(logo)
(navigation image)
Home American Libraries | Canadian Libraries | Project Gutenberg | Children's Library | Biodiversity Heritage Library | Additional Collections | Universal Library

Search: Advanced Search

Anonymous User (login or join us)Upload
See other formats

Full text of "Advance Japan: a nation thoroughly in earnest"

"x 



3 1822 00209 3151 






V 





3 1822 00209 3151 



THF UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 

UN.VERSITY oTcALlFORNIA, SAN DIEGO 

LA JOLLA. CALIFORNIA 







V 




H.I.M. THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN. 
(Born Nov. 3, 1852 ; acceded Feb. 13, 1867 ; crowned Oct. 13, 1868. 



ADVANCE JAPAN: 

A NATION THOROUGHLY IN EARNEST. 






BY 

J. MORRIS, 

FORMERLY OF THE IMPERIAL PUBLIC WORKS DEPARTMENT, TOKIO ; 
AUTHOR OF "WAR IN KOREA," "A SAMURAl's DAUGHTER,'' ETC., ETC. 



Illustrations by R. Jsayama, Military Artist of the Buzen Clan, 
Southern Japan, and from photographs. 



, 



SECOND EDITION. REVISED AND CORRECTED. 

^HITISH INSTITUTE -w-ABtftT EDUCATION 

NATIONAL APPEAL FOR BOOKS. 
PROPERTY OF THE UNEMPLOYED GNTIr. 

LONDON : 

W. H. ALLEN & CO., LIMITED, 

13, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL, S.W. 

PUBLISHERS TO THK INDIA OFFlCli. 
1896. 

(All tights resented.) 



MALCOMSON AND CO., LIMITED, 

PRINTERS, 
LONDON AND REDHILL. 



To His IMPERIAL MAJESTY, 
THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN, 

UNDER WHOSE 

ENLIGHTENED AND BENEVOLENT RULE THE EMPIRE HAS ADVANCED 
TO A POSITION IN THE FRONT RANK AMONG THE 

POWERS OF THE WORLD, 

AND HAS 

ENGRAFTED THE ARTS AND SCIENCES OF THE WEST 

UPON THAT 

OLDER CIVILISATION OF THE ORIENT 

WHICH FOR MANY CENTURIES 
HAD DISTINGUISHED THE TERRITORY OF 

DAI NI-HON, 
tSbio oofume is most respectfuffj? i 

BY HIS MAJESTY'S FORMER SERVANT IN THE 

DEPARTMENT OF PUBLIC WORK S > 

THE AUTHOR. 



\ 
FIRST LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 



His EXCELLENCY T. KATO, Japanese Ambassador to Great Britain. 

SIR EDWIN ARNOLD, K.C.I.E., C.S.I. 

G. HAYASHI, Esq., Japanese Consul-General in London. 

WM. ANDERSON, Esq., M.R.C.S., Chairman of the Japan Society. 

Y. NAKAI, Esq., Manager of the Yokohama Specie Bank. 

A. DIOSY, Esq., Vice-Chairman of the Japan Society. 

R. TAYUI, Esq., Chancellor of the Japanese Consulate-General. 



DESIGN ON COVER. 



The Japanese National flags support the ribbon and 
medal awarded by the Emperor for valottr, which takes 
the place in Japan of our Victoria Cross. There are 
many recipients of it in connection with the late Chinese 
War. 

The five-pointed Star and Cherry-blossom are respec- 
tively the badges of the Japanese Army and Navy. 

The Chrysanthemum is the Official Crest of Japan, 
and the adjoining leaf and flower of the Kiri tree form 
the private badge of the Japanese Emperor. 



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



A LTHOUGH only a few months have elapsed 
./A. since the first edition was sent to press, the 
prediction in the last chapter that Japan would make 
still more rapid progress after the conclusion of peace 
with China has already, in part, been verified. The 
export of manufactured silk from Japanese ports in 
the first half of the present year, for example, was 
equal to that of any preceding twelve months. In 
this expansion of trade we have proof of the extra- 
ordinary elasticity of the country's resources, for few 
nations have withstood the strain of a great war with 
less dislocation of commerce. 

The pacification of Formosa was an undertaking 
which demanded no trifling expenditure in men and 
material, owing to the almost impregnable positions 
held by the rebels in the interior fastnesses ; but 
the campaign approaches its termination. Mining 
and agriculture will henceforth receive adequate at- 
tention, and the education of the savages in civilised 
usages will follow closely on their subjugation. 



x PREFACE. 

In order that the Governor-General of the island 
may be always in touch with the Central Authority 
at the capital, a submarine telegraph line is to be 
laid immediately, which will join Formosa to the 
other divisions of the Empire. A specially-fitted 
steamer is being constructed at Renfrew to the 
order of the Japanese Government, for the purpose 
of submerging this cable, and executing other such 
works on the coasts as occasion may arise. The 
natural advantages of Formosa prove to surpass its 
captors' expectations, for in addition to immense 
forests of camphor-trees, the mineral wealth of the 
island is very great, and coal, more especially, is 
abundant. 

In the settlement of Japan's new possession em- 
ployment may even be found for the inconvenient 
energies of the SosJii class, and in this way a most 
harassing problem may be satisfactorily solved. 

J. M. 
London, November, 1895, 



PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. 



THE contest just concluded between Japan and 
China had the effect of directing public atten- 
tion to the serious side of the Japanese character. A 
people capable of waging warfare so systematically and 
successfully cannot fail to occupy a most prominent 
position in the twentieth century, now so near its dawn. 
But though they have shown themselves to be well 
equipped for the fray, the tendency is distinctly towards 
the re-establishment of peaceful intercourse with China, 
on that footing of perfect equality which was unattain- 
able so long as the people of the Middle Kingdom held 
in derision the efforts of the Japanese nation to excel in 
the arts of the Occident. 

Now that the supremacy of Japan in the matter of 
armaments has been acknowledged by her ancient rival, 
the way has been paved for a reconciliation which shall 
have wtdespreading effects not only upon the future of 
the two nations more immediately concerned, but upon 
the policy of the Great Powers of the West. Japan has 



xii PREFACE. 

taken up a position from which she cannot recede, and, 
without being aggressive, she will strive not only to 
maintain that position but to continually improve it. 
The ambition she cherishes will not attain its fruition 
until she has constituted herself as powerful a force on 
the eastern flank of Asia as is the United Kingdom on 
the north-west edge of Europe. In no way has she 
sought more diligently to strengthen herself than in the 
formation of a potent fleet, and the adequate training 
of her sailors. She has added to her resources by the 
capture of her enemy's vessels, as did the British in 
days of old, and she has devoted large sums, in the 
current estimates, to the supply of gigantic line-of- 
battle ships which will be in no way inferior to those 
of highly-organised European navies. 

The acquisition of Formosa gives Japan a vastly 
improved strategical position in Far Eastern Waters, 
and though she has chosen to relinquish her claim to 
Liao-Tung, she has benefited in no inconsiderable de- 
gree by her magnanimous renunciation of her right to 
an increased indemnity. Such treatment of a fallen foe 
will raise Japan immeasurably in the world's esteem, 
and is in harmony with the repeated utterances of the 
Japanese Emperor disclaiming any intention of inflict- 
ing needless privations upon the Chines-j people at 
1 irge, with whom his Majesty had no quarrel. Such 
generosity will not be lost upon those at the head of 
affairs in Peking, and the actual outcome of the mili- 
tary struggle may not improbably be the revival of 



PREFACE. xiii 

those cordial relations between the two Powers of the 
Orient which existed in past centuries. Though the 
conditions are reversed, and the former pupil has be- 
come the tutor, it will be none the less advantageous 
to China in the end that the practical result of the war 
has been to convince her Government of the utter folly 
of longer rejecting the lessons of the age. 

In the last chapter of this book I have sought to 
indicate the direction in which a mutual understand- 
ing between the recent combatants may bring about 
important events bearing upon the future trade of 
European countries. The way to China now lies 
through Japan, for unquestionably Japan has made a 
deeper and more lasting impression upon her neigh- 
bour than had previously been made by any other 
nation. The blow has been all the more severely felt 
by .China in that the Power which inflicted it was one 
which she had previously affected to hold in contempt. 
The consciousness that the Japanese Emperor has 
shown moderation in his hour of triumph will not 
tend to lessen the humiliation of the vanquished, but 
it may render a return to intimate friendship not only 
possible, but comparatively speedy of accomplishment. 
The form which its outward expression may take is a 
matter in which the Western Powers are keenly inter- 
ested, but it is likewise one in which they may not be 
enlightened for some time to come. Negotiations will 
proceed very leisurely, now that peace has been secured, 
and the outer circle of nations may have to judge of 



xiv PREFACE. 

their tenour mainly by results. The future conceals 
nothing more calculated to amaze the casual observer 
than the effects which are certain to follow in the train 
of re-established amity in the East. Everyone admits 
that the opening-up of China to general intercourse 
would be fraught with stupendous consequences, though 
few care to pursue the subject so far as to ascertain in 
what way the change may be effected. 

In this necessarily imperfect work I have sought to 
draw attention to some of those characteristics of the 
Japanese and their undertakings which have tended to 
make of them at this hour a nation to be honoured. 
Their ancient history has been briefly sketched with a 
view of showing that they always had in them the 
materials of a great and powerful people. In many 
respects it has been found impossible, within ordinary 
limits, to enumerate even a tithe of the notable qualities 
and features of their daily existence. Only the salient 
points have been touched upon, and attention has been 
invited rather to the practical side of the national dis- 
position than to the exquisite productions of their fine 
arts, or to the innate poetry of their nature. Those who 
would pursue these branches of study have a wealth of 
material at hand in the admirable works of Sir Edwin 
Arnold, Mr. Basil Hall Chamberlain, Mr. William 
Anderson, Mr. Josiah Conder, and many other writers 
eminently qualified to deal with such subjects effectively. 
Upon ethnological points the massive product of Dr. 
Rein's investigations will be found to satisfy, in volume 



PREFACE. xv 

form, every demand which the student may make upon 
it. Personally I have revived my recollections of places 
and incidents, with which I was well acquainted years 
ago, by the perusal of the publications of the late Mr. 
J. R. Black, to whom I have alluded in connection with 
the establishment of newspapers in Japan. I must also 
express my indebtedness to the columns of the Yoko- 
hama Press for some of the earlier history of the settle- 
ment, and to other contemporary works which have 
enabled me to recall to memory associations with which 
I was familiar in a long residence in the Japanese Em- 
pire. My stay in the interior in connection with public 
works gave me uncommon facilities for acquiring a 
knowledge of the habits and ideas of the rustic popula- 
tion, and I was fully prepared to find the raw material 
of the Army, as gathered by conscription, capable of 
being worked up into the splendid force which Japan 
has recently placed in the field, and for the exhibition of 
that dauntless heroism which has marked its achieve- 
ments in Korea and Manchuria. The men went into 
battle singing the praises of their monarch in a verse 
which is venerable for its antiquity as a musical as well 
as a literary composition : 

Kimi go. Yo wa 

Chi yo /', Ya chi yo HI, 

Sazare ishi no 

Iiva wa to narite, 

Koke no musuinude. 

Sir Edwin Arnold has very kindly given me his version 
of this : 



xvi PREFACE. 

THE NATIONAL ANTHEM OF JAPAN. 

May our Lord's dominion last 

Till a thousand years have passed, 
Twice four thousand times o'ertold ! 

Firm as changeless rock, earth-rooted, 

Moss of ages uncomputed 
Grow upon it, green and old ! 

Edivin Arnold. 

I trust that in my endeavour to attract attention to 
those solid qualities of perseverance and determination 
to excel which mark the Japanese people, I shall have 
afforded some inkling of the sturdy mechanical bent 
which has contributed in no small degree to raise them 
to the position they now occupy. The practical phases 
of their character are so interwoven with the romantic 
and poetical that there has been no little danger of the 
distinction being altogether lost to Europeans, who have 
to judge only by what they see of the nation's products. 
Within the past few months the Japanese have appeared 
to many in entirely a new light. To me they have ever 
been an intensely painstaking, hard working, frugal, and 
thoughtful people, imbued with a resolve to succeed in 
whatever they undertake, and with the innate conviction 
that nothing is beyond their powers of attainment. My 
effort to portray them in this character will go far, I 
hope, to secure for me, with the general reader, that 
measure of cordial forbearance in regard to the short- 
comings of my book of which I stand so palpably in 
need. J. M. 

London, May, 1895. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. ADMINISTRATION. 

FACE 

The Emperor and Empress Insignia Cabinet Ministers The Present Parliament 
Pay of Members The Administration in Korea The Leader of the Opposition 
Provincial Assemblies i 

CHAPTER II. THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 

Geographical Position The Mainland Territorial Divisions Tokaido The Peer- 
less Mountain Hakone' Lake The Ex-Shogun's Retreat Biwa Lake Turbulent 
Rivers Area and Population Mountains Harbours Climate 13 

CHAPTER III. NATURAL HISTORY. 

Quadrupeds Birds Fishes Trees Fruits Flowers Vines Cereals Land 
under Cultivation Vegetables The Tea Shrub 49 

CHAPTER IV. DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 

Table Etiquette The Ordinary Bill of Fare Tea-drinking Dress The Household 
Washing Day Girlhood in Japan Study and Play Music Arrangement of 
Flowers 71 

CHAPTER V. EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 

The Shugun Period Jinmu Tennd Buddhism Introduced Early Writings Heroes 
of Old Advent of Christianity Causes which led to the Restoration Kublai 
Khan's Invasion Emigration Prohibited Japanese Wars of the Roses Yoritomo 
True Relation of Shugun to Mikado Tokugawa Regime Dainiio's Revenues ... 91 

CHAPTER VI. THE RESTORATION. 

Foreign Treaties Early Efforts to Trade Prominent Leaders Railways and other 
Public Works Undertaken Compulsory Education Vaccination Cotton Mills ... 122 

CHAPTER VII. EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 

Remonstrances from Satsuma Education The Saga Insurrection Formosa Expedi- 
tion China Alarmed Coast Survey Administration of Justice Relief of the Poor 
Exhibition l6i 



xviii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. PRINCIPAL CITIES or JAPAN. 

PAGE 

Tokio Its Railway Depots The Castle Main Thoroughfares Ueno Park Asa- 
kusa Government Offices Kioto Nara Nagoya Kochi Onomichi Kuma- 
moto 188 

CHAPTER IX. TREATY PORTS. 

Yokohama Kobe-Hiogo Osaka Nagasaki 219 

CHAPTER X. COMMUNICATIONS. 

Roads The Jin-riki-sha Excursion Guilds Cheap Hotels Highways Railways- 
Telegraphs 247 

CHAPTER XI. LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 

Systems of Caligraphy The Press in Japan First Newspaper Illustrated Periodi- 
cals Chinese and Japanese Lexicons Examples of Printing and Engraving ... 288 

CHAPTER XII. -MINES AND MINERALS. 

Gold, Silver, Copper Coal in Abundance Iron, Lead, Tin, and Quicksilver Modern 
Methods Employed Electrical Haulage Wharves at Misumi Coal Production of 
Higo and other Provinces Branch Railways to Mines 309 

CHAPTER XHI.-ARMAMENTS. 

The Organisation of the Forces List of the Fleet, and its Capabilities The Murata 
Rifle Personnel of the Army, and of the Navy Colleges Hospitals The Red 
Cross Brigade Field Ambulances Warships built in Japan 325 

CHAPTER XIV.-WAR WITH CHINA. 

The Campaign against Satsuma in 1876 The War with China 1894-5 Yalu Naval 
Fight Assault and Capture of Ping- Yang and Chiu-lien-chfing Port Arthur Wei- 
hai-Wei The Lessons of the War 33 

CHAPTER XV. COLONISATION AND TRADE. 

The Progress made in Yeso Prospects in Formosa Opening of New Ports to Com- 
merce Facilities for Employment of Foreign Capital Banking and Bank-notes ... 376 

CHAPTER XVI.-THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 

Predictions of 1868 not Verified A Policy of Selection Japan will open China 
Will urge on Railway Enterprise there The Empires have Something in Common 
Railway Profits to Pay War Indemnity Drill-Sergeants for China Japan can 
Supply Arms Her Large Market there Will use her Power Wisely Will Introduce 
Modern Mechanical Arts Holds the Key to China In Earnest 397 

APPENDIX. 

The TSkaido Route The Ko-shiu Kai-do Route The Nakasendo Route (Central 
Mountain Road) The Sanyodo Route The San-in-do Route The Tosando 
( Oshiu- Kai-do) Nan-Kai-do (Island of Shikoku) S;ii-Kai-do (Island of Kiu- 
shin) Hokkaido (Island of Yeso) Population Trade at Ports: 1894 Meteoro- 
logical Observations Cotton-Spinning Mines Posts and Telegraphs Tele- 
phones Electric Lighting Railways in Japan Average Cost of Food, etc., in 
Japan 4 j 3 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1. H. I. M. The Emperor of Japan ... ... Frontispiece. 

2. A Red Cross Hospital 3 

3. Count Mutsu Mune'mitsu ... ... ... 6 

4. General Marquis Saigo Tsugumichi ... 7 

5. H.I.H. Prince Komatsu 8 

6. Provinces and Products (Map) ... ... 15 

7. Railway Train Southward Bound from Tokio ... ... 19 

8. Fujiyama from Hara, on the Tokaido ... ... ... 29 

9. Nagoya Castle ... ... ... ... 36 

10. A Japanese Tea-house ... 39 

11. A Dragon Fly ... ... 48 

12. Carpenter's Tools .. ... ... ... ... ... 59 

13. The Art of Floral Arrangement 63 

14. Harp, Violin, and Guitar 72 

15. An Industrious Sempstress ... 75 

16. Hand-ball 81 

17. Washing Day ... 85 

18. Tobacco-pouch and Pipe-case ... ... 89 

19. A Dragon Fly 90 

20. Precincts of Asakusa Temple ... 97 

21. The Classic Dance ... 101 



xx ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PICK 

22. lyeyasu's Castle and Moat at Tokio 108 

23. Interior of Buddhist Temple 115 

24. The Foreign Office, Tokio ... ... ... ... 131 

25. The Nobles' College, Tokio 137 

26. Imperial College of Engineering ... 143 

27. Medals Awarded at Tokio Exhibition 147 

28. Before the Police Superintendent... ... ... ... 151 

29. The Cruiser Chiyoda ... ... ... 163 

30. Surgeon-General Baron Ishiguro 164 

31. Marshal Count Nodzu Michitsura 171 

32. Admiral Viscount Ito 172 

33. Admiral Kawamura 183 

34. Field-Marshal Marquis Yamagata 185 

35. H. I. H. Prince Arisugawa 186 

36. Shinbashi Railway Station 189 

37. Where Rest the Dead 197 

38. Poetry amid the Cherry-blossoms ... ... ... 205 

39. Homeward from the Picnic ... ... 209 

40. Ministry of Communications ... ... 213 

41. The Specie Bank, Yokohama ... ... ... ... 221 

42. Fujiyama, from Mishima ... 225 

43. Kobe* Municipal Hall ... ... ... 229 

44. A Bridge at Kameido 233 

45. A Japanese-built Torpedo-boat 237 

46. Ama-no-Hashidate', near Miyadzu ... ... ... 241 

47. The Jin-riki-sha 248 

48. Shrine at Nikko 255 

49. Pleasure-boat on the Sumida River 265 

50. Railways in Japan (Map) 267 



ILL USTRA TIONS. xxi 

PAGE 

51. Telegraphs in Japan (Map) 275 

52. Telegraphs at Hamana Inlet 281 

53. Japanese Printing 289 

54. The Japanese Syllabary 295 

55. Early Efforts ... 297 

56. Perusing the Morning Newspaper ... 300 

57. Example of Japanese Cover to Historical Book ... 305 

58. Mining Railway Crossing the Main Line 311 

59. Lighthouses and Harbours 317 

60. Kumamoto Castle 321 

61. Army Department Headquarters ... ... 327 

62. Bringing in the Dead 331 

63. Cruiser Takachiho ... ... ... 333 

64. Captain of Matsushima 334 

65. General Viscount Kawakami 337 

66. Yalu Battle, Stages i, 2 and 3 345 

67. The Gunboat Akagi 348 

68. Yalu Battle, Stages 4 and 5 ... ... ... ... 349 

69. Port Arthur 359 

70. Field-Marshal Marquis Oyama ... ... 361 

71. Admiral Baron Tsuboi 365 

72. General Baron Kodama 367 

73. Wei-hai-Wei Harbour ... 369 

74. Map of Formosa ... 383 

75. Japanese Ten- Yen Bank Note (Face) 393 

76. Japanese Ten-Yen Bank Note (Reverse) 394 

77. Japanese One- Yen Note (Face) 395 

78. Japanese One- Yen Note (Reverse) 396 

79. The Cruiser Yoshino 398 



xxii ILL US TRA 7 IONS. 

80. Chinese Prisoners Guarded by Japanese Infantry 

81. Watching the Attack near Port Arthur 

82. The Cruiser Suma (Built in Japan) 

83. The Cruiser Hashidatt (Built in Japan) 

84. In Honour of the Slain 



PACE 

403 
409 
411 
412 
415 




M 



R. R. ISAYAMA, who is responsible for so many 
of the characteristic Drawings in 

"ADVANCE JAPAN," 



has modestly omitted to indicate his work in the usual 
way. For the information, therefore, of those who wish 
particularly to know which Illustrations are the work of a 
Japanese artist, the following List of Mr. Isayama's Draw- 
ings is added : 



Design on 


Cover. 


No. 38, 


Page 205. 


No. 2, 


Page 3- 


-, 39, 


,, 209. 


8, 


,, 29. 


.. 42, 


,, 225. 


,, ii, 


48. 


H 46, 


., 241. 


,. 13, 


., 63. 


. 55, 


.. 297. 


,. 16, 


81. 


,. 62, 


.. 331- 


i. 19, 


,, 90. 


81, 


,, 409. 


., 21, 


,, 101. 


.. 84, 


., 415. 


,. 28, 


.. 151- 





And the Initial Letters throughout. 



The maps and plans are the work of the Author. 



The PHOTOGRAPHS used are kindly lent by the JAPANESE LEGATION, 
and have for the most part l>een taken this year. 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 




CHAPTER I. 

ADMINISTRATION. 

HE EMPEROR AND EMPRESS. 
-The Emperor Mutsuhito was 
born on the 3rd November, 1852, 
and succeeded his father, Komei 
Tenno, on the I3th February, 1867. 
His coronation took place on 

October I3th, 1868. 

In 1869 he married Haruko, 
daughter of a noble holding high 
rank at the Court of Kioto. She is ordinarily known 
as the Kdgo-saina, and her title, taken in conjunction 
with her own name, may be translated Empress of 
Spring. 

The Emperor is rather tall for his race, standing five 
feet eight inches, of rather dark complexion, but possess- 
ing fine open features and high forehead, his bearing 

B 



2 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

being dignified, and his walk alert and active. The 
general expression of his countenance is benign, though 
shaded at times by a certain solemnity. His consort 
is likewise comparatively tall, being about five feet four 
inches, and possessing the slim figure and oval features 
of the Japanese aristocracy. She is consulted by the 
Emperor very generally in State affairs, to the con- 
sideration of which she brings a cultivated intellect and 
a vast amount of shrewd common-sense. She takes in- 
tense personal interest in the welfare of the women of 
her nation, and is largely occupied in works of charity 
and benevolence. During the war with China she has 
actively supervised the proceedings of the Nursing 
Organisation, of which she is the president, and has 
personally prepared lint and bandages to be sent to the 
field hospitals. 

In the earlier years of his monarchy the Emperor 
had constant trials, due to the insurrections fomented 
by rival factions, through which his most trusted Mini- 
sters were lost to him ; one fell by the sword of the 
assassin, one died a natural death, and in two cases 
insubordination was followed in the end by actual rebel- 
lion. He was still very young when called from the 
seclusion of the Kioto Palace to take an active share in 
the conduct of public affairs, with a realm torn asunder 
by the violence of contending parties and conflicting 
interests. But his earnestness of purpose and steadfast 
solicitude for the ultimate good of his subjects has 
carried him through all difficulties. By the wisdom 





tgm 

* 




ADMINISTRA T1ON. 5 

and practical sagacity which he has displayed at crises 
in the life of the nation, he has won respect, not only 
from his own people, but in countries far afield. If he 
has been loyally supported in his efforts by the counsel 
of able Ministers, it is due to h'is personal selection, 
and not to the mere accident of political supremacy 
that he is surrounded by men of the greatest ability 
and discretion, men who would have been regarded 
under any circumstances as possessing the highest 
qualities of statesmanship and the loftiest patriotism. 
His children died young, and for a time the Throne 
was without a direct heir. 

The. actual significance of the term Mikado is Great 
Place. Other designations of the Emperor are Tenno = 
King of Heaven ; Tens/ii= Son of Heaven ; K6tei= 
Sublime Ruler; G0-s/w= Imperial Place; Kinrisama = 
Lord of the Palace. Honours conferred by the Tenshi 
are the highest distinctions which can fall to the lot 
of any subject. The symbols of Imperial power are 
the mirror, as an image of the sun-goddess ; the ball of 
rock crystal, the sword, and the brocaded banner. The 
Imperial coat of arms is the chrysanthemum flower; 
at the same time the emblem of the sun. It has 16 
rounded petals. The family badge of the Emperors 
represents three leaves and clusters of flowers of the 
Kiri (Pau/ou'ni Imperialist. 

Both emblems are shown in the design which appears 
on the cover of this book. 

By the Constitution, which was promulgated in 1889, 



ADVANCE fAPAN. 



the Emperor is the supreme head of the realm, and 
combines injhimself all the rights of sovereignty. He 
exercises entire executive power, with the advice and as- 
sistance of his Cabinet Ministers, who are responsible to 
him alone, and are appointed by himself. In addition, 

he consults the Privy 
Council, whose members 
are directed by him, to 
deliberate on important 
affairs of State. His 
Majesty has absolute 
authority to declare war, 
make peace, or conclude 
treaties with foreign 
Powers. 

Cabinet Jliitiateri*. 
The Imperial Cabinet 
now numbers nine mem- 
bers ; they are : 




COUNT MUTSU 
(Minister for Foreign Affairs). 



President of the Cabi- 
net and Prime Minister, Marquis Ito Hirobumi. 

Minister of Justice, M. Yoshikawa Akimasa. 

Minister for Home Affairs, Count Inouye Kaoru. 

Minister of Communications, Count Kuroda Kiyotaka. 

Minister for War, Marquis Oyama Iwao. 

Minister for Agriculture and Commerce, Admiral 
Yenomoto Buyo. 

Minister for Foreign Affairs, Count Mutsu Munemitsu. 

Minister for Education, M. Inouye K6. 



ADMINISTRA TIO.\. 



Minister for the Navy, Marquis Saigo Tsugumichi. 

Minister of Finance, Viscount Watanabe Kunitake*. 

The Parliament. The Imperial Diet (Tei-Koku 
Gi-Kwai), as now constituted, includes the House of 
Peers and the House of 
Representatives, and would 
correspond to our Lords and 
Commons but that the Jap- 
anese Legislative Assemblies 
number only 300 members 
in each instance. The Jap- 
anese House of Peers(Kizoku 
In) has five classes of mem- 
bers. In the first rank are the 
males of the Imperial Family 
who are over 20 years of age ; 
the second rank includes 
those of princely houses not 
directly connected with the Throne, and all nobles of 
the grade of Marquis, the age qualification being 25 
years and upwards. Counts, Viscounts, and Barons 
rank next, also over 25 years old, who have been elected 
to the Diet by their respective orders, the stipulation 
being that the number shall not exceed in any case 
more than a fifth of the total of each order, which 
practically limits the representation to 16 Counts, 71 
Viscounts, and 6 Barons ; the fourth rank includes 
persons over 30 years of age whom the Emperor has 
raised to the House of Peers in recognition of their 




MARQUIS SAIGO TSUGUMICHI 
(Minister of the Na\7). 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



erudition, or of some distinguished service rendered by 
them to the State. So far the grades of membership 
are identical with our own, save that the ecclesiastical 
body is wholly unrepresented in Japan. But there is a 

fifth class of persons in- 
cluded in the Tokio House 
of Peers, for which we have 
no precise equivalent. In 
each prefecture of the Em- 
pire those persons over 30 
years of age, to the number 
of 15, who pay most in the 
way of direct national taxes 
on land or industries are 
nominated by the Emperor 
to elect one of their number 
to sit in the House of Peers. 
Thus there are about 50 of 
the members in the Upper House who are directly the 
representatives of the chief landed and industrial in- 
terests of the nation, elected by the suffrages of the 
plutocracy. These, as well as the Counts, Viscounts, 
and Barons of class three, are elected to the Diet for a 
term of seven years. Membership of the first, second, 
and fourth ranks is for life. 

A stipulation is made that the fourth and fifth classes 
shall together never exceed 1 50 members, or half of the 
total roll-call. 

Pay of .flemlwrw. The House of Representatives 




H.I.H. PRINCE KOMATSU 
(Cousin to the Emperor). 



ADMINISTRATION. 9 

(Shugi In) is occupied by 300 members chosen by ballot 
from the electoral divisions of the realm, a fixed number 
being returned to serve from each district. The pro- 
portion is as nearly as possible one member for 1 37,000 
inhabitants, and the term is four years. Candidates 
must be at least 30 years of age, and must pay not less 
than 15 yen for one year in the shape of direct national 
taxes, or if income tax, must have paid it for three 
years. They need not actually be resident in the dis- 
tricts they represent. Salaries are paid at the rate of 
800 yen annually, and also travelling allowances, the 
members not being at liberty to refuse these emolu- 
ments even were they disposed to do so. In English 
money, at present rates of exchange, the salary is about 
equal to 80 per annum, the session lasting three or 
four months. 

The elected and nominated members of the House of 
Peers receive similar stipends, and the pay of the Presi- 
dents of the two Houses is fixed at 4,000 yen each, that 
of the Vice-Presidents being 2,000 yen each. 

Granting that the sums involved are but trifling ac- 
cording to our calculation, it must be remembered that 
frugality in Japan is so universal that an income of even 
100 a year is sufficient to maintain a small family in 
comparative comfort and respectability. Japan has, at 
all events, solved the vexed question of payment of 
Members of Parliament, in a way which seems to be 
thoroughly satisfactory. 

The electors themselves must qualify by an annual 



io ADVANCE JAPAN. 

payment of 15 yen in direct national taxes, must be at 
least 25 years of age, must actually reside permanently 
in the district to be represented, and have dwelt there 
during the twelve months preceding an election. 

The Imperial Diet controls the finances of the Em- 
pire, and the administration of justice. Voting is carried 
on by secret ballot, on the system of scrntin de liste. 
Every enactment must have the consent of both Houses 
of the Diet, and be ratified by the Emperor, before it 
passes into law. Either House may initiate projects of 
legislation, and may make representations thereon, or 
upon any other subject, to the Cabinet, and may in 
certain events address the Crown direct. The Em- 
peror convokes the Diet, opens, closes, and prorogues 
its sessions, and dissolves the Lower House at his 
will. 

Provincial Assemblies. In 1878 a decidedly pro- 
gressive step was taken in regard to representative 
institutions by the establishment of Provincial Assem- 
blies throughout the realm. It is true they were merely 
local boards, meeting for a month in each year, usually 
in March, but they have the control of local taxation, 
subject to the Governor of the Ken, and through him to 
the Minister for the time being of the Home Depart- 
ment. This privilege of Home Rule is exercised by 
the selected representatives, who must be qualified by a 
three years' residence, must pay a land tax of not less 
than 2 annually, and must be over 25 years old. The 



A DM IN IS TRA TION. 1 1 

election is by ballot, and the electors must qualify by 
the annual payment of ^i land tax, must be over 20 
years old, and must be on the register. The opportunity 
thus afforded by the local representative body to ex- 
press its dissatisfaction with the acts of the Ken-rei, or 
Governor, has been now and then taken advantage of, 
and the assembly has declined to pass the required 
regulations for the imposition of local taxes. These 
district or county councils, as we should call them, have 
proved in the long run, however, of great utility, and 
have been the nurseries of the higher legislative bodies 
more recently brought into operation. 

The Administration in Korea. Count Inouye 
Kaoru, recently in Korea, resided for some years in 
London for the purpose of studying our political and 
municipal institutions, public works, and finance. He 
returned to Japan in the " early seventies " in time to 
take office under the present Prime Minister as head of 
the Public Works Department, and has filled other high 
positions with great success. His mission to Se"oul, 
on which he was despatched early in the current 
year, had for its object the reorganisation of the public 
service, and generally to advise the King of the Penin- 
sular Kingdom upon matters relating to the establish- 
ment of an improved system of government, a task 
which he was eminently qualified to perform. 

When the revolutionary troubles were rife in 1867 he 
was cut down and left for dead by one of the Shogun's 



12 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

adherents. The cold of a winter night staunched the 
bleeding from his wounds, and he survived, with more 
than one scar, to tell the dreadful tale. 

The Leader ol the Opposition. Count Okuma 
Shigenobu, formerly the Finance Minister of the Crown, 
is now in the cold shade of opposition, being the head 
of the " Progressive " or Radical Party in Japan, and 
as such receded from the Cabinet some years ago. 
Whilst at the Treasury he introduced several important 
measures, not the least practical of which was a resolu- 
tion to confine the expenditure of the spending depart- 
ments of the public service the army, navy, and pub- 
lic works strictly within the limits of their estimates. 
Additional outlays, when indispensable, may be sanc- 
tioned by new credits, and, on the other hand, surpluses 
are repaid to the Treasury. He pointed out that esti- 
mates were necessary as a check on irregular expendi- 
ture, and to induce habits of economy. If the officials 
were not hedged about with restrictions, it would be 
certain, in his opinion, to lead to extravagance, and the 
estimates would become mere waste paper. Though, 
with characteristic modesty, he admitted that his appre- 
hensions might not be altogether warranted, the Cabinet 
agreed with him so far as to issue a decree embodying 
his suggestions. 



1.3 




CHAPTER II. 

THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 

NOTWITHSTANDING the fact that 
Japan was known to the intrepid 
navigators of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 
and at least one Englishman held 
high office at the Court of Yedo 
in the seventeenth century, the Mikado's Empire 
was veiled in an obscurity of its own creation until 
comparatively recent years, from which it has only 
within the last decade finally emerged. The most in- 
teresting parallels may be drawn between the relative 
positions of the United Kingdom and Japan to the 
Continents which they respectively adjoin, and the 
resemblance between the geographical situation of the 
British Isles on the fringe of Europe, and that ot 
the Islands of Japan on the extreme eastern edge 
of Asia, is so striking as to have attracted universal 
attention. The comparison may be carried much 
farther, for the population of Japan is now about 
41 millions, approximating closely to that of Great 
Britain and Ireland, whilst the extent of coast-line 
and combined acreage of the lanrer islands do not 



I 4 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

differ in either case to such a degree as to present a 
dissimilarity fatal to calculations which may be based 
upon numerical and territorial considerations. In fact, 
the four largest islands of Japan, viz. : Hondo, Yeso, 
Kiushiu, and Shikoku, comprise 139,047 square miles, 
against a total of 121,115 square miles in the British 
Isles ; but Japan boasts the possession of an almost 
countless archipelago, studding the innermost channels 
which separate the larger divisions of the Empire, as 
well as two straggling chains of islets, extending many 
leagues north and south of the principal group, on 
account of which the total area of the Japanese Empire 
has to be increased by about 7,566 square miles. Whilst 
the British Isles lie between the 49th and 6ist parallels 
of north latitude, the islands of the Japanese Empire 
stretch from the 24th to the 49th, and have, in conse- 
quence, a far greater range of temperature and climatic 
variation than prevails with us. It is due to the pre- 
sence of the Kuro-Shiiuo a warm ocean current laving 
the shores of Japan, just as the Gulf Stream exerts its 
beneficent influence upon the British coasts that the 
inhabitants of the Pacific slope in Kiushiu, Shikoku, and 
Central Hondo are enabled to enjoy those excellent gifts 
of nature to the existence of which the verdant hill-sides 
and abundant vegetation afford delightful testimony, as 
the voyager approaches the eastern coast. But for this 
Pacific Gulf Stream the Japanese islands would ex- 
perience some of the rigours which distinguish the 
winters of Manchuria and Northern Korea, countries 



-JAPAN- 

PROVINCES 



Zo Shinano 
22 Echiu 
Note 
26 Mmo 
28 

JO Tolorn 
32 

WalcaS* 
36 
3S 

40 SctUu 
+2 Tango 

Har.ma 




PROVINCES AND PRODUCTS. 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 17 

very similarly placed as regards their distance from the 
equator. The northern half of Hondo, indeed, as well 
as the entire island of Yeso, are visited by frost and 
snow to an extent only paralleled in North China, so 
that the Mikado's subjects who dwell in the northern 
portion of his dominions are accustomed to cope with 
disadvantages at least as grave as those with which the 
people of the Chinese province of Liao-Tung are called 
upon to contend. 

The Mainland. Ho)tdo\s\.}\e. real name of the largest 
island of the Japanese group. It usually figures on Euro- 
pean maps as Niphon, or Nihon, and occasionally as 
Nippon, although the term Ni-hon, lit. Sun-Origin, applies 
to the whole Empire. Japan is a Dutch corruption of Ji- 
pen, by which name the Mikado's dominions are known 
to the Chinese. In the ideographic signs which form the 
written and printed characters of both China and Japan, 
to which a more extended reference will be made in 
due course, the symbol for "Sun" is read by Japanese 
as Ni, but by Chinese as /*, that for " Origin " being 
pronounced Hon in Japan, and Pen in China. It is easy 
to comprehend how the Hollanders, having first heard 
of the Mikado's territory whilst visiting China, gave to 
that territory the name by which it was then, and still 
is, known to the Chinese. To the Mikado's subjects 
who dwell at a distance from the ports open to foreign 
trade, the term "Japan" is as unmeaning as it would 
be to an Ethiopian, for they invariably allude to them- 
selves as Ni/ion-jin, i.e., people of Nihon, and this ex- 

C 



1 8 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

pression applies not merely to the inhabitants of one 
island (Hondo), but to the entire group. Hondo is 
literally " true region," the character Do being used 
not only in its strict sense of " road," but as including 
the region traversed by that road. The kingdom of 
Korea is divided into Do in precisely the same way. 
The Hondo of the Empire of Nihon is subdivided into 
five Imperial coach-roads and several Imperial bye- 
roads, just as Great Britain possessed its mail-coach 
routes (some of which, as the " Great North Road," 
still retain the designations they bore of old) prior to 
the general introduction of railways. In the Far East 
the well-known " Tokaido " and other high-roads of its 
class are destined, in the near future, to be entirely 
supplanted, as lines of travel, by the modern railroad, 
and the change has already in great measure been 
effected along the Tokaido, to the dismay of its inn- 
keepers and caterers in general, who have shared the 
fate of the proprietors of famous coaching-houses on 
the old turnpike-roads leading out of London. Promi- 
nent among the coach-roads of Japan are the Tokaido, 
or East Sea road ; the Tosando, or East Mountain road ; 
Hoku-riku-do, or Northern Land route, as distinguished 
from the Hok'kaido, or North Sea region ; the Sanyodo, 
or Outer Mountain road ; and the Sanindo, or Inner 
Mountain road. With the exception of Hok'kaido, 
which is confined to the island of Yeso, these great 
trunk roads all traverse the principal territory of 
Hondo, whilst the Mikado's many island possessions 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 21 

in the south are grouped under the head of Saikaido, 
or Western Sea road in Kiushiu, or of the Nankaido, 
or Southern Sea region in Shikoku. It may not be 
altogether superfluous to introduce thus briefly some 
of the elements of an itinerary, in consideration of 
the circumstance that for a long period subsequent to 
the opening of Japan to European trade the impres- 
sion prevailed that there was but one high-road through 
the country, and that the Tokaido. In the appendix 
to this volume will be found complete mileage tables 
of all the important Japanese trade routes, with the 
cities, towns, and other essential features clearly indi- 
cated, so that when the Treaty recently entered into 
between Great Britain and Japan comes into active 
operation in 1899, and the entire land is thrown open 
to British commerce, the mercantile community may 
have had ample opportunity to form an opinion re- 
garding the value of these several channels by which 
to reach the heart of the Mikado's Empire with the 
best prospects of success. 

Territorial Diviwion*. Adhering to the native 
principle of regarding the roads as the main arteries 
extending to the distant limbs of the Empire, as a 
recognised nomenclature which bids fair to be per- 
petuated in spite of other changes, the following table 
is likely to be serviceable in enabling the reader to 
recognise the main divisions of the Tcnshi's territory. 

i. The Tokaidd, or Eastern Sea Route, embracing 
fifteen provinces, viz., Ise, Iga, Shima, Owari, Sanshiu 



22 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

(Mikawa), Enshiu (Totomi), Sunshiu (Suruga), Idzu, 
Sagami, Koshiu (Kai), Bushiu (Musashi), Boshiu (Awa), 
Kadzusa, Shimosa, and Hitachi. 

2. The Tosando, or Eastern Mountain Route, com- 
prising Goshiu (Omi), Mino, Hida, Shinshiu (Shinano), 
Joshiu (K6dzuk6), Yashiu (Shimodzuk), Iwashiro, Ivvaki, 
Rikuzen, Rikuchiu, Uzen, Ugo, and Mutsu. 

3. The Hokurikitdo, or Northern Land Route, em- 
bracing Jakushiu (Wakasa), Echizen, Kaga, Noto, Echiu, 
Kchigo, and the island of Sado. 

4. The Sanindo, or Rear Mountain Route, comprising 
Tamba, Tango, Tajima, Inshiu (Inaba), Hoki, Idzumo, 
and Iwami, with the group of islands named Oki. 

5. The Sanyodo, or Front Mountain Route, compris- 
ing the eight provinces of Banshiu (Harima), Sakushiu 
(Mimasaka), Bizen, Bichiu, Bingo, Geishiu (Aki), Suwo, 
and Choshiu (Nagato). 

6. The Nankaido, or Southern Sea Route, including 
Kishiu (Kii), Ashiu (Awa), Sanuki, lyo, and Tosa (the 
last four form the island of Shikoku), and the Island of 
Awaji. 

7. The Sai-Kai-do, or Western Sea Route, comprising 
the nine provinces of Kiushiu, viz., Chikuzen, Chikugo, 
Buzen, Bungo, Hizen, Higo, Hiuga, Osumi, and Sasshiu 
(Satsuma). 

8. The Hok'kaido, or North Sea Route, embracing 
the ten divisions of the large Island of Yeso, viz., Oshima, 
Shiribeshi, Ishikari, Teshiwo, Kitami, Ifuri, Hitaka, 
Tokachi, Kushiro, and Nemuro, with the chain of 
Kurile Isles (Chijima). 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 23 

In addition to these eight routes or circuits, the 
Empire includes the Go-ki-nai, or five home provinces, 
lying immediately around what was formerly the Capital, 
viz., Kioto just as we speak of the Home Counties 
adjacent to our Metropolis. These five comprise Yama- 
shiro, Yamato, Kawachi, Setsu, and Idzumi. 

The island groups of Tsushima, Goto, and Iki, in the 
west, the Bonin group to the east, the Loo-choo and 
Majiko Archipelagoes, with Formosa, to the south, and 
the straggling chain of Kuriles, stretching to Kams- 
chatka in the far north, constitute the outposts of Japan. 

Kuanto was originally a term for the eastern half 
of the Empire, as Kuansei embraced all the west, but 
Knanto is now a collective expression for the territory 
formerly divided into the eight provinces of Musashi, 
Sagami, Kodzuke, Shimodzuk, Kadzusa, Shimosa, Awa, 
and Hitachi, all lying around the modern capital of 
Tokio, and constituting since 1868 the actual home 
provinces. 

Since the Restoration the original titles of the pro- 
vinces have been abolished as official designations, and 
the Empire has been divided into Prefectures, two or 
three provinces being frequently grouped under one Ken. 

The Ken are to be identified as under : 



I'RRKKCTURE. PROVINCES INCLUDED. 



Tokio Fu 
Kioto 
Osaka 
Kanagawa Ken 
Saitama 
Chiba 



The Capital and Environs. 
Yamashiro, Tango, and Tamba. 
Kawachi and Id/umi. 
Sagami and part of Musashi. 
Part of Musashi. 
Awa, Kadzusa, and Shimosa. 



24 



ADVANCE I A PAN. 



PREFECTURE. 



PROVINCES INCI.UDEI). 



Ibaraki Ken 

Tochigi 

Gumma 

Nagano 

Yamanashi 

Shidzuoka 

Aichi ... 

Miye" 

Gifu 

Shiga ... 

Fukui 

Ishikawa 

Toyama 

Niigata 

Fukushima 

Miyagi 

Yamagata 

Akita 

Iwate" ... 
Aomori 
Nara ... 
Wakayama ... 

Hiogo ... 

Okayama 

Hiroshima 

Yamaguchi 

Shimane" 

Tottori 

Tokushima 

Kagawa 

Ehime" 

Kochi ... 
Nagasaki 

Saga 

Fukuoka 
Kumamoto 

Oita 

Miyasaki 
Kagoshima ... 
Okinawa 
Hokkaido 



Hitachi. 
Shimodzuke. 
Kodzuke. 
Shinano. 
Kai. 

Totomi, Suruga, and Idzu. 
Owari and Mikawa. 
Ise", Iga, and Shima. 
Mino and Hida. 
Omi. 

Wakasa and Echizen. 
Kaga and Noto. 
Echiu. 

Echigo and Sado Island. 
Iwashiro and Iwaki. 
Rikuzen. 
Uzen. 
Ugo. 
Rikuchiu. 
Mutsu. 
Yamato. 
Kii. 

(Tajima, Harima, Settsu, and 
ii. Awaji Island. 
Bichiu, Bizen, and Mimasaka. 
Aki and Bingo. 
Nagato and Suwo. 
Iwami and Idzumo. 
Inaba and Hoki. 
Awa. 
Sanuki. 
lyo. 
Tosa. 

Part of Hizen. 
Part of Hizen. 

Chikuzen, Buzen, and Chikugo. 
Higo. 
Bungo. 
Hiuga. 

Satsuma and Osumi. 
Loochoo Group. 
Island of Yeso. 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 25 

The Tokaido. It is with the Tokaido that the 
reading public of this country are best acquainted, for 
it was usually by this extremely interesting high-road 
that visitors to Japan were able to journey when in 
possession of passports authorising them to prosecute 
their researches beyond the radius of ten Japanese 
leagues (equal to 24^ English miles) from either of the 
Treaty Ports. Without such special authority,the move- 
ments of foreign residents have always been closely 
restricted to the limits defined by the treaties. The 
day is approaching when it will be practicable to pass 
without let or hindrance from one end of Japan to the 
other, so long as the traveller may conform to the laws 
of that country ; and although the railways will by that 
time have reached many places now only accessible by 
road, yet it is certain that very little change will be 
visible in the condition of the great southern and 
western regions, into which those impulses which stir 
the central provinces are necessarily somewhat slow to 
penetrate. 

The Tokaido may not unfairly be compared in length 
and general features to the Great North Road joining 
London and Scotland, save that it follows somewhat 
more closely the line of the sea-coast. By the Tokaido 
the Mikado's capital is joined to Kioto and Osaka, 
which are the Edinburgh and Glasgow of the Far East. 
There are several large cities along the route, notably 
Nagoya, Shidzuoka, Yoshida, Okazaki, and Hamamatsu, 
whilst closely adjacent to this main trade artery are the 



26 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

great tea, silk, and pottery-producing regions of Uji, 
Gifu, and Banko. 

In various parts the Tokaido skirts the sea-beach for 
miles at a stretch, affording magnificent views of the 
Pacific Ocean, and at other points the route traverses 
lofty ranges of hills, or winds amid an almost endless 
succession of fertile cornfields. The beauties of the tall 
cryptomeria trees, which border the roadside more or 
less the whole way, save in the towns and villages, have 
been so often described that it need only be observed 
that these cedar avenues, as they have been termed, 
were first planted 260 years ago by the order of the 
Shogun lyeyasu, and have been renewed from time to 
time as the trees decayed and fell in the devastating 
storms of autumn. They still, in places, preserve traces 
of former grandeur, though it is rare to meet with so 
noble and perfect an avenue as that met with on 
the road to Nikko. The motive ascribed to the Sho- 
gun (who was the founder of that last line of vice- 
regal administrators in whom it was for long supposed 
that the supreme power lay invested) in planting these 
cryptomeria, was an entirely philanthropic one, and 
originated in a desire to lessen the danger of sunstroke 
for those wayfarers whose duties or necessities com- 
pelled them to travel during the noonday heat of 
summer. That many a panting pedestrian has in- 
wardly acknowledged his indebtedness to the fore- 
thought of the dead chieftain as he has crept into the 
grateful shade cast by the thickly-interlaced branches 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 27 

overhead, may well be comprehended by anyone who 
has even experienced no greater degree of heat than 
that of an English August afternoon. 

The Peerless Mountain. Japan, without Fuji- 
yama that noble cone with the truncated summit so 
conspicuous in every example of native art, ceramic 
or pictorial would be as deficient as Naples without 
Vesuvius, and it must be admitted that the Peerless 
Mountain, as its admirers love to deem it, figures very 
prominently in the landscape at innumerable resting- 
places along the celebrated road. The cone really rises 
from amid a series of mountainous ridges branching off 
seaward from the great backbone range which traverses 
longitudinally the central districts of Hondo, and 
until the crest of any one of these ridges is attained, 
it is not possible to appreciate the real height and pro- 
portions of the now extinct volcano. Viewed from 
seaward, it seems to slope upward directly from the 
beach, although more than twenty miles inland, and 
the rise, although gradual, is fully perceptible all the 
way to Omiya, at which town the ascent may fairly be 
said to commence. An extent of country measuring 
not less than fifty miles square may be said to be 
principally occupied by the gigantic mountain and 
the lofty ranges which cluster about its base, ere they 
strike off in various directions. On the eastern side 
the Pacific Ocean deeply indents the tract of land so 
defined, but otherwise the majestic cone, and its atten- 
dant court of serrated peaks, occupy in more or less 



28 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

complete continuity that vast expanse. From number- 
less elevated passes within a radius of sixty miles, the 
familiar snow-clad slopes gleam brightly on the horizon 
during ten months of the year, and when first dis- 
cerned in the light of the morning sun, a mystic glisten- 
ing pyramid of rose-pink hue rising abruptly from the 
ocean, as the vessel approaches the Japanese coast, 
Fujiyama amply demonstrates its right to be regarded 
as an object of surpassing splendour. Oyama, one of 
Fujiyama's satellites, is a peak which attains a height 
exactly equal to that of Ben Nevis, and the vicinity 
bristles with ridges and conical protuberances of an 
elevation roughly equal to Snowdon and Helvellyn. 
Fujiyama was unpleasantly active in comparatively 
recent years, and its pumice-covered sides remind 
the visitor of Vesuvius. The entire neighbourhood 
affords evidences of the desolation which was wrought 
in the last great eruption, volcanic ash being present 
everywhere beneath the thin layer of vegetation over- 
lying all the hills. Tradition declares that the moun- 
tain arose in a single night simultaneously with the 
formation of a deep depression, two hundred miles 
away, in which were gathered the waters now constitut- 
ing Lake Biwa. Be that as it may, there is a record 
within comparatively modern times of the upheaval of 
the massive excrescence above Mishima, which breaks 
the slope of the cone, and which appears, when viewed 
from the village, to have been scooped out of the 
mountain's flank and turned over to one side bodily, 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 31 

as with a ploughshare, to an extent of between two 
and three square miles. That Fujiyama would be 
capable of doing a vast amount of mischief to the 
Capital of Japan eighty miles distant, should it ever 
happen that seismic disturbances arouse his wrath once 
more, is undeniable, and volcanoes of less importance 
in the same chain are still at times remarkably vigorous. 
Hakone Lake* To this volcanic tendency must 
be attributed the origin of the sulphur springs, which 
a bounteous nature has bestowed upon the Hakone" 
district, situated on the northern face of one of Fuji- 
yama's attendant mountain-ranges. Hakone Lake is 
formed in the crater of what was itself at one time 
an active volcano, and the shining slopes of the " peer- 
less cone" are reflected in the profound depths of this 
Asiatic Loch Lomond, as it lies unruffled, sheltered 
by circumjacent grassy peaks, at a height of 2,350 feet 
above sea-level. The Tokaido railway makes a detour 
to avoid the pass of Hakone", and surmounts the ridge 
at a point well to the northward, where the elevation 
is less than 1,600 feet, dropping down by easy stages 
to the uplands surrounding the foot of the giant moun- 
tain, and skirting the coast as it stretches away to the 
great cities of the south. Hakone" hills possess more 
than common interest for the people of Japan, as in 
addition to the many historical associations which 
cluster i round the region, the value of the neighbour- 
hood as a health resort for the residents in the Mi- 
kado's Capital and the Treaty Port of Yokohama, can 



32 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

scarcely be overrated. Foreign tourists are all familiar 
with the evidences presented by the district of the 
determination of its inhabitants to take high rank 
among the most enterprising of His Majesty's sub- 
jects. 

The natural hot springs of this pleasant region attract 
immense numbers of Japanese people throughout the 
year, but more particularly in the spring and summer. 
The surrounding scenery is so picturesque that foreign 
residents spend their holidays in the hills, with great 
advantage to themselves and not a little to the local 
native innkeepers. The water of the springs is in some 
instances clear, in others milky with the sulphur it 
holds in solution. The odour of Ashi-no-yu, in par- 
ticular, is perceptible a mile away. In a long valley 
close at hand the ground is soft and yielding, sending 
up jets of sulphurous steam when pierced at the edge of 
the footpath, and the vegetation of the neighbourhood 
is utterly blasted by the vapours which the soil exhales. 
Sulphur is transported from this and neighbouring re- 
gions in large quantities to the Capital and Yokohama, 
whence a certain proportion finds shipment to other 
countries. The Mikado altered the name of the place 
from Kojigoku (Little Hell) which it formerly bore 
to Ko-waki-dani (Little Boiling Valley), when he visited 
the region in 1877. 

Ashinoyu Springs have been analysed, with the result 
that in one litre of the Tekko-Sui water the principal 
constituents were, in fractions of a gramme, oxide of 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 33 

iron, '048 ; chloride of sodium, -039 ; sulphate of lime, 
048; silicic acid, 'Oi6. In the Sen-Yeki-to bath they 
were, chloride of sodium, "123 ; sulphate of lime, 308 ; 
silicic acid, '103. In a third spring, the Daruma- Yu 
sulphate of lime, "256; chloride of sodium, '150. 

The analysis affords a clear idea of the extent to 
which these waters are impregnated with mineral 
elements, and accounts in a measure for the medicinal 
properties ascribed to them by native visitors. 

Out of the picturesque gorges which excoriate the 
surface at the base of the splendid cone of Fujiyama, 
countless rivulets tumble and race in their eagerness to 
reach the verdant valleys, many of them receiving such 
augmentations of volume in their passage as serve to 
transform the rippling streams into fierce and uncon- 
trollable torrents, particularly at those times when the 
ordinary waters become swollen by aggregation of melt- 
ing ice and snow pouring down from Fuji's crest. These 
numerous feeders blend to form the rivers which inter- 
sect the Tokaido, and not a little engineering skill has 
been required in the construction of bridges fitted to 
withstand the enormous energy exhibited every summer 
and autumn by these floods. Up to within very recent 
years it was deemed impossible to maintain any struc- 
ture intact during the prevalence of the annual inunda- 
tions, and the methods adopted to restrain the impetu- 
osity of the turgid streams were ludicrously ineffective 
Bridge-building, as an art, was fully understood, but the 
expense involved in the provision of substantial piers 

D 



34 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and abutments deterred the landowners from carrying 
out any such colossal undertakings as have since become 
necessary in connection with the Japanese railways. 
Some of the most praiseworthy examples of ingenuity, 
from the engineer's point of view, will have to be re- 
corded later on, in proof of the contention that Japan 
had always possessed latent talent of the highest order, 
in readiness to meet those heavy drafts upon her mental 
resources which have in recent years been so satisfac- 
torily honoured. 

