,  composed  largely  of  literary  and  professional  men 
from  all  parts  of  North  America.  The  Association  is  bound 
by  a  code  of  rules  that  keeps  i  t  free  from 
what  may  be  termed  "  professionalism."  Its 
official  organs  are  '^  Forest  and  Stream  "  and 
"  Sail  and  Paddle'^  The  initiation  fee  is 
one  dollar,  annual  dues  one  dollar.  Waher 
U.  Lawson,  of  Boston,  is  Commodore,  and 
Ralph  F.  Brazer,  of  Lowell,  Mass.,  Secre- 
tary and  Treasurer. 
The  Association  is  divided  into  four  divisions,  Eastern, 
Northern,  Atlantic  and  Southern.  C.  V.  Winne,  of  the  D.  & 
H.  R.  R.  is  Vice-Commodore,  and  W.  Howard  Brown,  of  Al- 
bany, Purser  of  the  Central  Division,  in  whose  jurisdiction 
the  Meet  is  held  this  year.  The  A.  C.  A.  was  organized  at 
Lake  George  in  1880,  and  has  met  annually  since  that  time 
at  Lake  George  and  other  places.  There  are  a  number  of 
lady  members  of  the  Association  and  their  camp  is  always 
an    interesting  feature  of    the  Meet.     The    entire    camp  is 


Burlington.  31 

under  strict  police  surveillance.  Strangers  are  not  allowed 
on  the  grounds  except  under  certain  restrictions  and  on  regu- 
lar visitors'  day,  at  which  time  it  is  intended  that  some  of  the 
most  interesting  events  of  the  Meet  shall  transpire. 

The  Four  Brothers  are  near  the  middle  of  the  lake,  east  of 
Willsborough  Point.  Here  occured  the  running  engagement 
between  Benedict  Arnold  and  Captain  Pringle,  in  1776,  in 
which  the  English  were  victorious.  Juniper  Island  is  north- 
east of  the  Brothers,  with  high,  almost  vertical  walls,  sur- 
mounted by  a  lighthouse. 

After  leaving  Essex  Landing  the  boat  passes  out  into  the 
broadening  lake,  gradually  nearing  the  Vermont  side  in  the  ap- 
proach to  Burlington.  Back  inland  are  the  two  highest  peaks 
of  the  Green  Mountains — Mansfield,  4,360  feet  above  tide 
and  Camel's  Hump,  the  Leo?i  Couchant  of  the  French. 

Shelburn  Farm,  the  summer  place  of  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb, 
is  on  the  east  shore.  North  extends  Shelburne  peninsula 
terminating  in  Pottier's  Point. 

Shelburne  Harbor  is  east  of  Pottier's  Point.  Here  are  the 
shipyards  of  the  Champlain  Transportation  Company.  It  is 
worthy  of  note  that  but  one  year  after  Robert  Fulton's  steam- 
boat was  launched  on  the  Hudson  River  a  steamboat  was  built 
and  launched  at  Burlington.  It  could  run  five  miles  an  hour 
without  heating  the  shaft. 

Rock  Dundar  is  a  prominent  object,  as  we  near  Burlington; 
it  is  a  sharp  cone  about  20  feet  high,  believed  by  Winslow  C. 
Watson,  the  historian,  to  be  the  famous  "RockRegio"  so 
frequently  mentioned  in  colonial  records. 

Burlington  is  a  city  of  nearly  15,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  lumber  marts  in  the  country,  standing 
fourth  in  the  order  of  business.  The  firm  represents  a  capital 
of  $4,000,000.00.  One  hundred  and  fifty  million  feet  of  lum- 
ber are  sold  annually  from  this  market.  The  Champlain 
Transportation  Company  has  its  general  ofiice  here.  The 
Lake  Champlain  Yacht  Club  has  an  elegant  club  house  a  little 
way  north  of  the  steamboat  landing.  • 


52 


The  Adirondacks. 


Among  public  buildings  of  note  are  The  University  of 
Vermont,  the  Medical  College,  Billings  Library  Building, 
Vermont  Episcopal  Institute,  St.  Joseph's  College,  Park 
Gallery  of  Art,  Fletcher  Free  Library,  Mary  Fletcher  Hos- 
pital, and  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  building. 

On  the  high  land  back  of  the  city,  overlooking  Winooski 
Valley,  in  the  Green  Mountain  Cemetery,  lies  the  body  of 
Vermont's  famous  son,  Ethan  Allen.  A  monument  of  Barre 
granite,  50  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Allen, 
marks  the  spot. 

Hotels.  Hotel  Burhngton,  a  new  house,  capacity  100, 
rates,  $2.00  and  $2.50  per  day,  $10.50  to  $15.00  per  week, 
Delaney  &  Harrington,  proprietors.  The  Van  Ness  and 
American  Houses,  rates,  $3.00  to  $3.50  per  day.  L.  S.  Drew 
and  H.  N.  Clark,  managers. 

Port  Kent  is  10  miles  from  Burlington,  the  steamer 
running  almost  due  northwest  from  the  latter  point  and  veer- 
ing only  slightly  from  its  course  to  pass  around  Trembleau 
Point.     Below,  the  town  is  not    very   attractive;    but  above, 

along  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  are  several  very 
pleasant,  comfortable- 
looking  houses. 
Among  them  is  the 
old  home  of  Elkanah 
Watson,     whose     ac- 


Fifures  thswodilanc?  from  GatCKar 


count  of  travefs  in  1777  contains  the  best  record  we  have  of 
the  towns  and  villages  at  that  period.  The  house  may  be 
identified  by  the  tall  columns  along  its  front. 

Au  Sable  Chasm,  three  miles  distant,  is  reached  from  Port 
Kent  over  the  new  K.,  A.  C.  &L.  C.  R.  R.,  which  crosses  over 
just  below  Rainbow  Falls,  to  Au  Sable  Chasm  Station,  and 
continues  along  the  west  side  of  the  river  to  Keeseville,  for 
which  see  page  44. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Au  Sable  Chasm. 

U  SABLE  CHASM  is  the  Yosemite  in 
miniature.  The  Au  Sable  River,  coming 
out  from  the  mountains  of  the  south, 
through  the  valley  past  Keeseville,  breaks, 
after  many  a  rush  and  tumble,  over  the 
rocks  into  Au  Sable  Chasm,  in  the  beauti- 
ful Rainbow  Falls,  then  hurrying  downward 
through  devious  ways,  creeping  under 
towering  cliffs,  resting  in  dark  places  where 
the  sun  never  shines,  finally  emerges  from 
the  gloom  into  the  broad  willowy  way  to 
mingle  later,  after  many  twists  and  turns, 
with  the  quiet  waters  of  Lake  Champlain. 

It  is  a  vast  fissure  in  the  Earth's  surface,  its  walls,  that  now 
stand  apart,  were  apparently  united  and  solid  in  the  past ;  pro- 
jections on  the  one  side  are  faced  by  corresponding  depressions 
on  the  other ;  strata,  broken  off  here  are  continued  over  there. 
Low  down  are  found  petrified  specimens  of  the  first  orders  of 
animal  life  and  ripple  marks  made  whea  the  rock  was  in  its 
plastic  state — the  bed  of  some  lake  or  ocean — and  above 
these,  in  successive  layers,  towers  nearly  a  hundred  feet  of 
solid  rock. 

Who  can  say  what  ages  have  passed  away  since  the  restless 
sea  beat  upon  this  unknown  shore  and  left  the  marks  of  its 
wavelets  for  us  to  wonder  at  ?  Thought  is  lost  away  back  in 
the  eternity  of  "  The  Beginning  "  when  darkness  was  upon  the 
face  of  the  deep.  Later  came  the  dawn  of  Creation,  and  in 
its  full  light  the  lowest  of  animal  creatures  lived  their  brief  day 


The  Grand  Flume. 


Au  Sable  Chasm.  35 

and  added  their  mite  to  old  Ocean's  bottom.  Long  ages  rolled 
away,  and  floods  swept  over  the  uneasy  world  that  reeled  and 
staggered  with  the  pulsations  of  its  heart  of  fire.  The  thin 
shell  bubbled  up  into  mountain  ridges  and  broke  like  crackle 
glass,  then,  cooling,  left  its  marks  in  ragged  heights  and  fear- 
ful depths.  Then  came  great  icebergs,  grinding  the  uplifted 
points  to  atoms  in  their  course,  polishing,  leveling  and  filling 
up  the  openings.  Then  the  water  fled  away,  leaving  the 
seams  and  cracks  filled  with  the  rich  alluvium  gathered  in 
passing  centuries,  holding  in  its  bosom  the  germs  of  vegetable 
life  that  in  time  covered  all  with  a  mantle  of  green.  The 
yearly  rains  descended,  and  floods  swept  down  from  the  moun- 
tains above,  washing  outward  the  loose  deposit  that  had  filled 
the  great  crevices,  and  revealed  this  wonderland  of  "  The 
Walled  Banks  of  the  Au  Sable." 

Au  Sable  Chasm  had  been  of  local  interest  for  years,  but 
was  little  known  outside  until  about  1873,  when  a  couple  of 
Philadelphians,  to  whose  attention  it  had  been  called,  acquired 
possession,  and  built  stairways,  galleries  and  bridges,  which, 
with  the  aid  of  boats  near  the  lower  end,  enabled  visitors  to 
pass  through  its  entire  length.  In  1879,  the  wooden  galleries 
were  replaced  by  stone  walks  with  substantial  iron  railings, 
bridges  were  erected  above  high  water  mark  or  made  movable, 
so  as  to  be  taken  up  at  the  close  of  the  season  and  put  back  in 
the  spring,  and  new  boats  were  placed  in  the  navigable  waters 
below  Table  Rock,  to  carry  visitors  through  the  otherwise 
inaccessible  portions.  An  admission  fee  is  charged  according 
to  circumstances.  Large  parties  are  admitted  at  reduced  rates. 
Permanent  guests  of  the  Lake  View  House  are  admitted  free, 
as  the  hotel  and  Chasm  are  both  under  one  management. 

The  Lake  View  House  stands  on  the  high  land  over- 
looking the  head  of  the  Gorge,  Rainbow  Falls  and  the  little 
hamlet  of  Au  Sable  Chasm.  The  village  of  Keeseville  is  some- 
thing over  a  mile  distant.  Farther  west  is  seen  the  sharp  out- 
line of  Whiteface  Mountain.  Towards  the  east,  field  and 
forest  unite  in  one  broad,  grand  slope  to  the  shores  of  Cham- 
plain. 


Au  Sable  Chasm.  37 

The  house  is  four  stories  in  height,  with  a  tower  lifted  con- 
siderably higher,  and  an  open  platform  on  the  roof,  which 
gives  the  beholder  a  view,  sublime  in  its  extent  and  diversity. 
The  main  portion  was  built  in  1874,  added  to  in  1877,  and 
again  in  1879.  The  new  part  (not  shown  in  the  cut)  being  an 
extension  of  the  first  and  second  stories  toward  the  north, 
giving  a  spacious-dining  room  and  desirable  sleeping  apart- 
ments. Along  this  on  the  east  is  a  broad  piazza,  giving  a  lake 
frontage  of  nearly  two  hundred  feet.  Connected  with  the 
principal  sleeping-rooms  are  bath-rooms,  closets,  and  other 
modern  appliances  for  the  comfort  of  guests.  Water  for 
general  use  and  to  guard  against  the  accident  of  fire,  is  forced 
to  the  top  of  the  building  from  the  river  below.  The  house 
is  lighted  with  gas.  An  open  pavilion  on  the  west  is  one  of 
the  breeziest  of  lounging  places  imaginable.  Southeast  of  the 
house  are  the  billiard  and  bowHng  alleys  and  stables.  A 
livery  is  connected  with  the  hotel,  and  telegraph  and  telephone 
wires  enter  the  office.  The  house  is  furnished  in  a  most  com- 
plete and  substantial  manner,  and  the  beds  are  of  the  best. 
The  table  is  supplied  with  vegetables  grown  on  the  hotel  farm. 
Altogether  the  place  can  be  truthfully  spoken  of  in  high  terms 
of  praise. 

William  H.  Tracy  is  proprietor  of  the  Lake  View  House.* 
Mr.  Tracy's  faculty  of  making  friends  and  keeping  them  has 
brought  him  many  guests,  who  contribute  to  his  success  by 
their  continued  patronage.  That  he  is  efficient  and  popular  is 
proved  beyond  question.  He  will  be  assisted  the  present  sea- 
son by  Mr.  Charles  Fury,  manager  for  two  years  past  of  the 
Interlaken  at  Augur  Lake.  The  rates  for  board  are  $3  00 
per  day,  $10  50  to  $21  00  per  week.  Lake  View  House  car- 
riages meet  all  trains  at  the  Chasm  station.  Stopover  priv- 
ileges are  granted  travellers  by  the  D.  &  H.  R.  R.  to  those 
who  may  wish  to  visit  the  Chasm. 

Passing  from  the  Lake  View  House  to  the  main  road  a  few 
rods  north,  and  descending  the  hill  toward  the  west,  the  en- 
trance to  the  Chasm  is  reached.     Admission  is  gained  through 

♦As  this  book  goes  to  press  news  comes  that  the  Lake  View  House  has  been  to- 
tally destroyed  by  fire.    Plans  of  owner  and  management  unknown. 


MORSESHOE   FALLS. 


Au  Sable  Chasm. 


39 


"  The  Lodge."  a  picturesque  building,  octagonal  in  form  pago- 
da-like, unique  and  attractive.  Within  will  be  found  photo- 
graphs, books  and  curios  pertaining  to  the  place,  and  the  most 
gracious  of  wardens  who  will  show  you  down  the  steep  stairs 
that  lead  through  the  cleft  rock  to  the  bottom.  Before  de- 
scending, note  the  queer  effect  the  stained  glass  in  the  lodge 
windows  gives  to  objects  seen  through  them,  where  the  blue 
makes  frosty  winter,  and  the  red  the  most  insufferable  of  sum- 
mers of  the  same  objects. 

Rainbow  Falls,  at  the  head  of  the  chasm,  flings  its  mass  of 
water  from  nearly  70  feet  above  into  the  gulf  below,  and  from 
an  equal  height,  when  the  conditions  are  right,  a  stream  like  a 
great  waterspout  is  thrown  away  out  over  head  from  the  flume 
of  the  works  above.  Horse  Shoe  Falls  is  nearly  opposite  the 
entrance.  Note  its  suggestive  shape  from  the  lookout,  before 
descending  the  stairs. 

Pulpit  Rock  faces  us  as  we  approach  the  Elbow,  which  is 
the  first  turn  below  the  entrance.  Split  Rock  shows  on  the 
left  at  the  farthest  point  visible  as  you  turn  around  the  Elbow. 
The  rock  which  stands  at  the  left  of  the  opening  made  by  the 
splitting  off  of  a  large  fallen  mass  is  called  the  Elephant's 
Head,  and  with  the  morning  sun  hghting  up  the  massive 
front,  the  name  does  not  seem  inappropriate. 

Stop  when  you  reach  the  end  of  the  bridge  that  crosses 
here.  The  Devil's  Oven  is  in  the  wall  which  shuts  off  our 
farther  advance  on  the  right  of  the  stream.  Why  "  Oven  "  is 
not  so  clear,  for  if  you  climb  the  rough  rocks  and  enter  its  30 
feet  of  depth,  you  will  not  find  it  the  superheated  place  sug- 
gested, but  rather  the  reverse.  The  same  trophical  imagina- 
tion that  conceived  of  this  and  some  of  the  other  names  ap- 
phed  to  places  here,  gave  to  the  narrow  passage-way  at  our 
feet  the  name  of  Hell  Gate,  and  looking,  one  does  not  really 
wonder  at  the  fancy.  From  Hell  Gate  rising  in  a  great  sweep 
heavenward,  away  from  the  rushing  waters,  is  Jacob's  Ladder. 

Across  the  bridge  we  go,  around  the  rocky  abutment  toward 
the  left,  clinging  perhaps  to  the  iron  railing  which  prevents 
our  sliding  into  the  water  below,  beneath  overhanging  rocks, 


Au  Sable  Chasm.  41 

over  the  seething  water,  across  the  bridge  which  spans  the 
Devil's  Punch-Bowl — pausing  perhaps  to  glance  into  the  green 
depths  of  the  Fernery  at  our  left — down  across  the  worn 
rocks,  then  zig-zag  up  the  side  to  a  higher  level.  Here  is  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  specimens  of  rock  boring  in  the  coun- 
try, called  Jacob's  Well,  showing  where  some  vagrant  stone, 
caught  perhaps  in  an  eddy  when  the  stream  ran  here,  and 
whirled  about  continually,  ground  its  way  down  through  the 
strata  of  soft  rock,  until  it  wore  itself  out  in  vain  beatings 
against  its  prison  walls.  Here  a  bridge  crosses  Mystic  Gorge, 
to  the  Long  Gallery  beyond  which,  descending,  we  come  to 
Point  of  Rocks.  Note  high  up  the  sides  of  those  rocks  the 
segments  of  a  large  bowl  similar  to  Jacob's  Well,  and  back- 
ward the  rapids  which,  seen  from  this  point,  in  the  sunshine  at 
noon  are  very  beautiful.  Opposite  this  point  is  Hyde's  Cave, 
named  after  a  venturesome  individual  who,  in  187 1,  let  him- 
self down  by  a  ropp  from  the  rocks  above  and  was  the  first  to 
reach  its  dual  entrance.  Below  the  bridge,  which  leads  to 
Hyde's  Cave,  on  the  same  side  of  the  stream,  is  Bixby's 
Grotto. 

Returning  to  the  north  shore,  Smuggler's  Pass,  directly  op- 
posite the  Grotto,  is  crossed  by  a  bridge.  You  may  follow 
along  the  ledge  if  you  like  and  lose  yourself  from  sight  where, 
back  from  the  river,  this  passage  winds  into  quite  a  large 
chamber.  More  stairways  are  found  as  we  proceed,  then 
comes  the  Post  Office.  This  post  office  has  neither  Post  Mas- 
ter nor  distinguishing  name  in  the  postal  department,  but 
nevertheless  does  a  large  business,  pecuharly  its  own,  as  the 
observant  visitor  will  notice.  No  charge  is  made  here  for 
drop-letter  or  cards  and  many  avail  themselves  of  the  privilege. 

Clinging  close  to  the  rocks  protected  by  the  iron  railing  we 
pass  along  high  up  at  this  point,  then  through  the  Hanging 
Garden,  and,  descending,  cross  to  Table  Rock. 

From  the  upper  point  of  Table  Rock  look  backward  through 
the  Upper  Flume.  See  Column  Rocks  at  the  farthest  visible 
point  on  the  left,  and,  if  the  sun  be  right,  notice  the  Altar- 
cloth   hanging    over    the    water  at   the   right.     Turning;    the 


42  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

Anvil  is  before  you,  partially  hidden  perhaps,  by  the  rustic 
canopy  which  has  been  built  against  it  to  afford  shade  for 
such  as  may  care  to  take  advantage  of  it  when,  for  the  two  or 
three  brief  hours  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  sun  pours  its 
beams  down  into  this  open  space.  Back  of  the  Anvil,  Cathe- 
dral Rocks  rise  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level  floor,  suggest- 
ing in  their  broken  lines,  some  vast  cathedral's  ruined  towers 
and  aisles.  ''The  Sentinel"  stands  guard  at  the  outer  corner 
of  Cathedral  Rocks. 

Through  a  cleft  in  the  lower  edge  of  Table  Rock  we 
descend  and  enter  the  large  batteaux  found  waiting  here  for 
the  passage  through  the  Grand  Flume  and  beyond.  Do  not 
fear,  for  these  boats  are  strong  and  serviceable  to  withstand 
the  hard  knocks  they  get  at  times,  and  in  charge  of  stalwart 
boatmen  who  will  guide  us  safely  through  the  exciting  passage 
below.  The  Grand  Flume  reaches  from  Table  Rock  for 
some  distance  down.  Here  the  water  runs  straight  away,  shut  in 
by  walls  that  rise  perpendicularly  up  for  more  than  a  hundred 
feet,  while  the  dip  of  the  rock-strata  on  either  side  gives  one 
the  queer  sensation  of  running  down  quite  a  steep  hill. 

Here,  at  the  narrowest  place,  the  cliffs  are  scarcely  ten  feet 
apart  and  the  sky  above  seems  but  a  narrow  ribbon  of  blue. 
The  water  seems  to  round  up  in  the  middle  and  actually  to 
run  on  edge.  No  plummet  has  ever  been  found  to  sound  ijts 
depths.  Over  this  spot  the  main  road  crossed  years  ago  and 
the  place  is  spoken  of  now  by  the  older  inhabitants  as  "  High 
Bridge."  A  story  is  told  to  the  effect  that  when  after  a  time 
the  bridge  was  condemned  and  the  plank  taken  off  leaving 
only  the  naked  log  stringers  stretched  across,  a  horseman  went 
over  one  dark  and  stormy  night,  unconscious  of  his  danger  at 
the  time,  although  remembering  afterward  that  as  he  ap- 
proached in  the  intense  darkness,  his  horse  had  hesitated  and 
when  urged,  moved  forward  in  fear  and  trembling. 

The  Lower  Gate-Way  ends  the  Long  Flume  and  ushers  us 
into  the  Pool.  The  Sentry  Box  is  at  the  right  as  we  emerge 
into  the  open  space.  On  the  left  there  is  a  larger  creavasse  in 
which,  leaning,  stands  the  Broken  Needle.  At  the  Pool,  the 
river  turns  sharply  to  the  left  and  leads  downward  over  danc- 


THE    SENTINEL. 


44  The  Adirondacks. 

ing  rapids  where  we  go  until,  rounding  to  the  right,  we  enter 
quiet  water  once  more,  and  finally  pass  out  into  the  basin 
where,  at  the  landing,  carriages  are  taken  to  convey  us  back  to 
the  hotel. 

It  is  well  to  have  passed  through  Au  Sable  Chasm  once  in 
a  life  time.  Such  scenes  make  man  realize  the  puny  crea- 
ture that  he  is,  for — in  the  somewhat  stalwart  language  of 
Will  Carleton : 

*' To  appreciate  Heaven  well 

It  is  good  for  man  to  have  some  fifteen  minutes  of  Hell." 

******* 

Photographs  of  the  Chasm  may  be  procured  at  the  Lake 
View  House,  where  large  books,  showing  the  series,  are  on 
exhibition. 

Stages  leave  the  Lake  View  House  for  Lake  Placid  every 
morning,    Sundays    excepted,  at  7  -.30.     Fare,    $4. 

The  Chasm  House  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  toward 
Keesville.  It  is  a  substantial-looking  stone  building,  and 
affords  accommodations  for  25  guests.  M.  Whealon,  pro- 
prietor. Rates,  $2  per  day,  $10  to  $14  per  week.  This 
house  is  open  the  year  round. 

Keeseville  is  on  the  Au  Sable  River,  four  miles  from  Port 
Kent,  and  nearly  two  from  Au  Sable  Chasm.  It  is  one  of  the 
thriftiest  and  most  enterprising  little  villages  in  the  state.  It 
contains  a  number  of  fine  private  residences  and  public  edi- 
fices, built  of  the  beautiful,  creamy  sandstone  which  underHes 
this  section  of  the  country.  The  water-power  is  utilized  in  the 
twine,  wire,  and  iron  manufactories,  and  by  the  Au  Sable  Horse- 
Nail  Company,  here,  and  at  the  Nail-Rod  Works,  on  the 
road  to  Au  Sable  Chasm.  It  has  numerous  churches,  a  graded 
school,  and  a  wide-awake  weekly — the  Essex  County  Republi- 
can— which  keeps  the  pubUc  in  a  healthy  state  of  agitation. 

H.  M.  Mould,  druggist  and  bookseller,  supplies  many 
things  required  in  the  woods — and  the  sportsman  will  do  well 
to  consult  his  needs  before  going  into  the  farther  country. 
Mr.  Mould's  assortment  of  things,  ornamental  and  useful,  is 
large  and  well  chosen. 


Valcour  Island.  45 

The  Interlaken  is  at  Augur  Lake,  a  charming  bit  of  wa- 
ter two  and  a  half  miles  south  of  Keeseville.  It  is  under  the 
management  of  M.  C.  Fuller.  The  house  is  three  stories 
high,  with  extensive  verandas,  and,  as  a  concession  to  those 
who  may  fear  fires,  has  inside  and  outside  stairways  for  the 
upper  floors.  Accommodations  are  offered  for  about  100 
guests.  The  lake  affords  fine  boating  and  fishing.  Beyond 
the  lake  rise  the  rocky  walls  of  Poke  o'  Moonshine  and  Bald- 
face  mountains.  At  the  south  is  the  wild  Poke  o'  Moonshine 
Pass,  and  near  by  is  Augur  Chasm,  one  of  the  many  wonder- 
ful freaks  of  this  section,  in  character  like  that  of  Au  Sable 
Chasm.  Connected  with  the  house  is  an  extensive  farm,  from 
which  the  table  is  supplied.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
house  are  well-kept  croquet  and  tennis  grounds,  and  extensive 
pine  groves  are  near  by.  A  well-appointed  stable  affords  the 
means  of  riding  or  driving  at  will.  Special  conveyance  will 
meet  guests  at  Keeseville  on  the  arrival  of  trains  if  notice  is 
sent  in  advance.  Fare,  50  cents.  Capacity  100.  Rates  are 
from  $10  to  $12  per  week;  $3  per  day.  Open  June  to  No- 
vember.    For  particulars,  address  the  manager,  at  Keeseville. 

Returning  to  the  steamer,  we  see,  three  miles  north  of  the 
landing  at  Port  Kent,  the  sandy  mouth  of  the  Au -Sable  River. 
''  Au  Sable"  means  "  a  river  of  sand."  A  wooded  depression 
in  the  ground  above  shows  the  course  of  the  river.  Across 
from  this  is  the  widest  uninterrupted  portion  of  the  lake,  being 
here  nearly  eleven  miles  wide.  Measuring  into  Mallett's  Bay, 
the  distance  is  nearly  thirteen  miles. 

Valcour  Island  is  about  six  miles  north  of  Port  Kent,  the 
steamer  passing  between  it  and  the  main  land  on  the  west. 
Here,  Oct.  11,  1776,  occurred  the  first  naval  engagement  of 
the  Revolution,  between  the  British,  commanded  by  Captain 
Thomas  Pringle,  and  the  Americans  under  Benedict  Arnold. 
The  British  plan  was  to  send  a  fleet  from  the  north  to  capture 
Ticonderoga  and  clear  the  way  for  a  junction  with  the  army  of 


46  The  Adtrondacks. 

the  south,  that  should  come  by  way  of  the  Hudson.  Early  in 
the  spring  they  began  the  construction]  of  ships  at  St.  Johns, 
and  the  last  of  September  the  fleet,  consisting  of  a  three-masted 
vessel  carrying  eighteen  guns,  and  two  schooners  with  thirteen 
guns  each,  with  smaller  vessels — twenty-nine  vessels  in  all, 
mounting  eighty-nine  guns,  manned  by  picked  seamen  and 
practiced  gunners — moved  south  to  tlie  attack.  When  it  be- 
came known  that  preparations  of  this  nature  were  in  progress 
at  St.  John,  Arnold  was  commissioned  to  construct  vessels  to 
oppose  them,  and  massing  all  possible  help  and  material  at 
Skenesborough  (now  Whitehall),  set  about  the  work  with  tre- 
mendous energy,  and  in  August  put  afloat  a  number  of  flat- 
bottomed  sailing  craft  and  row  galleys,  carrying  altogether  84 
guns  and  152  swivel-guns.  The  largest  of  these  vessels  was 
the  ''Royal  Savage,"  a  two-masted  schooner  carrying  fourteen 
guns.  With  this  force  Arnold  sailed  north,  going  as  far  as 
Windmill  Point,  then  returning,  took  up  a  position  in  the  nar- 
row channel  between  Valcour  Island  and  the  main  land. 

The  British  fleet,  running  before  the  strong  north  wind, 
passed  on  the  outside  of  the  island  and  some  distance  beyond, 
before  discovering  the  position  of  the  Americans.  So  severe 
was  the  wind  that  the  larger  vessels  could  not  be  brought 
back  to  attack  and  only  some  of  the  smaller  ones  with  the 
schooner  Carleton  finally  succeeded  in  getting  in  position. 
The  engagement  continued  most  of  the  afternoon  during 
which  the  "Royal  Savage  "  was  disabled,  and  drifting  on  the 
rocks  was  abandoned.  During  the  night  it  was  set  on  fire  by 
the  British  and  sunk.  Portions  of  the  hull  can  yet  be  seen 
when  the  water  is  still,  resting  on  the  bottom  where  it  then 
went  down.  The  attacking  vessels  were  recalled  and  anchored 
in  line  at  the  south  to  cut  off  the  retreat  of  the  Americans. 
During  the  night  however,  the  Americans  slipped  through  the 
British  line  and  in  the  morning  were  discovered  making  in- 
dustrious tracks  toward  the  south  and  safety.  The  British 
pursuing,  over-hauled  Arnold  near  the  Four  Brothers  and  a 
running  fight  ensued  which  demonstrated    the    superiority   of 


Battle  of  Valcour.  47 

the  British  vessels  and  gunners.  The  remnant  of  the  Ameri- 
can boats,  ahiiost  disabled,  was  grounded  in  a  bay  on  the 
Vermont  shore  near  Panton  and  set  on  fire,  and  Arnold  and 
his  men  made  their  way  through  the  woods  to  Crown  Point. 
In  these  engagements,  although  defeated,  Arnold  acquitted 
Jiimself  in  such  a  manner  as  to  win  the  admiration  of  his 
enemies  and  the  approval  of  his  superior  officers.  Benedict 
Arnold  was  born  in  Norwich,  Conn.,  Jan.  3d,  1 741,  and  died 
in  London,  June  14,  1801.  As  a  youth,  turbulent;  as  a 
soldier,  ambitious,  bold  to  rashness  and  jealous  of  his  fellow 
officers;  dishonest.  The  transition  from  discontented  rebel  to 
infamous  traitor  was  easy.  He  was  a  brilliant  commander? 
his  fall  was  like  that  of  Lucifer. 

Valcour  Island  was  the  spot  selected  for  "  A  communal 
home,  based  on  the  principles  of  social  science,"  where 
the  "Dawn  Valcour  Community  "  dawned  on  the  astonished 
world  of  1874,  grew  into  a  mighty  power  (on  paper),  with 
"  Col."  John  Wilcox  to  furnish  the  intellectual,  and  "  Uncle  " 
Owen  Shipman  the  temporal  home ;  where  congenial  spirits 
were  invited  to  commingle  in  promiscuity,  but  all  too  soon 
were  on  the  ragged  edge  of  individuality,  while  the  musical 
auctioneer  warbled  over  the  odds  and  ends  that  remained  to 
satisfy  outside  demands.  In  the  words  of  one  of  its  leading 
members,  the  thing  "busted;"  and  the  "  Dawn"  was  merged 
into  twilight,  to  furnish  another  lesson  on  the  practicability  of 
free  love. 

Hotel  Champlain,  the  superb,  is  seen  on  the  bold  head- 
land that  puts  out  from  the  west  shore  just  north  or  Valcour 
Island.  It  does  not  come  upon  you  suddenly,  as  a  revelation. 
You  have  seen  it  over  the  lake  for  miles  back  on  your  course,, 
before  the  steamer  had  touched  at  Burlington,  perhaps,  or  from 
the  car  window  as  the  reeling  train  swung  around  Trembleau 
Mountain  nearly  temmiles  away,  and  at  intervals  ever  since 
as  the  road  wound  in  and  out  along  the  shore.  Now,  as  you 
approach,  its  magnificient  proportions  come  out  in  grand  re- 
lief against  the  sky. 

"Commanding"  is  not  misapplied  here.     The  hotel  stands 


48 


oji  a  height  that  breaks  away  abrtiptly  in  all  directions  for  a 
space,  then  in  gentler  slope  reaches  the  level  of  the  lower 
shores  north  and  south,  the  water  on  the  east,  and  the  valley 
toward  the  west  wliere  the  trains  of  the  D.  &  H.  flash  like 
gleaming  shuttle   tkrough   the  varj-tintecl    web    of  cultivated 


HOTKT.     Ch.\M1'I,.\(\.  ^cj 

fields  and  cross-line  roiintry  roads.  l'<^ng  colonades;  Ijroad 
piazzas  conforming  to  the  swelling  contour  of  facing,  east, 
south  and  west ;  breezy  porticos,  and  balconies  hung  along 
its  sides  or  perched  high  upon  tower  and  sharply  sloping  roof, 
give  grace  and  lightness  to  the  structure  that  rises  above  the 
tops  of  the  trees  crowning  the  rugged  bluff.  Distance  gives 
to  it  the  lightness  of  a  castle  built  of  straws,  the  closer  view 
reveals  it  solid  and  substantial  as  the  most  realistic  could 
wish. 

At  a  moderate  elevation  it  commands  in  an  unbroken 
circuit  a  panorama  that  for  picturesque  variety  and  beauty  is 
equaled  perhaps  nowhere  in  the  country.  Having  no  near 
mountain  heights  to  dwarf  its  own  strong  setting,  it  looks  out 
from  its  own  native  wilderness  over  land  and  water  diversified 
and  changeful.  It  is  restful,  rather  than  overpowering  with 
great  heights  and  dismal  depths.  Right  and  left  runs  the 
valley  with  its  checker-board  of  field  and  woodland ;  its  net- 
work ofroads;  its  quaint  farm  buildings  gathered  here  and 
there  in  little  knots  that  form  hamlets  and  prosperous  villages^ 
and  beyond,  hills  rising  into  the  ranges  of  the  Adirondacks 
that  stretch  across,  pointed  at  intervals  with  the  grander 
mountain  peaks.  Towards  the  east  a  broad  swath  has  been 
cut  out  through  the  green  trees  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
where  busy  life  attends  as  the  steamers  come  and  go.  Here 
gleam  the  beach  of  "  The  Singing  Sands"  circling  in  a  broad 
belt  toward  the  south,  between  the  restless  water  and  the  thick 
growing  cedars.  Toward  the  north  are  perpendicular  cliffs 
that  attain  quite  a  height — the  bluffs  which  undoubtedly  gave 
to  the  point  its  name.  They  are  cleft  asunder  at  one  place 
and  made  memorable  by  the  tradition  of  the  White  Squaw 
and  the  Bloody  Hand  that  left  its  marks  on  the  walls  and 
later  as  the  place  where  smugglers  successfully  landed  their 
stores  free  from  suspicion  because  of  its  seeming  inaccessibility 
to  those  who  were  not  in  the  secret. 

Valcour  Island  lies  like  a   garden    below,  bordered  with  its 

varying  belt  of  shrubbery.     Beyond  stretches    the  broad  lake, 

!  dotted  here  and  there  with  islands,  to  the  shores  of  Vermont 


50 


The  Adirondacks. 


the  Green  Mountains  beyond  rising  into  the  heights  of  Camel's 
Hump  and  Mount  Mansfield.  North  and  east  are  Grand  Isle 
and  the  Great  Back  Bay;  at  the  north  Cumberland  Head, 
the  sweeping  circle  of  Plattsburgh  Bay,  where  occurred  that 
splendid  naval  battle  of  1814,  the  last,  as  the  Battle  of  Val- 
cour  was  the  first,  with  the  mother  country — and  nearer,  the 
little  island  where  sleep  the  dead  of  that  eventful  day. 

Within  the  hotel  is  found  everything  that  appertains  to  a — 
oh,  much,  and  ill-used  term — first-class  house.  Every  modern 
appHance  tending  to  the  comfort  of  guests  will  be  found  here, 


D.  &  H.  RAILROAD  STATION. 


and  that  its  management  will  be  all  which  time  and  experi- 
ence has  shown  to  be  the  most  acceptable  to  the  travelled 
public,  may  be  confidently  expected,  for  that  prince  of  hotel- 
keepers,  E.  N.  Wilson,  of  the  Hotel  Cordova,  St.  Augustine, 
Fla.,  is  at  its  head. 

Excursions  may  be  made  by  steamboat  from  this  point 
south  to  Ticonderoga  or  north  among  the  islands  and  on  to 
the  fishing  grounds  of  the  Lake.  A  fleet  of  boats,  ranging 
from  the  light  Whitehall  skiff  to  the  dainty  little  steam  yacht, 
are  here  for  charter.  Drives  are  many  and  varied,  and  equip- 
pages  here  to  suit  all  occasions.  The  distance  from  New 
York  is  308  miles;  fare,  $8.05.     To  Montreal,  77  miles;   fare 


Plattsburgh.  51 

$2.71.  Quick  and  convenient  train  service  will  be  main- 
tained throughout  the  season  north  and  south.  Trains  on  the 
Chateaugay  Railroad  leave  in  the  morning,  arriving  at  Saranac 
Lake  and  the  various  hotels  reached  by  the  Chateaugay  Rail- 
road in  time  for  dinner. 

Crar  Island,  some  distance  north  of  Valcour,  is  the  burial 
place  of  the  common  sailors  and  marines  who  fell  in  the  battle 
of  Plattsburgh.  North  of  this,  and  projecting  well  out  across 
the  lake,  is  Cumberland  Head,  from  which  the  shore  recedes 
toward  the  north  and  west,  then  comes  back  in  a  wide  sweep, 
embracing  the  waters  of  Cumberland  Bay. 

The  Battle  of  Plattsburgh  took  place  here  in  18 14. 
Stripped  of  detail,  the  account  of  this  decisive  battle  is  as  fol- 
lows :  On  a  beautiful  Sabbath  morning,  September  nth,  1814, 
the  American  land  forces  under  General  McComb,  and  the 
American  fleet  under  Commodore  Macdonough,  were  simul- 
taneously attacked  by  the  British  land  and  water  forces,  under 
General  Sir  George  Provost  and  Commodore  Downie.  The 
engagement  resulted  in  a  complete  victory  for  the  former,  only 
a  few  small  boats  of  the  enemy  effecting  a  successful  retreat 
At  the  commencement  of  the  naval  engagement,  the  British* 
land  forces,  consisting  of  14,000  infantry,  advanced  against 
the  Americans,  3,000  strong,  entrenched  at  points  along  the 
south  bank  of  the  river,  but  were  repulsed  with  a  loss  of  2,500 
in  killed,  wounded  and  missing.  They  also  lost  immense 
stores,  which  were  abandoned  in  their  retreat — which  served 
them  right  for  breaking  the  Sabbath.  The  ruins  of  the  old 
forts  are  to  be  seen  on  the  south  outskirts  of  the  village.  The 
largest — Fort  Moreau — is  in  the  centre,  Fort  Brown,  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  Fort  Scott  near  the  lake.  This  is  a 
regular  army  post  now.  The  barracks,  about  a  mile  south  of 
the  village,  near  the  lake  shore,  built  in  1838,  are  occupied  by 
a  company  of  soldiers  belonging  to  the  regular  army. 

Plattsburgh  is  on  the  west  shore  of  this  bay,  a  thriving 
village  of  8,000  inhabitants.  It  is  of  considerable  commercial 
importance,  being  on  the  direct  line  between  New  York  and 
Montreal,  311  miles  from  the  former  and  74  from  the  latter. 
It  is  the  northern  lerminus  of  the    Au    Sable    (Branch)    Rail- 


52  The  Adirondacks. 

road,  and  from  it  the  Chateaugay  Railroad  penetrates  the 
mountains  toward  the  west.  Plattsburgh  is  thoroughly  cosm.o- 
politan,  with  an  opinion  to  offer  on  every  question  of  the  day, 
exerting  no  mean  influence  through  its  wide-awake  news- 
papers, the,  Daily  Telegram,  and  the  Sentinel 2^Vi^  Republicaji — 
the  latter  instituted  in  1811,  and,  notwithstand  its  age,  one  of 
the  most  reliable  and  ably  conducted  democratic  weeklies  in 
the  state. 

The  first  settler  in  this  region  was  Count  Charles  de  Freden- 
burgh,  a  captain  in  the  English  army.  The  warrant  conveying 
the  land  to  him  bore  date  June  11,  1769. 

The  property  reverting  to  the  state  after  the  Revolution, 
was  granted,  in  1784,  to  Zephaniah  Piatt  and  others,  and  in- 
corporated into  the  town  of  Plattsburgh,  April  4,  1785.  A 
company  was  then  organized  which,  in  June  of  the  same  year, 
erected  a  mill  at  Fredenburgh  Falls.  The  estimate  of  ex- 
pense contained,  among  other  items,  the  following  :  "  For 
bread,  $65  ;  for  rum  $80."  They  used  a  great  deal  of  bread 
in  those  days. 

In  the  year  1800  Plattsburgh  was  the  county  seat,  its  terri- 
tory extending  from  Lake  George  on  the  south  to  Canada 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  River  on  the  north  and  west.  The 
village  then  possessed  a  population  of  less  than  300,  and  with- 
in the  county  limits  were  owned  at  this  time  58  slaves. 

The  Fouquet  House  is  at  the  depot,  and  affords  a  con. 
venient  stopping  place  for  -narties  arriving  late  or  desiring  to 
take  an  early  train  out. 

The  Witherill  House  is  near  the  post-office.  It  is 
elegant  in  its  appointments,  its  pictures  and  decorations  dis" 
playing  a  high  degree  of  artistic  taste. 

The  Cumberland  stands  at  the  corner  of  Trinity  Square. 
It  is  one  of  the  oldest  hotels,  and  has  a  large  patronage.  G. 
S.  Corbin,  an  ex-railroad  man,  liberal  and  popular  with  the 
traveling  public,  is  the  proprietor.  A  free  'bus  runs  to  and 
from  all  boats  and  trains,  and  ample  time  is  given  parties 
arriving  on  the  sleeper  from  the  south  to  get  breakfast  and  a 
view  of  the  surrounding  country,  if  so  inclined,  before  starting 


Pl.ATTSBURGH.  53 

up  the  Chateaugay  Railroad  for  tlie  interior.       Rates,  $2   per 
day ;  $  i  o  to  $  1 2  per  week. 

There  is  also  an  excellent  restaurant  in  the  depot,  under 
railroad  management.  Here  a  good  lunch  can  be  had  at  a 
moderate  price,  or  a  comfortable  meal  during  the  twenty 
minutes  usually  given  for  that  purpose  between  the  arrival  and 
departure  of  trains. 

In  a  private  letter  to  the  author,  that  enthusiastic  sports- 
man, Dr.  George  F.  Bixby,  editor  of  the  Plattsburgh  Republican 
says  :  *'  In  the  universal  rush  for  the  woods  and  waters  of 
the  Adirondacks,  Lake  Champlain  has  been  shamefully  over- 
looked ;  here  are  islands  which  now  appear  in  all  their 
original  beauty  as  when  Champlain  first  saw  them,  the  abode 
of  eagles,  so  secluded  are  they,  and  here  is  better  fishing,  all 
the  year  round,  than  any  other  body  of  water  in  Northern 
New  York  can  boast  of;  big  hungry  fish,  voracious  pike, 
huge  black  bass,  as  well  as  the  nuiscallonge — that  nearly 
extinct  fish — the  noblest  and  gamiest  that  swims,  ready  for 
the  fisherman  at  all  seasons.  In  their  season,  water  fowl 
abound — enormous  black  ducks  and  wild  geese,  with  smaller 
game  in  abundance.  Lake  Champlain  is  also,  of  late,  attract- 
ing the  attention  of  canoeists,  yachtsmen  (both  steam  and 
sail)  and  camping  parties,  on  account  of  facility  of  access 
from  the  Hudson  and  St.  Lawrence  for  all  kinds  of  craft; 
hospitality  of  inhabitants ;  pure  air ;  pure  water ;  delightful 
scenery,  eligible  camping  grounds  and  abundant  bases  of  sup- 
plies, all  offering  irresistible  attraction  to  those  unable  to  en- 
dure the  fatigue  incident  to  a  lodge  in  the  vast  wilderness,  or 
that  other  class  who  are  '  constitutionally  tired,'  and  to  whom 
distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view  of  Adirondack  peaks. 
To  such  I  offer  a  word  of  advice — halt  near  the  north  end  of 
the  lake,  in  some  of  the  comfortable  homes,  whose  doors  will 
be  thrown  open  for  a  moderate  consideration,  or  encamp  be- 
neath the  friendly  shade  of  some  island  grove,  where  the 
punkies  cease  from  troubling  and  the  weary  are  at  rest." 


54  The  Adirondacks. 

Rouse's  Point,  according  to  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey,  is  107  miles  north  of  "Whitehall.  It  is  the  most 
important  port  of  entry  on  the  frontier.  Five  railroads  centre 
here,  viz.f  The  D.  &  H.,  leading  to  New  York,  the  O.  &  L. 
C,  to  Ogdensburg  and  the  Thousand  Islands,  the  Grand 
Trunk  to  Montreal,  the  Portland  &  Ogdensburg  to  the  White 
Mountains,  and  the  Central  Vermont  to  Boston  and  the  south- 
east. 

Hotel  Windsor  is  on  the  lake  shore  a  short  distance  south 
of  the  little  village,  far  enough  to  be  free  from  its  bustle  and 
removed  entirely  from  the  annoying  sounds  of  traffic  and  con- 
fusion at  the  busy  station.  It  commands  a  widely  extended 
view  of  the  lake,  its  islands,  and  the  distant  mountains  of  Ver- 
mont, whose  swelling  sides  and  rounded  peaks  change  contin- 
ually under  the  passing  shadows  hke  the  shifting  forms  of  the 
kaleidoscope.  Along  shore  and  over  among  the  islands  are 
famous  fishing  grounds  where  the  skillful  angler — and  some- 
times those  not  so  highly  skilled — find  very  satisfactory  sport 
with  the  voracious  pike,  the  gamey  bass,  and  the  dainty  yellow 
perch.  A  photograph  is  shown  by  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel, 
where  a  string  of  about  three  dozen  pickerel,  pike,  bass,  and 
Muscallonge  with  a  certified  weight  of  130-odd  pounds,  show 
*^he  result  of  a  single  day's  sport.  A  lithographic  copy  of  the 
photograph  has  a  "  fishy  "  look,  but  the  photograph  is  proof 
positive,  for  "  the  instrument  never  lies."  The  house  is  nearly 
new ;  fresh  and  inviting  in  appearance,  the  furnishing  is  good, 
the  beds  of  the  best,  while  the  table  is  exceptionally  nice.  The 
proprietor  is  Charles  F.  Beck,  of  the  well-known  Florida 
House  at  St.  Augustine,  Florida.  Steam  yachts  for  excursions, 
sail-boat  and  skifi"  for  fisherman  and  idler;  riding,  driving,  and 
the  regulation  lawn  sports  are  available  here,  so  that  none 
need  lack  for  amusements. 

A  free  carriage  runs  to  all  trains.  New  York  morning  pa- 
pers arrive  early  in  the  evening.  Telegraph  in  the  hotel  office. 
Price  for  board,  $2.50  to  $3  per  day;  $12  to  $15  per  week. 


Rouses  ToIxNT.  55 

The  Coquette  is  a  screw  steamer  with  headquarters  liere. 
It  is  a  steel  hull,  114  feet  long  and  22  feet  beam,  with  a 
cabin  on  the  main  deck,  a  platform  with  awning  above,  buffet 
and  other  conveniences.  Captain  Rockwell  (Pilot  Rockwell 
of  our  narrative  73)  is  the  commander.  The  Coquette  leaves 
the  Windsor  at  about  7:30  in  the  morning,  touching  at  the 
island  landings,  at  Plattsburgh  and  Port  Kent,  and  arrives  at 
Burlington  about  noon.  Returning,  reaches  Rouses  Point 
about  6,  in  time  for  supper  and  to  connect  with  trains  for  the 
north  and  west. 

Fort  Montgomery,  a  little  way  north  of  the  long  bridge,  is 
an  interesting  ruin  belonging  to  the  United  States.  About  a 
mile  north  of  this  a  belt  of  woodland  marks  the  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and^Canada. 

7|p  ■3K'  ^  T^  SJ€  ^fi  ^ 

The  O.  &  L.  C.  railroad  runs  west  from  Rouses  Point  to 
Ogdensburgh  from  which  place  the  Thousand  Islands  can  be 
reached  by  boat  or  rail.  For  a  portion  of  the  way  this  road 
runs  through  wild  land  and  from  it  several  important  gate- 
ways enter  the  Adirondacks. 

Chateaugay  is  45  miles  west  of  Rouses  Point,  a  somewhat 
thriving  country  village  of  about  700  popula- 
tion with  two  hotels,  stores,  etc.  Chateaugay 
Chasm,  ij  miles  north  of  the  station,  rivals 
Au  Sable  Chasm  in  many  respects,  and  de- 
serves to  take  rank  among  the  wonders  of  the 
Adirondack  region.       It   is  about  a   half  mile 


CHMEAUGAY 


1 


'^    Lake  Ha 


Ralphs 
16     ' 


1 


in  extent,  walled  in  by  perpendicular  cliffs,  through  which  the 
river  runs,  descending  in  its  first  leap  a  distance  of  50  feet; 
thence  by  numerous  broken  steps,  throughout  its  entire 
length.  It  is  rendered  accessible  to  the  public  by  means  of 
stairways,  galleries,  etc.  The  Chasm  House  stands^  at  the 
entrance.  It  is  much  resorted  to  by  local  picnic  parties  and 
by  wonder-seekers  from  a  distance. 

Chateaugay  Lake  (Lower)  outlet  is  8  miles  south  of  the 
station.  Stage  daily.  The  lake  is  about  2^  miles  long  and  is 
connected  with  the  Upper  Lake  by  a  navigable  stream   about 


56  The  Adirondacks. 

the  same  length.  A  steamer  runs  at  intervals  through  the 
two  lakes,  and  a  road  along  the  east  shore  affords  means  of 
transit.  The  hotels  of  the  Upper  Lake  are  "  Merrill's," 
"Relph's"  and  "  Indian  Point  House".     See  page  59. 

Malone,  the  county  seat  of  Franklin,  is  57  miles  from 
Rouses  Point  and  61  from  Ogdensburgh.  It 
is  a  flourishing  village,  and  one  of  the  im- 
portant towns  of  the  state.  "  Hotel  Flana- 
gan" is  the  leading  house.  Rates,  $2.00  to 
$3.00  per  day.  W.  R.  &  S.  J.  Flanagan, 
Proprietors.  Lake  Titus,  8  miles  south, 
may  be  reached  by  special  conveyance. 
This  pretty  sheet  is  about  2  miles  long,  and  a  quarter  that  in 
width.  Limited  accommodations  may  be  found  at  the  out- 
let. The  Mountain  View  House  is  at  the  State  Dam^  on  the 
Salmon  River,  13  miles  from  Malone.  Accommodations  are 
here  for  about  30  guests,  R.  G.  Low,  proprietor.  Post-ofhce, 
Malone,  N.  Y.  Rates,  $10  to  15  per  week,  $2.50  per  day. 
Indian  Lake  is  one-third  of  a  mile  north,  and  outlets  into  the 
river  above  the  State  Dam.  From  it  a  trail  leads  north  to  the 
road  running  east  to  Ragged  Lake  (4J  miles  long,  including 
the  "Figure  Eight").  The  two  are  connected  by  a  short 
stream  and  one-third  mile  carry.  The  name  of  each  is  de- 
scriptive enough.  Ingraham  Pond  is  about  i|-  miles  west  of 
the  head  of  Ragged  Lake.  Across  from  the  shore  opposite  the 
Ragged  Lake  House,  a  trail  leads  east  i  mile  to  Mountain 
Pond  ;  thence  northeast  4  mifes  to  the  outlet  of  Chateaugay 
Lake.  Mecham  Lake  House  is  25  miles  from  Malone,  and 
T2  miles  from  Paul  Smith's  Station.  Will  accommodate  75. 
Rates,  $10  to  $17.50  per  week;  $2  to  $3  per  day.  A.  R. 
Fuller,  proprietor.  Meacham  Lake  is  about  2^  miles  long. 
Its  outlet  is  the  east  branch  of  the  St.  Regis  River. 

The  Northern  Adirondack  Railroad  extends  from 
Moira,  70  miles  west  of  Rouses  Point,  south  to  Tupper  Lake 
Station,  a  distance  of  56  miles.  The  Blue  Mountain  House 
(P.  O.  Santa  Clara),  near  Blue  Mountain  of  the  North,  is  four 
miles  southwest  of  Spring  Cove  (daily  stage  75  cents),  will  ac- 


Northern  Adirondack  R.  R. 


57 


lUPPlKLfi'^t    K0U1» 


commodate  50.     Board    $1.50  per   day;  $6  to  $9  per  week. 
H.  Phelps,  proprietor. 

Stages  are  taken  at  Paul  Smith 
Station  for  St.  Regis  Lake  (see  page 
60);  at  Saranac  Inn  Station  for 
Saranac  Inn,  8  miles  distant  (see 
page  106)  ;  at  Childwood  Station 
for  Childwood  Park  House,  7  miles 
(see  page  108),  and  at  TupperLake 
Station  for  Wavvbeek  Lodge,  8 
miles  (see  page  105.)  Steamboat 
runs  from  Tupper  Lake  Station  to 
the  hotels  on  Tupper  Lake  (page 
109).  During  the  summer,  a 
through  train  service  is  maintained  from  New  York  via  the  N. 

Y.  C.  and  R.  W.  &  O.  Railroads. 

*****  ^  * 

The  Chateaugay  Railroad  extends  from  Plattsburgh  to 
Saranac  Lake,  a  distance  of  73  miles.  The  first  section  was 
built  by  the  State  to  reach  CHnton  Prison,  at  Dannemora,  17 
miles  from  Plattsburgh.  In  1880,  it  was  extended  to  Lyon 
Mountain,  17  miles  further;  but  the  influx  of  Adirondack 
tourists  was  increasing,  and  the  road,  that  climbed  an  altitude 
of  2,000  feet  to  Lyon  Mountain,  must  go  farther  into  the 
wilderness.  So  it  was  extended  to  Loon  Lake;  In  1888,  19 
miles  more  were  added,  bringing  it  to  Saranac  Lake, 
distributing  its  passengers  by  various  stage  routes  that 
branch  from  it  to  a  score  or  more  of  summer  hotels.  By  it 
tourists  reach  Chazy,  Chateaugay,  Loon,  Rainbow,  St.  Regis, 
and  Upper  and  Lower  Saranac  Lakes,  Ray  Brook,  Lake 
Placid  and  Mirror  Lake,  reaching  even  into  Cascade  Lakes 
and  Adirondack  Lodge.  A  Wagner  sleeping  car  leaves  Grand 
Central  Station,  New  York,  daily  the  year  round,  for  Platts- 
burgh, where  passengers  are  given  time  for  breakfast  before 
leawng  for  the  interior.  During  the  pleasure  season,  passen- 
gers can  leave  Grand  Central  Station  7:30  p.  m.,  connecting 
v.'ith  trains  leaving  Plattsburgh  7:30  a.  m.,  and  reach  the  vari- 


The  Adirondacks. 


ous  resorts  in  time  for 
dinner.  Passengers 
can  leave  New  York 
at  6  p.  M.  by  Hudson 
River  night  boats  and 
by  the  Adirondack 
special  from  Albany 
or  Troy,  reach  Platts- 
burgh  at  12:20  and 
Saranac  Lake  4:30  p. 
M.  the  following  day. 
This  enables  passengers  to  take  the  stage  ride  from  the  rail- 
road to  the  various  hotels  in  the  cool  of  the  day.  Drawing- 
room  cars  are  run  on  all  trains.  Sleeping  and  drawing-room 
car  accommodations  can  be  secured  in  advance  at  any  of  the 
stations.  A  Sunday  train  each  way  will  run  during  July  and 
August. 

Leaving  Plattsburgh,  the  road  runs  south  for  a  short  dis 
tance,  out  past  the  U.  S.  Barracks ;  then  swings  around  to- 
ward the  west,  and  crossing  the  Saranac  River  10  miles  froir 
Plattsburgh,  climbs   diagonally  up  out  of  the  valley. 

Dannemora  is  17  miles  from,  and  1,300  feet  above,  Platts- 
burgh. Clinton  Prison  is  situated  here,  and  affords  a  quiet 
home  for  a  number  of  people  of  leisure,  who  pass  their  time 
in  meditation,  making  clothing,  and  other  congenial  pursuits. 

From  Dannemora,  the  road  swings  westerly,  around  the 
south  side  of  Johnson  Mountain,  and  north,  near  the  west 
shore  of  Chazy  Lake  ;  then,  west  and  southerly  to  the  mines  ; 
running  17  miles  to  reach  a  point  nine  miles  distant  in  a 
straight  line. 

Chazy  Lake  is  nearly  four  miles  long  and  a  mile  wide. 
Chazy  Lake  House  has  an  advertised  capacity  for  50  to  60 
guests.  Rates  $2.50  per  day ;  $12.00  to  $i6.oo  per  week. 
Open,  May  to  October  15.  This  house  stands  near  the  north 
end  of  the  lake,  and  may  be  reached  by  boat  from  Chazy  Sta- 
tion.    Fare  50  cents. 


ClIATEAUGAY    LaKE.  59 

Lyon  Mountain  is  the  centre  of  extensive  mining  opera- 
tions of  the  Chateaugay  Ore  and  Iron  Gompany,  and  exists  at 
the  pleasure  of  that  corporation.  In  1878  it  contained  only  a 
few  scattered  houses ;  it  now  has  a  hotel,  stores,  and  churches, 
with  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  is  in  a  thriving  condition. 
It  is  peculiarly  a  mining  town  in  appearance ;  lacking  the 
usual  accompaniment  of  gambler  and  rumseller,  for  people  of 
that  ilk  are  not  tolerated  here.  The  attention  of  all  good 
people,  who  believe  evil  should  be  licensed,  because  prohibi- 
bition  can  never  prohibit,  is  respectfully  called  to  this  spot. 
The  houses  are  mostly  of  logs  and  of  uniform  size.  A  day 
can  be  spent  here  profitably  inspecting  the  mines  and  miners 
at  work,  the  crushers,  separators,  etc. 

Upper  Chateaugay  Lake  is  about  four  miles  in  length  and 
one  broad.  It  empties  at  the  north,  through  a  winding  stream, 
into  the  Lower  Lake,  which  is  somewhat 
smaller  than  the  upper.  It  is  picturesque 
with  its  surrounding  mountains  and  rug- 
ged shores.  It  is  reached  by  stage  from 
Lyon  Mountain,  4  miles,  and  from 
Chateaugay  Station  on  the  O.  &  L.  C. 
R.  R.  by  a  6  mile  stage  ride  and  by  con- 
necting boat  through  the  lower  lake  and 
narrows.  It  has  a  number  of  summer  cottage  camps  on  its 
shore. 

A  small  steamboat  runs  through  the  lower  and  upper  lakes 
and  landing  at  all  camps  and  hotels.     Fare  50  cents. 

Ralph's,  on  the  east  shore  3  J  miles  from  Lyon  Mountain 
(stage  fare  50  cents),  has  capacity  for  about  100  guests.  Open 
from  June  15th  to  October.  Rates,  $3.00  per  day;  $14.00 
to  $17.50  per  week.  J.  W.  Hutton,  Proprietor.  Here  will  be 
found  tennis,  billiards  and  bowling,  for  lovers  of  such  amuse- 
ments, boats,  guides  and  camp  supplies  for  the  sportsman, 
and  fishermen.  The  house  is  specially  attractive  because  of 
its  air  of  neatness   that  extends  from  office  to   kitchen:  thq 


6o  The  Adirondacks. 

beds  are  of  the  best  and  the  table  equaled  by  few  of  the  most 
famous.  There  is  a  telegraph  office  in  the  hotel  and  two  mails 
daily.  The  New  York  morning  papers  arrive  early  the  day 
after  publication.  The  proprietor  is  genial  and  obliging  and, 
in  short,  it  is  one  of  the  places  where  you  realize  that  there  is 
Consideration  for  you  not  limited  by  the  length  of  your  purse 
or  influence — one  of  the  places  where  with  a  degree  of  com- 
fort not  often  met  with  you  are  surrounded  by  a  primitive  en- 
vironment that  goes  to  make  the  ideal  summer's  outing.  Dur- 
ing the  season  Mr.  Hutton  may  be  found  here — a  genial  boni- 
face  always  at  his  post — when  winter  comes  he  is  off  with  the 
birds  to  florida,  where  he  welcomes  his  cold-blooded  patrons 
from  the  north  in  a  like  cheery  and  acceptable  manner. 

The  Merrill  House  is  near  the  outlet,  with  accommoda- 
tions for  about  fifty.  Rates  $10.00  to  $14.00  per  week,  with 
a  discount  for  small  children.  Post-office  ("  Merrills,"  N.  Y.) 
and  telegraph  office  in  the  house.  Oliver  Young,  proprietor. 
The  house  stands  on  rising  ground  about  60  feet  back  from 
the  water's  edge.  It  is  one  of  these  long  rambling  cozy  sort 
of  structures  that  gives  you  a  sense  of  homelike  welcome, 
never  felt  in  presence  of  a  triumph  in  classical  architecture. 
The  view  from  the  house  is  beautiful,  showing  the  entire 
stretch  of  the  lake  with  the  surrounding  mountains.  Merrill's 
has  been  for  years  a  noted  resort  among  old  hunters  and  fisher- 
men. The  smaller  game  birds  and  water  fowl  are  here  in 
their  season,  squirrels  and  foxes  abound,  and  deer  and  bear 
are  not  uncommon  additions  to  the  list  of  the  killed.  It  gives 
also  by  its  position  near  the  outlet,  a  choice  of  lake  or  river 
fishing  according  to  day  or  season.  It  furnishes  outfits  and 
supplies  for  hunter  and  fishermen.  It  maintains  special  baited 
buoys  in  the  lake  at  the  service  of  guests.  For  home  amuse- 
ments are  billiard  and  pool  tables,  a  tennis  court  and  base-ball 
ground.  For  riding  or  driving,  horses  and  carriages  can  be 
had.  For  fishing  or  rowing,  boaits,  guides  and  outfits  to  suit. 
Stages  meet  all  trains  at  Lyon  Mountain,  about  four  miles  dis- 
tant.    Fare  50  cents. 


Chateaugay  Lake.  6i 

The  Indian  Point  House  is  on  the  west  side  of  tlie  lake 
near  the  south  end;  capacity  about  40  guests.  Rates,  $1.50 
per  day,  $8  to  $10  per  week.  Post-office  address,  "  Merrill's, 
N.  Y."  R.  M.  Shutts,  proprietor.  The  accommodations  are 
in  a  group  of  buildings  that  have  grown  to  meet  the  increasing 
demand  of  visitors,  and  the  equipment  consists  of  some  of  the 
best  beds  made,  and  furniture  comfortable  enough  to  fill  all 
reasonable  desires.  It  is  strictly  a  temperance  house,  no  liquor 
being  sold  on  the  premises.  Steamboats  run  regularly  to 
connect  with  the  stage  at  Ralph's  and  through  to  the  Lower 
Lake  to  connect  with  stage  for  the  O.  &  L.  C.  Railroad. 
Fare  to  railroad,  $1.  Mr.  Shutts  is  a  veteran  hunter  and  fish- 
erman, and  his  house  is  admirably  located  for  lovers  of  wild- 
woods  sports.  Some  of  the  best  fishing  grounds  of  the  lake 
are  close  by  the  house.  At  the  back  is  a  dense  forest  that 
reaches  out  into  the  wild  section,  through  which  trails  run  to 
smaller  sheets  of  water  that  are  little  known  exgept  to  the  local 
hunter  and  fisherman.  All  requisites  for  sport  are  supplied 
when  wanted. 

The  railroad  swings  around  the  west  side  of  Lyon  Moun- 
tain affording  a  beautiful  and  extended  view  of  Chateaugay 
Lake  at  one  point  where  the  woods  have  been  cut  away  for 
that  purpose.  Then  come  forge  and  coal-kilns,  and  beyond, 
winding  west  and  south,  the  road  penetrates  a  wild  and  inter- 
esting section,  hJretofore  almost  an  unknown  wilderness,  until 
Loon  Lake  is  reached.  Loon  Lake  extends  south  from  the 
station,  and  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  long,  with  high 
banks  and  irregular  shores. 

The  Loon  Lake  House  stands  on  the  high  ridge  which, 
like  the  rim  of  some  wide-mouthed  volcano,  holds  the  lake 
within  its  circHng  walls  at  its  south  end,  while  beyond,  the 
land  drops  rapidly  down  into  the  deep  valley  of  the  Saranac. 
The  house  is  roomy,  well  furnished,  and,  together  with  the  cot- 
tages, has  capacity  for  about  300  guests.  Price  for  board, 
$3.50  to  $5  per  day,  $17  to  $25  per  week.  Ferd.  W.  Chase, 
proprietor.  Post  office.  Loon  Lake.  Stages  meet  all  trains 
at  Loon  Lake  Station;  fare  50  cents. 


62-A  The  Adirondacks. 

Skirting  the  western  shore  of  the  Lake  the  train  swings 
around  the  east  side  of  Round  Pond,  and  winding  in  and  out 
between  other  small  ponds  and  among  low  sand  dunes  that  are 
scantily  covered  with  tufted  grass,  reaches  Rainbow  Station, 
6 1  miles  from  Plattsburgh. 

The  Rainbow  House  is  three  miles  west  of  Rainbow  Sta- 
tion. Fifty  guests  can  be  accommodated  here.  Board  $2.50 
per  day;  $10.00  to  $15.00  per  week.  J.  M.  Wardner,  pro- 
prietor.    Post  office,  Rainbow,  N.  Y. 

