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HANDBOOK

VOR

TRAVELLERS IN SWITZERLAND,
SAVOY, AND PIEDMONT.

*rh0 Editor of the Handbook fot Swit^zbrlanD, 1*iedMon1',
and Savoy, is very solicitous to be favoured with corrections of any
mistakes and omissions which may be discovered by persons who have
made use of the book. Those communications especially will be welcomed
which are founded upon personal knowledge, and accompanied by the
name of the writer to authenticate them. Travellers willing to make such
communications are requested to have the kindness to address them to the
Editor of the Handbook, care of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street.

Caution to Travellers. — By a recent Act of Parliament, the introduction
into England of foreign pirated Editions of the works of British authors, in
which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. Travellers will therefore
bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at
the English Custom-house.

Caution to Innkeepers and others. — The Editor of the Handbooks
has learned from yarious quarters that a person or persons haye of late been
extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Con-
tinent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices of
them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The Editor
therefore thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recommenda-
tions in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the
persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown
to him. All those, therefore, who put coniidence in such promises, may rest
assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their
object. — 1851.

*^* Certificates in pl^ise of Inns must be signed by respectable and
Well-known persons. No attention can be paid to letters from Hotel-
keepers in praise of their own inns ; no letters received unless pre-paid.

LONDON : F&lKtED BY WILLIAM CLOWES & SONS, STAMFORD STKEET,

AND CHARING CROSS.

HANDBOOK

1IY>R

TBAVELLERS IN SWITZERLAM),

AND THE

ALPS OF SAYOY AND PIEDMONT.

COBBSCTJEBD ; WITH TBAYELLINa MAPS, FLANS OF TOWNS, ETC.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET;

PARIS: A. ft W. GAUGNANI & CO.; STASSIN & XAVIEtl.

1867. ^.-.

•fff.. ...*-!.« »r lu.^^r7^f,'MKk •*• v/tr^t^vMuf

THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MTTBRAY's HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THfi

FOLLOWING AGENTS : —

Germany^ HcUand, and Belgium,

AIX.LA. 1

CHAPBLLE f
AMSTERDAM .
ANTWERP
BADEN-BADEN
BERLIN .
BRUSSELS

CARL8RUHB .

COBLENTZ .
COLOGNE.

DRESDEN .

FRANKFURT .
ORATZ . •
THE HAGUE .
HAMBURG .
HEIDELBERG .

BASLE •
BERNE .
COIRE
CONSTANCE
GENEVA .

LAUSANNE

BOLOGNA
FLORENCE .
GENOA .

LEGHORN
LUCCA .
MANTUA .
MILAN .

MODENA • .
NAPLES .
PALERMO

AMIENS • .
ANGERS .
AVIGNON
AVRANCHES .
BAYONNE

BORDEAUX .

BOULOGNE .
BREST .
CAEN • •

CALAIS .
CHERBOURG .
DIEPPE .
DINANT .
DOUAI .
DUNKERQUE .
GRENOBLE .
HAVRE . .

LILLE •
LYONS .

MARSEILLES .
METZ • •

GIBRALTAR .
LISBON .

I. A. MAYER.

J. MULLER.— W. KIRBERGER.

MAX. KORNICKBR.

D. R. MARX.

ASHER

MUQUARDT.— KIES8LING

ft CO.
A. BIELEFELD.
BAEDBKER.
GUeVEN.~NELTE A CO.
ARNOLD.

C. JUGEL.

LEUSCHNER ft LUBENSKY.

NIJHOFF ft CO.

MAUKE, SOHNE.
MOHR.

KISSINGEN •
LEIPZIG .
LUXEMBOURG
MANNHEIM

MAYENCE
MUNICH .

NURNBERG .
PEST •

PRAGUE .
ROTTERDAM .
STUTTGART •
TRIESTE . .
VIENNA . •
WIESBADEN •

C. JUGEL.

br0ckhau8.— durr.
bDck.

ARTARTA ft FONTAINE.—

LOFFLER.— KOTTER.
VON ZABERN.
LITERARISCH.— ARTI8TISCHE.

— ANSTALT.— L PALM.
8CHRAO.— ZEISER.
HARTLEBEN^G.HECKENAET .

— OSTERLAMM.— RATH.
CALVE.

KRAMERS.— PETRI,
P. NEFF.

MONSTER.— OOEN.
C. GEROLD.— BRAUtfijLLEE.
KREIDEL.

Switzerland,

H. GEORG.— H. AMBERGER.

DALP.-JEUT ft REINERT.

GRUBENMANN.

MECK.

H. GEORG.— DESROGIS.-
CHERBULIEZ.-GEX.—
MONROE.— GHISLETTY.

MARTINIER ft CHAVANNES.—
T. ROUSSY.

LUCERNE. • F. KAISER.
NEUCHATEL . GERSTER.
SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER.

80LEURE.
ST. GALLEN
Zi^BICH .

M. RUSCONI.

GOODBAN.

GRANDONA ft CO.-ANTOINB

BEUF.— T. D. B06SL
MAZZAJOLL
F. BARON.
NEGRETTI;
ARTARIA. — DUMOLARD

FR^RES.— MOLINARI.
VINCENZI ft ROSSI.
DORANT. -DUFRESNE.
PEDONE.

Italy,

PARMA .

PISA . .
PERUGIA.
ROME

SIENA •
TURIN .

VENICE .
VERONA .

France,

CARON.
BARASSE'.

CLE'MENT ST. JUST.
ANFRAY.
JAYMEBON.— LA8SERRE.

CHAUMAS«— MOLLER.— SAU«

VAT.— FERET.
WATEL.— MERRIDEW.
HEBERT.
BOISARD. — LE60ST. — CLE-

RISSE'.
RIGAUX CAUX.
Mllb. LEOOUFFLET.
MARAIS.

COSTS. ^

JACQUART.— LEMALE.
VANDENBU8SCHE.
VELLOT ET COMP.
COCH ARD.— BOURDIGNON.—

FOUCHER.— Mmi. BUYS.
BE>GHIN.
AYNE' FIL8.— SCHEURING.—

ME'RA.

CAMOIN FfiERES.- LE

MEUNIEE.
WARION.

MONTPELLIER
MULH0U8E .
NANCY . .
NANTES .

NICB . .

ORLEANS.
PARIS
PAU .

PERPIGNAN .
REIMS .

ROCHEFORT .
ROUEN .
SAUMUR .
ST. ETIENNE .
ST. MALO. .
ST. QUENTIN .
STRASBOURG .

TOULON .
TOULOUSE
TOURS .
TR0YB8 .

B0W8WELL.
MATT. LEWTAS.

Spain and Portugal,

MADRID •
MALAGA .

Ru99i€k,

ST. PETERS. I igsAKOFF.-RCrrrQKR.-WOLFF. I JO^J

BURG. J

Malta, Ionian Islands, Constantinople,

XUIB. CORFU • X.W.TAYLOB, WICK.

JENT.
HUBER.

H. vHmU ft CO.— MEYER

ft ZELLER.
H. F. LEUTHOLD, POST-

8TRASSE.

J. ZANGHIERL
NISTRI.^JOS. VANNUOCHL
VINCENZ. BARTELLI.

SPITHOVER.— PIALE.—

MONALDINI.
ONORATO PORRI.
MAGGI.-GIANNINI FIORE.—

MARIETn.— BOCCA FRERES.

MONSTER. — COEN.—
MEINERS.

H. F. mCNSTER. — MENIERS.

LEVALLE.

RISLER.

60NET.

GUE'RARD.-PETIPAS.-

POIRIER LEGROS.— AN-

DRB'.— Mmb. VLOORS.
VISGONTI.— GIRAUD.—

JOUGLA.
GATINEAU.— PESTY.
GALIGNANI.— XAVIER.-
LAFON.— AUG. BA88Y.
JULIA FRERES.
BBIS8ART BINET^

GEOFFROY.
BOUCARD.

LEBRUMENT.— HAULARD.
GAULTIER BRIB'RE.
DELARUE.
HUE.
DOLOY.
TREUTTEL ET WUKTZ.-

GRUCKER.
MONGE ET VILLAMU8.
GIMET ft OOTELLE.
GEORGET.
LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT.

DURAN.— BAILLIERE.
FR. DE MOYA.

W. GAUTIER — DEUBNER -LAK6«
. CAMOIN FRgRES.

Greece

ATHENS . A.NAST.

P E E F A 0 E.

The Handbook for Switzerland has now reached the twelfth edition^ and
owes its snccess, and the favour of travellers, and the number of imitators
it has found in France and Germany, to the circumstance that its informa-
tion was drawn from practical knowledge of the country, gained on the
spot; and that it was not a mere compilation from other books. The
author, in the first instance by his own travels through the country, and
afterwards by the aid of experienced editors whom he has called in to
revise the book, has endeavoured to bring down the information of every
edition to the time of its appearance, taking note of all changes and
improvements that have occurred.

The Handbook was the first guide which, instead of stopping short
north of the Great Chain, carried travellers down to the more sunny and
beautiful peaks and valleys of the Italian Alps. It still remains tJie only
complete single Guide-book for Savoy and Piedmont, as well as for
Switzerland. These regions, previously a terra incognita to Englishmen,
are now equally resorted to and held in as great repute for the beauty and
grandeur of their scenery.

The routes in the Handbook liave been rearranged, as far as possible, to
suit the convenience of travellers — all changes and improvements in roads,
railways, and steamers have been noticed — and a vast number of new
roads over little-known Alpine Passes have been described in the present
and preceding editions. Plans of the principal towns are added. This
edition is corrected as far as possible up to the time of publication, and
contains notices of the railways which now bring Switzerland almost, as it
were, to our own door.

An Index has been prepared for the Swiss Handbook, independent of
the Section relating to Savoy and Piedmont ; and as each is furnished
with a map, the two parts may be bound up separately for convenience,
without injuring the completeness of either,

*^* *The Knapsack Guide to Switzerland, Savoy, and Piedmont, 2nd
Edition, Corrected, 1867,' furnishes a more portable and succinct Guide to
those countries.

SWITZERLAND.

INTHODUCTORY INFORMATION.

CONTENTS.

10.

11.

12.

§ 13.

§ 14.

§ 16.

§ 17.
§ 18.

§ 19.

Passfobts akd Custom-houses

Routes to Switzerland — Skeleton Toues .

Money

Measures — Distanoes — ^Elegtbio Telbgbaph Ststem .

Modes op Travelling in Switzerland : —

Posting ........

Diligences — ^Luggage

VOITURIER, OR LOHNKUTSOHERr— ChARS-A-BaNO

Railways

Guides — Porters

Horses and Mules — Chaises-X-Porteurs • •

Swiss Inns

Directions for Travellers, and Requisites for a
Journey in Switzerland — Maps — Dangers op
Alpine Travelling — Precautions to be adopted

Objects most deserving op notice in Switzerland
— THE Country and People — Baths

Alpine Passes

Chalets and Pasturages . •

Glaciers

Avalanches — Snow-Storms — ^Floods

GoiTRE AND Cretinism • .

Heights op Mountains, Lakes, and Passes

Pago
xi

• •

Xll

xvi
xvi

xix

xxii
xxiv

XXV

xxvii
xxviii

xxxii

XXX vii

Ixiii

Ixvii

bdx

SWITZERLAND.

CONTENTS OF SECTION L
LIST OF ROUTES.

%* The names of many plaeea are neemmrQY repeated in levenl Reoteat but to IkdUtate
reference* they are printed in holies only fai thoee Routes under vliieh they are fully
described.

BOOTE PAGE

1 Basle to Berne, by the i/iSft-
sUr Thai ( Vol Moutien) and
Bierme {Railway) ... 1

3 Basle to Soleure and Bienne

(Saihoay) — the WeiasmaMn • 9

4 Basle to Lucerne, hj the

Central Sicisa Bailway . • 12

5 Basle to Berne, by Railway . 15

6 Basle to Ziirich, by Railway . 16

7 Basle to Schaffhausen and

Constance — Falls of Rhine
(JtaUwa-y) • . • .19

8 Schaffhausen to Constance

{Railway) — Lake of Constance. 23

9 Schaffhausen to 2rt2rfcA(£A«m-

fall Railway) ... 28

10 ^omona^om to Ziirich (jSat/iMty) 33

12 Ziirich to Berne, by Railway . 33

13 Ziirich to Ragatz, Lakes of

Ziirich and Wallenstadt {Rly.) 34

15 Ziirich to Lucerne and the Rigi,

by Horgen^ Zug, and Immensee 39

16 Zurich to Lucerne^ oyer the

Albis, or by Railway . . 47

17 Lucerne to Schwytz — the Ross^

berg 54

18 The Zake of Lucerne. — Lu-

cerne to Fliielen . . . 60

19 The Pass of the BrOnig.-^

Lucerne to Meyringen or
Brienz 65

20 Samen to Engelberg or Mey-

ringen, by the Mehhthal . 70
22 Lucerne to Berne or Thun,
by the Entlebuoh and the
JEmmenthalf and Langnau
[Sttily>ay) . . . .71

24 Lucerne to Berne, by Rail'

way 72

25 The Bebnesb Oherland. — 77
A Berne to Thim and Interlaken 78
Blnterlaken to Lanxterbrvmnen 82

ROUTE PAOB

c Lauterbrannen to Qrindelwald
— Wengem Alp — Faulhom . 85

D Grindelwald to Reiohenbach or
Meyringen — Great Scheideck • 92

EMeyrineen to Brienz and-
Literlaken — Giesabach Falls , 94

26 Meyringen to Hospenthal —

Passes of the Grimsel and Furca 96

27 Passes leading to or from the

Grimsel: —

A Grindelwald to Grimsel —
Strahleck Pass . • . 101
B QadmentHal to Grimsel . 102
c Grimsel to the j^ggisch*
hoTik-^Oberaarjoch . .103
D To Meyringen, orer the
Lauteraar and Gauli Glaciers . 103

28 Grimsel to Brieg, by Ober^

gestelen — the JEggischhom , 104

31 Stanz to Altorf, by the Sure^

nen— Engelberg— the Titlis 108

32 Susten Pass, from Meyringen

to Wasen . . .109

33 T^tfJocAPcMs, from Meyringen

to £ngelberg . . .111

34 Pass of St. Goihard, from

Fliielenf on the Lake of
Lucerne, to Bellineona , . 112

35 Lauterbnmnen or Miirren to

Kippel, or Kandersteg, by
the Tschingel Glacier . . 123

36 Lauterbrannen to Kandersteg,

by the Seefinen Furke and
Diindengrat . . . .126

37 Pass of the Gemmi, Thun to

the Baths of Leuk (Loeche),
and to Let^ in the Valais . 127

38 Turtman and Kippel to Kan-

dersteg, by the Ldtsch Pass . 133

39 Pass of the Rawyl. — Thun, or

Interlaken, to Sion or Sierre.
The Grimmi, . . . 135

LIST OF ROUTES. SWITZERLAND.

BOUTE PAGE

40 Letili to LaueneUy by the TrUtt-

lisberg — Lauenen to Gsteig,
by the Chrinen . . ,137

41 Pass of the Sanetsch-^SMXien

to Sion . . . .138

42 Thun to Vevay , by the Simmen-

thai, Saaneuy Chdteau cTOex,
and Gruyhres ; Pass of the
Dent de Jaman . . . 139

43 Chateau d'Oex to Aigle or

Bex, by the Val des Ormonds 142

45 Berne to Lausanne (and Ve-

vay), by Freyhurg . . 144

46 Berne to Laasanne, by Morat

and Avenches (Aventioum) . 148

48 Berne to NevShdtel and Lau-

sanne .... 151

49 Bienne to Yverdvn and Lau-

sanne, by the Lakes of Bienne
• and Neuchdtel {Railvoay) . 155

50 Kenchitel to Chaux de Fonds

and Le Lode (^Mail.) . .158

51 Fontarlier (in France) to

Neuchatel, by Travers {Bail.) 160

52 Yyerdun, or Lausanne, to the

Lac de Joux . . . 162

53 Lyons, or Macon, to Geneva

{Railway) . . . .164

55 Geneva to Villenevfoe, by Lau-

sanne, Vevay, and Chilkn,
Lake of Geneva (Railway) . 176

56 Villeneuve to Sum {Railway) , 186

57 Geneva to Martigny, by 7%o-

non and Meillerie, along the
south shore of the Lake of
Geneva . . . .193

58 Bex to Sion, by les Diablerets

and Col de Chioille . . 195

59 Passage of the Simphn — Sion

to Domo d* Ossola • . .198

60 Turtman to the iElggisch-

hom, by the Ldtschsattel • 204

61 Viesch to Crodo in Val Anti-

gorio, by the Binnen Thai . 205
Pass of the Gries — Oberges-
teln to Domo d'Ossola, by
the Val Formazza (Pommat)
and Falls of the Tosa . . 207
63 Pass of the Nufenen (Novena),
from Obergesteln to Airolo . 209

65 Zilrich to Rorschach by Rail'

way^8t.Gall . . .210

66 Borschach to Coire, by Ragatz

{Rail,)-'Baths of Pfeffers . 212

67 Bregenz to Coire, by Vaduz , 220

ROUTE PAGE

68 Borschach or St. Gall to Gats

and Appenzell^ with Excur-
sions to the Weissbadfthe Wild-
kirohlein, and the Hooh Sentis 221

69 St. Gall to Uznach, by ffem-

richshad and Herisau . . 225

71 Wyl to Coire— The Tosr^f^nftwrflf 226

72 W^sen, or Eichterschwyl, to

Schwytz — Einsiedeln — JfcTor-
•garten 227

73 Schwytz to Glarus, by Muotta,

the Pragel Pass, and the
Kl&nthal .... 231

74 Wesen to Glarus and the Baths

of Stachelberg . . . 234

75 Muotta to Stachelberg, by the

Bisithal, or to Altorf, by the
Kinzig Kulm . . . 238

76 Stachelberg to Altorf, by the

Klausen Pass . . . 240

77 Stachelberg to Disentis, by the

Sand Grot . . . .241

78 Stachelberg to Brigels, over

the Kistengrat . . . 242

79 Glarus or Stachelberg to

Beichenau — Richetli anaSeg'
nes Passes .... 243

80 Glarus to Ilanz, by the Pa-

nixer Pass .... 244

82 Coire, up the Valley of the

Vorder-Rhein, to Disentis, and
across the Ober^alp to An-
dermatt .... 246

83 Amsteg to Disentis, by the

Pass of the Kreuzli . . 249

84 Disentis to Airolo, by the

Uomo Pass .... 251

85 Pass of the Lukmanier — Di-

sentis to Olivone, in the Val
Blegno 251

86 Banz to Olivone— the Disrut

and Greina .... 253

87 Coire to Ohiavemta — Via Mala

— Pass of the SplOgen . . 254

88 Andeer to Casaccia, by the

Aversthal, Furcula and 8q>'
timer Passes . . . .262

89 Spltigen to Banz, by the Pass

of the Valserberg, and the
Peter's Thai . . .263

90 Reichenau to Splugen, by the

Samenihai and Pass of the
Lochliberg .... 264

91 Pass of the 5«marrft».— Splii-

gen to fieilinzfma, , , 264

LIST OF BOUTES, THE ALPS OF SAVOT AND PIEDMONT.

aOOTB PAGE

92 Pass of the Jviiery from Coire

to Samaden . . • • 267

93 Coire to Samaden in the En-

gadine, bj Weissenstein and
the Albuia Pass . . .270

94 Chiayenna to Samaden, by the

Vol Bregaglia and the Pass
of the Maloggia or Maloja . 271

95 The JEw^adrntf. — Samaden to

Naudere and the Pass of
Finstermunx • • • 273

96 Pass of the Bemma, from

BODTB PAa£

Samaden in the Engadine,
by Pontresina, to Tirano in
the Yalteline . . .276

98 The Prdttigau ; Coire or Ba-
gatz to SiisSf in the Enga-
dine 281

99 Coire to 2>awM-P^ and JTibs-
^tfrs— -Pass of the Strek . 282

100 Plaz to Stiss, by the Fhtela
Pass 283

101 Bludenz to the Pr&tigau, by
the Schweizerthor Pass

Index to Switzerland

284
285

SECTION n.

THE ALPS OF SAVOY AND PIEDMONT,

PSEUHINABT INFORMATION.— Page 299*

Skeleton Tours.— Page 304.

ROUTE PAGE

111 Domo d'Ossola to Arona —

Logo Maggiore • . •

112 Domo d'O^sola to Locarno,

by VcU Vegezzo .

113 Bellinzona to Locarno and

Magadino ....

114 Bellmzona to Lugano and

Como, by Monte Cenere

115 Baveno to Lake of ComOj by

Lwmo and Lake of Lugano .

116 Chiayenna to Lecco •

117 Arona to Varallo .

118 Bayeno to Varallo, by Lake

of Orta or by VcU Stroma .

119 Varallo to Ahgna-^Val Sesia

121 Vogogna to Macugnaga — Vol

Anzasca «...

122 Macugnaga to Visp, by

Monte Moro and Saas .

123 Varallo to Val Anzasca, by

the Val MastahnSf or by
Val Sermenta • . .

124 Haoognag^ to Qressonay, by

the Turlo and Col d'Ollen,
or by the Col di Val Dob-
bia 339

125 Gressonay to Ch&tillon, by

the Col deHanzokif or by the
BettaFwca . . .345

307

311

312

314

316
321
323

326
329

330

334

338

ROUTE PAQE

127 Visp to 2ermatt-~Biffen>erg

— Glacier Excursions •

128 Zermatt to ChdtUhn or Gres-

sonay—iS^*. Theodvie Pass .

129 St Nicholas to Evolena, by

the ISirtman Thai and the
Einfisoh Thai

131 Aostato Eyolena and Slon,

\}jihfiColde CoUon .

132 Eyolena to Zermatt, by the

Cold'Erin ,

134 Turin to Aosta and Cour^

mayeuTy by Ivrea — Biella, —
ne Val cT Aosta

135 Martigny to Aosta. — Pass of

the Great £ft, Bernard .

136 Martigny to Aosta, by the

Vcd de BagneSf the Col des
Fenitres^ and Val Pellina .

137 Martigny to Conrmayeur .
A by the Col de Ferrex .
B by the Col de la Fenitre .
c by the Col de Serena .

138 Geneyato Chamouni

139 Chamouni to Courmayeur,

by the Col du BonhoTnme and
the Col de la Seigne
141 Chamouni to Auirtigny, by
the Tite Mire .

a 3

346
356

358

363

364

366
376

383
388
388
389
389
390

405
410

LIST OF ROUTES, THE ALPS OP SAVOY AND PIEDMONT,

EOUTB PAGE

142 Martigny to Chamouni, by

the Col de Balme . • 412

143 Servoz to Geneva, by 8%xt —

i^eBuet .... 414

144 Sixt to Monthey—Vdl ctllliez 416

146 Aosta to Ponte in ValcTOrca,

by Cogne and Val Soanna • 41 7

147 Ponte to Villeneiwef by the

Val Savaranche • . . 422

148 Aosta to Bourg Si, Maurice, in

the Tarentaise, by the Val
Qrisanche and Col du Mont . 425

149 Courmayeur to Boure St.

Maurice, by the Little St.
Bernard— tike Belvedere . 428

150 Sallenches to VHopital Con-

flans (^AlhertvUle), by Ugine
and Beaufort • • . 430

151 Geneva to Chambery, by

Aix les Patn8(rail) . . 432

152 Geneva to Aiguehelle, on the

Mont Cenis road, by Annecy 435

153 Lyons to Chambery, by Les

Echelles or Aiguebeltette • 438

154 Chambery to Turin — Mont

Cenis. i^atY to St. Michel .442

155 Mont Cenis to Susa, by the

Little Mont Cenis and the
Col de Clairee . • .446

156 Chambery to Lanslebourg,

by itte Tarentaise — Col
disdran — Col de la Leisse • 449

ROUTE PAGK

157 Moutiers Tarentaise to Lans*

lebourg,by the Colde Vanoise 45<4

158 St. Jean de Maurienne to

Bourg d'Oysans, by the Col
(fArves, and Col du Pr4
Nouveau . • . • 456

159 Grenoble to Briangon, by

Botirg cPOysans and the Col

de Lawtaret • . . 457

160 Brian9on to Susa, by the

Pass of the Mont Genewe . 460

161 Briangon to Pignerol, by the

Col de Sestrieres . . . 462

162 Pignerol to Mont Dauphin,

by the Valleys of the Vaudois
and the Col de la Croix • 464

163 Mont Dauphin to Sahzzo,

by the Col de la Tnxoersette . 468

165 Abri^s to Cuneo, by Val
Vraita or Val Maira . .471

166 Cuneo to Embrun, by the Col

d*Argentiere and Barcelonette 473

168 Digne, in the Valley of the

Durance, to Barcelonette, by
Colmar and Alos • . 477

169 Barcelonette to Brian^on, by

the Valley of the Ubaye and
St, Veran .... 479

170 Brian^on, or Mont Dauphin,

to Grenoble, by Val Louise
and La Birarde • • • 481

GEinBRAL Index

483

( « )

INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION.

6eci

1. Passports and Custom-houses

2, Routes to Switzerland —

Skeleton Tours . .
, 3. Money

4. Measures. — Distances. — Elec-

tric Telegraph System

5. Modes of Travelling in Swit-

zerland.— Posting .

6. Diligences — Luggage

7. Voiturier or Lohnkutscher —

Chars-^-Banc .

8. Railways .....

9. Guides — Porters .

10. Horses and Mules. — Chaises

a-Port€urs , • ,

11. Swiss Inns ....

12. Directions for Travellers, and

Page,
xi

* «

XII

xvi
xvi
xiz

xxii
xxiv

XXV

xxvii
xxviii

Sect Rige.

Requisites for a Jonmfy in
Switzerland — Maps —
Dangers of Alpine Tra-
velling— Precautions to be
adopted nxii

13. Objects most deserving of

Notice in Switzerland —
the Country and People — •
Baths xxxTii

14. Alpine Passes .... 1

15. Ch&lets and Pasturages . . liii

16. Glaciers W

17. Avalanches — Snow-storms —

Floods ..... Ixiii

18. Goitie and Cretinism . ^ Ixvii

19. Heights of Mountains, Lakes,

and Passes , , . . hix

J 1. Passpobts and Custom-houses.

The passport system is abolished in Bavaria, Belgium, Demnark, Holland,
Prance, Italy, Prussia, Spain, Sweden, Norway, Switzerland, and Austria.
Kotwithstanding this no English, traveller should venture abroad for a journey
of any length without a passport as a proof of his nationality, aud as a
means of identification. He may otherwise be marched under arrest, for
miles along a hot, dusty road, to some Sous PrefSt's residence, under the
suspicion of his not being an Englishman at all. A passport can be procured
at the Foreign-Office, Downing Street, by leaving or sending a letter of
recommendation from any M.P., or London banker, magistiate, clergyman,
solicitor, or surgeon, and calling or sending the next day for the passport,
for which a fee of 2s. is charged. The visa of the Austrian ambassador in
London is no longer required.

Those who have not time or a servant at their disposal should forward
their letters of recommendation to Lee, 440, Strand, or to Dorrell and Son,
15, Charing Cross, who for a small charge will procure the passports and
visas, and will also mount the passport in a case, which some travellers
prefer.

Oustom-houses, — The Swiss now levy import-dues only on a few bulky
articles, and no examination of passengers' luggage is made on entering or
leaving the country. Examinations are made on entering France, Italy,
AnstrH^ or the German States.

Xii i 2. — ^BOUXBS TO SWITZEBLAND.

§ 2. Routes to Switzeeland — Skeleton Toubs,

There are now several routes by which Switzerland may be very upeedily
reached from London : —

a. By Bafile from Paris direct, or via Mayence or Cologne, and cross lines
up the Rte.
6. By Friedrichsbafen, via Stuttgard and Ulm.
0. By Neuchatel, via Paris and Dole the shortest
d. By Geneva.

a, Basle may be reached —

London to Paris, 11 honrs; Paris to Basle (railway by Troyes, 13^

hours ; by Strasbourg 17 hours).
London to Mayence by Dover, Ostend, and Rhine Railway, 25^ hours ;

Mayence to Basle (railway) 9 hours. Or
London to Cologne by Antwerp, 28 hours ; Cologne to Frankfort

(steamer and railway), 15 hours ; Frankfort to Basle (railway), 8^

hours (or through to Zurich, 11 hours).
A cheaper but slower route is by Rotterdam and the Rhine,

From Basle the traveller may go —

To Lucerne (railway).

To Berne (railway).

To Zurich (railway).

To Geneva by Bienne, NeuchHtel, Lausanne, &c. (railways and

steamer).
To Schaffnausen (railway).
To Constance (railway and steamer).

b, FiiiBDBicHSHAFBN may be reached —

XiOndon to Mayence, 25} hours ; Mayence to Friedrichshafen, 12 hours.

Ldndon to Paris, 11 hours ; Paris to Friedrichsbafen, by Forbach and
Ludwigshafen, 25^ hours. This is a very pleasant way of enteriug
Switzerland. From Friedrichsbafen the traveller may go to ZiiricE
by Romanshom (steamer and railway), or to Coire by railway.

c. Nbuchatel may be reached —

London to Paris, 11 hours ; Paris to Salins by Dijon, 9 hours ; Sallns
to Neuch&tel, about 50 miles, by rail all the way. This is the most
direct and quickest route to Switzerland.

d. Geneva may be reached —

London to Paris, 11 hours; Paris to Geneva by Macon (railway),
14} hours,
a or J will be adopted by those who wish to visit first Lucerne or the
Bernese Oberland ; d by those who aim at Chamouni and Zermatt.

The traveller with his knapsack who requires no more than a night's
lodging at Paris may drive at once to one of the inns opposite the terminus
of the Chemin de Fer de ITEst ; whence he will have to start in the morning,
if he travels by routes a, c, or d.

For the guidance of travellers, skeleton tours are here given, adapted
to the convenience and taste of persons of different degrees of bodily
strength, and using different modes of conveyance.

The two first tours are tolerably complete ; other tours are framed so
as to show what may be done within a given time ; but no sounder advice
can be given to those who desire real and thorough enjoyment in tra-
velling than carefully to abstain from doing all that can be done in the

§ 2. — SKELETON TOURS.

^ ■ • ■

XUl

time at their disposal. The grandest scenes of nature cannot be fully
apprehended at a glance, and the impression which will be retained of
sublime objects seen repeatedly, and under varying conditions of weather
and light, will be far more prized than the crowd of imperfect images that
can alone be carried away by a weary traveller in the course of an always
hurried advance from one place to another.

Each traveller must, however, decide for hin^self the spots in which he
may choose to halt, and the following outlines may conveniently be used
for any portion of the alpine chain which it is desired to explore. The
difficult 'passes are not included, as those who are able to cross them ought
to be prepared by previous training and knowledge of the country.

A. — TouB FOB Pbbsons who do not bide: about six weeks of easy
travelling. Those portions which cannot be traversed in a carriage
are marked as Char-road. A few easy excursions, which may be
accomplished in a chaise hfdfrtewr^ are given in italics.

Basle.

HiinsterthaL
Bienne.
Weissenstein.
Ltuseme.

Weggis, by steamer.
Ascend Righi^ and return.
Fluelen, bv steamer.
Drive to Altorf, and return.
Lucerne, by steamer or road.
Thun, by Entlebuch.
Xnterlaken, by steamer.
Lauterbrunnen, and thence to Grin-
delwald, by char; returning to In-
terlaken.

Brienz, by steamer.
Beichenbach, by char.

Visit Giesbachf and return to Inter-
laken.

Thnn.

Bern.

Freyburg.

Lausanne.

Geneva.

Sallenches.

Chamonni, by char.

Montanvert,

Flegere.

Betam to Geneva.

Vewy, by steamer.

B.— The foregoing Koute may be varied by going at first from Basle

to Ziirioh by Kailway.

Horgen, Zug, and Immensee.

Ascmd the Eight and descend to Weggis.

Huelen, by steamer.

Laeeme.

Sameuy &c., by the Brunig : carriage

mad to Beichenbach and Brientz

(Oiesimch by boat).

Chillon. (Hotel Byron.)

Bex. (Making an excursion by char

to Sepey, in the Yal des Ormonds,

and returning to the high road at

Aigle.
Sierre, by Martigny and Sion.
Excorsion by char to the Baths of

Leak, and return to high road.
Brieg.

r>omo d' Ossola, by Simplon.
Baveno.

Borromean Islands.
Luino, by boat.
Lugano.
Boat to Porlezza; thence by char to

Menaggio, and by boat to Va-

renna or Bellag^o.
Chiavenna.
Andeer, by Splfigen.
Coire.
Sargans, visiting on

Baths of Ffeflers.
Wallenstadt»
Wesen.
Carriage to Kapperschwyl, and

steamer on Lake of Zurich.
Schaffhausen.
Constance.
Friedrichshafen, by steamer.

the way the

Interlaken.

Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, re-
turning to
Interlaken.

(Thun, &c, as in preceding route.)

XIV

§ 2.' — SKELETOIf TOURS.

C. — ^RotiTE BY Bridle-paths and Carriage-roads, including most of
the remarkable scenery of the Central Alps. Three months. It is
assumed that wherever there is a good carriage-road it should be used.
A few excursions on foot are given in italics.

Basle to Lucerne, by Railway; or by

Schaffhausen and Zurich.
Ascend the Eigi from Arth or Im-

mensee.
Descend to Weggis.
Hetum to Lucerne. — Mount Pilate.
By Stanz to Engelber|r,
By Surenen Pass to Altdorf.
By Andermatt to Hospital.
Pass of the Furca to the GrimseL
Excursion to the Lower Glacier of

the Aar.
Baths of Reichenbach,
Pass of the Scheldeck.
Faulhom.
Grindelwald.
Excursion to the Lower Glacier of

Grindelwald.
"Wengem Alp to Lauterbrunnen.
MUrren and Fall of Schmadribach.
Interlaken.
Excursion to the Giesbach, and back.

— ^Wimmis and ascent of Niesen.
Thun.

Saanen, by the Simmenthal.
Veyey, by the Dent de Jaman.
Chillon, &c.
Lausanne.
Geneya.

Excursion to the Saleve.
Sallenches.
Chamouni.
Montanvert.
Breven.
Martigny.
Orsi^res.

Cormayeur, by Col de Ferret.
Ascent of the Cramont.
Aosta.
Excursion to the Hospice of the St

Bernard, and return.
Chatillon.
St. Jean de Gressonay, by Brus-

sone.
Mollia, by Riva and the Col di Val

Dobbia.
Varallo.
Orta.

Excursion to the Motterone.
Vanzone in the Val Anzasca, by Vo-

?ogna.

mgnaga.

* Matmcsrk or 8aas, by the Monte Moro,

Sion.

Evolena.

St. Luc, in Einfisch Thai.

Gruben, in Turtman Thai.

St. Niklaus.

Zermatt.

Riffelberg and Gomer Grat.

Ascent to Schwai^ze See and HdrrUi,

Visp, in the valley of the Rhone.

Bel Alp.

^ggiscbhom Hotel

Ascend the Aeggischhom,

Brieg.

Domo d'Ossola, by Simplon. '

Bayeno.

Borromean Isles.

Luino.

Lugano.

Excursion to Monte Salvatore.

By Porlezza and Menaggio to Bel-

lagio, on the Lake of Como.
Varenna.

Lecco, by the Val Sassina.
Como, by Erba.
Colico, by steamer.
Chiayenna.
Andeer, by Spliigen.
Coire, by v ia Mala.
Ragatz and Pfeffers.
Wesen, by WaUenstadt.
Stachelberg.

Altdorf, by Klausen Pass.
Schwytz.

Glarus, by Muotta Thai.
St. Gall.
Rorschach.
Friedrichshafen.

* Those who fear to undertake the
Pass of the Moro may vary the route
by returning from Hacugnaga to Vo-
gogna, proceediog thence by steamer
on the Lago Maggiore to Locarno or
Magadino, and thence by Bellinzona
and Airolo oyer the Niirenen Pass to
Obergesteln in the Dbper Valais.
From Obergesteln to the ^ggisch-
horn, thence to Zermatt, returning to
Yisp and Brieg, and thence by the
Simplon to Domo d'Ossola. The above
I route would be rejoined at Bayeno.

§ 2,— -SKELETON TOURS.

D. — ^TouB OF 14 OB 16 Days, hard travelling and fine weather.

Dtys.

(SchfliFhaiisen.
iJBhineFalL
( Zurich. Or

fPriedrichshafen.
fiomanshom.
Zag. Or
(Basle,
I Lucerne.
2Bigl
gfAltorE
lAndennatt.

4 GrimseL

5 Beichenbach and Bosenlani.

6 By GrindelwaldtoWeBgem Alp.

Days.

7 By Lauterbrannen and Ihterlaken

to FrfiCigen.

8 By Gemmi to Leukerbad.

9 Martignv and Col de BdJme.
10
11

12
13
14
15
16

Chamouni.

Geneva.

Tour of the Lake to Lausanne,

Bern.

Basle.

3, 4, and 5 maj be shortened to one
day hj crossing the Briinig to Mey-
ringen.

E.— Tour fob Modebatb Pedestbians, keeping to the higher parts of
the Swiss and Savoy Alps. It is assumed that some days of rest should
be allowed to intervene, and that the passes or ascents marked in italics
should not be attempted except in settled fine weather, and with ex-
perienced guides.

DajB.

21 Baths of Leuk, by Gemmi Pass.

22 Ascend the Torrenthom.

23 By Viesch, or by the Lotschsattel,
to Hotel on the ^g^ischhom.

241iE]ggi8chhom, Aletsch Glacier,
25) &c.

26 To Saas, by Viesch and Visp.

27 Excursion to Fee Alp; sleep at
Matmark.

28 Macugnaga by Monte More.

29 Excursion to Macugnaga Glacier.

30 Sleep at Vanzone.

31 Yarallo, by Val Mastalone.

32 Alagna.

33 Exc. to Pile Alp and Val di Bours.

34 Gressoney, by Col d'Ollen or Col
di Val Dobbia.

35 Ascend the Grcwhaupt

36 Breuil, by the Cimea Bkmchea, or in
two days by Brussone and Ch&-
tillon.

87 TomSelhergRoteXbyiheThdodule

Pass,
38)

39 [Excursions about Zermatt.
40j

41 Sleep at St. Nicolas.

42 By Turtmcmihal and Meiden Pass t^

lAiC.

43 Arpitetta Alp andZinal.

44 Evolena, by Torrent Pass.

1 Friedrichshafen by steamer to

Borschach; thence by rail to
Ragatz; visit Pfaffers; sleep at
Coire.

2 Diligence to Lenz, walk over the

Albola Pass to Ponte; sleep at
Samaden.

3 Visit Rosegg or Mortiratsch

Glacier; sleep at Pontresina.

4 Ascend the Pis Zanguard.

5 To Casaccia, by Maloya Pass.

6 Andeer, by Ix>rcella Pass and

Avers Thai.

7 Via Mala to Beichenau or Flims.
% To Elm, by Segnes Pass.

9 Baths of Stachelberg, by the
Richetli Pass.

10 Excursion to Sand Alp.

11 Elansen Pass to Alton.

12 Suienen Pass to Engelberg.

'^3 Ascend the Titlis, and sleep at the

Inn on the Engstlen Alp.
U To Ln Hof, and Grimsel Hospice.
l^^Siddhom and Oberaar Glacier.
16/Qlsder of the Rhone.

17 Stnhleck Pass to Grindelwald.

18 Lm on the Wengem Alp.

19 By Lauterbrunnen to the chalet

of the Steinberg Alp.

20 To Blandersteg, by the Tsohingel

HAifiir €nd Qasteren Thai,

JCVl

§ 3. — SWISS MONEY. § 4. — MEASURES.

Days.

45 Col de Cotton to Prerayen,

46 Yalpellina to Aosta.

47 Connayeur.

48 Ascend the Cramont,

49VTo Chamouni, by Ool de Bon-
50 J honune, &c.

Days. '

51)Breven.

52 )Jardm,

From 10 to 14 days addition^
should be allowed for rest and de-
tention by bad weather.

§ 3. MONEY.

The coinage of Switzerland, by a decree of the Diet of 1850, haa been
reduced to conformity with that of France. The current money is francs
and centimes, and accounts are now kept in these, the old Swiss batz being
no longer a legal tender. This new and uniform coinage for the whole of
Switzerland is distinguished by the word Helvetia on the obverse, and is
amongst the best in Europe.

The silver coins consist of pieces of 5 francs, 2. francs, 1 franc, and ^
franc (50 centimes). The small coins consist of pieces of 5, 10, and 20
centimes, struck in base metal, and easier to carry than French or English
copper. Centimes are sometimes called rappen. The old batz was worth
15 centimes. The old or Swiss franc was a French franc and a half.

Previously to this salutary change there was hardly a country in Europe
which had so complicated a currency as Switzerland. Almost every canton
had a coinage of its own, and those coins that were current in one canton
would not pass in the next ; and as a change is contemplated in England,
it may be interesting to know that, within six months after the new system
was introduced, all trace of the old denominations was gone, except that the
expression " franc de France," instead of " franc," was common. In re-
mote districts the children begging screamed for centimes as if they had
never heard of any other coin.

French Napoleons and francs, current all over Switzerland, are the best
money the traveller can take with him. ; but English sovereigns and bank-
notes are usually taken at inns throughout Switzerland and on the Italian
lakes, at a value of 25 francs.

A very safe method of taking money is by circular notes issued by
Coutts & Co., Herries & Co., the London and Westminster Bank, and other
banks, payable at all the large towns in Europe. They may be procured
for any sum from lOZ. upwards.

The coinage of Piedmont and Lombardy is the same as that of France ;
but the 014 coinage of Piedmont, and Austrian zwanzigers, are still in cir-
culation in the remoter districts.

$ 4. MEASURES. — ^DISTAKCES. — ELECTBIO TELEGRAPH STSTEM.

In 1848 by the New Federal Constitution it was decreed that the Stvm

foot should consist of 30 centimetres, or •^ths of a French metre : — ^that

16,000 of these feet, or 4800 metres, should go to a Swiss leagtie « 2 Eng.

miles, 7 furlongs, 190 yards = 2-983 Eng. miles: — 23|r Swiss leagues

to a degree. A Swiss post is 3 Swiss leagues >b8 9 Eng. miles, nearly.

1 Swiss pied = 10 pouces = 100 lignes = 1000 traits.

Upon this authentic basis the measurement of distances on the roads of
Switzerland has been commenced, and league-posts have been partially
erected.

On most maps the heights above the sea-level are indicated in Fieds de
Paris, or Old French feet.

§ 4. — MKASUKRS — DISTANCES.

XVII

1 metre . . .
1 kilomdire . .
1 Old French foot
1 French league
1 Swiss leagne 1
or Stnnde . j
1 Swiss Post
1 Swiss arpoit .
1 Swiss poand •
1 Piedmont mile
1 German mile .

3-281 Eng. feet =

0-621 Eng. mile =

.1-066 Eng. foot =

2-485 Eng. miles =

2-983 Eng. miles =

3*00 Swiss 8tande=
0*89 Eng. acres =
1-102 lb. avoird. =
1-503 Eng. mile =
4* 602 Eng. miles s

3 feet 3 inches, nearly.

3-5ths or 5-8tlM of a mile» nearly.

1 foot 1 inch, nearly.

2^ miles, nearly.

3 miles, nearly.

9 miles, nearly.

9-lOths of an acre, nearly.

^ Fr. kilog. = 1 lb. 1 oz., nearly.

1^ mile and 57 yards.

4} miles, nearly.

Tables of Measures.

Metres to EngUsh Feet

Metres.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

English Feet

j Aocunte.

3-2809

6-5618

9*8427

13-1236

16-4045

19-6854

22-9663

26-2472

29-5281

Approx.

16}

19}

26i

29}

French Feet to EngUdi Feet

French
Feet.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

English Feet.

Accurate.

2
3

4
5
6

7'
8

0658
1315
1973
2631
3288
3946
4604
5261
9-5919

An approximate way of reducing French ffc. to English ft. is to add ^^th.

Centimetres to Inches.

Kilometres* to

> EngUsh Miles.

Kilometre.

English
Miles.

Kilometre.

English
Miles.

Approx.

12}

18}

24f

Leagues to Miles.

Leagoe.

1 French league
1 Swiss league
1 Swiss stonde
1 Swiss post

English MUes.

Accurate.
2-485
2-983
3-28
3 Swiss leagues

Aiq;>roz.
2} J

9 '

Square Measure.

1 Swiss arpent
1 hectare

Acres.

Accurate.
0-89
-27456

Approx.

f ] Isiloin^re ^ 4 Itirlongs 913 yaids I fi)ot U incfaee.

xvm

§ 4. — DISTANCES — ^ELECTBIC TELEGBAPH,

Temperatnre.

Fahr.

212
200
150
140
130
120
110
100

Cent.

o
100
93-3
65-6
60-0
54-4
48
43
37-8
32-2

9
3

Beaumar.

o
80
74-7
52-4
48-0
43-6
39-1
34-7
30-2
25-8

Temperatnre.

Fahr.

80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10

Cent.

26
21
15
10-

4-
. 1

6'
12'
17'

7
1
6
0
4
1
7
2
8

Beaumar.

21-3
16-9

12-

8'
3'

- 6'

- 5'

- 9'
-14'

4
0
6
9
3
8
2

The distances in this work have been reduced to English miles, which
are always to be understood wherever the word mile alone is used.

To calculate the distance along the mountain-paths is almost hopeless.
In this work, therefore, the distances along the mountain-paths have been
reckoned as the natives reckon them, in hourSy meaning thereby the dis-
tance which a mule with an ordinary load usually travels in an hour ; and
this is to be understood whenever the word hou7' alone is used.

The hour of course varies according to the nature of the ground. In very
steep ascents it does not exceed 2 miles, in lesser acclivities 2^ miles ; but
on the mountains it is never more than 2^ miles. It has been ascertained
by an experienced Alpine traveller that to clear 2 miles an hour up a
steep mountain requires very good walking. An active walker will gain
6 or 10 minutes an hour on mules during an ascent, and still more on the
descent ; but persons not accustomed to exertion, or unused to mountain
work, will find difficulty in keeping up with the mules when the ascent
is steep. The mules are nearly as long on the descent as on the ascent ;
and therefore no difference is made in the ordinary reckoning of distances
whether the path be up or down hill. It may be noted once for all, that,
when nothing to the contrary is stated in the text, the time given in the
following pages for going from one place to another by a mountain path
may be r^uced by one-fifth in the case of active pedestrians who are able
to maintain their pace throughout the entire distance.

The sudden and almost simultaneous establishment of the electric
telegraph along all the great high roads of the country was very remark-
able. There is now scarcely a second-rate town or village that is not thus
connected ; and from any of them a message not exceeding 20 words can be
sent for 1 fr., 21 to 50 for 2 frs., 51 to 100 for 3 frs., to any part of Switzerland,
Luxurious or anxious travellers can thus, before starting in the morning,
secure quarters for the night, or even order their dinner beforehand. The
mode of arranging the wire is excessively primitive and economical, but
seems to be effectual. It is stated that the insulation of the wires is not
affected by" their being covered with snow, and in many instances they are
in contact with the foliage of trees. — ^It is singular and striking to see the
telegraphic wires stretched from rock to rock along the shores of the lake
of Lucerne, and surmounting the steep ascent and gloomy solitudes of

S 5. — ^m:oi>ss of travelling — postino. xjx

tiie Griea and other A-lpino Passes. The central office of the Telegraph
iaatZofingen(Rte. 4.)
Postal BegvUations : A xiniform postage of 10 c. for letters helow 10

grainme8,if not pTex>aid. 15 cents. For distances within 2 leagues 6 c. For

letters and parcels not exceeding 250 gr. (i lb.) 20 c.

§ 5. KOI>S8 OF TBAYELUNO IN SWrrZERLAND. — ^POSTING.

The means of travelling in Switzerland have been greatly improved and
increased within tlie last 30 years. The high roads are excellent, and
those over the Alps are marvels of engineering skill. Where railways
are not made, diligences run ; and since 1823, when the first experiment
with steam was made on the Lake of Geneva, every one of the large
lakes is navigated hy steamboats.

The Federal Grovemment adopted in 1852 a general and uniform
system of Posting (Extrapost), which has been introduced into all parts
of the country, and all the great roads are now supplied with post-horses,
except where the railways have been completed. There is still however
difficulty in posting into Italy, except over the St. Gotthard ; and in Savoy.
Full information respecting the posting system may be obtained from the
Official Swiss Post Book (Tarif Suisse de la Poste attac Chevaux\ or the
smaller Extra Post Tariff which every traveller ought to procure on
entering Switzerland.

Sorses are charged 4 fr. each per post of 9 miles. Posthoy^s pay, according
to tariff, is 1 fr. 50 c. for 1 or 2 horses ; 2 fr. for 3 horses ; 2 fr. 50 c. for 4
horses per post ; but if he behaves well it is usual to give him 4 fr. or the
price of a horse : price for Carriage, when furnished, 2 fr. per post.

The horses and harness are generally good; the postboys tolerably
skilful, hut they get over the ground very slowly. The reguiiation pace is
a post in 1 hour 30 min., or 6 miles an hour, and is not often exceeded.
TJpon certain stages up hill the tariff compels you to take an extra horse,
CT leader (renfort), or to pay for it if not taken, sometimes with very little
apparent reason. There is very little trouble in posting ; the prices are
&ced, and the postboy's pay is included.

Since the extension of railways, it has become very unusual to bring a
carriage from England, and such a thing as a regular travelling-carriage is
seldom seen in Switzerland. Those who wish to be luxurious, and do not
mind the expense and in many instances the inconvenience of having a
carriage attached to them, may hire a carriage for the journey at Geneva,
Zurich, Lucerne, or occasionally at other towns in Switzerland.

In hiring a Swiss carriage for the journey let the traveller ascertain,
hefore he concludes the bargain, under what class the vehicle would be
ranged by the posting laws, and what number of hdrses will be required
to draw it.

It is a great convenience in Switzerland for a solitary traveller that he
may post in a car with one horse, the charges being per post— for 1 horse,
4 fr. ; car, 2 fr. ; postboy, 1 fr. 50 c. ; but an extra trinkgeld is expected.
. TdU for the roads and bridges are abolished throughout Switzerland,
and the owners indemnified.

S 6. — nnJOENCBs— wraGAOB.

TAEIF FOE PCSTHIO.

CHA

RGEF

OBHO

R8ES.

laotM.

1 Horsei.

"-•

4H<IT»I.

Fr.

Ct.

i
5

Ct-

Pr.

Fr.

CI.

—

25
27
28

—

tHOIM).

Fr.

Ft.

Ct.

g 6. DILIGENCES — LUGOAOE.

Well-appoiat«d Biligeneea, though not veiy f&st, numing at convenient
hours and very muderate fares, traverse almost ever^ road in Switzerluid
daily where railways have not been laid down, and connect the chief rly.
stats, with the places in their vicinity. The result is, tbat a great Dumher
of persona travel by them in preference to the voituriet's carriage, whose
prices are also kept down hy the competition of the diligences. The
serious objection is, that, except fi-otn the conp6, very little of the beauty
of the country is seen by those who travel by them.

They belong to the Federal Government, aro managed by persons officially
appointed, and are attached to the post-office, as in Oemiany, conformably
with an enactment of the new Swiss Constitution of 1848. A list of
diligences, &c. (Kuraanzeiger, Indicatenr des Services Suissea), is to be
bonght at the offices for a few sous. The places are nurobeied, and all
ba^age exceeding a certain fixed weight is charged extra, and often greatly
increases the expense of this mode of conveyance, which is one reason
amoi^ many why travellers should reduce their bf^gage t^ the EmalleEt
possible compass. The pnblic conveyances are now qnite as well organised
as in Germany.

§ 6. — ^DILIGEKCES — ^L0O6AQ£«

lii

TABI7 FOB

I FOSTIHa.

Gvriaj

Iba

3ho

POSTBOY'S DBINKMONEY.

CHABGE FOR POST CARRIAOES.

Be with

raea^

For a
CarriJige with
sboraes.

For a

Carriage with

4 or more

horses.

For a
Carriage with
1 horse or
a horses.

For a

Carriage with

8 horses.

For a

Carriage with

4 horses or

6 horses.

Fr. , CL

Ft.

Ct.

Ft.

Fr.

Ct.

Fr.

Ct.

Fr.

Ct.

- i 75

—

<—

—

— .

*—

.—

—

i—

— .

—

— .

—

>—

—

' 70

"~"

^""

"■^

The conductors, especially with a small additional fee, are generally
civil ; the clerks, &c., at the diligence offices are occasionally insolent and
Obliging. The diligences, as in France, are horsed with the post-horses,
find go from the same offices, so that there is no remedy in the case of
annoyance or incivihty except to take a voiturier.

There is a very convenient plan adopted as to places. The diligence
offices will book any number of passengers up to a certain hour. When
the time for starting arrives, all the luggage and as many passengers as
^ vehicle will hold are put into the diligence, which is far superior to
the French diligence, and the rest of the passengers are sent by other
carriages, called "supplements," or " beiwagen," of which there are often
3 or 4. If there is a party of 4 or 5, they can generally get a supplement ,
to themselves, and travel very comfortably, except that the supplement is
^3mSkY chuiged at every stage. Unless at. the place from which the
diligence starts, it is useless to take places for the coup^, for at the inter-
mediate stations the coup^ is often found full, and the traveller proceeds
*Uk a supplement. The pace along level ground never exceeds 6 miles an
hoor ; at the smallest symptom of a hill this falls to a walk : down hill
they occasionally go rather faster ; and to those who have not become

iCXii § 6. — DILIGENCES — LUGGAGE. § 7. — ^VOITmuERS.

hardened by use it is rather a nervous thing to see the heavy diligence
turn round the comers of the zigzags in the face of precipices, with -tlie
reins of the 5 horses flying loose, and the horses apparently under no
control. The horses however know the road, and, except in snow, an
accident is seldom heard of.

The conductor's fee and the postilion's trinkgeld are included in the fa.re.

Travellers in Switzerland will frequently be glad to avail themselves of
the public conveyances to forward their luggage from one place to anotlxer,
while they are making pedestrian excursions among the mountains. In
such cases, they have only to book their packages at the coach-ofiBce, after
carefully addressing them, and, in some cases, entering a specification, of
their value in a printed form. They will then receive a receipt, and tlie
article will be forwarded and taken care of imtil claimed.

In making application for packages so consigned, as well as for letters &t
the post-office, the Englishman should present his name printed or very
legibly written, as our pronunciation is frequently unintelligible to foreigners,
and without this precaution the applicant may be told that his luggage
has not arrived, when in reality it is all the while lying in the depot. Tlie
traveller may also request to look over the packages in search of his own.

Unhappily complaints are numerous of luggage being opened in trcmsttu
or in depot, and of articles being purloined from it.

Many complaints are made as to the carelessness of tbe officials in Swiss
Post-offices, even in the large towns, and many persons find it expedient
to have their letters addressed to the care of a banker or a well-known
hotel-keeper.

§ 7. VOITUBIER OB LOHNKUTSOHES— CHABB-i-BANC.

The excellently organised systems of posting and public conveyances
introduced since 1849, which place Switzerland on a par with any country of
the continent — render travellers in a great degree independent of the voi-
turier, or lohnkutscher, or vetturino — whom formerly they were obliged to
engage as soon as they crossed the Swiss frontier.

The Railway termini are the head-quarters of the voituriers ; at all of
them there are many persons who keep job-horses for hire, and will either
conduct the traveller themselves, or send coachmen in their employ.
Return horses and carriages are sometimes to be met with^ and the tra-
veller may save some expense by availing himself of them*

Before making an engagement, it is prudent to conduit the landlord of
the inn, or some other respectable inhabitant, to recommend a person of
approved character to be employed. As there are many very roguish
voituriers, ready to take advantage of the traveller on all occasions, such
a recommendation will be a guarantee, to a certain extent, for good be-
haviour. The landlord shoulS be referred to apart, not in presence of the
coachman, nor, indeed, with his cognizance. Besides ascertaining that

§ 7.--yOIT(mi£BS* CHABS-1-BANC. l}du.

the Toitarier is a respectable man, that his horses are good, and his carriage
(^when a carriage is also required) is clean and stout, it is desirable in
many cases that he should speak French as well as German, and, in all,
that he be acquainted with the roads to be traversed. If the carriage is
hired for a complete tour, the engagement should, in the first instance,
not be made for any specific time, at least not for a long period, until man
and horses have been tried and have given satisfaction. It is better to
take him on from day to day, holding out the prospect of his being
continued if he behaves well. It should be clearly understood whether
the well-mannered individual who is the proprietor of the carriage and
makes the bargain with you, will or will not be the driver, otherwise he
may hand you over to the charge of a subordinate.

The usual charge per diem is 15 francs, and 1 franc trinkgeld or bonne-
main, for a one-horse vehicle ; 25 francs, and 2 francs trinkgeld, for a pair-
horse vehicle ; and so on. In the height of the season it is from 3 to 5
francs a-day more, and over the great passes it is higher still.

If the carriage is discharged at a distance from home, back-fare will be
demanded.

For this consideration the coachman keeps himself and his horses, sup-
plying fresh ones if his own fall ill or lame ; he ought aUo to pay all tolls,
and the charge for leaders (vorspann) to dn^ the carriage up steep ascents.
These two last conditions, however, are not always acceded to, and these
charges often fall upon the master.

It is advisable, before setting out on a long tour, to have an agreement
in writing drawn up. (See Forms of Contract in Murray's ' Handbook
of Travel Talk.')

It is, however, now become unusual to engage a voiturier except for a
particular journey of two or three days. Without troubling the traveller
with the complications of back-fares, &c., the rate may be reckoned in the
season for a good carriage and pair at about 40 fr. a-day over the more
level parts, and 60 fr. a-day over the great passes, all charges, back-fare,
vorspann, bonnemain, &c., included. A return voiturier will take one-half
or two-thirds of these prices.

The usual rate of travelling is from 10 to 15 leagues, 32 to 46 miles
»*day, proceeding at the rate of about 5 miles an hour. Whilst on the
road the voiturier goes as fast as the diligence or post-horses, but it is
necessary to halt in the middle of the day, about two hours, to rest the
horses ; and the distances which one pair of horses will achieve by means
of walking up the smallest ascents, and using the break skilfully on all
descents, are incredible.
Throi^Iiout Switzerland, onc'^horse ccUeches, or chaises, ein^p&nner, are

W)ining common, instead of chars-k-banc, and may be hired at every inn.

They hold comfortably 2 or 3 persons, and are furnished with a hood

affording shelter from rain, while not shutting out the view. In front

^eie is a board for the driver. They go at a rate of 5 or 6 m. an hour,

oxoept on very hilly roads. The fare is about 1 franc an English mile ;

and tiic driver receives 1 fr. trinkgeld for 8 or 10 miles. The luggage

Diay he attached behind on springs,
llie char-a-banc, the national carriage of French Switzerland, is nearly

obsolete. It may be described as the body of a gig, or a bench, as its

namennplies, placed sideways upon four wheels, surrounded 'by leather

XxiV § 8. — RAlLWAtS,

curtains made to di^w, whence it has been compared to a four-post tjedstead
on wheels. It is a very strong and light vehicle, capable of carrying tviT-o
persons, or three at a pinch, and will go on roads where no other species
of carriage could venture. It is convenient, from being so low that one
can jump in or alight without stopping the horse, while it is going on ; but
it is very jolting.

§ 8. RAILWAYS.

Down to the year 1865 the only railway in Switzerland was a short
line from Ziirich to Baden, a village in the neighbourhood. The reason
of this was not, as generally supposed, the extreme natural difficulties of
the country, Switzerland being in fact, with the exception of the passes
through the central mountains of the Alps and the J\ira, not a very diffi-
cult country. The lowlands, or parts round Berne, Aarau, Neuchatel,
Lausanne, &c., are not worse than many parts of the south of England ;
and by means of the valleys of the Ehine and the Rhone, railways can
penetrate deep into the Alps with remarkable ease. The real difficulty
consisted in the extraordinary and incredible jealousies between not only
the different cantons, but the different communes or parishes, and the legal
difficulties in obtaining the land. A change of government, however,
having taken place in 1848, a system of railways was plaimed by the
Department of Public Works, and has been partially carried into execu-
tion, many of the lines being executed by English engineers and with
English capital.

1. The GentrdL Swiss BaUwayy from Basle through the Unter-Hauen-
stein to Olten, and thence to Berne and Thun, with branches to Soleure and
Bienne, Lucerne and Aarau, also from Bienne direct to Berne.

2. The North'Eastem EaUway, from Romanshom on the lake of Con-
stance to Ziirich, and thence to Aarau on the Central Railway, open.

3. From Basle, along the N. bank, or Baden side of the Rhine, to
Waldshut and Schaffhausen ; continued to Constance — the BheinfaU Rail-
way, from Schaffhausen to Winterthur and Zurich,

4. The United Swiss, from Coire (with hopes of a tunnel through the
Alps at some future time) to Rorschach on the lake of Constance, open ;
with branches : a.— from Sargans, along the side of the lake of Wallen-
stadt, to Rapperschwyl and Ziirich ; h. — from Rorschach, by St. Gall and
Winterthur, to Ziirich ; and c. — ^from Wesen to Glarus.

5. I7ie Western BaUway, from Bienne, by Neuchfttel and Yverdun, to
Moines and Lausanne, and thence to Geneva, open. From Lausanne to
Villeneuve, on the lake of Geneva, up the valley of the Rhone towards
the Simplon, is open to Sion and Sierre.

6. From Pontarlier, on the French frontier, to Neuch&tel (shortest way
from Paris to Switzerland), connecting bmnches from Neuchfttel to Chanx
de Fonds and Locle.

S 9. — GtTIDtS — PORTERS. XXV

1. the Ligne ^Italie to connect Geneva with the Simplon Pass by the
S. side of the lake of Geneva. The section from Bouveret, on the lake, by
8t. Kanrice, to Sion in the Yalais, is alone open at present.

8. Eailwaj from Berne to Fribourg and Lausanne.

9. Sailways are also open from Lyons and Macon to Geneva.
The weight allowed is only 201bs., all above this is charged for.
Excursion Tickets, and return-tickets, valid for 2 or 3 days, may be pro-
cured in summer on many of the lines.

The luggage arrangements on the Swiss railways are if possible more
iscoDvenient than on the French or German railways ; and there is a
system of extortion for conveyance to and from the stations which the
tniTeller should be on his guard against.

The Swiss railway carriages are generally on the American model, with
cross seats and a passage down the middle.

§ 9. QUIDEB — PORTERS.

Quides hy jyrofessUm aboond in Switzerland; many of them have
acquired a wide-spread and well-earned reputation. Those who have
earned a character for especial skill and intrepidity in difficult and dan-
gerous expeditions in the higher Alps are usually engaged during the entire
season by members of the Alpine Club or other adventurous travellers,
hi general, the practice of taking the same guide for an entire tour is
becoming more and more common amongst Alpine travellers, and in this
way many have acquired local knowledge of a considerable portion of the
Alpine chain. Thus guides may be considered in two capacities. General
uni Local,

General Cfnides are to be found at Ghamouni, Grindelwald, Thun,

Interlaken, Meyringen, and also at Ziirich, Lucerne, Berne, Zerman, and

Pontresina, in the En^uline, &c. ; and it is by no means a bad plan for an

inexperienced traveller or party to engage an approved guide for the entire

tour of Switzerland, including Bernese Alps, Zermatt, and Ghamouni.

Men may be found who, having frequently made the tour, have a good

general knowledge of the whole country. A trustworthy guide is worth

sccaring, even &ough he should not have sufficient Imowledge to act

oyer mountain-passes beyond his own peculiar district. He makes

^iJniself useful, not only in pointing out the way, but in acting as

^teipreter to those unacquainted with the langus^e of the country, and

also in relieving the traveller of tl^e weight of his knapsack or travelling-

W, and in fact acts as courier, but at a cheaper rate, and generally

^th more honesty. Such a guide should not, as a general rule, be

^!>^€^ without the recommendation of an innkeeper or other respectable

P^nrai, and it should be distinctly understood that the traveller is to be

^^ to dischai^e him whenever he pleases, paying his expenses home, or a

^f^ pay for each day's journey to be made on foot.

Al(mg with the guide, horses or mules may be taken for a Bridle Tour,
^% arranging the plan in a eirde much expense of hack fares of men
*^WrtBis saved.

Loeal Guides are, as a general rule, indispensable in ascending very
*^ nuRmtains, in exploring glaciers, and in crossing the minor passes
rf the Alps, not traversed by highroads, but by mere bridle or foot
Pfifts, rarely used, and in many places not distinctly marked, or

XXVi § 9. — GtriDES — ^PORTERS.

confounded with innumerable tracks of cattle. Nevertheless, travellers
having a good knowledge of German, in addition to some experience
of mountain journeys, and provided with a good map, may cross
some of these passes alone with impunity; but there are others, snch.
as the Bonhomme, Mont Cervin, Monte Moro, &c., which no one would
be justified in attempting without a guide. When snow is threatening
to fall, or after a snow-storm has covered the path and obliterated tlie
footsteps of prieceding travellers, a guide may be required in situations
where, under ordinary circumstances, his presence might be dispensed with.
Of course, in clear weather, and over passes not crossing snow or glaciers,
a guide is no more needed than he would be in any strange country, ex-
cept that on the high mountains there is no one of whom to inquire tlie
way, and tbat a mistake of tbe path might involve the disagreeable neces-
sity of sleeping out on the moimtain. A traveller of some experience is
of opinion that upon an average, without a guide, 1 mile in 10 will be lost
in mistakes of the way, even by practised mountaineers. No one, however,
without thorough knowledge and experience of the high Alps, should be
foolish enough to trust himself over ice or snow without a guide. It J^
enirely a new world ; and when the slightest check occurs, an inexperienced
person is utterly at a loss. He does not know what ice will bear him, where
the crevasses run, where avalanches fall, or where the safe track is likely to
be ; and with the best ordinary judgment, is quite as likely to run into danger
as to avoid it. One golden rule to those who take no guide is, always to
leave two or three good hours of daylight as a margin beyond the utmost
time which the route is calculated to occupy. Another excellent rule is,
never take a short cut upon your own judgment. It is frequently wrong
to cut off the most apparent zigzag ; but the villagers will often, for a few
sous, show wonderfully short cuts.

In the eastern parts of Switzerland, where there are no professional
guides, the tpiveller is often obliged to place himself in the hands of some
peasant or cowherd, whose sole knowledge of a pass lies, perhaps, in his
having crossed it once or twice, perhaps, many years befere. Tliis de-
mands additional caution.

The established rate of hire is 6 to 8 F. francs a-day, for 8 hours,
and in the Oberland 1 fr, bonnemain ; but, in addition to this, there
will be a claim for 6 francs a day or less to return, if dismissed at a dis-
tance from home, unless the employer find him a fresh master to ta,ke
back. For this sum the guide provides for himself, and is expected to
discharge all the duties of a domestic towards his employer. A first-rate
guide is usually paid 8 or 10 francs a-day, with additional sums of 20 francs
for each of the higher passes or more difficult ascents.

The guides at Chamouni form a corporation, and are subject to a number
of stringent rules as to their employment, of which travellers and the best
guides complain much. A monopoly has also been established in the
Oberland, and in some other parts of Switzerland. In the Lower Yalais
it is a punishable offence for any one, not a professed guide, to carry a
traveller's luggage ! !

For the most part, the guides may be said to be obliging, intelligent,
and hard-working men. Few who have employed them cannot bear testi-
mony to their coolness, intrepidity, . and tact, in moments of danger — ^in
the difficult pass, in the midst of the snow-storm, or among the gaping

§ 10«^^HORS£S AND MtLGS. JtJCVU

clefts of the glaciers It is in such situations that their knowledge of the
moxmtains, Sieir experience of the weather, their strong arm and steady
foot, are fullj appreciated. The traveller should always follow the guide
in crossing gJaciers, and, in going over tracts covered with snow, should
allow hin2 to choose what his experience teaches to be the safest path.

A little civility and familiarity on the part of the employer— the offer of
a cigar ^m the traveller's own case, or a glass of brandy from his private
flask— will rarely be thrown away ; on the contrary, it is likely to pro-
duce assiduity and commmiicativeness on the part of the guide. Many of
them are fine and athletic men, and to carry for 8 or 10 hours a-day, and
for a distance of 25 or 30 m., a load of 30 or 40 lbs. weight is made light
of hj them.

Some travellers content themselves with a mere porter to carry their
baggage for them. Such a man is paid less than the professional guides ;
3 or 4 fr. a^day will suffice for him. Those who travel in chars or on
horseback will find that the driver, or the man who accompanies the horse,
will render unnecessary the employment of any other person in that
capacity. At Chamouni, however, the guides must be hired distinct from
the mules. When the travelling party includes ladies unaccustomed to
mountain- work, a guide is required to attend on each, to lead down the
horses where the path is steep, and to lend their arms to the fair travellers
when the exigencies of the case require them to dismount and proceed on
foot.

In making purchases, as in the choice of inns, travellers should be
cautious of following blindly the advice of the guide, who too often regards
the percentage offered or the quantity of liquor supplied to him more
than the interest of his employer.

§ 10. HOBBEB AND MULES.— CHAISES-l-POBTEtntS«

Previous to 1800, or even later, until Napoleon commenced the tnagnifi*
cent carriage-roads over the Alps, which will assist in immortalising his
name, the only mode of conveying either passengers or goods across them
^ras on the back of men, or of horses or mules. Even now, upon all the
minor passes, the entire traffic is carried on by the same means. In other
instances, where the beauties of scenery attract an influx of strangers,
mules are kept for their conveyance, even where they are not required
for the transport of merchandise.

"The customary hire of a horse or mule throughout Switzerland, gene-
lally fixed by a printed tariff, amounts to 10 fr. a-day, and 1 fr. or 2 fr. to
the man who takes care of it ; at Chamouni it is 6 fr., but there a guide
must also be taken. Back-fare must be paid if the animals are dismissed
at a distance from home, and at so late a|i hour of the day that they can-
not letum before night.

The ponies that are used in the Bernese Oberland, on the Eigi, and in
other parts of Switzerland, are clever animals, that will carry you up and
down ascents perfectly impracticable to horses unused to the mountains ; but
theyare perhaps excelled by the mules of Chamouni and other parts of Savoy.
Of these Hie sagacity, strength, and sureness of foot are really wonderful.

b 2

3tXViil § 10. — HORSES AND MULKS, § 11.— SWISS INNS.

The paths which they ascend or descend with ease are steeper than any
staircase, sometimes with ledges of rock, 2 or 3 ft. high, instead of steps.
Sometimes they are covered with broken fragments, between which the beasts
must pick their way, at the risk of breaking their legs ; at others they tra-
verse a narrow ledge of the mountain, with an abyss on one side and a wall
of rock on the other. In such dangerous passes the caution of the animal
is very remarkable ; he needs no rein to guide him, but will pick his own
way, and find out the best path far better than his rider can direct him ;
and, in such circumstances, it is safer to let the reins hang loose, and trust
entirely to his sagacity, than to perplex him by checking him with the
curb, at a moment when, by confusing the animal, there will be risk of his
losing his footing, and perhaps tumbling headlong. The rider who mounts
a mule or mountain-horse must give up his preconceived notions of riding,
and let the reins hang absolutely loose, otherwise he is in danger. There
are very few instances of accidents from the falling of the animals ; the
only instance within the writer's knowledge happened to a gentleman who
was a great horseman, and no doubt attempted to interfere with his
mule. Those who are incredulous on this point should recollect that the
horses constantly traverse the same paths in perfect safety with heavy
loads on their backs, and no man near enough to interfere with them.
Descending the passes on horseback is very disagreeable, and sometimes
dangerous, and the rider should always dismount when requested to do so
by the guide. In fact, those who can walk at all should, if they have
not too much luggage, only hire the horses to the head of the pass, as
they will be of very little use on the descent. Each saddle has a flap or
pillion attached, on which a knapsack or carpet-bag not weighing more
than about 30 lbs. may be carried. A portmanteau requires an extra
mule. Side-saddles are now to be found wherever there are inns and
regular mules or horses.

A tariff of the prices to be paid for horses in most places is in the
IndicateuVy p. 108.

Those who are unable or too infirm to ride or walk may be carried over
the mountains in a " chaise-a-porteur " (Germ. Tragsessel; It. Portantina),
which is nothing more than an arm-chair carried upon poles by two bearers
in the manner of a sedan. In the Bernese Oberland two bearers will fre-
quently undertake to carry a lady of light weight for many successive days
over the ordinary passes ; but, as a general rule, two, but in some places
four extra bearers must be taken to relieve by turns, and each man expects
6 fr. a-day, and 3 fr. for each day of return. This is said to be a very
uncomfortable mode of locomotion.

§ 11. SWISS INKS.

Switzerland is well provided with excellent inns. The great annual infltix
df strangers into the country is of the same importance to Switzerland that
gome additional branch of industry or commerce would be, and renders the
profession of host most lucrative. Many of the Swiss innkeepers are very
wealthy ; in a great part of the country thtiy dppear to be the only wealthy

§ 11. — SWISS INNS, xxix

inliabitants. It is not uncommon to find an individual in this capacity who
is magistrate, and it has happened that they are persons of sucn influence
in their canton or commune that it is difficult to ohtain redress against
them for an injury or act of insolence, owing either to the interest they
possess with the courts, or to their heing ahsolutely themselves the justices,
^s a general rule, however, they are very respectable men, and no difficulties
with them arise.

The approach to one of the first-rate hotels in the large towns, in the
he^ht of summer, exhi'bits rather a characteristic spectacle. The street
before it is usually filled with several rows of vehicles of all sorts, from the
dirty and rickety caUche of the German voiturier, to the neat chariot of
the English peer, and the less elegant, but equally imposing, equipage of
the Russian prince. Before the doorway is invariably grouped a crowd of
loitering guides, servants, and couriers, of all nations and languages,
and two or three knots of postilions and coachmen on the look-out for
employment.

Couriers, voitoriers, guides, tmd boatmen are apt sometimes to sell their
employers to the innkeepers for a gratuity, so that travellers should not
always implicitly follow the recommendations of such persons regarding
inns ; and it is believed that the list of inns, drawn up with much care,
and given in this book, has rendered the traveller of late years more inde-
pendent of their recommendations. The innkeepers were formerly very
much at the mercy of this class of persons, who invariably fare sumptuously
and certainly not at their own expense ; and it not unfrequently happens
that the attendance which ought to be bestowed on the master is showered
upon his menials. The inns recommended here are from the best in-
formation that the editor can procure, but it is obvious that the informa-
tion must be, with very few exceptions, eight or nine months old at the
latest, and that in many instances it must be much older, and in the
interval the landlord may have been changed, or may have become more
careful from adversity, or careless from prosperity, and the inn may be
completely altered. In the following pages the inns which are believed
hy the editor to be best in any town are mentioned first.

It may be laid down as a general rule, that thd wants, tastes, and

habits of the English are more carefully and successfully studied in the

Swiss inns than even in those of Germany. At most of the large inns,

in addition to the 1 o'clock dinner, there is a late table-d^hSte dinner

»t 4 or 5 o'clock ; and tea may always be had tolerably good ; but,

^expectedly in this land of milk, cream is rarely to be had with it.

Several wealthy innkeepers have even gone so far as to build English

<%e28 for their guests, as an inducement to English travellers to pass

the Sunday with them. Cleanliness is to be met with almost everywhere,

until you reach the S. slopes of the Alps and the approach to Italy.

lu canton Bern, in particular, the inns, even in the small and remote

Tillages, are patterns of neatness, such as even fastidious travellers may

be contented with. Still in many instances, even in first-class inns, the

hoDses are deficient in proper drainage and ventilation, and the passages

ttd staircases are unwholesome and ofiensive from bad smells. Care

should he taken to impress on the landlords how disgusting and in?

toleiable is such a nuisance to English ideas.

We practice 19 now genei-al of th^ waiter rushing into your room befoTQ

XXX § 11. — SWISS INNS — CHARGES.

you and ligMng the wax candles without consulting you. If a traveller
proposes sitting up some hours, he may not object to this ; but it is very
different when, at 10 or 11 o'clock, you retire to bed, to sUep, and the
infliction of a ctiarge for wax candles, under such circumstances, can be
looked on only as an imposition^

The following list of ustud Charges will serve to guide travellers, and
may protect them from extortion and imposition on the part of tKose
tnUKeepers or couriers who may be disposed to ti^e advantage of them.

Zitt of Charges of ihe first'^lass Swiss Hotels,

Fr. fr. o.

1 50
0 50

2 50

3 O
4 or 5 O

Tea or oofTee, morning or evening, with bread, butter, and honey

(egfffl and meat oharged separatSy) •

Ditto m private, eaoh person charged extra
Dejeuner ^ la fourobette (table d'bote) .
Table d'hote at 1 (without vin ordinaire) .

Ditto ditto, at 5

Dinner in private (command^ ^ I'avance dans la salle It manger) .So
Servants^ duiner or sapper, 1 fir. 50 c. ; breakfast or tea, 1 fr.

Bougie, 1 fr. ; Demi-bougie 0 50

Lampe de nuit • 0 50

Bain de pied, chaud ou froid (wnreaaondbky hut usual) • . • 0 50
Servants (service de Thotel), par jour par personne • • • 1 0
From large families, who make some stay, so much is not expected.

The charges for Booms vary according to their situation on the lower
floors, and the views they command ; but the best suite of apartments, in
first-rate inns, ought not to exceed 4 to 6 fr. a-day for a sitting-room or
salon, and 3 fr. for each bed. The SaUes^-manger in the larger Swiss
inns are handsome, clean, and airy apartments. Smoking is not allowed
in them, and in consequence of this, and of a higher charge being made
for meals in private rooms, many more persons take breakfast, tea, and
supper than in the (rerman inns, and the society is more select than in
France or Germany, and may be enjoyed in comfort, the guests being
almost exclusively tourists.

A party of 3 or 4 persons staying a week or more, even in a first-rate hotel,
should not pay more than 8 or 9 fr. each, board and lodging, including
servants, per diem. At Interlaken the charge for good board and lodging
is not more than 6 fr. a-day ; and at some of the baths near Bex not more
than 4^ fr. a-day for those who remain some weeks. At some of the small
inns in remote valleys the charges are absurdly low ; but occasionally the
landlords in such places charge as high as in first-rate hotels in large
towns. Such attempts at imposition may be best resisted by threatening
to inform other travellers.

English travellers halting at an Inn about mid-day to rest their horses,
if there be no table-d'hdte at 12 or 1, should order a dejeuner k la fourchette
(gabel friihstuck), for which they will be charged 1 J or 2 fr. per head. If
they order dinner y they will be charged 3 or 4 fr. for the very same food.
Similarly, when arriving at an inn in the evening, tea, with cdtelettes de
inouton, or bifteck aiix pommes de terre, will replace dinner satisfactorily

i 11. — SWISS IKNS — CHABGES. XXXi

and eooDoimcally. One fr. a-day is usually given to the servants, and is
almost always added in the bill. This includes all the servants except the
porter, who expects something extra.

French is idmost invariably spoken at the inns, even in the German
cantons, except in remote parts, as in the side valleys of the Orisons.
Nevertheless, the German bmguage is a very valuable acquisition to the
traveller. English is spoken in the large hotels.

Swiss inn« have, in general, the reputation of being expensive, and the
innieepers of being extortionate ; of late years, however, great improve-
ment has taken placcu A recent journey through the greater part of the
country has scarcely afforded an instance of either ; but, where such cases
have occurred, notice has been taken of them in the following pages. At
minor and remote inns, manoeuvres are sometimes resorted to for the pur-
pose of detaining the guests.

It is often supposed, and perhaps correctly, that two sets of charges are
made — one for natives, or Germans, and another for the English ; on the
principle that the latter have both longer purses and more numerous wants,
and are more difficult to serve.

The average daily expense of living at the best inns in Switzerland will
vary between 8 Fr. fr. and 10 fr. a-day, excluding all charge for convey-
ances, horses, and guides. Those who consult economy will, instead of
going to inferior inns in large towns, avoid them, and sleep in villages
whenever it is practicable. The German students, who understand the
art of travelling economically, always proceed in a party, and usually send
on one of their number a-head, to their intended night-quarters, to make
terms with the innkeeper, and do not spend more than 5 or 7 frs. a-day.
There is this advantage in travelling with a party, that numbers are more
welcomed at an inn and better attended to than a solitary individual ; on
the other handv when inns are full, few stand a better chance than many ;
and travellers with ladies are allotted better rooms than single men. All
arrangements for the hire of carriages, horses, or guides, should be con-
cluded over-night : he that waits till the morning will generally find '
either the conveyances engaged by others, or the price demanded for them
increased, and, at all events, his departure delayed.

Among the mountains, the traveller may obtain, in perfection, the
small alpine Trout, which are of great excellence ; sometimes, also,
cbonois venison, which, by the way, is far inferior to park venison ;
iiild strawberries are very abundant, and, with a copious admixture of
«ielicious cream, — ^the staple commodity of the Alps, — ^are by no means
to be despised.

Those who enter a Swiss inn, tired, hot, and thirsty, after a long walk
or dusty ride, may ask for a bottle of " limonade gazeuse," under which
name they will recognise a drink nearly resembling ginger-beer, but with
more adcfity, and, when good, very refreshing. It supplies here the place
of hock and Seltzer- water on the Rhine.

Swiss wines are generally condemned. Tolerably good wine is made in
the CSaatons Neuchaitel, Vaud, and Valais ; but is not often to be found at
has. ftench Beaujolais wine is usually the best liquor to be had in all
^ the best hotels. Some persons like a sweetish Piedmontese wine
^h^ttwtes like perry (vino d'Asti), which is common in Swiss innSt

XXXii § 12. — ^DIRECTIONS AND REQUISITES FOR SWISS TRAVELLING.

§ 12. — DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS, AND REQUISITES FOR A JOURNEY
IN SWITZERLAND — MAPS — DANGERS OF ALPINE TRAVELLING — PRE-
CAUTIONS TO BE ADOPTED.

The best season for travelling among tbe Alps is tlie months of July,
August, and September, in which may, perhaps, be included the last half
of June. The higher Alpine passes are scarcely clear of snow before the
second week of June ; and before the middle of October, snow almost
invariably falls on the high Alps : and though the weather is often still
serene, the nights drg-wnn so fast as to curtail, inconveniently, the day*s
journey. During the long days of July and August one may get over a
great deal of ground. In September the days are not too hot for hard
walking, and there seems to be the best chance of fine weather. On an
average there is one season in four "fine, two tolerable, and one bad. Those
who have not seen Switzerland in set fine weather do not know what
Switzerland is.

The first expeditions up mountains produce intense thirst, and drinking
water does not remedy it, for it is caused by a fever of the palate. Tra-
vellers should be cautioned against indulging in cold water or cold milk
when heated ; the guides and natives accustomed to mountain travelling
never drink before resting ; exercise afterwards will render the draught
harmless.

It is tiresome and unprofitable in the extreme to walk along a high
road over a flat and monotonous country, where there is a carriage-road
and conveyances are to be had : here it is best to ride ; the cost of a con-
veyance is counterbalanced by the economy of time.

Aft€r the middle of June, when the season for travelling in Switzerland
begins, little danger is to be feared from avalanches, except immediately
after snow-storms, which occur among the high Alps even in the height
of summer.

In traversing Swiss lakes, implicit reliance should be placed on the
advice of the boatmen, and no attempt should be made to induce them to
launch their boats when they foresee danger. (See Rte. 18.)

In a few spots on the Italian side, and in some spots on the north
side of the Alps, especially the valley of the Rhone, there is malaria in
marshy places and in the districts about the embouchures of rivers where
they empty themselves into lakes, and travellers should avoid sleeping in
such districts.

For many years Keller's was the only map of Switzerland, and is still
the clearest and most portable road map (Zurich edit, best; English
and French copies inferior). Since the government surveys have been
made, more accurate maps have been published. LeuthotcTs (Zurich),
10 fr., is very good indeed; it is clear, and its mountains are more
accurate than in Keller. For those who are content with less complete and
more portable maps there are Leuthold's at 7 fr. and 3 fr. ZiegUr (St.
Gall) has published very accurate but not clear maps, at 8 fr. and 2 fr. A
traveller who is content to pore piinutely over Ziegler's map will fipd it faf

§ 12.— DIRECTIONS AND BEQUISITES FOB SWISS TRAVELLIKa. XXXiii

the fullest and most trnstwoiihy. Geological maps by Studer and Exher
at 22 fr. There are spurious and inferior editions of many of these maps
published in France or Germany, against which the purchaser must be on
nis guard.

Vie Gatfemment Map of Switzerland — scale iMJkBOt or 2-3rds of an inch

to the nu'Ie, published under the direction of General Dufour, and sold by

all the principal booksellers, and analogous to the English Ordnance Maps,

is by far the best. It is comprised in 25 sheets, each containing about 30

miles square, and costing from 4 to 7 fr. This map includes not only

eveiy road and every path of importance, but even every single house

and ham. The execution of these maps is admirable : the mountains

engraved are absolutely portraits. Travellers intending to diverge from

the beaten track, with a view to explore any particular district, are

advised to provide themselves with the sheet of the government map in

which it is included, and to write for it by post to some good bookseller,

8Qch as Lalp, at Berne, if they have not got it. The map of Switzerland

attached to tills volume is divided into numbered squares, which severally

correspond to the sheets of the Government map.

Studer and Escher*s geological maps are elaborate works, the result of
immense labour. Studer halt also published an excellent map of the
country round Monte Rosa (Wagner, Bern), smaller but more correct than
Schlagentweit's. BeiUy's map of Mont JBlanc^ London, 1865, is far the
best tihat has been produced.
See also Introd. to Savoy and Piedmont.

Jtequisitesfor Travelling, — The following hints are principally addressed
to those who intend to make pedestrian journeys.

To travel on foot is the best mode of seeing Switzerland ; and it saves
a world of trouble to have no other baggage than a knapsack ; one contain-
ing 2 flannel shirts, 6 collars^ 6 pocket-handkerchiefs, 2 neckties, 1 night-
gown, 4 pair socks, slippers, thin shoes for wear in the house or a short
stroll when the others are wet through, alpaca coat, thin waistcoat and
trowsers, light hair-brush, clothes-brush, simple dressing and writing
materials, veil, spectacles for ice, woollen comforter, gloves, muffetees, with
a thin paletot or fine light plaid, strapped on the outside, will not exceed
12 lbs. A waterproof is not of much use to a pedestrian, as it is too hot.
A. good umbrella is more useful, and will keep off the sun ; when not in
^ it.is stuck through the knapsack after the Swiss fashion.

The hoots ought to be double-soled, provided with hob-nails, such
M are worn in shooting in England, and without iron Keels, which
aic dangerous, and liable to slip in walking over rocks ; three rows of
i^ are better, and Swiss, nails are better than English, which are
often too hard and slippery : the weight of a shoe of this kind is counter-
balanced by the effectual protection afforded to the feet against sharp rocks
^ loose stones, which cause contusions, and are a great source of fatigue
and^; they should be so large as not to pinch any part of the foot,
^e experienced pedestrian never commences a journey with new boots,
but with a pair that have already conformed to the shape of the feet,
u the boots come to grief, Swiss bootmakers are capable of satisfying an
Englishman's wants. Thick knit worsted socks, double at the heels,
^ ctJtton stockings with worsted feet, ought invariably to be worn, and
flannel sbiits are incomparably the best for all exertion. It is advisable

h 8

IXXiv § 12. — ^DIRECTIONS AND REQinSITES FOR SWISS TRAVEIXING,

to travel in tweed trowsers, not in linen, which afford no protec-
tion against rain or changes of temperature in mountain regions. The
clothes, if woollen, can hardly be too thin or light. In the months
when Englishmen travel it is seldom cold, and often extremely hot.
No one who has not ascended a mountain or a pass in the sun can
form an idea of the intense heat he will be subject to.

Portmamieaus are better in England than anywhere else, but should not
be too large. A carpet-bag or knapsack should always be taken, as a port-
manteau requires a luggage-mule or a porter, whilst a carpet-bag will go
behind the saddle, and the portmanteau may be sent round by the high road.

Knapsacks are of two sorts : mackintosh with stiff sides, and intended
to carry a complete equipment, in which case they should be tolerably
large ; and mackintosh or oilskin without a frame or stiffening, so as to
pack in a portmanteau, but large enough to carry a supply of clothes for a
week or two.

A flask is sometimes carried ; but spirits during violent exertion, and
especially at great heights, are to be avoided : wine diluted plentifully
with water is usually preferred ; but many experienced mountaineers' find
cold tea a better preservative from thirst. Many persons find relief from
the intense thirst by keeping a pebble in the mouth. In ascending to
great heights dried raisins or prunes are also found advantageous.

A telescope is not of much use, as the view is seldom minute. A
" duchesse ** opera glass is far better.

Lee, 440, West Strand, London, bookseller and stationer, furnishes
many requisites for travellers, including a very portable writing-case. No
pedestrian should travel without a pocket-compass, nor without a leather
drinking-cup.

Cards or pieces of parchment, or, better still, adhesive labels, for writing
directions for the baggage (the managers of public conveyances abroad often
insist upon each package being addressed, before they will take charge of
it) ; and one or two leather straps, to keep together books, coats, shawls,
&c., or small parcels, will be found very useful.

The alpenstock is an almost indispensable companion upon mountain jour-
neys, and may be procured everywhere in Switzerland for about a franc. It
is a stout pole, 5} or 6 ft. long, with an iron spike at one end. The
pedestrian who knows how to use it appreciates its value as a staff and
leaping-pole, but chiefly as a support in descending the mountains; it
then becomes, as it were, a third leg. It enables one to transfer a part of
the weight of the body from the legs to the arms, which is a great relief in
descen£ng long and steep hills. By the aid of it also travellers in the high
Alps are enabled to slide down steep slopes of snow with great ease after
some practice, checking the velocity of their course, when it becomes too
great, by leaning back, and driving the point deeper. In crossing glaciers,
it is indispensable, to feel the strength of the ice, and ascertain whether it be
free from crevasses and able to bear the weight. The alpenstock is usually
of fir, but the only trustworthy ones are of ash, and sufficiently strong to
bear the weight of a man seated on the middle while the ends rest on 2
supports. The common alpenstocks are not to be trusted on high excur-
sions ; it is safer to order an ash pole as high as the traveller's chin, and
about 4 inches in circumference, with a steel spike very solidly attached to
the lower end. The chamois-horn often appended to the alpenstocks of

§ 12. — DAKGERS OP ALPINE TRAVELLING. , XXXV

the sbopB is absurd and inconvenient, if not dangerous. (See below for
ice-CLxeJ)

Dangers <f Alpine travelling and precautions to he adopted. — ^Within

tbe last few years the desire to undertake difficult and adventurous

expedidoDS in the high Alps has become common amongst our countrymen.

By many hardy and dangerous exploits they have proved their aptness for

thjs new description of sport, but several fatal accidents, and a still larger

number of hairbreadth and unexpected escapes, have shown the necessity

for imposing some prudential restraint, or at least some increased caution,

upon inexperienced travellers who are liable to be led into danger by the

spirit of imitation. Mountaineers who well understand their own pursuit,

who have ascertained by continued practice the limits of their own

strength and endurance, who know what the dangers of the high Alps are,

and how these may best be avoided, do not require, and would not accept

advice. Those who, with little or no knowledge and experience, wish to

engage in a pursuit wherein they may at any moment risk their own lives

or those of their companions, may benefit by the advice of their veteran

predecessors, provided they will remember that no advice can dispense

with the necessity for practical training, and some familiarity with the

peculiar phenomena of the ice-region of the high Alps. The following

paragraphs are condensed from the 18th chapter of * Peaks, Passes, and

Glaciers,* by Members of the Alpine Club.

The dangers of Alpine expeditions may be divided into two classes —
the real and the imaginary. Where a ridge or slope of rock or ice is such
that it could be traversed without difficulty if it lay but a few feet above
the level of a garden, the substitution on either side of a precipice some
thousands of feet in depth, or of a glacier crevasse, makes no real difference
in the work to be done, though it may have a formidable effect on the
traveller's imagination. Those who cannot remove this source of danger
by accustoming themselves to look unmoved down vertical precipices, and,
in cases of real difficulty, to fix their attention exclusively on the ledge or
jutting crag to, which they must cling with foot or hand, diould avoid
expeditions where a moment's nervousness may endanger their own lives
or those of others.

The real dangers of the high Alps may, under ordinary circumstances, be
reduced to three. First, the yielding of the snow bridges that cover glacier
orevasses ; second, the risk of slipping upon steep slopes of hard ice ; third,
the fall of ice or rocks from above.

From the first and most frequent source of danger, absolute security is
obtained by a precaution generally known, but often neglected. In the
"higher region of the glaciers crevasses, even of considerable width, are
often completely bridged over by a covering of snow, so that no indication
of their existence is seen on the surface of the glacier. The snow bridges
often yield under the weight of a man's footsteps ; in such a case an active
man whose attention is on the alert may sometimes extricate himself at
once, bat it more commonly happens that he falls into the chasm beneath,
in whidi case his chance of life is faint indeed. But if several travellers
are tied together with a stout rope, as it is in the highest degree improbable
that a majority of them should fall at the same moment into the same
crerane, no appreciable danger from this cause need be incurred. Even
two tcavellers tied together may with proper attention avoid this risk, but

XXXvi S 12. — PEECAUTIONS TO BB ADOPTED.

greater security is obtained when they are three or more in number. It
is mainly because he cannot be protected &om this danger that a man
who goes alone over the higher regions of the great glaciers incurs a risk
that must be called unjustifiable.

For surmounting steep ice slopes by cutting the necessary steps the oxc
is the proper instrument, but there is some difference of opinion as to the best
form to be given to it. Considerable practice is required to use this instni-
ment with effect, and few amateurs acquire much proficiency. In consi-
derable expeditions it is well to carry a second axe ; it will sometimes save
time, and supply a serious deficiency if the first should be lost or broken.
A committee of the Alpine Club, in 1864, recommended 3 designs for an
ice-axe. These are to be procured complete of Mr. Leaver, metal-worker.
Maidenhead, at the prices of ISs., 21s., and 22s. respectively.

Crampons for the feet are never used by English mountaineers, nor by
the best guides, who trust entirely to their nailed boots and ice-axes.
Persons who have not suflBcient nails to their boots, may supplement them,
on occasion, by screws of hard steel with square four-pointed heads^
arranged in a convenient way for being driven into the soles and heels.
They are sold in London by Lund, in Fleet-street, and have been found
very useful.

In spite of these precautions a traveller may slip on an ice slope where,
if unchecked, a fall would lead to certain destruction. Against this danger
the rope is usually an effectual preservative. Cases, however, occur wl^ere
the footing is so precarious that a party cannot be tied together, as, if one
were to slip, he would inevitably drag all his companions along with him to
destruction. It is for those concerned to consider whether in such instances
the object in view is such as to justify the inevitable peril of the ascent. .

The danger arising from ice and fragments of rock falling across the
track may, to a great extent, be avoided by a judicious choice of route. Ex-
perienced mountaineers learn to recognize the positions where ice detached
from a higher level descends over a precipice or steep slope of rock. They
either avoid such spots altogether or are careful to pass them early in the
morning, before the sun has loosened the impending masses, or late in the
day, after his rays have been withdrawn.

The ordinary risks of Alpine adventure are seriously increased during
bad weather, and new dangers may then assail the traveller. Masses of
rock are then detached from their previously firm resting-places, and come
thundering down across the track. Falling snow obscures the view and
effaces the footprints, so that it soon becomes equally difficult to advance
and to retreat. Worst of all, when snow is accompanied by violent gusts
of wind, the tourmente, or snow whirlwind, bewilders the traveller, half-
blinded by the fine dust-like snow of the higher regions, and benumbs his
limbs with its biting breath, if he be unable to keep up rapid exercise. A
reasonable man will avoid bad weather in the high Alps whenever it can be
foreseen, or resort to an immediate retreat when unexpectedly attacked by
it. Attention to the bearings of the compass and to landmarks when the
appearance of the weather becomes doubtful will generally enable a party
to retrace their steps. Few summer travellers have an idea of the possible
terrors of the Alps.

The best general rule for unpractised travellers wishing to attempt a
difficult excursion is to take two good guides for each traveller, to trust to

§ 13.— OBJECTS MOOT DESBRVIKa OF NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND. XXXrii

their advice about the weather, to be careful to see before starting that they
are supplied with a suflBciency of good sound rope, and, when the time
comes for mng it, to insist that it shall be fastened round the waist of
each member of the party, so that both his arms shall be free for use in
case of AD emergency. To a neglect of this last precaution must doubtless
be attributed the loss of three English travellers on the Col du Gdant in
1860.

In all excorsicHis on the higher glaciers spectacles of dark glass should
be used to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow. Serious cases of
in&mmation have arisen from the neglect of this precaution. A gauze veil
serFes to protect the traveller in some degree from the effects of the intense
radiance of the sun, and the glare of its reflexion from the snow. Most
travellers in the upper regions lose the skin from every exposed part of the
iace and neck. Glycerine or cold cream is a preservative, or at least serves
to give relief from this inconvenient concomitant of the pleasures of snow-
travelling. Seme persons recommend collodion, especially for the lips,
which are apt to split in a painful way.

Precautions for Health. — Nothing is more conducive to health than the
combination of exercise, pure air, and wholesome enjoyment which is
found by a pedestrian in the Alps. A few simple rules should, how-
ever, be observed : —

If not already in training, be content to make very short journeys at
first, and never allow your feet to blister. After a fortnight's practice you
may undertake whatever you please. Any youth, not of a weakly frame,
can readily put himself into sufficient *^ training " to undertake first-class
excnrsions; but, without some training, the strongest-limbed athlete
would breiJc down.

Immediately on your arrival, after a day's walk, wash extensively with
soap and hot water and change your linen. I fat all fatigued, or if the
circalation be hurried, lie down after washing and dressing, and try to
sleep for a few minutes before dinner. When you have only a knapsack
yon should keep one set of underclothing for the evening exclusively.

After a moderate walk ordinary diet with wine and beer is unobjec-
tionable; but when fatigued by unusual exertion there is nothing so
Mefol as tea. After it you will sleep soundly when otherwise you would
We been disturbed and feverish. A tumbler of lemon-juice, water, and
<^r, if sipped (not gulped down), materially allays feverishness. Lemons
can always be got at the inns.

i 13. OBJECTS MOST DESEBVING OP NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND— THE COUNTEY

AND PEOPLE — ^BATHS.

In order to travel with advantage in a country previously unknown,
something more seems necessary than a mere detail of certain lines of road,
and an enumeration of tovms, villages, mountains, &c. The following
section has been prepared with a view to furnish such preliminary informa-
to as may enable the tourist to turn his time to the best account ; to
dedde where to dwell, and where to pass quickly. The task is difficult :
let this serve as an excuse for its imperfect execution.

XXXViii § 13.— OBJECTS MOST DESERVING OF NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND.

Switzerland owes the sublimity and diversified beauty of its scenery,
which it possesses in a greater degree perhaps than any other country of the
globe, to the presence of the Alps — the loftiest mountains of Europe, the
dorsal ridge or backbone, as it were, of the Continent. These run through
the land, and occupy, with their main trunk, or minor spurs and offsets,
nearly its whole surface. They attain the greatest height along the S. and
E. frontier-line of Switzerland, but as they extend N., subsiding and gra-
dually opening out to allow a passage to the Rhine and the Rhone, and
their tributaries, they are met by the minor chain of the Jura^ which forms
the N.W. boundary of Switzerland. It is from the apex of this advanced
guard, as it were, of the Alps, or from one of the intermediate outlying hills,
that the traveller, on entering the country, obtains the first view of the
great central chain. From the brow of the hill, at the further extremity of
a landscape composed of imdulating country — ^woods, hills, villages, lakes,
and silvery, winding rivers — sufficient of itself to rivet the attention, he
will discover what, if he has not before enjoyed the glorious spectacle of a
snowy mountain, he will probably take for a border of fleecy cloud floating
along the horizon. The eye, unaccustomed to objects of such magnitude,
fails at first to convey to the mind the notion, that these clearly defined
white masses are mountains 60 or 70 m. off. Distance and the intervening
atmosphere have little effect in diminishing the intense white of the
snow ; it glitters pure and unsullied as if it had just fallen close at
hand.

There are many points of view whence the semicircular array of Alpine
peaks, presented at once to the eye, extends for more than 120 m., from
the Mont Blanc to the Titlis, and comprises between 200 and 300 distinct
summits, capped with snow, or bristling with bare rocks, having their in-
terstices filled with perpetual glaciers.

It was such a prospect that inspired those remarkable lines of Byron : —

" Above me are the Alps,
The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,
And throned Eternity in icy halls
Of cold sublimity, where forms and £alls
The Ayalanche— the thunderbolt of snow I
All that expands the spirit, yet appals.
Gather around the summits, as to show
How earth may soar to heaven, yet leave vain man below."

IAaI of Heights commcmding distant Alpine ^noramas.

Mwntains

Albis . . •
Becca di Nona

Berne . . .

Chaumont . .

Bdle . . .

Faulhom . .

Generoso • .

near to
. Ziirich.
. Aosta.
. Berne.
. Neuchatel.
. Geneva.
. Grindenwald.
. Lake of Como.

MountaisM
Hauenstein
Monterone
Niesen .
Pilatus .
Riei . .
SaTvadore
Weissenstein

near to
Olten.
Baveno.
Thun.
liucerne.
Lucerne,
Lufi^ano.
Sokure.

S 13. — OBJECTS MOST DESERVma OF NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND. Zxxlx

Of these the Bigi is probably the finest, as it is certainly one of the
most accessible ; some give the preference to the Becca di Nona, or the
Fanlhom, from their proximity to the High Alps rising close at hand.
The passion for climbing mountains, so ardent in a young traveller, often
cools; and many who have surmounted the Bigi, the Faulhom or Koth-
hom, and the Dole, consider any further ascents a waste of time and
labonr. Others, however, after having overcome the fatigue of the first
10 or 12 days, begin to feel a desire to ascend more and more difficult
heists and passes ; and this desire not unfrequently becomes quite a

For a near view of Alpine scenery, amidst the recesses of the mountainsi
the spots which afford a concentration of the most grand and sublime
objects are the valleys of the Bernese Oberland, those which descend from
Monte Eosa, especially the valleys of Zermatt and Maougnaga, and those
around the base of Mont Blanc, including, of course, Chamnouni. It is in
these three districts that the combination of fine forms and great elevation
in the mountains— of vast extent of glaciers and snow-fields, with the
acoompaniments of the roar of the avalanche and the rush of the falling
torrent — are most remarkable. Here, in particular, the glaciers, the most
cbaracteiistic feature of this country, are seen to greatest advantage, not
only those fantastically fractured masses of iceberg which descend into the
low grounds, but those vast fields of ice called Mers de Glace. To the
neighbourhoods of Mont Blanc and Monte Bosa must be given the pre-
ference in point of sublimity ; and the traveller will, for this reason, do
well in reserving them for the termination of his tour, and the crowning
acts of his journey.

Amongst the remarkable points &om whence a near view of grand
Alpine scenery may be obtained without danger or serious difiiculty, the
following may be selected : —

Mountains accessible to moderate dimberSy commanding near views.

Mountains

iBggischhoTn .
Arpietta Alp

BelAlp . . .

Bella Tola . .

Breven . • .

Cramont . • .
Dreizehntenhom

Gomer Grat . .

tGrauhaupt . .

near to
Viesch.
Kinfisch Thai.
Brie^.
St. Luc.
Chamoimi.
Courmayeur.
TurtmanThaL
Zermatt.
Gressonay.

Mountains
fMittelhom
Piz Languard
Pierre ^ voir
tSchilthom .
fSentis . .
Sidelhom .
tTitlis . .
Torrenthom

near to
Zermatt.
Pontresina.
Martigny.^
Miirren.
Appenzell.
GrimseL
Engstlen.
Leukerbflid.

Those marked with a f are the more difficult.

Of aocessible Glaciers the most remarkable are those of Ghamouni,
Zemiatt^ and of Grindelwald. That of Bosenlaui is celebrated for its
extreme purity, and the dark blue colour of its chasms.

An interesting account of excursions and ascents in some of the wildest

3d § 13,— OBJECTS MOST DESERVING OP NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND.

and grandest parts of the Bernese and Yalais Alps is given by Gottlieb
Studer in a small work entitled * Topographiscbe Mittheilungen aus dem
Alpengebirge.' The first part, accompanied by six panoramic sketches,
was published by Huber (Bern and St. Grail) in 1843. Desor's * Excur-
sions et S^jours dans les Glaciers,* &c., and the sequel, * Nouvelles Ex-
cursions et S^jours,' &c., Neufchatel, 1844 and 1845, contain also some
interesting excursions, but the descriptions are not free from occasional
inaccuracy and exaggeration. The Flore VaUaisanne of Count d'Angre-
ville (Geneva) is an excellent manual for the botanist among the Alps of
the great chains.

A number of works connected with Alpine travel and adventure have
issued from the English press. Amongst so many, possessing various
degrees of merit, and addressed to the wants and tastes of different classes
of readers, a few may be particularly noticed. * The Italian Valleys of
the Pennine Alps,' by the Rev. S. W. Kin^,* and * A Lady's Tour round
Monte Rosa,' are works addressed to tourists of ordinary strength and
capacity ; while * Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers,' by Members of the Alpine
Club; the numbers of the 'Alpine Journal;' 'Wanderings among the
High Alps,' by Alfred Wills ; and * Summer Months among the Alps,' by
T. W. Hinchliff, are designed for the more hardy and adventurous explorers
of the Alps. For solid information, especially on matters connected with
physical science, the reader is referred to the standard works of Saussure,
Professor Forbes, and Professor Tyndall, already mentioned in the preface.

Perhaps the best delineations of Swiss scenery, glaciers, parses, travelling
incidents, &c,, are to be found in the water-colour pictures of Mr. George
Barnard. They combine in a high degree picturesqueness with truth,
having been carefully drawn on the spot. They are far superior to the
views which are to be found in the Swiss print-shops.

The earlier attempts at applying photography to represent the glaciers
and snow regions of the Alps were not successful, but of late admirable
likenesses have been obtained, particularly by Bisson of Paris. Some fine
specimens have been exhibited in London and Paris, and may now be
purchased in both cities.

Lakes, — Madame de Stael has somewhere remarked, on the proximity
of lakes to mountains, that Nature seems to have placed them in the midst
of her grandest scenes, at the foot of the Alps, in order to serve as mirrors
to them, and to multiply their enchanting forms. Lakes are very nu-
merous in Switzerland, and they certainly add a principal charm to its
scenery. It is difficult to classify them according to their respective merits,
as almost every one has some peculiarit}- which characterises it and renders
it worthy of attention. The most remarkable are, the Lake of Lucerne,
which exhibits in perfection savage grandeur and sublimity ; Wallenstadt,
Thun, and Brienz, all thoroughly Swiss ; the Lake of Geneva, or Lac
Lcman, distinguished for its great extent, and for the diversified character
it presents, being at one end rugged and sublime, at the other soft and
smiling : it occupies an intermediate rank between the Swiss and Italian
Lakes. These last, that is to say, Maggiore, Lugano, and Como, may be
included in the tour of Switzerland, either from portions of them being
actually situated within its territory, or from their vicinity to it. Their
character is rather smiling than frowning ; they are blessed with a southern

§ 13. — OBJECTS MOST DESERYIKO OF NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND. xli

climate, in addition to their own attractions ; their thickets are groves of
orange, oliye, myrtle, and pomegranate ; and their habitations are villas and
palaces. Along with the lakes named above must be mentioned the little
Lake of Orta, which, though situated in Piedmont, lies so close to the
Simplon, and possesses such high claims to notice, that no traveller,
approacMng that comer of Switzerland to which it is a neighbour, should
omit to visit it.

The attempt to fix an order of precedence for the Swiss Waterfalls is

not likely to meet with general approval, because much of the interest

coDoected with them depends on the seasons and the weather, as well as

on the taste and temper of the spectator. A fine waterfall is, indeed, a

magnificent spectacle ; but it will be appre'biated, not merely by its own

merits, but, to use a mercantile phrase, according to the abundance of the

snpply. Now, in Switzerland, waterfalls are as numerous as blackberries.

The traveller, after a week or fortnight's journey, is pestered by them,

and will hardly turn his head aside to look at a fall which, if it were in

Great Britain, would make the fortune of an English watering-place, and

attract visitors half-way across our island to behold it. The fact seems to

be that there is a certain monotony and similarity in all falls of water ;

and after the curiosity has once been satiated by the sight of three or four,

it is tiresome to go out of one's way to visit another, unless it be much

finer, and have a distinctive character from any seen before. Thus, then,

there is utility even in an attempt to classify these natural objects.

1. The Fall of the Rhine, at Schaffhausen, deserves the first rank, from
the volume of water ; but it is rather a cataract than a cascade — it wants
height.

2. Fall of the Aar, at Handek, combines a graceful shoot with great
elevation ; an abounding river, and a grand situation. It may be said to
attain almost to perfection — (Temi being a perfect waterfall).

3. Fall of the Tosa, in the Val Formazza : remarkable less for its form
than for the vast volume of water, but in this respect very fine indeed,
and well worth a visit.

4. The Staubbach, or Dust Fall : a thread or scarf of water, so thin that
it is dispersed into spray before it reaches the ground ; beautiful, however,
from its height and graceful wavings.

5. Schmadribach.

6. The Giesbach, on the lake of Brienz.

7. The Fall of the Sallenche, near Martigny.

8. Beichenbach Falls, near Meyringen.

9. The Fall of Pianazzo, or of the Medessimo, on the Spliigen.

10. Turtman Fall, near the Simplon road.

11. Cascade du Dard, Chamouni.

12. Fall of the Sand Bach above the lower Sand Alp, Canton of Glams.
This fall would rank high in the list if it were easier to see it from a
favonxable point of view.

Other falls, too numerous to mention, are not placed (to use the lan-
guage of the race-course) ; though, in any other country but Switzerland
or Norway, they would deserve especial notice.

The clwgP of this ewTHPeTOtion is to spaye the tray^Uer a long walk, OT

Xlii $ 13.— K)BJECT8 MOST DESERVING OF NOTICE IN SWITZERLAND.

a day's journey, to see a fall, probably inferior to others which he has
already seen.

The principal and most interesting of the Stoiss Alpine Carriage Passes
(see { 14) are the Simplon, the St. Gothard, the Spliigen, the Bernardino,
and the Bemina, regarding at once their scenery, and the magnificent and
skilfully constructed carriage-roads which have been made over them. Of
passes not traversed by carriage-roads, keeping below the ice, and practicable
for mules, the most striking are those of the Bonhomme, La Selgne, TIte
Noire, and Col de Balme, leading to Chamouni ; the Grimsel and Gries,
branching off at the head of the valley of the Rhdne ; the Scheideck
and Wengem Alp, in the Bernese Oberland ; the Gemmi, one of the most
singular of all the passes ; and the Great St. Bernard, chiefly visited on
account of its celebrated Hospice. Of passes crossing the ice, the most
remarkable are the Strahleck from the Grimsel, Tschingel from Lauter-
bnmnen, Monte Moro and St. Th^odule £. and W. of Monte Bosa, Col
de Collon from Sion to Aosta, and the Col du G^ant over the shoulder of
Mont Blanc.

Alpine Gorges. — Especially deserving of notice are some of the avenues
leading up to these passes ; in many instances mere cracks or fissures,
cleaving the mountams to the depth of several thousand feet.

None of these defiles at all approach the Ravine of the Via Mala, one of
the most sublime and terrific scenes anywhere among the Alps. The
gorge of the SchoUenen, on the St. Gothard ; that of Gondo, on the
Simplon ; and that extraordinary glen, in whose depths the Baths of
Pfeffers are sunk— one of the most wonderful scenes in Switzerland — ^also
deserve mention ; as also the valley of Leuk,

The most beautiful Stuiss Valleys are those of Hasli, near Meyringen ;
the Simmenthal ; the Yale of Samen ; the Kanderthal ; the Valine de
Gruyeres, and Ormonds, or Pays d'en Haut Eomand — all distinguished
for their quiet pastoral character, and the softness and luxuriance of their
verdure — " The rock-embosomed lawns, and snow-fed streams," spoken of
by Shelley. And here it may be remarked that the traveller in Switzer-
land must not suppose that beauty of scenery is confined to the High
Alps : the intermediate undulating country between the Alps and Jura,
which, though still greatly elevated above the sea, may be called the Low-
lands, in reference to the Highlands of Switzerland, abounds in peculiar and
unobtrusive beauties — ^hills tufted with woods, among which picturesque
masses of bare rock project at intervals, slopes bursting with rills, and mea-
dows which, by the aid of copious irrigation, yield three crops of grass a-year,
presenting at all seasons a carpet of the liveliest verdure, and of a texture
like velvet, equal to that of the best kept English lawns ; — such are the
beauties of these lowland scenes. The frequent hedge-rows, the gardens
before the cottages, and the neatness of the dwellings — the irregular,
winding roads, free from the straight monotony and everlasting avenues
of France and Germany — remind one frequently of England. There are,
besides, among the Jura, many scenes of great grandeur ; such especially
is presented by the Val Moutiers, or Miinster Thai, between Basle and
Bienne ; the pass of Klus, at the foot of the Ober-Hauenstein ; and the
I/ac 4e Jou3^,

§ 13. — SWITZERLAND; THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE.

xliii

Glacier PtMes, — ^Those that are the grandest and yet feasible to others
besides first-rate mountaineers, and are also very useful passes, are-^

GoldeCoUon. Moro. Th^odule. WeitiThor.

Col de Geant. Strahleck. Tschingel.

(The Moro, though superlatively grand, is not strictly a glacier pass,
and is very easy. The Th^odule is the next easiest. The Stra^eck is the
most difficult.}

BaHmff^places, — Grood inns, close to fine scenery and pleasant walks,
mtshle for a stay of some days.

lA are the very best. B are good mountain-quarters.

i^gischhom .* A Luc, St B

BelAlp A

Bex (MonchAlet) ...... a

Bvnm Hotel (L. Geneva) . . . aa

Chamoani aa

Champ^ A

CombftUas A

Como L^e (several) . . . . aa

Conrmayeur . .••*.•. A

Diablerets . . A

Engelberg a

EngsUen b

Evolena b

Fobello B

Goiera Lake, head of, several pen-
sions A

Gervais, St. a

Giesbach aaa

Glion (L. Geneva) a

GTessonay A

Grindelwald aaa

Kandersteg b

KaltBadonBigi aa

Lugano

Moritz, St A

Miirren a a

Macugnaga a

Oochy . AA

Pontresina . b

Presa b

Kagatz A

Beichenbach A A

Bhone Glacier Inn A

Bigi Kaltbad aa

„ Scheideck A

Bosenlaui a a

Saas B

Samader b

Seelisberg a

Stachelberg a

Stresa (L. Haggiore) . . . . aa

Tarasp a

Weissbad b

Zermatt a

Switzerland covers 14,000 square miles, and in 1850 there were
2,420,000 Inhab. ; 1,420,000 Prot., 970,000 Cath. : 1,670,000 speak
Gennan, 474,000 French, 176,000 Italian dialects.

PopwZa«»<w— Census of 1860 :— 2,511,494 souls. Males, 1,236,363;
females, 1,274,131. By the emigration of males they are only as 1000 to
nil females in the Grisons, and to 1269 in the Tessin.

Tbe ooUectiye population of the 28 diminutive capitals of the cantons is
only 281,943 souls ; 137,120 males and 146,823 females.

There are 1,023,430 Catholics, 1,476,982 Protestants, and 4216 Jews ;
Aowing an increase of 50 per cent, of the last-mentioned religion.

0-695, or 367,065 families, speak German; 0*234, or 123,438 families,
BP«A French ; 0-064, or 28,697 families, speak Italian ; lastly, 0'017, or
^5fisnilies, belong to the Bomansoh language spoken in a part of the
Cfrisong.

I'oreigners in 1850, 60,000 or A ; in 1860, 114,961, or tSb-

Showing how much land is necessary for the support of the Alpine popu-
lation in tbe higher valleys.

xliv § 13. — ^SWITZERLAND; THE COUNTRY AND PEOPLE.

The smiling valley of Muotta has only 1664 inhabitants, although it is
18 miles long and fertile, Urseren supports only 1326. In the Vallais,
the fine valley of Anniviers, although studded with numerous villages and
hamlets, has only 1888 inhabitants. The Visperthal with Saas, 4859.
Entremont and Ferret together, 5747. Kerens, also in Vallais, 4755.
The Val d'lUiera, 2520.

Illegitimate children are on the increase. In the canton of Vaud, from the
year 1803 to 1820, they were 2*75 per cent, of the population ; from 1851
to 1860, 6*36 per cent. In the canton of Ztirich, 5 per cent. ; in Thurgovia,
4*51 per cent. ; in Glarus, 1*70 per cent. ; in Prussia, 7'60 per cent. ; in
France, 7*29 per cent. ; in Sweden, 9*33 per cent. ; in Saxony, 14*34 per
cent. ; in Bavaria, 20*73 per cent. •

The only source of income of the Federal Government is the produce of
the custom-house duties. It was in 1853, 5,884,000 frs. ; in 1856,
6,160,000 frs. ; in. 1857, 6,494,000 frs.; in 1858, 6,874,000 frs. ; in 1859,
7,476,000 frs. ; in 1860, 7,765,000 frs. ; in 1861, 8,137,000 frs.

With regard to the natural beauties of Switzerland, there can be but
one sentiment of admiration. On the subject of the moral condition of
the Swiss, and of their character as a nation, th^re is much variety of
opinion. The Swiss with whom the traveller comes into contact, especi-
ally the German portion of them, are often sullen, obstinate, and dis-
agreeable, and he is annoyed by the constant mendicancy of the women
and children, even in remote districts, and on the part of those who are
not, apparently, worse off than their neighbours. This disposes the
traveller to dislike and to take very little interest in the people amongst
whom he is travelling; he has also heard much of their timeserving,
their love of money, and their readiness to fight for any paymaster in
former times, and he at once dismisses them from his thoughts, and
regards them pretty much as Childe Harold regarded the Portuguese. It
may be doubted, however, whether an ordinary traveller is competent to
form an opinion of the whole nation from those classes with which he is
thrown into contact, and which have been taught to make him their prey.
And, whatever may be the case as to the Swiss individually, yet, looked
at as a nation, they are in many respects deserving of admiration, as
being the only nation in continental Europe where practical liberty
has been continually enjoyed since the peace in 1815. Mr. Grote, the
historian of Greece, in the preface to his admirable Letters on Switzerland
says, " The inhabitants of the twenty-two cantons are interesting on every
ground to the general intelligent public of Europe. But to one whose
studies lie in the contemplation and interpretation of historical phenomena
they are especially instructive ; partly from the many specialities and
differences of race, language, religion, civilization, wealth, habits, &c.,
which distinguish one part of the population from another, comprising
between the Khine and the Alps a miniature of all Europe, and exhibiting
the fifteenth century in immediate juxta-position with the nineteenth ;
partly from the free and unrepressed action of the people, which brings
out such distinctive attributes in full relief and contrast. To myself in
particular they present an additional ground of interest from a certain
political analogy (nowhere else to be found in Europe) with those who
prominently occupy my thoughts, and on the history of wJioi?i I fn^
engaged— the a^cie^it) Greeks/*

§ 13.-H5WlT2fiRLAKD ; THfi CO0KTRY AND PEOPLE. xlv

^e Siie 80 accustomed to look upon Switzerland as "the land of
liberty ,'* that the generality of travellers will take the thing for granted ;
and it is only after diving to a certain depth in Swiss annals, that the
quesUon arises, what was the nature of this freedom, and how far was it
calculated to foster nobility of sentiment and public spirit among the
people? Was the abolition of the Austrian dominion succeeded by a
more equitable government, extending to all the same privileges, and
dividing among all alike the public burden? Was political equality
accompanied by religious tolerance and harmony ? Did the democratic
principle produce fruit in the disinterestedness and patriotism of tho
children of the land? To all these inquiries there remains but one
answer — a negative. The cow-herds of Uri, Schwytz, and Unterwalden,
and the still more democratic communities of the Orisons, who had
80 nobly, and with so much moderation, emancipated themselves from a
foreign yoke, in process of time became themselves the rulers of subject
states, and, so far from extending to them the liberty they had so dearly
purchased, and which they so highly valued, they kept their subjects in
the most abject state of villenage ; so that, down to the end of the last
century, the vassals of no despotic monarch in Europe exhibited a picture
of equal political debasement. The effects of this tyrannical rule were
equally injurious to the governors and the governed, and the marks of it
may be traced in many parts of Switzerland, even down to the present
day, in the degraded condition of the people, morally as well as physically.
It will be discovered from Swiss history that ambition, and a thirst for
territorial rule, are inherent in republics as well as in monarchies, as we
may learn from the encroachments and aggrandizing spirit of canton Bern.
She retained, as tributary to her, for two centuries and a half, the district
called Pays deYaud, deriving from it an annual revenue of 1,200,000
francs, and yet denying to tibe inhabitants all share of political rights.
Geneva, a weaker state, after throwing off the yoke of the Dukes of Savoy,
with difficulty escaped the wiles of the Bernese government, which would
have plunged her into a slavery not more tolerable than that from which
she had just escaped.

Beligious dissensions were a source of a long series of troubles to the
Confederation, dividing it into two opposite parties, which not only were
strayed against each other in the field of battle, but also interfered with
the internal peace of the individual cantons. Although by the laws the
two parties in religion were allowed equal freedom of worship, the enjoy-
ment of this privilege was embittered to either party, in the state where
the other faith was predominant : it was, in fact, but a nominal tolerance.
Down to the times of the French revolution, the common people of
Switzerland, except in one or two of the cantons, had no more share in
the constitutional privileges, which all Swiss were supposed to possess as
their birthright, than the subjects of the despotic monarchies of Austria
<« Prussia. The government was vested in the hands of aristocratic
olig^odues, as exclusive, and as proud of birth, blood, and descent, as
the most ancient nobility in Europe. The burgher patricians of the great
towns managed, by gradual encroachments, to deprive the lower orders of
the exerdse of their rights, and gradually monopolised all places and
offices for themselves and their children ; and even in some of the small
cantons, where the constitution had been for ages in theory a pure de-

Xlvi • § 13. — SWITZERLAND ; THE COtJNTRY AND PEOPLE*

mocracy, every male above the age of 20 having a vote, the result no*^
iinfrequently was, that the same persons, and their children after them,
were always elected to the offices of trust and power.

The twenty-two cantons of which Switzerland is now composed were
first united in 1814, when the old aristocracies were generally restored.
Each canton had a vote in the annual diet, and whilst the diet was not
sitting, by a most extraordinary arrangement, Beme, Lucerne, and Ziirich.,
were alternately the Torort, or presiding canton, and had the supreme
government. In 1830 many of the cantons made great changes in their
government, and the power of the old aristocracies was much reduced ;
the larger cantons becoming somewhat democratic in tendency, after tlie
French model, and wishing to introduce great changes. The old mountain-
cantons, however, Lucerne, Fribourg, Yalais, Schwyz, Uri, Zug, and
Unterwalden, were perfectly contented with their forms of government.
From their geographical position it was impossible for them ever to
become rich or commercial, and they probably perceived that the changes
would do them no good, and would no doubt increase their taxation, and
they wished to be let alone — a feeling in which most Englishmen will
sympathise. It must, however, be added that these cantons are all
catholic, and entirely subjected to their priests ; generally very poor, and
with a tendency to oppress their protestant fellow-citizens. In pursuance
of their views they, in 1841, formed a league, or Sonderbund, to oppose
by force, if necessary, the suppression of certain convents, and to main-
tain the Jesuits. It was clear that whether their objects were right or
wrong such a combination could not be permitted, and it was accordingly
put down in 1847 by force, not without bloodshed. Since that time
nearly all the cantons who nad not altered their constitutions have done so,
and a central government has been established at Berne, which is the seat of
the Diet ; at present in the majority of the cantons, particularly in the
large protestant cantons, democratic principles, somewhat after the French
model, have prevailed ; and in the Diet the democratic, or radical party as
it is called, has had the majority. Whatever may be thought of lieir
principles, and although there are to be found amongst them many men
full of the wild designs and vague aspirations common on the Continent,
it must be admitted that hitherto they have behaved with moderation,
and have effected many excellent changes, though with a great increase of
taxation. The electric telegraph has been established, railways intro-
duced ; the coinage instead of being the worst has been made the best in
Europe ; diligences and posting established ; tolls on roads abolished ;
custom-house duties imposed on bulky articles only, so that passengers'
luggage is not examined ; and a large sum is devoted every year to the
making and maintaining the roads. These are not small improvements
in seven or eight years, and it does not appear that any oppression has
been exercised, unless the suppression of some convents, and the expulsion
of the Jesuits, can be looked upon in that view. Up to the present time
the Diet has acted with great prudence ; internally, where it has to contend
with the jealousies of the cantons and the intolerance of the two religions—^
the discontent of the old cantons and the violence of the extreme democrats ;
and externally, where it has a difficult task between the gteat govetnments
of France and Austria. The history of Switzerland up to 1840 is very
well related in the History of Switzerland published by the Usefid Know-

§ 13. — SWlTZEELAND ; THE COtJNTRV AND PEOPLE. xlvli

ledge Sodety; and a YolmninouB liistory (FreDcli and German) up to
1842 lias Wd compiled by Miiller. From that time, with the ezception
of Mr. Grote^s Letters, wluch only relate to four or five years, there seems
to he no compilation giving the general history of the country.

The trsFeller at all events should he slow to find fault with the Swiss
goveniiDeDt There are no passports, no custom-houses, no tolls, no gex^-
darmes,' none of those ridiculous restrictions to prevent people from incur-
ring danger which are so annoying in France and Germany ; and no inter-
ferenoe whatever with individual absolute freedom (with the exception of
some vexatious regulations as to guides lately introduced), whilst there
are nearly everywhere good inns, good roads, and tolerable means of
locomotion.

The Toivns of Switzerland exhibit many interesting marks of anti-
qaity: their buildings are frequently found unchanged since a very
early period ; and in Lucerne, Freyburg, Basle, Bellinzona, and in
several other instances, the feudal fortifications, with battlements and
watch-towers, remain perfectly preserved. One characteristic and very
pleasant feature are the Fountains, the never-failing ornament of every
Swiss town and village. They usually consist of a Gothic ornamented
pillar, surmounted by the figure of a man, usually some hero of Swiss
history, either Tell, the dauntless crossbowman, or Winkelried, with his
" sheaf of spears." Sometimes the figures of animals are substituted for
the human form.

The Swiss, as compared with other nations on the Continent, have a
respect for antiquity which we in England should consider decidedly
an aristocratic feeling. The old heroes of the country are held in great
veneration, and there is no feeling of hatred for the former noble families.
Each canton also puts up its coat-of-arms in every place where heraldic
display would "be at all admissible.

A singular custom, cozmected with education, prevails in some parts

of Switzerland, which deserves notice here, from the influence which it

eierdses over society. In many of the large towns, children of the same

age and sex are associated together by their parents in little knots and

clubs, called Societes de Dimanche, The parents seek out for their

children an eligible set of companions when they are dtill quite young.

The parties so formed amount to twelve or fifteen in number, and the

variation of age between them is not more than two or three years. All

tiie members meet in turn on Simday evenings, at the houses of their

parents, while children, to play together and partake of tea, cakes, and

sweetmeats, attended by their bonnes or nurses ; when grown up, to pass

the eyening in other occupations and amusements suited to their age. At

*^ meetings not even orothers or sisters are present, except they are

memhers of the society. From thus being constantly thrown together on

^ occasions, a strict friendship grows up among the members of each

^Jroiherhood or sisterhood, which generally lasts through life, even after

*he parties are settled and dispersed about the world. The females, even

when grown up, distinguish their companions by such endearing terms as

"mamignonne,** " mon coeur," " mon ange," &c. This practice renders

Swiss society very exclusive, and few strangers, however well introduced,

penetrate below the surface. When a young woman marries, her husband

Xlviii § 13. — SWITZERLAND ; JftTSBASDRV.

is admitted into the society to which she belongs, and thus the Wife de^
tennines the caste of the husband.

Costumes distinguishing the people of each canton were nearly universal
before 1830. They are now rapidly disappearing, but may still be seen
in the Bemese Oberland, and the women in many cantons have peculiar
head-dresses. The men never wear a costiune, and are usually attired
in brown undyed homespun cloth.

Hanz de Vaches, — It is not uncommon to find the Ranz de Vaclies
Spoken of, by persons unacquainted with Switzerland and the Alps, as a
single air, whereas they are a class of melodies prevailing among and
peculiar to the Alpine valleys. Almost every valley has an air of its
own, but the original air is said to be that of Appenzell. Their effect
in producing home-sickness in the heart of the Swiss mountaineer, when
heard in a distant land, and the prohibition of this music in the Swiss
regiments in the service of France, on account of the number of desertions
occasioned by it, are stories often repeated, and probably founded on fact.

These national melodies are particularly wild in their character, yet
full of melody ; the choruses consist of a few remarkable shrill notes,
uttered with a peculiar falsetto intonation in the throat. They originate
in the practice of the shepherds on the Alps, of communicating with one
another at the distance of a mile or more, by pitching the voice high.
The name Hanz de Vaches (Germ. Kuhreihen), literally covj-rows, is
obviously derived from the order in which the cows march home at
milking-time, in obedience to the shepherd's call, communicated by the
voice, or through the Alp-horriy a simple tube of wood, wound round with
bark, five or six feet long, admitting of but slight modulation, yet very
melodious when caught up and prolonged by the mountain echoes. In
some of the remoter pastoral districts of Switzerland, from which the
ancient simplicity of manners is not altogether banished, the Alp-horn
supplies, on the higher pastures, where no church is near, the place of the
vesper-bell. The cow-herd, posted on the highest peak, as soon as the
sun has set, pours forth the first four or five notes of ^the Psalm, " Pi^se
God the Lord ;" the same notes are repeated from distant Alps, and all
within hearing, uncovering their heads and bending their knees, repeat
their evening orison, after which the cattle are penned in their stalls, and
the shepherds betake themselves to rest.

A word may be said on Swiss Husbandry to draw the attention of such
persons as take an interest in the subject, to one or two practices peculiar
to the country. The system of irrigating the meadows is. carried to a
very great extent and perfection ; the mountain-torrents are turned over
the fields by means of trenches and sluices, and not unfrequently, when
the ground is much inclined, the stream is conducted to the spot where it
is required through troughs hollowed out of the stem of fir-trees. The
trenches sometimes extend for miles. The drainings of dunghills, cow-
houses, and pigsties are not allowed to run to waste, but are carefully
collected in a vat by the farmer, and at the fit moment carried out in carts
to the fields, and ladled over them, very much to their benefit, and to the
equal disgust of the olfactory nerves of all who pass ; the air, far and near,
being filled with this truly Swiss fragrance. Tlie industry of the people
and their struggles for subsistence, in some of the high valleys, are truly
wonderful. The grain-crops are wretched, but the grass is sweet and

§ 13. — SWITZERLAND; BIFLEMEN. xlix

good. (See § 15.) In the best and lowest pasturages they get three crops

a-year. The cattle feed on the high mountains during the summer, and

are supported in chalets by the hay of the valley during the long winter.

An Englishman accustomed to buy evenrthing, can hardly realise the

domestic economy d a Swiss peasant. He has his patches of wheat, of

potatoes of barley, of hemp, of flax, and, if possible, of vines ; his own

cows, Ids own goats, his own sheep. On tiie produce of his own land and

flocks he feeds ; his clothes are of homespun, from the wool of his sheep ;

his linen and the dresses of the women of his family are made from ms

own flax or hemp, frequently woven by the women of his own family.

The timber he requires for his house or for firing is supplied from the

laod of the commune or parish, either for nothing or for a very small sum.

What little money he requires is derived from the sale of cheese. The

interior economy of a Swiss village is very interesting: it is only by

ingenious contrivances for saving labour and by amazing industry that it

is possible for the inhabitants to maintain themselves in such a climate.

The Swiss mountaineers are skilful marksmen with the rifle, and, like
their neighbours the Tyrolese, meet constantly to practise and ei^age in
trials of skill. There are clubs or societies in almost every valley and
parish, and constant matches between them ; besides which, in most of the
cantons, and every year, a grand Federal Bifle Match is held near one or
other (k the large towns, at which all the best shots from the whole of
Switzerland meet to contend for a prize. The late Lord Vernon gained
^Q first prize at the Federal Match held at Basle, 1849.

There is no regvlar army in Switzerland, nor, with the exception of a
few superior officers, is there any one who makes the army his exclusive
profesdon. Every Swiss able-bodied man is however a soldier, and up to
a certain age is called out for some weeks in the year to be drilled. This
duty does not seem to be unpopular with the men, but their parents croak
over the feasting and other extravagancies on these occasions. Large bodies
of soldierlike men are occasionally met with, going to or returning from
tiieir ftTiTiTifl.1 drill. The army was divided on Jan. 1, 1863, into 3 de-
scriptions of service, according to their age, viz. the Elite or Contingent^
83,900; the i2c«cn;e, 43,700; the Xarwiti^Ar, 68,700 ; wA Federal Staffs
637. Also the whole male population between 18 and 44, amounting to
340,000 men, are supposed to be available on an emergency. There are
some crack corps, admission to which is obtained by exhibiting unusual
ate]! with Ihe rifle. The Swiss are by no means indisposed for fighting
in iheir domestic disputes, and the contests between the different parties
have been sanguinary and well contested.

AmnuJ contests in vrrestlin^ also (called Schwvng Feste) are held in
differoit parts of Switzerland. The cantons which distinguish themselves
for skill in this and other athletic exercises are Bern, Appenzell, and
Untorwalden.

hx ihe mountains everything is carried on men's and women's backs.
Childim of nine or ten are seen with a little wooden frame on their backs ;
as they grow older the size of the frame increases, and the weights which
the men carry are surprising : 70 or 80 lbs. for 4 or 5 hours over the moun-
tains. A man will carry 45 lbs. from Meyringen to Guttanen, 3 hours up
a mountain-path,^ for 2 francs, or up the Big! for 4^ francs.
Baths avid Kurs, — In the course of this work baths will constantly be

»>

1 § 14r. — ^ALPINE PASSES.

mentioned* There are many mineral springs in Switterkhd, mucbre--
gorted to by the Swiss themselves and by foreigners, but treated with utter
neglect by the English, not one in a thousand of whom ever goes througli
a course of these baths. The arrangements are generally very rough ; and
there is an empiric course, or " kur," prescribed for each, from which
benefit is supposed to be derived. There are other " kurs " in which faitih
is placed by foreigners. At Oais and other places the patient is put npon
a diet of the milk left after cheese has been made : this is called '* cure an
petit lait.** Near Vevay the grape " kur " is popular. The white sorts
only are used, and of these from six to seven pounds are not unfirequently
consumed in one day. The grapes are only eaten in the morning and
forenoon, the other diet being chiefly animal, neither vegetables, milk,
coffee, nor wine, being allowed. The grapes are supposed to improve tlie
quality of the blood, and to act on the liver and mucous membranes. It
might be im^ined that the appetite would be palled by so large a quantitjr
of grapes, bvt, on the contrary, it is said to be keenly excited : the ** kur "
is followed during a fortnight or three weeks under medical surveillance.

§ 14. ALPINE PASSES.

Ko part of the Alps is more interesting, either in a picturesque or in an
historical point of view, than the passable gaps or notches in ^e ridge of
the great chain, and the minor mountain buttresses branching from it,
whereby alone this colossal wall of mountains may be scaled, and a direct
passage and communication maintained between northern and southern
Europe, as well as between <me valley and another. It has been, through
these depressions that the great tide of populatiop, has poured since the
earliest times ; from these outlets have issued the barbarian swarms which
so often desolated, and at last annihilated, the Boman Empire. There are
more than 50 of these passes over the Swiss portion of the Alpine chain
alone, or inmiediately communicating with the Swiss frontier.* A list of
the principal passes is given in § 19.

In seeking a passage over the Alps, the most obvious course was to find
out the valleys which penetrate fartiiest into the great chain, following
the course of the rivers to their sources, and then to take the lowest tra-
versable part in order to descend the opposite side. The variety and
sudden transition presented by such a route are highly interesting. Jn the
course of one day's journey the traveller passes from me climate of summer
to winter, through spring. The alteration in the productions keeps pace
with that of the temperatuie* Leaviug bdiind him stubble-fields, whence
the com has been removed and bousec^ he comes to fields y^t yellow, and
waving in the ear ; a few miles farther and the crop is still green ; yet
higher, and com refuses to grow. Before quitting the region of com he
enters one of dark, apparently interminaDle forests of pine and larch,
clothing the mounts-sides in a i^ober vestment. Above this the hay-
makers are collecting the short grass, the only produce which the ground
will yield. Yet the stranger must not ^uppos^ th(it all is b^urenness

* Mr. Biookedon has •dmbably flliutntodthem, boUi wiOi Ids pencil and pen, is Mt beaatifil

woik entitlad * The PMfW of the Alps/ 2 voia. 4to.

§ 14. — ^ALPINE PASSES. U

even at this elevatioiu It seems as though nature were determmed to
make one last effort at the confines of the region of yegetation. From
beneath tlie SDOw-bed, and on the vevy verge of the ghider, Ihe profusion
of flowers, Mr great variety, and surpassing beauty, are exceedingly sur*
jxiaing. Some of the greatest ornaments of our gardens, here bom to
blnsh mueen,— gentians, violets, anemones, and. blue-hells, intermixed
-with bushes (k the red rhododendron, the loveliest production of the Alps,
scattered OFer the velvet turf, give it the appearance of a carpet of richest
pattern. The insect world is not less abundant and varied, — ^thousands of
winged crestores are seen hovering over the flowers, enjoying their short
existenoe, for the summer at these elevations lasts but for 3 or 4 weeks :
a pzematnre winter soon cuts short this brief season of animal and vegetable
activity. Above this region of spring, with its gush of springs, its young
herbage and vivid greensward, its hum of insects just burst forth, and its
nat^iral fiower-beds glittering with rain-drops, that of winter in Lapland or
Bibena succeeds, ^e traveller may form an idea of the height he has
reached by observing the vegetation. Vines disappear at 2000 feet, generally
sooner ; oak-trees and wheat at 3000 feet ; beeches and barley at 4000 feet ;
pines and firs at 6000 feet. Above 9000 feet flowering plants are very
rare, but np to 11,000 feet they are found in sunny crevices. Above 11,000
feet a few blackened lichens alone preserve the semblance of vegetable life.
It will of course be understood that in favourable situations these limits'
will be exceeded ; in unfiekvourable situations they will not be reached. At
the summit of a high pass and amongst the glaciers the rarefied air is icy
cold, and exerdse and quick motion are necessary to keep up the circulation
of the blood. The s^eeable murmur of falling water, which has accom-
panied the traveller Mtherto incessantly, here ceases, — all is solitude and
silence, interrupted only by the shrill whistle of the marmot, or the hoarse
cawing of an ill-cHuened raven. The ptarmigan starts up from among
&e broken roeks on the verge of the snow-field at the traveller's approach,
and ihe Ifimmeig^er (the condor of the Alps), disturbed in his repast on
the carcase of a sheep or cow, may sometimes be seen soaring upwards in
asacoessioii of corkscrew sweeps till he gains the pdge of the Alps, and
then disappeaifi.

Bueh are the remarkable gradations which the stranger encounters in the
epQise of » few hours, on a single pass of the Alps ; but the moat striking
dinage of all is that from the region of snow and ice on the top of the
iDOontain, to the sunny cUme and rich vegetation of Italy, which ^wait
% traveller at the S, foot of the Alps, (See Bte, 69.)

T^ works of Ilature, however, will not entirely ocQupy the atteution
tudtrander of ^ wanderer m such a pass ) at least a share will be de-
iDsn4ed for admiration <^ thfi works of man. The great highways, pass-
ills for cami^peif over the high Alps, are, indeed, most surprising monu-
XMQis of htuQQftu skiU and enterprise in surmounting what would appear,
tt tnt si^t, to be intended by Nature as insurmountable. T\m» proud
caulMimB of art fbiW th^ valleys, cross the d^ris of rivers <an long
cansemgrs, skirt the edge of the precipice, with walls of rock tottering
0?sr Am, and ioR^nts tiiundenng bolow. Where the stef^p and hard
suifee dt the eliff baa not li^ an inch of space for a goat to plimb along,
ttksjfleconduetod upon hight^races of SQUdmasomjr, or through a notch
bbsM bf gimpowd^r in fhd wall of ig$K* In Vfimy instances a projecting

c 2

Hi § 14. — ^ALPINE PASSES AND HIGH ROADS.

buttress of the mountain has blocked up all passage for ages, saying '' thus
far and no farther:" the skill of the modem engineer has pierced through,
this a tunnel or gallery ; and the difficulty is vanquished, without the
least change in the level of the road.

Sometimes an impediment is eluded by throwing bridges over a dizzy
gorge, and shifting the road from side to side, frequently two or three
times within the space of half a mile. Often the road reaches a spot
down which the winter avalanches take their habitual course every year,
sweeping everything before them, and which, even in summer, appears
reeking and dripping with the lingering fragments of snow which it has
left behind. Will not so irresistible an antagonist arrest the course of
this frail undertaking of man ? Not even the avalanche ; — in such a
situation the road either buries Itself in subterranean galleries, driven
through the mountain, or is sheltered by massive arcades of masonry,
sometimes half a mile or three-quarters of a mile long. Over these the
avalanche glides harmlessly, and is turned into the depths below.

Every opportunity is seized of gaining, by easy ascents, a higher level
for the road ; at length comes the main ascent, the central ridge, to be
surmounted only by hard climbing. This is overcome by a succession of
zigzag terraces, called tourniquets or giravoUe, connected together by wide
curves, to allow carriages to turn easily and rapidly. So skilful is their con-
struction, with such easy bends and so gradual a slope, that in many Alpine
roads the postilions, with horses accustomed to the road, trot down at a
rapid pace. Sometimes as many as 50 of these zigzags succeed one
another without interruption ; and the traveller, as he passes backwards
and forwards, hovering over the valley, is as though suspended to a
I)enduliun, and swinging to and fro. The road itself has a most singular
appearance, twisted about like an uncoiled rope or a riband unwound.

The travelling-carriage descends sometimes rapidly and without inrte-
niption for hours. A drag of tempered iron is quickly worn down, in
that time, as thin as the blade of a knife, so great is the friction ; and it is
usual to substitute for the iron drag a wooden sabot, formed of the section
of a fir-tree, with a groove cut in the centre to admit the wheel.

The winter's snow usually falls upon the Alpine passes more than
5000 ft. high about the second week in October (sometimes earlier), and
continues till the first or second week in June. Yet even after this, the
passage across the neck or Col, as it is called, is not stopped, except for a
few days, until the snow can be cleared away. In some of the minor passes,
indeed, traversed by a mere rough footpath or bridle-path, the traffic is
much increased after the fall of the snow, which, by filung up depressions
and smoothing the way, permits the transport of heavy merchandise on
sledges, which move easily over the surface as soon as it is hardened.

Along the lines of the great carriage-roads strong houses are erected at
intervals, called Maisons de Refuge, Case di Bicovero, occupied by i)ersons
called Gantonniers, who are employed in mending the road and keeping it
free from snow in winter, and are also paid to assist travellers in danger
during snow-storms.

As near as possible to the summit of the pass a So^ee is generally
erected, usually occupied by a band of charitable monks, as in the case of
the Great St. Bernard, the Simplon, Cenis, St. Gothard, &c. The direction
of the road across the summit of the ridge is marked by a line of tall poles,

§ 15. — CHALErS AND PASTURAGES. liii

which project above the snow, and, from being painted black, are easily
recognised. Bells are rung in tempestuous weather, when thet ourmente
is Taging and the mist and falling snow hide the landmarks, that the
sound may aid when the sight fails.

The morzuDg after a fall of snow labourers and peasants are assembled

from all sides to shovel it off from the road. Where it is not very deqp, it is

cleared away by a snow-plough drawn by 6 or 8 oxen. As the winter

adyanoes and fresh falls occur, the snow accumulates, and the road near

the snimmt of a pass presents the singular aspect of a path or lane cut

hetweeo walls of snow sometimes 10 or 20 ft. high. Carriages are taken

off their wheels and fastened upon sledges ; ropes are attached to the roof,

wiici are held by 6 or 8 sturdy guides running along on each side, to

preFcnt the vehicle upsetting and rolling over the slippery ice down a

precipice. More conmionly, however, travellers are transferred to light

narrow one-horse sledges, each carrying two passengers, by which com-

mimication is kept up, except during winter storms, when no living animal

can withstand the fury of the elements. In this manner very high passes

are crossed in the depth of winter with little risk. The spring is a season

duiing which far greater danger is to be apprehended, from the avalanches

which then fall.

The Swiss are essentially a road-making nation, and had good roads when
those of continental Europe generally were still execrable. They bestow
an amount of care and expense in avoiding hills and steep declivities
which should make an Englishman ashamed of the state of things in the
iiflly parts of England. It is, however, strange that, after having spent
enormous time and money in making a road level and good enougn for a
^-coach at 11 miles an hour, they should persist in crawling sdong at
0 or 6 miles an hour.

§ 15. CHALETS AND PASTtTBAQES.

From the mountainous nature of Switzerland and its high elevation^
the greater part of the surface, more than 1800 ft. above the sea, which is
Botlorerock, is pasture-land. The wealth of the people, like that of the
Piitriarchs of old, in a great measure lies in cattle and their produce, on which
voonnt the pastoral Ufe of the Swiss deserves some attention. Thie bright
'^«rdnre of the meadows which clothe the valleys of Switzerland is one of
^distinguishing features of the country ; and the music of the cow-bells,
^i<in)e along by the evening breeze, is one of the sweetest sounds that greet
tiifitttveUer's ear.

^ Alps, or mountain-pasturages (for that is the meaning of the word
flp in Switzerland and Tyrol) are usually the property of the commune ;
^ to common land, on which the inhabitants of the neighbouring town
wjiBigehave the right of pasturing a certain number of cattle, the regu-
iatioDtag to which are often very curious.

*^1he spring, as soon as the snow has disappeared, and the young
p^^wuts up, the cattle are sent from the villages up to the first and
^?''« pistores. Should a certain portion of these be exhausted, they
Jl^iheir quarters to another part of the mountain. Here they stay
"11 about the 10th or 12th of June, when the cattle are driven to the

liV ' § l6.-M3aALETS AND PASTtJUAGfeS.

middle ranges of pastures. That portion of the herdfi intended for a suromer
campaign on the highest Alps remain here till the beginning of July, and
on tiie 4th of that month generally ascend to them ; return to the middle
range of pastures about 7 or 8 weeks afterwards, spend there about 14 days
or 3 weeks, to eat the aftergrass ; and finally return into the valleys al^out
the 10th or 11th of October, where they remain in the vicinity of the
villages till driven by the snow and tempests of winter into the stables.

" That portion of the cattle, on the other hand, which is not destined
to pass the summer on the higher Alps, and are necessary for the supply
of the village with milk and butter, descend from the middle pastures on
the 4th of July into the valley, and consume the grass upon the pasturage
belonging to the coromune, till the winter drives them under shelter. The
very highest Alpine pasturages are never occupied more than 3 or 4 weeks
at the furthest." — Latrohe, The tourist in the higher Alps continually
meets the flocks and herds migrating from one pasture to another, or to
the valley below.

Sometimes the owners of the cattle repair in person to the Alps, and
pass the summer among them along with their families, superintending the
herdsmen, and assistmg in the manufacture of cheese ; and in some parts
there are whole villages inhabited only temporarily ; but in general only a
sufficient number of men to attend to the herds and to make the cheeses
remain with the cattle, in which case the cows or goats belonging to each
owner are tried twice a-year, t. c. the amount of cheese produced in a day or
two by each is ascertained ; then at the end of the season the cheese made
is divided among the owners in the proportions indicated by the trial. The
best cheeses are made upon pastures 3000 ft. above the sea-level, in the
vales of Simmen and Saanen (Gruy^re) and in the Enunenthal. Ihe best
cows there yield, in summer, between 20 lbs. and 40 lbs. of milk daily, and
each cow produces, by the end of the season of 4 months, on an average,
2 cwt. of cheese.

The life of the cowherd (Pr. Va&h&ty Gterm. Seftmer) is by no means snch
an existence of pleasure as romances in general, and that of Eousseau in
particular, have represented it. His labours are dirty, arduous, and con-
stant; he has to collect 80 or 90 cows twice a-day to be milked, to look aftet
stragglers, to make the cheese, and keep all the utensils employed in the
process in the most perfect state of cleanliness. The cowherd has gene-
rally, as assistants, a friend (Freund), who acts as a carrier to the low
country, and a lad (Kuhbub). In some parts the herdsmen live for many
months almost entirely on milk and cheese, not eating 10 lbs. of bread or
potatoes in the time. The cattle are frequently enticed home at milking
time by the offer of salt, which they relish highly, and which is considered
very wholesome for them. The allowance for a cow is 4 or 5 lbs. in a
quarter of a year. The Stoss is an extent of pasture sufficient for the
maintenance of 1 cow, or 1 colt, or 4 calves, or i of a horse.

The Chalet (G«rm. Sennhiitte) in which the herdsman resides is literally
a log-hut, formed of trunks of pines, notched at the extremities so as to fit
into one another at the angles of the building, where they cross : it has a
low flat roof, weighted wi& stones to keep fast the shingle*roof and pre-
vent its being blown away by the wind. A building of this kind is rarely
air-tight or water-tight. The interior is usually blackened with smoke
and very dirty, boasting of scarcely any furniture, except, perhaps, a table

§ 16.— GLACIBBS. ly

aad rude l)encli, and the apparatus of the dairy, includiiig a huge kettle
for heating tbe milk. A truss of straw, in the loft ahove, serves the in-
mates for a bed. The ground around the hut on the outside is usually
poadied by the feet of &e cattle, and the heaps of mud and dung render
it difBcalt to approach the door.

There is another kind of chalet, a mere shed or ham, in which the hay
id hoaaed until the winter, when it is conyeyed over tiie snow in sledges
do^m to the vills^es below. A pastoral Swiss valley is usually speckled
over with hats of this kind, giving it the appearance, to a stranger, of being
mnch more populous than it is in reality : in the Simmenthal alone there
are, it is said, 10,000 chMets. This large number of ch&lets is necessary,
becaose everythiiig — goats, sheep, cattle, horses, and food — ^must be put
undsi cover for some months during the snow.

The herdsmen shift their habitations from the lower to the upper pas-
turages, as their cattle ascend and descend the Alps, at different seasons,
and they sometiznes have 2 or 3 places of temporary abode. The ex-
perienced traveller is careful to inquire beforehand what ch&lets are
occupied ; otherwise when in search of repose or refreshment, after a long
day's journey, he is liable to the (Hsappointment, on approaching what he
oonoeives to he a human habitation, of finding that it is a mere hay-bam,
or else a deserted chftlet ; and he may leam, with much mortification,
that he has stUl some tedious miles to trudge before he can reach the
Sist permanently occupied dwelling. What an agreeable contrast to reach
a well-appointed chalet of the better sort, where delicious milk cooled
in Ihe mountain stream, fresh butter, bread, and cheese, are spread out
on a clean napkin before the hungry and tired stranger !

§ 16. GLACUfiBS* (gbbh. gletscheb: ital. ohiacciaia).

The Glaciers are amongst the most remarkable objects in nature : to

tiiem Alpine scenery owes much of its strangeness and sublimity. A

slader may he described as a stream of ice, descending into the valleys of

high mountain chains, fed by the snow which occupies their tops and fills

^ehoUowsand clefts between their peaks and rioges; what it loses by

melting at its lower end is supplied by the descent of new masses from

the upper regions. The snow which falls upon the summits and plateaux

of ^high Alps is at> first a dry and loose powder. The action of the

sun gradually converts this into a granular mass, as the minute particles

aro a^r^ted together in irregulsu: roimdish grains. In this state ihe

eatiie mass appears white and opaque, but the separate grains are

tnaigparent. In the course of successive years, as one layer accumulates

ova another, pressure begins to act on the lower portions of the mass.

The separate grains being brought into contact adhere together, until the

^hole becomes a seemingly solid mass of ice. The accumulation of snow,

pu^ ttansformed into ice^ in the upper regions, may be many hundreds

* The bat Inibnnation respeeting fflacien is to be found in Fkofessor Forbes' * Travels in th«
f^'^mdjmtuded to, in Acaasi^s 'Etades sor les Oladen,' TyndaU's * Glaciers of tho
AiK'oitFtebes's * Oecasional Bapers on the Theory of Glaciers/ Local names for glaciers^

f'tllislfJIm ;. inCbrinthia, Kis ; in the Grisons, Wader or Vedreg ; in part of Italy, Yedretto ;

» tlw YaOaig, Biegno ; in Pie^ont, Ruize ; in the Pyrenees, SemeiUe.

Ivi § 16. — GLACIERS.

of feet in thickness, and the pressure on the undermost pai-t is therefo:i'e
enormously great. The glacier ice yields to this pressure, and is gradually
forced downwards on the slopes of the mountain into the upper valleys
which afford the easiest channels for its descent. The upper granular and
unconsolidated part is called in German Fim^ or Neve in French, the term
Glacier (Gletscher) being applied to the lower limbs of more solid
ice, which stretch down into the valleys. The Fim, or N^v^, is a region
of complete desolation; no animal intrudes upon it save a chance
insect, and only the scantiest lichens appear on the rocks around it;.
The fim occurs only at a height where the snow which falls in tKe
winter does not entirely disappear in the course of the following year ;
while that which falls on the lower glacier is almost always melted in
the course of the following summer, and never combines with the ice.^

Escher has computed the number of glaciers among the Swiss Alps at;
600, and the extent of surface occupied by them at 1000 square miles :
this, however, must be but a vague estimate. They vary from a fe-w
square yards to acres and miles in extent, covering, in some instances,
whole districts, filling up entirely the elevated hollows and basins between
the peaks and ridges of the Alps, and sending forth arms and branches
into the inhabited valleys, below the region of forests, and even below
the level at which com will grow.

It is such offsets of the glacier as these that are presented to the view
of the traveller from the villages of Chamouni, Zermatt, and Grindelwald.
These, however, are, as it were, but the skirts and fringes of that vast ever-
lasting drapery of ice which clothes all the upper region of the Alps. These
fields or tracts of uninterrapted glacier have been called " Seas of Ice "
(Mers de Glace, Eismeeren), and there are three such among the Swiss
and Savoyard Alps, which merit especial mention; that around Mont
Blanc, that around the Monte Rosa and the Cervin, and that of the
Bernese Oberland, around the Finster-Aar-Hom. The last sends out no
less than 13 branches ; its extent has been estimated at 125 square m., and
it is supposed to be the largest in Europe.

The greatest thickness of the glaciers has been commonly estimated at
between 600 and 800 ft. The greatest thickness of the Mer de Glace, on
the N. flank of Mont Blanc, is estimated by Forbes at 350 ft. deep.
Saussure had calculated it at 600 ft. Agassiz assures us that there are
holes in the Aar glacier 780 ft. deep.
Notwithstanding their great extent and solidity, the glaciers are under-

* A serioDs error is conveyed by the common expression, ** the line of perpetual snow," or,
" where snow never melts." There is no spot on the Alps, nor on any other snow-clad moun-
tains, where snow does not melt under the influence of a summer sun at mid-day. It melts
even on the top of Mont Blanc ; but there, and on the summits of the other high Alps, the dora-
tion of the suits beat is so short, that very little is melted during the year, and, for the same
reason, there is very little moisture in the air, and, consequently, very little snow can Ml : and
the greater part of this is carried to a lower level by the storms which often rage round the
mountain tops. What is caUed ** the snow line " does not depend on elevation alone, but on all
the circumstances which affect the quantity of snow that falls during a year, and the quantity that
melts during the same period. It is the limit at which the quantity melted in the year exactly
equals the quantity that has Ikllen. Independent of a certain amount of variation from one
season to another, it varies with the latitude, with the exposure to certdn winds; and even on
the two sides of the same mountain, beinff generally higher on the S. side than the N. The
snow will likewise rest longer, and extend lower.down, upon a mountain of granite than upon
one of limestone, in proportion as the two rocks are good or bad conduetora of heat, and this
|s the ease even in contiguous mountains, members of the same chain.

§ IG. — GLAClEltS, Kii

i^'

uiuj^ a iwrpetual pitxjoss of renovation and destruction. The lower
l)ortions descending into the valleys are gradually dissolved by the in-
creased temperatiire which prevails at so low a level. The siunmer sun,
aided by ivann winds, acts upon the surface, so that, in the middle of
the day, it abounds in pools, and is traversed by rills of water. The con-
stant evaporation, from every part exposed to the air, produces sreat
diminution in the upper beds ; the temperature of the earth, also, nimich
is at all seasons greater than that of ice, melts yearly a small portion of its
lower smface. By the combined influence of these causes the bulk and
thickness of the glacier are reduced during the hot season untU in the
autmnn it has fallen many feet below its ordinary level. The vacancy
thns caused is entirely filled up from above by the winter's snow falling
upon the mountain-tops, and on the whole upper region of the high Alps,
wiich flows into the higher valleys, pressed down by its own weight.
Henceforth the ice-stream, like the river, moves onward steadily by day
and night, and even in the winter, though its progress is slower,

** The glader^s cold and restless mass
Moves onward day by day." — Byron.

It is also sensibly retarded by hard frost, and accelerated by thaw. The
snow which has fallen in the winter on the lower part of the glacier melts
in the spring, as it would on land ; and, on cold nights, the small pools of
water on the glacier freeze, and thaw again under the sun's rays.

The cause of the movement of glaciers has been much discussed and
variously explained. De Saussure supposed that it proceeds from their
wdght alone, and that they slide down the inclined surface of the valleys,
aided by the ice melting below, in contact with the earth. Others be-
lieved tiiat the descent was caused by dilatation of the glacier, in conse-
quence of the water that penetrates the mass of ice, alternately thawing
and freezing. The theory of their motion now generally accepted by
scientific men is that of Professor J. D. Forbes, modifled in some respects
l»y the subsequent researches of Professor Tyndall. Without adverting to
^spated points, which are discussed in their works, it may be said uiat
^er the pressure of its own enormous weight glacier ice becomes plastic and
loonlds itself to the form of the channel through which it moves. It is not
^noommon to see one of these vast rivers of ice turn sharply round a pro-
acting promontory of rock, or contract its bed to less than half its previous
^dth in passing through a gorge, and then expand again in a more open
pvt of the vaUey. The centre of the ice-stream moves quicker than the
a^ which are retarded by the friction of the rocks, &c., and, for the
8Mne reason, the top moves faster than the bottom. The rate of onward
motion varies very muc}i in different glaciers, according to the slope and
the iDass of ice in motion. Opposite the Montanvert the quickest moving
P^ Bwves about 30 inches a day in summer, 16 inches in winter. — See
TjmdaffB « Glaciers of tlie Alps.* .

The surface of the mountain, which forms the bed of a glacier, however
h^ is nibjected to an extraordinary process of grindi^ and polishing
from the vast masses of ice constantly passing over it. The harder frag-
menis, snch as granite and quartz, interposed between the ice and the
rock, act like diamonds on glass, and scratch deep and long grooves on the
surface. The seat of ancient glaciers, which have now entirely disappeared

. c3

Iviil § 16. — GLAOlfittS — CREVASSES.

may still be discovered by the furrows left behind them on the rocks.
These furrows and polished surfaces (roches moutonn^es) are veiy remark-
able above Guttanen on the Grimsel road. The motion of a glacier may be '
admirably observed at the Eosenlaui glacier. The foot of the glacier there,
being on a surface of rock, marks its advance or retrogression daily by the
heaps of rubbish it pushes forwards, whilst on the rocks above may be seen
the moraine of the glacier in former years when it was larger.

The nature of the upper surface of the ice depends partly upon that of
the ground on which it rests : where it is even, or nearly so, the ice is
smooth and level ; but whenever the supporting surface becomes slanting
or uneven, the glacier begins to split and gape in all directions. As it
approaches a steeper declivity or precipice, as in the lower glacier
of Grindelwald, the entire mass is cleft by deep and wide fissures,
which generally intersect each other, leaving crags, obelisks, and towers
of ice of the most fantastic shapes, varying in height from 20 to 80 ft.
Being unequally melted by the wind and sun, they are continually
changing their form and crumbling away, either by their own weight,
or the pressure of other masses. After the difficulties are i)assed, these
aiguilles and obelisks of ice, being pressed together at the bottom of
the descent, close up again, and, as soon as the surface of the mountain
below them is level, the glacier again assumes a nearly level and compact
character..

The Crevasses, or fissures, which traverse the upper portion of the
glacier, before it becomes entirely fractured and disruptured, run in a
transverse direction, never extendSng quite across the ice-field, but nar-
rowing out at the extremities, so that, when they gape too wide to
leap across, they may be turned by following them to their termi-
nation. These rents and fissures are the chief source of danger to those
who cross the glaciers ; sometimes, from their numbers, monotonous
sameness of appearance, and perplexing confusion, by which the tra-
veller is nearly bewildered, and even the most experienced guides are some-
times at fault and lose their way, and have the greatest difficulty in extri-
cating themselves from their intricacies. In the upper regions the crevasses
are concealed by a treacherous coating of snow; and many a bold chamois-
hunter has found a grave in their recesses. Ebel mentions an instance of
a shepherd, in 1787, who, in driving his flock over the ice to a high pas-
turagCi had the misfortune to tumble into one of these clefts. He fell in
the vicinity of a torrent which flowed under the glacier, and, by following
up its bed under the ice, succeeded in reaching the surface of the glaciet
with a broken arm. The man's name was Christian Bohren: he was
living in 1849, and acted as guide to the upper glacier of Grindelwald*
More melancholy was the fate of M. Mouron, a clei^yman of Vevay : he was
engaged in making some scientific researches upon the glacier, and Was in
the act of leaning over to examine a singular well-shaped aperture ill the
ice, when the staff on which he rested gave way ; he was precipitated to
the bottom, and his lifeless and mangled body was recovered from the
depths of the glacier a few days after. It may be hoped that the attention
recently directed to this subject by several fatal accidents may induce tra-
vellers to adopt the predautions already urged in § 12.

The crevasses, owing their formation to the advancing movement of the
glacier, whatever causes tend to accelerate that moromcnt, tend at the same

§ 16.*«I«ACIEBS — ^MO&AIKES. liX

tune to iriden eTigting crevasses snd to produoe new ones. In this way the
wann S. or SJS. wind, called HhB/Shn in Uri and «mong the Bernese Alps, is
very instnzinental in causing the glacier to split, and the load reports
thus occaaioDed, called by the herdsmen the growlings (bnillen) of the
glacier, aie r^arded as a sign of bad weather,* because the same wind,
bearing a current of heated air from the plains of Italy or the Adriatic,
causes rua or snow when this current is cooled down among the higher peaks
of the Alps. Hie traveller who ventures to cross any of the larger glaciers
may, at times, both hear and see the fissures widening around him. The
crevasses exhibit in perfection the beautiful azvre Uue colour of the glacier ;
the eaose of which has not been satisfactorily accounted for. It is the same
tint (^ ultxamarine which the Bhdne exhibits at Qeneva, after leaving
all its impforities behind it in the lake ; and the writer has even ob-
served the same beautiftQ tint in footmarks and holes made in freshr
fiillen snow, not more than a foot deep, among the high Alps. — See
Tyndall's * Glaciers of the Alps.'

The traveller who has only read of glaciers is often disappointed at the
first sight of them, by the appearance of their surface, which is rough,
tossed about in hillocks and gullies, and, except when covered with fresh-
fallen snow, or at very great heights, has none of the purity which might
be expected from fields of ice. On the contrary, it usually exhibits
a surface of dirty white, soiled with mud, and often covered with
stones and gravel. Such beds of stone, dirt, and rubbish are conunon
to most glaciers, and, when accumulated in continuous masses, are
called Moraines^ running along the glacier in parallel lines at the sides
(called lateral Moraines, (German Oandecken) ; or in the middle (medial
MoraiDes, in G^erman Chaffer), and terminal or end Moraines. They are
formed in the following manner :— The edges of the glacier, at its upper
extreraity, receive the fragments of rock detached from the mountains
aroond by Ihe destructive agency of moisture and frost ; but as the glacier
itself is constantly descending, this fallen rubbish goes along with it, in-
creased from behind by the d^boris of each succeeding winter, so ^t it forms a
nearly uninteirupted line from the top of the ice-field to the bottom, thus
forming a lateral moraine. Wherever the glacier from one valley meets
that of another, the moraines from the two unite and form one, running
down the centre of the united glacier instead of along its margin, as before,
thus forming a medial moraine. Such a confluence of m<»*aines is well
seen on the glacier of the Aar (Boute 26) ; and upon the great glacier
of Gomer descending from Monte Rosa (Boute 127) six or eight may be
Ksa nmning side by side, each traceable to its origin by the natui-e of
the iDcks composing it.

'^The numines remain upon the surface of the glacier, and, unless
^^ a very long or very uneven course, they are not dissipated or in-
gulfed. On Ihe contrary, the largest stones attain a conspicuous pre-.
eminQioe ; the heaviest moraine, far from indenting the surface of the ice^
or smkiiig amongst its substance, rides upon an icy ridge as an excrescence ^
which fffes to it the character of a colossal back-bone of the glacier, or
WHuetDDes appeara like a noble causeway, fit, indeed, for giants, stretching
AWBjfiar leagues over monotonous ice, with a breadth of some hundreds
of feel| and raised from 60 to 80 ft. above its general level. Almost every
stose^ however,, rests upon ice ; the mound is not a mound of d^brigij as it
might at first sight appear." — Forbes,

Ix § 16. — GLACIERS — ^MORAINES.

The terminal moraines are heaped up often to a height of 80 or lOO ft.,
and sometimes much higher : the moraines in thp Allee Blanche and. on
the glacier of Blaitiere at Chamouni must be 500 or 600 ft. high. Not
unfrequently there are 3 or 4 such ridges, one behind the other, like
so many lines of intrenchment. The broken stones, sand, and mud,
mixed with shattered fragments of ice, of which they are composed,
have an unsightly appearance, being perfectly barren of vegetation ; but
eBch heap is, as it were, a geological cabinet, containing specimens of
all the neighbouring mountains. The glacier, indeed, has a natural
tendency to purge itself from impurities, and whatever happens to fall
upon it is gradually discharged in this manner. It likewise exerts great
mechanical force, and, like a vast millstone, grinds down not only the
rock which composes its channel, but all the fragments interposed between
it and the rock ; forming, in the end, a sort of stone-meal. The extent of
the moraine depends on the character of the strata of the mountains
around the glacier : where they are of granite, or other hard rock, not
easily decomposed by the weather, the moraine is of small extent ; and it
is largest where the boundary rocks are of brittle limestone and fissile
slate. The researches of Swiss naturalists (Agassiz and Charpentier) have
discovered extensive moraines, not only in the lower part of the Yalais,
but even on the shores of the Lake Leman, at a height of not more than
200 or 300 ft. above it ; indicating that, during some anterior condition of
our planet, the valley of the Khdne was occupied by glaciers, in situations
at present 40 or 50 m. distant from the nearest existing ice-field, and
3000 or 4000 ft. below it. The existence of boulder-stones, so common
on the Jura and elsewhere, is now generally attributed to glaciers, the
boulders having been either carried on the surface of glaciers to their
present position, or floated there on icebergs broken off from glaciers.*

A singular circumstance occurs when a single large mass of rock has fallen
upon the glacier ; the shade and protection from the sun's rays afforded by
the stone prevents the ice on wMch it rests from melting, and, while the
surface around is gradually lowered, it remains supported on a pedestal or
table, like a mushroom on a stalk, often attaining a height of several feet ;
at length the stone falls off the pUlar and the process recommences. The
glaciers of the Aar furnish fine examples of these tables des glacierSy as
they are called. The surface of the glacier has been ascertained to lose
3 ft. of surface by melting in as many weeks of fine warm weather. An
exactly opposite phenomenon occurs when a small stone, not more than
an inch thick, or a leaf, rests upon the ice. As it absorbs the sun's rays
with greater rapidity than ice, not merely its surface but its entire sub-
stance is warmed through, and instead of protecting it melts the ice below
it, and gradually sinks, forming a hole to a considerable depth, and gene-
rally a pool of water, of which the traveller is often glad to avail him-
self: these little pools are generally frozen over at night.

The occurrence of Ked Snow, which at one time was treated with incre-
dulity, is common among the High Alps, and is produced either by minute
insects and their eggs, or by a species of cryptogamic plant, called Palmella
Nivalis, or Protococcus, a true vegetable, which plants itself on the surface of
the snow, takes root, germinates, produces seed, and dies. In the state of

* See an interesting paper on the Ancient Olaeiere of Switzerland and North Wales, by
Professor Bamaay, Local Director of the Geological Survey of England, in * Peaks, Puses, and
Glaciers V kIso published separately.

§ 16.— ^LACIEBS, hi

germinatiaa it imparts a pale carmine tint to the snow : this increases, as
the plant comes to maturity, to a deep crimson blush, which gradually fades,
and, as the plant decays, becomes a black dust or mould. By collecting
some of the coloured snow in a bottle, and pouring it on a sheet of paper,
the foim d the plant may be discovered with a microscope, as soon as
the water has evaporated.

It has been already observed that the vacancy caused by the melting of
the lower portion of the glacier is filled up by the winter snow from above.
But, as may be supposed, it often happens, after mild winters and warm
snnmiers, that the supply is not equal to the void ; and vice vend, after
severe winters and rainy summers, the glacier is overloaded, as it were :
indeed, it is scarcely possible that an exact equilibrium of supply and con-
sumption should be preserved, and there is no doubt that glaciers are sub-
ject both to temporary and to secular variation. The glaciers throughout
the Alps appear to have made a general movement in advance between
the years 1817 and 1822, in consequence of the coldness of the six pre-
ceding snmmers. The glaciers of Bossons and des Bois, in the valley of
Ghamouni, and that of Grindelwald, in the Bernese Alps, extended so far
in width as well as length, as to overthrow large trees of the growth of
many centuries. Afterwards they began to retreat, and soon regained
their original limits. Instances have occurred of the sudden advance of a
glacier, as in the Gadmenthal (Koute 32), where a road has been destroyed
hy this cause, and even of the formation of new glaciers within the
memory of man, as in the Upper Engadine (P), and at the base of the
Titlis : but these have been followed by a similar retrocession, and the
newly formed ice-fields are rarely permanent. It is certain that, at present,
both the Mer de Glace, under Mont Blanc, and the Grindelwald Glacier,
appear to have shrunk, and sunk considerably below the level they once
attained ; but this may be merely temporary, or even only their dimensions
in summer, when most reduced. Prof. Forbes states that in 1845 the
glader of Findelen, near Zermatt, was retreating ; since that time it has
advanced, destroying fields and chalets ; and Sir 0. Lyell has informed the
£ditor that it advanced in 1857, notwithstanding the unusual heat of that
summer.

Professors Agassiz, Forbes, and Tyndall have made some interesting ex-
periments and observations upon the movement and rate of progress of the
glad^rs ; but Hugi was the first observer who attempted to measure their
advance. In 1829 the latter noted the position of numerous loose blocks
lying on the surface of the lower glacier of the Aar, relatively to the fixed
iocb9 at its sides. He also measured the glacier and erected signal-posts
on it. In 1836 he found everything altered ; many of the loose blocks
had moved off and entirely disappear^, along with the ice that si^pportcd
them. A hut, which he had hastily erected, to shelter himself and his
CGmpanions, had advanced 2184 ft. A mass of granite, containing 26,000
cdfaic ft., originally buried under the snow of the fim, which had become
converted into glacier, had not only been raised to the surface, but was
elevated above it, in the air, upon two pedestals, or pillars, of ice ; so that
a large party might have foimd shelter under it. A signal-post, stuck
into a mass of granite, had not only made as great an advance as the hut,
but the distance between it and the hut had been increased 760 ft. by the
expunslon of the glacier. In 1839 M. Agassiz found that Hugi's cabin

Izii § 16. — GLACIERS.

had advanced 4^00 ft. from the position it originally, oocupied, when first
built in 1827 ; and in 1840 it was 200 ft. lower. Hngi's observations on
the Aar glacier give as its rate of motion 240 ft. per annum. The more
recent and precise observations of Professors Forbes and Tyndall have asoer-*
tained the daily motion oi the ice on the Mer de Glace, and proved that it
proceeds regularly, not by fits and starts, but accelerated in speed by thaws
and retarded by frosts, and that the motion is different in different parts
of the glacier. The advance of the ice-field of the Mer de Glace is cal-
culated at between 600 and 700 ft. yearly, or nearly 2 ft. a day ; so that
the traveller, whilst walking over the glacier, is insensibly descending ta
the valley below. .

It is highly interesting to consider how important a service the glaciers
perform in the economy of nature. These dead and chilly fields of ice,
which prolong the reign of winter throughout the year, are, in reality, the
source of life and the springs of vegetation. They are the locked-up
reservoirs, the sealed fountains, from which the vast rivers traversing the
great continents of our globe are sustained. The sunmier heat, which
dries up other sources of water, first opens out their bountiful supplies.
When the rivers of the plain begin to shrink and dwindle within their
parched beds, the torrents of the Alps, fed by melting snow and glaciers,
rush down &om the mountains and supply the deficiency ; and, at that
season (July and August), the rivers and lakes of Switzerland are fullest.

During the whole summer, the traveller who crosses the glaciers hears
the torrents rustling and running below him at the bottom of the azure
clefts. These plenteous rills gushing forth in their sub-glacial beds, are
generally all collected in one stream, at the foot of the glacier, which, in
consequence, is eaten away into a vast dome-shaped arch, sometimes 100
ft. high, gradually increasing until the constant thaw weakens its support,
and it gives way and falls in with a crash. Such caverns of ice are seen
in great perfection, in some years, at the source of the Arveyron, in the
valley of Ohamouni, and in the glaciers of Grindelwald. The streams
issuing from glaciers are distinguished by their turbid dirty-white or milky
colour. The waters collected by the melting of the ice from all parts of
the surface of a glacier often accumulate into torrents, which, at length,
precipitate themselves into a hole or fissure in its surface in the form of a
cascade.

The following striking passage from Professor Forbes's * Alps,' p. 386,
will form a good conclusion to this account of glaciers : — ** Poets and
philosophers have delighted to compare the course of human life to that
of a river ; perhaps a sfiU apter simile might be found in the history of a
glacier. Heaven-descended in its origin, it yet takes its mould and con-
formation from the hidden womb of the moimtains which brought it forth.
At first soft and ductile, it acquires a character and firmness of its own, as
an inevitable destihy urges it on its onward career. Jostled and constrained
by the crosses and inequalities of its prescribed path, hedged in by im-
passable barriers which fix limits to its movements, it yields groaning to
its fate, and fitill travels forward seamed with the scars of many a conflict
with opposing obstacles. All this while, although wasting, it is renewed
by an tinseen power, — ^it evaporates, "but is not consimied. On its surface
it bears the spoils which, durii^ the progress of existence, it has made its
own ; often weighty burdens devoid of beauty or value, at times precious

§ 17. — AVALANCHES AND SNOW-STORMS, Ixiii

masses, sparkling with gems or with ore. Haying at length attained its
greatest width and extension, commanding admiration by its beauty and
power, waste predominates over supply, the vital springs b^in to fail ; it
stoops into an attitude of decrepitude — ^it drops the burdens, one by one,
which it had borne so proudly aloft — ^its dissolution is inevitable. But as
it is resolved into its elements, it takes all at once a new, and livelier, and
disembarrassed form : from the wreck of its members it arises ' another,
yet the same ' — a noble, full-bodied, arrowy stream, which leaps rejoichig
over the obstacles which before had stayed its progress, and hastens
through fertile valleys towards a freer existence, and a final union in the
ocean with the boundless and the infinite.**

§ 17. AVALANCHES — SNOW-STOBMS — FLOODS.

^The avalanche— the thunderbolt of snow." — Byron^

Avalanches (Grerm. Lawinen) are those accumulations of snow which
precipitate themselves from the mountains, either by their own weight or
by the loosening effects of the sun's heat, into the valleys below, sweeping
everything before them, and causing, at times, great destruction of life
and property. The fearful crash which accompanies their descent is often
heard at a distance of several leagues.

The natives of the Alps distinguish between several different kinds of
avalanches. The stavhAawifrien (dust avalanches) are formed of loose
fresh-fiallen snow, heaped up by the wind early in the winter, before it
bas begun to melt or combine together. Such a mass, when it reaches
the edge of a cliff or declivity, tumbles from point to point, increasing in
quantity as well as in impetus every instant, and spreading itself over
a wide extent of surface. It descends with prodigious rapidity, and has
been known to rush down a distance of 10 m. from the point whence
it was first detached ; not only descending one side of a valley, but also
ascending the opposite hill by the velocity acquired in its fall, overwhelm-
ing and laying prostrate a whole forest of firs in its descent, and breaking
down another forest, up the opposite side, so as to lay the heads of the
trees up the hill in its ascent. Slide-avalanches (Schleich-lawine or
Scblipfe) slip down from inclined surfaces often without disturbance of
tbe surface, and it is only when they begin to roll over and bound that
they become schlag or grund-lawinen.

Another kind of avalanche, the Grund-lawinen^ occurs in spring, during
tile months of April and May, when the sun becomes powerful, and the
snow thaws rapidly under its influence. They fall constantly from
Cerent parts of the mountains, at different hours in the day, accordingly
M each part is reached by the sun : from the E. side between 10 and 12,
from the S. side between 12 and 2, and later in the day from the W. and N.
Tbis species is more dangerous in its effects, from the snow being clammy
and adhesive, as well as hard and compact. Any object buried by it
can cnly be dug out by the most arduous labour. Men or cattle over-
whelmed, by the staub-lawine can extricate themselves by their own
exertions ; or, at any rate, from the snow being less compact, may
breathe for some hours through the interstices. In the case of the grund-
hwme, the sufferers are usually either crushed or suffocated, and are, at
any rate, so entangled that they can only be rescued by the aid of others.

Ixiv § 17. — AVALANCHES AND SNOW-STORMS.

Such avalanches falling upon a [mountain-stream, in a narrow gorge,
are often hollowed out from beneath by the action of the water, until
it has forced a passage under them ; and they sometimes remain for tlio
whole summer, serving as a bridge, over which men and cattle may pass.

The avalanches have usually a fixed time for descending, and slu.
habitual channel down which they slide, which may be known by its
being worn perfectly smooth, sometimes even appearing polished, and "hy
the heap of debris at its base. The peasants, in some situations, await
with impatience the fall of the regular avalanches, as a symptom of the
spring having fairly set in, and of the danger being over. In some places
the lower end of a glacier falls at long intervals of years and displays an
avalanche on the hugest scale. Those near Randa, in the Val de Bagnes,
and on the side of Altels, are examples.

Danger arises from avalanches either by their falling imexpectedly,
while persons are traversing spotfi known to be exposed to them, or else
(and this is the more fearful source of catastrophes) when an unusual
accumulation of snow is raised by the wind, or when the severity of
the season causes the avalanche to desert its usual bed, and the whole
mass descends upon cultivated spots, houses, or even villages. There are
certain valleys among the Alps in which scarcely any spot is totally-
exempt from the possible occurrence of such a calamity, though some are
naturally more exposed than others. The Val Bedretto, in canton
Tessin, the Meyenthal, in canton Uri, and many others, are thus dread-
fully exposed. To guard as much as possible against accidents, verj''
large and massive dykes of masonry, like the projecting bastions of a
fortification, are, in such situations, built against the hill-side, behind
churches, houses, and other buildings, with an angle pointing upwards,
in order to break and turn aside the snow. In some valleys great care is
bestowed on the preservation of the forests clothing their sides, as the
best protection of the district below them from such calamities. These
may truly be regarded as sacred groves ; and no one is allowed to cut
down timber within them, under pain of a legal penalty. Yet they not
iinfrequently show the inefficiency even of such protection against so
fearful an engine of destruction. Whole forests are at times cut over and
laid prostrate by the avalanche. The tallest stems, fit to make masts
for a first-rate man-of-war, are snapped asunder like a bit of wax, and the
barkless and branchless stumps and relics of the forest remain for years
like a stubble-field to tell of what has happened.

A mournful catalogue of catastrophes, which have occurred in Swit-
zerland, since the records of history, from avalanches, might be made out
if necessary ; but it will suffice to mention one or two instances.

In 1720 an avalanche killed, in Ober-Gestelen (Vallais), 84 men and 400
head of cattle, and destroyed 120 houses. The same year 40 individuals
perished at Brieg, and 23 on the Great St. Bernard, from a similar cause.

In 1749 the village of Kuaras, in the Tavetsch Thai, was carried
away by an avalanche ; 100 men were overwhelmed by it, 60 of whom
were dug out alive ; and several of the houses, though removed to some
distance from the original site, were so little shaken that persons sleeping
within them were not awakened.

In 1800, after a snow-storm of three days' continuance, an enormous
avalanche detached itself from the top of the precipice of Klucas, above

§ 17. — ^AVALANCHES AND SNOW-STORMS. Ixv

Trons, in the valley of the Vorder Khein ; it crossed the valley and
destroyed a wood and some chSllets on the opposite pasture of Zenim ;
recoiljiig, with the force it had acquired, to the side from which it had
come, it did fresh mischief there, and so rehounding to and fro, at the
fourth rnsh reached Trons, and buried many of its houses to the roof in snow.
In 1827 the greater part of the village of Biel, in the Upper Yalais, was
crushed beneath a tremendous avalanche, which ran down a ravine, nearly
two leagues long, before it reached the village.

One of the most remarkable phenomena attending the avalanche is the
blast of air which accompanies it, and which, like what is called the wind
of a cannon-ball, extends its destructive influence tea considerable distance
on eadi side of the actual line taken by the falling mass. It has all the
^ect of a blast of gunpowder : sometimes forest trees, growing near the
sides of the channel down which the snow passes, are uprooted and laid
prostrate, without having been touched by it. In this way the village
of Randa, in the Visp-Thal, lost many of its houses by the blast of a mass
of glader, which fell in 1720. The E. spire of the convent of Dissentis
was throum down by the gust of an avalanche which fell more than a
quarter of a mile off.

TrsYellers visiting the Alps between the months of June and October
are little exposed to danger from avalanches, except immediately after a
snow-storm ; and, when compelled to start at such times, they should pay
implicit ob^ence to the advice of the guides. It is a common saying,
that there is risk of avalanches as long as the burden of snow continues
on the boughs of the fir-trees, and while the naturally sharp angles of the
distant mountains continue to look rounded.

It is different with those who travel from necessity in the spring, and
before the annual avalanches have fallen. Muleteers, carriers, and such
persons, use great caution in traversing exposed parts of the road, and
"^th these they are well acquainted. They proceed in parties, in single
£le, at a little distance from one another, in order that if the snow should
sweep one off, the others may be ready to render assistance. They pro-
peed as fast as possible, carefully avoicQng any noise, even speaking, and,
it is said, will sometimes muffle the mules' bells, lest the slightest vibra-
tion communicated to the air should disengage the nicely-poised mass of
snow above their heads. These manoeuvres are probably adopted to
astonish travellers merely, for it is obvious that the hghtest summer
freeze must produce more effect than the loudest voice.

The avalanches, seen and heard by summer tourists on the sides of
Mont Blanc and the Jungfrau, are of a different kind from those described
«hove, being caused only by the rupture of a portion of the glaciers,
which give way under the influence of a mid-day sun, and of certain
winds, during the summer and autumn, when other avalanches, generally
, have ceased to fall. They differ, also, in this respect, that,

for ^e most part, they do no harm, since they fall on uncuUivable and
nninhabited spots. It is more by the roar which accompanies them,
which, awakening the echoes of the Alps, sounds very like thunder,
than by the appearance which they present, which is simply that of a
vateifidl, that they realise what is usually expected of avalanches. Still
they are worth seeing, and will much enhance the interest of a visit to
the Wengem Alp, the Cramont (on the S. side of Mont Blanc), or the

Ixvi § 17. — SNOW-STOKMS — ^FLOODS.

borders of the Mer de Glace ; especially if the spectator will bear in xninc
the immense distance at which he is placed from the objects which he sees
and hears, and will consider that, at each roar, whole tons of solid ioe arc
broken off from the parent glacier, and in tumbling many hundred feel
perhaps, are shattered to atoms and groimd to powder.

The Snow-st&nm, Tourmentes, or Ovacen^ which occur on the Alps, arc
much dreaded by the chamois-hunter, the shepherd, and those most accus-
tomed to traverse the High Alps : how much more formidable must t>liej^
be to the inexperienced traveller! They consist of furious and tem-
pestuous winds, somewhat of the nature of a whirlwind, which occur on
the exposed promontories, the sujnmit-ridges, and elevated gorges of the
Alps, either accompanied by snow, or filling the air with that recently
fallen, while the fakes are still dry, tossing them about like powder or
dust. In an instant the atmosphere is filled with snow; earth, sky,
mountain, abyss, and landmark of every kind, are obliterated from view^,
as though a curtain were let down on all sides of the wanderer. All traces
of path, or of the footsteps of preceding travellers, are at once effaced, and
the poles planted to mark the direction of the road are frequently over-
turned. Ldl some places the gusts sweep the rock bare of snow, heaping
it up in others, perhaps across the path, to a height of 20 ft. or more,
barring all passage, and driving the wayfarer to despair. At every
step he fears to plunge into an abyss, or sink overhead in the snow.
Large parties of men and animals have been overwhelmed by the snow-
wreaths on the St. Gothard, where they sometimes attain a height of
40 or 60 ft. These tempests are accompanied* almost every year by loss
of life ; and, though of less frequent occurrence in summer than in winter
and spring, are one reason why it is dangerous for inexperienced travellers
to attempt to cross remote and elevated passes without a guide.

The guides and persons residing on the mountain-passes, from the
appearance of the sky, and other weather-signs known to them, can
generally foresee the occurrence of tourmentes, and can tell when the fall
of avalanches is to be apprehended.

Floods, — In most of the Swiss valleys traces are to be seen of terrible
floods, which have from time to time poured down from the mountains,
and devastated tracts of land more or less large. These floods usually
occur at the melting of the snow in spring, but may happen at any time
of year when, either from excessive rain, or from the too rapid melting of
the snow, or from a dam of ice falling and then bursting, a mountain
torrent swells beyond its usual proportions, and carries down stones, earth,
huge rocks, and trees, sweeping everything before it till it reaches the
valley, when it spreads out, often covering acres of fertile land with rub-
bish, and ruining the land for ever. There is hardly a year in which some
part of Switzerland does not suffer from this cause. A flood in the autunm
of 1852 converted the valley of the Ehone below Martigny into a lake, and
covered hundreds of acres of land with rubbish, which in 1866 remained
untouched and uncultivated. The flood on the same day carried away all
the bridges but one in the valley of Ghamouni ; whilst, above Sallenches,
the river left its bed, and cut out a channel 30 or 40 ft. wide, and 6 or 8 ft.
deep, through the fertile land and down to the bare rock. Great floods are
described in Rte. 56 and Bte. 136. The uj^r part of thej valley of the
Khone is now a desert in consequence of floods, and traces of great floods

$ l8. — GoiTBE JLKD CRSTtKISM. IxvU

may lie seen in the valley of the Rhine and in the vale of Samen, and, in
fact, in nearly every valley. Those who have once seen the recent effects
of a flood wiU soon detect them continually, tiiongh the grass and bushes
in a few years oonoeal the traces from those who do not know where to
look for them.

{ 18. GOItRB and 0RETIKI81I.

** Quis tumidum guttur miratiar in Alpibus." — Juv,

It is a remarkable fact that, amidst some of the most magniiSoent scenery
of the globe, where Nature seems to have put forth all her powers in
excfting emotaons of wonder and elevation in the mind, man appears, from
a mysterious visitation of disease, in his most degraded and pitiable oon-
dition. Sudi, however, is the fact. It is in the grandest and most beautiful
valleys of the Alps that the maladies ofgoUre and cretmiem prevail.

Goitre is a swelling in the front of the neck (of the thyroid gland, or
the parts adjoining), which increases with the growth of the individual,
until, in some cases, it attains an enormous size, and becomes " a hideous
wallet of flesh," to use the words of Shakspeare, hanging pendulous down
to the breast. It is not, however, attended with pain, and generally seems
to be more unsightly to the spectator than inconvenient or hateful to the
bearer; but there are instances in which its increase is so enormous
that the individual, unable to support his burden, crawls along the ground
mider it. On the N". of the Alps women appear to be the principal
sufferers fix>m this complaint, and in the Yalais scarcely a woman is free
ttom it, and it is said that those who have no swelling are laughed at and
called goose-necked. At Domo d' Ossola it seems more prevalent among
tfie men.

Cretinism, which occurs in the same localities as goitre, and evidently
arises from the same cause, whatever it may be, is a more serious maladv,
inasmuch as it affects the mind. The cretin is an idiot — a melancholy
spectacle — a creature who may almost be said to rank a step below a
human bdng. There is a vacancy in his countenance ; his head is dispro-
P^onately large ; his limbs are stunted or crippled ; he cannot articulate
m words with distinctness ; and there is scarcely any work which he
J8 capable of executing. He spends his days basking in the sun, and from
itiinirmth appears to derive great gratification. When a stranger appears,
lie hecomes a clamorous and importunate beggar, assailing him with a
oeaaeless chattering ; and the traveller is conmionly glad to be rid of his
^adeoos presence at the expense of a few sous. Cretins however are now
eite diminished in number or are confined, and the traveller is not
pestered by them as he used to be. At times the disease has such an
effect on the mind that the sufferer is unable to find his way home when
yn&m a few feet of his own door.

Various theories have been resorted to, to account for goitre: some
haye attributed it to the use of water derived from melting snow ; others,
to the habit of carrying heavy weights on the head ; others, again, to
filthy habits ; while a fourth theoiy derives it from the nature of the soil,
or the use of spring-water impregnated with calcareous matter.

As the goitre occurs in Derbyshire, Yorkshire (especially at Settle, in the

Ixviii § 18. — GOiTRE AND CRETINISM.

limestone district of Craven), Notts, Somerset, Surrey, Hants, &c., \vh.cre
no permanent snow exists, and no rivers spring from glaciers — also in
Sumatra, and in parts of South America, where snow is unknown — and. last,
but not least, as no one ever drinks snow-water, which is always dirty, it
is evident that the first cause assigned is not the true one ; as for the second
and third, they would equally tend to produce goitre in the London porters,
and in the inhabitants of the purlieus of St. Giles's. If the limestone tlieory
be true, all other rocks should be exempt from it, which is not the case, as
far as our experience goes. Groitre is found only in certain valleys ; nor,
when it does occur, does it exist throughout the valley. It appears in one
spot ; higher up it is unknown, and in another situation, a mile or t^wo
distant, perhaps it is again prevalent. A curious example of this is afforded
by the valley leading up to the Great St. Bernard. Goitre is unknown a1x>ve
Liddes ; abounds at Vercheres, 800 ft. lower down ; and is almost universal
at Orsi4res : had the disease depended upon the glacier-water, it would, of
course, be more prevalent near to the glaciers, and in the upper part of the
valley.

A careful attention to the circumstances accompanying its appearance
will show that it is connected with the condition of the atmosphere, and
is found in low, warm, and moist situations, at the bottom of valleys,
where a stagnation of water occurs, and where the summer exhalations
and autumnal fogs arising from it are not carried off by a free circulation
of air ; — ^that it is, in fact, one of the many injurious effects produced by
malaria. It prevails in places where the valley is confined, and shut in,
as it were — where a free draught is checked by the sides being clothed
with wood, or by a sudden bend occurring in its direction — ^where, at the
same time, the bottom is subject to the overflowings of a river, or to exten-
sive artificial irrigation. The conjecture which derives the disease from
breathing an atmosphere of this kind, not liable to be purified by fresh
currents of air to carry off the vapours, is, perhaps, not undeserving of
consideration and further investigation on the part of the learned.

Goitre usually occurs about the age of puberty. It becomes hereditary
in a family, but children bom and educated on spots distant from home,
and in elevated situations, are often exempt from it. At Sion, in the
Valais, which may be regarded as the head-quarters of goitre, children
and even adults are often removed to the mountains from the low ground
on the first symptoms of the malady, and the symptoms disappear where
this is resorted to in time. Iodine has been applied with success as a
remedy in some cases ; but, as it is a dangerous remedy, the administra-
tion of it must be resorted to with the greatest caution.

The late Sir Astley Cooper, who in 1834 visited Martigny for the
purpose of making observations upon goitres, considered them to be
occasioned by the want of a due circulation of air; and he found the
inhabitants of one side of a valley afflicted by them, while those on the
other were quite free from them. (X. S. 1845.)

§ 19.— HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS, LAEEB, AND PASSES.

Ixix

I B. HSI6HTS OF THE FBINdPAL MOUNTAINS, LAKES, AND PASSES, ABOVS

THE LEVEL OP THE SEA.

Taken prmcipaUy from * J'eaks, Passes, and Glaciers,* «ri English feet.

Mountains,

feet.
Gaunsanbo' or Deodanga (Nepal) 29,002

AooDogBa (dule) 23,910

Mmt St £lias (North America) 17 , 850
fi(»deTeyde(Teiieriffe).. .. 12,205

Gross Glodmer (Tyrol and Ca-

rinthia) 12,956

llii]ibacai(SieiTa Nevada) .. 11,664
Mannolata (Italian Tyrol) (?) 1 1 , 500
Maladetta (P^ees) . . (?) 1 1 , 168

Etn8(Sicily) .. 10,872

Bosh Poj'aao (Carpathians) . . 9,912
SdWiatten (Norway) .. .. 8,102
OfS&JoknJl (Iceland) .. .. 6,200
Ben JfcTis (Scotland) .. .. 4,406

Snowdon (Wales) 3,590

Conan Tuhol (Ireland) .. .. 3,405

MotttBlanc 15,784

MonteRosa 15,223

I>oin (Mischabelhomer) .. ..14,935

14,889

14,804

14,705

I^otBlandie 14,322

MontCombin(Giaffeneire) .. 14,134

RwteraarHom 14,039

Al«techhoru 13,803

Hfrau 13,671

MontPelYoux 13,468

Sohreckbom

Bemina

Weiss Mies

Aiguille da G^Emt ..

Grivola

Nesthom ..

Monte y iso

Monte delle Disgrazie

BlUmlisAlp

Todi

Roche Melon (Mont Cenis)

Titlis

Beoca di Nona

Gomer Grat

Buet

Torrenthom

JSggischhom

Sidelhom

Cramont ..

Faulhom ..

Breven

Sentis

Niesen

Pilatos

Flegfere ..

Rigi

Monte Generoso

Dole .. .. ,

Salfeve .. .

Weissenstein .

feet

13,394

13,297

13,249

13,101

13,003

12,966

12,586

12,060

12,041

11,883

11,590

10,634

10,385

10,290

10,206

9,876

9,657

9,457

'9,040

8,812

8,380

8,223

7,765

7,315

6,105

5,910

5,561

5,520

4,541

4,230

Lakes.

Schwartzer See 8,393

I^See 7,244

6,000

3,210

2,360

2,165

1,781

. 1»755

^ 1,715

;«nt 1,442

♦VMenstadt 1,420

^fochatel 1,420

Bienne 1,410

Lucerne 1,406

Zug 1,400

Constance 1 , 385

Zurich .. .. 1,310

Orta 1,150

Geneva .. .. 1,230

Lugano 937

Bourget 762

Como 692

Maggiore 680

]xx

8 19. — HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS, LAKES, AND PASSES.

Passes.

feet.

AdlerPasg 12,461

WeisgThor .11,851

Triftjoch 11,601

Cold'Erin 11,408

ColduG6ant 11,146

St. Th^odnle Pass 10,899

Collon 10,333

Strahleck 9,750

Moro .. .. 9.640

Col de Ferret 8,409

Col de la Seigne 8,247

St. Bernard •.. 8,200

Col da Bonhomme .. .... 8,195

Furca 8,150

Rawyl 7,960

Nilfenen 7,950

Panixer 7,940

Bemina 7,695

Albula 7,680

Julier 7,625

Susten 7,560

ColdeBalme 7,550

Gemmi .. .. 7,540

Grimsel .. 7,530

Sanetsch .. < 7,367

Joch 7,340

Einzig Culm 7,280

OberAlp 7,140

Beniardin 7,O10

Spliigen 6,940

Cenia 6,825

St.Gothard 6,808

Surenen 6,720

Wengem Alp 6 , 690

Simplon 6,636

Schddfick, Hasli 6,480

Lukmanier 6,340

Maloya 6,060

Dent de Jaman 4,855

Br&iig 3,668

Unter Hauenstein 2,260

I lx« ]

ABBBE7IATI0NS, &c., EMPLOYED IN THE HANDBOOK,

; Thepomii of the compaof (true, not magnetic) are marked by the letters N. S. £. W.

(rt.) ijghtf (/.) left, — applied, to the hanks, of a river. The right bank is that
whicb lies on the right hand of a person whose back is turned towards the sonrce, or
to the quarter from which the cnrrent descends.

Distances sre, as £ur as possible, rednced to English miles ; when miles are men-
tioned, thej may be noderstood to be llnglish, and feet ta be English feet.

Where tiure is a railway the distances at the head of the chapters are measured
from tile fint station or terminus; On other roads ilie distances are measured from
eadi place to the next place mentioned.

The names of Inns precede the description of every place (often in a parenthesis),
because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge, and the best
Inns are placed first.

Idos * is a mark of commendation ; B. Bed ; Br. Break&st ; D. Dinner.

Instead of designating a town by the vague words " large" or "small," the
amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost invariably stated,
as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the- place.

In order to avoid repetition, the Routes are preceded by a chapter of preliminary
information ; and to facilitate reference to it, each division or paragraph is separately
lumbered.

Each Route is numbered with Arabic figures, corresponding with the figures at-
tached to the Route on the Map, which thus serves as an IndoE to the Book ; at the
saane time that it presents a tolerably exact view of the great and minor roads of
Switzerland, and of the course of public conveyances,

&tg. Ch. S., English Church Service on Sundays.

[ Ixxii ]

MAPS AND PLANS.

The Map of Switzerland at the end of SmtzerJaticT^

Savoy and Piedmont at the end of the Baah^

Plan of Basle 1

Falls of the Rhine 21

PlanofZurich 30

Lucerne 49

Sketch-Map Lake of Lucerne 52

Planoffieme 72

View of the Bernese Alps 75

Seption of View from Wengem Alp, &C. .. S7

Panorama from Faulhorn 91

Plan of Geneva 166

Panorama from Pierre & Voir, Hartigny 191

— PizLanguard 278

Glacier of Macugnaga 333

Panorama from the Riffelberg, 2iermatt .. to face 349

3lap of Monte Bosa and surrounding valleys • ,, 353

Panorama from Bella Tola 361

Summit of Monte Rosa 353

PlanofAosta 370

Map of Mont Blanc and surrounding valleys .. .. •» •• to face 395
Mont Blanc from the Br^vent ,, 400

ADDENDA.

Rte. 7.— Rheinfall, Schaflfhausen. The Schweizer Hof (formerly H. Weber) is a truly
comfortable house. Pension, 50 fr. per week, 180 fr, per months

SECTION I.

SWITZERLAND.

ROUTE 1.

BJfiLE TO BERSE, BT THE V*
<linNSTeETHAI.)lND DIBNKt^ BAU-

BilLE or Bile. (Germ. Basol, Ital.
B«uile».)-/nn3 ; Troia Kois (Three
Kings), an immense building, well
sitiuiuii DD the Rhioe. best, but dear,
and defeetJFe attendance ; Tite d'Or
ajui CotuMone, both overlooking (be
Bhine; Cigogne and Cygne, both in

the 10

!r Hof, n

r the

Cenl. K!}'. Stat., well kept, civil people ;
SauTBge, commercial, p>odin ita wr~
Basier Hof, near the opposite staC
Baden Rl;., is also a restaurant. Th
is B good cafe Bdjoiniag theTroisKi

Basle is divided by the Hhiae into
Great Boale on Uie 1. bank and Little
Basle on tbe rL bank, connected by a
wooden bridge, G80 ft. long, partly on
Btonepiera, OreatBasle is situated on
high, sloping banks, overlooking the
Bhlne, which rushes past in a full
broad flood of aclear.ligbt green; and
the view from il ia bounded oy the hills
of the BUck Forest on the one side.
of the Jura on the other. Its ap-
pearance ia atill that of an old Ger-
man tonn, with high roofs and large
houses. Great Basle and Little Basle,
with a few milea of territory, form the
half-canton called Basle-town. The
town contains 45,000 Inhab. (20,000

ROUTE 1. — BASLE. CATHEDRAL.

Sect.

Koman Catholics); a large increase,
for which it is indebted to its thriving
trade and manufactory of ribands
and paper; but its chief sources of
prosperity arise from the residence
of many rich merchants, bankers, and
families of ancient descent, and from
its position in an angle on the frontiers
of France, Germany, and Switzerland,
a few miles below the spot where the
Khine first becomes nayigable. The
chief transit-trade of Switzerland
passes through it.

A large proportion of travellers
entering Switzerland pass through
Basle, and it is now the town whence
most of the Swiss railways diverse.
Though most travellers rush hurriedly
through, there are few towns better
worth a day's halt.

Starting from the Trois Bois, and
turning to the L, we soon come to
the bridge ; continuing to the 1., and
ascending a narrow lane, in which is
1. the very unpretending University,
and rt. the Musee (see below), we
reach

The Cathedral, or Miinster (Sexton
in a house opposite the W. door), on
the high bauK on the 1. of the Rhine,
above the bridge, distinguished by
its 2 spires (about 220 ft. high), and
by the deep-red colour of the sandstone
of which it is built — a very pictur-
esque and interesting edifice, uiough
not of beautiful architecture. It was
begun by the Empr. Henry IL in
1010, and consecrated 1019. The
oldest part of the existing edifice,
however, is probably of the 12th cent.
It was mostly rebuilt in the beginning
of the 15th century after an earth-
quake.

The building is a mixture of the
Romanesque and Pointed styles. The
W. front, with its towers, its eques-
trian statues of St. George and St.
Martin, and other almost grotesque
carvings, is picturesque and striking.
The porch of St. Gallus in the N. tran-
sept (of the 13th centy.) is decorated
with statues of Christ and St. Peter,
and of the wise and foolish virgins.
The interior was in 1857 restored,
apparently with great care and fidelity.

and is very well worth a visit, TIm
very large organ at the W. end. ^wai
built, 1858. B is occasionally pla^yec
from 6 to 7 p,m., adm, 1 fr. The pulpii
(1324-1486) is of one piece of stone,
and an elaborate piece of "work
The choir, vrith its four reraark-
able columns, is raised to make room
for the crypt. In the ohoir is the
tomb of the Empress Anne (1281),
and round the nave, on the K. side,
are many other ancient tombs of
noble and royal persons; also one or
two quaint stone carvings let into the
wall, particularly one of St. Vincent.
Against a pillar opposite the Font
(1465) is the rmnument of JErasmus,
In the crypt are many other tombs,
mostly of the aristocratic families
of Basle, and also the coffins of six
of the family of Baden Durlach. A
staircase, leading out of the choir,
conducts into a small apartment —
the Chapter-house, or Condimm's Scud
— in which some of the meetings
of the Council of Basle, or rather
of its committees, were held be-
tween 1431 and 1449. It is a low
room, with 4 Gothic windows — dis-
tinguished not only in an historical
poiiit of view, but also ■ as being quite
unaltered since the day of the Council,
except the ceiling, which has been
restored. It is now a museum, and
contains a number of plaster casts,
some pieces of old furniture said
to have belonged to Erasmus, and
the six remaining fresco fragments
of the original Dance of Death,
painted on the walls of the Dominican
Church in 1409, in remembrance of the
plague. The Dance of Death has been
attributed without cause to Holbein,
since it existed at the time of the Coun •
cil of Basle, at least 50 years before
his birth. On the S. side of the Church
are very extensive and picturesque
* Cloisters — a succession of quadrangles
and open halls — which, with the space
they enclose, served for centuries as a
burial-place, and are filled with in-
teresting tombs ; among which are the
monuments of the 3 Beformers, (Eco-
lampadius (Hausscheln),Grynseus,'and
Meyer. The cloisters were constructed
in the 14th centy., and extend to tliQ

SuxtzerZandf. route 1. — basle. iiolbein. museum.

verge of the hill overlooking the river.

They may have been the favourite

resort of Erasmus. Bernouilli, a native

of Basle, is buried iiiStPeter*s Church,

"which contaiiis manj monuments of

its wealthy citizens. (Ecolampadius

first preached the Reformation in St.

MartbCs Cktrch.

Behind the Minster is a Terrace,
c&MlHePfalz, 75 ft. above the river,
planted with chesnut trees, and com-
mM(% a beautiful view over the
Bhine, the town, and the Black Forest
MU, among them the Blauen. Close
to it is the Club called Lesegesellschaft
— indudinor a reading-room, where 80
pajftis are taken in.

JReturning towards the bridge, we
come to the New Museum {open Sun-
days 10-12, Wednesdays 2-4 ; at
other times 1 fr. admittance), a hand-
some building, the most interesting
contents of which are a collection of
Pmiings and Drawings by the younger
Folki}i—<ihie^y formed by his friend
Eomfiiee Amorbach, whose portrait is
one of Holbein's masterpieces. 06s.
the Passion of Christ, in 8 compart-
Taen\s, full of life, but harsn in
colour ; also 8 sepia drawings of the
same subject; — a dead Christ; for-
Mr\y in the Minster; Holbein's
Wife and Children, with counte-
nances fall of grief and misery
[\^^; portraits of Erasmus, of
, ^ben the printer, excellent — of a
Mk Yon Ofifenburg, inscribed " Lais
toihiaca," very good ; the same
%M Venus witt Cupid ; two repre-
«itionsof a School, painted 1517,
Wiagufora schoolmaster's door
inftetown of Basle. Among the
-^^tBw^are Holbein's own portrait —
"^^(ijthe very highest excellence;
kea&ofthe family Meyer, sketched
fw the celebrated picture now in the
DresJea Gallery, a beautiful pen
and iii drawing ; original sketch
for the picture of the famihr of Sir
ThoniagHore — ^the names of the dif-
ferent personages are written on their
dresses; 5 sketches for the frescoes
which fcnnerly decorated the Kath-
ians in Basle, with one ortwofrag-
JMDts (if the frescoes themselves ;
iketeheilAisk for glass windows, for

the sheaths of daggers, for the organ
in the Minster ; the Costumes of
Basle ; &c. Sac. Holbein* was bom at
Augsburg in 1494 or 95, and removed
1520 to Basle : his circumstances were
by no means prosperous; he was
even reduced to work as a house-
painter. Erasmus, writing from Basle
a letter of introduction for the painter
to one of his friends, complains that
" hie frigent artes," and the want of
encouragement drove Holbein to seek
his fortune in England, 1526, 31, and
38, where he met with high patronage,
and d. 1543, His native city showed
its esteem for his talents by granting
him a salary of 50 gulden per annum,
lie became a citizen and member of
the Painters' Guild, and resided off
and on till 1538. Here are also portraits
of Luther and his wife, by L. Cranach;
of Zwingli; also some good pictures
by old Dutch masters presented to
the Museum.

Here also are deposited some anti-
quities, bronzes, fragments of pottery,
coins, &c., from Augst, the site of the
Koman Augusta Hauracorumi 7 mUes
from Basle (see Rte. 7). A silken
embroidered banner, given by Pope
Julius IL (1515) to the Balois;
some old church plate — part of the
Dom-Schatz — a silver cup of open
work is the oldest piece (I3th cent.);
St. Anne with the Virein and Child;
and a relic-box with reUefs, 13th cen-
tury, deserve notice.

The same building contains the
Public Library of 80,000 volumes (4000
MSS.) — among them, the Acts of the
Council of Basle, 3 vols., with chains
attached to the binding, many very
important MSS., of Tt^hich there is
a good catalogue, and a few of the
books of Erasmus ; also, a copy of
his * Praise of Polly,* with illustra-
tions by Holbein. There are auto-
graphs of Luther, Melanchthon, Eras-
mus, and Zuinglius, Those who wish
to see the library should apply early,
as the librarian is usually absent in
the afternoon.

The University of Basle, in a poor

* See Kngler's ' Handbook of Fainting/
vol, il., Gennan School.

B 2

BOUTE 1. — BASLE. UNIVEBSITY. BATHHAUS.

Sect. L

bailding, nearly opposite to the Musee,
founded 1460, was the first great semi-
nary for the adyancement of learning
established in Switzerland : it enjoyed
a hi^h reputation under Erasmus, and
numberea among its professors in more
recent times the names of Euler and
Bemouilli, the mathematicians, who
were natives of Basle. Schonbein, the
discoverer of gun-cotton and of ozone,
is a professor.

Betuming to the bridge, and then
keeping along a new street to the 1.,
we come to the Fischmarkt, a small
square with a Gothic fountain. Tak-
ing another street from the opposite
comer, we come to

^ The Sathhaus, in the Market-place, of
late Gothic architecture, founded 1508.
The exterior is painted. The frieze
displays the embuizoned shields of the
original cantons. The armorial bear-
ing of canton Basle is said to be meant
to represent the case of a cross-bow.
Ascendine the old staircase rt. are
some ancient and almost unaltered
rooms now employed as offices, and 1.
is the Great Council-Boom (^Stadt-
Bath'Saal) ornamented on the walls
and roof with humorous reliefs carved
in wood by Mat. Giger (1609). The
painted glass of the windows — coats of
arms of 12 of the Swiss cantons, with
supporters. At the foot of the stairs
is placed a statue of Munatius Plancus,
the founder, according to tradition, of
Basle and of the Koman colony of
Augst.

Continuing along the same street
(Ereie Strasse) rt, is the Post Office,
a very ancient building, formerly the
custom-house, with a new iront.
Passing through it, and observing the
back, we see opposite, up a court-
yard, a picturesque old bmlding, the
SchnUede Zunft, or Smith's Hall; and
in the same street is another old hall,
the Gartneren Zunft ; and in the town
are many other old halls of the guilds
or Zunfts, dating usually from the
16th cent, and almost unaltered. The
interiors are well worth a visit from
an antiquarian, and the attendants are
glad to show them for a few sous.

Not very fer oif towards the W.

part of the town is the Arsenal^
which contains a limited collec-
tion of ancient armour, of which the
only curiosities are a suit of chain
mail, once gilt, with plate mail be-
neath it, worn by Charles the Bold at
the battle of Nancy ; two Burg^undian
cannon, of iron bars bound round with
hoops, and several suits of Burgrundian
and Armagnac armour.

A littie way from the Arsenal are
some very ancient com stores, and
beyond them the fountain called Spah^
lenbrunnen, the figure of a bagpiper,
copied from a design of Holbein
or Albert Diirer, and of eleg^ant
workmanship. Beyond this is the
^Spalenthor, l e. 8t. Faulusthor (1400),
which retains its advanced work or
Barbican^ similar to those which for-
merly existed at York, and, with its
double portcullis and two flanking
towers, IS particularly picturesque.
The other gates and the ramparts
have been levelled. St, Elizabeth is a
modem Gothic church (1863).

English Church service in St. Martin's
church twice on Sundays — ^it is given
up in winter.
Physician, Dr. June.
Erasmus resided in the honse Zvan
Luft, and Frobenius printed in it one
of the first Bibles. The building
called Eirschfi^arten was erected by the
father of the custinguished African tra-
veller, Burckhardt, who was bom
here.

Al^handsome Hospital has been boilt
on the site of the palace of the Mark-
graves of Baden.

Down to 1798 the clocks of Basle
went an hour in advance of those in
other places of Europe. This sin-
g^ular custom, according to tradition,
arose from a conspiracy to deliver the
town to an enemy at midnight having
been defeated by the clock striking i
instead of 1 2.

Since the Beformation, Basle has
been regarded as the stronghold oi
Methodism in Switzerland. It pos-
sesses many well-endowed religious
benevolent societies and institutions.
The Protestant Missionary and Bible
Society has its head-quarters here.
I Attacned to it is the School foj

S^oMand,

ROUTE 1. — BASLE. HISTORY.

MisaoDsries at Onschotuxy about 4 m.

from "Basle.

T\i« spirit of trade has always gone,
hoymi, liand in hand with that of
Teligia&— «ad Basle has been called a
city oi usurers ; 5 per cent, was styled
a " Christian usance " (einen Christ-
Hchen Zins), and a proclamation of
the nugistrates (1682-84) denounced
those who lent money at a discount of
4 or 3Jper cent, as "selfish, arari-
cions, a&d dangerous persons."

like many other Swiss towns, Basle
is moch indebted to the liberality of
its mam, who continually bestow
magoificent nfts and legacies for the

C'lic henefit. The Cathedral has
iVT«&toi«d, and the Museum built
and endowed by private means alone.
Basle was for many centuries an
Imperial Gennan town, governed by
its oishops, under whom it appears to
hare floumhed. It joined the Swiss
confederation in 1501 ; and after severe
straggles its bishops were expelled.
The gorenunent tnen fell into the
hands of the aristocratic burghers.
whose authority was destroyed in
1798, partially restored in 1814, and
again oestToyed in 1848.

The dissensions which broke out
won after the Revolution of 1830 be-
tween the inhabitants of the town of
fiiisle and those of the country, led to
a cifil war between the parties, and a
bloody contest near Liestal occa-
I Boned the Swiss Diet, in 1832, to pass
«i act for the formal separation of the
tMton into two parts, called Basle
^ and Basle Campagne. Basle
TfiBe, however, refused to submit, and
' "Hicked the Campagne with 1600
"w, of whom 400 were left on the
Wd of battle, Aug. 1833. The diet
^occapied the whole canton, and
* faiil separation was made. Basle
Cmjttgne consists of two-thirds of the
tentoiyof the whole canton, and has
for its capital Xiiestal.

* Bwwis very good trout and grav-
^f Jb% in the Birs, and also in the

'. Wnii about 3 ^' from Basle, on the
^ rt. bud; of the Rhine.

* J&nfcpayj.— Central Station A.

* -Dinrt line to Paris by Mulhause

* and l&oyes. Express m 13 hrs.

40 min. (Paris time is 22 mm. be-
hind Basle time. Swiss money is
not taken.) To Strasburg and Paris;
to Olten, Zurich, Lucerne, and Berne.
B. — ^Baden terminus in Klein Basel,
N. of the Bridge; to Freiburg, Baden,
Heidelberg, Frankfurt; to SchaflF-
hausen, the Rhine Fall, and Constance.
From Basle to Lyons, in 1 day, by
Belfort, Besan90n, and Dijon,

^iMjiron*-.— About 3 m. out of the
town, just within the French frontier,
is Huningen, the great establishment
for pisciculture. 21,600,000 impreg-
nated eggs were distributed by its
agencies during 1860-2. It is close to
the Stat, of St. Louis. At St, OHschona,
conspicuously placed on a hill about
4 m. from Basle, is an interesting
missionary establishment.

The salt-works of Schweitzerhall
are 3 m. E. of the town. They were
established by the Baron von Glenck
of Gotha, who began a series of borings
in 1821 to reach the bed which extends
below the cantons of Argovia, Schaff-
hausen, Berne, and even Vallais. He
was successful in 1 835, and has a con-
cession of the beds for 70 years on
paying a tax of one-tenth of the raw
produce, and supplying the canton at
the rate of 2fr. 70 c. the cwt. The
total produce is 207,000 cwt.

ROUTE 1. — ^BASLE TO BERNE, VAL MOUTIERS.

Sect.

Basle to Betnie by the Miinster Thai.

Post-road, 9J posts, = 81^ Eng. m.

Posts. Eng. m.

Basle.

LauflFen . . . . 1| = 16J

Delemont <

. H = lli

Miinster ,

i = H

Malleray ,

. * - 6i

Sonceboz

. f = 6i

Bienne . .

. li = 10

Besrne, Rail.

This road will still be taken, at
least as far as Bienne, by those who
wish to see the beautiful Val de Mou-
tiers. With a voiturier the journey
to Bienne occupies 2 days, stopping the
first night at one of the good inns of
Malleray or Tavannes.

Diligence daily to Bienne.

The valley of the Birs^ commonly
called the Val Moutiers (^Miinster Thai,
in Germ.), through which this excel-
lent road passes, is one of the most
romantic in the Jura. It consists of
a series of narrow and rocky defiles,
alternating with open basins, covered
with black forests above, and verdant
meadows below, enlivened by villages,
mills, and forges. A road was origin-
ally carried through the Val Moutiers
by the Komans, to keep up the com-
munication between Aventicum (Rte.
45), the Helvetian capital, and Augst
(Rte. 7), their great fort^ed outpost
on the Rhine. As long as it runs
through Basle Campagne, t. e. for 4 or
5 m., it passes dirty villages and mean
houses.

At St. Jacobs \ m. from Basle, in
the angle between two roads, a small
Gothic cross has been erected, to com-
memorate the battle of St, Jacob (1444).

4 m. farther, near Reinac\ on
the opposite bank of the Birs, is
another battle-field — that oi Domach
— where the Swiss gained a victory
over a much larger Austrian force in
1499, during the Suabianwar. The

bone-house, near the CapuchixLTcoil
vent, is filled with skulls gathered fron
the field. In the church of the village
Maupertuis the mathematician (d
1759) is buried. A monument, set u{
to his memory by his friend Bemouilli
was destroyed by the cure of the Til-
lage, who was in the habit of repair-
ing his hearthstone when broken, with
slabs from the churchyard. It baa
been replaced by a fresh nM>nument at
the expense of canton Soleure.

Beyond Aesch the road enters
VEveche, that part of the canton Berne
which anciently belonged to the Prince
Bishop of Basle; the valley contract,
increasing in picturesque beauty as you
advance. To 1. a road by Passwang
to BaUsthal (Rte. 2). The castles of
Angenst'ein and Zwingen are passed be-
fore reaching

Laiiffen, — a curious, old, and dirty
walled village. Inn, Sonne.

Soyhiere (Germ. Saiigem) — a village
prettily situated, with a small countrv
Inn (Croix Blanche), tolerably goooL
Here is the division of languages:
part of the inhabitants speak GermaD,
part French.

Bellerive no longer an Hotel,
A contracted pass, the rocks of
which on the rt. are surmounted by a
convent, leads into the open basin of

D^lemont (Delsberg) (/nw: Bear).
[Diligence daily to Porrentruy (Prun-
trut — Inn, Ours), passing round the
base of Mount Terrible.] Pine view
of the Jura and gorges of Moutiers.
The bishop* princes of Basle had a
palace here. It is unnecessary to pass
through Ddl^mont, as our road turns
to the 1., and, continuing by the
side of the Birs, enters a defile higher,
gander, and more wild than any that
nave preceded it. This is, properly
speaking, the commencement of the
Val Moutiers. Rocky pl-ecipices over-
hang the road, and black forests of fir
cover the mountains above. In the
midst of it are the iron furnaces and
forges of les Rondes, and, farther on, of

Courrendelin (Germ. Rennendorf.
Inn: Hirsch), supplied with ore in the

Suntzerhnd.

B.OUTE 1. — MOUTIEKS GRANDVAL. SOXCEBOZ,

^^ of smaU granulated red masses,
^gfrom the size of a pea to that of
, ^cherry,fromtheneighbourmgmines.
The ml by which the Jura has been
cleRfromtop to bottom, so as to allow
a passage for the Birs, exhibits marks
of some great convulsion, by which
the strata of limestone (Jura-kalk)
nave been thrown into a nearly verti-
cal position, and appear like gigantic
walls on each sid,e of the road. The
gorge terminates inanother open basin,
in the midst of which lies Moutiers.
tDirect road to the Weissenstein and
Solenre branches off beyond the gorge,
aboat 1 m, before reaching]

Moaim Grandval, or MUnster —
(Tm: Krone) — a village of 1250
Inhab., named from a very ancient
^mster of St. Germanus on the height,
fonnded m the 7th century, and now
fast iaJiinff to ruin. [There is a good
cai-ioad from Moutiers to the summit
ofth Weissenstein (Rte. 3), a distance
of 10 m. (2 hrs.), up-hill nearly the
wMftway, but fit for the cars of the
coantiy, one of which, drawn by 2
horses, may be hired to go and return
fei*10fr. It passes Grandval (Grossau)
and Gansbrunnen. Diligence daily to
Olten in 6i hrs., passing Gansbrun-

At the upper end of the basin of
Moutiers the road is conducted through
another defile, equally grand, at the
bottom of which the Birs foams and
Ttishes, overhung by perpendicular
eiifis and fimereal firs. To this suc-
ceeds the little plain of Tavannes. ,

Weray (Lion d'Or, a good Inn;
capital trout). Convenient sleeping-
pUces on this journey either here or
3 m. further, at

Tacaim^s (or Dachsfelden = badger's
field) 2523 ft. (/nns; Couronne; Croix).
TheYafley to the E. of Court, called
(Moat (Tschaywo), is inhabited by
the descendants of the Anabaptists,
expeDed from Berne in 1708-1 1. They
are distinguished by their industry and
simple manners : the young men wear

beards — they speak French. % m.
above Tavannes is the source of the
Birs; before reaching it our road quits
the valley, mounting up a steep ascent,
in the middle of which it passes under
the singular archway in the solid rock^
called

Pierre Pertms (Fertusa = bored
through). Probably a natural opening,
enlarged by M. burmius Paternus,
Prefect of the Roman colony of Aven-
ticum, as is stated by an inscription on
the N. side:

NUMINI AUGUS

tor VM

VIA fa CTA PER,M —

Dv rmi VM pater num

II. VIR Um. COL HELVET —

It stood on the boundary line separat-
ing the people of the Rauraci, who
extended to Bale, from the Sequani.
The archway is about 40 ft. high and
10 or 12 thick. The pass was fortified
by the Austrians in 1813. Here is
the watershed, 2834 ft., dividing the
streams of the Birs from those of the
Suze.

Sonceboz — (Inn: Couronne, good) —
a village in the Val St. Imier (Germ.
Erguel), up which runs a good road
to Chaux de Ponds (Kte. 50), and out
of which another branches S. to Neu-
chatel from Villaret. The old road to
Bienne passes the forges of Reuche-
nette, 1942 ft., in the valley below, and
descends the valley along the 1. bank
of the Suae, which forms several
small cascades. The projecting rock
of Bond Chatel was occupied in feu-
dal times by a fort, and neld by the
powerful Bishops of Basle, to whom it
gave the command of this pass. The
View from the old road on the last
slope of the Jura, over Bienne and its
lake, with St. Peter's Isle, and the
district watered by the Aar, Emme,
and Zihl, backed in clear weather by
the snowy range of the Alps, from
Mont Blanc to the Jungfrau, is ex-
ceedingly beautiful. On the bare
limestone slope of the Jura, close to

ROUTE 1. — BIENNE. AARBERa.

the road, are lying numbers of granite
boulders. (See § 16.)

Bienne (German Biet) — Inns :
♦Couronne ; H. du Jura ; Croix
Blanche. Bienne, an industrious
town. Pop. 6053, 660 Protestants, .is
prettily situated at the mouth of the
Talley of the Suze, at the foot of
the Jura, here mantled with vines,
and about a mile from the head of the
lake of Bienne (Bte. 49). It is still
surrounded by its ancient walls and
watch-towers, and is approached by
several shady avenues. The town
anciently belonged to the Bishop of
Basle, but the citizens, early imbued
with the spirit of freedom, formed a
perpetual alliance with Berne in 1352,
for the defence of their liberties, in
revenge for which the town was burnt
by their liege lord. The Reformation
further weakened the connection be-
tween the town and its ecclesiastical
ruler, and at the beginning of the 17th
century his authority became nominaL

[Those who have a taste for climb-
ing may gratify it by ascending from
hence the Chasseral (Gestler), one of
the highest mountains of the Jura,
3616 ft. above the lake, and 4936 ft.
above the sea, with the certainty of
being rewarded with a magnificent
view (Bernese Alps, rt. Mont Blanc,
1. Pilatus and Kigi) if the weather be
clear. There is a carriage-road as
far as the viUf^ of Nodz, about 3
hrs.; thence a K>otpath, about 1 hr.,
to the top. You may descend to
Neuville via Nodz.]

From Bienne, railway to Neu-
chdtel and Yverdun (Rte. 49), thence to
Lausanne and to Geneva.

Railways to Basle, by Soleure and
Olten.

The direct Rly» from Bienne io Bei-ne
(4 trains daily, Ij to 2 hrs.) crosses
at Briigg Stat, the Zihl, which flows
out of the Lake of B., at (rt.) Nydau;
tnn, Bar. It next crosses the Aar

Sect, j

by a lattice-bridge 800 ft. long, neai
Busswyl, and ascends its rt. bank to]

Lyss Stat [4 m. S. of tl^is is \

Aarherg (Inn: Krone), a town, ol
864 Inhab. on a rocky promontorv,
nearly surrounded by the Aar, w^hich^
indeed, at high water, actually con*
verts it into an island. The road, en*
ters and quits the town by 2 covered
bridges) View from the cemeterj^.]

Schupfen Stat.
Munchenbuchsee Stat.

ZoUikofeiCJfmct. Stat, Here the rly.
from Bienne (Rte. 1) falls in. A little
N. of this lies

Hoftcyl^ long well known as the ag^-
cultural and educational institution o£
the late M. FeUenberg.

The surrounding district was little
better than a bog when M. FeUenberg
settled here in 1799; but he gradually
brought it into cultivation ; and an
English agriculturist, who had been
sent abroad to investigate the state of
agriculture on the continent, reported
that here alone he had seen really
good ploughing.

The rly. leaves on rt. the pic-
turesque peninsula of Enge, nearly
surrounded by the Aar. At Tie-
fenau a lofty Road-bridge of 3 arches,
a noble structure, has been thrown
over the river. Nearly opposite the
N. extremity of the lofty and pic-
turesque promontory called Enge, lies
Reichenbachy which belonged to Rudolph
of Erlach, the hero of the battle of Lau-
pen, murdered here, in his old age, by
his son-in-law, Jost von Rudenz, with
the very sword which he had wielded at
that glorious victory. The assassin was

Eursued, as he fled from the scene of
is crime, by the two bloodhounds of
the aged warrior, who broke loose at
their master's cries. They tracked
the murderer's footsteps of their own
accord, and after some nburs returned
with gore-stained lips, and nothing
more was heard or known of Jost yon

SnAzerland.

BOUTE 3. — BASLE TO SOLEURE AND BIEHNE.

Bodeiu. Budolph was buried at the
neighbouring church of Bremgarten,
wliexe a stone in the N. wall of the
chanoeL marks the spot.

[Prom Delemont to Tavannas, a
more ciremtons, but not less fine route,
may be taken, along the valley of the
Some, dmmgh Bassecourt. It passes
the ironworks of TJnder?elier (2 hrs.
40 m.), bailt in a narrow gorge; then
ascends through the gorges of Pi-
choQx, in 2 hrs. to Bellelay. This was
fonnerlj a convent of Premonstrate
monks, built in 1136, on a bleak table-
land (3500 ft.) ; now converted into
an excellent brewery and a glass ma-
nufactory. Cheese, called tetes de
momes, me exported. Hence 1 hr.
down to Tavannes.]

A bridge of ingenious construction
over the Aar carries the rly. on the
top, and the carriage-road on a second

story, into

Besne Termintis. (Bte. 24.)

ROUTE 3.

BASLE TO SOLEUBE AND BtBNKE, BT
RAILWAY. — ASCENT OP THE WEIS-
SENSTEIN.

Ei^. m.
Basle.

liestal (Rail) 8

LaufeiflDgea 18

Olten 23

Uenogenbachsee .... 40

Soletire 48

Bienno ••••.••63

As far as Aarburg the road is the
same as in Bte. 4. Near Aarburg,
which is a little bejrond Olten, the
road diverges and rollows for some
distance the rt. bank of the Aar: it
then soes through a fertile but unin-
teresting country to

JEferxogenbuchaee, Jimct Stat, (Rail-
way Restaurant), a town of 4500
Inhab. Here our line leaves the
Berne line (Rte. 5), and turns W.;
crossing the Grosse Emme. 5 m. to
the rt., and in front, is seen the hotel
on the Weissenstein. The Aar is
crossed shortly before reaching

SoLEURE Stat. (Germ. Solothum) —
(Inns: Couronne, good and moderate;
Cerf; La Tour), 1407 ft. -the capital
of the canton, is prettily situated on
the Aar, at the foot of the Jura range,
and has 5916 Inhab. (800 Protestants).
In the middle of the 17th centy. it was
surrounded by fortifications of great
extent, which took 60 years to com-
plete, and consumed vast sums of
money. In 1835 the removal of these
costly and useless works was decreed
by the Great Council of the canton.
It is on the whole a dull town with
little trade and few manufactures,

B 3

ROUTE 3. — SOLEUKE. CLOCK-TOWER. MUSEUM.

Sect, 1

except lenses and mathematical in-
struments.

At the end of the principal street,
approached by a flight of steps, flanked
by fountains representing Moses
striking the rock, and Gideon wring-
ing the dew from the fleece, stands
the Cathedral of St Ursus (a soldier
of the Theban legion), a modern
building, finished 1773, by an Italian,
Pesoni, of Ancona; it is cQstinguished
by its size, and on the whole hand-
some.

The Clock Tower (Zeitglockenthurm),
in the market-place (a continuation
of the same street), is stated by the
guide-books to be a Eoman work,
while a German inscription upon it
attributes its foundation to a period
500 years earlier than the birth of
Christ; it may owe its origin to the
Burgundian kings. It is square in
form, and constructed of the most
solid masonry, rough outside, origi-
nally without window or other open-
ing, for 80 feet. If we are to believe
the two liatin verses on the front of
this building, Soleure is the most
ancient city in N.W. Europe except
Treves:

In Celtis nihil est Solodoro antiquius, unis
Bxceptis Treviris, quorum ego dicta soror.

The Arsenal (Zeughaus), a gable-
fronted house (d. 1580), not far from
the Cathedral, contains the most ex-
tensive and curious collection of
ancient armour in Switzerland. Here
are shown numerous standards, taken
by the Swiss. in their victories over
the Burgundians and Austrians, at
Sempach, Morat, Nancy Tbearing the
portrait of Charles the Bold — with St.
George and the Dragon), and Grand-
son. Some of these, in order to pre-
serve them, have been fastened to
pieces of coarse canvas; the yellow
flag with the Austrian eagle was
brought from Dornach. Among 800
suits of armour are many French and
Burgundian. There are a few suits
of chain mail, and a great many of
commoner sort worn by Lanzknechts.
More than 100 heads are said to have

fallen under an executioner^s sword her
preserved. Several specimens of ival
pieces, or long swivels, for tlie de
fence of a fortress, are curious. Som
of the armour is for sale.

The Museumy in the Waisenhaiis
close to the bridge over the Aar, con
tains the finest collection of Jurs
fossils in existence — 15,000 specimens
chiefly from quarries near Soleure
which will be viewed with great inte
rest by the geologist. There an
nearly thirty specimens of fossil turtle
rarely found elsewhere, together "witl;
teeth and palates of fish, and nume-
rous fragments of saurians, derived
from a formation which is believed to
correspond with the Portland stone oi
England. The jaws of mammalia are
said to come from the same locality (?).
A suite of specimens of the rocks of
the Alps were collected in numerous
journeys by Professor Hugi, to 'whom
belongs tne merit of forming" and
arranging this cabinet.

The Eoman Catholic Bishop of Sasle
lives here. The clergy are numeroas
and powerful, both in the town and
canton. There are several convents
at Soleure. The sisters of St JosepKs
Nunnery, outside the Berne g'ate,
make artificial flowers, sweetmeats,
and other articles, which they sell at
the grating. Their pincushions are
clumsy, and themselves not very in-
teresting.

Soleure was long the head-quarters
for enlisting Swiss recruits in the
foreign service of France, Spain,
the Pope, and Naples, in which
countries a body-^ard of Swiss was
always maintained. The town of So*
leure was an ancient Imperial city, hut
had been long allied to Berne, and in
1481 . became, with its surrounding
country, a Swiss canton. Until 1793
the government of Soleure was the
closest and the worst of the Swiss
governments. The old government
was partially restored in 1814, but
completely altered and rendered de*
mocratic m 1831.

Thaddeus Kosciusko, the Pole, spent

Switzerland.

ROUTE 8. — ^WEISSKKSTEm.

the last years of hi^ life here ; his
^nse, where he died, is near the
; Post-office, No. 10, Bieler-str. His
^ entrails are interred in the church-
yard of Zuchwjl, 1 m. E. of Soleure,
"under a monument inscribed ** Vis-
cera Thaddei Kosciusko."

Abont2maes K.E. of Soleure, be-
yond the village of St. Nicholas, lies
the Hermitage of St, Verena, at the
end of a pretty valley, hemmed in
bjpocks of gneiss embowered in trees,
and traversed by a sparkling rivulet.
It is reached %y paths, originally
formed by the French emigres, who,
at the outbreak of the French Revo-
lution, sought an asylum here. The
▼alley abounds in caves and grottoes,
partly natural, partly artificial, and at
Its further extremity, within a natural
shelf of OTer-arching cliff, stands the
little Chapel of St. Verena ; behind the
altar a small cave has been cut in the
rock, and now contains a representa-
tion of the holy sepulchre. Iiiis saint,
anions maiden wno accompanied the
Theban legion, suffered severe tempta-
tion m this solitude, according to the
legend, from the devil, who, on one
occasion, was on the point of carrying
her off, when she saved herself by
clinging fast to the rock, where the
hole made by her finger-nails still
^cniams. On tne way to Sie hermitage,
»ear St. Nicholas, is the Chateau of
"^oidegy; its old-fashioned gardens,
»id out in terraces, are worth notice.

[The Weissenstein. — The most inte-
Jsfing excursion in the neighbour-
«wi of Soleure is that to the summit
of ihe Weissenstein (3 hrs., 8 m.)
2J^oct» so named from its white
«ifi of limestone), the mountain im-
"•fiately behind the town. It is
**8nblB to chars-a-banc, by a road
*y«^hat steep, passing through the
J^8 Langendorf and Oberdorf,
JpJid which it is carried up the face
^ ftfi mountains in a series of zig-
^ Pedestrians may find a short
^ ttd reach the top easily in 2|
^^ ^de or porter 5 fr. ; 3 more
tf he is detained for the night); they

may visit the Hermitage of St. Verena
in their way to or fro.

An ffotel and Bath-hotise has been
built at the expense of the town on
the brow of the mountain, 3950 ft,
and 2640 above the Aar at So-
leure; about 30 beds; accommo-
dation, homely, is good. Pension
6 fr. It is rented by the landlord of
the Couronne at Soleure.

The dairy of the establishment is
supplied by 60 cows, fed on the pas-
ture on the summit of the mountains,
so that milk and cream may be had
here in perfection.

Many invalids take up their resi-
dence here during the summer months,
on account of the fresh air, or for the
"cure de pjetit lait" (goats' whey),
&c., which is recommended in certain
complaints.

The greater portion of visitors,
however, resort nither merely on ac-
count of the view, remaining on the
summit one night to enjoy the sunset
and sunrise.

The Inn of the Weissenstein, and
the still more elevated summit of the
mountain, called Hasematte, 1^ hour's
walk from the Inn, to the W. of it,
command one of the finest distant
prospects of the Alps which can be
named. The great chain of snowy
peaks, &c., here seen, spread out
along the horizon, extends for a dis-
tance of 200 miles, from the Sentis
on the E., to Mont Blanc in the S.W.
Immediately in front rise the Jung-
frau, Schreckhom, and other giants
of the Bernese chain. In the fore-
ground, amidst a varied expanse of
wooded hill and verdant vale, are the
lakes of Morat, NeuchEtel, and Bi-
enne, while the silvery Aar, on which
stands the town of Soleure, winds
like a snake at the foot of the moun-
tain. See Keller^s panorama at the
inn.

Another road, quite practicable for a
char-k-banc, descends tne opposite (N.)
side of the Weissenstein, into the VaJ
Moutiers (Rte. 1).]

Quitting Soleure, the railroad runs

ROITTE 4, — BASLE TO LUCERNE.

Sect. I.

by the side of the Aar, and along the
S. base of the Jura. The inn on the
top of the Weissenstein continues long
a conspicuous object.

On the rt lie the Baths of Grange
(firemhen\ a large building.

Bozingen (Boujean), on the river
Suze, has ironworks of repute.

Bierme Termmm (Bte. 1).

ROUTE 4.

BASLE TO LUCERNE, BY THE CENTRAL
SWISS RAILWAY.

Eng. m.

Liestal d

Laufelfingeii IB

Olten 23

Sursee ......* 41

Lucerne 56

The Central Swiss Railway starts
from Basle (stat. near the iEschen
Thor, a mile from the bridge), and
traverses the Jura, through very beau-
tiful scenery, to Olten; whence its
branches diverge to Berne, Lucerne,
Zurich, and Bienne. The works on
this line were executed by the English
engineer Brassey.

The rly., on quitting Basle, crosses
the valley of the Birs on a lattice
bridge of 3 arches, a little N. of the
battlefield of St. Jacob, where, in

1444, 1600 Swiss had the boldness
to attack, and the courage to ivith-
stand for 10 hrs., a French army ten-
fold more numerous, commanded by
the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XI.
Only 10 of the Swiss escaped alive,
the rest were left ded.d on the field,
along with thrice their own number of
foes, whom they had slain. This al-
most incredible exploit spread abroad
through Europe the fame of Swiss
valour ; and Louis, the Dauphin,
wisely seeing that it was better to
gain them as friends than to oppose
uiem as enemies, courted their alli-
ance. The Swiss themselves refer
to the battle of St. Jacob as the
Thermopylae of their history. The
vineyards near the field produce
a red wine, called Schweitzer Blut
(Swiss blood). A little beyond
this place the men of Basle were in
1833 drawn into an ambuscade by
the men of Liestal and defeated wiw
considerable slaughter. The rly. con-
tinues for some miles along the flat
land of the Rhine valley, then leaving
it, turns to the rt up the valley of
the little river Ergolz.

Liestal Stat. (^Tnns not good :
Falke; Schliissel) was always opposed
to its connexion with Basle town,
and was finally separated from Basle
in 1833. It is a oirty, uninteresting
town of 2170 Inhab., and since the
separation has become the seat of
government of Basle Campagne, which
includes 53 parishes, with al^ut 36,000
Inhab. In the Council-house (Bath-
stube) are curious paintings and sen-
tences on the walls, and Charles the
Bold*8 cup taken at Nancy.

After leaving Liestal the rly.
enters a mountain valley, and fol-
lows the curves of the stream. The
scenery is very pretty; in the bottom
are brig^ht green meadows, dotted
with white houses; on the sides of
the hills are fir and beech forests,
and above, limestone cliffs may occa-
sionally be seen.

Sissach Stat, The Rly. now ascends
the valley by a gradient of 1 in 20,

Switzerland,

ROlJTE 4.-— OLTEN. JLABBCitta.

snd several side valleys are crossed i Central Bly. Frequent omnibuses

on bridges, the line constantly rising
untii it looks down upon the village
of

Bukten Stat, (^Inn : Halber Mond),
beyond which is a tunnel 900 ft. long;
L rise the picturesque ruins of the
Castle of Bomburg, the scenery be-
eoming wilder and more picturesque,
and the mountains higher.

Loa^elfngen Stat. Close to this the
tonnel under the TJnter-Hauenstein
is entered. It is 2700 yards long,
and was 3 years in progress, and
at one accident in 1857 50 men
were buried alive. This pass has
always been of great ^importance
as an outlet for the merchandise
of Switierland, and as the most
direct line of communication from
W. Germany to Italy by the St.
Gothard. The old road ascended
to the head of the pass by a series
of zigzags, descending in a similar
manner on the other side, and com-
mands a * View of the great chain of
the Alps, which is lost to the tra-
veller Dy the rly. ' Those who would
not miss the view will quit the train
atLanfelfingen, walk over the moun-
tain (Inn at the summit), and rejoin
the rail at Olten.

On emerging from the tunnel we

enter the pretty valley of Trimlach;

ereen fields and white houses below,

& woods above, and limestone rocks

and clifil^ occasionally protrudine,

with a distant view of the Appenzell

mountains. Soon afterwards we open

into a wider valley, and, looking over

Olten, in clear weather the first view

of the Bernese Alps is obtained. The

ily. here makes a curve of more than

half a circle, and, crossing the river

Aar, reaches

OUen June. Stat. (Inns: H. de la
Gaie, close to stat. ; Thurm(Tour);
Halb-mond), a town very prettily
situated in a valley of the Jura,
said to be the Boman Ultimum. Pop.
2340. Here are the ironworks of the

to Frohburg, a watering-place with
whey baths.

Railways. — To Ziirich, by Aarau
and Baden, 2 hrs.; to Soleure and
Bienne, 3 hrs.*, to Berne, 2 hrs.; to
Lucerne, 2 hrs. Passengers for Berne,
Lucerne, or Bienne, change car-
riages. The rly. then goes through
a pass between the hills and makes a
circuit round.

Aarburg Stat, (^Inns: Bar; Krone), a
neat town of 1500 Inhab., almost en-
tirely rebuilt since a conflagration in
1840. Its Citadel on the heights, al-
though it has bomb-proof casemates
hewn out of the rock, serves only
as a military storehouse for the Swiss
Confederation, and forms a pictur-
esque object in the landscape. Out-
side the town is an extensive cotton
factory, and a suspension wire bridge
over tne Aar.

Here the railway branches off to
Berne (Rte. 5) and to Soleure (Rte. 3),
though the carriages are changed at
Olten.

The railroad leaves the Aar and
enters a pretty valley, distinguished
by its verdant pastures, and its sub-
stantial-looking houses, many of them
with gardens, whose walls are often
covered with thin plates of wood over-
lapping each other like fishes' scales.
It IS bordered by a varied outline of
wooded heights. In firont, the snowy
Alps.

Zbfingen Stat, — Inns: Cheval Blanc
(Rossli), Ochs— a town with 3172 In-
hab. Its Library contains autograph
letters of Swiss reformers, and draw-
ings by members of the Swiss Society
of Artists. Near the Schiitzenhaus
are some magnificent lime-trees, in
whose branches 2 ball-rooms have
been constructed. A fragment of the
castle of Beiden, and a solitary tree
perched on a rock beside it, become
conspicuous before reaching

Beiden Stat, The Parsonage was

BOUTE 4. — SITBSEE. SEMPACH.

Sect. Li

originaJlj the house of the Knights
of Malta.

Dagmersellen Stat. Inn: Lion, kept
by A. Biihier, good and clean.

NeUkonStat, Between here and Waw-
wyl a good view, rt. of the snow mts.
of the Oberland. The Jungfrau is in
the centre : the Monch and Eiger to
its 1., the Altels to its rt.

Wauwill Stat.

Sursee Stat, — (^Inns: Soleil; Hirsch;
both bad and dear) — an old walled
town, whose gate-towers still bear the
double-headed eagle of Austria carved
in stone. The Rathhaus is much dila-
pidated, but a good specimen of the
German-Burgundian style. The ge-
neral outline resembles the old
Tolbooth of Edinburgh. — ^Sursee is
1 m. from the N. end of the Lake of
Sempach, which has no pretensions
to great beauty, but is pleasing, and
highly interesting historically, from
the Battle of Sempach (1386) — the se-
cond of those ereat and surprising
victories by whicn Swiss independence
was established. It was fought on the
E. shore of the lake, behind the little
town of Sempach, opposite which the
lake comes mto full view from our
road. In 1805 a portion of the water
of the lake was let off, in order to
gain land along its banks ; thus its
extent is diminished, its surface low-
ered, and its form somewhat altered
from what it was at the time of the
battle. The rly. runs along its W.
shore. Views of Pilatus and Rigi.

Sempach Stat, About 2 m. from
the rly. stat. is the town of Sempach
(Jnns : Kreutz ; Adler) ; and 2 m.
farther is a small chapel, erected to
commemorate the. victory, on the spot
where Leopold of Austria (son of the
Duke of the same name who had been
defeated 71 years before at Mor-
garten) lost his life. The names of
those who feU, both Austrians and
Swiss, were inscribed on the walls,
which also bear a rude fresco repre-

sentation of the noble devotion of

Arnold of Winkehned —

He of battle-martyrs chief I

Who, to recall his daunted peers,

For victory shaped an or>en space.

By gath'ring, with a wide embrace.

Into his single heart, a sheaf

Of fatal Austrian spears. — fVordstoorth,

He was a knight of Uuterwalden,
who, observing all the efforts of the
Swiss to bre& the ranks of their
enemies foiled by their long lances,
exclaimed, "Protect my wife and
children, and I will open a path to
freedom.'* He then rushed forward,
and gathering in his arms as many
lances as he could grasp, buried them
in his bosom. The confederates were
enabled to take advantage of the gi^
thus formed in the mau-clad ranks
of the foe, before the Austrian lancers
had time to extricate their entangled
weapons from his body. In order to
oppose the Swiss, who fought on foot,
many of the Austrian nobfes had dis-
mounted to form a serried phalanx;
but the armour which rendered them
almost invulnerable on horseback, and
which, while they remained united
and in close column, had formed so
impenetrable a barrier to the attack
of the Swiss, now that their ranks
were broken, disabled them from
coping with their light-armed and
active foes. 600 nobles were slain,
and more than 2000 common soldiers;
while the entire force of the Swiss,
who achieved this victory, is said not
to have exceeded 1400 men. The
conquerors founded masses for the
souls of those who fell, friends as well
as foes, and they are celebrated even
now on the anniversary of the fight,
which is a popular festival, f^ne
view of the Rigi and Pilatus from
this part of the Hne.

At Buttiskolzy a village about 3 m.
W. of Nothwyl Stat, and on the rt. of
the road, may be seen a mound, called
the English barrow, because it contains
the bones of 3000 Free Companions,
or Guglers, who had formerly served
on the English side in the wars

. BO"*^ ^^ — iASU TO BERNfc

«K «>g»S^lftW^ o£ *^,^eL III. of

«>m«eim^°3oH>J*^Vitt with
ttKi^fflsite^-^ t'feera'»&6a ^f these

?^v*^^^tIto»^J't*^ att Ael
m 4e 8TO3 dest^^I^^y the Swiss
m tetail ja^a d^ _ ije siction which

^tsteS^cb.W'd-^bodyoftEese

• ^1 SflT^es the Rigi, in shape
f^.^^'^-^tlingahlAe'sbacl;

somewhat resci

on the rt. the IJTaP^' ^J^\^f^. ^i a moun-
tam Cham, stanas^out boldly; m front

Stat, After
reach the

thePilatus is distinguished by its ser

rated ridge. ^

7 m. Ummenbrucke

crossing the Emme, we
banks of the green Reuss, rushing out
of the lake of Lucerne. Lucerne is
gurrounded on this side by a battle-
mented wall, flanked at intervals by a
number of tall watchtowers, descend-
m*r to the margin of the river.

LucEBNB Jiinct. Station, on S. side
of the Reass (Bte. 16). Steamers for
Waggis, Fliielen, &c., touch at it.

ROUTE 5.

BASLE TO BERNE, BT THE CENTRAL

SWISS RAILWAY,

£ug. m.
Basle. ••

Liestal 8

I^ufelfingen 18

Olten 23

llei-zogenbuchsee .... 40

Burgdorf 60

Berne 64

Trains in 3^ to 5 hrs.

The road as far as Aarburg is
described in Rte. 4. At Aarburg, a
little beyond Olten, the road leaves
the Lucerne line and turns to the
S.W., keeping for some distance along
the 1. bank of the Aar ; it then tra-
verses a fertile but dull coimtry to

Herzogcnhuchsee Junct. Stat. {Inn:
Sonne), a town of some 4500 Inhab.

Near Riedtwyl Stat, a verdant valley
is entered, its slopes covered with
luxuriant wood.

Burgdorf ( French Berthoud ). —
{Tnns: Bear; Buffet at the Stat.),
— a thriving town (3500 Inhab.)
of large arcaded houses, and opulent
public institutions pleasantly situated
at the mouth of the fertile Emmen-
thal (Rte. 22). In the old castle here
Pestalozzi first established his school.
Views of the Jungfrau, group of snow
mts. from the ch., and a much more
extensive one from the Lueg, 2 hrs.
walk.

HindeVoank Stat.

In the church of Hindelbank are
many monuments to the noble family
of Erlach, and also the celebrated
Monument of Madame Langfians, wife
of the clergyman, who died in child-
birth. It is by a sculptor named
Nahl, and represents her with her
child in her arms, bursting through
the tomb at the sound of the last
trumpet. Its merit, as a work of art,
has been much exaggerated. The epi-
taph was written by Haller. This tomb
is formed of sandstone, and is let into
the pavement of the church.

'BeyondZoUikofcn Junct. Stat, is Ruete,
rt., an agricultural institution.

At Wyler Feld (a fine view 1, of the

JiOUTE 6. — BATHS OF SCHINT2NACH.

Sect. I

Bernese Aljps) the rly. from Thun
(Rte. 25) falls in.

The Castle of Reichenbach on the
neighbouring height belongs to the
Erlach family.

The Aar is crossed by a lofty
bridge, having a passage for the rail
above, and the carriage-road below,
leading to

Berne Stat. (Rte. 24).

ROUTE 6.

BASLE TO ZirBICH — ^RAILWAY.

Eng. m.
Basle.

liiestal 8

I^aufelflngen 18

Oltcn 23

Aarau 31

Brugg 42

Turgi Junction .... 44

Baden 47

Zurich 62

Aboat 4 hrs. Take the 1. side of
the carriage up to Brugg ; the rt.
after.

The road as far as Olten is de-
scribed in Rte. 4. At the 0/f«n junction
the Ziirich branch turns E., keeping
on the rt. bank of the Aar, to

Aarau — Inns: Wilder Mann (Sau-
sage), comfortable ; Lowe ; Krone ;
Rossli — the chief town of the canton
Argovie, which was first included in
the Confederation in 1803, having pre-
viously formed a subject province of
canton Berne, contains 4500 Inhab.,
and is situated on the rt. bank of the
Aar: Simond called it, in 1817, "an
odious little place ;" but it has much im-
proved and increased since then. It
ues at the S. base of the Jura, here
partly covered with vineyards. There
are many extensive cotton-mills here.

The JkaiMuMs, in which the can-

tonal councils are held, has been re-
built. In the parish church Pro-
testant and Catholic services are per-
formed alternately.

Henry Zschokke, the historian and
novel-writer, resided here until his
death, 1848, in a pretty villa on a hill
on the 1. bank of the Aar. When the
armies of the French Revolution took

Sossession of Switzerland in 1789, and
estroyed its ancient form of govern-
ment, Aarau was made for a short
time capital of the Helvetian Ke-
public.

There are several castles visible fronoL
the rly ., the most conspicuous of which
is that of Wildegg, the residence of
Col. d'Effinger.

Schintznach Stat, 1^ m. from the
Bat?i8 of Schmtznachf also called Habs-
burger Bad, the most frequented
watering-place in Switzerland. The
principtd buildings are the Hotel
(Grosser Gasthof ) and Bath-house, in
a semicircular form. 500 persons fre-
quently sit down to dinner toG^ether
in the season at the. table-d'hote,
3 fr. There are 160 rooms and 160
baths, aU exactly alike, lined with
Dutch tiles. The resident physician
and inspector is Dr. Zurkowski, Paris
Acad. Med. The spring yields one
of the strongest sulphurated waters
known. Temperature 60** Fahr. The
visitors are chiefly French. Season
from May to September ; prices re-
duced in winter. The waters are
efficacious in diseases of the skin and
mucous membrane, of the bones and
respiratory organs, in rheumatism,
and for wounds. Schintznach owes
little to nature except its waters.
Some pretty walks have been made
near the houses, and winding paths,
under the shade of trees, lead up the
hill to Habsburg.

Among the many excursions in the
neighbourhood may be mentioned the
ascent of the Gisli-Fiuh, over which
there is a pleasant walk to Aarau.

Brugg, or Bruck — Inn: Das Rossli.
Rly. to Waldshnt rRte. 7). An an-
cient possession of tne House of Habs-
burg, containing 800 Inhab. j^q

&atzerland. route 6. — vindonissa. kSnigsfelden.

cut and entrance to it are guarded
% bigb conical roofed towers. The
S^mne Thurm (Black tower) is a
^Boman building of the age of the
Lowei Empire. Brugg is the birth-
place of Zimmermann, physician of
^Frederick the Great, who wrote on
Solitude.

The country around Bni^g is in-
terestiiig, both in a geographical and
hi^orical point of yiew. In the plain,
a little below the town, three of the
pri^pal rivers of Switzerland which
urain the N. slopes of the Alps, from
the Onsons to the Jura, the Limmat,
theBeoss, and the Aar, form a junc-
tion, and, united under the name of
the Aar, tbrow themselves into the
Bhine aboat 10 m. below Brugg, at a
place called Coblenz.

Close opoQ this meeting of the wa-
ters, and on the triangular tongue of
land between the Aar and Reuss,
stood Vindmiasa, the most important
settlement of the Komans in Helvetia,
as well as their strongest fortress on
this frontier, on which they placed
their chief dependence for maintain-
ing this portion of their empire. Its
works extended 12 m. from N. to S.
Yet scarcely any portion of it now
appears above ground; traces of an
amphitheatre, a subterranean aque-
^wjt, which conveyed water from
^vmeggberg, 3 m. off, foundations
of walls, broken pottery, inscriptions,
wd coins, have been turned up by the
^S^ from time to time, and its name
if preserved in that of the miserable
Im Tillage of Windisch,

** Within the ancient walls of Vin-
^^nssa, tbe castle of Habsburg, the
*^y of Kbnigsfeld, and the town of
Wk bave successively arisen. The
plaloaophic traveller may compare the
ymnments of Roman conquests, of
i«jW or Austrian tyrann^j-, of monk-
^TjiJperstition, and of industrious
J**^ If he be truly a philosopher,
he ^ applaud the merit and nap-
I»i»e8Bof his own time."— (7i66on.

H 0. E. of Brugg stands the Abbey

f^Wggfelden (King's field), founded,

^^^%hj the Empress Elizabeth, and

-^68 Queen of Hungary, on the

^i where, two years before, their

husband and father, the Emperor
Albert, was assassinated. The con-
vent, a group of gloomy piles, was sup-
pressed in 1528; part of it is now con-
verted into a farm-house, an hospitaL
and a mad-house ; the rest is falling to
decay. The dilapidated Church con-
tains some very fine painted ^lass,and
numerous pavement tombs, with sculp-
tured coats of arms of a long train of
nobles who fell in the battle of Sem-
pach. The large vaults beneath were
the burial-place of many members of
I the Austrian famUy, including Agnes,
and Leopold, who fell at Sempach, but
they were removed hence into the Aus-
trian dominions in 1770. According to
tradition the high altar stands on the
spot where Albert felL He was about
to invade Switzerland with his army,
had crossed the ferry of the Beuss in
a small boat, leaving his suite on the
opposite bank, and attended only by
the four conspirators. The chief of
them, John of Suabia, his nephew —
who had been instigated to slay him
by the wrong he endured in being
kept out of his paternal inheritance
by his uncle — ^first struck him in the
throat with his lance. Balm ran him
through with his sword, and Walter
von Essenbach cleft his skull with a
felling-stroke. Wart, the fourth, took
no share in the murder. Although
the deed was so openly done, in broad
day, almost under the walls of the
Imperial Castle of Habsburg, and in
sight of a large retinue of armed at-
tendants, the murderers were able to
escape in different directions ; and the
imperial retainers took to flight, leav-
ing their dying master to breathe his
last in the arms of a poor peasant who
happened to pass.

A peasant'girl that royal head upon her
bosom laid,

And, shrinking not for woman's dread, the
face of death sorvevM :

Alone she sate. FVom hill and wood low
sunk the mournful sun ;

Fast gushed the fount of noble blood. Trea-
son his worst had done.

With her long hair she vainly pressed the
wounds to stAanch their tide ;

Unknown, on that meek, humble breast. Im-
perial Albert died. — Mrs, Hemang,

A direful vengeance was wreaked
by the children of the murdered

EOaXE 6. — CASTLE OF HABSBlTRG. BADEN*

Sect. 1.

monarch; not, however, upon the
murderers — for, with the exception of
"Wart, the only one who did not raise
his hand against him, they all escaped
— but upon their families, relations,
and friends ; and 1000 victims are be-
lieved to have expiajbed, with their
lives, a crime of which they were to-
tally innocent. Queen Agnes grati-
fied her spirit of vengeance with the
sight of these horrid executions, ex-
claiming, while 63 unfortunate men
were butchered before her, "Now I
bathe in May-dew!" She ended her
da.ys in the convent of Konigsfelden,
which she had founded and endowed
with the confiscated property of those
whom she had slaughtered. Penance,
prayer, and almsgiving could avail
but little to stifle the qualms of a
guilty conscience for the bloody deeds
which she had committed; and it is
recorded that a holy hermit, to whom
she had applied for absolution, replied
to her, " Woman 1 God is not to be
served with bloody hands, nor by the
slaughter of innocent persons, nor by
convents built with the plunder of
orphans and widows, but by mercy
and forgiveness of injuries.** The
building in which she passed 50 years
of her life was destroyed ; that which
is shown as her (xell is not so in
reality. There was a grove of oaks
on the spot at the time the murder
was committed. The tree under
which Albert fell was converted into
a chest to hold Agnes' jewels, and is
still preserved.

About 2 m.from Brugg, on a wooded
height called Wiilpelsberg, stand the
remains of the Castle of Habsburg, or
Habichtsburg (Hawk's Castle), the
cradle of the House of Austria, built
by Count Radbod of Altenburg, 1020,
an ancestor of the family. A mere
fragment of the original building now
exists. The tall, square keep of
rough stones has walls 8 ft. thick ;
and beneath it a dungeon, to be en-
tered only by a trap-door in the floor
above. The view from it is pictu-
resque and interesting; the eye ranges
along the course of the three rivers,
over the site of the Boman Yindonissa
and Konigsfelden, the sepulcbxe of

imperial Albert: on the S. rises the
rmned castle of Braunegg, which be-
longed to the sons of the tyrant
Gessler; and below it Birr, where
Festalozzi, the teacher, died, and is
buried. It takes in at a single glance
the whole Swiss patrimony of the
Habsburgs — an estate far more limited
than that of many a British peer —
from which Budolph was called to
wield the sceptre of Charlemagne.
The House of Austria were deprived
of their Swiss territories by papal ban,
150 years after Rudolph's elevation:
but it is believed that the ruin has
again become the property of the
Austrian Emperor by purchase.

On quitting Brugg, the rly. leaves
the Aar. It traverses Oderdorf (near
which are scanty remains of a Roman
amphitheatre), and crosses the river
Reuss to the

Turgi Junction Stat,, where the branch
from Waldshut (Rte. 7) joins the main
line from Olten to Ziirich. (A large
cotton manufacture here.) Since this
line was opened, travellers from Man-
heim or Heidelberg may reach Ziirich
by the express train in 9 ^rs., without
changing carriages from Klein Basel.

From hence the rly. keeps the I
bank of the Xiimmat to

Baden Stat, {Inn: Waage (Ba-
lances): the best hotels are at the
baths, more than ^ mile from the
town). — This ancient walled town,
of 1800 Inhab., is squeezed within a
narrow defile on the L bank of the
Limmat, here crossed by a woodea
bridge. The ruins of the Castle over-
look it from a rocky eminence, no w tun-
nelled through by the Ziirich Railway,
well worth ascending for the singular
view. It was anciently the residence
and stronghold of the Austrian
princes. Here were planned the expe-
ditions against the Swiss, which were
frustrated at Morgarten and Sempach.
At length when the Pope, in 1415,
excommunicated the Archduke Fre-
derick, the Swiss took it and burnt it
In the Eathhaus of Baden the pre-
liminaries preceding the treaty of
peace which terminated the war of
the Spanish Succession, were arranged
by Prince Eugene on the part of

Smtzerland.

ROUTE 7. — BASLE TO SCHAFPHA0SEX.

Austria^ and by Marslial Yillars for
^nuice, in 17-12.

Baden im Argau, like its namesakes
in Baden and Austria, was frequented
on acoount of its mineral waters by
theBomans, who called it ThermoB Hcl-
wtica;. It was sacked and destroyed
by Ciecma. Tacitus mentions it as
"in modmn municipii exlructus locus,
^mcmo salubrium aquarum usu fre-
mimr-Hist. i. 67.

The^otts (//iTis; Stadthof, best;
^^athof ; SchiflF), on the borders
^ the Linunat, J mile below or N.
w tbe town, are resorted to between
Jane and Sept. by numerous visitors,
15,000 in 1861, chiefly French and
Swiss. The waters are warm and sul-
phoreoM, having a temperature of
118^ Fahr. There are 1 9 springs and
a copious outflow, and are good for
rheamatism, &c.

The Swiss Baden, though not equal
in beauty to its namesakes in other
parts of Europe, has considerable
attractions in the country around it.
The rocky heights on each side of the
nver—the one surmounted by the
joined castle, the other partly covered
by vineyards— form a portal through
which the Linomat pours. Before this
gorge was formed, Baden and the
ooontry above it must have been a
^tlake.

Agreeable walks are made for in-
Talids by the side of the Limmat, and
^"8ny pleasant excursions may be
®*de in the country around — the
inost interesting being that described
JoTe, to Schintznach (8 miles), by

Wmdiach, Konigsfelden, and Habs-

bnrg.

Boman relics are constantly dis-
«OTered in this district. Gambling
^t have been a prevailing vice
Jwng the visitors to the baths, and
*je Koman Legions stationed here,
^^ is true that a neighbouring field
™* obtained the name of Dice Meadow
(Wurfel ^iese), from the quantity of
*^diig up in it.

"^hiUroad passes by a tunnel 800

feet long, under the Stein or Castle

^^ runs along the L bank of the

-'^^t. It passes CEstadten Stat.

Md SehKeren Stat^ The Cistercian

content of Wettingen, a vast building
with many courts, gardens, &c., sur-
rounded by a wall, is situated in an
angle formed by a bend of the river
on its rt. bank. It was suppressed by
the council of the canton (Aarau),
1841, and is now a seminary. Its
church, founded in 1227, contains tombs
qf some early counts of Habsburg and
Kybur^, the stone cofiin in which the-
body of the Emperor Albert was in-
terred for 14 months after his murder,
painted glass, carved stalls, &c. The
railway makes a great bend here.

Dielikon, The stately buUding 1.
on the height surrounded by vine-
yards is a Kelterhaus (wine-press) of
the convent of Wettingen. Near this
village the French, under Massena,
crossed the river, Sept. 24, 1799— a
masterly movement, wnich led to the
defeat of the Eussians and the capture
of Ziirich.

The landscape becomes very ani-
mated in the neighbourhood of Ziirich.
The distant Alps on the rt and the
long ridge of the Albis, terminating
towards Ziirich in the Uetliberg,
erowned with its Inn, are conspicuous
objects. The Sihl river is crossed.

ZiJRiCH StIt. In Kte. 9. Station,
on the former Schutzenplatz.

ROUTE 7.

BASLE TO SCHAFFIIAUSEN, THE RHINE
FALLS, AND CONSTANCE, BY WALDS-
HUT. — RAIL.

£ng. m.
Basle.

PJieinfelden lo

Sackingen ...... 20

LauffenbuTg ..... 26

Waldshut 35

Schaffhausen 64.

Terminus at the Baden Stat., in
Klein Basel.

This railway runs on the rt. or
Baden side of the Khine, in continua-
tion of the Baden Bailway, and was
extended 1863 to Schaffhausen and
Constance.