The deeply-riven hill-sides bear groves of pine and fir, 
both red and black, nearly all the slopes being clothed 
to the very tips with timber and brushwood in dense 
luxuriance. Azaleas cling to the scanty earth, and over- 
hang the cliffs, as they threaten to cast themselves into 
the rushing cataracts below. The pathway of the To- 
kaido often seems rugged enough hereabouts to have 
been hewn out of the solid rock by the efforts of some 
stupendous cataclysm. Emerging from the sphere of 
volcanic influence so palpably impressed upon the Fuji- 
yama neighbourhood, a less mountainous country is 
reached which constitutes the centre of a great tea- 
producing district, though it is not one specially cele- 
brated for the excellence of its leaf. The tea grown 
there is mainly sold to native consumers, and is often 
merely sun-dried. Such as it is, however, it finds a ready 
demand throughout the province, and possibly would 
exhibit surprisingly good qualities were it accorded that 
skilful preparation for the foreign market which is be- 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 35 

stowed upon more fashionable brands. The cultivation 
of tea is a subject to which extraordinary attention 
is paid in Japan, though little of the produce comes to 
Europe. Throughout the tea-growing country the soil 
is largely composed of disintegrated granite, very friable 
to the touch ; it is easily permeated by moisture, and as 
easily drained. On the lower levels, where considerable 
quantities of rice are grown, the soil is heavily saturated 
by fertilisers, to induce it to yield adequate return for 
the labour devoted to it. 

The i-ix-Niiogun. Situated in an open plain fifteen 
miles from the coast is the city of Shidzuoka, once the 
seat of the powerful daiinio of Suruga, and now remark- 
able as being the home of the deposed Shogun Keiki, 
who retired to this comparatively peaceful spot in the 
year 1868, when his vice-regal sway, as the last of the 
" Tycoons," came to an end. Here for 25 years the 
once potent and highly-honoured " temporal emperor," 
as he was erroneously styled, lived the life of a simple 
country gentleman, spending his time in fishing and 
hawking, receiving few visitors, and betraying but little 
interest in the busy world from which he became, in 
one day, so completely isolated. It was with this gen- 
tleman, in his capacity of " Tycoon," that the earliest 
treaties were made, by which Western Powers obtained 
access to the then unfamiliar ports of the Mikado's 
Empire. The real Emperor was invisible, dwelling in 
absolute seclusion at Kioto, and the Shogun, his delegate, 
carried on the business of State at Yedo as the virtual 

D 2 



36 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

sovereign. Tai-kun was the honorific expression by which 
the Shdgun Keiki was alluded to in documentary cor- 
respondence with the representatives of foreign nations, 
and as Tai-kun, or Tycoon, he will be remembered for 
all time. 

Farther westward, the Tokaido crosses an arm of 




NAGOYA CASTLE. 

the sea, and the usual conveyance is a ferry-boat, but 
since the completion of the railway the question of 
providing a permanent structure for the highway has 
been vehemently discussed, and the necessity . for its 
early completion strongly urged upon the authorities. 
The inlet marks the half-way point between the present 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 37 

capital of Tokio and the ancient dwelling-place of the 
Mikado at Kioto, otherwise known, under the old 
regime, as Miako. 

The city of Nagoya, with a castle and moat which 
are well preserved amid the levelling tendencies of the 
age, constitutes an important landmark on the route 
taken by high-road and railway. It lies at the head of 
Owari Gulf, a deep indentation of the eastern coast-line 
which reduces the width of the mainland of Nihon at 
this point to about 70 miles. The mountain ridges of 
the central region and eastern coast here unite into 
one range which occupies so much of the isthmus that 
only a narrow strip is left on either slope between the 
foothills and the sea. Owari Gulf is fully 65 miles 
wide at its entrance from the Pacific, but narrows down 
immediately to 20 miles, and is subdivided into several 
sounds and inlets, all affording excellent shelter from 
the typhoons which ravage this coast. In one of these 
sounds is situated the village famous throughout Japan 
as holding the revered shrines of Ise, erected on the 
spot held sacred by all loyal subjects of the Mikado as 
that where His Majesty's ancestors first set foot upon 
the soil of Nihon. The Tens/it, to give him the title by 
which he is best known to his people, is directly de- 
scended, if we are to rely upon the Shinto tradition, 
from Ama-ga-terasu, the Sun-god, and that deity, in 
incarnate shape, came down from the heavens and 
dwelt for a time in what is now the province of Ise. 
The Tens/a is thus literally to be regarded as the 



38 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

" Son of the Heavens," as his title implies, and the 
term Nihon, as applied to the whole country, had refer- 
ence at the outset, it may be supposed, to this assumed 
relationship of its ruler to the great luminary. Thus 
viewed, the derivation of the term Nihon becomes less 
difficult of comprehension, for a people who claimed 
that their progenitors were actually the people of the 
sun might, with equal show of justice, regard their 
country as having had a "sun-origin," hence Ni> the 
sun, and Hon, source or origin. Any allusion to Japan 
as the " Land of Sunrise " is therefore fully justified by 
an interpretation of its title. Ise is in itself a charm- 
ing spot in summer, when its umbrageous groves afford 
their deepest shade and its lovely scenery of hill and 
dale is seen at its very best. 

The Uji province, famed for its tea from ancient days, 
lies between Is6 and Kioto, and comprises a large 
district throughout which every hill and mound of 
moderate elevation are terraced and planted with the 
tea shrub, which at first sight bears no slight resem- 
blance to the myrtle, and bears a yellow and white 
flower of the wild camellia type. The soil and climate 
of Uji are peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of tea, 
and most of that which is exported to the United States 
is produced in this district. At present it finds its way 
in the raw state, having been simply curled up by the 
sun's rays without artificial heat, to the " firing-houses " 
of Osaka and Hiogo, where the leaves are subjected to 
various processes prior to packing for transit across the 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 41 

Pacific. Doubtless the bulk of this necessary work will 
be carried out in future years at the great tea-growing 
centres, and the cost of transport and transhipment 
materially reduced. 

Strictly speaking, the Tokaido proper only skirts the 
Uji province, and the true high-road passes by way of 
Ugaki and Otsu to Kioto, so that travellers ordinarily 
see but little of the Uji tea plantations. It so happened, 
however, that the first Englishman to make the over- 
land journey, Sir Rutherford Alcock, passed by the 
Uji route when travelling overland from Hiogo to Yedo, 
in 1860, mainly because the Japanese Government of 
that day deemed it unadvisable that a foreigner, not- 
withstanding his high rank as the British Ambassador, 
should disturb the tranquillity of the Mikado's head- 
quarters at Kioto by passing through that place. Times 
have changed, and now the Mikado himself travels by 
express train through the environs of the city wherein 
his youth was passed in the strict seclusion of palace 
walls. 

Biwa Lake. At Otsu the high-road touches the 
southern shore of Lake Biwa, a sheet of water 40 miles 
in length by three to ten miles broad. Small steamers 
ply upon it between Otsu and the castle town of 
Hikone, situated near its northern end. This is the 
lake which is traditionally reputed to have been formed 
on the night that Fujiyama suddenly sprang into exist- 
ence. It is the only lake of large size in Japan, and 
the dwellers in the central provinces are justly proud 



42 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

of the strikingly beautiful surroundings which arc seen 
reflected in its placid depths. The Tokaido railway 
follows its margin for some miles, and a branch line 
connects it with the western coast at Tsuruga. In 
circumference Lake Biwa measures some 53 Japanese 
leagues, or 129^ English miles, deriving its name from 
a fanciful resemblance in outline to the musical instru- 
ment of that name, a species of guitar. The river 
which flows from its southern extremity passes through 
Kioto and Osaka and falls into the bay named after 
the latter city, 45 miles to the south-west. 

The Eastern Sea road, of which the general course 
has thus briefly been traced out, gives its name to the 
eight provinces bordering the Pacific in Central Japan. 
In ancient historical works, five of these provinces col- 
lectively bear the name of Yamato, another designation 
being Adzuma ; whilst Yamato was likewise applied of 
old to the entire country, and the title still survives in 
the expression Yamato-damashi, the soul of old Japan. 
Kuan-to was also a modern collective term for the 
central provinces, but all the original names have 
been superseded by those of the recently established 
prefectures, denominated Ken. Thus, the province of 
Suruga, as it was known to all its inhabitants prior 
to 1870, has been combined with the provinces of 
Totomi and Idzu to form Shidzuoka Ken so that the 
territorial distinctions of the great feudalism which re- 
ceived its death-blow with the deposition of the last 
Shdgun have all but vanished. The central region 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 43 

has been always regarded as the richest and most 
productive of the Empire. It contains the most 
populous cities, and is distinguished, in a land where 
agriculture deservedly ranks high, as the most effec- 
tively cultivated tract of country under the Mikado's 
sway. It is the heart of Japan, and the spirit which 
animates it has more than once, in the history of the 
country, proved potent in affairs of State. 

Turbulent Rivers. The rivers of the Tokaido 
region are not remarkable for length, but for their ex- 
cessive turbulency in summer. Throughout the winter 
they are all but dry. The Oigawa and the Ten-riu-gawa 
are both over half-a-mile wide from bank to bank, but 
it is only during flood-time that they become full, and 
remain so for not more than three or four days con- 
secutively. The Ten-riu (Heavenly dragon) River is 
about 130 miles long, and rises in the central range 
of the Nakasendo or Middle Mountain road, not far 
from the thriving town of Uyeda. The Oigawa is only 
70 miles long, and rises in Shirane-yama (10,200 feet), 
while the Fujikawa, a stream noted for its exceeding 
velocity, 53 miles in length, flows from the base of Fuji- 
yama. Farther westward the River Kiso crosses the 
Tokaido, near the important town of Ogaki, and is 
navigable for large junks for many miles inland, a 
distinction which cannot be claimed by any other 
stream in the central region. Several smaller rivers 
are met with along the route of the East Coast road, 
but they are of altogether minor importance, taking 



44 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

their rise in the ranges of low hills bordering the coast, 
and flowing, almost without exception, into the Pacific 
Ocean. A noticeable feature is the Hamana inlet, which 
bears in many respects a close resemblance to Plymouth 
Sound, save that it has a natural sandbar at the en- 
trance in the position occupied by the breakwater at 
our Devonshire seaport. There is not sufficient depth 
of water within the bar to make the harbour valuable, 
or it would be resorted to during the typhoon season, 
for the beach is annually strewn with wrecks many 
leagues to the east and west whilst the autumn storms 
prevail. 

There are two small islands off the Tokaido coast 
which deserve mention, one being occupied by a still 
active volcano, and marked as Vries Island on the 
Admiralty charts, though its Japanese name is Oshima. 
There has been no eruption of a pronounced cha- 
racter of late years, but the crater constantly gives off 
dense volumes of vapour, and occasionally emits flame. 
As a landmark leading to the Bay of Yedo, Vries 
Island is clearly of some value to manners. The other 
islet, for Enoshima is nothing more, is chiefly remark- 
able as a pleasure resort, and seems naturally to form 
part of the tour which every traveller from Europe or 
America feels it incumbent upon him to make. No 
one can deny that the locality abounds in charming 
scenery, and with its shrines, grottoes, innumerable 
temples and shady groves, the place will repay a visit. 

Area and Population. The proportion of the 



THE JAPANESE ISLANDS. 45 

population to the mile is 435 in Central Hondo, the 
area of that section being taken as 36,600 square miles, 
whilst in Northern Hondo, in 30,204 square miles, it is 
207 only, but 452 in West Hondo with an area of 20,681 
square miles. Shikoku has 413 to the mile, Kiushiu 
376, and Yeso only nine persons, the respective areas 
being 7,031, 16,840, and 36,299 square miles. 

This gives a grand total for the Empire of 41,089,940, 
in an area of 147,655 square miles, or 278 to the mile. 

There are at least 36 cities which can claim, according 
to the latest census, to have a population of more than 
30,000 persons, viz. : Tokio, 1,303,876 ; Osaka, 484,409 ; 
Kioto, 328,403 ; Nagoya, 200,720 ; Kobe-Hiogo, 159,243 ; 
Yokohama, 160,866 ; Kanasawa and Hiroshima, over 
90,000 each ; Sendai, Nagasaki, Tokushima, and Hako- 
dat6, between 60,000 and 70,000 each ; Kumamoto, 
Toyama, Fukuoka, Wakayama, Kagoshima, and Oka- 
yama, below 60,000 each ; Niigata, Sakai, Matsuye, 
Naha, and Fukui, below 50,000 ; Shidzuoka, Takamatsu, 
Matsuyama, Kochi, Shimonoseki, Kofu, Utsunomiya, 
Mayebashi, Gifu, Morioka, Otsu, Hirosaki, and Takaoka, 
below 40,000 each. 

Mountain**. There are at least 75 mountains in 
Japan with a height of over 3,000 feet. Measurements 
are continually being made as the geographical survey 
progresses, but the best known are the peerless Fujiyama, 
which is now considered to be no more than 12,365 feet 
above high water-mark in the bay at its base ; Asama 
Yama, 8,500 feet ; Nan-tai-san, in the Nikko range, 8,250 



46 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

feet ; Oyama, in the province of Sagami, 5,150 feet ; Tsu- 
kuba-san, on the Pacific coast, 4,000 feet ; and On-sen-ga 
take, formerly a volcano, in Hizen, 4,100 feet. Asama- 
yama still shows occasional signs of activity, the last 
eruption having taken place in 1870. 

iiarttour*. The Japanese islands are particularly 
rich in harbours, and though these were always known 
to the fishermen and coasting traders, it is only within 
the last twenty years that many of them have been used 
by steamers and other large craft. The development of 
a trade in coal and other minerals must inevitably bring 
more of them into prominence, but the number already 
in constant use as shipping ports for local produce has 
grown to be very considerable. Some are already well- 
known to Europeans, and when the country is all opened 
to foreign trade it is more than likely that they may 
become ports of call for the mercantile navies of the 
world. According to Japanese reckoning, there are no 
fewer than 56 large harbours, but perhaps the best 
known, after Nagasaki, the fame of which has spread 
to all the earth, are Shimoda (once a Treaty Port), 
Shimidzu, Toba, and Matoya, on the Pacific coast, all 
of them excellent, Mitarai and Takamatsu, in the Inland 
Sea, where likewise is situated the Naval Station of Kure, 
Kagoshima in Satsuma, the ports of Mororan and Hako- 
dat in the far north, and the harbours in the islands on 
the west coast of Sado, Iki, and Tsushima. In the last- 
named there is such complete shelter that a navy might 
lie hidden, and with deep water so close to the shore 



THE- JAPANESE ISLANDS. 47 

that the ships might tie up to the trunks of great trees 
which clothe the banks to the very margin of the 
channel. 

Climate. There is a disposition to regard Japan as 
being somewhat disadvantageously situated as respects 
its climate. By some it is credited with a degree of heat 
in summer which becomes practically insupportable, 
whilst by others the winter is believed to be extremely 
severe. The truth is that a Japanese summer is but a 
trifle hotter than an English summer, taking a fair 
average, and is by no means unbearable. Moreover, 
the extreme heat is felt at about the same period, viz., 
in August, and may be looked for with some degree of 
certainty. All the seasons are regular, and the result is 
that the inhabitants are able to solve the vexed question 
of what garments they shall wear, with a degree of satis- 
faction to themselves to which an Englishman has for 
some years past been a stranger in his own land. Natu- 
rally, with so lengthy a chain of islands, there must be a 
very perceptible variation of average temperature, and the 
foregoing remarks apply more especially to the central 
districts, for at Loo-choo and Bonin islands there is 
almost perpetual summer, whilst in the farthest of the 
Kuriles the few fishermen who inhabit those barren 
islets experience the climate of the Arctic Circle. But 
in the home provinces snow falls not more frequently 
than in London, and is neither deeper nor more lasting. 
There are two regular rainy seasons, at the end of 
winter and at the end of summer, the latter being 



48 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

characterised by high winds, often of hurricane force. 
The monsoons prevail in the extreme south, but not 
with the regularity they exhibit on the coasts of China. 
Southerly winds predominate throughout the year on 
the central and Pacific coasts, and Japan is distinguished 
for the most part by bright sunny days, with gentle 
alternating breezes at sunrise and nightfall off sea and 
land, rendering a residence there peculiarly delightful 
to those who have experienced the changeable summer 
and dismal winter of some more northern latitudes. 
Save during the inevitable rainy season, and the some- 
what oppressive moist heat of the do-yo, for a fortnight 
in August, the sunshine is almost perpetual from April 
to November. Even in December the days are warm 
and sunny, though the nights become cold. By the 
middle of March the flower-gardens begin to be gay, and 
fruit trees are in blossom. From that time forward the 
" land of sunrise " becomes a land of sunshine, and from 
April to October people dress in white or other thin 
summer garb. 




49 




CHAPTER III. 

NATURAL HISTORY. 

O form a clear impression of any country 
and its people it is essential that one 
should be able to frame a mental 
picture of the animated nature which 
shares with man the possession of 
earth, air, and water in that portion 
of the globe. With not a few regions 
of the habitable world we have but so little in com- 
mon that the effort to realise the life of a resident in 
territory far removed from our British Isles affords no 
appreciable gratification, for the conditions of existence 
differ so widely. 

In the case of Japan, however, there is no such 
disadvantage, as its geographical situation in the tem- 
perate zone provides it with a fauna and flora so much 
akin to our own, that we arc able, in Great Britain, to 
imagine the Mikado's subjects dwelling amid an environ- 
ment not essentially dissimilar. Their summer is our 
summer, their winter our winter, although their day 
is our night The range of temperature is very nearly 
the same. As a result, we find that in Japan they have 

E 



50 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

horses and oxen, cows and pigs, dogs and cats, goats, 
deer, badgers, and foxes. But they also have bears in 
the north, and wild boars and monkeys ramble and 
sport in the mountain ranges of the central and southern 
provinces, all of which creatures are strangers in these 
days to Great Britain. On the other hand, sheep are 
not indigenous, and do not thrive when introduced, as 
the strong Kaya grass and stunted bamboo, on which 
they are apt to browse, speedily kill them. . The native 
horse is a diminutive, but extremely hardy, specimen of 
the equine race, gifted with wonderful powers of endur- 
ance, and fleet for its size, which never exceeds that of 
an English cob, but often endowed with the temper of a 
mustang. These ponies are trained for racing and make 
good fencers. Oxen and cows are employed in agricul- 
ture throughout the realm, though in limited numbers, 
and it is only within the last fifteen years that beef has 
become an article of food. Swine were regarded, up to 
the same period, as unclean, and it was a startling in- 
novation indeed when a restaurant-keeper boldly hung 
out his advertisement of " buta-nabeY' or, as we might 
term it, hashed pork. 

The Chin. Goats are not uncommon, dogs and cats 
are innumerable. The native dogs are of two kinds, so 
utterly unlike in species that they are classed as distinct 
animals. One, the Japanese pug, has been brought to 
this country in such numbers that it is now tolerably 
well-known as a lap-dog. In Japan it is termed chin, 
and is not regarded as a do^, that appellation being 



NATURAL HISTORY. 51 

reserved for the mu, which is a canine pariah, ready to 
yelp at the heels of any stranger, and obtaining a scanty 
sustenance mainly by foraging for himself. In appear- 
ance he is a domesticated wolf. Cats are most of them 
tailless in Japan, resembling the Manx breed, though 
the ordinary long-tailed type is frequently seen. 

Among wild animals, deer are met with in large 
numbers of the small species peculiar to the Japanese 
islands. In several places they are so tame as to roam 
freely through the temple grounds and village streets, 
being sacred from molestation under the aegis of the 
Buddhist creed. But this special protection applies 
only to the localities which are venerated as holy 
ground, and in the mountains deer are hunted freely, 
the flesh being consumed as food. The fox enjoys a 
charmed life, being respected, if not feared, by the 
superstitious farmers of the interior, as the incarnation 
of Inari, the tutelary deity of agriculture. Shrines are 
met with all over the country, at which the farming 
population are prone to do honour to this deity ; the 
prevailing tint of the woodwork being vermilion, the 
little edifices are conspicuous objects on the hill-sides. 
Badgers are regarded as uncanny creatures, and all, save 
the hunters, give them a wide berth. There is scarcely 
a fairy tale in Japanese folklore which has not some 
reference to the exploits of the fox or the badger. 
Smaller animals of the weasel type are numerous, and 
rodents everywhere prevail, the rat being one of the 
signs of the Japanese zodiac. 

E 2 



52 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Bird*. Japanese art has made us very familiar with 
the stork in all attitudes, and it might well be considered 
the king of birds in the Mikado's dominions, for the 
eagle of Japan is not by any means so magnificent a 
creature. The tsuru (Grus leucaucheii) is chiefly to be 
seen in the tall trees which surmount the old castle walls, 
or in the parks adjoining the royal palaces, where it is 
reared. Its body white and glistening, with black tail- 
feathers and wings, and the head marked prominently 
by a spot of crimson, the tsuru compels admiration 
wherever it condescends to alight, and it is not surprising 
that the artist of the far East loves to portray the grace- 
ful bird in every conceivable position, circling around 
the branches of the black pine, or posing in stately 
splendour amid the grottoes and lakelets of some ancient 
pleasure-garden. Standing over five feet in height when 
erect, the tsuru approaches closely in size to the ostrich, 
and is the largest of Japanese feathered creatures, the 
next in size being the shirosagi, a pure white heron, and 
the blue heron, usually a trifle smaller. The bittern is 
sometimes termed the go-i-sagi, or heron of noble rank. 
The snowy heron of the rice-fields is smaller still, but of 
the same graceful family, and very numerous ; in fact, 
Japan is particularly favoured by nature with varieties 
of this bird, the flesh of two or three kinds being highly 
relished as food. Altogether it is computed that at 
least 325 species of birds inhabit the islands of Japan, 
about 100 of which are known in Great Britain, and not 
less than 180 in China. Among the wild birds common 



NATURAL HISTORY. 53 

to our regions as well as to the territory of the Mikado 
may be mentioned the wild goose, of which there are 
eight distinct kinds, mallard, widgeon, teal (four varie- 
ties), wood-pigeon, pheasant (sundry types), woodcock, 
snipe (very numerous, and of several varieties), plover, 
partridge, quail, crow, magpie, falcon, cuckoo, woodpec- 
ker, thrush, lark, nightingale, swallow, owl, and buzzard. 

The raven is quite common, and well sustains in the 
East the character for intelligence borne by the illustrious 
Grip of Chigwell. The swallow comes and goes with 
that unfailing regularity which we remark in our own 
visitors, building inside the houses, instead of under the 
eaves. When telegraph lines were first erected in Japan, 
the swallows promptly perched on the wires in great 
numbers, as though they recognised in them familiar 
objects of more southern latitudes. 

Widgeon, mallard, and teal are met with in all un- 
frequented lakes and marshy localities, the villagers 
capturing them by nets in considerable numbers 
wherever they can meet with a market for them. The 
copper pheasant is a bird of gorgeous plumage, peculiar 
to Japan, and, like the common pheasant and ringed 
pheasant, flourish exceedingly in the central and south- 
ern provinces. For woodcock, snipe, or quail shooting, 
the Japanese islands are a sportsman's paradise. The 
painted snipe are somewhat rare, but common snipe 
abound in the low-lying rice-fields, and their erratic 
flight gives meaning to the expression for a tortuous 
zig-zag path, chi-dori nichi, lit. snipe road. Falconry is 



54 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

as ancient an institution in Japan as with us, dating 
back to the tenth century. The skylark sings as sweetly 
in Japanese as she does in English, as she mounts to 
welcome the morning sun, and people go in parties to 
the woodland groves to listen to the nightingale. The 
cuckoo of the East is in disrepute equally with his 
Western brother on account of his usurpations. A 
magpie in Japan, however, differs considerably from the 
European species, principally in the length and breadth 
of its tail-feathers, which are on so generous a scale that 
flight, in its case, by no means implies celerity. Finches 
and linnets are plentiful, as may be inferred from the 
frequency with which they figure in Japanese drawings. 
The sparrow-hawk is often seen, starlings abound, owls 
hoot in the woods, and sparrows are ubiquitous. The 
last-named brown-feathered mites are quite as spirited 
in their behaviour out in the East as they are on London 
housetops, but they do not at present succeed in accumu- 
lating so much soot on their little bodies in the pure 
atmosphere of Tokio. 

Among feathered creatures which we cannot boast of, 
the Japanese have the mandarin duck, also common in 
China. The splendid colouring of these birds makes 
them beautiful objects in the secluded waters where they 
may occasionally be found, a singular interest attaching 
to them, as in China, from the widespread belief that 
when one of a pair dies the other never mates again, but 
remains widowed to the end of its days, an exemplar of 
conjugal fidelity. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 55 

The domestic poultry-yard is well stocked in Japan, 
game-cocks being not unfrequently trained for the 
arena, and fowls of a great variety being bred for their 
eggs and for the table. Black Spanish, Dorkings, Ply- 
mouth Rocks, and some other well-known types are 
seen the massive Cochin-China breed being as con- 
spicuous as the Bantam. The latter well sustains the 
character for pugnacity which it bears with ourselves, 
and will crow every whit as lustily in a farmyard in 
Nihon as in Norfolk. The common duck and goose are 
both extensively reared, and of late years the " bird of 
seven faces," as they term the turkey, has come into 
favour with poultry fanciers. 

FiMhea. With so extensive a seaboard, the calling of 
a fisherman becomes almost naturally the occupation of 
that large proportion of the inhabitants who dwell near 
the coast The trade is remunerative, for fishing cannot 
be other than successful in waters so well-stocked as 
those which surround and enrich the Japanese islands. 
Every fish of importance known to British cooks is 
found in the markets of Nagasaki and Yokohama, and 
a great many that do not, and probably will not, at any 
time appear prominently on our tables. Especially may 
this be said of whale and shark, both of which are 
frequently captured and eaten in Japan. Served up 
as the native cooks are in the habit of serving them, 
these delicacies not only become tolerable, but relish- 
able to occidental palates, more especially if the con- 
sumer has not been apprised beforehand of the nature 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 

of the viands. The bonito is likewise greatly esteemed 
as food in Japan, but it would not be appreciated 
especially when uncooked on English breakfast-tables. 
Porpoise is often seen in southern markets, and cuttle- 
fish are everywhere eaten with zest. The pearl oyster 
would not be regarded with favour in this country, but 
when baked in its shell it forms the staple luncheon - 
dish at one well-known sea-side resort. Items like 
these on the national bill of fare are introduced from 
choice and not of necessity, for the Japanese waters 
contain salmon, cod, soles, plaice, halibut, herring, mul- 
let, bream, whiting, smelts, ling, carp, trout, and other 
kinds of fish from which to select an ample and varied 
supply of food. Lobsters, crabs, the ordinary edible 
oyster, mussels, crayfish, prawns, and shrimps, are as 
abundant as they are in Great Britain. The most 
esteemed of all the captives of the net, however, is 
the tat (Serranus marginalis}, a fish of brilliant pink 
colour, in shape like an immense roach, without which 
no banquet in Japan would be complete. The black 
variety of the tai family, termed Kurodai, is not so 
valuable. Tai is served in a variety of ways, baked, 
roasted, and boiled, but it is more particularly relished 
when uncooked. The visitor to Japan very speedily 
overcomes any repugnance felt at the outset to raw 
fish, for we take our oysters in the same way, and 
medical men declare that there are decided advantages 
to be gained by doing so. Be this as it may, uncooked 
fish forms an indispensable adjunct in Nihon to any set 



NATURAL HISTORY. 57 

repast. It is the practice, as far as possible, to bring 
fish to market whilst still alive. When the place of sale 
is some distance inland this is effected by carrying them 
in shallow buckets, fitted with lids, and suspended from 
a yoke or shoulder-pole. In the suburbs of the Capital, 
vendors of fish visit their customers daily with live fish 
transported in this manner to the very doors, and even 
in mountainous regions the salesman is to be met with 
rapidly making his way afoot in the direction of remote 
villages. 

In the northern island of Yeso fish so abounds on the 
coasts that it is shipped to China to be used as manure. 
The herring is mainly used in this way, though salmon 
and salmon-trout are not uncommonly treated as of no 
greater value. In recent years a canning industry has 
sprung up in which, though they are not likely to rival 
the American trade, a local company has been engaged 
with considerable success. The sea-slug is taken on all 
the Japanese shores, cut open, dried, and exported to 
China and the Straits Settlements. Even the beau- 
tiful flying-fish, when taken in the net, is brought to 
table, minus its wings. Throughout the Mikado's 
realms, the food of the people is mainly fish, flesh 
being but sparingly eaten. The superabundance of 
those kinds of fish which we most highly esteem in 
England would tend to make the cost of living in 
Japan, it might be supposed, remarkably low, but it 
happens that the particular dishes which the people 
of Nihon most relish arc not those which are the 



58 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

cheapest. Salmon, for example, is not at all prized 
as food, whilst mullet and sea-bream, comparatively 
moderate in price here, are sold at a higher figure in 
Japan. Oysters and whitebait in Japan are to be had 
at very economical rates, and sardine, which almost 
equals river trout in size, is so common and cheap 
that the equivalent of the expression " not worth a 
button" is, in Japanese, "not worth the head of a 
sardine." Mackerel also are extremely plentiful. 

Trees. At no time of the year do the hills and 
valleys of Japan seem to be utterly bare of foliage, as so 
many of the trees are evergreen. The matsu (Pinus 
sylvestris) flourishes everywhere. Red fir clothe all the 
slopes, somewhat sparsely in the south, but heavily 
towards the north. Larch is one of the most valuable 
and abundant of timber trees, much used for junk masts. 
The Cryptomeria japonica borders the high-roads and 
grows luxuriantly throughout Hondo. The Keyaki fur- 
nishes a wood which is exceptionally prized, taking a 
high polish, and not unlike mahogany. It is mainly 
used for ornamental pillars, and in slabs to form the 
toko-no-ma in dwelling-houses. The camphor-tree is 
widely known in the south, furnishing the highly- 
scented wood so much employed in Japanese cabinet 
work. Among trees which are held in high esteem for 
their excellent properties apart from their worth as tim- 
ber are the mulberry (without which Japan could not be 
a silk-producing country), the vegetable wax tree grown 
in the southern regions of Chdshiu and Kiushiu, and 
the giant camellia, from the seeds of which a most ser- 



NATURAL HISTORY, 



59 



viceable oil is extracted in large quantities. The maple 
lends its brilliant colouring, bright green in summer, 
brownish-red and yellow in the autumn, to the landscape 
far and wide, and the ilex is likewise a conspicuous orna- 




CARPENTERS' TOOLS.* 

ment. Among flowering shrubs which exist throughout 
the land in wild exuberance are the azalea, daphne, red 
and white camellia, and rhododendron. In many parts 
the hills are ablaze in spring-time with the scarlet, white, 
and variegated flowers of the azalea, which bloom in such 

Among the tools shown are saws which cut towards the sawyer (14 
and 15), an ink-box instead of a chalk-line (6), and other contrivances 
different to those of Western carpenters. 



60 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

profusion as to form one magnificent many-hued carpet 
of Nature's own weaving. 

Fruit*. Fruit trees are plentiful enough, but the 
yield, excepting in oranges, can hardly be termed abun- 
dant. The persimmon is among the most generous, 
there being several varieties. Pears have much the ap- 
pearance of a large russet apple, and, though juicy, have 
not much flavour to recommend them. The apple itself 
grows in the north, but is a mere crab, both in taste and 
size. Plums, peaches, and apricots are almost as much 
valued for their blossom as for their fruit, and truth to 
tell, the dictum of Sir Rutherford Alcock that, as a rule, 
the fruit of Japan has neither savour nor delicacy, 
though Nature has been bountiful in nearly all else, is 
well founded. The vast scale upon which frugiferous 
trees have been introduced from the United States and 
Europe during the last two decades, by the Agricul- 
tural Department, cannot fail to transform Japan into 
an extensive fruit-growing country, for in the matter of 
climate a more promising field could scarcely be selected. 
As far back as 1872 the experiment of planting fruit 
trees of Californian stock, in gardens within the Capital 
of Tokio, was tried with great success, and the field 
of operations was at once extended to the northern 
island of Yeso, where large farms were laid out near 
Hakodat6 and Sapporo. The progress made in this 
direction is well shown by the condition of the settlers' 
allotments in the Hokkaido and elsewhere. The de- 
sire of the Government to improve the condition of 



NATURAL HISTORY. 61 

the farming population has been in no way more clearly 
proved than by the sale, at purely nominal figures, of 
excellent imported fruit trees and vegetable seeds ; and 
the readiness of the people to respond to the offers of 
assistance thus made is a proof of the progressive spirit 
which animates all classes. 

Chestnuts, walnuts, and fig-trees flourish throughout 
Japan. The sago-palm and banana exist in the south, 
but the climate is not tropical enough for them to pro- 
duce good fruit. The pomegranate is often seen, and 
its fruit is greatly appreciated. In fact it may be said 
that all fruit, good or indifferent, is welcomed in Japan, 
and the taste of the inhabitants induces them to gather 
and consume it before it is fully ripe, in spite of the 
strongly-worded proclamations of the Government, which 
ascribe much of the choleraic dysentery that annually pre- 
vails to the tendency, so universally present, to eat green 
uncooked plums and other stone fruit. Grape-vines 
trail over the fronts of cottages in Japan, as in English 
villages, and are everywhere obtainable. The luscious 
Californian grapes introduced of late years thrive ex- 
ceedingly. 

Flower*. Gardening is an art in Japan which 
has had its imitators in other countries, and its peculiari- 
ties give striking originality to the humblest cottage as 
well as to the palace grounds of the Emperor. The 
ponds, rockwork, tiny bridges, and dwarf trees are so 
well known as to need no more definite allusion here, 
but it may not be so well-known that, in spite of state- 



62 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

ments to the effect that Japanese flowers have no per- 
fume, the wooded hills are not only blest with a pro- 
fusion of wild roses, camellias, orchids, violets, lilies, and 
other general favourites, but that a large proportion of 
them are pleasantly odorous. 

The skill of the cultivator is lavished upon the kiku, 
the world-wide celebrated chrysanthemum, and one of 
the sights of the Japanese Capital is the Dangozaka 
Exhibition of these flowers, where the famous horti- 
culturists annually train the plants upon frames to 
furnish floral designs which have some special signifi- 
cance. Last year a representation of certain events of 
the war in Korea was very cleverly effected in this way. 
Foremost among displays of the chrysanthemum in its 
natural state must always rank that in the Emperor's 
gardens, notably at Akasaka, the palace he occupied 
during the rebuilding of the new one within the castle 
grounds. It would be a revelation to our ordinary 
English gardeners to view the autumnal shows in 
Tokio, for no one who has not had opportunity of 
personally witnessing the results would believe that so 
much can be done with this, until lately, scarcely appre- 
ciated flower. 

Vines. In the neighbourhood of K6fu, in Mid- 
Hondo, vines have been cultivated for the last fifteen 
years upon the foreign system, and excellent claret has 
been produced, which has a reputation throughout Japan. 
The output has not been sufficiently great as yet to 
bring Kofu Medoc into serious competition with French 



NATURAL HISTORY. 65 

brands, but it is by no means impossible that the pro- 
duce of Nihon's vineyards may one day have a vogue 
beyond the limits of the Mikado's dominions. Vines at 
the old Kaitakushi plantations near the Capital are also 
very prolific, and great quantities of grapes are sold for 
food, in addition to the consumption in the wine-press. 

Cereals. Being the staple product of the Japa- 
nese corn-fields, rice holds an unassailable position as 
the most important cereal grown. Five millions of the 
people are more or less engaged in its cultivation, and 
it flourishes luxuriantly south of the 38th parallel. The 
richest fields are to be met with in the Tokaido and 
Sanyodo regions, though it is difficult to say which 
provinces surpass the others in the production of a 
grain so universally in demand. A very large export 
trade has sprung up in the last 20 years in this com- 
modity, the vessels engaged in it loading great quantities 
at Yokkaichi in the Owari Gulf, and at Mitajiri and 
Shimonoseki in the Inland Sea. The figures here given 
afford some idea of the extent to which rice is grown 
in Japan, and of the annual consumption and quantities 
sold to other countries. 

When it is claimed for Japan that it is a self-support- 
ing country, a certain degree of dependence is placed 
upon the rice crop, which in ordinary harvests furnishes 
about five and a tenth bushels per head, taking the entire 
population. Some years are more fruitful, and at other 
times the crop falls short, the Government granaries 
having formerly been employed to store a surplus. Tak- 

F 



66 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

ing the average per head for 365 days, the allotted daily 
supply to each individual would be not less than one 
pint of dry rice, which may be regarded, all ages and con- 
ditions considered, as a liberal allowance. As a matter of 
fact, a large export trade is now done with that grown in 
excess of the national requirements, and Japanese rice 
has attained a popularity abroad which places it on a 
level with the best grown. Up to 1889 the State con- 
trolled this export trade, but it has since been in the 
hands of speculators. Rice grown in Korea and else- 
where is now often imported into Japan, not from 
necessity, but from choice, it being possible to sell 
home-grown rice at a higher figure than the produce 
of neighbouring States can command, and the common 
classes being content, so that it can be obtained at a 
slightly lower price, to eat a mixture of the two 
varieties. 

Land under Cultivation. The land is cultivated 
chiefly by peasant proprietors, tenancy being rare. The 
total area so far surveyed is 83,820,142 acres, divided 
as under : 

PUBLIC LANDS. 

ACRES. 

Crown lands ... ... ... ... 8,957,258 

Used for Government purposes ... 194,384 

Forests 28,866,036 

Open fields . ... 14,290,094 

Miscellaneous 39,95' 



Only 
those 

surveyed 

are 
enumerated. 



Total 52,347,723 



Only 

those 

taxed 

are 

included. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 67 
PRIVATE LANDS. 

ACRES. 

Under cultivation ... ... ... 11,705,678 

Homesteads ... ... ... ... 874,450 

Forests 16,263,760 

Open fields ... ... ... ... 2,575,442 

Miscellaneous ... 53>89 



Total 31,472,419 



1893-4. Total production of rice 206,750,000 bushels. 

Other cereals 79>7 OI >955 > 

Total exports to foreign lands (Rice) 7, 1 25,645 
Other cereals 267,081 

It will be observed that whereas Great Britain im- 
ports immense quantities of grain for her own con- 
sumption, and grows only a fractional part within her 
borders of the total needed to feed the people of the 
British Isles, Japan is able to grow sufficient corn 
for the support of her entire population. That these 
figures are pregnant with meaning for students of 
agricultural statistics will probably be admitted, and 
they are adduced here as pointing in no uncertain 
way to the material prosperity which distinguishes the 
the Meiji era in Japan. 

Whilst rice is the staple food of the people in five- 
sixths of the Mikado's Empire, considerable quantities 
of wheat and barley are also grown for home use, 
and in the extreme north barley-bread is baked, as in 
North China. Millet is frequently eaten in lieu of rice, 
and the peasantry were often, in times past, unable to 

F 2 



68 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

regale themselves on the rice they cultivated, it being 
needed to pay the taxes. But so much consideration 
has been shown by the State in recent years, in its deal- 
ings with the agriculturists, that their condition has 
been greatly ameliorated. It is not pretended that the 
Nihon farmer is the most contented or highly-favoured 
of his class in creation, but it is undeniable that his lot 
under the present Government is much better, in many 
respects, than it was under the old regime. Every en- 
couragement is held out to him to be industrious, and 
he very cheerfully responds to the invitation. Among 
other kinds of grain regularly cultivated in Japan may 
be mentioned maize, which is often seen in the southern 
provinces, and oats and vetches, which are grown as 
cattle provender. 

Vegetables. In some parts of Japan the people are 
almost exclusively vegetarians, of necessity. They are 
too far from the coast for fish to be brought to them, at 
any price which they could afford to pay. Animal food 
is equally out of the question. In such districts the 
bulk of the inhabitants consume rice or millet, with 
dai-kon, the giant white radish, indigenous to the soil, 
and other vegetables of various kinds. The climate of 
Nihon is suitable to many edible plants which do not 
thrive with us. Yams (Satsuma imo} grow abundantly 
in the southern island of Kiushiu, for example, and they 
are found, as the name implies, in greatest perfection in 
the Satsuma country, lat. 31, so celebrated for its pot- 
tery. Another esculent unfamiliar outside the tropics 



NATURAL HISTORY. 69 

is the brinjal, or " egg-plant," whose brilliant purple 
pear-shaped fruit forms, when boiled, a delicate addi- 
tion to the list of available legumes. Tomatoes and 
beets grow with almost the rapidity and plenteous- 
ness of weeds in the warm atmosphere of the south ; 
melons, cucumbers, and gourds likewise flourish exceed- 
ingly. 

The market-gardens of Yokohama and Kobe are 
specially cultivated to meet the foreign demand, and in 
them may be observed every vegetable that is commonly 
met with on European or American dining-tables. 
Most of these have been grown from time immemorial 
in Japan, such as beans, peas, turnips, carrots, spinach,, 
cabbage, onions, lettuce, and radishes, but potatoes, of 
the kinds we grow in such abundance, were until a 
quarter of a century ago almost unknown to the Japan- 
ese. A few of these tubers had been brought from 
Batavia and grown as curiosities, but within more recent 
times the cultivation of the jagatara inio has progressed 
apace. The radish previously alluded to attains great 
size, measuring from 18 inches to 30 inches in length. 
Tradition assigns to this esculent dimensions which are 
enormous ; but tradition in Japan is not always to be 
implicitly relied upon. Over and above all these gifts 
of Nature the Mikado's people possess a great variety 
of edible plants, among which may be named a species 
of fern, the young tops of which are boiled and salted 
for the table, several grasses, and many varieties of the 
mushroom and other fungi. 



70 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Hemp and cotton are extensively grown, so that in 
many instances the farmer is able to provide the 
material for his clothing, and his family weave and 
prepare it for his wear. The sugar-cane is likewise 
very much cultivated in the warmer regions of the 
Sanyddo and Saikaido. 

Without attempting to enumerate all the natural 
products of the Japanese Empire, it is possible that 
sufficient data have been adduced to show that not only 
do the Mikado's people seek to cultivate their land to 
the best advantage, but are ever ready to experiment 
and persevere with the acclimatisation of new forms of 
vegetable and animal life. This willingness has more 
than once led them into extravagancies of a character 
which they are not likely to repeat. At one time the 
craze has been for white rabbits, at another for standard 
roses ; but these spasmodic passions have speedily sub- 
sided, and have given place to a steady determination 
to choose the useful rather than the purely ornamental 
among the commodities brought to their notice. 





CHAPTER IV. 

DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 

RUGALITY has always been a cha- 
racteristic of the Japanese. When 
they make a present to anyone, how- 
ever trifling, the gift is accompanied 
by a symbol of the dried fish and sea- 
weed, on which their ancestors, as 
fishermen, depended mainly for their 
existence. The modern Japanese 
gentleman deems it in no way dero- 
gatory that his forefathers lived on very simple fare, 
and worked hard to obtain it. Probably in no small 
degree must the general freedom from disease be 
ascribed to this old-established inclination towards a 
temperate life which pervades all classes. Plain boiled 
rice is the principal article of diet, and is served at the 
conclusion of every meal, three times a day. All other 
food and condiments are regarded as so many induce- 
ments to consume rice. Needless to say, however, all 
the items on the bill of fare are selected with a judi- 
cious regard to their value as nourishing food. Stimu- 



72 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

lating viands are, for the most part, avoided. In the 
Capital food is served in the European style at a great 
many restaurants, and the larger towns and cities 
throughout the country all have establishments wherein 
some pretensions are made, with more or less justice, to 
cater for guests upon the lines of foreign hotels. Tak- 
ing the proportion which such hotels bear to the great 




HARP, VIOLIN, AND GUITAR. 

mass of those which still adhere to native customs, it 
cannot be said that a general movement has yet set in 
towards an exclusively European diet, and it is infinitely 
better, in all probability, that this change should be still 
farther postponed. 

Table Etiquette. There is considerable attention 
paid to table etiquette among the people of Nihon, and 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 73 

it is as easy to distinguish the boor in that country as 
elsewhere, by his behaviour when at dinner. Whilst 
they are quick to notice that a foreigner has taken a 
little pains, it may be, to accustom himself to native 
manners, they are singularly free from indulgence in the 
temptation, which must often be presented to them, to 
make merry over the stranger's unconscious breaches of 
decorum. One of the customs to which the average 
European is slow to reconcile himself is that of taking 
all wine prior to the advent upon the scene of the boiled 
rice. The request on the part of the guest to be 
permitted to take rice is always interpreted as indica- 
tive of a desire to drink no more, and it is customary 
for the host to beg that the completion of the meal may 
be delayed. It seems to be a complete reversal of the 
practice in vogue with us when we discover that the 
fruit and sweets are served at the outset, although the 
strict meal is inaugurated by soups. Cooked fish of 
various kinds follow, then perhaps an omelette, a fri- 
cassee of chicken, or a dish of raw mullet or sea- 
bream. The universal sake a liquor obtained from 
rice, and of wholesome character is taken indiscrimi- 
nately with all the plats, up to the moment the staple 
article of diet appears, when the wine-cup ceases to 
circulate and the meal quickly terminates with a cup 
of tea. Europeans are apt to look for the rice earlier 
in the repast, and to consider that the imbibition of 
sake on any extensive scale should be deferred until 
such time as some substantial food has been partaken 



74 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

of. To many the flavour of sake is so much of a novelty 
that they would gladly forgo the ceremony of quaffing 
it at all. Others quickly acquire a taste for it, despite 
the rather searching aroma which is peculiar thereto. 
It really contains but little alcohol, though its effects 
on the consumers are often most palpable. It possesses 
the merit, however, as a national drink, that the intoxi- 
cation it produces is quickly evanescent. Moreover, it 
must not be supposed that sakc-dnr\\dr\g is a custom 
universally followed, or that wine is an accompaniment 
of every meal. Many people eschew it entirely, others 
take it only when on a journey, or upon some special 
occasion. Should an antidote be demanded to its 
over-exhilarating properties, it is found at hand in 
the ever-present cup of tea, and this is invariably 
served on the conclusion of any set feast. 

The observance of frugality in an ordinary household 
would not be consistent with a great variety of dishes, 
and thus it happens that in the vast majority of families 
the parents and children sit down to a meal, three 
times a day, which consists of boiled rice, accompanied 
by nothing more extravagant in the matter of cost than 
a broiled fish, vegetable soup, the ingredients of which 
are altogether inexpensive, and pickles of some simple 
character. The consumption of beef, which threatened 
at one time to become general, is now on the wane. 
Poultry is too dear to be ordinarily included in the bill 
of fare. Pork was introduced, and for some time had a 




AN INDUSTRIOUS SEMI-STRESS. 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 77 

great vogue among^the lower classes, but was repugnant 
to aristocratic palates. 

The Ordinary Bill of Fare. Among the national 
dishes which figure at a banquet may be mentioned a 
bean-curd soup, stewed chestnuts, pounded fish baked in 
the form of a ball or roll and cut into slices, lotus roots 
boiled in soy, the tender shoots of the bamboo similarly 
treated, the nasu or egg-plant, radishes, and the inevit- 
able dai-kon, which possesses an odour as powerful in its 
way as the renowned cheese of Limburg. 

Each person has a small table, termed sen, for his 
own separate use, upon which are placed the various 
articles of food served on minute plates. The liquids 
are contained in bowls of porcelain or lacquered-wood, 
red or black. Sets of table equipage may be very 
costly, and a housewife in Japan prides herself on the 
elegance with which she can set out her little tables 
quite as much as the mistress of a cottage in Devonshire 
may do. The bowls are raised to a level with the lips, 
and the chopsticks are used as forks, being held between 
the fingers of the right hand. These chopsticks may 
resemble slender lacquered-wood pencils, or they may 
be of plain deal, slightly pointed at one end. Many 
people carry their own, of silver and ivory, when they 
travel, but a pretty custom at hotels is to split the deal 
only a part of the way in fashioning the sticks, so that 
the guest may break them apart himself when about to 
use them. Thus he may be certain that the wood has 
not previously been put to a similar use. The maid of 



?8 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the inn is usually careful to wrap the strips of wood in 
white paper, and tie them with parti-coloured twine, 
before laying them on the visitor's sen. Waiting at 
table consists in kneeling at a little distance, beside 
the spotless rice-tub, in an attitude of patient expect- 
ancy, for an opportunity to replenish the guest's bowl. 
An average trencherman in Japan will afford this oppor- 
tunity five or six times at a meal, something depending 
on the size of the table-ware employed. 

The daiurios of old had every article of such ware 
emblazoned with the family crest, and the lacquer, in 
particular, was of exquisite quality. 

Tea-<lrink.ing. Green tea is universally consumed 
in Japanese households. It is taken very weak, and 
without milk or sugar. The infusion is made so quickly 
as to be scarcely an infusion at all, and tea is never 
allowed to "stand." It is refreshing and stimulating 
when taken in this way, and is offered to every way- 
farer as he passes through towns and villages. Pay- 
ment is never demanded, but he who would accept the 
offer without leaving some slight recompense on the 
tray, however trifling in amount, would be regarded 
as a churl indeed. When the traveller is disposed to 
rest awhile the cliaya landlord will usually invite him 
through to the verandah at the rear, facing the orna- 
mental grounds, and will then serve a separate tray of 
tea and sweetmeats. For such civility it is usual to 
make an acknowledgment of a small silver coin, which 
may be as low in value as our threepenny-piece. 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 79 

It has been said that European cravings are rarely 
satisfied by Japanese dishes. A man is prone to feel 
that he has wasted his time in the effort to appease 
hunger, and that he must search for the constituents 
of a " square " meal in some other direction. Doubt- 
less it takes time to accustom a stomach which craves 
for the flesh-pots of Europe and America to the sim- 
plicity of Japanese food, but had the individual no 
choice between such food and starvation he would dis- 
cover that after a few days his appetite had become 
reconciled to the light viands provided, and that he 
could thrive and do excellent work thereupon. 

Eggs are extensively eaten, and a present is often 
made of a box of fifty eggs, neatly packed in sawdust 
or salt. When hard-boiled they are kept in stock at all 
wayside refreshment booths, their sustaining qualities 
on a long march being cordially recognised. 

DreMM. The costume of the Japanese people, taken 
as a whole, has not greatly changed. The Government 
having ordered officials to wear European dress when 
on duty, led to the adoption of foreign costume to a 
certain extent, but the old-fashioned garments are still 
worn in private, and the great mass of the inhabitants 
cling to the habiliments of yore. These consisted, for 
men, of a muslin loin-cloth, a shirt of cotton or silk, 
and, in cold weather, an under-waistcoat, also of cotton. 
Above this comes the kimono, which is a gown hanging 
straight from the shoulders and confined at the waist 
by a belt of thick silk. When very cold, one or more 



So ADVANCE JAPAN. 

wadded gowns arc worn in addition, and the costume 
is not regarded as complete without the hakama, or 
divided skirt, which is tied over all by cords around 
the waist, and the haori, or coat. Strictly speaking, 
the hakama is a dress of ceremony, and is often laid 
aside when the wearer reaches the privacy of his own 
apartments. It has in recent years been much worn 
by female pupils of foreign schools, though originally 
part of man's attire only. The Jiaori is a coat or cloak, 
tied in front by a knotted silk cord. Both Iiakama and 
Jiaori are usually of excellent quality. Black silk is 
used for the Jiaori, bearing the wearer's crest on back 
and sleeves, and striped material for the hakama. On 
the feet are worn tabi, a low sock just ankle-high, 
with a compartment like those in gloves for the great 
toe. These tabi are of blue or white cotton, strength- 
ened on the sole. Straw sandals are worn about the 
house, in shape like our slippers, but with a thong to 
be passed between the toes. In the matted rooms the 
tabi form the only footgear, and people who do not 
require to walk far use geta, wooden clogs which fasten 
on the foot by thongs in the same way as the sandals. 
On the head it was usual to wear no covering whatever, 
in former times, the cranium being shielded in summer 
from the fierce sun by a fan. Sometimes a large straw 
hat was employed, particularly on long journeys, but now 
hats or caps of foreign pattern are fashionable. Indoors 
the kimono is often exchanged for a yukata, or bath-gown, 
in which the Japanese gentleman sits at his ease before 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 83 

or after his ablutions. These are invariably performed 
towards the close of the day, in a large tub containing 
water heated as warm as the hand will bear by a boiler 
underneath. Whilst in old days, prior to the Meiji era, 
the Japanese gentleman always wore his two swords 
when out of doors, laying them beside him, or on a 
rack, when in the house, he now carries nothing in his 
belt of a more formidable character than his tobacco- 
pipe and pouch. 

Men of the lower classes have a coat which displays 
at the back an immense ideograph indicative of their 
occupation, or it may be of their master's name. Car- 
penters are invariably thus distinguished. The covering 
for the thighs (inomohiki} is tight-fitting, and a gaiter 
is also worn, usually of dark blue cotton. A hat shaped 
like an inverted punch-bowl, of straw covered with blue 
material, and warafi, or straw sandals, which are worn 
by 80 per cent, of the nation, complete the workmen's 
dress. The " coolies " wear as little of anything, the 
greater part of the year, as the police rules will allow. 
When out of sight of a town and its patrol, they strip 
off all but the loin-cloth. As for the youngsters, there 
are no trammels whatever to their perfect enjoyment 
of a state of nudity. Hand-ball and other games are 
played in the roadways, even by adults, with the inno- 
cent delight of children. When it becomes necessary to 
take the little ones out visiting, the clothing is almost a 
miniature copy of that of their elders, and it is but just 

(J 2 



84 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

to say of them that they resist the invitation to wear 
it as long as they possibly can. It not un frequently 
happens, in their wanderings, that they become lost, 
and then the guardian of the peace has to search 
them for the metal labels which he knows will be 
found suspended somewhere or other from their small 
persons, giving their names and addresses. 

The women's costume differs in no great degree 
from that of the men. A couple of aprons or short 
petticoats are worn beneath the kimono, and a cord 
round the waist keeps so much of the attire in place. 
Half-a-dozen kimonos are often worn one over the 
other in winter, but the shape of all is exactly alike, 
and the number can only be determined by counting 
the layers where they are visible at the neck. Out- 
side all is worn the enormous belt, eighteen inches wide, 
and thirteen feet long, which winds round and encloses 
the feminine form so completely that the dimensions of 
the waist must be left entirely to conjecture. In the 
hair, the dressing of which is a matter of the utmost 
solicitude, large metal pins with coral head-pieces, or 
tortoise-shell combs and skewers, are indispensable. 
Such ornaments never go out of fashion for long at 
a stretch, so that they may be regarded as portable 
property having a tangible value. As to cost, an 
obi alone will often entail an outlay of ten or fifteen 
pounds sterling, and a lady of good position, without 
being at all extravagantly dressed, will carry fifty pounds 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 87 

worth of clothing alone, without counting jewellery, 
upon her somewhat petite figure. But the Japanese 
husband is proud to see his wife suitably attired, even 
if he wears shabby garments himself. It is not at all 
a matter for regret that the wave of fashion, which set 
in about the year 1886, in favour of Parisian or Berlin 
modes, has already receded. The ancient dress of 
Japanese ladies was well suited to their style of 
beauty and graceful manners. The European dresses 
could not detract from their personal charms of feature, 
voice, and gesture, but it hampered their movements, 
and they endured agonies through the tight shoes 
which they insisted upon wearing. 

For years the Empress set her face against the inno- 
vation, but she relaxed her opposition at last, and ap- 
peared with her Court ladies habited in M. Worth's 
creations on a public occasion in 1886. From that time 
the rage for foreign costume became uncontrollable, and 
during the next three or four years a Japanese lady was 
a dowdy unless garbed in the robes of the Occident. 
The reaction came, and a complete return to the 
original costume is by no means improbable. 

The Household. In Japan the marriage relation 
still partakes more of the nature of a civil contract than 
a religious one, though of late years the latter phase has 
entered considerably into the ceremony. Formerly no 
one was allowed to marry out of his rank. A gentleman 
of the military class could not ally himself with the 
daughter of a merchant or trader, rior could the trader 



88 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

go a grade lower and marry an Eta maiden, whose rank 
was the least respected in the social scale. The old feudal 
chieftains and nobles could not marry without the per- 
mission of the Court. 

It would not be fair to judge of the position of a 
Japanese matron by any standard which we have in 
Europe. In the old regime she was head of the house- 
hold, but held a position subordinate, nevertheless, to 
that of her husband. She was the Oku-sama or 
honoured mistress of the interior, but, save at the 
evening meal, she could not sit down, or her children 
either, with the Shujin, or master. An amelioration 
has been brought about in the past few years, in which 
the Empress Haruko has had no small share. She 
is a sturdy champion of the rights of her country- 
women. 

The Japanese wife is now, among all women in the 
East, the most respected and free. She is always a 
careful housekeeper, and she excels as a tender, loving 
mother. Her bright disposition, economical manage- 
ment of money, and perfect cleanliness and order in 
her household duties, ensure for her an honoured posi- 
tion. It has ever been a maxim in Japan that the 
direction and scope of the wife's duties are altogether 
internal, while those of the husband are external. As the 
century draws to a close the position of womankind in 
Japan is becoming more and more elevated. The high 
officials of the Empire now constantly appear in society 
with their wives, and mingle freely in European circles. 