This  house  has  more  than  the  usual  number  of  attractions 
for  the  hunter  or  fisherman,  as  might  be  expected,  where  the 
proprietor  himself  is  an  ardent  lover  of  sport,  and  combines 
with  a  hearty  good-fellowship  a  knowledge  of  the  habits  and 
haunts  of  wild  game  possessed  by  few.  Mr.  Wardner  is 
cordially  seconded  in  all  his  enterprises  by  his  efficient  help- 
meet, who  counts  among  her  accomplishments  that  of  a  taxi- 
dermist and  gives  practical  evidence  of  her  work  by  filling 
every  corner  of  the  house  with  native  specimens  of  the  art. 
The  house  is  finished  in  a  most  substantial  manner  with  native 
woods,  and  arranged  to  be  warmed  comfortably  throughout  in 
case  of  a  sudden  lowering  of  the  temperature,  such  as  may 
be  expected  here  by  the  early  fishermen  or  the  hunter  who 
tarries  for  late  shooting.  This  is  noted  fishing  ground  and 
claims  the  proud  distinction  of  yielding  the  largest  lake  trout 
on  record,  one  having  a  weight  of  52  pounds.  Numerous 
small  ponds  in  this  vicinity  yield  excellent  fishing  while  Rain- 
bow Lake,  and  Wardner  Pond  (which  comes  close  up  to  the 
house)  with  adjacent  waters  have  been  stocked  with  800,000 
trout  fry  the  past  five  years,  afi"ording  rare  sport  and  astonish- 
ing results,  sometimes  to  even  the  unpracticed  fisherman. 
Telegraph  office  and  post  office  are  in  the  house.  Carriages 
run  to  all  trains  at  Rainbow  Station,  fare  75  cents.  Recent 
improvements  have  been  made  in  the  surroundings  that  will  be 
appreciated  by  visitors.  The  large  farm  connected  with  the 
house  insures  a  supply  of  farm  products,  fresh  and  healthful. 


The  Adirondacks.  62-B 

Bloomingdale  (station)  is  66  miles  from  Plattsburgh. 
Here  stages  are  taken  for  Bloomingdale  and  Paul  Smith's. 

The  Crystal  Spring  House,  just  outside  the  hamlet  of 
Bloomingdale,  is  one  and  a  half  miles  east  of  the  station. 
Stage  fare,  25  cents.  It  is  a  pleasant  and  attractive  place,  with 
capacity  for  30  guests.  M.  L  Baldwin,  proprietor.  Rates, 
$2.50  per  day;  $10.00  to  $15,00  ^pr  week,  with  a  liberal  re- 
duction to  families.  The  notable  spring  that  suggested  the 
name  for  the  house  is  here,  with  water  as  pure  as  can  be  found 
in  the  Adirondacks.  This  place  also  affords  good  winter  ac- 
commodations, and  a  number  of  guests  spent  last  winter  here. 
The  level  roads  about  the  town  afford  pleasant  drives,  and 
good  quarters  are  offered  for  those  who  may  bring  their  own 
horses.  Mr.  Baldwin  is  manifestly  filled  with  a  desire  to  make 
and  keep  friends,  and  his  house  is  eminently  satisfactory. 

St.  Regis  Lake  House,  familiarly  known  as  Paul  Smith's, 
is  seven  miles  west  of  Bloomingdale  Station.  Stage  fare,  $1. 
Paul  Smith  came  here  in  1861,  and  built  a  small  house  among 
the  pines,  on  Lower  St.  Regis  Lake,  for  the  accommodation  of 
sportsmen.  It  had  a  rapid  growth  in  business,  and  soon 
reached  remarkable  proportions.  It  now  has  a  stated  capacity 
for  500  guests.  Rates,  $4.00  per  day;  $21.00  to  $30.00  per 
week.  A.  A.  Smith,  proprietor.  Post-office,  "  Paul  Smith's." 
This  point  is  reached  also  from  Paul  Smith's  Station  on  the 
Northern  Adirondack  railroad,  over  which  during  the  season  of 
pleasure  travel  cars  are  run  from  Grand  Central  Station,  New 
York,  without  change.  For  descriptive  and  excuision  book  of 
the  section  covered  by  this  route,  address  A.  C.  Allison,  G. 
P.  A.,  Moira,  N.  Y. 

Lower  St.  Re;gis  Lake  is  about  two  miles  long  by  one 
broad,  and  discharges  west  through  the  middle  branch  of  the  St. 
Regis  River.  It  is  about  1,600  feet  above  tide.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  tame  compared  with  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts, the  only  elevation  of  any  considerable  importance  being 
St.  Regis  Mountain. 

Saranac  Lake  (village)  is  73  miles  from  Plattsburgh.  Fare 
from  New  York,  by  rail,  $11.75.  For  matter  relating  to  this 
section  see  page  97. 


52-0  Peasleville. 

Peasleville  lies  among  the  hills  about  ten   miles  due  west 
from  Hotel  Champlain  on  the  little  river  that  empties  into  the 
lake  at  the  south  of  Bluff  Point.     It  is  a  place  comparatively 
unknown   to  the   summer   tourist — outside  the   great   pubHc 
thoroughfares  where  the  pleasure-seeker  goes   up   and   down. 
It  is  reached  best  over  the  Au  Sable  branch  of  the  "  D.  &  H." 
railroad  from  Plattsburgh  to  Peru,  thence  by  carriage  six  miles 
west.     It  lies  between  two  parallel  mountain  spurs  that  pro- 
ject eastward  from  the  great  Adirondack  system,  enclosing  the 
Salmon  River  Valley.     The  elevation  is  sufficient  to  give  it  a 
pure  and  bracing  atmosphere,  and   the  views  from    its  near 
heights  are  far-reaching  and  restful.     On   the   one  hand,   the 
valley  stretches  away  toward  old  Whiteface  till  it  is  lost  in  the 
higher  land  of  the  Adirondack   plateau;    on   the  other,   it  in- 
cludes the  most  beautiful  portion   of  the   Champlain  Valley, 
the  broad  lake  and   the  Green  Mountains   beyond.     At  fre- 
quent intervals  the  river  is  fed  by  little  streams  from  living 
springs  on  the  mountain  sides,  with  water  as  pure,  sweet  and 
wholesome  as  the  earth   affords.     Brook  trout  fishing — good 
before  and  seldom  indulged  in  here  except  by  the  local  angler 
with  the  crudest  of  tackle — has  recently  been  greatly  improved 
by  stocking  the  principal  streams,  and  affords  very  satisfactory 
sport  to  the  fisherman,  experienced  or  otherwise.     Partridges 
are  abundant  on  the  mountains,  and,  with  squirrels,  aftbrd  fit 
targets  for  the  fowling  piece  which  is  the  only  firearm  that  one 
needs  to  take  to  this  section.     For  amusements,   Davis  Pond, 
a  mile  long  by  a  fourth   that  in  width,  gives  opportunity  for 
boating  while  the  many  picturesque  roads  that  branch  out  as 
the  valley  widens  at  the  east  and  west  ends,  afford  unlimited 
extent  and  variety  that  cannot  fail  in  some  instance,  at  least, 
to  prove  delightful.     Accommodations  can  be   found  among 
the  farm  houses  in  the  valley  (or  on  the  mountain  sides,  if  one 
is  inclined  to  seek  the  greater  elevations)  where  wholesome 
country  fare,  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  farm  and  dairy  pro- 
ducts can  be  had  and  willing  and  unstinted  service,  respecting 
which  address   Arnold  &  Ricketson,  Peasleville,  Clinton  Co.. 
N.  Y.,  for  particulars  of  names  and  places. 


Wilmington.  62 -n 

The  Au  Sable  Branch  R.  R.  extends  from  Plattsburgh, 
10  miles,  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  to  Au  Sable  Station. 
Coaches  leave  Au  Sable  on  the  arrival  of  morning  train  from 
Plattsburgh  and  stage  from  Au  Sable  Chasm,  going  via  Wil- 
mington Notch,  where  dinner  is  had;  arriving  at  Lake  Placid 
at  about  3.  Fare  from  Au  Sable  Station  to  Wilmington,  $1, 
to  Lake  Placid,  $2.50, 

A  stage  runs  daily  from  Au  Sable  Forks,  13  miles  above 
Au  Sable  Station,  to  Keen  Valley,  20  miles  south,  7na  Lower 
and  Upper  Jay. 

When,  in  '73,  the  Professor  and  I  made  our  first  visit  to 
this  section,  there  were  no  palace  cars  to  set  us  down  in  the 
midst  of  the  lake  country,  nor  even  a  coach  to  carry  us  to  the 
interior,  but  instead  we  journeyed  in  a  chartered  rig,  from  Au 
Sable  Chasm  to  Wilmington  and  beyond.  If  you  will  come 
with  us  on  that  trip  we  will  show  you  a  section  delightfully 
wild  and  picturesque,  as  yet  only  partially  developed  and  not 
appreciated  at  half  its  true  worth  —  a  section  remarkable  for 
striking  features,  even  in  a  country  whose  untiring  charm  is 
its  variety;  its  strong  contrasts,  and  its  rapid  changes. 

Following  the  route  shown  in  gateway  No.  2,  we  were  in 
due  time  deposited  on  the  steps  of  the  old  Whiteface  Moun- 
tain House  at  Wilmington,  where  we  were  confronted  by  a 
big,  square-looking  fellow,  with  pants  in  boots  and  signs  of  fun 
in  his  clear,  blue  eye.     We  enquired  if  he  was  landlord. 

With  a  quizzical  look  down  at  his  working-clothes,  he  re- 
plied:  "Well,  I  don't  know.  It's  been  so  long  since  we  had 
company,  that  it  don't  pay  to  keep  a  landlord ;  but  you'd  better 
come  in."  So  we  entered,  and  were  soon  as  comfortable  and 
contented  as  a  good  supper  and  a  roaring  fire  could  make  us. 

Wilmington  gives  marked  evidence  of  former  prosperity, 
and,  at  some  past  time,  was  a  centre  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Now  it  is  a  little  hamlet,  combining  the  old  and  the 
new  picturesquely  enough,  prettily  located  on  the  west  branch 
of  the  Au  Sable  River,  where  it  flows  along  under  the  east  base 
of  Whiteface  Mountain. 


VIEWS  ON  THE  NEV  YORK  AND  CANADA  RAILROAD 


SUMMIT   OF    WHITEFACH    MOUNTAIN. 


CHAPTER  V. 


OLD  WHITEFACE. 


UT  off  from  its  kindred  on  the  south  by 
Wilmington  Notch,  and  on  the  north  by 
one  almost  as  deep,  pyramidal  in  form, 
although  somewhat  the  longest  north  and 
south,  its  base  clothed  in  inky  spruce  and 
balsams,  its  naked  granite  head  among  the 
clouds  "  Old  Whiteface "  stands  one  of 
the  finest  mountain  peaks  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks. 

"  I'll  tell  you  what  I'll  do,"  said  our  warm- 
hearted landlord  at  night  as  we  sat  discuss- 
ing pro  and  con  the  ascent  of  "Old  White- 
face,"  "  if  you  will  stay  over  I  will  take  you 
two  miles  up  the  mountain  —  as  far  as  we  can  conveniently 
set  with  a  wagon — and  send  a  guide  to  the  top  with  you,  ior 


I 


Old  Whitefacb.  65 

It's  the  grmndcst  mountain  view  to  be  had  in  the  Aditondacks, 
and  I  don't  want  you  to  go  away  without  seeing  it"  Of 
':ourse  we  accepted,  only  insisting  that  he  go  with  us.  So  at 
nine  in  the  morning,  with  the  thermometer  at  48,  we  set  out 
up  the  mountains ;  we  left  the  wagon  which  returned  to  the 
hotel,  with  instructions  to  meet  us  at  sunset,  and  proceeded 
up  the  bridle  path  toward  the  summit,  traveling  about  a  mile 
westerly  then  turning  toward  the  south,  entered  the  standing 
timber  and  began  the  ascent  in  earnest. 

At  the  end  of  a  half  hour  we  had  gone  another  mile  and  came 
out  on  an  open  space  called  "Lookout  Point,"  half  way  to 
the  summit  Here  the  blueberries  grew  thick,  and  we  scraped 
whole  handfuls  from  the  bushes  and  ate  them  —  in  ten  minutes 
gathering  all  we  cared  for.  Then  we  resumed  our  course  and 
pressed  upward  through  the  dark  woods,  scrambling  up  the 
steep  path  where  great  rocks  alternated  with  pools  of  black 
muck  in  a  semi-liquid'state,  trodden  and  mixed  by  horses' feet, 
and  we  wondered  that  horses  could  climb  such  places  with  a 
hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  pounds  of  humanity  on  their 
back ;  but  Baldwin  said  to  his  knowledge  not  an  accident 
further  than  being  lost  for  a  night,  ever  happened  on  the 
mountain.  We  reached  the  shanty,  three-fourths  ot  a  mile 
from  the  summit,  a  little  past  noon,  and  here  occurred  a  des- 
oerate  encounter  between  three  men  on  the  one  side  and  six 
slices  of  bread  and  butter,  supported  by  other  fixtures,  on  the 
other,  which  resulted  in  their  total  defeat  and  destruction. 

The  shanty  is  in  a  small  clearing,  at  the  highest  point  where 
wood  and  water  can  be  obtained,  has  log  sides,  with  a  root, 
part  canvass,  part  bark.  Within  is  a  parlor  and  cook  stove  ; 
along  one  side,  raised  a  little  above  the  floor,  a  platform  that 
looked  as  though  it  might  do  service  as  Brigham  Young's 
family  bedstead,  was  covered  with  spruce  and  hemlock 
branches,  and  blankets.  A  sort  of  cross  between  a  stairway 
and  ladder  led  up  to  the  ladies'  dormitory  under  the  sharp 
roof,  through  which  the  stars  could  peep  in  places.  Here,  in 
Ihe  bed  which  was  over  nearly  the  entire  floor,  '•  permiscus 
like,"  we  could  discover  signs  of  the  tender  feeling  with  which 
the  fair  sex  was  regarded  —  in  the  springy  moss  and  fine  leaves 
^hich  had  been  stripped  from  the  hemlock  branches,  on  wbfcb 


66 


The  Adirondacks. 


the  lords  ot  creation  slept  down  below.  The  pipe  from  the 
■tove  in  the  lower  room,  where  a  fire  can  be  kept  roaring  all 
night,  passed  up  through  this  one,  and  altogether  it  was  a 
cosy,  jolly,  fun-provoking  place  to  be  m,  where,  as  our  guide 
remarked,  "  if  there  was  any  fun  in  a  fellow  it  was  going  to 
show  itself."  We,  in  imitation  of  others  before  us  who  had 
written  their  names  in  every  conceivable  and  reachable  place 
in  the  building,  registered  and  proceeded  on  our  way  to  th» 
summit. 


•*  Pretty  rough  work,"  said  Baldwin,  "  but  hundreds  of  people 
come  up  every  year  and  ride  clear  to  the  top.  A  big  doctor 
came  here  from  Buffalo  with  his  family  and  a  four-horse  team 
that  he  had  been  all  over  the  country  with  —  a  very  valuable 
team,  too,  —  and  when  he  said  he  was  going  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  with  them  I  tried  to  stop  him,  and  I  offered  to  get 
horses  that  were  accustomed  to  the  road  for  nothing,  rather 
than  have  him  hurt  his,  but  no ;  '  other  horses  have  been 
there,  have  they  not?'  said  he,  and  when  I  told  him  yes,  he 
said,  •  then  mine  can  go ; '  so  he  took  them  out  of  the 
harness  and  put  his  wife,  a  woman  that  would  weigh  two 
hundred,  on  the  firiest  one  of  the  lot  and  started,  and  I  felt 
bad  for  I  knew  something  would  happen,  and  they  rode  those  • 

horses  to  the  very  top  and  just  turned  around  and  " .     We 

gazed  down  over  the  fearful  precipice  at  our  feet  while  out 
hearts  seemed  to  cease  their  motion  as  he  slowly  concluded  — 
'•  and  rode  down  again  without  getting  a  scratch  1  ** 


Old  Wiiiteface.  67 

"But  how  can  ladies  manage  to  keep  on  the  horses'  backs, 
irhere  it  seems  almost  impossible  for  the  horse  to  get  along 
alone?" 

**  Manage!"  said  he,  "  like  a  man,  of  course,  astride,  and  it 
makes  me  laugh  to  see  them  sometimes  when  they  find  that 
they've  got  to  go  in  that  way.  So  modest  when  they  start, 
some  of  them,  that  they  are  dreadfully  afraid  of  showing  their 
feet,  but  they  soon  get  over  that  and  come  down  with  colors 
flying.  I  don't  know  as  they  would  ever  have  done  it  if 
Mrs.  Murray,  wife  of  the  Rev.  Adirondack  Murray,  hadn't  set 
the  fashion  herself  She's  a  dashing,  independent  sort  ol 
woman,  who  don't  let  thoughts  of  what  people  may  say  inter- 
fere with  her  plans.  Well,  after  Mrs.  Murray  set  the  example, 
we  had  no  difficulty,  and  now  lots  of  them  go  up  in  that  way; 
as,  with  the  horses  we  have  and  a  guide  at  their  sides,  there 
is  not  the  slightest  danger  in  making  the  ascent."  The  regu- 
lar price  for  a  horse  and  guide  is  six  dollars,  or  four  dollars  for 
the  horse  alone ;  but  unless  a  lady  is  perfectly  at  home  in  the 
saddle,  she  will  be  apt  to  wish  she  was  "  at  home  "  in  reality. 
It  is  needless  to  add  that  the  Turkish  costume  is  considered 
the  most  appropriate  for  this  style  of  amusement. 

All  the  way  up  we  had  noticed  fresh  tracks  maae  by  three 
several  persons  —  one,  a  man's,  which  also  appeared  to  have 
descended,  and  two  evidently  made  by  ladies — one  short  and 
thick,  the  other  slender  and  dainty  in  its  manner  of  touching 
the  ground.  It  had  been  a  matter  of  wonderment  to  us,  and 
••  Little  Foot-prints,"  as  we  styled  the  owner  of  the  dainty 
stepping  foot,  was  a  constantly  recurring  subject  of  specula- 
tion. "Where  is  Little  Foot-prints?  who  is  she?  is  she 
pretty?  —  of  course.  And  the  other — why  are  they  appar- 
ently alone,  when  the  Big  Foot  has  gone  back  ?  "  questions 
that  we  hoped  soon  to  solve ;  questions  that  preyed  upon  the 
Professor,  as  the  oft-twirled  moustache  and  passage  of  hia 
fingers  through  his  auburn  locks  would  seem  to  indicate.  Ot 
course  it  was  nothing  to  me,  and  only  out  of  mere  curiosity 
that  I  managed  to  reach  the  top  first,  but  "where  was  Little 
Foot-prints  ?  "  Not  there,  certainly,  for  the  summit,  the  sides 
and  the  backbone  of  the  mountain  up  over  which  we  had 
passed  were  primeval,  unyielding  rock     They  had  not  r©» 


The  Adirondacks. 

turned  by  the  path ;  they  might  have  plunged  down  the  sides 
in  Bome  other  direction,  but  the  feeling  took  possession  of  us 
that  our  "  Little  Foot-pnnts  "  had  taken  wings  and  flown  up 
among  the  angels,  just  a  little  higher  than  where  we  stood. 

How  can  I  describe  it  —  the  wonderful  beauty  of  the  day, 
the  clear,  crisp  atmosphere  surrounding  us  —  the  great  pur-  i 
ple-rimmed  basin,  in  the  center  of  which,  lifted  up  on  a  pin-  it 
nacle,  we  stood,  while  the  mighty,  sweeping  dome  of  heaven  | 
came  down  all  around  and  blended  with  the  mountain  edges.  ^ 
A  keen,  wintry  blast  sweeping  past,  penetrating  even  through  ,, 
the  heavy  blankets  that  we  had  brought  from  the  house  below ;  i 
the  bits  of  ground  frozen  nearly  as  hard  as  the  rock  on  which  1 
they  rested;  every  stunted  bush  and  blade  of  coarse  grass  ; 
which  clung  to  the  wind-swept  summit  gleaming  with  frost 
needles  and  sparkling  like  spun  glass  in  the  bright  sunshine    i\ 
while  below,  the  country  lay  spread  out  in  the  glory  of  its 
autumnal  dress,  its  gold  and  crimson,  brown  and  green,  its  I 
pearly  lakes  and  threads  of  silver,  its  purple  hills  and  mellow  i 
distance,  over  which  lay  a  mantle  of  tender  blue  haze,  seen  i 
only  in  autumn  —  not  smoke  —  but  something  that  suggests  f 
the  thought  of  the  myriad  millions  of  pale,  sweet  ghosts  ol 
falling  leaves  and  dying  flowers.    Back  toward  the  north  ran 
the  sharp  ridge  up  which  we  had  toiled,  naked  and  dark  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  then  a  stunted  growth  of  balsams  gnarled 
and  twisted ;  a  few  live  branches  low  down  at  the  surface,  the 
tops  dead  and  dry ;  then,  as  we  look  further  the  spruce  and 
cedar  grow  dark  and  thick  down  to  the  belts  of  birches  and 
maples  below.    Away  oflf  to  the  east  is  Lake  Champlain,  lost 
in  the  mist  toward  tlie  north,  shut  in  by  the  Green  Mountains, 
and  beyond,  the  white  hills  of  old   New  England.    To  the 
south  lay  the  great  peaks  of  the  Adirondacks.     "  Haystack,' 
"  Marcy  "  — the  clond-piercer  of  the  Indians,  '*  Colden,"  with 
the  white  track  of  tJie  avalanche  down  its  side,  and  others  — 
a  long  line  of  giants,  their  dark  blue  crests  rising  like  ocean 
billows  —  grand  and  changeless  in  their  mighty  forms,  over- 
whelming in  their  sublimity. 

Away  toward  the  west  a  lower  set  of  mountain  waves  are 
seen,  over  a  comparatively  level  tract  of  country  cut  and  out- 
lined with  a  confused  network  of  ponds  and  streams,  with 


Old  Wihteface.  69 

nere  and  there  a  broad,  shining  sheet  of  water ;  Lake  Placid 
at  our  feet,  the  Saranacs  and  Big  Tupper's  farther  away,  and  a 
host  of  others,  too  numerous  to  mention,  while  over  the  pur- 
ple rocky  rim  of  the  mountains  to  the  north  stretched  the 
faint  blue  of  the  level  Canadas,  through  which  was  the  silvery 
gleam  of  the  mighty  St.  Lawrence. 

Turning  once  more  toward  the  grand  Indian  pass  we  see 
the  fields  of  North  Elba,  and  —  a  mere  speck  —  the  home  and 
resting  Dlace  of  old  John  Brown.  From  the  pass  above,  the 
Ausable  rises  and  comes  toward  us  ;  here  and  there  we  catch 
glimpses  of  it,  a  mere  thread,  through  Wilmington  Notch, 
under  the  great  wall,  through  the  natural  flume  at  our  feet, 
past  the  little  village  and  away  to  Keeseville  beyond  which  it 
plunges  down  over  the  rocks  at  Birmingham,  and  finds  its 
way  out  through  the  dark  chasm  to  Lake  Champlain. 

Seventy  years  ago  an  avalanche  of  loose  stones  and  the 
gathered  moss  and  vegetable  deposit  of  ages  went  down  the 
western  slope  of  this  mountain  and  the  exposed  surface, 
whiter  than  the  rest,  is  said  to  have  given  it  the  name  ;  but 
there  is  a  more  reasonable  theory,  as  the  line  can  hardly  be 
noticed  unless  covered  with  snow,  that  the  old  giant's  naked 
brow,  for  so  long  a  period  covered  with  snow,  suggested  the 
name  of  "  Old  Whiteface."  On  the  topmost  point,  firmly  at- 
tached to  the  rock,  we  found  the  card  of  the  chief  of  the  Adi- 
rondack Survey,  a  metallic  disk  with  this  inscription  :  "White- 
face  Mountain,  Station  No.  2.  Verplanck  Colvin,  S.  N.  Y. 
Adirondack  Survey,  1872."  All  around,  the  surface  of  the 
rock  was  scarred  and  chiseled  with  the  names  of  former  visit- 
ors while  on  one,  cut  deep  and  clear,  were  the  words, 

"Thanks  be  to  God  for  the  mountains !" 
ana  every  heart  joined  with  that  grand  old  mountain  peak  in 
saying,  "  thanks  be  to  God  for  the  mountams."  A  great,  dark, 
litchen-covered,  chaotic  mass  of  broken  rock  forms  the  sum- 
mit ;  to  the  north  and  south  the  ascent  is  gradual,  but  on 
either  side  it  is  almost  perpendicular  for  many  feet,  then  curves 
outward  and  is  covered  by  the  dark  evergreens.  We  gazed 
town  from  the  dizzy  height, 

"  We  heard  the  troubled  flow 
Of  the  dark  olive  depths  of  pinet,  resounding 
A  thousand  feet  below." 


70 


The  Adirondacks. 


We  marked  our  homeward  course  through  the  glistening 
lakes,  away  around  the  blue  serrated  summit  of  Mount  Sew- 
ard, then  started  on  our  descent.  A  sudden  exclamation  from 
our  guide  brought  us  to  his  side,  where  he  was  inspecting 
what  we  took  to  be  the  track  of  a  naked  foot. 

"  What  is  it  ?  " 

"  A  bar  —  been  here  since  we  went  up  —  going  down,  proba- 
bly, to  the  blueberry  patch.    We  may  see  him  if  we  go  careful." 

And  carefully  we  went,  following  the  track  along  out  to  the 
blueberry  patch,  and  there  we  lost  it  We  waited,  watched 
and  ate  berries  until  the  shadow  of  the  mountain  like  a  great 
pyramid  reached  out  and  touched  the  little  village ;  then  we 
started. 

"  Maybe  you'd  better  lead,"  said  Baldwin,  making  a  desper 
ate  etfort  to  keep  his  feet  from  getting  the  advantage  of  him, 
while  an  ax,  tin  pail  and  sundry  other  articles  jingled  and 
thumped  about  on  every  side.  "  It  bothers  me  to  have  folks 
treading  on  my  heels."  So  lead  we  did  —  the  result  of  which 
may  be  inferred  from  a  remark  he  was  overheard  to  make  that 
night,  to  the  effect  that  it  beat  somethin-or-other  how  tnem 
fellows  came  down  that  mountain,  "and,"  said  he,  "when  I'd 
get  some  ways  behind  I'd  drop  into  a  dog  trot  to  catch  up, 
then  I'd  hear  that  little  fellow  snicker  and  the  long-legged 
one  would  c^ver  six  feet  at  a  step." 


CHAPTER  VI. 


"ON  THE  ROAD.' 


'*Joha  Urown'a  body  Ues  a-moulderinsr  in  the  gTmT% 
And  hit  soul  goes  inarching  on."  —  Old  S»nf, 

HE  morning  following  our  ascent  of  old  White 
face,  he  had  draped  his  shoulders  in  a  mantle 
of  mist,  modestly  hiding  his  face  in  the  clouds, 
and  although  the  sun  came  out  toward  noon 
and  the  clouds  went  scurrying  across  the  sky 
like  a  routed  army  before  the  advance  of  an 
enemy,  a  legion  still  hung  around  his  iron 
head,  skulked  in  the  rents  and  hollows  of  his 
furrowed  side  and  crowded  close  under  the 
lee  of  his  protecting  form.  It  was  interesting 
to  watch  this  vast  host  —  this  wnue-robed 
army  of  the  sky  — seeming  almost  human  in 
its  maneuverings  to  gain  a  place  of  safety 
from  the  fierce  west  winds  which  tore  it  into  fragments  and 
stiungit  out  into  shreds,  and  rolled  it  up  into  great  balls  to 
be  dashed  against  the  mountain,  and  separating,  pass  on  either 
side  to  wheel  into  line  beyond,  or  entering  the  surface  current 
mount  up  the  steep,  and  shooting  out  over  the  sharp  crest, 
curl  downward  into  the  billowy  mass  below,  where  it  clung 
like  some  tattered  signal  of  distress,  its  ragged,  wind-whipped 
end  stretching  away  out  toward  the  east. 

After  dinner  we  took  a  carriage,  sandwitched  the  driver  be- 
tween us,  and  started  for  North  Elba.  Att.  Clyne  was  the 
driver's  name,  a  pleasant  young  fellow,  wb3  had  rather  hear 
or  tell  a  good  story  than  to  eat,  and  that  is  saying  a  good  deal 
for  him.  He  inaugurated  a  series  by  telling  of  the  wonderful 
speed  of  the  particular  beast  behind  which  we  were  riding, 
the  truth  of  which  he  would  demonstrate  when  we  arrived  «i 


72  The  Adirondacks. 

a  suitable  piece  of  road.  We  never  came  to  that  suitable 
piece.  Once  we  thought  we  had,  and  he  encouraged  her  a 
little  with  the  whip.  She  felt  encouraged  for  about  ten  feet, 
and  then  rested  while  we  got  out  and  strapped  a  couple  ol 
pieces  of  whiffletree  together  which  we  had  discovered  dang- 
ling at  her  feet ,  then  we  went  ahead  carefully.  About  two 
miles  south  of  Wilmington  is  the  natural  flume,  a  long  furrow 
through  the  rock  like  the  track  of  a  giant  plowshare,  through 
which  the  water  shoots  like  a  flash  of  light  Some  call  it  a 
wonder ;  but,  with  the  fellow  at  Niagara,  we  might  say  "  it 
would  be  a  greater  wonder  if  the  water  didn't  come  down,  it 
comes  so  easy."  Our  road  still  led  up  along  the  river,  now 
flashing  out  broad  in  the  sunlight  as  it  rippled  over  the  stones, 
now  quiet,  and  then  plunging  over  the  "  big  falls  "  seeming  to 
lose  itself  in  the  cavernous  depths  below. 

Wilmington  Pass  is  the  natural  gateway  to  North  Elba 
from  the  north,  a  notch  cut  out  of  the  mountain,  through 
which  the  west  branch  of  the  Ausable  flows,  it  is  one  of  the 
finest,  if  not  the  finest,  combination  of  river,  rock  and  moun- 
tain scenery  to  be  found  in  the  Adirondacks,  and  was  especi- 
ally beautiful  in  its  autumn  dress,  as  we  saw  it  on  that  early 
October  day.  The  road  ran  along  up  by  the  river,  fringed  and 
canopied  by  the  crimson  and  yellow  maples,  the  great,  ragged, 
rough-aimed  birches,  the  cone-shaped  balsam,  the  dainty- 
limbed  tamarack  and  scarlet-berried  mountain  ash.  The  pasfl 
seems  to  have  been  caused  by  some  mighty  power  that  turn- 
ing neither  to  the  right  nor  left,  struck  this  mountain  range 
and  passed  through  and  onward,  carrying  every  thing  before 
it  out  on  the  plain  beyond,  leaving  the  broken  walls  on  either 
side  to  frown  down  on  the  torn  rocks  below,  and,  when  the 
tempest  raged,  to  thunder  back  defiance  at  each  other.  Then 
time  covered  the  rocks  with  mosses,  the  floods  brought 
rich  offerings  and  dropped  them  in  the  bottom-land,  trees 
sprang  up  and  others  found  lodgment  in  the  cleft  rocks,  and 
now  all  is  covered  with  nature's  mantle.  No,  not  all,  for  at 
our  left,  the  naked  rock  rises  up,  straight  up,  fully  five  hun- 
dred feet,  at  places  even  projecting  beyond  its  base  and  seem- 
ing ready  to  fall  as  great  masses  have  already  fallen,  through 
^nd  around  which  the  road  p'oes,  at  times  with  barely  suffic'- 


On  the  ivoad. 


ent  room  to  pass  between  them  and  the  narrow,  swift-nivming 
river  on  the  other  side.  Across  the  river  at  our  right  is  a 
narrow  fringe  of  bottom-land  trees,  then  rising,  precipice 
above  precipice,  and  cliff  on  cliff,  is  Old  Whiteface,  his  feet 

washed  by  the  river,  his  head  still  among  the  clouds,  and . 

There  stands  that  fast  beast  out  to  the  full  extent  of  the  reins, 
with  the  pieces  of  broken  whifHetree  on  either  side. 

"  Gr  —  ROOP  !  "  The  sound  was  richly  musical  and  unmis- 
takably African  for  "  get-up."  We  were  resting,  if  you  please, 
three  of  us  in  a  buggy,  right  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  the 
Professor  and  I  rapturously  enjoying  the  lovely  scenery  and 
mnocently  talking  about  subjects  entirely  foreign  to  the  situ- 
ation, while  "  Att."  sat  squeezed  in  between  us,  holding  on  to 
one  end  of  the  reins  and  using  some  very  choice  language  in 
regard  to  the  mare  who  stood  out  at  the  other,  looking  around 
occasionally  to  see  why  some  one  didn't  make  a  move  to  get 
her  back  where  she  belonged. 

"  Gr-roop ! "  Letters  cannot  express  the  sound.  The 
nearest  approach  to  it  is  when  some  sea-sick  mortal  rushes  to 
the  vessel's  side  and  vainly  attempts  to  give  up  his  own  din- 
ner to  the  fishes.  We  got  out  and  tied  the  traces  back  to  the 
cross-bar,  put  the  broken  whiflietree  in  the  wagon  and  sent 
"Att."  forward  to  make  repairs. 

"  Gr-roop  ! "  whack  /  a  paii 
of  sorry-looking  objects  ap- 
peared over  the  brow  of  a 
little  knoll  behind  us,  rising 
slowly  as  rises  the  stately 
ship  above  the  watery  hori- 
zon, first  two  pairs  of  hairy 
ears,  then  a  pair  of  venera- 
ble heads  swaying  from  side 
to  side,  then  their  entire 
forms  loomed  above  the 
sandy  horizon,  and  we  looked 
"  ^'" """"*'•"  up  through  a  swaying  thicket 

of  Icjfs  and  straps  and  wooden  bar* 


74  The  Adirondacks. 

"Camels,  by  darn  1 "  said  the  Professor  excitedly,  catching 
■If^ht  of  what  appeared  to  be  the  hump  peculiar  to  the  "ship 
Df  the  desert" 

No,  not  camels.  Professor,  but  ancient  specimens  of  horse 
architecture;  style,  gothic,  with  a  tendency  toward  many 
gables,  and  that  which  you  think  the  hump  is  a  French  roof 
of  buffalo  skin  to  protect  them,  or  the  harness,  or  both,  from 
the  rain.  Framed  in  nature's  noblest  mold  tha«p  beasts  un- 
doubtedly were ;  but  the  party  who  supplied  the  flesh  wat 
apparently  short  of  material,  or  else  they  were  clothed  in 
their  summer  suit.  Their  harness  fenced  them  in  and  bound 
them  round  about  suggesting  suspicion  of  a  latent  fire  within 
that  might,  if  aroused,  burst  forth  and  rend  straps  of  an 
ordinary  width,  as  the  lightning  shivers  the  mighty  oak. — 
Straps  ?  they  crossed  and  covered  those  noble  animals  until 
they  looked  like  a  railroad  map  of  Massachusetts,  and  at 
every  crossing  was  a  big  patch  of  buffalo  skin.  They  looked 
kindly  at  us,  with  eyes  out  of  which  all  coltish  frivolity  had 
long  since  flown.  Then  the  expression  seemed  to  change  to 
one  of  mild  surprise  as  the  wagon  gently  pressed  against  them 
and  they  found  it  easier  to  trot  down  the  hill  than  to  hold 
back.  As  they  forged  up  alongside  they  stopped.  They  had 
evidently  been  driven  by  a  sewing  machine  agent  or  some 
candidate  for  oflSce,  and  thought  they  must  stop  for  every 
man  they  saw.  We  instantly  propounded  the  following  co- 
nundrum to  the  driver : 

"Why  can't  we  ride  in  that  extra  seat?  " 

He  gave  it  up  at  once  and  we  got  aboard  the  buckboard. 
"Gr-roop  I "  whack  I  we  were  under  way.  The  driver  was  a 
good-looking  fellow,  intelligent,  well-informed,  and  decidedly 
attractive  in  his  way,  even  if  his  skin  was  a  few  shades  darker 
than  regulation  and  his  hair  unexplorabie  in  its  kinkiness. 
We  inquired  his  destination  and  he  told  us  Nuth  Elba.  As 
St.  Helena  suggests  the  first  Napoleon,  so  Noit»4  Elba  brings 
with  it  the  picture  of  an  old  man  with  white  hair  and  flowing 
^hite  beard,  crazy  some  said,  but  with  wonderful  method  in 
his  madness ;  a  carpet-bagger  in  Kansas  where  he  took  an 
active  part  in  the  troubles  which  in  1856  assumed  the  formid- 
able proportions  of  a  civil  war ;  the  "  Old  man  of  Osawat<>. 


John  Brown. 


inie,"  whose  presence  was  marked  by  dissensions  a»d  blood- 
•bed  ;  who  urged  men  on  to  murder  in  the  name  of  freedom 

and  read  his  Bible  all  the 
time-  who  in  1859,  with  a 
mere  handful  of  men, 
struck  the  first  hard  blow 
at  the  institution  of  slavery 
in  the  South,  and  which, 
probably,  more  than  the 
eloquence  of  all  the  Phil- 
lips and  Sumners  in  the 
world,  tended  to  precipi- 
tate the  war  by  which, 
through  rivers  ot  blood, 
four  million  slaves  went 
free.  He  was  called  "a 
visionary,"  "an  old  fool," 
but  men  who  have  given 
the  subject  study  say  that 
it  was  the  best  organized 
^  -^  conspiracy  that  ever  failed, 

cZ-^^A^yiy    (/7j^/rUy;ny»  reaching  out  as  it  did  over 

the  entire  Southern  States. 
The  blow  struck  at  Harper's  Ferry  was  to  be  the  signal  for  a 
general  uprising  of  the  blacks,  but  he  misjudged  his  men 
and  —  failed. 

A  fa">atic  he  undoubtedly  was.  He  seemed  to  feel  that 
he  was  specially  called  not  only  to  free  but  to  educate  the 
blacks.  He  secured  a  large  tract  of  land  here  at  North 
Elba  to  demonstrate  his  theory,  and  had  established  quite  a 
colony.  Then  feeling  that  the  time  had  come,  he,  with  three 
sons,  a  son-in-law  and  a  few  others  who  had  become  converted 
to  his  belief—  twenty-two  in  all  —  played  at  Harper's  Ferry  — 
and  lost.  They  were  soon  surrounded,  and  the  negroes,  to 
whom  they  trusted  so  much,  let  them  fight  it  out  alone.  One 
son  escaped,  another  was  shot  dead,  and  still  another  lay 
dying  by  his  side,  while  the  old  man  fought  on ;  and  at  last, 
when  overpowered  and  compelled  to  surrender,  he  locked  the 
•ccrets  he  possessed  in  his  breast  that  his  friends  might  not 


76  The  Adirondacks. 

Buffer,  and  died  as  he  had  lived,  firm  in  the  faith  that  iw  some 
manner  he  was  the  divinely  appointed  agent  who  was  to  lead 
his  children  out  of  the  land  of  bondage.  He  murmured  not 
against  the  people  for  whom  he  suffered,  who  had  deserted 
him  iB  his  direst  need,  but  stopped  to  kiss  a  little  negro  baby 
on  his  way  to  the  scaffold,  seeming  to  show  by  the  act,  how 
willingly  he  laid  down  his  life  for  them  and  the  cause  he  had 
espoused.* 
Then  the  body  of  old  John  Brown,  the  convicted  murderei 

•  -this  felon  with  the  mark  of  the  hangman's  rope  on  his 
neck  — was  taken  down  from  the  gallows  and  borne  through 
the  country  whose  laws  he  had  transgressed,  while  bells  tolled 
and  cities  were  draped  in  mourning  for  his  sake,  to  his  old 
home  among  the  mountains —  For  he  had  said :  "  When  I  die, 
bury  me  by  the  big  rock  where  I  love  to  uil  and  read  the  word 
of  God,"  and  there,  one  terribly  cold  day  in  bleak  Decembei, 
a  few  who  had  loved  the  old  man,  laid  his  body  and  covered 
it  up  in  the  frozen  ground, 

**  And  his  Boul  kom  marohlag  on." 

Yes,  the  spirit  of  old  John  Brown  goes  marching  on,  and 
with  it,  keeping  time  to  the  musiC  of  the  old  song,  whole 
armies  marched  to  battle,  and  with  the  victory  came  that  for 
which  the  old  man  worked  and  died. 

"Gr-roop  !  "  whack  I  Back  to  the  reality  of  a  darkey  belab- 
oring a  pair  of  absent-minded  and  almost  absent-bodied 
horses,  and  they  supremely  unconscious  of  the  fact.  We  ven- 
tured to  inquire  if  our  driver  was  one  of  John  Brown's  pet 
lambs,  and  he  with,  as  Mrs.  Partington  would  say,  considerable 
"asparagrass,"  gave  us  to  understand  that  he  was  not. 

" He  established  a  colony  of  blacks  up  here,  didn't  he?" 

"  Yes,  sah,  but  they  ain't  heah  now.  We  are  the  only  family 
of  colo'd  folks  in  town." 

"  Where  are  they  now  ?  " 

"  All  gone."  "  Gr-roop  I  "  whack  /  "  See  dat  hos8  —  Gone ; 
nobody  knows  where." 

"  How  many  were  there  of  them  ?  " 

"Mebbe  fifteen  or  twenty  families  —  don't  know,  didn't 
think  much  of  'em,*' 

*  See  Note  on  page  83. 


*'On  the  Road.'*  'j'j 

•'  Slaves,  I  suppose,  that  the  old  man  had  run  in  here  from 
the  South  ?  " 

"  No,  sah,  not  one.     G'lang !  " 

"  Where  did  he  get  them  ?  " 

"  Oh,  from  New  York,  mostly,  I  guess  —  not  much  account- 
Niggers.     Gr-roop  !  what  you  'bout?  " 

"  He  was  generally  considered  a  fanatic,  wasn't  he?* 

"  San  ?  " 

"You  thought  him  a  monomaniac?" 

"A  —  yes,  sah.    Ge-/<?«^,  thah." 

"  You  say  they  are  all  gone  ;  what  has  become  of  them  ?  " 

"  Don't  know ;  they  couldn't  make  a  livin'  heah ;  too  cold 
for  *em  ;  wa'nt  much  used  to  work,  I  guess,  an'  couldn't  stan' 
the  kind  they  got  heah.  Most  of  'em  was  barbers  an'  sich, 
who  thought  they  wouldn't  have  nothing  to  do  when  they 
come  heah,  an'  after  the  old  man  died  they  couldn't  get  along, 
so  they  dug  out,  some  of  'em,  an'  some  of  'em  died,  an*  one 
ole  niggah  froze  to  death." 

••  How  was  that  ?  " 

•*  Well,  he  went  out  huntin'  one  day  in  winter  and  got  lost 
in  the  woods.  He  had  a  compass  with  him,  but  when  they 
found  him  they  found  where  he  had  sat  down  on  a  log  and 
picked  his  cotnpass  to  pieces,  and  then  sot  there  till  he  froze  to 
death." 

It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  some  unused  to  the  woods  will 
become  so  effectually  "  turned  around  "  that  they  will  be  cer- 
tain that  something  is  the  matter  with  the  compass  to  make 
it  point  wrong,  and  even  distrust  the  sun  itself  if  it  happens 
t3be  in  a  different  position  from  that  which  they  think  it 
ought  to  be. 

"  Dem  bosses  gettin'  kinder  tired,"  remarked  their  master ; 
"  don't  get  along  over  this  road  very  fast." 

We  accepted  the  information  with  polite  incredulity,  as  is 
becoming  in  those  to  whom  an  unnoticed  fact  is  fiist  made 
apparent. 

"  Been  on  the  road  a  whole  week  — " 

" Getting  from  the  Forks?"  we  innocently  inquired. 

•*  Oh,  no,  sah ;  it's  only  fifteer^  miles  to  'Sable  Forks.     I'v* 


78  The  Adirondacks. 

been  canyin'  a  young  lady  'round  to  see  the  country,  driviu 
them  hosses  steady  for  a  week — " 

"Without  feeding?    Well,  now,  I  don't  wonder  they — " 

••  No,  no,  sah ;  I  feed  'em  reg'lar,  only  they  run  out  all  sum- 
mer an*  I  haven't  got  the  hard  feed  in  'em  yet.  They  ain't 
very  fat  just  now,  but  they's  good  hosses  for  all  that." 

Then  he  whipped  up  lively  for  two  or  three  rods  past  a 
hanty,  where  we  saw  Att.  busily  engaged  on  what  he  was 
pleased  to  call  a  whiffletree,  to  take  the  place  of  the  broken 
one.     Then   we  t-         good-bye  to  our  sable  friend  and  sat 
down  by  the  river  o  make  a  sketch  of  the  scene.    Feeble 

and  unsatisfactory,  perhaps,  but  a  shadow,  at  least  a  sugges- 
tion, of  foaming,  sparkling  sun-bright  water,  dancing  along 
among  the  stones ;  great,  shaggy,  yellow  birches,  golden 
beeches,  crimson  maples  and  tangled  depths  of  dark  green, 
while  through  openings  in  the  trees,  the  gray  cliff  showed 
giand  and  strong,  appearing  even  greater  than  itself  through 
the  tender  blue  of  the  luminous  haze  that  intervened.  Then 
we  all  got  in  behind  the  fast  horse  and  continued  on  our  way. 
Up  along  the  river,  through  a  dark,  level  tract,  almost  a  swamp, 
where  the  balsams  grew  thick  and  the  trailing  moss  hung  in 
masses  from  their  branches,  out  into  the  open  country,  where 
we  saw  pleasant  homes,  well  tilled  fields,  and  the  river  wind- 
ing smoothly  through  the  fertile  meadows  of  North  Elba. 

After  a  while  we  came  to  a  place  where  the  houses  were  a 
little  nearer  together  than  anywhere  else  along  the  road,  so 
we  called  that  North  Elba ;  but  the  population  is  rather  thin 
at  the  best,  and  the  country  to  a  great  extent  devoted  to 
grazing  and  grass  growing.  Winter  up  there  seems  to  be  the 
chief  season  and  never  disappoints  them  in  coming,  and  it  is 
seldom  that  a  year  passes  when  snow  is  not  seen  on  the  moun- 
tains near  by  every  month  excepting  August.  It  is  said  to  be 
very  healthy,  so  much  so  that  the  only  manner  of  taking  ofif 
is  a  habit  they  have  of  freezing  to  death,  and  when  this  hap- 
pens, as  is  often  the  case  in  summer,  they  do  not  find  it  nec- 
essary to  bu»y  them,  but  (if  Att.  is  to  be  believed)  simply  lay 
them  away  somewhere  exposed  to  the  pure  balsamic  air  and 
in  the  course  of  six  or  seven  weeks  they  moss  over.  John 
Brown  was  only  covered  up  as  a  protection  against  curiositY 


North  Elba. 


79 


hunters,  who  have  a  habit  of  chopping  oft  pieces  ot  fossils 
and  the  like,  and  who  have  broken  off  pieces  of  his  tombstone 
to  such  an  extent  that  it  had  to  be  boxed  up  to  keep  enough 
for  directory  purposes. 

Here  at  North  Elba  we  strike  the  post-road,  running  in  a 
north-westerly  direction  from  Elizabethtown  to  the  Saranac 
lakes.  Turning  to  the  right  we  proceeded  about  a  mile  until 
at  the  entrance  to  a  lane,  which  led  off  toward  the  south,  we 
saw  a  sign  bearing  the  inscription,  "  John  brown  Farm,  Re- 
freshments if  desired  "  (at  least  that  is  what  we  made  it  out  to 
be),  together  with  an  index  finger,  which  was  probably  painted 
by  some  admirer  of  the  old  man's  to  indicate  his  present  home, 
which  direction,  if  followed,  would  take  the  traveler  several 
degrees  higher  than  we  could  hope  to  get  in  the  Adirondacks, 
so  we  took  the  middle  course  —  the  lane  —  through  a  strip  ol 
woods,  into  the  open  field,  and  with  the  dusk  of  a  solemn  twi- 
light settling  down  over  us,  stood  by  the  great  rock  that  he 
loved  so  well  and  by  the  side  of  which,  at  his  own  requst,  he 
was  buried.     The  farm  is  shut  in  on  all  sides  by  the  thick 

forests  which,  on  the  south,  stretch 
5  away  in  unbroken  solitude  to  Indian 
Pass  and  the  great  peaks  of  the  Adi- 
rondacks. It  has  been  purchased  by 
a  company  at  whose  head  as  prime 
mover  stands  Kate  Field,  and  now 
held  as  a  sort  of  public  park  which 
is  annually  visited  by  hundreds  who, 
from  curiosity  or  reverence  for  the 
old  saint,  make  pilgrimages  to  their 
Mecca  ot  fanaticism.  The  house  and 
outbuildings  stand  in  the  open  field ; 
near  by  is  the  "  big  rock  "  and  grave, 
surrounded  by  a  rough  board  fence. 
As  we  entered  the  inclosure  a  lit- 
tle girl  came  out  to  remove  the  box 
from  the  headstone,  which  it  was 
found  necessary  to  cover  to  pre- 
serve from  the  destroying  hand  of 
the   relic-hunter.      Unlocking  and 


The  Adirondacks. 

temoving  the  box  we  saw  an  old  fashioned,  time-stained, 
granite-like  stone,  the  corners  chipped  and  broken  off,  and 
defaced  so  that  in  places  some  of  the  inscription  was  entirely 
gone.  The  upper  hall  was  in  the  quaint  characters  of  "  ye 
olden  time,"  the  lower  half  ot  a  recent  date ;  the  face  bore  the 
following  inscription : 

"  In  memory  of  Capt*»  John  Brow  Who  Died  At  New^'oik 
Sept'  Ye  3  1776  in  the  42  year  of  his  Age. 

"John  Brown  Born  May  9  1800  ivas  executed  at  Charleston, 
Va,  Bee.  2.  1859. 

"Oliver  Brown  Born  Mar.  9,  1839,  Tvas  Killed  at  Harpers 
Ferry  Oct.  17.  1859." 

On  the  back  was  the  following: 

"  In  memory  of  Frederick  son  of  John  and  Dianth  Brown, 
Born  Dec  21.  1830  and  murdered  at  Osawatomie,  Kansas,  Aug 
30.  1856  for  his  adherence  to  the  cause  of  Freedom." 

"  Watson  Brown,  Born  Oct  7, 1835  was  wounded  at  Haroers 
Ferry  &  died  Oct.  19,  1859."* 

The  grave  was  strewn  with  faded  flowers ;  a  florist's  leaden 
cross  and  crown  filled  with  the  same  lay  on  the  little  mound, 
and  under  it  the  body  of  Old  John  Brown,  alone!  of  his  large 
family  not  one  remaining  to  watch  over  him,  but  in  their  place 
strangers,  who  knew  less  of  the  old  man  than  we  who  lived 
far  away.  His  widow,  and  five  children  out  of  his  twenty,  are 
still  living,  it  is  said,  scattered  over  the  West,  some  of  them 
in  California,  some  nearer. 

The  stone  which  marks  the  head  of  his  grave  was  brought 
from  Massachusetts  and  placed  where  it  now  stands,  and  we 
were  told  that  the  "  Capin  "  John  Brown,  whose  name  heads 
the  list,  was  his  father,  in  which  case  (if  the  Captain  was  his 
father)  he  must  have  been  born  an  orphan,  as  this  one  died 
something  over  twenty-three  years  before  young  John  was 
born.  In  fact  there  must  be  some  mistake  about  it  somewhere, 
as  even  after  careful  investigation  there  we  could  not  find  out 
that  he  ever  had  a  father,  and  we  would  respectfully  suggest 
that  it  receive  the  attention  of  the  geneological  authors,  who, 
for  the  paltry  sura  of  a  hundred  dollars,  will  trace  any  man's 

*  See  note  '*  B  *'  on  paee  ta. 


**  Business/*  '  8i 

pedigree  back  in  an  unbroken  line  to  dukes  and  earls,  oi 
better  even  for  an  additional  inducement  We  passed  up  over 
the  big  rock  bearing  the  inscription,  cut  in  large  letters, 
••John  Brown,  1859,"  and  to  the  house  to  learn  something 
more  concerning  it. 

"  Don't  you  want  to  stay  all  night?  "  said  the  little  girl,  with 
m  eye  to  business. 

I  glanced  at  the  grave,  the  cold  rock  and  the  dreary,  dark- 
ening fields  around,  and  said  ''No."  Then  a  boy  member  ol 
the  family  cornered  Att,  and  eloquently  held  up  to  him  the 
advantages  of  seeing  the  **  stun  "  by  daylight ;  but  Att.  couldn't 
see  it.  Then  the  loquacious  lady  of  the  house  met  the  Profes- 
sor at  the  door  with  the  continuation  of  what  the  boy  and  girl 
had  started,  but  the  Professor  being  a  modest  man  threw  the 
responsibility  on  me,  and,  alas  !  all  /  wanted  was  information. 

"  We  can  accommodate  you  if  you  want  to  stay,"  said  she, 
bringing  the  register. 

We  said  no  again,  counted,  and  found  that  over  four  hundred 
besides  ourselves  had  registered  during  the  summer. 

"  Got  as  good  rooms  as  anybody,  and  every  body  who  has 
stopped  here  has  been  satisfied,"  continued  she  insinuatingly. 

"Almost  everybody  buy  these,"  said  the  little  girl,  produc- 
ing a  pair  of  stereographs  of  the  grave  and  rock  ;  **  fifty  cents 
for  the  two." 

We  meekly  produced  the  plaster  and  inquired  if  they  owned 
the  place. 

"  No,"  said  the  mother,  "  we've  only  been  here  a  little  wliile, 
but  take  in  strangers  who  want  to  stay  all  night  and — '* 

"  This  is  the  house  old  John  Brown  used  to  occupy,  isn't  it  ?  " 

"  Yes,  but  we've  fitted  it  up  new  some  since,  and  now  you 
can't  find  any  better  rooms  — " 

"  What  has  become  of  the  widow  and  children  ?  '* 

"I  don't  know  just  where,  but  out  West  somewhere,  I  be- 
ieve.    We  just  take  care  of  it  and  keep  folks  who — " 

**  It  seems  to  be  all  forests  to  the  south;  is  there  a  rath 
leading  from  here  to  the  Indian  Pass?" 

"Yes,  parties  often  come  through  it  and  stop  over  night  or 
get  something  to  eat ;  and  I  don't  like  to  say  it  myself,  but 
they  always  seem  satisfied  with  our  fare.     Now — " 


%2 


The  Adirondacks. 


*«  I  am  gathering  information  for  a  book  on  the  Adirondacks, 
which  is  my  reason  for  asking  so  many  questions.  Now  il 
you  have  any  interesting  information  concerning  this  locality 
I  will  be—" 

••  Well,  now,  I  think  if  people  knew  that  we  were  prepared 
to  keep  folks  and  was  always  prepared  to  get  up  meals,  with 
game  and  trout  always  on  hand,  they  would  come  more  ;  and 
it  you  will  just  state — " 

"All  right ;  ^<?^^ evening,  madam."  .  - 

"  We  should  like  to — folks  say  they  were  just  as  well  kept 
as  at  a  hotel — might  just  mention  trout — ^game  dinners — veni- 
son nearly  all  the  time — barn  room — people — haven't — found 
—  it —  out  —  much— yet— it's— getting  purty— dark— hadn't— 
you — better — stay.  And  as  we  passed  out  of  hearing  the 
thought  would  come  that  if  the  old  man  could  sleep  there  un- 
moved for  a  term  of  years,  the  angel  Gabriel  would  have  to 
be  in  pretty  good  lip  to  start  him  at  the  end  of  that  time. 

Note  A. — Hon.  Orange  Ferriss,  Commissioner  of  Claims  at  Washington,  is  authority 
for  the  statement  made  to  him  by  Senator  Pomeroy,  of  Kansas,  that  a  design  was 
formed  to  liberate  John  Brown,  in  pursuance  of  which  40  determined  men  met  at 
Charleston,  previous  to  the  execution,  thoroughly  organized  and  with  a  plan  which 
could  not  have  failed,  if  undertaken  under  the  existing  circumstances.  The  old  man 
was  notified  of  the  proposed  attempt,  but  the  spirit  which  had  actuated  him  all  along 
spoke  in  his  reply :  ^^  No ;  I  am  of  more  use  to  the  cause  now  dead  than  living  ";  and 
he  died  for  the  cause  when  life  could  have  been  hb  for  the  asking.  True  to  his  mem- 
ory is  the  State  which  has  placed  among  the  honored  ones  at  the  national  capital  the 
statue  of  the  champion  of  bleeding  Kansas — *^the  old  man  of  Ossawotomie.** 

Note  B. — The  body  of  Watson  Brown  was  brought  here  and  laid  near  the  father, 
October  xa,  1882,  after  remaining  unburied  for  nearly  twenty-three  years.  Considered 
by  the  authorities  of  Virginia  as  that  of  a  great  criminal,  it  was  given  after  death  to 
the  Medical  College  at  Winchester,  and  there  preserved  as  an  anatomical  specimen — 
the  mother  appealing  in  vain  for  the  privilege  of  giving  it  Christian  burial.  Later, 
when  the  town  was  occupied  by  the  Union  forces,  it  was  carried  off  by  an  Indiana 
surgeon,  and  kept  by  him  as  a  curiosity,  until  in  1882,  when  he  informed  the  survivors 
of  its  whereabouts  and  offered  to  restore  it  for  more  decent  interment.  From  Indiana 
the  poor  buffeted  body  went  to  the  mother  in  Ohio,  and  finally  here,  accompanied  by 
her,  the  brothers  Owen  and  John,  Jr.,  sister  and  widow,  and  was  finally  laid  to  rest 
beside  the  "  big  rock,"  where  he  had  played  as  a  boy,  while  learning  strange  theone* 
of  "  duty." 


CHAPTER  VII. 

North   Elba — Lake  Placid  —  The  St.  Regis  and 
Saranac  Regions. 

ORTH  ELBA  and  Lake  Placid  can  be  reached 
^^  from  Westport  and  Elizabethtown  by  stage 
daily  during  the  season  of  summer  travel.  The 
route  leads  through  a  country  beautiful  in  natu- 
ral attractions,  passing  at  the  south  base  of 
Hurricane  peak  and  through  the  northern  por- 
tion of  Keene  Valley. 

Keene  is  a  pretty  little  mountain-girded  ham- 
let, with  churches,  telegraph  and  telephone  of- 
fices, and  a  number  of  stores  of  a  sedate  and  peaceful  char- 
acter. The  great  mountains  are  on  the  east  and  west,  and  the 
east  branch  of  the  Au  Sable  River  runs  north  through  the 
picturesque  lowlands. 

The  Keene  Centre  House  furnishes  comfortable  accom- 
modations to  travelers  at  $2.50  per  day;  $10  to  $15  per  week, 
and  is  open  the  year  round. 

Cascade  Lakes,  formerly  known  as  Edmond's  Ponds,  are 
six  miles  west  of  Keene,  and  a  thousand  feet  higher ;  their  al- 
titude being  2,038  feet  above  tide.  The  road  follows  up  be- 
side the  brawling  stream  that  comes  through  a  notch  in  the 
west  mountains,  and  strikes  the  main  lake  at  its  east  end; 
thence  follows  along,  on  the  north  shore,  for  something  over 
a  mile,  when  the  west,  or  upper,  lake  is  reached.  Long  Pond 
Mountain  rises  abruptly  along  the  south  side,  and  Pitchofi 
Mountain  on  the  north ;  forming  a  narrow  defile,  where  the 
lake  lies  like  a  deep,  still  river,  while  the  road  holds  a  preca- 
rious footing  on  the  debris  that  has  fallen  from  the  cliffs  above. 
Originally  one  continuous  strip  of  water,  it  was  divided  into 


84  The  Adirondacks. 

two,  near  the  western  extremity,  by  a  deposit  evidently  brought 
down  by  the  stream  which  foams  over  the  precipitous  wall  on 
the  south,  in  a  succession  of  cascades,  a  thousand  feet  in  ex- 
tent—  in  the  rainy  season,  a  foaming  torrent;  in  time  of 
drouth,  a  mere  thread  of  silver  hanging  down  over  the  dark 
rocks. 

The  Cascade  Lake  House  stands  nearly  opposite,  on  the 
only  available  bit  of  land  found  in  this  part  of  the  notch.  It 
was  built  in  1878.  W.F.  &  S.H.  Weston,  proprietors,  P.  O.,  Cas- 
cadeville.  It  is  16  miles  from  this  point  to  Saranac  Lake, 
nine  miles  to  Lake  Placid,  and  26  miles  to  the  railroad  at 
Westport.  A  broad,  double  piazza  faces  south,  commanding 
a  view  up  and  down  the  two  lakes,  and  of  the  Cascade  across 
the  way;  affording  a  delightful  lounging  place  of  a  hot  day, 
when  the  wind,  which  is  seldom  still  here,  draws  up  or  down 
the  notch.  The  house  is  provided  with  fireplaces  and  is  com- 
fortable and  homelike.  The  post  ofhce  is  in  the  house,  as 
is  also  a  telegraph  office.  The  fare  is  excellent  and  abun- 
dant. Board,  $3.00  per  day;  $12  to  $17.50  per  week,  children 
under  10  years  of  age,  special.  Very  satisfactory  to  the 
transient  guest  are  the  dinners  served  here  at  $1.00.  For 
amusement,  space  has  been  found  for  an  enclosed  tennis 
court  out  under  the  trees ;  for  croquet,  another  bit  reclaimed 
near  the  house ;  and  still  other  space  for  a  bowling  alley  was 
made  close  by.  There  are  boats  for  guests  on  both  lakes; 
large,  comfortable  ones  for  the  timid ;  light,  guiding-boats  for 
the  hunter  and  fisherman.  These  lakes  are  owned  by  the 
proprietors  of  the  Cascade  Lake  House,  and  held  by  them 
exclusively  for  their  guests.  Originally  noted  for  its  big  trout, 
the  waters  have  been  stocked  and  the  fish  guarded,  until  now 
rod  and  fiy  are  certain  to  yield  good  sport  at  almost  any 
season.  To  the  lover  of  nature  in  her  wildest  shapes.,  nobler 
surroundings  can  hardly  be  imagined. 

West  of  Cascade  Lakes  the  road  climbs  up  out  of  the  notch, 
and  passing  through  occasional  clearings,  crosses  over  to  the 
more  level  land  of  North  Elba. 


North  Elba. 


85 


CASCADE    LAKH    HOUSE. 


The  Mountain  View  House  is  four  miles  west  of  the  Cas- 
cade Lakes.  It  commands  a  view  of  rare  beauty  and  extent, 
well  entitling  it  to  its  chosen  name.  This  house  is  perhaps 
better  known  as  Ames'.  It  has  earned  a  well-deserved  reputa- 
tion for  homelike  comfort  and  hospitality;  and  in  addition  to 
considerable  transient  custom,  gets  its  full  quota  of  those  who, 
for  sanitary  reasons,  seek  the  healing  air  of  this  high  plain. 
The  house  will  provide  for  35  guests.  The  accommodations 
are  good;  the  fare  wholesome  and  satisfying,  and  the  service 
very  pleasant  and  agreeable.  Open  from  July  ist  to  October 
ist.  Board,  $8  to  $12  per  week;  $2  per  day;  50  cents  per 
meal.  Telegraph  office  in  the  house.  P.  O.,  Cascade ville. 
Mrs.  M.  S.  Ames  &  Son,  proprietors. 

From  the  Mountain  View  House  it  is  22  miles  to  Eliza- 
bethtown,  stage  fare  $2.50.  To  Lake  Placid,  5  miles,  50 
cents.     To  Saranac  Lake,  13  miles,  $1.50. 

Toward  the  south,  the  slope  stretches  away  down  into  the 
valley,  then  rises  in  long,  sweeping  lines  to  the  foothills, 
thence  to  higher  ridges  and  peaks,  and  finally  to  the  grand 
heights  of  distant  Marcy,  the  highest  mountain  in  the  State, 
and    to    Mclntire,   but    little    less   in   stature,   the    central 


86  The  Adirondacks. 

figure  in  this  mountain  picture,  flanked  as  it  is  by  Wallface 
on  the  west  guarding  the  famous  Indian  Pass,  and  Mt.  Golden 
on  the  east  across  the  wild  notch  where  repose  the  waters 
of  Avalanch  Lake.  Throughout  all  this  extent  of  valley 
and  mountain  side,  the  forests  are  as  natur-e  left  them,  for 
the  rugged  nature  of  the  country  has  been  a  check  on  the 
lumberman's  avarice,  and  the  charcoal  burner  even  has 
stayed  his  devastating  hand. 

Outlined  against  the  broad  chest  of  Mclntire — in  reality 
a  spur  from  its  side — is  a  lower  summit,  Mt.  Jo,  sometimes 
called  the  Bear.  Between  this  and  the  main  mountain, 
more  than  2,000  feet  above  tide,  rests  Clear  Lake,  a  lovely 
sheet  of  water  of  about  30  acres  in  extent,  with  shores  of 
white  sand  and  a  bordea:  of  shrubs  and  trees  remaining  in 
all  their  native  beauty. 