ROUTE 7. — Ajjasna. waldshut.

Sect. !•

[On the opposite side of the Bhine,
a little before Rheinfelden, is

Attgst, which stands on each side
of the small river Ergolz, on the site
of the Roman city Augusta Rauracorumy
founded by Munatius Plancus, in the
reign of Augustus. Its existence on
this spot is sufficiently proved by the
quantity of Roman remains that have
been, and still are, discovered, wher-
ever the ground is turned up. There
are indications of an amphitheatre,
now converted into pleasure grounds ;
but the remains of buildings are very
slight. The relics which have been
found are curious, though the pro-
prietor of the ground has arranged
them in the style of a tea-garden.
There are several columns, inscrip-
tions, tombs, and fragments of statues,
all of the Lower Empire; but which
the antiquary would do well to ex-
amine, as they are inedited.]

Grenzach , ^tat. Excellent wine
grown here. The line approaches the
Khine, breaking and foaming over
rocks near

Rheinfelden Stat. (^Inn : Krone, Post,
saltwater baths), a town of 1 500 Inhab. ,
surrounded by walls and closed at
either end by gates in the true Swiss
fashion. It stands on the 1. bank of
the Khine, here crossed by a covered
wooden bridge, above and below which
the rocks in the river bed form con-
siderable rapids and falls. The town
is partly buDt of fragments of Roman
masonry brought from the ruins of
Augst. Opposite the inn is a hand-
some fountam, a pillar of bronze, sup-
porting a standardbearer with the
arms of the town. Duke Bernard of
Saxe Weimar gained a battle here in
the Thirty Years' War (1638) in which
the Due de Rohan perished.

The success of Baron v. Glenck at
Schweitzerhall (Rte. 1) induced se-
veral companies to follow his example
in boring for salt. Brine was reached
in 1845 at Rheinfelden at a depth of
351 ft., and below it was a bed of
rock salt 80 feet thick. At Ryburg,
4 m. to the E., the salt is first reached
500 ft. below the surface. At both
places the brine that is piunped up
IS almost saturated, containing 26 per

cent, of salt. Their joint produce is
124,000 cwt. The companies are
bound by similar conditions to those
described in Rte. 1.

Sdchingen Stat, has a fine Abbet/ Ck,
with 2 towers.

Klein Lauffenburg Stat, connected
by a wooden bridge with

Lauffenburg {Inn : Adler (Aigle),
clean, rather dear), a town of 900
Inhab. on the 1. bank of the Rhine.
The river flows in a deep-sunk chan-
nel, rugged with rocks which fret its
bright blue-green waters; it is here
interrupted by more rapids and falls,
in German called Lauffen, whence the
name of the place. Small boats can <
only pass them by unloading their
cargoes above, and being let down
gradually by stout ropes, held by men
stationed on the bank. It was in
descending these rapids in this man-
ner that a young English nobleman,
Lord Montague, the last male of his
line, was drowned — on the same day
that his family mansion, Cowdray, in
Sussex, was burnt to the ground.
The accident is commonly, but erro-
neously, referred to the Rhine fall at
SchafiFhausen. There is a productive
salmon-fishery here.

The Fall is not seen from the stat

Waldshut Jund. Stat, (/nru : Rebstock
(Vine), clean and reasonable; Ba-
discher Hof); a walled town of 1000
Inhab., on the skirts of the Black
Forest. [The Swiss Junct. Rly.
crosses the Rhine and ascends the rt.
bank of the Aar to

Turgi Junct. Stat.^ near a small vil-
las^ called Coblenz (Confluentia) : the
Rhine is here joined by the Aar.]

The Schaffhausen railway leaves
the Rhine and proceeds along a
tolerably level but dull and un-
interesting country, enlivened only by
occasional distant views of the moun-
tains.

Thiengen Stat.

At Erzingen Stat, the Baden terri-
tory is quitted, and soon afterwards
canton Schaffhausen is entered.

Neuhausen Stat, (on the rt. bank)
— Tnns : Schweizer Hof, very good ;
pleasant gardens extending to the
Ilbine, and fine view ; the obliging

ROtm: 7. — rALifl oy the khihe.

landlord has acquired ihe exclosiie
ligbt of fishing: pnuion, 40 &. a week,
lyi It. a moath. BellcTue, E. and
Benson, Tery gijod. [/niu on the L
bank, opposite NeahauieD — H. du
CbftUtn de Xjaufen ; omiublueA to
Diduoi Slat. H. Witag, good and
cWp.Udiat Stat.:aoTiew^ Ble.9.

Whether the traveller stop at Nen-
ktnun Stat, or at Dochiea S tat, he will
Sai ihe utmost &cilities for viewing
Ibe Falls Cram all points. He nay cross

ing stage, or mde balcony, of stoat
timbers, the Kscheti, thrown out, like
the bowsprit of a ship, frota the T^rtical
cliff Co within a few feet of the fall. It
actually oierhaDgs the roaring shoot,
and, though perfectly secure, trembles
under the impulse of the watet'.
Here, covered with the spray, the
traveller may eqoy the full c;rBji-
deur of this /i4ll <if wateri ; ana it is
only by this close proximity, amidst
the tremendous roar and the uninter'
rupled rush of the rirer, passing with
the swiftness of an arrow above hii
head and beneath his f^t, that a true
notion can be formtd of the stupen-
dous nature of this cataract. The
best time for seeing the fall is about 8
in the morning, when the iris floats
within the spray (provided the sun
shines], and by moonlight. The river
is usually most full in the month of
July. 'Ihe Rhine, above the fall, is
about 300 feet broad; the height of
the fall varies from 60 feet on one
side lo 45 on the other; but, including
the rapids above, the entire descent is
not less than 100 feet Two isolated
pillars of rock, standing in the middle
of the stream, divide the fall into 3
shoots. Seen from behind, these pin-
nacles apfiear eaten away by the con-
stant friction of the water, and totter'

the stone bridge above the Falls, and
retom by Ferry below the Falls,
Our advice is to approach them first
from Lanfen Castle on the 1. bank.
Thus nothing will be seen of them
nti] they are at once presented in
tknr most magnificent point of view.
It will take at least 3 hours to see
As &IU properly.

_ The garden of the Castte of Laifen
ii litnated on a high rock overlookmg
tbefall; a charge of 1 fr. is made for
fub person admitted to the castle and
ths walks. Here is also a print-
iam, where liews of the Ehine,
fa, are for sale, also maps and
£nid«-lM>o1iB. There are several plat-
Ibnu and kiosks in the gardens, from
i4ich views of the falls are obtained,
sad several flights of very rude stone
and wooden steps conduct to a project-

mory of man has not been perceptible.

The river, after its leap, forms a

large semicircular bay, as it were to

itself ; the sides of which a

Billow!

on the rt. bank, stands the Castle of
W6rih, a square tower, containing a
camera obsoura, which shows the ull
in another and a very singular point
of view. From this tower to the foot
of the rock on which the castle of
Laufen stands, boats ply,
visitors across, charging J
The boats are much tossed abau
their passage, but make it without
risk. The boatmen below the falls
m land adventurous travellers on

the c

iteady h
the bU 1

ROUTE 7.' — SCHAFFHAUSEN. MINSTER.

Sect. I^

vantage-ground. These boatmen ap-
pear to enjoy a monopoly, and are
insolent.

Arrangements are made for illumi-
nating the falls by night.

The discharge of water at the Falls
is about 80,000 cub. ft. per second.
The broken nature of its bed is such
that, during the low waters in
the early spring of 1848 and 1858,
men were able to cross it by leaping
from rock to rock. An iron monu-
ment commemorates the event.

On the rocks on the rt. bank are
some iron-works, the hammers of
which are worked by the fall. The
buildings and smoky chimneys ma-
terially injure the beauty of the falls.
Immeaiately above the falls is the
stone bridge of the Schaffhausen and
Ziirich Railway, which passes near
the Castle of Laufen and the falls.
(Rte. 9.)

It is a fact worth noticing that no
classic or ancient author mentions
the Bheinfall.

Schaffhausen Stat, at the Ober-
thor, near the Promenade. (^Inns : in
the town— Couronne, fair, not far
from the station; Post (Schwam);
Lion. On the S. side of the Bhine,
— Cerf (Hirsch), clean, cheap. Por
hotels at the Palls see last page.)

Schaifhausen (8700 Inhab., Prot.)
stands on the right bank of the
Rhine, just above the spot where
the rapids and falls commence, which
render that river unnavigable as far
as Basle. It was originally a landing-
place and magazine, at which the
portage of goods began and ended,
and owes its origin and name to the
boat or skiff houses, here erected. It
is distinguished above almost every
other town in Switzerland by the an-
tique architecture of its houses, whose
fronts and projecting oriel windows
are decorated with carvings and
stucco-work. Many of them were
originally entirely covered externally
with fresco paintings, but of these
there' are now few examples : the
house called Zum Bitter, nearly op-

posite the Couronne, is one of the
most remarkable of those that re-
main. The houses or halls of the
ancient Guilds, or ZOnfte, are worthy
of attention on account of their quaint
inscriptions and allusive ornaments.
The wall and turreted gateways ot
the town have been preserved, and
furnish very picturesque subjects for
the pencil. There are a few manu-
factures of iron, silk, and cotton. The
water power is used to set in motion
turbines for turning factory ma-
chinery.

It is almost exclusively on account
of its vicinity to the celebrated Falls
of the Bhine that Schaffhausen is
visited. It has little resort, except
from the passage of travellers, it beine
one of the portals of Switzerland, and
there is litUe within the town to de-
serve notice. On the height above
it rises the Castle called Munnoth
(Munitio?). Its tower has walls of
great thickness (18 feet), built in
1564. It is provided with bomb-proof
casemates, and is a curious specimen
of the transition style of fortification.
There are subterranean passages under
it. The whole is shown (1 fr. for a
small party),

Frederick Duke of Tyrol (Empty-
purse) conveyed away Pope tTonn
XXin. from the justice of the Council
of Constance, 1415, and kept him safe
in the castle of Schaffhausen, for
which he was placed under the ban of
the Empire.

The Minster — originally the Abbey
of All Saints — was founded 1052. It
is in the Bomanesque style, remark-
able for the solidity of its construc-
tion, and as exhibiting an unal-
tered specimen of that style. The
arches of the nave are supported by
single circular columns, ana those in
the centre, of the transept by square
piers of the most massive kind. The
cloister attached to the church con-
tains a profusion of monuments of the
magistrates and patrician families, but
everything is covered with plaster and
whitewash.

The public walks (^Fdsistaub) out-
side the town on the W* side com-
mand fine views of the Bhine, &c.

Switzerland. boute 8. — sohaffiuusent to Constance.

There are baths olose to the Rhine
sad a swimmingobath in the river.

The Town Library contains the col-
lection of books of the Swiss historian
MaUer, who was born here; also a
JfiMeum of antiquities, painted glass,
church plate, carvings, &c., from old
convents,

Raibcays to Winterthur and Ziirich,
to Basle, and to Constance.

DSigences to Donaueschingen and
Preiburg (on the road to Strasburg
and Frankfurt).
Ommbus to the Falls (1 fr.).
The Falls of the Rhine are about
3 miles below Schaffhausen. Thej
are easilj accessible by the 2 rlys.
N. and S. of the river, Neuhausen
Stat, on the N^ and the Dach-
sen Stat, of the Rly. to Ziirich, being
but 10 min. firom the falls. There are
hotels on both banks, better and more
convenient than those of Schaff-
hausen.

KOUTE 8.

KHAPPHAUSEN tO CONSTANCE — RAIL. —
LAKE OP CONSTANCE.

There are 2 routes, both recom-
"aendable. A. along N. bank of Rhine :
'ly- 5 trains daily, If hr. B. road
Juong S. side. The steamer by the
river has ceased to run.

A. 1\ud Hallway t on the N, side of the
Wune, takes a N. direction by Her-
blingen Stat, to Thayingen, where it
enters Baden and proceeds to the
Lower Lake near Kadolfszell.

Singen Stat. — (/nn. Krone). Near
tbia place you pass at the foot of
JBbhcAwkU The castle is now dis-

mantled. The lofty rock upon which
it stands ^ives it the appearance of
an Indian hill-fort

Radolfszell Stat, — (/im ; Poste, good)
— a desolate town, with a fine church,
In the true German-Gothic style.

The scenery is exceedingly agree-
able, often striking. The woo<ls abound
in most splendid butterflies. Collec-
tions of these insects may be bought
at Singen, and also at RadolfszelL
Beichenau Stat.

Traversing the isthmus between the
Lower Lake of Constance and the bay
of Ueberlin^n, the rly. reaches the
Rhine opposite Constance, having first
traversed the island on which stands
the convent (now a manufactory)
where John Huss was shut up.

The Rhine here, suddenly con-
tracted from a lake to a river, is
crossed by a handsome Iron Bridge,
which also gives passage to the high
road, in order to reach

Constance Stat. (See next page.)
B. 77ie Sioiss Road runs along the L
bank of the Rhine, past the Nunneries
of Paradies and Katherinethal, the
former belonging to the order of St,
Clara, the latter of St Dominic; but
the revenues and the number of sisters
in both are now much reduced. The
Austrian army under the Archduke
Charles crossed the Rhine at Paradies
1799.
Diessenhofen — (7n«.* Adler).
Wagenhausen — (^Inn: Ochse, clean
and fair).
[1. A little off the road lies
Stein — (Inns : Schwan ; Krone)
— a town of 1270 Inhab., on the rt
bank of the Rhine, belonging to Schaff-
hausen, united by a wooden bridge
with a suburb on the L bank. The
Abbey of St, George is a very ancient
ecclesiastical foundation. The owners
of the ruined castle of Hohenklingen,
situated on the rocky height, were
originally the feudal seigneurs of the
town, but the citizens obtained inde-
pendence from their masters by pur-
chase.

3 miles E. of Stein, at a height of
between 500 and 600 feet above the
Rhine, are situated the Quarries of
(Ehntngen^ remarkable for the vast

ROUTE 8. — STECKBORN. CONSTANCE.

Sect. 1

abundance of fossil remains of terres-
trial and fresh-water animals found in
them, including mammalia, birds, rep-
tiles, fishes, shells, insects, and plants,
some of them identical with species
now living. The most curious disco-
very is that of the perfect skeleton of
a fossil fox, made by Sir Boderick
Murchison : a very large tortoise had
previously been brought to light. The
beds of rock in which the quarries are
worked consist of marls, limestones,
shales, and building-stone. They lie
immediately above the formation called
Molasse, and differ in their organic
contents from all other fresh-water
formations hitherto discovered.]

Above Stein the Khine expands into
a lake called Untersee (lower lake)
connected again by the Bhine at its
upper extremity with the large Lake
ot Constance. Feldbach, also a nun-
nery, belonging to sisters of the Cis-
tercian order, is passed before reach-
ing

Steckhorn (Inns: Lowe; Sonne).
**In the broad part of the Khine,
where it is still rather a lake than
a river, is the Isle of lieichenau, an-
ciently famed for its Benedictine Mo-
nastery, suppressed in 1799, founded
by one of the successors of Charle-
magne, of which the Church (partly
Bomanesque) and Treasury remain.
In the Treasury are to be seen the
shrine of St. Fortunata, an ivory cibo-
rium, a cope, a crosier, and a missal
of the 10th century."— F. S.

Itznarujf a small village on the
opposite shore of the river, within the
territory of Baden, is the birthplace
of Mesmer, the inventor of animal mag-
netism.

Near the village of Berlingen the
pretty chateau of the Duchess of Dino
appears; and a little further that of
Arenenberg, once the residence of the
late Duchess of St. Leu (Hortense,
ex-Queen of Holland), and of her son
Prince Louis (now the Emperor Louis
Napoleon), before he made his at-
tempt at Strasbourg. It was sold in
1843 to a Neuchatel gentleman, and
more recently repurchased by the
Emperor.

The Castle of GottUehen, on the 1.

of the road, built by the Bishops oi
Constance 1250, on the Bhine, at th<
point where it enters the Untersee, il
remarkable for having been the prison
of John Huss and Jerome of Prague,
who were confined within its dungeons
by order of the Emperor Sig^smund
and Pope John XXTTT. The latter
was himself transferred a few months
later to the same prison, by order of
the Council of Constance. The build-
ing is now the property of Count
Beroldingen.

Petershausen, on the rt. bank of the
Bhine opposite Constance, was a free
abbey of the Empire. A fine iroa
bridge, flanked by statues of Baden
kni^ts and bishops, carries both
road and rly. across the Bhine to

Constance Terminus.

Constance. Inns: Brochet (^ffecht)^
Post (Golden Adler, highly recom-
mended) ; Badescher Hof ; H. Halm.

The Angler can find no better
quarters in Switzerland than at Con-
stance for lake fishing.

Constance, a city of 9400 Inhak,
instead of 40,000, which it once
possessed, is remarkable for its an-
tiquity, since its streets and many of
its buildings remain unaltered smce
the 15th century. Although situated
on the L or Swiss bank of the Bhine,
it belongs to Baden. It occupies a
projecting angle of ground at the
W. extremity of the Bodensee, or
lake of Constance ; its agreeable
position and interesting historical
associations make amends for the
want of life perceptible within its
venerable walls. It has of late^
however, revived considerably ; the
government have formed, at a large
expense, a Port on the lake, which
facilitates the navigation, while it is
an ornament to the town: and several
manufactories of cotton and muslin
have sprung up. The ancient bishop
ric, numbering 87 bishops, was termi-
nated in 1802, and in 1805 Constance
was ceded by Austria to Baden.

The Cathedral or Minster is a hand-
;some Gothic structure, founded 1052,
rebuilt in the 16th cent.; the tower
with spire of openwork in 1850-57, at

mtz&rhnd, route 8.— Constance, minster, kaufhaus.

&eW. end; the oak doorg of the main
IJttal are carved with reliefs of
lJ»?M8ioii of our lord, by Simon
Babder, 1470. The nave is sup-
?ated by sixteen pillars, each of a
«m©8Uock, and dates from the 13th
cwtnry. The spot where the ** Arch-
heretic Boss** stood, as sentence of
w«tiihy burning was pronounced on
him hy Ids unrighteous judges, is still
pointed out Robert Hallam, Bishop
oiSjlisbory, who presided over the
En^Hsli deputation to the council, is
bnried here, in front of the high altar,
iJndtt a tomb, which is very remark-
able, as being of English brass, which
is fiiDjproTed by the workmanship.
lt^«S]^bably sent over from Eng-
W by his executors. He wears the
Order of the Garter. Beneath the ch.
\% tk^«^ UDcient crypto Two sides of
the ancient *Cloisiers^ whose arches
are filled in with beautiful tracery,
m yftl standing. On the E. side of
tlie cstbedral is a chapel, perhaps a
baptistery, in the centre of which is
a feolbic Holy Sepulchre.

There are some missals, plate relics

in the Sacristy, also a beautiful Go-

^c in^XifiQ and piscina. In the

Vestrtj-rom above are a range of cup-

iioards or presses of carved oak, none

dialateiaate than the 15th century.

There is a beautiful view from the

tower of the cathedral, W. over the

^ ^eand mountains of Tyrol, and E.

onr the valley of the Bhine.

Tk Dominican Convent^ now a cot-

VB-|amting establishment, is the place

^ Hubs was confined. The church

1 fans a picturesque ruin, in the early

^(^German Gothic. The cloisters

I W perfect. The rly. crosses the

^island upon which this building

h the ffall of the Kaufhads (built
}^|as a warehouse), close to the
^the Council of Constance held
KXtttfits sittings 1414-18, in a large
won supported by wooden pillars.
ThatJiBious assemoly, composed, not
oflnsliops alone, like the ancient
ANioetli, but of deputies, civil and
eedesasdcal, from the whole of Chris-
tendom, including princes, cardinals
ApatriaTchs (4), archbishops (20),
[>r«<.]

bishops (150), professors of univer-
sities and doctors of theology (200),
besides a host of ambassadors, inferior
prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was con-
vened for the purpose of remedying
the abuses of the church. It exerted
its influence in curbing the Papal
power, by deposing the infamous John
XXUI. and Benedict XUL, and by
electing in their place Martin V. it
was by the act of this council that
John Huss and Jerome of Prague
were seized and executed, in spite of
the safe-conduct granted to the former
b^ the Emperor Sigismund, the pre-
sident of the assembly.

The chairs occupied by the Em-
peror and Pope, a model of the dun-
geon, now destroyed, in which Huss
was confined ; it is of the same size as
the original, and in it the actual door
and other fragments have been incor-
porated;— also the car on which he
was drawn to execution ; the figure of
Abraham, which supported the pulpit
from the Minster, and which tne
people mistook for Huss, and de-
faced accordingly, and some other
relics of the council, still remain in
the hall, besides a collection of Roman
and German antiquities, dug up in the
neighbourhood. 1 fr. is charged for
admission.

The house in which JIuss lodged,
bearing a rude likeness of him, is
pointed out in the Paul's Strasse, near
the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into
prison, soon after his arrival, in the
Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence
he was removed to a more irksome
dungeon, affording scarcely room to
move, in the before -mentioned Domi'
nican Convent,

The field, outside of the town, in
the suburb of Briihl, in which he suf-
fered martyrdom, with a fortitude
which moved even his judges and
executioners to admiration — nay, even
the place where the stake was planted,
are still pointed out; and rude images
of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay
taken from the spot, are offered for
sale to the stranger.

Here is a capital Swimming Bath
at the Ecole de Natation in the midst
of the lake, approached by a long

^ I

ROUTE 8.— CONSTANCE. LAKE OF CONSTANCE.

Sect.

plank bridge, at the end of which,
stuck up in large letters visible far
off. may be read the temperature of
the waters.

Excursions may be made hence to
Reichenau (see above), Meinau, and
Heiligenberg. The island of Meinau,
about 4 m. N. of Constance, is a well-
cultivated little estate, with no want
of trees. The house was once a com-
mandery of the Knights of the Teu-
tonic Order. It was purchased, 1853,
by the Grand Duke of Baden. From
the terrace of the garden there is a
magnificent view over the lake, of the
mountains of the Vorarlberg and
Appenzell, among which the Sentis
is pre-eminent. Meinau is approached
by a wooden foot-bridge J m. long,
connecting it with the shore; there is
an inn on the island.

From Hohenrain, 1 hour's walk, is
a fine view of the Alps.

Railway to Schaffhausen and Basle
(Baden line).

Diligences or steamer to Romans-
horn, thence by rail to Zurich ; —
gteamer to Rorschach, thence by rail
to St. Gall or Coire (Railway direct
to Zurich begun).

Lalie of Constance, or Boden See,
About 20 Steamboats navigate the
lake of Constance. The time and
place of starting are promulgated in a
printed tariff, which will be found
hung up in all the inns near the lake.
It takes 2J hours to go from Con-
stance to Lindau, and 1 J to Rorschach
or Friedrichshafen. Friedrichshafen
to Romanshom 1 hr. ; to Rorschach
IJ hr. Romanshom to Linda,u, 1^
hr. The steamers take carriages.
The numerous stoppages, and the
shifting of passengers from one
steamer to another, are annoyances
for which travellers must be prepared.
The lake of Constance, called by
the Germans Boden See, and anciently
known to the Romans under the nanie
Zacus Brigantinus (from Brigantia, the
modem Bregenz), is bordered by the
territories of 5 different states — ^Ba-
den, Wiirtemberg, Bavaria, Austria,
and Switzerland; and a portion of its
coasts belongs to each of them. It is

about 24 m. long, from Bregenz t>
Constance, and 16 from Bregenz "ti
Friedrichshafen; about 10 m. wide ii
the broadest part; 964 ft. is its great
est depth ; and it abounds in fish, o
which 25 species have been enuine
rated. It lies 1385 ft. above the sea.

A telegraph iron cable has beei
sunk, and works between Rorschacl
and Lindau at 293 feet, and betweer
Romanshom and Friedrichshafen ii
nearly 900 feet in depth.

Its main tributary is the Rhine.
which enters at its E. extremity, and
flows out under the walls of Constance.
The accumulated deposits of the river
have formed an extensive delta at the
upper end of the lake, and are an-
nually encroaching farther.

Its banks, either flat or gently nn-
dulating, present little beauty of
scenery compared with other Swiss
lakes; but they are eminently distin-
guished for their fertility, and its S.
shore is studded with a picturesque
line of ruined castles or hill-forts of
the middle ages.

At its E. extremity it displays
alpine features in distant glimpses of
the snow-topped mountains of Vorarl-
berg, but me distant Sentis towers
over the cultivated slopes which border
the lake, and is a fine feature all the
way from Constance.

Its waters, on an average, are lowest
in the month of February, and highest
in June and July, when the snows
are melting: it sometimes swells afoot
in 24 hours at that season.

On quitting Constance, to the rt. is
the suppressed Augustine convent of
Kreuzfingen, now turned into an agri-
cultural school, with 70 or 80 pupils.
The edifice dates from the end of the
30 years' war, in the course of which
the preceding building was destroyed.

The Church possesses in a side
chapel some wood-carvings hy a
Tyrolese, representing the Passion,
with several hundred small figures;
also a vest embroidered with pearls,
the gift of Pope John XXIL in
1414.

The canton of Thurffovia, wWqh
occupies the S. shore of ttie lake horn

Svntzerland.

ROUTE 8. — ARBON. BREGENZ.

Constance to Arbon, is distinguished
for its surpassing fertility. Instead
of Tocks and mountains, and alpine
pastures, Ae characteristics of other
parts of Switzerland, this canton pre-
sents richly-cnltivated arable land,
waving with com and hemp; the place
of forests is supplied by orchards; it
is, indeed, the garden and granary of
Helyetia. The country is at the same
time thickly peopled, abounding in
iriUages and cheerful cottages.

The nunnery of Miinsterlingen,
about 4 m. further, was suppressed
in 1838, and converted into an hos-
pital The surviving sisters are al-
lowed to occupy one wing of the
building during their lifetime. The
oid convent near the water was the
scene of the reconciliation between the
Emperor Sigisnaund and Duke Fre-
derick of Austria, 1418.

liomanshomQTlte. 10)— (H. Bodan)—
Tenninus of the Rly. from Winterthur
and Zurich. It is the port of com-
munication by steamer with

Friedrichshafen, on the-N. shore of
the lake {Inns; Deutsches Haus, at
the Bly. station ; H8tel Nestle, nearer
the steamers, good and moderate ;
Konig von Wiirtemberg; Sonne;
Krone). Here is the Villa of the
King of Wiirtemberg, in which he
^»snafly passes a part of the summer,
^h pleasant Gardens. The rly.
nma down to the side of the steamer,
Atfriedrichshafen is the terminus of
Je Stuttgard Rly., which joins the
»feiRly. at Bruchsal. See Hand-
WW Joe South Germany.

M>» {Inns: Kreutz; Traube), a

^tedtown of 660 Inhab., close upon

™*^Wffi. The Romans under Au-

g^ built a fort here, upon the

«^wad from Augst and Windisch

to ftegenz^ which they called Arbor

^*' It was abandoned by them to

«Jj6 AHemanni in the ^th century,

JCoe C(a^e, on an eminence overlook-

«§: Ae lake, was bmlt 1510, but its

^weris said to res^ on Roman foun-

«&«I8. The lelfry, detached from

•eehiirch, is boarded, not walled, on ,

«e ode nearest the castle, in order I

that no force hostile to* the lords of
the castle should be enabled to shelter
themselves in it, or annoy the castle
from thence. The monk of St Gall
is said to have died at Arbon (640),
and the place was a favourite residence
of Conradin of Hohenstaufen.

Lindau {Inns : Bayrischer Hof ;
Krone) is the terminus of the Bava-
rian Rly., 5 hrs. from Augsburg. See
Handbook fob South Germany.

Bregenz {Inns : Oesterreichischer
Hof ; Post or Goldener Adler ;
Schwarzer Adler; Krone), the chief
plaQe in the Vorarlberg. Pedestrians
intending to travel from Switzerland
into the Tyrol may find it a good plan
to pass their heavy luggage at the
Austrian custom-house here, and for-
ward it by diligence to Innsbruck or
Botzen. (See Rte. 66, and Handbook
FOR South Germany).

Borschach (Rte. 65). Rly. Termnttg
of the Hallways to St Gall (Rte. 65)
and to Coire up the valley of the
Rhine (Rte. 66). A short distance
from Rorschach is the mouth of the
Rhine, E. of which is the Vorarlberg
in Austrian territory.

n 2

BOUTB 0. — SCHAFFHAUSEN TO ZURICH.

Sect. 1

ROUTE 9.

SCIIAFFHAUSEN TO ZURICH— rjIEIXFALL
RAILWAY.

Stations. £ng. m.

Scbafflmusen.
[ Dacbsen 3

Andelfingen . . • . . 7

Winterthur 18

Kffretikon ...... 2-4

Wullisellen 30

Zurich 35

The Rly. station at Schaffhausen is
just outside the town on the S.AV.
After leaving the town, the rly. cpn-
tinues on the rt. bank of the Rhine
for about 2 m., till just above the
falls, when it turns and crosses the
river by a very long stone hridge.
Immediately afterwards it enters a
tunnel and passes under the Castle of
Laufen. On emerging from the tun-
nel, which is short, a rapid view of
the falls may be caught on the rt.

Dachsen Stat, (Hotel Witzig) is
about 10 min. walk from the Falls
of the Rhine and Schloss Laufen
1)0 tel. (See Rte. 7.) The rly. keeps
for a short distance on the cliffs close
to the Rhine, but high above it, form-
ing a road wonderfully picturesque,
and then quits the Rnine and pro-
ceeds through a fertile country some-
what uninteresting, but with occa-
sional fine views, towards the valley
of the Thur, making a great bend in
order to cross that river near

Andelfingen Stat.

The rly. now ascends a consider-
able inclme, in order to cross the
ridge between the valley of the Thur
and the valley of the Toss, and affords
a fine view on the rt. before descend-
ing into the broad and fertile valley of
the Toss.

Winterthur Junct, Stat. — (^Buffet at
Stat. Inns: *Adler, nearest the Stat.,
good; Wilder Mann, good; — Sonne)
— an industrious manufacturing town
of 6600 Inhab. (chiefly Protestants),
consisting of two long parallel streets,
crossed by eight smaller ones at
right angles. The New Scho6l is the
only conspicuous building.

The weaving of muslin and the

printing of cotton are the most thriv
ing branches of industry here.

This is the junction station of tli(
Rorschach and St, Gall line with th<
Moinanslwm line (Rte. 10).

After leaving Winterthur the rly
follows the rather picturesque vallej
of the Toss, passing rt. the anciem
Dominican Convent of Toss, on th<
road, now converted into a factory
the chosen retreat of the Empresj
Agnes after the murder of her father,
Albert of Austria. JHere her daughter,
in-law, St. Elizabeth of Hungary, took
the veil, and died in the odour oi
sanctity : her monument, with the
arms of Hungary, is visible in the
existing church. The cloisters, built
with the church in 1469, are orna-
mented with fresco paintings of Bible
subjects.

On the banks of the Toss, on the
1, of the railroad, and nearly 4 m. S.
from Winterthur, rises the Castle of
Kyhurg, memorable in history as an
ancient possession of the' House of
Austria, inherited 1264, on the failure
of the line of powerful Counts of
Kyburg, who flourished between the
9th and 13th cents., by Rudolph ot
Habsburg. He and other emperors
often resided here, and kept here the
regalia of the empire. It passed from
them 1375, yet tne Emp. of Austria
still retains the title of Count of
Kyburg. From 1452 to 1798 it was
occupied by a Zurich bailiff (Land
Vognt), and is now private property.
It is furnished in antique style ; con-
tains a picture gallery, chamber of
torture, and old chapel with original
frescoes on its walls. Fine view from
the towers.

The rly. crosses the Toss, and,
quitting that river, follows another
stream into the valley of the Glatt^
up which on the 1. there is a fine view
of Glarnisch and other mountains.

Wallisellen Junct, Stat,

[Here the branch rly. up the manu-
facturing valley of the Giatt to Ruti,
and thence to Coire by Wallenstadt,
joins.]

Shortly after leaving Wallisellen a
long tunnel under the hill of Weid is
traversed ; on emerging from it th(

&ftt2ei'Iaiid»

KOUtE 9.— 'Z&RICH* GROSS MtJNSTER.

limmat is crossed, and after making
wme Tery sharp curves the rly.

mAes
2«ri(A TeminUs^

ZcacH. -fnns: Hotel Baur, a
^fge, handsome, comfortable house,
^^ » reading-room : and a 2nd
Jottse, a quieter hotel, with gar-
Jen, and »U English comforts, close
w the lake, with a fine view, called
J-BanrauLac. These are two of
J|«^t Inns in Switzerland, and
J- MOT is the most poHte and atten-
Jje of landlords. Charges: Table-
|»hoteat5,4frs.; B., 2 frs.; rooms
'ooBng oyer the lake, 3 frs.; bougie,
^ fr.; iatting-room, 6 to 10 frs. In
"^,'^g-room the Times, Galignani,
^ 2 American papers. H. Belle-
jB^onthelake, very good. H.Bilharz,
fonnerij fl. BeUevue, in the town.
«;fl/ei2eriof, on the river, below the
»%, cheap. 2uricher Hof on the
[^Imkof the Limmat, view of the
pp. Schwerdt (Epee). Faucon,
^ house. Storck, commercial
i I? is a good cafe restaurant in
the Hotel Baup.

. Passengers taking the fast mom-

"gtwin from Frankfort may reach

^wich in the day without stopping,

or ejen changing carriages at Basle.

iorich, the most important man.u-

Bcturing tOTvn of Switzerland, and

^capital of a canton distinguished

Jj^all others for prosperous in-

J%, has 20,000 Inhab., or, includ-

5 Its suburbs, 45,000, nearly all

3^nts, and lies at the N. end

f*fi hike of Zurich, and on the

JJ^ of the Limmat, just where it

S ont of the lake in a rapid and

rj^ stream, clear as crystal, and

y«r rirer, the Sihl, flows on the

'\*fe of the town. A Roman

Jpi.r«nc«m (?),on this spot, pro-

r?gave rise both to the town and

*j>ne. The canton became one of

jvj*. confederacy in 1351. The
*J*>tion occasioned more bitter-
JJ«w than in any other canton,
t" ftfi domestic quarrels have
Oj^been very violent. The
^^r% condition of the town is
^ in the improvements going

forward in it, and in the number of
th6 new buildings in and around it*
The banks of the Lake (described in
Rte. 13) and the Limmat, and all the
neighbouring hills, are thickly dotted
over with houses, now united with the
town itself by the removal (in \%'^'^)
of the useless and inconvenient ram-
parts, and forming a wide circle of
suburbs. Ziirich was the scene of a
battle in Sept. 1799, when 37,000.
French under Massena drove out the
Russians under Korsakof, and com-
pelled them to fall back upon the
Rhine with a loss of 8000 men.

Apart from its aereeable situation,
and thriving manufactures, there is
not much to be seen in Ziirich. There
are no fine buildings here: that of the
most consequence is the

* Gross Miinster, on the rt. bank of
the Limmat, surmounted by 2 W.
steeples. It is venerable n-om its
age, and worthy of respect from hav-
ing been the scene of Zwingli's bold
preachings of Reformation in the
church, and amendment of morals.
It is a massive Romanesque edifice
of the 11th and 12th centys. ; very
plain within and without, but in-
teresting in the eye of the architect
and antiquary. It has no W. entrance,
and ends square to the E. Its nave is
supported on square pillars and round
arches: beneath it is a very perfect
crypt. See its very fine N. doorway
with detached shafts and the adjoining
cloisters raised upon small low triple
arches, with slender columns and capi-
tals of various patterns, admirably
carved.

The Frau Munster, close to the Min-
ster Bridge (13th centy.), and the
Barftisser Kirche are worthy of the
architect's attention.

The house in which Zrcingli passed
the last six years of his Ufe is No.
185 in the Grosse Stadt.

The Clu of St, Peter (with the large
clock), on tne 1. bank of the Limmat,
had for its minister, for 23 years,
Lamter, the author of the renowned
work on Physiognomy, who was born
at Ziirich. On the capture of the
town by the French army, he was shot,
within a few steps of his own door,

Msxrknd. route 9. — Zurich, town library, promenades. 31

by & French soldier, to whom, but
two nuaates before, he had given wine
ud offered money, and whue he was
in the u^ of assisting another soldier
who bad been wounded. A high re-
ward was offered by Massena, the
French commander, ror the discovery
ofthemmderer: but Lavater refused
to infonn against him. After linger-
ing throogh three months of excru-
^atiugagonj, Lavater expired, Jan. 2,
180], at the parsonage : his grave is
marked by a simple stone in the church-
yordofSL Ame, where Ebel, author of
the Swiss Guide, and Escher von der
Imth(Kte. 13), are also buried.

St. AugudineX a well-restored ch.,
contams 2 modern frescoes by De-

The Tom library , close to the New
stone bridge, in a building formerly
» chmch (Wasserkirche), contains, in
»jaition to 45,000 printed volumes and
inS&, JOO vols, of autograph letters
weariy Reformers ; 3 Latin letters of
^y Jane Grey toBuUinger, in a beau-
^"blly dear and regular hand— a few
granunatical errors have been re-
mttkedinthem; ZwingU's GreekBible,
J^th marginal notes (chiefly Hebrew)
py himself ; a Boman inscription, giv-
ing the ancient name of Zurich, Turi-
^; a bust of Lavater, by Darmecker;
•portrait of Zwingli and his daughter,
jMaw Assper ; a model in relief of a
j^ part of Switzerland, interesting
"W snperior to that at Lucerne j
2» Tery curious fossils from (Eh-
Jjpo, including one described by
?*««*«r as a human skull, though
iS^l a portion of a salamander —
JJJ of the Glarus slate, chiefly
^from the Plattenberg. Here
?Mp*d a number of antiquities
2* •fflong the remains of Swiss
J* ^/%«, of which Professor
*^18 the exponent.
^wOW Arsenal (Altes-Zeughaus),
2J|j Baur*8 Hotel, contains some
"5^ armour ; also a cross-bow,
r™ tol*(?) that with which William
V JJ ^ the apple from his son's
-r^.,?^gli'8 battle-axe. A sword
ofir.nu.. Tell, and a battle-axe

wije by Uirio ZwingU at the battle
"* ^PPel (B. 16), are of very doubt-

ful authenticity: though the ma-
lice of the enemies of Zwingli may
have led to the assertion tl^at ne took
active part in the fight, it is believed
that he assisted his countrymen merely
with exhortations and consolations of
religion; — and several tattered stand-
ards, taken by the Swiss from their
enemies, including one of Charles the
Bold of Burgundy. This collection is
inferior to those m several other Swiss
cantons.

One of the handsomest modem
buildings is the Polytechnic Institute,
on the hill, near the Great Hospital,
built 1865, from designs of Wolf and
Semper. In it is placed

The University, established 1832-3,
when many professors, expelled
from other countries for their poli-
tical opinions, repaired hither as
teachers. The number of students
is 270. The terrace in front com-
mands a very fine view. The Library
contains many original MSS. of the
early reformers ; and the Museum of
Natural History some good specimens
of Swiss minerals and fossils, together
with the Herbarium of John Gessner,
and a zoological collection.

One of the most pleasing features
about Ziirich is its Promenades and
points of view. One of the best of
them is an elevated mound, once form-
ing part of the ramparts, and called
'''Cats' Bastion (Katz), now included in
the Botanical Garden, which is prettily
laid out in walks and shrubberies, and
opened to the public without restric-
tion, a privilege not abused : it com^
mands a delightful view of the town,
lake, and distant Alps. Nothing can
be more delightful than the view at
sunset from this point, extending over
the smiling and populous shores of
the beautiful lake to the distant peaks
and glaciers of the Alps of Glarus,
Uri, and Schwytz, tinged with the
most delicate pink by the sinking
rays. The most prominent and in-
teresting of the Alpine peaks seen
from this, beginning at the E., are the
Sentis in Appenzell, barely visible ;
Glamisch, Dodi, Klariden m Glarus,
Achsenburg, Kossberg, and Uri Both-
stock. The collection of ^(pin^P/an^s,

ROUTE 9. — ZURICH. ENVIRONS. MANUFACTURES. Sect. T.

embracing 700 species, well desenres
the attention of botanists.

The Hohe Promenade, a raised ter-
race, stretching above the lake from
the heights E. of the town, also com-
mands a good yiew, but more confiifed
than the former.

Environs, a. The Gasthaus Zur Weid,
1 hr. walk on the Baden road, com-
mands a magnificent view of the Alps,
the town, and the vale of the Lim-
mat*

6. The Uetliberg, 2792 ft. 5 m. W. of
the town, one of the Albis range com-
mands a complete panorama, and is
easily accessible in 1 h. to the foot
of the hill and another hour to the
top. The Inn on the top is good and
contains 10 rooms; it is visiteid for the
stke of the view at sunrise, but should
be avoided on Saturday evening, when
it is generally crowded. Pedestrians
might prefer sleeping there, to spend-
ing an idle afternoon in Ziirich. From
the Uetliberg to the Albis Inn (Rte. 16)
is an agreeable walk of 3 hrs.

c. On the triangular piece of ground
at the junction of the Limmat and Sihl,
N. of the Rly. Stat., planted with shady
avenues, is a simple monument to the
memory of Solomon Gessner, author
of * The Death of Abel,' who was a
native of Ziirich.

Zurich is historically remarkable as
the place where the Reformation first
commenced in Switzerland, under the
guidance and preaching of Ulric
Zwingli, in 1519. It had already, at
an earlier period, afforded safe and
hospitable shelter to Arnold of Brescia,
when driven out of Italy for inveigh-
ing against the temporal power of the
Pope. It was the asylum of many
emment English Protestants banished
by the persecutions of the reign of
Queen Mary : they met with a
friendly reception from its inhabitants
during their exile. The first entire
English version of the Bible, by Miles
Coverdale, was printed here in 1535.

Ziirich is the native place of Ham-
merlin the reformer; of Gessner the
poet, and Gessner the naturalist ; of
Lavater; and of Pestalozzi the teacher.

The principal Manufactures are

those of silk, the weaving of wliicli
occupies many thousands in the to^vn
and along the shores of the lake.
There are one or two large cotton-
factories. The Papierhof is a large
paper mill, 1 m. S. of the city on the
river Sihl. The cotton and suk goods
made in the neighbourhood, ancl in
other parts of the canton, are the
object of an extensive commerce ^vith
Germany and Italy, and compete in
price with English goods. Mr.Escher's
large manufactory of machinery em-
ploys 700 persons, including several
English overseers. Most of the iron
steamers plying on the Swiss lakes
are made oy him, and boats, eng'ines
and all, are carried in pieces hy
carts over the St. Gothard to the
Italian lakes. Many of the mann-
facturers of Ziirich have the reputa-
tion of great wealth, without much
polish; hence the expression, **Grosi
sier comme un Zurichois." Those in-
habitants, however, with whom the
traveller comes in contact, areeertainlj
more polished, and ready to oblige,
than the generality of German Swiss.

The modem erections include, be-
sides the fine Hospital, an Orphan Ho^ise
(Waisenhaus), an Asylum for blind
and deaf (Blinden Institut), and a
stone bridge over the river.

English Service on Sundays in St.
Ann's Church.

The Museum Club contains a capital
reading-room, where Galignani, The
Times, John Bull, Examiner, iVthe-
nseum, and Literary Gazette, Quarterly
and Edinburgh Reviews are taken in ;
besides more than 300 of the best
Continental journals. Travellers can
be introduced for a few days by a
member. Open 8-12 a.m. and 2-6 p.m.

Those who enter Switzerland on
this side will do well to provide them-
selves with maps, &c., here.

Leuthold (next door to H. Saur,
speaks English) has a good collec-
tion of guide-books, maps, prints, sta-
tionery, &;c. He is the publisher of
an excellent map.

Booksellers — M^eyer and Zeller ; Orell,
Fuessli & Co. ; Schahelitz.

Kerez, chemist, in the Wein Platz^
makes up English prescriptions.

SiBitzerhi^id.

ROlTTE 10. — ROMANSHORN TO Z&RICH.

Farrer is well recommended as a
Toltniier and job-master.

The Post Ojfice is a handsome build-
ing, &ced with Doric pillars, near the
frau-Munster Kirche, opposite H.
B&ur.

Baihs in the lake near the Bau-
schanze, the parity of which is not to
be surpassed.

Mlvays — ^To Basle, terminns on
the Schiitzenplatz ; to Romanshom
and Schaffhausen ; to St. Gall and
Borsehach; to Coire; to Berne; to
Zogand Lucerne (Rte. 16), bv which
the Rigi top may be reached in about
8 hrs. from Ziirich.

Steamboats go many times a day
from Zurich to the other end of the lake
(Rapperschwyl) and also to Schme-
nkon and back (Bte. 13). The Bigi
top maj be reached fir.om Ziirich in 9
hrs., and Lucerne in 7 hrs., taking the
steamboats to Horgen, and afterwards
across the lake of Zug (Rte. 15) ;
but the Rly. to Zug is quicker.

ROUTE 10.

BOHANSHORN TO Zt^RICH, BY WIKTER-
TnO R. — ^RAILWAY.

Eng. m.

Romanshorn.

Weiafelden StaU .

. . 14

Miillheim Stat. .

. . 19

Franeiifeld Stat. ,

. . 25

Wintenhur Stat.

. . 35

Walliaellen Stat.

. . 46

Orlikon Stat .

. . 48

Zurich Stat. . .

. . 61

HommsJvorn (Hotel Bodan), terminus

of the N.E. Rly., and station for the

steamers from Friedrichshafen, Lin-

dau, and Bregenz (Rte. 8),— a small

Tillage on the lake of Constance. From

a chateau on the heights above it there
is a fine view over the lake (Rte. 8).

Weinfelden^ celebrated for its wines.
The council of the canton Thurgau
sits here.

Muilheim, — A wooden tower has
been erected on the summit of ffohen-
raiiif a hill near this, ' on account of
the extensive view. (See p. 26.)

Fraucnfeld — {Inns : Krone, best :
Hirsch) — the chief town of the canton
Thurgovie (Germ. Thurgau), has
3956 Inhab., and is situated on the
river Murg, which sets in motion the
wheels of several cotton, dyeing, and
printing mills. It is a mean and un •
interesting little place. The Castie,
on a basement of rock fronting the
Murg, was built in the 11th century,
by one of the vassals of the Counts of
Kyburg,

On a hill to the S. of the town
stands the Capuchin Convent, founded
in 1595, now occupied by only 7 or 8
brothers.

Winterthur Junct Stat, (see Etc. 9).

ZiiRicu (Rte. 9).

ROUTE 12.

ZilaiCH TO BERNE, BAILWA7«

£ng. Ob
Zurich.

Baden 15

Aarau 31

Herzogenbuchsee . • . . 6G
Berne ....... 80

Trains in 4 to 5^ hrs. : distance about
80 m. The road is very circuitous:
as far as Olten it is the same as to
Basle (Rte. 6). At Olten it joins the
Basle and Berne line (Rte. 5).

Berne (Rte. 24).

c 3

EOUTB 13. — ZilEICH TO RAGATZ.

Sect. 1.

ROUTE 13.

ZURICH TO RAGATZ, BY THE LAKES OF
ZUBICH AND WALLENSTADT. — RAIL.

Whole distance, 64 Eng. m.

Eng. m.
Zurich.

^ Rapperschwyl (by water) about 19

Uznach (by road or rly.) . „ 9

Wesen (by road or rly.) . „ 11

WaUenstadt (by rly.) . „ 12

Bagatz (by road or rly.) . „ 13

Those who wish to enjoy scenery
will prefer the lake to the rly.

From Zurich (Rte. 9) there are 3
or 4 trains daily each way: travellers
have no difficulty in making the jour-
ney partly by water and partly by rly.,
so as to arrive at their journey's end
by daylight.

10 or 12 Steamboats traverse the
Lake of Zurich, to and fro, 8 times a
day, to Rapperschwl, in 2 to 2 J hours.
Steamer also once a day to Schmerikon,
and back. Some of the steamers zig-
zag from one side of the lake to the
other, to take in and let out passengers
at the different towns.

{Diligences^ &c., at Horgen for Zug
and Arth on the way to the Kigi
(Rte. 15); and at Richterswyl for Ein-
siedeln and Schwytz.]

The Lake of Ziirich has no pre-
tensions to grandeur of scenery; that
must be sought for on the silent and
savage shores of the lakes of Lucerne,
Brienz, and WaUenstadt ; but it
has a charm peculiarly its own —
that of life and rich cultivation. Its
borders are as a beehive, teeming
with population, and are embellished
and enlivened at every step by the
work of man. The hills around it
are less than 3000 feet above the
sea, and descend in gentle slopes
down to the water's edge ; wooded
on their tops, clad with vineyards,

orchards, and gardens on their slopes,
and carpeted with verdant pastures,
or luxuriantly waving crops of ffrain
at their feet. But the principal fea-
ture in this landscape is the number
of human habitations : the hills from
one extremity to the other are dotted
with white nouses, villas of citizens,
cottages, and farms, whQe along the
margin of the lake, and on the high
road, they gather into frequent clusters
around a church, forming villages
and towns almost without number.
Every little stream descending from
the hill is compelled to do duty by
turning some mill ; at the mouths
of the valleys enormous factories are
erected, and thus the shores of the
lake, on either side, have the appear-
ance of one vast and almost uninter-
rupted village.

The effect of this lively foreground
is heightened by the appearance of
the snowy peaks of the Sentis, Dodi,
and Glarnisch, which are seen at
different points peering above the
nearer hills. The charms of the
Lake of Ziirich inspired the Idylls of
Gessner : they are celebrated in an
ode of Elopstock, and in the prose
of Zimmermann. The lake is about
26 miles in length from Ziirich to
Schmerikon, and not more than 3
broad at the widest part, between
Stafa and Wadenschwyl. The princi-
pal river falling into it is the Linth,
which issues out at Ziirich, under the
name of Limmat.

Scarcely any of the villages or
towns on the lake are remarkable,
except as the seats of flourishing in-
dustry. A few only of the principal
places are enumerated below, with
their distance by land from Ziirich.
The banks are distinguished as rt.
and 1., in reference to the course of
the Limmat.

L The high ridge rising on the W.
of Ziirich, and bordering the lake for
more than 12 miles, is the Albis,

rt. Kiissnac?it — {r?m: Sonne) — a vil-
lage of 2114 Inhab. ; not to be con-
founded with its namesake on the
Lake of Lucerne, famous in the his-
tory of Tell.
1. Huschli/ion : behind this are the

Bimtzertand,

BOUTB 13, — 8TAFA. AUFNAXT.

Whs of Njdelbad, with a bath-house
called Belvoir, 340 ft. aboye the lake,
rt. Meilen — (Th/is .• Lowe ; Sonne)
— a Tery considerable village of 3036
Inhab^ chiefly silk-weavers, witH a
Gothic church, built 1490-9. In the
lake opposite Meilen the first disco-
very of those ancient lacustrine dwell-
ing-places, which have attracted so
maoh attention, was made in 1854 by
M. Ferdinand Keller, of Zurich. Their
remains consisted of hundreds of
wooden piles, of weapons of stone
and of bronze, of earthen vases, rudely
woven stuffis, and bones of various

Animals,

L ThalxDyl—(^Inn: Adler.) An ele-
gant chnrdi has been built on a ter-
race, whence there is a lovely panorama
of the lake, with the mounts of Ap-
pensell and Glarus in the background.
Xjavater is said to have written a
portion of his work on Physiognomy at
the parsonage of the village of Ober-
Bieden, about 3^ m. farther on.

I Horgen — (^Inns : Meyerhof, good,
pleasant garden ; Iio we, clean). Here
passengers bound for Lucerne or the
Kigi, by [way of Zug, disembark and
cross the hUls (Bte. 15).

L Wadenschwyl — Qlnn: Seehof,very
fair)— a pretty village of 4357 Inhab.,
containing silk factories. Above it
stands the castle, formerly residence
of the bailiff (oberamtman), now
private property.

I Sichterswyl — (^Inn : Drei Konige).
Here is one of the largest cotton fac-
tories on the borders of the lake.
The village is built on the boundary
line of cantons Ziirich and Schwy tz ;
behind it^ the road to Einsiedeln
ascends the lulls. The pilgrims bound
to that celebrated shrine usually dis-
embark here. (See Bte. 72.) Diligences
thither in the morning, on arrival of
steamers in 2} hrs., and afternoon to
Schwytz. Zunmerman resided here
as phyacian, and in his work on * Soli-
tuae justly praises the extreme
beauty of Richterswyl.

tL Stafa — {Inns: Krone; Sterne) —
sn industrious village, the largest on
this side of the lake, with 3500 Inhab.,
by whom much silk and cotton are
iroyen« Got^e resided here 1797.

The extremity of the lake beyond this
lies out of the limits of the canton
Zurich. It has been calculated that
the number of inhabitants on each of
its banks, hence to the town of Zurich,
a distance of 16 miles, is not less than
12,000.

On approaching Rapperschwyl {see
next pa^e) and its long bridge, the
pretty Uttle isle of Afifnan becomes
a conspicuous feature and ornament
to the landscape. It has some cele-
brity as the retreat and burial-place
of UlricVon Hutten, a Franconian
knight, the friend of Luther and
Franz of Sickingen, distinguished
equally for his talents and chivalrous
bravery, but withal a bit of a roue.
His satirical writings contributed not
a little to the spread of the Re-
formation, but raised up against him
such a host of enemies that he was
forced to fly from the court of
Charles V., and take refuge from
their persecution, first, with Franz of
Sickingen, and, after his death, in
this little island. Zwingli had pro-
cured for him an asylum here, in the
house of the curate, where he died a
fortnight after his arrival (1523), at
the age of 36. He was buried by a
faithful friend, but all record of the
spot in which he lies has long since
disappeared.

The Bridge of Rapperschwyl is one
of the longest in the world: it ex-
tends from the town to a tongue of
land on the opposite side, completely
across the lake, a distance of 4800
ft., or more than 4 of a mile. It is
only 12 ft broad, is formed of loose
planks laid (not nailed) upon piers,
and is unprovided with railing at the
sides, so that only one carriage can
safely pass at a time. It was origin-
ally constructed by Leopold of Aus-
tria, 1358 : the existing bridge dates
from 1819.

A small stone pier has been thrown
out into the lake at Rapperschwyl, a
little below the bridge, outside the
gate of the town, to receive passengers
and merchandise from the steam->
boat. A Federal Arsenal has been
built here.

ROtTTE 13. — RAtPEttScaWYL — LlNTtt VALLEY.

Sec-b. 3

The Railway runs quite away from
the Zurich Lake by

Wallisellen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 9),
where the line to Winterthur diverges
1. ; next by Diibendorf and Nanikon,
following the Glatt Thai, a valley
teeming with manufacturing industry;
and passing

Uster Stat, and Wctzikon Stat., re-
markable for the lacustrine deposits
found in the neighbourhood, espe-
cially at Bobenhausen by the small
Pfaffiken See. Rude structures have
been foimd 6 ft. below a layer of
peat, and with them bones of 3 spe-
cies of urochs; also chamois, bisons,
beavers, boars, &c., with remains of
apples, pears, and cherries. Vieio of
Alps of Glarus, near

JBubikon Stat. 1. rises the Bachtel
(3444 ft. high), with an Inn on its
top. — View. The Rly. does not ap-
proach the Lake of Zurich until near

rt. Eapperschwyl Stat. (Inns : H.
du Cygne (Ruber's), good and civil
landlord ; D. 2 fr. 50 c, D. apart
3 fr., B. 1 fr. 50 c, Br. 1 fr. ;— H.
du Lac; — Freihof, in the town).
This is a very picturesqiie old
town, in canton St. Gall (2500 In-
hab.), still partly surrounded by
walls, and surmounted by an Old
Castle (Der Grafenburg). The C7mrcI^
contains some antique sacred vessels.
Near it, from the terrace called Lin-
denhof, a fine view is obtained. It is
about 19 m. from Ziirich, and the same
distance from Wesen. Roads run from
hence to St. Gall, and across the bridge
to Einsiedeln (Rte. 72) ; Rly. to Glarus
(Rte. 74).

N.E. of Rapperschwyl is a moun-
tain called the JBacJdel (3674 ft.),
with a small inn at the top, which is
visited for the sake of the waters at
Gyrenbad and of view — inferior to
that from the Rigi, yet commanding
an extensive panorama. The summit
is most conveniently reached from the
Ruti Stat. (Rte. 14) in about 2^ hrs.
Mines of lignite are worked at Diirn-
ten and Koepfnach at the foot of the

Bachtel.

Schmerikon Stat. (^Tnn: Ross), at the
E. extremity of the Lake of Zurich.
The castle of Grynaui on the rt,

stands on the Ltnth, a little above its
entrance into the lake. Fedestriaiu
will find the towing-path along
the- Linth canal shorter than the
carriage-road from Schmerikon. -tc
Wesen.

Uznach Stai. (^Tnn: zum Linth-hof!
very fair) — a small town of 1.203
Inhab., on an eminence, the sum-
mit of which is occupied by a small
square tower of the ancient castle
and by that of the church. IHlig<mce
to Lachen, Einsiedeln, Schwytz, and
Brunnen on the Lake of Liuceme.
There are mines of brown coal at
Oberkirch, about a mile from Uznach,
in a hill 1500 ft. high. Near Uznach
is an immense cotton-mill, driving
24,480 spindles, and having 100 ivin-
dows on each side. It is supplied
with water from a mountain-torrent
descending immediately behind it.

Soon after leaving Uznach, the val-
ley of Glarus opens out into view,
with the snowy mountains near its
head, a very beautiful prospect. Out
of this valley issues the river Linth,
an impetuous torrent, fed by glaciers,
and carrying down with it vast quan-
tities of deoris, which had accumu-
lated to such an extent 25 years ago,
that its channel was obstructed, and
its bed raised many feet above the
level of the lower part of the valley.
From this cause arose repeated and
most dangerous inundations, which
covered the fertile district on its banks
with stone and rubbish, and converted
the meadows into a stagnant marsh.
Nearly the entire valley between the
lakes of Zurich and Wallenstadt -was
reduced to a desert, and its inhabit-
ants, thinned in numbers by annual
fevers, arising from the pestilential
exhalations, abandoned the spot. The
valley of the Linth was relieved
from this calamity by Mr. Conrad
Escher, who suggested to the Diet, in
1807, the ingenious plan of digging a
new bed for the waters of the Linth,
and turning it into the lake of Wal-
lenstadt, in whose depths it might de-
posit the sand and gravel which it
brought down, without doing any
damage. He at the same time pro-
posed to improve the issnes of the

Bvatzertand.

fedtJTE 13.— LAKE OP WALLfiNStADt.

lake of Wallenstadt by digpns a na-
'vigable canal from it to we lake of
Zuiich, so as to carry off the waters
of the Linth, and the other streams
lallmg into it, and cause it to drain
tiie intervening TaUey, instead of in-
nndadn? it This important and use-
fal pnbuc work was completed by
Eseher in 1822, and has been attended
with perfect snccess. In consequence
of it the yalley is no longer sterile
and unwholesome, and the high road
to Wesen, which was often cut off and
broken up by inroads of the river, is
now carried in a straight line along
its rt. bank. Immediately opposite
the opening of the valley oi the Linth,
at whose extremity the mountains of
Glams now sippear in all their gran-
dear, a simple Monvmental Tablet of
black marble has been let into the
fiice of the rock by the roadside, to
the memory of the public>spirited
cidzen who conferred this great bene-
fit on the sarroiinding country. He
earned from it, in addition to his
name, the title Von der Linth, the only
title which a republic could properly
confer, and of which his descendants
may be more proud than of that of
count or baron. The total cost was
60,000/. The Linth is here crossed
by a bridge called Ziegelbrucke, over
which runs the road to Glarus. (Itte.
74.) Near it are a cotton manu-
factory and an establishment for the
education of the poor of the canton
Glams. It is called the Linth Co-
hay, because it owes its origiu to
a eolony of 40 poor persons, after-
wards increased to 180, who were
tionght hither by charitable indivi-
dnalsfrom the over-peopled villages
of the canton, and setted on this spot,
iHuch was the bed of the Linth pre-
yvm to Sscher's improvements, in
wder to reclaim it by removing the
stones and rubbish, and rendering it
fit for cultivation. They were lodged,
fed, and allowed a small sum for
Wiges, the expense being defrayed by
mbscription. After having, by these
means and by the correction of the
Linth, descrioed above, restored the
valley to a state fit for apiculture,
and having been iiaved themselves

from starvation, in a season of scarcity,
they were dismissed to seek their for-
tunes with some few savings to begin
the world; and, what was of more
importance, with industrious habits,
which they had learned while settled
here. In the school which now re-
places the colony, 40 children from
6 to 12 are^ taugnt, and teachers are
also instructed.

The Railway runs by the side of
the Linth Canal.

Ziegelbrucke Stat.

Wesen Junct, Stat, is at some dis«
tance from the village and lake.
Here the rly. to Glarus branches rt.
(Rte. 74).

Wesen (//ww ; H. zum Speer, on the
height, clean and comfortable ; VEpee)
is a village of about 500 Inhab., at
the W. extremity of the' lake of Wal-
lenstadt, and in the midst of scenery
of great magnificence.

The ascent of the Speer is made in
3^ hrs. from Wesen: it commands a
noble view. From the summit the
traveller may reach Nesslau in the
Toggenburg (Rte. 71) in 2^ hrs.

There is an interesting pass without
any difficulties fromWesen toWildbaus
(Rte. 7 1 ) in the Toggenburg. It crosses
the ridge between the Leistkamm and
the Guhnen, and may be accomplished,
including the ascent of the Gulmen,
in 7 or 8 hours' walking. [A car-
riage may be hired from Wesen to
the Rigi by way of Einsiedeln (Rte.
72). The road turns out of that to
Ziirich at the Inn, Zum Escher Linth,
crosses the canal, andproceeds through
a pretty country by Galgenen and La-
chen (Ox, a good inn), where it falls
into the route from Rapperschwyl.]

LAKE OP WALLENSTADT.

(More properly Wallensee, 48 ft.
above Lake of Zurich.)

The Railway is carried along the
S. shore, through 10 tunnels lighted
by openings cut through the rock.
The 1. side of the carriage should be
taken.

There is no carriage-road on either
side of the lake.

ttOUTE 13. — ^LlKES OE* WAtLENSf ADt.

Sect, t

Frevious to the constraction of the
Linth canal, the only outlet for the
lake of Wallenstadt was a small stream
called the Magg, which encountered
the Linth after a course of about 2
miles, and was arrested by the debris
and stones brought down by that
river, so that not only were its waters
often dammed up behind, but the sur-
face of the lake was raised several
feet above its ordinary level, in con-
sequence of which they overflowed
the valley both above and below it,
and laid the villages of Wallenstadt,
at the one end, and Wesen, at the
other, under water for many months
during the spring. By Escher's cor-
rection of the course of the Linth, its
waters are now carried into the lake,
where they have already formed, by
their deposit of mud and gravel, a
delta nearly half a mile long. Another
canal, deep and protected at the side
with strong dykes, now supplies the
place of the Magg, and ctains the
lake of Wallenstadt into that of Zurich.

The lake of Wallenstadt is about
12 miles long by 3 broad; its scenery
is grand, but somewhat wanting in
variety, and therefore not equal
to that of the lake of Lucerne.
Its N. shore consists of colossal
cliffs of lime and sandstone, regu-
larly stratified, and so nearly preci-
pitous that there is room for no road,
and only for a very few cottages at their
base, while their steep surface, almost
destitute of verdure, gives to this lake
a savage and arid character. The S.
side consists of more gradually sloping
hills covered with verdure and over-
topped by the tall bare peaks of more
distant mountains. Here there are
several villages, and a very rough and
irregular path runs along it. The lake
has the reputation of being dangerous
to navigate, on account of sudden tem-
pests; but in this respect it does not
differ from other mountain lakes. Jn
Jan. 1851, however, the steamer was
submerged by a squall, and every soul
on board, 14 in all, perished. It was
fished up from a great depth.

The precipices along tne N. bank
vary between 2000 and 3000 feet in
height, and the stranger is usually

surprised to learn that above tliem
are situated populous villages and ex-
tensive pastures crowded with ca,ttle.
Such a one is the village of Amden,
containing 3000 Inhab., nearly 2500
feet above the lake, with a churcli,
gardens, and orchards. It is ap-
proached by one narrow and steep
path, which may be traced sloping'
upwards from Wesen along the face
of the mountain. Several waterfalls
precipitate themselves over this ivall
of rock, or descend, by gashes or rents
in its sides, into the lake; but they
dwindle into insignificance by the end
of summer, and add no beauty to the
scene. The principal ones are the
Beyerbach, 900 feet nigh (above which
lies Amden), and the Seerenbach, 1200
feet high.

The hamlet of St. Quinten is the
only one on this side of the lake.
At the mouths of the streams and
gullies, on the opposite (S.) side there
are numerous villages, such as Terzen
and Quarten, whose names clearly
refer to the ancient military occupa-
tion of this district by the Romans.

The rl^, on quitting Wesen Stat.,
and leavmg rt. the line to Glarus,
twice crosses the Linth Canal, and
is then carried along the S. side of
the Wallenstadt Lake, whose preci-
pitous rock sides are penetrated by 9
tunnels. In the intervals and through
the embrasures, grand views of the
lake. At

Mlihlehom Stat. (Here is a homely
little /nn.) A boat can be hired here.

Murg Stat., at the mouth of a small
valley.

Near this a large cotton-factory
has been built. Behind it rises the
moimtain Miirtschenstock. Its sum-
mit, 7270 feet high, apparently in-
accessible, is traversed through and
through by a cavern, which, thouG;h
of large size, looks from the lake
like the eye of a bodkin. The
hole is best seen when abreast of
the village of Miihlehom; by those
not aware of the fact, it might be
mistaken for a patch of snow. This
peak is said to he a favourite resort
of chamois.

&Bitzerland.

BO0TE 15. — ^ZUBICH TO LUGEBNS.

The K^ extremitj of the lake is
Yx)ixiidedby the 7 picturesque peaks of
theSieben Churfirsten, or Kurfursten.
At theii feet lies

WaOenstadt Stat.— Inns: Aigle d'Or,
near ^elake, tolerable ; Hirsch (Cerf,
or Poste)— a scattered township of
800 Inhab.; nearly ^ m. from the lake,
of which it comixiands no view. The
flats of the Talley around and above it
are marshj, and the neighbourhood
was formerlj yerj unhealthy, so long
as the irr^olarities of the Linth ob-
structed the passage of the waters of
the kke. TVallenstadt is a duU place,
and travellers have no need to stop
here.

[A steep and rugged path by the
side of the Churfirsten, commanding
magnificent yiews, leads over the Hin-
terruckm 6 hrs. to Wil^aus (Rte. 71),
whence Appenzell may be reached in
another day (Bte. 68\l

There is consideraDle beauty in the
scenery of the yaUe^ of the Scez.
There are rich iron-mines, interesting
to Tisit, in the Gonzen Mount above
Seez; their yearly yield is 50,000 cwt.
As the ore is hematite, everything is
reddened that belong to the miners,
even their cats. A good climber will
enjoy a scramble to the top of the
Gonzen, one of the finest panoramic
views of the Bi^ class. A ladder of
50 steps, chained against the face of a
ciif^ hets to be surmounted.

Mels Stat. (7nn; *Krone). The rly.
enters the Talley of the Khine near
Sargans Junct. Stat., some way from
Sargana — (^Inns : Rossli ; Lowe), a
pictoresque old town of 723 Inhab.,
on an eminence surmounted by a
casHe, near the junction of the roads
from St. Gall and Ziirich to Coire.
It stands upon the watershed di-
viding the streams which feed the
Hhine from those which fall into
the lake of WaUenstadt ; and this
natoral embankment is so slight
(about 200 paces across and less than
20 feet high) that, as the deposits
hroaght down by the Bhine are con-
stantly raising its bed, it is not impos-
sible, though scarcely probable, that
the riyer may change its course, re-
linquish its present route by the lake

of Constance, and take a shorter out
b^ the lakes of WaUenstadt and Zv> -
nch. It was calculated by Escher von
der Linth, from actual measurements,
that the waters of tl^ Bhine need rise
but 19^ feet to pass into the lake of
WaUenstadt; and it is, indeed, re-
corded that the river, swollen by long
rains in 1618, was prevented taking
this direction only by the construction
of dams along its banks. Geologists
argue, from the identity of the de-
posits of gravel in the valley of the
Upper Blune with those in the vale
of Scez, that the river actually did
pass out this way at one time. The
rly. from Ziirich by Winterthur, St.
Gall, and Borschach falls in here.

The remainder of this route up the
valley of the Bhine, by

Hagatz Stat (Bte. 66) to

Coire Terminus^ is described in Bte.
66.

ROUTE 15.

ZURICH TO LUCERNE AND THE RIGI,* BY
HOB0EN, ZU6, AND IMMENSEE.

Eng. m. hra. min.
Zurich.
Horgen (pteamer) . . 9 =3 1
Zug (diligence) . . 13* = 3*
Immensee (steamer) , % zb \
Ktlssnacht (diligence). 2i := 30
Lucerne (steamer) . 6 = 30

35 = f 0

The Bly. from Ziirich to Zug and
Lucerne is quicker (Rte. 16.)

This is a verypleasant expedition
in fine weather. The times above given
are those actually occupied, including
stoppages, which are of course consi-
derable. Passengers can book through
from Zurich, and have no trouble with
their luggage, fare 7 fr. 40. The
steamers are so arranged as to meet

* See Map, farther on.

HOUTE 15. — HOilGEN. ZXJG,

Sect.

the diligences, and, what with hills
and stoppages, a tolerable pedestrian
can cross From Horgen to Zug, and
from Immensee to Kiissnacht, as fast
as the diligence. The summit of the
Rigi may be reached bv Immensee
or Arth in 9 or 10 hrs. from ZUrich.
Those bound for this excursion will
do well to leave ZUrich by the first
steamboat in the morning, so as not
to be hurried in the ascent, and to
find rooms at Rigi Kulm Hotel. Those
who neglect this precaution should
use the telegraph to secure rooms.

Horgen {Inns: Meyerhoff, pleasantly
situated; Lowe). Up to this place see
Rte. 14. Passengers are made to walk
nearly ^ m. from the quay to the dili-
gence office : those who mean to hire
a carriage to Zug (12 or 14 fr.) should
send up for one. A brown coal or
lignite is found here; not fit, however,
for steam-boilers. The road immedi-
ately begins to ascend by a series of
zigzags, affording fine views over the
lake; and from a spot called Bocke,
about i m. off the road, a still finer
view is obtained. The ascent occu-
pies full 1^ hr., after which the descent
is at once commenced, the road run-
ning for the most part along the rt.
bank of the Sihl, crossing it at the
village of

Sihlbrilcket by a covered bridge,
which conducts from canton Ziirich
into canton Zug. [A good road leads
1, from Sihbriicke (2j hrs. on foot)
to Egeri and its lake (Rte. 72). The
new watering-place of Schonbrunn
is halfway. Egeri is a thriving town,
from its cotton manufacture and em-
broidery. (Inn: Good but homely
quarters at me Wirthschaft and Brau-
erei.) The Lake of Egeri 2383 ft, is
romantic in scenery. Zug may be
reached from Egeri in 1^ nr. by fol-
lowing the river that issues from the
lake to the paper-mill; then crossing
it and keeping above Allenwinden.j
From the ridge which succeeds, the
Rigi and Filatus mountains are first
seen.

Baar (numerous inns), an extensive
village with a large cotton-mill. [A
path through the forest leads direct to
Schonbrunn.]

Zu{j {Inns: Hirsch (Cerf), goo
Lowe, civility, and well situatet
Couronne ; Bellevue) — capital
canton Zug, in size the smallc
state of the Confederation, has 38*
Inhab., and is prettily situated
the N.E. comer of the lake. It h
an antiquated look, surrounded bv i
old walls, and has a deserted air, wiiic
the rly., which now connects it wit
Zurich and Lucerne, may perhai
remove. Its inhabitants, exclusive]
Roman Catholics, are chiefly occupie
with agricultural pursuits. The ric
crops, vineyards, orchards, and gai
dens, on the borders of the lake, pro
claim a soil not ungrateful to th
cultivator, •

There are some old arnois in th<
Arsenal, and a standard taken a
Arbedo.

The Ch, of St Michael, outside the
town, like many of the churches in
the Roman Catholic cantons, has a
honehouse attached to it, containing
many hundred skulls, each inscribed
with the name of its owner. It is the
custom for the relations of the dead
to cause their skulls to be taken up,
cleaned, labelled with their names
and date of birth and death, and then
placed in the bonehouse ! The church-
yard in which it stands is filled with
quaint gilt crosses by way of monu-
ments, and the graves are planted
with flowers. The Cemetery deserves
a visit; the display of armorial bear-
ings, coats, and crests, even on the
humblest tomb, is remarkable.

At Felsenegg, on the mountain
above the town, a pension has been
built by the proprietor of the Belle-
vue in Zug. It is frequented as a
watering-place; pension 4 to 5 fr.
a day, is reached in 1 J hr. by a good
carnage-road.

JRailway to Lucerne, winding round
the N.E. and N. shores of the Lake
of Zug (Rte. 16).

Passengers for Arth or Immensee,
at the foot of the Rigi, may proceed
either by road or by steamer. Time
for dinner is allowed to those who
have come by diligence from Horgen
before the starting of the steamers,
which touch first at Immensee and

Mzerknd,

ROUTE 15. — ARTH. THE RIGl.

tkn at Arth 3 or 4 times a day (Kte.
IT.)

An excellent road to Arth winds
Toond the base of the Bossberg,
fuQoas for the catastrophe caused by
the Ml of aportion of it (See R. 17.)
Kfivtlie chapel of St. Adrian a small
numnment has been erected on the
spol where the arrow is supposed to
flave fiillen which Henry von Hunen-
herg shot ont of the Austrian lines
into the Swiss camp, before the battle
of Morgarten, bearing the warning
words, "Beware of Morgarten." It
was in consequence of this that the
confederates occupied the position in*
dicated, and it contributed mainhr to
their rictory on that memorable neld.
Morgarten (Rte. 72) lies within this
canton, about 14 m. W. of Zug, on the
l«keofEg«ri.

Arth — Inns : Schwarzer Adler
(Black Eagle), good; Hotel du Rigi—
a nliage of 2129 Inhab., occupies a
charming position on. the lake of Zug,
between the base of the Rigi and the
Bossberg. There is a Capuchin con-
Tent here. In the Treasury of the
Chmik are preserved a richly -worked
cracifix and chalice of silver, which
belonged to Charles the Bold, and
were lefiby him on the field of Grand-
son, besides some gaudy priests* robes.
It is about 3 m. by the road which
^ds along the base of the Rigi to

Irmensee. Inn: H. du Rigi, com-
fortable and moderate. Omnibus to
Knssnacht, by Toll's Chapel, through
the Eohle Gasse.
The Lake of Zug, whose surface is
1^ feet above the sea, is 8 m. long,
*4 «bout f broad. Its banks are low,
<« gently-sloping hills, except on the
S« ride, where the Rigi, rising ab-
Jttptly from the water's edge, presents
* precipices towards it, forming a
*>^ of considerable grandeur, in
J^iyiniction with thePilatus rising be-
bindit The Rufi, or Ross-berg, rising
^the 8.E. comer, is also lofty and
«N); the lake, at its base, is not less

«wn 1200 ft. deep.
J"ora description of the road between

Inunensee and Lucerne see Rte. 17.

ASCENT OF THE lUGl.

The Rigi QRegina Montium is only
a fanciful derivation of the name), a
mountain, or rather group of moun-
tains, rising between the lakes of Zug
and Lucerne, owes its celebrity not to
its height, for it is only 5910 ft. above
the sea, but to its isolated situation,
which converts it into a natural obser-
vatory. It has also the advantage of
being very accessible; no less than 6
mule-paths lead up to the summit, so
that it is daily resorted to in summer
by hundreds of travellers of all coun-
tries and ages, and of both sexes.
The upper part of the mountain is
composed, l&e the Rossbere, of the
brecciated rock called Na^elflue. Ex-
ternally, the entire summit is clothed
with verdant pastures, which support
more than 3000 head of cattle in
summer, and the middle and lower
region are girt round with forests.

Owing to the uncertainty of the at-
mosphere at high elevations, travel-
lers should prepare themselves for
disappointment, since the trouble of
an ascent is often repaid with clouds
and impenetrable mist, instead of a
fine sunrise and extensive prospect.
He is wise, therefore, who, in fine
weather, manages to reach the summit
before the sun goes down — he, at least,
has two chances of a view. It not
unfrequently happens, however, that
the traveller who has commenced the
ascent in sunshine and under a clear
sky is overtaken by clouds and storms
before he reaches the top.

Horses and Guides,

There are 5 principal bridle-paths
to the top of the Rigi :—

a, from Goldau or Arth.

b, from Immensee.

c, from Kiissnacht.

d, from Weggis or Fitznau.

e, from Gersau.
At all these places, and at most

of the villages round the mountain,
horses, guides, and porters may be
procured at prices regulated by tariff.
The charge by tariff /or a horse is
10 fr. to the top (not including toll

42 ROUTE 15. — ASCENT OP THE RIGI PROM GOLDAU. Sect. I,

for road), and 6 to return the same
day; 10 fr. to descend next day
by the same road; with a drink-
money of 1 f r. or 2 fr. a-day to the boy
who leads the horses. A porter, to
carry baggage, 6 fr. and 3 to return.
A horse may be hired for 6 fr. up to
the convent of Maria zum Schnee,
below which is the steepest part of
the ascent. Cliaises a portew may be
procured for ladies who do not like to
ride or walk, and each bearer receives
6 fr. up or 9 fr. up and down. At
Weggis and elsewhere a boy to show
the path, who will carry a light knap-
sack, maybe hired for 1 j[ or 2 fr. In the
height of summer, when the concourse
of visitors is immense, those who are
anxious may send up a telegraphic de-
spatch from Ziirich or Lucerne (charge
1 fr.) to secure beds at the Bigi-kum
inn, and for a frtinc extra, before start-
ting, you may ascertain the number of
the room secured for you. The pedes-
trian, unless he desire to be relieved of
his baggage, has not much need of a
guide, as the paths are most distinctly
marked, and are traversed by so many
persons that he can scarcely miss his
way. To those who ride on horse-
back, the man who leads the horse
will serve as guide.

a. Ascent from Goldau, or Arth, '

hrs. min.
Qoldau, or Arth

Unter Dachli .... 1 0
Maria zum Schnee . . 0 60

Staffel 0 45

Kulm 0 40

Qoldau (Bte. 17) may be reached
from Arth in 20 min. by omnibus. It is
generally preferred as a starting-point,
and all things considered it is the
best, because the ascent from Arth,
before it joins the Goldau track, is
steeper and more difficult for horses.
There is an advantage in ascending
the Rigi from this side, because the
path runs along a deep gully in the
interior of the mountain, the sides of
which protect the traveller from the
afternoon sun (a thing of importance),
and shut out all view until the summit
is reached, where it bursts at once

upon thesight : the other paths ^vind
round the exterior of the mountain.

From Goldau the path strikes at
once from the inn of the Cheval Hlanc
up the side of the mountain; at first
across fields strewn with blocks from
the Rossberg, which, by the force
acquired in their descent down one
side of the valley, were actually car-
ried up the opposite slope.

Near a small public-house, called
Unter Dachli, where the guides usually
stop to give breath to their animals
and a glass of schnaps to themselves^
the path was very steep, but has lately
been improved.

This is a good point for surveyings
the fall of the Rossberg in the vale
of Goldau below. The long train of
rubbish thrown down by that convul-
sion can be traced stretching across
to the lake of Lowertz, which it partly
filled up (see Rte. 17). The steep
footpath from Arth faUs into our road
here. Here begin " the Stations," a
series of 13 rude pictures fastened
upon poles, each representing an
event in our Lord's Passion, which
lead up to the pilgrimage ch. Mary-
of-the-Snow or Kldsterlu At the
chapel of Malchus, containing the
Bearing of the Cross, the path from
Lowertz falls into our route, and soon
afterwards there is a steep path, on
the rt. leading towards the Culm,
but avoiding Maria zum Schnee and
the Stafiel. Pedestrians sometimes go
that way, but the track is ill-marked
and the ground so rough that it is
generally found to take more time
than the regular path.

Maria zum Schnee is a little ch. much
frequented by pilgrims, especiallv on
the 5th of August, on account of the
indulgences granted by the Pope at
the end of the 1,7th century to all ^who
make this pious journey. Adjoining it
is a small hospice, klosterli, inhabited
all the year by 3 or 4 Capuchin bro-
thers, who do the duty of the chiirch,
being deputed by the fraternity at
Arth on this service. The church is
surrounded by a group of inns and pen-
sions, the best of which (the Sonne and
Schwerdt) are sometimes resorted to
by invalids, who repair hither to drink

^zerland. EOUTE 15.— asceht of the mgi from k&ssnacht. 48

9ttt's whey, and might even afford a
liomely loclging' to traTellers benighted
or TQuible to find room in the two inns

en the top of the mountain: the others

ueppblic-houses, chiefly occupied by

plgnmg. A very steep road and a

-rery long half-nour's walking, up

sloping meadowsy brings the tra-

veUer to the inn called Kigi-StaffeL

(See below.)
The ascent from Arth is by a steep

P>di wMch falls into the Goldau path

in about an hour, as above mentioned.

b. Asoent from Immensee,

This track is rather less steep, and

aboot a mile longer, than that from

Arth or Goldaa ; but as it lies in great

part along a projecting ridffe or spur

of the moontain, it is mucn exposed

to the afternoon sun, and therefore

reiT hot Those who have not dined

at the inn at Immensee may find good

bread, milk, butter, &c., at a neat

chalet below the steeper part of the

ascent. About halfway up this joins

the path from Kiissnacht.

c. Ascent from Kiissnacht.

KHssRocht is reached by steamer

fromLaceme, and the ascent requires

3 hrs. to mount, 2^ to descend. A

mole-path, aslong as that from Goldau,

and in some places more steep. A toll

is paid on tlus road for mules. By a

detour of ^ an hour, TeU's Chapel (see

Bte. 17) may be visited in going or

leiiiming. Leaving Kiissnacht and

fttsing on the L the ruins of Gessler's

CwJle (Rte. 17), the path is carried

in ngzags up the steepest part of the

iBoimtain, through forests, and across

*l» pastures called Seeboden. The

Utt of liuceme is in sight almost the

^•^wfeway. The horse-path emerges on

4e brow of the hill infrontoftheStaffel

uniibQt a steep foot-path strikes off

to the L some distance below, and

leads direct to the very top.

d« Ascent from Weggis.

hrs..mlD.
Weggis.
HeiligeDkrentz. ... 1 0

Kaltbad 1 0

8taffel 0 40

Kolm 0 40

It is best to descend from the Rigi
top to Weggis, and there take the
steamer.

Weggis. Inns: Eintracht ^Con-
cordia); Lowe (Lion) — asmallvillaee
on a Uttle ledge at the foot of the
Rigi, on the iSke of the Four Can-
tons, is the spot where those who
approach the Rigi by water, from
Lucerne, land. It supports more than
40 horses, and guides in correspoilding
numbers. The steamer to and from
Lucerne and Fliielen touches here 6
times daily (f hr.). A bad path,
winding round the foot of the Rigi,
connects Weggis with Kiissnacht; but
the chief communication is carried on
by water.

The horse-path up the Rigi from
Weggis is steeper than the three
preceding: 2^ hrs. up; If down. It
strikes up the mountain immediately
opposite the landing-place, and keep-
ing to the rt. winds along the outside
of the mountain, in constant view of
the lake, passing, first, the little chapel
of Heiligcnkreutz (Holy Cross), and
then leading up to a singular natural
arch (called Hochstein, or Felsenthor),
formed by 2 vast detached blocks of
nagelflue (pudding-stone), holding sus-
pended a third, beneath which the path
IS carried. These broken fragments
serve to illustrate the tendency which
this rock has to cleave and split, and
to this cause may be attributed a sin-
gular torrent of mud, which, in the year
1795, descended' from the flank of the
Rigi upon the village of Weggis, de-
stroying 30 houses and burring nearly
60 acres of good land. It advanced
slowly, like a lava-current, taking a
fortnight to reach the lake, so diat
the inhabitants had time to remove
out of its way. It is supposed to
have been produced by springs, or
rain-water, percolating the cracks of
the nagelflue, and converting the
layer of clay, which separates it from
the beds beneath it, into soft mud.
Had there been any great fracturiB in
the nagelflue, it is probable that a
large portion of the mountain would
have given way and slipped down
into the lake, since the strata of the
Rigi slope at a very steep angle.

ROUTE 15. — ^ASCENT OF THE PJGI — KALTBAD.

Sect*

Had this been the case, a catastrophe
similar to that of the Rossberg might
have ensued. As it was, the softened
clay was squeezed out by the weight
of the superincumbent mass of the
mountain, and formed this deluge of
mud, traces of which are still visible
on the side of the mountain.

A little beyond the arch the path
begins to turn to the 1. or N., and tnen,
at the point where the branch-path
diverges to Klosterli, comes to the Cold
Bath (kaltes Bad), where a source
of very pure cold water, 41° Fahr.,
issuing out of the rock, supplies the
bathing establishment of

RiGi Kaltbad, 4727 ft. (3310 ft.
above Lake of Lucerne), a handsome,
well-furnished Botel^ affording every
comfort and accommodation for 140
guests; house well warmed; table-
d'hdte, and good cook; a fine healthy
situation, overlooking the lake, and
sheltered from the N. and W. (break-
fast at 8, dinner at 12, tea at 4, supper
at 8). Keading-room. Baths and
whey. Post to and from Lucerne
daily. Telegraph stat. The season
is from June to the middle of Sep-
tember. The society is chiefly Ger-
man, and good. Walks to the Kan-
zeli, fronting Pilatus (10 min.), and on
to the Rothstock, grand simset view,
1^ hr.; to the Kulm, 1 hr.; to Klos-
terli, f hr.; to the Dossen, 1^ hr. ; to
Rigi Scheideck, 2 hrs.; to the Sta-
lactite Caves on the road to Fitznau,

1 hr.; to Weggis, 1^ hr.; to Arth,

2 hrs.

In the olden time it was the custom
for patients at the Kaltbad to lie down
in the bath with their clothes on, and
afterwards to walk about in the sun
until they dried on the back; but this
method is no longer regarded as
essential to effect a cure. Close to
the cold-bath is a little chapel dedi-
cated to the Virgin, to which pilgrims
repair, and in which mass is daily said
for the shepherds on the Bigi.

The spring is called the Sisters'
Fountain, from a tradition that 3 fair
sisters sought refuge here from the
pursuit of a wicked and tyrannical
Austrian bailiff, and spent the re-

mainder of their days amidst the clei^
of the rocks in the exercise of piet jr.

The path, after leaving the Kaltbst.4
keeps a N.W. direction till it rea,cli.c
the S.W. angle of the mountain, ]e&'%i
ing on the left of the path some pre
jecting spurs, which furnish admirabl
points of view, in some respects supe
rior to that from the summit. Tlie]
turning N.E. across pastures, the pa.tj
reaches the Staffel (see below).

Whatever route may be chosen fo;
the ascent, there can be no doubt tkitL-
the descent should be made to Weg^>
gis. The varied and exquisite vie'Vi'^i
of the Lake of Lucerne and the oppoj
site ranges of Uri and Unterwalden
are often found to leave a more per-
manent impression than the panorama
from the summit.

e. Ascent from Gersau,
(Rte. 18.) 4^ hrs.

Crossing the meadows, and by a cas-
cade of the Broehrlibach, and among-st
huge blocks of fallen rock, the little
inn of Unter Geschwand is reached
(If hr.). After passing the chapel of
St. Joseph, and taking care to keep
to the 1., the baths and hotel are
reached of

Rigi Scheideck, which accommodates
1 50 visitors. Magnificent view, partly
differing from that from the ICulm.
Many pleasant walks. The Scheideck
is 3 hrs. from Gersau, and thence in
1 hr. Maria zum Schnee^ on the Gol-
dau track, is reached.

There are several other patlis up
the Rigi more or less fit for horses;
one of the most interesting is tliat to
Fitznau. From the Staffelhaus this
path diverges 1., passing a waterfall,
behind which is a cavern, the vesti-
bule of which is 100 ft. deep, and it
is said to lead to others penetrating
through the mountain. In Fitznau on
the lake of Lucerne is a neat little
Inn, The daughters of the house
are good singers. Thence by boat in
1 hr. to Buochs. Another way is
from Lowertz (Rte. 17).

Smtzerland.

ROUTE 15. — SUMMIT OP THE RIGI.

Summit of the Rxgi,

M the principal paths converge

and unite in firont of the Staff elhaus,

atokiable inn, cheaper than the Kulm^

perhaps, but kept by the same family.

It is ) uk hour's walk below the Kulm,

and it is a bad plan to stop short of

it, since those who rest here must get

Ttphalf an hour earlier next morning

if thej wish to catch the sunrise from

thetop^

Theiui/m, or culminating point of the
Bigi, is an irre^lar space of ground
of some extent, destitute of trees, but
coTeredwith turf. A few feet from the
top stands the 7nn, a group of large
buildings, afibrding good accommoda-
tion, considering the height, which ex-
ceeds that of the most elevated moun-
tain in Britun, being 5910 ft.'above the
sea lexel, and 4270 ft. above the Lake
of Lucerne. An enormous building
was added in 1857, containing a vast
saUe-a-manger, and many other rooms.
Unfortunately it is so near the top,
and so high, as partially to interfere
with the view. Charges : tea or break-
fest, l^F. fr. ; supper (f hr. after sun-
set), without wine, 4 fr. ; bedroom,
3 fr.; servants, 1 fr. About 20,000
persons are said to visit this hotel in a
year! The arrangements are generally
good, but complaints of inattention
and incivility are sometimes made.
Bis fair to remember that the constant
nessure of a crowd of hungry and
impatient guests must try to the
*ry utmost the patience and activity
irftiie entire household. Travellers not
nfoot should bring cloaks with them,
ts the cold is often intense; and the
Aermometer marking 76° in Lucerne
ttnidday, was 37° on the Rigi at sun-
Mt^aad 31° at sunrise. The house is
'warmed with stoves even in summer.
W»e following notice is hung up in
«»erjr room : — " On avertit MM. les
etiaogers qu'il est defendu de prendre
fes eottvertures de lit pour sortir au
sommet;" a threat which seems more
likely to have suggested than pre-
vented the commission of so comfort-
able an offence. In 1855 the landlord
paid for a piece of ground on which
the new building stands (96 ft. by

55 ft.\ no less than 54,000 fr., or
more than 2000/. to the canton.

During the height of summer,
when travellers are most numerous,
the Kulm inn is crammed to over-
flowing every evening; numbers are
turned away from the doors, and it
is not easy to procure beds, food, or
even attention. In the evening the
guests are collected at a table-ahote
supper; after which most persons are
glaa to repair to rest It takes some
time, however, before the hubbub
of voices and the trampling of feet
subside ; and, not unfreqi^ently, a
few roystering German students pro-
long tneir potations and noise far
into the night. The beds, besides,
are not very inviting to repose; and
are often damp, though of the thou-
sands who annually visit the Rigl
none ever appear to suffer from it.
Whether the inmate have slept or
not, he, together with the whole
household, is roused about an hour
before sunrise by the grating sounds
of a long wooden horn, which is
played until every particle of sleep is
dispelled from the household. Then
commences a general stir and com-
motion, and everybody hastens out
with shivering limbs and half-open
eyes to gaze at the glorious prospect
of a sunrise from the Rigi. Fortu-
nate are they for whom the view is
not marred by clouds and rain, a
very common occurrence, as the leaves
of the Album kept in the inn will
testify. Indeed the follovnng verses
describe the fate of a large majority
of those who make this expedition: —

Nine weary uphill miles we sped.

The setting sun to see-;
Sulky and grim he went to bed,

Sulky and grim went we.

Seven sleepless hours we tossed, and then,

The rising sun to see,
Sulky and grim we rose again,

Sulky and grim rose he.

Long before dawn an assemblage
of between 200 and 300 persons is
often collected on the Rigi Culm,
awaiting the sunrise, to enjoy this
magnificent prospect in the cold. A
glare of light in the E., which gra-
dually dims the flickering of the stars,

ROUTE 15. — SUMMIT OP THE RIGI.

Sect. J

is the first token of the morning;
it soon becomes a streak of gold
along the horizon, and is reflected
in a pale pink tint upon the snows of
the Bernese Alps. Summit after
summit slowly catches the same golden
hue; the dark space between the
horizon and the Bigi is next illumi-
nated ; forests, lakes, hills, rivers, towns
and villages, gradually become re-
vealed, but look cold and indistinct
until the red orb surmounts the moun-
tain top, and darts his beams across
the landscape. The shadows are then
rolled back, as it were, and in a few
moments the whole scene around is
glowing in sunshine. The view is
best seen during the quarter of an
hour preceding and following the
first appearance of the sun; after
that the mists begin to curl up, and
usually shroud parts of it from the eye.
The most striking portion of this
wonderful panorama, which is said to
extend over a circumference of 300
m., is undoubtedly the lakes of Lu-
cerne and Zug; tne branching arms
of the former extend in so many differ-
ent directions as to bewilder one at
first, and both lave the base of the
mountain so closely that the spectator
might fancy himself suspended in the
air above them, as in a balloon, and
think, by one step from the brow of
the precipice, to plunge into . them.
The peculiar greenish blue tint which
sheets of water assume when seen from
a height has also something exceed-
ingly beautiful. Eight other lakes
may be seen from the Bigi, but they
are so small and distant as to <* look
like pools ; some almost lil^e water
spilt upon the earth."

On the N, side the eye looks down
into the lake of Zug, and the streets
of Arth ; at the end of the lake the
town of Zug, and behind it the spire
of the Ch. of Kappel, where Zwingli,
the Reformer, fell in battle. This is
backed by the chain of the Albis, and
liirough gaps in, its ridge may be dis-*
cemed a few of the houses of the town
of Zurich, and two little bits of its
lake. Over the 1 shoulder of the
Bossberg a peep is obtained into the

lake of Egeri, on whose shores tin
Swiss gained the victory of Morg-arten
The N. horizon is bounded hy the
range of the Black Forest hills.

The prospect on the W. is more open
and map-like, and therefore less inte-
resting. Close under the Rigi lie
Tell*s chapel, on the spot where he
shot Gessler, and the village and hay
of Kiissnacht. Farther off, nearljr the
whole canton of Lucerne expands to
view; — ^the Beuss winding through the
midst of it. Above the Beuss is the
lake of Sempach, the scene of another
triumph of Swiss valour. Lucerne,
with its coronet of towers, is distinctly-
seen at the W. end of the lake, and on"
the 1. of it rises the gloomy Pilatus,
cutting the sky with its serrated ridg-e.
The remainder of the W, horizon is
occupied by the chain of the Jura.

On the S. the mass of the Bigi forms
the foreground, and touching the
opposite mountains of Unterwaldeiiy
only allows here and there a small
portion of the lake of Lucerne to be
seen. On this side the objects visible
in succession, from rt. to 1., are the
lakes of Alpnach and Samen, buried
in woods, by the side of which runs
the road to the Brxinig; the mountains
called Stanzer and Buochserhorn, and
behind them 'the magnificent white
chain of the high Alps of Berne, XJn-
terwalden, and Uri, in one unbroken
ridge of peaks and glaciers, including
the Jungfrau, Eiger, Finster Aar-
hom, the Titlis (the highest peak in
XJnterwalden),the Uri Bothstock, and
the Bristenstock, between which and
the Seelisberg runs the road of St.
Gothard.

On the E, the Alpine chain continues
to stretch uninterruptedly along the
horizon, and includes the pre-eminent
peaks of the Dodi, on the borders of
the Orisons, of the Glarnisch, in can-
ton Glams, and of the Sentis, in Ap-
penzell. In the middle distance, abov«
the lake of Lowertz, lies the town of
Schwy tz, the cradle of Swiss freedom,
backed by the two singular sharp
peaks called, from their shape, the
Mitres (Mythen). Above them peerg
the craggy crest of the Glarnisch; and

SimitzerlaTtd.

ROUTE 16. — ZURICH TO LUCERNE.

to the rt. of them is the opening of
tbe lluotta Thai, famous for the
Uoody conflicts between Suwarrow
andM&ssena, where armies manoeuvred
and foQght on spots which before the
shepherd and chamois hunter alone
used to tread, farther to the L rises
the mass of the Rossberg, — the nearest
mountam neighbour of the Kigi. The
whole icene of desolation caused by
its ML (see Rte. 17); the chasm on the
top, whence the ruin came ; the course
ofiJie terrific avalanche of stones, di-
verging and spreading in their descent;
the lake of Lowertz, partly filled up
by it, and the pools ana pudoles caused
in the Tafley by the stoppage of the
waterconrses, are at once displayed
in a bird's-eye view.

The Tery distant bare peak seen
above the top of the Bossberg is the
Sentis.

2Tie Spectre of the Rigi is an atmo-
spheric phenomenon not unfrequently
ofeserved on the tops of high moun-
tains. It occurs when the cloudy
vapours happen to rise perpendicularly
from the vaUey beneath the mountain,
on the side opposite to the sun, with-
out enveloping the summit of the Bigi
itself, Under these circumstances the
shadows of the Kigi Kulm and of any
person standing on the top are cast
lipon the wall of mist in greatly magni-
fied proportions. The shadow is encir-
dedby a halo, assuming the prismatic
ttlonrs of the rainbow, and this
WR&etimes doubled when the mist is
lluek.

Tvo melancholy accidents have
Wttnred on the top of the Rigi: — in
1820 a guide who had attended an
Ini^ish family was struck dead by

S^oing as iie stood watching the
ids: in 1826 a Prussian officer,
*hohii4 reached the summit, accom-
JliW^by his wife and children, fell
nvgra very dangerous seat which he
M aeiected on the brow of a preci-
jhi (die only spot where the summit
18 remy a precipioei), and was dashed
<o pieces at the bottom. According
to another apbount, the miserable
Qaa thnrew himself off, having pre-
tlenifly- nmouiie^ his intention <^
tsoflunitteg^ stddid^ to h^ "vrife; who

summoned the g^de to arrest him«
but, after a severe struggle, her hus-
band got loose, and effected his pur-
pose.

ROUTE 16.

zUbich to lucebne, over the albib,
• or by railway.

The direct Rly. from Zurich to Zug
and Lucerne (4 trains daily in 3 hrs.)
opened 1864.

SUtlons. Eng. m.

Bonstettea

Affoltem

Mettmanshausen .....

Zug

Chaam

Bothkrentz

SIsik'on

Eblkon

Lucerae

In fine weather it is worth while
to take the carriage-road over the
Alhis for the sake of the very beau-
tiful view of the chain of the Alps,
and of a large part of Switzerland,
which is seen from its summit. The
distance is about 38 m.,and the diligence
takes more than 6 hrs. to accomplish
it. The road skirts the shore of the
lake at first, but at Adliswyl, 4} m. it
crosses the river Sihl, and soon after in
numerous zigzags begins to ascend to

4 m. Oher^l^ /nn .* Hirsch, which
afibrds moderate aecommodation and
a magnificent prospect. The besjt
point, however, for seeing the yi^Yf^
is the Signal (Hoohwacht, called q.1so
Schnabel), a height off the road, q,bout
a mile qkbove the inn : it takes In
nearly the whole of the Zurichsee.
At thd foot of the mountain, between
it and. the lake, the tale of the Sihl
inleiTFenes. Its wood6<l/>&lopea were

ROUTE 16. — KAPPEL. LUCERNE.

Seot;. X

the favourite retreat of the pastoral
poet Gessner; they were occupied in
1799 by two hostile armies — that of
the French under Massena, who en-
camped on the slope of the Albis, and
that of the Russians, who occupied
the rt. bank of the Sihl. They
watched each other from hence for
more than 3 months ; until Massena,
by a masterly movement, crossed the
Limmat, cut off part of the Hussian
force, and compelled the rest to a hasty
retreat. On the W. are seen the little
lake of Turl, the bath at Wengi,
near Aengst, and at a distance of
10 miles the beautiful convent of
Muri in Argovie. Not far^from the
lake is the church of Kappel, where
Zwingli died ; farther on the lake
of Zug, and behind it tower the Kigi
and Pilatus mountains, disclosing be-
tween them a little bit of the lake
of Lucerne. The grandest feature,
however, of the view is the snowy
chain of the Alps, from the Sentis to
the Jungfrau, which fills up the hori-
zon. It has been engraved by Keller.

In posting you must take an extra
horse (renfort) either from ZUrich or
Zug up to the summit; 1 post is
charged. The greatest height which
the road attains is 2404 ft. above the
sea, 1000 ft. above Ziirich lake, after
which it descends, passing on the rt.
the little lake of Turl.

The road is carried along the W.
slope of the Albis, from its summit to
Hausen, near which village is 3 m. Albis-
brunn, a large and handsome water^
cure establishment, in which travellers
in general are also received at the
rate of 5 fr. a day, board and lodging.
It is a pleasant residence from the
beauties of its situation, its views of
the Bernese Alps, and the salubrity of
its air and water. It is under the
management of Dr. Brunner.

Beyond Hausen the road passes
1 m. Kappel, a village of 600 Inhab.,
which has obtainea a woful cele-
brity in Swiss history as the spot
where the Confederates, embittered
against each other by religious dis-
cord, dyed their hands in the blood
of one another, and where Zwingli
the reformer fell, Oct. 11th, 1531.
Many of the best and bravest of the

citizens of Ziirich perished on.
day of civil broil. Zwingli, avIio,
in accordance with the custom, of
the time and country, attended liis
flock to the fi^d of battle, to afiPord.
them spiritual aid and consolation^
was struck down in the fight, and
found by a soldier of Unterwaliien,
who did not know him, but -^vlio,
ascertaining that he refused to call on
the Virgin and saints, despatched liim
with his sword. His body, wlien
recognised by his foes, was burnt bjr ;
the common hangman. A momtment^
consisting of a rough massive block of
stone by the road-side, has taken tlie
place of the tree which marked, the
spot where he fell. The Gothic chtircA
of Kappel, anciently attached, to a
convent suppressed soon after the
commencement of the Keformation,
was built in 1280.

In descending from Ober- Albis, Zug \
may be avoided altogether, and the
shorter road by Knonau taken.

The Rlwx). from Zurich (4 trains
daily in 1^ to 2 J hrs.) quits the line
to Olten at Altstetten Junct Stat.,
after crossing the Sihl. Beyond Bon-
stetten Stat, it penetrates a tunnel.
Near Affoltern Stat. 1. lies the Xake of
Tiirl (see above). The stream of the
liOrze, descending from the L«ake of
Egeri, is crossed before reaching

4 J m. Zug Stat, (Rte. 15). Passen-
gers for the Rigl may here take the
steamer to Arth.

The Rlv. to Lucerne skirts the N.
shore of the Lake of Zug, by

Chaam Stat. QTnn : Rabe). At Roth-
kreutz the rlwy. enters the valley of
the Reuss, which is crossed by a long
iron bridge beyond

Ebikon Stat,

Lucerne Terminus on the $, bank
of the Reuss, near the Capellbrueke.

Xuceme (Luzem). Inns : Luzerner
Hof, one of the very best; H. des
SuissesTSchweizerHof); *Englischer
Hof— all good ; views from the win-
dows of both superb; — H. du Rigi,
comfortable, enlarged ; — Schwann, a
really good house and civil people.
These 5 Inns face the lake, and are near
the steamers. Balances (Waage),g;ood;
cheap; en pension, 5 fr. a day; good

KOUTE 16,— I,UCERSE.

imM.2

BOTTTE 16.— LUGEBNK BRIDGES. THE ABSENAL. Sect. I

Tavel wine. As the principal hotels
are sometimes full, it may be useful to
give a list of the second-rate houses,
arranged as far as known in the order
of merit — ^Bossli, Adler, Hirsch, Moh-
ren. Krone, Kienz, Wilder Mann. In
and about Lucerne are jnB,ny Pensions —
Worley's English Boarding-house,
clean and comfortable. Pension Morel,
comfortable; Miiller*s Hotel et Pen-
sion Seeburg, half an hour's walk
from the town, fine views ; Kaufinann's
and Damman's Pensions are also well
spoken of.

Lucerne, chief town of the canton,
lies at the N.W. extremity of the lake
of Lucerne, and is diviaed into two
parts by the riyer Beuss, which here
issues out of it. Its population is about
11,600, all Boman Catholics^ except
about 680 Protestants. Lucerne is
the residence of the Papal Nuncio.

It is not a place of any considerable
trade or manufactures, but their ab-
sence is more than compensated by the
exquisitely beautiful scenery in which
it is situated on the borders of the
finest and most interesting of the Swiss
lakes, between the giants Pilatus and
Bigi, and in sight of the snowy Alps of
Schwytz andEngelberg. The town is
stiU surrounded on the land side by a
long vDoil, with numerous picturesque
tocdich'towerSf erected in 1385 ; but its
chief peculiarity is its bridges. The
lowest, or Mill-bridge^ is hung with
paintings, nearly washed out, of the
Dance of Death : the second or Reuss-
briicke, is the only one imcoyered and
passable for carriages ; the upper, or
KapellbrOcke, a cool and shady walk in
a hot day, runs in a slanting direction
across the mouth of the Beuss, whose
clear and j^Uucid sea-green waters
may here be surveyed to great ad-
vantage, as they rush beneath it with
the swiftness of a mountain torrent
Against the timbers supporting the roof
of this bridge are suspended 77 pictures ;
those seen in crossmg from uie rt. to
the 1. bank represent the life and acts
of St. Leger and St Maurice, Lucerne's
patron saints. The subjects of those
seenin the opposite direction are taken
from Swiss history, and are not with-
out some merit, but, being lighted only

by the glare reflected upwards from
the water, are not easily disting^shed.
Near the middle of the Kapell-briicke,
rising out of the water, stands a yery
picturesque watch-tower, called WasS"
ertkurm, forming a link of the old
fortifications of the town. It is said
to have once served as a light-house
(Lucemd) to boats, and hence some
have derived the present name of
Lucerne. The Hofbruohe^ the longest
of aU the bridges, was entirely re-
moved, 1852 : the intervening space
between it and the shore having been
filled up. The Hotel des Suisses and
Swan and a fine row of houses stand ob
this space, which is also the landing-
place of the steamboats.

In churches and other public build*
ings Lucerne has no very prominent
objects. The church of St. Leger, also
called Hof- or Stiftskirche, is modem,
except the two towers, which date
from 1506. The bells in it are fine.
The adjoining churchyard is filled
with quaint old monuments, and
the view from the cloister windows is
fine.

Post and Telegraph-office^ on the L *
bank of the Beuss, near the Jesuits' ch« '"

The old Arsenal (Zeughaus), neajP
the gate leading to Berne, is one'
of those venerable repositories com-
mon to the chief towns of all the
cantons, in which are deposited the
muskets, artillery, &c., for arming
their contingents of troops. It con-
tains some rusty suits of ancient
armour, and several historical r^cs
and trophies of Swiss valour, such as
the yell6w Austrian banner, and many
pennons of knights and nobles, taken
at the battle of Sempach ; the coat of
maU stripped from tne body of Duke
Leopold of Austria, who fell there :
the iron cravat, lined with sharp spikes^
destined for the neck of Gundoldingen,
the Schultheiss and general of the
men of Lucerne, who <ued in the hour
of victory. Two Turkish flags were
captured at the battle of Lepanto, and
a long Moorish standard was brought
from Tunis, 1640, by a knight of
Malta, who was a native of Lucerne.

Ane'sinQMeDtcollectionof Swiss birds and
quadrupeds, extremely well mounted.

KOUTE 16. — LAKE Of LUCEBME.

ROUTE 16*— LUCERNE* THORWALDSEN's LlOIf. Bect.

has been formed by a Mr. Stauffer,
and is exhibited near to Thorwaldsen's
Lion. It is probably, after that of
Berne, the most complete collection
of the kind to be seen in Switzerland:
charge, 1 fr. each person.

General Pfyffer's model (in relief) of
a part of Switzerland may interest
those who desire to trace on it their
past or future wanderings. It is
placed in a well-lighted room near
the Englischer Hof. 1 fr. adndssion.

The Gothic Fountains, which are to
be observed in all parts of Switzer-
land, are here of singular beauty and
originality.

The English Church service is per-
formed every Sunday in the English
ch. near the Schweitzer Ho£

Muller is a good chemist.

Physician, Dr. Stieger: speaks Eng-
lish, and is attentive to his patients.

At E^lin Brothers, in the Kapel
Strasse, books, prints, panoramas, and
mans relating to Switzerland may be

The most interesting of the sights of
Lucerne is, without doubt, the ^Monu-
ment to the memory of the Svoiss Guards^
who fell while defending the Boyal
Family of France in one of the bloody
massacres of the first French Re-
volution, August 10, 1792. It is
situated in a garden, a little way
beyond St. Leger's ch. on the Ziirich
road. The design is by Thorwaldsen,
executed by Ahom, a sculptor of Con-
stance. It represents a lion of colos-
sal size, wounded to death, with a
spear sticking in his side, yet endea-
vouring in his last gasp to protect
from injury a shield bearing the fleur-
de-lis of the Bourbons, which he holds
in his paws. The figure, hewn out of
the living sandstone rock, is 28 ft.
long and 18 high, and whether as a
tribute to fallen valour, or as a work
of art, of admirable desini and no
mean execution, it merits uie highest
praise. It is the most appropriate
monument in Europe. Beneath it
are carved the names of the officers
who fell in defending the Tuileries,
Aug. 10 and Sept 2 and 3, 1792.
The loyalty and fidelity of this brave
band, who, at the sacrifice of their

own lives, protected Lonis and li
family when deserted by their natui
defenders, almost make us forget th
they were mercenaries. There
a quiet solitude and shade about tl
spot which is particularly pleasii
and refreshing. The rocks aroui
are mantled with fern and creepei
forming a natural framework to tl
monument ; and a streamlet of cle
water, trickling down from the top
the rock, is received into a basi
shaped hollow below it, forming
mirror in which the sculpture is r
fiected. One of the very few survivo
of the Swiss Guard, dressed in its n
uniform, acts as guardian of the me
nument, and cicerone to the strange
The cloth for the altar of the littl
chapel acyoining was embroidere
expressly for it by the late Duches
d'Angom^me.

There are many pretty walks an<
points of view near Lucerne; one of th<
most interesting is to the Lime-tree
under which is a dial pointing to th<
mountains on the horizon ; another i2
the villa called Mlenwinden, perched
on the top of the hill outside the
Weggis gate, from which it may ^
reached in a walk of 15 minut^ oy ^
path winding up the hill outside the
town walls. The GUtchi, close to th(
town, and Gibraltar, both on the S
side of the Beuss, are also pointf
which command a fine prospect

At Krienz, f h. S. W. of Lucerne, ft«
ironworks, and a silk manufacture
The castle of Schaunzee crowns a hil
behind it.

Steamers several times a day t<
Fluelen and the other villages on tlw
lake. (Rte. 18.J From Fluelen dili

fences proceed over the St. Gott
ard. liavellers book from Lucerne
Steamers to Alpnach-Gestad, on tw
way to theBriinig; and to Beckenried
on the way to Engelberg.

Railwaye to -Bcwfo, Berne, Zvg, ««
Zurich,

Excursions.— 'The Rigi summit m*J
be reached in ^J hrs. from Lucernfr-
by steamer to Weggis, J hr. thence li
the summit on foot or on horse.

No one should leave Lucerne wiftj
out exploring the beauties of its M

^*^^. BOUTB 1&— LUCERNE.

«5diet W^ in Gennan Vierwald-
in VM rf *® gnuidest in Europe
ftiSttflS.??"®7' particularly the

deriTedtfT^^"*^ pleasure will be
stands G«*?^ ^veller who under-
»^lh^J,wm take Schiller's

njinyoftL admirable poem so
ejflisir^^esarelocalizei Short
madeh.r^y ^th advant^ be
o/aieU,"^-boat; but the E. end

of Triad/ii^^^^ ^ sudden gusts
Xfiioenijjj^y ** ^ visited from

1 Tho«»i*®.'^»niep, orbyroad.

Jake, igj ^y "itend to traverse the

^^miinetL^* ^ Lucerne, should
nwy be eftJJ^. ^^cpeditions, which
gotofasi^r ^ two days, fAws—
from Goj^ ^ ^^ to Arth and ascend

ttelw^eitieraf- Si*^ embarking on
P^^ the lay oV^^Sgis or Gersau,

c*«M retaking. V ^^» ^*^ V '^®^**
the ^ndeFeningf ^ 'Water to Lucerne

inff and recompense- "^ *^^s most interest-
be eaail/accompXj^ij^ ascent can now
There we 2 goo^ ^^d even by ladies.
(Bfionewlifflde ^/^^ "^ear the top,
il in. from t^^ the highest ridge,

Tfro^^^.'^f^^P.^^S"

*^.^^^'- -Pa-ed??

V^Wi^iaJ%t« Vhich the jealousies

«it4'isaa seem to maintain as a

WZ qtije <ie'''^s from Pifa^iM' sum-

^^ ^ finer than those from the

?"*|^J^y over the Alpine chain.

W^JI^ther 7 summits, exceed-

r!",B^ed and precipitous; but

^Sdnence is accorded to the Wid-

J^ The road to the Brunig passes

Pf Btrgiain/l (Tnn : «Bossli), which is

tttM hj steamer, or row-boat, in

2 km, or carriae;e in 1^ Here horses

mt/liejirocurea. A bridle-path, made

At m expense of 1000/., leads first

ibroa^ orchards and meadows, and

tfaeo ihng the K. side of the moun-

to, k about 4 brs, to the Joch or pol,

MOUNT PILATU8.

6287 ft, connecting the KUmflenhora
with the Oberhaupt. Here is bult
the

ffdtel of the Klmsenhom (2 houses
belonging to the same landlord, with
a chapel attached). Extensive view
from the Klimsenhom, 10 min. walk
from the inn. A well-made zigzag
path leads onwards to the foot of the
Oberhaupt (40 min. walk), where it
stops, for the ridge itself cannot be
climbed over. It is, however, bored
through by a nearly vertical fissure
about 40 ft. deep, called the Krisiloch,
in which a commodious ladder, or
rather rude staircase, is placed. On
surmounting this the traveller emerges
on one of the peaks, from which the
whole range of the Bernese mountains
suddenly burst upon him, having been

Previously concealed by the mountain,
^here are few more striking scenes
in all Switzerland. A descent of 5 min.
by an excellent path leads to the
Belleoue Hotel, 6961 ft., very comfort-
able, a small library of books, built
on the depression between the Ober-
haupt ana the Esel. The view fh)m
the £sel, 10 m. above the hotel, is the
finest of those accessible by paths. A
well-made mule-path leads from the
BeUevue Hotel to Alpnach. It has
'even been used as a char-road.

Unfortunately Filatus is very sub-
ject to clouds, otherwise the mountain
is far more interesting than the Bigi,
and the view from it in some respects
finer, though a less complete pano-
rama, and the grandeur of its own
serrated outline, which forms so im-
portant a feature of the Bigi view, is
of course wanting. The peaks best
seen are the Wetterhom, Viescher-
homer, Ei?er, Monch, and Jungfrau;
the Lake o? Lucerne lies open as far
as Brunnen.

According to a wild tradition of
considerable antiquity, this mountain
derives it& name from Filate, the
wicked governor of Judsea, who,
having been banished to Gaul by Ti-
berius, wandered about among the
mountains, stricken by conscience,
until he ended his miserable existence
by throwing himself into a lake on
the top of the ?Uatus, The mou^r

ROUTE 17. — ^LUCERNE TO SCHWYTZ.

Sect.

tun, in consequence, labours under a
very bad reputation. From its posi-
tion as an outlier, or advanced guard
of the chain of the Alps, it collects
the clouds which float over the plains
from the W. and N. ; and it is re-
marked that almost all the storms
which burst upon the lake of Lu-
cerne gather and brew on its summit.
This ^most perpetual assembling of
clouds was K>ng attributed by the
superstitious to the unquiet spirit
still hovering round the sunken body,
which, when disturbed by any in-
truder, revenged itself by sending
storms, and darkness, and hail on
the surrounding district. So pre-
valent was the belief in this super-
stition, even down to times compara-
tively recent, that the government of
Lucerne forbade the ascent of the
mountain, and the naturalist Conrad
Gessner, in 1555, was obliged to pro-
vide himself with a special order, re-
moving the interdict in his case, to
enable him to carry on his researches
upon the mountain.

According to some, the nanie Hia-
tus is only a corruption of Fileatus
(capped), arising from the cap of
clouds which rarely quits its barren
brow, and which are sometimes seen
rising from it like steam from a'
caldron. The peasants profess to be
able to foretell the weather from the
appearance of the clouds on the top,
and have a saying, —

" Wenn PUatns trSgt seln Hut
B&nn wird das Wetter gut.
Ti%t er aber einen De^n,
So giebt's wohl sicher Begen."

The mountain consists, from its base
to its summit, of nummulite limestone
and sandstone ; the strata incline to
the S., and abound in fossil remains,
especially near the summit, around
the Brtindlis Alp and the Castelen
Alp.

JIOUTE 17.

LUCERNE TO SCHWYTZ — THE FALL
OF THE ROSSBEBO.

Lucerne.
Kflssnacht
Arth .
ScfawytE

Leagues. Eng. m.

2* =
li =

2* =

{See Map.)

A good post-rood to Schwytz. Dili-
gence starts from Kiissnacht ; passen-
gers booked on board the steamers.

Schwy tz may also be reached rather
more quickly by steaming to Brunnen.

The road to Kiissnacht runs nearly
all the way in sight of the lake of
Lucerne, and of the Alps of !Engel-
berg and Berne beyond. On a head-
land at the angle of the green bay of
Kiissnacht, stands the ruined castle of
New Habsburg, destroyed, 1352, by
the Lucerners.

Kiissnacht-^ Inns ; H. duLac ; Hirsch ;
Bossli. The road from Kiissnacht to
Immensee lies through the Hollow
Way, and on the rt. a ruined wall
is pointed out which goes by the
name of Gessler's Castle, The HoUom
Way (Hohle Gasse) is a narrow green
lane, overhung with trees growing
from the high banks on each side.
Here Tell, after escaping from Gess-
ler's boat on the lake of Lucerne, lay
in wait for his enemy, and shot him
as he passed, from behind a tree, with
his unerring arrow. It is somewhat
unlucky that researches into the
archives of ICiissnacht have clearly

SttizerlaruL

BOUTE 17. — FALL OF THE BOSSBEBG.

'ptored that the min called Gessler's
Cvstieneyer belonged to him. The
« Hoflflw Way " has been much filled
vp in making the new road.

On emerging from the Hollow Way
TelCi Chapel is seenby the roadside. By
a ssngnhr anomaly a place of worship,
originally dedicated to ** The Fourteen
H^is in Need** (Our Saviour, the
Tugin, and Apostles), now commemo-
rates a deed of blood, which tradition,
and its supposed connection with the
origin of Swiss liberty, appear to have
sanctified in the eyes of the people, so
that mass is periodically said in it,
while it is kept in constant repair, and
bean <m its oater wall a fresco repre-
senting Gessler's death.

Tmmenaee. Comfortable little Inn.
The road now skirts the lake of Zug
CKte. 15), or the tourist may take the
steamer to Arth ; and 2 m. nirther is

Goldau—Iim : Bossli (Gheval Blanc) ;
good, dvO people.

FALL OF THE BOSSBEBG.

« Mountains have fkUen,
Leaving a gap in the clouds, and with the

shMk
RaeUng their Alpine brethren ; fillinflr np
Tfe ripe green valleys with destnietion's

spUntezs,
Bamming the rivers with a sadden dash,
VMcii emshed the waters into mist, and made
Iheir foontains find another channel — thus,
Ifaia, in its old age, did Moant &oeenberg."

On approaching Goldan the tra-
^idkr may perceive traces of the
dretdfal catastrophe which buried the
ong^nal and much larger village of
Aal name, and inundated the valley
lor a considerable distance with a de-
^e» of stones and rubbish. The moun-
tan wluch caused this calamity still
nBims scarred from top to bottom :
«id noOiing grows upon its barren
mifree; but in the course of years the
Tdlej itself has in many places be-
come neen, and the feXLen rocks bear
treaty Mens, and vegetation, and the
preat amilarity to mountain valleys
m general shows how often in past
agpes neh catastrophes must have
liappcoed, though no record of them
li&s heen preserved*

The Bossberg, or Bnfiberg, is a
mountain 4958 ft. high; the upper
part of it consists of a conglomerate
or pudding-stone, formed of rounded
masses of other rocks cemented to-
gether, and called by the Germans
Nagelflue, or Nail-rock, from the
knobs and protuberances which its
surface presents, resembling nail-
heads. From the nature of the struc-
ture of this kind of rock, it is very
liable to become cracked, and if rain-
water or springs penetrate these fis-
sures they will not fail to dissolve or
moisten the unctuous beds of clay
which separate the nagelflue from the
strata below it, and cause large por-
tions of it to detach themselves n*om
the mass. The strata of the Rossberg
are tilted up from the side of the
lake of Zug, and slope down towards
poldau like the roof of a house. The
slanting direction of the seams which
part the strata is, well seen on the
road from Arth. If, therefore, the
clay which fills these seams be washed
out by rains, or reduced to the state
of a viscous or slimy mud, it is evident
that such portions of the rock as have
been detached from the rest by the
fissures above alluded to, must slip
down, like the masses of snow which
faU from the roof of a house as soon
as the lower side is thawed, or as a
vessel when launched slides down the
inclined plane purposely greased to
hasten its descent. Within the period
of human records destructive land-
slips had repeatedly fallen from the
Eossberg, and a great part of the

Siles of earth, rock, and stones, which
eform the face of the vaUey, derive
their origin from such catastrophes
of ancient date; but the most de-
structive of all appears to have been
the last. The vacant space along the
top of the mountain caused by the
descent of a portion of it, calculated
to have been a league long, 1000 ft.
broad, and 100 ft thick, and a small
fragment at its farther extremity,
which remained when the rest broke
ofiP, are also very apparent, and assist
in tellin? the story. The long and
vnde incuned plane forming the side
of the mountain, now ploughed up

ROUTE 17. — FALL OF THE ROSSBERG.

Sect. I.

and scarified as it were, was pre-
viously covered with fields, woods,
and houses^ Some of the buildings
are still standing within a few yards
of the precipice which marks the line
of the fracture.

The catastrophe is thus described
in the narrative published at the
time by Dr. Zay, of Arth, an eye-
witness:—

" The summer of 1806 had been
very rainy, and on the 1st and 2nd
September it rained incessantly. New
crevices were observed in the flank of
the mountain, a sort of cracking noise
was heard internally, stones started
out of the ground, detached fragments
of rocks rolled down the mountain;
at two o'clock in the afternoon of the
2nd of September, a large rock be-
came loose, and in falling raised a
cloud of black dust. Toward the
lower part of the mountain, the
ground seemed pressed down from
above; and when a stick or a spade
was driven in, it moved of itself. A
man, who had been digging in his
garden, ran away from fright at these
extraordinary appearances ; soon a
fissure, larger than aU the others, was
observed ; insensibly it increased ;
springs of water ceased all at once
to flow; the pine-trees of the forest
absolutely reeled; birds flew away
screaming. A few minutes before
five o'clock the symptoms of some
mighty catastrophe became still
stronger; the whole surface of the
mountain seemed to glide down, but
so slowly as to afPord time to the
inhabitants to go awa^. An old man,
who had often predicted some such
disaster, was quietly smoking his
pipe when told by a young man, run-
ning by, that the mountain was in the
act of falling; he rose and looked
out, but came into his house again,
saying he had time to fill another

Sipe. The young man, continuing to
y, was thrown down several times,
and escaped with difticulty; looking
back, he saw the house carried off all
at once.

" Anodier inhabitant, being alarmed,
took two of his children and ran away
with them, calling to his wife to fol-

low with the third; but she went in
for another, who stiU remained (^M.a-
rianne, aged five) : just then, Fran-
cisca Ulrich, their servant, was cross-
ing the room, with this Marianne,
whom she held by the hand, and sa^'
her mistress; at tnat instant, as Fran-
cisca afterwards said, ' The house ap-
peared to be torn from its foundation
(it was of wood), and spun round and
round like a tetotum; I was some-
times on my head, sometimes on my
feet, in total darkness, and violerrfJy
separated from the child.* When the
motion stopped, she found herself
jammed in on all sides, with her head
downwards, much bruised, and in ex-
treme pain. She supposed she was
buried alive at a great depth ; with
much difficulty she disengaged her
right hand, and wiped the blood from
her eyes. Presently she heard the
faint moans of Marianne, and called
to her by her name ; the child an-
swered that she was on her b&ck
among stones and bushes, which leld
her fast, but that her hands were free,
and that she saw the light, and even
something green. She asked whether
people would not soon come to lake
them out. Erancisca answered ihat
it was the day of judgment, and that
no one was left to help them; but tkat
they would be released by death, and
be happy in heaven. They prayei
together. At last Francisca's eai
was struck by the sound of a bell,
which she knew to be that of Steinen-
berg: then seven o'clock struck in an-
other village, and she began to hope
there were still living beings, and
endeavoured to comfort the child.
The poor little girl was at first cla-
morous for her supper, but her cries
soon became fainter, and at last quite
died away. Francisca, still with her
head downwards, and surrounded with
damp earth, experienced a sense of
cold in her feet almost insupportable.
Aft«r prodigious efforts sne suc-
ceeded m disengaging her legs, and
thinks this saved her life. Many
hours had passed in this situation,
when she again heard the voice of
Marianne, who had been asleep, and
now renewed her lamentations. In

iuitzerland.

BOUTE 17.-*FALL OF THE R06SBEBO.

the mean time the unfortunate iieither,

'wbo,irith much difficulty, had saved

hii^lf and two children, wandered

abooit ^ daylight, when he came

among the ruins to look for the rest

of Ids funOy. He soon discovered

his wife, by a foot which appeared

above ground: she was dead, with a

ehiM in her arms. His cries, and the

noise he made in digging, were heard

by Marianne, who called out. She

was eztrieatcMl with a broken thigh,

and, saying that Francisca was not far

ofl^ a&iiher search led to her release

also; hot in such a state that her life

was despaired of: she was blind for

some days, and remained subject to

convulsive fits of terror. It appeared

that the house, or themselves at least,

had been carried down about 1500

feet from where it stood before.

« In another place, a child two years

old was found unhurt, lying on its

straw matteess upon the mud, without

any vestige of the house from which

lie had been separated. Such a mass

of earth and stones rushed at once into

the lake of X«owertz, although 5 m.

distant, that one end of it was filled

up, and a prodigious wave passing

completely over the island of Schwan-

ao, 70 feet above the usual level of

Ae water, overwhelmed the opposite

shore, and, as it returned, swept away

into the lake many houses with their

inhabitants. The village of Seewen,

aftnsted at the farther end, was inun-

iated, and some houses washed away;

uA. the flood carried live fish into the

'riOage of Steinen. The chapel of Olten,

Volt of wood, was found half a league

fen the place it had previously occu-

fied, and many large blocks of stone

ai^JLttlji changed their position.

*ihe most considerable of the vil-

li^es overwhelmed in the vale of Arth

vas Qoldaii« and its name is now

aftudto the whole melancholy story

and|laoe. I shall relate omy one

aum incident : — ^A party of eleven

tiwfdkrs from Berne, belonging to

the aoit distinguished families there,

arrivsd at Arui on the 2nd of Sep-

temfaer, and set off on foot for the Bigi

a ^nrninutes before the catastrophe.

Serea of them had got about 200

yards a-head, — ^the other four saw
them entering the village of Goldau;
and one of the latter, Mr. R. Jenner,
pointing out to the rest the summit of
the Rossberg (full 4 m. off in a
straight line), where some strange
commotion seemed taking place, which
they themselves (the four behind)
were observing witli a telescope, and
had entered into conversation on the
subject with some strangers just come
up; when, all at once, a flight of
stones, like cannon-balls, traversed
the air above their heads; a cloud of
dust obscured the valley; a frightful
noise was heard. They fledl As
soon as the obscurity was so far dissi-
pated as to make objects discernible,
they sought their friends; but the vil-
lage of Goldau had disappeared under
a heap of stones and ruboish 100 feet
in height, and the whole valley pre-
sented nothing but a perfect chaos!
Of the unfortunate survivors, one lost
a wife to whom he was just married,
one a son, a third the two pupils under
his care : all researches to discover
their remains were, and have ever
since been fruitless. Nothing is left
of Goldau but the bell which hung in
its steeple, and which was found
about a mile off. With the rocks tor-
rents of mud came down, acting as
rollers; but they took a different di-
rection when in the valley, the mud
following the slope of the ground to
wards the lake of Lowertz, while the
rocks, preserving a straight course,
glanced across the valley towards the
Bigi. The rocks above, moving much
faster than those near the ground,
went farther, and ascended even a
great way up the Bigi; its base is co-
vered v^th large blocks carried to an
incredible height, and by which trees
were mowed down, as they might
have been by cannon.

** A long track of ruins, like a scarf,
hangs from the shoulder of the Boss-
berg, in hideous barrenness, over the
rich dress of shaggy woods and green

Pastures, and grows wider and wider
own to the lake of Lowertz and ot
the Bigi, a distance of 4 or 5 m. Its
greatest breadth may be 3 m., and
Uie triangular area of ruins is fully

D 3

BOUTE 17. — ^FALL OF THE fiOSSBERQ.

Sect. ]

equal to that of Paris, taken at the
external boulevards, or about double
the real extent of Uie inhabited city.
I notice, however, that the portion of
the strata at the top of the Kossber^,
which slid down into the valley, is
certainly less than the chaotic accu-
mulation below; and I have no doubt
that a considerable part of it comes
from the soil of the valley itself,
ploughed up and thrown into ridges
Hke the waves of the sea, and hurled
to prodigious distances by the impulse
of the descending mass, plunging upon
it with a force not very inferior to
that of a cannon-balL"

The effects of this terrible convul-
sion were the entire destruction of the
villages Goldau, Bussingen, and Bo-
then, and a part of Lowertz; the rich
pasturages in the valley and on the
slope of the mountain, entirely over-
whelmed by it and ruined, were esti-
mated to be worth 150,000/.; Ill
houses, and more than 200 stables
and chalets, were buried under the
debris of rocks, which of themselves
form hills several hundred feet high.
More than 450 human beines perished
by this catastrophe, and whole herds
of cattle were swept away. Five mi-
nutes sufficed to complete the work of
destruction. The inhabitants of the
neighbouring towns and villages were
first roused by loud and ffrating
sounds like thunder : they looked to-
wards the spot from which it came,
and beheld the valley shrouded in a
cloud of dust ; when it had cleared
away, they found the face of nature
clianged. The houses of Goldau were
litersdly crushed beneath the weight
of superincumbent masses. Lowertz
was overwhelmed by a torrent of mud.

The danger of further calamity
from the faU of other portions of the
mountain is by no means past, even
now. On July 3rd, 1823, a shepherd
boy climbed up to the peak of the
Bossberg, callea Spitzbiihel, to gather
herbs. In crossing over toward Zus
he came to a fissure, which he leaped
across ; but on his return he found it
so much widened, that he could nofc
venture to repeat his jump, and was
obliged to make a circuit to reach

home. By the 6th of July the T&k]
had increased to a width of 40 or 5C
feet, and to the depth of nearly twice
that number of feet. Great appre-
hensions were entertained lest th€
mass thus separated should in falline
take the direction of the Inn ana
Church of Goldau : however, on the
11th, after the crack had widened to
150 ft., with a depth of 120, and a length
of 200, down came the huge fragment;
it was shattered to pieces in its fiiU,
and threw up the waters of the lake
of Lowertz 5 ft., but did no damage.

Those who desire a near view of
the landslip should ascend the Gnyp-
enstock, whose summit may be reached
in 3 hours from Arth.

The church and one of the inns
at Goldau stand on the site of the
village overwhelmed by the Bossberg;
its inhabitants, thus destroyed in the
midst of security, are said to have
been remarkable* for the purity of
their manners and their personal
beauty. The church contains two
tablets of black marble inscribed witii
the names of some of the suflerers,
and with particulars of the sad event
The high-road traverses the talus or
debris, which extends from the top of
the Bossberg far up the Bigi on the
rt. It ascends vast hillocks of rub-
bish, calculated to be 30 feet deep
hereabouts; but near the centre of the.
valley probably 200 feet, and winds
among enormous blocks of stone al-
ready beginning to be moss-grown,
and with herbage springing up be^
tween them. Among these mounds
and masses of rock numerous pools
are enclosed, arising from springs
dammed up by the faUen earth.

LawertZi or Lauerz, standing on the
margin of the lake round which our
road is carried on a terraced embank-
ment, lost its church and several of its
houses in the same catastrophe. The
lake was diminished by one quarter
in consequence of the avalanche of
mud and rubbish which entered it,
and its waters were thrown up in a
wave 70 feet high to the opposite bank,
so as to cover the picturesque island,
and sweep away a small chapel which
stood upon it. The ruined Ccatie of

Siotserland,

B0X7TE 17. — ^LOWERTZ. SCHWTTZ.

Sckmoii, gtin existing npon it, has
a Ustorical interest from haying
Ixsen destrojed at the first rising of
tlieSiriss Confederates in 1308, to
STeoge an outrage committed by the
Seignenr, in carrying off a damsel
•gUBsther will, and detaining her in
coD&MgKnt. ** There is a wild and
Mmbn tradition attached to this
idudjtlutt *once a year cries are
M to come from it, and suddenly
tile ghost of the tyrant is seen to
pwB, duMd by the vengeful spirit of
a pile girl, bearing a torch, and
ilinkmg wildly. At first he eludes
^svi&ess; but at length she gains
"^ imn, and forces him into the
▼here he sinks with doleful
s; and, as the waves close
over ike condemned, the shores ring
with fMrfiil and unearthly yellings.*

[Near the nQage of Lowertz another

footpath strikes up the Rigi, which is

ihorter than goinground by Goldaufor

tiBTellers approaching from Schwytz

or Bnmnen. About 3 m. above Low-

ertiitfiJls into the path from Gol-

dan. (Rte. 15.) The Kigi Kulm may

be reached by it in 3 hours.]

8eevm—{Imi: Zum Kreutz)— a vil-
lage at the E. extremity of the lake,
tt resorted to on account of its chaly-
beate springs. Baths, &c., have been
tttablished here. A direct road to
Bnmnen here turns to the rt. ; it is
Hm. shorter than that by Schwytz,
wis not good.

Sfi»ytz — {Inns: Rossli^ clean and
!*Mnable;— H. Hettinger; Pension
»iti, 10 min. walk, comfortable, and
F*2y situated) — is a mere village,
"Wgh the chief place in the canton —
**« heart's core of Helvetia**— -from
'■A comes the name Switzerland,
•Jieontains 5748 Inhab. (nearly
^Soman Catholics, including the
*y>H>g scattered houses and vil-
^9^ which all belong to one parish.
J*" picturesquely, about 3 m. from
***• (Bte. 18), Its port on the lake
« «fierne, at the foot of the very
^^JipWons double-peaked mountain,
»W Mythen (Mitres), the loftiest
w wkese boms is 5860 feet above the
^»od they flank the summit of the
™ken Pass.

Adjoining the Parish Church, a mo-
dem building, finished in 1774, is a
small Gothic chapel, called Kerker,
erected, according to tradition, at a
time when admission to the church
was denied the people by a ban of ex-
communication from the Pope. It
was built in great haste, half of it
within three days, and the mass was
secretly administered within it.

In the Cemetery of the parish church
is the grave of Aloys ]^eding, the pa-
triotic leader (Landeshauptman) of
the Swiss against the French Repub-
licans, in 1798. *' Cujus nomen summa
laus,** says his epitaph.

The Eat?ihaus, a building of no great
antiquity nor beauty, in which the
Council of the canton holds its sittings,
is decorated with portraits of 43 Lan-
dammans, and a carved ceiling.

The Arsenal contains banners taken
by the Schwytzers at Morgarten, and
others borne by them in the battles of
Laupen, Sempach, Kappel, Morat,
&c. ; also a consecrated standard pre-
sented by Pope Julius IL to the
Schwytzers.

The Archiv (record-office) is a tower
of rough masonry several stories high,
and was probably once a castle: its
walls are remarkably thick, and be-
neath it are dungeons.

Schwytz possesses a Capuchin con-
vent, and a Dominican nunnery, found-
ed in 1287. A Jesuit convent and
Ch., built 1847, on the hill, has never
been occupied.

Model 01 the valley of Muotta, illus-
trating the French and Russian cam-
paign at M. Schindler*s.

Diligences to Lucerne, Zurich, Rich-
terschwyl, Einsiedeln, St. Gall, and
Glarus.

The Schwytzers first became known
in Europe about the year 1200, in a
dispute which the natives of this dis-
trict had with the tenants of the
monks of Einsiedeln. The holy Fa-
thers, concealing from the Emperor
the very existence of such a race as
the men of Schwytz, had obtained
from him a grant of their possessions,
as waste and unoccupied lands. The
Schwytzers, however, were able to
maintain their own property by their

ROUTE 18. — LAKD OF LUCEBN£.

Sect. L

own swords, until at length the Em-
peror Frederick 11. confirmed to them
their rights.

The name Swiss (Schwytzer) was
first given to the inhabitants of the
three Forest cantons after the battle
of Morearten, their earliest victory, in
which the men of Schwytz had taken
the lead, and prominently distin-
guished themselves above the others.

At Ibcich, a village on the Muotta
(through which the road to Brunnen
passes), may be seen the place of as-
semblage where the Cantons-Landes-
Gemeinde — consisting of aU the male
citizens of the canton — formerly met
in the open air to choose their magis-
trates, irom the Landammans down
to the lowest officer. Here they used
to deliberate and vote on the affairs
of the state, decide on peace or war,
form alliances, or despatch embassies
— a singular example of universal
suffrage and the legislation of the
masses. The business was opened by
prayer, and by the whole assembly
kneeling, and taking an oath faithfully
to discharge their legislative duties.
According to the Constitution of 1833,
the General Assemblies of the canton
are now held at Bothenthum, on the
road to Einsiedeln. At present the
meeting of the Circle only is held
here.

ROUTE 18.

THE LAKE OF LUCERNE. LUCEBNE TO

FLUELEN. (See Map, Rte. 16.)

Steamers 5 times a day between
Lucerne and FlUelen (26 Eng. m.^
— to Weggis in J hr. — Beckenried
in IJhr. — Gersau in If hr. — Brunnen,
2 hrs. — Fliielen in 3 hrs. — 3 times a
day to Alpnach ; ditto to Kiissnacht.
Fare — 1st class, 4 fr. 60, to Fliielen.
Return-tickets for 3 days 6 fr. Pas-
sengers for Schwyz and for the St.
Gotthard line are booked on board.

The scale of charges for conveying
carriages, including embarking, is
fixed by tariff in the Indicateur,

Boats may be hired at all the ports
on the lake, and are convenient when
the steamer's time is not suitable. The
charges are fixed by tariff, which may
be seen at the inns, but the men ex-
pect a bonnemain.

Much has been said of the dangers
of the lake of Lucerne, arising from
storms : sudden and tempestuous winds
no doubt do sometimes occur ; but the
boatmen can always foresee the ap*
proach of a storm, and are very care*
lul not to subject themselves to any
risk. The clumsy flat-bottomed boats
are only fit for the dead calm which
generally prevails, and would be use-
less if there was often bad weather ;
yet instances of accidents are hardly
known — either the boatmen will not
stir out, or put into shore, which is
always near, on the slightest appear-
ance of bad weather. Those who
trust themselves on the lake in boats
should implicitly follow the advice of
the boatmen, and not urge them to
venture when disinclined, neither they
nor their boats being fit for bad
weather.

The toinds on the lake are singularly
capricious and variable, blowing at the
same time from opposite quarters of
the comnass in different parts of it,
so that tne boatmen say that there is
a new wind behind every promontory.
The most violent is the S. wind, or Fohn,
which occasionally rushes so furiously

Switzeriand,

BO0TB 18. — LAKV OF LUGEBNB.

down the bay of Uri as to proyent the

progress of any row-boat, and renders

it fifficnlt for eren a steamer to

make lieadway. During fine weather,

in nmmer, the north wind blows

along the bay of Uri from ten to three

or {rar, after which it dies away, and

is BDooeded by the S. wind. The

^xntmeOjin coming from Lucerne, en-

deaTODT to reach f liielen before the

^nod turns.

Tlie Lake of Zuceme, or of the Four
Forai Cantons (Yier-Waldstadter-
See), so caQed from the cantons of
Uri, IJnterwalden, Schwytz, and Lu-
oeme, which exdusiTely form its
shores, is distinguished above every
la^ in Switzerland, and perhaps in
Eunme, by the beauty and sublime
graadeor of ita scenery. It is hardly
less interesting from the historical
lecoUectioDs connected with it. Its
shores are a classic region — the sanc-
toaiy of liberty ; on them took place
those memoraDle events which gave
^^eedom to Switzerland — here the
first Confederacy was formed ; and,
above all, its borders were the scene
of the heroic deeds and signal ven-
geance of William Tell, on which
account they are sometimes called
Tell's Country.

The lake lies at a height of 1406 fb.

above the sea-level : it is of very ir*

r^nlar shape, assuming, near its W.

extremity, the form of a cross. Its

nrioos bays, branching in different

Unctions, are navigatea by separate

fiaei of steamers, and are each named

■fterUie chief town or village situated

onlliem : thus theW. branch is properly

thakke of liuceme ; then come the

hays of Alpnach on the S., Eiissnacht

oaliie N., Buochs, stretching E. and

W. ; and lastly, the bay of Uri, run-

nuf K. and S., entirely enclosed

Wtan. the mountains of that canton*

Quitting Lucerne, the steamboat

flooa arrives abreast of a promontory

on the L, called Meggenhom, close

off whidi ties a small island, the only

one m the lake. A ^*renchman, the

Abbe Seynal, took upon himself to

raiaB vfon it a monument to the

bonder of Swiss liberty ; it consisted

of A wooden obelisk, painted to look

like granite, with Tail's apple and
arrow on the top. This gingerbread
memorial of vamty and bad taate was
luckily destroyed by lightning. Thus
far the shores of tne lake are undu-
lating hills, clothed with verdure, and
dott^ with houses and villas — a snul-
ing scene to which the dark ridge
of Filatus adds a solitary feature of
grandeur. After doubling the cape
of the Meggenhom, the bay of Kiiss-
nacht opens out on the L, that of
Alpnach on the rt., and the traveller
finds himself in the centre of the
cross or transept (so to call it) of the
lake. From this point Mount Pilate
is seen to gre&t advantage — clouds
and darkness almost invariably rest
upon his head, and his serrated ridge
and gloomy sides have a sullen air in
the midst of the sunny and cheerful
landscape around. The superstitions
connected with this mountain are
mentioned in Bte. 16.

Looking up the bay of Eiissnacht
the ruined castle of Neu Habsburg is
seen on the L perched on a cliff ; and,
at the farther extremity of the village
of Eiissnacht, a fort belonging to the
counts of that nunc. The colossal
mass of the Bigi occupies the other
side of the bay. Its sides are girt
with forests, below which runs a
fringe of fields and gardens, dotted
with cottages ; while, above, it is
clothed to its very summit with ver-
dant pastures, feeding a hundred
flocks; — ^an agreeable contrast to his
opposite neighbour Pilate.

After weathering the promontory
of Tanzenburg, a spur or buttress de-
scending from the Bigi, the village of
Weggis appears in sight : it is the
usual port of embarkation for travel-
lers returning from the Bigi, and may
be reached in about an hour from Lu-
cerne. The high precipices opposite
Weggis belong to canton Unterwalden,
but the narrow ledge of meadow at
their base is in canton Lucerne.

Two rocky headlands projecting
from the Bigi on one side, and the
Burgenburg on the other — signifi-
cantly called the Noses (Nasen) — ^now
appear to close up the lake ; but as
the boat advances, a narrow strait^

ROUTE 18. — TiATTW OF LUCEBNE. BRUKNEN.

Sect.1

not more than l^m. wide, is disclosed
between them. Once through these
narrows, and the noses seem to have
overlapped each other, and the tra-
Teller enters, as it were, a new lake
shut out by high mountains from that
which he nas traversed before. This
oval basin is called the Gvif of Buochs,
from the little village at the bottom
of the bay on its S. shore, behind
which rise two grand mountains, the
Buochser and Stanzer-Hom.

Beckenried (Irm : Sonne ; Mond ;
Krone; Adler), a very thriving place,
many houses in construction, was
once the place of assembly of the
council of the 4 cantons. The steamers
here land passengers bound for Buochs
(3 m.) or Stanz (6 m.). Carriages
may be hired here, and there is an
omnibus daily for Lungern and the
Brunig (Rte. 19).

There is a pleasant walk from Beck-
enried to Griitli, by a charming path,
leading in 2^ hrs. by Emetten, ithe
Seelis-see and the village of Seelis-
berg. A splendid view of the lake
from the top of the ascent between
Beckenried and Emetten.

On the opposite shore, at the foot
of the Bigi, nestles the little village
Cfersau — (/n« and Pension: Sonne,
small, but clean) — which, with the
small strip of cultivated and iheadow
land behind it, formed, for four cen-
turies, an independent state, undoubt-
edly the smallest in civilized Europe.

Its entire territory consisted of a
slope leaning against the side of the
mountain, produe-ed probably by the
earth and rubbish washed down from
above, by two mountain - torrents
breaking out of ravines behind it.
The whole extent of land cannot mea-
sure more than 3 n£ by 2, which
would make a very small parish in
England ; scarcely an acre of it is
level ground, but it is covered with
orchards, and supports a population
of 1348 souls, dwelling in 174 houses,
82 of which form the village.

It is recorded that the people of
Gersau bought their freedom from a
state of villenage in 1390, with a sum
of 690 lbs. of pfennings, scraped to-
gether after 10 years of hard toil, to

satisfy the Lords of Moos, citizens <i
Lucerne, whose serfs they had pre*
viously been. They maintained tneii
independence apart from any othei
canton, and governed by a landam-
man and council, chosen from am<m|
themselves, until the French occupie(
Switzerland in 1798, since which thej
have been united vdth the cantoi
Schwytz. Though Gersau possessed
a criminal jurisdiction of its own, to
gether with a gallows still left stand*
ing, no instance of a capital execution
occurred during the whole of its ex-
istence as a separate state.

There is something very pleasing
in the aspect of Gersau on the margin
of its quiet cove, shrouded in orchards
and shut out from the rest of the world
by the precipices of the Bigi; for,
although there is a path hence to
Brunnen, and another to the top of
the mountain, they are difficult and
little used. Its picturesque, broad-
brimmed cottages are scattered among
the fields and chesnut woods nearly
to the summit of the slopes ; some
perched on sloping lawns, so steep that
they seem likely to slip into the lake.
A road has been made from Gersau
along the lake to Brunnen, and a path
leads up the Rigi by the Rigi Schei-
deck Inn (Rte. 15).

The steamer calls off Gersau, which
is reached in IJ hr. from Lucerne.
As soon as it is left behind, the sin-
gular bare peaks of the Mythen
(Mitres) start up into view, — at their
root the town of Schwytz is built, 3 m.
inland, and in ftK)nt of them stands
the village of

Brunnen — (Inns: Golden Adler;
Cheval Blanc; H. d'Angleterre)— the
bustling port of the canton Schwyti,
at the mouth of the river Muotta.
Its position in reference to the sur-
rounding scenery is one of the most
fortunate on the lake, commanding a
view along two of its finest reaches.
Mt.Filatus is well seen from this. The
warehouse, called Sust, bears on its
outer walls a rude painting of the three
Confederates, to commemorate the first
alliance which was formed on this
spot between the Forest Cantons m
1315, after the battle of Morgarten.

«f leyoS^^^^^^faised the standard
iTkosel^vi^ French in 1798.
from thia J°*®°<* to ascend the

""■ I«»B«. /■ * "horter footpath

®**^^i» totf ^'«- ")• The
■•' tmdallr fh ^^•^- of Brunnen,
&*M»(Se ^« ft-ohnalp, IJ hr.
CQrtTWiw, Tie iJs?'**''**^^ magnifi-
^*®"'^7 opposite <5i^?^^lp -P«w«>» is
T»ted Ji^j ^^Usberg; it is ele-

JjQiaen^ for ^«-
anda^. "^ OaU, Einsiedeln,

_, Opposite Bpum^e»* ,. , , ^ r.
-PoarCjotoDschaaw?* **^® ^^® ^^ ^^®
'^^^Mfflfiiditscha.i?^^ at once its di-

a^Ml & It8bordet!»^^^®8 nearly N.
andalmogtmiint^^ ^ire perpendicular,
tJ» bMements atxa*^^ precipices ;
lossal momtams tJ- ^^t^^es^es of co-

those which av^^?^®^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^
*"*nciH!softhel^^*'^^ok the other

fiDminits peer do^^* ^^^ '^®^^ snowy

ebudsjorthroufc^'^ from above the

sidea, upon the 5a i"^® gullies in their

die point of the -^^ S^ below. At

Bronnes, stjQjj^^^xnontory, opposite

Tre&t with a l5^^ small inn, called

[The BmaH ^z^^ haven in front.

stands on the ^^ ^g® ^^ Seelisberg

aboTeTreib; ;^ ^1>^ of the mountain

^dar ^^iiairf ^ ^yond which is the

Smenberg, i \^ (and Curhaus) of

fcomBeckeiijj^' ^rom Treib, 2^ hrs.

«f J fcr. froxi^ o**^^ ^^ * steep climb

ISWfeetaboYft^^^tli- It is about

to oierflowii^^ *^e lake, and is filled

^milkevQ^ during the season.

Bobeigia ben^ Jtioming at 6. Son-

Inov of s^ Tj^^ifrJly situated on the

la^the Oh?\?^^P^*^> immediately

Kiln (3 )ij^^"^uen or Seelisberger

BuOitoek, *^scent), and the Uri

oali»brigvr^ looks directly down

Umronffi Raters of the lake. It

and MHy -n^ y fragrant fir- woods,

One mv c!?**y walks lead from it.

18. — LAKE OF LUOSBNB. Gfith'U.

bere. Pil^o ^ in the lake of Seelis-
ISjSl 11^^^^ fr<^^n *^6 Seelisberger
wattna. k ^^^^^6 for good lady
footu^ ? ^^t xlass. There is a
the k!^ r"*?^ Treib to Fliielen over
^ "^«^taui8 by Seelisberg, Bauen,

Uenthal, and Seedorf.] There is
a similar %nd equally difRcult paUi
from SchwytK to Morsach, Sisikon,
Tellenruth, to Altorf, which was
nevertheless traversed by the French
General Lecourbe, with his army,
in pursuit of Suwarrow, in the
night, by torchlight, in 1799. The
want of boats to transport his forces
across the lake compelled him to this
daring exploit On turning the comer
of the promontory of Treib, a singular
rock, called Wytenstein, rising like an
obelisk out of the water, is passed, and
the Bay of Uri^ in all its stupendous
grandeur, bursts into view.

** It is upon this that the superiority
of the lake of Lucerne to all other
lakes, or, as far as I know, scenes
upon earth, depends. The vast moun-
tains rising on every side and closing
at the end, with their rich clothing of
wood, the sweet soft spots of verdant
pasture scattered at their feet, and
sometimes on their breast, and the
expanse of water, unbroken by islands,
and almost undisturbed by any signs of
living men, make an impression which
it would be foolish to attempt to con-
vey by words." — Sir James Mackin-
tosh,

W. rt., after passing the Wytenstein
about a mile, tne precipices recede a
little, leaving a ledge, formed by earth
fallen from above, and sloping down
to the water's edge. A few walnut
and chesnut trees have here taken
root, and the small space of level
ground is occupied by a meadow con-
spicuous among the surrounding
woods from the brightness of its ver«
dure. This is Grutli or Riitli^ the
spot pointed out by tradition as the
rendezvous of the 3 founders of Swiss
freedom, — Werner Stauffacher, of
Steinen, in Schwytz ; Emi (Arnold)
an der Halden, of Melchthal, in Un-
terwalden ; and Walter Fiirst, of At-
tinghausen, in Uri. These ** honest
conspirators" met in secret in the
dead of night, on this secluded spot,
at the end of the year 1307, to form
the plan for liberating their country
from the oppression of their Austria^
governors. They here " swore to be
faithful to each other, but to do no

BOUTE 18.< — ^LAKE OF LUCERNE. TELL's CHAPEL.

Sect i

wrong to the Connt of Habsbnrg, and
not to maltreat his goven^ors."

** These poor mountaineers, in the
14th cent., furnish, perhaps, the only
example of insurgents wno, at the
moment of revolt, bind themselves as
sacredly to be just and merciful to
their oppressors as to be faithful to
each otner ;" and, we may add, who
carried out their intentions. The
scheme thus concerted was carried
into execution on the following new
year's day ; and such was the origin
of the Swiss Confederation.

According to popular belief, which
everywhere in Switzerland connects
political events with notions of reli-
gion, the oath of the Griitli was fol-
lowed by a miracle, and 3 springs
gushed forth from the spot upon which
the 3 confederates had stood. In token
of this every stranger is conducted to
a little hut Duilt over the 3 sources of
pure water, and is invited to drink
out of them to the memory of the 3
founders of Swiss freedom. It is
doubtful whether the 3 sources are not
merely 1 split into 3 ; but few would
search to detect " the pious fraud."

The view from Griitli is delightful.
A small scar may be observed from
hence on the face of the opposite

Erecipice of the Frohnalpstock, formed
y the fall of a piece of rock. The
fragment which has left such a trifling
blemish was about 1200 ft. wide ;
when it fell it raised such a wave on
the lake as overwhelmed 5 houses of
the village of Sissigen, distant 1 mile,
and 11 of its inhabitants were drowned.
The sweU was felt at Lucerne, more
than 20 miles off.

The immediate shores of the bay
of Uri were, down to 1865, utterly
pathless, since, for the most part.
Its sides are precipices, descending
vertically into the water, without an
inch of foreground between. Here
and there a small sloping ledge inter-
venes, as at Griitli, and on one or
two other spots room has been found
for a scanty group of houses, as
at Sisikon, fiauen, Isleten, &c. The
fttAta, are singularly contorted in
many places.
After the union of Savoy with

France, the Swiss Government, pei
ceiving the necessity, for strategy
reasons, of increased facility of com
munication between the W. and S
cantons, commenced the constructioi
of a high road — ^the Aa:en Strasse^
along the E. clifife of the Bay of Uri
from Brunnen to FlUelen, where i
joins the St. Gotthard, a pleasan
walk of 8 m. It was an arduoui
undertaking, requiring the cutting
or blasting of a shelf in the rock
in the face of precipices, or through
tunnels, for a great part of the way.
It passes the hamlets of Morschadi
and Sisikon, and is carried close to
the little shelf, or platform, at the
foot of the Achsenburg, on the £.
shore of the lake, called the Telle»'
Platte, occupied by Tell's Chapel,
} hr. by boat from Griitli (Tell'g
Platte Hotel !). Here, according to the
tradition. Tell sprang on shore out
of the boat in which Gessler was car-
rying him a prisoner to the dungeon
of Kiissnacht (Rte. 15^, when the
sudden storm on the lake compeUed
him to remove TeU's fetters; in order
to avail himself of his skill as steers-
man : thus affording the captive an
opportunity to escape. The chapd,
an open arcade lined with rude and
faded paintings, representing the
events of the delivery of Switzerland,
was erected by canton Uri in 1388,
only 31 years after Toll's death, and
in the presence of 114 persons who
had known him personally — a strong
testimony to prove that the events of
his life are not a mere romance.
Once a year, on the first Friday after
the Ascension, mass is said and a
sermon preached in the chapel, which
is attended by the inhabitants on the
shores of the lake, who repair hither
in boats, forming an aquatic pro-
cession. There have been fierce dis-
putes as to the existence of Tell, and
a similar story is related as having
occurred in Denmark to one Toko in
the loth cent.

The view from TeU's chapel is ex-
ceedingly fine. The following are
the remarks of Sir James Mackintoaft
on this scene: — *' The combination
of what is grandest in nature, with

Mmland.

EOOTB 19. — PASS OF THE BRUKIQ.

^ibierer is pare and snblime in hu-

meondoct, affected me in this pas-

g|B («loDg the lake) more power-

Wyftan any scene which I had erer

*■. Perhaps neither Greece nor

afflMioold hare had such power

ow ne. They are dead. The pre- .

•eat iiliibitants are a new race, who

"•pwwith little or no feeling the

■JMttls of former ages. This is,

Jy the only place in our globe

|*H» ieds of pure virtue, ancient

•jjy to be yenerable, are conse-

^i»ythe religion of the people,

*J eoDtinue to command interest

•MRwenee. No local superstition

» Hentifiil and so moral anywhere

*»*■ The inhabitants of Tliermo-

ti ? ^tlion know no more of

™«« anions spots than that they are

Jj!»»J«!iitte feet of earth. Eng-

*™ tt tco extensive a country to

^eBmapg^g an object of na-

Jj^Mbon. In countries of in-

®j^«Jdwealth the stream of events

JJ^ «way these old remembrances.

«e mk of the Alps is a sanc-

Bwy destined for the monuments of

^t Tirtne ; Griitli and Tell's

^^ tte as much reverenced by the

jj^nie peasants as Mecca by a devout

«wjeliaan; and the deputies of the

^jent cantons met, so late as the

t?A • ^' ^ renew their allegiance

"«w«r oaths of eternal union."

Jfie depth of the lake, opposite

{«» chapel, is 800 ft. After round-

T« cape on which it stands, Flii-

? appears in view. On the W.

JJrJJf. valley of Isenthal opens

? toininated by the grand snowy

g of the UHJRoihstock on one side,

^^ the centre the vista is closed

■j^jVPand conical peak of the

I<S«A^- ^<^*^^<^*' ^^^ i*8 height,
bu-1 -' '^ oiie of the easiest moun-

tj ^^jtzerland. Those who wish

I^TJW it may take a boat from

it iTs °' ^luelen tolsleten, whence

jT .^ to JsCTjf^a/, at which place

tig .^^^erable accommodation for

ODfiftfA »^®^* morning start with

Iw «Li I^fengers as a guide (5 fr.

^«^ person), and return at night.

FWekn^ the port of the canton Uri,
may be reached by steam in 20 mi-
nutes from Tell's chapeL Herebenna
the carriage-road over the SU Go-
thard. (Rte. 34.)

Omnibus from Altorf to meet the
steamer.

ROUTE 19.

THE PASS OF THE BBiiNia.—- LUCEBNE
TO MEYEmGEK OB BBIENZ.

Lucerne

Stanzstad

Alpnadi Geatad

Sarnen

Lnngem

Meyriugen* or

Bilenz

EDK.m.

{DiUgenoe )
or V. 4«
Steamer 9. 4

Dlllgenoein

Si bra..

In Sibra.

8
10

»
10

A good carriage-road has been
made across the BrUnig: its beauties
are fully equal to those of the former
path. \See Map.)

From Lucerne, steamer to Stanstad
35 min. ; on to Alpnach, 20 min.,
55 min. in all; fare 2 fr. Diligence
from Alpnach over the BrUni^,*to
Brienz, &c. Passengers booked on
board the steamer, or at the post-office.
Lucerne. Leaving Lucerne in the
morning, Brienz is reached in about
10 hrs. by the diligence, in time for
the steamers to Interlaken, and
thence by the rly. on to Berne.

From Lucerne the traveller by
water proceeds through a strait be-
tween the village of Stanzstad on the
1. and the spur of the Pilatus, called
Lopper, on the rt,, into that beautiful

ROXJTE 19. — ^BRIjNIO PASS, ALPNACH.

Sect.

and retired gulf of the lake of the
Four Cantons, called the Lake of Alp-
naoh. The castle of Botzberg, on its
E. shore, is remarkable as the first
stronghold of the Austrians of which
the Swiss confederates gained posses-
sion on New-year's day, 1308. One of
the party, the accepted loyer of a dam-
sel within the castle, being, according
to the practice of Swiss lovers even at
the present time, admitted by a ladder
of ropes to a midnight intenriew with
his mistress, a eirl living within its
walls, succeeded in introducing, in
the same way, 20 of his companions,
who found no difficulty in surprising
and overpowering the garrison. The
loves of J a^eli and Anneli have, from
that day forth, been celebrated in
Swiss song. A series of simultaneous
risings in other parts of the Forest
Cantons proved equally successful,
and in 24 hours the country was freed
from the Austrian rule.

Stanzstad (^Inns: Zum Winkelried;
Bossli) is a small village on the
margin of the lake, immediately op-
posite Winkel, under the Botzberg.
It is distinguished by its tall watch-
tower, 5 centuries old. In 1315, a
litde before the battle of Morgarten,
a vessel laden with Austrian par-
tisans was crushed and swampea by
a millstone hurled from the top of
this tower.

An embankment has been thrown
over the narrow mouth of the Alpnach
arm of the lake, with a bridge (Achen-
brucke) in the centre, which can be
raised to let the steamer pass, between
Stanzstad and the Lopper. Omnibus
daUy, Stanzstad to Beckenried.

Gestady or AJpnach'ani'Gestadf at the
S. end of the bay (1^ hr. frpm Winkel)
(^Inns : BL Pilate; Stem), is the prin-
cipal port for travellers going to or
coming from the Brilnig. A 1 -horse
char to Lungem costs 12 fr. and
drink-money 1 fr.; a 2-hor8e car-
riage 20 fr. and 2 fr. drink-money.

The carriage-road ftt)m Lucerne to
Alpnaoh-am-6estad runs across the
promontory to Winkel on the lake,
thence skirting it to I

Hergiswyl {Inn, Bossli), from whic
the bridle-path ascends the PQatu
to the Klimsenhom hotel (Bte. 16'
It next coasts around the base c
the Lopper, one of the buttresses c
Pilate, to the AchenbrUcke, and con
tinues by the shore of the Alpnac]
Lake to Gestad.

Alpnach {Inns: Schliissel; Sonne]
It is a scattered village of 140(
Inhab. at the foot of the PHatu
(Bte. 17), 1^ mile from the water
side, llie extensive forests whicl
clothe the sides of that mountaii
belong, for the most part, to Alp-
nach, and would be a source oi
wealth to its inhabitants if they could
be got at more easily. It was with
a view of turning to account the fine
timber, that the Slide of Alpnach was
constructed. This was a trough of
wood formed of nearly 30,000 trees,
fastened together lengthwise, 5 or 6 ft
wide at the top, and 3 or 4 ft. deep,
extending from a height of 2500 iC.
down to the water's edge. It was
planned by an engineer from Wurt-
temberg, named Bupp. The course
of this vast inclined plane was in
some places circuitous; it was sap-
ported partly on uprights; and thus
was carried over 3 deep ravines, and,
in two instances, passed underground.
Its average dechvity did not exceed
1 foot in 17, yet this sufficed to dis-
charge a tree 100 ft. long and 4 ft in
diameter, in the short space of 6
minutes, from the upper end of the
trough, where it was launched, into
the Like below, a distance exceedii^
8 Eng. m. The trees were previously
stripped of their branches, barked,
and rudely dressed with the axe.
The bottom of the trough wat
kept constantly wet by a rill ol
water trickling down it, and thereby
diminishing the friction. Professor
Playfair, who has written a mo$ll
interesting account of the slide, sayi^
that the trees shot downwards witk'
a noise like the roar of thunder;
and the rapidity of lightning. Thoughj
the utmost care was taken to re*
move every obstacle, it sometimes
happened that a tree stuck by the

Switzerland.

BOUTE 19. — ^BECKENBIED. STANZ.

my, or, beings arroBted suddenly in

ifeB ^ogress, leaped or bolted out of

ibe trough "with a force capable of

catbng the trees growing at the side

tluit off, and of d^hing the log itself

tottoms. To prevent such accidents,

^nkhmen -wetre stationed at regular

distances along the sides during the

opention of discharging the wood,

and ft line of signals, similar to those

in lae on modem railways, were

established, showing when anything

vott wrong. The timber, when dis-

duffged, was collected on the bike

and floated down the Beuss into

the Bhine, where it was formed

into rafts, and sold in Holland.

N&poleoA had contracted for the

greater nart of the timber, to supply

his docKyards; but the peace of

1815, bv diminishing the demand,

renderea the speculation unprofit-

aUe, and the slide, hayine been

long abandoned, was taken down in

IS19, l^milar slides, nearly as long,

are common throughout the great

forests of the Tyrol and Styria. (See

' Banihookfor South Germany,)

The Ch, of Alpnack, a handsome
modem edifice, with a taper spire,
was built with the timber brought
down by the slide.

In the canton Unterwalden, which
we are about to traverse, by an ancient
law every inhabitant was bound to
foide the stranger who questions him
on his w^ay, without fee or charge.
Ilie road ascends the valley along Uie
left bank of the Aa, about 6 m. to
town.

[Beckenried to the Brunig, Becken-

Hed k a village of 1400 Lahab., beau-

ttfafly situated on the Lake of Lucerne.

^ ooieil is a good and clean' Inn. It

fiimish chars or horses. The

from Fliielen land passen-

at Beckenried and at Buochs.

Hia char or diligence road runs

rouad the bay of Buochs, passing

tkrottgb. the village of Buochs. {Inns:

J&eatz ; Krone) to

Stanz — Inns : Krone (Crown) ;
f2ngel (Angel) -^capital of the lower

division (Nidwalden) of canton Un-
terwalden, contains 1870 Roman Ca-
tholic Inhab. It was in the Rathhaus
of Stanz that the venerable Swiss
worthy Nicolas Von der Flue appeased
the burning dissensions of tne con-
federates, in 1481, by his wise and
soothing counsels. In the existing
building there is a picture represent-
ing him taking leave of his family.
In the market-place is a statue of
Arnold of WinKelried, a native of
Stanz, with the '* sheaf of spears" in
his arms. (See Bte. 4.) His house
is also shown here, now occupied b^ a
family named Kaiser, that of Win-
kelried being extinct. It is a large
ancient farm-house, of which one
portion, including a low archway with
groined entrance and dwarf pillars,
may be as old as the time of Win-
kehied. The field on which it stands
is called in old records "the mea-
dow of Winkelried's children.** On
the outer walls of the bone-house,
attached to the handsome Parish
Churchy is a tablet to the me-
mory of the imfortunate people of
Nidwalden (386 in number, includ-
ing 102 women and 25 children) who
were massacred, in defending their
homes, by the French in September,
1798. In that year this division of
the canton was the only part of
Switzerland which refused the new
constitution tyrannically imposed on
it by the French republic. The an-
cient spirit of Swiss independence,
fanned and excited by the exhort-
ations of the priests (which in this
instance must be termed fanatic, as
all resistance was hopeless and use-
less), stirred up this ill-fated com-
munity to engage an army ten times
greater than any force they could
oppose to it, and consisting of veteran
troops. At a time when the larger
and more powerful cantons had
yielded, almost without a stru^le,
the brave but misguided men of Un-
terwalden and Scnwytz aiforded the
solitary proof that Swiss bravery and
love of freedom were not extinct in
the land of Tell. Their desperate
resistance, however, served only to
inflame the fury of their foes. After

ROUTE 19. — SARNEN.

Sect. I.

a vain attempt made by the French to
starTe the Unterwaldeners into sub-
mission, **on the 3rd of September,
1798, General Schauenburg, the French
commander, directed a general attack
to be made, by means of boats from
Lucerne, as weU as by the Oberland.
Repulsed with great spirit by the
inhabitants, only 2000 strong, the
attack was renewed every day
firom the 3rd to the 9th of Sep-
tember. On this last day, towards
two in the afternoon, new reinforce-
ments having penetrated by the land
side, with neld-pieces, the invaders
forced their way into the very heart
of the country. In their despair the
people rushed on them with very in-
ferior arms. Whole fiunilies perished
together ; no quarter was given on
either side. 18 young women were
found among the dead, side by side
with their fathers and brothers, near
the chapel of Winkelried. 63 persons
who had taken shelter in the church
of Stanz were slaughtered there, with
the priest at the altar. Every house
in the open country, in all 600, was
burnt down ; Stanz itself excepted,
which was saved by the humanity of
a chef de brigade. The inhabitants
who survived this day, wandering in
the moimtains without the means of
subsistence, would have died during
the ensuing winter if they had not re-
ceived timely assistance ffom the other
cantons, from Germany and £n&;land,
and from the French army itself after
its first fury was abated.' — Simmd.

The attack upon Stanzstad was
conducted by General Foy, afterwards
so prominent a leader of the liberal
party in France. That unfortunate
village was totally consumed.

Kerns, a small village 7 m. beyond.
. Stanz, with a tolerable Inn. The
pedestrian may either make a short
cut to Sachselen avoiding Samen, or
may take a boat at Sarnen to the
uj)ner end of the lake of Samen. A
mile and a half beyond Kerns the road
from Beckenried meets the road from
Lucerne at]

Samen, — (Irms : Samer Hof ; Aigle
d'Or, fair.) This viUage, of 3300

Inhab., is the capital of the divi-
sion of the canton called Obwalden,
and the seat of the Government.
It is pleasingly situated at the
extremity of the lake of Samen, at
the foot of an eminence called Z^an-
denberg, residence of the cruel Aus«
trian bailiff of that name who pat out
the eyes of the aged Henry an der
Halden, father of one of the heroes of
of Griitli. The castle which stood on
it was in consequence captured by the
peasants, who entered with arms con-
cealed, on New-year's morning, 1308,
almost without resistance. No vestige
of the castle now remains: the terrace
which occupies its site, and com-
mands a most beautifiil view, has
since 1646 served for the annual con-
vocations of the citizens of the canton,
who meet there to elect their magis-
trates. Adjoining it is the public
shooting-house for rifle-shooting. The
upper half of the village was burnt
some years ago. The lower half is very
old; and there is a bridge across the
river nearly 300 years olc^ constructed,
like many of the Swiss bridges, on the
modem principle of having the arch
above the roaaway.

The SathJuLus, a plain edifice, not
unlike the court-house of an English
county town, contains, in its ''busi-
ness-uke council chambers," portraits
of the landammen from 1381 to 1824.
**The artists have been particularly
successful in delineating tne beards.
There is one picture, however, better
than the rest, of Nicholas von der
Flue, one of the worthies of Switzer-
land, more particularly respected in
this canton, where effigies of him
abound. He enjoys the rare reputa-
tion of a patriot, and at the same
time a peace-maker, having spent his
life in allaying the bitterness and dis-
sensions between his countrymen,
which, at one time, threatened the
destruction of the Helvetian Republic
After an active life, in which * he
acquired a good reputation as a soldier
in the field, and an adviser in council,
at 50 years of age, he retired from
the world into the remote valley
of Melchthal, where he passed bis

SioUzerland,

BOUTE 19. — LAKE OF LUNOERN.

i«

time as a hermit in a humble cell, in

exercises of piety. His reputation,

Vowever, for wisdom as well as virtue,

iTM 80 high that the counsellors of

iihe eonfederac J flocked to him in his

soSitBde to seeK advice, and his sudden

r ranee before the Diet at Stanz
)us conciliating counsels pre-
'vaied the dissolution of the confe-
dencT. After enjoying the respect of
meDOmiig his Ufetime, he was ho-
noondafter his death (1487) as a saint.
TheT&iley of Samen, bounded bv
g?nily slopmg hills, has nothing AI-
pne in its scenei^ ; its character is
qmet, tad pastoral, and pleasing. The
soocessfol experiment of letting off
the waters of the lake of Lungem has
led to a similar project of reducing
that oCSimen, which wiU probably be
carried into effect sooner or later.

[The Storegg and Jauchli passes
from Samen to Engelberg are de-
scribed in £te. 31.]

Tbe road skirting the E. shore of
the lake traverses the pretty village of
Sachsebi (^Irms: Kreutz, good ; En-
gel, comfortable.) Within the Parish
Church, Nicholas von der Flue, the
hermit and saint, is interred. His
bones lie, bnt - do not repose, in a
glass case above the high altar, the
flhntters of which are opened for tra-
idlers, and are also withdrawn at
Mated seasons in order to be exhi-
Mfced to the crowds of pilgrims who
Mpir hither to pay their vows to the
Mini Within fhe ribs, where the heart
^ there is now a jewelled cross, and
Cnnthe breast hang several military
ttdas gained by natives of Unterwal-
dn in military service, but offered up to
Ik Qie of the dead saint, who is known
tofts peasants by the name of Bruder
Una. There is a wooden figure in
tks tassept, clothed with the saint^s
rentable robes. The walls are lined,
^ defotees, vnth votive tablets offered
to the shrine of St Nicholas, record-
tt^aoracles supposed to have been
pot&rmed by him.

The village Gyswyl was half swept
away in 1629 by an inundation of
the torrent Lauibach, which brought

so much rubbish into the valley as
to dam up the waters of the Aa. A
lake, thus created, lasted for 130
years, when it was finally let off
by an artificial canal into the lake of
Samen.

[The summit of the Brienzer BoHh'
horn, celebrated for its view, may be
reached in 6 hours from Gyswyl; the
path, at least for the first 3 hours, is
good ; the* descent into the valley above
borenberg is not so good. ^ hr. from
the top are ruins of an inn burned
down 1847. (See Bte. 25 £.)]

The steep ascent of the KaiserstM
requires to be surmounted before the
road reaches a higher platform in the
valley occupied by the Lake ofLumgem,

This lake was formerly a beantiful
sheet of water, embowered m woods,
and partly enclosed by steep banks.
The dwelfers on its shores, less influ-
enced by admiration of its picturesque-
ness tnan by the prospect of en-
riching themselves in the acquisition
of 500 acres of good land previously
buried under water, tapped it in 1889,
lowering its surface by about 120 feet,
and reducing it by nearly one half

The cost of this enterprise was
about 2000/. and 19,000 days' labour
performed by the peasants.

Lungem (Jnna : Hotel Briinig, good;
Lowe), about 10 m. from Sfunen,
a timber-built village, the last in the
valley, situated at the foot of the
Briinig, and at the S. end of the lake,
now removed by the drainage some
distance from it.

The carriage-road over the Briinig,
leaving the old mule-path 1., ascends
in wdl-constructed ziezag sweeps
through the forest until it reaches the
summit.

[There is a short cut for pedestrians
to Brienz.] From this the ascent of
the Wylerhom (5895 ft) may be made.

The culnunating point of the pass
of the Briinig is 3294 ft. above the sea-
leveL From the summit, near tiie
frontier of canton Berne, a charming
and first-rate view is obtained along

ROUTE 20. — SARNEN TO ENGELBERG.

Sect.L

the entire valley of Nidwalden,
backed by the Pilatus, whh the
Langem See for a foreffroond, form-
ing altogether one of the most deli-
cious scenes in Switzerland. From
the brow, the valley of Hasli, with the
Aar winding through the midst, opens
out to the view of the traveller, backed
by the gigantic and snow-white crests
of the Wetterhom, Eiger, and others
of the Bernese Alps, and in front of
them the Faulhom.

The Brunig Hotel is finely placed
near the top of the Pass.

Close to a small tavern, formerly a
toll-house, irom which there is a nne
view, the road divides : the carriage-
road on the rt. leads to the lake
of Brienz ; the bridle - path L to
Meyringen, seated in the midst of
the rich flat which forms the bottom
of the valley. From the opposite pre-
cipices two or three streaks of white
may be discerned: these are the Falls
of the Beichenbach, the Oltschibach,
and others.

1^ hr. will take the traveller down
to Meyringen (Bte. 25 d) (5J m.) ; 1 hr.
will take him down the steep descent,
» by the new road, to Brienzwyler
bridge on the road from Brienz to
Meyringen, whence it is about 3 m.
over a dull flat road to

Brienz, (Rte. 25£.)

ROUTE 20.

SARNEN TO ENQELBEBO OB MEYBINGEN,
BY THE HELGHTHAL.

Pedestrian travellers, bound from
Lucerne to Meyringen or Engelberg,
may vary their route in an ag^ree-
able way by passii^ through the
MelchthaJ, which opens out to the
E. of Samen (Bte. 19). At its
mouth, close to the chapel of St,
NiklauseUy stands an isolated tower,
one of the most ancient buildings in
the canton, dating from the earliest
Christian times, erected probably as a
belfry. Melchthal was the native place
of Arnold an der Halden, one of
the conspirators of Griitli. (Rte. 18.)
Nearly opposite to St. Niklausen is
the Manft, the site of the hermitage of
the venerable Nicolas von der Fliie
(see Rte. 19). The scenery of the
valley which lies between the range
of the Hochstollen (highest point
8157 ft) and the Lauberstock (8395
ft.) is very agreeable. Countless
chiilets and nay-sheds cover the slopes
on either side.

Three ways lead from the Melchthal
to Engleberg.

(a) Storegg Pass (6709 ft.) turns off
L just beyond the bridge 1 m. from
Ranft and 4 m. from Kerns or Samen.
It is frequented, but difficult to follow ;
a guide should be applied for at tho
cure's of Melchthal, 1 m. farther up
the valley. A steep ascent of 2 hrs.
leads to the Col, where freouently
snow lies in patches. Next a aescent
of i hr. to the Lautersee, a small lake
which lies on the L ; then a descent
of 1 hr. to junction of Jauchli ruad
(see below), and } hr. on to Engelberg.

Suntzerhmd,

EOUTE 22. — ^LUCERNE TO BERNE.

rb3 JawiKli Pass (7136 f^): the turn

is from the end of the char-road, 1 m.

beyond MelchthaL Steep zigzags lead

up grassy slopes in 2 hrs. to the Col,

where there is nsuallj snow. The

^th passes through a narrow gap,

nbere there is deep moss and many

ftofwers. Then a descent of 1 J hr. to

junction of Storegg route, and f hr.

{f^XoEngelberg. (Kte. 31.)

(c) Following the Melchthal, the
Mddisee (6432 ft) near a group of
chalets of the same name is reacned.
The stream that runs from it is lost
in thesround and reappears after an
interrj. A mountain-path leads from
it into the Gentelthal about 1 hr.
beioir Ei^tlen.

ROUTE 22.

LUCERNE TO BERNE [OR THUN], BY
THE ENTIiEBUCH AND THE EMMEN-
THAL, AND LANGNAU (rAIL),

Pott road. 6J posts = 57 Eng. m.
fiaStray, ILiangnau to Berne.
MHgence, Lucerne to Langnau, in
7 or 8 hrs.

Posts. Eng. m.
Sdiacben . . . li = AO
Eacholzmatt . . 2 ss 18

Langnau Stat 10

Benie . . . . li = H

This is tbe best and shortest of the

two carriage-roads to Berne, and may

ttSlhe adopted by pedestrians, or by

tbose who wish to see two of the finest

pastoral valleys in Switzerland. A

riy. is begun. After a short detour

the road enters a narrow vaUey,

and follows the course of the stream

past Krienz, where there are some
iron-works, and then falls into the
valley of the Kleine Umine, which it
follows.

Schachen, a little beyond which the
Free Corps were defeated in 1845 by
the men of Lucerne.

From Schachen there is an old
road oyer the steep Bramegg pass, com-
manding a fine view, and falling into
the mam road at Entlebuch, but by
the main road it takes about 4 hours
from Lucerne to reach the village of

Entlebuch^ at the W. foot of the
Bramegg {Inns : H. du Port, Drei
Konige), prettily situated on a slope,
with the torrents Entle and Emme
roaring beneath it.

The vale of Entlebuch is about 30
m. lon^, and is flanked by mountains
covered with woods and pastures.
The men of the valley are celebrated
as the best wrestlers in Switzerland.
They hold 4 or 5 great wrestling-
matches, called Schwing Feste, be-
tween the months of June and Oct. ;
the chief on the first Sunday in Sept.,
when they try their skill against the
athletes of the neighbouring valleys.
The Bernese highlanders are formid-
able rivals. The Entlebuchers have
been long renowned for their courage
and independence. In 1405 Lucerne
bought this valley from Austria, along
with the feudal rights of the nobles
over it, substituting a Lucerne bailli.

Eschdzmatt (Jnns : Lowe, good ;
Krone) is a scattered village, in a
very high situation, 2690 ft. A little
way beyond it the road quits the
Entlebuch, and descends, by the side
of the Ilfis torrent, into Ibe canton of
Berne.

Near Triibschachen is a handsome
hospital of wood for 100 orphans and
300 paupers.

Langnau {Inns : Cerj^ quiet and good ;
H. zum Emmenthal, clean) is the
principal place in the Emmenthal (Pojp,
6000), an extensive, fertile, and indus-
trious valley, famed for its cheeses
(made on the high pastures near the
tops of the hills, and exported all over

ROUTE 24. — ^LUCERNE TO BERNJE.

Sect. L

Germany), and for its manufactures
of linen. Its meadows are of the
brightest verdure; the cottages neat
ana substantial, with pretty wardens
before them. The Emme, which tra-
verses it, and its tributaries, at times
commit serious devastations, by inun-
dating their banks and overspreading
them with gravel and debris.

Railway from Langnau to Berne, 3
trains daily in 1 1^. The Ilfis is
crossed, and afterwards the Emme,
before" reaching Signau Stat. — CpM: .
Ours, tolerable) — a pretty village,
with a ruined castle above it.

Next follows Zaziwyl, ^onolfingen,
Taeertsche Stats., and Worb Stat., an
industrious village, with a Gothic
castle above it.

Giimling Junct. Stat, is on the rly.
from Berne to Thun (Rte. 25 a).

Berne Terminus (in Bte. 24).

ROUTE 24.

LUCERNE TO BERNE, BT RAILWAY.

This, although involving a long^
detour, is still the quickest mode of
reaching Berne from Lucerne, and
takes about 5 hrs.
Lucerne to Olten. (See Rte. 4.)
Olten to Berne. (See Rte. 5.)
Berne. — Inns: three large houses
near the rlv. and close to the Federal
HaU : Zahringerhof and Schweiz-
erhof, clean, good, and moderate;
Bemerhof, first-class, fine view of the
Alps; ♦H. Bellevue (Oswald), well
managed and quite comfortable; H.de
TEurope, good. In the centre of the
town are the Falke (Faucon), Br. l^fr. ;
tea, do. ; B. 2^ fr.; table-d'hote at 1,
3 fr.; at 5, 4fr.);— H. du Maure(Zam
Mohren), clean, good, and moderate;
H. des Boulangers (Pfistem). The
Abbayes, or houses of the g^ds, such

fWTi

Smtzerland.

ROUTE 24. — BERNE.

as the Distelzwang,* or Abbaye aux

Gentilshommes, and the Abbaye du

^nee, afford comfortable, quiet, and

TDoderate accommodation to travellers.

There are several Pensions, of which

the Pension Jags^ at la Villette is

'well Tecommendea.

The 9Qhts of Berne may be taken in
a walk through the town in the fol-
lowing order : — Starting from the
rlj. Stat.) walk £., and straight down
the pdndpal street (called in consecu-
tive portions of its length Spitalgasse,
Marktgasse, EJamgasse, and Gericht-
igkeitsgasse), along its arcades and
under its dock towers, to the Nydeck
Bridge, and over it to the Bears (1^ m.
from the rly. stat.)« In returning
diverge 200 yards to the 1., to see
the Monster platz (Minster and view),
and again to the Bundes Bathhaus
(Federal Assembly). The Miinster is
halfway between the rly. stat. and the
Bears, and the Bundes Bathhaus is
dose to the stat. Finally, crossing
the Aar, ascend to the Schanzliy the
hest point of view near Berne, and
return by tiie new Botanic Garden
and rly. bridge to the station.

Berne, capital of the largest of the
Swiss cantons (Pop. 467,141; all but
58,319 are Protestants), and, since
1849, permanent seat of the Swiss
Government and Diet,, and residence
of most of the foreign ministers, con-
tains 29,016 Inhab.

Berne is biult on a lofty sandstone
promontory, formed hj the winding
coarse of the Aar, which nearly sur-
rounds it, fiovring at the bottom of a
de«p gully, with steep and in places
preci|itous sides (stalden). The mcon-
venient ascent and descent by which
the town could alone be reached from
the E. formerly, has been remedied
by a krffcy Bridge (Pont de Nydeck),
partly of granite, derived from erratic
blocks lying on the Kirchet hill,
thrown over this gully. It is 900 ft.
long, and the central arch over the
Aitr 150 ft. wide and 93 ft. high.
The dUtant aspect of the town,
planted on this elevated platform,

* Zvwng, a local word for guild: Distel,
tbjatle, tile emblem of the gentlemen who
held their meetings or clnb under this sign.

1700 ft. above the sea, is imposing,
and there is something striking
in its interior, from the houses aU
being built of massive stone. It has
this peculiarity, that almost all the
houses rest upon arcades (Lauben),
which furnish coverefl walks on each
side of the streets, and are lined with
shops and stalls, like '* the Bows " in
the city of Chester. The lowness of
the arches, however, and the solidity
of the buttresses supporting them,
render these colonnades gloomy and
close. The chief street of shops and
business runs through the town, along
the top of the ridge. Overhanging
the Aar, and removed from the main
streets, are the more aristocratic resi-
dences of the exclusive patricians,
which look really like ** gentlemen's
houses."

Bills of water are carried through
the streets to purify them, and they
are abundantly furnished with Foun-
tains, each surmounted by some quaint
eH^y. One of these, the Kinderfres-
ser-irunnen (Ogre*s-fountain), on the
Com-house-square, receives its name
from a figure (probably Saturn) de-
vouring a child, with others stuck in
his girdles and pockets ready for con-
sumption. Some bear the figures of
armed warriors, such as David: an-
other is surmounted by a female
fig^e; but the favourite device is the
Bear. Thus, the upper fountain in
the principal street is surmounted by
a bear in armour, with breast-plate,
thigh-pieces, and helmet, a sword at
his side, and a banner in his paw.
The Schutzen Brunnen is the fig^e of
a Swiss cross-bowman of former days,
attended by a young bear as squire;
and two stone bears, larger than life,
stand as sentinels on either side of the
Morat gate.

Along the line of the principal
street, which extends from the lUy.
Stat, to the Nydeck Bridge over the
Aar, are 2 antique watch-towers and
the Kdficht Thvrm (cage tower), now
used as a prison. The Clock-tower
(Zeitglockenthurm) stands nearly in
the centre of the town, though, when
originally built, in 1191, by Berch-
told y. of Zahringen, it guarded the

74 ROXTTE 24. — BERNE* TOWER. PLATFORM. MINSTER* Sect. I.

outer wall. Its droll clockwork pup-
pets are objects of wonder to an ad-
miring crowd of gaping idlers, A
minute before the hour strikes, first a
wooden cock appears, crows twice, and
flaps his wings; and while a puppet
strikes the hour on a bell, a procession
of bears issues out, and passes in front
of a figure on a throne, who marks
the hour by gaping, reversing an hour-
glass, and by lowering his sceptre.

The great charm of Berne is the
view of the Bernese Alps, which the
town and every eminence in its neigh-
bourhood command in clear weather
From the *MunsterPlatz, alofty terrace,
planted with shady rows of trees,
overlooking the Aar, behind the Min-
ster, six snowy peaks of the great
chain are visible, and from the Enghe
terrace, outside of the town, at least a
dozen rise into view; they appear in
the following order, beginning from
the E.: — 1. Wetterhorn; 2. Schreck-
hom; 3. Finster-Aarhom; 4.Eigher;
5. Monch; 6. Jungfrau; 8. Gletscher-
horn; 9. Mittaghorn; lO.BlumlisAlp;

11. In the middle (Hstance, Kiessen;

12, Stockhom. (See Woodcut.)
There cannot be a more sublime

sight than this view at sunset; espe-
cially at times when, from a peculiar
state of the atmosphere, the slanting
rays are reflected from the Alpine
snows in hues of glowing pink. It is
hardly possible to gaze on these Alps
and glaciers without desiring to explore
their recesses, which enclose some of
the most magnificent scenery in Swit-
zerland. The P?a^orm itself, supported
by a massive wall of masonry, rises
108 ft. above the Aar; yet an inscrip-
tion on the parapet records that a
young student, mounted on a spirited
norse, which had been frightened by
some children, leaped the precipice,
and reached the bottom with no other
hurt than a few broken ribs. The
horse was killed on the spot The
rider became minister of Kerzerz, and
lived to a good old age !

Here is placed a oroiiae Statue of
Berchtold V. of Zdhringen^ fonhder of
Berne, by Tscnarner of Munich.

The *Minstery a fine Gothic building
in the Flamboyant style, was begun in

1421, and finished 1457, from designs
of Matthias v. Steinbach, son of
the builder of Strasburg Minster;
and many of the ornaments, such as
the open parapet running round
the roof, and varying in pattern be-
tween each buttress, are not inferior
in design or execution to those of
Strasburg. The chief ornament is the
great W. portal, bearing sculptured
reliefs of the Last Judgment, flanked
by figures of the wise and foolish Vir-
gins, &C. (date, 1475-85). The inte-
rior is not remarkable; but the Organ
is fine, and is played on daily. In the
windows, and on the roof, are the coats
of arms of the aristocratic burghers
of Berne. 3 tall windows of very fine
painted glass in the choir deserve
notice; (date, end of 15th cnty.),
e,g, the so-called "wafers-window,"
with a symbolical representation of
the Eucharist. The stalls in the choir
(1512) are well carved with figures of
the Apostles on one side, and prophets
on the other. Along the walls are tab-
lets, bearing the names of 18 officers
and 683 soldiers, citizens of Berne,
who fell fighting against the iEVench,
at Grauholz, near Zollikofen, 1798.
There is also a monument erected by
the town, in 1600, to Berchtold of
Zahringen, founder of Berne.

On tne Mtinster Platz, opposite the
W. door of the cathedral, nas been
erected a bronze Monvmsntal Statue of
Rudolph V. Erlach, the conqueror at
Laupen, with 4 bears at the comers.

The Museum contains one of the
best collections of the natural pro-
ductions of Sviritzerland to be fbabd
in the country. It is open to the
public 3 times a week : strangers may
obtain admittance at all times by pay-
ing 1 fr. for 1 to 3 persons.

In the zoological department there
are stuflSed specimens of the bear at
all ages. Two young cubs, about the
size of kittens, respectively 8 and 21
days old — hideous and uncouth mon-
sters— enable one easily to discover
the origin of the vulgar error that the
bear was licked into shape by its
mother. The lynx of the Alps, and
the steinbock, both from the Bernese
chain, are interesting from their nurity ;

BOUTE 24. — BERHE.

■I
I

ROUTE 24.^BERNE. MUSEUM. ANTIQUITIES.

Sect. L

these animals have nearly disappeared
from Europe. Here is deservedly pre-
served the skin of Barry ^ one of the
dogs of St Bernard, who is recorded
to have saved the lives of 15 human
beings by his sagacity. A chamois
with three horns, one growing out of
the nose ; a specimen of a cross breed
between the steinbock and domestic
goat, which lived 7 years; a wild boar,
of gigantic size andoristling mien, are
also worth notice.

In the Ornithological department are
the lammergeyer (vulture of lambs),
the feathered monarch of the Alps,
and inferior in size to the condor alone
among birds. It breeds only on the
highest mountains.

In addition to the native birds of
Switzerland, there are specimens of
severalforeien and tropicalbirds which
have found meir way into Switzerland
by accident ; viz., a flamingo, killed
near the lake of Morat, and a pelican
from Constance.

The geology of Switzerland may
be well studied in the very complete
series of fossils collected by M. Studer
and others. There are a number of
beautiful specimens of all the rarest
and finest minerals from St. Gothard.
The illustration of Swiss Botany is
equally complete.

Several plans in relief of various
parts of Switzerland will prove equally
instructive to the student of geography
and geology.

Antiquities. — O&s. some Boman anti-
quities duff up in Switzerland ; the Frie
Dieu of Charles the Bold, and part of
his tent hangings, captured by the Ber-
nese at Grandson ; the pointed shoes
worn by the Bernese nobles in the
16th century ; some dresses, &c.
from the South Sea Islands, brought
over by Weber, the artist, who ac-
companied the expedition, who was
of Swiss origin.

The Town Library is a good collec-
tion of 40,000 volumes, and is well
stored with Swiss history. Haller,
who was bom at Berne, was librarian.
The butter-mturket is held beneath
this buUdinff.

On the N. side of the town is the

Roman Catholic Church, by the archi-
tects Deperthes of Bheims and Miiller
of Freiburg, of rich Gothic ; lined in-
side with marbles.

The Bundes - Eathhaus or Federal
Council Hall, built 1857, near the
Casino, overlooking the Aar, at the
S.W. corner of the town, by far
the largest and handsomest building
in the town (Studer, architect), in-
cludes aU the departments of the Swiss
Legislature, the Diet, and the various
Pjiblic Offices. The Diet ( Bundes-
versammlung) consists of 2 booies, the
Stande-rath (44 Deputies of the Can-
tons) and National-rath, who meet
generally in July, in 2 separate halls.
The debates are open to the public
At other times the building is shown
by the doorkeeper. In the upper story
is the Picture Gallery, It contains some
good modern paintings by Swiss and
French artists, Robert, Calame, Diday,
Girardet, &c. In front is a marble
fountain^ with statues in bronze of
Bema, the Four Seasons, and 4 swans.
Berne is celebrated for the number
and excellence of its Charitable Insti-
tutions: they are, perhaps, more care-
fully attended to tnan any in Europe.
There is a public granary in case of
scarcity, two orphan-houses, an Infir-
mary, and an extensive Hospital, bear-
ingthe inscription **Christo in pau-
peribus." The new Prison and Peni-
tentiary is an enormous building and
said to be well conducted.

English Church service on Sunday, at
11 and 3^ o'clock, in the chapel of the
Burger SpitaL

Since 1834 a University or high
school has been established at Berne.
The bear forins the armorial badee
of the town, the word •* bem" signify-
ing *'bear" in old German, and he is as
great a favourite here as in the house
of Bradwardine. Not only is his
effiey on sign-posts, fountains, and
buildings, but for several hundred
years living specimens of the favourite
were maintained by the town, until
the French revolutionary army took
possession of Berne, 1798, and the
Dears were led away captives, and
deposited in the Jaroin des Plantes,
where one of them, the celebrated

Mtzerland, route 24. — b£rn£. 25. — ^bebnese obebland.

Martin, soon became the fbTonrite of
the Erench metropolis. But when the
indent order of things was restored at
Berne, one of the first cares of the
(stueos was to replace and provide for
ilieu tmdent pensioners. There is a
foimdajlion for the support of the
^KU8, vIk), after having been reduced
to (me miserable animal, have been
renovated, and have been removed
from die Aarberg Gate to a com-
modious den near the Nydeck bridge.
If 0 tuTcDer will quit Berne vnthout
ptyiogthem a visit, unless he wishes
to hare the omission of so important
<^ sight thrown in his teeth whenever
Berae is mentioned.

The fortifications of the town are
conrerted into Promenades^ and make
^07 agreeable walks. The banks of
^6 Air, seen from them, especially
from the Qrosse Schanze, are most pic-
tnresqne; and the Alps, when *visi-
) form a background of the utmost

^ej, however, as well as the city
^'f Bene itself, are better seen from
a terrace walk called the Enghe,
ihoDt 20 min. walk to the N. from the
%• Stat^ outside the town gate, but
not crossing the river, the fevourite
y^rtofthe citizens. On the way to
iti beyond the gate, is the Shooting"
^1 where rifle matches take place.

^ere is a pleasant walk by a foot-
pth through the Enghe-wald to
Beichenbach (Rte. 5), once the re-
odence of Rudolph von Erlach.

I^e most advantageous point for
'jMianding the panorama of the
preached in ^ hr.'s walk from the
J^ crosaing the magnificent rly.
.""BB (for carriages also), and nass-
Hm Botanic Garden on the rt. Dank
J*^eAar, is the *Schanzli, a prome-
*•« with a large cafe, commanding
J TBy fine view, at the end of the
"^"ttrest the railway bridge.
A^ ^^«WM 4 hr. N. of Berne, near
**• fine and lofty bridge over the
Milan ancient Gallic battle-field,
'■'We hundreds of swords, rings,
^P^heads, &c., have been collected.

*v Casino, a handsome building
^^i* to the Bundes-Rathhaus, con-
^^ a reading-room supplied with

newspapers, a ball-room, &c. There
is also a Theatre in the town.

Booksellers, — Dalp and Co., Bue de
THopital, keep a good supply of
maps, views, and costumes, &c., of
Switzerland. J. B. Dill, artist, has
published Panoramic Views from the
-^ggischhom, Sidelhom, G5mer
Grat, Niesen, and Grimsel. Tra-
vellers about to ascend these moun-
tains will do well to obtain these
excellent clue- views at Berne.

Post-office near (N. of) the rly.
Stat.

History of Berne, — It was founded
in 1191 by Duke Berchthold V. of
Zahringen, and was so called by him
because he had killed a bear on
the spot, and both he and the bear
are still held in gpreat respect. It
joined the Swiss confederation in
1353, having been for many years an
ally. Until 1798 it held Afgau,Vaud,
and other districts, as tributaries, and
is reported to have governed them
tyrannically. The government latterly
fell into the hands of a small number
of aristocratic families, who lost their
power in 1798, partly recovered it in
1814, and lost it again in 1831. A
Yon Erlach led the Svdss to the battle
of Laupen in 1339, and a Von Erlach
led them against the French in 1798.
Until 1848 the Swiss government was
carried on by Berne, Ziirich, and Lu-
cerne alternately, the governing can-
ton for the year bemg called the
Vorort

ROUTE 25.

THE BEBNE8E OBERLAND.

A. BEBNE TO THtJN AND INTERLAKEN.

B. UTTERLAKEN TO LAUTERBRtJNNEN —

Mi^RBSN.

C. LAUTERBRUNNEN TO QRINDELWALD

— WENQERN ALP.

D. QRINDELWALD TO METRINGEN —

GREAT 8CHEIDECK — EAULHORN.

E. MEYRINGEN TO BRIENZ AND THUN —

GIESBACH.

It was in this magnificent highland
district that Byron " repeopled his

78 R. 25.^B£RN£S£ OBERLAKD. A. B£&N£ TO THUN,

Sect L

mind from nature," and gathered
many of the ideas and images which
he has so exquisitely interwoven in
his tragedy of ' Manfred,' the scene of
which ues among the Bernese Alps.

A traveller in the Oberland should
be supplied with plenty of patience
and small change. Nowhere are the
arts of mendicancy better imder-
stood, or more generally practised.
Numerous gates intercept the fre-
quented foot-paths, and at the ap-
proach of a stranger children run out
to open it stretching forth their hands
for alms. Travellers are requested
by the Swiss Government, after an
investigation into local mendicancy,
not to give to beggars.

!• Berne to Thim, — EaiL

One hour by rly., four trains a day.

In fine weather the snowy Alps are
in sight nearly the whole way. The
scenery of the valley of the Aar is very
pleasing; laid out in pasture-lands,
with abundance of villages, and sub-
stantial farm-houses, with broad roofs,
surrounded by neat gardens. The
river itself runs at some distance on
the rt, and is rarely visible. The
rly. crosses the Aar, passing rt. the
Botanic Garden and Schanzli, and at
Wyler separates from the line to
Basle by Herzogenbuchsee (Bte. 5).

Munsingen Stat,

The Stockhomy with its conical peak,
and the Niesen, two limestone moun-
tains, forming, as it were, the advanced
guard of the high Alps, posted on the
opposite side ofthe lake, become con-
spicuous objects. The river Aar is
crossed near Uttigen stat.

Thun Stat,, on L bank of Aar. Pas-
sengers bound for Interlaken, and not
wishing to stop at Thun, proceed 1
m. further (5 min.) to

Soherzlwgen, Terminus on the shore
of the lake, where travellers step on
board the steamer to Neuhaus.

Thvn, Fr. Thmne — Inna: H. de
Bellevue, outside the town — ^well situ-
ated in a garden conunanding a view
ofthe Aar — ^belongs to MM.Knechten-
hofer, who are also proprietors of the

steamboat, rather dear ; — ^H6tel w^
Pension Baumgarten; dean and plea-
sant, in a nice garden; — ^Freyenho^
within the town, very good, frequented
by Swiss officers, and moderate, bat
no dinner is served before the hour of
the table-dlidte; — ^Erone (Couronne);
— Campagne and^Pension Itten, com-
fortable, and moderate charges; bemi-
tiful views.

There is not a more picturesque
town in Switzerland than Thun, 3800
Inhab. ; situated about a mile from
the lake, upon the river Aar, which
here rushes out of it as clear as cirs-
tal. Pre-eminent above the other
buildings rise a venerable chur(^
reached by a staircase from the Bridge
up the hill-sides, and a picturesque
feudal castle of the Counts of Kyburg
(1429). The town enjoys consider-
able trade, and in the lith cent,
reckoned 70 noble families within
its walls. It is a very curious old
town, but contains no particular
ol](ject especially worthy of notice.
It is from its position and its
beautiful environs, one of the most
agreeable places of residence in Swit-
zerland, and, being a starting-plaoe
for those who visit the Bernese high-
lands, it is thronged with a constant
succession of travellers through the
whole summer.

Here is the Military College of the
Swiss Confederation, for educating
officers, and the principal artillery and
cavalry barracks of the country. Re-
views take place every summer in the
vicinity.

The Castle of Schadau is a large and
singular Gothic castle, built (1850) by
M. Bousemont, of Pans, between the
Aar and the lake.

The view from the Churchyard ter'
race " along the lake, with its girdle
of Alps (the Blumlis Alp being the
most conspicuous), fine glaciers, and
rocks wooded to the top, is mentioned
by Byron. A more extensive prospect
is gamed from the grounds of a pretty
country house, called the JacobshUbei,
about i mile above the Hotel Bellevue.
The Jungfrau, Monch, and Eigher
are visible from hence. The Chiarch'
yard of ^schi^ about 3 brs, drive from

Switzerland, boute 25 A. — ^lake of thuk. the niesen.

Than, on the & sidd of the lake, it a
charmiiu^ exoursion, easily made and
wi^oat £it%ue (see Bte. 37).

M. Kneehtenhofer has built a oKapel
for the English seroice in the grouids
o£ ih« BeUeTue.

The ehtiges for yehioles and saddle-
hones ibioughoat the Bernese Ober-
laad hare been fixed by a tariff which
is hung up in the principal inns and
in ike lake ateamers. The Yoituriers
are also bound to produce the tariff
when called upon to do so. The gene-
ral nte is 10 firs, a day for each horse,
but tkds rate is increased or diminished
when the excursion is considered to
be more or less than an ordinary
day's journey.

Lake 9f Than — Thun to Interlaken, —
Steamboatsply between Thun (Scherz-
ligcn)aDd Neuhaus thrice a day to
and ho. The Toyage takes up 1^ hr.
Fare 2 fr. and 1 ic.

The steamer does not take car-

liagesi but a good carriage-road runs

to iJDteriaken (2 posts), along the

& shore of the lake. The distance,

about 15 Bug. m.

It is a pleasant walk along the N.
side of the lake. After Merlingen, the
path rises high ; it is easy to miss it
in the woods.

The lake is about 10 m. long.; 1775
ft above the level of the sea.

The banks of the lake near Thun are
occupied "vrith neat villas and cheer-
ful gardens ; farther on, its N. shore
is precipitous. Among its scanty vil-
lages and hanJets, the most important
is Oberhofen, distinguished by the
aqpBte tower of its castle. It was the
prmecty of the late Count Pourtales.
l%e 8. shore is more striking. Here
tha two remarkable mountams, the
Stodtium, with a sharp peak pro-
jttfiag Ij^e a horn, or thorn, and the
iTBMindal mass of the Niesen^ with its
Goaieal top and white Inn, stand sen-
tiads at &B entrance of the Kander
and flomenthaL The river Kander,
oondiietedinto the lake b^ an artificial
elMBAd formed for it m 1714, has
depoQted around its mouth, within
less Ihtti a century and a half, a delta
or sand-bank of several hundred acres.
The progress and eidient of this recent

formation, so interesting to geologists,
have been ably invesSgated by Sir
C. Lvell.

^Ascent of the Niesen. An interesting
excursion may be made from Thun to
the summit oi the Niesen, which, from
its position, oonuuands one of the finest
panoramic views of the Bernese Alps.
A carriage-road of 7 m. conducts from
Thun across the entrance of the Sim*
menthal to Wimmis, at the foot of
the mountain. (Diligence to Brod-
husi, li m. short of Wimmis.) The
ascent from Wimmis to the summit
will take about 4^ hrs.; the descent
3 hrs. The charge for a horse from
Wimmis to the summit and down
again on the same day is 15 fr. At' 5
min. walk from the summit is a
wooden hotel, making up 24 beds.
It may be reconunended for its clean-
liness, though not for its cookery.

The Ttear view from the summit
(7763 Eng. ft) embraces the snowy
moimtains of the Oberland from the
Altels and Rinderhom on the W. to
the Wetterhom on the E. — ^the finest
object being the Bliimlis Alp, and the
range extending from thence to the
Jungfrau. The more distant view
comprises the summit of Mont Blanc
and the Dent du Midi; Monte Bosa
and -the Matterhom are either par-
tially or totally hidden behind the
Seaks of the Oberland. Directly
ownwards the eye rests on the two
lakes of Thun and Brienz, on the
town of Thun, and the villages of
Brienz and Interlaken. A panoramic
view has been published by DUl, and
is himg up in tne inn.]

S. Spietz, At the foot of the Niesen, .
on a projecting tongue of land, stands
the picturesque qastle, founded, accord-
ing to tradition, by AttUa (?), and
belonging to the family of Erlach. At
Spietzwyler there is a neat Inn,

N. When about two-thirds over the
lake, a projecting promontory of pre-
cipitous rock, called the Nase, is
passed, and a fine view is obtained of
the Eigher and Monch, which fill up
the extremity of the lake with the
white mass of their snow. To the
rt. of them appears the Jungfrau.

In front of the Nase the lake Is

ROUTE 26 A. — ASCENT OF THE NIESEN.

Sect. I.

720 ft deep. N. Behind the village
Merligen runs the Jtistis Thai: at a
distance of between 2 and 2^ h. walk
up it, in the cliffs forming its W.
boundary, is a cave called Schafloch^
which in the height of summer always
contains ice. Such ice wells are not
uncommon in the Jura, and in other
parts of the world. For as air when
it is cold is denser than when it is
warm, all depths that do not admit of
ventilation become receptacles of the
coldest air. It subsides into them, and,
once there, cannot be displaced. This
cave has 2 branches ; that in which the
ice occurs runs straight from the en-
trance for about 60 ft., when it suddenly
narrows, and dips down 12 or 15 ft.;
near the extremity is a gulf filled
with water. Lights must be taken.

N. Farther on, in the face of the
mountain overhanging the lake, is the
Cave of St, Beatus, above a small cas-
cade, which may be seen leaping into
the lake. St. Beatus, according to tra-
dition a native of Britain, converted
the inhabitants of this part of Helvetia
to Christianity. Being minded to take
up his residence on the shores of
the lake, he fixed his eyes upon a
grot well suited to a hermit's abode,
which happened at the time to be
occupied by a dragon. The monster,
however, was easily ejected without
force, and simply by hearing a notice
to quit addressed to him by St. Beatus.
The anchorite was in the habit of
crossing the lake on his cloak, which,
when spread out on the water, served
him instead of a boat. A rivulet issues
out of the cave, and is subject to
. sudden rises, which fill the cavern to
the roof, and are accompanied by a
loud report, like that of a cannon. It
may be reached in a quarter of an
hour from the shore.

At Neuhaus a group of houses and
cabarets at the end of tne lake, about 10
m. from Thun, and about 2} m. from
Interlaken, the passengers are landed.
There is a booking-office here for
taking through tickets in all directions.
A long array of carriages, porters,
guides, and horses, wiu be found
awaiting their disembarkation : also a
diligence which runs to Interlaken in

} hr., fare 1 fr. One-horse char, 2 fir. ;
two-horse, 3 fr. Those bound to
Grindelwald by the carriage-road,
would take their char or carriage
from here.

An Omnibus conveys passengers to
the steamer on the lake of Brienz.

Unterseen, a village of 1000 Inhalx,
composed (except the Castle on tiie
market-place, and Bathhaus) of wooden
houses, many of them brown from age^
being two centuries old. It suffered
from an inundation Aug. 1851, which
swept away its bridge and some of its
houses, and the landlord of H. des
Alpes was drowned at the same
time.

It is situated about half way be-
tween the lakes of Thun and Brienz,
whence its name, and that of its im-
mediate neighbour, Interlaken,' both
signifying ** between thje lakes." In-
terlaken has of late become so com-
pletely a fashionable watering^-placse,
that those who wish for quiet and
economy resort to the pensions here,
of which there are several. The Ifotel
and Pension Beausite (4 fr. 25 c a-daj)
is very well spoken of.

The manufactory ofParqiietfioorings
of MM. Seller is worth a visit.-

*♦* Travellers having made up
their minds at which house they will
put up, in Interlaken, should insist
on being driven to it, and not be de-
terred by being told that "it is full"
— a common trick with persons inte-
rested in other houses. .

Interlaken^ Inns : H. Victoria,
splendid, huge house, and comfort-
able, very good ; H. Belvedere, good ;
Schweizer Hof ; H. d*Interlaken ; H.
and Pension des Alpes ; H. du Lac,
on the Lake of Brienz; H. Beau Site ;
H. Kitschard, large, good, chiefly
German ; H. and Pension Jungfrau-
Blick, a little way out of the town, large
and well situated ; but deficient in
cleanliness. There are at least a dozen
pensions or boarding-houses here^
where travellers are received for one
day, paying as at an hotel, or for
a stay of 5 or even 3 days en pen-
sion, at lower charges, varymg between
5 and 6 fr. a-day, exclusive of
wine, for boarding and lodging. The

Switzeriajid.

ROUTE 26 A, — INTERLAKEN.

principal pensions are Strube's; — ^the
Casino am>rds as g^ood accommoda-
tion as any in the place; — Cam-
pagne Felsenegg, near the Brienz
Toad. At most of these houses there
is a daSj table-d'hote, and during the
aeascm mils are now and then g^^en
at one or other. Pension Ober, very
comfortable.

In 1859 a Kursaal, designed after
the &shion of those at the German
Baths, wi^ restaurant, reading-rooms,
a ban and concert room, play-tables,
ftc^ was opened by some of the inn-
keepers for their benefit. Fortu-
nately the Bernese government has
interdicted the hazard-tables, which
the managers desired to introduce.

Iiiterh£en has few sights or lions
for the tourist or passin? traveller,
who need not stop here, unless he re-
quire to rest himself. Its beautiful
position, however, on a little plain
between the lakes, in fuU view of the
JuDgGraUy whose snowy summit is
seen through a gap in the minor chain
of Alps, its vicinity to numerous in-
terestmg sites, ana some of the most
pleasing excursions in Switzerland,
together with its cheapness as a place
of residence, have spread its reputa-
tion through Europe, and have con-
verted it into a sort of watering-
place, thronged with English, German,
American, and other foreign visitors.
The viBf^e itself, a collection of white-
wishedlodging-houfies, with trim green
bfinds, has nothing Swiss in its cha-
lacler. StUl, however, though no longer
a ]^bhee of retirement, Interlaken must
not he disparaged; its almost endless
waQa and rides, its boating parties on
tht two lakes, its picnics and balls,
wodd, in the society of friends, afford
aaraKment for a season. In front of
the lodging-houses runs a magnifi-
oent JtoMid of huge Walnut-trees, most
imitog from its cool shade.

Satmhns. (a) The wooded slopes of

the Marder, a hiU on the opposite bank

of flu Aar, are rendered accessible by

easypaOs, commanding a delightful

viefw. Keep to the paths, and beware

of tiie slippery ana really dangerous

grass along the ridge : an English

htdy perished here in 1850. (6) The

Rugen, distance about 2 m., commands
a very beautiful riew. Walks and
drives have been cut through the ad-
joining woods, (c) The old Castle of Uh"
^ounnen is within an easy walk even for
ladies; while (d) the ^Giessbach falls,
(«) Lauterbrunnen, with the Staubbach,
and (/) Grindelwald with its glaciers,
are within a short morning's row or
ride, (g) The top of the Wengem
Alp may be reached from this in 5 hrs.,
and (A) the Faulhom in 6 hrs. (t) The
Morgenberg, sometimes called Gumi-
hom (7400 ft.), is easy of ascent, and
commands a remarkably fine view. It
is the extremity of the range which
walls in the lake of Brienz on the S.
(;) The "Schynige Platte," which
crown the 1. portal of the Lauterbrun-
nen valley. The view from it is one
of the finest that can be obtained of
the Oberland range, and for ladies it is
the easiest of access. A carriage takes
k hr. to Gsteig. The same horse'are
used for the ascent, which leaves the
Lauterbrunnen road immediately be-
hind thech. of Gsteig, and reaches the
Schynige Platte in 3 hrs. (7»n, small,
good). The view comprises the whole
ran^ of the Oberlana Mts., from the
Wellhorn to the Blumlis Alp. The
mule-path up to the Inn is goo^ thence
a rough path, not fit for mules, leads
in i hr. to the Taubenhom, whence
the view is panoramic. A footpath
leads from the Schienige Platte m 3|
hrs. to the Faulhom. (k) Another
interesting excursion is that of
the Suleck, whose summit may be
reached in 3} hrs. by Isenfluh. Many
others of the surrounding mountains
wiU repa^ an ascent. The streams
usually originate in small glaciers, not
seen from the valley. They are de-
scribed in the following tour of the
Oberland. The view from the church-
yard of Aeschij on the S. shore of the
lake of Thun, forms a deservinff ob-
ject of a day's excursion. You leave
the carriage-road to Thun at Leis-
sigen, and take a footpath on the 1.
along a lane for 5 m. The carriage
may wait at Spietz. (See Rte. 37.)

At Urfers Subscription Reading^
room and Library • The Times,* * Gali-
gnani,' *I>^ats,'^&c., are taken in.

£ 3

ROUTE 25 B.— mTERLAKEN TO LA^UTEEBRUNNEN.

Sect. I.

The English Church Service is per-
formed every Sunday twice in the Old
chnrch by an English clersymany for
whom a small stipend is rormed bv
voluntary contributions among his
countrymen.

Dr, Mani, physicicm, speaks English,
and keeps an English dispensary. His
goat's tohey establishment is much re-
sorted to by invalids,

Post-office and Telegraph at Unter-
seen.

Horses or Mountain-ponies may be
hired at Interlaken at 11 fr. a-day,
bonnemain included, for one pony, or
10 fr. each when several are taken.
Guides abound, and are paid by tariff,
at the rate of 6 to 8 n>s. per diem,
but expect 1 fr. bonnemain. Carriages
are charged 10 frs, a-day for 1 horse,
20 frs. for 2. Instances of gross mis-
conduct are very rare ; but there is
no remedy except an appeal to a mag^s-
tra^, who usually seems to consider
the tourist fair game. Ask for the
printed Tariff put forth by the autho-
rities.

On many excursions (as to Miirren,
Schynige rlatte, Wengem Alp, &c.)
it is customary to drive as far as the
road will permit, then take out the
horses and saddle them for the ascents.

B. Interlaken to Lauterhrunnen,

About 2 hours' walk— a drive of li h.
Carriage there and back, with a halt
of 2 hrs., one horse, 8 fr. ; two horses,
15 fr. After passing a tract of ver-
dant meadow-land, on which great
wrestling-matches (one of which has
been described by Madame de Stael)
are periodically held, the road passes
on me rt. the Castle of Unspmnen:
it is in a very dilapidated state,
but a square tower, with a flanking
round turret, rise picturesquely above
the brushwood surrounding them. It
is the reputed residence of Manfred,
and its position in front of the high
Alps renders it not unlikely thatByron
may have had it in his eye. The real
owners of the castle were the barons
of Unspunnen, a noble find ancient
race, wno were lords of the whole

OberIa&d« from t^e Grimsel to tb^
Gemmi. Burkard, the last male de-
scendiant of this family, had a beau-
tiful and only daughter, Id9^ who -was
beloved by a young knight attached
to the Court of Berchtold of Zah«
rine;en, between whom and Burkard
a deadly feud had long subsisted*
Under such circumstances the youth-
ful Budolph of Wadenswyl, despair-
ing of obtaining the father's consent
to their union, scaled the castle-wallB
by night, carried Ida oS, and made
her his bride. Many years of bloody
strife between the two parties folloTved
this event At length Budolph, tak-
ing his infant son by Ida alongr with
him, presented himself, unarmed aud
without attendants, to Burkard, in the
midst of his stronghold. Such an
appeal to the old man*s affections and
generosity was irresistible ; he melted
into tears, forgot his wrongs, and, re-
ceiving his children into his bosom,
made Budolph's son the heir of his
vast possessions. At the time of the
reconciliation, the old baron had saitL
" Let this day be for ever celebrated
among us ;" and rural games were in
consequence, for many years, held on
the spot. These were revived in 1805
and 1808, and consisted of gymn^tic
exercises, wrestling, pitching the
stone, &c., in which the natives of
the different cantons contended with
one another, while spectators from
far and near collected on a natural
amphitheatre.

At Gsteig village the ascent of the
Schynige Platte (described above) com-
mences.

Leaving behind the village of
Miihlinen, whose inhabitants are sadly
afflicted with goitre (§ 18), the road
plunges into uie narrow and savage
gorge of the torrent Lutschine, Not tar
up, the road passes a spot of evil repute
as the scene of a fratricide — ** just the

Elace for such a deed." It was marked
y an inscription in the face of f^
projecting rock, called, from the
murder, the Evil Stone (Bose Stein),
or Brother's Stone. The encroach-
ments of the river upon the road
rendered it necessary to blast a por-
tion of the rock in order to widen

Switzerland.

KOTJT£ 26 Bw-«LATrrEBBBimKEN.

tbe carriAgewsv; in doing which the
injcsription has oeen displaced.

At the hamlet of zweiltttsohhieiiy
about two milea from the entrance
ot the Yalley, it divides into two
bTaoches: that on the L, from which
ftows the Black Xintschine, is the val-
ley of Grindelwald. The carriage-
road to Grindelwald (Rte. c) crosses
the bridge and leads up the valley,
termtnalied by the gigantic mass and
everlutmg snows of the Wetterhom
(Bte. 25 d) ; that of the rt., traversed
oy tiie White liiitschine, is the valley
of die Lanterbnumen, and it ought
to be Tisited first.

The valley of Lauterbrunnen is
reouffkable for its depth, its con-
tracted nidth, and for the precipices
of limeitoiie, nearly vertical, which
endote it like walls. Its name, lite-
rally translated, means ** nothing but
fountahu;" and is derived, no doubt,
from the number of streamlets which
cMt themselTes headlong from the
browB of the cliffs into the valley
beloWf looking at a distance like so
mmoy pendulous white threads.

The road to Lauterbrunne;i passes
under ^e base of a colossal preci-
pice, called Hunnenflue, whose face
displays singalar contortions in the
hmestone strata. If the clouds permit,
the summit of the Jungfrati now
bocBtB into sight; and soon after, sur-
moonting a steep slope, we reach

IdpOerbrunnen. Inns : Capricorn
(fttenbook), rather dear ; H. Staub-
had^ moderate : horses are kept here. '
%a TiQag'e contains about 1350
Inhak, dwefling in rustic houses,
scattod widely apart, along both
baaktof the torrent. It lies 2450 ft.
shore tile sea, so sunk between pre-
iAjkn tfiat, in summer, the sun does
ikH if^r till 7 o'clock, and in win-
ter att bdbre 12. Only the hardier
spedei of grain grow here, and the
cnaMrte is almost too rough for pears
and nples. About 30 shoots of water
^^6 from the edge of the ramparts
wldoi htm the sides of the valley;
And, vleii their tops are enveloped m
elcmiB, appear to burst at once from
the sky: many of them are dried up
in sonimer. These minor falls, how*

•

ever, are all eclipsed by that of the
Stctubbach, distant about ^ a mile from
the inn. It is ona of the loftiest fells
in Europe, measuring between 800 and
900 feet m height; and from this cause,
and from the comparatively small body
of water forming it, it is shivered by
the wind into spray like dust long
before it reaches the bottom (whence
its name — literally, Dust'Stresm).

Strangers, who expect in the Staub-
bach the rushing and roaring rapidity
of a cataract, will here be disap-
pointed; but, in the opinion of many,
this want is atoned for by other beau-
ties peculiar to this fall. The friction
of the rock, and the resistance of the
air, retard the descent of the water,
giving it, when seen in ftt)nt, the
appearance of a beautiful lace veil
suspended from the precipice, and
imitating, in its centre, the folds of
the drapery. When very full, it
shoots out from the rock, and is bent
by the wind into flickering undula-
tions. Byron has .described it admi-
rably, both in prose and verse: —

** The torrent is in shape, curving
over the rock, like the tail of a white
horse streaming in the wind — such as
it might be conceived would be that of
the * pale horse ' on which Death is
mounted in the Apocalypse. It is
neither mist nor water, but a some-
thing between both : its immense
height gfives it a wave or curve — a
spreading here or condension there
— wonderful and indescribable." —
Journal.

** It is not noon — the sunbow'g rays still uch
The torrent with the many hues of heaven.
And roll the sheeted silver's waTin^r oolomn
O'er thaerags headlonip perpendicular,
Anci fling its lines of foaiqing light along,
And to and fVo, like the pale courser's tail,
Tlie giant steed to be bestrode by Death,
Aa told in the Apocalypse." Mmfr§d.

The Staubbach is seen to perfSection
before noon, when the iris rormed by
the stm falling full upon it, **like a
rainbow come down to pay a visit —
moving as you move," and the shadow
of the water on the face of the rock,
give an additional interest. At other
times it is as weH seen from the inn
as from the nearest point which can be
reached without becoming drenched

ROUTE 25 B. — ^THE STAUBBACH. MUBBEN.

Sect. I.

with spray. Wordsworth has called
it " a skv-bom waterfall;" and when
the clouds are low and rest on the
sides of the valley, it literallj appears
to leap from the sky. ni winter,
when the torrent Is nearly arrested
by the frost, a vast pyramid of ice
is formed by the dripping of the water
from above, increasing gradually
upwards in the manner of a stalag-
mite, until the colossal icicle reaches
nearly half way up the precipice.
There is a smaller upper rail above
the one seen from Lauterbrunnen.
A footpath leads up to it in f of an
hour, but few think it worth the
trouble of the ascent.

Ulrich Lauener, of Lauterbrunnen,
is a celebrated guide. A younger
brother, Christian Lauener, is a good
and steady guide.

[A very Interesting ^Excursion may
be made from Lauterbrunnen to the
range immediately E. of the village.
About 200 yards beyond the village
a good horse-road ascends rapidly to
the rt., crosses the stream of the Staub-
bach above the falls, and reaches in
2^ hrs. the highland village ofMUrren,
*Inn (H. du Silberhorn); it is well to
agree about prices beforehand, espe-
cially if you stay 2 or 3 days. The
view of the Oberland chain is very fine,
and is further improved by ascending
to a point about half an hour above the
inn. The Jungfrau is seen from lop
to bottom, better than frt>m Wengem
Alp. But the main object of attraction
is the adjoining peak of the SchUtkom
(9799 Eng. ft!), commanding one of
the Bnest views in the whole range
of the Alps. It may be reached from
Miirren in from 3 to 4 hrs., the greater
part of the way by an excellent horse-

Eath, but at the end over some snow,
y a steep and rather difficult ascent,
in some states of the snow. It has been
frequently accomplished by ladies.
A melancholy catastrophe occurred
here, 1865: Mrs. Arbuthnot, while
making the ascent with her husband,
was struck dead by lightning. Moun-
taineers may descend into the Seefinen-
Thai (Bte. 36), and thence into the
Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen.
Guides may be had in abundance at

Miirren. The Passes ofFwrke and D&n-
dengrat were traversed by two^English
ladies, with two guides and a mule,
from Kandersteg to MUrren, in 15 hrs.,
in 1866. (See Bte. 36.)

Upper Valley of La-uterhrvnn.

Of the multitudes who visit Lian-
terbrunn, a very small proportion
trouble themselves to explore the
upper part of the valley, the scenery
of which is of the highest order of
beauty. The fall of the Schmadribach
is qmte a sufficient object for a day's
excursion; being, in truth, inferior to
few in Switzerland. It is a large body
of water, which, issuing from the gla-
cier, throws itself immediately over a
precipice of great height, and again
makes two more leaps, of inferior
height, but great beauty, before reach-
ing the bottom of the valley. The
road on leaving Lauterbrunnen con-
tinues nearly on a level, underneath
the magnificent crags of the Black
Monk, while numerous cascades of the
Staubbach character, leap from the
lofty crags on the rt. into the valley.

The curious little cascade of the
Triimmelbach, issuing from a deep
ravine under the Jungfrau, may be
visited by the way. The road as far
as Steckelberg, about 1 hr. from Lau-
terbrunnen, is practicable for a small
char, beyond that place it is so nar-
row that horses can alone go for ano-
ther f hr., as far as the hamlet of
Trachsel Lauinen, opposite which will
be seen the remains of an ava-
lanche, called by the same name,
which falls annually from the Jung-
frau, and spreads its ruins over a
surface of inany hundred acres. An
hour farther, in which there is a steep
ascent to be surmounted, stands a
single chalet, near the foot of the
lower fall; from which there is -^ an
hour's sharp ascent to the foot of the
upper falL Deciduous trees oeaae
below Trachsel Lauinen; thence to
the fall, the way lies generally through
pine forests, and the pasturage is
abundant to a much greater height.
High above tower the summits of the
chain, which, branching from the.

Switzerland, route 25 c. — lauterbrunnen to grindelwald. 86

Jungfiniii, is continiied in an unbroken
line of ice to the Gemmi.

If the path hitherto taken to the
upper &I1 be still farther followed, it
leaids over some marshy land and, in
I br. sharp ascent to the rt., to the
highest ]^tiirag^s in this part of the
A^ immediately under tne glaciers
of the Breithom. The view hence is
Tcry fine. The Steinberg (Rte. 35)
may be easilY reached by descending
aiskherfiimUy-inarkedpath to the rt.,
leadmg close to the Tschingel glacier,
and in } hr. to a cowhouse. The
stream must here be crossed, and the
higher path followed, when the Stein-
berg is attained ahnost on a level.
The ^ew from this point is mag-
nificent, and embraces the whole range
of the g^ts of this portion of the
Alps from the Jungfrau to the Blumlis,
in close proxinkity . It is quite possible
to descend from the Steinberg and
ascend the Miirren without going into
the yalley. Tbe path is not difficult
to Snd, as it is tolerably well marked
near ibe Steinberg ch^et, and its
direction thence easily seen. It enters
the mule-road to Miirren near the fine
fall of the stream, issuing from the
SefinenThaL

C. Lcniterbrunnen to Grmdelwald, — a. By
ihe char-road, b. By the Wengem Alp.

Soth Xiauterbrunnen and Grindel-
nild may be visited in one rather
long day from Interlaken, returning
IntheeTemng. If the WengernAlp
xoBte is chosen, a char may be taken
at Interlaken, and the saddle-horses
nisjbe used to draw the char, saddles
beng taken with it. The char may
dien he left at Lauterbrunnen, and
unll be ran down by boys to the
jmetion of the Grindelwald road,
f^Mre it will be found by the tourists,
iflio will in the mean time have
crosMd the Wengem Alp, and come
down from Gnndelwald on the char-
iK^es. One horse, 20 fr. ; two horses,
40 fr«for this expedition.

& By the high-road the time occu-
j>iai in going from Lauterbrunnen to
Ormdelwald is about 2 hrs.— the dis-

tance about 9 m. It is necessary to
return down the valley as far as the
Zwei-Lutschinen, then, crossing the
White, to ascend, by the side of the
Black Lutschine, a long ascent through
a valley, not unlike that of Simla at
the base of the Himalayas, with the
precipices of the Wetterhom and the
peaks of the Eigher in the background.
Nearer to Grmdelwald the two gla-
ciers appear in sight.

b. In fine weather there are few
more interesting or exciting journeys
on horseback among the Alps than
that over the Wengem Alp, or Lesser
Scheideck, Independently of the glori-
ous view of the Jungfrau, and other
giants of the Bernese chain, it is from
the Wengem Alp that avalanches are
seen and heard in greatest perfec-
tion, and no one should abanaon the
expedition without an effort. It occu-
pies 7 hrs., including 2 hrs.halt at the
summit. It is constantly traversed by
ladies on horseback, or in a chaise a
porteur (§ 10). Those who are at all
able to walk need take a horse to the
summit only, for which one dayJs
charged ; for the whole journey, 1^
day.

The bridle-path turns off at the chapel
nearly opposite the Staubbach, and
after crossing the river ascends steep
zigzags, which lead out of the valley of
Lauterbrunnen, in order to surmount
the ridge separating it from that of
Grindelwald. After nearly an hour of
toUsome ascent, passing the houses of
a scattered hanilet, it reaches a more
gradual slope of meadow land. The
valley of Lauterbrunn, beneath whose
precipices the traveller has previously
crept with some little awe, presents
from this height the aspect of a mere
trench; the Staubbach is reduced to
a thin thread, and its upper fall, and
previous winding, before it makes its
final leap, are exposed to view and
looked down upon. The path winds
to the rt. round the shoulder of the
hiU, and then, becoming steep and slip-
pery, crosses the meadows advancing
towards the Jungfrau, which now
rises in front of uie spectator, with
its vast expanse of snow and glacier,
in all its magnificence. Not only its

ROUTE 25 C. — WISNQISBN ALP. AYiliANCHES. Sect. !•

smnmit, but all the mass of the
mountain above the level of the spec-
tator, is white with ^rpetual snow
of virsin purity, which breaks off
abruptly at the edge of a black pre-
cipice, tbrming one side of a ravine
separating Ihe Jungfrau from the
Wengern Alp. It appears to be within
gun-shot of the spectator — so colossal
are its proportions, that the effect of
distance is lost.

About half an hour's walk short
of the col of the Lesser Scheideck
(where also there is an Inn) is a
very tolerable Ifm, H, de la Jvngfrau^
containing 20 beds to accommodate
strangers who choose to await the sun-
rise at this elevation, on the brow of
the ravine, 5350 ft. above the sea-level,
directly fiftcing the Jungfrau. From
this point the mountain is best seen,
as well as the avalanches desoendine
from it. The precipice before alluded
to, which forms the base of the moun-
tain, is channelled with furrows or
grooves, down which the avalanches
descend. They are most numerous
a litde after noon, when the sun and
wind exercise the greatest influence
on the glacier in loosening masses of
it, and causing them to break oft

The attention is first arrested by a
distant roar, not unlike thunder, and
in half a minute, a gush of white
powder, resembling a small cataract,
is perceived issuing out of one of the
upper grooves or gullies; it then sinks
into a low fissure, and is lost only
to reappear at a lower stage some
huncbred feet below; soon aft»r an-
other roar, and a fresh gush from a
lower gully, till the mass of ice, reach-
ing the lowest step, is precipitated
into the gulf below. By watching at-
tentively the sloping white side of the
Jungfrau, the separation of the frag-
ment of ice from the mass of the
glacier which produces this thunder,
may be seen at the moment when dis-
engaged and before the sound reaches
the 'ear. Sometimes it merely slides
down over the surface, at others it
turns over in a cake; but in an instant
alter it disappears, is shattered to
atoms, and, in passing through the
different gullies, apparently ground

to a fine powdel*. Independent of the
sound, which is an awfm interruption
of the silence usually prevailing on the
high Alps, there is nothing grand or
striking in these falling masses: and,
indeed, it is difficult, at first, to believe
that diese echoing thunders arise
from so slight a cause in appearance.
The spectator must bear in mind that
they are at the distance of 1 m. from
him, that at each diaoharffe whole tons
of ice are hurled down the mountain,
and that the seeming dust to which
it is reduced includes blocks capable
of sweeping away large trees, if such
occurrea in their course. During^ the
early part of the summer three or
four such dischai^s may be seen is
an hour; in cold weather they are less
numerous; in the autumn scarcely
any occur. The avalanches finally
descend into the valley of Triimle-
ten, the uninhabited ravine dividing
the Jungfrau from the Wengern Alp^
far deeper than travellers along the
mule-track have any idea of; and, on
melting, send forth a stream which
falls into the Lutschine, a little above
Lauterbrunnen.

[Neaar View of the Avalanches^— "Mi*
F. Galton drew attention in 1863 to
the view by the side of the gully im-
mediately facing the Jungfrau hotel,
to which the avalanches from the
Jungfrau converge, a point which may
be reached in 2^hn3. — 1 hr. on horse-
back— quite easily and si^ly by de-
scending into the TrtUneleten valley,
crossing the stream by a bridge, tra-
versing a narrow band of avuancfae
snow fallen frt)m the Mger, and then
mounting to the gully. The path is
perfectly simple and easy, save up
two low terraces of steep rock, where
the present absence of foot*hold (steps
might easily be quarried) necessitates
the assistance of a guide and rope.
On arriving at the side of the gully
a near view of the avalanches can be
enjoyed as safely as that of a water-*
fall. First a prodigious roar is heard
over head, then a storm of ice-haJls
tears through the gully and dashes
forth like a cataract upon a long slope
of ice and snow* Down this they
slide swiftly, with a hissing noise, into

Switzerland, boxtte 25 o. — ^the wenqebn au". the jungfrau. 87

ZW«tUTS6ll(

LAimmMUMMiM

Section to abow the natitfe of the View from the Wengern Alp, Fanlhom,

Scheinlge FUtlfii, An.

tfaed^^ oi the valley, CriMhes of

wate-ace(»ipaayeaohdi0charffe. The

ice difi that supply the ayaliuiohefl

tnmUeaooo ft. lief ore thej reaoh the

hefkd of tbe gully, which itself i» 1000

ft ]u§^: eoBsoqueiitljr the fragments

of ice hare time to be groond itito pev-

kesi baiLv They are usually 1 IL in

di'sneier, raxely more than 2 ft. They

form a narrow band of ice and snow,

extending nearly 3000 it, in addillonal

descent, &OB| the foot of the gully to

the ahnost inaoceseihle bottom (/the

low^ TaUey.l

A part of Lord Byron's * Manfred '

was either written or mentalljr com-

poeed on the Wengern Alp, in fiill

Tiewof the Jungfrau. He says in his

Jevraalt '* Heard the arftlanohea frU*-

ng eyery five minqte» nearly* The

doids rose from the oppoeite vaQey,

eot^ up perpendiotuor precipices,

li^ tSf> roam of the ocean of hell

ily|i^ a spring tide — it was white

ai4 ittlphwryf and immeasurably

da«| in appearance. The side we

ainaded waei not of so precipitous

ainAiae; buti on arriving at the sum*-

nltiwe loo)ced down upon the other

niilmpom a boiling sea of cloud, dash-

\s% igamst the crags on which we

8tM-4hese crags on one side- quite

perpendicular. & passing the masses

of mow, J made n snowball^ and pelted

BrtimKie irith it."^iSWM Journal,

«« Ye toppling crags 0/ iee—
V0 OMlbuAtfC, MthoA & breath AjAV/t down
Ili iMlstuiiidiiao'ttt«rhfllmiii^, Bdme k&a Mnifli

Craak Mfith u^egtrnt eet^iet; bat ye pui.
And only ftdl on things that still would live ;
On the yonng floarishing forest, or the hut
And hamlet of the harmless i^illager.
The mists hail up around the glaoiers ; e/oiMb
BUe eurlii^f far beneath mei white and sul-
phury,
Ukefbamhom the rwued ocean of deep kellV*

Manfred,

A day may be enjoyably spent on
the "Wengern Alp in thoroughly
taking in the grand scenery which it
commands. The Lauberhom, with a
more extensive and varied view, may
be easily reached in about H hr. from
either of the itms on the pass.

Beyond the Jungfrau Hotel the
track is tolerably level, and in about
2 miles the col or summit of the pass
is attained (6690 ft), where also tnere
is a tolerable Inn (H. Bellevue). The
view is very flne, including, besides
the Jungfrau, the Monch, the two
iighers, and the Wetterhom. Tra-
vefiers should on no account omit
walking J hr. to the very verge of the
valley (local jealousies have pre-
vented the formation of a footpath).
They should walk past the flagstaff,
and keep gently rismg, following the
ins and outs of the small spurs in
their way, and past a watering-place
for cattle, till they arrive suddenly on
the edge of a cliff overlooking the
Triimleten Thai, and become aware
of its little suspected depths and the
avalanche debris which strew its
bottom, The grandeur of the Jung-
frau ralige greatly rises iii the estima-
tion of tho^e who have seen it from here.
The lungfraut or Virgin, received its

ROUTE 25c. — GRINDELWALD,

Sect. I,

name either from the unsullied purity
of the snow, or because its crest was
long deemed inaccessible to human
foot Like most of the other peaks
of the Alps, she has lost her claim
to the title on the latter score, the
highest peak haying most probably
been reached for the first time in
1811, and again in 1812, by the
brothers Meyer, of Aarau; it was
again attained in 1828 by 6 peasants
from Grindelwald ; and, in August,
1841, by M. Agassiz, of Neuchatel,
accompanied by Professor Eorbes, of
Edinburgh. Tne course they pursued
was by the Ober-Aar glacier to that
of Viesch, and then by following up
the Aletsch glacier from the Marjelen-
see. It has since been ascended by
M. Studer and by seyeral English
trayellers. The Jungfrau rises to an
eleyation of 13,671 ft aboye the
sea-leyeL Farther on appear the
Monch, or E^ein Eigher, 13,438 ft.,
and the Great Eigher (^Giant), 13,044
ft. On approaching Gnndenwald, the
Schreckhom (Peak of Terror), 13,394
ft., comes into sight The sharp,
needle-formed point of the Finster*
Aarhom, the highest peak in Switzer-
land, 14,039 ft aboye the sea-leyel, is
only yisible at interyals peering aboye
his brethren. The glaciers, which cling
around these peaks, and fill up the de-
pressions between them, extend with-
out interruption from the Jungfrau
to the Grimsel, and frt>m Grindel-
'wald, in canton Berne, nearly to the
handets of Viesch and Moril, in the
Yalais. The extent of this glacier
field has been calculated at 115 sauare
miles, or about one-sixth of all the
glaciers among the Alps.

The descent to Grindelwald takes
up about 2^ hrs., milk, strawberries,
and beggars at frequent internals by
the wayside. The path is steep,
and for 20 min. lies oyer marshy
ground. It passes within sight of a
forest said to haye been mown down
by the faU of ayalanches, but more
probably decaying, as is not unusual
on the higher grounds at present
The trunks, broken short off close to
the ?rouncC still stand like stubble
left by the scythe. Byron describes

*' whole woods of withered pines —
all withered; trunks stripped and
barkless; branches lifeless; done by a
single winter — ^their appearance re«
minded me of me and my fiunily."

In descending into the yalley, the
Wetterhom (ascended by Mr. Wills in
1855) is seen in front, and on the L
the Faulhom, surmounted by its inn.
On the rt., low down, appears the
white lower glacier of Grmdelwald,
issuing out of a gorge, on a leyel with
the h^itations of the yalley.

Grindelwald, — Inns: Bar (Bear) at
the W. of the yillage; Adler (Eagle)
at the E. end, — ^both yery fair. The
pension of the Adler is a charming
residence. English Church Seryice in
summer.

The yillage of Grindelwald, con-
sisting of picturesque wooden cottages,
•widely scattered oyer the yalley, stands
at a height of 3250 ft aboye the sea,
from which cause, and from its yici«
nity to the glaciers, the climate of the
yaUey is cold, and unstable eyen in
sunmier. Its inhabitants are chiefiy
employed in rearing cattle, of which
6000 head are fed on the neighbouring
pastures; and many act as guides.
The younger females pick up a few
halfpence by singing Banz de Vaches
at the inns, and most of the children
are beggars — occupations arising
from the influx of strangers into
the yalley, which has exercised an
injurious influence upon its morals
and ancient simplicity of manners.
The yalley has not been inhabited
aboye 400 years, and the peasants
assert that the climate becomes
gradually worse, and giye instances
which seem to bear out their state-
ment It is certain that there were in
former days seyeral paths into the
Yalais which are now impassable;
and it is said that the peasants of
Grindelwald used to cross to the
Yalais to be married.

Grindelwald owes its celebrity, as a
place of resort for trayellers, to the
grandeur of the mountains which sur-
round it, and to its two Glaciers (§ 16),
which, as they descend into the very
bottom of the yalley below the leyel
of the yillage, and almost within a

^nj^^latid, ROUTE 25 a — grindelwald. the aLACiERS.

stone's-throw of human habitations,

are inare easily accessible here than

in o&R parts of Switzerland. Three

gigsn^ moontains form the S. side

of the T»lley — the Eigher, or Giant;

the Mettenberg (Middle Mountain),

which is, in fact, the base or pedestal

of tlie nagnificent peak called »chreck-

hom; and the Wetterhom (Peak of

Tanperts), at the upper end. Be-

tweaith^ three mountains the two

gJ«fl«n of Grindelwald issue out.

"^Jtn branches of that vast field

or ooein of ice mentioned aboye as oc-

capjing the table-land and high valleys

*™Mst the Bernese Alps, and, being

pushed downwards by the constandr-

increiffiiig masses aboye, descend &r

below the line of perpetual snow (} 16).

Their chief beauty arises from their

Ijeing bordered by forests of fir, which

fonn, as it were, a graceful fringe to

the white ice, while the green pas-

tnres, with which they are almost in

eostact near the base, contrast agree-

aiijwithth^ir frozen peaks. Though

inferior in extent to those of Cha-

monni, of the Aar and of Aletsch,

the traveller who has seen even them

will do well to explore the Glaciers of

Grindelwald.

Guides. — Peter Bohren, facile prm-
cepsj from his many ascents; Christen
Almen; Ch. and Pierre Michel;
Jean Baunuum; Ulrich Kanfmann.

The Lower Glacier, also caUed the

ttttUer, although four times as large

•* the upper one, forces its way out

^■*»ecn the Eigher and Mettenberg,

SBdit descends to a point only 3200

feet above the level of the sea. A

p^ ascends along its left margin,

"^*«th the precipices of the Metten-

^>^ and past a ch&let (Bllrenegg,

2 hfi. waiK) where wine can he

go^eonuuanding a view of the brist-

fing ouaarets of ice, of the lower

po*^d the glacier, and affording

means of paying a visit to its middle

portioB, which is one of the pleasantest

excyrman o» t?ie Alps; with a local

gside oecnpying 5 or 6 hrs. in the

wholes jnclu<mig 1 or 2 on the ice, and

not &t{gaing. It is not good for timid

yenoBt, as the path skirts some for-

jnidtiAb precipices, and the recent

shrinking of the ice compels travellers
to descend by a ladder of perhaps 50
steps^ clamped to the face of the cliff,
a small fee is paid for descending it;
but it is taken Dy ladies, who may ride
on horseback for the first \ hr., and
be conveyed to the ladder in a chaise
^ porteur. This excursion offers to
those who cannot mount great heights
one of the grandest and wildest gla-
cier views imaginable, the cultivated
valley being completely hidden, and
nothing visible but the enormous peaks
of the Eigher, Schreckhom, Viescher-
homer, &c., which form a superb am-
phitheatre, very little inferior to the
scene from the Jardin. In 1821 M.
Mouron, a clergyman of Vevay, was
lost in one of the crevices. Suspi-
cions were entertained that the aniide
who accompanied him had murdered
him, and search was immediately
commenced for the body. After 12
days of fruitless attempts, it was at
length drawn out by a guide, who
was let down from above by a rope
with a lantern tied to his neck. The
watch and the purse of the unfor-
tunate man were found upon him,
so that the suspicions regarding the

glide were proved to be groundless,
e was buried in the church of Grin-
delwald.

In following the path to the ch&let
we arrive at a singular depression in
the rocks, called Martinsdruck, pointed
out to the traveller, and opposite to it,
in the crest of the Eigher, a small hole,
called Martinsloch, through which the
sun's rays shine twice a-vear. Once
on a time, according to the tradition,
the basin now occupied by the Eis-
meer was filled with a lake, but the
space between the Mettenberg and
the Eigher being much narrower than
at present, the outlet from it was con-
stantly blocked up, and inundations
produced, which ruined the fields of
the peasants in the valley below. At
length St. Martin, a holy giant, came
to their rescue; he seated himself on
the Mettenbere, resting his staff on
the Eigher, and then, with one lusty
heave of his brawny back, not only
burst open the present wide passage
between the two mountains, out left

ROUTE 25 C. — ASCENT OP THE FAULHORN.

SectL

the marks of his seat on the one, and
drove his walking-stick right through
the other.

A jery fine avalanche is occa-
sionally seen from this path to fall
from the precipices on the other side
of the glacier. In ahout 2 hrs'. walk
from Grindelwald the path reaches the
place where it becomes necessary to
take to the level ice, and the ladder
is descended. The path thus far is
the beginning of the Strahleck pass
(Bte. 27 a). The tourist may now
take a promenade on the ice to the
chalets of Stiereck, or maldng a par-
tial circuit round the Mettenberg,
climb ii as high as he has a mind. At
every step the grandeur of the ice-
field in front of him increases.

At the foot of the lower Glacier i
hr. from the Inn, is a grotto hewn in
the ice, the beauty of the blue light
transmitted through its walls repays
the 50 cents the maker of it exacts
from visitors. The foot of the gla-
cier is otherwise as dirty and unat-
tractive as the feet of glaciers usually
are.

An extensive quarry of ice for the
markets of Paris and elsewhere has
been established here, and is in full
operation aftor the busy season of
the year. Hundreds of workmen hew
squared blocks, which are wheeled to
a cottage on the west end of Grindel-
wald, thence it is carted to Neuhaus,
shipped to Thun, and taken direct to
its destination by rail.

[The glacier passes from Grindel-
wald to the ^ggischhom are five
in number, and occupy respectively
from 16 to 22 hrs. actual walking.
Those between the Monch and the
Viescher Homer, and between the
Monch and the Jungfrau, are the
shortest. The former is the easier,
the latter is said to be the noblest of

aiy

The Uf^er Glacier may be visited
in going over the Scheideck. The ice
of its lower portion has an unusually
clean and pure surface.

Ascent of the Faulhom,

The Faulhom is a mountain 8674
ft. above the sea-level, situated be-
tween the valley of Grindelwald and
the lake of Bnenz, and commanding,
from its summit, an excellent near
view over the neighbouring chain of
Bernese Alps. On this account it is
ascended in the summer-time, like
the Bigi, by travellers. It may be
reached from Grindelwald, or from .
the summit of the great Scheideck '
pass, and from the Sohynige Platte;
or from the Giesbach, on the lake of
Brienz — a nasty and dangerous path,
not to be attempted without a ^oide—
about 14 m.— by foot.

Ladies who do not ride may be
carried from Grindelwald in *' chaises
h porteurs," with 4 bearers to each ,
chair, at 6 frs. each ; or if the party
sleep on the Faulhom, 9 frs. A
guide to the top is well paid with
6 frs., or 9 if they remain all night:
a horse 15 frs. up and down; but
30 fr. (an extravagant price) is charged
for horses from £xterlaken. The Inn
on the summit is closed in October.
It has 24 beds and a fair larder, but the
charges are extravagant ! In the height
of summer you must secure beds be-
forehand, or be early on the top. The
path from Grindelwald leads over the
Bach Alp, by the side of a small lake,
1000 ft. below the summit, 3^ hrs.
from Grindelwald. The view of the
Bernese Alps from the top forms
the chief feature of the panorama,
which in this respect, and from the
proxinuty of the Faulhom to those
snowy giants, far surpasses the pro-
spect from the BigL On the other
hand, though the lakes of Thun and
Brienz are both visible, only a sinall
strip of each appears, which is but a
poor equivalent for the wide expanse
of blue water which bathes the foot
of the Bigi.

A circuitous but tolerably easy path
leads in 2 hrs. from the Faulhom to ihe
Inn at the summit of the Scheidedk.

Those who cannot reach the sum-
mit of the Faulhorn will be well re-
paid for mounting its slope for an
hour or two on thej road, in order to

ROUTE 25 D. — GRINDELWALD TO REICHENBACH. Sect \

himself to blow the alpine Aom,
a rude tube of wood, 6 or 8 ft long,
A fSew seconds after the horn hM
ceased, the simple notes of the instni'
ment are caught up and repeated 1^
the ' echoes of the vast chff of tlie
Wetterhom, and return to the en
refined and softened, yet perfecdj
distinct, as it were an aerial conoe^
warbling among the cra?s.

The view down the vfUley of Gm-
delwald, from the Scheideck, is y&j
striking : its green pastures contrul
agreeably with the bare wall of At
Wetterhom. Beyond it, on the i,
rises the sharp crest of the Eigho^
resembling the up-turned edge of i
hatchet. On the Scheideck (6480 ft.
above the sea-level) stands an /m,
Steinbock, with roueh sleeping and
indifferent acconuno&tion.

The prospect in the opposite direc-
tion, into the vale of the Keichenbach
or of Bosenlaui, is not so remarkable.
Two small glaciers are seen sus-
pended on shelfe of the precipitous
ranee connecting the Wetterhom and
WeUhom; further on, between the
Wellhom and Engel-horner (angels'
peaks), the Glacier of JSosenkad lies
embedded. By a detour to the rt, a
curious glacier, the Lower Glaxsier of
Schwarzwald, may be visited. It is
composed altogether of snow and frag-
ments of ice that fall from the upper
part of the Wetterhom into the valley
which separates this part of the track,
over the Scheideck, from the mounUuiL
1^ hr. in descending from the Stein-
bock inn, partly through a wood oi
firs, brings the traveller to the

Bat?i8 of Bosenlaui, a clean /mi, re-
built on a larger scale, B^, 2 hrs. froo
the summit, very prettily sitnated,netf
a source of mineral water, resent-
bling closely that of Harrogate, whid
supplies baths. Wood carving is veiy
well executed here. A few yards be-
hind it the Beichenbach torrent issues
out of a cleft in the rock. About 20
min. from the baths is the Glacier ^t
SoserUauif which is smaller than those
of Grindelwald, but is celebrated above
all others in Switzerland for the ui-
tarnished purity of its white surfSiice,
and'the clear transparent azure of its

get the fine view of the S. side of the
Grindelwald valley, which cannot be
seen from Grindelwald itself or from
the bottom of the valley.

[A far superior expedition for
moderate mountaineers, and not much
longer, is to the top of the Schwartz-
horn, from Bosenlaui, or from the
Great Scheideck. Take a rope. Xhe
view extends much more widely to the
E. The mountain is some 1000 ft.
higher, and is more isolated than the
Faulhom.]

D. Grindelwald to Reiohenbach or Mey*
ringeUf by the Great ScheidecK

Hours.
Grindelwald.

Scheideck 3

KosenlaQi 2

Reiohenbach 2i

About 20 Eng. m. ; 6 hrs. fiist
walking. On horseback, for ladies,
it is a ride of at least 9 hours, in*
eluding halts. No guide is required.

[An hour's walk up the valley from
Grindelwald, and a slight detour to
the rt. of the direct path to Mejrringen,
leads to the Upper Glacier. {See above.)

The first hour from Grindelwald is
through the meadows in the valley;
afterwards the ascent is easy, and
during the whole of it the Wetter?u>m
(Peak of Tempests) overhangs the
path, an object of stupendous sub-
limity. It rises in one vast preci-
pice of alpine limestone, apparenUy
close above the traveler's head,
though its base is more than a mile
off. Avalanches descend from it in
the spring and summer through four
different channels, sometimes, though
very rarely, extending to the path,
and travellers have been exposed to
danger from thenu Mr. Wills, in his
* Wanderings among the High Alps,'
has given an interesting account of
his ascent of the outermost, or most
northerly, of the three peaks of tiie
Wetterhom, that whose sharp sum-
mit is seen in passing the Great
Scheideck.

Upon tibe slope in front of the
Wetterhom a man usually stations

icebergs. ^^ ^^ D.— REICHENBACH FALLS.

MEYRINaEN.

!?*?^ fro^:, peculiarity arises

• ^T^see § 1^^ *^a^g no medial

**?f^v ^ ^ pi . '^^ ^▼aace and

«^<*6erTed h?^^^ ^7 be very

^?t» '^ this J'!! « its bed is a flat

^^ A8teep^^';f^«weUworth a

^ ^ m o? °^ *l^e L of the

^^•fflBBttt ofa i?5 i an hour to

^^^y^^tothein ^^cli projects
<*f*fi«iaderabP««a, and bends i
point of ^g^ y* Itformsagoc
fro™ ^ riw./?e torrent isauii

bas

its

good

torrent issuing

Worn a deep

diaflfflintfg

from the frail bS*^ sid^fin whk^,
the «i(en j^j "ge thrown across it,

side /flij «tre^^gen runs by the
5ton5iWeo^> ^rst crossinc a

the «i(en j^ ^e thrown across it,

•^"^ A^ \^^« Of an English

^^iCt' ^ J; ^m this point de-
tO#to?^^^t;ice: it*is a fa-

tf^ Si^^t^^^e pencU of the

^^^«%i^horC the WeU-

«^.M wWf ^ peaks caUed En-

'*»^\6 ^ mountain group

^%m ^\C\uresqueness.

%9^ tb« valley contracts ; nu-

* mtm waterfefls are seen dangling

ftiaits sides: one of them, from its

Wht sod tenuity, is caUed the Bope-

M|[SeiIbacfa) ; and now a bird's-eye

tjevopoisout into the yale of Ifasli,

tfVmingen, which, in comparison

1^ me narrow glens of Grindelwald

AaLoterbnumen, deserves the name

wsplaiB, though bounded by moun-

t»^%h and steep.

, flatter part of the descent lead-
P%ntoitia steep and rugged, and
mJl^ with smooth and slippery
JJj*!^ stone. On this account
"*"*« are usually invited to dis-
J^ ttid descend on foot. The
^"•j of the Beichenbach performs
"^jWJiait of nearly 2000 ft. in a
2I2!** of leaps, the longest of
JJgOtte the celebrated FalU of the
f?2?^ '^e upper fall is si-
^« a short distance to the L
2»2?*df near the village called
.J^^g^A small fee is exacted for
twanT^y ^ ^®8s the meadow be-
"^^ tt and the road, and a hut

called Belvedere is built beside, it.
But it is best seen from a rocky head-
land shooting out in front of tne bare
amphitheatre of cli£& over which the
cataract dashes, and just above the
struggling torrent, hurrying down-
wards after its &U. A little lower is
another but inferior fall ; and by a
third, still lower, the stream gains the
level of the valley, and hastens to
join its waters to the Aar. The lowest
fall is very near to the

Reichenbach Hotel, 2^ hrs. from Bo-
senlaui, is, when not overcrowded,
a comfortable house, making up 40
beds, at the foot of the mountun —
hot and cold baths. Table-dliote
3 frs., bed 2 frs., breakfast 2 frs.
H. des Alpes, also very comfortable.
In fact, since the Beichenbaph Hotel
has been built and furnishes horses
and chars, there is no necessity for
going to Meyringen either on this
route or on the Grimsel route. These
hotels are distant about } m., by a road
and bridge over the Aar, from the
village of

Meyringen — (Inns: Sauvage, best;
ask ior the fish called ''Lotte;"—
Couronne) — on the rt. bank of the Aar,
the chief place in the vale of Hasli,
an excellent specimen of a Swiss vil-
lage (2516 Prot. Inhab.). The pic-
turesqueness of its situation, on the
rt. bank of the Aar, in the midst of a
truly Alpine valley, is much praised.
Its precipitous and wooded sides,
streaked with white cascades almost
without number, and here and there
overtopped by some snow-white peak,
are beautiful features. A Stone Dyke
1000 ft. long protects it from the
inundsCtions of the torrent Alpbach,
T^hich, subject to sudden rises, and
cutting through loose shaly strata of
lias marl, has more than once threat-
ened to bury Meyringen in a torrent
of mud and water. A line on the
wall of the ch., 20 ft. from the around,
shows the height attained by the mud
and gravel in 1762.

There are 2 Protestant churches
here. Either in one of these, or at the
Sauvage Hotel, English Ch, service is
performed on Sundays in summer.

Travellers should visit the FaU of

B0XTTE25E. — ^JlETHmaBK TO mTERLAKEN. BRIEN2. Sect

the A^pibach about 9 in the morning, |
on account of the triple bow, or iris,
formed in its spray when the snn
shines on it. The inner iris forms
nearly a complete circle, and the outer
ones are more or less circular as the
water in the foils is abundant or not.
The spot whence it is visible is within
the spray from the cataract, so that
those who would enjoy it must pre-
pare for a wetting.

On a rock above the village rise
the ruins of the Castle of Besti: it
belonged to an ancient and noble
family, to whom the praise is eiven of
never tyrannizing over their nnmble
dependants.

The men of Hasli are celebrated
for their athletic forms and strength.
They hold Schmngfeste^ or wrestung
matches, every year, in July, August,
and September, with their neigh-
bours of Unterwalden and Qnn-
delwald. Ilie women, again, enjoy
the reputation of being prettier, or
rather less plain, than those of most
other Swiss valleys. Their holiday
costume is peculiar and not ungraceful,
consisting of a bodice of black velvet
reaching up to the throat, starched
sleeves, a yellow petticoat, and a round
black hat) not unlike a soup-plate, and
about the same sii^, stuck on one side
of the head, and allowing the hair to
fall in long tresses down the back.

Good Gftides here.

At Meyringen converge the carr.-
roads— a, fh>m Brienz; b, from Lu-
cerne by the Brtlniff (Bte. 19); and
the BrtdU'-pafhs — c, from the Grimsel
(Bte. 26); the Falls of Handeck are
5i hrs. walk on the way thither ;
dj the Joch Pass to En^iberg (Rte.
32) ; tf, the Susten to Wasen on the
St. Grotthard; and the Grt. Scheideck
to Bosenlaui and Grindelwald.

s. JHfeyringen to Iwterlaken^ by Briensi
(xnd ihe Giessbach FaUe, — SotJAorrL

H hr. drive or 9 Bng. m. to Brienz;
char 7 fr.$ diligence twice daily.
Thence to Literlaken by water, 10 m.

There U an ekcellent cairriage-road
down ihe vaOey, passing numerous

cascades leaping down t)ie wall of i
After proceeding; for about 4 m. aloj
the L Ddnk of the Aar, it crosses
river by a wooden bridg^ near Brie
wyler (5J m.), where the branch
the Briinig roadleading to Brienz (T
1 9) descends into the valley. The .
pursues its course through monotone
marsh atid flat meadow land; but nc
its influx into the Lake of Brienz,
form of the mountains on its L bt
above which towers the Faulhon
grand* In skirting the margin
the lake, the road crosses heaps
debris, covering acres of land ol
fertile. A torrent of mud, in 17^
destroyed a considerable part of
villages near Kienholz ; and a Isi
slip from the Brienzergrat^ the moi
tain immediately behind Brienz, on
whelmed, in November, 1 824,40 acres (
land, and swept 6 persons into the laJce.
Brienz— Inns : L'Ours, good ; near
the landing-place ; Weisses Kreute
(Croix Blanche), clean, at Tracht (both
rather dear). There is also an hotel at
Kienholz, tne Bellevue, about a mile
from Brienz, towards Meyringen.
Carriages may be hired at Brienz,
over the Brfinig Pass to Lungem :
also to Meyringen or Reichenbach.
Brienz is a vilGige of 2284 Inhab^
at the E. end of the lake, on a narrow
ledge at the foot of the mountains,
remarkable only for its beautiful situ-
ation, and its vicinity to the Giessbadi
FalL Ask for the Lotte, a fish of the
lake (Gadus mustela). This is a good
place for buying carved wood-ware.

[From Brienz the traveller may
ascend the BotJihomy the bighe^
point of the chain running behina
(N. of) Brienz, which commands i
view nearly as fine as the Faulhoni
Its top may be teached in abora
4 hours by a stout walker, in 5 bj
a horse, and in 6 by a chaise ^ por-
teurs. The upward path lies at firs!
through a re^on of nne forest-treea
chiefly beech, but including manj
oaks : to these succeed larch, an(
above them one-third of steep ascoj
over a bare and barren track. OntJj
ascent, fine views are obtained pfougl
vistas in the forest of the Lake o
Brienk. Near the top a c^fei was bail

«**v

^UTE 25 E. — LAKE OP BRIENZ. OIESSBACH FALUS. 95

iS^^tC^^Mt lie Bummit is
Wll^^n^^^' "^d not so high
V*^^^ « takes 2 or 3 hrs.

^ »*. "^^ cMef features of

^^W^Jjth a fore^ound of
nSSta?^^^ close under the

fc?^<&L iC P w)ove Interlaken.
^*.^'?!* of Meyringen.
8^^'^fli *"* "P nearly to

a''^ A ?^ge of the Titlis and
*k*mi?®.^e of Samen, with
may be se<
* considerable

tJieTfi"

^er^kethat

Samen,
may be seen in
j^^jj^ ^e o> " ^^siderable part

«W?*C ^«^ ^P^te makes a

i«to*^% -^'^^^t^^ The view
Wl^iu //"^in the Rothhom
iSr^ % ^f ii^* from the Faul

^(Xl

ijiiti x^**-^ lower country
\ia\ Y^**i the summit to

^ifiesshach Falls,

"•» whwMi Brl^^'^ times daily, in 1
^"•Ah^jtthc ^- ^ *iid Interlaken,
^^4fr.aai i ^^^sbach every trip.
■•nfte 8t»nx^^^* ^ *^® traveller
Ifl^ktakesah^w * w prefers a row-

te*oCli^»i_^ ^"^ i^^cluding a
Bnain ^*^ach. Boat 10 fr.,

kiMsiliwt&tGrr^^nz IS about 8 m.
"wTW} B^^^1781 ft. above the

GleM) M)^ii^^^ mouth of the
d«|C*M 2^0*^ deep, but in the

?^% ft ? "Its surface is
than the lake of

tkni

Tnhirlitir^ of the lake, between

JT^J* tod Brienz. By this and

™"J«ld of the Briinig the en-

«* Wte from Interlaken to the

ZwflflDoeme is open fbr carri-

igit, fieiv is dso a pretty foot-

Htf ife Che S. side of the uke by

fieikvniBr touches at the Giess-

bach every trip to and fro ; but stops
only to take in and let out passen*

gers. It takes 25 minutes to row
*om Brienz to the landing-place,
close to the outlet of the Giessbach,
where travellers begin to ascend the
very steep though excellent road,
that leads in 20 min. to the Falls,
The^ are a succession of cascades,
leapmg step by step from the top of
the mountain ; and, though inferior
in height to the Beichenbach, surpass
it in beauty, and in the adjuncts of a
rich forest of fir, through the midst
of which they break their way. The
Giessbach is one of the prettiest of
waterfalls : there is nothing wild
about it, and the immediate contact
of green turfy knolls and dark woods
has the effect of a park scene. You
can easily pass behmd the third fall
by means of a gallery constructed
beneath the shelving rock, from which
it casts itself down ; and the effiect of
the landscape seen athwart this cur-
tain of water is singular. The excel-
lent Griessbach Hotel, 100 beds, belong-
ing to a joint-stock company, close to
the Falls, affords by far the best

2uarters in the Bernese Oberland.
*aths have been cut through the
woods to the best points of view; and
the Falls are lighted up with Bengal
lights everyni^t from June to Sep-
tember. The effect is very beau-
tiful; it is like a fairy scene at an
opera; 1 fr. per head is charQ;ed in the
Hotel bills, on accoimt of it. Good
specimens of the Swiss manufEu;ture
of carved wood may be purchased at
the Giessbach, of the Kehrlis, de-
scendants of the schoolmaster who
first opened out the Giessbach to the
world.