DIET, DRESS, AND MANNERS. 



89 



The innate refinement and natural demeanour of 
Japanese ladies is always a subject of comment by 
visitors privileged to meet them. Children are re- 
garded in Japan as a great blessing, but large families 
are seldom to be found. The average household 
throughout the country is a trifle over five in number. 
Tobacco-smoking is very popular in Japan, among all 
classes, high and lo\v, male and female. The plant was 




TOBACCO POUCH AND PIPE-CASE. 



introduced by the Portuguese at the beginning ot the 
seventeenth century. The pipes are from six to ten 
inches in length, and contain but a very small quantity of 
the prepared leaf, which is cut very fine, and smokes like 
Latakia. The bowl is no larger than an acorn-cup. One 



go ADVANCE JAPAN. 

or two whiffs exhaust its contents, the ashes arc knocked 
out into the brazier, more tobacco is inserted, and the 
operation of imbibing (the Japanese word is tabako wo 
nomu, lit. to drink tobacco) is repeated again and again. 
A guest is at once invited to smoke on paying a visit, 
and ladies draw up to either side of the fireplace with 
their little pipes often of silver for an enjoyable after- 
noon gossip. Cigars are now in fashion among men, 
and cigarettes are also consumed by millions every 
month in the larger cities. The light Japanese leaf, 
which is produced all over the southern provinces, lends 
itself admirably to cigarette-smoking, but for cigars it is 
not such a signal success, doubtless owing to the mode 
of preparation not being so perfectly understood as it is 
in Havana or Manila. This knowledge will come to the 
Japanese tobacco-grower in due time. 




~") 




CHAPTER V. 

EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 



VERYWHERE the idea has pre- 
vailed that down to very recent 
times the real monarch of Japan 
lived a life of complete isolation in 
his palace at Kioto, while the affairs 
of Government were entirely in the 
hands of a pseudo-sovereign, termed 
the Tycoon. It is high time that the general reader 
should be disabused of so altogether erroneous an idea. 
From the time the first Mikado commenced his reign, 
six hundred years before the Christian era, down to the 
time when Henry the Second sat on the English throne, 
the Tens/it of Japan was an absolute personal ruler over 
the people of Nihon. In Yoritomo's day the Tens/ii 
consented to take a less active part in matters of State, 
and deputed the Shogun (miscalled by Europeans, at a 
later date, the Tycoon) to perform the principal military 
duties. Yoritomo, being an ambitious man, conceived 
the notion of elevating himself and his office of Shogun 



92 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

to a position one stage above that occupied by the terri- 
torial lords of the provinces. As the right hand of the 
Emperor he held the key of the position, and in the 
course of a few years he attained such an ascendancy as 
to achieve, to a great extent, the object of his ambition. 
He succeeded in making himself almost as powerful as 
the true monarch, but he remained a subject, and there- 
in lay the essential distinction which has at all times 
been preserved and recognised in Japan between the 
position of the Shogun and the Tenshi. 

Yoritomo strengthened his position continually by 
bold achievement in the field against the enemies of his 
country, and sturdily held his own against the other 
daimios from among whom he had risen, and who were 
naturally not a little jealous of his power. When he 
died he bequeathed to his successors in the office of 
Shdgun an unquestioned supremacy in the Councils of 
State, and this was maintained with almost unvarying 
ability by those who followed him, until, in 1868, the 
reigning Emperor abolished the office entirely. 

During those seven centuries which intervened be- 
tween the creation of the post of Shogun and its aboli- 
tion, there were periods in which the actual Emperor, 
from his retired position at Kioto, thought fit to assert 
himself, and to take a prominent part in the control. 
Though His Majesty made no public appearance on the 
scene, his influence was paramount when he chose to 
exert it. Some of the Emperors were energetic, some 
were indifferent, and upon the attitude of the real 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 93 

Sovereign naturally depended that of his vicegerent. 
A Tenshi who was disposed to be something more 
than a mere figure-head, was sure to curtail, for the 
time being, the arrogance of his chief subject. On the 
other hand, a monarch who was indisposed to exertion 
would permit the affairs of his realm to glide along 
without personal interference with the stately figure at 
the helm. 

Once it is comprehended that the Shogun, or " Ty- 
coon," exercised no control prior to A.D. 1192, and that 
the office was finally abolished in 1 868, it is tolerably 
easy to follow the course of Japanese history, and to 
trace the influence which has been exercised upon the 
people of modern Nihon by the events of their earlier 
years. 

There is no doubt that in Japan we have a noteworthy 
example of the benefit to be derived from acquiescence 
in the principle of " the divine right of kings." For 
more than 25 centuries the Japanese have been faithful 
to the traditions of their ancestors, and have steadfastly 
acknowledged their allegiance to the lineal representative 
of their first Emperor. He was named Jinmu Tennd, 
son of the Heavenly Light-giver Ama Terasu in other 
words, the Sun Goddess, Tenshiu Daijin, and exercised 
sway, at the outset, not on the mainland of Hondo, but 
in the southern island of Kiushiu. He subsequently 
crossed over to the neighbourhood of Hiroshima, and 
after suppressing the lawless tribes of that region pushed 
on to Yamato province, wherein is situated the ancient 



94 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

city of Xara. This is not mere tradition, but authentic 
history, for there is no doubt that the dynasty, of which 
Jinmu was the progenitor, dates from the year 663 
B.C. This unchallenged claim suffices to warrant the 
present Emperor's contention, recorded in a procla- 
mation some years ago, that his house, " from Jinmu 
Tennd on to the present day, has ruled in Dai-Nippon, 
according to the will of the gods." As such, moreover, 
it is indisputably the oldest dynasty on earth, and 
we need not go so far back as to take into considera- 
tion a further declaration that " the divine ancestors of 
Jinmu Tenno laid the foundations of the world." 

.liniiiii Tenno. Kashiwabara, near Nara, was the 
spot where Jinmu set up his capital (660 B.C.). It had 
occupied him three years to voyage from Mimidzu in 
Hiuga, on the east coast of Kiushiu, to Naniwa, the 
modern Osaka, for he appears to have been engaged in 
conquering the aborigines en route. 

Jinmu is declared to have received from Tensho 
Daijin a circular mirror and a sword, as symbols of Im- 
perial power. These he carefully preserved and handed 
down to his successor. In this way they reached the 
tenth Emperor, who deposited them in a temple which 
he built in honour of Tensho Daijin, near the present 
town of Yamada in Ise". Consequently, the Ise temple 
has come to be the Mecca of the Japanese nation, and 
dates from about 35 B.C. 

Thousands of pilgrims visit Ise yearly, and in the old 
days the Emperors did so likewise, more particularly 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 95 

upon the eve of great undertakings. The mirror re- 
mains the symbol of the deity in that form of worship 
denominated Sliinto, which is the state religion of Japan, 
and, literally translated, means " the law of the gods." 
Jinmu was a powerful and enlightened monarch, who 
encouraged agriculture, and gave to his people their 
cereals, together with hemp, garlic, and ginger. The 
eleventh Mikado, Sujin Tenno, was contemporaneous 
with Jesus Christ, and conferred immense benefits on 
his people, notably the storage of water in reservoirs, to 
facilitate rice-culture, and the construction of canals. 
Jingu-Kogo, often erroneously declared to have been 
Japan's only feminine ruler, was really the consort of 
the fourteenth Mikado, and accompanied him on his 
warlike expeditions. She urged upon him the conquest 
of Korea, and after his death undertook it herself, as 
regent, during her son's minority, and was supported by 
her counsellor, Takeno-uchi, then an old man of eighty- 
two. She fitted out a fleet, and, clad in man's armour, 
commanded it in person. The kings of the peninsula, 
one after another, made submission, and offered costly 
presents as an inducement to her to depart. She brought 
away all the books she could find, among other spoils, 
and thus gave to her people their earliest literature. 
Buddhism and Confucianism followed in due course, as 
also the Chinese written language. Animals and plants 
were next imported from the Middle Kingdom, and 
here we have the origin of that close connection be- 
tween China and Japan which induced people to regard 



96 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the two peoples as identical. The link established be- 
tween the Korean peninsula and Japan proved the high- 
way for the introduction of that civilisation which had 
its root in Buddhism. Japan became more or less 
dominated by Chinese arts, industries, medicine, and 
even political institutions. That old warrior spirit of 
Yamato-damashi which had animated Japan's people 
became sicklied o'er with a pale cast of Chinese fashion 
and effeminacy. The Sovereigns lost their energy and 
degenerated into dreamers, more than one having ex- 
changed his throne for the shelter of the Buddhist 
cloister. 

BuddhiMin Introduced. The early history of 
Japan, in fact, resembles in many respects that of our 
own islands, for although the territory of the Tenshi has 
never been successfully invaded by a hostile force, there 
was often much internecine strife. The parallel might 
be drawn very closely, but it will suffice for the present 
purpose to allude to a few salient points of resemblance 
which appear to show that the Japanese people have 
marched to theirexistinghigh position among the civilised 
peoples of the world by a path in which they encountered 
many of the difficulties which beset our own ancestors. 

The period embraced by the Saxon Heptarchy in 
Britain was a period in which Japan likewise underwent 
many vital changes. Though they experienced nothing 
like that Danish invasion which our Saxon forefathers 
were fated at that epoch to unsuccessfully battle with, the 
same century witnessed an irruption into Japan, as we 




II 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 99 

have seen, of the not less potent because peaceful forces 
of Buddhism, and the Japanese have been subject in 
great measure to the humanising influences of that faith 
ever since. Buddha's doctrines have held a certain sway, 
particularly over the female portion of the population, 
for over a thousand years, though the religion of the 
Mikados has always been Shinto. At the time when 
Catholic missionaries were Christianising the Kingdom 
of Northumbria, Buddhist missionaries from China and 
Korea were converting to Buddhism large numbers of 
the people of Japan. Whilst at the Whitby Council of 
A.D. 664, it was decided that the priests of the English 
Church should adopt the Roman tonsure, the priests 
of Japan, at about the same period, adopted the plan of 
shaving the head altogether. Just as the influence of 
King Oswy was thrown into the scale in Northumbria, in 
favour of the views of the Romish Church, the announced 
preference of the Empress Gemmei for the rites of the 
new religion aided very materially to establish, in Japan, 
the observances of a faith which came, by a roundabout 
way, from India. 

Japan was indebted to India at about the same date 
for the introduction of the cotton-plant, some seeds 
having been given to the farmers of Mikawa pro- 
vince by wrecked Hindoo sailors in gratitude for the 
kindness shown them. This trait in the character of 
the inhabitants of the Japanese coasts has distinguished 
them throughout their history. 

Early Writing*. A little later, in the eighth century, 

H 2 



ioo ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the system of writing termed the Katakana was invented, 
as a modification of the cumbrous Chinese system of 
innumerable ideographs. The Katakana symbols are 
merely modifications of Chinese square characters, to the 
number of forty-five only, and in these, with two accents, 
every syllable of the Japanese tongue can be perfectly 
expressed. 

Oranges were introduced from China, and gold and 
silver were first successfully mined in Japan, in the same 
century. 

The influence which Chinese literature exercised at 
this epoch upon the minds of the Japanese people was 
immense. The Chinese calendar was adopted in its 
entirety, and the form of government was largely 
modelled upon that of the neighbouring Empire. The 
offices of Dai-jo-dai-jin (Great Council's Chief) with 
Sa-dai-jin, Udaijin, and Nadaijin (Vice-Presidents of 
the Left and Right, and of Home Affairs) were then 
created, and have been retained throughout as the 
highest positions in the Empire. (The left, in Japan, it 
will be observed, ranks higher than the right.) China 
was accustomed for centuries, indeed, to act as preceptor 
to Japan, the influence so wielded having had its origin 
in the transplantation of Buddhism. We have a close 
parallel to this in the effects traceable in Great Britain to 
the employment of Latin, and the spread of the Christian 
faith. Chinese words, only slightly modified, form as 
important a part of Japanese speech as do words derived 
from the Latin tongue in the English language of the 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 101 

day. The technology of science in the Far East is all 
of Chinese origin ; and it exhibits the antiquity of 
Chinese philosophy in a strong light when we see that 
the resources of the language of the Middle Kingdom 
have proved equal to the modern demand ; there seems 
to have been no lack of a Chinese term, at any time, by 




THE CLASSIC DANCE. 

which to designate a modern European Science, or of 
expressions by which to convey a fairly accurate idea of 
its practical application. 

Not only did Japan obtain her earliest ideas of science 
and her literature from her gigantic neighbour, but she 



102 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

was inoculated with her passion for art from the same 
source. Chinese art has left its mark on that of Japan, 
whether it be in the direction of painting and sculpture, 
or of those industrial and mechanical channels of its 
application wherein the pupil has to some extent out- 
shone the master. Japan has refined and idealised upon 
a foundation which had its origin in the more robust 
realisations of the early Chinese masters, and the evidence 
of her success is clearly marked in the exquisite creations 
which figure in the collections of connoisseurs. 

Just as the Japanese acquired a knowledge of various 
arts and sciences a thousand years ago from the Chinese, 
and having absorbed all the information obtainable, 
began to improve upon the methods of application, so 
we, in times past, have owed much to the civilisation of 
older nations, and continue to advance in the skilful 
adaptation of principles which were familiar to the 
people of ancient Egypt, or of Greece and Rome. In 
the same way that they became the ready pupils of 
China in the early days of the Christian era, the Japa- 
nese have, in later years, become the diligent students 
of Occidental progress, and already have done their ut- 
most to better the instruction. In some respects they 
have succeeded, and the effort, under any circumstances, 
does credit to their energy and farsightedness. 

Heroes of Old. Descending to a later period of the 
history of Nihon we reach the stage when the fine arts 
languished, and the nation was torn by centuries of 
war. 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 103 

In fact, a remarkable resemblance in their effects might 
be traced in the continual feuds of the Taira and Mina- 
moto clans to our own Wars of the Roses. The two 
Japanese houses thus designated were also known as the 
Hei and Gen families. In the tenth and eleventh cen- 
turies they virtually divided the country into two fac- 
tions, every inhabitant owning allegiance to one or other 
of these two powerful claimants for the supremacy. In 
turn they seized the ruling power and completely over- 
awed the reigning Mikado's Government. The Mikado 
of their time was himself prone to play off one clan 
against the other, as a means of preventing either of 
them from acquiring strength sufficient to overthrow the 
Throne. Instead of the feuds of the York and Lan- 
caster clans of the Far East terminating, however, in the 
ascendancy, as with us, of a potentate who united both 
houses after 30 years of conflict the Japanese warred 
against each other for more than half a century, and 
the Taira clan was in the end annihilated. But there 
was no peace for the survivors, for they were attacked 
by other clans and succumbed in their turn to superior 
force. The Mikado of those days, it has been said, 
was only a puppet in the hands of these factions, but 
he at all events managed adroitly enough to use one 
family's power to punish the arrogance of the other, 
so that if he could not keep peace within his borders 
he at all events employed the rivals in turn in fighting 
his battles. 

i or it onto. Kiyomori was head of the Taira clan in 



104 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the twelfth century, and being a man of great energy and 
ambition, he perpetually strove to obtain places at Court 
for his own family and adherents. For three years the 
clans fought for possession of the Sovereign's person. 
In 1159 A.I), the Tairas triumphed, and the prominent 
men of the other side were all put to death, including 
the head of the clan, Yoshitomo. The chief's son, how- 
ever who bore the name, afterwards so celebrated in 
the history of Japan, of Yoritomo was interceded for 
by Kiyomori's mother, and the lad's life was spared. 
Yoshitsun6, his half-brother, was also spared, and the 
two eventually 30 years later overthrew the Taira 
supremacy. In 1181 Kiyomori died, and the Taira 
power began to wane. Yoritomo mustered the Mina- 
moto faction, and gathering strength in the Kuanto 
region they marched westward under the command of 
Yoshitsun in one grand series of triumphs, culminating 
at Dan-no-ura, close to the town of Shimonoseki, in 
a naval battle in which a large proportion of the Tairas 
and their allies were drowned. 

Relation of Shogun to Mikado* Yoritomo's suc- 
cess, as the leading spirit of the times, was now un- 
bounded, and he rapidly consolidated his power in the 
KuantO) practically making himself master of all the 
centre and north of Hondo. He set up his headquarters 
at Kamakura, not far from Yokohama, a place of great 
attraction to this day by reason of its historical associa- 
tions. Facing the sea-shore, this town is completely 
enclosed on the landward side by a semicircle of hills 



EARLY HISTORY Ot THE NATION 105 

through which the roads communicating with the interior 
are driven in deep artificial cuttings. Close by is the 
colossal bronze figure of Buddha (Dai-butsu, or the great 
image), and the region is one which possesses a vast 
amount of interest for travellers. Yoritomo made 
Kamakura the capital of Eastern Japan, and trans- 
formed a mere village into a military depot, with 
extensive barracks and a palace for himself. But few 
traces of these now remain, yet the effects of his occu- 
pancy are still felt, for it was here that the great warrior 
entered upon a career which had very far-reaching 
results. He induced the reigning Emperor, as already 
recorded, to create him Sei-i-iai-sJwgun literally "bar- 
barian-subjugating-generalissimo," and he was thus 
empowered, as Commander-in-Chief of the forces of the 
Mikado, to exercise control over the provinces which he 
had already subjugated. His office was to preserve 
peace and tranquillity, and he and all his successors in 
the post, down to Hitotsubashi the last of his line, 
owned allegiance to the Emperor and was invested 
with his powers by the Sovereign. This substantial 
domination of the Shogun over all the daimios, or here- 
ditary chieftains of the land, gave rise to the notion 
that Japan had a dual monarchy. One Sovereign was 
supposed to be the temporal head, and the other the 
" spiritual " head of the realm. The impression was 
altogether erroneous, though the line of Shoguns, from 
Yoritomo downwards, wielded such vast power as su- 
preme heads of the military organisation of the Empire, 



106 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

that strangers might well be excused if they arrived 
at the conclusion that the potentate they alone came 
in contact with was the actual Sovereign. 

Yoritomo's sons succeeded him, but with them the 
Minamoto clan came to the end of its shortlived 
supremacy, and the Hojo family, which had marched 
in line with the Minamotos, took the chief position. 
But they never held the office of Shogun in their grasp, 
for it was conferred, in default of a direct succession 
among the Minamotos, upon the house of Fujiwara, the 
family traditions of which have been maintained with 
untarnished brilliancy, in the annals of Japan, to the 
present time. 

Yoritomo's camp at Kamakura practically ceased to 
exist after an attack made upon it in A.D. 1333, and the 
Hojo family established its chief seat at Odawara, a 
castle town only 37 miles from Yokohama, and actually 
visited by thousands who probably are unaware that it 
was for some time the centre of the chief military power 
of Japan. 

Yoritomo, the equivalent in prowess of Richard Cceur 
de Lion, was dealing death to the enemies of Japan in 
the same year that our enthusiastic monarch was head- 
ing the Third Crusade. Yoritomo and his half-brother 
Yoshitsune are perhaps the most notable heroes of 
Japanese history, and their exploits have served to 
animate the poet and the painter for centuries past. 
The paper currency of the Japanese Empire, at the 
present day, is embellished with representations of 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 107 

events which are famous in the annals of Dai Nihon, 
wherein these and other mail-clad warriors performed 
prodigies of valour. A suit of armour was as much a 
necessity in those days with the Japanese knight as 
it was with the followers of our Plantagenets, and one 
wonders how men were found to wear the weighty and 
inconvenient panoply of ancient Nihon, for a Japanese 
helmet even alone was a formidable affair. 

Yoritomo and his successors well sustained the char- 
acter, among the neighbouring States, for bold achieve- 
ment, which even at that period had been acquired by 
his nation, in virtue of their frequent raids upon adjoin- 
ing territory, notably upon Korea, and the English can 
scarcely have been a greater terror to the inhabitants of 
Normandy than were the Japanese for some centuries, off 
and on, to the people of Korea and their Celestial allies. 
The Ashikaga clan held the office of Shdgun for 240 
years, but it was wrested from them by Ota Nobunaga, 
another of that long line of mediaeval heroes whom 
Japanese romantic literature delights to honour. The 
real monarch temporarily came to the front in the per- 
son of the Emperor Godaigo, who succeeded for a space 
of two years, in personally conducting the affairs of his 
country. In A.D. 1335 the administration again fell 
into the hands of the Shdgun, and so remained during 
the 533 years which followed, until his deposition in 
1868. 

The most famous among the leaders of the sixteenth 
century, a time when Japanese prestige ranked very high 



io8 ADVANCE fAPAN. 

among the nations of the distant Orient, was Toyotomi 
Hideyoshi, who carved out with his sword an ineffaceable 
record on the history of the East. Hideyoshi it was who, 
under the appellation of Taiko-sama, translatable as 
" Great General," visited Korea, and fought desperately 
for several years at intervals against the owners of the 
soil and the Chinese who had gathered there to assist 




IYEYASU'S CASTLE AND MOAT AT TOKIO. 

them. Ping- Yang, since so celebrated as the scene of a 
great Japanese victory, was likewise, in Hideyoshi's time, 
the battle-ground on several occasions, and it was not 
until death relieved the Korean King of his indefati- 
gable enemy that that monarch knew what it was to 
breathe freely. Hideyoshi bestowed the office of Shogun 
which he never held himself, though he attained to 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 109 

supreme military power upon Tokugawa lyeyasu, and 
gave him control of the eight provinces of the Kuanto, 
directing him to take up his position at Yedo, which 
has since become a city of such renown, as the Mikado's 
present Capital. 

Advent of Christianity. It was during the Ashi- 
kaga period that the reigning monarch received a 
visit from the Portuguese Mendez Pinto, who was in 
due time followed by Dutch and English traders. 
Christianity was obtaining a firm hold of the Japan- 
ese people, after its introduction in 1542, and for some 
decades it bade fair to become the popular religion, for 
Ota Nobunaga, the Shogun before alluded to, hated 
Buddhism with a most pronounced hatred, and fostered 
Christianity as a competitor therewith, until his atten- 
tion was called to what was believed to be the seditious 
teaching of the Jesuit missionaries. From that time the 
fate of Christianity was sealed, for the edicts against it 
which followed were so severe as to afford it no oppor- 
tunity of flourishing for nearly three centuries after- 
wards. 

It was, however, in the early days of the Tokugavva 
supremacy that the native Christians were subjected to 
actual persecution. The Christian faith was proscribed 
in Japan from A.D. 1614 to 1868. For 23 years the 
converts were subjected to all kinds of penalties until in 
1637 an attack was made on the stronghold of Shimabara, 
in which they had entrenched themselves, and 30,000 
persons were killed or banished. Notwithstanding these 



no ADVANCE JAPAN. 

severe measures, there were many who clung to the 
faith, and it was found still surviving, in the locality of 
Nagasaki, when the edicts were withdrawn on the pre- 
sent Emperor's accession, 27 years ago. 

Emigration Prohibited. It was at the period of 
these religious conflicts, in 1621 A.D., that the Japanese 
were forbidden to leave their country, and the building 
of ships was limited to those of small size in order that 
the sailors should not be able longer to navigate the 
ocean. Prior to this, large Japanese vessels had traded 
to India and the Straits Settlements. 

In 1624 A.D. all foreigners were expelled from Japan, 
excepting the Dutch, who were strictly confined to the 
small tract of land in Nagasaki harbour known as 
Deshima. There can be little doubt that the action of 
the Jesuit missionaries had in no small degree con- 
tributed to bring about this revulsion of feeling. The 
age was one of religious intolerance, when things were 
done " to the honour of God " which utterly disgraced 
the Christian faith. We find a parallel in our own 
annals in the years 1554-58. That very religious zeal 
which the Jesuits extolled was calculated to abase 
Christianity in the eyes of so intelligent a nation as the 
Japanese. The mutual hostility of the Christian orders 
excited their wonder, and the evil lives led by foreign 
visitors to their shores, at Nagasaki and Hirado, could 
not but fill the Japanese with amazement at the incon- 
sistencies of professing Christians. The foreign traders 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. in 

bought Japanese children and sold them again as 
slaves in Manila and Macao. Human flesh was cheap 
in those dark days of the Japanese Empire, but the 
greatest danger to the State, in the eyes of the ruling 
powers, lay in the fact that obedience to temporal laws 
was not inculcated by the missionaries, and that, on the 
contrary, the converts were taught to despise the 
authority of parents and to set at naught the tenets of 
their ancestors. 

The fear lest the native Christians should, through 
foreign influence, become traitors to their country was 
the principal cause of their persecution. As lyeyasu 
said at the time : " If my dynasty perishes in con- 
sequence of civil wars, this is a disgrace which only 
falls upon me ; but if only an inch of our country were 
to fall into foreign hands, the whole nation would have 
cause to be ashamed." 

Kuitiai Khan's Invaaion. It was during the 
period when the Hojo clan ranked highest, in the year 
1281 A.D., that Kublai Khan, the great Mongol con- 
queror, sought to overwhelm Japan, and was beaten off 
just as the Spaniards were driven away from England 
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth three centuries later. 
Kublai Khan fitted out his armada on the coast of 
Fuh-Kien, not far from Foochow, and sought to make 
a descent upon the Mikado's south-west dominions. His 
forces numbered 100,000 men, of three nationalities, 
Chinese, Mongolian, and Korean. Several battles were 



H2 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

fought, but a storm finally dispersed the fleet, and the 
Japanese, taking the ships in detail, chased and harassed 
them so that scarcely any escaped to tell the tale. The 
Mongols had on several occasions claimed submission 
from Japan, and Kublai, who had conquered every other 
nation within reach, felt confident that he could subdue 
the islanders. He discovered that he had to deal with 
an unconquered race, and after the destruction of the 
armada the Mongols deemed it prudent to leave the 
Japanese to themselves. 

The Tokuguwa Regime. If, in the 250 years 
which followed lyeyasu's tenure of office, Japan had 
outward peace, she was greatly troubled by internal 
dissensions and endless intrigues among the han, and 
small civil wars frequently arose in the provinces touch- 
ing the succession to the chieftainship of one or other 
of the clans. Jealousies and private feuds existed 
among the daimios themselves, and they even fought 
in the sacred precincts of the Shdgun's castle. More 
and more the great Kokushiu rebelled against their en- 
forced residence in the Capital for a fixed annual period, 
and chafed under the restrictions imposed upon them 
by one whom they regarded as practically no higher in 
class than themselves. The feudal system became ex- 
ceedingly burdensome to the peasantry, and a re-action 
against the military domination set in gradually, the 
hope of men's hearts being a revival of the ancient 
regime under which the Mikado was the sole ruler, 
and before whom every subject, gentle or simple, 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 113 

was ready to make obeisance. The supremacy of the 
Skogun was doomed, for the Mikado's cause was 
warmly espoused by the great clans of Satsuma, Tosa, 
and Choshiu. 

The advent of foreigners upon the scene in 1854 had 
no appreciable effect upon the state of affairs, save, pos- 
sibly, to hasten the climax, for the revolution would 
have taken place in any case. The Japanese needed a 
change. The dual control, as far as it existed, had 
become most irksome. The treaties of 1858 were un- 
popular in many quarters, and the Shogun was blamed 
for entering into them, but they did not cause the up- 
heaval. 

Tokio owes the foundation of its present wealth and 
prosperity to lyeyasu, under whose auspices it became 
the headquarters of an army of 80,000 katamoto, or 
bannermen, as they would have been under a Manchu 
regime, who took up residence in the barracks (yashiki) 
of the castle precincts. The superior grades of the 
hatamoto were landowners, on a smaller scale than 
the daimios, though they rarely went to their country 
seats. The daimios, on the other hand, only visited 
the Capital at certain stated intervals, residing for the 
most part in the castle towns of their provinces, though 
their wives and families remained in Tokio as hostages 
for their lords' allegiance to the authority of the Shogun. 

The daimios' territories were called /tan, and practi- 
cally they were ruled separately and entirely in accord- 
ance with the will of the chieftain, who issued his own 

I 



H4 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

paper currency, negotiable only within his own borders. 
Even as late as 1872, when one crossed the boundary of 
a province, it was necessary to get all one's bank-notes 
exchanged, lest, after the first mile, they became value- 
less. The currency was purely local. 

Though the line of Tokugawa Shoguns of which 
lyeyasu was the founder practically ruled Japan until 
1868, neither during their time, nor at any time during 
the preceding centuries, when the other clans retained 
the office of Shdgun in their grasp, was the real supre- 
macy of the Mikados even momentarily in doubt. No 
matter how completely the actual monarch succeeded in 
effacing himself, and it must be acknowledged that 
some of them did so to a degree which left their subjects 
often in doubt of the very name of the Tens/it, the 
ruler of the Nihon-jin was the descendant of Jinmu 
Tennd, and no ordinary mortal could fill his place on the 
throne of Japan. 

The retention of the office of Shogun for centuries in 
one family gave to that position greater importance than 
it would ever have attained, as far as may be judged, had 
it been conferred upon each favoured individual by the 
mere will of the Sovereign. Heredity counted for much 
in those days, and a single clan was as potent for good 
or evil in the Far East as it formerly was in Scotland. 
Had such power as that which was exercised by the 
Sh6guns of Japan been wielded for centuries in any 
other land, the chances are that the true monarch would 
have been passed over altogether, and the man who 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 117 

filled the eye for the time being would have been 
accepted by the multitude as the actual lord. But the 
danger of this happening in Japan was non-existent so 
long as the people were willing to regard the sublime 
personage at Kioto as entitled to claim descent from 
Ama-ga-terasu. No subject of the Japanese Emperor 
would ever have dared to place himself on such a 
pedestal, and if such a feat had ever been attempted 
the populace would have been very emphatic in its 
condemnation of such presumption. The Shogun was 
powerful by virtue of the commands laid upon him by 
the unseen Emperor, and if he sometimes exceeded his 
powers there was no one to say nay. He might exer- 
cise most of the privileges of sovereignty, but it would 
have been fatal to his authority to claim absolute 
power. Thus the Shogun nominally consulted the Em- 
peror, and it not unnaturally depended very much on 
the personal characteristics of the two men who for the 
time being stood in this close relationship, whether 
the real Mikado took an active interest in the affairs 
of his people, or merely assented to what was done in 
his name. 

Looking through the pages of Japanese history it is 
not difficult to recognise in certain places the presence 
of a living ruler in the person of the exalted potentate 
at Kioto, whilst in other instances it has been plain 
that the master spirit dwelt not in the Mikado's palace, 
but in that of the Shogun at Kamakura, or, at a later 
date, at Yedo. It was inevitable that there should be 



1 18 AD VANCE JA PAJV. 

fierce jealousies and conflicts among the haughty 
princes who enjoyed the possession of wide tracts of 
country and vast revenues in their own right, and so 
we find that the daimios fought very frequently, and 
that down to very recent times there was a northern 
faction and a southern faction. The latter would have 
preferred to furnish the Mikado with a line of Shdguns 
from their own part of the country, and the northern 
gentry were quite as determined in their resolve that 
the Tokugawa dynasty, which had its ramifications in 
the three families of Mito, Kishiu, and Owari should 
not be uprooted. 

The DuimioH' Revenues. It may be that some 
who have had no opportunity of knowing how very 
exalted was the position, under the old regime, of the 
men who rank to-day as the Japanese aristocracy, will 
be disposed to smile at the apparently servile imitation 
of European titles which is perceptible under the new 
Government. The whole thing arose from the necessity 
of employing some method of indicating rank which 
should be efficient and expressive without being cum- 
bersome. The titles now employed, though not literal 
translations of those borne of old by Japanese grandees, 
are very much to the purpose, because they convey a 
correct impression of the relatively high rank which 
those who bear such titles now were always warranted 
to assume in times past. The innovation is of alto- 
gether recent date, though the families and individuals 
on which the patents were conferred can boast an an- 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 119 

tiquity of ancestral origin in no way inferior to that of 
the aristocracy of the nations of the West. The Daimio 
of half a million Koku, for example, was a veritable land- 
owner on a scale equalled only by our senior dukes and 
earls, and exercised quite as much influence on his own 
estates. It was only just that when the Government 
absorbed the landed property of these nobles, and gave 
them a fixed income in return, the distinction attaching 
to their rank should be in some manner perpetuated 
apart from the connection with the land which they 
relinquished. Thus a few were created marquises, and 
others counts, in their own right, the custom which 
prevails throughout Europe of associating a certain 
eminence of station with a given title being recognised 
by the Japanese as more convenient than that which 
had previously obtained in their own country. To say 
the least of it, the system which accorded rank to a 
feudal chieftain, mainly in respect of the number of 
bushels of rice which his land would produce, was one 
which had its drawbacks when comparisons with the 
Occident had to be instituted, though at other times it 
had many . advantages. A Koku is 4*96 bushels, and 
land that would not produce rice was not worth count- 
ing. The lord of a territory which yielded half a 
million Koku was thus inevitably the possessor, not 
only of a considerable extent of arable land for it is 
only practical to grow a certain fixed quantity of rice 
annually on a field of a given size but his domain 
might include, and usually did so include, large tracts 



120 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

of uncultivated country, from which neither rice nor any 
other crop was obtainable. It conveyed a tolerably 
good idea to the Japanese of the magnate's territorial 
possessions to measure his- income by actual produce in 
grain, and to the initiated there is no doubt that the 
expression, " a daimio of half a million Koku" for 
example, conveyed a much more definite impression 
of wealth than is implied by the mere ownership of 
thousands of acres of almost unproductive soil. The 
daimio, as a title, was abolished 25 years ago, but the 
individual so designated will now be found ranking as 
marquis, count, or viscount, his present status depend- 
ing to a great extent on his former position in the scale 
of daimios. It will be seen from this that the assump- 
tion of titles corresponding to those of the West has 
had ample warranty, even if a similar standard be ap- 
plied. No Spanish hidalgo prides himself more upon 
purity of descent and ancient lineage than does the 
Japanese Kwazoku. 

The Koku of rice was formerly worth about 20 shillings, 
and thus a daimio of 500,000 Koku had an income of 
about half a million per annum. Many of the more 
wealthy lords owned territories yielding 300,000 Koku, 
whilst Kaga, the richest of them, had a revenue of over 
a million Koku. There were about 300 of these feudal 
chieftains, the poorest of whom could place the value of 
10,000 Koku annually to his account. A few of the 
more prominent among them are named in the list ap- 
pended. 



EARLY HISTORY OF THE NATION. 



121 



Family Name. 


Lordship. 


Residence. 


Produce in 
Koku of rice. 


Mayeda ...' Kaga Noto Echiu 


Kanazawa ... 


1,027,000 


Shimadzu ... Satsuma, Osuijii, 








Hiuga and Loo- 








choo Is. 


Kagoshima ... 


710,000 


Date 


Sendai (Mutsu) ... 


Sendai 


625,000 


Matsudaira 


Echizen 


Fukui 


320,000 


Matsudaira 


Aidzu(Iwashiro)... 


Wakamatsu... 


230,000 


Hosokawa 


Higo 


Kumamoto ... 


540,000 


Kuroda 


Chikuzen 


Fukuoka 


520,000 


Asano 


Geishiu (Aki) 


Hiroshima ... 


426,000 


Mori 


Choshiu and Suwo 


Hagi 


369,000 


Nabeshima 


Hizen 


Saga 


35,X) 


Ikeda 


Inaba 


Tottori 


350,000 


Ikeda Bizen 


Okayama 


315,000 


Hachisuka ... Ashiu (Awa) 


Tokushima ... 


257,000 


Yamanouchi ... Tosa 


Kochi 


242,000 


Arima ... 


Chikugo 


Kurum^ 


2IO,OOO 


Sataki 


Akita(Ugo) 


Akita 


205,000 


Nambu... 


Nambu (Mutsu) ... 


Morioka 


200,000 


Uyesugi 


Uzen 


Yonesawa . . . 


150,000 

i 




122 




CHAPTER VI. 

THE RESTORATION. 

MONG the southern clans wield- 
ing most power were Choshiu 
Satsuma, Hizen, and Tosa, 
and the fact is very signifi- 
cant that, by virtue of their 
accessibility from the coast of 
China and Hong Kong, these 
clans had had opportunities 
which were denied to the men 

of the far north, of judging of the value of foreign 
appliances and inventions. 

Knowledge was power to the southern men, and with 
the aid of certain European firms which had no object 
to gain in depriving people of arms of precision if 
those people were willing to purchase and pay for such 
merchandise, the four clans named were speedily placed 
in possession of the means to drill and equip small 
armies on the European model. 

The southern daimios were induced to make these 
warlike preparations for several weighty reasons, one 
being ostensibly that the Shdgun for the time being 



THE RESTORATION. 123 

had been induced to enter into a compact, or series of 
compacts, with foreign powers, of which they disap- 
proved. Another incentive to action doubtless was the 
construction placed upon the then recent operations of 
the British and French forces in China. If the Shdgun 
was to be allowed to make treaties with Western 
nations, giving them free admission for purposes of 
trade, there was no saying where the troubles would 
end. They were not desirous of having an European 
army at the gates of the Emperor's palace in Japan, an 
event which had only a short time before happened at 
Peking. 

The condition of the Tokugawa House, divided as it 
was against itself at this time, sapped its vitality and 
contributed in no small degree to its overthrow. A 
Shogun had but recently died, and there had been two 
candidates for his office, one being put forward by that 
branch of the Tokugawa clan which hailed from Mito, 
and the other from the Kishiu branch. The arbitrator 
in this case was the hereditary regent, a personage upon 
whom devolved by right the duty of acting as Shogun 
in any interregnum, or during the minority of the ap- 
pointed successor. The Go-Taira, as he was officially 
styled, selected the young prince of the Kishiu branch, 
to the great dissatisfaction of the Mito faction, and one 
day as he was passing by the Sakurada gate of Yedo 
castle, the Go-Taira was assassinated by emissaries of 
Mito. The young Shdgun lyemochi was allowed to 
hold his position, not a very secure one just then, until 



124 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

his death in September, 1 866, and he was at once suc- 
ceeded by Hitotsubashi Yoshinobu, the nominee of the 
Mito clan, whose advent to power was signalised by 
events of so portentous a character that he tendered 
his resignation to his master, the Emperor at Kioto, 
after only a few months' tenure of office. The Mikado 
requested him, however, to continue to act as Shogun 
for the time, and Hitotsubashi had no choice but to 
comply. His subsequent life shows him to have been 
at all times a person of most peaceable disposition, and 
though responsible in a certain degree for the bloodshed 
which occurred at a later date, it is to his credit that he 
did his utmost to stop it, though unhappily when too 
late to avert the calamity. 

Practically, the dynasty of the Shoguns was doomed 
before Hitotsubashi (who was in more recent years 
known simply as Mr. Keiki, of Shidzuoka, though no 
disrespect was thereby conveyed) succeeded to office. 
Several things had contributed to bring about this con- 
dition of affairs. The southern earls were tired of the 
Tokugawa regime, and wished to see the Government 
administered personally by the Mikado, as had always 
been the case prior to Yoritomo's day. Among the 
retainers of these southern clans were certain shizoku, 
i.e., men of gentle birth, whose knowledge of affairs 
beyond the pale of the Japanese Empire was extensive, 
and had been acquired during a residence for some 
years in Europe. They reappeared upon the scene in 
Japan as passengers on the Kaiyo Maru, a ship built 



THE RESTORATION. 125 

for the purposes of naval warfare, and commanded by 
Admiral Yenomoto. Of the subsequent history of this 
vessel little need now be said beyond the fact that she 
was sunk off Yeso, but her passengers have filled the 
most important roles, for one was no less a personage 
than Ito Hirobumi, the present Prime Minister of 
Japan. 

Marquis Ito's history since 1867 is the history of his 
country, for he has, in one way or another, been identi- 
fied with every prominent movement in that most enter- 
prising of nations, Progressive Japan. 

It has been shown that the power of the Shdguns 
had become very sensibly diminished prior to the time 
when the great contest commenced between North 
and South. Even when Commodore Perry arrived in 
1854 with his famous autograph letter, the way had 
already to some extent been prepared for a change. 
Komei Tenno was then the Mikado, and he was by no 
means content to leave the conduct of affairs entirely in 
the hands of the Shogun. He died in 1867, and was 
succeeded by the present occupant of the throne, who 
was then not quite seventeen years of age. 

It is reasonable to suppose that His Majesty had had 
full opportunity of observing the changes wrought in 
the political constitution of the nation during the ten or 
twelve years prior to his accession. Though resident at 
the Kioto Palace, and not permitted, as a child, to see 
anything of the outer world, he nevertheless sought and 
obtained a considerable amount of information regard- 



126 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

ing its doings from those who constantly acted as his 
tutors and counsellors. He was thus in no small degree 
prepared, when he came to the throne, to fall in with 
the views of his more advanced advisers, and his selec- 
tion of a motto for his reign, the era of Enlightened 
Rule, affords a definite indication of the state of mind 
in which he approached the great questions which were 
then agitating the people of his dominions. How 
well he has acted up to the standard he established 
for himself is matter of recent history, and it is neces- 
sary for the moment to glance at the period immediately 
antecedent to his accession. 

Foreign Treaties. The conclusion of a treaty be- 
tween the Sh6gun then in office, on behalf of the 
Tenshi, with the President of the United States, which 
had been negotiated by Commodore Perry, was shortly 
followed by a similar compact with Great Britain. It 
was not until 1858, however, that the arrangements 
were completed, through Lord Elgin, for opening the 
port of Yokohama to general trade, and for the re- 
sidence there of foreign merchants. The latter treaty 
likewise stipulated that in 1863 the two southern ports 
of Hiogo and Osaka should be also thrown open to 
commercial intercourse. Certain events contributed to 
place it practically out of the power of Japan to fulfil 
this part of the engagement, and in 1862, when it was 
evident that there must inevitably be some delay, 
an Embassy was despatched to Europe consisting of 
several Japanese dignitaries and a numerous suite, to 



THE RESTORATION. 127 

request the Powers to consent to the postponement, 
until 1868, of the opening of the additional ports 
named. The request was acceded to, and after nearly 
two years of travel the members of the Embassy re- 
turned to Japan, more than astonished by what they 
had seen in the various countries which they had visited. 
" It is not the people of the West who are barbarians," 
they exclaimed on landing ; " we ourselves are the bar- 
barous people ! " That this enthusiastic commendation 
of the manners and customs of the Occident was some- 
what coldly received by their colleagues may well be 
imagined, and for some time no very palpable result 
was obtained from the mission by either party. In the 
meantime several events of great importance took place 
on Japanese soil. 

Although the Shogun had entered into treaties which 
gave to Europeans certain liberty of access for purposes 
of trade, there was a very powerful anti-foreign party in 
the nation, which set itself to prove to those who were 
primarily responsible for the strangers' presence that 
there was a conspicuous lack of unanimity on the sub- 
ject. The methods they adopted tended in no small 
degree to make existence hazardous for the growing 
foreign population, and it was small comfort to reflect 
that the object the agitators sought to attain was quite 
as much to embarrass the Shdgun's party as to expel 
the " barbarians." Their antagonism took the form of 
assassinating not only the Europeans, but those who 
sympathised with them. Thus the murder of three 



128 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Russians was followed by that of the native interpreter 
to the British Legation, which had only recently been 
established at Takanawa, a suburb of Yedo. Subse- 
quently the Legation itself was attacked, and but for 
the stout defence made, all within it would have been 
slain. At another time the French Legation was dis- 
covered to be on fire, the palace of the Shogun in Yedo 
was burned, the newly-formed settlement of Yokohama 
was fired, and as a climax the captains of two Dutch 
vessels were cut down by two-sworded assassins in the 
main street of the foreign quarter. When a severe 
earthquake added its terrors to the evils of the hour, 
the early settlers of the port of Yokohama realised that 
they were living in very stirring times. 

The daimio of Mito, elsewhere alluded to, was popu- 
larly regarded as the instigator of all these atrocities, 
and for years the very name of Mito became a bugbear 
to foreign residents. The Mito faction were antagon- 
istic to the Shogun's Government, otherwise known as 
the Bakufu, because a nominee of the other branch of 
the family tree had been chosen to fill the high office of 
Shogun instead of Hitotsubashi, who represented Mito. 
It was not until 1866 that the death of lyemochi gave 
Hitotsubashi his opportunity, and Mito's opposition to 
the Bakufu came to an end. 

Sir Rutherford Alcock, the first British Minister to 
the Court of Japan, had resolution enough, notwith- 
standing the risk he ran in travelling so far from his 
headquarters, to make a pilgrimage in 1860 to the 



THE RESTORATION. 129 

crater of Fujiyama, 80 miles from the Capital. He was 
the first European to ascend the mountain, and to de- 
termine its approximate height. The prevailing impres- 
sion among the leading Japanese at that period was well 
described when he declared that " free intercourse and 
trade threatens them with a participation in all the 
miseries, mutations, and political struggles from which 
they have continued so long exempt. This is un- 
doubtedly the feeling of the present Government, and 
the opinion of daiinios generally all, in a word, who 
have any voice or action in Japan. They see nothing 
but evil in the conjunction which has brought Western 
Powers to their shores and opened Japanese ports to 
foreign trade." 

Happily the occasion for lack of confidence was 
finally removed thirty years ago, but unquestionably at 
the time the situation of individual foreigners was often 
critical. 

Lord Elgin had been commissioned in 1858 to pre- 
sent the Shogun with a steam yacht in the name of the 
Queen of England, and it is a fact that at this period 
the Japanese fleet, apart from this yacht, consisted of 
one little paddle-wheel steamer bought from the Dutch, 
two large square-rigged sailing vessels, and a three- 
masted schooner. In another chapter will be found 
an account of the Imperial Navy of Japan in 1895, and 
of its recent doings, so that some idea may be gathered 
of the progress made by Japan in this department 

alone. 

K 



130 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Early EfTortM to Irani*. In 1862 the Shogun 
inaugurated a trade with Shanghai, by sending thither 
a British barque of 385 tons (which had been purchased 
and renamed the Sen-zai-Maru, or Ship of a Thousand 
Years), under the command of Captain Richardson, with 
a party of eight officials from Yedo. It was intended 
to open up a trade with China, and the incident is well 
worth recording as perhaps the earliest effort of the 
Japanese to develop that foreign trade in their own 
vessels upon which they have so extensively embarked 
in the last two decades. 

The bombardment of Kagoshima, and subsequently 
of Shimonoseki, by foreign men-of-war, were actions 
brought about to a great extent by the growing in- 
capacity of the Shdgun's Government, then rapidly 
approaching its final extinction. The Satsuma and 
Choshiu daimios evinced an utter disregard for the 
Tokugawa authority, their quarrel being directly with 
the Shogun, and only indirectly with Europeans. It 
is not necessary here to enter upon a consideration 
of the long chain of events which culminated, in both 
cases, in open hostilities, for the ultimate effect was 
scarcely to interfere with the national progress, though 
in every way deplorable at the time. How little real 
animosity was entertained towards Europeans, as a 
body, was apparent when during the next year the 
Satsuma chieftain cordially welcomed Sir Harry Parkes, 
then British Minister ajt Yedo, on his visit to the Sat- 
suma stronghold. 



THE RESTORATION. 133 

Enough has been said to show that though the 
Northern clans espoused the cause of the Shogun, as 
they were in duty bound to do, against his enemies 
in the South, the climax was reached only when the 
Tenshi was induced, by the condition of anarchy which 
he then saw to be imminent, to take up the reins of 
Government in person. Hitotsubashi, though believ- 
ing that the act of His Majesty had been prompted 
by his opponents, was ready to disperse his following 
at the Imperial command, and to resign his position of 
Shogun there and then. But though the Shogun was 
willing, his supporters were unwilling, and were deter- 
mined to prolong the fight. The Emperor declared 
them rebels, and invested his uncle, Prince Arisugawa, 
with full powers to suppress them. This was in Jan- 
uary, 1868, and the end soon came. Supported by the 
combined forces of Satsuma, Choshiu, Hizen, and Tosa, 
the loyalist general gradually drove the adherents of 
the Shogun northward, until he finally crushed them at 
Hakodate in the island of Yeso. 

Peace was made, and some of the most conspicuous 
of the Shogun's party went abroad, returning after the 
lapse of years to accept office under the Government 
which had in the meantime been established and con- 
solidated. 

Prominent I^eittlerw. The Emperor Mutsuhito 
determined in 1868, after the tide of rebellion had 
been swept northwards, to remove his Court to Yedo. 
In the Castle there he accordingly established himself, 



i 3 4 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the former occupant having retired into private life at 
Shidzuoka, 125 miles distant. The city of Yedo was 
renamed Tokio, lit. Eastern Capital ; and now that the 
party of progress had attained the upper hand, steps 
were taken to introduce all those adjuncts to civilised 
life which the Embassy of 1862 had so favourably 
reported upon in 1864. 

Prominent among those who fought on the side of the 
loyalists against the Shogun's party were several officers 
who have since risen to great distinction. Marquis 
Yamagata, now Inspector-General, for example, rose 
in the army of Choshiu, from the ranks to the com- 
mand of a regiment, and has distinguished himself 
throughout his career, not more by his valour than 
by his devoted attachment to the Imperial Family. 
Count Inouye, the Minister upon whom has devolved 
the task of reorganising the affairs of the Korean 
Kingdom, obtained his early military experience whilst 
leading the forces of Choshiu, to repel the attack of the 
Shogun's army, at an earlier period. Marquis Ito Hiro- 
bumi, who returned from a five years' sojourn abroad 
in time to take part in the stirring events of the restora- 
tion period, was likewise a samurai of the Choshiu clan. 
Marquis Saigo is a Satsuma man, and after occupying 
many high posts in the Administration is at present the 
Minister for the Navy. A more detailed list of the pro- 
minent members of the Government has been furnished 
in another chapter, and it is only necessary here to 
allude to the acts of the Administration as a body. 



THE RESTORATION. 135 

Railways. Among the first steps taken by the new 
Government of the Mikado \vas to arrange for the con- 
struction of railways. They were at the outset at- 
tracted by the offer of a prominent financier who under- 
took to provide the requisite funds at 12 per cent, 
interest. He failed to carry through his project, how- 
ever, and the Oriental Banking Corporation stepped into 
the gap, furnishing the money at 9 per cent. The Bank 
appointed one of its most trusted managers to represent 
it in Yokohama, and this gentleman was likewise engaged 
by the Government as Director of the new railways. At 
a more recent period money has been found by Jardine, 
Matheson & Company, but at the present day all the 
ready cash required by the Administration is procurable 
in Japan itself, which fact affords ample proof that the 
system of Government is regarded by the nation at 
large as altogether stable and satisfactory. It was no 
indication of a scarcity of money in the nation, as a 
whole, when the Ministry undertook to borrow. It was 
simply an admission that sufficient time had not elapsed 
to convince native capitalists of the wisdom and feasi- 
bility of the Government's novel undertakings. Until 
the country had settled down to the new order of things, 
it was obviously unwise to make heavy calls on the 
national capital, though in order to carry out the Imperial 
programme of progress and reform money was abso- 
lutely essential. The Ministers had every confidence in 
their plans, and the result shows that they were fully 
justified. They have only now to intimate that money 



i 3 6 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

is needful, and the coin flows into the exchequer spon- 
taneously. 

How stupendous was the task which the Ministry had 
set itself to accomplish will be understood when it is 
explained that the former daimios had to be provided 
for, as well as their retainers, and that many of the terri- 
torial chieftains had been accustomed to issue paper 
money in considerable quantities. The Government 
could only be carried on by withdrawing all these feudal 
lords from their domains, and providing for their 
comfort at the Capital. Some had large estates, some 
small. Some were rich in the accumulation of specie, 
and could afford to be no burden to the State ; others 
had loosened an avalanche of practically irredeemable 
bank-notes for their successors to grapple with. The 
retainers of these nobles had all received pensions from 
their lords, and to withdraw from the lords all their 
sources of revenue was to ruin the retainers as well. 
Thus the problem to be solved was not a little com- 
plicated, and that it was boldly faced, and a satisfactory 
solution arrived at, reflects everlasting credit upon the 
courage and ability of those who stood sponsors for the 
new regime. 

First, the old territorial boundaries were swept away, 
and a more manageable partition of the Empire into 
prefectures was effected, in the course of a few months. 
Prefects were appointed to collect the Land Tax, which 
formerly had very often been payable by the farmer to 
*he land agent in kind. It had now to be collected in 



THE RESTORATION. 139 

money, and in some cases unquestionably this was a 
hardship, against which there were several unimportant 
outbreaks of feeling from the peasantry. With the 
revenues so collected the Government had to pension 
the daimios whose estates had been thus confiscated in 
the process of centralisation. Then they had to find 
employment for the retainers, only a small proportion 
of whom were fitted for sedentary occupations. Some 
of these gentlemen obtained posts under the local pre- 
fectures, a great many became policemen, and the Navy 
was almost entirely recruited from this class. 

After a few years the pensions were abolished in 
favour of a capitalisation scheme, under which the 
recipients were given Government Bonds to the full 
value of their original incomes, redeemable after a 
certain term of years. In great part these bonds have 
already been paid off, and thus the Government stands 
well to rid itself at no distant date of all its liabilities in 
this respect. 

Another of the early enactments of the new Adminis- 
tration was to declare, in 1870, that vaccination should be 
compulsory. From ancient times small-pox had been a 
terrible scourge to the Japanese people. In 1870 the 
number of heavily-marked or sightless persons who 
owed their misfortunes to this malady was enormous. 
In 1895 the afflicted ones are almost invariably adults, 
which may at least be accepted as proof that the misery 
has been alleviated in no trifling degree. 

Public Work**. The Sado gold-mines, situated in 



140 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

an island on the north-west coast, had for years been 
worked in a very primitive fashion prior to 1870, the 
quartz having been broken, bit by bit, with iron mallets. 
In that year the Government Department of Mines in- 
troduced quartz-crushing machinery, whereby the output 
could be at least trebled. 

It was in the year 1871 that the Ministry gave itself 
free rein, for the affairs of the nation had by that time 
become tolerably settled upon a good working basis. 
The Oriental Banking Corporation, through whose 
agency a vast amount of railway material had been 
procured from Great Britain, and a staff of engineers 
engaged to prosecute the work, was further commis- 
sioned to provide an adequate stock of wire and other 
suitable apparatus for the construction of lines of tele- 
graph throughout the country, a start having already 
been made by an engineer attached to the lighthouse 
department, in the provision of a line connecting Tokio 
with Yokohama. The railway between those points 
had made such progress that a trial trip of an engine 
and trucks was made in September over four miles of 
track. 

In August of that year the great hospital of Shitaya 
in Tokio was inaugurated, two German doctors who had 
seen service in the Franco-German War being installed 
as the leading physicians. 

The Emperor's birthday in this year was made 
specially memorable to Europeans by His Majesty's 
reception, at the palace in Tokio, of the principal 



THE RESTORATION. 141 

foreign employees of the Government Only three 
years had then elapsed since he had issued from his 
retirement at Kioto to administer the affairs of his 
Empire in person, and no little curiosity was evinced 
in regard to the personal appearance of the Sovereign 
on the part of his subjects at large, whose ideas on 
the subject were, up to that time, of the most vague 
character. 

As an additional proof of the resolution to which 
Japan had arrived that she would eventually, and at no 
distant date, put forward her claims to be regarded as 
having joined the Concert of Civilised States, a new 
Mission to the United States and Europe was deter- 
mined upon. The Udaijtn, or Minister-in-Chief of the 
Right, Iwakura, was accompanied in this embassy by 
I to Hirobumi and three other heads of State de- 
partments, and the party left Japan in December for 
California on board an American mail steamer. 

The advance made by his country and the decidedly 
progressive programme, in the best sense of the term, 
which had been sanctioned by the Emperor, up to that 
date, formed the salient topics of an excellent speech 
delivered by Marquis Ito whilst passing through San 
Francisco on that journey. It so perfectly conveys the 
hopes and aims of the Government part}- at that early 
period of the new rd-gime that it is here quoted in full. 

Speech of his Excellency Ito Hirobumi, delivered at 
the Lick House, San Francisco, in January, 1872 : 

" This is perhaps a fitting opportunity to give a brief 



I 4 2 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and reliable outline of many improvements introduced 
into Japan. Few but native Japanese have any correct 
knowledge of our country's internal condition. . . 
Our Mission, under special instructions from His Majesty 
the Emperor, while seeking to protect the rights and in- 
terests of our respective nations, will seek to unite them 
more closely in the future, convinced that we shall 
appreciate each other more when we know each other 
better. . . . To-day it is the earnest wish of both 
our Government and people to strive for the highest 
points of civilisation enjoyed by more enlightened coun- 
tries. Looking to this end, we have adopted their Mili- 
tary, Naval, Scientific, and Educational Institutions, and 
knowledge has flowed to us freely in the wake of foreign 
commerce. Although our improvement has been rapid 
in material civilisation, the mental improvement of 
our people has been far greater. . . . While held 
in absolute obedience by despotic Sovereigns through 
many thousand years, our people knew no freedom or 
liberty of thought. With our material improvement 
they learned to understand their rightful privileges, 
which for ages had been denied them. Civil war was 
but a temporary result. . . . Our daimios magnani- 
mously surrendered their principalities, and their volun- 
tary action was accepted by a general Government. 
Within a year a feudal system firmly established many 
centuries ago has been completely abolished. What 
country in the middle ages broke down its feudal system 
without war ? 