Adirondack  Lodge  stands  here  on  the  east  shore  of  the 
lake,  almost  hidde-n  among  the  trees  save  where  its  high 
tower  lifts  its  head  above  their  tops.  This  is  a  new  de- 
parture in  rustic  architecture,  and  forms  one  of  the  most 
unique  and  picturesque  structures  in  the  country  ;  a  resort 
for  nature's  lovers,  where  nature's  handiwork  has  been 
respected.  It  is  of  logs,  96  feet  front,  36  feet  deep,  and 
three  stories  high,  with  a  rear  wing  of  almost  equal  size. 
Forming  a  part  of  the  building  is  a  substantial  tower  also  of 
logs,  rising  above  the  tree  tops  and  affording  such  a  view  as 
can  be  found  at  no  other  house  in  the  Adirondacks,  for 
with  a  widely  extended  vision,  not  a  sign  of  civilization  can 
be  discerned.  A  broad  piazza  surrounds  the  lower  portion 
of  the  house,  its  upper  deck  reached  from  the  rooms  above 
or  by  rustic  outside  stairs.  Everything  about  the  house  or 
grounds  evinces  the  cultivated  taste  of  the  owner,  for  the 
same  sentiment  that  protected  hoary  tree  and  graceful  shrub 
alike,  made  cunning  joints  among  the  logs,  and  left  their 
rugged  bark  intact  so  that  every  pilaster,  balustrade  or  rail- 
ing is  still  clothed  in  the  rich  brown  covering  that  nature 
gave  it.     Within,  the  same  good  taste  prevails.     The  walls 


88  The  Adirondacks. 


I 


are  plastered,  to  be  sure,  and  noise-deadened,  but  paint  and 
Brussels  carpeting  are  tabooed  as  not  in  keeping  with  the 
place,  tlie  furniture  hard  wood,  plain  and  substantial 
Fireplaces  make  the  principal  rooms  comfortable  on  occa- 
sion. An  electric  annunciator  puts  sleeping  rooms  and 
office  in  communication.  The  beds  are  of  the  best.  The 
windows  are  large  single  panes  of  plate  glass  in  swinging 
sash.  A  well  at  the  door  with  old-fashioned  wheel  and 
bucket  furnishes  the  best  tonic  to  be  found  here  or  any- 
where else.  A  lawn  tennis  and  croquet  ground  in  an 
opening  near  the  lake  ;  swings  and  arbors  among  the  trees, 
and  boats  on  the  water  afford  means  of  quiet  amusement. 
There  are  trails  to  the  summit  of  neighboring  mountains  for 
those  who  favor  long  tramps,  and  shorter  walks  for  those  less 
robust.  To  the  top  of  Marcy  is  7  J  miles.  Top  of  Mclntyre,4j. 
To  Avalanch  Lake,  5  miles.  To  Indian  Pass,  6  miles.  To 
top  of  Mt.  Jo  is  a  45  minutes'  scramble.  A  bridle  path  leads 
through  South  Meadow  to  Edmonds  Ponds,  8  miles  distant. 
It  is  about  5.  miles  by  road  to  the  main  thoroughfare,  which 
is  touched  J  of  a  mile  west  of  Ames'.  This  road  built 
specially  for  the  house  presented  great  difficulties  in  con- 
struction, which,  however,  were  successfully  overcome. 
Through  the  season  a  buckboard  stage  conveys  passengers 
and  mails  to  connect  at  Transfer  with  Elizabethtown  and 
Saranac  Lake  line.     Fare,  $1.00. 

Guides,  tents  and  suitable  clothing  for  the  purpose  may 
be  procured  here  by  parties  desiring  to  go  into  camp.  Ca- 
pacity of  house  and  camps,  about  100.  Board  per  day,  $4  ; 
per  week,  from  $16  upward.  Henry  Van  Hoevenbergh, 
l^roprietor.     P.  O.  address,  Cascadeville,  N.  Y. 

The  Au  Sable  River  is  crossed  2  miles  west  of  Ames\  A 
half  mile  further,  a  sign  on  the  left  points  south  toward  the 
last  resting  place  of  old  John  Brown,  and  another  mile  brings 
us  to  where  the  main  road  is  left  for  Mirror  and  Placid 
Lakes  lying  at  the  north. 

Mirror  Lake  is  about  one  mile  long  by  one-third  that 
in  width,  its  north  end  separated  from  Lake  Placid  by  only 


Lake  Placid.  89 

a  narrow  strip  of  land.  The  attractions  her.  have  led  to  a 
phenomenal  development,  and  the  prospects  are  that  in  time 
a  considerable  village  will  line  its  shores.     Tlie  post  office  ,s 

"  Lake  Placid." 

Mirror  Lake  Hotel  is   first  as   you   approach  from  the 
south      In  its  fitful  struggle  for  existence  during  the  last  three 
or  four  years,    it  has  waxed  strong  and   become  mighty  and 
to-day  sLnds  the  largest  hotel  at  Lake  Placid.     Recently  it  ,s 
believed  it  has  been  placed  on  a  foundation  that  will  not  be 
shaken  by  the  financial  storms  that  have  made  a  plaything  of 
t  in  the  past.     It  is  now  owned  by  the  Lake  Placid  Hotel  Co., 
of  whth'paul   smith   is   president   and   Charles  E.  Martin 
manager.     Paul  Smith's  reputation  as  a  hotel   man   extends 
wherever  the  Adirondack  wilderness  is  known.     The  famous 
hotel  at  St.  Regis  Lake  has  been  celebrated  for  years  as  the 
fashionable  resort  of  the  wilderness.     Years  ago  when  in   its 
early  prime,  and  almost  the  only  hotel  of  note  in  the  wilder- 
„ess  a  boy  started  in  its  service,  and  with  the  inquisitiveness 
of  a'  boy  and  the  determination  of  a  growing   man  to  know 
e  erythfng  to  be  learned  about  a  great  hotel,  served  faithful  y 
for  years  until  every  department  was  as  familiar  to  him  as  the 
A  B  C,  of  his  schoolboy  days.     Eventually  a  great  share  m 
the  management  of  the  old  house  fell  to  his  lot  until  other 
hands  came  to  relieve  him,  when,   after   nearly   25   years   of 
faithful  service,  he  graduated  to  take  upon  himself  larger  re- 
sponsibilities  in   different   fields.     This    boy   is   the   presen 
manager  of  the  Mirror  Lake  Hotel,  and  will  call  to  him  a  hos 
of  friends  who  will  remember  his  uniform  courtesy  his  genial 
ways  and  efficient   management   in   the   office  of  the  old  St 
Regis  House.     Mirror  Lake  Hotel  stands  at  the  south  end  of 
MiL  Lake,  commanding  a  view  of  '*>^,  ^'"^^  'f !  ^^"j^^ 
the  east  and   north,  the  picturesque  vil  age   of  Lake  Placid 
struggling  along   its  shores,  a  bit  of  Lake  Placid  itself,  and 
Whiteface  Mountain  beyond,  while,  stretched  along  the  south- 
ern sky  is  seen  the  panorama  of  grand  mountain  peaks.     It  is 
a  roomy  structure,  with  the   necessary  comforts  of  the  great 


Lake    Placid.  91 

hotel  of  the  day.  It  has  ample  piazzas  and  public  rooms, 
electric  light,  steam  heat  and  an  elevator.  It  is  furnished 
richly  and  comfortably.  It  has  spacious  halls  and  sleeping 
rooms  with  high  ceilings,  and  is  capable  of  thorough  ventila- 
tion with  the  most  perfect  sanitary  conditions.  Within  are 
billiards  and  bowling.  Without,  all  amusements  common  to 
out-door  life,  are  at  command.  Here  grace-giving  tennis  and 
the  more  sedate  croquet  claim  each  their  admirers,  while  those 
who  would  row  or  fish  can  be  provided  with  all  that  is  neces- 
sary for  comfort  or  pleasure.  Riding  and  driving,  staple 
amusements  the  world  over,  may  be  indulged  in  here  as  every 
class  of  vehicle  common  to  the  mountains,  with  saddle  horses, 
are  found  in  the  hotel  Hvery.  Those  who  care  to,  can  find 
pleasant  roads  and  ways  that  may  be  varied  at  will  and  found 
interesting  always.  Price  of  board  $3.00  to  $4.00  per  day ; 
$17.50  to  $28.00  per  week. 

There  is  a  telegraph  office  in  the  hotel,  and  mails  come  and 
go  twice  a  day.  Stages  arrive  and  depart  for  the  railroad  at 
Saranac  Lake,  morning  and  afternoon,  and  run  daily  to  Keene 
Valley,  Elizabethtown  and  Westport,  and  to  Au  Sable  Chasm. 

The  Grand  View  House  has  reverted  to  its  former  owner, 
Henry  Allen,  because  of  which  many  old  guests  will  be 
pleased.  Mr.  Allen  is  always  pleasant,  agreeable  and  obliging, 
and  wherever  he  is  in  the  management  visitors  know  that  the 
place  will  be  unconventional  and  popular.  This  house  stands 
on  the  summit  of  a  hill  west  of  Mirror  Lake.  It  is  appropri- 
ately named  the  "  Grand  View,"  for  not  only  does  it  com- 
mand the  view  north,  east  and  south,  common  to  other  hotels 
here,  but  also  the  quiet  of  the  spreading  forests  towards  the 
west  and  the  mountains  that  lie  about  far-away  Saranac  Lake; 
This  house  with  its  annex  linked  to  it  by  a  covered  walk  will 
accommodate  100  guests.  It  is  nicely  furnished  and  its  beds 
are  of  the  best  class.  Some  of  the  rooms,  particularly  those 
in  the  annex  are  very  desirable.  Pure  spring  water  is  brought 
through  pipes  into  the  house.  Its  commanding  position  ren- 
ders drainage  easy  and  thorough.     It  has  its  own  telegraph  of- 


92 


The  Adirondacks. 


fice  connected  with  the  regular  line  and  has  livery  accommo- 
dations the  same  as  may  be  found  at   all   good   hotels.     The 
rates  are  $3.00  per  day;  $14.00  to  $17.00  per  week. 
12        3  4  5  6  7 


THE  GREAT  PEAKS  FROM  LAKE  PLACID. 

1  Gothic.    2  Saddleback.    3  Basin,    i  Marcy.    6  Golden.    6  Mclntyre.    7  Indian  Pass. 

The  Stevens  House  built  in  1886  is  on  the  high  land  that 
separates  Mirror  Lake  from  Lake  Placid.  J.  A.  &.  G.  A. 
Stevens,  proprietors. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  equipped  houses  and 
commands  undoubtedly  the  most  comprehensive  view  of  any 
hotel  in  the  Adirondacks.  It  stands  200  feet  above  the  lake, 
whose  surface  is  1,863  f^^^  higher  than  the  sea.  From  this 
point  may  be  counted  a  score  of  the  great  peaks.  In  the 
southwest  is  distant  Seward;  further  west  is  Ampersand;  just 
over  the  water,  at  the  north,  is  dark  McKenzie ;  in  the  north- 
east, beyond  the  broad  surface  of  Lake  Placid,  is  the  bold 
crest  of  Old  Whiteface.  East  and  south  are  Pitchoff,  Long 
Pond,  and  Porter ;  and,  stretching  along  toward  the  west,  a 
long  line  of  giants,  are  the  Gothics,  Basin,  Marcy,  Golden, 
Mclntyre,  and  the  mountains  west  of  Indian  Pass.  Nearer 
are  the  cleared  fields  of  North  Elba,  and  the  old  John  Brown 
homestead.  At  our  feet  are  the  waters  of  Mirror  Lake,  and 
the  collection  of  native  and  summer  cottages  constituting  the 
hamlet  of  Lake  Placid. 

The  house  has  a  front  of  over  200  feet,  is  four  stories  high, 
with  piazzas  on  every  side,  affording  choice  of  wind  or  sun, 
and  with  recent  additions  affording  accommodations  for  nearly 
400  guests.  The  parlors  and  dining-room  have  each  an  area 
of  about  3,000  square  feet.  It  is  lighted  by  electricity.  A 
hydraulic  pump  forces  water  to  all  parts  of  the  house,   and. 


Lake  Placid.  93 

with  hose  attachment,  is  guard  against  possible  fire.  The  bed- 
ding, carpets,  etc.,  came  from  Arnold,  Constable  &  Co.  The 
beds  are  of  woven  wire,  and  with  hair  mattresses.  The  sani- 
tary conditions  are  believed  to  be  perfect.  Telegraph  office  in 
the  house. 

The  Messrs.  Stevens  are  also  owners  of  considerable  real 
estate  lying  along  shore  and  between  Mirror  Lake  and  Lake 
Placid.  This  property  has  been  laid  out  in  building  lots. 
Several  cottages  stand  here,  others  will  be  built  soon,  and,  in 
the  near  future,  one  may  reasonably  expect  to  see  this  entire 
slope  occupied  by  elegant  villas  or  cozy  cottages,  as  individual 
taste  may  dictate.  This  is  a  very  desirable  place  for  a  summer 
cottage,  being  sightly  and  cool;  while  its  elevated  position 
and  the  nature  of  the  soil  places  it  above  any  suggestion  of 
unwholesome  air  or  conditions. 

Furnished  cottages  and  camps  and  camp  or  cottage  sites, 
fronting  directly  on  the  lake,  may  also  be  obtained  of  the  three 
companies  who  now  virtually  control  the  shores  of  Lake  Placid 
on  very  reasonable  terms  by  applying  to  Clarence  M.  Noble, 
at  Lake  Placid. 

Stages  :  O'Brian  &  Vial's  stages  run  to  connect  with  all  trains 
at  Saranac  Lake,  nine  miles  distant.  Fare  $1.25.  Agnew 
Brothers'  stages  connect  with  evening  trains,  north  and  south, 
at  Westport.     Distance,  35  miles.     Fare,  $4. 

The  Lake  Placid  House  is  at  the  head  of  Mirror  Lake, 
east  of  the  Stevens  House,  with  room  for  about  60,  Rates 
unknown.     For  particulars  address  Geo.  W.  Baldwin. 

Lake  Placid  is  over  at  the  north  and,  although  distant  from 
Mirror  Lake  but  a  Uttle  way,  the  two  are  effectually  separated 
by  the  ridge  that  runs  between  them.  It  is  in  shape  oblong, 
something  over  four  miles  in  length  and  about  2  broad,  meas- 
uring through  or  between  the  islands,  of  which  there  are  three, 
called  respectively  Hawk,  Moose  and  Buck.  Hawk  is  small, 
but  Moose  and  Buck  are  large,  beautiful  islands  in  a  line  from 
the  first  toward  the  southwest,  the  three  dividing  the  sheet 
into  what  are  locally  known  as  the  east  and  west  lakes. 


94 


The  Adirondacks. 


Whiteface  Inn,  formerly  the  Westside  Hotel,  is  near  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  lake  and  about  40  feet  above  its 

surface.     In  front,  a 
broad  passage    leads 
into  the    East  Lake. 
Through  this  is  seen 
the  striking    b  1  u  ff 
known  as  the  Devil's 
Pulpit,  the  mountains 
around    Wilmington 
Pass,  and  in  the  dist- 
ance, Marcy  and  oth- 
er peaks.    The  West 
Lake,  str  etching 
northeast,  forms  the  middle  ground  of  a 
picture  of   which  the  distance  is  the 
rugged  and  noble  contour   of  White- 
face — a  view  pronounced  by  many  the 
finest  of  this    famous    peak.     Behind 
and  on  either  hand  is  the  forest  into  which  run  pleasant  walks 
and  bridle  paths,  one  of  the  latter  extending  to  the  top  of  Col- 
born  Peak,  a  half  mile  distant.     The  house  is  three  stories, 
with  spacious  rooms,  and  wide,  double  piazzas  on  the  north, 
south  and  east  sides.     Mrs.  M.  S.  Elmendorf,  who  so  success- 
fully conducted  the  old  Lake  Placid  House  for  the  past  two  or 
three  seasons,  is  the  manager.     It  is  designed  to  make  this  a 
first-class  house  in  all  respects,  as  it  has  a  backing  among  in- 
fluential people  which  makes  such  a   result  possible,  even  if 
the  experience  of  the  present  manager  is  not  a  guarantee  that 
whatever   is  undertaken  will  be  accomplished  in  the  best  of 
shape.     Many  decided  improvements  have  been  made  for  the 
opening.     Next  year  it  is  proposed  to  tear  down  the  present 
structure  and  have  a   larger   and  more  complete  building  for 
the  reception  of  guests.     The  rates  for   board  are  $3.00  per 
day,  $18.00  per  week,  with  special  terms  for  along  stay.     Ad- 
dress at  Lake  Placid. 


Lakf  Placid.  95 

Near  by  is  Camp  Pinafore  owned  by  E.  D.  Bartlett.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  extensive  camps  of  the  wilderness  and  highly 
artistic  as  a  whole. 

Castle  Rustico  on  the  west  shore  opposite  Moose  Island 
is  an  immense  suructure  of  logs,  rough  outside  and  rustic  in 
finish.  W.  F.  Leggett,  proprietor.  It  is  open  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  guests.      Rates  unknown. 

Under-Cliff  is  on  the  west  shore  well  up  towards  the  head 
of  the  lake.  The  woods  here  are  unbroken  save  an  opening 
among  the  trees  just  sufficient  to  give  place  for  the  various 
little  buildings  and  the  larger  central  one  made  common  for  all 
guests.  Back  of  it  towards  the  west  stretch  the  virgin  forests 
climbing  to  the  top  of  Mt.  McKenzie.  Near  by  are  pleasant 
coves  and  streams  and  woodsy  paths.  Nature  made  the  place 
charming  with  many  desirable  features  and  an  environment  of 
lovely  things.  A  lover  of  nature  has  beautified  it  and  made  it 
available.  Dr.  Charles  D.  Alton,  of  Hartford,  Connecticut, 
is  the  magician,  and  his  magic  wand  has  opened  up  one  of  the 
charming  places  of  this  region.  Originally  the  summer  camp 
of  a  physician  who  felt  the  need  of  occasional  rest  from  pro- 
fessional duties  it  was  often  occupied  by  patients  who  were 
friends  as  well,  then  of  others  who  were  not  patients,  but 
were  attracted  by  the  beauties  of  the  place  and  the  geniality 
of  the  host,  until  making  a  virtue  of  what  seemed  almost  a 
necessity,  the  camp  was  thrown  open  to  the  public  generally, 
and  as  such  became  a  decided  success,  with  only  so  much  of 
the  sanatarium  about  it,  as  must  exist  where  the  controlling 
spirit  unites  an  enthusiasm  for  his  profession  with  a  natural 
love  for  healthful  outdoor  sports.  Under  the  Doctor's  care  it 
grew  from  a  single  camp  to  a  little  village  of  tents  and  rustic 
cottages,  with  a  larger  central  building  and  assembly  room,  re- 
sembling some  of  the  larger  private  camps  of  note  in  the 
Adirondacks.  In  the  words  of  Dr.  Alton,  "The  beef,  iron  and 
wine  of  nature's  laboratory  are  here ;  ozone  and  electrical 
change  without  measure,"  and  in  addition  will  be  found  a  very 
satisfactory  bill  of  fare  with  other  things  in  keeping.  Address 
until  July  i,  Hartford,  Conn.  Through  the  summer  address 
at  Lake  Placid. 


96  The  Adirondacks. 

Chubb  River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Placid,  runs  toward  the 
southwest,  and  in  circling  around  toward  the  east  approaches^ 
quite  near  to  Paradox  Pond,  and  soon  after  joins  with  the 
Au  Sable  to  pass  through  Wilmington  Notch. 

The  Elba  House,  on  the  main  road,  two  miles  south  of 
Lake  Placid,  will  provide  for  16  boarders.  Rates  $2.50  per 
day;  $10.00  to  $15.00  per  week.  Open  from  June  ist  to  No- 
vember 15th.     R.  E.  Fisher,  proprietor.     P.  O.  Lake  Placid. 

Ray  Brook.  House,  5  miles  west  of  the  Elba  House  and  3 
miles  from  Saranac  Lake,  will  provide  for  40  guests.  Open 
from  June  to  November.  Rates  $3.00  per  day;  $10.00  to 
$17.00  per  week.  Duncan  Cameron,  proprietor.  Post  ofifice 
address,  Ray  Brook. 

The  narrative  portions  of  these  pages  left  us  tearing  our- 
selves away  from  the  proffered  hospitaHties  of  the  John  Brown 
farm,  after  which  we  sought  entertainment  at  Lyons'  Hotel. 
The  following  morning  took  us  to  Lake  Placid,  where  we 
nearly  succeeded  in  getting  a  cold  bath,  thanks  to  our  belief 
that  we  knew  perfectly  well  how  to  manage  an  Adirondack 
boat,  after  which,  fortified  with  a  dinner,  we  succeeded  in  re- 
moving Att.  from  the  presence  of  a  fascinating  divinity  in 
calico,  and  started  for  Saranac  Lake. 

Saranac  Lake  of  then  and  now  differs  somewhat-  It  did 
not  impress  me  favorably  at  the  time,  and  we  went  direct  to 
Martin's.  The  place  held  no  visible  promise  of  its  future  then, 
but  nature  had  made  it  the  natural  outlet  to  the  great  northern 
lake  country,  and  now — in  combination  with  its  porous  soil, 
the  Chateaugay  railway.  Dr.  Trudeau,  and  Milo  B.  Miller — 
has  it  taken  a  boom  that  promises  to  be  of  the  most  substantial 
and  lasting  kind.  It  is  a  pretty  little  town,  of  seven  to  eight 
hundred  native  inhabitants,  lying  low  in  the  valley ;  busy  and 
full  of  enterprise.  Around  it  are  protecting  hills,  and,  farther 
back,  mountains.  Between  the  hills  run  valleys  from  north, 
east  and  south,  uniting  here  so  that  it  is  approached  by  level  I 


'It 


Saranac  Lake.  9; 

roads,  winding  through  the  lowlands,  from  either  side.  It 
shows  a  picturesque  blending  of  the  primitive  forms  of  old 
times  with  the  swell  structures  of  prosperous  later  days,  since 
it  went  forth  that  here  was  the  health  centre  of  the  wilderness. 
It  has  two  churches — Methodist  and  Episcopal — a  graded 
school,  water  supply  for  street  and  dwellings,  stores  and  hotels, 
and  telegraphic  and  telephonic  communication  with  the  sum- 
mer hotels  of  the  lake  region  and  the  outer  world. 

The  Adirondack  Sanitarium  is  a  practical  appHcation  of 
the  good  to  be  had  here.  It  is  situated  a  mile  below  the  river, 
on  a  bluff,  commanding  a  grand  mountain  view  toward  the 
north  and  east,  and  well  protected  from  the  prevailing  western 
wind.  Dr.  Alfred  L.  Loomis,  of  New  York,  is  examining  phy- 
sician. The  institution  is  under  the  immediate  supervision  of 
Dr.  E.  L.  Trudeau,  assisted  by  Dr.  C.  T.  Wicker.  Appli- 
cants must  be  examined  either  by  Dr.  Loomis,  in  New  York, 
or  Dr.  Trudeau,  at  Saranac  Lake.  It  is  not  intended  as  an 
asylum  for  hopeless  cases;  but  to  put  within  reach  of  sufferers 
from  incipient  pulmonary  complaints,  whose  means  are  limited, 
the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  Adirondack  climate,  a 
simple,  out-of-door  life,  and  good  hygienic  surroundings,  with 
suitable  medical  treatment.  It  consists  of  a  handsome  central 
building,  containing  dining-room,  offices,  etc.,  and  outlying 
cottages,  accommodating  two  to  four  patients  each.  The 
Sanitarium  accommodates  about  sixty  patients.  A  charge  of 
$5.00  per  week  is  made  for  each.      This  is  below  the  actual 

cost  pro  rata^  but  the  deficiency  is  made  up  by  annual  sub- 
scriptions. Dr.  Trudeau's  experience  has  made  him  a  strong 
advocate  of  the  systematic  open-air  treatment  of  consumptives, 
which  is  carried  out  at  the  institution  in  most  cases,  and  a 
characteristic  scene  in  mid-winter  is  that  of  a  dozen  or  more 
patients  swathed  in  wrappers  of  wool  and  fur,  ranged,  sardine- 
like, side  by  side  on  the  piazza  in  comfortable  steamer  chairs, 
chatting  or  reading,  or  engaged  in  such  light  occupations  as 
are  possible  with  thickly  gloved  fingers,  often  remaining  out 
in  what  may  be  called  bad  weather  even,  from  nine  o'clock  in 
the  morning  until  sun-set,  excepting  during  the  interval  taken 


98 


The  Adirondacks. 


for  dinner.  Others  drive,  muffled  in  furs,  or  where  strength 
permits — thickly  clad  and  well  protected  from  the  cold — in- 
dulge in  long  tramps  through  the  woods  or  over  the  hills  on 
snow  shoes. 

This,  the  terminus  of  the  Chateaugay  Railroad,  has  excel- 
lent summer  service.  Commencing  June  22,  a  train  will  leave 
at  8:30  A.  M.,  and  reach  New  York  city  at  8:50  p.  m.,  shorten- 
ing the  time  over  three  hours  between  these  points,  including 
a  30  minute  stop  at  Plattsburgh,  for  dinner. 

The  Berkeley  House,  with  capacity  for  twenty  guests  and 
the  "Adirondack"  providing  for  as  many  more,  are  the  vil- 
lage hotels  with  a  local  and  commercial  patronage.  Linwoodl 
Cottage,  located  on  the  main  street  of  the  village  is  a  modern] 
cottage  of  ten  rooms,  pleasant  and  attractive.  Open  summer! 
and  winter.  For  particulars  as  to  rates,  etc.,  address  Frank] 
A.  Mantz,  Manager. 

Martin's  Hotel  is  on  high  ground,  on  the  road  to  the  lake.i 
The  proprietor,    William    F.   Martin,  was    the  founder  of  the] 
famous  old  Saranac  Lake  House.     He  is  an  enthusiastic  hun- 
ter and  obliging  withal.     Capacity  50.     Rates,  $2.50  per  day;j 
$10  to  $15  per  week,  open  May  to  December. 


Lower  Saranac  Lake  is  a  little  less  than  five  miles  long  by  | 
one  and  a  quarter  wide.     It  is  longest  from^ Ampersand  in  a ; 


'W#M;^.-«1' 


HOTEL  AMPERSAND    FROM  THE   WEST. 


Saranac  Lake.  99-a 

south-westerly  course  to  its  inlet.  Symmetrical  as  a  whole,  it 
is  separated  into  several  natural  divisions  by  outspread  penin- 
sulas and  chain-like  groups  of  islands  ;  there  being  of  the  lat- 
ter (counting;  as  such  several  huge  rocks)  one  for  every  week 
of  the  year. 

A  lock,  built  at  the  rapids  between  this  lake  and  Round 
Lake  renders  the  river  above  more  easily  navigable  than  here- 
tofore. It  was  intended  that  a  steamboat  should  run  the 
present  season  between  the  hotels  of  the  Lower  Lake  and 
Bartlett's  at  the  foot  of  the  Upper  Saranac,  connecting  there 
with  the  steamer  from  Saranac  Inn,  but  the  proposed  extension 
of  railroad  from  Tupper  Lake  to  Saranac  Lake  via,  Saranac 
Inn  made  the  scheme  an  unpromising  one  and  at  this  writing 
the  prospects  are  that  travelers  will  go  as  heretofore  in  twos 
and  threes  by  the  always  interesting — if  less  comfortable — 
guide-boats. 

Hotel  Ampersand,  at  the  extreme  northerly  end  of  the 
lake  was  completed  and  opened  November  ist,  1888.  In 
choosing  a  name  for  the  new  house,  the  above  was  deemed 
fitting  and  appropriate  from  the  vicinage  of  the  shapely  moun- 
tain that  looms  up  in  the  south  beyond  the  lake,  at  whose  base 
nestles  a  pretty  pond  bearing  the  same  name,  with  its  outlet 
in  a  little  stream  that  finds  its  devious  way  at  last  into  Ra- 
quette  River.  The  hotel  was  built  and  opened  by  the  Sara- 
nac Lake  Hotel  Company.  It  is  roomy,  rambling  and  artis- 
tic— full  of  unsuspected  corners  and  pleasant  surprises.  It  is 
picturesque  in  its  commanding  position  on  a  slight  eminence, 
surrounded  by  pines,  hemlocks  and  balsams,  with  white  birches 
gleaming  here  and  there  among  their  more  sombre  neighbors. 
During  the  past  winter  an  "  annex  "  for  the  accommodation 
of  young  men  has  been  added,  with  a  large  exercising  room. 
Also  an  addition  of  82  feet  to  the  west  wing  and  44  feet  to 
the  east  wing.  The  hotel  now  contains  146  bed  rooms,  68  of 
which  have  fire  places.  The  upper  rooms  of  the  new  addition 
have  private  bath-rooms  attached.  An  elevator  makes  all 
floors  almost  equally  desirable.  The  house  is  heated  throughout 


•         ■■■■'■'  <^^        \  >>  N\^~     -    ^\M't- 


SARANAC  LAKE  FROM  HOTEL  AMPERSAND. 


Hotel  Ampersand. 


99-B 


with  steam  and  lighted  by  gas.  Bath-rooms  are  on  every  floor. 
The  main  office  is  a  large  room  with  two  large  fire  places. 
It  opens  on  one  side  into  the  spacious  dining  room  and  on  the 


HOTEL   AMPERSAND,  OFFICE. 

other  into  a  reception  room,  ladies  billiard,  reading  and  writing 
rooms  and  parlor.  The  piazzas  are  broad,  extending  along 
the  entire  front  and  the  east  side  of  the  house.  The  hotel  is 
open  all  the  year,  the  protecting  trees  that  shield  its  winter 
guests  from  too  severe  winds  affording  a  grateful  shade  to  its 
summer  visitors.  The  Post  Office  "  Ampersand"  and  tele- 
phone, telegraph  and  a  general  store  are  in  the  hotel.  A  ten- 
nis court  and  base  ball  field  afford  opportunity  for  outdoor 
sports  for  every  one.  The  accompanying  cuts  show  glimpses 
of  the  house  in  summer  and  winter  and  a  view  of  the  lake 
from  the  piazza.  Board  $21.00  and  upwards  per  week. 
Transient  rates,  $4.00  per  day.  For  special  rates  and  par- 
ticulars address  the  Saranac  Lake  Hotel  Company,  Amper- 
sand, N.  Y. 

C.  M.  Eaton,  and  his  partner,  W.  G.  Young,  the  managers, 
represent    energy  and  enterprise   and   a    knowledge  of    the 


The  Adirondacks.  99-C| 

minutia  of  hotel  service  that  ensures  good  management  and 
smooth  working  throughout.     At  the  beginning,   the  Amper- 
sand took  position   as  a  popular  favorite.     With  a  generous 
freedom  of  management  not  often  equalled  it  has  continued 
so.     It  is  a  house  about  which  little  can  be  found  to  criticize. 
The  Saranac  Lake  House  is  near  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  Lower  Saranac,  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  depot. 
(Stage  50  cents).     It  is  oftener  spoken  of  as  "  Miller's  "  than 
by  its  proper  name.     Good  taste  is  displayed  in  the  general 
management,  and  it  is  justly  reckoned  among  the  desirable  re- 
sorts of  the  north.     It  is  Democratic  in  tendency,  breezy  and 
delightful  with  its  ever  changing  patronage.     Architecturally 
it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  Adirondack  hotels.     Large 
fire-places  have  been  built  in  many  of  the  rooms,  and  the  en- 
tire establishment  furnished  with  necessary  conveniences.    The 
greater  portion  of  the  sleeping  rooms  are  large,  well  lighted 
and  ventilated,  and  arranged  in  suites  of  from  two  to  six,  com- 
municating.    The  piazza  fronting  the  lake  affords  a  pleasant, 
covered  promenade,  and  the  parlors  look  out  on  one  of  the 
loveliest  of  quiet  Adirondack  scenes.     Across  the  bay,  at  the 
right,  the  shore  rises  abruptly  to  a  considerable  height.     At  the 
left,  near  by,  is  a  dense  grove  of  cedar,  balsam  and  tamarack, 
with  pleasant  walks  and  arbors.     Beyond  is  the  broad  lake? 
with  its  islands  and  distant  mountains.     The  telegraph,  tele- 
phone  and   a   branch  post  office  in  the  hotel.     Parties  can 
leave  New  York  at  7:30  p.  m.,  and  arrive  in  time  for  dinner. 
Returning  by  morning  train,  arriving  in  New  York  at  7^p.  m. 
This  house  has  a  capacity  for  250  guests.     Rates  $3  to  $4  per 
day,  $14  to  $28  per  week. 

D.  J.  GiLLiGAN  is  proprietor  of  the  Saranac  Lake  House, 
succeeding  Milo  B.  Miller,  who  has  so  long  and  so  success- 
fully conducted  it.  Mr.  Gilligan  was  formerly  proprietor  of 
the  Burleigh  House  and  Fort  Ticonderoga  Hotel,  where  he 
proved  an  efficient  and  thoroughly  competent  hotel  man,  and 
under  him  the  house  must  sustain  the  excellent  reputation  it 
has  deservedly  won  under  its  late  management.  In  the  office, 
old  friends  will  find  the  ever  courteous  and  obHging  clerk. 


THE  ALGONQUIX. 


Lower  Saranac  Lake.  99-E 

H.  H.  Tousley,  late  of  the  Alexander  House,  whom  it  is  a 
pleasure  to  commend.  Guides,  boats  and  cam])  supplies  and 
hunting  and  fishing  requisites  can  be  had  here  on  application. 
The  Algonquin  (formerly  Alexander  House)  has  been  pur- 
chased by  and  is  now  under  the  management  of  John  Harding, 
a  graduate  of  Paul  Smith's  famous  hostlery,  and  for  the  past 
two  years  associate  manager  of  the  Hotel  Ampersand.  The 
house  stands  on  high  ground  commanding  a  comprehensive  view 
of  the  lake,  its  islands  and  the  mountains  beyond.  This  is  com- 
paratively a  new  house,  finely  finished  in  natural  woods,  richly 
decorated^  and  furnished  luxuriously.  The  sleeping  rooms  are 
large  above  the  average  ;  the  beds  of  the  best.  It  has  high 
ceilings  and  large  windows.  It  has  open  fire-places,  affording 
ventilation,  and,  on  occasion,  necessary  heat.  It  has  wide 
piazzas  on  three  sides,  giving  300  feet  of  promenade  protected 
from  rain  and  sun.  The  grounds  are  extensive,  having  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  of  lake  front,  with  a  beautiful  sand  beach, 
space  for  out-door  amusements  in  way  of  tennis  court,  croquet, 
etc.,  and  pleasant  walks  that  penetrate  the  thick  woods,  afford- 
ing means  of  open  or  covered  promenade  as  may  seem  pleas- 
ant. Stages  connect  with  all  trains;  fare  50  cents.  Telegraph 
in  the  house.  Modern  conveniences  are  here  including 
electric  bells.  A  livery  will  be  maintained  by  the  proprietor 
1  and  single  or  double  carriages  furnished  at  established  prices* 
I  while  boats,  comfortably  large  and  steady,  or  of  the  cranky 
j  Adirondack  build,  as  preferred,  can  be  had,  with  guides  and 
all  the  requirements  for  hunting  and  fishing.  A  special  feature 
of  the  Algonquin,  much  affected  by  believers  in  the  efiicacy  of 
out-door  air,  in  shape  of  commodious  tents  with  carpeted  floor 
and  all  the  etceteras  of  a  well  furnished  bed-room,  will  be  pro- 
vided for  those  who  prefer  tent  life  to  the  accommodations  of 
the  hotel.  That  the  table  will  be  first-class  goes  without  ques- 
tion. Rates  $3.00  to  $4.00  per  day,  $15.00  to  $25.00  per 
week. 

The  outlet   is  about  three  miles  southeast  of  the  Algon- 
quin,  where   it    enlarges   to   form    Miller    Pond,    then    con- 


I 


loo  The  Adirondacks. 

tracting  swings  gradually  around  and  passes  through  the  vil- 
lage of  Saranac.  -M 

This  entrance  to  the  lake  region,  always  important,  is  be- 
coming better  known,  and  must  in  time,  by  virtue  of  its  posi- 
tion and  environment,  become  one  of  the  gateways  on  the 
main  line  of  travel,  the  other  being  Blue  Mountain  Lake ;  the 
two  lorming  the  terminal  stations  in  the  grand  round  trip 
through  the  Saranac  and  Raquette  waters,  crossing  the  Upper 
Saranac  at  its  outlet  and  leading  into  the  wilder  sections  about 
Big  Tupper  Lake. 

The  morning  following  our  arrival  at  Martin's  (now  Mill- 
er's) we  took  passage  in  one  of  Bartlett's  freight  boats,  which 
chanced  to  be  going  up  with  brick  and  other  hotel  supplies. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake,  "in  the  shadow  of  a  great  rock,"  we 
entered  the  inlet  and  sailed  up  through  the  lily  pads,  between 
lines  of  tall  dead  trees,  marking  what  was  once  the  shores  of 
the  stream.  Something  over  a  mile  above  we  came  to  the 
falls — but  little  more  than  rapids — where  the  water  shoots 
down  through  the  rocky  channel,  with  a  swish  and  a  saucy 
curl  or  two  at  the  bottom.  Here  we  steppcrd  ashore,  and 
helped  to  pull  the  boat  up  through  the  cut,  then  got  aboard 
and  picked  our  way  slowly  up  stream. 

We  noticed  that  the  boat  displaced  two  inches  of  water  at 
stem  and  i8  at  stern,  and  we  labored  with  the  captain  to  con- 
vince him  of  certain  facts  but  he  allowed  that  he  knew  how 
to  load  a  boat,  and  we  dragged  over  the  sandy  bottom  into 
Round  Lake  and  up  to  Bartlett's  finally  followed  by  a  series 
of  swells  such  as  follow  in  the  wake  of  a  deep  sea  propeller. 

Round  Lake  is  about  two  and  one-half  miles  in  diameter, 
and,  as  its  name  implies,  nearly  round  in  shape.  It  contains 
several  very  pretty  rocky  islands.  The  shores  are  bold,  and 
at  that  time  were  brilliant  in  their  autumn  dress.  Passing 
across,  we  went  out  on  the  west  side  between  two  great  rocks, 
and  up  a  slow  stream  h°alf  a  mile,  to  Bartlett's. 


Upper  Saranac  Lake.  ioi 

The  Saranac  Club  House  (formerly  Bartlett's)  is  at  the 
foot  of  a  short  carry  between  Round  Lake  and  the  Upper 
Saranac.  The  portage  is  by  cart,  costing  50  cents  for  boat 
and  baggage.  The  traffic  to  this  point  is  generally  by  water, 
although  possible  to  reach  the  house  by  a  road  through  the 
woods. 

This  property  has  lately  been  purchased  by  a  company,  in- 
corporated as  the  "Saranac  Club"  with  a  charter  member- 
ship of  20.  The  stated  objects  of  the  club  are,  primarily,  the 
health,  happiness  and  pleasure  of  its  members,  but  while  the 
accommodations  of  the  house  will  be  largely  required  for  the 
club  it  will  be  kept  open  as  a  hotel  and  the  public  accommo- 
dated to  such  an  extent  as  may  be   without  inconvenience  to 

club  members. 

********* 

Gentle  reader,  if  your  heart  does  not  bound  in  sympathy 
with  an  angler's  tale  skip  this ;  it  is  only  a  fishy  experience. 
While  at  Bartlett's  in  '63,  we  decided  to  take  a  trip  through 
the  upper  lake  and  return  (as  the  course  we  had  marked  out 
simply  led  across  the  south  end),  and  I  thought  it  would  do 
no  harm  to  put  out  a  troUing  line — we  might  strike  something. 
So,  after  dinner,  I  applied  to  the  alleged  clerk  for  the  neces- 
sary articles.  He  did  not  appear  particularly  anxious  to 
spring  around  and  wait  on  people.  He  was  devoted  to  his 
duties  behind  a  little  semi-circular  desk,  which  fenced  in  one 
corner  of  the  room,  and  afforded  a  safe  retreat  for  himself  and 
sundry  dark-looking  bottles.  He  appeared  tired,  but  said  he 
would  try  to  rig  me  up.  In  the  course  of  half  an  hour  I 
found  him  sitting  contentedly  on  the  porch,  where  he  had 
stopped  to  rest,  and  was  soothed  with  the  information  that  he 
didn't  believe  there  was  any  use  trying  to  trolL  I  thought  so 
myself,  but  nevertheless,  so  long  as  I  had  set  out  with  that  in- 
tention I  proposed  to  persevere,  so  he  started  again.  After 
another  lapse  of  valuable  time,  I  found  him  in  the  guide-house 
sitting  serenely  on  a  dry-goods  box,  apparently  going  to  sleep. 
At  last,  however,  with  the  aid  of  our  guide,  I  secured  the 
necessary  articles  and  started.     We  went  and  returned,  and  I 


102  The  Adirondacks. 

didn't  get  a  bite.  I  was  surprised,  for  I  fished  faithfully.  Per- 
haps the  velocity  of  our  boat  had  something  to  do  with  our  ill 
1  ick,  as  the  "gang"  to  which  a  shiner  was  attached  would 
spring  out  of  the  water  occasionally,  and  skitter  along  the  sur- 
face like  any  thing  but  a  fish,  but  I  thought  they  might  over- 
look that  little  matter.  The  spirit  of  Isaac  Walton  moved 
within  me,  and  I  felt  the  excitement  of  a  veteran  angler  at  the 
very  smell  of  fish.  I  had  admired  Murray  for  his  wonderful 
skill  in  casting  flies  and  things ;  devoured  the  contents  of  i 
"I  go-a-fishing"  with  avidity,  and  felt  able  to  play  any  fish 
and  throw  any  kind  of  fly  in  existence  In  imagination,  with 
the  great  piscatorial  lights  of  the  age,  I  had  felt  my  heart  thrill 
at  sight  of  a  polywog,  and  often  closed  my  eyes  in  an  ecstacy 
of  bliss,  as  I  thought  of  the  terrific  ravings  of  a  half  ounce 
sucker  when  fairly  fast.  With  such  feelings  surging  through 
my  breast,  we  went  in  to  supper.  Ah  !  can  it  be  possible  ? 
Yes,  jy^s,  it  is  !  it  is  ! !  A  school  of  fish-balls  within  easy  reach  ! 
I  will  catch  one.  But  what  true  fisherman  can  act  the  part  of 
a  butcher?  True  greatness  in  that  line  consists  not  in  the 
amount  bagged,  but  in  the  m.anner  of  doing  it.  My  heart 
thrilled  with  the  excitement  which  the  angler  feels  when  the 
gently  undulating  motion  of  the  atmosphere  tells  him  that  his 
game  is  nigh.  I  prepared  for  a  cast.  A  moment's  hesitation 
occurred,  in  which  the  momentous  question  presented  itself 
whether  I  had  better  take  my  "scarlet  dragoon '^  or  *'blue- 
tailed-ibies."  I  tried  both,  but  not  a  ripple  stirred  the  quiet 
depths.  Then  I  tried  a  spoon.  Now  I  contend  that  it  re- 
quires a  great  deal  of  skill  to  cast  a  spoon  properly  for  a  fish- 
ball,  especially  at  this  season  of  the  year.  Carefully  I  played 
it  around  over  the  bread;  dragged  it  slowly  across  the  pota- 
toes, skittered  it  lightly  over  the  butter,  and  let  it  drop  where 
I  knew  the  wary  creatures  were  lying  in  wait.  Slowly  it  set- 
tled down,  lightly  as  the  dew  into  the  heart  of  a  blushing  rose. 
A  gentle  ripple  stirred  the  surface.  I  felt  intuitively  that  the 
trying  moment  had  come.  A  thrill  shot  up  my  arm,  and 
throughout  my  body,  to  the  very  pit  of  my  stomach,  as  the 


Exciting  Sport.  103 

beautiful  creature  curled  upward  and  struck — struck  hard. 
Then  began  the  struggle  for  life  on  the  one  side  against 
science  on  the  other — mind  against  matter.  It  is  an  un- 
doubted fact  that  an  intellectual  man,  with  a  good  spoon,  is 
more  than  a  match  for  any  fish-ball  in  existance.  Carefully  I 
played  him,  for  he  was  a  gamey  fish-ball.  The  surrounding 
gravy  was  lashed  into  fury,  and  foamed  white  as  the  driven 
snow,  but  the  cruel  spoon  held  him,  and,  with  a  sullen  shak- 
ing, he  rested  on  the  bottom — preparing  for  another  run. 
Now  he  darts  away  like  a  flash  of  light,  and  is  brought  up  by 
my  gradually,  though  firmly-compressing  arm  ;  then  he  turned? 
and  clove  his  native  element  as  the  thunder-bolt  might  cleave 
a  'Summer  squash.  But  the  spoon  brought  him  up  once  more, 
ar:d  he  turned  directly  toward  me.  It  was  a  critical  moment — 
a  moment  of  terrible  suspense. 

"  Give  him  the  butt !"  screamed  the  Professor,  dodging  be- 
hmd  the  teapot;  "give  him  the  butt !  —  they  always  do." 

"  Stand  firm.  Professor  !"  I  cried,  wrought  up  to  the  high- 
est pitch  of  excitement  as  the  enraged  fish-ball  sprang  into  the 
air,  and  made  directly  for  me  with  my  mouth  wide  open : 
"stand  firm,  and  the  victory  is  ours." 

I  gave  him  the  butt  as  he  came,  and  the  delicate  rod  bent 
as  a  reed  shaken  in  the  wind.  Oh  !  the  terrific  fire  that  blazed 
from  the  eye  of  that  fish-ball  will  haunt  me  till  my  dying  day. 
Rage,  agony,  despair,  all  blended  in  one,  as,  shaking  the  spark- 
ling drops  of  gravy  from  his  gleaming  sides,  he  sprang  entirely 
over  us  —  plunged  downward  on  the  other  side.  Again  and 
again  he  renewed  the  attack.  But  I  desist.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that,  in  less  than  an  exciting  hour  and  fifty-nine  minutes  sport, 
I  succeeded  in  safely  landing  that  heroic  creature  and  laid 
him  —  a  conquered  fish-ball  —  at  my  feet.  Science  had  again 
triumphed. 

Mr.  Murray  says,  "  the  highest  bodily  beautitude  1  ever  ex- 
pect to  reach,  is  to  sit  in  a  boat  with  John  at  the  paddle,  and 
match  again  a  Conroy  rod  against  a  three-pound  trout."  As 
for  vie^  give  me  my  trusty  spoon  —  or  even  a  sharp  stick.     I 


I04  The  Adirondacks. 

care  not  who  sits  at  the  paddle,  and  let  7ne  once  more  feel  the 
deathless  joy  of  a  single-handed  encounter  with  an  untamed 
fish-ball,  and  I'll  murmur  not,  though  a  yawning  legislature 
opens  and  sucks  me  in  forever.  Pardon  this  ebullition ;  I  can 
never  keep  cool  when  excited.  And  righi  here,  let  me  lift  my 
voice  against  the  horrible  practice  of  some  coarse  natures, 
whose  soul  never  swept  upward  to  a  spiritual  conception  of 
flies ;  and  who,  with  no  excuse,  save  perhaps  that  of  hunger, 
can,  with  a  common  hook  and  line,  and  filthy  worms /or  bait, 
snatch  a  kingly  trout  bald-headed,  and  lay  him  gasping  in  un- 
comfortable terror  on  the  ground.  I  cannot  find  words  of 
condemnation  strong  enough  to  express  my  horror  of  this 
barbarous  practice,  which  is  extremely  vulgar,  contributes 
nothing  to  science,  and  is,  in  all  probability,  excessively  annoy- 
ing to  the  fish. 

On  the  contrary,  the  scientific  alurement  of  a  denizen  of 
the  aqueous  fluid  to  the  one  more  volatile  is  an  achievement 
worthy  of  a  great  intellect.  The  skillful  playing  prepares  the 
noble  creature  for  its  final  transition,  which,  if  not  actually 
attended  with  pleasurable  sensations  to  the  subject  in  question, 
is  owing  to  its  lack  of  appreciation  of  the  important  part  it  is 
playing  in  the  march  of  intellect.  It  is  also  more  christian- 
like and  refined  than  bull-baiting,  because  less  dangerous ;  and 
we  cannot  wonder  that  great  minds  —  divines  even  —  are  some- 
times translated  by  its  wonderful  fascinations. 

Upper  Saranac  Lake  rests  at  1,577  feet  above  tide.  It  is 
eight  miles  long,  measuring  north  and  south  \  about  two  miles 
wide  at  its  broadest  places ;  and  is  divided  into  unequal  lobes 
by  points  projecting  from  its  east  and  west  shores.  It  dis- 
charges toward  the  east  from  its  south  end,  making  a  rapid 
descent  of  about  35  feet  in  100  rods,  to  Bartlett's.  It  contains 
a  number  of  islands ;  those  at  the  south  being  rounded  or 
level ;  those  at  the  north,  bold  and  rocky.  The  shores  partake 
of  the  nature  of  the  islands ;  are  thickly  wooded,  and  rise  into 
hills,  which  can  hardly  lay  claim  to  the  title  of  mountains,  but 
which  are  picturesque  and  attractive.     In  the  distance,  at  the 


Upper  SARANyvc  Lake. 


105 


^04  <«    '«. 


north,  is  St.  Regis  Mountains ;  away  at  the  east,    Whiteface ; 

toward  the  south-west,  Ampersand  and  Seward. 

McCoy's  Rustic  Lodge,  is  at  the  south  end  of  the  Upper 

Saranac,  about  three  miles  from  Bartlett's.     It  stands  well  up 

]  above  the  water  on  the  divide 
between  the  Saranac,  and  Ra 
quette  Lake  waters  which  latter 
Hows  from  this  point  toward  tlie 
south.  From  this  point  the 
famous  Indian  Carry  extends 
south  one  mile  to  Stony-creek 
Ponds,  affording  a  very  pleasant 
walk,  and  is  continued  around 
them  at  the  west,  two  miles 
farther,  ending  at  the  Raquette 
River.  The  house  is  picturesque, 
half  log,  half  frame,  and  has 
been  added  to  as  the  necessity 
for  greater  accommodations 
were  felt,  and  with  several  de- 
tached cottages  of  one  room 
each  in  a  line  along  the  ridge 
facing  the  lake,  has  capacity 
for  about  60  guests.  It  is  high^ 
dry  and  breezy,  wholesome  of 
itself  and  in  its  surroundings.  It 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  lake. 
MAP  OF  UPPER  SARANAC  LAKE.        Mails  aie  brought  herc   and  de- 

(From  Survey  by  Dr.  S.  B.  ^  ard.)  ° 

part  daily  by  a  boat  leaving  Saranac  Lake  every  morning  ex- 
cept Sunday,  during  the  season.  Telegraph  at  Wawbeek,  20 
minutes  distant.  The  Chateaugay  railroad  brings  this  point 
within  20  hours  of  New  York  city.  The  proprietor,  E.  R. 
McCoy,  is  energetic  and  obliging.  The  house  is  open  from 
May  I st  to  November.  Rates  $2.50  per  day;  $10.00  to 
$14.00  per  week. 


SCAUt 


H/AWATHO  ItOOSt 


io6  The  Adirondacks. 

Saranac  Inn  is  at  the  head  of  the  lake  about  15  miles 
from  Saranac  Village,  where  stages  run,  connecting  with  all 
trains.  Fare  $1.50.  A  new  road,  to  be  opened  up  soon,  will 
reduce  the  distance  to  a  little  more  than  10  miles.  By  water 
from  Saranac  Inn  to  Miller's  is  20  miles;  to  Paul  Smith's  10^ 
miles.  At  present  the  road  runs  through  a  picturesque  sec- 
tion of  the  country,  finally  entering  the  woods,  which  in  places 
exist  in  their  primeval  condition.  All  the  way — except  in  ex- 
tremely bad  weather — the  road  is  in  good  condition  and  the 
ride  a  delightful  one.  The  house  stands  at  a  point  extending 
out  into  the  lake  and  commands  a  broad  expanse  of  water  and 
distant  mountains  equalled  nowhere  in  the  Adirondacks,  ex- 
cept from  the  high  land  between  Mirror  Lake  and  Lake  Placid. 
The  land  is  dry  and  porous,  the  peninsula  on  which  the  house 
stands  level,  and  the  woods  which  forms  a  pleasant  feature  in 
its  surroundings,  are  grove-like,  resembling  a  cultivated  park 
in  their  shadowy  depths.  Under  its  present  management  the 
Inn  has  gained  the  highest  praise.  The  table  is  exceptionally 
nice.  This  house  has  a  capacity  for  125  guests.  Board  $3.50 
per  day;  $17.50  to  $30.00  per  week,  according  to  rooms. 
The  season  is  from  May  ist  to  October  15th.  A  loop  of  the 
telegraph  extends  to  this  point  with  office  in  the  hotel.  Post- 
office  address  "  Saranac  Inn."     D.  W.  Riddle,  Manager. 

This  place  is  specially  attractive  to  the  fisherman,  because 
of  the  multitude  of  small  ponds  and  streams  adjacent,  there 
being  within  a  circuit  of  three  miles  over  thirty  that  are  recog- 
nized as  among  the  best  trout  yielding  waters  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks. For  obvious  reasons  also,  the  hunter  with  limited  time, 
will  find  this  available  ground.  A  good  road  penetrates  the 
forests ;  an  excellent  house  renders  the  isolated  position  com- 
fortable. It  is  well  out  in  that  wilderness  which,  north,  west 
and  south,  is  almost  unbroken  and  impenetrable  save  over  the 
watery  highways,  where  the  streams  and  ponds  cover  the  tract 
like  crystal  beads  on  a  net-work  of  silver.  Into  this  labyrinth 
comes  the  deer  who  delight  in  the  still  water  and  the  tender 
food  growing  at  its  edge.     With  them  it  is  a  favorite  feeding 


UrrER  Saranac  Lake. 


107 


ground  and  they  find  none  better  even  in  the  far  west.  All 
these  attractions  tend  to  make  the  Saranac  Inn  an  unusually 
desirable  resort. 

This  is  a  favorite  spot  with  ex-President  and  Mrs.  Cleveland, 
and  headquarters  during  their  flying  trip  to    the  woods.     Dr. 

S.  B.  Ward,  of  Albany, 
is,  also,  a  regular  visitor 
here;  and  to  him  the 
publisher  is  indebted  for 
a  copy  of  the  map  in- 
corporated in  the  large 
map  of  the  wilderness 
and  shown  in  these 
pages  A  pretty  little 
church  on  the  hill  back 
of  the  hotel,  erected  in 
1885,  is  open  for  serv- 
ice during  the  summer. 
A  number  of  very  at- 
tractive private  camps  are  on  the  bay  west  of  the  house,  and 
at  various  points  south. 

Steamer  "  Saranac  "  will  run  regular  trips  through  the  lake 
from  Saranac  Inn,  morning  and  afternoon,  landing  visitors  at 
all  points  along  the  lake  and  connecting  at  Bartlett  with  boats 
on  the  lower  lakes.  Saranac  Inn  Station,  on  the  N.  A.  R.  R. 
is  eight  miles  east  of  Saranac  Inn  to  which  point  a  stage  runs 
from  all  trains,  fare  $1.00.  Section  of  the  M.  V.  &  N.  R. 
R.,  now  being  built,  runs  from  Tupper  Lake  to  this  point  with 
through  trains  from  Grand  Central  Station,  New  York  city, 
without  change  of  cars. 

Wawbeek  Lodge  is  the  name  of  the  new  hotel  at  the 
Sweeney  Carry  on  the  west  shore  opposite  the  outlet  of  the 
Upper  Saranac;  "Wawbeek"  is  Indian  for  big  rock  and  was 
suggested  by  a  huge  bowlder  lying  on  the  hill  side.  It  com- 
mands an  extensive  view  of  the  lake,  a  long  stretch  of  water 
toward  the  north  and  another  down  into  the  deep  arm  which 
forms  the  outlet  towards  the  east.     It  is  artistic  in  design  and 


MAP    SHOWING    THE    I5    SQUARE    MILES  BELONGING  TO 
THE    SARANAC     INN    COMPANY. 


io8  The  Adirondacks. 

finish.  Pure  water  is  there,  brought  into  the  house  from  a 
distant  spring,  and  perfect  ventilation  and  drainage  assured. 
Furnished  tents  are  grouped  around  the  house  for  the  accom- 
modation of  those  who  may  prefer  them  to  house  room.  Waw- 
beek  Lodge  is  reached  from  Saranac  Lake  Station  through  the 
Lower  Lake  and  stream  by  rowboat,  or  by  way  of  the  Northern 
Adirondack  Railroad  to  Tupper  Lake  Station,  thence  by  stage 
over  the  new  road  through  the  woods.  Board  per  day  $4.00 ; 
per  week,  $17.50  and  upwards.  Open  from  May  to  Novem- 
ber. The  manager,  T.  Edmund  Krumbholz,  is  affable  and 
obliging.  P.  O.  "Wawbeek,"  N.  Y.  A  telegraph  station  is 
at  the  house. 

Sweeney  Carry  extends  from  Wawbeek  west  three  miles  to 
the  Raquette  River.  For  transportation  of  boat  and  luggage 
across,  the  price  is  $1.50.  Parties  of  three  can  ride  over  on  a 
buckboard  for  50  cents  apiece. 

Tromblee's  is  on  the  Raquette  River,  at  the  west  end  of 
Sweeney  Carry.  Buckboards  can  be  had  here  by  east  coming 
passengers  for  the  three  mile  trip  over,  and  carrying  wagons 
for  the  boats  and  luggage.  The  river  above  this  point  is  de- 
lightfully picturesque,  marks  of  the  desolation  caused  by  the 
flooded  flats  not  being  so  apparent  here  as  further  down.  Troll- 
ing for  pickerel  is  the  popular  sport  and  yields  most  satisfac- 
tory results.  The  house  is  small,  affording  accommodations 
for  only  six  or  eight  people,  but  it  gives  an  exceedingly  good 
dinner.  Board  $10.00  per  week;  $2.00  per  day.  Mail  daily 
through  the  season.  Open  from  May  ist  to  November. 
Oliver  Tromblee,  proprietor.  Post  office  address,  Wawbeek, 
N.  Y.  It  is  about  8  miles  from  Tromblee's  Landing  by  the 
new  road  to  Tupper  Lake  Station.  By  river  to  the  foot  of 
Tupper  Lake  the  distance  is  about  1 1  miles. 

The  Lower  Raquette  near  the  foot  of  Tupper  Lake  is,  as 
the  result  of  a  dam  built  at  Raquette  Pond,  a  perpetual  protest 
against  the  outrages  perpetrated  in  the  name  of  utility,  where 
retributive  nature,  in   pursuance  of  a  well-recognized  law  be- 


Gale.  109-A 

cause  of  stripped  mountain  side  and  barren  upland,  fails  to 
send  its  old-time  supply  of  rain.  In  the  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer, the  water  sets  back  away  up  to  Ra([uette  Falls  and  into 
St6ny  Creek  Ponds,  but  later  it  is  allowed  to  drain  low,  that 
forsooth,  a  saw-mill  may  be  fed,  exposing  hideous,  slime- 
covered  flats  and  malaria-breeding  pits  and  the  skeletons  of 
drowned  trees  standing  and  lying  prone  all  along  its  course. 
These  drowned  lands  are  indicated  on  the  map  by  parallel 
lines.     See  page  109-F. 

Raquette  Pond,  terminus  of  the  Northern  Adirondack 
Railroad,  now  called  Tupper  Lake  is  two  miles  below  Tup- 
per  Lake.     Seepage  109-D. 

Downey's  Landing  is  8  miles  beyond  Raquette  Pond.  The 
stream  is  navigable  except  for  short  carries  a'round  falls  and 
rapids.  It  may  be  done  for  pleasure  or  in  case  of  dire  ne- 
cessity, but  the  more  comfortable  way  is  by  rail  and  stage 
from  Childwold  Station. 

Childwold  Station,  eight  miles  south  of  Saranac  Inn  Sta- 
tion and  51  miles  from  Moira.  From  this  point  a  stage  runs 
daily,  west  to  Gale  and  Childwold  Park,  seven  miles.  Fare,  $1. 

The  Pond  View  House  (P.  O.  Gale),  is  situated  on  the 
shores  of  Catamount  Pond  about  six  miles  west  of  Childwold 
Station.  E.  P.  Gale,  proprietor.  This  of  old  was  a  noted 
house  of  entertainment  for  sportsmen.  Later  it  has  been  pro- 
vided with  modern  conveniences  which  the  old  sportsman  did 
not  consider  necessary  to  his  comfort  or  happiness,  and  pro- 
visions made  to  meet  the  more  exacting  requirements  of  tour- 
ists and  summer  visitors.  New  parts  have  been  added 
until  now  accommodations  are  offered  for  about  100  guests. 
The  rates  are  $2.00  per  day;  $8.00  to  $12.00  per  week. 
Special  rates  are  offered  guests  who  may  come  for  spring  fish- 
ing or  fall  hunting,  and  those  who  stay  through  the  entire 
season.  The  house  is  open  the  year  round.  Boats  and  com- 
petent guides  can  be  secured  here  and  all  the  requirements  of 
'hunting  and  fishing  can  be  furnished  by  the  proprietor.  A 
large  farm  connected  with   the   hotel   supplies  fresh  milk  and 


Childwold  Park.  109-c 

eggs  with  vegetables  in  their  season.  The  Post  office,  known 
as  Gale,  is  in  one  of  the  buildings  connected  with  the  house, 
and  the  proprietor  of  the  house  is  postmaster.  The  place  as 
a  whole  presents  the  appearance  of  rustic  comfort,  which  with 
the  reasonable  terms  offered  insures  a  very  satisfactory  pa- 
tronage. 

Lake  Massawepie  is    the  fountain  head  of  Grass  river 

one  of  the  best  trout  streams  in  Northern  New  York — and  a 
noted  resort  for  deer.  Mr.  Addison  Child,  to  whom  this  sec- 
tion owes  much 
of  its  prosperi- 
ty, and  Mr. 
Henry  G.Dorr, 
of  Boston,  to- 
gether own  the 
whole  western 
half  of  the 
township,  and 
have  preserved 
under  the  state 
law,  5, 000  acres 
here,  embrac- 
ing Lake  Mas- 
sawepie and  six  contributary  sheets  of  water  that  encircle  it, 
as  a  game  and  pleasure  park. 

Childwold  Park  House  is  on  the  east  shore  of  Massa- 
wepie Lake,  flanked  by  a  number  of  attractive  Queene  Anne 
cottages.  This  place  with  the  opening  of  the  Northern  Adi- 
rondack Railroad  to  Tupper  Lake  has  been  made  easily  acces- 
sible. It  has  natural  attractions  of  broken  and  picturesque 
wilderness  surroundings,  and  a  broad,  beautiful  lake  with  nu- 
merous small  ponds  adjacent.  The  house  stands  on  high 
ground  rising  considerably  above  the  water,  with  piazzas  on 
three  sides,  and  a  belvedere,  rising  78  feet  above  the  lake. 
Boats,  and  hunting  and  fishing  supplies,  can  be  obtained  here 
with  competent  men  for  camp  or  trail.     It  is  reached  by  stage 


I09-D  The  Adirondacks. 

from  Childwold  Station  on  the  Northern  Adirondack  railroad, " 
7  miles   distant.     Fare,  $i.oo.     Price  for  board   $3   per  day; 
$14  to  $21  per  week,  according  to  room  and  length  of  stay. 
Wm.  F.  Ingold,  of  "  The  MagnoHa,"  Florida,  manager. 

Convenient  railroad  service  is  maintained  from  New  York 
and  Boston.  Wagner  sleeping  cars  leave  both  cities  daily  ex- 
cept Saturday,  and  run  through  to  Childwold  Station  without 
change.  A  telegraph  line  and  daily  mail  are  in  operation  dur- 
ing the  season. 

The  Lower  Raquette  can  be  reached  via  Potsdam. 
There  are  small  houses  at  intervals  along  the  road  and  river, 

where  entertainment  can  be  had  at  from 
$1.00  to  $1.50  per  day.  The  Forest 
House  is  at  Stark's  Falls,  22  miles 
from  Potsdam.  The  Jordon  House  is 
6  miles  farther,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Jordan  River.  The  "  Kildare  Club," 
of  New  York,  composed  of  members  of 
the  Vanderbilt  family  and  friends,  has  a 
hunting  lodge  near  Jordan  Lake  and  a 
park  of  several  thousand  acres  lying 
along  the  river.  Kildare  Station,  on  the  N.  A.  Railroad  and 
a  new  road  thence  to  Jordan  Lake  are  for  the  special  benefit  of 
the  club. 

Childwold,  3  miles  from  Childwold  Park,  36  miles  from 
Potsdam.  It  has  an  elevation  of  about  1,450  feet  above  tide 
in  a  belt  of  good  agricultural  land  on  which  a  colony  of  farm- 
ers are  thriving. 

TUPPER  Lake  (village),  P.  O.  and  terminus  of  the  N.  A.  R. 
R.,  56  miles  south  of  Moira,  is  on  the  east  shore  of  Raquette 
Pond,  two  miles  below  the  point  where  Tupper  Lake  hangs 
like  a  pocket  on  the  south  side  of  Raquette  River.  It  is  a 
revelation  of  thrifty  and  sudden  growth,  reminding  one 
of  those  marvelous   western    towns  that  seem    to   spring  up 


TuppER  Lake.  1C9-E 

almost  in  a  night.  When  John  Hiird  built  the  N..  A.  R.  R. 
south  to  this  point  to  subserve  his  vast  lumber  interests,  this 
was  practically  virgin  forest.     The  first  train  ran  over  the  road 

^^ July    I  St,     1890.       Now   there    are 

PBPBoftL^B^  grouped  about  its  terminus  over   a 

■  CmS  fMOlRA  111 

Ij^J      I  hundred  buildmgs  of  various    sizes 

and  conditions.  A  church  (build- 
ing), three  hotels,  two  school  houses 
(a  larger  one  building),  and  two 
steam  saw-mills,  one  belonging  to 
the  owner  of  the  railroad  with  ca- 
pacity for  sawing  200,000  feet  of 
lumber  per  day  and  a  smaller  one 
belonging  to  the  Hobson  Lumber 
Co.,  with  a  daily  capacity  for  sawing 
45,000  feet  This  will  be  the  junc- 
tion of  the  N.  A.  R.  R.  with  the  A.  &  St.  L.  Ry.,  a  section  of 
which  extending  from  this  point  to  Saranac  Inn  and  Saranac 
Lake  village,  will  be  constructed  and  in  operation  in  August. 
Stages  run  daily  to  Wawbeek,  8  miles,  fare  $1.00.  Steam- 
boats to  the  various  hotels  on  Tupper  Lake,  fare  50  cents  to 
li.oo. 

Tupper  Lake  is  1,554  feet  above  tide.  It  is  nearly  seven 
miles  long  and  three  broad.  It  has  25  islands,  some  level  and 
covered  with  thrifty  trees,  some  barren  and  rocky,  rising  steeply 
from  the  water.  Long,  or  County  Island  is  the  largest,  being 
nearly  a  mile  in  length.  A  precipice  on  its  west  side  is  known 
as  the  Devil's  Pulpit.  The  surrounding  country  is  wild  but 
not  grand  with  mountain  heights.  Mount  Morris,  at  the  south- 
east, is  the  most  important  elevation  of  the  section.  Bog 
River  comes  picturesquely  down  over  the  face  of  the  o  ugh 
rocks  at  the  head  of  the  lake  where  a  ruined  saw  mill  marks 
a  past  ''  effort." 