[There is a fool^ath from Giess-
bach Hotel to Bnenzwyler on the
road to Lucerne, by the Briinig, and
to Meyringen.]

..»♦"»<»!

f '

ROUTE 26.— PASS OF THE GRIMSEL.

Sect. ]

ROUTE 26.

PASSES OF THE GRIMSEL AND FURCA —
MEYRINGEN OR REICHENBACH TO THE
RHONE GLACIER AND HOSPENTHAL.

Hours.
Meyringen or Reichenbach.

Guttanen 3i

Handek li

Grimsel Hospice . . . . 2i
Rhone Glacier Iim. . . . 2i

SS^nthal } Carriage-road. ^

A good char-road has been carried
past Reichenbach Baths over the Eir-
chet to Imhof, beyond which is a
much-frequented bridle-path.

This is an important line of com-
munication to the tourist. It is
strikin? in itself, for it passes the
falls of Handek, and the glacier of
the Rhone. Many and most interest-
ing excursions also diverge from it.

To those coming from Brienz or
down the Scheideck (Rte. 25 d), Rei-
chenbach is the best starting point, and
it is unnecessary to go to Meyringen.
But those coming across the Briinig
or from Meyringen cross the Aar by
a wooden bridge, and in about 20 min.
fall into the Reichenbach road.

The vale of Hasli now contracts, and
in about 2 m. is crossed by a mound
or hill near 800 ft. high, called the
Kirchetf which appears at one time
to have dammed up the waters of the
Aar. At present they force their
way through a singularly narrow
rent, which cleaves the eminence
from top to bottom, called the Finster
Aar Schlucht, which extends by a pre-
cipitous but quite practicable descent,
from the summit of the Kirchet to
the Aar. It is a fissure in the lime-
stone rock; and, from the great size
of the opening, it would seem that a
stream as large as the Aar must
have passed tmrough it It may be
seen without occasioning the traveller
more than an hour's delay. There
is £1 sign-post 1. of the roaa to direct
him tb the "Finstem Aar Schlucht."
The beautiful scenery at the upper
mouth of the cavern, and the savage

grandeur of the perpendicular rock
as the path emerges upon the mai
gin of the Aar, wiU amply con
pensate the labour of the descen]
On the Earchet are erratic blodi
of granite on the limestone. (Si
§ 16). The path, leaving for '!
short time the river on the 1. a^
the char-road on the rt., mounts tli
steep eminence of the Kirchet I
zigzags, and then descends into tit
retired ^een valley of Upper Had
which IS in the form of a baala
surrounded by hills, and was ono
probably a lake. [Two valleys opa
out into it; on the S. that of Urbach
on the E. that of Gadmen, up whid
runs the path leading by the pass ol
the Susten (Rte. 32) to Wasen. B)
taking the path to the rt. on descend-
ing from the Kirchet, a detour maj
be made into the Urbach Thai, the
scenery of which is wild and striking.
An ill-traced path along theW. slope
of the valley of the Aar leads from
the openmg of the Urbach Thai to
Guttanen.] On the 1. Ues the YUlage
Im-Grund, and, crossing the Aar,
another village, called Im-Bofj situated
between it and the Gadmen nvevs
passed ;— all in- the little plain, ^e
char-road here ceases. Fromlm-Hof
(/wn, good wine) a path branches ott
to Engelberg over the Joch pJ«s
(Rte. 33). Another ravine is suc-
ceeded by a sedond enlargement ol
the valley called Im-Boden. Higher
up is the small and lonely village ot

Guttanen— Inn, mr. Travellers turn
aside L to view the Falls from below,
about } m. short of ^

Handek {Inn, clean and good), usuaUy
selected for a midday halt to rest tw
mules. It is best to sleep here if itw
late, and there be a chance of the Ho*
pice being crowded. It stands close m
the Falls of the Aar, perhaps the hneM
cataract in Switzerland, fro"* ^"
height (more than 200 ft.), the quan-
tity and rush of water, the gloom o^
the gorge into which it precipitaws
itself, and the wild character of tJJ
rocky solitude around it ^*J[^.^
remarkably easy of access, so that to
traveUer may form a full estimaW «^
its grandeur; surveying it, first, ffo

Switzerland,

rotU into wkch it plunges, and after-
^ trom above, stretchine liia neck

tne hrnv r,f *\, V . „

BOUTE 26. — FALLS OF THB AAR.

S^.wu^'*'^ °^ *^« precipice from
"^ the ri^ takes its feap, and

™l»g It (if his nerves be steady)

^ iiew from this point, not more
wa or 6 ft ahove the fall which
I!r2i'^'*t« to caU the best, is
j*«Wy impressiye and stimulate
^f£«?.'»fiJ is the rush of water

dZ m n .""^"^ than halfway
2^» ne unbroken glasay sheet
S^^,f^intowhite^foam^

HaiiiUr\ J!^ ^'**e Erlenbach or
2™> P^g in from the right
Z^h^ ?P0J, takes precisely the

o'doAariiVS' ^^^vT^ ^^
iofain^orerCfS' """^ '^''

w^thttl'hSV' a% '^""^^
into a few d^^'J^y dwindles away
y^f* pnti»i, ,. ^'^shes, and disap-
pean ajH a little abive Handel

«L. «f wni^ "^e scanty vegeta-

Sjf ^^» rhododenSro^and

S^^«^en this partial covering

SKl?*^'^^ly»in some placS

^T^fJ«»dpeeledoff. Tfiereis

»30ta^nt2in. above Handek. caUed

22^ or mieplatte, where the

2r5?*? *^e bed of an ancient ffla-

S fcj ^ ^^^^^ ^"^®^ extendinflr

"25 «>^ the valley, has ground

gjwid polished, by its weight and

2"^t''e suifiice of the sloping

.JjTBx granite rock, leaving, here

■JrJ*Bnpon the surfoce, horizontal

S^^^ furrows, which may be

"ifc 1^ the scratches made by

j^jJJJJ upon glass. This polished

"^We montonne'e) extends for a

^Rljfj^lyim. Professor Agas-

—^■ffe left his autograph in the

. autograph

Wrwfat ^^ ^ ^ customary and
i'^ERj? dismount here, and cross
j»r*J»Bit of road on foot, since the
E™?^ the rock,- though chiselled
C^Jf^ves, to secure a footing for the
F'^JJ^aa very slippery ; but a secure

path, and a stout post and rail on the
side of the abyss, is now carried over
the slippery ruck. The valley of the
Aar, up which the narrow path is car-
ried, looks stem and forbidding from
its sterility, and the threatening cUifH
of granite which overhang it The
Aar is crossed ^0Teral times by dixzy
bridges of a single arch, £Drmed of
granite slabs without a parapet.

There is but one human habitation
between Handek and the Hospice, the
miserable chalet of the Biiterichsboden,
where the ravine expands once more
into a basin-shaped hollow, probably
once a lake bed, with a marshy bot-
tom, affording scanty herbage for a
few eoats, with a dismal valley leading
to tne mountain Niigelis Grattli on
the left A little above this the path
quits the Aar, which rises in the
Aar-glacier, about 2 miles higher up
on the rt, and ascending a glen,
strewed with shattered rocks, reaches

The Hospice of the Grimsel (a large
mountain Inn) was orig^ally a con-
ventual establishment, and after the
Beformation was supported by the
neighbouring communes, in oraer to
shelter those who travel from necessity,
and to afford a fi;ratuitous aid to tlie
poor. It is now oiaily occupied during
the summer months by travellers for
pleasure, sometimes to the number
of 200 at once, who sit down at
a table-d'hote usually about 7 o'clock
in the evening : the charges are
not high. It is often so full in
summer that those who arrive late
are liable to fare ill, and it is often
impossible to secure single -bedded
rooms. It is a massy buildine of
rough masonry, designed to resist a
weight of snow, and with few windows
to admit the cold. It contains 50 beds,
in cells divided by thin partitions,
and aifords good fare, better far than
might be expected in a spot more
than 6000 ft above the sea, ana removed
by many miles from any other human
dwelling. The establisnment indudes
a man cook, a wash^mvoman, and a
cobbler, and they have clothes to lend
to drenched travellers while their own
are drying. It is occupied by the
innkeeper who rents it from March

ROUTE 26» — HOSPICE OP THE GRIMSEL.

Sect I.

to November. One servsnt passes
the winter in the house, with a suffi-
cient provision to last out the time
of his banishment, and two dogs, to
detect the approach of wanderers, for
even in the depth of winter the hos-
pice is resorted to bj traders from
Hasli and tiie Valais, who exchange
the cheese of the one valley for the
wine and spirits of the ower. Its
situation is as dreary as can be con-
ceived, in a rocky hollow, about 700
ft. below the summit of the pass, sur-
rounded by barren slopes and steep
precipices. The rocks around are
bare and broken, scarcely varied by
patches of snow, which never melt
even in summer, and by strips of
grass and green mo£(s, which shoot up
between the crevices, and are eagerly
browsed by a flock of 150 goats. A
considerable supply of peat is dug
from a bog withm a few yards of the
door. In the bottom of this naked
basin, close to the house, is a black
tarn, or lake. Althou^^h entirely co-
vered with deep snow m winter, it is
rarely frozen, as it is supplied from a
warm spring. Beyond it lies a small
pasturage, capable of supporting for a
month or two the cows oelonging to
the Hospice, and the servants cross
the lake twice a-day, in a boat, to
milk theuL It is a hmdscape worthy
of Spitzbergen or Nuova 2embla.
This wilderness is the haunt of the
marmot, whose shrill whistle fre-
quently breaks the solitude ; and the
chamois, become rare of late, still
frequents the neighbouring glaciers ;
both animals contribute at times to
replenish the larder of the Hospice.

On the 22nd March, 1838, the
Hospice was overwhelmed and crushed
by an avalanche, which broke through
the, roof and floor, and filled all the
rooms but that occupied by the ser-
vant, who succeeded with difficulty in
working his own way through the
snow, along with his dog, and reached
Heyringen in safety. The evening
before, the man had. heard a myste-
rious sound, known to the peasants
of the Alps and believed by them to
be the warning of some disaster : it
appeared so like a human voice that

the man supposed it might be some
one in distress, and went out with his
dog to search, but was stopped by
the snow. The next morning the
sound was again heard, and then came .i
the crash of the falling avalanche. -^
The Hospice has been rebuilt and :;
enlarged since a fire caused, 1852, by :■,
an incendiary Tthe landlord, an om ^r
man 62 years of age, in order to ob-
tain a renewal of his lease, which rah. ^
out 1853). His crime was discovered,
owing to a change of wind, before the
buildmg was destroyed, and the criml- ,,
nal tried, and sentenced to 20 years' ^
imprisonment.

"In August, 1799, the Grimsel be- '
came the scene of one of the most re-
markable skirmishes in the campaign.
The Austrians were encamped upon
the Grimsel with the view of pre-
venting the French from penetrat-
ing into the Valley of the Bhone by
that pass. They had possession of
the whole declivity from the summit
of the pass to the Hospice, and also
of the platform on which the Hospice
stands. Their force consisted of rather
less than 1500 men. The French
troops under General Gudin, con-
sisting of about 3600 men, were posted
in the Oberhasli valley in the neigh-
bourhood of Guttanen. The Ans-
trian commander, Colonel Strauch,
naturally relied upon the strength of
his position, which had not on^ the
advantage of a great declivity, but of
the numerous narrow fissures in. the
rocks, which might be defended by a
few men, protected by the upright
masses of granite, against a large
army. The French General also con-
sidered the ppsition to be impregnable
to an attack in front, and was there-
fore placed in a situation of great
anxiety by receiving positive orders
from Massena, who had then the chief
command of the French army in
Switzerland, to force the pass or the
Grimsel on the 14th of August.
Fahner, the landlord of the Inn al
Guttanen, then undertook for a. re-
ward to guide the French over a
mountain called Kageli's Gratli to th«
summit of the Grimsel at a highei
level than the Austrian position.

Msetkrid*

SOUTE 26.— AAR GLACIEES*

*'Tbfi next morning early Gndin

coiM about 400 men to the guid-

aoce of^ihner ; and at the same time

lie seat I smaJl detachment over and

TouBd the Sidelhom, who were also

to de»e&d from the higher parts of

mtounitimapon the Grimsel, and

««»iMet the party guided by Fahner

<yrer the nonntain on the opposite

Bu& Gadin himself advanoed with

niL?" ^7 ^^ ^^ troops up the
Obayi Tiifey to the platform on

▼Wch the Hospice now stands, and
attajiedihe Aurtrian position in front
--wAthe characteristic impetuosity
of FwBch soldiers. The Austrian
comnoder was convinced that the
attack could not succeed in this direc-
ts.Jjnt drew down the greater part
OT BB force from the summit of the
2"™^ ia order to repel it with ef-
^*|J">* xme sharp fighting ensued.
^^iJj^e Austrians were alarmed
'y ariD^on the heights to their rear :
Mdito continuance, together with the
Wjfsnce of French soldiers in that
™tion, convinced them that an im-
P*tot attack was commenced in a
qwrter from which they least ex-
P*t«^ it The appearance of the
^7 in their rear, with numbers as
'"Mown as the means by which they
*■« there, induced the Austrians to
'JJQ' } and the impetuous advance of
P*™ produced a panic which ended
a » disorderly flight up the Grimsel
»J» direction of Obergesteln, in the
J5 '^ *® Khone. On the summit
J"«ft Grimsel, however, they again
Jwwfli the enemy ; for by this time
SJiSjP ^^^t^'^^d by Gudin over
tJtJ^**"! had nearly reached their
option, and had almost effected
S22f"*^tion with the party led by
***iBt The number of the killed
?L^Rydnot to have exceeded 150,
®* WW the French composed not
^Pjjyafifth part. The wounded
^T^ ^ere necessarily left to
T^^jjf the nature of the ground
JJ™'^it impossible for such of
-^ Jipanions as escaped to re-
®^*ei, and the French troops
Ij^'^f&fecily over into the valley

^ sotiice of the Aar lies in two

enormous glacierS) the 05^ and Untev"
Aar-GletscheTf to the W. of the Ho-
spice. The Unter'-Aar elacier is the
best worth visiting, and the lower
extremity of the ice may be reached
in 1^ hr. from the Hospice. It is
remarkable for the evenness of the
snrfEice of ice and the rareness of
crevasses on its surface. It is abont
14 m. long, and from 1 to 2 broad.
At about 7 m. from its lower end the
Racier divides into two branches.
The rt. branch to the traveller ascend-
ing the fflacier is the Lauter Aar
Glacier; the L branch, the Finster Aar
Glacier, The two are separated by a
steep rocky promontory called Im
Abschvoimg, which forms the base of a
huge ridge, whose other extremity
inmiediately above Grindelwald is
called the Mettenberg. The highest
summit of this ridge seen by the
traveller ascending the glacier is the
formidable peak of the Schreckhom.
On the opposite or S. side of the
Finster Aar Glacier is the still more
imposing summit of the Finster Aar
Horn, the highest of the Bernese Alps.
Owing to its great dimensions, and
the ease witii which it may be tra-
versed in most directions, the Unter
Aar Glacier has long attracted those
who wished to study thoroughly the sin-
gular phenomena of glaciers. In 1827
Hugi erected a rude nut on the glacier
near the foot of the Abschwimg. In
1840 the remains of this hut were
found by Agassiz to have advanced
about 4600 fl. In the following year
M. Agassiz and a party of scientific
friends established themselves in an
equally rude shelter, on the medial
moraine of the glacier, which they
styled the Hotel des Neuchatelois.
H!ere they continued during several
successive seasons to carry on obser*
vations, which are recorded in the
works of M. Agassiz. A more secure
and convenient dwelling was finally

Provided by M. Dollfuss-Ausset of
lulhouse. It is a substantial hut on
the 1. bank of the glacier, called the
Pavilion.

A Panorama of the Grimsel and
the neighbouring peaks and glaciers
may be seen from the top of the

F 2

100

ROUTE 26. — GRIMSEL TO HOSPENTHAL. FUECA. Sect. I.

StdeUiOf-ny a mountain on the rt. of the
path leading to Brieg and the Furca;
its summit may be reached in 3 hours
from tiiie Hospice ; and from the
Todten See Hotel the trip is still
shorter. It is 9500 ft above the sea-
lereL The ascent is not vejry difficult,
and the view miignificent. It is pos-
sible to descend frpnv the, sj^mmit of
the Sidelhorn to the 6ber-A,ar glacier,
and thence by very rough ground
to the lower end of the Unter-Aar
glacier.

Grimsel to Hospenthal by the Fitrca,

About 7i hrs. == say 19 Eng. m. It
is 6J hrs. walk, except when snow
lies thick, when it may take 8.
The bridle-path between the summit
of the Grimsel and the glacier of the
Rhone called Mayenwand, it is better
to cross on foot than on horseback.
Guide not necessary in fine weather,
except to show the path in one or
two places.

The summit of the pass of the
Grimsel (7530 ft. above the sea, 700
ft. above the Hospice) is 2 m. from
the Hospice; a steep path, marked
by tall poles to guide the wayfarer,
leads up to it. On the crest lies
another small lake, called Todten See,
or Lake of the Dead, from the corpses
of French and Austrian soldiers, who
were killed there in 1799 being thrown
into it by way of burial. The sterility
of the surrounding scene gives addi-
tional appropriateness to the name.
An Inn has been built here (exactly
7000 ft.). There is a little-known
pass from this point to the Gadmen-
thal(Rte.27 6). Along the crest of the
mountain runs the boundary between
Berne and the Valais, and just below
it the path divides, that on the rt.
going to Ober-Gestlen (Rte. 28).
The pedestrian without a guide should
be careful which path he takes. The

Obergestlen path leaves the lake on
the 1., the Furca path leaves it on

thert. , -r 1 jf^x.

From the gloomy little Lake ot the
Dead, skirting along the brink of
a precipitous slope,' it descends very
rapidly. This portion of the way is the

worst of the whole, being very steejp,
slippery, and muddy. However, it
soon brings the traveller in s^ht of
the Glacier, though at a considerable
depth below him. On attaining the
bottom of the Mayenwand, he will find
a really good im (H. du Glacier
du Rhone), kept by Seller of Zermatt,
a good centre between Furca, Grimsel,
and ^ggiscldiom. [By keeping to the
L on the descent the pedestrian with
a guide may avoid part of the Mayen-
wand, and, crossing the glacier, he
will fall into the path to the Furca.]

About ^m, above the Inn the Rhone
issues out to day at the foot of the

BJume Glader,. one of the grandest
in Switzerland, fit cradle for so mighty
ft stream. It fills the head of the

valley from side to side, and apnears
piled up against the shoulder oi the
Gallenstock, whose tall peak over-
hangs it. The source of the Rhone,
in a cavern of ice, is about 5400 ft.
above the sea, Jf you pursue a
track up the W. side, or rt. bank
of the glacier, you come suddenly
upon a very fine wcierfaUy rushing
forth from the glacier, and dashing
without a break into an icy cavern
about 150 ft. below, sending forth
clouds of freezing spray. This large
body of water, after forming a pas-
sage for itself under the glacier, issues
forth from the cavern at its foot.

The heights above the sea, in Eng.
ft., of the Rhone at various points in
its course are as foUows: — ^At foot of
glacier, 5750; at Brieg, 2302; at Sion,
1630; at Lake of Geneva, 1230j at
Fort deTEcluse, 1066; atSeyssel, 802.
The road from the Rhone Glacier
to Ober-Gesteln in Route 28.

A carriage-road was made over the
Furka from Ober-Gesteln and. the
Rhone Glacier by the Swiss Govern-
ment in 1866. A Diligence crosses
daily from Brieg to Andermatt in 12
hrs. The new road ascends by bold
zigzags to a great height along th€
side of the vast basin, having the
glacier on the 1. for a considerable
distance, .thus commanding the best
view of this magnificent sea of ice, sc
that a correct idea may be formed o:
its extent and thickness, and of th<

ROUTE 27.

PASSES LEADING TO OR FROM THE
OBIMBEL.

Besides the mule-paths leading over
the Grimsel there are several passes
in different directions, suited only to
those who are in good condition for
walking, and well accustomed to ice.

Sabserhnd, rtsl 27. — ^passes leading to or from the qrimsel. 101

moHipIidty of its yawning crevices.

Exttptihe Stelvio, no other carriage-

Toai\iimM jou into such intimacy

with 1 gucier. From the higher

^cmeei, where the road leaves the

giader to mount upwards, views,

catinlv but on • ikte old path, - open

out, Q( die entire Alpine chain from

Monte Leone to Weisshorn, of the

Gtlensteck, Mischabel, Dom, Spitz-

^^, &c The steepest part of

tie ine&t is mastered by 7 sweep-
ing Bgags through green pastures

to de snmmit of the pass, or Fork,

^^B^ijim two mountain peaks, from

^*Wcfc it receives its name. From

this pomt, 8150 ft. above the sea, near

theCross which marks the boundary of

theontons of the Valais and of Uri,

there is a beautiful view of the Ber-

neae Chain, the Finster-Aar-Hom

being pre-eminent among its peaks.

'^ top of the Furca is never alto-

g^er free from snow : there is no
plain or level surface on it

Oa the Furca is a good Tnn^
JfnDei's, with 25 beds. [It serves as
eonTenient quarters for those who
wodd enjoy the view from the Furca
/fom (1 hr. above the inn) at sunset
or smuise. A more difficult enter-
prise, fit only for practised mountain-
eers, is the ascent of the Galenstock
(tbont 11,900 Eng. ft), which has been
tthieved more than once by travellers
itarting from the Furca Inn.]

from the Bhone Glacier Inn to the
^nca Inn takes from 2^ to 3 hrs. ;
fteaoe to Hospenthal about 1} hr.
^descent commences as soon as the
oijlis crossed, over the Sidli Alp,
^Mis covered with pastures, but
nnotonous and uninteresting in its
Koerr, and destitute of trees. It is
cftetod by the new road in a long
Mbh of serpentine windings. Not a
iMMMtt seen between the Furca and

, <fln^(ifin: H. des Alpes). Hospice,
^BB^vt a Capuchin monk, has a small
^ifi. It is about 4 m. of level road
hoioeto

BHfmthalyOTi the St. Gothard (Rte.

34) (am .- Meyerhof, a large hotel, car-

riago^iaddle-horses, and guides, excel-

J<*dTj Golden Lion, civil landlord), or

2^iiL'fertlier to Andermatt (Rte. 34).

a. — 8TRA.HLISCK — GRINDELWALD TO
0RIM8EL.

A difficult pass, suited only to skil-
ful mountaineers. In fine weather it
is free from danger. It is one of the
most grand and striking in the Alps,
and is now not uncommonly performed.
The time required will depend alto-
gether on the state of the snow, and
may vary from 13 to 16 hrs., allow-
ing for a short halt at the summit.
It is perhaps most frequently taken
from the Gnndelwald side, but those
who know it well reconmiend the
opposite course; the ascent from the
Grimsel is less considerable, and the
views are on the whole finer. The
hard day's work may be broken by
sleeping in the highest chalets at the
foot of the Viescherhomer, 3 easy
hrs. from Grindelwald; or at the Pa-
vilion by the Aar Glacier, if the
traveller attacks the pass from the
Grimsel side.

The path, on leaving Grindelwald,
ascends rapidly on the 1. hand of the
lower glacier, and is practicable for
horses for about | hour; it then
becomes a footpath overhanging the
glacier. After descending a ladder
clamped against the face of a cliif
(Rte. 25c), the now shrunken glacier
is reached and followed; or, if de-
sired, a path on the cliff side
may be pursued for some distance.
The ascent of the upper part of the
glacier is now commenced. Then
some very steep rocks have to be
climbed. Soon afterwards the glacier is
again reached, and all path terminatt^s.
From this point the view of the

102 ' ROUTE 27. — ^PASSES LEADING TO OR FROM THE GRIMSEL. Sect. L

Schreckhom, which rises immediately
oyer yon on the leflt, is tmly magni-
ficent. Continuing along the gU^ier
(which is here without crevasses,
but difficult to walk on, on account
of its steep slope from the left), and
passine immeaiately below two la-
teral ^aciers, which almost overhang
you, a nearly precipitous wall of snow
is reached, forming the end of the val-
ley. At this point you turn to the left,
and, ascending the glacier a few hun-
dred feet, reach a shady ridse of rocks
rising very steeply, ana at right angles
to the former route. This is ascended
for about 1^ hr., when a platform of
snow is reached, across which, after
another short but steep ascent, the
summit is gained in -J an hour.

The summit of the Strahleck is, in-
deed, the perfection of wild scenery.
Vegetation there is none, save a few
of the smallest gentianellas. The
height is about 10,500 English ft., and
it lies in the very centre of the highest
^roup of the Oberland Alps, l^ing,
in fact, the ridge which connects the
Schreckhorn with the range of the
Finster Aarhom.

The descent from the summit to-
wards the Aar Glacier by the well-
known ice-wall of the Strahleck forms
the principal difficulty of this expedi-
tion. In certain states of the. snow,
nervousness or rashness on the part
of any single traveller might endanger
the lives of an entire party; but when
the proper precautions are taken there
is no real risk. Just below the steepest
part a wide crevasse or bergschrund
must be passed, but this is generally
pretty well bridged over with snow;
the slope soon becomes less steep, and
before long the travellers may safely
run or slide down to the ndve of the
Finster Aar Glacier (Rte. 26). From
the foot of the passage, the Abschwung,
where Professor Agassiz's hut was
situated, may be reached in IJ hour:
thence to the hospice of the Grimsel
will take a good walker 3 hours, two
of them on the ice.

The demands of the guides at Grin-
delwald for this pass should not be
submitted to. On one occasion they
asked 180 fr. and took 30 fr.

This pass has been two or three
times crossed by English ladies with
the assistance of numerous guides and
porters.

5. — GADIOSNTHAL TO GBIMSEL.

Though this is a very beautifiil ex-
cursion, it has been but seldom tra-
versed, and has not as yet received a
name.

It is in no sense a short-cut, as the
detour by the valley of Hasli may be
made in much less time, but in fine
weather it is an iiiteresting excursion
for practised mountaineers. From
Miimestalden, at the lower end of
the valley of Gadmen (Arnold Kehrli,
of Miihlethal, is a good guide), a nar-
row gorge opens to the S., down which
flows the stream from the Trift gla-
cier. The glacier is reached in 2^
hrs., and about i hr. farther a
chalet, called Graggij is seen on side
of the glacier. A night's rest on clean
hay may there be obtained, and it is
the point from whence the Steinhaus-
hom (10,303 ft.), the highest moun-
tain immediately overlooking the val-
ley of Hasli, may most easily be as-
cended. The view is said to be very
fine. From Graggi it is easy to reach
Guttanen, by the ridge of the Furt-
wang and the Steinham Alp, but moun-
taineers will prefer to traverse the
great snow wastes which lie between
uie ridge of the Steinhaushom, on the
W., and the still higher range of the
Sustenhom and Galenstock, on the
E. For nearly an hour from Grag^
the glacier presents no difficulty; it
then rises steeply in shattered masses,
and it is necessary to climb some
steep, but not very difficult, rocks.
In another hour the upper plateau, a
wide-spreading snow-field, is reached.
Two hrs. of fi^radual ascent lead to the
summit of the flattened ridge which
separates the Trift from the Rhone

f lacier, about 10,000 Eng. ft. in heig^ht.
'rom this point the view of the Oa-
lenstock, a pyramid of rock, probably
inaccessible on this side, is very fine.
The ridge to the 1., between the Ga-
lenstock and Sustenhorn, overlooks

Subitzcrland, bte. 27.^-^vabseb leading to or fbom the obimsel. 103

tile wild Tallej of Goschenen, a tii-
butsry of the Benss. Time pennit-
tiiig, it would be worth a traveller's
trouUe to gain that ridge. In de-
scending the nppNennost part of the
Bhone ebder it is advisaole to keep
to the L, and then cross the glacier
diiagoDftUj. There are manj con-
cealed ererasaes. The most direct
coarse to the Orimsel leads oyer
much Tongfa ground by a small lake
called **linSaa8;" but it is more easy
to make a slight circuit by the Todten
See. lime required about 12 hrs.
With good guides a traveller might
strike to the L from the upper plateau
of theBh<me glacier, along the slopes
of the Galenstock, and reach the
Fozca Lm at ni^ht.

C. — OBERAABJOGH — GRDfSEL TO THE
JE6GISGHH0BK.

!nus is one of the most magnificent
passes in Switzerland. It is a hard
ds/'s work, and the descent of the
Yieseher glacier is very difficult, but
the gramdeur of its scenery will well
repay any traveller who may explore
it in fine weather. -

It Is advisable to start before day-
light from the GrimseL As &r as
the foot of the Unteraar glacier the
Tonte is the same as that of the Strah-
leek pass: here it ascends to the
chileto at the foot of the Oberaar
This is almost as easily
as the lower glacier (27 a),
bitt Ae ascent to the Col (which pre-
sent! BO difficulty worth mentioning)
is nthflr more rapid. The summit of
thesMi is reached in about 5^ hrs.
Thevieseh g^lacier is very muck cut
up by vide crevasses throughout
Doaciyiits entire length, but the worst
ptOtmf be avoided by a circuit over
the ^piflks on the rt. bank. After de-
BfwBfc ibr about 2 hrs. from the
JTod^ Se glacier becomes quite im-
prMteUe, and it is necessary to
seraoi^ down some steep and drip-
pii^ipeks, which form, in fact, the
Jow«r sbpes of the Yiescherhomer.
J3ewaw of descending too low at the
foQt of the glacier; near the chg,lets

of Stock, an ascent (of no difficulty)
is required to reach the level of the
hotel on the iEgjriscfhhom (Rte. 28).
This is &r prererable to the long
and fatiguing descent that is neces-
sary to reach Yiesch.

d, — GRIMSEL TO MEYBINGEK, OVER THE
LAUTERAAR AJTD QAULI GLACIEB8.

'*We set out from the hospice of
the Grimsel a little after 5 A.M. For
some distance the route is the same as
that of the Strahleck, but, instead of
turning to Ihe L up the !Finsteraar
glacier, it inclines to the rt. along
the Lauteraar to near its head, where
the ridge of the Lauteraarsattel runs
across from the Schreckhom to the
mountain marked in Keller's map
Berglistock, but called by Anderegg,
Schneehom. Here we turned to our
rt. and commenced the ascent of the
steep ridge of rock which, running
from the last-named mountain, forms
the boundary between the Lauteraar
and Gauli glaciers. After having
reached about half its height, we
turned again, to our rt for some dis-
tance, parallel to the Lauteraar gla-
cier, till we came to where the passage
of the ridge is to be made. The ascent
is up rock and loose shingle to the
summit, which is very narrow. On
the northern side the aescent is down
an extremely steep slope of hard frozen
snow, which occupied nearly 1 h. be-
fore we reached the Gauli glacier,
down which we slid, and before 2
o'clock were off the ice. The route
then is down the \Jrbach Thai, and in
parts is very steep. At Hof we struck
m upon the road to Meyringen, and
reacned ^that town a little after 6
o'clock, having been 13 hrs., including
stoppages, in coming by this pass from
the Grimsel; 5^ hrs. were upon the
ice."— 5. F,

[From the head of the Lauteraar
glacier it is possible to reach Rosen-
laui, instead of descending to Mey-
ringen. An account of the passage
is given in Desor's 'Excursions et

104

ROUTE 28. — GRIMSEL TO BRIEG.

06Cli* -L*

S^jours dans les Alpes.* It appears to
be a very difficult expedition, and
should be undertaken only in the
finest weather, and with experienced
guides.]

ROUTE 28.

ORIMSEL TO BRIEG, BY OBERGESTELEN
— THE JEGGISGHHORN.

Grimsel Hospice to
Obergestelen.

Miles. Hrs.
— 2i

Diligence daily from Brieg to Khone
Glacier and Furca. Pass to St.
Gotthard.

On reaching the summit of the
Grimsel Pass (Rte. 26) this path leads
to the rt., whilst the Rhone Glacier
and Furca path goes to the 1. It is
a walk of 2| hrs. from the Grimsel to
Obergestelen direct; l^ut most people
make a detour to visit the glacier and
source of the Rhone (Rte. 26). Below
the glacier, the Rhone plunges through
a magnificent gorge ocfore reaching
Oberwald.

In all the villages along the road
horses and chars may be had.

Oberwald. {Itms : H. de la Furca;
New Inn, 1867.) The descent of
the Upper Valais from Oberwald
to Bneg, a distance of 8 hrs.
(about 27 m.), is tame and unin-
teresting for the first part of the
way, below which, 'especially about
Yiesch, its scenery is singularly beau-
tiAil. The peak of the W eisshorn is
a noble object as far as Yiesch, and,
though 40 m. off, seems to block up
the Talley. Looking up, the Ga-
lenstoek appears in view with like
grandeur. The road runs along the
rt. bank of the Rhone. [From Ober-
wald a path diverges over the col of the
Gterenhom to the Niifenen.]

Ijm. Ober-Gestelen (Fr., Haut Chatil-
lon) (Tnnj Cheval Blanc ; clean and
civil), the highest village but one (Ober-

wald being the highest) in the Upper
Yalais, 4360 ft. above the sea-level.
It is situated on the rt. hank of the
Rhone, about 8 m. below its source in.
the glacier. It is the depot for the
cheese transported out of canton Berne
into Italy, and is a place of some
traffic, as it lies at the junction of the
4 bridle-roads over the Grimsel, Furca,
Niifenen, and Gries (Rte. 62).

In 1720, 84 men were kffled here
by an avalanche, and lie buried in
one grave in the churchyard.

H m. Uli-ichen. [Opposite this the
valley of Eeinen opens out — up it
runs the pam leading over the Gries
and the Niifenen (Rte. 63).] The
Upper Yalais (Ober-Wallis) is very
populous, and numerous unimportant
villages are passed in rapid succession.
One of the largest is

2^ m. MUnster, containing about 400
Inhab., and a. good Inn, La Croix d'Or,
in full view of the peak of the Weiss-
horn, a neighbour of Monte Rosa. The
landlord's nephew, Antonio Guntren,
is a trustworthy guide, well acquainted
with the Gries pass. 18 fr. for horse
and carriage to JBrieg; 20 fr. to Yisp.
From Miinster the ascent of the
Loffelhom (10,268 Eng. ft.) may he
made in about 4 hrs. The view of
the Finsteraar Horn is said to be sin-
gularly fine, but in other respects the
position is not equal to that of the
jEggischhom. The natives of the
Upper Yalais are a distinct and
apparently superior race to those of
the Lower. The language is German.
The Romans never penetrated into the
higher part of the Rhone valley.

If m. Hechingen, a handsome ch.

4 m. Niederwald (Inn), fountain of
excellent water by roadside.

4 m. Viesch (a fair country rnn, H. du
Glacier, but charges high) lies at the
entrance of a side valley, blocked up at
its upper extremity by the Yiesch gla-
cier, aoove which rise the peaks ciSled
Yiescher-Homer. There exists a tra-
dition that a path once led up this
valley to Grindelwald : it is no^v en-
tirely stopped by the glacier, and this
circumstance is supposed to prove s^
great increase of the mass of ice.

^wibserkiJid.

ROUTE 28, — ^tHb ^jggischhoen.

105

p^ ^ggis4^iho)'n. — Scarcely known
to tnvellers before 1854, this has
becoBK one of the head-quarters of
loTen o! high Alpine scenery. It
owes this rapid nse to its admir-
able portion, and to the excellent /nn,
opeaied 1856, ivhich affords more of
comfort ud convenience than are to be
obtained elsewhere at an equal height
and under similar natural difficulties.
The Tttt gnow'fields which cover the
southern flanks of the higher Bernese
Alps send down two great glaciers
towaids the valley of the Bhone.
The lesser of these, the Viesch gla-
cier, bas been already referred to
(Bta 27 c). The-greater of them, the
Ai^bck gheier — the most considerable
ice-iiT^ in the Alps, or perhaps in
the world — originates in the vast
baain vhich is enclosed by the peaks
of the Aletschhom, the Jung&au, the
Mooch, the Trugberg, and the Wal-
liser Viescherhorner. Its length, from
the Mooch Sattel to the source of the
Ifassft at its base, is fully 20 m., with
a breadth varying from 1 to nearly 4
m.; and by its extent and the uni-
formity of its slope, it far better de-
serves the name of a Mer de Glace, or
Eta Meer, than any other glacier in
the Alps.

From the Monch Sattel, between

the Monch and the Jungfrau, the

main stream of the glacier preserves

for 12 or 13 m. a nearly straight

WDise, a little E. of S., until it abuts

>oinst a steep pyramidal mountain,

yndchlies exactfy in the course of the

ioe^Keam. By this it is deflected to

the rt., or S.W.; its slope becomes

MQevhat more rapid, and its bed

nanover, till it nnally disappears

^foat aght in a deep ravine, from

issues the torrent of the

The moimtain which thus

aside the flow of the Aletsoh

is the ^ggiscMorn, Its sum-

mH (9656 Eng. ft.) commands a full

^'jew of the entire course of the gla-

«ae^ tod of the grand range of peaks

widdi surround it, in itself an unsur-

PMMi combination of grand natural

oigttte; but besides these the pano-

raora which it presents in clear

weaftef includes nearly or quite all

the highest summits of the Alps.
Taken in the order in which they
present themselves, we have Mont
Blanc, with his attendant alpuilles;
the Grand Combin, or Graffeneire;
the Weisshom, Matterhom, Dom,
Monte Rosa, Laquinhom, Weissmies,
Monte Leone; tne range extending
from thence to the St. Gothard; the
distant Todi, seen beyond the Furka
pass; the Galenstock, Oberaarhorn,
and Finsteraarhom, suoceeded by the
group already enumerated. There is
probably no other spot at all easy of
access nrom which all these summits
are visible at the same moment.
Among other objects of interest the
Veisch glacier^ which is rather an
ice-cataract than an ice-river (Bte.
27 c), should not be overlooked. It
presents a striking contrast with the
tranquil and scarcely ruffled flow of
the great Aletsch glacier.

Looking downwards some 2000 ft.
below the summit, another remark-
able and almost unique object is seen,
which, however, requires a nearer
visit in order to be fully appreciated.
Immediately N. of the ^ggischhom
the ridge separating the ^etsch and
Viesch glaciers is depressed into a
flat plateau, 2 or 3 m. in length, and
nearly ^ m. wide. On one side the
Aletsch glacier rises above the level
of the plateau in steep cli£& of ice,
forming a barrier which prevents
the outflow of water on that side.
Hence the waters which accumulate
in summer, from the drainage of the
surrounding mountains, form a small
lake called the Mdrjelen See, upon
whose ice-cold surface the blocks of
ice that fall away from the clifis float
as miniature icebergs. The ice-cliffs
rise about 50 ft. above the water, and
are grounded in 30 ft. below water. In
order to prevent the lake from unduly
encroachmg upon the adj acent pastures
a channel has been dug, by which the
surplus waters escape m the opposite
direction, and join the torrent from
the Viesch glacier. From time to
time the onward movement of the
Aletsch glacier opens some sub-gla-
cial channel, by "svnich a great part of
the waters escape beneath the ice,

106

ROUTE 28. — ^THE ifiaGISGHHORN — ^EXCUBSIONS. Sect. I.

leaying a whole fleet of icebergs
stranded on the shores of the lake.

Hotel, on the S.E. slope of the
iEggischhom Cat about 7000 ft),
considering the difficulties to be
overcome, must be pronounced ex-
cellent. The host, M. Wellig, is
extremely obliging and attentive, and
has a fair knowledge of cookery, and
the charges are reasonable. About 40
beds are made up; and as the house
is sometimes quite full, a numerous
party should write beforehand to
secure rooms. Eng. Ch. service.

There are 4 ways of reaching the
^ggischorn. — a, from Viesch, 2 hrs.;
hf from Lax, 2^ hrs.; c, from Morill,
by the Rieder Alp, sA hrs.; (f, from
the Bel Alp, 4^ hrs. The first 3 can
be made on horseback the whole
way, but the easiest is from Viesch.
A good horse-track has been con-
structed as far as the hoteL For
nearly an hour the path mounts by
zigzags through a pme-forest, whose
shade affords protection from the
sometimes oppressive heat of the sun.
The track is intersected by slides,
which serve for the small sledges,
in which cheeses, hay, &c., are con-
veyed from the upper pastures to the
village of Viesch. Above the forest
the path mounts by gentle slopes
over pastures. The views are not
very striking, but a little to the L
of the path there is a beautiful view
of the grand ranges which circle
round Saas and Zermatt, the most
conspicuous and beautiful object being
the exquisitely-pointed pyramid of
the Dom, the highest summit of the
Saas Grat (Ete. 122). The path
winds round the eastern slopes of
the iBggischhom, and in 2 hrs. from
Viesch the traveller reaches the hoteL

Many excursions may be made
from the ^ggischhorn.

a. The first object of attraction is,
of course, the view from the summit
of the mountain. 1^ hr. easy walk.
This should be seen not once only,
but several times, in order to enjoy
it under different conditions of
colouring and illumination. The
path to the summit has been greatly

improved by the care of M. Wellig,
but the upper part is steep and
slippery, and the top, formed of
huge snattered blocks, with rifts be-
tween, affords but awkward footing.
Unpractised mountaineers should take
a guide, especially after fr^sh snow,
and not disdain his proffered hand, as
slight but disagreeable accidents often
occur.

b. The next object of attraction is
the Mdtjelsn See, 2 hrs. easy walk, a
mule-path is in progress, already de-
scribed. A boat is to be put upon its
waters. This excursion is generallv
combined with a visit to the Aletsck
glacier, which is easy of access, and
in great part free from dangerous
crevasses. It is only after walking
some miles upon its surface that a true
impression can be formed of the vast
extent of this sea of ice.

c A rather longer excursion may
be made by travellers bound for
Brieg, by reaching the Aletsch gla-
cier, either from the Marjelen See,
or descending to it from the summit
of the mountan (a steep slope, re-
quiring caution); then following the
downward slope of the glacier for 3
or 4 m., till opposite to a slight de-
pression in the ridge on its 1. bank.
This is reached without difficulty, and
from thence the descent to Moril, on
the high road from Viesch to Brieg,
by grassy slopes, steep, but not diffi-
cult, and by occasional rocks, is a very
agreeable walk. There is a chalet
inn on the Bieder Alp, where refresh-
ments or beds may be had.

d, A much more considerable expe-
dition is to reach the Monch Sattel, or
depression separating the Monch from
the Jungfrtiu. Hopes, veils, and dark
spectacles should be taken, but there
is no serious difficulty to be encoun-
tered. The distance is considerable
and the walk to and fro, especially if
there be much fresh snow, is a fa-
tiguing one. The contrast afforded
by the view from the summit of the
Col, looking over the Bernese Ober-
land and the plain of Switzerland
after having been so long confined to

Smbs^rland.

BOUTE 28. — GBOtSEL TO BBIBQ.

107

the Polar scenery of the upper part
of the glacier, is said to De rery
stribne. It appears that there is no
possil&^ of descending the preci-
pices TO;h on the farther side face
the Wengem Alp, but 2 different
passages in this direction, from the
Aletsdi glacier to the Bernese Ober-
land, haye been accomplished by
English tniTellers. The first of these
was cffiBCted in Angnst, 1858, by the
BeT. C Hndson, Mr. Birkbeck, and
ACr. Joid, inUi 2 excellent glides,
Melchior Anderegg and Victor Tair-
ra^ of Chamoimi. They ascended
the Aktttk glacier nearly to the base
of tlie Monch, and, following the
braneh which separates the Monoh
from die Tragberg, passed the night
on the snow, nnder a tent, at a height
of abont 11,500 ft. above the sea.
From this point they soon reached on
the following morning the sammit of
the ridge connecting the Monch with
the range called the Yiescher Grat.
From thence the descent to the lower
ghtder of Grindelwald is a work of con-
siderable difficulty and some danger.
The difficulties would probably be
less serious if the pass were made
from the Grindelwald side, but it can-
not be leconunended to ordinary tra-
rellers. The second, and still more
difficult passage^ was accomplished
in 1859, oy the Bev. Ijeslie Stephen
and Mr. Mathews, with Uirich
JMaauBT and 2 Chamouni guides.
"Bi^ ascended from the Wengem
Altfj between the Eiger and the
Hoach, and reached the summit of
the lidge connecting those peaks, after
580cteM had been cut in one ice-slope
by the mrBt-named guide. They were
foreedto pass the night on the upper
^^L^btedi glacier, and reached the hotel
on thsi^gischhom the next day.

The .^gischhom has been the

startiiig-poiiit from whence the 3

highest summits of the Oberland

group We been attained. The Fin-

sterMihom (14,039 £ng. ft.) was

first ascended in 1841, by Herr Sol-

ger, of Basle, with a guide named

J&UBj of Meyringen. The next suc-

cessAil ascent, of which an account

i» giveix in ' Peaks, Passes, and

Gladerty' was eifeoted in 1857, by
the Bey. J. F. Hardy, Messrs. Ken-
nedy, EUis, St John Mathews, and
W. Mathews, all of the University of
Cambridge, with 5 g^des. Several
sucoessfiu ascents have been since
made. The Aletschhom was for the
first time ascended by Mr. F. F.
Tuckett, with (3?) guides, in 1859.
Only of late it has been known that
this peak, which is not visible from
the Bernese Oberland, being wholly
situated in the Valais, is the 2nd
in height of the Alps of Central
Switzerland (13,803 £ng. ft.). The
history of the suotessfuT attempts to
reach the summit of the Jungfr«u has
been already referred to (Rte. 25 c).

[Travellers who have already seen
the Pass of the Simplon inay reach
Domo d'Ossola by the Binnen Thai
and Crodo, in the Val Antigorio
(Bte. 61). Those proceeding to Sion,
or the Baths of lieuk, may take a
route over the Aletsch and Lotsch
glaciers, a day's journey over ice and
snow, but not presenting any serious
difficulty (Bte. 60).

Ordinary travellers will prefer to
return to the high road at Yiesch.]
And thence proceed to

1} m. Laax (Croix Blanche, good).

5 m. MlfriU \lnn: H.^ggiscmiom).

The stream of the Massa, issuing
from the Aletsch Glacier, here joins
the Khone. The volume of its waters
is greater than that of any other
glacier stream in the Alps.

IBel Alp. A good and very popular
Inn has been built on the Bel Alp
(formerly called the Lusgen Alp), one
of the S. spurs of the Aletschhom,
and but a short distance above the
Aletsch Glacier. There is a pleasant
walk to it, often traversed by ladies
in 4^ hrs. (of which ^ hr. is across the
Aletsch Glacier), from the iBggisch-
hom Hotel. It passes by the Chalet
Inn on the Rieder Alp. The Bel Alp
is also reached in 3^ or 4 hrs. from
Briegby a bridle-path ascending from
Naters, as bad as it can be except the
last ^ hr. But the views are exquisite ;
the Matterhorn, Dom, and Weisshorn

108

BiOUTB 31.— HSTANZ TO E^GELBERG.

Sect. I.

all well seen from the Intij which is
ffood and moderate. ExcurBion from
%eBel Alp to the Sparrehorn (other-
wise the Belhom), 3 nrs. up : horses go
two-thirds of the way. View magni-
ficent, like that from the ^ggisch-
hom.]

4 m. Ifaters, a village of 600 Inhab.,
lies in a beautiful situation and in a
milder climate, where the chestnut
begins to flourish. Above it rises the
ruined castle of Auf der Fluh, or
Supersax.

A wooden bridge leads across the
Rhone to the great high road at

1 m. Brieg (/«fi .••H. d' Angleterre,
Post), at the foot of the Simplon (Rt*.
59).

ROUTE 31.

STANZ TO ENOELBEBO. ENGELBEBG TO
ALTORP, BT THE SUBENEK PASS. THE
TITLIS.

From Stanzstad—
Stanz \

Miles. Hrs. Min.
3 — 20
Engelbeiijf "•'•"* *~" ^ 15 4*

AU^rf > footpath -5

car.-road

{

Altorf S

A walk of 12i to 13 hrs. The best
plan is to sleep at Engelberg and cross
the pass next day.

Steamers 4 times daily from Lucerne
to Stanzstad — the port of Stanz — to
which place runs a diligence.

There is a good cnar-road from
Stanz (Rte. 1 9^ to Engelberg U^ hours*
walk; car, 1 horse, 12 fr.; ditto 2, 20
fr.); thence to Altorf, across the pass,
a horse-path. Take a guide.

The road from Stanz to EnJB;elberg
follows the course of the Aa up-
wards, gradually ascending, and pass-
ing Wolfenschiess with its ruined
castle, and

Grafenort, where there is a small
inn. Beyond this the valley con-
tracts, and the rest of the way to
Engelbere is best travelled on foot.
The roaais carried up a steep ascent
nearly 6 m. long, traversing thick
woods, amidst scenery of the highest
sublimity. In the midst of it, in the

depth of the valley, lie the village and
Awey of

Engelberg — {Inns : Hotel and Pen-
sion Miiller, good, clean, and mo-
derate, whey cure; Engel, Titlis) —
3220 ft above the sea. It is hemmed
in on all sides by lofty mountains
topped with snow, and based by pre-
cipices from which, in winter time
and in spring, numerous avalanches
are precipitated. At their base, upon a
verdant slope, contrasting^ agreeably
with rock and snow, the JBenedictine
Abbey rises conspicuous among the
ordinary habitations of the vulage.
It was founded in 1120, and received
from Pope Calixtus IL the name of
Mons Angehnim, from a tradition that
the site of the building was fixed by
angels —

** Wliose aathentie lav.
Sang from that heavenly ground, in middle air,
. Made known the spot where Piety shoold raise
A holy atructoze to th' Almighty's praiae."

Wardtworth.

Having been three times destroyed hy
fire, the existing edifice is not older
than 1729. "The architecture is
plain and unimpressive, but the situ-
ation is worthy of the honours which
the imagination of the mountaineers
has conferred upon it." The convent
is independent of any bishop or
sovereign but the Pope himseu, or
his legate : its revenues, once more
considerable, were seriously dimi-
nished by the Erench, but it still pos«
sesses valuable alpine pastures, and
the cheeses produced on them are
stored in an adjacent warehouse and
cellars. It contains, at present, only
19 brothers: in its large Church are
numerous paintings by Deschwanden
and other artists of the modem S^^viss
sch ooL The Library is of some value,
rich in Swiss early printed books and
illuminated MSS. ; the roof oF the
apartment in which it is placed has
been cracked by an earthquake.
Travellers are received and enter ^
tained in the convent — those of the
poorer classes gratuitously.

The Titlts, the chief of the moun^
tains which overhang this ron&antic
solitude, rises on the S. of the eon-
vent to a height of 7000 ft. abor^

Saxtzerland. • route 31. — ^the surenkn. 32. — ^the susten. 109

ibe TaJley, and 10,690 ft above the

aesrVeTeL Its principal peak is fre-

qxieiilily ascended, bat more easily

from&e inn inr the Engstlen-Thal

(Ete.%) ^an from En?efi)ergi The

iint knr from Engeloer^ can be

aooomjkyied on horses, after which

there is « sharp ascent for an hour

tinosgli woods ; the path then con-

tinmaofer pastures which gradually

becone locra mixed with patches of

snow, ind ^le last hour is over a

snonriidge. The ascent occupies 6

or 7 BOOTS. It is covered with a cap

of sDovor neve, from which numerous

avahoefaes Ml in spring.

The riew is superb. The Susten-

hora, Gtlenstock, Thierberge, Pins-

tenariiorn, Sehreckhomer, and aU the

monDtuns of the Oberland are seen

to perfection. The position of the

mountain is so favourable that the eye

wanders over an almost countless

nofflber of peaks and glaciers.

The Passes of the Storegg and of the

/«K!W(Rte. 19) lead by the Melch-

ttal to Surenen in 5 and 6 hrs. respec-

tiyely.

The Pass of the Joch (see Rte. 33)

leads from Engelberg to Meyringen

into hrs.

Dngelberg to Hours.
Smunit of Surenen ... 4
AtUng^usen . . . . 3^
Altorf *

ftom Engelberg to Altorf, by the

ft» of the Surenen, is a walk of 8

tes. When there is fresh snow on

the pass 9 or 10 hrs. should be al<

loved. When ladies> are of the party

itis letter taken from Engelberg than

6« Altorf, as it is difficult to hire

SMd mountain horses at> the latter

pliee. The footpath reaches, after

*^i9A Sbl, tibe dairy belonging to the

cmuul, called Herrenreuti, where

good dieese is made : 50 cows are

^Mkdied to it : the pastures are re<

f^nAsA by more than 20 springs

-n^Bgupon them. Erom the steep

sides (tf the Hahnenberg, on the

NJg., a beautiful waternll bursts

fotfk, called Datschbach. The path

now winds round the base of a pro-

jeetiog moimtain, beyond which the

vallej makes a bend in a N.E. direc-

tion, and, following the course of the
Aa torrent for about 6 m., crosses it,
and then turns nearly due £. The
Stierenbach, the principal feeder of
the Aa, is now seen aescending in
a pretty cascade into the deep abyss.
Half an hour's walk below the summit
stand a few chalets, and beyond them
the traveller has generally to traverBe
patches of snow, to the summit of the
pass, or Surenen Eck, a narrow ridge
7548 ft. above the sea, not more than
5 ft. wide, between the Blakenstock
on the 1. and the Geissberg on the rt.
During the greater part of the ascent
the Titlis shmes forth an object of the
greatest magnificence, and a long line
of peaks and glaciers extends from it
uninterruptedly to the Surenen. An-
other view now opens out on the oppo-
site side into the valley of Schachen,
bounded in the extreme distance by
the snowy top of the Glamisch in
canton Glarus. On the side of the
Surenen, lying within the limits of
canton Un, uie surface of snow to
be crossed is often greater, and the
descent is steeper. Traversing the
snow, and a desolate tract covered
with broken rocks beyond, the chdlets
of Waldnacht are passed; and then,
by the gorge of Boghy, the path is
conduct^ into the vaUey of the Reuss,
forking off on the rt. to Erstfeld, for
those who wish to ascend the St.
Gothard — and on the 1., crossing the
Reuss, to Attinghausen, for those who
are bound to Altorf.

In 1799 a division of the French
army, under Lecourbe, crossed this
pass with cannon to attack the Aus-
trians in the valley of the Reuss, but
were soon driven back the same way
by the impetuous descent of Suwar-
row from tne St. Gothard.

Altorf (Rte. 34).

ROUTE 32.

PASS OP THE SUSTEN, FROM MEYRTNGFX
OR REICHENBACH TO WASEN.

12 J hrs. 11 hrs.' fast walking.
In J811, when the Yalais

wag

110

ROUTE 32.>--HPAfiS OF THE SUSTEN.

Sect.!.

added by Napoleon to the French
empire, a char-road was constructed
from Meyringen to Stein, and on the
side of canton IJri from Wasen to
Femingen, to enable the inhabitants
of canton Berne to convey their pro-
duce into Italy through the Swiss ter-
ritory. It has fallen out of repair
in many places, and can only be re-
garded as a bridle-path. It is a fine
pass ; the Gadmenthal bein^ very
grand, in parts somewhat luce the
Trosachs, on a grander scale. Charge
for a horse 30 fr., for a guide 10 fr.;
but, as the pass is much frequented, no
guide is required in clear weather. It
enables a stout pedestrian to proceed
in one long day from Meyringen to
Wasen, on the St. Gothard, but the
distance is almost too much, and it is
usual to stop for the night at Stein.
The word Sust means toll or custom-
house, whence the name.

The route of the Grimsel is followed
from Mejnringen as far as Im Hof
(Rte. 26), where, quitting the side of
the Aar, the path rollows the course of
the Gadmen, ascending the valley
called, at its lower extremity, Muhh-
thal, and higher up Nessel-thal. Here
the narrow Triffc-thal opens frt>m the
S., with fine glimpses of the Triften-
stock and gletscher, up which lies a
glacier pass to the Grimsel (Bte. 27 &).
Beyond this the valley is named Gad-
menthal.

The road passes through a fine
grove of venerable sycamores, above
which the TitUs rises superbly, before
you reach in 4i hrs.

Gadmen, (^Inn: Bear, shaded by
sycamores, clean and tolerable.) This
village of 550 Inhab. is 3750 ft above
the sea-level, and is composed of 3
distinct groups of hoiises, Eck, Am-
buhl, and Obermatt, f mile higher
up. The char-road was not carried
further than the chldets of Steinen,
and a portion of it was destroyed a
few years ago by the sudden ad-
vance of the glacier of Steinen, which
30 years ago was more than a mile
distant from it, descending from a val-
ley on the S. The appearance of the
glacier is remarkable, as it assumes a
&n shape at its termination. At the

foot of the Steinen glacier is a clean
little Inn, 7 hrs. are required from
Meyringen to Stein, 5^ descending to
Meyringen. From hence the ascent
of the Sustenhom may be efiected in
6 hrs. The height is 11,5B0 Eng. ft.
From the inn at Stein a steep ascent
of 1^ hour brings the traveller to

The top of the Susten Pass, 7446 ft.
above the level of the Mediterranean.
The view is very fine ; the serrated
ridges, and the many pointed peaks
of the mountains bouncung the May-
enthal, through which the descent
lies, especially arrest the attention.
There is always some snow on tlie
£. declivity of the pass. The first
chalets are met with on the Hunds-
alp. The stream of the Mayen-Beuss,
issuing out of the Susten glacier (rt.),
under the Susten Horn, is crossed
several times, until at the Hauser-
briicke, a considerable distance below
Femigen, the unfinished char-road
again commences. Near Femigen the
deeply eng^fed and foaming Gurez-
mittlerbach is crossed. Lower down
is the village of Mayen, or Meyen, 3
hrs. descending frt>m the top of the pass,
where there is an Inn, not so good as
those at Gadmen or Stein. Most of the
houses in this valley are protected
from the descending avalanches by a
stone dyke, or well-propped palisade
of wood raised on the huf-side behind
them, to turn away the falling snow
from their roofr. "Kear the junction
of the valleys of the Mayen and the
Beuss are shattered remains of an
hexagonal redoubt (schanze), which
was fortified by the Austrians in
1799, and stormed and taken from
them by the French imder Loison,
who forced the enemy back up the
vale of the Beuss, and, after five as-
saults, made himself master of Wasen,
an important point. A very steep
and rou^h road leads in one hour from
Mayen mto the village of

Wasen, on the St. Gothard (Rte.
34). Hours' fast walking /rom Wasen :
5 to the Pass ; | to Stem; 2 to O ad-
men; 2 to Im Hof; 1 to Meyringen
= total, lOf hours.

Switzerland.

ROUTE 33.*— JOGH PA88.

Ill

BODTE 33.

ns JOCH PASS, 7B0M UETRINaEN
TO ENGELBEBQ.

IXitiiioe about 10 hrs. This pass,
thoogh pncticable for horses, and a
gooa deemed, is high and steep. It
is s iw pass, with considerable
Tujetjrcf wenery, commanding beau-
tiful Tiewsof the Titlis. As far as
Im Hof it is the same as Bte. 26.

ThatTiDage is reached in 1^ hr.

from Keyiingen. The road of the

Sostoi is followed for nearly an hour

to the JQction of the torrent from

the Gestel Thai with the Gadmen-

^^^ Anpid ascent follows, till

tbe iMutiires at the lower extremity

of tfie Geatel Thai are reached, in

which k A pure spring, very grateful

i^the hot asoent from Wyler. 'From

^ point the path continues on the

Jt, i^nk of the stream on a rery

gndaal rise for 1^ hour, and then

crossing reaches the lower pastures of

tbe JEngstien Alp. Another ascent of

lib. by a rough path,pardy through

Fae forest, leads to EngsUln Alp Inn

(•boot 6100 ft), capital country inn;

^ tod intdligent landlord, often

<|;wJowing with guests. The posi-

™ i» a very fine one, and the views

«jke adjoining range of the Titlis,

«»flf the Oberland Alps, magni-

^wt Many, excursions may be

fv from nence, but the most

J^irtbg is the ascent of the Titlis.

(Se^^^ 31.) From this convenient

■'■■tiilR-pomt it is not very fatigu-

™&^<Hi has been accomplished by

^^^8w hdies. A practised moun-

JWMarwill easily reach the summit

m 5kaand return in % but it is

*J«l*oiDow ample time to enjoy the

▼lew Ado the top. The landlord wiU

™<* food and cheap guides. Near to

toe Ian is a remarkable intermittent

^^f^i caUed Wunderbrvnnen. It flows

xrois ^ring to autumn, always running

fhnn 8 ajc to about 4 p ji,, when it
ceases.

[An easy and beautiful pass called
the Sattli (little Saddle) leads hence
in 4 hrs. to Gadmen (J hr. extra should
be allowed by those coming from
Gadmen). The path skirts the rocks
at the extremity of the Engstlen See,
and thence ascends gradually to the
summit (1} hr.); the view hence over
the Thierberge, Triftenhom, Susten-
horn, and the glaciers is very fine.
On the Gadmen side the descent is
so steep, that mules would be unable
to pass, but they could go the whole of
the reverse way, i,e, from Gadmen to
theEngstlenAlp. The downward path
takes a direction to the 1. and leaos to
a shepherd's hut (^ hr.). Here 2
roads diverge, one to the L leads to
Obermatt and Stein (Bte. 32), the
other, to the rt, to Gadmen and Im
Hof. The remainder of the descent
is rather less steep and is very pic-
turesque, passing through fir-woods
and over open fields commanding
beautiful views of the valley, &c.]

There are two paths down to
Engelberg, — ^the horse-path, scarcely
nuyrked, fading to the I. of the Triib
See; the other and shorter one, only
practicable on foot, continuing along
a ridge in the direction of Engelberg
for a short distance, and then descend-
ing abruptly on the rt. to a plain, on
which, at ^ m. on the left, is situated
the Triib See, fed by glaciers descend-
ing from the Ochsenberg on the rt.
It is necessary to bear away to the
rt.-hand extremity of this plam, where
there is a gap, from whidi a very
rough and precipitous path, called the
Pfaffenwand, descends for 20 minutes
over grass, and afterwards debris, to
the pastures, crossing which it enters
the forest for ^ hour, and shortly
reaches

Engelberg (Rte. 31).

112

BOUTS 34. — ^PAfiS OF ST. GOTHABD.

Sectl.

ROUTE 34.

THE PABS OP ST. OOTHARD, FROM FLU-
ELEN, OX THE LAKE OF LUCERNE, TO
BELUNKONA.

8^ posts = 70 miles.

Swiss posts. Eng. m.

FItielen to Amsteg . . Ij . .10

Amsteg to Andennatt . 1| . . 14i
Andennatt to St. Gothaid

Pass li . . 11

St Gothard Pass to Airolo { . . 8

AhrolotoFaido . . . l| . . 10

FaidotoBodio ... 1 . . 9

Bodio to Bellinzona . . li . . I3i

These are the true distances: some-
what more is charged by the post-
masters.

Steamers 4 or 5 times a day from
Lucerne, reaching FItielen, and thence
diligences (places in which most be
secured in Lucerne or on board the
steamer) start 2 or 3 times a day for
BeUinzona in 15 hrs., Milan in 25.
By the diligence some of the finest

Sortions of the route are passed in the
ark. From the coupe, wnich contains
8 places, something of the scenery
may be seen ; from the comer places
in the interior, a very little; from the
middle placesj nothing whatever. A
single traveller may sometimes induce
the conducteur to give him his place
outside. The road is very dusty, so
that this is not an unmixed advantage.
There is no banquette.

The innkeepers on both sides of the
pass undertake to forward travellers
in post carriages, and with posthorses,
for ft fixed charge. From FItielen

or Altorf the price of a carriage
and 2 post-horses to Hospenthal is 30
fr., to Airolo 60, to Faido 75, to Bellin-
zona 100, to Magadino 115, to Lugano
125^ and to Como 1 50 fr., not including
the pour-boire of 2 fr. to the postilion
at each stage, or the extra horses for
crossing the mountain. These extras
will amount, to about 25 fr. more for
the entire journey. It will save trouble
to fix the entire amount before st-art-
ing, and obtain a written aereement
from the inkeeper to be shown, at
each stage. The service is well ap-
pointed. Lohnkuischers or vetturtni
abound at Fliielen, and some of them
are |^nerally on board the steamers
looking out for custom. They perform
the whole journey to Como for about
250 fr., indudine all charges, in 3
days, reaching Como on the 3rd, in
time for the last rly. train for AClan.
It is well to have this last point
secured in a written agreement, which
should also stipulate that the driver
is to stop at the inns which the tra-
veller may select. These carriages are
more conuortable than those fiunished
by the postmasters, and will accom-
modate 6 persons.

Pedestrians should drive as far as
Amsteg, where the ascent properly
begdns.

On this pass many rare minerals
are found, and may be purchased
better than in any other part of
Switzerland.

This was anciently perhaps the
most frequented passage over the
Alps, as it offered the most direct and
practicable line of communication be-
tween Basle and Ziirich, from North-
ern Switzerland and W. Germany, to
Lombardy, and the important cities o1
Milan and Genoa. Not less than
16,000 travellers and 9000 horses
crossed it annually on an avera^.
down to the commencement of the
present century; but being only s
bridle-path, it was almost entirely
abandoned after the construction o;
the carriage-roads over the Simploi
and Bemardin. The cantons of XJr
1 aad Te6sin» through which, this

Sakzerkmd.

ROUTE 34.— ST. GOTHARD. FLUELia?.

113

rcmd nms, at length became suffi-
cient^ alive to their own interests to
Tcrceive the necessity of converting it
nto a carria^e-Toad. In consequence,
Kb 1%20 the TTork was begun, and in
l^^inally completed and opened.
*Rke expenses were defrayed by a
JQiBi-fitoi^ company, formed in Uri
sod the neighbouring cantons. ■ The
eoDBtnictioii of the road was intrusted
to m engineer of Altorf^ named

JHUHEf.

Atiftesent the road is excellent,
not inferior in Its construction to any
othff of the great Alpine highways.
In gnodeiir of scenery, especially on
the SwBs side, it may vie With any
Swiss pass. Its points of chief in-
terest are the Gorge of the Schellinen,
I^eriPsftidge, and the Italian scenery
of rugged mountain and rich valleys.
lleiAssage is usually free from
snow for 4 or 5 months of the year ;
and in the depth of winter carriages
are safely transported across on open
sfet^s, except inunediatelv after a
snow-rtorm, when the road is some-
times blocked up for a week. In 1 8 60,
41,000 fr. were spent ill keeping the
road clear of snow. It is still one of
the best routes for Italy.

The canton of Uri and the valley

of tile Beuss possess an historical

odebrity, as the theatre of the me-

nanble campaign of 1799, when the

tnnes of the three nations of France,

Austria, and Bussia, dispossessing

<»A other in turns, marched, fought,

SBd manoenvred, on heights whence

tte«ow never disappears, and pre-

^|MBljr deemed accessible only to

gftifftflds and hunters. In the month

O^Jwe, in the above-named year,

ttAtttrians, aided by the natives of

tfiS^ lid. expelled the French from

liB ulley. Satisfied with the pos-

*5*ftii of it, they passed nearly 2

J'fcill in entire inactivity, when, by

^^Mteed movement, planned by

Ittm, they were attacked at all

ftHitrhy French corps, poured in

u{<j<flem from the lake of Lucerne,

"■^■d'was crossed by a flotilla of

l**llt'aiid from every western passage

ieflibg over the ^ps and into tne

' raHi!^ of the Reuss. Lecourbe crossed

the Surenen, Loison the Snsten, and
Gudin, with a large force, fought his
way over the Grimsel and Furca,
threatening the Austrians in front,
in flank, and in the rear. In an en-
gaorement which took place on the
14th of August, and which lasted 5
hours, they were driven step by step
up the vaUev, as far as Andermatt.
On the two roDowine days the French
pursued them out of the valley of the
Reuss into the Grisons by the Ober-
alp, where a bloody encounter took
place. A little more than a month
after this, intelligence was brought
to Lecourbe, the French commander,
that another large army had appeared
at the S. foot of the St. Gothard.
While stUl at a loss to imagine to
what European power it might be-
long, fresh tidings announced that it
was the veteran Suwarrow, who, at
the head of a Russian army of 18,000
foot and 5000 Cossack horse, had
broken up from his encampment in the
plains of Lombardy, and now began to
force the passage of the St. Gothard.
The French retired slowly but stea-
dily before him as far as the lake of
Lucerne, where Lecourbe, after re-
moving all the boats from Fliielen,
entrenched himself in a strong posi-
tion at Seedorf, on the 1. bank oi the
Reuss. Suwarrow, whose object was
to unite himself with the Russian
army before Ziirich, of the defeat of
which by Mausena he had not yet
heard, here found himself without
the means of transporting his army,
threatened on all sides by enemies.
He took little time to consider, but
immediately planned and executed
his wonderful and almost incredible
retreat over the Kinzig Kulm and into
the valley of Muotta; and though con-
stantly annoyed by the French in his
rear, finally conducted his army into
the valley of the Rhine, with a loss of
3000 men, of whom far more perished
from cold, fatigue, and hunger, than
from the enemies' bullets, (bee Rtes.
73, 75.)

Fliielen — (Italian Fiora — Inns: Ad-
ler, Croix Blanche, both opposite the

114

ROUTE 34 — ^ALTOfiF. WILLIAM TELL.

Sect. I.

steamboat pier)— the port of canton
(Jri, at the S. extremity of the lake of
the Four Cantons, is a small village in a
not very healthy situation. The ma-
laria from the marshy ground pro-
duced by the deposits of the Beuss at
its entrance into the lake has been
abated by means of works undertaken
on a large scale to deepen the mouth
of the Beuss, and thus curam the upper
country. Conveyances and Post-horses
may always be had here.

The Steamer touches here fiye times
a day from Lucerne, and returns after
a short stay; it takes carriages. (See
Bte. 18.) A pier, alongside of which
the steamers are moorec^ offers a con-
venient landing-place. About 2 m.
off lies

li m. Altorf-^Inns : Adler, good;
Schlussel (Clef d*Or), civil people;
Bar; Lowe; Krone; Aigle, good. This
is the capital of the canton Uri,
the poorest and least populous in
the Confederation, numbering alto-
gether only 13,500 souls: it is a dull,
ufeless village of 2426 Inhab., without
trade or manufactures, and still exhi-
biting signs of the conflagration of
1799, which reduced the larger part
of it to ashes. It was the eaoSy home
of the great Guelph family, and, if
credit is to be given to tradition, it
was on the open square in the centre
of Altorf that William Tell shot the
apple from off his son's head. The
place where he stood to take aim
IS marked by a plaster statue of Tell(l\
a gift of the riflemen of Zurich. The
lime-tree, upon which Gessler's cap
was stuck, for all men to do obeisance
to it as they passed, and to which the
child was bound, to serve as a mark
for his father's bolt, existed a withered
trunk, down to 1567, when it was cut
down and replaced by a fountain.

The tall Tower, ornamented with
rude frescoes, representing Tell and
Gessler, has been stated erroneously
by some writers to occupy the site of
the lime-tree; but it is proved by re-
cords still in existence to have oeen
built before the time of TeU.

On quitting Altorf the road crosses
the mouth ^ tfoo vale of ^haohen.

traversing, by a bridge, the stream in
which, accormng to tradition, William
Tell lost his l&e (1350) in endea-
vouring to rescue a child frt)m the
waterfall of Biirglen. He plunged io,
and neither he nor the child was seen
after. Tell was a native of the Schach-
enthal, having been bom in the village
of Biirglen {Inn and Pension, William
Tell, much resorted to, in a delight-
ful site), a little to the 1. of our road.
The small Chapel^ backed by an ivy-
clad tower, rudely painted with tne
events of his life, was built in 1522 on
the spot where his house stood, near
the churchyard. The inhabitants of
this valley are considered the finest
race of men in Switzerland. A path
runs up it, and across the Klausen
Pass (Bte. 76) to the baths of Stach-
elberg, in canton Glarus, and another
over the Eanzig Kulm (Bte. 75), into
the Muotta Thai.

On the L bank of the Beuss, op-
posite its junction with the Schachen,
stands Attinghausen, the birthplace
of Walter JFurst, one of the three
liberators of Switzerland: his house
is still pointed out Above it rise the
ruins of a castle, whose baronial
owners became extinct in 1357, when
the last of the race was buried in his
helmet and hauberk. At

BStzlingen, 3 m. above Altorf the
parliament (Landesgemeinde) of can-
ton Uri is held on the first Sunday
in May, to settle the affidrs of the
state. Every male citizen above the
age of 20, except a priest, has a vote.
Tne authorities of the canton, on
horseback, with the Landammann at
their head, preceded by a detachment
of militia, with military music, and
the standard of the canton attended
by the beadles in their costume
of yellow and black, and by two
men in the ancient Swiss ^rb of
the same colour, bearing aloft the
two bull's horns of IJri, march to
the spot in procession. From a semi-
circular hustings, erected for the pur»
pose, the business of the day is prcH
claimed to the assembled crowd, and
the different speakers deliver theiir
harangues, after which the question
is put to the vote by show of hamii.

Switzerland,

BOUTE 34 — AXSTEG. WAfiEN.

115

WbeD &U affiurs of state are de-

ipatched, the Tiandammann and other

{nUic ofBcera resign, and are either

nieiected or others are chosen in

Mt place. It is possible that altera-

IknsWe been made in these things,

imda the great political changes

'wludiUre rec^ently taken place in

Sidtiol«d.

•AfivlttTing Altorf the road passes

tluDoi^prettj meadows shaded with

fine nlot^ees as far as Amsteg.

I liseiife rocky wall of the Wind^elle,

a CQBtiBiition of the Klariden-Grat,

sad Sfbeerhorau A flat surface on

the "ptB^ returns a Tery distinct

echa A little way from Elus, a viX-

lage ]iaif.v2y to Amsteg, the wild

^^ of the Surenen opens rt (Bte.

31). At Sins the road approaches

the oaigiii of the Reuss, and beyond,

at the kolet of Silinen, it is partly

cut throng^ the rock, passes under the

nuns of a tower, by some supposed to

be tbecas^ of Zwing Vri (iSestraint

of Bn^ the construction of which by

the tjiuA Gessler, to oyerawe the

F^^ roused the suspicion and in-

ojgBatioii of the Swiss; so that it was

wlishedby them in 1308, on the first

outbreak of the reyolt against Austria.

Sim. Amsteg (Inns : *Croix Blanche ;

Bnchfgood country inn; Stem), de-

li^^tfoH^ situated, and although not a

pnkitetion, it isa conyenient place for

time to stop at who cross the lake by

^ifternoon steamer from Lucerne.

^Unibat the mouth of the Maderaner

^XwtUen Thai, which stretches E.

» Ik as the base of the Clariden

Gn^ $ TftUe^ little yisited, but well

vorthcniorinff; abounding in water-

^wi Jn glaciers, and magnificent

pOMiints. [A track leads to Disentis

over 4» Kreuzli.Fass (see Bte. 83),

^ tt ice-path oyer the Clariden

Gntli&achelberg ; Si hrs. to chalets

of WaUibiJin in the Maderaner Thai,

31hi&ipa faint track high above 1.

of fltt Glacier, to where the ice is

ta&c% 8} h. to the Grat ; 8 hours,

fmhil^l stoppages, by a circuitous

]X)Olii(intich might be shortened by

ercmaag the Grat under the Catscha-

nab sod descending by the Sand

Sim), to Sand Alp ohAleta, After
this, 3 hrs. to Stachelberg. Guides,
Ch. Aylmer, F. Peru, and M. Ander-
matten. — Alp. Joum.^ iiL 134. N.B.
An inn is opened in the Maderaner
Thai, near the foot of the Htifi
Glacier.]

At the bridge of Amsteg the road
first crosses the Beuss and now begins
to ascend, having on the L hand
the river below, in a deep channel,
dashing from rock to rock in an
almost uninterrupted cataract, and
above the huge mass of the Briaten^
stock, rising m tiers of almost per-
pendicular precipices.

Inischu A second bridge carries it
back to the rt. bank ; ana, after tra-
versing a wood, a third, called Ffaffen-
sprung (priest's leap), from a fable
of a monk having leaped across it
with a maiden in his arms, brings the
traveller to the torrent Mayenbach,
descending firom the Susten Pass (Bte.
32), which joins the Beuss imme-
diately below.

8 m. Waaen (Inns: H. des Alpes;
Ochs, hxrX a village of 550 Inhab., on
the 1. bank of the Keuss, at the mouth
of the Mayenthal. Winding from side
to side, the road slowly toils upward to

4m. Odscfienen,'wheTe a narrow valley
opens to the W., through which the
torrent of the Gdschenen Setias descends
from the glaciers of the Galenstock.
Here the main valley assumes a
more savage character, contracting
into the narrow ravine of Schollinen,
bounded for nearly 3 m. by impending
cliffs of granite. One vast fragment,
skirted by the road, was dropped
here, according to the popular legend,
by the devil, and is thence called
Teufelstcin, This defile is a scene of
desolation and awful g^randeur; the
walls of rock seem almost to exclude
the light of day, scarce a blade of

grass is to be seen, and nothing
card but the wUd dashing of the
Beuss at the foot of the precipice
below the road, from which hoarse
isounds this part of the vaUey gets the
name of KrachenthaL The road
hereabouts is much exposed in spring

116

Roui'E 34. — devil's bridge.

Sect. I.

to danger from avalanches. Here and
there niches are cut in the rock to
shelter passers, and a part of the road
is roofed by a stone gallery. The re-
mains of the former road are seen on
the opposite side of the valley. The
difficulties of the ascent are next over-
come by the skill of the engineer, who
has constructed a series of complicated
zigzag terraces, first on one side of the
Reuss and then on the other, by means
of which, and of numerous bridges,
the traveller at length reaches

The DeviVs Bridge^ situated in the
midst of the most stem but magni-
ficent scenery of the whole piUs. The
Reuss leaps down into the head of this
savage gorge in a lofty cataract, and
in the very midst of its din and spray.
Very precipitous rocks of granite,
remarkable for the stem nake£iess of
their surface, hem in the bed of the
river on both sides; those on the left
bank leaving not an inch of space for
the sole of a foot at their base, except
what has been hewn out of it by
human art. For ages this must have
been a complete cul-de-sac, until^ by
human ingenuity, the torrent was
bridged and the rock bored through.
The old bridee, a thin segment of a
circle, spanmng a terrific abyss, had
originally an air at once of boldness
and fragility, much of which it has
lost by the contrast with the towering
and more solid structure that has now
entirely superseded it, and seems, as it
were, to domineer over it. The single
arch of slight masonry, suspended in
the air at a height of 70 ft above
the Heuss, vdth scarce a parapet at
the side, and with barely breadth to
allow two persons to pass, almost
seemed to tremble with the rushing
of the torrent under the feet of the
traveller. Modem improvements have
deprived the bridge and its vicinity of
much of its terror and sublimity. A
commodious and gradually sloping ter-
race, hewn out of the solid rocK at the
foot of the precipice, leads to the broad
and massive new bridge, which, though
nearer to the fall than the old, may oe
passed without the slightest emotion
of the nerves, thanks to its solidity

and high parapets. It is of granite;
the arch 25 ft span: it was finished
1830. The construction of this nart
of the road presented great difficulties
to the engineer from tne hardness and
smoothness of the precipitous rocks
and the want of easy access to them:
indeed, the mines necessary for blast-
ing the gpranite could only be formed
by workmen suspended by ropes from
above, and dangling in the air like
spiders at the end of their threads.
The ancient bridge was first founded :
by Abbot Gerald, of Einsiedeln, in
1118, so that, in the naming of it, the
devil has received more than his due:
it has been allowed to remain beneath
the new bridge, though no longer of
any use. During the extraordinary
campaign of 1799, the Devil's Bridge
and the defile of the Schellinen were
twice obstinately contested within the
space of little more than a month. O n
the 14th of August the united French
column, under Lecourbe and Loison,
having surprised the Austrians, drore
them up tne valley of the Reuss, as
far as this bridge, which, having been
converted into an entrenched position,
was defended by them for some time.
The ancient Devil's Bridge was ap-
proached from . the lower part of tne
valley by a terrace abutting against
the precipice, interrupted in one place
by a chasm. The road was continued
over this upon an arch of masonry
which supported a sort of cause-
way. At last even this was car-
ried by the French, who, in their im-
petuous pursuit, followed their ene<
mies across this arch. In a moment
while a crowd of combatants '«rew
upon it, it was blown into the air, an^
hundreds were precipitated into tlw
abyss below. During the night t&<
Austrians, alarmed by the appearano
of another French force in their ^reai
evacuated altogether the valley of fli<
Reuss. On the 24th of the foUovtrini
September the tide of war toolc ai
opposite turn. Suwarrow, poiirin(
down from the summit of the Sf
Gothard, at the head of 50OO Iiotb
and 18,000 foot, compelled the French
in their turn, to retire before hiw
The progress of the Russians was flr

Switzerland. route 34.— urnehloch. andermatt.

117

Tested here for a short time, as they
bund the road broken up, the Urner-
iQch filled with rocks, and the passage
4oim the Talley interrupted dv the
SB in the causeway beyond the
bnii^ caused by the blowing up of
tili^H^ A niurderous fire from the
^Sj!a&. swept away all who ap-
S^roii^ iii^, edge, of th^ chasm ; but
tik; 3aiB«n columns, eager for ad;
vu|Be^)ij their pressure pushed th^
foranottxaiiks iAto the foaming Beuss.
The Japediments in the road were
soon ranoTed ; an extemporaneous
arch VI8 constructed by binding
togeUier beams of wood with officers'
sc3u£i; and over this the Bussian
anny pused, pjcf^suing iJ^e^ enemy as
far«JUtdorf. This is tbe picturesque
verrioBof these actions in some modem
histories; the truth, however, seems
to betbt the bridge (as its venerable
appearance testifies) was not blown
op, bot that one of the arches leading
to it was destroyed ; and the Aus-
tnans took up so strong a position,
that the ^French were unable to force
the pass, and waited a day or two till
tiiey had sent troops over the moun-
tains, threatening the flanks and rear
of the Austrians, who then retreated.
Nearly the same thing took place
irken the Bussians advanced ; in fact,
ihijie passes were never forced if
Imnluy defended, but the attacking
JBtf were always obliged to. avau
^nuelves of their superior numbers
nl torn the passes, coming down
<^ file flanks and rear of the enemy
(itf»^^.26). For correct accounts
,^1^. extraordinary actions among
W0K Bkoiintains^ only ti'omini, the
^SS^ historian,, can be relied on.

^iaediatel^ above, ailer passing

At]Pqril's Bridge, the road is carried

^IR«|^ a tunnel, bored for 180 feet

te|^ the solid rock, called

4. Sir. JJmerlochy or Hole of UrL

J».5 180 ft. long, 15 ft. high, and

yfi^ broad. Previous to its con-

fita^kaky in 1707, the only mode of

J^^lg the, buttress of rock which

•#fr projects mtfq the river, so

,m to deny 9A passage, was by a

]iirU^9» or tfyeli of boards, suspended

OIL we ,o1l^i4c| fty .<^ains from above.

By means of this the traveller doubled,
us it were, the shoulder of the moun-
tain, enveloped in the spray of the
torrent, within a few feet of which the
frail structure was hung. The Gallery
of Uri was originally constructed by
a Swiss engineer named Moretini ; but
was only passable for mules, until, in
reconstructing, the St. Gothard road,
it was enlars;ed to admit carriages.

Out of this gallery the traveller
emerges into the wide basin-shaped
pastoral valley of Urseren, which, in
contrast with the savage gorge of
Schellinen, and from the suddenness
of the transition, has obtained from
inost travellers the praise of beauty
and fertility. ^Taken by itself, how-
ever, it has little but its verdure to
recommend it : owine to its great
height, 4356 ft above Sie sea^ scarcely
any trees grow in it, and the inha-
bitants supply themselves with com
for bread from more fortunate lands.
The lower part of it was probably
once a lake, until a passage was
opened for the Beuss through the
rocks of Schellinen. It was ori-
ginally colonised, it is supposed, by
the Bnaetians. The usual entrance to
it was by the pass of the Oberalp.
Its inhabitants spoke the language
of the Grisons, and the valley was a
dependence of the abbot of iJisentis.
Down to the 14th century it remained
closed up at its lower extremity, and
had no direct communication with the
lower valley of the Beuss. About
that time, however, a path seems to
have been opened ; and the men of
Urseren, allying themselves with those
of Uri, threw off the yoke of their
former feudal lords. A mile from the
gallery of Uri lies

1 m. Andei'^matt, or Urseren (Ital. Or-
sera)— {Inns : Drei Koni^ (Poste) ;
H. du St. Gothard, especitdly good and
moderate, Dr. Christin is the host).
It is a village of 600 Inhab., and
the chief place of the valley, 4450
feet above the sea-level ; 20 min.
walk from the Devil's Bridge. The
honey and cheese made on the sur-
rounding pastures are excellent; and
the red .trout of the Oberalp See
enjoy the reputation, with hungry

118

ROITTE 34. — ^VALB OF URSEREN. HOSPEITTHAL. Sect* L

travellers, of being the finest in the
world. They are at least an e^ccellent
dish, either at breakfiut or dinner. The
Church of St. Oolumbanus is said to have
been buUt by the Lombards On the
slope of the mountain of St Anne,
which is snrmoiinted by a glacier,
above the village^ are the scanty re*
mains of a forest, the last relic of that
which perhaps at one time clothed the
sides of the valley entirely. " It is of a
triangular form, with one of its angles
pointed upwards ; and is so placed as
not only to break the fall of heavy
bodies of snow, but to divide the
masses, throwing them off on its two
sides. It is now a slight and seem-
ingly a perishable defence." The im-
providence of the inhabitants, at an
early period, had reduced it to a
small grove, T^hich those of later
times had learned to value for the pro-
tection it afforded to their dweUmgs
from feJling avalanches. They there-
fore yarded it with the utmost care,
abstaming f^om cutting down a stem
of it ; but, in 1799, foreign invaders,
reckless of the consequences, felled a
ereat part of it, and consumed it for
firewood, or to repair the Devil's
Bridge.

A carriage-road stretches up the
steep later^ valley behind Ander-
matt, across the Oberalp to Disentis,
on the Rhine, and Coire, in the
Orisons. (Bte. 82.)

The vale of Urseren is about 9 m.
lone, and nearly 1 broad. It contains
4 vSlaees, and 1360 Inhab., who gain
a subsistence by rearing cattle and
keeping dairies, and by forwarding
the transit of goods across the St
Oothard,for which purpose 300 horses
are kept in it At Andermatt, Hos-

Sital, and Airolo, are many mineral-
ealers, from whom specimens may
be purchased of the numerous rare
and valuable minerals with which
the range of the St Oothard abounds.
The variety of species is surprising,
and the cabinet of the mineralogist
derives some of the rarest substances
firom these Alps.

On the L of the road, in going to
Hdpital, two rude stone pil£irs may
be, or lately might have been, seen ;

they are the potence or G;aIlows be*
lon^g to Andermatt) dating froc^
the time when the valley of U rseresi
was an independent state, and An*
dermatt, the chief place in it, enjoyedt
the right of criminal jurisdiction
now removed to Altdor£ Theposs "'
sion of a gallows, and the right
hanging criminals thereon, was

obiect of pride in ancient times. Sui .

relics virere once found throughot^'
Switzerland: they seem everywheM
to have been preserved ^bnost with
veneration, and were kept in constant
repair, though destined never more
to be used.

2 m. above Andermatt is

Bdspenthal,OT SSpital — Irms: *Mey-
erhof, excellent; pension during the
summer ; guides, horses, and carriae^es
found here; — Ooldener Ldwe (Golden
Lion), very good. Excellent honey
and trout, and horses and good car-
riages. Though not a post-station,
this is a preferable stopping place to
Andermatt

Hospenthal receives its name from
an hospice which no longer exists.
Above the viUage rises a venerable
tower, said to be, like the church of
Andermatt, a work of the Lombards.

[The carriage-road over the Furca
(Ete. 26) leads hence to the glacier
of the Rhone, and the hospice of the
GrimseL It is a continuation of the
road over the Oberalp to Disentis.}

The St Gothard road now quits
the vaUey of Urseren, and, fi>Uowing
the course of the Reuss, beg^s to
ascend by numerous zigzags to tihe
summit of the St Gothanl, which
may be reached in about 2^ hours
from Hospenthal, walking.

Under the nanie of St Gothard are
comprised, not merely die depression,
or col, over which the road passes, but
a group or clump of mountains, aE
exceeding in elevation the snow-line,
situated between the cantons of Uri,
Valais, Ticino, and Grisons; and con-
taining the sources of the Rhine, the
Rhone, the Reuss, and the Ticino, all
of which, withinnnmerable tributaries.

Smtzerhnd. boute 34 — ^pass op st. gothard. hospice.

119

rise within a circle of 10 miles, de-

teried from the suminit of the Pass.

The river Beuss may be said to fall,

nttfif than flow, into the lake of the

Ifw Cantons. Between Urseron and

f^ it descends 3000 feet, and be-

MUiseren and the top of the Pass

«nWiore,fonning a snecession of cata-

,9^ Hear die summit of the Pass,

;^ni crosses it for the last time by

wliHin of Bodunt, which marks

w^BBttary of the cantons Uri and

f^ The source of the Beuss is

mibsBilllake of liucendro, a short

JftMce on the right of the road.

Thftaanmit of the Pass (6808 feet

aboTeihesea) is a valley, or saddle-

sjupeddepression, in the great granite

jj^ofmecentrul chain, ovenooked

by mn-^ peaks varying between

8000 and 10,000 feet in height It is

a Moeof the most complete sterility

anddesdaiion: the road winds among

w?eral oflier small lakes or ponds,

MOW of which flow N., but the greater

J»rt»e feeders of the Ticino, on the

S^fflde of the Pass. They may, in-

*^ he r^arded as the head- waters

wthatriyer, which gives its name to

»e canton Tessin, or Ticino. A few

1|anntes' valk below the sunamit is

™e?orf-^g^ 3jid close to it the

^a». So^pice, a massive and roomy
y^j constructed at the expense
*^ canton Ticino, which has also
JJjd several houses of refuge to
Jjjjfltj is designed for the accom-
"*™i of travellers, being fitted
^lOQghly as an inn, containing
^^ under the management of
*Jp8t Attached to it are ware-
yji* for goods. From Oct. 1,
^^^ 1» 1861, 14,693 poor tra-
'J'^iwere entertained at the hospice
» »J« of 12,066 fr. A very humble
•^^^ and a chapel have existed
^ws spot ever since the 13th cen-
51tj*"^ their origin to the Abbot
Jf '?>entis, who stationed a monk

^ to minister to the spiritual as
!•« 18 physical wants of distressed
Pjeflers. In the 17th century St.
Wbio Borromeo suggested the con-
•'^stion of a hospice on a larger
■*««, which, after his death, was exe-

cuted by his brother. This building
was swept away in 1775 by an ava-
lanche : another, which succeeded it,
was gutted b^ the French, while en-
camped on this spot in 1799-1800, and
every particle oi wood burnt as fiieL
This older hospice, however, is still
kept up. It was until lately the only
house for the reception of travellers
on the summit. Tnere is an Inn, of
a humble kind, close to the road.

The passage in winter and spring is
by no means free from dan^^r: the
snow is sometimes heaped up m drifts
40 feet high on the summit, and the
descent towards Airolo is much ex-
posed at times to tourmentes and ava-
Lmches (§ 17). Although communi-
cation across the pass is seldom in-
terrupted for more than a day or
two at a time, ladies or deUcate
persons should not attempt the pas-
sage except during the summer or
autumn. A year seldom passes with-
out the loss of 3 or 4 hves, and at
times melancholy catastrophes have
occurred. The spot called Buco dei
Calanchetti is so named from a party
of glaziers from the Val Calanca,
who, persisting in pushing on from
the hospice, in spite of the warnings
of the inmates, were buried here be-
neath the snow. In 1478 an avalanche
swept away a troop of 60 Swiss sol-
diers ; in 1624 another, which fell
from the Cassadra, buried 300 per-
sons ; and one in 1814 overwhelmed
40 horses laden veith goods. The
new line of road is carried as much as

Sossible out of the course of these
angers, and, though it is unprotected
by any covered galleries, accidents of
this kmd are more rare.

The descent towards Italy displays
much skilful engineering; and the
difficulties of a slope, much steeper on
this side than on tne other, have been
overcome by a series of 28 zigzag
terraces not exceeded in numbers and
tortuous direction on any other Alpine
pass. They begin a little beyond the
hospice, and continue nearly all the
way to Airolo. The turnings are less
sharp than on many other passes ;
and a carriage drawn by horses accus-
tomed to the work may trot dovm at

120

ROUTE 34. — ^AIROLO. DAZIO GRANDE.

Sect. I.

a quick pace. Near the uppermost
zigzag the words Suwarrow Victor^ in
large letters on the face of the rock,
record the success of the Russians in
gaining the Pass from the French in
1799. It was on this ascent that the
Kussian grenadiers were for some
time arrested ty the fire of the French
riflemen posted behind rocks and
trees. The a^ed Suwarrow, indignant
at being foiled for the first time in his
life, caused a grave to be dug, and,
lying down in it, declared his reso-
lution to be buried on the spot where
" his children " had been repulsed.
This appeal was responded to by his
soldiers with warmth, and, when he
ouce more put himself at their head,
they drove the republicans from their
position. The gully down which the
road passes is called Val Tremola
(Germ. Triimmeln Thai), Trembling
Valley, from its supposed effect on
the nerves of those who passed it.
Since the new road has been made, its
terrors, whatever they were previously,
have been much softened. It is, how-
ever, exposed to some danger from
avalanches in spring. A very pretty
mineral, named from this locality,
where it was first found, Tremolite,
abounds in the rock of the valley, and
specimens of it occur even in the waUs
and loose stones at the road-side.
The old road lay along the 1. bank of
the Ticino ; the new keeps on the rt.
side of it, and before reaching Airolo
makes many v^de sweeps along the
flank of the mountain, irp into the
Val Bedretto, traversing the forest of
Piotella, where the slate rocks are fiill
of crystals of garnet. The view up
and down the vale of the Ticino and
over the mountains on the opposite
side of it is extremely fine.

8 m. Airolo (Germ. Eriels) — Inns:
Post, best; Tre Re, good. Airolo lies
on the 1. bank of the Tessin, near
the junction of the branch flowing
out of the Val Bedretto v«dth that
rising on the St. Gothard. It is 3871
feet above the sea-level, and its inha-
bitants, both in habit and language,
are Italian. The situation at the foot
of St. Gothard, and the consequent

transit of travellers and goods, are its
chief sources of prosperity. It pos-
sesses a relic of antiquity: the stump
of a tower called // Castelio, and Casa
dei Pa^ani, built, it is said, by Desi-
derius King of the Lombards, a.d. 774.
The Lombard kings constructed a line
of similar forts from this aU the way to
Como, many of which will be passed by
the traveller in descending the valley.

The summit of the Pass may be
reached from Airolo by a light carriage
in 2^ or 3 hrs.; a leader must be taken
up to the Hospice = 1^ post is
charged ; by means of the old road
and short cuts a pedestrian may
ascend, and even descend, in less time
than a carriage.

[Several mule-paths meet at Ai-
rolo. 1. Up the Val Bedretto to the
Nufenen Pass (Bte. 63): 2. By the
Uomo Pass into the Grisons (Rte. 84) :
3. Into the Val Formazza by Hospital
all'Acqua (see Rte. 62): 4. A sum-
mer path, and difficult, ascending by
the N.W. side of the Val Canaria, past
the beautiful waterfall of Calcaccia ( ?),
and over the Nera Pass to Andermatt.
The head of the Val Canaria is occu-
pied by a small lake; the scenery is
wild and rugs^d; and the pass, over
which there is no defined track, is
both steep and difficult.]

At the mouth of the picturesque
glen of Stalvedro is a Lonibard tower
of King Desiderius, near Quinto.
This pass was defended Sept 1799, by
a body of 600 French, against 3000
grenadiers of Suwarrow's army for
12 hrs., after which they effected their
retreat over the Niifenen into the
Valais. The part of the vallev of
the Ticino traversed by the road from
this to Biasca is called Val Leventiwi
— Livinen 17ial in Germ. A few miles
lower down the river threads another
defile, named after atoll-house within it

Dazio GrandCf — a rent in the Monte
Piottino (Platifer), nearly a mile long,
and one of the most picturesque scenes
on the whole route. The old carriage-
road threaded the depths of the gorg^
supported for a great part of the ivay
on arches and terraces, and crossing
the river thrice on bridges. During
the storms of 1834 and of 1839, the

Switzerland, eoute 34. — ^pass of sr. gothakd. giornico. bodio. 121

swollen Ticino swept away nearly the

I whole of these costly constructions.

' Anew line is now constructed at a

liigher level above the river, out of the

I meh of inundations, to replace that

nUch has been destroyed ; — a proof

olliie immense difficulty of maintain-

isietToad over, the Alps. The descent

ttWrapid than the old line; it passes

i> shnt tunnels. On emerging from

t^Klastof these a waterfall is seen on

tbe It resembling that (now defunct)

of tbe Pelerins near Chamouni, — a

shoQ(«f water projected forwards and

npivanU.

Cbestnut-trees first appear soon
'^ qnitting the defile of Dazio, and
vines ue cnm vated at

-- {Inns : Angelo, good ; —
Sole)— the principal place in the val-
ley, » smaQ town of 615 Inhab.

There is a pretty waterfall of the
I^tmegna opposite !Faido, worth visit-
ing, especially the upper fall, a short
Twk from the inn.

A revolt of the people of the Val
I«Tentina, in 1755, against their ty-
nnnical lords and masters the cow-
herds of TJri, to whom they had been
subject since the 15th century, was
terminated on this spot by the execu-
tion of the ringleaders, whose heads
vere &stened to the trunks of the
diestnut-trees, in the presence of
3000 men of the valley. The troops
cCthe Confederation had previous^
nnoimded and disarmed this ill-
«toed band of rebels, and afterwards
cofdled them, on bended knees, to
Wfciotmercy. The revolt was, perhaps,
"W* to be justified ; but one thin? at
^SMtis certain, that the freedom which
^ileoi the boast of the Swiss repub-
** down to the end of the last

denied by them to the states
It on them, who groaned under
je more intolerable than that
of i^ monarchical despotism!

Aibotpath runs from Faido over
Aelnionanier (Ete. 85) to Bisentis.
^IliODgh a highly cultivated tract
^iKMd reaches another fine defile
Mf of chestnut-trees.

Giomico (Grerm. InUs : Iims^ H. du
€rer( clean; La Coroaa, dirty), a

village of 700 Inhab. A high tower:
the Ch. of Santa Maria di Castello^
whose substructure is said to exhi-
bit traces of a fort, attributed to
the Gauls (?); and the Ch. of San
Nicholas da Mira, regarded by the
vulgar as originally a neathen temple.
The architecture is of the rudest Bo-
manesque stvle, and the £. end offers
an unaltered specimen of the choir
raised upon substructions that can
hardly be called a crypt. Both
these churches are certainly examples
of the earliest form of Christian build-
ings, and highly deserve the atten-
tion of the architect and antiquary.
The number and height of the
church-towers on the side of the
Alps, even on spots where wealth
and population appear most scanty,
are among the most striking features
of this country. Instead of being sur-
mounted by spires, as in the IU>man
Catholic valleys of the neighbouring
Grisons, they are here piled story upon
story in the Italian fasnion, sometimes
reaching even to an eighth tier, and
ending m a ridge roof.
Hamvay to

Bodio {Inn: Post), a heap of large
rocks (SasslGrossi) serves as a monu-
ment of the victory gained here in 1-478
over ihe Milanese by the Swiss, who
had made aforay across the St. Gothard
as far as Bellinzona, under pretext of
redressing the injury done by the
Milanese, in having felled some trees
belonging to canton Uri. The winter
had set in with severity, and the main
body of the Swiss had returned across
the pass with their plunder, leaving
behind only about 600 men under
Captains Stranga of Giornico, and
Troger of Uri. The Milanese, 15,000
strong, pressed forward to expel the
highland invaders, who, resorting to
stratagem to counteract the prepon-
derance of numbers, laid the fiat land
in this part of the valley uuder water,
and, placing themselves behind it,
awaited then: enemies at the foot of
some rocks. In the course of the
night the water froze hard, and next
morning, while the advance of the
Italians across the ice was naturally

122

EOUTE 34. — BIASCA. BELLIN2iONA.

Sect L

slow and faltering, the Swiss, accus-
tomed to cross tneir native glaciers,
rushed down upon them in a furious
charge, and at once put them to the
rout. Their confusion was increased
by vast masses of rock hurled from
the cliffs above by parties stationed
for the purpose, and the slaughter was
enormous. According to some accounts
1400, according to others 4000, of the
Milanese fell on this occasion.

The Yal Leventina terminates a
little beyond Polleeio, at the junction
of the filegno. After crossing that
river the traveller reaches

Biasca (^Inn: Union, poor and
slovenly), which also contains a very
ancient church, situated on the slope
of the hilL A chain of chapels, or
Via Crucis, leads from it up to the
Chapel of St. Petronilla, whence there
is a pleasing view.

Diligence daily to Olivone, on the
way to the Lukmanier Pass, Rte.
85.

1} m. from Biasca our road falls into
that from the pass of the Bemardin
(Rte. 91).

Below the junction of the rivers
Moesa and Ticino stands ArbedOf
memorable in history for the severe
defeat which the Swiss sustained
here from the Milanese, commanded
by the celebrated generals Delia Per-
gola and Carmagnola, in 1422. Near
the Church of St. Paul, called Chiesa
KossA, from its red colour, 2000 Swiss
lie buried under 3 large mounds, still
distinguishable. Defeat was at that
period so unusual to the Swiss, even
from a greatly superior force, that
they retired across the Alps abashed
and discouraged.

The distant aspect of Bellinzona,
surrounded by battlemented walls,
which once stretched quite across
the valley, and overhung by no less
than 3 feudal castles, is exceedingly
imposing and picturesque. It looks
as though it still commanded, as it
once did, the passage of the valley.
The luxuriance of vegetation, and
the magnificent forms of the moan-

tains around, complete the grandeur
of the picture.

Bellinzona (Germ. BeUenz). — Inns:
Angelo, clean and good ; Hdtel de
YiUe, very fair and reasonable.

Bellinzona, situated on the L bank
of the Ticino, here restrained by a
long stone dam (Tondo Bipario), and
crossed by a bridge of 14 arches, con-
tains 2361 Inhab., and is one of the
3 chief towns of the canton Tessin,
and becomes the seat of government
alternately with Luffano and Locarno,
for 6 years togewer. Within, it
has all the character of an Italian
town in its narrow and dirty streets,
and in the arcades which run under
its houses. It stretches across the
valley to the river, so that the
only passage up or down lies
through its gates. It is stOl a place
of commercial importance as an entre-
pot for the merchandise of Germany
and Italy — situated as it is at the
union of 4 roads — from the St.
Gothard, the Bemardin, from Lu-

fano, and from Locarno, on the Lago
[aggiore. It is of still greater
military consequence, as the kejr of
the passage from Lombardy into
Germany, and has been strength-
ened by modem fortificiettions. It be-
came the fruitfril cause of intrigue,
contest, and bloodshed, between the
crafty Italians and the encroaching
Swiss. The latter first obtained pos-
session of it, and of the Yal Leven-
tina, by a nominal bargain of 2400
florins paid to the lord of Misox, and
they obtained from the Empr. Sigis-
mond a confirmation of their title.
The Duke of Milan, Philip Maria Vis-
conti, whose ancestors had lost this
territory, by no means acquiesced in
this transfer, and, seizing a favourable
opportunity, surprised the Swiss gar-
rison of Bellinzona by a Milanese
force under Delia Pergola, and took
possession of the town and valley. It
was this event which led to the battle
of Arbedo, in which the Swiss re-
ceived so severe a check. They
afterwards twice gained possession of
Bellinzona and its subject valleys by
hard fighting, '* by the help of God

Svatzierlcmd. fioUTE 35. — ^lauterbrunnen to kippel.

123

and t&ieir halberts/' as they boastingly
pTodaimed, first from the Duke of
Milan, wod next from the French, who,
in ihe reign of Liouis XIL, obtained
temponffy possession of these ral-
leys.

Prom the beginning of the 16th to
the Old of die 18tb century, the Swiss
maintained uninterrupted possession
of Beffinxooa, goT-eming its territory
as a stite subject to the cantons, with a
rule astjnumic as that of the absolute
dukes «r Milan, their predecessors.
Since 1814 it forms part of the canton
^Kcino, or Tessin.

The three picturesque Castles which
stfll seem to domineer over the town,
though partly in ruins, were the resi-
dence of the 3 Swiss bailiffs deputed
to gorem the district, and were occu-
pied hj a garrison, and armed with
some pieces of cannon. The largest,
called Castello Grande, or San Mwhele,
on an isolated hill to theW. of the town,
belonged to canton tJri, and now serves
us an arsenal and prison, and there is
a fine view from it. In a tall tower
are confined the prisoners who are
condemned to imprisonment for life
for murder. The other prisoners are
in chains, but do not seem unhappy :
1 fr. will procure admission to the
prison and view. Of the two castles
on the £• the lower one, Castello di
Mezzo, belonged to canton Schwytz,
aid the highest of all, Castello Corbario,
to Unterwalden ; they are both unoc-
enned.

There remains little elseto parti-
eaUgdse here. A few hours of BeUin-
xoDa are quite enoug^h, and Locarno
is a more pleasant pStce, and the inn
asgood.

rtom Bellinzona the traveller has
the didce of two roads to Milan : by
the LftPo Maggiore (Hte. Ill), or
by the £ago di Lugano (Rte. 1 1 5).

ROUTE 86.

LAUTERBBUNNEN OB Mt^BBEN TO KIP-
PEL OBKANDEBSTEG, BT THE TSCHIN-
OEL OLACIEB.

The passage of the Tschingel gla-
cier has deservedly come into great
repute among Alpine travellers during
the last few years. The pass, espe-
cially the descent into the Lotsch
Thai, is somewhat difficult, and none
of the recognized precautions for
glacier travemne should be omitted.
If these be du^ taken, with good
guides, there is no danger. A good
walker may easily perform the dis-
tance, either to Kippel or Eandersteg,
in 1 day from Lauterbrunnen; but
both in order to get early on the
glacier, and to leave time ror enjoy-
ing the scenery, which is of the
grandest character, it is advisable to
sleep at the chalet on the Steinberg
Alp. This arrangement gives the
traveller time to enjoy the scenery of
the upper valley of Lauterbrunnen,
and visit the fall of the Schmadri-
bach on the preceding day, and a
g^de may be sent on to the Steinberg
chalet to prepare the supper.
' From Lauterbrunnen to the Steinberg
Alp is a walk of 3 hrs., with a tolerable

Sath, the latter part steep, but not
ifficult. From Miirren it takes rather
less time by a pleasant path alon&r
the hill-side, passing; a deserted
silver-mine. The chuet was of the
smallest dimensions, scarcely allow-
ing space for more than 2 travellers
to stretch themselves on the floor,
while the guides and herdsmen stowed
themselves away in a half-open hay-

a 2

124

EOUTK 35. — TSOHINGEL GLACIER.

Sect. I.

loft; but a more commodious shed has |
lately been completed. The E. side of
the lower part of the Tschingel glacier
is reached at a point about 1 m. from
the chalet. Immediately above this the
glacier descends a steep rocky slope,
making at the same time a bend,
whose convex side is to the E. As the
glacier itself is quite impracticable, it
IS necessary to reach its upper level
by climbing the rocks on the western
or concave side. At the part nearest
to the bend of the glacier these do not
appear very steep, but a little lower
down, and immediately opposite the
point at which the traveller first ap-
proaches the glacier, they appear im-
practicable; in one place, indeed, ab-
solutely perpendicular. A practised
mountaineer will, however, not fail to
remark that the rocks near the glacier
have all their edges rounded, and their
surface smoothed, and he will gene-
rally see some loose blocks of ice
l^ing at their base. Either indica-
tion is enough to show him that the
spot is one which muBt be carefully
avoided. Even if there were no
danger, the smooth rocks are far
more difficult to climb than the
steeper, but rougher, rocks opposite.
But this is one of the spots, common
in the high Alps, where blocks of ice
detached from the edge of an upper
Racier foM at intervals over the rocks.
There is but little chance of life for
one who ^ds himself in l^e track of
one of these falling blocks.

The passage of the glacier presents
no difficulty, care being taken to
keep well out of the range of the ice-
blocks^ whose scattered fragments tra-
vel some way over its surface. A steep
bank of shattered slate on the W.
bank of the glacier sometimes ap-
pears difficult to unpractised travel-
lers. Above this is the very steep
face of rock called the Tschingel Tritt,
which is ordinarily considered to be
the main difficulty of this route. It
is not more than about 30 ft. high,
and the goatherds and other natives
are^ accustomed to place the trunk of
a pine-tree leaning against the rock,
so as to serve as a rude ladder. This,
however, is constantly broken, or

carried.^ away by avalanches, so that
it more commonly happens that the
traveller has to ascend by climbing
the rock. As this is rough, and gives
good hold both for feet and hands, an
experienced cragsman finds no parti-
cular difficulty; out the guides never
fail to give abundant, and even super-
fluous assistance, while they often
neglect the necessary precaution of
the rope, against the more real, but
not apparent, dangers of the upper
glacier.

Above the Tschingel Tritt the as-
cent continues for some distance up
rather steep slopes, till about 2 hrs.
from the cnalet the passage of the
upper glacier commences. If not
pressed for time, it is well worth
while to make a slight detour
(scarcely ^ an hr.) to the Gamschi'
liicke, an opening in the ridge on the
rt., overlooking the Eien Thai (Rte.
36J, and beyond it the plain of Switz-
erland and the distant range of the
Jura. A portion of the panorama
from this point of view is published
in M. Gottlieb Studer's 'Topogra-
phische Mittheilungen.'

In about 2^ hrs., ascending to the
S.W. over the glacier, the col or pass
is reached, between the Muthhorn, a
dome-shaped sunmiit, rising in the
midst of the Tschingel glacier, and
the Fra% or Blumlis Alp, which forms
the northern barrier of its upper
plateau.

At this point the routes to Kippel
and Kanderstee diverge. In the di-
rection which tne tra^ has hitherto
followed, the snow sinks towards the
S.W. into a glacier valley lying be-
tween the Blumlis Alp and me com-
paratively low and uniform range
which extends from the Tschingel-
hom to the Balmhom and Altels.
Over this latter range, which forms the
boundary between Berne and Valais,
lies the route to Kippel, in the Ijotsch
Thai

A short descent, followed by a new
ascent> over moderate slopes of ni^ve
in a direction nearly due S., leads in
about an hour to the summit, here
called the Peter's Grot, One vide
crevasse is passed near the top, but

SwitserJand.

BOUTS 35. — ^TSCHINGEL OLACIEB.

125

the ^bckfr shows no others. The
traT^a should, however, recollect,
thoiig\i the guides often foreet it,
that preesBlion on the upper ^aciers
is most needed -when no oanger is ap-
parent Lei a party be securely tied
together, and they may go pretty
nearly where they please. The summit
of the ridee is somewhat above 10,000
ft. in hei^t, and conmiands a mag-
nifioeot Tiew; one too, which is new
to most Alpine travellers. In addi-
tion to the grand ranges of snowy
mountains wmch have been in view
throi^lhoat the ascent, the traveller
now &ds himself exactly opposite to
the ekftin whose two extremities are
the Aletac^hom and the Nesthom,
and which separates the Ldtschthal
from the valley of the Rhone. The
mean height of this magnificent range
probably exceeds 12,000 ft in height,
and the Nesthom or Bietschhom from
eveiy point of view is a most striking
and attractive object. The ascent of
this peak, which probably conmiands
the finest panoramic view to be found
in the entire range of the Alps, unless
that of the Aletschhom be preferred
to it, was first effected in 1859, by the
Bev. lieslie Stephen, with 2 or 3
guides.

The broad snow-covered ridge of
the Peter's Grat throws out several
arms of glacier which descend into as
many lateral valleys or glens of the
Lotschthal. The usual course is to
foiOow the E. side of the glacier which
descends nearly due S. from the point
at which the summit of the ridge is
first attained. The slope, at first
gaide,80on becomes more steep. The
^seier varies extremely according to
tiw season and the state of the snow.
It is sometimes easy enough, some-
times decidedly difficult. At all times
bewsre of concealed crevasses. In
deseending the grand views of the
surruunding peaks are for a time con-
cealed, and their place supplied by
scane wild rock scenery in tne steep
and narrow glen throueh which a
iocrent rushes to join the Lonza in
the main valley below. In descend-
ing a barrier of rocks below the end
of tbe glaoier keep careftiUy to the

track which is known to the guides ;
there is no other practicable way.

Where the patn emerges into the
Lotschthal there a fine view of the
Nesthom, and of the great glacier
which closes in the upper end of Uie
valley, [over which hes the glacier
route to the ^ggischhorn b^ the
Lotschsattel (Bte. 60). At the mmie«
diate foot of the pass, at Flatten, ac-
conunodation may be had at the house
of the curd; or similarly, 1^ hr. far-
ther at Kippel. This pass is some-
times made by takine^ the Peter's Grat
at a point farther W., and descending
into the Lotschthal by the W. side of
the tributary glacier. In deciding
the route it is best to rely on the local
knowledge of the guides. In a favour-
able condition of the glacier the pass
from the Steinberg Alp to Flatten may
be made in 8| hrs., but it may require
1 or 2 hrs. more.

Descent to Kandersteg. — ^From the
col, at which the two routes diverge,
which forms the proper limit between
the Tschingel and Kuider Glaciers,
the neve at first inclines with a gentle
slope towards the Oasteren ThaL This
graduslly becomes steeper, and after
an hour's descent the increasing
width of the crevasses makes it ne-
cessary to quit the glacier for the
rocks on its S. or l.-hand bank. Here
there is a spring, at which it is usual
to halt for refreshment. A steep
and rough descent without serious
difficulty, and a short passage over the
lower end of the glacier, lead in 2^ or
3 hrs. from the summit to the highest
chalets of the Oasteren Thai The
scenery of this wild and savage valley
is of the highest order, and well
deserves an excursion from Kan-
dersteg by those who do not cross
the pass. A tolerable track, used by
the herdsmen, leads in 2 hrs. from the
chalets, sometimes called Gasteren-
dorf, or Im Selden, where milk, cheese,
and, in case of need, hay to sleep
upon, may be obtained, to Kandersteg
(Bte. 37). Time, about 9 hrs. from the
Steinberg ch&let, exclusive of the
detour to the Gamschiliicke and of
stoppages. The Laueners of Lautep*

126

ROUTE 36. — LAUTERBRUNNEN TO KAJTOERSTEQ.

Sect. I.

brannen are exoellent g^des. J.
Kronig is also well spoken of. In the
Lotschthal Joseph Appener is well
known and recommended.

Kandersteg ; Inn, Victoria (Rte. 37).

KOUTE 36.

liAUTERBRUNNEN OR MtfRREN TO KAN-
DEBSTEQ, BY TH£ PASSES OF THE
8EEFINEN FUBKE, AND DUNDENGRAT.

Lanterbrnonen to Hns.

Mttrren 2i

Tadiingel hamlet .... 5
Kandersteg 7i

There is probably no route among
the Alps so free from danger, which
leads through such a succession
of magnificent scenery. The two
passes, however, if taken in one day,
make it very laborious, and the de-
scent into the yalley of Oeschinen is
awkward after darK; the traveller,
however good a walker he may be,
will do well to allow himself 14 hrs.
of daylight. At a small expense the
path might be made quite practicable
for mules, and is even now crossed by
them. (See next page.)

On leaving Lauterbrunnen there is
a choice of routes : one by the valley,
following the char-road to Stechel-
berg, and then turning to the right up
the course of the stream which drains
the Seefinen Thai; the other plan,
which is in many respects preferable,
is to mount from Lauterbrunnen to
Miin^en (Rte. 25 B), and sleep there.

starting in good time on the following
morning. The traok mounts for some
distance beyond Murren, in order to
turn the m>nk of a ridge which de-
scends here from the Schilthom on
the rt This brings the traveller to a
position right opposite the Jungfran,
at about the height of the Wengern
Alp, but with a view still more mag-
nificent. The great chain of Alps
from the Wettemorn to the Breithom
is in front, its continuation throagh
the Tschingel Horn to the westward,
as also the Frau, being from this
point of view shut out by the nearer
precipices of the Gspaltenhom. Still
farther to the west is visible the
Furke; and descending from it, the
torrent and the valley of the Seefinen.
^ The ground slopes rapidly away from
the foot down to the depths of the Am-
merten ThaL The Jungfr^u is from
this point of view, and from this alone,
measured in one glance from the snow
on her summit to the level road at her
feet: in a word, of her 13,718 ft. of
altitude, more than 10,000 rise at once
in precipices before the eye. The
trade now winds away alone the slope
of the mountain, and falls m with the
valley path just at the foot of the
pass. This Furke is a very remark-
able depression between the SchUt-
hom and Gspaltenhom; and an enor-
mous buttress of the latter here turns
the direction of the route from W. to
S.W. The ascent is rather steep, but
the ground is favourable, and clear of
snow; which lies, however, in long
slopes to the left. The view from the
summit (height 8572 ft.) is very fine,
including the Faulhom, and below it -
the Wengern Alp and its hotel, which
is easily discernible. The upper part
of the Elien Thai is seen to the L,
filled up by the Gamschi glacier,
over which it is said to be possible
to gain the level of the Tschingel,
through the opening called the Gam-
schiliicke (Rte. 35). The descent into
the Kien Thai requires rather an
awkward circuit, which leads to a
long slope of slate debris, requir-
ing caution to avoid a slip. Next suc-
ceeds a long slope of snow, and then
the greensward. The route take^ by

SwUzerland. boute 36. — ^dundenorat. boute 37. — ^the gemmi. 127

the sQides leads to a bridge near the
hanuet of Tschingel, so low down the
▼alley u to increase considerably the
toil of ibe next ascent; and it the
tonnsi is &tigaed, or the son much
past the mendian, he will do well
either to make up his mind to
sleep at some chdlets near the head
of the ^n Thal» or else to take
the opportunity which here pre-
sents itself of descendingto the char-
road at Beichenbach. The ascent of
the ridge separating the Kien Thai
from tw Oeschinen Thai, called the
Dittdagratj is steep, but oyer ^ood
gromi^and a yiew is soon obtained
of the pyramidal Niesen, and the
lake of Thun beyond it Near the
top it becomes rather rough, and
the stones are succeeded by a bed of
snow, which adds a eood ^al to the
fatigae of the last half-hour of ascent:
from the snow to the top of the ridge
is bat one step, and the next is down-
liiil Here a new scene of magni-
iicenoe opens. The glittering Frau,
which is here quite close, with a triple
glacier streaming down from her side
ioto the gulfs beneath, and farther off
the Doldenhom, and the beautiful lake
of Oeschinen encompassed by it, form
a scene unparalleled in the Alps;
though resembling in some of its
features the lake and glacier scenery
near the summit of the Maloja. The
descent from the high pastures to the
lerel of the lake is practicable only by
one route, where a path has been cut
in steps here and there along the faces
of the rocks. The path leads along
theW. shore of the lake through a
pine wood beyond it, in about 2 hrs.
to the Tillage and inn of Kandersteg.
Prom Murren to Kandersteg is at
least 10 hrs. walk exclusiye of stop-
pages.

Kandersteg (see Kte. 37). The land-
lord of the Victoria proposes to con-
vert this road into a mule-path. In
1866 he guided a lady with a mule to
Marren in 15 hrs.

ROUTE 37.

PASS OF THE GEMMI, THUN TO THE
BATHS OF LEUK (LO^OHE), AND TO
LEUK IN THE yALAIS.

Thun to
Frutigen )

Standen. Eng. m.

Scbwaren^h\ /2t .

Leukerbod > Bridle-path. {2k .

Leuk

14
8
8
8
8

'Carriage from Thun to Frutigen,
20 fr., 2 fr. bonnemain. Dil. 3 hrs.,
2 fr. 20. A pleasanter route is to
take the steamboat to Spietz a very
pretty place, near which is a good
country Inn^ Schoneeg. Hence a walk
of 10 miles throng fields leads to
Frutigen. A carriage may usually
be obtained at Spietz. Char from
Frutigen to Kandersteg with bonne-
main, 8 fr. 50. Horse to Leukerbad,
20 fr. To Dauben See, 10 fr.

'pn approaching the Gemmi from
Interlaken the hie^h road to Thun is
left a little beyond Leissingen, and a
char-road mounts the hill to ^schi
(see further), and descends from thence
to Miihlinen, about 4 leagues from In-
terlaken. Pedestrians may make a
short cut]

The Gemini (pronounced Ghemmi)
is one of the most remarkable passes
across the Alps. Its scenery is, per-

128

ROUTE 37. — ^THE GEMMI. FRUTIGBN.

Sect I.

haps, extraordmary rather than grand.
There is a good char-road for a mile
and a half beyond Kandersteg, to the
N. foot of the pass : the pass itself,
and the space between it and the
Baths, can only be surmounted on
foot or on horseback.

The first part of the route lies
along the beautiful shores of the
lake of Thun. Near the tall tower
of Stratdingen it crosses the Kander
by a lofty bridge. That river ori-
ginally avoided the lake altogether,
and, nowine for some distance pa-
rallel to it, behind the hill of Stratt-
lingen, joined the Aar below Thun,
Owing to the quantity of mud and
gravel which it brought with it, and
the slight inclination of its channel
in this part of its course, it converted
the surrounding district into an un-
healthy marsh, and gave rise to a
project, which was executed in 1714
at the expense of the canton, of turn-
ing the river into the lake of Thun.
This was effected by cutting a canal,
3000 ft. long, and 272 ft. broad, into
which the river was turned; and
which, seen from the bridge in cross-
ing, has much the appearance of a
natural ravine. By this change of
course the land on the banks of the
Aar has been drained and made pro-
fitable, while the deposit of sand and
stones brought down by the river into
the lake has so accumulated as to form
a delta around its mouth, extending
already nearly a mile from the shore,
and annually increasing.

Wyler (5 n^. from Thun) [a road
turns 1. up to the village of Aeschi,
The ascent of ^ hr. will be well re-
paid by the view from the churchyard.
At your feet the Lake of Thun, with
a peep into the singular Justis Thai
on its N. side; beyond Thun the range
of the Jura. On the 1., close at hand,
the rival mountains Niesen and Stock-
horn tower above the Simmenthal.
To the rt. stretches the Lake of
Brienz; theKothhom and Pass of the
Brtinig rising from its shores, topped
by the Titlis. To the S. the snowy
giants of the Oberland rear their
massive forms. There is a carriage

road from ^schi direct to MiihU-
nen.]

The road passes the mouth of the
Simmenthal (Bte. 42), guarded on
one side by the Stockhom, and on the
rt. by the Niesen, two noble moun-
tains, between which the valley opens
out a scene of exceeding beauty,
with the castle of Wimmis standing as
it were in its jaws. [From Wimmis
the Ascent of the Niesen is made in 5
hrs. (3 hrs. to descend) — a horse-path
all the way, 7280 ft. high. There is
an Inn with 12 beds, 5 min. walk
below the summit. Grand view of fer-
tile valleys and snowy Alps, including
Mt. Blanc. The entire range N. of
of the Bhone, from the Altels to the
"Wetterhom is in sight. Dill's Pano-
rama is hung up in the Inn.]

On the margin of the lake rises an-
other picturesque castle, that of Spietz.
Skirting the base of the pyramidal
Niesen, we enter the valley of FruH-
gen, which is remarkable for its ver-
dure and fertility, and may be said to
exhibit Swiss pastoral scenery in per-
fection. At

Miihlinen (10 m. from Thun) is a nice
little Inn, the Bear. At Heichenbach
the Kienthal opens out to the S.£.
(Bte. 36.) Ascending by the side of
the Kander, we reach

Ftiitigen (Inns : Helvetia and Post,
both very fair and reasonable; guides
and mules for the Gemmi may be
hired here), a village of 3500 Pro-
testant Inhab.: its houses are for
the most part not older than 1826-7,
at which time nearly all were de-
stroyed in two consecutive conila-
grations. Behind it the valley di-
vides into two branches; that on the
W. leads to the Adelboden; that on
the E. (down which flows the Kander)
to the Gemmi.

[The ascent of the Niesen may be
made from Frutigen in 4 hrs., but the
path is much steeper than from
Wimmis.]

The road passes under the castle of
Tellenburg, the former residence of

SaHiurland.

SOUTE 37.— KANDEBSTEQ. EXCURSIONS.

129

the amtman, or bailiff of the district,
and, crossing the Kander, proceeds
up iU n. bank. The snowy Altels
ebses^TaUey.

KaadenUg, 2 Ttms, 1^ mile apart
H. de rOvs, best, and conyenientlj
akuted tur the Gemini, heing placed
where the char-road ends, and the
faridle-psth begins. H. Victoria, op-
posite the entrance of the (Eschi-
nenthiljfidr; a ciTil landlord. N.B.
£etm% chars to Thun may be got
hereior 8 to 10 frs.; with 2 horses,
12 to 20 frs. Horses to cross the
Gemmi to the baths of Leuk cost
15 fr. before 9 A.M., 18 fir. after; 10 fr.
to the Daoben See. From Kander-
steg to Leukerbad is about 7 hrs. ;
the path is easy to find, and except in
thick weather there is no occasion for
a guide. ELandersteg is the last village
in theTalley: its scattered habitations
contain about 700 individuals. It is
beaotifiilly situated 3280 ft. above the
seti, at the N. base of the Genuni.
Wood cut in the mountain forests
around is here set afloat in the Kander,
and thus conveyed into the lake of
Thun, where the logs are collected and
separated by the various proprietors.

^Excursions, — a. Those who have
time tospare should onno account omit
to walk hence about 3 m. through
a sublime gorge (see Bte. 36) into
the side Valley of (Eschinen, running
directly £. from Kandersteg, where,
hemmed in by precipices andglaciers,
^T wiU find a beautiful clear lake,
which mirrors on its smooth surface
the sDowy peaks of the Blumlis Alp, at
whose base it lies. This valley leads
over the fine Pass of DUndengrat to
Lanlearbrunnen (Bte. 36). — 6. No one
will regret an expedition to the Gasteren
Jhalf which can be accomplished in
about 7 hrs. No guide required. The
path tarns off close to the H. de TOurs,
and ascends a wild gorge with over-
hanging cliffs. In the middle of the
gporge a frail bridge is crossed, and
the path then keeps to the rt. bank.
50 m. from Kandersteg the wide green
Gcuteren Thai opens, surrounded by
precipices and waterfalls and snow

mountains above them. The path runs
through debris, and then ascends to the
village of Gasteren. Soon afterwards
the mafi;nificent Kander Glacier is
seen at the head of the valley (see Bte.
35). Those who have a steady head
may from hence ascend the Gemmi by
the rugged and difficult gorge of the
Schwarzbach. — c. A path of no great
difficulty leads W. in 5 hours, over the
Bonder-Grat, to Adelboden {Inn toler-
able.) It turns out of the char-road just
above Kandersteg, crosses the grassy
slopes to the foot of some rocks,
which it surmoimts by a ladder. From
the summit (2 hrs. 50 miA. walk) the
view is fine, comprising the Monch,
Jungfrau, and the whole of the
CEscninen-thal and lake. From Adel-
boden to Friitigen, a waUi of 2 or 3
hours, through a deep but rather
monotonous valley. Above Adelbo-
den is a fall of some magnitude.
From Adelboden there is an easy
padi over the Hahnenmoos pass, in 3^
hrs., to An der Lenk (Bte. 39).]

To the Gemmi,

Immediately after leaving the H.
de rOurs the char-road ceases ; and
the ascent of the Pass of the Gemmi
commences in earnest behind. The
path lies for the first 1^ hr. through
forests in a steep ascent; it then
passes the boundary line of the
cantons Berne and Wallis. A new
path ascends in zigzags through fir
woods, and commands a find view over
the grand valley of Gasteren. It
then emerges upon a tract of open
pasture land, rendered desolate by the
fall of an avalanche from the Bmder
Horn in 1782. The path winds, for a
considerable distance, among the frag-
ments of rock brought down by it.
Farther on stands the

Solitary Inn of Schioarenbach : it
affords good refireshments and rough
sleeping accommodation, which are
often acceptable in such a situation.
Complaints of extortion have been
made. The German poet Werner has
laid in this gloomy spot the scene of a
still more gloomy tragedy, * The 24th
of February.' The extravagant and

•J

130

ROUTE 37. — ^TH£ GEMMI. DAUBEN SEE.

Sect. I.

improbable plot has no foundation in
any real event which happened here.

[From this Inn the ascent of Altels
(11,923 feet) may be made in about
7 hrs. altogether. The ascent is up a
long slope of ice, is dangerous, and
should not be attempted by less than
3 men tied together, j

About 2 m. further on the path
reaches and winds along above the £.
margin of a small lake called Dauben
Sefit supplied by snow, not by springs,
which often swell it so as to cover
the path : for 8 months of the year it
is frozen. Nothing can exceed the
dreary aspect of the seared and naked
limestone rocks which form the sum-
mit of the pass : they seem too barren
for even the hardiest lichens.

The culminating point traversed by
the road is 7540 ft. above the sea level,
and about 1 hr. from Schwarenbach.
From a rocky eminence on the 1. of
the path, a superb view is obtained of
the chain of Alps beyond the Bhone,
separating the Y alais from Piedmont.

The highest summits in the view,
reckoning from the W., are these: —
1. The Pigne d'AroUa, N.W. of
the Collon ; 2. the Collon itself
easily recognised by the deep deft
in its side ; 3. the Dent Blanche.
Then come three or four minor peaks
of the ran£^ at the head of the Einfisch
ThaL Above this range are seen —
4. the Dentd'Erin; and, 5. the Cervin:
both peaks of bare rock. The series is
terminated by— 6. the Weisshom, the
loftiest and nearest mountain visible ;
and, 7. the Saas Grat, which is
in itself a complete eroup of snowy
peaks. It is one of the most striking
views in Switzerland.

Near the verge of the descent
stands a small shed, capable of
affording partial shelter in a storm.
A little lower down the traveller
finds himself on the brink of a pre-
cipice, from which a plumb-line might
be thrown into the valley below,
nearly 1600 ft., almost without touch-
ing the rock, so vertical are its sides.
It is principally upon the faces of a
buttress of this vast widl that one

of the most extraordinary of all the
alpine roads, constructed in 1736-41,
by a party of Tyrolese, has been
carried. Its zigzags have been in-
geniously contrived, for in many places
the rocks overhang the path, and an
upper terrace projects farther ont
than the one immediately below it.
When it was first made and consisted
merely of a shallow groove in the
rock, it must have been far more
striking than at presents The improve-
ments that have been carried on year
after year have ended in making it a
roomy and perfectly good mule-path.
It however needs greater protection at
the side by garde-fous, and caution
should be used in riding dowix this
descent.

The wonders of this descent are
greatly increased to those who ap-
proach it from the side of Leuk.

" The upper end of the vaUey, as
you look towards the Gemmi, has all
the appearance of a cul-de-sac shut
in by a mountain wall. Up to the
very last moment, and until you reach
the foot of the precipice, it is impos-
sible to discover the way out, or to
tell whither the road goes, or how
it can be carried up a vertical sur-
face of rock. It is a mere shelf — in
some parts a mere groove cut in the
face of the huge cliff, just wide
enough for a mule to pass ; and at
the turns of the ziez^^ you oon-
stantly overhang a depth of nearly
500 ft. Down 3us difficult road in-
valids are carried to the baths : it is
the only way of approaching them
from the N., unless you were to make
a siight detour of 200 m. by Berne,
Friburg, Vevay, and Martigny." On
the face of a rock, near the foot, is a
small building said to have been, for-
merly used as a guard-house to give
notice of any invasion from the Bern-
ese side.

The following clause, relative to
the transport of invalids, is copied
from the printed regulations issued
by the director of the baths: — ** Pour
une personne au-dessus de 10 ans il
faudra 4 norteurs ; si eUe est d'un
poids au-aessus du oommun, 6 por-
teurs: si cependant eUe est d'un poids

SiotteerlanJ. boute 37. — the gebchi. baths of leuk.

131

extnordinaire, et que le oomnuBsaire
le JQ^ necessaire, il poorra apouter
2 poTtenrg, et jamais plus.'* This pro-
yifflonforezoessiye corpulence is some-
what tonisDg. The ascent from the
Baths to^e summit takes 2 hrs. ; a
mule costs 4| fr. up and down.

Baffu of Leuk (^Zeukerbad, — Fr.
Ldkiu). /wis: Hotel des Alpes, best in
all respectB; Bellevue; H. de France;
Conronae; Union; H. Brunner, cheap.
Theaceommodatioii is good, consider-
ing that most of the nouses are of
wood, not Teiy well built, shut up
and abtDdoned firom October to May.
The &re is tolerable, eyerjthing but
mUk and cheese being brought from
the Tallej below. A bath costs 2 fr.

There are 5 bath establishments
attached to the hotels. Leuk Baths
is a hamlet of about 300 Inhab.,
situated 4600 feet above the level
of the sea, Le. higher than the
hi^est mountain in Great Britain,
aod at the end of a yallej termi-
nated on all sides by tremendous
precipices, which will remind the tra-
Teller of a cirqtie in the Pyrenees. The
hot springs (117° to 124° F.) annu-
sUj attract a number of visitors,
chiefly Swiss and French, during the
season, riz. in the months of July and
AngQst, though the inns are open
from ILiy to (>Btober. The baths and
a^Mcnt building^ have been three
tunes swept away by avalanches since
tfaar establishment in the 16th cent.;
and, to ?uard against a recurrence
of ^ cuamity, a very strone dyke
is wm bnUt behind the village to
ward off the snow. Such daSiger,
howerer, is past before the bathing
seasonhegins. One of the first patrons
of the baths was the Cardinal and
Archbishop of Sion, Matthew Schin-
ner, .

The springs, to the number of 10
or 12, rise in and around the village,
Mad nine-tenths of them run off into
HkeDah torrent without being used.
2%e chief spring of 8U Lawrence bursts
iae&k out of the ground between the
inn and the bath-house — a rivulet in
Tolnme at its source, with a tempera-

ture of 1240 Fahr. It is used for the
baths after being slightly cooled. The
other springs vary somewhat in tem-
perature, but little in contents. They
contain only a small portion of saline
matter, and seem to owe their bene-
ficial effects less to their mineral qua-
lities than to their temperature and
the mode of using them. The patient
begins with a bath of an hour's dura-
tion, but goes on increasing it daily,
until at length he remains in the water
8 hours a day — 4 before breakfast,
and 4 after dinner. The usual cure
time (kur) is about 3 weeks. The
necessity of preventing the ennui of
such an amphibious existence, if passed
in solitude, has led to the practice
of bathing in common. The prin-
cipal bath-houses are divided into com-
partments or baths, each about 20 ft.
square, and capable of holding 15 or
20 persons. To each of these baths
there are two entrances, communi-
cating with dressin^-Vooms, one for
the udies, the other for the gentle-
men. Along the partitions dividing
the baths runs a slight gallery, into
which any one is admitted, either
to look on or converse with ^e
bathers below. The stranger on
entering will perceive a group of
some 12 or 15 neads emerging nrom
the water, on the surfiice of which
float wooden tables holding coffee-
cups, newspapers, snuff-boxes, books,
and other aids, to enable the bathers
to pass away their allotted hours with
as small a trial to their patience
as possible. The patients, a motley
company, of all ages, both sexes,
and various ranks, delicate young la-
dies, burly friars, invalid officers, and
ancient dames, are ranged around the
sides on benches, below the water, all
clad in long woollen mantles, with a
tippet over their shoulders. It is not
a little aniusing to a bystander to see
people sipping their breakfasts, or
reading the newspapers, up to their
chins in water — in one comer a party
at chess, in another an apparentfy^ in-
teresting tete-a'tete is going on; while
a solitary sitter may m seen reviving
in the hot water a nosegay of withered

132

ROUTE 37. — ^THE GEMMI. BATHS OF LEUK.

Sect. I.

flowers. The temperature of the bath
is preserved by a supply of fresh
water constantly flowing into it, from
which the patients drink at times.
Against the walls are hung a set of
regulations and sumptuary laws for
the preservation of order and decorum
in tne baths, signed by the burgo-
master, who enforces his authority by
the threat of a fine of 20 fr. for the
highest oflence against his code.

"Art. 7. Personne ne pent entrer
dans ces bains sans etre revetue
d'une chemise longue et ample, d*une
etoflFe grossi^re, sous peine de 2 fr.
d*amende.

"Art 9. La mdme peine sera en-
courue par ceux qui n'y entreraient
pas, ou n'en sortiraient pas, d*une
manidre decente."

Four hours of subaqueous penance
are, by the doctor's decree, succeeded
by one hour in bed; and many a fair
nymph in extreme neglige, with stock-
ingless feet and lincoifed hair, may be
encountered crossing the open space
between the bath and the hotels.
From their condition, one might sup-

Eose they had been driven out of doors
y an alarm of fire, or some such
threatening calamity. The higher pa-
tients go away in September.

a. The principal curiosity of the
neighbourhood is the Ladders (lieiter).
A path through the woods, on the 1.
or £. side of the Dala, 1^ m., half
an hour from the baths, leads to
the foot of the precipice, which, as
before observed, hems in the valley of
Leuk on aU sides, as with a colossal
walL Upon the sloping pasturages
about a mile above the summit of Uiis
precipice, however, stands a village
callea Albinen; and the only mode by
which its inhabitants can communicate
directly with the baths is by a series
of 8 ladders placed nearly perpendicu-
larly aeainst the face of tne cliff. It
can nardly be called difiicult to climb to
the top, but it would not do for any of
weak nerves and a dizzy head, as the
ladders, which are pinned to the cre-
vices of the rock by hooked sticks, are
often awry, and rather unsteady, yet

they are traversed at aU seasons, day
ana night, by the inhabitants of the
yUlage above — by children, as well as
men and women, often with heavy
burdens. The use o^ the ladders,
which the nature of the sides of the
yalley renders indispensable, has giyen
rise to a Blumerisn modification of
the dress of the female peasants. In
climbing the mountains the petti-
coat is tucked up, and the wearers do
not difler in appearance from boys.

N.B. — There is an easy sloping
path from Albinen to Inden.

6. A day may be well deyoted to the
ascent of the Torrent-horn, a mountain
rising £. of Leuk baths, if the weather
be clear. Mules can reach the summit
(9760 ft^ above the sea) in 3^ hours
(10 fr. and bonne-main). It com-
mands a wonderfully fine panorama
of the Alps — an unbroken series of
peaks from Mont Blanc to the Sim-
plon ; with the Altels, Gspalthom,
and Blumlis Alp on the K. The
Gemmi road lies deep below, and its
summit is seen through a gap in the
chain. The ridge ends in a fright-
ful precipice surrounded by isolated
rocks, whose sides are equally verticaL
Pedestrians will require a guide to
find the path up. The first 1200 ft
and the last 700 are a steep climb.
Descent in 2^ hours.

The rocky pass, called Felsen Gal-
lerie, on the opposite side of the Dala,
on the way to Siders, is a yery strik-
ing scene. (See below.)

Muies are kept at the baths, under
the direction of a commissaire, to
transport travellers: the prices are
fixed by a printed tarifil (§ 10.)

There are two ways from the baUis
of Leuk to the valley of the Rhone.

a. The carriage - road from the
Baths to the Simplon road follows tbe
course of the Dala torrent through
one of the finest gorges in Switzer-
land ; and the road, well engineered,
descending by numerous zigzags.

MxrkmcL route SS.-^tuutman to kandersteg.

133

crotaes the rirer by a solid and
bft; bridge^ 420 ft. aboye the torrent,
omxMte Albinen, and conducts, in
aboot ^m. (2^ hrs. walk), to. Leuk.
A dow oDmibns goes daily from the
Bi*to, onee in winter (?), twice in
soomer, to Susten and Sion.

■WfLoiche) (/nn; Ck>uronne^, a
T%oni23 Inhab., on the rt bank
oft]ieBli(n)e»near its junction with the
^^ A eoTored bridge oyer the
Bbooe eonnects it with the Simplon
ro«d(Bte.59> Above it are ruins of
two caitles, destroyed by the Valai-
saniinUli

J.AmnIe-path carried along the

W. side of the valley of the Dala, but

high ibo»« that river, conducts at once

totlietownofSierreCSiders), 12 m.

*Jtoit, and is a short cut for those

jjo wi«h to descend the valley of the

BfcoM towards Martigny and Geneva.

Jjtrayeraes the high pasturages, and

w/ond them a forest of larch; and

paoes the village of Liden, near which

*a extensiye view is gained over the

valley of the Rhone, its towns, vil-

"gw, fiunns, and old castles. The

'•^htly debris brought down by

tnenirions torrents issuing from the

^posite Talley, and the wide expanse

« Wegrarel overflowed by the lihone

I^JpriiJg, but in summer left bare

«w aria--give a desolate character

to the scene.

Between Inden and a village called

' 7^ the road makes an abrupt

™Mnd the traveller finds himsdf

^'^^^ the shadow of a tremendous

^*'*''*'*P°& precipice, forming the

^ of the Loeche valley. The

!*™i8 carried along a narrow ledge

^° front of the cliff; beneath it is a

g«pnig abyss, extending nearly down

^ bed of the Dala, and above, the

f'jwBlean so far forward that stones

falling from their tops would descend

"pon the road, and it is therefore

fwtly protected by a roo£ This spot

» called the Qalerie, and was the

^ne of a bloody combat in 1799,

™n the Valaisans defended this

gpot for several weeks against the

French, effectually checking all at-

tempts to pass, by rolling down stones
and logs from abiove.

A rough and steep descent leads
from this, in about 1^ hour, to

Sierre^ upon the Simplon road (Rte.
59). At Sosten is a good Inn

ROUTE 38.

TURTMAN AND KIPPEL TO KANDEBSTEG,
BT THE L0T8CH PASS.

This pass between the Yalais and
the canton Berne was formerly in
much use, and remains of the mule-
path, which was then carried across
the entire way, are still to be seen.
Since the construction of the Gemmi
road more than a century ago, this
has been let to fall into decay, and
the extension of the glaciers, which
seems to have been universal in this
part of the Alpine chain, has destroyed
part of the old route. The pass is
not difficult in good weather, but it is
better suited for a mountaineer than
an ordinar^r tourist It may be ac-
complished in 8 hrs. eood walking, so
that a traveller wishmg to avoid the
indifferent accommodation at Kippel
may start from, or arrive at, Tour-
temagne (Rte. 59) in the same day.

134

BOUTE 38. — KIPPEL TO KANDERSTBG.

Sect I.

The Lotschthal has been too much
neglected by Alpine travellers, and
no inn has yet been opened, but it
abounds in fine scenery and leads
to several interesting passes (Btes.
35, 60). Mines of argentiferous ga-
lena are worked in it. It is approacned
from Tourtemagne on the Simplon
road.

2 miles above Tourtemagne a
bridge over the Rhone leads in 1
min. to the village of Gampel {Inn,
homely), at the mouth of the narrow
and steep valley of the Lotschthal,
rising, not in terraces, but with a
rapid and continuous ascent. After
Gampel a steep ascent up the 1. bank
of the Lonza succeeds (now mastered
^y A good road), commanding fine
views over the Rhone. The path next
enters a gorge. About an hour from
Gampel there is a fall, not visible
from the road, of no great height,
but a large volume of water. Beyond
the (4 m.) chapel of Koppigstein,
which is constantly swept away by
avalanches, you (1 m.) cross the Lonza
to its rt. bank. A group of cottages
soon appears in a lovely scene of
meadow, wood, and rock, overhung by
superb peaks, after which the cha-
racter of the valley is more cheerful
as far as

1^ m. Ferden (/«n, homely), where it
turns sharply to the east. At the angle,
the view iJong both branches of the
valley is superb; the upper portion is
wider and longer than that which has
been passed, extending to the great
Lotschgletscher, a branch of the sea of
ice around the Jungfrau, overhung by
the Lauterbrunn Breithorn on one side,
and the Schienhom, an offset of the
Aletschhorn, on the other ; while on the
S. the Nesthom and other very lofty
mountains rise steeply in icy peaks.
The cure's house at

Kippel, 15 min. from Ferden, afibrds
poor accommodation for sleeping, but
has hitherto been the usual lodgmg of
visitors to this valley. Joseph Appener
is a good guide. The cure was an
active mountaineer, but is now an old
man. Few or none of the people can

speak anything but their own German
patois, it is said that equally good
acconunodation can be obtained l^hr.
(4 miles) higher up, at

Flatten^ which is reached through
magnificent larch woods, after which,
on ascending to the Loetschberg there
is about 2^ hrs. over pastures, bare
stony slopes, and beds of snow, to
the Col (8796 ft.), overhung by the
grand jptecipices of the Baim-hom,
which forms the eastern end of the
Altels group. [** By giving 2 or 3 hrs.
more to the excursion, a high peak,
to the E., called the Hoch-hom, may be
ascended. Our guide did not sug-
Q;est it till we had nearly reached the
Col, from which it is 1^ hr., chiefly-
over ice. Some fearfuQy steep slopes
are to be crossed, from wmch die
eye plunges down right into the
Gasterenthal, 5000 to 6000 ft. be-
neath. A singular and most striking*
scene occurs in passing round an in-
sulated steeple of rock, rising out of
the ice, with a pool of clear blue water
at its foot. Between it and the peak
lies a narrow isthmus of ice, sloping
steeply down on either side ; after
passmg this, the icy shoulder of the
mountain is to be wound round, with
empty space on two sides ; and then
the last ascent, up a sharp pUe of
stones, takes 15 min. The view is
superb. To the S. and S.W. Monte
Rosa, the Matterhom, and Mont
Blanc towering far above nearer
mountains, are Sie leading objects. To
the £. the Tschingel-horn and other
points of the chain on which we stood,
extending to the Jungfrau and the
Aletschhomer. To the W. a sea oF
lower mountains towards the Simmen-
thai, and an extensive view over the
Bernese lowlands. Retracing omr
course for a good way, we then de-
scended over bare rocks and beds o£
snow to the lower part of the Balm-
gletscher, and reached in a short 2 hrs.
from the Hoch-hom the point where
the direct route across the Lotschberg^
quits the glacier, after lying across it
probably for 1^ to 2 m. Thence there
IS about 1^ hr, of very steep descent
into the Gasterenthal. The river is to

Sdmiand,

BOUTB 39. — ^PAaS OF THE RAWTL.

185

be crossed by a bridge, which must

not be missed : theace to Kandersteg,

»bottt2lin."— ^. FT.]

Ereii without makmg the excursion

to the Hochborn, the yiew from the

sDimitQ{ the pass is extremely fine,

^fioMy goperior to that from the

Gemmi, or my of the passes oyer the

chiun to the K of it. In descending

into the Gasteienthfd there are some

W%^of snow, giying opportunity

forajUs; when the ghusier is

reached, which now coyers oyer the

oldtnekfitis advisable to keep to its

L bander W. side, nearest to the rocks

of theiltels, which towers oyer the

^7. After nearly an hour's descent

over the glacier me track emerges

i^ the Gasterenthal near to the

c™rfIinSelden(Rte.35). The

^^^^ of the surrounding peaks and

the Kaoder glacier descending from

the high plateau at its upper ex-

treoiitj h magnificent (see Bte. 35).

Jbe lower end of the Gasterenthal

IS crowded with huge blocks, some

^ them probably brought down by

swianches, while others haye been

^Uisported by ice from the peaks at

»fi head of the valley. In 2 hrs. the

^^(Qer reaches Kandersteg (Bte.

37).

ROUTE 39.

PASS OP THE RAWYL. — THUN, OB IN-
TERLAKEN, TO SION OB 8IERBE. —
THE GBIHMI.

The paas of the Rawyl begins at
An der Lenk, at the N. foot of the
pass, a good halting-place, about 36
m. from Thun; diligence twice a day
from Thun to Zweisimmen, thence
3 hrs. walk to An der Lenk ; thence
to Sion, oyer the mountain, is fully
10 hrs., or to Sierre 11 hrs. It
is traversed sometimes on horseback,
but is better calculated for the pedes-
trian. From Sion to the top of the
pass there is a good mule-path, re-
cently much improved. Nothing but
a little milk is to be had between An
der Lenk and Sion, therefore provi-
sions ought to be taken. The scenery
on both sides of the pass resembles
that on the S. side of the Gemmi.

The village of An der Lenk may
be reached from the lake of Thun,
by following the Simmenthal, along
which there is a good char-road, or
by tJhe Diemtigen Thai and the pass
of the Grimmi, a route accessible only
to pedestrians; or, thirdly, by Fru-
tigen, the Enestligen Thai, and
Adelboden. The scenery by the
Diemtigen Thai is inferior ; and
there is little saving of time. In
going from Interlaken the way by the
Engstligen Thai is decidedly shorter
for pedestrians.

a. The road up the Simmenthal is de-
scribed (Bte. 42) as far asZweisinuuen.
Thence the char-road is continued,
bearing to the 1. up the Ober Sim-
menthal, about 10 m., to An der Lenk.

6. The route by the Diemtigen Thai
leaves the Simmenthal at Lattenbach
10 m. from Thun. A path there
strikes off up the Diemtigen Thai,
crosses the stream of the Chivel, and
follows its L bank through Diemtigen
and Narrenbach, then recrosses it to

Thiemuxttenj where there is an inn,
about 4 hrs. from Lattenbach, or 4^
from Wimmis, from whence a path

136

ROUTE 39. — VASS OF THE &AWYL.

SectL

mounts the ffJkj by the it. bank.
About a mOe beyoDd this it again
passes the stream, and, leanng it on
the L, gradnaUy ascends to the pass
of the Grvnmi (5580 ft.)., 3 hrs. from
Thiennatten. Descending through
the Fennel Thai (a fertUe vaUey, oiuy
6 UL hmgX it reaches

Mdtten, in the Upper Simmenthal,
on the char-road leading from Zwei-
simmen to An der Lenk, 4 ul

c. The route by the£ngst^g;en Thai
quits the road of the Gemmi at Fm-
tigen (Bte. 37), where Uie torrent
finom that Falley joins the Kander (5^
hrs. frt>m Interlaken). From Frn-
tigen it is a walk of 4^ hrs. to Adel-
boden, where there is a small Inn near
the church. A pedestrian in good
training who has started early from
Interlaken, may reach An der Lenk
in the same day by the low pass of
the Hahnenmoos, 3 hrs. walk to

An der Lenk — Inna : Bad-Hohliebe,
excellent, landlord speaks English:
Bar; Stem; Krone, clean and reason-
able, attentive host ; beautifully situ-
ated near the base of the Wikktrubel
(10,716 Eng. ft.) Strong sulphureous
springs, temp. 49P F., much used by
the Swiss, 3309 fL above sea.

The Simmen rises about 6 m. above
An der Lenk, at the foot of the
glacier of Rasliberg, from a source
called the Seven Fountains. In the
source itself there is little to compen-
sate for the trouble of the ascent to
it, but the scenery around it is of
mat grandeur. Between it and An
der Lenk the Simmen forms several
cascades. There is a char-road for
about 3 m. from An der Lenk towards
the Sieben Brunnen. An interesting
account of glacier excursions about
An der Lenk, including two ascents of
the Wildstrubel, and a passage over the
glaciers between this and the Gemmi
pass, has been given by Mr. Hinchliff
in * Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.'

The path to Sion, is passable for a char
for about 3 m. Instead of proceeding
towards the source of the Simmen,
it ascends the L bank of its tributary,
the Iffigenbach; and the gorge of that
torrent, flanked by vast precipices, is
in places very grand.

The solitary traveller should beware
of losing time by crossing a tempting
bridge about halfway to Iffigen, a
little below a very picturesque water-
fUL

Ifigen, a group of fsrm-honses, one
of which is a tolerable /jm, at the N.
base of the Bawyl, near which the
Iffigenbach makes a very fine ML, is a
good 2 hrs. walk from lienk. Another
2^ hrs. will bring you to the cross on
the summit by proceeding steadily.

A series of zigzags mounts the steep
side of themountain above Iffigen« The
path has been excellently constructed
over this part of the pass, and work-
men are constantly employed in keep-
ing it in repair. The small cascades
that used to fall on the path from the
rock above, have been diverted, and
the way throughout is so broad that
the most timid person need not fear
any uneasiness. From the brow of
the precipice, looking N., a fine view
expands over the valley of An der
Lenk, and the mountains of the Sim-
menthal covered with fine pastares and
fitfmhouses. Crossing a bed of snow,
the path leads up to

l%e summit of the pass of the
Ramyl, marked by a cross (7960 ft.\
The summit is probably 2 m. broad,
covered with loose shattered frag-
ments of slate, and almost utterly
bare of vegetation. When clouds lie
on the pass, a stranger cannot trace the
path over the stones, which is tedious
from the number of gullies, and the al-
ternately crumblingandslippery nature
of the soil, consisting of clay-slskte,
which gradually changes into clay. A
small &ke is reached before the tra-
veller gains the brow of the S. decli-
vity of the mountain, consisting^ of
precipices similar to those on the side
of Berne. The view hence of the
mountains on the S. side of the vale of
the Rhone, especially of the Mat-
terhom and its glaciers, is sublime,
A zigzag path conducts down the
cliffs to uie chalets of Bawin in 1 hn
15 min. The descent is g^ood, the
path having been recently recon-
structed. Close to these chalets two
large bodies of water burst, one on
either hand from the cliffs, forming

SidUerlaiid.

BOcrrE 40. — ^lbnk to gsteiq.

137

fbiefaSls. That on the rt has an iin-
comsoonly fine and singQlar appear-
aaoe, bursting out of a black cleft in
the &ce of a broad and precipitons
Toc\^ in b or 6 distinct columns, and
afterwuds forming a fine wild tumble
of fosming water. Though appa*
TeiUj mt when issuing from the
rock, it las no sooner touched the
groimd than it becomes a river of
Bqnid nod, a large portion of which
is a short way below separated from
the torrent, and conducted rery in-
gemoodT along the face of the moun-
tain, m at one part against a per-
pendkolir cliff, till, aner a course
of seroal mUes, it fertilises the
meadomsear Ayent.

Two paths branch off at the cha-
lets of Samn ; the one leading in 5^
Im. to Sierre ; the other, on the rt.
bank of the stream, through Avent
to Sm in 4^ hrs. The walk nrom
the chalets of Rawin to Sierre is yery
&%oing', owing to the frequent
isemtB and descents. Eor nearly half
ao hour from Rawin, the rt-hana path
rans nearly on a leyel : it next rises
for some distance to turn a rocky bar-
rier, and then descends on Ayent, Eoot
passengers can ayoid this ascent by fol-
lowing the bank of the water-course
before mentioned, which saves nearly
n hour. The most dangerous part
takes 10 min. or ^ hr. to traverse.
Tie only way of passing is along trees
miported on cross bars against the
m of the precipitous rocks at a con-
ffl^Mble height above the stream.
The nene here is very grand. The
Toekktn|s over on the rt. side, and on
thelneides beneath to a depth of 1000
ft The trees are placed singly above
teMof the watercourse, and are not
noiefiiaB a few inches wide, and not
Toyfinnly secured, which increases
Ao dtnger. This track should not
he tttonpted by persons in the least
JmMeto &;iddiness or nervousness.

T%e o&er and longer road is prac-
fieabJe for mules from Sion up to
tile top of the pass. For some dis-
tance it lies amidst forests of fir.
It unites with the footpath before
Teaching

Ayent (accommodation at the curd's).

about 3 hrs. walk from the summit,
passing the hamlet of Grimseln.

Sion (Bte. 56), in 1^ hr.

At Sion, experienced g^des and
mules may be obtained for the ascent
of the Bawyl, called Ravou^ in the
patois of the V alais.

ROUTE 40.

LENK TO LAUENEN, BY THE TRiJTTLTS-
BERO. — LAUENEN TO QSTEIQ, BY THE
CHBINEN.

This is a mule-road of 5| hrs., and
does not require a guide. Beyond
the church of An der Lenk, the path,
after traversing meadows and gproves
and pastoral scenery with the magni-
ficent glaciers of the Wildstriibel and
the Wudhom in sight, begins to as-
cend on the N. side of the valley to
the Ober Staffsl, a plain which is
reached in 2^ hrs. An hour more
brings the traveller to the pass of
TriUtlisherg (about 5900 ft), between
the Dauben and the Stublen. A steep
descent leads in 1^ hr. to

Lauenen (Inn: Bar, rough, but not
uncomfortalble), whence in 2 hrs. over
the Chrinen (5000 ft.). [Saanen may
be reached in 2 hrs. from Lauenen
(Rte. 42) by a good char-road through
very pleasmg scenery.]

Gsteig, Inn : Hirsch, dear and dirty,
but not so bad as it looks. (Bte. 41.)

138

ROUTE 41. — PASS OF THE SANETSCH.

Sect. I.

ROUTE 41.

PASS OF THE SANETSCH (iN FBENCH
BENIN). — SAANEN TO SION.

About 12 hrs.

This is a long, steep, and tedious
horse-pass, but not dangerous except
in very bad weather. The village of
Saanen (or Gessonay), and the road
between it and Thun, are described in
Bte. 42. Char-road from Saanen to
Gsteig, about 11 m.

At Stood the path turns S. by the
valley of the 8aane, the upper end of
which is called Gestig-Thal, to

Gsteig (Chatelet in French), {Inn
tolerable), the highest village in it,
situated close under the lofty and pre-
cipitous Mittaghom, and near the
foot of the Sanetsch, the most west-
erly of the passes over the Bernese
chain.

[From Gsteig there is an easy pass
by the Col de Pillon (5150 ft.), which
leads to the Hotel des Diablerets
(Rte. 43), and to Les Bes in the Yal
d'Ormond dessus, whence there is a
beautiful path to Bex by the Col de la
Croix, and a char-road by Sepey to
Aigle and the lower Valais.]

It is advisable to sleep at Gsteig,
from which Sion is distant 10 easy
hrs., or 8 hrs. hard walking. The pass
rises from this place in a very preci-
pitous manner, and often resembles the
pass of the Gemmi f hr. above
Gsteig the Saane makes a beautiful
folly clearing the face of the rock by
at least 100 ft. In the evening it is
crowned by an iris. The path con-
tinues by the side of the Saane up to
its source. Lovely view looking back
on Gsteig. After a climb of

2 hrs. a grassy plain is entered,
which is I surrounded with abrupt
rocky mountains, and which leads by
a gentle ascent of an hr. to

The summitf 7365 ft. above the
level, a vdld, rocky, solitary plain 3 or
4 m. long, called KretUzboden, barely
relieved by a few patches of vegetation.
To the W. the Sans Fleuron glacier
descends from the Oldenhom (ascended
in 1857 by Mr Hinchliff and Kr.
Bradshaw Smith), near to the summit
the Erentzboden. The pass is not
a grand one, but the mountains of
the great chain of the Alps are
finely seen, from Mt. Yelan and
Mt. Combin to the Dent d'Eiin and
the Dent Blanche, in the neighbour-
hood of the Matterhom. But neither
that remarkable peak nor any part of
the Weisshom, Kothhom, or Monte
Eosa, are visible. The whole of the
straight, steep Yal d'Erin from the
Yalais, and tne glacier of Ferpede,
are seen directly in front. On the
other side the descent is steep but
grassy all the way down to the pine
forests, through which the road to bion
is tedious, but not unpleasing.

2 m. from the summit the Morge river
is crossed, and after 4 m. of bad winding
road, passing a chfilet, is again crossed
by the Font Neuf, a substantiaL stone
foot-bridge 200 ft. above the black
stream. " There is a very pleasing
vet grand view; from this point. The
black slate rocks rise on the E. to a
height of about 2500 ft. Portions of
rock have been detached and stand
upriffht from the valley, each the
height of a small mountain. The hill
on the W. is covered with fir-trees.
A white horizontal line will be ob-
served on the &ce of the slate moun-
tain (rt.) ; this is the wall of a water-
course constructed at the sole expense
of a farmer's wife to supply her native
village with water for irrigation, of
which she had felt the want in her
lifetime, and for which she left the
whole of her fortune at her death."
The descent continues for about 5 m.
through the ravine of the Morsei
Near its mouth is a ruined casUe,
and fine view over the valley of the
Rhone, the Matterhom, &c. The
only village,

Chandolin (humble /nn, good wine)
is the first place from Gsteig^ where
refreshments caii be procured. Here

Smtzerland.

BOTTEB 42. — THUN TO VKVAY.

139

anditSaviese are many narrow lanes,
throDf h which the way is intricate to
fin4 Fine view, as you descend, of the

Seasklesof

Sw (ate. 56). (JViw fnm Sum:
walking toChandoIin l^hp.; tosiim-
mii of PM8, 4 hrs. ; to Gsteig, 34 hre.)

ROUTE 42.

THDir 10 7EVAY,
WAL; 8AANEN,

BY THE snonEsr-

CHiTEAU d'oEX,
iJn) GBUTERES : — PASS OF THE DENT
im JAMAS.

26) leagues =

= 79 Eng.

Leagues. Eng. m.

Tlran

Wdflsenbaiig .

. 4f =

Zwanmmeii .

. 3* =

ikumen (Gesaeimy) 2} «

(Mtean d'Oex .

. 2| =

MoDtboYon . .

. 3 «

BoDe . . .

:lf:

Yeray . . .

26i

•An excellent carriage-road. The
iom aod the means of travelling
Are not good. The valley abounds
in oek eoltivation, fields, orchards,
>sd guden meadows reaching to
the tops of the hiUs, with houses
and nttages lying along the banks of
thenut^ varied with fir forests, rocky
gorgu utd open basins, entirely of a
P««*«il character.

•^ dOisence with 9 seats every
iiwraing from Thun to Saanen (Fr.
Genonay) in 9 hrs. A lighter ve-
hicle with 6 places only leaves Saanen
in the morning, and reaches Yevay
01 about 10 lu-s. Those who can
ralk or ride will prefer to reach

Yevay from Chitean d'Oex, or Mont-
bovon, by the Dent de Jaman.

6 m. The entrance to the Simmen-
thal lies between the Stockhorn on the
rt. and the Niesen on the L, and is
approached from Thun by the road
along the margin of the lake (see
Rte. 37), and the banks of the Kanaer,
as far as its junction with the Simmen,
a little below the picturesque castle
of Wimmis, which our road leaves
1 nL on the L

Brothausi at foot of Niesen (/nn,
Hirsch).

About 34 m. farther is Erlenbach
{Inn, Krone). From this parsonage
Latrobe started on those Alpine expe-
ditions which he has described in so
admirable and interesting a manner in
his Alpenstock (an exceUent English
guide with a foreign name). The
Stockhorn (3 hrs. ascent) rises almost
immediately behind the village of Er-
lenbach.

44 m« Weissenbwrg [has a rough coun-
try Inn (Post), where mules may be
hired, and chairs with bearers, to con-
vey persons who do not choose to walk,
to the StUphur Baths of Weisaenburg, be-
tween 2 and 3 m. from this. There is
an ascent immediately on leaving the
village, but after that the path winds
through a beautiful defile till the
Old Bath-house, singularly situated
in a profound chasm, bursts upon the
view, in a little nook between tne boil-
ing torrent Biintschi and the rocks.
This building is now almost exclu-
sively occupied by peasants, as a large
new j&b^«/ and bath-house of a superior
class has been opened near the mouth
of the goree. This is well kept by an
attentive landlord, and the charges
are reasonable. The scenery around
is highly picturesque, but inaccessible
to aU but stout climbers, except along
the road to Weissenburg. The waters
contain sulphur, maenesia, soda, and
iron, and are efficacious in removing
internal obstructions. The source
is i m. higher up the gorge, and the
water (above 82® Fahr.) conveyed
to the baths in wooden pipes car«

140

ROUTE 42. — ^BOLTIGEN. SAAKEN.

Sect L

ried along the fSsuse of the precipice.
Some way up the ravine the pea-
sants haye formed a pathway out of
it to the upper pastures, by cutting
notches or rude steps in the face of the
rock, and partly by attaching ladders
to It. By this means they scale a dizzy
precipice between 200 and 300 ft high.
The pedestrian bound for the upper
Simmenthal need not retrace his steps
to Weissenburg, as there is a short
cut direct from the baths to Oberwyl,
on the high road.1

The Simmenegg is a defile formed by
2 projecting rocks, between which the
road passes to

4^ m. BoHigen(^Inn: Bar; trout-fish-
ing here), a yillAge situated 2600 ft.
above the sea, a little to the S. of the
old castle of Simmeneg?. The ruined
castle of Laubeck ovenooks the road,
which is now carried round the emi-
nence, avoiding a steep ascent. The
gorge of Laubeck is a scene of gpran-
deur. Near Beidenbach there are coal-
mines. [Two paths lead from Beiden-
bach to Bulle, each in about 8 hrs.
One over the Klus is steeper and more
mountainous ; the other, by Bader^
moos, through lowfer country, with
pastoral scenery alternating with pine
forests. Either path leads down the
valley of the Jaun and shortens the
journey to Bulle by about 4 leagues.]
The river is crossed 3 times before
reaching

6^ nu Zweisimmen, a village of 1 200
Inhab., composed of old brown and
red wooden houses (no good Inn:
lion; Krone), at the junction of the
great and lesser Simmen. The Castle
of Blankeriburg crowns the height
about a mile above it. Until the
democratic revolutions in canton
Berne, it was the residence of the
landvogt, who now occupies his own
humble farm-house beside it. It is
still the seat of the government, and
the prison. [A char-road 1. runs hence
past (3 m.) St. Stephan (Inn: Alter
Schweitzer), to (2^ m.) Matten and
(31 m.) An der Lenk (see Rte. 39).]

The road to Bulle and Vevay now
quits the Simmenthal by a very steep
ascent, throueh beautiful scenery, in
which rugged peaks of limestone are

interspersed with grand forests of pine,
and, turning to the S.W., crosses aa
elevated tract of pasture-land called the
Saanen-Moser, till it descends upcm

9 m. Saanen (Fr. Gessonay) — Irrns t
Grosslandhaus ; H. de Eranich ;
rOurs), the principal place in the
pastoral valley of the upper Saane
(Sarine), whose 3629 Inhab. are
almost exclusively cattle -owners, or
occupied in their oairies, and in manu-
facturing excellent cheese, exported
to all parts of the world as Gruy^res
cheese. A kind peculiar to the valley,
too delicate to bear exportation, is
called Fotschari-kase. [The ascent of
the Sanetsch Pass (Bte. 41) is made
from this. Taking the char-road to
Gsteig (9 m.), you mav cross Col de
Pillon to Sepey, in Val des Ormonds,
and les Diablerets (Rte. 43). There
is also a pleasant footpath leading to
Gruyfere over Grubenberg in 2f hrs.;
then by Ablatschen li hr.; then by
Jaun li hr. (Bellegarde in French),
Inn, clean, ^d lastly down the vaUej
of the Jaun.l

The road oeyond this Is hilly. A
little below Saanen we pass out of
Berne into canton Vaui German,
the language of the upper extremity
of the valley, is soon exchanged for
a French patois, in the lower por-
tion, which is called Pays d'en haut
Bomand. The first Yaudois village, 2}
m., is Bougeqiont (Germ. Rothber^g
— Inn: Ereutz). Its chateau was for-
merly a convent.

H m. ChcUeau d* Oex (Oesch) — (^Tfmsz
L*Ours ; Maison de YiUe) — ^a Tillage
of 2300 Inhab., 3030 ft. above the sea,
rebuilt after a conflagration in 180(1.
The ch&teau, after which it is named,
is replaced by a chwch on the heigkt
where once it stood. The road next
crosses the Saane to 1} m. MbuHm,
[Hence a path strikes off into the
Val des Ormonds (Rte. 43) by th#
Monette, also leading into that over tte
Dent de Jaman.] At 1^ m. a turn to
the L leads across the river, passiai^
to Bossiniire, the ancient PensHMl
Henschoz. It is highly praised}
charge for bed and board, 4 fr. 50 e.
a day. The pass of the Tine between
very grand rocks and pines leads Iq

Switzerland.

ROUTE 42. — DENT DE JAMAN. GRUYiRES.

141

^VLMontbcvoH — (Bubenbere. Inn:

H. de Jaman, fair, clean, ana civil)

— ivtuEhByron calls ''a pretty scraggy

Tilla^ vim a wild river and a wocden

bridge;'* it is situated in canton Frey-

buig. Afew horses are kept here ror

hiie. It is better to order them from

Vevay the day before.

[A horse-path over the highly inte-
Tes^PasaofDent de JamanT Jommen
Pa8sX4890 ft above the sea-level, de-
scendisg upon iJie Lake of Geneva
abore MontreiLX, will bring the tra-
veller to Vevay, a walk of 5 hrs.
After reachmg the Col. and descend-
ing aboQt I hr. the path divides,
tbe rt leading to Vevay, the 1. to
MoQtreiDL Guide needless. * Byron,
who erofised this path, describes
the whole route as '* beautiful as
a dream." *« The view from the
highest points (we had both sides of
^e Jura before us in one point of
Tieir, inth alps in plenty) comprises,
00 Qoe side, the greatest part of
lake Leman ; on the other, the val-
leys and mountain of the canton of
^^borg, and an immense plain, with
the lakes of Neuchatel and Morat
and all which the borders of the
Uke of Geneva inherit The music
rf the cow's beUs (for their wealth,
hke the patriarch's, is cattle) in the
(tttoies, which reach to a height far
above any mountains in Britam, and
^ shepherds shouting to us from
ciig to crag, and playing on their
fBoi, where the steeps appeared al-
VQH inaccessible, with the surround-
iBgaemery, realized aU that I have
<iw heard or imagined of a pas-
tmd existence — ^much more so tban
^BBee or Asia Minor, for there we
w« a little too much of the sabre
9id msket order, and if there is a
cnqk in one hand, you are sure to
4W % gon in the other ; but this was
,ini8 lod unmixed — solitary, savage,
, and natriarchaL As we went they
;;JIJbyiBa the *Kanz de Yaches' and
, 9mt airs by way of farewell. I have
..pidy repeopled my mind with nature."
■ '-^Byrons Journal,

^ Tke view from the Col (inferior to
that from the Col de PiUon) commands

S'eat part of the lake, but to see the
berland range you must climb the
Dent itself 2 hrs. from the CoL From
Vevay to the Col is 4 hrs. walk.]

The carriage-road from Montbovon
to Vevay makes a very long detour :
descendmg the valley of the Saane,
and circling around the base of the
MoUson (6181 ft.), the highest moun-
tain in canton Freyburg, it passes
under the hills crowned by the castle
and town of

7 m. Gntyh'ea (German, Greyerz) —
Inns: not good. This dirty little
mouldering town of 375 Inhab. is ex-
tremely picturesque from its position
on the face of a hill, the top of
which is crowned by the Castle^ very
conunanding from its situation, and
well preserved. Its owners, the Counts
of Gruydres, were sovereigns of the
surrounding district down to 1554,
when the family became bankrupt,
and the creditors seized and sold the
lordship to Berne, so that the last
descendant died in a strange land.
The castle has been sold to M. Rory,
who has repaired it with taste.
The gloomy antiquity of the in-
terior corresponds with the cha-
racter of its watch-towers, battle-
ments, and loop-holes as seen from
without. The walls are 14 ft thick,
the halls vaulted and dindy lighted
by small windows : in ^one is a fire-
place at which oxen were roasted
whole. The tortwe chamber at the
top of the stairs contained the rack,
which had been used within the pre-
sent century to inflict punishment.
T\i%CLofSt. Theodviie (12^^) contains
a monument with marble effigies of
a Count of Gruyeres, in sing^ar cos-
tume. The inhabitants of the town
are a lazy set, many of them pensioners
of a very rich Hospital here.

The language spoken by the people
of the district, a dialect of the Bo-
mansch (called, in German, Gruverin-
Welsch), is thought to prove their
descent from the Burguncuans. It is
a subject worthy the attention of tra-
vellers. The cQstrict is also famous
for its cheeses, and supplies from its
rich pastures a great part of the

142

ROUTE 43.— chIteait d'oex to aiglb.

SectL

40,000 centners (cwt.) of cheese which
canton Freyburg manufactures yearly,
and which is chiefly exported under
the name of Gruy^re.

The watch-tower of La Tour de
Treme was an outpost of the Counts
of Gruyeres.

3 m. Bulle (Boll)— (/««s : Cheval
Blanc ; Maison de Ville) — one of the
most industrious towns in the canton.
It contains 2000 Inhab., and is the chief
depot for the Gruyere cheese made
in the valleys of the Saarine and of
Charmey, and in the elevated plateau
of which it is the centre. It is 2300
ft. above the level of the sea; and if
the ages inscribed on the tombstones
form any test, it must be one of the
healthiest places in the world. There
is an old chateau, but the town is
modem, having been burnt in 1805.
It is distant about 18 m. from Erey-
burg, and the same from Vevay. A
diligence daily to Komont Stat, on the
Rly. from Freyburg to Vevay.

[From Bulle or Gruydres may be
made the ascent of the MoUson (6181
ft), commanding a magnificent view.]

Our course now turns S. along the
high road between these two places,
skirting the W. base of the Moleson to

11 m, Ghatel St Denis (Kastels)—
(7nn ; Maison de Ville) — a picturesque
village with an elevated castle on the
1. bank of the Veveyse. ^ m. S. of
it the road enters canton Vaud.

An excellent road, admirably en-
gineered, carried by an easy descent
m ziffzags down the steep hill towards
the beautiful lake Leman, conducts
the traveller to

8 m. Vevay (Rte. 55). The view from
this road is nearly as fine as from
the Jaman, so that you have Ao reason
to reeret the enormous bends which
it m^es, though they lengthen the
journey by several miles.

[A secluded route leads from Thun
to Gruyere as follpws : 2 J hrs. Wat-
terwyl, 2 hrs. Gumigel, 24 hrs.
Schwefelbad, 4 hrs. Schwarz See or
Lake of Omeinaz, 2^ hrs. Valsainte,
3 hrs. Gruyere.

The Baths of Gumigel {S782 ft.) are
much frequented by the Bernese. The
country is high and wooded. Sckwe^

felbad, or Bath of Ganterist^ is a de-
caying establishment in a treeless
country. The lake of Omeinaz (3464
ft.) is deservedly called the Schwartz
See. Hospitable quarters at a ne-
glected bathing establishment on its
W . shore. The surrounding landscape
is charming. The VcUsainte is a mo-
nastery in a smiling valley.]

ROUTE 43.

GhItEAU d'oex to AIGLE or BEX, BY
THE VALLEY D£S OSMONDS.

A bridle-path (carriage-road in pro-

fress) diverges to the 1. from the
igh road (Rte. 42) at Moulins, near
Chd,teau d*Oex, and leads in 5 hrs.
by Comballaz to Sepey, whence there
is a good carriage-road, by a long in-
cline of 6 J m., to Aigle.

The bridle-path mounts steeply for
J hr. Thenceforward it is a char^
road, and pretty level. In If m. our
path turns off to the rt, and imme-
diately crosses a stream by a bridge.
[The road that is quitted leads through
the F. d^Etivaz, whence easy moun-
tain-paths lead into the Ormond Des-
sus.] Hence 1} m. by Zecherette, a
scattered village on the rt. (where
milk and wine can be had). It li
skirted, not passed through. In ^ m.
another stream is crossed; then 1 m.
to Les Mosses, a straggling village on
elevated meadows. [The elevated
Lac Lioson is well worth a Tisit
Turning to the L from Les Mosses, h
may be reached in 1 hr. Ascend
from it in ^ hr. the ChavLsse (7996 fti
for the sake of its grand view over
the Diablerets, Dent du Midi, and lae
Leman. Hence by a new road, and
amidst pine-forests, rushing cascades,

^atzerlaruL

BOTTTE 43.-^SEPET. AIQLE.

143

TBUeys, and moimtams, the trayeller

umct at Bepey throagh the pictn-

resque Talley of Les Ormonds.] In

li m. the road forks (the 1. hand

Iffanch etoiaes the stream, and takes

in 5^ m. to Plans des Isles [see be*

loir^ ; (mr -way is to the tU, and leads

in { m. to Combaliaz, A rustic but

comfoTtaUe Inn and Pension (5000 ft.)

^charge 5 fr. a day), much frequented

in sammer for its mountain air and

sulphnreoDs mineral spring of some

oelebritj. It is seldom free from

snov bdbre tiie end of June. There

is not nnich Tiew from the place,

though many pretty excnpsions.

2m.Sepey {Inns: TEtoile (&ir),
H. des Alpes, pensions of a homely
kind, moderate in their charges, as
well as m accommodation, frequented
by Swiss, from June to the end of
August). It is a primiti-ve torwn.
The booses are entirely composed of
▼ood ; most of them are carved, and
ooyered vith Terses and texts from
theBbk.

The pasturages in this valley are
celebrated, and the cheese, cream,
and butter of Les Ormonds (** Ormond
Dessns '* abore Sepey, and " Dessons"
below it) equal any in the canton.

Vrom Sepey or le Forclaz the ascent
of the Ckamossaire may be made,
6035 ft. — A recompensing View,

Saasian to Sepey, by Col de Pilkm,

Sney may also be conTeniently
rWMliii from Bte. 42 by turning off
at &tten, and takixig a char to

^u, Gsteig (in French, Ch&telet).
Thnec a bridle-path over tiie Col de
i^Aato a level tract in the valley of
Ae ikmand Deasus,

dihrs., called Plan des Isles, where

ihen » a very favourite Pension and

AU,E, des Diablerets. Opposite to

HfSkct the Plan des Isles, opens out

'«ftbe grandest scenes in the Alps,

(httx de Champ, the head of the

of Ormond Dessus. It is

VMttfbonded by a precipitous range of

'Attestone-Tocks, shaped like a horse-

«ihee; not unlike the Cirque of Ga-

-wsmie, in the Pyrenees, over which

dash 5 or 6 waterfalls, the sources of
the Grande Eau, while above rise the
snow and jieaks of the Diablerets.
This scene is well worth a visit.

Here the char-road begins. It is bad.

l^m. VersPEglise {Pension and Inn :
Cerf, small but &ir), thence

6 m. to Sepey, where the valley of
Ormond Dessus falls into Ormond
Desaous.

[By the Col de la Croix the traveller
may descend by Grion to Bex, a stat.
on the Khone Rly.]

Sepey to Aigie, 6} m. The de-
scent is made in any kind of carriage
in 1 hr., the ascent in 2} hrs., by a
road remarkable for its beauty of con-
struction. It was conunenced by the
Vaudois Government in 1836, with
the intention of connecting the Sim-
plon with Thun, Interlaken, and the
German cantons at Chftteau d'Oex,
but, owing to the enormous expense
attending its formation, and the con-
tinual needful repairs, from snow and
other causes, it has not been continued
farther than Sepey. The road is
wide, and its firadual and easy ascent
around the sides of a seemingly im-
practicable mountain, to a height of
nearly 3000 ft., reflects high cr^t on
the en^eer who superintended the
work, M. Pichard, a Vaudois. At
the bottom of the valley, beneath the
feet of the traveller, rushes the Grande
Eau in a continual series of torrents
and cascades. In the distance, near
Aigle, the snowy tops of the Dent du
Midi glisten in contrast to the dark
forests of the Ormonds ; and the Dent
du Chamossaire, to the N., rears its
grey peak above the pasturages and
chalets that are everywhere scattered
on the mountun-sides.

Aigle {Inns: Beau Site; H. du
Midi J Victoria, very good), a stat. on
the Simplon Bly., is the best starting-
point for exploring the Valley des
Ormonds. There are numerous paths
among these mountains by which the
route may be varied.

Half a day may be spent in a very
pleasant trip from Sepey to Bex or
OUon, by crossing the Grande Eau on

144 R. 45. — BERNE TO LAUSANNE (and VEVAY), BY FREIBUHG. Sect. L

the bridge 1 m. below Sepey, to the
S.E., ascending the opposite slopes to
the Forclaz, then to a feasant cascade
and the Lake des Chavonnes (5876 ft.),
2| hrs. (this little sheet of water is
near 2 odiers of less note), and by fine
forests. The ch&lets of Bretaye, im-
mediately above it, afford cream and
milk. The top of the Pointe de
Chamossaire (6900 ft.) is well worth
ascent, for its fine panorama. 1} hr.
descent firom Bretaye leads to Che-
sieres (4000 ft.), a Tillage, where the
ch&let of the brothers Amigaet is
always crowded by visitors, as well as
the neighbouring Ch&iet ViUard, in the
face of the finest Alps of Savoy. 2
hrs.' from Ch^i^res will lead down to
Bex.

ROUTE 46.

BERNE TO LAUSANNE (AND VEVAY),
BY FREIBT7BO (BAIL).

Stations. Miles.

Bfimplltz

Freibuii; 30

Romont

Oron

Chexbres (Vevay). . . .
Laosaime 30

4 Trains daily to Freyburg in IJ hr.
— ^to Chexbres — Vevay in £^ hrs. ;
to Lausanne in 3i-4 hrs.

Quitting Berne Stat., the chain of

Bernese Alps and mountains of tke
Simmenthal appear.

Bilmplitz Stat. The Sense, wliich
divides canton Berne from Freyburg-,
and comes from Schwefelbad and
Omeinaz Lake (Bte. 42), is crossed.

Flamatt Stat.

[Diligence twice a-day to 4 m. Xiau-
pen,by Neueneck (/nti, tiorsch), on tJhe
Sense. It is famous for the battle in
which the Swiss confederates, under
Rudolph of Erlach, de£Bated the
mailed chivalry of Burgundy and
Suabia, 1339. A tower, erected 1853,
with a short inscription to comme-
morate the Tictory stands near the
spot where the mam battle raged.!

Tunnel beyond Flamatt Stat. l7ear

BaUiswyl is the Greod; Viaduct by
which the Saarine is crossed. It
is of cast-iron, 3000 tons being used
in its construction: length between
abutments, 1094 ft.; height above
water, 259 ft.

On entering canton Freyburg the
^uze wings and dark dress of the
remale peasantry of Berne are ex-
changed for broad-brimmed, flapping
straw hats and red petticoats ; while
the numerous crosses at the road-
side announce a Boman OaihoUc
canton.

Skirting the old walls we aoon
reach

Freyburg Stat, on the W, side of
the town, near the Jesuits' College.
Walk from this through the town and
cross the Suspension Bridge, thence rt.
to the bridge over the Gotteron, cross
it and descending the valley, pass the
Loretto chapel, whence tne view is
very pleasing, and re-enter the town
near the Arsenal.

The appearance of Freyburg from
the Berne road and the wire-oridge
is sin&^arly striking and picturesque,
as the road, winding round the
shoulder of the steep hill overlook-
ing the valley of the Saarine, l>rixigB
the traveller in view of the antiqns
battlements and numerous tow^^nsy
crowning the sunmiit of a pre-
cipitous rock on the opposite sim of
the gorge. Near the top of the hill
is seen a staring modem building,
like a manufactory, with 5 stories snd

Smtzerknd, boute 45.- — frkiburo. suspension bridge. 145

rnia; windows, once a Jesuits' Fen-
noDnat and convent ; next, the
Gotliic tower and church of St.
ISMu ; beyond appears the suspen-
sum-bridge, hnking together the two
ndei of the valley. Plreyiong to its
constniGtion the only way of reach-
ing the town from Berne was by
d^K(»£iig the steep hiU on the
one ak, by numerous circuitous
agags to the water. The road
thepcrotted the river 3 times b^
3 diftreDtlow bridges, after which it
inuoediitely ascended another slope
wio«Dyiteep. A diligence, or heavy
^^'^f'us^ performing wis meandering
^ wit route, required not much
less tliiB aa hour to pass through the
^', at present the traveller rolls
laxoiioBsljr over this beautiful bridge,
iUQdin2minates through a breach in
w6 dd booses, on the edge of the
F^°pioe,into the centre of the town.

to«%~(/nn«.' Zahringer Hof,
raosetothe bridge, very good; B.,
2fr.jtable^'h6te at 12^, 3fr.; at 5,
^fr-; tea H fr. View of the two
^i%es from the platform behind.
J m Merciers (Kr'amem), near the
*^^ good and cheaper : H. de
««ibnig, an especially good house
"BdobligiDg landlord.)

Freibnrg (10,560 Inhab., chiefly

^ Cath.), the capital of canton

^l^iig, is situated on a promontory

^■^ by the windings of the Saarine

vonne). Many of the houses stand

JJ^Tery edge of the precipice over-

*J^ the river, ana their quaint

JjMure, the long line of embat-

*JtDs stretching up hill and down

**»TOried by the ^ain of feudal

'J^^owers, and gateways of the

f^^ fortifications which still exist

**|erfect state, together with the

"Hv and romantic features of the

IpS^tf the Saarine, make the distant

2j^the town at once imposing and

fwpicturesque. The narrow dirty

■J*te and mean buildings of the in-

"•for do not altogether correspond

^ these outward promises of in-

Rpeiburg was founded in 1175, by
««ke Betchthold of Zahringen, father

of him who founded Berne, and was
long a free town. In 1343 it entered
into alliance with Berne, but after-
wards became subject to the Dukes of
Savo^ ; but having again become free,
was in 1481 admitted into the Swiss
confederation.

The Suspension Bridge^ the longest
of a single curve in the world, was
completed and thrown open in 1834 —
engineer M. Chaley, or Lyons. Its
dimensions, compared with those of
the Menai bridge, are as follows: —

Length. Elevation. Breadth.

Freibarg ... .905 It. 180 ft. SS ft. 11 in.
Menai 580 180 8S

It is supported on 4 cables of iron
wire, each containing 1056 wires, the
united strength of which is capable of
supporting 3 times the weight which
the Dridge will ever be likely to bear,
or 3 times the weight of 2 rows of
waggons, extending entirely across it.
The cables enter the ground on each
side obliquely for a considerable dis-
tance, and are then carried down ver-
tical shafts cut in the rock, and filled
with masonry, through which they
pass, being attached at the extremity
to enormous blocks of stone. The
materials of wliich it is composed are
almost exclusively Swiss; the iron
came from Berne, the limestone ma-
sonry from the quarries of the Jura,
the wood-work from the forests of
Freiburg. It was completed between
1830 and 1838, at an (expense of
about 600,000 fr. (24,000/. sterling),
and in 1834 was subjected to va-
rious severe trials to prove its
strength. First, 15 pieces of artil-
lery, drawn by 50 horses, and ac-
companied by 300 people, passed over
it at one time, and were collected in
as close a body as possible, first on the
centre, and then at the two extremities,
to try the effect of their concentrated
weight. A depression of a metre (39J
inches) was thus produced in the part
most weighed upon, but no sensible
oscillation was occasioned. A few
days after the bridge was opened by
the bishop and authorities of the town
accompanied by about 2000 persons,

146

BOUTE 45.— FREIBURG. CHURCH. ORGAN,

Sect. I.

who passed over it twice, in proces-
sion, preceded by a military band,
and keeping step. Nothing is more
remarkable in this beauti&l strac-
ture than the combination of sta-
bility with such apparent fragility.
The bridge does not contain one-
tenth of tne iron used in suspension
bridges of English construction.
It is well seen frY>m the platform
of the Zahringer Hof, from the old
road below it, and from the gorge
of Gotteron.

Another Wire Bridge, 640 feet Ions
and 317 high, has been suspended
across the romantic ^rge of Gotte-
ron, on the opposite side of the river
Saarine. It was finished in 1840. It
is not of such large dimensions as
that biult in 1834, but the wire
cables are attached immediately to
the solid rock on each side and the
point of suspension is higher on one
side than on the other, wmch gives it
the appearance of half a bridge. The
object of this mode of construction is
economy, the expense of building piers
of solid masonry from the bottom of
the valley being saved.

The Cathedral Church of 8t Nicholas
is rather a handsome Gothic building,
chiefly in the Flamboyant style (date
1285-1500). The exterior was carefully
restored in 1856. The portal under
the tower Tdate 1452) is surmounted
by a bas-relief, representing the Last
Judgment In the centre stands St
Nicholas, and above him is seated
the Saviour ; on the L hand an
angel is weighing mankind in a huge
pair of scales, not singly but by lots,
and a pair of imps are maliciously
endeavouring to pull down one scale,
and make the otner kick the beam;
below is St Peter, ushering the good
into Paradise. On the rt hand is the
reverse of this picture — a devil^ with
a pig's head, is dragging after him, by
a chain, a crowd of wicked, and car-
ries a basket on his back, also filled
with figures, apparently abou^ to pre-
cipitate them into a vast oaularon
suspmded over a fire, which several
•th«ff imps are stiitiDg. In the oor*

ner is Hell, represented by the jaws
of a monster, filled up to the teeth
with evil-doers, and above it is Satan,
seated on his throne.

The Organ, built by the late Aloys
MoSer, a native of tne town, is one
of the finest instruments in Europe.
The organist is allowed to play on it
for the gratification of travellers only
at a fixed hour, 8) p.m., except on cer-
tain feast days. Tickets are obtained
at the hotels. His fee is 12 fr. for a
party at any other time. The perform-
ance terminates with the imitation of
a storm, introducing the howling of the
wind, and the roarmg of the thunder,
interspersed with a few fiashes of
lightnmg from * Der Freischutz.' The
instrument has 64 stops and 7800 pipes,
some of them 32 ft. long.

Down to 1847 canton Freiburg
presented a remarkable instance of a
state with a constitution purely demo-
cratic, in which the chief influence
was exercised by the hierarchy. The
town of Freiburg was a stronghold of
the Boman Catholic priesthood: it is
the see of a bishop, who still styles
himself Bishop of Lausanne, although,
since the Reformation, the canton
Vaud is cut off from his diocese. It
contained no less than 9 convents
(5 for monks and 4 for nuns), 12
churches, and 10 chapels. The Jesuits,
while interdicted n'om most other
states of Europe, were here openly
tolerated, having been recalled, in
1818, by a decree of the Grand Coun-
cil of the canton.

The Jesuits* CorwerU, or college, was
founded in 1584 by Father Canisins,
who died in the oaour of sanctity at
the age of 77, and is interred in the
Jesuits' church, awaiting the honours
of canonisation, which have been, it is
said, long promised to his remains.
The collese was suppressed by a
decree of the Diet, 1847.

2%e Pemionnai, or Jesuits' School,

the most conspicuous building in the

town, was destined for the reception

I of about 400 pupilsi many of them

Mzerland,

EOUTE 45. — FREIBURG. JESUITS.

147

diildren of the Boman Catholic
noblesse of France and Gennany,
irfao vera sent hither for their edu-
cation, llie School and Conyent
have been turned into a Cantonal

sehool once 1848.

•

^ Anong the cariosities of Freiburg
is ihe aneient trunk of a Lime-iree,
planted, according to tradition, on the
<by of the battle of Morat, in 1476.
Toe storjr relates diat a youngs Frei-
bm;^ who had fought in the Dattle,
HDum to bring home the good news,
ran the whole way, and arrived on
this not, bleeding,, out of breath, and
soeznaosted by fatieue, that he fell
down, and had barely time to cry
"Victory!" when he expired. The
Imh of lime which he carried in
his hand was immediately planted,
uid grew into the tree, of which this
decayed trunk, 20 ft. in circumference,
is tfaeraoiuns. Its branches are sup-

jifflted by stone pillars.
In the Place N. Dame is a bronze

statne of I^re Greeoire Girard

(1765-1850), <*qiii a b^n merits de

ipatrie.'*

Kear to it is the ancient Baihhaus,
a baUding of no consequence, but
standing on the site of tue Duke of
Zahringen's castle.

A long flight of steps leads from
fe down to the lower town and river
*^: it is called the Bue Court Chemm,
*ni the roofs of some of its houses
^ as pavement for the street above
it, eaQed Mue Grande Fontame*

,Tke canton Freiburg is singularly
^vided between the German and
^^^ languages ; and the line of
^^ttition, extending from the S.E.
coner to the N.W.» passes through
^iown of Freiburg, so that in the
nnier town French is spoken, and in
^Jovrer German. This distinction,
Werer, is wearing out

The walls and gates of the town
*n perfbet specimens of ancient forti-*
ibttiQa, «^d contribute, f^oQg with the
general ^ of antiquitiy. tq qarry bfM!k
we ipeotator to a remote state of

society. One tower, near the Pre-
fecture (thrown across the street, and
now converted into a prison), has ac-
quired the name of La Mawaiae Tour,
because it contained the rack. Though
the torture had been disused in tne
canton for many years, it was not
legally abolished until 18301

About 3 m. lower down the valley
of the Saarine is the Grotto ofSt Mag-
dalene, a hermitage and chapel cut out
of the sandstone rock, by a native of
Gruy^res named Dupre, between 1670
and 1680. Its wonders have been ex-
aggerated by the euide-books, and it
is scarce worth a visit

Diligences twice . daily to Morat,
about 10 m. (Bte. 46), corresponding
with the steamer to Neuchatel, to
Bulle and Fayeme.

On quitting Freiburg Stat, the
train overlookB (L) the deep valley of
the Saarine, and the Mont Mol^son.
1. See the Nunnery of La Fille Dieu,
on nearing

Homont Stat, {Inns: Cerf; Couronne),
picturesquely seated on a hill above
the Glane. The Castle was founded
by the Kings of Burgundy in the 10th
centy., and has a round Tower of solid
masonry of that age worth notice.
Soon aner leaving Bomont, a glimpse
of Mont Blanc may be gained, and,
beyond

V anderens Stat, of the Jura range.

Kue (/mm ; H. de Ville ; Fleur de
Lys) is a picturesque town, with castle,
in the vale of the Broye.

Oron le Chdtelet Stat,

Chexhres Stat, This is the station
for Vevay.

\flmnibusesy to and from every train ;
fare 1 fr., lugeage extra; a drive of
rather more than 1 hr. The return
(ascent) takes longer. Fine views.]

On emerging from the rly. tunnel
beyond Chexbres, a magnificent view.
The Lake of Geneva, Valley of Rhone,
Dent de Jaman, and other mountains
beyond.

H 2

148

ROUTE 46l — BERNE TO LAUSANNE.

Sect I.

Gnmd Yant Stat.

La ConTenkm Stat^ near the Til-
lage Latry.

A long Yiadoct of 9 aidics next
carries the line over a vallejr through
whidk nms the Tiadoct of the GeneTa
and Lausanne Blj. (W. of Switz-
erland). The 2 lines unite before
entering

LoMstauie Jtmd, StaL (in Ste. 55).

ROUTE 46.

BEKSE TO LAUSANNE, BT MORAT AND
AYENCHES (AVENTICCTM).

Post road.

6i posts = .

56i Eng.

Posts. Eng. m.

Berne.

Ottminea

. , , u

= lU

Mont .

. . . f

= 6*

. . . li

= 11*

f jT^fUTinft

• • • O

= 21

The most expeditions route from
Berne to Lausanne is by rly. (Rte.
45) . Those who enjoy drlTing through
a fine fintitfnl country, with much
pleasing hill scenery, and several ob-
jects of interest on Uie way, may ad-
here to the old carriage-road, and will
find it agreeable to break the journey-
by sleeping at Payeme. Diligence to
Morat m 3 hrs.

Soon after leaving Berne a distant
view of the Alps is obtained on the 1.
The Saarine is crossed by a covered
Bridge at

Gummen, and a little fisirther on the
road enters Canton Freyburg.

Morat — Germ. Murten — (^Inns :
Couronne ; Croix Blanche) — a thriv-
ing town of 2300 Inhab., prettily
situated on the E. shore of the lake
of Morat, on the high road from
Berne, Basle, and Soleure, to Liau-
sanne. Its picturesque and arcaded
streets are overlooked by an old
Castle ; and it is still surrounded by
feudal walls and watchtowers — the
same which, for 10 days, withstood
the artillery of Charles the Bold.
In the Gymnasium is a coUectioix of
old arms, guns, and other relics of
the fight.

* < There is a spot should not be pa»'d in vain —
Morat I the proud, the patriot field I Where

man
May eaze on ghastly trophies of the slain.
Nor Slush for those who conqner'd on that

plain.
Here Burgundy bequeathed his tombleas host,
A bony heap tnrough ages to remain ;
Themselves their monument." Byrmu

Saterland.

KOUTE 46.^-HORAT. AVENCHES,

149

The battle of U76, which has
rendered this otherwise insignificant
town fmoas all oyer the world,
WM fought under its walls. The
Swis wre drawn up along the
heiglite s litde to the S. W., and no-
thing could resist their impetuous
diMJge. The loss of the Bureundians
w« inmeme : 15,000 dead bodies
vereJeftoQthe field, and thousands
Poisliedmthe lake. The bodies of
the sliin were coUected by the Swiss
Ml M Ossuary, which, after standing
^jwn, was destroyed in 1798 by
we sQiaiers of the Burgundian Legion
^ the Bevolationary French army,
">»wto effiMje this record of their
Meestors' disgrace and defeat. The
JTJjleiders were the band of the 75th
half-lirigade.

Itshonld, However, be recollected

fo«t the Swiss were not here defend-

'iJg their own country, but were in-

JMJDg the territories of the Duke of

^^y, of which the present Pays de

'Md then formed part, because the

nobJes there had taken the part of the

Me of Burgundy, and that the war

With Charles of Burgundy had been

partly occasioned by the intrigues and

bnberyofLouisXI.

BjTon, who yisited the spot in 1816,
tt^— « A few bones still remain, not-
withstanding the pains taken by the
^Jiignndians for ages (all who passed
™*t way removing a bone to their
J^ontiy), and the less justifiable
"''Allies ot the Swiss postilions, who
Juried them off to sell for knife-
JJJpes—a purpose for which the
'"teness, imbibed by the bleaching
^ptif bad rendered them in great
JJ?!^ Of those relics I ventured
wjing away as much as may have
J*fe a quarter of a hero, for which
jj^wle excuse is, that, if I had not,
^^ next passer-by might have per-
^^ them to worse uses than the
J^'^fiil preservation which I intended
for them »—j52/ron.

oiooe Byron visited the spot, the
^'^•ttered remains have been collected
^ buried, and an Obelisk was set
«P over them (in 1822), by the
^ton, at the road-side, about J m.
o* of Morat, on the site of the bone-

house. The inscription belonging to
it, and one or two cannon, made of
iron hoops, used in the battle, are
still preserved in the Toum^houae of
Morat.

The best view of the battle-field
and lake is from the hill of Mimch"
tcylerf near an enormous lime-tree,
36 ft. in circumference, and 90 ft.
high, still in fuU vieour and luxuri-
ant foliage : it is probably at least 600
years om, since, accordmg to tradi-
tion, the Swiss held a council of war
before the battle under its shade. Ac-
cording to Ebel, the tree is 36 ft. in
diameter; and the American, Cooper,
in consequence, took a long walk up
the hill, under a hot sun, to see it.
" There we went, dragging our weary
limbs after us, to discover that for
' diam^tre * we ought to have read
' circonference.' I wish the erratum
had been in his book instead of mine."

The lake of Morat is about 5 m.
long and 3 broad: it is separated by
a narrow flat tract of land from the
lake of Neuchatel, but empties itself
into it through the river Broye.
Steamer by it to Neuchatel.

[About 5 m. beyond Morat is

Avenches — Germ. Wiflisburg —
{Inns: Couronne; Hotel de Ville), an
ancient walled town of 1750 Inhab.,
situated in the S.W. angle of the area
once occupied by Aventicumt the Bo-
man capital of Helvetia. It appears
to have existed before the time of
Ceesar. it attained the height of its
prosperity, and a population of 60,000
souls, in the reign of Vespasian and
Titus; and it was destroyed, first by
the Alemanni, and afterwards by At-
tila. The ancient walls may be traced
for nearly 4 m., in some places 14 ft.
thick ana 15 ft. high; they extended
down to the lake, where they formed
a small mole and harbour. The mo-
dern .town fills but one-tenth of the
space they enclosed — the rest is mea-
dow-land or corn-field. About a mile
before reaching Avenches the road
from Morat is carried through a
breach in these ancient fortifications.
On the L is seen a tower, which,
though ruined, is the most perfect of
the Boman edifices here. They owe

150

BOUTE 46.— AVENCHES. PATEBKE.

Sect. I.

their total destruction to their massy
masonry having been for ages re-
garded as a quarry out of which the
neighbouring houses and Tillages have
been built. Close to the modem
town, on the L of the road, a solitary
Corinthian column, 37 ft high, is stiU
standing, and has, for a long time,
served the storks as a pedestal to
build their nests on, whence it is
called the Cigognier.

" By a lone wall, a lonelier column rears
A j^y and grief-worn aspect of eld days :
"Tia tne last remnant of the wreck of years.
And looks as with the wild bewildere^l gaze
Of one to stone con-verted by amaze.
Yet still with consciousness; and there it

stands.
Making a marvel that it not deeavs,
"When the coeval pride of human hands,
Levell'd Aventicum, hath strevr'd her subject

lands.**

Other traces of fidlen si^endour,
such as the line of city walls, broken
cornices, inscriptions, oistinct remains
of an amphitheatre^ and fragments of
an aqueduct, exist, and are interesting
evidence of the extent of the largest
Roman colony in Helvetia.

Tacitus has recorded the history of
Julius Alpinus, the chief man of the
city, who was condemned to death for
aiding and abetting an insurrection
against the Boman Emp. Yitellius, in
ignorance of the murder of his rival
Galba (a.i>. 69).

1500 years after this event an In-
scription was reported to have been
found here, bearing these words: —
"Julia Alpinula: Hie Jaceo. lofe-
licis patris mfelix proles. Dese Aven-
ti» Sacerdos. Exorare patris necem
non potui : Male mori in mtis illi erat.
Yixi annos xxiiL (I, Julia Alpinula,
lie here — ^unfortunate child of an un-
fortunate parent, priestess of the God-
dess Aventia. 1 failed in averting,
by my prayers, the death of my father :
the Fates had decreed that he should
die ignominiously. I lived to the age
of 23.)" Byron says — ** I know of no
human composition so affecting as
this, nor a history of deeper interest.
These are the names and actions
which ought not to perish, and to
which we turn with a true and healthy
tenderness, from the wretched and

glittering detail of a confbsed mass of
conquests and battles, with which the
mind is roused for a time to a faHao .
and feverish sympathy, frx)m whence
it recurs at length with all the nausea
consequent on such intoxication*"

** ...oh I sweet and sacred be the name I —
Jnlia— the daughter, the devoted — gave
Her yoath to Heaven ; her heart, beneath m

claim
Nearest to Heaven's, broke o'er a &ther*8

grave.
Justice is sworn 'gainst tears, and hers woidd

crave
The life she lived in ; bat the judge was jnat.
And then she died on him she could not

save.
Their tomb was simple, and without a bnaty
And held within one am one mind, anm

heart, one dust.**

The critical acuteness of Lord
Mahon has destroyed t^e romance of
this story by proving incontestably
that the above pathetic epitaph, the
cause of such poetic sympathy, is
a forgery of the 17th century,* and
that no such person as Julia Alpinula
ever existed.

The feudal Castle was built by a
Count Wivilo, in the 7th century,
whence Wiflisburg, the German name
of Avenches. The country here is
interesting by the richness of the
cultivation, the beauty of the fruit-
trees, and the comfort apparently en-
joyed by the population.

At DomcHdier^ 2 m. from Avenches^
a road strikes off on the rt to Frei-
burg (Rte. 45V1

Fayeme — Grerman Peterlingen —
(/fuu; Bar, is newer, but not better
than the Hotel de Yille). There are
two churches in this waUed town —
the one, now turned into a Jffalle cat
Ble, is in the Romanesque style, and
very ancient. Bertha Queen of Bur-
gundy, the founder of it and of the ad-
joining convent (suppressed since the
Reformation, and now a school), -was
buried in it The curiosity of the
place is Queen Bertha*s Saddle, a
cumbrous machine kept in the parish
church, from which it appears that,
in her days, it was the rashion for
ladies to nde en cavalier; but Bertha
spun as she rode, having a distaff

* See ' Quarterly Review,* June, 164«.

EOUTE 48.

BEBNE TO NEUCHATEL AND LAUSANNE.

3^ posto SB 31 £ng. m.

SunbciifllMf. BOUTE 48.— BEBNB to KKOCHItEL and LAUSANNE. 151

¥>lantodott die pmnnieL In the same
chm^ is Bertha's tomb, an antique
>&ico(^ii8 disooYered 1818, now
ooyendirith a slab of black marble.

A oofia^ioad runs firom Fayeme
by Estanyer to TTerdun, partly near
tae lake of HeuchateL That to Lau-
»ume ttcends the valley of the Broye,
pasu^JBenniez, to

-^^Hons (Lobsingen), with a castle,
fonoerlya hunting-seat of the Bishop
oflduniBe.

^^Laoens the hieh-road leads
to ^

ifo((d»-.6erm. MUden^(Jm: H.

VictOB^notgood.) This town (1500

lJiba2x)was the Boman Minidwwm^

iienoe its modem name. A Gothic

chorcli, recalling the Cathedral of

Laittanae, is worth notice.
IM ^ Tillage of (karoiuge, a road

tons off oil the L to Vevay.l
Thestagefirom Moudon to Lausanne,

aboflt 1511L, consists of nearly 7 of long

aodiooessint ascent, and 5 of descent.

Ezba liorses (Renfort) are required
^r t&e first From the summit and S.
slope of the /oro^, for that is the name
of the hill, a beautiful view expands
OTer the Leman liake ; and in clear
weather the snows of Mont Blanc and
the high Alps border the horizon.

It is a driye of 3 hrs. from Moudon

LiuaAHNB (Rte. 55).

FMta.

Eng.m.

Berne.

Aarbexg

•

• 1«

a 12

Anet

•

. 1

s 9

KeachAtel

. U

= 10

Neuchfttel may be reached from
Berne : — a. By rlv. direct to Bienne, 2^
or 3 hrs. (Rte. 1); thence by rly. to
Neiicheltel (but there is delay owing to
the trains not corresponding). 6. By
rail to Freiburg, and dilifi;ence thence
to Estarayer, on the Jjake, which is
crossed by steamer to NeuchateL
c. By Morat and lake steamer, Bte.
19. dU By the Post-road diligences
trayel daily in 5J hrs.

The road passes by Seedorf^ a village
named from the pretty little lake, to

Aarberg (Irm: Krone) on the Aar;
an old castie, at times surrounded by
the riyer. Near the ch. is the old
palace of the Counts of A., who sold
the town to Berne, 1351. 3 m. higher
up the river is Lyss Stat on the rly.
from Berne to Bienne.

The road to Neuchfttel is carried
through Siselen and

Anetf or 7ns (^Inn: Bar), a village
on an eminence, from which the Alps
are well seen in clear weather, with
the lakes of Morat and Neuch&tel
near at hand. The lake of Bienne
lies about 3 m. to the N. of this place.
You overlook from this the Aarberger
moor, a tract of morass, 9 m. lone; by
6 m. wide, which has never been
drained, owine to the great cost of
embanking. Breti^ge (Sratteln) is a
watering-place at tne foot of hills
2^ m. Is. of Anet. An excellent

152

ROUTE 48.— KECCHiTia.. CHimCH.

Sect.1.

road from Anet to Morat opens
a ready commimication between Neu-
chatel and Freiburg. Skirting the
hill of. Jolimont, we cross the river
ThieU, or Zihl, through which the
waters of the lake of Nenchatel are
dischargred into that of Bienne. It
forms tne boundary-line of cantons
Berne and NeuchateL The Castle,
close to the bridge, is now a prison.
A road runs from this to Erlach (Cer- i
lier), a town of 1000 Inhab., on a spur \
of the Jolimontf which projects into j
the lake like a wall or causeway,
nearly as far as Bousseau's Island,
The castle of Erlach was the cradle
of the noble family of that name:
among its members was Budolph, the
hero of Laupen in 1339.

TheBiwy. from Bienne to Neuchfttel
is reached near St. Blaize Stat, on the
margin of the lake of Neuchatel,
[Pr€&rger, near St Blaize, is a lunatic
asylum for 130 patients, with exten-
sive grounds. The highest class pays
5 fr. daily for food; the 2nd class pay
2 fr.; and Neuclultelois only 75 c At
Montmirail is a Moravian institution
for educating young ladies.] The road
continues along the lake at the foot of
the Chaumont, as far as

NeuchItel Stat, high up above
the lake (Germ. Neuenbure) — {Inns:
Hdtel Believue, a larse building close
to the lake, the best : Br. from 1 fr. 50 c.
upwards ; D. at 1, 3 fr. ; at 4, 5 fr. : pen-
sion, summer and winter. Faucon. H.
des Alpes, at the waterside, good. H.
de Commerce, or Ancre. H. du Lac,
clean), the chief town of the canton
(10,537 Inhab. Prot.), is built upon the
steep slope of the Jura mountains, and
along a narrow shelf of alluvial de-
posits brought down by the river
Seyon, gained by embankments from
the water, and by turning the river
into a tunnel cut for 500 ft through
the rock. Several streets have been
built on the land thus acquired.
Except as the threshold of Switzer-
land, it has little to interest the pass-
ing traveller: it has but little trade,
and not much activity, except on
market-days. Still, to one newly ar-
rived in the country, the first, and.

under all circumstances, glorious view ^
of the Alps from the heights of the .
Jura above the town, and occasionally
from the upper windows of the hotels,
must appear magnificent ; and should ^
the sky be clear, Neuchfttel, with its ,
picturesque old castle, its numerous ,
white country-houses, its vine-clad ',
hills, and its blue expanse of lake, '
will be pronounced beautiful.

The French princes of the house of [
Chalons (Longueville) were, at least
nominally, the sovereiras of this
little state : though ^he subjects
maintained jealously their privil^s
and liberties, allowing theirprinoes
but very limited authority. When the
house of Chalons became extinct in
1707, the King of Prussia was chosen,
as the nearest descendant by the female
line of the former lords of Neu-
ch&tel, to be sovereign or stadtholder.
The sovereignty of me house of Bran-
denburg was interrupted by Napoleon,
who made Marshal Berthier Prince
of Neuchatel, but was resumed in 181 5,
and continued until lately. Though
long an ally of the Swiss cantons,
Neuchatel was not formally incorpo-
rated as a member of the Confederation
until 1814. There was a i^reat struggle
in 1848 between the aristocratic and
the democratic parties, the latter
assisted occasionaUy by French sym-
pathisers from across the frontier.
The constitution, as settled in 1848, is
upon the regular French republican
model. In 1856 this affair was finally
settled under the mediation of the
great powers, and theKing^ of Prussia
renounced his rights and title.

The Old Castle on the heiffht» now
converted into government offices, was
originally the residence of the "French
princes.

The Church, adjoining the castle,
is a Gothic budding of me 12th cen*
tury: but the E. end, in the ronnd
style, is older. Within the chancel is
a Gothic monument, including 15 life-
sized effigies, erected 1372 by one of
the Counts of Neuch&tel; there is also
a monument to Farel, the reformer,
who was buried on the terrace in front

AB^bsertana.

ItOtrrE 48. — GYttKASinif. chaumont.

153

\mttiie situadon of his grave is un-
biawD. There is a pleasing view from
ibis terrace.

In tbe Palais Boiifi;emoiit, or Mus^e,
NJ.oftbe town, is tne Picture Gallery,
ccotaiiuiig some very good productions
■ of modem artists, (Siiefly native of
l^raieh Switzerland, as : — Calame*8
Monte Boia, Rosenlaui, &c ; Ch, Girar-
dit, Lidj Claypole, and Cromwell;
T^duij^my^ a Flemish bridal pro-
cessioQ; Leopold Robert (a native of
Camx^le-Foiids), Ch. of St. Paul at
Borne afltor the Fire, £oman Oxen,
also portraits of Frederick the Great
and oAer Prussian sovereig^ns.

The Oynmasium, a handsome build -
iogf near the lake, erected by the
town, as a public school, contains a
▼Ofy interesting Museum of Natural
Mistmj^ including good collections in
a»Io^,concholoffy, and geology. The
speamma of rocks and fossils illus-
trating the structure of the Jura
mountains are very complete and in-
stmctiye. This institution owes much
to the zeal and talents of Professor
Agassiz, a native of Orbe in Vaud,
T^nose discoveries in the history of
fi)ssil fishes have thrown so much
light on that branch of study. The
town has also built a Ladies* School
(1853), where a good cheap educa-
tion is given to girls. The Fublic
lArary contains 30,000 vols., and
«aong the BISS. 2000 letters written
fcy J. J.Rousseau, 1760-1770.

A fine view from the Observatory,
i hr. N.E. of Neuchatel. Swimming-
^ in the lake, E. of the Bellevue H.
Ilie charitable institutions of this
town, for which it is indebted to its
own citizens, are on a very splendid
scale. In 1786 one David Pury left
iiis whole fortune of 4,000,000 of
liyies (166,000?.) to endow an hos-
pitaJ and poorhouse, and for other
pn^wses connected with the improve-
ment of his native town. He had
quitted it a poor lad, without money
or friends, had gradually, by industry
and talent for business, increased his
means, becoming, in turn, jeweller.

owner of mines, banker, and, finally,
millionnaire, at Lisbon, where he died.
His statue has been set up in front of
the Gymnasium by his fellow citizens.

The Hospital Pourtales is a similar
monument of the benevolence and
public spirit of a townsman. It is
open to people of all religions and
countries alike.

Several of the richest bankers, mer-
chants, &c., in France, are Neucha-
telois by origin.

English Church Service twice on Sun-
days at the Oratoire des Bercles.

Those who would enjoy one of the
finest distant views of the Alps, with
the lakes of Neuchatel, Morat, and
Bienne in the foreground, and the long
range of the Jura on the N., should
ascend to the summit of the Chaumont,
the hill immediately above Neuchatel.
It is 1^ hour's walk, and a good car-
riage road leads thither in 1^ hour.
It IS 3580 feet above the sea-leveL
The view comprehends the whole
array of Alps, from the Titlis to
Mont Blanc, and is said to be fine^
even than that from the Weissenstein«
It must, however, be borne in mind,
that the atmosphere is seldom perfectly
clear. Inn on the top, H. du Chateau,
charges moderate. A good hotel :
100 beds; reading-room, &c.

On the slope of the hill, about 2
m. above the town, lies the largest
boulder-stone known on the Jura; it
is called Pierre ci Bot (toad-stone), and
is situated in a wood, near a farm-
house; it is 62 feet long- by 48 broad,
and is calculated to contain 14,000
cubic feet. It is of g^nite, similar to
that of the Great St. Bernard, from
which part of the Alps it probably
came, as there is no similar rock
nearer at hand; yet it -exhibits no
symptoms of attrition, all its angles
being perfectly sharp. The entire S.
slope of the Jura, a limestone forma-
tion, is strewed with these granite
blocks, which, ftvm the nati^>e of
the stone, must have all been derived
from the high Alps. Their presence
in this spot was long a mystery, but
is now pretty generally attributed to
the operation of enormous glaciers

154

BOITTE 48.— GORGE OF THE SEYON.

Sect. I.

coyering a large portion of Switzer-
land and carrying these blocks on
their surface, or else to the operation
of floating icebergs operating as rafts
on a sreat lake or inland sea.

*Tnose who dislike so lone a walk
may enjoy extensive and beantifcd
views of the Bernese Alps and Mont
Blanc from the Noiraigue Stat, of
the Pontarlier Rly. (Rte. 51), or
from the Hautes - Geneveyes stat.
of the Chanx-de-Fonds Bly. (Rte.
50).

The Gorge of the Seyon, immedi-
ately behind Neuchatel, is a sinenlar
scene, and those who find little to
amuse them in the town wiU not re-
pent a walk to explore it, though its
recesses are only to be reached by
scrambling and climbine. It is a
deep narrow fissure, dfeaving the
centre of the chain of the Jura, and
allowing the river Seyon to escape
from the Val de Buz into the lake of
Neuch&teL The section it presents
of the strata of the Jura limestone
will prove particularly Instructive to
the geologist. In one spot they may
be observed curved and fractureo,
probably by the upheaving force from
. below, which first broke this crevice
in the mountain. Though in winter a
furious torrent sweeping everything
before it, it is reduced in summer to a
noisome driblet of water, exhaling
unwholesome effluvia. A tunnel, de la
Trom du Seyon, has, in consequence,
been made through the rock at the
bend before allud^ to, for the purpose
of carrying its waters entirely clear of
the town into the lake, at a consider-
able distance S. of its former outlet.
This public work was executed out
of the Pury ftmd without levying any
imposts on the townsfolk.

The principal produce of the can-
ton is foine; the oest sorts resemble
ordinaire Burgundy. The red wines
of Gortaillod and Derri^re Moulins,
and the white grown between Auvor-
nier and St Blaise, are most in repute ;
they are a^eeable as sparkling wines.

The chief mamrfacture is that of
watches and clocks, of which nearly a
million are exported annually : the
central seats of it may be said to be

the valley of Chanx de Fonda and
Locle (Rte. 50) ; but much is done in
the town of Neuchatel, in Sonvillier,
Sonceboz, and the large villages of
the Val St Imier ; Sonvillier making
60,000 watches yearly, and St Imier
a still larger numlxHr. Most of the
watches sold at Geneva are made in
the canton of Neuchatel ; the dealers
at Geneva contracting for all the good
ones, and leaving the bad.

Railways to Locle and Ghaux de
Fonds; — to Paris, by Pontarlier and
Dijon (Rte. 51) (this is the most direet
and the shortest- route frx>m Paris to
Switzerland); — toYverdun, Lausanne,
and Geneva; — to Bienne, Basle, and
Lucerne. So that it is brought into
easy and rapid communication with
all the ffreat towns in Switzerland.
The station is on a heig^ht above the
town, and may be reached by shady
by-paths.

Steamers cross the lake from Neu-
chatel to Morat and Estavayer, on
the way to Freyburg and Berne.

BOUTE 49. — ^BIEKNIE TO TVEBDra.

155

ROUTE 49.

BIES5E TO T7ERDUN AND LAUSANNE,
BTIEEUEES OF BIENNE AND NEU-

Calm.-RAILWAT.

^ma to Neuchatel, 18 m., Bly.

Neochitd to Tverdun, 23 m.

Bly.ljlL

iTenbn to Lausanne, 26| m. lUy.

Sme is described in Bte. 3.
J^jIj. to Neuchatel passes near
Mil, II Tillage on the borders of the
pfi Tith a picturesque castle, flanked
DJiJiiid towers and surmounted by a
*aDs<puirekeep. The lords of Nydau,
an extinct branch of the former lords
o^enchatel, were foes of Berne ; their
J^giold now bears on its front the
Bemese bear, painted of colossal di-
1, and is converted into the
salt-warehouse. From the
._ - of the hill near Belmont a good
^v is obtained of the lake and of
St Peter's Isle, rt., near a fir-wood,
^^ an obelisk, by way of monument
te tbe Sv?is8 who iell here doing battle
"gwnst the French 1798.
The ffihl (Thiele), which drams the
''^ofBienne, passes near Kidau.

Since the opening of the railway
J^^'Den have ceas^ to navigate the
)**fof Bienne. The trains Urn along
/ Jj V.bank and command a fine view
^^' but the Jura chain is hid.
^n-TwannStat. (/n»,Bear). Bow
watiinay be had here to visit the
island.

T^Lake of Bienne (German Sieler

fj) 18 about 10 m. long, and nearly

3 hroti It is 8 feet lower than the

^6 <tf Neuchatel, whose waters it

^m at its S. extremity by the

piele, discharging them again at the

"^ comer, through a continuation

^.the same river. Its banks are

neither bold nor striking, but It pos*

•^sses much quiet beauty of scenery.

although it owes its celebrity chiefly
to Bousseau's residence on it, and to
his somewhat extravagant praLses.
[The Isle St Pierre, on which ne took
refuge for 2 months, in 1765, after his
proscription at Paris, and his pre-
tended stoning at Motiers (Bte. 51),
is situated about 6 m. from Bienne.
Boats may be hired at almost all the
villages on the lake to row to it.
Carnages may be sent on frt)m Bienne
to Gleresse, a village opposite the
island, to wait The island, a pretty
object^ is a ridge of sandstone, rising
12 ft. above the lake, and prolonged
southwards, under ^ater, to the hill
called Jolimont It is crowned by a
grove of magnificent old oaks, the
shade of which in summer is most re-
freshing.

Bousseau's room is preserved nearly
as he left it, except that its walls, doors,
shutters, and windows are scribbled
over with names of all nations. To
escape the importunities of curious
visitors he usea to dimb up by a stove,
through a trap-door (still shown)
into the gpirret, and frequently, when
informed by his host that a party had
come expressly to see him, refused to
appear — ** Je ne suis pas ici dans une
menagerie."]

The most extensive peat-moss in
Switzerland lies on the S.£. shore of
the lake of Bienne. The Gothic abbey
of St. Jean is now a manufactory^
where the peat is condensed and
transmuted mto benzine oil, petro-
leum, and pigments. An ancient
lacustrine village has been dug out of
the peat, 1000 ft. from the present
shore.

4 m. NeutmiUe Stat. (Germ. Neueri"
stadt) {Inns: Couronne, or Pension
Grether, out of the town on the S.
side, surrounded by as much shade as
the vineyards will afford), a thriving
little town of 1200 Inhab. (here French
is spoken), on the edge of the lake,
at the foot of the Chasseral, whose
summit (4955 ft.) may be reached in
4 hrs.; by carriage-road to the village
of Nodz 3 hrs., path thence to summit
1 hr.

On the opposite side of the lake,
near its S. extremity, stands Erlach

156

ROUTE 4d.— LAC DE NEUCHlTfiL. GBANDSOK. Sect. !•

(Cerlier), at the foot of the JoU-
mont, a hill of sandstone, which
sends out the spur prolonged into the
Isle St. Pierre, producing shallows
covered with reeds stretching into the
lake. This hiU is remarkable for the
number of snakes to be found upon it

Lcmderon Stat, is the picturesque
old Swiss town near the mouth of
the very shallow river Thielet or
Zihl, through which the waters of
the lake of Neuch&tel find their wav
into the lake of Bienne. After
passing under a wooden bridge and
then under an ancient stone brids^e,
close to which is the castle of Thiele,
the river becomes exceedingly nar-
row and crooked, and difficult to na-
vifirate

The lake of Neuchatel is about 25
m. long and 7 m. wide; 475 ft. deep,
and 1420 ft. above the sea: the lake of
Bienne is 3 ft. lower. The Jura
mountains form one side of the lake,
the other side is comparatively flat;
and the scenery, though not unpleas-
ing, is tame.

Emerging from a tunnel the train
reaches

St. Blaize Stat. The line continues
to rise until it overlooks the whole lake.

NeuchAtel Junct. Stat. (Rte. 48).

The Swiss Western Kailway. Trains
to Lausanne in 2}, 3^ hrs. At first
our line runs side by side with that
to PontarUer ; about a mile from
Keuchatel the railroad crosses the
glen of Serri^res by a lofty viaduct.
At the bottom of the gorge runs the
road, over a handsome stone bridge
built by Marshal Berthier. Near it is
a little hamlet, composed of a group
of water-mills, turned by a re-
markable stream, risin^^ in the head
of the dell and falling into the lake,
after a course of not more than ^ a
mile. Though it remains, as it were,
but a few minutes above ground, it
rises in sufficient force and volume to
turn a wheel within 200 yards of its
source, and subsequently sets in mo-
tion several others, both above and
below the bridge. It is fed from
reservoirs within the mountain, and
is probably to be identified with

some of those singular streams wliich
bury themselves in various places
among the cavernous range of ike
Jura.

The rly. descends towards

Auvemier Junct. Stat., where tliai
to Pontarlier turns rt. Our line also
quits the lake to rejoin it beyond
Bevaix.

[About 3 m. farther is ColumLbier,
once the seat of the Scotch Maarslial
Keith, the friend and general of
Frederick the Great ; he was gover-
nor of Neuchatel. Cortaillod, hy the
water-side, produces one of the best
wines in tne canton. The village
Boudri, on the Beuse, was the birth-
place (1764) of the demagogue Ma-
rat!

lEevaix Stat.

Gorgier St. Anbin Stat. From this
the ascent of the Creux duYent ^Rte.
51) may be made. rt. is the well-pre-
served castle of Vamnarcus, beyond
which the canton de Vaud is entered.
' Rly. crosses part of lake on an em-
bankment.

Concise Stat. {Inn: Ecu de France).
More than 800 stone axes, chisels,
and other tools were dredged up from
the lake near this in 1861.

Near Gorcelles, at the road-side
stand 3 upright blocks of granite 8 to
10 ft. high, by some supposed to bave
been raised by the Swiss as a memo-
rial of the victory of Grandson, but
more probably of Druidic origin.

Grandson Stat, — Unn: Lion d'Or)
—a town of 890 Inhab. The rly.
passes through the enclosure of the
venerable Castley now converted into
a snuff-manuiactory, on an eminence
above the lake. It is historically
remarkable because* before the bat-
tle of Grandson it resisted for 10
days the assaults and artillery of
the Burgundian army. Wben at
length the garrison, reduced by fam-
ine and invited by the offer of free
Eardon, by a spy or deserter who
ad entered the castle by stealtb, sur-
rendered it, Charles caused tbem to
be stripped and hung by bundreds
on the surrounding trees, and as many
;miore to be drowned in the lake. But

Sakzedand,

SdlJTE 49. — yverdiJn. bUSSlGNV.

I5t

two days after, on the 3rd of March,
1476, he experienced the vengeance of
the Swiss, in the memorable defeat of
liishost, 50,000 strong, by the army of
the confioderates, amounting to not
nmdi more than J of that number ;
sniwis himself compelled to fly for
hu life icross the mountains, with
ody 5 followers. The spoil of his
oonp, which fell into the hands of the
victon,i])daded 120 pieces of cannon, ,
600 stwiards, all his jewels and re-
galia, eofldr hangings, and military
chest; oo that day sold and diamonds
urere dealt out to the Swiss by hand-
fal& In this battle, however, as in
those of Morat and Nancy, the Swiss
were inTading the then territories of
the Dukes of Savoy or of Burgundy.
The scene of the battle lay between
CoDciie and Corcelles ; but the final
nmt of the Burgundians was at the
U river between the battlefield
ttid Grandson.

'^Qmck of Grandson isof 10th or
IJtfc oenty. The prior's stall of wood
is worth notice. Farel preached the
i^noed doctrines from its pulpit.
1^ is a path over the hills from
Grandson to Motiers Travers.

Ilie rly. skirts the lake and crosses
tiieThiele.

^ttrdmStat, (Ger. Iff erten)—( Inns :
* <fe Londres ; Croix Federale), a
^ of 5029 Inhab., at the S. ex-
Mty of the lake of Neuchatel, at
^Wt where the Orbo (thenceforth
^ Thiele) falls into it. It is
"Bit upon the site of the Koman
^nmum, whose name, with a little
■age, it still inherits.

o^ Cattle, built in the 12th cen-

J^W Conrad of Zahringen, is in

jwaiadle of the town, and is modem-

^ ad uninteresting. It became

^ i^ool*bouse and residence of

^^Z2d, fipom 1805 to 1825. Al-

'^gh the founder of a system of

fldoeation, and of many schools both

ffl Horope and America, he was a very

^ practical schoolmaster himseljf;

tod this establishment, the head-

^purters as it were of his system,

turned out a signal failure.

There are some pretty promenades

by the side of the lake, and the town
is sufficiently picturesque.

A very aeughtful excursion may
be made from this up to the Lac ae
Joux (Rte. 52).

Diligence to Ste. Croix, noted for
the manufacture of musical boxes
(50,000 in a year).

From Yverdun the rly. proceeds
through a fertile and thrivmg country,
along the valley of the Thiele, with
fine views of the Jura range to the
W., and often a view of snow-peaks
to the S. and E. Before coming to
Chavomay Stat, the fine castle of
Champmont will be observed on the
rt [From Chavomay Stat, branch
rail to Orbe (Rte. 52).] Soon after
this the rly. passes by two short
tunnels through the low range of hUls
which separates the valley of the
Thiele, or Orbe, from that of the
Venoge, and descends the valley of
the Venoge, The ch. of Cossonay is
prettily situated on a height, and the
rly. passes through a fine country to

Bussigny June. Stat., whence one
branch of the rly. goes to Merges
and Geneva (Rte. 53\ the other
through some green and pleasant val-
leys, without any extensive view, to

Lausanne Junct. Stat. (Rte. 55).

158

ROUTE 60.

nkuchItel to chaux de fonds
asx> le locle.

About 20 m. Railway by La Chaux
de Fonds to Le Locle in about 3 hrs.

Diligence from Neuch&tel to Le
Locle by Les Fonts.

[The high-road to Chaux de Fonds
runs directly through the profound
chasm of the Seyon (Bte. 48).

Vallengin — (Inn : Couronne) — is
the principal place in the fertile Val
de Ruz — 4:30 Lihab. Its Castle (now
a prison) is in part as old as the 12th
century : its base is washed by the
Seyon. The Church, a perfectly re-
gular Gothic structure, was buut by
a Count of Vallengin, on his return
from the crusades, in consequence of
a vow made to the Virgin in a storm
at sea that he would build a church
upon the water; accordingly the stream
of the valley is conducted under the
building.

A steep and long ascent up the
Tete de Bang leads Ito Hants Gene-
veys.]

On quitting Neuch&tel Stat, the
rly. (1600 ft. above the lake) com-
mands fine views 1* over to the Alps.
It crosses the Seyon and near tne
viaduct over the valley of Serrieres
penetrates a tunnel 1850 ft. long.
Fine Alpine view on emerging.

CorceUes Stat., 2 short tunnels.

Chambrelieu Stat. See from it the
line to Pontarlier (Rte. 51), nearly
1000 ft. below. The direction of the
line is now re^rersed from S.W. to N.,
passing over the 2 small tunnels just
mentioned.

JIauts Oeneveys Stat. (Hdtel Rev-
baud), 2944 ft. above the sea, the
summit level of the line.

rt. grand view of Mont Blanc.

ROUTE 60. — ^zteughItel to chaux de ponds. Sect h

Through a tunnel under the Col del
Loges, which the high-road sur^
mounts; close to it is I

Convers Stat Another tunnel be«{
fore

Chaux de Fonds Stat.—^Trms : Fleutj
de Lys, Balances, Lion d'Or, all indif-|
ferent)^a town of 18,000 Inhab., innj
bleak, upland, and desolate valley^
bare of wood and nearly destitute
of water, and from its ?reat elera^
tion of 3070 ft. above Uie sea, cMf
pable of producing only a scanty crop :
of oats. The village covers an ares i
not less than that of the city of Ox*
ford, each cottage being an isolated
cube, surrounded by a croft or gard^
half an acre or an acre in extent; it
was, however, burnt in 1794. Its
inhabitants are reputed to be very
rich. It is the chief seat of the manu-
facture of clocks and watches. This is
not carried on in large factories, but in
the separate dwellings of the workmen.
Each man usually makes only one
particular piece oi machinery, leaving
even the finishing of it to others. The
number of persons here and at Locle,
and in the neighbouring district, en-
ga^d in different branches of wateh-
m^ng is about 12,000 ; the wages
vary from 2^ fr. to 10 fr. a day. The
number of g^ld and silver watches
made in Locle in 1861 was 216,B30.
This is not the actual number made,
which amounted to 600,000. In 1774
the total number of watches made was
300. There are two subterranean mills
here, turned by the stream of the
valley previous to its sinking under-
ground j the rocks have been blasted
to afford spdoe for the mills; but
those at Locle are even more curious.
Diligences to Porentrui;— to Sonceboi,
by the Val St Imier.

The Doubs, which separates Switzer-
land from France, traverses one of
those singular fissures conmion in the
Jura limestone, and descends in a feU
(le Saut du Doubs} 80 ft. high. Above
the fall the river, dammed up by rocks,
spreads out into a sort of lake; below,
for the space of nearly 6 m., it runs
between rocks 800 or 1000 ft. high,
presenting to the pedestrian both here
and lower down» as far as Goumois

Svoitztlhd fiODTE £0. — ^LB LOOLB. Lk BOCHE FEMBUB.

169

nd St. Vrsitit many scenes of beauty
•od interest
The JBI7. makes anothfor bend to

reach

LiLocleStai.-(Itm: Trois Rois>—
mother scattered Tillage, oocapied by
an iabitnons populatioii of 9336
souls; tk men diiefly watchmakers,
the vonaiiacemakera; rebuilt since
a fin viodi consumed it in 1833.

The Btde stream ofiheBied, which

tnnm the Talley, loses itself, at a

short dutnee from Lode, in a chasm

in die nek. This outlet, however,

proved i&afficient to drain the valley;

>&dthtdiitaict around the town was,

in cooseqoence, inundated at the

"CMoarf the melting of the snows—

and Dot inch better than a morass at

^J tine. To remedy this evil, a

^^ 950 ft. long, was pierced

^'^'^ the screen of solid limestone-

^^^i'hit^ encompasses the valley in

^2^H""dthi8 now efifeotnally carries

offiflto IheBoubs the previously stag-

*^ wtai At Col des Roches, a

^ distaooe from this artificial

^ or emissary, and about a mile

°^^e,the liver disappears in a

^|toal opening, sinking into the heart

*^ iDOBDtain, through a vertical

•Waww than 100 ft. deep. This

^''^power, or privilege, as an Ame-

Jtti wonM call It, is not lost; but, in

™» to render it available, water-

JJAhave been constructed within

"••MTnona deft, whose powerful

■•fey, impelled by the falling

^^"^ mores a com and saw mill*

'^madown flights of broken and

"9l^9tiirs,cut m the rock, to these

Jjjgttdone under another, in very

^P^ sitaations undoubtedly, but

^^^ more so to the imagination

™ ^ beholder from the circum-

■*^rf darkness and ignorance of

^ *m by which the works are

**H by the noise, the unfathom-

*4|(h below, &G:*—Simond.

^iaeittursion to Saut duDoubs can

* aide in two ways. 1. A pretty

w-nxid leads from La Chaux de

bbto the Flanchettes; thence to

inm in | hr., and to the Saut f hr.,

ling the bimk of the river, retumins

lyLesBrenets and Le Locle. 2. A

good carriage-road goes from La
Chaux de Fonds to the Locle, thence
to the mill of the Col des Roches, La
Roche Fendue, the elegant village of
the Brenets.

A special festival, called the Fete du
Saut du Boubs, is celebrated on the
first Sunday of the month of July,
and draws tnither sometimes 100 boats
with music and feasting.

La Roche Fendue is an aperture bored
in the rock, dividing Switzerland from
France, conunenc^ 1779, and only
lately finished, by which the road to
Besan9on is shortened by 6 m.: it
opens a singular view over the Y al de
Doubs.

There is another road from Locle
to Neuch&tel, by Chaux de Milieu,
Les Fonts, the heights of La Toume,
and CorcdOies.

160

feOUTE 51. — SONtlRtrtaEl to iTEUtlHATEt.

Sect

ROUTE 61.

PONTARLIEB (iN FEANCE) TO NEU-

chJLtel, by motiers travers.

About 32 Eng. m. Railway/ (Franco-
Suisse) opening the most direct com-
munication between Paris and W.
Switzerland; 3 trains daily in 2 J brs.
It passes through scenery of great
interest.

Fontarlier — (Inns: H. National; La
Croix Blanche) — the last town in
France. [See Handbook of France],

The Railroad first ascends by the
side of the river Doubs, and through
the pass of La Cluse, a mountain

fateway, fortified and capable of
eing closed, between France and
Switzerland, to St. Pierre de Joux.
The defile is commanded by (rt.)
the Chateau de Joux^ situated on the
summit of a precipice, at the foot of
which the roads from Pontarlier and
Salins, and those from Ncuchatel and
Geneva, by Jougne, unite. The pass
has been strengthened by a detached
fort on a still higher robk (1.). This
frontier-fort was the prison of the un-
fortunate Toussaint I'Ouverture, when
treacherously carried off from St.
Domingo by command of Napoleon.
He ended his days here, some say by
violent means; but the sudden transi-
tion from the climate of the tropics to
a dank dungeon on the heights of the
Jura sufficiently explains the cause of
his death, without the need of violence.
Here also was confined, previously,
another remarkable prisoner, Mira-
beau, who was sent hither by virtue of
a lettre de cachet obtained by his
father, ** TAmi des Hommes,*' as he
called himself, and the tyrant of his
own family, as he proved himself.
Mirabeau, having by his insinuating
manners obtained leave from the go-
vernor to visit the town of Fontaruer

on parole, made love to Madame (
Monnier, the young wife of an ol
magistrate there, and eloped with hi
to Holland. She was the Sophie <
whom he addressed some of his o1
scene writings.

Between 3ie villages of Verri^n
de Joux and Yerri^res de Suisse, ti
French frontier is crossed. The O
tom-house repilations on this part <
the French m)ntier are more tha
usually rigorous. Passengers by ri;
avoid this inconyenience.

The country now becomes exceec
ingly romantic — the hills clothed wit
forests, the valleys carpeted vnth th
richest verdure, and sprinkled wit
neat cottages in the picturesque styl
of architecture peculiar to the chai:
of the Jura and Alps. Cheese, nearl
as good as that of Gruydres, and sol
under that name, is made on the ii|
land pastures of the Jura.

The descent from the summit c
the ridge into the Val Travers i
through another narrow gorge, calle
La Chaine, because the passage wa
at one time stopped by a mass;
chain drawn across the road, an!
fastened to staples in the rock. Thi
primitive fortification is said to hav
been a relic of the Burgundian wan
intended to arrest the artillery c
Charles the Bold.

At the village of St. Sulpice th
river Reuse, which waters the Va
Travers, rises out of the rock, Thi
abundant source is said to be the out
let of the Lac d'Etalidres, situate
about 10 miles off, among the hills.

Fleurier (Inn: Couronne, good
(2600 Inhab.), built on both sides q
the Reuse, thrives by the manufactnr
of watches.

Bovaresse Stat., Travers Stat Her
is a tunneL

Couvet Stat. Omnibus to Motien
Diligence daily to Le Locle by le
Fonts. Distilleries of Kirschwasser
At Presta, on the 1. bank of the river
is a mine of asphalte worked hj (
Parisian company. Stratum 12 ft
thick. Far down, on the opposite sidi
of the vaUey lies

Motiers Travers — (Inns: Hotel A
Yille, good; Maison de Commune)'

Sdzerhnd, boute 51. — motiers travebs. creux de vent, 161

& dean, thriving Tillage inhabited by

vatch and laoe makers, on the rt.

baakoftheBeuae. It was the plaoe

of nsidence of Jean Jacques Rousseau

after kis banishment mm Greneva.

In the house oocapied by him his

^iiihown,atwhich he wrote his

K^dnted 'Lettres de la Montaene ;*

*Bivpitair8, in a wooden ffaliery,

Opening-holes, through which he

^nme people out of doors

vitkoot being seen himself. He

qnitted the place under the pretence

of inTB^ been persecuted, and be-

caue tk boys threw stones at his

vindon.

T^e Val Trayers is highly pic-

^mme Stat. [From this the
Mcentofthe Creux de Vent, 4800 ft.,
iBay be made in 1 hr. ; descent by
St. AnliJB or Boudry. ** Its summit
IS hoDoied out into a vast and pro-
«Hffldeanty,500 ft. deep, surrounded
yaoioplutheatre of limestone rock
PMB Ike top to the bottom." It
B more than 2 m. in diameter. " At
f^i^when a change of weather is
'"jPcp^t the crater of the moun-
^isaeento become suddenly filled
^ a dond of white vapour, work-
^ and rising and fiilling with an
1*7 bat perceptible motion, until the
Y^ boUow presents the appearance
•' IB immense cauldron oi boiling
^ov, which seldom rises above the
^^ If any escape, it is by the
2^ towards the defile ; and I
***nen it repeatedly issue in a
^vtite line, and float gradually
r^lbe centre of the valley till
^i^BKptibly diminished and dissi*

.•jjeecho produced by firing a gun
*™» the Creux de v ent is like a
""^ fire of musketry, or a suc-
Vi^ discharges from a battery ;
' ^ tte hollow may be called tne
"^ttidle of the winds, which ap-
|**i> be perpetually blowing from

21e view now opens of the Lake of
*yWtel,rt; far below is seen the
'ttflttct of the Yverdun Railway,
While high np overhead is the Stat.

of Chambrelieu of the Chaux de
Fonds Rly.

Auyemier Junct. Stat. Here we
meet the Neuch&tel and Yverdun
line (Rte. 49), and the two run side
by side. Near this fine views of the
Lake and the Alps. Gradual ascent
to the lofty viaduct over the gorge
of Serri^res. Above the gorge the
Castle Beauregard is seen.

The rly. line along the valley of
the Reuse has encountered and over-
come very considerable engineering
difficulties. 3 viaducts and 11 tunnels
occur in a space of 21 m.

NeuchItel Junct. Stat, and Ter-
minus (Rte. 48), high up above the
lake. By shady waUcs the pedestrian
may descend to the lake into the
town, avoiding the dusty road.

162

EOUTE 52. — ^YVEBDtJN TO LAC i)E JOUX.

Sect. I.

EOUTE 52.

YVERDUN, OR LAUSANNE, TO THE LAC
DE JOUX.

This is an exceedingly pretty ex-
cursion of two days, weU worth taking
by those who wish to see the best
Jura scenery.

There are diligences to la Pontj in
the VaUee de Joux, from — a, Cos-
sonay; 6, Chavomay.

a, Cossonay Stat. (Bte. 49). From
this a diligence wim only two seats
starts once a day, on the arrival of
the train from Lausanne, and reaches
Le Pont in 4 hrs. up (3 hrs. down),
passing oyer a high ridge, whence
there is a very fine view of the Alps.

Le Font (see below).

6. Chcmornay Stat, (Bte. 49). From
this an omnibus goes, on the arrival
of most trains, to Orbe, 2 m. ; whence
diligence once a day to Le Pont, 13 m.
The diligence is very slow, and, stop-
pages included, not less than 5 hrs.
are consumed between Chavomay and
Le Pont.

After leaving Chavomay Stat, the
road crosses numerous branches of
the Orbe and Noxon, through a flat
valley to

Orbe (Jnin: Ecu de Prance, fair and
cheap; Maison de Yille; Guillaume
Tell), a very picturesque and ancient
town of 1927 Inhab., built on a hill
nearly insulated by the Orbe, which
is crossed by 3 bridges. The lower
bridge, on the road to the Valine de
Joux, is of great antiquity ; the upper
and modem one, of a single arch, 124 ft.
span, is in use at present. Orbe was
the Koman station Urbigenumj and a
place of importance in the middle ages,
under the Burgundian Kings, who
had a Eoyal CasSe here. The fair but
cruel Brunehilde, Queen of the Pranks,
took refuge here, with her grand-
daughter, but was carried a prisoner

to Worms, and there barbarously put
to death. The three sons of Lothaire L
met here, in 855, to divide his king-
dom. In 1475 the Swiss took Orbe
by assault; but the Castle made a
len^hened resistance. The garrison,
yieming step by step, disputed the
possession of each chamber, stair, and
passage. The last remnant were par*
sued into a tower, which the Swiss set
fire to, and the few who fell into their
hands alive were thrown over the
battlements. The site of the castle
now forms the public promenade,
whence in clear weather there is a
fine view over the valleys of the Orbe
and Noxon to the Bernese Al|)s.
Two towers of the castle are still
standing.

An attempt was made in 1639 to
connect the lakes of Geneva and Neu-
chatel by a canal between the rivers
Orbe . and Venoge ; it was cut as fiur
as Kntre Boche, about 12 m., but was
never carried further.

About 2 m. above Orbe, near Most
Charand, is a cascade of the Orbe.

The road to the valley of Joux
leaves Orbe by the new bridge span-
ning the ravine of the Orbe, and soon
begms to ascend by a series of tig-
zags, commanding very fine views of
the snowy alps on the one side, and
of the Jura range on the other. The
, country through which the road
passes is fertile and pretty, and the
road in beautiful order.

JRomainmotier is a small vOlage,
most picturesquely placed in a hollow.
The church ot its old abbey is one <d
the oldest and most interesting in
Switzerland; the nave remains as it
was in 753. The road now follows
the green and pleasant valley of the
little river Nozon, continually ascend*
ing for 1 J hr. to

VatUion, a little villaee in a wider
part of the valley, inhaoited by shoe-
makers, and overhung by the Dent
de Vaidion. [The dmgence stops s
long time here, and the pedestrian
will do well to ascend the Dent de
Yaulion at once, walking about 1^ n* '■
along the high road, then tuming
to the rifirht and ascending tbe
mountain which lies before him, de-

BODIB £2. — LE PONT. XONT TENS&E.

163

iceidiBg from the samoiit by another
' to Le Pont] A series of 2ag-
take the carriage-road to a higher
, where little bat short grass,
ID^ ud fin is to be seen. The
imdisbeuitifiiUj kept^ and reminds
fte tamlkr strongl j of a large £ng-
t^ fok. A short descent through
inimwitts, bordered by limestone
eH&aadtis, brings us to

f'^llm: H. de la Truite,
toIoiUe^tiittle village, named from
* <)i% amss the channel which
eomeeti h Lao <U Joux with the
^lackBrenets. It is very pret-
ujatoatedst the K. end of the Lac
K Joio, iBd looks like an English
«%> with its neat roads, good
»|Bes, and green fields. There are
pMfis, but wily one or two horses,
^ no ndesaddles. Care should
K tiken in walking amongst these
J5««««ni to avoid old wells dug for
Y ™^ »nd imperfectly covered.
*Jjnlw^ English gentleman,
"^''wBBriiert, was drowned in one
*ffthe chilets of the Mont Tendre
"'Iptaadis buried at Mont Richer.
^ Talley in which ike Lac de
^iiatnated contains two other
2^14 Ter aad Brenets, and is en-
jyotin by high hills ; so that,
1^^ these sheets of water are fed
y^DAe sfreams of the valley, they
■^so Tisible outlet above ground.
*^*K^ however, lar^ cavities and
2^ in the beds of these lakes,
***"fcwioirs, through which the
2***pe. These fissures are

J"** incapable of carrying off
'"'Vili^iQ^ thus inundations are

le valley. A tunnel, of no
f?7 9^ extent, might drain the
15* JWy. The Log de Joux is
ihove the level of the sea.

?2*"'pect, surrounded by grassy
y^y limestone cliffs, and woods
''•"■wd fir, would, if it were
f'^^lk highway, make the valley
Wk resort. Several pleasant
**wiis may be made.
* « ascend the Der4 de Vaulion,
» ttmmit of which is not visible
l^I<e Pont, go along the high road
ViUorbe for about a mile, until
"fo^d opens into a little valley.

Cross the little meadow or marsh, and
be^ to ascend through the woods in
a N.E. direction. After a short walk
through the wood the path follows a
little valley or depression of green
sward, between fir-trees and beeches.
Beyond this there is no regular path,
but you should continue to ascend,
and the top (4930 ft.) will be reached
in an hours ^od walking from Le
Pont. A gmde is not absolutely
necessary, but without one you will
probably lose some time. The N.W.
side of the summit is a sheer lime-
stone predpioe of some 1500 ft., look-
ing down into the g^een valley of the
Orbe. N. is seen the range of the
Jura, E. the Bernese Alps, S. the
chain of the Pennine Alps to Mont
Blanc ; the rest is concealed by the
Mont Tendre. S.W. the lake and
valley of Joux.

6. About V) min. from the village
of Abbaye, which is 2 m. frt)m Le
Pont, by dimbing up a steep and
picturesque ravine, out of which a fine
stream issues, a cavern, called Chau-
di^re d'Enfer, will be found, into
which, by crawling and using a rope,
you can penetrate about 200 yds. to a
nttle lake or pool. There are other
unexplored recesses in the cavern.
Guide at the inn, 2 fr.

c. Another ascent is to the Moat
Tendre (5510 ft.). The path to it goes
up on th^ 1. bank of the ravine, behind
Abbaye; and the ascent occupies 3 hrs.
from Le Pont. The view from its
summit, extending; to Mont Blanc on
the one side, and to Soleure on the
other, will repay the trouble of the
ascent. There is a path down the
opposite side of the mountain, lead-
ing, in 2 hrs., to the village of Mont
Richer.

d, Listead of returning direct to
Chavomay, the pedestrian who has
ascended the Dent de Yaulion may
either take a path on the N. shoreof the
Lac de Brenets, or follow the high road
to Yallorbe, and visit the source of the
Orbe, which rises at once a copious
spring, fed no doubt by subterraneous
conduits from the Lac de Joux. Near
the source is an extensive cavern,
called Grotte des Fees, The source is

164

ROITTE 53. — ^MACON TO GEKEVA.

Sect

about 6 m. from Le Pout, round the
li. Brenet. By starting in the morning
the pedestrian may catch the diligence
from Salins to Chayomay, and so
return by the pretty yale ot the Orbe.

€. Or the excursion may be pro-
longed by either shore of the Lac de
Joux to Le BrassuSf a thriving town
of watchmakers, and thence to Les
JSousses, on the old post-road to Geneva,
descending from which place there is
a very fine view of the Alps.

/. Another route is to cross from Le
Brassus to the village of St. Georges,
by the Asile de Marcheiruz, 3 hrs.
walk; from thence 3 leagues by a
good road to Bolle, on the Lake of
Geneva (Bte, 55).

ROUTE 63.

lyons, ob haoon, to geneya
(railway).

From Macon to Geneva, 114: m.;
from Lyons, 100 m.; 3 trains daily
in about 6 and 7 hrs. The rly. from
Lyons and that from Paris (passing
throug^ Macon) join at the Amberieu
June. Stat., distance 28 m. from Lyons,
42 m. from Macon. There is but one
express train each way daily.

From Amberieu the rly. ascends
the rocky valley of the fittle river
Serrant, making considerable curves, to

Tenay Stat»f beautifhlly situated i
the junction of three vaUeys. Soc
after this the road passes betwec
lofty clifis not unlike those of Clifto
and by a series of little lakes, whl<
occasioned great difficulties to tl
engineers. A tunnel is passed to

RossUlon Stat, Here the sumn
level is reached, and the road emerge
on the Swiss side of the Jura. Lim
stone mountains seem to close roui
the line, and there is a magnified
view of distant mountains. The roi
passes under the Grand Colonbit
which overhangs

CtUoz June. Stat. (^Inns: Croi
Blanche ; Union). Here the line (
Chambery and Turin (Rte. 15c
branches off. The rly. to Genei
henceforward keeps close to tl
Rhdne, only leaving at one pomt i
order to cut off an angle.

Seyssel Stat, on the Bhdne. Hei
are quarries which furnish asphalte.

Billiat Stat, 1 m. hence is the Ma
pertuis (" pertuis " means a gorge), a
abyss even more imposing than tb
Perte du Rhone (see further on), Th
river quietly flows at a depth of 600 f
between walls of rock, sometimes n(
more than 14 ft. apart.

Bellegarde Stat The last town i
France, and French custom -hous
10 min. walk from stat., behind tl
H. de la Poste, is the Perte du ShSn
The gorge of theValscrene is crossc
on a viaduct; far below is the 6l
road and bridge. Through the Crec
Tunnel (Rte. 63 e). The extensii
fortifications of the Fort de fBdui
are passed near

Colhnges Stat., in a narrow defili
rt. rises the Yuache, 1. the Ja
chain. This pass was fortified h
Julius Csesar. The Swiss territof
is entered at Challex, 7 m. from

Geneva Terminus, at end of Rue i
Mt. Blanc, leading to the lake aa
bridge.

Geneva. (Germ, Genf ; Ital GJ
nevra.) Inns : ^H, de la Metropole, t

iofitzerland.

Wiense establishment opposite the
Anglais, a first-rate hotel.
de la Faix, Quai de Mt. Blanc,
by the former landlord of the
excellent, a much finer house,
llaid equally well managed ; Hdtel des
Boroies; Coaronne, well managed,
modente, civil landlord — all these
ve exc(^t inns, facing the lake.
Bstd Vietoria, near the rly. stat.,
Irt class; H. Schweitzerhof; H.
BeaDrirage and d'Angleterre ; H.
J'Ecu de Geneve ; H. du Kh6ne (bad
Usells), reasonable, 2nd class ; La
Balance most comfortable as a 2nd
dass inn. Bestwirant, Richter (Lion
d'Or), good. Cafes, Du Nord (also
resteiirant), facing the lake, one of
fte best in Switzerland; La Poste..
Passports are never required at
Geie?a.

A Kolk through Geneca from the
% Stat, to the Bridge of Mt. Blanc.
Tiew of the mountain from Quai du
«M5Jancj Jardin Anglais; Keliefof
1ft. Ulfflc; Pierre de Niton ; Public
^7 in Rue Verdaine ; Cathedral ;
«!"» of Calvin, 11, Rue des Cha-
fes; House of J. J. Rousseau, 40,
ywdeRue; Musee de 1' Academic;
P'deVille; Arsenal opposite Athe-
J^; along the promenade of La
JBlle to the Botanic Garden, by the
J^ to Musee Rath; Place Neuve;
^^ of the Escalade (see His-
' It end of Rue des Allemands;
'Qnais to Rue Mt. Blanc.
^5*va, though the capital of the
"^of the Swiss cantons, except
J the most populous town in
Sufederation, since it contains
. P'lnhab. (9322 Rom. Catholics,
^%no foreigners). It is well
. yH at the W. extremity of the
*J**rf6eneva, at the point where

ROUTE 63. — GENEVA.

165

waters of the arrowy
issue out of it The river
the town into two parts; the
on the rt bank being called
' St. Gervais. The intensely
^colour of the waters of the Rhone,
to by Byron, is certainly very
ffkable, and resembles nothing so
■a as the discharge of indigo from
oyer's vat. The cause of it has not
Batisfactorily explained. Sir

Humphry Davy attributed it to the
presence of iodine. The extreme
purity lasts but for a short space,
since a mile below the town it is
polluted by the admixture of the
waters of the turbid Arve.

Geneva, when seen from the lake,
presents a very imposing appearance,
in consequence of improvements, made
since 1830, for which it is indebted, in
no slight d^ree, to the circulation of
the gold of English travellers among
its inhabitants. Several new auar'
ters have started up on the banks of
the Rhone and the margin of the
lake, displaying handsome fronts of
tall houses, lined with broad quays
towards the lake. The Quai de Mont
Blanc is a continuation of Quai des
Bergues, and forms a row of magni-
ficent houses. On the S. bank of
the Rhone the unsightly houses which
lined the margin of the lake have
been refaced and beautified, while a
broad belt of land has been gained
from the water, and converted into
a line of Quais. The Quais on both
sides are connected by three handsome
Bridges, thrown across the lake. The
longest of these, completed 1863, leads
from the Rlwy. and Quai du Mont
Blanc to the Grand Quai and English
Garden on S. side of the Lake. Another
bridge is united with a small island,
formerly a part of the fortifications,
now occupied by a very inferior statue
of Rousseau, by Fradier. Since 1 848 the
fortifications nave been razed, those
near the Porte de Rive partly thrown
into the lake, so as to form another
new Quai, occupied by streets and
houses.

Geneva is divided into the upper
and lower town ; and this distinc-
tion, arising from the uneven nature
of the ground, is perpetuated in the
rank and condition of the inhabitants
of the two divisions. The upper
town consists almost entirely of
the large and handsome mansions of
the burgher aristocracy, heretofore
the senators and magistrates of the
republic, between whom and the in-
habitants of the lower tovni, consisting
of shopkeepers, a strong social line
is drawn. The Quartier de St. Ger-

Switzerland,

BOUTE 53. — GENEVA. CATHEDRAL.

167

nis is the abode of the workmen,

, die seat of democnc j after the French

I Mttem— the Faubourg St Antoine of

I GeneTa:— its streets are narrow, its

iMttsA lofty, and it has something of

liheairof Uie old town of Edinburgh.

^ feods arising between the high

aod low town would fill a long and

umiaiis historical chapter: they

often led to bloodshed ; but the

. democrats below generally brought

their exalted neighbours to reason by

^e maft expedient of cutting off

l^ wta^HDes, taking especial care

P^gHritbe njdranlic macnine which

I fimiislied the supply to the upper

, town, and which is situated in their

: quarter. The disputes are now be-

I ^onthenpper town and St. Gervais,

. the lower town siding sometimes with

«K,sofflgtimes with the other.

On the island, in the middle of the
Wione, not far from the Hydraulic

■ ^^' *'*'®^ may, it is said, be
: wiwrfof a Roman structure, sup-
jff^ to be the foundations of one of
r^^tei^w erected by Julius'<!5ee8ar, to
¥*Tent the Helvetians crossing the
'wer. The earliest mention of Ge-
;fcn occors in his Commentaries,
it is described as "the last
i of tlie Allobroges, and nearest
^|b Helvetian frontier."
fcwgb Geneva is deservedly a
rocns for travellers of aU na-
jit possesses within it few objects
^•toest to the passing stranger.
*>town, it has few fine public
p; in short, scarcely any sights,
'•faig'to its beautiful environs,
f'wjteiiity to Chamouni, to the
^r^ scenery of its lake, and
[■poirfion on the high road from
'fialy, that it has become a
1^10 much resort.

Coihedral, or Ch, of St Pierre

Vi extreme simplicity of archi-

^< Its fine Corinthian portico

on the outside is a blemish

it is placed, but its interior

^ interest as a very early and

ipted specimen of the Gothic

nth centQry, It contains the

JJ»nts of Agrippa d'Aubigny,

mend ti Henry IV., and grand-

father of Mad. de Maintenon, and
that of the Due Henri de Bohan, a
leader of the French Protestants in
the reiepi of Louis XIIL, slain near
Rheinfelden, 1638. A statue of plaster
now replaces one of marble, rutnlessly
destroyed at the French Revolution.
The canopy of the pulpit is the same
under which Calvin preached.

A Rom, Ccttholic Church in the Gothic
style has been built near the rly. stat. ;
and a s^agogue {Temple Juif) in the
Saracenic style near the Forte Neuve.

TheEnglish Churchy near die Bergues
Hotel, bmit by subscription, on the
site of the former fortifications, was
consecrated in 1853 by the Bishop
of Winchester. Mr. (xeorge Haldi'
mann eave 1000/. towards it. Service
is performed every Sunday at 11
and 6.

The Palais Electoral, outside the
Porte Neuve, is a handsome building
for elections, exhibitions, meetings,
and festivals.

The Musee Bath, so named after its
founder. General Rath, who left the *
reversion of his fortune to it, is a
building in the Greek style, close to
the Porte Neuve, open daily from 11
to 3; it contains a collection of pic-
tures and other works of art, the
greater part by native artists. Among
the Genevese painters, Calame, Diday,
Homung, ana Topfer ^deserve to be
mentioned.

The Musee cTAcademie, No. 11,
Grande Rue, is chiefiy interesting
to the student as containing the geo-
logical collections of Saussure, the
fossU plants of MM. Brongniart and
Decandolle, and the collections of M.
Necker. It is principally filled with
the native productions of Switzerland,
and contains specimens of the chamois,
of the Bouquetin, the dog of St. Ber-
nard, of all the fishes of the rivers
and lakes of this country; among
them the ferra, the lotte, and a trout
weighing 43 lbs. from the lake of
Geneva.

There is also a cabinet of cmtigui'
ties} some of them fbund in the neigh-
bourhood, such as a silver buckler,
with fine bas-reliefb, discovered in the
bed of the Arye, inscribed *« Largitas

168

BOUTE 63. — GENEVA. PUBLIC UBBABT.

Sect I.

Yalentiniani Augusti;" some instru-
ments of sacrifice found near the rocks
of Neptune in the lake, &c. &c. Also
the lantern dropped in the town ditch
by one of the Savoyard soldiers en-
gaged in the unsuccessful attempts to
scale the walls in 1602 (see below).
In the same building is the Society
de Lecturie, a circuiting libraiM^ of
40,000 Tols., and a large reading-
room for periodicals. Foreigners are
easily admitted to the latter.

The Public Library, Kue Verdaine,
attached to the College, a scholastic
looking buildin?, of no architectural

EretensionSfbehmd St. Pierre, founded
y Bonnivard (the Prisoner of Chillon),
contains 70,000 volumes. Curiosities : —
394 MS. letters of Calvin, almost
illegible, but with fair transcripts
(there is one addressed to Lady Jane
Grey while a prisoner in the Tower);
44 vols, of his MS. sermons 1549-60;
12 vols, of letters addressed to him,
and many important documents re-
« lating to the Council of Basle; se-
veral volumes of letters of Theodore
Beza; the manuscript of the * Noble
LcQon,' a work of the ancient Wal-
denses; part of the account-book of
the household of Philip le Bel, for
1308, written with a style upon waxed
tablets, but now almost effaced; a
translation of Quintus Curtius, with
beautiful illustrations, taken along
with the baggage of Charles the
Bold at Morat. Discourses of St.
Augustine, a MS. on papyrus of
the 7th century. Letters ot St. Vin-
cent de Paul, J. J. Bousseau, &c.
The library is opened every day
but Saturday and Sunday, from 11
to 4.

A new Museum of Fine Arts, the
gift to the town of Madame Eynard,
called AthencBum, is a beautiful build-
ing near the Botanic Garden.

The Botanic Garden behind the
theatre, and near the Porte Neuve,
deserves mention, as having been
laid out under the direction of the
eminent botanist Decandolle ; but the
funds are so limited that the collection

of plants is of no great importance.
The ground it occupies has also painfiil
historical associations. On this spot,
in 1794, took place fusillades and
butcheries too horrible to be detailed,
in which the blood of the most respect-
able citizens of the town was shed,
condemned to execution by a baad
of wretches, most of whom wore th«r
fellow-citizens, though directed by a
deputy from the Comite du Saint
Public at Paris.

Besides the names of Calvin and
Rousseau, which are connected with
Geneva — the one by adoption, the
other by birth — it is the oirthplace
of many illustrious men, whose repa-
tation may be styled European. The
list includes the names oi Isaac C^-
saubon; of Lefort, the friend and
councillor of Peter the Great; of
Necker, the weak and ill-starred mi-
nister of Louis XVL, and father of
Madame de Stael; of the naturalists
Saussure (who first ascended Mont
Blanc), Bonnet, De Luc; and Huber,
the biographer of the bee and ant;
DecandoUe, the botanist; of Delolme
and Mallet du Pan, writers; of Gal-
latin, U.S.; of Bossiy the Pope's
minister, assassinated at Borne in
1849; of Dumont, the friend and
adviser of Mirabeau and Jeremy
Bentham; andSismondi, the historian.
Among the living there are Neckar,
the geologist ; De la Bive, the chemist;
Alphonse de Candolle, and Edmond
Boissier, botanists; Plantamour, as-
tronomer; Maunoir, the oculist;
and Merle d'Aubigne, author of the
History of the Meformaticn, and a
preacher at the Oratoire.

Geneva may be regarded as the
intellectual metropolis of Switzer-
land; and strangers who choose it as
their residence, if provided with good
introductions, will find, among the
upper classes, a very agreeable sodet^Tt
including manj individuals distoi-

fuished for their literary and scienti'
c acquirements.

The staple manufacture of Geneva^
from which it derives its chief com-
mercial prosperity, is that of looic^
musical boxes, SLnijeicellery, The fint
watch was brought to Geneva in 1587,

H^ T'^tanents for jewellery and
^'^'sthat of Kossel et FUs, Rue

(jjJ*JJ^5 Hesse andMetford, Grand
C/9a« ^6t A good watch costs
•^^ to 500 francs.
Hi J^r^ch custom-house, musi-
^"«-boxes, of Genevese manu-
JJJ» and watches pay a duty of
^ fr- each. Smuggling, once car-
l^^joao enormous extent between
-^•iisand French frontiers, has

SjJi'Binished, owing to the mo-
Tj»» of the French tariff.
IjilJlWcal performances, for cen-
ijy^^f'licted in Geneva by one
|j*Jtere laws of Calvin, are now
?7laDd a Saile de Spectacle has
Sj3t close to the Porte Neuve.
^^ greatly shocked the preju-
JJ'fte citizens by acting plays,
2J^^ under their very nose, at
and Femey. Kousseau

S-C

J 2^ to him, •* Je ne vous aime pas ;
Uj*T8z corrompu ma republique en
^donnant des spectacles.** A Con-

trez corrompu ma republique en

Mjnant des spectacles.** A Con-

T^e de Musique has also been

fj«ry well executed model of Mont

ROUTE 53. — GENEVA.