THE RESTORATION. 145 

" By educating our women we hope to ensure greater 
intelligence in future generations . . . our maidens 
have already commenced their education. Japan cannot 
claim originality as yet, but will aim to exercise prac- 
tical wisdom by adopting the advantages, and avoiding 
the errors, taught her by the history of those enlightened 
nations whose experience is their teacher. A year ago, 
I examined minutely the financial system of the United 
States, and every detail was reported to my Govern- 
ment. The suggestions then made have been adopted, 
and some are already in practical operation. 

" In the Department of Public Works, now under my 
administration, the progress has been satisfactory. Rail- 
roads are being built, both in the eastern and western 
portions of the Empire. Telegraph-wires are stretching 
over many hundred miles of our territory, and nearly 
one thousand miles will be completed within a few 
months. Lighthouses now line our coasts, and our ship- 
yards are active. All these assist our civilisation, and 
we fully acknowledge our indebtedness to foreign 
nations. 

" As ambassadors, and as men, our hope is to return 
from this Mission laden with results valuable to our 
country and calculated to advance permanently her 
material and intellectual condition. While bound to 
protect the rights and privileges of our people, we aim 
to increase our commerce, and by a corresponding in- 
crease of our productions, hope to create a healthy basis 
for their greater activity. 



I 4 6 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

" Time, SQ burdened with precious opportunities, we 
can ill afford to waste. Japan is anxious to press for- 
ward. The red disc in the centre of our National flag 
shall no longer appear like a wafer over a sealed em- 
pire, but henceforth be in fact, what it is designed to 
be, the noble emblem of the rising sun, moving on- 
ward and upward amid the enlightened nations of the 
world." 

Educational ProgrcMM. It affords remarkable testi- 
mony to the unwavering perseverance of the leading 
spirits of the Administration that, amid all the signs of 
impending strife which were accumulating around them, 
they found opportunity to introduce improvements in 
the condition of the Mikado's subjects in all ranks of 
life, and to stimulate throughout the adoption of genuine 
reforms. The scheme of national education was re- 
modelled upon a basis which has afforded universal 
satisfaction, as alluded to later on. The old system 
of calculating time and regulating the seasons, which 
was of Chinese origin, was entirely abandoned in 
favour of the Gregorian Calendar, which has been in 
operation since January, 1873. Daily newspapers were 
started in the Capital and chief towns of the interior. 
Exhibitions of special products and of priceless treasures 
of Japanese art were opened at Kioto and at Tokio. 
The first line of railway was completed between Yoko- 
hama and the Capital, the State opening by the Emperor 
having taken place in October, 1872. The northern 
island of Yeso was opened up to colonisation, under the 



THE RESTORATION. 



147 



guidance of the Kaitakuslii, which department included 
in its staff several gentlemen from the United States 
who were experts in agriculture, forestry, and mining. 

Rice was for the first time shipped from Japan direct 
to the London market at about this period, and proved 
the commencement of a trade which has since assumed 
very large dimensions. At the end of the year 1873, 




MEDALS AWARDED AT TOKIO EXHIBITION. 

Ivvakura, the Udaijin, returned from Europe with his 
suite, and resumed his position at the Ministry. 

The Grand Duke Alexis of Russia paid a visit to 
Japan during the winter of 1872-3, in the frigate Svet- 
lana, on which he was serving as a lieutenant. The 
occasion of his stay in the port of Yokohama was seized 
by the Mikado to make a State visit on board a foreign 
man-of-war, which was in itself so extraordinary a depar- 
ture from the time-honoured usages of the Japanese 
Court, and so palpable a concession to the spread of 
Western ideas in the territory of Dai Ni/ion, that it 
created no trifling sensation in the minds of both native 
and foreign observers. His Majesty first went to the Riu- 

L 2 



I 4 8 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

jo-kan his own corvette accompanied by the Duke, 
and subsequently was entertained on board the Svetlana 
to a banquet. It is memorable that on this occasion 
the Japanese monarch wore, for the last time in public, 
his ancient ceremonial costume of white brocade, with 
the head-dress peculiar to the Tenshi from the middle 
ages. He has since that visit, when travelling beyond 
the limits of his palace, worn the uniform of European 
design in which he is usually photographed. 

The adoption of foreign costume, and the European 
style of wearing the hair cut short, had become much 
more general by this date, and it was enjoined upon all 
officials to wear the European dress of ceremony on 
State occasions. The demand which consequently 
sprang up for tailors' cutters all over the Empire was 
so great that the men who could obtain a little practical 
tuition from a foreign tradesman in the art of habit- 
making were able to command their own rate of wages 
in distant cities. 

In the department of education great progress was 
made and excellent results were achieved by the Im- 
perial College of Engineering, established in Tokio in 
the year 1873. In recent times the various branches of 
science there taught have been embraced by the lectures 
delivered at the Imperial University, but for nearly a 
decade the Engineering College continued to turn out 
ripe scholars, for whom posts were always to be found 
promptly in connection with the many public works 
undertaken by the Government. 



THE RESTORATION. 149 

Sheep -farming was commenced as an experiment, on 
a tract of land not far from the Capital, and for a time 
it succeeded ; but the rank indigenous grass of the 
country must ever prove a serious obstacle to the rear- 
ing of these animals on a paying scale. 

Coast Survey. The coasts of Japan have been most 
carefully surveyed under the direction of the Mikado's 
hydrographer, an officer who was, in his earlier surveys, 
indebted in no small degree for practical hints to the 
staff of H.M.S. Sylvia, and whose work has been car- 
ried out for twenty years past in a manner securing for 
him the highest praise from professional critics. The 
Japanese naval officers have the fullest appreciation of 
the value of those tasks which are constantly performed 
by British surveying vessels in Eastern seas. And it 
is only just to state, on the other hand, that they have 
in recent years turned out Admiralty Charts for their 
own Government which, for nicety of execution and 
perfection of engraving, command general admiration. 
The Japanese have a natural taste for trigonometrical 
surveying, and their patience and accuracy find expres- 
sion in the minutest details. They have recently pub- 
lished charts of some of the less known harbours, which 
are to be found in the hands of coasting skippers, whose 
confidence in them is the best proof of the general exac- 
titude which characterises the work of this branch of the 
Japanese naval service. 

MchoolN. The system of elementary education is 
compulsory. Schools, where the tuition is of this 



I 5 o ADVANCE JAPAN. 

elementary class, number throughout the Empire no fewer 
than 25,374; and, in addition to these there are 1,770 
special schools and 145 middle-class schools, with 177 
Kindergarten, bringing the total up to 27,466. The 
Voluntary and Board Schools under inspection in the 
British Isles, to institute a comparison with Japan, 
number 31,040. 

Two years ago the pupils at these schools numbered 
2,320,272 boys and 965,122 girls. At the special col- 
leges for military training, naval construction, agricul- 
ture, and the arts, there were also 1 1,906 pupils. 

Japan boasted not more than 24 public -libraries in 
1892, possessing 327,548 volumes ; but the number has 
been considerably added to, and the system is of 
altogether modern growth. 

Perhaps no department of the Japanese Government 
Service should possess greater interest for foreign readers 
in view of the fact that, when the new treaty signed 
in 1894 comes into full operation, all dwellers in the 
Mikado's dominions will become subject to the Japanese 
laws than the bureau which deals with the administra- 
tion of justice. 

AdminiMtrntioii of Juatice. The system now in 
force has been founded throughout on the principles of 
modern jurisprudence. The judges of Japan are irre- 
movable, save in the course of criminal or disciplinary 
punishment. A Court of Criminal Appeal, as well as 
that of Civil Appeal, is already in existence in Japan, 
cases being heard by the Court of Cassation in the 



THE RESTORATION. 153 

Capital. In this respect, at all events, Japan is ahead of 
Great Britain. There are 49 courts of first instance, one 
in each Fu and Ken, and from these there in an appeal 
to seven provincial courts, beyond which in certain cases 
there is the Tokio Supreme Court. All the lesser crimes 
are dealt with by the courts of first instance, and these 
also make preliminary examination in cases of serious 
crime. Below these courts there are Courts of Peace, 
301 in number, in the principal towns and villages of 
every Fu and Ken, which take cognisance of all petty 
offences. An approach in form to our Assize Courts is 
seen in the constitution, every three months, of criminal 
courts in the provincial courts of appeal and sometimes 
at courts of first instance which are presided over by a 
president and four judges, for the purpose of trying 
serious offences in the provinces. 

The Emperor himself directly appoints the senior 
judges, others of less rank being nominated by the 
Minister of Justice for the Emperor's approval. 

The statistics of crime show that in 1892 there were 
3,249 offences classed as serious, and 166,884 as minor 
offences, throughout the country. In 1886 the figures 
were 6,848 and 129,827 respectively. 

Eight State prisons, 156 local gaols, seven military 
and three naval prisons, were in existence last year, with 
a reformatory attached to every Fu and Ken. The 
prisons and reformatories held a population of about 
71,000 males and 5,000 females at the close of the year 
1892. 



154 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

As the laws are codified, the administration of justice 
proceeds on well-defined lines, and it may be accepted 
as a general rule that no ordinarily well-conducted resi- 
dent of the British Isles is more likely to come under the 
lash of the criminal law in Japan than in his own country. 

Relief of the Poor. A remarkable provision is 
made by the Poor Law of Japan for relief in times of 
distress, which has been based upon the necessities of the 
people as exhibited in the rare occurrence of a failure of 
the rice crop. The Government has a relief reserve fund 
of nineteen millions of yen, equal to nearly ,2,000,000 
sterling, the interest of which is devoted to grants in aid, 
and in twelve months the expenditure, for a period not 
much above the normal, was about 38,000 for food to in- 
digent persons, 7 3,000 for provisional dwellings for poor 
or burnt-out families, 3,000 for seed grain to farmers, 
and nearly 4,000 lent to help the payment of Land 
Tax. 

The Tokio workhouse, it is worthy of note, contains 
on an average not more than 600 paupers, a fact which 
speaks loudly for the general prosperity of the people of 
the Japanese Capital. 

Effort* to Reform Korea* While domestic reform 
engaged the attention of Japanese statesmen they were 
not unmindful of the position which their country ought 
to hold in international affairs, and they could not but 
regard the situation of Korea with intense and peculiar 
interest. So long as her near peninsular neighbour re- 
mained isolated from, and defiant to, Western nations, 



THE RESTORATION. 155 

she was likely to place Japan in peril. The Annamese, 
by persecuting French missionaries and their neophytes, 
brought themselves under subjection to France. Korea 
invited attack from her intolerance in the same manner. 
Besides, she had lately become coterminous with a 
Western power whose annexing propensities perturb 
many lands, and as regards other European States they 
probably feared that a desire for territorial aggrandise- 
ment might arise in one quarter or be revived in another, 
aad that thus they might be endangered by foreign 
domination through the temptation which Korea afforded 
to Western ambition. It is obvious that considerations 
of this kind induced the Government of Japan to attempt 
to introduce Korea into the comity of nations. The first 
step that was taken to bring the sturdy and obstinate 
peninsulars to terms was to approach them through the 
Chinese. The task of securing the co-operation of China 
was entrusted to Mr. Mori, and as China, not less than 
Japan, was concerned in the integrity of the peninsula 
which juts down between them for it would constitute a 
permanent menace to each if possessed by an aggressive 
power Mr. Mori's mission was successful. The Tsungli 
Yamen sent a commissioner with despatches to Korea, 
which fact doubtless assisted the Koreans to acquiesce 
in the reasonable demands of Japan at the time. What 
Commodore Perry effected in Japan, the Japanese have 
in turn accomplished in Korea. That country is now 
in a fair way to be thoroughly opened to foreign trade 
and intercourse under Japanese auspices. 



156 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Chlnene and Japanese Statesmen. A native 
Japanese newspaper gave the following account of 
an interview between Li Hung Chang and Mr. Mori, 
when he was Japanese Ambassador at Peking, touch- 
ing the comparative standard of civilisation in Europe 
and Asia. Li had asked Mori for his opinion, and Mori 
answered : 

" In my humble opinion, all honest writers allow that 
Asia has made great advances in civilisation. Supposing, 
however, that the position which Asia holds be fixed at 
the third degree taking the highest as ten that of 
Europe cannot be placed lower than the seventh." 

Li Hung Chang : " A very just comparison. Pray 
favour me with your views as to the best plan for pro- 
moting the advancement of my country." 

Mori : " Your question is a very serious one, to which 
I would not venture to give a reply. I have just come 
to this immense country, and am as yet entirely un- 
acquainted with its internal condition. For the advance- 
ment, however, of its prosperity, the first thing is to 
select those persons who by their abilities are best quali- 
fied to grapple with a subject so important. This will 
be plain to you. Unless, however, there are thirty more 
Li Hung Changs in China, this work cannot be carried 
out." 

Li Hung Chang (smiling) : " Why do you say 
that ? There are a hundred Li Hung Changs in 
China." 

Mori : " There may be, but what use are they when 



THE RESTORATION. 157 

they are not in their proper places in such offices as 
Governors of the eighteen provinces or Ministers of the 
Tsung-li-yamen. In my humble opinion those young 
students who are now being taught in America will, 
when they arrive at manhood, obtain an influence 
similar to that which your Excellency now possesses, 
and will advance high in office." 

Li Hung Chang: " I quite agree with you. I brought 
about the despatch of those youths to Europe, and I 
place great hopes in them for the future." 

tiori Arinori. Mori Arinori, the Ambassador to 
China referred to, and subsequently to Great Britain, had 
a career of more than common interest. He belonged 
to Satsuma, and was one of twenty-four students 
selected by the Prince of that province for education in 
England in the year 1865. He was then nineteen years 
of age, and studied at London University, as did also 
several who have since attained to high distinction in 
Japan. The political condition of his country induced 
him to return after a period of two years' stud)-. He 
spent one year, on his way home, in the United States. 
Reaching Tokio just after the restoration, he was 
appointed to the Foreign Office, and was elected to the 
Convention which was called to remodel the institutions 
of the Empire. He acted as president of that body, and 
the knowledge acquired in England and America gave 
him great influence. He was the champion of many re- 
forms, none of which excited more keen opposition than 
the proposal to abolish the practice of wearing two swords 



158 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

by the samurai. He eventually carried this measure, but 
the Conservative Party were so incensed that he barely 
escaped assassination. After remaining in seclusion at 
his native city for some time, he was appointed (the first 
diplomatic post created by the New Japanese Govern- 
ment) as Charge d' Affaires at Washington. 

There he continued his political studies, and published 
a book on " Life and Resources in America," dealing 
with the various institutions of the United States. He 
strongly deprecated the bestowal of office solely for 
political purposes, and, as a fact, the Cabinet of Tokio 
is appointed directly by the Emperor himself, altogether 
independently of party. He wrote strongly on religious 
questions, and it may be no disadvantage to quote some 
of his arguments, because they show as clearly as possi- 
ble not only the views he then held, but those which to 
a very great extent are believed to prevail among his 
educated countrymen at the present day. 

Hi** View* on Religion ami Education. " After 
his return from Europe some years ago," it was declared, 
" he was frequently questioned by his countrymen as to 
his opinion about the Christian religion. He took the 
ground that, so far as he could understand it, the Bible 
was a wise and good book. While Christians claimed to 
have the only true religion, and pretended to be better 
than other men, they did not, in that particular, differ 
from the Chinese or Japanese, who assert the same 
claims for their religions. He thought, therefore, that 
those who desire to form any opinion on Christianity 



THE RESTORATION. 159 

should acquaint themselves with it by a close and 
attentive study, and then judge for themselves. What- 
ever may be his own private ideas, he does not think it 
proper to advocate them on a matter of such great 
importance. A large proportion of people who are 
known by the name of Christians, say and do a great 
many things, according to his observation, which do not 
accord with the teaching of their own Bible ; but is not 
this true of every nation on earth ? When men think 
they know everything and boast of their superior wisdom, 
the presumption is that they have yet much to learn ; 
and all human experience, as well as the Bible of the 
Christians, inculcates the idea that before men can be 
wise and good, they must be humble. True Christianity 
may be considered in a general sense as part of a civili- 
sation in which the good and the bad participate. True 
philosophy would seem to teach that it should be a 
leading element in such a civilisation." 

Whilst in the United States Mr. Mori published a 
book entitled " Education in Japan," showing its needs, 
and a summary of his views was reprinted in Japanese, 
and largely contributed to the remodelling of the 
Educational Institutions of the Empire. 

Mr. Mori urged most strongly the abandonment of 
the custom of wearing swords. One of his sturdiest 
opponents was the present Viscount Kuroda, and when 
in the United States, en route to London, that gentle- 
man made a graceful acknowledgment of his con- 
version to the Minister's views by handing his sword 



160 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

to Mr. Mori for bestowal upon the Washington Military 
Museum of Antiquities. 

Both Mr. Mori and Viscount Kuroda were firm be- 
lievers in the higher education of their countrywomen. 
They discovered that the happiness and prosperity of the 
United States was in no small degree due to the posi- 
tion of woman in that country, where she was fitted 
to take her position as the equal of man. 

On returning to Japan, Mr. Mori became Vice- 
Minister for Foreign Affairs, and laboured actively for 
the promotion of knowledge. He established a society 
to inaugurate and promote social and political reform 
by the discussion and publication of its papers. The 
Press Laws compelled this society to cease publishing 
its proceedings; and there can be no doubt that in Japan, 
at present, an absolutely unrestricted Press would be 
a doubtful blessing. Foreigners are not permitted 
to publish newspapers in the vernacular. Were this 
restriction abolished now though it may be by and 
bye native editors could shelter themselves under the 
names of foreign owners and attack the Government 
too freely for endurance. After 1899 the case will be 
altered, and foreign owners of native papers will be 
amenable to native law. 

Perhaps it was to Mori that polygamy came to be so 
frowned upon, for in 1873 he spoke out boldly respect- 
ing the need of reform in the marriage laws. No finer 
sentiments are to be found expressed in any language, 
than arc contained in his writings at that period. 



THE RESTORATION. 161 

Mori put his principles into practice, for having met 
a highly accomplished lady of his own class, he upset all 
preconceived notions of propriety by paying his ad- 
dresses to her after the fashion of an Occidental lover. 
He wooed and won his bride, and they signed and 
attested a contract of marriage before the Mayor of 
Tokio, in the presence of a concourse of natives and 
foreigners, which secured to the lady all the rights and 
privileges the most advanced legislation of the West has 
accorded to the sex, and bound the husband to mono- 
gamy. No wonder the old Conservatives gasped for 
breath ! 

Killed by a Soshi. This enlightened Statesman's 
career, it is necessary to add, came to a sad conclusion, 
for he fell a victim to the dagger of a soshi, Nishino 
Buntaro, whose motives for perpetrating the foul crime 
appear to have been absolutely inexplicable. 




M 



1 62 




CHAPTER VII. 

EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 

Y the time Meiji, as the era of En- 
lightened Rule, had entered upon 
its fifth year, the embarrassments 
of the new Government had become 
so abundant that pessimistic folk 
shook their heads and indulged in 
the most dismal prophecies. In truth there was much 
to perplex the responsible Ministers of Departments, 
for China and Korea were even then the cause of 
much anxiety. The people of the Riu-kiu Islands 
had held allegiance to Japan for centuries, but had 
nevertheless been claimed by China as vassals, upon 
a principle with which the events of more recent times 
have made us familiar. Some Riu-kiu fishermen had 
been wrecked on the neighbouring coast of Formosa 
in September, 1871, and the savage aborigines of the 
"beautiful isle" had cruelly treated the castaways. 
Their friends had appealed to the Mikado, as their 
Sovereign, to punish the evil-doers. As Formosa nomi- 
nally formed part of the Chinese Empire, the Govern- 
ment of Japan addressed itself to the Tsung-li-yamen 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJL 163 

at Peking on the subject. Soyeshima, an official of 
high rank, was despatched to the Chinese Capital with 
full powers to discuss this and cognate matters with the 
Chinese authorities, and as a result of his mission the 
Mikado's Ministers were informed that China gave Japan 
absolute freedom of action in the matter of chastising 
the savages. Japan was at liberty to send a military 
force to Formosa for this purpose, and otherwise to take 




THE CRUISER "CHIYODA." 

such measures as would convey a salutary warning to 
the barbarians, whom the Chinese confessed themselves 
practically unable to control. For the time being there 
the matter rested, but a large percentage of the southern 
samurai were keenly desirous of taking part in an expe- 
dition which should have Formosa for its goal, and re- 
sented the idea of delay. 

M 2 






1 64 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



At this time the Government was organising its Army 
and Navy upon foreign principles, and was not in any 
hurry to send troops into the field until they could do 
justice to their drill and equipment The French Mili- 
tary Mission had done excellent work in training the 

nucleus of an army, and 
British officers had taken 
prominent parts in the 
creation of corps of Artil- 
lery and Marines. The 
Navy was in process of 
formation under the com- 
petent superintendence of 
a British naval comman- 
der and the personnel of a 
man-of-war, lent for the 
purpose by the British 
Admiralty. 

The peasants in certain 
districts began to remon- 
strate loudly against the 
burden of the Land Tax at 

this juncture, and formulated their demands in threaten- 
ing letters to the Prefects. In Bizen and Bingo pro- 
vinces the farmers gathered in open revolt, and set fire 
to Government buildings and other State property, ex- 
pressing a determination to have none of the Western 
innovations in their part of the country. Their objec- 
tions took the form, in particular, of uprooting the tele- 




SURGEON-GENERAL ISHIGURO 

(Chief of Medical Staff). 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 165 

graph posts as soon as they had been erected, cutting 
the wires, burning the hon-jins t or official inns whereat 
the foreign employee and his guard were lodged, and 
generally giving as much trouble as was possible short 
of organised rebellion. In the midst of these minor 
troubles at home there was a growing quarrel with 
Korea, which, it was afterwards discovered, was attribut- 
able in great measure to the machinations of the 
Chinese Resident at the Court of Seoul. The Govern- 
ment of the Mikado was understood to have received 
a most insulting letter from Korea which, if it had not 
the sanction of authority, had nevertheless emanated 
from a source which imparted to it a certain weight as 
voicing the feelings of the anti-Japanese element in 
the Peninsular Kingdom. The text of this remarkable 
epistle was pretty much as here given, and when read 
in the light of subsequent events becomes vastly enter- 
taining, though it tends to show that at the time in 
question Korea was distinctly a thorn in the side of the 
Japanese Government : 

A LETTER FROM KOREA RECEIVED IN JULY, 18/2. 

" Our Korea is but a very small country, but yet we 
Jiave courage to tell you in writing that Western 
barbarians are beasts. We intend t/iis as a direct 
insult to you and your barbarous allies. We only 
wish you would join with them and come here with 
your great ships of war and your army. Fusan is 
the nearest port of Korea to Japan. We will send 



166 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and clear a space there for a battle-ground, and will 
appoint the battle, so as to make the affair as in- 
expensive to you as possible. Correspondence by letter 
is useless, and your apologies will not avail you. 
There is nothing for it but a sanguinary war, 
which will cost Japan all her warriors. That will 
bring you to your senses. Do not attempt to write 
to us again. This is a fair warning to you to make 
all your preparations, for if Japan does not invade 
Korea, then Korea will most certainly invade 
Japan" 

The fact that this letter had been received did not 
leak out at the moment, but presently the Korean insults 
became matter of common talk, and fresh fuel was 
thereby added to the flames already kindled in the 
breasts of the patriotic southern clansmen, who clamoured 
at once to be led against those who thus dared to deride 
the armaments of Japan. 

Remonstrances from Snt*iimn. Shimadzu Sa- 
buro, the hereditary chieftain of the Satsuma clan, took 
occasion, at the same period of general uneasiness, to 
address a remonstratory letter regarding the proceedings 
of the Government, to His Majesty the Tenshi, the 
general tone of which, though conveyed in language of 
the utmost respect, and indicative throughout of patriotic 
subserviency, was plainly to deplore the rapid advance 
of the nation on Occidental lines, however progressive 
in character. The document is remarkable enough to 
interest the reader throughout, even when shorn of some 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 167 

hyperbolical expressions which convey but little to a 
Western mind. 

SHIMADZU SABURO TO HIS MAJESTY. 

"The August Studies of the most illustrious, the 
Emperor, are thus summarised by His Majesty's ser- 
vant, Hisamitsu. 

" I. The establishment of national principles of action, 
and the execution of the laws. 

" 2. The adoption of a system of dress, and strict 
regulation of the outward man. 

" 3. The reform of learning. 

" 4. The careful selection of human talent. 

" 5. The careful conduct of foreign relations, and the 
establishment of a clear distinction between the rights 
of Japanese and foreigners. 

" 6. The cultivation of a military spirit, and the reform 
of the army laws. 

" 7. The establishment of a clear distinction between 
the rights of noble and mean. 

" 8. The banishment of greed, the prizing of virtue, the 
rejection of the deceitful arts, and the reverencing of 
truthfulness. 

"9. The strict prohibition of debauchery, and the 
establishment of a strongly marked line between the 
sexes. 

" 10. The right of all to address the Sovereign. 

"n. The careful judgment of disputes, and rightful 
apportioning of reward and punishment 



168 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

" 12. The lightening of taxes, and the abatement of 
burdens. 

" 13. The careful calculation of income and ex- 
penditure. 

" Your Majesty's servant has entertained strong 
opinions on these points for many years, but at the time 
of his short visit to the Capital in 1869, finding no 
convenient opportunity for expressing them, and not 
being favoured with your Majesty's gracious interroga- 
tion, he was obliged to be silent 

" In this critical moment he can no longer sit by and 
look on with indifference at passing events, and though 
he is convinced that your Majesty cannot adopt his 
retrograde and unenlightened views, still he feels that 
a convenient season may never offer itself again, and 
he ventures to make this abrupt representation. He 
humbly apologises for his audacity, but the fact is that 
by your Majesty's present system of government the 
fortunes of this country are daily declining. The pre- 
sent line, which should last for ever and ever, is in 
danger of falling into the vice called republicanism, and 
he can see, as clearly as in a mirror, that Japan will 
eventually become a dependency of the Western Bar- 
barians. 

"Your servant, Hisamitsu, awaits punishment for his 
audacity and want of reverence in speaking thus freely. 

" Presented with awe and prostrations." 

It is not suprising to know that this letter gave much 
offence to the members of the Government who were 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJL 169 

striving to direct the course of the nation anywhere 
but towards republicanism, and certainly entertained no 
such dread of Japan falling a prey to the voracity of the 
nations to which the old noble so flatteringly referred. 

He was invited to visit Tokio to explain himself, but 
resisted the summons until a man-of-war was sent to 
Kagoshima to compel his attendance. Then it was 
that he went on board with a couple of hundred or so 
of his retainers, all wearing their long and short swords, 
and dressed in the costume of Old Japan, and was soon 
landed in the Capital. 

The Satsuma men still partially shaved their heads, 
wore their hair in the Japanese queue, carried their two 
swords in their girdles, twirled iron war-fans in their 
fingers, refused to be served with food in the inns except 
in the most antiquated style, and generally behaved 
themselves more like actors in some historical drama on 
the theatrical stage, than as inhabitants of modern Japan. 
When the Emperor's quarters were seen to be ablaze, 
and the three signal guns were fired from the castle 
walls to warn the nation that the occupants of the Im- 
perial Palace were in danger, there was a readiness 
among the populace to ascribe the mischief, in some 
way or other, to the handiwork of the strangers from 
the south. Shimadzu left the Capital shortly afterwards, 
and took his men back with him to Kagoshima, whence 
they did not again emerge until they set out in 1877 m 
rebellion against the Mikado, an occurrence which will 
claim attention in due course. 



170 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

The members of the Ministry had done their utmost 
to conciliate and harmoniously co-operate with the old 
noble, and he had actually accepted the office of Sa- 
daijin, that of second subject of the Emperor, and the 
portfolio of Home Affairs, which had been tendered to 
him in the endeavour to enlist his sympathies in the 
new order of things, but the effort proved, to be fruit- 
less. He remained wedded to the prejudices and doc- 
trines of antiquity. 

A day was approaching when the ardent tempera- 
ments of the southern Samurai would no longer suffer 
them to brook the insults which, in their opinion, had 
been levelled at Japan by her neighbours, China and 
Korea. Had the politicians of those two countries 
sought a more effective plan by which to embarrass the 
Ministers of the Tenshi, they could scarcely have found 
it, for the task of controlling a body of men whose ante- 
cedents had always been more or less of a character to 
render them quick to resent an affront, was truly her- 
culean. 

The enthusiasm with which the young blood of 
Kiushiu demanded authority to chastise Korea spread 
to the Capital, for several members of the Government 
themselves caught the infection, and the counsels of the 
Ministry became divided. The Udaijin Iwakura was 
one of those who advocated patience, but the Ministers 
Saigo Kichi-no-suke, Soyeshima, Goto Shojiro, Itagaki, 
and Yeto Shimpei, were all five of the contrary opinion, 
and resigned their portfolios in a body as a protest 



EARLY YEARS OF ME1J1. 



171 



against further delay in administering to Korea, more 
especially, her deserts. 

The irreconcilables were speedily replaced by Okubo, 
Terashima, Ito Hirobumi, and two other prominent 
leaders whose names are equ- 
ally honoured in Japan, and 
the Iwakura Cabinet, as re- 
constituted, sturdily resisted 
the pressure put upon it to 
declare war. 

But Veto Shimpei, one of 
the five officials who had re- 
signed, was imbued with the 
belief that he could force the 
hands of his late coadjutors 
and the efforts he made to 
gain his object ended very 
disastrously for himself and 

all concerned. He appears to havedgyised a method 
whereby the disappointed Samurai of his own clan, 
in the province of Chikugo, might seize the castle 
of Saga, the principal town, and hold it as a protest 
against Government inaction. Accordingly he laid siege 
to the place, with a numerous body of his fellow-clans- 
men and their sympathisers in that region, and carried 
the castle by storm, after a stout resistance on the part 
of the little garrison. 

The telegraph was in full operation everywhere, and 
promptly conveyed word to Tokio of Veto's audacious 




MARSHAL NODZU. 



172 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



act of insurrection. The Iwakura Ministry were at once 
authorised by the Emperor to declare Veto a rebel, and 
to take measures for his suppression. Okubo Toshim- 
itsu was sent south as High Commissioner to execute 

the Imperial decree, and 
with him went General 
Nodzu, who, in recent times, 
has done wonderful things 
in Manchuria, and Admiral 
I to, the naval commander 
who so completely outman- 
oeuvred the Chinese Admiral 
and annihilated the fleet of 
the Celestial Empire in the 
late war. 

Saga Insurrection* It 
was against their own coun- 
trymen, unhappily, that these now well-known leaders 
rose to distinction, and the Saga Rebellion, as it was 
termed, gave them both their opportunity. The castle 
which Yeto Shimpei was rash enough to occupy was 
speedily retaken by the loyalists, and he became a fugi- 
tive ; but not for long, for he was captured, tried before 
a specially constituted tribunal, and condemned to de- 
capitation. His execution, together with a large number 
of his misguided followers, quickly succeeded the death 
sentence, and his case affords a notable instance of re- 
tributive justice that deserves to be recorded. During 
the time Yeto Shimpei held office as a Minister of the 




ADMIRAL ITO. 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 173 

Crown he was mainly concerned with the administration 
of the law, and among other striking innovations he 
introduced the practice of photographing prisoners, as a 
means of identification should they be guilty of further 
malpractices. After the Saga affair he took to the 
mountains, and the Ministry of Justice issued broadcast 
a photographic presentment of the missing culprit, which 
was directly the means of his apprehension, it being re- 
cognised by a person who thereupon became interested 
in the chase. 

There were many in the land who grieved over the 
loss of Veto Shimpei, for his patriotism alone had be- 
trayed him into crime. He thirsted to punish the 
Koreans for their insolence, and brought disaster upon 
himself, almost to his country, too, as the sequel 
showed, by undue eagerness and lack of self-restraint. 

The men of the Satsuma province were even then 
drilling most assiduously under the directions of their 
leader, Saigo Takamori, as they loved to call him, 
Saigo the Falconer, as the name might be translated, 
and he was at that period of his career the absolute 
idol of the Samurai class throughout the country. What 
their object was in making such formidable military 
preparations was not disclosed at the time, but the 
Government knew that it took place nightly, and could 
form a fairly accurate idea of the way in which the force 
might eventually be employed. That they recognised 
the danger, when Yeto Shimpei's zeal outstepped his 
discretion, of the torch he applied at Saga, initiating 



174 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

a far more formidable conflagration in Satsuma, may 
well be comprehended, from the promptitude with which 
they set about its extinction. The members of the 
Cabinet undoubtedly breathed more freely when they 
found that they had been successful in checking the 
spread of insurrection, if not permanently, at least for a 
certain time, and in reality the impending trouble at 
Kagoshima did not reach a climax until considerably 
more than two years had passed. 

Nevertheless, the existence of a turbulent temper in the 
old military class was unpleasantly evident, and the need 
of an outlet, in some direction or other, became too palp- 
able to be ignored. With that desire to find a safety- 
valve for the ebullition of popular feeling with which the 
members of the Cabinet have been credited on a more 
recent occasion, they at once undertook to send an ex- 
pedition to Formosa to chastise the aborigines, in con- 
sonance with the authority given them by China some 
time before. 

Expedition to Formosa. The preparations of the 
War Department even at this period had attained to a 
degree of perfection which enabled it to mobilise a power- 
ful, thoroughly-equipped army at short notice. Count 
Okuma was Minister, and General Saigo, brother of the 
famous leader of the Satsuma clan, and now Minister 
of the Navy Department at Tokio, took command of the 
expedition. At this period of their career the troops 
were full of that soldierly attribute of personal courage, 
but lacked the disposition to descend to the lower details 
of military life. The men were accompanied by an 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJL 175 

almost equal number of " coolies " to dig trenches, cook 
the rations, build huts, and perform other duties which the 
military class at that time regarded it as beneath their 
dignity to undertake. 

Formosa proved to have formidable cliffs to be scaled 
by the invaders, and mazes of barricades had been con- 
structed by the savages out of banyan trees and brush- 
wood, so that the work of reaching the fastnesses of the 
men whom the expedition had come to punish proved 
to be one of no small difficulty and exposure to flank 
attack. When they had surmounted one difficulty they 
were confronted with another. Finally they had to 
bivouac in an abattis on the bare rock when they could 
scrape through to it, without food or water, at the 
approach of darkness. A correspondent who was with 
them at the time, Mr. House, was nevertheless able to 
pass a high encomium upon the Japanese soldiery, from 
whom not a complaint ever arose, despite their discom- 
fort Had they been surrounded by every luxury they 
could not have been in more cheerful humour. Herein lies 
their real merit : that they exercise the strictest discipline 
over their own tempers, an ability to govern themselves 
enabling them to show high qualities of endurance and 
fortitude (and this is true of the entire nation, as well 
as of the Japanese Army) not only in danger, to which 
they are constitutionally indifferent, but on occasions 
of personal distress, or of grave anxiety and suspense, 
such as comparatively few Western people can meet 
with equanimity. The more recent campaigns have 
shown very distinctly that these characteristics are as 



i;6 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

much those of the Mikado's troops of to-day as they were 
of the men Count Saigo took to Formosa in 1 874. They 
have advanced rapidly since that time in all that goes to 
make the finished soldier, and though they have their 
faults, which have only too often been descried and ex- 
aggerated by outsiders, the Japanese soldiers exhibit 
self-denying patience, and a ready, willing, hearty 
obedience at all times, which tell even farther in their 
favour than the reputation they have won for reckless, 
daring heroism. 

It is memorable, at a time when the Japanese have been 
stigmatised as guilty of unheard of atrocities in Manchuria, 
to find that Count Saigo expressed to his men his strong 
personal desire that in the inevitable encounters with the 
savages as little blood should be shed as possible ; and 
it was only after two attacks from the aborigines, who 
were in ambush, had caused his own ranks to be thinned, 
that he gave the order for an assault, in which a con- 
siderable number were slain. He sternly forbade his 
men to decapitate their foes, though the savages in- 
variably so treated the Japanese whom they caught. 
The tribe which had been guilty of the outrage in 
1871 on the shipwrecked fishers was sought out and 
fought, but the other tribes were all but unmolested, 
and speedily came in to make peace. All was ended 
in an agreement by the aborigines to deal humanely 
with any future castaways. 

It was quite in consonance with the vacillating policy 
of the Tsung-li-yamen that when they heard of the opera- 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJL 177 

tions of the Japanese forces in Formosa they declared 
that although the Ambassador, Soyeshima, had correctly 
interpreted the understanding which had been mutually 
arrived at, they never supposed that the Japanese " mis- 
sion " to the Formosa savages would be accompanied by 
an armed force. Such a quibble would have carried its 
own contradiction under any circumstances; and when 
the Chinese Government, in its alarm at the dimensions 
which the expeditionary labours of Count Saigo's force 
had assumed, despatched a couple of its ships and 
Special Commissioners to treat with Count Saigo for 
the withdrawal of his little army, that general simply 
referred them to his Government. 

One of the proposals then made was to the effect 
that, having come to settle the affairs of the disturbed 
neighbourhood in conjunction with the Japanese com- 
mander, they should now co-opsrate with him in arrange- 
ments having this end in view. Saigo promptly told 
them that he could accept no such offer, for he had been 
directed to punish the authors of the outrage on his 
countrymen, and had done so. He neither required, nor 
could submit to, co-operation of any kind. 

When it is remembered in what almost identical 
fashion the dispute arose over the condition of affairs 
in Korea, which led to the war of 1894-5, ^ ls tne 
more easy to understand the condition of mind in 
which the Chinese authorities approached the settle- 
ment of the Formosan difficulty in 1874. 

At last, on the 2$th June, the Chinese visitors from 

N 



1 78 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Peking put certain definite suggestions before Saigo, and 
it was agreed that active operations should be suspended 
pending the decision of the respective Governments. 
The propositions were that (a) the Chinese should re- 
imburse the Japanese for the cost of the expedition, () 
that the Chinese should guarantee such occupation of 
the savage territory of Formosa as should prevent the 
recurrence of outrages on strangers, and (c) these con- 
ditions being assured the Japanese forces should be 
withdrawn. 

The Chinese authorities at Peking subsequently sought 
to obtain better terms, and affairs had reached such a 
turn that Okubo was sent to China with full powers. 
He reached the Chinese Capital in September ; and on 
the 25th of October, after perpetual discussions, which 
promised to be utterly futile, he notified his intention of 
returning to Japan. 

His language was emphatic. " I am quite hopeless, 
and about to leave," he wrote. " Our philanthropic 
action in Tai-Wan has been regarded by you as hos- 
tile, whilst we merely undertook to punish the savages 
and to protect our own people. Henceforth we shall 
continue to clear land, protect those tribes which submit 
to us, punish those who oppose. We shall complete our 
plan of action, and permit no molestation on your part. 
As the case cannot be decided by arguments, each 
country must go its own way and exercise its own 
rights of sovereignty." 

Prince Kung thereupon hastened to the English Lega- 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 179 

tion, and begged the British Minister's good offices, 
which were cordially given. The required agreement 
was made in writing, as desired by Japan, a half million 
Chinese taels was agreed upon as the price to be paid 
down for the evacuation of Formosa, and the proposi- 
tions made to Saigo were substantially confirmed. 

Japan proved in this affair her disposition to be a 
leader in the paths of humanity, and, moreover, abso- 
lutely fearless, in spite of whatsoever influences may be 
brought against her, in the execution of any course 
which she may, after due consideration, mark out for 
herself. It is well, perhaps, to bear in mind the evidence 
which recent history affords of this disposition, in view 
of the possibilities which the future may have in store 
for the Japanese people. 

The feeling of the Samurai in general in the year 
1874 regarding the expedition to Formosa was that 
of extreme confidence in the ability of the nation, not 
only to inflict severe chastisement on the savages, or 
upon the people of Korea, but, if necessary, to under- 
take the punishment of China herself, whom they 
regarded as, to a great extent, the prime instigator 
of all those insults to the nation of Nihon which 
had of late been endured. There has been abundant 
evidence in recent years that this feeling did not 
subside with the conclusion of hostilities in Formosa. 
It grew and flourished exceedingly with the increasing 
vitality of the vernacular Press, and there has always 
been the conviction in the minds of people of the 

N 2 



i8o ADVANCE JAPAN. 

unofficial class, who could afford to give free vent to 
their opinions without in any way jeopardising their 
positions in life, and without political importance being 
attached to their statements, that sooner or later Japan 
would have to try conclusions with China. The Nihon-jin 
at large have laid at the door of the Chinese a large 
proportion of the difficulties which have beset the track 
of Japanese progress from the first ; and though the 
obstacles met with have been courageously encountered 
and surmounted by the practised skill of those who have 
navigated the ship of State, it is more than likely the 
notion that China agitated the waters on many specific 
occasions has had not a little foundation in fact. 

The Rebels >i ;u < h out of IvagoMhimu. Among 
the attempts which have been made since 1868 to re- 
vert to the conditions which existed in great measure 
prior to the restoration of the Mikado to personal con- 
trol of his realm, none have been of a really serious 
character save that which was initiated by the Satsuma 
clan in the spring of 1877. The avowed object to be 
achieved by the adherents of Saigo Takamori who 
had himself been a prominent member of the Govern- 
ment, and had perhaps more than any other individual 
strenuously laboured to bring about the fall of the 
Shogun, and the active supremacy of the Mikado 
was to obtain from the Emperor in person, then tem- 
porarily resident at Kioto, redress for certain real or 
imaginary grievances. They marched out on New 
Year's eve, according to the old calendar, 12,000 strong, 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 181 

from the Satsuma capital of Kagoshima, and had reached 
Kumamoto before they encountered any opposition. 
Here they demanded the surrender of the garrison, 
but the commandant defied them, and they sat down 
before the castle to starve out the loyal troops. The 
delay in their advance gave time for the Government to 
send down an army, under the Emperor's uncle, Prince 
Arisugawa, and slowly but surely they were turned back 
toward the place from which they came. This was not 
effected without severe fighting in the provinces of 
Chikuzen, Hizen, and Higo, and the tide of war ebbed 
and flowed subsequently in the Hiuga, Osumi, and Sat- 
suma regions until late in the summer, when the last 
action took place at Kagoshima, and the rebel leader, 
with his chief supporters, perished on the field of battle. 
Haigo Takamori. It is due to the memory of 
Saigo Takamori to record the fact that in taking up 
arms against the lawful authority of his country he was, 
to a great extent, impelled by his high sense of patriot- 
ism, mistaken as it was. He fought not against the 
Emperor but against the Cabinet. When declared 
by the Tenshi to be in rebellion he was without 
even this excuse for his conduct, but he had then 
gone too far to retreat, and had he been even will- 
ing to lay down his weapons his clansmen would not 
have submitted longer to his authority. They would 
have killed him, and would have elected another 
leader probably his lieutenant, Kirino who would 
have led them equally to ultimate disaster. The Sat- 



182 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

suma clan, as a body, was at this time directly opposed 
to the policy of the Mikado's Government. Though 
Satsuma and Choshiu had been the first to adopt foreign 
armaments, and to employ these against the Shogun, 
whom they alike detested, they were by no means at 
one on the question of the introduction of Western arts 
in general. For centuries the prospect of an influx of 
foreigners had been the great bugbear of the nation, and 
Satsuma was the last of the clans to acknowledge the 
wisdom of the course on which the Government embarked 
with such success. As early as 1858 Saigo Takamori 
had become prominent in the counsels of the Southern 
clan, and had associated himself with schemes for the 
complete overthrow of the Shogun, to an extent which 
made his temporary retirement a necessity if his feudal 
chieftain was to avoid an encounter with the Tokugawa 
power. For that, especially single-handed, Shimadzu 
Saburo, the daitnio, was scarcely prepared. After a 
while, Saigo was recalled by his lord, and was the 
acknowledged leader of the Satsuma forces in the 
operations they subseo^ently undertook, in 1867, against 
the northern forces of the Shogun. He rose to a posi- 
tion of great eminence in the new Government, and his 
services were recognised by a pension, with which he is 
said to have established his so-called military school at 
Kagoshima. 

K;i\\;iiniir;t. Okubo, and Terashima* It was 
to a great extent this school which brought about his 
fall for in 1870 he and his master Shimadzu left the 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 



183 





Capital not a little dissatisfied that they had not received 
even higher office than that which had been conferred 
upon them. Saigo was largely influenced by the daimio, 
ahaughtyand self-sufficient 
prince of the old type, but 
other Satsuma shizoku who 
had been also appointed to 
posts of command in the 
State were not only content 
to remain in the Capital, 
but throughout have ren- 
dered loyal and efficient 
service to their Emperor.so 
much so, that Okubo, Tera- 
shima, and Kawamura, are 
names which will for ever 
remain bright on the pages 
of Japanese modern his- 
tory. Of the trio, Admiral 
Kawamura alone survives, 
but he still ably fills an 
post. 

The court noble, Iwakura, was sent to Kagoshima to 
appease the wounded pride of the clan, and after some 
little time Saigo again took office as a Councillor of 
State. He was subsequently appointed Commandcr- 
in-Chief of the Imperial Army, in the year 1873, ar> d 
it was thought that in this way even his ambition would 
be at least temporarily allayed. If Saigo was satisfied, 



ADMIRAL KAWAMURA. 



important and arduous 



184 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

however, his old chieftain was not, and his memorandum 
addressed to the Emperor aptly portrays his state of 
mind at the time. Just then the trouble with Korea 
reached an acute stage, and a war seemed inevitable. 
Saigo was the leader of the "Jingo" party of Japan, 
and as he could not carry his colleagues in the Govern- 
ment with him he resigned office, together with Veto 
Shimpei, another member of the Government, as already 
mentioned. 

Even after the fiasco at Saga, and Veto had been 
executed, Saigo resisted all appeals to return to Tokio, 
and remained at Kagoshima, drilling his military cadets. 
Notwithstanding this the Government sought to main- 
tain peace at home by raising Shimadzu Saburo to 
higher rank still, and by despatching the expedition 
to Formosa previously alluded to, under the command 
of Saigo's younger brother. 

All attempts at conciliation were, however, doomed to 
failure, for the Satsuma clan remained excessively dis- 
contented, an additional cause of offence being the edict 
promulgated about this time forbidding the wearing of 
swords by any but the regular forces of the State. 
Shimadzu threw up the office he had been induced to 
accept, and quitted Tokio on the 5th April, 1876, for 
Kagoshima, his followers carrying their swords osten- 
tatiously wrapped in cotton bags. The nation had 
grown weary, as well as the Government, of the arro- 
gant irreconcilability of the clan, and it was felt that 
further concessions would not only be unavailing but 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJI. 



185 



would be accepted as an indication of weakness. When, 

therefore, in the middle of February, 1877, tne military 

" school," which Saigo had so diligently drilled, left 

Kagoshima to accompany him on a proposed overland 

journey to Kioto, in defiance 

of every principle of law and 

order, the Army and Navy 

of the Mikado's Government 

was prepared to meet the 

rebellion with energy and 

determination. 

*l ; i r * l < ; 1 1 Yamagata and 
Admiral Ito. General 
Yamagata (now Field-Mar- 
shal) took command of the 
advanced divisions. Admiral 
Kawamura kept watch with 

his fleet, amounting in all to eight or nine vessels, 
on the Bungo Coast. Admiral Ito operated with three 
ships on the southern and western shores of Kiushiu, 
and landed 2,500 troops at Kagoshima in rear of the 
rebels. 

Prince Arisugawa-no-miya, uncle of the Mikado, who 
has only recently died, was given supreme control of 
the Imperial forces in connection with the suppression 
of the rebellion. The first check which the Satsumas 
received was at Minami-no-seki on the 1st of March. 
They never reached a more northerly point, and after 
repeated disasters at Takase, Kawajiri, and Kumamoto, 




MARSHAL YAMAGATA. 



1 86 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



they fell back southwards, the Imperialists entering their 
province after them, on the 4th of June. One by one 
the castle towns of Miyako-no-jo, Miyazaki, and No- 
beoka fell to the assault of Arisugawa's battalions, and 

at last, in the middle of Sep- 
tember, Saigo was driven to 
bay with only 500 picked 
warriors, on Shiro-yama, in 
the centre of Kagoshima. 
He was wounded in the at- 
tack which ensued, and his 
faithful lieutenant Hemmi 
performed the last office 
to his chief by cutting off 
his head, after that final 
act of a defeated samurais 
life harakiri had been 
duly performed by the van- 
Hemmi was likewise slain, 
with Kirino, Murata, and others of Saigo's subordinates, 
and it was reserved for Admiral Kawamura who had 
sat with Saigo at the Council table in Tokio, and had 
been his friend and comrade throughout the earlier 
struggles of the Restoration period to find the dead 
leader's head, to wash it with his own hands, and rev- 
erently to give it burial with the mutilated corpse. 

Saigo'M Monument. From that date until quite 
recently the graves of these misguided but brave men 
have been marked by plain wooden tablets, but last 




H.I.H. PRINCE AKISUOAWA 
(recently deceased). 

quished leader himself. 



EARLY YEARS OF MEIJL 187 

year the Mikado's Government caused a monument 
specially to be erected in the Capital to the memory of 
Saigo, in the Cemetery of Aoyama, where lie buried 
Okubo and others of his colleagues in the early days. 
Saigo's memory, by command of the Emperor, has been 
relieved of the stigma which attached to it, and he is 
now no longer regarded as one who rebelled against 
his Sovereign, but as a man whose good service and 
noble character so far outweighed his faults that his 
crime will hold no place in the annals of his land. 

In stature, Saigo Takamori was imposing, for he stood 
over six feet high, and his expression was eminently 
energetic and intellectual. Somewhat negligent in 
attire, he was of courtly bearing and yet martial 
withal. Like his brother, who was warmly attached to 
him despite their widely differing political views, Taka- 
mori possessed a happy buoyant temperament which, 
combined with his great personal courage, endeared 
him to the samurai throughout the Empire. Fifty 
thousand of them were ready at one time to do his 
bidding. He was not inappropriately termed the "heart 
and sword " of the Mikado's cause. 



i88 




CHAPTER VIII. 

THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 

O K I O. As the capital of the Ten- 
shi's dominions, Tokio demands 
the primary attention of those who 
would study the progress of Japan, 
and the question of the future of 
her enterprising people. Formerly 
known as Yedo (Estuary entrance), 
possibly on account of its original 
position, as a fishing village, at the 
entrance of the River Sumida, it only grew into cele- 
brity from the time the Shogun lyeyasu made it his 
headquarters in A.D. 1590. The line of Tokugawa 
Shoguns, which begun with lyeyasu, ended with Hito- 
tsubashi Yoshinobu in 1868. With his deposition, the 
original name of the place and its most prominent in- 
habitant vanished simultaneously from the pages of 
Japanese history. The exalted official who had con- 
ducted all the affairs of State, and had been the 
practical ruler of Japan during the Mikado's life of 
seclusion, was himself relegated to a strictly private 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 191 

life in the country, as plain Mr. Keiki. The city 
became Tokio, the eastern capital, to distinguish it 
from Kioto, otherwise Saikio, the capital of the west. 
Kioto, though it has ceased to be a Royal residence, 
is nevertheless regarded as one of the three Fu, or 
cities of the first order, the others being Tokio and 
Osaka. We might consider London, Edinburgh, and 
Dublin as the three Fu of the British Isles. Tokio, 
Kioto, and Osaka have privileges as cities which are 
not possessed by places ranking a grade lower in the 
municipal scale of Japan. 

In that quarter of a century which has passed since 
the Emperor took up his residence in Tokio, the city 
has undergone a complete transformation. There was 
originally a long street of one and two-storey wooden 
buildings extending from the suburb of Shinagawa, for 
nearly seven miles, to Asakusa, constituting the main 
street of Yedo, from which smaller thoroughfares 
branched off at frequent intervals, principally on the 
western side. There were no side-walks or pave- 
ments, and pedestrians were jostled by bearers of 
sedan-chairs, or sternly commanded to clear the way 
for some official on horseback, preceded by a running 
groom. The only light at night was obtained from 
hand-lanterns of paper, which nearly everyone carried, 
and from fixed lamps of a similar description, sus- 
pended over house-doors. The illuminant was always 
a tallow candle, with a paper wick. Only those who had 
business ventured out after dark. Yedo was at that time 



192 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

in something of the condition of London in the last 
century. One of the first improvements made was to 
substitute brick buildings for wooden ones in that part 
of the main street which lay between Shinbashi (the 
new bridge) and Nihonbashi (the bridge of Japan). 
This section, named Ginza (silver seat) is the finest 
commercial thoroughfare in the Capital, and at the pre- 
sent time it is lighted by electricity, trams and omni- 
buses glide and rumble along it as in a London street, 
good paved footpaths have been provided for pedes- 
trians, the ubiquitous jin-riki-slias are deftly steered 
to and fro in the throng and bustle of vehicular traffic, 
newsboys scream the titles and prominent headlines of 
their latest editions ; and all is a moving panorama, to 
the visitor, of teeming life and ceaseless energy. 

Railway Depots. The southern railway lines all 
have their terminus at Shinbashi, and there is another 
station in the northern part of the city for the lines 
which communicate with the north and west. The 
trams to some extent unite the two depots, and omni- 
buses likewise ply between them, but in addition the 
belt railway, which almost encircles the city, not only 
provides a means of reaching the more distant suburbs, 
but enables passengers to change from the southern 
system of lines to that of the north, without passing 
through the city streets at all. Just as distances are 
calculated from Charing Cross with us, it is the rule in 
Japan to measure the roads from Nihonbashi, in the 
central ward, a bridge which dates its existence from 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 193 

the year 1603. Yedo was at that period a growing city, 
and it became necessary to reclaim land on the south 
and east of the district of Asakusa, so some four square 
miles were filled in, a part of which tract now constitutes 
the quarter of Tsukiji (lit. made ground), wherein are 
resident a large proportion of the European population, 
and only within the limits of which are foreigners able 
to hold property in land. 

The size of the city of Tokio has been variously 
estimated, but from a fairly accurate measurement it 
may be taken at the present day as extending not less 
than ten miles from north to south, by eight from east 
to west. It has the Bay of Yedo for six miles as its 
limit on the south side, and it is divided into two 
unequal portions by the River Sumida, a stream having 
about the width of the Thames at London Bridge. The 
population of the city proper is rather under one million, 
but if we include the whole region embraced by the term 
Tokio Fu in other words, the Metropolitan district, as 
understood in London the census gives a total of half 
a million more. The area is not far short of 80 square 
miles. 

Fires and earthquakes, typhoons and floods, have so 
devastated the capital at various times within the last 
two hundred years that practically the entire city has 
been more than once rebuilt. Earthquakes, particularly, 
have occasioned immense damage and much loss of life 
Early in the last century 37,000 persons were said to 
have been killed by a succession of shocks, which were 

o 



194 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

followed by a tidal wave in the bay. A more recent 
visitation, in 1855, destroyed, it was computed, no fewer 
than 110,000 lives. 

At present the Capital is divided into fifteen adminis- 
trative divisions, which have all been connected, for fire 
brigade purposes, by telephone, for the last 20 years. 
Japan was, in fact, one of the first among nations to 
make use of Edison's invention, and a very well-equipped 
telephonic exchange has existed in Tokio since the year 
1890. In former days the whereabouts of a fire was 
notified by the number of taps given to the fire-bells, the 
signals being taken up and repeated by each watch- 
tower to its neighbour. From its earliest history the 
city has been famous for the frequency and overwhelm- 
ing character of its conflagrations, and formerly hardly a 
night passed without the brigades being called out. The 
construction of buildings has vastly improved, however, 
since the first brick houses were erected in 1872, and 
this has aided very materially to lower the rate of fre- 
quency. The employment of powerful steam fire-engines 
of Western design further tends to confine the destruction 
to comparatively limited areas. 