Mount  Morris  House  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake  near 
the  outlet.   Occupancy  uncertain  at  this  writing. 

Redside  Camp  is  on  a  high  bluff,  where  Redside  Brook 
empties  into  the  lake,  a  half  mile  south  of  the   Mt.  Morris 


I09-F  The  Adirondacks. 

House.  It  stands  in  a  thrifty  grove  of  second  growth  timber^ 
and  commnds  a  wide  and  beautiful  view  of  the  lake  and  the 
country  beyond.  Twelve  to  fifteen  guests  can  be  cared  for 
here  by  Martin  Moody.  Perhaps  Mrs.  Moody  has  more  to 
do  with  the  providing  for  guests  than  "  Mart,"  but  whoever 
the  responsible  party  may  be,  they  furnish  good,  wholesome, 

substantial  fare 
to  make  the 
heart  of  the 
hunter  and 
fisherman  glad. 
The  Post  office 
called  ''  Moo- 
dy" is  located 
here  also,  and 
the  proprietor 
of  the  house  is 
Board  costs  $1.50  per 
day;  $10.00  to  $12.00  per  week. 
The  new  building  in  process  of 
construction  is  expected  to  be  ready 
for  guests  by  the  first  of  August, 
when  accommodations  will  be  of- 
fered for  50  guests.  Mr.  Moody  has 
been  noted  for  years  as  the  mighty 
hunter,  and  where  he  fails  in  knowl- 
edge as  to  the  best  place  for  game  or  the  best  way  of  secur- 
ing it,  there  is  little  hope  that  others  will  succeed. 

TuppER  Lake  House  is  on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  near 
its  south  end.  It  is  about  35  miles,  as  the  way  goes,  from 
Saranac  Lake  (station),  and  can  be  reached  from  that  direction 
during  the  summer  by  rowboat,  making  a  pleasant  day's 
journey.  The  opening  up  of  this  section  by  the  Northern 
Adirondack  Railroad,  penetrating  to  the  wildest  portion  of  the 
wilderness,  comes  as  a  surprise  to  people  generally  and  the  ex- 
cellent train  service  maintained  makes  it  possible  to  leave  New 
York  in  the  evening  at  6:25  and  reach  the  Tupper  Lake  House 


TUPPER  Lake.  109-G 

in  time  for  dinner  the  next  day.  Fare  from  New  York  to 
Tupper  Lake,  $12.40;  round  trip,  $22.25.  ^^  ^s  a  source  of 
considerable  surprise  to  visitors  who  had  thought  to  bury  them- 
selves in  this  far-away  corner  of  the  wilderness,  to  find  a  daily 
mail  maintained,  the  news  of  the  world  in  their  familiar  even- 
ing paper  of  the  day  before  laid  by  their  plate  at  tea  time,  and 
all  the  necessaries  with  many  of  the  perishable  dainties  from 
the  centres  of  civilization  following  them  and  contributing  to 
their  enjoyment  of  the  woodsy  things  which  nature  so  bounti- 
fully provides.  This  may  be  fairly  called  the  geograi)hical 
centre  of  the  wild  lake  region.  It  is  on  the  eastern  edge  of 
the  Mud  Lake  country  which  is  probably  the  least  known  and 
visited  of  any  part  of  the  wilderness.  Dr.  Alfred  L.  Loomis 
says  it  is  "the  best  location  for  sport,  and  as  healthful  as  any 
in  the  Adirondacks,"  and  the  Doctor  is  good  authority  on  both 
questions.  The  house  will  accommodate  about  100  guests. 
It  is  provided  with  open  fire-places  in  parlor  and  principal 
bedrooms,  is  lighted  with  gas,  has  pure  spring  water  brought 
through  pump-logs  from  a  mountain  spring,  and  is  furnished 
comfortably  and  with  the  best  of  beds  throughout. 

John  F.  Hatch,  who  for  a  number  of  years  kept  a  very  ac- 
ceptable farm  house  resort  in  the  Au  Sable  valley,  resurrected 
the  Mt.  Morris  House  from  oblivion,  last  year,  to  make  it  a 
popular  place  once  more,  now  takes  charge  of  larger  interests 
at  the  Tupper  Lake  House.  If  the  earnest  effort  of  the  pro- 
prietor, ably  seconded  by  Mrs.  Hatch  and  the  accomplished 
daughter  of  the  house,  can  make  a  resort  pleasant  and  agree- 
able, no  place  in  the  Wilderness  can  rank  higher  than  the  Tup- 
per Lake  House,  which  is  saying  a  good  deal.  It  will  be 
open  from  May  ist  until  late  into  the  season  of  fall  hunting. 
Price  for  board,  $3.00  per  day;  $14.00  to  $21.00  per  week, 
with  special  rates  for  early  and  late  visitors.  The  supply  and 
provision  store  established  here  for  some  years  will  be  con- 
tinued under  Mr.  Hatch,  who  will  furnish  New  York  goods  at 
!  New  York  retail  prices  with  the  cost  or  transportation  only 
added. 

The  ^'  Lakeside  Club,"  of  New  York,  who  own  the  property, 


o 
X 

< 

04 

Ed 
Oi 

ti 


Hiawatha   House.  i  i  i 

come  here  annually  and  occupy  private  rooms  in  the  building 
set  aside  for  their  special  service. 

Little  Tupper  Lake  is  an  easy  half  day's  journey  at  the 
south,  the  most  tedious  part  of  this  way  being  the  two-mile 
carry  from  Bog  River  into  Round  Pond,  where  the  thrifty 
wagoner  will  charge  you  $2.00  for  boat  and  luggage. 

********** 

The  Hiawatha  House  is  at  the  south  end  of  Indian 
Carry,  delightfully  located  among  the  trees  on  the  north  side 
of  the  first  of  the  Stony  Creek  Ponds.  Here  it  is  wild  on 
every  side.  Deer  come  to  feed  about  the  borders  of  the 
lakelet,  and  when  followed  by  dogs  often  take  to  its  waters. 
Charles  Wardner  who  came  as  manager  first  is  now  proprietor 
of  the  Hiawatha  House.  He  is  affable  and  ready  in  service, 
aud  has  earned  for  himself  very  high  praise  from  new  guests, 
and  a  reputation  that  calls  back  many  old  friends.  He  has 
made  a  success  out  of  this  place  which,  possessing  many  de- 
sirable features,  was  for  lack  of  just  such  a  man  for  many 
years  a  dismal  failure.  The  house  will  provide  for  about  30 
guests.  Post-office  address,  Wawbeek.  Conveyance  across 
the  Indian  Carry  from  this  point  costs  75  cents  for  boat  and 
luggage. 

Stony  Creek  Ponds  are  three  in  number.  The  first  and 
third  are  small ;  the  middle  one  about  a  mile  the  longest  way. 
A  fancied  resemblance  to  a  familiar  article  has  led  to  their 
being  occasionally  called  "  Spectacle  "  Ponds. 

Stony  Creek,  applied  to  the  outlet  of  the  ponds,  is  a 
misnomer.  It  is  about  three  miles  long,  slow,  sluggish,  and 
winding.  Its  marshy  shores  are  lined  with  tall  grass  and  the 
sprawling,  ragged,  swamp-maples,  which  seem  to  flourish  best 
in  a  watery  soil.  From  its  mouth,  down  the  Raquette  to  Big 
Tupper  Lake,  is  20  miles ;  to  Raquette  Falls,  seven.  Ra- 
quette Falls  is  12  to  15  feet  in  height,  with  one  mile  of  rapid 
water  above. 

Raquette  Falls  Hotel  of  to-day  is  a  much  more  preten- 
tious house  than  the  one  of  old  in  the  days  of  "  Mother  John- 
son."    It  will  provide  for  30  guests,  and  affords  a  general  stop- 


112  The  Adirondacks. 

ping  place  for  those  who  would  indulge  in  the  excellent  hunt- 
ing and  fishing  of  this  section.  It  usually  divides  the  long 
stretch  between  the  Saranacs  and  Long  Lake  with  a  substantial 
dinner  (75  cents),  or  a  welcome  night's  rest  to  the  round  trip- 
per. Now  instead  of  the  old  stone-boat  drawn  by  oxen,  buck- 
boards  on  which  the  voyager  can  ride  comfortably  under  the 
shadow  of  his  inverted  boat,  cross  the  intervening  i^  miles  to 
the  navigable  waters  above.  Each  passenger  is  charged  50 
cents,  and  each  boat  with  its  baggage,  $1.50.  Board  $2.  per 
day  $12.  per  week,  Wm.  McClelland  proprietor,  P.  O.Wawbeek. 
Resuming  once  more  if  you  please,  the  thread  of  our  oft- 
broken  narrative,  we  will  proceed  on  our  journey  southward. 
When  we  followed  the  ox-sled  over  the  carry  in  1873,  a  steam- 
boat whistle  had  never  been  heard  in  this  region  ;  since  then 
they  have  signalled  each  other  across  the  cany,  and  a  regular 


UP   THE    RAQUETTE. 


line  is  a  possibility  of  the  near  future.     The  river  is  wonderfu| 
in  its  solemn  beauty.     The  water  in  the  shallows  is  amber,  a|| 
a  greater  depth  red,  then  a  rich  brown.     Here  it  appears  almostj, 
like  ink  in  its  blackness.     Sluggish  in  motion,  it  fills  its  bed  an# 
seems  fairly  to  round  up  in  the  centre.     Great,  shaggy,  twisted  ! 
cedars  line  its  banks,  their  branches  reaching  out  toward  the 
light  and   downward   toward   the  water,  the  sides  away  from 
the  river  limbless  and  verdueless.   So  still  it  runs  that  it  appears 
more  like  a  river  of  black  glass  than  water.     It  has  undermined 
the  trees  until  they  have  fallen  over  and  stand  at  every  con- 
ceivable  angle,  and,  while  yielding,  they  have  curled  upward 
with  the  even  sweep  of  a  scimeter,  while  the   smaller  limbs, 
seemingly  alarmed  at  their  too  near  approach  to  the  water, 
grow  back  upon  themselves  and  hang  in  great  hooks  and  solid 
festoons  from  their  leaning  supports,  the  whole  mirrored  in  the 

. 

I 


The  Adirondacks,  113 

glassy  surface  where  we  seem  to  float  midway  between  the 
heavens  above  and  the  heavens  below. 

About  five  miles  abov^e  Raquette  Falls,  Cold  River,  coming 
down  from  Mount  Seward  on  the  east,  supplies  by  considerable, 
the  largest  volume  of  the  two  streams  which  here  meet.  Above 
this  we  pick  our  way  carefully.  We  have  left  the  cedars,  passed 
through  the  maples,  now  stripped  of  their  foliage,  and  come 
out  on  a  natural  meadow,  where  the  coarse  hay  is  cut  and 
piled  up  on  platforms,  there  to  stay  until  the  ice  shall  render 
it  accessible.  Over  the  shallow  outlet  we  go,  through  the  tall 
grass,  where  mounds  of  sticks  and  reeds  show  the  presence 
of  a  colony  of  muskrats,  out  into  Long  Lake,  past  the  Lsland 
House,  where  a  jolly  party  of  spiritual  fellows  are  having 
a  loud  time,  and  well  on  into  the  night,  rap  for  admission  at  the 
door  of  the  Long  Lake  Hotel. 

Long  Lake  is  nearly  14  miles  in  length  and  about  i  mile 
in  width  at  the  widest  part,  which  is  near  its  outlet.  It  runs  in 
a  northeasterly  direction,  receives  the  waters  of  the  Raquette 
River  at  its  head  and  gives  them  up  to  the  Raquette  River  at 
its  foot,  which,  flowing  northward,  and  passing  within  about  2 
miles  of  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  turns  toward  the  west,  touching 
the  foot  of  Tupper  Lake,  thence  northwesterly  past  Potsdam  to 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

Long  Lake  contains  several  islands ;  one,  nearly  midway  in 
its  length,  is  called  Round  Island,  and  resembles  Dome  Island 
of  Lake  George. 

The  Island  House,  near  the  outlet,  affords  entertainment 
to  such  as  may  at  any  time  from  choice  or  necessity  be  at  this 
end  of  the  lake. 

Owl's  Head  Mountain,  near  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  the 
west,  is  marked  on  the  map  as  being  2,82^  feet  above  tide ;  but 
as  Long  Lake  is  1,614  above  tide,  this  isn't  much  of  a  mountain 
after  all.  To  the  west  the  country  is  comparatively  level ;  on 
the  east  is  Mount  Kempshall  ;  on  the  north  is  seen  the  blue 
serrated  summit  of  Mount  Seward,  4,384  feet  above  tide. 

A  number  of  private  camps  are  scattered  along  the  lake, 
notably  those  of  Senator  Piatt  and  of  Rev.  Dr.  Duryea,  near  the 
north  end.  Toward  the  south  end  some  considerable  attempts 
have  been  made  at  cultivation.  The  land,  however, while  apparent- 


ii4  The  Adirondacks. 

ly  promising  well,  is  cold  and  poorly  adapted  to  farming   pur- 
poses. 

The  Lake  House  appears  first  on  the  left  as  we  approach  , 
from  the  north.  It  is  one  of  those  quiet  lakeside  resorts  that  | 
supplies  the  sportsman  with  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  is 
the  gathering-place  of  the  hunter,  the  fisherman,  and  of  the 
sturdy  guide.  The  house  is  three  stories  high,  with  a  double 
piazza,  facing  the  lake.  It  has  an  advertised  capacity  for  60 
guests.  Rates,  $2.00  per  day,  $10.00  to  $12.00  per  week. 
The  house  is  under  the  management  of  Mrs.  C  H.  Kellogg 
who  for  a  number  of  years  has  very  exceptably  filled  the 
position  as  hostess  at  this  place.  Stage  runs  daily  to  Blue 
Mountain  Lake  to  North  Creek  to  connect  with  the  evening 
train  south.     Fare  to  railroad,  $4.00. 

In  front  of  the  house  is  a  sandy  beach,  that  extends  down 
into  the  water,  at  the  north,  the  long  stretch  of  picturesque 
lake,  while  just  south  is  a  pretty  little  bay,  protected  on  all 
sides,  where  the  children  can  boat  and  fish  to  their  heart's 
content.  The  road  from  the  east  crosses  the  lake  here,  over  a 
long,  floating  bridge,  which  has  a  raised  section  to  admit  of 
the  passage  of  small  boats  underneath. 

The  Sagamore,  which  stood  on  the  high  bluff  south  of  the 
Lake  House  caught  fire  November  30th,  1889,  and  was  totally 
destroyed.  It  is  expected  it  will  be  rebuilt  and  ready  for  occu- 
pancy in  1 89 1. 

Long  Lake  (village)  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake  a  half 
mile  away,  and  three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  south  end. 
Long  Lake  lumbers  some,  farms  some,  trades  a  little,  hunts 
and  guides  extensively,  and  makes  sporting  boats  of  recog- 
nized build  and  superior  quality.  From  its  somewhat  isolated 
position  and  its  lack  of  proper  transportation  facilities  and 
accommodations  in  the  past,  Long  Lake  has  been  neglected 
by  the  sportsman. 

The  Long  Lake  Hotel,  Helms  &  Smith,  proprietors,  is 
situated  at  the  village.  This  house  is  open  the  year  round 
and  provides  for  man  and  beast  at  a  moderate  price.       Mails 


Long  Lake.  jic 

arrive  and  depart  daily.  Stage  (Concord  wagon,  Theron 
Smith,  proprietor)  runs  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake  during  the 
season,  leaving  in  the  morning  and  returning  in  the  afternoon. 
Travelers  may  leave  New  York  on  the  6:25  Adirondack 
sleeper,  and  reach  Long  Lake  the  next  day  at  about  6  p.  m. 
The  distance  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  by  stage  road,  is  nine 
miles.     Fare,  $1.50. 

A  number  of  gentlemen  have  secured  for  a  Preserve  4,000 
acres  ofland  lying  on  both  shores  of  the  lake  some  distance 
north  of  Round  Island  and  offer  through  their  agent,  camp  and 
villa  sights  of  lo-acre  lots  each,  including  the  game  and  forest 
privilege  of  the  entire  tract,  on  a  three  or  five  years  lease 
with  the  privilege  of  purchasing  at  from  $250  to  $500 
any  time  during  its  continuance.  Application  for  purchase 
or  lease  may  be  made  to  Hazard  Stevens,  Esq.,  85  Deavon- 
shire  Street,  Boston,  Mass,  or  to  M.  R.  Sutton,  Agent,  Long 
Lake,  N.  Y. 

The  Grove  House  is  about  two  miles  south  of  the   float- 
ing bridge  in  a  grove  of  tall  pines  on  the  abrupt  eastern  bank 
of  the  lake,  seven  miles  from   Raquette  and  nine  miles   from 
Blue  Mountain  lake,  capacity  of  house,  50,  rates,    $2.50   per 
day,  $10.00   to   $14.00  per  week,  David  Helms,  proprietor. 
Pleasant  features  of  the  place  are  its  open  camps  and  cottages 
with  open  fire  places.     Special  rates  are  offered  to  parties   re- 
maining any  considerable  time.     Mr.  Helms  is  a  noted  guide 
and  hunter  and  his  house  is  a  favorite  resort  for   hunters    and 
fishermen,  who  know  that  his  experience  and  advice    may   be 
rehed  upon.     He  knows  where  the   trout,    the    bass   and   the 
pickerel  are  to  be  found   in   their   season ;    where   the    duck 
5wims,  and  the  partridge  hides,  and   the   deer  runs,   and   his 
knowledge  is  freely  placed  at  the  service  of  his  visitors. 

The  distance  from  the  Grove  House  to  Blue  Mountain 
ake,  through  Forked  and  Raquette  lakes,  by  boat,  is 
ibout  ^^  miles.  For  the  last-named  route  a  guide  will  be  re- 
[uired  as  far  as  Raquette  Lake,  where  steamers  are  taken  for 
Mue  Mountain  Lake. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Schoolmaster 


E  SENT  our  Saranac  guide  back,  ana  m- 
quired  for  one  who  understood  the  Ra- 
quette  Lake  region. 

"  I  know  the  man  ycu  want,'*  said  oar 
host,  in  a  way  as  though  he  felt  himself  re- 
sponsible for  our  future  happiness;  "Chai 
ley  Blanchard  knows  all  about  it,  just  came 
from  that  region  day  before  yesterday.  I'll 
send  for  him." 

He  did  so,  and  soon  a  little  fellow  in  a 
Garabaldian  shirt  stood  before  us.  Think- 
ing of  the  work  a  guide  is  expected  to  do, 
It  seemed  as  though  this  one  was  meant  for  a  jcfke  or  an  orna- 
mental head  that  we  would  have  to  carry  over  the  rough 
places.  Kellogg  must  have  noticed  the  look  of  surprise  oa 
our  faces,  for,  taking  me  aside,  he  said : 

"  Oh,  he's  all  right ;  knows  the  country  better'n  I  do  my 
house,  and  will  take  you  right  every  time." 

••  Carry  a  boat  too  ?  "  I  asked,  incredulously  gazing  at  the 
slight  figure. 

"  Yes,  sir!  carried  a  boat,  oars  and  all,  over  the  same  route 
a  day  or  two  ago.  Then  he  can  learn  you  something  —  tell 
you  all  you  want  to  know.  There's  no  need  of  his  gliding  at 
all,  only  he  likes  it  I  tell  you  what,  sir,  he's  qualified  for  bet- 
ter things.     He's — a — school — master ! ! !  " 

Of  course  we  were  overwhelmed,  and  engaged  the  school- 
master at  once,  finding  him  a  willing  worker,  a  pleasant 
companion  and  an  exceptionally  good  g^ide  —  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  the  region  through  which  we  were  traveling. 

Four  miles  from  Kellogg's  we  came  to  the  rapids.  Here  the 
professor  and  myself  took  the  loose  articles,  and  the  school' 


ii8  The  Adirondacks. 

master  started  off  with  the  boat  over  his  head,  looking  like  a 
huge,  inverted,  pickle-dish  on  a  pair  of  legs. 

Reader,  did  you  ever  assist  over  one  of  these  portages  in 
the  forests,  where  the  path  never  dries,  and 
the  decayed  leaves  and  vegetable  mould 
makes  a  bottom  of  black  muck,  with  rocks 
land  roots  projecting  above  the  surface;  which 
'same  are  stepping-places  for  the  skillful,  but 
Jfearful  traps  for  the  unwary? 

The  guide  takes  the  boat,  and  you  are  ex- 
pected to  carry  the  lighter  articles.  You  ad- 
mire him  as  he  starts  off  lightly  along  the  slippery  way.  Your 
soul  swells  with  conscious  freedom,  and  you  snuff  in  inspi- 
ration and  black  flies  by  the  mouthful.  You  gather  up  the 
oars,  paddle,  guns,  fishrods,  etc.,  and  step  out  determined  to 
show  .that  you,  too,  are  a  natural  woodsman.  How  exhilar- 
ating the  action  !  You  spring  from  rock  to  rock,  watching 
your  feet  that  they  may  not  get  the  start  of  you ;  for  the  solid 
bottom  may  be  anywhere  from  two  inches  to  two  feet  below 
the  surface.  Soon  you  are  busy  dodging  the  bushes,  that 
scratch  your  hands  and  slap  your  face  without  the  slightest 
provocation;  and,  after  a  while,  you  observe  that  the  oars 
and  other  things  are  getting  heavy,  and  are  on  a  tender  place. 
You  change,  and  make  it  worse.  Then  you  find  they  have 
got  into  a  disagreeable  habit  of  spreading  out  at  various 
angles — of  going  on  one  side  of  a  tree  when  you  had  de- 
signed to  pass  on  the  other;  and  you  back  up  for  another 
start.  You  wrench  your  back  and  get  a  crick  in  the  neck  in 
the  struggle.  The  guide  is  disappearing  through  the  trees  in 
the  distance.  Surprise,  perspiration,  determination,  and  cob- 
webs, appear  on  your  face ;  and  the  things  on  your  shoulder 
hurt  more,  and  sprawl  about  worse  than  ever.  You  are  con- 
scious of  an  expression  like  anything  but  a  master  of  the  situ- 
ation; and  your  load  looks,  for  all  the  world,  like  a  fully-ex- 
tended umbrella  denuded  of  its  covering.  You  try  in  vain  to 
dodge   the   various    branches   that   are   making   unprovoked 


The  Carry.  119 

lunges  at  you.  The  vines  trip  you,  the  stones  sh'p  from  be- 
neath your  feet,  and  roots  that  look  solid  give  way  and  let 
you  down.  You  are  getting  careless  of  results, 
and  take  chances  that  do  not  always  turn  out 
well.  You  step  on  one  end  of  a  root,  and  the 
other  end  comes  up  and  pitches  a  quart  or  so  of 
mud  in  your  face.  You  forget  to  select  a  safe 
place  for  the  next  step ;  your  foot  glides  gently 
down,  and  disappears  in  the  inky  depths;  and, 
in  resurrecting  it,  the  other  one  goes  under. 
The  chances  are  that  about  this  time  you  begin  to  talk  to 
yourself;  and  the  tenor  of  your  remarks  depends  something  on 
how  you  were  brought  up. 

Grimly  you  plow  forward  now ;  for  you  are  certain  that  the 
worst  has  come,  and  care  nothing  how  many  trees  you  over- 
turn in  your  course.  Then  a  sapling  on  either  side  catches  an 
oar,  and  they  shut  up  on  your  aching  neck  like  a  pair  of 
shears,  a  friendly  limb  lifts  your  hat,  and  drops  it  in  the  mud 
right  where  you  was  going  to  step,  and,  to  save  your  hat,  you 
make  some  playful  passes  in  various  ways,  one  foot  gets  on 
top  of  the  other;  then  they  wander  off  in  different  directions, 
and  you  sit  down. 

It  is  a  delightful  sensation  to  sit  aown  —  .n  the  wild  woods 
—  after  violent  exercise  —  and  rest.  Gentle  zephyrs  steal  re- 
freshingly across  your  brow,  and  black  mud  insinuatingly 
through  the  pores  of  your  trousers,  /t  such  a  moment  as 
this,  f  ee  from  the  thraldom  of  civilization,  in  the  solemn  still- 
ness of  the  mighty  forests,  with  a  soul  attuned  to  its  inspiring 
harmony,  some  well-remembered  passage,  learned  in  youth- 
tide,  comes  welling  up  from  your  joyous  heart.  Sometimes, 
however,  Bible  quotations  get  somewhat  mixed,  and  a  disin- 
terested beholder  would  be  apt  to  misconstrue  your  devotional 
expressions.  At  such  an  hour  as  this,  the  most  a  man  wants 
is  undemonstrative  sympathy.  Such  episodes,  however,  are 
the  spice  that  season  the  dish  of  glorious  things  served  up 
here  among  the  mountains  and  lakes  of  the  great  wilderness. 


I20  The  Adirondacks. 

A  half-mile  carry  brought  us  to  still  water;  then  a  short  dis- 
tance of  boating  to  Buttermilk  Falls  (which  also  lays  claim  to 
being  Murray's  "Phantom  Falls")  where  the  water  dashes 
and  foams  down  over  the  rocks,  making  a  descent  of  about 
20  feet  —  and  the  name,  though  not  very  poetical,  was  prob- 
ably suggested  by  the  churning  it  gets  in  reaching  the  bottom. 

"Murray  talk  about  shooting  these  falls  in  his  boat,  in  pur- 
suit of  the  phantom  form,  is  a  very  probable  story  for  a  min- 
ister to  tell,"  said  the  schoolmaster  with  a  shrug.  "Why,  I 
drove  a  brood  of  ducks  down  over  there  once.  The  old  one 
knew  better  than  to  go — she  flew  up  stream;  but  they  —  a 
dozen  of  young  ones  —  went  over,  and  only  three  came  out 
alive.  He  talk  of  doing  it !  There  isn't  Baptist  enough 
about  him  to  do  it  —  but  there's  one  thing  he  can  *  shoot;' 
that's  the  long  bow."  Alas  for  Mr.  Murray's  reputation  for 
veracity !  The  beautiful  creations  of  his  fancy,  the  bright 
pictures  conjured  up  by  his  fertile  brain,  are  held  as  witnesses 
against  him,  simply  because  he,  in  his  lavish  generosity,  has 
enriched  the  common  occurrences  of  every-day  life  in  the 
woods,  wi(h  the  precious  incense  of  conceptive  genius,  and 
left  a  dazzled  world  to  separate  the  real  from  the  ideal.  The 
guides  took  him  literally  as  he  said;  and,  although  then  in  the 
high  tide  of  his  popularity,  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  if 
his  preaching  was  not  a  better  guide  to  heaven  than  his  book 
to  the  Adirondacks  his  congregation  might  have  managed  to 
woiry  through  with  a  cheaper  man. 

We  put  the  boat  into  the  deep,  quiet  water  above  the  falls, 
and  went  upward  a  mile  and  a  half;  then  a  portage  of  the 
same  distance  brought  us  to  Forked  Lake. 

Forked  Lake  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water,  about  five  miles 
in  length,  and  appropriately  named.  The  shore  is  compara- 
tively straight  along  on  the  south  side;  but  on  the  north  it  is 
an  irregular  lire,  which,  as  you  approach  the  centre,  opens 
up  into  a  far-reaching  bay  —  itself  the  main  branch  on  which 
is  strung  a  succession  of  deep  bays,  with  intervening  points  ex- 
tending from  east  to  west.     "  The  Cedars,"  belonging  to  F.  C. 


Raquette  Lake.  121 

Durant  of  New  York,  situated    near  the  head  of  this  bay,  is 
one  of  the  elegant  private  camps  of  the  wilderness. 

Forked  Lake  House  looks  into  this  north  bay  from  the 
south  shore.  This  is  included  in  the  property  recently  ac- 
quired by  the  Hamilton  Park  Club,  which  takes  in  the  north- 
ern half  of  township  35  and  all  of  36,  extending  beyond  Lit- 
tle Tupper  Lake.  Transient  visitors  can  procure  meals  here, 
but  no  permanent  guests  will  be  taken  except  members  of  the 
club  and  their  friends.  It  is  intended  that  a  handsome  struc- 
ture shall  in  time  take  the  place  of  the  old  house.  David 
Helms,  of  the  Grove  House,  is  manager.  For  the  Bottle 
Pond  route  to  Tupper  Lake  Region  see  page  209. 

Raquette  Lake  is  at  the  south.  Its  outlet  is  through  the 
long  arm,  which  extends  east,  nearly  parallel  with  the  south 
shore  of  Forked  Lake,  into  which  it  empties.  From  the 
Forked  Lake  House  the  road  crosses  to  the  steamboat  land- 
ing on  Raquette  Lake,  about  a  half-mile  distant.  It  is  a 
great  mass  of  bays,  separated  by  far-reaching  points,  extending 
nearly  east  and  west.  Its  greatest  length  is  but  about  f\ve 
miles,  measured  through  islands  and  intervening  headlands ; 
yet  so  irregular  is  its  shape  that  the  shore  line,  in  its  devious 
windings,  is  over  40  miles  in  extent. 

It  is  said  that  the  first  house  built  at  Raquette  Lake  stood 
on  Indian    Point;  the  next  one  at  Wood's  Point,  where  an 
effort  was  made  at  farming.     A  twenty  years'  struggle,  however, 
ended  in  its  abandonment ;  and,  when  we  passed  by,  in  1873, 
only  one  lone  man— old  Alva  Dunning,  hving  Robinson  Cru- 
soe like  on  Osprey  Island,— reigned  monarch  of  the  beautiful 
lake.     Then  the  Sabbath  stillness  was  broken  only  by  an  occa- 
sional party  in  camp  or  passing  boat.     There  was    no  puffing 
steamer  to  carry  us  to  our  destination— only  our  gallant  little 
pedagogue— who  conducted  us   over   the  waters  of  the  Ra- 
quette, up  the  tortuous  windings  of  the   Marion  River,  along 
through  Utowana  Lake,  across  Eagle  Lake,  in  the  gathering 
darkness  ;  and  finally,  up  the  uneven   slope,  to   find  weleome 
and  rest  in  the  "  Eagle's  Nest,"  once    the  wilderness  home  of 
Ned  Buntline. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
"The  Eagle's  Nest." 

Where  the  silvery  gleam  of  the  rushing  streui 
Is  so  brightly  seen  on  the  rocks  dark  green, 
Where  the  white  pink  grows  by  the  wild  red  roM 
And  the  blue  bircf'^ings  till  the  welkin  rings. 

Where  the  red  deer  leaps  and  the  panther  creeps. 
And  the  eagles  scream  over  cliff  and  stream. 
Where  the  lilies  bow  their  heads  of  snow. 
And  the  hemlocks  tall  throw  a  shade  o'er  all. 

Where  the  rolling  surf  laves  the  emerald  turf. 
Where  the  trout  leaps  high  at  the  hovering  fly. 
Where  the  sportive  fawn  crops  the  sofl  green  lawn. 
And  the  crows'  shrill  cry  bodes  a  tempest  nigh- 
There  is  my  home  —  my  wildwood  home. 


Ned  Buntline,*  author  of  the  above  sweet  lines  that 
seem  to  rise  upward  like  the  joyous  song  of  a  wild  bird, 
bringing  thoughts  of  wild  violets  and  the  fragrance  of 
dewy  forests  in  it^  train— this  strange  man,  with  the 
blending  natures  of  the  tiger  and  the  lark— came  here 
in  1856,  and  here  wrote,  and  hunted,  and  filled  the  mind 
of  the  public  with  wild  reports  of  his  erratic  doings 
to  his  heart's  content.  He  made  the  "  Eagle's  Nest "  his 
home  for  some  time,  married  a  wife  and  buried  her  here, 
and  then  he  tired  of  the  old  place  and  drifted  out  into 
the  world  again. 


*"The  Life  and  Adventures  of  Ned   Buntline,"  by  Will  Wildwood    is  now 
being  published  in  serial  form  in  M^i/d^vood  s  Magazine.  "^''^^o^a,  is  now 


"Ned  Buntline.'* 


12 


Ned  had  earned  his  spurs  in  Florida  and  Mexico,  and 
when  the  war  cloud  broke  over  the  houth,  his  restless,  ven- 
turesome spirit  called  him  to    the  field  once  more.     Five 

wounds  by  sabre  and  bul- 
let, one  of  which  has  made 
him  lame  for  life,  testify  to 
the  service  done  for  the 
country  he  served  proudly 
and  gladly,  while  with  fine 
scorn  he  refused  tiie  prof- 
fered pension,  and  since,  at 
intervals,  as  novelist,  dram- 
atist, actor  and  temperance 
advocate  has  filled  the  pub- 
lic mind  like  —  no  one  un- 
the  sun  but  only  -'Ned 
tline  "  the  irrepressible. 
But  the  old  eagle  had 
flown,  and  other  birds  of 
prey  occupied  tlie  nest  when  we  came,  guided  by  its  wel- 
come light,  through  the  October  darkness  to  claim  shelter 
for  the  night.  It  was  then  the  only  house  of  entertain- 
ment on  the  Eckford  Chain,  of  which  Eagle  Lake  is  the 
middle  link,  and  afforded  a  stopping  place  for  sportsmen  dur- 
ing summer  and  for  lumbermen  in  winter.    This  lake  is  very 


^^^-^sfe.  £ 


NED    BUNTLINH. 


•  Edward  Z.  C.  Judson  ("  Ned  Buntline  ")  was  born  at  Stamford,  N.  Y.,  March  20^ 
1823.  His  adventurous  career  began  in  early  childhood.  He  killed  his  first  dee 
when  eight  years  of  age,  ran  off  to  sea  at  eleven,  was  promoted  to  midshipman  when 
only  thirteen,  the  same  year  fought  seven  duels  with  fellow-midshipmen  who  refused 
to  mess  with  him  on  account  of  his  supposed  inferiority,  and  threatened  to  deplete 
the  whole  budding  navy  unless  he  was  acknowledged  as  an  equal ;  the  navy  wilted. 
He  served  with  credit  in  the  Seminole  war,  in  the  Mexican  war,  and  in  the  great  Re- 
bellion. His  first  story,  "  The  Captain's  Pig,  '  was  published  in  his  fifteenth  year.  As 
a  writer  'of  "  Frontier  Fiction  "  he  was  unexcelled.  Buffalo  Bill,  Texas  Jack,  and 
Wild  Bill  were  made  famous  by  his  stories  of  border  life.  His  income  as  a  story  writer 
amounted  to  $20,000  annually.  His  literary  productions  would  make  more  than  two 
hundred  large  volumes.  He  was  foremost  in  organizing  the  order  of  "  United  Ameri- 
cans" and  the  "Patriotic  Order  Sons  of  America."  He  died  July  16,  1886,  at  hii 
mountain  home,  the  "  Eacle's  Nest,"  in  Delaware  Co..  N.  Y 


124  The  Adirondacks. 

pretty,  and  about  one  mile  long.  It  receives  the  waters  of 
Blue  Mountain  Lake  at  its  east  end ;  and  this  stream,  which 
was  then  too  shallow  to  float  us  in  our  loaded  boat,  is  now 
the  thoroughfare  of  the  little  steamers  that  ply  these  waters. 
(For  matter  relating  to  Blue  Mountain  and  Raquette  Lakes, 
see  page  199.)  Across  Blue  Mountain  Lake  we  went,  and 
rested  on  its  west  shore,  35  miles  from  Long  Lake  by  the 
roundabout  way  which  we  have  come,  but  only  about  five 
miles  away  over  the  mountains. 

The  schoolmaster  decided  the  question  of  which  rouLe  to 
take  back  by  shouldering  his  boat  and  starting  up  over  the 
mountain.  The  path  was  a  gradual  ascent  for  a  distance, 
then  led  through  a  long  reach  of  swamp  and  open  meadow- 
land,  where  the  springy  surface  of  matted  grass  and  interlaced 
roots  shook  and  bent  over  unknown  depths  of  black  muck; 
then  we  descended  into  the  forest-embowered  waters  of  South 
Pond ;  across  South  Pond  to  its  outlet ;  thence  to  Long  Lake, 
and,  by  boat,  to  the  hotel ;  after  which  we  chartered  seats  in 
a  farmer's  wagon,  and  went  east  to  Newcomb  to  spend  the 
Sabbath. 

Newcomb  is  14  miles  from  Long  Lake,  27  miles  from  Root's 
and  29  from  North  Creek.  Stages  run  three  times  a  week. 
At  Root's,  connection  is  made  with  stage  to  and  from  Port 
Henry  and  Schroon  Lake.  Newcomb  is  one  of  the  oldest 
settled  sections  in  the  wilderness ;  is  quiet  and  comfortable, 
and  affords  good  hunting  and  fishing. 

The  Wayside  Inn  and  The  Half-way  House  aftord 
limited  accommodations  for  visitors.   Price  of  board  unknown. 

Washington  Chase  is  postmaster,  job  printer,  and  dealer  in 
drugs  and  general  merchandise,  and  one  of  the  enterprising 
men  of  the  town.  There  is  a  water  route,  leading  from  this 
point,  through  Rich  and  CatHn  Lakes,  to  Long  Lake,  striking 
the  latter  near  its  outlet. 


I 


CHAPTER  X. 


*'  On  the  Tramp." 

HUS  far  our  travels  had  been  principally  by 
carriage  of  some  kind  or  by  boat.  We  had 
passed  almost  around  the  great  peaks  but  had 
not  been  among  them.  The  mountains  that 
now  looked  down  on  us  from  the  north  we  had 
viewed  from  the  other  side  and  from  the 
west.  We  had  made  a  loop  of  over  40  miles 
in  the  trip  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake  and  back 
to  Long  Lake,  then  east  to  Newcomb.  Now 
we  must  trust  to  our  feet  to  carry  us  where 
neither  boat  nor  horse  could  go,  and  thanks 
to  the  pure  air,  and  our  initiatory  struggles 
over  the  various  carries,  we  felt  equal  to  the  task.  So,  on 
Monday  morning,  with  knapsacks  strapped  on  our  backs,  we 
left  Newcombs  for  Adirondack,  the  ruined  village  among  the 
mountains,  eighteen  miles  distant. 

Soon  we  saw  an  old  friend,  the  Hudson  River,  here  so  nar- 
row that  in  places  we  could  almost  jump  across  it.  From  the 
north  it  came,  moving  sluggishly  along  between  dark  balsams 
that  lined  its  banks.  Away  over  beyond  rested  the  faint  blue 
crest  of  Tahawas,  *'  the  cloud  splitter." 

"  Tahawas,"  so  called  on  the  maps  and  in  the  postal  depart- 
ments, is  generally  spoken  of  here  as  the  "lower  works,"  to 
distiguish  it  from  the  upper  Adirondack  village  ;  once  there 
were  extensive  buildings  at  this  place  ;  a  long  dam  across  the 
Hudson,  here  called  the  "  North  River,"  flooding  the  valley 
back  to  the  outlet  of  Lake  Sanford,  and  barges  floating  be- 


126  The  Adirondacks. 

tween  the  upper  and  lower  village,  carrying  provisions  up  and 
the  ore  down.  There  was  but  one  house  standing  there  when 
we  came.  This  was  occupied  by  John  Cheney  the  "  Mighty 
Hunter  "  who  we  had  hoped  to  see  but  could  not  as  he  was  away 
hunting  at  the  time.  This  house  was  burned  the  year  follow- 
ing (1874)  and  the  Adirondack  Club  House,  where  entertain- 
ment is  now  offered  to  the  passing  visitor,  built  afterwards. 

After  dinner  we  followed  along  up  the  road  on  the  west  side 
of  the  valley.  About  halfway  up,  the  foot  of  Lake  Sanford 
is  reached.  This  lake  is  four  miles  long  with  low  marshy 
shores  here  and  there,  punctuated  by  round  hills  and  knobby 
points.  Just  above  the  head  of  Lake  Sanford  is  the  "  new 
forge."  The  huge  building  that  inclosed  is  gone  now,  but  the 
great  stone  furnace,  forty  feet  square  at  its  base,  stands  firm 
and  solid  as  when  made. 

The  history  of  the  place  is  brief  and  sad.  In  1826  Messrs. 
Henderson,  McMartin  and  Mclntire,  who  owned  and  operated 
iron-works  at  North  Elba,  were  shown  by  an  Indian,  a  piece 
of  ore  of  remarkable  purity,  which  he  said  came  from  a  place 
where  ''water  run  over  dam,  me  find  plenty  all  same."  The 
services  of  the  Indian  were  secured  at  once,  at  the  rate  of  two 
shillings  and  what  tobacco  he  could  use  per  day,  to  conduct 
them  to  the  place  spoken  of.  They  found,  as  the  Indian  had 
said,  where  the  water  literally  poured  over  an  iron  dam.  Has- 
tening to  Albany,  a  tract  of  land  embracing  the  principal  ore 
beds  in  that  vicinity,  was  secured,  forges  built,  and  a  road  cut 
from  the  lower  works  to  Lake  Champlain. 

The  ore  was  rich  but  the  expense  of  transportation  to  market 
swallowed  all  the  profits,  the  enterprise  proving  a  financial 
failure.  Still  it  was  persevered  in  until  the  death  of  Mr. 
Henderson,  who  was  killed  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  his 
pistol.  He  had  always  had  a  nervous  fear  of  firearms  and  at 
this  time  his  pistol  was  carried  by  the  guide  in  a  pack  which 
he  laid  down  to  perform  some  service  required  of  him. 
Thinking  that  it  lay  in  a  damp  place,  Mr.  Henderson  picked 
the  pack  up  and  dropped  it  on  a  rock  near  by.  With  the 
motion  came  a  sharp  report  from  the  pistol,  the  hammer  of 


The  Adirondacks.  127 

which  had  probably  struck  the  rock  in  faUing.  Mr.  Hender- 
son fell  to  the  ground,  saying  "  I'm  shot,"  and  soon  breathed 
his  last.  The  body  was  borne  out  on  the  shoulders  of  work- 
men, and  afterward  a  beautiful  monument  placed  where  he 
fell,  bearing  the  inscription :  "  Erected  by  filial  affection  to 
the  memory  of  our  dear  father,  David  Henderson,  who  acci- 
dentally lost  his  life  on  this  spot  by  the  premature  discharge 
of  a  pistol,  3d  Sept.,  1845."  The  place  has  since  been  called 
Calamity  Pond.     In  the  death  of  Mr.  Henderson  the  motive 

power  was  r  e- 
moved, and  three 
years  after  h  i  s 
death  the  works 
were  abandoned. 
When  the  writer 
first  visited  that 
ADIRONDACK  IN  1873.  sectioii  there  was 

an  old  Scotchman  and  family  in  charge,  who  cared  for  the 
property  and  took  in  strangers.  And  well  do  I  remember  the 
night  when  they  sent  us  to  sleep  in  one  of  the  deserted  houses 
which  had  the  reputation  of  being  haunted.  We  did  imagine 
that  curious  sounds  were  heard  during  the  night ;  but  whether 
of  some  uneasy  spirit  or  some  poor  dog  that  had  been  robbed 
of  his  nest  we  could  not  tell.  We  quieted  our  fears  and 
consciences,  however,  with  the  reflection  that  if  it  were  a 
ghost  it  would  never  think  of  looking  for  human  beings  in 
that  bed ;  and,  if  a  dog,  he  certainly  hadn't  lost  anything 
worth  mentioning  in  the  operation. 

To-day  but  little  appears  of  the  ruined  village.  All  but 
two  or  three  of  the  buildings  that  stood  therein  1873  have 
been  removed  or  destroyed.  The  ancient  school-house  now 
does  duty  as  a  fish-hatchery,  and  the  old  kilns  are  overgrown 
with  vines  and  shrubbery. 

There  was  something  gruesome  about  the  place  when  we 
approached  in  our  tramp  of '73. 

A  quarter  of  a  century  had  passed  since  the  hum  of  industry 


LAKE  SANFORD 


The  Ruined  Village.  129 

sounded  there.  Where  once  was  heard  the  crash  of  machinery 
and  the  shouts  of  children  at  play,  was  heard  the  shrill  bark  of 
the  fox  or  the  whir  of  the  startled  partridge.  In  place  of  the 
music  of  voices,  was  silence,  solemn  and  ghostly.  Over  the 
mountains  and  the  middle  ground  hung  a  dark  funereal  pall 
of  cloud,  across  which  the  setting  sun  cast  bars  of  ashen  light, 
that  fell  on  the  nearer  buildings,  bringing  out  their  unseemly 
scars  in  ghastly  relief,  and  lay  in  strips  across  the  grass-grown 
street  which  led  away  into  the  shadow.  On  either  side  stood 
cottages  stained  and  blackened  by  time,  with  broken  windows, 
doors  unhinged,  falling  roofs  and  crumbling  foundations.  At 
the  head  of  the  street  was  the  old  furnace,  one  chimney  still 
standing,  one  shattered  by  the  thunder-bolt  in  ruins  at  its 
feet.  The  water-wheel — emblem  of  departed  power — lay  mo- 
tionless, save  as  piece  by  piece  it  fell  away.  Huge  blocks  of 
iron,  piles  of  rusty  ore,  coal  bursting  from  the  crumbling  kilns, 
great  shafts  broken  and  bent,  rotting  timbers,  stones  and  rub- 
bish lay  in  one  common  grave,  over  which  loving  nature  had 
thrown  a  shroud  of  creeping  vines. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  village  was  a  large  house  that  at  one 
time  accommodated  a  hundred  boarders,  now  grim  and  silent. 
Near  by  at  the  left  stood  the  pretty  school-house.  The  steps, 
worn  by  many  little  feet,  had  rotted  and  fallen,  the  windows 
were  almost  paneless,  the  walls  cracked  and  rent  assunder 
where  the  foundation  had  dropped  away,  and  the  doors  yawned 
wide,  seeming  to  say  not  "  welcome"  but  '*  go." 

"  O'er  all  there  hung  a  shadow  and  a  fear, 
A  sense  of  mystery  the  spirit  daunted, 
And  said  as  plain  as  whisper  in  the  ear. 
The  place  is  haunted." 

As  we  advanced  a  dog  appeared  at  the  side  of  the  large 
house  and  howled  dismally,  then,  as  if  frightened  at  the  sound 
of  its  own  voice,  slunk  away  again  out  of  sight.  We  knocked 
at  the  door,  but  no  sound  save  a  hollow  echo  greeted  us  from 
within — that  was  also  deserted.  Then  we  went  out  in  the 
middle  of  the  street  where,  suspended  in  a  tree,  hung  the  bell 
that  used  to   call  the  men  to  work,  and,  on   the  Sabbath,  per- 


I30  The  Adirondacks. 

haps,  the  villagers  to  worship  in  the  little  school-house  near 
by.  Clear  and  sweet,  pure  and  fearless,  its  tones  rang  out 
over  the  forests,  away  to  the  mountains,  then  back  to  us, 
dying  out  in  soft  echoes.  And  with  it  went  the  cloud  that 
had  oppressed  our  spirits. 

We  invited  ourselves  to  enter,  passed  through  the  sounding 
hall  to  the  rear,  foraged  around  until  we  were  satisfied  that 
there  was  no  danger  of  immediate  starvation,  then  we  built  a 
fire  and  set  about  preparing  our  evening  meal — at  which  point 
the  rightful  owners  entered  and  went  through  the  form  of 
making  us  feel  at  home. 

This  is  now  the  headquarters  of  the  Adirondack  Club,  who 
have  leased  and  hold  the  surrounding  territory  as  a  game  and 
fish  preserve  for  the  use  of  themselves  and  friends,    and  while 
their  rules  proclaim  them  a  "  close  corporation,"  no  one  under- 
standing the   circumstances    can   find   reasonable   objection. 
Stringent  regulations  apply  equally  to  all  members  of  the  club. 
No  member  is  permitted  to  hunt  or  fish  outside  the  season  as 
established  by  law,  or  hunt  at  all  except  on  regularly  appointed 
occasions.      The  small   house    at   Tahawus   and   the   larger 
building  at  the  Upper  Works  are    under   competent   manage- 
ment, and  although  primarily  intended   for   the   accommoda- 
tions of  the  club,  provide  excellent  fare  for  the  chance  visitor. 
Price  of  accommodations  is  fixed  by   the   club   at   $3.00   per 
day  for  all  persons  except  guides  and  servants,  and  no  person 
not  a  member  of  the  club  or  their  guests,  will  be   entertained 
for  more  than  a  single  night  unless  under  pressing   conditions. 
Parties  who  go  through  Avalanche  Pass   from  the   north   and 
return  by  Indian  Pass,  or  via  versa,  usually  find  the  way  too 
long  for  a   single   day,    but  breaking  the  trip  at   the  Upper 
Works  divides  it  evenly  enough.     Those  who  come  are   made 
welcome  and  entertained  at   the    Club    House   in   excellent 
shape.     Myron  Buttles  the  manager,  is  a  walking  encyclopedia 
of  fact  and  figures,  tireless   in  the   discharge   of  his   duty  as 
manager  and  unremitting  in  his  attention  as  host. 


Lake  Colden.  131 

Calamity  Pond  is  5  miles  toward  the  east  and  reached  over 
a  road  which  is  used  for  lumbering  in  winter  but  which  in  sum- 
mer is  passable  only  on  foot. 

Lake  Colden  is  two  miles  further,  over  a  mountain  trail. 
This  is  one  of  the  wild  lakes  of  the  woods,  and  next  to  Avalanche 
Lake  gives  the  wildest  water  view  in  the  wilderness.  On  the 
west  shore  is  a  log  house  belonging  to  the  Adirondack  Club 
where  a  forester  is  kept  to  guard  the  interests  of  the  Associ- 
ation and  see  that  laws  respecting  the  preservation  of  game 
and  fish  are  properly  carried  out.  North  of  this  log  camp  a 
few  rods  is  an  open  camp  where  parties  going  or  coming  may 
make  themselves  reasonably  comfortable  for  the  night. 

Avalanche  Lake  is  nearly  a  mile  north  of  Lake  Colden, 
the  trail  passing  also  along  its  west  shore.  Its  altitude  is  2,846 
feet  above  tide.  Its  waters  are  cold  and  its  walls  of  rock  are 
perpendicular  on  either  side.  It  is  half  a  mile  in  length,  and 
but  a  few  rods  wide.  Between  it  and  lake  Colden  are  the 
debris  from  two  immense  slides  that  decended  the  mountain 
long  before  the  place  was  known,  imprisoning  the  waters  of 
this  lake.  A  trap  dike  here  shows  a  section  of  Mount  Colden, 
split  downward  for  a  thousand  feet,  its  outflowing  rocks  nearly 
bridging  the  lake.  This  lake,  and,  past  it,  Colden,  is  best 
reached  now  by  trail  from  Adirondack  Lodge,  five  miles 
north.     See  page  86. 

Lake  Henderson  is  about  half  a  mile  north  of  Adirondack. 
It  is  two  miles  long  with  its  outlet  near  the  center,  on  the 
east.  From  its  head  a  trail  leads  to  the  Preston  Ponds,  lying 
west  of  Wallface  Mountain — the  head  of  Cold  River,  which 
flows  west  into  Raquette  River.  Toward  the  north  we  look 
up  a  gradual  slope  through  Indian  Pass ;  the  dark  green  sides 
of  Mclntyre  on  the  east,  mighty  Wallface  on  the  west. 
Up  this  slope  we  went  on  the  morning  following  our  night  at 
the  Iron  Works. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Indian  Pass. 

HAD  expected  to  find  a  ^evcl,  fertile,  grove-like 
way  throui^h  which  we  could  walk  with  little; 
exertion  in  the  shadow  of  great  rocks  on  either 
side,  but  how  different  the  reality.  For  three 
^^T^^^rl  "i''^s  the  rise  was  gradual,  then  we  began  to 
<™^  ^i7T<3fA  c|i,|^5^  crossing  the  rivulet  back  and  forth  as  we 
went  upward,  at  times  making  long  detours  to 
the  right  and  ascending  the  mountain  some 
distance,  then  a  level  stretch  along  its  sides  until 
the  wildly  dashing  torrent  was  reached  once 
more;  then  onward,  upward,  the  path  growing 
wilder  and  more  dilficult,  the  brooklet  bounding  from  rock 
to  rock,  then  lost  in  some  dark  cavern,  anon  trickling  down 
among  the  huge  boulders,  gurgling  in  muffled  music  beneath 
our  feet,  then  bursting  out  to  rest  a  moment  in  some  mossy 
basin,  pure  crystal  in  an  emerald  setting  on  which  floated 
fairy  ships  of  Autumn  leaves,  then  onward  in  its  long  jour- 
ney to  the  sea. 

We  had  caught  occasional  giimps<ri  ihro-jgh  the  trees  of — 
was  it  a  cloud  or  solid  rock  that  rested  off  toward  the  lefl,  we 
could  hardly  tell  until  we  traced  its  outline  against  the  sky,  for 
Indian  summer  had  hung  her  mantle  of  haze  over  the  great  cliff 
and  it  seemed  but  a  shade  or  two  deeper  than  the  blue  above.  At 
last,  through  an  opening  it  came  out ;  vast,  grand,  overwhelm- 
ing, immeasurable.  The  eye  saw  it  hanging  in  mid-air,  a  cloud, 
an  outline,  a  color ;  tender,  sw^et,  luminous.  The  soul  felt  and 
bowed  beneath  its  awful  weight.  The  giant  pines  that  fringed 
its  brow  seemed  bristling  hair,  the  great  rifls  and  seams  a 
faint  tracery  that  scarred  its  sides.  Motionless,  it  still  seemed 
to  be  sweeping  grandly  away  as^clouds  shot  upward  from  be- 
hind and  passed  over  to  the  east,  then  approaching,  and  re- 


INDIAN  PASS. 


146  The  ADIRONDACKb. 

treating,  as  cool  gray  shadows  and  yellow  sunlight  raced 
swiftly  across  or  lay  in  slant  bars  along  down  its  misty  face. 

But  the  highest  point  was  not  reached  yet ;  we  were  just 
entering  at  the  lower  gate,  and  for  nearly  a  mile  it  was  a  con- 
tinuous climb  over  great  chaotic  masses  of  jagged  rock, 
throwii  there  by  some  convulsion  of  Nature,  now  on  a  huge 
fragment  that  seems  ready  to  topple  over  into  the  gulf  below, 
now  under  a  projecting  shelf  that  would  shelter  a  large  com- 
pany, now  between  others  from  which  hang  dripping  mosses 
and  sprawling  roots,  stooping,  crawling,  clinging  to  projecting 
limbs,  climbing  slippery  ledges,  upward  all  the  time. 

The  trees  that  had  found  lodgment  on  the  top  of  the  rocks 
seemed  to  reach  out  thirstily  lor  something  more  than  they 
found  in  their  first  bed  ;  one  that  we  noticed  had  taken  root 
on  the  top  of  a  huge  boulder,  and  sent  down  a  mass  of  inter- 
woven r©ots  twenty  feet  to  the  damp  earth  beneath. 

At  last  we  near  the  summit  and  stand  on  Lookout  Point ; 
close  by  rises  that  grand  wall  a  thousand  feet  up,  and  extend- 
ing three  hundred  feet  below  us,  reaching  out  north  anJ 
south,  majestic,  solemn  and  oppressive  in  its  nearness  ;  a  lonjj 
line  of  great  fragments  have  fallen,  year  by  year,  from  the 
cliff  above  and  now  lie  at  its  foot;  around  on  every  side 
huge  caverns  yawn  and  mighty  rocks  rear  their  heads  where 
He  who  rules  the  earthquake  cast  them  centuries  ago.  Along 
back,  down  the  gorge  we  look,  to  where  five  miles  away  and 
1,300  feet  below  us  is  Lake  Henderson,  a  shining  drop  in  the 
bottom  ot  a  great  emerald  bowl. 

Slowly  the  sun  swung  around  toward  the  west,  the  shadow 
of  the  great  wall  crept  down  into  the  valley  across  the  gray 
rocks,  and  over  toward  the  mossy  ones  that  had  lain  there 
unnumbered  centuries;  gradually  the  sweet  tinkling,  gurgling 
music  of  the  infant  Hudson  died  away  and  solitude  reigned. 
Then  as  we  passed  onward  a  familiar  sound  came  once  more, 
faintly  at  first,  then  more  distinctly,  the  singing  of  little 
waters ;  first  trickling  over  ocks,  then  dancing  downward, 
increased  in  volume  by  tributary  streams  from  the  slopes  of 
Mclntyre  —  rocked  in  the  same  mountain  cradle,  twin  brothers 
mnd  equal  at  their  birth  —  the  mighty  Hudson  rolling  south- 
ward, and  the  impetuous  Ausable  dancing  away  toward  the 


Indian  Pass. 


14; 


north  Down  the  rocky  bed  of  the  stream  we  went  until  we 
had  left  the  pass  behind,  through  the  thick  pines  and  hemlock 
out  into  hard  timber  land,  our  only  guide  the  blazed  trees,  for 
the  leaves  covered  the  ground  like  a  thick  carpet,  often  hid- 
ing the  slight  trail.  Over  the  foot  hills  of  the  mountain  on 
the  west,  often  misled  by  seeming  paths  until  the  absence  of 
scars  on  the  trees  warned  us  to  retrace  our  steps  and  gather 
up  the  missing  thread.  On  and  on,  until  it  seamed  that  the 
eighteen  or  twenty  miles  we  had  expected  to  travel  before 
seeing  a  familiar  landmark  had  lengthened  out  into  twice  that 
number;  then  in  the  gathering  twilight  we  emerged  from  the 
woods  in  sight  of  North  Elba,  forded  the  Ausable  —  grown  to 
be  quite  a  river  since  we  had  left  it  away  back  toward  its 
head — and  up  to  Blin's,  with  a  sound  as  though  a  whole 
colony  of  bull-frogs  were  having  a  concert  in  each  boot 

Does  it  pay  to  go  through  Indian  Pass  ?  I  answer  a  thou- 
sand times  yes.  It  costs  a  little  extra  exertion,  but  the 
experiences  and  emotions  of  the  day  come  back  in  a  flood  ot 
oappy  recollections,  and  the  soul  is  lifted  a  little  higher  and 
made  better  by  a  visit  to  that  grand  old  mountain  ruin. 


Mount  Golden 


McIntirh. 
[South  from  Blinn's.  | 


Indian  Pass 


Over  across  the  river  at  the  west,  visible  from  Blin's,  is 
J  ohn  Brown's  grave,  which  we  touched  from  the  north,  then 
passed  westward  to  the  Saranacs. 

Ames*,  something  over  a  mile  north  and  east,  is  described 
in  the  preceding  pages.  Here  we  took  dinner,  and,  in  the 
afternoon,  went  to  Keene,  thence  south,  through  the  valley ; 
but  as  that  region  is  usually  visited  by  way  of  Westport  and 
Elizabethtown,  we  will  glance  at  that  route. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Pleasant  Valley. 

Leaving  Westport,  an  enjoyable  stage  ride  of 
eight  miles  in  a  westerly  course,  takes  us 
through  a  notch  and  out  to  where  we  can 
look  down  into  that  lovely,  mountain-guarded 
retreat  known  as  Pleasant  Valley.  It  is 
scarcely  less  beautiful  than  its  twin  sister, 
Kecne  Valley,  over  across  the  grand  ridges 
to  the  west,  save  that  the  mountains  do  not 
crowd  against  it  quite  so  closely.  Like  the 
other,  it  is  a  favorite  resort  for  the  artist,  the 
quiet  lover  of  nature,  and  for  ladies,  whose  protectors,  made 
of  sterner  stuff,  are  roughing  it  in  the  mountains  and  lakes 
farther  west. 

Elizabethtown  is  picturesque,  and  the  county  seat  of  Es- 
sex County.  It  contains  a  population  of  eight  or  nine  hund- 
red ;  has  five  churches — Congregational,  Methodist,  Baptist 
Episcopal,  and  Roman  Catholic — four  or  five  stores,  county 
offices,  court-house  and  jail,  and  two  excellent  hotels.  It  is 
peculiarly  an  American  town,  having  very  little  foreign  popu- 
lation j  with  no  mills  or  forges  to  fill  the  streams  with  sawdust, 
your  clothes  with  soot,  or  your  eyes  with  cinders. 

The  Mansion  House  stands  on  the  level  plateau  at  the 
south  edge  of  the  village,  50  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
•Boquet  River  which  flows  north  through  the  valley.  It  is  a 
large  building  showing  prominently  as  we  dip  over  into  the 
valley  and  with  recent  additions  and  connecting  cottages  will 
accomodate  150  guests.  A  pleasant  feature  is  its  music  hall. 
It  has  been  long  and  favorably  known  and  has  an  excellent 
and  well  established  patronage.  Rates,  $2.50  per  day,  $10 
to  $14  per  week.  G.  W.  Jenkins,  Proprietor.  Mr.  Jenkins 
is  also  Manager  of  the  Mansion  House  in  the  valley,  which 
is  open  all  the  year. 


Elizabethtown.  149 

The  Windsor,  enlarged,  Orlando  Kellogg,  proprietor,  is 
one  of  the  most  attractive  hotels  in  the  Adirondacks.  It 
consists  of  Tour  picturesque  buildings,  closely  connected, 
each  three  stories  high,  affording  accommodations  for 
about  250  guests.  The  buildings  are  fronted  east  and 
north  witli  double  piazzas,  and  surmounted  by  large  observ- 
atories with  stained-glass  windows.  The  convenient  office 
and  rece[)tion-room,  music-room,  cosy  parlors,  and  commo- 
dious sleei)ing-rooms,  show  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  wants 
of  the  public. 

Repeated  enlargements  and  improvements  have  made  it 
very  complete  in  its  appointments  and  with  desirable  accom- 
modations for  invalid  and  tourist.  There  are  bowling  alleys, 
tennis  courts,  and  croquet  grounds,  and  an  excellent  orches- 
tra here.  Guides  for  the  lakes  and  mountains,  and  horses 
and  carriages  for  the  beautiful  drives  around  can  be  ob- 
tained on  application.  Telegraph  office  in  the  hotel.  Rates 
2.50  to  $3.00  per  day.  Special  rates  to  parties  making  a  pro- 
longed stay. 

Stages  meet  all  trains  and  boats  at  Westport ;  fare,  $1.00. 
Through  July  and  August,  a  fast  train,  connecting  with  night 
boats  and  sleepers  at  Albany  and  Troy,  will  reach  Westport 
a  little  past  1 1  a.  m. 

Keene  Valley  stages  arrive  here  to  connect  with  train  and 
boat  south,  and  return  with  passengers  from  afternoon  boat 
north.     Fare  to  Keene  Valley,  $1.50. 

Lake  Placid  stages  leave  daily,  after  June  ist,  Sundays  ex- 
cepted, at  8  A.  M.,  and,  stopping  at  Cascade  Lakes  for  dinner, 
arrive  at  Lake  Placid  early  in  the  afternoon.  Returning, 
leave  Lake  Placid  at  10:00,  arriving  at  Elizabethtown  for 
supper,  and  connect,  via  Kellogg's  stages,  with  south-bound 
sleeper  at  Westport.  Fare,  Elizabethtown  to  Lake  Placid,  $3. 
This  route  leads  through  what  is  undoubtedly  the  wildest  and 
most  picturesque  section  of  the  Adirondacks  yet  opened  up 
to  the  public ;  and,  with  the  new  four  and  six-horse  stages  of  this 


Pleasant  Valley.  151 

and  the  Westport  line,  tends  to  popularize  the  route  among 
lovers  of  coaching,  since  so  few  desirable  trips  are  left  to  the 
public.  For  those  who  prefer  a  more  independent  mode  of 
traveling,  special  rigs  can  be  secured  by  addressing  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  stage  line,  Agnew  Brothers,  Elizabethtown. 

Hurricane  Mountain  is  the  highest  peak  near  by.  It  is 
a  sharp  cone,  on  which  the  sun  seems  to  hang  as  it  bids  the 
valley  good-night.  A  wagon  road  leads  to  its  base,  five  miles 
distant,  from  which,  by  a  sharp  climb  of  two  miles,  the  summit 
is  reached;  giving  one  of  the  finest  high  views  to  be  obtained 
in  the  Adirondacks  —  second,  perhaps,  only  to  that  from  the 
top  of  Whiteface. 

Cobble  Hill  rises  at  the  southwest  edge  of  the  plain  like 
a  hugh,  rough  pyramid.  Beyond  this,  toward  the  south,  the 
mountains  approach  each  other,  growing  rough  and  precipitous 
as  the  level  interval  narrows  down ;  at  places  breaking  off 
suddenly  in  perpendicular  walls  a  hundred  feet  in  height ;  at 
others,  rounding  over  in  great,  nobby,  boulder-like  masses,  to 
the  level,  that  flows  along  their  base  almost  as  evenly  as  though 
it  were  water  instead  of  the  bed  of  a  valley.  Split  Rock 
Falls  is  eight  miles  south  of  Elizabethtown. 

EuBA  Dam  is,  or  rather  ivas,  the  name  of  a  little  place  10 
miles  south  of  EHzabethtown,  but  as  its  use  had  a  tendency 
to  familiarize  the  youth  of  the  land  with  incipient  profanity,  it 
was  changed  to  Euba  Mills.  Beyond,  the  road  passes  Dead- 
water,  16  miles;  Roots,  23  miles;  and  Scroon  Lake,  32  miles 
from  Elizabethtown. 

North  of  Elizabethtown  the  road  runs  through  close  under 
the  frowning  ledge  of  Poke-o'Moonshine,  past  Auger  Lake, 
and  out  across  the  plain  to  Keeseville,  22  miles  distant. 

West,  it  winds  up  over  the  mountain  pass,  between  Old 
Hurricane  and  the  Giant,  to  Keen,  12  miles,  by  Cascade 
Lakes,  18  miles,  oii«t  across  the  plain  of  North  Elba,  with  its 
grand  panorama  of  mountains  at  the  south,  to  Lake  Placid, 
27  miles  (for  which  see  page  83). 


/V\AP    OF 

•KEENE-VALLEY- 

ORlGrNAL    BY 


groo'  ""•"    ^""^ 


m^$\^mT^^'^^ 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Keene  Valley. 