^'itn^^ ^^® ^* century
tkeJT!^?*^ employed within
^^^\^ ^thout the walls,
ifliZTO«:«ctare. At present the

Ikm^ ) ^ improvements in

j^J^J^cw processes and increased
^W ft«7^'^°*^^» the number of

oiigjJTT"/' Upwards of 50 watch-
ite w • ^^ jewellers' workshops
thetoj."* ^^?8tant employment in
tlutij fij^ ^* ^ ^®*^ calculated
PQli vSr ^^^ 75,000 ounces of
dZir? n»wk8 of sUver, and pre-

of W* ^ *^® ^^^^ of » million
5,ju^5^ ^^ in theuL A com-
dic^fl^ter workmen with a syn-
gj^^^' head, called commission de
^^\^ appointed by the go-
Midtlifl • "Aspect every workshop
,pi^ Jrticles made in it, to guarS
2jTJ«ad m the substitution of

of y^ *7 deterioration in a branch

^productive of so great an

"" to Geneva. Among the

MANUFACTURES.

169

BUmc, the work of an artist named
Sene, who employed 10 years upon it,
is placed in a buildine erected for the
purpose, in* the Jarmn Anglais. It
18 interesting to study either before or
after a visit to Chamouni.

On the grand Quai, close to the
port where the steamers land, a Lim-
nimetre (lake measure) has been erect-
ed to mark the rise and fall of the
waters of the lake, which amounts to
50 inches or more, and makes a very
great difference in the appearance of
uie town.

At the Bcucheries the town main-
tains, at the public expense, a brace
of Eagles. These birds are the armo-
rial l^arings of Geneva, as the bear
is of Berne.

The Post Office is a handsome edifice
on the Place Bel Air, Rue de la Corra-
terie. The Electric Telegraph Office is
on the First Floor.

There is a most respectable Genevese
Club, called the Cercle de la Rive.

A British Consul was appointed for
Geneva, 1846. Mr. Mackenzie, 19,
Rue du Rhone, the gentleman who
fills the office, is most obliging and
anxious to be usefuL

An American (U.S.) Consul resides
here.

Railways : to Paris by Macon in
15 hrs.; to Lyons or Paris by Fort
I'Ecluse (Pans time kept); tp Lau-
sanne, Berne, Sion, on the Simplon
Route ; to Neuchatel,by Morges (Berne
time); to Aix les Bains, Chamb^ry,
Mont Cenis.

Steamboats twice a day along the N.
shore of the lake to Lausanne and
Villeneuve in 5 hours. Twice along
the S. shore in connexion with the
Sion Rly. at Bouveret.

To Chamouni, — Diligences daily at
7, 7}, and 8, from Grand Quai, making
the journey in 9 or 10 hours.

Voituriers charge for a carriage with
one horse 15 fr., with two horses 30 fr»
per diem (KolUker, Aux Paquis, lets
carriages).

Post-horses — 120, Rue du Cendrier.
^ a post extra is charged on quitting
Geneva.

The English traveller, especially if
he be leaving Switzerland, will do well

170

BOUTE 53. — aENEVA. HISTORY.

Sect. I.

to provide himself here with those little
English comforts which he will not
find beyond the next custom-house.
At the shop of Archinard and Bordier,
in the Bue Basse, all kinds of English
cutlery and household goods may be
had genuine. Mrs. Lang, 8, Kue Mt.
Blanc, for ** articles ^glais'* and
needlework. The DemoiseUes Lacour,
in the Grande Bue, are celebrated for
gloves and ladies* shoes; Clerc Bon-
net, Quai des Bergues, has the best
supply of cigars, tobacco, and snuff.
Brachard, Grande Bue, and Wesel,
opposite, are eood stationers. Briquet
has published good maps. Bastard,
Bue des AUemands, a good chemist.

Monroe, bookseller, 32, Grand Quai,
has a readtng-room, and keeps a store
of maps, i^des, English books, &c.;
and a visitors' and strangers' book.
Good tea and Palmer's biscuits may be
had of Monroe.

Dr. Coindet is an eminent and
friendly physician. Dr. Lombard also
is well informed, kind, and expe-
rienced: both studied at Edinburgh.

There is also a resident English
physician. Dr. Metcalf, 3, Quai du
Hont Blanc. G. Baker keeps an Eng-
lish pharmacy. The extremity of the
Quai du Mont Blanc, or the Isle Jean
Jacques Bousseau, formerly the Isle
des Bergues, is a eood point of view
to see the lake and Mont Blanc.

In the Cemetery of Plain Palais, a
little way beyond the Porte Neuve,
Sir Humphry Davy, who died here in
1829, and near to him Decandolle the
botanist, Dumont, and Pictet, are
buried. The site of Calvin's grave is
unknown.

In the bed of ^e lake lie many gra-
nitic boulders, transported from the
high Alps. Two of these, a short dis-
tance beyond the port of Geneva, and
a little to the S.E. of the town, ajre
so large as to project above the water.
They are called Pierres de Niton, from
a tradition that sacrifices were offered
upon them to the god Neptune by the
Bomans. Indeed, instruments of sacri-
fice have been found near them.

History , Geheva is of Boman origin.
Jn the middle ages up to 1530 Geneva

was governed by its bishop, with
whom the citizens had many struggles.
In 1401, the Counts of Savoy became
powerfrd enough always to obtain the
bishopric for one of their own family.
One portion of the citizens, leagued
together under the name of Eidgenos-
sen (from which " Huguenot " is pro-
bably derived), after many struggles
with the Counts or Dukes, in 1518
concluded an alliance with Freyburg
and soon afterwards with Berne, and
in 1530 compelled the Duke of Savoy
to sign a treaty by which they re-
gained their independence. The strug-
gles between the different classes of
citizens in the following 250 years
are exceedingly curious. After a sort
of reign of terror Geneva was annexed
to France in 1798. In 1814 it became
a member of the Swiss confederation,
and the aristocratic government was
re-established, but after many changes
a democratic government was esta-
blished in 1846, every citizen having a
a vote. In 1846 the town had a
balance in hand of 300,000 fr.; it now
owes 23,000,000 fr., besides an un-
known floating debt^ an annual deficit
of 800,000 fr., and a municipal debt of
6,000,000 fr. On the other hand, it
should be said that many public im-
provements have been carried out
under the new government.

Geneva may oe said to possess an
historical interest for inteUig^t tra-
vellers, far greater than that to be
derived from the individual objects of
curiosity contained within its walls.
The influence which she has exer-
cised, not only over Europe but over
the world, by means of her children,
or those whom she has adopted as
her citizens, is quite out of proportion
to the limited extent of a territory
which one may traverse from end
to end in a morning's ride. Vol-
taire ridiculed its diminutiveness by
saying, "Quand je secoue ma per-
ruque je poudre toute la republique ;"
ana die Emperor Paul called the dis-
putes of its citizens a tempest in a
tumbler of water : yet from Greneva
emanated those religious doctrines
from which Scotland, Holland, and a
large part of France, Germany, and

SwUz&riand.

BOUTE 53.-^^ENEVA. GAIfYDr.

171

Switzerlimcl, deriye their form of

faith, and which were tnuuported by

the ragrim JFathers to the opposite

shores of the Athmtie. Here abo

irere sown those political opinions

irlaieh bore fknit in the English rero-

lution under Charles L, in the Ame-

jksn and Uie fVench reyolutions.

It wu in the year 1536 that
Jok» CcMi, the reformer, passed
through the town a fogitiTe, on his
wftT from Italy to Basle. Two years
had nofe elapsed since the Genevese
had abolidied Boman Catholicism,
expelled their bishop, and adopted
the JSefbrmation. f arel, who was
the means of introducing it, was then
" _ at Grenera, and, aware of
shin's talents and powerfiil elo-
quence, entreated him to remain.
Caivin obeyed the call, and, in a
short qiaoe, the itinerant preacher
and fiseigner was raised to be the
dictator of the republic, ruling its
tnrfoolent democracy with a sway not
more mild ihan that of the dukes of
Sayoy and bishops of Geneva, under
which the citizens had groaned for
ages, and from which the Beforma*
tion had at length released them.
From the pulpit of St Feter^s Church,
which became at once the tribune
and judgment-seat of the reformer,
he denounced the prevailing immo-
rality of the town with such elo-
qiunoe and force that profligacy was
obliged to hide its head. His hearers,
nmin^ into an opposite extreme,
adopied a rigorous and puritanical
amUnty of manners, and every tians-
growim of Calvin's code of morals
was visited vrith punishment of the
BtBMMt severity.

BatCahin's influence was not con-

fiaei to tiie pulpit; he was elected

prarideat of the Consistory, of which

one dmd of the permanent members

were ninisters, and the remainder

Jmaea holding office for a year only.

Inia oonncil assumed an authority

ikr more despotic than that of tbie

bishops: it exercised the power of an

inquisition, to examine mto men's

pariTate lives, and into the affairs of

jlmJJies of whatever rank.

0[!he amnptuary laws enacted by

Calvin were severe, but were tuadij
enforced by the Consistory. Thcnr
ffl>ntainftd such enactments as the foi-
lowing: a dumer for ten persons was
limitM to five dishes; plush breeches
were laid under interoiot; violations
of the sabbath were followed by a
public admonition from the pulpit;
adultery was punished with death;
and the gamester was escposed in the
pillory, with a pack of osrds tied
rouna his neck.

Calvin was equally rigorous in the
maintenance of orthodoxy. Servetos,
condemned by him for holding anti-
trinitarian doctrines, which, however,
he did not attempt to disseminate in
Geneva, was burnt at the stake in
Ihe Champ de Bcurreau, the ancient
^ace of execution ontnde the walls.
The hole in which it was planted is
now filled up, and the destmation of
the spot is changed*

Geneva, thus become the metric
polls of Calvinism, and <*the Bome
of Protestantism," was resorted to by
many foreigners, who sought refuM
here from religious persecutions m
their own country. Among a num*
her of Knglish and Scotch exiled by
the cruelties of the Teiai of Queen
Kary, was John Knox. He was made
a citizen of Geneva in 1558, and did
not finally quit it till 1560. Calvin
died in 156^ at the age of 55, after
23 years of uninterrupted power: he
was buried in the oemetery o/ Ike
Flam Pdlak^ but he forbade the Ge-
nevese to mark tiie spot where his
remains were laid with a monument.

The I>uke of Savoy, for many
years after his andiority within Ihe
town had been destroyed, was en-
gaged in repeated open contests with
Sie dtizena ; nor did he omit to
maintain, vrithin the walls, spies and
secret partisans, in the hopes of gain-
ing possession ofit by surprise. The
street called CorraUrie, at the period
in question, ▲•d. 1602, the town ditoh^
was the scene of the most memo-
rable of these attempts, known in
Swiss history as the £aoalade. The
inhabitants, lulled to security by a
display of pacific intentions on the
part of the reigning Duke Charles

I 2

172

ROUTE 53.— GENEVA. ROUSSEAU. ENVIRONS.

Sect. I

Emanuel, had neglected all precau-
tions to guard against an attacK, even
though warnings had been given
them of approaching danger. On the
night of Dec. 20th tne townsfolk were
aroused from sleep by the firing of
musketry, and by an alarm that the
enemy was already in possession. It
appeared that a sentinel, in goins his
rounds with a lantern, had lallen
among a party of armed men, who
had quickly despatched him, but not
before his cries and the report of his
matchlock had aroused the rest of
the guard. It was quickly disco-
vered that a party of Savoyards, 200
.itrong, detached from a still larger
force of 2000 men, who had ap-
proached the city in the darkness, and
were posted on the Plain Palais, a
little distance beyond the walls, had
descended into the fosse of Corraterie,
and by the aid of scaling-ladders,
painted black, in order that they
might not be seen, had surmounted
the ramparts, were proceeding in
small parties to burst open the Porte
Neuve, and thus admit their asso-
ciates on the outside. The Savo3rards
had already despatched a messenger
announcin/to tLir ooimi»mder ^e
capture of the town ; but the citisens,
though completely taken by surprise,
were by no means seized with the
panic which such an occurrence was
likely to produce. Every man, armed
as he might be, issued out into the
streets ; tne small body of Savoyards
who had gained the ramparts were
quickly overpowered; the first guu
fired from the walls, by a chance
shot, swept away three of the scaling-
ladders ; and the enemy on the out-
side, on approaching the Porte ^leuve,
found that, instead of being blown
up, it was strongly guarded, vnth the
portcullis down. Many anecdotes
are told of the prowess of the towns-
people on that night; and an iron
saucepan, with which an old woman
knocked down a soldier, is still pre-
served in the arsenal, along with a
piece of the scaling-ladders. The
storming party, thus unexpectedly
attacked and at the same time cut
off from their friends, were quickly

killed or made prisoners. Those ^vt^ho
fell alive into tne hands of the Oexie-
vese were hung next day as house-
breakers : 67 heads were planted
along the ramparts, but many xnore
than these fell in the ditch and out-
side the town. The venerable Theodore
Beza, at that time 80 years old, ^a^e
out from the pulpit next day the
124th Psalm, which has been sung*
ever since on the anniversary o£ the
Escalade.

Jean Jacques Bousseau, son of a
watchmaker of Geneva, first saw the
light in a house, No. 40, Grande
Hue. The accident of his being'
shut out of the town one even-
ing, on his return from a walk, in-
duced him to fly frt)m his native
town, as he feared to face his master
next morning. His book, the Emile^
was burnt, m conformity with an
order of the Council of Geneva, by
the common hangman, in front of
the Hotel de Vifie, in 1762. The
instigators of this act were Voltaire
and the Council of the Sorbonne,
who, by a sii^gular coincidence, in
this instance acted in unison. T*he
Council at the same time issued a
warrant for the arrest of the author.

EwDxrcms of Geneva.

Omnibuses run to Carouge, St. Julien,
Lancy, Troinex, and Pemey, every
hour, and to Yandeuvre and Sacconex:
5 times a day. There is an American
tramway also to Carouge.

It has been already observed that
Geneva is chiefly distinguished for its
beautiful situation on the margin of an
enchanting lake, whose gently-sloping
banks are scattered over with villas,
surrounded by gardens, and looking
more like English country-houses
than any to be found in other parts of
the Continent.

The rides, walks, and views in the
vicinity are delightful, and almost
endless; but the great charm of every
prospect is the Mont Blanc, and the
range of Alps of Savoy, when they
deign to show themselves, which they
do not, in perfect distinctness, more

Switzerland, roitte 53. — GEKEVa. THE auve. mOKEtier. \li

than 60 times a year on an average;
There cannot be a more lovely sight
than that of Mont Blanc, and tne sur-
rounding Aiffuilles, tineed with the
^ink hue wnich the departing sun
aheds upon them in certain states of
the atmosphere. One of the finest
views of Mont Blanc is to be had
from the garden of Baron Ad.
Bothsehild's villa of Pregny, shown
by tickets, Sunday and Thursday,
12 tills.

a. The junction of the Arte with the
Rhone is well worth visiting, and is best
seen either from the tongue of land
between the tvro rivers, which is
reached on foot over the wire bridge
to i&e rt of the Forte Neuve, along
the \ bank of the Rhone by the gas-
works, or from the grounds of a
country-house called Chatellaine, or
Campague 3^tthieu, on the rt. bank
of thie Shone, about 1^ m. beyond the
Porte dsi Ck)rnavin. On the way to it,
les Delices, a country-house of Vol-
taire, is passed.

The Arve, a wide torrent fed by
the snows and glaciers of Mont Blanc,
looks like a river of mud. The pellucid
blue waters of the Bhone, driven on
one side by the furious entrance of its
new ally, for a long time refuse to mix
with it, and the line of separation be-
tween the blue and white water is
fistinctly marked. At length the Arve
gains the mastery; and the Rhone,
ODcepollated, does not recover its per-
fect parity before reaching the sea.

^ Oa the S.IB. side of Geneva rises
^Umt JSaleve, a long line of limestone
pre^iges, seeming to impend over the
towB, though it 19, in. reality, 5 m.
ol^iBd within the French territory.
Hiowwho are acquainted with Edin-
biii]§^jiiay be reminded of Salisbury
Cngs In looking at it The S. side of
this iBoantain is a gentle slope, covered
with verdant pasture and sprinkled
with houses. . The whole of this vast in-
clined plane, facing the Alps, is strewn
over with fragments of rock, identical
with that of which Mont Blanc is com-
posed (jp.. Ix.). The largest of these
masses is 7 ft long.

The summit of the Sal^ve (4560 fu%
more than 3100 ft. above the lake, is
frequently scaled by the inhabitants of
Geneva, who make picnic parties to
enjoy the view from its summit The
shortest road to it is by Caroug^ and
Veyrier (taking the junction of the
Arve on the way : there is a short(er
road back, 3 m.) ; whence a very
steep path, practicable only on foot,
partly formed by steps cut in the
rock, and called Pas de PEchelie, leads
up through a remarkable gap in the
mountain to the village of Monetier
(pronounced Monte) 2{m. Those who
cannot walk may reach Monetier by a
carriage-road, which makes a detour
of 8 m. from Geneva, through the
beautiful village of Momex, at the
back of the mountain. The pleasantest
way is to be driven to Monetier, thence
to ascend the Petit or the Grand Sal^ve
on foot, and to descend the Fas de
TEchelle on foot to Veyrier, whither
the carriage may be sent roimd to wait
for the party.

At Monetier is a comfortable stop-
ping-place, the Hotel and Pension
Reconnaissance, commanding beauti-
ful views, kept by civil people, and
prices reasonable. Prom thence to
the top is about an hour. Near
the top are the Chalets des Treize
Arbres (3850 ft), so called from
the presence of a few trees. The
view extends S. up the valley of
the Arve over the Mole to Mont
Blanc ; E. over a vast expanse of the
lake ; N. to the town of Geneva, the
Rhone, and the Jura behind; W. the
eye follows the valley of the Rhone
as t&r as the gap in the Jura mountain,
through which the river forces its way
into France. The stony path has been
superseded by a good carriage-road,
made at the expense of a Genevese,
Mr. Naville, whose residence. Grange
Gaby, crowns the top of 'the moun-
tain. Danger formerly arose from
attempting to descend through a
promising cleft or gorge, where a
very steep slope ends in an abrupt
precipice. Por any one accustomed
to mountains there is no danger what-
ever; but in 1853 one English gentle-
man was killed, and his companion

174

fiOTTTE 6S. — ^PERNElf. P&SL'fA Dtt fiB6N£!.

Sect.L

broke his thigh, in wandering abont
on the monntainy after losing their
way. This cleft, called the Grande
Gcrge, is fireanented hy botanists,
who there find seyeral rare plants.
The ascent was formerly difficut, but
ft sort of path has now oeen made.

c. On the S. shore of the lake, abont
2 m. from Geneya, and a little to the
L of the high road to Thonon, is the
Campagne DMhti, Lord Byron's resi-
dence in 1816, where he wrote 'Man-
fred,' and the third canto of * Childe
Harold.' Deodati, professor of theo-
lo|^y, it will be remembered, was a
fnend and correspondent of Milton,
who yisited him here.

On the oppsite side, on the hill of
Fregny, is the very commanding seat
of Baron Bothschild, bnilt with more
magnificence than taste; fine Views
firom the grounds: it is visited by
application at the banker Ferrier's,
Fiaoe dn Molard, Qenera.

d, Femey, the residence of Vol-
taire, is situated within the French
territory, about 5 m. N. of Gheneva.
On the way thither, near Grand Sa-
connex, an eminence presents one of
the best points of Tiew of Mont
Blanc.

Voltaire resided fbr nearly 20 years
at Feme^, from 1759 to 1777. He
may be said to be the founder of the
yillafi^ which, before his time, con-
sisted of but 6 or 8 hoTels. He col-
lected industrious colonists, introduced
useful manufiEUStures among them, and
improved his estate, of about 900 acres,
by draining, &C., besides building the
(Sidteau^ wmch still exists, but has
been so much altered that few traces
of the philosopher now remain. On
the L handy as you enter the gates,
he built the Church, orisinally in-
scribed witji the words ••I)eo erexit
Voltaire." The Theatre, in which
his own tragedies were acted by ama-
teurs, has wen. pulled down.

The situation of Femey is charm-
ing, in fhllview of the Alps and of Mont
Blanc; but the windows of the house,
excepting^ those of the Library, were
turned curectly away firom the land-

scape. Li the garden is a long ber-
ceau walk, closely arched over with
clipped horn-beam — a verdant cloister,
with gaps cut in it here and there, ad-
mitting^ a glimpse of the prospect.
Here Voltaire used to walk up and
down, and dictate to his secretary.

e. Perte dtt BhSne, — The excursion
to the Perte du Rhone at BeUegarde,
on the French frontier, may be recom-
mended. The distance is about 16 m.,
and it may be reached in 1 hr. by the
rly. The carriage-road from Col-
longes to Belleg^arde is very fine.
You enter

-— '* when the iwlft Rhone eleftvet his waj

between
Heights which appear as lovers who have

parted."

Tins part of the Bhone valley was
blocked up by Ctesar, to prevent the
emigration of the Helvetic nation, as
described in his Commentaries. This
he effected by throwing up works,
ramparts, ditches, and forts at suitable
spots on the L bank of the river, hav-
ing previously destroyed the bridge
at Geneva. He does not appear to
have made a continuous wall — ^the
banks of the river were so precipitous
as to render this imnecessary; only
at points where^ a landing or passage
was practicable^ there he cut ditches
and uirew up earthworks.

The lofty Vuache on the side of
Savoy, and the huge mass of the
highest part of the J ura chain, slope
predpitously down to the torrent of
the luione. The road hangs midway
in this prodigious passage; and the
Ibrt de VEduse, the fortress which
gives its name to the pass, commands
this entrance of France. Infinite la-
bour and expense have been used by
the French government to strengthen
this position since its destruction
by the Austrians, 1814. Additional
batteries have been hewn in the rock
above the lower fortress, and these
communicate with the guard-rooms
below by a broad staircase, of more
than 1000 steps, hewn inside the solid
mountain. Leave may sometimes be
obtained firom the governor to view

SwUzertand. boute 63. — geneVa. les voirons.

175

the fortress; but at any rate the road
passes through it, and enables the tra-
veller to see somethmg of its remark-
able defenoes.

!E*rom Collonges to Bellegarde
{E6tel de la Pogte) the road sweeps
along the wild gorge through which
the Shone pours. At Bellegarde it
crosses the narrow and rocky bed of
the Yalserine. The trareUer will
walk friMn the inn to the Perte du
Bhone ^ of a mile) ; he will find
pleotj of squalid glides to show him
the spot where the river, which he has
acoQmpaoied from the clear cistern of
its waters through the rough mountain
pass, plonges at once beneath an ac-
cniniilation of broken rocks which have
fallen from above and covered its bed
from side to side. When the waters
are tolerably low, as in the spring or
winter, the whole river is absorbed for
a distance of 120 yards; but the Sar-
dinian govemment, to facilitate the
floatage of timber, &c., has blown up
a chnaderable portion of the covering
rocks and laid bare the channel.
The bed of the Yalserine is more pic-
toresque, and scarcely less curious than
the Perte. It is also deeply cut in the
rock, but not so deep as the bed of the
Bhone, consequently has to make a
leap to join it. At the junction are
some very picturesque mills (^Moulin
de Mussel), one of which was nearly
annihilated by a falling rock, 1844.
It is worth while to descend fr'om the
gaiden of the inn into the worn chan-
nd of this little river, which is almost
diy in summer time, except where a
rimlflb of its water burrows into the
defta and fantastic bends of the cal-
canoos rock. The Malpertuis (p.
164) should be seen if possible.

/. Another pleasant excursion may

bejaiide to cTIvoune, where the river

Venoix takes its rise in a pretty grotto

at the ^t of the Jura; and people go

to eat the small delicate trout which

are taken in it. M. Paul Vidart's

great hydropathic establishment is

here. The view from the terrace of

the ChUteau d'lvoune is very fine. The

best road to go is by Coppet and

Celigny (where the waterfalls should

also be visited), and to retom by Per-
ney. The distance from Genera to
D'lvoune is 12 m.

g, LesVoirons — a wooded chain of
mtns. in Savoy, E. of Geneva. An in-
ferior Inn at the top. Omnibus at 5
P.M., from Rue de Rive, No. 3, to La
Bergue, at the foot of the mountain,
in 1^ hr. 3 hrs*. walk or ride to the
top.

h. The Reuillet, a point of Mt. Jura,
5643 ft., only 11 ft. lower than the
CrSt de la Neige, the highest point in
the whole chain. Drive to St. Genix,
and sleep at Thoiry. Next day break-
fast at the chalet of Narderau, and
walk along the top of the chain, de-
scending to Gex in time for omnibus
to Geneva. Take provisions. The
views are very fine.

Chcanouni and the shores of Lake Leman
mav be explored in 4 days from Geneva
— thus, Ist, by early steamer to Lau-
sanne or Vevay — ^by 2nd steamer on
to Villeneuve — in the evening by the
rly. to Martigny; 2nd, by the Tete
Noire or Col de Balme to Chamouni
(Rte. 138); 3rd, at Chamouni; 4th.
back to Geneva.

176

ROUTE 55.— GENEVA TO VILLElirEUVE.

Sect. I.

ROUTE 55.

GENEVA TO VILLENEUVE, BY LAUSANNE,
VEVAY, AND CHILLON. LAKE OP
GENEVA. — RAILWAY.

6| posts = 59 Eng. m.

Eng. m.
Geneva.

Goppet 10

Rolle 12

Morges 9

Lausanne 8

Vevay ...... 11^

Villeneuve ..... 9

Ely. to Bussigny and Lausanne.
As &r as Coppet it belongs to the
Lyons and Geneva Co. From Coppet
it belongs to the Western Rly. of
Switzerland. The continuation of
this line from Lausanne to YilleDeuve
and Sion was opened for traffic in
1862. But for those who are not in a
violent hurry a far more pleasant
route is by

Steamboat — Steamers leave Geneva
and Villeneuve, at the two extre-
mities of the lake, twice a day. They
■ make the voyage from one end to
the other in aoout 5 hours. The
steamers do not take carriages. They
stop to land and receive passengers at
Coppet, Nyon, Bolle, Morges, Ouchy
(the port of Lausanne), 3 hrs., Vevay
4 hrs., and Villeneuve — all situated
on the N. shore of the lake, and
described below. Another steamer
plies between Geneva and the towns
on the S. (Savoy) side of the lake.
(Rte. 57.)

Lake Leman, in a Calm,

** Clear, placid Leman I thy contrasted lake,
With the wild world I dwelt in, is a tiling
Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake
Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring.
This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing
To waft me from distraction ; once I loved
Torn ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring
Sounds sweet as if a Sister's voice reproved.

That I with stern delights should e^ have
been so moved.

It is the bush of night, and all between.

Thy margin and the mountains, dusk, yet

clear.
Mellowed and mingling, yet distinctly Sfcen,
Save darken'd Jura, whose capt nei|;hta

appear
Precipitously steep; and drawing near.
There breathes a living fragrance from the

shore.
Of flowers yet fresh with childhood ; on the

ear
Drops the light drip of the suspended oar.
Or chirps the grasshopper one good-nigh^ carol

more.
• • * • • *

At intervals, some bird from out the brcJves
Starts into voice a moment, then is still.
There seenu a floating whisper on the hill.
But that is frincy, — for the starlight dew^s
All silently their tears of love instil.
Weeping themselves away."

Lake Leman, in a Storm,

" The sky is changed I — and such a change I

Oh night.
And storm, sod darkness, ye are wondrous

strong.
Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light
Of a dark eye in woman! Par along.
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among
Leaps the live thunder 1 Not from onelone

cloud.
But every mountain now hath found a

tongue.
And Jura answers, through her misty shroud.
Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud I

Now, where the swift Rhone cleaves his way

between
Heights which appear as lovers who have

parted
In hate, whose mining depths so intervene
That they can meet no more, though broken>

hearted !
Though in their souls, which thus each other

thwarted.
Love was the very root of the fond rage
Which blighted their life's bloom, and then

departed:
Itself expired, but leaving them an af^e
Of years all winters, — war within themaelveB to

w^age.

Now, where the quick Rtione thus hath cleft

his way, Tstand:

The mightiest of the storms hath ta en his
For here, not one, but many, make their

play* [hand.

And fling their thunder-bolts from hand to
Flasliing and cast around : of all the band.
The brightest through these parted hills hath

fork'd
His lightnings, — as if he did understand.
That in such gaps as desolation veork'd.
There the hot shaft should blast whatever

therein lurk'd.

And this is in the night : — Most glorious

night 1
Thou wert not sent for slumber I let me be
A sharer in thy fierce and far delight, —

Smtzsrland,

IlOUTE 65. — THE LAKb Ofr GENEVA.

Ill

A portion of the tempeat and of thee !
Hov the lit IjJce ^nes, a phoephorie wa.
And theb^ nin coaesdancinr to the eaith I
And BOW aicain 't is black,— and now, the glee
Oftlieload hills diakas with iti moanUin-
mixth,
Asif ihey:.dad rejoice o*er a yoang earthquake's

Sky, — *— ^frt, river, winds, lake, light*

ni^pl ye I
WiOi Hint, and doads, and thander, and a

TomaketheM felt and feelings, well may be
Thinn tint haTe made me watchful ; the far

zoU
Of your departing Toices is the knoll
Ot what ia me is sleepless, — ^if I rest.
But vhoe of ye, oh tempests I is the goal ?
Are ye like those within the human bieast ?
Or do ye find, at length, like eagles, some high
aertr Bifrvn,

The Lake of Geneys, called by the
Bomans Lacus Liemanaa, has nearly
the shape of a half-moon, its horns
hemg tomed towards the S. It is the
largest lake in Switzerland, being 55
m. long, measured close to its N. shore,
and aboot 40 m. along its S. bank; it
is 6 m. wide at the broadest part (be-
tween fioUe and Thonon), and its
nest depth (between Evian and
y) is 900 ft. Its surface is about
1142 ft above the level of the sea, but
the height often varies in the year
more than 50 inches, beiug usually
lowest in the winter, between Jan. and
April, and highest in Aug. and part of
Jiuy and Sept., owing to the supplies
Aea derived from the melting snows
Kod glaciers. Besides these periodical
vaiiatioiis, the Liake is subject to other
more aibitrary changes of level, called
seuAet, This phenomenon consists of
a swUmi nse and fall of the water in
partleolar parts of the lake, indepen-
d^idy of the agency of the wind or of
any «0ier apparent cause. It is most
^nniBOB m the vicinity of Geneva,
these oscillations the waters
rise 5 ft., though the usual
not more than 2; it never
lasts longer than 25 minutes, but it is
genenHy less. The cause of these
leicfaes has not been explained with
certainty, but they are observed to
oocnr most commonly when the clouds
are heavy and low. The lake never
freezes over entirely, owing to its
great depth; but in severe winters

the lower extremity is covered with
ice. The sand and mud brought
down by the Bhone and deposited
around its mouth have caused consi-
derable encroachments upon its upper
extremity : even within tne records of
history rorte Valais stood on its mar-
gin, and its basin is reported to have
originally extended upwards as far as
Bex.

"Hon lac est le premier,'* are the
words in which Voltaire has vaunted
the beauties of the Lake of Geneva;
and it must be confessed that, though
it wants the gloomy sublimity of the
Bay of Uri and the sunny softness of
the Italian lakes, with their olive and
citron ^^ves, it has high claims to
admiration. It also possesses great
variety of scenery. The vine-covered
slopes of Vaud contrast well with the
abrupt, rocky precipices of Savoy.
Near Geneva the hilu subside, admit-
ting an exquisite view of Mont Blanc,
whose snowy summit, though 60 m.
distant, is onen reflected in its waters.

*' Lake Leman wooe me with its crystal ftM:e,
The minor where the stars and mountains

view
The stillness of tlieir aspect in each trace
Its clear depth yields of their far height and

hue."

At its E. or upper extremity it extends
to the very base of the high Alps,
which by their close vicinity give its
scenery a character of increased mag-
nificence.

The boats on the lake are very pic-
turesque, having lateen sails Uke the
craft of the Mediterranean. It is
generally calm, but not the dead calm
of the mountain lakes ; occasionally
the bize, a cold E. wind, is very strong,
and causes considerable motion in the
steamers from Geneva until they get
beyond Lausanne. The S.W. wind
is described as still stronger. These
are the only winds which materially
affect the lake.

Among the fish of the lake trouts
are rare; the Lotte, on which Bous-
seau's Julie makes her last repast, is
described as ** une esp^co de barbeau,
assess fade, peu cher, et commun."

Railway to Lausanne^ 6 trains daily
in 1^ to 2\ hrs.

I 3

178

ttOlTTS 55.— THE LIES OF GENEVA. CX)PPEf • SeCt* 1»

The railway embankment has been
carried along the edge of the It^e,
thus in many places marringits beauty,
and interrupting the Tiew, firom the
sloping banks and houses built on
them.

The first part of the road out of
Genera lies among yillas and pleasure
grounds not unlike English country-
seats. Few spots in Europe present so
many admirable sites for a dweUine
as the shores of Lake Leman in fufi
Tiew of Mont Blanc. At S^heron,
on the lake. Sir Bobert Peel has a
▼ilia, and at PrSjny is Baron Adolph
Bothschild's superb chftteau. After
a mile or two Mont Bhmc is hid
behind the interrening mountains of
Yoirons, and does not reappear until
near Nyon.

The parish of Venoix^ through
which the road passes, formerly be-
longed to France. The Duke de
Choiseul, minister of Louis XV., irri-
tated with some proceedings of the
inhabitants of Geneya, proposed to
raise a rival cily at Versoix which
should deprive Genera of its trade.
A pier was projected into the lake to
form a port, a grand Place was laid
down» streets running at right angles
were marked out; but beyond this the
plan was nerer carried into execution.
Hence the rerses of Voltaire : —

'*'A VecMiz noQs arons des rues,
Mais nous n'avons pas de maisons.'*

A little be vond Versoix (now an in-
oonsiderable rillage) we pass out of the
oanton of Gknera into that of Vaud.

Coppet — (/iMi.* Ange) — a small ril-
lage of 600 Inhab., oi^y remarkable
for the Chdteauy inmiemately behind
it, but so placed as to conmiandno
view of the lake. It is now the pro-
perty of Madame de Stael Vemet
tt is a plain edifice, forming three
^ides of a square, the front towards
the lake being flanked with a tower
^t each end. It was the residence of
^Sfadame de Stael the author, as well
as of her fkther, the French minister
Necker. There are portraits of her
by David, of her parents M. and Ma-
dame Necker, and a marble bust of
M. Rocca, Madame de Stael's second

husband. One room is pointed out aft
the study in which the authoress of
Corinne composed many of her works.
Her inkstana and desk are still pre-
serred. The grounds are traversed
by shady walks; and a dump of trees
surrounded by a wall, in a field a little
to the W. of the house, shrouds from
riew a sort of chapel in whieh Necker
and his daughter are buried.

Nyon {Inn: Couronne), a to'wii of
2682 Inhab., stands on a heigrht ; but
its suburbs, through which the hig^
road runs, extend down to the lake.
It was the Boman Noridunum. Prom
the Terrasse des Marroniers near
the fine old chateau once the seat of
the Bailll de Nyon, there is a rery
fine riew.

[An excellent carriage-road ascends
the Jura from this in rigzags to St.
Cergnes,from which the D6le, the high-
est summit of this part of the chain of
the Jura, can be most easily ascended.
Mules and guides can be procured at
the small Inn of St Cergnes, which
affords tolerable accommodation for
a night The ascent requires about
3 hours; but it is neither &tig^uing
nor dangerous. ''Perhaps there is
no mountain in Switzenand which
better repars the trareller for his
fatigue, and no riew more wonder-
fully extensire and admirably di-
rersified than that which it com-
mands."]

Bolle. {Inns: Couronne; T^te Noire.)
The hillB around this rillage are co-
rered witli rineyards, producing a to-
lerable wine. One of the best vandois
wines is grown on the slope between
Bolle and Aubonne, called La Cote.

On the opposite shore of the lake is
discerned tne Gulf of ITionon, and
the snowy head of Mont Blanc peer-
ing orer the mountains of the Chablais.
Further on the rocks of Meillerie and
the entrance of the Talais appear.

[A few miles abore Bolle is .Ai-
botme — Inns: Couronne; Liond'Or)—
an ancient town of 1667 Inhab., with
an Eastern-looking Castle. Byron
says of it— "The entrance and bridge
something like that of Durham Tit

Suitzertand. route 55. — morges. ouohy. Lausanne,

179

commands hj far the fairest view of
the lake of Geneva (and of Mont
Blanc behind it) ; a grove on the
height of very noble trees. Here Ta-
veroier, the ^Eastern traveller, bought
(or bmlt) the chatean, because the
site resembled and equalled that of
'Efmva, a frontier city of Persia.
Here he finished his voyages.** The
Chvrdi ooatains the monument of the
brave French Admiral Duquesne, the
conqneror of De Ruyter — the chas-
tiserof the Turkish and Algerine cor-
sairs, ^vhose services Louis XIV. re-
fosed to recompense, and whose body
that monarch fbr a long time denied
to his son,— exiled to Aubonne by the
revocation of the Edict of Nantes, be-
cause Duqnesne was a Protestant, and
refused to adopt the king's religion.
Aoboime is less than 3 m. distant from
the lake. On the hills sloping down
towards the lake called La Cote, be-
tween Anbonne and Nyon, grows the
host Swiss wine, called le Moviart,

The Signal de Bougy — above Au-
bonne, 2730 ft. above the sea-level— is
a celebrated point of view.]

Morges St<xt, {Inn: La Couronne.)
dose to the small port of this little
town of 2800 Inhab. rises the pictur-
esque Oastle of Wufflens, distinguished
by its tall white square donjon and
gKmp of minor turrets, built of brick,
wi& deep machicolations, probably in
the 13th cent. It is said to have been
founded by Queen Bertha in the 10th
orat Tne carria?e-road continues
near the shore of the lake. The rly.
toms inland to

JBntmmy Janet. Stat Here the rly.
firam Tv^un (Bte. 49) and Berne
joiiift, Host of the trains from Geneva
to Tverdun go on to Lausanne, and
thai iMdc again to Bussigny.

The distant view of Lausanne,

seated on sloping hills and sur-

jnomtted by its cathedral and castle,

23 pleasing. Between it and the lake,

3t the distance of f m., stands the

vSlAge of

Ouchy, which may be termed the
port of Lausanne. {Inns: A very
^^e liouse, the Hdtel de Beaurivage,
tinaer the management of Mr. Alex.

Rufenacht, formerly landlord of the
H. des Bergues at Geneva; — Ancre; —
Hotel and Pension Bachoffner, good ;
both houses kept by an English land-
lady. Families may live here en pen-
sion at the rate of 30 or 40 fr. a week
each person.) Lord Byron wrote the
* Prisoner of Chillon * in the Ancre
inn, in the short space of two days,
during which he was detained here
by bad weather, June, 1816 : ** thus
adding one more deathless association
to the already immortalized localities
of the lake.*'

Lausanne Stat., midway between
Ouchy and Lausanne. Omnibuses run
in connexion with the steamers —
fare ^ fr., or 1 fr. with luggage.

Lausanne. (Inns: Faucon, very
good; Hotel Gibbon, finer position,
good and clean, but bustling; Hotel
Bichemont, near the rly. stat, a Pen-
sion ; *BeIlevue, quiet, reasonable,
and finely situated; Hotel Belvedere,
"comfortable** — (7. B,: all these are
first-class hotels. 2nd Class Inns:
Raisin, Trois Suisses. Hotel du Grand
Pont, in the town, commercial.)

Lausanne, capital of the canton
Vaud, contains 20,515 Inhab. (670
Roman Cath.). The Pays de Yaud
(Germ. "Waadtland) was originally
subject to the Dukes of Savoy, but,
having been conquered by the Bernese,
remained tributary to that republic for
2^ centys., imtil 1798, when it acquired
its independence, which, however, it
retained in 1814 only by the payment
of a large sum of money, and then
became a member of the Swiss Con-
federation. The constitution was ren-
dered more democratic by changes in
1830 and 1845 ; it is now one of
the cantons the most imbued with the
revolutionary opinions common on the
Continent. The language spoken is
French. 200,000 Inhab. ; 192,000 Prot.
The town, with its high roofs, castle,
and cathedral, is itself picturesque,
and is most picturesquely situated
on the lower slope of the Mont Jorat,
which sinks g^radually down to the
lake, intersected by several ravines,
giving it the form of distinct emin-
ences. From this cause the old streets

180

ROUTE 65. — ^LAUSANNE. CATHEDRAL.

Sect. I.

ranging over broken ground are a
series of ups and downs: many are
very steep. A causeway and viaduct,
called from its builder Pont Pichard,
or Grand Pont, have been made to
span the valley from the front of
tne Hotel Gibbon, and a winding road,
carried on a level along its E. bank,
renders the centre of the town and
cathedral much more accessible than
formerly.

The Castle and Cathedral are on
an eminence in the old walled town,
which is still called the Cite. Start-
ing from H. Gibbon, and keeping to
the rt for a short distance, any of the
streets up the hill to the 1. will lead
to

The Cathedral (at the foot of the
flight of steps leading to it from the
market-place ask for the keys of the
door, kept at the sexton's house. No. 5),
one of the finest and largest Gothic
churches in Switzerland, 833 ft. long,
61 ft. high, was founded a.d. 1000, but
the existing building dates from 1275.
The interior is singular in its con-
struction, and very beautiful, though
much altered by modem arrange-
ments. The circular apse, at the
eastern end, is singular and complete,
both as a continuation of the nave
and of the aisles. The Triforium
Gallery is carried continuously along
the nave, the transept, and the apse ;
above it is a second gallery, equally
complete, but it is arranged in com-
partments of triple arches, for the pur-
pose of enabling it to conform to
the openings of the windows.

Obs, the W. and S. portals, the rose
window in the transept, and portions
of the fine carved stalls removed from
the choir after a fire in 1823.

Among the monuments within the
church are a mailed effigy of Otho of
Granson ; — the tomb of Victor Ame-
deus Vni. (Voltaire's " Bizarre
Amedee "), who was Duke of Savoy,
Bishop of Geneva, and Pope under
the title of Felix V., but resigned
in succession all these dignities, pre-
ferring to end his days as a monk
in the convent of Bipaille, on the op-
posite shore of the lake: it is much

mutilated; of Bp. W. de Menthonex;
— of Harriet Stratford Canning, by
Bartolini ; — of the mother of the Prus-
sian Minister von Stein. Mostoftliese
monuments were foolishly removed
from their proper places in 1828.

There is a beautiful view from, tlie
terrace at the W. end of the Cathedral*
partially obstructed by the present
prison, formerly the Archbiabiop's
palace.

Ascending again to the N. of Uie
Cathedral, we reach the Chateau, or
Castle, a picturesque, massive square
tower with 4 turrets at the angles.
It was ori^nally the residence of the
Bishops of Lausanne, but is now con-
verted into public offices, and entirely-
modernised internally. Two rooms,
however, have been restored — ^not in
the best taste — and are shown.

Passing out under the old archway
of the Chateau to the N., you may
either ascend to the Signal, which lies
straight before you, or turn to the rt.,
and walk along the road at the side
of the ravine of the Flon — a walk
which shows the picturesque buildings
of Lausanne to advantage — and so
return to the town. The large hand-
some building on the S. of the Cit€
is the Hospital.

In the College, founded 1587, not
far from the Cathedral, is a Cctntonal
Museum, in which are some objects of
interest, — such as a collection of
minerals from Bex and a model of the
salt-mines there. It is not deficient in
the other branches of natural history.
A specimen of the silurus glanis, one
of the largest fresh-water fishes* came
from the lake of Morat. Many anti-
quities discovered within the canton,
at Aventicum, and Celtic remains
from the Swiss Lakes and the borders
of the Lake Leman, also some r^ics of
Napoleon, his Waterloo saddle, fowl-
ing-piece, &C., are preserved here.

There is also a Picture GaUery
{Mus€e Arlaud) opposite the Com
Exchange, containing modem and
ancient paintings, works of Calame,
Didayy &c.

The Blind Asylum, founded by the

Switzerland. SOUTE 55. — LAUSANNE. tiOdSfi Ot GIfiBOK.

181

late Mr. Haldlmand, an English-
man of Swiss descent, is admirably
inanaged bjr Mr. HirzeL

The house of G^jhon^ in which he

Gonmleted the History of Rome, was

in tte lower part of tne town, behind

the dmrch or St. Francis, and on the

right of the road leading down to

Oodiy. Both it and the garden have

been entirely changed. The wall of

the Hotel Gibbon occupies the site of

his mnuner-house, and the herceau

walk has been destroyed to make

room fat the garden of the hotel, bat

the tenrace overlooking the lake, a

lime and a few acacias, remain.

"It was on the day, or rather the
nig^tjofthe 27th of June, 1787, be-
tween the hours of 11 and 12, that I
VTote the last line of the last page
io ft summer-house in my earden.
After laying down my pen I took
ttveral turns in a berceau, or covered
walk of acacias, which commands a
prospect of the country, the lake, and
the mountains. The air was tem-
perate, the sky was serene, the silver
orb of the moon was reflected from
the waves, and all nature was silent."
Gt&6oii^« Life.

The English Church service is per-
feraied in an English chapel built
^ the late Mr. Haldimand in his
grounds on the road to Ouchy.

The Post and Telegraph office is in
thellace St.Fran<;ois,near H. Gibbon.
B^Bou and Co., 7, Rue de Bourg,
have an excellent Beading-room well
Replied with English papers, and a
cneiiatlng library.

Mmboays to Yverdun (Bte.49), Ge-
BSfB, and Basle ; to Freiburg and
Bene (Rte. 45). The Stat is below
the lown, on the road to Ouchy.

SUmAoats touch at Ouchy, the
port of Lausanne, on their way to
either extremity of the lake.

The neighbourhood of Lausanne is
ikmoiis for the number and beauty
of the walks which it presents. Here,
and throughout the wme-growing dis-
tricts boraering the lake, strangers
must beware of the alleys and narrow

walks between walls or high hedges,
which abound in every direction. Ap-
pearing to lead up a hill, or to some
favourable point of view, they are con-
stantly closed at the end by a gate,
with a notice against trespassers. The
law is severely enforced a^inst any
one entering a vineyard without the
owner's permission. ^Partial and pleas-
ing glimpses of the lake are obtained
from the terraces within the town, and
from the fine boulevard of Montbenotif
just outside the walls, on the old road
to Geneva ; but far more extensive
and beautiful prospects are presented
from the heights aoove the town. The
best spot for an extensive survey is
the elevated platform called the Signal,
accessible to carriages. It lies nearly
N. of the town, directly behind the
Ch&teau. Near it is the extensive
forest of Sauvabellin (Silva Belini),
in which it is said the Druids
once worshipped the god Bel, and
thence its name. There are a great
number of country-seats in the vi-
cinity ; that of Vemant is highly
praised ; its grounds have the charac-
ter of an English park, with the Alps
and the lake in addition. Mont
Blanc is not visible from the Sie;na],
but may be seen firom the top of the
Jorat, on the road to Berne.

About 2 m. out of Lausanne, beyond
the Calvaire, on the Berne road, is
the Cemetery of Pierre de Plain. John
Philip Kemble, the tragedian, is bu-
ried within it. His tomb is a plain
flat slab, one of 9 or 10 in a row, all
English sraves. The house where he
died is called Beau Site ; the planta-
tions were all laid out by himself.

A Celtic burial-ground has been
discovered at Bel Air, near Cheseaux,
6 m. N.W. of Lausanne.

The Ely. to Vevay runs along the
slope of the Jorat, here covered with
vineyards (Lavaux), industriously ter-
raced high up the hills extending
to Vevay. Near Vevay, the g^rge of
the Rhone appears in sieht, over-
looked by the snowy peaks of the
I Dent du Midi

182

ROUTE 65.— VEVAt. WINES,

Sect. t.

At Fnlly an inferior sort of coal,
aboondin? in solphur, is dug from a
mine in the hill-side.

11m. Veoay Stat, (Grerm. Viyis). Inns:
Hdtel Monnet, or Trois Conronnes,
close to the lake: one of the best inns
in Switzerland, comfortable and clean:
a very large house; reading -room\
chains not ont of proportion with the
comfort; frequently fall. From Oct.
15 to May 1 you may live here mo-
derately ^n pennon. H. du Lac Leman,
small, clean, and comfortable: view
over lake. Lodging 1 fr. 50 c ; dinner
3 frs. ; breakfast 1 to 2 frs. ; servants
50 c. The Chiteau de Vevay is a
respectable boarding-house. Trois
Bois. Above the town, in the village
of Chardonnes, is a good and reason-
able pension, H. Bellevue.

Veoay^ the Boman Yibiscum, is
the second town in canton Vaud,
and has 6600 Lihab. It is prin-
cipally distinguished for the ex-
ceeding beauty of its situation, at the
mouth of the gorge of the Veveyse,
on the margin of uie Lake Leman, at
a point where the scenery of its banks
is perhaps most beautiful The writ-
ings of Bousseau have contributed
not a little to its celebrity in this
respect.

From the little terrace at the end
of the market-place, or from the roof
of tiiie Trois Uouronnes, or, better
still, from the villa called Hauteville,
about 2 m. above Vevay, the eye sur-
veys on the E. the village of Clarens,
Montreux, Chillon; beyond it Ville-
neuve and the gorge of the Bhone,
backed by the gigantic Alps of the
Yalais, the Dent de Midi, and Fain
de Sucre, Mont Yelan (neighbours of
the Great St. Bernard); wmle on the
opposite shore of the lake rise the
rocks of Meillerie, surmounted by
the peaks of t^e Dent d'Oche, and the
villa&re of St Gingoueh, at the foot
of uie mountains. The walks in
the immediate neighbourhood are
somewhat dull, as the whole country
consists of vineyards, surrounded by
stone walls.

In the Ch. of 8t. Martin, a little

above the town, situated amidst trees
and vineyards, and used only in sum-
mer (date 1438), Ludlow the regicide
is buried, as well as Broughton, -who
read the sentence of death to Charles L.
They died here in exile, a price hay-
ing been set upon their heads; and
repeated applications were made to
the canton of Berne to deliver them
up, which the government very pro-
perly refused to accede to. JauHow's
home still exists on the road to Lia
Tour de Feilz; he placed over his door-
way this inscription — ** Omne soltun
forti patria." The tablet is remoyed
to England, and his house is now the
Pension Delessert. Most of the houses
have had new fronts added towards
the lake. Pleasant walks and views '
from the gardens of Mr. Couyreu :
the Park of Hautemlle IJ m. N.E.

The English CK service is performed
on Sundays in St. Clair at 11 and
3-30.

Physician. — Dr. Henri Curchod,
speaks English.

C. Prost, watch and chronometer
maker and bgoutier, is in good repate
here.

Many Excursions may be made from
Vevay oy land or water: a, to the Cha-
teau of Haateville, H m. N.E., fine view
and pretty grounds; 6, 2i m. still
higher the ancient Castle of Blonay:^ *
wmch has belonged to l^e same family
700 years ; c, ascent of the Pleycmx
or Pleiades, 4213 ft., about 6 m.; d,
Clarens (see below) ; e, Montreux and
Chillon. Chillon is a morning drive. A
pleasant shady path or char-road, in-
terrupted at times by the rly., on the
slope of the hills, above the dusty
highway, leads in 64 m. to Montreux
and Chillon. (The route may be
varied by taking the upper road.)

Boats at 1 fr. the hour.

Omnibus from Vevay to Ghexhres
Stat, to meet the trains fr^m Berne
and Preyburg. Ascent in IJ hr.

The railroad from Vevay to Frey-
burg by Bulle is described Kte. 45.

Tne wines of the neis^hbourhood of
Vevay, especially of uie sunny dis-
trict extending hence to Lausanne,
and called Lavaux, ei\joy a consider-

Sdntz^tand.

ROtJTB 66.— CLARENS.

183

able reputation for Swiss wines. The

Bomans are beliered to have first

planted tiie yine on these hills; and

the diacovery , of a stone inscribed

" Idbero Patri Colliensi" proves that

they had erected a temple to Father

Bacchns at OoUimn, a little village

now called OnUy, on the margin of tne

lake, between V evaj and Lausanne.

A society or guild of high antiquity,
caOfid fAbbaye des Vignercns, exists at
YeTfiy to promote the cultivation of
tiie^ioe; and for this purpose it de-
spatdies every spring and autumn
" experts,'* qualified persons, to sur-
vey all the vineyards of the district,
and upon their report and testimony
it rewards the most skilful and indus-
trious vinedressers with medals and
pnuung-hooks (serpes d'honneur) as
prizes.

In acoordance with ancient custom
vliich is possibly a relic of pagan su-
perstition, this society celebrates once
in 15 or 20 years a festival called la
Fete des Vignerons, As many as 600 or
700 persons took part in the last
festival, and a ballet-master of the
French opera was employed to drill
and instruct the rustics in dancing.
The last anniversaries were in 1833,
1851, and 1865.

The beautiful path from Vevay
or Montreux over the Pass of Jaman,
and the road thence to Thun, in
Bte.42.

llie attractions of the climate and
we&ery of the N.E. shore of Lake
Leman, and the cheapness of living,
have caused its hills and slopes to
be icattered over with hotels, pen-
aioiiB, and boarding-honses almost
lUDidierless ; many of them pleasant
readences for the invalid, who may
here take a course of grapes {cure de
rocm), or of goats whey (cure de petit
laS), The grape cure begins in Sept.
and lasts about 4 weeks.

About a mile out of Vevay the ham-
let of Ja Tour de Peilz, with a castle
Iniilt at the water-side in the 13th
century, is passed.

3 J m. Olarens (J hr. by rail or steamer
irom Vevay Stat.), so sentimentally
described by Bousseau in the Nouvelle |

Heloise. It commands certainly one
of the finest views over the lake — the
mountains of the Rhone va^ey and of
the opposite shore, but in itself is a poor
village, far less attractive than many
of its neighbours, and it probably
owes its cdebrity to a weU-sounding
name, which fitted it for the pages of
a romance. Bousseau's admirers have
puzzled themselves with endeavouring
to identify the localities, though he
has himself stated that they are **gros-
si^rement alteres." The spot on which
the beautiful ** bosquet de Julie ** is
sought for is now a potato-field.
Byron says that the trees were cut
down b^ the monks of St. Bernard,
and lavishes some unworthy and un-
deserved abuse upon those hospitable
ecclesiastics; but ne has forgotten to
ask whether the bosquet really ever
had any existence except in Bous-
seau's imagination. Byron, indeed,
viewed the spot with a poet's eye,
and the exquisite beauty of the sur-
rounding scenery, which has been
accurately described by Bousseau,
called up all the poet's enthusiasm
and inspiration.

*< ClarensJ sweet Clareni, birthplace of deep

Love I
Thine air ia the young breath of passionate

thought :
Thy trees take root in Loto ; the snows above
The very glaciers have his colours caught,
And sunset into rose^hues sees them wrought
By rays which sleep there lovingly: the rocks.
The permanent crags, teli here of Love, who

sought
In them a refuge from the worldly shocks
Which stir and sting the soul with hope that

W008, then mocks.

« Clarena I by heavenly feet thy paths are

trod —
Undying Love's, who here ascends a tl^rone
To which the steps are mountains ; where the

god
Is a pervading life and liffht,— so shown
Not on those summits s^ely, nor alone
In the still cave and forest ; o'er the flower
His eve is sparkling, and his breath hath

blown.
His soft and summer^breath, whose tender

power
Passes the strengUi of storms in their most

desolate hour.

** All things are here othim; from the black
pines,
Which are his shade on high, and the loud roar
Of torrents, where he listeneth, to the vines
Which slope his green path downward to the
shore,

184

ROUTE 65.— CLAREKS. MOJ^TREUX.

Sect. 1.

Where the bow'd wateis meet him, and adore.
Kissing his feet with murmurs ; and the wood.
The covert of old trees, with trunks all hoar.
But light leaves, young as Joy, stands where it
stood.
Offering to him and his a populous solitude^

** A populous solitude of bees and birds.
And fairy-form'd and many-colour'd things,
Who wonhip him with notes more sweet than

words.
And innocently open their glad wings.
Fearless and full of life : the gush of springs.
And fall of lofty fountains, and the bend
Of stirring branches, and the bud which

brings
The swiftest thought of beauty, here extend,
Mingling, and made by Love, unto one mighty

end.

** 'T was not fbr fiction chose Rousseau this spot,
Peopling it with affections ; but he founa
It was the scene which passion must allot
To the mind's purified beings; 'twas the

ground
Where early Love his Psyche's sone unbound,
And hallow'd it with loveliness : 't is lone.
And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound.
And sense, and sight of sweetness ; here the

Rhone
Hath spread himself a conch, the Alps have

rear'd a throne."

In the ch.yard of Clarens (fine
views) is buried Vinet the divine
(d. 1847). In the same place is a
monument by the sculptor Imhof.

The swelnng hills and vine-clad
slopes, which form the banks of the
lake nearly all the way from Geneva,
here give place to beetling crags and
woody precipices rising abruptly from
the water's edge. The road sweeps
in curves round the retired bays at
their feet

Vet-nex, Montreux Stat. H. du
Cygne, good: pension, 4 fr.

Montreiuc, H. de Montreux. Eng-
lish service on Sundays at the parish
church. One of a group of villages
widely scattered over the hill-side.

This village, seated on an eminence
(1.) above we road, with its church
spire a little apart from its houses, is
much prettier m itself and in its situa-
tion than Clarens. It abounds in Pen-
sions long established, and much fre-
quented by foreigners. The best of
tnese is the Pension Vaultier, in the
village of Montreux, very well kept;
another which is well recommended
is the Hdtel des Alpes, at the hamlet
of Territet. At Veytaux, an increas-

ing place, is also the H. des Alpes, a
large edifice. The usual charge at
these pensions is 5 f r. a day; in some
even less.

** It is celebrated as the most shel-
tered spot on the banks of the lake of
Geneva, and the remarkable salu-
brity of its climate renders it desirable
winter-quarters for invalids who can-
not cross the. Alps. The statistical
researches of Sir F. dTvemois have
shown that Montreux is the place in
the world where there is the smallest
proportion of deaths and of imprudent
marriages." — M.

At Glim, 2800 ft. above the sea,
f hr. drive, above Montreux, in a
bracing situation for invalids, two
hotels and pensions have been esta*
blished. The lareest and best situated
of these is called the Rigi Vacudoii^
a new house (1867), 100 beds; com-
fortable, with salon, smoking-room,
newspapers, resident chaplsun — bed
and board 7 frs. a day ; H. du Midi
(Beuteler), good ; charge 6 frs. a day,
and ^ fr. for service.

Veytaux Stat, (/nnet Pension Bonni-
vard). Close to this stat., about
1} m. from Montreux, stands the
picturesque and renowned Castie of
Chillon (Hotel and Pension Bonnivard
is well spoken of), on an isolated rock
nearly surrounded by deep water, but
within a stone's throw of the shore and
of the road, with which it communicates
by a wooden bridge. It was built in
1238 by Amedeus IV. of Savoy, and
was long used as a state prison, where,
among other victims, many of the
early reformers were immured. When
Byron, in the * Prisoner of Chillon,'|de-
scribed the sufferings of an imaeinary
captive, he was not acquainted with
the history of the real prisoner, Bon-
nivard, prior of St Victor, who, having
rendered himself obnoxious to the
Duke of Savoy by his exertions to
free the Genevese from the Savoyard
yoke, was seized by the Duke's emis-
saries, and secretly carried off to this
castle. For 6 long years he was
buried in its deepest dnng^n, on a
level with the surface of the lake.

Sioitzerland.

ROUTE 55. — CASTLE OP CHILLON.

185

The Tins hy wliich he was attached
to one of the pillars still remains, and
the stone iioor at its base is worn by
his constant pacing to and fro. Byron
afterwards wrote the sonnet on Bon-

niTard, from which the following lines

«r« taken: —

* C^tDoal thy prison is a holy pUee,

Aai thy wmA floor an altur ; for 't was trod

HidilUsTcary steps have left a trace
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod,

BTjBoBiuTard I May none those marks efface I
F<r tiMy api>eml itoxa tyranny to Ood."

At kngth, in 1 536, the Swiss wrested
the Pays de Vaud from the hands of
Charles V. of Sayoy. Chillon was
the last place T^hich held out for him ;
but an army of 7000 Bernese besieg-
ing it by land, while the ealleys of
the GeooTese assaulted it lay water,
soon compelled it to surrenaer, and
Bonniyara, with other captives, was
set free. The changes which had
oocorred daring the years of his im*
prisonment almost realised the legend
of the Seven Sleepers. He -had left
Geneva a Boman Catholic state, and
dependent on the Duke of Savoy; he
found her £ree, and a republic, openly
professing the reformed faith.

The castle is now converted into a
magazine for military stores ; but the
interior of the building is well pre-
served and worth exploring, and the
chapel is -particularly interesting.
Strangers are readily conducted over
other parts of it, and (independently of
the associations connected with the
btdlfiBg) will find much to interest
then in it. There is the potence, a
bean, black with age, extended across
one of the vaults, to which the con-
denuMd were formerly hung. The
oMttU is also shown, whose only en-
traoen was by a trap-door in the floor
abora There is a small spiral stair-
case ef three steps; the prisoner found
no^Rirth step, and was precipitated to
a depth of 80 feet The dungeon of
Bonnivard is air^ and spacious, con-
sisting of two aisles, almost like the
crypt of a church; its floor and one
side are formed by Uie Uvin^ rock«
and it is lighted by several windows,
throusli which the sun's light passes
by renection from the surmce of the

lake up to the roof, transmitting partly
also the blue colour of the waters.
Formerly it was subdivided into smidl
cells by partition walls between the
pillars. Byron inscribed his name on
one of the pillars, and his example
has been followed by many others, as
Dickens, &c., but it is far more last-
ingly associated with the spot.

*' Lake Leman lies by C9iiUon*s walls ;
A thousand feet in depth below
Its massy waters meet and flow ;
Thus mncii the fathom-line was sent
From Chillon's snow>white battlement (? ?)
Which round about the wave enthrals ;
A double dungeon wall and wave
Have made — and like a living grave
Below the aurlkce of the lake
The dark vault lies wherein we lay ;
We heard it ripple night and day.
In Chillon's dungeons deep and old
There are seven columns massy and K^'ey,
Dim with a dull, imprison'd ray,
A sunbeam which hath lost its way,
And through the crevice and the cleft
Of the thick wall is faUen and left.
Creeping o'er the floor so damp,
Like a marsh's meteor lamp.'*

It is by this castle that Kousseau
has fixed the catastrophe of his He-
loise, in the rescue of one of her chil-
dren by Julie from the water; the
shock of which, and the illness pro-
duced by the immersion, is the cause
of her death.

Between Chillon and Yilleneuve,
10 minutes* walk from either, and a
little above the lake, stands the Hotel
Byron, a large and well-managed hotel
and pension, table-d^hote liberal, and
e^eat cleanliness and civility; rooms
lofty^ and airy. Hotel prices for
passing travellers: charge for pension,
7i fr. a day in summer, 5^ fr. in win-
ter. This is the best stopping-place
at the E. end of the lake. There are
many delightful walks and rides in
the neighbourhood.

The road to the hotel, from the
Villeneuve Stat., crosses the rly.
by a bridge, alongside which the
rivulet Tini^re is conveyed in an
aqueduct. The thickness of the delta
formed by this little stream, through
which the rly. passes in a cutting,
is cited as a proof of the antiquity of
man. Not only has the entire delta,
been deposited by that rivulet, but it
has also been equably deposited, as

186 ROUTE 55. — VILLEKEUVE. 56. — VILLENEUVE TO SI05«. Sect. L

may be seen by the regularity exhi-
bited in the rly. section.

Villeneuve Stat. (^Inns: H. du Port,
on the lake, clean, and low charts;
H. Victoria, at the stat.) is an ancient
walled town of 1480 Inhab. (PennUucus
of the Bomans), situated at the £. ex-
tremity of the lake, where the road
quits its borders to enter the yalley of
the Rhone.

About s mile from YUleneuTe lies
a small island, one of three in the
lake: it is thus mentioned by Byron
in the ' Prisoner of Chillon:' —

*' And then there vn» a little isle.
Which in my very face did smile.

The only one in view ;
A small green isle, it seem'd no more.
Scarce broader than my dunfleon-floor;
But in it there were three tail trees,
And o'er it blew the monntain-breeze.
And by it there were waters flowing,
And on it there were young flowery growing.

Of gentle breath and hue.**

The valley of the Bhone opens
with soen^y of great grandeur, the
mountains around being varied and
highly picturesque. The river flows
through a flat alluvial deposit, formed
by its own deposit, but drainage and
other improvements have redeemed it
from the state of a barren and unwhole-
some morass. The encroachments of
the land upon the lake, even within
the period of historical record, have
been very great. Port Valais, Portus
Yalesise of the Bomans, in their time
stood on the margin of the lake, but
is now more than a mile and a half
inland; the intervening tract has been
gained since. The Bhone itself rushes
along, in summer burdened with mud,
very unlike the torrent of azure and
crystal which bursts out of the lake at
Geneva. Upon this plain, at the mouth
of the valley of the Khone, Divico, the
first Helvetum chief mentioned in his-
tory, defeated, b.c. 107 (the 646th year
of Bome), the Boman forces under
Lucius Cassius, slaying their general
and compelling his army to pass under
the yoke.

Tne top of the mountain above
Tvome was thrown down by an
earthquake, 1584. A wine of some
reputation in Switzerland now grows
on the slope.

It is worth while to go out at
night and see the process of catching
trout in the torrents, affluents of the
Bhone, by means of a lantern and
knife. The fisherman enters the
water up to his middle, i^imished with
an oval lantern, water-tight, and
havin? a long tube projecting from its
top, which serves both as a handle and
to convey air to the flame. This he
plunges into the water ; and when tlie
fish, attracted hj the light, approach,
he slowly raises it towards the surfiiice,
until the trout, which follow, come
within reach, when he deals them a
deadly blow with the knife, which
sends them dead to the bottom, to
reappear in a few minutes and be
thrown into a basket which the man
carries behind him. In this way a con-
siderable number of fish are caught.

BOUTE 56.

VILLENEUVE TO SIGN, BY MARTIGKY. —

BAIL.

Miles, hrs. min.
VUlenenve to

Bex 15 0 35

St Maurice .••.*• 0 2S
MartignyStat ... 11 o 44
Sion .18 0 50

44 2 34

This rlwy. will open direct rlwy.
communication from Paris by Geneva
or Basle to the foot of the Simplon,
whenever the section from Sierre to
Brieg is completed. The rlwy, is far
preferable to the hot, monotonous,
and dusty road up the Bhone yalley.

VUleneteoe' h&s been described Bte.

00,

From Villeneuve the rlwy. goes
through the flat valley of the Bhone,
passing partly through fertile and

KOUTE 56. — BEX. SALT-MINGS.

187

well-cnltiyated fields, ovenhadowed
by fine walnnt-trees : the Tiews up
the nnnes to the 1. are fine.

Aigle Stat—iLms: Beaa Site, by
^ Stat} H. Victoria, very gooa)
HiTilWe of 1650 Inliab. (Aquileia),
miheGnnde £au. Black marble
tt<pimednearthi«. The lovely Val
^ Onnonds opens behind Aiele.
(8eeHte.43.) '^

. Olimgt. :^hoQ Stat. Near this
"Mt ottof the vaDey of the Rhone a
<Kw, 6(1 It higli, of Roman origin.
^Arf. (nronoonoed Bey) — Itwu:
ITlBioB; H. des Bains: neither very
p^: they comprise boarding-
«m oA establishments of baths,
fPPpiied with salt water and mother
^nivfrom the salt-works, which
*i» Bex to be resorted to as a
^'^'wiglJlace in summer. 4^ frs.
» my for not less than a week, 3 fr.
* ^ in winter for not less than a
JJjw, but wax-lights extra ; — Le
woc^moderate. Guides, horses, and
Jj's-i-banc for excursions among
Htemonntains may be hired here.
. Charpentier, the naturaJist, is bu-
nw in the cemetery of Bex, his tomb-
««»e a boulder.

^» Tillage of 3000 Inhab., situ-

«w on the high road to the Simplon,

i>aieflj remarkable for its 8ait Mines

^Sait Works, Salt has been ob-

J*«ifrom brine-springs here since

"*""ydle of the 16th century. For

^m time they belonged to a mer*

jJJ fittnily of Augsburg named

jJH but tlwy are now the property

?J* government of the canton.

f^to 1823 the brine-springs alone

r?W the salt, and they were gra-

"ttflf fcOing, when M. Charpentier

||9>^ the plan of driving shafts

|*|pBerie8 into the mountain in

J*^ of rock-salt. The result was

yjwery of a large and rich vein

2^«»«ineral, which has been traced

2* *«tance of 4000 ft. and for a

W'ftf 600 ft., varying in thickness

^2 ft to 50 ft.; and the annual

JJWnoe of salt is now augmented to

%m or 30,000 quintals. Strangers

''^ijmg at Bex commonly pay a visit

0 the mines, which are situated about

Bi. off in the valley of La Gryonne.

A carriage-road leads through beau-
tiful scenery to Devins, where are
the boiling-nouses and evaporating-
sheds. Hence you ascend on foot to
the /Sbft-mtne, which you enter with
a guide. The salt is obtained either
from the brine-springy, six or seven
of which, of various degrees of
strength, burst forth in dififerent parts
of the interior of the mountain, or
from the rock-salt, which, after being
extracted by the help of gunpowder,
is broken mto pieces, thrown into
large reservoirs, called dessaloirs, cut
in the anhydrite rock (sulphate of
lime without water) in the interior of
the mountain, and there dissolved in
water. Each reservoir is usually filled
with water 3 times. The 2 first solu-
tions (lessivages) famish a liquor with
25 or 26 per cent, of salt; the 3rd is
much weaker, having only 5 or 6 per
cent. The brine, either from the
sources or from these reservoirs, con-
taining above 20 per cent, of salt, is
conveyed in pipes made of fir-wood
at once to the ooiling-house (maison
de cuite); that which is less strong
must be subjected to the process ot
graduation in the lone buildings or
sheds, open at the sides, which are
passed at Bexvieux and Devins, be-
tween Bex and the mines. These
evaporating-houses, or maisons de gra*
duatioffi, are filled up to the roof with
stacks of fagots of thorn-wood, over
which the salt water, after beine
raised to the roof by pumps, is allowed
to trickle drop by drop. The sepa-
ration of the water in passing through
colanders, and its exposure to tne
atmosphere as it falls, produce rapid
evaporation of the watery j^articles,
whue the eypsum dissolved m it ad-
heres to the twigs, and crystallizes
around them. The water is thus made
to ascend and descend several times;
it becomes stronger each time, and at
length is brought to the condition of
saturated brine, fit for boiling in the
salt-pans. It will easily be perceived
how much fuel is thus spared by not
subjecting the weak solution to the
fire at first.

The principal mines are those called
DiA Fondement BudlhtJBouilM; the latter

188

ROUTE 56.— BEX. BRIDGE OF ST. MAURICE.

Sect. I.

contains a gallery driven horizontally
into the mountain for 6636 ft, 7^ ft.
high and 5 ft. wide. At 400 ft. from its
entrance is the round reservoir, 80 ft. in
diameter and 10 ft. deep, excavated in
the rock, without any support to its
roof. In it the weak water is col-
lected, which requires to undergo the
process of graduation. A littk far-
ther on is another irregular reservoir,
7933 ft in extent, supported by pillars,
and destined to hold the stronger
brine fit for the salt-pans without un-
dergoing any intermediate process.

Many beautiful minerals are ob-
tained from the salt-mines of Bex —
such as very clear crystals of selenite,
muriacite, anhydrite, &c.

It occupies { a day to visit the salt-
mines. The neighbourhood of Bex
abounds in pensions and little moun-
tain InnSf where fine scenery, pure air,
and tolerable living are obtained at a
very cheap rate. That of •Mont-
chalet, IJ m. above the town, on the
way to the salt-works, of Madame
Bernard above Frenieres, the Chalet
Amiguet at Chesieres, the house of
Madame Bosen at Ollon, besides those
hereafter noticed, all deserve to be
mentioned.

[Many interesting expeditions may
be made from Bex. One of these, by
the Col de la Croix to les lies, at the
head of the Val des Ormonds, passes
by Grion, where there is a rustic Inn,
and the Chalet de Villard, a pension,
recommended for its beautiful position
and good accommodation, not, how-
ever, equal to that at the Hotel des
Diablerets. (See Rte. 43.) Another
interesting excursion is to the Col de
Cheville, at the foot of the Diablerets.
(Rte. 58.) Starting early from Bex
a practised mountaineer would find
an interesting excursion by ascend-
ing to the small glacier de Mar-
tinet, below the topmost perpendicular
crags of the Dent de Morcles (9513
ft.) In favourable weather a magni-
ficent view of the Alps would be
obtainedj

The Railroad, leaving Bex, ap-
proaches the Rhone, and crossing it
joins the Savoy Rly. from Bouveret
and the S. side of Lake Geneva (Rte.

57), near a spot where the valley is
almost closed by a rocky barrier of
mountains.

" Joumeyin? npwaxd by the Rhone,

That there came aown a torrent from the A\p«,
I enter'd where a key unlocks a kingdoai:
The mountains closing, and the roao, the river
Filling the narrow space." Rogers,

The Mailwai/has now to be added to
these to complete the scene presented
to the traveller at the old BHdige of Si.
Maurice, which spans .the rapid river
with one bold arcn 70 ft wide, leaning
for support on the rt side upon the
Dent ae Morcles, and on the 1. upon th«
Dent du Midi, whose bases are pushed
so far forward as barely to leave room
for the river.

The bridge, erroneously attributed
to the Romans, is not olaerclJian the
15th century, but may possibly rest
on Roman foundations. It unites the
canton Yaud with the canton Valais;
and a gate at one end, now removed,
formeny served to close the passage
up and down: a circumstance alluded
to in the lines of Rogers. Fortifica-
tions were erected by the Swiss in
1832 and 1847, above the road, to de*
fend the pass.

No one can cross the bridge of St
Maurice without being struck with
the change in the condition of the
inhabitants of the two cantons. The
neatness and industry of the Yaudois
are exchanged, within the space of a
few hundred yards, for filth and beg-
gary, equally apparent in the persons
and habitations of the Yalaisans.
Their physical condition is lament-
able ; no part of Switzerland is afflicted
to a greater extent with the maladies
of goitre and cretinism (§ 18), and the
victims of them shock the traveller's
sight at every step.

The Railway is carried past the old
bridge through a tunnel in the rock,
and reaches

2^ m. SL Maurice Junct Stai,, the
first Stat, of the Ligne d*Italie Rlv.,
which is to connect Geneva with the
foot of the Simplon pass by the &
side of the lake. Now open as far as
Sierre. Passengers to and from Bex
change carriages here.

N.B. — In taking rly. tickets at

Switzerland, koute 56. — ^st. maurice. abbey, salijcxche. 189

Martignj or St. Maurice for Vevay,
onless jou specify ** par Bex " you will
be sent to BouTaret, and thence, ** par
le Lac," across to Yevay by steamer.
St. MauHce^{Twi: ♦rUnion) — a
town of 1050 Inbab., occupying the site
of the Boman Agaunum, squeezed in
\>etween the mountain and the L bank
otthe fihone. It owes its present name
to ihs tradition that the Theban Le-
gion, vBiIer the command of St. Mau-
rice, sdfered martyrdom here by order
of Ifaximian, a.d. 302, because they
lefiufed to abjure Christianity.

Tlw Abheyj the oldest Christian
foQiidstion among the Alps, estab-
hsbed in the 4th century, founded in
hottonr of SL Maurice, and endowed
by Sigismond, King of Burgundy, was
for Bsay centuries one of the most
celebrated of abbeys, and the town
itself was the capital of one of the
Boigiindiaii kingooms. In the Trea^
tvy ire preserved (if not removed
lately?) an agate cameo cup of an-
tique Greek art, and a bottle or
mipoBle of Saracenic workmanship,
presented by Charlemagne; a crosier
of gold, in the shape of a spire,
the Biclies of it fill^ with figures
an inch biffh, most elaborately work-
ed ; a cnalice, given by Bertha
(^aeen of Burgundy, and several be-
tides, of a very early date. The
(Skmtii was much damaged by fire in
the 17th cent., and has been badly
Rttand, but the tower is unalterea,
and Kveral Boman inscriptions are
hoit into its walls.

Oa quitting the stat. we perceive
oil 1^ right bank of the Rhone the
Bath-hense of Laoeyt erected 1831
ofcrawarm sulphureous spring dis-
eo¥ttaiin the river bed, at the ex-
pcSMeef canton Yaud. The water is
employed in supplying medicinal
battii the healing properties of which
are irtHftuted to the quantity of azote
gas contained in the water. Upon a
jmgecting platform of rock consider-
aUr above the road, rises the Hermit-
age of Notre Dame du Sax. Lower
diown on the road is the chapel of
y^riolea, raised on the precise spot of
the Tlk«ban massacre (!), and covered
-witli TTide frescoes.

In the autumn of 1835 a torrent
of mud descended from the Dent
du Midi into the Yalais near £vi-
onaz. It cut a passaee for itself
through the forest which clothes
the side of the mountain, snapping
the stoutest trees short off like
twig^. It covered the high road
for 900 ft., interrupting the com-
munication, and overwhelmed many
fields and orchards, and some few
houses; but no lives were lost, as
the slow progress of the current
allowed every one time to remove
out of its way. On the 25th of Au-
gust a violent storm of rain had
burst upon the Dent du Midi, accom-
panied by thunder. It is supposed that
a mass of the mountain was loosened
by the rain, and in falling broke
through and carried down with it a
considerable part of a glacier. The
rain and melting ice mixing with
the fragments and with the debris
of moraines converted the whole
mass into a thick mud, which swept
slowly downwards like a lava current.
Blocks of limestone of many tons
weight, and some of them 12 ft. high,
were carried along with it. It is a re-
markable fact that the stream of mud
contained scarcely one-tenth part of
water; the fluidity of the mass was no
doubt promoted by the character of
the rocks and soil which covered the
mountain, and which consisted of a
black s^intery limestone, shale, and
loam. The wretched hamlet Evionaz
occupies the site of an old town,
Epaunum, destroyed by a similar
mud-torrent in 563.

This part of the valley has a dreary
and barren aspect, from the quantity
of bare gravel and broken rock strewed
over it, and the traces of the terrible
flood of 1852 are still very visible.

6^ m. Vemayaz Stat, Travellers
should stop here to visit the Water^
fall of the Sallenche, which descends
into the valley of the Bhone out of a
narrow ravine, apparently excavated
by its waters Clf m. walk). The
perpendicular descent of the stream
is about 280 feet, but the final leap
of the cascade not more than 120
feet. It is a fine object, both from

190

ROUTE 66. — ^MARTIGNY.

Sect. L

its volume and height, visible from
a considerable distance up and down.
It is best seen in. a sunny morning
before 12 o'clock, when the iris,
formed in the cloud of spray, hovers
over it. The neighbouring village
of Mieville sends forth an impor-
tunate crowd of beggars and self-
appointed guides to conduct travellers
from the road to the fall, a distance
of a few hundred yards.

I m. from Yemayaz Stat, we cross
another stream, the Trient, descending
from the Pass of the Tete Noire (up
which a mule-path, very interesting
for its scenery, has been made, con-
verging upon the T^te Noire route
to Chamounix, Bte. 141), and issuing
out of a singular rent in the side of
the valley. A wooden gallery has
been constructed from which travellers
can obtain a good view of the gorge,
and look down into the chasm, whose
depths are worn smooth and hollowed
out by the force of the water. Charge
for entrance 1 fr. The chasm is some-
thing like that of Pfeffers; by all
means visit it.

Mule-path from this in 4 hrs. up
the Trient valley to the Barberine
Hotel, on the way to Chamounix (Bte.
141). Splendid scenery. Hence to
Martigny is 2 m.

On the outskirts of Martigny, upon
a conunandin^ rock, rises the castle
of La Batie (irreverently likened by
the late Albert Smith to " an insol-
vent lighthouse "^ formerly a strong-
hold of the archbishops of Sion; it was
taken and burnt by George Supersax
in 1518. The deep dungeon beneath
its tall tower is only accessible by a
trapdoor in the floor of the chamoer
above. The river Dranse passes out
into the Bhone, between La Batie and

Martigny (^Inns: *Grande Maison,
good and reasonable; Cygne; La
Tour, oldest; Hotel Clerc, Eng. Ch.
service here, good). ■

Martigny (Octodurus of the , Ro-
mans) consists of two parts — ^the one
situated on the Simpion road, the
other, Bourg de Martigny, more than
a mile distant up the valley of the
Dranse. Its position on the high
road of the Simpion, at the termina-

tion of the char-road from the St
Bernard, and the mule-path from
Chamounif renders it the constant
resort of travellers. The scenery
around is grand : a flat, open val-
ley bordered by mountains of great
boldness. It is a small town of
no prepossessing appearance, 1520 ft
above the sea, placed near the
spot where the Bhone receiyes the
iJranse, a torrent by which Martigny
itself and the vilUige of Bourg qb
Martigny have been twice nearly de-
stroy^ in 1545 and in 1818. Marks
of the last inundation (Bte. 136) are
still visible on the walls of many of
the houses ; and the massiye con-
struction of the lower walls of the
post-house is designed to protect it
from the effects of similar catastrophes.
The Bridge is one of the finest spe-
cimens of the Swiss covered wooden
bridges, with the arch aboye the road-
way. The monks of St, Bernard have
their head-quarters in a convewt within
the town, irom which the members
stationed on the Great St Bernard
are relieved at intervals. The monas-
tery of the Great St Bernard is a
journey of 10 hours from hence.
(Bte. 135.) !EVom Martigny to the
SalUtnche WaUrfall^ near Vernayaz
Stat. (3 m.), see above.

[The vi^ey of Chamouni nuiy ^
reached in 7 or 8 hours by the Tete
Noire (Bte. 141), or Col de Bahne
(Bte. 142). The Forclaz and the
beautiful view from it is an easy walk.

From Martieny, or Sembranohier,
in the valley of the Dranse, an easy
and interesting excursion may be
made to the summit of the *Fierre h
Voir r8123 ft), a mountain in the
range between the y alley of the Bhone
and the Val de Bagnes, 5^ hrs. to ride
up, 3 hrs. to descend if the last 2
leagues be accomplished in sledges
(traineaux) which are kept for the pur-
pose. Two persons sit in a sleogei
a guide acts as horse and runs down
with it over the grass. It is an amusing
and perfectly safe way of making the
descent An ffotel is built near the
summit. There is a good mule-psth
all the way. The panoramio view
from the top is exoeecungly grand and

192

EOUTE 56. — ^ARDON. SION.

Sect. I.

comprehensive. Guide, 5 fr.; mule,
8 fr. It can be ascended equally well,
if not better, from Saxon les Bains,
which lies immediately at its foot.]

At Marti&iiy the Khone makes an
abrupt bend, forming nearly a right
angle. For many miles above the
town, the bottom of the valley through
which it flows is a flat swamp, ren-
dered desolate and unwholesome by
the overflowings of the Khone and its
tributaries, which, not being carried
off by a suflicient declivity in their
beds, stagnate, and exhale an in-
jurious malaria under the rays of a
burning sun, and generate gnats not
much inferior to mosquitoes. Tra-
vellers do not suffer from the malaria,
but the inhabitants of the valley are
dreadfully afflicted with goitre (§ 18),
cretinism, and ague ; and the appear-
ance of decrepitude, deformity, and
misery arrests the traveller's attention
at every step. A tolerable wine, called
Coquempin, is grown upon the hills ;
the low flats produce little except
rushes, rank grass, and alders. The
mountains which here bound the val-
ley have a bare and desolate aspect.

Saxon les Bains Stat. Pension. A
watering-place at the foot of the
Pierre a voir. Springs contain iodine
and bromine.

JRiddes Stat After crossing the
Rhone the Railroad passes the foot-
path leading to the biablerets (Rte.
58), and soon after the twin castles
of Sion appear in sight.

[Hence the Haut de Cry (9698 ft.),
on the N. side of the valley, may be as*
cended. It was the scene of a deplor-
able accident on Feb. 28th, 1864. A
Russian gentleman, M. Boissonet, and
Mr. Gosset, with 4 guides, including
Joseph Bennen, started for its ascent.
The day was most enjoyable, and the
party were in high spirits, and had
easily arrived to within 400 ft. of the
summit, when the snow-field on which
they were crossing diagonally gave
way suddenly above them, across a
belt of enormous length. The huge
avalanche hurried downward, bearing
the party with it. During the de-
scent Mr. Gosset was once over-
whelmed, then found himself again on

the surface; lastly, when the motion
ceased, after a descent of 1800 ft., he
was again buried and was fast suffo-
cating. The snow " regelated," to use
the modern term, that is to say, com-
pacted itself into ice (See Introd.y § 17)
around him. His hands and wrists
were fortunately disengaged. With
failing powers he contrived to scratch
away enough ice to admit air to
his mouth. Three guides were hap*
pily uninjured, and they saw and re-
leased him ; but M. Boissonet lay
dead on one side of him, and poor
Bennen on the other. Thus perished
Bennen, the very best of Swiss guides;
the companion of Prof. Tyndall, and of
so many other members of the Alpine
Club, and the leader in numerous
first ascents of Peaks and Passes.

Ardon Stat., at the mouth of the
Vale of the Lizerne. Here are iron-
works.

Sion Stat, (Germ. Sitten). — Inns :
Poste, good, landlord civil ; XJon
d'Or, good and reasonable. There is
a comfortable pension 2 min. walk
from Sion, kept by Madame Mus-
ton (Protestant). Sion has no less
than three extensive Castles, which

five the town a picturesque and feu-
al aspect from a distance. Those
who have time may ascend in 20 min.
to the highest of the three. Tourbillon,
the castle seen on the L in advancing
from Martigny, built 1492, and long
the bishop's residence, is now a com-
plete ruin. The castle standing on
the southern rock, called Valeria, now
serves as a Catholic seminary. It con-
tains the Old Cathedral, a mixture of
Romanesque and of Early Pointed ar<
chitecture. Among the objects worth
notice are a very perfect roodloft of
the 13th cent., a votive chapel to St
Catherine, and some old frescoes. The
present cathedral is in the town below,
and close to it is the modem Bishop's
Palace. The third castle, called Majo'
ria, from the majors, or ancient gover-
nors of the Valais, its first occupants,
was burnt in 1788 by a conflagration
which destroyed the greater part of
the town. In the Jesuits* convent is a
collection of the natural history of the
Valais.

Switzerland. eoitte 67.-— geneva to martigny. thonon. 193

La Tour de Ibrce, a prison contain-
ing the condemned cells, and the Rue
du Chateau, the place of execution,
resemhling^ the base of a tower, remind
one of the past history of Sion.

Sion contains 4200 Inhab. and is
Ubid capital of the Yalais (Germ.
'WaiDis) — one of the most miserable
«nd mekuicholy districts in northern
Emope. Jt "vras formerly a flourish-
ing cgoBtrjy as the ruins of the nu-
merois castles and the remains of
fbrmer splendour at Sion and Visp
attest; tnd in the commencement of
the 16th century Matthew Schinner,
Bishop of Sion, was a powerful prince,
whose alliance was courted by all the
sovereigns of lEurope — principally, it
is true, for the sake of procuring the
services of the Swiss mercenaries. It
is said that Sion has been besieged
and taken more than 30 times, and,
like many S^ss towns, it has been
burnt nenly down.

The Bbspital, under the care of the
Sosan de Gharite, contains many vic-
tims of epitre and cretinism.

S. ^ Sion the Tal d'Erin stretches
hr into the main-chain of the Alps
(Btes. 129, 131).
Mule-path to Bex ^Rte. 58).
The Simplon road, from Sion to
Bono lyOssola (Bte. 59).
The rly. is finished as far as
Swre (Germ. Siders). Inns: Soleil;
*Pcoaion Banr, outside the town, very
good. Good muscatel wine here.

DSigenc& to Brieg twice a day,
staxtiBg Km arrival of the trains.

OmHSma daily to Leuk Baths (Rte.
37>

TIOUTE 57.

GENEVA TO MABTIGNY, BY THONON AND
MEHjJSBXEf ALONG THE SOUTH SHOBE
OF TSE XjAXE of GENEVA.

Steamers twice a day (touching at
Belotte, Bellerive, Asni^res, Her-
mance, Thonon, Evian, on S. shore
o£ lake), in 5 hrs. to Bouveret, where

rSwitzJ}

passengers take the rly. to Martigny
and Sion. Post-road irom Geneva to
Bouveret, 37 £n^. m.

This is the original Simplon road,
but is now almost deserted, though
from iivian to Bouveret the scenery is
very grand, finer than that of the N.
shore. Persons taking this route must
remember that it lies through French
territory, and that they become sub-
ject to a visit at the custom-house and
mquiries for passports.

After quitting Geneva by the
Quartier de Bive, a fine view opens
out rt; beyond the Sal^ve rises
the Mole, and the vaUey of the
Arve is terminated by the Buet, by
Mont Blanc and its glaciers. The
shore of the lake is dotted over with
villas of the Genevese. One of these,
near the village of Colog^y, the Cam-
pagna Diodati, is interestm? as having
been the residence of Lord Byron in
1816. He wrote here the 3rd canto
of Ghilde Harold and the tragedy of
Manfred.

Beyond the village of Corsier the
Genevan territory isieft, and we enter
the ancient province of Chablais, now
annexed to France, which extends
along the lake as far as St. Gingough.
A monotonous plain is traversed in
order to reach

D&unaine. 10 m. farther is

27i(mon — (Jnns: H. de rSurope,
fair, adjoining the Terrace; Les Ba-
lances)— an ancient town of 4825 In-
hab., ori^nally capital of the Chablais.

On qmtting Thonon we pass on the
left, between the road and the lake,
Ripailley anciently an Augustine con-
vent, founded by Amedeus VIII. of
Savoy, close b^ which he passed a
portion of his hfe as a hermit, with 6
chosen companions. He abdicated,
in turn, the dukedom of Savoy, the
Panacy (into which he had been in-
stailed with the name of Felix V.),
and the bishop's see of Geneva. He
resided here after his second abdi-
cation, passing his time not in the
austere penance of an anchorite, but,
accordin|^ to the popular belief, in ease
and dissipation. Hence the French
proverb — *• Faire Bipaille.** It is,
however, probable that, even to the

194

aOOTE 5?.— ROCKS OP MEILLERIE. BOtTVEKET. Sect. I.

last, he had not abandoned the
path of ambition, and that, far from
being inactive and exclusiyelj devoted
to luxury, he was still weaving poli-
tical intrigues. The relic of the con-
▼e^nt is converted into a farmhouse, by
the side of which Amedeus YUL built
a castle.

A long bridge of 24 arches carries
the road over the Dranse, a torrent
descending from the mountains of the
Chablais, and augmented to a large
volume by the melting snows during a
small part of the year.

IThonon to Sixt, There is a char-
road up the valley of the Dranse
by some gypsum-works, after which
it passes through numerous vil-
lages to La Yernaz, 3 hrs., and
by the ruins of the Abbey of Aulph,
to Morzincy 7 hrs. from Thonon.
Ascending from thence nearly due
S. either by the Col de Joaxplane,
or the Col de Goleze, Samoens in
the Val de Sixt (Rte. 143) may
be reached through very beauti-
ful scenery in about 3} hrs. At the
Ch&lets de la Ool^ze, a little S. of the
summit (height about 5600 £ng. ft.),
refreshment and indifferent night
quarters may be found in case of need.
Tanninges(Rte. 143) may be reached
in 10 hrs. from Thonon, by St Jean
d' Aulph and Gets. A rough char-
road. Monthey on the rly. to Mar-
tigny may be reached from Morzine
either by the Col de Oonx (see Bte.
144), or by the Col de Champery, which
enters the Val d*Illiez below the village
of Ghamp^ry, Two other passes —
the Col de Chesery, from Montriond below
Morzine, and the Col d^Abondance,
reached by the £. branch of the
Dranse, lead to Morgin (an Inn with
mineral baths), and from thence in
2J hrs. to Monthey .3

Through groves of magnificent
chestnut-trees we pass Amphionf H. de
Casino, once a gay watering-place, an
old town surrounded by a ruined
wall, capital of the Fays de Gavot,
where are baths supplied by a chaly-
beate (? sulphur) spring, and reach

' Emam (Jwns: H. des Bains, good;
H. Fonbonne, near the lake and steam-
boats; H. du Nord; Poste: in all, 6

hotels, and 40 lodging-houses), a town,
of 300O Inhab., at the water-side,
much improved of late. On a height
above is the Bath-house, resorted to
for its mineral waters. Dr. C. Depraa,
resident physician, may be trusted.
He served in the (Crimea on our me-
dical staff. Steamer to Lausanne.

The Rochs of Meillerie, celebrated
by Bousseau and Byron, were, under
the orders of Napoleon, and with the
help of gunpowder, blasted to form, a
passage for the magnificent road of
the Simplon, which is here carried
partly through them, partly on a ter-
race 30 or 40 feet aoove the lake.
Previous to its construction, the little
village of MeiUerie was barely ac-
cessible, except by boats. About a
mUe off the shore, at Meillerie, the
lake attains its greatest depth, 920
Fr. ft. Here Byron was nearly lost
in a storm. Bousseau, in tne N.
Heloise, has conducted St. Preux and
Mai Wolmar also to this port for shel-
ter from a tempest On the opposite
shore is seen Clarens, and the white
wall of the castle of Chillon (Rte. 55).

St, Gingough — (/««: Poste, an enor-
mous buUding, once a convent, not
good. Mosquitoes very troublesome all
along the S. shore of the lake. The
deep ravine of the Merge here di-
vides Savoy from the Swiss terri-
tory of the V alais; travellers entering
from the Valais are subjected to
French custom - house regulations
here.

Bouveret Stat. (Bestaurant at Stat.;
Inn, La Tour) lies within the vaUey
of the Bhone, here a broad, flat,
dreary swamp.

The railway has been completed
from Bouveret to Martigny and Sion«
The same company are carrying on
the line from Bouveret t6 Geneva
along the S. shore of the lake. The
lake steamers set down passengers
for the railway station on the wharf
at Bouveret

Bouveret lies in a marsh, avoid
sleeping here. Four trains daily, in
f hr. to St Maurice. Steamer daily
to Vevay and Geneva.

Port V alais, in the days of the
Bomans, stood on the waterside ;

Switzerland.

ROUTE 58. — BEX TO 8I0N.

195

all ih^ ground between it and the
lake, 1^ m., has been produced since
tke records of history, bjr the de-
bits of the river. At Port du
Sex the rocks on the rt encroach
so ^ Hpon the Bhone as barely to
leave a passage for the road at their
base. Advantage was taken of this
pass in ancient times to construct a
ftnrt m& loopholes for arrows, and
embrasures for cannon, which effectu-
allj dosed the entrance to the Yalais,
&e only passage bein^ over its draw-
bridge and through its |;ate. The
plain is strewed with hillocks and
d^ris of limestone, the remains of a
landslip fponk the G-rammont, 7000 ft.
higii, on the 1. bank of the Bhone, a.d.
563, which thence fell down the ravine
of Evouettes, all across the valley
as far as Boche and Bennaz, bury-
ing a Soman station, so as to dam
op the Rhone and form a temporary
lake^ reaching up to the rocks of St.
Tryph<m9, which at last burst its
barrier near Port du Sex.

The canal of Stockalper, running
neariy parallel with the road, was cut
about a oentnxy ago, to drain this
portion of the valley. At Vouvry is a
good country Inn.

Vwnnaz» Above this village are
%ome most remarkable boulders.

Monthey Stat. (Inn: Croix d'Or,
clean and moderate). [Behind this
viQi^ is the Val d'Qliez, extending
towards the Dent du Midi. Mau
cabriolet (3 passengers, every morn-
ing). Boad bad. The Dent du Midi
is a good hotel, at Champery in the
uppor part. In a lateral valley open-
ing up to the W. 2 m. above Mon-
they are the baths of Margin, pension
4f fr. a day, accommodation indif-
ferent.] (See Rte. 144.)

JBvhnaz, Owing^ to an abrupt bend
in the valley, and a projecting rock
which hides the upper portion from
view, the road comes suddenly upon

St. Maurice Jtmct. Stat. (Kte. 56).
Here the' rly . from Geneva, by Lau-
sanne and v evay falls in.
Jfartigny (Rte. 56).

ROUTE 58.

BEX TO 8I0N, BT THE COL DE
CH^VILLE — DIABLEBETS.

H. M.

Bex.

Orion 2 15

Soulalez l 45

Anzeindas 1 15

Col 0 46

Derborenze l o

Bridge 0 40

St Bernard 1 30

SiOD .^ 1 40

10 60

This is a highly interesting pass,
both from the geological phenomenon
of its Berg-faU, or mountain slip, and
for the extreme picturesqueness of
its scenery; the pass is, however,
long, and from Grion to Avent
there is no inn : this is probably
the reason why the whole recion of
the Diablerets, though yielding to
few in ruggedness and in commanding
views over the Alps, has been un-
visited and neglected. [The Dia-
blerets, 10,670 ft., can be ascended
from Grion, sleeping one night at
the chellets of Anzeindas: guides at
Grion.l As the pass is long, it is
advisable to sleep at Grion, 2^ hrs.
from Bex; or, as the accommooation
there is indifferent, some will prefer
to start before daylight in a char for
that village. Bex is described in
Rte. 56. An excellent carriage-road
has been made from Bex to Grion,
ascending the heights by nunlerous
zigzags; the pedestrian will, however,
prob^ly cut off most of these by
taking the old mule-path which con-
tinually crosses the carriage-road.
Carriage from Bex to Grion 8 fr.
The pedestrian will follow the river
Aven9on for about a mile to Bevieux,
where are some salt-works: the road
then leaves the river, and, after keep-
ing rather to the N., begins to ascend
the heights on the rt. bank of the
stream; part of the road is beautifully

K 2

196

ROUTE 58. — COL DE CII^VILLE. DUBLERETS. Sect. I.

shaded by woods of fir, beech, or
walnut, and part is through yineyards
and fields. The ascent is tedious by
the road, steep and rugged by the
paths.

Orion, prettily situated on the slope
of the mountain high above the river,
is a regular Swiss village. There are
2 homely but cheap inns (Croix
Blanche, best) and a boarding-house,
where as many as 50 persons are
accommodated in the season. The
situation is healthy, goitre and cretins
unknown. Side-sad£es are to be had;
a mule to the Col 7 fr., 1 fr. bonne-
main. There is little advantage,
however, in taking a mule beyond the
Col, as it could not be used during
great part of the way from the Col to
Avent, where mules are to be found.
A ffuide charges 12 fr. to Sion, but a
pedestrian well accustomed to moun-
tains can find the way without a
guide. After leaving Orion the road
which might be traversed by a char
for the first 2 hrs., keeps high above
the river, and enters further into the
valley of the Aven9on, running nearly
due E., and passing by numerous
chalets and houses, through green
meadows surrounded by fir-trees and
overhung by precipices, through beau-
tiful pastoral scenery. The road is
tolerably level, and about 1^ hr. from
Orion crosses the stream to the 1.
bank, then goes through fine shady
woods for about 20 min., and crossing
the stream again reaches the chalets
of Satdalex, beautifully situated in a
green plain with spruce firs all round,
and tremendous precipices above the
firs. The road now keeps a little to
the L, and rapidly ascends a narrow
ravine to the cnalets of Anzeindas,
which are situated on tolerably level
ground. In one of these is a room
where it would be possible to sleep,
but the traveller must not depend on
finding food, as the pass is little used.
!From this a moderate ascent over the
green pasture under the precipices of
tke Biablerets leads to

The Col de Ckeville (6686 ft.). By
ascending the mound on the rt. of
the Col, a fine view is obtained
of the great chain of the Alps to

Monteleone, and towards the S. of
the bare peaks of the Tete de
Gros Jean and Grand Moewan. The
descent from the Col turns at first to
the rt., then to the 1., and is very steep
and rugged; there is no particular
path, but it is not easy to miss the
the way. In about 30 min. from the
Col the chalets of ChevUle, on a tole-
rably level space covered with rocky
fragments, are reached. A little Inn
was lately buUt here. Keeping along
the stream a short distance farther,
and then bearing to the rt, a very
steep descent through trees leads to
the little Lac de Derborenze, and the
chdiets bearing the same name.

The valley here is nearly filled by the
wreck of the fall of the Mont Diablerets,
a name g^ven to the spot by the
peasantry, it is said, because they
regard it as the vestibule of heU. This
mountain is composed of limestone
strata, much deranged and steeply in-
clined. The lower beds, being soft
and shaly, are disintegrated by the
infiltration of water from the vast
glaciers on the N.E. ; and, after the
supports and foundation are thus re-
moved, large masses are detached from
the mountain into the valley below,
forming eboulemens of the most tre-
mendous kind. During the last cen-
tury two catastrophes of this kind
occurred, in 1714 and 1749. By the
former, 15 human beings, 100 head of
cattle, and 55 ch&lets were buried.
Subterranean noises, produced by
the commotion in the mountain, gave
warning for several days berore-
hand, so that most of the peasants
and 'their cattle removed out of the
way. One man belonging to the
village of Avent was overwhelmed
in a ch&let on the mountain, bat
escaped being crushed to death by
two masses of rock forming an angle
over it. He managed to support me
upon a store of Sieese laid up for
the winter, and with water from a
brook which found its . way throuch
the fallen rocks. After many we^s
passed in the dark, he at length, by
creeping and scratching among the
rocks, formed a passage through which
a gleam of daylight appeared, and

SwUzerland.

SOUTE 58. — ^L£S DIABLEBET&

197

tfarongh it succeeded at length in

woiting his y^&y out, returning to his

finends after haying been lost for 3

months. At the moment of the fall,

the smrounding district shook as with

an earthquake, a thick doud of dust

rose high into the air from the friction

of it, masses of rock were hurled a

distance of 6 miles, and the current

of air produced bj it threw down trees

which were not touched hy the fall

itsel£ The inhabitants of one of the

ne^bouring villages enjoy daylight

at a certain season of the year several

minntes earlier than they did before

the event. The fall of 1749 arrested

the course of the Liseme, forming the

little lake of Derborenze.

The path keeps to the W. side of
the lake, and trayerses for more than
an hoar a wilderness of rubbish and
fallen rocks. A little care is required
to keep the track. The scene is one
of the utmost desolation; overhead
towers the ridg^ of the Diablerets,
10,670 ft. aboye the sea-leveL Three
of its five peaks have already fallen,
and the tvro v^hich remain threaten,
sooner or later, to follow. The moun-
tain is again rent with fissures, and
scarcely an hour passes in which a
slight noise is not heard or a fragment
of stone does not falL The accumu-
lated debris of the mountain is said to
cover a space of 8 miles. The tra-
veller wilf be reminded stronsly of a
C^oe in the Fyrennes. Ijie path
winos round the mountain to the rt,
and in about 35 min. from Derbo-
i^eue crosses the Liseme by a little
bridge. There is no house near the
spot; in fiEM;t there is none from Der-
borenie to Avent. After about 20
min. more of rocks and stunted firs
the path begins to rise on the 1. bank
along the precipices which border the
liseme. For uie next 2 m. the path
is a mere ledge, sometimes cut out of
the fiee of the rock, sometimes built
upf and oyerhanging sheer precipices
ox some 1200 ft. down to where the
Liseme Is roaring in the chasm below.
Though there is no danger, the path
is yeiy narrow and far more formi-
dable than that of the Gemmi. The
path noyv passes through some beau-

tiful beech-woods, still upon a steep
slope, and then reaches ^e littJe
chapel of St Bemhard, whence there
is a fine view of the ereat chain of the
Alps. Here the valley of the Liseme
is left; the path turns to the E. and
descends rapidly to the village of
Avents about 20 min. from St Bern-
hard; thence to Conthey, where is an
inn; and thence to the high road at
the bridge of the Merge, about 2^ m.
from Sion. A g^de would show a
pleasanter way through by - paths
from Avent

Route reversed. — Mules can be
taken from Sion to the Col (a good
7 hrs.), and, if necessary, on to Grion.
The pedestrian should take the dili-

Sence or a char to the bridge over the
forge or to Yetroz. He vnll see his
Eath as far as the chapel of St. Bern-
ard plainly marked on the face of
the mountain. When about 2 hrs.
beyond the chapel he must look out
for the bridfie on the 1. and cross the
Liseme. The path throu^^h the rocks
is not very clear after this, and most
travellers will be the better for a
guide. Bearing round the mountain
to the 1., he will find the Derborenze.
Crossing the bridge above it, the ascent
begins immediately behind the chftlets,
and is very steep for 15 min., then
along a little valley for 20 min., then
very steep and rugged to the Col,
tumine at last towards the rt. From
the Col the path cannot be mistaken.
Time actually occupied, exclusive of
stoppages, ascending moderately, de-
scending fEkster —

H. V.

Aidge over Morge . . . . 0 40

St. Bernhard l 40

Bridge over Llserne .... 1 46

Derborenze 1 o

C!ol de Gh^ville 1 20

Sonlalez 10

Qrlon . 1 16

Bex 1 30

10 10

There is also a path from Ardon,
on the rt bank of the Liseme, 3 or
4 m. farther from Sion; but the road
is said to be as long as that by
Conthey.

198

ROUTE 59. — ^PASSAGE OP THE SUCHiON.

Sect L

ROUTE 69.

PASSAGE OF THE 8IMFL0N.
DOMO d'OSSOLA.

SIGN TO

Fost-road: Sion to Domo d'Ossola
8} posts = 78 miles. Railway in pro-
gress from Sion to Brieg.

Pwte. Eng. m.

'SioiL
Sierre .
Tnrtman
VUp .
Brieg .
Berisal .
SimploQ ,
Isella .
Domo d'OssoU

11
1

10
9
9

9
15

9
11*

With post-horses the journey may
be accomplished easily in 1^ day,
resting Ist night at Brieg, 2nd at
Domo.

Until the Railway, Sion to Brieg, is
finished — DUigenoes daily to Domo,
and thence to Arona, whence the rly.
is open to Milan.

Sion is described in Rte. 56.

Passing opposite the opening of the
Val d'Enn or Eringerthal (see Rte.
131), through scenery rather less
monotonous than that of the valley
between Martigny and Sion, the first
town reached is

Sierre Stat. (Germ. Siders). — Inns :
Soleil (Post), good; H. Banr, just out-
side the town, better; 1100 Inhab.
Smelting furnaces here.

[A steep but romantic path leads to
the Baths of Louche, turning out of
the post-road a little way beyond the
town, before reaching the bridge.
(Rte. 37.)

Beyond Sierre, opposite H. Baur,
another valley stretcnes S. into the
main-chain of Alps, the very interest-
ing Val d'Anniviers or Einfisch ThaL
It is a journey of 3 or 4 hrs. by
Yissoye to St. Luc (Rte. 129).
; The post-road, after crossing the
Rhone, and winding for some dis-
tance among irregular hillocks, passes,
on the rt bank of the river, at the
mouth of the gorge of the DaK the

picturesque village of Leak (Rte. 37).

Pfynn (ad fines) is on the boundary
between the German language, which
prevails above this, as far as uie source
of the Rhone, and the F^rench, which
is spoken below this. The Pfinger
Waid, behind Sierre, is a strong mili-
tary position, stoutly defended against
the :^nch in 1798.

Susten {Tnn, H. de la Souste, com-
fortable hotel, one of the best on the
road).

Horses may be hired here for Zer-
matt or for Saas (Rte. 129).

Tovrtemagne (Germ. Turtman.) —
Inns : *Poste ; Soleil, fair. 15
minutes' walk behind i^e inn is a
Cascade of some repute. The volume
of water is considerable, and its height
by actual measurement is 150 ft.
Not inferior to the fall of the Sallenche
near Martisny, it is worthy of a visit
by those who ar^ amateurs of water-
fiuls: the scene is interesting on ac-
count of its entire seclusion. The
neighbourhood is overspread with
marshes and stagnant poolsi and the
road is frequently fl(K)ded by the
swollen Rhone. [The wild gorge be-
hind the town leads up to we Turt-
man Thai (Rte. 129).3

Visp or Vispach (Fr, Viege) {Inns:
Post; Soleil, better and cheap). Some
persons object to sleep at Visp, owing
to an apprehension of malaria arising
from the floods in the Rhone valley,
and at some seasons this fear is pro-
bably well founded. TrayeUers bound
for Zermatt (Rte. 127) may break
the journey at Stalden, or at St.
Nicholas.

A noor village (2410 ft. above the
sea), nnely situated at the entrance of
the Yisper-Thal, up which the Bal-
frinhom and its glaciers are to be seen.
It was once the seat of numerous noble
families, which have all disappeared,
leaving only their large houses, now
inhabited by poor people, to attest
the fact, lliere are 2 leurge churches,
the upper one finely situated. The
lower en. was formerly the ch. of the
nobles, and ultimately became the
property of the family of Blandrath,
the last of the noble families. An
earthquake, which began on July 25,

ROUTE 59. — BBDBG. THE SIMPLON.

199

185S, and lasted with diminished force
for serenl months, left only 7 houses
in Tup habitable, forcing the in-
habitutB to encamp. Nearly all the
eeilings ia the town fell, amongst
others that of the nobles' ch. Tne
Poste Lm suffered severely;' and
encks in many of the houses are
stiU to be seen. Visp was the centre
of Ihe earthquake, which was felt
over an area of 300 miles N. and S.,
250 E. and W.

"nie Gamsen and other torrents
which fidl into the upper end of the
Valab are very dangerous neigh-
bours to the yillages and cottages on
their JMinks. The bed of the river
Visp is nearly 13 ft. above a part
of the TiQage, and the Saltine is
oavly 11 ft higher than Brieg. The
Dpsenhle and poverty-stricken inha-
hitaotsarein ccmsequence obliged to
eoostrofit very consiaerable dyRes to
r^stnk them, but even these aefenoes
uv liable to destruction every 2 or 3
years.

The desolation which the torrents
^P'^ over the fields, by their debris,
^ attract the remark of every tra-
^Qer; and the evil is constantly in-
creaan|, as the beds of the torrents
nse as nst as the dykes are raised to
restrain them, till tney flow along the
^> of a colossal aqueduct or wall of
loose roekg, whicli the road ascends
iiid descends like a hilL

On the road to Brieg glimpses of
the Kesthom and the fine range of
P^in its neighbourhood are occa-
f^fi^ to be had, as the road passes
P?P«ite the narrow glens that open
into that little-visited range.
,'nie ascent of the Sinmlon ori-
P^J be^m at Glys, a village dis-
tQigQuhed by its large church and
^^^oniil-hmtae filled with skulls I--
10,00d at a rough computation. Now,
homevcr^ a d^totur of about 1 m. is
™«<fetopas8 through

-Sniy— /niw .• Poste; ♦H. d'Angle-

^ire, dean and good; H. du Sim-

J^ion. Brieg is the usual halting-plaoe

of travellers before or after crossing

the Simplon. It is a town of 1014

Inhab., situated on a sunny slope

2460 lb, above the sea, by the side

of the Saltine, and overlooking the
course of the Bhone, which here
makes a sharp bend. The most con*
spicuous buildings are, the ch&teau
of the family Stockalper, whose 4
turrets are crowned with tin cupolas,
and the JesuiU* College, There is also
an Ursulme ConoenL

[The upper valley of the Bhone
above Brieg is accessible by a good
carriage-road, passing the Bhone gla-
cier, and traversing the Pass of the
Furca, to Andermatt, on the St.
Gotthard. The routes to the Grimsel
and Gries, to the ^ggischhom and
to the Bel Alp, 4 hrs.' walk from
Brieg (bad roaia, but grand view and
good Inn), are in Bte. 28.1

For the passage of the Simplon
voituriers charge from 60 to 70 fr.
from Brieg to Dome. The distance is
about 44 £ng. m. Travellers wishing
to send luggage into Italy by the
diligence must consign it at the Post-
office on the evenmg before. The
keys must be sent tied or fastened to
the outside of each piece of luggage,
otherwise the luggage will ht de-
tained at the Italian Custom-house
at Isella. Luggage often miscarries.

On foot the custance may be short-
ened, but it will require rail 12 hrs.'
steady walking. Tne footpaths and
short cuts require a guide. N.B. In
September the diligence does not reach
the finest part of the pass till dark.

The construction of a route over
the Simplon was decided upon by Na-
poleon immediately after the battle of
Marengo, while the recoUection of his
own difficult passage of the Alps by
the Great St Bernard (at that time
one of the easiest Alpine passes) was
fresh in his memory. The plans and
surveys by which the direction of the
road %n»'detenniiied were mi»le by
M. Ceard, and a large portion of the
works was executed under the super-
intendence of that able engineer. It
was commenced on the Italian side in
1800, and on the Swiss in 1801. It
took 6 years to complete, though it
was barely passable in 180.5, and more
than 30,000 men were employed on it
at one time. To give a notion of the
colossal nature of the undertaking, it

200

ROUTE 59. — ^THE SIMPLON. BERESAL.

Sect. I.

may be mentioned that the number of
bridges, great and small, constructed
for uie passage of die road between
Brieg and Sesto, amounts to 611, in
addition to the far more yast and
costly constructions, such as terraces
of massive masonry miles in length;
of 10 gtdleries, either cut out of the
living rock or built of solid stone;
and of 20 houses of refuge to shelter
travellers, and lodge the labourers
constantly employed in taking care of
the road. Its breadth is throughout
at least 25 ft, in some places 30 ft.,
and the slope nowhere exceeds 1 in 13*.

To use me eloquent words of Sir
James Mackintosh, *Hhe Simplon may
be safely said to be the most wonder-
ful of useful works, because our canals
and docks surpass it in utility, science,
and magnitude, but they have no
grandeur to the eye. Its peculiar
character is, to be the greatest of all
those monuments that at once dazzle
the imagination by their splendour,
and are subservient to general conve-
nience.'* Excepting the Cenis, this
was the first carriage-road carried
across any of the higher passes of the
Alps. Its cost averaged about 5000/.
a mile. In England the average cost
of turnpike-roads is 1000/. per mile.
It was tne wonder of its day ; but the
triumphs of modem engineering are
^eater. The object of Napoleon in
Its formation is well marked by the
question which, on two different occa-
sions, he first asked of the engineer
sent to him to report progress — '* I«e
canon quand pourra-t-il passer au
Simplon?"

The ascent of the Simplon begins at
once from Brieg, About ^ mile above
the town the road leaves, on the rt, the
lofty covered bridge over the Saltine,
now little used, since most vehicles
make the detomr by Brieg instead of
ffoinff direct to or from Glys, whither
wis bridge conducts. The road then
makes a wide sweep, turning away
from the Glyzhom, the mountain
which bounds the valley on the rt,
towards the Breithom, on the opposite
side, approaching a Utile hill dotted
with white chapels and crowned by
a calvary. It tnen again approaches

the gorge of the Saltine, skirting the
verge of a precipice, at the bottom
of which the torrent is seen at a vast
depth, forcing its way among black
and bristling slate rocks, which seem
still shattered by the convulsion which
first gave a passage to its waters.
At the upper end of the ravine, high
above his head, the traveller may
discern the glaciers under which the
road is earned, but which he will re-
quire at least 3 eood hours to reach,
on account of tne sinuosities of the
route. Looking back, he will per-
ceive the valley of the Bhone, as fan
as Turtman, spread out as a map
at his feet; Brieg and Naters remain.
lon|^ in sight. It is a constant pull
against the collar from Brieg to the
second refuge. Here the road, car-
ried for some distance nearly on a
level, is compelled to bend round the
valley of the Ganther until it caa
cross the torrent which traverses it
by another lofty bridge, called Pont
du Ganther. The upper end of this
wild ravine is subject to avalanches
almost every winter, the snow of which
nearly fills it up, and reaches some-
times to the crown of the arch. This
bridge is left uncovered, from the fear
justly entertained by the engineers
that the terrific gusts or currents of
air which accompany the fSedl of an
avalanche might blow the arch en-
tirely away, were much resistance of
flat timber-work presented to it. The
road originally traversed a gallery cut
in the rock near this, but it has oeen
removed. After crossing the bridge
the road turns down the opposite 8i<fe,
and then ascends by a »gaug to the
third reftige, called

BSreaal^ or Penal^ an /tin, consisting
of 2 building^ connected by a roof
across the ro^ where 16 post-horses
are kept, affor^g tolerable fare and
beds. It may be reached in 2^ hours
from Brieg. '

The first gallery which the road
traverses is that of Schalbet, 95 ft.
long— 3920 ft above Gl^s. Near this
ana hence to the summit, should the
sky be clear, the traveller's attention
will be riveted by the glorious view
of the Bernese Mps^ which bound tlie

Switzerland, boute 59.— glacieb galleries, hospice.

201

Yalais and form the rt-hand wall of
the irtSej of the Rhone. The flitter-
me white peaks of the Breithom,
ATe^h-hdmery and Viescher-homer,
are magnificent objects in this scene,
whfle Mlowthem two strips are visible
of the glaciers of Aletsch, the most
extensife in the Alps.

Kfth Eefoge, called Schalbet, —
''Here a picture of desolation sar-
ronnds the traveller. The pine has
no longer the scanty pittance of soil
which it requires ror nourishment;
the bardj but beautiful Alpine flower
ceases to embellish the sterue solitude;
and the eye wanders over snow and
glacier, firaetured rock and roaring
cataract, relieved only by that stupen-
dous monument of human labour, the
Twtditaeif, winding along the edges of
preeipiees, penetrating the primeval
granite, striding over the fiirious tor-
rent, and burrowing through dark and
dripping grottoes beneath accumulated
masses of ioe and snow." — Johnson.

The portion of the road between
the fifth refnge and the summit is the
Bost dangerous of all,' at the season
when avalanches fall and tourmentes
vise, on which account it is provided
with 6 places of shelter viz. 3 gal-
leries, 2 refuges, and a hospice, within
a distance of not more than If mile.
The head of the gorge of Schalbet,
a wild recess in the flanks of the
Mcmte Leone, is filled up with glaciers,
beneath which, along the edge of a
yawning abyss, the road is necessarily
conducted. These fields of everlasting
ice, formdng the Kaltwasser glacier,
in the heat of summer feed 5 or 6
furioos torrents, the sources of the
Saltise, and in winter discharge fre-
quent avalanches into the gulf below.
To protect this portion of the road 3
galleries, eaUed, from their vicinity to
the giMaers, Glacier Galleries, partly
excavated, partly built of masonry
strongly arched, have been con-
straetecL By an ingenious contriv-
ance of the engineer, they serve in
places as bridges and aqueducts at
the same time, me torrents being con-
ducted over and beneath them ; and
the traveller is surprised to find his
carriage suddenly driven in perfect

safety underneath a considerable
waterfklL These galleries have been
recently extended far beyond their
original len^h, for greater security.
In the spring the avalanches sUde
over their roofs.

The pedestrian, ascending from
Brieg, may shorten his way to the
sunmiit by at least 5 m. by following
the old horse-track, which mounts the
gorge of the Saltine, and entirely
avoids the detour to Berisal. The
path is steep, the scenery far less
interesting, and the way is, or was a
few years ago, not easy to find, as the
old path had in some places been car-
ried away. An unpractised moun-
taineer goin^ without a g^de might
easily get himself into serious diffi-
culties.

A simple cross of wood, a few yards
above the Sixth Befuge, marks the
highest summit or culminating point of
the road, 6580 ft above the levd of the
sea. About ^ a mile beyond it stands
the New ffospice, founded by Napo-
leon for the reception of travellers,
but left unfinished, for want of funds,
until 1840. Externally it is a plain,
solid edifice, containing several very
neat bed-rooms for masters, a draw-
ing-room provided with a piano, a re-
fectory, a chapel, and about 30 beds for
travellers of the common sort. N. B.
There is neither com, nor hay, nor
stabling for horses. It is much more
comfortable than the hospice on the
Great St. Bernard, and is even warmed
with a heating apparatus. It is occu-
pied by 3 or 4 brothers of the Augus-
tine order, members of the same com-
munity as those on the Great St. Ber-
nard. Several of the celebrated dogs
of St. Bernard are kept here, but
they are rarely employed in active ser-
vice. The monks are very happy to
show the mansion to travellers, and to
lodge and entertain them. Those who
can afford it will always leave behind
them remuneration at least equivalent
to that which is paid at an inn. The
establishment is similar to that on the
Great St. Bernard, except that it is
more limited in extent and funds. (See
Rte. 135.)
From the Hospice a high and

202

BOUTE 59.^^IHPL0N. VALLEY OF OONDO.

Sect. I.

difficult pass leads to the Saas Thai.
(Rte. 122.)

A large open valley of considerable
extent^ bounded by snow-clad heights,
having the appearance of a drained
lake, occupies the summit of the
Simplon. It is de?old of picturesque
interest; all around is barrenness,
though rhododendrons and coarse
herbage grow. Below the road, on
the rt., stands a small Tower, the ori-

final Hospice before the new one was
uilt. A gradual but continued de-
scent leads past the Seventh Refuge
(ruined), in about 3 miles, to the vu-
lage of

Simphn (ItaL Sempione), Irms: H.
Fletschhorn,farthe best, decent; Foste.
Beware of attempts to detain travel-
lers on pretence that horses are want-
ing, and to prevent their resorting to
the Fletschhom, which is 100 yds.
lower down than the Poste. The
traveller should here supply himself
with a wooden sabot to save the iron
drag of his carriage, during the con-
tinual descent of 3 or 4 hours.

By a well-constructed bend, the
traveller reaches the Gallerie cTAlgaby,
the first excavation on the Italian side,
about 9 leagues from Briee and 5
from Domo d'Ossola, on the banks of
the torrent Doveria. The road dives
into this gallery, and then, by a more
gradual slope, enters the Gorge of
GondOy one of the grandest and most
savage in the Alps. It is bounded by
slate rocks, whose 'smooth vertical
sides deny support to any vegetation.
The base of these cliffs and the bed
of the stream are in places heaped up
with shattered fragments, ruins of
the mountains above ; while loosened
masses still hanging on the slope seem
to threaten the passenger below.

The Doveria is now crossed by a
wooden bridge called Ponte Alto, an
approach to which has been formed
by scarping the rock with gun-
powder. Some way farther a project-
ing buttress of rock juts out n'om the
mountain on the 1., and seems to
block up all further passage. It is
perforated by a tunnel called Gallery
of Gondo, the longest cut through solid

rock in the whole line of the Simplon,
as it measures 596 feet ; it was also
the most difficult and costly to make,
on account of the extreme hardness
of the rock. The miners were sus-
pended by ropes to the &ce of the
rock until a lodgment 'Vf as effected, to
commence the side opening, which
now serve to light the interior. Op-
posite one of them is seen the inscrip-
tion « .^re lialo, 1805. Nap, Imp.**

Close to the very mouth of this
remarkable ^llery the roaring water-
fall of the Frassinone leaps down
from the rocks, close to the road,
which is carried over it on a beauti-
ful bridge. Mr. Brockedon, an artist
of skill, as well as a traveller of ex-
perience, remarks, in his Excursions
among the Alps, that the scenery of
this portion of the Yal Doveria, in
coming from Switzerland, bursting
suddenly upon the traveller as he
issues from the gallery, ** offers per-
haps the finest assemblage of objects
to excite an emotion of the sublime,
that is to be found in the Alps." The
traveller should pause and look back
after proceeding about 40 yards. The
rocks rise on both sides as straight
as walls, attaining the summit of wild
sublimity. A number of zigzags now
conduct to abridge which was carried
away by an avalanche during the
dreadful storm which ruined a great
part of the Simplon road, on the 24th
of August, 1834. The road is stiU in
places very narrow and in bad order.

Gondo (Gunz), the last village in
the Yalais,. consists of a few miser-
able huts, grouped round a sing^ar,
tall building, 7 stories high, erected,
like the tower at Simplon, by the old
Brieg family Stockalper, in ancient
days, for the refuge of travellers.

An hour's W£uk by the side of
the torrent, which f&lls in a cascade
down the rt-hand wall of the valley,
leads to the gold-mine of Ziirich-
bergen, which, though it barely pro-
duces a few particles of the precious
metal, is still worked in the hope of
gain. The traveller enters Italy a
short while before reaching the Pied-
montese village of

Switzerland, b. 59. — entrance into italt. douo d'ossola. 203

luUa (Inn good and clean, though
BmsH), where the oastom-house and
passport office are situated.

The tempests of 1834 and 1839 fell
with tremendous violence upon this
part of the road, which they defltroyed
for a space of nearly 8 m. Every bridge
of stooe was swept away ; in some in-
stancesy even the materials of which
the hridge was built disappeared, and
the Toy place where it stood was
not to be recognised, and it was many
yean before the road was repaired.
The Gallery of Isella, a narrow arch
of rock a little below the village, was
flooded by the torrent pouring through
it, so iiig^ were the waters swollen.

Hereabouts a change comes over
the valley, from nakedness to the rich
green IblUge of the chestnut, which
shades the road, and to that of the
dark fir which clothes the summits of
the hitherto bare mountains above.
The last gallery is traversed a little
before reaching Crevola, where the
Doveria is crossed for the last time
by a fine lofty bridge of 2 arches,
nearly 90 ft. hi|^h, previous to its
flowmg into the river Toccia, or Tosa,
which here issues out of the Yal
Formazza, and the Yal Vedro termi-
nates in the Val d'Ossola. The mule-
path from the Gries and Grimsel,
passine the falls of the Tosa (Rte. 62),
joms^e Sinnplon route at Crevola

It is now that the traveller really
finds himself in a different region
and in an altered climate : the softer
hues of earth and sky, the balmy air,
the tjrellised vines, the rich juicy stalks
of the maize, the almost deafenin^chirp
of the grasshoppers or tree-cnckets,
and, at night, the equally loud croak-
ings of the frogs — the white villages,
with their tall, square bell-towers,
also white, not only scattered thickly
along the yaU«y, but perched on
every litUe jucting platform on the
hill-sides — all these proclaim the en-
trance to Italy.

D(nno cTOssola (Inns : H. d'Es-
pagne, good and clean, fair cuisine;
*H. de V ille or Ancienne Poste), an
unimportant town, 2480 Inhab., with
no interest, save that it is Italian— in

every stone. Houses with colonnades,
streets with awnings, shops teeming
with sausages, macaroni, and garlic,
lazy-looking, loitering lazzaroni in
red nightcaps, and bare, mahogany-
coloured legs, intermixed with mules,
burly priests, and females veiled with
the mantilla, fill up the picture of an
Italian town.

There is a Calvary above the town
worth a visit by those who do not
intend to see Varallo.

The Hotel Albasini, highly recom-
mended as a pension or l>oardine-
house, stands outside the town. It is
resorted to on account of the baths in
summer.

OTmubus daily to Fallanza.

The ascent from this to the Hospice
of the Simplon occupies 7 hrs.

Several very interesting Excursions
may be made from this :

a. Up the lovely VcU Jnzasca (Rte.
121), by Fie di Mulera, to Yanzone
and Macugnaga.

6. To the Yal Yegezzo (Rte. 112).

c. To the Falls of the Tosa, 26 m.
(Rte. 62).

d. To Masera ; the ravines near
the village very fine.

e. The Lake Megorzo and Fal-
lanza.

Domo d'Ossola to Lago Maggiore
and Arona is described in Rte. 111.

204

ROUTE 60. — TURTMAN TO THE iEGGISCHHORN.

Sect. I.

ROUTE 60.

TUBTMAN TO THE JEGGISCHHORN,
BY THE L0TSCH8ATTEL.

This pass may well be combined
with either of the passes leading from
the canton of Berne into the Lotsch-
thai (Rtes. 35, 38), or it may be taken
by any lover of high Alpine scenery
approaching the .^^mschhom from
Sion or Turtman. JNowhere can a
long day's journey over snow and ice
be accomplished with so little risk or
difficulty, and but few passes lead
through &;rander scenery. None of
the estskbhshed precautions for glacier
travelling should, however, be omitted.
One of the best living mountaineers
had a very narrow escape of being
lost in a concealed crevasse on the
Lotschsattel where the glacier ap-
peared absolutely unbroken. From
Kippel to the iBggischhom is a tole-
rably hard day's work; but it is said
that accommodation can be as well
obtained at the curb's of Flatten as
at the curb's of KippeL If so, the
da3r's journey across the ice will be
notably diminished, for Flatten is 1}
hr. hieher up the valley than Kip-
pel. With the exception of a small
part of the Lotschen elacier, the
route presents no difficulties. In a
very ntvourable state of the snow
the whole distance may be performed
in about 10 hrs.; but, if the snow
be soft and deep, 2 or 3 hrs. more
may be reqnirecL As well in order
to get over the ascent before the
sun nas told upon the snow, as to
secure daylight m case of bad weather
coming on upon the vast snow-fields
of the upper Aletsch glacier, it is
advisable to start very early from
KippeL About 3^ hrs. walking by a
tolerably good path up the valley
leads to the point on tne N. side of
the Lotsch glacier where it is usual
to take to the ice. The lower and

uppermost parts of the Lotschgletscher
are free from difficulty, but the middle
part is a eood deal crevassed. An
experienced ^^de has no difficulty,
however, in miding his way, and the
summit of the pass or Ldtschsattel is
reached in about 6 hrs. from Kippel.

The scenery here is extremely
p;rand. On the N. side of the Sattel
IS the range of the Gletscherhom and
Mittaghorn, neighbours of the Jung-
frau; to the S. is the still higher
group of the Aletschhom and Schien-
horn. An easy descent leads over
gently sloping snow-fields to the main
stream of the Aletsch glacier. If not
pressed for time, the traveller will do
well to push on to a point near the
centre oi the main glacierfrom whence
diverge 4 great andnearly equal glacier
highways, each about 2 m. in width,
separatmg the surrounding peaks.
S.W. is the glacier which has just
been descended; N.W. is the branch
from the Monch Sattel, between the
Jun^rau and Monch; N.E. is the
glacier coming down from the Griin-
hom-liicke, Mtween the Griinhom
and Wannehom, over which lies the
way to the ascent of the Finsteraar-
hom; finally, to the S.E. descends the
gpreat ice-stream which carries down
the united drainage of the otlier three.
These vast Allies Blanches are sym-
metrically placed so as to form a
cross, or, as one traveller has called
it, "The Flace de la Concorde of
Nature." The guides, if they know
the glacier well, will not fail to point
out a mere speck in the rocks on the
L hand in descending the main glacier ,
which marks the position of the
Faulberg Cave, where adventurous
travellers bent on ascending the
greater peaks around usually pass the
niffht. On reaching the curious Mar-
jekn See the path on its N.. bank is
followed, and a slight ascent is re-
quired before reaching the JBggisch-
hom Hotel. (See Bte. 28.)

Suxtzerkmd.

BOUTS 61.— VIESCH TO OBODO.

205

ROUTE 61.

'VIE8CH TO GROOO, IN TAL ANTIOO-
BIO, BT THE BIMNEN THAL.

There is no ^quented pass over
tlie laoge geparatmg the Valais from
Italy, tetween the Simplon (Rte. 59)
aad tlie Gries Pass (Rte. 62), a disr
tanoe of above 30 m. This portion of
the main chain is yery little known
to strangers, or even to the people
o/ the valleys on either side. It is,
however, passable in man^ directions,
though the passes, excepting only the
Albran, are known only to a few
herdsmen and chamois-hunters. The
short yalleys of Blinnen and Rappen,
which fiiU into the upper valley of the
Bhone near to Rekingen and .^meUf
are uninhabited, and uninteresting in
pobt of scenery. The only consider-
ahle valley on the S.E. side is the
Bmen ThcU^ which pours its torrent
into the Rhone a little below Laax.
Aboat 3 hrs. above the mouth of the
^rallej it divides into 2 branches : the
main branch, mounting nearly due
£•* preserves its name ; the southern
biaaeh is called the HeUigenkreutz ThaJy
froBL the hamlet of Heiligerikreutz^
where there is a chapel resorted to
by pilgrims. At the fork of the main
valley is placed the village of Binnm,
where rough, quarters for the night
may be obtained Both the branches
above mentioned are formed by the
union of smaller streiuns, each of them
leading, to a pass over the chain.
4 of these passes deserve to be men-
tioned.

a. The Albrnn Pass, the most
easterly of the 4, is also the easiest
and the most circuitous for travellers

bound ibr Crodo, though the most di-
rect for those who vidsh to reach For-
masza and the Falls of the Tosa.

By this pass there is a paved track,
TOUsable for horses, from Laax to
Crodo. The summit is a table-land,
wild and dreary in aspect. The track
to the Val Devero and Crodo doubles
back, and, having been hitherto nearly
due E., now turns to the W. of S.
From the plateau it is possible to de-
scend by a steep track, passing the
lake and valley of Lebendue, to For-
mazza (Rte. 62).

h. The most direct course firom
Binnen to the Val Devero is by the
Col della Rossa. It is said to present
no difficulties, and joins the route of
the Albrun at the cMlets of Ponte, at
the head of the VaJ Devero.

c. A more interesting, but longer
and more fatiguing path, is that by the
Krieg JJp, passing close to a remark-
able tower of rock, conspicuous from
the iEggischhom, called the Kriegalp-
stock. The valley of Heiligenkreutz
forks at the village of the same name ;
the S. branch, leading to the Krieg
Alp Pass, is followed up to the base
of the Kriegalpstock. The path is
not difficult, but is ill marked, and
might easily be missed without a
guide. From the summit there is. a
steep descent, with rocks on either
side, until the head of a gully or ra-
vine is reached, on the ri» side of which
the descent is not difficult. There is
no passage to the 1.

These 3 routes meet at the ch&lets
of Fonte, from whence tbere is a
paved mule-path down the Val De-
vero, fatiguing enough to the feet.
The scenery is very beautiful. About
half-way there was a little country Inn,
called the Osteria di Devero, where a
bed could be had; but this had been
closed in 1859, and the Editor has
not learned whether it has been
since re-opened. Before reaching
Croveoy the first village, a stream is
passed on the 1., which descends from
an upland glen, inhabited by a pe-
culiar German-speaking community.
Their village is called Agm'o, or Ager.

206

BOUTE 61.— THE BINN£NTHAL.

Sect. I-

Passing through fine woods of chesnut
and walnut, the path fUls into the
road of the Val Antigorio a little
above Crcmeggui, where poor quarters
and civil treatment are to be found.
About 2 m. farther is Crodo (see Bte.
62). It is a long day's walk to reach
Crodo from Viesch by any of these
passes. By the Albrun the distance
may be accomplished in 12 hrs.' steady
walking ; the route by the Krieg Alp
requires 13 or 14 hrs.; that by the
Col della Rossa may (it is said) be
accomplished in 2 or 3 hrs. less time.

d. To the lovers of high Alpine
scenery the most interesting pass out of
the Binnen Thai is that of the Bitter or
Boccareccu) Poss^reached from Heiligen-
kreutz by following the S.W. branch
of the valley, called the M&tti Thai.
A little above the village this again
divides into 2 short valleys, or rather
ravines, of which the one leading S.W.,
called the Giehel Thai, is followed up
a steep but not difficult ascent. When
the traveller has reached what he had
supposed to be the summit of the
pass, at the head of this valley, he
finds himself at the lower extremity
of an immense amphitheatre or cirque,
about i m. in .diameter, and sur-
rounded by nearly vertical walls of
rock, whose strata lie in horizontal
lines, like courses of masonry, to a
height of 1000 or 1200 ft. This wall
is scaled about the centre of the am-
phitheatre by a stiff scramble, and the
true summit of the Pqsso del Bocoareo-
cio (about 9500 ft. in height) is finally
attained. On advancing a short dis-
tance on the S. side, the traveller is
astonished to find himself at the sum-
mit of another amphitheatre, still
more colossal in it-s proportions.
A nearly circular space, about 3 m.
in diameter, is surrounded by the
highest peaks of this portion of the
chain — the Hillhorn, Bortelhom,
Furkebaum; and, chief of them all,
the Monte Leone. From the gaps
between these peaks 5 glaciers de-
scend, and here and there steep slopes
of snow rest against the walls of the
amphitheatre. It is by one of these
snow-slopes that the descent is accom-

plished, for the rocks are too steep
to be anywhere practicable. Several
groups of ch&lets rest in the compara-
tively level space at the Ix^ttom of the
Cirque, The chief of these, where
there is a small chapel, is called San
Giacomo ; another group, higher up,
is called the Alpe Veglia. If the tra-
veller has started in the morning from '
Viesch or Laax, he will probably find
it necessary to sleep at these chfilets ;
but, if he nas made Binnen his start-
ing point, he may push on to better
quarters, taking one of the herdsmen
as guide, unless he be already well
provided. If so disposed, he may re-
turn into Switzerland by the glacier
which descends into the amphitheatre
from the N. side of the Monte Leone,
over which it is said that the Simplon
road is reached a short way below the
Hospice, without encountering any
serious difficulty. In the opposite,
or due E. direction, there is a passage
to the Val Bondoler, a wild, unin-
habited glen, leading into the Val De-
vero, a few miles above Croveo. The
easiest course, however, is to descend
the valley through which the Che-
rasca torrent rushes down to intersect
the road of the ^mplon near to Isella.
The passes above noticed deserve
more attention than they have yet
received. The Val Devero abounds
in fine waterfalls and in picturesque
points of view. The entire range is
extremely interesting to the geologist.

Switzerland, route 62. — VASS of the obibs. tosa falls.

207

ROUTE 62.

PASS or TEB OBIE8:— OBEBrOfiSTELN
TO DQMD D'OSSOUL, BT THE YAL
rOSMAZZA (POMMAT), AND THE
TAU£ OF TH£ TOSA.

OIx!r«esteln to
Falls of Tosa (bridle) . 7i hrs.
Andermattexi „ . . li »

Fhmia(cbar) . . . 11 miles

Domo (carrj^^) ... 15 » ^

A guide is necessary over the Col
as &r as Ftnthyal, or he may be dis-
missed sf^ely when you have de-
soended from the Col f hr. Thus he
may get home the same day, and
back-hure be saTod.

It is a mole-path, not dangerous,
though it crosses a glacier, except in
bad weather, when there is much snow
on the col, but rather long and fatigu-
ing. ThetrayeUerwhofolIowsitwillbe
rewarded by scenes of much wildness
and grandeur in the Val Antigorio
and Formazza. The pass is quite
practicable for ladies, who may ride
across the glacier, which is unusually
free from creTasses.

16 hrs. walk or ride, Anndermatten^
on the Italian side of the Pass, the
best halting-place. The Baths of
Oodo are tolerably good quarters.

In crossing the Niifenen or Ories

from Brieg it is useless to go to Ober-

Grestefai. The trayeUer ascending the

Yalais can pass the Bhone by abridge

a little aboye Miinster (^Inn good), and

reach the Eginenthal in an hour. The

distance to the pass, however, is more

by 3 or 4 m. than from Ober-Ges-

teln.

* Below Ober-Gesteln (Rte. 28) a
bridge leads across the Bhone, and
the path follows the L bank as far as

the village Im Loch, where it turns
to the 1., and begins to ascend the
Fginenthalf a barren and uninterest-
ing yalley, crossing the stream of the
I^inen above a pretty cascade 80 ft.
high. A hard climb of about 2 hrs.,
first through larch-wood, then across
a sterile, stony tract, and finally over
a little plain of green meadow, dotted
with the ch&lets of Egina, brings the
traveller to the foot of the final and
most difficult ascent. Near this point
a path, striking off on the L, leads
over the pass of the Nufenen (Bte.
63) to Airolo. Here vegetation ceases,
snow appears first in patches, and at
last the glacier blocks up the termi-
nation of the yalley, and the path
makes a short cut over an elbow of it.
It takes about 20 min. to cross. The
direction of the path oyer it is marked
by 2 or S poles stuck upright in the
ice. Along the crest of the mountain
runs the frontier line separating Switz-
erland from Italy. The summit of the
pass is 8340 ft. above the sea.

In clear weather a magnificent view
presents itself from this point of the
chain of Bernese Alps. The descent
on the Italian side of the pass (as
usual among the Alps) is steeper than
on the N.; it is also more difficult.
The upper part of the Piedmontese
yalley of Formazza, or Frutval, pre-
sents four distinct stages or platforms,
separated by steep steps, or dips, from
each other. The first is called Bettel-
matt; the second Morast (morass), on
which the miserable group of chalets
called E^hrbachi (the highest winter
habitations) are situated. The third
is Auf derFruth, v^th another hamlet
of clialets, and a small chapel. Before
reaching it, the traveller &Us in with
the river Toccia, or Tosa, which rises
in the upper extremity of the valley,
and terminates in the Lago Maggiore.
Beyond the hamlet the path crosses
to the 1. bank of the stream, and,
descending the fourth steep declivity,
arrives at the

Falls of the Tosa (a poor Inn
here), the approach to which has
for some time previously been pro»
claimed by the increasing roar or the
Wftter. It is one of the most remark*

208

ROUTE 62, — ^VAL FORMAZZA.

Sect. I.

able cataracts among the Alps, less
on account of its form than for its
vast Tolume of water, in which it
is surpassed only by that of the
Schaffhausen. It does not descend in
one leap, but in a succession of steps,
formin? an uninterrupted mass of
white foam for a length of perhaps
1000 ft., while the entire perpen-
dicular descent is not much less than
500. Seen from below, it has a trian-
gular appearance; above, not more
than 80 ft. wide, and expanding gra-
dually towards the bottom. It is the
only Swiss fall combining great height
with a large body of water.

2 m. below the Falls is the Tillage
of Fruthvald, situated on the 4th pla-
teau. 2 m. farther are the villages of
Gurf (GroveUo) and Zumsteg (Al
Ponte). Peter Sillig, of Frutval, is
said to be a good guide. The inhabit-
ants of the upper part of the vaUey,
as far as Foppiano, are of German
descent, spealung that language, and,
according to tradition, descendants of
a colony from the Entlebuch. Owing
to this intermixture of languages,
almost all the villages have a German
as well as Italian name.

AndermoHen, about 25 m. from
Domo. *Inn : Bbssel (Cavallo Bianco),
clean but rough. Here is the principal
church of the vaUey.

[From the head of the Val For-
mazza there is a pass, called the Passo
di S. Giacomo, by which travellers
from Domo d'Ossola or the Simplon
to the St. Gothard may reach Airolo,
by Hospital ail* Acqua in the Val
Bedretto. A mule-track, often faintly
marked, leavest the Tosa just above
the foils, and leads in about 4 hrs. to
the poor inn at H. all' Acqua (Rte.
63). When free from clouds the view
of the Gothard range from the top
must be fine. Another track, still
less frequented, leads from Formazza
to Locarno on the Lago Maggiore, by
the Val Mageia. It takes 8 hrs.
walkin^by a mtiguing path over the
Oriner FuTca (7837 ft.) to reach Cevio
in Yal Maggia. 1 hr. farther amidst

fine scenery is Bignasco {Inn, Post),
from whence a country diligence daily
starts for Locarno (3^ hrs.).]

The lower part of the vale of the
Tosa abounds in exquisite scenery.
The Gorge of Foppiano (Germ. Unter-
Stalden), 5 m. below Andermatten, is
particularly g^and. Lower down it
expands, and displays all the softer
beauties of high cultivation, luxuriant
vegetation, and thick population.

Char-road begins.

Below the vi&age called Premia^ 3^
hrs. from Andermatten, where there
is a small Inn (AJl* Agnello), a stream
descending from the W. joins the
Tosa, and the valley changes its name
into Val Antigorio.

" The savage grandeur of the Val
Formazza, down which the river takes
its passage, and the delicious renon
through which it rolls in the vul
Antigorio, cannot be painted in too
flowing colours. In these high val-
leys, fuUy exposed to the power of
the summer sun, there is truly a
'blending of all beauties.' The vine,
the fig, and the broad-leafed diest-
nut, and other proofs of the luxuri-
ance of the soil of Italy, present
themselves everywhere to the eye,
intermixed with the grey blocks rest-
ing on the flanks and at the feet of
the high granite ridge, out of whose
recesses you have not as yet escaped.
Instead of the weather-stained and
simple habitation of the hardy Val-
laisan, sheltered by the black belt of
forest, upon which alone I had glanced
yesterday, I now saw, on the southern
declivity of the same range, the sub-
stantial Italian structure, with its
regular outline, and simple yet beau-
tiral proportion, and the viUa, the
handsome church, or the stone cot-
tage, surrounded by its girdle of
vines — the vine not in its stiff and
unpicturesque Swiss orBhenish dress,
but the true vine of Italy and of
poetry, flinging its pliant and luxu-
riant branches over the rustic ve-
randa, or twining its. long g^land
from tree to tree." — Lattobe,

This charming valley is the chosen
retreat of numerous retired citizens,
such as bankers, jewellers, &c., who

Switzerland.

BOUTE 63. — PASS OF THE NUFEMEN.

209

have bnilt themselves nllae in it

The mica-slate rocks oocurring near

Premia and San Hichele are stuck as

Ml of red garnets as a pudding is with

plums. There are several timber-slides

for bringing down trees from the high

forests. The trees are floated down the

To8a» snd thus conveyed to Milan.

An ezceUeat carriage-road, finely

d^ineered (viaduct), has been carried

up to I^^oDkia from Domo d'Ossola,

4^ hrs. good walking.

[For passes between the Yal An-
tigoiio and Yiesch in the Yalais see
Rte.61.]

At Cndo (Germ. Crot) {Inn^ Leone
d'Oro) is the Italian Custom-house. 2
m. bdow Crodo, 2J hrs.' walk below
Prama, are the BcAhs of Crodo, a
huge and well-furnished house, opened
1848 : charge en pension 5 frs. a-day,
hstlis extra. The establishment is
not very well managed, and passing
travell^ are charged unreasonably.
The waters contain iron. A spring
rises in the gardens. Near this are
gold-mines. Carriages and horses
maybe hired here.

£elow Crodo the carriage - road
crosses the river twice before it reaches
Sen Marco, and then enters the Sim-
pkM road^ at the lofty and beautiful
bridge of Crevola, near the Ceme-
tery, at the junction of the Yedro
with the Tosa. (Bte. 59.)

3 B. farther on lies Ihmo cTOssola,
(Bte. 59.)

ROUTE 63.

PASS OP THE NOPENEN (NOVENA), PROM
OBERaESTELN TO AIBOLO.

9 hours B 26 Eng. m. This is
neither a difficult nor a very fine
pass. The way is tolerably clear, and
Dy travellers aocostomed to moun-
tains might in fine weather be found
without a gniide. It is a horsepath,
ascending the vale of Eginen, as in
Rte. 62, but, before reaching the Gries
Glacier, turns to the L, and crosses
the ridge of the

Niifenen, 8022 ft. above the sea-
level. Unlike the summit of the
Gries, which is covered with a glacier,
this pass has grass on its very top,
whicn conmiands a fine view of the
S. side of the Bernese Oberland
mountains. The summit is a ridge,
requiring 20 min. to cross, the highest
part being on the Yalaisan side.
The path across is marked by poles.
There is at times a good deal of snow
on the other side. The path descends
into the Yal Bedretto, in places
faintly marked, and scarcely oistin-
guishable from tracks of cattle. On
the S. slope of the pass one of the
branches of the river Ticino takes its
rise. The path descends along its 1.
bank to the

Hospice aU* Acqua, a house of refuge
to accommodate travellers, 5000 ft.
above the sea, dirty and fiill of
fleas, 3 hrs. walk from Airolo. The
Hospitalier is a g^ood guide. A path
ascending rapidly through the rough
pine forest, crosses the valley from
this S. into the Yal Eormazza to the
Falls of the Tosa, 3^ hrs.' walk (see
Bte. 62). The Yal Bedretto, from its
elevation, has but an inhospitable cli-
mate; long winters, and frosts not

210

BO0TE 65. — ^ZUBICH TO BOBSGHACH.

Sect. I.

nncommonly in the height of summer,
morning and eyening. It is clothed
with forests and pastures, from which
its 612 inhabitants deriye support in
summer; while in winter the males
migrate to Italy, to seek employment
as servants. It is flanked on either
side with glaciers, and is dreadfully
exposed to avalanches (( 17). The
masses of fallen snow often remain
unmelted on the margin of the Ticino
till the end of September. At

Bedretto (small Inn), the principal
hamlet, the church-tower, wliich has
been once swept away, along with the
parsonaffe, is now protected by an
angular Duttress, directed toward the
side from which the avalanches fall,
so as to break and turn them away.
The valley leading to Airolo is very
pleasing. In the lower part of the
valley a scanty crop of rye is grown,

AirolOy in Bte. 34.

Route reversed, — From Airolo the
path, which is good and partly paved,
descends to the river, crosses it, and
ascending to Villa recrosses the river,
and chieny through fields reaches

Bedretto. Here the river is crossed and
recrossed to (1 hr. 20 min.) Hospice all*
Acqua. Thence to the highest chalets
1 hr., and to the commencement of
the summit 1 hr. 20 min. ; 2 hrs. 40
min. to the top of the pass. A descent
of 30 min. leads into we Gries path ;
3 hrs. Munster (Bte. 28). Total,
8 hrs. 50 min.

ROUTE 66.

ZiiBICH TO BOBSGHACH, BY ST. GALL
—RAILWAY.

Zltridi to Eng. m.

Winterthur (Rte. 9) . . l«i

Wyl lU

Flawyl 27

St Gall 36

Rorschach 45

3 Trains daily in about 4| hrs. This
rly. is continued to Coire (Bte. 66).
The possible continuation of this
line over the Lukmanier pass seems
the most feasible of all projects for
crossing the Alps by rly.

Zurich in 1 hr. to

Winterihur Junct, Stat,, in Rte. 9.

The rly. hereleaves the Romanshom
line and follows the valley of the Toss
as far as Elgg 7 m. ; 6 m. farther it
crosses the Murg and reaches

Wyl Stat,, a town of 2000 Inhab.
with several convents {Inn: Schdn-
thal); cotton-spinning; view of Sentis;
it then crosses the Thur river on a
lattice bridge 448 ft. long, and beyond
Flawyl Stat. {Inn: RossU) the valley
of the Glatt by a lattice bridge of 8
arches 380 fL long and 120 ft. high.

Bru&;gen Stat. 8 m. from St. Gall
the vaUey of the Sitter is crossed by a
wrought iron lattice Bridge, of clever
device, 560 ft. long, in 4 an^es or spans.
It is raised upon cast-iron piers 200 ft.
above the river, resting on stone foun-
dations.

1. Lower down the stream is the
Krdtzeren Briicke, of 2 fine stone
arches, erected 1810.

A long Tunnel is then passed through
close to

St Gall Stat, (St. Gallen). — inns
*Hecht (Brochet, Zehnder's), excel-
lent, eood cuisine; laon, very good,
and thoroughly comfortable ; Bosdi
(Cheval). A convenient place to
make excursions from.

St Gall, capital of the canton, is
situated in an elevated valley on the
banks of a small stream called the
Steinach, 208 1 ft. above the sea. Pop.
15,000 (4900 Boman Catholics). It is
Pl^e of the principal seats of maau-

Switzerland.

BODTB 65. — ST. GALL.

211

fiustoringiiidiistryiiiSwitzeriaiicL The

mannfiictnre of Swin muaims is the

most floarisliiAg', but the spiimiiig

of eotton is also rapidly increasiBg.

There are extensiTe oleacdkeries in the

towTL, and the neighbouring slopes are

white with webs. The embroidered

curtaiBs and ladies' collars are very

preUy tad cheap here.

The aadque toaila, however, which
partly surround the town, and ike
oitdi, Dov oonverted into |;ardens,
i^call to mod the ancient history of
St. Gsfl. In the early part of the
7th cent St. Gallus, an Irish monk,
left his convent in the island of lona,
one of the Hebrides, and, after tra-
velHog over a large part of Europe
converting the heathens, finally set-
tled OD mo banks of the Steinach,
thea a wfldemess buried in primsBval
woods, of which bears and wolves
seemed the rightM tenants rather
than meo. He taught the vnld peo-
ple around the arts of agriculture, as
wieQ as the doctrines of true rdigion*
The humble cell which the Sa>tch
BiUsiooary had founded became the
nneleas of civilization : and fifty years
ifter his death, when the fune of his
nnctity, and the miracles reported to
Ittve been wrought at his tomb, drew
thonsands of pi^prims to the spot, it
ivas replaced by a more magnificent
edifice, founded under the auspices of
Pepin TH^ristaL This abbey was
one of the oldest ecclesiastical esta-
blishments in Grermany. It became
the asylum of learning during the
dark ages, and was the most cele-
brated school in Europe between the
8th and 10th centuries. Here the
woiks of the authors of Bome and
Greece were not only read but copied;
and we owe to the labour of these ob-
scure monks many of the most valu-
able classical authors, which have been
preserved to modem times in MSS.,
treasured up in the Abbey of St. Gall ;
among them Quintilian, Silius Itali-
cus, Amznian l^rcellinus, and part of
Cicero, may be mentioned. About
the be^nning of the 13th century St
GraH lost its reputation for learning,
as its abbots ezcnanged a love of piety
and knowledge for worldly ambition,

and the thirst for political influence
and territorial rule. The desire of
security, in those insecure times, first
induced the abbot to surround his
convent and the adjoining building
with a wall and ditch, with 13 towers
at intervals. This took place at the
end of the 10th century, and from
that time may be dated the founda-
tion of the town. He and his 100
monks of the Benedictine order
thought it no disgrace to sally forth,
swora in hand and helmet on head,
backed by their 200 serfe, in the hour
of danger, when the convent was
threatened by ungodly laymen. The
donations of pious pilgrims from all
parts of Europe soon augmented enor-
mously the revenues of the abbots.
They became the most considerable
territorial sovereigns in N. Switzer-
land; their influence was increased
by their elevation to the rank of
princes of the empire ; they were en-
gaged in constant wars with their
neighbours, and were latterly entan-
gled in perpetual feuds with their sub-
jects at nome. These bold bui^hers,
who, in the first instance, owed their
existence and prosperity to the con-
vent^ became, in the end, restive un-
der its rule. In the beginning of the
15th century the land of Appenxell
threw off the yoke of the abbot ; at
the Beformation St. GaJl itself became
independent of him; and in 1712 the
ecclesiastical prince was obliged to
place the convent under the protec-
tion of those very citisens whose an-
cestors had been his serfs.

The French Revolution caused the
secularization of the abbey, and the
sequestration of its revenues followed
in 1805. The last abbot, Faneratius
Forster, died in 1829, a pensioner on
the bounty of others, in the convent
of Muri

The Abbey Ckuroh (cathedral since
184t>), of Italian architecture, was
completely rebuilt 1766; it possesses,
in tne Treasury or Sacristy, some
antique relics — the bell of the original
hermitage, ch. plate, &c. Fine Organ.

The vast buildings of the Monastery
date from the 17th and 18th centuries;
and the part of it which formed

212

ROUTE 66. — ^ROBSCHACH TO GOIRE.

Sect. !•

the abbot's Palace (Die PfdU) now
serres as a R. Gatn. Seminary for
teachers. The C<moent Library (Stifte
Bibliothek) still contains many cario-
sities, such as numerous Latin classics,
MSS. of the 10th and 11th centuries,
Greek New Testament of the 10th
century, Psalms of the 9th century,
various ancient MSS. either from Ire-
land or transcribed by Irish monks;
the Gospels of Sinlaam, bound in
ivory tablets; Palimpsests, 4th cen-
tury ; also a MS. of the Niebelungen
Lied, and many letters relating to the
Reformation.

St. Laurent is a 12th cent, ch., rest
1858. St. Mangen is said to be a ch.
of 9th cent. (?)

The finest edifices are the Cantona
School or Public Seminary y on the road
to Rorschach, containing the Museum
and Town Library, ana the Orphan
House, outside the town, to the K.W.

At the Casino Club will be found an
excellent readtng-room.

Post-office near the Riy. Stat.

The Freudenberg, the neighbouring
mountain on the S.E. of the town, com-
mands from its summit, about 2 m. off,
a fine panorama, inclu<Ung the lake of
Constance and the mountains of St
Gall and Appenzell, with the Sentis
at their heaoL A carriage-road leads
up to the inn on the top. .

Excursion. — ^From St Gall to Tro-
gen, Gais, AppenzeU, Weissbad, and
back to St Gall—a delightful day's
drive (Rte. 68).

Borsohachf on the Lake of Constance
(Boden See, Rte. 8) (Inns: Hirsch,
good and moderate; Post (Krone);
Seehof; Gruner Baum. > — This is the
chief station for the lake steamers,
and dose to the wharf is the im-
portant Terminus of the two rly. lines
to Ziirich and Coire. Priedrichshafen,
the terminus of the rly. fi^m Stuttg^rd
and Ulm, and lindau, the stat for
Augsburg and Munich, on the oppo-
site shore of the lake, are each of tnem
reached in about 1^ hr. The steamers
also touch at the small town of
Breeenz, in the Austrian province
of uie Vorarlberg, by whicn is the
most direct way to the T3rrol. This
little lake-port and town of 2650 In-

hab. is the principal corn-market in
Switzerland, held on Thursday. ^Hie
grain required to supfkly the 8;reater
part of the Alpine districts of N. Swit-
zerland is imported from Suabia^ in
boats, across the lake, and is deposited
temporarily in large warehouses here.
Much mudin is made at Rorschaeh.
There are extensive and convenient
Swimmmg Baths 5 min. below the
town.

On the slope, a little above the town,
is the large dilapidated building, called
Statthdlt^, or Marienberg, a palace
once of the proud abbots ^ St Qall,
now a government SchooL Its Gt)thic
cloister, and vaulted refectory widi bas-
reliefs^ deserve notice (date 1513). It
commands a fine view from its terrace.
Near it, perched on a projecting sand-
stone rock, is the desolate Castle of St.
Anne, with its square keep. IBVoni
the top of the hill, behind Rorschaeh
(1 hoiur's walk), you may obtain a
view over the whole lake, of the influx
of the Rhine, and of the town of
Br^nz.

Tne deposits of the Rhine are,
it is said, forming themselves into
shallows between IU>rschach and Lin-
dau, which may soon impede the
direct navigation of the lake between
these two places.

Railway to Coire. Rte. 66.

ROUTE 66.

BOBSCHACH TO OOIBE, BT RAGATZ AKD
THE BATHS OP PFEPFBR8. — ^RAILWAY.

£ng.m.
BoTschAch.
AltBtetten ....!•

Seimwald 26

Sewelen 39

Bagate 48

OoueTennlniu ... 64

64 Eng. m. 3 trains daily, of which
the fastest (the evening train fh>m
Rorschach) goes in 3 nrs. 20 min.

gTor information as to steamers see
tes. 8 and 65.)

Smtzeriand, boute 66. — ^altstetten. webbekberg.

213

After leanng^ Borsehach the road

skirts the foot of low hills dad with

imeyardsy beneath which the yellow-

hdhed pumpkins maybe seen hasking

mike Sim, oai soon quits the margin

of the lake to skirt the flat delta of

theBhitae. The district around the

moncthtjf the riTer abounds in marsh,

and is by no means healthy.

A disBDel has been cut for the
river into the lake. Wembwrg^ on the
hciki^bty is the seat of the P. of Hohen-
xoIfenkS^imariiigen. Fine yiew from
hispsik.

Skemdk Stat, (Inns : Brochet, Post;
— Kraiey-a village of 1370 Inhab.,
on thelbank of the Rhine, about 4 m.
abofe its onbouchnre, situated under
vine-dsd hills. There are several
castiet on the neighbouring heights.

St Hargarethen Stat., a pretty vil-
lage comptetely embowered m a grove
of wsfanit and fruit trees, is situated
nesr the Axatrian ferry ^ oner the JRhine,
wJiich must be crossed in going to
Bregenz, or Ldndau (see ffandbook
for South Oermany) ; but it is not
fsssable after dark. The railroad
turns due S. up the valley of the
Bhine, through a highly cultivated
coontrr rich in grain, especially maize,
and abounding- in orchards. The
Bhine here is a wide, shallow, muddy,
and unsteady stream, constantly
ftlmnpng its channel and overflowing
its banks: it is not navigated except
by wood-rafts, which .float down it.

AHrietien Stat.—ilnna: Post; Rabe)
—a town of 7293 Inhab., in a fruitful
nei^ibourhood, and in a lovely spot
conuDsnding views of the ^ps of
Vorariberg. There is a road from this
over the hSil of Stoss to Appenzell, by
6ai% 2 leagues (Bte. 68), and St. Gall,
3 lo^es. Those travelling on foot
or on horseback should take the old
road over the Stoss. The view from
it over ih& Alps of the Vorarlberg is
eelelnvted. Another road, over the
BuppeDf leads in 3 hrs, to St. Gall,
by %ogen (Rte. 68). The female in-
habitants of the lower Bheinihal are
all diligently occupied in tambouring
mnsliii; much of which goes to
Bnglaiod.

Oberied Stat, (/tm ; H. da Cheval)

to Feldkirch in Austria beyond the
Rhine is li post.

Sennwald, a village at the foot of
the Kamor (5730 fi high, 3 hours'
walk, commanding a fine view over
the Alps of Appenzell, Vorarlberg,
the Grisons); an ai^oinihe peak, a
few feet higher, is called me Bohen-
kasien,

Down to the 17 th century, the dis-
trict which we now traverse belonged
to the powerful barons of Hoben
Sax, many of whose castles, reduced
to ruins by the Appenzellers, may
still be discerned upon the heights
on the W. of the Rhme valley. One
of this fiunily, a brave and noble
soldier, and a Protestant, escaped with
difficulty from the massacre of St.
Bartholomew at Paris, and on his
return home was murdered by his
nephew. After this foul deed, it is
the popular belief that the blessing of
God was withdrawn from the race: it
is certain they never prospered. In
1616 their vast domains were sold to
Zurich, and the family became ex-
tinct soon after. The body of the
murdered man is stiU preserved in a
perfect condition, in a coffin with a
glass lid, dried like a mummv, under
the church-tower of Sennwalo. This
circumstance, and the story connected
vrith it, have given to the remains a
reputation for sanctity ; so that, though
a Protestant, the Catholics have stolen
some of the limbs as relics, and once
actually carried off the body across
the Rhine; it was, however, speedily
reclaimed.

ffaty Stat. Post-road across the
Rhine to Peldkirch and Tyrol: rt. to /
Wildhaus and Toggenburg (Rte. 71).
Diligence daily.

Buchs Stat. {Inn : Sonne). Above
it rises

Schhss Werdenberg, seat of a noble
family of that name, who placed an
important part in early Swiss his-
tory. It is a conspicuous white build-
ing, in good preservation, above the
town. A cross road runs hence
through ihe vale of Toggenburg to
Wyl (Rte. 71).

Sewelen (/na; Traube). Rt. on the
height the ruined castle Wartau ; 1«

214

ROUTE ^^. — RAQAT2. BATHS Of PfEFFEllS.

Secfc.1.

beyond the Rhine, lies Vaduz, capital
of the principality of Lichtenstein
(see Bte. 67); and at the entrance of
the Lnziensteig pass Schloss Gutburg.
In the background rises the grey he^
of the Falkniss with its chaplet of
snow: the whole landscape is splendid
and full of variety.

Sargans Junct, Stat. The town of
Sargcms is passed a little on the rt.
Here the road and the rl^. from Wal-
lenstadt and Ziirich fall in. (See Bte.
14.)

Ragatz Stat, (^Inns: Hof Bagatz, ori-
ginally the summer residence of the
abbots, and now a bathing establish-
ment ; usually overcrowded ; not re-
commended for passing travellers.
Eng, Ch. service. Hotel de la Tamina,
improved, a comfortable family hotel.
Both houses are supplied with water
from the hot springs of Pfeflfers, con-
veyed hither in wooden pipes 12,500
feet long. Hotel kept by Anderes,
clean and quiet. Schweitzer Hof.
Bagatz is a village of 600 Inhab., situ-
ated at the mouth of the gorge through
which the torrent Tamina issues out
to join the Bhine. It thrives from its
central position at the junction of the
great roads from Zurich, St. G^ll,
Feldkirch, Coire, and Milan, and
from its vicinity to the mineral springs
of Ffbfifers, which cause it to be much
resorted to as a watering-place. There
is an EngHsh chapel here. The philo-
sopher ^helHng (died 1854) is buried
in the Bom, Cath. Cemetery, His mo-
nument was erected by the King of
Bavaria.

[No one should omit to visit the
Old Baths op Ppeffers (properly
Ffaffers), situated a little way up
the vale of the Tamina, one of the most
extraordinary fspots in Switzerland, ac-
cessible by a road cut in the rocks of
the gorge. The distance, not being
more than 2^ m., is performed in J
of an hour, and it takes only 20
minutes to return in a char. Small
carriages wait at the station, and
charge 1^ fr. for each person, to or
from the baths. Those who are able

should walk ; it is not possible to
miss the way; yoti may reach the
baths within an hour on foot. It is
a delightful walk, the scenery very
rottiantic; the torrent fotmiiig water-
falls at every step, and floating down
the logs of wood. Much of the in-
terest and original singularity of the
spot, however, is destroyed by the
improvement of the access to it.

The Old Baths are situated in two
large piles of building connected
together by a chapel. Tney are built
on a narrow ledge of rock, a few feet
above the roarmg Tamina, and so
deeply sunken between the rocks that
they may be said to be half .buried, so
that in the height of summer, the sun
appears above them only from 10 to 4

The hot springy of Pfefiers were
not known to the Bomans. There is
a story that they were discovered, by
a hunter, who, having entered into
the abyss of the Tamina, in the pur-
suit of game, remarked the column
of vapour arising from them. For
many years nothmg was done to fa-
cilitate access to them, and patients
desirous of profiting by their healing
virtues were let down to the source
from the clifBs above, by ropes, and,
in order to reap as much benefit as
possible^, were accustomed to pass a
week together, both day and night, in
them, not only eating and drinking,
but sleeping, under hot water, instead
of under blankets. The cause of the
virtue of the water is not very evi-
dent, as a- pint contains scarcely 3
grains of saline particles ; it has a
temperature of about 98^ Fahrenheit.
The patients are almost exclusively of
the lower orders ; thoSe of ihe more
opulent classes prefer living in hotels
and lodgin?-houses in the sunny vafley
of the Bhine, outside the gorge,
through which the mineral waters are
now conducted in pipes to the baths.

The situation of the old baths is
both gloomy and monotonous, hem-
med in between dripping walls of
rock, and shaded by dank foliage,
with only a narrow strip of sky over-
head, and with small space or dua-
lities for locomotion and exercise,
unless the patient will take the road

Switzerland.

ROtJTE 66. — ^BATHS OP PPEPFERS.

215

to Ragatx or scale the sides of the
valley above him. To one fresh
smred firom the upper world, its
meadows and simshme, a visit to
l^&^Sers has all the effect of being at
the\x>ttoin of a weU or a mine, except
for a few hours at midday. The at-
mosphere is kept at one regular tem-
perature of chiUiiiess by the perpetual
draught biought down by the torrent;
and&e solitary and imprisoned ray
of simsfaine which about noon, and
for an hour or two afterwards, finds
its my into these recesses, is in-
suffident to impart permanent warmth
or dieerfdlness. It is to be presumed
that few English travellers would be
disposed to make any stay here. A
passing visit of a few hours vnll
satisfy the curiosity of most persons.
No one, however, should depart vnth-
out Tinting the

Source of the hot spring,

A few yards above the old baths,
the sides of the ravine of the Tamina
i»atraet in an extraordinary manner,
ao as to approach within a few feet
of each other ; a little farther they
even dose over and cover up the
mer, which is seen issuing out of a
cavernous chasm. The springs are
reached through the bath -house,
whence a bridge of planks across
the Tamina leads to the entrance,
whidi is closed by a door. The
brid^ is prolongea into the gorge,
in liie shape of a scaffolding 6r shelf,
snaended by iron stanchions to the
Totts, and partly laid in a niche cut
out of tilie side. It has been much im-
proved of late. It is carried all along
the duism as &r as the hot spring,
and sffioords the only means of ap-
proach to it, as the sides of the rent
are vertical, and there is not an inch
of room between them and the torrent,
far the sole of a foot to rest. For-
merly the passage was along two,
sometimes one plank, improtected by
railings ; at present a platform, 4 feet
wide, ftirnished with a nand-rail, ren-
ders tKe approach to the spring easy
for tide most timid, and perfectly free
^rom. risk. Each person pays 1 fr.

for admittance. A few ^ards from
the entrance, the passage is darkened
by the overhanging rock. The sudden
chill of an atmosphere never visited by
the sun*s rays, the rushing and roaring
of the torrent, 30 or 40 feet below, the
threatening position of the rocks above,
have a grana and striking^ effect ; but
this has been dinunishea by modem
improvements, which have deprived
the visit to the gorge of even the
semblance of danger. In parts it is
almost dark, where the sides of the
ravine overlap one another, and ac-
tually meet over-head, so as to form a
natural arch. The rocks in many
places show evident marks of having
been ground away, and scooped out by
the rushing river, and by the stones
brought down with it JFor several
hundred yards the river pursues an
almost subterranean course, the roof
of the chasm being the iioor, as it
were, of the valley. In some places
the roots of the trees are seen dangling
through the crevice above your hea(^
and at one particular spot you find
yourself under the arch of the natural
oridge leading to the staircase men-
tioned farther on. Had Virgil or
Dante been aware of this spot, they
would certainly have conducted their
heroes through it to the jaws of the
infernal regions.

The shelf of planks extends 700
yards from the baths. At its ex-
tremity, at the bottom of a cavern in
the rocks, rise the springs, the tem-
perature being about 100^ Fahrenheit;
the water is received into a reservoir
nearly 15 feet deep, from which it is
conducted in pipes to the baths. The
first baths were miserable hovels,
built over the spring, and suspended,
like swallows' nests, to the face of the
rock : the only entrance to them was
by the roof, and the sick were let
down into them by ropes and pulleys.
Marks of these hovels are still to be
seen on the rocks. The springs gene-
rally cease to flow in winter, but burst
forth again in spring ; they are most
copious when the snow has fallen in
abundance, and continue till autumn,
after which their fountains are again
sealed. The water has little taste or

216

KOUTE 66. — ^RAGATZ. EXCURSIONS.

Sect. I.

smell ; it bears some resemblance, in
its mineral contents, to that of Ems,
and is used both for bathing and
drinking.

After emerging from the gorge, at
the bath-house, the traveller may as-
cend the valley above it by a well-
marked track ; ascending the steep 1.
bank, and then keeping to the L, and
desoendine a little, he will in about
half a mile cross by a natural bridge
of rock, beneath wiiich the Tamina,
out of sight and hearing from above,
forces its way into the gorge of the
hot springs. A steep path or stair^
case (Steige) formed of trunks or
roots of trees, on the rt. bank, is
then met with, ascendine which, you
reach an upper stage or the valley,
formed of gentle slopes, and covered
with verdant pasture on one side, and
with thick woods on the other. The
two sides are separated by the deep
gash and narrow gorge, along the
bottom of which the Tamina forces
its way. This is, perhaps, the best
point JOT obtaining a eeneral view of
the baths and tms smgiilar spot in
which they are sunken. On looking
over the verge of the precipice, you
perceive, at the bottom of the rarme,
at the depth of 300 feet below, the
roofs of the two large buildings, like
cotton factories in size and structure.
The upper valley, also, with its carpet
of brignt green, its woods, and the
bare £nestone cliffs which border it
on either hand, and above all, the
huge peak of the Falkniss, rising on
the opposite side of the Rhine, form
a ma^pmficent landscape.

A char-road runs from the top of the
Steige along the rt bank of the Ta-
mina, through a wood and meadows,
to

The Convent of Pfeffers, a vast edi-
fice, but not otherwise remarkable :
it was built 1665, in place of one de-
stroyed by fire. It encloses a church
in tne centre, like all the convents of
the Benedictine order. It is finely
placed on an elevated mountain-plat-
form, conmiandinff, on one side, the
valley of the Bhme, backed by the
majestic Falkniss ; on the other, open-

ing out towards the lake of Wallen-
stadt and the peaks of the Sieben
Kurfursten. Tnis Benedictine mo-
nastery, founded 713, was suppressed,
after an existence of 10 centuries, in
1838, by^a decree of the government
of the canton of St. GaU, in conse-
quence of the finances of the convent
having become involved, and at the
request of a majority of the brethren.
The Government pensioned the ab-
bot and the mouKs; agents of the
canton took possession of the convent
and all that belonged to it, and have
converted it into a lunatic asylum.

The convent once possessed a very
extensive territory; its abbots were
princes; but the French, as usual, ap-
propriated their revenues; and at the
termination of the French rule, but a
small part of their property was re-
stored to them, including the baths.
This is now appropriated to pious
works, the education of the people, &c.

Near the convent stands the ruined
castle of Wartenstem,

A pretty, but bad, char-road zig-
zagging down through woods leads
from the convent back to Hof Ra-
gatz.

The pedestrian going to Coire need
not return to Ragatz after ascending*
the Steige, but may pass the convent
and proceed to the Untere-ZoU-
Briicke; or he may proceed to Rei-
chenau by Kunkels (see below, d).

The Kalanda, or Galandaberg rthe
mountain on the rt bank of the Ta-
mina, above the old baths, which se-
parates the valley from that of the
Rhine), is sometimes ascended on ac-
count of the view from its top — ^a
5-hours* climb. Rough accommoda-
tion for the night may be obtained at
the chdlets (»lled Obem Afaiensdss^
about 2 hrs. below the summit. Many
other interesting Excursions may he
conveniently made from Hof Ragatz,
but there appear to be no good saddle-
horses.

a. To Luziensteig, a remarkable for*
tified pass, beyond the Rhine, 1^
league from Kagatz, between the
Flaschberg and the Falkniss. The

Switzerland,

ROUTE 66. — KUNKELS. MAYENFELD.

217

ascent of the Flaschberg from Luzien-
steigf is now made bj a carriage-road
reaching' in succession the yarious
forts, and the view from its top, and
down the tremendous precipice which
vcarps one side of it, is very striking.

b. To the Prdttigau and Fideris
(Bte. 98X returning hj the Schal£gg.

c. To the top of the Graue Horner^
an ascent requiring 5 hrs. — 8760 ft. —
whence yoa may see the Lake of
ConstsDce over the peaks of the
Kmf&rsten.

d. BjiheKuTikels pass to Reichenau
on tlie Spliig^n. This pass is not
very striking, but is a cnange from
the high road. There is a tolerable
char-TOttd to Vattis, and in fact a char
migfat be taken to the foot of the coL
The char-road goes past the convent,
bat the pedestrian can go by the
old baths, and ascend the Steige, the
path from which falls into the char-
road. The char-road proceeds along
the rt bank of the Tamina, past
oanj small slate*- works, to the hamlet
of Vadura. The valley is here tole-
nblj wide and fertile; soon afterwards
however it contracts and becomes
mUedinwith tremendous precipices
on each side, pines growing on them
wherever there is room. In 1 hr.
15 min. from the top of the Steige the
fiSiej turns to the rt. and opens out,
then YaUis is reached, a small village
at the entrance of the Kalfeuser Thai,
where bread and wine, and perhaps a
bed, might be procured. The path
now keeps to the 1. over green mea-
dows, the bare precipices of the Ca-
hinda orerhanging on the 1. The
nnmenns cfa&lets of Kimkels are next
readiedi and then the foot of the col,
where the L path must be taken; and
a steep ascent of 20 min. leads to the
head of the pass. There is not much
view from the col itself. Keeping
agam L, tlie path plunges into the
nvine of Foppa^ ana by a very steep
descent, afPording occasionally fine
views of 'the valley of the Khine,
Tamina is reached and then Reiche-
nau (Rte. 87). Time, fidr walking —

Ragatz. hns. min.

Steige 1 0

VKtUs 2 0

Kunkels 1 36

Col 0 50

Reichenau 1 20

Total • . . 6i 0

A French detachment crossed this
pass in 1799, drove out the Austrians,
and plundered Tamins.

e. The excursion up the Kalfeuser-
Thal towards the glaciers of the Sar-
dona is seldom made, but the scenery
is very grand. As far as Vattis the
path IS the same as that over the
Kunkels. There is a pass, said to be
very difficult, over the Sardona glacier
to Flims (Bte. 79).

/. Those who do not intend to cross
the Spltigen into Italy, ought at any
rate to visit the Via Mala and may
return in a long day.

The rly. now crosses the Rhine
by a covered wooden bridge, and
passes out of canton St. Gall into
the Orisons, to

Mayenfeld Stat, {Inn: Alte Post),
a httle walled town immediately
opposite to Ragatz, and about 12
m. from Coire, containing an an-
cient tower said to have been built
in the 4th cent, by the Emperor
Constantius. The valley or the
Rhine has a srand appearance from
this point. The peak of the Falk-
n%88 IS a conspicuous and striking
ol^ect in the view to the N.E. The
Rhine alone is unpicturesque, from
the width of its bed and the large
space of unsightly sand and gravel left
bare in summer. Its bed is constantly
rising, so as to threaten more fearful
inundations; and a plan has been
proposed, by M. la Nicca, of cutting a
new channel for its unruly stream,
from this point as far as the Lake
of Constance. The railroad to Coire
is carried along the rt. bank of the
Rhine, crossing the

Landquart (Stat,), an impetuous tor-
rent, descending from the valley of
Prattigau (Rte. 98), which here enters
the Rhine. Diligence to Davos daily.

Beyond this, the Convent of Ffeffers

218

ROUTE 66. — COIRE.

Sect. I.

is visible from the road; the snowy
heights of the Calanda rise into sight
on the opposite bank of the Rhine;
and the ruins of feudal castles, perched
upon rocky knolls, OTcrlooking the
▼alley, give a highly picturesque cha-
racter to the scene. One of the most
conspicuous is Haldenstein, nearly op-
posite Coire.

Zizers Stat. (Inn : Krone), near which
is Molinara, the country-seat of the
Bishops of Coire.

From the valleys on each side be-
tween the mountains proceed torrents,
which have borne down the debris
of the mountains, and have thereby
formed long hills, reaching co the
Rhine. The highest parts of these
hills, next the mountains, must be
several hundred feet high, whence
they gradually slope away. The road
regularly ascends the hills, crosses
the bed of the torrent at the top, and
then descends.

Coire Terminus (Germ. Chur ; Ro-
mansch, Cuera,) — Inns: ♦H. Luk-
manier, near the rly. stat., good and
moderate; — Capricorn, or Steinbock,
outside the town, civil people ; good;
— Weisses Kreutz (White Cross), and
Freyeck, united. The wine of the
VaUeline is generally consumed in
the Grisons, but Completer, which
grows on the Rhine, near Malans, is
very good, and should be tried here.

Coire, capital of the Grisons, the
Curia Rcetorum of the Romans, is an
ancient waUed town of 7560 Inhab.
(1700 Rom. Catholics), about a mUe
from the Rhine, at the mouth of the
defile of the Plessur river. Its pros-
perity arises from the high roads
upon which it stands, which form the
channel of communication from Italy
into Switzerland and Western Ger-
many. Coire is the staple place of the
goods transported over the two great
Alpine carriage-roads of the Spmgen
and Bemardin. It is the place of meet-
ing of the Council of the Grisons; a
member of which claims the title of
" Your Wisdom" ("Euer Weisheit").

The town has narrow streets, and
stands on uneven ground, at the en-

traiice of the magnficient Glen of the
Schalfigg-thal ; some curious domestic
architecture will be found in it. The
Bishop's Palace and the quarter around
it, inhabited by the Roman Catholics,
occupy the summit of an eminence
and are separated from the rest by
walls and battlements, closed by double
gates. Here is situated the Ch, of St,
Ltidus, or the Dom, an exanmle
of early pointed Gothic, including
fragments of earlier buildings. It
is entered from the W. by a round-
arched portal supported on monsters.
The choir is raised on steps, leaving
open to the nave the crypt beneath,
which rests on a sii^^ pier, whose
base is a monster. The statues of
the Four Evangelists, Janus-like» in
pairs, standing upon lions, are very
ancient. There are singtAar old
carvings (altar-piece or reredos) and
paintings, and monuments of the
noble Grison families. There is
a sacraments-house v^ith metal door,
and two other fine shrines, and
some candlesticks of metaL lii the
sacristy are preserved the bones of
St. Lucius,' a British king, and the
founder of St. Peter's Ch., Comhill,
and some specimens of church plate,
a bishop's crozier, a monstrance of the
14th centy., shrines, &c

The Episcopal Palace (Hof ), near
the church, is an antique building
modernised; the staircase and halls
are sing^arly decorated with stucco-
work. The bishop's private chapel
is in the heart of an old Roman
tower called Marsdl, attached to the
N.E. side of the palace. St. Lucios
was put to death in this tower. In
another wing is a rude Dance of
Death, much mutilated. There is a
second Roman tower, Spindl, in an
angle of the walls.

Behind the Palace is a kind of ra*
vine, lined with vineyards, across which
a path leads to the Soman Catholic Se-
minary, from which is a picturesque
view of the town. There is a consicter-
able collection of Romansch literature
in the Library of the Cantonal Schools,

Diligences every day to Milan, by

Smtzerland. bodte QQ. — ^bomaksch language, the grisons. 219

the Splugen, in 29 hr^. (Bte. 87);

to Bedunzona, by the Bemardin, in 17

lure. (Bte. 91); to Sftmaden (daily) in

12 brs.; to the Eneadine, by Tiefen-

ka&ten, oTer the ^ndier Pass. (See

Bte. 92.)

The Homamx^ or Humonsch LangvLoge,

The Romansch (properly the Bato-
MomanaA) Umgnage is one of those
which, in the course of the middle
ages, to<^ their rise from the common
or Bostic Latin (Lingua Bomana
rostica), spoken in different parts of
the Boman empire in Europe. The
Pft)TeD9al of the S. of France is ano-
ther, and the Wallachian (Bomouni)
is a third of these tongues still exist-
iiig. The Bseto-Bomansch was at one
time spoken all through the Boman
province of Ratia^ which included the
modeni countries of the Orisons, the
T^l, and the adjacent districts of
Switserland and S. Germany, where
iMoky Bomansch proper names of
flaoes still remain, though the inha-
bitants speak Grerman. Besides a con-
siderable mixture of pure German,
Ae Beto-Bomansch contains several
kmdred words, relating to Alpine life
and occupations, derived m)m the
aboriginal Alpine tribes, whom Livy
asserts to have been related to the
£tniseans.

The population of the Orisons, in
1850, amounted to 88,935, of whom
about 50,000 speak Bomansch, 30,000
German, and 8000 Italian (in the S.
districts of Misocco, Bregaglia, and
PDschiavo). As regards grammatical
differences, the £)mansch of the
Orisons is divided into three principal
dialects, which prevail in — 1. The
UpperEogadine; 2. Lower Engadine;
3. TheOberland, or country "above
and below the forest"

The literature of the Bseto-Bo-
mansdi hmguase dates back to the
latter half of tne fifteenth century,
he^gumiog with popular sonss relating
to wariike exploits, succee£d in 1525
by an epic poem by Johannes Travers,
a chief actor in the events he describes.
The first printed book was the trans-
lation of we Kew Testament into the

dialect of the Upper Ennidine by
Tachem Bifrun, a lawyer of Samaden.
It was published 1560, and had great
influence in the extensive spreaid of
the Beformation through the whole
BiBtian Yalley of the Inn. It was
followed by other translations of the
whole Bible, by books of prayer, cate-
chisms, &c., throughout the Bomansch
Orisons; and the example set by the
Protestants was quickly followed by
the Boman Cathobcs.

Most of the inhabitants of the
Orisons are bilinguals, who, if they
speak Bomansch, speak Italian or
German likewise. The laws are written
and the edicts of Government are pub-
lished in Bomansch, and there are two
Bomansch newspapers — * Amity del
Pievel' (the Fnend of the People),
ultramontane, published at Coire in
the dialect of the Oberland, and the
liberal * Oazetta d'Inngiadina,' in that
of the Lower Engadine.

The traveller in the Orisons may
be reminded that, the Bomansch names
of places, of two syllables, generally
have the accent on the last syllable,
as Arddz, Cem^z, Lavin, Mascin, Ba-
gatz, Sargims, and that the Bomansch
names of many places differ materially
from the German: e,g,<, Disentis, Bom.
Muster; Brigels, Rom, Breil; Walters-
burg, Rom, ifors; Ems, Rom, Dommat.

History and Government of the Grau'
bunden or Grrisona, — It must not be sup-
posed that the conspiracy on the Griitli,
in 1307, and the exploits of Tell, gave
freedom to the whole coimtry now c^led
Switzerland, or even influenced more
than a very small part of it — the Forest
cantons — except in as far as such a
spirit-stirring example is capable of in-
fluencing the minds of a neighbouring
people. For more than a century after
the first Swiss union, that part of the
country of Bhstia now called Orisons
groaned under the tyranny of almost
numberless petty lords, who, though
they possessed but a few acres of land^
or even no more than the number of
square feet on which their castle stood^
yet assumed the rights of independent
sovereignty, ws^^g perpetual petty
war with their neighbours — oppress-

220

ROUTE 67. — BREGENZ TO COtRE.

Sect. I.

ing their own subjects, -and pfllaging
,alf travellers — the ancient form of
levying duties and customs. The best
notion of the state of society which
existed during this period of the Eau-
strecht (club law), may be formed
from the quantity of feudal ruins
which stud not only the main valleys
of the Bhine, but even the lateral val-
leys and gorges of the Bhsetian Alps.
At last a day of retribution came.
Hie peasants rose in revolt and threw
off the yoke of the nobles — ^with less
violence than might be expected,
chiefly because the sreat ecclesiastical
potentates, the Bishop of Coire, the
Abbots of St Gall and Disentis, and
some of the more influential barons,
sided with the peasants, directing, in-
stead of opposing, the popular feeling.

The result of this was the Grison
Confederacy (147 1 ), quite distinct from
iJie Swiss Confederacy, composed of
Three Leagues (Biinden) — the Upper,
or Grey League (Ober, or Crraue
Bund), 1424 (named from the simple
grey home-spun coats of those by
whom it was formed) ; the League of
God's House (Ca D^ in Bomansch, in
Germ. Gotteshaus Bund), so called
from the church of Coire, ike head and
capital of this league, 1396 ; and the
Leasee of the Ten Jurisdictions
(Zenn-Gerichte), of which Mayenfeld
is chief town (1428).

The government produced by this
revolution presented a remarkable ex-
ample of the soverei^ty of the people
ana of universal sunrage. Not only
every valley, but in some cases every
parish, or even hamlet, in a valley, be-
came an independent commonwealth,
with a government of its own, with
peculiar local administrativerights and

Erivileges. Sometimes one of these
ree states, sometimes several together,
formed a commune or schnitze, lite-
rally slice (gemeinde or gericht) ;
eacn commune had its own general
assembly, in which every citizen of the
age of 18, sometimes younger, had a
vote, and by which the magistrates
and authorities, down to the parson
and schoolmaster, were elected. With
such a complication of machinery,
it is diflicult to understand how any

government could have been carried
on ; and we accordingly find the
history of the Grisons little better
than a long series of bickerings, feuds^
revolts, conspiracies, massacres, in-
trigues, and peculations. The wisest
decisions of the diet of the canton
were annulled or frustrated by the
votes of the general assemblies, ac-
cordingly as the interest or caprice of
the most influential popular leader
might sway these meetings at the mo-
ment. Two great fammes, those ot
Flanta and De Salis, in the end, long
monopolised the chief influence, as
well as the patronage and offices of
the federal government. Such was
the practical result of this democracy
of the purest form in theory.

Towards the end of the 15th centy.
the Grisons concluded a permanent
alliance with the Swiss, and in 1525
conquered Chiavenna and the Valte-
line, the inhabitants of which they
treated in the most o|)pressive and
tyrannical manner until they were
separated in 1798. In 1814 the Grisons
became a Swiss canton.

A new local and administrative
organization of the canton of the Gri-
sons was introduced in June, 1851.
According to this, the old historic
names and divisions are abolished,
and the canton is portioned out into
14 districts, 39 circles, and 205 com-
munes or parishes.

ROUTE 67.

BREQENZ TO COIRE, BT VADUZ.

The direct route from the Tyrol to
eastern Switzerland is by the high-
road of the Yorarlberg, which quits
the valley of the Inn at Landeck, and
enters the valley of the Rhine at
Feldkirch. Diligences from Landeck
to Bre^enz daily, in about 18 hrs.
Pedestrians may reach Bregenz from

Suyitzerland.

ROUTE 68.— BOBSGHACH TO APPENZELL.

221

1ke Tyrol, or the Bavarian Alps,

ilxroiigli the beautiful yalley of tiie

BregGQzer Ach, a monntaiii torrent

^Mch, after a course of about 35 m.,

falls into the Lake of Constance a little

S.W. of ft^genz. The quickest way

from Bregenz to Coire is to take the

steamer to Rorschach, and the rly.

thence to Coire (see Rte. 66). Those

who wish to see the country may

prefer to take the carriage-road along

the rt bank of the Rhine.

Bregenz, Inna : Oesterreichischer
Hof; Post, or Goldener Adler;
Schwaner Adler ; Krone. (See Hand-
book TOB SOUTHEBN GeRMANT.)

From 40 to 50 fr . is asked for a carriage
to Ssgatz, or to Mayenfeld, where the
riy. to Coire crosses to the rt. bank
of the Rhine. Diligence daily from
Br^ens to Feldkirch. It is a driye
of 7 leagues = 21 m. to Feldkirch
(Tjub: Post ; Elogel Gabriel), the fron-
tier town of Austria, finely situ-
sted at the opening of the yalley
of the ni, through which lies the
lugh-roed to the Tyrol. Trayellers
from Innsbruck or Botzen, bound for
(kire, should take their places only to
Fddlurch. About 1 m. out of the
town the road quits the Austrian ter-
ritory to enter the principality of
lichtenstein, one of the smidlest
soyerogn States in Europe, measuring
about 12 m. in length by 3 or 4 in
breadth. Hie Prince has yery large
poKesnons in Austria, and usually
hfdds a high position at the Court of
Vienna, not caring to exercise in
penon his rights of miniature royalty.
He is, howeyer. a member of the
Germaoic Confederation, and contri-
butes 55 men to the Federal army I
The Mgh-road trayerses Vaditz, the
capital of this minute State, and about
5 BL fiirther Baiters (^Iwn: Post)^
formerly a post-station, at the foot of
the heights, which are crowned by the
fortress of Luziensteig, contested be-
tween the Swiss and Austrians in the
15th eenty. and Thirty Years War
(1621-24), and in the war of the French
JBerolation (1799-1800). It was rebuilt
1^30. Near Balzers is a ferry across
the Khine by which Raeatz is reached
sooner than by Mayenfeld, 4^ m. far-

ther, and about 18 m. from Feldkirch,
is Mayenfeld Stat Thence to Coire
by rly. (Rte. 66).

ROUTE 68.

BOBSCHACH, OB ST. GALL, TO aAIB AND
APPENZELL; WITH EZCUBSIONBTO THE
WEISSBAD, THE WILDKIBGHLEIN, AND
THE HOCH SENTI8.

The canton Appenxell lies somewhat
out of the beat of trayellers, com-
pletely surrounded (enclay^) by the
territory of canton St. Gall, and shut
in, at its S. extremity, by the Alps ;
on which side no great hirh roads
pass through it. Appenzell itself lie-
in a cul-de-sac of the mountains, ext
cept for such as will trayerse difficuls
paths oyer the high Alps and glaciers.
On this account, it is but little yisited
by English travellers. It originally
belonged to the leairae of Imperial
Towns under a bailfi, but in 1513 it
joined the Swiss cantons as the 18th
and last canton of Switzerland before
1798. The canton is divided into
2 parts or districts, called Rhoden^
quite independent of each other,
but enjoying only one vote at the
diet. Outer Rhoden is a very thickly
peopled district, having 8781 Inhab.
to the Qerm. sq. mile, who are
Protestants. These are almost ex-
clusively engaged in manufactures,
chiefly of cotton, muslin, tambouring,
&c. Inner Rhoden, on the contrary,
is a land of herdsmen, and is Roman
Catholic; its high and bleak moim-
tains produce- nothing but rich pas-
turage and sweet grass, upon which
vast herds of catue are fed. The

fovemment, in both states, is a pure
emocracy: the General Assembly,

222

ROUTE 68. — RORSCHACH TO AFPENZELL.

Sect. I.

or Landesgemeinde, is composed
of every male born in the canton.
In^ travelling through this somewhat
primitive district, two unusual objects
maj' attract the traveller's attention, —
the pillory, bj the road-side, furnished
with a collar (carcan), a hole for the
neck, a padlock, and a chain ; and
the bone-house, or ossuaire, in the
churchyards, destined to receive the
skulls and bones, which, after lying
a certain number of years below
ground, are due up to make room
for others; and, navmg been ticketed
and labelled with the names of their
owner, are laid out for show on shelves
in the bone-house.

There is an appearance of pro-
sperity, of cleanliness and neatness in
Ausser Rhoden, which is very pleas-
ing. The green hill-sides to their
very top are studded with cheerful
looking houses, the dwellings of the
peasants. The villages of Trogen,
Teuii^n, and Speicherare highly in-
teresting, for, though the houses are of
wood, they are tastily and comfort-
ably built, and most of them with a
wefl-tended garden befbre them. In
fact many persons of ample fbrtone
reside in these little towns, much of
the Swiss muslin being made or em-
broidered here fbr St Gkdl houses.
Every cottage is lUled with females
aasiduoosly busied in embroidery. Bat
a remarkable change greets the tra^
Teller, on entering Roman CathoHc
Inner Rhoden, from Protestant Outor
Rhoden. He exdianges cleanliness
and industry fbr filUi and b^gary.
What may be the canse of diis is not
a salject suitable for discussion here^
The Appenaellers are passionately
ftknd of gymnastie exneises; and a
pari of everT holiday is devoted to
wrestling and boxinrmatdies. Hnrl-
ing the stone is an^Sier frequent ex-
eiteisa. A mass of ro^ Tarring in
weight friMa half to a whole ewt., b
WMwd o» th^ sImmMcv; and Umi east
mward a distaste <^ ssTcial feet.
U l$i>» a waa of Trafac^ haiM a
sl\VMv >ic«%hii^ 194 Ihsu* 10 ft TKe
AywMM»lk>r?. are al$i> capital shots:
rtii aiatiph»f af« Md In suuaer «b

ine reports resound on all sides.
The laws of the canton (especially of
Outer Rhoden) restrict dancing to 8
or 4 days of the year; but, as the
people are much addicted to this
amusement, the law is frequently in-
fringed, and the peasants will often
cross Ihe frontier of the canton in
order to enjoy unmolested thor ttir'
vourite amusement. Beinc less over-
run by strangers than other parts of
Switzerland, the prices at inns, chai^;es
for g^des, horses, Sac^ are lower than
elsewhere.

Although the mountuns of the
cant(xi Appenzell are not of the first
order of magnitude, there are few dis-
tricts in the Alps which will better
reward the lover of nature who may
be tempted to spend some days or
weeks in exploring its recesses. For
pedestrians arriving by the Lake of
Constance, it offers the most direct
and agreeable route for eomHiencing
a walking tonr in the A^ It is
easily accessible by good carriage-
roads from the £. and W.; and,
though little frequented by Rngiish
tourists, it is annually visited by large
numbers of Grcnnan and Swiss viatois,
who chiefly come for the sake of die
cwre de petit hritj or moUum oar, whidi

is supposed to be very benefidal to
health. This "care"* consists in a
course of drinldng goats'-whey, hefe
called scAottoi, which is hrooidit in
Uurge quantities every mornings stiD
warm, to the estabUshments fre-
quented by the severs lor health.
Therecan be little donU that bcBcfit
is often derived, bat it may be allow-
able to bdieve diat the poremoimtain
air» healthfol exercise, and legalar
Ufe, have as large a share in the eftec
as the goalir-whey. The principal
establishments of this kind aie at

FhMs Ae village of Rorschach
is a cairia^Mtiad for
ehidiy i^hill (omnibos
Shis.\to

intMcUor Eek^ Here flags

SvoUzerkmd, boute 68.— bt. gall to oais. heiden. teuffen. 223

oBtiried out of the regolarlj strati-

fiei suidstOQe, and sent away into

Germany and Holland. 1| m. to Grub

ICatyiKift, and then Grub Beformirt,

From lienoe it is an lioiir'B walk to

Heiden, bat pedestrians may go direct

to Tro^ passing oyer the summit of

the Imm, a hill 3668 ft in height,

comnaztdhg a fine view. Turning

to tbe Tt, or somewhat W. of S., below

ch. of the Reformirt Grub, the sonmiit

is reaefafld inl hr.; descent to Trogeii

Ulir^orless.

Beiden. (Jims: Freyhof, good,
roQBtt 7 fr. to 12 fr. a-week for
penoos making a stay ; Lion (Lowe),
eleu and cheap ; Krone ; Linde.) In
additkm to the whey-cure there are
mioefal waters here, and it is much
£re(iaeDted during the summer. This
preOy Tillage (Pop. 2284), rebuilt
siaee 1838, when it was burnt to
tJiegrooiid, lies in the midst of pleas-
ing pastoral scenery, and many agree-
able ezcurnons may be made.

a. Aboat 4 m. S. of Heiden from
the little ch. of St. Anthony {SL An-
tan Ca^U\ a beautiful view is
gained, looking over the valley of
the Bhine, and part of the Lake of
Goaatance, and at the opposite ranges
of the Yorarlberg and Lichtenstein
moontaina.

^ ^ The top of the Kaien, above men-
tioned, ia reached from Heiden in
It br. It is about 5 m. by a good
TCid from Heiden to

%fl» {Im: Schafle), the seat of

^tforenunent of Appenzell ( Ausser-

*Wai). From hence to Gais there

IS a omage-road by Buhler, making

a eooaidenible circuit; for pedes-

maos the more agreeable route is

over the hill of the Gabris (2 hrs. to

^). Finger-posts are very nu-

neroos on the hUls in this district, so

thu a pedestrian need rarely be at

^Aoit The top €i the Gabris is much

OFergrown by forest ; so that, although

somewhat higher than the Kaien, and

nearer to the high range of the Sentis,

^he view is< less attractive, and few

travellers will think it worth while to
turn out of the direct path, which lies
over the shoulder of the hill, to

Gaia — lima: Ochs, largest; Lamm,
clean and cheap; Krone. The bread
is very good here. This little vil-
lage of neat timber cottages, mostly
converted into lodg^ne-houses by the
peasants their owners, irrefi;ularl^ scat-
tered over lawn-Uke meadows, is situ-
ated in an open country, with nothing
but green pastures around, at an eleva-
tion of 3000 ft. above the sea-leveL
Yet the reputation of its pure and
bracing air, and of its cure of goats'
whey, annually attract hither many
hundred invalids from all parts of
continental Europe ; and during the
season, in July and Aug^t, the prin-
cipal inns are generally full.

The peasants' houses are particu-
larly dean, trimly painted outside.
The native sones of the cow-herds
and dairy-mai£ of Appenzell are
highly melodious; the music of the
cows' bells is every where heard.

Gais lies in view of the Sentis and
its chain ; a noble object ; and at
the S. side of the Gabris, which may
be reached with little trouble in 1 hr.
on horseback. Guide 2 fr.

Gais is the most central place in
Appenzell, several roads meeting
there: —

1. From St. Gall by Trogen (see
above).

2. Another, more frequented, leaves
the canton of St. Gall, and enters that
of Appenzell ( Ausser-Rhoden) a little
before reaching, by an excellent but
hilly road,

Teuffenr-^Tnns : Hecht, good ; Lin-
den ; Biir). The inhabitants of this
flourishing village of neat cottages are
chiefly eng^ed in the manufacture and
embroidery of muslin.

3. From Herisau (Rte. 69) a char-
road, about 15 m., by Gonten and
Umasch, where there are establish-
ments for the whey-cure.

4. From Altstetten (Bte. 66). The
new road avoids the higher part
of the hill : on the old road, 2 m.
to the E. of Gais, is the Chapel of
Stoss, erected on the summit of the

224

ROUl'E 68. — ^APPENZELL. EXCUESIONS.

Sect. I.

steep pass leading down to the Rhine
ThsQ, to cothmemorate the almost
incredible yictoiy gained by 400 men
of Appenzell over 3000 Austrians in
1405. The Archduke of Austria and
the Abbot of St Gall had hoped to
take the Swiss by surprise with this
preponderating force. But a handful
of the mountaineers, imder the conduct
of Count Rudolph of Werdenberg, as-
sembled in haste, gave them battle,
and defeated the invaders, with a loss
of 900 men, losin? only 20 of their own
party. The blood of the slain is said to
have discoloured the mountain-torrent
which flowed past the battle-field as
far as its influx into the Rhine. The
view from the Stoss over the vaUey of
the Rhine, 2000 ft. below, and of the
snowy mountains of Tyrol and Vorarl-
berg beyond, is of the highest beauty.
A very steep descent leads from tne
Stoss to Altstetten rly. stat. (Rte. 66).

It is a distance of 8^ m. S.W. (there
is a footpath shorter) from Gais to

Appenzell — (Inns: Hecht, good;
Lowe.) Though the chief pla^e of
the district of Inner Rhoden, this is
but a large village of 3286 Inhab.,
consisting of old wooden houses,
with two convents, and a modem
church attached to a Gothic choir,
painted with representations of ban-
ners and flags taken by the Appen-
zellers in the 15th cent., and contains
nothing remarkable. This place de-
rives its name from the country-seat
of the Abbot of St. Gall (Abten-zeUe,
Abbatis Cella), having been anciently
built here, when the country around
was savage.

The Landesgememde, or Assembly of
the canton, meets on a square, near a
lime-tree, every year. In the Record
Office, ArchWf are preserved a number
of banners, conquered by the Appen-
zellers of old — ^the flags of Constance,
Winterthur, Feldkirch ; the Tyrolese
banner and free ensign, inscribed
"Hundert Tausend 'ftufel,'* con-
quered at Landek, 1407 ; the Ge-

noese banner of St. George ; and two
captured from the Venetians, 1516, in
the battle of Agnadel.

About 2i m. S.E. of Appenzell
is Weissbad, a homely boarding-house
and bathin? establishment, fkirly well
kept and oeautifully situated in a
retired spot, at the foot of the Sentis,
surrounded by grounds, from which
walks lead up the mountains. The
house is capable of acconmiodating 120
visitors, but the visitors and accom-
modation are inferior to those at Gais.

In addition to the cure of goats'
whey, there are mineral sprmgs as
Weissbad, and the bath-houses con-
tain 80 baths.

Excursions, — a. To the Alpensee^ 1
hour's walk : very pretty scene, suited
for ladies.

Three small torrents, the Baren
(or Sentis)-bach E., the Schwande-
bach S., and the Weissbach W., issuing
out of 3 Alpine valleys deeply fur-
rowed in the sides of the Sentis, in
whose glaciers they take their rise,
unite at Weissbad, and form the river
Sitter.

6. About 5 m. up the middle valley,
!•} hour's walk, is the singular
hermitage and chapel of the WUd-
kirchlein. It is reached by crossing
the Alpine pasture of the Bodmen-
alp, which, m spite of its elevation,
is in summer a perfect garden, un-
folding a treasure to the botanist,
and affording the sweetest herbage to
the cows.

In a recess scooped out of the face
of a precipice, 170 ft. above these
pastures, a little chapel has been
perched. It was built 1648 by a pious
inhabitant of Appenzell, and dedi-
cated to St Michael, and on that
saint's day mass is celebrated here
annually. A bearded Franciscan used
to occupy the hermitage adjoining,
and conduct strangers through the
long caverns which perforate the
mountain behind his dwelling. Kow
the innkeeper is the guide.

A door at the extremity of this
rocky vault gives sudden access to

Sioitzerlcmd,

ROUTE 69. — ST. GALL TD UZNAOH.

225

snotker fine jMatanfef the Ebena^i>j
5090ft. above the sea-kvel, whose sum-
nut, where there is an /tifi, is 20 min.
wi^ from Wildkirchlein, command-
ing a£urmore eztensiTe and a different
view, extending^ oyer the Sentis,
Kamor, Knrfirsten, the lake of Con-
stance, and the Suabian hills. No one
should omit going through the natural
tunnel perforating the mountain.

e. The Sentis, the highest mountain
in A|rpenzel], 8280 ft aboye the sea-
IcTel, may be ascended from Weiss-
bad in 4^ hours. The yiew from the
top is much extolled, and a panorama
of it has been engrayed. Various
paths lead up to it; the best and
easiest, whieb is also perfectly safe in
the company of a guide, leads by way
of the Meglisalp — Inn — (3 stunden);
Wagenliicke (2 stunden); to the sum-
mit (1 stunde).

d, From Weissbad to the Hohen^
kattm, which is the highest point of
the Kcanor range, is a walk of about
2J hours. Prom the top (a small
Inn) is a fine yiew oyer the Rhine
Talley, part of the Lake of Constance,
the iUps of y orarlberg. There is a
path from- Weissbad by^riiUisau, and
thence by the Kamor or by the Hohen-
kasten, to Sennewald in the Rhein-
thal, in 5 hours.

£yen without ascending to the
summit of the. Kamor, the trayeller
crossing the ridge has a delightful
prospect oyer the Sentis and canton
Appenzell on one side, and oyer the
lake of Constance, Tyrol, and the
Khine, on the other. A 3rd path
leads oyer to Sax in the Bheinthal
from the lower end of the Fakler See
at the head of the S^tisthaL None
of these paths are easy to find without
a guide.

A steep and rather difficult path,
commanding some fine yiews, leads S.
oyer the ridge of the Sentis by the
JErayalp from Weissbad to Wilcmaus,
the birthplace of Zwingli, in Toggen-
burg (Rte. 71), in 7 hrs.; whence in
another day Wesen, or Wallenstadt,
may be reached. The paths are diffi-
cult to find without a guide.

ROUTE 69.

8T. GALL TO T7ZNACH, BT HEINBICHS*
BAD AND BSBIBAn.

3} posts a 30 £ng. nu

Poets. EDg. m

StOalL
Heriaan.
Wattwyl
XJsnach .

If = 16*

1 =: 9

DiHeences twice daily in 6 hrs. to
Uznacn. From thence rly. to Zurich
or Coire.

This is a yery agreeable driye
tiirough a well-planted hilly country,
presenting here and there distant
yiews of Uie higher Alps.

About 2 m. from St Gall, a little
beyond the yillage of Bruegen, the
road crosses the gorge of the Sitter
by the magnificent Kr&tzeren BrUcke,
a bridge 590 ft. long, and 85 ft. aboye
the stream, built 1810. It is eclipsed
by the more colossal rly. iron lattice
bridge, 580 ft. long, 164 ft. high, on 3
cast-iron piers. A little after we enter
canton Appenzell.

[About a mile to the N.E. of Heri-
sau is the watering-place called Bwi'
Hchsbad, The BoShaus is an elegant
establishment surrounded by agreeable

fleasure-grounds, the creation of one
[einrich Steiger, a rich manufacturer.
Two springs rising out of grayel, and
yariously impregnated with iron, car-
bonic acid, &c., are used for drinking,
and to supply the baths. Goats'
whey and asses' milk are also fur-
nished to those inyalids for whom
they are prescribed. Accommodation

L 3

226

EOUTB 71.-^WYL TO GOIBE. TOOGENBUBG.

Sect. I.

in a cowhouse is provided for invalids
Bufiering from diseases of the chest.
The neighbourhood is exceedingly
picturesque.]

Sierisctu — Inns: Lowe (lion), the
best; Hecht TBrochet) — an indus-
trious village oi Ausser-Bhoden, con-
tains 9600 Inhab., stands 2334 ft.
above the sea, and is advantageously
situated at the junction of two
streams, the Glatt and Briihlbach,
which turns the wheels of its nu-
merous manufetctories. It is a
very singular place from its extraor-
dinary irregularity of construction.
There are beautiful walks on the sur-
rounding heights { two of them are
topped by ruinous castles, the Bosen-
berg and Bosenburg, which, according
to the story, were once connected
together by a leathern bridge. The
lower part of the Chun^ Tower, in
which the Archives are deposited, is
the oldest building in the canton,
dating probably Som the lib. cen-
tury.

The articles chiefly manufactured
here are muslins, cottons, and silk, the
last a recent introduction: 10,200 per-
sons are employed in Ausser-Bhoden
in weaving mt^ and a rery large
number in embroidering them.

The Bimdswyler Toibel, a very singular
gorge or chasm, deep and wild, about
3^ m. from Herisau, deserves to be
visited.

There is a direct road from Herisau
to Appenzell (Bte. 68), by Wald-
stadt (If hours); Umasch (H\ and
Gonten (1): in all 5 stimden=a 15 m.

ScJidnengnmcL

Through an undulating country, we
reach the frontier of AppenzeU, and
re-enter that of its grasping neigh-
bour, St. Gall, before arriving at

Peterzell: 3 m. beyond the ruined
Castle of Neu-Toggenburg lies

Lichtensteig, (^Inn: Krone,) a town
of 744 Inhab. on the rt bank of the
Thur, the ancient county of Toggen-
burg. A picturesque and handsome old
Place f composed of lofty buildings with
porticoes, forms the principal street.

The valley of the Thur is studded

with factories and with the country
seats of their proprietors.

Wattu>yl (/flfis: Lion d'Or; Bossli),
a pretty manufacturing village, about
1^ m. farther, stand the convent of
Santa Maria and the Castle of Ibere.

The road soon after surmounts me
steep ascent of the ridge of Himmel-
wald. From its top a beautiful pros-
pect expands to view; in front the
take of Ziirich, with the castle, town,
and bridge of Bapperschwyl, in full
relief on its margm; behind it tlie
pine-clad and snow-topped Alps of
Schwytz and Glarus; on the E. the
remarkable peaks of the Sieben Kiih-
firsten, and oehind the fertile vale of
Toggenburg (Bte. 71). The road di-
vides on the opposite side of the hill.

UzfiOGh Stat (Bte. 13).

BOUTE 71.

WTL TO OOIBB. THE TOGOENBTTBa.

7} posts

Wyl.

Wattwyl
NesBlaa
WUdhaus
Haag .
Coire .

70i Eng. m.
Boets. £ng.iiL

1
3*

Sli

Diligence daily in about 7^ hrs. fr-om
Wattwyl to the Haag Stat on the
rly. from Borschach to Coire (Rte.
66). Post road.

Wyl on the railway from Winter-
thur to St Gall (Bte. 65). (/iw:
Schonthal, or Post)

The road, after leaving Wyl, con-
tinues on the 1. bank of Sie Thur, to
Dietfurth, where it crosses the river to

Switzerland.

ROUTE 72. — WESEN TO SCHWYTZ.

227

LichisnsMg and Wattwyl (Rte. 69).
From Wattwyl the Speer may be
ascended in about 4 hrs. (Rte. 13).

Ehnat (Inns: Sonne; Krone): 2400
Inhab. ; cotton manufactures.

Toggenburg^ as the long and fertile
valley of the Thur is cidled, extends
for nearly 40 m., firom Wyl up to
the source of that river, and a splendid
specimen of a Swiss valley it is,
embradng within its range abnost
all the Tarious features of Alpine
sceoeiy, save that there is scarcely a
tract of level alluvial bottom to be
found in its whole extent; its sides
being erCTywhere steep or undulating.
It is bomided by hig^ mountains; on
the 2f. by the Sentis, and on the S. by
the peaks of the Knrfursten. It was
anciently governed by counts of its
own. When their line became extinct,
1436, the district was claimed by can-
ton Zurich, and a memorable war on
the sobject ensued, in which the Swiss
cantons for the first time fought with
one another. It finaUv, in 1469, fell to
the abbot of St Gall, whose succes-
sors had continual disputes with the
mhabitants, especially after the Be-
fonnation. In 1712 the abbots, after
much fighting, were expelled, but re-
itoied in 1718. Smce 1803, the Tog-
genburg has formed part of canton
St GaS. It is thickly peopled; its
inhabitants, an industrious race, are
chiefly occupied with the manufacture
of mnslin and cotton.

NessUxu (^Inn: Krone), a scattered
villfl^. Pop. 2400. Ascent of the
Speer, Through a defile to Stein,

Mi St. Johaanxi {Inn : Hirsch), in a
wild dii^ct. The river Thur rises at
Unter-Wasser, at the foot of the Mte
Mann.

(Jp(m the hij^ ground diTiding the
vaUey of the Thur from that of the
Rhine, stands the remote village

WSdhaus — (Ifm: Sonne, Hirsch),
3450 fL above ihe level of the sea, and
at the S. base of the Sentis, between
it and the 7 Kurfiirsten. It is remark-
able only as the birthplace of the Swiss
reformer, TJlrich Zwmgli. The house
in which he first saw the light (Jan. 1,
1484-^ still exists in the hamlet of
Liisighaus. It is an humble cot-

tage of wood; its walls formed of the
stems of trees, its roof weighed down
by stones to protect it from the wind.
It has resisted the inroads of time for
more than 350 years; and the beams
and trunks whicn compose it are black
with aee. Z¥nngli's nimily were pea-
sants; ne quittedhome when 10 years
old, to go to school at Bdle.

[There is a steep pass orer the
Kray Alp from Wildhaus to Appen-
zell, by the Stiefelschlucht and
Sentis ; 8 hrs., rather difficult]

The road, surmounting the Semmer
Tobel, descends by two sweeping
zigzags into the valJey of the Bnine
near Gams, and soon after reaches

ffaag Stat, on the rly.

Thence by Werdenberg Stat, on the
rly. to

Coire (Rte. 66).

ROUTE 72.

WESEN OR RICHTERSOU W Y L TO SCHWYTZ
— EINSIEDELN — HOROARTEN.

Wesen to Lachen . .
Lachen to Schindelegi .

Miles.
. 15
. 8

Blcbterachwyl to Schindelegi 3

Schindelegi to Rothenthnrm . 7
Bothenthnrm to Schwytz . 8

Total, Wesen to Schwytz, 38 m.;
Richterschwyl to Schwytz, 18 m.

Diligence from Richterschwyl to
Schwytz, and to Einsiedeln, and from
Wesen to Lachen.

The road from Wesen after cross-
ing the Linth keeps by the side of the
hiSs to Lachen (^Inn: Bar), a village
of 1200 Inhab., on the margin of the
lake of Zurich. It thence passes
through Pfaffikon near the long oridge
of Rapperschyl, and soon afterwards
begins to ascend the steep slope of
the Stzel or Teusisberg, and crosses
the Sihl at Schindelegi, ascending

228

ROUTE 72. — MONASTERY OF EINSIEDELN.

Sect. T.

aeaiiL Many delightful views are
obtained in ascending, over the
lake of Zurich, and the summit com-
mands a good view of the Mythen
(Mitres), Rigi, and other mountains
in that direction. The holy hermit
Meinrad, the founder of Einsiedeln,
originally fixed himself on the top of
the Etzel, but the concourse of people
attracted to the spot by his reputation
for holiness drove him in search of
solitude deep into the wilderness. A
little chapel stands on the spot sup-
posed to have been occupied by his
cell. Near it is an inn. From this
chapel the first view of Einsiedeln is
obtained; the descent thither occu-
pies 1^ hour.

[The road from Richterschwyl im-
mediately begins to ascend and joins
the other at Schindeleg^.]

A mile and a half from Schindelegi
is

Biberbruoke {Inn), Here the road
to Einsiedeln turns off to the 1. Pas-
sengers by the diligences on the main
road, have a scramble for seats with
those that arrive from Einsiedeln.

[The road is studded at intervals
with chapels ctiHed' stations, each con-
taining a representation of some event
in the Passion of our Lord, at which
the pilgrims may stop and tell their
beaos.

Einsiedeln (French, Notre Bame
des Eremites; Lat., Monasterium
Eremitarum). Inns: Pfau (Paon) ;
clean and good; the charges are raised
dulling the pilgprimage. There are in
all 55 inns and 20 alehouses here,
mostly designed for the reception of
poor pilgrims, and distinguished by a
singular variety of signs.

The Abbey of Einsiedeln, which
forms the nucleus of a village of a
few hundred inhabitants, rises high on
a naked undulating plain 3000 ft above
the sea, producing little but pasture.
It is partly sheltered by a range of
wooded hills on the S.E.

The Monastery itself, an extensive
building in the modem Italian style,
is imposing, less from its architecture
than its size and its situation in so
remote and naked a solitude. The
existing edifice dates from the 18th

century (1719), and is the 6th or 7 th
raised on this spot since the first
foundation of the abbey, the others
having been destroyed by fire. It occu-
pies a stately site upon the hill side^
separated from the humbler buildings
or the village by a wide square.

The origin of the abbey is thus ac-
counted for in the histories published
under the authority of the monks : —
In the days of Charlemagne a holy
anchorite named Meinrad, of the noble
house of Hohenzollem, repaired to this
remote wilderness (then called the
Finsterwald) to end his days in soh-
tude and prayer, devoting himself to
tend a little black image of the Virgin
which had been given to him by St.
Hildegarde, abbess of Zurich. This
holy man was murdered by two rob-
bers in 861 ; but their foul deed,
which they had hoped would escape
detection on a spot so remote from
the haunts of men, was brought to
light by two pet ravens reared by
Meinrad, which pursued the mur-
derers with croaking cries, and flap-
ping wings, over hiU and dale, as far
as Zfirich, where their guilt was de-
tected, and they suffered for it on the
place now occupied by the Raven inn.
The reputation of sanctity, however,
surrounding the spot where the saint
had lived, increased so much after his
death, that his cell was rebuilt, and
a church founded by a community of
Benedictine hermits (Einsiedlern).
The first abbot was Eberard, and it
is affirmed by the monkish legend,
and perpetuated in the bull of Pope
Pius yin., that when the Bishop of
Constance was about to consecrate
the church on the 14th of September,
948, he was aroused at midnight by
the sounds of angelic minstrelsy, and
was informed next day, by a voice
from heaven, that there was no need
for him to proceed with the sacr^
rite, as the cnurch had been already
consecrated by the powers of heaven,
and by the presence of the Saviour !
The Pope pronounced this a true
miracle, and, in consideration of it,
granted plenary indulgence to all pil-
g^rims who should repair to the shnne
of Our Lady of the Hermits, in the

Switzerland.

ROUTE 72. — MONASTER y OF EINSIEDELK.

229

words iiis<»ibed upon the church,
** Hie est plena remissio peccatorum i
ciilp& et a poen&.'* The consequence
of this has been that during 9 cen-
Uunea there has been an almost unin-
tenupted influx of pilgrims from. the
saxToanding countries to this shrine,
and (tf wealth to the monastery. In
process of time these pious bene-
factioiis increased its revenues and
donuuDs to an enormous extent ; it
ranked second to St. Gall alone of
aU the monasteries in Switzerland.
Its abbot became a prince of the holy
Bonum empire, witn a seat in the
diet. He had his hereditary officers,
his chamberlain, marshal, and cup-
hearer ; and these posts were filled by
personages of noble or princely rank.
He also enjoyed the right of criminal
jurisdiction and the power of life and
death in several parishes and circles.
Down to the 16th century the abbots
themselves virere of noble families.

The French revolutionary invaders
of 1798 stripped Einsiedeln of its re-
sooroes and treasures, and carried ofP
the figure of the Virgin to Paris ; but
the monks, on abandoning the con-
tent, tran^K)rted with them into Ty-
nd a dnpncate figure, which they
assert to be the authentic original.
Notwithstanding these untoward cir-
eomstances, the abbey remains at the
present day the richest in Switzer-
tsDd, and the Black Virgin, whether
an original or a copy, has lost none of
her reputation. The average annual
namber of pilgrims who receive the
nerament in the church is 150,000.
Lk^ course of the year 1700 there
were 202,000 ; in 1861 about the same
number ; in 1834, 36,000 pilgrims re-
wired to the shrine within a fortnight.
The great feast-day is Sept. 14. Many
(MTthe pilgrims are deputies paid by
others, wealthier sinners, to do penance
for their principals, who remain at
home, and a pilgnmage thus performed
hj proxy is considered equally effi-
cacious with one made in person.

The convent contains about 100
Benedictine monks, including lay-
brothers, novices, &c.

In the square in front of the convent
stands a fountain with 14 jets oft

water, from all of which the pilgrims
drink, as it is traditionally reported
that our Saviour drank from one, but
from which of them is not known. In
the centre of the pile of conventual
buildings stands, as is usual in Be-
nedictine monasteries, the Church,
which has been compared with] that
of St. John Lateran at Bome. The
interior is somewhat gaudily orna-
mented with inferior paintings, marble
and gilding. A few feet from the
entrance stands the 8hriM or Chapel
of the Virgin, of black marble, with a
grating in front, through which, by
the glare of an ever-bumine lamp, the
spectator perceives the paUadium of
the temple, a little black fig^ure o^ the
Virgin and Child, attired in gold bro-
cade, glittering with jewels, and bear-
ing crowns of gold on their heads.
The space in front of the shrine is
rarely free of worshippers, and com-
monly hundreds, nay, at times, thou-
sands of devotees may be seen pros^
trate before it The walls of this part
of the church are covered with votive
tablets, rude paintings in oil, on which
no kind of accident or misfortune is
omitted, though they are chiefly de-
voted to representations of escapes
from fire and water, all effiscted by the
supposed miraculous interference of
the image. Its influence, however, is
not limited to incidents of private life,
many of the ereat events of history,
such as the victory of the Boman Ca-
tholic cantons at Kappel, are classed '
among the triumphant interpositions
of our Lady of the. Hermits. 250 new
votive tablets were huns^ up in 1835,
older ones being removed to make way
for them.

In the Chapel of the Magdalene, a
church of itsefr in size, on the 1. of the
choir, are 28 confessionals, over each of
which is written the langua^ in which
confessions will be received m it, either
German, Italian, French, or Bomansch.

The Treasury, once so rich in church
plate, was plundered b^ the French
in 1798, and one splendid monstrance
alone remains, but it is not readily
shown. The monastery includes, be-
sides the lodgings for the Abbot and
the brethren, a handsome refectory.

230

ROUTE 72. — ^BOTHENTHITBM. MOBGABTEN.

Sect. I.

a'kitchen, an hospital, a library con-
taining 26,000 vols., a museum con-
taining some fossils and minerals, a
free school and boarding-school, the
pupils of which are taught by the
monks, and a large cellar running
under the greater part of the edifice.
During meals, passages of some ap-
proved author, such as Lineard's His-
tory of England, Cobbetfs History
of the Beformation, &c., are read
aloud to the assembled brotherhood,
and even at times portions of news-
papers.

Zwingli, the reformer, was cuf ate of
Einsiedeln from 1516 to 1519. Theo-
phrastus Paracelsus von Hohenheim
was bom here, or in the neighbour-
hood, in 1498.

There is a rough foot path under
the Mythenberg (Mitres hill), called
the ffackent by Alpthal, from Einsie-
deln to Schwytz, shorter than the
carriage-road. It takes 4^ hrs. to
walk: no guide is needed. Near the
top is an inn, from which the peak,
caUed ffochstUchli (4470 ft.}, is i hr*s.
walk.

The carriage - road to Schwytz
makes, at first, a considerable detour :
the footpath is shorter, crossing the
Katzenstrick, a large tract of upland
meadow or conunon, direct to Alt-
matt.]

Eothenthurm (Inn dirty and extor-
tionate ; it is better to stop at La-
chen), a yiUaee of nearly 800 Inhab.,
is the place of meeting of the general
assembly of the canton Schwytz, con-
vened here every two years, in the
open air, on the first fine Sunday in
May. The Landamman is president,
and every citizen above the age of 18
has a vote. These meetings afford no
favourable specimen of the working
of universal suffirage, as they frequently
terminate in rioting and violence. For
example, in May, 1838, 9000 voters
collected here ; the show of hands was
declared to be in favour of the govern-
ment ; but the Liberal party being
dissatisfied with the result, a battle
ensued, in which the hustings were
broken and many persons much in^
jured. The democrats, enraged at
their defeat, published a manifesto,

callins on the ** Liberals to meet in
their districts, and expel the rich from
their assemblies as their ancestors ex-
pelled Gessler, since the government
of the rich has become a government
of murderers."

Rothenthurm receives its name frt)m
a Bed Tower still standing and form-
ing part of the defences of a long wall
or rampart, erected by the Schwytzers
along llieir W. frontier, to ward off the
inroads , of their lordly .'and lawless
neighbours. It extended hence as far
as Arth.

About 2 m. W. of Rothenthurm, on
the confines of the canton of Zug, easily
reached by a road turning to the rt.
between Rothenthurm and Eoce Homo,
leading to the little chapel of St. James,
on the borders of the lake of Egeri
(Rte. 15), is MoBGARTEN, memorable in
Swiss annals as the scene of their first
struggle for independence; as the spot
where the chivalry of Austria were
worsted, and their leader, Duke Leo-
pold, compelled to fly with disgrace,
on the 15tn of Novemoer, 1315, 8 years
after the expulsion of the Austrian
bailiffs. Fired with the hope of re-
venge and with feelings of hereditary
hatred, the duke led on his mail-clad
cavalry along the narrow strand be*
tween the lake and the hills. Just
where the ascent into the upland
country of Schwytz commences, run-
ning up a narrow defile, the Austrians
were met by the confederates, a
mere handful of men in compari-
son with their host, but of hardy
frame and resolute spirit, posted on the
ridge of the Sattel, near Haselmatt.
The first bold char^ of the Swiss,
rushing on with sworas and clubs, was
aided by a dischai^ of rocks from the
heights above, which quickly threw
into confusion the ranks of heavy-
armed knights. They attempted to
fall back, but their evolutions were
prevented by the infantry pressing
on in their rear. Without room to
manoeuvre, or even to turn (for the
naturally confined margin of the lake
was at that time diminished by an un«
usual incrpa&e of its waters), the proud
knights were totally at the mercy of
their light-armed foes. Many, in order

iiuntzerland, boute 73. — schwytz to olabus. praoel.

231

to escape the sword, perished byplung-
ing into tiie lake ; the rush of the
eavalry overwhelmed the infcuitry be-
\und, and in a short time the whole
tnay was thro^m into panic and dis<^
order. The Austrians lost the flower
o{ their nobility, and Leopold with
difficvdty escaped. This astounding
Tictory, the Marathon of Swiss history,
was gained in 1^ hr., over a force of
20,(H)0 vdl-anned men, by 1300 moun-
taineers, wlio now for the first time
met an army in the field.

The appropriate memorial of their
success erected by the Swiss was, ac-
cording to costom, a Chapel, dedicated
to StJames ; and senrice is performed
in it ammaUy, on the anniyersary of
the fight

13ie Htde yillage of Biberegg, on
the opposite (T^J) side of BothenUiurm,
was the craale of the family of Be-
din^, one of the oldest and noblest
in ue canton, and whose name ap-
pears oftener with credit than any
other. There is scarcely a battle in
which they are not mentioned, and
they haye 45 times filled the office of
]uA^mmAn^ the hi^^hcst in the state.
In 1798 Aloys Bedme, a hero worthy
of such an ancestry, Kd on the braye
inhabitants of these mountains to op-
pose, in defence of their liberties and
constitution, a far outnumbering force
of French under General Schauen-
berg. The Swiss met the inyaders in
the Talley of Rothenthurm, and droye
them back as far as the lake of Egeri
and the field of their ancient yictory
of Morgarten. This proyed but a
temporary gleam of success. Their
yictory had cost them so large a num-
ber (^men, that they were unable to
reneirihe contest; and an oyerwhelm-
ing force of French marching into the
canton rendered all further resistance
hopeless.

A long descent, commanding a fine
view of Schwytz, of the singiSar and

gfctnresque Mythen (Mitre) mountains
ehind it, and of the lake of Lowertz,
with part of the fSfill of the Bossberg
(Rte. 17), leads through Sattel, paist
the chapel of Ecce Homo, to Steinen,
a smalf yillage, having two Itms
(Rossli, Krone), memorable as the

I birthplace of Werner StauffiMher, <me
of the three conspirators of the Griitli,
nearly 4 hours' drive from Einsiedeln.
A small chapel, adorned with rude
frescoes of scenes from his life, and
the battle of Morgarten, is dedicated
to his memory. It was built in 1400.
The Bonehouse is as old as 1111.
Schwytz, (Rte. 17.^
[Trayellers bound nrom Einsiedeln
to the Rigi or Lucerne need not enter
Schwytz. Soon after leaving Steinen,
a path branching off to the rt. leads,
in about labour, to Goldau(Rte. 17).]

ROUTE 73.

SCHWYTZ TO OLABUS, BT MUaiTA, THE
PBAOEL PASS, AND THE KLONTHAL.

Stnnden. Eng. m.
Schwytz.

MnottaThal ... 3 = 9

Smnmit of the Pragel 3i s= lOi

lUcfafsaa li = 4i

yorauen 1 b& 3

Glams 3 = 9

These are the distances as reckoned
in the country, and a horse will re-
quire at least 12 hrs., but a good
walker will accomplish the distance
in 10^ hrs. There being a carriage-
road from Schwytz to Muotta, and
a good road from Yorauen to Glarus,
those who can walk 6 leagues have
no need of horses, and wul be bet-
ter off without them. The r^;ular
charge for a horse from Schwytz to
Glarus is 25 fr. (including return fare),
but advantage is taken of travellers
arriving at Brunnen or Schwytz to
demand a higher rate. A guide to

232

ROUTE 73. — SCHWYTZ TO GLARUS. MUOTTA-THAL. Sect. I.

Glams 5 fir., and 5 fr. return tare,
A pedestrian can, fbr 2 fr., hire a boy at
Muotta to show the way as far as Bichi-
sau, beyond which no guide is needed.
There is a footpath rather shorter than
the char-road from Schwytz, by which
Muotta may be reached in 2^ hrs.
The road crosses the plain to Ibach,
a village of scattered houses at the
mouth of the Muotta Thai, which here
assumes the character of a contracted
gorge; higher up it opens out, and
exhibits considerable capabilities for
cultivation. The road ascends the L
bank of the stream, traversing Ober
Schonenbach, down to which point the
Russians, under Suwarrow, drove the
French commanded by Massena, Mor-
tier, and Soult, in his desperate at-
tempt to force his way through them
to join the Russian army at Ziirich,
in 1799. The stone bridge (long since
swept away by the torrent and re-
placed by a covered wooden bridge at
a higher elevation) near this, which
carried the road over to the rt. bank,
was taken and retaken many times ;
the mingled blood of the two nations
crimsoned the stream which swept
down their floating bodies.

Beyond Ried there is another bridge,
near which is a pretty waterfall, and
a third brings the traveller to

Muotta Thai, or Mutten (a neat and
cheap little /nw, Zum Hirsch— between
the church and the bridge), the prin-
cipal village of the valley, on the
rt. bank of the stream. The parish
contains 1480 Inhab. In the neigh-
bourhood is the Nvnnery of St, Joseph,
a very ancient and primitive convent,
founcled 1280. The sisters are poor,
and their mode of living homely; they
make their own clothes and their own
hay; the superior is called Frau Mut-
ter. They receive visits from strangers
without the intervention of a gpratmg,
and will even give a lodging to a re-
spectable traveller. Whoever avails
himself of this must remember that
the convent is too poor to afford gra-
tuitous hospitality. They speak no
French.

From Muotta a nath leads by the
Kinzig Culm to Altorf. It was by
this path that Suwarrow brought his

troops. Another pass leads by the
BisiThal to Stachelberg (Bte. 75).

On the night of Sept. 27th and
28th, 1799, the inhabitants of the
remote and peaceful valley of Muotta
were surprised by the arrival of an.
army of an unknown nation and
tongue, whose very name many of
them had never heard, which came
pouring down upon their cottages and
g^een fields from the heights of the
Kinzig Culm, by paths ana precipices
usualfy resorted to only by a solitary
shepherd. These were the 24,000
Bussians under Suwarrow, whose
march out of Italy is recounted in
Btes. 34, 75, and 80. Here the
^neral first heard the news* of the
defeat of Korsakow and the main
Bussian army at Zurich. He at
first g^ve no credence to the report,
and would have hung the peasant who
communicated it as a spy and traitor,
but for the intercession of the la^r
mother of St Joseph's nunnery. £to
was now beset on all sides; part of
Lecourbe's division followed his rear»
Molitor occupied the summit of the
Muotta Thai, and Mortier and Mas-
sena blocked up its mouth. The bold,
attempt to cut his way out, through,
the forces of the latter general, was
defeated, as already mentioned, chiefly
by the unexpected arrival of a fresit
reinforcement under Lecourbe in per-
son, though vnth vast loss to the
French. The veteran conqueror was
compelled, for the first time in his
career, to order a retreat, and to
adopt the only alternative of crossing
the iPragel into Glarus. The detach-
ments of Molitor's advanced guard
were quickly driven in before him,
and the greater portion made pri-
soners. Suwarrows rear-guard, how-
ever, encumbered vnth sick and
wounded, was greatly harassed by
Massena; but llie republicans were
again repulsed with loss, and driven
back nearly to Schwytz. Suwarrow
expected to be able to reach Zurich
from Glarus, there to join and rally
the broken forces of Korsakow; but
Molitor, in person, warned of his ap-
proach, tooK possession of the posi-
tion of Nafels, blocking up the outlet

Simtzerland. ROirrE 73. — the pragel pass, klonthal.

233

of the Xiinth Thai, as Massena had

intercepted his passage down the

Knotta Thai, and the Bnssian once

more found his plans foiled and

Vaffled. fearing to b^ hemmed in

on tH sides by the French, he gave

\a& troops a few days of rest at

Gknia, rendered absolutely indis-

Sensable by the fatigues they had un-
einnie, after which he once more
took to the mountains, ascending the
Semft Thai (Kte. 80) and crossing the
Panixer Pass to the Orisons.

A litde beyond the nunnery, at the
end of the Tillaee, the view into the
Bisthal is very beautifiiL

The Pn^l pass is exceedingly
steep and stony on the Muotta side,
and sometimes marshy, and is scarcely
fit for horses, which moreover are not
essOj to be found at Muotta. There
are no difficulties on the Glarus side.
There is no need for a guide in clear
weather, as the pass is much used by
the natives.

From the inn at Muotta the path
continues for about 25 min. among the
fields and houses, then crosses the
stream which descends from Pragel,
tad immediately ascends rapidly its
I bank, very rocky and rugged
for the first 2 hrs., after which and
at the top there are large marshy
or boggy patches with planks and
stones laid across them. There is
nothing striking in the scenery on
tUgdde.

The Col of the Pragel (5200 ft.) is
flat; there is a chalet where bread,
wine, ftc, can be procured, but it is
abandoned in the first week of Sept.,
and fBUfw is said to melt late and
fiiS soon on the pass.

Hie first part of the descent is
gentle, but in about 20 min. the Klon-
thal opens, and the valley is partly
Mocked up hy a huge barrier, whicn
appears to be an ancient moraine;
the path makes a detour to the left to
ayom this obstacle, and then descends
more rapidly through pines to

Sichisau, where there is a clean
ilistic JVin, kept by civil people.

The Klonthal, into which the tra-
veller now descends, is exceedingly
beautifid. On the rt. hand it is walled

in by the Qlamiach rising in an ab-
rupt and sheer precipice, terminated
by a sharp edge of ice, and on the 1.
by the W iggis, scarcely less al)rupt.
It is a charmine walk of less than an
hour down hiU, chiefly over green
pastures and meadows, to

Vorauefiy where there is a very
good' country Irni^ kept by F. Weber,
an attentive landlord. A country
cart with seats can generally be ob-
tained here; but it is a better plan to
make this the sleeping-place, and pro-
ceed next morning to Glarus. The
landlord has a boat upon the lake, by
means of which the walk may be
shortened 2 m., and the scenery seen
to perfection. Deep in the re-
cesses of this charming valley lies
the Kldnsee, a lake about 2 m.
long, embedded deeply at the foot
of the Glamisch, whose vast grey
precipices descend at this point al-
most perpendicularly into the water.
It is surrounded by meadows of the
most verdant green, covered until the
end of autumn with flowers. The
precipitous tracks along the side
bf the valley, along which some
adventurous French pushed forward
in pursuit of the Russians, are pointed
out. £bel calls the Klonthal **une
des vallees les plus gracieuses qu*il y
ait dans les Alpes." Two Swiss have
inscribed on a rock at the foot of the
GUimisch, by the side of a waterfall,
an epitaph in memory of Solomon
Gessner, the pastoral poet, author of
the 'Death of Abel,' who used to re-
pair hither from Zurich, and spend
the summer in a chlQet.

The Yorauen appears to be a fa-
vourite excursion from Glarus, and is
a ?ood starting point for the ascent of
G&lmisch ; and there is an excellent
char-road from it. The char-road fol-
lows the 1. bank of the lake for about
3 m., and then begins to descend into
the valley of Glarus. Keeping to the
rt. where two roads meet, the manu-
facturing village ofEiedem is reached,
from which the road, or a footpath on
the rt over the hill, leads to

Glarus (Rte. 74),

234

ROUTE 74.— WBSEN TO GLARUS. NAFELS.

Sect L

ROUTE 74.

WESEN TO GLABUS AND THE BATHS OF
8TACHELBEBO.

Railway from Wesen to Glarus;
trains 5 tunes a-day, in 30 nL

The canton of Glarus, or Glaris, con-
sists of one great Alpine vaUey, and of
several secondary or tributary valleys,
branching off from it, and penetrating
deep into the high Alps. There is
but one carriage-road into it, which ter-
minates, after a distance of 6^ leagues
= 19^ Eng. m., at the baths of Stacnel-
berg ; and for carriages there is
no egress save the portal which has
admitted the traveller. It is a truly
Alpine district, abounding in very wild
scenery.

The railroad from Wesen crosses
the Linth canal (Rte. 13), and enters
the jaws of the vaUev of Glarus,
flanked by precipices almost perpen-
dicular, and backed by the vast mass
and snowy head of the Glarnisch
Mountain.

[The road firom Rapperschwyl to
Glarus passes through Lachen on the
S. side of the Lake of Ziirich, and along
the 1. bank of the Linth canal to
Nieder-Umen, where that from Wesen
joins it.]

Ndfeh Stat, — (/ntw ; Hirsch ; —
Schwerdt) — ^in the eorge of the valley,
a villaee of 1800 Iimab., and the chief
place in the Roman Catholic division
of the canton, is a Swiss battle-field of
some celebrity. 11 simple stones,
inscribed 1388, set up on tne meadow
of Reuti, hard by, mark the spot
where, in that year, 1300 men of
Glarus met a force of 6000 Austrians,
who, having taken Wesen by treachery,
had burst into the canton, rava^g
and plundering the country as tney
advanced. Wnen tidings of this
reached the ears of Matthias am
Buhl» the lands-captain, he hastijly

collected a handfal of shepherds, and
not only checked the career of the
foragers, in spite of the disproj^r-
tion of numbers, but after 11 distinct
charges, aided by voUeys of stones and
rocks dischareeafrom precipices above,
which threw the Austrian cavalry into
confusion, finally repulsed the invaders,
with a loss of 2500 of their number left
dead on the field.

The anniversary of the fight of
Kafels is still celebrated through the
canton by an annual festival. An en-
gagement took place at Nafel8,in 1799,
between the Austrians and French.

From Mollis {Inrij Bar) the villa^
opposite Nafels, the river Linth is
conducted into the lake of Wallen-
stadt by the artificial canal con-
structed by Escher (see Rte. IS).
Li the churchyard of Mollis the
heroes of Nafels are buried.

The valley of the Linth is subject
to much danger and injuir from its
sudden rises, and the swelhnff of its
tributary torrents. The broaS fringe
of unsightly sand and gravel visible
on both sides of the Linth, the com-
mon drain of the district, will show
what mischief that river occasions
after storms of rain, and during the
melting of the snows. The whole of
the lower part of the valley is at
times converted into a lake; and the
litUe patches of ground, which have
cost the peasant much hard labour
and care to cultivate, are at once
overwhelmed and ruined. The lime-
stone mountains of this district abound
in caverns, which serve as reservoirs
for the melting glaciers. In the spring
and early summer, the rocks a})pear
to stream from every pore, while erery
gorge and hollow sends forth a raging
torrent

Glarus was formerly subject to the
Abbey of Sackingen, to which rights
Austria succeed^ Glarus joined
the Swiss cantons in 1352, and after
the battle of Nafels gained partially
its independence} and towards the end
of the 14th centy. the canton purchased
the extinction of feudal rights, and
finally made peace with Austria. The
Reformation divided the canton and
occasioned severe strug;g;les and fight-

S/Msitzerland,

ROUTE 74 — GLARUS.

235

ixig. In 1798 the canton lost seyersl
dependencies. It contains 33,460
Innab., 5860 Koman Catholics, all
spesJung German.

<Jlart«(Glaris,Fr.) — {Iwns: Glarner
Bof*, dean, but rather dear and noisy;
—Babe; — Bailwaj Restaurant). This
little town (Fop. 4826), capital of the
canton, is chiefly remarkable for its
sednded situation at the base of
the Glimisch and Schilt, encom-
passed and shut in by the Alps,
whose bare ajid bleak precipices and
tops contrast remarkably with the
milder Terdure about their base. The
inhabitants are distinguished by their
indns^ and enterprise, which has
cosTerted Glarus into a place of manu-
&ctare8, especially of cotton, printing
ofmoslins, &c.

They possess a Clvih (Casino), a
iDodem house of fine masonry, and
a ^Ttt School for 700 children, erected
bjpriyate subscriptions, and reflecting
miieh credit on the public spirit of the
ddzens. The Gothic church, with 2
ipires, is open to Protestant and Ko-
manist alike. Zwingli was the pastor
here, 1506 to 1546. The Linth is
crossed by 2 bridges.

Hie Bwrghugelj an eminence sur-
mmmted by a chapel, commands the
best riew of the town, the green
neadows around, and the arid lime-
stone mountains Glarnisch (7175 ft.),
Wiggis (7030 ft.), Hansstock, and
Sarp&tock.

Ib 1861 Glarus was all but utterly
deslrojed by fire. At times a tre-
mendons wind called the F^hn sweeps
down the valley of Glarus with
the concentrated force of a fur-
naofttiast. It is so much dreaded,
that local laws haye existed for
generations, by which, on its setting
m* erery fire m the town, including
those used for purposes of industry,
must be extinguished. The very day
before the fire occurred, the propriety
of repealing these laws had been con-
sidered by the assembled inhabitants
of the canton, and by an almost un-
animous resolution it was resolved

to maintain them. It was dorine a
visitation of this dreaded wind that
a stray spark was carried from one
house to another, and a fire kindled,
which was not extingpiished till more
than two-thirds of the town were laid
in ashes. All the principal buildings
were burned to the ground, and 3000
of the population left houseless.

The name Glarus is a corruption of
Hilarim, a saint to whom a shrine was
built among these mountains at a
very early period.

The green cheese called Schabzieger is
peculiar to the canton Glarus. It
owes its singular appearance, rank
smell, and flavour, to an herb ^eU-
lotus cserulea, blue melilot: Germ.
Honigklee), which is partly cultivated
for this purpose in gardens within the
canton, and partly imported from
others. To fit it for use, it is dried,
ground to powder, and, in that state,
mixed with the curds. The cheese is
made of cows' milk The curds are
brought down firom the high pastures
into the valley in sacks, and,^ after
having a due proportion of herb incor-
porated with them, are ground in a
mill resembling that used for making
cider. After being thoroughly knead-
ed by this process for an nour or two
it is fit for pressing. The cheese is
ripe for use after a twelvemonth's
keeping.

Beyond the Linth, in the village
of Enneda, is the ^ huge cotton-null
of Jeune and Co.

It IS a pleasant 2^ hrs. drive or walk
from Glarus to Obstalden or Narexen,
where is a fine view over the whole
lake of Wallenstadt and part of that of
Ziirich. A broad road leads thitlier
from Mollis. N.B. The charge for
horses, guides, and porters in the
valley of Glarus is very high, and the
beasts are very bad.

Mountain paths from Glarus.

a. The Pragel pass (Rte. 73) by the
Elonthal into the canton Schwytz
through a beautiful pastoral valley:
the finest part of it is not more than
8 m. from Glarus, and may be reached
in a char.

b. Two mountain-paths lead to the
Lake of Wallenstadt; one, by the

236

ROUTE 74. — LINT-THAL. BATHS OF STACHELBERG. Sect. I.

Kerenzenberg over the W. shoulder of
the MUrUchenstoch (Rte. 13); the other,
to Murg, passing under the E. side of
the summit. The ascent of the Miirt-
schenstock may be easily combined
with either of these excursions. A
guide should be taken.

c. Two passes lead through the
Semft Thai to the valley of the
Vorder Bhein : —

(1) The Segues Pass (Rte. 79).

(2) The Panixer Pass (Rte. 80).

d. Three passes lead into the Can-
ton St. Gall^ which, like the last, are
reached through the Sernft Thai: —

(1) The Flumser Pass^ diverging
from the village of Matt, to the Flums
Stat, on the tTy, between Wallenstadt
and Sargans (Kte. 14).

(2) The Piseten Pass, from Matt to
Sargans, said to be easy.

(3) The Eamin Pass, from Elm to
Sargans, more difficult than the last,
about 10 hrs. walk.

The baths of Pfeffers maybe reached
by either of the last-mentioned passes,
by crossing the ridge between Weiss-
tannen, and the Kufeuser Thai. The
main object, however, with most
travellers who visit Glarus is to reach
Lint-thai and Stachelberg, up the
valley of the Linth, where first the
Glamisch, and, higher up, the Dodi,
with its snowy satellites, are objects
of extreme grandeur and beauty.

Stachelberg is one of the best head-
quarters for the lovers of grand
Alpine scenery. Numerous Excursions
of more or less difficulty may be
made, and passes, hitherto rarely fre-
quented by travellers, lead in various
directions. The principal of these are
described in Rtes. 75, 76, 77, 78, and
79.

The people of the canton Glarus
have exhibited the national propen-
sity to prey upon strangers as strongly,
but with less intelligence, than else-
where in Switzerland. A few years
ago prices were much lower than in
the canton Berne; but since tourists
have become more numerous, exor-
bitant demands are often made for
guides, horses, &c. Up to a recent
date, the peasant proprietors at the
head of the valley had resisted the

continuation of the char-road, or even
the making of bridges over the tor-
rents, because they find it a good
speculation to employ their children
to lay planks over the streams, a
service which the wayfarer can scarcely
refiise to reward! I

It is about 13 m. by a good road
from Glarus, through many villages,
and by numerous cotton factories and
charming scenery, to

Lmt'thal (Inns : Zum Baren, cheap
and fair; Lowe). Pedestrians may
prefer this to the hotel at Stachelberg,
which is dearer and a little more dis-
tant from the Pantenbriicke, and the
head of the valley. The Diligence
crosses the river below Lint-thai, and
will leave or call for strangers pro-
ceeding to the large Hotel and Baths of
Stachelberg, a tolerably well-managed
house, but often overcrowded, built on
an eminence on the W. side of the
Linth, surrounded by torrents, rocks,
and glaciers. It has greatly risen in
repute, as a watering-place, and on
account of the exquisite beauty of its
situation, and the virtues of its con-
centrated alkaline sulphureous spring^
which distils, drop by drop, fiom a
fissure in the Braunberg, is much re-
sorted to. The period of the " cure **
is fixed at between 20 and 24 days.
The hotel is surrounded by walks and
pleasure-grounds. It is resorted to by
a mob of holiday-makers on Sundays,
when the house is very noisy.

The valley of the Linth abounds
in fine waterfalls. Less than a mile
from the Baths are the Falls of the
Fdtschbach, About 1 hr. above Lint-
thai is the much finer fall of the
Schreyenbach, of the Staubbach kind,
which when seen from below appears
to issue from the sky. At the bottom it
spreads over 30 yards of rock, coming
down in a shower of water-rockets.
It is well worth while to turn aside
from the regular path to the Pan-
tenbriicke, in order to approach the
fall on the opposite side of the river.

A little further on is a clean little
Inn (H. du Todi).

The most interesting excursion firom
Stachelberg is that to the head of the

Simtzerlaiid*

BOUTE 74. — SAND ALPS,

237

Talley, 'vrhere the Linth escapes from

the glaciers that lie around the peaks

of the I^i^ Bifertm Stocky Scheerhom,

&c Above the baths the vale of the

linth becomes grander and more

anage; at length the bed of the riyer

contracts into a chasm, in the depths of

irUffihit worms its way, while a narrow

andataiep path alone leads along the

edg« of the precipice. 5 miles up (1}

hours' walk), at a spot where the

gtffge is deepest, is a singularly bold

ori^ of one arch of stone, 20 ft.

span, and 140 ft. above the torrent.

The ori^nal arch, the PantenJbrucke,

iras swept awaj by an ayalanche,

1852. tSiq gorge abore the bridge

Iweomes even more romantic and

vild; it is surpassed by few in the

About ^ hr. above the bridge a
tributary torrent joins the Linth on
the £. side, through a channel, but
s few yards in width and many
hundred of feet deep, cut into
the mass of the Selbsanft mountain,
which rises grandly in tier over
tier of precipices to a height of
about 10,000 ft Beyond this the
path crosses to the W. side of the
stream, and the gorge opens out a
little. After crossing some slopes of
diaint^rated slate at the base of the
Gonsistock, ianother bridge carried the
path back to the E. bank, and a little
nrther the chalets of the Lower Sand
JUp are reached — If hr. from the
Pantenbriicke — ^where milk and butter
may be obtained. From this point,
alioBt 4000 ft. above the sea, the
viewsi though confined by the rocks
wkiob rise steeply around, are ex-
traaely striking. Nearly due S. is
the magnificent) but rarely visited,
Biiierten glacier, enclosed by the pre-
cipiees of the Biferten Stock and Pla-'
tt^ on the E., and the Todi on the
W« It sends down its torrent, the
Btfartenbach, to join the main stream,
liere called the Scmdbacfi, a little below
the higher chalets. The Sandbach is
seen to flow from an upper plateau
W. of the Lower Sand Alp, and de-
scends the precipitous rocks on that
aide of the valley in a magnificent cos-
cctde, one of the finest in the Alps.

It is not, however, well seen from
anypoint easy of access.

The path to the Upper Sand Alp, or
Oberstaffel, after crossing the Biferten-
bach, ascends in zk^zags the steep
slope of the Ochsenbhinke, and at the
summit crosses the Sandbach just

?bove the waterfialL In } hr. ^2 hrs.
rom the lower ch&lets) the chuets of
the Upper Sand Alp are reached.

The position of these chalets is
striking and beautifuL They stand
at about 6000 ft. above the sea, in the
midst of bright green pastures, sur-
rounded by ruggedsnow-capped peaks.
The position is an admirable one for
expecutions over the neighbouring
glaciers, and traveUers occasionally
sleep there. They are, however,
but comfortless quarters; the fleas
are even more numerous than usual,
and there have been complaints of
incivility and extortion. Future
travellers must recollect that such
chalets are frequently not occupied by
the same men in successive seasons,
and, at the same time, that what has
appeared to these herdsmen to be
lavish payment received from one
traveller has encouraged them to
make unreasonable demands upon
others. From the Upper Sand Alp
it is possible to reach Amsteg, in the
valley of the Beuss, crossing the gla-
ciers of the Clariden Grat (Bte. 34), and
descending through the Maderaner-
thai. The route is said to be difficult,
and requires good guides, ropes, &c.
For a traveller intending to sleep at
the upper chldets, the best route from
the Lower Sand Alp is to foUow up
the Bifertenbach to the foot of the
Biferten glacier, and then wind round
the Ochsenstock to the pastures of
the Upper Sand Alp. A guide should
be taken. In the way back to Stachel-
berg, the route may be varied by
ascending the Beckistock; then, pass-
ing over the shoulder of the Gemsi-
stock, the path is rejoined near the
Pantenbriicke.

[The JDddi or Tddtberg (11,880 ft.) is
the siant of this portion of the chain
of Alps, and its summithad been rarely

238 ROITTE 75. — MUOTTA TO STACHELBERG. ONZIG KULM. Sect. I.

ascended until 1863, since when its
ascent has become popular. Th.
Thut and Gab. Voegeli are guides.]

ROUTE 75.

MUOTTA rO THE BATHS OF STACHEL-
BEBO, BY THE BISI-THAL ; OR TO
ALTORF, BY THE EIKZIQ KULM.

The parallel valleys of the Muotta,
which falls into the Lake. of Lliceme
near Brunnen, and the Sohachen, which
joins the Beuss near Altor^ are sepa-
rated by a rusged range of moun-
tains, a spur from the main range
forming the W. boundary of the
Lint-thai, whose extremities are the
Axenberg, impending over the Bay of
Uri (Rte. 18), and the Schevenstock
over Stachelberg. Two glens di-
verging to the southward from Muotta
run up into this wild district That
to the E., called the Bisi-thal, leads to
Stachelberg over the shoulder of the
Scheyenstock, while the western glen
leads over the Kinzig Kulm to Spirin-

fen, in the Schachen-thal, about If
r. from Altorf. Neither pass presents
scenery of the first order, but the
first is a short cut from Muotta to
Stachelberg. The pass of the Kinzig
Kulm has some fine scenery, besides
the historical interest connected with
it, to interest travellers, but it does
not lie conveniently in the route be-
tween any two frequented places.

From Muotta to Stachelberg is a
laborious walk of 9 or 10 hrs. A
good horse-path leads up the Bisi-thal
to the hamfet of Eigen ; the scenery
is very wild; it is much narrower
than the Muotta Thai, with overhang-
ing precipices, and well wooded. Ci
2^ hours the path reaches

Eigen, a scattered hamlet. Beyond
this the path is practicable only for the
pedestrian. No one should attempt
this without a guide. After leaving

the Bisi Thai the scenery is the most
savage conceivable. The summit of
the mountain between the valleys,
across which the path runs, is a
rugged* sunken plain of bare rock,
many miles in extent, without vege-
tation of any kind except on a central
green oasis (a little verdant plain),
where the soil has collected, the whole
surrounded by snowy peaks. The
path is only traceable in many parts
\iy the little piles of stones put up by
the shepherds to guide themselves ;
and the streams, instead of finding
their way into the valley as usna^
tumble in cascades into the bowels of
the mountun. This arises from the
strata of the rock being perpendicular,
or nearly so, which has also caused
the soil to be washed down by the
rain, leavin? the upturned strata of
the rock ntSced and bleached by the
weather, something like a crevassed
glacier turned to rock, and rugged in
the extreme. On the side of the
Linth - Thai this savage plain is
bounded by precipices which over-
hang the baths of Stachelbei^, and
it is flanked by two bold peaks right
and left. The descent to the Baths
is very steep and fatiguing: there
is no inn by the way.

Erom Muotta to the Kinzig Kulm .
the track leaves the path to
Eigen near the opening of the
Bisi Thai, ascending nearly due S.
**The ascent is continued obliquely
up a steep broken slope, till the
path arrives eventually upon the
wooded edge of a chasm, in ii^ch the
invisible stream, which issues from the
high valley leading up to the Pass, is
heard descending in cataracts into the
Muotta Thai. A track up the moun-
tain side, on the right bank of this
stream, is now pursued: and, after an
hour's walking from Muotta, the ab-
rupt ascent ceases, and the valley
above is entered. Having passed
through a wood, the path crosses the
river tor the first time by some chftlets
(1^ hour from Muotta). The river is
recrossed after another quarter of an
hour: a second forest is traversed,
and a third bridge crossed (2^ hours
firom Muotta). The part of uie vaJley

Smtzerland.

ROUTE 76. — MTTOTTA TO ALTORF.

239

below this bridge is narrow and pic-
tiiresqae, shut in on both sides by
lugh white precipices. Over the E.
nnge the sun md not appear, on
die last dnj of Jnly, till 8 o'clock.
^TVffi rich ^reen slopes N. of Muotta,
spccikled with chldets, and surmounted
by Tu( cliffs, may be seen from favour-
able poationsy whenever the eye is
tbrofwn back, through the opening of
&e yaJDey. After uie third bridge is
crossed, a wild open basin is found,
out of which the track is seen ascend-
ing from the S.W. comer. At this
comer the river is again crossed. 1^
hr. more are requisite before the
smnmit of the pass is attained. As
far as some chalets, about half-way
np^ the path may be traced without
nuidi difficultj, as it takes for its
guide the falliiig stream, now reduced
to a mere rilL Towards the summit,
however, it is faintly marked, and
Ue to be confounded with other
tracks. The stream is left behind,
the direction of ascent being towards
the south, among little hillocks and
hollows filled with snow; over open
poimd, where many directions might
betaken, and the proper route lost.
A short pole marks the crest of the
Pass (7280 feet), which is gained in
about 4 hrs. from Muotta.

"Great interest is attached to the

finzig Knlm, in an historical point of

▼iew, as being the scene of Suwar-

row's disastrous march from Altorf

in 1799. Haying pounced down, as

it were, upon the JBVench from the

heoghts of the St Gothard^ and

dmoi them before him to Altorf, he

tiieie found his progress barred by

the kke of Lucerne, without a boat

to cross it, his troops exhausted by

tatigue and famine, and the country

so completely drained by war as to

be quite incapable of supporting them.

The only altemative that remained

to liim, "was to attempt to join the

forces of the allies, through me hor*

rible defile of the Schachen; and to

cross the rarely-trodden summits of

the high Alps. The only passage up

this valley was by a mere path; so

that his army was obliged to advance

in a single file, abandoning much of

their artille^ and baggage. Their
march lasted 14 hours ; and before
the rear-guard had left Altorf, the
van had reached Muotta. Many of
the Bussians sank from fatigue by the
wayside, and perished; others fell into
the hands of tne French, who hovered
in their rear; the valley was strewn
with dead bodies of men and horses,
with arms and equipments. The re-
mainder of this memorable march is
described in Bte. 73. The picturesque
attractions of this route are of a high
order, as the view which it commands
is of great extent and magnificence.
This view is rather improved by being
seen from an eminence to uie £.,
reached in 10 m. from the CoL

** The descent into the Schachen Thai
is long and steep, but the path is well
trace<£ and the pole on the Kinzig
Kuhr^ being seen for a long time,
would help to guide the ascending
pedestrian on this side, though it is
useless for that purpose on the other.
The path lies uiroughout down the
pastures on the right bank of the
stream, but generally at a considerable
distance fromit The Schachen Thai
is reached at a point a little below
Spiringen, after a descent of 2-} hrs.
From thence to Burglen it is a walk
of } of an hour, and another ^ hour
brings the traveller to Altorf.** — R.E.

8 or 9 hrs. walk from Muotta to
Altor£

240 RTE. 76. — STACHEIiBERG TO ALTORF. KLAUSEN PASS. Sect. 1.

until it falls in with that from the
Einzig Kulm, and descends upon Spi-
ringen. This, though the longest, is
said to be less fatiguing: it is probably
•also the less beautiful track.

The other and more frequented path
descends bj long and steep zigzags,
by the rocks of the Balmwand,
into the Schdchen-thal ; on the L hand
is seen the very pretty cascade of the
Stdubi, Opposite the chapel of St.
Anne a TOrg&U occurred in 183o,
which arrested for some time the
course of the Schachen, and pro-
duced a small lake. At the villag^e of

ROUTE 76u

6TACHELBERG TO ALTORF, BY THE
KLAUSISN PASS.

h. m.
Stacbelberg.

Sommit 4 15

UDtenchachen ... 2 0
Spiringen .... 1 0
Altorf 1 15

8 30

Charge for a horse from Stacbel-
berg^ to the summit, 12 fr.; to Altorf,
24 fr. and a trink^eld. The path is
so well marked uat guides may be
dispensed with; it is practicable, for
horses. It turns out of the yaJley of
the Linth to the W. at Aue, about a
mile above the baths, and ascends the
valley of the Fatsch, or Urner Boden,
keepmg along its L bank; a very stiff
pull of If hours. Within a mile above
the junction of the Fatsch and Linth,
the valley belongs to canton Uri. It
abounds in fine mountain pastures,
and many of the inhabitants of the
Schachen-thal pass their summer here
amon? the cows. Urner Boden (there
is an humble Inn S^ hrs. from Stachel-
bere) is a scattered hamlet of 80 houses,
with a church, extending the whole
length of the valley. The culminating
point, or Klausen pass, is a ridge of
6150 ft. high, connecting the snowy
chain of the Clariden Alps on the S.
with the shattered Zingel, Glatten, and
CamlL From an eminence a little N.
of the summit a very fine view is ob-
tained of the opposite range of the
Scheerhom and Windgelle. On the
top of the pass stands a little chapeL
A little further on the path divioes,
leading L by a rapid descent, or
straight on along the higher level

Unter SchSchen, the first on the Uri
side (a small Inn, Rose, homely but
tolerable), another branch of the
valley opens S., and sends forth the
main stream of the Schachen. Au
excursion may be made from here
to the glacier which descends from
the Gross Ruchen, wrongly called
BUchi on most maps. The Spitze, the
mountain on the L bank of the torrent,
discharges dangerous avalanches iu
spring. At

Spif-ingen, and a little lower down,
near the chapel of St. Anthony, there
are inns, tolerably good tor this
country.

Burglen, the birthplace of Tell,
stands at the mouth or the Schiichen-
thaL (Bte. 34.)

Altorf (Rte. 34).

The scenery on this route is very
interesting. No*single point is equal
to the view from the Elon See on the
Pragel route (Rte. 73); but on the
W. side the Schachen Thai is nxuch
finer than the Muotta ThaL

Switzerland. fioOTB 77.— ^TiCHELBEiMS td diseKtis, sand gbat. 24 1

BOUTE 77.

8TACBELBEBC TO DI8ENTJS, BT THE
SANB OKAT.

This |>ass should be undertaken
ttly in settled weather, and by prac-
tised pedestrians. A good guide is
indispensable. (Gabriel Zweifel, at
Lint Thai, and Jean Baptiste Monn,
ttlMsentis, have been recommended ;
tile latter is said to be well acquainted
vith the glaciers surrounding the
Todi.) Starting from Stachelberg, it
ii t very long day's work to reach
Disentis — about 14 hrs.; and most
tAYellers will find it advisable to sleep
^ther at the upper or lower Sand
Alp. The lower ch&lets probably
iwd better accommodation, but they
are 2 brs/ walk nearer to Stachel-
bei]^. The ascent from Disentis being
sliorler than from Stachelberg, the
pas may be made from that side in
aboBtiahrs.

The route from Stachelberg to the
upper Sand Alp, 5} hrs.' walk, has
beoi described in Rte. 74. Beyond that
foini the track keeps near to the stream,
aod in about | hr. commences to ascend
the Sand glacier in a S.W. direction,
towards the Katscharauls^ between
which peak and that of the Kleiner
Todi lies the pass. The glacier, with
proper precautions, offers neither diffi-
culty nor danger ; and in about 4 hrs.,

or lets if the snow be in good order,
the summit of the Sand Grot is at-
tained, 9272 ft. abore the sea. The
Tiew of the surrounding Alps is ex-
tremely fine. The Tddi (11,883 ft.) is
the most prominent object. It is here
seen that, contrary to the common
opinion, the highest summit of the
Todi does not lie in the raugp which
forms the watershed betweeii Glarus
and the Grisons, but in a huge but
tress projecting on its N. side. Th^t
peak which does lie in the main range,
and which is taken for the Todi when
seen from the valley of the Vorder
Rhein, is the Piz Hosem, a lower com-
panion of the Todi proper.