The Cattle* The former palace of the Shoguns was 
centrally situated on elevated ground in the heart of 
Yedo, and was protected by two deep moats and sub- 
stantial encircling walls, with towers at the gates. The 
spot was chosen for the present Emperor's residence 
when he removed from Kioto in 1868. The original 
buildings have been almost completely destroyed by 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 195 

fire, and the Imperial Palace is now an edifice in which 
the foreign and native styles of architecture are quaintly 
mingled, standing on the same site within the gardens 
of the ancient Hommaru. Wild-fowl frequent in winter 
the wide moats which divide the Imperial residence from 
the business thoroughfares of Tokio, and storks hover 
over the spreading branches of the pine-trees which 
overhang the water. In the summer the lotus-nym- 
phea covers the whole expanse, from bank to wall, 
with its noble, delicately-tinted flowers. Altogether 
there could be few more picturesque surroundings 
anywhere than those which add beauty and distinc- 
tion to the Japanese Emperor's residence. In the 
buildings of the palace only artisans of skilled ability 
have been employed, so that every design on the 
walls, every foot of the decorated ceilings, bear evi- 
dence of the touch of masterly hands. The choicest 
hanging brocades and tapestries were specially planned 
and woven for the embellishment of the Emperor's 
Banqueting Hall and Throne Chamber, but the pri- 
vate apartments are distinguished by their extreme 
simplicity, plain white woods and neutral tints taking 
the place of crimson lacquer and costly silks. 

The British Legation is situated on one of the outer 
concentric roads within the first moat, so that it is but 
a short distance from the gate of the Imperial Palace. 
Several well-built residences of British architectural 
design were erected in 1874 to house our Minister, 
his Secretaries, and general staff. Not far away is 



196 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the elegant building erected in 1877 for the College 
of Engineering, to which reference has been made 
in another chapter. Nagata-cho, the fine road ad- 
joining the moat farther on, contains many handsome 
residences, and is the most aristocratic of Tokio 
thoroughfares. In it stand the palaces of the late 
uncle of the Emperor, Prince Arisugawa, and of Prince 
Kita Shirakavva, his cousin, and near by is a small 
public garden containing a stone monument to the 
memory of Okubo Toshimichi, to whose wise counsels 
Japan owes much of her present prosperity, and who 
fell under the swords of fanatical assassins in Ma)-, 
1878, when on his way, as Home Minister, to a Con- 
ference at the Emperor's Palace. Prince Nabeshima 
of Hizen, now Grand Master of Ceremonies at the 
Imperial Court, has his residence also in this quarter, 
and a celebrated Shinto temple, the tutelary shrine 
of the last line of Shoguns, is here embowered in 
groves of the flowering cherry, so much cultivated for 
its magnificent blossoms. 

The Sho-kon-sha, on the top of Kudan Hill, is a 
shrine erected in 1869 in honour of the dead who fell 
in the war of the Revolution a year before, and services 
are constantly held within its precincts to the memory 
of the victims of the Saga and Satsuma rebellions of 
1873 and 1877, and more recently of the war with 
China. Nothing but the severest simplicity distin- 
guishes the interior of this State shrine, at which 
official gatherings take place twice a year, but the 




WHERE REST THE DEAD. 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 199 

entrance is marked by an exceptionally fine bronze 
archway, of the shape peculiar to the Shinto faith. 
The crest of the hill is also surmounted by an ancient 
lighthouse which once served to direct the fishermen of 
Yedo Bay, and by a remarkable stone erection in the 
shape of a bayonet, to the memory of those of the Im- 
perial Guard who fell during the Satsuma Campaign, 
provided by the soldiers of that corps. A brick build- 
ing termed the Yu-Shu-Kwan, or Museum of Arms, is 
daily thronged by sightseers, who are there treated to a 
display of the various spoils of war sent home by the 
Japanese armies from Korea and China. 

All the principal Government Offices are in this part 
of Tokio, so that it corresponds in some degree to 
Whitehall in London. The Ministries of Education, of 
Finance, and of the Interior, with the Government Print- 
ing Establishment, a noble building wherein the paper 
currency of the Empire and all the typographical work 
of the various departments are excellently designed and 
produced, have all their spacious quarters in the belt 
lying between the inner and outer moats of the castle 
precincts. 

Whilst the Palace was in course of construction His 
Majesty occupied a less pretentious edifice at Aoyama, 
in the south-west of the Capital, which has since been 
appointed as the residence of the Empress Dowager 
and the Crown Prince. In this vicinity is the Hibiya 
Parade Ground, on which reviews are annually held on 
State occasions, notably on the 3rd of November, His 



200 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Majesty's birthday. Azabu, nearer to the sea, and 
standing high, overlooking the bay, is regarded as one 
of the most desirable of residential quarters within the 
Japanese Capital. A look-out tower has been erected 
on Atago-Yama, a hill close by, from which views are 
obtainable of all the country for many miles round. 

The JIain Street. The new General Post Office 
stands in the main street called Ginza, and the principal 
fish market is close by, in the district of Nihon-bashi. 
Crossing Spectacles Bridge, with its two circular arches, a 
pleasantly-situated building is discerned amid groves of 
fragrant Osmanthus, now devoted to the purposes of an 
Educational Museum, but formerly the Temple of Con- 
fucius, wherein the Asiatic Society of Japan held its 
earlier meetings. The district of Kanda lies very cen- 
tral, and contains the Imperial University (Tei-koku 
Dai-gaku), comprising many handsome edifices built of 
brick in the modern fashion, standing in grounds which 
formerly were the property of the powerful daimio of 
Kaga, a province justly celebrated for its fine porcelain 
ware. 

Koishikawa Arsenal, on the route to Oji, has an 
exceptional interest at this time for all classes of the 
Japanese people, for here are manufactured the Murata 
rifles which have done such execution in the Chino- 
Japanese War. The mansion which stood on this 
ground was the residence of the former Prince of Mito, 
the head of one of those three branches of the Toku- 
gawa family, Kishiu, Mito, and Ovvari, from among 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 201 

which the Shoguns of the last dynasty were invariably 
chosen. Mito was responsible in 1861, as we have seen, 
for the assassination of the Regent then acting as Sho- 
gun. The Regent's choice had fallen upon a Kishiu 
prince, and the head of the Mito branch gave point to 
his wrath by the removal of the person to whom he 
attributed his disappointment. The Mito clan has left 
a magnificent legacy to the nation, in the shape of that 
perfect example of landscape gardening which forms 
the great charm of the Yashiki. Summer-houses and 
cascades, rivulets and lakes, islands reached by marble 
.bridges, thickets of creepers, groves of maple, plum, and 
cherry, delight the eye with their picturesque alterna- 
tions, art and nature here being wedded in the fashion 
so thoroughly characteristic of Japanese horticulture. 

In Gokokuji Cemetery, not far away, lies buried 
Prince Sanjo Saneyoshi, who, like Okubo, was one of 
the most prominent leaders of the Restoration, and 
many years the Prime Minister, prior to Marquis Ito. 
Sanjo died in 1891. 

i ciio. Ueno Park lies in the extreme north of 
Tokio, and is the place where all the exhibitions have 
been held. The Northern Railway Station is at the 
base of the hill which forms the centre of the Park. 
Here all Tokio delights to congregate at the blossoming 
of the cherry-trees, and here, on the plateau, is the stone 
monument to those who fell fighting for the last of the 
Shdguns, when, in 1868, a battle was decided on this 
spot. The Shinobadzu Pond below is famed for its dis- 



202 ADVANCE JAP AX. 

play in August of lotus-nymphea. In a little shrine, 
standing on a peninsula in the lake, is honoured the 
goddess Benten ; but the old-time associations of the 
lovely spot receive a rude shock when it is observed 
that the shore of the lake is now used as a racecourse. 
High above it is a modern hotel, and also a switchback 
railway, upon which startling innovations the calm 
gaze of Buddha, as represented close by in a bronze 
image twenty-one feet high and over two centuries 
old, seems to be directed in steadfast disapproval. 

The Ueno Museum stands close to the buildings of 
the National Industrial Exhibition, and contains, among 
other treasures, the ancient State bullock-cart and 
palanquins of the Emperors, and a model of the old 
State barge. Valuable collections of antiquities in pot- 
tery, swords, spearheads, and implements, porcelain and 
bronze vases, and Christian relics of the seventeenth 
century, arrest attention on every side. 

Tokio is not without its Zoological Gardens, contain- 
ing a representative collection of the fauna of Japan, 
and in the same part of the magnificent Ueno Park are 
to be found the Public Library and Reading Room of 
the Tosho-Kwan and a School of Art. 

Perhaps the most striking characteristic of all Tokio's 
glories are the tombs of the Shoguns, the mausolea in 
which are buried the princes of the Tokugawa family. 
The retired Shogun Keiki was the fifteenth prince of 
the Tokugawa house. The Go Rdya, as the tombs 
are termed, constitute perfect examples of the archi- 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 203 

tectural and decorative art of Japan, and are ablaze 
with gold and scarlet lacquer, mingled with intricate 
and priceless wood-carving, and marvellous bronzes. 

At a little distance eastward of Ueno is found the re- 
nowned temple of the Goddess of Mercy, Kwan-non, 
to which every traveller is taken by the Tokio guides 
as a matter of course, situated as it is at Asakusa, in 
close proximity to the River Sumida. 

At.ak.uMu. The Buddhist Sen-so-ji, to give the build- 
ing its true name, is surrounded by ornamental grounds, 
a sketch of which is to be found in a previous chapter. 
They contain splendid trees of almost infinite variety, 
and numbers of the shapely stone lanterns and quaintly 
constructed timber bridges which give to Japanese 
gardening so much of its picturesque character. The 
temple is the home of innumerable flocks of pigeons, 
which flutter about the heads of the devotees in that 
security from molestation which is everywhere associ- 
ated with the shrines of Buddha. The high altar is a 
glittering mass of gold and silver vessels, of lamps and 
flowers, hanging texts, and damask drapery, amid which 
is placed the sacred shrine of the goddess herself, 
guarded by gigantic figures. Images innumerable are 
ranged around the platform, and overhead and on every 
side are striking scenes depicted in gold and colours on 
the brass-studded walls and ceilings. One of the little 
temples in the grounds is much frequented by those who 
suffer from affections of the eye, the belief being that 
miraculous cures arc effected. In another building is 



204 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

worshipped Jizo, the divinity who specially guards the 
children of Japan. A revolving library of the Buddhist 
Scriptures, 6,771 volumes in all, to be turned thrice on 
its axis by the devotee who has not time to spare for 
reading, is likewise here displayed, the existence of 
which is understood to be due to the inventive genius 
of a Chinese priest who flourished in the sixth cen- 
tury. 

Outside the temple grounds proper are the pleasure- 
gardens for which Asakusa is famous far and wide. 
A modified form of Eiffel Tower was erected five years 
ago, whfch has an electrical elevator by which persons 
may ascend to the eighth of its twelve storeys, and 
obtain a wonderful view of the Capital. Tents and 
booths of all descriptions are scattered about, some for 
the exhibition of feats of wrestling or juggling, others 
with animal curiosities, fat women, learned pigs, or peep- 
shows. Taken as a whole, Asakusa Kwan-non and its 
surroundings constitute about as striking a contrast to 
the calm seclusion of the Ueno Tombs, not far away, 
as it is possible for the imagination of man to conceive. 

Across the River Sumida are the avenues of cherry- 
trees at Mukojima, which at their period of full bloom, 
about Easter, are a sight to be remembered, extending 
upwards of a mile along the river bank, and each tree 
and branch a mass of pink and white clustering 
blossom. Among other pretty customs of the place, 
poetically-disposed visitors are invited to write verses, 
on slips of cardbroad provided for the purpose at the 




POETRY AMID THE CHEERY-BLOSSOMS. 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 207 

neighbouring refreshment houses, and to suspend their 
compositions amid the cherry-blossoms, for the benefit 
of those who may attend afterwards to peruse them. 

Farther on are the Horikiri gardens where, in June, 
irises of every hue are shown in the utmost profusion, 
and at Kameido, on the same side of the Sumida, is 
a celebrated Shinto temple, where the Wisteria chinensis 
is cultivated over trellis-work with indefatigable care 
and skill. Hachiman, the Japanese Mars, has a splen- 
did temple to his honour close to the vast timber-yards 
which take up a large portion of the south-eastern 
suburbs of Tokio, and in the estuary is Ishi-kawa 
Island, the convict prison for the Capital. Altogether 
Tokio may be said to possess an abundance of show 
places, and its many interesting sights arc so thoroughly 
characteristic of Far Eastern life that they must be seen 
to be fully appreciated. 

Among the many outlying villages to which the 
residents of Tokio make frequent excursions at all 
times of the year is Oji, where in autumn the maples 
are a special attraction. Readers of Mr. Lawrence 
Oliphant's account of Lord Elgin's Mission to the 
East will remember his vivid description of one of the 
village tea-houses as it existed in his day. The neigh- 
bourhood has witnessed many changes, and the paper 
mills and other factories have destroyed the romantic 
surroundings of Ogi-ya and Ebi-ya, but the little temple 
and waterfall still have a charm for visitors. 

To sum up those salient features of the Japanese 



208 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Capital which go far to constitute its undoubted right 
to be regarded as the centre of civilisation in the distant 
Orient, it may be sufficient to say that there are three ex- 
tensive parks which, for natural beauty and artistic adorn- 
ment, are nowhere excelled in any Capital in the world ; 
fine thoroughfares of shops supplied with every article 
that a cultivated taste could require, both native and 
foreign ; street conveyances in the shape of trams, omni- 
buses, and cabs (for the Jin-riki-s/ia supplies the place of 
a hansom), a suburban railway connecting all outlying 
districts with the business centres, electrically-lighted 
streets and dwelling-houses, magnificent public build- 
ings, including the Foreign Legations, excellent club- 
houses, hotels, and restaurants. Three museums and 
a library provide for scientific or literary recreation. 
Three theatres and a wrestling arena, and several 
bazaars, afford enjoyment for sightseers, independently 
of the attractions of the various parks and public 
grounds already alluded to. Passenger steamers ply 
from the Capital to neighbouring places of interest on 
the coast, and from Yokohama, eighteen miles away, the 
principal mail steamship lines trading to the East have 
regular and frequent services joining the Japanese 
islands with Europe and America. The territory ruled 
by the Tenshi has become an integral part of that vast 
nineteenth century community of nations indissolubly 
linked in one common bond of enlightened progress. 

The population of Tokio and its suburbs, according 
to the official census of 1891, was 1,510,841, that of the 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 



209 



city proper being 1,217,309. The foreign residents in 
June, 1891, numbered 807, of whom 214 were British, 
204 American, and 133 German. Many of these resi- 
dents are in Government or Japanese employ. 

Government Offices. The principal departments 
of State are lodged in buildings for the most part of 
foreign architecture and construction. 

The Privy Council includes two gentlemen, Counts 




HOMEWARD FROM THE PICNIC. 



Matsugata Masayoshi and Higashikuze Michitomi, who 
were nobles of the old regime, and prominent, like all 
the members of the Cabinet, at the time of the Restora- 
tion. 



2io ADVANCE JAPAN. 

There is an Imperial Household Department, having 
its offices at the Imperial Palace, presided over by a 
Minister, Viscount Hijikata, and Vice-Minister Hana- 
busa, formerly Ambassador to Korea. 

Viscount Yamao Yozo, who studied engineering on 
the Clyde nearly three decades ago, is Grand Master of 
the Court of the Emperor's uncle, and similar offices are 
rendered by various gentlemen to the other relatives of 
the Emperor, viz. : Their Imperial Highnesses Princes 
Yamashina, Komatsu, Fushimi, Kuni, Kita-Shirakawa, 
and Kwanin. 

The- Okurasho, or Finance Department, includes the 
Custom Services and the Government Printing Office 
within the sphere of its control. 

The War Department, Riku-gun-slio, covers the Im- 
perial Guard, with Prince Akihito in command. Prince 
Taruhito, another of His Majesty's family, is head of the 
General Staff. 

The Kai-gun-sho, or Naval Department, has five prin- 
cipal bureaux, and controls five colleges, including those 
of medicine and naval engineering. The ZoJieisho, or 
Arsenal, and the Onohama dockyard, come under its 
superintendence. The branch establishments at Kure 
and Sasebo, in the provinces of Aki and Hizen, and at 
Yokosuka, in Tokio Bay, are also controlled from the 
Capital, Admirals Nakamuta, Hayashi, and Akamatsu 
being in command of the three depots in the order named. 

Perhaps the Moinbusho (Education Department) has 
a special claim on the attention of those who are stu- 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 211 

dents of Japanese progress. It has done marvellous 
work since its establishment in the first years of the 
Restoration, and covers a very wide field. Hamao 
Arata, the Chief Director of scholastic affairs, has held 
his office from the outset, and has distinguished himself 
by his urbanity and consummate ability. The Imperial 
University of Japan confers degrees in sixteen branches 
of science, having special colleges for the study of Law, 
Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Agriculture and 
Science (including Chemistry, Physics, Mathematics, 
Zoology, Astronomy, Geology, Dynamics, Paleontology, 
Botany, and Anthropology). 

The Higher Normal Schools at Kanda, male and 
female, have foreign instructors, as also the Middle 
School at Hongo. In the interior of Japan the Mombu- 
sho has foreign employees at Sendai, Kioto, Kanazawa, 
Kumamoto, Yamaguchi, and Kagoshima. The Higher 
Commercial School is well organised, with four foreign 
tutors. There is a School of Music and of Fine Arts. 
Last, but of great value, comes the Blind and Dumb 
School at Koishikawa, in Tokio. 

The Agricultural and Commercial Department em- 
braces bureaux for the control of agriculture, forestry 
mining, patents, silk factories, and the geological survey. 

The Department of Communications, Tci-s/tin-Sho, 
covers the Postal Service, Telegraphs, Marine, Light- 
house, Money Orders, and Savings Banks, Schools of 
Navigation and for Telegraphists and the Railway Ser- 
vice. 

P 2 



212 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

The Judicial Department includes the Supreme Court, 
and the Koso-In t Q\ Courts of Appeal, which sit in seven 
principal cities. 

The Metropolitan Police is a distinct department of 
the Public Service. 

The fact must have struck many minds in the West 
that a Japanese statesman appears to be able, and with 
the utmost facility, to lay aside the pen and wield the 
sword conversely, to resume the pen the moment the 
sword may be returned to its scabbard. In the recent 
Chinese War the Minister for War, Marshal Oyama, tem- 
porarily laid down his portfolio and undertook the com- 
mand, in person, of a second expedition, which was 
directed against Port Arthur. Marshal Yamagata, who 
became Minister of War in Oyama's place, was incon- 
sistent as it may seem to those who cherish ideas of the 
calm placid dignity which should surround the judicial 
office not only a statesman, but formerly Minister of 
Justice. From the Woolsack, so to put it, the Lord High 
Chancellor of Japan stepped into the tented field, and 
successfully wielded a Marshal's baton, until a temporary 
failure in health drove him once more into the gilded 
chamber of the Cabinet, although not to again become 
the Lord Chancellor of the Empire, but its Secretary of 
State for War. When one bears in mind, however, the 
early training of these gentlemen, who like their col- 
leagues, almost without exception, were born to carry 
arms, and received the military training in boyhood of 
a samurai, the seeming incongruity vanishes ; for a 




o 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF fAPAN, 215 

samurai, though ready at any time for battle, was usually 
by education a man of letters likewise. He was versed 
in the arts of peace as well as of war. The term samurai 
indicated gentle birth, and has of late years been replaced 
by the classification of shisoku. 

Kioto. Kioto, the western capital, otherwise known 
as Sai-kio, to distinguish it still more from Tokio, the 
eastern capital, ranks next in size to Tokio and Osaka. 
A little river, the Kamogawa, skirts the eastern boun- 
dary of the city, with the Katsuragawa on the west, 
both falling into the larger stream Yodogawa, which is 
a river of some importance in the region, just outside 
the grounds of Hongwanji Temple. The eastern section 
of the city gradually rises to the steep wooded heights 
of Higashi-Yama, a range of hills running east and 
west, and the city and its plain are further enclosed on 
the north and west by Hiyeizan and Atagoyama, which 
are both more than 2,500 feet high. It possesses over 
three hundred thousand inhabitants, and considerably 
over a thousand temples, distributed over 1,700 streets 
and the environs. The Kamogawa has a reputation for 
its clear water and pleasant evening breezes in sum- 
mer. The Japanese painter loves to depict the crowds 
of people on its banks, cooling themselves after the heat 
of a summer day. 

From the year 795 A.D. to 1868 Kioto was the place 
of residence of the Mikado, and for all this time it 
ranked not only as the scat of learning and culture, but 
as the centre of manufactures. In the principal in- 



2i6 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

dustries of the country Kioto still holds a leading place, 
particularly in the art products of silk, metals, and 
ceramics. Its beautiful thoroughfares are deservedly 
famed throughout the Empire for their cleanliness and 
regularity. Its architectural features are distinctly a 
grade above the average elsewhere. Above all, the his- 
torical associations of the ancient Capital claim atten- 
tion, for it was in this neighbourhood, and in a great 
measure within its boundaries, that some of the most 
moving scenes in the stirring history of Japan have 
taken place. 

The old palace of the Emperors stands in the north- 
eastern quarter of the town, out of reach of disturbance 
from the business portions, and was commonly known 
to the people as the Go-sho, or august residence. It 
was built of hinokt, a species of larch, and roofed with 
the bark of this tree, all the appointments of sliding 
partitions, mats, and verandahs, being strictly in accord 
with that unassuming good taste which distinguishes 
the residences of the aristocracy throughout the land. 
The park which surrounds the palace has more recently 
been employed to form the grounds of an Arts and 
Sciences Exhibition. 

Away to the south-west is the picturesque Nijo, the 
castle of the Governor who was deputed by the Shogun 
to administer the laws, for the Mikado, though resident 
in the palace, was regarded a demi-god, and took no part 
in mundane affairs outside his own gates. This spacious 
castle was built by the great Hideyoshi, and in its mas- 



THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF JAPAN. 217 

sive walls and gates, intricate carvings and decorated 
woodwork, there are yet evidences of the power and 
wealth of the famous chieftain. 

North of the Nijo was the centre of the silk-weaving 
trade, and in Awata and Kiyomidzu, districts lying 
across the Kamo river, were formerly located the 
enamel and earthenware, and the porcelain manufac- 
tories respectively. Over the Katsuragawa, in Arashi- 
yama, the cherry-trees present a magnificent sight in 
early spring, and the avenues are as much thronged 
then by the people of Kioto as are the Mukojima 
avenues in Tokio. 

A new canal conveys the water of Lake Biwa to the 
precincts of the city, and through it to the navigable end 
of the River Uji at Fushimi. This important engineer- 
ing work cost the citizens of Kioto .155,000, and was 
completed only three years ago under the supervision of 
Governor Kitagaki. The main trunk of the canal is 
about seven miles long, and pierces two ranges of moun- 
tains by three tunnels, one of which is over 8,000 feet 
long, and another 2,800 feet. The locks, tunnels, shafts, 
embankments, and viaduct, are all fine examples of 
engineering skill, wholly executed by Japanese. An 
inclined railroad of 1,920 feet connects one end of the 
main section with the lower level of the canal as it flows 
into the city. A large electric plant near the foot of 
the incline operates the gear that raises and lowers 
canal-boats from one level to the other, as well as a 
powerful electric motor by which the old Capital is 



218 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

lighted with electricity. The canal is a source of many 
other advantages to the city, and will in time fully repay 
the outlay upon its construction. 

By the Tokaido road the distance from the Capital 
to Kioto is about 325 miles, and it is 15 miles farther 
by another road termed the Nakasendd, or middle 
mountain road. From Tsuruga, on the west coast, it 
is 74 miles. 

In the adjoining province of Yamato, an ancient 
poetical title for the whole of Japan, stands Nara, 
a town of great historical interest as having been the 
earliest royal residence, and having a remarkable Bud- 
dhist temple in which the figure of Amida in bronze, 
seated as usual on the lotus-flower, towers to a height 
of 54 feet, and is the largest statue of the Buddha 
among many in the Empire. It dates from the eighth 
century. Close by is a deer-park in which deer have 
been preserved regularly for over a thousand years. 

Sakai, on the bay of Osaka, is celebrated as having 
long been the first commercial centre in Japan, but 
it has entirely been superseded by Osaka, the Japanese 
Venice, a score of miles distant. Perhaps it will be 
best remembered in history as the town where the 47 
Ronins assembled when on their errand to avenge the 
death of their feudal chief. 



219 




CHAPTER IX. 
TREATY'PORTS. 

S the port which \vas first opened 
to foreign trade in the year 
1859, prior to which foreigners 
had been allowed to carry on 
a restricted commercial inter- 
course at Nagasaki only, Yo- 
kohama ranks highest in the 
estimation of the mercantile 
population as a place of busi- 
ness. It has none of the attractions of the Capital for 
mere travellers, but as the home of by far the most 
numerous gathering of Europeans and Americans resi- 
dent on Japanese soil, and as the port from which that 
mutual trade sprang up which has since attained such 
formidable dimensions, Yokohama must be regarded 
from an Occidental point of view as a centre of 
paramount interest. When Commodore Perry arrived 
in the Bay of Ycdo in 1854, and requested a reply 
to that autograph letter from the President of the 
United States which he had delivered the year before 



220 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and which expressed to the Japanese Emperor a desire 
for the establishment of friendly relations, Yokohama 
was a mere collection of fishermen's cottages. The 
treaty which virtually opened the country was nego- 
tiated at Kanagawa, a mile and a half farther up the 
bay, and by its provisions certain arrangements were 
made under which the port of Shimoda, facing the 
Pacific Ocean, 60 miles south-west of Yokohama, be- 
came a place of residence for Americans, and depot 
for their commerce. Shimoda proved to be so un- 
suitable that it was replaced on the ist July, 1859, by 
Yokohama, and foreign residents soon began to gather 
in the new settlement. From the autumn of that 
year a trade was cultivated with the interior through 
native agents or bantos, and, apart from the rumours 
of impending conflict which reached their ears occa- 
sionally, the little community of merchants contrived 
to pass time cheerfully, and profitably as regards their 
banking accounts. In 1860 their troubles began, for it 
became apparent that the Bakufu, or Government of 
the Shogun, was weakening, and would not be able to 
carry out its treaty obligations. 

The public hall, assembly rooms,and theatre comprised 
in a splendid building of brick at the top of Camp Hill, 
one of the semicircle of low hills which form collectively 
" the bluff" of Yokohama, do credit to the enterprise of 
the oldest of the principal Treaty Ports. The bluff is 
about 150 feet above sea-level, and commands magni- 
ficent views of the bay, and of the mighty, but now 



TREATY PORTS. 223 

extinct, volcano Fujiyama 75 miles to the westward. 
The public gardens occupy a commanding position on 
these heights above the settlement, and have been laid 
out like the ornamental grounds of some ducal mansion, 
rich in sub-tropical verdure, and redolent with the 
odorous blossoms of the Orient. A walk through 
these gardens in the evening when the people of 
Yokohama, native and foreign, congregate to listen to 
music of the town band, is apt to give one the im- 
pression that the life of an exile in the Far East is 
far from the dreary, spiritless existence it is often 
represented to be. 

Charming villas are dotted about the carriage-roads 
of the bluff, mostly built in the bungalow style with 
spacious verandahs and gardens. Land was to be had 
at a cheap rate when this quarter was planned, and the 
residents were not driven to cramp their surroundings 
by considerations of heavy ground rents. The advan- 
tages conferred upon Yokohama by the possession of 
this lovely residential region are often overlooked when 
purely mercantile claims have to be considered. No 
other community in the East can boast of such oppor- 
tunities to make itself thoroughly at home, as are at 
the disposal of the foreign body in this port. 

Sport is pursued in all its branches with that ardour 
which distinguishes the Anglo-Saxon race wherever met 
with. An extensive racecourse is situated not far from 
the public gardens, and a magnificent recreation ground 
where cricket, tennis, and other games arc played with 



224 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

a zest which amazes the native population lies just 
in the rear of the business thoroughfares. Boating and 
yachting, rifle-shooting and athletics, further tend to fill 
the cup of youthful happiness to the brim. 

Fine buildings in stone and brickwork adorn the prin- 
cipal streets of the settlement. The town hall, with its 
clock-tower, the custom house, railway station, and local 
government offices are conspicuous among the sub- 
stantial erections which line both sides of the thorough- 
fares, or face the sea on "the Bund." These are tenanted 
mainly by banking corporations, silk and tea shipping 
firms, and storekeepers. The chief hotels overlook the 
bay, and a busy scene is presented to the visitor as 
vessels enter or leave the harbour with its wide-stretch- 
ing breakwaters. Far out in the navigable channel rides 
at anchor the Hommoku lightship, so named as lying 
off the division of Yokohama which bears this desig- 
nation. The tug's shrill whistle, or the deep boom of 
the mail-boat's syren, tell with cheering frequency of 
the trade which is being carried on afloat. 

Yokohama's chief anxiety prior to 1887 was centred 
in her lack of pure drinking water, but since that year 
an adequate supply has been brought from a safe source 
situated 20 miles away, and now the service is so good 
that the dread of ckoleraic germs no longer haunts the 
residents. Japan will never be free from an annual 
visitation of this scourge, but the European population 
seldom suffer when care is taken to avoid exposure. The 
death-roll varies in length among the Japanese year by 



TREATY PORTS. 227 

year, and they say that it is always longest after a war, 
but the virulence of the disease is more successfully 
combated as medical science progresses. Even the natives 
are no longer scared by its approach. 

It is intended to provide Yokohama with a pier 
2,000 feet long in addition to 12,000 feet of breakwater 
surface, and a graving dock forms part of the scheme 
now being carried out to the design and under the cap- 
able supervision of Major-General Palmer, R.E., con- 
sulting engineer to the Home Department. Prior to 
the commencement of these undertakings, Yokohama 
roadstead was grievously exposed in the typhoon 
season, and the work of loading and unloading ves- 
sels was often accomplished only with great danger 
and delay. 

Four daily papers (two of which are likewise published 
in weekly form), the Mail, Gazette, Herald, and Adver- 
tiser, provide almost a superabundance of reading matter 
for a normal foreign population of 5,000, of which 3,400 
or thereabouts are Chinese. Not a few of these returned 
to China on the outbreak of hostilities. The native and 
foreign residents taken together numbered 160,866 at 
the last census. 

The Church of England, French Catholic, Union 
Protestant, and other religious bodies are represented by 
fitting edifices, and many Japanese attend these places 
of worship as well as the foreign community. 

The Yokohama Chamber of Commerce was able to 
report that the entire trade for 1893 amounted to about 

Q2 



228 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

; 1 7,600,000 sterling, showing an increase over 1892 of a 
million and a half. 

Roiu> and Hiotfo. Kobe-Hiogo, the important 
Treaty Port in the Idzumi Nada, is the grand dep6t of 
foreign trade in Mid-Japan. It rejoices in the posses- 
sion of a safe harbour, though somewhat exposed to the 
south, and the associated towns stretch along the sea- 
coast for about three miles, with picturesque pine-clad 
mountains, rising to a height of 2,500 feet, one mile in 
the rear. Kobe, which forms the eastern section of the 
combined port, has a population of about six hundred 
Europeans and Americans, with close upon a thousand 
Chinamen, the war having greatly diminished the num- 
bers of this class of resident here, as well as at Yoko- 
hama. The latest census gave the total number of 
residents in Kobe and Hiogo together as 159,243. 

The " Model Settlement " as it claims to be has its 
affairs administered by a Municipal Council, composed 
of the Japanese Governor of the place and the Foreign 
Consuls. The police system is admirably organised, 
and the broad, clean, well-lighted streets testify to the 
excellence of the sanitary and general supervision 
exercised. Facing the beach, the dwelling-houses and 
offices of the foreign merchants afford a pleasing diver- 
sity of style in their architecture, and have a fresh and 
wholesome appearance from the proximity of shrub- 
beries and lawns. The esplanade boasts a fine stretch 
of turf and at the eastern end of the settlement are 
recreation grounds, well laid out, with abundant facili- 



TREATY PORTS. 231 

ties for tennis, and two or three club-houses. The race- 
course a short distance away, and a good cricket-field 
provide other forms of amusement, and there is good 
boating and sea bathing. 

Although the last of the Treaty Ports to be opened 
to foreign commerce, its growth was so rapid that it 
became in its second year a formidable rival to Yoko- 
hama. It has never attained quite the dimensions of 
the older port, but it is better laid out, the municipal 
authorities of the " Concession " having had a free 
hand to plan the streets thereof to their own liking. 
The sea-front extends nearly half a mile, and there 
is ample quay accommodation. The foreign settle- 
ment is separated from the native town of Hiogo by 
a narrow creek only, across which there are several 
bridges, and a considerable number of the foreign mer- 
chants actually dwell in Hiogo. The principal railway 
station is in the native town, that nearest to the Kobe 
settlement being distinguished as San-no-iniya t from the 
proximity of a noted Shinto temple of that name. 

Perched nearly at the top of the highest peak, behind 
the town, the temple of the Moon peeps out from groves 
of deep evergreen foliage, through which the steep and 
narrow ascent has to be made, but the toil of the journey 
is well recompensed when the summit is attained. On 
the way there is a famous waterfall, as much one of the 
lions of the place as is the waterfall at Penang. Every 
traveller is urged to visit this spot, and halfway up the 
hill-side are natural mineral springs as valuable in their 



232 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

way as those of Arima, twelve miles distant. The 
attractions of pretty scenery have induced restaurant- 
keepers and others to spread their nets for the diligent 
sightseer, who is in duty bound to spend some portion 
there of the time at disposal whilst the mail-steamer 
remains at anchor in the roadstead. 

Altogether Kobe is one of the pleasantest settlements 
of the Far East to reside in, and will serve as a pattern 
for the establishment of numerous little colonies, it is to 
be hoped, in other seaports of Japan which, in 1899, 
will be opened to foreign trade throughout the realm. 
It is the centre of a large shipbuilding industry, many 
vessels both iron and wooden ones being annually 
launched from the local yards. At the Imperial Ship- 
yard in Hiogo there is a patent slip, which accommo- 
dates steamers of 2,000 tons. The total length of the 
slip is 900 feet 300 of which are above water with 
a breadth of 38 feet and a slope of one in twenty, 
hydraulic power being available throughout. A large 
rice-cleaning mill has been in existence since 1885, and 
also paper mills. 

The enterprise of the place is fairly indicated by the 
support accorded to three foreign daily papers, the 
Herald, Chronicle, and Hiogo Ncius, and two native 
journals. Three foreign-owned and conducted hotels 
exist in the settlement, with many excellent shops. 
Ecclesiastical bodies are represented by the Union 
Protestant and French Catholic Churches, and also by 
a Protestant Church in the Japanese town. 



TREATY PORTS. 235 

Two of the heroes of Japanese mediaeval history are 
buried in the suburbs of Kobe and Hiogo, and the 
temples charged with the record of the valorous deeds 
ascribed to Kiyomori and Masahige Kusunosuke are 
right well preserved by the faithful. 

Kobe is the terminus of the Tokaido railway from 
Yokohama, 376 miles, and the Sanyodo railway, extend- 
ing at present to Hiroshima, some 240 miles, and shortly 
to be carried on to Shimonoseki Straits. The depot in 
Hiogo is well supplied with engine and carriage sheds, 
fitting and repairing workshops, and all the customary 
adjuncts to a large and busy central station. 

OMulia. Osaka is in Settsu, and commands respect 
as the second city of Japan. Its position is analogous 
in many respects to that of Liverpool or Glasgow with 
us. Unfortunately, its harbour is too shallow to permit 
large steamers to enter, and they have to lie off the 
bar at the mouth of the Yodo. Koraibashi, the Korean 
bridge, is situated in the centre of the town, and from 
it, as from Nihonbashi in Tokio, all distances are calcu- 
lated. The castle is a splendid example of the style of 
architecture which prevailed throughout the Shdgun 
period, and was in existence prior to the time of Hide- 
yoshi. The Tokugawa dynasty regarded it as one of 
their main strongholds, and always took care to place 
a thoroughly trustworthy governor in charge. It now 
holds an arsenal, and has a large garrison, being the 
headquarters of one of the six military divisions of 
the Empire. 



236 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Osaka boasts a population of 484,409 souls, and has 
131,000 houses. A portion of the city bears the name 
of Tennoji, the temple of the heavenly Kings, from the 
existence there of one of the most sacred fanes of the 
Buddhist religion. Another district is Kawaguchi, 
where a few European residents have dwelt since 1868. 
The Mint, in the north section of the town, is a Govern- 
ment department, where not only all the coin for the 
nation is minted, but gold from Korea is annually re- 
ceived to be converted into a coinage for the neighbour- 
ing kingdom. The plant for this Mint came from 
England, and was previously in use at Hong-Kong. 
The Japanese Government purchased the whole thing, 
and engaged Major Kinder and a staff of assayers to 
start the work at Osaka in 1869. 

Owing to the bar at the river's mouth, the foreign 
trade of Osaka has never risen to importance, large 
steamers having to load at Kobe, 25 miles distant. The 
railway has quite supplanted the fleet of small steamers 
which at one time plied in the bay with passengers. 

Up to the end of the fifteenth century, Osaka bore 
the name of Naniiua, an abbreviation of Naini-Jiaya, the 
name Jinmu Tenno bestowed on the place when he 
found the waves so violent (implied by the compound 
word) as to impede his disembarkation, in 660 B.C. 

It is now the centre of a large cotton-spinning indus- 
try, and has extensive shipbuilding yards and flourishing 
ironworks. The foreign residents, 122 in number, are 
mostly connected with missionary enterprise. 



TREATY PORTS. 237 

. The first port in the early days to be- 
come known to the outer world, Nagasaki retains more 
than ordinary interest for Occidentals, and if it has 
been out-paced in regard to trade by its more modern 
rivals, Yokohama and Kobe, it nevertheless has still a 
large share of the commerce of the country, both ex- 
ternal and internal. Its dock is a refuge for vessels 




A JAPANESE-BUILT TORPEDO-BOAT. 

of large size when needing repair, for it can accommo- 
date a ship of the largest class, being 438 feet long 
375 feet on the blocks and 90 feet in width. At high 
water, spring tides, there are 27 feet at the entrance, 
and 22 at neap tides. The Aka-no-ura engine-works 
facing the town, on the other shore of the magnificent 
almost land-locked inlet which forms Nagasaki har- 
bour, so well known to mariners, now belong to the 
Mitsu Bishi Steamship Company, one of the most suc- 
cessful of Japanese trading concerns. Formerly the 
establishment was Government property, and some 



238 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

splendid marine engineering work has been executed 
by a mixed staff of skilled native and foreign engineers 
and artificers, who are now engaged by M. Iwasaki 
Yanosuke, one of Japan's merchant kings. 

Nagasaki owes much to the discovery of coal at 
Takashima, only a few miles distant from the mouth 
of the harbour, where the mineral has been mined suc- 
cessfully for 30 years, principally at the instigation of 
Mr. T. B. Glover, C.E., one of the oldest residents of 
the port. Takashima and other local mines called 
Nakanoshima, have been putting out close on half a 
million tons annually, and the quality is such that it 
has found a ready sale to steamers all along, though 
recently the Miike mines, elsewhere alluded to, have 
proved sturdy competitors for the foreign trade. 

Compared with Yokohama or Kobe, the settlement 
is small, but it boasts two clubs, a masonic lodge, and 
several hotels, with a few good shops, or "stores" as 
they are universally termed in the East. By-and-bye, 
Nagasaki may come again into prominence, as the 
branch railway is being pushed forward to connect 
the town with the main trunk-line of the Kiushiu rail- 
way, which traverses the island from north to south, 
beginning at Shimonoseki Straits. It will then be 
practicable to leave the mail-steamer, and take train 
for Yokohama and the Capital, saving several days' sea 
journey. 

The climate is exceedingly mild and salubrious, and 
has attracted many foreign residents to the charming 



TREATY PORTS. 239 

villas, situated in romantic nooks and glens towards the 
entrance of the inlet. The French Catholic body have 
always made Nagasaki a stronghold, and the services 
at their cathedral are well attended by the natives. 
The Anglican and other religious denominations are 
likewise well represented. Out in the harbour's mouth 
stands the isle of Papenberg, and a few miles distant is 
the village of Mogi, both of which places possess a 
melancholy interest from the scenes there enacted at 
the beginning of the seventeenth century. But the 
times have changed, and intolerance has been succeeded 
by the utmost freedom in respect of religious thought 
and observance. 

The new waterworks have three filter-beds, and pro- 
vide a supply of 90 millions of gallons, so that Naga- 
saki, like Yokohama, may now feel comparatively at 
ease on the subject of the drinking-water supply for its 
large population, among which are ordinarily included 
356 persons of American, British, Dutch, and other 
nationalities foreign to Japan, and some 654 Chinamen, 
a large proportion of whom are temporarily absentees. 
The Rising Sun newspaper and two native journals 
keep their subscribers well posted as regards the outer 
world's affairs. 

PromiMiiig MoaportM Tor Future Trade* To 
Europeans the prospect of free intercourse with the 
interior of Japan should have immense attractiveness. 
The ports which are now open to foreign commerce con- 
stitute by no means the only favourable places for carry- 



240 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

ing on trade. There are numerous points on the coast 
more conveniently situated as regards their proximity to 
the great centres of those industries for which Japan is 
famed, and which form her staple exports. 

This is particularly true of the west coast, and in Tsu- 
ruga, in the province of Jakushiu, there is an instance of 
a conveniently situated port which may one day form 
the terminus of a line of steamers communicating with 
the coast of Korea, or with the terminus of the Trans- 
Siberian Railway, wherever that may ultimately be 
located. Tsuruga has a branch railway joining it to the 
main railway system of the Empire, and in point of 
position should become a great trading centre. Matsuye, 
in Idzumo, is another harbour which should prove 
valuable in tapping a district which may not for years 
to come be adequately served by railways. Miyadzu, 
also a port on the west coast, may come into promin- 
ence. It is best known now by its possession of the 
Ama-no-Hashidate (lit. Ladder of Heaven), one of 
Japan's loveliest landscapes. 

Koehi. Kochi, the chief town of Tosa province, has 
long been known to Europeans as an enterprising place, 
and when full freedom of access can be attained, should 
provide a place of residence for Europeans and a singularly 
eligible locality for the profitable investment of foreign 
capital. Tosa has long enjoyed the reputation of being 
one of the richest provinces of Japan, and its people 
are among the most enlightened and energetic. Shi- 
koku Island has not had a Treaty Port hitherto, and 



TREATY PORTS. 243 

its trade has all been carried on through Kobe and 
Osaka. In all probability Kochi should be the first 
point to which the attention of enterprising foreign 
merchants and manufacturers should be early directed, 
on account of its influence over the interior trade of 
Shikoku. Its residents number 35,992. 

Yokkuichi. There are several ports to which the 
coasting steamers of the Yu-sen Kai-sha already trade 
regularly, and in which a large foreign trade should be 
developed in the near future. One of these is Yokkaichi, 
in the Owari Gulf, at which grain steamers already load 
rice very extensively. There should be an opening at 
this town for the export of tea, as it lies close to one of 
the most extensive tea-growing districts. Yokkaichi is 
the port for the large castle town of Nagoya, a few miles 
higher up the gulf, and the district is likewise the centre 
of silk and porcelain industries. A great deal of the 
porcelain comes from Kaga, on the other side of the 
island, and would find its natural outlet at Tsuruga, or 
Toyama, both harbours on that coast, but the Banko or 
Owari ware would be shipped from Yokkaichi (Four- 
day Market) on the southern slope of Hondo. A rail- 
way has been constructed, joining the port to the main 
line. 

Mt'iidui. Farther to the north, in the province of 
Kikuzen, is the large town of Sendai, the former seat of 
one of the most powerful daimios. Marquis Date's income 
was fully half a million sterling per annum. In the bay of 
Sendai, renowned for its beautiful scenery, is Matsushima^ 

R 2 



244 ADVANCE JAl'AN. 

one of the San-kei, or three superlatively lovely places 
famed in Japanese history. Sendai is the natural seaport 
for the trade of the northern provinces, and lies midway 
between Tokio and Aomori, on the great northern rail- 
way line of Japan. Some missionary families are already 
resident in the place, and situated as it is in about 
Lat. 38 15' north, the climate is all that could be desired 
for European residents. 

Inland Sen. Funai, the chief town of Bungo, in 
Kiushiu, is a place which should well repay exploitation, 
lying in a beautiful bay of the Inland Sea, but hitherto 
out of the track of steamships. Onomichi, on the 
northern shore of the same sea, is a port possessing a 
very large native trade, and from time immemorial it has 
been a harbour for junks. Its position gives it the com- 
mand of a large inland traffic. Wakayama, at the mouth 
of Idzumi Nada, has always been the capital of Kiushiu, 
a region second to none for enterprise, and for its salu- 
brity. 

The list might be extended indefinitely, but it may 
suffice now to point out that the opening of Japanese 
ports to foreign trade and residence, when the existing 
treaty comes into operation, should have interest for not 
a few who have hitherto refrained from embarking in 
commerce with the Far East. Our Chambers of Com- 
merce may do well to gather all the data that may be 
procurable with regard to shipments at these and other 
ports from which the direct European trade is no longer 
to be excluded. Increased facilities are certain to bring 



TREATY PORTS. 245 

increase of business, and it may be that foreign capital 
can be advantageously used to set up machinery on the 
spot at places where cotton and other products are 
already cultivated. There must be many towns in the 
heart of Japan where industrial enterprise would be 
certain to meet with success. The people are handy 
and willing, labour is unquestionably cheap, the cost of 
living low and the climate delightful. 

Though the date seems far distant when the vital 
change will come into operation, yet something can 
be done in the way of preparation, and though it is 
scarcely likely that any " rush " will ensue, it is tolerably 
certain that British capitalists at large will take no harm 
by examining thoroughly the nature of the commerce 
now carried on with Japan, and gravely considering the 
prospects in regard to that which may with profit be 
engrafted thereupon. 

Other nations will not be slow to seize any advantage 
there may be to secure by prompt action, and as the 
time draws near there will be much to arrange. The 
Japanese Government will be careful to have every- 
thing cut and dried in readiness for an invasion of 
Western commerce at all the more likely ports on 
the coast, and long ere the time actually arrives the 
new code of laws, under which justice will be adminis- 
tered, will be available for the inspection of intending 
settlers. 

Japan, from being regarded as the play-ground of 
Europe, should presently become one of the busiest 



246 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



marts of the world's industries, for, if I mistake not, it is 
by way of Japan, and through her good offices, that 
Europe and America will be able to open up markets 
upon a hitherto unprecedented scale in China and 
Korea. 




247 




CHAPTER X. 

COMMUNICATIONS. 

N no department of progress have the people of 
Nihon made greater strides than in regard to 
their internal and external lines of communi- 
cation. Improvement in this respect was 
greatly needed, and from the outset it was 
recognised that until ample facilities for travel- 
ling, and for the interchange of letters, could be secured 
to the public at large, there could be but compara- 
tively little headway made against the forces of ignor- 
ance and superstition. The condition of the high-roads 
was seldom suited to wheeled vehicles, for prior to 1860 
the bullock-drays employed in the transport of merchan- 
dise were the only conveyances of the kind in existence 
Japan made one stride from the sedan-chair to the first- 
class railway car, without any intermediate stage of 
vehicles drawn by quadrupeds. There is a miniature 
gig in general use, however, in which draught-bipeds are 
actively engaged, for which the Japanese may take credit 
as one of the most remarkable institutions of the East. 
The .lin-riUi-Mhu. It made its appearance in Yoko- 
hama in 1871, and like the individual who first made use 



248 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

of an umbrella, he was a bold man who first took a seat 
in this conveyance, to be whirled through the thorough- 
fares of the native town behind a half-clothed native 
runner. From Yokohama the idea rapidly spread, how- 
ever, and in a short time thousands of these little gigs, 
termed in the vernacular fin-riki-sJia, or man-power- 




A 



THE JIN-RIKI-SHA. 



carriage, were placed upon the streets of the principal 
cities for hire. But the scope of the new invention was 
not limited to the centres of population, for the handy 
contrivances soon found their way to the outlying vil- 
lages, and thence to the large towns of the interior. 
Where it had been customary to hire a sedan-chair, termed 



COMMUNJCA TIONS. 249 

norimono in Japan, or in its simplest form a kago, for a 
stage of six or eight English miles, it now became the prac- 
tice to engage a jin-riki-sha, at very little higher rate of 
pay. The posting stations, at which pack-horses or kago- 
bearers were formerly to be hired for the next stage, 
now took up the novelty and provided gigs for their 
clients, the draught-bipeds being held responsible for 
the due delivery of the travellers entrusted to their care. 
Year by year the jin-riki-sha increased in popularity, 
and wherever the roads are of moderate gradient the sedan 
has entirely given place to the more speedy wheeled 
vehicle, until at the present day it has become the uni- 
versal mode of transport for individual voyagers and 
their baggage. 

Not only has Japan benefited herself by this more 
convenient system of travelling, but the miniature gigs 
have been exported to China and Singapore, to the ex- 
tent that they are almost as familiar objects in- the streets 
of the coast ports of the Yellow Sea, and of the Straits 
Settlements, as they are on the Bund at Yokohama. An 
effort has been made to introduce them into London 
thoroughfares, but the preponderance of wheeled traffic 
is already such as to preclude the possibility of our ever 
making room for man-power carriages in this Metropolis. 
In Hong-Kong and Shanghai the gigs have largely sup- 
planted the native palanquin, and the Chinese runners, 
though seldom so fleet as the Japanese, have taken very 
kindly to the employment. 

Excursion diullilw. Throughout Japan there is a 



250 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

system in operation by which the licensed victuallers 
of the nation subscribe to one or other, sometimes to 
several, travellers' guilds, by which means a twofold 
object is attained. The guild is able to secure for the 
guest at any of the hotels the most considerate treat- 
ment at the hands of the landlord, whilst the innkeeper 
is at least confident of obtaining his full share of the 
trade. Few Japanese travel unless under the auspices 
of the Tsu-un-ko, the Bun-mei-ko, or other of their 
kindred guilds; and the immunity thereby ensured from 
risk of overcharge, or loss of property on the journey, 
is of no small value to both native and foreign pas- 
sengers. The modus opcrandi is simple enough. On 
setting out from his home the intending tourist receives 
from the local office of the guild a map and a guide- 
book, giving all needful particulars regarding the route 
he purposes to take. Such books are corrected from 
time to time, and brought up to date by the addition of 
new material. The distances between the towns are 
clearly set forth, with directions how to reach objects 
of interest lying on or near the road to be followed, 
and a choice of hotels is given in every large village 
or town to be visited. Japanese inns have signs like 
those of European countries, and the similarity of 
objects chosen is often very striking. The commonest 
signs in Japan are perhaps the Cock, Bull, Eagle, Pine, 
and Bamboo. Fuji (the Wisteria) and Masu (Salmon- 
trout) are also very frequently to be met with. Other 
conspicuous inn-titles, of less appropriate application 



COMMUN1CA TIONS. 25 1 

from an English point of view, are those of Nedzumi 
(Rat) or Mukade (Centipede), but the animal and 
vegetable kingdom are well represented throughout. 
Pictorial representations are lacking, but the letters 
forming the inn-name are engraved in gold or colours so 
as to attract the eye, and with the exception that royalty 
is not associated with sign-boards in the Far East, the 
custom of the trade in this respect is pretty much the 
same as in Western lands. No innkeeper in Japan has 
yet tried the effect of hoisting the " Mikado's Head " 
over his door as an inducement to travellers to enter ; 
and probably, should ever the experiment be made, it 
will prove to be too costly for repetition. 

Cheap Hotels. A landlord is bound by the rules of 
his guild to affix his seal to the traveller's guide-book, 
so that should it be necessary at any time to investi- 
gate a complaint of exorbitant charges, or negligent 
service, the book may be produced in evidence. A not 
uncommon practice among old-fashioned travellers is to 
carry a memorandum-book, in which the innkeeper is 
invited to enter his own bill on the first vacant page. 
The book affords indication of the prices which its 
owner has paid for his accommodation at previous 
stages of his journey, and by inference those which it 
will be agreeable to him to pay. The account-book 
serves as a record of the journey, and it is as well, on 
setting out, to make sure that the first entry on its 
pages is founded on strictly economical principles, as 
it will serve to some extent as an example for other 



252 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

landlords to follow. The Bun-mei-ko has a scale of 
charges which its adherents are expected to conform 
to. Under the ordinary rates a traveller has a right 
to expect his supper, bed, and breakfast to be pro- 
vided for him at a cost of less than one shilling in a 
guild hotel. It is usual, however, for a well-to-do guest 
to order a special dish or two, and to make a small 
present for " tea-service," which may bring the total 
expenditure to sixpence more, at present rates of ex- 
change. These charges cover the supply of hot water 
for a bath, and entitle the visitors to expect that 
they will be met at the entrance to the town and 
escorted to the inn ; likewise that the landlord or his 
representative will set out with them on the morrow, and, 
after seeing them well on their way, will wish them bon 
voyage with the accompaniment of his best bow. There 
can be few countries under the sun where landlords do 
so much for the guests on such an extremely low tariff. 
The rapidity of railway travelling has of course 
much modified these arrangements on the routes fol- 
lowed by the lines actually at work, but there are 
many hundreds of miles of high-road, in remote dis- 
tricts, where the old customs still prevail, and where it 
is unlikely any material change will be made for a 
decade to come. Those who may visit Japan in 1899, 
on the opening of the entire land to European trade, 
therefore, are likely to still find traces remaining of that 
" old Japan " which was not without its special charm. 
Many people of sedate manners for there are old- 



CO MM UN 1C A TIONS. 253 

fashioned folk even in modern Japan still prefer to 
travel by the high-roads, just as there are English people 
who have a lingering fondness for the coach and horses 
of our forefathers, and patronise that mode of convey- 
ance wherever it is yet to be met with. In Japan they 
seldom allow their prejudices to prevail with them so far 
as to reject the modern jin-riki-ska, in favour of the an- 
cient norimono, for the era of sedan-chairs seems alto- 
gether to have passed away since railways became at 
all popular. Thus it happens that there is consider- 
able gig traffic along the Tokaido, for example, in 
spite of the close proximity of a line of railway and 
express trains. To the advent of thejtn-rt&t-s/ta, indeed, 
must be ascribed in great measure the vast improve- 
ment in the condition of the roads which has been 
effected during the last 20 years. In 1875 there was a 
General Assembly of Prefects at the Japanese Capital, 
and one of the problems presented to the Conference 
for solution was that relating to the obvious necessity 
for providing suitable roadways throughout the Pro- 
vinces for the passage of thejin-ri&t-sAa, which, even at 
that early stage of its existence, gave promise of a life 
of great usefulness. It is safe to say that this diminu- 
tive vehicle has played a most prominent part in the 
development of the country, and it has not received by 
any means the credit it deserves. The construction of 
roads suitable for the heavier type of vehicles ordinarily 
drawn by horses would have entailed so vast an expen- 
diture of both time and money that the development of 



254 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the Empire would have been retarded for several years. 
Not only would a far higher standard of solidity have 
been demanded, but considerably greater width, for 
even the Tokaido was in places narrow and tortuous 
prior to 1875, and to have widened it, and strengthened 
its bridges, sufficiently to make it practicable for pair- 
horse omnibuses throughout its length, would have 
entailed far greater monetary responsibilities than the 
provincial authorities were at that time prepared to 
incur. The Prefects assembled at Tokio recognised the 
paramount necessity of furnishing enhanced facilities for 
internal communication, and cordially welcomed the 
newly-arrived man-power-gig as the most serviceable of 
instruments for effecting their purpose. With an ex- 
treme breadth of not more than four feet, including the 
wheels, each gig is made to serve for the conveyance of 
two persons, on a push, seated side by side, with a port- 
manteau on the footboard, and a pair of such vehicles 
may contrive to pass each other on a road nine feet 
wide. Many of the by-roads and lanes of the Provinces 
were at that period of no greater width than this, and 
could only be classed as bridle-paths. The traffic upon 
them was purely pedestrian, rarely disturbed even by 
a passing pack-horse, and as a result, communication 
with towns and villages only slightly removed from the 
beaten track was necessarily tedious and toilsome. Visits 
to notable shrines, situated off the high-road, Nikko for 
example, were pilgrimages which could only be made 
on foot. Merchandise could only be transported, in 



COMMUNICATIONS. 257 

limited quantities, on men's shoulders. The appearance 
of the jin-riki-sJia upon the scene changed the entire 
aspect of affairs. Travellers at once became able to 
accomplish double and treble the distance in a day they 
had previously attempted when obliged to walk. The 
outlying temples and places possessing historical asso- 
ciations were discovered to possess virtues undreamt of 
whilst journeys to them had compulsorily to be made 
on foot. The priests and hotel-keepers rejoiced and 
blessed the wee agents of so much prosperity. A 
tradesman would load up his wares on one vehicle, 
and taking his seat in another, would be borne off at 
a run to a distant town, where he would introduce his 
goods to a new market. It was palpable that the 
jin-riki-sha had come to aid the Government in the 
inauguration of a new regime. The drawing on a pre- 
vious page will afford a clear idea of the man-power- 
gig which has done so much for Japan, and for other 
countries in the Far East. 