EENE  FLATS  undoubtedly  possesses  the 
loveliest  combination  of  quiet  valley  and 
wild  mountain  scenery  in  the  Adirondacks, 
if  not  indeed  on  the  continent.  Through  it, 
from  the  south,  come  the  sparkling  waters 
of  the  Ausable,  here  flowing  quietly  along 
beneath  overhanging  maples  and  gracefully 
swaying  elms,  there  rippling  over  glistening 
white  sand  ;  now  murmuring  through  pleas- 
ant meadow-land,  anon  dancing  away  among 
the  stones ;  then  dashing  down  rocky  race- 
»rays  to  where,  among  the  spray  and  foam  of  the  cataract,  it 
thunders  and  rumbles  and  roars  as  if  angry  with  its  prison 
walls  ;  then  onward  between  the  dark  overhanging  ledges 
outward  through  the  northern  portals  and  away  to  join  its 
sister  from  the  great  Indian  Pass  above. 

A  little  way  south  of  the  falls  the  road  from  Elizabethtown 
comes  in  on  the  east,  south  of  this  we  follow  up  the  stream 
tSat  winds  quietly  along  through  the  Flats  from  its  head  six 
miles  above.  Soon  some  of  the  beauties  that  have  lent  such 
a  charm  to  this  locality  begin  to  appear;  we  see  sweet,  restful 
shady,  groves  of  water  maples,  great  massy  drooping  elms, 
clumps  of  alders  fringing  the  river  brink,  great  canopies  of 
native  grape-vines  clasping  the  huge  rocks  in  loving  embrace 
or  festooned  on  the  sturdy  trees  through  which  open  up 
long  vistas  of  meadow-land,  a  back-ground  of  mountain 
green,  and  abore  all,  summits  of  glittering  granite. 

On  every  side  they  shut  us  in,  rising  right  up  out  of  the 
Flat  instead  of  the  gradual  curve  of  a  mountain  from  the 
plain,  showing  that  the  bottom  of  the  lovely  valley  is  but 
the  accumulated  deposit  of  long  ages,  where  the  floodi  swept 


158 


The  Adirondacks. 


down  from  the  mountains  and  left  their  sediment  in  the  notch 
below.  Picturesque  "  bits "  are  found  everywhere.  The 
waterfalls  are  varied  as  the  shifting  forms  of  the  kaleidoscope, 
many  deserving  particular  attention.  They  are  too  numerous 
to  mention,  too  wild  and  varied  to  be  described.     They  must 


KEEXE   VALLEY     SOUTH   FROM   RROOK   KNOLL  LODGE. 

be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  If  a  guide  be  wanted  for  these 
short  excursions,  none  more  competent  or  entertaining  can  be 
ound  than  the  veteran  explorer,  *'  Old  Mountain  Phelps," 
who  knows  wilderness  ways  by  instinct,  and  talks  with  the 
elements  as  wiih  familiar  friends,  but  whose  ripening  years 
have  caused  him,  regretfully,  to  }^ield  to  younger  heads  and 
limbs  the  long  tramps  through  valley  and  over  mountain 
heights  in  which  he  once  delighted.  See  him  at  any  rate,  for 
a  cordial  welcome  and  pleasant  hour  is  certain  to  be  the 
result. 

When  we  reached  Keene  Valley,  in  our  tramp  of  '73,  we 
found  accommodations  at  Crawford's  for  the  night.  In  the 
morning  we  hunted  up  "  Old  Mountain  Phelps,"  to  show  us 
the  way  further  in. 

We  found  him  at  his  home  near  the  falls  that  bear  his 
name ;  a  little  old  man,  about  five  feet  six  in  height,  muffled 
up  in  an  immense  crop  of  long  hair,  and  a  beard  that  seemed 
to  boil  up  out  of  his  collar  band  ;  grizzley  as  the  granite  ledges 
he  loved  to  climb,  shaggy  as  the  rough- barked  cedar,  but 
with  a  pleasant  twinkle  in  his  eye  and  an  elasticity  to  his  step 
then  equaled  by  few  younger  men,  while  he  delivered  his 
communications,  his  sage  conclusions  and  whimsical  oddities, 
in  a  cheery,  chirrupy,  squeaky  sort  of  tone — away  up  on  the 
mountains  as  it  were — an  octave  above  the  ordinary  voice, 
suggestive  of  the  warblings  of  an  ancient  chickadee. 


il 


"Old  Mountain  Piiklps." 


15; 


"old   mountain   PHELPS.' 


"  So  you  wanted  old  Mountain  Phelps  to  show  you  the  way, 
lid  you?"  said  he,  "  Well,  I  s'pose  I  kin  do  it.  I'll  be  along 
',s  soon  as  the  old  woman'U  bake  me  a  short-cake.  The  wise 
aan  provides  for  an  emergency,  and  hunger's  one  of  'em." 
1  Orson  Schofield  Phelps  is  what  his  parents  named  their 
»aby,  and  "Old  Mountain  Phelps"  is  what  every  body  calls 
lim  now  ;  but  his  first  name 
vas  given  years  ago,  some- 
ime  before  he  had  earned 
he  last.  He  was  born  in 
he  Green  Mountain  State  in 
816,  from  which  he  came  to 
be  western  part  of  Schroon 
/hen  14  years  of  age;  he 
ad  an  enthusiastic  love  for 
he  woods,  took  to  them  on 
very  possible  occasion, and 
'as  a  long  time  engaged  in 
■acing  out  wild  lot  lines 
lat  extended  far  in  the  interior,  ""  where  in  those  times,  deer 
nd  speckled  trout  were  as  plenty  as  mosquitoes  in  a  damp 
ay  in  July." 

In  1844  he  was  with  Mr.  Henderson  at  Adirondack,  soon 
fter  which  he  married  and  settled  in  Keene  Valley.  In  1849 
e  made  his  first  trip  to  the  top  of  Marcy,  passing  out  over 
[aystack  around  the  head  of  Panther  Gorge  and  to  the 
immit,  descending  near  where  the  main  trail  now  runs,  being 
le  first  man  to  get  to  the  top  from  the  east.  He  afterward 
at  what  is  now  known  as  the  Bartlett  Mountain  trail,  and 
Liided  two  ladies  over  it,  a  route  that  had  been  considered 
npracticable  until  then.  He  also  marked  trails  to  the  top 
f  Hopkins'  Peak,  the  Giant,  up  John's  Brook  to  Marcy,  and 
iveral  others.  He  has  made  a  valuable  map  of  the  wild 
Duntry  around,  a  section  of  which  may  be  seen  on  page   152, 

a  prized  and  regular  contributor  to  a  local    paper,   and  has 
ritten  a  voluminous  treatise  on  the  Adirondack  lakes  and 
lountains,    trees,  birds,  beasts,  etc.,  which  shows  the  close 
pserver  and  enthusiastic  student  of  nature. 


i6o 


The  Adirondacks. 


KEENE   VALLEY    FROM    PROSPECT   HILL. 

I  Noon  Mark ;  a  Dix ;  3  Dial ;  4  Nippletop  ;  5  Snow  ;  6  Wolfs  Jaws  ;  7  Rooster's 

Comb ;   8  Marcy. 

The  most  comprehensive  and  perfect  '*  picture "  is  that 
seen  from  Split  Rock  or  from  Prospect  Hill,  the  latter  being 
near  the  home  of  Old  Mountain  Phelps  and  easily  accessible. 

The  Estes  House  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  at  the 
west  foot  of  Prospect  Hill.  It  will  now  accommodate  50. 
$10  to  $15  per  week;  $2.5operday.  J.  H.  Estes,  proprietor. 
This  is  the  only  boarding  house  in  Keen  Valley  from  which 
Mount  Marcy  is  visible. 

Keene  Valley  (village),  is  one  mile  from  Prospect  Hill  and 
3  miles  from  the  head  of  the  valley. 

The  Adirondack  House,  built  in  1882,  stands  at  the  west 
outskirts  of  the  village  and  is  the  most  prominent  building  as 
seen  from  almost  any  direction.  Open  June  to  October.  Ca- 
pacity 100.  Board  $2.50  per  day;  $10.00  to  $15.00  pel 
week.     S.  Kelley,  proprietor. 

The  Tahawus  House  is  a  roomy,  three  story  building,  con- 
nected with  a  rambling  group  of  less  pretension,  but  looking 
very  cosy  and  comfortable  withal,  and  seeming  with  the  various 
barns  and  out-houses  almost  a  village  of  itself.  A  piazza  ex- 
tends across  in  front  of  the  new  part  and  along  the  south,  front 
and  north  sides  of  the  old,  making  a  covered  promenade  of 
over  300  feet.  The  larger  building  contains  office,  parlor  and 
dining-room  and  desirable  sleeping  rooms.  The  table  is  also 
all  that  can  be  reasonably  desired.  A  popular  feature 
at  the  Tahawus  House  is  its  theatre,  91x36  feet, 
with  stage  and  all  accessories  for  amateur  theatricals.  I1 
has  capacity  for  85  guests.  Open  summer  and  winter 
A     new     ten-pin       alley       has     also     been      built,     which 


Keene  Valley.  i6i 

with  base  ball  grounds  and  tennis  court,  atVord  ample  facilities, 
for  healthful  physical  culture.  Teams  from  the  Tahawus 
House  will  meet  guests  at  Westi)ort,  when  notice  is  sent  in 
advance,  and  carry  them  direct  without  change  to  their  des- 
tination. Price  for  board,  $2.00  per  day;  $8.00  to  $12.00 
per  week. 

The  proprietor  of  the  Tahawus  House,  Geo.  W.  Kgglefield, 
is  a  scholarly  man  with  radical  ideas  on  some  subjects,  and 
well  informed  on  general  questions  of  the  day  — wiiich,  how- 
ever, is  not  allowed  to  interfere  with  the  comfort  of  the  guests, 
who  may  feel  assuredof  hearty  and  obliging  attention. 

Maple  Grove  Mountain  House  is  the  title  given  orig- 
inally to  a  picturesque  farm-house  on  the  road  about  a  half- 
mile  up  the  valley  from  the  little  village,  and  later  transferretl 
to  a  more  commodious  building  erected  on  higher  ground 
close  by.  The  newer  building  stands  at  the  edge  of  one 
of  the  lower  plateaus  and  commands  a  charming  view  of 
the  valley  in  three  directions.  Close  by  in  front  runs  the  Au 
Sable;  at  the  rear  is  the  maple  grove  which  gave  occasion  for 
the  name;  back  of  this  is  the  steep  mountain  side  with  its 
lateral  ravines  and  the  weird  Washbond  flume.  Accommoda- 
tions can  here  be  found  for  about  40  guests. 

Conveyances  of  various  kinds,  suitable  for  large  or  small 
companies — carriages  for  the  valley  and  buckboards  for  moun- 
tain roads — can  be  had  at  very  reasonable  prices.  Board, 
$1.50  per  day;  $8  to  $10  per  week.  House  open  for  guests 
from  June  ist  to  October  ist.     Henry  Washbond,  proprietor. 

Flume  Cottage  stands  at  the  entrance  to  Waslibond's 
Flume,  commanding  an  extended  view  of  the  valley  north  and 
east  Its  owner,  Martin  Bahler,  A.M.,  a  graduate  of  Rutgers 
College,  is  principal  of  a  flourishing  young  ladies'  semmary, 
at  Summit,  N.  J.,  and,  as  periodical  landlord  here,  has  made 
it  a  delightful  place  of  rest  for  such  as  enjoy  a  vacation  in  the 
mountains.  Entrance  is  hedged  about  with  difficulties  that 
make  it  charmingly  unconventional  as  a  house  of  cntertam- 
ment,  and  as  a  consequence  rather  the  thin^j  to  be  able  to 


j52  The  Adirondacks. 

address  your  letters  from  Flume  Cottage.  Transients  are  not 
desired.  A  total  stranger  will  need  some  reference.  If  a 
Hebrew,  do  not  apply.  Capacity,  40.  Board  per  week,  $10. 
Guests  will  be  met  at  Westport  if  desired. 

From  being  a  private  cottage,  first  sought  by  the  owner  for 
vacation  rest,  it  has  grown  to  present  proportions.  A  former 
guest  speaks  of  it  as  "  an  ideal  summer  home,  where  food  is  of 
prime  quality,  and  the  rooms  are  well  furnished  and  kept  in 
first-class  order."  Another  guest  mentions  Flume  Cottage  as 
a  "  romantic  home,  where  comforts  unexpected  in  a  mountain 
region  are  found,  and  the  charms  of  music  and  the  cheerful 
intercourse  of  a  refined  home-circle  enliven  the  dullness  of  a 
stormy  day."  An  enthusiastic  admirer  of  the  mountains,  the 
Professor  is  noted  for  his  tramps,  and  is  in  his  element  when 
climbing  breezy  heights  or  acting  as  guide  in  exploring  expe- 
ditions with  guests  possessed  of  like  affinities. 

St.  Hubert's  Inn  stands  on  the  site  formerly  occupied  by 
the  old  Beede  House,  which  was  burned  March  3,  1890.  The 
new  hotel  was  carefully  planned  for  the  comfort  of  visitors, 
striking  in  appearance  and  complete  in  its  accommodations. 
The  main  building  forms  two  faces  of  an  octagon,  a  third  one 
of  which  it  is  proposed  in  time  to  build  on,  but  now  enclosed 
for  a  tennis  court.  Connected  with  this  is  a  pavilion  affording 
a  delightful  assembly  room  removed  somewhat  from  the  hotel 
proper,  yet  connected  by  a  continuation  of  the  piaza  floor,  of- 
fering an  odd  but  very  attractive  feature  to  a  mountain  resort. 
The  Inn  is  three  stories  in  height  with  pleasant,  large-windowed 
rooms,  many  of  them  en  suite,  ample  piazzas  and  balconies  at 
various  points  along  the  front  with  doors  opening  from  them 
into  the  upper  rooms.  There  is  a  spacious  parlor  and  dining 
room,  a  large  office,  a  telegraph  office,  post-office  (Beede's), 
reception,  reading  and  smoking  rooms  to  occupy  the  main 
floor.  It  has  electric  bells,  steam  heat,  and  is  lighted  with 
gas.  There  are  open  fire-places  in  the  offices  and  main  hall, 
parlors  and  dining-rooms.  The  house  is  furnished  in  modern 
style,  luxuriously  and  artistically.     The  decorations  are  simple, 


Keene  Vallkv.  163 

but  in  good  taste.  Heavy  tapestry  and  hanging  curtains  in 
place  af  doors  between  the  public  rooms,  give  an  air  of  ro/.y 
comfort  quite  attractive.  Mountain  water  brought  into  tlic 
house  is  of  the  purest  and  the  drainage  believed  to  be  as  j)er- 
fect  as  possible.  The  price  for  board  is  from  $1  5.00  to  $35.00 
per  week.     E.  H.  Hayes,  manager.     Oi)en  for  guests  July  ist. 

St.  Hubert's  Cottage,  formerly  known  as  Widow  Hcedc's, 
is  under  the  same  management.  It  stands  about  a  half  mile 
northeast  of  the  Inn,  on  the  face  of  the  bluff  that  looks  north- 
ward from  the  centre  of  Keene  Valley.  This  house  will  ac- 
commodate from  30  to  40  guests  and  will  be  open  June  ist. 
Rates  $8.00  to  $15.00  per  week.  St.  Hubert's  Inn,  and  cot- 
tage with  the  property  pertaining  to  the  two  houses  belong  to 
the  Keene  Heights  Hotel  Co.,  of  which  Edmund  Dwight,  Jr., 
of  51  Cedar  St.,  N.  Y.,  is  president. 

A  stage  runs   to  Westport  morning   and  noon,  carrying  the 

mail,  etc.     Fare,  $2.50. 

The  '*  Inn"  is  on  land  about  277  feet  higher  than  the  valley 
I  240  feet  above  tide.     The  outlook  is  superb.     Toward  the 
eLst  we  see  Hopkins  Peak  and  the   scarred  sides  and  granite 
summit  of  the  Giant  of  the  Valley.     South  of  us-a  Imle  t() 
the  east  of  where  we  stand-is  Noon  Mark;  between  it  and 
the    Giant    is    Chapel    Pond   gorge.     Southwest,  is  the  road 
to    the    Ausable   lakes,    lying   between    the    sharp    peak    of 
Colvin    and   the    serrated   summit    of   Resagonia.      Back   to 
the    west    is    one    of  the    lower  ridges,    over  beyond    w  uch 
are  the  clustering  peaks  of  the  great  central  group.     Along 
this    but    a    few  rods    away,   the  Ausable  foams  and  dashes 
through  its  rugged  path;  now  tumbling  from  rock  to  roc k^^ 
now  foaming  over  in  lovely  cascades  ;  anon  creeping  qu.etU 
now  lud,       5  cr::,thered  in  the  hollow  of  some 

under  overhanging  trees,  or  gatherea  in  , 

huge  granite  bowl-but  always  picturesque  and  beautiful 

Roaring  BROOK  Falls  are  east   of  Beede's-the  head  o 
.he  cliff  over  which  they  fall  being  in  sight  on  t  e  side  ^>     1 
Giant,  a  little  more  than  a  half  mile  distant.     ^J^^^ 
II        n.ake    a  descent  of  nearly  300  feet  in  '^/---^Y;;;™^^^ 
*        hardly  touching  at  each  step  to  gather  for  the  next  succeeding 


164  The  Adirondacks. 

plunge ;  then  flashing  swiftly  down  the  almost  perpendicular 
rock  for  the  last  fifty  feet,  through  a  trough  worn  out  by  its 
action,  to  rest  at  the  bottom ;  and  out,  in  pretty  little  falls 
and  dashes,  across  the  Chapel  pond  trail,  and  downward 
toward  the  north  to  join  the  Ausable. 

Chapel  Pond  is  one  mile  farther,  in  a  gorge,  southwest  of 
the  Giant — a  nearly  perpendicular  wall  of  rock  descending 
abruptly  to  near  the  water's  edge.  It  is  one-half  mile  long  and 
perhaps  one-fourth  wide ;  its  dark  surroundings  give  an  im- 
pressive air  to  this  lonely  sheet,  and  make  it  seem  more 
fitting  as  a  place  for  solemn  meditation  than  for  angler's 
sport.     It  is  1,602  feet  above  tide. 

The  Giant's  Washbowl  is  at  the  northeast,  on  the  side  of 
the  mountain.  It  is  said  you  can  stand  on  its  edge  and  throw 
a  stone  over  into  Chapel  Pond,  more  than  500  feet  below. 

The  Chapel  Pond  road  leads  from  St.  Hubert's  Inn  east 
along  the  side  of  the  gorge,  past  Chapel  Pond  to  Euba  Mills. 
at  the  head  of  Pleasant  Valley;  thence  to  Mineville,  15  miles, 
or  to  Root's,  17  miles  from  the  starting  point.  The  road  is 
good,  considering  the  country  traversed,  and  between  the  two 
valleys  is  exceedingly  wild  and  picturesque.  A  day  can  be 
profitably  spent  in  making  this  excursion. 

Russell  Falls  are  but  a  few  rods  distant,  and  may  be 
reached  by  paths  through  the  woods  west  of  the  Inn. 

To  the  top  of  Noon  Mark  it  is  two  miles;  Mount  Colvin, 
five  miles,  the  Giant  about  four  miles ;  Hopkins  Peak,  four 
miles.  A  trail  was  completed  in  1885  from  the  Ponds  road 
to  Mount  Colvin.  It  crosses  McCrea's  Brook  over  a  sub- 
stantial rustic  bridge,  and  passes  near  the  Wizard's  Washbowl 
and  the  high  falls  of  Gill  Brook.  The  steep  ledge  at  the  sum- 
mit is  now  easily  scaled  by  means  of  stout  ladders.  Starting 
from  the  Inn,  an  average  pedestrian  can  reach  the  signal  in 
about  three  hours.  A  trail  from  the  Lower  Lake  to  Indian 
Head  was  opened  in  i888,  and  a  branch  trail  connecting  with 
the  trail  to  Mt.  Colvin.  A  new  trail  to  the  top  of  the  Gothics 
was  opened  in  1887. 


Keene  Valley.  165 

Resagonia  Mountain  is  in  the  southwest,  its  serrated  out- 
line suggesting  its  local  name  of  "  Saw-teeth  Mountain."  East 
of  this  is  the  round,  knob-like  crest,  known  as  "  Indian  Head  ;" 
which,  sphinx-Uke,  looks  out  over  the  waters  of  the  Lower  Au 
Sable  Lake. 

Mount  Colvin  rises  beyond,  sweeping  back  towards  the 
south  and  east,  to  its  sharp,  clean-cut  summit  so  named  in 
honor  of  Verplanck  Colvin,  superintendent  of  tlie  Adirondack 
Survey. 

The  Adirondack  Mountain  Reserve  is  incorporated 
under  the  laws  of  New  York,  with  the  following  officers :  \Vm. 
G.  Neilson,  Philadelphia,  president;  S.  Sidney  Smith,  New 
York,  secretary;  Wm.  C.  Alderson,  treasurer.  The  board  of 
trustees  are  Wm.  Alexander,  S.  Sidney  Smith,  C.  C.  Cuyler, 
and  Frederick  J.  Stimspn,  of  New  York,  and  Wm.  G.  Neilson, 
Richard  C.  Dale,  and  Edward  I.  H.   Howell,  of  Philadelphia. 

This  corporation  has  purchased  the  tract  of  country  lying 
south  of  Keene  Valley,  including  within  its  limits  the  Au 
Sable  lakes,  and  the  great  mountains  surrounding  them,  ex- 
tending southwesterly  to  take  in  about  one-half  of  Mount 
Marcy.  The  declared  objects  of  the  association  are  the  pre- 
servation of  the  forests,  lakes,  and  streams  in  their  natural 
beauty ;  to  restock  the  water  with  fish ;  to  protect  the  game ; 
and  to  render  more  accessible,  by  roads  and  trails,  the  points 
of  interest  within  its  domain.  To  this  end,  has  been  built, 
practically,  a  new  road,  along  the  heretofore  almost  impassable 
line,  from  Beede's  to  the  Lower  Au  Sable  Lake,  and  opened 
to  the  public.  Toll  will  be  charged  as  follows :  For  season 
tickets,  $1.50;  two-horse  carriage  and  passengers,  trip  $1,00; 
single  rig,  50  cents;  horse  and  rider,  25  ;  pedestrian,  10;  au- 
thorized guides  and  children  under  10,  free.  The  receipts  for 
toll  are  to  be  expended  in  repairing  and  improving  the  road, 
and  in  making  new  trails  up  the  mountains  and  to  miportant 
lookouts.  A  stage  will  run  regularly,  during  the  season,  from 
the  village  to  the  Lower  Au  Sable.     Fare  from  Adirondack 


I 


The  Adirondacks. 


166-B 


House,  75  cents,  round  Irij),  $1.25;  from  Si.  ilubert's  Inn 
50  cents,  round  tri})  75  cents. 

Some  of  the  rules  established  by  the  A.  M.  R.  may  seem 
over-rigid ;  but  they  have  been  adopted  after  a  careful  consid- 
eration of  the  case,  and  witli  a  view  to  the  best  interests  of  all 
concerned.  The  fact  that  the  owners  themselves  are  bound 
as  rigidly  as  the  veriest  stranger,  is  reply  enough  to  those  who 
would  suggest  anything  but  the  best  of  motives,  and  the  move- 
ment is  to  be  commended  by  all  right-minded  persons  who 
may  not  consider  fishing  and  the  taking  of  animal  life  as  the 
only  pleasurable  sensations  to  be  experienced  here  among 
nature's  grandest  scenes, 

A  rustic  gate-house  is  at  the  entrance  to  the  Reserve,  just 
south  of  the  Inn.  At  the  Lower  Lake,  a  boat-house  and 
cottage  have  been  built,  where  refreshments,  boats,  and  gen- 
eral information,  with  camp  supplies  and  privileges,  can  be 
obtained. 

Cutting  green  timber,  peeling  bark,  or  defacing  the  prop- 
erty of  the  company  in  any  manner,  is  forbidden.  On  Sun- 
days, boats  will  not  be  rented,  nor  will  goods  be  sold  by  the 
agents  of  the  company.  No  malt  or  spirituous  liquors  will  be 
1  345 


UPPER    AU    SABLE    LAKE. 

1.  Haystack;  3.  Saddleback;  4.  Gothic;  5.  Resagonia. 

sold  on  the  company's  reserve  at  any  time.  Hunting  will  not 
be  permitted  this  season.  Fishing  allowed  only  by  special 
permit.  All  the  camps  on  the  lakes  are  owned  and  controlled 
by  the  company,  and  no  one  will  be  allowed  to  occupy  them 
unless  accompanied  by  an  authorized  guide.     Permission  can 


l66-c 


Keene  Valley. 


be  obtained  at  the  boat-house  cottage,  at  the  Lower  Lake. 
Twenty-five  cents  per  night  will  be  charged  each  visitor  for  the 
use  of  a  camp. 

Following  is  a  list  of  the  authorized  guides  of  Keene  Valley 
— an  organization  bound  by  rules  of  its  own  making,  where 
membership  may  be  accepted  by  the  public  as  a  guarantee  of 
capabihty.     Address,  at  Keene  Valley.     Horace  E.  Braman, 


3/4  ^i  '/4. 

ONE  MILt  5CAU        CH/^i. ettet 


:  JU)«tK 


C  AMP5 


[JP'PIR   /\u5ABL[]AKt. 


Arthur  C.  Trumbull,  Melville  J.  Trumbull,  George  W.  Han- 
mer,  Oren  E.  Beede,  Charles  E.  Trumbull,  Charles  Beede, 
Edmund  F.  Phelps,  James  Owens,  George  F.  Beede,  Harry  S. 
Stetson,  Melvin  A.  Hathaway,  Le  Grand  Hale,  Frank  C.  Par- 
ker (Forester),  C.  Wesley  Lamb,  Fred.  E.  Lamb. 

******* 

We  saw  what  was  to  be  seen  in  the  valley ;  then,  guided 
by  old  Mountain  Phelps,  with  basket  on  back  and  lit- 
tle hatchet  in  hand,  went  to  South  Pass,  where  St.  Hu- 
bert's Inn  now  stands,  and    up  along  brawling   Gill   Brook, 


Lower  Ausable  Tond. 


167 


MT.  COLVIN.      AUSABLB   FASS.      RESAGONIA. 


over  a  path  that  is  sometimes  dignified  by  the  name  of  wagon- 
road,  but  over  which  but  few  would  attempt  to  ride. 

"All  things  is  possible  and  nothing  ompossible,"  said  Phelps 
diving  into  the  bushes  on  one  side  of  the  road,  and  soon  re- 
appearing with  a 
piece  of  band  iron 
which  he  stowed 
away  in  his  bag, 
'*  like  as  not  I  will 
need  this  to  mend 
an  oar  or  some> 
thing ;  old  Phelps 
is  such  an  easy  old 
critter  to  get  along 
with,  that  they  take 
his  boat,  bang  it 
'round  as  much  as 
they  want  to,  may- 
be break  an  oar,  and  he  never'll  make  a  fuss  about  it; 
shouldn't  wonder  a  bit  if  they  had  it  off  somewhere  now." 

After  what  seemed  a  long  four  mile  tramp  through  the 
woods,  we  came  out  in  a  little  opening  near  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
and  were  just  rising  to  look  out  when  a  fierce  gust  of  wind 
from  the  other  side  set  the  old  man's  hat  whirling  back  toward 
us ;  we  succeeded  in  spearing  it,  then  as  we  turned  and  glanced 
out  ahead,  were  surprised,  almost  dazzled  by  the  wonder- 
ful beauty  of  the  scene  that  flashed  out  so  suddenly  and  un- 
expectedly on  our  astonished  sight 

Ausable  Pond  in  all  its  Swiss-like  beauty  was  before  us 
We  stood  at  the  end  of  our  road  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  whosr 
front  had  apparently  been  undermined,  and  ran  sharply  down 
to  the  water's  edge,  gleaming,  drifti  ig,  unstable  sand.  On  the 
left,  close  by,  was  old  Indian  Head,  the  side  toward  us  all  in 
shadow  :  rough  and  jagged,  standing  like  some  grim  sentinel 
to  guard  the  narrow  pass  at  his  feet  —  beyond  was  Mount 
Colvin,  the  sides  rising  in  places  straight  up  from  the  water, 
then  backward  to  the  sharp  ridge  over  2,100  feet  above. 
seemingly  crowned  with  a  coronet  of  diamonds  that  flashed 
and  glittered  as  the  water  trickled  down  over  the  rocks,  and 


LOWER  AUSABLE  LAKE. 


Au  Sable  Lakes.  169 

mountains  were  passing  slowly,  like  some  great  glacier,  to- 
ward the  plain. 

Now,  among  birches  that  have  grown  at  the  outlet  since 
our  first  visit,  stands  the  boat-house  cottage  and  refreshment- 
room,  and  a  road,  circling  around  the  bluff  where  I  speared 
the  old  man's  hat,  leads  down  to  the  water's  edge  ;  but  grand 
old  Indian  Head  still  looks  out  toward  the  dark  green  sides  of 
Resagonia,  and  rivulets  glisten  on  the  side  of  Mount  Colvin 
the  same  as  then. 

From  the  head  of  the  Lower  Au  Sable,  a  walk  of  something 
over  a  mile  along  the  stream  that  connects  the  two  brought  us 
to  the  shore  of  the  Upper  Au  Sable,  where  Phelps  entered  the 
bushes  in  search  of  the  boat  which  we  had  left  there.  "Just 
as  I  expected,"  said  he,  with  a  whimsical  triumph  in  finding 
matters  as  he  had  anticipated.  "  'Taint  there.  Old  Phelps's 
boats  belong  to  everybody  but  himself.  Wall,  we  haven't  got 
much  farther  to  go  to  my  shanty,  that's  one  satisfaction ;  and 
maybe  they'll  let  us  stay  there  all  night,  considering  that  it 
belongs  to  me."  So  we  skirted  the  west  shore  a  little  way, 
and  came  out  at  the  shanty,  where  we  found  the  hunting 
party  jubilant  over  the  fourth  deer  they  had  taken  in  three 
days,  and  preparing  supper,  to  which  we  did  full  justice. 

Upper  Au  Sable  Lake  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and 
a  half  mile  wide.  Without  being  the  very  wildest,  it  is,  per- 
haps, the  most  picturesque  of  all  Adirondack  lakes.  It  re- 
flects, in  its  waters,  a  number  of  the  most  striking  mountain- 
peaks,  which,  seen  from  this  place,  are  varied  and  extremely 
beautiful.  Some  are  thickly  wooded  slopes;  others  naked 
rock,  seamed  and  scarred.  On  the  east  is  the  Boreas  Moun- 
tain, a  long,  heavily  wooded  ridge,  terminating  at  the  north  in 
Mount  Colvin,  and  extending  south  about  10  miles.  At  the 
west  is  Bartlett  Mountain,  a  high  ridge,  near  the  lake.  Over 
its  south  slope  is  seen  the  sharp  cone  of  Haystack,  which 
hides  Marcy,  the  highest  of  the  Adirondacks.  Toward  the 
north,  comes  Basin,  Saddleback,  the  Gothic,  and  Resagonia 
—  a  grand  circle  of  giants,  on  whose  sides  we  can  mark  the 


I/O  The  Adirondacks. 

course  of  mountain  torrents  and  the  white,  gUstening  paiti  of 
the  avalanche.  The  shores  of  the  lake  are  thickly  wooded  to 
the  water's  edge. 

This  is  favorite  camping-ground,  not  only  for  hunters  in  the 
hunting  season,  but  throughout  the  warm  weather,  among 
those  who  come  here  to  enjoy  its  beauty  and  the  unfettered 
life  of  the  woods.  The  camps  are  mostly  open  in  front  to 
face  the  campfire,  and  are  built  and  owned  by  the  authorized 
guides  of  Keen  Valley,  by  authority  from  the  owners  of  the 
Reserve. 

The  ascent  of  Marcy  from  Keene  Valley  is  oftenest  made 
from  this  direction,  going  by  boat  up  the  Au  Sable  inlet  to 
Marcy  Brook ;  then  up  along  the  west  side  of  Bartlett  Moun- 
tain. We  can  hardly  do  better  than  give  the  trip  in  the 
words  of  tjie  "Old  Man  of  the  Mountains,"  who  stands  ready 
to  relieve  ;us.     So  we  will  stand  aside,  and  give  him  the  floor. 

Ladies  and  gentlemen  —  Mr.  Phelps. 

"Well,  I  guess  I  kin  show  you  the  way,  fur  I've  been  up 
there  near  a  hundred  times,  I  s'pose.  Let's  see,  we're  in 
Panther  Gorge  now,  I  believe,  and,  before  we  go  up  Marcy,  I 
want  to  show  you  a  sight  up  here,  from  the  side  of  Haystack, 
that  is  worth  seeing,  where  we  can  look  right  down  into  the 
gulf  below.  See  that  precipice  on  the  Marcy  side  ?  It  is  one 
continuous  wall  of  rock,  a  mile  in  length,  circling  around  to  the 
head  of  the  gorge,  with  Castle  Column  at  its  head.  That  is  one 
of  the  wildest  places  in  the  Adirondacks,  where,  after  a  heavy 
rain  or  in  the  spring,  streams  pour  down  it  from  all  sides. 
You  see  that  water-course  over  there  in  the  centre  ?  I  have 
seen  an  almost  unbroken  sheet  of  water,  six  feet  wide,  pouring 
over  that  to  the  bottom  of  the  gorge,  almost  a  thousand  feet 
below.  Now  we  will  pass  on  up  the  trail  once  more,  just 
stopping  to  notice  those  shafts  of  rock  across  on  the  Haystack 
side.  There  are  three  of  them,  entirely  detached  from  the 
wall  near  by,  about  ten  feet  square,  and  one  of  them  near 
fifty  feet  high,  with  a  loose  cap-stone  on  top  of  it.     The  soft 


I'HE   ADIRONDACKS.  17 1 

rock  mubt  have  crumbled  away  between  them  and  the  mair 
ledge  while  they  were  left  standing.  Now,  out  at  the  upper 
end  and  we  begin  to  climb  Marcy,  striking  the  John's 
Brook  trail  that  goes  down  to  Keene  Flats  near  its  centre. 
Up  here,  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  we  find  a  little  marsh, 
which  is  the  head  of  the  longest  branch  of  the  great  Hudson 
River,  and  the  largest  branch  of  the  Ausable ;  but  our  trees 
are  getting  stunted  and  we  will  soon  be  able  to  see  over  the 
tops  of  them;  it's  about  like  going  through  a  thrashing 
machine  trying  to  get  along  before  they  are  chopped  out ;  but 
here  we  are  at  last  at  the  top,  and  you  see  this  is  the  place  to 
see  things*,  down  there  at  Marcy  Brook,  where  we  turned  to 
go  through  Panther  Gorge,  comes  the  other  trail  up  this  way, 
running  spirally  up  the  south  side  from  east  to  west  until  it 
strikes  the  smooth  rock  that  has  been  swept  clean  by  the 
avalance ;  then  up  that,  across  back  and  forth  to  its  head.  It 
is  about  as  steep  as  the  roof  of  a  house,  and  when  it  is  wet  and 
slippery  it's  bad  getting  along,  but  when  its  dry  it  sticks  to  your 
boots  like  sand  paper.  In  making  the  round  trip  the  trail 
goes  down  the  north  side  a  ways  to  the  head  of  the  Opales- 
cent, then  west  through  the  valley  and  out  by  Lake  Colden 
and  Calamity  Pond  to  the  Adirondack  Iron  Works. 

The  summit  of  Tahawus  is  comparatively  level  for  6  rods 
north  and  south,  and  15  rods  east  and  west,  a  few  loose  boul- 
ders lie  about  promiscuously.  At  the  west  end  ol  this  flat  is  a 
mass  rising  up  some  eight  or  ten  feet  that  contains  the  high- 
est solid  rock  in  the  State  of  New  York.  Tahawus  has  some- 
thing of  a  ridge-like  appearance,  running  north-east  and 
south-west,  although  its  whole  formation  is  a  comparatively 
round  mound  of  rock.  The  upper  thousand  feet  is  bare,  and 
clear  the  farthest  down  on  the  south-west  side  ;  the  west  side 
of  this  mountain  has  more  the  appearance  of  a  pasture  hill- 
Bide  than  a  mountain  above  vegetation,  its  partial  covering  ol 
Alpine  grasses  and  other  plants  and  shrubs  give  it  a  domestic 
and  agricultural  appearance.  The  whole  south  side  is  covered 
with  bristly  balsam  up  within  a  few  rods  of  the  top,  and  is  the 
steepest  and  longest  side,  sloping  away  i}4  miles  at  the  rate  ol 
2,000  feet  to  the  mile,  to  the  foot  of  Panther  Gorge.  Large 
oortions  ot  the  south  side  have  been  swept  off  by  avalanchesi 


l^Jl 


The  Adirondacks. 


The  east  is  far  the  roughest  part  of  the  mountain.  It  drops 
easily  off  the  first  i,ooo  feet,  and  then  takes  one  final  leap  of 
I, GOO  feet  into  Panther  Gorge.  On  the  north  side,  it  drops 
down  to  the  head  of  the  Opalescent  Valley,  more  or  less 
broken  with  precipices  and  ravines." 

North  from  Marcy,  over  beyond  a  mass  of  mountain  ridges, 
is  the  cleared  fields  of  North  Elba.  Turning  toward  the 
northeast,  we  look  down  John's  Brook  Valley  into  Keen  Val- 
ley. Beyond  is  seen  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green  Moun- 
tains of  Vermont.  East  is  Haystack  and  the  Gothics.  To- 
wards the  southeast  is  the  deep  valley  of  Marcy  Brook.  Be- 
yond is  Boreas  Mountain,  and  the  mountains  that  cluster 
about  Schroon  Lake  and  Lake  George.  Away  off  in  the 
southwest  is  distant  Blue  Mountain  and  the  Raquette  Lake 
region.  At  our  feet  lies  little  Tear  of  the  Clouds,  —  the  high- 
est body  of  water  in  the  Adirondacks,  and  the  fountain  head 
of  the  great  Hudson  River, — ^4,293  feet  above  tide.  North 
of  west  is  Mount  Golden,  Mclntyre,  and  others  of  less  note. 

"  I  once  saw  the  clearing  up  of  a  thunderstorm  on  Marcy,'' 
continues  the  old  man.  "There  was  a  tornado  sweeping 
over  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  the  fog-clouds,  broken  into 
patches,  were  running  at  lightning  speed.  When  one  of  those 
clouds  would  strike  the  mountain  all  would  be  shut  in  with 
fog  for  perhaps  two  or  three  seconds,  when  it  would  open, 
giving  a  view  of  a  dazzhng,  brilHant  orange-tint  over  the 
whole  western  sky.  This  could  be  enjoyed  from  two  to  four 
seconds,  when  the  enveloping  fog  would  come  again  —  to  save 
one  from  going  crazy,  I  suppose. 

"A  thunderstorm  in  the  night  is  an  awful  sight  from  the 
summit  of  Tahawus.  I  once  saw  one  at  near  midnight,  ap- 
proaching from  the  west,  when  it  was  all  below  me,  and  I 
could  look  on  the  top  of  the  cloud  and  see  the  streaks  of  light- 
ning darting  in  every  direction.  It  appeared  like  a  mountain 
of   serpents  writhing   in   every  conceivable    manner.     When 


Camp  Phelps.  173 

it  finally  reached  me,  it  appeared  very  natural,  with  the 
exception  the  thunder  seemed  very  near  by.  There  are  a 
great  variety  of  fog  scenes  ;  I  saw  one  of  three-fourths  of  the 
orcle  about  me,  a  level  ocean  of  fog  and  the  other  quarter 
clear ;  it  made  me  think  of  a  big  pie  with  one  quarter  taken 
out;  another  one  was  of  fog  driven  over  Skylight  in  a  bright 
moonlight  night,  it  pitched  over  the  east  side  like  a  mammoth 
water-fall,  which  it  was,  not  of  a  river  but  a  cloud  ;  anothei 
majestic  sight  was  the  gathering  and  passing  up  of  what  we 
call  a  quick  south  storm  ;  when  I  first  saw  it,  it  was  some  forty 
miles  distant,  coming  on  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  in  two  minutes ; 
a  massive  cloud  with  the  driping  curtain  of  rain  reaching 
down  to  the  earth  ;  as  it  passed  up  nearer  it  threw  out  some 
of  the  most  wonderful  shades  and  colors ;  in  the  centre  it  was 
ol  a  clear  gray ;  some  six  to  eight  miles  to  the  east  and  west, 
of  a  bright  purple,  growing  lighter  to  the  extremes,  and  to 
the  east  and  west  softening  down  to  a  sunshine  hazy  light ; 
it  passed  over  to  the  St.  Lawrence  lasting  near  two  hours." 


Camp  Phelps,  on  the  upper  Ausable,  is  one  of  the  most 
complete  in  its  appointment  and  management  of  any  shanty 
in  the  Adirondacks.  The  structure  is  of  an  elegant  design, 
and  built  of  magnificent  logs  cut  and  curved  artistically  with 
knots  of  various  and  unique  patterns  in  has  relief.  The  main 
floor  is  about  2%  by  5  feet,  swings  outward,  and  is  locked  with  a 


1  HE  AdIRONDACKS. 

String;  It  contains  an  immense   reception   room,   drawing 
room,  private  parior  and  sleeping  rooms  en  ^uite,  with  ward- 
robes  sticking  out  all  around  the  sides.    The  grand  dining 
hall  is  situate  out  on  the  lovely  lawn,  which  is  quite  exten- 
sive,  and  splendidly  furnished  with  hemlock  extensions  and 
stumps.     This    spacious    structure  is   six    by  ten    feet   on 
the  ground,  and  between  four  and  five  feet  high,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  Yankee  too{  of  troughs  in  two  layers,  the  upper 
covering  the  crevices  in  the  lower  so  as  to  exclude  the  rain 
but  separated  far  enough  to  give  perfect  ventilation.    Thii 
chef  (Tafuvre  of  TixchiitciuvQ  is  first  class  in  every  respect    it 
IS  luxuriously  upholstered  throughout  with  spruce  boughs, 
in  the  culinary  department  is  a  stupendous  range  which  floods 
the  drawing  room  with  light,  and,  in  short,  it  contains  all  the 
modem  improvements,  including  hot  and  cold  water,  which  is 
carried  to  every  part  of  the  establishment  in  pails.    Here  we 
gathered,  Crawford's  party  ot  seven,  and  ours,  ten  in  all,  be- 
side  two  or  three  dogs,  in  a  space  about  six  by  eight  feet 
square,  and  while  the  fire  snapped  and  flickered,  filling  the 
shanty  with  dancing  shadows,  stories  of  hunting  and  fishing 
adventures  were  told  that  all  were  expected  to  believe   be- 
cause they  were  personal  experiences,  although  occasionally 
one  would  have  a  familiar  sort  of  sound  with  the  exception 
of  names  and  dates.    Stories  of  personal  prowess  which  cul- 
minated in  one  of  a  man  who  could  pick  up  a  two  barrel  iron 
kettle  by  the  edge  with  his  teeth,  and  the  assertion  by  another 
that  he  knew  a  man  who  could  perform  the  same  feat  sitting 
m  the  kettle  himself  when  he  liaed  it.  which  was  making  light 
of  serious  subjects,  and  so  Phelps  told  his  bear  story,  how 
one  day  near  the  Boreas,  he  saw  a  big  bear  coming  on  the  run 
after  him  and  he,  armed  with  only  a  little  ax.  then  when  the 
bear  got  within  twenty  feet  of  him  he  yelled  "halt."  which 
stopped  the  bear  — he  couldn't  prevaricate,  he  did  it  with  hia 
little  hatchet  — he  didn't  feel  scared  any.  only  stirred  up  like 
but  the  bear  reversed  ends  and  made  off  as  fast  as  it  could 
wabble.    Then  Uncle  Harvey  told  all  about  how  he  killed  a 
bear  with  a  pitchfork  once,  and  a  moose  with  a  club,  after  tir- 
ing him  out  in  the  deep  snow.    "  But.  by  gawl,  boys."  said  he. 
-  When  Dick  Estus  tumbled  over  backward  on  his  snow  shoes 


i 


Breakfas*^ 


175 


BBd  the  cntter  gave  a  lunge  for  him,  I  thought  it  was  all  up 
»eith  him,  but  I  just  gave  command  to  the  boys,  and  at  him  we 
went,  and,  by  gawl,  the  way  we  laid  it  on  his  old  hide  was  a 
caution,  and  there  lay  Dick,  square  on  his  back,  looking  up, 
thinkin'  that  every  minute  was  his  last,  and,  by  gawl,  I  just 
managed  to  get  a  lick  at  the  critter  that  fetched  him  just  as  he 
was  standin'  over  Dick  so,"  and  the  old  hunter  assumed  a  posi- 
tion, indicative  of  an  enraged  moose  preparing  to  come  down  on 
an  unfortunate  little  chap  on  his  back  in  the  snow,  who  couldn't 
turn  over  on  account  of  his  snow-shoes.  Thus  each  had 
their  stories  to  tell  until  time  to  turn  in,  when  four  of  the 
party  went  across  the  pond  to  another  camp,  leaving  six  of  us 
to  occupy  a  space  six  feet  long  by  six  feet  wide,  and  where  we 
slept  on  edge,  like  a  box  of  well-packed  sardines,  until  day- 
light, when  each  man  got  up  and  cut  a  chunk  of  venison,  salt 
pork  or  bacon  as  taste  dictated,  and  each  man  for  himself 
waltzed  around  that  stove  in  the  six  by  ten  shanty  until  he 
had  warmed  it  through  enough  to  suit,  or  disguising  pieces  ol 
raw  material  in  an  outside  coating  of  bread,  proceeded  to 
stow  it  away  with  that  appearance  of  keen  enjoyment  dis- 
played by  the  average  boy  in  taking  a  pill ;  then  a  part  rushed 
away  to  put  out  the  dogs,  others  to  the  various  runways. 
The  old  man  gave  his  attention  to  some  sort  of  a  stew, 
which,  as  he  had  made  no  calculations  on  staying  out  all 
night,  and  the  camp  supplies  had  run  low  in  the  particular 
materials  needed,  was  partially  a  failure  ;  the  professor,  with 
ft  home-sick  sort  of  expression  on  his  face,  was  picking  away 
at  an  ancient  piece  of  bacon,  while  an  enthusiastic  individual 
who  had  wallowed  in  an  ecstacy  of  imaginative  bliss,  theoreti- 
cally, over  venison  stake,  broiled  at  the  blazing  camp  fire, 
was  engaged  in  preparing  a  savory  strip  of  the  same,  which 
as  he  forgot  to  apply  salt,  and  got  hold  of  a  piece  just 
moderately  warm — not  cooked,  at  the  first  bite,  roused  a  rebel- 
lious feeling  within  him,  and  he  felt  the  full  force  of  those 
saddest  of  all  words,  "it  might  have  been  (done,)"  but  it  was 
not  ordained  to  be,  and  at  last,  as  his  mind  kept  running 
on  accounts  of  ship-wrecked  people  who  had  to  eat  each 
other  or  starve,  and  cannibalism  seemed  imminent,  one  of 
the  ^ides  came  in   like  a  dove   bringing — not  the  olive 


t7^  The  Adirondacks. 

branch  exactly — but  a  bag  of  oat-meal,  which  he  made  into 
pan-cakes,  and  those  pan-cakes  went  to  our  hearts  and 
stomachs  like  the  blissful  ecstacy  of  love's  young  dream.  We 
were  saved  !  And  while  we  ate  he  baked  and  brought  them 
forward  and  the  more  we  ate  the  happier  he  seemed  to  feel 
about  it,  none  of  your  little  patty-cakes,  but  great  big  fellows 
the  size  of  the  frying  pan, light  as  sea  foam  almost,  and  making, 
with  maple  sugar,  a  breakfast,  the  which  when  suggested, 
makes  my  mouth  water  to  this  day.  It  was  but  a  little  act  of 
simple  courtesy,  offered,  perhaps,  without  a  thought  of  return; 
but  it  showed  the  willing  disposition,  and  those  pan-cakes 
touched  a  chord  in  the  breast  of  one  individual  at  least  that 
will  vibrate  for  all  time,  and  if  ever  permitted  to  go  there 
again  he  will  ask  for  nothing  better  or  if  reports  be  true,  a 
truer  guide  than  Theo.  White  of  Keene  Flats,  author  of  those 
glorious  pan-cakes. 

After  breakfast  Phelps  took  us  up  the  inlet,  with  its  dark  | 
borders   of  balsam  and  tamarack,  to  the  Elk  Lake  trail,  where 


] 


THE  GREAT  PEAKS  FROM  THE  SOUTH. 


I  Golden  ;    2  Allen  ;    3  Skylights ;    4  Marcy  ;     5    Panther  Gorge  ;    6    Haystack 
7  Basin  ;  8  Saddleback  ;  9  Gothic. 

bidding  him  a  regretful  adieu  (for  we  had  become  attached  to 
the  cheery  Old  Man  of  the  Mountains  in  our  short  acquaint- 
ance) we  started  on  our  tramp  of  sixteen  miles,  out  through 
the  woods  to  Root's,  feeling  that  we  were  nearing  friends  who 
would  be  glad  to  welcome  us  home  ;  clearer  in  thought  and 
stronger  in  body  than  when  we  entered ;  glad  to  go  back  but 
sad  at  thought  of  leaving  the  mountains,  over  which  we  saw 
the  storm  cloud  gather,  break  and  roll  away,  leaving  them 
bathed  in  the  loving  sunshine,  clean,  grand,  strong  and  seem- 
ingly eternal,  as  The  Hand  that  made  them. 


I 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
Luzerne  and  Chestertown. 

UZERNE  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Hudson  and  Sacandaga  rivers,  twenty-two 
miles  north  of  Saratoga.  It  is  inclosed  by 
picturesque,  rounded  hills,  heavily  wooded  to 
their  summits,  save  here  and  there  a  break 
where  some  ledge  looks  out  on  the  valley 
below.  On  the  west  are  the  Kayaderosseras  mountains,  on 
the  east  the  Palmerton  range,  that  has  its  rise  at  Lake 
(jeorge,  and  falls  away  into  the  level  of  Broadway  at  Sara- 
toga; toward  the  north  they  are  broken,  rocky  and  pictur- 
esque. These  are  the  outreaching  spurs  of  the  Adirondack 
that  rest  so  grandly  away  to  the  north,  from  which  the 
Hudson  comes  flowing  quietly  along  until  it  gathers  among 
tiie  great  round  boulders,  then  bounds,  foaming  and  spark- 
ling, over  the  rocks  in  the  exquisite  little  falls  of  Luzerne, 
a.nd  hastens  forward  under  the  bridge  and  downward  to  its 
union  with  the  Sacandaga  at  Ti-se-rafi-do,  "  the  meeting  of 
tlie  waters," 

From  this  down  the  river  to  Jessup's  Landing  is  six 
miles  of  still  water,  then  sweeps  around  almost  north  again. 
At  Palmer's  Falls  it  is  gathered  in  a  narrow  channel,  then 
with  a  multitude  of  little  leaps  and  breaks,  churned  and 
beaten  into  foam  by  its  fall,  it  rests  at  the  bottom  sixty  feet 
below. 

Luzerne  Lake  is  a  pearl  set  in  emerald,  lying  at  quite 
an  elevation  above  the  village  proper ;  a  crystal  drop  on 
the  hill  side,  kept  there  by  a   narrow  embankment  through 


178  The  Adirondacks. 

which  the  outlet  finds  its  way,  and  after  amusing  itself  among 
sets  of  water-wheels,  it  passes  out  into  the  Hudson  and  to  the 
sea. 

The  Wayside  Inn  is  just  north  of  the  village,  facing  the 
lake.  It  has  connected  with  it  a  number  of  cottages  which 
can  be  rented  for  the  season,  affording  altogether  accommoda- 
tions for  about  200  guests.  It  is  an  imposing  structure  with 
numerous  gables,  porches,  piazzas  and  balconies.  The  in- 
terior is  in  keeping — roomy,  rambling,  airy ;  with  pleasant  of- 
fice, dining-room  and  parlor,  and  with  a  charming  outlook  over 
the  lake  and  forest,  and  the  rolling  meadow  land  around.  It 
has  telegraph  station  in  the  office,  and  an  excellent  livery 
within  call.  Guests  are  transferred  to  and  from  all  trains  free. 
E.  C.  King,  for  some  time  chief  clerk,  is  the  manager.  Rates, 
$3.50  to  $4.00  per  day;  open  June  i8th  to  October  ist.        ■I 

Rockwell's  Hotel,  famous  for  years  under  the  management 
of  the  founder,  George  Rockwell,  and  his  son  George  H. 
Rockwell,  and  notable  as  the  school  from  which  H,  J.  Rock- 
well, of  the  Hotel  Kenmore,  Albany,  and  C.  L.  Rockwell,  of 
the  Rockwell  House,  Glens  Falls,  graduated — is  now  no  more. 
It  burned  to  the  ground.  May  18,  and  its  re-building  is  a  ques- 
tion not  yet  decided  upon. 

The  River  View,  standing  just  south  of  Rockwell's  Hotel, 
will  provide  for  about  80  guests.  E.  M.  Garner,  proprietor.^ 
Rates  unknown. 

There  are  many  beautiful  drives  around  Luzerne.     One  es- 
pecially lovely,  is  down  along  the  east  shore    of  the  river,  that' 
is  here   almost  always  in  a  quiet    mood    where  the    trees  that 
hang  over  the  glassy  stream  appear  no  more    perfect  than  the 
reflected  image,  to  Jessup's  Landing,  where  you  may  cross,  inj 
the  primitive  style  of  olden  times,  in  a  scow  that  is  held  from] 
floating  down  with  the  stream  by  a  rope  stretched  from  shore; 
to  shore.     Another,  to  which  a  full  day  should  be  given,  is  to 
Lake  George,  and  still  another  over  the  mountain  to  Glens^ 
Falls. 


\ 


ClIESTERTOWN. 


I^TQ 


Luzerne  is  on  the  old  Indian  trail  from  the  great  villages 
of  the  Mohawks  to  the  head  of  Lake  George.  Here  King 
Hendrick  and  his  braves  encamped  when  on  their  way  to  join 
Johnson  at  the  lake  in  1775. 

North  of  Luzerne  the 
road  runs  along  the  river, 
at  times  crowded  close 
against  its  brink  as  the 
valley  narrows  down  and 
the  mountains  grow  more 
abrupt  and  precipitous. 

Riverside  is  28  miles 
from  Luzerne,  and  50  from  Saratoga.  Here 
the  cars  are  left  for  Chestertown  and 
Schroon  Lake,  otherwise  the  place  is  of 
little  interest,  save  in  the  graceful  suspen- 
sion bridge  which  is  thrown  across  from 
shore  to  shore. 

Chestertown  is  a  thriving  little  village 
of  about  200  inhabitants,  lying  six  miles 
east  of  Riverside.  Its  environment  is  picturesque,  with  lakes 
and  valleys  and  with  rolling  hills  that  rise  in  places  to  be  con- 
siderable mountains.  The  roads  about  it  are  interesting,  and 
riding  and  driving  the  popular  amusement ;  but,  still,  only  a 
short  walk  is  needed  to  reach  woods  where  partridges  and  the 
smaller  game  are  found.  The  lakes  near  by  afford  superior 
bass  fishing. 

The  Chester  House  is  on  high  ground  in  the  village.  It 
is  three  stories  high,  with  pleasant  piazzas,  and  is  fronted  by 
a  nice  grove  of  maples.  It  was  for  years  popular  under  the 
management  of  M.  H.  Downs,  when  it  earned  the  reputation 
of  spreading  one  of  the  best  of  tables.  It  is  now  under  Harry 
S.  Downs,  son  of  the  former  proprietor,  who,  with  consid- 
erable experience  in  the  business,  adds  a  pleasant  presence, 
an  obliging  disposition,  and  youthful  zeal  and  enterprise. 
This  house  will  care  for  about  150  guests.  Rates,  $2  per  day; 
$10  to  $12  per  week. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


ScHROON  Lake. 

CHROON  LAKE  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the 
most  popular  semi-wilderness  resorts  in  the 
country  ;  it  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  m  cun- 
tains,  not  high,  but  wild  and  rugged,  and 
broken  into  curious  fragmentary  masses,  grow- 
ing smoother  as  you  approach  the  north  end. 
It  is  nearly  ten  miles  in  length,  perhaps  two  wide,  and 
divided  in  two  nearly  equal  portions  at  the  narrows.  It 
receives  the  waters  of  Paradox  and  other  lakes  and  streams 
at  the  north  and  empties  through  Schroon  river  into  the 
Hudson  at  Thurman.  The  shores  are  low,  receding  in 
g;entle  slopes  for  a  distance,  then  rise  up  into  the  mountains 
surrounding  it.  Near  the  southern  extremity  is  Pottersville ; 
3,t  the  north  the  village  of  Schroon  Lake.  It  is  reached 
usually  by  the  Adirondack  Railroad,  from  Saratoga  to 
Riverside,  then  by  stage  to  the  outlet,  and  by  steamer  to 
the  village  at  its  head.  Distance  from  Saratoga,  65  miles ; 
fire,  $3.75. 

The  Leavitt  Stage  Line,  between  Riverside  and  Schroon 
Lake,  is  not  unworthy  of  special  notice,  the  ride  affording  a 
pleasant  change  from  the  cars,  giving  variety,  without  con- 
tinuing long  enough  to  become  wearisome,  followed  by  the 
halt  for  dinner,  and  the  race  to  the  steamboat  in  the  open 
wagons.  The  four-horse  coaches  used  here  are  of  the  well- 
known  Concord  build.  The  stock  is  first-class,  and  the 
drivers  are  of  the  most  reliable,  Eugene  Leavitt,  proprietor 
of  the  line,  being  considered  one  of  tne  best  whips  in  the 


SCHROON   T.AKE. 


iSl 


country.  Six-horse,  tally-ho  stages  run  to  tlic  iiiaiu  trains, 
and  hghter  wagons  of  this  line  connect  morning  and  evening, 
with  the  "sleeper"  at  Riverside. 

PoTTERSViLLE  HoTEL  is  six  mlles  from  Riverside.  it  is 
the  regular  dining  place  for  passengers  going  or  coming,  and 

furnishes  a  wholesome 
and  most  substantial 
dinner.  John  B.  Wells, 
for  sometime  its 
manager,  is  now  owner 
and  proprietor,  having 
secured  this  property  by 
purchase.  Mr.  AVellsis 
a  young  man,  full  of 
energy,  and  brings  to 
the  business  experience  of  value 
from  the  Wells  House  on  Schroon 
Lake.  The  house  is  comfortably 
furnished,  and  affords  pleasant  ac- 
commodations to  those  who  may 
prefer  this  to  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  lake.  Trout  Brook, 
running  close  by  the  house,  affords 
very  good  sport,  while  river  and  lake  fishing-ground  is  easily 
readied.  At  the  northwest  the  country  is  extremely  wild. 
Rates  for  board  are  $2  per  day;  $7  to  $10  per  week. 

The  Steamboat  Landing  is  at  the  outlet  of  Schroon  Lake, 
something  less  than  a  mile  from  Pottersville.  Here  the 
*'Efifingham,"  Captain  Sam  Russell,  waits  the  coming  stage. 
The  sail  through  Schroon  Lake  is  delightful,  and  not  so  long 
continued  as  to  become  tedious.     Fare  75  cents. 

Adirondack  is  a  hamlet  on  the  east,  four  miles  from  the 
outlet. 


1 82  The  Adirondacks. 

As  the  little  steamer  swings  slowly  around  and  starts  away 
on  her  nine  mile  trip  through  the  lake  we  see  that  the  moun- 
tains are  all  around,  and  although  other  lake  gems  may  have 
a  grander  setting,  there  are  few  with  greater  variety  and  none 
with  lovelier  shores.  On  the  southwest  are  the  great  rough 
mountain  ribs  and  knobs  that  gather  around  Pottersville ;  to- 
ward the  north  they  soften  down  for  some  distance ;  then  be- 
yond we  see  the  sharp  outlines  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  catch 
glimpses  of  Mount  Dix,  the  Dial  and  the  numberless,  name- 
less peaks  that  cluster  around  Tahawus — the  cloud  splitter — 
seen  at  one  point,  faint  and  blue  with  distance. 

Adirondack  is  on  the  east  side,  on  the  stream  of  the  same 
name.  It  is  four  miles  from  the  other,  quite  a  stirring  Httle 
place,  fragrant  with  the  odorous  smell  of  tanbark  and  popu- 
lar with  a  good  class  of  summer  visitors. 

Watch  Rock  Hotel  is  just  beyond  the  northern  border 
of  the  little  village  in  a  luxuriant  grove  that  extends  towards 
the  north  along  the  lake  and  backward  to  the  mountains.  Its 
environments  bespeak  a  thrift  and  enterprise  that  has  placed 
it  on  a  par  with  the  leading  hotels  of  the  Adirondacks.  It  has 
connected  with  it  several  cottages,  some  of  them  occupied  by 
their  owners,  while  others  form  a  part — and  a  very  delightful 
part — of  the  hotel  accommodations.  One  notable  feature  is 
a  series  of  springs  of  fresh  mountain  water,  famous  for  purity, 
coldness  and  healthful  properties,  taking  rank  as  such  among 
the  uncommon  ones  of  the  mountains.  Accommodations  are 
here  afforded  for  about  124  -guests.  Rates  $3.00  per  day  ; 
$14.00  to  $18.00  per  week.  Open  from  June  15th  to  Octo- 
ber.    George  Cecil,  proprietor. 

Steamers  connecting  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  with  stages  for 
the  railroad,  land  at  every  trip.     Fare,  50  cents. 

The  Taylor  House  and  Cottages  are  located  on  Lake 
View  Point,  nearly  opposite  Adirondack.  In  addition  to  the 
main  building  used  as  a  general  dining,  room,  parlor  and  of- 
fices, there  are  fifteen  or  more   cottages  of  various  forms  and 


The  Adirondacks.  183 

sizes  scattered  among  the  trees  and  presenting  altogether  a 
very  attractive  picture.  Capacity  of  all  about  175.  The 
house  and  grounds  are  lighted  h^  electricity.  The  accommo- 
dations and  fare  are  excellent.  Rates  from  $14.00  to  $21.00 
per  week  ;  $2.50  to  $3.00  per  day.  C.  F.  Taylor  &  Son,  pro- 
prietors. P.  O.,  Taylor' s-on-Schroon,  Warren  Co.,  N.  Y. 
The  steamboat  lands  on  all  trips  to  and  from  the  outlet.  Fare, 
50  cents. 


34  5 

schkodn  lake  village  fkom  south. 
1  Dock;  2  Ondawa  House  ;  3  Lake  House  ;  4  Windsor;  5  Leiand  House. 

ScHROON  Lake  in  general,  we  have  spoken  of.  Schroon 
Lake  in  particular  means  the  collection  of  little  houses  and 
big  hotels  at  its  head.  Like  the  inhabitants  of  Caldwell, 
who  embezzled  the  entire  name  of  Lake  George,  for  postal 
purposes,  the  little  village  here  has  swooped  down  and 
gobbled  up  "  Schroon  Lake,"  without  regard  to  the  rights  or 
feelings  of  those  who  may  locate  at  different  points  along  its 
shores,  and  who,  when  they  have  occasion  to  say  they  live  at 
Schroon  Lake,  find  it  necessary  to  explain  that  they  mean 
only  near  the  water  thereof. 

The  little  village  is,  however,  worthy  of  the  best  name  on 
record,  if  beauty  of  location  and  general  appearance  entitles 
one  to  such.  The  main  street  through  which  the  road  runs 
to  the  north  is  a  fine  shaded  avenue,  the  land  sloping  down 
to  the  edge  of  the  lake,  displaying  the  whole  in  a  very 
pretty  manner.  It  is  a  thoroughly  wide  awake  town,  show- 
ing a  degree  of  enterprise  that  many  larger  places  might 
well  be  proud  of;  daily  mails  are  maintained  throughout  the 
year;  the  telegraph  brings  it  in  direct  communication  with 
the  great  cities.     The  churches  are  good — although  Schroon 


ScHROON  Lake. 

Lake  doesn't  rely  much  on  its  churches.  The  hotel  accom- 
modations are  first-class,  while  the  enterprise  of  their  propri- 
etors, together  with  the  fine  •natural  attractions  of  the  place, 
has  earned  for  this  a  world-wide  reputation,  standing  secc  nd 
only  to  Lake  George  —  ahead  of  it,  even,  with  those  who  de- 
light to  point  the  rifle  or  cast  the  fly.  The  society  here  is  of 
a  refined  class,  scarcely  any  of  the  rowdy  element  finding  its 
way  in,  for  the  bright  skies,  the  waving  fields,  the  far-reaching 
forests,  and  the  grand  freedom  of  the  mountains,  possess  little 
that  is  congenial  to  the  tastes  of  such. 

The  Grove  Point  House  is  about  a  half-mile  south  of 
the  village,  and  the  steamboat  lands  here  on  its  regular  trips. 
The  house  is  attractive  of  itself,  and  is  picturesque  in  its  sur. 
roundings.  It  prospers  because  its  manager  is  thorough,  en- 
ergetic, and  withal,  obliging.  It  contains  many  of  the  con- 
veniences and  appliances  of  the  modern  hotel,  including  elec- 
tric bells.  Accommodations  are  here  ofl"ered  for  about  75 
guests.  Rates,  $2  per  day;  $8  to  $12  per  week.  An  illus- 
trated circular,  giving  particulars,  will  be  sent  on  application. 
Captain  W.  A.  Mackenzie. 

As  we  approach  the  village,  the  most  prominent  objects  are 
the  hotels  —  the  Leland  House,  on  the  high  ground  at  the 
right;  the  Schroon  Lake  House,  near  the  water's  edge;  over 
this,  the  Windsor  House,  and  the  Ondawa,  among  the  trees 
at  the  left  of  the  Lake  House. 