A steep but not very difficult de-
scent, partly over loose stones, leads in
about II hr. (2 hrs. ascending) to the
Disentis Alp, where there are 2 or 3
chftlets, occupied only in the height of
summer. From the S. side of this
pasture the descent lies through the
beautiM glen of the 7a/i?o8tf»n,chiefiy
amongst pine-trees, overhung by
rugged rocks. In 8 hrs. from the
summit the path emerges on the road
from Ilanz to Disentis, close to a
wooden bridge across the stream from
the Val Bosein.

About 2 m. distant by the high-
road is Disentis. Inns: Krone (or
Post), comfortable, civil landlord;
Adler (or Rathhaus). (See Rte. 82.)

242 ROOtE 78. — StACHELBKRG TO BRIGELS. KlSTENGRAT. Sect. 1.

and slippery for us to attempt. We
crossed a his/her part of the mountain
by aid of the solitary foot-tracks of
some shepherd (made when the snow
was softer, as the guide said, in search
of some lost sheep), and which we
luckily discovered just at the steepest
part, where a slip would have carried
one down oyer a precipice of un-
known depth. The yiews of the dis-
tant Alps from the summit are very
fine, and the descent into the yalley
of the Yorder Rhine, near Brigels,
affords one continuous yiew of that
yalley from above Disentis, almost
to its junction with the valley of the
Hinter Rhine, and is also very fine;
but the expedition was hardly worth
the trouble and danger, although it
enabled me to see the upper part of
the Lint-Thai and the Pantenbriicke,
and the greater part of the valley of
the Yorder Rhine, without returning
on my footsteps. Much depends on
the season, the weather, and the state
of the snow; but it is at least 9 hrs.
from the baths of Stachelbeig to
Brigels, and one should start at -^
past 4, or at latest 5, o'clock in the
morning. The /tin at Brigels is
poor. The village itself was nearly
destroyed by fire a few years since,
and many of the houses are new. The
chalet on the Limem Alp is a little
out of Uie way, and it would save time
to carry refreshment and avoid it."

ROUTE 78.

STACHELBERa TO BBIOELS, OVER THE
KISTENGRAT.

'* After crossing the Pantenbriicke
(Rte. 74), which is nearly 2 hrs.* good
walking from the baths of Stachel-
berg, we path over the Elistengrat
turns rather sharply to the. 1., and
ascends tlirough pleasant woods and
green pasturages for a time. 2^ hrs.
from the Pantenbriicke, always rising,
brings you to the summit of the little
secluded nook in which the chalet
of the Limem Alpj the highest be-
longing to the Lint-thai, is Duilt It
consists of 3 miserable hovels pf loose
stones, one a piece for the cows, the
goats, and the men. This is sepa-
rated from the black precipitous face
of the Selbsanft Mountain by a deep
chasm, the bottom of which can
scarcely be seen from the edge. Here
a man and 2 boys, with 3 or 4 cows
and some goats, pass 3 months of the
year in seclusion, taking with them
their supply of flour and bread. After
quitting uie Limem Alp, there was no
semblance of a path, and the snow,which
in the middle of the da^ before had
been declared by the guide and pea-
santry to be quite impassable from its
softness, had become early in the
morning so hard and icy as to be
nearly mipassable in the steeper parts
from its slipperiness; so great is the
cUfierence made by a few hours. It
took us quite 5^ hrs. to go from the
chdlet on the Limem Alp to the vil-
lage of Brigels, and of these 3^ were
on the snow. We passed close by
the MUtten See, leaving it on our
left It was then a mass of snow and
ice, no water being visible. In a dif-
ferent state of the snow a path is
sometimes taken across a lower part
of the mountain, leaving the MUtten
See on the right, but it was too steep

Switzerland. KOurE 79. — richetli and segnes passes.

243

KOUTE 79.

GLA&US OR STACHELBEBG TO REI-
CHENAU BICHETLI AND 8EGN£S

As mentioned in Rte. 74, there are
two passes by which communication
is kept np between Glanis and the
▼alley of the Vorder Khein in the
Griaons. They are hoth most easily
approached by the char-road which
has been carried for 5 leagues up the
Sernft Thai as far as Elm. Pedes-
trians approaching from Stachelberg
will prefer the Richetli pass, which
leads in 7 hrs. from the Baths to Elm.
Aboat 3 m. above Glarns the valley
of the Linth divides into two branches.
Oat of the 1. or E. branch issues the
Senift : it is sometimes called Klein-
thai, to distiDguish it from the larger
W. branch, or Lint-thai.

About i way to Enghi (/nn), i*t.
there is rather a fine waterfall ; i h.
beyond this an isolated view of the
GErnisch, very noble. This mountain,
owing to its form and jposition, is one
ef the most striking in Switzerland,
>een from whatever side.

Matt, another village, stands on
the rt bank of the Semft, and at the
moath of the minor vale of the Krauch-
thal, up which runs a path to Sargans,
over the Riseten pass, 7 stunden.

The quarries in the Plattenberg, a
mountain of the grauwacke and clay-
slate, on the 1. side of the valley, op-
posite Matt, famish excellent slates
for roofing or for writing. Most of
the schools in Switzerland are supplied
from hence: and the slate was for-
meAj exported down the Rhine to
fiolland and the Indies. This slate
is well known to geologists for the
beantifnl and perfect casts of fossil
fish in -wliich it abounds. The lower
portion of the valley is unhealthy, as
may be learned from the occurrence
of goitre and cretinism (those afflicted
witii tb.e latter are here called Tolpel

—dolt, blockhead— § 18) ; but the in-
habitants of the upper extremity are
a fine and hardy race.

Elm. (Inns: a new inn, built in
1857, and kept by Jacob Elmer, is
comfortable, and the landlord atten-
tive; another inn, formerly well re-
commended, by the widow Freuler,
appears to have been given up.)

The route fh>m Stachelberg to
Elm crosses the Linth and ascends
a steep path on the rt. bank of the
Dwma Thai, At the head of that
valley the track, which is faintly
marlred, bears away to the 1., or nearly
due E., and reaches the summit of the
Richetli Pass in about 4 hrs. from the
Baths. The descent on the E. side
towards Elm is easy, and the track
pretty well marked, so that no guide
18 needed.

[From Elm there is a pass over the
Eamin Qrat to Sargans or Pfefiers.
The ascent is made in 4 hrs. by a very
rough path, impassable for horses.
The view from the summit is said to
be very fine. The descent into the
Weisstannen Thai is not easy to find
without a guide. To reach Sargans
that valley is followed from its head
to its lower extremity at Mels near
Sargans. In order to reach Pfefiers
it is necessary to turn to the S.E. after
passing the first ch&let in the Weiss-
tannen Thai, and to cross two ridges
into the Kalfeuser Thai, or valley of
the Tamina, which may be followed
to Pfefiers. This is a long day's walk
of fully ] 2 hrs., and a guide is indis-
pensable. At Vattis, in the Kalfeuser
Thai, there is a poor Inn^

The Segnes Pass from Elm to Flims
requires about 7 hrs. fair walking.
Heinrich Elmer is well spoken of as a
guide. The path crosses the Semf t just
above the village, and follows the S.E.
branch of that stream, fed by the snows
of the Ofen, until it reaches the point
where the stream coming from the
Segnes joins the former. The path
turns to the 1., and, after following
the second stream for a short distance,

244 ROUTE 80. — GLARUS TO ILANZ. PANIXER PASS. Sect 1*

begins to mount nearly dae E. over
pastures, and then over loose stones,
where all trace of path is lost, until it
approaches very near to a singular
hole, or natund tunnel through the
mountain, which is called the Martina-
loch, and through which on four days
in the year — March 4 and 5, and Sep-
tember 14 and 15 — ^the sun shines
upon the village ch. of Elm. This
orifice is nearly directly under the
peak of the Segnes Spttz, which is 800
or 900 ft. above it To the £. several
depressions are seen, over which a
way might probably be found into the
Kalfeuser Thai, but the Segnes Pass
(8612 Eng. ft.) is that nearest to the
Martinsloch. On the S. side of the
pass some steep rocks and slopes of
snow lead down to the Flimser Pirn, a
small nearly level glacier occupying
a hollow in the mountain, and resem-
bling a frozen lake. This is crossed
in a S.E. direction, and the rocks are
again reached on the E. side of a
stream that issues from the glacier.
Keeping at first to the 1. of a tract of
wet boggy ground, the track then de-
scends over pastures to Films, where
there is a rough inn. Better quarters
are found by pushing on about 6 m.
by the char-road to Beichenau {Inn :
Adler). (Rte. 82.)

ROUTE 80.

GLABUS TO ILANZ, BY THE PANIXER
PASS.

To approach this pass from Glarus
the char-road to Elm is followed
(see Rte. 79). In going from Stachel-
ber^ by the Richetli pass. Elm is
avoided, as the path to the Panixer
is met soon after descending the Ri-
chetli, near to the chftlets of Wicheln,
about 4 m. from Elm. But it would
be a hard day's work to accomplish
both passes, and no accommodation
would be found before reaching the
villa^ of Panix, fully 10 hrs. good
walkmg from the Baths. From Ebn
to Uanz is a walk of 8 hrs.

An hour and a quarter's walk from
Ebn brinfi^s the traveller almost to the
head of the W. branch of the Semffc
Thai, and in front of the opening to
the S., which leads to the Panixer
pass. The ascent of the pass occupies
2^ hours, and for the last two hours
the track is marked by poles. The
scenery is wild and desolate ; the
ground rises in stages, or, as it were,
in gigantic steps, forming open flats
borne up by great precipices. The
first of these flats, gained in f of an
hour from the Semft Thai, is the
wild Jazer Alp. Here are found the
last chalets.

The summit of the pass (7906 ft)
commands a very comprehensive view
over the southern mountains of the
Orisons, but is not remarkable^ ex-
cept for extent

The commencement of the descent
into the Orisons is marked by poles,
and turns towards the W. in the di-
rection of a larffe glacier fed by the
snow-fields of me Hausstock. I^e
traveller is then left at the edge of a
steep declivity^ to find his own way
down. Here it is necessary to turn
to the S., and descend the declivity,
loose, wet, and it may be said track-
less, in order to gain the path which
may be perceived on an Alp or
mountain-pasturage beneath. Before
reachin^^ this Alp, the stream, just
sprang m a consiaerable volume from

Swiizerland,

ROUTE 80. — ^THE PANIXEB PASS,

245

its glacier, must be waded through.

The way then lies for a time over the

lialf-barren surface of the Alp, which

is nised on immense precipices above

the lower valley of Fanix. The path

then lecrosses the stream (which runs

in a deep chasm, hardly a yard in

width, intersecting the alp), and then

ascends for some distance along the

&ce of the precipices on the E., pass-

iB^inone place along a shelf cut out

of the rock. There is no danj?er

winterer here in sununer; but atter

a iafi of snow the passage might not

bemntt^ded with peril.

The path now opens upon a wide
green pasturage, partially sloping
aown towards the S., and turning by
degrees, first £. and then N.E., so as
to doable round l^e head of the
nvine. The rest of the way to the
village of Pamx, where there is a
smau country 7fin, presents no great
diiEimlty, though some little embar-
rusment may be experienced in the
woods. Panix is a long 2 hours dis-
tant from the pass to which it gives
name. From nere it is well worth
while to look back upon the pass.
All approach seems so barred by
predpices that its accessibility would
be considered almost impossible.

Below Fanix there is a good path,
nmning at a great elevation above
die stream along the mountain-side,
and eventually emerging upon the
heights overlooking the valley of the
Vcrder Shein, which sweeps luongfar
beiow. The views of this valley, seen
on the descent, are of extraor^nary
beaoty. The path leads for a long
timt through pleasant fields and
woodland scenes, but at length de-
seeads more rapidly upon Buvis, im-
mediati^ below which village it falls
into the high road which conducts to
Baaib From Fanix to Ilanz (Bte. 82)
is a walk of 2 hours.

Suwarrow, after the almost lucre*

dible march detailed in Btes. 73,

7a, remained like a stag at bay fi)r

three or four days at Gmrus for the

purpose of resting his wearied troops,

thoQgli not a day was passed without

skirmishes more or less severe with

the enemj* At length, finding it

hopeless to attack a French force now
so greatly superior in numbers to his
own, he adopted the only remaining
alternative, of again leading his ex-
hausted and diminished followers over
the high crest of the Alps, in order
to rescue them from annihilation, and
enable him to unite himself with the
scattered fragments of the Bussian
army in the Grisons. He broke
up nrom his quarters on the 5th of
October. The lateness of the season,
the difiiculties of the passage, and
the vastly superior force pressing on
the heels of his dispirited sol(uers,
rendered this a far more hazardous
enterprise than that which he had
previously accomplished. The miser-
able path up the valley would barely
admit two men abreast: along this the
army painfully wound its way in single
file. The dimculty of the ascent was
^atly increased oy a fall of snow 2
feet deep; but, as though the hard-
ships of the way were not enough, the
indefatigable French, ascending the
opposite bank of the Semft, allowed
the Bussians no respite from their
harassing assaults. Numbers lay
down, exhausted from fatigue, to

Serish on the snow; many, slipping
own the insecure fragments of slate,
and along the rocks, polished by the
frost, were hurled over the precipices,
and crushed in the abyss below, while
the enemy's bullets were not slow in
further thinnine their ranks. After
five days of toil, and four nights of
little repose, since they were spent on
the bare surface of the snow and the
glaciers, where many men were frozen
to death, Suwarrow crossed the ridge
of Fanix, between 7000 and 8000 ft.
above the sea, and on the 10th of
October gained the valley of the Bhine
at Banz. Even on reaching the
descent into the Grisons, many
perished in attempting to cross the
fearful chasm of tne Araschka Alp.
For months the foul birds and beasts
of prey were gorged with their bodies,
and the bones of many a warrior are
still blanching in die crevices and
ravines of the Jatzer. Thus termi-
nated a march of 18 days' duration,
perhaps the most extraordinary ever

246

BOUTE 82.-- GOIHE TO ANDERMATT.

Sect. X.

performed by an army, ineessantly en-
gaged, fighting a battle almost every
day, and obUged to traverse a country
unknown, and completely destitute of
resources. This remarkable retreat
was accomplished with the loss of all
his artillery, the greater part of the
beasts of burden, and one-third of his
men.

ROUTE 82.

COIBE, UP THE VALLEY OP THE VORDER
RHEIN, TO DISENTIS, AND ACROSS THE
OBERALP TO ANDERMATT.

Stonden. Kng.m.

Reichenan . .

..2 = 6

Ilanz . . ,

, . . 4* = 14

Tnms . . ,

. . . 4 = 12

Diaentis . .

. . . 2»= 74

Andermatt . ,

• •

Carriage-road to Andermatt com-
pleted 1866; hilly, and not very good.
Diligence daily in 10 hrs. to Disentis;
13 hrs. to Anaermatt. The ascent of
the Oberalp on the Orison side is
rather rough : thence to Andermatt
in good order. Best Inns, Banz and
Disentis.

It is scarcely possible to walk from
Beichenau to Andermatt in less than
2 days. As far as Disentis the
scenery is varied and most pictu-
resque; in parts very fine, not un-
like Deeside in Scotland. Thence to
Andermatt is chiefly over open Alpine
pasturagesr The number of small

castles on heights above the KbiAe
Is remarkable; ^ is as much the cas-
tellated Rhine here as below Mayence.
The g^eat post-road from Coire
(Rte. 87), up the valley of the Rhine,
is followed as far as

6 m. Beichenau — Inn : Adler (Rte.
87)— where the wBters of the Vorder
and Hinter Rhein imite.

The new road strikes up the side of
the hUls on the 1. bank of the Rhine,
to the village of Tamins, directly over
Reichenau. Hence the traveller enjoys
a beautiful view up both valleys of
the Rhine. The entrance of that of
Hinter-Rhein, up which runs the road
to the Spliigen, is guarded by tlie
casde of Rsezuns, backed by villages
and church-towers without number.
Beyond linns our road turns aside
from the Rhine, and bends round a
little monticule rising by a consider-
able and steep ascent into a small"
sequestered upland basin, in the midst
of which lies

7 m. Flims (Rom. Flem.) — ^Adler,
Foste, rough— a village 3360 ft above
the sea, named from the number of
sources around it, ad flumina, [Here
the path to Glarus, by the S6gp[ies
pass (Rte. 79), strikes off to Wkld-
nauser, a rustic inn, in f m 3 Ajfter
continuing some time out of sight
of the Rhine, we join it again aner
a steep descent, about 3 miles be-
yond Lax. Pedestrians should in-
quire for a foot-path which cuts ofif
the greater part of the detour involved
by passing through Flims.

7 m. Hanz (in Romansch, Glion, or
Ilon).^/nns; Oberalp, on rt. bank,
best; Post, or Zum Lukmanier; — ^both
above the average.) JXka% is the-
only place in the valTey deserving
the name of town, and is the capital
of the Graue Bund, or Grey Lea^g^e.
Its 668 Inhab. speak Romansch, and
this dialect prevails in a large por-
tion of the valley. This place is
magnificently situated astride the
Rhine, here crossed by a wood^i
bridge. The environs abound in charm-
ing walks and splendid views; ruins of

Switzerland.

ROUTE 82. — ^TRUNS. GREY LEAGUE.

247

Giuieck, ECllstris, &c. Many fine old
lioiiaes, in a state of dilapidation,
iTOTe it was once the abode of noble
unifies. There is a •grand panoramic
yvem from the Piz Mtmdaun, S.W. of
the town, 6929 ft.

[The Pass of the Valserberg to
Splogea is described Kte. 89. The
Panixer pass to Glams is described
Bte.80.

'Fnm Qanz to Tusis is a day's walk
of 10 or 11 hrs. bj the rt bank of the
Vorder Bhein and the Sayien Thai
(Bte.90). Scarcelyany route could re-
pay the traTeller better than this; but
the path is not always good. There
is ako a pass to Olivone, in the Val
Bhgao (Rte. 86).]

At Rnis, 2f m. beyond Sanz, the
Pftoixer pass diverges, the scene of
Snwarrow's retreat (Rte. 81).

5 m. Rhine is crossed to Tavanasa,
sod

4 m. is recrossed thence.

1 m. TruTis (Bom., Tron) — (Inn:
Krone, "not well reputed") — a village
ia a singularly, beautiful situation, at a
litdedistanee from the Rhine. Its 800
Inhab. are Horn. Catholics, and speak
Bomansch. Abandoned iron-works in
tkeiieinity. Truns is chiefly remark-
ible, however, as the cradle of liberty
unoBg the Bhcetian Alps. Beneath
the shade <^ the neighbouring forest
the peasants met at the beginning of
tibe 15tb century, to concert plans for
hbenrtjng themselves and their chil-
dren from the oppression and slavery
<»f their feudal lords, three or four of
whose castles, now in ruins, may still
be seen frowning down from the
neishbooring crags.

Near the entrance of the village, on
the side of Danz, stands the decayed
but venerated fragment of a Syca"
more (Acer Pseudoplatanus ; German,
Aborn), now 6 or 7 centuries old, a
mere trunk, cloven and hollow, be-
neath whose once-spreading branches
the deputies of the peasants met the
Aohles who were favourable to their
cause, in March, 1424, and took the
oath, of fidelity to one another, and to
their free constitution then esta«

blished. According to tradition this
remarkable oath was administered
by the Abbot of Disentis. The
confederates swore **to be and to
continue good and true friends ; to
hold together in war and in peace ;
to maintain each man his own rights
by law, and not by the strong hand;
to withstand all lawless violence; and
to punish the unruly who will not
obey the sentence of the law." Such
is the origin of the Gret League,
Graue Bund (Rte. 66), so called from
the grey beards or the grey home-
spun garb of the venerable assembly.
A vigorous young shoot has sprouted
forth from the hollow trunk, and is
protected by a raiMng. Close to the
sycamore tree stands the little Chapel
of St Anne, whose portico is adorned
with Bible texts, ** Li libertatem vocati
estis;" "Ubi Spiritus Domini, ibi Li-
bertas;" "In te speravernnt Fatres;"
&c., and with two fresco paintings.
One represents the first formation of
the League, the principal figures being
the Abbot of Disentis, in 3ie robes of
his order; the Count of Sax, with a
white flowing beard; and the lord of
Rhoetzuns. The other picture shows
the renewal of the oath in 1778: the
deputies here appear with starched
firiils, and hair powdered and frizzled;
in silk stockings and walking-sticks.
It is recorded that the deputies on the
former occasion brought their dinners
in sacks on their backs, which they
hung up by nails to the rocks, while
they quenched their thirst in the
brook which traverses the meadow
of Tavanasa. The more courtier-like
deputies of the second meeting were
more sumptuously feasted in the man-
sion of the Abbot. In the so-called
Jittter'saal, a building belonging to
the Abbey of Disentis, the arms of all
the magistrates since 1424 are painted
on the walls.

The inhabitants of the upper part
of the valley, about Disentis, are
Roman Catholics, as will become ap-
parent from the increased number of
churches and crosses. The mountains
which bound it chan^ from lime-
stone to primitive rocks, and give a
different ^aracter to its scenery.

248

HOUTE 82. — DISBNTIS.

Sect. I.

Opposite Somvix (Rom. Sumvig;
Lat. Summus-vicus), abounding in
(Sherry-trees, the vaUey of that name
opens out; through it is a path to
Cuivone by the Oreina pass. A
wooden bridge, 16 J ft. hi^, 210 ft.
long, carries the road over the Busein-
TobeL

7^ Dtamtis (/nfU: H. Condrau,
very good, best situation; Krone;
Adler, same iMidlord as H. Condrau;
H. Berther). 5^ frs. board and lodg-
ing a-day. Game plentiful. The
Benedictine Abbey of X)isentis (Rom.
Mustar; Lat Monasterium) is one
of the oldest ecclesiastical establish-
ments in Switzerland, founded, it
is said, by the Scotch monk Sieg-
bert, a companion of St Gall, and
was the nucleus of early civilization
in this wild and remote country.
It stands on an elevated terrace,
3700 ft. above the sea-level, with
a small village clustered round its
base, and near the head of a rather
long ascent It is protected by a
forest above it from falling avalanches,
on the L bank of the Vorder-Rhine,
at the junction of the two Alpine
torrents which unite in forming that
river. The Abbey has twice been
burned down in modern times, first in
1799, when the French invaders burnt
it, and along with it the library formed
in the 7 th and 8th centuries. The
abbe^, again burnt in 1846, but
rebuilt, and now used as a school
for the Canton, has an imposing
appearance, from its size and posi-
tion, towering above the humble
hovels of the village below, as its rich
and powerful abbots, in the middle
ages, lorded it over their vassals. They
were, at one time, firm allies of the
House of Habsburg, and the abbot
and his banner occupied the van at
the battle of Morgarten. At a later
period, however, 1424, Abbot Peter of
Pontaningen was one of the founders
of Grison liberty, who met under the
sycamore at Truns.

A newspaper is published here in
the Romansch dialect

There is a path hence up the Me-
delser Thai to Santa Maria, and

thence over the Lakmaaier to Belliii-
zona (Rte. 85) ; a *Jnd, over Uie Uomo
Pass and down the Val Piora to Airolo,
10^ hrs. (Rte. 84) ; a 3rd, difficult
and dangerous, runs N. over the Dodi-
Grat, by the Sandalp, to the Baths of
Stachelberg (Rte. 77); a 4th, by the
Ereutzli Pass and Maderaner Thai
(Rte. 83) to Amsteg, 10 hours* good
walking.

Jean Baptiste Monn is recommended
as a guide.

A Railway through the ridge of the
Lukmanier has been surveyed.

Disentis is a convenient station for
travellers bent on exploring these and
other passes. The charge is rather
hiffh for very poor cattle, viz. 1 1 frs.
a-day for each horse, with a bonnemain
of 1 fr. a-day to each of the guides.
But in summer time the horses are
sent up to the High Alps to carry
hay, &c., and require to be fetched a
long distance. If required for several
days a less price will be taken.

The new road from Disentis up to the
Oberalp leaves the Medelser Thai on
the 1., and ascends the vale of Tavetsch
by the L bank of the yorder-Rhine,
now reduced in breadth and volume
to a mountain-torrent

5 Sedrun, or Tavetsch (fnn: Krone,
good), the chief place in the valley.

2 Rwzras (Rom. St Giacomo) (/im,
Oberalp). On a bill nearly sur-
rounded by the Rhine stand the
ruins of the Castle of Pultmenga or
Pontaningen.

Above Ruaras a narrow gorge leads
out of the lower into an upper valley.
This part of it is dreadfully exposed
to avalanches. In 1.808 one fell from
the Ruenatsch upon the village of
Selva, and killed 42 human beings and
237 head of cattle.

The carriage-road is carried through
Tschiamot

Tschiamot the last village in the
Tavetsch deserving that name, and pro-
vided with a church; it is 5000 ft
above the sea. The valley of Ta-
vetsch is the cradle of the Vorder-
Rhine: it is supplied from 3 branches,
having their source In the vast moun^

Switzerland, route 82. — ob£RALF. 83. — ^the kbeuzli.

249

tuns and glaciers which wall in its
ii]pp6r extremiij; the Crispalt^ on the
B. side, the Sexmadan (Cima de Ba-
diis),«iid the Comare. At Tschiamot
one of the branches is crossed, after
which, a^u to the Bhine.

The new carriage-road, adopting
a line more safe from avalanches than
the oldsammer path, ascends the Val
Snrpalix by ten sweeping zigzags, and,
crossing the boundary of Canton Uri,
attains

T^eStamit of tfie Pass, 7 172 ft. above
theses.

On reaching the opposite declivity,
a smaQ lake, mmed for its trout, lies
at the foot of the traveller. This is
the Oberalp See^ one of the head- waters
of the Reuss: it is beset with bogs.
This spot was the scene of a hard
struggle between the French and
Anstnans in 1799. The road skirts
along the K. side of the lake. The
rale of Urseren, with Hospital in
the distance, and the house on the
Fnrea, now open out to yiew, and a
long descent hy well-drawn zigzags,
'which may be much abridged by the
pe^trian, first through a naked
Talley of pastures, and then down an
trdaous and broken declivity, brings
the traveller to

Andcrmatt (Christin's Inn, good),
on the St. Gothard (Rte. 34). To
walk hence to Disentis will require
7 hrs; to drive 3 J hrs. ; to the Col
sboiit2^hrs.

ROUTE 83.

AMSTEO TO DISENTIS, BY THE PASS
OF THE KBEUZLI.

This Pass requires from 10 to 11
hrs., and should not be tried without a
guide. Jos. Maria Trosch and Am-
brose Zgraggen, of Silenen, are good
guides.

" The path runs at starting up the
Madei-aner Thai, on the 1. bank of the
Kerstlenbach, which joins the Reuss
at Amsteg. For a few minutes it is
by its side : the ascent to gain the
level of the fields above the closing
gorge then commences, and continues
for about J hr. through the forest.
The valley behind the gorge is thus
entered and followed up ; the chapel
of St« Antony and little hamlet of
Bristen are passed, and a little fur-
ther on the river is crossed (40 mm.
from Amsteg), and recrossed 10 min.
afterwards. An hr. after leaving Am-
steg the stream from the Ezli Thai
is crossed. This valley leads to the
Kreuzli, and the Maderan Thai is
now left. A considerable ascent is
necessary to get into the Ezli Thai,
as the path has to mount above the
head of a high fall. The first bridge
over its stream, above the fall, is
not crossed, but the three following
are. Soon after crossing the third of
these bridges (about 2 hrs. from Am-

M 3

250

BOUTE 83. — ^AMSTEG TO DISENTIS. THE KREUZLI. Sect I.

steg), the last trees are passed, and
the path mounts continually for nearly
anower couple of hours along the W.
flank of a naked desolate ravine. It
skirts on its way, in the bed of the
stream, the remains of an immense
avalanche which fell 1849 — a mass
of snow, dirt, and fallen rocks, pro-
bably 4 a mile lone. Beside it
stands a cross with tne date 1834.
A small marshy basin succeeds the
ravine, the valley' here changing
its direction from S. to W. At this
basin the way to the Kreuzli quits the
valley, passing the river and ascend-
ing tne eastern mountains. There is
a bridge; the track is not perceptible
in the neighbourhood of the river,
though it soon reappears during the
subsequent ascent.

" It is well worth while to follow up
the valley for half a mile or a mile
above the basin just mentioned, in-
stead of immediately leaving it for the
pass. The river is pursued towards
the W., till it is lost in a short defile
beneath the snow, with which the bed
of the narrow passage is choked up.
A multitude of gigantic blocks, heaped
one above another, form one side of
this cleft in the mountains. The snow
affords good walking, and the defile
soon gives admittance into a large
hollow of the highest savage cha-
racter. It is utterly sterile and un-
inhabited ; a mere receptacle for fallen
rocks and snow. The glaciers of the
Crispalt sweep down upon it ; craggy
mountains of the boldest elevation
girdle it in; their splintered summits
rise on all sides high into the sky.
To visit this spot in the journey over
the Kreuzli would not increase the
duration of the day's .walk by much
more than half an hour.

**The track which leads to the
Kreuzli pass, after the marshy basin
is left and the river crossed, continues
to ascend towards the E. up an uneven
slope, until it reaches the opening of
a kind of high, short valley, by pur-
suing which the summit is to oe gained.
From this point there is an unexpected
view of the bay oi Uri, and of the
plain at the entrance ot the Beuss into
the lake. The last %aQent to the

Elreuzli is gentle but rough, the ground
being covered with loose blocks,
alternating with patches of snow.
The track only appears at intervals,
generaDy upon the snow ; biit the
course of the little valley is in itself
a sufficient guide. The crest of the
pass, marked by a pole, is reached
in 5 hrs. direct from Amsteg, or 6^
allowing halts to enjoy the view, ana
has an elevation of 7710 feet above
the sea.

** The views from the Ejreuzli are on
both sides of an extremely savage
nature, amongst the neighbouring
mountains and glaciers. There is
also an extensive view, looking down
the valley, of the snowy mountains
between the Orisons and the canton
Ticino.

** It is a bad descent into the valley
of Strim down a steep declivity, broken
by numbers of jutting crags. Occa-
sional goat-tracKS supply the place of
a reguUur path. Neither is the track
down the valley — when its bed is at-
tained, and the ice-cold river, just
sprung from its glaciers, crossed —
anything like a good path. It requires
two long and rather fatiguing hours
from the summit of the pass to reach
the village of Sedrun or Tavetsch in
the valley of the Fore Rhine. The
valley of Strim is uninhabited, and its
nakedness is not relieved by, a single
tree, not even a stunted fir. From
Sedrun to Disentis down the valley of
the Fore Rhine is an easy walk of 2
hrs. (See Rte. 82.)

Switzerkmd, R. 84, 85. — ^DisEims to airolo and oliyone. 251

slopes of the mountAins, passing
through the village of Madrano.
Here the opening of the Val Caaaria
breaks the side of the chain : the path
descends, crosses the stream issuing
from it, and falls into the St. GothaiS
rottd a little below Airolo."— B. E.

ROUTE 84.

DISSSTIS TO AIBOLO, BT THS UOMO

PASS. (11 hrs.). •

*'As fiur as the hosjHce of Santi^
Maria, 5 leagues from Disentis, the
waj to this pass is the same as that to
the Lnkmanier. (Bte. 85.^ A little
tribntirj valley of the Medelser Thai
opens from the S.W. into the plain of
^ta llkria, and leads to the Uomo
pass. The path ascends from the plain
OB the rt. bank of the stream which
vsten this valley. There is no diffi-
cult j on the ascent, which is rapid and
ooDtinaoos. The valley is narrow and
barren, and presents nothing remark-
able. The summit of the pass is
reached easily in an hour and a half
from Santa Maria. Its heieht is 7160
ft. ; the ground is flat and boggy, and
not adapted for a path : it is ac-
cordingly traced along a gentle slope
on the 8. edge of the marsh, where
there are one or two rude chalets.

" The descent is scarcely begun before
a oommaBding view of the knot of the
St Grothard Alps opens out in front
aboTe the lesser mountains. The pas-
tores, or ' Alp ' of Piora, down which
the path lies, produce a cheese of con-
siderable repute in the canton. The
descent is at first rapid, but then
reaches a little plain and lake, and
then the lake of Ritam, The descent
from the lake is abrupt and long, the
river forming in quick succession three
▼ery fine falls.

''After passing the third fall, the path
is fiiirly out of the Val Flora, and on
the flanks of the Val Leventina, having
been throughout, during the descent
troBk the pass, on the rt. bank of the
stream, wnich it now abandons. The
rest of tbe way to Airolo is very inte-
resting. The Val Leventina and the
St. Gotbard road are left far beneath,
and the path continues high on the

ROUTE 85.

PASS OP THE LUKMANIKR — DISENTIS
TO OLIVONE IN THE VAL BLEGKO.*

10 hrs.

A path, much frequented in sum-
mer, and practicable throughout on
horseback, though very steep towards
its two extremities. It is a long and
not verv interesting pass, but has
acquired importance n'om the com-
parative facilities it offers for the
construction of a Railway with tun-
nels through the Alps — so as to con-
nect Switzerland, W. France, and
South Germany, with Sardinia, Lom-
bardy, and the cities of Milan, Turin,
and Genoa. A succession of long and
comparatively level valleys on either
side of the pass have caused it to be
surveyed for the construction of a
Railway^ and it is practicable by means
of a tunnel 15 m. long, which is to
enter the mountain at Ferdatsch and
to emerge at Camps in Val Blegno.

The valley of Medels, up which this
route lies as far as Sta. Maria, runs
in a direction nearly due S. ft^om
Disentis, and is traversed through its
whole length by the Middle Rhine,
The entrance to it is by a rooky and
wooded gorge, about 2 m. from Di-

252

ROUTE 85. — ^PASS OP THE LUKMANIER.

Sect I.

sentis, called Conflons, because the
Vorder and Mittel-Rfaein unite in it.
In the midst of it the Rhine forms two
cascades, and beyond it the val-
lev opens out into a wide basin, lined
with pastures and forests, in the re-
moter parts of which the bear is still
found, while the chamois abounds on
the granite peaks forming the highest
sunmiits or the surrounding Alps.
The path scales the steep and
craggy ridge to the rt. of the gorge,
of which it affords but a very imper-
fect view, and then descends into the
valley, opposite Curaglia, a yiUaee on
the rt. bank of the li. Rhine, puiced
just above the influx of the torrent
which descends from the Medelser
Gletscher. A little further up the
Rhine is crossed to

Platta (accommodation at the
Curb's), the principal place in the
Medelser ThaJL In 1 hr. more, pass-
ing through the hamlet St. Rocco,
a spot is reached, whence, looking
back, the view of the Dodi is superb.'
^ hr. higher is Perddtsch — situated
at the opening of the Yal Cristal-
Una, which runs in a S.£. direction,
and sends forth one branch of the
Middle Rhine. It is celebrated for
its rock-crystals, out of which the
shrine of St. Carlo Borromeo, in the
Duomo of Milan, was formed. The
ascent here becomes more rapid, -and
the scenery wilder and finer. Huge
rocks are jumbled about. Below Per-
datsch the Mittel-Rhein plunges, in a
fall 100 ft. high, into a deep gulf. The
little hospices of St. John and St. Gall,
each with its warning bell, are passed,
and, in about 5 hrs. from Disentis, Sta.
Maria is reached. Here a stream de-
scends from the W. out of the Lake
Dim, at the end of the Yal Cadelina;
and another issues from the foot of
the Monte Scuro.

Sta, Maria is a hospice kept up for
the benefit of travellers, and, though
very wretched in appearance, the tra-
yeller may procure tolerable accom-
modation for horse and man.

•} hr's. walk above Sta. Maria brings
you to the culminating point of the
Pass of the Lukmanier (in Latin,
Mons Lttcumonius ; in Romansch,

Lukmajn, or Culm Sta. Maria), 6340
ft. above the sea.

It is said that the army of Pepin
passed this way, a.d. 754, on his in-
vasion of Italy. Poles, stuck into the
rocks, mark the direction of the path
across the CoL A hofse-path over
the Uomo Pass (Rte. 84) branches
off from the hospice to Airolo, through
the Val Termini, or Val Fomo, the
Yal Piora, by AJtanca, Brugnasco, and
Madrano.

A cross on the summit of the Luk-
manier marks the boundary of Uie
Orisons and Canton Tessin. Hence
the path to Olivone and the Yal
Blegno descends the Alpine Yal Ca-
saccia, in 1 hr. to

The Hospice of Casaccia; and, a
few miles lower, to that of

CamperiOf both founded, it is said,
by St. Carlo Borromeo, for the re-
ception of travellers.

The first glimpse of the spires and
plain of

Olivone, from the wooded steeps of
the Lukmanier, is very striking, the
descent to it beautiful, and the village
itself is one of the most charming
spots in the Alps. The small /m» of
Stefano Bella is comfortable, though
of no inviting exterior, and rather
high-priced. Diligence to Biasca.

Olivone is the highest village in the
Yal Blegno, and stands at the point
where the lateral valley of Casaccia
joins it ; it has about 740 Inhab.

The Yal Blegno (Germ. Polenzer-
thal) is traversed by the stream of the
Brenno, which enters it from a narrow
cleft in the mountain; and a tolerable
char-road, in part carriaee-road, has
recently been formed along the 1.
bank of the stream, from Ouvone to
Biasca, on the route of the St. Goth-
ard (Rte. 34), a distance of 14 m.
All the valley on the W. is very
beautiful.

Many of the chocolate-sellers and
chestnut-roasters, who swarm in the
streets of the cities of Italy, come
from the Yal Blegno.

^asca, on the St. Gothard road.

Saitzarland,

ROUTE 86. — ILANZ TO OLIVONE.

263

BOUTE 86.

lUXZTO OLTVONE IN THE VAL BLEGNO,
BTTHE PASSES OP THE DISRUT AND

GEEIIA.

This route (14 hrs.) leads S. from
Ilmnpthe Lvgnetz Thai, a beautiful
^7,eontracted at its opening into
tberallej of the Bhine to a mere
<l^as&r as Kumbels (1^ hr. from
Bui). A little farther up the vaJlev
divides; the E. branch, the St Peter s
Thai, leads to the pass of the Valser-
fcog (Bte. 89); the W. branch, or
Tna Thai, leading to the Yal Blegno.
Setr the junction are the Baths of
PcideD, where tolerably good accom-
aodition may be had. The road to the
Bisrat, after learing Kumbels, passes
fvarery long time over an elevated
ud extensive tract of open fields,
<iottidwith several villages and ham*
lets, and commanding a view up the
tta valley as far as the pass of the
Val9eri)erg. At length tne narrow

rTalley of Vrin is entered, and,
erossing a deep ravine, the vil-
^eof Vrm, which gives its name to
wfrialley, is reached (5 hrs. from
^)l The cure here will give
l«igiiff to travellers.

C^kaving Vrin the path descends

to and crosses the river, which it

i^rosses almost directly afterwards.

The last hamlet is Buzasch (1^ hr.

from Vrin). From Buzasch to the

soiDfflit of the Disrut is an ascent of

nearly 2 hrs. For the first hour there

is a path marked ; the rest of the way

may be called pathless. By a gap, in

which snow lies, is at last attained,

not the crest of the Disrut, but the

narrow edffe of the sharply serrated
ridge which divides the nollow lead-
ing down to Buzasch from another
leading down to Camps. The edse
of this ridge is gained dose to the
point where it diverges from the chain
which separates the valleys of Somvix
and Vrin. The ascent from here to
the Disrut is difficult but short (about
^ of an hour). Immediately on the
left is seen a shallow gully partly
filled with snow, the si&s of which
are composed of small loose fragments
of rock. The head of this gully is
the pass of the Disrut. When the sur-
face of the snow is too hard and steep
to be practicable, it is necessary to
make one's way as well as possible
up the loose rocks and stones, which
slip away beneath the feet. The
summit of the Disrut (7280 ft.) is
thus gained, 8^ hrs. after leaving
Ilanz. The view of rugged mountains
from the point is exceedingly fine.

From this point there is a very
bad descent into a plain below (the
ascent must be extremely difficult).
After a short ^-hr. of what cannot be
called walking, but rather scrambling
and slipping, down a crumbling de«
clivity and a bed of snow lying in the
depths of a rift, the highest part of
the great plain is reached. Right
above the nead, but just at a safe
distance, a glacier is seen pushing
itself forward to the edge of a preci-
pice, and strewing the ground at its
foot, almost close to the passer by,
with heaps of fragments of ice.

The ascent to the Greina (6520 ft)
is all but nominal. The Greina is in
fact merely the western edge of this
long plain. The descenton the other
side into the Val Kamadra, the highest
part of the Val Blegno, is rather diffi-
cult. After crossing a wet stony flat,
it is requisite to ascend the right hand
of the two spurs into which the broken
ridge is spht, and then to make a very
steep descent among stones and blocks
of rock into the head of the valley,
which is gained in about half an hour
after leavmg the summit of the Greina.
The head of the Val Kamadra is par-
tially occupied by a great bed of snow,
and is overhung on Uie W. by the vast

254

EOUTE 87.— ^COIRE TO CHIAVENNA.

Sect. L

Kamadra glacier, a portion of the
same field of ice to which the Medelser
glacier belongs. Once in the head of
the Val Kamadra all the difficulties
of the passage are surmounted. The
rest of the way to Olivone is suffi-
ciently easy, but wiU occupy full
3 hrs. more. It is advisable to manage
to reach Olivone by daylight, as there
is a ravine between Ghirone and Oli-
vone, where the path skirts the edge
of unguarded precipices, which makes
the way rather awkward after nig-ht-
fall.

The Greina may also be passed
either from Somvix or Trons in the
Orisons by following up the valley of
Somvix. From Olivone downwards
there is a carriage-road through the
Val Blegno (Rte. 85).

ROUTE 87.

COIRE TO CHIAVENNA — ^THE VIA MALA
— PASS OF THE SPLiJGEN.

8 J posts = 73 miles.

Coire.

Posts. Eng. m

Tusis . . .

. 2 = 18

Andeer . • .

,.1 = 9

Splttgen . . ,
Campodoldno ,
Chiavenna . .

. . U = 11
. 2f = 241
. li = 10

In posting to Chiavenna, travellers
are enabled to take the same post-
carriage through the whole distance.
The supply of post-horses is some-
times insufficient.

An extra horse must be taken in
the ascent from Tusis or Chiavenna
to the summit.

Diligences twice daily in summer
by the Splugen to Como and Milan,
and over the Bemardin ; but by the
diligence one side or the other will be
passed in the night. The road is ex-
cellent all the way. It is a drive of
about 7 hrs., posting, from Coire to

Spliigen, and about 4^ hrs. from Splli-
gen to Coire; 6 hrs. by diligence or
posting from Splugen to Chiavenna.
Persons starting by the first steamer
from Friedrichshafen, and taking the
train at Rorschach, may now reach
Coire in time for the 2nd diligence,
which runs throughout the summer
months, and so reach Chiavenna
about 12 at night on the 3rd day from
London.

From Coire (Rte. 67) to Reich-
enau there is not much deserving no-
tice in the scenery of the valley of
the Rhine; but the mountain Ga-
lanchf on its 1. bank, is a Tconspicuous
object ; and on the same side of the
Rhine, the village of Felsberg, partly
buried by a slip from threatening
rocks above it. The road runs tdong
a nearly level bottom as far as

Beichenau — (/wn, Adler ^Aigle), for-
merly a convent, good and moderate ;
a pleasant garden)— a group of houses
situated at the junction of the two
Rhines, Vorder and Hinter Rhine, both
crossed by covered wooden bridges.
The handsome whitewashed Chateau^
with garden, a seat of the Planta
family, at the end of the last cent, was
converted into a school by the burgo-
master Tschamer. In 1793 a young
man calling himself Chabot arrived
here on foot, with a stick in his hand
and a bundle on his back. He pre-
seuted a letter of introduction to M.
Jost, the head master, in consequence
of which he was appointed usher ; and
for 8 months gave lessons in French,
mathematics, and history. This for-
lorn stranger was no other than Louis
Philippe, late King of the French,
then Duke de Chartres, who had been
forced, by the march of the French
army, to quit Bremgarten, and seek
concealment here in the performance
of the humble duties of a school-
master. His secret was known only
to M. Jost. His cheerful room is stiU
pointed out, and 2 paintings — scenes
from his own life— presented while
he was King. The house contains 3
pictures by Winterhalter, presented
by Louis Philippe to M. Planta. and

Switzerland. bout£ 87. — ^reighknau. domleschg. tusis.

255

lereral other memorials of the late
Eoyal Family of France. [The Kunkeis
Ps8& to Bagatz (Boute 66d).]

At'BeicheDaa the road is carried
first oirw the united Rhine and then
ov«r the Vorder Bhein (Bte. 82) by
eoveied vooden bridges, each of one
fine sidt The lower bridge is 237 ft.
long sad 80 fL above the river. The
more abondant waters of the Hinter
Bhein eoming from the Bemardin and
the foot of Mount Adula are of dirty
bine; whila those of the Vorder Bhein,
rising m the glaciers of the Crispalt
and Lokmanier, are observed to be of
a vfaitiah grey tint.

The road to the Spliigen follows
the eoorae of the Hinter-Rhein. On
the top of a commanding rock on the
I. buk of the Rhine, and approached
bj a long bridge, rises the Castle of
Rhcetnms (Rhoetia ima): it is still in-
hshited.

This part of the Bheinthal, called
the valley of Domleschg (Vallis To-
miiiasca), is particularly remarkable
for the number of castles (21) which
erown almost every rock or knoll
on either side of the river, mostly
in rains, sometimes standing out
boldly from a dark background of
forest, at others so identified by
decay, by the weather tints, and by
thehchen growth, with the apparently
inaoeessible rocks on which they
stand, as barely to be distinguished.
Thar picturesque donjons and battle-
meats contribute not a little to en-
hance the charms of the landscape;
thi^ierve at the same time as his-
toneal monuments to commemorate
the revolution by which the power of
a ^laanical feudal aristocracy, the
lords of these fastnesses, was broken,
and their strongholds burnt by the
peasants of this valley, whom they
nad kn^ oppressed.

Another peculiarity of this district
is the intricate intermixture of lan-
gitage and religion. There are scarcely
twQ adjoining parishes, or even ham-
lets, speaking the same tongue and
professing the same faith. Thus t^\
Coire German is the prevailing Ian?
gaage* «a4 l^^stant the r^Ugioii of

the majority; at Ems, the first village
on the road, Bomansch (Bte. 66) is
spoken. Tamins and Beichenau are
Catholic and German; Bonaduz, di-
vided from them by the Bhine, is
Catholic, and speaks Bomansch.
Bhcetzuns and Katzis are two Boman
Catholic villages ; but in Uie first the
language is German, in the second
Bomansch. The inhabitants of Hein-
zenberg and Tusis, are Protestant
and German; of Zillis and through-
out the valley of Sohams, Protestant
and Bomansch. Spliieen and Hinter
Bhein form the boundary at once of
the Bomansch language and Pro-
testant religion.

The castle of Ortenstem^ on the rt.
bank of the Bhine, is one of the finest
and best preserved in the valley: it is
still inhabited by the Travers mmily.

Near the village of Katzis a beau-
tiful view opens out, on the opposite
side of the Bhine, up the valley of Ober-
halbstein.

The Bhine valley hereabouts exhi-
bits dismal traces of the ravages pro-
duced by the torrent Nolla, which,
rising at the base of the Piz Beveren,
on the W. of our route, joins the
Bhine nearly at right angles to the
direction of the course of that river.
It at all times poUutes the waters of
the Bhine with its mud, and is subject
to very sudden swells after rain, when
it rusnes down, tearing up the rocks
and carrying along with it heaps of
stone, mud, and gravel, which not
only overspread its own banks, but
frequently block up the bed of the
Bhine and cause desolating inunda-
tions. Thus a district, previously
fertile and beautiful, has been trans-
formed since 1807 into a desert, and
its fields either buried under stony
rubbish or converted into marsh. The
evil has been annually increasing for
several years past, but hopes are en-
tertained of arresting it and recover-
ing the land. With this view, exten-
sive d^kes are being constructed along
the banks of the Bhine.

Ihisis {Inns : ♦H. de la Via Mala, very
good ;— Aigle d*Or , Post^, good)-~a

256

ROUTE 87. — TU81S. SCHYN PASS. VIA MALA. Sect. T.

village of 670 Inhab., finely situated
on a terrace at the mouth of the Via
Mala gorge. Tusis, according to
some, is only the word Tusciat the
country of the Tuscans, who first
colonized these yalleys, changed in
the Bomansch dialect Tusis was
almost entirely destroyed by fire in
1845, and is now a street of new houses.
Immediately beyond Tusis the
muddy stream of the Nolla, flowing
through a waste of d^ris, is crossed
by a handsome bridge. On the rt.,
at the end of the vaUey, appears the
peak of the Fiz Beveren.

[Opposite Tusis the Albula enters
the Rhine from the S.E., through the
Schyii Passy strongly resembling the
Via Mala. Passing Sils, a road follows
either bank of the stream ; the 1. is the
hottest, the rt. is the finest. ' By the
latter, 2J hr. Untermutlen, ^ hr. Solis.
Thence over the Solisbriicke, some
1500 ft. above the Albula river, to Jhr.
Obervatz (whence a rough char-road
to Chur); or 1 hr. to Tiefenkasten,
on the carriage-road between Coire
and the Engadme (Rte. 92-93).]

Above Tusis the valley of the
Rhine seems closed up by the moun-
tains; it is only on a nearer approach
that the eye discovers the opening of
that singular chasm which has cleft
them through, affording a passage for
the river, and in modem times, by
artificial means, for the road. The
1. or E. side of this colossal portal is
guarded by the castle of i?0a/^ (Rhsetia
Alta), standing in the fork between
the Albula and the Rhine, and from
its lofty platform, 400 ft. high, looking
down upon both valleys. It is ac-
cessible only from the E., and by
crossing the Rhine; on all other sides
the rock is a precipice. These moul-
dering ruins are traditionally reported
to owe their origin to Rhsetus, chief
of the Etruscans, who, driven out of
Italy by an invasion of the Gauls,
estaolished his stronghold on this spot
B.C. 287, and transplanted into the
Alps the people and language of Etru-
ria. The rumed chapel of St John,
on a neighbouring height, is stated to
have been the earliest, and for a long

time the only Christian temple in the
valley, where heathenism prevailed to
a comparatively late period.

It is not above ^ m. from Tusis to
the Via Mala, and, as the ascent besins
immediately, the traveller should at
once set off and traverse the Via
Mala on foot ; the carriage will scarcely
overtake him before he has travei-sed
the finest part of the defile, which
cannot be fully seen from a carriage.

The Via Mala, which commences
about i m. above Tusis, and extends
for a distance of more than 3 miles.
Is one of the most sublime and tre-
mendous defiles in Switzerland. It is
difficult to give with any precision the
dimensions of this gorge, which has
cleft the mountains through tlie chine.
The precipices, which often rise per-
pendicularly on both sides of it, some-
times even overhanging their base, are
certainly in some places 1600 ft hig^h,
and in many places not more than Id
yards apart The Rhine, compressed
within this narrow stony bed, to the
width of a pigmy rivulet, is barely
audible as it rushes through the
depths below the road.

The rocks of slate and limestone,
composing the walls of the ravine, are
so hard that they appear to have suf-
fered no disintegration from the wea-
ther; the fracture is so fresh and
sharp that, were the convulsive force
from below, which divided them, again
called forth to unite them, it seems as
though the gulf would close, and leave
no aperturel)ehind.

When the traveller enters the mouth
of the defile, the sudden transition
from the glare of sunshine to the
gloom of a chasm, so narrow that it
leaves in some places but a strip of
sky visible overhead, is exceedingly
striking. The walls of rock, at intervab
on both sides, afforded in their natural
state not an inch of space along which
a goat's foot could (uamber ; and, in
ancient times, this part of the imm
was deemed quite inaccessible. The
peasants gave it the name of the Iiost
Gulf (Trou perdu, Verlohrenes Loch);
and, when they wanted to go from
Tusis to the higher valley of bchams,

Switzerland. route 87.— coire to chiavenna. vu hala. 267

iliey ascended the vale of the Nolla
for some distance, clambering over
the tops of high mountains, round
the shoulder of the Piz Beveren, and
deseended on the opposite side at
SuYen. A second road, formed in
1470,eiQBsed the mountains as before,
but dipped down, from the village of
HoDg^ into the depths of the Via
Mak, Mar the first bridge ; still
avoiibig altogether the Trou perdu.
This inconvenient path, after being
used fbt more than 300 years, was
sopeneded by the present magnificent
higfawsv eonstructed by the engineer
Pocobeul Avoiding the useless de-
tour, and the &tiguing ascent and
deaeeDt, he at once plunged into the
d^e, uid pierced the projecting but-
tress of rock, which had previously
denied tS[ access to it, by tne gallery
or tonnel of the Yerlohrenes Loch,
216 ft l(Mig, through which the road
UNT passes. The view, looking back
from this, through the dark vista of
Uack rock, and the fringe of firs,
opon the ruined tower of Bealt and
the son-lit valley of Domlesch?, is
'wy pleasing. The grooves of the
boring-rod, by which the very hard
^ roek is everywhere streaked, in-
^te how arduous was the labour of
Mnstmeting this part of the road. It
vu literally forcing a passage through
^ bowels of the earth ; and tne
whole width of the carriage-way has
heen gained by blasting a notch, as it
weie^ in the side of the mountain,
fornore than 1000 ft. it is carried
aioi^ beneath a stone canopy, thus
Hti&iaJly hollowed out. The road
is peeteeted by a parapet wall, below
wlueh;at a depth of many hundred
ftety die contracted Bhine frets the
foot of the precipice. The road is in
p^bof» steep, and fit for only one car-
riafe to pass. A little higher up,
the gofge bulges out into a sort of
basin, in the midst of which stands a
solitary house ; but it soon contracts
again, and the scenery of the pass
may be said to attain the height of
iprandenr beyond the first of the 3
raidges, by means of which the road
is conveyed from side to side pf the
B)iine,

This portion of the pass at least
should be traversed on foot ; the tra<*
veller hurrying through in his car-
riage is quite incapable of appre-
ciating its awful magnificence.

The Middle Bridget a most striking
object, from its gpraceful proportions,
and the boldness with which its light
arch spans the dark and deep g^f
below, is approached by a second
small gallery, protected by a wooden
roof to ward ofi' falling stones. Here-
abouts, the lofty precipices on the
one side actually overhang those on
the other, the direction of the chasm
being oblique, and the smooth wall
of rock on either side being nearly
parallel, and scarcely wider apart
above than below. Looking over the

Sarapet of this bridge, the Rhine, re-
uced to a thread of water, is barely
visible, boiling and foaming in the
depths below. Indeed, in one place
it is entirely lost to view— jammed
in, as it were, between the rocks, here
so slightly separated, that small blocks
and trunks of fir-trees, falling from
above, have been caught in the chink,
and remain suspended above the water.
The ordinary height of the bridge
above the river is 400 ft. ; and the
water, as mentioned above, is in one
place invisible at ordinary times, yet
during the inundation of 1834 the
water rose to within a few feet of
the bridge.

The road, again, is no more than
a shelf hewn out of the face of the
precipice overhung by the rock, so as
to be almost a subterranean passage,
and the width of the defile is, in
places, not more than 24 ft. Near
the 3rd, or upper bridge, however,
a fine structure — built to replace the
one swept oif in 1834 — it widens out,
and the road emerges into the open
valley of Schams (Sexamniensis, from
6 brooks, which fall into the Bhine
from its sides), whose green meadows
and neat white cottages have a pleas-
ing effect when contrasted with the
gloomy scene behind. It has, how-
ever, sufibred much from the inun-
dation of 1834, which pOQverted the
valley i^to a l^e, destroyed a grea(

258 ROUTE 87. — COIRE TO CHIAVENNA. ANDEER. SPLUGEN. Sect. 1.

part of the road, and rendered a new
line necessary. The first village is
Zillis; between it and Andeer, a
stone, bearing the following inscrip-
tion, was set up, by the road-side, on
a bridge, after the completion of the
great highways over the Spliigen and
Bemardme : — " Jam via patet hostibus
et amicis. Cavete, Rhceti ! Simplicitas
morum et Unio servabimt avitam liber'-
tatem,

[In descending the pass travellers
by voiturier should leave the carriag«%
at the first bridge and walk through
the Via Mala to Tusis. It is barely
4 m., and the voiturier will stay 2 hrs.
at Tusis.]

Andeer — Inn: Hotel Fravi; good,
and moderate charges. There are
mineral baths here, not much fre-
quented. This is the chief village in
Schams, and has 400 Inhab., who, like
their neighbours, are Protestants, and
speak Romansch. Over the doors of
many of the cottages, quaint verses
and mottoes in that language are
inscribed.

[The ascent of the Piz Beverin is
made from Andeer in about 6 hrs. It
is not very difficult, and the magnifi-
cence of the view well repays the
fatigue. It would be well to start
not later than 2 o'clock in the
morning. The ascent properly begins
at Zillis. Guide from Andeer 5 fr.;
horse. 9 fr. ; chaise k porteurs, 6^ fr.
a man.]

The ruined castles visible in the
valley of Schams have an historical
interest, from being monuments of
the dawn of Grison liberty. In the
last half of the fourteenth century
they served as the residences of bai-
lifis, zwingherm, or landvoghts, de-
pendants of the Counts of Vatz or of
the Bishop of Coire, whose exac-
tions at last roused the peasants to
arms, and the castles were stormed
and burnt. One of the first that
fell was Barenburg, which is passed
on the L of the road after quitting

[Here is passed the opening of the
Val Ferrera (Rte. 88), a convenient
route for travellers proceeding from
Coire to the Engadine who wish to
take the Via Mala on their way.]

As soon as the road has crossed
the mouth of the Val . Ferrera it
begins to mount in zigzags into the
gorg^ of the Bofla^ which closes up
the S. end of the oval vale of Schams,
as the Via Mala does the N. Its
scenery, though fine, is inferior to
the lower pass. The Bhine here de-
scends in a cataract, called the fiall
of the Bofla. It does not rank
as a first-rate waterfall, but tiie
scenery around is very picturesque —
the sides of the valley being duokly
wooded, and the river studded by
saw-mills, where the timber of the
neighbouring forests is sawn into
planks.

The road leaves the bridge on one
side, traverses a small gcQkry cut
in the rock, then crosses to the L bank
of the Bhine, and soon reaches

Spliigen (ItaL Spluga) (rnn. Post,
dear and uncivil). This little village
is situated on the Bhine, at the point
of departure of the two Alpine passes
of the Spliigen and Bemardin, at a
height of 4711 ft. above the sea. It
suffered severely from the flood of
1834, which swept away more than a
dozen houses and five human beings.
The covered bridge over the Bhine
escaped; that over the Seranda was
soon annihilated.

Spliigen is the chief place in the
desolate pastoral vale of the Bhein-
wald, and anciently belonged to the
lords of Sax, in the vale of Misocco,
on the S. slope of the Bemardin, but
it afterwards joined the Grey League.

The climate is very chilly here, and
barley scarcely ripens.

The village prospers by the con-
stant passage of gfoods and traveUers
to and from Italy. In autumn it is
thronged with drovers; large herds
of cattle and many horses then cross
the Alps for the Milan market.

An excursion, which lies within the
compass of a day, returning to sleep.

Switzerland.

ROUTE 87. — PASS OF THE SPLUQEN.

269

may be made from Splugen to the

Sfmfst of the Sinter-busm. It will

oocnpy 5 hrSb ^oing; 2 along the post-

road, 2 on horseback, and 1 on toot:

it is described in Bte. 91.

TnyeDera going N. from Splugen,
who hftve seen the Via Mala, maj
porsae with interest the wild path oyer
the LSckHberg and down the Savien"
Thai to Oure. (Bte. 90.)

At thii point properly commences
the pass of the Splugen.

Thisfias is very ancient, havine
heea knom to the Romans; but untu
niodeni improYements it was one of
the jDofit difficult, and sometimes
daDgerooa, of the frequented Alpine
pAsseg, The modern road was com-
peted by the Austrian Government
in 1823, to compete with the newer
Swiss road over the Bemardin, which,
had tbe Splugen been allowed to re-
iniUB in its original condition, would
bsTe withdrawn £rom it all the traffic
into My. The engineer employed
in this undertaking was the CheTailier
^egani.

The Splugen road, turning to the
^ oat of ^at which leads to the
JBenaidino Pass (Rte. 91), crosses
^ narrow wooden bridge over the
^^kme, and, quitting the river,
lN|ins at once to ascend. Fine
^vvwi of snow-peaks are obtained on
theaweoi. It is carried up the val-
ley of the Oberhausen-bacn, a smaU
^oaax which joins the Rhine at
^Ingoi, by an entirely new line,
uio (kid one haying been demolished
^ the disastrous tempest of 1834.
^Diia Ue valley presented one scene
<^dao]ation: road and bridges hav-
hig been entirely carried away, and
enomoaspiles of broken rocks spread
over its sides and bottom. The new
line^ however, on this side of the
moottain, constructed by a Swiss
engineer, employed by the canton
of the Grisons, is, in every respect,
a great improvement upon the old
one. A little way above Spliigen it
is carried through a short tunnel,
supported by a Gothic arch.

After surmounting the district of
£r forests by an uninterrupted slope,
^e roa4 Teacl^es the

Summit of the Pats, 6940 ft. above the
sea, by means of 1 6 skilfully conducted
zigzags, by which the face of the moun-
tam is scaled. Along this narrow
ridf e, which is 4) m. from Spliigen,
and more than 1800 ft above it, runs
the boundary line of Switzerland and
of Lombardy. Almost immediately
after surmounting it the road begins
to descend. Upon this slope lies the
first •cantoni^ra, or house of refuge;
and, lower down, a series of tourni-
quets conduct to the

Italian Custom-house and Passport-
office — a melancholy group of build-
ings, including several very com-
mon taverns for the entertainment
of waggoners. Here luggage is
searched. The custom-house stands
at one end of a sort of oval basin,
surrounded by lofty mountain peaks,
among which, on the rt. of the road,
rises that of the Spliigen, and
the glaciers which feed the rivers
runnmg towards Italy. It is a scene
of extreme dreariness and desolation;
not a shrub of any kind ctows here;
no vegetation is seen but lichen,
mosses, and a little coarse grass. The
snow often reaches up to the win-
dows of the first story of the houses.

The old road, a mere bridle-path,
proceeded from this elevated valley,
or basin, direct to the village of Isola,
through the defile of the Cardmel, a
very perilous spot, from its dire and
constant exposure to falling ava-
lanches.

The French army of Marshal Mac-
donald, who crossed the Spliigen be-
tween the 27th November and 4th
December, 1800, long before the new
road was begun, in the face of snow
and storm, and other almost insur-
mountable obstacles, lost nearly 100
men, and as many horses, chiefly in
the passage of the Cardinel. His
columns were literally cut through
by the falling avalanches, and man
and beast swept over to certain an-
nihilation in the abyss below. The
carriage-road very properly avoids
the gorge of the Cardinel altogether,
but the way to it turns off from the
second wooden bridge crossed on quit-
ting the custom-bovs?,

260

ROUTE 87. — ^PASS OF THE SPLIJGEN.

Sect. I

Near the scattered hamlet Teggiate
the descent recommences, and soon
after the road is carried through the
first great Gallery, more than 700 ft.
long, 15 ft. high and wide, followed
by a second, 642 ft. long, and, after
a short interval, by a third, 1530 ft.
long. These galleries, the longest
on any Alpine high road, are con-
structed of the most solid masonry,
arched, with roofs sloping outwards,
to turn aside the snow, supported on
pillars, and lighted by low windows^
like the embrasures of a battery.
They were rendered necessary to pro-
tect this portion of the roadtrom fall-
ing avalanches which habitually de-
scend the face of the mountains, and
which, if not warded off, would have
swept away the road the first year
after it was made.
From the entrance of the second
allery there is a most striking view
own upon the roofs of the houses of
Isola, and tlfe long line of zigzags,
abandoned since 1838, by which ue
traveller originally descended to Chia-
venna. At the village of Pianazzo (a
cluster of pitch-coloured hovels), the
new line, after descending 2 ang^ar
terraces, turns off to the L This alter-
ation, by which nearly 3 m. of dis-
tance are saved, was rendered neces-
sary on account of the injury done to
the whole line by the storm of 1834,
and also by the great dangers to
which that part of the route, between
Isola and the Cascade of the Mades-
simo, was exposed from avalanches,
which fall regularly into the savage
glen of the Lira, below Pianazzo, pro-
ducing an almost annual loss of life.
In 1835 5 peasants and 8 horses were
overwhelmed by the snow in this glen
as they were returning from conduct-
ing the diligence on a sledee over the
mountain. ' The postilion, being near-
est the rock, which fortunately some-
what overhung the road, drew the
horse he rode under the cliff as soon
as he heard the crash ; to this circum-
stance he and the animal owed their
preservation. Although buried like
the rest, who perished, they were res-
cued and dug out after an imprison-
Tfient of some hgurs,

Pianazzo stands at the same heiglit
above the sea as the bridge over the
Rhine at Splugen. The road, after
passing through it, crosses the little
stream of the Madessimo, witliin a
few yards of the verge of the precipice,
over which it throws itself in a beau-
tiful fall, 800 ft. high. The view,
looking down the fall from a terrace
near the bridge, is very fine ; it is
also well seen from the different wind-
ing terraces down which the road is
carried. [From near the bridge, as-
cending the stream of the Madesimo,
there is a practicable pass to Canieul
in the Yal Ferrera.] After crossing
the bridge, the road traverses tome
galleries, and gradually descends by
numerous zigzags down the face of
something nearly approaching to a
precipice. This is a most extra-
ordinary piece of engineering, and
well deserves examination. It is of
course best seen on the ascent

Campo Dolcino, which, in spite of
its sweet-sounding Italian name, is but
a poor village, with a tolerable Inn
(Post, civil people), on a small grassy
plain, on the borders of the Lira,

A further improvement has been
made in the continuation of the road,
which, on quitting the plain, threads
the gorge of St, Giacomo ; an inscrip-
tion, by the road-side, commemorates
its completion by Carlo Donegani, in
the reign of the Emperor Francis H.
It was effected at considerable la-
bour and expense, by cutting throng^
the rock. The vale of the Lira presents
a singular aspect of desolation, from
the quantity and size of the masses of
fallen rock which entirely filled the
lower part of it They are fragments
of the neighbouring mountains, whidi
are composed of a species of white
gneiss, exceedingly brittle, and which,
after exposure to the weather, assumes
a red colour. It must have been a diffi-
cult task to carry a road throueh such
a wilderness, between such a labyrinth
of detached blocks ; and it is accord-
ingly in many places narrow, the
turnings very sharp, and the temces
too short The aspect of desolation
in this fractured valley would be

SujUtzeftand.

ROUTE 8?.— CHIAVEJ^NA.

261

mater were it not for the rich dark

fdoage of the chesnut-trees, of very

lar^ axe, nHiich now begin to spront

out frooi among tiie rocks so as to

mask their barrenness. The tall

wlnteltafian campanile of the church

of Madoima di Galliyaggio, amid snch

a group of foliage, contrasting with

tlra tall frecipices around, forms an

agreedbtft picture. Near it, at the

ySan^ SL Giacomo, whence the yalley

is named, the Ldra is spanned by a

new and bold bridge.

Amiieor two nrther on, the val-
ley opens out, and Chiavenna expands
to Tiew, a picturesque town, beau-
tifully fltoated, under an Italian sun,
sarroimded by hills clothed with the
richest T^etation, with vines and fig-
trees.

Omiama (Germ. Clefen, Clavena of
the aodents) — Inns: Conradi's, fair;
Chiare d'Oro, also good, cheaper;
—a town of 3040 Inhab., is charmingly
atnated in the midst of vineyards,
dose imder the mountains, which ap-
|wr to impend over it, at the junc-
tioa of the valley of St. Giacomo
vHii that of the Maira, called Val Bre-
9ig^a« Beyond this beauty of situa-
tbn there is very little here to interest
tlMs passing traveller. The town
pmeats a decayed appearance, and
■ny large' houses half ruinous, but
denves much benefit from its position
on Ae Spliigen road, and maintains
seronl apinning-mills for silk and
Mttoo. An ingenious manufacturer
tnuasA Yanossi at one time wove here
A fiie«roof cloth of asbestus, a mine-
ral whieh abounds in the mountains
of the neighbourhood. Opposite Con-
ned inn, at the foot of a rock, is a
lavge rumed Palftzzo which once be-
longed to the Salis family : strangers
m- admitted to enjoy the fine view
frosi &e summit of the rock. The
prnopal €h. of St Lawrence has a tall
eampoadle standing within a square
enelosm^, surrounded by a cloister.
Oa tme aide are two bone-houses, filled
with skulls arranged in patterns,
and, adjoining them, in the octagonal
Baptistery, is an ancient stone font,
sculptured with rude bas-reliefs, which

will interest the antiquary. The citi-
zens keep their Valtehne wine in natu-
ral grottoes at the foot of the moun-
tains, which form excellent cool cellars
and are called YentoralL

[Near Pleurs, about 3 m. up the Val
Bregaglia, memorable for the fate of
its inhabitants, who were buried by
the fall of a mountain (Rte. 94), is
a peculiar manufacture of a coarse
ware for culinary purposes, made out
of potstone (lapis oUaris). This stone
is easily cut, or turned in a lathe, and
is able to endure heat. Pliny calls it
lapis Comensis, from its being ex-
ported from the lake of Como : the
manufacture has greatly dwindled
down at present.]

The description of the road up the
beautiful Val Bregaglia and over the
pass of the Maloja, by way of Pleurs,
IS given in Rte. 94.

uhiavenna belonged to the Dukes
of Milan down to the 16th century,
when the Swiss became possessed of
it, and it formed, with the Yalteline
and Bormio, a state subject to the
canton of the Grisons. Napoleon
added it to the kingdom of Italy, as
lying on the S. side of the Alps ; and
the Congress of Yienna, by tne same
rule, transferred it to the Emperor of
Austria.

The Fall of the Gardona, about 4 m.
from Chiavenna, is worth notice. At
the distance of ^ hr. from the town on
the Riva road, the river on the rt. must
be crossed. A walk of ^ hr. leads
thence to the FalL

The diligences through Chiavenna
to Coire in IS^hrs. pass at a very
early or late hour. A voiturier to
Coire charges 100 frs., sleeping the
first night at Andeer, and arriving
in the afternoon of the second day
at Ragatz. A bargain should be
made that he should change horses at
Campo Dolcino, and so go at a better
pace and avoid waiting 2 hrs. at that
duU spot. For the road from Chia-
venna to Lecco and the Lake of Como
see Rte. IIG.

262

ROUTE 88. — ANDEER TO OASACCIA.

Seot.

ROUTE 88.

ANDEER TO CASACCTIA, BY THE AVERS
THAL, FORCELLINA AND 8EPTIMER
PASSES.

11 hrs. Steady walking: take pro-
visions.

This is the best route for travellers
going from Coire to the Engadine wish-
ing to see the Via Mala on their way,
but it is little known and unfrequented,
l^m. above Andeer a considerable tor-
rent joins 1. the Hinter Bhein flowing
out of a vaUev that opens S.E. This
torrent is called the Avers Rhein, and
the main valley through whichit flows
is the Avers ThoU or Val Aversa, The
lower part of this valley, however, is
called Val Ferrera. About J an hr.
from the opening of the valley there
is a fine waterfall, and the path is
carried through a narrow thickly-
wooded defile, and passing some
marble-quarries reaches

Caniciilf about 3 hrs. from Andeer;
and nearly 3 hrs. farther, ascending
by a tolerable path, the chief village
of the valley,

Crestaj is reached. There is no
Inn either here or at Caniciil, but in
both places the clergymen receive
hospitably the few strangers who pass.
Of course, on leaving, a present should
be made in such cases to the clergy-
man's wife or housekeeper. Cresta is
a large village, and one of the highest
in the Alps, being more than 6000 ft.
above the sea. The last straggling
pine-trees are seen about the village.
Above this the valley o^ens out into
a wide expanse of Alpine pastures,
which reach nearly to the summits of
the mountains that enclose the head
of the valley. About 4 m. beyond
Cresta a group of chalets called Juf
is passed. [From thence there is a
pass called Valetta, towards the N.E.,
to Bivio on the road of the Julier (Bte.
92). The summit may be reached in
2^ hrs. from Cresta: 2 hrs. from the
summit is Bivio.]

The higher pass of the FurcuIoL, or
Furkel, over wliich lies the route to
Casaccia, is at the eastern extremity
of the Avers ThaL The ascentpresents
no difficulty; but as there is little to

Soint out the true direction, Tvliich
es a little N. of E., a guide is re-
quired. The summit of the Furcula
Pass (8847 ft.)— about 3 hrs. from
Cresta — conunands a wide viemr over
a wilderness of peaks, limited in part
by the higher ranges immediately
near at hand. The descent on the £.
side lies over a slope of snow scarcely
steep enough for a glissade, and then
over rocks until the horse-track over
the Septimer Pass is reached close to
the summit, where once stood a small
hospice, or place of refuge, now in
ruins.

The Septimer, now an indifiTereot
horse-path, but well traced and not
difficult, leads from Bivio to Casaccia,
4 or 4^ hours* walk* The S. side is
much more steep and stony than the
other side. The summit is 761 6 ft« above
the sea-leveL The view from this
is fine; the Hz Muretto and Monte
del Oro beinig conspicuous features
in it. Thought impractica,ble for any-
kind of vehicles^ this was once a fre«>
quented highwav between Italy and
Switzerland until the formation of the
carriage-road over the Spliigen, which,
being a lower pass, and 10 m. shorter,
is of course preferred to it. On the
Monte Lvnghino (9120 ft.), between the
passes of Septimer, Julier, and Maloya,
are situated the sources of the Maira
flowing into the Adriatic, of the
Oberhalbstein Rhein flowing into the
North Sea; and the river Inn rises
out of a small lake and flows into the
Black Sea. Thus, one single moun-
tain distributes its rills between the
three great seas which bathe the con-
tinent of Europe, and in this respect
it is unique.

In about 2 hrs. from the summit of
the Eurkel Pass the traveller reaches
Casaccia (Rte. 94), where very te
quarters may be found at Gioannini'^
Inn. This pass, though it offers no
difficulty to the mountaineer, is rather
a hard dav*8 work of about 11 hrs*
steady walking.

Simtzertand.

ROIJTE 89. — SPLUGEN TO ILANZ.

263

ROUTE 89.

SPL^GHIO ILA]JZ,BT THE PASS OF THE
VALSESEajS AND THE PETER'S THAL.

S|%nto Hrs.

-TOenen 1^

^Bit 34

^^ ....'!. 3i
^» 2i

. "5f ^* road of the Bernardin

» folWed as far as Niifenen,

™« ttan ao hour above Splugen.

th ^ "^^ * minutes after passing

^2JKiifeiien, the footpath to the

^^^branchesoff to the rt by the

|. ?» little stream, reaches in a

,^-™J«te8more the base of the chain

,5jJ|^"«»a A vaUey on the N., and

ti^/^'<» ascend along its side at

^^l^^eoUliSs. These cliffs

an ejg^i, ^^ top of the pass, and are

b^jr'^Me to it, the way up

tberijT'^^** a short distance from

^lollofe] ,^*^6<^ spur separates

fitB,(L Jj^okinff towards Niifenen

^m 2^ ^i^wn to Hinterrhein.

Sl'^ho^^ of less than an hour,

ZS^n^T^^^ nearly at its point

5S?«aC .2^ the northern chain,

k^^rt. tS® ^ood which clothes

S^^terrK^ highpasturesoTer-

UL !f P^tb ^^in are now reached,

^ ^ ^a a '^^ *^** village falls

JS^ ^^ry good view from

'*]!jfesw**u^*^t to the Valserberg

22 tfesfr^* is marked by poles,

jJjMiiijQw ** jpoint of the pass is

?*-^r^^*^-6ing less than 3 hrs.

S**«cren*. I'he Col is a narrow

S??*tMid ^^ *^® chain, covered

«'rt **^ & Elevated nearly 7500

o3»Tie\y t^^^-leveL

^iarex^ tlie north is very wild.

21 '^ tlift^^n tain ranges are seen,

^-^ Vi?^ tlie whole line of the

?«»^ an J^» from the Todi to the

^^^ ^J^broken bank of snow

** For nearly an hour after the sum-
mit of the valserberg the way is
marked by poles: the highest chalets
are then reached, and a stream from
the right crossed. An hour and a half
more are necessary to gain V als or St.
Peter's Flas (a small Inn), where the
main valley of the Glenner is entered.
This is divided into three districts;
the lower valley of Lugnetz, the side
valley of Yrin, and the upper valley
of V als, called also St. Peter's Thai.
In this last district the language is
German, as well as in the valley of
the Rheinwald and the neighbouring
Savien Thai. In the districts of
Lugnetz and Yrin Bomansch is
spoken.

[The scenery of the St. Peter's Thai
above Vals is said to be of the grandest
character. The last village, Zavreila,
is about 3 hrs. above Vals. The path
passes in great part through mag-
nificent pine-forests above a formid-
ably deep gorge, at the bottom of
which the river works it way. Za-
vreila is completely surrounded by
snowy peaks and glaciers, but there
are several passes over which the
practised mountaineer may make his
way. One, over glacier, leads nearly
due S. to the valley of the Hinter
Rhein, some miles above the village of
the same name; a second, called La
Lenta, to Olivone in the Yal Blegno,
a difficult glacier pass; a third, not
so difficult, also reaches the Yal
Blegno, a little above Olivone, mount-
ing due W. from the chalets of
Alpersch, the last in the St. Peter's
Thai.]

A very high and narrow gorge
above Plaz cuts short in that direction
the little plain in which the village is
situated. Another defile terminates it
to the N. about half a mile below Plaz.
This ravine, through which the path to
Ilanz, having crossed the river, is now
conducted, is one of the grandest gorges
by which the Alps are nven. The river
is again crossed to its right bank, where
a landine from the bridge has only been
effected by hewing a shelf out of the
rock. The way is afterwards cut with
some difficulty along a broken decli-
vity, till Uie valley opens out at the

264 ROUTE 90, 91*— RBJlCftfilfAU TO SPLOgEN* AliD BElXtNZONA. Sect. 1

cblllets of Feistenberg and Montasg,
finely placed on the ereen slopes. A
se<!bnd fi^orge succeeds^ and the path
is forced to ascend, scarcely finding
ground for its course, until a little
oratory by its side marks the close of
the ascent and of the long defile (6 m.),
and the fertile valley of Lugnetz opens
out to the N.

Into its fields the path now de-
scends. The river is crossed some
distance lower down, by a bridge just
above the

Chalybeate Baths of Peiden ; homely
accommodation at the Bad-haus, 50
beds, belonging to the medical man
of the place, xhis is too low down
the valley to be a good centre for
mountain excursions. It lies in a
sheltered nook open to the sun. Its
neighbourhood is rich in little-known
peaks, passes, and glaciers. A
wretched char-road leads from Peiden
to Ilanz.

From St Peter's Plaz to Ilanz is a
walk of full 5 hrs. (See Btes. 82, 86.)

ROUTE 90.

REICHENAU TO SPLUGEN, BY THE SAVIEN-
THAL AND PASS OF THE LOCHLIBEBO.

1 1^ hrs. A bridle-path the greater
part of the way. Our road runs up the
rt. bank of the Vorder-Rhein, through
Bonaduz, as far as the German Pro-
testant village Versaniy where the fearful
fulf of the Versamer Tobel is crossed
y & very remarkable wooden bridge,
with a span of 200 ft. (probably the
widest wooden bridge on this principle
existing), and 232 ft above the torrent
Savien. The builder is the engineer
La Nicca. Here a path turns S. up
the wild valley of the Savien or
Babbinsa, a very remarkable ravine,
"wilder than the Via Mala," of
which the W. side only is cultivated
and inhabited by a Protestant popu-
lation of about 1000 souls, Germans,
who were settled here in the days
of the Hohenstaufen Emperors. The

almost uninhabited £. side is u
places formed by precipices, the rock}
escarpment of Mount Heinzenbeiy
The path is carried up the 1. or W,
bank of the Rabbiusa, by the hamletf
of Tenna, Areza, Neulcirch, Platz^
where the Rathhaus Inn is ill provided

[A deep path strikes off hence ovei
the col called Stage across a shoulder
of the Piz Beveren to Tusis, 4 hours.
The beginning of the ascent is very
steep, but afterwards lies over tire
grass. The summit of the pass is
about 6000 ft., and is reached in 1}
hr. from Platz. It commands a fine
view over the Grison Alps. The de-
scent to Tusis traverses the remark-
able plateau of the Heinzenberg, an
open plain rising by deg^es aboye
the valley of Domlesch.]

From JPlatz the direct way to Splii-
gen continues over the meadows of
the Camana Alp to Thalkirohe, the
oldest and highest church in the dis-
trict. Now begins the ascent of the
Ldchliberg, 8442 ft. above the sea-level.

A steep descent leads do^vn to the
village Splugen (see Rte. 87).

ROUTE 91.

PASS OF THE BERNARDIN — SPL'oGIIN
TO BELLINZONA.

Post road, 7 posts s= 63 miles.
SplUgeu. Posts. EDg.in.

Hiriterrhein 1.9

St. Beniardino . . . . If . 151
Misocco ...... If . 12^

Gama 14 . H^

Bellinzona 1^ . Hi

These are the distances charged in
posting, and may slightly exceed the
measured distances. In posting from
Coire by the Spliigen to Chiavennn
the same carriage may be taken all
the way, but on the Bernardino road
the carriage is changed at each stage
between Spliigen and Bellinzona.

The road from Coire over the Ber-
nardin is the same as that over the
Spliigen up to Splugen. Diligence
from Coire to Bellinzona, 17 hrs.;

Switzerland, houte 91. — pass of the bernardix.

265

_ n to Bellinzona, 10 hrs. Voi-
^r from Ba^tz in 2^ days, 160 fr.
lie /aw on this road are l)€tter than
« the other pass ; that at St.
««M«diDo is excellent. It is the
fWom to stop at Bellinzona, but
't abetter to go on to Locarno, a
TOjRttier place, and the hotel
jqMlljgooi The supply of post-
■^ Ml this road is very small,
*M aificolties are sometimes ex-
I*J8iced in getting on.

*lc road over the Bemardin was
WBstmctedin 1822, under the direc-
??nrf the engineer Pocobelli, at the
jwit expense of the Sardinian and
J^ gOTemments. About 6-7ths
wtkeium required were advanced by
^H of Sardinia, who duly ap-
Pr*»ted the advantages to his domi-
Jjattto be derived from a highway
^fflcli should connect, by a direct
^Jeport of Genoa and the ca-
J«Tmu with Switzerland and W.

Jr "^^ leaving the bridge of
y (Rte. 87) on the 1., advances
JffleTalley of Hinter-Rhein, whose
J™ and barren features have less
« «auty than of wildness, along the
iJ«of the Rhine through Niifanen,
'^taboutTm.to

j^crr/i€,n {Inn: Post, clean), the
2»8t Tillage in the valley; no grain
^rn'^^y grows.

i«ace to the source of the Rhine

^•e up 6 or 7 hours going and

?^%» exclusive of stoppages.

J^*^tude of streamlets trickle

jj^i^m the crevices in the sur-

^^1% mountains, where deep snow

2f .f^ost all the year round, to

?! 7* infant Rhine. The Source

' * atew lies about 10 mUes higher

1 jjjy^lley, J of which distance, or

jJ^jiQ the summer, can be per-

1^ on horseback, the rest on

p|5j«e latter part of the walk es-

jCT^Js difficult and fatiguing, over

JJ^lid melting snow, and the

J?J^ of a guide is necessary to

« tie way. The scenery of the

^Jpart of the valley is savagely

S7j^*nd well deserves the notice

^^^^ellers. The river takes its

*^ the very extremity of this

frost-bonnd valley, from beneath the
Rheimjocdd glacier, filling a depression
between the Rheinwatdlwrn (10,912
ft.) and the Zaporthom. At Uie end
of about 4 miles the path begins to
ascend, and is soon lost in crossing
steep slopes covered with debris of
rock, so tnat a previous knowl^ge of
the direction will alone enable the
traveller to reach the source by him-
self. A small rocky and swampy
green spot, on which a few sheep may
be seen feeding immediately beneath
the glacier of the Moschel Horn, sur-
rounded on all sides by snow and
glaciers, is called ironically "Para-
oies." Immediately opposite, and on
the other side of the Rhine, here
struggling through the stones, is a
savage gorge or rent in the rock
called "Holle." The narrow path
skirts its edge. To this succeeds a
rapid rise. In \ an hour more you
come to the head of the valley, a
small verdant flat plain, whence you
look down on the fountain-heaa in
the glacier, which is sometimes hol-
lowed out into a magnificent dome or
cavern.]

There is a fine JPcms, the Valserberg,
from Hinter-Rhein to Ilanz (Rte. 89).

The road over the Bemardin bids
adieu to the Rhine at Hinter-Rhein,
crossing it by a stone bridge, after
which you immediately begin to as-
cend, breasting the steep slope of the
mountain by sixteen zigzags; many
of the turnings are very abrupt.

A striking view opens out on the
rt, over the head of the Rhine valley
and the glaciers, whence it bursts
forth. On the rt. of the road rises
the gigantic mass of the Moschel-
Hom, and on the 1. the black peak of
the Mittag-Horn overhangs the pass.

This passage over the Alps is said
to have oeen known to the Romans:
it was called the Yogelberg down to
the beginning of thenfteenth century,
when a pious missionary, St. Ber-
nardin of Sienna, preached the Gospel
through these remote Alpine valleys,
and a chapel dedicated to him, on the
S. side of^the mountain, gave rise to
the name which it still retains. It
was traversed, in March, 1799, by the

266

ROUTE 91. — ST. BERNARDINO. MlSOCCO.

Sect. 1-

French army of Lecourbe, at a season
when winter still reigns on these ele-
vations, and before the mountain pos-
sessed any other road than a miser-
able mule-path.

The summit of the pass, about 7010
ft. above the sea, and 2400 ft. above
the village of Spliigen, is partly occu-
pied by a lake called Logo Moesola,
the source of the Moesa, along whose
margin the road runs. At this point
a very substantial but homely inn, or
house of refuge, has been erected. The
head of this pass is grander and less
dreary than the heads of the other
great passes.

A little way down the S. slope of
the mountain, the Moesa is crossed
by a handsome bridge of a single
arch, 110 ft. above the river, named
after Victor Emanuel, King of Sar-
dinia, who contributed so largely to
the construction of this road. The
carriage-way is here covered over for
some distance with a substantial roof,
supported on solid buttresses, to pro-
tect it from avalanches and whirl-
winds of snow, to which this gully is
much exposed at times. A few strag-
gling and stunted pines here make
uieir appearance; a little lower down,
trees 40 or 50 ft. high may be seen
clinging to the rock, with barely 2 ft.
depth of soil beneath them; their
roots scarcely strike downwards at
all, but spread far and wide in a hori-
zontal direction, so that when a tree
is thrown down by the wind, roots
and soil are peeled off at once, and
nothing but bare rock remains below.
The S. face of the mountain is also
far more abrupt and .precipitous than
the N.; but the roaa is so skilfully
carried down it, and so gradually,
that a postilion, accustomed to it,
trots quickly down the whole way,
turning sharp round the comers of
the zigzags. The traveller beholds
the road almost beneath his feet, ex-
tending like an imcoiled rope below
him, and as he moves backwards and
forwards, following its turns, he ap-
pears to hover over the valley below,
and might fancy himself fastened to
the end of a pendulum, and balanced
in mid-air. The passage of the

mountain from Hinter-Rhein to Sl^
Bernardino is effected in about 3^
hrs.; and on a comparatively level
spot is

St. Bernardino (Trms: H. Brocco,
large and good ; H. Ravizzo ; H. Motto),
a village and waterine-place, the first
and loftiest in the vaUey of Misocco,
consisting of a few houses planted,
half way down the descent on a small
plain or ledge, in a romantic situa-
tion. There is a mineral spring with
Baths here, having a temperature of
about 40° Fahr., and a strong taste
of ink. It is one of the highest mine-
ral sources among the Alps, and an-
nually draws a considerable number
of patients to the spot, for whom large
hotels and pensions have been built.
The situation of this village is very
fine, and it would serve as excellent
head-quarters for a mountaineer
wishing to explore the neighbouring
ranges.

After leaving St. Bernardino the
road ascends for about 2 m., and then
plunges by a series of curious and
complicated zigzags into the lower
valley of Misocco (in Germ. Masox or
Misox Thai; Ital. Val Mesolcina),
which is celebrated for its beauty.
Near the road are two very fine falls
of the Moesa.

Near 8t, Giacomo there are quar-
ries of gypsum : here there is also a
fall of &e Moesa. It is a continued
descent as far as Misocco and the
Fonte di Soazza, which is only a few
hundred feet higher than Coire, in the
valley of the Rhine. This will give
some idea of the abruptness of the
southern descent from the Alps con-
trasted with the northern.

Misocco (^Tnn : *H. ToscaniJ, a vil-
lage of about 900 Inhab., called also
Cremao. The views from its church-
yard and old castle are fine.

In the neighbourhood of Misocco
the luxuriant growth of the chestnut
and walnut, the abundant crops of
maize, the presence of the vine and
the mulberry, which succeed each
other within the space of a few miles,
remind the traveller that he is indeed
in Italy ; and he soon becomes other-
wise aware of this change by the

Switzerland,

ROUTE 92. — VASS OF THE JULIER.

267

^tered lan^age, the laziness and
filth of the inhabitants, and their mi-
serable habitations. The situation of
'^KsoGco is charming. A little way
below it, in the middle of the valley,
rises op the mined Castle of Misocco,
a feodil seat of the powerful lords of
Hasox, sold by them, 1482, to the
Milanese general Trivulzio, taken and
destrojed by the Graiibiindtners,
^526. The valley is here bounded
by precipices, over and among
whose rocky sides a number of water-
^^ dash, assuming the shape of
that which in Scotland is called the
Mare's TaiL The knoll on which the
castle stands seems formed to com-
mand the passage up and down.

i^m Soazza a very steep and diffi-
cult path, not practicable for horses,
ascendb the B. side of the valley, and
leads to Chiavenna in 8 hrs. by the
forcola pass.

The valley of Misocco has lost
mnch of its beauty and cheerfulness'
since the fearful thunderstorm and
inundation of August, 1834, which
overwhelmed the land in many places
viUi torrents of rocks, and nas left
Miind beds of gravel and alluvium
in places 90 ft high, thus condemn-
ing it to sterility. 50 houses, 200
dialets, and many bridges were swept
>^ay. An inscription has been at-
tached to a buge mass, stating that
it and others descended from the
^orcola.

Below Soazza the road runs along
&e It bank of the Moesa. On the rt,
*he graceful Cascade of Buff alora preci-
pitates itself from the top of a rock.

Lostallo {Inn : Post, tolerable). The
general legislative assemblies of the
men of the valley are held here.

2J m. farther is the post station at

(^aia. Here figs and mulberries
begin to appear. •

At Crfono the Yal Calanca opens
oat fiom the W.

£overedo — {Inns : Croce Bianca, to-
lerable ; Canone d*Oro) — a viUa^e con-
taining nearly 1000 Inhab., with the
ruined castle of Trivulzio in its vi-
cinity. The Prior of Boveredo and 1 1
old iw^omen were burnt for practising

witchcraft by Carlo Borromeo, in
1583, at his first visitation of the dio-
cese. The rivers hereabouts are used
to float down the timber cut in the
forests of the higher transverse valleys.

St Vittore is the last village in the
canton of the Orisons: below it we
enter the canton Tessin and the Yal
Levantina, and our road joins that
descending from the St. Oothard
(Rte. 34). The entire valley of the
Misocco, down to its junction with the
Yal Levantina, is amongst the most
beautiful in the Alps. Passing the
battle-field of Arbedo, we reach

Bellmzona (Rte. 34). Travellers who
have slept at Bernardino may easily

Sush on to Locarno (Rte. 113), which
as the advantaee of a more beautiful
position, and of being the first point
at which the steaniers touch in going
from Magadino to Arena. By taking
the first steamer from Mag^ino or
Locarno, and the railway from Arena
to Alessandria, Turin or Oenoa may
be reached about 2 p.u.

CJoire.

Churwalden •

Tlefenkasten .

. U

Molins . . .

• U

Silva Plana

. li

Samaden . .

ROUTE 92.

PASS OF THE JULIER, FBOM COIRE TO
SAMADEN.

5} posts =* 53 miles.

Poats. Eug. m.

= «*

= lU
=. 15*

= 8

A carriage-road finished 1839. En-
gineer, M. la Nicca. It is traversed
daUy in summer except Sunday, by a
diligence as far as Samaden, in 12 hrs.

The scenery on this route is very
beautiful and interestini^. Instead of
following the valley of the Rhine,
which leads to the W. above Coire,
the road on leaving the town imme-
diately begins to ascend by zigzags
towards the S., following tne course
of the Rabiusa torrent. On the 1. is
seen the opening of the Schalfig Thai
(Rte. 99), whose torrent (the Plessur)

N 2

268

HOUTE 92. — JULlEE. dOlRE 1*6 ST. M6RITZ.

Sect 1.

is mingled with the Rabiusa just out-
side the town. Passing the village of
Malix (near which rises the pictu-
resque castle Strasberg),

Churwalden (/nns; Ejreuz; Krone)
and Parpan (Post). Near the summit
of the pass see the Lake of Yatz, &c.,
rt., backed by firs; the time-honoured
stone Gallows of Ober-Vatz. Over a
barren heath, to

Zenz — (/n» ; Krone ; a tolerable
dining-place). Beyond Lenz, the
Komansch tongue (Bte. 66) is almost
exclusively spoken ; German is rarely
understood, except in the iuAS.

The road descends in numerous
curves to the level of the river Albula,
which enters the Khine through the
remarkable Schyn defile near Tusis
(Bte. 87), and is crossed in order to
reach

Txefenkasten (Rom. Caste), (/««, H.
Albula, good, clean, and comfort-
able; Kreutz), a village, situated, as its
name implies, in a deep hollow, at the
entrance of the Oberhalbstein, or val-
ley running S. up to the foot of the Ju-
lier and Septimer, a distance of about
20 m. It is scattered over with ruins
of castles ; no less than 10 of which
may still be counted, and concen-
trates in itself an extraordinary com-
bination of CTand features.

The road leading to the Albula Pass
(Rte. 93) here turns to the 1. There is
a short cut from the village of Lenz.

Immediately above Tiefenkasten
the road quits the valley of the Albula,
a^ain ascends, and is carried along the
edge of a cliif called Steiny high above
the Oberhalbstein Rhein. The gorge
near this has been compared, in its
scenery, with the Via Mala.

The valley near Tinzen is very
bleak and bare. The Castle of Split'
datschf surmounted by a square tower,
rises between the road and river. A
constant and steep ascent through
more picturesque scenery brings you
to the village of

Molins, MUhlen (Inn, Lowe, very fair),
in a little amphitheatre, amidst the
finest scenery of the Oberhalbstein. To
reach Muhlen, the road crosses the
stream of the Palleer, and, recrossing

it to the next village, Marmels, brings
you at length to

Bivio or Stalla {Inn: Lowe), at the
foot of the Pitz d'Emet This very poor
and inhospitable-looking village lies at
the branching of 2 passes, the Julier
and Septimer (Bivium). The Septimer
leads into the Val Bregaglia (Rte. 88).
Bivio is placed in a secluded basin,
shut in by high mountains, in a climate
so severe that all vegetation is stunted.
Not a tree can grow in the neighbour-
hood, and the people are reduced to
burn sheep-dung for fuel. Potatoes
rarely ripen at this height — 5630 ft.
above the sea.

It takes about 2 hrs. to ascend the
winding road from Stalla to the
Summit of the Julier Pass, 7625 ft.
above the sea -level. The ascent
is not difficult, and the pass is re-
markably safe from avalanches. Its
scenery is not particularly ^and, the
outline of the mountains bein? round.
On the top, the road passed between
two rudely hewn pillars pf granite
(derived from the neighbouring moun-
tains), called Juliuses Columns, They
are about 4 ft. high, and destitute of
inscription. Down to the 16th cent,
it is known from records that only
one column existed, which in 1538 fell
down and broke. It may have been a
mile-stone. Owing to some alterations
in the road, one of these columns was
removed from its place 1854, when
Roman coins were found at its base.
Augustus caused a highway to be
carried from Chiavenna over the
passes of the Maloja and Julier. A
carriage-road was formed across this
pass to St. Moritz in 1823; but as no
attempt was made* for many years to
improve the approach to it through
the Oberhalbstein, little advantage
was gained by it. Flocks of Berga-
mesque sh^p are often seen on the
highest pastures, near the summit of
the pass, in summer, attended by wild-
looking, picturesque shepherds from
the Val Brembana.

The descent into the Engadine,
passing the Julier Alp and its chalets,
is less abrupt. Between lofty preci-
pices a fine view of the Bernina chain

Switzerlaitd. £0UTE 92. — coire to samaden. st. moritz.

269

is disclosed and its glaciers. The vil-
lage of

• SiZra Plana (^Inn : Kreuz, clean) is

atiiated on meadows, between 2 small

and stran^^y green lakes, which are

feeders and reservoirs of the river Inn,

at the junction of the roads from the

passes of the Bernina, Julier, and

Maloja, with the high road down the

Engaidine, 5560 ft. above the sea. [l^o

Pontresina over the Surlei and down

the Vd Rosegg, in 8 J hrs. (Rte. 96).]

4 IB. further, on the L bank of the
Inn, stands

St. Moritz (in Homansch San Mu-
rezzan). — Inns: EngadinerKulm, com-
fortable ; Kreuz ; Pension Bavier. The
KQrIiaus,alarge establishment, can ac-
commodate 300 persons: table-d'hote,
billiard and reading-rooms; 20 min.
walk from village, close to the princi-
pal mineral spring. This little village
is rapidly rising into repute as a water-
ing-place, upon the strength of its very
powerful chalybeate waters, first de-
scribed, 1539, by Paracelsus. They
are efficacious in cases of scrofula,
stomach complaints, /fee. The water
is heated for the Baths^ of which there
are 80 in the Eurhaus. The spring
rises at the foot of Mount Kosegg, on
the rt. bank of the Inn, in a marshy
meadow.

The village contains about 300 In-
hab., and is situated on the W. and S.
slopes of a hill 5581 ft. above the
sea. It overlooks the Inn, and several
beautiful ffreen lakes which that river
forms in this part of its course. The
climate is too cold to allow even barley
to flourish ; the surrounding land is
chiefly laid out in pastures, and
there are some forests of larch on the
neighbouring mountains. The little
lake dose to the village, which is
generally frozen over from the end of
November to the beginning of May,
furnishes capital trout.

Carriages, — 1 horse, for the day, 1 5
fr.; 2 horses, 30 fr. There is a printed
Tariff of charges.

Guides. — 6 to 8 fr. the day ; return,
6 fr. See TarifF.

A pleasant and easy walk of ^ hr.
leads up to the Pi^ St. Gtan^ from

which a fine view is gained over the
upper part of the Inn valley.

The principal Excursions to be made
from St. Moritz are (a) up the valley
to the Lugni See, the source of the
Inn (Rte. 94) ; (6) Piz Nair 10,040 ft.
to the W., 3 hrs. ascent with donkeys
or horses. View of the Bernina, as
beautiful as from Piz Languard. (c)
Up the Suvrptta valley, over the col,
past the lake (8590 ft.), and down the
North Suvretta valley, and the vallej
of Bevers, to Bevers, thus far 7 hrs.
Back by carriage-road to St. Moritz.
(d) Piz Ot (see below, Samaden). (e)
Pontresina (Rte. 96).

N.B. — Read account of the Engadine
prefixed to Rte. 95; also the descrip-
tion of the Bernina in Rte. 9G. Many
of the excursions described in them
may be made from St. Moritz or
Samaden.

Just below St. Moritz, the Inn, on
quitting the small lake, forms a pretty
fall. A little further the valley of the
Inn opens out in a straight line as far
as Zemets. The first villages passed
are Cresta, Celerina (Jiom, Schla-
rigna), and

Samaden (Rom. Samedan), the prin-
cipal and wealthiest village in the
Upper Engadine, with 500 Inhab.
(Inns : Hotel Bernina, good and com-
fortable, well kept by Mad. Panconi;
convenient head-quarters ; — Krone ;
— Piz Ot). Here are mansions of the
ancient families Salis and Planta.
Samaden is well situated in view
of the Bernina chain, and within a
short distance of the finest scenery.
It is, perhaps, the best head- quarters
for exploring its beauties and those of
the Engadine. Guides, horses, and
carriages in abundance.

Charges, — Horse to Piz Ot or Mu-
ottas-Muragl, 7 fr. Carriage, 1 -horse,
to St. Moritz Baths, 5 fr. ; Silva Plana,
6 fr.; Sils, 8 fr.; Maloja, 12 fr.; Mor-
teratsch Glacier, 7 fr. ; Bernina Pass,
12 fr.; Ponte, 4 fr. For 2 horses the
charge is about double.

^Excursions. — (a) Ascent of the
Muottas to the E. (7975 ft.), in 2^
hrs.; view mainly confined to a por-
tion of the Bernina Glaciers, and to
the upper Engadine with its lakes,

270

ROUTE 93. — COIRE TO SAM ADEN. ALBDLA,

Sect. I.,

(6) The Ascent of the Piz Ot, to the
N.N.E. (10.690 ft.), in 3J hrs. Take
a guide, as the path is not easy to
find; and provisions, as none are to
be obtained on the way. The ascent
is perhaps steeper throughout than
that of the Piz Languard (Rte. 96),
but the view from the summit is
in many respects finer, as it in-
cludes the beautiful Monte della Dis-
grazia. The ran^ of the Bemina is
presented in such different aspects
from the two summits, that pedestrians
are recommended to make both ascents.
Mules or horses might possibly be
taken half way, as far as a fountain of
delicious water that issues from under
a block of granite, but the remainder
must be mounted on foot.]

EUwdgen to Coire daily. Opposite
to Samaden, S., the valley of Pontre-
sina opens out, up which runs the road
to the Bemina (Rte. 96). The vil-
lage of Pontresma^^^m, from Samaden,
is another convenient centre from
which to explore the mountains.

ROUTE 93.

COIBE TO SAMADEN IN THE ENGADINE,
BY WEIS8ENSTEIN AND THE ALBULA
PASS.

16^ stunden = 49^ Eng. m.

This is a more interesting route than
that by the Julier pass. It is 11^ hrs.'
moderate walking from Lenz to Sa-
maden. A carriage -road was made
across it, 1865. DUigeuce daily Coire
to Samaden in 12 hrs., halting at
Berg^ to dine. As far as

15 m. Lenz^ it is identical with the pre-
ceding route. The diligence for Sa-
mdden leaves Coire at 5 a.m., so that
an active pedestrian may accomplish
the entire distance in 1 day, taKing
his place to Lenz only, or Filisur, or
perhaps even as far as the deserted
Bellaluna iron-works, 2 m. beyond
Filisur, beyond which the road is so
hiUy that little, if any, time will be

saved. At Lenz the road to the Albula
turns round the shoulder of the moun-
tain to the E., leaving Tiefenkasten
on the rt.; and passing the village of
(1 hr.) Brienz, and on the L the castle
of Belfort, perched on an almost in-
accessible rock, reaches

Alveneu, The baths of Alveneu,
on the rt. bank of the Albula, are
between 1 and 2 m. from the village.
Here is a sulphur spring and homely
accommodation. Crossing the mouth
of the Davos Thai and the stream run-
ning out of it, we follow the Albula,
ascending, in a 8.E. direction, to

9 m. Filisur, a large white and pictur-
esque village on its rt. bank, having
a marked resemblance in its pecu-
liarities to the villages of the En-
gadine. There are 2 Inns, kept by
Kisch and Schmidt. Near it, to the
N., stand the ruins of Schloss Grei-
fenstein. The inhabitants of this and
the adjoining valley emigrate from
home to various parts of Europe,
where they exercise the craft of pas-
trycooks, frequently returning hither
to end their days in opulence earned
by industry. Two mUes above Filisur
are the abandoned iron-works of Bella-
luna, and 4 miles from hence the path
enters the narrow ravine called Bergu-
ner-Stein, which, like that near Tiefen-
kasten, has been compared with the
Via Mala ; " and certainly in some
respects bears a strong resemblance,
though of far inferior extent and sub-
limity. Its outlet, however, is sin-
gularly fine." — /. F. For a distance
of more than 1000 ft. the road is
hewn, or blasted, out of the face of
the rock, and the Albula roars at a
depth of 500 or 600 ft. below. It is
about 4§ hrs. from Lenz to

Bergiin (Rom. Bergom) {Inns : the
Landamman Cloettas; Post), a village
of about 600 Inhab., chiefly Pro-
testants, speaking Romansch. The
houses in this viUage are nearly all
of- a superior class, indicating the
comparative wealth of the population,
many of whom are muleteers or carters
by profession, who established them-
selves here when this route was more
frequented. It is beautifully situated
among the mountains.

Switzerland.

ROUTE 94. — VAL BREGAQLIA,

271

A steep ascent of 2^ hrs. passing
many waterfalls, leads to the smaU
Tim of
11m. Weissengtein^ containiDg 6 beds.
There was a lake by its side, that
burst its bounds in 1859, and has
drsuned itself dry. It is said to be
possible for an active mountaineer to
cross the ridge S. of the Weissenstein
and descend by the Yal Be vers to the
high load near Samaden, but guides
are not easily to be found here
The ascent from this point is very
rapid; the path lies along the N. side
of the bed of the former lake; traces
of the Boman road may be discovered
near this. A savage ravine, filled with
broken rocks, hur&d from the heights
above, along with the avalancmes,
which render this part of the pass
dangeroTis in spring, brings the tra-
veller in about 1 hr. to •

2 m. the summit of the Pass of the AU
hda. The culminating point, marked
^j a cross, is 7680 ft. above the sea-
leFel; on the other side of it is a small
lalce. It is a scene of complete desola-
tioiL On the N. of the path rise the
two peaks of the Albula — Crap Alv,
«r White Bock ; and on the S.£. that
rfPizErr.

The descent into the Ober Enga-
diae is also at times exposed to ava-
hmches. It is 2 hrs. walk from the
snnuoit to

6iD. Pottte or Punt ( Inns : Albula ; Cou-
ronoe^ not bad). The village lies just
&t the foot of the pass, and in one of
the most striking and populous parts of
this singular vaUey. The road ascends
the vaUey of the Inn, to

5 in. Samaden, where there are good
quarters.— See Rte. 94.

ROUTE 94.

CHIAVENNA TO SAMADEN, BT THE VAX.
BREGAGLIA AND THE PASS OF THE
MALOGOIA OR MALOJA.

11^ leagues = 34} £ng. m.
Leagues. Eng. m.

Chiayeniuu
VIco Soprano
Silva Plana .
Samadeu

4 = 12
6 » 15
2i = 7*

34*

The carriage-road up the Val Bre-
gagUa is now in good order. Da-
Tigence daily in 8.^ hrs. The inns
between Chiavenna and Samaden are
not very good.

The road ascends by the rt bank
of the Malra, in face of a pretty cas-
cade formed by the Acqua Fraggia
descending from the N. About '6 nu
above Chiavenna it passes, on the
opposite side of the river, the grave
of the village of Pleurs or Piuro, bu«
ried, with its 2430 Inhab., by the
faU of Monte Conto, on the night of
the 4th of Sept. 1618. It was a beau-
tiful and thriving place, peopled by
industrious Inhab., and contained
numerous villas, the summer resort of
the citizens of Chiavenna. It now
lies beneath a heap of rocks and rub-
bish, 60 ft. deep, which fills up the
valley. Every soul within it perished,
and the long-continued excavations
of all the labourers that could be col-
lected failed in rescuing anything alive
or dead from the ruins. All traces
of the catastrophe are now nearly
obliterated, and the spot is grown
over with a wood of chestnuts.
The inhabitants received many pre-
vious warnings, which were unfortu-
nately despised. For ten years pre-
vious large crevices had existed on
that side of the mountain; and heavy
rains preceded the catastrophe, Masses
of Tock fell the day before, rents were
formed in the mountain, and the
shepherds had observed their cattle
fly from the spot with marks of ex-
treme terror.

The Val Bregaglia (Germ. Bergell)

272

ROdTE 94. — CASACCU. MALOJA.

Sect. !•

is fertile and yery picturesque: it is
shut in by high mountains. Many of
its inhabitants emigrate, and adopt the
profession of chimney-sweepers, which
they exercise in some of the large
towns of the Continent

After passing through Santa Croce
and Villa (Pontella), the road quits
the Italian territory and reaches the
Swiss frontier at

3 m. Castasegna {Inn : Schumacher's
Restaurant). Above this the white
mulberry no lon^r flourishes, and
this is tnerefore the limit of the cul-
ture of the silkworm. A little way
within the frontier (rt.) is the Castle
of Bondo, belonging to that branch of
the Salis family (Soglio) which is
settled in England. The ruined Castle
of Castelmur on the 1. bank of the
Maira is conspicuous by reason of its
tall donjon, 100 ft. high, from which
two walls, 15 ft. high and 10 thick,
descend into the gorge to the ri\er
side. The valley was formerly closed
here by a gate, and the castle formed
the key of the yalley.

6 m. Vico Soprano ( Vespran) ( Inn :
Krone), a German and Protestant
village of 504 Inhab., on the L bank
of the Maira, 3380 ft above the sea.

[The 2^ca pass leads from Vico
Soprano to the Baths of San Martino
and to Morbegno in the Valteline in
about 10 hrs. This route is not often
traversed, but is very fine. It leaves
the high road about half way to Ca-
saccia, and follows the course of the
Albigna, where there is a fine water-
fall ; it then traverses a glacier for a
short distance, and then across patches
of snow with very little track to the
head of the pass. After a very steep
descent, a solitary chalet is after some
time reached, and then the village and
baths of S. Martino in the Val Masino,
a wild and striking valley, down which
there is a good road to Morbegno.
A guide is indispensable.]

Tt m. Casaccia (^Inns fair for the
locality: Post; Agostino Zuan*s toler-
able), a village situated on the 1.
bank of the torrent, which after passing
Chiavenna flows into the Lago Mez-
zola, at the S. side of the Septimer,
and on the W. of the Maloja, over

both of which mountains the Bomajis
conducted highways in the age of
Augustus.

[The Muretto Pass leads to Sondrio
in the Valteline, either from Casaccia,
or from Maloja. The latter is the
shorter by 1 hr., and is usually fol-
lowed as far as Chiesa by those pe-
destrians who make the tour of Mt.
Bernina. From Maloja (5941 ft.) to
Pian Caning (6520 ft.) 1^ hr., follow-
ing rt. bank of stream. Leave the
GE del Fomo on rt., and keep the
track straight to the snow. This path
is frequently used by peasants. In
If hr. the top (8390 ft) is reached.
Now keep to 1. and quit the snow
when it becomes very steep. The view
of the Disg^azia is very fine. When
the path divides take the lower, and
kee]^ on 1. bank of stream to Chiareg-
gio m 2 hrs. from the top; only three
inhabited houses here. If the owner
is at home, food may be had at the
one close to the ch. Thence to Chiesa
in 3 hrs. ( Inn : Osteria Antica). Hence
to Sondrio, 7^ miles.] The Septimer
and Furcula passes are described in
Bte. 88.

Above Casaccia the Makja road is
zigzagged for 1 hour of ascent, up to
(24 m.) the Summit of the Pass (6060 ft),
a bleak and barren high table-land ;
but on the N. side the descent is so gra-
dual as not to require the skill of an
engineer. The scenery it presents is
not so grand as that on most of the

g asses in the main range of the Alps;
ut the combination of the lofty and
snow-clad summits of the Bernina,
and the glaciers descending from
them, with, the lakes, close to the
shore of which the road is carried,
gives this pass an air of singular pic-
turesqueness. Maloggia {Inn: Poste,
the first large house in the Engadine).
(Mal-Alloggio is said to be the origin
of the name. ) View from the rock op-
posite the inn, over Val Bregaglia, &^c.
A little way further the road falls in
with the infant Inn (in Romansch
Oen or £nt), here a mere torrent,
which hastens to pour itself into the
lake of SUs, a picturesoue mountain
basin, 3j m. long, extenaing as far as
Sils. l&s lake (in Bomansch Leg de

SioidzerUmd,

ROUTE 96. — ^THE ENGADD^E.

273

Seglio) is fed by the much smaller
lake of liU^i, 2 m. higher up in the
flank of Monte Lunghino, tne true
source of the Inn.

Sils, the highest village of the En-
gadine. {Inns : H. Entre-lac ; Alpen-
rose, in Sils-Maria.) The most con-
spicaoQs building here is the villa of a
ehocolate manufacturer, named Josti,
a native of I>avos, who, having quitted
Switzerland a beggar, made a large
fortune in one of the capitals of N.
Grermany, a part of which he expended
on tiiis huge and improfitable struc-
ture,

[Hence a pass leads over the Fex
Glacier to Chiesa in the Y alteline : the
foot of the glacier is 5j^ m. from Sils.
Char-road to Curtins ( 3 m.), whence
a pass leads 1. between the Caputschin
and the Corvatz to the Rosegg Glacier,
and thence to Pontresina.]

The lake of Sils is succeeded by
two other small lakes, of Silva Plana,
and of Campfeer, through both of
which the Inn passes. At

Silva Plana {Inn : Kreutz) the Ju-
lier road enters the Engadine.

The road from thence to Samaden
is described in Bte. 92.
Diligences ply in summer.

ROUTE 95.

THE ESaADlKE ; SAMADEN TO NAUDEBS,
AND THE PASS OF FINSTERMiJNZ,

16f stunden = 50 miles.

Stunden. Eng. m.

Samaden.
Naaders &i

(3.9

< 2i , U
I 6 .18

, 5i . 15i

Diligence from Samaden to Nauders.
Good carriage-road along 1. bank of
Inn to Martinsbruck. N.B. Read
before you start the account of road
between Martinsbruck and Nauders,
at end of this route. A carriage and

pair from Samaden to Innsbruck costs
240 frs., and 5 frs. a day to driver.
Time required 3 days, stopping 1st at
Schuols, 2nd at Landeck.

The Engadine (Engiadina), or Val-
ley of the Upper Inn, is nearly 60
miles long, and is one of the highest
inhabited valleys among the Alps,
varying between an elevation of 5600
ft. above the sea, at Sils, the highest
village, and 3234 ft. at Martinsbruck,
the lowest. There is no other valley
among the Alps where so many and
such large and populous villages are
to be found at so great an elevation.
It has at least 20 tributary valleys.
Owing to its elevation, and the icy
barrier of enormous glaciers which
separates it from Italy on the S., it
possesses a most ungenial, nay, severe
climate. In the language of its in-
habitants it has 9 months of winter
and 3 of cold weather. In May
1799 the French artillery crossed the
lakes on the ice. The only grain
grown in it is rye and barley, a
stunted crop ; and, in the upper por-
tion, potatoes rarely come to ma-
turity ; yet it is one of the most opu-
lent valleys among the Alps ; but the
source of its wealth must be sought
for in another theatre than the vafley
itselfk Its inhabitants are, indeed, but
little addicted to agriculture. The
surface, where not actually barei rock, is
either covered with forests or converted
to pasture, with the exception of small
patches on the lower grounds, set apart
for the plough or spade. Owing to
the want of hands the natives in-
trust the gathering of the hay-harvest
to Tyrolese and Swiss haymakers,
who repair hither at the season when
their labour is required. The sons
of the valley, for the most part, emi-
grate at an early age, scatter them-
selves over all parts of the Continent,
and may be found in most of the
great capitals exercising the profes-
sions of pastrycooks, confectioners,
distillers of liqueurs, clerks in ware-
houses, keepers of cafes, and sellers
of chocolate. Many of them, in the
exercise of their calling, acquire con-
siderable wealth, and become mil-
lionnaires in florins, with which they

N 3

274

ROUTE 95. — THE LOWER ENGADINE.

Sect. I.

retire to end their days hy the side
of the stream of their native valley.
They display their wealth especially
in the architecture of their houses,
which are distinguished by their
large dimensions, by their decorations
of whitewash and fresh paint. One
reason for their large size is that they
comprise, under one roof, barn, stable,
and cowshed. Owing to the severity
of the climate, the cattle must be
kept indoors during the 7 or 8 months
of winter. "But the unvarying
features are their magnitude and
solidity, the brilliancy of their white-
wash, and their little windows, fre-
quently only a single pane, imbedded
1^ foot in the massive stone wall,
and better adapted to exclude the
cold than to admit the light."— (J. F,)
Poverty is rare, beggary almost un-
known ; and the people, who are,
except at the village of Tarasp, Pro-
testants, are creditably distinguished
for their morality. Their pastors are
held in ereat respect, but their pay is
miserable. The sabbath is strictly ob-
served ; strangers only are allowed on
that day to ride or drive, and that not
until aner church-time.

Since 1852, when the influx of tra-
vellers began greatly to increase, great
improvements have taken place in the
accommodation for travellers, and
many new Inns have been built in
the Upper Engadine, especially at St.
Moritz, Samaden, Pontresina. In the
Lower Engadine, except at Tarasp,
the Inns are inferior, and the traveller
must sometimes content himself with
hard rye-bread, baked only once a quar-
ter, eggs, cheese, and perhaps coffee.
The universal language is the Ro^
mansch (see Rte. 66) ; but among
the returned emigrants, in almost
every village, may be found indivi-
duals speaking French, Italian, or even
English, so that it is seldom that the
stranger will not find an interpreter.
The wine of the Yalteline may be
had good and cheap. The valley
contains 10,600 Inhab.

Most of the higher Alpine pastures
of the Engadine are let out every sum-
mer to Bergamasque shepherds, from
the valleys Seriana and Brembana, on

the Italian side of the Alps — a wild,
rough set of men, but hardy andhonest,
clad in homespun • brown and white
blankets, and ^ding frugally on po-
lenta of maize-meal, and a little cheese.
They arrive about the b^inning of
July, with their flocks lean and meagre,
after their long march, performed
generally in the cool of the night.
After a solitary sojourn of nearly .'*>
months, spending often the night as
well as day in the open air among
their flocks, they return home with
fattened kine and long fleeces, which
are sold to the wool manufacturers of
Bergamo.

The upper extremity of the Enga-
dine valley, from the pass of the Ma-
loja to St. Moritz, has been described
in Rtes. 92, 94. St. Moritz is com-
fortable head-quarters for visiting the
glaciers of the Bemina, and ascend-
ing the Piz Languard; but Pontre-
sina, is nearer, and, as it now affords
good accommodation, it will be gene-
rally preferred (see Rte. 96). Le jfirese,
3 m. below Puschiavo, is becoming a
favourite resting-place. (Rte. 98.)

Leaving Sam&den by the high road,
the first village is Beversj and the
next is, .

4J m. Pmte (Tims: Albula; Krone),
where the path from the Albula (Rte.
93) falls into the valley.

The possession of the bridge over
the Inn which gives its name to this
village was desperately disputed by
the French and Austrians on the
9th March, 1799. Thejr fought for
6 hrs. in the snow, which in some
places was 5 ft. deep. Further on is

Maduleih, and over the latter vil-
lage towers the ruined Castle of Gar-
daval, built 1251 by Bp. Folkard of
Coire, to guard his estates. The story
of its capture by Adam of Camofi^ask
is a my tn.

Zutz, or Zuoz (Inns: Schweizerbund,
good beds; Kreutz), is a village of
550 Inhab. An old tower still remains
of the Stammhaus, or original castle
of the family of Planta, who, as far
back as 1139, held the Engadine in
feof. The climate here first becomes
a little milder, Zutz being sheltered

Mzabnd.

BOUTE 95. — ^ZEBNETS. s9sS.

275

firam the eold bksti descending from
theHiloja.

Bcmfs {Imi Traube) is one of the
finest ud most populous villages in
tkeit&e^. Popi 500. Here the cha-
nctentic features of the habitations
beragndnaUy to disappear. The
nUigei below this scarcely differ in
upMiirom those of Tyrol,

[On k a char-roaid to the 1. from
Bear tke mined Tower of Oapella,
sixnt ft mile below Scanfs, to Sul-
ms;iod thence to Davos, over the
^oAtti bridle-pass, 7820 flU; a dis-
tuee of about 8 hrs. The top of the
P>ss ^i marked by a hut capable of
>^bniing shelter. Diirrenboden is
1 k. beyond the top. There is a good
dMrW thence to Davos. The
Sdiwartzhom well deserves ascent. It
ttSb. climb, and N.B., from Diirren-
^ The views extend to a great

[Froni Zutz, or Scanfs, Bormlo

iB>J be reached in 11 or 12 hrs. The

F^ mounts from the latter village

■"^ydue E. into the Vol Cassana,

uilerosses the ridge at the head of

^ Tslley to Livigno (about 6 hrs.

^Scanfs), the principal village in

^ Fa/ Lioigno. Hither the Due de

Bohao, the Huguenot leader, marched,

^^^.topoonce down upon the Austri-

*iu in the Valteline. f'rom hence an

'xjpass leads in 5 hrs., by the valley

^ftdmSf to Bormio. For the Fluela

I»88 to Davos see Rte. 100.]

Ciaaschkel is the last village of

"''^^■Engadine. The Inn flows through

^ Bftrrow gorge, and near Brail the

^crosses a lofty stone bridge (Punt

^t-~Ponte Alto) over a deep ravine,

"urking Uie division between Upper

«>i Lower Engadine. The country

ijpoor,and not very interesting, while

''Inroad is much more hilly.

^fe (/nTis; Poste ; Lion d'Or;

^,*^ kept by the bear-hunter and

P^ FiU) is a considerable villaee,

^^a handsome ch. and two feudal

^iren, one of which anciently belonged

fo I branch of the Planta family, and

iscalledWildenberg. [Up the opposite

valley of Forno runs a path into the

Mimater Thai, by the Buffahra Pass—

^ 1 hours' walking. It is a tolerable

char-road. Afteraeradual ascent from
Zemetz it descends into a desolate
valley, where is a wretched inn, Ai
Fuom (2 hrs.), the only house between
the two places. The top of the pass
is reached in 2^ hrs. from this, and
a fine view is obtained of the Miinster
Thai, which is reached at Tschierf
(1^ hr.) : 2 hrs. more bring you to
Santa Maria,** '^y keeping to the S.
or rt hand branch of the stream in
ascending from Zemetz, the Yal Li-
vigno is entered. From Livigno a
pass of no difficulty leads in 5 hrs.
to Bormio at the foot of the Stel-
vio pass. By keeping up the Val
Livigno you can re-enter Switzerland,
either by a pass to the S. which takes
ou into the Bernina, or £. into the

al di Fain near Pontresina.]

About 5 m. farther is

Siiss^ a small village with a rough,
but clean, little /nn, ICrone. There is
a path over the Yereina Pass to
Elosters in the Prattigau (Bte. 98).

[Behind (N. of) Lavin {Inn : Post)
rises the Fiz Linard, 1 0,510 ft., whose
summit has been scaled (in 7^ hrs.)
only 4 or 5 times. It is said to com-
mand a ifiarvellous view over more
than fifty peaks, exceeding 8000 ft. in
height. Good euide required. The
way is by Saelialutz, Platta Mala, and
the cleft called ** Chamin " which is
ascended like a chimney, by aid of
knees and elbows.]

The names Lavin^ Zuiz, and Ar^
detZy 3 villages in this part of the
Engadine, are said to be a Komansch
corruption of the Latin Lavinium,
Tutium, and Ardea.

The villages are often perched on
the top of steep heights, as in the case
of Guarda. The new road keeps to
the foot of the hills, near the Inn,
here running in a deep chasm.

[A little below Ardetz, near which
rises the Castle Stemsberfj, visitors
bound to the villa^ of Tarasp must
cross the Inn. This is the only German
and Roman Oath, village in the Enga-
dine: it is 3976 ft. above the sea-level.
The ruined Castle on the hill above
belonged to one of the Plantas. 2 m.
lower down, on the same side (rt.
bank) of the Inn, is VtUpera, whose

276

BOUTE 96. — ^PASS OF THE BERNINA.

Beet. I.

powerful drastic mineral springs have
caused Inns and Pensions to be built.
Pension Zanoli ; Earl ; Arquint

The carriage-road descends in zig-
zags to

12 m. Tarasp (Bath-house and Hatel^
between the post-road and the river,
one of the handsomest establishments
in Switzerland, built by a company,
cost 60,000/. ; 200 rooms, 300 beds, 70
bath-cabinets supplied with the waters).
It lies in a well, as it were. It is con-
nected by a bridge with the Mineral
Springs— 2 saline-sulphureous, resem-
bling those of Kissingen and Vichy ;

2 chalybeate, nearly identical with
those of St. Moritz. Resident physician.
Carriages and horses for hire. The
Kreictzberg is a wonderful point of view.

2 m. Sohvols or Schulz {Inns: H6tel
Belvedere, in Lower Schuols; Post,
in Ober-Schuols; Helvetia), the most
populous place in the valley, contains
950 Inhab., and is gp:iindly situated,
with fine views, over the gorge of
the Inn, of the mountains beyond.
There is much corn-land near this.
Avalanches sometimes fall from the
hill of Balluns behind.

The neighbourhood of Schuols and
Tarasp is distinguished for the num-
ber and potency of its mineral waters,
rising on a line of fault between the
gneiss and mica-slate for a distance of

3 m. Not far from them, in places,
Mofettas^ or jets of carbonic acid gas,
arise, destructive to insects, mice, or
birds that approach them. Below the
old ch., 2 bridges over the Inn and the
Clemgia conduct to Tarasp vill. 3 m.

From Tarasp the Miinster Thai
may be reached by the Scarl Thai. It
is about as far as by the Buifalora
Pass. At Tschierf there is a wretched
Inn; 2 hrs. above it is Sta. Maria.]

5 ra. Remus. Near this a bridge of
wood, Ponte Piedra, crosses the gorge
of Wraunka Tobel. Above it is the
ruined castle Chiamuff, burnt by the
Austrians in 1475.

The scenery of the valley of the Inn
is grand on approaching

6^ m. MartinsbrUck (Pomartino) (Inn:
Post, Lowe), the last place in the
Engadine. [A footpath follows the I.
bank of the river into the grand gorge

of Finstermilnz.3 Here the road
leaves the Inn and takes a circuit It
is little better than a watercourse, and
so excessively steep that heavy carri-
ages must be draMm up by two yoke
of oxen, and 1^ hr. is required to per-
form the stage. Travellers should
write or telegraph on to Martinsbruck
to have oxen m readiness and save
time. You ascend a wooded eminence,
the boundary between Switsex^and and
Tyrol, and enter the Augtrian JFSroniier
a short while before

3^ m. Nauders {Inn: Post, tolerable),
1 m. from the defile of Finstermlina,
(See Handbook for South Oermany,)

BOUTE 96.

PASS OF THE BERNINA, FEOX SAliABBK
IN THE ENOADIKE, BY P0NTRE6INA,
TO TIRANO IN THE VALTELINE.

13^ stunden = 40 miles.

Stoaden. Eng. m.
Samfiden.
PoDtresina ..... li . 4i ^
Bernina Inns .... 2 . 6

Puschiavo 6i . 19i

Tirano 3t • 10

A carria^e-road, in part very well
constructed, has been completed. Di-
ligence daily from Samaden to Pus-
chiavo in 7^ hrs., to Tirano in 10 hrs.
On foot the distance may be shortened
some 5 miles. This pass offers several
magnificent views.

Between Samaden and Puschiavo
very good accommodation is to be
found at Pontresina where also re-
sides one of the few good guides fav
the Engadine, Colani, a miller and a
good shot.

The Bernina Alps are a very loftv
and grand chain of mountains, sepa-
rating the valleys of the Engadine
and of Bregaglia on the N., from the
.Valteline on the S. The highest,
called Piz Bernina, and also, though
incorrectly, Piz Mortiratsch, is 13,297
ft. in height. 5 or 6 other peaks ex-
ceed 12,000 Eng. ft These form, after
the great chain of the Pennine Alps,
the Dauphin^* and the Bernese Alps,
the loftiest range in Europe. Their
glaciers have I^en very imperfectly

Mzerland,

ROUTE 96. — ^PASS OP THE BERKINA.

277

Seyeral arduoug passes
cross the chain.
Fhun Samdden (Bte. 92) the road
terns S., ascending the Val Pontre-
sou, by the rt bank of the torrent
^. [There is a footpath from St.
Horitx to Fontresina, which crosses
the 1m between the lake and the
viMI^ god leads by a pool and

the " ""

^ a wood over the shoulder of

t|nl0iipar between the Inn and the

There are fir forests in this

70OO feet above the sea-level,

consisting of the Pinus cem-

hirma {Inns: ]^one, good, very
^ liTing, noisy at nig^ht ; Weisses
jwiti, also good and reasonable;
iZmnGletscher, J m. from the vil-
%, Tery clean) — a considerable vil-
^; £ut becoming to the Bernina
^Zermatt is to Mte. Rosa; seated
*'Jfce foot of a snow-capped moun-
j-Djit the junction of two glacier-
felled valleys, 5566 ft. above the sea-
2^ It is 4 m. from the valley of
^ Ino. Chars and guides may be pro-
JN here at a bureau established in
«e jUiige. There is now a regular
Worall the excursions, upwards
"""fty in number. Jenni is a first-
J^^piide ; so is Enderlin, host of the
^^ There is an excellent view of
fflefiosegg Glacier and peaks from the
IJ^ adjoining the ch. at the back
^ village, Saraz's collection of
^ animals is exceedingly inte-
ip?& From this place, from St.
*^. or from Le Prese, Excursions
^bemade to many objects of in-
?**• The most attractive excur-
^fom Pontresina is
* The ascent of the Piz Languard.
Jaesmomit, 10,724 ft. above the
"^ttmore easily reached than most
^ of at all equal height, and the
^"^a one of the finest in the
"T^chain of the Alps. It not only
f ""fles the whole of Eastern Switzer-
^ and part of the Tyrol, but in
jJT clear weather is said to extend to
^oateEosa and Mont Blanc. Horses
'^ybe taken 2-3rds of the way to the
TT^ (charge 7 fr. and trinkgeld
fuieboy who remains to take care
^ ^^^' A guide (charge 7 fr.) is

necessary, except for thoroughly-
practised mountaineers; he will carry
provisions and some extra covering to
wear while resting at the top. The
ascent requires 3 hrs.; the descent
may be made in 2^ hrs. or less. A
panoramic view, from a point a little
oelow the summit, has been executed
by the Leipzig painter Georgi, who
had a hut constructed for the purpose.
Mountaineers may vary the descent
by crossing the Fuorkla Glacier (to
the S.E.), and over La Pischa into the
Val de Fain (d), and so to Pontresina
in 6 hrs.

6. The Eosegg or Rosetsch Glacier
is reached through the Posetsch Thai
or Val Posana, There is a rough char-
road nearly to the foot of the glacier,
2^ hrs. from Pontresina. The glacier
itself is very easy to walk upon, and
ladies may with safety spend an agree-
able day in explormg its beauties.
A longer and more fatiguing excur-
sion tor active pedestrians may be
made to a green alp called **Ag^g-
liouls" (middle point), which is on
the summit of the mass of rock sepa-
rating the two glacier streams. A
guide is necessary. A circle of snowy
peaks, not visible from elsewhere at
the same time, surrounds this Alp ;
the Tschierva, Mortiratsch, Bernina,
Rosegg, Sella, Capiltschin, and Piz
Corvatsch. [The Fuorkla Pass, said
to be not very difiicult, turns off
to the rt. about 20 min. before
reaching the glacier from Pontre-
sina, and leads thence in 6 hrs. to
Silva Plana. The col is just above
a large black rock, which is visible
from Silva Plana in a S.E. direction,
and is an excellent landmark to tra-
vellers from that side. This pass is
to be recommended for its view of the
Bernina range.3

c. The Mortiratsch G lacier {seehelow)
is the largest in the Bernina chain.
The carriage-road passes within 1 m.
of its foot. An active pedestrian may
combine a visit to this glacier with the
Pass of the Bernina, reaching Pus-
chiavo in the evening.

d. The Val de Fain, on the S. side of
the Piz Languard. The scenery is very
fine, and many rare plants arc fomid

SuMtzerlcmd.

ROUTE 96. — ^PASS OP THE BERN15A.

279

there. The la Stretta pass leads from

thence into the Val Livigno, and 60 to

Zemetz or to Bormio (see Bte. 95). By

uiuther pass to the N. it is possible

to Teach I'oiite, and, retumin&r to Sa<

mfiden or Pontresina, complete the

tour of ^ Fiz Lauguard in 1 day.

e. The Diavolezza^ ascending the

MortiratKh Glacier (or the rocks

at the ade of it, and then taking

the ice) as for as BoTal, and the

jimetion of the Yadret Pers, where

there is a curious island of rock

jnttiiig oat of the ice — ^ the Jardin "

of this district — called laola Pers, com-

mandrnga magnificent view. Moun-

tameers may cross the Pers glacier

towards the foot of Mont Pers, and,

sscendiog along a wearisome slope of

debris, succeeded by a rough bit of

rockwork, reach the Col of the Dia-

tH)2(22a, between that peak and Mont

Pers.

View magnificent. Descend by a
steep bit of glacier to a remarkable
hollow containing a lovely blue lake,
into which huge masses of ice pre-
cmitate themselves from the glaciers
OT Mont Pers, 800 ft. above. Then
hesr down to 1, and descend to Ber-
nua Inm. A most striking excur-
sioQ: may be taken the reverse way —
starting from Bemina Inns.

In ascending by the high road to

the Beraina Pass the great glacier of

Mortiratsch is passed almost cK)se to the

Tosd, about an hour above Fontresina.

It fills to its mouth the lateral valley

in which it lies; seeming to be kept

in bj a fir-clad ridge of rock, which,

with the exception of a slight cleft in

the midcile, completely closes the eu-

traooe of the yaUey. Being squeezed,

ts it were, upwards, in consequence

of the opposition to its longitudinal

expansion offered by this obstruction,

it rises to a good height above its

fringe of trees. This glacier is of the

hrgest size, and has an immense cen-

trai moraine. Its head is encircled

by a number of snowy peaks, among

roem the Piz Mortiratsch and the

Palu.

The glacier may most easily be
reached from its eastern side, whence,
after a certain distance, there \a no

difficulty in descending on to the ice
and crossing to the opposite side.

^oad over the Bemina Pass.

20 min. walk above the highest
houses of Pontresina, near a saw-mill,
is a fine waterfall formed by the
stream from the Languard.

In 2 zigzags the road surmounts
a projecting rock of granite. [Just
below this the old road, diverging rt.,
leads by a bridge over the Bernina
stream to the Mortiratsch Glacier
(see above).3

By the high road the great glacier
of Mortiratsch is passed close on the
rt., 1 hr. above Pontresina. It fills to
its mouth the lateral valley in which
it lies; being restrained by a fir-clad
rid^e, which, with the exception of a
cleft in the middle, closes the valley.
It rises to a height above its fringe of
trees. This glacier is of the largest
size, and has an immense central mo-
raine. It may most easily be reached
from its eastern side, whence, t^ter a
little, there is no difiiculty in descend-
ing on to the ice and crossing to the
opposite side. Bt. of the road. Falls
of the Bemina.

6 m. Bernina Inns — 3 cabarets in a
desolate place, 1^ hr. below the sum-
mit, at the mouth of 1. the Yal de
Fain. Halt of mules.

[7b the Baths of Bormio. Foot-path.
Turn to L just past the Bernina ch&lets,
cross the stream, follow path up Val
del Fain to Col of La Stretta, 2^ hrs.
Path down, at first steep and fairly
marked ; cross to rt. bank by first
bridge after the junction of two
streams; recross aoout 1 hr. before
Livigno, 2f hrs. (/«» .- Battista Bor-
mellini's house, nearly through the
village, on 1. side, Ko. 8, the only
nlace where anything to eat can be
nad during the day.) From Livigno
to Trepalie over a steep hilL the top
marked by a crucifix, 1 hr. 5 min.
The cure, who lives in the Casa Pa-
rocchiale, close to the church, is ex-
ceedingly obliging — wine and liqueur
to be had there. From TrepaJle to
top of Foscagno 1 hr. 10 min. — N.B.
Go 100 yards to rt. of path on summit
in ord^r to have a clear view down

280

EOUTE 96. — ^PASS OF THE BERNIHA.

Sect. L

Val Semogo; regain the path without
retracing your steps. From top
always take the lower road, keeping
as near the river as possible on the 1.
bank. At Isolaccia cross to the rt.
bank ; recross by the next bridge.
Just before entering Premaglio turn
to the 1., and do not cross the torrent
that comes down from the Stelvio till
a little past the Forge. From top of
Foscagno to baths of Bormio, 3 hrs.]

3J m. The Summit (new Inn, 1867),
7695 ft. above the sea-level, lies be-
tween 2 small lakes, the Black (Leg
Nair), which discharges into the Inn,
and the White, fed by glaciers, which
runs into the Adda. Near the Logo
Bianco the new road turns off to the
L, and, crossing the neighbouring
ridge of the Camin, passes down by

5^ m. La Husa (a poor mountain
Inn\ and

8 m. Pisciadella, into the beautiful
valley of Puschiavo.

[To Bormio by the Val Viola pass,
6 hrs. Leave the high road L below
La Eusa (if ascending, below Piscia-
della), and ascend the Valle di Campo,
which leads to the Val Viola, a con-
tinuation of it at a higher level. Be-
fore reaching Val Viola the path
branches (1. up the Val Agone to
Livigno) : our route is straight on, and
leads over the 1. of the head of Val
Viola. Descending N., the path is
well traced, and meets the char-road
at Isolaccia, 6 m from Bormio.]

[The old path is continued along
the rt. (W.) margin of the lakes, pass-
ing close to them for about 3 m., with
the Cambrera glacier descending close
upon it from the Bemina. The stream
wich issues from the lakes falls too
precipitously into the valley to be fol-
lowed by the track, and accordingly the
path takes a sweep to the rt., turning
a shoulder of the mountain, and thus
accomplishing the 1st staee of the de-
scent at a small hamlet called Cavaglia,
with a miserable auberge. Bears are
not at all uncommon here. At this
part of the road you obtain a mag-
nificent view over the glacier of
PalHy one of the most beautifully
formed glaciers which can be seen in
Switzerland. These glaciers give an

interest to this path far superior
to that by La Kusa. Hence the
stream makes another rapid descent
to the level of Puschiavo, of which,
and of the beautiful lake beyond, a
fine prospect is opened during' the
2nd descent. The track lies over
ledges of rock, and down narrow
watercourses. The main road, which
is excellent, is entered a short distance
above Puschiavo.

This route, however, is so full of
obstructions and difficulties, that
horsemen generally prefer the circuit
by Pisciadella, though it adds 5 m. to
the journey.]

5 j m. Puschiavo (Inns': Croix Fede-
rale, or Croce Bianca, good and rea-
sonable, a curious old house; H.
Albricci), a town of 3000 Inhab., built
in the Italian fashion, the principal
place in the valley, is mainly sup-
ported by the considerable traffic of
voods through it. Bom. Cath. Ch.,
date 1494. Above it, on a height,
stand the ruins of the castle of OligatL

Nearly one-third of the inhabitants
of this populous valley are Protest-
ants ; but owing to the jealousy of
the Roman Catholics, their church is
almost a fortress, and capable of de-
fence a^inst attacks. The language
spoken Dy them is a corrupt Itauan.

About 3 m. lower down, the road,
which is here excellent, skirts the W.
margin of the charming little lake of
Puschiavo, famed for its large trout

Le Prese, beautifully situated near
the N. end of the lake, is frequented
for its charming situation, its sunny
climate, and sulphureous waters. Tha
Bathing establishment is well managed
and reasonable (Pension 6 fr.). The
baths, lined with marble, are well
kept, and many Lombard visitors re-
sort to this place.

6 J m. Brusio is the last Swiss village.
On quitting the lake, the torrent Pus-
chiavo passes through a very nar-
row defile, barely allowing room for
the road and the stream. It is a
raging torrent, and, as it approaches
the Adda, requires to be restrained
within stone dykes of solid masonry,
which have nevertheless proved insuf-
ficient to protect its banks from inun-

Smtzeriand.

ROUTE 98. — THE PRATTIGAU.

281

Mm. Beyond this, the Valteline, or
Tale of the Adda, opens out at

3 m. Madonna di Tirana (Inn, zur
MidoiiBa, good). See Handbook for
Soiift (jwnvmy.

An ictive pedestrian taking the
slMrteat by Cavaglia may reach
Pontresiaa from hence in 10 hrs. —
3 lin.toPnschiayo, 4 hrs. to summit
<rflJMi,3hr8. to Pontresina.

[Die circuit of the Bernina range
^ybe made from Puschiavo or L e
Pi^kf crossing the Canciano pass
to Ckiesa in Italy, and thence by the,
JfBwttopass to Malloja. The Can-
ciwo commences 1 m. from Le Prese,
oppoaJe a stone bridge, which crosses
Je »&eam by which the road from
PiaeliiaTo runs. It ascends the hill
"P''''y»and, after passing some scat-
jewd cottages, goes below a waterfall,
J About this point the traveller can
"*tect the gap in the ridge which
"»fks the summit of the pass. The
IWfl soon crosses the stream close to
»clial€tand bam, and little trace of
[j^ns. Itbears, however, towards
"brocks upon the rt., and, after
*«iBg the summit, continues on the
JJ^the stream below. The descent
^d is rough, and partly in very
jwp rigzags somewhat resembling
y«6emmi. At the foot of it lies
^^ and i hr. further Chiesa
J^Osteria Antica, poor enough).
^^tune required is 8^ to 9 hrs. No
'•^ of refreshment can be procured
2«evay. From Chiesa to the Enga-
JJJy the Muretto pass, Rte. 94;

*~ ina to Puschiavo, Rte. 96.]

ROUTE 98.

Tin"
"^PlUTtlGAU— COIRE OR RAGATZ TO

Suss IN THE ENGADINE.

Stiinden. Eng. m.

Sf "■ • • •

* • . . «

Thi

15
7*
24

s route lies through an unfre-
\^^ hut not uninteresting dis-
^* A few day^ jnay be well spent

in exploring the mountains at the
head of the Prattigau. The ascent
begins either from the Zizers Stat,
or from Malans, near the Landquart
Stat., on the Coire Bly. Diligence from
the Stat, by good carriage-road up the
valley as far as Klosters, and thence
into the Davos Thai, in 7^ hrs. to
Davos-Platz. The pedestrian will pre-
fer to start from

Maldns, a village of 1054 Inhab.,
overlooked by several ruined castles,
the chief of which is Schloss Bodmer,
one of the numerous castles be-
longing to the De Salis family,
and situated near the mouth of the
Prattigau (Rom. Val Part^nz). The
entrance of that valley is through the
narrow gorge or defile of Klus, giving
passage to the waters of the Land-
qtiart, a furious torrent which tra-
verses the valley. This pass was once
commanded by the castle Fragstein,
whose ruins are still visible ; a wall,
extending down to the Landquart,
once closed the passage into the valley.
The valley, 20 m. long, abounds in fine
scenery, is shut in by high mountains
and glaciers, is nowhere of any ex-
panse, but rich in pasture-land, and
famed for its large breed of cattle.
It contains a population of about
10,000, who all speak German, though
Romansch was the language down
the 16th cent., and the names of
places are still all Romansch. The
rt. or N. side of the valley is
occupied by the Alpine chain of the
Bhastikon, which separates it from
the Vorarlberg and from the vale of
Montafun. Its most remarkable sum-
mits are the Falkniss, overlooking the
Rhine, the Scesa Plana (9207 ft.), the
highest on the N. side of the valley.
The Piz Linard (11,420 ft.) and other
mountains unite this chain with that
to the N. of the Inn, which forms the
division or watershed between the
North Sea and the Euxine, as the
Bernina chain on the S. separates the
waters flowing to the Euxine from
those flowing to the Adriatic. Seve-
ral passes lead N. from the Prattigau
into the Vorarlberg.

[The ascent of the Scesa Plana
(7136 ft.), the highest peak m the

282

BOUTS 99^ — OaiRE TO DATOS-PLAZ.

Sect.!.

Ktwrtikon diiint nutT be mde^ bnt
onhr with a guide, from

wwtf (Hotel and Poisioii Seesa
Plaaa), situated high above the Tale of
the Laodqiiart to the N.I

The road aaeends on the rt bank of
the Laadqoart toSc/den (Krone lnn\
and then eroeses to the L bank of the
torrent^ paasing

Jenatz CHeinu' /an). ) hr. farther
u*Niggli'i/iM,atFideriMrAii. The
village oTFideiia standa on a height
2 m. oiT the road, and is not Tisible
from it.

A rerj bad road leads to the Bcdht
of FidenSf 2 nu S. of the village, in a
wild and romantic gorge, not onlike
thatofPfaffers. The baths, considered
eflicacions in chest complaints and in-
termittent fevers, are supplied by seve-
ral alkaline springs, the strongest of
their class in Switzerland, and strongly
resembling Seltzerwater. The visitors,
almost exclusively Swiss, are received
in two Bath-houses^ capable of lodging
more than 200 persons.

The accommodation at the Baths
is quite second-rate, although the
baths are often crowded to excess,
and the landlord has made a fortune
by them ; however, the table-d*hdte
is well supplied.

On the rt. bank of the Landquart,
opposite Fideris, rises the ruined castle
of Castels, which was stormed and
taken, in 1622, by the peasants, armed
with sticks alone, from the soldiers
of the Emperor Ferdinand, who at
that period wanted to make himself
master of the passes of the Grisons,
to extinguish tne Protestant religion
in this country, and to seize and banish
its ministers. A path leads S. in 3^
hrs., over the mountains, into the
Schalfikthal.

The carriage-road up the rt. bank
of the Landquart traverses a romantic
defile, wooded and rocky, and through
that picturesque village of old houses.

Kvbiis. Instead of following , the
old road, it is pleasanter, though not
shorter, to take a path near the village
of Semens, passing the Baths ofSemeus
r/n«), frequented by natives. Very
lair accommodation may be had there.
About 1 league farther is I

Klotiers (FnM: HirsehV, a scattered

village chi^y of new houses, named

after a suppressed Convention tke rt.

' bank of the Landquart, 37U0ft. above

the sea. The ch. and the Hirsch are

[at Am Plats. The vaUev totheS. is

I closed by the Selvretta glacier.

Hence there are 2 ways : — a. the
• direct pass over the Verema, 8 hrs.
I good walking; guide required. 6. by
' the Floela pass.

A char may be hired for 5 fins, to
Davos Plax, 2| hrs. drive, 3}hn. walk.
It turns nearly S^ and after a long
ascent, mounting in zigzags, passing
I rt. a small lake, crosses the sumnut^
j and, descending, passes L a larger
I lake. At Dorfli the valley and pass
of the Fliiehi (Bte.lOO) is reached
Davos Plaz, in Ete. 99,

ROUTE 99.

COIBE TO DAY06-PLAZ AND KLOSTERS

PASS OF THE STRELA.

** The Schalfig Thai (before the
mouth of which Coire is built, on the
banks of the Plessikr, which issues firom
it) leads up to this pass. The path
runs along the heights on the rt. of the
river ; and after a continuous ascent
of nearly an hour from Coire, reaches
Mcdaders, the first village of the val-
ley. The Col of the Strela is visible
from this point, but 7 hrs. more will be
required to surmount it The Schalfig
Thai is a very extraordinary val-
ley. There are no villages in its bed:
all are on the mountains, at a vast ele-
vation above the Plessiir, and having
apparently no communication with one
another. From Maladers to Lang-
wiesen, a distance of nearly 5 leagues,
the path can scarcely ever be less than
1000 feet above the river. It passes,
on its way, through several villages,
occupying tracts of ground on the
tops of spurs or promontories pro-
jecting from the northern mountains,
and divided from one another by
lateral ravines, which have to be
dipped into and doubled round. To
the S. of t)ie river, and also on the

^mkad.

ROUTE 100. — PLAZ TO silSS.

283

Wi, where the Jalier road runs, the
character of the country is of a similar
kini One of the finest views of the
Scbalfig Thai is from Calfreisen, a
'^ with an ancient tower crowned
with trees. The snowy mountains of
tjeKalfeuser Thai are seen through
themeningof the valley.

"Tbelioasesin the Schaiag Thai are
^illHDlt At St. Peter's and Lang-
)"«en, the parsonages are marked by
^Pti(»s,and the school-house at

«»« has, besides, a few verses on its

*U^ikm is reached in 5^ hours
"^Coire; in 21 more the col is
g^Ae last half-hour being stiff
vorkin agzags. The height of the
PfB nearly 7700 ft. From it the
m coarse of the Schalfig Thai,
«Je Galaada, the Alps of the Kal-
?"» Thai, may be seen. The view
^""e other direction is best seen
Y"" > short descent, and comprises
J" jesDinmits of the chain towards
"J^gidine, from the valley of the
^ to the Tyrolese frontier, in-
JJfagPizLmard (11,420 ft.), over
?*"^line of peaks from the side
'jJEngadin.

c j^P descent of an hour from the
oiWabrings one to '*

jjs or Datos (Rom. Tavoise, be-

^^"w: H. zur Strela, on the

fj''7fi^(whey cure) ; the Rath-

2 ^ » primitive inn, was for-

J*y ^orated with more than 30

lTT ^eads slain in the neighbour-

^S^j'^fof the prevalence of these

gjf* A wolf-net (wolf-game) is

vt}^ up here, but the animals

"?J*fly disappeared.

.^*DaTos-that below Flaz, retains

jjjjj'**! character as far as Glaris.

^2"* down it is much contracted,

. J^Schmelzboden were formerly

^^ and silver works.

wT^ is a central point, towards

JIJJ many paths converge. De-

?5|«ngthe vaUey, Frauenlurche, the

r^aus of Spina, and the village of

'ians, are successively passed; and

;«road of the Albula (Rte. 93) may

; '^^fW at Alveneu in less than

^' by a char-road, but a very bad

«» more fit for mules. At Alveneu

begins the good carriaee-road over
the Albula. Pedestrians Dound for the
Albula Pass should avoid Alveneu, and
inquire for a path leading direct to
Filisur. The Engadine may oe reached
by the Fluela Pass (Rte. 100), or by
the more laborious pass of the ScalettOy
to Scanfs (Rte. 95) in 10 hrs.

The way to EJosters is over a very
low and easy pass, traversed by a
good char-road. The distance is about
10 m., and the chars (price 4 fr.) take
2^ hrs. The chalets at the summit
are called St. Wolfgang, In ascending,
the road passes a small lake call^
the Davos See; on the other side
another, still smaller, is called the
Schwarze See.

Davos am Platz to Ragatz is a
drive of 6 hrs. Dil. daily at 10 a.m.
through Kiiblis (where it stops 2 hrs.
for dinner) to Landquart, a station
between Chur and Ragatz. It arrives
in time for the last train to Zurich.

ROUTE 100.

PLAZ TO SttSS, BT THE PLUELA PASS.

A carriage-road is to be made over
the Fluela.

The valley leading up to this pass is
entered at Dorfli, about a mile above
Plaz, in the Davos Thai. The path
runs on the rt. bank of its stream
nearly the whole way, crossing to the
other side only for a very short time,
when about half the length of the val-
ley has been traversed. The ascent
is easy throughout, and the path dis-
tinctly marked. There is little re-
markable in the scenery, which is of
a wild and drearv nature. There is a
rude Inn, called Tschuggen, about
2 hrs. from Plaz, and just half way
to the summit The summit of the
Fliiela (7900 fL) is a small plain oc-
cupied by two pools, and within 4
hrs. walk from Davos. [The Schwarz-
horn, which separates this pass from
the Scaletta (Rte. 95), well deserves
ascent from here.]

After a gradual descent for a time

284

ROUTE 101. — BLUDENZ TO THE PRATTIGAU.

Sect. I.

towards the S., a wild barren valley is
overlooked, running down from W. to
E. The path, crossing the river and
turning to the 1., is conducted along the
mountain side above this valley, into
which it descends by degrees. It then
follows the 1. bank of the stream for
4^ m., only crossing to the rt. a little
distance above Siiss, where it joins the
road of the Engadine. Siiss is a good
2A hours* walk from the top of the
Fluela. (SeeRte. 95.)

6^ or 7 hrs. are required to reach
Siiss from Davos. 4 hrs. from Siiss
will take the traveller to the Baths of
Tarasp.

ROUTE 101.

BLUDENZ, IN VORARLBERG, TO THE PRAT-
TIGAU, BY THE PASS OF THE SCHWEIZ-
ERTHOR.

A very fine and interesting pass,
especially suited to mountaineers as
an agreeable alternative to the ordi-
nary way round by road. Guides
may be found at Brand.

About 9 or 10 hrs. walk.

Leaving Bludenz (/nn. Post, see
Handliook for South Germany), and
crossing the stream by a bridge, a
shady road leads to the village of
Bursj where there is a fine gorge worth
visiting even by those not bound moun-
tainwards. Bearing to the rt., the
ascent commences at once by a zigzag
road through a pretty forest, the vil-
lage of Burseberg soon appearing on
the rt. It is a constant ascent, com-
manding very fine views of the gorge
of the Alvierbach and over Bludenz
and the mountains of the Yorarlberg
behind, and of the glaciers of the
Scesa Plana before, all the way to

2| hrs. Brand (decent little Inn). A
little above Brand the stream is
crossed and some chalets reached, be-
yond which the ascent is rougher,
the path taking an abrupt turn to
the 1., and the valley blocked at the
upper end by a vast wall of rock 1000
ft. high, extending straight across
from the mass of the Scesa Plana to

the precipices of the Zimbaspitz.
Path crosses stream several times
until close to the foot of the wall,
when it finally crosses to a steep
slope of debris, fallen from the Scesa
Plana on the rt., up which the ascent
lies. From this point it is a very
stiftj fatiguing climb of fully 1 hr. to
the top of the rocky wall, on reach-
ing which a curious sight presents
itself Occupying, as it were, a sort
of crater, and enclosed on all sides by
crags and precipices, a lake,

1^ hr. the Lvner See, about 1 m. in
extent, is discovered some 150 fi.
below the path on the other side of
the wall, the waters of wl^ich are
carried off by 2 subterranean outlets
through the rocky barrier which
rises from 50 to 200 ft. above the level
of the lake. Fine view to the N.

[From this point the Scesa Plana
may be ascended in 4 hrs., view ex-
tremely grand, over Suabia, Rhine
valley. Lakes of Zurich and Wallen-
stadt, Alps of Appenzell, Berne,
Tyrol, to Ortler. Should this ascent
be combined with the pass, it would
be advisable to sleep at Brand the
previous night.]

Path continues roimd the lake till
the opposite side is reached; then
ascent continues, keeping to the rt,
until Col is reached, from which splen-
did view over all the Orison and Gla-
rus Alps. •

2 hrs. 6 full hrs. of constant ascent
from Bludenz. Descent at first steep
grass, then hopeless bog, until reach-
ing chd.lets in 1 hr. From this point
the path is peculiar. Instead ot p^'
lowing the course of the stream (down
which, however, it is possible but not
easy to force a way), it strikes to th«
rt., ascending and keeping close to the
Scesa Plana, in order to avoid several
torrents descending from that moun-
tain. Path bad, boggy, and confosio^i
but after a while the true descent w
observed on the opposite side of the
last torrent, which is reached in 1 ^'
from the ch&lets; crossing stream bv
a bridge, a very bad road (in course of
improvement) conducts, in 1 hr., to

Seewis, in Prattigau (^Inn, Scesa
Plana), Rte. 98.—/. G, S.

( 266 )

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND.

lA.

-J^^ 108,109

^.riTer,8,io, 15, 17, 77,9?,
9$.9itiioniceo<;99. Glaciers,

— ijaactionoC with Idminat

«dRaaa,n

^8,151

Ajttfance, cold', 194
■J««.nvrr,28o

^*8i«hl»ra, X05. Excur-
•w from, 106

^y. fttrfaaor, hut of, 99 ;
jyni of. 15 J ; on glAciers,

inngaiy, 17, 28
4ir7r-«.xlviii,liiL

"*J*trf Angtria, assassinated

^;inageof,i32
iJtalf*47

^.-nn.48

ilnk

I**, 205

jy rtver, 256. 268, 270.
#^.6aUeri;d',202

Jj;r8*^ic9

fjw>ee,224

fflpstock, xxxiv

Alpine travelling, dangers of,

f pinula, Julia, xyo

Alpnach, 66. Lake of, 66.

Slide of. 66
iLPS, panoramas of, zxxviii.

AVBN90N.

Near views of, xxzix. Roads
over, 1

Alt St Johann, 227

Altels, I JO

Altorf, 114

Altstetten, 48, 21?, 224

Alveneu, 270

Amberieo, 164

Ambuhl, no

Amden, i8

Amedeos VIIL of Savoy, 19;

AmmertenthaU 126

Amphion, 194

Amsteg. 115

to Dlsentls, 249

Andeer, 258

to Gtwaccla, 262

Andelflngen, 28

An der Lienk, Xi6

Andermatt, 117

Andermatten, 208

Anet or ins, 151

Annlviers, 198

Antigurio, val, 208

Atizemdai!!, 196

Afpknzell CAiiTON, 221. Vil-
lage, 224

Appenzell *to St. Gall, 224

Arbedo, 122

Arbon, 27

Ardet2, 275

Ardon, 192

Arenenberg, 24

Argovie, 16

Army In Switzerland, xlix

Arnold of Brescia at Zurich, J2

Arona, 198

Arth, 41 ; ascent of the Bigi
from, 42

Ajto, Junction with the Rhone,

X7J
Attiughausen, X09, 114

Aubin, St.. 156

Aubonne, 178

Aue, 240

Auf der Fliih, castle of, 108

Aufder Fruth, 207

Aufnau, isle of, }$

Augst, 20

Aulph, 194

Auvemler, 156, 161

Avalanches, Ixlil, 86, 98, 119

Avouches, 149

Avenvon, river, 195

BATHS.

Avent» 195, X97
Aventicum, 149
Aversa, val, 262
Axen Strasse, 64
Ayent, 137

Baar, 40

Bach Alp, 90

Bacbtel, 36

Baden, 18

Badermoos, 140

Bale. 1-6

Balliswyl, X44

Balmwand, 140

Balzers, 221

Barnard, views of Switzerland*

xl
Basel, x-6

Baslb, X. Cathedral, 2. Coun-
cil of; 2. Dance of Death, 2.

Collection of the works of

Holbein. 3, Public Ubrary,

3. University, 3. Rath-

haus, 4. History, 5. Rail-
ways, 5. Environs, 5
Basle to Berne, by the Mfinster-

thai, 6

by rail, 15

to Schaff hausen and Cbn-

stance, 19
to Soleure and Bienne, by

rail, 9

to Lucerne, 12

to Zurich, x6

Basle Campagne, 5
Bassecourt. 9
Baths generally, 1
Baths—

Alveneu, 270

Andeer, 258

Baden, 19

Bernardino, St., 266

Crodo, 209

Fideris, 282

Gals, 221

Grange (Grenchen), X2

GumlgeU 142

Heinrichsbad, 225

Lavey, 189

Leuk, 1)1

Maritno, S., 272

Moritz, St., 269

Murgiu, 194

286

INDEX TO smrZERLAKD.

BATHS.

Baths—

Nydelbad, 3$.

Pelden, 25J

PfeflFers, 214

l*res^, le, 280

Reichenbach, 92

Ilosenlaai, 92

Schintznach, 16

Serneus, 282

iStachelberg, 2j6

Weissenburg, 1^9
H&tie» castle of la, 190
Battles—

Arbedo, 122

Bodio, 121

ButtLdiolz, 15

JX)niach, 6

(irandson, 156

8t Jacob, 6, 12

Kappel, 48

I-iaupen, 144 ~

Morat, 149

^lorgarten, 230

Nafels, 2J4

iSampach, 14

Zurich, 29
Jiears of Berae, 75
Beatus, Sl, 80
Beckenried, 62, 67
Becktstock, 2i^
Bedretto, val, 120, 209. Ham*

let, 210
Bel Air, 18 1
•— Alp, 107
Bellalnna, 270
Bell^^rde, 164, 174
Bellelay, 9
Bellerive, 6
Bellimona, 122, 267
Beresal, 200
Bergnn, 270

Bei^unerstein pass, 270
Berliogen, 24

Bernardino, St., pass, 264. Vil-
lage, 266
Berne, 72. History of, 77.

Fountains, 7^. Clock. 7J.

Bernese Alps, 74. Minster,

74. Museum, 74. Library,

75. Charitable Institutions,
75. Bundes Ratbhans, 75.
Bears, 75. Promenades, 77.

to Thun, 78

to Lausanne (and Vevay),

by Freyburg, 144

to Lausanne by Morat, 148

* to Lucerne, 71, 72

to Neuch&tel, 151

Bernese Oberland, the, 77

Beminapass, 276, 279. Alps, 276

Bertha, queen of Burgundy, 150

Beithier, Marshal, 156

Bettelmatt, 207

Bevatx, 156

Bevers, 274. Val, 271

Bevieux, 195

Bex, 187

— — to Sion, by theDiablerets,

Beza, Theodore, 17a

BRIENZ.

Biasca, 122

Biberbrticke, 228

Biberegg, 2^1

Bied, 159

Biel, 8

Bienne, 8

* to Basle, 9

*■ to Berne, 9

, to Neuchfttel, 155

to Yverdun, 155

Bienne, lake of, 155

Bietschbom, 125

Bifertenbach, 237

Bifertenstock, 2^7

Bignasco, 208

BlUiat, 164

Binnen, 205

Binnenthal, 205

Birr, 18

Birg, valley of the, 6, 12.
Source of, 7

Bisi Thai, 2;8

Bivio, or Stalla, 268

Black Forest, 20

Bliize, St., 156

Blakenstock, 109

Blankenbnrg, castle, 140

Blegno, val, 252

Bltnnen, valley, 20J

Blonay, castle, 182

Bludenz, 284

— — to the PrattigatL, 284

Blumlis Alp, 124

Boccareccio pass, 206

Bocke,4o

Boden See, 26

Bodio, 121

Bodmenalp, 224

Bodmer, castle, 281

Boghy, gorge of, 109

Boltigen, 140

Bondergrat, 129

Bondo, castle, 272

Bondoler, val, 206

Bonnivard, 185

Bonstetten, 48

Bormio, 275, 279

Botanical gardens : Berne, 7; ;
Geneva, 168; Zorich, jt

Botzlingen, 114

Boudri, i$6

Bougy, Signal de, 179

Boulders, Ix, 8, 153, 17^

Bouveret, 194

Bovaresse, 160

Bjzingen, 12

Bramegg pass, 71

Brand, 284

Brassus, le, 164

Braune^, castle of, 18

Bregaglia, val, 261, 271

Bregeuz, 27, 221

to Coire, 220

Breginzer Ach, 221

Bremgarten, 9

Brenets, lac des, 163

Bretaye, 144

Breti^ge, 151

Brieg, 199

Brieni, 94

Oathedrals.

Brienz, lake of, 94

Brienzergrat, 94

Brigels, 242

Bristen, 249

Bristenstock. 65, 115

Brothausl, IJ9

Brougbton, grave of, 182

Broye, river, 151

Brugg, 16

Bru^en, 210, 225

Brunehilde, queen, 162

Brdnig, pass of, 65

Brunnen, 62

Brusio, 280

Bubikon, j6

Buchs, 21 i

Buffalora pass, 275

Bukten, ij

Bulle, 142

Bilmplitz, 144

Biintschi, IJ9

B rtochs, &j. Gulf of, 62

Burckhardt, birthplace, 4

Bui^orf, 1$

Bui^len, 114, 2J9

Biirs, 284

Biire«berg, 284

Bussigny, 157, 179

Bnttisholz, 14. English bar-
row near, 14

Buzasch, 2S3

BrBON, Lord, his description
of the Alps as seen from the
Jura, xxxviii. On the fall of
the Boasberg, 55 . His Swiss
tour, 87, 141. Lines on the
ossuary of Morat, 149. On
Lake Leman in a calm, 176^ In
a storm, 176, 194. Clarens, i8j.
Bonnivard, 184. Chillon, 185,
186. CampagnaJDiodati, 19;

Ca IM, 220
Galfreisen, 1Z3
Calvary, 20^

Caimrif John, at Geneva, 171
Gami^267
Camperio, 25I
Campfeer, lake^ 27^
Campo Dolcino, 260
Canarfa, val, 120, 251
Canclano pass, 281
Gantcnt, 262
Cardinel pass, 259
Carouge, 151
Casaccia, 252, 272
Cassana, val, 275
Gastasegna, 272
Castehnur, castle, 272
Cathedrals-
Basle, 2

Berne, 74

Coire, 218

St Gall, 2x1

Geneva, 167

Lausanne, 180

Sfon, 192

Soleure, 10

Zarich, 29

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND.

287

CAYAGLIA.

Oderina, 269

Gergoes, SL, 178

Chaain,48

GhaUais, 191

C!bufl»4>portenn, xxviii

GfaUetoud pastuxvges, lUi

Challex,i64

GbuDhrelteu, 158

CbaoKMsaire, Dent de, 14^, 144

Ghampery, col de, 194

Champmunt, castle of, 157

ChiDdolin, ijS

Gbarlo the Bold, 149, 156

Gharpentier (the naturalist),

gnveof, 187
Cban^-banc, zxiii
Gbaaaeral, 8, I55
Cbttean (fOex, 140
■ — to Aigle, 142
Gh&tdSt.DeDi8, 142
Gbaumont, mont, 15^
ChaiBGe, 142
Ghaoi de Fonda. 158
ChaYoines, 144
ChaTOTDay. 157, 162
Cbeeaea, Swias, 140, 141, 142,

l6c3k2J5

Chenaca torrent, 206
Cheaeauz, 181
Cheaoy, col de, 194
€h&iere8» 144
Gherille, ool de, 196
— , chftleta of, 196
Ghexbrea, 147
Gbiamnff, castle, 276
^3darendo, 272
dunmna, 261

— no Splligen. 261

- — to Samadeu, hy the Ma*

lpya,27i
Gmeaa, 272, 28X
ChiUoD, caatle of, iSl, 185
ChiveU stream, IJ5
Gfarinen, 137
C3nufQr8ten. jS
CkamaUea, 268
CSmaskd, 275
Caarenak 182, x8j
Clariden alps, 240

Grat,ii5, 2J7

€lefeii,26i
GLemgia river, 276
due, la, pass of, 160
Gohlais, 20

00IBX,218

* to Pfeffers baths, 2x8

•-~-- to Disen tis and Andermatt,
bf the Vorder Rhelnthal,
246

to Samaden, by the Jn-

Jier, 267

to Samaden In the Enga-

dine, iry the Albula, 270

to Spltlgen, by the Via

JIKala, 254

— to Qiiavenna, by the
Spltlgen, 254

to Silas, 28x

DENT.

ContK to Davos Plaz and Elo-

sters, 282
GoUonges, 164
Cologny, 193
Columbier, 156
CombalLaz, 14J
Concise, 156
Cbnflons, 252
Ck>N8TANCB, 24. Great council,

, lake of, 26

, steamers on the, 26

* to Basle, 19

-'—* to Schaff hausen, 23

Gontbey, 197

Conto, monte, 271

Ounvers, 158

Conversion, la, 148

Goppet, 178

Curoelles, 156^ 158

Comare, 249

Corsler, loj

CortaillocC 156

Cossonay, 157, 162

Costume, zlviii

C6te, la, 179

Coucy, Engueirand de, defeat

of, 15
Courreudelin, 6
Gouvet, 160
Goverdale, Miles, 32
Craveggia, 206
Gresta, 262, 269
Cretinism, Izvu
Greuz de vent* x6i
Crevasses, Ivlii
Crevola. 2oj
Criner Furca, 208
Grischona, St., 5
Grispalt, 249
Cristallina, val, 252
Grooe, Sta^ 272
Crodo, 209
Croix, col de la, ij8, 14J

, Ste., 157

Croveo, 205

Gully, 183

Culoz, 164

Curaglia, 252

Cure, 1

Custom-houses, Swiss, xi

Dacbsen, 28

Dachsfelden, 8

Dagmersellen, 14

Dala, river, 132, 133. 198

Dance of Death, 2

Datschbach waterfall, 109

Dauben See, 130

Davos, 283

Davosthal, 271

Davy, Sir H., grave of, 170

Dazio Grande, 120

Dead, lake of the, xoo

Decandolle, grave of, 170

Delemont, 6

Dent de Jaman, pass of, 141

du Midi, 19$, 181, 182

EMMENTHAL.

Dent de Morel es, 188

' de Vaulion, I63

Dcrborenze, lake, 196
Devil's Bridge, 116
DeverOb val, 205
Diablerets, 195, 196
Diavolezza Pass, 279
Diemtigen-thal, 135
Diessenhofen, 23
Dietfurth, 226
Dietikou, lo

Diligences In Switzerland, \x
Dill, his Panoramic Views of

the Alps, 76
Diodati Campagna, 174, 193
Directions for travelling in

Switzerland, (12
Disentis, 241, 248; abbey, 248
— • to Beichenau, 246
to Olivone, in Val Blegno,

by the Lukmanier, 251
to Andermatt, by the

Oberalp, 248

* to Amsteg, 249

to Airolo, 251

Disrut pass, 253

Distances In Switzerland, xviii

DiJdi berg, 237

D61e, mont, 178

Domdidler, 150

Domleschg valley, 255

Dome d'OssoIa, 203

Domach, iMttle of, 6

Doubs, river, 158. Saut, 158

Douvaine, 193

Doveria, 202

Dranse, river (in Cbablais),

190.194
Dilbendorr, 36

Dfindengrat, 127

Dumartbal, 243

Diimten, 36

Diirrenboden, 275

Ebel, grave of, 31

Ebenalp, 225

Ebikon, 48

Ebnat, 227

Ebrodunum, site of, 157

Eck, 109

Ecluse, 1*, fort, 174

Eginenthal, 207

Egeri, 40. Lake, 40, 230

Eigen, 238

Eij^r, great, 88

Klein. 88

Einfisch-thal, 198
Einsiedeln abbey, 228
Einspanner, xxlli
Electric telegraph, xviii
Eigg, 210
EUn, 243

to Pfeifers, 243

to Films, 243

Emetten, 62
Emme, river, 8, 15, 72
EmmenbrUcke, 15
Emmenthal, 71

^ I

288

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND.

ENGADINE.

Engadine described. 27 j

Enfte, peninsula, 8

£ngelberg, 108

to Aitorf, 108

Engelbomer, 92

Kngbe, 77

Enghi, 24J

English war, and barrow, 14

Engstlen Alp. iii

Enneda, 2j$

Entlebuch, 71

Erasmus's grave and tomb-
stone, 2. Residence. 4

Ergolz, river, 12, 20

Erlach, and castle of, 152. 155

, von, 8, 15

Erlenbach, 97, i;9

Eml( Arnold), 63. Birthplace,?©

Erstfeld. 109

Erzlngen, 20

Escher von der Linth, his grave,
31. His works on the Linth
and lake of Walienstadt. 36.
Monumental tablet to, 37

Escholzmatt, 71

Esel, Si

Etishorn, 105. Excursions fi'om,
106

Etivaz, val, 142

Etzel, mont, 227

Ev§ch6, 1', 6

Evian, 194

Evionaz, 189, 195

Ezli-thal, 249

Eaido, X2I
Fain, val de, 277
Falkniss, 214, 216, 281
Fafel. the Reformer, 171
Fatsch, 240
Fatschbach falls, 2i6
Faulhom, 90
Feistenberg, 264
Feldbach, 24
Feldkirch, 221
Fellenbei^. M., 8
Felsenegg, 40
Ferden, 1 54
FermeUthal, ij6
Femey, 174
Femlgen, no
Fgtc des Vignerons, i8j
Fideris baths, 282
Filisur, 270
Finster Aarhora, 88, 99

Aarschlucht, 96

• Aar glacier, 99

Finstermunz pass, 273, 276

Flora, 65, II}

Fim. meaning of, Ivi

Fishmg. 6. 24, 186

Fitznau, 44. Ascent, of the

Rlgi from, 44
Flamatt, 144
Fmschberg, 216
Flawy I, 210
Fleurier, 160
Flims, 244, 24f»
Fiim;$er Fim, 244

GENEVA.

Floods, Ixvl

Flowers, Alpine, U

Flue, Nicolas von der, 67, 68.

His grave, 69. His retreat, 68,

70.
Fluela pass, 28j
Fluelen, 65, iij

to Bellinzona, 112

Flumser pass, 2^6
FBbn (wind), lix, 235
Foppa, 217

Foppiano, gorge of, 208
Forbes, Professor, $ 16
Forclaz, 144
Forcola pass, 268
Formazza valley, 207.
Four Cantons, lake of the, 61
Frassiiione fall, 202
Frauenfeld, 3;
Franenkirche, 283
Preudenberg, 212
Fretburg, 144. Suspension

bridges, 145, 146. Canton of,

146
Frledrichshafen, 27
Frobenius, 4
Frohburg, ij
Fnithvald, 208
Frutigen, 128
Furca, pass of, 100

Horn, loi

Furce Kien, or Seefinen Thai,

126
Furcula pass, 262
FUrst, Walter, 6j, 114
Furtwang, 102
Fuseli, Heniy, ji

Gabris, 22}

Gadmen, 96, no

Gadmenthal, no

to Grimsel, 102

Gais, watering-place. 22j

Galandaberg, 216

Galgenen, 3^

Gall, St., 210. Manufactures.
211. Tradition and history,
211. Cathedral, 211. Monas-
tery, 212. Library, 212

toGaisand Appenzell, 221

to Herisan and Uznach,

225

• to Zttrich, 210

Galenstock, 102

Gampel, i;4

GamschilUcke, 124

Gamsen, torrent, 199

G'elnsbmnnen, 7

Ganther, 200

Gardaval, castle, 274

Gardona, 261

Gaflteren, 129

Gasteren-thal, 125, 129

Gauli Glacier, 103

Geissberg, 109

Oemmi, pa$s oft 1 27

Gemsistock, 237

Geneva, 164. Situation and
appearance, 165. Han of the

GOLDAXJ.

town, 166. Cathedral, 167.
Museums, 167, 168. Library,
168. Botanic Garden, 1^.
Illustrious natives. 168.
Manufactures, 168. Convey-
ances, 169. Physicians and
shopkeepers, 170. History,

170. The Reformation in,

171. The Escalade, 171.
RonsSeau, 172. Environs, 172

(Geneva, lake of, 176

• to Macon, 164 »

to Martigny, by Thonon,

to Villeneuve, by Lau-
sanne, 176

Gentel-tbal, in

George, St, abbey. 23

Georges, Si, 164

Gersan, 62. Ascent of the Rigf
from, 44

Gessler's castle, 54. Death, 55,
64

Gessner, the poet, birthplace
of; 32

, naturalist, birthplace of,

G«S8onay, 138, 140

Gestad.66

Gestig-thal, 138

Giacomo, San, 206. 266

, gorge of, 260

Gibbon, 181

Giebel-thal, 206

Giessbach falls, 9$

Gingough, St., 182, 194 '

Giomico (Imis), 121

GisU-Fluh, 16

Glaciers, Iv. Extent, Ivi. In-
crease and diminution, Ivi.
Movement, Ivli, ixi. Cre-
vasses, Iviii. Colour, lix. Mo-
raines, lix. Melting, IxlL

of Grindslwald, 88. 89, 90

of Rosenlaui, 92

of the Aar, 99

— — of the Rhone, 100

of the ^ggischh<Mii, Z05

Glacier galleries, 201

Glane, 147

Glaris, 28}

Glamisch mountain, 233

Glarut, 2)5. Conflagration in

1861, 2}5
'—* to Wesen, 234

to Stachelbei^ baths, 236

to Reichenau, 243

to Ilanz, 244

— • to Schwytz, by the

Klontiial and Mnotta, 231

, raMfxy of, 36, 234

, canton, 234

Glatt-thal, 28, 36. 210
Glenner, valley, 263
Gleresse, 155
Glion. 184

a*y8, 199

GoUret Ixvli

Goldau, 42, s$. Ascent of the
Rigl from, 42

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND.

289

60Lt:ZE.

Go]kze, ool de, 194
Gondo gorge, 202

galleiy, 202

village^ 202

Gofnzen, J9
Gfivg^ Alpine, xUi

Qorgicr, St. Aubin, 156

GSodkenen, 103, 115

GotkcerdtSt^ pcus of,U2, Hos-
pice ot 119

Gotteron, river, 144, Gorge of,
146

GoUlieben, castle of, 24

Grafenort, 108

6lSggl,I02

Gnutdson, 156. Battle of, 156

Gnodval,';

Gnuid Vant, 148

Gnnge baths, 12

Gnnbonden, 219, 247

Gnnehomer, 217

Oretaa,25J

Grencfaen, 12

GTeniach, 20

Grey Leagne, 219, 247

Grfeg, pass of, 207

Grimmi pass, ij$

Griaud, hospice of the, 97.
Pats oft 96. Skirmish of,
98. Passes to or from, loi.

— to Hospentbal, 100

<— - to tbe ^ggiscbhom, 10^
— — to Meyringen, loj
•^ to Brieg, 104
Grindelwald, 88

to Meyringen, by the

Great Scheideck, 92

to Grimsel, loi

Grkm, 188, 196

Gkuhtb, language of, 219.
History and government of,

GrottedesF^es, x6j
Gifitli or RiltU, 6}
Grajr^es, 141
Grymui, castle of, j6
G^nltentiom, 126
G«teig,8i,iJ7, u8
Gndin, General, 98, 11;
Omins in Switzerland, zxy
Gmnifaoni, 81
OHmlnen, 148
GoreteHUertiach, no
Giirf,2o8
Gurnlge^ 142
Gtrttanen, 90
GyBwyl,69

Maag, 227

Hateborg, castle of, x8. Nen,
cutle of, 54, 61

Backen, 2jo
Bahnenberg, X09
Hahnenmoos, 129, i}6
Haldenstem, castle, 217
Hammerlin, birthplace of, 31
Hazft<ie1c« falls of the Aar, 96
Harder, 81
Hasli, or Meyringen, 9;

IM-LOCH.

Hanenstein, Unter, i j

Hansen, 48

Haut de Cry, 191

Hautevllle cbfttean, i82

Hants Geneveys, 158

Helden, 22;

Heights of mountains, lakes,
and passes, $19, Ixlx

Heillgenkreatz, hamlet and
valley, 205

Heinricbsbad, 225

Helleplatte, 96

Henniez, 151

Hergiswyl, 5J

Herisau, 226

Herrenrenti, 109

Herzogenbuchsee, 9, 15

Hindelbank, 15

Hhiter Rheln thai, 242, 246,
265. Village, 265

History, xlv

Hochhom, IJ4

Hochsttickli, 2J0

Hof, loj

Hofwyl, agricultural institu-
tion, 8

Hohenkasten, 2ij, 22$

Hohenklingen, castle of, 2j

Hohenraln, 26

Hohentwiel, zj

Holbein — collection of his
drawings at Basle, 3, Anec-
dotes of. 3

Hollow Way, 54

Homburg, castle of, ij

Horgen, 35, 40

Horses and mules in Switzer-
land, xxvii

Hospice all' Acqua, 209

Hospital, or Hospenthal, loi,
118

Hugi, Professor, hut of, 99

Hundsalp, no

Hundswyler Tobel, 226

Hanenbei^, Heniy von, 41

Hiiningen, 5

Hunnenflue, 82

Husbandry, Swiss, xlviii

, school for practical, 9

Huss, John, his prison, 2^,24, 25

Hutten, Ulric, burial-place, 3$

Ibach, 60, 2j2
Iberg, castle, 226
IflSgen, 136
IfSgenbacb, 136
IfBgen-thal, 136
Ilanz, 246

to Olivone, 253

• to Splligen, 263

Ilfis river, 71
niiez, val d', 194, 19J
Im-Alachwung, 99
Im-Boden, 96
Im-6rund, 96
Im-Hof, 96
Im-Loch, 107

KEITH.

Immensee, 41, 55. Ascent of

the Rigi from, 43
Im-Saas, 103
Im-Selden, 126
Inden, ijj
Inn, valley of, 27?

, river, 262, 260, 272

Inns of Switzerland, xxviil
Ins, 151
Inxbklakek, 80

to Lauterbnmnen, 82

• to Thun, 79

to Brienz, 94

to Slon or Sierre, ij J

Intschi, 115
Inundations of the—

Alpbach, 9J

Dranse, 190

Emme, 72

Lauibach. 69

Llnth, j6
Imis, 121
Isella, 20 J
Isenthal, 65
Isolaccia, 280
Italy t approach to, 103
Itznang, 24
Ivoune, 175

Jacob, St., battle of, 6, 12

Jaman, 141

Jauchli pass, 71, 108

Jaun, 140 '

valley, 140

Jazer Alp, 244

Jenatz, 282

Jerome of Prague, his prison,

Jesuits, 146

Joch, pass of the, 109, no

Jolimont, 151, 156

Jorat, 151, 181

Joux, chftteau de, 160. Lao

de, 165
Jouxplane, col de, 194
JufT, 262
JvUer pcm, 268
Jungfrau, 87
i/iura, 6, i5j, 156

valley, 12

Justls-thal| 80

Kalen, 113
EaiserstuhU 69
Ealanda, 216
KiAfeuser-thal, 217
Kaltwesser glacier, 201
Kamadra, 25J
Kamor, 2f j, 225
Kander, river, 78, 128, ij6
Kandersteg; 129
Kappel, 48. Battle of, 48
Katherlnetbal, 13
Katscharauls, 241
Katzenstrick, 2jo
Katzls, 25$
Kehrbachi, 207
Keith, marshal, 156

290

INDEX TO SWITZERLAKD.

KemUe, John, grave of, x8x

Kerenzenberit 2i5

Kerns, 68

Kerstelen-thal, 115

Klenholz, 94

Kienthal, 127. xa8

Kinzig Knlm. xi j, aj8

Kippel, xi6, ii4

— ^ to Kandersteg, 133

KIrchet, 96

Kiatengrat, 241

Klaoaenpass, 240

Kldne Emme, valley of, 71

Kleiner TSdl, 241

KleinthaU 241

Klimsenhom, $j

Klonsee, 2}j

KlSnthal. 23 j .

Klosters, 282

Klos. 115. 140. 281

Knapsack, xxxiv

Knox. John, 171

Koepftiach, j6

Konlgsfelden, X7

Konolfingen, 72

KoBciusbD, 10

Krachenthal, 115

Krauchtbal. 243

Kray Alp. 225

Kreutzboden, 138

Kreuzli past, 249

Kreazlhigen, 26

Krieg Alp, 205

Krienz, 52

Krlslloch, 5J

Kttblls, 282

Kumbels, 2$j

Kunkels pass, 217

Knrmrsten, j8

Kurs,!

KtUsnaoht, 14, 54. Aaoeni of

the Rlgi fh>m, aj
Kyborg, castle of* 28

Laax, 107

Lachen. 37, 227

Ladders, Leitem, 132

Laket of Switzerland, xL

Heights of, Ixix
Landenberg, 68
Landeron, 156
Landquart, 217, 281, 283
Langfaans, Mad., monument, 15
Langnau, 71
Langwiesen. 282
Lanzada, 28x «

Latrobe, X39, 161
Lattenbach, 135
Laubeck, castle and gorge, 140
Lauberhom, 87
Lauenen. 137

to Osteig, X37

Lanfelfingen, 13
Lanfen, castle of, 2i, 28
LauflTenburg, 20
Laiiffen, 6

Laulbach, torrent* 69
Laupen, battle of, 144

Lausanxe, X79. Cathedral, x80i
Castle, 180. Museum, 180.
House of Gibbon, x8i. Neigh-
bourhood, i8t.

Lausanne to ViUeneuve, by
Vevay, x8f

* to Freyborieu 147

* to Berne, by Moral, 148

— -• to Geneva, X76

* to Yverdun, X55

Lauteraar glacier, 99, xo|

Lauteraarsattel, 103

Lanterbrunnen, 83

upper valley of, 84

to Grindelwald, 85

— ~ to Kippel or Kandersteg,
by the Tschingel, 123.

to Kandersteg, by the See-

finen Furloe and Dttndeograt,

126

Lautersee, 70

Lavater, birthplace ot, 29. 32.
At Ober-Rieden, 35. Death

of, 31
Lavaux, 183
Ijavey bath, X89
Lavin, 275

r^bendue» lake and valley, 205
Lecherette, 142
Leoourbe. General, 63, 109^x13,

116, 266
Leitem, 132

Leman, lake, 176, 182, x8j
Lenk, 136

to Lauenen, 137

Lenz, 268, 270

Leuk, batha of, X31. ViUage

of, 133
Leventina, val, X20
Libraries —

Basle, 3

Berne, 76

Coire, 218

Engelbei^, xo8

St Gall, 212

Geneva, 168

Neuchatel, 151.

SchaflFfaansen, 23

Z(^ngen, 13

Zurich, 31
Lichtensteig, 226
Lichtenstein, 221
Liestal, 12. Slaughter of the

men of Basle at, X2
Limem Alp, 242
Lhnmat river, 17, 29
Linard, Piz, 281
Lindau, 27
Linth, valley of^ 234, 236*

River, 34. i6.2i4

Colony, 37.

Lioson, lake, 142

Lira, 260

Liseme, 192, 197

Livlgno, valley and village, 275,

LSchliberg. 264 •

Locle, x$9
Louche, X31, X33
LOffelhom, 104

MABTINf!I>B|H}K.

Loges, col deSk 15a

Lohnkutscher, Swiss, xxil

Loison, Gen., no, 1x3, 116

Lonza, river, i {4

Lorze, river, 48

Loetallo, 267

LStschsilttel, 204

L5tschberg, 134

LQtschthal, 125, 134

Louis* FhiUppe, 254 .

LowertE, 58

Lnoendro, lake, 119

Luoens, T5X

LucBRiTB, 48. Plan of the tovim,

49. Bridges, 50. Arsenal,

50. Thorwaldaen's Lion, 52.
Steamers, 52. Lake, 52.
Sketch - map, 51. liouat
Pilate, 53.

to Scb^tz, 54

to FluSlen, 60

to Meyringen or Brlenz, 65

to Berne, by the £atl«-

bach, 71

to Berne, by railway, 72

, lake of, 60

Ludlow, grave of, X82

Luggage, xxii

Lngnetz-thal, 264

LugiO. lake. 273

Lukmanier pass, 25X

Liiner See, 284

Lungem, lake of, 69. Draining

of, 69

, village of, 69

LuBf^tiao, montey 262, 27 j

Lusgen Alp, 107

Lutewhine, riv«r, 82

Luziensteig, 216

Lyons or Macon to Geneva

(rail). X64
Lyss. 8, 151

Macdonald, Marshal* 259
Maderan valley, 1x5, 237, 249 ,
Madessimo, 260
Madrano, 251
Maduleia, 274
Mandalene, St., grotto, 14']
Maira, source of, 262

valley, 261

Mi^oria casUe, X91

MaUiderB, 282

Malans, 28 r

Malleray, 7

Maloggia or Maloya pass, 273

Maps, xxxii

Marat, birthplaoe, 156

Margarethen, Su, 2i3>

Maria, Sta., pass, 251

Maria zum Schnee, 42

Maijelen lake, xo5» 106

Martigny, vp

*Ui Geneva, \fj Thonoi^

Martinet, glacier •f,i88
Martino, S., 272
Martinsbruck, 276
Martinadruck, 89

IKI)£X TO SWIl 2£atLAKB.

291

MABTIIHBLOGH.

Martlnslocb, 89, 244
Masino, val, 272
Masox, 266
MasBa torrent, 105
Hassena, 48, 98, 113, 212
Matt, 247
tlatten,ii6
Vatti-thal. 206
M&Bpertii»f temb, 6

Maniioe, St.* ill Taiaifl^ 189

•Mayen, iio

Mayenfeld, 2i^

Mayeo-Reaas, no

Ha^ttrifaal; no, 115

HV<eDwaxid, 99

Measures, xvi

Meddser Thai, 251

MeggentacM'n, 61

Meglisalp, 225

HeUen, J5

Meiiierie rocks, 182, 194

Mefaiai], island cf, 26

Melchsee, ^i

Helcbthal, 70

Ifeb. 39* *4J

Mesmer, birthplace, 24

M ettenber^ 89, 99

Meyiingen. 9J

— to Interiaken, 94

to Htispenthal, 95

to Wasen, 109

to Engelberj^ ixx

HleviUe, 190

Mioidnnmn, 151

Misocco. village and yalley, 266

Hoeaa. river, 1 32. Source of, 266

, falls of the, 166

Hoesola, lake, 266

Hol^n, 141, 142

Molina, 268

Mollis, 214

Mmich, 87

MoQchsattel, X05, 106

Monetier, 171

Money, Swiss, xvi

Mods Adgelonun, 108

Montasg, 264

MootbeDon, 181

Montbovon, 14 c

Moofbey, 195

Motitmiratl, I $2

Montrenx, 182, 184

Mmtricmd, 194

Moraines, lix

Mc«a6t,207

MmU (Murten), 148; battle
U, T49 ; lake of, 149

Movcles, Dent de, 188

Morgarten, battle of, 210

Hoiige river, 178, 197

Mtn^genbeY^, 81
Mof^BS, 179
Morgin, 194, 195
Morill, 107
Moritz, St., 269
Momex. 17J
Mortlratsch glacier, 277
Morzine, 194
Moschelhofii, 266
Mosses, les, 142

•KfeTfe.

Metiers Travers, 160
Moudou (Milden), 151
Moulins, 140

Mountains, heights of, Uix
Moutiers Grandval, 7

, val, 6, 7

Mahiehom, j8
Miihlestalden, 102
MUhlinen, 82, 128
Mules, xxvii
MUUheim, jj
Miincheubuchsee, 8
MUnchwyler, 149
Munnoth, castle of, 22
MUnsingen, 77
Miinster, in Upper Yalais, 104,

207
MUnsterlingen, 27
JUiinster-thal, 6, 7
Muotta, 60, 62, 2} 2, 269

to Olams, 231

to Stachelbei^, 238

to Altorf, 2j8

Muotta-tbal, iij, 232
Murchison, Sir R., researches

at (Ehningen, 24
Muretto patis, 272
Murg, river, 33

, village, j8

Mtirren, 84
Murten, 148
MUrtscbenstook, j8
Museums —

Basle, 3

Berne, 74

Geneva, 167, 168

Lausanne, 180

Neuch&tel, 153

Soleure, 10

Zurich, 31
Muslin manufacture, 28, 21 1, 21 2
Miithhorn, 125
MUtten, 232
Mythenberg, 210

NSfels, battle, 2J4

Nanikon, j6

Narexen, 245

Narrenbach, 135

Nase, 79

Naters, io3

Nauders, 276

Neblkon, 14

Nesslau, 227

Nesthom, 125, 134, T99

Neuchatel (Neoenbutg), 152.
Palais Kougemont,i5}. Lake
of, 152, 155. Pierre k hot, 153

to La Cbaux de Fonds and

Locle, 158

•to Berne, 151

to Yverdun, 155

* to Pontarlier, 160

Neueneck. 144

Neuhaus, 80

Nenbauseu, 20

Neuveville, 15 j

N^v^, meaning of, Ivi

nCDENOS.

Nicholas, St., II
Niederwald, 104
Niesen, 78, 128. Astent of, 79^

128
Nodz, 8, 1$;
Noiraigue, i6t
NoUa, torrent, 255
Noses, the, 6£
Nothwyl, 14

Notre Dame des Erdmit«e> 228
Noxon river, i<>2
Niifenen (Novena), paisof, 2^
Nydau, 8, 1 55
NydelbadC baths of, 3$
Nyon, 178

Oberaar Gletscher, 99
Oberaarjdch pas&, 103
Ober-Albis, 47
Oberalp, pass and lake, 249
Ober-Gestelen, 104

to Domo d'Ossola, 207

to Airolo, 209

Ober-Halbstein, 268

Oberhausenbach, torrent, 259

Oberied, 213

Oberkirch, 36

Oberland, Bernese, 77

Obermatt, in

Obem Maiehsltos, 216

Ober-Rieden, 35

Obersfaffel, 237

Oberwald, 104

Obstalden, 23^

Ochsenberg, in

Ochsenblanke, 237

Ochsenstock, 237

Octodurus, site of, 190

Oderdorf, 18

CEhningen, quarries of, 23

(Eschinen, valley of, 127, 129

(Estadten, 19

Oldeuhom, 138

Olivone, 252

OUon SL Tryphon, 187

Olten, 13

Omeinaz, lake of, 142

Orbe, 157, 162. Source of the,

163. Town, 162
Oimonds. les, valley of, 142, 187
Oron le Chatelet, 147
Ortenstein, 255
OsBola, val d*, 203
Ouchy, 179

Pain de Sucre, 182

Panix, 245

Panixer pass, 244

Pantenbrttcke, 277

Paracelsus, birthplace, 230

Paradies, 23

Paris, xi

Passes cf the Alps, xlH, 1.

Heights of, Ixx
Pastrycooks (Bngadine), 273
Pasturages, liii
Payeme, 150
Pedenos, valley, 275

0 2

292

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND,

Ft3)E8TBIAK.

Pedestrian travellen, hinto to,

9 12
Peiden, 25?

Baths, V

Pennilucus, 18

Perdatach, 2$2

Perte da Rbtee, 164, 174

Pestalozzi, 15, 18, 157. Btrth<

place, |2
Peterlingeo, 150
Peter's Grat, 124
Peter's Plaz, 26;
Peter's, St^ Thai, 25J
Petershausen, 24
Pfaflrensprung 115
Pfaflrenwand.iiz
Pfafflken See, j6
PfUfBkon, 227
Pfeffebs Baths, 214

convent, 216

Piynn. 198
Planazzo, 260
Pierre k bot, 151
Pierre k voir, 190
Pierre Pertuis, 7

, St., isle, 155

Pilate, mount, 5J. Snpenti-

tion concerning, $}
PiUon, col de, ij8. 14J
Piora, 251
Piotella, forest, 120
Pisciadella, 280
Piumegna waterfall, 121
Plz Beveren, 255
Piz Languard, 277
Piz Linard, 275, 281
Piz Rosein, 241
Piz St. Gian, 269
Plan des Isles, 14)
Planta family, 274
Platalva, 257
Platta, 252
inatten, i )4
Platteuberg, 24}
Platz, 264. 28j
Plaz, 264, 283

toStiss, 281

Plessfir, river, 282
. Pleurs, 261, 271
Pleyaux, 182
iPommat, 207
Pont, Le (Joux), i6j
Pontarlier, 160

to Neuehfttel, 160

Ponte or Punt, in Engadine, 271,

274
Ponte, chftlets, 205
Pontresina, valley, 276. Village,

to Bormio, 279

Population, xliii
Porters, xxvii

Posting in Switzerland, xix
Pragel pass, 23J
. Prattigau, 281
Premia, 208
Pr^s^, le, 280
Presta, 160
Pully, 182
PuUmenga, castle, 243

Punt, 271, 274
Paschiavo, 280

Qnarten, j8
<^nten, St^ j8

Rabbinsa, 264
Radolfszell, 2}
Ragatz, 214

to Sliss, 281

Railways, xxiv

Ramin Grat, 241

Ranft,7o

Ranz de vaches, xlviil

Rappen, valley, 205

Rapperschwyl, j6. Bridge, 35

Raterichsboden, 96

Ranracorum, Augusta, site of,

20
Rawin, i}7

Rawyl, pass of, XJ5> xj6
Realp, xoi
Realt, castle, 256
Rechingen, 104
Reding, Aloys, 59, 63, 2JI
Reggio, 267
Reichenau, ih 246, 254

to Splttgen, 264

, Island of, 24

Reichenbach. 92, 9?, 128

, castle of, 8, lO,

, falls of, 9 j

, baths of, 93

Reiden, ij

Reidenbach, 140

Rekingen, 205

Remus,^ 276

Rennendorf, 7

Resti, castle of, 94

Reuchenette, 7

Reuse, the, i jfo» 160. Source of,

160
Reuss, river, 1$, 17, 48, 50, 109,

115, 119. Valley, iij
Rhaetikon, 281
Rheineck, 213
Rheinfelden, 20
Rheinwald, glacier, 265
RHnfB at Basle, i. Junction

with the Aar, 20. Falls of,

near Schaffhausen, 21. At

Mayenfeld, 217. Sources of,

259. 265
Rhoden, 221
Rh6ne; source and glacier of,

xoo
— — at Geneva. 165
——.junction with Arve, 17 j

, Perte du, 164, 174

, at Martigny, 192

, valley of the, 186, 195

RicheUi pass, 243
Richisau, 233
Richterswyl, 35

to Schwytz, 227

Riddes, 192
Rieder Alp, 106

BU8A.

Riedem. 233

Rledtwyl, 1$

Rifle-shooting, zlix

R16I, the, 41 . Modes of ascent,
42.- Stations. 42. N. D. des
Neiges and Hospice, 43.
Hud-torrent, 44. KaUbad,
44. Sisters^ Fountain, 44.
Summit, 45. Kulm inn, 45.
Panorama Arom summit 46W
Spectre of, 47. Accidents on
the summit, 47

Rigi, ascents of the —
from Goldao, or Arth, 42
H Immensee, 43
9 Kiissnacht, 43
., Weggis,43
w Gersaii, 44
„ Fitznau, 45

Rigi Vaudois, 184

Ripaille, 193

Riseten pao, 243

Ritter. pass, 206

Robenhausen, 36

Roche Fendoe, la, 159

Rofla, 2$8

Rolle, 178

Romainmotier. 162

Roman remains, 17, 18, 19. 2o«
167

Romansch lavguage, 219

Romanshorn, 27, 5}

— ^ to Zurich, jj

Romont, 147

Rongella, 258

Rorschach, 27, 212

to Coire, 212

to Gids, 221

Rosana, val, 277

Rosegg, glacier, 277

Rosein, val, 241

Rosenlaui. 92

Rossa, col della, 20$

Jiossberg,faU of the, 55-58

Rossillon, 164

Rossiniere, 140

Rothenthurm, 230

Rothhom of Brienz, 94

Rothkrentz, 48

Rotom, lake, 251

Rotsberg, castle of, 66

Rougemont, 140

Rotuteau on the lake of Bienne,
155* At Motiers Travers,
161. At Geneva, 17a. At
Vevay, 182. At darens.
183. At Ghillon. 185. At
Meillerie, 194

Rousses, les, 164

Routes, Skeleton, xl

Roveredo, 267

Ruaras, 248

Rudenz, von, 8

Rue, 147

Ruete, 15

Rngen, 81

Ruis, 247

Rumonsch, 219

Ruppen, 21 )

Rusa, la, 280

INDEX TO SWITZERLAND.

293

Bt^SGHLIKON.

Biischlikon, 34

Rntii, 6i

Biu, val de, 158

Sune, river, ij8, 140, 141, 145,

147
SaaoeD (Gessonay), ij8, 140

to Sion, ij8

Saddngen, 2o

Saciueln, 69

Saftve, mont, i*;}

Sallenche, waterfall, 189, 190

Salt-mines at Bex, 187

Samaden, 260, 271

to Nanden, inj

to Tirano, 276

Sand-Alp pan, 237

Sandbach rfyer, 2J7

Sand Grat, 241

Saoetach, pass of, ij8

Sardona, 217

Sargana, ^ 214

Samen, 68. Lake of, 68

to EkigelbeiK or M^yiin-

gen, 70

Sattli. pa£8» III

Sangem, 7

Saat du Donbs, 158

Saovabellin, forest, x8i

Savien, torrent, 264

Bavieae, i^

SaxoD-les-Baina, 192

Scaletta pass, 275

Scanb, 279

Searl-thal, 276

Soeaa Plana, 282

Scewls, 282

Sc«, valley, jg

Soeia Plana, 284

Schabsieger cheese, 2j5

SchSchen, 71

Scbachentbal. 1x4*2^9

Scbadan, castle, 78

ScHArrHAUSKK. 22. Falls of
the Bhine, 2X

• to fiasle, 19

— to Constance, 13

toZiiiicb, 28

Schaflodi cave, 80

fikJialbet, 20X

jTbal, 218, 282, 28j
valley, 256
lesser, 85

— , great, 92

Scbdlken, ixi, xx6

ScbeixUngeu, 78
Scblenhorn, 1J4
Scbiers, 282
ScfaJJtbom, 84
&:2inidelezi. 227
fibbfnner, Matthew, xji, 19^
SdkinUmach batkt, x6
Schlieren, IQ
Scbmadribach, 8|
Schmelzboden, 28i
Schmerikon, j6

Scb^Uii>en> 11$

Scb5n1>Tann, 4P

SION.

SchSnegrnnd, 226
Schreckhom, 88
Schreyenbach falls, 2|6
Schnols, 276
Schttpfen, 8

Schwanao, castle of, 59
Schwarenbach, X29
Schwartzhorn, 92, 283
Schwartz See, 142
Schwarze See, 281
Schweitzerhall, 5
Schwing-Feste, xliz, 7X, 91
Schioytz, 59

• to Einsiedeln, 227

to Glarus, by Uie Hnotia-

thal, 21X
Schyn pass, 256
Schynige Platte, 82
Seedorf, x«
Seefluen-thaU 126
Seelisbei^, 63
Seewen, 59
Seewis, 284
Segnes pass, 243

Spitz, 244

Seilbach, 93
Selbsanft, 237
Selva, 248
Sembranchier, 190
Sempach, 14

, battle, X4

— — , lake, 14

Sempione, 19}, X98, 199, 200

Sennhtttte, liv

Sennwald* 213

Sense, stream of, 144

Sentis, 225

Sepey, X42

Septimer pass, 262

Semeus, 281

Sernft-thal. 24}

Serrant, river, 164

Serri^res, glen of, i$6

Servetns, death of, 171

Sewelen, 21 j

Sex, Porte da, X95

Sexmadan, 249

Seyon, gorge of, X54

Seyssel, 164

Siders, iji, 198

Sidelhom, ic»

Sidli alp, lox

Sierre, i? 3,193,198

Signal, the, 47

Signau, 72

Sihl, river, 19, J2, 40, 47

, vide, 48

Sihibriicke, 40
Silberhorner, 88
Sillnen, 115

Sils, village and lake, 272, 273
Silva Plana, 269, 273. Lake, 273
Simmen, sonrce of, 136
Simmenegg, castle of, 140
Simmen thai, 135, 139

SlMPLON ROAD, I93, I98, 200

hospice, 201

village, 202

Singen, 23
Sion, X92

,8TEAMEB8«

Sion* to Bex, by Diablerets, 195

to Domo d'OsBola^ by the

Siroplon, 198

• to Thun, by the Rawyl,i 35

* to Sauien, by the Sa-

netsch, X38

SIselen, 15X

Sissach, 12

Sitten, 192

Sitter, valley, 2x0. Kiver, rise
of, 224

Skeleton tours, xiii

Slate-quarries in the Flatten-
berg, 24J

Slide of Alpnach, 66

Snow-line, Ivi

Snow, red, Ix

Snow-storms, Ixvl

Soazza, 267

Socidt^ de Dimanche, xlvii

SoLEURE, 9. Cathedral, dock-
tower, arsenal, museum, 10

to Bienne, 12

-: — * to Basle, 9

Solothum, 10

Somvix, 248

Sonceboz, 7

Soudrio, 272

Soulalex, 196

5k)yhi^re, 6
Spectre of the Rigi, 47
Speer, 37
Speicher, 222
Spietz, castle of, 79
Spietzwyler, 79
Spina, 283
Spirtngen, 240
Spitze, 240
SpUigen^ pass, 259
SplUgen, 258

to Ilanz, 263

• to Goire, 259

to Bellinzona, 264

to Ghiavenna, 261

Staad, 138
Stachelberg baths, 2)6

to Brigels, by the Kisten

grat, 242

to Altorf, 240

— » to Disentls, 241

to Reichenan, 241

Stael, Madame de, 178
Stafa, 3$
Stage, 264
Stalla. 268

Stalvedro, glen of, 120
Stam, 67 ; to Engelberg, 108
Stanzstadt, 66, 108
Slaobi, 240
Staubbacb, 82, 85
Stauffacher, Werner, 63, 231
Steamers —
on lake of Brienz, 95
at Constance, 26
on lake of Constance, 26
on lake of Geneva, 169, 176,

19?
at Lausanne, i8x
on lake of Lucerne, 52, 60,

108, 112, X14.

294

'tinnfix TO swrrzBRLii!n>.

ffrEAKSBS.

'StesmBTs—

on latEe of Mont» 148

on lake of NeMhAtel, 154

at RorMtecb, an

atZug,4o

at Zurich, Jj, fi
Stechelberg, 126
Steckborn, 24
Stein. 11, III
Steinaeh, 210
Steinberg A.lp, 12 j
Steinen, no, 2^1
Steinbausalp, 102
Steinbaushorn, 102
Steinsben^ castle, 276
Stephan, St., 140
Stierenbach, IC9
Stock, loj

Stockalper, canal, V)$
Stockhorn, 78, 79, 128
"Storegg pass, 70^ 109
Stoss. 21 J

Strahleck, pass of, loi
StrattUngeo, tower of, t28
Strela pass, 282
Stretta, la, pass, 279
Strim, vall^, 250
Stande, length of, XTli
Sulpice, St., 160
Sureuen, pass of, X09
Sursee, 14
Siiss, 27$, 284
Susten, pass of, 1 10

village, 198

Susteuhorn, 102, xio
Suvoarroufi march orer the

St. Gothard, 109, f i), 116^ 120.

Across the Kinzig Kulra, 2;2.

At Muotta, 2J2. Up the

Senift-thal, 245
Suze river, 7, 12
Swiu, origin of the name, f x;,

xllv, 60
SwiTZERLAifD. Introductory

Information, xi

Tagertsche, 72

Tamlna, 214

Tamins, 246

Tanzenburg, 6x

Tarasp, 276

Tavannes, 7

Tavetscb, 248

Teggiate, 260

Tbll, Wiluav, b(rthplace,ii4.
Lands on the Platte, 64.
Shoots Gessler, 64. Scene
of bis deeds, 61. Death, 114

Tell's chapel, 55, 64

Tells country, 61

Tellenburg, castle of, 128

Tenay, 164

Tendre, mont, i6j

Territet, 184

Terzen, 38

Teufvktein, 115
. Teuffen, 22)

Thalwyl, 35

tJLKICHEN.

Thiele, or Zflxl.iivte',^, 152, 155,
156

Thlengen, 20

Thiermatten, IJ5

Thonon, 19 j

to3ixt,i94

Thorwaldsen's Ldon, 52

Thuw, 78

— lake of, 79

to Interlaken, 79

toLeuk,i27

' to Blon or Slerre, i?5

to Vevay, by the Simmen-

thaU 1 19

Thar, river, x8, 210, 226

Thurgovia, canton, t6, tj

Thusis, 2$6

Tidno, river, 120, 122

Tiefenau, 77

Tiefenkasten, 268

Thie pass, 140

Tinibre, rivulet, x86

Tirano, 281

TItlls, 108 •

TSdIberg, 2^7, 241

Todten See, xoo

Toggenburg, 227

Torrenthom, ij2

Tmo, river, loj. FoUm of, 207

T58S, valley and convent, 28

TourdePeilz, i8j

Tourbillon castle, X92

Tourtemagne, 134, 198

to Kippcl, i}j

to the .^eglacbhom, 204

Tours, Sksleton, in Switzer-
land, xiii

Toussaint rOuvertnre, 160

Towns, Swiss, xlvii

Trachsel Lauinen, 84

Travelling in SwitzerioMd, $ 12

Travers, vaU x6o

Treraola, vat, 120

Tremollte, mineral, 120

Trepalle, 279

Trient, 190.

Trift, in the Gadmenthal, iio

Trimlach, valley of, i j

Trogen, 22 J

TrtibSee, 11 x

Trttbschacben, 71

Triimmelboch, 84

Trflns, 247

TrUttlisberg, 1J7

Tschfamot, 248

Tscbierf, 276

Tscbingel glacier, 12^

hamlet, X27

Tritt, X24

Turgi, 18

Turicum. site of, 29

Tflrl, lake of, 48

Turtman, 1^4, X98» 204

Tusis, 255

Twann, 155

l>ndall, ttofessor, $ x6

Uetliberg, J2
Ulrichen, 104

Ultimum, site of, Xf
Unspunnen, castle of, 82
Unteraar Gletscher, 99
Unter • Hauenstein pass, ij.

Tunnel, 11
Unter-Schachen, 240
Untersee, 24
Unterseen, 80
Uoterwalden, ^
Uomo pass, 251
Urbach, vidley of,;96, loj
Urbigenum, site ol, 162
Uri, bay of, %j
— — , canton «f, ixj, X14

, gallery of, xi7

Uri Rothstook, 65

Urner Buden, 240

Umerloch, 117

Urseren, valley and village of,

X17, 1x8
Uster, J 6
Uznach, ^6

vadura, 217 .
Vadex, 2x4, 221
Valais, 189, 191

, Upper, 104

Valettapass, 262

Vallengin, Yf 8

Valleyfl^ Swiss, zUi

Vals, 26J

Valserbei^ 265, 265

Yalserine, 174

Valteline, 281

Vanderens, 147

Vanossi, asbestos weaver, 261

Varen, ijj

Vattis, 217, 24 J

Vaud, canton, 1^ 142, x 56k 177

Vaulion, 162

Vedro, 'valley, 2oi

Velan. mont, x82

Venoge, valley, 157

Vereina pass, 282

Verena, St., chi^l and faer*

mituge, II
Vemant, 181
Vemayas, 189
Vemaz, 194
Verriex, 184
Verrieres de Jouz, 160
Verri^res de Suisse, 160
Versam, 264
Versaroer Tobel, 264
Vers I'E^Use, 14;
Versoix, 178

river, 175

Vevay, 182. Fdte des Vigne-

rons, 18}
Veveyse, river, X42, 182
Vejrrier, 171
Yeytaux, 184
Via Mala described, 256
Vico Soprano, 272
Viesch, 104, 106

to Crodo, 205

VIescher Grat, 106
Viescher-Homer, loj, 104
Villa, 2x0, 271

INDEX TO SWITZEBLAND.

295

TILLENEUYE.

TQIenenve, i86

to Sion, i86

Viodonissa, site of, x*}
Viola pass,. 279
Yioonaz, 195
Visp, 198
Vlspach, 198
Tii^er-thal, 198
Yiitore, St^ 261

YolTOiis, lea, 175

Yoitviera, Sw\m, zxii

Yoltaire, 169, 170, 172, 174

Yonnen, 233

Yorder Rhein tluil, 242, 246

Yonvry, 195

Yrin. valley and village, 2S3,
26}

Ynadie, 174

Yulpera* 275

Wadenschwyl, 3S
Wagenhaaaeii, 23
Wagenliicke, 225
Waidegy, chfttean, 11
"WaUnacht^ 109
Waldriiiit, 20
Wallenatadt, 19

, lake. J7

WaUiseUen, 28, j6
Wart, von, 17
Wartan, castle, ii)
Wanenstefn, castle, 216

1788611,110, 115

Watchmakers. 152, 158,168
WatafaUs, Svriss, xli
WateffalU—

Aar.96

Alpbach. 91

ntschbacb, 109

Doabs. 158

FSUchbach, 2}6

Frassinone, 202

Gaidona. 262

Gieasbadi, 94

llona.266

Phnnef^, 121

BeicheDbAch, 92

Bhine, 21

Saane, ij8

fiallenche, 189

Schreyenbacb, 2j6

Toaa,2o8
Wattwyl, 226
Wanwill, 14
Weggis. 41. 61. Ascent of the

Bigi from, 4?.
Weld, biU of, 28

TVBBDUN.

Weinachter Eck, 222
Welnfelden, 33.
Weissbad, 224
Weissenbui^, 139
Weiuenttein mountain, ascent

fh>m Miinster, 7. From So-

lenre, 1 1
Weissensteln in the GrisoDf,

270
Weisshom (Cervin), ijo
Weisstannen-thal, 243
Wellborn, 92
Wengem Alp, 85
Werdenberg, 213
Werner, poet, 129
Wesen, 37

to Schwytz, 227

— — to Glarus. 254

Wetterhom, 88, 92

Wettingen, 19

Wetzikon, 36

Wicheln, 244

Wildegg. castle of. 16

Wilderkirchlein, 224

Wildbaus. 227

Wildstrubel, 136

Wlmmis, castle of, 128, 1J9

Wind on lakes, 60

Windgelle, 115

Windisch, 17

Wines : Neuchfttel, 154. Cor-

taiUod, 154. La Cdte, 178.

Goquempin, 192. Lavaux*

x8i. Yvome, x86. Coxn-

Wpleter, 218
inkel,66
Winkelried, Arnold of, 14, 67
Winterthur, 28
Wolfenschiess, 108
Wolfgang. St., 28i
Woodcarving, 95
Worb, 72

WSrth, castle of, 21
Wraunlca Tobel, 276
Wrestling matches, zllx, 71,

nSifflc

WufiBens, castle of, 179
Wunderbnmnen, 11 1
Wyl, 210

to Coire, 226

Wylderswyl, 82
Wyler, 128
WylerFeld, 15
Wytenstein, 6j

Yverdun, IJ7
to Geneva, 157

ZWIBQHI.

Yverdun * to Neuchfttel, 157

to Lac de Joux, 162

Yvome, x86

ZKhringen, Berchthold von, 7^

Zavreila, 263

Z&ziwyl, 72

Zemetz, 275

Zlhl, river, 8, IJ2, 155, 156

Zlegelbrticke, J7, 234

Zmis. 258

Zimmerman, birthplace, 17. At
Kichterswyl, 3$

Zizers, 2x7

Zocca pass, 272

Zoflngen, xj

Zollikofen, 8, if

Zschokke, Henry, residence, x6

Zuo, 40

k lake of, 41

• to Zfirich, 39

Znos, 274

Zumsteg, 208

Ziirich, 29. Battle, 29. Cathe-
dral, 29. Plan of town, 30.
Library, 31, Arsenal, 31.
University, 31. Promenades,
jx. Botanical Garden, 31.
Environs, 32. Beformation
at, 32. Manufactures, 32.
Railways and steamboats, 33

Ziirich, lake of, 34

to St. Gall and Bors-

cfaach, 210

to Berne, by Baden, 33

to Bagatz, 34

to Coire. by the lake of

Ziirich, 34

to Lucerne or the Rigf , by

Horgen, Zug, and Immensee,

Zuiich to Lucerne, over the
Albis, or by railway, 47

ZUrichbergen gold-mine, 202

Zumets, 275

Zntz, 274

Zweiltttschinen, 83

Zweisimmen, X36, 140

Zwingli at Zfirich, 29, 31, ?2.
His birthplace, 227. His
death at Kappel, 48

Zwing Uri, XX5

Zwir^, 9a

i ?*

■
•I

>«->«Ji cW I

.*^

SECTIOJ^ II.

THE

ALPS OF SAVOY AND PIEDMONT.

Prelim iNABY Information. — Page 299,
Skeleton Tours.— Page 304.

BOUTE PAGE

111 Domo d'Ossola to Arona —

Logo Maggiore . . . 307

112 Domo d'Ossola t^ Locarno,

by Vol Vegezzo . . .811

113 Bellinzona to Locarno and

Magadmo .... 312

114 Bellinzona to Lugano and

Como, by Monte Cenere . 314

115 Baveno to Lake of Como, by

Luifio and Lcilie of Lugcmo . 316

116 Chiav^ennatoLecco . .321

117 Arena to Varalh . . . 323

118 Baveno to Varallo, by Lake

of Orta or by Vol Strona . 326

119 Yarallo to Alagnor—Val Sesta 329

121 Vogogna to Macugnaga — Val
Anzasca .... 330

12Z Macugnaga to Visp, by Monte
Moro and 8aas . . . 334

123 Varallo to Val Anzasca, by

the Vol Mastakne, or by
Val Sermenta . . • . 338

124 Ifacugnaga to Gressonay, by

the Turlo and Col d^Ollen, or

by the Col di Val Dobhia . 339

125 Gressonay to Ch&tillon, by
the Col de Ranzola, or by the
JBetta Furca . . • 345

127 Visp to Zermatt—Eiffelberg-^

Glacier excursions • . 346

ISwUz.']

ROUTE PAGfi

128 Zermatt to Chdtilhn or Gres-

sonay— iS'^. Theodule Pass . 356

129 St. Nicholas to Evolena, by

the Turtman Thai and the
Einfisch Thai . . .358

131 Aosta to Evolena and Sion,

by the Col de Collon . . 363

132 Eyolena to Zermatt, by the

Col d^ Erin ....

134 Turin to Aosta and Cow-

may eur, by Ivrea — Stella. —
The Val cP Aosta .

135 Martigny to Aosta. — Pass of

the Great St, Bernard •

136 Martigny to Aosta, by the

Val de BagneSf the Col des
FenStres, and Vol Pellina

137 Martigny to Courmayeur
A by the Col de Ferrex .
B by the Col de la FenStre
c by the Col de Serena .

138 Geneva to Chamouni

139 Chamouni to Coormayeur,

by the Col du Bonhomme and
the Col de la Seigne

141 Chamouni to Martigny, by

the Tete Noire .

142 Martigny to Chamouni, by

the Col de Balme . .

143 Servoz to Geneva, by Sixt —

the Buet ....

364

366

376

383

388
388
389
389

390

405

410

412

414

298

ROUTES.

BOUTB PAGE

144 Sixt to Jfo»<%— Vol cTiaiez 416

146 AofltatoPonfe in VcUcTOrca,

by Cogne and Vai Socmna . 41 7

147 Pcnte to Villeneuce, by the

Fa/ Scmaranche . . . 422

148 Aoftta to Botuy 8t. Maurice,

in the Tarentaise, by the VcU
de Oriaanche and the Col du
Mont . . . . .425

149 Oonrmayeiir to Bourg St

Maurice, by the Little St.
Bernard— ihe Belvedere . 428

150 SaHenches to rSopitalOonflans

(Albertville), by Ugine and
Beaufort . • . . 430

151 Geneva to Chamb^f by Aix

les Bains (rail.) . . . 432

152 Geneva to Aiguebelle, on the

Mont Genis road, by Anneey 435

153 Lyons to Ghamb^ry, by Les

JEchelles or Aigueibellette . 438

154 Ghamb^ry to Turin — Mont

Cents 442

155 Mont Genis to Susa, by the

Little Mont Cenis and the
Col de Clairie . . .446

156 Ghamb^ry to Lanslebourg,

by the Tarentaise — (S>1
d'Iseran — Col de la Leisse . 449

BOUTE PAGE

157 Montiers Tarentaise to Laus-

lebourg, by the Colde Vanoise 454

158 St. Jean de Maurienne to

Boorg d'Oysans, by the Col
d'Arves, and Col du Pre JVou-
veau 456

159 Grenoble to Brianqon, by

Bourg d^ Dysons and the Col
deLoadaret .... 457

460

462

GSMKBAI* IlOOEX

160 Briangon to Susa, by the Pass

of the Mont Genewe

161 Brianfon to Pignerol, by the

Col de Sestrihres .

162 Pignerol to Mont Dauphin,

by the Valleys of the Vaudois
and the Col de la Croix . 464

163 Mont Dauphin to Sahizzo, by

the Colde la Traversette . 468

165 Abries to Guneo, by Vai

Vraita or Vai Maira . .471

166 Guneo to Ij^brun, by the Cb/

d'Argentiire and Barcelonette 473

168 IHgne, in the Valley of the

Durance, to Barcelonette, by
Colmar and, Alos . . .477

169 Barcelonette to Brian9on, by

the Valley of the Ubaye and

8t, Veran .... 479

170 Brian^n, or Mont Dauphin,

to Grenoble, by Vol Louise
and La Berarde • . . 481

. . 483

MAPS AND PLANS.

PAQK.

trlacier of Macngnaga 333

Panorama from the Riffelberg and Zermatt fo /ace 349

Map of Monte Rosa and surrounding valleys ,, 353

Summit of Monte Rosa .. •- 353

Panorama from Bella Tola i 361

Planof Aosta 370

Map of Mont Blanc and surrounding valleys to face 395

Mont Blanc from the Brevent .% ,, 400

Map of Savoy and Piedmont ,-, * . at the end of the Book,

SECTION II.

THE ALPS OF PIEDMONT AND SAVOY

PBELIMINABY INFOEMATION.

CONTENTS.

1. Alps of Piedmont and of Savoy — Vol d'Aosta — Monte Rosa — ZerTnatt— Valleys
of the Waldenses, — 2. Inns, — 3. Moods, Mules, ^c, — 4, Guides, — 5. Posting;
Distances, — 6. Frontiers and Custom-houses, — 7. Malaria. — 8. Wine; Bread, —
9. Money, — 10. Maps.

§ 1. FiKDXONT has on its N. and W. sides a clearly-defined frontier in the
n%e of the great chain of the Alps. From the valley of the Toccia, which
lies within its frontier, to the Col da Bonhomme, near Mont Blanc, the Pen-
nine Alps divide it from Switzerland; from the Col du Bonhomme to the
pass of the Mont Cenis, the Graian Alps separate Piedmont from Savoy;
from the Mont Cenis to the Col d'Argenti^re, at the head of the valley of the
Stura, the Cottian Alps separate it from Prance; and from the Argenti^re to
the aouTcea of the Tanaro in the Monte dello Schiavo, the Maritime Alps
diTide Southern Piedmont from the French county of Nice. East of the Monte
ddlo Schiavo the great Alpine chain passes insensibly into the Apennines.

The Soathem or Maritime Alps, and the eastern boundary of Piedmont —
the frontier of Lombardy, Piacenza, and Parma* — are not within the object of
this section, which is to famish to travellers usefrd information for excursions
in tke Alps of Piedmont.

On the side of Italy the Alps offer a striking difference in their appearance
from that presented in the approaches from Switzerland, Savoy, or France.
Prom these the intervention of secondary ranges, and the long valleys, pre-
clude any great extent of the chain from being seen at the same time; but
from the plains of Piedmont, even from Turin — not 30 miles in a direct line
from the nearest point in the crest of the chain — a range of the central peaks
and paaases, extending through 130 miles, is visible.

A day's journey is sufficient, from many parts of the crest of the Alps, for
a deseent into the plains of Piedmont; whilst on the other side of the chain
two ot three days of approach from the plains, in deep valleys amidst the
monnteins, are requisite for its attainment. TYuq Italian Alpine valleys, with
their nmbrageous chestnutSt trellised vines, campaniles, mills, and fresco-
painted oratories, on commanding knolls, are full of pictures, and differ en-
tirely froja^ the Swiss valleys, which are simpler and sterner in aspect.

JFew. .travellers repair to Switzerland without the ulterior object of a visit
to ChamowUm^ Mont Blanc; it is the crowning point of their journey, and
deservedly' so* Those who have time and strength should not rest satisfied witl^i

I * See Handbook fob Nobth Italy.

p 2

300 PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. — ^WALDENSIAN VALLEYS. Sect. IL

seeing Mont Blanc from Chamouni, but should make the tour of that mount&in,
remembering that his aspect from Cormayeur^ on the & side, is even grander
than from the N. The traveller in Piedmont should especially direct His
attention to the Vol cTAosta and the yalleys around the bases of the Monte Rosa
and Mont Cervin, which unfold some of the sublimest scenes in nature. Xhe
Valleys of Zermatt (Swiss) andof Gressoney and Anzasca especially arevturtoaUed for
beauty and grandeur. Zermatt, which affords much better accommodation
than any other spot in the immediate neighbourhood of Monte Bosa, has of
late years become a formidable rival to Chamouni; and if it were equally easy
of access, it may be doubted whether the general mass of tourists would not
accord to it the same preference which is now given to it by most veteraD
pedestrian travellers. The glorious views, and the imrivaUed and almost
numberless excursions around, will well repay a sojourn of several days, and
the Inns now afford sufficient accommodation. The valleys of Anzasca, Sesia,
and Lys, at the 8. side of Monte Bosa, are also remarkable as beings inha-
bited, at their heads, by an interesting race of German origin and lang^uage.
The Logo dPOrta is a lovely spot, and no one within reach of it should omit to
visit that extraordinary as well as picturesque place V arallo and its Sacro
Monte.

Interesting accounts of the Piedmontese valleys, especially those surround-
ing Monte Rosa, are given in The^ Italian Valleys of the Pernmte Alps, by the
Bev. S. W. King, and A Lady's Tour Romd Mcwte Bosa. -

The Piedmontese and Subalpine valleys furnish a large emigration, and
supply all Europe with workmen in particular trades. Jn the Engadine arc
pastrycooks; near Como, thermometer and barometer makers; near Orta, plas-
terers; Biella, masons and builders; Canavese, carpenters; Val Sesia, masons;
Val Blegno, chocolate makers and chestnut roasters; Yal Calanka, glaziers;
Val Bregaglia, chimney-sweepers. They are usually men of great industry
and frugality, and, if possible, return to their native valleys to enjoy the
results of their industry. In consequence of the great male emigration, all
the hard work is done by women, particularly porterage over the mountains;
and from long practice, the women are better able to carry weights on their
backs than the men.

The Waldensian Valleys are not less attractive for their Alpine scenery
than interesting to EngUshmen as the cradle and stronghold of a brave and
stedfast Protestant community, who have maintained their faith in spite
of persecution, fire, and sword. Milton and Wordsworth have commemo-
rated the patient sufferings and heroic deeds of the Yaudois; and Dr. Oillr
in recent times has rendered their story fascinating by the charms of aji
enthusiastic pen. As perfect religious liberty has been established in
Piedmont since 1849, it may be hoped that the evil day is past, never
to return. In 1852 a handsome Protestant church was finished and con-
secrated at Turin, and there are 15 other churches in the valleys tribu-
tary to the Vp. The traveller may approach them most readily frx>m
Turin by rail to Pinerolo. La Tour in the Yal Pellice is good head-
quarters for excursions (see Btes. 161, 162). The Yaudois have been
established in the yalleys of the Alps since the 8th oentoiy, and refer the

Fied^' 4r Savoy. utns. 301

origin of their faith and sect to the time of the Apostles, and the first ages of
Christiamty. Their numbers in the yalleys amount to about 22,000, but they
are rapidly increasing and spreading, and there are large colonies of them in
Turin and Genoa. Cromwell courageously interposed to protect them in
their distress, and stirred up all the powers of Europe on their behalf; he
also raised a subscription for their aid, part of which was funded, and, though
the sum was appropriated by Charles IL, the interest has since been paid by
the British GoTemment for their support

The best season for travelling in this part of the Alpine chain seems to be
July and August In September the weather generally breaks up, but often
becomes settled again ; and for those who do not seek to ascend to great heights,
the most delightful season for trayelling in the southern valleys is often found
in the autumn, sometimes even extending into the month of October.

*'Ia the Piedmontese valleys the N.W. and N.N.W. winds bring fine
weather." — Forbes,

} 2. Inns, — The Inns within the frontier of Italy— excepting the few specially
mentioned below in the following pages — are rather cheaper, but vastly inferior
in accommodation, and especially in cleanliness, to those of Switzerland and
Germany. Men may tolerate the inconveniences, but they will be more
seriously felt by ladies, who must be prepared at times to ^ rough it" after
crossing the Italian border. The want of female attendance, the dirty floor
seldom or never washed, scanty service, no bells, may be generally expected.

Endeavours are being made, especially by the ** Chib Alpmo" of Turin, to
improve the mountain Inns of Piedmont. In Vol d^Josta there are excellent
Inns; at cTAosta itself, and at CourmayeWf tolerable; at St. Viticent, at Coffne,
andtiie Bagnidi Cereaole, rough and homely quarters; at Oressonay, at Breuil^ at
Magna, at Ponte Grande and Macugnagaf in Val Auzasca, tolerable Inns; at
Streaa and Baoeno, on Lago Maggiore, at Orta and VowaOOf very good hotels.

N.R — ^Italian innkeepers sometimes take advantage of the ignorance of
strangers, and especially of English and American travellers, who are sup-
posed to spend their money profusely, to introduce extortionate charges into
the failL These may generally be successfully resisted by a little judicious
firmness, but it is sometimes prudent, and not unusual, to bargain before you
enter yonr rooms, what you are to pay for them. Likewise in ordering dinner
you may fix your own price — say 3 frs. a head — or you may be charged for
each separate item. " My general practice, after having seen the best rooms
the landlord has to offer, is to say, * My price is l^fr. per bed, and I dine at
3 frs. per head.* This is invariably acquiesced in, although sometimes after
some considerable demur, and I believe few people are better served than I
am. I always make a point of going into the kitchen myself and of consulting
the chef as to the important matter of dinner, which usually secures the best
things the larder contains." — F, Extortion is more often attempted in Savoy
and Dauphin^ than in Piedmont, and the attempt more obstinately enforced.

In excursions over the high Alps of Piedmont and Savoy it is generally
necessary to carry some provision of wine, bread, and meat The shepherd's
fare of a mountain ch&let in those parts is limited to milk, butter, and cheese,
to which is added a coarse brown bread, in thin discs, baked twice a year,

302 PBia:JMINABY INFORMATION. — BROADS — ^IfULES— «UQ)BS. SeCt. EL

and kept in store in the roof of the chilet until it is as hard as stone, and
requires a hammer to break it^ To this is sometimes added polenta^ a por-
ridge or padding of maise-meal, and scraps of dried mutton.

When the traTeller in the Alps reodves the hospitality of the curh of re-
tired villages, or of the pastor in the Protestant Waldensian yalleys, where
there are no inns, it is usual to leave with the honsekeep^ or for her, a
donation, which it is just should at least equal the cost of such aooommodatioai
at an inn; the tax would otherwise be heavy upon the limited means of the
host, and kindness and attention are thus insured to future travellers. For
supper, bed, and breakfut, 5 or 6 frs. are given. The curh in these valleys
are not offcen much superior to the ordinary peasants, from whom they have
no doubt sprung, and their income is very limited. They are, however, often
ardent mountaineers.

{ 3. Boada, Mules, ^c — ^The Soads skirting the Alps, and the ^pproM^es to
them from the plains of Piedmont, are generally excellent.. Wherever there
is intercourse there is a good road adapted to the wants of the inhabitants : if
fit for Volantins or chars, these may always be obtained at moderate charges,
usually 12 francs a day.

Mules may readily be obtained in all mountain routes accessible to them,
at charges varying from 5 to 6 francs a day ; and guides at 4 or .5 francs a day
may be had in many Alpine villages of Piedmont.. Ladies will now find side"
saddles in most places where there are inns and horses; where these are
not, ladies had better not venture. On mountain excursions a portandne,
or chaise h porteur, may be procured.

If mules, horses, or a char be taken across the frontier, a boleta, or permis-
sion to pass the douane, is necessary; here the animal is registered, the
course of the traveller stated, and money for the horse deposited as a duty
upon the entree^ which is repaid to the owner when he leaves the place on the
frontier indicated in the boleta as the point by which he is to return to his
own country.

§ 4. Guides. — Bigid caution should be exercised in choosing and adopting
Guides on the Italian side of the Alps. Guides by profession are rarer here
than in Switzerland, and any idle person, however unqualified, may .ofier him-
self for the sake of a good day's wages. No one should be accepted without
sufficient evidence both of good character and experience, frt>m the innkeepers,
the cur^, or some respectable person of his village. Certificates from former
employers should be inquired for. The value of such testimony will be appre-
ciated when travellers are told how in some cases, in remote places, men will
press themselves into your service to conduct you over dangerous passes which
they have never even seen, or of others who, in the middle of an intricate pass,
where their services are indispensable; will become menacing and extortionate^
and even strike for higher wages. Few scruple to avow their acquaintance
with places of which they really know nothing; their only use, then, to the
traveller is to bear his luggage, and talk Piedmontese, a jargon which few
travellers are acquainted with. In Piedmont French and Italian are often
unknown; among those, however, who are accustomed to act as guides, French
is generally spoken, especiaUy in the valleys on the frontiers of Savoy and

Pied^' 4r Savoy, posting — wines — money. 303

France. In most of the French Alpine valleys of the Dipt, de VIsere the
g^de by profession is unknown, and the stranger is Hable to conspiracies
between innkeepers and men who call themselves guides to extort money and
enhance the value of their services.

§ 5. Posting — Distances, — The posting regulations in the kingdom Of Sardinia
are similar to those of France, the distances being reckoned in kilometres
(see p. xviL), and the charges nearly the same, viz. 20 centimes per kU. for
each horse, and 12 for postilions ; on the mountain-passes of Mt. Cenis, the
Simplon, and Tenda, the charge for each horse is increased one-third, or to 30c.
The number of horses which the postmasters can put on is regulated accord-
ing to the size of the carriages and the number of people, for which purpose
all vehicles are arranged under three classes. The postmasters of Turin and
Gknoa are allowed to charge as for additional distance.

At the posthouses on the passes of the Monts Cenis, Simplon,, and Col di
Tenda, the masters must provide sledges during the winter season, for the
hire of which they are entitled to charge 15 c. per kilometre ; and 3 and 4
francs for dismounting and placing on the sledge each carriage, according to
the class to which it may be referable. On some roads chevaux de renf(yrt must
be taken or paid for. For fuller details the traveller is referred to * Articles
de B^glement sur les Postes aux Chevaux,' which can be purchased everywhere.
Owing to the extension of railways throughout Piedmont, Diligences are
now little used save for the purpose of crossing the passes of the Cenis, Sim-
pbn, or Tenda, or to communicate between some country town and the
nearest railway station. The postilion asks a buonamano of the passengers
at every stage ; the smallest coin wiU satisfy him.

{ 6. Frontiers and Custom-homes, — As there is much smuggling on the frontier
of France, the traveller is often subjected to vexatious delay, but time will
always be gained by submitting to it. The French and Italian officials are usually
very civiL N.B. Tobacco is strictly prohibited. Travellers ought even to de-
clare the possession of a few cigars (when declared a small number are allowed
to pass free), otherwise they may be subjected to heavy fine and detention.

} 7. It is almost unnecessary to advise a traveller not to sleep in the plains
if he can reach the mountains. His own love of that ''health in the breeze
and freshness in the gale," which is so exciting and invigorating in the moun-
tains, would prompt him to seek for the pleasure of breathing it and the
spirits it inspires; but the suggestion is offered to induce young travellers to
avoid sleeping near the rice-grounds of Piedmont, or near the ponds, where
in the summer the Piedmontese steep their hemp: these are deleterious, and
may produce fever.

§ 8. The tomes of Piedmont are generally wholesome, and often good;
there is scarcely a village on the mountains where grissini — a fine sort of
biscuit like long pipes, and made of excellent flour — cannot be obtained. The
traveller should never fail to supply his pockets- with some of this bread or
biscuit broken into convenient lengths; this, with a quaff from a fresh spring,
will bear him, if taken at his intervals of rest, through a long day's journey.

§ 9. The money of Piedmont is the same as that of France; '«. e, of the same
quality, denomination, and value.

304 MAPS — ^PEDESTRIAN TOURS. Sect. IT.

} 10. Maps, — ^The .War Department has published at Turin a map of
Piedmont and SaToy in 6 sheets, price 35 fr.: 2 sheets contain Savoy,
14 fr. A map of the kingdom, in 91 sheets, on a scale of ^^^ has been
undertaken by the Government; 60 sheets have been published ; the moun-
tains are ludicrously inaccurate. A portable reduction from this map has
been published at Turin. General Bourcet's map of. the French Alps from
Nice to Pont Beauvoisin was remarkably well executed for the time when it
was published — ^nearly a century ago. A faithful reduction of this map to
two small sheets may be had. Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, 1865, does great
credit to its author; it is both the most accurate and one of the best eng^rayed
maps of the Alps. Perrin, at Chambery, has published a tolerable map
of Savoy at 4 fr., and a smaller at 1 fr. 50 cent. A voluminous * Dizionario
G^ografico, Storico,' &c., of the States of the King of Sardinia, has been
completed. All maps of the country may be procured at Maggi's shop in the
Contrada del Po, Turin, and also at Perrin's, Chambery. Perrin has also
published maps of Savoy on a large scale, and works on the ornithology and
the botany of Savoy, well got up and executed; also a Guide to Savoy.

The best map of the country N. of Monte Bosa is Studer's, Zurich, but the
paths are unaccountably omitted.

Neither Leuthold nor Keller is very accurate on the Italian side of the
Alps.

In this Handbook some routes through the higher parts of the Dauphin.4
Alps have been included. The scenery well deserves the attention of Alpine
travellers; but the filthy habits of the people, and the scarcity of decent
accommodation, have hitherto repelled strangers. It is a remarkable fact
that the only tolerable map of the country is a century old — that of General
Bourcet.

Pedestncm Towrs of Six Weeks or Two Months, chiefly in the Alps of

Savoy and Piedmont,

♦♦ Carriage Boad. ♦ Char Boad. f Mule Boad. § Footpath.

All names following the marks indicated are the same as the last.

♦* Geneva to Sallenches, or St. Mar-
tin.

* Chamouny.
t Tdte Noire to Trient

Col de Balme to Chamouny.
§ Breven.

Montanvert, le Jardin.
t Chamouny to Cormayeur, by the
Col de Vosa, Col de Bon-
honmie and the Col de la
Seigne.
*♦ Cormayeur to Aosta.

* St. Biemy.
t Hospice of the great pt. ^erpard.

* Martigny. (^See Switzerland,
Boute 59.)
♦* Visp in Valais.
t Zermatt, Biffelberg, &c.
§ Pass of the Mont Cervin.
t Ch&tiUon, Val d'Aosta.
t Col de Jon.
t Brussone.
t Col de Banzola.

Gressoney.
t Col d'OUen.
t Biva.

t Varallo, Val Sesia.
t Col de Colma.

J'^Ua— J-ak^ of Ort(»,

Pied^' 4r Savoy.

PEDESTRIAN TOURS.

305

«4i

*•
**

Omegna.

• Vogogna.

f Macugnaga — Monte Bosa.
§ Monte Moro.

Saas.
t Visp, in Valais.

* Pass of the Simplon.
Arona— Lago Magg^ore.
Borgomanero.
Bielk
Ivrea.
Aosta.

t Cogne.

§ Pont— Val d'Orca.

^ Ceresol.

> § Col de OaUse, and return to
Chapis.
§ Col de la Croix de Nivolet.
§ Yal Savaranche.
♦♦ Villeneuve — Val d* Aosta.

* St. Didier — Mont Saxe.
t The Cramont, the Belvedere, and

Pass of the Little St. Bernard.

* Bourg St. Maurice.

* Moutiers Tarentaise.
*♦ L*H6pital Conflans.

IJgine.
Fayerges.
Annecy.
Geneva.

Six Weeks* Excursion to the Vaudon

* Moutiers Tarantaise.

Baths of Brida.
t Pralrognan.
Col de Vanoise.
Lanslebourg.
*• Pass of the Mont Ce-
nis.
Susa.
t Cesanne.
t Col de Sestri^res.
•Pragelas— Val Clu-
sone.
Perouse.

f Val Germanasca. Pro-
testant yaUey.
Balsille.

Col de la Fontaines.
Pralis.
Col Julian.
Bobbio.

* La Tour.

t Val Angrona.
I^ra.

* Lusema.

§ Sea Bianca.

Valleys,

Crissolo.
§ Pass of the Traver-

sette.
t Abri^.

Combe de Queyras.

* Embrun.

♦ Gap.
Grenoble.
Chambery.
Aix.
Annecy.
Geneva.

^Hie Tou/r of Monte Rosa^ allowing time to see the Chief Places of Interest,
and avoiding the imre difficult Excursions, Starting from the Valais,

Visp.

1. Saas.

2. Excursion to F^ Glacier,

sleep at Matm&rk Hotel.

3. Monte Moro to Macugnaga.

4. Macugnaga glacier.

5. Vanzone.

6. Barranca Pass to Fobello.

7. VaraUo — Sacro Monte.

8. Alagna — ^Val de Bours.

and

9. Col d'Ollen to Gressonay.

10. Lys Glacier, return to Gressonay.

11. Pointe de Combetta, Col de Ban-

zola to Ch&tillon.

12. BreuiL

13. Col de St. Thebdule to Zermatt

14. Gomer Grat, sleep at Biffelberg.

15. Schwarze See, return to Zermatt.

16. By St. Niklaus to Visp.

P 3

306

PEDESTBIAN TOUBS.

Sect. II.

Same Tour^ dighUy vcuried, and commencing ai Baveno,
Passes taJcen in the opposite direction.

Baveno.

1. Orta by the Motterone.

2. Varallo by Omegna and

Monte MaEzucone.

3. Excursion to Rima, sleep at

masco.

4. Col d'Egua to Ponte Grande

5. Macugnaga.

6. Macugnaga Glacier.

7. Monte Moro to Saas.

8. Excursion to F^ Glacier.

9. St. Niklaus.

the
Ri-

10. Zermatt

11. Schwarze See, Homli, and return.

by Zmutt.

12. Gomer Grat, sleep at Biffelberg.

13. Col de St. Th^odule to Breuil.

14. Brussone, by the Cimes Blanches,

or by Ch&tillon, or (?) by Col
de Fortola.

15. Pointe de Combetta, Gressonay.

16. Lys Glacier, return to Gressonay.

17. Col d'Ollen to Alagna.

18. PUe Alp, and return to Varallo.

ROUTES IN PIEDMONT AND SAVOY.

ROUTE 111.

DOHO d'OSSOLA to ARONA. fiORROMEAN
ISLANDS. LAQO HAGOIOBE.

Domo.
Vbgogna
Baveno
Arona .

Miles.

15
12

This is one of the most beautiful
roads for entering Italy. From Domo
d'Ofisola at the foot of the Simplon
(Bte. 59) a fev hoars' drive carries
the traveller to the shores of the
Lago Maggiore, where, if he be cross-
ing the Alps for the first time, he
finds himself in a new world. Rlwy.
slowly in progress.

From Domo to Baveno takes nearly
4 hrs. posting, exclasiye of stoppages.
Travellers can join the steamers,
which go up and down the lake 4
times a-day, either at Pallanza or Ba-
veno. Stresa or Baveno are the best
stopping-places for those intending to
Tisit .the Borromean Islands, or to as-
cend the Motterone; they are on the
road to Arona, the railway stat. for
Kilan, Turin, and Genoa. Pallanza is
rather nearer, and more convenient
for those bound for Lugano, or the N.
end of the Lago Maggiore. A char
to either place costs about 15 frs.

The road descends the valley of the

Tosa, the bridges over which, below

I>omo d'Ossola, and again 6 m. belo*^

Vogogna were carried off by the storms

of 1834 and 1849.

At Pallenzeno a road turns off rt. to
Pi^ de Mulera and Val Anzasca (Bte.
1^1). After leaving pomo the valley
-widens and loses its beauty.

Vogogna (Trm, Alb. della Cor6ii£l,
f^r). The Tosa, here crossed by k
bridjge sibove the cohfluence of t)ie
A.nz^ i^ navigable, iu spite of it^ rSr
pidity, a short distisLnce above this

place; the barges are towed up by
double teams of 6 or 8 horses on each
bank.

At Premosello a carriage-road to
Pallanza branches E. passing the beau-
tiful Lc^ Mergozzo ; it is sure to become
popular with travellers.— Becross Tosa.
Near Omavasca are the white mar-
ble quarries which have supplied the
stone for Milan Cathedral.

At Qrcmellona a large bridge crosses
the Strona, a stream which drains the
Lago d'Orta and sets in motion several
large cotton mills, A carriage-road,
running up its 1. bank, leads, in 4 m.,
to the lake of Orta. Dil. daily. (See
Rte. 118.)

Here another road leads to Pallanza^
whilst the main road continues to

FariOlo (//m, Lion d*Or, attentive
landlord. Here the Lago Maggiore
bursts into view, with the Isola
Madre, the northernmost of the Bor-
romean Islands, in the distance. A
little fitrther are quarries of a beau-
tiful rose granite, which derives its
colour A*om the prevalence of felspar.
It cleaves into thin slabs. The tele-
graph posts are made of granite. Fel-
spar is obtained here in beautifhl flesh-
coloured detached crystals. Steamers
call off here and Baveno at 9} a.m.
descending^ and at 1} p.M, on ascend-
ing the lake.

Baveno, — Inns : H. Bellevue, a new
house on the lake, well managed and
comfortable; H.delaPoste, improved,
moderate charges. 2 m. farther qn is
Stresa^ *H. des lies Borromees, ayery
good house, on the most beai^fiftil s]pot
on the lake.

The principal object in going fjo
BaVeno ot Strtefea is to vi$it the Borr6m
meafk Island (whipH; nowever, n^i^y be
iiearljr as well visited from Pill^tffial
By starting tdlferdbly feaHv tfte
islands may be visited from £&Yeno«

308

ROUTE 111. — BORROMEAN ISLANDS. ISOLA BELLA. Sect. IT.

Stresa, or Pallanza, and Milan reached
on the same day. The steamers touch
at the Isola Bella. It takes 25 minutes
to row from Baveno to the Isola Bella
(hoat there and back 5 fr., or 2 fr. au
hr.). The Isola del Pescatori is so called
because its inhabitants are chiefly
fishermen, whose rude semi-plastered
houses contrast with the stately struc-
tures on the neighbouring island. The
Jsola Bella (/ftn, Delfino, yery fair;
passengers are oonyeyed free of charge
to and from the steamers) belongs to
the Count Borromeo, who resides a
part of the year in the yast palace.
An ancestor of the family, in 1671,
conyerted this mass of bare and barren
slate-rock, which lifted itself a few
feet aboye the surfiice of the lake,
into a beautiful garden, teeming with
the yeffetation of the tropics. It con-
sists of 10 terraces, the lowest founded
on piers thrown into the lake, rising
in a pyramidal form one aboye an-
other, and lined with statues, yases,
obelisks, and black cypresses. Upon
these, as upon the hanging-gardens of
Babylon, flourish iii the open air, not
merely the orange, citron, myrtle,
and pomegranate, but aloes, cactuses,
the camphor-tree (of which there is a
specimen 40 ft. high) — all inhabitants
of tropical countries — ^and this within
a day's journey of the Lapland cli-
mate of the Simplon, and within view
of Alpine snows.

The proyerbial disagreement of
doctors is nothing in comparison with
the discord of trayellers on the merits
of this island. To Simond the sight of
the island at a distance suggests the
idea of *' a huge Perigord pie, stuck
round with the heads of woodcocks
and partridees;" MaWieios extols it
as ^ the magic creation of labour and
taste ... a fairy-land, which might
serye as a model for the gardens of
Calypso ;" Saussure calls it ** un mag-
nifique caprice, une pens^e grandiose,
une esj^ce de creation " Gibbon " an
enchanted palace, a work of the
fairies, in a lake accompanied with
mountains;" while Brockedon sternly
pronounces it as ** worthy only of
a rich man's misplaced extrayagance,
and of the taste of a confectioner."

To taste it may haye little preten-
sion; but, for a trayeller fresh from
the rigid climate of the north, this
singular creation of art, with its aro-
matic groyes, its aloes and cactuses
starting out of the rocks — and, above
all, its glorious situation, bathed by
the dark blue waters of the lake, re-
flecting the sparkling white yillages
on its banks, and the distant snows of
the Alps-^-Hsanuot fail to afford plea>
sure, and a yisit to the Isola Bella will
certainly not be repented of.

£yery handful of mould on tlie
island was originally brought from a
distance, and requires to be constantly
renewed. It is probable that its foun-
dation of slate-rock feyours the growth
of tender plants by long retaining the
heat of a noonday sun ; but few per-
sons are aware that, in addition to
this, the terraces are boarded oyer
during winter, and the plants pro-
tected from the frost b^ stoyes heated
beneath : thus conyerting the terraces
into a sort of hothouse. The oranf^e
and lemon blossoms perfume the air
to some distance.

A laurel (bay) of gisantic size is
pointed out, as well for its remarkable
growth as for a scar on its bark, where
Napoleon, it is said, cut with a knife
! the word *' battaglia," a short while
' before the battie of Marengo. Rous-
seau once thought of making tlie
Isola Bella the residence of his Julie,
but changed his mind on reflecting
that so artificial an abode would not
be consistent with the simplicity of
her character.

The Palace, which, with the gar-
dens, is liberally shown to strangers
at all times by permission of its
owners, contains pictures by the Pro-
^axicnUf the Charity of And. Saechi, and
50 by Tempesta, In the Chapel are 3
fine sepulchral monuments of the
Borromeo family, remoyed from
churches in Milan at the time of the
Cisalpine republic : one, of the 15th
cent, was erected to hold the relics
of St. Giustina, an ancestress of the
family; another, on the rt. of the
altar, is by Ant. Bnsti, and is praised
by Yasari. The large unfinished

l^ied^ Sf Savoy.

ROUTE 111. — LAKE MAGGIORE.

309

building which separates the two
-w^ingswas intended for a great central
liall and staircase, but has never been
^covered in.

The Isola Madre is well worth a
visit by a horticulturist; firom its
greater distance from the mountains,
-which screen the sun earlier from the
others, it enjoys a milder climate in
-winter. The plants of New Holland
^o^w luxuriantly out of doors; the
two species of tea are ffenerally in
flower in October. The Chilian Arau-
caria here attains a great size; tro-
pical plants grow luxuriantly on the
rocks around ; on the island are many
pheasants, a rare sight in Italy, these
birds being as it were imprisoned^
from their inability by flight to gain
the opposite shores. The small island
of St. Giovanni, forming the 4th of
the Borromean group, is situated near
Pallanza; it oners nothing remark-
able.

The Monte MoUerone or Margozzoh,
rising behind. Baveno, commands a
fine panoramic view of the Alps,
and has at its feet the Lago
d'Orta on one side, and Lago Mag-
giore on the other. Asses are kept
for the agcent. It takes 3} hrs. from
fiaveno to reach the top, 4816 ft.
above the sea-level. You may descend
the opposite side to Orta in 3^ hrs.,
and return in car or boat to Omegna,
2 hrs. walk from Baveno. (See Rte.
118.)

LACK) MAOOIOBE.

There are excellent steamers on the
Lago Maggiore, running between
Magadino and Arona, and calling at
the villages on either shore of the
lake in 4^ hrs. There is no trouble
about passports, but travellers from the
Swiss ports of Magadino or Locarno
are liable to have their luggage ex-
amined on reaching the first Italian
custom-house.

Eow-boats may be hired at any of
the ports on the lake. N.B. Ask for
the tariff, or bargain beforehand with

the boatmen, for they are very extor-
tionate.

The Lago Maggiore, the Lacus Ver-
banus of the Romans (Germ. Langen
See), is about 54 m. (47 Italian m.)
long, and about 3 m. wide, except at
its greatest breadth opposite Baveno.
Only a small portion at its N. ex-
tremity, which is often called Lago
di Locarno, belongs to Switzerland.
About 7 m. S. of Locarno, the Italian
frontier commences. The navigation
of the lake is free to both states. The
3 chief rivers by which it is fed are
the Ticino, flowing from the St.
Gothard ; the Tresa, which drains the
Lago Lugano; and the Toccia, or
Tosa, descending from the Val For-
mazza, by Domo d'Ossola. The sce-
nery of its upper end is bold and
mountainous, and at the same time
diversified by a constant succession of
striking and beautiful features ; so is
the bay of Baveno (to call by that
name the W. arm, containing the Bor-
romean Islands; but, towards the S.
and E., its shores are less lofty, sub-
siding gradually into the plain of
Lombardy. There is a great quantity
of fish : mc fishery is the property of
the Borromeo flimily, and let for a
large sum.

In 1848 Garibaldi and his friends
seized the only two steamers then on
the lake, armed them, and for two
months cruised about, levying contri-
butions on the Austrian towns and on
the Sardinian convents, and keeping
the helpless residents on the shore in
a state of terror. At length he was
beaten off from Laveno, and soon
afterwards abandoned the steamers.

The voyage down the lake is very
delightful, and the scenery exquisite.
The sides are so precipitous that there
is scarcely a path along them. Vil-
lages and churches are, however,
perched on the heights ; and wherever
a deposit has been formed in the lake
by a torrent, a village will be found.

For a description of Magadino and
Locarno see Rte. 113.

The principal places on the W.
shore are

Ascona, surmounted by a castle.

310

BOUTE 111.— OANOBBIO. ABONA.

Sect XL

Brissagc, a channing spot, conspl-
caonf with iti white hooses, and
ayenne of cypress leading to the ch.
Its inhabitants are wealthy and indos-
trions. Terrace rises above terrace
against the hill-dde; and the Tine,
fig, olive, pomegranate, and myrtle
flourish in tne open air. Beyond this
the Swiss territory ends.

Canotbio {Trm, Bissone, ^r), situated
at the entrance of the Piedmontese
valley Canobina. The Church was de-
signed by Bramante. The 2 islands
off Canero, on one of which is a
mined castle of the Borromeos, were,
in the 15th cent., the resort of 5
robber-brothers named Mazzarda, who
committed depredations all along the
shores of the lake. Before reaching
Oggebbio is the villa of the Marquis
d'Azeglio, and just below it that of
Prince Poniatowski. A carriage-road
is in proeress to Canero, and will be
continued along the shore.

Intra (Irms : Veau d'Or ; Lion d*Or ;
Ponte di San Giovanni: all small):'
4000 Inhab. A thriving town, with
manufactories of glass, cotton, and
silk, and a foundry. The torrent from
the Val Intrasca affords abundant
water-power. The road from Gravel-
lona through Pallanza is completed to
this place.

A small island belonging to the
Prince Borromeo lies off the point
before reaching

PcManza (Inn, ♦ llJnivers, good) ;
2500 Inhab. Here the governor of
the province resides. Visit the beau-
tiful Lake Mergozzo on the road to
Domo; take provisions. A good car-
riage-road runs hence to Gravellona
on' the Simplon road, and an omnibus
daily by it to Omegna, Lago d'Orta.
Here is a large model prison for male
convicts, and there is a nursery-
garden of some celebrity close to the
town.

The Borromean Islands may be
visited from Pallanza.

The places on the E. side of the
Lftgo Maggiore are St: Abbondio
(Swiss); Macagno,

tMtno (Rtfe. 115), "^fhencfe a good
road runs by Ponte Tresa to Lugano.l

iHligence dailjr.

Laceno{Ims: Poste, best, fSedr; II
Horo, fine view from it). Hence a
diligence runs daily to the rhr. at
Como, by Varese and the Sacro Monte.
Exquisite views of Monte Bosa, be-
tween Como and lAveno.

The Simplon road, where it skirts
the lake, between Baveno and Arona,
is an almost uninterrupted terrace of
masonry, studded with granite posts
at intervals of a few feet. Travellers
coming from Milan may embark on the
lake to visit the Borromean islands at

Stresa, H. des Isles Borromees, a
most agreeable residence, fiir the best
on the lakes. Steamers touch here.
There is English ch, service in the
house — 11 and 3 on Sunday.

Belgirate, and Zesa, the summer resi-
dence of the author Manzoni, pretty
villages, remarkable for the number of
villas with terraces and gardens in
front. The colossal statue of St Carlo
Borromeo appears on the hill above the
road on the rt., before reaching

Arena (Jnns : Albergo d*Italia, good,
but extortionate charges; A. Iteale),
an ancient and rapidly improving town
of 4000 Inhab. It is built on the very
margin of the lake; the principal
street is so narrow that only one car-
riage can pass. The Simplon road
runs through the upper part of the
town. The steamers toncn here fre-
quently, and carriages can be em-
barked here.

By Railroad ftom Arona to Notccra^
travellers can reach Genoa in 5^, and
TWm in 3} hrs. The stati<»i is close to
the steamboat pier. In consequence of
this railway, and the improvements of
the harbour, Arona has become the

great entrepot between Genoa and
witzerland, and a very thriving
place.

The principal Ch, (Santa Maria) con-
tains a very beautiful picture attri-
buted to G&udenzio Ferrari, who has
Sigiied Vinci after his iiame— k VLolf
family, with shutte^, besiring* fl^dr^S
of samts, tod th^ portrklt 6f a Countess
Borrotneo, b^ wh<>tii it -v^as pre^eht^
to the chutch; it U retouched. San

Fk^' 4r Sofooy. route 112. — ^domo d'ossola to looabno.

311

Carlo Borromeo was born in the old
castle above Arona, 1588; destroyed
by the French 1797.

Benudns cflake dwellings have been
dug up on the marshy ground near
Mercurago.

On a hill, aboat half an hour's walk
fH>m the .town, stands the Colossal
Statue of 8t, Charles Borromeo^ 66 ft
high, and placed on a pedestal 40 ft.
high. The head, hands, and feet,
alone, are cast in bronze ; the rest of
the figure is formed of sheets of beaten
copper, arranged ronnd a pillar of
rongb masoiOT which forms the sup-
port of it. The saint is represented
extending his hand towards the lake,
and oTcrms birthplace Arona, bestow-
ing on them his benediction. There
IS grace in the attitude, in spite of
the gigantic proportions of the figure,
and beneTolence beams from the
oonntenance; altogether the eSed of
it is good, and very impressive. It
was erected, 1697, by subscriptions,
principally contributed by the Bor-
romean family. It is possible to enter
the statue and to mount up into the
head, but the ascent is difficult, and
not to be attempted by the nervous.
It IS effected by means of two ladders
tied together (provided by a man who
lives hard by), resting on the pe-
destal, and reaching up to the skirt
of the sainfs robe. Between the folds
of the upper and lower drapery the
adventurous climber squeezes himself
through — a task of some difficulty If
he be of corpulent dimensions; and
he then clambers up the stone pillar
whieh supports the head, by pladng
his feet upon the iron bars or cramps
by which the copper drapery is at>
taehed to it. To effect this, he must
assume a straddling attitude, and pro-
ceed 111 the dark till he reaches the
head, wliich he will find capable ot
holding 3 persons at on6e. Here he
may I'est himself by sitting down in
the recess of the nose, which Ibrms no
bad aabstitute for an arm-chair. In
the neighbouriiig thurbh several relics
of Ban Oarlo are preserved.

TVGjn .th0 top 6f ta Boom, a UlU
alxrre Arona, there is H fihe view.
The geologist will find near the <]|uar-

ries of limestone (Dolomite) an inte-
resting contact of the magnesian lime-
stone and red porphjrry.

Opposite Arona, on the other side
of the lake, stands the Castle ofJngera,
a fief of the Borromeos, on a similar
limestone peak, at the foot of which
is the neat modem village of the same
name.

Diligences daily to Domo d'Ossola
and Brieg over the Simplon. .

A good carriage-road leads from
Arona to Orta(Rte. 118), ] 5kil.»9im.

An onmibus thither daily.

The Steamers proceed from Arona to
Sesto CSalende, at the outlet of the
Ticino from the lake : here is the ter-
minus of the Bailway direct (2 hrs.) to

Milan Tebmxnub. (InUf H. de la
Ville.) See Handbook North Italy.

ROUTE 112.

DOMO D'OBSOLA to LOCARNO, BT THE
VAL VSGEZaSO.

This route, which is the direct way
from Domo to the N. end of the Lago
Maggiore, is very little ft'equented by
strangers, although it abounds in fine
scenery. The distance is about 30 m.,
and there is a good carriage-road up
the Val Vege2zo to Melasco, which is
ultimately to be carried to Locarno.
The Val Vegezzo opens out into the Val
d'Ossola about half a mile above Domo.
It contains many handsome villas be-
longing to natives of Ihe valley, who
have returned to end their days there
after havinip made their fortunes in
business. This valley does not lead
to a well-defined col, but to a sort of
t&bl6-Uud, about 1600 ft. above Domd,
0^ which is situated the f)rinel|)at viU
Iftge of the valley.

ll m. Sta. Maria Maggiore; nedtly 3
hrs. in a char up hill from Donio. From

312

BOUTE 113. ^BELLINZONA TO LOCARNO.

Sect. II.

hence there is a pus to the S.E., lead-
ing through the Val Canobbina to
CanobbiOy on the Lago Maggiore. The
route (path) to Locarno, 6 hrs., de-
scends from Sta. Maria Maggiore
along the Melezzo torrent, through a
valley called CenUmdli,

It b about 6 hrs. walk by a rough
path from Malesco to Locarno, passing
Borgnone about half way. From

Intrqgna (Bustallo's Inn) the carriage-
road begins. A. little below Intragna
the MelezKo torrent joins that from
the Val Oszernone, and about 2 miles
farther the joint stream unites with
the Maggia near the town of

Locarno Csee Bte. 113).

ROUTE 113.

BELLINZONA TO MAGADINO OR
LOCARNO.

The Swiss ports of Magadino and
Locarno are nearly opposite to each
other at the N. end of the La&^o Mag-
giore. Though Locarno is the more
important place, the steamers start
from Magadino (calling at Locarno),
Magadino being nearer to Bellin-
zona and the road of the St Gothard.
It is 9 m. (carriage 10 fr.) from Bel-
linzona to Magadino, and about 12^
to Locarno (carriage 15 fr.). Omni-
buses ply to both places to meet the
steamers.

The lower part of the valley of the
Ticino, between Bellinzona and the
lake, is a broad plain, from which the
mountains recede to a considerable
distance, but still giye grandeur to the
landscape. The country is highly
cultivated, the slopes covered with
vineyards, but the bottom becomes
marshy lower down, and is therefore
imhealthy.

a. On quitting Bellinzona for Maga-
dino by tne Lugano gate the dry bed
of a torrent called Dragonata is passed.
As its name would imply, it is at times
a great scourge; it carried off in 1768
the Franciscan convent outside the
town, and threatens similar injury.

There are many country-houses on
the outskirts ; and high upon the
slopes of the hills are numerous build-
ings, now deserted, to which in ancient
times the natives of Bellinzona used
to resort for safety when the plague
was raging in the town. At Cade-
nazzOf the road to Lugano, over the
Monte Cenere (Bte. 114), turns to the
E. out of our route.

Magadino, {Inn: H. Belvedere, not
recommended, dirty and dear.) The
reputation of the unhealthiness of
this place has been exaggerated, and
can only apply to the months of Sep-
tember ana October, when fevers are
at times prevalent owing to the neigh-
bouring delta of the Ticino; much has
been done to remedy this, and effec-
tually.

Magadino, since the opening of the
Railway between Turin, Genoa, and
Arona, and the establishment of se-
veral daily lines of steamers in cor-
respondence with it, has become a
place of considerable commercial im-
portance. Through it is carried a large
amount of agricultural produce to
Piedmont and Lombardy, and of the
produce of the latter, including manu-
factures and colonial produce, for the
consumption of Switzerland. Live
stock especially is shipped from it in

freat numbers to the plains of Xom-
ardy and Piedmont, and to Genoa.
The hours of saUing of the steamers
are liable to change. Travellers should
consult the latest advertisements.

b. To Locarno. Carriage and 2
horsjBs in 2 hrs. (15 fr.). The road
hilly, but very beautifriL Rly. in
contemplation. The road crosses
the Ticino by a long bridge of 14
arches. In the autumn the river
is very small, but is flooded in the
spring and is kept in by a strong
dyke called Tondo Bipario, con-
structed by the French under Francis
L The road now leaves the flat and

Tiedh Sf Savoy.

ROUTE 113. — LOCARNO.

313

passes under the Monte Carasso, and
commands a good view of the oppo-
site mountains, including the Monte
Cenere, and up the valley over the ro-
mantic town of Bellinzona to the snowy-
Alps towering behind it. The road then
passes through a wall constructed by
the Swiss (since 1 848) as a fortification.
At the bridge of Bementina, a torrent
issuing out of a ravine on the rt. forms
a pretty waterfall. The latter part of
the route, after crossing the torrent
Verzasca as it winds along the W.
shore of the lake, is delightful, carried
amongst villas and chestnut-trees,
mulberry- trees, and vines, and com-
manding exquisite views of the lake
and mountains. The road though
hilly is excellent, and there is not a
more beautiftd drive in Switzerland.