Claanftticutioii or High-roads. The assembled 
Prefects came to the conclusion that all the roads of the 
Japanese Empire should be classified according to the 
nature of the services they would be thenceforward 
called upon to render, and definite arrangements made 
for their due maintenance and repair. With that admir- 
able devotion to systematic organisation which distin- 
guishes the proceedings of Government bodies in Japan, 
the deliberations of the Conference, afterwards approved 
by the Supreme Council, took definite shape in an 

S 



258 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

arrangement whereby the National roads, supported 
entirely out of the Imperial Funds, were distinguished 
from the Prefecture roads, for the maintenance of which 
the Imperial Exchequer is saddled with a moiety only 
the other half of the expenditure being borne by the 
Local Boards and the village roads, for the up-keep 
of which contributions are levied in the districts actually 
served. National roads, which correspond to the great 
highways of the United Kingdom, are subdivided into 
three classes, the first of which possess a minimum 
width of 42 feet, and are the main links of communica- 
tion between Tokio and the Treaty Ports. This regula- 
tion involves the provision of a road never less than 14 
yards broad from Nagasaki in the far south, to Hako- 
date in the extreme north, passing through the ports of 
Kob6, Osaka, and Yokohama on the way, with a branch 
to Niigata in the north-west. The length of this high- 
road, which bears various names according to the dis- 
tricts it traverses, is not less than 1,200 miles, the general 
shape of the islands of Japan being long and narrow. 
Such an excellent provision for the wheeled traffic of the 
country is more than sufficient to meet the demands of 
horsed vehicles in those sections of the highway where 
such accommodation exists, and will admit of the 
general introduction of waggons and carriages drawn 
by quadrupeds, in supersession of the diminutive jin- 
riki-sha, when that lowly but most advantageous con- 
veyance shall have outlived its present sphere of use- 
fulness. 



COMMUNICATIONS. 259 

National Highway*. National roads of the second 
class have a width of 36 feet, and are such as constitute 
the arteries of travel to the venerated shrines of Ise, 
or temples of the Sun-god, wherein are reverenced the 
ancestral tablets of that dynasty of Mikados whose 
direct descendant occupies the Japanese throne. The 
pilgrimages to Ise are very numerously attended, large 
parties annually setting out from the most distant 
regions of the Empire at about midsummer, just after 
the rice shoots have been transplanted, when the able- 
bodied members of the farmers' families can be spared 
for a brief spell from the otherwise engrossing duties of 
agriculture. The throngs of worshippers require a fairly 
wide road by which to reach their destination, and so the 
Ise roads, where they quit the main route of the Tokaido, 
are maintained in the second class, and in constant 
repair. This class of thoroughfare likewise includes the 
roads communicating with the principal cities throughout 
the Empire, apart from those actually situated on that 
main highway of the first class previously described. 
The second class roads also lead to the various military 
depdts of the War Department, and these depdts are 
further connected with the chief cities of their vicinity 
by roads of a minimum width of 30 feet. National 
roads of this third class, i.e., those at least 30 feet wide, 
join the Capital with all the various prefectures of the 
interior not otherwise provided for, so that a very com- 
plete network of road communications is ever at the 
service of the Government, connecting the Capital with 

s 2 



260 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

every centre of local authority, from the farthest ex- 
tremity of the Mikado's territory in Yeso, to the southern 
limit of Satsuma at Kagoshima. 

Prefectural Highway*). Those high-roads, toward 
the support of which a call is made upon the resources 
of the Provincial Boards of Control, to the extent of one 
half the total expenditure, are from 24 to 30 feet wide, 
and join the various prefectures one with another or con- 
nect military stations with their outposts. This class of 
highway is also considered sufficient to place the head 
offices of the prefects, in towns dignified by their per- 
petual residence, in communication with the outlying 
branch offices of sub-prefects in adjacent towns of 
secondary importance. The roads to seaports in the 
neighbourhood, or to places which have a certain vogue 
as health resorts, or as specially endowed by nature in 
the matter of beautiful scenery, must not be less than 
24 feet wide. 

Village Honda. Village roads are those of the 
Third Section, and are regarded in this category if they 
merely serve the purposes of land cultivation, or have 
been constructed as part of some scheme of irrigation, 
to provide improved facilities for pasturage, or for manu- 
facturing or mining enterprises. Roadways, laid out in 
order to benefit Buddhist or Shinto monasteries come 
under this designation, and it is a suggestive fact that 
the Government of the country, whilst insisting upon 
the villagers concerned submitting for approval the 
plans and estimates framed for these public works, ac- 



COMMUNICATIONS. 261 

cords to the happy peasantry the privilege of paying 
the entire cost. 

The classification of highways thus adopted bears a 
close resemblance to that in operation in France, and the 
Japanese Prefectural system has been largely modelled 
upon that of the French arrondissements. It speaks 
volumes for the good sense of the Government officials 
that they confined their attention to the duty of im- 
proving existing roads and channels of intercourse, and 
rendering them passable for light vehicles of the type 
already described, when they might have been tempted, 
with some show of reason, to sink vast sums in laying 
out highways of an elaborate description, which, how- 
ever serviceable in years to come, would have been con- 
siderably in advance of the requirements of the hour. 
In the making of sound roads throughout the country 
the officials have been prompted by considerations of 
prudence and economy, as much as by a desire to open 
up the interior. Regarded in combination with their 
fast-growing railway system, the Japanese people may 
now be said to possess highways of a character com- 
mensurate with their needs, and sufficient to serve in 
the development of the nation's resources for many 
years to come. 

Severely Fraction!. Whatever may be said in the 
way of praise of those magnificent avenues of crypto- 
mcria with which the Sh6gun lycyasu decorated the 
highways of a bygone age, many of which have survived 
the typhoons of autumn and the storms of winter to 



262 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

gladden the eye by their noble proportions and sen- 
sibly to ameliorate the toil of travel, it must be ac- 
knowledged that the works hitherto undertaken by the 
present Emperor's Government have been much less 
ornamental in character. The roads have been ren- 
dered serviceable, but surely not beautiful. There are 
often no hedgerows or other form of border, no trees, 
pales, or palisades to mark the edge of the straight un- 
deviating track across a succession of rice-fields. But, 
if not picturesque, the roads are eminently useful ; and 
the time may come when the question of embellishment 
may be taken up quite as enthusiastically as any admirer 
of artistic Japan could desire. Just now it suits the 
nation to be, above all things, practical and progres- 
sive. 

If these expressions have any weight in connection 
with the improvements which have been effected on the 
roads, they must apply with even greater force when we 
investigate the nature of Japan's progress in regard to 
railways and telegraphs. 

The Railway to tfce Capital. The instant that 
the leading spirits of the Revolution had leisure to turn 
their attention to the duties of reorganisation, the im- 
perative necessity of establishing railway communication 
throughout the Empire was cordially recognised, and 
steps were taken to forge the first link of the chain 
by the construction of a line, 18 miles long, from the 
port of Yokohama to the capital of Tokio. Engineers 
were engaged from England and India to carry out the 



COMMUNICATIONS. 263 

requisite surveys and establish the line on the European 
model. Funds for the great work were procured by 
floating a loan at nine per cent interest through the 
agency of the Oriental Banking Corporation, and the 
agent of the bank in Japan was installed, in the interests 
of the bondholders, as European general manager of 
the Imperial railways. The first engineer-in-chief of the 
projected line, Mr. Morel, died during its inceptive stage, 
and was succeeded by Mr. R. Vicars Boyle, C.S.I., who 
had had considerable experience on British Government 
railways in India. By the close of 1871, not only were 
the works in a very advanced stage, but a second line of 
railway had been laid out, and work commenced upon 
it in another part of the country, 350 miles to the south- 
west. By the summer of 1872, trains were running from 
Yokohama to Shinagawa, a suburb of Tokio, and the 
Japanese public were beginning to realise some of the 
advantages which a newly-established system of Govern- 
ment was designed to confer upon them. But these 
brilliant results were not achieved without encounter- 
ing many difficulties, natural and artificial. The natural 
obstacles were surmounted by the exercise of much 
patient skill, and were met with principally at the bridg- 
ing of the rivers, where shifting beds of sand and sud- 
den floods of irresistible volume demanded, and received, 
the attention of trained and indefatigable specialists 
in railway construction. The formation of an embank- 
ment parallel to the shore of Yedo Bay, by which the 
line had to be carried forward from Shinagawa to the 



264 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

terminus at Shinbashi, in the Capital itself, a distance 
of three miles in all, likewise constituted an engineering 
work of some prominence. But the difficulties artifi- 
cially created by landowners, and by that section of the 
Japanese public which secretly viewed the introduction 
of foreign inventions with disfavour, notwithstanding the 
progress already made, tended perceptibly to thwart and 
delay the completion of the undertaking. 

This section of 18 miles was actually opened for public 
traffic on the I2th of June, 1872, though the State cere- 
mony was deferred till the I2th of October. It was then 
a single road only, but in 1880 it was made a double 
line throughout. Rokugo river bridge, midway, has 30 
spans, and is built of iron. The average cost per mile 
(.34,263) seems extravagant, but this was Japan's first 
attempt at railway construction. Other lines have been 
built far more cheaply since. When first the line was 
established all the rolling stock was procured from Great 
Britain, but now the whole of it is made in Japan, save 
the locomotives and some of the ironwork. 

This is the first and only double line in Japan, but 
the others will be widened and doubled by degrees. On 
an average two and a quarter millions of passengers are 
conveyed yearly, and the earnings are about 120,000, 
working expenses being, roughly speaking, one third of 
this amount. Fares are very moderate. 

The Kobe and Oaaltn Section* The railway 
from Kobe to Osaka, 22 miles long, was opened next 
in the year 1874. Tunnels and bridges were costly 



COMMUNICATIONS. 265 

items in the construction, but nevertheless the average 
rate worked out at 33,970 per mile. A bridge 1,190 
feet long spans the Mukogawa, and the culverts and 
bridges all told number no fewer than 209. The tun- 
nels, three in number, have a combined length of 750 
feet, and carry the track beneath the beds of rivers. 
In 1880 this section was extended to Otsu, 11^ miles, 
and opened formally by His Majesty the Mikado on 
the 1 4th July. Otsu is situated at the end of Lake 
Biwa, and a commodious harbour has been constructed, 




PLEASURE BOAT ON SUMIDA RIVER, TOKIO. 

and protected by breakwaters, with appliances for load- 
ing the steamers which ply on the lake. An iron bridge 
of eight 5O-feet spans carries the line over the Kamo- 
gawa, near Kioto, and a tunnel, 727 yards in length, 
pierces Osakayama. The locomotives were supplied 
from Glasgow and Manchester. Steel rails were like- 
wise obtained from Great Britain. 

The tunnels which arc a feature of the line had been 
pierced and faced preparatory to the completion of the 
long and costly embankments necessary to carry the rail- 



266 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

way across the low-lying rice-fields. The rivers pre- 
sented some peculiar features, inasmuch as the channels 
by which they reach the sea, are raised far above the level 
of the surrounding country. The problem which arose 
for solution was whether it would be more convenient 
to cross above, or below, these natural aqueducts. Both 
systems were tried, tunnels having been driven beneath 
two of the water-courses, where the height above the 
adjoining fields admitted of this plan being followed 
with success, whilst in other cases embankments were 
constructed to bring the rails up to the level of the 
aqueducts, and iron bridges were built to carry them 
across. Such bridges were sent out in sections from the 
workshops of Great Britain, and put together on the 
spot, the sinking of the piers requiring great care and 
vigilance. 

State Opening of Railways It was fitting that 
the occasion of the completion of so valuable and strik- 
ing a novelty as a line of railway should be marked by 
the public appearance of the monarch whose existence, 
as far as the masses were concerned, had been up to that 
time more a matter of religious belief than of personal 
knowledge. The Tens/ii became a living reality when 
he came down to Yokohama and performed the cere- 
mony of opening to public traffic the first " iron road," 
as it is termed by his people. Two years later he opened 
the Kob6-Osaka-Kioto division, which was possibly, to 
His Majesty's thinking, more startling as an innovation, 
in his old ancestral home of Kioto, than it had been to 




RAILWAYS IN JAPAN. 



COMMUNICATIONS. 269 

the city and port of the North. For it will be remem- 
bered that only six years had elapsed since he had 
dwelt in absolute seclusion in this " Western Capital," 
whilst the Government of his country had been carried 
on by the so-called Tycoon at Yedo. 

Both at Yokohama and at Kobe the opening of the 
railways was distinguished by a ceremonial of surpassing 
interest and brilliancy, ever to be remembered by those 
who were privileged to assist at the function. The 
Empress of Japan was prominent on the occasion of the 
Kobe display, and like the Tenshi, was clad in European 
costume, a departure from established custom which 
surely indicated her willingness to sacrifice even her own 
comfort in the sacred cause of progress. 

The Tokaido Line. The two lines of railway thus 
royally established have since been united by the con- 
struction of the Tokaido railway joining Kioto with 
Yokohama, which at once placed the capital of Tokio in 
communication with the great cities of the West. The 
precise length of this Tokaido line is 376 miles, and it 
has already been extended in a westerly direction as far 
as Hiroshima, some 215 miles. Preparations are being 
made as rapidly as possible to carry it forward to 
Shimonoseki, the gate of the Inland Sea, and Japan's 
outpost towards Korea. The accompanying outline 
chart will afford a tolerably accurate idea of the ex- 
tent to which railway communication has already 
been established within the Mikado's dominions. As 
will be observed, the trunk-line stretching southward 



270 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

from the Capital is not quite continuous to Nagasaki, 
the Treaty Port of Southern Japan, but is within measur- 
able distance of attaining this condition. Before another 
year elapses it is probable that the traveller may leave 
his vessel at Nagasaki, and rejoin her at Yokohama, 
travelling by railway through half the entire length of 
Japan, and having a day or two to spare for sight-seeing 
en route. 

Line** in Central and North Japan* Northward 
of the Capital the completion of the railway to Awomori, 
along the line of the Oshiu-kai-do, a distance of 444 
miles, has brought the island of Yeso, once so remote, 
within a few hours' journey of Tokio, and with it the 
Treaty Port of Hakodate, open to foreign trade since 
1865. Branch lines connect the populous city of Mito 
once a seat of the powerful Tokugawa clan, and Mae- 
bashi, as well as the sacred shrines of Nikko, remark- 
able for their beauty, with the seat of Government in 
Tokio. Another trunk line leads through Maebashi 
and Takasaki to the north-western seaport of Takata. 
Mid-Japan is excellently served by lines thrown out 
from the main system at Kioto and Osaka, towards Nara 
and Sakai, Yokkaichi and Ise", and also to Tsuruga, 
on the west coast. Far to the southward the coal- 
mines of Miike have been brought into direct connec- 
tion with the general railway system by a branch 
which leads to the pit's mouth, an illustration of which 
appears in a subsequent chapter. 

In the map of railways already existing or projected, 



CO MM UN 1C A TJONS. 27 1 

it will be observed that several additions to the system 
are in an advanced stage, and that as soon as active 
operations can be resumed, upon the close of the war 
with China, the mileage of the Japanese railways will 
be very considerably increased. Viewed only in the 
light of twenty-five years' work, the vast amount of 
country already opened up by the " iron roads " cannot 
fail to impress the European reader with a sense of 
the energy which the Government of Japan has thrown 
into this one department of its most extensive opera- 
tions. 

The locomotive engines employed on Japanese rail- 
ways are almost without exception of English manu- 
facture or built upon English models. Two well-known 
Lancashire firms were among the earliest to supply the 
locomotives for the Yokohama and Kobe" sections, and 
the type then sent out seemed to afford such satisfaction 
that it has been regularly adhered to. The gauge of the 
Japanese lines is very narrow, being only 3 feet 6 inches, 
so that when compared with the mighty engines employed 
on the main lines in Great Britain, a Japanese locomotive 
appears altogether insignificant. It suffices admirably, 
however, for the class of work it is called upon at pre- 
sent to perform, though in the somewhat distant future, 
when traffic increases in proportion to the facilities 
afforded for transport of merchandise as well as of pas- 
sengers, it may become a matter of necessity to widen 
the gauge to the standard 4 feet 8}4 inches, and employ 
more capacious vehicles, with locomotives of the power 



272 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and dimensions ordinarily in use in this and other occi- 
dental countries. In their choice of a 3 feet 6 inch gauge 
the Japanese have been influenced by considerations 
which had weight with the engineers of Indian rail- 
ways, but the development of the country is advancing 
at such a phenomenal pace that only a few years hence 
we may expect to find the light rolling stock utterly 
unfitted to economically carry the traffic. Last year's 
statistics prove that, apart from the exceptional demands 
made upon the capabilities of the Japanese railways by 
the war with China, there was a steady increase in the 
ordinary traffic and a corresponding rise in the earnings 
per mile on both the State lines and those which are 
carried on by private enterprise. 

On the Tokaido the railway line has been carried 
parallel to the highway, generally at a distance of some 
miles on the landward side, but here and there glimpses 
are obtained of the rolling billows of the broad Pacific. 
In great part the charm of a journey amid such sylvan 
surroundings as the old coach-road affords must neces- 
sarily be altogether lacking, however, in the hurried day- 
and-night ride in the train, which now replaces the ten 
or twelve days' trip formerly to be enjoyed by travellers 
under the old conditions. For those who have time to 
spare a trip along the Tdkaido must always have many 
attractions, as the geological features to be met with in 
a journey throughout its length are of more than com- 
mon interest. Nothing could be calculated, indeed, to 
afford greater satisfaction to a traveller than falls to the 



COMMUX1CA TIONS. 273 

lot of a pedestrian setting out from the Capital, and bent 
upon acquiring a comprehensive view of the country 
which appears destined to play so important a part in 
the future history of the Asiatic continent 

Steady Development. The railway enterprise 
which has distinguished the past few years is ascribable 
primarily to the efforts of Marquis Ito Hirobumi, the 
present Prime Minister, and Count Okuma, at that time 
Vice-Minister of Finance, who were successful in estab- 
lishing the principles underlying the provision of rail- 
ways as of primary importance to the State. It was 
from the outset proposed to connect Tokio with Kioto, 
with branches to Yokohama and Tsuruga on the west 
coast, but financial reasons dictated the limitation of 
the project at first to the section between Tokio and 
Yokohama. 

Northern Lines. The Tokio and North-Western 
Railway starts from the suburb of Uyeno, close to the 
splendid park, and extends 68^ miles to Mayebashi 
the centre of the silk trade. This was begun in 1882, 
and finished in August, 1884. Several iron bridges cross 
rivers of considerable width. The engines were obtained 
from Glasgow, but all carriages and other rolling stock 
were made in Tokio. The Government guarantees to 
the native company, which owns this line, that its divi- 
dends shall not fall below eight per cent., but as it has 
paid more than that rate of interest to its shareholders, 
the State Treasury has not been called upon in respect 
of its promise. A loop-line in the outskirts of the 

T 



274 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Capital connects the undertaking of the " Japan Rail- 
way Company " with the Government lines to Yoko- 
hama and the south. 

The Nakasendo line is in course of construction, 
and will open up many large towns along its route 
where silk and other trades are vigorously carried 
on. 

The Japan Railway Company owns the line from 
Tokio to Aomori, passing through Utsunomiya, Shira- 
kawa, Sendai, and Morioka, about 40x3 miles. 

The total length of railway now in operation in Japan 
is about 1870 English miles. 

The Diet three years since sanctioned an expenditure 
of eight and a half millions sterling upon railway con- 
struction, to be spread over a period of 12 years. It 
needs but the completion of some 170 miles of line to 
enable a traveller to pass from Tokio to Nagasaki with- 
out change of carriage, if a system can be devised of 
ferrying the entire train across Shimonoseki Straits. 
This is by no means an impossible feat, nor even would 
it be wholly impracticable to bridge the channel at Mo- 
jisaki. 

Telegraphs. It was quite natural that, in the de- 
sire to open up the means of rapid communication with 
the more distant provinces of the Empire, the attention 
of the Japanese Ministry was from the very outset at- 
tracted by the vast capabilities of the electric telegraph. 
They realised immediately that although railways would 
ultimately prove the means whereby the immense latent 




TRLKORAPIIS IN JAPAN. 



COMMUNICATIONS. 277 

resources of the nation would be brought to light, it 
would require the labour of many years to establish 
" iron roads " on a paying scale, and at best the pro- 
gress made could not be sufficiently rapid to appeal 
to the senses of the multitude as part of the new 
machinery of Government. In the telegraph they would 
possess a wonder-working agent of control capable of 
speedy penetration to even the outposts of the Mikado's 
territory, and accordingly, though by no means stint- 
ing the outlay on that valuable nucleus of a railway 
system which was already in process of formation, the 
Government prepared to divert a large proportion of 
its available funds into a channel certain to be im- 
mediately productive of results. With characteristic 
thoroughness, the responsible heads of departments 
forthwith planned an ideal network of telegraphic inter- 
communication which should embrace every city and 
town of importance throughout the Empire, based prin- 
cipally on the number of inhabitants, though other 
considerations were by no means overlooked, and sat 
down to count the cost. In the preparation of this 
general scheme they were aided by the knowledge they 
had been able to acquire of British and Continental 
telegraphic administrations, and though it was pal- 
pably impossible to commence work in every province 
simultaneously without an enormous outlay, it was 
nevertheless practicable to make such a selection of 
districts wherein operations could be advantageously 
begun as to yield a perceptible return for the expen- 



278 -ADVANCE JAPAN. 

diture within the first year. It is a striking testimony 
to the care and forethought displayed in the design, 
that but little deviation has been found necessary in 
the progress of the work, and that the lines as origi- 
nally plotted on the map of Japan have since been 
constructed in all their ramifications, affording every 
prefect and sub-prefect the means of instantaneously 
communicating with the central Government at the 
Capital. It occupied the staff nearly 12 years to fully 
execute the projected works, but in that comparatively 
brief period of time Japan was placed in possession 
of a telegraphic system which, for perfection of organi- 
sation, despatch, and reliability, combined with a low 
tariff, is nowhere excelled on the globe. 

A Relapae Impossible. That these character- 
istics were not secured without the expenditure of 
much diligent application by the technical staff goes 
without saying, and it redounds to the credit of the 
Japanese officials that, contrary to the practice which 
prevails among Asiatic peoples in general, they have 
faithfully adhered in this as in all other branches of 
engineering, to sound principles. It has too often 
happened that the professor's injunctions have been 
disregarded in Eastern countries immediately that the 
student has been free to pursue the bent of his own 
inclination, and we have seen some of the deplorable 
results of this tendency in the deterioration of the 
Chinese navy. With the Japanese the case was en- 
tirely different. The students sought to master not 



CO MM UN 1C A TIONS. 279 

only the technicalities, but the minutest details of their 
professions, and when foreign instruction was with- 
drawn, they loyally strove, not only to maintain the 
standard which their work had attained under super- 
vision, but individually to excel. Thus Japan can 
boast not only of expert operators, whose skill as tele- 
graphists would compare very favourably with those 
of any nation, but in the higher branches of electrical 
knowledge she possesses men whose inventive genius 
has already proved equal to the production of more 
than one serviceable improvement in the apparatus 
employed, and others whose mathematical talent has 
enabled them to shed light on some of the most per- 
plexing of scientific problems. Facts like these suffice 
to dispose of the theory that the Japanese are a people 
prone to content themselves with a mere veneer of 
scientific culture. No one can have come in contact 
with the Mikado's subjects in any part of the world 
without recognising in them the quality which Orien- 
tals are popularly supposed to lack, and which, for 
want of a more expressive term at the moment, may 
be defined as mental ballast Unlike other Asiatic 
peoples, they preserve their equilibrium under all con- 
ditions, are thoroughly practical, persevering, and sin- 
cere. 

For proof of the persistent energy they have brought 
to bear in the prosecution of their designs, it is only 
requisite to turn to the map of the Japanese telegraphs 
which accompanies this chapter. It will be observed 



280 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

that the stations are plentifully distributed over the 
entire group of islands, and submarine cables are to 
be laid to connect even the distant Loo-Choo Islands 
and Formosa with the system of communication which 
centres on Tokio. Not a mile of this telegraphic net- 
work existed a quarter of a century ago, and at the 
outset every ton of the material required had to be 
imported from Great Britain or the Continent. Now 
the whole of it, with scarcely any exception, is manu- 
factured in Japan ; and the Japanese workshops and 
factories are able to supply such material to their 
neighbours. 

Agrarian Riots. To those who may have had any 
experience of the reception accorded to novel methods 
even in our own land, it will not be surprising to know 
that the inhabitants of the country districts of Japan 
were at first violently opposed to the innovations which 
were pressed upon them by the Central Government. 
They did not hold mass meetings to protest against 
such tyranny, as they deemed it, but they set fire to 
anything and everything within their reach that could 
be regarded as State property, regardless of conse- 
quences. The prefects often reasoned with them on 
the folly of their proceedings, and in some instances 
their good counsels prevailed, but in two provinces, 
more particularly, there was bloodshed. In Satsuma 
they would not allow telegraphs to be brought within 
their borders under any conditions, and for certain 
reasons which could be appreciated afterwards, the 




H 

S 
I 



COMMUN1CA TIONS. 283 

Government did not then insist upon compliance. But 
there was no wavering in the general policy of the 
Ministry, as the malcontents discovered in good time, 
and opposition died out when the ringleaders lost their 
heads by the sword of the executioner. In Saga Pre- 
fecture the rioters went so far as to tear down the 
offending wires, and uproot the posts, threatening death 
to all who came to replace them a course of be- 
haviour which brought down upon them the strong 
arm of the law in the shape of a regiment of infantry 
but there was no real danger to the stability of the 
Government fabrics in these ebullitions, up to 1877, 
v.hen a rising of a far more serious character took 
place, and to which further allusion will presently be 
made. 

Telegram* * Japanese. One of the most in- 
teresting problems in connection with the introduction 
of the electric telegraph into Japan, and which at once 
presented itself for solution, was the need of accom- 
modating the signs of the Morse code to the Japanese 
language. The inventor of the telegraph apparatus 
which bears his name, now almost universally em- 
ployed, arranged an admirable series of "dots and 
dashes " in other words, of electrical impulses of short 
or long duration to correspond with an alphabet of 
26 letters. But the Japanese alphabet, so to describe it, 
has nearly double this number of symbols, not counting 
the accents, and Morse's combinations would only go 
one half of the way round, when it was sought to apply 



284 ADVANCE JAPAN, 

his code to telegrams in the vernacular. Inasmuch, 
however, as Morse had not exceeded four elements of 
dots or dashes in his combinations, it was quite feasible, 
by allowing groups of not more than five elements to 
form the additional combinations ; and thus it has come 
about that a Japanese telegraphist has to be familiar 
with two telegraphic languages, for the signal which is 
composed in the Morse code of two long impulses means 
the letter M in the English language, but it means the 
syllable Yo in his own. Needless to say, he is able to 
distinguish, by the signal prefixed to every despatch, 
which class of telegram is reaching him over the wires, 
or he would not know how to interpret the symbols. It 
should be remarked that, in the Japanese style of 
writing, words are not spelt out in letters, but in 
syllables. Ya-ma (a mountain) is not written in four 
characters, as with us, but in two, as indicated by the 
position of the hyphen. The caligraphy of the Japanese 
(for with them penmanship is one of the fine arts) is 
alluded to elsewhere in this volume, and the methods 
they adopt in telegraphing their written communica- 
tions are described here only on account of that 
great simplicity which is a feature of the Japanese 
style, as contrasted with the system in operation in 
China. 

Owing to the Chinese having no syllabary of the kind 
existing in Japan, about ten thousand of the ideographs 
in most common use were catalogued under groups of 
numbers which run from oooi to 9999, and when the 



COMMUNICATIONS. 285 

Chinese telegraphist signals the message lying before 
him, he does so in the numerical equivalents of the 
written characters. By this process every telegram has 
to be translated into the code of figures before it can be 
despatched, and re-translated at the distant station into 
Chinese symbols. It is not difficult to comprehend 
that an error in transmission of even one group of 
figures must render the telegrams more or less un- 
intelligible. 

The possession by the Japanese of a modified Morse 
code, which enables them to signal telegrams in their 
own language, would equally avail them in communi- 
cating by steam whistle between men-of-war or mer- 
chant vessels in their service, should their commanders 
ever have occasion to employ a secret code. But very 
few people, however well versed in the ordinary com- 
binations of Morse's system, would be able to interpret 
messages passing in a purely Japanese code. 

The initial difficulty of accommodating the telegraph 
to the requirements of the native language having been 
surmounted, and a tariff framed upon the number ot 
symbols, instead of upon the number of words, the 
public were invited to make use of the novel means of 
communication. It proved at once to be a good invest- 
ment, for the wires were kept busy almost day and 
night. Section after section was thrown open for the 
transaction of business as fast as the lines could be 
completed. The engineers were urged to push forward 
the works at all hazards. Distant cities began to peti- 



286 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

tion for the extension of the " lightning messenger " in 
their direction. Offers of buildings for offices, and 
timber for telegraph posts, literally poured in, and 
meanwhile the traffic was increasing day by day in a 
fashion which threatened to overwhelm the clerical 
staff. From that time to the present hour the tele- 
graphs of Japan have been of incalculable benefit to 
the nation, commercially and politically, for whilst 
affording every facility to the merchant who makes use 
of the wires in his business, the Government retains 
absolute right to take precedence for its despatches, and 
on occasions of exceptional urgency it has happened 
that the lines have in this way been altogether monopo- 
lised by affairs of State. 

The variety of subjects dealt with in telegrams in 
Japan is as infinite as that which comes under the 
observation of the British Postmaster-General. The 
townsfolk of Japan are now as familiar with the tele- 
graph messenger in uniform and the dempo, in its bag- 
shaped envelope, of which he is the bearer, as are the 
people of the United Kingdom ; and year by year the 
average number of telegrams per head of the population 
is attaining greater proportions. It is at the present 
time eleven and a fraction for every hundred of the in- 
habitants. 

Field Telegraphs. The employment of the tele- 
graph in war has been thoroughly understood by the 
Japanese from the year 1877, when it rendered such 
services to the loyal army in the civil war with Sat- 



COMMUNICATIONS. 287 

suma as contributed in no small degree to the ease 
with which that formidable outbreak was suppressed. 
Prior to that time the advantage conferred by the 
receipt of prompt intelligence had been experienced in 
cases where tumultous gatherings had been dispersed in 
remote districts by the prompt appearance of gen- 
darmes, brought upon the scene by telegraphic sum- 
mons ; but it was in Kiushiu that portable field tele- 
graphs were first brought into operation. The feasibility 
of keeping open communication between an army on 
the march and its base was amply demonstrated on 
that occasion, when the forces commanded by his late 
Royal Highness Arisugawa-no-Miya were constantly in 
touch with the Capital as they pressed forward toward 
Kagoshima. The experience then gained has been of 
immense advantage in the prosecution of the campaign 
in Korea and Manchuria, the perfect synchronism of 
the Japanese commanders' dispositions having been the 
admiration of military men throughout the world. The 
lines are built and the instruments worked by a corps of 
Sappers, as in the British Army, all the apparatus being 
constructed in Japan, from the jointed bamboo supports 
down to the batteries and wire. 



288 




CHAPTER XI. 

LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 

AN I FOLD as are the reforms which 
Japan has in contemplation, they 
can scarcely include the abolition 
of the ancient system of writing, so 
that a short exposition of its origin 
may not be altogether superfluous. 
In as many as 608 symbols 

according to Dr. S. Wells Williams, who has exhaus- 
tively dealt with the subject in his work on the" Middle 
Kingdom " a plain resemblance can be traced between 
the original form and the object represented. These 
were among the first characters invented, and were 
engraved by iron styles on tablets of bamboo long 
before the introduction of pencils, ink, and paper, even 
in China. In this class are the simple symbols for 
" mouth," a hollow square ; and " man," a pair of legs 
with very slender body. A mountain was represented 
by a figure having three peaks, and this is well preserved 
in the modern character San (Chinese, Shan}. A circle 
with a dot in it denoted " the sun." 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 289 

Following this class is one containing 107 " symbols 
indicating thought," which Dr. Williams regards as in- 
dicating some idea easily deducible from their position 
or combination, and pointing out some property or 
relative circumstance belonging to them. A half-visible 
moon, for example, repre- 
sents "evening," and "the i g ^ A 4 1 $ 
sun," with a line drawn be- ES ifr 3 O f iP 
low it, represents " morn- f$ 3r> <L ^ jgj "i" 
ing" the sun above the & *> ? % <L A ^ 

?& ^f L ^ 1 ^ 

horizon. A third and very 1=1 $t iti 1 * fet 6 tt 

numerous class is employed fg ^ 5 tf ^ : tf> 

to portray "combined Jft ot tt *^ 3c w ^ 

ideas," in other words, char- I |t|jj tf ^ f g 

acters made up of two or ty ^k'Z $} * i*- -f* /fi : O 

more symbols to express a ffil Jf 1 - Wf ^ 2T ^B ^? 

single idea. Under this $ jjj | * *! |, *, 

head come the combination ^j g ^f jg ^ yjjj ^ 

of "sun" and "moon" to 5 V W f ft 

indicate "brightness." Two f , ^ ? U 

/HI A At ^ & rf 
trees standing side by side ^. ^> 5^ |Jfc 

denote a copse, whilst three SI> 6 % ^* f& ffi 

combined have palpable re- 3,. , fl K T;i TT 

tt L *' <>' u* U 

fcrence to a forest. A 

mouth in a doonvay is the symbol "to inquire." "For- 
getfulness" is almost pathetically rendered by heart and 
death. A wife is indicated by the combination teaman 
and broom, which is obviously intended to convey a 

clear idea of her household duties. The fourth class 

U 



290 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

is constituted by 372 characters which, by inversion, 
contraction, or alteration of their parts, acquire differ- 
ent meanings. 

The fifth class contains no fewer than 21,810 symbols, 
which are formed of an imitative sign united to one 
which merely imparts its sound to the compound. In 
this category are found nearly all the characters of the 
language. The birds alone comprise 754 symbols, in 
which the sign for the feathered tribes is united to a 
phonogram expressing the particular fowl or species to 
be indicated. Fish, in the same way, constitute a 
division, having no fewer than 525 distinctive sym- 
bols. 

The sixth and last classification includes 598 charac- 
ters, in which the meaning is deduced by a somewhat 
fanciful accommodation. They differ but little from 
those of the second class. 

Chinese grammarians have exercised their ingenuity 
in providing explanations of the origin and etymology 
of the characters, but the aid which their researches 
have given towards understanding the language is 
small, though their writings on the subject find readers 
and students in Japan. 

Dr. Wells Williams considers it probable that the 
total of really different characters in the language 
sanctioned by good usage does not vary greatly from 
25,000, though one commentator placed the number as 
high as 260,899. 

But even the sum of 25,000 characters contains 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 291 

thousands of unusual ones which are seldom met with, 
and which, as is the case with old words in English, 
are not often learned. 

It may be safely said that a good knowledge of ten 
thousand characters will enable one to read any work 
in Chinese and write intelligibly on any subject, while 
probably a good knowledge of four or five thousand is 
sufficient for all common purposes, and two-thirds of 
that number might in fact suffice. 

But it will be possible, nevertheless, for English 
readers to extend their sympathy to the Japanese 
student who is called upon, in these days, not only 
to master English, French, and German, but to assimilate 
4,000 or 5,000 Chinese hieroglyphics in addition to the 
two syllabaries, hirakana and katakana, peculiar to his 
own country. 

In Japanese lexicons, as in those of China, the letters 
are classified under 214 "radicals," each of which 
furnishes a key to a distinct group. All characters 
found under the same radical are placed consecutively, 
according to the number of strokes of the pencil 
necessary to write them. The characters selected for 
the radicals are all common ones, and among the most 
ancient in the language. As an illustration of the 
method of grouping, it may be mentioned that the 
meteorological radicals comprise the symbols for rain, 
wind, fire, water, icicle, vapour, sound, sun, moon, even- 
ing, and time. 

Therefore we should expect to find that the lexicon 

IT 2 



292 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

classes any phenomena connected with rain under the 
head of that radical, and accordingly we observe that 
in that page of a Japanese dictionary are ranged the 
symbols for drizzle, cloud, fog, hail, hoar-frost, and 
snow. 

Japaneae Modifications. Though English is being 
taught in all the schools of Japan, and French and 
German in a large proportion of them, there is no like- 
lihood of any foreign tongue coming into general use 
among the native population. The construction of the 
Japanese language resembles to some extent that of 
Korean and Chinese, the order of words in a sentence 
being very similar in Japanese and Korean, and the 
square Chinese ideograph being common to all three, 
though differently read or pronounced in each. Both 
Korea and Japan have forms of writing peculiar to 
themselves, however, and are in no way dependent upon 
the Chinese symbols to express their thoughts upon 
paper. Moreover when the Japanese use these symbols 
they attach to them their own kana to indicate the case 
or tense, producing a combination which altogether 
puzzles a Chinaman. The example on a previous page 
of the mingled Chinese and Japanese characters is 
culled haphazard from a page of a Japanese journal, 
and it shows how extensively Chinese ideographs are 
employed. 

In order that the feminine Japanese may comprehend 
the full meaning of the Chinese symbol the kana letters 
are added at the side in a few instances, the reason for 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 293 

so doing being the unfamiliarity of the average Japanese 
woman with Chinese symbols, save those that enter into 
the affairs of her daily life. 

The effect is much that which would be produced by 
a large admixture of Latin and Greek into the columns 
of English newspapers, with marginal or parenthetical 
notes, in ordinary Anglo-Saxon, explanatory of the 
classical terms. 

The Japanese hirakana is that form which is here 
employed to connect the square ideographs. There are 
over 200 characters in this hirakana syllabary alone, and 
it may be asked why it is that they do not confine them- 
selves strictly to the employment of this form of writing, 
seeing that it provides ample and more than ample 
means of expressing every sound. Forty-eight symbols, 
with certain accents, would suffice, in fact, to accurately 
represent all the syllables of the language, so that it 
appears, at first sight, to be inconsistent with common 
sense to burden the student with as many as two 
hundred. It cannot be denied that in the complete list 
of hirakana characters there are often four or five signs 
for the same sound. There is a similarity in this, how- 
ever, to the system whereby Old English, Italic, and 
other forms of one and the same letter are perpetuated 
in our own varied founts of type. The real difficulty is 
not in adequately expressing all the Japanese sounds 
by a limited syllabary, but in the absolute necessity of 
maintaining a close acquaintance with ancient and 
contemporary literature, which has for over a thousand 



294 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

years been printed in the Chinese character. Were a 
Japanese to forego the study of Chinese characters 
entirely, he would thereby deprive himself of the oppor- 
tunity of reading the scientific and historical works on 
his own bookshelves. 

Simplified Symbols. Japan is credited with having 
had a few written characters of her own prior to the in- 
troduction of Chinese ideographs; but be that as it may, 
she very early saw the utility of reducing the number 
of symbols in current use to a reasonable number, and 
adopted the modified arrangement for her own purposes 
known as the kana. This term embraces not only the 
hirakana, but a still more simple form of katakana, in 
which foreign words are spelt out with some approxi- 
mation to the actual pronunciation, and telegrams are 
also transmitted. The katakana, hirakana, and square 
Chinese symbols which bear, in Japan, the same sound, 
are here reproduced. 

This table contains but a minute fraction of the mass 
of characters employed in the writings of the Japanese, 
but it may serve to illustrate some of the difficulties 
which beset the path of literature. 

A boy commences to handle the pen at a very early 
age, and can form some of the simpler letters passably 
well by the time he passes out of babyhood on reach- 
ing his fifth birthday. Penmanship is an art, and he 
learns to give a true and elegant shape to his letters 
by tracing from a copy placed beneath a thin sheet of 
writing-paper. The brush is used as in painting, and 



ohi ^. "^ "^ "V 4" ^ fu 7 4^ ^3 ^ -^ ^ 



^ 1 "3 3- tf ^ te t ^ ^ A tt t 

^fe^^t^.- 5 T^^^P^^- 

7 fc i ^ 4^ *fr ^t -S t ^ ^ ** 

/y fr % ^ fa KM- ^ i I. Vl 4 ^ 

^ ch i 5 * <^ Y 11 ^- I $ * * 



mi 

shi 
ye 



na -J- 



1 P n > A 

THE JAPANESE SYLLABARY. 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 



297 



it is sought by practice to acquire that freedom and 
pliability of wrist which imparts to the writing the 
essential characteristics of a " good hand." 

Pens, Ink, and Paper. There are half a dozen 
styles of penmanship, viz., the seal character, used only 
in cutting seals, the engrossing style, for documents, 
the pattern style, in which every aspirant to literary fame 
must write neatly and accurately, the running hand, 




J > 



EARLY EFFORTS. 

which is the common hand, and yet demands a special 
study, the grass hand, which is a free imitation of the 
foregoing, with the difference that it is full of exasperat- 
ing abbreviations in which there is full play for the 
writer's fancy, and the sixth, or printing style, in which 



298 ADVANCE JAP AX. 

the wooden blocks used in the press are cut, for print- 
ing books. 

It is almost needless to say that a foreigner, when he 
attempts to acquire a knowledge at all of these hierogly- 
phics, is content to study one style of penmanship, and 
to make that suffice for all occasions. 

The articles used in the library pencils, ink, paper, 
and inkstone are regarded as the most precious posses- 
sions of the learned. The ink, usually called India ink, 
is made from the soot of burning pine, fir, and other 
substances, mixed with glue or isinglass, and agiceably 
scented. Most of us are familiar with the odour of it, 
having at some time or other made use of it in our own 
country. Pencils should be made of sable bristles, though 
the cheaper sort are often made from cat or rabbit fur. 
The hairs are laid carefully and regularly and brought 
to a tip, the handle being made of the female bamboo. 
Paper for writing is made in Japan from the species of 
mulberry, which likewise furnishes, in its blossom, the 
emblem of the Mikado's private crest, engraved on the 
cover of this volume. The inkstone is a piece of marble 
or other stone, often beautifully carved, on which the 
ink, when to be used, is rubbed with a few drops of 
water. 

The manufacture of the ink dates from the seventh 
century. Printing from blocks followed the discovery 
of a method of taking impressions from engraved stones 
in the tenth century. 

Of late years printing has been done in Japan from 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 299 

founts of type cast in the same manner as in foreign 
countries. The principal difficulty with the Japanese 
" compositor " is to manipulate a " case " which may 
contain several thousand different letters. The feat is 
practically impossible, and so he is assisted by boys 
who search out his symbols as he shouts for them, 
and bring them to him to be set up in column. 

i -.1 a M i -.iniM-iit of Newspapers* To the memory 
of Mr. Kido it is due that the part he took in the estab- 
lishment of newspapers in Japan should be distinctly 
recorded. He it was who originated the SJiimbun Zas- 
s/ii, or Budget of News, the first journal published for 
sale in Tokio. Its first number brought the youthful 
Empress of Japan prominently to the front as a lady 
who had already begun to interest herself in matters 
calculated to benefit her countrywomen, and which have 
ever since had the advantage of her fostering care. She 
first determined to make herself acquainted with silk- 
worm culture, and sent for four women from the silk 
districts to instruct her personally in the art. She has 
throughout evinced the liveliest interest in all projects 
for the encouragement of industry and education among 
her sex. Prior to the S/tiinbun Zass/ti, an attempt had 
been made by the chaplain of the British Consulate at 
Yokohama, the Rev. M. B. Bailey, to start a native 
journal, and it had an ephemeral existence under the 
name of Bankoku S/iimbun, or " News of the World." 
In his prospectus Mr. Bailey announced his intention to 
give the current news of the day, home and foreign, and 



3co 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



to keep his readers well informed on useful and interest- 
ing subjects. No one knows exactly how this promising 
scheme fell through. 

The '* Reliable Daily Xew." The Press of Japan 
is as potent as it is universal in every part of the Japan- 
ese Empire to quote from the work of Mr. John R. 
Black, to whose memory be it recorded that he was 
the first to establish a newspaper in the vernacular. 
Mr. Black died suddenly, and in harness, but his name 
and the memory of his magnificent voice will live whilst 
any of the older generation of settlers in Japan, and 
China too, shall remain. Mr. Black first had a definite 




PERUSING THE MORNING NEWSPAPER. 

idea of starting a paper, to be printed in Japanese char- 
acters, early in 1872, and with the countenance and aid 
of the Government Education Department, a learned 
Japanese gentleman, formerly Vice-Governor of Hako- 
date, undertook to act as editor, the journal being estab- 
lished in that year under the title of Nisshin Shinjisshi 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 301 

the " Reliable Daily News." As the Chinese char- 
acters convey a distinct idea or picture, whilst the 
Japanese kana syllabary conveys words merely, and it 
becomes necessary to read a long way before the par- 
ticular meaning to be attached to a given word can be 
determined, it was necessary to have founts of Chinese 
ideographs. Mr. Black actually began with 1,200 
symbols, but his workmen went on cutting characters 
in boxwood until the total reached 12,000, and still 
did not suffice. Blank blocks, type size, were kept in 
stock, and when a strange symbol, came to light in the 
manuscript which was being " set up," the workman was 
put on to engrave the required hieroglyph there and 
then ! After using wooden type for months, Mr. Black 
discovered a type-founder, who undertook to furnish 
him with good metal type, and as a quaint incident he 
relates that he was accustomed to send to the foundry 
whenever new letters or symbols happened to be wanted, 
and buy them one, two, or more at a time, at a half- 
penny each. 

The contents of the Nisshin Shinjisski were very 
much those of an English journal, and it may be said 
to have formed the model for the great dailies of to- 
day, as they are published in the Japanese Capital. 
There were leading articles, foreign intelligence, items 
of local news, shipping lists, prices-current, and adver- 
tisements. The gratifying result of a few lines com- 
mendatory of the police in one of Mr. Black's earlier 
issues was that a number of police sergeants waited 



302 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

upon him at his offices personally to convey their 
thanks. The idea of comment upon the acts of public 
servants was altogether new at that time. Not many 
years afterwards the habit of indulging in comment 
took such free and easy shape in native newspapers 
in general, that it was not uncommon for 15 or 20 per 
cent, of the Japanese editors to be languishing in gaol 
at one time. Some young samurai, who had barely 
relinquished the habit of wearing two swords in their 
girdles, were chosen to act as canvassers for subscribers 
and advertisements. The idea of a truculent young 
warrior calling round for orders upon merchants and 
manufacturers is apt to strike one nowadays as not a 
little grotesque, but in 1872 the whole business was 
novel to the people of Japan. 

How vastly things have changed will best be com- 
prehended when it is explained that from that first 
journal, the Nissliin SJiinjissJii, have sprung no fewer 
than 2 1 daily papers in Tokio alone, whilst the actual 
number of newspapers published in the vernacular 
throughout Japan now amounts to 635, besides 124 
weeklies, and numerous monthlies. For the first two 
years, however, although at least 50 papers made their 
appearance in the Empire, none of them ventured, save 
the Nisshin S/iinjtssht, to publish leading articles or 
comments on passing events. That came in good time, 
as we have seen. 

The Nichi Nichi Shimbun claims to be the oldest 
newspaper in Japan, and it was actually in existence, as 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 303 

was also the Mai Nichi Shimbun, prior to the date on 
which Mr. Black's friends brought out the NissJiin 
Shinjisshi, but the older organs had no leading articles 
or comments on news, and could scarcely accord with 
our European idea of a readable journal. They were 
advertisement sheets relieved by a certain amount of 
tittle-tattle. The Nissliiu was the first exponent of 
leading opinion, and though its fairly outspoken essays 
were a trifle too progressive in tone for the times in 
which it lived, and none of its rivals ventured to take so 
independent a stand, the custom of publishing leading 
articles was gradually formed, and no one can suggest 
that at the present day the various party organs are not 
frank even to excess. 

Nichi Nichi Shimbun may be interpreted " Day by 
Day News," and Mai Nichi Shimbun as " Every Day's 
News." The ' Daily News " of Japan is the//;'/ Shimpo, 
an independent journal for which Mr. Fukuzawa, a man 
celebrated throughout Japan for his scholarly attain- 
ments and the originality of his opinions, is responsible. 
Mr. Fukuzawa has done excellent service to his country 
as a translator of the standard European and American 
works on political economy, geography, history, and 
science in general, and to his great learning he adds 
boundless eloquence. But fortunately he is not an 
enthusiast in practical politics, choosing to identify him- 
self with noble but totally unworkable schemes of reform, 
rather than to attack the problems of the hour. The 
"Daily Chronicle " of Japan is the Hochi Shimbun, the 



3 04 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

organ of Count Okuma, who, though Minister of Finance 
in the Cabinet of the first decade of the Meiji era, does 
not now hold a portfolio. He is the acknowledged 
leader of the Progressionists, a party which aims at 
even more rapid progress than Japan is already accus- 
tomed to. 

Other Journals of Tokio. The Clioya Shimbun 
is both official and popular, as its title implies, whilst 
there is a " Daily Telegraph " in Japan under the 
designation of Tokio Deinpo. Public opinion was repre- 
sented by the Koron Shimpo, an organ which was sup- 
posed to reflect the views of Counts Itagaki and Goto 
Shojiro. Mr. Yano, the editor of the Hoclii Shimbun is 
a gentleman well known to Europeans for the past 
twenty-five years as an active politician. The Jiyu 
Shimbun is the Radical organ, but the Nichi Nichi 
Sliimbun> the Independent supporter of the Cabinet, the 
Jiji Shimpo, and the Niroku Shimpo, should be classed 
as non-party journals. 

Though the earlier journals were not disposed to com- 
mit themselves to the expression of opinion in leading 
articles, they were willing to publish letters from corres- 
pondents in reply to the leaders in the NissJiin Shinjisshi. 
Many of these furnished proof of the abundance of 
thoughtful writers whose abilities only needed an outlet, 
men who had been unavoidably shelved for the time 
being by the centralising policy of the Government. No 
State could hope to find employment for the hosts of 
capable men who had served the daimios in various 




'i.E OK JAPANESE COVER TO HISTORICAL BOOK. 



LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. 307 

literary capacities, but who were necessarily left without 
occupation when the numerous provincial administra- 
tions became fused in one organisation at headquarters. 
From the year 1875 the Government found it necessary 
to put some restraint upon the Press, and this is not 
astonishing when we know that one of the new editors 
thought it no indiscretion to publish the text of a 
memorial which he had in some way obtained access to, 
demanding the disgrace and decapitation of the Prime 
Minister. Still the Press has grown, and has found em- 
ployment for samurai of all ranks. The compositors 
were all originally of two-sworded rank, and from the 
humblest to the highest the staff was composed of 
Japanese gentlemen. The manager of the Ntsshin, for 
example, had been treasurer of a southern clan, and 
necessarily a person of responsibility in his former 
daimio's household. The chief reporter received a high 
salary to employ an efficient staff, of whom many had 
been, under the old regime, his armed retainers. 

The PrlMoii Editor. Just as these men were bold 
in war, they became bold with printer's ink, and continu- 
ally ran the risk of imprisonment for their unguarded 
utterances. But as soon as one editor was incarcerated, 
another took his place, and pursued the same tactics. 
There was a general belief that the real editor-in-chief 
kept a staff of subordinate editors who contracted to 
take their turns in gaol, whilst he, in reality, administered 
the affairs of the journal from the shelter of the screen 
thus afforded him. In more recent years the conductors 

X 2 



303 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



of newspapers have found it expedient not to brave the 
law to the same extent, though the journalism of the 
hour is still characterised by considerable freedom of 
expression. 




309 




CHAPTER XII. 
MINES AND MINERALS. 

A PAN was not credited with the possession of 
much mineral wealth until very recently, and 
even now the output from her mines is com- 
paratively small, excepting in the item of 
coal. But gold and silver are both found, in 
paying quantities, at Sado and Ikuno ; lead is obtained 
in the north ; and in other parts of the country de- 
posits of copper and tin, iron and quicksilver, are all 
worked with advantage, though on a limited scale. 

Coal stands prominently forth as Japan's most valu- 
able underground property, having been known to the 
people of Miike, in the island of Kiushiu, as far back, it 
is asserted, as the year 1468. At least 30 years ago coa 
mining was being systematically pursued in the districts 
of Hizen, Higo, and Chikugo, and the coal so obtained 
was, among other uses, employed in the production of 
salt, at brine-boiling depdts situated on the shores of the 
Shimabara Gulf, an almost landlocked inlet 50 miles 
long, in the extreme south of Japan. At that time 
the coal was obtained from the outcrop on the side of 
the hill, and even up to 1876 only the most primitive 



3io ADVANCE JAPAN. 

methods and appliances were resorted to. The practice 
was to follow the seam inwards from the visible outcrop 
until the flow of water rendered farther progress in the 
galleries impracticable. Pumping was done by the tread- 
wheel, of ancient pattern, which is still employed in 
agriculture for the purposes of irrigation, and this ap- 
pliance proved totally inadequate to the duty of keeping 
the workings dry enough to increase the output in a 
material degree. It seems to have been partly with 
the object of finding employment for convicts that the 
Japanese Government first embarked in this enterprise, 
which, up to that period, had been prosecuted at the 
risk of private speculators ; but when once the demand 
for Miike coal became brisk, the Ministry were not slow 
to turn the circumstance to account. It was thought fit, 
however, to transfer the management of the mine to the 
firm of Mitsui & Company, the Rothschilds of Japan, 
who promptly established the Mitsui Bussan Kaisha, a 
trading company which has coaling stations at the pre- 
sent time not only in its own land, but as far afield as 
China, the Straits Settlements, Burmah, and the Philip- 
pine Islands, with branch establishments in Shanghai, 
Tientsin, Hong Kong, Singapore, Bombay, and London. 
It was demonstrated by trial on board ship that the 
Miike coal possessed excellent qualities for steam pro- 
duction, being highly bituminous, with but a small per- 
centage of ash, and it rapidly grew into favour with the 
engineers of coasting vessels. The output in 1876 was 
only 300 tons per diem, one-half of which was sold to the 



MINES AND MINERALS. 313 

steamers, and the remainder, being small stuff, was used 
in the salt works. At the present time the quantity 
delivered is upwards of 2,000 tons per day, the annual 
production being close upon three-quarters of a million 
tons. In 1888 Mitsui & Company bought the entire 
property from the Government for 4,500,000 dollars, in- 
cluding machinery of the newest type, on which, together 
with roads constructed for horse traction, a million dollars 
had been expended. 

The Mitsui firm have introduced locomotive engines 
in lieu of horses for hauling the coal on the surface, and 
branch railways have been constructed by which the pro- 
duct of the mines is now conveyed to a port some 50 
miles distant, to which steamships can at all times have 
access, for shipment to depots or sale to vessels on the 
spot. Stocks of coal are always kept at this port 
near Kumamoto, called Misumi, for disposal to steamers 
which may call in to obtain it ; and the Japanese Govern- 
ment has had most elaborate surveys made, and charts 
published, showing the passage to Misumi from the 
Yellow Sea. The area of the Miike Coal Field is 3,758 
acres, containing over 85 millions of tons of coal, which 
is proved to be equal in quality to the best Australian, 
and excelled only by the Welsh coal shipped from 
Cardiff. 

Three shafts have been sunk at different points in the 
1 8 square miles which constitute the Miike field, and 
another mine is being worked in the old-fashioned way, 
with an incline and hauling-engine on the surface. This 



314 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

is at the site of the ancient workings, where until quite 
recently the coal was brought up in baskets carried on 
men's shoulders. Coal was struck in the Nanaura shaft 
at a depth of 240 feet, and it is the principal and most 
productive mine. A severe earthquake in July, 1889, 
did much damage to the Kachidachi shaft, occasioning 
an influx of water which it required two of Hathorn 
Davey & Company's pumps, raising 6,000 gallons of 
water per minute, to cope with. Several seams of coal 
occur in the Miike field, but the first, averaging eight 
feet in thickness of pure solid coal, free of any inter- 
stratified bands of shale, and the second, with a thick- 
ness of six feet, are the only seams capable of being 
economically worked. The first is often more than 
20 feet in its thickest portions, and the mines in this 
seam are extraordinarily free from explosive gases, so 
that naked lights are invariably used with impunity. 