The  Leland  House  is  the  leading  hotel  of  Schroon  Lake. 
From  its  commanding  position  it  overlooks  the  lake  in  three 
directions  —  south,  east,  and  north,  and,  on  the  west,  the 
village  and  the  hills  beyond.  On  its  south  front  is  a  broad, 
high  piazza,  double  at  the  ends;  and,  in  front  of  this,  a  grand 
-^ort-coachare  —  a  pleasant  and  duly  appreciated  feature  of  a 
sunny  day.  An  observatory  on  the  top  of  the  building  is  107 
feet  above  the  lake,  and  gives  a  view  of  rare  beauty  and  con- 
sidvirable  extent,  showing  the  full  reach  of  the  lake  at  the 
south,  and  a  charming  picture  of  Schroon  Valley  toward  the 


1 86  The  Adirondacks. 

proportions.  Its  rooms  are  large  and  well  furnished.  New 
mattresses  have  been  added  during  the  past  year  and  the  usual 
refurnishing  done  throughout.  A  pleasant  feature  of  the 
house — hibernically  speaking — is  its  open  platform  outside  over- 
hanging the  lake  shore,  and  itself  overshadowed  by  wide- 
spread trees,  affording  one  of  the  most  delightful  imaginable 
resting  places  of  a  sultry  afternoon  or  evening.  Underneath 
this  platform,  in  the  bank,  is  a  cold  spring  from  which  the  wa- 
ter is  forced  up  into  the  house.  The  hotel,  as  conducted  by 
Mr.  Riddell  last  year,  has  been  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms 
by  old  guests.  A  generous  policy  marks  the  new  manage- 
ment and  can  not  fail  to  attract  visitors  and  bring  success. 

The  Ondawa  is  just  west  of  the  Lake  House,  among  the 
trees  that  nearly  hide  it  from  sight  when  viewed  from  the  lake. 
It  will  provide  for  about  loo  people.  Board  costs  from  $2.00 
to  $2.50  per  day;  $10.00  to  $14.00  per  week.  Open  June 
I  St.  Maurice  O'Connor,  proprietor.  This  is  one  of  the  old- 
est houses  of  the  section.  It  has  always  maintained  a  high 
reputation  for  wholesome  fare  and  comfortable  accommoda- 
tions, and  has  been  for  years  a  resort  of  note  for  sportsmen 
visiting  Schroon  Lake.  On  the  side  towards  the  water  are 
comfortable  piazzas  looking  out  on  a  small  park  belonging  to 
the  house,  shaded  heavily  with  stately  maples  and  elms  and 
shut  out  from  the  outer  world  by  a  magnificent  hedge  along  its 
entire  front.  The  proprietor  is  obliging  and  indicates  a  dis- 
position to  do  everything  possible  to  sustain  the  good  standing 
of  the  house.  Those  who  have  been  his  guests  in  the  past 
will  need  no  recommendation  to  come  again. 

The  Windsor  Hotel  is  west  of  the  Leland  House.  C.  L. 
Hunter,  proprietor.  It  has  capacity  for  about  60  guests. 
Rates,  $2.00  per  day;  $10.00  to  $12.00  per  week.  Open 
June  to  October  loth.  There  has  been  an  entire  change 
in  the  management  here  with  a  general  refitting  and  added  im- 
provements. E.  E.  Hunter,  formerly  of  this  house  and  later 
of  Hotel  Emmett,  is  manager.  C.  W.  Bur  well,  late  of  the 
Ondawa,  clerk. 


I 


I 


ScHROON  Valley.  187 

The  Leland  Cottage,  on  Main  street,  has  accommoda- 
tions for  about  25.  Rates,  from  $6.00  to  $9.00  per  week.  J. 
M.  Leland,  proprietor.  The  Prospect  House,  also  on  the 
main  street  of  the  village,  will  provide  for  about  30  guests  at 
$9  to  $12  per  week.  J.  A.  Pitkin  &  Brother,  proprietors. 
Stages  run  mornings  from  Schroon  Lake  to  Hammondville, 
1 1  miles  distant.  Fare,  $1.50.  Connec. 
tion  is  made  over  the  Crown  Point  Iron 
Co.'s  railroad,  with  afternoon  train  on  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  Railroad. 
Paradox  Lake   is   four   miles   north  o^ 


CROWH 


Schroon.  It  is  four  miles  long,  measured  east  and  west.  At 
its  west  end  the  shores  are  low  and  smooth ;  at  the  east,  abrupt 
and  rugged. 

Paradox  House,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Lake,  two  miles 
from  its  outlet,  is  noted  for  trout  dinners. 

Root's  Hotel  is  nine  miles  north  of  Schroon  Lake,  27 
east  of  Newcomb,  23  south  of  Elizabethtown,  and  17  west  of 
Port  Henry.  A  stage  will  run  between  Root's  and  Port 
Henry  daily  from  June  2d  to  September  8th.  This  house  has 
a  new  proprietor  in  the  person  of  A.  Carson,  who  promises  to 
revive  the  ancient  glory  of  Root's  with  the  added  conveniences 
of  more  modern  days.  Hunting  and  fishing  are  to  be  made 
the  great  attractions,  and  facilities  for  sport  are  not  wanting. 
Repairs  have  been  made  on  the  house  with  a  general  renova- 
tion and  refurnishing.  Accomodations  are  offered  for  75 
guests.  There  is  no  more  delightful  or  picturesque  point  in 
the  noted  valley  of  the  Schroon  than  right  here  where  stands 
the  famous  old  "Root  Inn." 

Toward  the  west,  between  the  mountain  whose  jagged  sides 
come  down  to  the  edge  of  the  valley,  runs  the  road  to  the 
Boreas  region,  Newcome,  and  Long  Lake. 

Elk  Lake  is  reached  by  leaving  this  road  five  miles  east  of 
Root's,  and  proceeding  northward  thence,  by  a  good  road, 
five  miles  further.  From  this  point  the  trail  leads  over  Boreas 
Mountain  to  the  head  of  Upper  Au  Sable  Lake,  about  six 
miles  distant,  for  which  see  page  168. 


VIBWS  ON  THE  ADIRONDACK   RAILWAY. 


North  Creek.  189 

North  from  Root's  stretches  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Schroon,  until  the  gradually  approaching  mountains  on  either 
side  come  together  at  Deadwater,  where  the  waters  of  the 
Schroon  River,  here  a  mere  brook,  are  gathered  and  begin 
their  winding  way  southward. 

At  Euba  Mills,  13  miles  north  of  Root's,  roads  diverge— 
the  one  bearing  toward  the  riglit  leading  down  through  Pleas- 
ant Valley,  to  Elizabethtown,  10  miles;  the  other  toward  the 
left,  upward  through  Chapel  Pond  Gorge  to  Keen  Valley, 
about  six  miles  distant.  For  these  points,  see  pages  148  and 
152  respectively. 


North  Creek  is  the  terminus  of  the  Adirondack  Railroad, 
and  the  point  of  departure  for  Newcomb,  the  Adirondack 
Iron  Works,  via  Minerva,  and  for  Blue  Mountain  and 
Raquette  Lakes. 

Through  the  summer  trains  run  twice  daily  each  way,  and 
a  night  train,  with  through  sleeping  car  attached,  leaves  Grand 
Central  Depot,  New  York,  at  7.30  p.  m.,  arriving  at  North 
Creek  early  in  the  morning. 

The  American,  a  short  distance  from  the  depot,  is  the  best 
hotel  at  North  Creek,  and  provides  good,  substantial  fare  at 
the  very  reasonable  rate  of  $6  to  $10  per  week;  transient 
guests,  $2  per  day.  John  Mclnerny,  proprietor.  Mr.  Mcln- 
erny  will  also  furnish  horses  and  light  or  heavy  carriages,  for 
interior  places,  at  reasonable  prices.  Parties  for  Aiden  Lair, 
Newcomb  Lakes,  or  the  section  around  the  Adirondack  Iron 
Works,  not  reached  by  daily  stage,  will  find  it  advisable  to 
make  arrangements  for  conveyances  at  this  point. 

Minerva  is  eight  and  a  half  miles  distant.  Stage  runs  on 
arrival  of  noon  train.  Stage  leaves  Minerva  for  Long  Lake 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  via  Aiden  Lair,  eight  miles — a 
"gamey"  country,  and  a  very  good  fishing  locaHty — and  New- 
comb, 14  miles  farther,  for  which  see  page  124. 

Stages  leave  for  Blue  Mountain  Lake  on  arrival  of  trains  at 
North  Creek,  morning  and  noon.     The  morning  stage  con- 


iQO  The  Adirondacks. 

nects  at  Blue  Mountain  Lake  with  steamer  for  Raquette  Lake, 

all  landings — and  with  stage  for  Long  Lake.     Stage  leaving 

on  arrival  of  noon  train  reaches  Blue  Mountain  Lake  for  sup- 
per. Stages,  fare,  North  Creek  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  $3. 
Patent  canopy-top  buckboards,  may  be  had  by  paying  an  ad- 
ditional sum,  for  which  apply  to  the  stage  agent  at  either  end 
of  the  route,  personally  or  by  mail  or  telegraph. 

The  North  River  Hotel  is  five  miles  from  North  Creek. 
W.  IT.  Roblee,  proprietor.  This  is  the  regular  dining  place 
for  all  passengers  over  this  road  in  going  in  or  coming  out  of  the 
woods,  and  provides  a  meal  seldom  equalled  in  its  wholesome- 
ness  and  hunger-satisfying  nature.  Stages  run  as  far  as  this 
point,  on  arrival  of  the  evening  train  from  the  south,  bringing 
such  as  may  desire  to  remain  over  and  be  fortified  with  a 
night's  rest  and  one  or  more  of  mine  host  Roblee's  excellent 
meals  for  the  longer  ride  of  the  morrow,  and  it  is  recom- 
mended that  those  not  over  robust  break  the  journey  here, 
taking  buckboards  for  the  interior  in  the  morning.  A  day  or 
more  can  be  spent  here  to  advantage,  either  for  rest  or  sport. 
The  surrounding  country  affords  excellent  fishing  and  the 
smaller  game,  and  is  within  easy  walking  distance  of  pomts 
where  the  larger  kinds  may  be  found.  The  house  will  provide 
for  40  guests.  Rates,  $2.50  per  day;  $10  to  $15  per  week; 
meals,  75  cents.  Connection  with  the  Western  Union  Tele- 
graph is  made  at  this  point. 

Thirteenth  Lake  is  four  miles  west,  and  is  reached  over 
a  very  good  road.  It  is  about  three  miles  in  length  by  half  mile 
wide,  and  1,952  feet  above  tide.  It  affords  excellent  fishing, 
and  the  wild  country  around  it  is  noted  hunting  ground. 

A  short  distance  above  North  River  we  climb  up  through  a 
high  notch  at  the  west,  rising  a  thousand  feet  in  something 
less  than  four  miles,  then  descending  gradually,  cross  a  stretch 
of  burnt  land  to  Indian  River. 

The  Indian  River  Hotel,  with  capacity  for  40,  is  at  the 
crossing,  11  miles  from  North  River.  Frank  Moody,  pro- 
prietor. 


Indian  Lake.  191 

The  Seven  Chain  Lakes  are  at  the  north,  about  seven 
miles  distant,  and  reached  over  an  indifferent  road.  Bonney's 
little  hotel  is  on  the  third  lake,  which  is  the  largest  of  the 
group,  being  about  two  miles  in  length.  From  the  fifth  lake 
a  land-and-water  route  leads  north  to  Newcomb,  something 
over  ten  miles  distance. 

Indian  Lake  (P.  O.)  is  one  mile  west  of  Indian  River.  A 
few  houses  at  intervals  along  the  road,  and  a  very  comfortable 
looking  hotel  called  the  Ordway  house,  with  stores,  and  a 
post-office,  constitute  the  village. 

Indian  Lake  (that  is  the  lake  proper),  is  about  two  miles 
south  of  the  village.  The  original  lake  was  about  three  miles 
long,  but  its  overflow  sets  back  in  times  of  high-water,  increas- 
ing its  length  to  something  more  than  twelve  miles. 

Lewey  Lake  is  twelve  miles  south  of  Indian  Lake  Village. 
The  overflow  of  Indian  Lake  at  times  reaches  back  to  the  falls 
at  outlet  of  Lewey  Lake.  In  low  water  the  river  between  the 
two  is  navigable,  with  the  exception  of  a  short  carry  around 
the  falls  above  mentioned,  A  little  hotel  at  the  head  of 
Lewey  Lake  is  kept  by  J.  McCormick.  Will  accommodate 
about  40.     P.  O.,  Indian  Lake. 

Cedar  Lakes  are  reached  by  a  rough  eight-mile  trail  from 
this  point  west,  or  by  road  from  Lake  Pleasant,  or  via  Cedar 
River  route,  from  the  Blue  Mountain  Lake  road. 

The  West  Canada  Lakes,  belonging  to  another  system, 
and  discharging  into  the  Mohawk,  may  be  reached  from  the 
Cedar  Lakes  by  short  carries. 

•t^  ^l^  5|c  ^(t  -Jit  v  V 

Lake  Pleasant  can  be  visited  best  via  the  Fonda,  Johns- 
town and  Gloversville  railroad  to  Northville,  thence  by  stage 
to  Sageville.  Sacandaga  Park,  at  the  terminus  of  the  railroad, 
one-fourth  mile  from  Northville,  has  a  commodious  and  well 
kept  hotel,  and  a  number  of  handsome  summer  cottages  be- 
longing to  private  parties. 

Sageville,  the  county  seat  of  Hamilton  County,  is  a  scat- 
tered village  or  40  or  50  families,  centered  at  the  southwestern 


192  The  Adirondacks. 

extremity  of  Lake  Pleasant,  and  between  it  and  Round  Lake. 

The  Lake  Pleasant  Inn,  formerly  kept  by  George  A. 
McCoy,  is  now  under  the  proprietorship  of  J.  D.  Morley. 
The  amount  of  energy  infused  into  the  business  under  the 
new  management  bids  fair  to  make  it  one  of  the  noted  resorts 
of  the  wilderness.  Improvements  have  been  made,  and  new 
furniture  added.  Accomodations  are  now  offered  for  50 
guests.  Board  $2.00  per  day;  $9.00  to  $12.00  per  week 
with  special  rates  for  early  and  late  visitors.  Open  all  the 
year.  Telegraph  and  Post  Office  in  the  house.  Northville 
stage  runs  daily  connecting  with  trains.  Fare  $2.00.  Ar- 
rangements may  be  made  for  special  conveyance  by  address- 
ing the  manager  of  the  house.  Guides  and  necessaries  for 
hunting  and  fishing  can  be  secured  here,  and  livery  rigs  for 
land  excursions.  Fred.  H.  Smith,  manager,  P.  O.  address, 
Sageville,  N.  Y. 

"  Kun-Ja-Muck,"  formerly  Call's  Hotel,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Mrs.  Anna  A.  McMartin  will  provide  for  50  guests. 

Lake  Pleasant  is  about  four  miles  long.  At  the  norths 
western  extremity  of  the  lake  is  the  Sturgess  House. 

PiSECo  Lake  is  about  six  miles  southwest  of  Sageville,  and 
"•fiords  good  fishing. 

Cedar  River  is  20  miles  from  North  Creek.  From  this 
point  in  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  10  miles,  the  road  is  through 
almost  continuous  forest  save  the  occasional  opening  made  by 
some  stalwart  settler,  and  the  to-be-expected  "Half-way" 
house  where  the  horses  are  watered  and  allowed  to  get  their 
breath  while  the  expectant  landlord  stands  invitingly  ready  to 
serve  the  passengers  with  stronger  liquid.  Note  in  passing 
the  devastation  caused  by  the  cyclone  of '88. 

Blue  Mountain  Lake  is  fairly  in  the  Great  North  Woods. 
It  is  the  opening  of  communication  by  boat  with  the  magnifi- 
cent system  of  lakes  and  streams  which  cover  so  large  a  por- 
tion of  the  Adirondack  wilderness.  It  rests  1,800  feet  above 
tide,  is  an  irregular  oval  in  shape,  extends  nearly  three  miles 


Blue  Mountain  Lake.  193 

its  longest  way,  and  empties  at  the  west,  through  Eagle  and 
Utowana  lakes  into  Raquette  Lake. 

Blue  Mountain  Lake  House  is  on  the  east  shore  of  the 
deep  bay  which  first  appears  as  we  approach  from  North 
Creek.  The  first  hotel  at  Blue  Mountain  Lake  was  built  here 
in  1874,  by  Dr.  G.  R.  Martine,  of  Glen  Falls,  N.  Y.,  to  whose 
energy  and  far-sightedness  much  credit  is  due  for  the  initiatory 
in  opening  up  this  now  popular  gateway  into  the  Adirondacks, 
and  for  whose  unswerving  belief  in  the  valuable  curative 
properties  of  this  high  mountain  region,  many  have  reason  to 
feel  grateful.  The  old  house  was  burnt  to  the  ground  in 
1886  ;  but,  with  the  same  energy  which  has  characterized  the 
management  in  all  its  undertakings,  arrangements  were  imme- 
diately made  for  its  rebuilding  on  the  old  site.  This  new 
house  is  spacious  and  attractive.  The  main  part  is  four 
stories  high  and  150  feet  long,  with  fine,  broad  piazza,  facing 
the  lake,  and  a  rear  extension,  almost  as  large  as  the  main 
building;  giving,  with  the  cottages,  accommodations  for  over 
300  guests.  It  stands  on  an  elevation,  overlooking  a  grove  of 
native  trees,  through  which  paths  lead  down  to  the  sandy 
beach,  from  which  the  steamboat  starts  on  its  daily  trips  down 
the  lake.  Ten  outlying  cottages,  among  the  trees,  afford  very 
desirable  quarters  for  those  who  may  prefer  apartments  re- 
moved from  the  stir  and  bustle  of  a  great  hotel.  Telegraph 
office  connecting  with  the  Western  Union  system,  and  stage 
and  steamboat  ticket  offices,  are  in  the  hotel.  Stateroom  and 
sleeping  car  berths  can  be  secured  here.  Board,  $3  per  day, 
with  special  rates  for  the  week  or  season,  according  to  rooms 
and  accommodations.     John  G.  Holland,  proprietor. 

Mr.  Holland  is  the  pioneer  hotel  man  of  this  section.  He 
is  genial,  accommodating,  and  popular,  winning  the  esteem  of 
his  guests ;  so  that  those  who  have  once  enjoyed  his  hospi- 
tality are  generally  his  warm  advocates  thereafter.  With  him 
the  old  house  had  a  patronage  greater,  perhaps,  according  to 
its  capacity,  than  any  other  one  in  the  wilderness,  and  under 
him  the  new  one  must  likewise  prosper. 


Blue  Mountain  Lake.  195 

The  Blue  Mountain  House  is  about  a  mile  nortK  of  the 
Lake  House.     It  stands  on  the  side  of  Blue  Mountain,   200 
feet  above  the  lake,  to  which  the  surface  of  the  ground  drops 
sharply.     The  view  is  one  of  the  loveliest  imaginable,  reveal- 
ing the  lake  in  its  entirety,  the  island  studded  plain  at  our 
feet,  the  receding  clusters  of  islands,  the  sinuous  shores  lead- 
ing away  to    the    outlet,  and  over  beyond  it  the  lengthened 
reach   of  Eagle  Lake,  with  a  glimpse  of  Utowana  and  the 
verdant    slopes    that    compass     about     the    shores    of    the 
queenly  Raquette.      A    path  leads   down  through  the  thick 
forest  to  where  a  fleet  of  dainty  Adirondack  boats  lie  snugly  in 
boat  house  or  at  rest  on  the  sandy  beach.     Accommodations 
are  provided  for  about  80  guests  in  the  main  building  and  ad- 
joining cottages.     The    fare    is    wholesome    and    abundant, 
cleanly  and  appetizing,  the  service  kindly  and   willing  from 
the   proprietor   down.       Its    altitude    makes   it    a    desirable 
place  for  those  who  suffer  from  hay-fever.      A  free  carriage, 
conveys  guests  to  and  from  the  Blue  Mountain  Lake  House, 
to  connect  with  the  stage,  and  stages  pass  the  house  daily  for 
Long  Lake,  eight  miles  distant.     (For  Long  Lake  see  page 
113.)     Altogether,  the   Mountain  House  possesses  more  than 
the  average  number  of  favorable    counts   among   Adirondack 
hotels.     Rates  here  are  $2  to  $2.50  per  day;  $10  to  $15  per 
week.     Open  from  June  ist  to  October  15th.     Telegraph  of- 
fice in  the  house.     D.  H.  Hall,  proprietor. 

Mr.  Hall,  coming  to  this  section  for  the  benefit  of  his 
health,  records  his  opinion  in  the  most  practical  way  by  set- 
tUng  permanently.  He  brought  experience  of  value  to  the 
house  and  now  succeeds  Merwin  &  Hall  as  sole  proprietor. 

Fair  View  House  is  in  the  gathering  village  of  Blue 
Mountain  Lake,  on  the  road  that  leads  from  the  Lake  House, 
around  the  shore,  to  the  Prospect  House.  It  has  mostly  a 
local  patronage  and  is  moderate  in  price. 

The  Prospect  House,  built  in  1881,  vs  one  of  the  largest 
of  the  Adirondack  houses,  and  is,  considering  the  difficulty  at- 
tending the  work  at  the  time  of  its  erection,  a  marvel  among 
hotels. 


19^  The  Adirondacks. 

The  Prospect  House  will  accommodate  500  guests.  Price 
of  board,  $4  to  $5  per  day ;  $21  and  upward  per  week;  ser- 
vants half  price.  During  the  winter,  guests  are  entertained 
in  a  larger  cottage  under  the  same  management.  George  W. 
Tunnicliff,  manager. 

A  small  boat  of  the  Blue  Mountain  and  Raquette  Lake 
Steamboat  line,  the  "  Toowahloondah,"  of  light  draft,  that 
it  may  pass  easily  through  the  shallow  streams  connecting 
the  lakes,  leaves  the  hotel  docks  morning  and  afternoon, 
and  passing  through  this  and  Eagle  and  Utowana  lakes  and 
streams,  connects  at  Marion  River  Gary  with  steamer  for  Ra- 
quette lake  landings.  The  mere  fact  of  going  on  the  little 
steamer,  with  the  vast  and  reverberatory  name,  is  not  all  there 
is  in  this  trip,  although  of  itself  a  pleasure.  The  excursion  is 
one  of  the  most  delightful  ones  of  the  wilderness,  a  source  of 
continued  surprise  and  enjoyment,  introducing  as  it  were,  the 
traveler  to  the  wild  woods  and  lakes  in  the  mildest  manner 
possible,  and  giving  him  just  a  suggestion  of  the  difficulties  of 
portage  between  waters  that  he  will  find  later  on.  The  line 
belongs  to  W.  W.  Durant,  ex-President  of  the  Adirondack 
Railroad  and  owner  of  a  number  of  townships  around  the 
lakes.  It  is  thoroughly  equipped  and  adapted  to  the  particu- 
lar needs  of  the  traffic,  and  while  working  on  systematized 
lines  with  clock-like  regularity,  is  not  obtrusively  formal  and 
fits  in  admirably  with  its  surrounding  conditions.  Extra  boats 
are  subject  to  charter  and  afford  interesting  means  of  explor- 
ing the  nooks  and  by-ways  of  lakes  and  tributary  streams.  J. 
G.  Thompson,  Superintendent. 

As  we  pass  out  into  the  open  lake  Blue  Mountain  rises  in 
graceful  outline  behind  us.  On  its  western  slope,  high  above 
the  water,  are  the  Mountain  House  and  cottages ;  nearer  is 
Thatcher's  Island,  the  property  of  Ex-Mayor  Thatcher,  of  Al- 
bany, with  the  cottage  at  its  east  end.  On  the  point  project- 
ing from  the  south  shore,  near  the  outlet,  is  the  attractive 
summer  place  of  Colonel  Duryea,  of  New  York. 


1 


Eagle  Lake.  19; 

Passing  through  the  outlet  with  slackened  speed,  responding, 
perhaps,  to  the  request  of  the  Commodore  to  come  out  for- 
ward to  get  her  stern  up  away  from  the  bottom,  and  by  aid  of 
steam  and  pikepole  we  round  the  short  bend,  pass  under  the 
bridge,  and  out  into  the  waters  of  Eagle  Lake. 

Eagle  Lake  is  about  one  mile  long,  with  low  wooded 
shores,  except  a  clearing  on  the  north  side.  The  old  log  house 
standing  near  the  shore  is  the  "  Eagle's  Nest,"  where  Ned 
Buntline  came  years  ago,  and  under  the  tree,  near  the  house, 
lies  the  bride  he  brought  and  buried  there. 

A  somewhat  longer  stream  than  the  one  we  have  just 
passed  out  of,  leads  through  drowned  lands,  from  Eagle  into 
Utowana  Lake.  This  lake  is  about  two  miles  long,  narrow 
and  straight,  running  away  toward  the  west.  Passing  into  its 
outlet  we  soon  reach  the  landing,  where  we  find  the  rustic 
waiting-room  and  the  dam,  which  has  raised  the  water, 
making  navigable  the  streams  between  the  lakes.  From  this 
landing  a  road  leads  to  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  Marion 
River,  one  mile  distant.  You  have  noticed,  perhap*,  that  the 
steamer  whistled  some  ways  back,  and  as  we  approach,  a  one- 
horse  wagon,  with  a  rigging  something  like  a  hay-rack,  makes 
its  appearance.  Into  this  the  baggage  is  tumbled,  the  boats 
tied  on  (if  any  are  there  to  be  carried),  and  the  weaker  mem- 
bers of  the  party,  or  those  who  may  prefer  to  ride,  take  their 
places.  But  few  do  care  to  ride,  for  this  carry  is  simply  an 
excellent  road  through  the  woods,  resembling  in  no  respect 
the  slippery  carries  of  the  back  country.  At  its  west  end,  we 
find  another  steamer,  somewhat  larger  than  the  one  we  have 
just  left  but  belonging  to  the  some  family,  as  you  will  con- 
clude from  its  jaw-breaking  Indian  name,  which  is  considered 
the  proper  thing  up  here. 

The  Marion  River,  from  this  point  to  Raquette  Lake,  is 
one  of  the  crookedest  rivers  in  the  whole  world,  and,  for  some 
distance,  taxes  to  its  utmost  the  abiHty  of  our  pilot  and  the 
circling  power  of  the  little  steamer.  It  flows  sluggishly  along 
its  reedy  shores,  wandering  back  and  forth  between  the  low 
hills,  in  a  succession  of  loops,  that  makes  the   way  traversed, 


iqS  The  Adirondacks. 

which  is  about  two  miles  in  a  straight  line,  double  that  dis- 
tance before  open  water  is  reached.  This  is  the  largest  feeder 
of  the  Raquette,  and  enters  it  through  a  gradually  widening 
estuary,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  islands  and  the  broad  lake. 
How  different  now  from  the  days  when  the  Professor  and  I 
passed  through  in  1873  !  Then  it  boasted  of  but  one  resi- 
dent, and  he  a  squatter.  (There  are  squatters  there  now,  but 
they  come  in  state  and  are  a  credit  to  the  section.)  Now  it 
is  teeming  with  Hfe.  A  fibre  from  the  throbbing  mass  of 
travel  has  pierced  these  depths  ;  the  shrill  whistle  of  the  com- 
ing steamer  calls  forth  a  joyous  crowd  for  their  daily  budget  of 
news  from  the  outer  world,  and  comfortable  hotels  have  sprung 
into  sudden  and  thrifty  existence  to  meet  the  requirements  of 
the  season. 

Raquette  Lake  Post  Office  is  on  Long  Point,  at  the 
left  as  we  emerge  from  Marion  River  and  pass  out  in  the 
gradual  broadening  lake.  Mail  addressed  to  Raquette  Lake 
is  delivered  here,  unless,  as  is  customary,  each  separate  hotel, 
camp  and  cottage  has  furnished  its  individual  mail-bag  which 
the  accommodating  steamboat  captain  gathers  and  delivers 
daily.  The  telegraph  office  is  also  in  this  building  with  the 
post  office. 

"The  Hemlocks,"  formerly  known  as  Raquette  Lake 
Hotel,  is  just  a  little  beyond  the  post  office.  This  house  has 
been  thoroughly  renovated  and  refurnished  this  year.  It  will 
provide  for  about  60  guests.  In  addition  to  the  main  build- 
ing, are  the  cottages  on  either  side,  the  one  formerly  occupied 
by  Madam  Gerster  at  the  east,  and  the  Cotterell  cottage  on 
the  west.  An  unsuspected  clearing  back  in  the  woods,  now 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  will  supply  fresh  vegetables 
during  the  season.  Open  July  i  to  October.  Price  of  board, 
$3  per  day,  $17.50  to  $25  per  week. 

"  The  Antlers  "  is  on  Constable  Point,  in  plain  sight,  al- 
most due  west  as  the  steamer  leaves  the  mouth  of  the  Marion 
River.  The  location  is  a  delightful  one,  and  commands  an 
extensive  view  of  the  lake  north  and  south,  as  well  as  into  this 


Raquette  Lake.  199 

deep  bay,  from  which  the  approach  is  made.  It  is  a  hotel  on 
the  colonization  plan — a  collection  of  camp-cottages,  which 
may  be  rented  at  room  rates,  and  a  larger,  central  build- 
ing, containing  the  general  office,  dining-room,  and  public 
rooms,  the  idea  being  a  collection  of  camps  in  which  guests 
shall  have  all  the  privacy  of  their  own  homes,  relieved  from 
the  annoying  but  quite  necessary  details  of  the  preparation  of 
their  daily  food.  This  plan  of  separate  buildings  of  one  or 
two  rooms  each  has  proved  a  success  here.  It  gives  the  tem- 
porary proprietor  of  each  a  sense  of  independence  and  own- 
ership that  is  very  pleasant,  resulting  in  each  structure  taking 
upon  itself  a  degree  of  individuality  and  character  according 
to  the  taste  and  disposition  of  its  occupants,  interesting  to  ob- 
serve. Provisions  are  also  made  to  entertain  transient  guests 
here  on  the  same  general  plan.  Accommodations  are  offered 
for  about  75.  Rates,  $3.00  per  day,  $17.50  to  $25  per  week. 
Special  rates  for  the  season.  Boats,  guides,  camp  supplies 
and  fishing  necessaries  can  be  had  here.  The  steamboat 
stops  here  about  an  hour  and  a  half  to  allow  time  for 
dinner. 

The  open  camp,  a  pleasant  feature  of  the  Adirondacks,  is 
shown  here  to  great  advantage.  The  logs  piled  high  and 
blazing  at  night,  flood  the  interior  with  pleasant  warmth, thaw- 
ing the  most  crusty  into  genial  friendHness ;  here  gather  the 
minister,  the  author,  the  playwright,  the  musician,  and  even 
the  haughty  broker,  to  melt  and  become  better  acquainted  in 
an  evening  than  by  a  four  weeks'  intercourse  in  a  hotel  parlor. 

The  Hemlocks  and  Antlers  are  both  under  the  management 
of  C.  H.  Bennett,  builder  and  proprietor  of  the  Antlers.  Mr. 
Bennett  is  genial,  attentive  and  obliging  and  has  made  many 
friends.  His  executive  ability  is  considerable  and  his  success 
as  a  hotel  keeper  beyond  question.  The  two  places,  con- 
trasting very  strongly  as  they  do,  offer  a  choice  of  extremes 
pleasant  to  contemplate,  the  Hemlocks  full  of  shadows  sug- 
gestive of  comfort  in  the  warmest  of  weather,  the  Antlers 
flooded  with  light  and  sunshine,  offering  healthful  warmth  to 
the  delicate  on  whom  the  winds  may  not  blow  too  rudely.     As 


200  The  Adirondacks. 

the  Antlers  has  become  noted  for  the  excellence  of  its 
table  we  may  expect  the  same  generous  completeness  in  all 
details  at  the  Hemlocks  as  well,  and  the  best  of  entertainment 
to  all  who  may  become  guests  of  either  place. 

Brightside-on-Raquette  is  on  the  south  side  of  Indian 
Point,  under  "  The  Crags."  The  main  building  is  finished 
in  native  woods  with  a  degree  of  elegance  that  bespeaks  the 
artistic  feeling  of  the  builder  who  is  also  the  proprietor,  and  is 
nicely  furnished  throughout.  It  stands  among  the  trees  afford- 
ing a  delightfully  retired  stopping  place  for  those  who  would 
withdraw  from  the  more  public  places  of  entertainment  on  the 
lake.  Altogether  the  accommodations  offered  are  sufficient  for 
forty  guests.  Rates  $2.00  to  $2. 50  per  day;  $12.00  to  $18.00 
per  week.  Although  new  to  the  hotel  business  the  complete- 
ness with  which  every  part  of  the  house  has  been  furnished 
together  with  the  well-known  character  for  thoroughness 
possessed  by  Mr.  Bryere,  indicates  that  whoever  finds  a  harbor 
here  will  have  no  cause  for  complaint  either  as  to  service, 
table  or  accomodations  generally.  Mr.  Bryere  is  noted  for 
artistic  skill  in  the  manufacture  of  rustic  furniture,  and  his 
services  in  this  particular  line  are  at  a  premium  in  the  woods. 

"  Hathorn's  Golden  Beach,"  at  the  eastern  extremity  of 
South  Bay,  two  miles  from  the  landing  at  the  postoffice,  con- 
sist of  a  log  house,  containing  dining-room,  kitchen,  etc.,  log 
cottages  of  rustic  finish,  and  several  detached,  bark-covered, 
box-like  sleeping-rooms,  set  up  among  the  pines,  along  the 
line  of  beach,  and  open  camps.  Capacity — grand  total — 30 
guests.  Board,  $2.00  per  day,  $9.00  to  $12.00  per  week. 
Open  June  ist  to  November.  Chancey  Hathorn,  proprietor. 
Parties  for  Hathorn's  leave  the  steamer  at  the  post-office  dock 
and  take  row-boat  to  this  point. 

Rush  Point  Camp,  near  South  Inlet,  kept  by  honest,  big- 
hearted  Jo.  Whitney,  accommodates  10.  Uncle  Jo's  flowers 
are  alone  worth  going  there  to  see. 

Blanchard's  Wigwams,  on  Green  Point,  west  of  Camp 
Stott,  C.  W.  Blanchard,  proprietor,  offer  entertainment  for  25 
guests. 


Raquette  Lake.  201 

Unique  and  pretty  features  of  this  lake  are  the  two  churches, 
one  of  the  Roman  Catholic  faith,  standing  among  the  trees 
near  the  Post  Office,  and  the  other  (Episcopalian)  on  a  small 
island  south  of  Osprey  Island,  where  services  are  conducted 
regularly  throughout  the  summer,  the  congregation  coming  by 
steamers  and  row-boats.  The  officiating  clergyman  of  the  last 
named  church  occupies  the  rectory  on  the  island  during  the 
season. 

The  rustic  camps  of  Raquette  Lake  are  elegant  affairs,  and 
although  built  of  rustic  material  found  ready  to  the  hand,  it  is 
apparent  that  twisted  cedar,  shaggy  spruce  and  silvery  birch, 
in  their  native  vestments,  were  not  chosen  because  they  cost 
nothing  there.  Some  of  these  camps  are  works  of  art,  and 
filled  with  dainty  bric-a-brac;  generally,  however,  pertaining 
to  woodsy  things,  and  in  keeping  with  their  native  environ- 
ment. The  pioneer  camp  of  this  section,  and  one  of  the 
most  artistic  in  the  woods,  is  "  Camp  Pine  Knot,"  on  South 
Bay.  It  was  commenced  in  the  winter  of  1876-7,  by  its  pres- 
ent owner,  W.  W.  Durant,  and  completed — well,  to  tell  the 
truth,  these  camps  are  never  completed  really,  for  one  of  the 
fascinating  features  of  the  camp  is  that  it  is  bound  by  no  rule 
of  time  or  architecture.  It  expands  and  blossoms  with  the 
passmg  seasons,  and  is  never  exactly  the  same  one  year  that  it 
was  the  year  before,  but  it  is  always  finished  enough  for  com- 
fort— it  is  "  otetiwi." 

Echo  Camp,  on  Long  Point,  west  of  the  Raquette  Lake 
House,  tasteful  and  artistic,  belongs  to  ex-Gov.  Lounsbery,  of 
Connecticut.  "  Camp  Otetiwi,"  (always  ready),  belonging  to 
Dr.  A.  G.  Gerster,  of  New  York,  is  on  the  large  island  west 
of  Camp  Pine  Knot.  "  Camp  Fair  View,"  on  Osprey  Island, 
belonging  to  C.  W.  Durant,  of  New  York,  is  an  excellent  speci- 
men of  ornate  rustic  architecture.  Deerhurst  Camp,  on  Ken- 
well's  Point,  belongs  to  Mr.  Wm.  Strange,  of  Paterson,  N.  J.  ; 
the  cottage  standing  on  the  north  side  of  this  point  is  that  of 
Senator  McCarthy  of  Syracuse.  Senator  Henderson  has  a 
pleasant  camp  on  the  south  side  of  Indian  Point.     "  Camp 


202  The  Adirondacks. 

Stott,"  the  summer  place  of  Com.  Frank  Stott,  of  Stottville, 
N.  Y.,  is  on  the  long  point  north  of  Kenwell's  Point.  A  camp 
belonging  to  James  Tenyck,  of  Albany,  and  "  Camp  Has- 
brouck,"  are  on  the  north  shore  near  the  outlet. 

Happy  the  favored  visitor  to  one  of  these  camps,  and  happy 
the  owner.  The  fact  cannot  be  disguised,  say  what  you  will, 
we  are  all  children  and  enjoy  playing  house ;  only,  at  sixty, 
we  need  a  ten-thousand-dollar  lodge  in  a  vast  wilderness,  when 
at  six,  a  piece  of  old  carpet,  stretched  over  a  corner  in  the  rail 
fence,  satisfied  all  our  earthly  desires. 

Sumner  Park  is  held  as  a  private  game  and  fish  preserve 
by  the  owner  of  Camp  Pine  Knot.  It  consists  of  township  6 
with  portions  of  township  5  to  include  the  whole  of  Summer 
Lake  and  Mohegan  Pond,  the  South  Inlet  and  the  southern 
shores  of  South  Bay.  It  is  all  under  police  patrol  and  the 
public  is  warned  against  trespassing  under  penalty  of  the  law. 
Raquette  Lake  owes  much  of  its  prosperity  to  Mr.  Durant, 
and  only  the  most  rabid  of  communists  can  question  the 
justice — as  it  is  unquestionably  his  right — of  reserving  this  part, 
forming  less  than  half  of  his  possessions  in  this  section,  for  his 
personal  use. 


The  Adirondack  League  Club  Preserve  lies  at  the 
southwest  of  Raquette  Lake,  partially  in  Herkimer  and  par- 
tially in  Hamilton  Counties,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying 
maps.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  private  sporting  preserves  in 
this  country,  the  forest  lands  owned  by  the  Club  in  fee  com- 
prising nearly  100,000  acres,  while  it  has  leased  the  exclusive 
hunting  and  fishing  privileges  of  about  80,000  acres  more,  ad- 
joining its  property  on  the  east  and  south.  The  Club's  tract  has 
an  average  elevation  of  2,200  feet,  and  over  twenty-five  lakes 
and  ponds,  including  what  was  once  known  as  "  Jock's,"  now 
Honnedaga  Lake,  the  West  Canada  Lakes  and  Creek  with 
numerous  other  noted  streams  and  ponds.  The  region  has 
long  been  celebrated  as  a  hunting  and  fishing  resort,  its  inac- 
cessibility having  hitherto   tended  to   protect  both  game  and 


A.  L.  C.  Preserve. 


203 


fish.  The  Club  members  have  now  arranged  for  the  building 
of  a  railroad  connecting  with  the  Central  at  Herkimer,  that 
will  bring  the  edge  of  the  tract  within  nine  hours  of  New  York 
City.  The  present  approach  is  by  wagon  road  from  Alder 
Creek  on  the   R.    W.    &  O.,  a  thirty  miles  drive. 


olo  for 


ADIRONDACK  LEAGUE  CLUB  PRESERVE. 


The  Club  was  organized  in  1890  by  a  number  of  gentlemen 
of  sporting  proclivities,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  game 
preserve  in  a  chosen  quarter  of  the  Adirondack  wilderness.  One 
of  their  leading  motives  was  the  desire  to  put  into  practice 
the  system  of  rational  forestry  prevaiHng  on  the  continent  of 
Europe,  which  reconciles  the  preservation  and  continual  re- 
production of  forest  areas  with  a  continual  and  increasing  in- 
come. The  experiment  was  undertaken  under  the  most  favor- 
able conditions,  the  Club  owning  over  93,000  acres,  covered 
with  a  magnificent  virgin  forest  of  birch,  spruce,  pine,  maple, 
cherry,  cedar,  hemlock  and  ash,  and  its  success  has  already 
more  than  demonstrated  the  wisdom  of  the  undertaking. 
Prof.  B.  E.  Fernow,  Chief  of  the  Forestry  Division  of  the  De- 
partment of  Agriculture  at  Washington,  is  one  of  the  Trustees, 


204  The  Adirondacks. 

and  the  forestry  adviser  of  the  Club,  and  its  Chief  Forester, 
Edward  Reusch,  Ph.D.,  a  graduate  of  the  German  schools  of 
Forestry,  is  in  the  active  management  of  its  forest  policy.  A 
contract  for  the  removal  of  the  spruce  above  1 2  inches  in 
diameter  at  a  stumpage  price,  which  already  guarantees  the 
Club  an  income  from  this  source  of  $35,000  a  year  for  the 
next  fifteen  years,  is  in  operation,  and  this  income,  it  is  be- 
lieved, could  be  increased  to  $60,000  a  year  without  detriment 
to  the  tract  as  a  hunting  or  fishing  preserve,  and  with  positive 
benefit  to  the  forest.  Prof.  Fernow  estimates  at  a  round  mil- 
lion dollars  the  value  of  the  merchantable  timber  which  could 
be  removed  to  the  forest's  immediate  advantage.  All  cutting 
is  done  under  the  supervision  of  the  Chief  Forester,  in  such  a 
way  as  to  bring  about  the  complete  renewal  of  the  lumbered 
portions  in  15  years,  so  that  the  process  might  go  on  forever. 

The  plan  of  the  Club  contemplates  a  possible  membership 
of  500.  The  price  of  the  membership  shares  was  originally 
placed  at  $1,000,  but  as  the  great  value  of  the  shares,  regarded 
simply  as  an  investment,  became  more  apparent,  the  Trustees 
raised  this  price  to  $1,250.  Each  share  is  unassessable  and 
entitles  the  holder  to  an  undivided  five-hundreth  interest  in 
the  property,  with  all  its  hunting  and  fishing  privileges,  to  all 
dividends  which  may  be  declared,  and  also  to  a  five  acre  site 
wherever  selected,  for  a  camp  or  cottage  site,  which  is  deeded 
to  each  member  in  fee.  Most  of  the  sites  so  far  selected  have 
been  on  Honnedaga  or  Moose  Lakes.  The  Club  House, 
formerly  the  "Forest  Lodge,"  kept  by  A.  D.  Barber,  Jr.,  is 
on  Honnedaga  Lake.  Mr.  Barber  is  a  member  and  the 
steward  of  the  Club,  and  furnishes  accommodations  for  Club 
members,  their  families  and  guests.  Guides,  boats  and  all  the 
accoutrements  for  hunting  and  fishing  are  here    obtainable. 

The  trustees  of  the  Club  are  Hon.  Warner  Miller  of  Her- 
kimer, Mills  W.  Barse  of  Olean,  O.  L.  Snyder  of  Buffalo, 
Judge  Warren  Higley,  Judge  Henry  E.  Howland,  Henry  C. 
Squires  and  Robert  C.  Alexander  of  New  York  City,  A.  G. 
Mills,  President  of  the  New  York  Athletic  Club,  Henry  Pat- 


Fulton  Chain  Lakes.  205 

ton  of  Albany,  Alexander  R.  Harper  of  Philadelphia,  Prof.  B. 
E.  Fernow  of  Washington,  D.  C,  and  S.  M.  Dodd  of  St. 
Louis.  A  handsome  club  book  containing  maps,  illustrations, 
and  other  interesting  matter,  has  just  been  published  by  the 
Club.  Applications  for  membership  should  be  addressed  to 
the  Secretary,  Ole  L.  Snyder,  40"  Wall  Street,  New  York. 
The  Club  house  address  is  Wilmurt,  Herkimer  County. 

tK  V  't*  tI?  7|t  TfC  'fr 

The  Fulton  Chain  of  Lakes  may  be  reached  through 
the  Brown  Tract  Inlet,  which  enters  Raquette  Lake  from 
the  southwest,  but  is  usually  approached  from  the  west  via 
the  Rome  and  Watertown  Railroad,  leaving  at  either  Boon- 
ville  or  Port  Leyden. 

Moose  River  is  1 1  miles  from  Port  Leyden  and  1 2  miles 
from  Boonville.     Daily  stage  from  either  place,  $1. 

Moose  River  House  is  the  regular  dining  place  for 
travelers  entering  this^  gateway.  It  is  on  the  western  border 
of  the  great  wilderness  and  affords  good  fishing  and  hunting 
for  those  who  do  not  care  to  penetrate  deeper.  The  house 
will  accommodate  about  30  guests.  Rates,  $2  per  day,  $7 
to  $10  per  week.     C.  M.  Barrett,  proprietor. 

The  Fulton  Chain  Railw^ay  is  interesting  as  beginning 
and  ending  in  the  woods,  and  having  no  connection  by  rail 
with  the  outside  world.  It  is  a  marvel  in  railroads  and  rolling 
stock,  worth  traveling  a  long  distance  to  see,  and  somehow  it 
seems  more  a  part  of  the  great  wilderness  than  the  conven- 
tional iron  monster  and  steel  tracks  that  one  is  accustomed  to 
in  the  outer  world.  The  track  is  of  wood,  3  feet  guage,  the 
locomotive  a  nondescript,  but  it  gets  there  with  the  traveler, 
and  none  are  found  to  wish  it  otherwise.  The  road  was  built 
especially  to  meet  a  long-felt  need — a  boon  from  Boonville — 
that  a  thumped  and  jolted  public  is  not  slow  to  appreciate, 
and  for  which  thanks  are  due  to  G.  W.  P.  Gould  and  Dr.  A. 
H.  Crosby  of  that  section.  It  is  8  miles  in  length,  extending 
from  Moose  River  to  "  Minnehaha,"  foot  of  the  Stillwater, 
from  which  point  a  steamboat  runs  to  the  Old  Forge.  Fare 
by  rail  and  boat,  $2.00. 


2o6  The  Adirondacks. 

The  Bronvn  Tract,  comprehending  the  land  around  the 
head  of  Moose  River,  was  so  called  after  a  John  Brown  of 
Providence,  Rhode  Island  (who  must  not  be  confounded  with 
that  other  John  Brown,  the  "  Old  Man  of  Ossawatamie,"  who 
lies  buried  at  North  Elba).  The  property  was  bought  in  1793 
and  a  large  forge  built  below  the  first  of  the  Fulton  Chain  of 
Lakes.  The  manufacture  of  iron  was  attempted,  and  30  to  40 
families  gathered  here  at  the  time,  but  the  venture  proved  a 
failure,  and  little  besides  the  more  substantial  portions  of  the 
old  forge  remains  now  to  mark  the  spot. 

The  Forge  House  is  at  the  old  forge  dam,  below  First 
Lake,  and  affords  accommodation  to  40  or  50  guests.  Alger 
&  Keets,  proprietors. 

The  Fulton  Chain  of  Lakes  are  eight  in  number.  The 
old  forge  dam,  two  miles  below  First  Lake,  floods  back  into 
the  Fifth,  giving  uninterrupted  navigation  from  the  Forge 
House  to  this  point.  The  First,  Second  and  Third  Lakes  are 
closely  connected  and  collectively  three  miles  in  length.  The 
Fourth  is  nearly  six  miles  long,  and  contains  a  number  of 
pretty  islands.  A  half  mile  stream  connects  Fourth  with  Fifth 
Lake,  and  a  half  mile  carry  leads  into  the  Sixth ;  a  mile  of 
rough  boating  or  portage  along  the  stream  leads  from  Sixth 
into  Seventh  Lake,  which  is  about  two  miles  long ;  thence  by 
stream  one  mile,  and  portage  along  the  stream  another  mile 
into  Eighth  Lake.  This  one  is  also  about  two  miles  in  length. 
At  its  head  a  trail  ij  miles  long  may  be  followed  toward  the 
northeast,  leading  into  Brown  Tract  Inlet,  which,  followed 
downward  four  miles,  brings  the  voyager  to  Raquette  Lake. 
Total  from  the  Forge  House  about  26  miles. 

There  are  several  public  and  private  camps  along  the  shores 
of  the  lakes,  the  greater  number  being  on  Fourth  Lake,  Some 
of  these  camps  may  be  rented  "  furnished  "  with  the  services 
of  the  proprietor  and  necessary  help. 

Fourth  Lake  House  at  the  foot  of  Fourth  Lake,  has  ac- 
commodations for  60  people  j  rates  $io.oo  to  $18.00  per 
week.     C.  S.  HoUiday,  manager  and  proprietor. 


i 


Beaver  Lake  Country.  207-A 

Cedar  Island  Camp  near  the  head  of  the  lake  is  kept  by 
W.  C.  Augur.  Rates  $2.50  per  day;  $10.00  to  $15.00  per 
week.  This  whole  section  is  in  its  transition  state  and  develop- 
ing rapidly. 

Steamer  "  Fulton  "  Captain  E.  L.  Sheppard,  runs  two  trips 
daily,  leaving  the  head  of  Fourth  Lake  morning  and  after- 
noon.    Fare  $1. 

Camp  Craig  is  on  the  east  side  of  Big  Moose  Lake,  about 
6  miles  in  an  air  Hne  north  of  Fourth  Lake  of  the  Fulton 
Chain.  It  may  be  reached  through  Bub's,  Moss,  and  Second 
Lakes  of  the  North  Branch  Chain.  It  is  a  furnished  camp 
where  guides  are  expected  to  do  the  work  for  their  individual 
parties.  Supplies  furnished  by  the  proprietor.  Rates  $1.50 
per  day.  H.  H.  Covey,  proprietor.  A  trail  leads  west  into 
Twitchel  Lake  thence  north  to  Beaver  River. 

Beaver  Lake  Country  is  entered  generally  from  the  west 
via  Lowville.  Special  conveyance  carrying  parties  of  four  or 
five  to  Fenton's  cost  $6.  It  will  be  well  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  transportation  in  advance.  Address,  Charles  Fen- 
ton,  Number  Four,  in  advance. 

The  Fenton  House  stands  on  an  elevation,  overlooking 
Beaver  Lake,  133  feet  above  the  water.  In  addition  to  the 
main  building  are  cottages  suitable  for  famiUes,  with  an  aggre- 
gate capacity  for  150  guests.  The  proprietor  promises  'Ho 
show  from  one  to  five  deer  around  the  lake,  within  sight  of  the 
hotel,  toward  the  close  of  any  day  in  the  early  summer."  The 
powerful  "  Beaver  River  Club,"  whose  tramping  ground  this 
is,  is  opposed  to  "  hounding."  As  a  result,  deer  that  have 
been  driven  from  other  sections  by  the  dogs  seek  this  quieter 
place  ;  and  the  true  sportsman  never  lacks  for  game  worthy  of 
his  skill.  Superior  trout-fishing  is  also  to  be  had  in  Beaver 
River  ;  and,  in  short,  "  Number  Four,"  which  is  the  post  office 
address,  offers  a  combination  of  excellent  sport  with  reasona- 
ble ease  of  access.  This  house  is  open  all  the  year.  Rates, 
$2  per  day,  $9  to  $10  per  week.     Charles  Fenton,  proprietor. 


The  Adirondacks.  207-B 

Beaver  Lake  is  about  ij  miles  in  length.  A  smaller  body 
of  water,  closely  connected  on  the  south,  is  called  Beaver 
Pond.  Crooked  Lake  may  be  reached  by  boat,  ij  miles,  and 
carry  to  the  north  if  miles.  Francis  Lake  is  about  one  mile 
south,  and  is  something  over  one  mile  in  length.  Beaver 
River  is  quite  rough  above  Fenton's  for  9  miles,  above  which 
is  found  good  boating  for  twenty-five  miles ;  then  alternate 
boating  and  carries  for  six  miles  brings  us  to  Albany  Lake. 
Albany  Lake  is  four  miles  in  length.  Its  main  inlet,  entering 
from  the  north,  is  two  miles  long,  navigable  most  of  the  way, 
and  brings  the  water  of  Smith's  Lake.  The  latter  is  nearly 
three  miles  in  its  longest  diameter.  The  house  kept  here  for- 
merly by  James  La  Mont  will  be  closed  this  season. 

The  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  Railway,  Dr.  W. 
Seward  Webb,  president,  now  under  construction,  is  expected 
to  be  in  service  in  1892.  The  line  leaves  the  N.  Y.  C.  at 
Herkimer  and  extends  through  the  western  part  of  the  Adi- 
rondacks in  a  north-easterly  course  to  Malone.  A  section  of 
the  main  line  from  Tupper  Lake  northward,  will  be  in  opera- 
tion about  the  first  of  August.  Vestibule  trains  will  run  solid 
from  New  York  via  the  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.,  the  R.  W.  &  O., 
and  the  N.  A.  Railroads  to  Paul  Smith's  and  the  Saranac 
Lakes.  Time  about  13  hours.  The  plan  contemplates  branches 
from  a  point  a  little  north  of  Fulton  Chain  Lakes,  eastward  to 
Raquette  and  Blue  Mountain  Lakes,  and  from  Saranac  Lake 
to  Lake  Placid. 

Ne-Ha-Sa-Ne  Park  is  the  latest  large  acquisition  of 
Adirondack  land  by  private  parties  to  be  set  aside  for  a  pre- 
serve. Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb,  the  railroad  magnate  is  at  the 
head  of  the  Association  and  authorizes  the  statement  that 
hotels  will  be  closed  this  year,  that  no  camp  will  be  allowed  to 
be  built  on  the  property,  and  that  the  forest,  fish  and  game 
will  be  preserved.  The  Park  covers  an  area  of  about  160 
square  miles,  in  the  northwest  portion  of  Herkimer  and  the 
northeast  corner  of  Hamilton  Counties,  including  in  its  terri- 


Cranberry  Lake.  207-c 

tory  the  Red  Horse  Chain,  Albany,  Smith's  and  other  lakes 
of  that  section.  Ne-Ha-Sa-Ne  is  Indian  for  *'  Crossing  on  a 
log." 

'K  ^  ^  Tf  ^  ¥:  ^/:  ^ 

The  Carthage  and  Adirondack  Railway  extends  from 
Carthage  to  Benson  Mines,  a  distance  of  43  miles.  Lake 
Bonaparte,  17  miles  from  Carthage,  is  of  some  note  as  a  sum- 
mer fishing  resort,  with  a  comfortable  hotel,  and  was  first 
brought  into  notice  as  the  retiring  place  of  Joseph  Bonaparte, 
the  nephew  of  his  uncle.  Oswegatchie  Station  is  39  miles 
from  Carthage.  From  this  point  it  is  six  miles  to  Fine,  where 
boats  may  be  taken  by  prearrangement  with  guide,  for  Cran- 
berry Lake  via  the  Oswegatchie  River.  Star  Lake  is  2|- 
miles  south  of  Oswegatchie  station,  where  two  good  hotels  sup- 
ply necessary  entertainment.  Benson  Mines  is  the  terminus 
of  the  road.  From  this  point  a  trail  leads  south  to  the  head 
of  the  overflow  of  Cranberry  Lake  and  another  to  the  outlet. 

Cranberry  Lake  was  originally  about  six  miles  in  length, 
but  a  dam  built  at  its  outlet  increased  its  area  considerably 
and  changed  its  shape.     Its  altitude  is  1,540  feet. 

Cranberry  Lake  House  stands  near  the  outlet,  and  can 
provide  entertainment  for  50  guests.  Rates,  $ i  o. 50  per  week ; 
$2  per  day.  Mrs.  E.  J.  Bishop,  proprietor.  P.  O.,  Russell. 
Camp  supplies  and  boats  can  be  had  here  and  guides 
secured  by  notice  given  in  advance  of  arrival.  Fine  fishing  is 
found  on  the  river  below  the  lake,  and  on  the  various  brooks 
and  ponds  emptying  into  it.  As  good  hunting,  probably,  as 
the  Adirondacks  afford,  can  be  found  at  the  south,  at  points 
easily  reached.  The  "  all  land  "  route  to  Cranberry  Lake  is 
from  De  Kalb  Junction,  but  the  stage  service  is  uncertain, 
and  it  would  be  well  before  going  to  address  Mrs.  Bishop  for 
particulars. 

******* 

I  wish  you  a  pleasant  journey  and  a  safe  return. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Outfits,  Supplies,  Guides,  etc. 

'OR  Camp  Outfit  and  genera,  woods  iile 
the  following  is  recommended :  A  complete 
change  of  underclothing;  two  pairs  of  ser- 
viceable socks,  but  slightly  heavier  than  youi 
habitually  wear  at  the  season  (soft  wool  is 
preferable) ;  pair  blue  flannel  shirts  with  widei 
collars,  confined  at  the  throat  by  a  substan- 
tial silk  handkerchief.  If  the  unaccustomed 
material  chafes  the  neck,  the  shirts  may  bel 
put  on  outside  the  garment  ordinarily  worn, 
in  which  case  linen  collars  must  not  be  forgotten.  The: 
pants  and  vest  should  be  of  some  strong  woolen  goods,, 
the  coat  the  same,  cut  rather  short  and  to  button  close: 
up  to  the  neck.  Have  pockets  ample  and  numerous, 
with  covers;  you  will  find  use  for  them.  Wear  a  soft 
felt  hat  with  a  reasonably  wide  brim.  By  grasping  it  in 
a  manner  easily  learned  the  rim  forms  a  convenient  drink- 
ing cup.  Do  not  commit  the  too  common  error  of  pro- 
curing new  shoes  or  boots  for  the  occasion.  A  pair  of 
laced  shoes,  roomy,  but  not  too  loose,  well  broken  to  the 
foot,  with  broad  soles  and  rather  low  heels,  is  best.  The 
uppers  should  be  of  rather  light  grained  kip  or  water- 
proof leather.  Have  leather  or  canvas  leggings,  strapped 
under  the  instep  and  buttoning,  or  to  lace  at  the  side  well 
up  toward  the  knee.  Boots  may  be  used  in  place  of  shoes 
and  leggings,  if  preferred,  but  the  evidence  is  largely  in  favor 
of  the  shoe.  It  is  well  to  have  a  duplicate  pair  for  alter- 
nate* in  wet  weather.     Rubber  boots,  although  coxivenient 


Outfit.  209 

at  times,  are  not  suitable  for  general  wear  or  for  traveling. 

A  ligl^t  overcoat  will  be  found  very  comfortable  at  times. 

Among  the  necessaries  should  be  included  rubber  coat  and 

overalls  for  use  in  rainy  weather,  for  the  best  fishing  is  often 

found  under  dripping   clouds.     Have   also  a  light    rubber 

blanket  to  throw  over  the  knees  and  feet  when  in  boat,  or 

to  protect  you,  in  sleeping,  from  moisture  below  or  above. 

For  sleeping  or  lounging  in  camp  take  a  pair  of  common 

canvas  slippers  and  sew  on   them  cloth  tops  to  come  up 

k   around  the  ankle,  and  tie  outside  the  pants.     A  light  cloth 

le   cap  will  be  found  comfortable  for  night  use. 

I-       Ladies'  Outfit  contemplates  a  subject  in  which  I  would 

u    not  presume  to  dictate ;   I  have  learned  better.     I  humbly 

is   submit,  however,  that  it  is  your  first  duty  to  make  yourself 

e   as  attractive  as  possible,  subject  only  to  the  requirements  of 

1-   place  and  season ;  and  I  would  suggest  that,  whatever  may 

d    be  allowable  in  the  way  of  "  fine  "  dressing,  it  is  not  consid- 

e    ered  necessary,  or  even  in  good  taste.     Often  the  sweetest 

ii    girls  that  ever  brightened  the  wilderness  with  their  presence 

{    reign  queens  of  the  evening  in  the  same  bewitching  costume 

ii    in  which  they  boated  and  climbed  mountains  in  the  early 

e    morning.     Consult  some  lady  friend  who  has  spent  a  season 

in  the  woods  as  to  what  constitutes  a  suitable  outfit.     In 

t    absence  of  such  source  of  information  the  following  is  sug- 

]    gested  for  boat,  camp  and  tramp  :     Underclothing,  such  as 

,    experience  has  shown  best  suited  to  the  season  and  your 

,    individual  comfort,  giving  fine  flannel  the  preference  in  all 

but  the  very  warmest  of  weather.     Underskirts  should  gen- 

.    erally  be  of  dark  flannel,  although,  if  much  walking  is  done, 

.    one  of  dark  cotton  will  be  found  an  agreeable  substitute. 

A  becoming  dress  may  be  made  of  blue  or  gray  flannel  or 

I    ladies'  cloth.     It  may  be  pleated  back  and  front,  gathered 

at  the  waist,  or  fitting  loosely  to  the  form,  but  should  in  any 

case  allow  perfect  freedom  in  the  use  of  the  arms.     The 

skirt  should  be  not  overfull,  and  cut  a  finger  shorter  than  the 

ordinary  walking  dress;  trim  but  little,  in  shades  of  same 


2IO  The  Adirondacks. 

color  as  body ;  a  cord  at  wrist,  collar  and  waist-band,  with 
a  knot  of  ribbon  or  a  wild  flower  at  the  throat,  is  sufficient. 
A  dainty  bit  of  ruffling  or  old  lace  about  the  neck  transforms 
the  morning  into  an  evening  toilet.  Wear  a  soft  felt  hat 
with  wide  brim  ;  trim  with  forest  leaves.  Wear  a  lady's  hat, 
if  they  differ  from  men's  —  don't  ape  masculinity  in  dress ; 
the  average  Adirondack  sportsman  does  not  admire  it, 
although,  if  confronted  by  the  horrid  fact,  he  is  too  much 
of  a  gentleman  to  tell  the  truth.  Wear  dark,  serviceable 
hose  and  substantial,  roomy  Balmoral  boots,  with  broad 
soles  and  low,  broad  heels.  Wear  Lisle  thread,  cotton  or 
doeskin  gloves.  They  may  be  made  with  long  wristlets  to 
button  or  tie  outside  the  dress  sleeve,  to  guard  against  pos- 
sible attack  of  black  fly  or  mosquito.  A  chatelaine  belt  and 
pocket,  with  tin  drinking  cup,  etc.,  is  convenient.  A  light 
sun  umbrella  of  the  walking-stick  pattern  is  a  comfort  in 
rain  or  shine.  A  shawl  will  often  be  found  acceptable  of 
an  evening  following  the  warmest  of  days.  Carry  a  rubber 
or  waterproof  circular  with  hood,  a  pair  of  light  rubbers  fc  r 
the  feet,  and  a  piece  of  light  rubber  cloth  to  throw  over  the 
lap  and  feet  if  surprised  in  a  boat  by  one  of  those  fast-mov- 
ing Adirondack  showers.  In  rough  weather  sit  or  lie  low 
in  the  boat ;  never,  at  such  times,  grasp  the  sides  to  support 
yourself.  A  skillful  boatman  will  manage  in  safety  one  of 
those  light  Adirondack  shells  in  the  roughest  of  water,  if  j| 
allowed  entire  control  of  boat  and  load.  Go  fearlessly  into  ^ 
the  woods.  It  is  stated  on  the  highest  authority  that  not  a., 
noxious  plant  or  venomous  serpent  exists  in  the  Adirondacks.  || 

Camp  and  Outfit. — A  bark  or  bough  camp  will  do  in 
absence  of  anything  better,  but  is  nothing  like  as  comfort- 
able or  convenient  as  a  tent.  An  "A"  tent,  seven  by  eight 
feet  on  the  ground,  affords  comfortable  sleeping  room  for 
four,  and  on  occasion  five  or  even  six.  A  rope,  passing  ; 
through  lengthwise  at  the  top  and  out  at  the  ends,  takes  the 
place  of  ridge  pole,  and  may  be  fastened  to  convenient  trees 
or  over  crotched  sticks,  cut  the  proper  height  and  tied  to 


The  Camp.  2ii 

stakes.  The  material  should  be  of  cotton,  water  and  mil- 
dew-proof, and  complete,  need  not  weigh  more  than  nine  to 
twelve  pounds.  In  making  your  bed  of  boughs,  remember 
that  solid  wood,  if  fitted  to  the  form,  is  as  comfortable  as  a 
bed  of  down.  Apply  the  fact  by  burrowing  or  hollowing 
out  cavities  to  fit  the  projecting  points  of  hip  and  shoulder. 
Cover  the  boughs  with  a  rubber  blanket,  in  addition  to 
which  each  member  of  the  party  should  have  a  pair  of  heavy 
woolen  blankets.  A  small  bag,  to  be  fidled  with  leaves  or 
moss  and  used  as  a  pillow,  is  an  improvement  on  a  pair  of 
boots,  but  not  all  that  nature  desires;  and  at  the  risk  of 
exciting  ridicule  —  from  idiots — I  am  free  to  recommend 
a  small,  well-filled  feather  pillow.  It  pays  for  itself  in  a 
single  night's  use.  A  few  yards  of  mosquito  netting  drawn 
across  the  front  of  the  tent  after  a  good  smudge  is  a  luxury 
which  declares  a  big  diurnal  dividend.  For  long,  forced 
marches,  a  hammock  made  of  cotton  duck  with  a  cover 
of  the  same,  but  somewhat  shorter,  buttoned  over  at  each 
side,  and  forming  a  sort  of  pocket,  is,  with  the  addition  of 
rubber  blanket,  bed  and  tent  combined.  A  little  ingenuity 
will  suggest  manner  of  arranging  hoops  over  the  face  to 
cover  with  canvas  or  mosquito  netting,  as  circumstances 
may  require. 