Locarno (Gernu Luggarus). (^Inns:
Corona, by the lake, very fair — atten-
tive waiter; Svizzero, in the town, tole-
rably ffood). This is one of the three
capitals of canton Tessin ; it has 3000
Inhab., and is said to have once con-
tained many more, but has decayed
since the 15th century in population
and prosperity. It is beautifully situ-
ated on the margin of the lake, on
which it has a little port, at the
foot of the wooded cliffs surmounted
hv the church of Madonna del Sasso,
the most picturesque of monastic
groups, and near the entrance of
tiie converging valleys of Verzasca,
Maggia, Ozzemone, and Centovalli.
The people, the vegetation, and
the sky are aU Italian. The groves
of orange and lemon, the tall white
steeples on the hill-sides, and the
little white chapels peering out from
among the trel&sed vines, and mir-
rored in the glassy lake, are all
characteristic features of an Italian
landscape, even though, as far as fron-
tier lines are concerned, we are still in
Switzerland. The deposits of the nu-
merous torrents here flowing into the
lake have encroached considerably
upon it, forming a flat delta. The spot
is one of singular beauty, and greatly
to be preferred to Magadino by travel-
lers requiring to halt for the night near
the head of the Lago Maggiore, pre-

vious to embarking, or willing to re-
main there for a few days to explore
the neighbouring valleys.

The Govemrfkent House, in the midst of
a square planted with shrubberies, was
built by a joint-stock company for the
sittings of the grand council. In the
old castle are some antique rooms
with beautiful wood-carvings. The
Madonna del Sasso, 20 min. walk above
the town, is well worth a visit. The
path is formed into a Calvary, infe-
rior to those at Bomo d'Ossola and
Varallo, but- beautifully laid out with
steps and paths cut in the rock. The
portico of the church commands an
exquisite view over the blue lake, and
the entrance of the valley of the
Ticino, whose winding course may
be traced flashing in the sun. More-
over its church contains paintings by
Luini, stuccoes, bas-reliefs, &c. From
this a footpath leads in 10 min. to the
Monte de la IVinitd, commanding an
extensive panorama. On Sunday,
Jan. 9, 1863, a portion of the roof
of the parish ch. (S. Antonio), being
loaded with snow, gave way under
the weight, fell upon the congregation
at prayers, and crushed to death 47
persons, chiefly women.

The market at Locarno, held once
a fortnight, is frequented by the na-
tives of the neighbouring valleys, and
exhibits a singular mixture of cos-
tumes.

In former days the power and in-
tolerance of the Romish priesthood
acted prejudicially to the liberties
and interests of Locarno, compelling
those among the citizens who had
adopted the Reformed faith to emi-
grate. In March, 1553, 116 persons,
including women and children, who
had refused to purchase the privilege
of remaining by the sacrifice of their
religion, were banished by a decree of
the Swiss Diet, and quitted their
homes for ever. With them went in-
dustry and prosperity ; they settled
at Ziirich, transferring thither the
manufacture of silk, which is now of
such vast commercial importance to
that city. The day after the sentence

314 ROUTE 114. — BEU4INZONA TO LUGANO AND COMO, Sect. II.

of eadle had been pronounced, the
papal nuncio arrived with two in-

aiusiton: he indignantly objected to
16 mildness of the sentence, and
ur|j;ed the deputies of the diet, under
pain of the pope's displeasure, to
couple with it confiscation of the goods
of the heretics, and separation of
them from their children, in order
that they mi^ht be educated by the

5 nests. To this demand, howeyer, the
eputies did not yield obedience. The
doctrines of the Beformation were
preached here first by Beocaria, a
pious Milanese monk, about 1534: he
was soon ezpdled, and took xefoge in
the Yal Misocco.

There were 21 convents in canton
Tessin, but nearly all of them are now
suppressed. The criminal statistics of
the district around Locarno formerly
showed a large amount of crime in
proportion to the number of inha-
bitants. The neighbouring valley of
Yersasca was in evil repute for the
number of assassinations committed
in it At certain seasons, when the
vines require pruning, the men wear
at their girdle, behind, a knife a foot
long, called faiciuolo — a very awkward
weapon; but we have been assured by
the municipal authorities that this
state of things is ereatly amended.
However, pofitical feeling still runs
high amoi^g so hot-blooded a people.
In 1855 one of the most influential
men in the town, leader of one
party, was deliberately murdered by
two brothers, leaders of the otiier
party. The two brothers were sen-
tenced to perpetual imprisonment;
but the superior tribunal, having de-
cided ** that this crime ought not to
rank with common offences,'* soon set
them at liberty.

The Yal Maggia (Germ. Mayen-
thal), which opens out dose to Lo-
carno, is a very considerable val-
ley with many tributaries. Half an
hour's drive, on the way to the Yal
Maggia, is the Ponte Brdla^ an ancient
and picturesque bridge A carriage-
road has been made to Cemo (a toler-
able Inn)y in the main valley, about
18 m. from Locarno, and thence 9 m.
to Peccia^ through the branch csiUed

Vol Zatrizzara, From Fusio^ the high-
est rillage in that branch of the valley,
there is a pass to Airolo in 6 hrs. The
pass of the Criner Furca frx>m Cevio to
the Yal Formazza is noticed in Rte.
62. At the head of the Yal Ozzer-
none, another tributary valley, are the
Baths of Craoeggioj saia to be service-
able in scromlons cases and in in-
ternal obstructions. The route to
Domo d'Ossola by the Centovalli is
described Bte. 112. These valleys
are rarely visited by strangers.

ROUTE 114.

BELUMZONA TO LUGANO AND COMO, BY
THE MONTE OENERE.

To Lueano, 2] Swisspostss=20 Eng.
m. Although the distance is so
small, it will occupy 4 hrs. Lugano to

Como, 2} posts s= 19 £ng. m.

Diligences daily to Lugano (4 fr.
20), and Como (8 fr. 70).

This road turns out of the valley
of the Tessin at Cadenazzo(Rte. 113),
5 m. below Bellinzona, and begins
to ascend the Monte Cenere, a
steep mountain, whose sides, shady
with walnut and chesnut wood, are
scaled by numerous zigzags, cc«n-
manding exquisite views of the Yale
of the Tessin and head of Lago Ma^-
ffiore. The top cannot be reached m
less than 2 hrs. from Bellinzona (Ren-
fort to Caserma.) Even a light car-

iPtetf- ^ Savoy. route 114. — lugako. mendrisio.

315

riage must take 4 post-horses to as-
ceml. . This part or the road has long
been infestea by robbers, and, not
long ago, the night diligence, in cross-
ing it, was accompanied by an armed
escort; but, since a guardhouse of
carabineers has been estabUshed on
the summit, there appears to be less
danger, if rom the summit a fine view
is obtained over the N. extremity of
the Lago Maggiore. At Rioera the
road falls in with the river Agno,
which rises about 12 m. to the E., at
the foot of the Monte Camoghe, and
follows it through Bironico to Morone,
where it turns to the L, and again as-
cends a slight eminence, whence an
interesting prospect opens out on the
opposite descent towards Lugano. In
front expands its beautifiil lake, backed
by mountains ; and, on the rt., the
Monte Salvadore, with the church on
its conical summit, becomes conspi-
cuous.

Lugano (Germ. Lauis) (see Bte. 115)
is distant about 19 m. from Como
(3 hrs. posting) and 12 from Yarese:
the Lago di Como at Menaggio, on
the E., may be reached in 3 hrs., and
the Lago Maggiore at Luino in less
(Bte. 115).

The road to Como runs by the
water-side, under the Monte Salva-
tore. The limestone rocks, compos-
ing its base, exhibit a singular phe-
nomenon, highly interesting to the
geologist About 10 minutes' walk
beycmd the chapel of San Martino, a
compact smoke -grey limestone ap-
pears by the road-side, in beds about
a foot thick. <* The further we ad-
▼■nee, the more we find the beds of
limestone traversed by small veins,
fined vnth rhombs of dolomite. As
we advance, the rock appears divided
by fissures, the stratification ceases to
be distinct, and, where the face of the
mountain becomes perpendicular, it is
found to be formed entirely of dolo-
mite, which becomes gradually purer
and more white, until a littte way
f^om Melide, where it is succeeded by a
dark at^te porphyry." The geolo-
gist Yon Buch considered that the
diaeharged from this latter igneous

rock, at the time when the mountain
was upheaved by volcanic forces from
below, has penetrated the fissures of
the limestone, and changed the part of
it nearest to the porphyry into dolo-
mite. The change in colour and sub-
stance, from a grey limestone into a
white crystalline marble, like loaf-
sugar, may be easily traced in its gra-
dual transition by the road-side. As-
cent of the Monte Salvadore. See
Bte. 115.

At Melide a promontory projects
into the lake, f^om the point of which
a stone causeway 2400 ft. long has
been thrown across, connected with
either shore by stone bridges — thus
replacing an inconvenient ferry, to
Bissone, It cost more than a million
francs. Melide is £he birthplace of
Fontana, the architect, who, m 1586,
transported the Egyptian obelisk
from the Coliseum at Bome, and
erected it on the square in front of
the Yatican.

After a delightful ride along the
shore of the lake, the road quits it at
Capoktgo, where were 2 printing-offices,
chiefly of prohibited books, and com-
mences a long ascent by

Mendrisio (Inn, Angelo), a town of
1700 Inhab. It is supposed to be the
cradle of the once-powerfiil Milanese
family DeUe Torre, or Torriani. The
inhabitants keep their wine in caves in
the mountains, which form capital
cellars.

[From Mendrisio, or the neighbour-
ing village of BcUerna, is the most con-
venient point for ascending the Monte
Generoso, called also Monte GionnerOy
the Rigi of the Italian lakes, and in
naturafadvantages no way inferior to
its Swiss rivaL There is this great
difference between them— that on the
Rigi numerous hotels, and a whole
army of guides, mides, and other as-
sistants, await the tourist, while the few
travellers who ascend the Monte Gene-
roso find nothing of the sort. There
is a large dairy *farm, perhaps 1 hr.
from the top, on the S.$. side, where
milk and Wad can be had. A

316

ROUTE 115. — BAVENO TO C50M0. LUGANO.

Sect II.

mountaineer will hare no difficulty
in reaching the summit from any
side; but the easiest way is by the
Val Mvggio, which opens out at the
Tillage of Balema. Unless the tra-
veller be well used to rough quarters,
he will do better to sleep at Men-
drisio, and start 2 or even 3 hrs. be-
fore daylight. There are no regular
guides, and the best are boys who
are used to tend' cattle on the moun-
tains. The panorama is one of the very
finest in the entire chain of the Alps.]

The Italian custom-house and
police-office is reached a little be-
yond Chiasso, and within 2 miles
of constant descent of

CoHO {Irm, Angelo). In Handbook
FOR North Italy. Railway from
Camerlata (stat. on the top of a hill,
1 m. above the town) to Monza and
Milan. Trains 4 times a day.

ROUTE 115.

BAVENO TO THE LAKE OP COMO, BY
LUINO AND THE LAKE OF LUGANO.

This is perhaps the most agreeable
mode of approaching the Lake of
Oomo and combining in a single ex-
cursion the finest portions of the 3
lakes, Maggiore, Lugano, and Como.

Travellers coming from Turin or
Gknoa may take the steamer at
Arona; those from the St. Gothard
may start from Magadinoor Locarno;
while those who have crossed the
Simplon, or who arrive frt>m the val-
leys of Monte Rosa imd th^ J^ake of

Orta^ will make Baveno the point of
departure. In each case they wiU
land at

Zuino (Jnn: H. della Beccaccia,
very fair, civil people ; Garibaldi
made a stand in this house in 1849,
and the walls still bear marks of
the bullets), a small village, on the
£. shore of the Lago Ma^ore, the
birthplace of the painter Bernardino,
named after it Luini, A caliche
with 2 horses to Lugano costs 15 frs.
There is a DUigence daily correspond-
ing with the steamers which touch
here early, returning from Luciano at
3 P.M. A good carriage-road leads
hence to Lugano, 13 or 14 m., a drive
of 2} hrs., ascending, directly from the
margin of the lake, the steep hills
behind Luino, which command a fine
prospect. It then follows the rt. bank
of the Tresa, upwards, at a consider-
able height above that river, through
a beautiml valley, crossing die Swiss
frontier about 3 m. from Luino.

Ponte li^sa, a village of 365 In-
habitants, is named fr^m an old
wooden bridge which leads to the
rt.. away from our road, across the
river into Lombardy. At the further
end stands the Italian toll and cus-
tom-house ; and, on this side, a Swiss
toll is exacted. A proportion of the
cattle with which Lombardy is sup-
plied by Switzerland, pass over it.
The village is prettily situated on a
bay of the Lago Lugano, so com-
pletely land-locked as to seem a dis-
tinct hike.

Another of the winding reaches of
the lake stretches N. about half a nule
on the E. of our road, as far as

AgnOf a village of 600 Inhab.,
placed at the spot where the Ag^o,
or Bedagio, empties itself into the
lake.

One of the prettiest scenes on this
very picturesque road is that pre-
sented by the village and small lake
of Huzzano, which lies on the 1. of
the road to

Lugano — Inns : H. du Fare, large,
and well situated on the site of uie
Convent of the Angels; baths in the
housp— ^liarges, in siipoiper 9 ft*, a

Pied^' if Savoy. ROITTE 115. — ^loqano. monte salv adore. 317

day, in winter 6 fr. ; Albergo Sviz-
zero; Couronne. Eng. Ch. seir.

Lugano, one of the 3 chief towns of
the canton Tessin, and the largest,
most thriving in trade, and most ex-
tending in population, contains 5600
Ihhab., and is charmingly situ^|»d on
the mar^ of the Lago liUgano. It is
a regular Italian town of dirty arcaded
streets, and deserves to l>e visited
only for the beauty of its site and
the scenery of its lake. The hills and
mountains around • abound in all the
productions of the luxuriant vegetation
of Italy; and numerous villas are scat-
tered along its slopes and margin,
embowered amone vmeyards and gar-
dens, and backed Dy the foliage of the
umbrageous walnut. The principal
Churchy of San Lorenzo, is planted on
an eminence, commanding a fine view.
The fft^ade is richly Mlomed with
sculpture, and is said to be from a de-
sign of Bramante,

Close to the H. du Fare is the Ch.*
of Santa Maria degli Angioii, founded in
1499, containing remarkable paintings
in fresco by Bernardino Luini; a Cru-
cifixion of large size and many figures
covering the wall which divides the
choir from the body of the ch. It is
one of the finest worKs of the Lombard
school. It is flanked by figures, life-
size, of S. Sebastian and S. Boch
(? a portrait of Luini) : observe
the angel and the devil extracting
the souls from the mouth of the
two thieves! A Madonna with the
2 children, in fresco, removed to a side-
chapel on the rt., is a work of great
beauty and refinement; the Last
Sapper, in 3 compartments. These
paintii^s were almost the last works
of Luini executed before his death,
1530.

The Post-office is in the Govern-
ment House (Palazzo Civico), in
Sefbrm-square: near it is the Ziceo
(Cantonal College). There is a
ITteatre here.

The Giardino Ciani, on the margin
of the lake, contains a statue (over-
praised), 1a Dezolazione, by Vin-
cenzo Yela, a Swiss sculptor, who
modelled the statue of William Tell
on ihe fountain before the H. dn Pare.

The landlord of the Park Hotel
has an English clergyman residing
with him in sunmier, who performs on
Sundays the Englidi church-service*

Diiigence daily to Luino (Bte. 115),
to BeUinzona, and to Como (Camer-
lata Stat.) (Bte. 114). Steamers on
the Laeo Lugano to Capo di Lago and
to Por&zza daily.

Boats on the lake, with 1 boatman,
2 fr. for the hour; with 2, 3 fr.

There are considerable factories for
throwing silk e^own in canton Tessin;
and Lugano nirther derives activity
and prosperity from being the entre-
pot of goods shipped across the lake
from Italy, to be transported over the
Alps, ana vice versa. A large fair is
held here on the 9th October.

Monte Caprino, — The mountain
opposite Lugano is penetrated by
natural erottoes, which have been
converted into cellars, called Cantine,
Numerous small houses are built over
them ; so that at a distance they have
the appearance of a village. These
are much resorted to in summer
by the townspeople on account of
their coolness.

One of the chief objects of interest
near Lugano is the panorama of
the Alps from the top of Monte
Saivadore. Time in ascending from
the hotel to a turning out of high
road into a char-road 15 min.; sharp
ascent of 20 min. to a bad mule-path;
from thence 50 min. to the summit,
2682 ft. above the sea-leveL The
slope is covered with cyclamen. This
mountain, wooded nearly to the top,
forms a promontory, washed on two
sides by the Lake of Lugano. The
view extends over numerous other
lakes, and is bounded by the snowy
chain of the Alps. The distant pros-
pect cannot be compared with that
from the Motterone, or, betterstill,frt>m
the Monte Generoso, as it is limited
in many directions by intervening
summits; but the view of the Monte
Bosa chain, and the glimpses of more
distant snowy Alps, heighten the ef^t
of the beautifrd scenery near at hand.
On the summit is a pilgrimi^e chapel.
The entire excursion takes 3 hrs.
goodwilking, or 4 on horseback. The

318

Botrrs 115. — ^lake op gomo.

Sect II.

chaige for ft hone or mole is 6 fr^
bat more is often demanded, and a
present (bwmamano) to the goide is ex-
pected. It is a good plan for ladies
to take a carriage to the beginning of
the male*path, and let it await tnor
return, while they dimb the hiU on
foot For the geology see Bte. 114.

** Monte Salvadore stands amid the
intricacies of the Lake of Lngano,
and is, from a hundred points of Tiew,
its principal ornament — ^rising to a
height of 2000 ft., and, on one side,
nearly perpendicular. The ascent is
toilacHne, but the traveller who per-
forms it will be amply rewarded.
Splendid fertility, rich woods, and
dazzling waters, seclusion and con-
finement of view contrasted with sea-
like extent of plain, fiiding into the
sky — and this again, in an opposite
quarter, with an horizon of uie lof-
tiest and boldest Alps — ^unite in com-
posing a prospect more diyersified by
magnificence, beauty, and sublimity
than perhaps any ouier point in Eu-
rope, of so inconsiderable an elevation,
commands." — Wordsworth.

The Logo Lugano (called also Cere"
SK>) is exceedingly irregular in shape,
making several very acute bends, so
that the conspicuous mountain Salva-
dore stands on a promontory, washed
on two sides by its waters : its greats
est lenffth is about 20 m. Its £. and
W., ana one of its S. arms, terminate
in the Lombard territory.

The scenery of this lake is sur-
passingly beautiful, and has a cha-
racter distinct from that of 4ts two
neighbours, Como and Maggiore, in
being more rugged and unculti-
vateo. It at the same time presents
great variety ; near Lugano its shores
are as smiling, as frequently speckled
with white viflas and churches, and as
richly fringed with vines, fig-trees,
and wahiut-groves, as the more gar-
den-like bor&rs of the Lago di Como ;
but, in penetrating its £. bay from
Lugano to Forlezza, the mountains
gradually assuuM a more wild and
precipitous outline, and the darker
tints of the rock and oak copse fur^
nish the predominating colour.

Steamer from Capo di Lago to Lu-

gano, and Lugano to Porlezza. Those
who wish to enjoy the scenery at their
leisure wiil prefer a row-boat — charge
with 1 rower 7 fr., with 2 rowers

lafr.

Porlezza lies within the Italian
frontier. Chars may be hired here
to go to Menaggia The road tra-
verses a very pretty valley, passing
on the rt. the little lake of Piano.
It is a walk of shout 2 hrs. (carriage
10 or 12 fr.) to reach

Menaggio (^Iim: Corona), an unim-
portant village on the W. ^ore of the
Lago di Coma Near it is ^e YiUa
Vigoni^ formerly Myiius, with some
good statues. The pedestrian, with
a guide, ma^ reach Cadenabbia or La
Majolica without descending to Me-
naggio. The path is rough, but the
scenery beautuuL Exceltent Hotels
are the fiellevue at Cadenabfna, and
the good and quiet Hotel de la Yille
de Milan at La Majolica, dose to
which the steamers stop.

LAK£ OF COVO.

From the hill above Menaggio, on
the Forlezza road, the travdkr ob-
tains his first view of the lake of
Como, at perhaps the most beautiful
point of wis most beautiful of the
Italian lakes.

The Lake of Como, called by the
ancients Lacus Larws (te X^ari Max-
ume I — Ftrgr.), is about 40 miles lon^,
from N. to S. Its S. extremity is
divided into two branches by the
promontory of Bellaggio ; at the bot-
tom of one of these bays lies Cknno
(Comum), the birthplace of Pliny
and Yolta ; and, at the extremity of
the other, on the £., Lecco, The chief
feeder of the lake is the Adda, which
enters it at the N., and flows out at
Lecco. Taken altogether, it perhaps
surpasses in beauty of sceneiy, and m
the richness of its v^;etation, every
other lake in Italy. U enjoys a clas-
sical reputfttioA, as the residence of the
two PUnys, and the scene of the scien-
tific researches of the elder Pliny, the
naturalist. Claudian describes the

Pie^f* 4r Savoy, route 115. — gravedoka. la majolica. 319

boatmen. Several fatal accidents have
happened to foreign visitors. The
boats are most picturesque, and exactly
resemble those depicted by old painters.
They are not so slow as their appear-
ance would lead one to expect.

The principal places on the £. shore
of the lake are noticed in Ete. 116. The
following are the chief places on the
W. shore and on the Como branch of
the lake, commencing at the N. end.

DomasOf nearly opposite to Ck>lico.
From hence there is a pass into the
Yal Misoceo, and another over the
JortQ JPass (about 7000 ft.) to Bellin-
zona in 6 hrs. 2 m. from hence is

Graoedona, a large and populous
villag^e with a church of the 13th cent.,
containing some ancient Christian in-
scriptions from an earlier building.

Dongo^ and

Musso, have little of interest.

Eezzonico has the remains of a Idth
cent, stronghold, now belonging to
the Duke Litta. The boatmen here
have the name of being the best on
the lake, and will venture out when
others dare not put out to meet the
steamer.

Menaggio has been already noticed.

La Majolica, in a woody situation,
200 yards from the steamer's land-
ing-place at Cadenabbia, consists of
but 3 or 4 houses close to the lake.
A short walk with a gentle ascent
leads to the church of La Madonna di
San Martino, perched upon a shelf of
rock overhanging the lake and com-
manding a beautiful view. A longer
excursion, which may be made from
hence or from Cadenabbia, is the
ascent of the Monte Crocione. There
is a circuitous path by which mules
may (?) reach the summit, but the
direct way is steep and fatiguing, and
at the top the grass is even dangerously
slippery. The finest view is not that
from the N. point where stands a large
wooden cross, but from another summit
&rther W. The view, though of course
very fine, is not equal to those from
the Monte Generoso, the Legnone, or
the Corno di Canzo.

Cadenabbia {Inns : *Bellevue, very
good, dean and comfortable, cooler
than Bellaggio, English service;

voyage up the lake in the foUowing
elegant lines : —

** Protinns aittbrosfiqtifi Vttatit littns olivfi
L^as, et dalci ntentitur Nerea fluctu,
Parva pcqppe lacum pnetervolat, ocius inde
Scandit inaeceasos Imunali sidere montes."

A true poetic picture is presented

by the author or * Philip van Arte-

velde:' —

" Sublime, bat neither bleak nor bare,
Nor misty are the mountains there,
Softly sublime— proAuely fldr,
Up to their snmmits clothed in green.
And fimitftil as the vales between.
They lightly rise.
And seue the skies,
Andjnoves and gardens still abound ;
For where no shoot
Could else take root
The peaks are shelved, and terraced round.
Earthward appear in mingled growth

The mulberry and maise, above
The trellis'd vine extends to both

The leafy shade they love.
Limks oat the white-waird cottage here.
The lowly chapel rises near;
Fbr down the foot must roam to reach
The lovely lake and bending beach ;
While chesnut green and olive gray
Chequer the steep and winding way.**

To describe all the objects of interest
on the shores of the lake, and the ex-
CQisions which may be made among
the surrounding mountains and valleys,
would fill a moderate volume. The
majori^ of visitors, however, content
themselves with the immediate shores
and neighbourhood of the lake, and
with the exquisite views which they
obtain without labour from the boat or
steamer on the lake.

The proper fare for a row-boat is

1 fr. an hour for each boatman. When

time is not an object and the weather

is settled one boatman is enough.

In fine weather during summer the

wmds are invariable : nrom sunrise to

10 or 11 a gentle breeze, N., or down

the lake : calm for an hour or two till

past 12, when a gentle breeze, S., or

vp the lake, rises, and continues till

sunset, after which a dead calm till

sunrise. Boats avail themselves of

this, and wait for wind as a river

barge waits for tide. As a general

role the surface of the lake is but

slightly furrowed ; sudden storms are,

lio^v^ever, not rare, and the violent

squalls that sometimes sweep down the

lake are dangerous to inexperienced

820

llOtJTE 115i — BELLA^IOIO. MOfTRASlO.

Sect. II.

Belle lie, also well spoken of), a
place of great resort with the Mi-
lanese in summer. Close to Cadenab-
bia is the Villa Carhtta, formerly
Sommariva (belonging to the Duke of
Saxe-Meiningen), among terraces bor-
der^ with myrtle hedges 20 ft. high.
This place contains the Amore e Psyche,
and other works of Ccmova, and, above
all, Thortoaldsen's grand bas-relief, the
Triumph of Alexander, executed for
Napoleon when Emperor, and designed
by him to decorate the Simplon arch
at Milan.

Opposite to Cadenabbia extends the
promontory of Bellaggio.

BeUaggio. (/mu .• *H. Grande Bre-
tagne, with gardens and excellent
view; first-rate in comfort, cleanli-
ness, and proprietor, but dear. Eng-
lish Church service. It is admi-
rably kept by M. and Mdme. Antonio
Mella ; — H. Genazzini good ; H. and
Pension de Florence.) This is a
delightful spot, commanding noble
views over Uie lake. The prospect
is triple, extending upwards, as well
as down towards Como and Lecco.
The best points for enjoying it are the
terraces and delightfiil gardens of the
VUla Serbelloni above the village.
There are no walks, however; nothinff
but narrow stony lanes between dead
walls, obstructing all view.

The Villa Mehi, another palace, is
elegantly fitted. It has fine works of
art— statues, busts, a portrait of Na-
poleon; chiefly visited on account of
Its beautiful flower-garden, abounding
in tropical plants, rare pines, &c.

The Villa Oiulia belongs to the Kin^
of the Belgians. View over Lago di
Lecco.

There are other villas in the neigh-
bourhood to which the boatmen will
take visitors. They all have their
state-rooms, but are principally re-
markable for the luxuriance with
which English green-house plants
flourish in Sie open air.

There cannot be a more delightful
voyage than that along the S.W.
arm of the lake to Como ; the shores
are literally speckled with villages

and with white villas, the summer
resort of the Milanese gentry during
the season of the Villeggiatura.

The village seen on the W. shore,
immediately after leaving Cadenab-
bia, is

I^vmezzo, with a second-rate Inri,
Beyond this a rocky promontory stands
out into the lake ; its rounded summit
is laid out as pleasure-ground, and
near the point is the fine Villa Balbia-
nellOf belonging to Count Arcouati. A
few miles further on the same side is

Argeffno, at the opening of the Val
Intelvi. From hence the Monte Ge-
neroso (Rte. 114) may conveniently
be ascended. Nearly opposite is

Nesso ; above it, in a narrow ravine
called the Orrido di Nesso, is a water-
fidl not worth a visit from those who
have seen the Alps. About 7 m.
farther £. is

La Pliniana, now the property of
Marchesa Trotti (or Princess Belgio-
joso), a square building, so called, not
because Pliny lived here, but because
an intermittent spring, rising behind
it, is asserted to be the one minutely
described by him.

The Villa Lenno is supposed to stand
on the site of Pliny's Villa, which,
from its sombre situation, he called
Dragedia ; an opinion confirmed by the
discovery of broken colunms, &c.^ in
the lake.

Nearly opposite is the hamlet of
Moltrasio, which also boasts its water-
fall ; near to it is the large Villa Pas^
salacqua; and on the opposite or £.
shore, on a projecting point, is the
picturesque village of Tomo. Thence
to Como, wherever the slope of the
mountain is not too steep, villas con-
stantly succeed each other. Those of
Madame Ta^ioni the opera dancer,
of Prince Trubetzkoi, of Madame
Pasta the singer, and of Count Ta-
vema, are amongst the most notice-
able. These villas, like all the places
on the E. shore of this branch of the
lake, are accessible only by water, or
by an exceedingly rough path, fit
only for mountaineers.

Pied^- ir Savoy. roitte 116. — chiavenna to lbcco.

On the W. shore, about 2} m. from
Come, is

Cemobbio, Inn: *La Begina d'lnghil-
terra, a large and most comfortable
hotels admirable in cleanliness, good
management, and in situation, close to
the lake. It is very good and pleasant
winter quarters. Adjoining it is the
Villa d'Este, for some time the residence
of the late Queen Caroline. The Monte
BisbinOf which rises N. of the hotel,
and may be ascended in 2^ hrs., com-
mands an admirable view. There is
a good carriage-road to Gomo, and
omnibus to Como, ^ hr. drive, and to
Camerlata Stat. On the way is passed
the VUla Ramondiy one of the largest
on the lake.

321

CoHO. — Inns : Angelo, close ^ to
the steamboat quay, good; Italia:
neither of them comparable to the
hotel at Cemobbio. See Cathedral,
Kom. (1396) ; its Baptistery a design
of Bramante's ; 3 paintings by Luini.
Broletto (town-hall), 13th centy., on
arches. These buildings are of mar-
ble, in stripes. For a description of
this very interesting town see Hand-
book FOB N. Italy.

Travellers bound for Milan should
not forget that the rly. stat. is at
Camerlata, 1^ m. up hill (omnibus
in 20 min.). The antiquary should
not omit to visit the church of S,
Abbaadh^ 10th cent., about a mile out
of the town. The villages by the
lake and the scattered hamlets on the
mountains are believed to contain
many remains of early middle-age
architecture which would well repay
earefhl investigation.

{SuAtz.'\

ROUTE 116.

CHIAVENNA TO LECCO.

£ng. m.
Chiavenna.
Riva ........ 9

Colico 9

Yarrana . . . . ^ . . 11
Lecoo 15

The high-road connecting the pass of
the Spliigen with Milan runs through
the valley of the Maira or Mera, and
is thence carried along the £. shore
of the L. of Como to Lecco. A dili-
gence leaves Chiavenna ^ hour after
midnight and reaches Lecco about 7 ;
from thence it ^oes on to the rly. stat.
at Monza, arriving in time for the train
which reaches Milan at 10 o'clock.
There is also an omnibus from Chia-
venna to meet the lake steamer at
Colico. Below Chiavenna (Rte. 87)
the valley of the Maira is flat and
marshy till it reaches

Rifoa, near the N. extremity of the
Lago Mezzola, called also Lago di
RiTa. It is a most picturesque small
lake, so walled in bv mountains that,
until a few years, there was no road
by the side of it, and travellers were
carried across it in flat barges by a
tedious navigation, rendered difficult
and intricate by the annually in-
creasing deposits of mud, which form
shoals between this lake and that of
Como, and prevent the steamboat as-
cending to Riva. The naked and
savage mountains around have a very
peculiar outline. Their sides are fur-
rowed with ravines, down which furi-
ous torrents precipitate themselves at
some seasons, strewing the margin of
the lake with wreck. The engineers
who constructed the capital new road,
finished in 18d5| experienced the great*

322

ROUTE 116. — COUCO. VAEENNA.

Sect II.

est obstacles in crossing the d^ris at
the mouth of these raTines. The
Codera, one of the most furious tor-
rents, spreads out its waste of rocks
and grayel in the shape of a fan, for a
breadth of at least half a mile. This
riverat ordinary times trickles through
the stones in 3 or 4 paltry driblets,
crossed by wooden bridges, under
which the water is turned by the
construction of artificial canals, flanked
by wedge-shaped dams and dykes.
After trayersing this desolate space
the road is carried through two galle-
ries excavated in the rock, and soon
after emerges upon the delta of the
river Adda, flowing from the E. out
of the Valt^ine into the lake of Como.
There can be little doubt that the lake
originally bathed the feet of the moun-
tain on this side ; but, in the course of
ages, the deposits brought down by
the Adda and Maira have so far en-
croached on it as to form an extensive
plain of swamp and morass, through
which the river Adda now winds.
The new causeway stvetches in a
straight line across this morass, passing
the Adda upon a long wooden bridge,
too narrow for more than one carriage
at a time. Near the centre of the
plain the great road to the Stelvio
branches off on the 1. (See Handbook
FOB South Germany.) The Spanisli
Fort Fuentes, built 1603, as the key of
the Valteline, on a rock, once, perhaps,
an island, near the mouth of the Adda,
is left on the rt., and the margin of
the lake of Oomo is reached at

CoHcOf a village situated under the
Monte Legnone, immediately S. of the
embouchure of the Adda. It is less
unwholesome than formerly, owing to
the drainage of a large portion of the
marsh-land. It is not, however, a good
halting-place; the indifferent Irmsy
All' Isola Bella and Angelo, are poor
and not dean.

Steamboats from Como arrive off
Colico every day, about noon, and re-
turn in half an hour. On some days
in the week there is also a steamer
early in the morning. They will em-
bark or disembark a carriage; &re,
first class, 3 frs. Boats may at all
times be hired here to cross or descend

the lake, but they are dear, and are
scarcely safe for carriages.

Diligences daily — to Bormio Baths
at the foot of the Stelvio, passing
through Sondrio; to Milan, across
the Splugen.

For Bellaggio and the villas on the
Lake, see Rte. 115.

[Colico is the best point from whence
to undertake the ascent of the Legnone
(about 8600 Eng. ft), the highest
mountain rising from the shores of the
lake. It is a long and fatiguing day's
work, but the view from the summit
when clear, which is not very com-
monly the case, must be of the highest
order .3 About half way to Varenna
is CwermOf near the opening of the
Vol Varrone, from whence the ascent of
the Legnone is also practicable. The
whole road from Colico to Varenna is
a remarkable specimen of engineering
for the time when it was constructed.
In several places the mountains de-
scend so steeply into the lake that it
was necessary to carry the road
through tunnels excavated in the solid
rock. 9 m. from Colico is

BelJano, at the mouth of the Pionema,
the stream from the Val Sassina, a beau-
tiful valley, through which the pedes-
trian who has alrtody seen the lake
may reach Lecco in 6 or 7 hrs., passing
Introbbio, the principal village of the
valley, where there is a tolerable Jnn.
On the slope of the mountain above
Bellano, and about 500 ft. above the
lake, is the Hydropathic Establishment
of Begoledo, much frequented both by
Milanese and by foreigners. It is said
to be well conducted.

Varerma (/nn, Albergo Marcionney
on lake, good and clean), the best
stopping place on the E. side of
the lake. Visit the remarkable gal-
leries near it, excavated in the solid
rock, to allow that magnificent JSoad
to the Stelvio Pass to traverse the EL
shore of the lake. Pleasant walks up
the mountain behind, to the Castle, to
Perleda, and along the brow of the
hill to the Cascade Flume de Latte —
extensive view.

A very interesting expedition for a
mountaineer is the ascent of the
Grigna or Monte Codme (7986 ft), the

Pied^- d Savoy. route 117.— arona to varallo.

323

rugged range which in tier over tier of
dolomite precipices overhangs the S.E.
branch of the lake, commonly called
the Lago di Lecco. It is scarcely
possible to find the way without a
guide, as the mountain is not seen for
a great part of the way. The best
plan is to go first firom Varenna to the
village of Esine, and there inquire for
a shepherd boy who knows the moun-
tain and will serve as guide. The way
to the summit presents the utmost
variety of beautiful and wild scenery.
Food should be taken, as none will be
found, and it is not too much to allow
13 or 14 hrs., inclusive of stoppages.
An easier but less interesting way to
reach the summit is by ascending the
steep eastern side from near Introbbio.
It would be best to combine both,
ascending from Introbbio, and de-
scending to Varenna ; but it would not
be easy to find a guide acquainted
"With both sides of the mountain.

Steamers ply on the S.E. branch, or
lake of Lecco, only on Saturdays, but
the scenery will be more fully enjoyed
from a boat. The character of this
part of the lake is very different from
the rest, being far wilder and more
rugged.

About half-way to Lecco is Man-
delloj at the mouth of a torrent de-
scending from the Grigna. By fol-
lowing this torrent an enterprising
cragsman may reach the summit of
the mountain, but it is not an excur-
sion for ordinary travellers. About 15'
Eng. m. from Varenna is

Lecco. (See Handbook for
Northern Italy.)

ROUTE 117.

ARONA TO VARALLO, IN THE VAL 8ESIA.

Eng.in.
Arona.

Borgom^ero 6 ;

Romagnano 7i

BoiigoSesia ti

Varallo 6

Altogether 5 hours' drive from
Arona to Varallo— omnibus daily.

Borgomdnero is a large well-built
town in the direct road to VerceUi and
Turin, from Arona. [From Borgomd-
nero (no post-horses) a good carriage
road runs through the vfllage of Goz-
zano to Buccione, a village at the
head of the lake of Orta, which may
be reached in an hour from Borgomd-
nero. A road has also been made
from Arona to Orta, avoiding the de-
tour by Borgomanero. The scenery
on the road, especially the approach
to the lake of Orta (Rte. 118), is very
fine. At Buccione boats may be had
to Omegna at the lower end of the
lake, distant 9 m< ; or to Orta.]

324

ROUTE 117. — VARALLX).

Sect. n.

From Bargomdnero there is an
excellent' road to the little town of
Somagnano on the Sesia (iniif La
Posta), remarkable as the spot where
Bayard — sans peur et sans reproche —
received his death-wound while pro-
tecting the rear of the French under
Bonnivet in their retreat across the
Alps, April 20, 1524. From Bomag-
nano the road up the course of the
Sesia is singularly beautiful ; the
mountains as they are approached
offer richly wooded slopes, and the
masses are relieved by castles,
churches, and oratories. The vege-
tation is most luxuriant ; several
villages are passed.

The principal place before arriving
at Yarallo is Borgo Sesia, ^ust above
the junction of the Strona, on which
stream lies Val Duggia, birthplace of
Gaudenzio Ferrari, the painter. Here
the valley becomes narrower, and the
road offers some striking scenes,
though the range of view is more
limited. It opens again in the neigh-
bourhood of

Varallo, Inns: Albergo d*Italia —

food; dinner, 3^ fr.; bed, 2 fr.;
reakfast, Ij fr. La Poste, fine view,
equally good. Falcone Nero, an
Italian trattoria. There is need of
many inns to provide for the bodily
wants of the pilgrim visitors to the
Sacro Monte, who, especially on the
Festas of the. Church, crowd here as
devotees. The situation of this town,
and the sanctuary on its celebrated
Sacro Monte — La Nuova Gerusalemme
nel Sacro Monte di Varallo, as the
guide-book calls this extraordinary
place of pilgrimage — ^present singular
and interesting scenes, which no one
who has the means should neglect to
visit. Its old houses and richly
wooded slopes form a tableau that
few sketchers fail to possess.

The * Sacro Monte rises immediately
above the town, and is accessible by a
paved path, which winds up the side
of the hill, and offers from every turn
picturesque and beautiful scenes.

In the fine Ch, of 3, JFyancisco, at the

foot of the S. Monte, are some admirable
works by Gaudenzio Ferrari, a native of
Val Duggia, on the Strona, a pupil
and companion of Baphael, executed
after his return from Bome, 1510-13.
The whole wall dividing the nave from
the choir (the passage from one to
the other being only mrough a small
arch) is painted by him in fresco, in
19 compartments, representing events
in our Saviour's history — ^the central
and largest being the Crucifixion.
They are all most carefully executed,
and are among the best works of the
master, serving to illustrate his po-
sition in Italian art. In a side chapel
(rt.) are also 2 frescoes by him — the
Circumcision and the Dispute with
the Doctors; not so goocL In the
cloister is a PietH; and in the Sacristy
a Virgin and saints, on wood, by
Giovenone his master, much injured.

In the Ch, of St, Gaudenzio is a
fine altarpiece on panel by G. Fer-
rari.

The hill of the Sacro Mont^ is
covered with a series of 50 chapels or
oratories, containing groups of figures
modelled in terra-cotta, painted and
clothed. They chiefly represent some
of the principal events in the history
of Christ, in the order of their occur-
rence. These structures are never
entered; they are merely frames or
cases for the subjects grouped within
them, seen from 2 or 3 peep-holes in
front, like those in the raree-shows.
As works of art the greater number
are very indifferent. A few, on the
contrary, by Gaudenzio and his
pupils, contain works of the hig^hest
merit, and to these the attention of
every traveller of taste is specially in-
vited. He wiU be sorrv to miss them,
as he might easily do, in passing
rapidly along the mass of rubbish.
Externally, these oratories are rich in
the architectural display of fa9ades,
porticos, domes, &c : the figures with-
in are the size of life.

The subjects are in the order of the
numbers of the chapels.

1. The Fall of Man. Adam and Bre
are seen amidst nnimalii of all

Pied*- 4r Savoy.

ROUTE 117. — ^VAKALLO.

325

sorts and sizes, from the ele-
phant to the rahhit.

2. The Annunciation. The series

which refer to Christ com-
mences.

3. The Visitation.

4. The Angel announcing to Joseph

the Miraculous Conception.

5. The Magi and Star of the East,

by Gaudenzio and his pupils.

6. The Nativity.

7. Joseph and Mary adoring Christ.

8. The rresentation in the Temple.

9. The Angel advising Joseph to

fly into Egypt.

10. The FKght

1 l.*The Murder of the Innocents. One
of the large compositions con-
tains above 60 figures, the size
of life, besides the painted
groups on the walls; so ar-
ranged as to assist the compo-
sition.

12. The Baptism in the Jordan.

13. The Temptation.

14. Christ and the Woman of Sa-

maria.

15. Christ Curing the Paralytic

16. Christ Baising the Widow's Son.

17. The Transfiguration. This ora-

tory, by Pietro Petera, a native
of V al Sesia, the largest of all,
perhaps 100 ft. high, is repre-
sented upon an enormous scale;
the group in the foreground con-
tains Uie demoniac boy ; on the
mountain, an immense modelled
mass, are the three disciples j
above them Christ, with Moses
and Elias ; over these, painted
on the walls and ceiling of the
dome, are the host of neaven;
and above all, the Almighty.

18. The Baising of Lazarus.

19. The Entrance into Jerusalem.

20. The Last Supper.

21. Christ in the Garden.

22. Christ finds his Disciples Sleep-

ing.

23. Christ betrayed by Judas.

24. Christ in the House of Anna.

25. Christ in the Hands of Caiaphas.

26. The Bepentance of St. Peter.

27. Christ in the House of Pilate.

28. Christ in the House of Herod.
2^. Christ Beconducted to Pilate,

30. The Flagellation.

31. Christ Crowned with Thorns.

32. Christ again conducted to Pilate.

33. Christ shown to the People.

34. Pilate Washing his Hands.

35. Christ sentenceid tO' Death.

36. Christ Bearing the Cross.

37. Christ Nailed to the Cross.
38.*»The Crucifixion.

The paintings on the walls and
ceiling of this chapel are the
masterpiece of Gaudenzio Fer-
rari The chief subject, a
splendid composition, including
60 or 70 figures, is in good

E reservation. Observe the soft
eautv of the group of females
and children.

39. Christ taken down from the Cross.

40. The Pieta — the Women around

the Body of Christ. This was
the earliest work of G. Ferrari.
The frescoes, now much in-
jured, were painted when he
was but nineteen. The original
modelled figures have been re-
moved, and others substituted.

41. The Body wrapped in Linen.

42. San Francesco.

43. Christ Lying in the Sepulchre.

44. Saint Anna.

45. An Angel announcing to the

Virgin Mary her Translation
to Heaven.

46. The Sepulchre of the Virgin

Mary.

All the walls are painted, and many
of the pictures are masterly produc-
tions, not unworthy of the reputation
of Pelegrino Txbcddi, whose name is
found in the list of those who were
employed upon the works of the Sacro
Monte di Varallo; together with that
of Gaudenzio Ferrari^ Fiammmgo the
famous sculptor of children, and many
other artists of eminence, as painters,
sculptors, and architects. The val-
leys of the Novarrese, of which. Val
Sesia is the principal, are remark*
able for the number of painters they
have produced, and the names of many
are preserved here as having contri-
buted to the embellishment of this
singular sanctuary.

Much effect is produced by the

326

BOUTE 118.* — ^BAVENO TO VARALLO.

Sectn.

appropriate situation of some of the
subjects. The access to the place
where Christ is laid in the sepolchre
is by a vault, where little light is ad-
mitted; and as it is difficult on enter-
ing from the open day to distinguish
at first any object, the efifect is very
imposing.

Many of the figures are clothed in
real drapery, and some have real hair,
which appears very grotesque, yet
full of character and expression; many
of the heads are finely modelled. In
the subject of the Visitation the head
of a female is strikingly fine. The
executioners conducting to Calyary,
or otherwise employed in inflicting
suffering on Chnst, are, to increase
the disgust for their characters, mo-
delled with goitres appended to their
throats.

The Sacro Monte originated in
the piety of the blessed (ue, half
saint) Bernardino Caimo, or Coloto,
a noble Milanese, who obtained in
1486, from Pope Innocent VIIL, a
faculty to found this sanctuary. Only
3 or 4 chapels were built in the time
of the founder, but after two visits
paid to it by St. Carlo Borromeo in
1578 and 1584, the prestige of the
spot for sanctity soon increased so,
tnat princes and rich devotees con-
tributed to make it what it now is.
The pallet bedstead, upon which the
patron saint of Milan died, is pre-
served here as a holy relic for the
veneration of the faithfuL

The convent, where the priests
reside, in a beautiful situation,
commands views of Varallo and the
Yal Sesia below the town. At the
entrance to the Oratories, booths or
shops are established for the sale
of corone, i. e. beads, crucifixes, ma-
donnas, &c., which have acquired
sanctity by having touched the blessed
bed of the holy St. Carlo, or other
nurade-working relics.

Near Varallo are nickel - mines
worked by an English company.

The population of the Yal Sesia is
about 35,000 ; most of the men leave
the valley and find employment else-
where as masons, builders, &;c.

There is good trout-fishing in the
river.

The Fonte delta Chda, about 1 hr.'s
walk up the Val Mastalone, is a re-
markaole scene; the green river
hemmed in by vertical rocks 150 ft.
high, is spanned by a lofty bridge.
A good carriage-road goes to the vil-
lage of Ferrera. (See Rte. 123.)
Omnibus twice a day from Varallo
to Novara Stat

ROUTE 118.

BAVENO TO VARALLO, BT THE LAKE OF
OBTA, OK BY TAL STBONA — ^HONTE
HOTTEBONE.

18 m.

h. n.
Bavmo to Gravellona 1 23 1
Omegna .... l 0 > 4 hn.
Orta 1 65 J

The lake of Orta may be reached
from Baveno, either by ascending the
Motterone (Rte. Ill), and descending
from thence to Orta, a walk or ride of
6^ hrs., or by the carriage-road

8 m. to Omegna (^Irm, Poste), at the
N. end of the lake. From Omegna to
Orta there is a ffOodroad(7 m.) along
Uie £. shore of we lake. A boat with
one rower costs 2 fr. The route
by the Val Strbna is taken from
Omegna.

Monte Motterone. Asses (poor heasts)
are kept for the ascent. The mule-
path from Baveno up the Motterone,
passing through woods of ches-
nut-trees during the lower part of

PiecP- ^ Savoy, route 118. — ^monte motterone. orta.

327

the ascent, is carried over a neck

of the mountitin a long way below the

summit, which is reached hy a steep

climb up the glassy slope. At the b^e

of the ascent are several dairy-farms

or chilets (Ali>e delle Volpe), where

the traveller can obtain refreshment

in ihe shape of excellent cream,

milk, cheese, &c. It takes 2^ hrs.

to descend to Orta: in fact, it re-

qnires nearly 7 hrs. to take this walk

from Baveno to Orta and enjoy the

view.

The view from the summit of the
Monte Motterone (5100 ft.) is one of
the most extensive on the S. declivity
of the Alps. The Mont Blanc, the
Combin, and the Mont Cervm, are
hidden by the nearer hills of the Val
Sesia and by the Monte Bosa. The
Une of snowy peaks to rt of the latter,
embracing Cima de Jazi, Fletschhom,
Monte Leone, and Bortelhom, ap-
pears to great advantage. Farther
£. rise the peaks and glaciers that
lie on either side of the Bernar-
din and Splligen passes, and in the
farther distance the great mass of the
Bemina Alps. Almost at his feet the
traveller sees 5 lakes — the Maggiore,
the Lake of Orta, those of Monato,
Comabbio, and Yarese; and still far-
ther to the rt. the great plain of Lom-
bardy and of Piedmont, studded with
innumerable villages, with Milan in
the centre, whose cathedral is dis-
tinctly visible. The two great tribu-
taries of the Fo, the Sesia and the
Ticino, appear like silver ribbons
traversing the dark ground of the
plain, and the distant Apennines of
Parma and Modena close this un-
rivalled panorama to the S., whilst
the plain of Lombardy stretches afar
to the £. tUl it is lost in the horizon.

If the weather be unfavourable for
the view, the traveller may reach
Orta without passing over the sum-
mit, and spare more than an hour's
fralk.

On the descent you pass the
chnrches of Madonna di Luciago,
Chi^geno, and Miasino, beyond
which you strike the high road. The
Sacro Monte may be visited before
catering

Orta, {Inns : *Albergo San Giulio,
very good, comfortable and moderate;
— ^Leone d'Oro is also a good little
inn, beautifully situated at the water's
edge). This town is delightfully
placed on the borders of the lake, but
upon the side of a steep declivity, so
that the walks have the disadvantage
of being always up and down hill. The
facilities for shooting in the neigh-
bouring mountains and forests, and
for fishing, boating, and bathing in
the lake, offer inducements for a
short stay in this cool and delicious
retirement. The charming villa of
Count Natta has beautiful gardens
above the town.

The Monte SacrOf on the summit of a
lofty promontory projecting into the
lake, is a sanctuary, dedicated to Saint
Francis of Assisi, approached by 22
chapels or oratories, like those of Va-
rallo. Some are elegant in their archi-
tecture; and they contain, as at Ya-
rallo, groups in terra-cotta, of which
at least seven are good works of art.
The hill is laid out like a garden, a
character which peculiarly l^longs to
the mountain slopes which surround
this lake, and whence probably its
name is derived. The magnolia and
cactus are seen growing in the
open air. The views from the hill
of the sanctuary are of singular
beauty, comprising the lake, the proxi-
mate mountams covered with wood,
villages which speckle the shores of
the lake and the sides of the hills, and
the whole surmounted by the Alps.
Aug. 2 to 9 is a g^and fdte.

It was the plan of General Chasse-
loup to continue the great route of
the Simplon along the shores of
the lake of Orta ; but the difference
of level — Orta being 500 feet higher
than lake Maggiore — induced the
adoption of the line by Baveno. As
mentioned in Rte. 117, Orta is within
a moderate distance of the rly. stat.
at Arena, from whence Turin, Genoa,
or Milan are easily reached on the
same day.

The Isola di San Giulio is an object
of singular beauty in the lake; it lies
between Orta and Pella. The church
and village surmount a rock that

328

ROUTE 118. — PELLA. OMEGNA.

Sect. II.

rises out of the deep lake; the brifi^ht
buildings on it contrast with the blue
waters with a fairy-like effect. The
chiirchj chiefly modernized, but retain-
ing some old parts, was built on a
spot rendered sacred by the retreat
of San Giulio, in the 4th century ;
here his ashes are preserved in a
vault; and the verteora of a mon-
strous serpent (in reality bones of a
whale), said to have been destroyed
by the saint, is shown as a relic.

The church contains an old mosaic
pavement and frescoes by P. Tibaldi;
a side chapel rudely painted by an un-
known master, 1486; another entirely
by Gaudenzio Ferrari, the chief subject
the Virgin and Child enthroned, singu-
larly graceful, but injured; above, the
Martyrdom of St. Stephen ; on the
vaulted roof the 4 Doctors of the
Western Church, with the Evange-
listic symbols — interesting exammes
of the pure Lombard style; a curious
pulpit, and bas-reliefs of St. G. driving
out snakes from the island. Guilla,
the wife of Beranger 11., king of
Lombardy, took refuge on the island
in 962, and defended it resolutely
against Otho I., emperor of Ger-
many, who had invaded Italy and
deposed her husband. Otho re-
stored the island to the bishops of
Novara, who had long held it before
it was seized by Beranger.

Omnibus to Arona, by Buccione, to
Gozzano Stat., whence trains to No-
vara, in 1| hr.

Orta to Varallo — boat to Pella —
5 hrs.

At Fella, the village on the W.
shore near to the Isola Giulio, asses
may be hired for crossing the Colma
to Varallo, 4^ hrs. ; a ride of great
interest, from the beautiful sites and
views which it offers, which cannot be
too much recommended. A steep path
leads up the mountain side to Arola
amidst the richest vegetation; vines,
figs, gourds, and fruit-trees. The views
looking back upon the Lago d*Orta
are superb. Magnificent forest-trees
offer their shade, and the road in some
places passes amidst precipices of
granite in a state of decomposition ;
here many of the specimens sold at

Baveno are obtained. Above these
granitic masses the path continues
through scenes resembling the most
beautiful park scenery of England,
and then opens upon the Col de Colma,
a bushy common, where wide and
pleasing views are presented of the
lakes of Orta,Maggiore, and the plains
of Lombardy, an{ towards the Alps,
of Monte Bosa.

The descent on the other side is not
less beautiful. The Val Sesia is seen in
the deep distance, richly wooded and
studded with churches and villages;
the path leads down through pastoral
scenes, which sometimes recall the
most ^reeable recollections of home
to an English traveller; then changes
almost suddenly to the deep gloom of
a ravine, where there are quarries,
formerly worked for the bimdings of
Varallo, buried in a forest of enor-
mous walnut and chestnut trees.
Issuing from this wild spot, the tra-
veller shortly finds himself in the Val
Sesia at Bocco, about 1 mile from

VaralU). See Bte. 117.

A shorter road turns rt about 150
yards beyond the top of the Col — ^leav-
ing Bocco on the 1., and joins the old
road about ^ m. from Varallo.

[The route from Omegna to Varallo
by the Vol Strona involves a consider-
aole circuit, but the scenery, will
amply compensate the traveller for
his extra labour. The distance might
be accomplished in one day by an
active pedestrian, but it is a better
plan to sleep at Fobello, where there
is a good country inn.]

Omegna {Irm, tolerable), at the
N. end of lake of Orta, where the
stream from it is joined by the
Strona torrent as it issues from
the mountains. The Val Strona is a
narrow glen whose steep sides are
clothed with fine forest trees and a
beautiful and varied vegetation. A
rough paved path, in some parts rather
steep, ascent^ the vaUey, which winds
much, and at every turn presents new
pictures of exquisite beauty. After
passing the villages of Sttxma and
Fomo, the last in the valley is reached,

Campello, a charming object for the
painter, but not offering good quarters

ROUTE 119.

YARALLO TO ALAGNA. THB VAL SBSIA,

Fied^' ^ Savoy. route 119. — varallo to alagna.

to the tourist. The ascent of the
Col di Campelb commences immedi-
diately above the village, and presents
no difficulty. It is a pass of no great
height (about 6000 ft.?), over the
ridge which separates the Yal Strona

from the Yal Mastalone. The Monte

Bosa, whose 8 summits, rising like

turrets from the prodigious inacces-
sible wall which forms its eastern face,

are from 12 to 14 m. distant, presents

one of the grandest views to be seen

in the Alps.. A tolerably correct

view is given in Mr. King's ' Italian

Valleys. A steep descent leads to

the German village of Rimella in the

Yal Mastalone. Accommodation may

be had here, but it is better to push

onto

329

Fdbello, where there is a very good
country /nn, H. d'ltalie. The route
from thence to Yarallo is given in
Bte. 123.

[Another way from Omegna to
Yarallo, rather longer and more labo-
rious than the ordinary route by the
Col di Colma, but much shorter than
that by the Yal Strona, is by the
village of Quama, and from thence over
the Monte Maxzuccne to Camasco. This
mountain is a somewhat enlarged
edition of the Motterone, which nes
a few miles farther E. It lies nearer
to the Monte Bosa, but is not so
centrally placed in regard to the lakes.
By this route Omeena is about 6 hrs.
walk from Yarallo.]

YaraUa
Piode .
Mollla .
Riva .
Alagna .

Hn. Eng. m.

4
2
2

» 12
B 6
= 6

There is a good carriage-road as
far as Mollia. Mules may be had
at that village. A side-saddle may be
procured at Yarallo, but not farther
up the valley. Diligence twice daily
from Mollia to the Blwy.

The Yal Sesia offers scenes of less
rugeed grandeur than some of its la-
te^ vaflevs ; but in its course many
of fipreat beauty are passed, chiefly
rendered so by the fine wooding of the
slopes, the grand forms of the trees,
ana the sometimes tranquil, often fu-
rious course of the Sesia. The villages
of BcUmuccia and Scopa (a clean Inn,
kept by Giuseppe Topino) are passed,
and the wild Vol Sermenia, called also
Yal Hccola, opens on the rt.

At 8copeUo(^Inn : indifferent, charges
extortionate) there are many smelting
houses, where the copper ore, already
washed and crushed,is reduced. About
50 tons are raised annually at Alagna.
Chars can be obtained from Scopello
to Yarallo, 7^ fr. ; 2 hrs.

There is not much variation in the
scenery, though the whole is pleasing.
The route passes Fiode (no /n»),
CampertognOf and

Mollia (a clean little Inn, Alb. Yal-
sessiano) to

Miva (Inn : Le Pietre Gemellc, small
but fair), the chief of the high villages
in the valley; picturesque from a
distance, but poor and comfortless.
Within the district known as the
Yal Sesia there are reckoned 2
bourgs and 30 villages, evidence of a
thicUy populated country in the val-
leys of the Alps. Biva is situated at
the confluence of the torrents of the
Dobbia and the Sesia.

330

ROUTE 121. — ^VOQOGNA TO MACUaNAGA^

Sect n.

The church of Riva will surprise the
traveller bj its structure, its excessive
decoration, and the real talent with
which it is painted within and without,
chiefly by one of the numerous paint-
ers whom the Val Sesia hasproduced
— Tanzio, or Antonio d'Enrico, a
native of Alagna. The external paint-
ings have a remarkable fresnness,
though thej have existed more than
200 years, exposed to the weather in
this high valley.

The view of Monte Bosa from Biva
is very sublime ; its enormous masses,
clothed in glaciers, close the head of
the Val Sesia, and offer a scene of
extraordinary grandeur.

About hair a league above it is

Alagna^ a poor place, but agreeably
situated. The Inn (Paolis, H. de
Monte Rosa, fair, and civil people) is
the best in the Val Sesia.

For passes and excursions from
Alagna see Rte. 124.

ROUTE 121.

VOGOGNA TO MACUGNAGA, BY THE
YAL ANZABCA.

Vogogna.
PanteQnmde
Vamoae . .

Hra.
3

EDg. m.
10

A good carriaee-road from Vogog-
na, on the Simplon road, by Pie di
Mulera, as far as Yanzone and Ceppo
MoreUL— 7^ hrs. from Vogogna to
Macngnaga — 6 hrs. returning.

Mules are to be had at Ponte
Qraqde.

It lis difficult to decide whether this

and the following routes should be
taken frt)m the Italian or the Swiss
side. The Val Anzasca is certainly
seen to greater advantage by the tra-
veller who ascends the valley with
Monte Rosa facing him all the way.
But the effect of the unrivalled view
from the summit of the Moro is en-
hanced by the abruptness with which
it is presented to him who arrives from
the Swiss side at the summit, and the
views in descending the Moro to-
wards the Val Anzasca are finer than
on the side of Saas. In either case,
the only way to do justice to the un-
equalled attractions of this valley is
to make a halt of one or more days.
It is decidedly more practicable for
ladies to cross the Moro frt>m Saas
than from Macugnaga, as in the first
case they may ride very nearly to the
top of the pass.

The Val Anzasca leads directly np
to Monte Rosa; it combines all that is
most lovely in Italian, with all that is
most g^rand in Swiss sceneiy. It is a
Chamouny, of which the sides are
covered with vines, figs, chesnuts, and
walnuts, with the sky of Italy above,
and the architecture of Italy around
you. It is easily accessible by those
not equal to hajd mountain expedi-
tions, and the Itms are greatly im-
proved.

Travellers descending the Simplon
road from Domo d'Ossola to Val An-
zasca turn out of it i m. S. of PaUan-
zeno, whence a road runs direct to Pie
de Mulera. Those going N. from
Baveno, cross the Tosa 1 m. K. of
Vogogna by a bridge just above the
influx of the Anza.

Vogogna (Rte. Ill) is situated on the
Simplon-road, 8^Eng. m. below Domo
d'Ossola, at the -confluence of the tor-
rent of the Anza with the Tosa.
Pedestrians may cross the Tosa by a
ferry to Pie de Mulera from Vogogpui.

PU de Mulera (/nn : Croce Rossa)^
the first village in the Val Anamsca.

Here tives the receiver of the gpold
and other mines situated near the
head of the valley.

Pied^' ET£. 121. — VAL ANZASCA. PONTE GRANDE. PESTARENA. 331

The road ascends, and traverses |
two short tunnels in the rock. It
is carried high up along the vine-clad
slopes, and commands a noble view
dovniward over the Val d'Ossola and
upwards towards Monte Bosa which
comes into sight soon after entering
the valley, and which gives an in-
describable finish to the distance,
while the rich valley, sending out
wooded hiUs from either side, forms
a magnificent foreground. The un-
rivalled prospect IS seen to great
advantage just before reaching

Castiglione (Inn : Au Bameau). The
road leaves rt. Calasca (Inn tolerable),
near which there is apretty waterfall
bursting out of the v al Bianca, then
descencu to the Ansa, and runs some
distance along its banks.

Ponte Grande ^Albergo al Ponte
Grande, large, witk a fine view; clean,
comfortable, and reasonable. This is
the chief place in the Val Anzasca, and
is the best position for a halt of a few
days; muies may be hired here only.
It is a considerable village with a post-
office, in a beautiful position at the
junction of the Val Olloccia with the
Anza, receives its name from a bridge
of a single arch across the Anza.

Vanzone, (Inms: H. des Chasseurs,
kept by Albasini, has only one de-
cent bedroom and one common room.)
The 2 Churches^ one opening out of
the other, are worth visiting. See the
view from the terrace in front of the
chapel, a little above the town. Here,
and elsewhere in Val Anzasca, the
neat dress of the women, the general
cleuiliness of the people, their cheer-
fulness and indepenaence, and the
rareness of goitre, will be remarked
with pleasure, as contrasting with
other parts of Piedmont. There are
few spots in the Alps better deserving
a halt of some days than this part of

the Val Anzasca.

At the small village of Gruppo, dbs.

a remarkably fine /tm^-tree.

Ceppo MorelU, (Inn : H. de Alpes,

ilioiigh small, can famish a tolerable

bed or luncheon.) dere is aremarkable

bridge^ very steep, springing on one
side from a boulder stone. A little
way above this is one of the finest
views in the valley; the vast height
of Monte Bosa may be fiilly appre-
ciated from hence, as it towers up-
wards into the sky. The women m
the upper part of the valley carry
burthens like men, and adopt lower
garments usually considered peculiar
to male attire.

[At Prequartero a path branches
oflF (rt.) into the Saas-Thal by Prebe-
none, nearer than that by the Moro,
but without its fine views of Monte
Bosa. The guides take it as a short
cut in returning.!

A spur descending from the Monte
della Caccia, called the Morgen, here
divides the Yal Anzasca from the
Val Macugnaga or Pestarena. The
distinction is further marked by the
languages spoken by the people;
above this German prevails, below it
Italian. This vast mass of mountain
nearly closing up the valley, is cleft
by a deep and savage gorge for the
Anza to escape.

At CampioUj where the river issues
out of the gorge, it is crossed to the
rt bank, and the path is carried in a
very steep ascent over this rocky bar-
rier: it next descends rapidly and
returns to the L bank by the Ponte
del Valt. It is proposed to carry the
char-road up to

Pestarena (Inn: Alb. dei Minieri,
tolerable, rough accommodation, but
civil people, and moderate), a miser-
able village, whose inhabitants earn
their liveuhood in the mines of gold,
silver, and copper. The gold occurs in
very small quantities, combined with
(pyrites) sulphuretofiron. The ore is
pounded and ground, and the metal is
obtained from it by amalgamation in
the proportion of 6 grammes, or at the
best 10, of gold to 100 kilogrammes of
ore. The annualproduce is said to be
about 2700 oz. There are not many
places in Piedmont where gold is
found. Brockedon, in consequence,
has coi^jectured that this valley was
the seat of the lQtymi;li mentioned by

332

ROUTE 121. — ^MACUGNAGA. MONTE ROSA.

Sect. II.

Pliny, and traces their name in that
of die TiUage» Pie and Cima de
iftJ-era.

The road ascends steeplj^, passing
the adits of many mines ; it is crossed
by numerous mountain - torrents,
which cut it up, or cover it with stony
rubbish, renaering the ascent toil-
some.

In ascending the yalley 35 min.
above Pestarena, the traveller comes
on the very magnificent view of Monte
Rosa, at a village called Bourge^ or

Borea (no good inn here) about
2 m. below Macu^naea. Qame —
chamois, marmot, black-cock, and
ptarmigan — abound in the valley.

At Borca and above it German is
the language of the people.

The path over the Col de Turlo to
Alagna and the Val Sesia (Rte. 124)
diverges here 1.

The commune which bears the
name of Macugnaga consists of six dif-
ferent hamlets, Pestarena, Borgo, in
der Stapf, zum Strich, auf der Rive,
and Zertannen. Borca is 1^ m., a ^
hr.'s walk from Pestarena, and as far
from the rest, which lie only a few
minutes' walk apart from one another.

Macugnaga (Zum Strich). {Inns:
Hotel du Mont Moro, fiur mountain
quarters, clean, and civil people;
cuisine good ; kept by Gaspard Del-
monte. — Osteria di Monte Rosa, by
Franz Lochmatter ; good sleeping ac-
commodation, kindly people. Mules
are not to be had here, but must
be ordered from Ponte Grande.) —
This place cannot be too strongly
recommended for a sojourn of seve-
ral days, in order to enjoy the ex-
quisite scenery around. This vil-
lage, 4369 ft above the sea, has a
small ancient Church, with a lime-tree
close beside it, and stands in a grassy
plain or luxuriant meadow, studded
with hamlets, some of them almost
touching the glaciers. The best guide
here for difficult expeditions is Franz
Lochmatter, landlord of the Monte
Rosa inn. Gaspard and his man Bap-
tiste know the neighbourhood well;
and there are several other guides

competent to conduct a party to the
glacier or over the Monte Moro.

Above the village, the river Anza
issues out of a grand arch of ice in
the glacier of Monte Rosa.

Excursions from Macugnaga, — The
great object of a visit to Macug-<
naga is the view of Moiite Rosa,
which is not surpassed, if it can
be equalled, by any scene in the
Alps or elsewhere in the world.
The excursions usually followed by
the local guides are not the best that
could be chosen, and the traveller is
recommended to adopt the following,
as affording the best fSEusilities for en-
joying the magnificent scenery of the
head of the vaJley. A good guide is
wanted, and he vnll know the route
when he is told the general direction
in which the excursion is to be made.
It can only be performed on foot, but
is not particularly fatiguing ; it will
occupy about 8 or 9 hrs.

First. — Ascend the meadows of the
valley above Macugnaga, and then,
after crossing the Anza, mount the
steep wooded hill called the Belvedere,
agamst which the great glacier de-
scending from Monte Rosa divides into
two ice-streams. This is one of the
finest points of view ; and those who
are not inclined to make the whole
tour may return frt)m hence to Ma-
cugnaga. I4tdies can ascend to this
point part of the way on mules in
2 hrs. ; Gaspard will even convey
them in a chaise-a-porteur. '

Second, — Cross the north arm of the
glacier to the chalets of Jazi, a passage
attended with no danger and very litue
difficulty, although the edees of the ice
are much encumbered wiUi moraines.
From thence walk up the valley to the
chalets of Filar, situated at the foot of
the northemmostpeak of Monte Rosa,
called the Nord End, and just below
the Old Weiss Thor Pass,

Third, — Ascend the steep moraine,
enter upon the great glacier, and pro-
ceed for some distance towards the
head of the valley. This is difficult,
the ice being considerably crevassed«
but with a guide accustomed to
glaciers there is no danger. The ere-

Pied?- ^ Senoy.

BOOTE 121. MONTE ROSA.

masses dimiaish after some distance |
has been irarersed, and the glacier '
bMooies more even. The traveller
maj pursue it as far as his inclination
leads him, bat a convenient goal is a
sinj;Qlar waterfall, where a consider-
able stream precipitates itself into a
great chasm m tlie ice, with a coaring
whith may be heard at some dis-
tance. The vieiT &om this spot is
exceeding!; striking, the observer be-
ing in the midst of the arena of a vast
amphitheatre, nhose snovr-clad walls
are formed of some of the highest
monntains in Enrope. Commencing
on the east, are seen the Fizzo Bianco,
and Cima del Piiio, from which a
snow-sheeted ridge leads to the Kreat
central group of Monte Bom, y/Yiaie
T^^ecipitons sides descend immediately

down some 7000 or 8000 ftet in one
almost mibroken slope to the very
edge of the glacier on which the tra-
veller stands. Avalanches of great
magnitude ere ot^en seen (o fall on
this slope, accompanied with a noise
like thunder. From the summits at
Moale Bosa another ridge extends
northwards to the Cima di Jaii, and
then on, bending eastwards to the pass
of Monte Moro, which is well seen.

Foarth. — Leave the glacier on its
eastern edge, and descend the steep
and high moraine to the chalets M
Pedriqlo, near which may be seen
some enormous fragments of rock that
have probablj fallen from the Pizzo
Bianco immediately above ; one of
these is 500 feet in circninference, and
aboQt 120 feet high ; they are pro-

334

ROUTE 122.— PASS OP MONTE MORO.

Sect. II.

bably tKe largest blocks detached in
this way that can be found in the
Alps.

Fifth, — From Pedriolo a return
tracK leads along the rocks on the
south side of the ralley, often at a
gpreat height, and commanding fine
scenery ; and a steep and intricate
descent brings the traveller back to
Macugnaga.

The whole of this excursion abounds
with the most magnificent views, pre-
senting the most wonderful amphi-
theatre in every direction to the eye.
X It is a finer scene than any of the
views of Mont Blanc, as no similar
advantage of position for the spec-
tator can be there obtained.

A few words on the topography of
Monte Bosa may not be out of place
here. It is by no means a smgle
summit, but a knot or union of two
ridges or chains crossing each other
at right ane^les, E. and W., and N.
and S.; so that its g^und-pUn may
be said to resemble a -|-. The N.E.
angle forms the head of the Yal
Anzasca, and encloses the glacier of
Macugnaga, as the N.W. does that of
Zermatt: the S.E. is the head of the
Val Sesia, and tiie S.W. under the
Lyskamm is the cradle of the glacier
of the Lys, and head of the valley of
Gressoney.

The four principal smnmits are
ranged along the north ray of the
cross, and are all visible from Ma-
cugnaga. Beginning at the left hand,
or south end, the first is the Signal
Kuppe ; the next, a snowy pinnacle,
the ^tjonstein Spitze ; the third, a tre-
mendous rocky tooth, the Hlichste
Spitze^ or highest point, being 15,223
English feet above the sea ; and the
fourth, or most northerly, the Nord
end. The difference in height of
these four summits is little more than
200 feet, from the highest to the
lowest See also Bte. 127.

The pass from Macugnaga to Zer-
matt, rormerly known as the Weias
Thor^ lay between the Cima de Jazi
and the Kord End of Monte Rosa. It
was occasionally passed by some of

the bolder cragsmen among the na-
tives at either side, but was never a
frequented pass. It is well known
that precipitous rocks often look more
formidable than they really are; but
even the most practised mountaineer,
after looking at the prodigious height
and steepness of the rocky range which
overhangs the Macugnaga Glacier,
might hesitate before attempting to
sc^e it For many years past the
guides at Zermatt and Macugnaga
have asserted that the old pass is no
longer practicable, owing to the accu-
mulation of ice over the edge of the
precipice, yet it was certiunly tra-
versed by M. Adolphe Schlagintweit
in 1851, and by English travellers in
1852 or 1853, and the same or a pa-
rallel pass by Prof. Tvndall, and by
others more lately. The New Weiss
Thor Pass is described in Bte. 127.

ROUTE 122.

MACUGNAGA TO VISP — MONTE
MOBO — 8AAJ3.

Hrs.
Macognaga.

Summit of Moro Pass ... 4

Mattmarksee 2

Saas a#

Stalden 3f

Vlsp li

The pass of the Moro is the least
difficult over the great chain between
the Great St Bernard and the Sim*
plon: still it is not practicable for
horses, though there are traces of an
old paved horse-road, by which the
mail was ca^ed to Milan before
the Simplon was opened. In the 10th
centy. the Moors guarded the passes

Pied^' 4r Savoy. route 122. — macugnaga to visp.

335

of the Penniiie chain, by a convention
with Count Hago of Provence, and
levied black-mail on their own ac-
count. The 3 great passes in those
days were the St. Bernard, the Monte
Moro, and the Engadine. Of the
former we have no other local memory
besides Mt. Mort (Maure); but in
the two others we have several — for
instance, the name Mt, Moro itself;
Calasca (Kal'ah, " a castle " — ^viz. the
alcalas and calatas in Spain and
Sicily) ; the hamlet Morghen ; Almagel
(Ai-mahal, "the station"); Matmark
(formerly Mat mar, "the Moor's
meadow ") j Eyen (Ain, ** a fountain ") ;
Distel Alp (?); Alalein (A1& Vain,
**over the source*' — a very graphic
name for its position in reference to
the ice cataract and the Visp torrent;
Almagel (?); Mischahel pronounced
Uke "Mi-gebel," Mont Gibello); BaU
frin, "the peak with 2 sources." The
ascent on the S. side is too fatiguing
for most ladies; but they may take
a chaise h porteur at Macugnaga.
Five porters are required.

The ascent is very abrupt, and the
traveller rises rapidly above the little
plain and village of Macugnaga.
The path Hes at first through a
strag^ing forest, but the Alps or
pasturages are soon attained, and the
scene thence presented is most mag-
nificent— all the masses of Monte
Kosa are open to the view, from its
peaks, still thousands of feet above
you, to the basin of Macugnaga, now
thousands of feet below. Such a scene
cannot be conceived, and once seen
can never be forgotten. From the
high pasturages the path traverses a
stony and barren slope to the snow
which it is necessary to cross. On
the summit, amidst a heap of stones,
a cross is placed, and the traveller
looks down on the other side of the
mountain towards the Yalais, and
into a scene of sterility which has no
relie£

It is well worth while to ascend a
point ^ of the summit of the pass,
called the Joderhom. The view of
Monte Bosa is not finer, for, in
truth, that cannot be surpassed, but
^e eye is enabled to cbntjrast it with

the distant view over the plain of N,
Italy and the southern ranges of the
Alps. Without going so far, you
may extend the range by mounting
the rocks behind the wooden cross,
from whence you gain the view of
Monte Kosa on one hand, and of the
whole extent of the Saas valley on
the other. •

The summit of the pass of the
Monte Moro is 9640 English feet
(^Forbes) above the sea. The de-
scent to Saas is singularly easy and
pleasant. There is a steep bed of
snow crossed at first, but afterwards
a gentle fall leads down the whole
way to Visp. On the L rises the
Saasgrat, a lofty chain of snowy
peaks, separating the valley of Saas
from that of Zermatt. The path soon
reaches the ancient paved road which
has been cut out of the face of the pre-
cipices, and overhangs a deep hollow
into which the glaciers which stream
down from the surroimding peaks
seem to be poured. The spot is one
of the most desolate in the Alps. At
length the paved road is left, and no
vestige can be traced of it : it has been
destroyed by the masses which have
fallen from the precipices above.

The path now winds down the vast
talus formed by these repeated falls of
rocks, to reach the scanty herbage of
the highest pasturages. From below
it is impossible to trace any path, or
even in what direction the path lies,
by which the descent has been made.

The pass of the Moro, and another
across the glaciers on the rt. into
the Val Antrona, are mentioned in an
old record of the date of 1440 as
"fort vieux passages*' and great ex-
penses were incurred in 1724, and
again in 1790, in the endeavour to
restore them, in order to facilitate the
conveyance of salt and other articles
of commerce, but the new repairs
were soon destroyed by avalanches.

The debris of fallen mountains, and
the enormous glaciers which surround
the traveller, give a fearful impres-
sion of desolation.

The chdlets of Distel furnish milk,
cheese, and eggs, but they are deserted
early in the autumn.

336

ROUTE 122. — MOKTE MORO. SAAS.

Sect. IL

[From Distel a difficultpath crosses
tbe mountains into the Val Antrona,
a valley that debouches into the Val
d'Ossola.]

From Distel the path continues on
the rt. branch of the stream all the
way to, Saas. After quitting the
chalets, the path leads down to a
dreary dirty lake ^^ hr.) called the

Mattmarksee, formed by the melting
of the glaciers. An An was built
(1856) on this dreary spot; it is
cheerless and not cheap, out clean,
and kept by civil people. This is a
convenient stopping-place for those
approaching the Monte Moro from the
N. They are enabled to shorten the
journey to Macugnag^, and to reach
the top of the pass 3^ hrs. sooner, when
the unrivalled view of Monte Bosa
is less frequently obscured by mists.
Still more advantageous is this rest-
ing-place to the more adventurous
class of travellers who make it their
startine-point for the passage of the
Weiss Tnor or the Adler Pass, and
for the ascent of the Strahlhom. The
MlcUein glacier bounds the lake on the
N., in fact, dams the valley, and these
waters accumulate within it. The
view over it is grand; the colossal
pyramids of cleft ice rising sheer
against the sky. The stream of the
Visp issues out of an ice-grotto at
its extremity. In 1833 tlus outlet
closed up, so that it required to be
opened by blasting the ice. From the
lower end of the lake the view of the
adjoining portion of the range of the
Saas Grat presents a scene of savaee
sublimity. It is necessary to skirt the
dam of ice and descend below it — an
affair of no great difficulty; the cattle
are made to ascend and travese it to
reach their pasturages. From below,
this barrier of ice appears effectually
to close the valley.

From this barrier the path lies
down the valley, still sterile and filled
with rocks and stones : the rhododen-
dron, however, and a little brushwood,
give evidence of improved vegetation.

Zurmegem or Zurrmcran, From this
village a path crosses the mountains
on the £. side, and leads to Antrona.

AUmageU, Before reachingit,larches
and pines are passed, but they are
stunted from tneir great elevation.
Afiter crossing a little plain, a rugged
path leads down by a hamlet, and the
traveller passes under Mont Fee,
whose bright snows, rising above a
forest of pines, give a singularly beau-
tiful appearance to the mountain.

Saas, or Im Grund, the principd
conmiune of the valley. Inns: JS.
du Mont Moro, clean, but cuisine de-
fective; H. du Mont Bosa.

Saas is a good resting-place, and is
now much frequented by tourists. The
parish priest, Herr Imseng, has ac-
quired an ahnost European reputa-
tion for his skill in difficult passes,
his adventurous spirit, his incredible
powers of endurance at a somewhat
advanced age, and his readiness to
assist travellers. He has usually lived
in the H. du Mont Bosa. Franz An-
denmatten, Moritz Zurbrucken, and
Joseph Yenetz are eood guides.

In approaching the Moro from the
side of Saas it is possible to ride
aS^ far as Telliboden, ^ hour above
the Distel ch41ets; but, although the
accommodation is better at Saas, those
who wish to secure the view from the
summit wiU prefer to sleep at the
Mattmark See, only 2 hrs. from the
top. 5^ hrs. are required from Saas.

Saas stands in a basin surrounded
by an amphitheatre of mountains,
which are not seen from the village,
lower ranges intercepting the view.
The plain of Saas is oeautiful amidst
the wild scenery which surrounds it:
it is nearly 1 m. long, and its verdant
meadows are refreshing to look upon
after the sterility of the upper vaUe/
and the pass of the Moro.

A very interesting excursion of a few
hours, which no one should omit, maj
be made irom Saas to the vaU^ aani
hamlet of Fee, lyine in a short lateral
valley, surrounded by lofty peaks. The
head of the valley consists of an am-
phitheatre of glaciers, somewhat re-
sembling the cSrques of the Pyrenees,
but on a grander scale. The principal
peaks are — to the S. the AlicJemhom^
ascended by Mr. Ames in 1856; then

Pie(^' ^ Savoy, route 122.— macugnaga to visp.

337

the Alphvbel ; and, on the W. side, the
two MischabeUiomer, the Tdschhom, and
the J>om. The height of the latter is
14,935 ft, or 900 & higher than the
Finster-Aarhom ; it is the highest
mountain in Switzerland proper. It
was first ascended in 1858 by the
Key. LL Davies. In the midst of the
glaciers is a singular green spot, al-
most an island in the sea of ice, called
the GUtscher Alp, 2 hrs. from Saas,
which is used as a pasture in summer,
when it is a perfect garden of wild
flowers. It may usually be reached
without crossing the glacier, but the
path passes through a gorge between
the 2hranches of the glacier with al-
mostoTerhangingmasses of ice on either
hand, not more than 30 or 40 feet
apart, and it should not be attempted
without a good guide, blocks of ice
freqaently brealung off and falling
across the path. From the head of
the yaUey is a fine yiew, and the Fee
glacier has retreated so as to leaye
a safe path. Mules can reach the
foot of the pass.

There are two exceedingly difficult
XNisses — ^the Adler Joch, or Col Im-
seng, and the Allelein Pass, from Saas
to Zermatt (Rte. 127).

East of Saas, the main chain, com-
prehending the Fletschom and Weiss-
mt€s,both exceeding 13,000 ft. in height,
abounds in interest. One route 2^ of
the Fletschom descends midway be-
tween the hospice and yillage of Sim-
plon: it must command magnificent
views of the Bernese Alps. The
Fletachom itself was ascended in 1856
by the Cure and a party of English.
Thsste is another pass up the .^ma-
gell yidley oyer the S. flank of the
Weissmies (ascended in 1859 by Mr.
Hinchliff), descending by Zwischber-
gen to Gondo: the descent, as seen
&om the Simplon road, appears to be
yery steep and very grand; probably
the Col IS a difficult one. A third
pass leads to the Val d'Antrona, be-
£>wX>omo d'OsSola, up the Furgge-thal^
a desolate and not picturesque valley
high, up in the mountain-side, above
ASna^ell: the passage of the Furgse

t lacier ofiers no difficulty, and the
ascent to Piedmont is free from icei

but very ste^. There used to be a
mule-road, oi which portions still re-
main. North of the Col, and perhaps
1000 ft higher, there is a point called
the Latelhom, which juts out like a
belvedere, the main chain falling back
right and left, and commands a most
superb view over the entire range
of the Alps from Monte Kosa to
the Tyrol, with the subordinate
ranges of Piedmont, Tessin, and Lom-
bardy. This point is new ; it is pro-
bably not above 10,000 ft., but easy
of access, and commands a splendid
view. Horses can go within 1^ hr.,
or less, of the top; and the remamder
of the ascent, except just the horn
itself for some 200 ft., is easy. There
are beds of snow, but no ice to cross.
By a tolerable walker the excursion
from Saas and back may be made in
10 hrs., allowing 1 hr. on the top, and
i hr. for refresmnent. A high point
at the head of the Ofenthal, 3 hrs.
from the Inn at the Mattmarksee, is
not difficult of access, and affords a
glorious view I

From Saas, by Stalden to Visp, 5^
hrs., is a good bridle-path.

The scenery is often extremely
beautifuL

Below Saas the valley contracts
and forms a defile, which enlarges
into a little mountain-enclosed plain
by the village of BcUen, at the foot of
the sharp-pointed snow-peak of the
Balfrm, first ascended by Mr. and Mrs.
S. Watson. The path here crosses and
recrosses the Vispach. Near H. Hu-
teck the valley closes into a narrow
gorge, and the path is forced to mount
high above the torrent. Many wooden
crosses, the memorials of accidents
from snow and avalanches, are passed.
In 3} hrs. from Saas the vaUey sud-
denly enlarges at the junction of the
Saaser Vispach with the main stream
of the Gomer Vispach descending the
Matter Thai from Zermatt. The path
crosses the Kinnbriicke, a single arch
150 ft. above the stream, and reaches

Stalden, about 5 m. above Visp, (See
Rtes. 59 and 127.)

338

ROUTE 123. — ^VAKALLO TO YAL ANZA8CA. Sect. IL

ROUTE 123.

VARAIXO TO THE YAL ANZASCA, BT
THE YAL HABTALONE, OR BT YAL
8EBMENTA.

There are 4 routes by which tra-
Yellers may reach the Val Anzasca
fVom Varallo, all much to be preferred
to the pass of the Turlo. (Rte. 1 24.)

a. The easiest and perhaps the most
beautiful route is through the Val
Mastakne, and oYer the Barranca Pass.
There is a good char-road fh>m Va-
rallo to Ferrera and Fobello. From
thence Ponte Grande is reached in 8
or 10 hrs. steady walking. Mules can
rarelY be taken over the pass, but it
is adyisable to wsdk the descent on
either side.

For the first league from Varallo
the Yalley gradually contracts till the
road reaches a remarkable gorge where
the river, hemmed in by vertical rocks
150 ft. high, is spanned by a stone
arch call^ the Ponte della Quia,
too narrow for wheel-yehides. A
bridffe has been constructed' for the
carnage-road, which was completed
as far as Ferrera in 1858, and is
now open to Fobello. The scenery
for the entire distance is of the most
exquisite character, the vegetation
being even richer than in the Val
Sesia. At about 10 m. from Varallo
the valley divides, the rt. hand branch
leading to Rimella (Rte. 118), the 1.
hand to

Fobello, where there is a very good
country Inn, H.d'Italie (Uchetta's), the
best in the valley. Landlord was cook
in one of the great Turin hotels. This
valley is the cradle of cooks, who
migrate hence all over Europe. The
upper end of the Val Mastalone is
open and rather bare of foliage, and the
ascent to the Barranca Pass is steep,

and not free from difficulty. The
summit, (5740 ft.) where there is a
small oratory, reached in 4 hrs. from
Fobello, has some open undulatine
ground where the track from the Cd
d'Egua joins that leading from Fo-
bello. This view is not improved by
ascending the tempting hiU 1. of the
Col. The descent towards the Val
Olloccia is abrupt, and in parts steep,
and the views over the Val Anzasca are
magnificent A mountaineer will have
no great difficulty in finding his way,
but may probably miss the path and
lose time if without a guide. If a mule
be taken it is essent^ to have some
one well acquainted with the ground
on both sides. The Val Olloccia, a
tributary of the Val Anzasca, is one of
the most richly-wooded of the southern
valleys of the Alps, but for some years
the axe has been at work, and much
magnificent timber has already been
felled.

Ponte Grande is reached in 3 hrs.
from the summit. Here the traveller
mi^ now find tolerable quarters (Alb.
al Ponte Grande (Rte. 121).

The village of Banio is on a height,
15 min. walk firom Ponte Grande.

h. There is another pass from the
Val Mastalone by the eastern or Ri-
mella branch of the valley. It is
rather more direct, but is said to be
less easy. (See Rte. 118.)

c. Parallel to the Val Mastalone is
another equally beautiful, called the
Val Sermenta, or Vol Piccola, to dis-
tinguish it from the Val Grande, or
main valley of the Sesia. This joins
the Sesia at the hamlet of Balmuccia.
about 6 m, from Varallo. The lower
part of the Val Sermenta is very
narrow and tortuous : a char-road is in
progress as far as Rimaseo. Passing
the villages Bucoiaietto an4 Feroento^ for
which the contracted valley scarcely
afibrds space, in 2^ hrs. from Bal-
muccia the mule-path reaches

Snnaeooj where there is a rude bat
tolerable Inn, with bath, kept by Yery
civil people. This, the chief village in
the valley, is situated Just at the fork

PiecP' d Savoy, route 124. — ^macugnaga to oressonay.

339

where it divides into 2 branches ; that
on the 1. hand leading through grand
scenerj to the German village of
Rima, while the rt. hand branch leads
to the Val Anzasca by^Oarcoforo.

[From Rima there are two, if not
three, passes leading to Alagna, and
there is another track mounting steeply
to the westward, by which the Turlo
pass is gained close to the summit of
the ridge. (See Rte. 124.)]

Above Rimasco the valley becomes
more wild and open, and in 1^ hr. the
track reaches the last village —

OatcoforOf where there is a poor Inn,
not very bad. From hence the tra-
veller has the choice of 2 routes to
the Yai Anzasca, but even if bound
for the head of that valley he will do
better to take the Col d'Egua, leading
to Ponte Grande, so as to enjoy the
glorious walk from that village to
Macugnaga.

The summit of the Col d^Egua (7060
ft) may be reached in 2 hrs. from
Oarcoforo by a rather steep and con-
tinuous ascent. The summit, when
clear, is said to command a very grand
view, similar in character to that from
the Ool di Gampello (Rte. 118). From
the top there is a rapid descent over
rough ground to the undulating ridge
which forms the summit of the Bar-
ranca Pass above described. The
track, which is ill-marked, joins that
from Rimella close to the small oratory.
The descent to Banio and Ponte Grande
has been already described. Time from j
Garcoforo to Ponte Grande, 5^ to
6hr8.

d. Travellers pressed for time, and |
wishing to reach Macugnaga in one ,
long day from* Varallo, may take a j
pass, which diverges from that last ,
described, at the village of Oarcoforo,
about the same height, but more
interesting than that of the Turlo
(see Rte. 124). The ascent from
Oarcoforo is very steep ; in ascending it
takes more than 3 hrs. (in descending
2 hrs.) to reach the summit of the
Bocchetta di Qarcoftyro. This commands
a magnificent view of Monte Rosa and
the Saas Grat. In descending there is

a faintly marked track along a steep
slope until an abandoned mine (gold ?)
is reached. Below this the path
descends into the short

Val Q\wrazzola^ a branch of, or
rather a recess in, the Fa/ Qaaro^zay
down which descends the path from
the Turlo. The guides usually de-
scend to Borca, but this is unneces-
sary, and there is a shorter track to
Macugnaga by the S. side of the Anza.
Time from Balmuccia, 10 hrs. steady
walking, exclusive of halts.

The trout-fishing is reported to be
very good in the Yals Sermenta and
Mastalone. In both the beauty is
greatly increased by the brilliant
aqua-marine green of the water and
the abundant chesnut woods.

ROUTE 124.

MACUGNAGA TO GRESSONAY, BY ^TH£
TURLO PASS — THB COL d'OLLEN —
COL DI VAL DOBBIA.

The most direct, but not the most
interesting, route for travellers making
the tour of Monte Rosa is to proceed
from Macugnaga to Alagna by the
Turlo Pass. It presents no difficulty
to the practised pedestrian, but is
long and fatiguing. The regular track
commences at Borca, but some time is
saved by crossing the Anza below
Macugnaga and taking a paUi which

340

ROUTE 124. — ^TURLO PASS.

Sect II.

leads into the Val Quarazza above its
junction with the Anza. The lower
part of the Vai Quarazza is pleasing
and the ascent gentle. After ascend-
ing for about 1^ hr. the traveller
finds himself at ^e base of a steep
rockj range which encircles the head
of the valley. The slopes, which occur
in the intervals between the out-
cropping walls of bare rock, are
covered with rhododendron and other
stunted Alpine shrubs. It is most
prudent to keep to the track, which
is ill-marked, but in descending on
this side the mountaineer will make
short work of these slopes, using due
caution to avoid a slip, which might be
dangerous. Towards the summit are
some rather long and steep slopes of
snow, tiresome enough to mount, but
easy in the descent. The actual
summit of the pass (9141 ft.) is
marked by a cross, and is a mere
sharp ridge of rock forming the pro-
longation of agreat spur which extends
from the Signal Kuppe between the
valleys of Anzasca and Sesia. A little
S.E. of the cross are some rocks which
command an extensive view towards
the Lago Maggiore and the mountains
beyond it, but the hieher summits of
Monte Rosa are not visible. It takes
4^ hrs. to reach the top of the pass
from Macugnaga. On the S.W. side
the track, when not covered with
snow, is better marked. It winds
round the N. side of a hollow filled
with snow, and continues for some
time nearly due S., in places over
scattered debris, where it is easily lost.
It then bears away to the westward
until it reaches a group of miserable-
looking ch&lets, beyond which is the
final* descent into the Val Sesia, which
is reached at a bridge over the Sesia,
nearly an hour^s walk above Alagna.
8 hrs. exclusive of stoppages should
be allowed, but an active mountaineer
might accomplish the distance in
7 hrs.

Alagna {Hotel: Monte Rosa, good
and clean), though in the immediate
neighbourhood of magnificent scenery,
does not command a view of any of
the peaks of MQnte Kosa. Unreason-

able demands are made here both for
guides and mules, which ought to be
resisted.

A very interesting excursion may
be made from Alagna to the File A^
and the Val di Bours, or JBmbours, as
written by the Schlagintweits. For
the first nour the track is the same
as that to the Col di Turlo. It crosses
and recrosses the Sesia, passing, about
2 m. from Alagna, the abuidoned
gold-mine of Kries. Beyond this a
wayside oratory is passed close to the
bridge over the Sesia, near which com-
mences the ascent to the Turlo. The
path to the Pile Alp keeps to the rt.
bank of the Sesia, mounting a steep
staircase of rock on the slope of the
Staffelbergf which is the mountain that
shuts out from Alagna the view of
Monte Rosa. After passing a cluster
of poor ch&lets the traveller reaches in
1^ hr. from Alagna a point which
commands an admirable view of the
S.E. portion of Monte Rosa.

On the left is seen one of the peaks
(but not the highest point) of the
Vincent Pyramide, next, in the back-
ground, the Schwarzhom and Lad-
wigshohe, then the Parrots Spitze,
and lastly the grand mass of the Signal
Kuppe. The latter peak ( 14,964 ft in
height) was ascended in 1842 by M.
Gnifetti, the owe of Alagna, an ex-
cellent mountaineer, who is very
ready to give information and advice
to strangers visiting his native valley.
Those who desire a still nearer view
of these grand peaks will be well re-
warded if they push on from the Pile
Alp to the ridge N. of the Val di
Bours, about if hr. farther. At the
head of the Val di Bours is a very fine
waterfall fed by the snows of Monte
Rosa, and descending, from a great
height (600 ft. ?) In the same direc-
tion there is a Col — called Ool delle
Piscie — by which an active moun-
taineer might reach the Val des Lys,
either joining the path from the Col
d' OUen, near the Gabiet See, or de-
scending by the £. side of the Lys
Glacier. It is said to be also possiUe
to reach the summit of the Col d'Ollen
from the Val di Bours, so that a
traveller might leave Alagna in the

Pie<P* ^ Savoy,

ROUTE 124.— COL d'oLLEN.

341

morning, follow the track by the Pile
Alp to the Val di Boun, thence cross
to the Col d' Ollen, ascend the Gem-
stein, and reach Gressonay the same
day. These expeditions should be un-
dertaken only by well-trained moun-
taineers. Alagna is the meeting place
of many different routes. That from
Yarallo by the Val Sesia has been de-
scribed in Rte. 119. The traveller
bound for the Val Anzasca may best
take either of the two passes — the Cd
di Moud, or the Col di Rima — ^leading
to Bima in the W. branch of the Viu
Sermenta. The first-named is the
better of the two, and, though unfre-
quented, is described as a beautiful
and easy pass, reaching Rima in 4^
hrs.— 2^ to the top, 1} to descend. 2
hrs. farther is Rimasco (Rte. 12S).
The two most frequented passes from
the Val Sesia to the Val de Lys are
theCol d'011en,commencingat Alagna,
sod the Col di Val Dobbia, the path
to which turns from the Val Sesia at
Biva, 1^ m. below Alagna. The first
is the more interesting, and should
always be preferred in fine weather ;
the second is shorter and much easier,
being a good mule-path, but it is com-
paratively tame and unexciting.

a. The ascent to the Col d'Ollm
beeins immediately above the village,
and occupies 4 hrs. ; the last hour is very
steep, and in bad weather the path may
easily be lost. None but very good
moles should be taken over this pass,
as the track is difficult. It is 1000 ft
higher than Col de Val Dobbia, and
more than 1 hr. longer ; but is far pre-
Hsrable on account of its views. [On
peaching the Col (9553 ft.)the traveller
should ascend the peak of the Gemsteirif
half an hour's climb above the summit,
<m the N. side, from which there is a
magnificent view of desolation on the
side of the Alps and richness on the
side of Italy.] Nothing can be ima-
gined finer than the head of the Lvs-
thal. The Lys-gletscher, which ae-
soends low, is formed by the union of
two magnificent branches, which sweep
down from the Lys Kamm. Rock,
river, rich pasturages, forests, glaciers,
and mountains, are so admirably com-
binedl^as |to]tresentl[ a series of most

exquisite views, both in descending
and in passing along the bottom of
the valley. On the descent is passed a
lonely tarn, called the Gabiet See, near
which is a ch&let better than common
where milk may be procured. Near
the village chapel of San Giacomo, and
close by the road, there is a remark-
ably picturesque spot on the river,
which has hollowed itself a very deep
channel, across which has fallen a
mass of rock, forming a natural bridge,
which leads to the chapel and some
adjacent houses. A sharp descent of
2} hrs. leads to Trinitk in the Lysthal,
whence it is l|^ hr. to Gressonay ; or
if the traveller intends to cross the
Betta Furca (see Rte. 125) he may
take a track to the rt. and merely cross
the Val de Lys at St. Giacomo, at once
commencing the ascent of the second
Col, but it is a long and fatiguing
day^s walk to reach the head of the
Val d'Ayas from Alagna.

6. The route to the Col di Val
Dotbia starts from Riva (Route 119),
and ascends the narrow ravine of the
Dobbia, by a long and steep path, in
some places overhanging the torrent,
in others disputing with the river the
narrow course through which both
must struggle. After passing the
miserable hamlet of Grato, near to
which there is a fine waterfidl gushing
out to the black ravine, the abrupt
ascent to the Ool rises through a pine
forest, and thence over Alpine pas-
turages by a long and fetiguing path,
which offers no object of particular
interest to the traveller.

The distance from Riva to the CoL
which is 8250 ft. above the level of
the sea, requires 4 hrs. On the summit
there is an humble Hospice— 9k stone
house of 2 stories, affording acceptable
shelter during snow-storms to travel-
lers ; it is the successor probably of a
hovel which existed in Saussure's time.
It was built at the joint expense of the
commune of Riva and of an individual
of Gressonay, the canon Sottile. It is
inhabited throughout the year by 2
civil men who attend to travellers and
their wants. A view is obtained fh)m
the summit, extending from the im-
mediate vicinity of Mont Blanc to the

342

ROUTE 124,— GRESSOKAY.

Sectn.

Alps of the Val Tellina. The Monte
Rosa is concealed from the trayeller,
but in the couirse of his descent the
deep valley of the Lys offers views
rivalling any in the Great Chain.

The descent to Gressonay may be
easily made in 2 hrs.

Gressonay (St. Jean). (/n«« ; that of
*Delapierre is very good, well supplied
for so remote a situation, and the
landlord most attentive; a new Inn,
kept by M. Sebastian Lintz, is highly
spoken of; guides and mules.) Dela-
pierre and his son Ferdinand are
both good guides, and he provides
mules with side-saddles for ladies.
Travellers must not expect to find the
ordinary guides at this or other vil-
lages about Monte Rosa at all worthy
of comparison with the professional
guides of Chamouni or the Bernese
Oberland. The mules also are gene-
rally inferior animals.

Gressonay is properly the name of
the commune which includes all the
upper part of the Vol de Lys, or
Lysthal. There are many hamlets
scattered along the course of the stream
for a distance of about 8 m. The
principal one is that of S^t. Jean, where
alone good accommodation is to be
found. The beauty of the scenery, the
Interesting objects in the neighbour-
hood, and the comfortable quarters,
combine to make this the most de-
sirable stopping-place on the Italian
side of Monte £osa ; but for those who
desire a close acquuntance with the
great mountain, the distance of St.
Jean from the head of the valley (fully
3 hrs. walk to the foot of the glacier)
is a serious drawback. St. Jean is
4530 ft. above the sea.

In the communes at the heads of
the Piedmontese valleys of Monte
Rosa the German language is spoken ;
at Alagna in the Val Sesia, above
Pestarena in the Val Anzasca, and in
this which is the most considerable of
the German communes. ■ The manners
of these communities are as distinct as
their language from that of their
neighbours lower down the valleys,
with whom they hold little intercourse :
they encourage a pride of birth and
birUiplace which strongly keeps up

the separation. At Gressonay this is
perhaps more strongly exemplified than
in any other of the valleys. Here
their characters are distinguished for
honesty and industry, and few com-
munities have a higher moral tone.
Crime is almost unknown among them :
and if disputes arise, the syndic or
magistrate elected by themselves hears
the complaint, and effects an amicable
settlement. They possess many of
those comforts which' an Englishman
appreciates, and which are unknown
to the lower inhabitants of the valleys.
Their education and attainments are
of a higher order than is usually found
in such a elass, especially in such a
place. Many of their young men have
distinguished themselves by the abili-
ties which they have displayed when
they have gone abroad in the world.
They have become merchants and
bankers, and many from amoug them
have become eminent for learning and
science, and reflected honour od the
little community located in this Alpine
solitude. Among these is Herr Zum-
stein, better known in the Val Sesia as
M. de la Pierre, inspector of the
forests of the Val Sesia, who long
since explored the flanks and ascended
one of the summits of Monte Rosa,
and gave great assistance to Col. Von
Welden in his topography of Monte
Rosa.

Irrespective of the passes that lead
from Gressonav to the £. — already de-
scribed— and those leading westward,
described in Rte. 125, there are many
interesting excursions to be made, and
travellers do unwisely who merely
hurry through without seeing as much
of the neighbouring mountains as
weather and strength will permit.
The most interesting excursion in fine
weather is that to the Lys Glacier »
There is a good paved mule-path as
far as Noversch, where Herr Zumstein
resides. Beyond this (about 1^ hr.
from St. Jean) is the raiher large
hamlet of Gressonay la T^rinita. Next
is San Giacomo, from whence a path to
the Col d'Ollen ascends on the rt, and
that to the Betta Furca on the 1. (see
Rte. 126). The last hamlet is San
FietrOf and beyond it, at a spot called

PkcP- 4r Savoy, route 124. — ^ascent op the graues haupt. 343

Am Bett^ is a large house. belonging to
Baron Peccoz, a native of the yalley,
-who, after haying acquired a fortune
and title in Germany, has returned to
his birthplace, and there indulges in
the passion for chamois-hunting. He
has several ch&lets on the neighbour-
ing mountains, one of 'which is close
to the £. bank of the Lys Glacier,
and a house at St. Jean, where he
keeps a collection of trophies of the
chase, including some unusually fine
bouquetin's hefMS. The Lys Glacier
is more easily approached on the E.
than on the opposite side, where the
moraine is extremely high and steep.
It is well worth while to ascend by
the lateral moraine until the less
crevassed part is reached, and then to
advance over the glacier towards the
base of the Nase^ a conspicuous peak
or promontory of rock standing out in
the midst of the glacier, which falls
in magnificent ice-cascades at either
side of it. Practised mountaineers
may cross the glacier, and descend
the steep moraine on the W. side : not
less than 10 hrs. should be allowed
for the excursion. On the E. side of
the glacier, and below the Vincent
Pyramidei is the Hdhes lAcht, a rounded
prominence, where at one time a gold-
mine was worked at more than 10,800
ft. above the sea.

A hat was constructed near the
mine, which served Zumstein and
other explorers of Monte Rosa as a
sleeping-place. Another hut was sub-
sequently built about 600 ft. lower, on
the ridge descending from the Vincent
Fyramide, close to the summit of the
Col delle Piscie. The brothers Schla-
gintweit remained there for 14 days
in 1851 engaged in scientific observa-
tions. The height of this hut, called
Vincentshutte, is 10,383 ft.

The fin(nst panoramic view in the
neighbourhood of Gressonay is that
from the summit of the Graues Haupt,
or Ch-auhaupt, 11,040 En^. ft. in height.
Ita crags rising precipitously on the
W. side of the val de Lys are conspi-
cuous from Zermatt.

**• No one should, if possible, leave
Gressonav without ascendmg^ it, if the
weather be ftivonrable. It is a diffi-

cult excursion for ladies, at least to
the very top, though one was of our
party. The view from the summit is
a superb panorama, and may certainly
count amongst the finest in the Alps.
After ascending the Val de Lys for
35 min. a steep path by the side of a
waterfall on the 1. leads up to a
cluster of chlllets and some luxuriant
pasturages ; it is well to start early, so
as to get over this part before the sun
appears above the mountains on the
E. side of the valley. Thence the
ascent is more easy, over the side of
the hill, rich with rhododendrons and
mosses, till vegetation begins to cease,
and the path mounts by the side of a
mountain-stream till it reaches (in
3 hrs. from Gressonay) the Col de
Pmtay a wild and desolate depression
in the ridge, strewn with large rocks,
where, as well as at the summit, there
is a pyramid of stones, a '* homme de
pierre " as the guides call it. Here
the mule-path ends, and, if ladies are
not strong enough to mount ftirther,
they will be amply compensated by
the view from this point. The higher
part of the mountain itself intercepts
the view of the Monte Bosa chain, but
the whole range from Mont Combin
to the Grand Paradis in the range on
the S. of the Val d'Aosta is seen;
Mont Blanc rearing its hu^e amphi-
theatre of ice high above its neigh-
bours. Beyond this the way — not
path, for there is none — lies over loose
shingle and shale ; several large rocks
have to be either circumvented or
climbed, and the incline, just after
the Col, is very steep: afterwards it
lies over harder stones, the footing on
which is more secure ; 5 or 10 min.
before reaching the summit there is
a very stiff cbmb of 20 or 30 ft. of
steep rock, and in less than 2 hrs.
from the Col the top is reached, where
we remained an hour. A perfect
circle of mountains here reward the
trouble of the climb: the whole of
Monte Rosa with the majestic Matter-
horn appear quite close ; Mont Blanc,
farther- away to the W., easily proves
itself to be the * Monarch of Moun-
tains,' at least in height. The Pic de
Grivola, the Grand Paradis, and all the

344

IIOXJTB 124.— THE TftLCHENHORN.

Sect II.

ridge N. of Turin, are in the middle
distance; whilst the Bftaritime Alps
that bound the RiTiera from Nice to
Grenoa, with Monte Viso conspicuously
great on the one side, and the Tyro-
lean Alps with the huge Orteler Spitz
on the other, form a splendid back-
ground to this glorious panorama.

** The Col is a couTenient place, after
descendini^ from the actual summit,
for the mid-day d^eftner: provisions
however must be taken, as nothing
but very excellent milk can be ob-
tained at the high ch&lets."— -C. C. T.

The time, exclusiye of stoppages,

is::—

To Ascend.

Up the valley
Up to the Col
Up to the top

m.
36
30
55

To Dbscbvd.

Down to the Col . . . . 0 66

Down to the valley ... 1 66

ToOressonay 0 20

3 10

Those who do not feel confident of
their strengtli will do much better to
attempt some easier summit, rather
than stop short in the ascent of the
Grauhaupt at the Col di Pinta. Such
a point IS the Pointe de Combetta,
S. of the Col di Banzola (Rte. 125).
Another summit, less difficult than
the Grauhaupt, but more laborious
than the Combetta, is the Telchenhomy
whose top is seen exactly in the back-
ground of the valley from the bridge
of Gressonay. It is, in fact, a pro-
lonffation of the ridge of the Hohes
Licnt.

*' It is a walk of 2f hrs. to reach its
foot, passing the paths leading to the
Col d OUen on the rt., and Betta Furca
on the 1. A severe scramble of 2 hrs.
brought us to the summit, over short
prickly grass, affording no hold. The
near view of the Lyskamm and glacier
and Vincent Pyramide is very grand.
The Hoheslicht, which is the only in-
terveninff mountain, would probably
command still grander views, but we
had no time to ascend it. Between
the Grauhaupt and Betta Furca pass

there is a fine view of the Grivola
and the Mont Emilius. The height
of the Telchenhorn is apparently about
the same as the Col d'Ollen."

It would be quite possible to com-
bine the ascent of the Telchenhorn
with an excursion on the Lys Glacier
in one long day's walk.

From Gressonay it is a walk of
about 18 m. to descend the Val de
Lys, or Vailese as the Italian portion
of the valley is called, to St. Martin
in the Val d'Aosta, passing many vil-
lages and hamlets, of whidi the prin-
cipal are Gaby, Issime, Fontainemore,
and LSlianes, through wild and im-
posing rock scenery, combined with
the richest vegetation in a manner
characteristic of the Val d'Aosta and
its lateral valleys. About Trina the
valley is strewn with huge rolled
blocks or boulders. As you approach
the Ponte di Trinitk the scene be-
comes sterner, more shattered pre-
cipices and long shoots of d^ris and
detached rocks. Below Issime an
unbroken and beautiful wood of sweet
chestnut stretches across the valley.
The Vailese loses much in interest to
those who ascend it.

At St. Martin (Rte. 134) is a toler-
able Inn, La Rosa Rossa.

Pkif' i' Savoy. BTE. 125.— ^RtSSOKAV to CriAl-ILLOll.

845

ROUTE 125.

GRESSONAT TO CHATILLON, BY THE COL
DE RANZOLA, OR BY THE BETTA
PUfiCA.

The three valleys of Anzasca, Sesia,
and Lys, described in Rtes. 119, 121,
and 124, diverge from Monte Rosa
like the spokes of a ^heel from the
axle, and therefore the shortest pas-
sage from one to the other is that
nearest to the central mountain. The
two valleys which succeed the Val de
Lys to the westward — the valleys of
Challant and Tournanche — are nearly
parallel to it and to each other, and
. they all three open out into the Val
d'Aosta, which is the main depression
corresponding to the ridge of the
Pennine Alps. The ridge separating
the Val de Lys from the Val Challant
may be passed at many points, but the
two frequented passes are the Col de
Ranzola and the Betta Furca. The
former is by far the easier and more
interesting, and is besides considerably
the shorter route to Chatillon or Aosta.

a. To reach the Col de Ranzola it is
necessary to ascend the steep forest
paths and slopes of the mountain on
the side of the valley opposite to the
Col de Val Dobbia; it is a rather
fiitiguing mule-path the whole way
up to the summit of the ridge which
divides the valleys of the Lys and
Challant.

On emerging in the ascent from the
pine forest a. grand view of Monte
Rosa is presented^ with the beautiful
Vol de Lys lying far below the tra-
veller, with its quiet villages and fer*
tile pasturages. The Lys, like a silver
thread, may be traced up to its glaciers.
On either side of the valley the vast
monntains, belted with forests, offer,
at the depression of their ridges, the
paths by which the most frequent
intercourse takes place with the neigh-
bouring valleys. From a peak rising
a little above the pass, called Pointe de

Combetta, one of the finest panoramic
views of Monte Rosa and the Val
d' Aosta and the Val de Gressonay
may be obtained. This point can be
reached in 2j or 3 hrs. from Gres-
sonay.

At the top of the pass the view of
Monte Rosa is shut out, but in clear
weather the traveller is recompensed
by a fine distant view of Mont Blanc.
After passing the Col de Ranzola
(7136 ft.) the descent is gradual to the
little hamlet of St. Grat, then some-
what steep to Brussone. In the descent
the Vol Challant may be traced in its
course down to Verrex, where it joins
the Val d* Aosta, in which the Doire
may be distinctly seen, flashing across
like a streak of light, broken by the
dark mass of the Castle of Verrex^
which stands at the very junction of
the two valleys, while under the feet,
or not far off, is perched upon the
declivity the picturesque Castle of
Challant.

In 4 hrs. from Gressonay the tra-
veller reaches Brussone — Inns: H6tel
Royal, tolerable ; Lion d'Or— a beau-
tifully situated village. From hence
the Val Challant may be descended to
Verrex in the Val d* Aosta, about
3 hrs. walk, which will be found very
hot by the traveller descending from
the highland valleys. The scenery
is beautiful, but the inhabitants are
afflicted with goitre and cretinism to
a painful extent.

Above Brussone the valley changes
its character and its name, being there
called Val d*Ayas from the name of
the chief village.

The most direct and agreeable route
to Chiltillon and Aosta is by the Col
de Jon. To reach it the path, after
crossing some meadows beyond Brus-
sone, winds steeply up through a forest
of pines and larches, and then opens
upon one of the most beautiful pas-
turages in the Alps — the Col de Jon^
which is a fine greensward, broad and
luxuriant. This is not a pass over a
depression in a mountain range, such
as are common in the Alps, but merely
a short cut gained by crossing the
shoulder of a mountain, instead of
winding round its base. The Mont

346 ROUTE 126. — ^BETTA FURCA* 127.— VISt TO ZERHATT. Sect. It.

Zerbion is the soutbern extremity of
the range separating the Yal d'Ayas
from the Vai Toaruanche, and it is
OYer the side of this mountain that
the track lies.

On reaching the descent towards
the Val d*Aosta, near a little chapel
of SL Grat, this beaatiful valley is
seen in all its length, from Chfttillon
to the Mont Blanc ; not traced qnite to
the base of the latter, for its summit
only is seen on the rt. peering into
the Val d'Aosta, over several compact
lines of mountains, which here form
the termination of the horizon. The
prospect of the Yal d'Aosta itself is
charming ; its meadows and cultivated
patches margined by thick woods of
walnut-trees, which creep up the
water-channelled dells at Uie foot of
the mountain— the castles of Usselle
on its rock, of Finnis overlooking its
sea of wood, with numerous white ch.
towers and spires — Aosta and its i^ain,
and the winding flashes of the IXnre
undulating or sweeping across the
vale— combine to form a view striking
and beautiful, which, in the descent,
constantly varies. A series of steep
tourniquets down a water-worn chan-
nel with grassy banks brings the tra-
veller to the forests of chestnut and
walnut trees, for which the Yal d'Aosta
is celebrated. These offer to him their
shade, and soon the vines add their
luxuriant foliage to the cool and re-
freshing path which leads past ihe
mineral spring to the village and
Baths of St. Vincent (2} hrs. from
Brussone). The valley of Aosta is
entered at one of its finest points near

St. Yincent (Rte. 134) {Irm, Ecu
de France, fair), less than 2 m. from

Ohatillon (Rte. 134).

6. The Setta Furca is the easiest

C between the upper end of the
de Lys and the Yal d'Ayas. It
is not in itself a very interesting pass,
and unless taken on the way between
Gressoney and Zermatt, or unless the
traveller wishes to explore the gla-
ciers at the head of the Yal d'Ayas,
there is little to recommend it. This
pass is quite practicable for mules.
A good track leads from Gressonay

up the valley through Noverscb. for
24 hrs., then turns to the 1. and
ascends rapidly for 1 hr. to a small
oratory, whence is a beautiful view
of the Lyskamm and its glacier:
another good hour of gentle ascent
reaches ue c<d (8862 ft), on which is
a wooden cross. Half an hour on the
descent are the ch&lets of Sectgel,
where the accommodation is wretched.
Further down are the cb&tets of Sus-
teUe, where tolerable sleeping quarters
are to be found, "chez l^Enfant."
The very poor village of San Oiacomo
d'Ayas is next reached. The traveller
fares ill here; the cure is said (1855)
to be unwilling to receive visitors.
[Here the pass over the Cimes Blanches
(Rte. 128) branches off.] The road
now follows the stream Evanson, or
Torrent Blanche, to Ayas^ and a little
further joins the track from Brussone
over the Ol de Jon. Distance —
about 7 hrs. from Gressonay to San
Giacomo ; 2} hrs. from San Giaoomo
to Brussone.

ROUTE 127.

VISP TO ZBRMATT OR SAA6.

ViBp.

Stalden ....

. 1

St. NiklauB .

• • 4

. 2

Herbiilggen

> • <

. 1

Randa . . ,

• 1

TiUch . .

* • i

Zermatt . .

• 4

» 4

', 1

8 15

The concourse of travellers to the
valleys around the Monte Bosa* is
every year increasing, and deservedly;
and the inn accommodation has kept

* The late Wm. Brockedon, author of * Pasiv
of the Alps,' was perhaps the first who drew (k
attention of English travellers to Zermatt fli
Monte Rosa. The fame of their unrfvalM
scenery has since been extended by Proieaat
Forbes's 'Alps of Savoy/ and by other n«»« r^
cent works referred to in the introduction.

Piecf' S' Satior/. Iioute 12?. — ViSP TO iEBMATf.

34?

pace with the increased resort of stran-
gers flowing in. The peculiarity of
Zermatt or "Young: Chamouui" •-

18,

that, whereas the way up to it from

the Valais is tolerably easy, there is

no way out except by glacier passes,

which not every one is hardy enough

to attempt. The St. Theodule is,

however, passable from July to the

middle of October. The only direct

mode of reaching Zermatt is from Vis^p

or VUge in the Valais (R. 59), where

horses can be obtained. Each horse

costs 11 fr. a-day, and 1 fr. bonnemain

to the man who leads it. Including

stoppages, 11 hrs. are occupied in

eoing up to Zermatt, and not much

less in coming down. The best plan

is to take horses at Visp, use them at

Zermatt for the Riffelberg, &c., and

return upon them, thus avoiding back

fare.

The other bridle-path to Zermatt is
up the Turtman Thai to Zmeiden or
Gruben the first day, thence over the
hill to St. Niklaus (Rte. 129).

Ladies not equal to a ride of 9 hrs.
from Visp to Zermatt may stop half-
way at St. Nicholas, or Randa, for the
night. The lower part of the valley
is exceedingly hot. It is therefore a
decided gam to push on over-night
beyond Visp, even only to Stalden.
Those who are pressed for time may
reach St. Niklaus or Banda in the
evening, the Riffelberg next day, and
ascend the Gomer-Grat and return
on the third day.

The scenery in the valley lead-
ing to Zermatt is fine, and tne inte-
rest is kept up by occasional glimpses
of the gigantic peaks that enclose
the valley. The people in the valley
seem miserably poor and afflicted
with goitre, and are filthily dirty
in person. At every church is a
well-filled charnel-house, and in the
chnrchyards skulls and bones are
often lying about unnoticed. This
FalJey suffered terribly from the earth-
quake in 1855; the road, which had
jvLst been made, was destroyed in
many places, but it has since been
restored. There is not the least occa-
sion for a guide at any time up to
Zermfttt.

The road leaves Visp on the rt
bank of the river, and is yearly im-
proved. The lower part of the Visper
Thai is very hot, and vines are culti-
vated for some distance above Visp.
The snowy peak of the Balfrin is
seen, and beyond Stalden the Bru-
neck Horn. You cross over to the 1.
bank of the Visp at

Neubrucke. Tne trout rush down to
the Rhone when the glaciers melt, and
are caught here in quantities. Fine
view up from this bridge of the fork
of the valley.

Stalden (2722 ft.) (Irm, Traube,
poor, but clean and moderate, good
muscat wine), at the junction of the
stream from Zermatt, called Gomer-
Visp, with that from Saas, or Saaser-
Visp. There is a path from Stalden to
the'tiospice on the Simplon. The path
to Saas here turns 1. over the Rinn-
brucke (Rte. 122). That to Zermatt
ascends on the 1. bank of the Gorner,
Visp, and the valley of St. Nicholas,
running along the edge of precipices,
winding much, rising high and de-
scending low, and twice crosses the
Visp before reaching

St, Nicholas (Germ. St. Niklaus)
(Inns: Croix Blanche, Soleil; both
fairly good, under one management),
a good place for a halt or for the
night. This village, which is rather
less miserable than its neighbours,
was much injured by the earthquake
in 1855; it is the chief place in the
valley, and is charmingly situated
amidst wild Alpine scenery, tempered
with forests and orchards in the fore-
ground, on the 1. bank of the Visp.

[There is a short but high cut over
the shoulder of the mountain to the
valley of Saas. There is also a pass
to the Turtman -Thai. (Rte. 129.)]

After leaving St. Niklaus the path
soon returns to the rt. bank, traversing
in turn meadow and forest, crossed now
and then by a land-slip or glacier-
stream from the snows above. In front,
the snows of the Breithom and the
Little Mont Cervin soon come into
view, and remain visible at intervals
till near Zermatt. Beyond Herbrug-
gen is

Honda (ItWy EL da Dom, 12 beds)

848

aOUTE 127» — ZERMATT*

Sect. II.

(4740 ft.}» situated among extensiTe
meadows, opposite a gap in the pre-
cipice walling in the valley on the
W., through which the Bies glacier
descends from the Weisshom, which
is here left behind. In 1819, Dec. 27,
a considerable portion of this glacier
lying on the steep slope above the
precipice suddenly detached itself,
and fell from a height of 1500 ft.
into the valley near to the vil-
lage of Kanda; it did not reach it
in descending, but passed a little on
one side of it, yet the mere draft of
air produced by a fall from such a vast
elevation destroyed the greater part
of the houses, scattering the timbers
of which they were built like straws,
over the mountain side, to the distance
of a mile, and hurling millstones many
fathoms up hill. In the summer of
1858 the summit of the Dojn — the
highest of the Mischabelhorner, 14,935
ft. above the sea — ^was for the first
time attained by the Rev. J. L. Davies;
starting before daylight, he reached
the summit in 9 hrs., and descended
in 5, returning to Zermatt in the
evening.

About an hoUr beyond Banda is a
larger village, TascJ^. [From Tasch
the Allalein pass, a difficult glacier
pass, fit only for practised moun-
taineers, leads E. to Saas. The height
is about 12,000 ft.]

Beyond the village of Tasch the road
has been made close to the stream;
and turning a corner where it has
been excavated in the rock, a striking
view of the Mt, Cervin, or Matterlwm,
distinguished from all other peaks
by its slender, isolated pyramid, opens,
and a view is obtainea of

ZER3IATT (Piedmontese Praborgne).
Lvns : H. du Mont Bosa, H. du Mont
Cervin ; both good : H. du Mont Cervin
larger and the more comfortable of the
two, better fare. There is also a good
Inn on the Riffelberg 2J hrs. further,
kept by the proprietors of the H. du
Mont Rosa. This retired village,
of 450 Inhab., 5315 ft. above the sea,
consisting of about 60 quaint old black
wooden houses, with the 2 huge white
inns towering above them, is pUced in a

little plain, close to the grandest sce-
nery of nature, near the junction of 3
valleys, each headed by a glacier. E. is
the j^indelen Glacier, S. the Zermatt
or Gorner Glacier and W. the Zmuts
Glacier. The mineralogist, botanist,
and entomologist may collect rich har-
vests in the neighbourhood. Here
many days may be spent in excursions
to the glaciers and points of view with
which the neighbourhood abounds.
The pasturage appears good, but the
attempts to raise grain crops in this
damp and shady valley are melancholy,
and only serve to show the CTeat in-
dustry of its inhabitants. The bread
is not good, probably because the
wheat can never ripen. In wet wea-
ther this valley must be truly miser-
able. It is now much frequented by
travellers : 1500 to 2000 visitors in a
year.

The grandest object in the views
around Zermatt is the Mont Cervin
(Germ. Matterhom, Ital. Monte Silvio)^
which, near the village, is seen to rise
in singular beauty and magnificence
against the sky, 14,705 Eng. feet high.

Prof. Forbes describes it " as beyond
comparison the most striking natural
object he had seen,— an inaccessible
obelisk of rock, not 1000 ft. lower
than Mont Blanc." It lifts itself from
an otherwise unbroken line of glacier,
which is more than 11,000 £ng. ft
above the level of the sea : this object
alone would repay the trouble of a visit
to Zermatt from Visp.

Guides. — There is no difficulty in
getting good guides at Zermatt, and
most of them speak a little French.
Johann and Peter Taugwald, Stephen
Biener, Joseph Biener, and Pierre
Perrin are among the best. There
is an authorised Tariff of charges to
be seen at the hotels. 50 fr. for
Monte Rosa; 20 fr. over the Theo-
dule to Chatillon; G fr. a day and 1
fr. bonnemain for ordinary excur-
sions; mules 10 fr. a day and 1 fr.
bonnemain.

Uxcursions.

a, *Itiffetberg and ** Gorner Grat.—
The first excursion from Zermatt is
up the Biff elbergt and to the Gorner Gratt

id'

milt

sice

fft

itij
kolf.
lis-
res"

ITJ

D-

.1;

Rothhom

PANffHE SUMMIT

PiecP' ^ Savoy, rte. 127. — the riffelberg. gorner grat.

349

and those who have time but for one

expedition only usually choose this. It

:is very comfortably accomplished by

sleeping two nights at Zermatt ; but

I those who wish to save a day may sleep

at St. Niklaus, next day to the Biffel-

berg Inn, and on the following day

to the Gorner Grat and back to St.

Niklaus. From Zermatt to the Inn

on the Riffelberg is 2^ hrs. on horses,

2 hrs. good walking. From the Inn

to the top of the Gorner Grat 1^ hr.

The Riffelberg is properly a long
rocky ridge or promontory, extend-
ing between the Gorner Glacier
and the Findelen Glacier; but the
portion of it near the inn, and
overhanging Zermatt, is especially
called by that name. The three prin-
cipal summits, rising one higher than
the other from W. to E., are called
the Gorner Grat, the ffochthdligrat,
and the Stockham. The Riffelhom
is a singular detached pinnacle of ser-
pentine rock rising above the Gorner
glacier. An Inn, very' fairly kept,
but often overcrowded, has been built
upon a part of the Riffelberg, at an
elevation of 8430 ft., affording fine
views in the immediate neighbourhood,
and about 1^ hr. from the top of the
Gorner Grat, the great object of
attraction. Charges much too high.

The Inn on the Riffelberg is ver^
conspicuous from Zermatt ; there is
no danger in going up, or even to the
Gorner Grat without a guide, but it
is quite possible to miss the path.
This goes past the ch. and on the 1.
bank of the Visp tor about 10 min.,
when the stream is crossed. The
path then crosses some meadows, and
ascends for about an hr. by a path ex-
ceedingly steep in places, through a no-
ble forest — fir St of larch, then of AroUa
(Arve, pinus cembra); it then emerges
on a sniall alp or pasturage, and, pass-
ing some chalets, turns to the rt. and
crosses a torrent ; the rest of the
ascent is easy, winding round the
shoulder of the mountain towards the
Gorner Glacier, and finally arriving
at the plateau where the inn is situ-
ated. From this plateau there is a
noble view of the Mont Cervin and the
rftnges towards the S, and W. ; and

from points near it are views over the
Gorner Glacier. Leaving the inn,
and keeping a little to the S., and then
turning £. amongst some rocks, the
path ascends, becoming very rugged.
Grand views of the mts. and of the gla-
cier below. A rugged peak is seen on
the rt., the RiffeViom, which it is just
possible, but not profitable, to ascend;
Mr. Wilson, climbing this without a
guide, having previously ascended it
with one, fell and perished, July, 1 865.
The path continues till, in about an hr.
from the inn, it reaches a little lake.
It becomes so rough that it is better
to dismount, and send the horses to
meet you near the Guggli. [Two
narrow footpaths are made down the
face of the cliff on to the glacier;
the one that diverges to the rt. leads
over the ice to the St. Th^odule, the
other to the Weissthor and the summit
of Monte Rosa.] The track is now
over rocky masses with snow in the
hollows, and vegetation becomes very
scanty, untU the summit of the Gorner
Grat is reached, 10,290 ft. above the
sea-level. This is a round knoll, per-
haps 50 yds. across, with precipices
towards the Gorner Glacier and a steep
slope of snow on the N. ; it commands
a splendid view of the Gorner Glacier,
and also a complete panorama, nearly
40 m. in diameter, of snowy mountains,
in which respect it exceeds anything
at Chamouni, where the view is always
confined to one side. The only point
where there is anything to impede a
complete view is a snowy eminence to
the E. on a continuation of the Riffel-
berg ridge, and called Hochthdligrat.
This point is about 1| hr. from the
Gorner Grat; the view differs very
little from that already obtained.

Descending from the Gorner Grat,
and keeping rather towards the N. by
a track not easy to find, in about
J hr. the eminence called Guggli is
reached, the view from which is re-
markable, though it will perhaps ap-
pear tame after that from the Gorner
Grat. The Nesthom on the N. side
of the valley of the Rhone is from
here a conspicuous object.

From Guggli there is a path by
the side of the Findelen Glacier back

350

ROUTE 127. — SCHWARTZSEB. ZMUTT GLACIER.

DcCw* J .1 a

to Zermatt, but it is usual to return
in about ^ hr. over rough but level
ground to the inn, whence by a
circuit of 1 hr., or so, the foot of
the Gomer-gletscher, where the river
issues from it, may be visited ; and
though the vault of ice at present
is far inferior to thuse of the Glacier
du Bois, or Grindelwald, the exquisite
beauty of the spot well deserves a
visit. Here one may literally touch
the meadows with one hand, and the

f lacier with the other. The torrent
:om the vault of the glacier soon
plunges into a singulany beautiful
gorge of serpentine, the commence-
men of a romantic forest ravine,through
which it leaps and struggles until it
reaches the plains of Zermatt. The
descent from the glacier to Zermatt
is about 45 minutes.

The Gomer Glacier is especially
worth observing, owing to the rapidity
of its encroacnments. In 1853 a
foot-bridge, which crossed the stream
just below its exit from the ice ca-
vern, had been carried away, and the
cave is now some yards beyond it.
The glacier protruded into some of
the richest pastures, and the turf was
literally turned up and thrown back
by it as by the share of an enormous
plough.

6. Sohwartzsee and Zmutt Glacier, —
The path is the same as that to the
Theodule for the first 45 min. When
near the foot of the Gorner glacier,
strike up the mountain to the rt.; the
path will soon be found, and about
45 min. of steep zigzags succeed.
After this the track becomes more
level, leading nearly straight for
Mont Cervin, and in 45 min. more
brings you to the Sohwartzsee, 2^ hrs.
from 2^rmatt. Ladies can ride all the
way; but the ascent is in part steep.
The Sohwartzsee is a little lake, 8393
ft., on a buttress of the Matterhom,
with a lone chapel beside it. There is
nothing remarkable in the spot itself;
but the low ridge east of it commands
a superb panoramic view of the whole
basin of Zermatt, with its surrounding
mountains : a view in some respects
finer than that from the RifieL Here
the Matterhorn, rising overhead, is the

principal object; but the view also
embraces the whole extent of the Gor-
ner-gletscher, to the top of Monte
Rosa. A still finer view is obtained
by mountine the rocky i>eak above
the lake, caUed the Bdmli, an hour's
steep ascent, a small part of which is
over ice or moraine, and not easy to
find, or perhaps safe to attempt, without
a guide. It is so infinitely superior
that no one ought to omit it. It was
by way of the Homli buttress that
the Matterhom was first ascended in
July, 1865, by Mr. Whymper, Rev. C.
Hudson, Lord Charles Douglas, and
Mr. Hadow; while descending it, there
occurred a footslip. The rope broke
below Mr. Whymper, and the three
other gentlemen, with the guide Mi-
chael Croz, fell over a precipice of
4000 ft. and perished. The summit
of the Cervin may be deemed almost
inaccessible, and after this catastrophe
it is to be hoped no one will be so reck-
less of his own life and the lives of
others as to try it. Either from the
Homli or from the Sohwartzsee, a dif-
ferent route may be taken, descending
westward to the foot of the great gla-
cier of Zmutt, and returning along the
K. side of the Zmutt valley to Zer-
matt. This route passes through fine
large forests, and abounds in most
singular and beautiful pictures. The
descent this way is less steep, but
longer: it will take about 3^ nours.
The Zmutt Glacier is well worth a
visit on account of the magnificent
views obtained from it.

Another returning route is by the
side of the Gorner Glacier.

c. The Untere Bothhom may be as-
cended in 4^ hrs. by a steep mule
path. The view is more panoramic
than that from the Gorner Grat ; it
rises in the centre of a complete circle
of snow mountains, and you see at one
view the 3 chief glacier routes leading
out of the valley of Zermatt, viz the
Matteijoch into Val d'Aosta, the
Weiss Thor into Val Anzasca, and
that by Zmutt Glacier into Yal
d'Erin. There is a short and steep
descent into the FindelenthaL

d. From Zermatt or the Riffelberg
a rather difilcult |)ath is now often

Pied^' d Savoy, boute 127.— the weiss thor.

351

taken by English travellers, leading
directly across the glaciers of Monte
Bosa, and afPording a very short cut
from Zermatt to Hacagnaga, in the
Val Anzasca.

This is the pass now called the
Weiss Thor, but, to distinguish it
from the old and now disused pass of
that name, it should be called the New
Weiss Thor, (See Rte. 121.) The
pass now used, which appears to have
been first discovered about 1849 or
1850, is rather higher than the old
pass, being 11,851 ft. above the sea.
For mountaineers who can count upon
the perfect steadiness of their heads,
and upon their endurance' in the event
of bad weather coming on, there is no
danger in the pass; but it is by no
means a route for inexperienced tra-
vellers, unless accompanied by good
guides, and in. very settled weather.
The guides ask 2.5 fr. for the expedi-
tion, and a stout youth to act as
porter may be had for 15 fr. In
taking the pass from Zermatt it is
lather shorter to go by the Findelen
glacier, but it is far more advisable to
lueep at the Riffel Hotel, and to be on
the Gorner glacier as early as possible
in the morning. Starting from the
ion on the Riffelberg, the path on the
rt. leaves the little lake at the foot of
the Riffelhorn, and then passes nearly
on a level along the very steep slope
forming the southern face of the
Gorner Grat, at first at a great height
above the glacier, till the gradual rise
of the glacier brings its surface to a
level with the path in about an hour
after leaving the hotel. The glacier
is thus ascended for some distance,
but the crevasses soon render it neces-
sary to return to the rocks on the 1.
In about 2} hrs. from the Riffel the
path takes to the glacier again. From
this point, with the ridge dividing
the Gorner fi'om the Findelen glacier
on the 1., Monte Rosa on the rt., and
the peak of the Cima di Jazi in ^ont,
the track lies nearly in a straight line
over easy slopes of snow, and across
or round numerous crevasses, some
altogether concealed, others revealing
blue chasms walled with ice of great
parity and solidity. Towards the

higher part of this great snoW-field
the 2 glaciers— Gorner and Findelen
— become mingled together, there
being here only a faint dividing
ridge. Looking back from here,
the view is very grand, and takes in
nearly the whole of the yast chain
extending from Monte Rosa to Mont
Blanc — seen, however, in the direction
of its length, so that it is not easy to
distiiiguish many of the intermediate
peaks. The track now bears away to
the 1., or nearly due N., leaving on
the.rt. hand the snowy summit of the
Cima de Jazi, and crossing a slight
depression in the ridge joining the
latter summit and the Strahlhom.
After ascending for a short distance
on the N. side of this depression, a
point is reached where in two or three
steps the scene is changed as if by en-
chantment. Instead of toiling over a
snow-field, with no object visible save
boundless fields of vievi and occasional
black rocks, the traveller finds him-
self on a narrow ledge of rock appa*
rently overhanging a precipice. On
the N. or left-hand side this terminates
in a projecting buttress only a few
yards distant; in the opposite direc-
tion the precipitous wall on whose
summit he is standing is seen to ex-
tend far to the southward, until it is
united to the tremendous eastern fiice
of Monte Rosa. The highest inter-
vening summit is that of the Cima de
Jazi, not more than 600 or 700 ft.
higher than where he stands. The
precipice terminates only a few feet
from the sunmiit of the Cima; and
there, and in many other places, the
thick layer of snow which coats the
top of the ridge is seen to form an
oyerhanging cornice that might be
easily broken away by the weight of
an unwary traveller. Looking down-
ward, if the valley below be clear, the
traveller sees the lower end of the
Macngnaga glacier about 6000 ft.
below him, appearing so near that a
stone flung from the hand might
reach it. It far more commonly hap-
pens, even in fine weather, that a sea
of cloud hangs like a pall between
the valley below and the spectator.
Lying, as ^he^ do, some thousands of

352

ROUl'E 127. — THE WEISS THOR.

Sect. n.

feet belo'w hira, he sappoees the clouds
to fill the valley, while the people of
Macuenaga, seeing clouds three or
four tnousand feet above their heads,
imagine that they cover the mountain-
tops. The single point at which the
ec^ of the precipice is conveniently
reached is often selected by the guides
as a halting-place for luncheon. How-
ever uninviting the appearance of the
precipice may be even to moun-
taineers, it is quite possible to descend
directly from this point, but the guides
seldom choose that course. The rocks
are excessively steep, and there are
one or two points that are scarcely
safe, except to practised cragsmen,
nsed to "hold on by their eyelids."
The usual course is to ascend along
the ridge for a short distance further
to the N., until a few projecting rocks
are reached. At this point the great
wall connecting Monte Rosa and the
Strahlhom, along the top of which
the track has hitherto lain, is joined
by a transverse ridge running in an
easterly direction, and forming in this
place the boundary between Switzer-
land and Italy. This transverse ridge
is much lower than the wall against
which it abuts, and at the point of
junction it is united by a steep buttress
of rock partly coated with snow and
ice. It is by this buttress that the
pass of the New Weiss Thor is usually
effected. The N. side looks towards
Saas, and overhangs the Schwarzherg
Olacier, which descends near to the
Distel Alp. The S. side of the but-
tress faces the Macugnaga glacier.
It is by the N. side that the first part
of the descent is made, along some
very steep but not dangerous faces of
rock. There is good holding^ground
for hands and feet. After about a
quarter of an hour the chief apparent
difficulty of the pass is encountered.
This is an extremely steep ridge of
snow, sometimes frozen hard, along
the edge of which the descent lies.
With good guides, and proper use of
the rope, there is no danger.

At the foot of this are some steep
rocks with snow between them. The
track now takes to the Macugnaga
side of the ridge, and the r«mfund«r

of the descent is alternately over
rocks, piles of d^ris, and snow slopes
which are sometimes favourable for a
glissade, Heio xtie rope, which ought
to have been in use since reaching the
neve of the upper part of the Gomer
glacier, may be laid aside, and the
remainder of the descent presents no
difficulties. From 9 to 10 hrs. (ac-
cording to the state of the snow)
should be allowed for reaching Ma-
cugnaga from the Riffel Hotel, exclu-
sive of halts. At least an hour more
should be allowed in taking the pass
from Macugnaga to the Riffel, which
involves a much longer and steeper
ascent. Clouds often gather round
the summit, and the services of a
thoroughly experienced guide are
essential. [From the foot of the
ar^te it is easy to reach the Schwarz-
herg glacier, and so descend into the
valley of Saas, a little above the inn
at the Mattmark See. (See Rte. 122.) 2

e. The Weiss-thor pass is, however,
rather difficult and dangerous ; and a
finer view can be obtained by going
part of the way and then ascending
Cima diJazi (12,527 ft.). This can be
easily reached in 5 hrs. from the Rif-
felberg Hotel. During the greater
part of the time the path is over ice
and snow on easy slopes, and there is
no other mountain in the Alps of that
height which can be so easily ascended.
The view from the top extends over
the Pennine chain, the Bernese Alps,
and the plains and lakes of Italy, and
to the Tyrol. A rope is always ad-
visable, but in general there is neither
difficulty nor danger. The guide has
usually 10 fr.

/. Monte Rosa, The highest part
of Monte Rosa consists of a range of
5 peaks running N. and S., the ex-
tremities of the range not being more
than 2 m. apart. Commencmg at the
northern end, the names and heights
of the peaks are, according to the
latest measurements, —

Nord End . .
HSchste Spltze
ZuiDBtein Spltie
Signal Knppe .
parrot Spltxe ,

Eng.ft.

15,132

15,217

15,004 '

14,964

14,57T

Piect- 4r Seto^.

EOtrrE 127. — MONTE B03A.

. The Sard End yias first ascended in
185S by Sir T. and Mr. E, Buxton, and
Mr. Cowell. The SSchste Spitzt was
aseended by the brothers Schlagint-
veit, bf Messrs. E. G. and C. Smjlh,
ud bj Mr. E. S. Kennedy ptior to
1S55, bat the point reached was about
IS ft short of the highest anmrnil.
This HIS first attained in the latter
year by Messrs. Hudson, G. and C.
Smyth, Birkbeck, and Stevensoii, ac-
companied by Ulrich Lauener, of
Lauterbrunnen, and 3 Zermatt guides.
This, (he highest peak of the moun-
t^n, is called pai- excellence Monie
Boea.

The Zmnttein Spitzt vas seveml
time* ascended by the intrepid ex-
plorer whose name it bears.

TbeS^na/JTuppevas reached in IS12
by M> Gnifetti, the cure of Alagna.

Since 1860, the ascent of Monte
Rosa, ha* become Ter^ commoa ; for,
though it is more difficult and dan-
gerous than Ht. Blanc, yet, by starting

from the Eiffelberg, the expedition
up and dovn again may be accom-
plished in about 14 hre,, and there
is no necessity for sleeping out on the
mountain. It takes from 7 to 8 hrs.*
walk over snow and glacier, pawing
Auf dep Platte, to reach the base of
the cone forming the summit. Here
the real difficulty begins. It is a very
steep rock, its hollows filled with ice ■
and, though only SOO ft. high, re-
quires nearly an hour to ascend, and
as much to descend. The most diffi-
cult part of all is that which leads to
the very hijthest point. The best
guides should be taken, and the usual
charge is 50 fr. each guide.

g. Those who do not intend crossing
into the Val d'Aoata from Zermatt
by the St. Theodule (Rte. 128) will be
gratified by asceudinff to the highett
point of the pass. The scenery is
grand in the highest degree, and the
excorsioD neither dsngerous, difficult,
R,3

354

EOUTE 127. — ^ZESMATT TO THE EINnsCH THAL. - Scct. H.

nor very faUgning, unless tlie snow
be very soft. It is possible to ride as
far as the glacier in 2^ hrs. from Zer-
matt ; it then takes 2| hrs. fair walk-
ing to reach the summit of the pass,
the view from which is indeed magni-
ficent. The return to Zermatt may
be made in 3| hrs.

From the hut on the col the Breit-
hom may be ascended in about 3 hrs.,
the descent will take about 2 hrs.
The view from the summit is nearly
equal to that from Monte Rosa.

h. Zermatt to the Einfisch Thai (Rte.
129). There are 2 glacier-passes from
Zermatt to the Einfisch Thai, both
difficult, and fit only for well-trained
mountaineers. The more direct of
the two is the Trip: Joch, 11,601 ft. in
height. Very dangerous late in the
season. This is reached by ascending
the ravine of the Trift^ which opens
close to the village of Zermatt, and
then traversing the Trift Glacier^ close
to the base of the Trift/iom. A very
steep slope of ice leads up to the pass,
which is a mere gap in an extremely
sharp ridge. The view from this
point in both directions is extremely
striking, and well worth an excursion
from Zermatt. The descent towards
the Zinal Glacier down a formidably
steep precipice of rock tries the steadi-
ness of both travellers and guides.
From the base of the precipice the
descent over the Zinal Glacier is not
difficult, save that in one crevassed
portion it is sometimes necessary to
take to the rocks. This pass might
with more advantage be taken from
the Zinal side than from Zermatt. It
is a day's work of 15 or 16 hrs., in-
cluding the ordinary halts.

A longer, but for the most part less
difficult, pass was effected by Mr. W.
Mathews in 1859, and by Mr. Tuckett
in 1860, by the Col de la Dent Blanche,
at the extreme S. end of the Zinal
Glacier. The most serious difficulty
arises from a great bergschrund running
across the upper part of the Zinal
Glacier. In the lattw part of the
season this becomes a very serious
obstacle. On reaching the summit
from the Zinal side, one of the most
striking views in the Alps is suddenly

presented. The peak of the Matter-
horn in all its grandeur is seen exactly-
opposite, rising to the height of very
nearly 15,000 ft., while the spectator
is himself upon a terrace about
11,400 ft above the sea. The Zmutt
Glacier, filling the valley between, is
reached by a steep descent, for the
most part over the slopes of the Ebi-
horn. At least 15 hrs. should be
allowed for this expedition.

The great interest of the last>
mentioned pass arises from the won-
derful view of the Matterhorn. It is
possible in a single day to combine
the most interesting portions of both
expeditions, and return to Zermatt in
the evening. For this purpose the
traveller should first ascend to the
top of the Trift Pass, and then, re- -
turning to the foot of the Trift
Glacier, ascend the shoulder of the
Gabelhorn, until a point is gained
nearly opposite the Matterhorn, the
view of which can scarcely be sur-
passed by that from the Col de la
Dent Blanche. From thence it is
possible to descend the very steep
southern slopes of the Gabelhom,
near to the lower end of the Zmutt
Glacier; but as this is a matter of
couMderable difficulty, it shonld not
be attempted unless there be time in
case of failure to effect a retreat It
may be practicable to effect a passage
between the peaks of the Upper and
Lower Gabeihorn, and so reach the
foot of the Zmutt Glacier, but this
has probably not yet been attempted.

t. Less difficult than the last-men-
tioned excursions is the ascent of the
Mettelhom on the N. side of the Trift
ravine. The ascent is best made by
following a narrow track, at first
nearly due N. from Zermatt, then
mounting by zigzags and bearing to
the 1. till the Trift glacier comes.into
view. From thence a direct ascent,
partly over snow,, and very steep
towards the top, leads to the summit,
11,190 ft., 4 hrs. from Zermatt The
view is one of the most magnificent of
ice scenes. It is a panorama of ice
and snow, far superior to that from
any other known mountain, equally
accessible. The gigantic ice-dub of

FiscP' ^ Sawy. route 127.— adlee pass, schwarz thor. 355

the* Wefsshorn are fall in face to tbe

'W^ the great Alpine range is on the

S.^ the Saas Grat on the E., and the

Oberland Mountains grandly close the

Zermatt valley to the N. All the

TKioaiitains seem to turn their most pre-

cipUoas sides to the observer from this

remarkable point. The climb is within

the powers of a moderate pedestrian

who hat a good gnide.

y. The passage from the Valley of
Saas to Zermatt has been effected at
3 different points in the ridge of the
Saas Grat. The most interesting, bat
also the highest and most difficult of
these, is the Adler Pass, discovered in
1848 by M. Imseng, the well-known
and mach- respected cure of Saas.
Starting from Zermatt or the Riffel-
berg, the track lies along and npon
the Pmdelen Glacier^ tending ultimately
towards the extreme N.E. corner,
where it abuts on the ridge connecting
the Rympfishhorn with the Strahl-
horn. The upper part is an extremely
steep slope, partly ice and partly rock,
where it is usually necessary to cut
steps in the ice. From the summit
the view is magnificent, and the de-
scent to the inn at the Mattmark See
is not difficult. If too much time has
not been consumed on the way, it is
quite possible to reach the summit of
the Strahlhom, which rises to tbe S.B.
of tbe pass to a height of 13,750 ft.
There is probably no one of the higher
peaks of the Alps so well situated for
a panoramic view ; and the ascent,
which may be accomplished in an
hoar from the summit of the Adler
Pass, itself 12,461 ft. in height, is
strongly recommenddd to adventuroufi
alpine travellers.

Tbe second pass, the AUaUm Pass,
is ^roached from the village of
I%sch by the TSsch Glacier. It does
not present any serious difficulty to
practised mountaineers. The descent
on the £. side leads to the inn at the
Mattmark See. #

A more direct pass from Tasch to
Saas, instead of crossing on the S.
side of the Allaleinhom to the Alla-
lein Glacier, passes on the N.W. side
of that peak to the upper slopes of the
F4e Qlacier. This pass has been

latelv made known by the Rev. L.
Stephen. The ascent of the Allaletn-
horn (13,235 ft.), first accomplished
in 1856 by Mr. Ames, may be com-
bined with either of the last-mentioned
passes.

k. A difficult pass, called the Schwarz
ThoTf across the ridge of Monte Rosa,
between the Breithom and the western
of the Twins {Zwill%nge\ and leading
from the Riffelberg to the head of the
valley of Ayas, is described in * Peaks,
Passes, and Glaciers.' Another, still
higher, pass over the same ran^, be-
tween the Lyskamm and the highest
peaks of Monte Rosa, leading direct to
Gressonay, was effected in 1859. The
height of this pass probably exceeds
13,500 ft.

/. The pass of the Col c^Erm is de-
scribed in Rte. 132. The summit of
the pass, and the TSte Blanche which
rises 900 ft. above it, may be reached
in a long day's excursion, returning to
Zermatt in the evening.

The foregoing list may give some
notion of the vast variety of interest-
ing expeditions that may be made
from Zermatt or the Riffelberg. The

freat majority of these involve a good
eal of exertion, and many of them
are fit only for thoroughly-trained
mountaineers. It is, however, an
error to suppose that those who have
not the strength or activity to under-
take difficult excursions may not find
in the immediate neighbourhood of
Zermatt, and the hotel on the Riffel-
berg, a vast variety of new combina-
tions, including some of the grandest
and most striking natural objects in
the world. To such persons the chief
obstacle is the distance to be travelled
between Visp and Zermatt ; but, since
tolerably good accommodation is pro-
vided at St. Nicholas, the journey has
been put within the reach even of
delicate ladies.

356

BOUTE 128. — ^ZERMATT TO CHATILLON.

Sect. II.

ROUTE 128.

ZERMATT TO CH ATILLON, BT THE OOL DE
ST. THEODULE (OB MATTEBJOCK) AND
VAL TOURNANCHE ; OB TO OBES80NAT,
BT THE CIIIEB BLANCHES.

This is the easiest of the high glacier
passes of the Alps, and on that account
the most frequented. When the snow
is very firm mnles or horses can be
taken across, and so long as the right
direction is followed on the glacier
there is no risk of any kind. No one
should, however, attempt to pass it
alone. In the very common case of
clouds resting on the summit, it is
very easy to miss the way, and fatal
accidents have occurred from the
neglect of the rope, which on this, as
on every glacier pass where the ice is
coated with snow, ought to be used,
at least during bad weather and
when the clouds lie low, not from any
immediate apprehension of danger, but
because it is the proper way of avert-
ing the possibility of it The time
requisite varies according to the state
of the snow. An ordinary pedestrian
anay reach the summit in 4 J hrs. from
Zermatt, Breuil in 2^ hrs. more, Val
Tournanche in 2 hrs., and Ch&tillon
in 3i hrs. from Yal Tournanche. An
active pedestrian may reduce the time
from 12^ to about 10^ hrs. exclusive
of halts.

At least 300 travellers, many of them
ladies, cross in a year. The usual plan
for ladies, is to take a mule from Zer-
matt for 2 hrs. (10 fr.), or 3 hrs. (15 fr.),
which last brings them to the foot of
the glacier. Mules can sometimes be
taken across, but it is usual and better
to walk over the glacier. 1^ hr. up to
the Col, and li hr. down to the foot of
the Fourneaux, 1^ hr. short of Breuil,
where mules can often be found in the
season; or, if thought necessary, a
guide may be sent on to order a mule
from Breuil (6 fr.). The guides charge
15 fr. to Breuil or Val Tournanche,
20 fr. to Ch&tillon, and expect 1 or
2 fr. bonnemain.

By starting from the Riffelberg

the ascent is shortened by half an

hour, and this way is much the more

interesting to pedestrians, because it

leads right across the broad fields of

the Gomer Glacier at a level where

the ice has no concealed dangers*

but mules can never be used. In

crossing from the Italian side, the

ascent to the Riffelberg will take

rather more time than the descent

to Zermatt. The path on leaving

Zermatt takes -the 1. bank of the

stream, and in about 15 min. crosses

the torrent from the Zmutt glacier ;

it then winds amongst meadows

and ch&lets towards the W. side of

the Gomer glacier, and in 45 min

from Zermatt begins to ascend the

woods and pastures on the W. side of

the Gomer Glacier. The torrent from

the Furgge glacier, descending in a

deep rifi^ is crossed, and after this the

path becomes very steep. 2 hours

from Zermatt the pastures, are left,

and the course becomes bad for mules,

lying over rocks and loose schist, with

no definite path, till in 1 hr. the glacier

is reached. The glacier is steep but

singularly smooth and free from

crevasses. After about ^ hr. of glacier

the rocks are taken for 15 min., and

then an ascent of } hr. again over the

glacier leads to the Col. Here care

is essential. There are always a few

crevasses covered over, and highly

dangerous to a straggler whenever

snow has fallen freshly.

The summit of the pass of St.
Theodule is 10,899 Eng. ft above the
level of the sea. The scene imme-
diately around is one oontinuoos
ice-field. Then, the eye wanders over
a vast intervening country to the
Bernese Alps, sweeps round by the
Breithora and Monte Rosa, looks down
upon a thousand peaks towards Pied-
mont, and rests upon that wonder of
the Alps, the Cervin or Matterhom,
in immediate proximity.

On the actual crest of the Col there
is some bare rock, and a little space
so exposed that the snow cannot rest
upon it Here Saussure remained 3
days, with bis son and attendants,
engaged in experiments. at this ele-

Piedf' Sf Savoy, . ROUTE 128. — pass of st. thbodule.

367

vation. Traces of the rude cabins
in Trfaich they sheltered still exist, and
also of a redoubt thrown up 3 cen-
taries ago by the Yalaisans, and
known by the name of Fort St. Theo-
dule : displayed to mark the Swiss
ftontier along the crest of the Alps.

A "hat was erected on this Col in
1854, where bread, cheese, and hot
wine may be obtained during the
summer. This is the highest habita-
tion in Europe. A larger structure
was commenced, but was blown down
while still incomplete.

From the summit the descent to-
wards the Val d'Aosta lies over the
glacier for 40 min. ; then a steeep
descent down rocks and loose rubbish
called the Fourneaux for 45 min. At
the foot of this, or even at the foot of
the glacier, mules left by travellers on
the ascent may often be found waiting
daring the season. 1^ hr. over pas-
tures then brings you to the very
comfortable

Inn : H. du Mt. Cervin, at Ooemen,
near BreuU, 3 hrs. from St. Theodule
Pass, situated on an eminence over-
looking the little plain of Breuil,
and in the midst of very grand
seeaery, being surrounded on 3 sides
\fy the most tremendous precipices,
by snowy peaks and huge glaciers ;
over-head towers Mont Cervin, to
the E. the Breithom, and on the S.
are seen the singular rocks called
Chateau des Dames, From Breuil the
ascent of the Breithom may be made
more conveniently than from Zermatt,
as well as many other excursions
smongst the rocks and glaciers. Mules
and side-saddles are to be found at
Breail. There is no occasion for a
guide below Breuil. Descending to
the little plain and following the 1.
bank of the stream, an extraordinary
scene of devastation and desolation
is crossed, then another little plain
followed by another waste, and then
another plain with the ch&letsof Aouet.
The path then enters a ravine and
follows a narrow ledge amongst mag-
nificent scenery to the little chapel of
N. D. de la Garde (1 hr. 15 min. from
Breuil); near this the torrent below
makes 1 or 2 fine waterfalls, and the

view looking back on Mont Cervin is
very fine. A short and steep descent
follows, and then the torrent is crossed
to the rt. bank. SO min. farther the
path again crosses to the 1. bank, and
a short ascent leads to

Val Toumanche (^Inn : H. du Monte
Rose, homely but clean), a vUlage
finely situated on an eminence com-
manding a magnificent view down the
valley, terminating with the snowy
mass of the Grand Faradis.

A steep set of zigzags leads down to
the bridge, which takes the path to the
rt bank.

The whole of the scenery below
Val Touruanche is most magnificent.
The valley is green and usually
shaded with noble chestnuts and
walnut trees ; below foams the torrent,
above on each side are tremendous
rocks and precipices, and the Mont
Cervin is frequently in view. About
an hour below Val Toumanche some
extraordinary remains of a Boman
Aqueduct may be seen high up on the
face of the rock, on the rt., and they are
continued at intervals for several miles.
The finest portion consists of several
arches very perfect, in front of a nearly
perpendicular cliff several hundred
feet above the valley, nearly opposite
the village of Antey, hanging like a
picture against the rock. The road
continues on the rt. bank for nearly
2 hrs., then crosses for about 10 min.,
and returns to the rt. bank for tiie
rest of the way to Ch&tillon. The
mule-track for the last 2 m. rises
high above the stream, but pedestrians
can find paths close to the' stream and
through green and shady meadows till
close to Cbd.tillon. This part of the
valley is fearfully hot in summer, and
should be passed early in the morning
or late in the evening.

C7Aaii«on(SeeRte. 134.). /wtw better
at St. Vincent, lower down.

Eoute Beversed, — Guides, horses, and
side-saddles will be found at Chatillon,
at Val Toumanche, and at Breuil : the
guides ask 20 fr. to Zermatt, with 1
or 2 fr. bonnemain. No guide is
wanted up to Breuil; beyond that

358

KOUTE 129. — ST. mCBOLkS TO 3IBBRE.

Sect. H.

place no one sbonld attempt the
Col vithont one. Antoine Pession
of Val Toarnaoche is a good guide.
Male from Chitilion to Breail 10 fr.,
Breuil to the glacier 5 or 6 fr. A
short distance outside Cbfttillon a foot-
path to the rt. goes along the stream
through shaded meadows and joins the
mule-path about 2 m. farther on. It
takes 4 hrs. moderate walking to reach
Vid Toumanche, and about 2^ hrs. to
go from thence to Breuil. 3 hrs.
are quite sufficient for the ascent to
the Ool, unless there be much fresh
snow ; and 3A hrs. or less will take
the traveller from the summit to Zer-
matt or to the Riffelberg.

To reach the -valley of Ayas from
Zermatt by the Col de St. Theodule
iuToWes a much longer passage over
glacier than in the ordinary route to
Val Tonmanche, but presents no
difficulty unless ■ after fresh snow,
when it may be very fatiguing.

A little below the Col of St. Th^
dule, on the Italian side, the course
turns off to the 1. and descends over
a plateau of snow to the chain of the
Clmes Blanches (1^ hr.), whence
traversing the Aventina Glacier the
ch&letsof Aventina( I ^hr.)are reached,
and in 2 hrs. more St. Giacomo
d'Ayas. The Val d'Ayas may be de-
scended to Brussoue (Kte. 125), or
the Betta Furca may l>e crossed to
Gressonay. The accommodation at
Ayentina or at St. Giacomo is but of
the poorest kind, but it is necessary
to sleep at either place unless the
traveller is able to push on to Gresso-
nay, a very long day*s voalk,

[There is a pass, called the Gol de
Portola, from Antey in the Val Tour-
nanche to Brussone in the Yal Chal-
lant, respecting which the Editor has
received no information.]

ROUTE 129.

ST. NICHOLAS TO SIEBBB OR SUSTBN, OUT
THE SIMPLON, IIT THE AUCaTBORD
PASS TO ORUBEN IN TURTMAN THAL,
AND B7 z'MEIDEN PASS TO ST. LUC IK
VAL d'aNNIVIERS. [aSCENT OF BELLA
TOLA.]

8t. Nicholas
Jung Chapel .
Augstbord Pass
Grubeo . .
MefdenPass .

Hrs.

H
2i
2
3i

St. Luc 2i

This district was until lately seldom
visited. Now that inns have been
built at Gruben (Zmeiden) in the Tart-
man Thai ; at St, Luc^ and also at
Zinal, in the Einfisch Thai (Val d*An-
niviers) ; and at *EtoIena^ in the Val
d'Herens (d'Erin, or Erinper Thai; ;
these valleys will probably be as much
viaited as any part of the Alps, the
scenery being unsurpassed.

A steep bridle-path along thenearlv
precipitous rocks that rise on the W.
side of the village of St. Niklans
leads to the ch&lets and chapel of
Jung, commanding a very fine view of
the Saas Grat and Monte Kosa Hence
the old footway diverged over the
Jung Joch. The present bridle-path
over a diflFerent col is in every way
preferable. 1 hr. further the crest of
the valley is reached. Here a pile of
stones (or " stein-mann '*) marks a
magnificent view-point, including the
Saas Grat, Aletsch Glacier, Weisshom,
and Af onte Uo^a. From thence the wild
and rather dreary glen of the Ans-
borthal leads to the summit (? 8000 ft.)
of the ridge, which, descending from
the Weisshom, separates the valley
of S. Niklaus from the Turtman Thai.
[The Zegnten (or Dreizehnten) Horn
(^10,521 ft.) may be hence ascended
rt. in 1 hr. by a rough footpath prac-
ticable for ladies, it is a first-class
view. The panorama is unbroken,
except where the neighbouring Weiss-
horn shuts out the Matterhom: the
Aletsch Glacier is seen from top to
bottom. The Oberland is fully de-

PiedP' 4r Sawy. B. 129,— turtman thal to einfisch thal. 359

fined fmoL the Diablerets to the
Oldenbom. There is tome confusion
of names between this moantatn and
the Lower Schwanhom (9593 ft.).
The Zeyntenhorn lies E. of Gruben
(by compass); the Scbwarzhorn is
N.B.] A long descent down a dreary
valley leads to the ch&lets of the
Graben Alp. Here the pathway be-
comes good. Thenoe to

Gruben (by the hamlet of Meiden or
Zmeiden). {Inn: Weisshom, fair, bat
dear, charmingly placed in a g^een
meadow on the banks of the stream,
with rocky koolis cropping out of the
turf.) Guides and males. Gruben
is 6 hrs. from St. Niklaas. [The
BrwKMiighom, one of the peaks of the
Weisshorn impending over St Nik-
laas, was ascended in 1853 by M. Tan-
tigaoni, the cur€ of that village, with
his curate.]

The Tiiriman Thai is a wild valley
about 15 m. in length, from t^e point
where its stream falls into the Rhone
at Tourtemagne (/»n ; ♦Poste) (Rte.
59), to the great glacier on the N.
side of the Weisshorn, whence it
takes its rise. Though, in addition
to numerous ch&Iets which are perched
by the upper pastures above the valley,
it coutaius several hamlets, these con-
sist exclusively of m-tyens, which are
inhabited for a few weeks only in the
spring and autumn. A magnificent
forest formerly occupied the lower
part of the valley. It has lately fallen
to the axe, and its remains are un-
sightly. The timber is partly floated,
and partly taken by slides, down to
Turtman, where it is sawn. The
summer inhabitants of the Turtman
Thai come from the German portion
of the Vaiais ; those of the Val dAn-
niviers and Val d'Hereus are French-
speaking people of LAtin origin, and
are luperiur m point of appearance.
These three valleys are free from
cr^rioism.

Gruben to Turtman (Tourtemagne),
on the Simplon Road {Iwn: Poste)
(Rte. 59 ), is a bridle-path of 3^ hrs.
The road does not pass in sight of the
waterfall behind that village.

Turtman Ohder. The vfOley may

easily be ascended to its head, 3^ m.
from Gruben, and a vi^it made to this
magnificent glacier. Mules can be
taken past Zerbitzen, more than half
way.

From the Turtman Thai to the ValcPAn-
niviers {Einfisch That) by the Meiden
Pass.

There are two bridle-passes from
the head of the Turtman Thai into
the Einfisch Thai, called respectively
(a) the Meiden — the easier (only 5
hrs.), (6) the Fas de Bauf (7 hrs.),
with the advantage of permitting the
ascent of the Bella Tola by the way.
A foot-path more southerly than either
of these is the Pas de la Forcietta
leading to Ayer. By this route an
active pedestrian might probably
reach Zinal in one long day from St.
Niklaus.

a. Meiden Pass. Crossing the stream
which descends from the great glacier
of Turtman, now full in sight, an ill-
defined path ascends the steep side of
the valley opposite to Meiden. Keep-
ing to the 1. towards the upp^r part,
it leads to a number of very poor
ch&lets perched on the brow of the
mountain, overlociking the Turtman
valley, and commanding a magnificent
view of the Weisshoru, with its at-
tendant glaciers. From this point to
the top of the pass, which lies imme-
diately to the rt. of some steep pin-
narles of quartz rock, there is no well-
defined track ; the upper part of the
way is very steep. The scene which
presents itself on the south side of the
path descending towards Luc is very
wild and striking, having the ap-
pearance of a gigantic ruin, caused
b^ the falling down of some of the
pinnacles of quartz rock which form
the main ridge. At length a point is
attained which overlooks the Einfisch
Thai, or Val d' Annioiers^ one of the
least known, most interesting, and
most beautiful valleys in the Alps.
From this point there is a good path
to the village of

St. Luc {Jnni H. de la Bella Tola,
good, civil landlord, who is also an

360

ROUTE 129. — BELLA TOLA. VAL d'ANIHVIERS.

Sect. II.

experienced guide), which is perched
upon the steep £. slope of the valley,
about 2000 ft., or It hr., above Vis-
soye. From the village, which has
been twice burned down since 1840,
there is a magnificent view of the
head of the valley, with the (here)
chisel-fi^aped head of the Matterhom,
locally called Grande Couronne, tow-
ering over the Col de la Dent Blanche
(Rte. 127 h). The Pas de Bmif is
somewhat more northerly.

\ hr. past the Col is a path that
leads up to the *BeUa Tola^ or Bor-
terhom (9744 ft.) (here again is some
confusion of names), a command-
ing point N.E. of St. Luc, who^^e
summit is reached from thence in 4^
hrs. The final ascent is easy, and
occupies 1 hr. on foot. The view is
magnificent, and 200 peaks of moun-
tains are visible. Returning to the
pathway of the Fas de B®uf, the
descent to St. Luc is easy.

The easiest way of entering the
Yal d'Anniviers is from Sierre in the
Valais (Rte. 69). The lower part of
the valley is a narrow defile abounding
in striking points of view. A new
road has been constructed, easier,
though perhaps less picturesque than
the old. Three tunnels have been
bored through the projecting rocks.
By this way Vissoye may be reached
in 3 hrs. from Sierre.

[There is another bridle-path of
much beauty into the Yal d'Anniviers
from Susten, on the Simplon Road,
leading in 5 or 6 hrs. by the Ill'See
and Cbaudolin to St. Luc. The Ill-
see is 7710 ft. ; the col some hundred
feet higher. By making ^ hr. detour,
a crest overlooking the precipice N. of
the Illhom may be visited. It is locally
called the *EbouUment (or lUgraben).
Here the whole side of a mountain
seems to have given way, and fallen
as a vast ruin into the valley, leaving
a yawning gulf surrounded by crum-
bling and treacherous crags. The
Illhorn (8937 ft.) may be ascended;
bat the view is not equal to that from
either the Bella Tola or the Zeynten-
horn. The descent to Susten is very
fine, passing through a dense forest
of old pines, with peeps to the 1. into

the Illgraben. After this are pastares
and chiilets, and then a second pine
wood.]

A Scandinavian origin . has been
attributed to the population of this
valley, but at present they speak a
French patois^ nearly identical with
that spoken in the neighbouring Val
d'Erin, and differing but little from
that of the Yal d'Aosta. They are
more simple and also more coarteons
to strangers than in most of the dis-
tricts which are frequently visited by
tourists. Exposed but rarely to the
contact of their fellow countrymen,
their lives are passed between hard
labour and the offices of religion, in
both of which they are most diligent.

There are several populous villages
in the valley, of which the chief is
Vissoyef but there is no inn. There is
a curious old castle, with its dungeon.
[From a point called Bee de Bossons
(11,000 ft.), between Yissoye and the
Yal d'Erin, there is a magnificent vie^vr
extending from the Grand Combin
to the Cervin and the Bernese Alps.]
2 m. above Yissoye, and 1 m. belovr
the hamlet of Cremenz, the valley
divides into two branches, of which
the western, leading to the passes into
the Yal d*Erin, is called the Val de
Torrent^ while the eastern branch
contains the stream descending from
the great glacier of Zinal, and no one
who is favoured by fine weather should
omit to go as far as

Zinal (very tolerable little Inn, rongh
accommodation, good wine, civil
people), the last hamlet in this branch
of the valley, 2 J hrs. from Yissoye,
passing Ayer^ near which cobalt and
nickel are found.

Excursions. — ^To the ch&.lets of Arpi-
tetta^ which command a magnificent
view. Seen from this point, the W.
side of the Weisshorn may rank
with the E. side of Monte Hosa
and the S. side of Mont Blanc,
among the grandest scenes in the
Alps. Zinal is the best starting-point
for the two glacier passes leading to
Zermatt described in Rte. 127 /i. A
good guide named Yiennin lives there.
Travellers from Zinal to Evolena may
ride to the chftlets near the foot of the

362

ROiri'E 129. — ST. LUC TO EVOLENA.

Sect. II.

Glacier de Torrent in <!) hrs. by the
Col de Sorrelx>is f 9259 ft.)« commaiidiog
a magnificent view. Thence Evolena
may be reached by the Col de Tor-
rent in 5} hrs. more.

In crossing the Col de Sorrebois from
Zinal, sharp and steep zigzags lead up
the face of the cliff to the only prac-
ticable place. Thence the path winds
1. along its brow to extensive chalets ;
a small lake is skirted, and rough up-
land paj^tnres are crossed. The Col
lies 1. of the Come de Sorrebois. The
view comprises the Weiisshorn, stand-
ing without a rival. The descent is
steep, bat the path is improved. The
glacier stream in tbe Val de Torrent
is crossed by a bridge, and the
massive Glacier de Moiry, which
feeds it, fills the head of tbe valley.
Hence Cremenz in 4 m., and thence
St. Luc may be reached by turning
down the valley to the rt., or the
opposite side of the valley may be
climbed to the Col de Torrent.

It is 2) hrs. to Cremenz, thence
1} up the Torrent valley to the
bridge, where the route over the Col
de Sorrebois falls in. Then ascend by
tiie side of a mountain stream, with
grand view of the Moiry glacier ; a
small lake is left on the 1. in wild
rock-strewn scenery. The Col de
Torrent (9590 ft.) is marked by a
cross. Here is an extensive view of
the vast snow-fields to the S., and of a
range of snow-mts. from the Arolla
to the Velan. [The Sassaneire may
be easily ascended.] This was the
scene of a foul murder on July 23,
1863. Herr Quesnel, an Hanoverian
lawyer of eminence, was the victim.
The assassin was a well-known mauvais
sujetj a Swi^s Valaisian, who had once
served in the Neapolitan army, and,
having latterly escaped from an im-
prisonment for forgery, had taken to
the hills to avoid capture. Here he
was communicated with by his brother.
Hearing that Herr Quesnel was about
to cross the pass with a single guide,
he built a screen of stones by the side
of the cross, and awaited them gun
in hand. As the travellers mounted
the zigzags the guide caught sight of
^he screen. He picked up ^ buUet

and a powder-flask that had been
dropped, and expressed some dis-
quietude. However, they continued
to climb to within 20 paces of the
top, when the assassin began to fire.
The guide fell severely wounded at
once. Herr Quesnel, also wounded,
turned and ran down hill, but -was
pursued and overtaken by the mur-
derer, who shot him dead. The
murderer then remounted to the
wounded guide, to despatch him, but
was turned from his purpose by
the man*s entreaties. He even bound
up his wounds, and helped him over
the col, where he left him. Here
some shepherds found him in a
miserable state, and took him to Cre-
menz. The murderer was ultimately
captured ; but while being transferred
to Heme, in charge of 2 old gen-
darmes, by way of the Simmenthal, he
made a sudden dash across the Sim-
men, a little below Erlenbach, and
wholly escaped. The murderer and
his brother were the only persons
found implicated in the crime. The
gendarmes were imprisoned for their
carelessness.

St. Lug to Evolena,

The main stream is crossed im-
mediately below Vissoye, and the
track is well marked for some distance
beyond the hamlet of Cremenz, when
it becomes less distinct, being merged
in cattle-tracks. There are three
passes from the Val de Torrent into
the Val d'£rin, all of about the same
height.

(1) The Pasde Torrent, 8 hrs. distant
from St. Luc. It is easily passable by
travellers on horseback.

(2) Pasde Lona{\0 hrs.). Cremenz
is reached in 2 hrs. from St. Luc; thence
4 hrs. to the Col de Lona (8930 ft.),
between the Sassani^re (10,690 ft.)
and the Bee de Bossons (10,370 ft.).
The view from either is magnificent ;
the former is more easily climbed
from tbe side of the Col de Torrent,
2} hrs. down from the Col to Eisen,
and thence 1} up the valley to Evo-
lena (or 3 hrs, down th^ valley to
Sion).

Pied' Sf Savoy. boutb 131. — aosta to evolena.

363

(3) In fine weather it is well worth
while to choose that oearest to the
Glacier de Torrent, called Col de
Breona, on account of the views to the
southward atd westward, which mast
be magnificent. This course would
increase the length of the day*s walk
by about 2 hrs.

Evolena (very good Inn, Dent
Blanche), a spot which, from the
beauty and grandeur of the neigh-
bouring scenery, will not fail to attract
manj tourists (see Bte. 131). At
XJseigne, about 3 hrs. from Evolena,
are some remarkable Earth Pyramids,
or pinnacles of gravel, from 50 to
200 fl. in height, each of them capped
with a covering of turf or stone.

EOUTE 131.

AOSTA TO EVOLENA AND 8I0N, BT THE
VALPELUNA AND OOL DE COLLON.

^ An extremely interesting expedi-
tion over a high and difficult pass.
The natives of Valpellina are shy and
inhospitable, refusing to strangers not
only the shelter of their houses, but
even food and refreshment. The cure
of fiiona should be sought for by any
one seeking shelter in the middle por-
tion of the valley. Valpellina in the
upper part is very grand.

The way follows the St Bernard
(Bte. 135) for a short distance; then
turning downwards, crosses the St.
Hemy branch of the river Buttier,
near its junction with the Valpellino
branch, a verv beautiful spot, and pro-
ceeds througn rich fields to the village
of Vtdpellino^ 2^ hours. Here the val-
ley narrows, and the asoent becomes
rapid. Passing the village of Oyace,
picturesquely situated on a high bar-
rier of rock which crosses the valley
(1 hour 40 minutes), you reach in
m^other hour ^iona^ and in 2:^ hours

more the chalets of Prerayen: total
from Aosta, 7} hours of rapid ascent.
Cultivation extends hieh up the val-
ley, which lies exposed to the after-
noon sun, and is very hot. There is
a good horse-road to Preraven, where
the chalets afford somewhat better
quarters than most of those in Pied-
mont. There is no inn anywhere in
the Valpelline, but the cure of Biona
will receive travellers. Be cautious
about engaging guides in this valley. ;

The head of the valley is bounded
by a very grand chain of snowy
mountains, branching from the main
chain at the Dent d'Erin, and
separating the Valpelline and Val
Tournanche. [Prom a little below
Prerayen there is a pass leading to
Val Tournanche (Bte. 128) in about
6 hrs. The ascent is very steep but
not dangerous, and the views very fine.
Another pass more to the N. is said
to lead to Breuil. From Biona there is
a high glacier pass, the Col de Crite
Siohe, leading to the Val de Bagnes.
On the S. side of the valley from below
Prerayen there is also a pass leading
by the Val St. Bartelemi to the V^
d'Aosta» between Aosta and Ch&tillon.
See Bte. 134.]

In ascending to the Col de CoUon,
the way lies up a steep lateral valley,
which joins the main stream a little
below Prerayen. It is nearly an
hour's walk to the foot of the gpreat
moraine. The glacier has retreated
from it a good half-mile during^ the
last thirty years; on the side ofBvo-
lena, on the contrary, the ice has
not diminished. There are two prac-
ticable routes to the upper plateau
of the glacier; one over rocks, which
Professor Forbes took in 1842, usually
the preferable course, the other follow-
ing the bottom of the vaUey to the
foot of the glacier, which is to be
mounted by climbing steep slopes of
frozen snow, not without difiiculty.
These being surmounted, a broad plain
and two or three long slopes lead to
the CoL The glacier on this side does
not seem dangerous.

« The height of the Col, by Pro-
fessor Forbes*s measurement, is 10,833
English feet. To the left is a crest of

364

ROUTE 132. — ^EVOLENA TO ZERMATT.

Sect. II.

rocks, in a cleft of which is stuck a
small iron cross, dated 1754. A hard
yamish of rust is formed on it, which
seems to protect the metal from fur-
ther decay. The view from the Col is
very grand. No distance, however,
is visible; nothing but spires of rock
and swells of snow.

** The descent towards Evolena is
more dangerous, the glacier, which on
this side is called Arolla, being much
more extensive, and more crevassed.
Some years ago a party of villagers
from Evolena being overtaken by the
tourmente on the upper part of the
glacier, 3 of them were lost. Pro-
fessor Forbes in crossing this pass
found the skeleton of one. After
descending direct from the Col for
some distance, it is necessary to keep
to the rt or £. side of the glacier and
take to the rocks, in order to avoid a
precipitous ice-fall which is quite im-
passable. The descent over steep
rocks and snow requires caution. At
the foot of this descent you return to
the glacier, here free from snow, and
leaning to the 1., finally leave it close
to its foot. In a favourable state of
the glacier it takes 4 hrs. to ascend
from Frerayen, and 2^ hrs. to de-
scend to the foot of the glacier.
The valley as we descend is close
and winding, so that no distant views
can be had; but it is of the grandest
character.

" The lofty jagged rid^ to the east,
which divides the glacier of Arolla
from that of Ferpecle, is called by
Professor Forbes the Dents des Bou-
quetins. [To the west, another very
grand glacier descends from the other
side of the Mont Collon, but it is
doubted whether the ridge can be
crossed which divides it from the Cher-
montane glacier at the head of the
Val de Bagnes.] There is a chUet
near the foot of the glacier, where it is
possible to pass the night From the
foot of the glacier to Evolena is about
4 hours of very grand and beautiful
scenery. Total ftom Frerayen to
Evolena, about 10^ to 11 hrs.

Evolena {Irm: Hdtel de la Pent
^Iftficl^e, very gopd),

Many interesting excursions may
be made from hence, some of which
are noticed in Rte. 129. The scenery
of the Vol d^Ertn, or Vol d'Herens^ u
very beautiful; but until the new Irni
was opened at Evolena no decent
lodging was to be found in the yalley.
It is a walk of 6 hrs. from Evolena to
Sion, fully 7 ascending the valley
from Sion. 2 hrs. from Evolena is
the fine waterfall of la Villetta. The
traveller may here choose between
a path on the rt. bank of the
Borgne, through Trogne 1 hr.. Mage
1 hr. 35 min., Bramois 1 hr. 35 min.,
Sion 50 min.; or he may cross the
torrent and follow its 1. bank to
Uaeignef a little below which the main
stream of the Bofgne is joined by the
Dixence flowing from the Vol cTHe-
remence^ a wild and unfrequented val-
ley. [About 3 hrs. above Useigne
are the chalets of Mirtbi, from whence
it is possible to return to Evolena by
the Col de Maigne in 6 hrs. At the
head of the Val d'Heremence is a
difficult glacier pass, the Col du Mont
Eouge, leading to the head of the Val
de Bagnes. That pass may also be
reached, by crossing the intermediate
ridge, from the chuets near the foot
of the glacier of Arolla.] From the
village of Herememce, just below the
fork of the valley, it is a walk of 2\
hrs. to Sion. (See Rte. 56.)

ROUTE 132.

EVOLENA TO ZEBHATT. COL D*ERIN.

Time, when the snow is in good
order, 12 hrs., excluding stoppages.
It might take much more. It woald
be imprudent to allow less than 16
hrs., including necessary halts. It
is posi|ible to p^ss the night at the

Jpzeci^' St Savoy,

ROTTTE 132. — OOL d'eEIN*

86S

cliaiets of Abricolla, and this has
hitherto been the usual practice
among the few mountaineers who
have followed the footsteps of Pro-
fessor Forbes in this very grand but
laborious expedition. It is a ques-
tion Mrhether, with a moonlight night,
it -would not be better to start from
the comfortable inn at Evolena about
2 A.M., halting for breakfast at the
ch&lets, where milk can be obtained.
An hour above Evolena the valley
forks into two branches; the one
leading to the glacier of Arolla and
Col de Collon, l£e other to the glacier
of Perpecle and Col d*Erin, as
Forbes nas called it; the pass being
apparently without a name in the
country. The scenery of the latter
branch is even finer than that of the
former. From the hamlet of Haudr-
eretf near the junction, to the foot of
the glacier, there is a rapid ascent.
The termination of the glacier is re-
markably fine. The ice is pure, and
very high, ending on one side in a
vertical section cresting a precipice;
on the other sweeping grandly over
it; and the effect is much increased by
the near neighbourhood of fine larches.
From hence a rapid ascent, skirt-
ing deep precipices, leads to the
clmlets o£ AbricoUct, distant about 3
hours from Evolena. They are rude
and more dirty than is usual in Swit-
zerland; and the traveller who means
to sleep at them should take up straw
from below. The view from these
heights is extremely fine.

"Started from Abricolla at half-
past four: and by the advice of one of
the Fulloniers, who accompanied us
part of the way, we kept gradually as-
cending along the mountain side, in>
stead of descending, as Forbes had
done, to the glacier— a depth of seve-
ral hundred feet perpendicular. In
about an hour we reached the glacier,
which was then a dazzling sheet of
snow, hard frozen, and inclmed at an
angle which rendered great caution
necessary in traversing it. Less than
an hour brought us to the edge of a
precipice, opposite to a bare rock in
the middle of the ice, called Motta
Kotta. Here the sun had melted out

space enough just to form a narrow,
slippery, and dangerous path, along
which we proceeded eastward, shoul-
dering the ice on one side, and with
the deep precipice on the other. At
the end of it we dismissed Fullonier,
having passed the difficulties on this
side of the passage. From hence to
the level of Motta Botta is a succes-
sion of slopes, free from danger, and
from that level an immense undulatine
snow plain extends to the Col, which
lies to the right of a slightly elevated
point, called by Professor Forbes the
Stockhom, the height of which he
makes 11,760 feet, 600 feet higher
than the Col du Geant. We reached
it in 3 h. 20 m. from the chalets of
Abricolla; 6-} hrs. from Evolena, hav-
ing gained an hour on Professor
Forbes by the new route. His route
lay at the foot of the precipice along
the top of which we had passed.
(According to the measurements
executed for the Swiss Federal map,
the height of the Col is 11,408 Eng.
ft., or 352 ft. less than that given by
Professor Forbes. The name Stock-
hom is applied by Studer to the rocks
E. of the Col rising in the midst of
the Zmutt Glacier.)

** The Col is formed by a ridge ex-
tending from the Dent Blanche (which
lies between the valleys of Anniviers
and of Zmutt) to the main chain be-
tween the Dent d*Erin and the Mont
Collon. It thus encloses the great
glacier of Zmutt, which it separates
from the glacier of Ferpecle. Pro-
fessor Forbes rates the view above any
that he had seen in the higher Alps,
even above that from the Col du
Geant The spectator is centrally

S laced between the Cervin, the Dent
'Erin, and the Dent Blanche, with
the whole chain of Monte Hosa in full
view. To these is to be added the
Strahlhorn, between which and Monte
Bosa the pass of the Weissthor is
seen, at the same, or a higher, level on
which he stands. None of these moun-
tains is less than.14,000 feet high.

** There are two possible descents;
one down the face of the cliff, a little
W. of the Stockhom, which Professor
Forbes tried in 1842 ; and failed to

366

ROUTES 134. — TURIN tO COURMAYE0R*

Sect. IL

achieve, owinp to a precipice of some
30 feet, next trie ice, which could not
be passed. He was therefore driven
to take the waywhich I followed, stiU
further to the w ., which, though in-
volving a considerable circuit, I should
think always preferable, unless the
glacier below were in a very danger-
ous state. The descent is shorter,
and less rapid, and the rocks are
masked by slopes of snow, which
however are steep enough to present
dangers of their own. The upper
basin of the Zmutt glacier being thus
reached, a black blunt point m the
chain of rocks which holds up this
upper glacier serves for landmark:
but as ine ice is much crevassed, there
is many a circuit to be made; and
the passage took a good hour. The
next descent is over a slope of rocks,
ending, within 100 ft. of the bottom,
in a precipice, down which it is pos-
sible to descend by a very steep cou-
loir, when the glacier, which is here
considerably inclined, is in too bad a
state to traverse higher up. In 1843
the quantity of snow rendered it pos-
sible to reach and traverse the lower
glacier to the W. of the couloir; and
we struck across in the direction of
Mont Cervin, and reached the lateral
moraine at 1 2 h. 1 5 m., having left the
Col at 8 h. 80 m. Another hour brought
us off the ice; and 1} hour more to

Zermatt (Rte, 127).

In 1853 an English traveller crossed
this pass from Zermatt alone. He
did so without accident, though it was

fenerally believed by the natives that
e must have perished in the attempt.
Every man must be supposed the best
judge of the value of his own neck,
but it should be generally understood
that such an exploit is a proof, not of
courage, but of ignorance or fool-
hardiness. No amount of skill or
experience can secure a traveller
against the common accident of a
snow-bridge giving way, against which
the rope affords effectual security, but
which involves all but certain destruc-
tion to the solitary traveller.

ROUTE 134.

TUBIN TO AOSTA AND COUBMATEUS, BY
rVREA.— BIELLA. — ^THE VAL D'aOSTA.

Tarin.
ChivftBBo
Ivrea

KiL Eng. m.

}«^{S =

Donas . .
CbfttiUon .
Ao6ta . .
Courmayenr

20
34
24

14
20

12
15
16
25

The journey from Courmayeur to
Turin may be made in 1 ^ day, sleep-
ing at Aosta, or in 1 very long day.

!Aai7cray$, constructed by English en-
gineers, fipom Turin to Ivrea; and a
continuation to Aosta and even a tun-
nel to Martigny have been talked of.

At Chwasao Junct. Stat., a town of
some 8000 Inhab., the main line from
Turin to Novara is left, and a branch
goes to

Caluso Stat. Omnibuses to the
neighbouring towns meet the trains.

|Trom Caluso an excursion may be
msule to Biella (^Inns: Corona, best;
Testa), a town situated on the Cervo,
one of the affluents of the Sesia, now
the terminus of a branch Rly. from
Turin. Population about 9000. It
has some trifling manufactories of

Eaper, common woollen goods, and
ats. Obs. The Ch. of SL Sebastian :
the pillars dividing nave from aisles
seem to be Ifoman, and the vaulted
roof is elegantly painted.

The sanctuary of Notre Dame
(TOropa, 6 m. distant, by a steep but
good carriage-road, is an object of
attraction, which brings crowds of
pilgrims to offer their devotions to
an image, one of the thousand black
specimens of bad carving, which,
under the name of Our Lady, is
worshipped for its miracle-working

Eowers: that of Oropa is said to have
een carved by Saint Luke, who is
made a sculptor as well as a painter,
and is stated to have been brought by
St. Eusebius from Syria, and pre-
served by him in the then wild and

Pted^' ^ Sam/. itoUTE 134. — ivrea. K)Nt sT. martik.

36?

desert mountain of Oropa. A series
of steep toumiqaets leads to the
Church dedicated to the Virgin^ which is
a fine structure of the 14th and 15th
centuries. Painting and sculpture
have adorned and enriched it; and
among the artists employed are
found the names of Gaudenzio Ferrari
and Zuino, At the angles, in the zig-
zag ascent to the church, there are
erected more than twenty-fourchapels,
dedicated to the Virgin, and named
after some erent in her life, as, the
Chapel or Oratory of the Annuncia-
tion— of the Purification— of the As-
sumption, &c., or to some Komish saint.
BaUwaif from BieUa to Turin, 84 kil.
(51 miles). It joins the line from
Novara at Santhili, 19 m. distant, and
reaches Turin in 2 hrs. 50 min. Biella
is in the Canaioesey a district devoted
to the growing of hemp.]

V<d d'Aosta — Ivrea to Courmayeur, —
No good Inns below Aosta, but Kosa
Bossa and Baths of St. Vincent.

Ivrea {Inns : H. de TEurope, cuisine
fair; many complaints of bad treat-
ment and extortionate charges ; —
lion d'Or) is a large waUed town at
the entrance of the Val d'Aosta.
The entrance is highly picturesque,
across the deep bed of the Doire,
which flows immediately below the
Porte de Turin, It contains about
8000 Inhab. Here large markets are
held, to which cheese and other pas-
toral produce of the Alps are brought.
It is also a depot for the iron which
is obtained near Cogne, and from
other mines worked in the valley.
Here also some cotton'works have been
established.

Here is a picturesque and interest-
ing massive old Castle, degraded into
ft prison, and disfigured with modern
^dows, &C. The battlements and
machicolations of two of its towers
i^main. These, and the old walls
from many points of view, furnish

food materials for the sketch-book
he smaU isolated hills scattered
. along the sides of the stream, as out-
posts of the Alps, and often crowned
by some crumb of a wall of a feudal
castle, are very picturesque seen over
the thicket of rich vegetation, and

backed by the Alps. This town, or
city, as it is called — as the seat of
a bishop — is the southern gate to
the Val d'Aosta. It is of great
antiquity, and mentioned by many
ancient authors under the name of
Eporedia, Strabo says that here the
unfortunate Salassi, made prisoners
by Terentius Varro, when these brave
people of the Val d* Aosta were sub-
du^, were sold as slaves by public
auction to the number of 36,000. The
Marquis of Ivrea was in the middle
ages a powerful potentate.

The rly. ends at Ivrea, but there is
a good carriage-road as far as Cour-
mayeur.

DiliyenceSf very slow but cheap, to
Aosta, Pre St. Didier, and Cour-
mayeur.

The Val d' Aosta is one of the most
beautiful in the Alps, and well merits
exploring. Yet from Ivrea ( inclusive)
to Courmayeur it has hardly one
tolerable Inn, excepting Tairraz's ex-
cellent H. de Mt. Blanc at ^osta.

On leaviug Ivrea, on the rt. is
a vast ridge of alluvium, the Monte
Bolegno, which stretches into the
plains. The road ascends on the left
bank of the Doire, passes below the
old Castle of Montalto, well preserved
with its towers and battlements, and
picturesque in its form, and continues
through the rich broad valley of the
Doire — ^broad enough to constitute a
part of the plain, for at Settimo Vit-
tone, 3i leagues, the ascent has been
so gradual as scarcely to have been
perceived. Nor is it, m flEu^t, until the
traveller reaches

Pont St. Martin (Inn: Rosa Rossa,
fair) that he may be said to have fairly
entered this valley of the Alps.

The situation of this village is strik-
ingly fine at the entrance to the Val
de Lys, stretching up to the foot of
the glaciers of Monte Rosa (Rte. 124),
which will well repay the explorer.

The lofty arch which here spans
the torrent of the Lys (about 20 yards
higher than the new bridge) is one of
the finest Roman works of its class in
the valley : it now serves to commu-
nicate with the Val de Vallese, and
is a striking object. The road to

868

ROUTE 134.— FOEt fiAHD. VERftfet*

Sect. II.

Aosta is carried over a modern
bridge. Above St. Martin are ruins
of a large Castle,

After crossing the Lys at a short
distance from its confloeniBe with the
Doire, the road ascends to

Donas, where a Roman work —
a pierced rock — is passed through,
and near to it is a Roman milestone
cut in the rock, noting xxxii. MP.
A tolerable vme is grown at Donas.

From Donas the road ascends ab-
ruptly for a short distance, and close
to the Doire, which it steeply over-
hangs, to

Fort Bard {Inn: Sole, poor and
dirty), celebrated for the temporary
check of 8 days which it gave to
the advance of the French army
under Buonaparte, in 1800. At
that time the only road ran through
the town under the fort. It was
garrisoned by only 400 Austrians, ^et
such was the strength of the position
that Buonaparte almost despaired of
carrying it, and a few days more
must have starved his army into a
retreat. By a gallant manoeuvre, how-
ever, in the efficient placement of a
single gun, above the precipices of
the Mont Albaredo, which overhangs
Bard, the French checked the battery
which covered the approach to the
town, and the army passed by night,
dragging their guns through the
street laid with straw to prevent the
noise alarming the garrison, under
the grenades and pots de feu thrown
by the fort. Another gun was raised
to a belfry which commanded the
gate of the fort ; and the Austrians,
fearing an assault, surrendered. Upon
such slight occurrences the fete of
Europe turned. As the French army
would have devoured all the supply
of the Val d' Aosta in a few days, it
must have retreated; and the battle
of Marengo, one of the most brilliant
events of French history, would not
have been fought. The fort has been
greatly strengthened, and it is now
considered impregnable.

The modern road skirts round the
other side of the rock on which the Fort
stands, avoiding the steep and nar-
row street of ^d. [1. opens out the

valley of Champorcher^ whence a path
leads, by the village of Pont Bosel, to
the CM de Champorcher in 6 hrs., and by
this pass and the valley of the Soanna
to Ponte in the Val d'Qrca. (Rte. 1 46.)
From the chapel of Notre Dame de la
Netge, at the head of the valley, there
is a pass direct to Cogne, which may be
reached in 10 hrs. from Fort Bard. J

The view looking back upon Fort
Bard is a perfect picture, not to be
surpassed in its kind.

Abov^e Bard the main valley is nar-
row, and offers little variety in ascend-
ing by the deep and rapid course of the
Doire to

Verrex (Inn : Ecu de France — extor-
tion; Couronne), 2i leagues from Pont
St. Martin, situated at the entrance to
the Val Challant (Rte. 125). Here
many improvements have been made,
especially in the construction of a new
bridge and many new houses.

Here is a large square keep of the
old Castle, which overhangs the Val
Challant. It is a picturesque object
from below, and the scenes from it are
worth a scramble to the ruins. Here
is also a convent of Augastines.

Above Verrex the valley widens,
and the little plain of the Doire
shows the violence of the torrent in
the sands and rocks left by it in the
spring.

About IJ league beyond Verrex
the road enters upon one of the most
remarkable scenes in the valley — a
deep ravine, through which the Doire
has cut its way, or found in such a
gulf its natural channeL The road
ascends steeply on the left of the
river, and is cut out of the rock, in
some places overhanging the foaming
torrent. These rocks arc surmounted
by the ruins of the Casile of St, Ger-
main, placed so as effectually to com-
mand the pass.

The road cut out in so remarkable
a way was probably a Roman work,
though a modem inscribed tablet
denies them the credit. It was re-
paired by the inhabitants of Aosts.
This defile is called the pass of Mmt
Jovet — the wine in its neighbourhood
is celebrated. From the bead of the
pass the view down the valley is rery

jPied^ ^ Savoy, ROUTE 134. — chatillon. aosta.

369

striking. Immediately above it the
finest part of the Yal a Aosta extends
to the Cite, as Aosta is called.

^Nothing can exceed the beauty and
richness of the scenery, and the mag-
nificent character of the foliage; the
Tiralnut and chestnut trees are cele-
brated for their grandeur and pictu-
res queness.

Sefore arriving at St. Vincent, a
singular bridge over a deep ravine is
crossed. It is called the Font des
Sarasins, and by antiquaries is recog-
nised as a Roman work. From its
parapet one of the most beautiful
scenes in the valley is presented on
looking up towards Chatillon, includ-
ing among its objects the Castle
d'Usselle and other ruins. Not far
from this bridge is the agreeable vil-
lage of

St. Vincent (^Tnns: Ecu de France;
at the Succursale or private establish-
ment of the Lion d'Or good and clean
accommodation far better than at
Chatillon.) Here is a Bath-house sup-
plied from a mineral spring in the
Forest above. ^ an hour's walk higher
up is

Chatillon (^Inns: none good; Palais
Boyal; Lion d'Or). The bridges are
the only remarkable objects here, but
there are pleasant walks and several
chateaux in the neighbourhood. That
over which the hien road now passes
is a very fine smgle arch, thrown
across a aeep gul£ From it are seen,
farther down the torrent, the remains
of a Roman bridge^ also a single, and
still an entire arch ; and immediately
orerit another bridge, now superseded.
In the depth of the gulf, and a little
up the stream, are forges, strangely
placed there, for the sake of the water-
power in working the tilts; a wild
path leads down to them, and the
view of the bridges from the bottom
of the ravine forms one of the most
striking scenes in the valley.

Here the ValTournanche opens out,
up which runs the path to the Pass of
St. Th^odule (Rte. 128) 14 hrs.

Above Chatillon the same fine rich
character of scenery prevails, only in-
terrupted by the occasional traces of
destruction left by the torrents which
\8u:%tz.'\

in the spring rush down from the
lateral valleys into the Doire.

About a league above Chatillon is
the village of Chambave, celebrated
for its wine, one of the richest and
most recherche in Piedmont. The
wine of the Yal d' Aosta has a great
reputation, and the vine is cultivated
on the mountain sides to an elevation
of 3000 ft. above the level of the sea.
In the valley, hemp, Indian com, and
fruit-trees fill the plain like a vast
garden.

Nuz^ a poor village with the ruins
of a chateau, is nearly half-way be-
tween Chatillon and Aosta. At the
entrance of the Yal de St. Barthe-
lemi is the picturesque castle of Fenis.

[Three passes lead from the Val de
St, Barthel^mi to the Yal Pellina.
The least difficult is the Col de Ves-
soney, leading to Oyace (Rte. 131).
An easier pass, called the FenStre de
St. Barthele'mi, goes from the village
of the same name to Antcy in the
Yal Tournanche. There is no Inn,
but the cure of St Barthelemi will
receive strangers. The Piedmontese
government-map is quite useless in
this district.]

Near St. Marcel are copper-mines,
and a remarkable fountain, called
Fontaine Bleue, of blue water, im-
pregnated with copper.

On the approach to Aosta the
Chateau Quart is seen placed hi&;h on
the mountain side; a path leads up
to it from near Yillefranche, and
down on the other side of its glen
towards Aosta, so that a visit to it
requires no retracing of steps, and
the beautiful scenes presented in the
ascent and at the chateau, which is
now a Hospital, repay the trouble of
climbing thither. Little more than a
league further up the valley is

Aosta (/ww; H.du Mont Blanc, well
kept by J. Tairraz best in Val d' Aosta,
good; Couronne (Post), improved ; Ecu
du Yalais, in the Town-hall, well
spoken of)» a city of 7700 Inhab. ; of
small importance in trade, wealth, or
population, but attractive to a stranger,
as a genuine Italian town of old houses,

^iedf' i* Savoy.

l>]road eayes, picturesque but dilapi-
dated buildings, and lazy lounging
population. Its situation is indeed strik-
ing', near the confluence of the Buttier
and the Doire, in a deep rich valley,
surrounded by lofty and snow-capped
mountains, which peer down into its
squares and streets. Aosta, the Au-
gust(\ Proctoria of the Roman itinera-
ries, claims a high antiquity. It was
known under the name of Uorddle, as
the chief city of the Salassi: its his-
tory earlier than its conquest by Te-
rentius Yarro, a general of Augustus,
is fabulous. By the army of the
emperor it was taken 28 years be-
fore the Christian era, and its in-
habitants reduced to miserable cap-
tivity. Augustus rebuilt the city,
g^ave his own name to it, and esta-
blished there 3000 soldiers from the
Praetorian cohorts. The remains of
large public buildings attest its im-
portance at that time, and though
much inferior in beauty and extent to
those of the S. of France, wiU yet be
viewed with interest.

In the main street at the E. en-
trance of the town is a Triumphal arch,
erected in honour of Augustus, in
tolerable preservation, decorated with
10 Corinthian pillars, covered with a
modem roof, adorned with green and
gold weathercocks. This is one of
the finest of the remains.

About 200 yards to the E. of the
arch, in a narrow street, is a Koman
bridge, which once spanned the But-
tier, though now 100 yards E. of it.
It is buried to a considerable depth
by soiL A conduit of water runs
under it, and by its side a path;
so that you can walk under the arch,
which is a fine piece of masonry.
In the convent-garden of St. Joseph
are the ruins of a Basilica or Praetorian
palace, towers, walls, and fragments
of unknown former appropriation,
now serving only to perplex anti-
quaries. The plan of Aosta, like
that of other Roman cities, was a
square, and the chief streets crossed
in the centre. The triumphal arch
stood outside of the town, in front
of the chief gateway. This, the
ancient Porta Prsetoria, now called
iSwitz.']

ROUTE IS^.*— AOSTA.

871

Forte de la Trinity, is still in good
preservation, though much of the cas-
mg of hewn stone which covered it
has been removed. It has two fa-
cades, with a quadrangle between
them, each facade composed of three
arches — that m the centre is much
the largest.

The Roman voallsj flanked with
towers, are most accessible and in
best preservation on the S. side of
the town.

There are 2 curious medisBval towers,
Porte de Bramafam and Tour duLepreux.
The latter is the scene of Xavier de
Maistre*s well-known tale.

On the N. of the main street is the
Cathedral, modem, and covered with
paint and whitewash. The woodwork
of the stalls in the choir is said to be of
the 14th cent. See monuments of
Duke Thomas of Savoy, o^ several
bishops; and in the Tresor, antique
plate, shrines, diptychs. On the N.
side of the ch. is a Romanesque
cloister, with the names of its
founders worked in the capitals of
the pillars.

E. of the cathedral is the more
curious ch. of St, Ours, with a very
old crypt under the choir. On the
S. side of the ch. is another Roma-
nesque cloister of very early date;
the carving of the capitals is remark-
able.

Aosta has been much improved
since 1854, the chief square is en-
larged, and there is much new and
handsome building, a Hdtel de Ville,
&c., which is the head-quarters of the
Italian Club Alpino, to which members
of foreign clubs are welcomed. It is
the seat of a bishop. A military
commandant is also stationed here.

Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury
in the 1 1 th century, was bom at Aosta,
and is buried in the cathedral. An
inscribed stone records the flight of
Calvin from Aosta, 1541.

St. Bernard, whose name is im-
mortally associated with the moun-
tain pass from the valley of the Rhone
to the valley of the Doire, was arch-
deacon of Aosta; and his knowledge,
from his situation, of the exposure
and sufferings of those who traversed

392

feOUTE 134. — ^AOSTA.

Secti It,

these regions, led to his establishment
of the celebrated hospice, upon the
permanent footing it has since held.

[The Becca di Nona, 10,360 ft,
8470 ft. above the city, is a peak nearly
S. of Aosta, and commands a magni-
ficent view of the Alps from Mont
Blanc to M. Rosa. The ascent can
be accomplished on mules the whole
way in 6 hrs. Provisions must be
taken. Some experienced mountaineers
are inclined to give the first place
among the panoramic views or the
Alps to that from the Becca di Nona.

After crossing the Doire the ascent
begins stiffly to Charvensod^ whence
there is a fine view of Aosta, with Mont
Velan and Combin as background;
soon after Monte Rosa, and still
later the Matterhom, come into sight.
From Charvensod for 2^ or 3 hrs. the
path lies through beautiful woods and
meadows, with clear streams and fine
waterfalls, and, independently of the
ascent, forms a delightful walk. From
the topmost pastures the path may be
easily lost, as it passes into the ravine
between the Becca and Mont Emilius,
as if the latter were the object of
ascent; but it is well worth while to
follow it, as the direct ascent, though
shorter, is very hard work. 6 hrs.
are required to the summit; the de-
scent may be made in 4.

The view is glorious — the whole of
the Mont Blanc ranee, the Velan,
Combin, and mountams of the Val
Fellina, joining on to the Weisshom,
Dent Blanche, Mischabel, Matter-
horn, Monte Rosa, and to the S. the
Mont Paradis, Qrivola, &c. &c. A
panoramic view from the top and full
account has been published by M.
Carrel at Aosta.1

Excursion to tne Pont d*Ael and
Roman Arch, at entrance of Val de
Cogne, may be made (2^ hrs. walk ,
by those who do not explore that
valley to its head. Carriage to Aima-
vDle (Rte. 146).

The inhabitants of the Pays d* Aosta
speak a barbarous patois, but most of
them can speak French more or less,
and French is the official language of
theprovince of Aosta.

Tbe beautiful valley of Aosta is

afflicted with cretinism and goitre
more perhaps than any other in
Piedmont. The peasantry appear a
squalid and filthy race, generally
stunted and diseased. Of the whole
population in the neighbourhood of
Aosta, 1 in 50 is a cretin ; and above
half are more or less geltred. Scnne of
these are horrid objects, with tamours
as large as their heads appended to
their throats.

The extreme filth of the houses,
villages, and persons of the peasantry
would be sufficient to account for any
amount of disease ; but it is remark*
able that in the spots they select these
dreadful maladies seem to be capri-
cious. At St Vincent they prevail ;
atCh&tillon, at Courmayeur, and at La
Tuiile they are almost unknown ; and
at Ivrogne and Arvier they are most
prevalent

N.B. From Aosta down to Jvrea
(inclusive), there is scarce an inn fit to
sleep in, owing to the filthy state of
the beds.

Diligences to Ivrea and Pr€ St.
Didier daily.

On leaviue Aosta to ascend the
valley, the drive for about 4 m. lies
across the open plain, and through
scenes of its greatest richness in vege-
tation. At this distance from Aosta
the road parses beneath the ch&teaa
Sarra, an unpicturesque structure;
nearly opposite to it, on the other side
of the valley, is a singular modem
building, the chateau of Aimaviile,
triangular in plan, with a turret at
each anele, situated on a knoll in &
commanding posidon.

At St, Pierre there is one of the
most picturesque chateaux in the
valley. A fine scene is presented in
the approach to Villenenve, where
the vast rock above the town is sur-
rounded bv the Ch&tel d' Argent,
backed by the snowy Alps at the head
of Uie Val Savaranche. About a mik
fi*om St Pierre the road turns towardf
the river, which it crosses by a stone
bridge to reach the little town of

Villeneuvef where there is nothing
of interest, and where there is neither
decent inn nor car. Near this the
valleys of Sayaranche and Rh^et

Pied- ^ Batxyg. ftOttfE 134 — tA SAltE. COtTEMAYEtJR.

373

open toffetfaer from the S. into the
▼alley of the Doire. Above VilleneuTe
the Talley narrows and becomes much
more wooded, the walnut-trees form-
ing in some places almost a forest,
especially near

Arwer^ about 4 m. above Villeneuve.
Here the vineyards are celebrated,
every slope being terraced and vines
planted.

A bridge is thrown over the torrent
of the Grisanche, which here flows
into the Doire from the Val Gri-
sanche on the S., and the new road
fails into the old road above it, and
is continued to Pre St. Didier. The
portion of it which is cut out of Fort
Roc has also been widened, and
is now carried through the defile,
where it rises hundreds of feet
above the bed of the Doire, which
is seen foaming below. From the
snmmit of this gorge, Mont Blanc
at the head of the vsdley closes the
scene with its m'asses — a magnificent
barrier. The view is strikingly beau-
tiful. The road, thus carried ahmg
the precipice, crosses in some places
deep rifts in the mountain side ; over
these chasms drawbridges are thrown,
the removal of which would cut off all
communication by this road, and oblige
an army to make a considerable de-
tour in order to descend into the Val
d'Aosta. The pass is also closed by
. a gate, and enfiladed by a block-house
above.

From FcH Roc the road descends
. rapidly to the Doire, which it crosses
on a wooden bridge, and thence con-
tinues on the 1. bank to

la Salle^ a dirty narrow village,
in which, however, the name is pre-
served of the ancient people of this
▼alley, the Salassi : many traces of its
high antiquity have been found in and
aronnd. On a hill near La Salle are
the rains of an old feudal Castle,
' At the distance of a league from
Morgex the diligence takes a branch
road across the Doire to the village of

Pr^ St. Didier (Inns, all poor; Poste,
bad and dear)) situated in some beau-

tiful meadows, and commanding a fine
view of Mont Blanc.

[Here the ascent of the Little St.
Bernard bedns (Rte. 149.)]

Behind the village are some pret-
tily-placed baths, much frequented by
Italians during July and August.
The building and avenue to it are
pleasing. Beyond the baths a path
leads to the sources of the mineral
springs (temp. 92^) up a ravine
which will remind the visitor of
Pfeffers. Enormous precipices of bare
rock nearly close up the cleft in the
mountains down which the stream
from the Ruitor and Little St. Ber-
nard forces its way.

Good carriage-road from Pre St.
Didier, about 3 m. of ascent, to

Courmayeur^Fnns: H6tel Royal* best)
very good and comfortable ( Angelo
(improved), also good; H. de T Union)*
In the valley ^ mile above Cour-
mayeur is the H. du Mont Blanc»
smaller, less civilized, but finely situ'>
ated-^rather cheaper than the others^
At the H. Royal and the Angelo
visitors are taken en pension,

Courmayeur, situated at the head
of the Val d'Aosta, which is called
the Val d'Entreves, is a large village,
with many good houses, situated
4098 ft. above the sea, on an
eminence in the valley, near the
confluence of the two branches of
the Doire, which descend from
the Col Ferrex and the Col de la
Seigne, at the foot of the S. side of
Mont Blanc, to which it approximates
so nearly, that the glaciers and snowy
crests of the great chain appear to
hang over the valley. From the vil-
lage the summit of Mont Blanc is
concealed by the Mont Ch^tif, but
half an hour's walk discloses the
chain from the ** Monarch" to the
grand Jorasse. That part of the
chain seen from the village to close
the valley includes the remarkable
peak of the Geant, and the whole
course of the pass leading to Cha«
mouni by the Col de Geant is to be
traced, on the side of Piedmont, from
Courmayeur.

Chamois are to be found in the

T 2

394

EOUTE 134.— ASdENt OF THb: CHAMOtiT.

Sect. 11.

neighbouring mountains, and even
bouquetins or steinbocks are not
unknown. Late in the autumn ptar-
migan are abundant

Courmayeur is much resorted to in
summer by invalids, for the sake of its
mineral waters. The spring of La
Victoire is half a league to the S.W. ;
its waters are impregnated with car-
bonic acid gas, smphate of magnesia,
and a little iron, and have a tempera-
ture of about 54. The spring of La
Marguerite yaries a little in the pro-
portions of its components, but its
temperature is 12 degrees higher.
The Fiedmontese have great reliance
on the salutary effects of these mi-
neral springs, and the resort to them
brings together much agreeable Italian
society.

The baths of La Saxe are about
1 m. beyond the Tillage, and are
somewhat rough.

The guides and mules were placed in
1860 on the same footing as those at
Chamouni, except that, on payment
of a small fee, tne traveller is able to
select whom he pleases. The guide's
charges are 6 fr. for a day; 3 fir.
for J a day, viz. before or after 12
o'ctlock. Otto Bion and Valentine
Ray are 2 of the best. There is a
family of several brothers named
Proment, who are also good guides.

a. Ascent of the Cramont. — An ex-
cursion which no visitor to St. Didier
or Courmayeur should fail to make if
the weather be favourable, for no spot
in the Alps will afford him so fine a
view of Mont Blanc, or a more glorious
panorama.

From Courmayeur it is necessary
to go to Pr^ St. Didier, 1 hr., then
ascend by the road leading to the
Little St. Bernard (Rte. 149) for about
tl hr.; a path then strikes to the rt
amongst the larches, and ascends
throuerh them and past several clusters
of ch^ets for about 2 hrs. Mules can-
not go beyond the larches, and must
be left, and from this point there is
about 1^ hr.*s climb to the summit:
total, 5 hrs. from Courmayeur. There
is a more direct but diflicult and dis-
agreeable path for pedestrians.

The highest point of the Cramont

is the outer edge of it large slab or
flat mass of rock, sloping at an ang;'le of
20^ towards the S.; the upper end of
this mass actually overhangs the rocks
below, so that a stone dropped from
it would fall perpendicularly nondreds
of feet, and then striking the preci-
pitous sides of the mountain, would
bound into the abyss beneath, brokoi
into firag^ents. In this savi^ h<d-
low chamois are often seen.

Hence the whole of the enonnons
mass of Mont Blanc is open to the
observer: midway of its neigfat (for
the height of the Cramont is 904O ft.
and that of Mont Blanc 650O ft
above the peak of the Cramont),
from the peaks which bound the C^
de la Seigne to those of the Grand
Jorasse, every aiguille and glacier
through this vast Une of nearly- 30
miles IS seen, within an angle of 150^,
lying like a picture before the ob-
server from the Cramont. The depths
of the Allee Blanche are concealed
by some low intervening mountains,
which may be considered the western
bases of the Cramont.

Towards the E. the Yal d*Aosta
presents a beautiful portion of the
panorama. The mountains whkJi
bound it sweep down to the Doire,
and leave between them the chan-
nels which are the courses of its
affluents. In the valley the Doire
appears like a thread of silver. Par-
tner to the E., in the distant back*
ground, are the summits of Monte
Rosa and the Mont Cervin. IJook-
ing S.E., directly down the line of
ascent to the Cramont, the Camp of
Prince Thomas, and the table^hnad
above the precipices of the valley of
La Tuille, appear to be inunediatdiy
beneath. Above and beyond it lies
the enormous glacier of the Rnitoe,
one of the finest objects within the
view: this is connected with the gla-
ciers at the head of the valleys «f
Cogne, the Savaranche, and the Gii-
sanche.

Towards the S. is the pass aid

Elain of the Little St Bernard, guarded
y the Belvedere, the VaUaisan, and
the other mountains which bound that
pass*

• ^ Savoy. ROUTE 134. — coL de checruit.

376

towards the Great St. Bernard the
course may be traced of the path
-wliicli leads by the pass of the Serena
from the head of the valley of Aosta
to St..Bemy. The hospice cannot be
seen, but the Mont Velan and the
Oombin are seen beyond it.

Sanssure thus records his second
visit to the Cramont: — **Nous pass-
ames trois heures sur ce sommet ;
j'y en avois aussi passe trois 'dansmon
premier voyage; et ces six heures sont
certainement celles de ma vie dans
lesqnelles j*ai goute les plus grands
plaisirs que puissent donner la con-
templation et Tetude de la nature."

The descent requires more care
than the ascent, at least to guard
against slipping: the glides usually
sit down, and slide with great speed
over the dry grass.

The traveller who proposes to make
a visit to the Cramont a part of his
day's journey to St Maurice, should
start very early, and direct that the
mules, if he take any, should, from
where he left them, be sent across the
pasturages, to chalets which lie in his
way to the villa^ of La Balme. He
will thus gain tmie in ascending the
valley, though the descent to the ham-
let of El^va, down a steep and rugged
path over loose stones, is fatigumg.
La Balme is in the valley, about an
hour*s walk above where the path
up through the forest leads to the
Cramont; and there is no object of
interest missed between the two
places.

h. To the Col de Checruit, highly to

be recommended on account of the

splendid and uninterrupted view of

the chain of Mt. Blanc and the AUee

Blanche. It lies due W. of Cour-

mayeur, and may be made on a mule (2

hrs. to the Col). You cross theDoire,

through the village of Dolina, then

along the 1. bank of the torrent or

ravine leading to the Col for about

^ hr. from Courmayeur ; the path then

ascends the side of the ravine by a

series of steep zigzags to a little

oratory on a rock (1 hr).; thence

another hr. over steep slopes of grass

|ea49 to the Col, TH© best view is

obtained from a rocky eminence on
the rt. of the Col. No guide is neces-
sary. [A foot-path, about ^ hr. below
the Col^ leads in 1| hr. to the Mt.
Chetif, also called Mcnt Dolina and
Pain de Sucre, commanding a fine
view, but not equal to that from
the Cramont.] Instead of descend-
ing at once through the pine forest
into the Allee Blanche, it will well
repay you to keep along the slone of
the mountains until you arrive above
the Lac de Combal (Kte. 139), then
descending to the lake. You thus com-
pletely overlook the valley and the
Glacier of Miag^ which impedes the
view of Mt. Blanc, when you are in
the All^e Blanche. For this latter
part of the excursion, however, a guide
IS advisable. From Lac de Com-
bal you can return to Courmayeur in
2^ hrs.

c. The Mont de la Saxe, 2J hrs.
N.N.E. of Courmayeur, is easily ac-
cessible to ordinary travellers, and
commands the finest near view of Mont
Blanc, in some respects finer than
that from the Cramont, though, being
lower, it is less panoramic, the
Velan, the G-rivola, Ruitor, and others
of the Cogne range. After passing
the baths of La Saxe, the track
to the rt., leading into the Val Fer-
rex, is followed for a short dis-
tance, and then the ascent begins by
an easy path, which gradually reaches
the summit; this is a sort of undu-
lating plateau, in which no single
point much overlooks the rest. The
finest view is from an eminence called
the Croix de Bemada.

d. No excursion in the Alps is more
interesting to the lover of fine scenery
or the man of science than that to the
Glacier of La Brenva, It is best to
approach the glacier from the N. side,
taking the track from Courmayeur to
the village of Entrhes, From thence
proceed, in the first place, to visit the
cavern at the foot of the glacier, and
then ascend by a rough goat-track,
which leads to a plank thrown over a
torrent that is otherwise difficult to
pass, Abpye this tbere is no 4ifS?

376

BOUTE 135. — MARTIGNY TO A08TA.

Sect.

cnlty in selecting a spot by which to
mount on the sarface of me glacier,
here very free from crevasses. Im-
mediately opposite rises the Mont Pe-
teret^ the prmdpal buttress, which on
the S. side sustains the central mass
of Kont Blanc. It is easy to cross
the glacier and approach near to the
base of this pinnacle, which rises
nearly 7000 fL above the |;lacier. On
the ledges of its precipitous face
chamois are often to be seen, here
safe from the boldest hunter. Be-
tuming from the base of the Mont
P^teret, the traveller may either de-
scend the enormous moraine which
the glacier has borne down into the
the Alike Blanche, taking care not to
disturb the slightly-poised blocks that
hang on the steep slope, or else fol-
low the glacier to the point where it
bridges over the torrent of the Doire
and abuts against the rocks on the S.
side of the Allee Blanche, below the
chapel of Notre Dame de la Gu^rison,
there taking the regular track from
the Allee Blanche to Courmayeur,

e. An Inn has now been built on the
Mont Fr^ty, 2^ hrs. from Courmayeur,
at the southern base of the Col du
G '(mt; complaints made of its deamess
1861. From thence, or even from
Courmayeur, a mountaineer will find
no difficulty in reaching the summit
of the Col, which is interesting as
well for the magnificent view which it
commands as for its associations with
the history of Alpine adventure since
the time of Saussure. The guide will
not fail to point out the scene of the
fatal accident of 1860, wherein 3 Eng-
lish travellers and one of their guides
-—Frederic Tairraz, of Chamonni —
were lost in descending the CoL The
disaster, as was clearly explained by
Professor Tyndall, who carefully exa-
mined the spot and inquired into the
facts, arose altogether from the fact
that the rope to which the 3 tired
travellers were attached was not like-
wise fastened round the body of each
guide, but merely held in one hand. In
such a position, if one or more of the
party slip on difficult ground, the
guides have not their arms free to

use the alpenstock or hatchet, and,
save themselves, they let go the ro|
when, if their limbs were free, thej
might easily arrest the descent of
others.

5 routes diverge from Courmayeur:!
1, to Aosta ; 2, to the Great St. Ber>|
nard (Rte. 137); 3, the Little St
Bernard (Rte. 149) ; 4, the Col de U
Seigne to Chamouni (Rte. 139) ; b,\
the Col Ferrex to Martigny (R. 139) i

ROUTE 135.

MABTIGNT TO AOSTA. — PASS OP THE
GREAT ST. BERNARD.

K. ION.
MaiUgny.

BouTg 0 30

St. Branchler .... 2 30

Orsleres 1 0

Llddes (diligence stops) . 1 30

St. Pierre 1 0

Hospice 3 30

St. Kemy 1 30

SuOyen. ..... 1 15

Aosu 3 SO

Distance f 1 1 hours* walk to the fios-
pice ; about 6 h. thence to Aosta.

This pass is more remarkable in an
historic and romantic point of view-"

jRz0d^' d Savoy* boute 135. — pass op the great st, Bernard. 377

on. acconnt of its Hospice, monks, and
doers — than for its scenery, which is
inrerior to that on most of the other
great passes. Guides, mules, and
chars may be hired at Martigny,
Orsieres, or Liddes : the charges^
fbs.ed by tariff, are high — 30 fr. for
a char from Martig^y to Liddes,
and a mule thence to the hospice, in-
cluding return to Martigny. As far
as Proz, beyond Liddes, a practicable
char-road wascompletedby the spirited
Valaisans in 1850. Thence the ascent
to the hospice is made on mules, the
road beyond being impracticable, at

Present, for any sort of carria^.
^here is also a char-road on me
Italian side from St. Remy te Aosta :
the intervening space is only a mule-
path, but, as there are great facilities
for completing the road between the
Hospice and St. Bemy, it is by no
means improbable that the road may
be made practicable for chars in a
few years.

From Martigny (Bte. 56) the road
passes through Bourg-Martigny, and
shortly after crosses the Dranse to
its 1. bank. The bed of this river still
exhibits, in the rocks and stones with
which it is strewn, evidence of the
devastation occasioned in 1818, by
the bursting of a lake in the valley of
Bagnes. See Bte. 136.

Here the road leaves the path to

Chamouni on the rt., and continues

up the course of the Dranse to the

miserable villages of Yalette and

Bouvemier. Soon after the river is

i^ecrossed, and the road continues on

its rt. bank in the deep valley of the

Dranse. In one part the deme is so

narrow that it was found necessary

to cut a Tvtmiel 200 ft. long through

the rock. Emerging from it, see L

the ruins of a Convent overwhelmed

vith rubbish brought down by the

bursting of the lake, 1818. Bouver-

nier was saved from the same fate by

a projecting mass of rock. Beyond

it the road soon after recrosses the

river, and ascends on the L bank to

8t. Branchier (or Sembranchier),
?ki|other dirty village at the foot of

Mont Catogne, at the confluence of
the two rivers Dranse, coming from
the Val de Bagnes and the Val £n-
tremont and St. Bernard, (/nn, Croix,
cheap.) Guides and mules to the
Pierre a voir (Rte. 59).

Above St. Branchier there are
fine scenes in the Val d'Ehtremont,
but none strikingly grand ; it has the
general character of an Alpine valley,
and nothing that deserves to be par-
ticularly remembered. The Dranse
is twice crossed before reaching

Orsieres, Inn, H. des Alpes, pretty
good and moderate. Here Val Ferrex
opens into the Val Entremont, and
the path which leads to the Val
Ferrex turns off on the rt (Rte. 137).
[In going from Orsieres to Chamouni,
the pedestrian may take a pleasant
path to Trient (fete. 141) by the
valley and lake of Champs, lying to
the W. of the Mont Catogne.j

Beyond Orsieres there is a fine
view, and the scenery becomes rather
more wild. The torrent can seldom
be seen in the deep gorge which it
has made its course, but there is
nothing very striking in the scenery.

Liddes (^fnns: H. de TUnion; H.
d'Angleterre; none good).

12 fr. is often demanded for a
char to Martigny, but one may
generally be procured for 8 fr. The
charge for each mule from Liddes
to the hospice is 6 fr., and a douceur
to the boy who returns with the mule.
Beyond Liddes the char-road has
now been carried to a small inn on
the plain of Proz.

St. Pierre is a dirty, wretched
village, but it has inscriptions enough
to support some claims to antiquity
A military column, dedicated to
the younger Constantine, is placed
here. The Church dates from the 11th
century.

The brothers Ballay, of St. Pierre,
are bold chasseurs and excellent
guides for any expeditions in the
higher Alps of this district. In 1858
they discovered a new route to the
summit of the Grand Combin. (§ee
I^te. X3Q.)

378

ROUTE IBS.*— OREAT ST. BEBNABD. HOSPICE. Sect 11.

On leaving SL Pierre the road
crosses a de^ abyss, through which
the Dranse forces its way into the
▼alley below. The road to the hos-

Sice leaves on the L a torrent which
escends from the Yal Sorey, in which
there is, not far from St. Pierre, a
magnificent cascade.

The road formerly led through the
forest of St. Pierre, by a path among
the rocks and roots of pines, so steep
and tortuous that Napoleon's diffi-
culties in transporting his artOlery
were here, perhaps, the greatest that
he encountered from natural obstacles
during his extraordinary expedition
in 1800 across these Alps. The
Yalaisans have cut an excellent
road along the precipices which over-
hang the deep course of the Dranse,
avoiding the steep rises and falls
of the old road, and leading the
traveller by a safe path through a
savage defile.

Beyond the forest, where the pines
and the larches are stunted from their
elevation above the level of the sea,
the traveller arrives at some pas-
turages where there are many chalets.
The enormous mass of the Mont Yelan
appears to forbid further progress:
some of its fine glaciers, particularly
that of Menouve, stream down into
the plain of Proz, where, amidst the
shelter of surrounding mountains,
numerous herds gather the rich herb-
age of this Alpine pasturage. The
char-road ceases about 2 hours below
the Hospice at the little Inn called the
Cantine de Proz.

[From this the ascent and descent
of Mont Velan can be made in 12 hrs.
or less; Andr^ Dorsat, who kept the
Cantine, and was an excellent guide,
is now dead, but his son worthily suc-
ceeds to his reputation. It was first
ascended in 1825, since which up to
1856 only 11 ascents have been
made.

The first part of the ascent is up
the pastures of the Montagne de
Proa : these passed, a little rock-work
follows ; then the Qlacier de Prou^
which runs down in the direction
of the St. Bernard, is traversed,

and in about 3^ hrs. from the Can-
tine the main body of the Velan is
reached, which rises in a wall of rock,
perhaps 2000 ft. high. It is difficult
and laborious, hardly dangerous; but
there is only one accessible point, and
it is neoessarj to have a g^uide who
knows it. Hitherto every ascent has
been made with the Dorsats, £&tlier
or son : the young man is a first-rate
ffuide, his charge is 20 frs. for the
day. The top of the mountain is a
saddle-shapea plain of snow, perhaps
^ m. in length. The entire ascent,
including a halt for breakfast, will
take a good walker 6 hrs. Three hrs.
is enough for the descent to the Can-
tine; but it is much better to de-
scend by the glacier and valley of
Valsorey to St. Pierre. This will
take from 4 to 5 hrs., and, for the
exquisite beauty of the glacier itself
and grandeur of the near scenery — ^it
does not command distant views — the
route is scarcely to be surpassed in
the Alps. It lies between Mont Yelan
and Mont Combin. The descent is
along the crest of rocks which bounds
the glacier on the side of Italy, and
very steep; and there is some rough
climbing down the rocks or over the
ice.]

On rising above the plain of Proz
the path to the Hospice enters another
defile, and beyond it anothef summer
pasturage, steep and rugged; the
scenes l^ome more sterile and dreary,
another ravine is passed, and the sum-
mit is approached. At length, after
crossing some beds of snow, the soli-
tary walls of the

Hospice appear, and the traveUer
reaches, on the very crest of the pass,
this dwelling in the clouds, 8200
English feet above the sea-level.

Here, in the practice of the most
disinterested benevolence, lives this
community of Meligteux, who devote
the best time of their life, when man
is most susceptible of his powers for
its enjoyment, to the service of their
fellow-tnen; those whose pursuits
oblige them to traverse these dreary
fields in seasons of danger, when, wit^?

PtecP' ^ Savoy, ROUTE 135.— great st. Bernard, hospice. 379

out sach aid and protection, hundreds
must perish. -

The Hospice is a massive stone
building, well adapted to its perilous
situation, which is on the very nighest
point of the pass, where it is exposed
to tremendous storms from the N.E.
and avr. On the N.W. it is sheltered
by the Mont Chenellettaz, and in an
^vposite direction by the Mont Mort,
^ere is no mountain which bears the
name of the St Bernard. Like that
of the St Gothard, the name is only
giyen to the pass. The chief building
is capable of accommodating 70 or 80
travellers with beds; 300 may be shel-
tered; and between 500 and 600 have
received assistance in one day. Be-
sides this, there is a house, called H6tel
St Louis, on the other side of the
way, built as a place of refuge in
case of fire — an event which has twice
happened here since the foundation of
the establishment

The ground-floor of the main build-
ing consists of stabling, store-room
for wood, fodder, &c. A flight of
steps leads up to the principal entrance
in the first floor of the building, where
a long corridor connects the offices,
&c., with the chapel. Another corridor
on the floor above leads to the dor-
mitories, the refectory, the gallery of
the chapel, &c. The Drawing'room,
appropriated to the reception of
strangers, especially ladies, is entered
from the stairs between the two cor-
ridors. Here brethren do the honours
to their visitors.

The CUmmdier (or Bursar), the
commissary of the establishment, is
the brother who usually presides at
the hours of 11^ and 6, oinner and
sapper. Gentlemen dine or sup with
all the monks in their refectory.

The room appropriated to visitors
is large and convenient; it is hung
vidth many dravrings and prints, pre-
sents sent by travellers in acknow-
ledgment of the kind attentions which
they had received from the brethren.
The piano was a present from
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and is
not a little prized ; the harmonium is
a present from the composer Blumen-

thai. Attached to this room is a
cabinet, in which a day, unfavourable
for out-door enjoyment, may be passed
with interest and pleasure. It con-
tains collections of the plants, insects,
and minerals of the Ams, and many
relics of the Temple demcated to Ju-
piter, which formerly stood on this
pass, near to the site of the hospice.
These antiquities consist of votive
tablets, and figures, in bronze, and
other metals, and materials, arms,
coins, &c., and are curiously illus-
trative of the early worship on this
mountain, and the intercourse esta-
blished over this pass. No trace
whatever now remams of the temple,
though these relics are found upon
what is known to have been its site.
Steps cut in the rock may yet be seen,
which led up to the spot upon which
the temple stood.

The system of purveyance for the
hospital seems to be well regulated.
Supplies come from Aosta and the
neighbouring villages. Their winter
store of hay for their cows is so valu-
able that the mules which ascend
from either side with travellers gene-
rally bring their own hay, or supply
themselves from a vender establisned
in the convent, at a higher rate than
below. Wood for firing is one of the
most important necessaries to them.
Not a stick grows within 2 leagues, and
all the fuel supplied to the convent
is brought from the forest which be-
longs to it in the Yal Ferrex, a
distance of nearly 4 leagues. The
consumption of wood at the convent
is considerable, for, at the great ele-
vation of the' hospice, water boils at
about 190 degrees, which is so much
less fetvourable for the cooking of
meat than at 212 degrees, that it re-
quires 5 hrs. to eflect that which, at a
less elevation, may be done in 3 hrs.
They have adopted stoves for warming
the convent with hot air.

The Chapel of the hospice is gene-
rally well attended on Sundays and
Festas, when the weather is not unfa-
vourable, by the peasants from the
neighbouring valleys and Alp pas-
tures. It contains the grave of Gene-

T 3

380

BOUTE 135.— OBEilT ST. BEBNABD. HOSPICE. Sect. IL

nd I>e8saix, who fell at Marengo, alter
having contributed mainly to that
Tictory: the moniunent was erected
by Napoleon.

In the chapel there is a box, where
donations in aid of the funds of the
establishment are put, and travellers
who receive its hospitalities offer their
acknowledgments m a sum not less
than they would have paid for such ac-
oonmiodation at an inn. The pimnent
thus made by those who can afford it
ought to be in a more liberal d^ee,
because that excess aids the monks to
extend their assistance to poor and
destitute travellers, a very numerous
class of claimants upon them, from
the great intercourse which exists by
this pass between Switzerland and
Italy.

Visitors universally acknowledge
the kind and courteous attention
which they receive from those ex-
cellent men. The language used by
them is French, though there are
Italians and Germans among them.
The periodical works of some aca-
demic bodies and institutions are sent
to them, and they have a small
library, which is chiefly theologicaL
During their short summers, their
intercourse with well-informed tra-
vellers is extensive, which is shown
in the names and notices left by tra-
vellers in the albums preserved care-
fuUy by the brethren at the hospice.

There are usually 10 or 12 brethren
of the Augustine order, and a number
of assistant lay brethren (marronniers ),
here. They are all young men, who
enter upon this devoted service at 18.
The severities of the weather in the
winter, at this height, often impair
their health, and they are driven to
retire to a lower and more genial
clime, with broken constitutions and
ruined health. Even in the summer
it has happened that the ice has never
melted in the lake on the summit,
and in some years (1816) not a week
has passed withont snow falling.
It always freezes early in the morn-
ing, even in the hc^ht of summer,
and the hospice is rarely four months
clear of deep snow. Around the
building it averages 7 or 8 feet,

and the drifts sometimes rest against
it, and accumulate to the height of 40
feet. The severest cold recorded is
29<» below zero of Fahrenheit: it has
often been observed at 18** and 20** be-
low. The ^eatest heat has been
68^ in the height of summer,

** The moi& have a deep cellar
where they keep their wine, &c. un-
frozen, althougn the thermometer
often descends to 20° of Beaumur, or
— 13° of our scale. Fresh meat is
easUy procured in the summer from the
valleys, but for winter they lay m a
store of salted and pressed meat. They
also keep a number of cows to supply
them with milk, butter, and cheese.
One only is kept up at the hospice
during the winter : the rest are sent
to Martigny, and their produce car-
ried up in the solid form. The monks
are also obliged to keep 45 horses all
the year, in order to brmg wood from
a forest 3 leagues off. This employ-
ment lasts for 2 months during sum-
mer, hence the wood must be l>y far
the most expensive article. Travel-
lers are passing every day during the
winter, notwit^tanding the perils of
such a pass at such times. These
persons, when they arrive at a certain
nouse not fur from the summit, are
desired to wait till the following
morning, when a servant and a dog
descend from the top to this kind of
refuge, and take up all the persons
assembled, the servant being conducted
by the dog, who, it appears, neyer
nusses his way, but, entirely hidden,
except his tail, in the snow, directs the
march of the whole cavalcade. The
stories about the monks going out
searching for lost travellers, and the
does carrying wine, are fedse in toto,
and the proof is, that such proceeding
is impossible, for as great difficulty
exists to the monks roaming about as
to the travellers. This labour of the
dogs is so great, that their life never
exceeds 9 years, owing to attacks of
rheumatism, which is &e bane of both
dog and man up here. The infirm
dog^ are generally killed. If the f^t
of the persons are found frozen, tiiey
are immediately rubbed strongly with
snow or with a stimulating ointment,

Pied^- ^ Savoy, bqute 136. — (Jeeat st. besbkard. hospice.

981

J£ neither suooeed, the mortified part
is immediately amputated by one of
the monks, who studies mecUcine a
little. If necessary, stockings, &c., are
given to the poor. No dead body has
been left unclaimed for two years past,
so that there was no addition to the
morgue. The snow is generally 30
ft. deep in winter. There are generally
5 or 6 doffs at the hospice. Tradition
reports uiat they are a cross between
the Newfoundland and the Pyrenean.
In the year 1825 all the dogs and 3 ser-
yants (sent on this occasion together —
an unusual occurrence) were destroyed
by an avalanche. Luckily the monks
had recently given away a couple of
dogs, which were returned to them, or
the breed would have been lost. 10 ser-
vants are kept in winter, and 8 in sum-
mer, of whom 2 descend daily to the
refuges to bring up travellers, from
the month of October to the end of
April, the time of course varying ac-
cording to the season. Few of the
monks are able to stand the climate
for more than 15 years ; but there is
no stated time for which they devote
themselves ; each stays as long as he
is able, being allowed 30 days' recre-
ation— 15 at a time — at a subsidiary
house at Martigny, where also they
descend when no longer able to live at
the St. Bernard, or else they go to the
hospice on the Simplon. Service is
performed in the chapel at 4^ a.m.
m summer, and 5 in winter, and at
8 P.M. all the year round.

**The times at which the poor tra-
vellers pass in greatest numbers dur-
ing the winter, are in November, Fe-
bruary, March, and ApriL As many
as 2000 per month will pass in Febru-
ary and March, because the poor in-
hiwitants of the valleys are then goiug
out to seek work ; in November they
come home with money in their
pockets." In the course of 1844, 19,000
travelers passed over the mountain.

**The scene from the W. end of the
hospice looking towards Italy is sterile
ana dreary ; patches of snow are seen
on the sides of the mountains, which
sweep down to the lake ; and the Pain
de Sucre, a pinnacled mountain on the
Qtl^er side of the Yacherie, with its

rocks and snows, adds to its wUdness
and desolation.

** A column opposite to the middle
of the water marks the boundary of
Piedmont and the Yalais ; above and
beyond it, is the little plain of Jupiter,
where a temple formerly stood, and
from which a Boman road led down
on the Piedmontese side of tiie pass.
This road may be easily traced in the
hevm rock, and the remains of a mas«
sive pavement ; but not a vestige of
the temple is left above the surface.

** The first foundation of the hos-
pice has been attributed by some to
Ix>uis le Debonnaire, by others to Char-
lemagne. There is historical evidence
that a monastery existed on the Great
St. Bernard before the year 851.

'* The present hospice was founded
in 962, by Bernard, who was bom of
a noble ramily of Savoy, at the cha-
teau of Menthon, on the lake of An-
necy. A determination at an early
age to devote himself to an ecclesias-
tical life induced him to desert his
home and go to Aosta, of which city
he afterwards became archdeacon.
While residing there, his frequent
intercourse with pilgrims and tra-
vellers probably suggested to him as
a work of mercy the restoration of
the convent of the Mont Joux, and
the establishment of another similar.
He became the founder of both
houses, gave to them the name, and

E laced them under the protection, of
is favourite saint, Nicolas de Myra,
as tutelary patron of these establish-
ments. By degrees, and after the
canonization of Bernard^ his name
superseded that of all others, and has
continued attached to the hospice since
1123. He died in 1008, after having
governed the convent upwards of 40
years. For some time after the death
of St. Bernard the hospice was ex-
posed to frequent outrages from bar-
barians who traversed the mountains;
and its records of the 11th century
present a succession of calamities,

** It soon acquired celebrity and
opulence: emperors, sovereign pontiffs,
and other distinguished persons, dis-
puted the glory of fostering and pro-
tecting a foundation so important to

382

ROUTE 135."-OREAT 8T. BEBKARD. HOSPICE.

Sect. n.

humanity. In the contests of the em-
peror Frederic Barbarossa with pope
Alexander in. and Humbert count
of Maurienne, diplomas of protection
were given by them for the security
of persons and property belonging
to tne monastery. As early as 1177,
it had, in various dioceses, 88 bene-
fices, in priories, cures, chateaux,
and fiums; it had lands in Sicily, in
Flanders, and in England. Its cli*
max of riches and importance was
in 1480, when it possessed 98 livings.
Subsequently, however, the Reforma-
tion, political changes in the states,
loss of distant property, disputes
with the popes, with the neighbour-
ing states, and with each other,
drove the monks of St Bernard to
seek even eleemosynary assistance.
The very land upon which their noble
duties are performed has been the
subject of disputes between the neigh-
bouring states. Sardinia claimed it
as within a frontier extending to the
bridge of Nudri, on the northern
side; but the Yalaisans established a
claim to it as within the diocese of
Sion, by bulls of the popes from
Leo rX. to Benoit XIV. The hos-
pice» therefore, stands within the
canton of the Yalais; but its autho-
rity extends only to the middle of the
lake, on the borders of which a co-
lumn is fixed as a line of demarcation.
Very little property in land still
belongs to the hospice; a vineyard
at Clarens, and a farm at Roche, in
the Pays de Yaud, are the principal:
their resources are small, and in aid of
them collections are regularly made
in the Swiss cantons.'' — Brockedon's
Passes of the Alps,

Bonaparte rather impoverished
than enriched the monks. It was
true that he had assisted them with
donations, but his claims upon their
funds had exceeded his oenefits ;
that they had had 40 men quartered
upon them for months together, and
60,000 had passed in one season, and
aU these had been assisted.

The duties of the Brotherhood of
St. Bernard and their servants some-
times lead them into fatal danger.
On the 17th of Dec. 1825, a party

of 3 domestics of the convent, or
Marronniers — one of them was Victor,
a worthy man, well remembered by
Alpine travellers — ^went out witli 2
dogs, on the side of the Yacherie, to
search at a dangerous time for tra*
vellers. They met one, with wbom
they were returning to the convent,
when an avalanche overwhelmed them,
and all perished, except one of the
dogs, whose prodigious streng^ and
activity enamed it to escape. Xhe
bodies of poor Yictor and his com-
panions were found only after the
melting of the snow in the foUoviring
summer. Nov. 12, 1845, the Clavan-
dier and 3 servants were buried be-
neath an enormous avalanche from
the Mont Mort, which covered them
15 ft. deep, and all perished.

" There is one scene of melancholy
interest usually visited on the St.
Bernard — the Morgue, or receptacle
for the dead. It is a low bnHmng a
few yards from the E. extremity of
the convent, where the bodies of the
unfortunate victims to storms and
avalanches in these mountains have
been placed. They have generally
been found frozen, and put into this
horrid receptacle in the posture in
which they perished. Here many
have * dried up and withered,' and
on some even the clothes have re-
mained after 18 years. From the
rapid evaporation at this height,
the bodies had dried without the
usual decay. In a walled enclosure
on one siae of the morgue was a
great accumulation of bones« white,
broken, and apparently the gather-
ing of centuries. Upon this rocky
and frozen soil they could not bary
the dead, and, probably, as they dry
up without of&nce, they are placed
here for the chance of recognition." —
Passes of the Alps.

On leaving the hospice to descend
to the Yal d'Aosta, the path skirts
the lake, and passes between it and the
Plain de Jupiter. A little beyond
the end of the lake, afiter passing
through a short defile, the scene opens
towards Italy, into the basin of the

Vacheriet where the cows of the

Pied^* ^ Savoy, route 186. — martigny to aosta.

convent are pastured. The road turns

abruptly to the right, and sweeps

round the basin to descend gradually

to the plain below.

The view on first looking out upon

the Vacherie, from the gorge in the
Mont Mort, is very fine, the moun-
tains on the opposite side being sub-
lime in form and elevation: the most
Btriking in the scene is the Path de
Sucre, celebrated by Saussure.

At tiie lower end of the Yacherie
the path winds down by a series of
zigzags, and thence the descent is
rapid to

8i, Remy^ a dreary little village ;
/fin, H. dn Alpes, indifferent. Here
return chars to Aosta may generally
be obtained for 10 francs. Travellers
who leave Aosta to visit the hospice,
in a char for St. Remy, and intend to
return, cause it to wait for them there
for four or six hours, and pay 20
francs fbr the char for the day, with
a buona-mano to the postilion.

Here the Piedmontese custom-home
is placed. From St. Bemy the road
descends, with little interest in the
scenery, to

i^3

St, Oyen,

At Stroubles, the St. Bernard
branch of the Buttier is crossed, and
the road descends to the village of.
Gignod, where the vegetation begins
to luxuriate, and the effects of an
Italian climate are felt and seen. Here
there is a fine peep into the Val Pel-
lina. From Gignod to the city of
Aosta, the richness of the scenery is
coBstantly increasing. Trellised vines
and Indian com mark the approach
to the Val d' Aosta; and the first
view of the city and the valley, in the
descent from the St. Bernard, where
the background is filled with the mag-
nificent forms and snowy summits of
the mountains above the V al de Cogne,
is veiy fine indeed.

Aosta (Rte. 194).

ROUTE 136.

MABTIQNT TO AOSTA, BY THE VAL DE
BAGKES, THE COL DES FEN^TBES,
AND VAL PELLINA.

Martigny. Honrs.

St Branchier, char-road . 2i

Cbables li

Lonrtier li

Getros, l)ii^e>road . . 2i

Torembec ..... 2

Valpellina 8

Aosta, obar-road ... 3

This valley can be visited with con-
venience since the establishment of an
Inn at Getroz.

Martigny to St, Branchier (Rte. 135).

From St Branchier a good mule-
track leads up the valley of Bagnes,
which is very fertile, to

Chdbles {Inn : H. Perrodia, country
quarters), the principal village in the
valley. Here the glacier <» Getroz
comes into sight. The valley is nar-

384

BOUTE 186. — ^INUNDATION IN THE VAL D£ BAGNES. Seot. H.

TOW, aboimding in gorees, and offering
many fine scenes to the penoi] of the
traveller. At Champaeo a small Inn,
The char-road ends at LowHtTy } hr.
further (no regular inn). Above this
place ^the gorge of the I>ranoe be-
comes still narrower. It opens out
somewhat at the junction of the
stream flowing from the gpreat Qkusier
of Corbassiere, filling the W. branch
of the valley on the N. side of the
peak of the OrandCombin, or Qraffeneire.
This, the giant of this part of the
Pennine chain, 14,134 ft. in height^ is
known in the Yal de Bagnes only by
the name Graffeneire, the name Mont
Combin being given to a lower peak
on the W. side of the glacier of
Corbassiere. The summit was first
reached in 1857 by two chasseurs of
Lourtier, and later in the same year
by Mr. W. Mathews. Two brothers
named Ballay, of St. Pierre, discovered
a new way to the summit in 1858 by
the Col de la Maison Blanche, N.£. of
the glacier of Valsorey. Not more
than 7 or 8 ascents have been made.
Very poor accommodation is found
in the chalets of Corbassiere.

Following the main valley from Lour-
tier, in about l^ hr. the path reaches

Pwt de JIfauvoisin, a lofty stone-
arched bridffe, at the upper limit of
trees, by which you pass from the
rt. to the 1. bank of the Drance, ad-
joining a small hamlet, not far below
the glaciers of Getroz.

Getroz /nn'— fiivourite quarters for
mountaineers — in the centre of nu-
merous excursions and passes. Ber-
trand Trolliet is a good guide.

Ihbdcle, The descent of the glaciers
of Getroz from the Mont Pleureur
was the cause of the interruption
of the waters of the Drance, which
formed a lake and burst its bounds in
1595, carrying off in its destructive
course more than 140 persons from
'the valley, besides houses and cattle.
A more recent inundation, that of
1818, from a similar cause, has left
fearful traces of its overwhelming
power, J^ong the boulders brought

down by that event, is one 'whieli
contains above 1400 cnbicfL; and the
height which the waters then at-
tained is yet distinctly marked inhere
the land, then covered, is even now
desolate.

** Vast blocks of stone," says
Brockedon, in his ' Excursions in the
Alps,' ** which were driven and de-
posited there by the force of the
waters, now strew the valley; and
sand and pebbles present an arid sur-
face where rich pasturages w«re seen
before the catastrophe. The quantity
and violence of the water suddenly
disengaged, and the velocity of its
descent, presented a force which the
mind may calculate, but cannot con-
ceive.

** In the spring of 1818 the people
of the valley of Bagnes became
alarmed on observing the low state of
the waters of the Drance, at a seascm
when the melting of the snows usu-
ally enlarged the torrent; and this
alarm was increased by the records of
similar appearances bdEbre the dread-
ful inundation of 1595.

" In April, 1818, some persons
went up the valley to ascertain the
cause of the deficiency of water, and
they discovered that vast masses of
the glaciers of Getroz, and avalanches
of snow, had fallen into a narrow part
of the valley between Mont Pleureur
and Mont Mauvoisin, and formed a
dike of ice and snow 600 ft. wide
and 400 ft. high, on a base of 3000 ft,
behind which the waters of the
Drance had accumulated, and formed
a lake above 7000 ft. long. M. Ve^
netz, the engineer of the Y allais, was
consulted, and he immediately de-
cided upon cutting a gallery through
this barrier of ice, 60 ft. above the
level of the water at the time of com-
mencing, and where the dike was 600
ft. thic£ He calculated upon making
a tunnel through this mass before the
water should have risen 60 ft higher
in the lake. On the 10th of May the
work was begun by gangs of 50 men,
who relieved each oSier, and worked,
without intermission, day and night,
with inconceivable courage and per?
severance, neither deteired by the

JPted^- ^ Savoy, rte. 136. — ^znundation in the val de bagnes. 385

dAily occnrring danger from the faU-

ing* of fresh masses of the glacier, nor

by the rapid increase of the water in

ine lake, which rose 62 ft. in 34 days

— on an average nearly 2 ft. each

day; but it once rose 5 ft. in one day,

and threatened each moment to burst

the dike by its increasing pressure;

or, rising in a more rapid proportion

than the men could proceed wiUi their

work, render their efforts abortire, by

rising above them. Sometimes dread-

fdl noises were heard, as the pressure

of the water detached masses of ice

from the bottom, which, floating, pre-
sented so much of their bulk above

the water as led to the belief that

some of them were 70 ft. thick. The

men persevered in their fearful duty

without any serious accident; and

though suffering severely from cold

and wet, and surrounded by dangers

which cannot be justly described, by

the 4th of June they had accomplished

an opening 600 ft. long; but naving

b^on their work on both sides of the

dike at the same time, the place where

they ought to have met was 20 ft.

lower on one side of the lake than on

the other; it was fortunate that lat-
terly the increase of the perpendicular

height of the water was less, owing to

the extension of its surface. They

proceeded to level the highest side of

the tnnne^ and completed it just be-
fore the water reached them. On the

evening of the 13th the water began

to flow. At first the opening was not

large enough to carry off the supplies

of water which the lake received, and
' it rose 2 ft. above the tunnel; but this

soon enlarged from the action of the

water, as it melted the floor of the

gallery, and the torrent rushed

through^ In 32 hrs. the lake sunk

10 ft., and during the following 24

hrs. 20 ft. more; in a few days it would

have been emptied; for the floor

melting, and being driven off as the

water escaped, kept itself below the
level of the water within; but the
cataract which issued from the gal-
lery melted and broke up also a large
portion, of the base of the dike which
had served as its buttress; its resist-
ance decreased faster than the pres*

sure of the lake lessened, and at 4
o'clock in the afternoon of the 16th of
June the dike burst, and in half an
hour the water escaped through the
breach, and left the lake empty.

" The greatest accumulation of
water had been 800,000,000 of cubic
feet; the tunnel, before the disruption,
had carried off nearly 330,000,000—
£scher says, 270,000,000; but he
neglected to add 60,000,000 which
flowed into the lake in 3 days. In
half an hour, 530,000,000 cubic ft.
of water passed through the breach,
or 300,000 ft per second; which
is 5 times greater in quantity than
the waters of the Rhine at Basle,
where it is 1300 English ft. wide.
In one hour and a half the water
reached Martigny, a distance of 8
leagues. Through the first 70,000
ft. it passed with the velocity of
33 ft. per second — four or five
times faster than the most rapid
river known; yet it was charged with
ice, rocks, earth, trees, houses, cattle,
and men; 34 persons were lost, 400
cottages swept away, and the da-
mage done in .the 2 hrs. of its deso-
lating power exceeded a million of
Swiss livres. All the people of the
valley had been cautioned against the
danger of a sudden irruption; yet it
was fatal to so many. All the bridges
in its course were swept away, and
among them the bridge of Mauvoisin,
which was elevated 90 feet above the
ordinary height of the Brance. If
the dike had remained untouched, and
it could have endured the pressure
until the lake had reached the level
of its top, a volume of 1,700,000,000
cubic feet of water would have been
accumulated there, and a devastation
much more fatal and extensive must
have been the consequence. From
this greater danger the people of the
valley of the Brance were preserved
by the heroism and devotion of the
brave men who effected the formation
of the gallery in the dike, under the
direction of M. Yenetz. I know no
instance on record of courage equal
to this, their risk of life was not for
fame or for riches — ^they had not the
usual exci^ments to personal risk ix^

386

nOUTE 136. — VAL DB BAGNES.

Sect. n.

a world's applause or gazetted promO'
tion, — their devoted coiirage was to
save the lives and property of their
fellow-men, not to destroy them.
They steadily and heroically perse-
vered in their labours, amidst dangers
such as a field of battle never pre-
sented.

** But the skill of M. VenetE was not
limited in its application to emptjring
the lake: his aDuities have been pro-
perly directed to the prevention of
such another catastrophe, for the lia-
bility to its recurrence was obvious.
Not one-twentieth part of the ice
which formed the barrier had been
removed when the dike burst, and
fresh masses were still falling from
Mont Fleureur and Mont Mauvoisin,
the mountains of which the bases
formed the buttresses to the dike; in
fact the dike was again accumulating
so rapidly, that at the end of 1819 the
barrier was almost as complete as be-
fore its bursting from the pressure of
the lake.

** It became, therefore, an important
object to prevent a repetition of the
former catastrophe, by the adoption
of such means as would prevent, or at
least diminish, the increase of the
barrier. Blasting by gunpowder was
found impracticable, from the diffi-
culty of firing the powder at consi-
derable depths in the ice, and from
the comparatively small masses re-
moved by this means. After much
consideration and many trials, a mode
has been adopted and put in execu-
tion by M. Yenetz, which promises
the greatest success.

** M. Yenetz had remarked that the
glacier could not support itself where
the river was of a certain width, but
fell into it and was dissolved ; whereas,
where the river was comparatively
narrow, the ice and snow formed a
vault over it, and consequently tended
to the preservation of any portion
falling from the glacier above. Per-
ceiving also the effect of the river in
dissolving the part it came in contact
with, he formed and executed the de-
sign of bringing the streams of the
neighbouring mountains by a canal to
Mauvoisin, opposite the highest part

of the glacier where it touched that
mountain. From hence it was con-
ducted by wooden troughs on to the
glacier in a direction parallel to the
valley* The water was divided into
two streams; one fklling nearly^ on
the one edge of the Dranee, and the
other on the other; and having be^i
warmed by the sun in its course, soon
cut very deep channels in the iee.
When they reached the river the
troughs were removed a few £eet» and
thus the stream produced the effisct of
a saw, which, dividing the ice, forced
the portion betrveen them to fall into
the JDrance.

** When the weather is fine, these
streams, which are not more than 4-
or 5 inches in diameter, act with ex-
traordinaiT power, piercing a hc^e
200 feet deep and 6 feet in diameter
in 24 hours. "Diey are calculated to
remove 100,000 cubical feet of ice
from the barrier daily, and it is sup-
posed that if the weather is fine
the whole will be removed in three
years.

<* At the end of the season of 1822
the Dranee remained covered only for
a length of 480 feet; whereas, at the
commencement of the operation, it
was covered over a length of 1350
feet. M. Yenetz estimates the quan-
tity of ice removed in 1822 as between
11 and 12 millions of cubical feet" —
B^, Vhiv, xxiL 58.

«The main glacier of Getroz lies
high up amidst the defiles of Mont
Fleureur, and is not visible from the
path along the opposite side of the
valley. The glacier which did the
mischief, now reduced in size, resem-
bles a mass of unmelted snow, lying
in the depths of the defile, and in
reality consists of fragments which
have fallen from the upper glacier
over a cliff of enormous height, at
whose edge it terminates. The defik
is so narrow that these dirty fallen
fragments still partially hat the course
of the river, and must continue to
choke the outlet until a tunnel be
formed for the passage of the water
beneath them.*' — See Forhes,

JF^ie^' if Sawy,

ROUTE 136. — ^VAL DE BAGKES.

387

The path now lies across the bed

o£ the glacier-lake, whose bursting

clid so much mischief: 4 hours' walk

from Chable; 1^ hour further lie the

clialets of Torembec, above Getroz,

^wbich can be reached in good time in

one day from Martigny; and those

who wish to cross the glaciers can

sleep there, or at Chermontane, and

reach Aosto (m the following day.

The ascent of the upper part of the
valley, crossing to the 1. bank of the
Drance, presents scenes of greater
grandeur than any below. As the
valley turns to the S.E. several gla-
ciers come into sight, that of Bre-
nay is passed on we 1., and that of
Durand, descending on the rt. from
the Mont Combin, stretches over
across the Drance. It requires to be
traversed in order to reach the pas-
tures, on which stand the chalets of
Chermontane, on the W. of the valley,
at the foot of the Mont AvriL These
are on a larger scale than usual, and
they afford uie best quarters for any
one seeking to explore the neighbour-
ing mountains^ but a chalet is, at the
besta very comfortless stoppinp^-place.
Thelfon^ As>ril, whose summit is easily
reached from these chalets in 4 hrs.,
eommands a magnificent view of the
. neighbouring Alps.

[From the chalets of Chermontane
there is a somewhat difficult and labo-
rious glacier pass, the (kH du Mont
Sou^fCf leading to the head of Val
d'Heremence, the W, branch of the
Eringer-thfJ, or Val d'Erin. From
thence Sion might be reached on the
same day; or, by crossing the ridge
separating the glacier aHer^mence
firom the Combe d'Arolla, it is pos-
sible to push on to the comfortable
inn at Svolena. In either case the
day's journey is a severe one, fit only
for well-trained pedestrians.] Ber-
nard TroUiet, of Getroz, is considered
the best chasseur and guide in the Val
de fiagnes.

Prc^essor Forbes did not descend
to the ch^ets, but keeping high up on
the flanks of Mont Avril, skirting the
elacier, mounted by a tedious but not
difficult aspent to the

Col des FenStres, 9213 feet above the
sea-leveL Calvin fled by this pass
from Aosta in 1541.

** The view towards Italy is won-
derfully striking. The mountains (of
Cogne) beyond Aosta, and the glaciers
of Buitor, are spread out in the dis*
tance, and beneath we have the ex-
ceeding deep valley of Ollomont, com-
municating with the Val PeUine,
which is itself a tributary of the Val
d'Aosta. It is enclosed by ridges of
the most fantastic and savage gran-
deur, which descend from the moun-
tains on either side of the Col on the
N.E. from Mont Combin, rising to a
height of 14,200 ft, and on the S.E.
from Mont Gelee, 12,000 ft. high,
and almost too steep to bear snow,
presenting a perfect ridge of pyra-
midal aiguilles stretching towards Val
Pellina.— Pro/. Forbes,

The course from the Col des FenS-
tres to Val Pellina is to skirt the base
of the peaky ridges of Mont Oelee,
passing a small lake by a rapid de-
scent, and reaching the pastures. The
descent is long and fatiguing to
Balme, the first hamlet, and to Ollo-
mont, where there are traces of an
aqueduct built by the Bomans for the
supply of water to Augusta Prsetoria.
Thence the road descends through
the village of Yal Pellina, whence the
path leaos along the L bank of the
river till it joins the main road, about
2 m. from

Aosta. (Bte. 134.)

388

ROUTE 187. — ^MARTIGNT TO COUHMAYEUR.

Sect. n.

ROUTE 137.

MABTiaNT TO CX)UBMATEUB.

A. BY THE COL DE FEBBEX.

B. BT THE COL DE LA FEMBTBE.

C. BY THE COL DE 8EBENA.

A. Col de Ferrex,

Houn.
Martigny.

Orsleres 4

La Folie 2i

Ool Ferrex 2

Ck)armayear 4 %

The most direct route from Mar-
tigny and the Valais to the S. side of
Mont Blanc is by the Col de Ferrex.
The scenery on the Piedmontese side
is fine, but wants variety.

An active pedestrian will accom-
plish the distance in llf hrs.

The route from Martigny to Or-
sleres has been described Rte. 135.

At Orsieres a path turns off on the
rt., enters the Vol Ferrex, which is the
name given to the valley on the Swiss
side mounting towards the Col, as
T^eU as to the Piedmon^se Talley de-

scending from thence towards Coor-
mayenr, and forming, in feict, a con-
tinuation of the A\\4e Blanche. The
road to the Col mounts along- the
bank of the torrent, and, after
pursuing a tolerable road to Tsaert,
the principal village, 4^ hrs. dis-
tant from Mardgny, ascends ra-
pidly towards the higher hamlets of
Pra le Fort and Branche. The moon-
tains which bound the valley to-
wards the W. are lofty, and orowxied
with the northern extremity of those
vast glaciers of the chsdn of Mont
Blanc which descend towards the Vai
Ferrex, as the glaciers of Salena, For-
talet, and Neuve.

There is nothing, however, re-
markable in the scenery of the Swiss
Val Ferrex. The route leads tip a
succession of rather fiat divisions of
the valley, from Issert to the Chalets
de Folie, distant 2 hrs. On the rt.,
the short transversal valleys descend-
ing frcmi the N.E. end of the Mont
Blane chain are the channels for
glaciers.

Above the Ch&lets de Folie the
usual path to the Col Ferrex 'leads
up through the Ch&lets of Ferrex, o'per
the detritus of a mountain whidi fell
in the year 1776, burying the pas-
turages of Bauderai. Near to these
chalets two paths separate — ^that on
the 1. leading over the Col de la
Fendtre to the Great St. Bernard, that
on the rt to the Col Ferrex.

[A short path leads to another Col,
close to the chain of M. Blane, called
the Little Ferrex, It is not a raole-
path, and the distant views are infe-
rior. The paths re-unite at Pre de
Bar.]

The woods and pasturages of part
of the Val Ferrex belong to the 0»-
vent of the Great St. Bernard, and
at this dtstanoe from the hospice (4
or 5 leagues) the brethren obtain all
their wood and some hay, which is
conveyed to them by mules over the
Col de la Fenetre.

From the crest of the Col, the viev
along the S.E. side of Mont Blane,
towards Piedmont, is one of thf

Pied^ ^ Sawy. route 137. — col de la fenbtrb.

389

scenes celebrated by Sansmre. The

eye is carried through the Val d'En-

treves and the All^ Blanche to

the Col de la Seigne, an extent

of - 30 m. Numerous glaciers are

seen on the rt., streaming down into

the Talley from the ridge of Mont

Blanc; but the ** Monarch" himself

is not seen>~the enormous masses of

the Grand Jorasse and the G^ant

conceal him in this Tiew. In the

opposite direction, the Swiss Val

Ferrex is seen, bounded on either side

by lofty mountains, and the distance

b limited only by the Bernese Alps.

The descent is over a soft slaty soil,
in which the tracks of sheep and
cattle hare cut deep trenches, in which
if a man stand he is half concealed.
10 min. below the Col a cross is
placed on the edge of a precipice
which the path passes. It serves to
guide the course of the ascending tra-
veller, though from below it seems
to be placed on a pyramidal mass of
rock which it would, be impossible to
attain. Far in the deep valley the
stream flowing into Italy appears like
a thread of siKrer.

An hour and a half of fatiguing
descent brings the traveller to the
Chalets of Pre de Bar, (Inn: toler-
able.)

Near Pre de Bar the vast glacier
of Triolet sweeps down from the
crest which divioes this glacier from
the masses, which, on the other side,
form the glacier of Taldfre. Below
the elacier of Triolet, the road de-
scend by a fatiguing path, amidst
rocks and stones and bushes, pre-
senting a scene of Alpine desola-
ti<m. The valley is very narrow, and
each rift on the mountain side towards
Mont Blanc has its glacier hanging
down from the summit. Not less
than 7 distinct glaciers are passed
in the course of this valley hefore
reaching the village of Entr^ves, near
to Corm&yenr. These chiefly de-

Smd from the masses which form the
rand Jorasse, and the remarkable
peak of the Geant. A few miserable
villages in the Val d'Entrdves are
passed. The highest is Sagion ; those
below are Fre-sec a|id Phui-pansier,

More than half the length of the val-
ley is passed, on the descent, before
Mont Blanc is seen. When its pro-
digious mass opens to the view, the
effect is overwhelming. The rug|^-
ness of the descent is increased by
passing over the debris of a mountain
fall beneath the Geant. This passed,
the river, which descends through the
Val d'Entrdves, is crossed, the village
of Entrdves is left on the rt., and,
winding along a path by the side of
the mountain, you reach
Courmayeur (Bte. 134).

& Col de la Fenitre,

By allowing 2 easy days for the jour-
ney from Martigny to Courmajreur
the pedestrian. may combine a visit to
the St. Bernard with the view of the
Allee Blanche from the Col de Ferrex.
which is one of the siriking scenes in
the tour of Mont Blanc. Going on
the first day to the Hospice of the
St. Bernard (Etc. 135), he may take
a guide to lead him from thence by
the Col de la Feneire to the head of the
Swiss Val Ferret. The way is pretty
well traced, as wood is carried by this
track to the Hospice ; but a little fresh
snow would be sufficient to conceal it,
when it would be very difficult to
find the true direction. 3^ hrs.
suffice to reach the point where this
path leads into the ordinary route
from Orsi^res to the Ool de Ferrex, a
little below the summit of the pass.

c. Col de Serena,

This is the best route for pe-
destrians who wish to pass the Great
St. Bernard, and then to reach Cour-
mayeur by the shortest way. It is
net, however, a very interesting pass.
The shortest course is to follow a
path which turns to the rt. close to
the Vacherie of the Hospice, and,
winding round the slopes of the moun^

390

ROUTE 138. — GENEVA TO CHAMOUNl.