At Nanaura the underground workings cover an area 
of nearly 500 acres, the coal mined being loaded into 
tubs which are drawn along the tramway by ponies to 
the engine incline, and thence hauled up to the foot of 
the shaft by the engine. Fifty Japanese ponies are 
engaged continually in drawing the coal underground. 
Ventilation is perfectly secured by a fan discharging 
100,000 cubic feet of air per minute. Drainage is the 
most important operation at this mine, as the whole of 
the water from it and its neighbours is pumped up at 
this point, involving the constant use of 21 large boilers 
on the surface, 20 of Tangye's special pumps being at 



MINES AND MINERALS. 315 

work. The absence of any shale in the strata over- 
lying the coal-seams makes it easy for water to percolate 
through the sandstone, which is more or less coarse, 
porous, and fissured, so that the mines are very wet. 
Various improvements have been made by the engi- 
neer in charge, whose mining experience was chiefly 
gained in the United States, but who has likewise visited 
the principal coal-mining centres of Europe. The loco- 
motives have been imported from England and America, 
but the waggons and trucks are all made on the premises. 
Not far away there is a foundry where pumps are cast, 
and a machine-shop for turning out ordinary mining 
machinery, and executing repairs. The stone used for 
building is quarried close at hand, and bricks are 
made on the property. A town of 20,000 inhabitants 
has sprung up, where a few years since there was only 
a small fishing village. A large cotton-spinning mill, 
with over 10,000 spindles, has been established at the 
same place. Fully 10,000 men are directly or indirectly 
employed by the Mitsui Company at the mines or 
docks. 

The bulk of the mining labour is performed by the 
convicts immured in the prison close to the Nanaura 
shaft. Only those medically certified as fit are sent 
down the pit, in day and night shifts, and they like 
the labour, as it gives them opportunity of earning a 
ticket-of-leave, or, under some conditions, even a free 
pardon, much more speedily than any other form of 
labour to which they could be set. A certain task for 



316 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the day is allotted to each one, and if this is accom- 
plished the Government takes seven-tenths of the value 
of such work and sets aside three-tenths for the worker. 
For all that is done over and above the allotted task, 
the Government takes only three-tenths, and accords 
seven-tenths to the labourer. The coal is subjected 
to all the refinements of systematic sieving, as in the 
most advanced British collieries. 

With that determination which characterises the acts 
of the Japanese authorities to do nothing by halves, the 
Lighthouse Department of the Public Works Service (the 
extent of which system is shown in the map here given) 
have undertaken to provide three lighthouses in suitable 
positions in the channel which leads from Misumi to 
the open sea, so that the navigation of the approach 
may be easy at all times. Owing to the shallowness 
of the water on the Higo coast, the prefect is endeavour- 
ing to make Misumi a regular port of shipment for the 
neighbouring province, and a fine esplanade half a mile 
long has been laid out, the town being free from all 
taxation, pro fern., as an inducement to merchants to 
settle there. The exceptionally fine climate of this part 
of the country, combined with its magnificent scenery, 
would render Misumi an attractive residence under any 
circumstances, and when to these advantages are added 
the proximity of large stores of excellent coal, for use 
in cotton spinning and other manufactures, it is within 
the bounds of possibility that when the new commercial 
treaty with Japan comes into operation, and foreigners 




LIGHTHOUSES AND 



MINES AND MINERALS. 319 

can be accorded unlimited freedom in their choice of a 
place of residence and trade, not a few enterprising mer- 
chants may find it profitable to establish themselves 
at this southern port. The attention of business men 
will early be directed to many such places as Misumi, 
where the prospects of capitalists are undeniably good, 
in view of that general opening to unrestricted mercan- 
tile intercourse so soon to be inaugurated. The first in 
the field will have the finest opportunities of reaping the 
harvest, and with abundance of water-power through- 
out the Mikado's dominions, in addition to coal-mines, 
those who seek a new outlet for their energy ought to 
find it, very soon, in pleasant Japan. 

Gold and Silver. Gold has been worked for the 
last 12 centuries in the provinces of the north, and 
the island of Sado, off the north-west coast, bears a 
wide reputation for the extent of its auriferous deposits. 
More would be thought of the Japanese gold-mines if 
they were more easily to be worked, and more con- 
venient of access, for it has been proved by samples 
shown at various exhibitions since 1874 that the metal 
unquestionably exists in certain quantities. Whether 
it is to be found in paying quantities, however, which 
would warrant the importation of machinery for carry- 
ing out operations on an extensive scale, is a question 
which must be left to the Mineralogical Department to 
answer, for the Government alone possesses the requisite 
data. The Portuguese, and in their turn the Dutchmen, 
found the export of bullion from Nagasaki very profit- 



320 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

able. It is computed that the Portuguese shipped the 
metal to Europe during the 89 years of their stay, in 
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, at the aver- 
age rate of two-thirds of a million sterling per annum. 
Altogether the gold despatched by foreign merchants 
during those two centuries was not less than a hundred 
millions sterling. No trifling amount was sent away from 
Yokohama in the early days of the European settlement 
of that port, the relative value of gold to silver at that 
time being as six to one only. The Government soon 
discovered the drain of the precious metal, however, 
and rectified the standard, gold coinage having of late 
years been minted exclusively at Osaka, and the ordi- 
narily-accepted values adhered to. Auriferous quartz 
and gravel have been met with in the southern regions 
as well as in the north, notably in Satsuma and Osumi. 
Silver ore is worked on a scale of considerable im- 
portance at Ikuno, and also in the provinces of Joshiu, 
Sesshiu, and Sekishiu. It was first found in the island 
of Tsushima, which lies midway between Japan and 
Korea, and from the specimens then brought to the 
capital, silver was produced in the year A.D. 674. Three 
or four hundred years ago the metal was obtained in 
much greater quantities than it has been within living 
memory, but the mines still form a very important 
source of the national wealth. Mixed with lead, it is 
met with to a large extent in the provinces of Echizen, 
Echigo, and Rikuchiu in the north, Higo and Hiuga in 
the south. 



MINES AND MINERALS. 



321 



Iron and Steel. Iron is a mineral to which the 
Japanese may reasonably look for an increase of pros- 
perity when the country can be thoroughly developed 
by railway enterprise. There are deposits of magnetic 
iron ore, forming the basis of an important industry, at 
many places adjacent to the route of the Tokaido rail- 
way, more especially in the regions of Totomi, Suruga, 




KUMAMOTO CASTLE. 

and Kai. Farther to the westward the mines of Bingo, 
Bizen, Bichiu,Tajima, and Idzumo are all within reason- 
able distance of the Sanyodo railway, and branch lines 
tapping these mineral districts will certainly be in course 
of construction before long. For how many centuries 
the people of Japan have worked their iron mines is not 



322 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

accurately known, but loadstone was certainly discovered 
by the inhabitants of Goshiu, in the north, at a period 
contemporaneous with the reign of our Saxon kings. 
Undoubtedly the iron mines have been regularly worked 
in various portions of the Mikado's Empire since the 
tenth century, and possibly from an earlier date. Iron 
utensils and ornaments of great antiquity are almost 
immoderately prized by householders of the old school, 
and its employment in armour was universal throughout 
the middle ages, some of the handiwork in this connec- 
tion, of the artificers in iron of that period, vying with 
anything of its kind extant. 

From the date of our earliest acquaintance with Japan 
the quality of the steel employed for sword-blades has 
excited universal admiration. To possess a weapon which 
came from the hand of a celebrated cutler of Osafune 
in Harima, or from any of the old Bizen or Kishiu 
makers, was the ambition of every samurai. If we are 
to place any reliance upon the early legendary history 
of the Empire, we may take it that swords were forged 
in Japan prior to the Christian era. The art is, at all 
events, of great antiquity, and amid all the changes of 
the last twenty years the Japanese soldier still clings 
to the sword of his ancestors, though he has had a 
modern curved handle fitted to the blade that he may 
wield it with one hand. For a few years subsequent to 
the promulgation of the edict against the general wear- 
ing of swords, weapons of great value were often to be 
bought of marine store dealers in the interior for a mere 



MINES AND .MINERALS. 323 

song, but the military spirit of the people has become 
intensified rather than diminished by contact with the 
civilisation of the West, and swords of repute are now 
valued at almost as high figures as they were in olden 
days. It has been stated that an Osafune weapon will 
cut through an ordinary European blade as easily as 
the latter would slice a carrot. 

Copper. Beyond question, the most serviceable of 
minerals to Japan is the copper which she possesses 
in great abundance. Copper coin has been in use for 
twelve hundred years, and the acquisition of this metal 
formed the principal inducement to the settlers at Des- 
hima to submit to the restraints and humiliations of 
their secluded life for two centuries and a half. How 
great the export was during that time can be measured 
with some approach to accuracy, and, in placing it at 
not less than 2,600 tons per annum, the calculation may 
not be far from the mark. 

Copper is found in all parts of the country, and 
from the earliest days of its introduction to the arts, 
somewhere about the year 700 A.D., in Suwo, on the 
shores of the Inland Sea, this metal has largely entered 
into the requirements of the daily life of Japan. It 
is used for household utensils of all kinds, for orna- 
ments, for the furniture of altars and temples, for 
bronzes, mirrors, and for many other purposes which 
it would be vain to seek to particularise. Japanese 
copper is the purest of its kind, as determined by tests 
applied to it when experts were seeking the highest 

Y 2 



324 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



quality of this metal to form wire for submarine tele- 
graph cables. Its standard was then placed as high 
as 98 per cent, of pure metal a standard which had 
previously been thought to be unattainable. 

Bronze guns were cast in Japan subsequent to the 
year 1600 A.D., which occasionally are still to be met 
with in museums, but hundreds were broken up for 
the sake of the metal, just as were the ancient bells of 
Buddhist temples, when their owners fell into poverty 
some 15 or 20 years back. 




325 




CHAPTER XIII. 

ARMAMENTS. 

HE defences of the Empire have been, 
for the last quarter of a century, 
established on a conscription basis, 
by which all males of the age of 20 
years are liable to serve in the 
Standing Army for seven years, 
three of which are spent in active 
service, and four in the reserve. 
After this seven years' period, they have to be classified 
under the equivalent of the German landwehr for another 
five years, and every male between the ages of 17 and 
40 years who is not in the line, the reserve, or the 
landwehr, must belong to the landsturm, and is called 
up in cases of national emergency for service. 

Military Organisation. Nominally, the six divi- 
sions of the Army, irrespective of the Imperial Guard, 
comprise 12 brigades, or 24 regiments, of infantry, 8 
regiments of artillery, 6 squadrons of cavalry, 6 bat- 
talions of engineers, and 6 squadrons military train. 
The militia of Yeso, reserves, and landwehr, all in- 
cluded, brought the total strength, on a peace foot- 



326 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

ing, to 4,358 officers, and 265,390 men. So far it has 
not been necessary to call out the landsturm. 

The increase in the Japanese Army is well shown by 
the figures for 1873 an< ^ the present time. Twenty-two 
years ago the organisation was as follows : 

Peace-footing. War-footing. Household. 

Infantry 26,880 40,320 3,200 

Cavalry 360 450 150 

Artillery 2,160 2,700 300 

Engineers 1,200 i,5o 150 

Military Train ... 360 480 80 

Marine Artillery ... 720 900 

31,680 46,350 3,880 

It cannot be denied that the officers of the French 
Military Mission succeeded in producing a fine, soldier- 
like body of men as the nucleus of the Mikado's Army, 
and the Japanese officers, being thoroughly imbued 
with martial ardour, have ably continued the good 
work. Perhaps the finest corps, in the earlier days of 
Japanese modern military history, was that of the 
marines, for whose training Lieutenant Hawes, R.M., 
was responsible. Captain James, another Englishman, 
had a large share in bringing the Japanese Navy to the 
high standard of discipline and efficiency which it has 
throughout preserved. 

The Army possesses a Staff College, Military College, 
Cadet College, Military School, Gunnery School, a 
school for non-commissioned officers, &c., with a total 
of over 2,000 students. 

Japan's Rifle. It is to be observed that all the 



ARMAMENTS. 329 

fire-arms, ordnance, and ammunition used in the Army 
of Japan are manufactured in the country, at the ar- 
senals of Osaka and Koishikawa, Tokio. The Murata 
rifle, invented by General Murata, chief of the Ord- 
nance Department, is exclusively employed by the 
Japanese forces, and is one of the most efficient 
weapons extant. Its calibre is 0*315, and it carries 
a bullet weighing 235 grains. 

Tlie Xnvy. The Japanese Naval Department is 
administered from Tokio, and the Minister of Marine 
ranks as one of the Imperial Cabinet. The coast has 
been divided into five maritime districts, the head- 
quarters of which are at Yokosuka, in the Bay of Yedo, 
near Yokohama ; Kur6, in the Inland Sea, near Hiro- 
shima ; Sasebo, on the coast of Kiushiu ; and in two 
other places yet to be established, viz., Maidzuru and 
Mororan (Yeso). 

The personnel of the Japanese Navy comprises vice- 
admirals, 5 ; rear-admirals, 3 ; captains, 35; commanders, 
56; with 573 lieutenants and midshipmen, 172 engineers 
and technical officers (naval architect, hydrograph, and 
ordnance), 123 medical officers and apothecaries, 2,097 
accountant, warrant, and petty officers, and 10,932 sea- 
men and firemen ; total 13,987. It will be remembered 
that this entire force has been trained in accordance 
with the traditions of the British Navy. The naval 
reserve numbers 2,555. 

Japan boasts the possession of a Navy which, when 
the ships now building in England can be delivered 



330 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



viz., two first-class line-of-battle ships, 12,000 tons each, 
will include also 4 armoured cruisers, 9 second-class 
cruisers, 19 third-class cruisers, with a flotilla of I first- 
class, 24 second-class, and 16 third-class torpedo-boats. 
Tfce Fleet. The principal ships are as follows : 







Launched 
in 


Tonnage. 


I.H.P. 


Guns. 


Speed in 
ROOtS. 


BATTLESHIPS. 












Building} H.M.S. Re- 





12,446 


13,687 


38 


i8i 


3 nown type. 





12,140 


14,194 


38 


18] 


CRUISERS. 












Fuso ~\ 




1877 


3,787 


3,500 


II 


13 


H*f armoured. 


1879 
1879 


2,284 
2,28 4 


2,034 
2,227 


9 
9 


12 
12 


Chiyoda / 




1889 


2,440 


5,600 


24 


19 


Naniwa 




1885 


3,75 


7,650 


10 


19 


Takachiho 




1885 


3,750 


7,650 


10 


19 


Itsukushima 
Matsushima 
Hashidate 


deck- 
protected. 


1890 
1891 
1891 


4,277 
4,277 
4,277 


5,400 
5,400 
5,400 


to to 

cc co oo 


16 
16 
16 


Akitsushima 




1892 


4,150 


8,400 


12 


19 


Yoshino 




1892 


4,150 


15,000 


34 


22| 


Tsukushi 


.. 1882 


,350 


2,900 


6 


17" 


Kaimon ... 


.. 1882 


,460 


,250 


7 


12 


Tenrio ... 


..; 1883 


,580 


,165 


7 


12 


Takao . . . 


.. 1885 


,760 


2,300 


5 


15 


Yamato ... 


..' 1885 


,680 


,600 


7 


13 


Katsuragi 


.. 1885 


,680 


,600 


7 


13 


Musashi ... 


.. 1886 


,680 


,600 


7 


13 


Yayeyama 


.. 1889 


,800 


5,400 


3 


20 


New 


..'building 


2,700 


8,500 


20 


20 


,, ... 


I 


2,800 


8,500 


2O 


I9| 


,, ... 





i, 800 


6,130 


8 


20 



The Itsukuskima, MatsusJiima (built at La Seyne), and 
HasJiidate (built at Yokosuka) are sister ships, and are 
coast-defence protected cruisers of a special class. They 



ARMAMENTS. 



333 



are 295 feet long, with $o}4 feet in beam. Each carries 
a Canet gun of 12^ inches, and has a powerful arma- 
ment of quick-firing guns. The protection is a deck of 
2-inch steel. 

The Akitsushima, also built at Yokosuka, is a very 
similar ship to these three, but has three knots an hour 
higher speed. 

The steel cruiser Yoshino is the pride of the Japanese 




THE CRUISER "TAK.ACHIHO. 

Navy in point of speed. She is 350 feet long, beam 
46^ feet, with double bottom. For armament she has 
4 6-inch guns one on poop, one on forecastle, 270 
range of fire with each, and the other two sponsoned 
out on either bow 8 guns of 47 inches, 22 3-poundcrs, 
and 5 torpedo-tubes. 

The battleships building in England arc to have a 



334 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



length of 270 feet ; beam, 73 feet ; draught, 26 feet ; 
armour, 16 to 18 inches; armament, 4 12-inch guns, 
coupled in barbettes fore and aft, and 10 6-inch guns, 

with 14 3-pounder and 10 
2 ^-pounder quick-firers, 
and 6 torpedo-tubes. 

To this formidable fleet 
must now be added the 
ships captured from the 
Chinese, which are being 
raised at Wei-hai-Wei, or 
have already come into 
the possession of the vic- 
tors, and are being used 
for coast defence in Japan. 
The Chinese Navy 
proved itself, indeed, to 
be far from effective, and 
owing to some extent to 
the direction of the Tsun- 

gli Yamen at Peking, it had no chance to distinguish 
itself, but was compelled to remain in home waters. 
Its seamen were demoralised because their officers 
were often corrupt and always incompetent ; its divi- 
sion into provincial squadrons was a constant bar to 
combined action. The jealousy of its native officials 
altogether neutralised the good work done by Captain 
Lang in raising it to a condition of comparative efficiency 
during the period of his service under the dragon flag. 




CAPTAIN OF " MATSUSHIMA." 



ARMAMENTS. 335 

Englishmen have a right to pride themselves upon 
their early connection with the Navy of Japan, for, in 
1600, Will Adams, a native of Gillingham, in Kent, 
landed near Nagasaki, and remained a not altogether 
unwilling prisoner at the Court of the Shogun lyeyasu 
until his death, which took place in 1620. It was by 
Will Adams' good offices with the Shogun that the 
foundations of English trade were laid, and he was our 
first diplomatic agent at the Court of Japan. The 
Shogun highly valued Will's services, and employed 
him as Chief Constructor of the Navy. His tomb is to 
be found close to the Yokosuka arsenal and dockyard, 
and the Yokosuka railway station is said to cover the 
site of this first English visitor's house. 




336 




CHAPTER XIV. 

WAR WITH CHINA. 

APAN TAKES ACTION. The 

main incidents of the conflict which 
has just been brought to a close in 
China are so well remembered that 
only a brief recapitulation of the 
more striking features, in their re- 
lation to the ultimate status of 
Japan as a nation, may suffice to 
indicate the substantial character of 
her progress in the art of warfare. 

As already shown, this was the first opportunity afforded 
to Japan of proving that she had really strengthened 
her position in the East by adopting Western methods 
and appliances. The Satsuma troubles attracted so 
little attention outside the limits of the Empire, that 
only those who had occasion to follow the course of the 
campaign attentively were conscious of the growing 
power then exhibited by Prince Arisugawa's battalions. 
Though the civil war which raged in Kiushiu was re- 
markable for the great personal bravery displayed by 



WAR WITH CHINA. 



337 



individual combatants on both sides, the organisation 
of the Imperial Army was but on its trial, and no one 
could accurately estimate the inherent capabilities of 
the newly-established fighting machine until it had 
proved its efficiency in actual operations in the field. 
Seventeen years passed by, 
during which there was 
leisure for thorough exami- 
nation of the machine in all 
its parts, and wherever a 
weakness could be dis- 
covered, it was remedied. 
Thus, when the condition 
of the adjoining peninsular 
kingdom had reached the 
verge of anarchy, and grave 
apprehensions regarding the 
safety of the Japanese sett- 
lers in the ports open to trade had been engendered 
by the corruption and weakness of the King's Govern- 
ment, Japan not only felt herself called upon to in- 
tervene, but strong enough to insist upon the adoption 
of such reforms as would ensure a greater degree of 
security for her subjects. In consonance with the ex- 
isting Treaty with the Government of China, how- 
ever, Japan first of all invited the Middle Kingdom's 
co-operation in a scheme well calculated, from ex- 
perience, to improve the state of affairs in Korea, should 
the King be willing to undertake measures for its ful- 

z 




GKNERAI, KAWAKAMI 
(Japan's Strategist). 



338 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

filment. China had bound herself to act thus jointly 
with Japan, and not to send troops into Korea without 
notifying the Mikado's Government. It became known, 
however, that through the machinations of the Chinese 
Resident at the Court of Seoul, China was fitting out a 
contingent of men and vessels at Tientsin, which could 
only be intended for service in Korea, independently 
of Japan. The Government of Peking had practically 
ignored the suggestion put forward for combined effort, 
and this forced the Mikado's Government to take steps 
to protect its own interests. Japan prepared for an 
expedition herself, and at the same time notified the 
Chinese Government that the proposal for joint inter- 
ference having failed to find favour at Peking, thence- 
forward Japan would not stand upon ceremony, but 
would be driven to take her own course in affairs which 
vitally concerned her own people. At the same time 
Japan warned China that any independent interference 
by the Tsungli Yamen, after that time, could only be re- 
garded as unfriendly. In reality Japan was conscious of 
a growing disposition on the part of China to exercise 
an influence at Seoul utterly antagonistic to the views 
of the Ministry at Tokio, and it was felt that unless 
Japan at once asserted herself, Korea would drift into 
the state of semi-dependence on China, and semi-bar- 
barism, to rescue her from which, as a near neighbour, 
had been Japan's principal object for a decade or two. 
Notwithstanding the notification from Tokio, the Chinese 
persevered with their plan of sending troops to Korea, 



WAR WITH CHINA. 339 

and among other ships engaged as transports was one 
known as the Kozv-shing, which had been chartered by 
the Viceroy of Pechili. On the morning that this vessel 
approached the Korean coast there had already been an 
outbreak of hostilities, three hours before, in which a 
Chinese man-of-war had fired a torpedo at the Japanese 
warship Naniwa Kan, and subsequently had made good 
her escape seaward. The YosJiino had likewise been 
engaged with the Chinese, for, in fact, the Tsi- Yuen, 
2,320 tons, aided by other Chinese vessels, had fought 
the Yoshino, in the course of which a small Chinese 
cruiser, the Kivang- Yt, had been driven ashore and 
destroyed. 

The attempt to sink the Japanese ship had placed 
it beyond question that China and Japan were at 
war, apart from the explicit declaration made a week 
previously by Japan that if the effort to throw more 
troops into Korea were persisted in, it could only be 
regarded as a casus belli. When, therefore, the com- 
mander of the Naniwa Kan observed the Kow-sliing 
heading for a landing-place, with troops on board, he 
directed her to heave to. The British captain of the 
chartered vessel obeyed, and, bowing to superior force, 
would have followed the Naniwa to a Japanese port, 
but the control of the ship was taken out of his hands 
by the Chinese on board, who refused to surrender or 
to allow the captain to do so. Seeing that the Kow- 
shing carried guns they were field guns, it is true the 
commander of the Naniwa gave her the choice of at 

Z 2 



340 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

once submitting to capture or of being sunk, and the 
British Commander having intimated his inability to 
exercise command, a warning signal was made and a 
missile was fired. The Kow-shing worked her field- 
guns, and the soldiers on board used their rifles, shooting 
not only at the Japanese ship, but at their own fellow- 
countrymen who had taken to the water. Such an un- 
equal contest could not last long, and under a weighty 
broadside from the Naniwds Armstrongs the chartered 
ship soon went down, but the captain and others of her 
European crew were picked .up by boats which the 
Naniwa had lowered for the purpose, and were well 
treated on board. The incident created profound in- 
terest at the time, because the Kow-sJiing was flying the 
British flag, and was owned by a British firm in 
Shanghai. Apart from this fact it was admitted that 
to all intents and purposes, she was engaged in the 
Chinese service, and was under their control. War had 
broken out, though the British captain did not know it 
until the Japanese officers who visited him from the 
Naniwa apprised him of the fact. They declared that 
his endeavour to land troops was so manifestly hostile 
that it would be resisted, and, as a matter of course, any 
recognition of the principle that a ship sailing under 
neutral colours might carry to its completion an un- 
dertaking so palpably detrimental to Japanese interests 
was impossible. It would have opened a way for the 
engagement of an indefinite number of foreign-owned 
vessels in the work of transporting Japan's avowed 



WAR WITH CHINA. 341 

enemies to the scene of conflict. The Nanizua's officers 
appear to have regarded the exhibition of the British 
flag by the Kow-shing as a ruse de guerre; and they were 
to some extent warranted in taking this view, from the 
fact that the Chinaman which fired the torpedo earlier 
in the day had actually been flying the Japanese flag 
just previously. At all events they had the best reasons 
for regarding the Kow-shing s enterprise as inimical to 
Japan's interests, and as they could be quite certain 
that the employment of the British flag in any way 
incompatible with the strictest neutrality was un- 
authorised, and, moreover, would never be sanctioned, 
by Great Britain, it was quite natural that they should 
assume that the chartered ship was practically at that 
hour a Chinese vessel. And they were right in this 
assumption, for it afterwards appeared that a clause in 
the charter had provided that immediately on any out- 
break of hostilities the ship was to become, for a fixed 
sum, the absolute property of those who chartered her. 
War had begun that morning, and the ship had, owing 
to that circumstance, nominally passed into the hands 
of the Chinese some hours before the action took place. 
It is to the credit of Japan that she offered compensa- 
tion in those instances where a neutral had suffered loss 
through his connection with the sunken ship, and the 
attitude of Japan throughout was one of conciliation, so 
far as was consistent with the recognition of her right to 
act as she did under the peculiar circumstances of the 
case. 



342 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

At about the same time the other transports engaged 
were successful in landing their men, and a body of 
between two and three thousand Chinese soldiers had 
collected at A-san, or Ya-san, towards which port the 
K<nv-shing was heading when she was sunk off the 
Prince Jerome Gulf. A skirmish ensued with a force of 
Japanese which had been landed in the vicinity, it being 
a convenient point from which to march on Soul, and 
the Chinese General retreated with part of his command 
by a road which led to the mountains of the interior, 
and thence to the northward towards Ping- Yang, at 
which town he made his reappearance some weeks 
later. 

Ping-Y'ang. It is a remarkable fact, and one for 
which it would be difficult to find any parallel in history, 
that not only in this preliminary skirmish, but at every 
subsequent encounter throughout the war, the Chinese 
troops were ignominiously defeated by their better- 
disciplined and more resolute opponents. It is true 
that, in the earlier stages more particularly, a victory 
was often claimed for the Chinamen, but upon examina- 
tion it invariably turned out that there had been the 
most flagrant exaggeration, and that success really had 
rested with the Japanese. A-san was followed by Ping- 
Yang, six weeks later, during which period of intense 
activity on both sides the Chinese had marched large 
bodies of troops into Korea from the northward, and 
the Japanese had brought up tremendous reinforce- 
ments by sea. Ping- Yang proved to be the Gravelotte 



WAR WITH CHINA. 343 

of the Chino-Japanese War, and, by the consummate 
strategy of Marshal Yamagata, which proved success- 
ful in an attack delivered from three directions, the 
flower of the Chinese Army was all but annihilated. 
The remnant of the defeated at A-san had, by a cir- 
cuitous route, managed to join the other Chinese bat- 
talions a short time before the battle on September. 
1 5th, and were thus enabled to participate in the stam- 
pede which ensued. 

Practically this was the last which the Koreans saw 
of the vast army which China had thrown into the 
peninsula, in a vain effort to support by force her claim 
to exercise suzerainty over that region. The Korean 
King promptly rid himself of even the semblance of 
vassalage, and no more complete justification of the 
course which Japan followed could be desired, than is to 
be found in the new era of prosperity which has dawned 
upon Korea since the Chin3se forces quitted its borders. 
Certain troublesome tribes in the south have risen against 
authority, it is true, but their puny efforts were never 
formidable, and have been suppressed with only slight 
assistance from the Japanese force of gendarmes lent to 
the Korean King for the purpose of restoring order. 

After Ping- Yang, the Chinese made no stand until 
they had crossed the Yalu river into Manchuria. Yama- 
gata followed at his leisure, and inflicted another defeat 
upon them at Chiu-lien-cheng, a town on the banks of 
the river, and lying on the road which leads to Moukden, 
the ancient capital of the Manchu dynasty. 



344 ADVANCE JAPAN. 



The Yalu \a * ai i:ii^a^-Mi-iii. Prior to this, how- 
ever, and only two days after the victory of Ping-Yang, 
the Japanese were successful in a naval engagement be- 
tween Hai-Yun-tao (Sea-Mist Isle) and the mouth of the 
Yalu. This battle is memorable as having established 
the value in actual warfare of swift and well-armed 
cruisers. The Japanese ships were so smartly handled 
by Admiral Ito that the Chinese squadron, under Ad- 
miral Ting, was out-manoeuvred at all points. The 
supremacy of the Japanese at sea was confirmed, and it 
has been ascribed in no small degree next to their 
superior speed to to the excellent fire maintained by 
the machine guns and 'small quick-firing cannon with 
which their vessels were furnished. The Chinese had 
20 vessels engaged, including their torpedo boats, 
against 16, all told, on the Japanese side. The total 
tonnage of Chinese ships in action was 36,005 tons, 
that of the Japanese amounting to a trifle more, viz., 
37,014 tons. But the average speed of the vessels com- 
posing the Chinese fleet was 15*4 knots an hour, as com- 
pared with an average of 17-2 knots in that representing 
the power of Japan. Speed was an important factor in 
the problem to be solved, and it might have gone hard 
with one or two of the Japanese, had the action resulted 
otherwise than in the great success for them that it did, 
as the best pace of their slowest ship, notwithstanding 
the high average, was rather less than 12 knots. The 
slowest ship in the Chinese fleet, on the other hand, 
could steam 14^5 knots, so that when the day went 



-YALU BATTLC 

Stay I 



I Yrihmo 7 |Mri 

I ToKath.ho J Ham, a 

J AK.K.UIII.I 9 Hivt. 

4 IUiiiu fc fuS 



1 Yona 
Z Charf 
3 



ruer o 

Y"nq CXJ? M" 

~) X-n 9 CW Y> 
:VUIH Kn,T. 



""" 



tf .'< / * 

/ .:/ '^ 






[. 



WAR WITH CHINA. 347 

against them the surviving vessels of Admiral Ting's 
command were able to get away, with the conviction 
that only a part of the Japanese squadron could chase 
them. With the approach of night this was practically 
impossible. 

The action lasted from about mid-day until past five 
p.m., and was furiously contested all that time. When 
sighted in early morning, Admiral Ting was convoying 
transports to the mouth of the Yalu river, and having a 
good start of his opponents he was able to see his charges 
safely into the estuary before the close approach of Ad- 
miral Ito rendered an action inevitable. The Chinese 
Commander then put to sea to face his enemy, with his 
two ironclads in the centre of the line, and his smaller 
armoured ships forming the right and left wings, four on 
each side of the ironclads Chen- Yuen and Ting- Yuen. 
The ten ships moved forward in line abreast, followed 
by three others at a little distance, and the torpedo- 
boats hovered on either flank. Admiral Ito adopted 
tactics of quite another order, and dividing his force into 
a main squadron and a flying squadron, he launched the 
latter straight at his rival, but when well within range 
the four leading Japanese described an arc of ninety 
degrees, and passed rapidly along the front of one-half 
of Ting's line, delivering their broadsides as they went, 
and circling round the last ship of his line proceeded to 
execute the same movement in his rear. They actually 
completed the circuit of the ten Chinese ships in this 
daring fashion, pouring in a veritable hail of shot and 



348 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



shell as they went by. Admiral Ting's formation ham- 
pered his movements, and his vessels could only bring 
half of their guns to bear on the enemy. Meanwhile 
the other ships of the Japanese fleet had come into 
action with their heavier metal, the Matsushima, 
Itsukits/uma, and HashidaM in particular doing great 




THE GUNBOAT "AKAGI." 

execution on the Chinese ironclads with their 66-ton 
Canet guns. 

The escape of the Chinese fleet to the shelter of 
Port Arthur prevented the Japanese Admiral from 
following up his victory at the moment, and the Japan- 
ese fleet was also in need of repairs, though the greater 
portion of these were effected while the vessels were 
at sea. 

The immediate consequence of the battle off the Yalu 



V 



\-\ 

' " "* 



YALU BATTLE. 



Stage 4 



1 



WAR WITH CHINA. 351 

was the loss to China of the barbette armour-clad King- 
Yuen, 2,850 tons, and the cruisers Chih Yuen, 2,300 
tons, Chao-Yang, 1,350 tons, Yang Wei, 1,350 tons, and 
the Kwang Ki, 1,030 tons, all of which were sunk or 
burned. 

The Captured Vessels* After this engagement 
the Chinese Pei-Yang fleet, which has since passed into 
the hands of the Japanese Naval Department, consisted 
of the sister armour-clads Chen Yuen and Ting Yuen, 
7,280 tons, the Lai Yuen, 2,850 tons, and the Tsi- Yuen, 
2,320 tons, with the coast-defence armour-clad Ping 
Yuen, 2,850 tons, the deck-protected cruisers Citing 
Yuen, 2,300 tons, and the Foo Ching, 2,500 tons, some 
smaller gunboats, and the torpedo flotilla. China still 
possesses the bulk of the Foochow squadron (Nan Yang), 
to which belonged the Yang Wei and Chao Yang, sunk 
at the Yalu battle. It consists wholly of unprotected 
cruisers, however, none of which are above 2,500 tons, 
and a few gunboats and old-fashioned craft utterly un- 
serviceable for modern warfare. The Shanghai and Can- 
ton flotillas are smaller still. Altogether China's naval 
strength at the opening of the campaign stood at 

2 Second-class Battleships 

9 Port-defence Vessels 

2 Armoured Cruisers 

9 Second-class Cruisers 

12 Third-class Cruisers of over 10 knots speed 
27 Third-class Cruisers of less than that speed, 

with 2 first-class, 26 second-class, and 13 third-class 



352 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

torpedo-boats. A large proportion of this no longer 
exists, as far as the original owners are concerned, and 
the remainder is by no means formidable. 

Fung-whang-Cheng. The pause which ensued in 
hostilities afloat was by no means perceptible in the 
operations on land, for Marshal Yamagata after his 
victory at Chiu-lien-cheng continued to hold that place 
as his headquarters, and thence to direct the campaign 
in Liao-Tung, which prevailed with intervals of greater 
or less activity throughout the winter. The important 
city of Fung-whang-Cheng succumbed to attack in 
October, and the Marshal's outposts were pushed for- 
ward to Lien-shan-Kwan, a hamlet of some forty houses 
situated in a narrow gorge, surrounded on three sides by 
the peaks of the celebrated Mo-tien-ling ("Heaven-touch- 
ing Pass "), which forms a natural gateway on the road 
between Liao-Yang and Fung-whang-Cheng. Mo-tien- 
ling is renowned in the history of Manchuria as a spot 
on which there have been numerous encounters, and it 
forms perhaps the strongest position among many in the 
highlands which divide Korea from the valley of the Liao 
and its tributaries. 

Part of Yamagata's force was successful in penetra- 
ting these highlands at another point due west of Fung- 
whang-Cheng, and passing by way of Makiaputsu and 
To-mu-cheng, reached the valuable strategic post of 
Hai-cheng, a small walled city on the edge of the 
mountainous country overlooking the valley of the 
To-mu-chiang. 



WAR WITH CHINA. 353 

Still another portion of the Japanese forces were dis- 
patched towards Siu-yen-cheng, an important point in 
the southern section of the highlands, through which a 
road leads from the eastern shore of the Liao-Tung pro- 
vince to the large city of Kai-ping-cho\v, situated close 
to the western coast of the same peninsula. 

Marshal Yamagata's main body was employed in 
securing his front towards Saimatsui and Moukden, a 
very necessary service in view of attack by Chinese 
troops advancing from the North. It was not until 
December that the arrival of the long-expected Manchu 
contingent from the distant banks of the Amoor River 
threatened Yamagata's right flank, and the foresight he 
had displayed in taking up a strong position on the line 
of the Chiu-lien-cheng and Moukden high-road could be 
fully appreciated. These men from the Amoor were 
opponents far more worthy of his steel than the bulk of 
the Chinese regiments which Yamagata had had to con- 
tend with in previous skirmishes, and he did well to take 
their effort seriously, although, as the sequel proved, he 
had no difficulty in resisting their onslaught when it was 
actually made. From Chiu-lien-cheng to the Mo-tien- 
ling Pass the distance by road is not less than 89 miles, 
and he had to defend this line with the 5th Army 
Corps, the advance division of which was commanded 
by General Tachimi. 

Hui-rliciiK. The 3rd Army Corps was meanwhile 
actively engaged near Hai-cheng in preventing the 
march eastward of the Chinese forces which, undci 

A A 



354 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

General Sung, had been concentrating in the vicinity of 
the Liao River, with the hope of being able ultimately 
to overwhelm Yamagata's battalions and drive him 
backward into Korea. The command at Hai-cheng de- 
volved upon General Oseko, and during December the 
capabilities of his force were fully tested by repeated 
assaults, always with the result, however, that his men 
stood firmly on their ground, and the opposing bat- 
talions hurled against them were shattered as they 
came. 

It was not until the winter was half over that the 5th 
Army Corps could be brought forward to materially 
support the 3rd, owing to the need of guarding the long 
line of communications via Fung-whang-Cheng, and the 
threatened danger from the Manchu regiments, which, 
despite the defeat inflicted upon them at the hamlet of 
At-yang-picn, still hovered upon its flank. There was 
all through the winter a strong force of Chinese quar- 
tered at Moukden, prepared to defend the ancient 
Capital, and it was at any time possible for the com- 
mandant of this strangely inactive corps to detach a 
portion thereof, and by a rather circuitous route via 
Sai-matsui and Ai-yang-pien, to fall upon the rear- 
guard of Yamagata's command at or near Tang-shan- 
cheng, a walled town lying midway between Chiu-lien 
and Fung-whang, whence a branch road strikes away 
from the main route and leads in a north-easterly direc- 
tion to another pass in this exceedingly hilly region. 
But only on one occasion was the attempt made to thus 



WAR WITH CHINA. 355 

harass the Japanese chain of communications, and it 
was a characteristic feature of the campaign that whilst 
the Chinese made little or no effort to interfere with 
the attenuated line, the Japanese never for one instant 
relaxed their watchful care, and were at no time be- 
trayed into that over-confident frame of mind which has 
ere now induced older practitioners of the art of warfare 
to hold an enemy too cheap. Possibly the Chinese 
knew that this vigilance was never abated, and there- 
fore regarded any effort to surprise their foes as 
altogether vain. Whatever the cause may have been, 
nothing is more sure than that a really active defensive 
army, operating in a territory where its leaders would 
have the advantage of knowing well the roads, would 
ordinarily give to any invading force far more cause 
for apprehension than the Japanese ever experienced 
through the operations of the defenders of Liao- 
Tung. 

Popular opinion in the Occident regarding the 
Manchu soldier has undergone a great change in the 
course of the war now nearly at its close. Imagina- 
tion had pictured him as a dashing horseman of no- 
madic tendencies, roaming freely, on a fiery steed, over 
uncultivated steppes, rather predisposed to pillage, but 
possessing the qualities of high courage and endurance 
in a marked degree. Regiments recruited exclusively, 
or even in part, from among the tribesmen would be 
staunch opponents, it was believed, on the field of 
battle, and this opinion was to some extent shared by 

A A 2 



356 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

their foes. But experience of their behaviour in actual 
warfare against the Japanese has not confirmed the vie\v 
thus commonly entertained. If they have not of late 
retired with that precipitancy which marked the earlier 
stages of the war, there has been no sensible improve- 
ment in regard to steadiness or in accuracy of firing. 
The latest series of skirmishes culminated in a stub- 
born fight at Old Nevvchwang, in which ammunition 
was squandered for a whole day by the besieged. They 
fought desperately when hemmed in by the Japanese, 
but lacked the nerve to use their weapons to advan- 
tage. 

In this encounter, followed immediately by a day's 
fighting at Yingkwa, the Treaty Port commonly known- 
as Newchwang, the Chinese were reinforced to some 
extent by troops from Moukden, their commanders 
having at last become weary of waiting at the " sacred 
city " for a foe which gave no sign of an intention to 
approach. 

Newchwang and Yiiigltwa. Nevvchwang, as a 
depot of foreign trade, came under the jurisdiction for 
the time being of the victors, the merchants of various 
nationalities resident at the port having been notified 
that they had nothing to fear from the invasion. On 
the contrary, as no doubt some of the inhabitants fully 
realised, they were far more safe when guarded by the 
Japanese troops than they had been when nominally 
under the care of half-disciplined hordes of Ho-nan and 
other provincial levies. Those very unreliable battalions. 



WAR WITH CHINA. 357 

fled at the first contact with the Mikado's men, and 
relieved the settlement of an incubus which had rested 
upon it for many weeks. 

Marshal Yamagata's health broke down in Chiu- 
lien-cheng, and he was invalided home, being suc- 
ceeded in the command of the ist Japanese Army 
by Lieutenant-General Nodzu, who has lately been 
raised to the rank of field-marshal. On his recovery 
Marshal Yamagata became Minister of War in the 
Cabinet, and is now Inspector-General of the Army. 

Port Arthur. The great strategical importance of 
Port Arthur, as well as the immense stores of war mate- 
rial which it was known to possess, had not been lost 
sight of by the Japanese leaders, and an expedition was 
despatched from Hiroshima in October, which had for 
its object the assault and capture of the fortress. The 
command of this 2nd Japanese Army was undertaken in 
person by the then Minister for War, Marshal Oyama, 
and as Port Arthur was not only a place of which the 
possession was much to be desired, but was regarded 
by all good judges as a very strong position, the proceed- 
ings were from the outset marked by a cautious deter- 
mination which left nothing to chance. The transports 
conveying 24,000 men were convoyed by a squadron of 
the Japanese fleet, lest the Chinese ships should suddenly 
emerge from their hiding-places and pounce upon unpro- 
tected vessels. As the event proved, however, the Chinese 
admiral was out of reach at the time, having just pre- 
viously made good his escape to the naval station of 



358 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Wei-hai-Wei, on the other side of the Straits of Pechili. 
Snugly immured in the harbour there, and sheltered by 
the island of Liu-kung-tao from observation as well 
as from rough weather, the Chinese fleet made abso- 
lutely no effort to defend its northern depot at Port 
Arthur, on which so many millions of taels had been 
expended. 

Marshal Oyama's expedition had therefore a clear field 
for landing the 2nd Army, and the transports having 
brought flat-bottomed boats for the purpose, the disem- 
barkation was effected without mishap at a spot in Korea 
Bay, some 50 miles to the north-east of the coveted posi- 
tion. Subsequently it was found to be feasible to land 
the heavy siege guns at a point nearer by 20 miles to 
Port Arthur, but this was only effected after the army 
had marched thither overland, and with the object of 
avoiding the excessive labour attendant upon mountain 
transport. Ta-lien-Wan, about half-way from the place 
of disembarkation to the fortress, proved to be the quarter 
in which resistance was first met with, but it was of so 
excessively feeble a character as to offer scarcely any 
perceptible obstacle to the progress of the invaders. 
The Chinese had built forts, and had armed them with 
Krupp guns ; but after the first discharge the garrisons 
incontinently fled towards Port Arthur or to the walled 
town of Kinchow, only four miles distant. Over 30 
modern cannon of excellent quality, large quantities of 
ammunition, and the plans of the torpedo defences by 
which it had been hoped to repel an attack, all fell into 



.r- 




WAR WITH CHINA. 




the hands of the victors. No equipment could have 
been more complete in its way than that of the 
Ta-lien-Wan forts, and they had even been connected 
together by telephone. But 
the material organisation 
had not been supplemented 
by resolute men, and they 
proved a snare to their de- 
signers. For the very com- 
pleteness with which the ob- 
structed regions had been 
mapped out enabled the 
invaders to lift and appro- 
priate the mines at their 

leisure, and the electrical 

MARSHAL OVAMA 

apparatus which formed (Minister for War). 

part of the spoils was not the least valuable of the 
whole. 

Needless to say, the Japanese general took an early 
opportunity of making the walled town of Kinchow 
temporarily his own Sovereign's property, the remnant 
of the former garrison not even watting to risk an en- 
gagement ; and when all likelihood of interruption had 
been done away with in that direction, Marshal Oyama 
devoted his entire energies to the formidable task of cap- 
turing the fortress upon which the Chinese relied to pre- 
serve the inviolability of their Capital. 

The fugitives from Ta-licn-Wan had helped to swell 
the already numerous garrison to a total of some- 



362 ADVANCE JAP AX. 

thing like 21,000 men, and there must have been 
fully this force present up to within a few days of 
the actual assault of the place on the 2Oth and 2ist 
November. Shortly before the preparations were com- 
pleted for the attack, however, the Japanese Marshal 
opened a path for those who were willing to avail them- 
selves thereof. They were given an opportunity of 
getting away by sea from the little bay in rear of the 
fortress called Pigeon Bay, and also by land to the 
northward ; and it is believed that a large number availed 
themselves of the chances of escape before the invest- 
ment had been perfected. Others were, doubtless, taken 
off by junks from the eastern shores, and when the 
place was surrendered on the 2ist there were not more 
than a third left of those who had, until quite a recent 
date, formed the large army encamped within the lines. 

The fall of Port Arthur gave to the Japanese most 
valuable stores of ammunition suitable for all arms, 
and about 80 guns, most of them Krupps, of the best 
construction. Large quantities of grain and other pro- 
visions likewise fell into their hands, and two small 
steamers which were in dock at the time. For a long 
time it was supposed that the Chinese Pei-Yang squad- 
ron was also to be found reposing in the harbour and 
docks of the depot, but, as already mentioned, the 
Admiral had made the best of his way to his southern 
shelter at Wei-hai-Wei, just 100 miles to the south-east. 
Even without the men-of-war, the Japanese secured 
rare booty, and the possession of a naval station in 



WAR WITH CHINA. 363 

those seas, so splendidly provided with all that modern 
science could suggest and wealth procure, was in itself 
an immeasurable advantage to a fleet which had still to 
keep its hold on the Yellow Sea and the two gulfs of 
Pechili and Liao-Tung. 

Immediately after its acquisition, the depot was 
handed over to the Minister of the Navy, and its affairs 
have since that date been administered by the officials 
of his department. The repairing dockyard and basin 
have been constantly busy of late with the restoration 
of captured and other vessels to sea-going trim, and the 
high value set upon the fortress and its adjuncts by the 
original possessors is quite confirmed by the profound 
appreciation of their usefulness evinced by their new 
owners. 

Figuratively speaking, it would be a work of super- 
erogation to detail all the incidents of the fighting 
which led to the capture of the numerous forts and re- 
doubts which comprised the extensive fortifications of 
Port Arthur in November. The transport of the siege 
guns occupied nearly a fortnight, as the route from 
Ta-lien-Wan lay for the most part over very difficult 
country. Ridges had to be surmounted, brushwood cut 
down, trees felled, and on the low-lying sections the 
road had to be strengthened to an extent practically 
equal to its entire renewal. 

As the invading army drew near to the fortress, a 
sally was attempted on a small scale, but the besieged 
were driven back, with loss. They succeeded in cap- 



364 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

turing some fifteen Japanese troopers, however, by an 
ambush, and on the way to the fortress, during their 
retreat, they put these captives to death with revolting 
cruelty, leaving their horribly mutilated bodies close to 
the track. There they were discovered on the morrow, 
when the main body of Marshal Oyama's army made a 
general advance. The sight filled the comrades of the 
murdered men with uncontrollable indignation, and 
fuel was added to the fire when they discovered, on the 
fall of the fortress two days later, additional evidence 
in the streets of the town itself of the barbarities in- 
flicted by the Chinese upon those who were unfortunate 
enough to fall into their hands. The anger of Oyama's 
men prompted them to kill all whom they found in the 
streets with arms in their hands, for they knew that the 
Chinese soldiers had disguised themselves in civilian 
clothing, and that the absence of any uniform was by 
no means to be accepted "as evidence of pacific inten- 
tions. Weapons were discharged from several of the 
houses also on the day the Japanese entered the town, 
and this desultory firing was only repressed by severe 
measures. Unhappily this gave rise to a report that 
wholesale slaughter was indulged in, and, as not un- 
commonly happens in such cases, a profound sympathy 
for the vanquished induced people at a distance to lend 
a too ready ear to statements reflecting upon the 
humanity of the conquerors. That there was some un- 
necessary bloodshed in connection with the capture of 
the fortress may well be believed, but that the victims 



WAR WITH CHINA. 



365 



were more than a score in number, if in reality there 
were so many, is at least open to question. The most 
sensational stories were current at the time, and were in 
some degree ascribable, it is believed, to the extreme 
view taken of the cir- 
cumstances by a corre- 
spondent whose powers 
of vivid description had 
been given full rein not 
long before in an account 
of the battle of Ping- 
Yang, purporting to have 
been written by lantern 
light on the ramparts of 
that place, in close touch 
with the scenes depicted, 
when, as a matter of fact, 
the writer was some hun- 
dreds of miles distant 
from the Korean coast. 
That excesses were perpetrated by individuals at the 
capture of Port Arthur appears to be indisputable, 
but that they were traced to the soldiers, in more 
than a few isolated instances, is not so clear. On the 
question of the humanity of the Japanese, as a people, 
there can be no two opinions among those persons who 
have, by actual residence in the country, qualified 
themselves to act as judges. Throughout the war the 
treatment of Chinese wounded in the field hospitals. 




ADMIRAL TSUBOI. 



366 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and, in an equal degree, the prisoners in Japanese 
camps, has been characterised by a strict adherence 
to the principles of modern warfare as understood in 
Western countries. Japan has proved most satisfac- 
torily that in this regard her methods differ in no per- 
ceptible degree from the practice of other civilised 
states, and there was never any room for doubt, in the 
minds of those who really understand the Japanese 
disposition, that the national character would emerge 
triumphant from the ordeal. 

Wei-hai-Wel. Marshal Oyama despatched a part 
of his force northward, after the capture of the fortress, 
following the track of the fugitives in the direction of 
Kai-ping-chow, and this force arrived in time to co- 
operate with General Nodzu's battalions in the capture 
of that important city early in the new year. The bulk 
of Oyama's army remained in the neighbourhood of the 
Lao-tieh-Shan Promontory until a further demand was 
made upon its services to assist in the capture of Wei- 
hai-Wei. For this purpose a large body of men was 
transported by steamers to the city of Yung-Cheng, 
close to Shantung North East Promontory, whence they 
marched, over a difficult road for artillery, to the attack 
of the southern naval station. A second force was 
landed at a point on the coast near Ning-hai, 20 miles 
westward of the depot, and with the fleet under Admiral 
Ito to guard the outlet seaward, a complete investment 
of the place was effected by the 29th of January. Inside 
the harbour of \Vei-hai-Wci were the two Chinese iron- 



WAR WITH CHINA. 



367 



clads and several other warships, composing the squadron 
of Admiral Ting. Liu-kung-tao and several smaller 
islands at the entrance of the harbour had been well 
fortified, and each of the hills in the rear of the town 
had likewise been made to contribute its share in the 
general scheme of de- 
fence by the provision 
upon its sea face of a 
formidable battery. 
Nothing had been 
omitted, by the en- 
gineers responsible for 
the design, which could 
add to the strength of 
the works, and unques- 
tionably Wei-hai-Wei 
was a possession in 
which the Chinese were 
entitled to take some 
pride. Like Port GENERAL KOUAMA 

Arthur, the Cannon (\ ice-Minister for War). 

mounted in the forts was throughout of the newest 
pattern, and for the most part of heavy calibre. The 
store of ammunition at each point was ample. The 
vessels in port were capable in themselves of offering 
enormous resistance to capture. The garrison on shore 
was amply victualled, and nothing beyond downright 
pluck and determination were needed, as it seemed, to 
hold an enemy at bay for an indefinite time. 




368 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

To do the Chinese justice, they came out of the affair 
with far more credit to thems3lves than could be ac- 
corded to them at any other stage of the war. The first 
fort was captured by the assailants without much diffi- 
culty, and the guns of the second were likewise soon in 
their hands, prompt advantage being taken of the cir- 
cumstance by Marshal Oyama's men to aid the assault 
on the neighbouring positions by an active employment 
of the captured guns. Thus one fort after another fell 
to the Japanese, and its weapons were turned against 
the Chinese not only ashore but afloat, for an artillery 
duel was soon in progress between Admiral Ting's 
squadron in the harbour and the batteries of which 
Oyama's men had possessed themselves on the hills. 
Two days were consumed in the effort to put the 
defenders on shore to flight, but the evening of the 3ist 
saw them in full retreat to the south. The captured 
forts formed a semicircle around the harbour, and could 
make excellent practice from their elevated positions on 
the doomed ships in the harbour. 

Capture of Wei-hal-Wei. All this time Admiral 
Ting had made no effort to escape from the toils. The 
fleet of his enemy waited outside, it is true, but the 
Chinese ironclads were superior in defensive strength, as 
well as in offensive power, to anything the Japanese 
Admiral could bring to bear against them. They, at 
least, could have cut their way through, it might have 
been supposed, even if less efficiently-protected craft 
failed to break the cordon. Possibly the danger of being 




11 15 



WAR WITH CHINA. 371 

torpedoed in the narrow navigable channel was sufficient 
to deter the Chinese commander from making the at- 
tempt, but whatever may have been the cause, it is 
certain that the Chinese vessels lay at anchor under the 
guns of the Liu-kung-tao forts day after day, firing 
continually in reply to the hill forts held by the invader.--:, 
and relying upon the efficacy of a boom across the 
eastern entrance, and their own electric search-lights, to 
preserve them from direct attack. 

Admiral Ito could with difficulty repress the ardour of 
his subordinate officers, and at last consented to risk his 
torpedo-boats in a night encounter. Three of them 
broke through the obstructions on the 4th February, 
after the moon had set, and steaming straight for the 
ironclads, launched their missiles in the face of a de- 
structive fire from the aroused Chinamen. Not one of 
those boats escaped without serious damage and loss of 
life, but the experiment had been so far successful that 
the Ting- Yuen was sunk, and the Citing- Yuen, another 
armoured ship, quite disabled. A second attempt the 
next night was even more successful, and two cruisers, 
the Cliih- Yuen and Wei- Yuen, with one gunboat, were 
sunk, and the second ironclad, Cken- Yuen, so damaged 
as to be immovable. The weather was so severe at this 
time that the lieutenant and two seamen of a Japanese 
torpedo-boat were frozen to death at their posts, as they 
were retiring out of range after the action. 

With the loss of the ironclads and three other large 
vessels, besides gunboats and the entire torpedo flotilla, 

15 II 2 



372 ADVANCE /APAiV. 

which made a rush when too late to escape, the last hope 
of the Chinese had flown. Admiral Ting and three of 
his captains committed suicide, and the remnant of the 
Pei-Yang fleet surrendered. With that respect for a 
brave man which cultivated peoples invariably show, the 
Japanese at once placed a vessel at the service of the 
Chinamen to convey the remains of the deceased Admiral 
and his officers home for interment, and their ships half- 
masted the Japanese ensign, and fired minute-guns, as 
the gunboat passed through their lines bearing away her 
dead. The town of Wei-hai-Wei had been delivered up 
on the 3rd of February, the garrison having dispersed 
towards the westward, and the gates having been opened 
by the civilians. 

Thus disappeared from the arena, not only the Chinese 
fleet, but her great arsenal and dockyard, with all its 
valuable stores, and of not less importance the man 
whose reputation for determination and gallant conduct 
before the enemy had been fairly upheld at a time when 
China's fortunes had sunk to their lowest ebb. Admiral 
Ting received most of his professional training under the 
supervision of Captain Lang, R.N., and if he failed to 
achieve success for China with his fleet at sea, the result 
was due in no small degree to the inferiority in speed and 
mobility of his ships. Of his reasons for immuring his 
squadron in the harbour of Wei-hai-Wei, week after week, 
whilst his enemy was sweeping the seas, it is probable 
no explanation will ever be forthcoming. Presumably 
they were comprehended by the Viceroy, Li Hung 



WAR WITH CHINA. 373 

Chang, or other measures would have been initiated, 
and we are not likely to learn the secret now, long 
after the Admiral's disappearance from the scene. 

Overture* Tor Peace* Overtures for peace were 
made on three separate occasions during the progress 
of the war. Mr. Detring, Commissioner of Customs at 
Tientsin, was first of all the bearer of a message to 
Japan, but he was not received in audience for the 
reason, apparently, that he was empowered to make 
enquiries only. He was followed by two Chinese 
Envoys, who were received at Hiroshima upon the 
assurance of the Peking Government that they had 
been armed with full powers. It was discovered, how- 
ever, that they were not authorised to conclude or sign 
any arrangement whatever settling the terms of peace, 
but were instructed to ask the Japanese Government to 
consent to their referring all proposals to the Tsung-li 
Ya-men at their own capital. Under such circum- 
stances there was nothing to be done by the Japanese 
Ministry but to show the envoys the door, and they 
were accordingly shipped to Shimonoseki, en route for 
China, without loss of time. This fruitless mission took 
place simultaneously with the fall of Wei-hai-Wei, and 
nothing further was attempted in the nature of a pacific 
settlement until Li Hung Chang went in person from 
Tientsin to Shimonoseki, fully accredited by the Chin- 
ese Emperor to make terms for the conclusion of peace. 
The aged Viceroy reached Shimonoseki on the 19th of 
March, and was received with full ambassadorial honours, 



374 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

the Prime Minister of Japan, Marquis Ito Hirobumi, 
and the Minister for Foreign Affairs, Count Mutsu, 
having journeyed thither from Hiroshima to meet him. 
Attempted AMwaMMiiiatioii or l.i Hung; Chung. 