The  Camp. — In  selecting  a  camping  place  during  warm 
weather,  choose  an  island  or  an  exposed  point  free  from 
underbrush  where  the  wind  will,  to  a  great  extent,  free  you 
from  the  mosquito  and  fly.  In  cool  weather,  it  is  needless 
to  say,  choose  the  thicket ;  in  either  case,  remember  that  a 
cold  spring  or.  brook  and  material  for  the  camp-fire  adds 
very  much  to  your  convenience.  In  pitching  the  tent,  if 
on  a  side  hill,  dig  a  "A"  shaped  trench  to  lead  running 
water  on  either  side  the  tent;  if  on  the  level,  ditch  all  around. 
A  wall  tent  is  better  than  the  one  already  described,  or  if  a 
long  stay  is  anticpated,  it  pays  to  build  log  sides  on  which 
to  mount  the  tent,  and  cover  with  a  "  fly  "  to  insure  certain 
protection  from  rain.     A  sheet-iron  camp-stove  caji  be  pro* 


212  The  Adirondacks. 

cured  of  the  dealers,  or  may  be  easily  made  to  answer 
every  purpose,  if  your  stay  in  one  place  be  long  enough  to 
warrant  the  trouble  of  transportation. 

A  champagne  basket,  covered  with  waterproof  cloth  and 
provided  with  shoulder  loops  for  carrying,  makes  an  admira- 
ble pack  basket.  A  rubber,  or  waterproof  bag,  or  an  ordinary 
two-bushel  grain  bag,  with  carrying  loops  of  webbing,  may  be 
used  for  extra  clothing,  blankets,  etc.  Let  your  load  rest 
well  down  on  the  back  to  carry. 

The  Camp  Kit  may  consist  of  a  long-handled  frying  pan, 
a  deep  stew  pan  with  cover,  a  nest  of  three  or  four  covered 
tin  pails,  for  water,  tea,  coffee,  etc. ;  pint  tin  cups,  tin  plates, 
a  wire  toaster  of  the  gridiron  pattern,  a  ladle  or  large  iron 
spoon,  table  and  teaspoons,  knives  and  forks,  and  last  but  not 
least,  soap,  dish  cloths  and  towels. 

Carry  a  pocket  compass  with  you  at  all  times — the  best 
woodsmen  are  temporarily  at  fault.  An  ordinary  lantern  for 
camp  use  (for  hunting  Boudren's  jack  lamp  is  probably  the 
best),  candles,  matches  (a  few  wind  and  water-proof),  towels, 
tooth  brush,  comb,  pocket  mirror,  pins,  needles  and  thread,  a 
few  extra  buttons  to  match  those  worn,  oil  or  tallow  for  your 
boots,  stamped  envelopes  or  postal  cards  (?),  light  hunting 
knife  in  sheath  (?),  light  axe  in  sheath,  and  a  supply  of  light 
reading  of  the  convenient  Franklin  Square  or  Lakeside  pat- 
tern. Take  no  large  boxes  with  sharp  corners,  nor  any  article 
too  heavy  or  unwieldy  for  one  man  to  handle.  Don't  expect 
your  guide  to  double  carries  habitually,  rather  reduce  your 
baggage  or  get  extra  packmen  for  its  transportation. 

Camp  Supplies  may  be  had  from  hotels  generally,  but 
many  prefer  to  carry  their  own.  Veterans  need  no  advice ; 
but  to  the  novice  the  following  suggestions  are  made : 
First,  consult  your  cook  book,  see  what  is  needed  in  the 
preparation  of  proposed  dishes  and  provide  accordingly. 
The  following  list  contains  the  staple  articles :  Wheat,  Gra- 
ham   flour,    corn,    and   oatmeal,    beans,  Boston,    and    soda 


Supplies.  213 

crackers,  lemon  biscuit,  baking  powder,  self-raising  flour, 
maple  sugar,  loaf  sugar,  tea,  coffee,  condensed  milk,  bottled 
horse-radish,  mustard,  vinegar  (?),  pepper  and  salt  in  boxes 
with  perforated  covers,  dried  fruit,  canned  fruit  (?)  and  but- 
ter, packed  in  salt  and  inclosed  in  hermetically  sealed  cans, 
which  can  be  anchored  in  spring  holes  or  under  cold  run- 
ning water.  Bacon  is  extremely  nice  when  sweet,  as  is  also 
"oork,  unpoetical  but  palatable,  and  on  occasion  taking 
place  of  butter  and  all  the  seasonings.  Dried  beef  is  an 
important  item;  "jerked  venison,"  one  of  the  best  things 
imaginable  to  carry  when  setting  out  for  a  tramp  ;  ask  your 
guide  to  show  you  how  it  is  prepared.  For  relishes  — 
shades  of  mighty  trout  and  speckled  beauties  forgive  us  — 
take  a  box  of  smoked  red  herring.  Bermuda  onions  fill  an 
aching  void  which  nothing  else  can  equal.  Canned  beef, 
pork  and  beans,  corn,  tomatoes,  condensed  soup,  etc.,  may 
be  added.  Fresh  vegetables  and  potatoes  can  be  had  from 
the  hotels.  Carry  no  liquor ;  if  wet  and  cold,  Jamaica 
ginger  has  all  the  heating  properties  of  whisky;  while 
strong,  black  coffee  is  a  better  stimulant,  with  none  of  the 
evil  effects  following. 

The  Medicine  Chest  need  not  be  extensive.  It  should, 
however,  contain  cathartic  pills  —  a  piece  of  Turkish  rhu- 
barb is  good ;  cholera  medicine  of  some  kind ;  a  small 
bottle  of  collodion  (composed  of  equal  parts  of  alcohol  and 
ether,  with  gun-cotton  added  to  make  it  about  the  consist- 
ency of  heavy  varnish) ;  applied  to  burns  and  small  wounds, 
it  forms  an  artificial  skin,  impervious  alike  to  air  and  water ; 
ammonia,  to  allay  irritation  arising  from  bites  of  insects ; 
cold  cream  or  glycerine,  for  chapped  face  or  hands ;  court- 
plaster,  seidlitz  powders,  ointment  and  adhesive  plasters, 
lint  and  bandages,  to  use  in  case  of  emergency.  To  stop 
the  flow  of  blood  from  wounds,  bind  on  equal  parts  of  flour 
and  common  salt ;  for  burns,  apply  wheat  flour  or  collodion. 

Insect  Preparation  may  be  procured  of  the  druggist, 
9r  compounded   by  yourself.     The  most  convenient  and 


214  The  Adirondacks. 

effective,  perhaps,  as  any,  is  composed  of  six  parts  of  mutton 
tallow  to  one  of  oil  of  pennyroyal,  with  a  little  camphor  added. 
In  the  proportion  of  two  ounces  of  sweet  oil  and  one  of  oil 
of  tar  is  good.  "  A  coating  of  the  grease  from  ham  rinds,  well 
rubbed  on,  is  the  best  yet  known,"  says  George  K.  Holmes,  of 
Great  Barrington,  Mass.  Annoint  exposed  portions  of  the 
person  with  either  of  the  above,  then  stand  back  and  mark 
the  frenzy  of  the  baffled  punkey. 

Sporting  Outfit. — Do  not  rely  on  what  books  tell  you. 
If  you  know  nothing  about  the  subject  place  yourself  under 
some  one  that  does,  and  trust  them  until  you  can  judge  for 
yourself.  The  most  enticing  of  fancy  flies  in  the  hands  of  a 
greenhorn  will  not  yield  much  sport — except  to  outsiders — and 
the  grandest  achievement  in  modern  firearms  requires  some 
skill  in  using.  If  you  have  the  requisite  skill,  carry  a  rifle  ;  if 
not,  a  fowling-piece  is  better.  For  general  use  there  is  per- 
haps no  more  convenient  or  serviceable  arm  to  carry  into 
camp  than  the  "pocket"  rifle,  manufactured  by  the  J.  Ste- 
vens Arms  and  Tool  Company  of  Chicopee  Falls,  Mass.  A 
12  to  1 5-inch  barrel,  32-calibre,  is  recommended.  The  weight 
is  less  than  three  pounds.  A  shot-gun  barrel  is  also  made  to 
fit  the  same  frame,  so  that  either  may  be  used  at  will.  Are 
you  artistic  ?  Carry  a  camera  of  the  Kodak  pattern  or  with 
small  plate.  A  plate  large  enough  to  make  a  lantern  slide 
yields  a  larger  per-centage  of  comfort  than  any  other  size 
made. 

Guides  receive  $2.50  to  $3  per  day,  furnishing  boat  and 
necessary  cooking  and  table  utensils.  They  cook  and  do 
other  necessary  camp  work,  and  row  and  "  back  "  the  boat 
over  the  carries,  where  there  are  no  other  means  provided;  (in 
cases  where  horses  are  used  the  employer  is  expected  to  pay 
for  transportation.)  One  guide  and  boat  is  ordinarily  suffi- 
cient for  two  persons,  but  for  independence  in  fishing  and 
hunting  each  sportsman  should  have  his  individual  guide. 
There  are  two  classes,  known  respectively  as  ''  ho- 
tel" and  "independent."  The  former  are  engaged  for 
the    season    by   hotel   proprietors,  who   relet    them    to   par- 


« 


Guides.  215 

ties ;  the  latter  must  be  dealt  with  personally.  There  are 
eciually  good  men  in  both  classes,  as  the  nature  of  the  sur- 
roundings usually  determines  to  which  they  shall  belong ; 
therefore  it  is  impossible  to  give  rules  for  the  selection  of  a 
guide,  or  to  discriminate  between  them,  as  only  experience 
can  determine  their  suitability  for  your  peculiar  wants.  As 
a  class  they  are  a  noble  set  of  men,  who,  aside  from  the 
natural  deference  due  the  employer  from  the  employed,  ad- 
mit of  no  inequality,  and  reflect  back  their  usage ;  although 
there  are  exceptions  to  the  rule  in  man  as  in  master.  If 
only  reasonable  service  is  asked,  there  can  usually  be  no 
complaint;  if  fawning  servility  is  expected,  there  is  a  rea- 
sonable doubt  as  to  the  result,  for  one  who  knows  enough 
for  the  profession  knows  when  he  is  well  used.  The  best 
guides  are  often  engaged  for  a  year  in  advance,  and  some 
VTOuldas  soon  think  of  going  without  a  gun  as  without  their 
favorite  guide.  Some  parties  have  attempted  to  do  the 
Adirondacks  by  aid  of  map,  compass  and  book,  and  with- 
out the  aid  of  a  regular  guide ;  this,  however,  is  full  of  hard- 
sliips  that  are  easily  avoided  by  those  accustomed  to  the 
country,  and,  if  comfort,  distance  and  time  lost  in  out-of- 
the-way  places  are  taken  into  consideration,  attended  with 

I  but  little  economy. 

I  Lists  of  guides  heretofore  published  are  now  omitted,  as 
the  title  is  no  longer  an  indication  of  fitness  for  the  position. 
The  office  is  one  of  responsibility  and  it  is  due  to  those  who 
ire  competent  and  honest  that  a  distinction  should  be  made 
between  them  and  others  who  claim  the  title  without  possess- 
ing the  necessary  qualifications.  The  safety  and  comfort 
Df  the  traveler  depends  largely  on  his  guide,  and  some  guar- 
mtee  should  be  furnished  by  the  one  employed.  A  guides* 
anion  could  provide  for  this,  or  certificates  might  be  granted 
3y  competent  authority,  but  until  some  such  provision  can 
3e  made  both  the  public  and  the  profession  must  suffer. 


I 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Trout  Fishing, 

N  the  year  1880,  it  seems  hardly  necessary,  in 
speaking  of  trout  and  trout  fishing,  to  say  that 
speckled  or  brook  trout  —  the  salmo  fonti- 
nalis  of  our  early  years,  now,  by  authority 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institute,  savelinus  fonti- 
nalis  —  has  a  square  tail,  and  that  his  sides  are 
speckled  with  yellow  and  red  spots,  and  that 
he  is  a  cousin  of  the  lake  or  salmon  trout, 
which  has  a  forked  tail  with  mottled  sides,  and 
which  the  Smithsonian  Institute  insists  shall  be  called  cristiro- 
mer  namaycush ;  for  the  love  of  angling  has  so  grown  during 
the  last  few  years  that  it  is  not  now  considered  a  proper 
definition  of  fishing  to  say,  it  consists  of  "  a  stick  with  a  string 
at  one  end  and  a  fool  at  the  other."  On  the  contrary,  those 
whose  love  of  this  sport  will  draw  them  to  the  brook  side, 
or  to  the  lake  or  pond,  are  men  of  all  profession  and  occu- 
pation, and  any  one  of  them  will  tell  you,  if  you  ask  him, 
that  it  requires  skill  and  a  knowledge  of  the  habits  of  the 
trout  to  fill  your  creel.  I  doubt  if  the  book  was  ever  writ- 
ten that  will  make  one  a  finished  angler.  To  be  sure  one 
may  gain  something  sometime  from  the  written  experience 
of  others,  but  experience  gained  by  time  and  patience  on 
the  stream  is  far  better  than  any  teacher.  There  are  some 
general  hints  that  will  apply  to  the  Adirondacks,  but  if  it 
were  attempted  to  enumerate  all  conditions  for  all  times, 
half  the  anglers  would  say  I  found  it  so;  the  other  half 
would  say,  /did  not. 

When  the  ice  has  gone  from  the  streams  and  ponds,  and 
the  sun  has  warmed  the  waters  a  trifle,  brook  trout  will  be 


Trout  Fishing. 

found  in  the  deep  water  and  holes  of  the  brooks,  and  it  is 

iiard   work  to   get  them   to  rise  at  a  fly.     They  probably 

mow  that  flico  are  out  of  season  at  this  time.     If  the  fish- 

ng  fever  is  on,  you  must  take  a  plebian  worm  and  let  it  lay 

)n  the  bottom  until  it  is  sucked  in  by  some  lazy  trout,  then 

'  yank."     A  little  later,  when  the  snow  water  is  a  thing  of 

he  past,  and  the  fruit  trees  are  in  bloom,  and  the  black  fly 

nd  the  May  fly  are  out  to  devour  and  be  devoured,  and 

he  lazy  trout,  by  exercise  on  the  riffs  and  in  rough  water, 

.as  become  an  athlete,  then  take  your  rod,  attach  the  patri- 

ian  fly,  and   cast  ever  so  gently  at  the  head  of  the  riffs, 

diere  a  stone  makes  a  little  eddy,  working  down  gradually 

3  tliie  pool  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  where  tke  heads  of  the 

imily  "  receive,"  if  they  have  not  already  anticipated  your 

isit  by  going  up  the  riffs  like  a  quarter-horse,  and  taken 

our  fly  with  a  leap  that  shows  you  what  you  have  to  con- 

jnd  with.     As  the  weather  grows  warmer  they  will   drop 

ack  to  the  deep  shady  holes,  invigorated  and  fattened  by 

leir  visit  to  the  graveled-bottom  rapids.     It  may  be  that 

ou  will  now  be  obliged  to  advance  backward  to  the  worm 

^  t  will  not  be  sucked  in  now,  and  you  will  not  be  in  doubt 

3  to  whether  you  have  a  bite  or  no),  or  to  a  live  chub  or 

liner,  or  the  tail  of  either,  that  when  it  is  let  down  into  the 

ble  with  the  current  and  drawn  up  stream,  it  will  whirl  like  a 

ling  of  life ;  I  say  you  may  be  obliged  to  resort  to  this,  for 

lere  are  holes  in  streams  where  it  would  be  folly  to  attempt 

)  cast  a  fly.     If  a  person  wishes  to  pass  them  by  because 

ley  never  fish  with  other  than  a  fly,  some  one  not  so  fas- 

dious  may  come  after  and  bring  to  basket  some  of  the 

Idest  inhabitants  of  the  brook.     Should  you  fish  one  day 

id  find  that  the  trout  are  all  seeking  the  seclusion  which 

le  deep  hole  grants  to  themselves,  their  sisters  and  their 

lusins  and  their  aunts  (I  will  pay  my  fine  to  any  authorized 

arson),  and  the  evening,  night  or  next  day  brings  a  shower 

slightly  raise  the  brook,  as  soon  as  the  shower  is  over  try 

again,  but  fish  the  rapids,  for  the  trout  have  come  out  to 


The  Adirondacks. 

see  what  the  flood  has  brought  for  them  to  feast  upon 
A  Httle  later  the  deep  holes  get  warm  by  reason  of  1om> 
water  and  continued  hot  weather.  The  trout  have  theii 
resorts  at  this  season  as  well  as  the" angler,  and  so  they  take 
their  families  and  travel  to  some  portion  of  the  stream 
where  a  cold  spring  comes  in,  or  some  spring  bubbles  up 
from  the  bottom.  At  these  "  spring  holes "  they  will  be 
found  in  hot  weather  in  great  numbers,  if  the  game  law  has 
been  observed.  | 

As  to  flies,  most  people  have  their  own  ideas;  but  as  this- 
is  written  for  those  who  have  just  joined  the  brotherhood,  it  \ 
may  be  well  to  say  that  out  of  the  countless  number  of  flies,  j 
some  of  them  unlike  any  thing  under  the  sun,  the  red,  black, 
brown  and  gray  hackles,*  tied  both  as  a  hackle  and  palmer 
fashion.  Coachman,*  yellow  professor,*  light  and  dark  fox,* 
black  gnat,  Romeyn  Abbey,  Seth  Green,  White  Miller, 
Grizzley  King,*  and  Queen  of  the  Water,*  constitute  a 
good  supply  if  one  takes  a  half  dozen  of  each.  Even  this 
number  is  considered  by  some  too  many.  My  fly  books  con- 
tain more  than  two  gross  of  flies,  but  many  kinds  have  never 
been  used,  and  in  all  probabilities  never  will  be.  I  think  I 
am  safe  in  saying  that  the  largest  trout  are  caught  at  dusk  or 
during  starlight  or  moonlight  nights;  if  I  am  too  broad  in 
making  this  assertion  I  will  modify  it  by  saying  /arge  trout  |l 
may  be  caught  at  this  time  by  using  a  white  miller,  or  a  fly  in 
which  v/hite  predominates;  and,  too,  you  must  use  a  larger 
hook  than  the  one  you  used  during  the  day.  If  you  have 
noticed  a  large  trout  in  the  stream  during  the  day,  and  been 
unable  to  catch  him,  try  him  at  night,  if  it  is  bright,  and  you 
may  be  reasonably  sure  of  his  rising  to  your  light  colored 
fly.  Sometimes  you  may  catch  an  obstinate  fellow  by  going 
above  his  resting  place  and  slightly  roiling  the  stream,  and 
as  the  muddy  water  passes  over,  let  your  fly  float  as  naturally 

*  Those  indicated  by  a  star  are  important,  and  should  be  in  every  collection. 


Trout  Fishing. 

as  possible  with  it,  and  the  chances  are  in  favor  of  your  get- 
ting the  trout.  He  probably  knows  that  roily  water  means 
a  freshet,  and  a  freshet  brings  with  it  insects  upon  which  he 
feeds.  The  latter  portion  of  May  and  the  month  of  June 
are  considered  the  best  portions  of  the  open  season  for  fish- 
ing in  the  Adirondacks,  and  morning  and  evening  the  best 
portion  of  the  day,  as  the  trout  are  then  seeking  their  natural 
food;  but  the  ways  of  the  trout  are  past  finding  out,  for 
there  are  times  when  they  will  bite  at  nothing. 

Although  bait  fishing  is  not  to  be  sneered  at,  use  a  fly  if 
possible  ;  you  will  have  more  satisfaction  with  half  a  basket 
caught  in  this  way  than  with  a  full  one  taken  with  bait.  If, 
however,  you  must  use  bait,  take  your  angle  or  earth  worm 
after  he  is  scoured  in  damp  moss,  and  pass  your  hook 
through  the  neck  half  an  inch  from  the  head,  then  gathering 
up  a  loop  of  the  body  and  pass  through  again  and  again 
until  you  have  the  shank,  as  well  as  the  beard  of  the  hook, 
well  covered  and  half  an  inch  of  "  worm  "  over,  should 
your  worm-loop,  or  head,  or  tail  be  taken  of  and  the  fish 
not  taken  in,  put  on  a  fresh  bait.  Unless  you  have  some 
decided  objection  fish  down  sirea7it.  If  you  use  live  bait, 
(minnows)  pass  your  hook  through  its  back  under  the  dor- 
sal fin,  but  not  so  low  as  to  break  the  back  bone  ;  should 
you  use  a  portion  of  a  minnow,  cut  off  the  tail  just  at  the  dor- 
sal fin ;  put  your  hook  in  at  the  tail,  and  along  the  back 
bone,  until  the  point  of  the  hook  nearly  reaches  the  place 
cut ;  your  bait  will  then  be  curved  to  correspond  with  the 
bend  of  your  hook,  and  will  whirl  nicely  when  drawn 
against  the  current. 

As  to  direction  for  flyfishing,  I  give  it  up.  The  best  way 
is  to  go  out  with  some  one  who  uses  a  fly,  and,  in  one  day, 
you  will  learn  more  than  from  written  directions  studied 
faithfully  for  a  month.  There  are  many  flies  besides  those 
mentioned  above,  should  the  angler  desire  a  more  extensive 
stock  in  his  book.  It  may  be  well  to  mention  a  few,  such 
as  Gray  Drake,  Silver  Black,  Adirondack,  General  Hooker, 


iHE   ADIRONDACKS. 

Scarlet  Ibis,  Shoemaker,  Jungle  Cock,  Oak  Fly,  Brown 
Hen,  Hoskins,  King  of  the  Water,  Green  Drake,  Montreal, 
Moose,  etc.  As  to  tackle  get  a  split  bamboo,  hornbeam 
or  ash  and  lance  wood  rod  of  three  joints,  about  eleven  feet 
long,  weighing  eight  to  ten  ounces.  This  with  an  extra  tip 
or  tips,  one  a  little  shorter  than  the  others,  will  answer  for 
both  bait  and  fly,  unless  you  propose  to  "  yank  "  your  fish, 
in  which  case  you  need  heavier  timber  ;  a  click  reel  to  hold 
forty  yards  of  braided  silk,  tapered  line  waterproofed,  a 
half-dozen  leaders  or  casting  lines  nine  feet  long,  of  best 
round  silkworm  gut,  and  smaller  hooks  or  flies  tied  upon 
O'Shaunesey  or  Sproat  bend  hooks,  with  a  landing  net  of 
coarse  mesh,  will  constitute  an  outfit  for  brook  trout  in  the 
Adirondacks.  It  is  poor  economy  to  buy  poor  tackle ;  if 
you  get  any  get  the  best,  even  if  you  get  less. 

The  lake  or  salmon  trout,  alt'  ough  he  will  take  a  fly  at 
times,  is  usually  caught  by  trolling.  The  fnodus  ope7'a?idi  is 
as  follows  :  With  a  stiftish  trolling  rod,  a  balance  multiplying 
reel  to  hold  loo  yards  of  braided  silk,  or  linen  line  No.  4, 
leaders  12  feet  long  of  single  gut,  and  a  minnow  gang,  which 
is  made  by  tying  6,  9  or  12  hooks  in  groups  of  three  to  a 
length  of  single  gut  with  a  single  hook  about  one  and  a  half 
inches  above  the  upper  group  of  hooks  for  a  lip  hook,  a 
gaff  hook,  and  a  pail  of  minnows  completing  the  outfit.  I 
am  too  fast ;  you  also  require  two  or  three  pounds  of  lead. 
Lake  trout  fishing  is  in  order  as  soon  as  the  ice  leaves  the 
lakes,  but  at  this  time  the  trout  are  at  the  bottom,  so  put 
your  rod  together,  put  on  your  reel,  pass  your  line  through 
the  standing  guides  of  your  rod,  attach  your  leader  and 
minnow  gang,  put  the  lip  hook  through  both  lips  of  the  live 
bait,  bend  the  bait  and  put  one  of  the  group  hooks  through 
the  back  of  the  bait  behind  the  back  fin  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  make  it  revolve  when  drawn  slowly  through  the  water, 
ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  joining  of  your  casting  line  or 
leader  and  your  fish  line,  tie  on  your  sinker  with  a  piece  of 
line  6  or  8  feet  long,  weaker  than  your  fish  line,  so  if  you 


Trout  Fishing. 

catch  on  the  bottom  you  will  lose  only  your  sinker.  Your 
sinker  must  be  heavy  enough  to  carry  your  line  nearly  to  the 
bottom.  You  can  fish  by  letting  your  sinker  strike  bottom 
and  pulling  in  only  to  let  your  sinker  strike  again,  but  you 
need  to  know  the  kind  of  bottom  upon  which  you  are  fish- 
ing, as  grass  would  soon  use  up  your  lead.  This  kind  of 
fishing  can  be  better  shown  than  taught  by  writing,  and  as 
it  is  not  necessary  we  will  pass  it.  About  the  first  of  May 
the  trout  begin  to  rise  to  the  surface,  and  the  higher  up 
they  are  the  less  sinker  you  require.  Soon  they  are  at  the 
surface  to  stay  only  for  a  few  days.  Now  you  require  only 
enough  sinker  to  keep  your  bait  well  under  water,  or  even 
no  sinker  at  all,  for  wherever  the  trout  are,  bottom  or  top, 
the  boat  must  be  rowed  very  slowly. 

Buoy  fishing  is  done  by  anchoring  a  block  of  wood,  as  a 
land-mark,  or  water-mark,  in  some  deep  portion  of  the  lake. 
Morning  and  evening,  for'  two  or  three  days,  bait  your  buoy 
by  throwing  overboard  bits  of  fish  cut  up  about  the  size  of 
a  butternut ;  this  will  sometimes  attract  the  fish  and  keep 
them  around  the  buoy.  When  you  think  it  baited,  put  on 
your  hook  a  piece  of  fish  like  that  you  have  used,  or  a  live 
minnow,  and  drop  it  over,  and  keep  your  bait  moving  up 
and  down  by  a  shght  motion  of  your  hand,  until  the  sun 
gets  too  hot,  or  your  seat  gets  too  hard,  or  you  make  up 
your  mind  that  there  are  better  ways  of  fishing.  If  this 
last  happens,  stick  to  it,  and  let  some  one  else  jig  their  line 
in  loo  or  125  feet  of  water,  with  the  result:  "Oh,  a 
trout  just  breathed  on  the  bait,  but  that  was  all !"  Buoy 
fishing  is  not  practiced  now  nearly  as  much  as  in  former 
years,  but  trout  are  yet  caught  in  this  manner.  The  open 
season  is  from  April  ist  to  October  ist,  brook  trout,  April 
I  St  to  September  ist.  I  have  of  necessity  omitted  much 
that  might  be  said  about  trout  fishing,  and  perhaps  written 
what  could  as  well  be  omitted;  but  will  say  in  conclusion, 
let  the  "  sign  "  be  in  the  head  or  in  the  feet,  the  next  time 
you  try  them,  may  your  baskets  be  filled  with  fair-sized 
trout,  but  leave  the  little  ones  in  the  water  to  grow. 

A.  N.  Cheney. 


Game  Laws. 

The  open  season  for  game  found  in  the  Adirondacks  is  by  law 
as  follows :  Ruffled  grouse,  commonlv  called  partridge,  from 
September  ist  to  January  ist;  wiia  fowl,  September  ist  to  May 
1st;  woodcock,  August  ist  to  January  ist;  hares  or  rabbits, 
November  ist  to  February  ist;  squirrels  (black  or  gray)  August 
1st  to  Januar}'^  ist;  deer  from  August  15th  to  November  ist 
Deer  may  be  hunted  with  dogs  (except  in  St,  Lawrence  County) 
from  September  ist  to  October  20th.  No  person  shall  kill  more 
than  three  deer  in  one  year.  No  deer  or  venison  shall  be  trans- 
ported from  the  Adirondacks  by  any  person  or  common  carrier,  ,| 
except  from  the  1 5th  of  August  to  the  1 5th  of  November,  and 
between  such  dates  but  one  deer  or  carcass  can  be  transported 
for  each  owner,  and  it  must  be  accompanied  by  the  owner.  No 
fawn  shall  be  killed  at  any  time.  The  penalty  for  the  violation 
of  any  of  the  provisions  of  the  deer  law  is  $100. 

The  open  season  for  brook  trout,  California  and  brown  trout 
in  the  counties  constituting  the  forest  preserve  is  from  May  ist 
to  September  1 5th;  lake  trout  and  land-locked  salmon  from  May 
ist  to  October  ist.  Elsewhere  in  the  State  the  brook  trout 
season  opens  April  ist  and  closes  September  ist,  and  in  Lake 
George,  lake  trout  can  only  be  taken  from  May  ist  to  October 
ist.  No  trout  or  salmon  can  be  transported  from  the  Adiron- 
dacks except  when  accompanied  by  their  owner. 

Black  bass  can  be  caught  in  Lake  George  and  Brant  Lake 
only  from  August  ist  to  January  ist;  in  Schroon  Lake  and 
River,  Paradox  and  Friends  Lakes  only  from  July  15  to  Janu- 
ary 1st;  elsewhere  in  the  Adirondacks  from  May  3010  January 
ist.  Black  bass  under  eight  inches  in  length  or  one-half  pound 
in  weight  must  be  returned  to  the  water  uninjured. 

No  one  is  permitted  to  deposit  any  fish  in  the  waters  of  th« 
Adirondack  region  unless  the  fish  so  deposited  are  indigenous 
to  the  particular  water  where  placed,  except  that  non-preying  or 
non-destructive  fish  which  constitute  lood  for  fish  of  the  salmon 
family  may  be  deposited. 

A.  N.  Cheney. 


Where  and  Where  Not  to  Fish. 

In  1882  Mr.  Fred  Mather,  the  well  known  fish  culturist,  ex- 
plored a  great  portion  of  what  is  known  as  Adirondack 
waters  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  ichthyological  report 
to  accompany  the  report  of  the  Adirondack  survey.  Mr. 
Mather's  researches  have  only  recently  been  given  to  the  pub- 
lic, and  no  part  of  them  will  prove  of  more  interest  to  the  sum- 
mer visitor  to  the  great  wilderness  than  that  relating  to  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  fishes  known  to  the  anglers  as  the  "game 
fishes ;"  such  as  are  captured  by  rod  and  line.  For  the  names  of 
the  lakes,  ponds  and  streams  that  are  used  in  the  report, 
he  relied  upon  Stoddard's  map  of  the  Adirondack  wilder- 
ness. Mr.  Mather  supplemented  his  summer's  work  of  per- 
sonal exploration  and  examination  by  reports  from  guides  and 
others  regarding  waters  that  he  had  not  the  time  to  visit.  So 
that  his  report,  so  far  as  it  goes,  is  reasonably  correct  and 
trustworthy. 

Brook  trout  are  not  found  in  the  following  waters  :  Metcal, 
and  T  Lakes,  tributaries  of  West  Canada  Creek,  Spectacle,  Dex- 
ter, Spy,  Oxbow,  Metcalf,  Coal,  Scuts,  Willis,  Murphy,  Warner, 
Remson  and  Bug  Lakes.  All  others  are  supposed  to  contain 
them. 

Lake  trout,  commonly  called  salmon  trout,  are  not  found  in 
the  following  waters  :  None  of  the  lakes  of  West  Canada  Creek 
except  Spruce,  Indian,  Ferris,  Christian,  Morehouse,  Jersey- 
field,  Goodluck,  Oxbow,  Metcalf,  Sheriff,  Canada,  Coal,  Willis, 
Nicks,  Little  Woodhull,  Stone  Dam,  Wilmurt  and  the  Eagle 
Chain  of  Lakes.  By  implication  the  other  lakes  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks  do  contain  lake  trout. 

Black  bass  are  found  in  Raquette,  Forked,  White,  Fourth, 
Bisby,  Sucker,  the  Blue  Mountain  Chain  and  the  Fulton  Chain 
of  Lakes,  Moose  and  Black  Rivers. 

The  Rainbow  (California)  trout  have  been  placed  in  -Fulton 
Chain,  Bisby,  Woodhull,  Pleasant,  Round,  Horn,  and  Jones 
Lakes,  Moose,  Oswegatchie  and  Black  Rivers,  and  Silver  Lake. 

Land-locked  salmon  have  been  planted  in  Woodhull,  Mur' 
Sand,  Little  Moose  and  the  Fulton  Chain  of  Lakes. 


2i8  Forest  Commission. 

The  Forest  Commission,  hiaving  charge  of  the  forest  preserve, 
was  created  by  Chapter  283  of  the  laws  of  1885.  The  commis- 
sioners now  in  office  are  Theodore  B.  Basselin,  Townsend 
Cox,  and  Dudley  Farlin.     Charles  O.  McCredie,  Secretary. 

The  warden  is  Col.  William  F.  Fox.  It  is  a  responsible 
office,  as  upon  the  efficiency  of  the  officer  rests  largely  the  ques- 
tion of  success  or  failure  in  what  is  yet  but  little  more  than  an 
experiment.  The  result  so  far  has  shown  that  the  one  item 
of  trees  which  the  honest  but  giddy  lumbermen  cut  annually 
by  mistake  on  land  belonging  to  the  State,  amounts  to 'thou- 
sands of  dollars. 

The  lands  constituting  the  forest  preserve  are  the  lands  now 
owned,  or  which  may  hereafter  be  acquired,  by  the  State  of 
New  York  within  the  counties  of  Clinton  (excepting  the  towns 
of  Altona  and  Dannemora)  Delaware,  Essex,  Franklin,  Ful- 
ton, Hamilton,  Herkimer,  Lewis,  Saratoga,  St.  Lawrence, 
Oneida,  Warren,  Washington,  Greene,  Ulster  and  Sullivan ; 
"and  the  forest  preserve  shall  be  forever  kept  as  wild  forest 
lands." 

The  Forest  Commission  has  power  to  appoint  a  forest  war- 
den, forest  inspectors,  guards  and  fire  wardens.  The  forest 
warden,  forest  inspectors,  foresters  and  other  persons  acting 
upon  the  forest  preserve  under  the  written  employment  of  the 
forest  warden,  or  of  the  Forest  Commission,  may,  without 
warrant,  arrest  any  person  found  upon  the  forest  preserve  vio- 
lating any  provisions  of  the  act  creating  the  commission. 

It  also  has  the  same  power  to  bring  action  for  trespass  and 
to  recover  damages  for  injury,  or  to  prevent  injury  to  the  pre- 
serve which  any  owner  of  lands  would  be  entitled  to  bring. 

The  fire  wardens  have  power  to  call  upon  any  person  in  the 
territory  in  which  they  act  for  assistance  in  suppressing  fires, 
and  every  person  refusing  to  act  when  so  called  shall  be  liable 
to  a  fine  of  not  less  than  five  nor  more  than  twenty  dollars. 

Any  person  who  shall  wilfully  or  negligently  set  fire  to  any 
forest  lands  belonging  to  the  State,  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  of 
not  less  than  fifty  nor  more  than  five  hundred  dollars,  or  to  im- 
prisonment of  not  less  than  thirty  days  nor  more  than  six  months. 


Routes  to  Gateways. 

HOW  TO  REACH  THE  ADIRONDACKS  is  naturally  the 
first  question  asked,  and  to  be  answered  here.  The  object  of  this 
chapter  is  to  get  the  traveller  from  the  great  city  to  the  grand  old 
wilderness. 

The  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  carries 
the  larger  proportion  of  the  people  who  go  up  out  of  Gotham  to  the 
lakes  and  mountains  at  the  north.  Without  ostentation,  it  provides 
its  patrons  with  the  best  of  service  at  the  minimum  of  cost.  Special 
fast  trains  leave  the  Grand  Central  Station  for  Saratoga  and  Lake 
George  during  the  season,  one  leaving  at  about  9  a.  m.,  reaching  the 
points  mentioned  early  in  the  afternoon.  Another  at  about  3,30?. 
M.,  reaches  Saratoga  at  9  o'clock,  and  on  Saturday  night  runs  to 
Lake  George,  returning  on  Saturday  evening.  A  train  leaving  at 
6.25  p.  M.,  with  through  sleepers  attached,  connects  early  in  the 
morning  at  North  Creek  with  stages  for  Blue  Mountain  Lake  ;  at 
Westport  with  stages  for  Elizabethtown  and  Lake  Placid  ;  at  Port 
Kent  for  Au  Sable  Chasm,  and  at  Plattsburgh  with  trains  for  Au 
Sable  Station  and  Saranac  Lake.  For  time  tables  or  any  desired  in- 
formation address  George  H.  Daniels,  General  Passenger  Agent, 
Grand  Central  Station,  N.  Y. 

The  West  Shore  Railroad,  during  the  season  of  summer  travel 
run?  through  trains  from  Washington  to  the  Adirondacks.  Pas- 
sengers and  baggage  are  taken  from  Jay  and  42d  Streets,  New  York. 

The  Day  Boats  are  the  ''  New  York"  and  "  Albany  " — new  and 
splendid  specimens  of  shipcraft,  with  iron  hulls  300  feet  in  length, 
accommodating  1,800  passengers,  and  claimed  to  be  the  fastest  steam- 
boats in  the  world.  They  were  built  exclusively  for  carrying  passen- 
gers. The  spacious  cabins  are  finished  in  highly  polished  woods, 
are  furnished  luxuriously,  and  adorned  with  statuary  and  paintings. 
The  dining-rooms  are  on  the  main  deck,  where  the  traveler  can  en- 
joy an  excellent  dinner,  which  is  served  on  the  European  plan,  and 
lose  nothing  of  the  view  of  this  most  charming  of  American  rivers. 
They  leave  New  York  and  Albany  at  about  8:30  A.  M.,  touching  at 
the  principal  landings  on  their  way,  meet  near  Poughkeepsie,  and  ar- 
rive at  their  destinations  at  about  6  p.  m.  A  pleasant  feature  is  an 
orchestra  on  each  steamer.  During  the  season,  fast  trains  run  to  and 
from  Saratoga  to  connect  with  these  boats,  and  on  Saturday  night 
run  through  to  Lake  George.  Fare,  |2.  F.  B.  Hibbard,  G.  P  .  A., 
Desbrosses  Street  Pier,  New  York. 

The  People's  Line  Steamers,  "  Drew"  and  "  Deai  Richmond," 
form  the  night  line  between  Albany  and  New  York.  They  have  few, 
if  any,  equals  in  size,  equipment,  or  accommodations,  combining  all 
the  conveniences  of  a  first-class  hotel,  and  well  deserving  the  name, 
so  often  bestowed,  of  floating  palaces.  Meals  are  served  on  the  Eu- 
ropean plan.    M.  B.  Waters,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Albany,  N.  Y. 

The  Citizens'  Line  Steamers,  "  Saratoga"  and  "City  of  Troy," 
are  also  fine  specimens  among  this  distinctive  class  of  river  boats. 
They  are  of  light  draft,  and  fitted  up  with  a  view  to  speed  in 
traveling.  The  state  rooms  are  commodious,  heated  by  steam 
in  cold  weather,  and  are  complete  in  all  their  appointments. 
Meals    are    served    on    the    European    plan,  in    a    style    equal  to 


Routes  to  Gateways. 

the  best  of  hotels.  Free  transportation  carriages  between  the  depot 
and  steamboat  landing  at  Troy  attend  evening  trains  and  baggage  is 
transported  free.     Geo.  W.  Gibson,  G.  P.  A.,  Troy. 

It  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms  in  advance  by  either  of  these  lines 
during  the  height  of  the  season,  which  may  be  done  by  telegraphing 
their  respective  passenger  agents  at  Albany  or  Troy,  or  on  applica- 
tion to  the  offices  at  the  terminus  of  the  lines. 

The  Dela-ware  and  Hudson  Canal  Company,  by  its  absorption  of 
the  Albany  &  Susquehanna,  the  Rensselaer  &  Saratoga  and  the  New 
York  &  Canada  Railroads,  has  become  one  of  the  most  important 
carriers  of  summer  travel  in  the  country,  and  is  using  its  great  re- 
sources most  energetically  and  effectively  for  the  development  o( 
that  part  of  New  York,  including  Saratoga,  Lake  George  and  the 
Adirondack  Wilderness,  with  which  it  is  the  chief  channel  of  com- 
munication. During  the  season  of  pleasure  travel  extra  fast  trains 
are  run  from  Albany  and  Troy  to  Saratoga,  Lake  George,  Platts- 
burgh  and  Montreal.  The  appointments  of  the  road  are  all  that  can 
be  desired,  the  cars  being  specially  fitted  for  pleasure  travel,  and  so 
comfortable  that  drawing-room  cars  are  not  so  much  a  necessity  as 
they  may  be  considered  on  some  roads. 

Southern  connections  are  made  at  Troy  with  Hudson  River 
railroad  and  Citizens'  line  steamers  for  New  York,  and  with  the 
Troy  and  Boston  railroad  for  the  east.  At  Albany  with  H.  R.  and 
West  Shore  roads,  and  day  and  night  boats  for  New  York  ;  with 
Albany  and  Susquehanna  railroad  for  Howe's  Cave  (39  miles), 
Sharon  Spings  (58  miles),  Cooperstown,  on  the  beautiful  Otsego 
Lake  (91  miles),  and  to  Binghampton  (142  miles),  and  with  New 
York  Central  railroad  for  points  west. 

Northern  connections  (with  fare  from  Albany). — At  Mechanics- 
ville  f6o  cts.)  with  Hoosac  Tunnel  route  for  Boston  ;  at  Saratoga 
($1.17)  with  Adirondack  railroad  for  Luzerne,  Schroon  Lake  and  Blue 
Mountain  Lake  (see  Gateway  No.  7) ;  at  Caldwell  ($2.58)  with  steamer 
on  Lake  George  (Gateway  No.  6)  ;  at  Whitehall  ($2.34)  with  trains 
from  Rutland  and  the  east ;  at  Ticonderoga  (I3.00)  with  branch 
road  to  foot  of  Lake  George;  at  Crown  Point  ($3-3o)  with  C.  P.  L 
Co.  s  railway  (see  Gateway  No.  4)  ;  at  Westport  (I3.84)  with  stages 
for  Elizabethtown,  Keene  Valley  and  Lake  Placid  (Gateway  No.  3) ; 
at  Port  Kent  ($4-65)  with  stages  for  Au  Sable  Chasm  and  Keeseville 
(Gateway  No.  2) ;  at  Plattsburgh  (.f  5.04)  with  Ausable  Branch  and 
Chateaugay  railroads  (Gateway  No.  i)  for  the  Saranac,  St.  Regis 
and  Chateaugay  Lakes,  and  at  Rouses  Point  ($5-75)  with  Central 
Vermont  railroad  for  the  east,  and  the  Ogdensburg  and  Lake 
Champlain  road  to  points  west. 

From  Whitehall  north  to  Port  Henry  the  route  is  substantially  the 
same  as  described  on  pages  17  to  23;  then  the  road  bears  away 
until  Westport  station  is  passed  nearly  a  mile  inland,  after  which  it 
crosses  and  follows  down  the  valley  of  the  Boquet,  passing  along 
nearly  two  miles  distant  from  Essex,  situated  on  the  lake  shore.  As 
the  head  of  Willsborough  Bay  is  neared,  it  rises  gradually  to  more 
than  a  hundred  feet  above  the  water  at  times  on  some  shelf  cut  in  the 
sloping  wall  ;  then  over  solid  arches  of  stone  spanning  a  mountain 
torrent  ;  anon  plunging  through  deep  cuts,  and  at  one  point  diving 
into  the  inky  darkness  of  the  tunnel ;  then  out  along  the  beetling 
cliffs,  while  below  the  deep  waters  dash  against  the  perpendicular 
walls,  and  upward  a  hundred  feet  the  red  rock  rising,  slopes  away  to 
the  mountain  height  above. 


INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


HOTELS — Adirondacks.— Augur  Lake,  page  237; 
Beaver  Lake,  245  ;  Big  Clear  Pond,  261  ;  Bloomingdale,  241 ; 
Blue  Mountain  Lake,  253,  254;  Bluff  Point,  238;  Cascade 
Lakes,  257;  Chateaugay  Lake,  241;  Chestertown,  253; 
Childwold  Park,  245;  Clear  Lake,  250;  Clear  Pond  (Big), 
245;  Cranberry  Lake,  245;  Crown  Point,  252;  Elizabeth- 
town,  236,  237;  Indian  Lake,  247;  Keene  Valley,  248,  249; 
Lake  Placid,  245,  247  ;  Lake  Pleasant,  258;  Long  Lake,  257; 
Luzerne,  251;  Moose  Lake,  246;  Moose  River,  246;  North 
Creek,  258;  North  River,  258;  Peasleville,  239;  Pitts- 
burgh, 237;  Pottsville,  251;  Rainbow  Lake,  241;  Raquette 
Falls,  257;  Raquette  Lake,  256;  Raquette  River,  (Tromb- 
lee's),  245;  Root's,  253;  Rouse's  Point,  237;  Saranac  Lake, 
(lower),  242,  243;  (upper),  244;  Schroon  Lake,  252,  253; 
Stony  Creek  Ponds,  245  ;  Tupper  Lake,  246;  Westport,  236; 
Albany,  235;  Lake  George,—  230,  231,  232,  233; 
Saratoga,  261. 

RAILROADS. — Chateaugay,  240;  Delaware  &  Hud- 
son, 229  ;  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.,  228. 

STAGES. — Blue  Mountain  Lake,  239;  Elizabethtown 
and  Lake  Placid,  236;  Riverside  and  Schroon  Lake,  237. 

LIVERY. — Lowville,  245  ;  Saranac  Lake,  241. 
I       STEAMBOATS.— Blue  Mountain  and  Raquette  Lake, 
255;    Lake    Champlain    and    Lake    George,    234;    Hudson 
River,  (day  boats),  256  ;  (night  boats),  259. 

MISCELLANEOUS.— Books,  258 ;  Forest  and 
Stream,  262;  Maps  and  Photographs,  263,  264;  Cottage 
Sites,  (Lake  Placid),  251;  (Long  Lake),  257;  Kodaks,  260; 
Photographer,  249 ;  Photographic  Goods,  259 ;  Webster's 
International  Dictionary,  259. 


228 


Passenger  Rates  from  New  York 


iziK 


•  •  • 


NEW  YORK   CENTRAL 


AND 


HUDSON  RIVER  RAILROAD 


AND    CONNECTING    LINES. 


NOTE. — Through  tickets  to  the  following  points  are  on  sale  at  all  New 
York  offices  of  the  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad.  Excurs- 
ion tickets  are  issued  at  prices  given  in  the  column  of  figures  under  "And 
Return  " 

For  further  information  apply  to  George  H.  Daniels,  General  Passenger 
Agent,  Grand  Central  Station,  New  York. 


And 
TO  Return. 

Albany $3-io    $6.00 

Au  Sable  Chasm 14 -5° 

Au  Sable  Station 8.60     15.85 

Blue  Mountain  Lake. .    8.95     17.00 

Baldwin 6.70 

Caldwell* 5.55     10.25 

De  Kalb  Junction 8.61 

Elizabethtown 7.80     14.50 

Forked  Lake 10.70     20.50 

Fort  Ticonderoga 5.95 

Glens  Falls 4-80      8.80 

Gouverneur 8.21 

Lake  Placid: 

via  Plattsburg  &  Cha- 

teaugay  R,  R 11.60     22.50 

Lake  George* 5.55     10.25 

Through    and  return 

via  Ticonderoga.... 

Loon  Lake 10.90 

Lake  Luzerne,  (Hadley)  4.86 


13-15 

20.30 

8.80 


TO 

Malone $9.90 

Montreal 10.00 

via  Lake  George. . . .  12.00 

North    Creek 5.94 

Northville 4.98 

Paul  Smith's 12.00 

Plattsburgh 8.00 

Port  Kent 7.60 

Potsdam 9.21 

Raquette  Lake 10.20 

Riverside 5.70 

Rome 5.30 

Rouse's  Point 8.70 

Saratoga 4.20 

Saranac  Inn 12.85 

Saranac  Lake  (lower).  11.35 

Schroon   Lake 7  45 

Troy 3.15 

Westport 6.81 


And 
Return. 


18.25 
20.25 
II. 

21.25' 

14.7s 
14.00 

19.50 
10.50 


750 
23-25 
21.15 
14.00 

12.45 


*  During  the  season  a  Special  Excursion  Ticket  is  issued  for  $8.56,  good 
on  Saturday  to  Caldwell,  and  return  following  night. 


•^THEf^ 


TO  THE 


ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS, 

MONTREAL-;  QUtBtC, 

Lake  George,  Lake  Champlain,  Au  Sable  Chasm, 

Saratoga,  Round  Lake,   Howe's  Cave,  Sharon 

Springs,  Cooperstown  and  the 

CELEBRATED    GRAVITY    RAILROAD,    between 
Carbondaie  and   Honesdale,  Pa., 

6T  miles  shorter  than  any  other  line,  between  New  York,  Albany 

or  Troy  to  the  St.  Regis  Lakes. 

ONLY  AN  HOUR'S  STAGE  RIDE  TO  LAKE  PLACID. 

The  completion  of  the  Cbateaugay  R.  R.  from  Plattsburgh  to 
Saranac  Lake,  opens  up  the  very  heart  of  the  Adirondack  Moun- 
tains to  direct  Rail  Communication. 

Loiy  Price  Excursion  Tickets 

To  all  the  famous  Adirondack,  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain 
resorts  are  on  sale  at  the  Company's  offices,  Albany,  Troy  and 
Saratoga,  during  the  season  of  pleasure  travel. 


H.C.YOUNG, 

20   VICE-PRESIDENT. 


J.  W.  BURDICK- 

GENERAL    PASSENGER    AGENT, 

ALBANY.  N.  Y. 


231 

CHANGE    IN    OWNERSHIP    AND    MANAGEMENT. 


-W^^ 


FQItT-WiLLinn '-  - 


Lake   George. 

0.  D.  SEAVEY,  of  the  Hotel  Ponce  de  Leon,  and 
Alcazar,  St.  Augustine,  Fla,,  Manager. 


This  Hotel,  which  is  the  only  "Great  Hotel  "  at  Lake  George,  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  best  appointed  summer  houses 
in  the  world. 

Its  lake  frontage  is  three  hundred  and  thirty  four  feet,  along 
which  runs  the  finest  and  broadest  veranda  on  the  continent.  Its 
grounds  are  spacious  and  elegant.  The  furniture  and  all  the  appurte- 
naces  are  of  the  best,  a  fast  running  elevator,  a  first-class  orchestra, 
and  every  other  convenience  and  luxury  which  the  choice  or  taste  of 
guests  may  demand,  are  provided. 

The  new  railroad  station  and  steamboat  landing  is  only  a  few 
rods  east  of  the  hotel,  and  an  omnibus  will  meet  every  train  and  boat. 

In  the  office  of  the  hotel  tickets  are  sold  and  baggage  checked 
to  all  points. 

The  general  telegraph  office  for  Lake  George  is  located  in  the 
hotel,  and  furnishes  free  stock  quotations  daily. 

Board,    per   day,  $4.00,  $4.50  and  $5.00   according  to  room. 


232 


THE  MARION  HOUSE, 

LAKE  GEORGE,  N.  Y. 


Located  on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake,  about  six  miles  north  of  Caldwell ; 
stands  on  a  slight  eminence,  a  little  removed  from  the  water  ;  commands  a 
view  of  the  broadest  portion  of  the  1  ake. 

Elevator,  G-as,  Electric  Bells,  TelegTaph  in  the  house. 

Four  daily  mails  ;  sanitary  conditions  perfect  ;  pure  spring  water. 

Jersey  Milk,  Cream  and  Vegetables  from  the  Hotel  Farm. 

Delightful  drives.         Good  fishing.         Every  facility  for  amusement. 

Accomodations  for  400  Guests. 

Rates,  $3.50per  day ;  $14  to  $25  per  week.  Send  for  illustrated 
book. 

D.  W.  SBERMAN,  Proprietor. 
H.  li.  SHERMAN,  Manager. 

Address  at  Glens  Falls  until  June  20,  after  that  date,  at  Lake  George. 

Searl  f  oint  Mouse, 

Lake   George,   N.   Y. 


One  of  the  leading  hotels  at  the  Lake.     Twelve  miles  from  Cald- 
well, on  the  east  side,  in 

THE  MOST  ATTRACTIVE  PART  OF  THE  LAKE, 
known   as  the   "Narrows."     It   has  all  the   requisites  for  pleasure 
seekers,  and  its 

FLEET  OF  SAIL  AND  ROW  BOATS 
is  the  largest  on  the  lake. 
Capacity,  150      Telegraph  in  the  house.     Four  daily  mails. 
Rates,  $3.50  per  day  ;  $12  to  $21  per  week. 


I 

D.  W.  SHERMAN,  Proprietor.  ^ 


233 

BURLEIGH  HOUSE, 

TICONDEROGA,    N.   Y. 
E.  J.  WOOD,        -       -       _        Proprietor. 

This  new  and  elcfjant  hotel  is  pleasantly  located  midway  between  I^ake 
Chain  plain  and  Lake  Georg^e. 

The  Building:  is  of  brick,  80x40,  4  stories  above  the  basement.  Mansard  roof, 
100  commodious  rooms,  newly  furnished  and  supplied  with  an  abundace  of 
Lake  Georg^e  water,  heated  by  steam,  lighted  by  electric  light,  hot  and  cold 
water  baths,  complete  fire  protection  on  each  Hoor.  All  the  appointments  are  first- 
class.  Burleigh  House  is  within  three  hours  ride  of  Schroon  Lake.  Shortest  and 
most  direct  way  to  the  Adirondacks. 

Attractions  include  many  points  of  historic  interest  within  short  range  of  this 
hotel,  among  which  are  the  extensive  fortifications  of  FORT  TICONDEROGA, 
built  by  the  French  in  1755,  and  surrendered  to  Col.  Ethan  Allen,  May  10th,  1775, 
who  demanded  it  "in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Con- 
gress. 

Mount  Hope,  where  heavy  redoubts  and  fortifications  were  made  upon  which 
to  erect  batteries  to  bear  upon  the  Fort. 

Mount  Defiance,  which  rises  750  feet  above  Lake  Champlain.  Gen.  Burgoyne 
ascended  this  mountain  from  the  north,  July  4th,  1777,  erected  a  battery  of  heavy 
guns  upon  its  summit,  completely  commanding  the  Fort,  and  dislodged  the  Ameri- 
cans. 

Lake  George,  (the  "  Como  "  of  America,)  with  its  many  delightful  resorts, 
and  thousand  enchanting  views. 

Lord  Howe's  Monument,  erected  near  where  he  was  fatally  wounded  by  a 
French  scout. 

Fort  Frederick,  built  by  the  French  in  1731,  much  of  which  remains  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation.     And  many  other  localities  of  interest. 

FI RST-CLASS  LIVERY  connected  with  the  house.  GOOD  BOATING  within 
few  minutes  walk  on  either  lake.  Fine  opportunity  for  fishing,  where  tons  of  trout 
and  bass  are  annually  taken.  Hunting  grounds  between  Lake  Pharaoh  and  Lake 
George,  abound  with  deer  and  small  game.  Teleg:raph  and  express  office  in  the 
house.     Rates  of  Board  $10  to  $20  per  week.    Transient,  $2.50  per  day. 


^  paND^ED  ISLAND  pengE, 

R.  G.  Bradley  &  Co,  Proprietors.  SHELVING  ROCK,  N.  Y. 

Rates,  $10  to  $17.50  per  week  ;  $2.50  to  $3  per  day.  Post-office  in 
the  house.  Particular  attention  given  to  invalids.  Telegraph  office 
within  five  minutes'  walk.  Fresh  milk  and  vegetables  from  Shelv- 
ing Rock  Farm. 


234 


^JIKE  ©iJIMPtJIIN  StE/IJ^ERS- 


STJMMKR    ARRANGKMENT. 


SEASON  OF   1891. 


"VERMONT,"   Capt.   Ruislnlow, 

will  leave  Plattsburg  at  7:00  a.  m.;  Bluff  Point,  7:15  a.  m.  Port  Kent, 
7:35  A.M.;  Burlington,  8:40  A.  m.;  Westport,  10:10  A.  m.;  arriving 
at  Fort  Ticonderoga,  12:25  P.  M.,  connecting  with  trains  for  the 
South  and  Lake  George;  returning,  leave  Fort  Ticonderoga  on  arri- 
val of  trains  from  the  South  and  Lake  George,  1:30  p.  m.;  Westport, 
3:30  P.M.,  for  Burlington,  Port  Kent,  Bluff  Point,  and  Plattsburgh. 

"  Cftateaugay,"  Captain  BaldT^rin, 

will  leave  Westport  at  7:00  A.   M.,   touching  at   Essex,    Burlington, 
Port  Kent.  Bluff  Point,  Plattsburg,  Gordon's  and  Adam's,  reaching 
North  Hero,  12:20  p.  M.;  returning,  leave  North   Hero  12:20  p.  m., 
touching  as  above,  arrive  at  Westport  6:45  p.  m. 
NO  SERVICE  ON  SUNDAYS. 

^J1K.E  (iEOKGE  §TEJlMEI(g. 

"HORICON,"  Capt.  Nlanville. 

^ill  leave  Caldwell  on  arrival  of  train  from  Saratoga  and  the 
South,  9.40  A.M.,  for  way  landings  and  Baldwin,  connecting 
with  train  for  Lake  Champlain ;  returning,  leave  Baldwin  i  P.M. 
for  Caldwell  and  the  South. 

"TICOKDEROQA,"  Ca.pt.  Arbticlcle, 

leaves  Baldwin  7.30  A.M.  for  way  landings  and  Caldwell,  con* 
necting  with  train  for  Saratoga.  Albany,  and  New  York ;  leaves 
Caldwell  on  arrival  of  train,  4.30  p.m.  for  Baldwin. 

9IEAL.S    SERTEO    ON    BOARD. 

GENERAL    OFFICE,  P.    W.    BARNEY, 

S»rtfMgl0mf  Vi,  Gtwfl  Su^«rimt§nd$iu 


235 


The  leaqins  hotel 


OF- 


-^iLjB.iL.i^^r,  IN".  '^- 


JUST  ADDED  at  an  Outlay  of  over  $100,000, 
/OO    ELEGANT    ROOMS, 

GRAND     DINING     HALL,     (Handsomest    in   the    State.) 

LOBBIES,    READING    ROOIMS,   ETC. 

CKNTRALLY   LOCATED,      Convenient   to 
State   Capital,    and  other  public   btiildings. 


FSEE  OMNIBUSSES  in  Attendance  at  all  Trains  and  Boats. 


F.   W.   ROCKWELL, 
Manager, 


H.  J.  ROCKWELL. 

Proprietor. 


236 


Abtrnnbark  iKloutttams, 


^n*» 


Centrally  situated  on  the   routes  to    the   Saranac   Lakes,   Raquette 

Waters  and  St.  Regis   Lakes;  Au  Sable  Chasm,  Keene  Valley 

and    Mt.     Marcy;    Schroon    Lake,    Lake    Placid,    John 

Brown's  Grave  and   the   Indian    Pass,  etc. 

Ticket  and  Telegraph  Office  in  house. 

Located  amidst  some  of  the  finest  mountain  scenery  in  the  Adirondacks. 

Good  drives  radiate  in  every  direction.  Guides,  Horses,  Carriages,  and 
every  requisite  for  mountain  excursions  at  reasonable  prices. 

Fine  Orchestra  for  Dancing. 

The  Hotel  has  been  enlarged  and  improved,  and  has  every  appliance  for 
health  and  comfort. 

An  elegant  line  of  Tally-Ho  stages  connecting  with  all  trains  and  boats  at 
Westport,  and  with  stages  at  Elizabethtown  for  Keene  Valley,  Lake  Placid, 
Saranac  and  St.  Regis  Lakes,  etc.,  etc. 

RATES,  $2.60  to  $3.00  per  day.  Special  to  parties  making  a  protracted  stay. 

ORLANDO  KELLOGG,  Proprietor, 

ELIZABETHTOWN,  N.  Y. 

TP  WEgWe^T  INN, 

Westport  on  Lake  Champlain,  New  York. 

Mrs.  0.  0.  DANIELL,  Manager.    Mrs.  HENRY  0.  LYON,  Assistant. 

A  thoroughly  well  appointed  house,  with  good  table,  pure  water 
supply  and  excellent  drainage,  wide  piazzas,  with  a  superb  view  of 
the  Lake  and  Mountains. 

Capacity  150.     Rates,  $3.00  per  day.     $10.00  to  $21.00  per  week. 

Good  boating,  fishing  and  fine  drives. 

Livery  stable  near  the  house. 

It  is  within  two  minutes'  walk  of  the  Lake  Champlain  Transpor- 
tation Company's  wharf,  two  minutes  from  the  Library  and  Post 
Office,  and  ten  minutes'  drive  from  the  Telegraph  Office  and  Depot 
of  the  D.  &  H.  R.  R.'" 

Stages  to  and  from  interior  points  in  the  Adirondacks  twice  daily. 

Addresa  'Westport,  N.  Y., 

or  1^9  St.  BotolpH  Street,  Boston. 


J37 


MANSION  HOUSE,  ^^'^^f^'T^^X^^^' 

I  M  Situated  at  the  (fatoway  to  tho  i»opular  summer  resorts  in  the,  Adirontlacks, 
seven  miles  from  Westport  600  feet  above  tide  water.  Finest  mountain  scenery, 
purest  air  and  best  water.  No  malaria,  no  hay  fever.  TabU^s  unsurpassed ;  av)point- 
meuts  modern:  sanitary  arrang-ements  perfect.  Write  for  circular.  Open  May  to  Oc- 
tober.   Valley  House  under  same  manasemcnt,  open  all  the  year. 

C.  W.  JENKINS,  MANAGER. 

CUAiBERLAND  FfQUSE, 

Plattsburgh,  N.   Y. 

Located  on  Trinity  Square.  Richly  furnished.  Every  conven- 
ience. Table  unsurpassed.  Special  attention  given  to  Tourist,'!  and 
Sportsmen.  Free  carriage  to  all  boats  and  trains.  Rates,  $3.00 
per  day.     Special  for  extended  stay. 

S.  G.  CORBIN,  Proprietor. 


ROUSE'S    POINT,   N.   Y. 
Lake  Champlain  and  Adirondacks. 

Is  delightfnlly  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Champlain,  near  its 
northern  end.  Its  Location  makes  it  a  very  desirable  residence  for  parties  to  whom 
acquatic  exercises  and  excursions  are  a  source  of  pleasure,  united  with  charming 
land  trips  and  amusements  The  air  is  invigorating  and  health-giving  while  the 
nights  are  always  cool  and  delightful,  and  free  from  that  oppressive  and  depressing 
sultriness  eo  common  to  summer  resorts.  3  1-3  Hours  from  Ottaira. 

The  Pleasantest  and  Healthiest  Spot  in  North'n  New  York. 

Neither  malaria  nor  insects;  no  hay  fever.  Everything  new  and  clean.  Sanitary 
arrangements  perfect. 

The  Angler  will  find  at  Rouse's  Point  every  facility  for  enjoyment.  Experts 
with  rod  and  reel  find  here  the  gamiest  of  fish,  there  being  an  abundance  of  Black 
Bass,  Pike,  Pickerel,  Muscalonge,  Yellow  Perch,  and  other  vanities  of  the  finny  tribe. 

The  Huntsman  will  find  for  his  game  bag  Woodcock,  Snipe,  Plover  and 
Duck  in  abundance.  Steam  Yachts,  Boats,  Carriages,  and  Saddle  Horses.  Two 
daily  mails  from  New  York.    Morning  Papers  received  in  the  evening. 

TERMS:  $2.50  to  $3.00  Per  Day. 

A  Liberal  Reduction  made  for  Parties  remainingbythe  Week  and  Season. 

CHAS.  BECK,  Hotel  Windsor, 
Also  Florida  House,  Dec.  to  May,  St.  Augustine,  Fla.  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y. 

FOWLER'S  LIVERY,  g ARAN A^TTTV. 

IN  CONNECTION  WITH 

HOTEL  AMPERSAND  and  THE  ALGONaUIN. 

Carriages  to  meet  parties  at  depot  on  arrival  of  all  trains, 

W.  S.  FOWL.ER,  Proprietor. 


238 


"TI?e|1ot^lQl7a/nplai9" 

(LAKE  CHAMPLAIN.) 

On   the  Line  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R., 
Three  Miles  South  of  Plattsburgh,  N.  Y. 


•'-^::»f^- 


-<i^=5<?-.. 


THE  SUPERB 
un^n^erJfotefoftReRortfi. 

The  northern  tour  is  not  complete  without  a  visit  to  the 
''  Champlain/^  the  most  desirable  and  convenient  stopping 
place  en-route. 

STRICTLY  FIRST  CLASS. 


E.  N.  WILSON,  Manager. 


239 

Salmop  I^iuer  l/alley, 

FEASLEVILLE,  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Kistiing,  Stiooting,  Boating,  Driving. 

Splendid  sport  in  brook-trout  fishing.  Streams  stocked  with  15,000 
young  trout.  Deer  hunting  in  its  season.  Large  numbers  yarded 
within  two  miles  of  the  village  last  winter. 

"Those  who  seek  the  country  for  health  and  comfort  ;  for  beautiful 
scenery  ;  for  pure  air  and  water  ;  for  good  hunting  and  fishing  ;  for 
abundant  and  wholesome  country  fare  ;  for  a  pleasant  summer  home 
amid  a  respectable  and  hospitable  people,  without  the  expense  and 
social  exaction  of  a  fashionable  summer  resort,  will  find  them  all  at 
Peasleville,  in  Clinton  County,  where  the  little  Salmon  River  breaks 
through  between  the  mountains  into  the  Champlain  Valley." 

Accommodations  can  be  found  among  the  farm  houses  in  the  valley 
and  on  the  mountain  sides.    Address  for  particulars, 

ARNOLD  &RICK:ETS0N, 

Peasleville,  Clinton  County,  N.  Y. 

ADI  RON  DACK  STAGE  CO.!J|fflH; 

5T/1QE  AHh  PUCK  50/lRb  LINE 

BETWEEN 

noRCf)  (^RGGK  tp  BLue  mounTsin  lake. 