Sect. n.

tains, reaches the chMet at the foot of
the Col de Serena, where it joins the
regular track. This is a considerable
short-cut, but is very fatiguing, and
requires a local g^aide. A good walker
may easily get to Courmayeur this
way in 7 hrs. The ordinary route,
which is passable for mules, descends
as far as St Remy on the way towards
Aosta. Tou there take the road to
the rt. to the Tillage of Bosses, then
through fields for ^ hr., and you
arrive at the foot of the Col. Half an
hr.'s ascent through a pine-forest
brings you to the last chalet, where
milk and cheese may be obtained as
long as the cows are on the mountain.
Here, instead of following a road to
the rt., go up the mountain by a zigzag
path immediately behind the chalet,
and 1^ hr's. good walking will land
you on the top of the Col. This
part of the road is exceedingly
steep, but the view from the sum-
mit well rewards your labour. The
scenery is very wild, especially to-
wards the N. and N.W., offering a
great contrast to the beautifully cul-
tivated valley of Aosta, which shortly
afterwards (just above the village of
Marges) you see extended at your
feet. From Merges to Morgex, on
the high road between Aosta and
Courmayeur (Rte. 134), is a walk
down a stony path of about ^ hr.
Thence to Courmayeur 2 hrs. walk ;
in all about 9 hrs, from the Hospice.
The Serena abounds with ptarmigan
and chamois.

There is another pass, called the
Cd de 8t, Remy, by which the Val
Perrex may be reached on the Pied-
montese side of the Col. There is no
advantage in this. It is longer
than the Serena, and you lose the
view of the AUee Blanche from the
Col de Ferrex.

ROUTE 138.

GENEVA

TO CHAMOUNl.

86 kilom.

= 53iEng.

Geneva.
Bonneville .
St Martin .
Ghamonni .

SSL

. . 28 =
. . 30 =

. . 28 as

Eog. m.

= 18t

s I7i

Diligences (several daily) to St. Mar-
tin or Sallenches (6 hrs.), there ex-
changed for light post-chars suited to
the rest of the road, which is very hilly
and rough, and, though only 17 1 m.,
takes from St Martin to Chamoiud
5 hrs. A carriage and pair cost
80 frs. Pedestrians will find it as
pleasant to walk from St. Martin
to Chamouni, and will traverse the
distance in about 4 or 5 hrs. On no
account be deluded into paying for the
double journey by diligence or other-
wise, to return to Geneva. There «re
S^v^ral routes from Qhampupi of gpreaf

Pie<^' ^ Savoy, ROdxE 188.— CHESisfE. BONii^ViLtfi. cLttsES. 391

interest, by which you may avoid re-
tracing your steps by the same road.

Travellers posting in their own

carriages must send them round from

St. Martin or Ghamouni to Martigny,

if they intend crossing the Tete Noire

or Col de Balme.

Geneva is left for Ghamouni by
the Grande Place and the new quarter
on the site of the levelled Forte de
Kive. For some miles the road is
lined with neat villas and gardens.

Chesne — on the Seime — is one of
the largest villages in the republic.
The road oflFers some fine views of
the 1. Voirons, rt; Mont Sal^ve,
the picturesque red Ghateau de Mor-
nex, and the range of the Jura.
Soon after leaving Ghesne, the road
crosses a little stream, the Foron,
which has its source in the Voirons,
and is the boundary between the ca|i-
ton of Geneva and the Savoy frontier.
A little beyond it, at Annemasse,
is the station of the French douane.
On the first rising ground beyond,
the Mdle, a conical mountain, is seen
in all its height, 6800 feet, partly
concealing the only hollow in the
range of mountains beyond, up which
the course to Ghamouni lies.

Beyond Annemasse the road runs
up the valley of the Arve, in which
the blanched stones mark by their
breadth how furious the river must
be after storms. A new road, well
engineered, and a handsome lofty
Inidge, efiect the passage of the
Menoge, nearly on a level, avoiding
the arauous descent and ascent of the
old road. It next passes over an ele-
vated plain, and soon reaches

The village of Nangy. A little
beyond there are some ruins on the
light; and, after passing Gontamines,
are seen those of the Chdteau of Fau-
ctgny^ that gives its name to the pro-
vince of Faucigny. The road now
passes so near to the M6le, that this
mountain is an imposing and beautiful
object. Upon it an obelisk has been
built — one of the points in a trigono-
metrical survey of Savoy. Beyond

Gontamines the road declines. The
mountains which bound the Arve pre-
sent a bold aspect, and the entrance is
striking, through an avenue of trees, to

Bonneville {Inns: Gouronne; Ba-
lances), before the annexation to
France the chief place in the province
of Faucigny; it is in the diocese of
Annecy, and had a prefecture. The

Sopulation, once 3000, has gradually
windled to 1500.

The top of the Mole may be reached
from this in 3^ hrs.

A road leads over the hills from
this place to Annecy; thence Railway
to Aix les Bains (Rte. 152).

At the end of the stone bridge,
built 1753, over the Arve, is a
Golumn erected in honour of Garlo
Felice, and in gratitude for his hav-
ing added to the security of their
town by the formation of strong em-
bankments, to restrain the furious
Arve. It is surmounted by a statue
of the King, and is 95 feet nigh.

The road now lies between the Mole
and the Mont Brezon. the range that
on the right bounds the valley of the
Arve, which is here rich in culti-
vation. The road, after some time,
undulates, and passes through the
villages of Yaugier and Scionzier ; be-
yond which the valley widens. Here
the Arve is joined by the Giffre;
a torrent that descends from the
Buet, flows through the valley of
Sixt, and by the town of Tanninges.
(See Rte. 143.) Scionzier lies at the
mouth of the Valine du Reposoir.

The road continues close under the
Brezon until its precipices frown over
the route near Gluses.< Here, crossing
the Arve, on a stone bridge, it enters

Cluses {Inns: Farfaite Union; Ecu
de France), an old town. Pop. 1600^
was almost all burnt down in 1843,
but has been rebuilt, away from the
mouth of the gorge, in which it ori-
ginally stood. The wind, issuing as
from a furnace-blast bellows out of
this gorge, used to foment any acci-
dental fire into a general conflagra-
tion, and from this cause Gluses has
suffered many times.

392

ttOtJTE 138. — MAGLAK. ST. MAtttm.

Sect. It.

Many persons are employed in
watchmaking, for which this town
was more celebrated in the last
century. The Cluses artizans prepare
movements in a rough state, for the
watchmakers in Geneya and in Ger-
many.

On leaving Cluses, the road is car-
ried through the defile on the borders
of the riyer, and beneath grand Al-
pine precipices. The valley is very
narrow, nearly all the way to Maglan,
and, in some places, the road is strait-
ened in between the river and the
bases of precipices, which actually
overhang the traveUer. The banks
of the river are well wooded, and the
scenery is as beautiful as it is wild.

Before arriving at Maglan, the pre-
cipices on the leu retire a little, form-
ing an amphitheatre, which is filled,
nearly hal^>way up, with the dehris of
the mountain. At the top of this
talus, 800 feet above the valley, the
Grotto of Balme is seen, to which a
mule-path leads, which is undistin-
guishable below. At a little hut in
the hamlet of La Balme, mules are
kept for a visit to the grotto.

Those who intend to go on to Cha-
mouni, should not waste any time
here; for 2 hours are consumed in
seeing the cave. It enters the moun-
tain more than 1800 feet; but the
view from it, owing to the narrovmess
of the valley, is limited. The peaks,
however, of Mont Douron, seen on
the other side of the valley, are re-
markably fine in form.

Maglan lies below the lofty moun-
tains on the right bank of the Arve;
the commune, which is straggling,
contains nearly as many inhabitants
as Cluses. About 1^ lea^e beyond
Maglan, the road passes close to one
of the highest waterfalls in Savoy,
that of Nant d*Arpenaz; the stream is
small, and before it reaches half its
first descent it is broken into spray,
yet its shape is very graceful, and
after being nearly dissipated and dis-
persed over the face of the precipice.
It reforms after reaching the slope or
talus of soil and stones which it has
brought down, and rushing across the
road oeneath a bridge, it flows into

the Arve. The rock of brown lime-
stone, from which it descends, is re-
markable for its tortuous stratifica-
tion, forming a vast curve. fhe
route from Geneva is so much fre-
quented by strangers in the seasoiiy
that it is Deset by all sorts of ra^a-
bonds, who plant themselves in the
way openly as beggars, or covertly
as' deuers in mineral specimens,
glides to things which do not require
their aid, dealers in echoes, by firing'
small cannon where its reverberation
may be heard 2 or 3 times. These
idle nuisances should be discounte-
nanced.

The valley increases in width, and
rich fields spread up the base of the
Douron; on the 1. the peak of the At"
yuiUe de VarenSj or V^ran, rises nearly
8000 ft above die level of the sea.

8t, Martin — Ttms: Hotel du Mont
Blanc, good, better than any at Sal-
lenches; B. 2^ ft*., Br. with beefsteaks,
2 fr., D. 4 fr. ;— Croix Blanche.

Within a hundred yards of the inn
a bridge crosses the Arve, and leads
to the town of Sallenches, half a mile
from St. Martin. From this bridge is
a noble vieuo of Mont Blanc : the actual
distance to the peak is more than
12 miles in a direct line, yet so sharp,
and bright, and clear is every part of
its stupendous mass, that the eye
of one unused to such scenes is utterly
deceived, and led to underrate the dis-
tance. On looking up the valley over
the broad winter-bed of the Arve,
however, objects recede, and ^ve the
accustomed impressions of distance :
above this rises the mountain of the
Forclaz, its sides clothed with pines,
and its summit with pasturage. Over
these are seen the Aiguille du Gout^,
the Dome du Goute, and the head
of the loftiest mountain in Europe,
propped by ridges of aiguilles, and
the intervals of these filled with
glaciers.

Sallenches {Inns : Bellevue ; Le"
man), about 36 m. from Geneva, is a
little town of wide, straight streets,
containing about 2000 Inhab., risen
out of the ashes of one which was

jPied^' ^ Sawy, eoute 138. — BATtis ob* St. geIivais.

393

totally destroyed by fire on Good
Tridav, 1840. It broke out while
every Dody was at churchy and, thus
got abeaa before it could be checked.
many lives were lost

At St Martin, or Sallenches, local
cal^hes, chars, mules, and guides
for Chamouni are found in abun-
dance. A cAar to Cbamouni (without
return) costs 12 £rs.; with 2 horses
18 frs. Postilion, pourboire, 2 frs.
extra. The tariff of the Post-book
should be consulted; it is the same in
both places.

TraTcUers are conveyed hence to
Chamouni in open landaus or ba-
rouches, drawn by 2 horses, and carry-
ing 4 inside and 2 out, with luggage.
Though the distance is not 18 Eng.
SL, it takes up 4 or 5 hours.

The baths of St Gervais are
scarcely worth the detour required,
but the pedestrian who intends to
Tidt Chamouni and return by Geneva
is advised to go from St Martin up
the right bank of the Arve to Ch^de,
Servoz^ and Chamouni, and return
by the Col de Forclaz, and the Baths
of St Gervais. If, however, the tra-
veller should not intend to return by
the valley of the Arve, he can go
round by the Baths of St Gervais to
Chede, or cross the Col de Yosa to
Chamouni.

[From Sallenches the distance along
a level road to the baths of St, Gervais
is about 5 m., and an agreeable
drive, f^om the views presented of
the peak of Varens, which overhangs
St if artin and the valley of Maglan.
The road turns abruptly on the right
into the gorge of the Bon Nant,
a stream which descends firom the
Bonhomme to the Baths of St, Qer^
vais, with a boarding-house (com-
plaints of the management have been
made of late years; English travellers
prefer H. duMont Joli, on the heights
above, descending daily to bathe), in
a beautiful valley, where accommo-
dation may be had en pension * hot
mineral baths for the sick, and delight-
ful walks around for the convalescent.
The waters are at 105° temperature;
the heat of Bath with the qualities
of Harrowgate: they contain iron and

sulphur. At the back of the house^
a little way up the glen, is the very
fine Cascade da Bon Nant, which)
though not large, is extremely pic-
turesque. The views from above
St Gervais are very fine, though the
higher Alps are concealed; but the
limestone range of the Aiguille de
Varens, above St Martin, is singu-
larly picturesque in its outline and
detail.

The glen is a cul'de'sac; for chars
there is no leaving it upward; it ia
necessary to return to the entrance,
where two roads branch off — one,
very steep, leads up to the village of
St. Gervais, in the Val Mon^oie (with
an excellent hotel and pension, If,
du Mont Jolif 2200 ft. above the sea ;
pension 7 frs. a day, and very good),
through which the Bon Kant flows,
until it falls into the gulf behind
the baths, above St Gervais. This
road continues through the villages
of Bionay and Tresse to Contamines,
and the pass of the Bonhomme* (Bte.
139.)

Tne other road at the entrance of
the glen of the baths of St. Gervais,
after skirting a little way the moun-
tain base below the Forclaz, leads
across the valley of the Arve, and
falls into the char-road to Chamouni
near Chgde^ 2^ m. from the baths.

From St. Gervais to Chamouni there
are 2 mule-paths over the mountains
— ^by the Col de Voza, a pass of great
interest, on account of its noble view
of the chain of Mont Blanc, 5 hrs.
walk; by the Colde la Foi-claz, shorter,
but less interesting.]

St, Martin to Chammni,

The valley of the Arve above St
Martin and Sallenches spreads out
into a wide flat plain, having the ap-
pearance of a drained lake-basin.
Terrible traces are still to be seen
of the flood of 1852. Magnificent
views open out from time to time all
the way to Servoz. At the little
hamlet of

Chide, the road steeply ascends
above the broad plain of the Arve.
Near to Chede there is on the left a

EOUTB 138. — SERVOZ. tES OtJCflES. BOSSONS, Sect. H.

fine cascade, which travellera, who
start at 5 A.M. for Chamoiuii, gene-
rally visit for the sake of the beautiful
iris that then plays over it

[From ChMe there is a path over
the mountains in about 8 hrs. to Sixt,
by the Fointe de Flatee and the chalets
ofLa Sale (Rte. 143).]

After attaining a considerable
heiffht, the road traverses the bed of
a little lake, the Lac du Chede; in
which, as in a mirror, in former days
a fine view of the summit of Mont
Blanc, towering over the lower range
of mountains, was reflected; this was
one of the little " lions" in the ex-
cursion to Chamouni; but a debacle
of black mud and stones descended
in 1837, and filled it, and the lake of
ChSde is no more.

The road, still rising above the
spot where the lake was, turns into a
oeep recess of the mountain side, to
cross the bed of a wild torrent, which
is apt to cover the road, after every
severe storm, with rubbish. From
this spot there is a descent through
a forest to

SenooK village (/nn; L*Univers,
tolerable). Here the horses are usu-
ally rested, and the traveller may
enjoy a glorious view of the summit
of Mont Blanc, which is concealed
nearer to Chamouni.

Here the minerals of Mont Blanc
are sold, but the collections at Cha-
mouni are larger.

[At Servoz, guides may be had to
accompany the traveller to the Buet,
one of the panorama-commanding
summits near Mont Blanc, and up to
the Col d^Anteme^ a mule-path leading
over into the Valley of Sixt (Rte.
143), a very interesting excursion.]

The mountain above Servoz abounds
in tertiary fossils.

From Servoz the road, after cross-
ing the torrent of the Dioza, which
descends from the Buet, near the
adit of a copper-mine, lies close under
the foot of Uie Breven, between this
mountain and the Arve, which issues
at Font Felissier from a fine gorge.
Near the Font Felissier, on a mound,

are the ruins of the Castle o£ St,
Michael.

After crossing Font Felissier an^-
other very steep and stony ascent
opposes the traveller's course, called
Les Montets: the road, an effort of
nature with little aid from man, Tvith
difficulty labours up its rocky slope.
The Arve on the L rushes do^vim. it
as by a staircase in constant leaps,
in places plnneing into ravines and
chasms, whose depth makes one shud-
der to look down. Arrived at the
top of this steep, you find yourself in
an upper story of the vafiey of the
Arve.

From the Montets, the enormovis
mass of Mont Blanc, now in dose
proximity, is magnificent; but the
summit can no longer be seen; it is
concealed by the vast Dome dii Goute.

The course from the Montets lies
through some fine meadows to

Les Oitches, the first village in the
valley of ChamounL

[Here diverge the path over the Col
de Voza to St. Gervais, and the Col
du Bonhomme (Rte. 139).]

Even from Les Montets, the white
lines of glaciers (§ 16) are seen to
extend themselves into the valley.
The first is that of Taooney, which is
2 m. up the valley above Les Ouches :
it is, however, so mere a line com-
pared with the vastness of other ob-
jects around, that the traveller will
probably be disappointed in its appa-
rent size. Numerous torrents are
passed, descending furiously from the
glaciers of Mont Blanc, and cutting
deep channels. It is no easy matter
to maintain the parapets and bridges,
which are liable to oe carried away
by every storm. The valley now ex-
pands considerably.

About half a league beyond the
stream from the glacier of Taconey,
is the hamlet of Bossons, and near it
the glacier of Bossons, which stretches
further out into the valley than any
other. It is a beautiful object at a
distance, and deserves close examina-
tion on account of the purity of its
ice and the elegant and fantastic forms
of its ice pyramids. The Pavilion, at
a very short walk from the high road.

Piec?*- ^ Savoy.

ROUTE 138. — CHAMOITNI.

395

somznands an excellent view of the
j-lacier.

{^2 m. below ChamOuni is a path
Jrt.) by which you- may visit the Gas-
caxie clu Dard,^

A. little above tiie*glacier of Bos-
sons the Arve is crossed, and the
road continues on its right bank. At
tihe head of- the. valley is seen the
~ Olacier du Bois, the' liargest in the
valley, the terminus, in fact, of the Mer
de Glace. This lies, however, a league
beyond the village of Chamouni

Chamouni. Inns: Hotel Royal de
VXJnion — two houses belonging^ to
the same proprietor;, that on the S.
side of the river has the best rooms;
— Hotel de Londres et d'Angleterre
has also two houses; table d'hdte 4 £r.,
wine 1 fr. 50 c. : both these are' excel-
lent hotels ;— Hotel Imperial,' ■ most
comfortable, perhaps the best;— H;
du Mont Blanc,. good: visitors are
taken en pension at 8 fr. a day for
two meals. .

In August and- September the- inns
are frequently so full that travellers
arriving late at night l^ve the greatest
difficulty in obtaining accommodation.
The mineral warm baths, in the prin-
cipal inns, ofiPer the most refreshing
and agreeable luxury after the fatigue
of mountain excursions.
Banker, M. Nerond.
The English Church, opened 1860 by
the Bishop of Winchester, is a neat
and strong building of' granite,, hold-
ing 200 persons, erected at a cost of
1340/., chiefly from English subscrip-
tions. It stands outside the town on
1. of the road leading to the Montan-
vert.

Chamouni is now a large and im-
portant community (Pop. 2300), which
oisplays almost the hustle of an- Eng-
lish watering-place in what was once
the most retired of Alpine valleys.
With the exception, however, of the
enormous hotels which appear to have
been dropped there, the village, as
nioflt other Swiss and Savoy viUages,
retains its pristine appearance. Great
part of it was burnt in 1855.

The village of Chamouni, or Ze
Prievre, as it is sometimes called,
from a Benedictine convent esta-
[^SwitzJ]

blished here about the end of the
11th century, was known earlier than
is generally imagined. The original
act for founding the priory bears the
seal of Count Aymon, and a reference
to "Papa Urbano" (Pope Urban IL),
which fixes the date hetween 1088
and 1099— probably about 1090. This
deed conferred a grant of the Vale of
Chamouni, from the Col de Balme
to the torrent of the- Dioza near
Servoz — about 7^ leagues in. length,
by about 3 in breadth,, inclumiig
the mountain sides and slopes.. From
this document the origin of the
name of Chamouni may be: disco-
vered. The words Campus > Munittts,
champ muni, or fortified' field,' come,
perhaps,from its inountain boundaries;
but this name does not occur after the
adoption of' Frieiire, The first visit
recorded, of the Bishop of Geneva,
within whose - diocese Chamouni lay,
was in the 15th i cent.;, when, after a
sojourn with' the abbot of Sallenches,
he contiriued.his perilous journey, ac-
companied; by the abbot, hiis 2 omciat-
ing. clerical attendants, and some
menial persons, all on foot, to Cha-
mouni, where he . arrived as late as
Oct. 4, 1443.. In 1606 St. Eran9oi8
de Sales penetrated into this remote
corner, of his diocese. '

The first knowledge of Chamouni
was clearly not a discovery of Wynd-
hain and Pocock. With Geneva and
with' Germany the natives of Cha-
mouni had long • had much inter-
course, and their fairs, held at the
priory, brought many strangers. The
ordonmnce for establishing these fairs
was gran ted hy Philip of Savoy, Comte
of Geneva, and bears date 1530, and 3
years later he gave permission for the
establishment, of a weekly market,
which stiU exists. It was, however,
Messrs. Wyndham and Pocock's ex-
cursion to Chamouni, and their report
of it in the Moyal Society's Transactions,
in 1741, which aroused in England
general attention towards these retired
vnlds and most sublime scenery. They
are still held in honour at Chamouni,
and the stone where they are erro-
neoualy supposed to have slept at the
side of the glacier was called Pierre des

396

ROUTE 138.-*-*CHAM0UNl.

GUIDES.

Sect.

Anglais, and, hftving been broken or
destroyed, anotker stone hM been
plnoed there by tha Tillage with the
inscription '^rooock eft Wyndham,
1741.^ 8anasnie's first visit took place
1760.

The QrUdea, mules, and all affairs
oonneeted widi them ere regulated by
the state. They are placed under the
management of a^iie en ohef, and ruled
by an elaborate code of laws and tariff
of charges, which all must obey. By
these regulations more thsin 200
men are enrolled as guides^ supposed
to be selected for their inteUieence,
and the excellence of the certincates
given to them by employers satisfied
with their oondoet. To the bureau of
the guide en chef application must be
made for g^uides. The men are in-
scribed in a book, and subjected
to an examination as well as the
mules : each takes his turn (tour de
role), and if a guide be taken out of
his turn a fine of 25 £r. is levied on
himt but by the new and. improved
regulations now in fi>roe travellers
w£o can prove that they have expe*
rienoe of Alpine ascents, members of
the Alpine Club, &c., are exempt
from these vestrictiona, and are u-
lowed to choose their own guides if

1. They desire to undertake ^ ex-
traordinary" expeditions.

2. If engaged in scientific pursuits.

3. If they do not know French, and
require a guide to speak a language
they know.

4. If tliey desire to re-engsge a
gnide they have had in former years.

5. Ladies, unaccompanied by a
gentleman.

The Es^Gunions about Chamounix
are divided into Coureea Ordinadree and
Extraiordinavre$y for all of which there
aite charges fixed by tariff, which the
traveUevs should obtain from the
^uide en chef.
a. Cascade du Davd and Glacier des

BoesoBS, 4 fr. 50 c.
6. and/. Montanvert, Mer de Glace,

Arveiron, 6 fir.
d. Croix de m^g^, 6 fr.
^ Do. with Chapeau in 1 day, 12 fr.

0. Jardin and back by the Chftpiei^

12 fr.
A. Col de Bolme, 6 fir.; with C»0c»dfl

of B^rard and Barberfne in t

day, 9 fr.
Col de Balme, and back hy Tell

Noire, 9 fr.
j, Buet, and descent to Sixt iu 1 da|^

15 fr.; 2 days, 20 fr. (gaide fit

return, 8 fr.); BvU, by Brevieil

and Col d'Anteroe* in 1 daa,

18 fr.
e. Brevent, by Plainprass. 8 fr.; frcm

Fl^gi^re.
Martignv, by Col de Balme or

Tdte Noire, return included, 1 2 fr.
Courmayeur, by Cols de la Seign^

or Bonhomme, in 2 day^, 15 fr.;

3 days, 20 fr. (return of g^nide,

12 fr.).
N.B. — The charge for mnlea is
geneirally the same as for gulden.

Courses Extraordinavres,

t. Ascent of Mont Blanc, 100 fir.

Grands Mulets and bsck in 1 d^y,
20 fr.
k, Courmayeur, by Col d^ 0^ftiit»

60 fr.
/. Tour of Mont BUnc, 10 fr. a-d«v^.

N.B.— rThose who are strong sioot
and pressed for time may a^ic^ad thte
Montanvert early in the morning,
cross the Mer de Glace to the Cha-
peau, descend to Source of Aryeiron
(5 hrs.), thence asc^d the Flj^g^re,
and enjoy the sunset view of Mont
Blaae chain (also 5 hrs. np aWd
down).

Persons not aof^istomed to quHuir
tain riding will require a wtm. to
each mule, but those who can manege
their mules need only take 1 guid^ to
4 mules. No bonnemain is expeotsA
About 300 horses and nuil^s are kept
at Chamouni. Many of the Ckunfnmi
gtUdes are first-rate mountaineers, and
at the *same time superior in educa-
tion and manners to most men of thsor
station in life. Most of theso ai*
usually engaged during the smmoflr
in distant expeditions, in which tbc^
are enga^ied for seveiftl weeks sr
months with the jsame traveller.

Biead, eold meat, and wine, or
odier n^freshmenta, should be taken

JPied^ Sf Savoy. RTE. 138. — CASC, DtT DAJU). MOifTANVEBT.

by tbe guide to th^ Jarctiii, the Mont
Breven, or other distant exoursions.
i^lej^rli Tf^es, Augusts Balmat, and

Co., keep a shpp i^ the sale of caryed

iw'ood, polished stores, crystals, &Cp

397

j:j^<3I7BSIO»S AROUND OIUMOUUI.

•* ^^^ Above we wc% tbe Alps,
The Valace« pf Nature, w))06e vast walls
Have piimacled in cluucU t}ieir snowy scalps,
And tnroned Eternity in icy halls
Of oold sttblimity, where forms and Iklla
The AvvlaBohe, the thunderbolt of snow I
All tliat expan<^ the spirit, yet ^ppala,
Gather around tliese summits, as to show
How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave
vain man below.'*

a. When cloudy weather forbids
yoiiir thinking of excursions in which
a distant view is the chief object, a
visit to the Cascade da Dard may be
made.

This Casoade has superseded the
PHerins, Its situation is more pic-
turesque, and it is a little nearer Cfha^
mouni — about f of an hr. from the
village. It will well repay a visit
on %u " off day." Cross the bridge
and turn to the rt., and in less
than 10 min. you will find the path
divideat the second cluster of cottages.
Tak^ th^ L or upper one, which passes
a sort of little amphitheatre of ground
hollowed in the fields, and bear to
the ], towards and through a pine-
wood in a slanting and southerly
diwctioii, The path is tolerably clear,
and }^ads to the edge of a ravine of
huge boulders of granite, through
whie)i the stream which feeds and
flows frem the cascade, runs. Do not
croa^ this stream, but keep iip its
right si4e» and you will soon see
the Ghale$ of the cascade — at which
refreshments can he had — ^before
yoil, on the opposite side of the
stre^, tp which you must cross by a
plaoiu Then descend to the bottom
of the f^^ll by a path at the corner of
the ch^kt. The situatipn of this
Ga8ca4p ia chiumE)iQg> and well repays
a visit. You may return if you please
hy a p»th whifsh deseeods to the

village of Les Pelerins, or an easy and
pleasant walk of about ^ of an hr.
brings you to the Glacier aes Bossons.
The rock which occasioned the peculiar
shape of the cascade des Pi^erins has
been carried away by the torrent, and
the Pelerins is no longer worth a visits
From the Cascade du Dard there is
also a path which leads you in about
2 hrs. by a steep but safe ascent to
the Ch^et de la Pierre-Pointue, which
is the first stage on the Chamouni
route to the summit of Mt Blanc.
This is a pleasant walk, for the most
part through a pine and larch forest,
with fine and near views of the Glacier
des Bossons on your 1., and of the
Br^vent and the Aiguilles Bouges on
the opposite side of the valley.

6. The Montanvert, — This is gene-
rally the first, often the only excur-
sion made from Chamouni. The ob-
ject of it is to visit the Mer de Glace,
the great glacier which terminates in
the Glacier du Bois, and the source of
the Arveron, in the valley of Cha-
mouni. There is a mule-road, and the
inn or pavilion on the Montanvert
may be reached on mules in 2 hrs. :
to descend takes about 1^ hr. No
occasion for a guide except to show
the way, which is very easy to find.
To go to ike Montanvert you cross
the Arve and keep to the 1. over the
meadows, by a path which traverses
the valley to the foot of the mountain,
where the path rises above the valley,
through the forest of pines skirting
the base of the mountain, in some
places rather steep; when onee in the
wood it is not easy to miss the way.

Occasional openmgs among the trees
afford peeps into the valley of the Arve
up and down, of the Flegere and Breven
opposite, and mark the height rapidly
attained. Sometimes the path crosses
the channels of winter avalanches.
As you mount higher, that gigantic
obehsk of granite, the Aiguille de Dru,
peers down upon you from above the
pine-tops, and becomes a most striking
feature in the sceme.

An InUy or Pavilion, affording li-
mited sleeping accommodation (3

U 2

-y'

i^ trru I i*

lOCn. MCSTAXmr. TSEXABXCIL

fci!!f( ^7* tW w>9ttkr jrnrLft, Dkviii
)»Ht Iwdic «%r,.A. tak^jfid "^Clidks^aui <ie

T^ .viall ffKiKX iiBdknT «««;rkj wiL.j& ib-

▼<^tig»lhig the t&MTJ of g^^*^^"^

Tlw tim is a e*x:<i

m^j^i

Matifm if ft Tultiik^ tbe hi^lMr part of
tb« JfcT de Gbb», Jardin, Itc. ; al-
Xhffti^ thfr thftrmr^ateter vmienwes
%tnk% to ;9^ Falir. in SepC Prot
l^orbes determined its lieig;fat above
the sea'krTel at •> w^i ft.

From the HontaoTert the Her de
Glaee is seen toan extent of 2 leases
up the vali^T, towards the Mont Pe-
nad«s and the Aij^illes of Lechand,
on etUier side of which a branch ex-
tends ; that on the &W« forming
the Ohcier dn. Q&mi^ that extending
neailr dne B. is the GUmier d« Le-
chmd, which again divides, sending
off to the Eu the Ghmer da ToTefre.
The Tiew of this enormoos sea of ice
is one of the most striking scenes of
wonder, bat iu great extent, from the
vast size of erer^r obiect about it, is not
anpreciatedat first. I>irectl7 across the
Mer de Glaee are some of uie finest of
those pinnacled mountains which form
so striking and peculiar a feature in
the Chamouni scenery. The nearest
is the Aiguille de Dm, and further on
to the rt. is the Aiguille du Moine. A
thousand nameless pinnacles pierce
the clouds between them, and seem to
prop the loftiest of this stupendous
mass, which is the Aijniille Verte,
rising more than 13,000 n. above the
level of the sea, and nearly 7000 ft.
above the Montanvert Immediately
below the Montanvert is the Pierre
des Anglais. As you ascend to the
Montanvert, there are frequent open-
ngs in the wood which afford fine
ws of the Br^vent and the Aiguilles
i|^s, which well deserve attention;
observe, too, the beautiful swelling
ns of wood, separated from each
* by tho courses of the mountain

halfai

fCiU

V to see mor; aad to

Bovei feeixBg of waDdng om

and finding the

npoB the ice, will
' the Chapean '^j,

be sent round to

the foot of the du^eaa.

of thegiaeier ocgnpies

hoar, andinotdinary

no dai^er. Each Uj will require 1

guide to assist, and Aegvides geneiallj
I make an extra demand in' so doing
; Those who do noi cross the glacier wlL
> retniB from the Montanvert by th€
i mole-path, whidi may be kft about \
; an hr. from the top, and by a verj
: steep descent, called /IKoz, the source
■ of uie Arrcnm (/) may be reached

If this path is taken, the mules shonU

be sent on to meet the travdlers st
, LesPres.

I c. The Jardm, — ^Those who wish tc
cross the Mer de Glace, and visit tbt

; Jardin, on the Glacier de Taldfr«, m
of the most sirikmg excursions in the urhok
range of the Alps, may either sleep ai
the Montanvert or take a mule up td
the top of it. Thence it is a walk d
4 hrs. to the Jardin, and 3 to retun
and the whole expedition, indadisg
halts, will occupy about 13 hrs. Pro-
visions can be ootained at the Montan*
vert. No person should go alone, aai
those not well used to the glacieis
should take a guide for each traveller.
Ladies who venture will require •
guides. The great object of the ex-
cursion is to enter more into the hetf
of Mont Blanc, to penetrate into io
profound valleys, and witness scens
of more savage solitude. Improre
ments in the path are projectecL Ai
in all glacier excursions, the diffi*

JPiecf- ^ Savoy. hootk 138.— chamdcsi. the jabdix.

culties to be encountered -nsrj witk
the state of the ice, the width o£ the
crevasses, and the preseoee or wkmrnce
of fresh snow.

The coarse taken is to fcOofw the L
or W. side of the Mer de Ghve, and
reach the base of the Aipulln de
Gharmoz, where, owing to the rarer
occurrence of creyasses, the Mer de ,
Glace can be crossed with safety.
^ hi;, afiter leaidng the MontaDTert is,
for beginners, the first difiknhj in ;
the journey, caUed •* Les Fonts." It j
is a narrow path cot in the sla^ side '
of a precipice; bnt the ledge, thoog^ •
narrow, affords perfectly good holdij^
for hands and feet. This oneedeaied, |
you descend upon the moratne, along ,
which yon scramble for about li| hr.; \
you then b^in to cross the ^ader. |
4 ridges, covered by moraines^ which '
lie in the direction of the glader, are
crossed. Beyond the 4th moraine a
point is reached where the glacier
splits into 2 great arms: 1 tomingrt.,
towards the Mont Blanc, takes the
name of Glacier du Geani; the other,
on the L, is called Glacier de LechcauL
Our way lies over the Lechand, nearly
1 J hrs. walk, until it comes in contact
with the lower extremity of that of
Tdefre, which here presents a very
striking appearance, m>m the disrup-
tion of the ice, and the vast and wild
masses and pyramids into which the
glacier has broken, in its abrupt
descent.

After leaving the glacier it is ne-
cessary to climb Ibe rocks of the Cou-
vercle, the base of the Aiguille du Ta-
lefre. The path lies nearlj^ up the face
of the rock, to climb which, in some
places, the hands are required, as
well as the feet. This part of the
passage is called the Egralets. Above
it, where the path is less steep, and
where there is some herbage, the tra-
veller, after walking a short distance
along the side of the Glacier du Ta-
lefre till he finds a place where the
glacier is smooth, crosses the glacier,
and reaches an oasis in this desert—
an island in the ice— a rock which is
covered with a beautiful herbage, and
enamelled, in August, with flowers—
this is the Jardin of this palace of na-

;iv^>

.— ^ It is abort 7 aews in «xtaB*»

and the lowest part is d^J '*> ft. abovf-
the level of ihe sea. Nothing «an
e!xc««d the grandeor and desotooia
of such a sp«>«, amidst the ovwrwhM*
ing sublimitT of the surroondinff ob-
jeeta, the A%mli«s of Charmom* Blai-
tiere, and the G^ant, and the MMNnnotts
«rlaciers that encompass them ; all
Vindicate the truth of the poet's d^
scriptiott, —

- Mout Blaac is tlie moou^ of mo«Bt»iB$;
Ther erowud him Wii« »^>,
On a throne of n>cks> ia » r^be of eio«*s
With a diadem of snow.**

In retaining firom the Jardin to
Chamonni it is not necessary to return
br the Montanvert. There is a path
called the Monrei running along the
opposite side of the Mer de Glace, over
the Uaend Moraine and descending
amm the Chapean. By taking this
coarse yon pass near those remarkable
phenomena of the Glacier, the ** Mou-
lins," and 3 pretty waterfalls, coming
down from the heights above. The
usual plan, however, is to descend bv
the Egralets, and thence to walk
down the glacier and look into the
"Moulin," where a glacier torrent
falls into frightful caverns of ice. then
keeping towards the 1. to get upon
the moraine again, and so return to
the Montanvert,

If the traveller be not pressed tor
time, and have a taste for such sublime
scenes, he may, by sleeping at the I a-
villon, enjoy these in a high degi-ee,
by exploring, after a descent from the
Jardin, the upper part of the Mor de
Glace and the Glacier de Lechaud:
for this there will be time enough,
and even to make collections of plants
and minerals, which are highly inte-
resting ; the former at the Egralets
and on the Jardin, and the latter
on the Moraines of the Glacier ot
Tal^fre, and on the E. side of the
Mer de Glace. The next morning,
instead of returning by the beaten
road to Chamouni, the traveller may
explore the bases of the Aiguilles be-
tween the Mer de Glaco and Mont
Blanc, and crossing with caution the
Glacier du Pelerin, descending fror

398 RTE. 138. — CHAMOUNL MONTANVERT. THE JARDIN. Sect- IL

bed-rooms) and moderate fieure, has
been built on the Montanvert, and is
kept by the worthy- guide, David
Coutet. It has succeed to the
rude hut, composed of a boulder stone
and dry wall turfed over, beneath
which Saussure slept, and to the regu-
larly built cabin, called ** Ch&teau de
Blair," from the Englishman who
erected it, 1778-81. Here Professor
Tyndall spent many weeks while in-
vestigating the theory of glacier
movement. The inn is a good
station for visiting the higher part of
the Mer de Gla^, Jardm, &c. ; al-
though the thermometer sometimes
sinks to 39'' Fahr. in Sept. Prof.
Forbes determined its height above
the sea-level at 6303 ft.

From the Montanvert the Mer de
Glace is seen to an extent of 2 leagues
up the valley, towards the Mont Pe-
nades and the Aiguilles of Lechaud,
on either side of which a branch ex-
tends ; that on the S.W. forming
the Glacier du Geant, that extending
nearly due S. is the Glacier de Le-
chaitdf which again divides, sending
off to the E. the Glacier du Talefre.
The view of this enormous sea of ice
is one of the most striking scenes of
wonder, but its great extent, from the
vast size of every object about it, is not
appreciated at first. Directly across the
Mer de Glace are some of the finest of
those pinnacled mountains which form
80 striking and peculiar a feature in
the Chamouni scenery. The nearest
is the Aiguille de Drtty and further on
to the rt. is the Aiguille du Moine, A
thousand nameless pinnacles pierce
the clouds between them, and seem to
prop the loftiest of this stupendous
mass, vrhich is the Aiguille Vertef
rising more than 13,000 ft. above the
level of the sea, and nearly 7000 ft.
above the Montanvert Immediately
below the Montanvert is the Pierre
des Anglais. As you ascend to the
Montanvert, there are frequent open-
ings in the wood which afford fine
views of the Br^vent and the Aiguilles
Rouges, which well deserve attention;
and observe, too, the beautiful swelling
bosoms of wood, separated from each
other by the courses of the mountain

torrents, which are situated ixiider
that range.

Those who do not intend to cros
the Mer de Glace, should, at least,
descend upon it, to have a just idea
of its character, and should walk far
enough upon it, 50 or 100 yds., tx> ob-
serve dose at hand the intense blue
colour in the crevices, which cannot
be conceived when looking down from
a distance, on account of the stones and
soil which cover its surfiEice. Tliose
who wish to see more, and to enjoy the
novel feeling of walking on a glacier
and finding the sun intensety hot
upon the ice, will cross the glacier to
the Chapeau (g)y and the mules may
be sent round to meet the travellers at
the foot of the Chapeau. The passage
of the glacier occupies about half an
hour, and in ordinary seasons presents
no danger. Each lady will require a
guide to assist, and the guides generally
make an extra demand for so doing.
Those who do not cross the glacier w^iU
return from the Montanvert by the
mule-path, which may be left about -^
an hr. from the top, and by a very
steep descent, caiXLea FUiaz^ the source
of uie Arveron (/) may be reached.
If this path is taken, the mules should
be sent on to meet the travellers at
Les Pres.

c. The Jardin, — Those who wish to
cross the Mer de Glace, and visit the
Jardin, on the Glacier de Talefre, one
of the most striking excursions m the tjchok
range of the Alps^ may either sleep at
the Montanvert or take a mule up to
the top of it. Thence it is a walk of
4 hrs. to the Jardin, and 3 to return,
and the whole expedition, indudiog
halts, will occupy about 13 hrs. Pro-
visions can be obtained at the Montan-
vert. No person should go alone, and
those not well used to the glaciers
should take a guide for each trayeller.
Ladies who venture will require i'
guides. The great object of the ex-
cursion is to enter more into the heart
of Mont Blanc, to penetrate into i&
profound valleys, and vntness scenes
of more savage solitude. Improve-
ments in the path are projecte<L As
in all glacier excursions, Hie dUE-

• ^ Savoy. ROUTE 138.— ^jhamouni. the jardin.

399

eulties to be encountered varj with
tlie state of the ice, the width of the
crevasses, and the presence or absence
of fresh snow.

The coarse taken is to follow the 1.
or AV. side of the Mer de Glace, and
reach the base of the Aiguille de
GharmoZf where, owing to the rarer
occurrence of crevasses, the Mer de
Glace can be crossed with safety.
i hi;, after leaving the Montanvert is,
for beginners, the first difhculty in
the journey, called ** Les Ponts. It
is a narrow path cut in the slaty side
of a precmice; but the ledge, though
narrow, affords perfectly good holdine
for hands and feet. This once cleared,
you descend upon the moraine, along
which you scramble for about 1^ hr.;
you then begin to cross the glacier.
4 ridges, covered by moraineSf which
lie in the direction of the glacier, are
crossed. Beyond the 4th moraine a
point is reached where the glacier
splits into 2 great arms: 1 turning rt.,
towards the Mont Blanc, takes the
name of Glacier du Geant; the other,
on the L, is called Glacier de Lechaud,
Our way lies over the Lechaud, nearly
1^ hrs. walk, until it comes in contact
with the lower extremity of that of
Talefrey which here presents a very
striking appearance, ttom. the disrup-
tion of the ice, and the vast and wild
niasses and pyramids into which the
glader has broken, in its abrupt
descent.

After leaving the glacier it is ne-
cessary to climb the rocks of the Cou-
vercle, the base of the Aiguille du Ta-
lefire. The path lies nearly up the face
of the rock, to cUmb which, in some
places, the hands are required, as
well as the feet. This part of the
passage is called the Effralets. Above
it, where the path is less steep, and
where there is some herbage, the tra-
veller, after walking a short distance
along the side of the Glacier du Ta-
lefretill he finds a place where the
glacier is smooth, crosses the glacier,
and reaches an oasis in this desert —
an island in the ice — a rock which is
covered with a beautiful herbage, and
enamelled, in August, with flowers —
this is the Jardin of this palace of na-

ture. It is about 7 acres in extent,
and the lowest part is 9030 ft. above
the level of the sea. Nothing can
exceed the grandeur and desolation
of such a spot, amidst the overwhelm-
ing sublimity of the surrounding ob-
jects, the Aiguilles of Charmoz, Blai-
ti^re, and the Geant, and the enormous
glaciers that encompass them ; all
vindicate the truth of the poet's de-
scription,—

** Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains;
They crown 'd him long ago,
On a tnrone of rocks, in a rube of clouds,
With a diadem of snow."

In returning from the Jardin to
Chamouni it is not necessary to return
by the Montanvert. There is a path
called the Mmiret running along the
opposite side of the Mer de Glace, over
the lateral Moraine and descending
upon the Chapeau. By taking this
course you pass near those remarkable
phenomena of the Glacier, the " Mou-
lins," and 3 pretty waterfalls, coming
down from the heights - above. The
usual plan, however, is to descend by
the Egralets, and thence to walk
down the glacier and look into the
"Moulin," where a glacier torrent
falls into frightful caverns of ice. then
keeping towards the 1. to get upon
the moraine again, and so return to
the Montanvert.

If the traveller be not pressed for
time, and have a taste for such sublime
scenes, he may, by sleeping at the Pa-
vilion, enjoy these in a high degree,
by exploring, after a descent from the
Jardin, the upper part of the Mer de
Glace and the Glacier de Lechaud:
for this there will be time enough,
and even to make collections of plants
and minerals, which are highly inte-
resting ; the former at the llgralets
and on the Jardin, and the latter
on the Moraines of the Glacier of
Tal^fre, and on the E. side of the
Mer de Glace. The next morning,
instead of returning by the beaten
road to Chamouni, the traveller may
explore the bases of the Aiguilles be-
tween the Mer de Glace and Mont
Blanc, and crossing with caution the
Glacier du Pelerin, descending from

400

KOUtE 138. — FtfcGliRE, BBfiViiW.

Sect* n.

the AigttiUe dtt Mdi, he wiU find
himself on the brink of ft precipice
immediately oyerlooking the Glacier
dn Bossons, not far from the point
where it is crossed, opposite the
Grands Mulcts, in the ascent of Mont
Blanc. From this he will have a far
better idea, than from any other point,
of the real nature of the difficulties to
be encountered, and the magnificence
of the scenes to be enjoyed, in that
expedition. A very steep but beau-
tiful descent, chieny over herbage,
and parallel to the course of the
Glacier du Bossons, wiU lead him to
the valley of Chamouni, 2 miles below
the village, A short day only is ne-
cessary for this interesting excursion.

d. The JFlegere^—From the facility
with which this mountain can be
ascended, and the admirable view of
Mont Blanc which it commands, it is
the one most generally attained by
ladies. It may be accomplished on
mules the whole way, or part of the
way in a char by those who are afraid
of fatigue. The point attained lies ex-
actly opposite the Glacier du Bois, or
Mer de Glace ; and from no point is
the remarkable group of Aiguilles
which surround the Aiguille v erte
more finely seen. The Montanvert is
visited for the sake of its proximity
to the Mer de Glace ; the Flegdre,
to enjoy a view of Mont Blanc with
its attendant peaks and glaciers.
From Chamouni to the Fleg^re re-
quires only 2^ hrs., and about 2 hrs.
to return. The road that leads to it
lies up the valley, to the hamlet of les
Pres, where it turns off to the 1. to-
wards the Aiguille de Charlanods, one
of the Aiguilfes Rouges, where a steep
path up the bed of a winter torrent
commences and leads np to the pas-
turage of Pra de Viola. Thence a
good hour through a wood is re-
quired to attain the Croix de la Fle-
gdre, which commands a view of the
whole range, from the Col de Balme
to the furthest glacier that, below
Chamouni, streams into the vaUey,
which lies in a great part of its extent
in delicious repose beneath the ob-
server.

Within 2 minntes' walk of the Cross
is the C^dlet of Fleg^re, which affords
shelter in unfavourable Weather, and
where refreshment may be h<id, and
even beds for those Wlk) would await
the sunrise, and are not fiisddious;
charge high. The height of the Croix
de Flegere is 6350 ft., about 3000 ft.
above the valley. There is a pAth
from the Fleg^e to the Brereu,
rather tough in some pla^sesj but very
interesting; being, in fact, a lofty
terrace extending about 4 m., and
commanding a splendid view of the
Mont Blanc range.

If the traveller be pressed for time,
and can only visit one of the spots
of interest around Chamouni, it
should be the Montanvert ; if two,
that and the Flegere; unless he feels
capable of greater things, in which
cascj instead of the Flegere, h^ should
at once ascend the

e, Breven, — A compensating excur-
sion, attended with some fatigue, yet
easily practicable in 7 hrs., ^owin.^

2 hrs. on the tot*. A good walker wifi
ascend from Cnamouni to the top in

3 hrs. and descend in 2 hrs. A day
should be devoted to it, and will be
well spent. There is a good mule-path,
commencing behind 8ie Ch. of Cha-
mouni, by which you may ride in 2
hours to the chalet of Flanpra (two->
thirds of the ascent), wliere the mules
are left, and where refreshments may
be had.

Above Planpra, either a fati^ing
path may be taken, which is cut in
the rocks, or one that leads directly
up the pasturages, which, 'When dry,
are very slippery ; some patches of
snow are passed, and it is not uncom-
mon to ODserve the red fungus upon
it which Captain Parry noticed in the
high latitudes of his northern voyages.
At the end of an hour from Planpta,
the path reaches the base of a steep
rock, which it is necessary to climb by
La Cheminee, a sort of dpen fissure or
chimney, about 50 ft. high, in the
rock, nearly vertical, with rugged
points and edges to be grasped by
the hands, and hdles for the feet.
Above it the path is not steep, but

*«W- (J* Sawy. RoittE 138. — chamotjni. arveron.

401

lies otef stones and I'ocks, I'equiiing
sare and fame, to the sumikiii of
^e Bteven; this has an eletation of
ibout 8500 Elig. feet above the lerel
»f the sea, of 5000 above Chamouni,
lot mote than two-fifths of the height
y£ Mont Blanc above the valley. This
Elevation^ however, ofktii the finest
iriew of the whole mass of Mont Blanc
of all the numerous sites whence it
<5an be seen. Owing to this proJdmity
evefjr peak and glacier, and even
crevices in the glaciers, cati be dis-
tinguished, as well as every pastutage
and chalet oil the mountain side above
the pine-forests, and below the eternal
snows. It is a glorious view, ejctend-
ing over the entire range, with all its
aiguilles and glaciers, from the Col
de Balme to the Col de Vosa, for
the cross on one and the pavilion on the
other may be seen from the Breven.
J'rom the Buet, 2000 ft. higher, there
is a more extended horizon, but the
Breren conceals all the lower belts of
Mont Blanc ; and as the Buet is double
the distance from the peak of the
*• Monarch,** he is not so distinct, nor
offers a scene half so grand.

The tetuito to Chamouni mav be
varied by passing on the Vt, side of
the Breven, above the valley of Bio*
za, near to a little lake, then, de-
scending by the chalets of Calaveiran,
a path leiids down to les Ouches, in
the vaUey of Chamouni, and thence
up the talley to the priory, or the
tourist may return by the Fleg^re.

f. Source of thi ^rtyeron.— This afflu-
ent of the Arve issues from beneath
a vault or cave of ice with which the
Glacier du Bois and th^ Mer de Glace
terminate. Consequently the spot
has lost some of ltd interest. It
is a pleasant walk df about an hour
(3 m.), keepiilg the char-road to
Argeutiire, and up the valley as
far as les Pris^ where that to the
source of the Arveron turns off to
the rt., and passes the hamlet of
Bois, leading in about J an hour to the
source. The source may very con-
veniently be visited on descending
from the Fleg^re, or by a short cut
from the Montanvert, or on the way

td the Chapeau. The vault of ice
varies greatly in different seasons,
and at afferent times a change of from
30 to 100 ft. of height in the arch has
been remarked. At times it may be
entered, but with some risk, dwing to
the danger of blocks of ice detaching
themselves from the vault. In 179?
three persons tvere crushed.

The scenery around the Source is
very grand \ the deep blackness of the
depth of vault, the briffht and beauti-
ful azure where the light is trans-
mitted through the ice, are striking.
The enormous rocks brought down by
the glacier from the mountains above,
here tumble over and are deposited
in the bed of the Arve. Here, too,
the dark fol'est, and the broken trunks
of pines, add to the wild character of
the scene.

The advance and recession of the
glaciers depend upon the seasons.
If it be hot, a larger quantity of ice ^
is melted, while a wet season, by de-
positing a ffreater quantity of snow,
and diminishing the rate of melting,
causes the &;lacier to advance. Some-
times the cuflference is many hundred
feet. It is not more than 40 years
since the Glacier du Bois reached the
forests of pines, now passed through
in approaching to it.

g. The Chapeau is one of the points
of view over the Mer de Glace, on
the side furthest from Chamouni;
from it the Aiguilles of Charmoz and
Blaiti^re are seen immediately under
Mont Blanc, with the vale of Cha-
mouni, the Breven, and other vast .
and interesting objects; but its chief
interest lies in its proximity to the
Mer de Glace, wher^ the glacier begins
to break into pyramids and obensks
of ice, which are sometimes seen to
fall with a terrific crash. A visit to the
Chapeau may be accomplished either
on foot or with the mules- if you go
direct to it, you must ccntinue along the
valley as far as the village of Les Tines ;
and, after having passed this pictu-
resque spot, ascend a narrow foad on
the right hand that leads t6 the scat-
tered hamlet of Lavanche, continue
through this latter by a good mule-

403

ROUTE 138. — CHAMOUNI. CHAPEAU.

Sect. n.

path beside the glacier, until you
arriire at the foot of the ascent to the
Chapean. Here it is necessary to
leave jonr moles in care of a boy,
while the guide conducts you to a
cavern, where there is a chalet, above
which is the grass mound properly
called the Cnapeau: strangers in
general are satisfied with a visit to
the chalet, whence the view is unique
and very astonishing, displaying the
glacier split and fractured into the
needles on the verge of its descent
into the valley below.

On your return from the Chapeau
you descend by the same path as far
as Les Tines, whence there is a road
on the left to the hamlet of Les Bois,
situated at the source of the Arveron.
T^his excursion may be accomplished
in about 5 hrs., and will prove one
of the most agreeable and least fa-
tiguing that are made from Chamouni.

From the Chapeau the hut on the
Montanvert may be reached by at first
continuing to ascend on the E. side of
the glacier, to a spot where a path has
been hewn out of the face of^a preci-
pice, nearly perpendicular, called Jfatt-
imis Pas* Tnis was formerly difficult,
but steps have been cut, and an iron rod
fixed in the rock, to serve as a banister,
so that ladies pass daily without diffi-
culty. Descending by this path, the
moraine and then the glacier is
reached, which may be crossed to the
Montanvert (see 6).

In the month of July, when the
weather permits, a large number of
lieifers are driven from Chamouni,
each attended by its owner, to the
hut on Montanvert, for the purpose
of being conducted across the Mer de
Glace, to pass their summer of 3
months on the slopes of the moun-
tains that are near the Aiguille de
Dm. Before they are launched upon
the sea of ice, a number of peasants
precede them with hatchets and other
tools, in order to level such places as
may thus be rendered less dangerous,
although accidents generally attend
this transit At certain intervals men
are stationed to point out the line of
march; the operation, which requires
several hours, and is truly picturesque

to witness, is worthy the attention of
a stranger who should happen, to be at
Chamouni at the time: it is a kind of
fete or holiday, for men, women, and
children attend the procession, passing
the whole day on the mountain in the
full enjoyment of this extraordinary
task. One man remains on the oppo-
site side of the Mer de Glace, as
guardian to the herd, that i^ander
about in search of the rich but sc&nty
pastures of those imtenanted moun-
tains. He carries with him sufficient
bread and cheese to last one month,
which is renewed at the expiration of
that period, being carried to him by
some one interested in his welfare,
and is the contribution of those whose
heifers are under his care. He is
allowed one cow, which furnishes him
with milk:, knitting is his chief em-
ploy, and thus he passes his time of
expatriation in making stockings and
contemplating the wonders of nature
that surround him during 3 months
of the year.

h. Excursion to the Col de Salme and
Tete Noire and back without going to
Martigny, in about 9^ hrs., combin-
ing the chief beauties of boUi passes.
From the inn on the summit of the Col
de Balme (Bte. 142) turning L across
meadows marked with sneep and
cattle tracks, and bearing away gra-
dually to the rt you pass a small lake,
whence a rather steep descent brings
you in about an hour inunediately
above the valley of the Tdte Noire,
whence there is a magnificent view of
it and of the Eau Noire for a long
distance. The path now turns rt.,
and for h an hour skirts the edge of
the precipice until it arrives imme-
diately above the H. de la Tete Noire
(Ete. 141), to which it descends in zig-
zags. Tills may be done on mule-
back. A guide is necessary to find
the path. It is perhaps better to take
this excursion in the opposite direc-
tion, going first to the Tete Noire,
ascending to the Col de Balm^
and descending from thence to Cha-
mouni.

». The ascent of Mont Blanc is now

Pi'^^c?- ^ Savoy, rte. 138. — chamouni. ascent of mont blanc. 403

frequently made when the weather
is &Toarable for the expedition. The
mountain is now so well known, and
tlie proper precautions so thoroughlpr
TUiderstood, that little serious risk is
ii\cnrred- It should be generally
known, however, that those who make
tine attempt without a good deal of
previous training may suffer severely
from excessive fatigue, and are likely
to derive very little enjoyment from
the expedition. From the first ascent
in 1786, up to the end of 1852, 56
persons, exclusive of guides, had as-
cended. The summers from 1852 to
1 859 were very favourable ; 20 or 30
people made the ascent in 1854, and
many more in some subsequent years.
In 1860 no ascent was made, owmg to
the very unfavourable weather which
prevailed.

In 1838 a Mademoiselle d'Angeville
reached the summit, and when there
ordered the guides to lift her over
their heads, m order that she might
have been higher than any one else.
A Mrs. Hamilton went up in 1854,
A Swiss peasant girl has also attained
to the top.

In 1820 three glides were swept off
by an avalanche and lost, but when
Messrs. Fellowes and Hawes went
up in 1827 they took a course to
the left of the Koches Rouges, and
this has greatly lessened the risk of
the ascent by avoiding the most dan-
gerous part of it. In 1855 Messrs.
Kennedy and Hudson, and three other
Englishmen, ascended by a new route
from St. Gervais, and without anj'
gnides. For fear, however, that others
should think that they can follow this
example, it should be mentioned that
these gentlemen had spent several
seasons in mountain climbing, and
were experienced icemen, and had also
spent a long time in surveying and
discussing Mont Blanc, so that it was
tolerably well known to them. They
subsequently published an account of
the ascent, and also of an attempt
made by them to ascend from Cour-
mayeur.

Though the route is long and
&tiguing, Mont Blanc is not a very
dlfilcult mountain, and is far easier

than Monte Bosa, the Jung Frau,
Wetterhom, &c. The expense of the
ascent was,, until lately, about 25/.;
but for a party of 3 or 4 it is now
reduced to 100 frs. each.

The St. Gervais route is decidedly
more difficult than that from Cha-
mouni, and the failures have been
far more numerous than the suc-
cessful ascents by that route. It has
been preferred by some for its novelty,
and because it is much less expensive.
Mollard, Cuidet, and Octenier, all
living near St. Gervais, are recom-
mended as good guides.

The way from Chamouni first fol-
lows the rt. bank of the Glacier des
Bossons to the base of the Aiguille
du Midi; it then crosses the glacier,
and arrives near some rocks caUed the
Grands Mulets. Here it is customary
to pass part of the night in the hut
which has been built for the pur-
pose. Starting long before dayhght,
and ascending the Glacier of Taconay,
a comparative level of snow, called the
Grand Plateau, is reached : some time
afterwards the steepest part of the
ascent, called the Mvr de la Cote, is
found, up which it is generally neces-
sary to cut steps. Having remained
a short time on the top, which is a
narrow ridge about 200 yards long,
the descent is begun, and Chamouni is
usually reached on Uie same evening.

The excitement of sleeping out in
the mountain is part of the interest
of the adventure. This may, however,
be enjoyed by going to the Grands
Mulet% an excursion in which there
is no danger, and by sleeping there;
choosing a moonlight nignt and fine
weather to enjoy me extensive view,
the bright sky, and the thunders of
falling avalanches. Sleeping, it ap-
pears from those who have spent a
night there, is not so easy, owing to
the noise of the avalanches and the
bites of the fleas I A hut was erected
1853, by the guides, on one of the
ledges of the Grands Mulets. It
measures 14 ft. bv 7, and is a frame
of wood, composed below at Chamouni,
and carried up to the spot, with walls
of the rock, and 2 glazed sliding
windows. Its height is 10,000 ft. above

404

ROUTE 138. — BUET. COL DU oiANT.

Sect. H.

the sea-leyeL It is furnished with
a very simple stoye, but the cold is
nsualfy intense.

N.B. — Beilly's map of Mont Blanc
vfill be most usefuL '

k. Those who are fond of climbine '
may, by taking a steep path, ascenf '
ing immediately behitid the Hotel '
Boyal, mount up through woods and i
pastures in 1 hr. to the ch&lets of I
Blaiti^re dessous, thence keeping to >
the L) and after about ^ hr. turning '
to the rt., and crossing the torrent,
they will reach the chilets of Blaiti^re
dessus, and so fkr may be effected on |
mules. There is not much track after '
this, but keeping round a little lake,
and ascending through blocks of stone
and debris, an eUormous moraine is
reached, some 500 or 600 ft high; by
climbing up this the wild glacier of
Blaiti^re is reached (in 4 hrs. from
Chamouni), across which the Aiguille
of Charmoz may be ascended. Messrs.
Kennedy and Blackwell attempted, in
1854) to ascend the Aiguille of Blai-
tifere by this route. Mr. Blackwell
ascended to this glacier Deci. 1854,
and found less snow than In the
valley. By keeping to the rt after
leaving the little lake the foot of the
Aiguille du Flan may be reached,
whence there is a very fine view. The
Mont^nvert may be reached by a path
from the chdiets of Blaiti^re dessus.

L The Buet. This is A fatiguing
expedition, but the fatigue may be
much diminished by sleeping at the
chltlet of the Pierre a Berafd. After
leaving Argentlfere (Rte. 141) and
Trelechant you follow the Eau Noire,
and in 2 hrs. fl'om Argenti^re a little
plain and forest is reached, and in
1^ hr. more the Pierre a Berard is
found, ail isolated rock, to which point
mules can go. A chalet has been
built here, where beds and food can
be obtained. Anothef curious rock,
called Table au Cliantre, is then
passed, aild the track ascends, follow-
ing ridges of rocks find oVer beds of
sttow, tai in 3 hrs. from the Pierte
^ Berard this butumit (10,206 ft.) is

j^eaol^ed^ Qoparafti^ding ^ laprguiilcent

view. Tcrtl may descend eiihe:^ to
Seirvoz by the Chiflets de Villy, or
to Sixt in 6 hrs. By starting from
the Pierre a Berard iM the mormng,
Sixt may be reached in the evetiing^.
(Bte. 143.)

m. Another excursion may be made
by crossing into Piedmont, over the
Col du Geant, 11,146 ft ttbove the
sea. This expedition hfls acqtiired
new and painful interest from the
unfortunate accident whereby, in
the season of 1860, 3 English tra-
vellers, and one of their guides, F.
Tairraz, of Chamouni, Were lost in
the descent towards Cotirmayenr.
This melancholy occurrence may not
be without its use if it should deter
ttavellers not thoroughly tradned, and
in good practice, from attempting long
and diffidult excui'sions, especially in
bad weather; and if it should direct
increased attention to the trfecautipns
necessary in Alpine travelling. The
primary cause of the disaster wsis
doubtless the fact that the nnforo-
tunate travellers were exhausted by
fatigue, but the immediate cause was
the circumstance that the rope with
which the party were united together
was merely held in the guides' hands
instead of being attached round their
bodies. Except by Well-trained moun-
tainers, 2 guides should be taken for
each traveller on this as well as every
other difficult glacier excursion. The
passage was effected iu 1822 by 2
English ladies, Mrs. and Miss Oam{>-
bell, who, with 8 guideiS^ started itt
mid-day, August 18, sie|)t at the
Tacul, and descended the next day to
Courmayeur; and a Mrs. Hamilton
crossed in 1854. SaUssure remained
out many successive nights and days
engaged in experiments on the Col
du Geant; and durinsf the titohibitlon
of English goods by BuOliaparte,
smugglers crossed it fl'om Switzerlalid
to Itsdy laden with British muslins.

Ati hotel oti the MoUt B'fity, on
the Coutma^eut side, iS tlow open;
this would snorten the journey soiM
2J hrs.

The Tour of Mont Shm m»y b«

^ied^* ^ Sawy, BOUTE 139.— ohamottni to courmayeur.

S3aade in 7 d&ys. 1, 2, and 3» td Oour-

iKKiayeut (Rte. 139) j 4, to Aosta (Rte.

:i 34) $ 5, to the Great St. Bemdrd

(IRte. 136) J 6, to Mattigny (Rte. 135);

V, to ChamotitiL Of in 4 long daysj

:l_ and 2, to Courmayeui* (Rte. 139);

3, to Martigny, by the Col Fei^et

^:Bte. 137) ; 4, to ChamounL

A Chamouni guide coming td May*

-In^y is not allowed to proceed fluv

-fclier, bttt a local guide must be taken

-tlience. It is therefore best to end

tiliid tour at Martigny, whehce one

day's pay only need be given to a
Ide i^tuming to Chamoutii.

405

ROUTE 139.

CHAMOUIfl TO COUEMAYEim, BY Tfifi
COL DU BOKHOMMt: AND THi! COL
D£ LA SEiaiTE.

Hours.

Chamounl.

OdldeVoza . . .

OontamliMS . t

Nant Bourant • ,

BoDbomme . . ,

(^piii. . . .

Moftet • • » • 1

Seigna « . . . .

GourmayeuT . . ,

Mule<«path. A journey of 3 dayg:
Ist day to Contamiiles, 7 nrs*} 2nd day
to Chapid 7i hrs<$ 3rd day to Cou)*-
maydui*, 7^ hrs. A good and expe-
rienced guide is essential, and the
expedition should not be attempted
byladies except in settledfine weather.
A Btotit walker may accomplish this
route in 2 long days, sleeping at Kant
Bourant or the chalets of Mont Jovet,
and passing the Col du Four instead
of making the detour by Chapiti.
The accommodation at the chalets of
Naut Bourant is now very fair.
' From Chamounl the road to Ser-
vos is followed as far l»

Les OuoJtis, li h., where a path
strikes 1. up the mountain side in steep
Sigsags, until, within sight of the
ch&lets de la Forclaz^ it is joined
(rt.) by the path from St. Gervais
(Rte, ld8)» and in 2^ hrs< reaches the

Col de Volsa^ nearly 6000 ft. above the
«ed,4eveL The Pavilion de Bellevue,
ejected on it, commands a splendid
view up the vale of Chamouni, and
of the Aiguilles towards the Qol
de Bttlme. This has been lately en-
latged^ aUd supplies {bod And toW
able beds, but t^e charges are exw
toi^onate. A Bteet^' descent' leadq
dowi^ into the faf d^ ^#-g^ ^

406

ROUTE 139. — COL I)U BONHOMME.

Sect.tt

long valley stretching N. and S. and
invaded on its E. side by the grand
^r lacier de Btormassay, sweeping down
from the W. flank of Mont Blanc, and
presenting amidst rocks and snows
a wild and savage aspect. The
stream issuing from it must be crossed
by a wooden plank bridge, a little
below the spot where it issnes from
the glacier. If you miss this bridge
you will be sorely puzzled to get
across. From it you traverse the
meadows by a direct path, through
Champely rounding the extremity of
the spur from Mt. Blanc, which
bounds the S. side of the valley, and
entering the Yal Montjoie near the
village of Tresse.

The glacier torrent of Bionnassay
joins the Bon-Nant, the stream which
flows throu^ the Val Montjoie, near
the village Bionnay, 1 J hr. from the
Col, traversed by a mule-path from
the Baths of St Gervais (Rte. 138) to
Contamines, 2^ hrs.' walk.

The views presented of Val Mont-
joie are very fine, extending upwards
to the Bonhomme, while opposite is
seen the pretty village of St. Nicholas
de Veroce, at the base of the Mont Joli.
If hr. from Bionnay is

Contamines (^Tnns : H. TUnion, good;
H. du Bonhomme; better accommo-
dation than elsewhere on the road),
a large villa£^ with a handsome
Church, prettify situated on a com-
manding height above the valley.
The traveller going on to Nant Bou-
rant to sleep, should inquire what
number of travellers are gone ahead.

[From Contamines an interesting
excursion may be made to the Glacier
of Tfclatete. From thence it is pos-
sible to reach Motet by a shorter but
more difficult way than the Bon-
homme, passing between the Aiguille
de Bellaval and that of ^chellette.
A pavilion has been built close to the
glacier, from whence the Aiguille de
Beranger may be ascended in 4 hrs.]

The path aescends from Contamines
to the side of the Bon Nant, which it
<!rosses by a bridge near the hamlet
and saw-mills of Fontet; rt. runs a
path to the chapel of Notre Dame de

la Gorge, situated at the end of a
ravine — a cul-de-sac at the base of
Mont JolL On the FSte of tlie As-
sumption (Aug. 15) thousands o£ pea-
sants resort hither from the neigh-
bouring valleys, on a pilgrimage to
the chapel.

A very steep and rudely-pave<i path
leads directly out of the ravine, step-
wise, and through a forest : the bare
rocks in the path, and the large
stones which fill up the interstices,
make this a difficult road for mules,
and a fatig^uing one to men. It leads
in less than 2 hrs. to the chalets and
pasturages of

Nant Bowrant (a small Imiy with 7
or 8 beds ; extortionate, unless you
bargain). Here the torrent is crossed
by a stone bridge. The gulf through
which it rushes has a fearful depth ;
and a little way down, below the
bridge, the water falls into a still
blacKer and deeper ravine, forming
the Nawt, or cataract of the Bourant ;
it is difficult from above to get a
view of its furious descent.

The finest fall on the Bonnant is
one seldom seen, a short ^ hour from
these chlilets, on that branch of the
stream which descends from the gla-
cier of Trelat^te. It is not necessary
to return from thence to the chalets
in ascending the Bonhomme.

Above the chalets the valley is very
narrow, the road passing through the
forest, which belts and clothes the
base of the Mont Joli; at length it
enters upon the pasturages, which are
rich, though scanty from the quantity
of stones and rocks that abound.
After rising above the d&ms which
have fallen from the mountains, the
path winds up to the

Chalets of Mont Jovet, 1^ hr. frt>m
Nant Bourant, where the traveller usu-
ally rests and obtains the refreshment
of oread, wine, and milk. A room has
been fitted up with beds, and a traveller
by sleeping here may divide the journey
toChamouni; but the traveller should
arrive early, or secure the room before-
hand, and meat be brpught, as none
can be got. Between Nant Bourant and
these cnalets huge masses of glaciers

*ied^' Sr Savoy, rte. 139. — CROix du bonhomme. chapi&.

407

^:x.tend down the S. W. flanks of Mont
anc } and immediately above them
the vast glacier of Tr^atete.
'X'lxis, and the black rocks which sup-
port it on one side of the valley, and
tilie precipices and debris over which
-there is a pass to the valley of Haute
3L<xice on the other, almost enclose
these chalets as in a deep basin. Up-
-^ard, the valley is closed by the Bon-
liomme; and, on looking back, the
"whole length of the Val Mont Joie is
seen bounded by the peaks of the
"Varens above St. Martin.

From the chalets of Mont Jovet the
path leads up a steep acclivity which
overhangs the depths of the valley.
As the mountain is ascended, it be-
comes more and more sterile; the
pine does not grow so high as the
chalets, and on the next terrace
above them, called the Plan des
Dames, the rhododendron is the largest
shrub that flourishes. On the Plan
there is a cairn, a heap of stones,
which has existed from time inmie-
moriaL Tradition says, that a great
lady with her suite perished here in a
storm, and gave name to the fatal
spot; every guide adds a stone to the
cairn, and requests the traveller to do
so, from some feeling of awe asso-
ciated with it as a duty.

From the Plan des bames the path
leads up herbless slopes and over
some patches of snow, to reach what,
from below, seems to be the coL On
the left, wild and abrupt precipices
rise: and two of the peaked rocks
there bear the name of the Bonhomme
and the Femme du Bonhomme.

The crest, however, which lies close
to these pinnacles is that of the Col
de la Sauce, across which a path leads
down to Maxime de Beaufort, and
the whole course of the valley of
Beaufort to the Bourg is seen before
and below the traveller. On looking
back, too, the valley of Mont Joie is
seen in all its length ; and there is a
glorious vista of Alpine peaks.

The passage of the Col du Bon-
homme (8195 ft.) is at times dangerous
in bad weather, owing to its exposure
to the W. wind, which stirs up those
fearful snow-eddies called "tour-

mentes" upon this outlier of the Alps.
A guide should be taken if there is the
least prospect of bad weather. On the
13th of September, 1830, two English
gentlemen perished in a snow-storm
whilst crossing it — the Kev, Eichard
Braken, aged 30, and Augustus Camp-
bell, aged 20.

The path to the Col du Bonhomme
turns on the; left from the Col de la
Sauce, behind the pinnacles of rock,
and, ascending but slightly by a loose,
swampy, pathless slope, reaches in an
hour the

Croix du Bonhomme, 8195 ft, above
the sea level. — Forbes, From it, the
beautifdl Mont Pourri, one of the
most elegant snow-clad peaks in the
Alps, in the Val Is^re (Rte. 148), is
finely seen.

From the col three routes branch
off: that on the L conducts, by the Col
du Four, to Motet; a middle course,
rarely followed, leads to the Hameau
du (jlacier; while that on the rt.
leads down, in 1^ hr., to the chalets
of Chapiu, over a broken swampy
ground. The Col du Four (8891 ft.},
reached by the path on the L from the
Col du Bonhomme, leads to Motet an
hour sooner than by the detmtr to
Chapiu, but the road rises 800 ft;,
higher, and the descent is much
more fatiguing; the accommoda-
tions, too, at Motet, are worse than
those at Chapiu : it is, however,
often taken, for the sake of gaining
time, by those who go to Courmayeur
from Nant Bourant in one day. The
track to Chapiu is less fatiguing, but
it is easily missed, and a guide is
almost indispensable.

Chapiiu Inns, H. du Soleil, best,
but homely; H. des Voyaeeurs. By
descending from hence the Val de
Bellaval, Bourg St. Maurice in the
Tarentaise is reached in 3 hrs. The
path in the opposite direction to Cour-
mayeur leadit in 1 J hr. by the stream
of the Versoi to the Hameau du
Glacier, so called from its proximity
to one of the glaciers of Mont Blanc,
and, half a league farther, to

The Chalets of Motet, Here are 2

408

EOUTE 139.— COL DE LA SBIGNE.

Sect. II

small inns or chilets, one containing
3, the other 4 beds, clean but rough,
and dear.

The three paths from the Col du
Bonhomme au meet at Motet; from
thence the ascent of the Col de la
Seigne, though tedious, is not dlM-
cult. The summit, 1^ hr. from Motet,
is 8247 ft. above the sea. It com-
mands the whole extent of the Allee
Blanche and the S. side of Mont
Blanc, which, rising 11,000 ft above
the All^e Blanche, without being ab-
solutelj a precipice, is in great part too
steep to allow snow to rest on it. The
ridge of the Col de la Seigne sepa-
rates the waters which run into the
Rhone from those which are tribu-
taries of the Po.

**From the Cot de la Seigne, an
Alpine view of extraordinary mag-
nincence burst upon us. We looked
upon Mont Blanc, and along the
course of the valleys which divide
Piedmont from the Valais, and ex-
tend nearly 30 miles on the S.E.
side of its enormous mass, through
the Allee Blanche, the Tal Yeni,
and the Val dTSntrfeves, to the Col
Perrex. Two immense pyramids of
rugged rock rear from the valley
their scathed heads, and appear like
guards to the 'monarch of moun-
tains ;' beyond and below them lay
the little lake of Combal, whence
issues one of the sources of the Doira
Baltea ; and down the sides of Mont
Blanc appeared to stream the glaciers
of the Allee Blanche and the Miage ;
whilst the distant peaks which over-
hang the western side of this long
valley or valleys (for different por-
tions of it, from the Col de la Seigne
to the Col Ferrex, bear different
names) give a peculiarly grand and
severe aspect to the scene ; among
these the Geant and the Grand Jo-
rasse are distinguished. The eastern
side of the valley is formed by the
pramont, and a range of mountains
which extend to the Col Ferrex,
and terminate the vista in Mont Velan
and the masses which surround the
pass of the Great St. Bernard. The
Summit pf Mont Blanc was pccasion-
»Uy wy§lop©4 h clfivte m^ tte

changes which these prodticed upon
the scene were often strikiiigljr l>eau-
tifiil. Most travellers, whose expec-
tations have been formed upon the
descriptions in guide-bookd, ai*e led
to believe that the £. side of Af ont
Blanc is one vast precipice, from the
summit down to the AU^ Blanche :
it is certainly much more abrupt than
towards the vale of Chamonni ; bnt
no such anticipation will be realised
in the magnificent view from the Col
de la Seigne.

'* From this col, leading ac^ss the
great chain of the Alps, we began
our descent over some beds of snow,
which, lying on the northern side of the

Sath, remain unmelted. After a tedious
escent to the first pasturage, at the
base of the two immense pyramids
which formed so striking a fbatiire
from the summit, we sat down upon the
short and soft grass of the pasturage
of the chfilets of the All^e Blanche,
to rest the mules and oursAlves,
and took refreshment, which we had
brought with us. The sward around
us was enamelled with beautiful
flowers : of these, the broad patches
of the deep blue gentianella were the
richest in colour ; the Alpine ranun«-
culus, and a hundred other varieties,
embellished the place where we rested;
being surroimded by, and in the im-
mediate vicinity o^ the loftiest moun-
tains in Europe.

** Soon after leaving this delightful
spot, we skirted the littiie lake of
Conibal by a very narrow path.—
After passing the lake at the lower
extremity, across an embankment
of great thickness and strength,
the path descends on the L 6ide of
the torrent, which struggles with hor-
rid violence in continued cataracts
down the ravine for several miles,
particularly where, in passing by the
glacier of Miage, our route lay amidst
rocks and stones, the dSris of the
mountain, broup;ht down by the gla-
cier, of which it conoealea the biiie
and sides.

<* The path is rou^h and stony hen
and there, and a uttle water ^on
streams trickles across it

^^ At lengt)^ ^« escaped from Mi ^

^ieti^' 4r Scmoy, rte. 139.-*-all^ Blanche, glaciebs.

409

t
t

filing part <ft our route, add entered
e 'beaiitMtil meadows of the Yal
eni, wbidh are serparated from the
al d'Eii^^es br a high Tidg« that
thefbrefttof StNieolaA. Ther«
aeveral pfOiges, in which the
qaantitieB of hay made in the
n^eodcrws and slopes of tUs ralley are
scored.

•* The forest of St. Nicolas, which
-v^e traversed on our way to Corma*
yenr, is opposite to some extensive
IJ^nildings at ihe foot of the Glacier
de Brenya. These were formerly
ofscnpied by miners, who prepared
-tht lead and copper ores raised
n«ar this place ; bnt ihe expenses
liiiying exceeded the profits, these
buildings are now falling to decay.
Across the talley we sawihebeau"
tiibl glacier of Brenira appearing
tliroQgh the enormous lafones and
pines of the forest, presenting a scene
ddserredly esteemed one of the finest
in the Alps. We now rapidly de-
scended by a narrow road which
overhangs the lower range of the
glacier of the Brenra whose sides
vrere covered with masses of granite
and other rocks of great magnitude*
The torrentwhichwe had seen rushing
through the valley passed beneath the
glacier, and reappeared increased by
a stream, which issued iSrom an arch
at the termination of the glacier, like
that of the Arveron in the vale of
Chsffionny.*' — Brcdkedon,

The chief glaciers of the All^e

Blanche (on Uie N. side) are, 1. G. de

I'Estellette ; 2. G. de TAllte Blanche;

3. G. de Miage ; 4. G. de la Brenva.

The 2nd and drd of these have formed

barriers across the valley by moraines,

so as to have occasioned lakes by the

interruption of the river course. That

fimned by the Glacier de TAllee

Blanche is nearly filled up by alluvial

matter $ bnt an extensive flat attests

its ibrmer existence, together with

the barricade of debris through which

the river now tumbles in a fbaming

rapid. The moraine of the G. de

Miftge is perhaps the most extra*

ordinary in the whole Alps, and has

given nie to th« Zae d$ Comhal,

mV>ir t)i9 morMne of W»^% wWob

occupies the valley for some space,
are some ch&lets, and then a level
fertile plain, whilst the valley widens,
and becomes less savage and more
romantic. Trees appear on both sides,
especially on the rt., where the forest
is very fine, and clothes all the N.
slope of a conical summit, called
M<mt Chitif^ or Fain de Sucre, which
is composed of granite, though sepa-
rated from the great chain by secon-
dary rocks. The paths through these
woods are most beautiful and striking.
That leading to Cormayeur, after at-
taining some height above the tor-
rent, proceeds nearly on a level, untU,
emerging from the trees, we come into
full view of the magnificent Glacier
de la Brenva, which, occupying a
hollow to the E. of Mont Blanc, pours
its mass into the valley filled up in a
good measure with its moraine,f(irming
a kind of bridge which it has pushed
before it, and on which it bestrides
obliquely the Allee Blanche, abutting
against its opposite side at the foot of
the Mont Chetif. A chapel, dedicated
to Notre Dame de la Guerison, stands
on the rt. of the way, exactiy opposite
to the ice ; and another steep descent
conducts us again to the bank of
the river, which here turns abruptiy,
after its confiuencewith the stream of
the Tal Ferrex, into a ravine, cutting
the range of tiie Fain de Sucre. The
united streams are passed by a wooden
bridge at the Baths of La Saxe, and
20 i^n. more brines the traveller, in
4 hrs. from tiie C<3 de la Seigne^ to

Covrmayeur, (Bte. 134).

410 ROUTE 141.— CHAMOUNI TO MARTIGNY. tStE NOIBE. Sect. IL

the valley^ narrows, and the roai
ascends steeply on the banks of tlifr
Arve, opposite to the bases of the
Aiguilles Kouges, to some pasturages,
and the hamlet of Les Isles ; beyond,
the Anre is crossed, and the yilli^e of

Argentine is left on the rt. hand;
this is the third and highest parisk
in the valley; here the magmfioent gla-
cier of Argenti^re is seen streaming*
down from between the Aiguilles d'Ar-
gentidre and du Tonr.

The char-road here ceases. About
^ a mile beyond the viQage the path
divides, that to the rt. leading over the
Col de Balme; taking that to the L
it rises rapidly to the miserable ham-
let of TreWchcmt, passing what is
called the Montets, a sterile gorge, and
a short league from Argenti^re the
summit of the first pass is attained ; the
streams on either side take different
courses, that through Chamonni to
the Arve, and that towards Martigny
to the Rhone.

A little beyond the crest, near Poyaz,
the savage and sterile vaUey of Berard
opens to the left, through which the
Eau Noire, the torrent of the Val
Orsine, descends; ^ hr's. walk up the
valley, the Eau Noire forms a very
fine cascade. On looking up this valley,
the snows of the lofty Buet lying
behind the Aiguilles Bouges are seen.
[The ascent of the Buet may be made
from Couteraye, following the Eau
Noire upwards to the Ch41et Berard,
where it is possible to pass the
night. The valley of Sixt (Rte. 143)
may be reached either by passing
over the summit of the Buet, or by
the Coldel'Echaud, S.W. of the sum-
mit.] After passing the hamlet of
Couteraie the road descends to

ROUTE 141.

CHAMOUNI TO MARTIGNY, BY THE
TETE NOIBE.

ChamomiL ^®''"-

Argenti^Te 1.46

Tgte Noire 3

Fordaz • 1.30

Martigny 2.16

8 or 9 hrs. moderate walking: 10
with a mule, including stoppages : no
guide needed. Ladies should take
a char to Argenti^re, 6 m. above
ChamounL

Two roads lead from Chamouni to
Martigny; one by the Tete Noire,
the other by the Col de Balme. Tra-
vellers are often perplexed which to
choose of these two passes. The
general scenery of the Tete Noire is
superior; but the Col de Balme has
one view which far surpasses any in
the Tete Noire.

[Those who can spare 2^ additional
hours for the journey should proceed
from Chamoimi to the top of the Col
de Balme and enjoy the view (Bte.
142), then, descending L, strike off into
the Yal Orsine across the pastures
and through the forest, dropping down
upon the village of Val Orsine. Al-
though no path is marked for the
first part of me way, this detour may
be made on horseback, and is well
worth the trouble, combining as it
does the beauties of the two passes of
the Tete Noire and Col de Balme.
Another course, more direct, but not
well marked, leads from the Inn on the
Col de Balme to the Inn of the T6te
Noire, across meadows, by the side of
a small lake, and finally along the
edge of the precipice above the Eau
Noire, whence it descends in zigzags.
(Rte. 138.)3

The road lies up the vale of Cha-
mouni, by Les FrSs (Praz), where the
path to the Arveron diverges. The
main route of the valley continues to
the chapel and hamlet of Tines : here

Val Orsine^ the chief village of the
valley, where it is possible to get a
bed. Its church having been more
than once swept away, a strong ram-
part of masonry and earth has been
raised to defend it from similar catas-

ff,deh Cascade Barberine, half-waj
to Martigny. i hr's. walk from this
there is a very beautiful water&ll on
the W. side of the valley called

^ Savoy, ROUTE 141. — ^val orsine. trient.

411

ty^^tscode Barberme, This cascade is
of the most beautifdl in the Alps,
well worth a detour, which it
iELVolves.

CThe vaUey now narrows to a gorge:

t>li.xrough it, the torrent forces its way

iTX'to the mor^ open valley below,

a43€|uiring in its course the contri-

l>ii.t.ions of numerous waterfalls and

streams from*the glaciers above.

Jn this gorge an old barrier or gate
marks the Irontier of Yallais, near to
Tv^liich a small redoubt has been
thrown up: soon after the torrent is
crossed, at a spot where a mill and
some pleasant meadows contrast with
the generally savage character of the
deep valley. There is hardly a spot
in the Alps which affords grander
scenery than the 3 m. between the
iivns of the Cascade and Tete Noire
— rocks and pine-woods, ice above,
the torrent or verdant meadows be-
low, and in the distance, looking back,
the glorious peak of the AiguiUes
Rouges.

rProm this point a very beautiful
mnle-path strikes off into the valley
of the Rhone, down the valley, of the
Trient (See end of this Route,)]

To avoid a bad place, caUed Mau-
pas, a short tunnel is pierced through
a rock, in a situation of singular gran-
deur, where it overhangs precipitously
the dark valley beneath.

10 min. beyond the tunnbl (Roche
Percee) is the Hotel de la Tete Noire.
This is the usual halting - place
between Chamouni and Martigny,
(about 4^ hrs. from Chamouni). This
is a very good and comfortable place
for those to sleep at who are unwilling
to fatigue themselves by going from
Chamouni to Martigny in one day.
Close to the inn is the path already
mentioned leading to the Col de
Balme, and that described in next
page, dotm the Vale of the Trient.

Near this spot the road turns ab-
ruptly into the dark forest of Trient,
passing round the shoulder of a moun«>
tain covered with dark forests: this
shoulder is called the T^te Noire, be-
yond which the road through the forest
continues for half an hour. In the
depths below the forest, the torrent

of the Trient is heard forcine its
way into the Eau Noire, which it
joins before their streams fall into the
Rhone.

On leaving the forest, the valley of
Trient opens, and the traveller reaches

Trientt a hamlet with a poor Inn,

The little valley of Trient is deeply
seated amidst pine forests, the debris
of the surrounding mountains, and
the fearful precipices from which
these have been detached. In the
plain of the valley some barley is
grown, and the meadows are luxu-
riant. I

A little way beyond the hamlet of
Trient, the torrent which descends
from liie glacier of Trient is crossed,
and a steep path leads up through the
forest which clothes the mountain side
of the Forclaz (30 min.). About half
way up, the path from the Col de
Balme faUs in. [The traveller who is
going from the Forclaz to the Great
St. Bernard may agreeably vary the
hackneyed route bv Martigny and
Sembranchier, by following the vaUey
of Champez. It is a bridle-path
that requires 9 hrs. Ladies should
therefore sleep the previous night at
the T^te Noire inn. From the For-
claz the path diverges and gradually
ascends, and between the chalets of
La Giete and Bovine affords a more
extensive and magnificent view than
from the Forclaz. Milk in abundance
can be got at Bovine. A little after,
the path descends by sharp zigzags to
the bottom of the valley of Champez,
and crosses its torrent by a plank-
bridge. Thence it runs parallel to,
but above, the torrent, and passes the
village of Champez ; this part of the
road is bad. Beautifril meadows and
woods succeed ; at last, on emer^g
from a pine- wood, the secluded little
lake of Champez is seen, set in a fringe
of firs, with the splendid Combm
towering in the distance behind it. Its
water is very clear and shallow. A
i:apid descent of f hr. to Orsidres.]

On the Col is (or was) a Swiss
gendarme, who makes a demand of
1 iFr. per passport — a simple piece of
authorized extortion, no way credit"
able to the Swiss authorities.

412

ROUTE 142*-^MARTIONY tO CHAHOONI.

Secfc. II-

FrOB the FoTclaE the viefw is
limited, but ^ hr's. walk lower down
a turn in the valley displays in
perfection the course of the Khone
through the Valais, a jprospeot cele-
brated in the Alps. Tke descent is
by fine pasturages, and !( hr. are re-
quired to reach Martigny>le-Bourg.
The path is much sh^tered by pines
and beeches, and lower in the yalley
by the pear and apple-trees: in the
neighbourhood of these are numerous
cottages, and many are passed before
the path falls into the route that leads
from Martigny to the Great St Ber«
nard* and the yalley of the Drance at
Martigny-le-Bourg (Bte. 185). Thosd
who ure going to St. Bernard ma^
possibly find quarters here^ bat it is
much better to go on 1 m. to

Martigny-la- Vilie (Bte. 56)»

It takes 2^ hrs. to ascend from Mar-
tigny to the Forclaz, 2 hrs. to descend.

l^Tite Noire to Martigny by the Gorge
of the Eau Noire, Finhaut^ and Vemayaz,
—The route fi'om T^te Noire to Mar*
tigny may be yarled b^ following the
stream of the Eau Noire downwards
into the yalley of the Rhone, through
a yery beautind gorge, and it is oui and
out finer than the usual path oyer the
Forclaz. It is especially preferable to
it in cloudy weather. On turning 1. out
of the Tete Noire route, just &yond
the boundary "gate of the Yallais, be-
fore crossing the second bridge E. of
the Barberine Hotel, it ascends by the
hamlet of Chatelard in steep zigzags
to nearly the summit of the N. bank
of the valley of the Eau Noire. It
then proceeds nearly on a level through
that yalley into the valley of Trient,
by way of Finhaut, to Trinqitent and
Soheni (waterfall in woody ravine),
and thence descends into the Rhone
valley at Yemayaz rly. stat. The
path was nearly reconstructed 1859,
and is for the most part excellent as
a mille-path.]

From the L side of the Yal de
Trient^ the upper part of the valley
looks like a narrow black trench,
and the distant view of Mont Blanc
filling up the depression in the
side of the valley of Chamouni,
through which the road of the Tete

Noire passes^ is also tery fine* Cii-
rious examples of ^ glacier maTkin^r;^'^
interesting to the geologist, may^
observed on the rocks of this "~

Beyond Sedveat it leaves the ii

sible gorge through which the Trii

gours into the valley of the Bhon.<
ttle to the Tt*% and descends by a gi>CMi
mule-path through a pretty little weJLl*
wooded yalley upon the village ci£
Vemayazf a little aiwve the Salfenelxe
waterfall, 2 m. from Martigny. Tls^
scenery is very fine throughout, axxd
the path well made, and may be fommd
without a guide. Betwe^i Triiiqoexxt^
and Salvent a romanticlittle bridge is
passed, similar, and equal iH beauty of
situation to the Fantenbriicke in th^
lant-thaL From Salvent, two little
frequented passes lead to Sixt. (See
Rte* 149.)
Yemayaz Railway Stat Rte. 56.

ROtJTEJ 142.
MARTtairr to CHAMottK i, Bir rnm cjol

DE BALIKE.

Houiik
Martigny.

t^orolM ..*•«»« 24
ColdeBdlme . . . • • ai^
Ai^nti^re . • . . » . 2i-
Chimounl if

About 20 m., 8^ hrs'. steady walk-^
ing, 10} hrs. with a mule^ including a
hut at the summit. No guide needed
in clear weather.

This road, inferior in attifactioiis to
the Tite NoirC) on the whdle» may be
recommended to travellers wh6 ap-
proach Chamouni from the Yalus,
for the sake of th^ fiiagnifieeht per-
spective view of Mont BliiiAic and his
Aigfuilles from the summit of th6 Oel
de Balmet It shbul^ be taken only
in clear weather*

On leaving Martighy, the route
over the Forclaz (Btei 141), rehoWasd
for its view over tht Rholie vallev, is
passed; but, in descending td the valley

St Savoy i route 142. — servoz to geneva.

413

>f 1Yi€ht, 6 path to the 1. ftvoids the

'iilsxs'e afid leads towards the valler

^e datk forest, up thi'oagh which

±hB ttsd^nt to the Col de Bahne.

path foU(}#8 the mairgiii of the

^^ir^^nt torrent, then crosses it and

cLSoends to the forest of Magnin, which

t.als:es 40 mitt, to travet^e. The path

\^iro-agIi it has been idipix^Tea of

VsLte yeats. It was vefy steep and

fskt^ig^nifig:, often intercepted by the

eicitangled #0ots of the pin«iS« which

form steps ^ or 3 ft. in height, making

it A suDject of wonder how Mtiles

got np or down such places. At

IcmgiJi, after climbing about 1 hr. up

the monhtain side, ftnd through the

forest, the travelled emei^ges upon the

pastutages and ehSl^ts of Hetbttg^res.

Above these the ascent is gradual to

ihe Ool de Balme, where one of the

finest scenes in the wotld bursts upon

the travellei'. Mont Blsinc, from his

snnmut to his base in the tale of

ChanM>uni, li^s like k model befere

him, stuikninded by the Aiguilles of

lia 'tour, Argentidre, Veite, Dm,

Cbarmoz, Mim, &c. &c. ; and each

divided from its neighbour by cfnor-

mous glaciers which stream into

the railey. Below, the ejfe sweeps

its course entirely through th^ vale

of Chftmouni, to the Col de YOsa^

at its othfer extresmity. On the

rt, the Aiguilles Boughs tiite the

nearest : beyond these, bounding the

valley, lies the Bl^ven, and more to

the tight the snowy Summit of the

Bnet It is a magnificent scene to

I d^Il upon, and £ose Who do not

arrive at Chamouni by the Col de

I Balme ought to make an es^ou^sion

from the Prieur^, expwssly to enjoy

this most glorious view.

I There is a house of i*€}fuge on the

i Ool de Balme, whefe shelter and re**

f^fata^nt, With Wii^, may be had, ^nd

5 Of 6 tolertible- beds are i^eady to f e*-

eseive ttavellers overtAken by a stotte.

On the descent the sourdC) of th^

Arte is passed, at ieilst th6 highetst

of its springs j the ^ath lies down

over fine pasturages, and by the dh&-

lets of Charamifian to th^ hatikt

of Tbtir, Whete cultivsition, th^mgh

scanty, is reached, and barley, oats,

and flax are raised. On the banks
of the torrent may be observed heaps
of blackish slaty rubbish, which is
brought down by the torrents, and
eaf«fully preserved by the inhabitants
in smaU heaps. The traveller will
be pleased with the sagacity of the
peasants when he learns that this
black slaty earth is scattered over the
snow with Whioh the fields are co-
vered in the spring to accelerate its
melting, which it really el^Bcts several
weeks before it would otherwise dis-
appear. This is owing to the warmth
atfSorbed by the black earth from the
sun's rays, — & philosophical process
which the inhabitants ampiear to have
long known and used $ u>r Saussure
mentions it as an old practice. Just
before the valley is feached the path
falls into the road to Chamouni from
the T^te Noire (Rte. 141),

To go in one day ftom Chamouni
to Trient, by the T^te Noire, and re-
tttm by the Col de Balme, requires
12 or 13 hrs. When this is intended,
to gain time it is desirable to take a
char as far as Argentl^re, the road
being good enough to drive over with
more &spatch from ChamounL The
same chat* may b^ kept for the return
in the evenings by which further time
alid &tigue may be saved.

ROUTE 14g.

SERVOZ TO GEllEVA, BV ^tJtT.

Servoz.

Col 4 hrs.

Slxt 5 hrs.

Oweva St in.

The f>aUey of Sixt desetves much
tnore attention tlian it has yet received.
It is i^ommended to Ul tofefs of the

fiettlfes<|tte, as one of the finest in
itVOy* An interesting account of
the f allejr and its neighbourhood has
been given by Mr. Alfred Wijls in

414

ROUTE 143. — SERVOZ TO GENEVA. BUET.

Sect.Il

a volume called 'The Eagle's Nest'
It may be visited either on going
from Geneva to Chamouni, being ap-
proached by a good carriage -road
from Bonneville, or, in returning from
Chamouni, by the Col d'Anteme, lead-
ing across the Chaine de Fys, a ridge
parallel to that of the Breven and the
Aiguilles Rouges.

The ascent of the Cd cTAnteme
commences at Servoz (Bte. 138). It
is a mule-path, and requires about 9
hours to reach Sixt. A guide should
be taken either from Chamouny or
Servoz, vtrho knows the way: it ought
not to be attempted without. Take
also provisions for the day. Near
Servoz may be seen a monument to
an unfortunate Dane, M. Eschen, who
lost his life (1800) on the Buet, in
one of the crevasses concealed beneath
the snow. The mountain above Servoz
abounds in tertiary fossils.

It takes more than 4 hrs. to reach
the CoL Afker leaving the upper
chalets the debris of a fallen moun-
tain has to be crossed by a rugeed
path. The Col is reached through a
fork-like opening, from which a mag-
nificent view of Mont Blanc and its
chain is laid open to the eye. The
summit of the Col d'Anteme is 7424
ft. above the sea-level. There is an-
other rather shorter but steeper and
more difficult pass from Servoz to
Sixt by the Col du Deroohoir, passing
to the W. side of the Fointe de Sales.

Sixt may also be reached in a not
very fatiguing day of 11 hrs. from
Chamouni, by crossing the Col du
Breven, vi& Planpraz— road made by
the French Grovemment ; avoiding the
circuit by Servoz. The roadsjoin at a
bridge over the river Dioza. The view
from the Col du Breven is magnificent.

[The ascent of the Buet (K. 138 / and
e) may be made from the Col d'Anteme
by descending nearly due E. from the
Col to the chalets of Moed, and in
1^ hr. more, partly descending across
meadows to tne hamlet of Yilly (the
only night-quarter on the ascent), you
can ride as far as Salenton, ^hr. further.
Then begins the steepest and most
difficult part of the ascent, of 2 hours'
toil, mostly over snow« The summit

of the Buet is 10,206 ft. above tlie sea-
level. It is thickly covered -vvitli snoiv
and on the N.E. and N.W. extend g^la
ciers. The S. side is very precipitous
From this point Mont Blanc is seen ii
full grandeur. E. stretch the xhoiib-
tains of the Yalais, W. the vieiv ex*
tends over numberless rockv peaki
far away into Dauphiny, ana over i
multitude of ridges of Savoyard moun-
tains, you have various glimpses d
the lakes of Geneva and Annecy,
and the horizon is bounded by the
Jura. The Buet may be ascended
more easily by Valorsine (Rte. 141).
From Villy you may descend the
course of the Dioza to Servoz, or take
a very interesting walk across the
Breven, descending to the chalets of
Flanpra(Bte. 138e). It is intended
to make a good path by this way to
the Col d'Anteme, when the attrac-
tions of this route will be more easily
appreciated.]

The path to Sixt skirts the £. mar-
ffin of the small Lac d'Anteme. The
descent on the N. side is eradual, and
you arrive in about an hour at the
Chalets d'Anteme — a cluster of filthy
huts. Here you will find nulk and
cheese, with tolerably good water,
of which there is none on the Mon-
tagues des Fys. Near these huts
are fossil shells. On quitting this
spot, you continue to descend ra-
pidly, during nearly 4 hrs., beneath
the fine peak of the Fointe de Sales,
through a narrow gorge, whose
beauties and luxuriant appearance are
very striking after the barren and
bleak pass oi the mountain: cascades,
rushing streams, and forests of dark
and imposing feature, are amongst the
yaried objects worthy of attention. At

Sixt (^Inn : H. des Cascades, a large
house, once a convent, altered and
repaired), good quarters for those who
desire shooting. Chamois, grouse,
and partridge are to be had, and idso
delicious trout, the water of this yallej
not being too cold for the fish, as at
Chamouni. The guides at Sixt are
yery inferior, and are banded to>
getner, as at Chamouni, and eack
takes his turn. The charges are
fixed: To the Buet, 10 frs.; Fer a

\^d^' ^ Savoy,

ROUTE 143. — SECT. EXCURSIONS.

415

Olieval, 2 frs. 50 c.; Chamouni, 15fr8.
Z^occand the shoemaker is a good
^udde for the Buet, &c

Sizt was formerly attached to a

monastery, founded 1144 by Ponce

de ^aucigny, and is beautifnUy sita-

Ated in the valley of the Gifire, at

t^e W. base of the Buet, at a point

wliere 2 yalleys converge like a V*

1?lie valley abounds in wxterfalk:

perhaps the one most worthy a special

-visit is that of Eouget, or Soaet, an

liour's distance from the path leading

to Col d'Anteme.

Mule-path from Planpras to Cha-
mouni in construction.

ExcwswM. — 1. To the Far h Cheval,
(4^ m., 1^ hr.,) a rugged precipice,
in the form of a horse-shoe, guarded
on the N. by the remarkable moun-
tain Pic de Timnewrges, and orna-
mented with several cascades, be-
jond which is the Fond de la
Ck>mbe, which forms the termina-
tion of the valley, 3 hrs. from Sixt.
A rough char-road goes all the
way. On the way the Buet raises
its snowy head (rt.) into the clouds;
1. is the cascade of^/a Gouille. About
I of the way, a humble monument
marks the spot where the entire
village of Entre Deux Nants, with
180 persons, was buried beneath a
landslip. The mines near the head
of the Talley are difficult of access,
and have external communications
along the fetce of the precipice from
adit to adit. The glacier on the top
of the Fer k Cheval is remarkable
for the very steep angle at which it
descends to the edge of the precipice.
It is said to renew itself every 7 years,
its lower extremity constantly fiiU-
ing over into the valley down a pre-
cipice 500 ft. deep. In returning, a
visit to the source of the last waterfall
to the rt. before reaching Sixt will
repay a widk of 15 min. up rather
steep grass slopes and through a
beech wood. The path turns off at
the mill. The mass of water forming
the cascade wells out of a single hole
in the rock, and is said to be as limpid
in winter as in summer.

2. To the Lac de Oers, 3 hours'
walk, the path crosses the valley in a

S.W. direction, and then mounts by
a steep ascent (passing the fine cas-
cade of Fieu, or Gers, nearly hidden
in a deep cleft) for 50 min. A ravine
is then crossed, and the path mounts
agaia on the opposite side, until the
Montanie de Forte is reached — 5o
min« Hence there is a very fine view
over Sixt — the Monts Buet and Blanc,
and the Pointe de Sales. Hence to
the Lac de Gers is a walk of 45 min.
over ground nearly level. No guide
required. Passing the Lac de Gers,
the traveller piay reach Sallenches or
Cluses (Bte. 138) in about 5 hrs. The
ridge S.W. of the lake is called the
Chaine des Fritea; and beyond this the
track descends to the picturesque Lac
de Flaincy drained omj by a subter-
ranean channel. From thence a
Sath to the 1. leads to Sallenches,
escending into the valley of the
Arve near the Nant d'Arpenaz. A
track to the rt. leads in about the
same time (2 hrs.) to Cluses.

3. To the Buet. It is prudent to
start 2 or 3 hrs. before sunrise, so as
to reach the snow before it has been
much softened bj the sun. An active
mountaineer might reach Chamouni
the same day, but it is a very long ex-
pedition. The ascent may be much
shortened by passing the night at
the Chalets des Fonds, about 2 hrs.
from Sixt.

4. Two passes lead from Sixt to the
valley of the Rhone by the valleys of
the Trient or the Sallenches. The
less difficult ascends the precipitous
rocks of the Tdte Noire, about the
middle of the Fer k Cheved, and leads
by the chalets of Emoussons to Sal-
vent (Rte. 141). By the other more
difficult and rarely-used pass it is
possible to reach Salvent or the valley
of the Sallenches. Scaling the for-
midably steep rocks of uie lower
portion of the Pic de Tinneverges,
you may reach the Col de Tumeverges,
which crosses the ridge of the Fer a
Cheval at the N.E. comer of the amphi-
Uieatre. It was passed by an English
traveller in 1860.

For the passes to Champ^ry see
Bte. 144.

A Mail Carriage, taking 2 or 3 pas-

416

ROUTE 14:4.-'-«IXT TO KOKTHEV.

Soct II

sengeps, niiiB thi^ce tunes a week to
Bonneville.

l^ere mie two dbmr'Wimds te 0»«
aeTA-^one hj Bonneville, in good ooBn
dition ; another, shorter, but mot
so well kept, by St. feoire; bat 8t.
Jeoire is hy fag the most piotmwsqoe:
distance either way about 36 m.

1^ hour below Sixt is Samoeiu (^Ifi»s
Croix d'Or, not first-rate), a beanti*
fully situated town of 8000 Inhab.

[Pass of the Col de JonxpUne to
Morzine, down the Valley oi the
Dranse to Thonon.]

Tannmg^ty a town of 2800 Inhab.,
2^ leagues from Samoens, has a castlef
now custom-hoose. From henoe Bo&»
neville and the high road from Cha*
mooni to Gkneva may be reached in
about 10 m. of good road. By the
more direct route it is a distance of
2} leagues to

^S';^. Jeoire (^Iims: Couronne; Lion
d'Or) standing at the foot of the Mdle^
a mountain very oonspicueus from
Geneva. Its top commands a fine
view. 2^ leagues henee is

Nangy^ on the road from Chamouni to

Gbnxva, Bte. 53.

KOUTE 144.

SIXT TO MONTHBY — VAL D'iLLJEZ.

This rofite leads through oharming
scenery, and is perfectly easy for the
most moderate pedestrian, or Ibr
ladies who can ride lor about 6 hrs.
Good Tm at Champ^ry. There is a
direct pass from the head of the
valley of Sixt to Champe'ry by th^
Col de 8ag4nux, This was formerly
a difficult, and even dangerous nass,
but it is said that the path has oeei}
improved, and no mountaineer need
now hesitate to follow it with a good
guide. Hiere is anoth^ pass, not
quite so diftcult, by the Goktte de
rOulaz. Ordinary travellers wiD pve«
£np the more oirc«itoa# bat much
easier route by die Col de Gol^oe
and the Col de Coux.

The Moeat to the Cb^ cte Goleza
mences at

Samo^ (indifig^rent /im). Tbe psftk
for the entire way to tha Oollias tturoBg^
beontif qI forest soeaery , diyersified ^
jj^raasy glades, from which eacqvisil*
views are gained of thelimeatooA pcaki
olthe ne^hbooring me«ntAin& Hm
ascent to the Col, passing l^e Tillngwi
or hamlets of Lts Mmlins and Zes
ABamantj oeenpies about 3 hrs. ^ the
descent from thence to Bamoens about
2^ hrs. Close to the enmiiut (abont
560O ft.) are some chabt3» where
wine, miBE, and bread and chease are
to be had.

From the summit of the Col the
traveUev sees to the N«& another and
higher ridge whush a^wrates him
from the Yfdd'BUea. Belovr him, at
no great depth, is a stream, the
tovrent of the Branoe, which ^ws
into the lake of Genera near Thonon
(see Bte. 57). The way to the CQi
de Ooux winds roupd the head of the
valley of the Dranoe, beneatii some
limestone carags, and through a ma^
nificent pine forest, The smnnait
^about 6400 ft.), marked by a croes,
is reached in 1^ hr. from th« Col de
Gol^, or about 1^ hr* wh^i traTel*
ling in the opposite directkm. l%e
descent from the Col de Coax into
the Val d'lmes is at first rather
steep. About halfway down a stream*
let from a sulphmreoos spring' is
crossed by a stone bridge. The
descent to Champ^ is easUymade
in 2 hrs.; the ascent' from Ghamp€ry
requires 2^ hrs,

Ckamp4ry {Inns: Hdtel et Pension
de la Dent dm Midi, fiair; penaicNi
&| fr. a day} — Croix E^dorale is
sdll dieapep, but secimd-rate) is
well suited for headquarters from
whence the beautiful scenery of the
neighbourbood mav be seen in detail
it is rather hot for its height (3700 ft.)
above the sea.

Pkasemi and earn WaUks^-^a. To the
Qroix do Culet, S hi8.| fine view of
Bent ^ Midi. 6. Uf ihe Vi^ to
ch|lets de Balaa. «. Qhtfets (k
Bonavaux. Deaoend to. a bridge sum
a fine ^11, bask to ChampiSry, 2 hrs.
The ohief excumon from Chan*

ied^' if Savoy.

ROUTE 146. — AOSTA TO PONTE.

417

p^y for monntaineers is the ascent

oJ^ the Dent da Midi, whose nigged

m-M^ seemingly iaaitGessible orags form

so striking an oMeot from the E. end

of the l^Se oi fibeneva. The most

direct roate» but fit only for good

craffsmen, passes by the Croix de

!Zelfi2e, and reaches the sunmiit in

5^ hrs. An easier way passes by the

chalets ci Bonayaux, 1^ hr., and from

thence gains the summit in 5 b^s.

The view is magnificent, including

thd greater part m the Pennine chain

aad the nearer Alps of Bex.

The beautiful Val d'Hliez is about 9 m.
in length from Champ^ry to Monthey.
There is a carriagei-road, not in good
order, on the 1. bank of the Vtege
torr^t, passing the villages of Val
cTIUiez (a deeent /nn) and Trois Tor-^
rents. Pedestrians bound for Bex may
take a footpath along the rt. bank of
the stream. The erratic blocks of
Monthey and the Val d'Bliez hare
famished much matter for discussion
among geologists. Cbar.road not
good to

Monthey. (See Rte. 57.)
[Travellers wishing to reach Tho»
non, on the lake of Geneva, from
SainoSBS, may take the Col de Gol^ze ;
bnt th^re la a rather shcHft route by
the Col de Jouxplane leading direct
to Moniiie.' (for this and other
routes from the Val d'Hliea to Tho*
non see Bte. 57.)]

KOUTE 140.

AOSTA TO PONTE IN VAL D*ORCA, BY
COGNE AND THE VAL SQANNA.

Aosta.
Gogne . . .
Highest ohlUets
Col d9 l-Adettft
O^uaapigUa . .
Poote ...

H. u,

5 30

3 0

1 30

3 0

4 0

N.B. — ^It is advisable to send notice
beforehand to the landlord at Cogne,

to prepare, if the party be large, as
all provisions come from Aosta, 4 hrs.
Carriages tctAimavillc} thence bridle-
path.

From Aosta (Bte. 134) a road
leads directly down to the river Doire,
which is crossed on a wooden bridge,
and a path ascends on the rt. bank
through the rich plain of the vidley,
and through the villages of Gressau
and Joveneau to Aimaville, where one
of the most fantastical offences to
good taste in building spoils one of
the finest sites in the valley. A
knoll jutting out into it is surmounted
with a square mass of masonry, with
an uglv gallery erected in the early
part of the last century, a modern
antique, wor0e than any cockney cas-
tle. Within it is an ancient armoury
of the barons of Aimaville. It is now
inhabited by the Contessa di Bocca
Chalaud.

Prom Aimaville the ascent is steep
to the hamlet of St. Martin. The
view from the crest above it is per-
haps the finest in the Val d' Aosta,
in the richness of its plain, studded
with villas and chsLteaux. The city is
seen as in a glorious frame, and be-
yond it, towards the great chain, the
peaks of the Monte Bosa close the
picture.

On turning the brow of the moun-
tain which forms the southern side of
the entrance to the Val de Oogne, a
path at an elevation of at least 1000 ft.
above the torrent of the Cogne leads
into the valley. Soon after losing
sight of Aosta, deep in the valley be-
neath the path, the tops c^ the cot-
tages of Font d'Ael are seen clustered
with a few trees, and near it a white
line which crosses the ravine. This
is well worth an examination, and a
path leads down to this remarkable
village, where the bridge crossing the
gulf will be found to be an ancient
aqueduct, which now serves as a road.
This is one of the most r^narkable of
the Boman structures remaining in
the Val d'Aosta, fipom the tunes of
the empire. It is raised nearly 400 ft.
above the torrent, which it crosses by
a single arch ; immediately above the
arch, and under the present road,

418

EOUTE 146. — COGNE.

Sect. n.

is the ancient gallery, which is lit
throagh slits in the waU. The gallery
is 180 ft. long, 14ft high, and 3 ft.
wide. The y'ault is composed of the
slabs which formed the bed of the
ancient watercourse. The gallery is
entered by arched ports at either end;
there are two, one on the nnper side,
at the Tillage of Pont d'Ael, and at
the other end the port opens down
the yalley. This sing^ular work is
in perfectly sound condition, though
built, as a still legible and even sharp
inscription indicates, by Cuus Aimus
and his son, of Padua, in the thir-
teenth year of Augustus. Their name
is still preserved in the village and
chateau of Aimaville. This inscrip-
tion is placed on a tablet just over the
arch on the lower side towards the
valley of Aosta.

Travellers in the Yal d' Aosta should
not fail to visit this interesting work
of antiquity, which is placed in a situ-
ation wnere it is impossible to imagine
that any benefit could ever have arisen
commensurate with the expense of the
structure. The surroundmg scenery
is very fine.

The distance from Aosta to Pont
d'Ael by the route described is about
2^ hours' walk. For pedestrians from
(jburmayeur there is a short way
from Villeneuve to Pont d'Ael, wind-
ing round the slope of the hill.

In ascending tne valley of Cogne
it is not necessary to retrace one's
steps to regain the path high upon the
mountain side. A shorter cut from
Pont d'Ael leads to it ; the valley
for a long way above Pont d'Ael
is a ravine, utterly impracticable in
its depth, which, except at two or
three points, is equally impervious to
the eye. Opposite to one spot, where
the path turns suddenly into a deep
rift or crue in the mountain side, is a
slide, down which trees cut in the
forest above are discharged, for the
chance of the torrent bringing them
down to the Yal d' Aosta. Not one
in ten escapes being broken into splin-
ters; these, however, serve for work-
ing the iron raised in the Yal de
Cogne, and celebrated in Piedmont.

The difficulties of constructing a

road by which the productioiis of th
valley could be brought dovm,
obvious on observing its precipitoi
character. The valley, however, opens
a little near some iron-works, and from
where the river is crossed to its
bank, a tolerable road leads to Cogine.
This road was made by two brotliers,
iron^masters, who have recorded its
formation on a tablet in a rock. It is
kept in repair and has been much, im-
proved at the expense of the oommune
of Cogne, under the judicious admi-
nistration of Dr. Grappin, a physician*
a man of general inibrmatioii, who
acquired influence enough over his
compatriots to induce them to carry
out many local improvements virhiai
he suggested. There is very little cul-
tivation in the valley, as the products
of the mines gave occupation to its
inhabitants; every stream driving its
tilt hammer, and almost every person
being employed in working, smelting,
or forging the iron raised. Within
the last few years, however, the com-
pany has failed, which led to the stop-
page of the works and to great dis-
tress amongst the inhabitants of the
yalley.

The hamlets of Yieille Silvenoir,
Epinel, and Creta are passed before
reaching the considerable viUage of

Cogne, 5^ hrs.' walk frohi Aosta Inn,
La Grivola, fair, for snch a remote
spot. The Cur^ Chamonen is a stoat
mountaineer, well acquainted with the
country.

[For mountaineers there is a some-
what longer but more interesting way
from Aosta, by ascencUng to the^alets
of Comboi, on the way to the Becca di
Nona, and thence crossing the ridge
nearly due S., with a magnificent view
of the snowy Alps of Cogne. It
is quite possible to ascend the Becca
di Nona, and from thence descend to
Cogne, in 1 long day from Aosta.]

The village is beautifully situated
at the union of 3 valleys, amidst
charming meadows, which contrast
strikingly with the barren sceotf
through which the traveller btf
passed. The valley N.E. of Cog»e
leads to the Mont Emilius, and by
a pass to the Val de St, Marcd.

JFVi36?'* ^ Savoy.

ROUTE 146. — COL DE COGNE.

419

the opposite direction the Val
Vbilnobe leads to the great glacier of

j\. daj may be spent with interest

and pleasure here in visiting the

a»l>a.]iaoned iron-mines. A very steep

accent of 2^ hrs. from Cogne leads to

tbiein. The iron was worked in the

fsLce of the mountain, and seems to be

o£ almost unlimited extent. A vast

surface of pure ore, yielding from 70

to 80 per cent, of metal, is exposed to

open day. The workmen liTed in

'wretched cabins during the week, but

descended to spend their Sundays in

the valley. The height of the mine

above the valley is at least 3000 ft.,

and as much as 120 rubbie or 3000 lbs.

of ore was brought down at once,

upon sledges worked by men in a

most extraordinary manner.

On the mountains near Cogne are

some of the few bouquetins left in the

Alps. Their destruction is prohibited

under heavy penalties. The King of

Italy resorts hither for the chase, and

has hunting chalets on the mountuins.

On leaving Co^e for the head of

the valley, a good road continues up

to the place where the path branches

off by which the iron-ore is brought

down from the mountain.

From all the heights round Cogne
Mont Blanc is admirably seen, for the
valley is a prolongation in direction
of that between Viueneuve and Cour-
mayeur. The beautiful pyramidal
peM of the Pic de la Grrioola or Come
de Chgne (13,003 ft.), between the val-
leys of Cogne and Savaranche, is also
a conspicuous object.

Leaving the little plain of Cogne,
the road to the Col ascends by a steep
path on the mountain side, leaving on
the rt. a valley into which descends
the glacier of Money, descending
from the mountain caUed the Grand
Paradis, The steep path passes over
what appears to be a vast dyke in the
valley ; the torrent flows round it to
escape through a ravine at one extre-
mity. On crossing the ridge, the tra-
veller finds hirns^ on a more wild
and open ground, leading to the Alps
and pasturi^es of Chavanes. Some
of the lower chalets are soon reached :
[Switz,"]

further up ou this fine Alp, which
feeds large flocks and herds during
the summer, numerous chalets form
the cluster known as the Chalets of
Chavanes, From this point there are 2
routes to the Val Soanna — (a) the
more direct, somewhat difficult, over
glacier; the other (b) longer, but, on
the whole, more interesting.

a. This pass across the gmcier is not
practicable for mules. From Cogne
to the crest of the pass is a walk of
4 hrs. — the glacier itself may be
crossed in 20 minutes. This pass is
known as the Col de V Arietta, Caution
should be used in crossing the glacier:
the natives do not know it well, and
when there is even a slight covering
of snow, it is prudent to carry a rope,
since the crevasses, though narrow,
are very numerous. The Col is ele-
vated and very narrow, the view from
it towards the S. is magnificent ; in
clear weather the city of Turin is
visible — seen over and far beyond the
deep Val Campea, which lies at the
feet of the traveller, and seemingly of
perpendicular descent. Towards the
N. the Monte Rosa and Mont Blanc
can both be seen if the traveller can
climb a rugged rock on the rt.
for the enjoyment of these magni-
ficent objects. The descent from the
Col is excessively steep, but quite
safe down to the valley of Campea ;
here, however, a commodious path
leads gently down through scenes of
continually increasing beauty. On
looking back the Col de Cogne ap-
pears as if guarded by inaccessible
precipices.

3 hrs. from the Col is Campiglia (do
Inn), a wretched hamlet, whose male
inhabitants for the most part migrate
in winter into the plains of Italy to
exercise their trades of coppersmith
and lampmaker.

i hr. Valprato. Here Bte. h falls
in.

&. A longer road, but more varied
and beautinil, and barely practicable
for mules, is found by leaving the
glaciers of Cogne on the rt, and
turning to the 1. up a steep and difl&-

420

ROUTE 146. — COL DI REALE.

Sect.

cult ascent to a narrow col, called the
¥enetre de Cogne, a mere notch in the
crest of the monntain. From this place
the view of the Alps which hound
the Val de Cogne on the W. is magni-
ficent, from the grandeur of their forms
and the vast extent of their glaciers.

In the opposite direction, the gla*
ciers which crest the northern side
of the Val d'Orca are not less strik-
ing, and are perhaps more impressive
from their greater proximity. They
form a vast oarrier to the rt. of the Val
Champorcher, which opens into the
Val d'Aosta (Bte. 134), at Fort Bard.

The descent to the head of the
Val Champorcher is rather difficult,
from the steepness of the path and
looseness of the soiL This difficulty
ends before reaching a little chapel or
oratory, called Notre DamedelaNeige.
This oratory is placed on the brink of
one of several httle lakes, formed by
the melting of the glaciers. No spot
can be more savage than this, or give
.a more impressive idea of dreary soli-
tude.

The path now skirts, as it leaves it
on the rt., a dark and enormous moun-
tain mass, and descends rapidly down
the valley, but nothing habitable ap-
pears. The valley deepens consi-
derably on the 1. below the path : the
eye can trace its course down towards
Bard, and a path across it is also
seen, which leads from the village of
Champorcher by the Chalets of Do-
donev into the valley of Fenis.

After skirting a buttress of the
mountain the path reaches the bank
of a torrent just where it issues from
a glacier ; then, crossing another
ridge over a beautiful pasturage, it
descends to the borders of a little lake
at the foot of the Col di Beale.

[From this spot to Fort Bard down
the valley of Champorcher is about
4 hrs. About 12 hrs. altogether from
Cogne to Bard. The road is very
bad, scarcely fit for mules, although
it was repaired in 1854, when tne
King of Piedmont and Duke of Genoa,
with a large suite, made ahn33t1ang ex-
cursion in this district. (See Rte. 134.)]

Turning abruptly to the rt. the path

leads in less than an hour to the
mit of the ridge separating the head
Val Champorcher from the £. branek]
of the Val Soanna, sometimes ca&e^j
Col di Ouxmporoher and sometimes Cbi]
di ReaU' I^m this crest one of fcbel
finest Alpine panoramas is presented.

From the crest the descent is papid.
Passing to the L under a beetMug
mountain, the path skirts a deep
ravine, leaves on the rt. some old adits
of a mine worked unprofitable for
silver, and, after a tortuous descent of
2 hrs., passes by some ch&lets. The
level ofthe pine fbrests is soon reached^
and deep in a little plain is seen tke
church and village of Val JPrOj the
highest in the v al Soanna. If the
traveller arrive late at Val Pra, the
worthy old peasant Giuseppe Danna
will give him his best welcome.

At the opposite extremity of this
little plain, the path descends by a
stunted pine forest, and through the
depths of the valley to the vi]£ge of
Peney, and by one or two little hamlets
to the village of dampanella. There
is nothing peculiar in this part of the
valley, until just before reaching the
hamlet of Bosco del Boco : were
are the remains of a slip from the
mountain, which took place in 1 833,
and strewed the little plain with rocks
and stones. At the namlet of Val-
prato, 2^ hrs. from Val Pra^ the
track falls into that from the Col de
TArietta.

f hr. Bonco : there is an Inn^ which
hun^r and fatigue alone can make en-
dur(U)le ; below it, a bridge, in a wild
and striking situation, leads across s
ravine to the village of Ingpria.

The inhabitants of the valley oi
Soanna wear a singular sort of shoe
or boot; it is m^de of coarse woollen,
tied tight round the ankle, but half as
broad again as the foot; its use gmi
an awkwardness to their gait.

Below Ingria the valley becomes f
ravine of singularly wild and gno^
character. Vast precipices, garf*
and forests, olfep altOToately, «>ine-
times together, their magnifilcent ma-

Fied^' ^ Savoy,

EOUTE 146. — PONTK. COURGNi.

421

terials for Alpine soenerv. ThQ road
deseenda to the level of the river, here
so henuoed ui by roQk^ that it has
Iseeii neoessary to cut a pasaa^
tliTough thom. Enormons overhang-
ing masnes oloae the proximate {Murt
of the v«jQey, hiding Fonte from yiew
altogether, whilst 1;^yQi»d it the pUdns
of Piedmont appear.

A path down through a forest, and
near some qnarries, leads to the Villa
!N'uova of Ponte, the cotton-works
established by the Baron da Port,
and aboat hajf a mile beyond is

2} hra« BoifAe (Itm^ tolerable, al
Valentino)fl a singular old town ; its
streets lined with arcades* under whidi
the market is held.^

The picturesQue situation of this
place at the connueiice of the Soanna
and the Oreo oan hardly be e^u^eded,
rich in vineyards, enclosed by moun-
tains, offering, in oombintLtion vnth
the surroonding scenery, the towers
and ruins of two feudal caatl^ in the
most striking situations, and the head
of the vaUev closed by the snowy
peaks of the loftv rcmge which divides
the Val d'Orco worn 3ie Tarentaise,

There are many spots about Ponte
which offer views of singular beauty.
The Ch, of Sta, Marin on an eminence,
i hr.'s walk below the town, com>
mands a fine view of the Junction and
of the valley as far as Courgn^.

The establishment of the Fabbrica,
the first cotton works known in Fiedo
mont, has given employment to several
thousands of men, women, and chil-^
dren. The raw matwial is imported
from Genoa.

Ponte is distant 6 hours from Tnrin,
to which city a diligence goes 3 times
a week. There is an esusellent car-
nage-road to the capital, which passes
through

CourgnS—(Inn: Leone d'Oro, tolera-
ble)—a large town on the W. side of
the Oreo. A good walker may go from
Coffne to Courgn^ in a day across the
.Col de I'Arietta; but the stran^r
should get the assistance of a gmde
over the CoL From Courgn^ the road |

to Turin continues through V alperea,
celebrated for having one of the
noblest campaniles in Piedmont ;
Bivarolo; Lombardore, where the
river Mallone is crossed; and Lemie;
besides numerous villages. All those
places named are towns, and some are
large. They are situated in the richest
part of Piedmont, amidst Indian corn,
vines, mulberry and fiff-trees. Those
which are placed on we subsidences
of the Alps, a little above the plains,
are in the most beautiful situations,
surrounded by vine-covered hills, and
backed by lofty ranges of mountains.
Little idea can be formed of the rich-
ness and beauty of Piedmont, except
by those who have skirted the moun-
tains on the borders of its neh plains.
The traveller who enters it abruptly,
by the usual routes, at right angles,
across the chain of the Alps, sees too
little of its actual and picturesque
richness to estimate justly this fine
coimtry.

jc2

422

ROUTE 147. — PONTE TO VILLENEUVE.

Sect. n.

ROUTE 147.

PONTE TO VILLENEUVE, BY THE VAL
8AVARANCHE.

Hrs.
Ponte.

Locana, Ghar-Toad ends . . 2i

Novaaca 2i

Inn and BaUus of Ceresol. . 3

Gbapis H

Pont 5

ViUeneave 5i

About 20 hours' walk : distances
approximate.

The Baths of Ceresole Reals a£ford
fair accommodation to travellers.
Mail-carriage from Courgn^ (Rte.
146) to liO^na, where baggage and
riding mules may be secured bj
writing beforehand to the Director of
the Baths.

At the chalets milk, cheese, and
butter may be had, but the traveller
must carry bread and wine when
he visits these wild valleys ; and he
is especially cautioned against wan-
dering there without a careful and
well-reconmiended ^de. At No-
vasca, or Ceresol, Giuseppe Bruscha,
better known by the name of Muot,
from the loss of one hand, may be
heard of ; he is a good guide, an active
mountaineer, a capital chasseur, and a
good-tempered, intelligent feUow.

On leaving Ponte to ascend the
Val d'Orco, me road continues on the
left bank of the river throughout its
course. The scenery is very fine;
the forms of the mountains vast and
grand, rugged and broken, clothed
with magnificent chestnut-trees, and
frequentty exhibiting the eifects of
disintegration in the enormous blocks
which have fallen from the heights,
in many places in such quantity that
the road is carried over or around the
debris with such sinuosity and undu-
lation, that the variety of views they
aid to present gives a peculiar cha-
racter to this valley.

About 3 m. from Ponte is the vil-
lage of Sparone, Many little ham-

lets lie on the road, and many usines
are worked for small iron wares virith
tUts, and no stream is allowed to re-
main idle, where, at a small cost,
and with simple machinery, it can be
made to tilt a hammer, or move a saw.

Locana, a litUe town, the streets |
narrow and dirty. Inn: Cafe' delle
Alpe, tolerable.

Above Locana the vaUey soon be-
comes dreary, and the road more
rneged, and some smelting-houses
and forges are reached.

As far as lalla the road is practicable
for chars. Above, there is only a
mule-path, which winds up amidst the
enormous masses of fallen granite
and serpentine, some of which have
blocked up the course of the torrent,
and compelled it to find another
channel — ^these, and the savage moun-
tains which now domineer in the val-
ley, g^ve it ereat wildness. Yet the
tortuous road rising over these eboule-
mens often leads to beautiful little
plains between them.

There are several hamlets above
Locana, as St. Marco, Arsone, and
La Frera, but each is more and more
miserable, until the climax of wretch-
edness is found at Novasca, which has
pointed a proverb —

Novasca, Novaaca,
Poco pane, lunga taaca.

Here a grand cataract bursts out
from a rift in a mountain mass of
granite, where all is denuded to abso-
lute sterility. Below it a thousand
enormous masses of granite boulders
are brought down and thrown together
by the falL The passage across the
nver, amon^ these rocks, is a curioas
specimen of Alpine bridge-building:
poles and planks are placed from rock
to rock, and almost under the spr&j
of the cataract. Beyond the passage
of this torrent the road stUl ascends
on the left bank of the Oreo.

About 1 m. above Novasca is <
gorge called the Soalare de Cerf
solj where lofty precipices overhaii^
the course of the Oreo, whidi
tumbles in a succession of cata-
racts. The path which « leads to
the summit is cut out of the rocksi

JR^&d^- ^ Savoy.

ROUTE 147. — VAL SAVARANCHE.

423

^ndL a flight of steps (Scalare), prac-
ticable for mules, is carried up
tlurough the gorge; sometimes on the
l^r-ink of the precipice ; at others,
c\xt so deep into its side that the
xocky canopy overhangs it. This ex-
-trax>rdinary path extends half a mile.
Oirosses fixed against the rock mark
-tlie spots of accidents.

The termination of this wild road
is like a winding staircase, in >irhich
it is difficult for a mule to turn. On
emerging the traveller finds himself on
a plam where barley is grown, and an
abundance of rich meadow-land. Im-
mediately before him is the snowy
range dividing the Yal Fomo from
the Val d'Orco, and across which a
col leads in a few hours to Gros
Cavallo.

Alittleway within the plain of Cere-
sol the valley turns to the right and
the Oreo washes the base of a mountain,
where the Comte d'Aglie has some
silver-mines. The ore is smelted in the
valley. Near the works there is a
spring of water slightly ferruginous,
but so highly carbonated that the gas
escapes from it in a sparkling state.
It is almost tasteless; when drunk
at the spring it is delicious. About'
10 min. from the spring, Baths of
Ceresole, a rough but tolerably com-
fortable Inn has been built, frequented
by Turinese in the summer. This
affords the only available head-
quarters for excursions in this part
of the Graian Alps.

The Levanna, seen on the left as the
traveller ascends the valley, is a very
grand mountain, but the height has
been exaggerated, being probably
about 12,000 ft. Three of the peaks,
near together, bear the name of the
Trots Bees,

The valley vndens near (30 min.)
the few and scattered houses of Ceresol,
the highest of its villages, about 1 hr.
above the Scalare.

To shorten the next day's journey,
some travellers may think it better to
ascend the valley yet higher up to

The Chdlets of ChapiSj and, if mules
are required, to engage them at
Ceresol to come up the following
morning to Chapis early enough to

insure arrival, in good time, at Ville-
neuve, in' the Val d'Aosta, 10 hrs.
walk, in the evening of the same day.
Fatigue only, however, is spared — ^no
time is gained by riding.

Time fast walking across the pass : —

From Chapis to the summit . 2 10

„ Croix d'Arolette ... 1 45

„ Pont 0 40

„ Gionx 2 0

„ Villeneuve 3 36

[From Ceresol, the extraordinary
pass of the Gaiese, leading from the
head of the Val d'Orco to Tignes, in
the upper valley of the Isere (Bte.
156), is first seen, above a per-
pendicular streak of snow, called the
Grand Coluret, which must be climbed
to cross the ridge of glaciers which
surmounts it.

Above the hamlet of Chapis (where
the only night quarters are a hay-
loft) the pa^ of the Nivolet separates
from that of the Galese, which at
first ascends a steep gully, and then
crosses pastures to

The Chalets of Serue : here milk
and cheese may be had. Beyond
Serue the scene perhaps surpasses in
sterility and savageness any other in
the Alps. A narrow path leads along
the steep slope until it stops abruptly
at a guUy in the mountain called the
Little Coluret. To ascend above this
it is necessary to climb along the
face of a precipice overhanging, at a
great height, a lake at the head of
the valley. Having climbed round
it, the plain of BeloUa is attained.
This plain is the bed of an ancient
lake, now filled with an enormous
glacier, which streams down from
the left. This glacier must be crossed
by a very steep ascent over ice; above
it is reached the gully of the Grand
Coluret, rising at least 1500 ft. above
th« glacier. This is an extremely
steep channel or couloir, partly filled
with snow, and enclosed between
precipitous rocks. Having climbed
up ch)se to the rocks, on the right
side, it is at last necessary to cross
the snow itself that lies in the hollow;
this is not dangerous to a steady

424 BTE. 147.— OOL DB OALESE — DE LA. CROIX DE NIVOLET. Seot;. IL

heftd, but a dip would precipitalB the
onluckj traveller at least 2000 ft.
On the other side the fbotin? is firm,
and he will soon reach the glacier on
the summit of the Coi fU Gaie$e, about
10,000 ft. above the lerel of the
sea, where one of the most glorious
views in the Alps rewards him: he
looks oat over tne head of the Yal
Is^re, upon Laval and Tignes.
To this valley the descent on the
side of the Tarentaise is not difficult.
It lies over snow till the upper pas-
turtB are reached. In about 1 hr. the
path enters a gorge, and becomes ex-
ceedingly narrow. Emerging from
this, the first chllets, & Chanes, ap-
pear. From these an easy descent
over meadows to Fomel, about 40 min.
from Laval rRte. 156). About 9 hrs.
fi*om Ceresol to Tienes.

In descending the Col de Galese
towards Ceresol there is less difficulty
than in the ascent, though it seems
worse, for the feet sink deep and firmly
in the loose soil of both tne Colnrets.
The Little Coluret can be safely de-
scended, though, from the looseness
of the soil, the ascent by it is nearly
impracticable.

The traveller to the Val d*Aosta,
who has given a day to the Col de
Galese, may sleep at the chalets of
8drue, and from thenoe reach the
Croix de Nivolet, without redescend-
ing to Chapis. There is another diffi-
cmt pass leading from Chapis to
Bonneval, in the valley of the Arc,
by the Ool de OamK Ascending S.W.
by the chAlets of Cemera, the track
crosses the Oreo near its source.
The ascent continues across a glacier
which lies on the N. side of the col.
This id much broken up by crevasses,
requiring caution and an experienced
guide. In 1 hr. after reaching the
glacier^ the summit of the col, about
10,000 ft. in height, is attained. In
the descent, which is steep but not
difficult, the source of the Arc is
passed, and below it the hamlet of
tCcot. Before reaching Bonneval (5^
hrt. from Chapis) the traveller passes
an extraordinary scene of desolation
called Clapier de la Tralmta. It is
said that ibe ancient site of Bonneval

is here bnried by the fall of a wnat
mass of mountain.]

To eo from Chapis to the Val
varan^e it is not necessary to pmss
by Serue. Before the abrupt ascent
to the Alp of Serue commences, a
torrent* is seen descending from, the
right. Up the left bank of this tor-
rent a difficult cig^ag path ascends
and at the end of 1^ hr. leads to some
chalets even higher than those of
Serue. The views of the vast range
of the Levanna are of the most
sublime character. Above these cha-
lets the path is a series of fli^^ts
of steps rudely cut in the rook. [Be-
yond this a scene of utter steri-
lity is presented: numerous Alpine
lakes or tarns are seen, but no pros-

rit of escape, no path from this cui
sac seems to offer itself; yet in the
most improbable of all directions
there is one, which actually lies up
and over the rugged and pinnacled
crest of the boundary to the left,
offering a path more difficult than
that of the Qemmi, without the pro-
tection of its parapets. The summit
attained, the scene around, viewed
from this crest, known by the name
of the Col de la Croix de Nivolety is
one without parallel in the Alps for
the wild peculiarities observed on
looking back into the savage valley
just left. In it many lakes appear,
and the brow above the last chalets
cuts abruptly a^^ainst the deep haie
of the Yal d'Orco, which is sur-
mounted by the Levanna.

On looking on the other side of the
col into the Flan de Nivolet, which is
the head of the valley of Savaranche,
many lakes are also seen at the foot of
the glaciers of the Nivolet, and directly
across the head of the Flan de Kivolet
is seen the Ool de Eonet, leading into
the Yal de Bhdmes, and so, by a
somewhat longer route, to YiUeneuve.

The descent towards the Plan de
Nivolet is much easier than towards
the Yal d'Orca ; and having attuned
the banks of the lakes, a nearly le^
path leads through the fine pasturagd
at the head of l^e Plan de Nivolet-,
yet not a tree or shrub grows herei

fed*- 4r Savoy* ROUTE 148. — ^val grisanche.

425

if
ft

i
t

b.zB.d the plain is exposed to fearful
rfcorms in winter.

JCn about an hour from the lakes

chalets of this plain are reached.

Yie want of other fuel than dried

•^dung g^ves a filth/ aspect to

til::^ese chOets. Below them the ground

of the plain becomes bog^j, and

l3X^>ken Up into thousands of knolls.

.A^t the end of another hour these

skx^ left, to descend by a path lying

o'v^er bare and smooth granite, like

tiiiat on the route of the Grimsel,

dlx>Td Handek* After a consider-

«Li>ie descent the traveller suddenly

finds himself on the brink of a yast

precipice, and oyerlooking the yU>

Itage of Pont, in the deep yalley,

a thousand feet below him. Here,

on the edge of the precipice, a cross is

placed, which is seen from below ;

tliie spot is called the Croix d'Aro-

letta. From it, one of those sublime

scenes which occasionally bursts upon

the traveller in the Alps opens upon

him. The three vast peaks of the

Grand Paradis, breaking through

their enormous vestment of glaciers,

irise before him ; and on the rt., a

black mountain, that overhangs the

path by which he must descend to

J^&nt, Down these precipices he must

wind for more than an hour to reach

this village, the highest in the Yel

Savaranche, passing on his descent a

magnificent cataract.

But here the striking and peculiar
scenery of this pass ends ; the yalley
below Pont is natrow, and with very
little cultivation at the bottom. On
the 1. a path leads over the mountain
of Oauseiles to the Yal de Bhgmes ;
and another on the rt. crosses to the
Val de Cogne, by the Col de la Oombe
de Cogne, Near where the path to it
quits the valley is the village of Bien,
where a wealtny peasant v^ accom-
modate travellers; two good chasseurs
and guides live here.

6rwuxj or Yal Savaranche, is the
principaJ village in the yalley, and
here re^shment may be obtained;
but the sleeping quarters are bad.
The cur4 will, however, receive tra-
vellers. Travellers who may vary
the route by crossing the ridge be-

tween this and the Val de Khdmes
may also find lodging at the cur^s
house at the village of Notre Dame
de Rhymes.

There are many little conmiunes
in this valley* Near to one of these,
Pesai, an avalanche fell in 1832 ; it
destroyed some cows, and three men
perished. Crosses mark the spot
where their bodies Were found.

Before reaching Gioux there is a
picturesque spot in the valley, where
two villages are perched opposite each
other, Tignietti and Crettom ; and
here the mountains are seen which
bound the valley of Aosta on the side
opposite to the Val Savaranche.

In the lower part of the valley the
path continues at a vast height above
the course of the river bank, on its
rt. ; as it approaches the Yal d' Aosta,
a magnificent view of Mont Blanc,
towering over all the intermediate
mountains, opens to the traveller.
Here the Yal de Bh^mes joins the
Yal Savaranche, and both enter the
valley Of Aosta. The end of the Yal
de Bhdmes appears like a table land
on the mountain side^ studded with
viUageSj rich in meadows and vines,
walnut and chestnut trees.

Prom this elevation the descent to
Villeneuve is rapid, fatigiling, and
difficult ; and the journey from Chapis
to the Yal d' Aosta (Bte. 134) will be
found to be quite enough for one day.
At Yilleneuve there is neither decent
inn nor car, do you may be prepared
to continue on for 1 hr. 40 m. to

Aosta (Rtfe. 134).

BOUTE 148.

AOSTA TO BOURG ST. MAURICfE, IN THE
TARENTAISE, BY THE VAL GMSANCHE
AW D THE COL DU MONT.

Aosta (Bte. 134).

TDrogne(Rte, 134) 3 hrs. from Aosta.
Hence to Bourg is about 18 hrs.

The entrance to the Val Grisanche
by the torrent which flows into the
V al d* Aosta is utterly impracticable.
It is necessary to cross the torrent by
the new bridge, and immediately be-

426 ROUTE 148. — VAL GRISANCHE. SEUIS. COL DU LAC. Sect. II.

hind the little dirty town of Ivrogne
to pass a mill, and ascend through
orchards and meadows that appear to
lead away from the Grisanche. At
the head of these the path arrives
abruptly below some rocks ; thence
turning and ascending along their
bases, the traveller shortly finds him-
self in the path which is carried high
above the 1. bank of the Grisanche,
and which leads up the valley.

The scenery here is of a strik-
ing character. The river roars so
deep in the gorge as scarcely to be
heard ; and the rocks which bound its
course are so nearly perpendicular,
that the tops of lofty and enormous
pines, rooted in the rifts below, can
almost be touched by the hand of the
traveller in passing above them.
Overhanginff tne paw, the mountains
so close in, tnat the light of day does
not half illuminate this deep and sa-
vage defile. On a sort of terrace, on
the opposite banks, the ruins of a
feudal castle are seen frowning over
the black ravine, and fitted for tales
of romance. From it, the view into
the valley of Aosta must be beautiful,
but what access there is to these ruins
cannot be traced, or even imagined,
from the opposite bank, though this
is so hieh above the torrent, that the
path seldom approaches it nearer than
200 ft.

This narrow defile continues during
an ascent of more than 2 hrs. Some-
times the path is carried on ter-
races, rudely formed of loose stones
placed across rifts in the precipices;
in others, the buttresses of rock are
cut away to make the road high and
wide enough to pass.

At length, at the upper extremity
of the defile, the valley opens at the
milage of Seris, a place which fur-
nishes only the most miserable accom-
modation. The passage up the Gri-
sanche to Seris is all in the valley really
worth a visit from the Val d* Aosta,
and it well deserves from the tourist
in that valley an examination as far as
Seris. [From Seris a second pass
called the Col du Lac leads to the
village of Ste. Foi (see below). It
lies tarther N. than the Col du Mont,

passing near the summit a small lab
and a chapel dedicated to St. Oral
The distance is about the same, bn^^
the path is rougher and less fre-
quented.]

The sterility of the Val <ie Gri-
sanche above Seris is striking^ ; it is
rugged, and strewn with enormous
blocks which have been detached, from
the mountains, from whence still im-
pending masses threaten the passing
traveller, and numerous crosses record
the frequency of fatal accidents. I>e^
rifts in the sides of the precipices ar^
channels to cataracts that pour their
white foam from the dark recesses ; in
some places the black precipitous
slopes of the mountain are alvirays wet
ana herbless, and reeking as if from
some recent avalanche.

For more than two hours up tke
valley from Seris, the same character
of scenery prevails ; some miserable
hovels and a few fields of stun:;ed
barley are found in the bottom of the
valley ; on its sides there is only the
dark precipice or black forest of
pines. The head of the valley is
bounded by the immense glaciers of
Clou.

From the head of the vaUe^ there
is a pass — the Col du Clou — ^by which
the traveller may reach La Tuile de
Ste. Foi or Tignes. It is hig^h and
steep, with considerable slopes of
snow, but not difficult for a moun-
taineer.

At Fomel,, the highest village in
the vaUey, the route to the Col da
Mont leaves the Val Grisanche^
ascends a steep path on the right by
a torrent, and reaches some chalets
on a small but fine pasturage. Above
these the path skirts the brink of pre-
cipices over a deep gorge, and enters
a oasin in the mountains filled with
rocks and stones brought down from
the surrounding mountains, the sum-
mits of which are crested with glaciers.
The ascent is very steep for nearly '2
hrs. up a trackless loose path, and up
fatiguing slopes of snow, steep, au
many hundreds of feet across. Frw
the Col, which lies immediately 9.
of the peak of the Ormelune, 10,82B
ft., the scene is very fine, not only

'*ed*- ^ Savoy. boute 148.— <x)l du mont. val is^re.

427

_ . tlie deep yalley of stones towards
E*iedinoiit, but also towards Savoy,
wliere nature presents a gentler aspect
Vxi the mountains which bound the val
31s^re ; for the Col is so narrow that
l30th can be seen from the summit.
The Col du Mont was the scene of
some desperate conflicts during the
-wrars of the Revolution between the
Trench and the Piedmontese. Gene-
X'al Moulins, who commanded the
former, after many efforts succeeded
in gaining the position by advancing
<luring a snow-storm, when such as-
sailants were not expected, and re-
tained it in spite of not less than ten
efforts to repossess it. The height of
the Col, from the absence of all vege-
tation, must exceed 8500 ft.

After passing; down a steep path,
leaving on the L black precipices — the
haunts of the chamois — the beautiful
pasturages belonging to the commune
of St. Foi appear in a deep basin,
bounded below by a forest. In less
than 2 hrs. the highest chalets in this
basin are reached, and in another
hour the chalets of Bonnet, where the
track from the Col du Lac (see above)
falls in on the rt. [From these chalets
a path turning nearly due N. leads in
.3 hrs. to the Col de Tacqui, or Col de la
Lys Blanche, over which lies a difficult
pass to La Tuile, on the road of the
Little St Bernard (Rte. 149). The
descent, lies over a portion of the great
glacier of Ruitor.J Beyond Bonnet
the road winds steeply down through a
forest, and at length emerges to cross
a torrent and enter the village of Mu-
raille, where another bridge over a
deep ravine leads to the hamlet of
Mazure ; thence traversing a brow
on the mountain side, the road de-
scends to the

Village of Ste. Foi in the Val Isere,
The approach to it is strikingly fine,
for one of the most beautiful moun-
tains in the Alps, bounds the opposite
side of the Val Is^re. From its base
in the . torrent, far below the terrace
where Ste. Foi stands, to its summit,
which is peaked with a triangular
pyramid of snow, the entire hei^t of
this stupendous mountain is seen. At
La Tuile cfe Ste, Foi, a village 2 ncu S. of

Ste. Foi, lives Francois Ruet, an excel-
lent guide and sportsman, who will
acconunodate travellers. Chamois are
not scarce, pheasants and ptarmigan
abound, and Dears have been known.
There are excellent trout in the Lac
de Tignes.

From Ste. Foi the descent by a paved
road is very steep to Uie banks of the
Is^re. Before reaching the river a
torrent is crossed, which forms, a little
way up the valley, a fine cataract. It
is difficult to get a view of it. This is
the stream which from above descends
between the villages of Massure and
Muraille.

From the bridge the path lies across
meadows for some way, and on the
banks of the Isere. Soon after rising,
it leads to the village of Scez, at the
foot of the Little St. Bernard. [From
Scez to Chapiu (Rte. 139) is a walk of
3J hrs. up the narrow valley of the
Versoie, passing Bonneval, where there
is a small InnJ} From Scez you cross
cultivated ground, to a bridge thrown
over the torrent of the Reclus. Here
there is abundant evidence of the
destructive character of the torrent
after storms, in the sand, rocks, and
stones which mark its course at such
times. Soon after the road passes by
some coarse wooUen cloth-works, and
some forges for making small iron
ware. Then across the winter bed of
the furious Versoie, which descends
from Bonneval, and below an old
round tower belonging to the vUlage
of Chatelard. From this place the
road to St. Maurice is wide and ex-
cellent, and ere long it is to be hoped
a road of the same width and excel-
lence will lead from this valley to the
Val d'Aosta by the pass of the Little
St. Bernard.

Bourg St. Maurice. Inn: H. des
Voyageurs, comfortable, rather dear.

Aosta to Lanslehourg. Travellers
bound for the upper valley of the Is^re
(Rte. 156) should not take the rt.
branch of the valley, which leads over
the Col du Mont, but continue from
Fornel to the head of the main valley,
and the Coldu Clou, descending through
very fine scenery to Tignes (Rte. 156).
It is a very long day's journey.

X 3

488

BOtrrs 149. — cotmiiAYmm to bovbb s. maubige. Sect« IL

ROUTE 149.

COUBMAYEUB TO BOUBa ST. KATTRtCE,
BT THB LITTLB St. 6ERNABD — THE
BELVEDEBE.

Gounnayetir.

Pr« St. Didler .... 1 0

LaToiUe l 45

Gantine ...... 3 0

Hospice 1 15

Gantine 0 30

8u Germain 1 10

Soea 10

Boorg 0 40

9 20

The charge for a mule over the
ptLSBf 12 frs., and for muleteer 12 frs.
^totoO, 24 fr.

Thii is one of the easiest pafiBes
over the Alps, and probably one of
the most ancient. These and other
reasons render it probable that Han<^
nibal made his famous passage into
Italy bv it.

Oooa carriage-road firom Cour-
mayeur (Rte. 134), by Pre' St Didier,
to La Tuille) thence to Hospice char-
road) good road again, opened ftom
th# Hospice to Bourg St. Maurice,
1663.

There is a short cut for pedestrians
by the rt. bank of the stream from
Courmayeur (Bte. 134) to Pr^ St.
Didier (carriage 4 fr.)

The road to the Little St. Bernard
begins to ascend immediately behind
Tt4 St. Didier by a series of steep
zigzags, presenting new and striking
scenes of the valley below, and of Mont
Blanc, especially from the mouth of the
Tunnel. On reaching the level ground
above, that overhangs the deep rift
in the mountain through which the
branch of the Doire from La Tuille
bursts through into the plain of St.
Didier, the scene is fine. It borders
a. pine forest^ of which some vast old
trunks hang over the precipices, and
help to conceal the deep torrent which
^oars l^eneath* The road how goeq
^I'ongf ttl^n It b»»H of i\^9 Stream

through fine woods, contilittiilly as-
cending and descending till th<& vil-
lage of La Balme is reached (1 hr.
10 min. fi?om Pr^ Si. Didier). Here the
road crosses to the rt. bank and ivinds
steeply upbn the mountain side &t a
great neieht above the bed of the tor-
rent; it being impracticable in the
depth of the valley, which is here a
ravine, to form a road. There are
occasional peeps of the river, and
there is one of particular in^rest,
where the avalanches which descend
from the Cramont fall into the ravine,
sometimes in such quantity that the
snow remains, under the shadow of
the mountain, unmelted for the year.
This is the spot, in the opinion of
those who have most careftilly ex>
amined into the subject, where Han-
nibal and his army, in their desceni
from the Alps, found the way, by
which they could have descended
into the valley, destroyed, and his
elephants and horses passed with diffi-
culty over a bridge of snow. The road
formerly lay on the L bank of the
river. Since 1800, the present road,
to avoid this liabUity, has been made
on the other side, high above all risk
from such an accident.

About ^ hr. from La Balme the
road returns to the 1. bank, and soon
after the ravine is left the village of
La Tuille (^Trm small) is reached, and
the glaciers of Buitor open upon the
traveller.
, [A short way above La TuiUe the
stream from the glacier of the Roitor
may be crossed, and a path taken to
descend into the valley of Aosta, by
some beautiful pasturages, and through
a forest that overhangs the precipices
above St. Didier, whence the view of
Mont Blanc is inferior only to that
from the Cramont. After crossing
the Camp of Prince Thomas, the path
descends down the steep mountain
side on the rt bank of the Doire. It
is nearly In this course that the Sar-
dinian government contemplates the
formation of a good road over the
Little St Bernard, to connect the
Pays d* Aosta with the Tarentaise.]

The road to the Little St ^emard
tun^s db^rp to the vU at the Mdg^

'^%&<^ 4r Savoy.

ROUTE 149.— LITTLE ST. BERITARD.

429

»f Xta Tuille, ascends rapidly to
^<ynt Serrant — the last Tillage — and
%^t&r crossing a very deep ravine over a
prooden bridge, and passing the village,
becoines more steep, but presents
little interest except to the geolo-
gist. At the top of the steep ascent is
-tine Cantine, where tefreshmeHts can be
ol:»taiB.ed, and the road then enters
on A fine pasturage on a plain about
a leaigue long and •} a league wide,
iiottnded on the L by the Belvedere
and the Yiillaisan, and on the rt. by
the Belle-face, at the foot of which
moantain lies a little lake — ^the Yelnai,
which is left in its deep basin on the
rtb After passing the ruins of some
defences thrown up dunng the war
of the Revolution, when il^ance and
Sardinia struggled for possession of
these summits, the road passes the
hi^hbst point, and the traveller sees
before him, at the opposite extremity
of the plain, the hospice I'ebuilt.

On the plain, however, there are
objects of mgh antiquity. A citcle of
atones on the highest point of the plain
bears still the name of the Cirque
d'AnnibaL The stones are rude
masses, varying in sisso) none very
large; they are about 10ft. apart, and
the circle measures nearly 260 yds.
round* The tradition is, that Hanni-
bal here held a council of war. That
he stayed on the summit of the Alps,
and waited for his stragglers, is an
historical fkot j and^ independent of
other and abundant evidence, no plain
on the summit of any other of the
Alpine passes is so well adapted for
the eneampment of his army as this.

Near to the circle there is a column
standing, the Colonize de Joux^ sup-
posed to be of Celtic origin. It is
nearly 20 ft. high^ and 3 ft. in diameter.
It is composed of Cipollino^ a variety
of marble which abounds in the Cra-
mont. The frontier line of France
and Italy passes along the crest of the
paas. About 1^ mt &om the Colonne
de JonK is the

Hospice, situated at the S.W. ex-
tremity of the plain, oldse to a little
lake. Bough accommodation, but
great civility.
Tl^9 Iio8pic9 wae fooQile^ b/ St,

Behiard, but notiiing of its history is
nreserved^ The Great St Bernard
has absorbed aU thd interest, though,
if the veil of the obscure history of
the Little St. Bernard cotild be re-
moved, it would perhaps surpass in
early importance that of its great
rival ; for Celtic TOmains still exist
there, and the foundations df a temple
constructed of Roman brick are traced
on the col, near the column. The
present Hospice belongs to the Mili-
tary and BeligiouB Order of St. Mau-
rice et St* Lazare* Ih one part of the
building resides an ecclesiastic, Who
furnishes gratuitous hospitality to
needy travellets; and the other part
of the building was in 1859 converted
into a tolerably comfortable Inn (with
a very civil landlord), where those
who can afford to pay are lodged.
This would form excellent head-quar-
tets for excursioiis to the Belvedere,
&<it One ot 2 dogs are kept here.

[From the hospice it is easy to
reach the Adjoining peaks of the VaU
laisan, or the Belvedere. The former
is reached in 1 hr. ; the latter, more
difficult, but commanding a finer view,
in 1 hr. 40 mln. Mont Blanc^ which
is not seen from the Col of the Little
St. Bernard, is from either summit a
magnificeut object. The view is of
great extent, commanding the moun-
tains far S. of the Tarentaise, and
looking down upon enormous glaciers
streaming into the valleys E. of the
Belvedere; but the views are inferior
to those discovered from the Cra-
mont.]

[Travellers bound to the upper
valley of the Is^re may shorten the
way to Ste. Foi (Rte. 148) by ascend-
ing, nearly due S. from the hospice,
the ridge of the Traversette, to which
cannon were transported during the
revolutionary war. The descent to
Ste. Foi is leather stee}), but this path
saves nearly 2 hrs.]

The descent to Bourg St. Mau-
rice begins immediately from the
Hospice by a good carriage-road. At
the Cantine refreshments can be obi
^M^ed} the road soon after t^kes tq

430

ROUTE 150. — SALLENCHES TO ALBERTVILLE.

Sect.

the rt. bank of the stream, and con>
tinues oyer pasturages resembling
those of the Col de Balme, till it
descends steeply to the village of St.
Germain (/«n very poor).

Thence, following the old mule-
path, a steep set of zigzags lead down
to a bridge over the torrent called La
Kecluse, which is overhung at the point
of passage by an enormous bank of
g3rpsum, bearing the name of the
Jioche Blanche. In situation it per-
fectly agrees with Folybius' account,
in the passage of Hannibal, of such a
rock, and the events which occurred
there. This is one of the chief points
of evidence, and, taken with the
others, furnish a mass which must
force conviction on the minds of un-
prejudiced inquirers — ^that by this pass
of the Alps Hannibal entered Italy.
General Melville, in his examination,
the basis of De Luc's treatise ; Wick-
ham and Cramer from their research-
es; and Brockedon from his repeated
visits; nearly all travellers in the Alps,
who have examined the other passes
in reference to this question, have
come to the conclusion that on this
line only can the narrative of Foly-
bius, the only worthy authority upon
the question, be borne out. (See
Quarterly Review^ 245).

Following the mule-path or the
long zigzags of the new high-road,
the traveller reaches the village of

Scez, 2 m. farther is

Bourg St. Maurice (^IrM\ H. des
Voyageurs, passable). A poor village,
ratner prettily situated at the junc-
tion of several valleys. Mules and
side-saddles are to found here, but
scarce at times ; 8 fr. to the Col,
15 to Courmayeur. Diligences at
very inconvenient hours to Moutiers,
and thence to Albertville and Qha-
mousset Stat, on Rly. to Chamb^ry.
(Rte. 156).

To the Col dlseran. (Rte. 156).

ROUTE 150.

8ALLENCHES TO L*h6pITAL CON]

(albertville), by uarN'E-

9f leagues— 9 hrs. steady -wralking.

From SaUenches (Rte. 138) a nev
route is being constructed, wHicli vriB
one day open a char or carriage com-
munication between the valley of iht
Arve and that of the Is^re, in the
Tarentaise. It is still incomplete
between Flumet and Ugine.

The road which has oeen made or
improved to Meg^ve rises directly
up the steep side of one of the sl<^>e8
of Mont Foron to the village d[
Oomblou, about an hour's ascent
Its gskj spire is seen from the road to
Chamoum, near Passy, and also firco
the valley of Maglans in approaching
to it. From each zigzag in the
ascent to Comblou there is a most
beautiful prospect, well worthy the
traveller's walk firom SaUenches or
St. Martin's. It commands the valley
of Maglans on one side, and the
Varens and the upper valley of the
Arve on the other. The Aiguilles de
Varens rise in great grandeur directly
in front of the spectator ; and on the
rt. of the upper Arve, ail the peaks
and glaciers of Mont Blanc, and its
extreme sununit, are as distinctly
seen as in a model. Few spots for
such prospects can vie with the vil-
lage of Comblou.

A little beyond Comblou the high-
est part of the road is passed. Thence
the distance is a league, over a road
nearly level, to

Megeve (Inn: Soleil d'Or). From
Meg^ve a road leads over the Pas
Sion, a col which divides the valley
of Haute Luce from the valley of the
Arly, by the shortest course to
Beaufort.

[Megdve is the place from whence
the Mont Jcii may be most easilr
ascended (5 hrs. walk going and re-
turning). The summit (8670 ft) is
the finest point of view on the W.
side of Mont Blanc. It may also be
reached from SaUenches, St. Gervaia,
or Contamines. There is a footpath

^%ed^' 4r Savoy, route 150. — uqine. oonflans.

431

St. Oervais, commanding splendid
e^ws all the way, which turns ofiF
the road to Combloa about ^ a
jcule from Meg^ve.]

^Prom Megeve the road to Ugine

^L^acends the valley of the Arly in

2 hrs. to Flvmeti a little town of

XJpper Faucigny, containing about

XOOO Inhab., near the confluence of the

Jiflon and the Arly. On a rock are

-fclie ruins of a castle, in which the first

laaron of Faucigny resided.

Beyond Flumet the road is only
practicable for mules : it is exces-
sively hilly and wild. The valley of
the Arly is a gorge, deeply seated,
and bears the name of the Combe of
Savoie. In 2 hrs. from Flumet it leads
to Heri (^Irm : Entree des Voyageurs),
\ a village beautifully situated, sur-
rounded by high mountains covered
with pine rorests.

Below Heri, the path, in many
places cut out in the mountain side,
overhangs the deep bed of the Arly,
and alternate spots of savageness and
beauty are found throughout this val-
ley. Its richness in walnut-trees is
celebrated, and the oil which the nuts
furnish is an important article of
commerce. 2 hrs. farther is

Ugme {Irms: Balances; Grande
Maison), a large ill-built town, con-
taining 3000 Inhab., famous for
its fairs of cattle and mules. To the
N., on a steep limestone rock, there
are the remains of the Castle attacked
in the 9th century by the Saracens,
and destroyed in the 13th century
by Humbert, first dauphin of Vienne.
It is situated on the rt. bank of the
Arly, on the road between Annecy
and Aignebelle (Bte. 152V

From Ugine an excellent carriage
road continues for If league down the
Arly to Albertville, through a deep
and rich valley. On the other side of
the Arly is seen the valley of Beau-
fort, where the Doron, which flows
through it, fflJls into the Arly.

[A hilly and rough road leads in
12 m. from Albertville, ascending
the course of the Doron into the wild
and secluded Valley of Beaufort to St

Maxime de Beaufort, its chief town,
situated at the junction of 5 valleys,
accessible only by mountain -paths and
surmounted by cols more or less diffi-
cult, averaging 6500 ft. in height: they
are the Y als — de Haute Luce, traversed
by the Dorinet N.E. ; la Gite,£. by the
Doron; fontcelamot, S. by the Ar-
gentine ; Trecols and Roselein from
the S.£. The chief passes are — ^La
Batia S.W. into Val d'Isfere ; 2. The
Louse and Grand Cormet (fine view) on
the S. into the Isere en Tarentaise ;
3. On the N.E. Col de Fenetre and
Col Joly lead to Chamouni by the
Val de Mont-Joie ; 4. E. La Platte,
or Col de Biollay from La Gite to the
Yal de Chapiu.

Between the Doron and Dorinet
rise the Bocks of JSnclaves — a curious

franite gproup arranged round an oval
asin, so shut in by a granitic ridge
that the waters from it are discharged
only through subterranean channels,
or over numerous fine falls into the
valley of La Gite, the finest of all in
scenery. In the centre of the basin
stand the chd,lets of Putray. The Inn
kept by Henri Mai^tin at St. Maxime
is the best in the district.]

Albertville (a name given, 1835, in
compliment to the late king of Sar-
dinia, Charles Albert ;) previously
called UHopital, (^Inns: H. des Ba-
lances, pretty good; Etoile du Nord).
L'Hopital, with its wide streets and
clean appearance, is one of the nicest
little towns in Savoy; it has about
1500 Inhab., and lymg in the high
road, by which communication is held
with Ugine, Annecy, and Sallenches,
with Chambery, and with Moutiers
Tarentaise, it has, since the establish-
ment of good roads, been increas-
ing in importance. Diligences by
Faverges to Annecy — to Moutiers
and Chamousset Stat, on Rly. to
Chambery.

On the other side of the Arly,
about ^ m. from Albertville, rise the
crumblmg and ivy-clad ramparts of
the town of

Conflans, with about 1300 Inhab.
It was formerly defended by 2 very
strong forts. It resisted the troops of

432

BOXJTB 151.*-GENEVA TO CHAMB^BT.

Seot. IL

Francis L in the w«t> of 1536* when it
was partly burnt, and its two forts
dbmoiisbelGL It has one or t#o enri*
oni old buildings; a glorions view
from its Promenade, 20 min. walk,
oyer the valley of the Is^re (which
receiyes the Arly a little below), to-
wards the Grande Chartreuse moun-
tains. On the banks of the river is a
smelting-house, Ibnderie Royale, where
the silver, from the ore raised in some
min&s in the neighbourhood, is re-
duced.

ROUTE 161.

GENEVA TO OHAMB^feT, BY AtX LE8
BAINS. (RAILWAY.)

£ng. m.

Calez ...... 43

Aix les BaiBB ... 54
Ghamb6i7 .... 64

FnMU Geneva to Culoz Stat see
Bte. 53.

At Culoa Stat, the Lyons and
Geneva line of rly. is left, and the
Vietor Emmanuel line taken* The
seeond-class carriages are very in-
ferior on this line» After leaving
Culoz the Bhone is crossed by a fine
iron^girder bridge; the rly. then tra-
verses some marshy meadow^, and
enters a tunnel, from which it sud-
denly emerges oh the shore of the
lake of Bourget.

The views over the lake and the
opposite range of the Dent du Chat,
seei^ by th^ passebgeiTs whose seats
are on tl^e rtrhand side jgoing to

fihdysitustea castle of OhatlUoii is
seen cm the 1»^ And the rljr. cOtfttdnues
close to the liJce, save where it p&sses
by a short tunnel through somie pro«
jeeting point

By a short branch line ttix^ning'
away from the lake, it reaches Aix
les Bains Stat

Aix les Bairn (Itms: H. ImpeTial,
the best; vety good; capital cuisine;
H. Venat, near the Stat; charge 11
fr. a**day for bed, breakfast, and table-
d'hote ; Poste ; H. du Fare; H. Ouil-
lard. There are humelrous boarding'-
houses and lodgings. Maison Aie
Bomain is a good pension;

This watering-place, situated a,t 8
little distance to ite E. of the pretty
Lac du Bourget, and containing^ 4O00
Inhab., was known to the £>inans
under the name of Aquse Gratiaofls^
and it is still resorted to on aeoount
of its mineral springs, and of the
attrabtions of the beautiful ooolitrT'
round it, by mote than 3000 Yiaitors
yearly, many of them from Lyons,
and coming more for amusement than,
for the baus.

Its Minerai Bjpringt are wanA and
sulphureous ; they have a temperature
varying between 100*^ and 117° I'ahr.
The Alwn Spring (incorrectly so Called,
as it contains no alum) issues £r^m
beneath an antique atch; it is partly
employed in douching horses. The
Sviiphtir Spring is exceedingly copious;
it is drunk at the source, and is good
for correcting derangement of the
digestive organs. These waters^ how-
ever, are cHeflj enmlojred for baths,
and above all for douche baths. A
handsome bath-hbuse has been built
by a former king of Sardinia, into
the apartments of which the hot wa-
ter is introduced in streams^ which
desetod from a height of 8 or 10 ft
Upon the patient After undergoing
the douemng proeess, which consists
in having the water appUed to Various
parts of the body« while they are at
the same time subjected to brisk fric-
tion by the hands of two attendants,
the patient is Irrapped upi dripping
wet, m a blamkett canned home in s

eedan^'Ql^Mi^, m^ put i^to ^ Wurm b^

• iSrSavoyi. ROUTE 161.— aix. lac du bourget.

433

^ 'knisk perspiration succeeds. The
b^}>earance of the baths is not tempt«
ag^. FhyatdOM — ^Dr. Despine, M.
^'.A.'vat, who understands English, and
If. l^rde Dardel, are well spoken of.
[Mkefe id a regular code of laws as to
like baths^ ftc.; and every oonoeivahle
complaint is curable by one or other
o€ tlkd springs.

Sails are gi^en twice a week during
tlie season in the room at the CasSnOf
'^r^ere there is also a reading-room.
l&Skg, Ch. Service at the fi. de Ville
on Sttiuiays.

There are several very interesting

Btrntetn Remains, a TriumpfMl Arch, in

debased Doric style, probably of the

3rd or 4Ui centuries, raised by T.

Pomp^lis Campabus) a portion of an

Ionic Tmnph if Diana, of which the

oella is quite perfect $ it can be best

examined from the gaitlen of the cur^,

upon which it abuts. Other portions

or Soman buildings are incorporated

in the remains of the Chdteau of the

Kat^uises of Aix, a building of the

16th ceAtnry^ The Bomati Baths are

entef^d from Madame Ohabert's gar"

den. The pri&cipiJ portion visible is

axk hypodaust. The drch is a most

perfect piece of oonstruotion, well

worth the architeet*s consideration.

The caverns of St. Paul (tickets,
50 c) are cttriotts, and contain huge
stidactites.

\^Brrmch Bailway from Aix to An»
neoy (Rtd. 162) in 1^ hr. by Albens,
Rumilly, then up the valley of the
^r to Marcellas and Itovagny.]

Excursions. — There are numberless
rides and walks in the neighbourhood,
whose varied and beantiftil scenery
caflnot fail to a£BE>rd pleasure and
amusement*

a. To the WAt^all of Grezy, in
a picturesque ravine about 3 m. from
AJx The watercourse is covered
over by vines on trellisses, and the
water falls among rocks surmounted
with craay old sawing mills. There
is flo danger in the place, vet a
French lady was drowned here before
the face of the !E;mpress Hortense in
I8\d. Not fbt from the waterfW are
the ruins of m old Oftstle,

h. Saute Combe^ on the opposite olr
N.W« shore of the Lioic du Bourget
(Borghetto). Boat to Haute Combe,
8 fr., may be sent round to meet the
traveller at Bordeau. This monastery,
beautifully situated dose to the lake,
and at the foot of the Mont du Chat,
was founded in 1225. Its Gothic
chapels were the bnrial*plaoes of
the princes of Savoy, canonfei of
Citeaux« &c. Ainong them are Boni-
face archbishop of Canterbury, son of
Count Thomas of Savoy, who died in
1270; Amadeus V., VI., and VH.;
Jeanne de Montfort and her husband;
Peter of Savoy; Anne of Zahringen,
&c. The original convent, erected
1743, was pillaged and desecrated at
the French rev(uution ; in the ch. the
coffins were opened and rifled, and the
monuments, paintings, and stained
glass destroyed. It Was, however,
entirely rebuilt in a peculiar bad florid
Gothic sfyle about the year 1824 by
Charles Felix, king 6f Sardinia, and
contains many monuments, all how-
ever either modem or so restored as
not to leave much of the original.
The convent is once more occupied
by Cistercian monks.

Near Haute Combe id a tower called
PTiare de Gessens, the view from which
is described by Bousseau. About ^ m .
beyond the abbey is ah intermittent
spring, called Fontaine des Merveilles,

The Lac du Bourget is full of fish,
and forms a great addition to the
charms of Aix.

The W. shore of the lake consists
of a tall precipice of limestone, rising
almost perpendicularly from the wa-
ter's edge, and extending froni Haute
Combe to the castle of &rd6au.

[For those who eigoy mountain
ascents, an interesting excursion may
be made from Aix to the summit or
lower slopes of the Dent du Chat, the
highest p(Hnt in the range of lime-
stone mountains forming the W.
boundary of the lake. The coach-
road from Aix to Lyons passes over
the shoulder of the mountain and de-
scends to Bordeau, frotn Whence it fol«
lows the shore of the lake to Bourget,
about 7 in« from Chamb^r)^, ^ fa^i

434

ROOTE 161. — ^MONT DU GHAT.

Sect. IL

shorter course is to cross the lake
from Aix to Bordeau. From thence
the high road to Lyons hy Yenne
ascends the side of the mountain,
winding along steep slopes which
command admirable -views over the
lake, till it attains the pass of the
Mont du Chat. This is one of the
most ancient passages from France
into Italy. It was probably the most
ft'equented route until the construction
of the road by Les Echelles (Bte. 153).

On the summit of the pass there is
a level, about 300 yds. across. The
road passes on the southern side of a
large mass of rock which is upon it.
The summit of the pass is covered
with stones, rocks, and brushwood.
A temple formerly stood here, of
which the foundations may be traced,
and many of the stones around made
part of the building. The stones have
been well cut, and the cornices of
many are yet tolerably perfect. An
inscription found here has given rise
to the idea that the temple was
dedicated to Mercury, Or more pro-
bably to his Gallic equiTalent the
God Theut, who, like him, presided
over highways. The mountain was
called Mons Thuates, probably from
this temple.

The army under Hannibal here
encountered its first difficulties in
passing the Alps, haying to fight
the mountaineers, who kept watch
during the day only. After having
ascended the Rhone as £eur as Yienne,
he-led his army across the country of
the Allobroges, by Bourgoin, les
Abrets, and St Genix d'Aoste (Au-
gusta Allobrogum), now a village on
the 1. bank of the Guiers, nearly op-
posite to Yenne, thence, by Chevalu
(Leviscum), across the Mont du Chat
to Chambery (Lemincum).

The form and character of the
Mont du Chat agree entirely with
the account, by Polybius, of those
events which could only in such a
peculiar locality occur, trom Cham-
bery the armypassed to Montmeillan,
and up the Val Is^re to Conflans,
Moutiers, and^StJ^faurice, and crossed
into Italy by the Little St Bernard.

Even without ascending to the top of

the mountain, the view from the sl<
is very fine. Looking towards
the scene is one of the most feirtile
the world ; studded with villor^es
towns, and so extensive, that -vrhei
the distant mountains of TanT&re
not limit the horizon, it subsides intsi
indistinctness. Immediately beloinr, oa {
the same side, are the rich pastiuragei
of the western slopes of the Mont da
Chat Beyond these are the ' vailej
of the Bhone, and the lulls and pl&ins
which extend to the A in. To reack
the highest point of the Mont do
Chat, called La Dent du Chat, yon
descend to the high road to^virards
Yenne for ^ hr., then take a patli to
the 1., which leads in 20 min. to a
small Inn, From thence to the top
is a steep scramble of 1^ hr., or 3
hrs. from^rdeau. An inexperienced
mountaineer should take a guide.

From the summit, 5000 fb. above the
level of the sea, the view on the eastern
side is one of surpassing beauty. Jt
appears to overhang the lake of &>iir-
get, into whose deep blue waters it seems
only a leap. Beyond is the rich valley
of Chambery, extending from Albens
totheMontGrenier; the town of Aix
seems to be at your feet across the
lake : on the rt, the city of Cham-
bery lies like a model ; hundreds of
hamlets and villages speckle the beau-
tiful valley, which is bounded on the
opposite side by the rich slopes of the
Mont d'Azi, and the Dent de Nivolet;
far beyond are seen the mountains
which bound the Yal Is^re, and the
snowy summits of the Dauphiny Alps.]

At the S. extremity of the lake are
the ruins of the castle of Bourget, the
residence of the ancient counts of Sa-
voy, down to the time of Amedeus V.
or the Great, who was bom in it in 1 249.
He sent for the painter Giorgio di
Aquila, a pupil of Giotto, to deco-
rate its interior ; and some fragments
of fresco, now nearly efiPace^ in •
cabinet formed in the thickness of tbe
wall of one of the towers, are -pn-
bably a part of his work.

An agreeable way of visiting tlie
scenery of the lake is to take a boit
from Aix to Haute Combe, and then

c^- ^ Savoy, route 152. — geneva ix) aiguebelle.

485

i^To^d it to wait at the little Tillage of

3o3rdeaii, at the foot of the ascent to

^b^ Mont dn Chat; and after visiting

bli^ chapel and fountain, walk by

^^^r-eeable by-paths along the heights

^v-lklch skirt the W. side of the lake,

SLXkd descend by the great road from

trb.e Mont dn Chat. The boats, both

oxL this lake and on the lake of Annecy,

a.T'e far superior to those on the Swiss

oir Italian lakes. The men row well

e.Tid understand something of sailing,

' but their charges are high.

[Those who enter Switzerland by
Aix, and do not wish to go round by
Oeneva, may at once cross from An-
necy, now connected with Aix by
Ky. (see Bte. 152) to Bonneyille and
thence to St. Martin, and so on to
Chamouni. The road is excellent, but
there are no diligences or posting
arrangements beyond Annecy. A
voiturier will go from Annecy in one
day to Bonneville and St. Martin, so
as to allow ample time for reaching
Chamouni on the second day.]

From Aix the rly., after skirting
the S. comer of the lake, lies across
a plain of great fertility to

Chamb£kt Stat. (Rte. 153).

ROUTE 152. •

GENEVA BY ANNECY TO AIGUEBELLE,
ON THE HONT CENTS ROAD.

112 kil. s 70 Eng. m.

Kll. Eng. m.

Geneva. '

StJnllen ... 10 =

CrnselUes ... 16 =^

Annecy .... 17 —

Faverges ... 25 =

AlbertvUle ... 20 »

AigaebeUe . . . 24 , s=

Since the coinpletion of the rly.
from Geneva to Chambery, and from
thence to St. Jean de Maurienne, this
route is but little firequented. Those
who are not pressed for time, and who

wish to see some of the most beautifiil
part of Savoy, may still find this an
interesting route in going from Ge-
neva to the pass of Mont Cenis or
Little St. Bernard.

On leaving Geneva the road passes
through the Plain Palais, crosses the
Arve, and continues through Caronge
and the richly cultivated plain of the
Arve, until it rises to the village of

8L JulieUf on the frontier of Savoy,
The baggage is searched a little fur-
ther on. An extra horse is required
this stage.

The road ascends a long hiU to the
Mount Sion, a ridge which runs nearly
at right angles with the Mont Sal^ve.
From its height, more than 3300 ft.
above the level of the sea, the views
of the Lake of Geneva, the Jura, and
the deep valley of the Rhone flowing
into France, form a fine panorama. The
course of the road is generally high,
though it undulates until it rises to

Cruseilles, a little town of 1300 In-
hab., the ruins of an old castle, and a
dirty inn.

The road to Annecy from Cruseilles
crosses the stream of the Usses,
sunk in a deep defile, by the Shs-
pension bridge of La Caille, of iron-
wire, erected by the Sardinian govern-
ment to carry the road directly across
and on a level, and thus avoid the
lengthened d^toars of the old road,
which may be still seen winding down
the depths below. The length is 636
ft., ana height of the road above the
river is 656 ft. It is called the Pont
Charles Albert, and was opened in Sept.
1839. It is probably the loftiest sus-
pension bridge in the world. A toll
of 50 sous is paid for 2 horses, and
60 sous for a larger number.

It is a pleasing drive by the vil-
lages of Alonzier, Caval^ Pringy, and
Metz, through a hilly country, often

1>resenting fine points of view ; at
ength it crosses the Mont des Bomes,
and descends a hill side which over-
looks the plain and lake of Annecy, '
and the fine mountain scenery which
surrounds it. There is a singular
beauty in the views thus presented,
and a charm in- the approach to An-
necy which is likely to be long re-

43tf

EOUTE 162. — ^ANIJECY.

Beot. IL

mdmbered. At the Pont de Brogtij
the riyer ITier, which falls into the
Bhone at 6ei8«el, is croAsed, and in
half an hour the trayelier finds him-
self at

Aimecy* {Jim : H. de Geneve, dean;
excellent Macon wine. A fine cheese
is made in the mountains.) This in-
dustrious city of 900 Inhab. is situated
at the N. extlremitj of the Lake of
Annecy* which is discharged by canals
that einoss the streets. .

Annecy is a picturesque and clean
old town, the shops in many of its
streets are under arcades, and there is
an air of respectable antiqidty about
it— though tnis, the ancient capital
of the duchy of Ckneya, succeeded a
still older one. In the 12th century it
was known as AnMctacnm notnim, to
distinguish it from AwMoiaown vetus,
which formerly existed on the slopes of
the beautiful hill of Annecv-le^Tieux.
Numerous medals of the Boman em-
perors of the two first centuries of
the Christian era have been fottnd
here, and inscriptions, sepulchres,
urns, and fragments of statues, and of
a temple^ attest the presence of the
conquering people.

When the house of Genera became
extinct, Annecy passed to that of
Savoy. In 1412 it was totaUy burnt.
To assist in restoring the inhabitants
to their town, Amedeus YIIL» duke
of Baroy, gare Ihem many privileges,
and enabled thetn to establish flax-
spinning works, which have continued
to be its principal nianu&otur^*

The linen bleacheries established
in 1650, which have always sustained
a high reputation, are still flourishing.
Encouraged by Napoleon, the late
Baron Duport, of Turin, established
here the first cotton-works ; these
stall flourish.

Besides these, there are manufac-
tories of black glass, of sulphuric
aoid, of ixinted cottons, &Ck, and in
the neighbourhood a vein of lignite
is worked, at Entreverhe^ — and at the
village of Grans there are oil, com,
and railing mills on the Fietv

The ancient ChateaUf the residence
of the family of Geiierdis^Nemours, is
now a barrack — the old Bishop's palace

-^the OathtdrUly with its

In the modehi (7A. of St Frm^^&is

deposited the relics of St. !Exr«uu

de Sides, and the M^re (S^iiite)

GhantaL The translation o£

relics from the Cathedral wtt.s

in 1626> with great oer^bony*

'*The tender friendship thc^^ long
subsisted between St. Francis de Sales
and La M^re Chantal, has gi^vrea^ to
their memory and relics, with pious
Catholics, a degree of interest Bimilar
to that excit^ by the remaizis of
Abelard and Eloise.

<* St. Francis deSales was descended
from tiie noble family of de Sales in
Savoy; he was born in 1567* H&^yin^
devoted himself to the church, and
evinced great Zealand eloquence m
its defence, he was orcUbined prince
and bishop of G^ieva by Pope Ole-
ment \liL, for the popes assumcHi
Uie ri^ht to confer these titles long
after the Beformed religion had been
established at Geneva, Annecy beiog-
made a bishop's seat when the Grene-
vese expelled the chapter firom tideiir
city. St. Francis de Sales died a,t
Lyons in 1622, and was buried at
.Aimecy. His canonisation took place
in 1665: but befotp that event hu re-
mains were so highly Valued by the
inhabitants, that, when the city w^as
taken by the French in 1630, one of
the six articles of capitulation stipu-
lated that the body of the venersible
Francis de Sales should never be re-
moved from the city." — BaketceWs
Tour in the. Tafmtaise,

Hither fled Kousseau on escaping
from Geneva $ and many passives
of the Confessions relate to his re-
sidence at Annecy.

At the lower eictremity of the lake
there is a beautiful ^v^nue and prome-
nade, where fairs and public amuse-
ments are held. The views from it
of the mountain and the lake are fine.
Here a bronze statue has been erected
to Berihollet the chemist, a native of
Talloires on the E. side of the Lake
of Annecy, by his fellow-citi2eii&
There are many pleasant waUcs in itt
pretty neighbourhood; the only draw*
back being the swamps.

The level of the lake of Annecy is

• 4r Savoy, ROUTB 162.-— alby, albens. fa verges.

437

laout 1400 ft above that of the sea;

abounds in fiah — the lotte» ancl a

B^li peculiar to this lake> the vairon.

K^^atin^ is a favourite amusemebt at

^^3Bnecy» as there are boats on the

Eklse^ and a small steainert the gift of

]A^e CmfK iNapoleou IIL A pleasant

&^£jcilrsk>n niay be made by the lake to

C^lttibeaa Duing (see below) ; charge

^ fr., or 8 fr. to go ao.d return. In

skscending the lake^ an opening in the

lofty mountains, which bound its N.£.

side, discloses thiB Chateau of Menthon^

on the delicious slopes of a recei^:

Kere St. Bernard^ the ** Apostle of the

.Aips," was born, and the plaoe of his

nativity, independent of its local

beauty, cannot fail to interest the

traveUerw

If the traveller have time, a short
esenrsion may be madie &om Annecy
to Annecy •le-Vieux J wher(B» on the
iuner and. & angle of the tower, a
Roman inscription will be found.

The establishment at Grans^ of the

hydraulic machines for the drainage

<Jt the lake, is also deserving of a visit.

[From Annecy there is an excellent

road to Bonneville on the way to

ChamounL From this road, or by

Menthon over the mountains, the

vallsy of Thoiies may be visited ;

very unfrequented by strangers, but

full of beautiful scenery.]

[From Annecy to Aix the Bly.
(I hr.) passes through a rich and
pleasiojj country^ amidst cottages and
trelltsed vines, to
Bowgny Stat,

[The Rly. leaves on one side
j4%, a village of 800 Inhab.,
situated on the Gheroui and one of
ih» most remarkable objtscts between
Annecy and Aix the fine stone
laidge~-a single arch of grdat h^ht
and span, thrown across the Gheron.
This village was mote important for-
merly when the Gomtes of Geneva
soiToiinded it ydth a wall and cabUes,
of which some tratids exist, which
wtt^ built on both sides of the river
to deftod the passage of the valley*]
MtxrceUae l^at iU the valley Of tne
Fier,

RumiUy Stat.

Mbens Stat., a village of 1000 Inhab.
Beyond Albens the road overlooks the
plain of AiX) where that town» the lake
of Bourget, and the basin of Ghambery,
bounded by the Mont du Ghat, the
Mont d'Aei, the Mont Grenier, pre-
sent a scene of singular beau^*

Armecy Stat."}

A good road carried along the S. W.
shores of the lake of Annecy leads to
Faverges. About two-thirds of the
distance is the Chateau Duing, placed
on a neck of land which runs out
into the lake. Here many strangers
come to board and lodge during the
summer, and enjoy the most delight-
ful excursions in its deUcious neigh-
bourhood.

Opposite the Ghateau Duing is
Talloires, the birthplace of the che-
mist Berthollet.

From the Ghateau Buing, the road
to Faverges continues up the valley
of £au Morte about 3 m*; it is so
nearly level that the plain of the
valley is often inundateiL

Faverges (^Inn: Foste, good) has a
population of about 2000. It is beau-
tifully situated amidst wooded slopes
and mountains; it is well cultivated,
and abounds in rich meadows. It
was known in the 12th century as
Fabriearium» a name arising from its
numerous fdrges for copper and iron.
It still possesses silk*millS) manu-
factories of cutlery^ and tanneries ;
and since the completion of the road
by Ugine into the Tarentaise it is
daibr improving. Its old castle is
finely situated.

A slight elevation divides the head
of the valley of the £au Morte from
that of the stream of Monthoux,
which runs into the Arly at Ugine.
(Btew 150.) The valley of Monthoux
is richly wooded and pioturesque.
A good road from Faverges to Albert- ,
viUe (FHopital) along the plain, avoids
the cUrty town and hiU or Ugine.

AlhertoUle (see Itte» 150).

Those who wish to travel by the
rly., eitiier to St* Jean de Maurionne
or to Ghambery^ will follow the dili-
gence route from this plaae to

438

ROUTE 153. — LYONS TO CHAMB^^BY.

Sect

Chamousset Stat. ; but if they travel
by road to Lanslebourg and the Mont
(jenis, they wUl turn to the L near
the junction of the Is^re with the
Arc, and a few miles further reach
Aiguebelle Stat,, on the rly . from Cham-
bery to Turin, about 20 m. from St.
Jean de Maurienne, and 28 from St.
Michel.

ROUTE 153.

LYONS TO CHAMB^BT, BY LE3
ECHELLES, OB AIGUEBELLETTE.

The shortest route from Lyons to
Chamb6ry is by rly. The line from
Lyons to Grenera (Bte. 53) is taken
as far as the Cnloz junc stat. From
Culoz to Chamb^ry the route is de-
scribed Bte. 151. A far more inte-
resting course may be taken by
either of the following routes. Tak-
ing the rly. from Lyons to Gre-
noble as far as Voiron, from which
place an extremely interesting expe-
dition may be made to the monastery
of the Grande Chartreuse (See Hand-
book FOB Fbance), the traveller will
return to the village of St. Laurent
du Font, a few miles distant from the
torrent of the Guiers Vif, which, be-
fore the recent annexation of Savoy,
formed the frontier of France. This
torrent is crossed at the village of

Les Echelles, The valley beyond this
is a complete cul-de^ac. A wall of
limestone, 800 ft. high, stretches
directly across it ; and from Les
ISchelles the eye in vain seeks for the
means of exit Li former days the
only road was a path, of the most
rugged and difficult kind, partly con-
ducted through a cavern by means of
ladders placed one above the other.
This was called^ the Chemin de la
Grotte, or Les Echelles, from which
the neighbouring village derived its
name. The difficulty of the passage
was increased at times by the moun-
tain torrent, which, when swollen, took
its course through the cavern. It was

utterly impassable for beasts : larav^
lers were sometimes carried tbroi
it, seated upon an arm-chair t
to the backs of stout Savo^ax^ _
sants, who performed the seirvice
beasts of burden, as the SoulJi.
rican Indians do at the present
on some of the passes of tne ^Ajadc

An improvea road was xn&de n]
1670, by Duke Charles Em&xiiiel II |
of Savoy, ^at considerable costy "hy re-
moving vast masses of rock, so ii
to render it passable for cajrriages.
Napoleon, however, struck out sl new
line, and boldly pierced throixg-h the
mountain, forming a tunnel lOOO ft.
long, 25 ft. high, and 25 ft. wide, along
which two diligences fully loaded may
pass abreast. A pompous inscription,
written. by the Abb^ St. Real, com-
memorating the enterprise of Cliarles
Emanuel in forming nis road — "wluch,
though steep and narrow, and very in-
convenient, was a grand undertaking'
for the period — ^may still be seen on
the face of the rock.

Our route is now carried througli
a wilderness of rocks, which gradnafly
expand into a pretty valley.

St, Thibaud de .Couz.

Not fiEur from this a little waterfall
descends from the cliff on the rt., de-
scribed by Bousseau, in his usual
strain of exaggeration, as ** lia plus
belle que je vis de ma vie."

Another contracted ravine mnst be
passed to reach Chamb^ry (see below).

Another route for pedestrians, also
interesting, may be taken either from
Voiron or direct from Lyons to Pont
Beauvoisin, formerly the frontier vil-
lage on the hish road from France'to
Italy by the Mont Cenis.

About 1^ m. from Pont Beauooism
the high road to Les Echelles is left:
and at the village of Domessin a nar-
row road turns off to the L, and leads
over a low hill well wooded, and
thence through a remarkably rieb
plain, that extends to those limestov
precipices which are a continuatioo
of the ridge of rocks that make »
formidable a barrier at Les £chdfes.
Avoiding the principal road to La
Bridoire, and crossing the plain direct

ft?*' ^ Savoy.

ROUTE 163. — ^AiaUEBELLETTE.

439

r-oxn near Pont Beauvoisin, the path

^biruptly approaches these precipices.

JXose to their base a zigzag path, very

_>, leads up the talus lormed dur-

man v ages by the debris ; in some

ces tne path is so narrow that the

W'&U of the precipice can be touched

\y^ one hand, whilst the other over-

liskngs the steep descent below : in

some places two persons cannot pass

each other. A litUe time is gained by

-tl&is short cut, and the situations are

striking, but it is scarcely worth the

fatigue. It leads to the same hamlet,

Sridoire, which is highly picturesque

in its situation, its cottages, and its

-w^ter-miUs. From this place the road

ascends, crosses a ridge, and enters

upon the basin of the lake of Aigue-

bellette, a rich open yalley, finely

-w^ooded, and where a yiew of the lake

is obtained ; — the whole scene is

beautifiiL

The road undulates amidst the
magnificent walnut-trees which a-
bound here, and passes through the
yillage of Lepin, offering some yery
fine yiews. There is a singular
character of tranquillity and retire-
ment in ihe spot : the scenery re-
sembles that of the most beautiful of
our Cumberland lakes; but the yisit
of a trayeller is so rare an occurrence,
that instead of a crowd of visitors,
and a season for visiting, a year may
pass away without any other stranger
bein^ seen than a little negooicmt
making a shorter cut to Chambery
than by the great road to Les
fehelles.

A ridge divides the village of Lepin
from that of Aiguebellette ; at the
extremity of the ridge on the left,
overhanging the lake, is a chateau, in
a most romantic and beautifiQ situa-
tion; ihe road on the other side of
the ridge descends to Aiguebellette,
and passes the ruins of the castle of
its barons: it is of high antiquity; its
foandation is unknown, and it is there-
fore attributed to the Romans: it is
recorded to have been repaired in the
11th century. It was burnt and de-
molished by one of the dauphins of
Yienne, in the 15th century.

Aigwibellette is a poor little village,

in a most beautifal situation; it has
a miserable little inn, which cannot
furnish even decent wine and refresh-
ment in a country so abundant — ^not
even fish from the lake: these are
taken and sent to distant markets.
The lake is celebrated for the excel-
lence and abundance of its carp,
trout, and other fish. The lake is
about 3 m. long, and 2 wide ; its
depth varies, but it is generally about
150 fb. deep. Around the lake are
fields and meadows, but most of the
slopes of the surrounding mountains
are wooded. Oats, barley, potatoes,
Indian com, and flax are grown in
the spots cultivated.

It is curious that a tradition exists
here that Hannibal passed with a part
of the Carthaginian army by Aigue-
bellette.

On proceeding from Aiguebellette
the path skirts the churchyard, and
enters a line of meadows beneath
magnificent walnut trees. Soon, how-
ever, it begins to ascend the mountain
side, and rises over the intervening
trees, presenting views of the lake,
the villages around it, and the distant
hiUs which slope down and border the
Rhone. The road now becomes very
steep, ascending in zigzaes, some-
times sunk in the crues of uie moun-
tain, at others rounding the projec-
tions, and increasing, as the observer
rises above the mke, the beauty
with the extent of the view. At
length, after a fatiguing ascent for an
hour, the summit is attained, and a

florious view is presented over the
asin of Chambery, similar, but not
equal, to that from the Mont du Chat.
Instead of looking down into the
lake, it is seen, at its nearest point,
about 8 m. off, resting at the base of
the steep Mont du Chat; and opposite
to it are the houses of Aix.

Chambery seems, from the pass,
to be just below the observer ;
and, in the road to it from Les
l^helles, which m&j be seen, the cas-
cade of Couz is distinctly observed;
its bright white line formin? a very
small speck amidst the exten£d scale
of the surrounding objects. The
descent from the summit of the

440

EOUTE 153.-K)HAMBiRY.

Sectn

eol may be made by two routes :
that on the right seems to have been
the (M Boman road, but it ia now
impraotioable for horses. There are
traces of its having been a well-oon*
stmcted road, in iiSe remains of high
and very thidc dry walls, which sup*
ported, towards the plain, its terraees.
Albanis de Beaumont says that, after
half an hour's descent by this road,
there are many stone comns found at
the foot of the lateral rocks, with
slabs which formerly covered them,
upon which some characters are seen,
though they are too much efiiM)ed to
be readt blocks, too, of cut stone are
found, and he conjectures that they
are the ruins of a chapel dedicated to
St. Michel, which was attached to
an hospital t^at existed here in the
9th century, and, probably, under
some other denomination, eveQ in the
time of the Bomans.

The road at present used from the
summit of the Col d'Aiguebellette to
Chambery ,is only praotioabie fbr
pedestrians or cattle: it might easily
be rendered fit for the passa^ of
chars; but, as there is httle mter*
course across it, there is no sufficient
motive fbr its improvement.

The first village reached after ab
hour's descent is Vwiine, ingeniously
conjectured by Beaumont to be de*
rived from Via Minima, because it
lay on the shortest route from Le*
mincum (Chambery) to Vienna Al-
lobrogum (Yienne, on the Khone).
In going to or from Chambery by
tills route, instead of that by Les
Schelles, the pedestrian will gain
2 hrs. } the whole distance from JPont
Beauvoisin requiring about 8 hrs.

"pTom the vjllsge of Yimine to the
hamlet of Cognkii is a short hour's
walk over a bad road, but through
beautiful scenes: thence, in half an
hour, the traveller will reach

Chambery (ItaL Ciamberi) (Inns:
H. de France, near the rly.stat., pretty

rd and reasonable; leFetit Paris;
de I'Eurcpe; Foste, bad), once
capital of oavoy, now chef lien
du D^pt. and an arehbishop's see,
containing about 20,000 Inhab«, and
pleasantly situated within a circle of

mountains. The streets
picturesque, and have an. sur i
activity, filthough the populdrtion n
mains stationary, and the -feo-vm em
tains little to interest the ^raveUd
A peculiar sUk gauze is made lierv.

The Cathedral, a Gothic biillcliiq
( 14tk century, finished 14S0), GixriooaJ^
painted in imitation of Hxe stem
tracery of the 15th century, is neithei
large nor interesting.

By flights of sloped terraoes ytm
may ascend to the CastU of the
Dukes of Savoy, an ancient fragnienti
presenting a Yery pieturesqoe and
miposinff appearance. It was burnt in
1798, omy 3 of the towers, the ehape]^
and the part next the town escapii^.
The chapel (b. 1415) is in the style of
the Sainte Chapelle at Paris, and has
some beautifdl lancet windovrs of
painted glasa The interior is painted
in imitation of Flamboyant traoery.
One side of the castle^yard is occupied
by a singularly ugly modem baOdmA',
within which are the very fimpto
apartments fbrmerly occupied oy
the Sardinian Boyal Family mow
residence of the Prdfet. ' The easile^
gardens, and -terraces command ^mt
views of the surrounding monntainB.

Before the Ftench revolution there
were 20 convents in Chambery: there
are still seven, foor of which aire nun-
neries.

Among the n^ostoonspicuoas'bnild-
ings at present are the modem Pftlaii
de Justice, H. de YiUe (1864), and
Three Barraehs.

There is a Public Library contain*
ing 13,000 volumes, an incipient mu-
seum, and a few pictures, none of
them calculated to afibrd the stranger
much gratification ; there is also s
Theatre and a Boyal Ctdlege.

St Beal, author of the * Conjuratioo
contre Yenise,' was bom at Cham-
bery, 1639 ; and the Comte Xavier k
Maistre, author of the * Yoyage aih
tour de ma Chambre,' is also a native
This town boasts among her Gitizesi
General de Boigne, who» having madt
an immense fortune in the Esstli*
dies, in the service of the Bajah Scii"
dia, bestowed the greater portion of it,
to the amount of «^,417,850 fr,, in b^e-

^'- ^ Savoy. ROUTE 154. — chahb£rt to tubin. mont cenis. 441

ons to his natiye place. He founded
iio8pitals» and set on foot many
Eftpirovementfl. A street ha« been
■LDci.ed after him, and a monument^ coin-
bstdx^ of a fountain ornamented with
i^Yures of elephants, has been erected
x> Yk-is memory on the Promenade on
1*1.© -way to the rly. He died 1830.

On a rook rising on rt. bank of the

Xieysse, a Boman site, stands the CK

of Xtdmme, the oldest in the district.

In the crypt is the body of an Irish

\>isliop.

^lK>ut 20 minutes' walk to the south
of the town is Les Oiarmettes, the re-
sidence of Eousseau and of his £nend
Madame de Warens. There is no^
thing in the place at present worth
notice independently of its connection
Mrith J. Jacques: the house has the
appearance of a poor farm-house, and
Rousseaa's room was the one oyer the
entrance.

Those who have time on their

hands, and desire an agreeable two

hours' walk, may visit the rayine

called Le Bout du Monde, The road

to it turns out of that to Turin at the

end of the Faubourg de Montmeillan,

follows the left bank of the Leysse by

the side of the great dyke, as far as

the Tillage of Ley sse, where it crosses

the stream, and, passing on the right

the picturesque castle of Ghafigu^don,

enten the gorge of the Doriat, which

is closed in on all sides by high cliffii,

forming the base of tiie JDent de Ni-

Tolet, and has no outlet Behind a

paper-miU, built by one of the Mont-

gomers, the stream faUs Id a pretty

cascade over the wall of rock here

formed of remarkable regular and

thin horizontal strata, through some

of which the water forcing its way

forms singular supplemental^ jets at

a distance from the main faJL

[A pleasant excursion of a day or
two may be made from Chambery to
the batns of Aix, and the Lac du
Boui^t (Bte. 161.)]

The Victor EmcmelJRailroad, to Turin
by the Cenis, is open (Bto. 154){ also
those to Geneya, Lyons, Macon, apd
Paris. Diligences to Grenoble by
Montm^an in 6 hrs.

HOUTB 164.

CHAMBERY TO TURIN — MONT CQBNI8.

kil. mllM.
Chamb^iy (railway). (Rte 161.)

Montm^ian 15 as 9

•Aigaebelle 37 s S3

8t. Jeaa de Maurienne '. . , 70 as 43
St Jeao to St. Michel . . . 13 = 8

St. Michel to Hodan (railway)
Modane to Yerpey ....
Yemey to Lanaleboorg . .
Lanslebourg to Grande Croix
Grande Croix to Molaret . .
MolarettoSosa ....

It
11
12
13
14
10

lOi

Snsa to Turin (railway)

54 = 34

Total . 314 13af

The Itly. to St. Michel takes from
2 ' to 3 hrs. Diligence about 10 hrs.
from St. Michel to Susa. Susa Kly.
to Turin, 2 hrs. Total, about 16 hrs.,
including stoppages. The ^gences
are usually so arranged as to cross
the pass during^ the night : those,
therefore, who wish to see it wHl take
a voiturier or post from St. Michel to
Susa in 2 days. The trayelliug is
very good, but expensive. Yoiturier
about 200 fr., postmg 300 fr., all ren-
forts and tolls included. The best;
voiturier is Borgo, who has excellent
carriages, and performs the journey
in 1 0 hrs. His office is at the H. de
la Posto, The Inns on the road are
dear, bad, and dirty ; St. MicheVs are
the best.

The Mont Cenis road may be con-
sidered as beginning at Cfhambery
and ending at Susa. It was c^on-
structed by the Chevalier Fabbroni,
under the orders of Napoleon, at a
cost of 300,000/., and was com-
menced in 1803 and finished in 1810.
It is oiie of the safest and most prac-
ticable of the roads over the Alps
during the winter, but is at the same

442

ROUTE 154. — PASS OF MONT CENIS.

Sect.IL

time the least interesting. The valley
of the Arc, however, is in some places
pretty, and in others wild and grand,
and there is a fine view from the 17th
Refuge, and beautiful ones on the
descent into Italy.

Now that the Rly. from Paris to
St Michel has been completed, this
road has become by £ur the easiest
mode of crossing the Alps into Italy.

Chamb^ (Rte. 153).

The scenery in the valley above
Chambiry is very fine. We pass,
on the left, the castle of Batie, and
farther on, close to the road, that
of Chignin, links of a line of forts
extending through the country, on
whose towers watch-fires were lighted
to alarm the inhabitants in time of
war, in case of foreign inroads. For
these rude means in the middle ages,
telegraphs have been substituted. Up
the valleys of the Arc and Is^re, the
chain of old castles continues almost
without an interruption. The moun-
tain seen on the rt. is the Mont Gre-
nier, 5700 ft high. The side facing
Chambery is a perpendicular escarp-
ment, produced by an immense mass
of the mountain having broken off in
1248 : it overwhelmed the country
at its base with ruin, and buried 16
vjllages. The marks of this catas-
trophe are still visible in the series
of nillocks, now covered with vine-
yards, called Les Abymes de Myans.
The Mont Grenier stands in the angle
between the valley of Chambery and
that of Gresivauiian, which leads to
Grenoble : it is traversed by the
Isfere. On the L bank of the nver, a
few miles down, stand the ruins of
the Chateau Bayard^ the cradle of the
illustrious knight *' sans peur et sans re-
proche." (See Handbook of France.)
Route de Grenoble Stat. Here the
Railroad to Grenoble branches off, fol-
lowing the vaUey of the Is^re, which
opens to the S.

Mcwtmilian Stat (^Inn: H. des Voy-
ageurs, not good.) This little town
stands not far from the rt bank of the
Is^re, at the junction of four roads :
that of the Mont Cenis, issuing out of

the valley of the Maurienne; that fro^
the Tarentaise and Little St Bemaa
(Rte. 156); that from Grenoble aioJ
the beautiful valley of Gresivaudan]
and that from Chambery. The castlf
of Montmelian was long a bulwail
of Savoy against France. Henry IV^
while besieging it in 1600, was nearlj
killed by a cannon-shot from its w^alls,
which covered him with dirt^ and
made the king cross himself devoutly;
upon which Sully remarked, that he
was happy to see that his Majesty
was so good a Catholic. It was
bravely and skilfully defended for I'o
months against Louis XHL by Count
Geoffrey Benso de Cavour, an ancestor
of the g^eat modem statesman of that
name. The works were finally de-
molished by Louis XIY., who took the
place in 1705. A few scanty frag-
ments of wall, crowning the rock aboTC
the town, are the only remains of the
former bulwark of Savoy, and the key
of its Alps.

A gooa white wine is grown near
Montmelian.

Public conveyances to the Baths of
Alevard, near which are some iron-
mines.

The railroad for some miles from
Montmelian commands, in clear
weather, a fine view of Mont
Blanc. The post-road folloiivs the
rt. bank of the Is^re ; the rly. the
opposite one, on an embankment of
several miles, having crossed the river
on a fine bridge beyond MontmeliaD.
Near the rly. on the L bank is the
village of Coise, with a mineral spring
containing iodine, renowned as a
specific against goitre. Beyond this,
on the rt. bank, is

St, Pierre d*Albigny, a neat little
town with a good inn. The Isere here-
abouts is enclosed by high embank-
ments. The slopes around Montmelian
and St Pierre are celebrated for the
wine the^ produce. An omnibus to
the St. Pierre Stat on the rly.

A little beyond St Pierre is a fine
feature in the scenery of the vallef;
the C/idteau de Miolam. It is bni
on a mass of rock jutting out of^
mountain side 800 or 900 ft above tke
Is^re, commanding extensive views v^

^-C&d^ ^ Savoy, kte. 154. — St. jeabt. TtJNiiEL Through i*fiE alji>s. 443

de Poste, very fair; Buffet at the
station).

Diligences await the express trains
from Paris for Susa, a journey of
10 hrs. Families will do well to hire
a carriage here. Bor^o, at the Poste,
is a respectable vetturmo, and has the
best carriages.

The road now crosses the river and
enters a wild and beautiful gorge.
About 9 m. above St. Michel, near
to the town of Modane, is the com-
mencement of the great Tunnel
through the- Alps, begun 1857 by the
government of Turin. This g^eat
enterprise will carry a tunnel 7^ m.
(12,200 metres =13,472 yards) long,
without a vertical shaft for ven-
tilation, to come out near Bar-
doneche on the Italian side. It is
4360 ft. above the sea, and 3480 ft.
below the summit of Mont Cenis.
Up to July last 7150 metres have
been cut, and 5050 remain. It is ex-
pected the whole will be completed
early in 1870. The rock is cut
by machines worked by compressed
air, invented by MM. Gratone and
Sommellier. They are each of
250-horse power, and act simulta-
neously on both sides of the mountain.
The air is compressed by water-power;
and the works above Modane, with
the tubes conveying the compressed
air, are on an immense scale. The
machines easily penetrate the rock,
not by drilling, but on the same prin-
ciple that rocks are bored for blasting
— that is to say, by the blows of a
chisel that turns slightly on its axis
between every blow. After the rock
has been bored with many hole&
simultaneously, the machine is with-
drawn, and the holes charged with
powder and blasted. Thence the
cavity is enlarged, and walled and
arched in the usual way. The same
compressed air that works the ma-
chines affords powerful ventilation to
the tunnel. It also cools it by
the heat necessarily absorbed during
its escape from compression. It'
is commonly spoken of as a Tun-
nel under the Mont CeniSf but im-
properly so, as it lies about 16 m. from
that pass. Nearly 2650 yards have

down the valley, and across into
:;lio valley of the Arc; for it is nearly
[>p^osite to the confluence of the Arc
%xkcL the Is^re. Ascent gradual to the
pla«tfonn, which on the top of the rock
13 extensive enough for the castle.

1?he chateau originally belonged to

one of the most ancient famihes in

Sa.voy, disting^shed as early as the

niiith cent; but the male line becoming

extinct in 1 523, the chateau was bought

V>y Charles III., duke of Savoy, and

converted into a state prison, which

continued to be its appropriation until

ihe events of the French revolution

united Savoy to France, when the

castle was dismantled.

3 m. farther on the L bank is

Chamousset Stat, Diligences daily
to Albertville, Moutiers, and St.
Maurice. Here the rly. and high
road leave the valley of the Isere,
and enter that of the Maurienne.
About 6 m. up the valley is

Aiguebelle Stat,, in a tolerably wide
triangular plain. (/»ns ; Poste, Par-
faite Union.) The country here-
abouts is unhealthy from marshes
which produce malaria. The Castle
above the town, called La Charbon-
niere, was the birthplace of several
counts of Savoy.

St, Jean de Maurienne Stat. ; the town
about 1^ m. on right (Inns: Europe,
Poste, Voyageurs, all indifferent),
capital of the province of Mau-
rienne (3000 Inhab.), 1800 ft above
the sea, the original seat of the Bukes
or Counts of Savoy. The cathedral is
of the 15th cent., and contains some
good wood-carving and a stone reli-
quary. The town contains nothing
else worthy of notice. The vineyards
around grow a wine of some repute.
From hence there is a pass to Moutiers
(Rte. 156) bv the Col de la Platiere
in 10 hrs. A mule may be taken to
the top. In the descent through the
Vol de Nant'brun there is a very fine
view of Mont Blanc. For the passes
into X>auphin^, see Rte. 158.

The rly. continues along the Arc,
here a very rapid stream, as far as

St. Michel Stat. {Inns: H. de la 'Sa-
maritaine, at the stat., clean beds ; H.

tlOUTE 154. — tmnsTEL MEOtJGH Tfifi AL1»S.

SectH

been opened on each side, nearly one-
fifth of the whole length, ^hree
passes lead from Modane across
the chain separating Savoy from
it^iedmont. The shortest and most
direct, but rough track, fit only for
pedestrians, is oy the Col de Frejusy
leading in about 5^ hrs. to Bar-
donlche. This passes very nearly
over the part of the chain which is
traversed by the tunnel. Somewhat
farther W. is the much easier pass of
the Col de la i?OM^, frequently traversed
with mules by the country people,
and leading in 6^ hrs. to Bardon^che.
Farther still towards the W. is a
rather higher and rougher path, but
practicable for mules, by the Col de la
Saume, For travellers going direct to
Bardon^che this has no advantage,
but it leads by a very easy ^ass — the
Echelles de Ptanpinet — to lBrian9on in
Dauphin^ (Rte. 159). From the
summit of the Col de la Saume a
mountaineer will easily reach in 3
hrs. the summit of the Mcrd Thabor,
10,536 ft. in height, commanding a
magnificent panoramic view of the
western Alps. On the top is a stone
pyramid marking one of the stations
used 40 years ago in the measure-
ment of an arc of parallel by the
Sardinian engineers. The descent
may be made to Modane, to St. Michel
by Valmeinier, or to Bardondche.]
Between St Michel and Modane is
laid the last scene of Sterne's *■ Senti-
mental Journey.'
Modane. {Inn : Lion d*Or.)
The road ascends high above the
Arc, and the gorge, in whose depths
it flows, serves as a natural and
tremendous fosse to Fort rEsseUlon
or Bramans, bmlt on the opposite
height, and commanding veitn its
many-mouthed batteries, rising tier
above tier, the passage towards Italy.
This fort presents a magnificent ap-
pearance or impregnability; but under
the treaty for the annexation of Savoy
to France, it is to be razed. A light
bridge, spanning the black gorge
which separates the fort from the
road, is a striking object: it is called
the Font du Diabie.

Verney, Near this, Horace Walpole

lost his lap-dog, which was carri<
off by a wolf pouncing down upon
from the forest.

At Termignon the path frcun the Col
de la Yanoise (Kte. 157) joins our road.
On leaving here the road and rly.
are carried up a very steep ascent.

Lanslehourg (^Tnn : Hotel XCoyal), a
wretched village, full of cabarets, at
the foot of the ascent of Mont Cenis,
4400 ft. above the level of the sea.
From this point numerous excursions
among the High Alps may be made,
and, indifferent as the inn is, it seems
excellent after those found among the
mountains. Here in the winter the
passengers by diligence are transferred
to others on sledges, and carriages are
put on traineaux to cross the snow.
14 men are often required, and 12
mules, to convey the diligence across.
The diligences from Susa stop at Lans-
lehourg for an early breakfast.

After passing a large barrack, the
road crosses the Arc, and ascends
the mountain by easy and well-con-
structed zigzags. Extra horses are
necessary to reach the summit ; and it
wiU take about 2-} hrs. for a carriage
to mount from Lanslehourg to Befbge
No. 18, at the top of the ascent. It
is possible to walk up in a shorter
time, abridging the zigzags, and follow-
ing a path to which the traveller is
guided by the poles for the electric
telegraph.

Between Lanslehourg and Susa
there are 23 houses of Kefuge placed
at intervals by the roadside, occupied
by cantoniers. Each is numbered, be-
ginning from the Italiaii side of the
mountain. Near No. 22 avalanches
sometimes fall; the dangerous spot
may be passed in 3 or 4 minutes. No.
18 is called La Kamasse. Here sledges
are kept; and in winter, w^hen deep
snow covers the inequalities on the
sides of the mountain, travellers may
descend in one of them to Lansle-
hourg in 10 minutes! The slede;e is
guided by a peasant, who places him-
self in n*ont ; and, from the expe-
rience gained in collecting (ramasser)
and transporting wood in this man-
ner, they are so skilful, that there is
little or ho risk in this extraordinary

Pied^' 4' Savoy, route 154. — railway over mont cenis.

445

mode of travelling. Perpendicular
descent 600 mdtres— 1950 ft.

The 17th Befuee is the barrier of
Savoy: here a toU is levied, to keep
the road in repair. Soon after the
highest point of the pass is reached,
6825 ft. above the sea-level; thence
the road descends to the plain of Mont
Cenis, passing near the margin of a
small lake, which is generally frozen
daring 6 months of the year: it is
fiunedfbrits delicious trout : the fishery
bel<»ig8 to the monks of the Hospice.
Inns: Posthouse of the Mont Cenis
(Monte Cenisio); and the Old Post-
house, rough, but tolerable, good
headquarters for Alpine excursions.
Passing travellers may regale on the
excellent trout of the lake, and some-
times on ptarmigan, for which they
will, however, pay handsomely. [From
the posthouse the ascent of me Little
Mont Cenis TBte. 155) commences.J

About half a mile beyond the Post
is the Hospice, originally founded by
Charlemagne, who crossed the Mont
Cenis wiw an army in the 9th cen-
tury. The existing edifice, built by
Napoleon, is now occupied, half by a
corps of eensdarmes, the other half by
monks oi the Benedictine order, who
exerdsegratuitous hospitality towards
poor travellers. The house contains
two or three tolerable bed-rooms for
gaests of the higher class. Near the
Hospice is a loopholed wall, for the
defence of the pass.

The road is tolerably level to La
Grande Croix, a wretched Inn at the
lower extremity of the plain, with one
or two taverns occupied by carters
and muleteers; here the descent be-
gins. The road, as originally con-
strncted, wound along the sides of
the mountain; but, owing to its fear-
ful exposure to avalanches, this
portion has been abandoned, and a
new line descends by winding zig-
zags to the plain of St. Incolas,
OFer which it is carried ,on a
raised causeway, quite out of the
, reach of ava&nches, except be-
reen the 3rd and 4th Eefuges,
rhere they still sometimes fall in
prii^. A gallery cut in the rock
Lwhere the old road passed on rt., is

now abandoned : it exhibits a singular
scene of confusion, the roof having
partly fallen in. On issuing from
this* plain, a mao^nificent moimtain on
the 1, is seen — ^tne Rochemelon : on its
summit is the chapel of Notre Dame
des Neiges, which is visited on the
6th of August every year by a
great numTOr of pilgrims. Men,
women, and children ascend on the
day before, about three-quarters of
the distance, sleep out on the moun-
tain, and complete the ascent early
on the following morning, so as to
hear morning mass upon the summit!
Saussure has given an interesting
account of his ascent of this peak.
Very few travellers have visited it
since his time. The road now skirts
a dreary ravine, at the bottom of
which are seen the viUa^s of Fer-
riere and NovcUese, deserted in the
summer: the old mule-road passed
through them.

Molaret, the first Italian hamlet.
A footpath descends from the high
road a little below the posthouse,
much shortening the distance for
pedestrians bound for Susa. From
some of the turns in the zigzags
beyond this place fine views of the
valley of the Dora towards Turin are
obtained, but the sides of the moun-
tain are unusually barren. A gallery
is passed, built imder a torrent^ and
onr|r used when the main-road is dan-
gerous or destroyed by the torrent.
The descent is now contmuous by long
zigzags to Susa.

Railway from St. Michel to SusOy over
the Mont Cenis,

St. Michel to

KiL

£ng. m

Modane ....

. 11

— 10

Branums ...

. 27

= 10

Termignon . . .

. 35

= 17*

Lanslebourg . .

. 41

= 25i

31ont Cenis Hospice

. 68

= 36

St Martin . . .

. 69

« 42+

Susa

. 19

= 49

Trains in about 5 hrs. The line
following parallel to, in general occu-
pying a portion of the width of the
post-roai^ so that the description of

Y 2

446

ROUTE 155. — MOKT CENIS TO StTSA,

Sect. H

the one applies to the other as regards
scenery, &c.

This rly., Jost opened for passenger
traffic, is one of the most extra-
ordinary e£Forts of engineering sci-
ence in recent times. It has been
entirely executed by British engi-
neers and with English capital, and
affords a most safe and convenient
mode of crossing the central chain of
the Alps. It has been constructed
by Mr. Fell, on an entirely new prin-
ciple— the Central Bail one — ^first em-
ployed by him and Mr. Brassey on
the Cramford and High Fell line in
England. As in the greater part of
its extent the gradients are very
rapid — ^in some places as great as
1 in 13, and hence the necessity of
large traction-power, in addition to
the ordinary rails on which move the
perpendicular wheels — an additional
or central rail has been introduced,
on which act horizontal wheels, by
which the rolling power is greatly
augmented; whilst, aided by the
hi^er level of the rail, these hori-
zontal wheels afford the means of ap-
plying a well-arranged pressure, under
the control of the engine, producing all
the effects of a powerful brake-power
when necessary. The reports of very
celebrated engineers deputed by the
different Governments have reported
most favourably on the solidity and
safety of Mr. Fell's system — none
more so than Capt. Tyler, E.E., in his
report to the Board of Trade, who
says: " This scheme for crossing the
Mont Cenis is, in my opinion, not

only practicable with greater

speed, certainty, and convenience, but
also with greater safety than under
the present arrangements."

Tne line commences at St, Michel,
where that from Paris and Cham-
b^y terminates, and extends to
Susa, where the Italian rljs. com-
mence. Of the entire distance —
49 m. — the gradients on 36 are of
1 in 15 ; hence on this extent the
central rail system is indispensable.
Upon the remaining distance the
orainary mode of progression will
alone be necessary. The gauge is
narrower than on the ordinary nar-

row-gauge lines in England aod]
France.

Susa, (Irms: H.de France, the best,'
improved since it has passed, into new
hands; La Fosta; Hotel de Savoie.}
This town of 3500 Inhab., planted at
the point of junction of the roads ova
the Mont Gen^vre (Rte. 160) and th«
Mont Cenis, is chiefly remarkable on
account of its antiquity, having^ been
founded by a Boman colony in the
reign of Augustus, under the name
of Segusio. It appears, like most
Italian towns, to have decayed, but it
now seems reviving. There is a very
curious Romanesque church and clois-
ters, and a gateway adjoining^ the
church. There is also a Roman tri-
umphal arch, of the Corinthian order,
erected about 8 b.c., in honour of
Augustus. It is in a sadly-neg^lected
condition, and stands a little 'w&y out-
side the town, in what was formerly
the governor's garden. Susa and the
rest of the route to Turin are described
in the Handbook for North Italy.

The railway is now open from Susa
with trains tor Turin several times
a-day, performing the journey in less
than 2 hrs.

Turin Termimis. (Ifins: Hotel de
TEurope and Hotel Feder, the best,
both excellent; Hdtel de la Xiigurie,
near the Rlwy. Stat., good.) — ^Omni-
buses run to the different hotels on
the arrival of each train.

For Turin, see the Handbook foe
North Italy.

ROUTE 165.

mont cenis to susa, by the mttu
mont cenis and the <x)l w
clair£e.

Those who would make an excof-
sion by the Little Mont Cenis, a sin-
gularly wild route, instead of descend-

' 4" Savoy,

BOUTE 165. — LITTLE MONT CENIS.

447

3iig by the road or rail firom the
IHospice to Susa, may accomplish it in
^ hrs. Turin may be reached the
same day by a late train from Susa.

l^one but a practised mountaineer
should attempt this very interesting
xoute, as the path along the water-
conrse trayersing the face of the pre-
cipices above the Yal de Clairee is
not adapted for those who have weak
lieads. Take provisions. The post-
house of the Mont Cenis (Rte. 154)
is left by a path which descends di-
rectly to the lake, then, skirting its
upper border and across the meadows,
it soon ascends rapidly towards the
pasturages which lead to the chalets
of the Little Mont Cenis, which are
distant from the posthouse 2 hrs. The
mountain slopes around the plain of
the Mont Cenis offer some of me rich-
est pasturages in the Alps; those
ivhich lead to the Little Mont Cenis
are of great extent.

A very little way beyond the cha-
lets of the Little Mont Cenis the col
is attained, and the valley which de-
scends to Bramans, in the valley of
the Arc. and which lies at right angles
virith the path across the col, is seen
through a great part of its length.
On the opposite side of this valley
rises the peak of the Grand Yallon;
and a little on the left, from a deep
turn in the valley below, called the
Combe d'Ambin, rises one of the finest
peaks in this part of the Alps, the
Mont d'Ambin: on its summit is one
of the stations used in the trian-
gulation and measure of an arc of
Qie meridian across the great chain.
The entire crest of the Ambin is
covered with glaciers, and every crue
is traced by a white bed of snow
that rests within it. At the lower
extremity of the valley of Bramante
the mountains of the Yanoise close
the view.

To ascend this valley it is necessary
to mount from the col of the Little
Mont Cenis directly up some rocks,
and continue for a short time on that
side of the mountain; the path after-
wards descends among vast rocks
which strew this sterile-looking val-
ley; and, keeping always on the

right of the ravine below, which
forms the Combe d'Ambin, through
which a stream, like a thread of silver,
flows, the path ascends up a rugged
and broken course until it reaches the
chalets of Savines. Here thjere is a
little spot of meadow land, and some
scanty herbage on the slopes of the
valley. On the left, a rugged path
leads across from the posthouse on
the Cenis by some little lakes in the
mountains of Bard, to this valley,
above the chalets of Savines: it is
rather shorter, but more fatiguing,
than that by the Little Mont Cenis.
Wolves are not uncommon in the
forest of Bramante, lower down the
valley; the dogs kept at the chalets
of Savines are of great power, having
their necks armed with spiked col-
lars. The wolves here are proba-
bly thc^ successors of those ravenous
rascals that gobbled up Walpole's
poor little dog Toby, as his master
passed with the poet Gray at the
foot of this forest on his way into
Italy.

Above the meadows of Savines, the
path rises amidst rocks and stones, and
at length reaches a little lake in an
elevated plain, in which all seems de-
solate, solitary, and sterile. The black
precipices of the moimtain of Bard
on the left hand and those of the
Mont d'Ambin on the right, bound
its sides: from the Ambin glaciers
sweep down to the lake, and small
cataracts, from the melting of the ice
on either side, mark their courses by
light lines that stream down the preci-
pices, and make their dark masses still
blacker. Amidst this apparent ste-
rility thousands of gentianellas, ra-
nunculus glacialis, violets of the rich-
est fragrance, and a hundred other
Alpine flowers, grow and bloom un-
seen, in every swampy spot, and be-
tween the stones with which the plain
and col are covered.

This lake is filled by the meltings
of the glaciers of the Mont d'Ambin.
It is called the Lac Blanc, or Lao de
Savines: it is about 1 m. long. At
its upper extremity is a low ridge
certaimy not a hundred feet above the
level of the lake. This is a crest of tbo

448

ROUTB 155. — OOL DE CLAIBiE.

Sect. B.

great cham, the Col de Clairie, also
called Col da Clapier ; across it two
paths lie — that on the rt., by a wild
and difficult course, leads over the
Col de Tomlles to Salabertrand, in the
Val d'Exilles.

The route to Susa lies on the left :
by it the descent from the Col de
Clairee is down a steep and rocky
hollow, which terminates at the cross-
ing of a bright stream near a pas-
turage. This spot, where wine may
be cooled in the stream, is a delicious
place of rest. At the first moment
it is not easy to see how the descent
is to be effected. The traveller stands
upon a platform, seemingly sur-
rounded by precipitous rocks; and
there will be little disposition imme-
diately to seek a path, for from this
spot one of the most interesting views
in the Alps is presented. Imme-
diately below is the deep basin and
narrow valley of the Clairee, which
is almost always filled with vapour
that seems to boil as in a caldron;
when the clouds from it rise high
enough to catch the current of air,
they disperse.

Beyond this valley, the mountain
above Chaumont, in the Val d'Exilles,
bounds the view ; but, turning to-
wards the left, the Combe of Susa is
seen over the intervening mountains,
even to its termination in the plains
of Piedmont, stretching away to the
horizon far beyond the hill of the
Superga.

On the rt. are the steep rocks, which
must be climbed by those who would
go from the Col de Clairee to the Col
de Touilles. Though long and ex-
tremely steep, the descent will pre-
sent no real difficulty to a practised
cragsman ; but none other should
attempt it without a guide. In look-
ing back when the head of the Val de
Clairie has been reached, it is not easy
to trace the line of descent over rocks
that in places seem quite perpen-
dicular.

** The pass of the Clairee is, on
the Italian side, the steepest that I
have ever traversed. This was one of
the many difficult passes by which
the Yaudois, in 1687, ' under their

pastor and captain, Henri .Amand,
returned to their valleys. Thev liadi,
after entering Savoy, wandered \>y a
course rather difficult to trace, until
they had crossed the Col de Hon-
homme, whence they descended into
the Tarentaise, traversed the Mont
Iseran into the valley of the Arc ;
thence by the Mont Cenis, the Xrittle
Mont Cenis, and the Col de Clairee,
into the valley of the Clairee. Here
they encountered the troops of the
Grand Duke of Savoy, who prevented
their entry into the vaUey of SxiUes
by the Clairee, and they were com-
pelled to return and cross the Col de
Touilles, from which the southern
branch of the Clairee, called the Ci-
auri, flows. The account of th^
sufferings, before they cleared these
mountam passes, and so signally de-
feated their enemies at the bridge of
Salabertrand, forms a part of one of
the most interesting narratives erer
published ; it vras written by H^&ari
Amaud himself, their col<»iel and
pastor.*

"The recollection of their perilous
adventures," says the author of * Ex-
cursions in the Alps,' **was yividly
recalled whilst sitting on a spot which
they also had visited, resting ourselves
from a fatiguing descent which they
had encountered and in sight of the
savage mountain of Les Touilles, by
which they were compelled to retreat,
and encounter yet further dangers.
The few miserable huts neur us were
uninhabited, and neither afforded
shelter nor food. Continuing our
route, we kept close to the torrent,
from which a large stream was sepa-
rated for irrigation. By the side of
the channel of this stream we con-
tinued some way ; then the road sank
below it ; afterwards we ascended
rapidly by a steep path cut out at the
foot of precipices, which rose in un-
broken granaeur directly over us.

** Along the face of these rocks the

* It was translated by the late Hugh Dyk«
Acland, from a rare copy, under the title of
*The Glorious Becoivery by the Vaadois of
their Valleys.' The best account of tltt
Vaiidois is to be found in the works of the lat«
Rev. D, Gilly.

V«0^- Sf Savoy, route 156. — chamb^rt to lanslebourg. 449

;}&sfeaiiiel for the watercourse was cut ;
umd. tfaougii, at our greatest elevation
k'bo've the valley of Clairee, we were
M; least a thousand feet higher than
t][^e natural bed of the torrent, we
^rexre still below the head of the arti-
-ficial channel whence its waters flowed
ir&pidly towards us. It was difficult
^o beheve the fact before our eyes ;
and, as we looked back into the snort,
deep, narrow valley that we had leffc,
and whilst we saw the Glairee foam-
ing- down its course, the aqueduct
seemed to ascend steeply from the
valley. This water is led round the
brow of the mountain to irrigate the
meadows above Jaillon. From the
highest point of our ^ssage the view
up the valley of the Doire to ExiUes
was very fine ; and immediately after
passing this point, the Combe of Susa
opened to us from between the Roche
Melon and the Col de Fenetre, to the
plains beyond Turin. We soon fell
lAto the high road from the Mont
Cenis ; and about 7 o'clock reached the
Hotel de la Foste at

Suaa Station (Rte. 154)."
It is possible to follow the water-
course from the point where it diverges
from the Clairee, along the face of the
precipice, and joining the road of the
Mont Cenis 1 hr. above Susa, thereby
saving some time. A steady head is
necessary.

ROUTE 156.

CHAMBl^RT TO LANSLEBOURG, BY THE
TABENTAI8E — COL D*I8EBAN — COL DE
LA LEISSE.

Chambery to Lanslebourg, 122 m.

Eil. Eng. m.
CSiamb^iy.

MoatmeUan (Bail). 15 » 9

Chamousset „ . 13 = 8

Albertvllle ... 23 =s Hi

MouUera . . . 28 ';=» Hi

Alme .... 16 s: 10

Bonrg St Maurice . 14 « 8i

Ste. Fol » 2i

Tlgnes .3*

Laval U

Bonneval 4^

Ijaiisleboarg 4

Railway to Chamousset Stat. (Rte.

154), frond whence diligences run to
Moutiers in about 6 hrs.

The road crosses the Is^re close
to the station, and then goes up the
valley on the dvke whidi has been
formed to retam the river. The
mountains on each side slope upwards
gradually and irregularly, so as to
afford views of the higher villages
and pastures, and occasionally of the
summits. The road itself is verjr
straight, bare, level, and dusty, until
it reaches

Alberimlle (described in Rte. 150).

Here our road takes a sharp turn
to the S., following the course of the
Is^re, and entering the lovely district
distinguished as the Tarentaise, The
road hes on the rt. bank of the Isire,
through a succession of beautiful
scenes. The lower ranges of the
mountains are richly wooded, the
valley narrow, retired, and pastoral
in its character. The ruins of
Castles are often seen, on heights
that jut out on rocks in commanding
situations from the rich backgrounds
of (forest trees; and the to^ itself
winds through pleasant shades over-
hung by wamut or chestnut trees.

Immediately after leaving Albert-
vllle the river Arly is crossed, and
then the old town of Confians (see
Rte. 150) is seen on a rock to the 1.
The next village is La Batie (Ohli-
mu7rC)y with a ruined castle, and the
next of any importance is Roche-
Covins, which is about half-way be-
tween Conflans and Moutiers. About
10 miles from Conflans, near the
hamlet of Fetit CoBur (celebrated
amongst geologists for the mixture
of fossils of the coal measures and
lias in its rocks), there is a fine
cataract, which dashes down amidst
immense rocks, — a spot forming a
striking contrast to the general fer-
tility and repose of the valley. About
3 m. farther the valley opens into a
rich little plain, where the pretty vil-
lage of Aigueblanche is situated. Here
the road rises for some distance, in
order to avoid the deep gorge through
which the Is^re passes, and then
descends again to
Moutiers Tarentaise (Im: Couyonne,

450

ROUTE 156. — MOUTIEKS TARENTAISE. AIME.

Sect.fl.

improYed, good cuisine, civil landlord
— ^keeps carriage, but only 2-hor&e;
the innkeepers in the Tarentaise, and
in many other parts of Savoy, are well-
disposed to prey upon strangers) is situ-
ated on the confluence of the Isere and
theDoronorBozeL Inhab.2000. This
capital of the Tarentaise derives its
present name from an old monastery,
which was built in the 5th cent, at a
little distance from the ancient Darenr
tasia. The history of its church is
perfect from its first archbishopric in
420 to its last in 1793, a period of 1373
years. The city now contains an hos-
pital for the poor, which was founded
in the 10th century, and an EcoU des
Mines, with a laboratory for practical
examination of the productions of the
mines of Pesey.

The Salt-workSj now the disting^sh-
ing feature of Moutiers, produce nearly
1 500 tons of salt yearly, extracted from
three springs rising at the base of a
vast mass of limestone, in the deep
ravine of the Doron, about a, mile
above its junction with the Is^re.
They are warm, and the strongest
99° Fahrenheit. During the g^eat
earthquake of Lisbon, the salines of
Moutiers ceased to flow for 48 hours :
when the reflux took place the quan-
tity was increased, but the saline im-
pregnation was weaker. The brine
has scarcely half the strength of that
of sea- water; yet it is worked to some
profit by the simplicity of the process,
and the use of water as the motive
power for the pumps. There are 3
great evaporating-houses filled with
faggots of black-thorn. The water
from the springs is pumped to the top
of these, and {Qlowed to pass througn
perforated canals, slowly dropping
through the woodstacks and spread-
ing over the extensive surface of the
branches. By this process the sul-
phate of lime attaches itself to the
wood, and a large part of the watery
particles evaporate, so that the pro-
portion of salt after each operation is
nearly doubled. After passing through
3 sets of faggots the brine is passed
through a house of ropes, down which
rte brine tfickles,

When the brine has gone tliro
the 4 stages, and acquired itte s
of 20 per cent., it is conducted
boiling pans, and the salt is c:
Used in the usual manner.

By this system of evaporation by tlit
air, only one sixteenth of tlie fuel it
consumed which would be required for
evaporating the weak brine as it coma
from the springs. The fag^gots axf
changed once in 5 or 6 years: ther
acquire a coating of selenite 'wfaid^
when broken off, resembles tlie stems
and branches of encrinites. These
works belong to the gov^mmenty and
produce about 6000 quintals of sah
annually. The whole is readilr
shown for a small fee.

The diligence from Moutiers to
Bourg starts at 3*30 a.m^ and it is
not easy to get any other conveyanoa

The road, leaving the little basin of
Moutiers to ascend the Is^re, goes
through some thoroughly Swiss pas-
toral scenery, and then passes through
a gorge which opens ^t the village of
St. Marcel, The scenery around is
very fine and picturesque, but the
inhabitants present the filtky and
decrepit appearance which is too
common in these regions. The road,
which formerly passed on the left
bank of the Isdre, now rises high oo
the right bank, and is carried over a
neck of rock at a great height above
the torrent The view looking^ down
and back upon St Marcel irom the
rock is veiT fine. This road was
made by Victor Emanuel, Duke of
Savoy, in 1766.

The valley opens above this defile;
and inmiediately beyond it, below the
road, is seen tne village of Onfrofs
stiU preserving the name of the Cen-
trones, an Alpine people who inha-
bited this valley.

Avne (Axuma), one of the chief
towns of the Centrones, which, ac-
cording to inscriptions found there,
was called Forum Claudii before
the name of Axuma was given in
it. On a hill above it there are tkf
remains of Roman fortifications . w»
round towers of great antiquity, bot^
in the town and on the site of tke
iuioient fort, tvre still stunding, the

Vedl** ^ Savoy, route loG.— bour(J st. maurice. la tuille. 451

lasonry haying been strong enough
I hold tog^ether through so many
ges. On the lower side of the town
\ a very curious crypt of great anti-
quity, containing a Koman tomb or
iltar. Above it is the comparatively
oiodem ruined chapel of an ex-con-
rent, in the walls of which are stones
bearing Roman inscriptions, one in
honour of Trajan. From the crypt
it is said that the commencement of
a subterraneous passage was traced
for some distance. The village was
overwhelmed by a landslip in the 13th
cent., and it is not improbable that
the present crypt was previously on
the level of the ground. Below the
old convent are the remains of a
castle, which, though poor and bar-
barous enough, was the residence of
a powerfol family. It is related that
a member of this family, being de-
feated in a lawsuit, requested time
to produce further evidence in his
favour. Soon afterwards he caught
one of the judges, and sent his head
to the other judges, as the further
evidence. [About an hour's walk
• from Aime, on the mountains to the
^M are the lead-mines of MacofX

'Hie valley above Aime, though
fiiie, is not so picturesque as below ;
and the road, though still a diligence-
road, is not so good.

The vine grows as far as the vil-
^^of BeUentre, which is nearly op-
posite to the village and vaUey of
liMidri, that lead to the mines oiPesey,
which, with those of Macot, are the
J^ost celebrated in Savoy. They are
situated near the foot of the glacier
of the Mont Pourri, and more than
•^ ft above the level of the sea:
Jhe ore is a fine-grained sulphuret of
^^; it contains about 60 ounces of
suverperton. These mines in 1785
y}.elded annually about 4000 marks of
suver, and 40,000 quintals of lead :
they are now less productive. The
*^®^ht of the mines is a serious ob-
stacle to their being worked to great
advantage,

. Up the vaUey of Pesey a fine view
is obtained of the glaciers and snows
of the Mont Pourri, sometimes called
's.haffe-Qxiarre.

As the valley is ascended, the pass
of the Little St Bernard (Bte. 149)
opens to the observer a more obvious
course than that of the road up the
Isere, which turns again from St.
Maurice to the E. and S.S.E., and
continues in this direction to its source.

Bourg 8t. Maurice (Berigentrum).
Inn: H. des Voyageurs, tolerable.
(Rte. 149.)

Thus far up the Val Isere there is
a diligence road, but beyond St. Mau-
rice it is necessary, in order to explore
the valley upwards, to go on horseback
or on foot, until the road now in pro-
gress is complete. It requires one
day to go from Bourg St. Maurice to
La Yal, and another across the Col
d'Iseran to Lanslebourg and the Mont
Cenis. The Inn9 above this are bad
and extortionate.

From Bourg St. Maurice to Ste.
Foi (see Rte. 148), 3 hrs. The ap-
proach to Ste. Foi from the meadows
below it offers one of the most beau-
tiful scenes in the valleys of the Alps.
Having climbed the tortuous and diffi-
cult chaussee which leads to the village,
the route continues for a long way by
a wild and lofty path on the moun-
tain side, high above the torrent,
through the vnlage of

La Tuille de Ste. Foi, where a good
guide and sportsman, Fran9ois Ruet,
resides. He can accommodate two
or three travellers, and can furnish
trout from the Lac de Tis^es. The
Inns at La Tuille are bad, but Ruet is
honest and trustworthy. Bears and
chamois occur here.

[From La Tuille de Sainte Foi, or
Tignes, an interesting excursion may
be made to a peak called La Croix de
Femllette, one of the minor peaks of
the Ormelime, the hi^est point in the
range between the Col du Mont and
the Col du Clou. It commands a mag-
nificent view of the chain of Mont
Blanc, and of a great portion of the
Savoy Alps. It is possible on the
same day to ascend to the summit of
the Col duClou, a pass communicating
with the Val Grib..nche and Ivrogne
in the Val d'Aosta ^-^te. 148). The
scenery towards the summit of the
Col is wild and striking, but there is

T 3

452

ROUTE 156. — BREVIERES. TIGNES.

Sectl

no extensWe view. The desoeat into
the Yal Grisanche from the highest
point (which must be near 9000 ft.
above the sea) lies over steep slopes
of snow and debris. This woulabe
the most direct course from Lansle-
bourg to Aosta (see Bte. 148). The
path taken in returning from the
Col to La TuiUe is very interesting,
lying through varied and striking
scenery.]

The deep ravine is too narrow to
allow the path to run near to the
torrent. On the opposite side the
glaciers that stretch from the Chaffe-
Quarre along the crest of the moun-
tains, offer a scene of grandeur scarcely
to be surpassed in the Western Alps.
The finest view is, perhaps, opposite
the village of La (Are^ which seems
to be overhung by the glacier aboye
it. More than once this village has
been destroyed by the fall of ice
and rocks ; but the danger is defied
for the sake of the little land which
its terrace above the Is^re affords.
From the melting glaciers above, the
white lines of many falls seem to
stream down upon the village.

Soon after passing La Gure the
road ascends to a ridge, which being
crossed, the path leads steeply down
to the Isdre in the depth of the ravine.
Here overhanging rocks darken the
pass, and a. fragile bridge, in a wild
situation over a lateral stream, en-
ables the traveller to ascend the valley.
A little beyond this bridge the defile
opens into theplain and village of

Brederes, Here the Is^re is crossed,
and the path ascends on the other
side through a rugged pine forest,
where the path is carried very high
to avoid a ravine. In passing over
this ridge, there is one spot where a
cleft in Sie mountain side can be passed
only upon the trees, rocks, and stones,
which the peasants have jammed into
it, to form a path, which theroe de-
scending almost' to the river side, con-
tinues a short way only, before an-
other expansion of the valley forms a
little well-cultive cd plain, in which
Ues the chief -.iiiage ot the valley,—

Tignes{'*>^ hrs. from Ste. Poi). There
is a small ^nd dirty /»n, kept by

Florentin BeviaL The oliai>ges
very poor accommodation and
food are equal to those of a. re
hoteL The approach to it, iss
from the defile oelow, is very strik
The inhabitants are robust and in
pendent, and are great breeders
mules and cattle. This mountain
lage is beautiftdly situated, abo#
5500 ft. above the sea, at tlie foot d
the Aiguille de la Sassiere, the highest
point in the main chain of tlie Alps
between Mont Blanc and Monte Visa
The summit was reached by Mr. W.
Mathews in 1860, and is said to com-
mand a magnificent yiew of the
western portion of the Alpine chaia.
From Tignes there is a pass called
the Col de Rhemesy or Col de Goletta,
leading by the Yal de Khexnes to the
Yal d' Aosta. There are two passes
leading to Lanslebourg and the Mau-
rienne; the most frequented is that
by the Col dTseran. Another more
interesting, and rather shorter, but
higher and more laborious, is called
the Col de la Leisse,

[A rough bridle-road mounts &om
near the village of Tignes to the Lac
de Tignes. Thence, keeping to the
rt. of the lake, a faintly-marked path,
after skirting its shores for some dis-
tance, ascends towards the S. W., and
without much difficulty leads to the
wild nearly level tract of snow-fields
and debris which form the col (abost
9200 ft.)b Chamois are here firequeat
The descent lies through a wild and
dreary glen filled on either side b/
masses of d^ris, over which to th«
N. hangs a magnificent peak, called
La Gromde Motte. There is no path,
but it will be better to keep first to
the rt. side of the valley, then to cross
the stream over some of the snow-
bridges which subsist through the sum-
mer, returning again to the northern
side (though out of the direct course)
if the trayeller seek some rest and
reft^shment at Entre - denx - £aiix
6 hrs. from Tignes. Thence the rootf
to Lanslebourg lies over the plan di
Loup, as described Rte, 157. A pi^
is required for this route.]

In taking ihe route up the valley
of the Isere, here called F«/ df Tigtf^i

VW/'^ Savoy.

EOUTE 156.— OOL D'iSERAN.

453

KTOm Tignes to the Col d'Iseran, a
<ieep rug^ged path leads up the moun-
ain side, to pass another of those ra-
tines, which in this vallej so singu-
vsrlv alternate with the little plains.

This, the last, separates the plain
of Tignes from that of Laval. The
forest trees, firom their greater eleva-
tion, are more stunted, the rocks more
denuded, and the whole passage be-
tween the two villages is immatched
in savage wUdness. In the midst, a
fragile hridge crosses the torrent,
and soon after the traveller finds him-
self in the plain of Laval; where
barley is raised, and where irrigation
is so well managed, that there is an
appearance of luxuriant vegetation.
Lomal is Ij hr. above Tignes, and
is the highest church village in the
Val Isdre: it is surrounded by lofty
moimtains, which are crested with
anew and glaciers. At the head of
the valley, the Col de Galese can
easily be seen. (Bte. 147.)

A miserable hovel called an inn is the

only place of reception at Laoal, From

Tignes to Lansiebourg is a day's

journey of 9^ hrs. If, however, the

traveller intend to cross the Galese to

the Val d*Orca in Piedmont, he can-

'iot deep too near the glaciers, in

order to pass them at an early hour.

fATal should in this case be his rest-

"^ place. It is centrally placed in

J^joble country, and only wants a

^'^ iim. Besides the Col d'Iseran,

were are 3 passes leading from Laval.

I^Apath to the W., joimng that from

■Jgnes to the Col cie la Lelsse, near

the summit of the pass. 2. By the

Colde Rhdmes to Aosta, shorter but

higher than the Galese, and reputed

"»owhawrdous. This may be taken

** conyeniently from Tignes, with a

VMiation in the ascent 3. To Ceresol

Py the Col de Galese (Rte. 147).

Thfl two last are diflftcult.

To oross the Col ^Tseran (from La-
val to Bonneval Is a walk of 4J hrs.)
tiepath ascends gradually from the
yaUey, by a stunted pine forest There
fg a hamlet called Fomo, or Fom&l^
flirtbtif up the valley on the route to the
Galese, but this is avoided, and by the
*5nip the traveller arrives opposite to it

time the

he has attained a great elevation. The
path to the Col mounts in zigzags on
the L bank of the Is^re, and may
require a g^de for some distance,
as the course is confused by sheep-
tracks leading to different pasturages,
and the true path is only known by
bearings: the ascent is easy. Some
crosses mark the loss of life in these
solitudes; in one instance by murder,
in another a poor soldier was found
dead from cola and exhaustion. To-
wards the summit the track is well
marked by a line of stone pyramids,
each of which has a niche tnat would
afford some shelter in bad weather.
The soil produces myriads of flowers,
and of great variety. On looking back
upon the ridge of the great chain the
view is grand, but not so fine as from
the Col de Galese, and during the
descent on the othei* side. Here the
traveller looks over a thousand peaks,
whose black and scathed precipices
appear to spring out of the sea of
glaciers which extends from the Le-
vanna (Rte. 147) to the Boche Melon
(Rte. 154).

From we col, the course lies down
the denuded idopes to an elevated
pasturage, which narrows to a valley
terminating in a defile above deep
precipices, where a cataract falb
across the path. From this ravine
the descent is very rough and fa-
tiguing down to the plain below,
where the pasturages and chalets of
St Barthelemi, belonging to the in-
habitants of Bonneval, oner abundant
summer resources to the herds and
flocks of the proprietors.

From these pasturages the descent
is still steep and wearying. The
vaUey of the Arc is seen below, and on
the left, looking upto the head of the
valley, the glaciers of the Levanna
seem to fill it

The first village reached in the val-
ley of the Aro is

Bonneval: Inn (kept by Cukts, an
intelligent chasseur) is very mode-
rate and homely, as are all those in
the valley above Lanslebouig, distant
4 hrs, down the valley ^^c^^ ^ounevaL

[Three difficult g^cier pas&ps lead
from Bonneval intq Italy, 1, By

454 ROUTE 157. — MOUTIBRS TAKENTAISE TO LANSLEBOUBG. Sect.'

the Col de Carro to Ceresol, see Rte.
147. 2. By the Col de Girard, passing
inimediately S. of the summit of the
Levanna (which was reached by Mr.
Cowell in 1860), leads in 6 hrs. to
GroscavcUlo, and in 4^ hrs. farther to
I/anzo in Piedmont. 3. A longer
route lying for 3 hrs. oyer glacier, by
the Col de la Sea, in 9 hrs. to Gros-
cayallo.1

Nearly 2 hrs. below Bonneval is the
Tillage of Bessans (^Irm bad and ex-
tortionate), just before reaching which
a path turns off to the 1. up the valley
of Averole. [By the Vol cCAverole
several difficult passes lead into the
Piedmontese valleys of Ala and Viti.
1. The Col de Colarin, leading to Ala
in 6^ hrs ; from thence to Lanzo 3
hrs. 2. The Col d*Amaz, a very
ancient passage, with remains of a
paved track, now partly covered with
snow and ice, and some Boman in-
scriptions, leads in 9 hrs. from Bes-
sans to Viu, and from thence, by
char-road, in 2 hrs. to Lanzo. 3. A
longer but easier route by the Col
du Lautaretf sometimes traversed by
mules, leads to YiU in 12 hrs.]

At Bessans th^ Arc is again crossed,
and a high ridge is passed which
divides that commune from

Lans le Villard, a village about a
league above Lanslebourg. Its in-
habitants salt their donkeys for food
— a practice common in the Taren-
taise. From Lans le Yillard a path
leads into the great route of the
Mont Cenis. If the traveller have
started early, he may reach the post-
house on the mountain on the day of
his departure from LavaL

Lanslebourg (Kte. 154.)

ROUTE 157.

MOUTIEBS TARENTAISE TO LANSLE-
BOURG, BY THE COL DE LA VANQISE.

A char may be taken as far as Pla-
nay for this journey, but beyond, it is
necessary to take a horse, or proceed
on foot. This pass may be per-
formed in one long day, 10^ nrs. steady
walking without halts.

The road passes by the 8alina\
Moutiers (Bte. 156^, and ascending^
the rt. bank of tne Doron,
in a quarter of an hour the Bock<
Salins, situated opposite to the
fluence of the valley of Bozel, or
Doron, with that of BellevUle, Ai
ing the latter, there are two moantuiS
passes : one leads to St Jean Ma»-
rienne, the other to St Michel, bodi
in the valley of the Arc, either at
easy day*s journey.

The Ch&teau de Salins was an-
ciently the residence of the archbishop
of the Tarentaise. Its ruins are si-
tuated inunediately above the salt
springs^ in the valley below. These
are guarded with great care, to pre-
vent the people of the country stealing
any of the water, and making^ thdr
own salt!

Salins is conjectured to have been
the site of the ancient Darentasia.
The town was destroyed about the end
of the 14th century, by a fall frcun
the mountains on the W. This &11
of rocks and stones so filled the val-
ley that the lower town was buried
beneath the mass. All that remained
were the parts most elevated. Subse-
quent falls destroyed what remained
except the castle, and this has been
demolished. A few miserable houses,
rebuilt around the Salines, await a
similar fate from the threatening ap-
pearance of the rocks above.

The castle, however, remained long
after the destruction of the town in
the 14th century. Books still exist
which were printed by Maurice Mer-
million at the chateau very soon after
the discovery of printing. It is sup-
posed that the nrst press in Savoy
was established there, and that Mer-
million was the Caxton of the Ta-
rentaise.

Salins lies S. of Moutiers. Prom
the confluence, the road into the val-
ley of Bezel takes an easterly direc-
tion through a district rich in wood
and highly cultivated, where there
are many beautiful points of view.

Brida or La Perriere, \\ hr. froa
Moutiers. (Inns: Etablissement des
Bains, best, and good; 2 tables-dliite
daily, and a reading-room: there ire

^ A Savoy, route 157. — col de vanoise.

456

C;n::B.«r8.) This village and watering-
is resorted to in summer by
lids on account of its mineral
xngs. It affords by far the best
-quarters for a trayeller wishing
explore this part of Savoy. The
-fcera are so much impregnated with
.Tphuretted hydrogen as to be per-
tJy detestable to the taste. The
uperature of the water is, according
tio IJT. Socquet, 9^°.

The views are extremely fine, and
ttk& neighbourhood abouncfs in beau-
tiful walks; one of the pleasantest is
by a footpath through the wood, at a
considerable height above the S. bank
of the stream, towards Moutiers.

£*rom Brida carriage-roads lead
by eiUier bank of l£e Doron to
Sozelf 1^ hr's. walk. Between the
tyvo villages the country is rich
in cultivation : vines and fhiit-
trees in the valley, corn-fields and
-pasturages on the belts of the moun-
tains, and above, pine-forests, sur-
mounted by snows and glaciers, the
valley being closed at the head by the
mountains of Pesey, and, one of the
most beautiful in form in the Alps,
the Mont Pourri.

A short distance beyond Bozel the
valley forks. The main branch of
the Doron issues from the valley of
Praloenan, while the other less con-
siderable stream descends from the
Vol de Premou nearly due E. of Bozel.
Half an hour above the point where
the road turns S. to Pralognan is
(Jhampagny, at the opening of the Yal
de Premou. It takes about 5^ hrs.
steady walking to reach a sort of
plateau at the head of the valley, on
which are several small lakes, of
which that nearest the summit is
called I^ac de Cracalery. From this
point, by turning first N., and then
descendmg to the N.W., the traveller
I may reach the mines of Pesey (Rte.

- 156). The direct course to the rt.

, of the lake, a little N. of £., leads
by the Col de Palet to Tignes. The
, lateral valleys of the Doron abound
with beautind scenery, and most of
them lead to points of view in the
I mountains where some of the finest
Alpine scenes are presented, particu-

larly in the valley of Allues, and at
the chllets of Chatelet, near the Col
de Eorclaz, whence Mont Blanc can
be seen, and a vast extent of the peaks
of the great chain.

The road to Pralognan passes the
village of VUlard Goitreux, built at the
junction of the two branches of the
Doron. A char may be taken as
far as Plcmay ; but no time will be
saved, as the ascent by the road is
steep, and the old track keeping
nearer to the stream is more in-
teresting. On the rt. there is a
cataract, formed by the fall of the
Doron into the ^orge at Bellentre,
and the valley widens to the beautiful
meadows and calm retirement of the
vaUey of Pralognan.

Pralognan has two small Inns : that
of Mane Joseph Favre is probably
the best, kept by civil people, and not
very bad. As elsewhere in the ad-
joining valleys, there is much con-
fusion as to the names of the moun-
tains hereabouts. The name Aiguille
de la Vanoise appears in many works,
but does not appear to be known in
the country. The pass leading to
Lanslebourg is called Col de Vanoise,
and the tract of glacier south of that
pass is the Glacier de Vanoise. The
highest peak in this part of Savoy
lies N. of the Col de Vanoise, between
Pralognan and the Yal de Premou ;
it is called in the country the Grande
Casse, but is probably the point which
has been measured as the Aig^uiUe de
Vanoise. The height is at least 12,700
Eng. ft.

pVo passes lead from Pralognan
to the vaUey of the Arc, more direct,
but higher and more difficult, than
the Col de Vanoise. Both passes
are approached by following the val-
ley of the Doron to the chalets of
La Motte. A little above this the
valley divides ; the L-hand ravine leads
in 6 hrs. by the Col ^Aussois over
some considerable snow-fields to Aus-
sois, near to Fort Lesseillon (Rte. 154).
The scendry on both sides is very
fine, and near the last chalets on the
N. side there is a magnificent view of
Mont Blanc seen over all the inter-
mediate ranges. The pass which lies

456

BOUTE 168.^— OOL D'aBVES.

Sect.'

at the head of the rt.-haad or W.
branch of the Doron is the Col de
Chenriire, or ChavUre, leading directly
to Modane. It is probably a ver^
interesting pass, but information is

reuired.3

The ascent from Fralo^an to the
Col de Vanoise is yery wild and pic-
turesque. In about an hour a green
valley with a group of ch&lets, called
La Gli^re de Pralognan, is reached.
A sharp pinnacle of rock is seen in
the centre of the ridge in the direction
of the pass. It is possible to pass on
either side of this, bat the regular
track passes to the N. of it. The
ascent is rough, in part over moraine,
and the scenery wild and dreary.
From the summit there is a fine view
of the Grande Oasse, ascended for the
first time in 1860 by Mr. W. Mathews
with two guides. The track on both
sides of the col is marked by ]^les,
and in good weather a mountaineer
will scarcely require a guide. Near
the top are 3 little lakes, the source of
streams which descend on one side to
the Doron, and on the other to the
Arc. On the rieht, enormous glaciers
are seen, which extend to the Boche
Chevriere, the mountain which is seen
firom the ascent to the Mont Cenis,
oyer Termignon.

From the col, the descent towards
the ch&lets of Entrenieux-Eaux is
rapid. The long sterile valley above
these chlUets, wMch leads by the Col
de la Leisse to Tignes, in the Yal Is^re
(Bte. 156), is seen on the 1. After a
long descent the torrent is crossed,
but, instead of pursuing its course
through its deep ?orge to Termignon,
a path is followed which leads up on
the opposite mountain to the Plan du
Loupf a long pasturage, not so wild
or high, but about the breadth of the
Col de Vanoise. The scene, looking
back upon the valley of Entre-deux-
£aux and the Col de Vanoise, is very
sublime.

Qn the col of the Flan du Loup
(mother small lake is passed, then a
long descent commences, which leads
down to the hamlet of St. Marguerite.
Soon after the path enters apincf-forest,
through whioa a rough road leads

down to the valley above Temaii
into which there are some magf i
peeps. There is still, however, a h
ana fatiguii^ descent to make bei
that little town can be reached in
3 hrs. from Entre-deux-Eanx. Th<
is a path which, going from llie hi
let of St Marguerite, skirts the M<
Paroufia, behind Lanslebourg,
leads directly to the latter town; bo^
though shorter, it is even moie
fatiguine than the route to Termig^
non, and one which it is difficult to
pass with a laden mule. At Termig-
non the path from the Vanoise i&lJa
into the great route of the Cenis, which
in an hour takes the traveller to
Lanslebottrg (Rte. 154.)

ROUTE 158.

FROM ST. JEAN DE MAU&IENNE TO
BOURG D*0YSAN8,BYTHE COLD'AfirES
AND THE COL DU PRE NOUTEAU.

By starting very early firom St.
Jean it wouM be possible to reach
Bourg the same day; but as it
is a lone journey of 14 leagues,
it would be preferable to pass the
night at 8t. Jean d'Arves, a small
viSaee situated in the Yal d'Arvan,
which joins the valley of the Are
just above St Jean de Manrienne.
A steep mule-track leads from this
town to the villages of Fontcouverte
and Villarambert, where the traveller
turns to the left, and after a short
descent crosses a small tributary of
the Aryan, and then mounts some
steep grassy slopes to the Col d^Arees,
3^ hrs. from St Jean de Maurienne:
In another } hr. he descends to St
Jean d'Arves, where there is a rough
Inn, The Col d'Arves might be
avoided by following the course <^
the Aryan; but that stream make^ a
great detour between Fontcouverte
and St Jean d'Arves. The route
beyond leads nearly due B. over wide
and luxuriant pastures to the old
frontier between Savoy fuid Prance K
the point called the 60I dn Pri .Vip-
vtfOM, 7500 ft. above the sea^level, tad

^ Savoy. ROUTE 159. — (*benobIiE to BRIAN90N.

457

from St. Jean d'Arves. It

mL^JX descends through pastures, eyen

%.^>:we luxuriant than those of the

S-^iirienne, by the side of a tributary

f ^he Bomanche; and after mounting

^^ ridge on the L bank of this river,

»s down upon Besae, a ndserable

filthy village about 2J hrs. from

Col; and then passing through

'^isoins^ hits the great road a litde

'.a.lMsye Frenet^ which is 1^ hr. from

IBesse, and where there is tolerable

Acconmiodation. From Frenet to

^Bourg d'Oysans is a 2 hrs*. walk. If,

Iiowever, tne traveller be bound for

tlie Val Cristophe, it is better not to

go to Bourg, but proceed at once

from Frenet to Venos by the col of

th.e same name, a journey of about 3

hrs. Almost all the way from St

Jean de Maurienne to Venos the

mountains are composed of a black

argillaceous shale, which doubtless

-produces the luxuriant vegetation.

tVom the Col du Pr^ Nouveau another

route may be taken into Dauphine

leading straight to La Graye.

ROUTE 159.

GRENOBLE TO BRIAN9ON, BY BOUfiQ
d'oYSANS A2JD THE COL DE LAUTA-
RET,

114 kilom. = about 70 Eng. m.

Grenoble (Gratianopolis), the chief
city in the Dept. de Tlsere, an im-
portant place beautifully situated
(Pop. 32,800), is descrilled in the
Handbook fob France, Inns; H.
de I'Europe; Trois Dauphins. Jt is
here oply mentioned s^s the. starting
point for an excursion ai^ross the Col
d^ Lautaret to the pA^s of the Mont

Courier every night to Brian(;on
takes 4 or ^ passengers, Diligence
4uring th^ summer to Bourg in 5 or
6 hrs., whenpe to BrianguP tftkes 8 or
lO'hPSi Cgeveyfti^o^ yevy st^w. Gre-

noble to Susa 220 fr. Car from Bourg
to Brian9on, 8 or 10 hrs., a long ana
heayy day, 50 fr. The pedestrian may
walk from Bourg to Brian^on in
13 hrs., and the scenery will amply
repay him.

There is a good but very circuitous
roadfrom Grenoble by Vizille, Gap,and
Embrun to Brian9on, and a diligence

foes that way to the latter town daily
rom Grenoble; but it is 50 m. further,
and through a country that is gener
ally uninteresting, whilst that by the
Col de Lautaret abounds with some of
the finest scenes in the Alps.

To save this distance. Napoleon
commenced the construction of a new
road by this pass, and many magni-
ficent works were completed upon it,
but after his abdication it was aban-
doned, and has only of late years
been completed. The bridges were
destroyed by the floods in May, 1856.
The roaa to the Lautaret lies for
the most part through the valley of
the Bomanche. For some miles
from Grenoble it lies across a level
tract, through fine avenues to the
village of La Claix, where there is
a renuurkable bridge over the Drac.
The road to Yizille thence continues
up the banks of the Bomanche by
a course nearly level.

VizUle has about 2000 Inhab. Its
inns are wretched. It is considered
as the cradle of the first French revo-
lution, for here the parliament of
Dauphiny first made a declaration
fatal to the power of the Bourbons.
Here is the Chateau of ihe constable
Lesdigui^res. It had, since the revo-
lution, become the property of M.
Perier, the brother of the minister,
who had established cotton or flax
works here; but it was partly de-
stroyed by fire in 1825.

The road ascends by the right
bank of the Bomanche through a nar-
row, but beautifid and wefl-wooded
valley, which runs with nearly the
same wild character into the heart of
the mountains for 6 or 7 leagues. In
some places the valley widens enouglx
for the establishment of a vill^ig^ or a
hamlet: of these, Chiohilane, Gavet^
and I^a Clavet are the principc^l, Near

458

EOUTE 159. — BoaRG d'oysans. le dauphin. Sec-fc- 15

Gravet there are some iron-works.
The Combe de Gayet, a remarkable
ravine or Combe, which is also an
English, or rather Celtic name for a
deme, extends from the plain of
Yizille to the plain of the Bours"
d'Oysans, a fertile valley, surrounded
by lofty mountains. It is within
record that a large lake was formed
in the 11th century by the falling
of the neighbouring mountains at the
entrance of the Combe de Gavet:
this dammed the river, and the waters
accumulated in the plain above, and
formed a large lake, of which the
surface viras 3 leagues long, and 1
-wide, and its depth from 60 to 80 ft.
This lake existed for about 200 years.
At length, in September, 1229, it
burst its barrier, rushed into the
Combe of Gavet, swept away in
its fury everything that it touched,
rapidly passed into the Drac, and
hence into the Is^re, then, flowing
over the plain below the two rivers,
submersed a great part of Grenoble.
At the lower extremity of the plain
of Bourg d*Oysans, a path across the
mountains leads to the valley of Alle-
mont, where there are iron works, but
the readiest access to them is from
the valley of Gresivaudan, above
Grenoble. Very near Bourg d*Oy-
sans a gold-mine is still worked.

Bourg cTOysans (H. de Milan, in-
different) is situated on the 1. bank
of the river, and near the upper ex-
tremity of the plain. The vegetation
of its valley is remarkably rich; the
mountains that surround it exhibit
in some places extraordinary instances
of tortuous stratification. On ap-
proaching the Bourg, the Mont de
Ijens, streaming with glaciers, closes
the head of the valley, and divides
the torrent issuing from the dark
gorges of the Yen9on from that of the
Bomanche, which flows through the
Combe of MalvaL

By starting from this betimes an
active pedestrian may reach Brian9on
before dark; the road being good, and
nowhere steep, he wiU accomplish
more than 3 m. an hour. In 5 J hrs.
to La Grave. Thence to the Col de

Lautaret is 2^ hrs. walk, and 2|-
more down to Monestier, and 8 sli<
hrs. thence to Briangon. The dis-tanc
is easily accomplished in a cl
changing at La Grave.