A sos/ii, one of the reckless, senseless ne'er-do-well 
class which have plagued Japan for the past decade, 
fired a pistol at the Ambassador on the fifth day after 
his arrival, as he was returning from a conference, and 
the incident occasioned the greatest pain and anxiety 
to his hosts, the Emperor and Empress showing the 
most intense solicitude for the recovery of the nation's 
visitor. The sos/ii imagine that they advance the inter- 
ests of their country by wholly unexpected and incon- 
venient displays of " patriotism," when, in reality, they 
only bring disgrace upon all who may, directly or in- 
directly, be concerned. 

The Viceroy's first proposals had reference, it is under- 
stood, to an armistice, but it was scarcely to be expected, 
at this stage of the conflict, that the Japanese would 
consent to stay their hands without adequate concessions 
being made, and as these would scarcely have fallen 
short of the occupation of Peking itself by the Tenshi's 
forces, and the surrender of the port of Shan-hai-Kwan 
and the railway thence to Tientsin, it is probable the 
Ambassador found the price to be paid for a cessation 
of hostilities somewhat higher than he expected. 

Meanwhile the Japanese fleet transferred its sphere 
of operations in part to the region of Formosa, and the 
Pescadores Islands, lying in the channel between Tai- 



WAR WITH CHL\A. 



375 



Wan to give the place its true name and the Chinese 
mainland, were occupied on the 25th of March, almost 
without opposition. It had from the first been part of 
Japan's programme to seize and hold Tai-Wan, if not 
as a permanent possession, at least temporarily until 
peace should be declared and an indemnity paid, so 
that the execution of their design in this particular 
occasioned no surprise. Apart from their position on 
China's southern flank, the Pescadores group boast at 
least two harbours of great value in the typhoon season, 
and the trade of these and the adjacent large island of 
Tai-Wan will become of considerable importance in 
enterprising hands. 




376 




CHAPTER XV. 

COLONISATION AND TRADE THE JAPANESE AS 
COLONISTS. 

T is clear that Japan is now taking upon 
herself new responsibilities in regard 
to colonisation, and it may therefore 
be instructive to note in what degree 
her previous efforts in this direction 
have been successful. The policy she 
, has pursued with regard to the nor- 
thern island of Yeso, which has always 
been peopled by a race altogether dis- 
tinct from that which inhabits the other islands of the 
Japanese Empire, may be accepted as a criterion which 
will enable us to judge of the course she is certain to 
follow in Formosa. 

The Ainos, as the aborigines of Yeso are termed, are 
a good-natured but uncivilised people of Mongolian 
stock, with straight eyes and broad features, wide 
shoulders and sturdy limbs. The eyelids have the fold 
inward which is noticeable in the Japanese. The fore- 
head is flat and slopes backward. Hair and complexion 
are both dark, the men having a strong growth of beard, 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 377 

giving to the elders the appearance of Jewish patriarchs. 
Neither razors nor scissors are used by the men, who are 
veritable Esaus. The women keep the hair short, and 
tattoo their upper lips, so that at a little distance they 
seem to wear moustaches. They are invariably shorter 
than the men, averaging 4 feet 10 inches to 5 feet 
i inch, whilst the men probably attain a height of 
5 feet to 5 feet 4 inches. Occasionally a man is seen 
standing six feet high, but the tall ones are rare. 

Colon! Mat! on of YCMO. These people live by hunt- 
ing and fishing, and were loth to do any agricultural 
work until the Japanese settlers took them seriously in 
hand. Their nature was kind and submissive, and 
induced them readily to fall in with the views of the 
Government, which has for 20 years past established 
farms and taught the natives the value of husbandry. 
The Aino clothing is still conspicuously simple, being 
little more than a smock frock open in front and con- 
fined at the waist by a coarse girdle. Men and women 
dress nearly alike, the only embellishment of their 
costume being their own quaint embroidery, in which 
they use a thread made from elm-bark. In their dwell- 
ings, as in their dress, the utmost simplicity prevails. 
The hut is sometimes slightly elevated on posts driven 
into the ground, with a roof of reeds, and the sleeping 
places are benches, covered with mats, which run around 
the walls. One hole serves as a door, and another as a 
window. Needless to say an Aino hut is an extremely 
unsavoury habitation, and no European can bear its vile 
odours for any length of time, though Captain Hlakiston 



78 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

was not indisposed occasionally to avail himself of the 
shelter thus afforded when on shooting excursions, and 
in this way acquired considerable knowledge of the Aino 
language. 

In their religious observances, and patriarchal habits 
and practices, the Ainos are on a level with the aborig- 
ines of Saghalien and Kamschatka, the sun and moon 
being regarded as deities, and the bear receiving likewise 
semi-divine honours. This fact does not prevent the 
Aino making a feast of his bear, which is reared in the 
family, partly as a pet, and partly as a creature to be 
reverenced. 

There are not more than 20,000 Ainos in Yeso, and it 
was these people whom in 1870 the Japanese undertook 
to bring within the pale of civilisation. Prior to that 
time they were regarded altogether as savages. 

The virgin soil of the island afforded a splendid 
material upon which to experiment, and one of the 
earliest acts of the newly constituted Government of 
Tokio was to procure the best advice upon matters of 
scientific agriculture which the United States to whose 
Minister in Japan the department was indebted for 
many valuable suggestions could furnish. General 
Capron, and a staff of able assistants, were deputed to 
establish a typical Californian fruit farm in the suburbs 
of Tokio, to begin with, and this was subsequently 
copied and enlarged at Sapporo, the spot selected in the 
centre of Yeso as the seat of local government. A 
road had to be cut through the trackless forest for 70 
miles, and posting stations established between Volcano 



COLONISATION AXD TRADE. 379 

Bay and Sapporo. Altogether a high road of over 140 
miles had to be constructed, as certain portions of the 
undertaking had to be carried on between Volcano Bay 
and Hakodate, the treaty port of Yeso open to general 
foreign trade. 

The experience which the Government thus acquired 
in the art of colonising a new country will unquestion- 
ably serve it in good stead now that the scene of action 
is to be Tai-Wan. The aborigines of Formosa are not 
less likely to prove tractable than those of Yeso, under 
firm and competent rule ; and just as the Ainos are now 
among the most painstaking of farmers where they arc 
employed upon the State homesteads in Yeso, or upon 
their own allotments, so we may expect some day to see 
the semi-civilised Pepahuan and the savage Che-huan 
tribes of Tai-Wan thoroughly reclaimed and harmoni- 
ously working side by side, under Japanese tuition and 
guidance. 

Sapporo. At the outset, the colonisation of Yeso was 
entrusted to the Kai-taku-shi, a bureau established, as 
its title implied, in order to "effect the opening up of an 
unproductive territory." Very large sums were laid out 
in saw-mills, to cut lumber for the frame houses of 
Sapporo and other settlements, and quantities of service- 
able deals have been exported from the island. Bridge- 
building was, perhaps, the most cxtravagent item, but 
experience brought wisdom, and a cheaper form of con- 
struction was had recourse to which was found sufficiently 
substantial for all the earlier requirements of the traffic. 
With its wide and regular thoroughfares, and houses 



380 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

constructed of white pine, with shingle roofs, dominated 
by its stately Court-house a miniature of the Capitol of 
Washington in the central square, the city of Sapporo 
presented in 1873 all the appearance of a typical Far 
West Settlement. 

Railway** in YeBo. Railways have been con- 
structed from Sapporo to its northern coast port, 
Otarunai, about 22 miles, and to Poronai, where there 
are extensive coal mines, 34 miles more, with a branch 
to Ikushunbetsu. South of Sapporo the railway line 
extends to Shin-moraran, about 90 miles, the latter place 
being a fine port on Volcano Bay, marked on old charts 
as Endermo harbour. , 

The telegraph follows the same route, and has been of 
immense service in opening up the territory, which, in 
many districts, is remarkable for splendid pastures on 
which herds of cattle are maintained during the greater 
part of the year. 

Three large coal mines are in operation, at Poronai, 
Sorachi, and Ikushunbetsu, on the Ishikari River coal- 
field, the deposit being computed at 650 millions of 
tons. 

Sapporo has a large grist mill for grinding the corn 
grown in its vicinity, and thousands of farms now show 
through the clearings in the woods as the train whirls the 
traveller through what was, not manyyears ago, the track- 
less forest. The perseverance of the settlers has been pro- 
ductive of amazing results. Indian corn, melons, pump- 
kins, cucumbers, onions, asparagus, and other crops are 
found in profusion. Fruit trees border every field. The 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 381 

homesteads shelter horses, cattle, and pigs, and some 
sheep are bred successfully. The elm, ash, oak, and 
pine are indigenous, and provide excellent timber, as 
does also the Yeso fir. a wood obtained in great perfec- 
tion and of high value. 

The Sapporo mill saws easily 12,000 feet of lumber a 
day, and furnishes the settlers with tongued and grooved 
boarding. 

Everything that can be grown in the temperate zone 
can be produced in Yeso, and the marvel is to note what 
physical force, unaided to any great extent by mechanical 
means, has been able to accomplish on the farms. 

The JaimiieMe in Formosa* In Formosa the 
Japanese Government will have secured an island which 
is not only fruitful, but which, taken in conjunction with 
the adjacent group of the Pescadores Isles, is capable of 
development as a strategical post of high value. In this 
chapter, however, I am endeavouring to show how the 
Government will probably find in it a suitable field for 
the exercise of its colonising proclivities, as already ex- 
emplified in the island of Yeso. 

Near Keelung and Tamsui there are coal-fields, for 
example coal being constantly shipped from the port 
of Kcclung. A shaft was sunk nearly 20 years ago, 
and a highly bituminous coal, not unlike that mined at 
Miike, has been found in a three-feet scam. The output 
has been as high as 50,000 tons, and the Japanese 
will probably throw more vigour into the work than the 
Chinese have exhibited. The mine has sufficed, however, 
to supply the southern navy of China for years. 



382 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Tea cultivation is capable of considerable extension 
in Formosa. The Banka district is already favourably 
known, and Japanese settlers will soon have the hill-sides 
terraced, for the accommodation of the shrub, as in the 
central regions of the Hondo. Probably the cultivation 
of coffee may attract more attention also, and we know 
that already the Hakka settlers from the Chinese coast 
have for many years produced large crops of wheat, 
barley, and maize. 

Takow has always shipped a good deal of sugar, and 
indigo is grown extensively. Hemp, jute, and millet are 
likewise articles of export. 

The brilliant coral-fish which inhabit the warm waters 
of the Japanese gulf-stream (Kurosiwo) on the Formosan 
coast may compare with those of the Great Barrier Reef. 
The neighbouring seas are as well stocked with edible 
fish as are those of the Japanese mainland, and the fields 
and woods of the island abound with game of all kinds, 
pheasants, ducks, geese, snipe, and deer, boars, wild 
goats, panthers, bears, monkeys, and wild cats. Like the 
dyaks of Borneo the Formosan aborigines are head 
hunters, and the clans war with each other continually. 
Still the natives are not irreclaimable, as the efforts of the 
Chinese have already proved, and their physique is good. 
The men are above the average height of the Japanese, 
broad of chest and muscular, with extraordinarily large 
feet and hands, broad noses, good foreheads and large 
eyes, an extensive tattooing of the skin being a prevalent 
custom. Probably they are of Malay origin. The con- 
trol of the head-men of each village is freely recognised 



-TAI-WAN - 

(rttfitu) 

JAPAN'S ww 



Riu-Kiu 
i sues 





FORMOSA : JAPAN'S NK\V POSSESSION. 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 385 

and they elect a council of twelve, to which only those of 
40 years of age are admissible. 

A demand is general among the native women for 
cotton cloths, and Manchester prints and other European 
goods have long been in constant use, so that Japan will 
find in the island a market on a small scale for the pro- 
ducts of her own looms. 

Staple Industries of the Empire. Silk bids fair 
to become more and more the staple of the Japanese 
export trade. Possibly it already has a monetary value 
to the country of four millions sterling, and with the 
introduction of improved machinery the output may 
considerably increase and advance in quality. As far 
as the raw material is concerned, nothing better can be 
expected, but the manipulation may come in time to 
show fewer imperfections. Already the filatures of some 
provinces, notably that of Shinano, on the Tosando cir- 
cuit, produce white silks of such brilliancy and purity that 
they have no rival, and the progress which has already 
been made towards perfect workmanship in the districts 
near the Capital, such as Kai,Mino,K6dzuke\and Shimot- 
suke, augurs well for the growing importance to Japan 
of this industry. The raw silk actually produced, reeled, 
is scarcely less than 2,500 tons per annum, whilst nearly 
that quantity of waste silk and other less valuable pro- 
ducts must be credited to this branch of trade. Hardly 
any part of Japan is unfavourable to the growth of the 
mulberry save the extreme northern island of Yeso, but 
the centre of the industry is in the centre of Hondo. 

C C 



386 ADVANCE JAP AX. 

Japan will shortly quadruple the number of her 
spindles, and her manufactured cottons will have a 
large market in China. The standard of both countries 
is a silver standard. Wages are paid in silver, an 
operative receiving not more than 4d. to 7d. per day as 
an average rate of pay. Coal is cheap, Miike coal being 
delivered at the existing cotton mills at a price of some- 
thing under 6s. per ton. All these advantages when 
combined will presently make it very difficult for Lan- 
cashire or India to compete with Japan in the Chinese 
markets. Cotton-spinning is flourishing at a dozen 
places, particularly in Osaka, that city which has been 
termed the Venice of Japan, but which might not 
inappropriately, in regard to its manufactures, be re- 
garded as the Japanese Manchester. There are over 
40 cotton-spinning companies in all (vide Appendix). 

In Osaka, glass is made^ with economy and success, 
boots and clothing of all sorts are made for half the nation, 
woven and knitted garments being among its specialties. 
Firebricks are also produced on a paying scale. 

It may surprise some who have not had occasion to 
look closely into the trade of Japan to find that her 
exports are now but very slightly below her imports. 
Roughly speaking, the imports were of a value in 1894 of 
a little less than 11,750,000 sterling, whilst the exports 
were about equal to 11,325,000. One-tenth of the 
imports were duty free. 

Of the imports 3,480,000 or nearly a third came 
from Great Britain, whilst the goods despatched to the 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 387 

United Kingdom had a value of a little over a million 
sterling. The United States and France both take 
more merchandise from Japan than does the United 
Kingdom, but send in considerably less. China ranks 
next to ourselves, indeed, with regard to the amount of 
goods she forwards to the people of Japan. 

Import** and Exports* Perhaps it may serve the 
purpose of illustration if, in addition to the figures given 
in Appendix X., a few of the principal features of the 
export and import trade of Japan are here enumerated, 
as it will enable the reader to judge of the direction in 
which the increased facilities which are so soon to be 
afforded will be likely to lead to expansion of business. 

Japan exports raw silk and cocoons to the value of 
about 3# millions sterling, but imports cotton yarn, 
calico, and piece goods to the extent of a million and a 
half, all from the United Kingdom. 

She sends out tea valued at .800,000, and receives 
sugar in return worth about 1,150,000. 

Her export of coal, valued at half a million sterling, is 
just about balanced by her import of petroleum, for lamps. 

Rice she exports to precisely the same value, but re- 
ceives considerably more in the way of foreign provisions 
and beverages (principally for the foreign population), 
the actual amount being computed at 850,000. Silk 
textiles she exports to the extent of close upon a million 
sterling, which indicates in some measure the popularity 
Japanese dress fabrics have attained among the ladies 
of the West ; but, on the other hand, Japan imports 

c c 2 



388 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

wool and woollen goods to the value of 650,000, be- 
cause she can rear no sheep. 

She sends away a little of her own tobacco, but buys 
a great deal of Virginia, both being used for cigarettes. 
She spends large sums (they amounted to over a million 
and a quarter sterling in 1893) in machinery, ships, and 
metals ; but she sells copper, bronze, porcelain, and lac- 
quered goods value half a million annually, and likewise 
(mainly to China) dried fish, seaweed, mushrooms, and 
fish oil, value another half million. 

Miscellaneous exports include a small sum for wheat 
and other cereals, vegetable wax, fans, camphor, and 
various drugs, and a host of minor items too numerous 
to particularise ; and in the same way the imports cover 
small quantities of glass and leather, and half a million's 
worth of dyes, paints, and drugs, with some three millions' 
worth of miscellaneous articles which it would be vain to 
enumerate. 

There can be no doubt that the export trade, which 
has necessarily been crippled by the war with China, will 
vastly expand as a consequence of the conclusion of peace 
between the two countries, and that Japan will send a 
great deal more of her general produce into the Celestial 
Empire than she has been able to sell there hitherto. 

Cotton-Spinning. The cotton-spinning industries 
have been considerably dislocated of late, not only by 
the stoppage of the raw supply from the Asiatic con- 
tinent, but by the loss of a good market for the moment 
of the manufactured article. 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 389 

The trade of Japan has been by no means paralysed, 
however, by her quarrel with China, and the returns, 
when complete, will in all probability show that she has 
manufactured silk, cotton, and other textiles during 
1894 to the value of five and a half millions sterling, 
the cotton yarn produced being, moreover, of fully 
1 20,000,000 Ibs. weight. 

Opium. The Japanese Government prohibits the use 
opium of entirely, by the Chinese residents in Japan, as 
well as by its own subjects, and it may be expected that 
in any future relationship which may exist between the 
officials of Japan and the bulk of the Chinese people, 
with whom they may come in contact, the influence of 
Japan will be altogether thrown into the scale against 
the pernicious employment of the drug for other than 
medicinal purposes. In that shape only does it figure 
in the returns. 

The Finherien. Japan's resources are largely de- 
pendent upon her fisheries. In addition to the fresh 
fish consumed by her own population, she exports large 
quantities of the produce of her seas to China and else- 
where. Some idea of the extent to which this trade is 
carried on may be gathered from the fact that she salts 
or dries the fish taken on her coasts to the weight of 
about 80,000 tons annually. She exports or uses sea- 
weed as food to the weight of 48,000 tons a year, and 
she extracts oil from the captured fish, and turns the 
bones into manure to the extent of close upon 96,000 
tons per annum. 



39 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Needless to say, a very large proportion of the popu- 
lation of Japan are fishermen, or are engaged wholly or 
partly in connection with the fisheries. The actual 
numbers so employed in 1894 cannot have been fewer 
than two and a half millions out of the total of 41 
millions of inhabitants. 

But though so many of the Mikado's subjects make 
their living on or from the sea, his agricultural people 
are not less busily employed in gathering a harvest, 
though it be of another kind. 

Cereals. It is estimated, by competent authorities, 
based on actual recorded figures in previous years, that 
the crop of wheat garnered from a little over a million 
acres so sown, per annum, is fifteen and a quarter millions 
of bushels. 

In the United Kingdom we have, of course, a much 
greater area under wheat cultivation, but the staple food 
of the people of Japan is rice. They have six and three- 
quarter millions of acres bearing a rice crop, yielding 
an annual return of about 206 millions of bushels. 

Barley is grown on 1,600,000 acres, with a result to the 
farmers of 34 million bushels. Japanese barley yields 
well. 

Rye is cultivated to precisely the same extent, but 
yields 30 millions of bushels only. 

Naturally we should expect to find an immense 
amount of tea gathered, and this assumption is borne 
out by the actual figures, which show that in the Mi- 
kado's realm about 67 millions of pounds of tea were 



COLONISATION AND TRADE. 391 

produced, out of which 36 millions of pounds were 
sent to the United States. 

Notwithstanding that sugar is largely imported from 
abroad, nearly 41 thousand tons were produced in the 
Japanese islands. The cane flourishes in the southern 
portion of Hondo and in Kiushiu. 

It may not be entirely uninteresting to mention that 
Japan's horses number not more than 1,560,000, while 
there are, at a rough computation, a little over 1,090,000 
head of cattle. 

Shipping. The trade of Japan has become already 
so extensive that it needs the constant use of a large 
number of steam and sailing vessels. It is computed 
that fully 44.0 Japanese steam-ships enter or clear from 
the local custom houses at ports now open to trade 
every year, with about 650 sailing vessels. Foreign- 
owned vessels, mainly flying the British flag, enter or 
clear in about the proportion of 1,200 steamers and 150 
sailing ships every year. These numbers will be 
doubled or trebled when the commanders may load or 
discharge anywhere instead of being limited to a half- 
dozen "treaty ports." The tonnage of foreign vessels 
entering Japanese ports now averages a little over two 
million tons in a year, the actual average being about 1,490 
tons to each steamer, and 630 tons to each sailing ship. 

The average measurement of the purely British 
steamers engaged in the Japan trade, however taking 
small and large is about 1,700 tons. 

Japan's mercantile navy actually comprises 643 



392 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

steamers of foreign build or type, aggregating 102,332 
tons burthen, or an average of 159 tons; 778 sailing 
vessels of foreign design, having a total tonnage of 
45,944 tons, equal to 59 tons each on the average ; and 
829 native junks of more than 50 tons burthen, aggre- 
gating 63,458 tons, or about 76 tons each. The smaller 
junks are, of course, simply innumerable. 

Xew Treaty. The Treaty entered into between 
Japan and Great Britain last year provides for the 
opening of the country to unrestricted foreign trade 
and intercourse in the year 1899. Japan will acquire 
the right to slightly increase the tariff on all the most 
important articles of commerce, and to act as she may 
please in regard to the levies on smaller articles, the 
increased assessment to be in force for 12 years. By 
this regulation Japan will practically assume the power 
eventually to frame her own Customs policy. 

British traders will be as free to come and go, to enter 
into business relations with the people of the interior, 
and otherwise to embark upon commercial speculations 
as they are in the United Kingdom. 

Mr. R. Tayui, Chancellor of the Japanese Consulate in 
London, has just issued a Commercial Guide to the trade 
of Japan, which deals exhaustively with the prospects 
opened to British merchants under this new Treaty. 

Banking. The Yokohama Specie Bank (Shokin 
Ginko) may be taken as a fair example of Japanese en- 
terprise in this direction. Its latest balance-sheet shows 
that a dividend is declared at the rate of 1 5 per cent. 
Illustrations of Japanese Bank-notes are here appended. 




i 



o 



* 



*? 
o 







397 




CHAPTER XVI. 

THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 

QUARTER of a century 
ago there was much specula- 
tion in the minds of people 
who had business or other 
relations with the Far East, 
regarding the probable future 
of the Japanese Empire. To- 
day the problem still remains 
unsolved, and it is as fascinating as ever. 

A fear was often expressed, at the time when railways 
and telegraphs were being introduced, that the nation 
would grow as suddenly tired of its new toys as it had 
been precipitate in its acquirement of them. 

It was freely prophesied that, within a decade, Japan 
would close her gates to Occidentals as resolutely as 
she had shut and barred them centuries before. The 
pessimists were found in all ranks, and not only among 
those who dwelt at a distance, but among people who 
had already enjoyed the hospitality of the country for 
years. 



398 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



Happily their predictions were never at any time in 
the way to be realised, and it has become pretty well 
understood that the changes which startled Europe in 
1867 and 1868 were due to the forceful upheaval of a 
political system which had been undermined by natural 
agencies of long standing. It may be regarded, indeed, 
as not less insulting to our own common-sense than it 
is to the feelings of the Japanese people, to view the 




THE CRUISER " YOSHINO." 

vital changes which they have made in the past three 
decades, as having been undertaken on the spur of the 
moment. 

A Policy of Selection. It has been the aim of the 

writer to show that -the transition was by no means so 
sudden as many have supposed, for the way had been 
well paved beforehand. Japan, notwithstanding the 



THE FUTURE GF JAPAN. 399 

assertions so often made to that effect, did not put on 
" Western civilisation " as though it were a mantle. She 
endeavoured to select for herself those things which were 
best calculated to advance her interests, and has steadily 
pursued this policy to the present hour, no matter 
whether the methods introduced, or principles adopted, 
have had their origin in the Occident or in the Orient. 
She is always ready to improve herself, always alive to 
the world's progress, but, nevertheless, weighs well the 
question of their suitability or unsuitability before she 
commits herself to foreign innovations. 

To attribute her present position among nations ex- 
clusively to the adoption within her borders of the 
civilised practices of the West would be ridiculous in 
the extreme, for though she is an admirer of the arts 
and sciences which have made the West so powerful, 
she is by no means unmindful of the fact that the West 
itself owes much to the East. 

Japan has a civilisation of her own, with which Europe 
can often claim but little sympathy, and the high stan- 
dard to which the nation has attained is the result of a 
careful admixture of Eastern and Western methods. 
Japan will never abandon many of the habits and cus- 
toms to which she has for centuries been so firmly 
attached, for she regards them as superior to those 
which she observes to be in vogue with nations claiming 
to stand higher than herself. 

The alleged conflict between Oriental conservatism 
and Western civilisation can scarcely be said to exist in 



400 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Japan. It may, and probably does, exist in China. But 
Japan makes room for Western civilisation by the side 
of her Oriental civilisation, and binds the two in an 
indissoluble union so complete that even the line of 
junction is well-nigh imperceptible. In her readiness to 
adapt herself to circumstances lies partly the secret of 
Japan's success, but not a little is due to the thorough- 
ness with which she enters into an undertaking, and the 
determination with which she pursues her object to its 
complete fruition. 

Europe has scarcely yet realised the position in which 
Japan and China now stand with regard to each other. 
Whereas in times past the Japanese people were students 
of Chinese literature and science, to an extent which has 
induced China ever since to regard Japan as existing in 
.a state of tutelage, the tables have recently been turned 
in so palpable a manner as to convince China at last 
that the pupil is capable of administering a sharp lesson 
to the master. What will be the result to China, now 
that this conviction has been borne in upon her states- 
men ? Will they recognise the fact that Japan is now 
able to teach them something beneficial ? 

She will open China. I venture to think they 
will. But I believe that Japan will take measures to 
bring about a friendly feeling as promptly as possible, 
on the basis of a common cause against Western aggres- 
sion. China had always had a dread of Russian in- 
vasion, and, in a less degree, Japan had felt anxiety on 
the same score. But China's fear of her neighbours 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 401 

on the northern boundary was never so intense as her 
jealousy of her progressive neighbour and former pupil 
on the east. China indulged the belief that Japan, in 
arming herself as she has done of late years, had a 
desire to settle old scores, and probably the conviction 
was not altogether without foundation. There were a 
good many causes for resentment of which the people of 
Western nations could have little or no conception. 
Chinese intrigue had, for one thing, been very busy in 
Korea. 

Japan will urge Railways on China* And how 
thoroughly imbued with the danger from the eastward 
were the foremost Chinese patriots, as far back as 1881, 
may be comprehended from a study of the memorials 
addressed to the Dragon Throne by the famous trio Liu 
Ming Chu'an, Li Hung Chang, and Tso Tsung Tang. 
It will avail little to quote these in full, but the gist of 
their argument was that as the " situation of the Chinese 
Empire was daily becoming more critical, immediate 
consideration should be given to the question of the 
introduction of railways" by which to augment the 
Imperial power. Japan, it was pointed out, had already 
adopted Western mechanical arts, and her ruler, notwith- 
standing the diminutiveness of his territory, " relies upon 
the possession of railways to behave arrogantly toward 
China." Evidently, in the opinion of this triumvirate, 
the railway system was an indispensable adjunct to suc- 
cess in war, and their views have been verified to the 
letter. Japan had assumed the attitude of a mantis, 

D I) 



402 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

they said, and, like that insect does occasionally, " had 
put on an air of defiance, affecting to despise China, 
and giving no small amount of trouble on the least pre- 
text." 

It was urged that if the years were allowed to pass 
without any steps being taken to strengthen China's 
position, vain indeed would be that repentance which 
might come too late ! 

Poignant must be the regret of the governing body 
of China that the memorials were practically disregarded, 
but great will be the activity which will follow the 
cessation of hostilities, and in no direction will more 
energy be displayed than in the construction of railways, 
for Japan has indisputably proved to China's sorrow 
something which she was half prepared to believe before 
that in railways there is strength. 

They have Something in Common. It may be 
expected that Japan will turn this fact to distinct advan- 
tage, and it is open to her to do so, now that peace has 
been restored, by offering to aid China in the construc- 
tion of these contemplated railways. It is certain that 
an ancient bond unites China and Japan in the shape of 
the written characters common to both countries. A 
Japanese fully comprehends the meaning of Chinese 
ideographs, and can read and write, therefore, with ease 
and fluency. On the other hand, an educated Chinaman 
can understand what his Eastern neighbour may write. 
As a consequence, if it were not for their violent an- 
tagonism, the two peoples would not meet as strangers 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 405 

when visiting in each other's countries, and, indeed, the 
Japanese courts have had a certain jurisdiction over 
Chinamen in Japan all along, and have regarded them 
as on altogether a more familiar footing than Europeans 
for generations past. 

And if the projects of the aged statesman and his col- 
leagues should be carried into effect, they would entail 
not only an immense outlay, but a staff of qualified pro- 
fessional men to survey and supervise the construction, 
such as China does not herself possess, though Japan 
has them in abundance. No fewer than four trunk lines, 
radiating from Peking, were advocated to begin with, 
and these would have to be largely supplemented by 
lines south of the Yang-tsu-Kiang. The scheme em- 
braced lines to connect : 

1. Peking with Chin Kiang via Chihli, Shantung, and 
Kiang-su provinces, a distance of not less than 620 
miles. 

2. Peking with Hankow, through Honan and Hupeh 
provinces, about 670 miles. 

3. Peking and Shing-King (Moukden), about 430 
miles, a large proportion of which, from Tientsin to 
Shanhai Kwan, is already in existence and in full work. 

4. Peking and Kansu vid Shansi and Shensi, about 
900 miles. 

Profltn to Pny Indemnity. The profits to be de- 
rived from the railways would go far to pay to Japan 
the indemnity which she now exacts, and it may not 
improbably be found that the proposed arrangement 



406 ADVANCE JAPAN, 

whereby payment is to be distributed over a lengthy 
term of years is contingent upon the bonds being issued 
on the security of railway earnings, and the employment 
by China of Japanese engineering skill in the con- 
struction of lines. 

Li Hung Chang's contention has always been that 
these profits would suffice to maintain an efficient 
Army. He wished to see the various provinces united 
by railways, so that each might furnish its quota of 
men to the Imperial standard without the fatal loss of 
time which has hitherto destroyed China's chances 
of successfully coping with an invasion. Had there 
been such means of rapid transport and concentration 
of forces upon a threatened district, one soldier, in 
Liu Ming Chu'an's opinion, would have been worth ten 
under the conditions which actually prevailed at the out- 
break of the last war, and his estimate may not have 
been overdrawn. 

But regrets are useless, and China has now to face the 
problem of paying the indemnity and strengthening her 
resources to meet the demands of the future. By the 
establishment of railways she will develop her mines to 
bring into the market the coal and iron which she un- 
doubtedly possesses. She will be able to transport the 
grain tribute to the Capital without the expense and 
delay entailed by shipment in coasting steamers. 

Li Hung Chang's advocacy of railways is safe, sooner 
or later, to bear fruit, and it is by their means that China 
will be rescued from her present unenviable position. 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 407 

He set forth the advantages in detail 14 years ago, 
and pointed out that it would be necessary to raise 
money abroad to build the lines, though he insisted 
that it should be a railway loan, altogether independent 
of the security of the Maritime Customs for its repay- 
ment. Japan can step into the breach, and under terms 
to be arranged, can assist in the establishment of the one 
thing needful to develop the resources of the Celestial 
Empire. Her railway engineers have gained experience 
in their own country which will fit them to act in China 
as technical efficers ; and there is reason to think that 
their offer of service, when backed by the prestige 
their Government has acquired by its undeniable sue-- 
cess, would find more favour in Chinese eyes than would 
an offer from Europeans at this juncture. 

Japaneae Drill-Sergeants for China* The cause 
of the former antagonism China's patronising attitude, 
and altogether gratuitous affectation of displeasure at 
Japan's progress has been removed. The canker has 
been expelled by cauterisation, and the wound will heal, 
possibly, without leaving more than a trifling scar. If 
this prediction should be verified there is little or nothing 
to prevent China accepting Japan's good offices to aid in 
the establishment of those very agents which have made 
Japan so strong. The rough material is not lacking in 
China to form a defensive army of two millions within 
a twelvemonth, if competent drill-sergeants and execu- 
tive officers were procurable. Who so qualified by their 
course of education, knowledge of the written language, 



408 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

and experience in warfare with foreign weapons to in- 
struct and drill a Chinese force as the men who have just 
been arrayed against them? 

No one who has seen Japanese troops undergoing drill, 
and has followed the records of their campaign in Korea 
and Manchuria, can doubt the substantial efficiency of 
the training. No one doubts that the main source of the 
weakness of the Chinese armies as at present constituted 
is the incompetency of the commissioned and non-com- 
missioned officers. 

It is even'open to Japan to enter into an arrangement 
with China by which the united forces of the two nations 
may make common cause against an invader. She may 
send to China a military and a naval " Mission," just as 
similar missions were provided at Japan's request by 
France and Great Britain to organise the nuclei of the 
existing forces of Japan. Her ancient enemy, but new 
ally, may thus be strengthened to resist encroachments 
from the direction of Siberia, for Japan's fleet, and the 
associated land forces of Japan and China, all combined, 
would, to use a familiar term, require a lot of beating. 

Japan can Supply Arms. The project of an 
alliance between the two Powers of the Far East is 
not so difficult of accomplishment, or so remote, per- 
haps, as might be imagined. Japan is certain to secure 
for herself a market for her industrial products, notably 
in manufactured cottons, in the Flowery Kingdom, to 
the partial or complete exclusion of Lancashire and 
India. She can provide China not only with goods of 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 411 

this class, but with rifles, and every appliance, including 
field-guns, for the ultimate equipment of a vast army. 
She can take payment in bonds which will make China 
her debtor, instead of China having recourse to foreign 
bankers. Japan can be the lever to set the Chinese 
mass in motion, but her influence will tend towards the 
consolidation of the Chinese Empire, rather than to its 
disintegration. 

She will have a large Market in China* Japan 
has very considerably enlarged her boundaries already, 
and the universal recognition of her standing, as an 
Eastern Power to be reckoned with, must speedily 




THE CRUISER " SUMA " (BUILT IN JAPAN). 

follow. She has wrested from her neighbour the out- 
lying islands of Formosa and the Pescadores, and has 
secured the independence of the Kingdom of Korea. 
These are achievements directly ascribable to the pro- 
gress she has made as a naval and military Power on the 
flank of Asia, and one need not peer far into futurity to 
find the King of Korea owning allegiance to the Mika- 
do instead of to the Empire of China. The enterprise 
of the Japanese nation is not to be confined to mere 



412 



ADVANCE JAPAN. 



territorial extension, however, for she will endeavour, 
beyond doubt, to constitute in the Middle Kingdom as 
well as in Korea a gigantic market for her wares. Much 
has already been done to stimulate local manufactures 
in the central provinces of Japan by the introduction 
of improved machinery. This is particularly noticeable 
in the case of textile fabrics, and the output can be 
increased almost indefinitely. Cotton can be grown all 




THE CRUISER "HASHIDATE" (BUILT AT YOKOSUKA). 

over the south of Japan, and the production might be 
multiplied tenfold if a market were open to it. As 
matters stand, the crop is limited to the national require- 
ments, but the present standard of cultivation affords 
no index to the capacity of the cotton lands. In the 
peace negotiations carried on between the plenipoten- 
tiaries the opportunity has not been lost sight of, we may 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 413 

be sure, to make arrangements whereby the imports 
from Japan, at certain of the ports presently to be 
opened, will command such attention in China as will 
warrant the Japanese manufacturers in embarking upon 
an extensive and highly lucrative trade. The looms of 
Osaka, and other towns where textile industries are 
carried on, will be largely engaged in the near future in 
supplying that immense Chinese market to which Japan 
now holds the key. 

Japan will V'se her Power Wisely. China, in 
other words, is at the mercy of her conqueror, but as the 
Mikado's principles incline him towards those peaceful 
triumphs which are to be wrought by the development 
of his people's commerce, rather than to territorial 
aggrandisements terms are such as pave the way to 
improved relations of a material character between the 
two Empires. Hitherto the most sturdy opposition has 
been offered to Li Hung Chang's schemes by the 
Tsung-li Ya-men, mainly, as it would seem, on account 
of that blind belief which the bulk of Chinese statesmen 
entertained in the invulnerability of their Empire. Japan 
has disabused them of this impression, and has relent- 
lessly pushed her advantage to an extent which has 
left the ultra-conservative party at Peking not a vestige 
of excuse for longer ignoring the real facts. Other 
foreign Powers have at various times had occasion to 
chastise China, but not one of them has gone the length 
which Japan has done, and the impression produced has 
been of comparatively transient character. As Liu Ming 



414 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

Chu'an candidly observed, in regard to Russian aggres- 
sion, " China has been content to yield to demands, and 
make compromises, regardless of money, to avert the 
dangers of war." As soon as the monetary difficulty 
has been surmounted, China's confidence has returned, 
and she has invariably relapsed into her old condition 
of haughty indifference to the world's progress. 

Japan Fought China in Earnest. But in Japan 
she found herself confronted by an enemy whose ad- 
vances could not be stalled off in this simple fashion. 
Japan had determined to make an impression on China 
which should be lasting, for her own sake, for it has 
been a source of perpetual anxiety to her that the 
representatives of the Celestial Empire have chosen to 
foment discord on her borders. So long as the Chinese 
Government was allowed to treat Japan with super- 
cilious contempt, the Cabinet of Tokio could not hope 
to preserve peace and contentment within the Mikado's 
Empire. The Samurai spirit brooks no insult, and for 
the last two decades the internal difficulties which 
have beset the Government of Japan have been due 
more or less directly to the action of China. The 
Saga insurrection in 1874, and the Satsuma rebellion in 
1877, both arose to a certain extent from the unwilling- 
ness of the Tokio Government to be drawn into a 
squabble with China at the bidding of the southern 
clans, and China's arrogance and intrigue continued to 
emphasise that very trouble in Korea which was at the 
bottom of the whole affair. The Samurai clamoured to 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 417 

bs allowed to avenge the insults levelled at their 
nation, and chafed under restraint to a degree which 
culminated in internal disorder, but it was China's be- 
haviour which fanned the flame, and so long as the 
Mikado's Government was harassed by external diffi- 
culties of this description true prosperity could not be 
looked for. 

Japan will now make -Mil more Rapid Pro- 
sreBg* The cause of this obstacle to Japan's material 
progress has now been eliminated, and she may con- 
fidently look forward to an era of unfettered advance- 
ment. Knowing what she has accomplished under 
conditions far from being the most favourable, we are 
justified in looking forward to evidence of even more 
rapid development within the remaining years of the 
present century. Hitherto all that she has done has 
been of a character to enable her to take the field in 
competition with other nations. She has educated her 
sons during circumstances of no little adversity, and 
they have now attained an age when they may repay 
to some extent the loving care she has bestowed 
upon them. They will go out into the world and 
give proof of the soundness and thoroughness of their 
training. 

To Japan will belong the credit of having aroused 
China to a sense of her inability to withstand invasion, 
and of the paramount necessity of taking measures to 
protect herself for the future. What form those meas- 
ures will take is not so clear, though it is reasonable 

E E 



418 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

to suppose that extensive engineering works will be 
undertaken in connection with coast defence. If China 
has learned one lesson from the war, it is that her men 
can hold out fairly well when placed within fortified 
positions. The forts of Liu-Kung-tao, at Wei-hai-Wei, 
made the best stand in the whole struggle. It is no 
new thing to find the rank and file of the Chinese 
Army fight with some approach to determination under 
such conditions, though they are useless in the open. 
With good training and skilled leadership they might 
prove efficient for defence, and it is possible that China 
has by this time realised that her rdle should strictly be 
defence and not defiance. 

Japan will Introduce Mechanical V i i-. To 
Japan will equally belong the opportunity of introduc- 
ing mechanical arts on a greater scale than anything 
hitherto attempted. Chinamen are nothing if not prac- 
tical, and now that they know what can be accomplished 
with weapons which they have only disdainfully regarded 
hitherto, they are as likely as not to apply themselves to 
a diligent study of the causes which have led to their 
discomfiture. All that Europe and America have been 
privileged to accomplish in China hitherto amounts to 
very little when the immense size of the country and 
vast population are taken into consideration. Civilisa- 
tion has penetrated no further than the threshold as yet, 
and it will need great pressure from without to open 
wide the still half-closed door. But Japan is apply- 
ing that pressure, and will be the first to enter freely. 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 419 

The Western Powers have lost ground, it is to be 
feared, with both the combatants in the war now at its 
close. China owes nothing to the good offices of any 
particular nation, and has to thank the Emperor of 
Japan for moderation, rather than to acknowledge 
indebtedness to any foreign Power for bringing the 
conflict to an end. China is not unlikely to feel 
aggrieved, indeed, that her plea for intervention was 
so lightly regarded by her former friends, and that 
feeling may induce her to look with favour upon any 
advances towards a better understanding, for the time 
to come, which Japan may think fit to make. After all, 
Japan understands how to deal with China better than 
any other nation does, for she has not a few things in 
common with her big neighbour. On the other hand, 
the Japanese people were prone to look upon even the 
suggestion of interference by Western Powers in the 
affair as altogether ill-timed and unwarrantable. The 
effort, had it really been made, would have been vigor- 
ously resented, for it was felt in Japan that Occidental 
commentators often attributed motives to the Mikado's 
Ministers which were far from being justified by the 
facts, and very frequently misrepresented historical 
events. That this was done purposely was not for a 
moment asserted, though the irritation in the Japanese 
mind was not less difficult to allay on that account. It 
was well that they were left to fight out their quarrel 
with China undisturbed. It would have been more 
agreeable to Japan if even the allusion to intervention 

K i: 2 



420 ADVANCE JAPAN. 

had never been put forward. A risk was run of wound- 
ing the susceptibilities of a rising nation, with but the 
faintest prospect of the suggestion, however well-meant, 
meeting with success. 

In the matter of the armistice, Japan again showed 
that she knew how to deal with the authorities at Peking. 
No loophole was left by which they could escape the just 
consequences of the national defeat. Either they must 
come to terms within three weeks, or submit to an occu- 
pation of their Capital, the hostilities in the south in the 
meantime to be prosecuted as fiercely as ever. Total 
cessation of the combat would have afforded China time 
partially to recover, and Japan would have had to com- 
mence her labours anew. China would have employed 
the interval solely in bringing up fresh troops from a 
distance, and at the end of the time would have showed 
front once more. Mistaken kindness at this crisis would 
have prolonged the contest indefinitely and disastrously, 
for Japan's resources are not illimitable, either in money 
or men. 

Japan wan Resolutely in Earnest. The con- 
spicuous features of the campaign have been the 
thoroughly-in-earnest fashion in which Japan set about 
her rival, the determination to leave nothing to chance, 
to listen to no plea for breathing-space to spare no 
effort to thrash' her enemy within an inch of her life. 
Half-measures were known to be of no effect with China. 
Japan took the risk of meeting with a reverse, and of 
coming out of the conflict with consequences which would 



THE FUTURE OF JAPAN. 



421 



have been fatal to herself. But those who knew how 
well Japan was prepared, knew how infinitesimal was the 
risk. All the world knows it now, and will be prepared 
to accept the statement that she will continue to advance 
to power and influence in the same resolute, irresistible 
way. 




423 



APPENDIX I. 
The Tokaido Route. 



Miles 
from the 
Capital. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 


18 


Yokohama 


1 43 ,7 54 




55 


Odawara 


22,000 


Ancient seat of Government, 






thirteenth century. 


70 


Miyanoshita ... 4,000 


Natural sulphur springs. 


72 


Hakone" ... 3,ooo 


Mountain Pass 3,500 feet 






above sea level. 


75 


Atami 3,ooo 


Natural springs. Sea bath- 








ing. 


80 


Mishima 


15,000 




120 


Shidzuoka 


36,343 


Seat of former Shogun. 


I6 7 


Hamamatsu 


25,000 


Extensive general trade. 


IQI 


Toyohashi or 








Yoshida 


18,000 


Large junk trade. 


209 


Okazaki 


2I,OOO 


Crape and cotton goods. 


233 


Nagoya... 


185,776 


Pottery, silk, and general 






large trade. 


252 


Gifu j 32,406 


Crape and silk fabrics. 


287 


Hikone ... 17,000 


Old Castle Town. 


318 


Otsu 3i>279 


Mart for lake-borne mer- 




chandise. 


330 


Kioto 308,266 Porcelain, lacquer, and other 




specialities. Former seat 






of Imperial Government. 


252 


Osaka ... 


479,546 : The Manchester of Japan. 




Greatest trade. 


376 Kobe* 


148,625 


Foreign Treaty Port, with 






extensive trade. 



424 



APPENDIX II. 
I li Ko-Mhiu Kai-do Route* 



Miles 






Remarks. 


from the 

Capital. 


Town. 


Population. 


24 


Hachioji 


8,000 


Silk. 




53 


Sarubashi 


3,000 


Curious cantilever bridge. 


82 


Kofu 


33,408 


Silk. 


Claret. 



The IVakasendo Route (C'entral Mountain 
Road). 



Miles 
from 
Tokio. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 


8l 


Yokokawa 


2,OOO 


Reached by railway from 








the Capital. 


8? 


Karuisawa ... 1,500 


Summer retreat near Asama 






Mountain. 


140 


Shimo-no-Suwa 3,000 


On Lake Suwa. Hot mine- 






ral springs. 


164 


Narai ... 


2,400 


Near ancient battle - field, 








sixteenth century. 


I 7 8 


Fukushima 


7,000 


Magnificent mountain scen- 








ery. 


236 


Ota 


3,000 


On river Kiso. 


251 


Gifu 


32,406 


Silk fabrics (Gifu chirimen). 



Here join Tokaido. 

The Nakasendo is justly celebrated for its natural beauty ; the 
road surmounts pass after pass, amid the finest scenery of the 
Japanese islands. 



425 



APPENDIX III. 
The Sanyodo Route* 



Distance 
(Eng. Miles) 
from 
Kobe". I Tokio. 


Town. 


Population . 


Rema rks. 





376 


Kobe" 


148,625 


Foreign Treaty Port. 


35 


411 


Himeji 


28,000 Leather wall papers. Sil- 








ver mines at Ikuno, 25 








miles distant. 


86 


462 


Okayama 


50,114 Extensive rice-growing dis- 








trict. 


84 
134 
132 


460 
510 
508 


Ushimado ... 
Onomichi 
Tomotsu 


9i Prosperous grain ports on 
17000 ) the Inland Sea - 


173 


549 


Hiroshima ... 


90,901 


Recent Army Headquar- 








ters, Chinese War. 


174 


550 


Kure 


7,000 Naval Station. 


204 


580 


Iwakuni 


12,000 Famous bridge of Kintai- 








bashi. 


242 


618 


Mitajiri 


17,500 


Thriving sea-port in Suwo. 


280 


656 


Shimonoseki 


33,000 


Principal grain port of the 










South. 



This road for the greater part of its length borders the " Inland 
Sea." 



426 



APPENDIX IV. 
The San-iii-do Route. 



Miles 
from 
Kioto. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 





Kioto 


308,266 


Ancient capital. 


40 


Fukuchiyama ... 


8,OOO 


Inland town ; agricultural 








produce. Noteworthy old 








castle. 


57 


Miyadzu 


I4,OOO 


Rising sea-port. Steamers 








to Shimonoseki. Grain 








and dried fish. 


72 


Toyooka 


17,000 


Chief town of Tajima. 


99 


Tottori ... 


25,000 


Close to sea ; extensive 








trade in silk and cotton. 


,56 


Yonago... 


14,500 


Port for Oki Islands. 


168 
169 


Matsuye 
Sakai 


45,526 
46,566 


^Thriving sea-port of west 
coast. Much paper manu- 
(. factured. 


236 


Hamada 


19,000 


Chief town of Iwami. 


298 


Yamaguchi 


19,000 


Sulphur springs. 


334 


Shimonoseki ... 


33,000 


Joins Sanyodo route near 






Yamaguchi. 



This road for the most part borders the Sea of Japan. 



427 



APPENDIX V. 
The ToMando (Omhiu-Ivai-do)* 



Miles 
from 
the 
Capital. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 


65 


Utsu-no-miya ... 


33,334 


Ancient castle. Chief town 








of Tochigi Ken. 


114 


Shirak a 


24,50 


Seat of War in 1868. Silk. 








On fine river Abukuma. 


154 


Nihonmatsu ... 


16,500 


Large silk trade. 


1 68 


Fukushima 


29,000 


Exports of raw silk and 








silkworms' eggs. Thriv- 








ing town. 


217 


Sendai 


70,558 


Large prosperous town. 








Grand old castle. 


272 


Ichinoseki 


12,000 Near sea-port of Kozenji. 


329 


Morioka 


32,044 


Iron ore. Spun-silk goods. 








Excellent fruits. 


372 


Ichinohe" 


13,000 




445 


Aomori 


28,400 


Large well-built town. Lac- 








quer ware. Extensive 








salmon fisheries. 



A good road branches off" at Sendai to Akita on the north-west 
coast, about 160 miles, practicable throughout fat jin-riki-sha, 

At Ishinomaki, near Sendai, shipbuilding is a prominent feature 
of the trade, and there are slate-quarries. Steamers call. 



428 



APPENDIX VI. 
\:m- K :ii-li (iHland of Mhiltoku). 



Distance. 

English 
Miles. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 





Matsuyama 


34,76 


Sea-port in lyo, on Inland 
Sea 


58 


Kochi 


34,533 


Steamer from Kobe" : 15 
hours' passage. Thriving 
city. Fine public build- 


52 


Uwajima 


21,000 


ings. 
Paper. Noted sardine fish- 








eries. 


27 


Matsuyama to 
Nagahama 

Kochi to 


13,000 


Port on Inland Sea, mouth 
of River Hiji 


H3 

8? 
70 


Tokushima 

Takamatsu 
Marugame 


62,218 

35,594 
17,000 


On fine river Yoshino. 
Largest town in Island. 
Grain exports. 
Busy port on Inland Sea. 



The neighbourhood of the rapids of the River Yoshino affords 
splendid views. 

In Tosa province t\vo crops of rice are grown annually. 



429 



APPENDIX VII. 
Nai-Kai-do (Island of Kiusniu). 



English 
Miles. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 





Moji 


11,000 


Opposite Shimonoseki. 








Large export of coal. 


7 


Kokura... 


13,000 


Ancient stronghold of his- 








torical interest. 


48 


Hakata 


56,003 


Also called Fukuoka ; di- 








vided by river only. 


70 


Kurume 


26,OOO 


Castle. Agricultural town. 


105 


Takase 


19,000 


Battle-field of 1877. 


121 Kumamoto 


59,089 


Ancient castle, besieged in 






1877. 


140 ; Misumi 


8,000 


Rising port. Large coal 






exports. 


147 


Yatsushiro 


17,000 


Busy sea-port. 


254 


Kagoshima 


55,812 


Porcelain. Cloth. Ancient 








fortress. 




Kokura to 






33 


Nakatsu 


12,750 


Busy port on Inland Sea. 


80 Oita 


30,100 


Thriving sea-port ; trades 








to Kobe, Osaka, etc. Hot 








springs near. 


'37 


Nobeoka 


27,500 


Large town on river Gokase*. 


196 


Miyazaki 


19,000 






Kurume to 






17 


Saga 


29,600 


Cireat rice-producing dis- 








trict. Splendid castle. 


9' 


Nagasaki 


63,038 


Treaty Port. Ancient Dutch 






Settlement. 



430 



APPENDIX VIII. 
Hokkaido (Inland i Yeao). 



English 
Miles. 


Town. 


Population. 


Remarks. 





Hakodate 


53,000 


Treaty Port. Considerable 








general trade. 


67 


Fukuyama 


23,000 


Formerly Matsumaye. An- 








cient castle town. 


217 


Sapporo 








(Capital) 


12,500 


Around Volcano Bay. 


2 3 6 


Poronai... 


9,500 


Coal mines. Daily output, 








900 tons. 


239 


Otarunai 








(Temiya) 


26,000 


Great herring fisher)'. 





Kushiro 


13,000 


Steamer from Hakodate". 








Coal and sulphur exports. 


16 


Shibetcha 


2,500 


Railway to Iwo-San (Sul- 








phur Mountain), whence 








large quantities of pure 








sulphur are exported. 


42 


Akkeshi 


8,500 


Thriving Port. Great oyster 








reefs. 


79 


Nemuro 


I I,OOO 


Agricultural College. 



At Kushiro are many relics of the Stone Age. 



4.11 



APPENDIX IX. 

Population. 

Contrary to general belief, Japan has many centenarians, as the 
following table, compiled from the official census taken 3ist 
December, 1893, will show. 

The entire population consists of: 

Males 20,752,366 

Females ... ... 20,337,574 

Total ... 41,089,940 

Of whom... 4,892,415 were under 5 years. 

... 4,413,215 were between 5 and 10 



4,396,477 


IO 


'5 


4,077,702 


15 ,, 


20 


6,340,779 


20 


3 


5,400,230 


30 


40 


4,779,647 


40 


5o 


3,183,270 


50 


60 


2,350,755 


60 


70 


1,028,823 


70 


80 


216,271 


80 


90 


7,723 


90 


100 


72 


100 


104 


10 


104 


1 08 



2,551 ages were uncertain. 

One female and one male have attained the patriarchal age of 
108 years. 



432 



APPENDIX X. 

Trade at Port* : 1894. 

The relative value of the Trade conducted at the following ports 
of the Japanese Empire, only the first six of which are yet open to 
Foreign Commerce as " Treaty Ports," may not be without interest 
in consideration of the new compact entered into last year. At 
present Exchange rates the yen about equals one florin. 



Part. 


Total Value of 
Exports and Imports, 
in Silver Yen. 


Total Customs 
Dues Collected, 
in Silver Yen. 


M , Yokohama 
I Kobe-Hiogo... 
SH 1 Osaka 
'; Nagasaki 
j5 / Hakodate 
H Niigata 
Shimonoseki 
Moji .. 


123,463,049 
86,348,616 

4,779,180 
8,972,458 
723,893 
44,367 
2,780,167 
I.4I7.QS8 


3,397,885 
2,111,969 
108,419 
185,879 
39,158 
2,511 
18,542 
6.4O s 


Hakata 


IQ OSQ 


218 


Karatsu 


252,842 


9IO 


Kuchi-no-tsu 
Misumi 


1,568,051 
22.l87 


4,172 

ce 


Idzugahara ... 


44 CQ2 


1,072 


Shishimi 


I 6.O43 


4 16 


Sasuna 


12 668 


^l J. 


Fushiki 


28.o;8 


I, ^60 


Mororan 


28,627 


05 


Otaru 


2O!?.7O2 


1,607 









Last year the Total Value of Japanese Produce 

and Manufactures Exported amounted to ... 112,171,175 Yen. 
Of Foreign Produce Exported (to Korea, &c.) 1,074,910 



The Total Value of Foreign Produce and Manu- 
factures Imported amounted to 



113,246,085 Yen. 



117,371,361 Yen. 



Of Japanese Produce Imported (from Korea, c.) 1 10,594 

117,481,955 Yen. 



433 



APPENDIX XI. 

Meteorological Observations* 

The Japanese Government has established a very complete 
system, under which observations are recorded hourly at 10 sta- 
tions, and every four hours at 38 other stations, storm- warnings 
being telegraphed to the harbours on the coast, and signals 
hoisted for the benefit of mariners. 

The range extends from Naba, in the Loo-Choo Islands, to Cape 
Soya, in the extreme north of Yeso. 

Seven of the stations are in the island of Kiushiu, three in Shi- 
koku, ten in Yeso, one in Tsu-shima, one in the Loo-Choo group, 
and twenty-six on the mainland of Hondo. 

The maximum temperature of the air is observed in July and 
August at Kochi, Osaka, and Kanazawa, being slightly above 35 
Celsius at these places. 

The minimum is of course to be found recorded at the stations 
in Yeso, where 19 Celsius has been met with, even at Hakodate, 
in mid- December. 

At Tokio the extremes were 34 4' on the i6th August and 6 8' 
on the 22nd January