Through  R.  R.  tickets  are  sold  to  and  from   Blue  Mountain   Lake 

and  all  principal  R.  R.  offices,  and  baggage    checked    through,    and 

the  Stage  Co.'s  Agent  boards   all  arriving  trains  in  season  to  re-check 

baggage  direct  to  hotels. 

Direct  Express  service  is  maintained  to  and  from  all  points  in 
connection  tvith  the  Adirondack  and  National  Express  Companies. 

Coach  Fares  are  as  follows:  From  North  Creek  to  North  River, 
50C.;  to  Indian  Lake,  (P.  O.)  $1.80;  to  Cedar  River  Hotel,  $2.00  ;  to 
Blue  Mountain  Lake,  $3.00.  Applications  for  buckboard  carriages, 
time  cards,  etc.,  should  be  made  by  mail  or  telegraph  to  the  Supt. 
Adirondack  Stage  Co.  Line,  at  North  Creek. 

The  six  and  four-horse  coaches  are  supplemented  by  a  large  number 
of  very  elegant  canopy-top  buckboard  carriages,  seating  parties  of  3 
and  t;  which  can  be  engaged  at  a  reasonable  additional  charge. 

Morning  coaches  from  North  Creek  connect  at  Blue  Mt.  Lake  direct 
with  steamers  for  Raquette  Lake  and  stages  to  Long  Lake. 

WALTER  V.  V.  MARSH,  Supt 


240 

ISQl.  — THIE—  ISQl. 

GHATEAUGAY  RAILROAD 

BETWEEN 

PLATTSBURGH  AND  SARANAC  LAKE, 

The  Short  AU-Eail  Line  to  the 

ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS, 

—  IN  CONNECTION  WITH  THE  — 

Delaware  and   Hudson   Railroad. 


The  distance  between  New  York  and  Paul  Smith's  is  67  Miles 
sliorter  than  by  any  other  route.    It  is  the  only  line  to 

CHAZY,      GHATEAUGAY    AND     SARANAC 
LAKES  AND  LAKE  PLACID. 

Only  Eight  Mile  Stage  Ride,  Saranac   Lake  to   Lake  Placid. 

Drawing  Room  Cars  on  all  Trains. 

Wfigner  Palace  Sleeping  Cars  on  all  Night  Trains, 

And  Wagner  Drawing  Boom  Cars  on  all  Bay  Trains  between 

NEW    YORK    AND    PLATTSBURGH. 


Tickets,  Sleeping  and  Drawing  Room  Car 

Accommodations,  and  Baggage 

Checked  from  the  Prominent  Hotels. 


A.  L.  INMAN, 

Genl.  Manager. 


M.  L.  FRENCH,  Supt., 

Plattsburgh,  N.  Y. 


241 


UPPER  CHATEAUGAY  LAKE-ln  the  Adirondacks. 

OLIVER  TOUNa,  Proprietor,    -     -    Merrill,  Clinton  County,  N.  Y 

HOUSE  OPEN  SUMMER  AND  WINTER. 

DEER,  Bear.  Foxes,  Squirrels  and  Game  Birds  ;  Speckled  Trout,  Salmon  Trout, 
Land-locked  &ilmon,  California  Trout,  Graylirg  and  White  Fish  are  caught 
here.  Post  and  Teiee;raph  Office  in  the  house.  Base  Ball  and  Tennis  grounds. 
Good  Livery,  Boats  and  euppliep. 

RATES  :    $10  to  $14  per  week.    Discount  for  small  ehildren. 

Upper  Chateaugay  Lake. 

Open  June  1 5th  to  October. 

RATES:    $3  per  day;   $14  to  $17.50  per  week.    Special  rates  for  families. 

J.   W.   HUTTON,  Prop'r. 


HeiiiffiJIiBKllillimiieEl  Upper  Chatoaugay  Lake. 

^is  Pure  air  and  water.  No  malaria.  Boating,  bathing.  Trout  fishing  a  specialty. 
Native  game,  including  Bear  and  Deer,  killed  by  guests  of  the  house.  BOARD:  per 
day,  $1.50.  Per  week,  $8.00  to  $10.00.  Guides  and  boats  at  reasonable  rates.  Spec- 
ial advantages  offered  for  TROUT  FISHING  in  July  and  August. 

Address,        R.  M.  SHUTTS,  Merrill,  Clinton  County,  N.  T. 

RAINBOW    LAKE     HOTEL, 

ADIRONDACKS. 

J.  M.  WARDNER,  Prop.       P.  O.  Rainbow,  N.  Y. 

T&e  Best  HuEling,  Boating  and  FisMng  Bronnils  to  tie  foBDd  in  the  Adirondacis. 

RECENT  ADDITIONS  and  IMPROVEMENTS.  House  new  and  commodious. 
Post  office  and  telegraph  office  iu  the  house.  Mails  daily.  Carriages  connect 
with  all  trains  both  ways.  Parties  leaving  New  York  at  7:30  p  m.  arrive  at  Rainbow 
in  time  for  dinner  the  following  day .  A  bountiful  supply  of  fresh  eggs,  milk  and 
vegetables  from  Rainbow  farm.  Board  per  day,  $2.50;  per  week,  $10.00  to  $15  00. 
Rainbow  Lake  abounds  in  the  finest  trout  and  affords  the  best  trolling  and  fly  fish- 
ing. It  has  been  restocked  with  800.000  trout  the  last  5  years.  The  largest  lake  trout 
on  record  was  caught  here— wt.  52  lbs.  Boats,  guides  and  supplies  for  parties  camp- 
ing out  Boating  parties  start  within  50  feet  of  the  house  and  have  uninterrupted  sail- 
ing through  numerous  lakes  for  over  12  miles.  This  is  noted  feeding  ground  for  deer. 

CRYSTAL  SPRING  HOUSE,  BloomiDgdale,  Essex  Co..  N.  Y. 

Pleasant  drives  all  about.  Good  fishing.  CRYSTAL  SPKINQ  WATER,  as  pure  as  can  be 
found  in  the  Adirondacks,  supplies  the  house.  RATES  for  board,  $2.50  per  day,  $10.00  to 
$15  00  per  week.  Reduction  made  to  familes.  1>^  miles  from  station,  fare  25  cents.  The 
best  of  barns  for  guests'  horses  at  liberal  rates.  WINTER  BOARDERS  SOLICITED. 

M.  L.  BALDWIN,  Prop'r.  Bloomingdale.  N.  Y. 


242 


HOTEL  AMPERSAND  IN  WINTER. 


The  JleW  ph\  J^mpei'^and 

OPEN  THE  ENTIRE  YEAR. 


Adirondacks . 


Lower  aranac  Lake, 

, — 5j^. 

p.  0.  ADDRESS, 

Ampersand,  Kra.n.k:lin  Co.,  N.  Y. 

One  and  a  quarter  miles  from  Saranac  Lake  Station,  Chateaugay  Railroad. 
Tally-ho  Coach  meets  all  trains.  Fifteen  hours  from  New  York,  via  New  York 
Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  or  Hudson  River  steamers.  During  the  past 
year  a  large  extension  has  been  added  to  the  hotel  also  an  annex  building,  especial- 
ly for  young  men.  The  entire  house  is  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  with  ^as. 
Electric  Bells,  Elevator,  bath  room  on  each  floor  and  private  bath  rooms  adjoining 
large  front  rooms.     Open  fire-places  in  all  public  rooms  and  large  bedrooms. 

Cuisine  and  service  of  highest  standard  of  excellence,  Farm  in  connection  with 
hotel.    Especial  inducements  for  young  people.    Tennis  Court,  Base-Ball  Field,  etc. 

T3ra,33LS±©32L-bs    S^.OO   j^gjc   cia3r. 

Diagram  of  rooms  and  illustrated  book  free  on  application.  Other  information 
cheerfully  given.  Lake  Steamer  lands  at  hotel  dock,  also  connections  made  by 
Stage,  Boat  and  Rail  for  all  resorts. 

Trout  Fishing  from  May  i.  to  Sept.  15 

Deer  Huntinf  from  August  15.  to  Nov.  i. 

Fox  and  Hare  shooting  during  Winter  Months. 

General  Store  in  hotel,  Boats,  Guides,  Fishing  tackle.  Camp  outfits  and  supplies 
furnished. 

EATON  &  YOUNG,  Managers. 


243 

S ARAN  AC  LAKE  HOUSE, 

Saranac  Lake,  Adirondack  Mountains,  New  York. 
AN  UNSURPASSED  SUMMER  RESORT  FOR  SPORTSMEN  if  FAMILIES. 

Situated  on  the  east  shore  of  the  lovely  "  Lower  Saraiiac  Lake,"  at  an  elevation 
of  2,000  feet  above  sea  level.  Deer,  the  trout,  wild  duck  and  other  fjame  are  plen- 
tiful, furnishing^  a  constant  succession  of  sports  from  May  to  November. 

The  hotel  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious  in  the  Adirondacks  ;  nearly 
surrounded  by  a  broad  piazza,  with  1,000  feet  of  promenade  ;  has  accommodations 
for  250  guests. 

ROOMS  LARGE  AND  WELL  VENTILATED. 

The  table  is  the  best  in  the  mountains,  and  has  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season — 
as  good  as  the  best  at  Saratoga.     Trout  and  Venison  at  all  times. 

THE  LOCATION  AND  CLIMATE 

is  such  that  it  is  highly  recommended  by  eminent  physicians  for  those  suffering 
from  lung  and  pulmonary  diseases,  etc.     Malaria  and  hay  fever  are  unknown. 
Telegraph,  Post  Office,  Boats  and  Livery  connected  with  house. 

FIRST-CLASS  IN  ALL  RESPECTS. 
For  terms  and  further  particulars,  address, 

D.  J.  GILLIGAN,  Proprietor, 
H.  H.  TOUSLEY,  CLERK.  Saranac  Lake,  N.  Y. 


I70  •  ^Igor^qdirp/' 


(FORMERLY  ALEXANDER'S,) 

ADIRONDACK    MOUNTAINS. 


Located  distant  from  Chateaugay  Railroad  Station  and  Village 
of  Saranac  Lake  one  and  a  half  miles,  on  an  eminence  above  the 
Low^er  Saranac  Lake,  and  commanding  a  most  superb  view  of 
Mountains,  Woods  and  Water. 

THK  IDEAL  IVIOUNTAIN  RESORT, 

and  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  the  Adirondacks. 
Extensive  amusement  grounds,  including  a  good  dirt  Tennis  Court, 
etc.,  in  connection  with  the  house.  Good  walks.  First-class  Livery. 
Safe  Boating.     Cuisine  and  service  the  best. 

Rates  from  $13  to  $25  per  week;  $3  to  $4  per  day. 


Telegraph  and  Poet  Oflice  address : 
SARANAC  LAKE,  N.  Y. 


JOHN  HARDING,  Proprietor. 

Late  of  Eaton  &  Harding,  Hotel  Ampersand. 


244 


5ARANAe»INN 

UPPER   SARANAC   LAKE. 

Post  Office  Address,  SARANAC  INN,  Franklin  Co.,  N.  Y. 


THE  COUNTRY  OF  FISH  AND  GAME 

AND  HEALTHFUL  RECREATION. 


TERMS  AT  THE   INN,       -       -       $3.50  Per  Day. 

Special   Rates   t>y   tine    AVeelc. 


Trout  Kislning  from  May  ist  to  September  15th. 

Deer  Hiinting  from  August  15th  to  November  ist. 

Boats,  Guides,  Fishing  Tackle,  Supplies  and  Camp  outfits  furnish- 
ed at  the  house.  Correspondence  solicited.  Circulars  and  Maps 
sent  on  application. 

D.    W.    RIDDLE,    Manager. 


W^WBEEK  II0D6E, 


Adirondacks. 


The  new  house  on  upper  Saranac  Lake.    Open  from  May  1st  to  October  15th.     For 
further  information  please  address 

T.   EDMUND    KRUMBHOLZ,    Manager, 

Telegraph  and  Post  Office.  WAWBEEK^  N.  Y. 

McCOY'S  RUSTIC  UOPG^, 

UPPER    SARANAC    LAKE. 

Fourteen  miles  by  water  from  Saranac  Station  on  Chateaugay  Railroad.  Daily 
mails.     SuPHRB  Fishing  and  Hunting. 

Rates,  Si3.50  per  Day;  iSlO  to  *14  per  Week.  For  Season  Rates 
apply  at  Office. 

Open  May  ist  to  October  20th.  Guides,  Boats  and  Hunting  and  Fishing 
Supplies  furnished.  Pleasant  walks.  Good  drives.  Telegraph  communications 
within  twenty  minutes  walk  of  the  house. 

Post  Office  address,  Sakanac  Lake.  £.   R.  McCOY,  PROPRIETOR. 

HI  A  \;t/  AXHA     HnilSLP      stony  Creek  Ponds,  Adiron. 
ir\YV/\l     Iin     IIV/UOL»  dacks.      On  tlie  celebrated 

Indian  Carry  between  the  Upper  Saranac  and  Raquette  waters.  Newly  furnished 
and  surroundings  beautified.  Will  be  kept  in  first-class  manner.  We  will  make  every 
effort  to  please  the  sporting  people.  Deer  seen  almost  daily  from  the  house.  Abundance 
of  trout  in  the  pond  and  brooks  within  thirty  rods  of  the  door. 

CBC-A_S.    "W-A-ItlDZSrEI?,,    3Pa?OI537let;OX'- 


245 

CHILDWOLD  RARK  HOUSE, 

AND  COTTAGES, 
Lake  Miassawepie,    Ctiilciwolci  Parle. 

Is  an  exceeding-ly  attractive  Game  and  Fish,  Preserve  charmingly 
located  in  the  Wilderness  of  the  Adirondacks. 

The  Park  consists  of  upwards  of  five  thousand  acres,  embracing  Lake  Mas- 
sawepie  and  a  group  of  fine,  charming,  mountain  lakelets. 

THE  CHILDWOLD  PARK  HOUSE  was  erected  in  1889  by  the  owners  of 
the  Childwold  Estate.  It  is  located  in  a  fine  grove  of  majestic  forest  trees, 
between  two  of  the  Park  Lakes  and  commands  an  uninterrupted  view  of 
Lake  Massawepie.  The  House  is  thoroughly  constructed,  pleasantly  and 
conveniently  arranged,  and  admirably  adapted  to  promote  the  comforts 
and  heatlh  of  its  guests.  The  table  will  be  supplied  with  the  best  the  N.  Y. 
and  Boston  markets  afford. 

The  hunting  and  fishing  is  excellent.  Canoes  and  experienced  guides 
can  be  procured  at  the  hotel. 

The  soil  is  of  a  gravelly  nature  and  readily  absorbs  moisture.  The  lakes 
are  peculiarly  free  from 'fogs.     Malaria  and  Hay  Fever  is  unknown. 

Dr.  J.  A.  Thessell,  of  Boston,  occupies  a  lodge  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
hotel,  and  may  be  summoned  at  any  time  should  the  services  of  a  skillful 
physician  be  required. 

Childwold  Park  House  is  reached  from  BOSTON,  via  Central  Vermont 
R.  R.  From  NEW  YORK,  via  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  R.  R.  R.  WAGNER  CARS  FROM 
BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK  TO  CHILDWOLD  STATION.  Also  reached  from 
PLATTSBURG,  via  Chateaugay  R.  R.  and  Saranac  Lakes. 

Terms,  $3.00  per  day.    Special  Rates  by  week  or  season. 

Send  for  illustrated   book.  Daily  Mail,  and  Telegraph  at  hotel. 

WM.  F.  INCOLD,  MANAGER,         -         -         CHILDWOLD,  N.  Y. 

IPOlSriD    "VIE-V7"    HOTJSE, 

GALR,   N.  Y. 

The  Hotel  will  be  abundantly  supplied  from  the  adjoining  farm  with  milk, 
cream,  fresh  eggs,  berries  and  game  in  their  season,  and  vegetables. 

Every  effort  will  be  made  to  insure  the  comfort  and  welfare  of  .quests. 

The  Hunting  and  Fishing  is  the  very  best.  Catamovint  Pond  is  directly 
opposite  the  house.  Boats  and  competent  guides  can  be  had  at  all  times. 
Livery  in  connection  with  the  hotel.     Accomodations  for  100  guests. 

Terms.  S3. 00  per  day  :   jSS.OO  to  .*13.00  per  week. 
Special  rates  for  the  season.  Address  E.  P.  GALE,  Prop.,  Gale,  N.  Y. 

RAILROAD    FACILITIES. 
The   Pond  View  House  is  six  miles  by  stage  from  Childwold  Station,  North- 
ern Adirondack  Railroad.     PULLMAN  CARS  BOSTON  TO  CHILDWOLD 
STATION.     WAGNER  CARS  NEW  YORK  TO  CHILDWOLD  STATION. 

CRANBERRY     LAKE    HOUSE, 

1,600  feet  above  the  sea.    Best  Sporting  Grounds  in  the  Adirondacks.    Guides, 
boats,  etc.,  furnished.     Board,  ^10.50  per  week  ;    S'^.OO  per  day. 

MRS.  E.  J.  BISHOP,  Russell,  N.  Y. 

FENTON  HOUSE,  "^^"^1e^.?^co.„t,.. 

I  More  Deer  and  Trout  than  in  anj'  other  part  of  the  Adriondacks ! 

Cottages  and  ample  playgrounds  make  it  a  most  desirable  place  for  families 

during  the  summer.     As  a  health  resort  it  is  conceded  to  be  at  the  head. 

BOARD,  $2.00   PER    day;    $9.00   TO  $10.00   PER    WEEK. 

Address,  CHARLES  TENTON,  Number  Foui-.  Lewis  Co.,  N.  Y. 

WlD£IWRr»"PP'^     R»qnette  River,  south  end  of  Sweeney  Carry.    Daily  mall  and  ex- 
Uf-J^UJuBUEir*  p,      press  to  Saranac  Lake.    Splendid  river   fishing.     BOARD,  $10.00 

per  w^ek ;  $2.00  per  day.    Open  May  1.  to  November  1.     Eight   miles  from  Tupper  Lake 

Station,  N.  A.  H.  R.    P.  O.  Address,     OlilVER  TKOMBLEE,  Wawbeek,  N.  Y. 


246 

JOHN     F.     HATCH,  ^  ^  ^  PROPRIETOR. 

P.  O.  Address,  Tupper  Lake,  Franklin  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Recommendation.—"  The  best  location  for  sport  and  as  healthful  as  any 
in  the  Adirondacks." — Dr.  Alfred  L.  Loomis. 

This  House  is  located  at  the  head  of  Big  Tupper  Lake,  at  an  elevation  of 
1,5T5  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  in  tlie  very  center  of  the  Lake  Region,  to  which  Dr. 
Loorais  in  his  lecture  before  the  Medical  Society  of  the  State  of  New  York,  called 
the  attention  of  the  profession  (Vide  Med.  Rec,  Vol.  15,  No.  17,  April  26,  1879).  It 
is  spacious  and  eleganL  containing  accommodations  for  one  hundred  guests.  It 
contains  large  bedrooms,  ranging  in  size  fiom  11x12  to  15x17  feet,  and  has  open  fire- 
places in  the  parlor  and  principal  bedrooms,  Cold  veater  is  brought  into  all  the  floors 
of  the  house  from  a  mountain  spring. 

ADVANTAGES  TO  GUESTS. 

Located  at  the  entrance  of  the  GREAT  MUD  LAKE  COUNTRY,  this  house 
offers  advantages  to  sportsmen  who  desire  to  camp  near  their  families,  and  yet  be 
in  the  part  of  the  Adirondacks  where  deer  and  trout  are  found  in  abundance. 

To  those  seeking  rest  and  recreation  it  offers  with  its  large,  airy  and  well  ven- 
tilated rooms,  superior  location  and  benefits,  there  being  fine  lake  trout  fishing  in 
Tupper's  Lake,  and  brook  trout  fishing  in  the  adjacent  lakes  and  rivers,  no  fatiguing 
journey  is  required  for  a  day's  sport. 

The  temperature  in  the  hottest  months  seldom  rises  above  80  degrees.  No 
mosquitoes.    The  house  is  supplied  with  vegetables  fresh  from  the  h&^el  garden. 

Kates  ^3  00  per  day  ;  $14  to  $31  per  week.  Special  for  a  longer 
term. 

In  connection  with  the  hotel-is  a  supply  and  provision  store  atocked  with  the 
best  goods  the  New  York  market  affords.  Campers  can  rely  upon  getting  at  all 
times,  in  tliis  store,  everything  needed  in  the  shape  of  provisions  and  groceries, 
both  staple  and  fancy.  The  proprietor  buys  his  goods  of  first  hands  in  New  York 
and  will  sell  at  New  York  retail  prices  with  freight  only  added. 

Daily  mail  after  June  Ist.  Steamer  runs  to  connect  with  trains  on  the  North- 
ern Adirondack  Railroad,  Tupper  Lake  Station.  Through  Cars  from  Grand 
Central  Station,  Nevr  York. 

REDSIDE   OAMP,     East  Side  Tupper  Lake. 

Hunting  and  fishing  resort.   Rates  $1.50  per  day  ;  $10  to  $12  per  week.     Steamer 
daily  to  Tupper  Lake  Station.    Through  trains  to  New  York  $12.70.     Post  office  in 

the  house.      Address      MARTIN    MOODY,  Proprietor, 

3yCoo<3-3r.     'Ficeb-r^  T^Ixjzl    Co.,  3Sr.  "X". 

T^OOSE     Ri:^ER    HOTEL. 

Western  gateway  to  the  Adirondacks.    On  the  way   to  The  Fulton  Chain  of 
Lakes.    Accommodation  for  30  guests.   Board  $2  per  day  ;  $7  to  $10  per  week. 
C    M.    BARRETT,    Proprietor, 

Address  for  Special  Conveyance  into  the  Woods. 

•••••  CiLLIP     CRAGr.   • 

Situated  on  Big  Moose  Lake,  one  of  the  finest  bodies  of  water  in  the  Adiron- 
dacks.   Accommodations  for  20  sportsmen.   Prices  $2  per  day  ;  $10.50  per  week. 

P.  O.  Address,  Old  Forge,  Herkimer  Co.,  N.  Y. 


247 


|5s.E)IRONE)A(S;KS 


MII^I^OR  hJlW  10TE&, 


Aceonf|rTLOc]atioax^  for  4^©  €yuex^fA. 

ALLz  IMPROVEMENTS. 
ELECTRIC  LIGHT,  STEAM  HEAT. 
ELEVATOR,  TENNIS,  BOWLING, 
BILLIARDS,  BAND,P^^ORCHESTRA. 

^are*^,fat:of4per4a^;  f  i^.dO  fo  f  28  per  coecjC. 
Address,  C.  E.  IVIARTIN, 


248 

LAKE   PLACID,   Essex  Co.,  N.   Y. 

Overlooks  Lake  Placid  and  Mirror  Lake.  Large  rooms.  Sanitary  arrangements 
perfect.  Pare  spring  water.  Telegraph  in  hotel.  Stages  meet  all  trains  on  Chateau- 
gay  R.R.  at Saranac Lake.   Terms,  $:j.00perday.    $14.00to$lT.50perweek. 

HENRY    ALLEN,    Proprietor. 

•0iiA£HITE  +  F^KOE  •••  INN,  ^ 

£'ornierly  the  "Wayside."  Change  in  Management. 

THE  ADIRONDACK   COMPANYy  Oivners. 

Capacity  100.  Rates  $3.00  per  day.  $18  OOperweek.  Open  June  IStn  to  November. 
Mrs.  M.  S.  ELMENDORF,  {Late  of  the  Lake  Placid  House.)  Manager. 

JP.  O.  Address,  LAKE  PLACID,  N,  Y. 

UNDER-OLIFF     :      <V 

^t> — :    ON  LAKE  PLACID. 

The  private  camp  of  a  physician  enlarged  by  additional  cottages  for  families  and  ; 
single  parties,  a  genera)  assembly  room,  and  a  central  dining  hall,f  or  those  seeking  the  ■ 
benefits  of  mountain  air.     It  is  in  no  sense  a  sanitarium,  and  every  appearance  of  in-  ' 
validisnaig^carefully  avoided.    Accommodations  for  50  guests.    The  Attractions 
are:   The  sUiiauvc  benefits  of  (omfortable  camp-life  with  a  simple,  generous,  care- 
fully served  table;  quiet  and  rest  in  surpassing  mountain-lake  scenery;  wild  woods, 
boating  and  fishing.  Lake  Placid  village,  with  hotels,  stores,  telegraph  and  post 
office,  is  four  miles  across  the  lake,  accessible  by  steam  and  row  boat. 

Until  July    1st,  I  After  July    1st, 

HARTFORD.    CONN.  |         LAKE    PLACID,    N.    Y. 


Replacing  the  "Beede  House,"         ^  -^  V 

(Destroyed  by  fire  March  3d,  1890.)  Formerly  the  "Widow  Beede's." 

> '  '  - 

BEEDES,   ESSEX  COUNTY,   N,    Y. 


The  above  well  known  hotel  properties  have  been  purchased  by  the  Keen  Heights  | 
Hotel  Co.,  and  will  be  conducted  under  one  management. 

ST.  HUBERT'S  INN,  which  was  built  in  1890,  has  replaced  the  former  Beede 
Hpuse. 

'  Spacious  rooms,  open  fire-places,  steam  heat,  pure  water,  and  perfect  drainage  are 
all  provided  for.  Cottage  opens  June  Ist.  Innopens  July  1st.  Address  for  rooms  and 
terms.  f> 

E,  H.  HATES,  Manager,  KEENE  HEIGHTS  HOTEL  CO., 

.rr;     I   ■  Beedes,  Essex  Co.,  N.  T.\ 


249 

TKHKiA^US    HOUSE, 

KFKNK  VALLKY,  NKU    YOKK. 

The  best  of  beds,  tlie  best  of  tare.  Telegraph  ofhce  at  post  otVice,  close  by. 

RATES,  $2  per  day  ;  $<  to  $12  per  week.     Open  June  ist  to  October  15th. 
Dining  room  enlarged.     New  Cottage  connpcted  with  the  house.     Five  Cottages 
to  Let.    Accommodaiions  for  75  guests. 

GEO.  EGGLEFIELO,  PROPRIETOR- 


TOv\\%      WTOVTO    ^W^\^      VA\\„.,v.,v     XaOToSC  ^v\1^        ^1^%^         ;,.„..v       ',..;,,    •^ViN^TO'.^       ..tT,         ,.,..,vwc    igs 

Keene  Valley,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y.     MARTIN  BAHLER,  A.M.,  Prop. 

RATES,  $[o.oo  per  week  ;  $2.00  per  day  ;  full  price  for  children  over  5  years. 
No  transients.  No  Hebrews.  Accomodations  for  about  35  Guests.  Open  from 
ist  of  July. 

The  most  magnificent  mountain  scenery  of  the  Adirondacks  is  found  in  and 
around  Keene  Valley.  Flume  Cottage  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  grassy  ridge  at 
the  entrance  of  "Washbond's  Flume."  Special  attention  paid  to  home  comforts, 
and  unusual  facilities  afforded  for  visiting  points  of  interest.  Tabic  first-class, 
with  an  abundance  of  fresh  vegetables.  Running'^Water^from'the'high  mountains 
in  the  rear  of  the  premises.    Conveyance  sent  to  meet  parties  at  Westport. 

Daily  mail.  Telegraph  and  express.  Send  for  descriptive  circular  with  full 
particulars.  Address,  until  June  2oth,^SUMMIT,  N.  J. 

MAPLE  GROVE  MT.  HOUSE, 

HENRY  WASHBOND,  Proprietor. 

Is  situated  in  the  central  part  of  Keene  Valley,  on  high  ground,  commanding  a 
view  of  "  Giant  "  and  "  Noon  Mark,"  two  cf  the  principal  mountains  of  the  Valley. 
In  the  rear  of  the  house  is  a  delightful  maple  grove,  affording  good  shade.  It  is 
only  a  short  distance  from  church,  post  office  and  telegraph  office.  The  water  is 
pure.     Can  accommodate  about  40. 

Terms,  $1.50  per  day;  S8  to  $10  per  week. 
A  good  livery  connected  with  the  house.     Address 

HENRY  WASHBOND,  Keene  Valley,  N.  Y. 

G.  F.  MARVIN,  Photographer, 

and  Publisher  of 

ADIRONDACK  AND  AU  SABLE  CHASM  VIEWS. 
KEESKVILLE,    N.  Y. 

PORTRAITS  in  all  the  popular  styles  and  sizes  made  with  greatest  care. 
All  FIELD  WORK,  VIEWS  and  INTERIORS  promptly  executed. 
"Will  be  in  KEENE  VALLEY,  from  July  21st  to  August  1st. 
BEEDE'S,  from  August  1st  to  August  ISth. 

LAKE  PLACID,  from  August  15tli  to  Sept,  5th. 

SARANAC  LAKE,  from  Sept.  5th  to  Oct,  1st,  1891. 
All  orders  promptly  filled  and  work  done  in  any  part  of  Adriondack  region, 
orrespondence  solicited. 


250 


ADIRONDACK  LODGE/ 


CLEAR  LAKE.  NORTH  ELBA. 
The  Largest  and  Handsomest  LOG  Building  in  the  United  States, 

AND 

The  Most  Comfortable  House  in  the 


I 


i 


ADIRONDACK    REGION. 

Tastefully  built,  in  rustic  st>  le  throughout,  it  is  thoroughly 
comfortable,  and  fitted  with 


EVERY  MODERN  IMPROVEMENT. 


i 


IX)CATED 

In  the  Midst  of  the  Various  Attractions  of  the  Adirondack  Mountain!^ 

TRAILS  RADIATE 

From  the  Lodge  directly  to  the  following  points : 

THE  INDIAN  PASS, 

AVALANCHE  PASS. 

MOUNT  MARCY, 

MOUNT  McINTYRE. 

MOUNT  JO  (or  "The  Bear"). 
MOUNT  GOLDEN. 

SOUTH  MEADOW  BASIN! 

All  of  these  trails' have  been  carefully  cut  by  experienced; 
guides,  expressly  for  the  Lodge,  and  others  will  be  added  1 
during  the  Summer. 

The  Lodge  is  the  headquarters  for  mountain  climbing  is 
the  Adirondacks. 

The  grounds  of  the  Lodge  comprise  an  area  of  1280  acres 

For  particulars,  address, 

HENRY    VAN    HOEVENBERGH, 

Proprietor  Adirondack  Lodge, 

Oascadeville  P.  0.,  Essex  Co.,  N.  X 

Or  N.  T.  Agency,  106  aud  108  Liberty  St.,  New  York  €itv. 


251 

FURNISHED 

CAMPS  AND  COTTAGES, 

Cottage  and  Camp  Sites.  In  the  Adlrondacks. 
Apply  to  NOBLE  &  FFROUSON.  33  Pine  St..  N.  Y. 

Wayside  InnTanf  Collages,  ^^-^T"'"^ 

Located  at  the  confluence  o£  *'«  f  ^^nda^a  and  Hud     „  River.   ;„_^FBET 

s?ad"°^;s?s\nSr¥i|.s|iftr|^^^^^^^ 

dations;  cuisme  unexcelled,  fine  drives.    *3-5o  ^^    king.  MarLager. 
rates  for  June  and  September.  B.  C.  KiiN<-^.  ivxan^K 

_^-3^  FOOT  OF  ^ 

Hunting  and  Fishing  Res'^I^I!>Di^ place  for  Schroon  Lake  pas- 
sen""err\^ates  |..oo%r  day  il^T-OO  .o^-c«  Per^w^ek.^|pec.al 

for  the  season.  J^^  i^roprietor- 

p.  O.  Address,  Pottersville,  N.  Y.  '^      t- 


^     "  ""■"   "     r^  T     •  Riverside  to  Schroon  Lake.    Eugene 


w  side  on  arrival  of  all  trains  from  the 

i^''«T5l4so^rprt1S»lS°e.,,  carriage,  or! Special  ri.^:of  any  Wad,  c. 
secSJcMChoa  reasonable  terms  by  aadressing  at  Pottersyille. 


252 

SCHROON  LAKE. 

HIS  POPULAR  HOUSE  which  contains 
first-class  accommodations  for  200  guests, 
will  be  re-opened  June  15th.  Hotel 
grounds  extend  to  the  Lake  on  two  sides, 
and  are  ornamented  with  trees,  shrubbery, 
summer  houses,  etc.  Delightful  Location, 
Fine  Scenery,  High  Elevation  and  Pure 
Water,  Finest  Boating,  Bathing,  Driving, 
Fishing  and  Hunting  in  the  Adirondacks. 
Carriage,  Boat,  Express  and  Telegraph 
Office  in  the  Hotel.     Good  Stables. 

The  pleasure  of  rural  and  forest  life  are 
here  combined  with  modern  conveniences  and 
social  privileges  in  a  greater  degree  than  in 
any  other  place  in  Northern  New  York. 
Terms,  transient  per  day,  $3.00  to  $3.50  ;  by 
the  week,  $12.50  to  $25.  Special  arrange- 
ments for  prolonged  stay. 

Send  for  circulars  and  diagram. 

L.  R.  Sl  E.  D.  LOCKE,  Proprietors. 


-A_3Dii2,onsriD-£i.CK:s. 


and  15  Cottagse 

locatjeci 


TKVLOR    HOUSE 

on  Schroon  Lake,  aiiiong  the  pines.  Capacity  175  Guests.  Electric  Lights.  Pure  Spring 
water,  all  sanitary  arrangements  complete.  Amusements*  Music  fur  parlor  hops, 
BiUard  Parlor,  Bowling  Alley,  Lawn  Tennis  and  Croquet  grounds.  Rates,  $2.50  to  $3.00  per 
day;  $14 to  $21  per  week.   For  full  particulars  and  illustrated  circular,  address 

C.  F.  TAYLOR    A  SON,   Prop's. 

J*.  Q.  TATLOR'S-on-SCHItOON,  Warren  Co.,  N.  T. 

Grove    Point     House, 

Schroon  Lake. — Terms  $2  per  day;  $8  to  $12  per  week.  Pleasantly  situ- 
ated in  a  shady  grove,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  half  a  mile  from  the 
village.  Steamer  Effingham  will  land  you  at  the  house.  The  rooms  are 
large  and  well  furnished.  Table  one  of  the  leading  features.  Send  for 
circular  and  cut  of  house.     Capacity  75  guests. 

W.  A.  MACKENZIE,  Jr,  Proprietor, 


^  LKKe    HOUSE,  t^ 

Schroon  Lake,  Essex  Co.,  N.  Y.    Open  from  June  20th  to 

Oct.  ist.  Terms  per  day  $2.25  ;  adults,  per  week  $10.50  to  $14;  children, 
and  nurses  $7.00.  E.  E.  RIDDELL,  Proprietor.  (Formerly  of  the  Riddel 
House.  Luzerne.  Warren  Co.,  N.  Y.)  BEST  OF  REFERENCES  ON 
APPLICATION.     Special  rates'to  excursionists. 


253 

CHESTERTOWN,         -  -  N.Y. 

Open   all  the  Year. 

High  dry  land.  Pure  air.  Mountain  Spring  Water.  Fine  Drives 
and  best  bass  fishing  in  the  Adirondacks.  A  First-class  Livery  con- 
nected.    Terms,  $2  per  day  ;   $10  to  $12  per  week. 

V(iIcK*Hocfc*HolQl 

AND    COTTAGES, 

ON    SCHROON    LAKE. 

Opens  June  20tli,  '91.  GEO.  OEOIL,  Owner  and  Prop'r. 

Adirondack,  Warren  Co.,  N.  Y. 


rm 


Season  of  Ninety-one.    Capacity  100.    Board  $2  to  $2.50 

per  day.     $10  to  $14  per  week.    Open  June  1st. 

Table  first-class.    New  piano.   New  parlor 

furniture.  Complete  renovation  of 

house  and   grounds. 

Lake  side  completely  shaded  by  stately  elms  and  maples 

and  park  enclosed  by  a  magnificent  hedge. 

Address  MAUEIOE  O'OONNOE,  Proprietor,   Schroon   Lake,  N.  Y. 


HOOT" 

Scliroon   River,      N.  Y. 

Nine  miles  north  of  Schroon  Lake. 

Under  new  management.   Repaired  and  refurnished.    Accomodations 

for  75  guests.     Unsurpassed  for  hunting  and  fishing.    Dry  sandy 

soil.   Air   salubrious  and  invigorating.      Scenery  beautiful. 

Daily  coach  from  Port  Henry  from  June  20th  to  Sep.  8th. 

A.CARSON,   Prop'r-,  P.  0.  Solu'oon  Eiver,  N.  Y. 


BLUE  MOUHTAIH  HOUSE 

.s  situated  at  the  head  of  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  on  an  elevation  of  200  feet  above 
*ts  surface,  and  140  rdos  distant. 

The  view  of  the  surrounding  lakes  and  mountains  from  this  point  is  unequaled 
in  this  section. 

Blue  mountain  is  3,824  feet  above  tide  water;  an  excellent  path  leads  to  its  sum- 
mit, from  which  sixteen  lakes  can  be  distinctly  seen. 

Tine  Hunting  and  Fishing  is  Kaccellen.!. 

A  line  of  steamers  make  daily  trips  through  Eagle,  Utowana  and  Raquette 
Lakes  to  Fort  Lake  Carry,  making  the  most  delightful  excursion  imaginable. 

The  climate  is  invigorating  and  owing  to  its  elevation  and  bracing  air  the  place 
is  vrell  adapted  to  those  aflflicted  with  Hay  Fever,  as  many  can  testify. 
Sufferers  here  find  almost  instant  relief  on  arrival,  while  those  who  come  in  ad- 
vance of  its  anticipated  attack,  are  not  troubled  with  it  at  all  during  their  stay. 

Passengers  by  Adirondack  sleeper  leave  Grand  Central  Depot,  N.  Y.  at  7.30?.  m. 
arrive  here  next  noon.  Leave  Saratoga  Springs  by  morning  train,  arrive  for 
supper. 

TERMS  :  $10  to  $15  per  week,  $2  to  $&,  50  per  day. 

Open  fkom  June  15th  to  October  ist.    All  communications  should  be  addressed  to 

D.  H.  HALL, 

Blue  IVIountain.  Lake, 

TELEGRAPH  IN  HOUSE.  Hamilton  County,  N.  Y. 

J^"Be  careful  and  address  Blue  Mountain  House,  instead  of  Blue  Moun- 
tain Lake  House. 


JOHN  G.  HOLLAND,  Proprietor, 
Blue  Nlountain  Lake,  Hamilton  Co.,  N.  Y, 
Blue    IVIountain    Lake    is   thie  Cem  of  the  Adirondack 
Lakes,  and  is  located  in  the  Heart  of  the  Great  Wild- 
erness. 1 ,800  feet  above  tide. 

The  New  Blue  Mountain  Lake  House  is  a  large,  durable  structure,  located  on  a 
dry,  s  andy  elevation  50  feet  above  the  Lake,  and  with  it«  outlying  Cottages, 
furnishes  ample  accommodations  for  over  three  hundred  guests.  Main  Parlpj" 
80x40  feet ;  Dining  Room,  125x40  feet. 

Everything  new,  plain,  cleanly,  comfortable  and  home-like.  First-class  hair 
mattresses  and  woven  wire  springs  in  every  sleeping  room. 

Pure  IVIountain  Spring  Water,  Perfect  Drainage,  Absolute 
Freedom  from  Malaria.  Positively  proof  against  all  forms 
of  Hay  Fever. 

The  Surrounding  scenery  is  a  poem  of  beauty,  and  the  pure,  dry,  invigorating 
atmosphere  is  Nature's  life-giving  tonic.  The  breezes  blow  over  pine,  spruce  and 
other  gummy  and  resinous  trees,  which  statistics  prove  conducive  to  health  and 
longevity.  Table  first-class  in  every  respect.  Vegetables  and  milk  fresh  from  the 
hotel  farm. 

Open,  from  April  to  Novenat>er. 

RATES,    $3,00   Per   Day.    Per   Week,  according  to  location   of  rooms. 

Daily  Mails.  Telegraph  office  in  the  Hotel.  Large  Fire-places  in  Parlor  and 
Office.    Steamers  leave  Blue  Mountain  Lake  House  dock  daily  for  all  points. 


255 


B^o^  ®  /Hoorit^^ri     ^i^ 


^1 K  N  o 1^ 


5TEnnD0nT  •  Line. 


o  o  o  o 


tJ.  G.  THOMPSON,  Superinlendenl 

$i)-Pue  Mouafain  Tsafee. 


"THE  ANTLERS"  and  "THE  HEMLOCKS." 

SEASON  OF   1891. 

Under  the  Management  of  C.  H.  BENNETT. 
The  ANTLERS  opens  May  1.     The  HEMLOCKS,  July  1. 

The  Antlers  is  centraly  located  on  one  of  the  finest  points  on  the  Lake,  and 
comands  beautiful  Mountain  Views  of  the  Surrounding  Country.  It  is  built 
on  the  colonization  plan,  having  in  connection  several  Cottages  that  can  be 
rented  entire  or  at  the  usual  room  rates.  The  table  is  the  Best  that  can  be 
found  in  the  woods.  Boats  and  Guides  in  connection  with  House.  Wines 
served  at  table  only. 
For  further  Information  Address,  C.  H.  BENNETT, 

Raquette  Lake,  Hamilton  Co.,  N.  T. 

THE  '•  HEMLOCKS,"  Formerly  Kaquette  Lake  Hotel. 

The  Hemlocks  is  situated  Long  Point  and  is  centrally  located  between 
the  South  and  East  Bays  of  the  Lake.  The  Hotel  is  situated  on  a  Bluff  and 
commands  one  of  the  most  picturesque  views  of  the  Lake.  It  has  been  newly 
furnished  throughout  in  the  best  possible  manner.  Telegraph  and  Post 
Oflfice  within  two  minutes  of  Hotel.  There  are  also  several  Cottages  in  con- 
nection with  the  House  that  can  be  rented  for  the  season.  Boats  and  Guides 
in  connection  with  the  House.     Wine  served  at  table  only. 

For  further  Information  Address,  C.  H.  BENNETT, 

Raquette  Lake,  Hamilton  Co.,  N.  T. 


BRISHTSIBE  0N  RAQaETTE 


Raquette  Lake,        '        "        Hamilton  Co.,  N.  Y. 

J.  6.  n.  BI^YERE,    PROPRIETO]^. 

This  house  which  has  been  enlarged  will  be  open  June  i.  Terms  $12  to 
S18  per  week.  $2  to  $2.50  per  day.  The  house  is  built  on  the  South  Shore  of 
Indian  Point  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  Mountain  scenery. 


NEWYORK  AND  ALBANY. 

STEAMEKS   LEAVE  RETURNING  LEATE 

Desbrosses  St.  Pier,  N.Y.  8.40  A.M.      Hamilton  St.,  Albany,  8.30  A.  M. 
22d  "     "       "   9.00    " 

SEE  THAT  YOUR  TICKETS  READ  VIA 

•'DAY  LINE  STEAMERS." 

Through  Tickets  Sold  at  our  Offices  to  all  Points  and  Baggage  Checked  to  Destination. 


I 


257 

^liiFon^acR  Forestry. 

A  number  of  gentlemen  have  secured,  and  will  preserve  intact,  a  tract  of 
nearly  4,000  Acres  of  unkroken  forest  on  both  shores  of 

THE  HEART  OF  THE  ADIRONDACKS. 

with  miles  of  beautiful  shores,  sandy  beaches,  bold  points,  sheltered  coves 
and  the  magnificent  forest  stretching  back  of  all. 

Limited  number  of  Choice  Camp  and  Villa  Sites  in  10  acre  lots  for  sale, 
cl  uding  Game  and  forest  privileges  of  the  entire  tract,  to  unexceptionable 
parties,  at  $250  a  lot.    (A  few  of  the  best  held  at  $500.) 

Any  of  these  lots  may  be  leased  for  three  or  five  years  at  $25  or  $50  and 
taxes  per  year,  with  privilege  of  purchasing  at  above  prices  at  any  time 
during  lease. 

Also,  Forked  Pine  Camp  to  let  for  season.  Roomy,  rustic  lodge,  with 
big  fire-place.  Kitchen  and  dining  room  seperate.  Landing,  Beach,  Spring 
—everything  complete.     Applj'  to  Trustees, 

HAZARD  STEVENS,  85  Devonshire  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 
OSCAR  B.  IRELAND,  Springfield  Mass. 
GEORGE  E.  TERRY,  Waterbury,  Conn. 

Or,  M    R.   SUTTON,    Agent, 

LONG    LAKE,  HAMILTON  COUNTY.  N.  Y. 

at 


iad 

Pond  and  Mountain,  to  which  a  good  trail  will  be  opened  the  coming  season. 
Owl's  Head  Pond  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  grounds  for  trout  fishing  in 
the  Adirondacks.  Buttermilk  Falls  is  only  2  miles  distant,  where  good  bait 
fishing  is  to  be  had.  Plenty  of  pickerel  is  also  to  be  found  here,  and  good 
deer,  partridge  and  duck  shootmg  in  their  season.  Guides,  boats  and  car- 
riages to  and  from  trains  at  North  Creek  furnished  on  application.  Boats' 
per  day,  S2.50;  per  week,  $10  to  $14.  Dinner,  75  cents  :  Supper  or  Breakfast 
50  cents.    Open  May  i ;  closes  Nov,  15.  DATID  HELMS,  Prop. 

E/-JLK.E     HQ  O^E  J   ^^^^  I.AKE,  Hamilton  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Boats,  Guides  and  Supplies  furnished. 
BOARD,  $2  per  Bay ;  $10  to  $12  per  Week.    Special  Sates  for  the  Season. 

MRS.  C.  H.  KELLOGG,  Proprietor. 

raque:tt^  fauus  hoteu 

Is  on  the  direct  routes  from  Paul  Smith's  and  the  Saranac  Lakes  to  Long 
Forked,  Raquette  and  Blue  Mountain  Lakes.  This  Section  is  noted  for  ex- 
cellent Hunting  and  Fishing.  Guides,  Boats,  Supplies,  etc.,  furnished  on 
application. 

Board,  $10  to  $12  per  week  :  $2  per  day.     Correspondence  solicited. 
See  page  113.  Address,  W3I.  McCIiELIiAND,  Wawbeek. 


258 
NORTH  CHEEK,  Wiiireii  Co.,  N.  Y,  JOUiN  MclNERNY,  Prop. 

Main  Street,  three  minutes'  walk  from  Adirondack  Company's  Depot. 
Refitted  and  furnished  throughout  in  first-class  style. 

BOARE  $6  to  $10  m  weel(;  meals  50c.    Triiit  and  Game  in  their  season. 

N.  B--A  first  Class  Livery  attached  to  the  House.  Parties  wishing 
private  conveyances  to  the  wilderness,  at  reasonable  prices  can  be  accomo- 
dated. 

Address,  JOHN  McINERNY,  North  Creek,  N.  Y. 

NORTH   RIVER   HOTEL 

is  on  the  Hudson  River,  5  miles  from  the  terminus  of  the  Adirondack  Rail- 
road, at  North  Creek,  on  the 

Direct  road  to  Bine  Mountam  Lal^e,  and  is  tlie  regular  dining  place  for  passengers 

going  and  coming.     TELEGRAPH  connection  with  the  Western  Union. 

Stages  and  patent  Canopy-top  Buckboards  carry  guests  to  and  from  all 
trains. 

MEALS  75  Cts  :  $2.50  per  day;  $1  0  TO  $1  5  per  week. 

Buckboards  run  to  this  house  on  arrival  of  afternoon  traint  at  North  Creek 
and  can  be  had  for  Blue  Mountain  Lake  next  morning. 

W.  H.  ROBLEE,  Prop.  North  River  Hotel.  F.O  No  til  Eiver.Warren  Co- 


^j), 


JDEIjIGriaiTIFTJXj 


^m  mm 


f) 


in  the  south  part  of  Hamilton  county,  thirty  miles  from  Northville,  the  terminus  of  the 
Fonda.  .Johnstown.  Gloversville  and  Northville  Kailroad.  These  lakes  are  about  four  and 
five  miles  long  respectively,  connecting  with  various  other  small  lakes,  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  the  rtnest  natural  scenery,  and  is  a  famous  resort  for  pleasure  seekers. 

The  Lake  Pleasant  Inn  is  situated  between  Lake  Pleasant  and  Round  Lake,  and  com- 
mands an  uninterrupted  view  for  miles  around.  It  has  recently  been  improved,  and  newly 
furnished.    How  boats,  Game  of  all  kinds  and  good  fishing  aboiind.  Trusty  guides  furnished. 

Stage  fare  from  Northville  S2. 00.  Parties  will  be  met  with  conveyance  at  the  station,  if 
desired.  Terms  :— $2.00  to  $2.50  per  day  ;  $9.00  to  $12.00  per  week.  Special  rates  for  parties 
and  families.  Cottage  Sites  on  Kound  Lake  for  sale.  A  new  cottage  adjoining  the  inn 
accommodates  15.    Lawn  Tennis  and  Croquet  Gi  O  inds. 

J.  D.  MOKLEY,  Proprietor.  FRED.  H.  SMITH,  Manager. 

SAGEVILLK,   HAMILTON  CO,,  N.  Y. 

Telegraph  and  Post  Office  in  the  House. 

ARE  YOU  GOING  TO  THE  ADIRONDACKS  OR  ELSWHERE? 

And  do  yon  wifh  to  receive  your  papers  and  magazines  regularly  ? 

Our  periodical  department  is  perfect  equipped.  Subscribe  through  us,  and  you 
will  be  sure  to  receive  your  papers  and  magazines  promptly.  You  can,  moreover, 
be  sure,  that  in  patronizing  us,  however  often  you  may  change  your  abode  during 
the  summer  months,  your  papers  will  always  reach  you  regularly  and  in  good  order. 
We  make  no  extra  charges.  *  *  * 

Do  you  require  American  or  Foreign  guide  books?  We  always  have  in  stock  a 
complete  assortment  of  Baedeker's,  Murray's,  and  all  the  continental  guide  books, 
as  well  as  of  those  for  the  United  'States,  Canada,  and  South  America.  Lists  flent 
upon  application.    " 

Send  10  cents  in  stamps  for  a  sample  copy  of  Book  Chat,  the  brightest  literary 
magazine  published.    $1.00per  year.  BRENTANO'S, 

Also  of:  5  Union  Square,  New  York. 

CHICAGO-804-206  Wabash  Ave.,       WASHINGTON-1015  Pennsylvania  Ave. 

PARIS-17  Avenue  de  I'Opera.  LONDON-43  Strand,  W.  C. 


250 

FFiotograpMc  Outfits, 

The  old  establislifd  Photopiapliic  Stock  House  and  the  nearest  to  plaecs  described  in  this 
book,  offers  tourists  and  travelers  the  laiprest  assortment  of  jjoods  to  select  from  to  be  found 
any  where  in  the  state  outside  of  New  York  City.  Orders  by  mail  tilled  piomptly  on  day  of 
receipt,  and  the  excellent  express  connections  insure  immediate  delivery.  Best  material 
and  lowest  prices. 

I  keep  a  dark  room  where  plates  can  be  changed  and  developed,  and  all  preparations 
made  for  a  journey.  All  the  standard  plates,  developers,  and  preparations  used,  always  on 
hand. 

J.     N.     IVIcDONNAlvD, 


Opposite  Union  Depot  Arcade, 


U  BROADWAY,   ALBANY,  N.  Y. 


WEBSTER'S    INTERNATIONAL 


JUST 


Published  by  G.  &  C. 


PUBLISHED— ENTIRELY    NEW. 

The  Authentic  "Unabridged,"  comprising  ig- 
sues  of  1864,  '79  and  '84,  (still  copyrighted)  is 
now  Thoroughly  KKVISED  and  ENLARGED, 
and  as  a  distinguishing  title,  bears  the  name  of 

WEBSTER'S  International  Dictionary. 

Editorial  work  upon  this  revision  has  been  in 
active  progress  over  10  Years,  not  less  than  100 
paid  editorial  laborers  having  been  engaged 
upon  it,  and  not  less  than  !8i300,000  having  been 
expended  before  the  first  copy  was  printed. 

Critical  examination  is  invited.    Get  the  Best* 

A  Grand  Investment  for  every  Family  and  School. 

Sold  by  all  Booksellers.    Illustrated  Pannphlet  free. 
MEKRIAM  &  CO.,  Springfield,  Mass.,  U.S.  A. 


You  will  enjoy  a  very  pleasant  trip  by  lak.ng  a  sail   up   or  down    the   Hudson 
River  on  the  Pupular  Steamers 


ii 


DREW 


»» 


or 


ii 


DEAN    RICHMOND," 


-OP     THl 


PEOPLE'S    EVENING    LINE. 

You  will  enjoy  all  the  comforts  of  j^ood  living.  Tables  supplied  with  the  best  the 
markets  afford.  The  excellence  of  the  cuisine  is  a  feature  of  this  line.  This  is  the 
tourist's  and  pleasure  seeker's  route  as  well  as  the  business  man's.  A  steamer 
leaves  Albany  for  New  York  (every  week  day)  8  p.  m.  Leaves  New  York  for 
Albany   (every  week  dav)  from  Pier  41,  N.  R.  foot  Canal  Street,  6  p.m. 

F^are,   ^1.50.     Round  Trip,  ^3.50. 

M.    B.    WATERS,  C.  P.  A. 

Map  of  the  J^dii'ondact;  Wildeifne??. 

REVISED    ANNUALLY. 

FOREST  AND  STB EAM.—"  it  is  the  most  complete  map  of 
the  Adirondack  region  ever  published,  and  is  just  what  is  wanted  by  a  party 
intending  to  camp  out."     SHOOTING     AND     FISHING.— 

"State  officials  consult  it  and  the  Fish  Commissioners  depend  upon  it  for  use 
of  the  State  Game  Protectors." 

Pocket  Edition  on  Map- Bond  Paper,  Post  Paid  $1.00. 
Address  S.  R.  STODDARD,  Glens  Falls,  N.  Y 


26o 


TKe  F^od^k  C?^mQri^. 


''  You  press  the  hit- 
ton,  we  do  the  rest,'' 

(Or  yon  cau  do  it  yourself.) 

Eight  Styles 
and  Sizes, 

ALL  LOADED  WITH 

Transparent  Films. 


A  system  which  admits  of  the  practice  of  photography 
without  the  least  knowledge  of  the  art  is  presented  by  the 
"Kodak." 

Anyone  can  use  this  camera.  The  operation  of  making 
a  picture  consists  simply  of  pressing  a  button.  No  dark 
room  or  chemicals  are  necessary.  One  hundred  pictures 
are  made  without  reloading. 

By  the  aid  of  the  "Kodak"  a  complete  illustrated 
record  of  every  day  incidents^  a  picturesque  diary  of  every 
trip,  beautiful  bits  of  lanscape  and  hundreds  of  interesting 
scenes  may  be  readily  obtained. 

A  handsome  leather  carrying  case  with  shoulder  strap  is 
a  part  of  each  outfit,  and  the  operator  is  thus  enabled  to 
carry  about  and  use  the  Kodak  as  easily  as  though  it  were 
a  field  glass. 

THE  EASTMAN  COMPANY, 

Roclnester,  N.  Y. 

For  Sale  by  all  Photo.  Stock  Dealers.  Send  for  Catalogue. 


26l 

THE 


WINDSOR  HOTER, 


Saratoga,  R.  ^/. 

A  quiet  hotel  of  the  best  class.  Late  dinners.  Music. 
White  servants  exclusively.  ^Yi]l  remain  open  until 
October  1st.     Send  for  illustrated  pamphlet  to 

^WILLARD  LKSTER,  IVtanager. 

CLARENDON    HOTEL, 

This  aristocratic  hotel  opens  June  25th,  1891.  Coolest  house,  highest  grounds. 
Special  rates  to  early  comers.    Send  for  circular. 

AVERILL  <&  GREGORY,  Owners  and  Proprietors. 

DR.  S.  E.  STRONG'S  SANITARIITM, 

AND   SELECT    FAMILY    HOTEL. 

A  popular  summer  resort.  Open  all  the  year.  Table  and  appointments  first  class.  All  th« 
best  remedial  appliances.  NEW  IN  1891,  Reception  Hall,  Hydaulic  Elevator,  Sun  Parlor 
and  Promenade  on  the  roof.       Illustrated  circulars  free  on  application. 

"Q^^/TIF  LIFE" 

Twelve  Photo-Gravures  of  Camp  and  Hunting  Scenes  in  the 

Adirondackg,  by  S.  R.  Stoddard,  size  10x13  inches.     Price  $3.00, 

post  paid. 

Address  S.  R.  STODDARD,  Glens  Falls,  N.  Y, 


262 


Sportsmen  Never 

Enlarge 

the 

Truth 

More  enthusiastically  than  when  telling  of  the  antlers  the  old 
buck  carried  off,  or  of  the  big  fish  that  got  away.  But  about  a 
thing  in  hand  exaggeration  is  less  easy;  it  speaks  for  itself — for 
just  what  it  is. 


(the  weekly  journal  of  fishing  and  shooting) 

Stands  that  test.  We  cannot  begin  to  tell  you  all  its  good  points. 
It  speaks  for  itself.  You  will  like  its  breezy  sketches  of  sport 
with  rod  and  reel  and  dog  and  gun;  its  stories  of  camp  life,  its 
accounts  of  tramp  and  cruise.  Ask  your  dealer  for  the  current 
number  or  send  to  us.  Sample  copies,  lo  cents.  Per  year,  %\. 
Adirondack  Number,  June  iS,  iSgi.    Price  loc.    Dontmissit. 

We  will  send  free  (on  mention  of  this  advt.)  our  illustrated  Catalogue  of 
best  Bjoks  on  Shooting,  Fishing,  Camping,  Yachting,  Canoeing, 
Boat  Building,  Dog  Training,  Natural  History,  Outdoor  Life  and 
Field  Sports.     Address 

rOREST  AND  STREAM  PUB.  00.,  318  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


~2Q^^||| 


MAPS,    BOOKS   AND   PHOTOGRAPHS, 

PUBLISHED  BY  S.  R.  STODDARD,  GLENS  FALLS,   N.  Y. 
GUIDE  BOOKS. 

The  Adirondacks,  Illustrated.— 10 mo., 272  pages,  pseudo- 
cloth  cover,  25  cents.  f  a    %  t- 

Albant  Evening  Journal.—"  Routes,  fares  to  diflferent  points, 
time-tables,  maps,  guides,  and  whatever  else  the  traveler  is  mos? 
concerned  in  knowing,  are  treated  clearly  and  intelligently  "  New 
lOKK  Times.—"  A  book  that  may  be  read  through  from  beginnino- 
to  end  at  any  time,  and  be  found  full  of  interesting  readineniatter  '" 
Troy  Times.-"  A  delightful  book,  well  spiced  with  anecdote  and 
a i venture." 

Saratog-a,  Lake  Georg-e  and  Lake  Champlain,  historical 
and  descriptive  lb  mo.,  200  pages,  pseudo-cloth  cover,  25  cents 
Contains  colored  map  three  feet  long,  outline  cuts  of  mountaias. 
islands,  etc.,  as  seen  from  the  passing  steamer. 

MAPS.-Map  of  the  Adirondack  Wilderness.  Pocket 
edition  on  map-bond  paper,  in  board  cover  $1  00 

Forest  &  Strkam.— "  It  is  the  most  complete  map  of  the  Adiron- 
dack  region  ever  published,  and  is  just  what  is  wanted  by  a  imrtv 
intending  to  camp  out.''  Shooting  and  Fishing.-"  State  officials 
consult  It  and  the  Fish  Commissioners  depend  upon  it  for  use  of 
the  State  Game  Protectors." 

Map  of  Lake  G-eorg-e.  Scale  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Pocket 
edition  on  map-bond  paper,  board  cover  50  cents. 

Map  of  Lake  Champlain.  Scale  SJ^  miles  to  an  inch,  with 
smaller  mapsof  the  Richelieu  River,  and  routes  and  distances  to  im- 
portant points.  Pocket  edition  on  map-bond  paper, board  cover,  SOcts. 
BOOKS  OF  PICTURES. 

Lake  Gaorg-e.  Twelve  photogravure  plates  10x12  inches 
comprising  over  50  choice  bits  of  Lake  George  scenery.  Bound  in 
torchon  board,  with  illuminated  title,  $1  50.  Ainone-  thfi 
Mountains  of  the  Adirondacks.-Ten  plates.  SamI  style 
and  size  as  Lake  George,  $r  50.  Through  the  Lake  Country 
of  the  Adirondacks.— Same  as  above,  $150.  The  Hudson 
A  ^o^'i.^^°^,3^^  Source  to  the  Sea —Same  as  above  $1.50 
^3^-,^^°J®  Chasm.— Photogravure,  twelve  pages  of  pictures 
5>^s,  inches.     Illuminated  title.     In  mailing  box,  50  cents. 

SOUVENIRS  OF  THE  NORTH.  (Price  75  cents  each, 
contain  troiu  eighteen  to  thirty  representative  views  of  sections  in- 
dicated by  their  titles,  reproduced  by  the  Photo-Gravure  Company 
Size5V2XMnclie8.)  Saratoga,  Lake  Georg-e,  Bkie  Moun- 
tain Lake,  Baquette  Lake,  Long-  Lake,  Tupper  Lake 
Region,  Luz9i'ne  and  Schroon  Lake,  Wild  Lakes  of 
the  Adirondacks,  (Au  Sable  Lakes,  Tear-of-the-clouds,  Ava- 
lanche Golden,  Sandford.  Henderson,  etc.)  Elizabethtown 
^^  Fl^u  ®  o^a^ley,  North  Elba  and  beyond,  Lake 
Placid,  The  Saranac  Lakes,  Winter  at  Saranac  Lake. 
U-iens  i'aUs,  Howes  Cave.     In  mailing  box  75  cents  each. 

PHOTOGRAPHS  of  the  Adirondacks,  Lake  George,  Lake 
Champlain,  the  Hudson  River,  West  Point  Military  Academy, 
Ho^es  Cave,  Mount  Desert  Island,  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  etc.  Prices 
per  d02  Crystal  Stereos,  $2  00  ;  Boudoir  Views  (5x8)  $3.60  :  Im- 
perial Views  (7x9)  S6  00  ;  10x14  Views,  $1.00  each  :  16x20  Views 
(unmounted)  in  mailing  tubes,  $2  00  each. 

I^a-iitern  Slides.  Any  subject  in  my  collection  of  views  at  50 
cents  each.  Transparencies  in  nickel  frames  5x8  inches,  SI. 25  : 
8x10  inches,  $2.50.  >  -tp  •  '^  • 

All  goods  above  (except  lantern  slides  and  transparencies)  sent 
postpaid  on  receipt  of  price. 

Address.  S.  R.  STODDARD     glens  Falls,  N.  Y. 


MAP    OF^    THE 


ADIipNDfiGK  V^ILDEI^NESS, 

BY  S.  R.   STODDARD. 
[Light  portion  shows  Hudson  River  drainage.] 


Size  25x31  inrhes.  Scale  4  mles  to  an  inch.  Colored  in  counties. 
On  imp-bond  pap  r  in  cloth  covor  for  carrjinj^in  the  pocket.  $1.00. 
Oi  heavy  plate  papor  for  friminj;,  ii  mailing  tube  to  prevent 
creasing,  $1.00,  post  paid  on  receipt  of  price. 

'    8.  R.  STODDAED,  PubUsher,  Glens  FaUs,  N.  T. 


t 


1 

«».■<■ 


BU<,ER  &  TAYLOR. -''•'^»^*  ^ 
C'.wa.-y  of  vuur  maps,  n,^  v/ell  as  the  reliability  of 
vuur  df*.cvipi;5o:-i<jj  vre  have  i^erfinnallj''  ksstedf  acd 
la  nut  ov-'ti  exjMRenoi  re'^y  imohcitly  upcD  eheni." 

CKAHLES  T.  DILLINGKAM.- 
"  'Vo-z   most  popular,   accuisxe,  aa4  ap.rviceable 

Br<  Z  NTANO  BROS,  — ''  PracticaUf 
tVic  OTilf  Giiirfe  to  the  Adirondack  Re^an  that 
can  be  rel'ed  upon  as  hemg  entirely  trusfcwofthy 
a»1  up  to  daU";," 

CTJPPLES.  UPHAM  &  CO-**  Just 

!/K!  bocks  re--:-uired," 

J,  W,  BURDrCK.  Oeft'!  P<u-^,  Agt. 
/'.  <V  //,  .9,A\ — "Are  rcco^ized  a^  standard 

iiutti'viTv  wpou  ri)ai;t>5rs  of  w-hich  they  treat," 

71iE  UNION  NEWS  COr-""Th(^ 
O'J.hi  Dn;-;  tjja-it  c-ovf.r  t'nfc  s«cUoas  indicated  in  a 

sai ji;fii< !  ';>:v  ruamier,  ^' 

THE  ALBANY  NEWS  CO.-" We 
cuviii,:i^"  vheFft  the  l>est." 

TH03.  COOK  &  SON.-"  We  know 
of  no  bpjttfifr  or  snoiv  convcrieDi  bfx>ks  published 
for  these  r«sofrl4.'' 

,  FOREST    AND    STREAM.- '*It 
i';  the  m^-nt  ccmpbte  and  .eliable  work  of  the 

NEV*-'  VOHK  TIMES, -"it  h  a. 
bock  that  may  b:;;  read  through  from  beg-miaing 
to  end  a?  any  t;)Ti?,  ,?iid  b€  found  full  oi  mt&rest- 
ing  r^i^djngk'talter.'^ 

TROY  TIMES. --"It  i"  a  delightful 
bouCv,,  v.=fcll  $pf,ced  wUh  anecdote  atsd  adve»i;ure." 

ALBANY  EVENING  ^OXJR- 
NAL™*"''' ^•-''-'tttes,  f&2i's  to  difff-rent  poiats, 
timfi-Uoles^  rarps,  i^uides,  sjsd  <*'hate^er  eke  the 
(traveler  is  i».o:;Uoncernedin.knowfri,g,  ar«  treated 
ck^d>^aad  m^$Uiij:eatly." 


O- 


s^r( 


f^/ 


f