^£0. interesting excursion m.a,y W
made from Bourg d'Oysans to Lfl
B^rarde, in the upper part of thl
valley of St. Christophe, about 8 brs*!
walk from the Bourg. (See Rte. 1 70.)J

A little beyond the Bourg-, the
road twice crosses the Bomanch^
and ascends by its left bank; then
quitting the plain, dives into the
Gorge du Freney, and passes the
first Tunnel. Mounting upwards,
again to descend to the level of the
^manche, we enter the Gorge of Le$
Infemets, One of the grandest scenes
on the road is in the vicinity of the
second Tunnel. Just above it, near
Freney, may be seen, though much
defaced, the gateway, cut in the rock,
through which passed the origmal
Roman road. The ancient road — ^for
this course from Brian9on to Grenoble
was known to the Ilomans — ^passed
much higher, by the village of Mont
Lens, 4200 ft above the level of
the sea.

Near the third gallery, the road
rises up through a valley filled with
rocks and blocks of enormous sue
that have fallen from the mountains
above, and which are interspersed
with a few trees and a scanty culti-
vation. In the midst of such a desert
lies the hamlet of

Le Dauphin^ 3) leagues from Bourg
d'Oysans : here refreshment mav be
had at the H. de T Assurance. Above
Le Dauphin, the savage and rockj
character of the vauey predomi-
nates; and the traveller enters the
Combe de Mahals a nearly straight
ravine of almost unequtJled wildneff*
bounded by the precipitous bases i \
mountains thousands of feet in heiglii
almost everywhere inaccessible, tho&t
of Mont de Lens on l^e rt. absolute!;
so, and crowned by fields of ice ancj
snow, which, owing to the height anr'
abruptness of the &file, can omy hei
and there be seen from below.

Numerous streams are crossed.

^ Sawnf. ROUTE 159. — villars. monkstier.

469

descend in falls from the gla-

'S that crest the precipices, and

dng over the steep talus formed

a. -fclie sides of the valley by the dis-

L-fc^^ration of the mountain, cross

hi.^ road, and add to the fury of the

^toxnanche. Not far from Le Dau-

^l&ixK, on the L, a magnificent cata-

rctcL gushes out from the top of the

preci]^ce, and falls in a large volume

mxitc» the valley below ; this is called

JS« Saut de la Fuceile, The universal

story of a peasant-girl leaping down

unlinrt, to escape the violence of a

cliasseur, is told of this fall.

So vast are some of the blocks that
strew the valley, that one among
others measures 50 paces in length,
and against several, stone huts and
chUlets are raised and sheltered ; for
though there appear to be little herb-
age here, what tnere is is rich enough
to induce those who have herds to
send them here to pasturage.

Stm farther up the vaUey, near a
fine cataract, on the L, are the lead-
mines of Les Freaux, belonging to
M. Marat de TOmbre, where many
workmen are employed to raise the
ore and smelt it. The adits are seen
high upon the precipitous sides of the
mountains, ana ropes and machinery
extend into the valley below ; these
mines are said to be worked to ad-
vantage.
' At the head of this savage valley

the road rises to the miseralue village
of La Grave (Inn: Juge's, best on
the road, though small, tolerable fiure
^ and beds).

The situation of La Grave is very

^ tine, directly opposite to the Mont

' de I^ens, the most northern peak

of the range of Mont Felvoux,

*" which present a scene of the most

striking grandeur. During the winter,

the cold precludes the burying of the

dead — the ground is too hiud ; the

bodies are therefore suspended in the

granges until the returning spring.

So wretchedly^ are the people off for

fuel, that dried cow-dung is chiefly

used.

On -leaving La Grave the road
descends to pass some rocks ; then
rising, it leads abruptly to a turn in

the valley that overlooks a very fine
fall of the Romanche, all its waters
being poured into a deep abyss. The
road passes 2 galleries nefore reach-
ing

Villars cTArhief a wretched village
(/nn, bad and dear) ; but the new line
avoids that village, and at once com-
mences the ascent of the Ool de Latt-
taret, crossing the mountain ridge that
divides the valley of the Bomanche
from that of Monestier or the Gui-
sanne. This pass rises to the height
of about 6700 feet above the level of
the sea; the col is covered with the
most beautiful pasturage, and is one
of the richest spots in the Dauphin^
Alps for the harvest of the botanist.

On the sunmiit, 2^ hrs. from
La Grave, there is a Maison ffoa-
pitaliery one of those founded by
Humbert IL in the 11th century;
this is kept by a peasant appointed to
the duty; but travellers are cautioned
not to trust to getting fed there, though
wine always, andbread and curds some-
times, may be found on the Lautaret.

The view from the col is very
limited. To the S.W. several of the
peaks of the Mont Pelvoux range are
seen bristling with rocks, and clothed
in glacier, ending, on the side of the
Bomanche, in the glacier of Tabuchet,
whence this river has its source; on
the other side, the river Guisanne is
seen tumbling down the valley of
Monestier.

From the summit of the col a very
steep road descends into the sterile
and miserable valley of the Guisanne,
to the first hamlet. La Madelaine;
still lower is the village of Casset, at
the base of the glacier of Lasoiale ;
and 2^ hrs. from Sie col are the

Baths of Monestier, 35 m. from Bourg
d'Oysans : here there are severid
inns, much frequented during the
season, of which the best, Chez Ar-
mand, affords very tolerable accom-
modation, superior to that of the
vidley of the Romanche.

The mineral waters here have a
temperature of 101°, and are both
dnuik and employed in baths: they
are so abunduit that they are
employed to turn a mill Below

460

ROUTE 160. — ^BRIAN^q^ TO SUSA.

Sect!

Monestier, the valley exhibits cul-
tivatioD; barley is grown, and the
meadows, by irrigations, are very
prodnctiye; and, uter the naked and
sterile route from Le Dauphin to
Monestier, the appearance of trees is
hailed as giving the highest charm to
the so^iery.

The whole course of the Guisanne
can be seen to Brian9on, where the
forts of this frontier town are visible,
piled above each other; beyond is a
chain of lofty mountains, over which
is seen the peak of the Monte Yiso;
this is a magnificent scene.

There are several villages in the
Val Monestier below the baths; the
principal are La Salle, Chantemerle,
so named from the number of black-
birds that frequent it; and St. Chaf-
frey. The approach to Brian9on is
strikingly fine, its walls and forts
rismg as they do to the highest, T/n^
femetj whicn is placed on a peak,
nearly 10,000 ft. above the level of the
sea; the broad rich valley of the
Durance below the town, and the
mountain boundaries to l^e valley,
make this one of the most picturesque
towns and scenes in the Alps.

Briangon, 3 hours' walk from Mo-
nestier. {Inn : rOurs, best ; — ^H. de
la Faix, very dirty.J This town is a
froBtier fortress, with gates and re-
gular defences, and every strong po-
sition is occupied with a fort or bat-
tery; it guards the frontier of France
by the pass of the Mont Gendvre and
the valley of the Durance. A diligence
goes daily to and from Embrun, and
a diligence to Susa.

It is a city of high antiquity. Pliny
attributed its foundation to the
Greeks, who were chased from the
borders of the lake of Como; others
have given its foundation to Bellove-
sus or Brennus. Ammianus Marcel-
linus calls it Yirgantia Castellum.
It held a Roman garrison. St. Am-
brose was here on his way to Vienne
in Dauphin^ when he heard of the
death of the Emperor Yalens, whom
he was going to baptize.

This Uttle city is one of the smallest
in France, having less than 3000 In-
hab. The streets are narrow and

steep, bat many of the houses
well built. It boasts o£ a G
Place : its church is not w^ortli a

The town itself is strong' from
position and mural defences, bnt
seven forts which guard it render
almost impregnable. Between
city and some of these forts the.
a bridge over the deep bed of
Durance, which foams beneath
precipices. The bridge is of bold
struction, a single arch of 130 £ng]
feet span, and 180 feet aboire the toi^
rent It was built in 1730, under dil
direction of the Marechal d' Asfeld.

See Handbook for France.

ROUTE 160.

BRIAN9ON TO SUSA, BY THE PASS OF
THE MONT GENfeVRE.

Diligence to Susa, but no post*
horses. Distance 13 leagues, about
35 m.

On leaving Brian9on "for tbe Mont
Gendvre> the valley of the Durance is
ascended by a narrow gorge for more
than' a league, as &r as La Vachette,
a Httle hamlet at the foot of tbe
Mont Gen^vre. Here, on the i
opens the VcU de NevEoache^ a fise,
large, and productive valley, a strik-
ing contrast to the valley of the Gd-
sanne. It is also called the Val des
Fres, from its rich meadows. Its
mountains are clothed with forests;
through it the river Clairee, springs
ing from the Glaciers of the Hoot
Tabor, flows. for 8 leagues, and tbf
loses its name in a less consident^
torrent — the Durance, which )l^
scarcely run 2 leagues from its sotf^
in the Mont Gendvre.

The ascent eoxnmences through &

9d^' 4rSavQ^.

ROUTE 160. — MONT GENltVRE.

461

ie forest^ and by a series of ad-
^ably constructed isiszags leads the
keller up to the ooT, and presents
kvQTj turn a variety in the yiews
iBrianQon and its forts, the valleys
I the Durance, and NeuTache, and
surrounding mountains . these so
relieve the tedium of ascent
the summit is attained before the
reller has any idea that he has ac-
|>hshed a distance of nearly 2
_ les. The old road continued by
Bm pine forests up the L bank of the
ItKam, and pedestrians still pusrue
^ as it is much the shortest to attain
the Col of the Mont Genivre.

The plain of the Mont Geneore is
remarkable for the culture of barley on
its Bammit, rather over 6000 ft. above
'the leTel o£ the sea, and there are fine
mtarages on the. slopes of the neigh-
Dpuring mountains. On the pkiin
thew is a village called the

Bovrg Mont Genewe, 3 leagues from
Bnan9on, which is inhabited all the
year. Here is the custom-house, a
troablesome place to those who enter
La helle France,

On the plain, and almost fix>m a
^junon source, two rivers rise — ^the
^Jorance, which flows into France and
^e Mediterranean, and the Dora-
Sunna or Dora Biparia, which flows
mto the Po and the Adriatic.

On the summit of the plain an
obelisk was erected to commemorate
the eongtruction, in 1807, of this fine
'OM oxer the Alps. It is 60 ft. high,
*^ had on its pedestal inscriptions to
'^^^ the event : these the ^urbons
remoTed,

On leaving the Col of the Mont
Jr^^^'e, the course of the river is
'ollowed for 2 lea&pies down a series
of tonmiqaets, made in the loose soil
OB tbe side of Mont Chaberton, until
"'e load reaches the bed of the river
^ crosses it about 2 m. from Oesanne ,
|J®w which village the torrent from
'he Ifont Gendvre falls into the larger
stresQi of the Bipa, descending from
^ lofty mountains that bound the
•*^te8tant Valleys of Piedmont

Cesarme, where there are two mi-
J^fable inns, is not more than 4
tours' good walk from Brian9on.

Below Cesanne, the course lies
down the valley to Susa. The first
importaut commune in the valley is

Oulx, 3 leagues, a laree village at
the entrance to the vaJley of Bar-
doneche, whence there are three
passes to Modane, in the valley of
the Arc: see Ete. 154. The tunnel
under the Alps now in course of
construction has one opening above
Bardon^che, a poor village 4255 ft.
above the sea-ieveL A colony of
workmen connected with the tunnel
has been planted here, and houses and
workshops built; but no good inn.
Pedestrians may cross to Modane
by the Col de Fr^jus, or Col de la
Boue.

From Oulx it is about 2 leagues
to Salabertrand, a place memorable
for the battle fou^t and won by
the Yaudois, under Henri Amaud,
on their return to their valleys,
after expatriation, in 1689, when
they were opposed by 2500 regular
entrenched troops, three times their
numbers, and commanded by the
Marquis de Larrey, who was wound-
ed in the action : every spot around
has interest in connection with that
event : the mountain by which they
had descended on the night of the
battle ; and that by the Col de Sen,
which they crossea to go into their
valleys after their victory.

Beyond Salabertrand the valley
narrows considerably, and forms, a
good league below, near the fort of
ExiUes, a deep defile; in the midst
(^ this the fort is placed, perfectly
commanding the valley; here the
river is crossed, and the road thence
continues on its rt. bank, beneath the
heights of Chaumont — a spot rendered
memorable by the fkte of the Comte
de Belleisle, who fell here on the 9th
of July, 1747 : his desperate valour,
which had been excited bv the pro-
mise of a B&ton de Marlchal of France
if he succeeded in forcing the pass,
was checked, after he had received
many severe wounds, by a coup dc
grace from a grenadier of the regi-
ment of Monferrat

At the village of JSxilles tolerable
accommodation and much civility will

462 ROUTE 161. — BRULN9ON TO P1GN15R0L. F^NESTBELLBS. S(

be found at the house of the post-
master.

The viUey, in and below the defile,
is richly wooded, and preserves nearly
the same character for 3 leagues, from
Salabertrand to

Susa (Bte. 154), 22 m. from Ce-
sanne.

ROUTE 161.

BRTAN9ON TO PIONEROL, BY THE COL
DE SESTBIEKES.

The inns between Brianyoc and
Pignerol are poor, yet superior to
those of Dauphine. As far as Ce-
sanne this is the same as the route
last described.

It is 9 hrs. good walking from
Cesanne to Ferouse.

The road made by order of Napo-
leon, from Cesanne, to descend into
Italy, is more direct than that by
Turin. Though at first neglected by
the Sardinian government, it is now in
good order, and furnished with post-
horses at Fenestrelles, 33 kilom. from
PigneroL

The road from Cesanne crosses the
Doire, and the ascent to the col imme-
diately commences, by a series of zig-
zags like that of the descent from the
Mont Gen^vre ; a lengthened snake-
like course of each can be seen from the
other across the valley of the Doire. It
soon reaches the hamlet of Champlas,
still continuing to ascend over fine pas-
turages, till it reaches

2i hrs. The Col de Sestrieres and
chalets: the plain of the col is nearly
2 miles long. On the side towarcb
the VcU Pragelas, the view is wild
and fine of the valley and the Mont
Albergian. In descending, the road
leads down by toumiijuets to the

banks of the Clusone, and to thel
village, Sestriires, 4 lea^^es fromj
sanne, and thence to the village I

1^ hr. Traverse : the broad '
the river beneath the dark pine fa
opposite to Pragekis, a larger
below Traverse, gives rather
pearance of sterility to the
At Traverse there is a humble
fLa Rose Rouge — clean beds).
Clusone gives a general name
whole vaUey, but among its '
ants the upper part above the
Fenestrelles is called the Yal
gelas; below the fort it is often
the Yal de Perouse.

2 hrs. 40 min. F^nestreUes, a
of 800 Inhab., with a bad and
Inn, The fort of Fenestrelles is a l
of great strength, which guardsj
approach to Piedmont by thiB
It rises, from the defile formed byi|
base of the Mont Albergian, to
summit of the mountain, and con*
mands the left bank of the torrent by
its immense ranges of fortificatioiu
rising in terraces. The highest battery
is accessible through a gaBery that
contains 3600 steps. On the summtf
is a basin coverea with verdure calW
the Pre de Catm&t, from that genenl
having encamped there.

These works have been in progw*
of construction by the Sardinian p-
vemment since 1816. They succeeded
an older fortress in 5 tiers of ibrtj
blown up by the army of the French
Republic. The 3 detached forts-
about a mile distant from the um
called St Charles, Trois Dents, »«»
desYaU^es— command the approacMi
A 4th batterjr, called Charles Alb«/J
sweeps the high road and closes ftu
passage.

There are remains of old forts (»
the base of the Albergian, which we«
built by the French when thisconntiT
belonged to them, in order U) de&nfi
the pass in the opposite directiOj-
The village of Fenestrelles lies in MJ
middle of the defile below. Theft''
of Fenestrelles is used as a statejj
son. It is the scene of M. Sainl»"
pretty tale of * Plcciola.'

[From Fenestrelles there is »^
pretty Pass, by the Col efe /a F^'

«f- ^ Savoy. ROUTE 161. — FisrESTRELLES TO PIGNEROL.

463

5 hrs. to Susa in the Talley of the
ire. From the top, -which is car-
tted with alpine flo-wers, is a magni-
^t view over the Doire, in which
I Roche Melon mountain is a
iking object for the last hour or two
Tugged descent.!

-IProm Fenestrelles to Fignerol
are 8 leagues, almost entirely
ough the vafiev of the Clusone.
dere is little variety in its scenery;
is generally narrow ; but where there
cmtivation, com and wine abound.
Sihe mulberry for silkworms flou-
i^es, and fruit and forest trees luxu-
IDKte, as they almost always do on the
.ilde of Piedmont. Formerly, this
tafley was filled with a Protestant
immunity, but their living in it was
longprohibited. The Vaudois churches
^re not permitted out of the vallevs
^Bora, La Tour (known also as the
^ey of Xiucexna and the Val Pelice),
St Martin, and Angrogna ; but the
more liberal policy of the Govern-
ment since 1848 has removed this
restriction.

Below Fenestrelles, the route passes
tnroTigh numerous villages and ham-
lets-Montole, Bouse Villaret, and
Chapelle-— before reaching Perosa or
3 nrs. 10 uoiji^ Pgy^^g (Jnws; Sole;
4^tico; Auberge Nationale), the prin-
cipal town in the valley, which is some-
times called the Valley of Perouse.
It is situated directly opposite to the
yalley of St. Martin, one of the most
interesting^ of the Protestant valleys.

[Proin Perouse a moderate ascent
through a beautiful valley leads to
^^TijT, or Perrero. A little above
this Tillage the valley forks. The
W. branch, preserving the name
^* 8U Martin, leads, amidst fruit-
trees, com, and pasturages, to the
conmiimeofifaneiVfo. A little beyond
\Beroad enters a deep ravine which is
smgnlarly wild and beautiful; at its
Djpper extremity it reaches the hamlet

; ^ St. Marcel

( Continuing up the valley of the
J^auasca, the house of the M.

, -"^n, the Syndic of Marcel, is passed ;
& twigularly handsome structure in
8nch a situation. About a league

above this spot is the hamlet of Bal-
sillej and immediately over it, the
celebrated Castella, a terrace on the
side of a peaked mountain, where the
Yaudois entrenched themselves under
Henri Amaud. Here the little hand-
ful of brave men, not exceeding from
600 to 700, struggled for their father-
land, and fought, for three days, the
united armies of France and Sardinia,
amounting to 22,000 men. When the
latter, however, found it necessary to
bring up artillery, which was accom-
plished with excessive difficulty, the
heroic Yaudois, foreseeing that against
the cannon they could not hold their
position, retreated during the night
without losing a man; and the follow-
ing day, their sovereign of Sardinia,
havine quarrelled with his allies,
agreed to restore them to their val-
leys and their hearths. No history
exists so replete with wonderful ad-
ventures as that of the simple pea-
sants of these valleys, who fought
and suffered, and reconquered, for
liberty of conscience.

Above the Balsille, onp of the
grandest assemblages of materials for
alpine scenery is to be found, in cata-
racts, ravines, and mountains: from
the head of the valley there is a pass
by the Col du Piz to Pragelas in the
valley of Clusone. The author has
crossed from Pragelas to Perouse in
one day, and he knows no finer tra-
verse in the Alps, and the panorama
from the col is one of the most sub-
lime in the great chain.

Another pass between the valleys
of the Germanasca and the Clusone
is that by the Col Albergian, which
leads from the Balsille and the wild
valley and Alps above it to Fene-
strelles.

From Perouse to the Balsille, and
back to Perouse, may be accomplished
easily in a day.]

The S.W. branch of the Yal St.
Martin is properly called the Yal
Germanasca. This in its turn is
divided into 2 branches, the one lead-
ing to RodorettOj the other to Pralis,
From the first there is a pass leading
to Cesanne (Bte. 160). From Pralis
it is possible to reach Cesanne on the

464

ROUTE 162.— WGNEROli TO MOOT t>ATJPHlN*

SecL

one side, or Abries (Kte. 162) on the
other, by the Col d' Abries.

There is an interesting pass from
the lower part of the V al Germanasca
to Pra del Tor, in the Val. Angrogna,
and thence to La Tour de Lusema.]

On the ronte from Peronse to Pig-
nerol some fine quarries are pass^
where stone is raised for the public
works of Turin; nearly opposite to
these is seen another of the rVotestant
churches, 8t. Germane, and the little
valley which leads to Pramol; stiU
further down is the church of Pra*
rustin, nearly opposite to where the
valley widens, and the road enters
upon the plains, through the hamlets
of Port and Abadia, to

P*yndro/ (ItaLPinerolo) — (Inns: Co-
rona, good; Canon d*Or). PigpDoroI
is a strangling town; the old part,
on the height, of narrow dirty streets;
the tieuj, between the rly. and Porte
de Prance, having manufactures of
cotton, wool, &c., and a large popula-
tion, 20,000. It was once a strong
fortress.

The Conoent of St, Frands is partly
ancient, and its Church contains monu-
ments to ancestors of the royal house
of Savoy.

On the hill of St. Brigide are ruins
of a chapel, and of the ancient citadel,
in which the "Man in the Iron Mask"
was shut up. Near the Town-hall
(Palazzo della Cittk) are the Theatre
and a College,

Railtoay 23^ m.; 3 trains a-day in
1 hr. 10 min. to Turin; the stations
being Riva, Piscina, Avrasca, None,
Canoiolo, Nichelino, and Sangone.

ROUTE 162.

PiaNEROL TO MONT DAtJPHEN, BY T|
YALLETS OF THB YAinX>IS AXTD
COL DE LA CBOIX.

Pignerol.

iift Tour de Losema ... 3 .j

Bobbio 2i '■

CioldelaOroix' 4i

Abries . 2i .]

Ch&te&udeQaeyraz. . . . 2i

MontDaapbin 4i ^

From Pignerol (Rte. 161) to Ia
Tour a diligence daily; 9 £ng. nbs
the route lies through St. Secundo ti|
Bischerasco, 5 m., aud 3 m. further tf
the first Protestant commune at

8t Oiovanni, Here a churi^ wa«
built while Piedmont was under the
government of Napoleon. Upon the
restoration of the house of Sar-
dinia, the Roman Catholics, whose
church is on the other side of a little
stream, complaiued that the voices of
the Protestants in singing disturbed
their devotions, and an order was
given to shut out the abomination by
a laree barricade of wood, which, the
Yaudois were compelled to ereet be-
fore the door of their church. This
has now, however^ dropped away bit
by bit, and little remains of this evi*
dence of intolerance. The church is
of a singular form — a horse-shoe —
but it is not favourable to the preacher
or his eongre^tion.

About a mile beyond St. Giovanni,
through a beautiful country, lies

La Tour (^lims ; L'OuiB, chez Gray,
clean and good ; Lion d*Or, chei
Rottier), the principal town of the
Protestant communities^ The valley
of La Tour is known also as the valley
of Luserna and the Val Pellice. The
handsome Protestant Church was boflt
here 1850, with residences for the
clergy and professors. General Beck-
with contributed largely to it. This
British veteran, who lost his leg •!
Waterloo, devoted 34 years of his
hfe to improving the oondition of tic
Waldenses. He lived among then,
took a wife from among them, built
churches— more than 100 schools fer

^'^ Savoy*

)m, and lies baried (1862) in the
orchyard here.

An hospital has been established for
e sick and poor among the Protest-
Its, by iundis raised chiefly in Hoi-
ind» lEUusia, and England. In 1837,
T the aid of an anonymous gift from
hgland, of 5000;. confided to the late
iey.Dr.Gilly, a Co//^tf was established
lere forthe education of young men for
the ministry of the Yaudois churches,
ind they have thus removed the ne-
isessitj which had hitherto existed of
Bonding them to Geneva or Lausanne.
This institution is chiefly endowed
hy funds raised in foreign countries,
M owing in a great measure to the
&eiality, the exertions, and the zeal
ftr the cause of the Yaudois, of
General Beckwith and Dr. Gilly. A
laige Roman Catholic church has
been bnilt here for the conversion of
^« Yaudois, but it has been attended
by. agnal failure. An orphanage
under English auspices has been in-
Btitated, also a normal school.

Within -^ m. of Lusenia a cotton-
™iU of 4 stories, moved by water-
power, has been built by a Swiss
Company. Jean Henri Tron is a re-
spectable and trustworthy guide, weU
&<iqQamted with the neighbouring
^oontains. The mountaineer must
Jiot, however, expect to find here
°Kn capable of aiding in difficult or
■dventurons excursions.
^0 part of the Alps for richness and
**^^ty in the lower valleys, and for
^^ and magnificent scenery in the
<l^es and mountains, surpasses the
yaDeys of the Yaudois. Easy of access
Jy railroad from Turin to Pignerol,
-^ Tour is reached in 2 hrs. from
^e latter, through a country luxu-
riant in vegetation. There are good
i»08 at La Tour, to make head-
<lttarters for excursions ; and the
<^vility of all classes to strangers,
especially English, ought to be a
^'^iQfflendation to rambles in their
coimtry. Of the Yaudois generally,
put especikUy of the mountaineers,
^t has been justly said, that "thev
*re, from ancient habit, honest, civil,
•nd quiet; and, frouti llieir situation
^d necessity, simple and laborious."

BOUTE 162. — ^VAL ANGROGNA.

465

[One of the most interesting excur-
sions from La Tour is into the valley
of AngrognOy which is surrounded by
lofty mountains and pasturages. It
is richly wooded down to the deep
defiles of its torrent, and presents
every variety of scenery. Some of
its wild scenes are associated with
the history of the Yaudois; as the
defiles or Barricades of Pra del Tor
(2^ hrs/ walk from La Tour), which,
defended by them, gave security to
their families, who sought refuge
within this grand and most pictur-
esque defile. Above it^ in the re-
cesses of these mountains, concealed
from the world for many ages, their
Barbes, or teachers, imparted instruc-
tion, and fitted their pupils for the
ministry. Every foot ot ground in
this valley is sacred in the history
of this extraordinary people. In the
Pra del Tor there has lately been
erected a Koman Catholic church, but
the heart of the valley is not the
heart of the people. This excursion
may be varied by crossing directly
over the hill from a little oelow the
Pra del Tor to St Marguerite, and
thence to La Tour (3 hrs. walk): the
whole excursion may be made in half
a day.

The excursion may be varied by
following the high-road to the village
of Angrogua, which offers from many
beautiful points of view the plains of
Piedmont. The return may be made
through the defiles, or on the steep
slopes that bound the river. A day
given to explore the Yal Angrogna
will be remembered with pleasure.]

From La Tour, up the valley of
the Pellice, the road, widened for
carriages as far as Bobbio, but exe-
crably rough, passes by the hamlet
of St. Marguerite, near the rock of
CastelluE, where is situated a Pro-
testant church. Beyond this hamlet
the ascent of the valley is rich and
picturesque. [Opposite the viUage of
VUlar a narrow glen opens to the S.,
by which Crissolo, in the head valley
of the Po (Rte. 163), may be reached
in 5 or 6 hrs. over the ridge of the
Sea BiancaJ^

466

EOUTE162. — BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX. Sect. H.

2^ hrs. from La Tour
Bdbio is reached. No inn. A sta-
tion of Sardinian preposes, or dou-
aniers, and a cafe, where Jacques Bai-
mond, a civil and experienced guide
for the mountains, may be heard of.
Above Bobbio there is only a mule-
path, 7 hrs.' walk to Abries.

[From Bobbio, a pass N. over the
mountain by Serra le Cruel and the
Col Julien leads to Pralis in 6 or 7 hrs.
From liaTour this is a day's journey,
and few excursions offer more striking
scenes especially from the Col Julien.
Near the sunmiit, 4 hrs.' hard walk from
Bobbio, surmounting all the neigh-
bouring ridges, the Monte Yiso ap-
pears so near that the path to the Col
de Yiso, on the side of France, can be
distinctly traced, ascending nearly
- due S., beneath the precipices till it
turns abruptly to the £. at the col.
The descent towards Fralis is very
long and fatiguing, 2 hrs.' hard walk.
Fralis consists of 4 separate hamlets.
Uiere is no Inn, but at the 3rd of
these strangers are received kindly at
the pastor's house, if he has room.
From Fralis down the valley to Perosa
(Rte. 161) is 4 hrs. b^ a char road.]

On leaving Bobbio a long wall is
seen, an embankment, or Breakwater,
made to guard the village from the
inundations of the Feluce; it was
bmlt by a grant from Oliver Crom-
well, durine whose protectorate one
of those learfal calamities nearly
destroyed Bobbio. A little beyond,
the river is crossed, and the moun-
tain ascent begins; soon, on bending
to the 1., the scenery becomes wild,
though the bottom is still occupied
by water-meadows scattered here and
there with walnut and chestnut. The
last view down the valley towards
Bobbio is very fine.

After a long course amidst strangely
situated hamlets, where rocks and
trees of the wildest character make
up a rapid succession of picturesque
scenes, the path reaches a dreary
mass of rocks, over which is poured
the torrent of the Fellice, and further
progress seems forbidden. Up amidst
these fallen fragments, however, a
path is found, threading a deep ravine,

in which are the ruins of the fort
of MirabouCf built against the steep
escarpments of the mountain, in a
gorge which is utterly impassable on
the side opposite to the fort; nor is
there a patn on the side where the '
ruins of the fort stand that does not
pass through its former gates. The
tort was demolished after the wars of
the French revolution, in 1796,

[A little before reaching Mirabouc,
a valley towards the rt leads to the
village of Abries by the Col de
Malaure, a shorter but more difficult
path than that by the Col de la
Croix.]

Above the fort Mirabouc, a roughly
pitched path through a narrow and
sterile valley enters upon the mea-
dows of the Bergerie de Pra (3 hrs.
from Bobbio) — the highest hamlet in
the valley, situated in the midst of
fertile pasturages, where barley and
potatoes are raised.

From the Bergerie of Pra, where
the Alpine traveller may rest in a
grange with more comfort t^an in
many places of much greater preten-
sion, he may reach the French side of
Monte Yiso by the Col de Seyliere
at a much earlier hour than fron
Abries in the valley of the Gail;
having crossed it, the distance is
short to the Col de la Traversette,
and this is the easiest detour by the
Yiso from the Yal de Felice to thi
vaUey of the Po.

The lovers of the chase may fim
hunter's accommodation at the Ber
gerie de Pra. The abundance of chi
mois in the surrounding mountaii
and the fine, honest character of t)
peasantry here, are great temptatioi
to its enjoyment.

The ascent to the Col de
Croix is by a steep path, made
zigzags up the abrupt side of the c
towanls Piedmont. The col is T&auc^
in 1| hr. from the Bergerie ; and £p
the highest point (7611 ft.} tliere i
s^king view of the defile of !M irabo
and Monte Yiso is a noble object.
col is nearly level for lialf an
and then the path, traversing thi
of a hollow, gradually subsides
valley of the Guil, within tlie

•t^d^- & Sawy, ROUTE 162. — abries. mont dauphin.

467

.xy of France. On the col there is
block of stone carved with the fleur-
}'lis, and the cross of Savoy, to mark
ke frontier, and at La Marday in the val'
\y of the Guil, a station of the douane,
liere travellers are examined; the
escent into France is very gradual;
races of an intended road surveyed
nder Napoleon may be seen. On
tie rt., in descending, there is a den,
liscalled an inn, at La Monta ; thence,
ixrough the hamlet of Bistolas, you
eacli in 2^ hrs. from the col

Abries (a country 7nn, Etoile, or
;hez Richard; very fair quarters ;
but make your bargain and fix prices
betbrehand), a town of 1525 Inhab.
Eere the torrent from Valprevaire
Aows into the Guil, and a path up
its course leads to several moun-
tain passes. Below Abries the road
through the valley of the Guil, good
and passable for a light caliche,
passes the valleys in which there
are stiU Protestant communities, par-
ticularly that of St. Veran (Rte. 1 69),
in a valley which joins from the 1.
the valley of the Guil, at Ville-
vielles, and the valley of Arvieux,
which enters that of the Guil near
Queiras. To these, and the Yal
Frassenidres, on the other side of the
Durance, the name of the Fays de Neff
;.has been given, to commemorate the
jfTOrvices rendered to these commu-
2 nities by the Swiss Protestant minis-
j.ter,who devoted his life to renovating
ttid sustaining the religious worship
^^ the primitive Christians that had
Attisted in these valleys from time im-
^oemoriaL Neff, lite Oberlin, the
'd pastor of the Ban de la Boche,
only promoted the religious faith
practice of these people, but esta-
led schools, and taught them agri-
and the elements of other
knowledge. He died in 1829.
name throughout these vaUeys
[1'anembered with the deepest re-
9iice and affection. 2^ hrs. fiir-
iroiiT is

i«

lob^

Chateau de QvMras^ finely
id in the valley: it is gar-
fr^^aed, and entirely commands the
^^^ and from every point of view

Presents a most picturesque object,
'here is a tolerable inn at Queiras.

Below Queiras a new road is open
to Mont Dauphin. The old one skirts
the deep bed of the river for a short
way, then descending to the torrent,
which it crosses, it continues for
nearly 2 hrs., through a fine defile.
In some places the mountains seem
to close m above the traveller; and
it is often necessary to cross the Guil
to find a path on one side, which is
forbidden on the other by projecting
rocks or precipices of vast height :
some hamlets are passed in this savage
ravine. From some points in the
path there is a magnificent view of the
Mont Pelvoux, seen at the head of the
Yal Louise. At length the road emerges,
winds up a steep and rugged path,
crosses the torrent of Seulac, and
descends upon Guillestre (a very fair
Inn, perhaps the best in this part of
Dauphine), a little bourg, lying on the
1. of the road to Mont Dauphin, which
was one of the stations, during the
war, for English prisoners.

A little below, the road passes be-
neath the fort of Mont Dauphin, planned
by Vauban and Catinat, which guards
this entrance to France — a garrison
singularly placed on a precipitous
rock of conglomerate that is nearly
insulated at the mouth of the Guil
at its confluence with the Durance.
The Inn (Cafg du Nord) is good for
Dauphine, but not clean ; clean lodg-
ings and beds are kept for the officers
of the garrison, and can be engaged
by travellers. For the sake of these
it may be worth while to ascend the
steep hill on which the fort stands, be-
sides which, from the drawbridge you
have a fine view of Mont Pelvoux, un-
der Mont Dauphin. The great route
from Marseilles and Digne to Bri-
an9on is entered; and the course down
the valley to Fmbrun (2 hrs.) is by
an admirably formed and well-kept
road. (See HAin)BOOK fob France.)

If this excursion be commenced
firom the side of France the diligence
from Brian9on to Gap will drop the
traveller at Mt. Dauphin (5 or 6
hrs. walk firom Brian^on), where an
omnibus will take him on to Guillestre.

468

ROUTE 163. — ^MONT DATTPHIN TO SALUZZO.

Sect-E

There he can hire a one-horse cal^he
for Abries, stopping at Queiras to rest
and dine. Time: Brian^on to Guil-
lestre, 4^ hrs. G. to Abries, 6 hrs.,
exclusire of stops. Awid making the
journey betwe^i the 1st and 21st of
July, that being the time allowed by
the French Government for cutting
wood in the forests — the horses are
then all employed, and the char^ for
them is exorbitant: indeed it is so
at all times.

KOUTE 163.

MONT DAUPHIN TO SAIiTJZZO, BY THE COL
DE LA TRAVERSETTE.

Time steady walking from Mont
Dauphin to Queyras is ^hrs. through
amagnificent ravine, good road ; thence
to Abries 2^ hrs., scenery tamer; and
to the col 5 hrs. more. The char-road
ceases at La Monta. From thence to
Crissolo, in the valley of the Fo, the
pass is only for pedestrians.

From Mont Dauphin to Abries (Bte.
162).

After passing JRistolas and ascend-
ing the valley of the Guil to La
Monta— where the path to the Col
de la Croix turns off to the L — the
route to the Monte Viso continues up
the Valley to the highest village, 1^
ChaJpe, anout a mile and a half above
La Monta. At La Chalpe guides
may be obtained for excursions either
across the Monte Viso to Salu2zo, or
into the valleys and recesses of Monte
Viso.

The valley of the Oud above
Abries is o^urow and savage : bare
and precipitoufi escarpments descend

to the torrent, and form its le
boundary : the bed of the Guil
filled with enormous rocks. ""
path to the col ascends above
rt. bank over steep acclivities and!
pasturages abounding in rare plftob. I
Above these the head of the Hoato
Viso is continually presented filling
the open space in the view, formed bj
the sides of the valley of the Goii
The highest chalet, probably nearly
8000. ft. above the sea, formerly af-
forded a very tolerable refoge for a
night or two to a mountain traveller;
but llie roof fell in during the spring
of 1860, owing to the weight of snow,
and the only other hut, occupied by 2
or 3 shepherds, has a deterring aspect
From this point an active peaestriaD
may reach Bobbio, in the valley of
the Pellice, in 5 hrs., and La Tour*
Lusema in 7 hrs. (Rte. 162> Abore
the ruined Bergerie •du Monfiso the
pasturages are at length left and the
ascent Ses over a road rudely ps^^l
with large rough stones. Tnis b&s
been several times repaired so as to
enable mules to pass, but fresh damage
is constantly arising from the action
of the elements, and during some
sunmiers the snow lies low on bod
sides of the pass. The paved rm
reaches to the Gallery of the Jhwer-
sette, pierced through Vie mountain
250 feet below the crest. Its entrance,
long closed by the fallen debris of the
precipices wnich overhang the paft
has been cleared of all obstacles, and
opened out so as to render this gjJJ
easy to ordinary pedestrians. The
tunnel is 250 ft. long, 10 ft. high, m
10 ft. wide.

Documents existingat Salncespro^
that the FertuU du Viso, or tinuiel
below the col, was executed, l^
by Ludovico L, Marquis of Salwes;
who, vdth a spirit beyond ^^
undertook this extraordinary von
for the commercial interests of »*
people, by making a route three hf
shorter than any other from SaliJ
to Dauphine. By treaty with B»
king of Frovence, who contribute
waras the expenses on his side ^
mountain, this rood was opened i<^ I

'W' ^ Sacoy.

eire from France, by laden mules,
ftlt, drapery, and metal wares, in re-
am for nut-oil, wine, rice, and iiax
rem the marquisate of Saluces. By
Aeans of this gallery, and the reacts
onstrncted as approaches, this inter-
soarse was open 6 or 8 months in the
fear. The gallery was begun in 1478,
md was completed in 1480 ; — an extras
Drdinury work to accomplish in that
time, as the excavators could only
labour, at that height above the sea
level, about 4 or 5 months in the
year.

This gallery has frequently been
buried under rocks descending from
abo?e~in 1620, 1676, 1798, 1812, 1823
—and the fallen masses were removed
by the people of the eonmiunes on
either side of the mountain. It is
liable to be closed by snow after severe
winters.

The passage is once more free,
^ is greatly facilitated by the gal-
lery; for, though the perpendicular
Wght saTed is not 300 it, this is the
most difficult part.

^m the col the view down the
vaOey of the Po, and over the plains of
l^^edmont, is pre-eminently beautiful.
Thia vast esmanse, seen from a height
oCyery nearfy 10,000 Eng. feet above
uie leyel of the sea, commands a view
over an extent of 100 miles to the
horizon. The rooks and vast preci-
pices in the fore^ound and on the
^jithedeop subsidences of the moun-
WU18 which bound the valley of the
*<> unmediately below the observer,
tif ,7 *^^ lower and lower into
•J« plains, are most impressive^ On
"^^pUin, bright but mdistinot masses
"?«kthe positions of the towns and
clUes of Piedmont within the view,
^ this indistinctness, contrasted
^u the sharp and defined forms of
. «« enormous peak of the Viao, rising
jet 3000 feet higher than the spot
1 ^hich the observer stands, ana in
'^^se proximity, produce an inde-
loable effect upon his mind and
^^ making this one of the most
^gttincetit and sublime scenes in
e world.

In order to gain a prospect of the

llOUTE 163.— COL DE VISO.

469

range of Alps towards the north, the
traveller must descend a little towards
Italy, and then mount an eminence
on the L which before obscured that
part of the chain : but this is only
recommended to those who have time
to spare, which few have who wish to
gain Paesana on the side of Italy, or
Abries in France, as resting-places
for the night.

The traveller who would enjoy this
view should leave Abries so as to be
on the Col de Viso by 10 o'clock or
earlier. This can only be made cer-
tain by starting soon after 4 in the
morning from Abries, or better still,
by sleeping at La Monta, or at one of
the chalets higher up in the valley:
before mid-day vapours rise in tne
plains and the valley of the Po,
and obscure the prospect. The
ChlUet of La Trouchet lies in the
bottom of the valley near where it
is quitted to ascend the col; here
dean straw or hay may be had
to sleep upon, and ewe's milk curd
for food. The chftlet is situated half
way in time between Abries and the
colt ^ hrs. frx>m each.

The col is a mere ridge, so narrow
that it is traversed in a few paces.
On it are the remains of a redoubt;
and during the wars of the Revo-
lution many struggles were made and
skirmishes fought for the possession
of this position.

Some, with no better foundation
than the fact that the plains of the
Po could be seen from the col, have
supposed that this was the route of
Hannibal; but the same authority
that records his having shown the
plains to his army states that the
army encamped on the sununit, and
waited three days for stragglers.
Here, 100 men could not have en-
camped, and the pass must ever have
been impracticable to elephants, and
even horses.

Down a steep and difiicult path the
traveller has to proceed towards the
valley of the Po; but there is nothing
about the pass that would strike even
an inexperienced traveller as dan**
gerous.

470

ItOUTE 163.— COL DE VXSO. BARGE.

Sect. II.

About 1000 ft. below the col a
mass of rock is turned abruptly, and
on the rt there lies a scene unsur-
passed for the immensity of the ob-
jects aboTe, below, and around the
observer. On looking up to the rt.,
one of the peaks of Monte Viso
rises, in all its magnificence, on one
side of a deep yaliey, in which are
seen some little dark lakes, the sources,
of the Po, yirhich below them is seen
to trickle in a sUver line down the
black rocks, from the base of the Viso
into the valley beyond. Nothing can
exceed the impression of solitude and
sublimity maae by this scene. At
length, nowever, the wildness of the
scene is passed, and vegetation is soon
after reached in a beautiful little pj&in
covered with the richest herbage. This
spot is called the Piano del He ; in it
there is a delicious fountain, from which
the traveller rarely faUs to quaff.

A short descent from the Piano del
Be leads to another little plain, the
Piano di Fiorenza, so named from its
beautiful flowers, with which it is en-
amelled. Nearly 2 m. below is the
first hamlet, Piana Maize, a name
derived from the forest of larches
which is near it. The wretched ap-
pearance of its inhabitants is sicken-
ing : here is the station of the Sar-
dinian douane. About 3 m. further
down the valley is the highest village,
Crissolo, formerly notorious for its
wretched accommodation. There is
now a tolerable Inn at the lowest of
the hamlets in the commune. It is
several degrees better than the moun-
tain inns found in Dauphin^

Below Crissolo there are some fine
wild scenes in the valley of the Po ;
and after having passed tne confluence
of the Lenta with the Po, the village
of Oncino is seen in a striking situa-
tion between the two rivers. From
Oncino, the view of the valley of the
Po, and the plains of Piedmont, is
singularly fine. The inhabitants of
Oncino had some celebrity as bri-
gands ; at least their neighbours gave
them that character.

Professor Forbes made an interest-
ing excursion round Monte Viso in
1829. Instead of descending to thie

pasturages on the side of Piedmont,
he skirted, on the eastern side, the
middle height of the Monte Viso,
and passing the little dark lakes, the
sources of the Po, ascended the valley
under the Viso, which runs nearly
parallel to the great chain ; and
crossing the col that divides this
valley from that of Ponte, which
leads down to Castel Delflno, and
ascending on the rt from the Val
de Ponte, recrOssed the main chain
by the Col de Coulaon on the W.
shoulder of the Monte Viso, and
thence descended into the valley of
the GuO, having made a complete
circuit of the mountain ; but it was
accomplished only with excessive &-
tigue and difficulty.

Now that there is tolerable accom-
modation at Crissolo the best way to
make the tour is to take a guide from
that village and cross the ridge sepa-
rating the Po from the upper part of the
Val di Vallante (Bte. 165), keeping
as high up, and as near to the main
mass of Monte Viso, as possible: from,
thence an active mountaineer might
cross the Col di VaUante to the
Bergerie, and from thence return to
the valley of the Po by the Traver-
sette, all in the same day, but it would
be a severe day's work.

Paesana is distant from Crissolo
about 3 hrs. It is a large town with
5000 Inhab. Here there is a very tole-
rable inn. Desiderio kine of the
Lombards, who was defeated dj Char-
lemagne, and kept prisoner for a long
time at Vienne, m Dauphine, was

Sermitted at last to take up his resi-
ence at Paesana. From Paesana &
tolerable road branches off to

Barge — (Inn: Lion d*Or, good and
cheap) — and passes through a beauti- i
ful and rich coimtry, by Bibbiena and
St Giovanni, to Lucema and Tol Tour
(Bte. 134).

From Paesana to Saluces is abotf
17 m., passing through the to^virn of

Sanfront (Inhab. above 5000) d
the villages of Gambasca and Jfir-
tiniana. At the latter, the ytiSeft

^iec^ ^ Savoy.

ROUTE 165. — ABRlfa TO CUNEO.

471

'^^hich had widened to the plams from
jPaesana, is altogether leftW the tra-
^v^eUer and the remaining mstance of
^ or 7 m., after skirting the moun-
-tain, enters upon the plain, oyer a
level road, to

Saluces (ItaL Salazzo) {Inns: H. du
Ooq; Conronne; Armes de SaTOie), a
town of 15,814 Inhab. Not mach to
lt>e seen here. Cathedral, 1480. The
old Castle of the Marquises of Saluces,
above the town, is now a prison.
Fine view from its terrace. In one of
the squares, a statue of Silvio Fellioo,
author of * Mie Prigioni,* bom here
1789. Fine fruits— peaches, figs. Ely.
hence to Turin by Savigliano in
IJhr.

KOUTE 165.

ABM^S TO CUNEO, BY VAL VRAITA
OB VAL MAIRA.

This route leads through very
beautiful scenery, which has been
much neglected by tourists, and the
pass of Vallante presents some grand
and striking scenes. The Monte
Yiso juts out towards Italy from the
main chain of the Cottian Alps in the
fonn of a bastion, the acute inner
angle of which belongs to France,
ana sends its waters to the GuiL
The N.E. face of the bastion rises
above the head of thb valley of the
Po, while the S. face sends its waters
through various secondary valleys to
the Yal Vraita.

The summit of Monte Yiso being
considered the salient &ngle of the
bastion, the pass of the Traversette
lies to the N. W., the Col di Yallante,
immediately W. of the summit, cross-
ing the S. race of the bastion.

From Abri^ to a short distance

below the Bergerie de Monviso the
route is the same as in Bte. 163. At
that point, instead of turning up to
the L, the main valley is followea for
^ hr. towards the highest peak of the
mountain. The scenery here is very
impressive. The head of the valley
forms a sort of amphitheatre ; in the
nearly level bottom snow lies for 9 or
10 months of the year; and around,
especially towards the highest part of
the mountain, precipitous faces of
rock alternate with steep shelving
slopes covered with perpetual snow.
In spite of the great height of Monte
Yiso (12,586 n.)» none but small
glaciers of the second order are formed
about it, partly because of its extreme
steepness, partly because the climate
is very sensibly warmer than that of
Switzerhuid or northern Piedmont.

The ascent to the Col de Yallante
commences up a mass of very steep
debris mingled with snow at the base
of some vertical rocks. It will be
advisable to take one of the shepherds
from the last chdiets to show the way,
as it may very easily be missed.
Above the debris is an extensive snow
ridge, over which the course bears
somewhat to the rt. or E. of S., till
the traveller suddenly finds himself on
the upper margin of a steep hollow
channel, or couloir, the bottom of
which is filled with snow.

l^e descent, though steep, presents
no difficulty to a practised moun-
taineer, nor will he require a guide
beyond the summit. Care must be
taken to keep to the rt. side of the
ravine which commences below the
snow-slopes. The summit of the Col
di Vallante is about the height of the
Traversette, or nearly 10,000 Eng. ft;
and the vertical height descended to
reach the highest di&lets in Val di
Vallante must be very considerable.
At these chalets of Ponte a hospitable
old man will give shelter for the night,
with milk, cheese, &c., to tired tra-
veller; and for those making the tour
of Monte Yiso, these quarters, how-
ever poor, are convenient. Care is
necessary to avoid mistakes arising
from the name Ponte being applied
to several different places in this

472

BOUTE 165. — CA8T1ELDELFIN0.

SecLIU

neighbourhoocL The principal place
80 named is Ponte CktaoMtle^ the chief
village in the S. branch of the Yal
Traits. The small hamlet of QagteU
ponUt 2 hrs. below Ponte Ohianale, at
the junction of the Vai di Yallanfe
with the Yal de Chianale, is also
called Ponte; and the chalets abore
spoken of bear the same name.

A short distance below the chalets
trees begin to appear, and the scenery
of the lower part of the Yal di Yal-
lante is very beautiful, the charm
being enhanced by its contrast with
the bare and savage character of the
higher valleys of Monte Yiao. From
Castelponte theire is a rough mule-
path to Casteldelfino; but there are
footpaths which make the way shorter
and pleasanter to the pedestrian. In
9 hrs. from Abries the traveller reaches

Casteldelfino^ the chief village of the
upper Yal Yraita, contaiaiQg a poor
Inn; the landlord is blind; but though
not to be reconunended, it is better
than similar places in Dauphin^. The
position is very beautiful; and if the
acconunodation were better, it would
be an excellent place for headquarters.
The Val Vratta, which runs due E.
for 20 m. from hence to Yenasca,
where it opens out into the plain of
Piedmont, differs in character from
the neighbouring valleys. Being less
contracted, it has fine open pastures,
extensive pine-forests on the slopes
of the mountains, and some tillage in
the bottom of the valley. Above Cas-
teldelfino it is separated into two
branches by the ridge descending
from the Orim Mioburent, 11,000 ft. in
height, the highest P^ak in the chain
S. of Monte Yiso. The IS, branch, or
Yal di Chianale, leads by the Col del
Agnello to Queiras in the, valley of die
Guil (Bte. 162), or by the Colde Longet
to Baroelonette, .throufhthe valley of
the Ubaye (Bte. 169). Both these

? asses are nearly 9000 ft in height.
*he S. branch, or Yal di Bellino,
communicates by several passes with
the valley of the Ubaye. There is a
char-road from Casteldelfino to Sam"
peyre, about 10 .m., the chief village
in Yal Yraita, and from thence

to Veiumc, 10 m. farther. This s,
distant about 10 m. eiUter from S»-l
luszo, or from the stat. of Maddalensl
on the rly. from Turin. to Cuneo.]
Those who are not pressed for time,
and who wish to see more of tibis
portion of the Alns, will cross the
ridge S. of Casteldelfino, separating
the valleys of Yraita and Maira. The
ascent to the Ool di Elva is very
beautiful, partly through pine-forest,
partly diroueh open pastures covered
with rare and beautiful alpine plants.
It is but a slight detour to ascend
nearly due S., reachmg the ridge a
little to the £. of the actual ooL The
views in the ascent, and from the
summit, are very beautiful. Monfe
Yiso is of course the most conspicu-
ous object, but in many other direc-
tions ru|[ged- ranges are seen, whose
very existence is unknown to the
generality of alpine travellers. W.
of the col is a fine rocky peak, the
Pelvo di Elva, just 10,000 ft. in height,
which must command a still finer
view. From the summit (probably
about 7000 ft. in height) there is a
path leading down to a small cluster
of very poor houses, at the h^d of
a ravine which runs down due S. to
the main valley. Like the Val Main
itself, these tributary valleys or
ravines are all extremely steep and
abrupt, so that it is a matter of labonr
and difficulty, often an impossibilitr,
to cross them. It is therefore nec^
sary to decide in time whether the
traveller intends to steer for Pra»,
or PrazzOf the highest village in Val
Maira, where tolerable quarters are
to be found, or whether he proposes
to reach on the same day S. Damiano,
at the lower end of the vaU«y. In
either case a considerable d^toor is
rendered necessary by the extreme
steepness of all the slopes of the
mountains. The course to Prass lies
to the rt. of the main ntvine; that to
Stroppo, the first villas^ in the Vi^
Maira, after a steep descent, beti?
away to the 1. by the village of Skf-
The scenery throughout bears cor
parison with many districts of ^
greater celebrity; and the view oi^
ranges of the Maritime Alps, ir«s<^

fiedf' d Savoy. boute 166. — cuneo to embbun.

projecting eooineiiee, which must be

crossed by a short ascent from the

i-yillage of Elva, is one of the most

#triJuQg in this part of the Alps.

•Stroppo lies more than a thousand

feet lower than Casteldelfino, yet the

riyer runs in a deep ravine below

which it has cut out of the yielding

, strata. Stroppo has a very small /»»,
of which, owing to the landlord's ab-
sence, the writer was unable to see
the interior. At the. next village,
Mna, there are two Irms, both yery
meao, so that it is better to push on
to S. Damiano, about 3 hrs. from
Stroppo. The walk should, if pos-
sible, be taken either early or late, as
it is oppressively hot during the day-
time. Yet it would be a loss to pass
such beautifCil scenery in the dark;
aJMi the track is so extremely rough
that it would be disagreeable, and
even dangerous in places where it is a
mere narrow shelf cut out of a pre-
cipitous slope.

473

SmDamiano is a large and thriving
^^illace, with a very fair Inn, where a
one-horse vehicle may be hired, which
wiU reach the rly* stat. at Cuneo in
about 3 hrs., passing through the fine
country town of Dronero.

KOUTE 166,

CUNEO TO EMBRUN, BY THE COL D'AR-
GENTlllRE AND BARCELONETTE.

The Stura, one of the largest afflu-
ents of the POr which the traveller to
Nice crosses near Cuneo, or Coni, issues
from an open vaUey opposite to St.
Dalmazio, where the high road to Nice
is left, and the course up the yalley
of the Stura is by a very good road
for a light carriage, which extends as
far as Yenadio — greatly facilitating
the intercourse wi& this place, which
is the principal bourg in the valley,
and ofi&ring a temptation to invalids
to visit the mineral springs in the
neighbourhood, which are much fre-
quented. The distance from St. Dal-
mazio to Yenadio is nearly 8 leagues.

In ascending the yalley, the first
hamlet is that of St. Martino; soon
after passing it the Stura appears in
its deep course in the yalley; and be-
yond it, rising abruptly amidst some
pinnacled rocks and precipices, lies
the village of Bocca Sparviera. Fran-
cis L in his invasion of Italy (1515)
despatched a column of cavalry under
Bayard from Briangon by the Cols do
Sestridre and Argenti^re, paths where
a horse had seldom passed before,
which, descending suddenly the rocks
of Rocca Sparviera, surprised the
Papal general Prosper Colonna at
table in V iUa Franca, near the head-
water of the Po, and made him pri-
soner, with a band of 700 knights, his
followers, so suddenly that he asked
if they had dropped &om the clouds.

Soon after passing Rocca Sparviera
the road Mdnds down to the river,
crosses the Stura, and continues on
its left bank almost throughout the
valley. The cultivated hmd which
borders the Stura is very rich and
luxuriant : the chestnut trees are of

474

ROUTE 166. — ^DEMONT. VENADIO.

Sect. IX^

great magnitade ; and the forms of
the mountains which bound the vallej
are highly picturesque.

About 4 leagues from St. Dalmazio
the traveller reaches

Demont (Tfun: Fleur de Lys, poor).
A town formerly remarkable ror its
fort, which guarded the yalley of the
Stura and the communication with
France by the Col d*Argenti^re ; it
was built by Charles Emanuel I. in
the 16th cent, upon the ruins of an
old castle which had been razed by
the Austrians in 1559. It has been
memorable for its sieges in almost
every war between France and Sar-
dinia. In that of 1744, when the
Spanish and French armies, com-
manded by the infant Don Philip and
the Prince of Conde, invaded Pied-
mont, they forced the narrow pass of
the Barricades, descended the vaUey
of the Stura, and took the fort of
Demont by the use of red-hot shot.
Afterwards they besieged Coni, and
fought a battle which tney won from
Charles Emanuel HI., who succeeded,
however, in throwing supplies into
the city, which was gallantly de-
fended. After a long and tedious in-
vestment, the storms of autimm and
the want of supplies — which were cut
off by the Piedmontese peasantry —
compelled the allies to raise the siege
and recross the Alps towards the latter
end of November, when they suffered
the severest privations from cold,
hunger, and mtigue. Thoueh pur-
sued by the troops, assailed oy the
peasants, and exposed to storms, yet
they returned to France, over frozen
roads, and through deep snow, with
all their artillery, and with a few guns
taken from their enemies, — the miser-
able trophies for which they had sacri-
ficed thousands of lives and millions
of treasure : on their way they de-
stroyed the fort of Demont. It was
again restored, but finally demolished
in 1801 ; when Piedmont having be-
come a part of France, the forts that
guarded the defiles on the frontiers
of Dauphiny were razed. Since the
restoration of Piedmont the recon-
struction of many has been contem-

plated, some begun, and this among 1
them. The mound upon which tiaci
ruins stand is situated in the middle I
of the valley, — ^the river passing on ^
one side and the road on the other.
From Demont to

VenadiOf the scenery is, in many
places, highly picturesque, — a chariB
for which it is much indebted to the
magnificent old trees which form fore-
grounds to beautiful views of the
river and the mountains; and these
are heightened by the festoons of
vines and gourds which decorate the
branches. From the town of Venadio
the scene down the valley is very fine.
Here it is necessary to leave the char;
but mules may be hired for continuing
the journey up the valley, and across
the Argentidre into France. About
an hour above Venadio at a place
called Plancie, a ravine, with a cas-
cade at its entrance, joins the valley
on the left. In this ravine, at an
hour's walk firom Plancie, are the
Bat?is of Venadio — a very humble and
sequestered establishment The ra-
vine which leads to them is in some
places very grand, and abounds in
cascades both above and below the
baths.

Above Venadio the change is rapid
to wild and Alpine scenery, yaryng
from a road by the stream which rip-
ples through quiet meadows, to nar-
row paths which overhang the course
of the torrent — a course too narrow
in the ravine for a path by the river:
it is therefore carried on ledges of the
precipices above, and forms, in some
places, fearful mule-paths for the tra-
veller's ascent of the valley. Such
scenes are observed near Zambucco.
Above are the villages of Pied de
Port and Pont Bernardo. At a place
called the Barricades — ^a narrow de-
file, where defences of the valley were
formerly erected, and which was oftei
the scene of desperate conflicts — ^thf
road is carried along a shelf of mi
above the river, and has been cut o^
of the precipices which darken ii^
overhang the ravine, and offer a
almost impregnable barrier ty tlie
passage of the valley. Above the

Pied\Sf Savoy, route 166. — ^bersesio. col d'argenti^re. 475

Barricades the road, or rather path,
lies amidst the dehns of the moimtains
which bound the valley, and offer a
scene of wild desolation. Above it
lie the villages of Fraynard and Ber-
sesio ; the latter is the principal place
between the Barricades and the Col
d'Argentidre. Here accommodation
may be found, after a long day's jour-
ney from Coni, preparatory to another
from Bersesio, across the mountain to
Barcelonette.

BersesiOj about 4 hrs. from Venadio,
has a very tolerable mountain Inn,
Above this village the scenery is wild
and rugged, the mountains presenting
a thousand pinnacles of rock, blighted
and scathed. Still, in the valley,
barley is cultivated, and the pastures
are rich ; and the villages of Areentidre
and Xia Madelaine are found^ where
there is a poor little Inn, Soon after
passing this, the path leads abruptly to
the Col cTArgentieref also called Col delta
Maddalena, 6700 ft. above the level
of the sea. Before arriving at the
crest, the path skirts a little lake, the
source of Uie Stura, called La Made-
laine: it is about 600 or 700 ft. across.
This lake is supposed to be the source
also of the Doayette, a stream on
the side of Erance ; for, at a short
distance from the col on that side,
and a little below the level of the lake,
a spring — ^the source of the Ubayette
—gushes out : this spring, it is
beUeved, conmiimicates with the
lake.

From the summit the view is very
extensive, especially towards France,
looking down the course of the
Ubayette towards TArche, the fron-
tier station of the French douane.
li'Arche is nearly 3 hours from
Sersesio; it has a very humble 7nn,
but kept bv civil people. Better
accommodation, however, will be
found, chez Peneanty at Meyronne,
where there is a comfortable country
Irm; but provisions are, in this neigh-
bourhood, very scarce. From L'Arche
to Meyronne is an hour's walk, and
thence to Barcelonette 3^ hrs. At
Meyronne there is an excellent guide
to the neighbouring Alps, named Du-

mas. Below TArche there is little
interest in the scenery. The road
descends through the villages of Cer-
tamusa and Meyronne to the junction
of the Ubayette with the Ubaye,
where two roads lead into the Em-
brunnais, — the principal following the
course of the XJbaye to Barcelonette,
the other leading by the camp of
Tournoux, the village of St. Paul,
and the Col de Vars, to Guillestre and
the vaUey of the Durance.

The scene is fine from where these
roads separate. Chatelard, a well-
cultivated little plain, is left on the
rt., and the road passes on through
Jausier. There is not much interest
generally in the scenery, except at
Pont de Cluse, near Jausier, where
the rocky defile through which the
Ubaye struggles offers some fine
points of view.

The pass of the Argentidre has an
historic interest, because through it
Francis L penetrated with an army of
20,000 men (1513) into Italy to meet
the Swiss and other foes at Marignaiu
They had got the start of the French
by occupying Susa and seizing all the
gorges communicating with the Monts
Cenis and Genfevre, so that Francis
was obliged either to make a very
great detour or to find or make a
passage for himself. The information
of experienced himters and shepherds
obtained by the Signer Soleir, lord
of Morets, induced him to select the ,
passes leading from Barcelonette to
the sources of the Stura and the
country of Saluzzo. The valleys were
explored b^ the Marshids Lautree
and Trivulzio and by Pedro Novarro,
who undertook not only to conduct
the infantry, but all the artillery, con-
sisting of 72 large pieces and 300
small. This was successfully achieved
after great difficulty, the e^s requir-
ing to be swung by rope from rock to
rock, where neither brid&^e could be
built nor rocks blasted by powder;
and on the third day the army en-
camped on the summit of the pass.
The Bocher de St. Paul, near Bar-
celonette, which barred the passage,
was blasted in a single day by P.
Novarro, one of the first engineers

476

ROUTE 166.— ooL d'aegentAre. barcelonettk. Sect. II.

who practised military nuning. But
this wa^ the easiest part of the task ;
far more ardnoi^s was it, on the edge
of sloping crags smoothed with ava-
lanches and slippery with ice, to plant
and to fasten the timber props on
which frail bridges could be reared to
cross the torrents, and against the
face of precipices and over yawning
gulfs, to erectmg scaffoldings of shaky
plankfi which horses, mules, and 72
heavy cannon could venture to pass
over. In some cases this was im-
possible, and the only alternative was
to let down the gun by ropes into
the gorge on one side and raise it up
on the opposite. All these and many
more difficulties were overcome ; on
the third day the army camped on
the summit of the pass, on the fourth
the obstacles of the mountain Pico di
Porco were surmounted, and on the
fifth the French were pouring like a
torrent over the plains of Saluzzo.

Baroelonette has 2200 Inhab., and a
very good /nn. Hotel du Nord, chez
Maurin. The town, on the rt. bank
of the Ubaye, shut in by mountains—
N. the Castebello, S. the Roche Pointue
— is better built than one would ex-
pect to find in a valley so sequestered.
In the principal street a fountain bears
a bronze bust of Ant. Manuel, the
orator of the Restoration.

It is chiefly inhabited by. the pro-
prietors of the Alps and pastur^es of
the valley. More than 100,000 she^
are pastured in its communes, which
come, during the summer, from the
vast plains of La Crau, in the neigh-
bourhood of Aries; these sheep are
driven into the most diflioult accessi-
]i)le pasturages of the Alps, often 20
day^ journey. Prom their wool
some coarse goods, consumed chiefly
by the inhabitants, are made; there is
much com also grown in the valley;
but for almost everything else they
»re indebted to i^trangfrs, |p other
valley s^ or ptl^^r cpuQ^ri^ii; it is pot
long thati (bf Qultivatipfi of potatoeg
j»i be«n practig^d amosg tbeift.

Thif viilley W9S kppwn %q ^ Rp-

m^i^h bvit Uttif pf lis blitofy 19 ^ ^

Tjli«a uppf), f ?cc#pt ip QpnneeUpa wHH
tnat «if |2mbran, which \^ bee^ bet^^

ter preserved. It is known that it
was subjected to irruptions by Saxons
and by Saracens, who made their waj
from Marseilles; these were defeated
by Charles Martel; under Charle-
magne France had the benefit of a
protecting government. In the sixth
century, a convent of Benedictines
established here did much to amelio-
rate the condition of the inhabitants
of the vallev; but all the wars in which
Provence nas been engaged have ex-
tended their horrors in this Talley,
and it was often liable to the irrup-
tions of the Saracens, particularly in
the 10th century. From the 14th
century it v^bs alternately subject to
Savoy or France. Amadeus conquered
it in 1388 $ it was re-attached to
Provence b^ Bene of Anjou in 1447;
it was agam taken by the duke of
Savoy, Charles m., in 1537. In the
middle of the 16th century the in-
habitants adopted the Beformed doc-
trines, but they were shorty after
either forced to abjure them or were
expelled their country.

Kapoleim cpntemjdated the con-
struction of a new road through the
valley of Baroelonette to pass the Col
d'Argenti^re and enter ^Hedmont, by
the Val de Stura. Since his abdica-
tion the idea seems to have been aban-
doned; but its benefits to 20,000
inhab. of the valley, by the greater
development of their energies and the
increased prosperity of l^rcelonette,
ought to have some weight with the
government of France.

There are many oommnnications
with the neighbouring valleys by
passes in the mountains; as with £m-
brun by the Col de la Yachere, with
Colmar and AIos (Bte. 168), and with
Nice by the valleys of the Tinea and
the Varo.

Soon after , leaving Barcelonette,
near the village of St Pons, the ruins
of a castle ana a ch. are seen in a fine
^ilfiatipii. The roads down the vaUey
of BiM^^f IpQette are in so wretghe^ t
llftt§. tbal ^6 wf^l of embanlcflai^itf
«9l908iB the ip^abi^ntS pf i^e y^
|9 the freqpe^l le§9 pf eo9|nmpi|»
tipg» ffpm tto i^siruptiv^ effppt^i i
th« torr^ftts, )^pt hf ^ow B•^

Pied^' ^ Savoy, rpute 168. — ^Dia^B to baroelonette.

477

celonette it is necessary to ford the
beds of the Bachelar, the Rio Bour-
don, and other torrents, for want of
bridges.

The first large yilli^ below Bar-

celonette is La Thuiles, and the next,

after crossing the Ubaye by a wooden

bridge, Meolans; thence down the

Tallej there is a tolerable char-road.

Amidst dreary and wild scenes, the

general character of the valley of Bar-

eelonette, there is, however, a striking

exception in a vUlage, beautifully

situated, called

Le Lauzet {Inn: Hotel de TEu-
rope), the Goshen of the valley.
It is agreeably wooded; near it is
a little lake which abounds in fine
trout, and in the immediate neigh-
bourhood are fruit-trees and a fertile
soil. A httle way, however, below
the village the scene changes again
to sterility. After crossing a ridge, a
series of tourniquets leads down the
pass of Xa Tour, or, as it is called,
the Chemm Eoyal, a part of the road
in the Talley admirably made; but,
unconnected as it is with the country
above or below by any road so good,
it is worthless.

Below these tourniquets the valley
offers some of its most wild and
grand scenes. On looking back from
Sie path carried along the brink of
the precipices high above the torrent,
the Ubaye is seen in its deep course
issning from the defile of La Tour,
and beyond, the grand forms of the
monntain of Qugulion des Trois
Eveques, which divides the vaUey of
Baroelonette from that of the Y ar,
the scene is one of savage dreari-
ness.

The road continues on the 1. bank
of the river high above its bed ; until,
leaving the side of the hill upon
which the fort of St. Vincent is

S laced, a very difficult path leads
own to the river, which is crossed to
arrive at the little village of Ubaye.

Erom this place, one road passes
down by the river to its connuence
with the Durance at La Brioule ; and
another, up the side of the mountain
to the Col de Pontis, which leads to
Saviiies ou the Durance, in the high*

road f^om Gap to Embrun, which is
distant from Savines 8 m.

Erom the ascent to the Col de
Fontis, on looking baclc towards the
valley of the Ubaye, the hill of St,
Vincent is a strikingly fine object,
surmounted by forts which formerly
guarded the entrance to the valley of
Baroelonette, when it was under the
dominion of Sardinia. By a wise ar-
rangement it was ceded to Erance, in
exchange for the valleys of Pragelas
,and Exilles, when the states of France
and Sardinia prudently agreed upon
the chain of tne high Alps as their
line of demarcation.

Embnm,
France.)

(See Handbook for

ROUTE 168.

DIGNE, IN THE VALLEY OF THE DU-
RANCE, TO BAUCELONETTE, BY COL-
HAR AND ALOS.

Instead of following the high road
to Gap, the route of the diligence, the
traveller who, from Marseilles and
Digne, would approach the Alps
sooner, may reach them by an inte-
resting line of route either on horse-
back or on foot, and pass through
scenes little known to English ram-
blers. From DignOf a valley of rather
Alpine character, and therefore wel-
come to the traveller, who is glad
to escape from the parched plains of
JFrance, leads by the village of Drays
to the Col du Tour, where there are
fine pasturages, and which is reached

478

ROUTE 168.— COLMAR AND AL08.

Sect. El

in 4^ krs. from Digne : thenoe a path
leads down through parched v^alieys,
rather resembling those of the north
of Spain than of France, to the Tillage
Chdteau Gamier, 7 hrs. from Digne,
where there is a poor inn, the only
resting-place. From Ch&teau Gar-
nier, the trayeller soon reaches the
ralley of the Verdon, and, in its ascent,
the interest increases to Colmar, a
very small fortified town, which com-
mands the entrance to a gorge, and
was, with Barcelonette, formerly in
possession of the Piedmontese govern-
ment It is still garrisoned, and its
gates are shut at 9 p.m. with as much
regularity as when it was a more im-
portant station. From Ch&teau Gar-
nier to Colmar is 3^ hrs. A little
above the town, in the valley, there is
a smiJl intermittent spring. StiU
nigher up the valley of the Verdon, 1^
hr. above Colmar, is the little town
of Alos, situate nearly 5000 ft. above
the level of the sea, m a high Alpine
valley, surrounded by lofty moun-
tains. The accommodations for tra-
vellers are poor, but the people very
obliging. The neighbourhood of
Alos is scarcely known to English
travellers, but it well deserves their
examinatdon, and an excursion should
be made to the Lac cTAloSy a dis-
tance of about 4 hours. The route
to it lies by the village of Champ
Richard. The lake is one of the
largest and most profound in the
French Alps, though it is situated at
the height of 7500 English feet. Its
form is almost circular, and its cir-
cumference is nearly 4 miles. The
Mcmt Peloy which rises from the side
of the lake, has an elevation of 10,500
feet, more than 3000 above the lake.
There is, perhaps, no spot in the
Alps more wild and sequestered than
the valley of this lake. The sur-
rounding mountains are covered with
snow and a few stunted pines, amidst
vast precipices and deep ravines.
Surrounding this retired lake are
some of the grand materials of this
most picturesque solitude. The lake
is remarkable for its outlet, which,
after a course under ground for
1500 feet, bursts into the valley,

and after foaming through a suc-{
cession of cascades meanders in gen*
tleness and beauty through pastn-
rages rich in vegetation. From
Alos to Barcelonette the route lies
up the valley of the Verdon, and after
passing the village of La Foax, and
crossing a stone bridge, the patli
to the Col de Peire, which divides the
valley of Verdon fit>m that of Barce-
lonette, this col is soon gained. It
is a fine pasturage to the sunmdt;
and from it a charming view is sud-
denly presented on lookin? up the
valley of the Ubaye. The descent to
Barcelonette from the col is exceed-
ingly romantic, leading down throusk
a valley of great TOldness ric^v
wooded. There is an excellent pata
down to the valley of the Ubaye, hot
the descent is steep and fatig^uing.
Barcelonentte may be reached on foot
in 7 hours from Alos. The Hotel da
Nord ^iffords good accommodation.
In descending from the col, the vaUey
of the torrent Bachelard opens on the
rt., flanked by grand precipioes*, it
leads to St. Dalmas le Sauvage, and
thence to St Etienne, in the valley
of the Tinea. From thence the tra-
veller may cross the Col de Mont
Fenche, or the Col di S, Anna, to the
Baths of Yenadio, in the valley of the
Stura, in Piedmont (Bte. 166).

• ^ Savoy. ROUTE 169. — ^babcelonette to brian^on. 479

de Vara, and the villages of Le Serrel
' and TEntraye ; this pass is an easy
one, and by it the distance from St.
Paul to Guillestre is little more than
5 hrs.

Above St Paul the valley narrows
again and continues like a ravine
until it expands into the communes
of Maurin, a common name given
to the three villages of Majasset, la
Barge, and Combremont. The village
of Majasset is about 4 hours* waSs
from the confluence of the Ubaye
and the Ubayette, and 6^ hrs. from
Barcelonette. At Majasset^ as it is
possible, it will be wise to sleep, and
a trusty guide should be engaged (the
services of the innkeeper Cressy may
be obtained in this capacity) to cross
the Col to St Veran. Near Maurin
they have begun to work serpentine
as ornamental stone, and between this
valley and that of the Guil serpentine
and diallage constantly occur. Three
or four passes across the great chain
of the Alps lead on the right from
this valley into Piedmont. 1, by
the Col de Maurm into the valley of
the Maira to Dronero ; 2, by the Col
de Lautaret and the Col de Malecoste to
Casteldelfino in the Yal de Yraita ;
and 3, by the eastern Col de Longet^
from the head of the valley of the
Ubaye to Ponte Chianale (seeKte. 1 65).
Majasset is the station of the French
douaniers, who have in this valley to
g^ard an extensive frontier by these
passes. A little above the last village
the traveller arrives at the small Lac
de Paroi, a piece of water which
evidently owes its origin to a stupen-
dous landslip from the western side
of the valley called the Costabella^
which, it is said, descended in the
13th century. On the margin of this
lake rye is cultivated, though it has
a very great elevation. Soon after
passing the lake and a series of cas-
cades, the valley is ascended steeply
for several miles by a wild and
dreary path, bounded by very lofty
peaks, and terminates in the patn
that leads by the Eastern Col de
Xionget, which extends over fine pas-
turages, at a great elevation, to a
very abrupt and magnificent descent

ROUTE 169.

BABCELONETTE TO BBIAN9ON, BY THE
VALLEY OF THE UBAYE AND ST.
VEBAN.

Besides the routes from the valley
of the Ubaye to Embrun by Barcelo-
nette, by the Col de Yacherie, and also
by the Col de Yars- and Guillestre,
there is another, by which the tra-
veller may reach the valley of the
Guil, and visit wild and sequestered
scenes in the neighbourhood of the
Monte Yiso; but the Cuisa, though
not quite impracticable for mules, is
only fit for a pedestrian; at least this
is the case witn the pass of the Col de
Lonset

Aoout 2^ hrs. above Barcelonette
lies the confluence of the Ubayette
and the Ubaye; the former leading
to the Col d'Ar^enti^re, the latter to
the Embmnnais by the valley of
Maurin.

The ascent of the Ubaye leads by a
deep ravine below the camp of Tour-
neaox, where the remains of redoubts
and intrenchments still mark the im-
portance of this frontier passage:
when tiie valley of Barcelonette be-
longed to Sardinia, this spot was the
scene of many struggles in the early
part of the 18th century. A mule
path, which leads high above the rt
bank of the river, passes above the
ravine and into the basin-shaped val-
ley of St. FauL Before reaching
the village of St Paul, the path which
leads by the Col de Yars to Guil-
lestre and Embrun winds up by the
deep ravines of the Rioumonas, a
torrent which descends from the Col

480

B0X7TE 169. — VALLEY OF THE UBATE. ST. VEEABT. Sect

into Piedmont. The p»th by the
western Col de Longet^ called some-
times the Col de Cula, is that which
leads to St. Veran; it ascends to the
left, and divides the valleys of Mau-
rin and St Yeran. The ascent is
quite pathless and often over patches
of snow; the crest has a g^eat
elevation— 10,345 English feet (?).
It is attained in 4 hours from
Majasset: the view from it is stu-
pendous ; on one hand towards
Monte Yiso, which appears quite
close, and on the other to the Dau-
phiny Alps, which are nowhere so
finely seen as. from this point
Scarcely a trace of vegetation is to
be seen on the summit. A very steep
descent leads, in 2^ hrs., to St veran,
a populous village, placed at the
great elevation of 6693 English feet
above the level of the sea, beine pro-
bably the highest village, with the
same amount of population, in Europe.
Around it barley and rye are culti-
vated ; the former to tne elevation
of nearly 7000 feet

St, Veran is situated m a remark-
ably verdant and well-watered valley
of the same name. Its appearance,
when seen for the first time, is extra-
ordinary ; for, instead of houses, it
seems to be a mass of space and scaf-
folding ; the houses are built entirely
of wood, except that sometimes they
rest on a basement of stone, which in-
closes the stable, a common but dirty
practice in the high villages of
the French Alps. Around the
houses they invariably construct
a sort of veranda or gallery, with
a roof projecting 6 or 8 feet, and
fitted up with the sort of scaffolding
which gives so odd an appearance, at
first sight, to the village i the purpose
of this scaffolding is to enable the
inhabitants to dry their ill-ripened
com under the shelter of the project*
ing roofs : their harvests generally
take place early in the autumn, before
the frosts set in, the seed having been
sown in Uie July of the preceding
yi^r. St Veran offers no accom-
modation whatever to travellers, un-
less the cure can be induced to afford

hospitality. The filthy habits of I
people are most offensive,
chiefly from their custom of lii
with the cattle in the stables, and
even among persons of property.

The Protestants are very numei
at St Yeran, consisting of tw<
four families ; a Protestant Church '.
lately been erected there ; but as
pastor, M. Ermann, who 8uccee<
Felix Neff, resides at La ChaJpe, the^
service is neither frequent nor regakr.

Here were occasionally exercised
the devoted services of Nef^ *'the
modem Apostle of the Alps." The
Protestant conununities of St. Yeran,
Foussillarde, Frassyni^re, Dormeil-
leuse, &c, some of these places hmg
above 40 m. apart from others, formed
the extensive district where he la>
boured in his ministry with a devo-
tion and energy to which his health
and life were at last sacrificed.

The Roman Catholic church of St
Yeran is situated near the highest
part of the long straggling Tillage.
On its wall is cut '* 1041 toises sur
la mer."

The house of the cure adjobing is
the only stone dwelling in the place.

From St Yeran an agreeable road
leads down the valley to QiMtroi, a
village which gives its name to the
district in the valley of the Guil,
and thence to Briangoa (Kbe. 162)
But if the object of the traveller be
to visit Abries and the upper rallej
of the GuH, he may attain them
through scenes of grander character
than those presented by the roDt<
through Queiras, and by a path 4 hrs.
shorter than that through the valley of
the GuH. In either case he sboold
not fail to notice a singular geolo*
gical fact near Pro, on the opposite
side of the torrent descending frois
St Yeran. The slopes hate been
covered ¥^th extremely hard blocks
of the diallage rock of tiie neighbooi^
hood. In one place these have rested
on a frial4e slaty limestone; thf
weather and melting snow have g^
dually washed the aoU irom sraa*
thes^ blocks, wliioh have served tfl
protection ta that immediftiely ^,
them, and thus pillars, not

id*- ^ Savoy. route 170.— beianqon to grbnoble.

481

thic pinnacles, which, in some
«s, have an elevation of 100 ft.,
re been left, with these boulders
their capitals, presenting an ex-
ordinary appearance, with an ob-
as origin. A similar geological
enomenon is presented in some
ber Yalleys of the French Alps,
td in the Tyrol at Ober-Botzen, not
t from Botzen, in the yailey of the

ROUTE 170.

*MA5^N OR MONT DAUPHIN TO GRE-
HOBU, BY VAIi LOUISE AND LA
BERASDE.

This work does not profess to give
a complete account of the French
'^ps, for which, indeed, the materials
scttoely exist; but it is sought in the
P'^wnt edition to direct farther atten-
tion to the magnificent scenery about
^€ Mont Pelvoux, the monarch of
*he western Alps. Nothing but the
^tterwant of decent accommodation
«w prevented travellers from giving
the attention which it deserves to a
p?Qp of snowy Alps ranking next in
J^t and importance to the Bernese
^berland. The only place where the
jwwt moderate degree of comfort can
J* expected is at Venos, which is
"»«aiTeniently distant from the higher
JJ't of the range ; elsewhere the
"^▼efler must in every sense be pre-
P*J^ to rough it.

The best mode of approaching the
%her peaks of the Pelvoux is by Val
i^ittw, on the S.E. side. The viUage
«wied VUle de Val Loinse, about 4 hrs.
«jna Brianpon, 1^ hr. by a rough
cuar-road from Abesse on the great

road to Gap, has a poor and dirty
Inn, with very rough quarters. The
village may also be reached in a char
in about 4 hrs. from Guillestre.

" The ascent of the Grand Pelvoux
may be made from Y al liouise. Pierre
Claude Semiond, guide, of Le Clos,
asserts that he reached the summit
with General Durand. He knows
the country well, but is an indifierent
mountaineer.*'

*' To gain the summit it is neces-
sary to pass the night under a rock
called the Cabane des Bergers de
Provence. The valley is ascended
at TAlefred, 2 J hrs. from the ViUe,
where milk, butter, and black bread
may be obtained. After ascending
the Combe de Sasseneire some little
distance, the traveller climbs up
the rocks on his rt, and reaches
the Cabane easily in 2 hrs. from
I'Alefred. This so-called Cabane,
between 7000 and 7500 ft. above
the sea, is by no means an agreeable
restingnplace. From thence it is
believed that the peak called Grand
Pelvoux may be easily reached in 6 to
8 hrs. But it is prdoable that this is
not the highest point in the group.
An attempted ascent by the writer
was defeated by bad weauier half-way
between the Cabane and the summit.

" In the Combe de Sasseneire below
the Cabane is the cave called the
* Balme Chapela,* where the Protest-
ants of Val liOuise were destroyed at
the time of the Yaudois persecutions."

Several passes, for the most part
very high and rather difficult, lead
from Yal Louise into the neighbour-
ing valleys. The principal of these
are — 1, the Col d*Argenttire, leading
to the vaUey of the Drac; 2, Col de
VEchauda to Monestier; 3, the Col de
la Tempe, leading to La Berarde, in
the valley of St. Christophe, over the
shoulder of the Mont Pelvoux, a high
and difficult pass. La Berarde may
also be reached from Yal Louise by
the Yal Godemar and the Col de Sais.

Professor Forbes has given an
account of his passage of the Col de
Sais. Like the last, it is merely a
hunter's pass, fit only for practised
mountaineers. He reckons 6^ hrs.

482

ROUTE 170. — BRIAN5ON TO GRENOBLE.

Sed

from La Berarde to reach the sum-
mit, oyer 10,000 feet above the sea.
La Berarde, the highest hamlet in the
v^lej of St. Christophe, contains a
very poor Irm, Besides those ahready
mentioned, seyeral other passes di-
verse from here. The only g^ide
well acquainted with the high moun-
tains around is the younger Bodier,
who makes unreasonable demands for
his services. About 4 hrs. below La

Berarde is Yenos, where there
very fair Inn^ the only one in]
district.

The scenery of the yalley of
Christophe is of the grandest
racter, and extremely well re
those who explore it. About 4
from Venos is Bourg d'Oysans
159). There is a pass from the
lage of St. Christophe to La 6:
by the Yal du Diable.

( 483 )

INDEX.

*♦* In order to fkcilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are repeated in the Index twice :
Uiua, Genkva to Chamouni is also mentioned under the head Chamouni ♦ to Geneva.
Such reversed Routes are marked in the Index with an asterisk to distinguish them.

AA.

^rfver,67, 108, 109

JJ. '.6, 151. SSource of, 99.

"laaers, 99
— . Wig of, 96
— .junction of, with Limmat

wdReuss, 17
Aaian,l6

i"5«g,8,l51
AttboTg, 13
Abbaye, 168

Abbondio,St..310
Abase, 481

^J^'^wce. col d'. 194
AbneolIa.S65 ,

7T-toCuneo,47l
Add^280,3l8
AJelboden, 129, 136

*5fP«u»,855
AdlnVyl, 47

HPontd',372, 417
^%i«chhoin,105. Excursions

nom, 106
Aemen, 205
Ae»ch,6

iW 81, 127
7»lten, 48

^8J«ix, Professor, hut of, 99 ;
«o>eumof, 153 ; on glaciers,

Ajnello, col del, 472
jsnes of Hungary, 17,28

Wf*'«'»315; village, 316
Apiculture, xlviii, liii^
;f 8^V. 143. 187
^ I5«ebelle. 438, 443
A'guebellette. 439
7r~» l«ke, 439
Aigneblanche, 449
aS?«»417. Chateau, S72
^"«f (Axwna), 450

^«1«B Bains, 43S

ALTORF.

Aiz les Bains to Lyons, 432

• to Geneva, 432

to Chambery, 435

Alagna, 830, 340

* to Varallo, 829

Athens, 437

Albert, emperor, murdered, 17

Albertville, 431, 443

Albinen, village of. 132

Albis, 34, 47

Albisbrunn, 48

Albrun pass, 205

Albula river, 256, 268, 270.

Paas, 271
Alby, 437
Alefred, 481
Alelsch glacier, 105
Aletschorn, 125, 134
Alevard, baths of, 443
Algaby, Gallerie d', 202
Air Acqua, 209
Allalein glacier, 336
pass, 337, 355

AUamans, 416

AUee Blanche, 408

Allemont, valley, 458

AUmagell, 336

AUues, valley, 455

Alma, 473

Alos, 478. Lac d', 478

Alp horn, xlviii, 91

Alpbach, 93

Alpe Veglia, 206

Alpensee, 224

Alpenstock, xxxiv

Alphubel, 337

Alpine travelling, dangers of,

XXXV

Alpinula, Julia, 150
Alpnach, 66. Lake of, 66.

»lide of, 66
Alps, panoramas of, xxxviii.

Near views of, xxxix. Roads

over, 1.

Alps of Piedmont and Savoy,

299
Alt St. Johann, 227
Altels, 130
Altorf, 114 :

AOSTA.

Altstetten, 48, 213, 224

Alveneu, 270

Amb^rieu, 1 64

Am Rett, 343

Ambin, mont, 447

Ambuhl, 110

Amden, 38

Amedeus VIII. of Savoy, 193

Ammertenthal, 126

Amphion, 194

Amsteg, 145

to Disentis, 249

Andeer, 258

to Casaccia, 262

Andelfingen, 28
An der I^nk, 136
Andermatt, 117
Andermatten, 208
Anet or Ins, 151
Angera, castle, 311
Angrogna, valley and village

of, 465
Annecy, 435

le Vieux, 437

, lake of, 437

Annemasse, 391 '
Anniviers, val de, 198, 360
Anselm, birthplace and grave,

371
Anterne, col de, 394

cbftlets,414

Antey, 358
Antigorio, val, 208
Autrona, val, 336
Anza, 330, 331
Anzasca, val, 330
Anzeindas, 196
AOSTA, 369

* to Turin, 366

• to Martigny, 876, 383

-^— * to Martigny by Uie val-
ley of Bagnes and col des
FenStres, 383

to Bourg St. Maurice,

425

to Evolena, 363

to Ponte, 417

— — to Lahslebourg, 427
Aosta,vaia', 373. 417

484

INDEX.

AOCTT.

Aoaet,3ft7

AprarsKLLOAirroM, 221. Vil-
lage, 227
AT»iwiisell* to St. Gall. 224
Aqnedaet, Roman, remains o^

Arbedo, 122

Arbon, 27

Are, Yalley, 442, 443, 453

Arehe, 1', 475

Ardeti, 275

Ardon, 192

Axvnenberg, 24

Arg«gno, 820

Aixentiere, 410, 475

~—'t col de, 475 ,

Argovie, 16

Arietta, col d', 419

Arly, valley of the, 431

Army in 8witierland, xllx

Amaod, Henry, 448

Amas, ocd d'. 454

Arnold ofBiipada at Zorich, 32

Aroletta, Croix de, 425

Arolla, 364

Arona, 198, 310

to Novara, 810

to Vaxallo, 393

Arpenai, Nant d', 392

ArpitetU, 360

Arth, 41 ; aacenc of the Bigl

flrom, 42
Arvan, val d*, 456
Arre, junction with the Rhone,

173

, valley of, 391, 393

Arveron, aoorce of the, 401

Arves, col d', 456

Arvier, 373

Aacona, .309

Attinghauaen, 109, 114

Aubin, St., 156

Aubonne, 178

Ane, 240

Auf der Flfih, eaatle of, 108

Auf der Fruth, 207

Anf der Platte, 358

Aafnan, isle of, 35

Augst,20

Augusta Proetoria, 371

Aulph, 194

AusBois, ool d', 455

Aavemier, 156, 161

AvAkANCHCS, Ixiii, 86, 98. 119

Avenches, 149

AvenQon, river, 195

Avent. 195, 197

Aventicnm, 149

Averole, val d', 454

Avena, val, 2(i2

Avril, mont, 387

Axen Strasse^ 64

Ayaa, val d', 345 ; village, 345

Ayent, 137

Ayer, 860

Baar, 40
Bach Alp, 90
Bachtel, 36

BATHS. I

Baden, 18

BSdermoos^ 140 I

Bagnes, valley and inandation,

384
Bile, 1-4
Balen, 387
Baltima, 315
Balliswyl. 144
Balfrin, 324, 333, 835
Balme, la, 38fi, 428

, col de, 402, 413

, Grotte de, 392 i

Balmaccia, 329

Balmvrand, 240

Balsine, 463 |

Bolters, 2x1

Banio, 338

Bazberine, cascade, 411

Barcelonette, 476

to Brian^n, 479

Bard, fort. 368
Bafdoneche, valley, 461
Barge, 470
Barnard, Geo., views of Swltier-

land, si
Barranca pass, 338
Barricades, pass of the, 474
Barthelemi, St., val, 369. <

Chalets, 453
Basel, 1-6

Baslx. I. Cathedral, 2. Coun-
cil of, 2. Dance of Death, 2. .

Collection of the works of I

Holbein, 3. Public library, I

8. University, 3. Rath- ,

haus, 4. History, 5. RaiU [

ways, 5. Environs, 5 |

Basle to Berne, by Uie Mun-

Bterthal, 6

by rail, 16

to Schaff haosen and Con-
stance. 19 I
to Soleure and Bienne^ by |

rail, 9
— to Lucerne, 12 i

to Zurich, 16

Basle Campagne, 5
Basseoourt, 9
Baths generally, 1
Baths—

Alevaid, 443

Alveneu, 270

Andeer, 258

Baden, 19

Bernardino, St., 266

Brida, 454

Qraveggia, 314

Crodo, 209

Fideris, 282

Gais, 223

Gervais, St., 393

Grange (Grenchen), 12

Gurnigel, 142

Heiariclisbad, 225

Lavey, 189

Leuk. 131

Martino. S„ 272

Monestier, 459

Moritz, Stl, 269

Morgin, 194

BKLUNZONA.

Batbs —

Nydelbad, 85

Peiden, 258

Pfeffers. 214

Pre 8t Didier, 873

Prese, le. 280

Reichenbaeh, 92

Rosenlaui. 92

Saxe, la, 374

Schintxnach, 16

Semens. 282

Stachelberg, 236

VenadiOk 474

Vincent, St.. 369

Weissenbnrg, \Z9
Bfetie, oaatle of la, 190. 443.

Village, 449
Battles—

Arbedo^ 122

Bodio, 181

Buttisholz, 15

Domach, 6

Grandson, 156

St. Jacob, 6, 12

Kappel, 48

Laupen. 144

Morat, 149

Morgarten, 230

Nafels, 234

Salabertrand. 461

Sempach, 14

Zurich. 29
Bears of Berne, 75
Baveno, 307
to the lake of Conw.

316

toVarallo, 826

Bayard, death of, 324

, chAtean, 448

Beatns, St., 79

Beaufort^ Maximo de, 407, 431

, valley of, 481

Bee de Bossons, 860

Beoca di Nona, 872

Beckenried, 62, 67

Beckbtock, 287

Beekwith, Gen., 464

Bedagio,3l6

Bedretto, val, 120, S09. Haa-

let. 210
Bel Air, 181

Alp, 107

Belgirate, 810
Bellaggio, 320
BelUluna, 870
BelUno^ 322
Bella Tola, 360
Bellaval, val de^ 407
Bellegarde. 164, 174
Bellelav, 2
Bel ten ve, 6
Belleville, val de, 46ft
Bellino, val di, 472
Bellotta, plain of, 423
Belvedere, mont, 489
BeiliHxwn^ 182
— > to Magadino or Loov*

to Lugano, by Mont i^

Here, 814

iin>£x.

485

Bfinuiffer, aiguille de, 406

S^ntide, la, 488

Mrfinal, 200

BergTin, 27o

Serisanentein past, 270

Serlingen, 24

Bernara, St.* aoooimt of 881 ;

birthplace, 4a7
BEBNAiin, St., Grxat, pass of,
376. Hospioe, 378. Morgue,
382

, LrTTLK, 429

Bernardino, St., paas, 264. Vil-
lage, 256
Bkbnk, 72. History of, 7«.
Foantains, 73. Clock, 73.
Bernese Alps, 74. Minster,

74. Museum, 74. Library,

75. Charitable Institutions,
75. Bandes Rathhaus, 75.
Bears, 75. Promenades, 77.

to Than. 78

to Lausanne (and Vevay),

by Frevburg, 144
— • to Lausanne, by Moraf:,
148

* to Lnceme, 71 , 72

— to Neuchfitel, 151
Bernese Oberland, the, 77
Benina pass, 276, 279. Alps,

276.
Bexsesio, 475

BeiUia, queen of Burgundy,
150

Berthler, Marshal, 156

Bertluiilet, the chemist, birth-
place o^ 436

Bosans, 454

Beae,457

Betu Pares, 346

Bettdmatt, 207

Bevaix. 156

B«v«8,274. Val, 271

B^enx. 195

Bex, 187

— -to Sion, by the Diable-
rets,195

Bitiiea,val, 331

Ben, Theodore, 172

Biases, 122

Biberbrucke, 228

Blbeiegg, 231

Bisd,l59

Biel,8

Bidls, 366

Bieii.425

Bienne, 8

— -• to Basle, 9

——to Berne, 9

to Neuch£tel, 155

toYverdun, 155

— , lake of, 155
Bietichhorn, 125
Bifertenbach, 237
Bifertenstock, 237
Bifnaseo, 208
Billiat, 164
Binnen, 205
Binnenthsl, 205
^iona, 363

BOCBGv

Bionnanay, glacier of, 406

Bionnay, 406 .

Bironico, 407

Birr, 18

Birg, valley of the, 6, 12.

Sonree of, 7
Bisbino, monte, 321
Bisi Thai, 238
Bissone, 315
Bivio, or Stalla, 268
Black Forest, 20
Blaise, St., 156
Blaitiere, glacier, 404
Blakenstock, 109
Blanc, mont, 402

, Uke, 447

Blankenburg castle, 140
Blegnu, val, 252
Hlinnen, valley, 205
Blonay, castle. 182
Blund'enz, 284

tolhe Frattigau, 284

Blumlis Alp, 124

Bobbio, 466

Booeareceio pass, 206

Bocke, 40

BodenSee,26

Bodio, 121

Bodmenalp, 224

Bodmer, castle, 281

Boghy, gorge of, 109

Boigiie, Gen. de, 441

Bois, 401

Bolegno, monte, 367

Boltigen, 140

Bonaparte, 368, 379, 382

Bonavaux, 417

Bondergrat, 129

Bonhomme, col du, 407

Bon Nant, cascade du, 393

Bonnet, 427

Bonneval, 424, 453

Bonneville, 391

BonUo, castle, 272

Bondoler, val, 206

Bonnivard, 185

Bonstetten, 48

Borca,332

Bordeau, 433, 435

Bergne, river, 364

Borgnone, 312

Borgomanero, 323

Borgo Sesia, 324

Bormio, 275, 279

Bomes, mont des, 435

Borromean islands, 307

Borromeo, San Carlo, statue,

311
Bosco del Rooo, 420
Bosses, 390
Boasons, glader, 394
Botanical Gardens : Beine, 73;

Geneva, 168; Zurich, 31
BStslingen, 114
Boudri, 15H
BoQgy, Signal de, 179
Boulciers. lz,8, 153,173
Bouquetina, Dent des, 864
Bourg d'Oysans, 458
..-—St, Maurice, 427, 480, 451

BDBGIX>Br. ,

Boarg Mont Genevre, 461
Bourget, lao du, 433
Bours, val di, 342
Bout du M<mde, 441
Bonvemier, 377
Bonveret, 194
Bovaresse, 160
Boxel, valley, 450, 454
Bozingen* 12 ■
Bramans Fort, 444
Bramois, 364
I Bramegg, pass, 71
Branchier, St., 377
Brand, 284
Bi'assus, le, I04
Braunegg, castle of, 18
Bregaglia, val, 261,271
Bregens, 27, 221

to Goire, 220

Breginier Ach, 221

Breithom. 354

Bremgarten, 9

Brenets, lac des, 163

Brenva glacier, 375

Breona, col de, 363

Bretaye, 144

Bretiege, 151

Breuil, 357

Breven, 401

Brevieres, 452

Brezon, mont, 391

Brian9on, 460

to Susa, by the Mont

Genevre, 460

to Fignerul, 462

to Grenoble, 481 .

Brida, ^54
Bridohre, 438
BrieK, 199
Brienz, 94

, lake of, 94

Brienzergrat, 94

Brigels, 242

Brissago, 310

Bristen, 249

Bristenstock, 65, 115

6rockedon, fFnu, quotations

from, 202, 380, 384, 408
Brothausi, 139
Broughton, grave of, 182
Broye, river, 151
Brugg, 16
Bruggen, 210,225
Bmnegghom, 359
Brnnehilde, queen, 162
Brnnlg, pass of, 65
Brunnen, 62
Brusio, 280
Brussone, 345
Bucdaletto, 338
Bnceione, S£3, 328
Buet, 404
Buffalora pass, 275
Bukten, 18
BuUe, 148
Bomplitz, 144
Buntachi, 139
Buochs. 67. Gulf of, 62
Burckbardt, birthplace, 4
Burgdorf, )d

488

INDEX.

.1X)NG0.

Dongo, 8)9

DSrfli, 283

DorUt, gorge, 441

Doroaeh, battle of, 6

Doron, valley, 450, 454

Douba, river. 158. Sant. 158

Donvaine, 193

Doveria, S02

Drae, river, 457

Dragonata, torrent, SI 9

Drance, torrent, 419

Dranae valley, 377. Inunda-
tion of, 384

river (in Chablais), 190,

194

Drays, 477

Dreiiehutenhom, 858

Dm, aignille de, 398

Diibradorf. 36

Duggia, val, 324 <

Dundengrat, 127

Duing, ^&tean, 437

Durance, valley, 460, 477

Doma-thal, 24S

Dumten, 36

Diirrenboden, 275

Eau Mort8, valley, 437
Eau Noire, 402, 411
E1)«l, grave of, 31
Ehenaip, 225
Eblhom, 354
Eblkon, 48
Ebnat, 227

Ebrodunnm, site of, 157
Echellea, les, 438
Eck, 109

EcluM,!*, fort. 174
Eginenthal, 207
Egeri, 40. Lake, 40, 230
^na, col d', 339
Eigen, 238
Eigher, great, 88
— — > Klein, 88
Einflaeh-thal, 198, 359
Einsiedeln abbey, 228
Einapanner, xxiii
Electric telegraph, xviii
Elgg, 210
Elm, 243

to Pfefferi» 243

to Flims, 243

Elva, col di, 472. Village, 472
Embrun, 477
Emetten, 62
Emme, river, 8, 15, 72
Emmenbriicke, 15
Emmeuthal, 71
Enclaves, rocks, 481
Bngadine described, 273
Enge, peninsula, 8
Engelberg, 108

to Altorf, 108

Engelhorner, 92

Enghe, 77

Enghi, 243

English war, and bairowt 14

Engstlen Alp, 111

FEBNIOEN.

Enneda, 235

Kntlebnch, 71

Entre-deax-Eaux, 452

Entreves, val d', 873

Entremont, val d*, 877

Erasmus's grave and tomb-
stone, 2. Residence, 4

Ergolz, river, 12, 20

Erlach. and castle of, 152, 155

, von, 8, 15

Erlenbach, 97, 139

Emi (Arnold), 63. Birthplaoe,
70

Erin, col d', 364

, val, 364

Etatfeld, 109

Ersingen, 20

BKher von der LInth, his a^ve,
31. His works on the Linth
and lake of Wallenstadt, 36.
Monumental tablet to, 37

EschoUmatt, 71

Esel,53

Esine, 323

Esseillon, Fort 1', 444

Etishom, 105. Excursions
ftom, 106

Etivaz. val. 142

Etroublea, 383

Etael, mont, 227

Ev^che. l',6

Evian, 194

Evionai, 189, 195

Evolena, 362, 364

to Zermatt, 864

• to Aosta. 368

* to St. Nk:holas,358

• to St. Luc, 862

Exilles, valley and village, 461

Eili-thal, 249

Faldo, 121
Fain, val de, 277
FalkniSB.2M,2l6, 281
Farel, the Reformer, 171
Fariolo, 307
Fatach, 240
Fatsehhaeh falls, 236
Faucigny, 391
Faulhom, 90
Faveiwes, 437
Fee gkder, 336

valley and hamlet, 336 .

Feistenberg, 264

Feldbach, 24

Feldkirch, 221

Fellenbei^, M., 9

Felsenegff. 40

FenestreUes, village and fort,

462
FenStre, col de la, 389
FenStres, col des, 387 '
Fenis, castle, 369. Valley, 420
Fer-lt-cheval, 415
Ferden, 134
Fermel-thal, 136
Femey, 174
Femigen, 110

FerpSde glader, 365

Ferrera, 38M

Ferret, or Ferrex, col. 368

Ferri^, 446

Pervento, 338

Fdte des VigneroBs. 183

Feuillette, Croix de, 45 1

Fideris hatha, 282

Fier, river. 436

Filar, 332

Filiaz, 396

Filisur. 270

Findelen glacier, 355

Finhaut,412

Pinster Aarhom, 88, 89

Aaraehlucht, 96

Aar glader, 99

Finstermiinz paaa, 273, 87i
Fioza, 65, 113
Flrn, meaning of^ Ivi
Pishing, 6,24, ]86
Fitxnau, 44. Ajoent of

Rigi from, 44
Flamatts, 144
Plasehberg, 216
Flaine, lac de, 415
Flawyl,210
Fleg«re, 400
Pletachhom, 337
Fleurier, 160
Films, 244, 246
Flimaer Ffra, 244
Floods, Ixvi
Flowers, Alpine, li
Flue, Nicolas von der, 67, 68.

His grave, 69. Hia letveat,

70
Fluela pass, 283
Fliielen, 65, 113

to Bellinzona, 1 12

Flumaer paaa, 236

Flumet, 431

Foax. la, 478

Fobello, 329. 338

Fohn (wind), lix, 235

Foi, Ste., 427

Folie, 388

Ponds, 415

Fontana, hia birthplace, 315

Fontooaverte, 456

Poppa, 217

Foppiano, gorge of, 208

Forbes, Professor, $ 16

Fordaa, 144

, col de la, 393, 411

St. Gervaia, 405

Forcletto, Fte de U. 359

Poroola paaa, 268

Formaisa valley, 207

Fa!mel,426,45S

Fomo, 828

Foron, mont, 430

Four, rol du, 407

Pour Gantona, lake of the, ^

Franeia I., 473, 475

Praaainone Adl, 202

Frauenfeld. 83

Frauenkirdie, 283

Freanx, la, 459

FHjoM, ool de^ 444

INDEX.

489

ntBNET.

GLARNISOH.

6K&NZA0U.

renety 457

Museums, 1 67, 1 68. Library,

Olarus, 235. Conflagration in

c^tes, cliaine des, 415

168. Botanic Garden, 168.

1861, 235

r^ty* mont, 376

Illustrious natives, 168.

• to Wesen, 284

readen'beig, SI 2

Manufactures, 168. Ck>n'

to SUehelberg hatha, 236

RXYBURO, 144. Suspension

veyances, 169. Physicians
and shop-keepers, 170. His-

to Reicbenau, 243

'bridg^es, 14&, 146. Canton of,

to liana, 244

146

tory, 170. Tlie Reformation

* to Schwytz, by the Klon-

Medriclisliafen, 27

in, 171. The Escalade, 171.

thaland Muotta,231

^beniofl^ 4

Rousseau, 172. Environs, 172

, valJey of, 36, 234

frohburif, 13

Geneva, lake of, 1 76

, canton, 234

^thvald, SOS

Geneva* to Macon, 164

Glatt-thal, 28, 36, 210

?rQtigen» 128

to Martigny, by Thonon,

Glenner. valley, 263

Fnrca, pass of, 100

193

Gleresse, 155

Horn, 101

to Villeneuve, by Lau-

Gletscher Alp, 337

FuTce Kien, or Seefinen Thai,

sanne, 176

Gliere, la, 456

126

to Chambery, by Aix, 432

Glion, 184

Pnicala pass, 862

to Lyons, 432

Glys, 199

Tnrgtre Thai, 837

— - to Chamoani, 390

Gnifetti, M., 340

Fnrst, Walter, 63, 114

to Aiguebelle and An-

Goitre, Ixvii, 372

Fortwanf, 102
Vnaeli, Henry. 31

necy, 435

Goldau, 42, 55. Ascent of the

Oenewe, mont, 460

Uigi fh>m, 42

Poflio. 314

Gentel-thal, HI

Gold-mines, 202, 331

'George, St., abbey, 23

Goletta, col de, 452

George's, St., 164

GoUze, col de, 194, 416

Germain, castle, 868

Gondo gorge. 202
gallery, 202

, St., 430

Gabelhom, 354

Germanasca, val, 463

village. 202

Gabiet See, 341

Germano, St., 464

Gonzen, 39

G'&hris, 223

Gersau, 62. Ascent of the

Gorges, Alpine, xlii

Gadmen, 96, 110

Rigifrom,44

Gorgier, St. Aubin, 156

Gadmenthal, 110

Gera, lac de, 415

Gomer glacier, 349

to Grimsel, 102

Gervais. St., baths, 393

Grat, 349

Oua,Nratering-plaee, 223

Gessler's castle, 54. Death, 55,

Vispach, 387

Galandaberg, 216

GSschenen, 103, 115

Galenstoek, 102

Gessner, the poet, birthplace

Gothard St, pass qf, 112.

Galeae, col de. 424

of, 32

Hospice of, 119

Galgenen,37

, naturalist, birthplace of.

Gotteron, river, 144. Gorge of.

Gall, St., 210. Manufiustnres,

146

211. Tradition an d history.

Gessonay, 138, 140

Gottlieben, castle of, 24

211. Cathedral, 211. Monas-

Gestad, 66

Gouille. cascade, 415

tery, 212. Library, 212
to Gaia and Appenzell,

Gestig-thal, 138

Grafenort, 108

Getros glacier, 384

Gnffeneire, 384

281

Giacomo, San, 206, 266, 342

Graggi, 102

■ — -to Hexisaa and Uznach,

, gorge of, 260

Gran Rioburent, 472

285

Gibbon, 181

Grand Coluret, 428

•toZttridi, 210

Giebel-thal, 206

Grand Combin, 374

<^UQpel, 134

Giessbach falls, 95

Grand Paradia, 3d7, 419

Gamachiliicke, 124

GiftVe, torrent, 391

Grand Pelvoux, 381

Otmaen, torrent, 199

Gignod, 883

Grand Plateau, 404

Giinsbnmnen, 7

Gilly, Dr., 465

Grand Vallon, 447

Ganther, 200

Gingough, St., 182, 194

Grand Vant, 148

Gudaval, castle, 275

Giomico (Imis), 121

Grande Casse, 455

Gardona, 261

Gioux, 425

Grande Croix, 445

Garibaldi, 309, 316

Giovanni, St., 464

Grande Motte, 452

Gaiteien,129

Gisli-Fluh, 16

Grands Mulcts, 403

Gaateren-thal, 125, 129

Gite, la, valley, 431

Grandson, 156. Battle of, 156

Gandenzio Ferrari, 824, 867

Glaoiibr8,1v. Extent, Ivi. In-

Grandval, 7

Gaoli glacier, 108

crease and diminution, Ivi.

Grange baths, 12

Oant, 458

Movement, Ivii, Ixi. Cre-

Grato, 341

Geaat, col du, 373, 376, 404

vasses, Iviii. Colour,lix. Mo-

Graubunden, 219, 2

" — , glacier d a, 898

raines, lix. Melting, Ixii.

Grauhaupt,343

Odssbers. 109

of Grindelwald, 88, 89, 90

Grauehorner, 217

Oeiie, mont, 887

of Rosenlaui, 92

Grave, la, 459

Ommi, pass of, 127

of the Aar, 99

Gravellona, 807

Gemststock, 287

•— of the Rhone, 100

Greina, 253 ^

Gemstein, 341

of the .£ggi8chhom, 105

Grenier, mont, 442

GeneroKO, monte, 315

Glacier galleries, 2oi

Grenchen, 12

GiMxvA. 164. Situation and

GUne, 147

Grenoble to Brian^on, 457,

appearance, 165. Plan of the

Glaria, 288

481

town, 166. Oathedral, 16Y.

GUtmisch mountain, 283

Grenzach, 20

490

INDEX.

GBESSAU.

6re«aa, 417
Gressonay, 339

* to Ala^na, 348

to Cbfttillon, 345

Grey, Lady Jane, letters of,

31
Grey Ijeufne, 819, 847
Oresy, 433
Gries, pan of, 807
Grigna, 388
Grimmi pass, 135
Oriwuel, hospice of the, 97.
Pau of, 96. Skirmish of,
98. limes to or from, 101

to Hospenthal, 100

to the iEgj|;ischhom, 103

-— — to Meyrineen, 103 i
toBrieg. 104

Griudelwald, 88

, ffUeiers of. 89, 90

— — , lower glacier, visit to, 89

to Meyringen, by the

Great Scheideck, 92

to Grimsel, 101

Grion, 188, 196

Griaanche, val, 374, 425

Grisonb, lani(uage of, 219.
History and government of,
219, 247

Grivola. pic de la. 419

Groscavallo, 454

Grotte des Fees, 163

Gruben, 359

Grntli, or Rutli, 63

Gruyeres, cagtle, 141. Counts
of, 141. Cheese, 141

Grynau, castle of, 36

Ospaltenhorn, 126

Gsteig, 81, 137, 138

Gudin, General, 98, 113

Gaggli, 349

Guides in Switzerland, xxv.
At Chamouni,396. In Pied-
mont and Savoy, 302. At
Zermatt, 348

Guiers Vif, torrent. 438

Guil, the, 466,468

Guillestre, 467

Guisanne, valley, 459

Gumihom, 81

Gttminen, 148

Gare, la, 452

Gurecmittlerbach, 110

Gurf, 808

Gurnigel, 142

Guttanen, 96

Gyswyl, 69

Haag, 827

Hababurg, castle of, 18. Nea,

casde of, 54, 61
Hacken, 830
Hahnenberg* 109
Hahnenmooe, 129, 136
Haldenstein, castle, 217
Hameaa da Glacier, 407
Hammerlin, birthplace of, 88
Bandek, faUs of the Aar, 96

HUTTEN.

HoimSmWs route over the Alps,

428, 429, 430
Harder, 81

Hasli, or Meyringen, 93
Haud^res, 365
Hanenstein, Unter, 13
Hansen, 48
HautdeCry, 191
Haute Combe, 433
Hauts Genevevs, 158
Haotville Ch£'teaa, 183
Heiden, 283
Heights of mountams, lakes,

and paases, $ 19, Ixix
Heiligenkreutz, hamlet and

vallev, 205
Heinrichsbad, 225
Helleplatte, 96
Henniez, Idl
Herbag^es, 413
Her^mence, val and village,

364
Herens, val d', 364
Hergiswyl, 53
Heii, 431
Herisau, 226
Herrenreuti, 109
Herzogenbuchsee, 9, 15
Hindelbank, 15
Hinter Rhein thai, 242, 246,
^ 265. Village, 265
History, xlv
' Hochhom, 134

Hochste Spitze, 353 I

HochsttLckli, 230
Hochthaligrat, 349
Hof, 103

Hofwyl agricultural institu-
tion, 9
Holienkasten. 213, 225
Hohenklingen, castle of, 23
Hohenrain, 26
HohenSax, 213
Hohentwiel, 23
Hohes Licht, 343
Holbein — collection of his
drawings at Basle, 3. Anec-
dotes of, 3
Hollow Way, 54
Homburg, castle of, 13
Hftpital. 431
Horgen, 35, 40
H5mli, 350

Horses and mules in Switzer-
land, xxvii
Hospice air Acqua, 209
Hospital, or Hospenthal, 101,

118
Hugi, Professor, hut of, 99
Hundsalp. 110
Hundswyler Tobel, 286
Hunenberg, Henry von, 41
Huningen, 5
Hunnenflue, 82
Husbandry, Swiss, xlviii

, school for practical, 9

Huss, John, his prison, 83, 84,

25
Hntten, Ulric, burial-place, 35

IVROGNE.

Ibach, 60, 232
Iherg, castle, 226
Iffigeu, 136
IfBgenbach, 136
Iffigen-thal. 136
Ilanz,846

toOlivone, 253

* to Spliigen, 263

Ilflsriver,7l

Illiez, val d', 194,195,407

Im-Abschwung, 99

Im-Boden, 96

Im-Gmnd, 96

Im-Hof, 96

Im-Loch, 207

Im menace, 41, 55. Ascent of

the Rigi from, 43
Im-Saas, 103
Im-Selden, 126
Imseng, Herr, 336, 355
Ill-see, 360
Inden, 133
Infemet, 458
Ingria, 420
Inn, valley of, 273

river, 262, 269, 272

Inns of Switzvland, aviii.
Charges in, xxx.

of Piedmont and Savoy,

301
Ins, 151

Intelvi, val, 380
Intebi^aksn, 80

to Latiterbmnnen, 9'i

•to Thun, 79

^— to Brienz, 94

to Sion ot Sierre, 13^

Int8chi,115
Intra, 810
Intragna, 312
I Introbbio, 388

Inundations of the—
I Alpbaeh, 93
I Dranse, 190
Emme, 72
liauibach, 69 .'
Linth, 36
Val de Bagnes,384

Irnis. 181

Iron-mines of Val de CogiKi
, 418
, Isella, 803
> Isenthal, valley o^ 65

Iseran, col d', 453

Isire, vaUey of, 427, 443, Hi

Isles, left, 410
I Isola Bella. 308
, Madre, 309

di San Giolio, 327

Isolaccia. 880
! Issert. S88
I Italy, approach to, 803
, Itznang, 24
j Ivoune, 175
I Ivrea, 367

Ivrogne, 373, 486

JACiOB.

acob, St., battle of, 0, 18

■man. Ml

Fvdin, le, S98

haehli paM, 71 , 108

rran. 140. Valley, 140

luer Alp, 244

Ini, Cima de, 388, 358

]eu de Haarienne, St., 443

— d*Arve«,St., 4S6

Jenatz, 282

leoiie, St., 410

J«n)me of Prague, bis priaon,

Jetuits»14(l

Joch, paaa of the, 109, 110
Jolimont, 151, 156
Jon, eol de, 845
Jont,l&i,l81

Joax, ehitean de. 160. Lae
de, 163. Golonne de, 429

Jooxplane, col de, 194, 407,416

JoTeneaa, 417

]evet,mont,868,406

Jafl;{62

Jnlien, St., 435

/i/Mrpou, 268

Junj{,858

Jungfnu, 87

Jupiter, pUin of, 881
''««"»,«, 153, 156
r-»«Jley, 18
Jitttis-th«l,80

Wen. 283
{Aentohl. 69

f^feoser-thal, 817
{Wtwawr, glacier, 201
{«n»Qra, 253

^0',213,a25

}"J«. river, 78, 128,136

{wdenteg, 129

SH48. Battle o^ 48

J«Boinethal,23

*«»luraulB,24l

{^2i5

*«rbichi, 807

{«o, marshal, 1ft6

t2l!^«. John, grave of, 181
^•''nienberg, 2S5
J*ni,68

fnw«len-thal, 115
5.'«>lioh, 94
gwthal, 127, 128

gn«'gKulm, 113,238
^'Ppel, 126, 134

J;jt.Kaade,rteg,l33

f^«n«»t, 248
*»!«enpM,,240

INDEX.

LAUSANNE.

Rleinthal, 248

Klimsenhorn, 53

Klonaee, 233

Klonthal, 833

Kloster*, 282

Klua, 115, 140,281

Knapsack, xxxiv

Knox, John, 171

Koepfnach, 36

Koninfelden, 17

KonolQngen, 72

Kosciusko, 10

Krachenthal, 115

Krauchthal, 243

Kray Alp. 225

Kreutzboden, 138

KreuzH pass, 249

Kreuzlingen, 26

Krieg Alp, 205

Kriens, 52

Kries; 340 . ,

Krisiloch, 53 *

KublLs, 282

K umbels, 253

Kunkels pass, 217

Kurflir«ten, 38

Kurs,!

Kiisanacht, 34, 54. Ascent of

the Rigi from, 4»
Kyburg, castle of, 28

Laaz,107

Lac, col du, 426

Lachen. 37, 227

Ladders, Leitern, 132

Lake dwellings, remains of, 31 1

Lakfs of Switzerland, xl.

Heights of, Ixix
Landenbeig, 68
Landeron, 156
Land(^uart, 217, 218, 283
lAndri, 451

Langhana, Mad., monument, 1 5
Langnau, 71
Langwiesen, 282
Lanslebonrg, 444

* to Chambery, 449

* to Montiers, 454

Lans le Villard, 454 ^

Lanuda, 281

Latelhorn, 3SS

Latrobe, 139, 161

Lattenbaeh, 135

Laubeck, castle and gorge, 140

Lauberhorn, 87

Lauenen, 139

to Gsteig, 137

Lanfelflnuen, 13
Laufen, castle of, 21, 28
Lauffenbuig, 20
Lauffen, 6

Lauibach torrent, 69
Laapen, battle of, 144
Lausanni, 179. Cathedral,

180. Castle, 180. Museum,

180. Honse of Gibbon, 181.

Neighbourhood, 181 |

491

LIESTAL.

Lattsawnb to Villenenve, by

Vevay, 181

• to Prey burg, 147

• to Berne, by Morat, 148

• to Geneva, 176

• to Y Verdun, 155

Lautaret, col de, 459

Lantevaar glacier, 99, 103

Lauteraarsattel, 103

Lauterbrunnen, 83

— ^, upper valley of, 84

— > toGrindelwald, 85

-^— to Kippel or Kandersteg,

by the Tschiugel, 123
-^— to Kandersteg, by the S>ee»

finen Furkeand Diindengrat,

126
Lauzet, 477
Laval, 453
Lavanrh6, 401
Lavater, birthplace of, 29, 38.

At Uber-Rieden, 35. Death

of, 31
Lavaux, 183
Laveno, SIO
Lavey bath, 189
Lavin, 275
Lavizzara, val, 314
Lead-mines, 451, 459
Lebendue, lake and valley, 205
Leoourbe, General, 63, 109*, 1 13,

116,266
Lecco,318
— , lago A\, 328
Lechaud, glacier de^ 398
Lecherette, 142
Legnone^ monte, 328
Leisse, col de, 452
Leitern, 132

Leman, lake, 176, 182, 183
Lemie, 421
Lenk, 136

to Lauenen, 137

Lens, mont, 458
Lenta, river, 470
Lenz, 268, 270
Lepin, 439

Lfi^ 3 1 0

Leikk, baths of, 131. Village

of, 133
Levanna, 423
Leventina, val, 120
Leysse, village and river, 441
Libraries^

Basle, 3

Berne, "6

Chambery, 441

Coire,218

Engelberg, 108

St. Gall, 212

Geneva, 168

Neuchfttel, 153

Schaffliausen, 23

Zofingen, 13

Zurich, 31
Lichtensteig, 226
Lichtenstein, 221
Liddes, 377

LiftiUl, l-i. Slaughter of the
. men of fiasle at, 18

2 A

492

INDBX

LIMERN.

Limem Alp, 242

Limmat river, 17, 29

Linard, I'iz, 281

Lindau, 27

linth, valley of, 234, 236.
River, 34, 30, 234

-^^ Colony, 37

Lioson, lake, 142

Lira, 260

Liserne, 1«2. 197

Livtj^no, valley and village,
275, 279

Locana, 422

Xocrtmo, SI 3

Lochliberg, 264

Locle, 159

L«&(he, 131, 133

L^fTelhorn. 104

LoK-s, col des, 158

Lonnkutscher, SMriat, xxii

Loison, Gen., 110, 113, 116

Lomhardore, 421

Lona, i*as de, 362

Lonj^et, col de, 472, 479

Lonza, river, 134

Loree, river, 48

Lostallo, 267

LStKhsSttel, 204

LStschberg, 134

Lotschtlial, 125, 134

Louia- Philippe, 254

Louise, valley and village^ 481

Lourtier, 384

Lowertt, 58

Luc, St., 359

, to Evolena, 362

Lucendro. lake, 119

Lucens, 151

LnoRRtf E, 48. Plan of the town,
49. Bridges^ 50. Arsonal,
30. Thorwaldsen's Lion, 52.
Steamer^ 52. Lake, 52.
Hketch-map, 51. Mount Pi-
late, 53

^— to Schwvts, 54

to KlUiflen, 60

—— to Meyringen or Brienx,65

— — to Berne, by the Entle-
bach, 7 1

—— to Berne, by railway, 72

— — lake of, 60

Ludlow, grave of, 182

Lugano, 316

——to Como, 816

—, lake of, 318

Luggage, xxii

Lugnetx-tlial, 253, 264

Lurni, lake, 273

Luino, 316

— — to Menaggio, 816

Lnkmanier pass, 251

Luner See, 2ti4

Lungem, lake of, 69. Drain-
ing of, 69

, village of, 69

Lnnghino, monte, 262, 273

Luaema, valley, 464

Luagen Alp,. 107

Lutachinp, river, 83

Laxienateig, 216

MARTIQNY.

Lvona, or Macon, to Geneva,
'(rail), 164

to Geneva, 432

to Aix, 432

to Chambery, 438

Lys Blanche, col die la, 427
Lys-thal, 342, 345, 3b7

glacier, 342

Lyn, 8, 151

Macagno, 310
Macdonald, Marshal, 259
Macot lead-mines, 450
Maciignaga, 332. Excnrslona

from, 332

to Visp and Saas, 334

to Gressnnay, 339

Maddalena, col della, 475

Maderan valley, U5, 237, 249

Madessimo, 260

Madrano, 2Jl

Madulein. 274

Maijadino, 312

Magdalene, St., grotto, 147

Mage. 364

Maggia, val, 313, 314

Mnggiore^ lake^ 309 , 314

Magiandone, 307

MagUn, 392

Magnin, 413

Maigne, col de, 864

Maira, source of, 263. Vale of,

321. 472

valley, 261

Maistre, Comte le, birthplace,

441
Majaseet, 479
Maiolica, la, 318. 319
Majoria, castle, 192
Maladers, 282
Malans,28l
Malaure, col de, 416
Malleray, 7
Mai lone, river, 421
Maloggia or Maloya pass, 272
Mai vat, Combe de, 4i>8
Mandello, 323
Maneille, 463
Maps, xxxii, 304
Marat, birthplace, 156
Marcel, St., 369, 450, 463. Val,

418
Margarethen, St., 213
Margoxsolo, monte, 309
Marguerite, St., 456
Maria. Sta., pas«, 251
Maria Maggiore, Sta., 31 1
Maria xum Schnee, 42, 368
Marjelen, lake, 105, 106
Martigny, 190

to Aosta, 376, 383

• to Geneva, by Thonon,

193
— to Conrmayeur, by the

Col Ferrex, 388

MEYBINQEir.

Martigny to Counna\ear,

the Col de la Frnfttre, 389
, by the Col de

rena,389
— — to Chamouni, by the!

deBalme, 412
— • to Chamouni, by Tek|

Noire, 410
Martin, St., 344, 392, 417

to Chamouny, 393

, val de, 4«3 "

Martinet, glacier of, 189
Martino, S., 272
Martinstamek, 276
Martinadruck, 89
Martinsloch, 89, 244
Masino, val, 272
Ma»ox, 266
Massa torrent, 105
Massena, 48. 98. 113,238
Mastalone, val, 329, 33ti
Matt, 243
Matten, 1S6
Matterhom, 348
Matti-thal, 206
Mattmarkaee, 336
Manpas, 41 1
Maupertuis* tomb, 6
Maurice, St., in Savov, 427, m,

443, 451

• to the Col do Wont, 427

* to CourmtTeur, by tiie

Little St. Mernaxd, 426

in the Valais, 189

Maurienne, 442

to Bo<i^ d'Oytwii, 454

Maurin, 479

Mayen, 110

Mayenfeld, 217

Maven-Reuss, 110

Mayenthal, 110, 115

Mayeuwand, 99

Maxure, 427

Masxucone, m<mte, 329

Measures, xvi

Medelser-thHl, 251

Meji^ve, 430

Meggenhom, 61

Megfisalp, 225

Megorxo, lake, 310

Meiden, hamlet, 359. Ptas,«»

Meilen, 35

Meillerie rocks, 182, 194

Meinau, island of, 26

Melchsee, 7 1

Melchthal, 70

Mela, 39, 243

Melezio torrent, 812

Melide, 315

Menaggio, 318

Mendrisio, 315

Menthon, 437

M^lans, 477

Mer de Glace, 397, 401

Mergoxao lake, 307

Mesmer, birthplace, 24

Mettelhorn, 354

Mettenberg, 8!i, 90

Meyringen, 93

to Interlaken, 94

INDEX.

493

METRISGES,

ir«yriiigen to Hospenthal. 9)
-— toAVasen, lo9
^to EngeUwrg, 116
Heyronne, 475
tezzola, la^. 321
Jiaije glacierl 409
iljichel, St, 443
Mieville, ]»0
Minidunum, lA!
Uiolans castle. 442
KinboQc (brt, 466
Miribi, 364

Jjirhabelhorner, 337, 348
jMoeoo, village and valley, 266
*Min«, 457
Jod«ne, 443
'H414

Moesa river, 122. Source of,

266

■p, Wis of the. 266
Jowola, lake, 266
JJoine, aiguille dn, 398
tfolaiet, 446

J(6le,mont,39J. 416

IJolesoQ, 141, 142

Molina, i^

Mollis, 324

jBlIii,234

Jjtnwo, 320

«wch, 87

Jondisattel, 105, 106

Jonestjer, baths of, 459

JJonetier, 173

**o>»y, Swiss, xvi

--of Piedmont, 303

Monks, 108, 201, 378

Jlons Anjelonira, 108

*o»tBuxc, 399

*-> Tonr of, 403

Jont.coldu, 427

«ont Danphin, 467

— •toPignerol, 464

—- to Grenoble, 481

■ODfjoie, 372

r-. val, 393, 405

JontJoli, 406, 430

J"»f«, la, 467

Jonttlto, castle, 36t

Montanvert, 397

^ontng, 264

Jonihenon, 181

JOQtbovon, 141

JonTE Ro8A, 332, 340, 358

JoDterone, mont, 309, 327

[ontets, lea, 394

[onthev, 195

ontmelion, 442

mtbeax, valley, 438

onfmirail, 158

lontreox, 182, 184

ontriond, 194

raviao, 471

(Runes, lix

n«t, 207

rat (Marten), 148. Battle

f, 149. Lake of, 149

rclea, Dent de, 188

rgarten, battle of, 230

rye, river, 138, 197

rgen, 881

MTTHENBERQ.

Morgenherig, 81

Merges, 179

Morgin, 194, 195

Morill, 107

Morit£, St., 269

Momex, 178

Moro, monte, 334

Morone, 315

Mortiratach glacier, 277

M or sine, 194

Mosehelhorn, 265

Mosses, les, 1 48

Motet, chalets of, 408

Motiers Travers, 160

Motterone, monte, 309

Moud, cul di, 34 1

Moiidon (Milden). 151

Moulins, I4U, :^99, 416

Mountains, heights of, Ixix

Moatiers Grandval, 7

1 val, 6, 7

Tarentaiae, 449. Salt-
works, 450

Muggiot val, 316

Mtthlehorn, 38

Mtthlestalden, 108

Milhlmen, 82, 128

Mules, xxvii, 302

MUUheim, 33

Munchenbuchsee, 9

Miinchwyler, 149

Munnoth, castle of, 22

Munsingen, 77

MUnster, in Upper Valais, 104,
207

Mnnsterlingen, 87

Munster-tlm, 6, 7

Muotta, 60, 62, 232

to Altorf, 238

to Glarua, 231

to Siachelberg, 238

Muotta-thal, 113,232

Murde la (^Ote, 403

Mnrchison, Sir R., researches
at O^hningen, 21

Muretto pass, 272

Murg, river, 33

, village, 38

Miirren, b4

Murten, 148

Murtscbenstoek, 38

Museums-
Basle, 3
Berne, 74
Geneva, 1ft7, 168
Lausanne, 180
Neuch&tel, 153
Soleure, 10
Zurich, 31

Muslin manufacture, 28, 211,
218

Muaso, 319

Muthhom, 185

Mlitten. 238

Mttzzone, village and lake, 316

Mythenberg, 830

NYON.

Nafels, battle, 234

Nan^y, 391, 416

Nanlkon, 36

Nant Bourant, 406

Nam brun, val de, 443

Narexen, 245

Narrenbach, 135

Nase, 79, 343

Naters, 108

Nauders, 876

Nebikon, 14

NefT, Felix, 467, 480

Nesslau, 227

Nesso, 320

Nesthom, 125, 134, 199

Neubriicke, 347

N£UCHA.TKh (Neuenbarg), 1 58.

Palais Rougemont, 153.

Lake of, 152, 165. Pierre k

bot, 153
to La Chaux de Fonds

and Locle. 158

• to Kerne, 151

—— to Yverdun, 155

• to Hontarlier, 160

N^eueneck, 144

Neuhaus, 80

Neuhausen, 20

Neuvache, val d^ 460

Neuveville, 155

Neve, meaning of, Ivi

Nicholas, St., 11. Valley, 347.

VilUge, 347

to Evulena, 858

de Veroce, 406

N'iederwald, 104

Niesen, ^S, 128. Ascent of, 79,

128
Niklaus, 347
Nivolet, col, 424. Plan de,

424
Nodz, 8, 155
Noiraigue, 161
Nolla, torrent, 855
Noses, the, 61
Nothwyl, 14
Notre Dame des Eremites,

828
Novalese, 445
Novasca, 4*i2
Noversch, 342
Noxon river, 162
Nufenen (Novena), pass of

209
Nus, 369
Nydau, 8,155
Nydelbad, baths of. 35
Nyon, 178

2a2

494

INDSy.

OBERAAR.

Obenar Gletwher, 99
Obenarfoch pus, 103
Ober-Albi*. 47 •
Obermlp, pnss and lake, 249
Ober-Gestelen, 104

to Domo d'0«ioU, 207

— — to Airolo, 209
Ober-Halhstein, 268
Ob«rhaasenbach, torrentp 259
Oberied, 213
Oberkirch, 36

Obertand. BerneM, the, 77
Obermatt, 111
Obern Maiensaa*, 216
Ober-Rieden, 35
ObenUfTel, 237
Oberwald. 104
ObeUlden, 235
Ochaenberg, HI
Ochsenblanke, 237
Ochaenstock, 237
Octodurua, site of, 190
Oderdorf, 18

CEhningen, quairiea of. 33
CEsohinen. valley ot, 127. 129
(Estadten, 19
Ofenthal, 837

Osffebbio, 310
OldeE

lenhom, 138
Olivone, 252
Ollen, ool di» 841
OUoccia, val, 831, 338
Ollomont, 387
OUon St. Tryphon, 187
Olten, IS
Oine«;na, 323, 828
Omeinac, lake of, 142
Oncino, 470
Orbe, 157, 162. Source of the,

163. Town, 162
Oreo, val de, 421
Ormelune, 426, 451
Onnonda, lea, valley of, 142,

187
Omava8ea.S07
Oron le ChAtelet, 147
Oropa. N. D. di, 366
Oraierea, 377, 388
Oralne, val, 410
OrU. 327

, lake of, 326

Ortenatein, 255

Oaaola, val d', 208, 811, 330

Ottchea, 894, 405

Oucby. 179 •

Oalax, Golette de, 416

Calx. 461

Oyaee, 868

Oyen. St., 383

Onernone, valley, 812, 313

Paeaana, 470

Pain de Sucre, 182, 375

PIEOlfOMT.

Palet, col de, 455

Pallanza, 310

Panix, 245

Panix^r paaa, 244

PantenbiUcke, 237

Paracelaua, birthplace, 230

Paradies, 83

Pari8,xi

Paroi, lake, 479

Paa Sion, 430

Posset qf the Alp», xlii, 1.
Roada over ihem, li.
Heighta of, Ixx.

Pastry cooka (Engadine), 274

Paaturagea, liii

Payeme, 160

Paul, StJ, valley and village
479

Pecria. 814

Pedenoa, ^ley, 275

Pedeatrian travellera, hinta to,
^ 12, xxxiii

Pedriolo, 333

Peiden, 253

Batha, 264

Peire, col de, 478

Pela, mont. 4^8

Pterin cascade, 397

glader, a99

Peliasier, pont, 894

Pel la, 828

Pellice, val, 464

Pelvoux, mont, 459

Peney, 420

Pennilacoa, 186

Perdatach, 258

Perrier, 463'

Perriere, la, 454

Perouae, 468

Perte du Rhane, 164,174

Pesai. 425

Pesey minea, 451

Peatalozsi, 15, 18, 157. Birth-
place, 32

Pestarena. 881

Pdteret, mont, 376

Peterlingen, 150

Peter's Grat, 124

Petershausen, 24

Peter's Plaz, 263

Peter*8, St., Thai, 258

Petit Coeur, 449

Pfaffensprung, 115

Praffenwand, 111

Hfafliken See, 36

ITilflikon, 227

Pfkffers BATHa. 214

convent, 216

Pfyn, 198

Pianazco, 260

Piano di Fiorenza, 470

Piano Malse. 470

del R6, 470

Piceola, val, 338

Pie de Molera, 330

Pji-dmont, 299. Alpa, 299.
Waldensian valleys, 300, 464.
Inna, accommodation, &c.,
8i>l. Ruada, mules, guides,
802. Posting, Cuatcan-hooae,

POKTE.

winea, money, maps,

Tours, 304
Pierre d'Albigny. 8t, 44S
Pierre des Anglais, 395
Pierre k Berar d, 404
Pierre-k-bot, 153
Pierre li voir, 190
Pierre Pertuia, 7
Pierre, St., 378, 877

isle, 165

Pletro,San, 342
Pignerol, 464

to Mont Dauphin, 464

Pilate, mount, 53. ^uj

tion concerning, 53
Pile Alp, 340
Pillon, col de, 138, 143
Pinerolo, 464
Pinta, col de, 843
Piode, 329
Piora, 251

Piotella, foreat, ISO
Piorema, 322
Piaciadella, 2R0
Piacie, ool delle^ 340
Piumegna waterfall, 121
Pis Beveren, 255
Pit Languard, 277
Pti Linard, 275, 281
PisRoaein, 241
Pis St. Gian, 269
Pizso, amadel3S3
Plan dea Dames, 407
Plan dea lalea, 143
Plan du Loup. 456
Planay, 455

Planpinet, Echellea de, 444
Planpra, 400
Planta, fiunily of, 274
Platalva, 237
Platiere, col de la, 448
PlatU, 8o2
Flatten, 184
Plattenbeig, 243
Plata, 264, 283
Plaz, 264, 283

to Siias, 283

Pleaaur, river, 2n8
Pleura, 261, 271
Pleyaux, 182
Pliniana, la, 320
Po, valley, 470
Pommat, 207
Pona, St^ 476
Pont, Le (Jottx), 163
Pontarlier, 160

to Neuch&tel, 160

Pont d'Ael, 418

Pont Beauvoiain, 439 .

to Chambcry, by Aigi*

bellette, 439
Pont Bosel, 368
Pont Cliarles Albert, 435
Pont St. Martin. 367
Pont Serrant, 428
Ponte or Punt, in Engadu*

271, 274
Ponte, chftlets, 8i)5
Ponte Grande, 831, 338
Ponte della Oula, 326

INDEX*

495

PONTE.

fkte Chiuale, 47S

kite, in Val d'Orca, 420

|-to ViUeneuvej by Val

Mvaranclie. 422

nte Tresa, 316

pitet, 406

tatiesina, valley, 276. Village,

HtoBonnio, 279

elation, xliii

ttezza,3l8

wtets, xxvii

NtoU, col de, 3SR

■ting in Switzerland, xix

— in Piedmont, 303

nni^mont, 451

•iBeryeriede, 466

nlelTor,464

•Jjoigne, (.r Zermatt, 348

l^el pa«, 233

!lplAS. 462

ilis, 463

slojpian, 455

'Uaol, 464

*«Mtin, 464

an, 472

■ittigaa, 281

T^toBltindenx 284

«« Bar, 389

f| St. Didier, 373, 428

wNoaveaa, coldu, 4d6
remit, 80 j

*aweUo, 307

i^moujvaide, 455
reqwrtero, 331
rerayen, 363

fe^ lei, 400, 410
7.valde8,460

«lti,l60

^. le. Chamoun!. 395

'^nt vaUeys of Piedmont,

800,4154

"•.glwierdcS??
"*» plain of, a78

"JflleiSatttdela, 4o9
lily, 182

iltiaenga castlt 248
"Wwo, 280

*»aa.val. 340
'^ola, val, 339

W, chateau, 869

«cn,38

"'"".chAteaude. 467. Vil-

W,480

»el, Herr, murder of, 362

ten, St.. 88.

iasa, S«4
l&xell, 23

BIODES.

Bagats,214

to S5ss, 281

Railways, xxiv

Uamiu Grat, 243

Randa, 347

Ranll, 70

Rauv de vaches. xlviil

Ranzola, ool, 34j

Happen, valley, 205

Rapperschwyl, 36. Bridge,

35
Raterichsboden, 96
Raaracoram, Augusta, site of,

20
Rawin,137

Kawyl, pass of, 185, 136
Reai^el, 346

Real, St^ birthplace, 441
Reale, col de, 420
Realp, 101
Realt, castle, 256
Rechingen, 104
Reding, Aloys, 59, 63, 231
Reggio, 267
Re!$oledo, 322
Reiehenau. 23, 246, 254

to Splugen, 264

, island of, 24

Reiehenbach. 92, 93, 128

, castle of, 8, 16

^ falls of, 93

, baths of, 93

Reiden, 13

Reidenbach, 140

Rekingen, 205

Remus, 276

Remy, St., 383. Col de, 390

Hennendorf, 7

Reposoir, vallee du, 391

Kesti, castle of, 94

Reuchenette, 7

Reuse, the, 156, 160, Source of,

160
Reuas, river, 15, 17, 48, 50, 109,

115,119. Valley, 113
Rezzonico, 319
RhflBtikon, 281
Rheineck, 213
Rheinfelden, 20
Rheinwald, glacier, 265
Uhdmes, val de, 425. Col de,

452
Rhikb at Basle, U Junction

with the Aar, 20. Falls of,

near Schaflfhaosen, 21. At

Mayenfeld, 217. Sources of,

259, 265
Rhoden, 221
RhOnk, source and glacier of,

100.

at Geneva, 165

, junction with Arve, 173

Parte dn, 164, 174

, at Martigny, 192

, valley of the, 186, 195

Richetli pass, 243
Richisau, 233
Richterswyl, 35

to Schwyti, 227

Riddes, 192

BOSSBEBO.

Rieder Alp, 106 ^

Riedem, 233

Riedtwy], 15

Riffelberg, 348

Riffelhoru, 349

Rifle-shooting, xHx

Rioi, the, 41. Modes of as-
cent, 42. Stations, 42. N.
D. des Neiges and Hospice,

43. Mud- torrent, 44. Halt-
bad, 44. Sisters' Fountain,

44. Summit, 45. Kulm
inn, 45. Panorama from
summit, 46. Spectre oi^ 47.
Accidents on the summit,
47

Rigi, ascents of the —
Irom Goldan, or Arth, 42

„ Immensee, 43

M Kussnacht, 43

„ Weggis, 43

„ Gers^u, 44 ^

M Fitznau, 45
Rigi Vaudois, 184
Rima, 338

, col dl, 341

Rimasco, 338
Rimella, 329
Ripa, river, 461
Ripaille, 193
Riseten, pass, 243
Ristolas, 467
Ritter, pass, 206
Riva, lake of, 321

, m Val Sesia, 329

Rivarolo, 421

Rivera, 315

Roads near the Alps, 302 ,

Robenhausen, 36

Roc, Fort, 373

Rocca Sparviera, 473

Roche Blanche, 430

Gavins, 449

Fendue, la, 159

Rochemelon, the, 445
Rodoretto, 463
Rofla, 258
Rolle, 178
Romagnano^ 324
Romainmotier, 162
Roman remains, 17, 18, 19, 20,
167, 357, 367, 368, H69, 371,
387. 417, 433, 4;{6, 450
Romanche, val, 4;i7
Romansch languaget 2 19
Romanshorn, 27,33

to Zurich, 33

Romont, 148
Ronco, 419, 422
Rontrella. 268
Rorschach, 27, 218

to Coire, 212

toGais,22l

Rosa, montff, 332, 340, 852
Rosana, val, 277
Rosegg glacier, 277
Rosein, val, 241
Rosenlaui, 92
Rossa. col della, 205
Rotsbergy/aU o/the, 55-58

496

I!n>EX.

B0S8ET.

Ronet, eol de, 4U

BoaBillon, 164

Rottiniere. 140

Hothentharm, 230

Rotlihorn of tirienz, 94

Rothkieutx, 48

Rotom, lake, 2il

Rotzberg, castle of, 66

Roue, col de la, 444

Rooge, col du Mont, 367

Roagemont, 140

Rouxet, waterfall. 415

RoHueau on the lake of
Bienne, 155 ; at Motiers
Traven,161 ; at Geneva, \V^\
at Vevay, 1h3; at Clarens,
183; at Giiilon, 185; at
Meillerie, 194; at Annecy,
436; atChamliflry, 44i;

Roosses, lea, i 64

Routeii,Skki.etok, xii

-^— in Piedmont and Savoy,
304

Roveredo, S67

Ruaraa, 248

Rudenz, von, 8

Rue, 147

Ruete, 15

Ruren, 81

Kuu, 247

Rumonsch, 219

Ruppen, 213

Rusa, la, 2h0

Ruschlikon, 34

Hntli, 63

Rui, val de, 158

Saane, river, 138, 140, l4l, 145,

147
Saanen (Gesaonav), 138, 140

to Sion, 138

Saas, 336

SaaMf Vbpach, 387

Saaai^rat, 335

Sachin^en, 80

SaehMln, 69

Stecro Munte of Yarallo,

324. Convent, 326, 327

of Orta, 327

Sag^roux, 416

Sais, col de, 481

Salabertrand, 461

Salenton,4l4

Sales, St. Fr^nfois, 395, 436

, Pointedu,4l4

Salive, mont. 173
Salins, 454
Salle, la, 373
Sallenches, 808

, waterfall, 189, 190

to THOpiUl, 430

Salt-mines, 187,450
Saluces, or Saluzzo, 471
Salvadore, monte, 815, 317
Sal vent, 412
Samaden, 69, 871

to Nauders, 878

to Tinino, 276

SCHtfPFEN.

Samoens, 4)6

Samppyre, 478

Sand-Alp, pais, 237

Sandliach, river, 287

SindUrut, 211

Sanetsch, pass of, 138

Sanfront.470

Sarduna, glaci(>r, 817

Sarafans, 3 ',214

Sarnen, 68. L^ke of, 68

to Engelberg or Meyrin

gen, 70
Sarra. chfttean, 372
Sassaneire, 362
Sisiina, val,322
Sattii, pass, lit 1

Sauce, col de la, 407
Sau<;ern, 7

Saume, col de la. 444
Saut du Doubs, 158
SauvabellJn, forest, 181
Savaranche, val, 374, 424
Savien, torrent, 864, 265
Saviese, 1 39
Savines, 447

Savot, 301 . Pontes in, 304
Saxe, la, baths, 374

, mont, 375

Saxon-les- Bains, 192

Scal'^tU pass, 275

Scanfs, 275

Scarl-thal. 276

Scesa riana, 882

Scewis, 282

Scez, 427, 430. Valley, 89

Schabxieger cheese, 235

Sch"chen, 71

Sch xlientlial, 114, 8S9

Sdiailau, castle, 78

Sohaffhausek, 22. Falls of

the Uhine,2l

* to Haste, 19

to Constance, 88

to Zuricli, 28

Schalloch cave, 80
Schalbet, 201

Schalflifg Thai, 818, 882, 283
Schams, valley, iJ66
Scheideck, lesser, 85

, great, 92

Sehellinen, 113, 116
Scheriiin;^en, 78
Schienhorn, 134
Scliiers. 282
Schilthom, 84
Scliindelesi. 827
Sc:hiuner, Matthew, 131, 193

Schmtznachbathit l^
Schlagintweit, MM., 843
Schlieren, 19
Schmadriliach, 83
Schmelzl>oden, 283
Schmerikon, 36
Sch'illinen, 115
Sclionbronn, 40
Sclionegrund, 286
Schieckhorn, 88
SchreyenlMch falls, 286
Schudls, 276
Schupfen, 8

BTHL.

Schwanan, castle of, 59
S<-hMarenl>acli, 129
Schwartzhurn, S»2, 263
Schwartz See, 142
Sf-hwarzherg ({lacier, 852
Schwar ze See, 2t<3, 350
S<*liwarz Thor, 36*
Scliweitzeriiali salt-vorki,!
Scliwin<;-t'e;ite, xlix, 71,
HchuytZf 59

• to Kinsiedeln,???

to Glarus, by the Ma

thai, *^31
Sciiyn pass, 256
St-ionzier, 391
Scopa. 329
Scopella, 329
Schynij'e Platte, 88
Sea, col de In, 454
Sea Bianca, 465
Seedorf, lol '

Seefinen-thal, 186
Seelisberg, 63 .
Seewen, 59
SfewU, 284
Segnea, pass, 243

Spitz, s>44

Seii^ne, col de la, 407
SeillMch. 93
Sellisanft, 237
Selva, 248

Sembranchier, 190, 377
Semen tinsi, 313
Sempach, 14

, battle, 14

1 lake, 14

Sempione, 193, 198, 199,800

Sennhutte, liv

Sennwald,2l3

Sea<ie, stream of, 144

Sentis, 225

Sepey, 142

Septi'mer pass, 862

>erena, col de, 389 .

SeriM, 426

Serm< nta, val, 829, 888

Serneus 2»(2

Sernft Thai, 243

Serrant, river, 164

Serri^res, glen of. 156

Serue, 423

Servetus. death of, 171

Servoz, 394

to Geneva, 414

Sesia, val, 323, 329
Sestri&res.colde,468. Vflli«<i

4H2
Sewelen, 213
Sex, Porte du, 195
Sexmadau, 249
Sevon, gorge oC 154
**eyw5el, 164
Sillers. 133, 198
Sidelhorn, 100
Sidlialp, 101
Sierre, .«»3, 183; 198, 860
Signal, tlie, 47

Kuppe, 340, 358

Signau, 72

Sihl, river, 19,3^40,47

8IUL.

|], vale, 48
JAbnicke, 40

erbojner, 88

Den, ! 15

, village and lake, 272, 273

w Plana, sifiH, UTS. Lake, 273
iTermines of Ceresol, 423
prio, monte, 3:8

imen, source of, ^ 36

umene'^fr.ca^stle of, 140

nmenthal, lib, 139
IWPWM ROAD. 193, 198- 199,

— hospice, 201

— Tflla^e, 202

9im,m

' — ♦to Hex, by Diablerets, 195
-^to Dorao a'Oasola, by the
Simplon, 198

• — • to Than, by the Rawvl,
135 ^

~- • to Saanen, by the Sa-

netsch, 1.-8
— , monf, 435
~-, Pas, 430
Sfrlen, 151
Sisach, 12
Sitten, 192
Mtt«, valley, 210, River, riae

or,2S4

axt,4u

— •iVaUeyof, 413
-— toWontliev, 416
5keletontour8,xiii,304
Slate-quarries in the Platten-

SIWeofAIpnach, 66
Snow-line, Ivi
Snow, red, Ix
Snow-stonns, Ixvl

SoMina, v«l, 420
««na,267

fwietwdeDimanche, xlvil
«>UffRg,9. Cat lu-dial, clock-
"wer, arsenal, mudeum, 10
toBienne, 12
r--* to Basle, 9
««Whum,io
^Vixix, 248
«>M«boi, 7
Sondrio, i'2

Jf^K col de, 362
»7,val,3:8
&!*!"• '96

Woe, 422

», 222

.castle of, 79

*txwyler, 7a
'P'na, 283

•Pfringen, 240
pHe, 240 -•

JJ!lJ«n, pass. 259 '

"~-tollati2^g63
"^ to Loire, 259
*~-w\ieUinw)na,284

INDEX.

si^ss.

SplUifen to Chiavenna, 861
Staad, 138

Stachelbertr, baths, 236
to lir\fft\», by the Kla-

tengrat, 242

to Altorf, 240

to Disemis, 241

— — - to Ueichenau, 243

StHel, Madame de, 178

Stafa, 35

Stalfelberg, 340

Stalden, 347

StH;;e, 264

Stalla. 268

Stalvedro, glen of, 120

StanZf 67 ; to Engelberg, 108

Stan/.stadt, 6(>, 108

St ail hi, 240

StHubhiich, 82, 85

StauHk'jher, Werner, 63, 231

Steamers —

on lake of Brienz, 95

on lake of Como, 328

at Conatanre, 26

on lake of Constance, 26

on lake of Geneva, 169, 176,
193

at Lausanne, 181

on lake of Lucerne, 52, 60,
lOM, 112, 114.

on Lago Maggiore, 309, 312

on lake of M orat, 1 48

on lake of Neucbfttel, 154

at Rorschach, 212

at Zug. 40

at Zurich, S3, 34
Stecbelberg. 126
Steckborn, 24
Siein, 23, 1 1 1
Steinach, 210 "*
Steinberg Alp, 123
Sieinen, 110, 231
Steinhauaalp. 102
Steinhaushorn, 102
Stc'insberjf, castle, 275
Stelvio, road of the, 328
Stephan,St., 140
Stierenbach, 109
Stock, 103

Srockalper, canal, 195
Stockliorn, 78, 79, 128, 349
Storegg, pass, 70, 109
St'iss, 213

strahleck, pass of the, 101
Strahlhorn, 355
Strattlingen, tower of, 128
Strela. pass, 282
Stresa,307, 310
Stretta, la, pass, 279
Srrim, valley, 250
Strona, river, 307

, val and village, 328

Stroppo, 473
Stunae, length of, xvii
Stura, the, 473, 475
Sulpice, St., 160
Surenen, pass of, 109
Sursee, 14

S.isa, 444. Valley, 461
Siiss, 275, 284

497

THUILES.
Susselle, 346
Susten, passof, 110

, village, 198

Susten horn, lu2, 110
Suwarrow't manh over the St.

Gothard, in9, 113, 116, 120.

Across the Kinxig Kulm, 232.

At .Nluotta, 232. Up the

Semflthal, 245
Suze rivtr, 7, 12
Swiss, origin of the name, 60.

-Ste $ 13, xliv
SwiTSERi.A ND. (ntroductory

Information, xi

Taeoney glacier, 394
Tacqui, col de, 4S7
Tagertsche, 72
Tal^fre glacier, 398
Talloires, 437
Tamlna, 214
Tamins, 246
Tanninges,416
Tanzenburg, 61
Tarasp, 276
Tarentaise, 449
Tasch, 348

glacier, 355

Taschhorn, 337

Tavannea, 7

Tavetsch, 248

Teggiate, 260 ■

Telchenbom, 344

TicLi., Willi AH, birthplace,

114, Lands on the Platte,

64. Siioots Gessler, 64.

Scene of his deeds, 61

Death, 114
Tell's chapel, 55, 64
TfU's Country, 61
I'ellenburg, castle of, 188
Tempo, col de la. 481.
Tenay, 164
Tendre, mont. 163
Termignon, 456
Territet, 184
Teisen, 38
Tessin vale, 314
Tete Blanclie, 355
TSte Noire, 4o2

to Martigny, 418

Teufelstein, 115

TeulTen, 223

Thabor, mont, 444

Thalwyl, 35

Theodule, St., pass of, S57, 869

Thibaad de Couz, 439

Thiele, or Zihl, river, 8, 162.

155, 156
Thiengen, 20
Thiermatten. 185
Thomas, Duke of S»voy,mona-

ment of, 371
Thones, valley of, 437
Thonon, 193

to SIxt, 194

Thorwaldsen's Lion, 58
Thoiles, 477

498

INDEX.

THUN.

Thuh, T8

, lake of, 79

— — to InterUiken, 79

— to Leak, l9l7

— <— to Vevaj, by the Shnmen-

thal, 189

to Sioti or Siem. 185

Thnr river,86, )ilO« 226. iiuuice,

2x7
ThurKOTfa, canton, 86, 3S
Thusia, 256
Ticino, river, IfO, 128, 809.

Valley. 818, 813
Tiefenau, "J?
Tiefenkasten, 268
Tignes, 458. Val de, 458
Tme pass, 140
Tinifeiv, rivulet, 18«
Tinea, les, 401, 410
Tinnevergei, pie de, 415; eol

de. 415
Tirnno, 281
Titlis, 108
TSdil^erg. 23?. 841
TodtenSee, 100
Toguenhurjir, 887
Tondo Ripario. 318
Toreinbec.387
Tomo, 320
Torrent, val de, 360

, pas de, 368

Torrenthorn, 138

Tosa, river, 203, 907, 330. Falls

of, 201
Toss, vallev and convent. 28
Tour, la, 4i3«4A4. Col de,477
Tour de Peil«, 188
TouiHes. eol tie, 448
ToorMllon castle. 198
Toumanche, val, 358
Tourtemagne, 184, 198. Valley,

359

toRippel, 1 33

to the iEvKisclihom, 204

TouRa. Skrkrton, xii, 804
Toussaint TOuvertore, 160
Towns, Swiss, xlvii
Trachsel Lauinen, 64
Trembling in Switxerlemd, ^ 18,

zxxii
Travers, val, 100
Traverse, 462
Traversette, col de la, 468
Tr^latete, glacier, 408
Tr^^chant, 404, 410
Tremerzo, 320
Tremola, val, 120
Tremolite, mineral, 180
Tresor at Aosta, 37 i
Trepalle, 879
Trient, 190, 411.
Trift glacier, 354

in the Gadmenthal, 109

Trimlach, valley, IS
Triiiqaent, 418
Triolet, 3«9
Trogen, 223
Tro^ne, 364
Trois I'orrenta, 417
Trooehet, la, 469

VADUZ.

lYttbSee, 111
Trtlhschachen, 71
Trttmmelbaeh, 84
TrAna. 247
Trttttlisberg, 187
Tschiamot, 248 **
Tschierf, 876
Tschingel glacier, 183

hamlet, 187

Tritt, 124

Tulle, lA. de Ste. Foi, 487

Tiiille,Ia, 42m. 451

Tunnel through Alps, zxfv,

444
Turflfi. 18

Tdricom, site of, 89
TUBIN, 446

to Aosta, 866

• to Chambery, 448

to Courmayeur, 366

Tlirl, lake of, 48
Turlo pass, 338, 339
Turtman, 134, 198,204
Turtman-thal, 359

to Eintlach-thml. 359

Tuais, SO j

Twann, 135

Tyndall, Piofeasor, $ 16, It

Ubaye, valley of, 475, 479
Ubayette, river, 475
UetUbeiK. S2
t/otfttf, 481, 443
UTrichen, 104
Ultimom, aite of, 13
Unspunnen, castle of, 82
Unteraar Gletscher, 99
Unter - Hauenstein pasi^ 13

Tunnel, 18
Unter-Scbaeben, 840
Untersee, 24
Unterseen, 80
Untere Kothhom, 850
Uuterwalden, 67
UotnopasL '4il
Urbach, viuley of, 96, 108
Urbigenum, site of, 168
Uri,bay of,63

, canton of, 113, 114

.gallery of, 117

Uri Rothstock, 65

Urn^ Baden, 240

Urnerloch, 117

Urseren, valley and village of,

117, 118
Uaeigne, 864
Usses, river, 435
Uster, 36
Uxnach, 86

Vachette, la, 460
Vadura, 217
Vadui, 814, 821

VESS0Z7ET.

ValOrsine, 410
Valaia, 189, 193

, Upper, 104

Valetta. pass, 862
Valette, 377
Vallaisan, 429
VaUante, col de. 471
Valleae. 34». 345, 367
Vallengin, 158
VaUeys, Swiss, xlii
Valnobe, val,418
Valpelline, 363, 387
Valperga, 421
Val Fra, 480
Valprato, 480
Vals, 263

VKlserberg. 263,865
Valserine, 174
Valteline, 281
Vanderens, 147
Vanoiae pass, 455
Vanusai. aal>estoa weaver,
Vanzone, 831
Varallo, 324

to Alagna, 329

to Val Anzasca, 338

• to Arona, 323

* to Baveno, 326

Varen, 133

Varenna, 388

Varens, aigoiSe At, 398

Varrone, val, 322

Vara, col de, 419

Vlittis, 817,243

Vaud. canton, 140,142, 156. 177

Vtwdms valleys, 300, 4S4;

march of the, 448, 461
Vaugier, 391
Vaulion, 168
Vedro, valley, 203
Vegezzo, val, 3 1 1
Velan, mont, 182, 878
Venadio, 474
Venasca, 4T8
Venetz, M., 38«
Venoge, valley, 157
Venos,488
Veran, i)t^ 480
Verdon, valley, 478
Vereina, paa», 282
Verena, St., chapel and w

mitage, 11
Vermiana, glacier, 418
Vemai, lake, 429
Vemant, 189
Vema>az, 189,412
Vernal, 194
Veruex, 184
Verney, 4^
Verrex, 368
Verrieres dtf Joox, 160

de Soisae, 160

Versam, y64 •
Versamer Tobel. 864
Vers ri^liae, H:i
Verauix, 178

1 river, 1"8, 407, 427 .".

Verte, aiguille, 39N
Verzaaca, valley, 313
Veasoney, ool, 36V

INDEX.

499

: ' VEVAY.

^y, 182. Fete desVigiie
tons, 183

iveyse, river, U2, 182
7rier, 173

ytaax, 184

k Mala dencribed, 2i6
Soprano, 273

e, torrent, 41
, ch, 104, 106
j-toCrodo,205
lEKherGrat, I Off
lBKhe^Homer, 103, 1 04
(Hi, 210. 272
niv,465

SUanmbert, 456
tBard Goitreux, 455
IQand'Arene, 459
ffienenve, 186

— toSion, 186
-inVald'Aosta, 425
ilietuwater&ll,364
illy, 404, 414

Nine, 440

Iwent, St., 34P, 369

~ Pyramide, 340

Wonissa, site of, 17

ol>.patt.280

K«naz, 195

i<»,monte,469. Col de, 469
wp, 198

— toZermatt,346
rtoSaas,346
»PMb, 198
wper-thal, 198, 347
>woye,360
lttore,8t,2fi7
mile, 467

^80?na, 307, 330

7 to Macugnaga, 330

'!«>n«,lej,i75

'Jwiera, Swiss, xxii

5"re.l69, 170,172, 174
«faaen, 233

•^MRhein thai, 242, 246
">»^,195

J", col de. 393, 405

yt«,Tal,471

™. valley and village, 253,

ttche,i74
"pea, 276

'^enwhwyl, 35
««ihan8en, 23
pluclie, 225
;j«Meg, 300, 464

Jnacht, 109
."WW, 20
lenstadt, 39
.lake, 37
•eUen, 28, 36
'» ^on, 17
J««>. castle, 213
«n«ein, castle, 216
>n. Ho, 115

-I' *•"! *.

WINES.

Watchmakers, 152, 158, 168
fFater/allSf Swiss, xli
Waterfalls—

Aar. 96

Aix, 432

Alpbach, 93

Barberine, 411

Bei-ard, 411

Bon Nant, 393

Datschbach, 109

Doiibs, 158

Fatschbach, 236

Frassinone, 202

Gardona. 262

Gies^bach, 94

Grezy, 433

Moesa, 266

Nant d'Arpenaz, 392

Piumegna, 121

Reichenbach, 92

Rhine, 21

Romanohe, 459

Rouget, 415

Saane, 138

Sallencbe, 189

Schreyenbach, 236

Tosa, 208

Villetta, 364
Wattwvl. 226
Wauwill, 14
Weggis, 43.61. Ascent of the

Higi from, 43
Weid, hill of, 28
Weinachter Eck, 222
Weinfelden, 33
Weissbad. 224
Weissenburg, 139
fFeissensfein mountain ^ ascent

from Munster, 7. From So-

leure, 11
Weissenstein in the Orisons,

270
Weisshom (Cervin), 130
Weissmies, 337
Weisstannen-thal, 243
Weiss Thor pass, 332, 351
Wellborn, 92
Wengern Alp, 85
Werdenberg, 213
Werner, poet, 129
Wesen, 37

to Schwytz, 227

to Glaras, 234

Wetterhorn, 88, 92
Wettingen, 19
Wetzikon, 36
Wicheln, 244
WildegL', castle of, 16
Wilderkirchlein, 224
Wildhaus, 227
Wildstrubel, 136
Wimmis. castle of, 128, 139
Wind on lakes. 60. 319
Windgelle, 115
Windisch, 17

Wines: Netichdtel, 154; Cor
taillod, 154; LaCdte, 178;
Coquempin, 192 ; Lavaux,
181; Yvorne, 186; Com.
pleter, 218; of Piedmont,

ZURICH.

303 ; Donas, 368 ; Cham-
have, 3f)9

Winkel, 66

Winkelried, Arnold, his noble
devotion, 14. Statue of,
67. House of, 67

Winterthur, 28

Wolfenschiess, 108

Wolfgang, St., 283

Wood -carving, 9b

Worb, 72

Worth, castle of, 21

Wraunka Tobel, 276

Wrestling matclies, xlix, 71,
94

Wufflens, castle of, 179

Wunderbrunnen, 111

Wyl, 210

to Coire, 226

Wylderswyl, 83

Wyler, 128

Wyler Feld. 15

Wyndham and Pocock, 395.

Wytenstein, 63

Yverdun, 157

to Geneva, 157

* to Neuchfitel, 157

to Lac de Joux, 16»

Yvorne, 186

ZShringen, Beichthold von, 73

Zavreila, 263

Za/iwyl. 72

Zeleze, Croix de, 417

Zermaltt 348

• to Visp, 346

to the Einfisch-thal, 354

to Chatillon, 366

* to Evolena, 364

Zernetx, 275

Zihl, river, 8, 162, 155, 156

Ziegelbrucke, 37, 234

Zi lis, 258

Zimmerman, birthplace, 17. At

Kichterswyl, 35
Zinai glacier, 3o4 ; hamlet, 361
Zizers, 217
Zmutt glacier, 350
Zooca pass, 272
Zofingen, 13
Zollikofen, 8, 15
Zschokke, Henry, residence, 16
Ztro, 40

, lake of, 41

•to Zurich, 30

Zumstein, Herr, 342

Spitze, 353j

Zumsteg, 208

Zuos, 274

Zurich, 29. Battle, 29. Cathe-

Bnlnu, »I. Rrrsrn

ZOrleli \ikt •■(, 3<

ZarldibergvB, gold-a

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■^■»—ir^»« ».n>>m 'T' <f '■*iM..^i ^»r^i^ya■■■Jy^

J, and R, MK). have the adyaotage of

DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, 1

Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the
Owners' absence, at most moderate rates of rentt

* -MP .Oi ■

parties fiivouring J. and R. M«C. with their Consignments are requested to be
Iparticular in having the Bills of Lading sent te them dibect by Post, and also to
forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of
Dutjr, all Packages are still examined ty the Customs immediately on arrival.
Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended

; to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38, Queen

' SrmEBT, as above.

; MESSRS, J, AND R/ MCCRACKEN

lARE THE APPOINTED AQENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FAHlNA,

Gegenubeb dem Jtjlichs Platz, Cologne,

VOB HtS

' CELEBRATED EAIJ DE COLOGNE. I

b2 i

MUBJUrS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. August,

MESSRS. J. AND B. UCCBACKEN'S

: PRrNCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS.

ALEXANDRIA. ..... The Sgrptian Commerdal and Tradhig Company— Ute B&ififiS k Go.

ALICANTE Mr. FTk. Dahlakder.

ANCONA Messrs. Moorr, Morrllst, & Go.

AXTWFRP S ^essi'S* F. 3fA0K & Go.

^""^ 1 Mr. P. Vak Zkrbrorok, Picture Dealer, &c., Roe des RecoUeta, 101$.

ATHENS, PIRiEUS

BADEN RADEN i Messrs. Stutves k Bikdbb. Mr: F. Pkikav's Saccessor.

vAo^on oAuaa . . . -^ Messrs. Mellkrio FEEREa.

BAD EMS Messrs. Beckeb & Jukg. Mr. BL W. Thikl.

BAGNERES DE BI-j

GGRRE (Hautes > Mr. LioNGERUZBT, Marble Works. *

Pyrenies) i

BASLF i Messrs. Jkak Fbbzswxxk & Fog. Mr. Jicav Tiioiacmr, F0i.

* ^ •••♦ •• IMr. J. Frby.

nvpT TV i Messrs. Schicklbx Brothers.

^'^^^ •• ( Mr. Lion M. Cohk, Gomiii" Eaqwditeur.

BKkNE

BEYROUT Mr. HEiniT HcALi).

BOLOGNA.... Messrs. Rekoli, BuGOio, & COb 81g. L.MKNI.

BOMBAY Messrs. Leckib & Go.

( Mr. Gbemaiixy Fils AIne.

BORDEAUX <j Mr. LioN Gbruzbt. 44. AUtea de Toamj,

^ I Messrs. Rivixbr k Go., Place du Palais, 4.

B(5UL0GNE S. M. . . Messrs. Most, Pkeb, Fiub, k Vooue. Mr. A, Sdkb.

CALAIS Messrs. Mobt, Pere, Fils, & Vooub..

GAK/CTTTA Messrs. Qillakders, Arbuthnot, & Go.

CARLSBAD Mr. Tbomas Wolf, Glass Mann£sctaror.

CARRARA Sg. F. BiBNAiMi, Sculptor. Sig. VnnjBxao Jjmr, Scolpfor.

CATANIA Messrs. Jeans A Go. •

GIVITA VEGGHLA. . Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Vice-Consulate.

GOBLENTZ Meesra. Saohs & Hoohheiveb. Wine Merchants.

COLOGNE i ^^' '^' ^* Fartna, gegenliber dem Julichs Plats.

*** (Messrs. Gn*.TiLMES& Co.

CONSTANCE Mr. Fred. Hoz.

CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. G. S. Hanson & Go. Mr. Ai««d C. Labohtok,
COPENHAGEN..... Messrs. H. J. Bmo &SoK.
OORFa Mr. J. W. Taylor.

(Messrs. H. W. Bassbkge k Go. Mr. E. Abno£D, Printseller. The
Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufiictory DepdU Mr. J. Kiuft
Glass Manufacturer. Madame Huaha Wolpsouh, SdiSne^iga'i^*
No. 5. Mr. Moritz Mayer, Moritz Strasse.
[Messrs. Ehh1«. Fbnzi 8c Go. A^essrs. J^'bbkch & Oo. Messrs. Ma-
J QUAY & Pakbnhau. Mr. E. Goodban. Mr. J. Totxoh. Mesffli.
FLORENCE . I N*«ti, Giabdi, k Co. Mr. Ant", di Lmoi Placbntx. Mr. 8.

'•••••• Lowe. Mr. Gaetp. Bianghini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. F. Baz*

ZANTi & Fro., Sculptors, Xaingo I'Amo. Sig. Caklo Nooooii
Sig. Lmot Rauaoci.
«.» . ..T^.^^T^n. « „ ( **'• P« -*■• Tacchi's Successor, Glass Manufscturer, Zefl D, 44.
FRANKFORT 0. M.^ Messrs. Bino, Jun,. & Go. Mr. F. BoBLBR.Zell D. 17-
«^ . -.T^^^T^n . « V Mr. G. A. ZiPF. Messrs, Sachs and Hochheimeh. Wine Merebsnts.
FRANZENSBAD.... Mr. C. J. Hofmann.

GENEVA Mr. AuG»t. Snbll. Mr. G. A. Etobnbenz, Grand Qual, No. 16.

{Messrs. Granet, Bbown, & Op.
Messrs. G. Viqnolo & Fig>. Mr. A. MosSA, Croce di Malte.
Mr. G. Gibelli.

GHENT i ^6^^* ^ BiTYSBB Fbbbes, Dealers in Antiquities. Msrcb^ 0.

*• •( Beurre.No.21.

S?5^i?I^ • Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messn. Tdbwbb * »

g^JiBURG Messrs. Schorm br & Teichm ann. Mr. G. J. F. Roi>b.

S^XSr Aia» A' S®^«** ^UBDiN, Pfere, Fils Jeune. and G. Capbon.

5SK5v5ff^"**' Mr. Ph. ZnftfERMANN.
HONFLBl^ Mt.J.Waoker.

1867. MURRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 6

X<=CBACEEH'B LIST OF C0SB£8P0ND£NT8-<»n^««i.

INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J. Ghossmakh.

LAUSANKS Mr. Dubois Kbnou, FOb.

/-Messrs. W. Macbean & Go. Messrs. Thoicab Patb & Sons

,_ I Messrs. Maquat & Pasjcnhav. Messrs. Qiaoo. Micali & Fiqo.,

LEGHORN; ^.....•••^ Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. Rmou. Mr.CAKLO

I I Cabooci, Uffizio della Strada Ferrata. Messrs. Gio. Gaujasti &

; V Co. Mr. Ulissb Cotbeitan.

\ i^BSPZlQ Mr. J. £. Oehlschlaobb's Suooessor.

iVgBON... The Agent of the Peninsular said Oriental SteajaNavlgationCompany.

LUCERNE Messrs. F. Knobb & Fils.

lUDRAS.... ....... Messrs. BiKNT & Co. , .

' HALAGA. •.•.••••• Mr. Gborob Hodgson.
_.,_ r Mr.EMAKUBLZAHurr. Messrs. Josh. Baxhaivih ft Sons, 45. StradA

AU/TA { I Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fobtunato Testa. 92, Strada &(<»

^ ^ Lucia. Mr. L. Fbancalahza, 123, Strada St. Giovanni.

■ aANNHEIM Messrs. Etssen & Glaus.

MARIENBAD ...... Mr. J. T. Adlbb, Glass Manufacturer.

HABSEILT^IBS CMessrs. Claude Clebc & Go. Messrs. Hobaob Bouohet & Go.

! " "^'^'"'"'^" t Mr. Philiobet. T, Place du Thd&tre.

■ 5^|™^CE Mr.G.L.KATSEB.Expcditeur. Mr. W. KiroaeiUOTr. Cabinet Maker

JJ^TONE Mr. Palmabo, Mr. Jean Orengo Fils;

; HESSHNA Messrs. Caillieb, Walkeb, & Co. :

MTT.Av f Messrs. Buffet &BEBUTO,Pias5zatedlS.Sepolcro, No. 8176.

"*•• I Messrs. Fbatelli Bbaxbilla. •

UONTBEAL f Messrs. Tuoupson. Muebat, & Co.; Messrs. Davie, Clabkb, ft

^^ (. Clayton. i

MUNICH I ^^' ^^- W™*^*** Prtotseller, Theatinerstrasse, 36. Heirs of Skb.

......... ..-^ Pichlkb. Messrs. L. Nbgbioli & Co.

JAWiES Messrs. Iqgulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Tubnxb ft Co. !

"EW "YORK •..,... Messrs. Austin, Baldwin, & Co.

m(t£; ( Messrs. A. Laoroix & Co., British Consulate. MesBn. £. Gabxx>KI

'••••••••••••'l &Co. Les Filsj de Chas. Giobdan. .

^^ / Mr. Paolo Galiubebti, at the Red Horse, Dealer in AntiquitiM.

luJBElIBEBO A Mr. John Conbad Gnopf, Banker and Forwarding Agent.

I Mr. A. Pickebt, Dealer in Antiquities.
"STEW)......,,,.. Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. Mack and Co.

PALERMO

PARIS............. Mr. L. Chenub, Packer, Rue Croix Petits CbampB> No, 24. i

|AU , Mr.BKBGEB0T. j

'^A Messrs. HuouET ft Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble.

PRAGUK i ^^' ^' HoFMANN. Glass Manufacturer, Blauem Stern. . i-:- !

C Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. ' !

QUEBEC' .••...,.... Messrs. Forsyth & Pembkrton.

^Messrs. Magbean ft Co. Messrs. Fbebbobh& Co. Messrs. Ma^uat* '

Pakbnuah, ft HooKBB. Messrs. SpADA, Flamini, & Co. Messrs.

BOXE Plowden, Cholheley, ft Co. Mr. £. Tbbbbi. Mr. Luioi Bban-

CHiNi. at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shea. Messrs. Toxbini '

ft Pbuckmayek. I

TtAi«tiiimT^ A V I Messrs. Pbbston & Co. Messrs. C. HBKMAinr ft Co. ^

WTTERDAM | Messrs. Boutmy & Co. i

SCHAFFHAUSEN.. Mr. FbedHoz.

SETILLE .......... Mr. Julian B. Williamb, British yice*Con/ralate.

8MYRNA Messrs. Hanson & Co.

ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs Thomson. Bonab, ft Co. Mr. 0. E&uobb* j

8YRA Mr. Wilkinson, British Consul. i

, THOUNE Mr. A- H. J, Wald, Bazaar. Mr. N. Buzbbbobb.

; TRMTB... ., Messrs. Moobb & Qo.

TURU^ , Messrs. J. A. Lachaxsk & Fbbbkso. Rue de I'Arsenal. No. i.

/ Messrs. Fbebbs Schielin. Mr. Antonio Zen. Mr. C. Ponti.

L "VENICE J Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. '

F . I Mr. L. Boyabdi, Campo S. Fantino, No. 2060, rosso.

VEVEY Mr.A.GETAZ.

; viEKV A S ^^* ^' Ullbich, Glass Manufscturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. i

■ LMuaas. ^Messrs. J. & L. Lobmstbb, Glass Mannfacturera, 940^ KSmthner i

[ yOLTERRA Sig. Otto. Solaini. [Straase.

WALDSHOTT...... Mr. Fbed.Hoz.

ZUBICH ,.,.,,.,,,, Messrs. AYeiss zu|a Bracken.

6 ima^UrS HAKPBOOI^ ADYSBTISI^JB. Augia«4J

' I ■ I ' ■ » - I I I I p.—— ^»l I I I M I p^j— ^»».^»i^ ^P— —^p- I J

FLORENCE.

TELEMACO DI G. BIANOHmi,

MAKITFAGTUEEB OF TABLES AlH) LADIES' OBI^AHE2!rr3

OF FLOEEKTINE MOSAIC,

LTTHG* AXSO NTTOTO, 1, ASH tOOBt' OQVlBBASn, ft«

TNVITES tii« Engliih NobiUty an4 Gentry to v&ili Ui EstfiblishmeQi, wbere
-^ may alwayv be seen numerous spedmens of tiifs celebrated and beantifiEi
Mannfiu^ture, in every description of Kare and Pr«cions Stones. Orden linr Taijtkm
and other Ornaments executed to any Design.

T. BiANOHiKi'8 Agents in England art Umt$* J^ 4 E. WCuAoatMt
38y Qaesn Street, Canoon Sti«et, £.0., I^ondoiu

BRIENZ ^ INTERLACKEN.

J. GROSSMAKN,

SCULPTOB IN WOOD, AND MANUPAGTUBEB OF SWIB8
WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS^

TTIS WAREfiOUSE is situated between the Belredet^ Hotel and Sdiweiaerlio^
^ where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to b«
found in Switotrland* He undortikes to forward Goods to England and elaewhem.

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. lb B. MeCRACKJEN, 38, Qaeea Stnet,
CMmm Street, EX!., London.

^■^mm^mti^mtmK^mmmmm^mm^mam^^^mmmmmMKm^m't^immu ■>igifc tti-m ■ fc ir»— ttw ,

P i S A.

GIUSEPPE ANDREONI,
Sculptor in Alabaster and 01]!iects of Fine Art,

NO; S72, VIA SANTA MARIA,

WBE&S

A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, Ac,

CAN BE SEEN.

W67,

H0KR4Y'S HANDBOOK APVE3TW5,

ANTWERP.

—mi

HOTEL DE TEUROPfi,

I Nmt to ft0 Pott Office,

Vonaerly Hotel da Pan;

Thb Hotel has been rebnllt, » magnlflceiit
SiOe i mangar added, aa well aa many Bed
|bd SUtfa]^ Booms, entirely new furolidied
tDd redecorated; and the present Proprietor
IIHres no exertion to render It one of tJie
noBt popular hotels on the Ontinent.
Excellent Table d'Hdte.
Hot and Cold Baths.
Stabling and Coach-House.
SagUah and French Kewspapen.

LEGHORN.

HUCNTH UCAU AND SON,

Sta, FrancescOy No, 20.

llaiMiliMtory of Marble^ Alabaater, aod
Scagliola Tableau and DepOt of oltfecta of
Fine Arts.

Their extensive Showroom^ m »isn^
open to Yiaitors.

TBUB AGBKTS IV SKQLAJID ABK

M£SSB8. J. AND B. X'OAACSXK,

38, Queen Street^ Cannon Sired, JE»<^., ]
London, ■-

■;■" »y

•mmmmmmif.

'yg'T-

rr—

MUNICH.

HENRY WIMMER'S

CFALLEBT OF FINE ARTS.

PROPRIETOR,

AUGUST HUMPLMAYR,

35, THEATINEB STREET,

Writes the Nobility and Gentry to visit his Gallsbt of Fms ABSMt 'J^mmPj

an Extensive Collection of

MODERN PAINTINGS

hj the best Monich Artists, >

^AtNl^INOS ON PORCBIiAIlV ABTll OK €(I<A|i0>

all sorts of
PHOTOOBAFBS, ENGRAVmaSi t.IS£COaBAS»H«, STO.,

indttding the complete Collectioos «f the various Galleries,

CoTfespoiideiits and Agents in England, Messni. J* & R. M'CfiAOKBH, 86, QueeB
™et, Cannon Street, E.G., London.

8 HORRAY'S HANDBOOK ADyEKTISE& AosdMJ

FRANKFORT.

i ■

P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR,

BOHEMIAH FAHCT GLASS AKB CITSTM.

WAMIEMOIEISISo .,

p. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, MAiTOFACTtmEE of Bosexws
Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an eztensiye
Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of

OBNAMSKTAL 0T7T, £NaRAYED, GILT, Sa PAZNTSD GLASS,

BOTH WHITB AHD COLOU&En,

In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the TaUe
and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautifal
branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a
continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in
BO high a degree during a considerable number of years,

P. A. TACOHt's SuccEssoB has a Bbanoh Establishmekt during the
Summer Season at

WIESBADEN^ in the Old Ooloimade,

Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest
Articles from his Frankfort Establishment.

Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the ShoTf
Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacohi's Suookssob.

Hia Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward ?f
chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & E» M'CbagsbK| 38, Qq0
Street^ Cannon Street, E.C., London*

1867. UtTRRAyS HAKDBOOE ADVERTISER. 9

COLOGNE ON THE RHINE.

JOHiM MARIA FARINA,
GEGENtJBER DEM JtJLICffS PLATZ

(Opposite tlie Jtilich'8 Fiaoe).

FUBVEYOB TO H. M. QUEBN YIGTOBIA;
TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OP WALES;
TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA;

THE KING OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC..

07 TEB

ONLY GENUINE EAU D£ COLOaNE.

npHE firequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, bat for the most
-^ part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request
the attenticm of English travellers to the following statement : —

Tbe favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by
ny anoestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it ; and in order to be able
to sell their spiulons article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro-
cored ttkemselves a firin of Foffi-na^ by entering into partnership with persons of my names
whidj Is a very common one in Italy.

I^BzsoQs who wish to purchase tfte gawnmt omS. oriffinal £au de Cologne ought to be parti-
CQiar to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Fari$ia,
bat alio the additional words, gegmUber dem JUUoh's Piatt (that is, opposite the Julich's
I'^X without addition of any number.

levellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against
^g led ast^ray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services
to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house,
situated c^pposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the
"Aid persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where,
Dotwitbgtanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of
^ price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a
^Sh price and a bad article.

Another kind of impositicm is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters,
('onunissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one,
>Dd that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account

The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my
^ose, oppotUe the JUUch*8 Flaoe, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt
vid Ob^ Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three
Ugher ones bear my name, i/o7uinn ifaria i^artno.

The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the
Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, liave awarded to me the Prize
Medal, and that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris. 1855.

OoxMHC, Jmuanf, 1869. JOHANK MARIA FARINA,

GEGENtfBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ.

*a* % Agency t^ London is at Messrs. J. & R. M'Ckaccen, 88, Queen

Street, Cannon Street, E,C,

10 HUBRAre HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEB. Augi

_ - I '■■■■_ I J ■ I 'n I I I ■■ I .. I ^ - _

PRAQU E.

WILLIAM HOFMANN,

BOHEMIAN GLASS lCAlfTJ7ACTnRESj

TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROB OF AUSTBIAi

HOTEL BLUE STAR,

Reoommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own MannfactorieB ii
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are soU
at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments.

Agents in London, Messrs, J. and B. M'CEACKEN, 38, Qaeen Street, Ctsam\

Street, E,C. Qoods forwarded direct to England, Amrica, fa.

FLORENCE.

JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS.

A B T I S T S,

GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VU MAGOIO,

Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modem Original Paintingg, and alio Cspi»
from the most celebrated Masters.

Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and £xrwirdei with
despatch to all parts of the world.

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, of Ko, 38, Qaeen
Sti'eet, Cannon Street, E*C., Loudon.

II 111! ■■■■■»■ iwnnwiiiwiw' wLiii-ni II nnia»«iiiii ii ■ m «tm uliiwoii " >»iiil«p|i^,i»m— .»^— »^*iWSit<wn««l— ^MM»

VIENNA.

lP«li«liil»i| White and Colpurea Crf^tai OIims W^r^fiMUf •

J. & L. LOBMEYB,

Gli ABB M AlTUr AC7tJBSB8,

No. 13, KABNTHNEESTRASSJE.

The most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian White mad CsloonA
Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the newest and
most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all ArtidUs of
Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases. Candelabras, Lnstreiy
Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, they fejel assured, satis^ every visitor. Thef
• obtainwl the Prise Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862.

The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable c^urges,'— The EngUili
language is spoken.
I' Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CsACKEiry No. 3J)

f Queen Stieet, Cannon Street, E.C., Loudon, will exjecute aU orders wiUl til

^ greatest care and attention.

m, Mix^BAT's hakdboob; advkbtiseb. It

VIENNA.

BOJHKOIIAIV OX1A8S JJn> BHONZB TTABBVPYniB*

HEINRICH ULLRICH,

I LATE WILLIAM HOFMANN,

: GLASS AND BRONZE MANTTFACTtJItER,

Ko. 8, LUGECK,

fi>M&m6iid8 Ms great aasortment of Glass and Bronze Ware In the didoait artlpleB, In
^colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the JExif^ab. and Aiaertcaa taste,
r$m kis own maaufactoiriea in Bohemia and Vienna (for the Boonse).

^ prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.

HeiecelTed at the last London Exhibition the Frij» Medal fn exodleat exdeatloil and
^ cheap prices.

I HESITRIOH UliljttlCH has a firaoeh EBtablishment doiiog the Suniner Season at

BADEN-BADEN,

NEW PBOMBNADE. 418,

VlMni tlU alyraary be lotmd an tzteiijiive 4election of the newest articles frofi Ids Vienna
lufltoQae,

Tb6 Elfish* language is epokiea, and every InfOTmallon given with pleasure to travellers .

He sells on^ real SollomiMl CHa««i and not Hnnflsurhm ulass, which la many
Pfwiiiie^Jn^ibrtltutiaii, ^^

Jigents in Paris and New Tork.

Aftetl ia London. HessQi, J* and B. V-V^J^^EJS, 3it Que<9i Street^ Camioa Street, £XI.

VIENNA.

Hk-ia.

fiESOH BROTHEES,

JEWELLERS,

I ■

% KOHLKAMT, COBNEB jOP WALLKEB . STBfiBT,

I Beg to fetiommeoA theii* Estabti^un^t ef

*■'■'■•

OWN ItANUFACTUBED
ISWBUifiKlf AND FAirCT OOLD A&^CI^JiS,

12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER Aog«

FLORENCE.

MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI,

ARTISTS,

No. iai8, VIA DEI BABBI (Stadio on the First Floor).

Messrs. Costa and (3onti ke^ the largest collection in Floraace of origiiul

Ancient and Modem Pictures, as well as Copies of sjl tlte most oelebrated MasfcenL

N.B. — English spoken.

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACEEN, 38, Qaeeii Sticflli
Cannon Street E.C., London.

THUN (Switzerland).

HOTEL DE^ELLEVUE.

npniS old and celebrated Establishment is staated in

-^ the midst of a magnificent Park, surrounded bj most picturesque gkcien
and mountains, at the foot of which extends the beautiful lake oC 'Diomtt.
The Park contains the English Chapel, as well as Reading and Billiard Booms, and
several Chalets. Families who desire to make a lengthened stay at BelleTue will
find there every comfort belonging to a firat-class establishment The Steamer
which runs between Thun and !Newhaus (Interlaken) embarks and disembarks itt
passengei's in front of the Hotel.

J« W. KNECHTENHOFEB.
VENICE.

CARLO PONTI,

OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGBAPHEB;

Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Eidiibition of 1862, and whos
House is acknowledged to be the first of its kind in the City, has opened a qb*
and lai^e Establishment in Piazza di San Mai'co, Prociiratie Nuove, in aMtioo ta
that which he keeps in the Riva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Besk
Daneli.
The Optical Instrument invented by him, and known under the name of the

ALET08G0PB, or UEaAIAIOSCOFE,

has undergone such improvements as to render it (according to the judgment
intelligent persons) the most perfect thing of its kind, both for its simple #
struction and magnificent optical effects.

Conespondents in London» Messrs. J. and R. M*CRACE£N, 38, Queen St^
Cannon Street, B.C. '

BB7. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13

ROME.

J. P. SHEA,

ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT,

FORWARDING AGENT
TO H.B.H. THE PRINOiB OF WALES.

11, PIAZZA DI SFAGNA.

At this Office persons applying for

Large or Small Furnished Apartanents

i inraiiably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with

Lodging-HouseS; Boardmg-Houses,

and

Household Management,

while

Low and Fixed Charges

for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant,

as testified by the inci*easing confidence of English and American Travellers

since the opening of the establishment in 1852.

Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post

to peiMns who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the
' approach of Carnival or the Holy Week.

A3 CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT,

Mr. Shea clears and warehouses

Baggage and other effects

for trarellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or

luggage-train, directed to his care.
He also superintends the

Packing of Works of Art and other Property

intnisted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to Enajland, &c. ; and being

Agent for Messrs. Burns and Mclvers' Italian line of steamers, can offer

facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England.

CORRESPONDENTS-
LONDON Messrs. J. & R. M-CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.G.

Messrs. OLIVIER k CARR, 37, Finsbury Square.

LIVERPOOL Messrs. STAVELEY & STARR, 9, Chapel Street.

Messrs. JAB. MOSS k CO., 78, Tower Buildings.

; FOLKESTONE Mr. FAULKNER.

BOULOGNE S.M. Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paqnebots.

■ PARIS Messrs. L'HERBBTTE, KANE, & 00.. 8, Place de la Bourse.

\ MARSEILLES Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte.

' FLORENCE Messrs. HASICARD & SON.

NEW YORK Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway.

BOSTON .«..<.« ........Messrs. WELLS, FARGO, & 00.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

Aui

» ■ II «■.■»»•<»— —w

CHAMONiX.

GRASD HOTEL IMPI^RIAL

HOTEL ra^ETERRE.

HOTEL BE LA COUROSlfE.

HOTEL DE LONDRES.

The, above Hotels are now the property of a

JOINT-STOCK COMPANY,

WITH A SUPERINTENDING COMMITTEK 07 MANAGERS.

The new t*roprietor« of these

MAaNiriCENT ESTABLISHIIENTS,

the

LARGEST AND M08T IMPOBTANT AT CHAMONIX,

hare spared no expenM in fitting them t^ with every ootufoft Inodeni expenenc^

could suggest, as well as supplying an

EXCELLEMt OUIBINE,

under Control df a

FIBST-RA7E fABISIAH COOK,

and in forming a

CELLAR OF WINES OF THE HMBST QtJALITT.

The Apartments have been refurnished, and the Service is organised on the model
of the first Hotels in Switzerland, and is phiced under the

dii-ectioU of a

MAITBE D'HdTBL

of proved experience, an4 fully equal to the pnerpus doties of his positioii.

■<iiii—

PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, 0ATHS, AND

READING ROOMS

snpplied with the leading Journals of Europe and America, and arrangements f(

satisfy eveiy taste,

800 Booms, ranging from S tWoM • ted uUl npwaiidi,

1867.

MURRArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

VISITORS TO NAPLES.

.efiirBjftAt A6BircY & tomamov ofj-ich at the bbitiss ubbjay ,

PIBBCTBD BT

M. CERULLI,

TbImzo Priowi, No. 267, Riviera di OWaJa.

WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE

itewarted to ant recdved from «11 part* of the worM, and wgrehonaed M xooieMt ctuffges

of rent.

[■ BAXK SmS, ClBCTnUUt HOTES, AOT XETXEB8 OP CBEDIT

I- cashed free of commission,

€0umvKw 'wmmm or mvmMT mmmoutWTXow^

both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices,
FOBEIQN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS, ^o., IMPORTED.

; Aflenqr Basinew ^^eve^_ description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS.

HOUbii^, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners.

Owre«pwideats in londim—lleasrs. OUVIEE & CABB, 87, Fiiwlrary Square
„ „ Jans-Messra. JOHN AKTHUR & CO., 10, Rue CastigUone ,
„ „ Marseilles-Messrs. GIRAUD Freree, 42, Rue Sainte.

FLORENCE. ~ ~^

12, XFNG' ABNO NUOVO ; and 21, BORGO OGNISANTI.

AN6I0L0 & brothers' MONTEUTICI,

COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION.

S^LOItENdE.

MESSRS. PILUN8 & RITCHIE

^09 to amunmce that th^ have commenced
^ business in this capital as

GXXrEBAL AGENTS

AKD

Commission: '^txt\mi%.

ESSENTIALS

FOE

TB A VELLINa

Thresher's India Tweed Suits.
Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts.
Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Socks.
Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts.
Thresher's Travelling Bags.

SOLD ONLY BY

THRESHEK & GLENN Y

NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE
STRAND.

16 HURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ai^

VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT.

37, Finsbitry Square, London,

(Mb. Oliyieb xstablibked cc 1630,)

C0HHI8SI01I MERCHANTS AND GENERAl AGBIH

For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from aU Parts of the Woridt

and UCFOSTXBS OF WIHE8, ^.

rVLIVIER & CAER have the honour to inform
^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT

that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London,

Liverpool, Southampton, &c.y

WOHU of ABT, BAO0A0E, and PBOPERTT of EVXBY DX8C9UPZiai,

which are attended to on arrival
with the ntmott Care in Eramination and Semoval,
under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular stteotion to

their Moderate Charges,
which have given universal satisfaction.

Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in antidpaticn to whal
expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in £ngland, the following

Rates of Charges on the Receptloii of Packages

may be relied upon, for Landing from tiie Ship, Clearing, Beliveiy in Loodan,
and Agency:—

On Ti-unks of Baggage. ....•• about Si. eadu

On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about ISi. »
„ „ „ of larger „ „ SQi.to26e. „

On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estiiBait
cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble requirei

^ When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case.

OLIVIER & GARB undertake the

7OBWAEDI90 or PACXA0E8 OF EVKRT KUTO

to the Continent) to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if

required, until the arrival of the owners.

Also

THE EXECTjnOir OF OBDEBS FOB THE PITBCHA8E OF OOOIMI

of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merdiants, tbef
are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms.
Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering >DfJ
thing they may require from London.

-\ '•s.y^.rv/-

N.B. — The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to OUVIBR & Cl)
as everjrthing, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arri#

IKStJBAKCES EFFECTED, and Agency BnsinesB of every decer^titf

attended to.

18 HUBRlrS HANDBOOK ADTSffTISEB. 1

CHUBB^S Ixodes and SAfrEIS

CHUBB & SON,

Bi ATronnaum,
MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.E.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES.

CHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOB LOCKS, the moat sMnre fnnn
pIcUoda tai Uh Itejt, ue atmu, idmpK ■oA donble, ud rnidg of oil ■(■£> a ' ' -
ffrvry purpoie to vhlcb ft Lock cin be appUei

Tmoki, FortouDluiis, TnyeUlcg B^, Dnwlng Ouu, Wiltliig Deika, Ao. flUM. .

oDlj ifae anu] cDmmiia inil uttf ilj iDwcore Locki. cu turn Uh place or thae nqipUeil bi
Cltc»B"B POTEST wlllioni iLlleraHon or hjoij.
Tkjviu.res' Locii-PBuTECTUBa 4od PoiTULE SniJTonKH Lock* Tor tecurlag Dnon tlat

CHUBB A RIN have bIwbtb In lUck ivuletT oT Writta« Bod DeBpaldi Boia ta
UorocfD Dt RnsaiB Luiber uid jipEjined Tin \ Uie lAtUT being ptnicuUr^ rfoomaiKiidfld
n>r UgbtJWH, rouM. durobUlty, Bud rreedwi rrom damafB by Imecta or hot dJniBtak

Bwt Bluk n>«iii«1ii(J LMthtr nravelliag Bkgt of TBrion* dza, lU with
Chubb'i Patent Locka. CmIi, DMd, Ul4 Tspn BOZN of &11 dimeOsMis.

CHUBB'SPATENTSAPES
Bn cteilnicred !□ dw thj best

7, of tbB BOxxigat wiuQ^t-bm,

4naf b« ipMii ■ yni hut gotog. ATgnvil«fiitoBlHdlDfrm«'i^w««,BHinpiuBrBiHp«
ItoDUHJ IhaBlBimvdUiHHHin^HittHnbBWBtAHuahimDSd^

vndkaUjHon la muj WBji^bA ntaUDliuii Bad aulkB «0tat h< tobi dl^f^m wlili trtbHvka

tnMptite JlhiMnifcd Pri^ Liiti iiT C%uM'i LosI^, foiu, S^fA and lOir JAmij/b^^ J
ffmtii and pM(/rK. t

OHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of Eii^an4
67> St. Paol's Charohyard, London, S.O.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19

IMIIEDIATE RELIEF TO ASTHMA, CONSUMPTION, INFLUENZA,
COUGHS, COLDS, AND all DISORDERS op the BREATH,

THROAT, AND LUNGS,

.^^^^I^D^^SC^SSipli^^te^ A MOST

Cures op Influenza, Colds, Asthma, Consumption, and Diseases of

THE Chest and Lungs,

From Mr. H. Armstrong, Druggist, 8, Church Street, Preston : —

* Tbe oonntrj little knows the beneficial effects that are to be derived from them, or no one
with the slightest or most inveterate disease of the lungs would be without them. I can
with confidence recommend them, having seen so many hundred cases, in which tbey have
never failed.'

To SUf GEBS and PUBLIC SPE AKEBS Dr. tiOCOCK's WAFEBB

are invaluable.
They increase the flexibility, power, and clearness of the voice, remove hoarseneas, and
give great strength to the throat in resisting colds.
PxkeU. lid., 2s. 9d», and 48. 6<2. per Box. Sold by all Chemist&

INDIGESTIOir AND BILB.

The only effectoal and pleasant-tasting Stomachio ApsaiEKT and Antibujous Medicine la

DR. LOCOCK'S EXCELSIOR WAFERS.

H OctB promptly, tastes delightfully, and requires no restraint in diet or habits.

Sold at li. lid., 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d., by all Druggists, and by the Pn^rietors' Agentti
Da SIX.VA & Co., 26, Bride-lane, Fleet-street, London, £.C.

BORDEAUX.

H6TEL be NANTES,

QUAY LOUIS XV m.. No. 0.

FiBST-CLASS Hotel, most delightfully situated, facing the Poi-t, in the centre of
the City, near the Promenades, the Exchange, and Theatres, is fitted up in a most
saperior style, has a good Restaurant, and a large Stock of Wines.

Zatge and Small Apartments for Families and Gentlemen, Sitting Eoomfor

Conversation, ^c. ^c.

ATTENDANTS SPEAKING SEVERAL LANGUAGES.

MA7ENCK

fiBKBIT S^ECHT, Wine Xerehant and Grower*

This flrit-rate and excellent Hdtel (combining every English comfort), sittuite
in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the
Baalway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the
Bhioe and Mountains. Oalignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The
Table-d'Hdte is renowned for its excellence, and for its GtoiTiine Bhenish Wines
and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prioes.

. 0 2

1^0

MtJRRArS HANl)BOOK ADVERTISER.

Augiuiy

PLYMOUTH.

THE ROYAL HOTEL.

FIESX-CLASS FAMILt HOTEL,

iiiTaAT£a> m t&e most ooitMAKDiKo, HEAtTHFui^ AMD ^ssrtmi

QUARTER OF PLYMOUTH.
aufficiently far (/loe minutet) from ike maUm to ht fret qf its cmMyaacet*

HANDSOME CpFFEE-ROOM.
EXTENSIVE POSTING EST^LISHUENT.

CHARGES AS PER PRINTED TARIFF*
^n Omnibus aitends every Train^ wad (kutriag^ ifmieted*

S. PEAIISE, PBOJPRBffron.

»•«>

XjACEOIX and FALCOUNET,

J. LACROlXt SUCCESSOR,

WARRANTED WATCH MANUFAOTURilE,

2, BEIrAIB, Ist Floor, GEREYA.

Il Ifcl I » *. I ■!

OABTS nCPROTED l^OOKJSX
TOUBISirS T£LE800P£.

(See * Murray's handbook')

HAiruFAcriTEEB of aU deacriptioius of Mathe*
inatical, Surveying, and Optical Instrmnents,
for the use of I^iaval and Military OflScen, &c.
Also the new Binocular Beconnoitring Field
Qiass, in Alumtnlam of exceeding lightness
and durability, so highly spoken of by officers
and other gentlemen : from 11. Is. ; ordinary
metal from 22. lOs, Oarj'A improved Achro-
matic MicroKope, with two sets of dioioe
lenses, capable of defining the severe test
ol:t)ects; from 4^ 4c Traveliing Spwsfaicies
of all kinds.

Mathematloal and Optical Instnnaent
Maker to the Admir^ty, Trinity House,
Royal Military College, ^Sandhurst, Royal
Geographical Society, Christ's Hospital, and
^t India College. Agra, ice; and Optician
Ip tbe RoyM X<oodoa (^hthalmlo HospitaL

SitablisM upwards of a Centuy.

With Clue Map and VUob, 16iiw/8i. 6<i
MR MURRAY^

HANDBOOK

FOB

LONDON AS IT IS.

A Complete QtUde to oS the.OhjccU
<md SigkU of the MstropdliU*

JoBK MiTB&ATi Albemade Street. *

1867.

MaRBArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE,

LOiroON, 59, FLEET STKEET, E. 0.

> — — I - - - I

Besnlationd £w obtai&ing Foreign Qffioe PasBports gratis.

RESIDENTS in the country or
London, who desire to avoid trouble, can
tave PASSPORTS obtained and vised. Couiitry
BetidentSy by this arrangement, are saved the
trouble of a personal attendance, as the Passport
can be forwarded to them by Post (en Rigle).
Fee obtafaiing Passport, 1». ed. ; Visas, U. each.
J'Oiqmtc caar^utly Mounted and Cased, and
Name^ lettered thereon in Gold.

Panport Cases from Is. 6d. to 6b. each.

visas obtained to 0nited States Passports.
£▼•17 descripyoii of Requisites for Travellers.

THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS.

AuBtHi.w'8 Brztxbh and Gontikektal Guides and Handbooks to France, BelgiillDr
' Swttserland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, London, &c.
Bbadsbaw's Compi<ete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each.
Bradbhaw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5<.
B&ADsHAw's Handboolc to the Bombay Preddency eaad the North- Weat Piovince«rM«fra8,

and Bengal, lOs. each.
HuLAs'a, Lextthold's, and Ztbgle&*» Maps 6f Switzerland. MAts's IKap Ofmst Ttbou

Original Editions,
^piaoks. Rugs. Waterproof Coats, Dbor-fosteners, Handbags, FDrtmaateaw, Ssif,
™iie Books and Dictionartes.
Harpkk's Handbook to Europe and the East
Black's GmoES to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. "
Works on Health-Resorts, Climates, and Waters; By Eoww LEE, M.P.r Member of several

Medtotl Academies and Societies. «,_««.^_

Experleneed Couriers may be engaged upon appUoation.

'i W. J. AX>AMS (Bkadshaw's Bbitish akd Contikental Guide Qfsiob),
LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C.

.. Office Hours 8 to 7. Satijrpays 8 to 3.

qp&E COirtlKEirrAL BAUT FA&GSLS EXFSXSS (^stablish^ 1849),

* Sole Agents for England of the Belgian Government Railway and Royal
I*ru88ian Post-Oflfice, and Correspondents of the Northern of France Railway,
CONVEY by MAIL PACKETS EVERY NIGHT (Sunday excepted), vial DOVER,
CALAIS, and OSTBND, Samples, Parcels, and Packages of all kinds between
ENGLAND and EVERY STATE on the CONTINENT ; also, to the LEVANT,
MEDITERRANEAN, &c., at fixed Through rates, including all charges except
J>»ties and Entries, Tables, with full insti'uctions to senders, to be had gratis, at

Chief Office: «3, QBACEOHUBOH STEEBT,
^' K. Bridge, Manager, to whom all comunications should be addressed.

_ AGENTS AND CORRESPONDENTS;—

Wbsj 'Esd, 34, Regent Circus (Universal Oifice).

GWBB Express. 160, Cheapside, 7 q td- Wheatlet & Co

LeADIWHALL STEEBT, 150, i ^' ^- WHEATLET & U).

Makchbsteb; Schloesseb, 66, Fountain Street. LivEaiPOOL : Stately, 32, Dale Street. "^

^TttSisia, and all Germany.— The Post Oflflce of each locality.

JwlSinm.—OsTEND, 64, Rue St. Joseph : F. de Ridder.— Brussels, W, Montagne de la Cour :
A. Croot.— Rue Duquesnoy and North Railway Station.— Antwerp, Ghent, IjIEGB,
Verviebs, and ail other places in Belf?iura : Government Railway Station.

l^Uand.— In all the principal Towns : Van Gend and Loos.

'Tanee.— Paris, PRrrcHARD and Monnerov, Agents to P. andO.aiid Royal Mail Companies,
^ Rue Rossini. Boulogne, Rue de I'Ecu : G. Sauvage.

■ NJB— Amount of Invoices and out charges collected on delivery of parcel^ in Belgium.
Holland, Phigsia, and other States of the Zolivereln ; and parties wishing to obtain goods of
BOy Itibd fi'om the Continent can have them sent through this Express <' Contbb Rra!B0Uit8£-
mojx "—Payment on delivery.

^^ondon, 63, Gmcechurch Street, 1st May, tB^'I. "^

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

Augtufc,

Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency,

6, CHARIKG CROSS, LONDON, S.W.

Passports (which «r« gaed for life)
mounted on Muslin or SSk, in. Roan.
Morocco, or Bussia Case, with the
name of the Owner lettered on the
outside, thua {>reventing tqjniy or
loss, as well as lessening the ddicf ^
examination abroad.

For ftirUier pariicalars, inblading
the Forms of Application, Goat d
Passport, '^^saa. && hc^ see Stan-
ford's rauport Circmlar,

which will be fbrwaided per post on
receipt of One Stamp.

STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE,

Contalntag Title, Price, &c« of the Best Guidb Books, Maps, Contsbsation Boou^ Dtcranr-
ASnu, Ac. &c., published hi the United Kingdomi, the Conthient, and Amprira, Gratis on

application, or free per post for One Stamp.

Lohdok: EDWARD STANFORD. 6, Chabino Cbosb, aW.,
Agent fbr the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiral^ Charts.

THE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Circular Notes of £10,
£26, and £60 each, for the use of Travellers, payable in the principal Towns on ti»
Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and North and South America. No expense
whatever is tocurred, and when cashed no charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit
are also granted on the same places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury,
or at any of the Branches, viz. :—

Westminster Brandi,

Bloomsbury

Southwark

Eastern

Marylebone

Temple Bar

Lambeth

»»

1, St James's Square.
214^gh Holbom.

3, Wellington Street, Bonragh.
130. High Street, Whitedvq>eL

4, Stratford Place, Oxfbrd Street
217, Strand.

89 it 91, Westmtaister Bridge Road.

May 1, 1866.

Wh. EWINGS, Genena Manage.

BERLIN.

■•-•-

H O T E X. R O Y ^ r,.

Proprietor: Kr. mZDBIGR LAKOS/

UNTER DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and corner of Wilhelm Street.

This Hotel is in the best situation of the town, near the Promenade, the King's Theatre,
the Museum, &c ; it is most elegantly furnished, and offers good aocommodatioQ for all
classes ef travelleis. Saloous and large apartments for Fandlies. Waterworks and Baths la
the Hotel. Carriages. Table d'bdte at 3. Private dinners and suppers at any hear. Good
English cuisine, and French restaurant in an elegant saloon* Prompt attendance and mode-
rate prices.

i867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 23

-V

PaiflUy, Kaaeheiter, DaUin, ft London. '^

^^•;<

This favourite aortiole of Diet is especially suitable for

iHJDDINGS, CUSTAEDS, BLANOMMGES;

and, being reij light and of easy digestibility, it is
' leoommended for

BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, &c.,

h whicli it is easily prepared, requinng only to be boiled with
\ milk for eight minutes.

It is preferred for all the purposes to whioh the best Arrowroot
,iB applicable, and prepared in the same manner.

; For various purposes, such as to thicken Soups, Sauces, Beef-tea,
l^'i it is invaluable, and extensively used in all parts of the world.

OAITTION. — To obtain extra profit by the sale, other kinds are
sometimes substituted instead of BBOWK and POLSON'S.

24 MUBBArS HANDBOOK ADVBBTISER, Augiat,

BONN ON THE RHINE.

till * r'

UU. SCHMlT^,

PfiOPftlETOB OF THE GOLDEN STAB HO^Et,

Bbgb leave to recommend hig Hotel to English TravellerB. The apart-
nkents are famished throughout in the English style ; the rooms aro
carpeted ; and the attendance, as ^ell as thA kftchen and the wine-
cellar, is well provided. Ma. SGHMITZ begs fo add that at no first-
rate Hotel on the Bhine wiU be found more moderate ohacges and mors
deanlin^dssr.

The STAB HOTEL has been honoured by the visHs ef the following
Members of the English Boyal Family : —

{H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W.OoDsnmnury
Colonel PoNSONBT, Sir Frederic Staklkit, Dr. ABMexBOam, Ser. F. C.
Tabveb, Mr. GiBBS, etc
iftst Anff QA J H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite payiiig a visit at &» Ocldm
lODi. Aug.^-^ a-farifof*! to ffis Majesty the King of the BELGiASg,
IBil, Aug. 8 H.B.H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite.
185T Jal7 oo i '^« ^ H^* ^^0 Duchess of Oambridgb and Princess Mabt of Cucbbidcui,

^ ( accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite.

issf Jniv Oft i ^* ^ ^ ^^ Prince of Wales paying n visit at the Qoldm Star BbtA to

xwi. uuiy^i^ T.R.H. the Duchess of CaUbbidob and Princess Ma«t of Cambridw.

r H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, aooomptoied by the Right Hanonmbte C.

185T. July 16 \ Gbkt, General Majob. Colonel POnsonbt, Sir Fre^c Sxaklbt. Dr.

I Abhstrono, Rev. F. C. Tabvee, Mr. Gibbs, etc
ifiKA Vav i H. R. H. Prince Alfbed of GitBAV BRrrAiK, acbomplHiled by Ueatemuxt-
isao. «ov. . "^ General Sir Frederick Stovih and Lieutenant Oovsll.

IH. M. Aoelaide, Queek Dowagbe of Gbeat Bbttain, aeoonpaiiJed by
His Highness Prince Edwabd of Saxs Weivab. Lord and Lady Bai-
BiNGTON, Sir David Davdss, M J)., Rev. J. R. Woes^ M-jT/ci^nMn
Taylob, &c ftc., bououred ii» id)ot« etititMiihraept with a Thus
Days' Visit.
1818. May.. H.R.H. the Duke of Cahbbidob and Suite.
1825. Mardi ( H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clabskcb (King WlLzlAK ly. and

and Sept. . ( Queen Adelaide) and Suite.
1 floA Tniir S ^* ^' Q^^^^ ADELAIDE, aocompatded by the Earl and Coonteas of Ebbol
i»dft. J my. .| Earl and Countess of Denbwh, Earl and Countess How^ &C.
3836. Aug. , H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucesteb and Scdte.
1837. July. • H. R. H. the Duchess of Caubeidqb and Suite.

1839. Nov. , H. R. H. the Prince Geoboe of Cavbbidce and Stdte.
Vnv i ^* ^* ^* I*^ce Albebt of Saxe Gobitbg Gotha, aeoompaoiiid by Prfaee

— auY, • "^ Ebneot of Saxe Cobubo Gotha, and their Suite.

loin " /H.R.H. the Duchess of Camhbidge, accompanied by the Princess AuooBii

1840. ... .-5 of Cambbidoe, and their Suite. ^^ ««.ji.u««ra

It R. H. the Duchess of Kevx and Stdte, acboknpttitdd ^ B. fi. H. t^

Prince of LEiKDrGBN.
H. R. H. the Duchess of Cakb^idge and Sufto.
H. R. H. Princess Cabolika of Cavbbidge.
H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambbidgs and Suite.
H. R. H. Princess Mabt of Cascbbidob.

18M. Jun* .{^^p^c^f S^m ^"^ ^ ®°**** *coomp«iied by H.&H. *

1847. July '{^•^^***® '^^^ ""^ Duchess of OAmaUDcm; wltk their Fasdly sod

1841.
1841.

1844.

• •

1807. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25

MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY.

ii66KU FOB ALL HEADX&S.

flRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION

FOE A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS,

One G-Tiinea, per Ajiiiiuxi^

COMMENCING AT ANY DATE,

BOOKS FOR THE COUNTRY. ^

Book Societies in direct communication with MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY
ore now established in nearly every part of the country.

TERH8 07 STJBSCBIFTION : FOB THE NEWEST BOOKS-

l^lteea Yolvmes at One Time Five Ooineai per Annum.

And Tliree Voluiues for every additional Guinea,

FOB OLBEB B00K8-

Twemty-fiye Volwhes at One Time Five Guineas per Annum.

And Five Volames for every additional Guinea.

A Caialogae of Books, added to the Library from January, 1865, to the present time, con-
tulni^'g • very large and varied selection of Books in every department of Literature, is now
jttyty, and will be forwarded, postage free, on application.

CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE.

Purchasers of Books for Public or Private Libraries and Literary Institutions, at
liome arid abroad, Merchants, Shipping Agents, intending Emigi-ants, and others,
ax« respectfully invited to apply for THE REVISED EDITION OF MUDIE'S
CLEARA.NCE CATALOGUE. This Catalogue contains more than One Thousand
Popular Books of the past and present Seasons, cut and uncut, with a choice
Selection of Standard Works, at the lowest current Prices.

BOUND BOOKS FOR PRESENTS.

A Revised List of Works by S<iott, Dickens, Cai-lyle, Tennyson, Macaulay,
Kingsley, and other Popular Authors, selected chiefly from Mudie's Select
LiBRABY, and re-issued in Ornamental Bindings for Presents and School Priies, id
now ready, and will be forwarded, postage free, on application.

^^ All the Books in circulation or on Sale at MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY,
may also be obtained, with the least possible delay, by all Subscribers to MUDIE'S
MANCHESTER LIBRARY, 74 and 76, Cross Street, Manchester.

MUDIE'S SELECT LIBBAKY (Limited), New Oxford Street, London.

CITY OFFICE— 4, King Street, Cheapside.

•Tit''.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER,

Ao^sii

NOTICE

MESSRS. LETTS, as Agents to
H.M.'b Board of Ordnance and the Geo-
l(^ical Society, have during the last 40 years
b^n unceasingly collecting the BEST MAPS
firom every approved source, both at home
and abroad. Ihe following epitomised List of
Maps iB extracted from a Catalogue which will
be forwarded on receipt of a stamped addressed
envelope.
Travelling, Library, A Board. Room Maps.

Africa 60/ 21/ V 3/

America, N.&S. .60/ 21/ 1/ 3/

Asia . 60/ 21/ 14/ 3/

Australia 30/ 21/ 7/6

Austria 100/ 12/ 6/

British Isles ... 73/ 42/ 15/ 4/6

England 84/ 52/6 12/ 4/6

Europe 130/ 60/ 30/ 1/

France 40/ 25/ 10/ 3/

Germany 4{»/

Italy 47/ 5/ 3/

India 63/ 31/6 12/

Ireland 63/ 50/ 15/ 7/

London 55/ 42/ 15/ ' 6/

Paris 25/ 7/6 2/6

Scotland 73/6 62/6 12/

Switzerland .... 16/ 12/ 7/

I'urkey 100/ 13/ 7/

United States , . 73/6 25/ 7/

World 63/ 42/ 30/ 10/

Letts, Sok, & Co., 8, Royal Exchange,
London, £.C.

LUCERNE.

■ " 4 "■■'■■■

EN&LISOHEE EOF.— HOTEL

d'MQLETEBBE.

Proprietor— JEAN BEBEB.

OXFORD.

SPIERS MD SOlf,

108 ft 108» HiaH STREET,

STATIOKKSa, ftC.. BT AFPOtKTKSST «0 H.RR

T^HB PBiKcdB or Walks.

RespectfoUy inTite TOURISTS to VBSIT
their Extensive Warehouses for Useftl and
Ornamental ManufiBctuTes, suitable far Pre-
salts and remembrances of OXFORD.

Copies of every published GUIDE-BOOK
and MAP of Oxford and its neighbombood
kept in stock, as well as Photographs, Stereo-
scopic Pictures, Articles of Vertu, &c.

At the Great Exhlbitioos in liondoD,
1851-1862, Paris, 1855, and New Yoik, 18S3,
Honourable Mention or the Prise Medal was
awardtMl to their Ornamental Manufactozes.

Information relative to Oxford afforded to
strangers visiting their establishments.

THIS First-rate Establishment, very
well reconmiended by the best class of
Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers'
Landing-place, and vis-ii-vis the Railway Sta-
tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake,
with .superb views of the Rigi, Pilatuti, Alps,
and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62
comfortable Rooms, &noking and Reading
Rooms, where are French and English news-
papers.

Charge for Sooms per diem, Ifr. 00c.

toSfr.

Table d'Hote/ At 1 ... Sfr.

4'SO . . 4fr.
7*80 . . 8fr.

»f

»l

The * Times,' * Galignani* ^Vlndepen^
dance, the * Bund,' and other German,
French, and American papers are taken for
the Reading Room.

FLORENCE.

p. EOMANELLI,

Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, Oie late
Professor BartoUnl, has opened a Gallery.

. Lung' Amo 0aieciardiai, Ho. 7.

Th& intelligent amateur will find there a
Collection of Statues, both orlgiiials az)4 co(rfeik
artistically executed.

Principal Works:— The Son of William
Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Yomig Wasb^
ington ; the Young Whitttogton ; the Young
Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; GaribaldlL

GALIGNANI'S

NEW PARIS GUIDE.

Compiled from the best anthorities* levtseS
and verified by personal in^)ection, and ar*
ranged <xi an entirely new plan, with Ibp
and Platee. Royal 18mo. lOt. 6(1. bound; or
without Plates, 7«. 6<2. bound.

Londoa : Simpkin, Mabshall, & Co.

ROTTERDAM.

H. A. KEAMEBS,

Xmporter of rorelgn Books.

Mr. Hubrat's * Handbooks for TraveUot,
Bradsha.w's M(mtbly Railway Guides Has*
dbkeb's * Reischandbtlcher/ and Joamkb^
* Guides pour leg Yoyagenrs,' alwaya in
Stock.

EngU^ French, and Germeut Books ira*
ported Weekly, and a great variety of Nev
Books kq[>t in Store.

47, OELDEBSCHX XABE.

>BOOK ADVeRTISBR,

; PORTMANTEAUS.

;T strand, LONDON, w.c.

CATAiOaUES of 600 AETICLES Port Free

POBTKANTEAir,

AU^B'S SOLID

KAHOQAKT
DBESSniCMJASS.

Allen's Barrack Fumitare Catalogue, for
Officers joining, Post Free.

PRIZE UEDAL AWARDED, 1862,

FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE.

28 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

FURNITURE

FOR

IKDIA, OECIKA, 6cc

SEAL ^ $0(1

Hanufactare, ESPEaALLT FOR EXTREME CUMATES^

dOLID MABOOAN7 FURlHITUBBf

Entirely free from Veneen A large geneitd aflsortmoit dways te t$e«^.

In the Choicest Designs. 2500 Bedsteads kept in Stock,

«EAt * 9m^ PArarr

Pi*event8 the material from felting into a mass, as is the case in all ordisair
Mattresses. The Patent Mattresses ai'e made of the very best Horsehair, are '
thicker than usual, and the prices are but a trifle higher than those of other good ;
Mattresises,

ILLTTSTBATED CATALOGUES

Of Bedsteads and Bedroom Furniture, designed for INDIA and the EAST, mt

Post Free to every part of the World.

BEDSTEAD* BEDDHTG, AND BEDBOOM FUBKITUBl

, MAJnJFACTXJBEBS,

196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM-OOURT-ROAD, LONDON, W.

567. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29

TOBQUAX.

THE ROYAL HOTEL,

ITEWLT FUBHISHED THRQUGHOirX.

PRESENT PROPRIETOR:

MR, JULIUS NUELLENS

(Late of Vttelleiui' Hotel, Aiz-larCliapeUe}^

Who hm introduced into this well-known, old'^establiahed Hotel every
' • improvement of a first-cldfis Continentcfl Hotel

PAMTtlESV S'ASHIOITABI.E

(DRE88}

DAILY AT SEVEN O'CLOCK P.M*, AT

-A. SELECT X A, B X- E-^D'JEi: O T E,

Served h la Bnsse, in the splendid Great SALOOIf , with which a

La^iee' Drawing Boom is combined.

ELEGANT SOtB^ES DANSANTES.

f (A COMMn-TEEJ

JLadiaft' Coffee 2&ooin, Steadiiig Boom, and Bmokii^ Boom.
A fixst^rate Frezioh Clief de Cui^e, and exquAp^ Wine«.

tbhe Hotel's Onmibiui and Flys (marked NtTBLtiEITS' Boy«l HoUil)

moot every tr«iU.

fyfery ^epdrimmt mchr Mr.Kuellens* coniinml personal wpetinten^ienoe.

OAUHOH.— In aiist to avoid nuatake^i please to aak distkctly

for ITDIiLLEirS' Soyal Hotel.

S01 utntRAT's Handbook adtektiser.

JIAlNAfiD, HARRIS, & GRICE,

(Setural Oirffittfrs anil ^genJs for ^aflsajgM,

126, LUDENHALL STREET, LONDOM,

Aujomna tSB Orricu or tbi PmnDux u> Obdul 8rua B'^tbitxh ObpuJ

MATNARD, HARRIS, & GRICE, beg to draw the attentia
of Travellen to their l!:stBbli£)unent, » long uid fiT<wi>bl7 known for dt
BUperior qunlilj' of thpir goodi,

Eveiy descriptioD of Supplies rtqaired by TiaTellen always nadj.
Binj.OCE TBUVZB, OTZBLUn) TKUVSB, FDBTHAVTE&tn, te.
FOBXABIX BEDBTEAM, with Beddiog, Jic.,ccanpl«te, in W^erproofVilia
POBTABLE L&HPB. iADDhEIfl.
WZiSXSQ Af?i>AEI. of every description.

M,. U., k G. would eipccUIly noKcit an Inspection of tlw fbllowing article
specially adaplal for Tropical CiimatEB.

LETIFaX'8 AHn-KOSatnTO CVBTAIBB.

OAK OASIEEKB, containing Bi«it&3t Senice com]dete for Two P(noo>i
3J. 10s. to 5f^

OAK CABTEXITB, contaiiiiD; Breaklast ind Dinner Service CMD{4ete tar 1W
Persons, 51. 10(. to 9J.

IHSIA OAUZE UHSKB-CLOTBIKQ, manulactand spftitHj for wtu h
Hot Climates.;

FLANKEL OB 8IIK Aim WOOL SHIBT8.

VLAVHEL OB TWEED 6VITS. AIB-CEAHBSB HAH k S

JWf Partimilart ■and Priced iirfj upon af^ioatiat.
FwBOBsi Bngaged. Baggage Shipped, Cleared, and WareboSMl'
126, LeadebhaUi Street, Lonnos, E.G.

,867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31

300KS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS.

!HE K0&TR-WS8T PEKHrSTTLA of lOEUlin); being the JTonmal of

a Tour in Iceland in the Summer of 1862. By C. W. Shepherd, M. A., F.Z.L. With
|v a Mj^ and Two lUuatratioDs in Chromolithography. Fcap. 8vo. 7«. 6(2.

ISEATSH ntAClU; or, Pen and Pencil Sketelies in Italy. By the Authoress

. of *How we Spent the Summer.' With 42 lithographic Plates, containiDg about
SOO Sketches. 8vo. 16s.

low WE SPENT THE SUHMEB; or, a ^Voyage en^Zigiag' in Switier.

> land and Tyrol with some Members of the Alpine Club. From the Sketch-book of one
of the Party. Third EditioD, re-drawn. In oblong 4to., with about 300 Illustrations,
price 15«. cloth.

% GUIDE to 8PAIK. By H. O'Shea. Post 8vo., with Map, 15«.

bTTIBE to the PTEEKEES, for the nse of Mountaineers. By Ghables

Packs. With Maps, &c. New Edition, enlarged, nearly ready.

CS£ COMMERCIAL HANDBOOK of FEAEGE. By Frederick Martin,
Aixthor of « The Statesman's Year- Book.' With Three Maps. Crown 8vo. Is. 6d.

Om)B to the EASTERN ALPS. By John Ball, F.L.S., M.R.LA., late Pre-
ddmt of the Alpine Club. Post 8vo., with Maps and other Illustrations. [/n Xheprat.

GtriDE to the WESTERN ALPS, comprising Dauphin^, Savoy, and Piedmont ;
■'rtlh the Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa Districts. By the same Author. With an Article
on the Geology of the Alps by M. E. Desob. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c 7*. 6d.

GUISR to the OBEBLAND and ALL SWITZERLAND, excepting the Neigli-
\x>\urtaood of Monte Rosa and the Great St. Bernard ; with Lombardy and the adjoining
portion of Tyiol. By the same Author. Post 8yo., with Maps, &a it. 6d.

WORENCE, the NEW CAPITAL of ITALY. By Charles Richard Weld.
^ith 23 Woodcut Illustrations. Post svo. 12«. 6(2.

'SAKS, PASSES, and GLACIERS ; a Seriee of Exonraiona by Members of

the Alpine Clnh. Fully Illustrated with Maps and Engravings.

FIRST SERIES. Edited by John Ball, M.R J.A., F.LJ3. Square crown 8 Vo., 2 1«.;
or, Iftmo. {Travelling Edition)^ 5«. 6d.

SECOND SERIES. Edited by Edward Shirlet Keknedt, M.A., FJI.GJS. 2 vols.
Square crown 8vo. 42«.

NINETIEEN MAPS of the ALPINE DISTRICTS, from the First and Second SERiKa
of • Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.* Square Crown 8vo., in envelope portfolio. It. 6d.

:]tAP of the CHAIN of MONT BLANC, from an actual Surrey in 1863-64.
By A. Adaus-Reilly, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. Published under the authority of the Alpine
Club. In Chromolithography on extra stout drawing paper 28 in. by 17 In., price 10*.;
or, mounted on canvas in a folding case, lit. 6(2.

ALPINE CLTO MAP of SWITZERLAND and the a^acent Countries,

on a scale of jgjooo (S^^"^ TCiil^ to an inch), from Schaffhausen on the North to the

Southern Slopes of tne Yal d'Aosta on the South, and from the Orteler group on the

^t to Geneva on the West, constructed under the Immediate superintendence of the

' Alpine Club, and Edited by Mr. R. C. Nichols, F.R.6.S. Engraved by Alexander

|, KeiIh Johnston, F.R.G.S. \,In preparatUm.

_ V The First Sbxet, being the North- West portion of Switzerland, and comprising Bfile,
^ticerne, Interlachen, Grindelwald, Bern, Freiburg, and Neuch&tel, is expected to be ready in

liondon : LONGMANS, GREEN, and CO., Paternoster Bow.

32 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ai

RECONNOITERER" CLASS

"TOURIST'S FAVOURITE"!

Th6 best Landscape Glass in the Wogrjldt!

Is sent free to emif oMress in Oreat Britain or IreUmd/or IQs, lOd.l 1 1

It can alflo be sent at an adcUttonal expense (which in aaa» oases is trifiiiy) to any part ci ^
the Continent, as well as to Asia, Africa, and America.

Mabquis of Caemabthkn : •• The Eeconnoiterer is Twy good."

Eabl of Cuthness : " It Is a beautiful Glass."

EablofBrbadalbake: "Ifind it all yon say, and Wonderfully powerfiil ibf flo veiy fimiQ
a Glass."

Lord Gabvaoh : •♦ It is remarkably good." .

Rev. Lord Scabsdale •• approves of it."

Lord Ci.ermoot : •' It is surprisingly good for its price.**

Lord Gipfobd : *• A most uaeftil Glass."

Sir Digbt Catlbt : *' It gives me complete satis&cttotb ttoA U wObdarfaHy gpod.^

Sir W. H. Fielden : ** For its sixe, I do not consider it can be anrpasaed. It gltv9 ifKftt
satisfaction."

Major Starkbt, of Wrenbury : •• Quite as powerfW as that for which J gate «. 6*."

Capt. Sendet, Royal SmaU Arms Factory, Enfield: "l hate foond It egecVtve at the
lOOO-yards range.**

F. H. Fawkbs, of Famley, Esq. : " I never before, although I have tried matty, met aGlta
combining so much power, for its size, with so much cleaniess."

Our *• Archery Corrfjspondent " (Queen) says that " the portability of (he BectnuMMncr
Gloss is not its least recommendation ; while its adaptability to uses in which prbtnid^
and minute observation of arrows entering various ranges at different diatancos Is fuBO'
lutely necessary, as in archery matches, renders the Reoonnolterer one of the beat akia to
visual power ever placed at the command of toxophilites."— Qu«sn.

»• The economy of price is not procured at the cost of efficiency. We have ctt^iSvSly tried tha
instrument at an 800-yard rifle range, against all the glasses possessed by the nembert
of the corps, and found it .fully equal to any of those present, aithon^i they bad.ooet
more than four times its price."— TAe Field.

«What Tourist will now start without such an indispensable oonQ>aoleD?"-^<D<et Ofi
Queries.

Gatttton.— The extraordinary success of this InstnuMit tm flyia lipe^im ib^pA^
unprincipled dealers, to vile and worthies Imitationa.

The celeln-ated " HTTHE" Cflast thowt bullet Marks est 1900 Ttaardi, end Mm otHkMBtL

Price 31*. ed.

\* These Glasses form the very best Tourists' Oompaaions that can poaBftdy be stMbA $d
accordingly the number annually sold for the pnrpoae is enonaoos.

All the above, respectively bearing the Registered Trad&'in|DrkB, "Rwxatsaatam'
and "Htthe,'^ are only to be had direct from, snd by lorttten a^icfstim to,

8AL0M & CO., 98> Z^rinceVstreei, Sduiborgk;
137, Begent-street London, W.

A few hours suffice to oa,rni a ** Hecormmterer" to iHmost the rmMUd Vtttve ItiOf

Kingdom, Mok positively, no Ag&Us qf any Mnd cmywhert, , j^

186?. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33

FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES.

Traybllkbs may save ei^»ase and trouble by pnrchaaing Foreign Books Ui
England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France.

WILLIAMS & NORGATE

have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :—

1 CLASSIOAIi CATALOGUE,

3. THEOLOaiOAL OATA-

LOOTTS.

8. FRENCH CATALOGUE.

4. GEBMAN CATALOGUE.

5. EUROPEAN LINGXHSTIC

CATALOaUE.

6. ORIENTAXi CATALOGUE.
•?. VSAIAAN CATALOGUE.
B. SPANISH CATAL0GX7E.

ANY CATALOGITE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP.

VILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign BookSi

14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and
20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh.

9. SOrSNTIPIO CATALOGUE.

Natural History, Chemistry, Mathe-
matics, Medicine, ^c.

10. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele*
mentary Books, Maps, &c.

11. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi.

tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books.

12. FOREIGN BOOK CIROU

LARS. New Books, and New
Purchases.

13. SOIENTIPIO-BOOK CIRCU-
LARS. New Books and Heoent
Purchases.

Q EN EVE.

H6tel Beau Rivage et Angleterre.

Kept by Messrs. MAYER and KUNZ.

THIS splendid Establishment, jost constructed on a grand Scale, has the advani
tage of bang

THE HOST PLEASAKTLir dlWAlSD fiOT£t. tH (GENEVA,

ON THE QUA! DU MONT BLANC,

Near the English Church, the Steamboat Landing, and the Railway Station,
surrounded by the Jardin des Alps and delightful Promenades.

It contains 130 well-furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every variety, and had
15 Balconies; from its delightful Terraces, and from each Window of the Hotel^
Mont Blanc, the Lake, the new Bridge, and the Town can be seen in their iullest
extent.

The Charges are Moderate, and a reduced price for a protracted stay,

Poouiioxi in the Winter Konths.
Omnibus to and from the Station for every Train.

Table-d'Hote i, 5, AND 8 o'clock.

MtJRRArS HANDBOOK ADVERtlSER.

Augtirf,

NOTICE

Tourist's ft Passport Agency,

8. KOTAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, EjC.

MESSRS. LETTS undertake to supply
inteodlog Tnvellen either throned
thlA or ForeigD Ooiintriee with every infomaa-
tion that can be of service to them on their
route— relative to times and means of Convey-
ance, Conriers, Currency, &c.— and to provide
PASSPORTS with ihe requisite vitA with
the utmost promptitude and regard to eoo-
itomy. TRAVRLLKT18 to UTDlk or
the CONTIKENT may be provided with
the Neu^est EdiHom itf

ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN

GUIDE BOOKS^

as well as the most approved selection of

Maps, Both Engiiah and Foreign (tee separate

List), and with Polyglot Washing-Books,

Boote of Travel-Talk, and Dictionaries.

Truttworthy Courien vnU he reoommended

by giving sti0lcient notiee.

DUSSEL.DORF

ON THE RHINE.

HAYANXA SEGASS.

Mahlkb BfiOTHBBS & Co., T, Hincing Lane^
London, most respectfully beg to draw tiie
attention of the EkausH NOBnJTr and 6sk-
TST to Mr. ALFRED JACOBI'S well-asBorted
d^t of real fine

ill iiit SI

rt BOV9 db COaf

8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, RC,

Stationers, Travelling Desk Manufacturers,
Lithographers, and Agents to H.M. Board of
Ordmmoe and the Geological Society.

OF CHOICE BHAKD8

(Imported vid L(»don Docks direct firom H»-
vanna), at reasonable prices. Onten for all
parts €i Germany promptly executed.

Ur. ALFBEB JACOBI,

DtSSELDOEF,

19, SLISABESTHSN-STBA8SS,
CUne to the RaUway Stationt,

PARIS.
UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION.

WS. EIRELAND and CO., English Oommission Agents,
• 27, Rue de Richelieu, Gallery VII. — English Houses represented in Paris. Oara*
missions executed for all kinds of English articles. Patterns and Samples supplied. Begnljr
fixed despatches twice a week firom London, ensuring certain and rapid delivery of all axtidv
demanded. Weekly from New York. London Office, 23, Salisbubt Stbect, Sirand.

FRANKFORT O. tAi

MR.

C. A. LOHR,

PBOPBIBTOS OF

THE BOMAK EMFEBOB HOTEL/

Begs to reotmmiend his House to Eoglish TraveHen.

This large and well-situated Establishment is oondacted under the immediste
superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, lod
a new splendid Dining-room.

The ** Roman Emperob" is often honoured by Royal Families and other higb
personages. The following haye lately honoured this Hotel —

H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WUBTEMBEIU}. .

H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLANR

HJLH. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WUBTSaiBEBO.

HXH. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c ftc &c

Table-dliOte at 1, 111. SOkr. Breakfast, ftaiuP.

M N 6, 21t« Tea,

Bed Rooms, fhnu in. to 311«

1867. MUBRArS HANDBOOK ADVfeRttSER. 36

THE CONTINENT.

COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OP

DIFFERENT NATIONS.

Society of Couriers and Travelling

Servants.

Established 13 Yeass.

Patronised by the Boyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry.

12, BUBT STEEET, ST. JAMES'S.

This Society is composed of Members of different Nations,
all of well-established reputation, great experience, eflficienoy,
and respectability.

Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained.

Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other
Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the
usually required languages, speak Spanish, Eu&sian, Swedish,
Tiirkish,'and Arabic, — in fact, every Continental and European
language.

Travellers for any part can immediately meet with
Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the
Secretary.

^ COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS,

12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. ^

D 2

36 MCRRAirs HANDBOOK ADVEBtlSSB. Aagnit,

MILAN.

HOTEL GRANDE BRETAaNA,

VIA TOBIVO, Vo. 46.
Hen tbe Gfttbedral, in tlie centre of the CfQr.

This old-established Hotel, much improved of Ute^, is dean, oomfbrtabk, and
with moderate charges, close to the Eogtish Church. Newspapers (< The Times '
and * Galignani '), Table-d'hdte, and Baths. English spoken.

N3.^^The Omnibus of the Hotel is always in attendance at the Railway Stata<Hi«

tmrmtt^^trngmrmmmfaf^^m^

MILANs

HOTEL ST. MARC

A, RUB BBIi PKSCK.

' Sept by alex. bazzi akd sons (Joseph akd jeak).

THIS Hotel is situated close by the Post, the Cathedml, the
English Ghurob, the Theatre, and Royal Palace, and offers every acooimnodatioD and
comfort for single travellers and familie& Lai^ and small Apartments and sii^e Bed-
rooms. Table-d'Hdte, Private Dinners* aod ii la Ctirte, at moderate i>rioe& Beading-room
supplied with Italian, English, French, and German newspapers. Arrangement for families
con be made. French, English, and Oerman spoken. Oinnlbas at the Railway Statkn
belonging to the Hotel. Pension in Winter.

GENOA.

h6TEL DBS QUATRE NATIONS.

OSVASOO BROTHERS^ Proprietors.

*JlB1B Hotel can be etrongly recommeadedj it is in one of the best
ftitaatlQns in Genoa, and travellws will find there veiy good rooms,
moderate charges, cleanness, excellent Table-d'h6te, as well as private
service, with great attention and civility j the comfort of visitors being
6oQguItedL

J^nglUh e^hen hy tJie Froprtetm*.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 87

PAR, IS EXHIBITIOISr,

OPEN lat APBIIi, 1867.

LONDON AND PAEIS

By {he Accelerated Special Expreu Daily Direct Tidal Service,
V16 FOLKESTONE and BOnU)GNE.

THE dHEAPEST, QUICKEST, AND BEOBTEST ROUTE.
A Through Night Service between London and PariSi

yUk FOLKESTONE and BOULOQNE.
Jbr Hewn tf Departure (tcAAA ore vorfoMe), ttfhofk the aXme ServUet, ue 3%im Btok wndSdOit*

Also by the Hail Trains and Packets via Boyer and Calais

in 10} Hours.

COJITXJIJUTTAL SERVICES DAILY by the Short Seatand Xail Soutes.

The Mail Tndns of thig Company, conveying Xxj special afqtolntment the Continental Mails,
run to and start ihnn the Mail-Packet Side on the Admiralty Pier at Dover.

To avoid Inconvenience from ezaminaticm en nmUt Passengers shonld be carefal to order
the registry of their Baggage to Chariiig Groea per Sotdk-Eattem Ha^way.

■ II ■iwiii ■■ «■ I III! I ■■ ■ I II mi Bill I I I ■!

Bates f¥r Through Tichets.

LONDON AND PARIS RETURN TICKETS.

FIRST CLASS. 8E00ND GLASS.

By either Boulogne or Calais £4 7 0 £9 7 0

Special Through Ticleets hy Night Services at reduced fares, as follows :

CJBST CLASS. SECOND GLASS. TBIBD CLASS.

Single Ticket • » • 40/- 90/- W- available for 3 days.

Betnm Ticket » » « 00/- W- 80/- „ „ 14 days.

BELGIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, &c. &c.,

, By (he appointed Continental Mail Trains,
TOXm 8BSVXCB8 BASAT.

leaving Charhstg Cross and London Beidoe at 7-25 a.m. and 8'30 p.m. dally,
tid Dorer and Calais, a^d 7'25 A.H. aad 8*30 P^H., vid OttCDd, every day except
Sunday. --^_-_^____

THROUCn TICKETS ISSdED AND BAGGAGE REGISTERED

(With a free allowance of 56 lbs. each Passenger).

^ — •— - "— - - -■-■-_

TTTR FABGELS EXFBESSES eonyey Paroels to nearly all Continental
Destinations, at through Bates, as qnick^ as the Mails.

A Reduced and Revised Scale of Through Rates for Pabceus and Mebchakdise, of any
weight, between Lomdok and Pabib. A New Through Tariff, between London and Paris,
for Bullion and Value Paroels ; also. Rates for Value Parcels between London and Belgium»

nSRCnANI^ISS: FORWAROKD to BOUIiOCtNB.

TBE OTORLAND AND MAIL BOPTE TO DIBIA, CHINA, Jte.

"'^^s^N^mv^™''' 0. W. EBORALL, General Manager.

SILVER

HEDAl.

ERIE

ZeU
MANUI

PUBNITUBB OF KVBE-

CsANDBiiiEBa, Tabli
Pftper-knivea, P
and Holders, Pi

'"~ meters, &e,

QOBLKTB, Gandlg-bc
Biedin^, U6ne

BB00CBG8, Bbaoelei

stag and Deer Heads
CA

FtrEFiTCRE AHD Fa
Orders for a Con

promptly executed.

MCJRRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

An^usl,

MARIENBERG.
HYDROPATHIcTsTABLISHMENT,

NEAB BOPPAED. ON THE RHINE.

THIS Establifihment is in the immediate neighbourhood of
the Rhenish Railway Stations and lAndins^ Places 6f the Rhine Steamers, and Is placed

in the most delightful aTid smiling; situation in the whole of the Rhenish Provlnoes.

It Is very close to Coblentz, Ems, and Wiesbaden; and It has been known daring the last
28 years as one of the first, most elegant, and largest Establishments for Gold Water Core.
Long experience, extraordinary results, chinning arrangements and luxury, and, above aU. the
advantage of incomparable Water, has procured for this Establishmcint an European renown.

It is especially visited by the Nobility of all countries, who seek this pleasant spot to
re-establish or strengthen their foiling health, or to while away most agreeably the Bimuns
season.

DRESDEN.

HOTEL DE SAXE.

THIS celebrated First-class Hotel, kept by Mrs. DORN aJid
her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished, contains 250 Front
Uooms, with 200 Beds, and is situated in the centre of the town, Table-d*H6te,
best in town, Baths, Frirate Dinners at anjr hour. Arrangements for the
winter.

LAUSANNE.

■»> -

Hotel Gibbon : Mr. Bitter, Proprietor.

nPHIS First-class Hotel, bigbly recommended in every

"^ respect, is situated in the best part of the town, and commands the finest
and most extensive views of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery U'onnd
Lausanne. The ten^aced garden adjoining the salle>i'manger is unsurpassed bj
any in the neighbourhood, and was the favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote
here his History of Home. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out
and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this
house will be found to give very superior accommodation, and to ofier to travellers
a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn.

Pension at Beduoed Frieea during the Winter.

Hotel Richemont.

THE SAME PBOPBIETOR AS THE ABOVE HOTEIi«

This Hotel is of the first order, and situated in the -most beautiful position in
the Environs of Lausanne, surrounded by gai^ens and promenades, from whence
a most beautiful view of the Lake and the Alps can be had.

InclnBive Terras for the Winter Months (November till June),
C», Crf. per day j Children and Servftnta Half-price.

PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS FOR FAMILIES.

43 HURRAT>S HANDBOOK ADVERTISEB. Angmt,

PENZANCE, CORNWALU

MOUNT'S BAY HOTJSE

(ADjoimHO THE Quern's Hoiei,)
ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL,

Has been erected and fitted np expressly as a
8EASI DE

FAMILT HOTEL & J^ST-OMSS LODGING-HOUSE.

No expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor.
The house is furnished in the most modem style, is well supplied with Hat
and Cold Baths, and replete with every acoonmiodation suitable for Tourists to
West Comwall.

All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that

* Beauteous gem set in the stiver sea,'
St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay.

Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the oomfoiis of a home, while the
beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on
the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful ivsidence.
Suites of apartments for families of distinction.

E. LAVIN, Pbopriktob.

VICHY-LES-BAINS.

GRAND HOTEL DU PARC,

Proprietor, MB. GEEMOT,
OppoBlto the Bathf and the Park.

AS in Paris and London, Vichy has its Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel da Pare
of Vichy, for comfort, elegance, and convenience; is equal to any of the large
Hotels of Paris or London. Onmibus and Carnages at the Station.

Separate Suites of Apartments for Families.

DIEPPE.

HOTEL DES BAINS

(MORGAN),

FACING the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, qtiiet,
thoroughly reoommendable. A large private House also on the beach for Families,

WIESBADEN.

HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE ; Proprietor, Jos. Berthold ; near the
Promenade mod Koohbrannen. Mineretl Water Battu mnpUed bjr the Koohlraniien ; hjrga and metR
Apartments for Families, and excellent Bedrooms fSor single GenUemen. Ttils House has been known fltar many
years among tbe^<(« of English Visitors to Wiesbaden, and it is still conducted in Its anoient atvie of eosniiii
and eteganoa. Highly rsoommended br the author of the ' Babbles Ikxxn the Bmnnans of Naasan and Ktirai^
Handbook. Price very moderate. After the seaaon, Apartmenia are let in this Hotel on tiie aanM
private iqiartments in the town.

1867. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43

^^— ' ■ ■ - ~^fp— »»»^ 111 II m

DIEPPE.

HOTEL ROYAL.

FACING THE BEACH.

Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. ^

IT IS ONE OF THil MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS
IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the
Sea.

Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish-
ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo-
dation, at very reasonable prices.

The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality.

In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the fieivourable opinion
expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books.

Tahle-d'Mote and Private Dinners,

PASSAGE OF MONT CENIS.

SUSA TO ST. MICHEL

(and vice versd).

MR. JOSEPH BOEGO.

Carriages can be obtained for the crossing of Mont C^nis, from Susa
to St. Michel, or vice versdy on application to Mr. Joseph Bobqo at

TURIN— Grand H6tel de TEurope.

SUSA—H6tel de France.

ST. MICHEL— Railway Station and Hotel de la Poste.

Carriages of all kinds, to bold 2, 4, 5, and 7 persons.

Travellers will find this the most comfortable and least fatigumg
way of crossing this mountain, the passage being made in the same
time as by the Coubieb.

♦,♦ Travellera mil altcays find at the Station of St. Michel an Agent of
Mb. Bobgo, on arrival of the train.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

Augnst,

VEN ICE.

GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA.

Moet centrally sitOAted, close to the Piazza S. Maboo (withoat croealDg a dni^ Bridge^

the principal Theatres and Orarches.

The HarEL VICTORIA, entirely rebnllt and improved, oootaina 180 Bedrooms* laiige and
small Apartments, ftimished with every modem requisite beanttfol pablic Sitting Booans^
Smoking and Billiard Booms. Table-d'H5te, Baths.

Ckarga oorwicfem&Iy mors madercUe thaln in amtf oihetftrtt-raU taUMUhmeiU.

nOBMUT aTKBWSBa&Oa

MILAN.

'^~<m

BEPOSITOBT OP TINE AETS AND ANTIQUITIES.

(Bnglts^ ^ncg for ^jintsl wxli <6tt(tal |nformatum.
HOTEL AOOOMHODATIOir OB PRIVATE AFABTICEITTS

Secured for Families.
Mr. C. MANINI, 10, Cobsia del Giabdino, Milan.

ANTWERP.

GB^D INTEBNATIONAL ALLIANCE HOTEL COMPANY

(LIMITED).

HOTEL ST. ANTOINE,

PLACE VERTE.

THIS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, so well known to TRA-
VELLERS, haying become the property of the above Company, has been
thoroughly improved and modernised. Baths have been erected, luid a Bestaanint

established.

The extensive assortment of WDTBS, many of whicb are of great age, were
selected with great care and judgment by the late Proprietor, Mr. Sghmitt-
Spaenhoyen, and have obtained' for this Hotel an European reputation.

A Superior Cuisine and Table d'Hote.

Carriages of every description. — Attentive Servants,

Beadiiig Boom and Smoking Room, supplied with English and Freadi

Newspapers.

1867. MITRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45

METZ.

H^TEL I>E L'ETJItOPE.

XS. XONISB, PBOPBIXTOB.

Thk firei^ftte Hottl, much fte<{nented by Families and Gentlemen, dtoated In tbe finest
part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, is replete with eveiy comfort:
tlie apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanliness,
good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons^ Reading, and Refreshment Boomis; Table
d'fidte at 1 and 6 o'clock ; Breakfasts and Dinners at all honrs. Advantageous arrangements
made with Families during the Winter Season. In ^nt of the Hotel there is a fine extensive
garden and large courtpywrd. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Otnnibuses and carriages
belonging to the Hotel convey passengervto and ftom the Railway Station. English, FreoMch,
ItaUao, and Qennan qwken. Moderate prices.

MILAN.

Hotel Oavotti:*, I^lace Cavotuf,

Opposite the Public Gardens.
KEPT BT J. STTABBI AKD C0»

this new and magnificent Establishment is fitted up with every modem appliance, and
situated in the finest' and most pleasant part of the City, close to the Station, the Grand
Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Chtin^ The interior is perfect, and com-
Igrises Baths on eadi floor, a Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers.
Bzoellent Tabte-d'Hdte. Charges very moderate ajod aflSxed in each room.

Omnibus of thft Hotel at the arrival of all trains.

Hanagdr-^. VALLETTA.

DIJON.

PBOPBIETOSfiU-BIPAB]) BB0TEXB8,

ffas heen newly Furnished, and entirely Refitted thrcuglvoutt

SITUATED IK THE CENTRE OP THE TOWN.

LABaE AND SMALL APABTMENT8. GARDEN BEHIND THE HOTliX.

TaUo<4'Koto at 10 a.]n* and 6 p^u,

CARRIAGES FOR DRIVES IN THE TOWN OR COUNTRY.
N^^AOcfor tte Onrn&mqfthtBotAnnikt wrivalqflM Trakk

VIENNA.

LEOPOLBSTAM.

QrHwtftW Two Hmidred richly famished Apartments, varying In price ih>m 60 Kreatsers to
6 Florins, together with Ooffee, Billiard, and Bmoidng Booms; also Saloons for Beading and
Beioeatlon, provided with all the best Journals of England, Germaigr, and France. Post
Qffloe, Government Telegraph Office, and Photographic Studio on the Premises. Bestaurant
ft la carte, at fixed prices at aU hours. Elegant carriages always ready for the convenience
of travBUters. and ^milbnseB constantly mnxking to the BaUway Stations. This Hotel, the
Iiurgest hi Vienna, oiferd the most desiraUe advantages to travellers, as, iiraqpective of ita
excellent accommodation, it is situated in the most pleasant and finest part of the town.

manaf en and Proprietors} Much and jnaj^er*

46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. August,

ANTWERP.

HOTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR,

PLACE DB MEEB, 26.

THIS old-established and liighly-recommended Hotel, which
has been ooosiderablj enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest aquai-e
of the city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and the excellency of the table-d*hote and
wines, added to the attention and ciyility shown to all Tiaton, haT« made it
deservedly popular,

II i_ %

HOT AHD OOLD BATHS.

ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS.

WILDBAD.

{Fio0 Leagues from Pforzheim,)
<o»

H6tel Blumpp, formerly Hotel de rOurs,

Mb. W. KLTJMPP, Peopeibtoe,

THIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons, and 170 Bed-
rooms, with a separate Break&st and Heading Room, as well as a rery
extensive and elegant Dining Room, Artificial Garden over -the River, is situated
opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the
Pi-omenade. It is celebrated for its el^ant and comfortable apartments, good
cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread. reputation as an excellent hoteL
Table-d'hote at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers k la carte.

EXCHAKGE OFFICE.

Correspondent of the principal Bf^kin^houses of London fbr the payment of
Circular Notes and Lettei« of Credit. During the season it is the office of the
Diligence to Pforzheim Station of the Baden Railway, which leaves Wildbad for
the Courrier and Express Trains, and retmns from Pforzheim after the arrival of
these trains. Through Tickets issued, and Baggage Regi&totd^ to and £rom most
of the principal towns.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47

PARIS.

HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES
ET D'MGLETEREE,

8, BUE D'ANTIN,

Near the Tnileries^ Place Tendomcy and the Bonlerards*

This magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and
elegantly furnished in the newest and most fashionable style,
surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded to it
by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and comfort of
its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine, and the care and atten-
tion shown to all who honour the Hotel with their patronage.

LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE
ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES.

PRIVATE RESTAURANT.

SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SALOONS, READING AND

SMOKING ROOMS.

LETTEB-BOZ. INTEBPRETERS.

HORSES, ELEGANT OARRLiGES, OMNIBUSES

FOB THE RAILWAYS.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERtlSElJ.

August^

FBEtBUBG in Bresgan, Duohy of Baden.

HdTEL SOMMEB, Zahringer Hof,

Newly built, opposite the Station; finest yiew of the Black Forest and the
Vosges ; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel.

Pi-oprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER.

AMSTERDAM.

BRACK'S DOELEN HOTEL— Situated in the Centre of the Town,
and most convcnknt for Visiton on ideasure or burinon. It ccanmaods a cplendid view
of the Quays, &c. ; and, being condaded on a liberal scale. It is patronised by the highest
classes of society in Holland. It is also much fiequented by English TnvellerB for the com-
fort and first-rate acoonunodation it affords, as well as for the invariable civility shown to
visitors Ck>ld and warm baths may be had at any hour.— Carriages for hixe.^T«ble ^Hdte
at half-past 4, or dinner k la carte.

BADEN-BADEN.

- IP* ■

H6tel de HoUande : Proprietor, A. Boessler.

THIS favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Pro-
menade, and Theatre, oommands <Bie of the most charming Tiews In Baden. The incroaao of Tmrilnnw
rendering it neoesBary to enlaiige the Hotel, it now oonaistB of more than a hundred deefring apBrlinenti,
elegant aittlngHroams, and a garden far the tiae of viaiton. CSomfottable Public Sitting Booms. It ii t*m-
docted nnder the immediate snperlntendenoe of the Proprietor, vho endeaTOors, by the most strict attention
and exceedingly moderate prioee. to merit the eontintied patranage of BngUah TUton. ' The Time*' and
other Jonmals. The Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the test quality in fiaden. Fixed moSmwMtimrgm
foreverything.

BraakftirtrOitt.861creataen:Tea.4Slai. Table d'HMe at One, 1 iL ft4 kr. ; aft F<m^ 1 i. 48 kr.

Mr. Attgustus, remaining sde Proprietor, will spare no pains to desoTB the eonHtoicB of fttgUrii TasffOea.
JbagUak is spokao. j.^

Open diurliig the Winter*

BZABBITZ.

h6tEL de FRANCEi

And the magnificent Maison Grarderes.

Pbopbietob, Mb. GABDERES.
npHESE two first-class Establishinents are delightfully

fdtaated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Ch&teau, the Baths, and in
the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with
every comfort and convenienoe that can he desired by English or American Tnii-
reUeL-s. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English.

Carriages fbr Etonxsionfl in the Pyrenees ftnd Spain.

Table-d'H6te. * The Times ' newspaper.

18S7, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49

TURIN.

GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.

PEOPRIETOES--

MESSRS. BOMTTI AND OASALEGGIO.

Situated^ Place da Chateau, opposite the

King's Palace.

THHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel
has been entirely refurnished to afford great comfort,
and in the very best taste, and thus peculiarly recommends
itself to the notice of English travellers.

EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE, at di o'clock.

Without Wine, 4 fr. ; Dinner in Apartments, 6 fr. ; Breakfast,

with Tea or Coffee and Eggs, 2 fr.

I ■ M ^ m^

REDUCED TERMS FOR A LENGTHENED STAY.

Interpreters Speaking all the European Languages.

CHAKGES MOBEBATE.

THE XIM3ES NETTSPAI^JBR*

An Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every

Train.

so MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Augtist,

London and Sonth-Westem Bailway,

LONDON STATION, WATEELOO BKIDGE.

The Cheap and Plotuxesque Boute to

PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN,

Vid SOUTHAMPTON and HAVRE.

Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the laet Train from London at 9 pjn.

Parez througJiout (Tjondon and Paris)— First Class, 28/0; Secohd Cl.AfiS, 20/O«
Return Tickets (available fur one month)— FrssT Class, 50/0 1 Sboond Class, 36/0<

Additional Sailings afttr 1st Junt,

JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO,

KAIIi 8EBTICB.

Vid SOUTHAMPTON—The famurite Route.
Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.

Fares thi-oughout (lx)ndon and Jersey or Guernsey)— 31/0 FnwT ; 21/0 Second Culsb.
Return I'ickets (available for One Month)— 48/0 Fibst ; or 35/0 Seookd Class.

The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m.

For further Information apply to Mr. De VouUe, 3, Place Venddme, Pttria.— Mr. LangstalT,
47, Grand Quai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleun^Mr. S. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr.
Spanier, Guernsey. — Captain Oaudin, St. Malo.-— Or to Mr. E. K. Oorke, Steam Placket
Superintendent, Southampton.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE.

JAMES MISSIBIE, Proprietor.

THIS long-establisliod and well-known Hotel, situated in the
GkAND \WE m: PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the UNRI-
VALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every oomfort lUid conreaience for the

occomraodatiou of Families and Tourists.

A Select Table d'Hdte.

In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN
CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached from all parts of
Europe, and passengers who select this agreeable route to and from INDIA and
the EAST, it is requested that families desirous of securing roonis tel^raph or
write in anticipation, Eveiy attention will be paid to instructioDs thus trans-
mitted.

CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPEETEBS FOB ALL

LANGUAGES.

The Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers^

1867.

MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

DORRELL & SON'S

15, CHARING CROSS, S.W.

Every HJiformation given respecting Travelling on the Continent.
French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language.

Brittsh Subjects visit-
ing the Continent will
save trouble and expense
by obtaining their Pass-
ports through the above
Agency. No personal
attendance is required,
and country residents
may have their Pass-
ports forwarded through
the post. A 'Passport
PaosPECTUs/ containing
every particular in de-

tail, by post, on applica-
tion.

Passports Mounted,
and enclosed In Cases,
with the name of the
bearer impressed in gold
on the outside ; thus af-
fording security against
injury or loss, and pre-
venting delay in the
frequent examination of

I'q^^M the Passport when tra-

=i£l'' veiling.

Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. ; Visas, is. each. Cases, is. 6d. to 5s. each.

THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAV'S HANDBOOKS.

English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket-
books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va-
riety, of other Articles useful for Travellers.

THE .AuTHEIVJEUM:.

EVERT SATURDAY, OF ANY BOOKSELLER OR NEWS AGENT,

PRICE THREEPENCE.

Each Half-Yearly Volume complete in itself, with Title-Page and Index,

THE ATHENiEUM

JOUKNAL OF ENGLISH AISTD FOREIGN LITERATURE,
SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS.

Contains : — Reviews of every important New Book — Reports of the Learned
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Foreign Correspondence on Subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art
— Criticisms on Art, Music, and Drama — Biographical Notices of dis-
tingaished Men — Original Papers and Poems — Weekly Gossip.

THE ATHENiETTM is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in
respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality in point of information with
the best-informed circles of the Metropolis.

Subscription for Twelve Months, 13s. ; Six Months, 6s. Qd, If required to be
gent by Post, the Postage extra.

Office for Advertisements—

20, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.O.

E 2

52 iroRRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, August,

ESTABXiISHED 1854.

THE ORIGINAL SOCIETY

COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS,

440, WEST STRAND,
LONDON, W.G.

rpHE NOBILITY and GENTRY are most respectfully informed that,
deeply impressed with the responsible daties devolving upon Couriers and
Travelling Servants, a limited number of respectable Englishmen and Germans
have formed themselves into a Society, to which no Member is eligible unless of
strict integrity, general information, experience, and good behaviour in previoua
engagements, which can be authenticated by reference te Employers,

At the same time they beg to infonn the Nobility, Gentry, and Families that
experienced Sei-vants of the above class, of the highest character and integiity, may
be engaged at

LEE & CARTER'S

440, WEST STRAND, 'W.a,

where a large collection of
MURRAY»S AND OTHER GUIDES,

liIAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, &c., IN ALL LANGUAGES,

And everything' required by Traveller, is kept in great variety,

AND ALL INFORMATION ABOUT PASSPORTS CAN BE OBTAINED.

1867. MURRATS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53

LUCERNE.

HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors.
TKB liABOEST HOTEIi IN Sli^ITZBRIiAND.

IBest Situation on the Quay» with splendid view of the cele-
brated panorama of the Xiake and Mountains.

''PHE high, reputation which this establishment enjoys among

A Ti-avellei-s, and especially English and American families, is the best and
strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense
DiniDg-Roora, with adjoining Garden, Salou, and large Parlour, attract the attention
of every Visitor.

Beduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later
parts of the Season.

HOMBOURG.

HOTEL VICTORIA, close to the Springs and the Kursaal, is one of
the flneat and best situated Hotels. The Proprietor, M. GUSTAVE WEIGANA, who has been for
many years in first-clas3 Hotels in London, offers to English traA'cUera a good house, with eveiy comfort.
Excellent Table-tVhote and good Wines, at moderate charges. Kix)nge Baths, N.B. — All kinds of Wines
aro exported to any part of England, particularly his excellent Sparkling Wines (nice and dry, which are
expressly prepared for England), caUed Victoria Sparlding Moselle and Hock.

GENEVA.

HOTEL I>E luA. OOITRONIVE.

Proprietor, C. ALDINGER.

THIS FIEST-OLASS ESTABLISHMENT, just newly fur-
nished and fitted up throughout, offers Travellers a most extensive view of
the Lake of Geneva, Mont Blauc, &c., from its position at the head of the magni-
fisent new bridge.

Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen,
Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. Tables-d'Hote at 1, 5, and 7 o'clock,
English and American newspapers. The Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train.

BRUSSELS.

The Establishment of MdUes. 0. DE VERGNIES ET SCEURS, successors of Mr. VAN-
DERKELEJT-BRES30N, No. 26, Rue des Parvi-jsiena, close to the^ Cathedral of St. Gudule,
Is very strongly recommended.

54 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. August,

VEVAT (Switaerland).

Dit des 3 Couronnes,
Messrs. 8CH0TT & CO., Proprietor!, axid Suooessors to Mr. Monnet.

THIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to
the Lake, allbrds superior accommodatiou for Families and Gentlemen. It is
extensively patronised for its comfoi-t and cleanliness. Persons remaining some
time will find this a most desirable Residence ; and fi-om October 15 to June 1 they
can live here moderately en pension. Reading-room well supplied with papers. AU
languages spoken. Salon for convei'sation and music. Billiard and Smoking Rooms.

BALE.

HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS.

PROPRIETOR, Mr. WALD.

THIS ancient and justly-renowned first-class Establishment
is situated on tlie Rhine, and commands an extensive view of the Jura, the
Beach Forest, and the Vosges, so that the eye may with one glance take a peep into
Switzerland, Germany, and France. The House is comfortable in every respect.
Reading and Smoking Rooms newly aiTanged. Warm Baths. Mr, Wald does all
in his power to render the sojourn at his house as pleasant as possible. The
Omnibuses of the Hotel are always in attendance at the Railway Stations.

LUGANO, SWITZERLAND.

HOTEL ET BELVEDERE DU PARC.

Kept by A. BEHA.

THIS first-class HOTEL contains 150 Sleeping-Rooms and
Saloons, all elegantly furaished ; " Salons de rdunion ; an English chapel ; and
one of the most beautiful Gardens in the country. The Hotel is very agreeably
situated for the two seasons. During the winter the Hall and landings are warmed.
Great im})rovements have been made since last year, by the addition of new Public
Rooms, and numerous Apartments for Families, with every comfort desirable.

BADEN-BADEN.

V I C T O It l"ir HOTEL.

Proprietor, Kr. F&AN2 0RO8HOIZ*

THIS is one of the finest built and best fiimislied Pirst-class
Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it
commands the most chai-ming views in Baden. It is repated to be one of the best
Hotels in Gei-many. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance
and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKRTISEU. 55

IRELAND.
. AlVTItlM: AIMVIS HOTEL,

PORTRUSH.

THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted
view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, tUe Skebribs, and Louqh Foyle.

It contains upwards of 100 Apartments^

Principally facing the Sea.

A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM,

with Drawing-Boom attached, equally available for Ladles and Gentlemen.

Table d'Hote daily during the Season.

Caisme and Wines Flrst-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken.

Billiard and Smokisig Rooms*

THE SEA BATHS,

ISdcently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every
modem Improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower,
and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience,
visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention.

Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel.
A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and back daily during the Season.
Visitors to the Hotel are respectfully requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM
ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of
Passengers to the Hotel free.

J. BROWN, PllOPRIETOB.
Portrusk is ike nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causeicay.

ME. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STRAND. LONDON,
W.C., gives Practical Instruciion in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply
Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossil^, on the following terms:—

100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays db'2 2 0

•200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays 5 6 0

300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers 10 10 0

400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with twelve drawers .... 21 0 0
More extensive Collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to TOO Guineas each, with every
requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of
which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts of the world.
■ • A Collection for Vive Guineas which wiU Illustrate the recent works on Geology by
Aasted, Jukes, Murchison, Phillips, and especially the new edition of Lyell's ' Kleiuents,'
contains 200 Specimens, in a cabinet, with five trays, comprising ibe following, viz. : —

MiNEBAi.3 which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally imbedded in them : —
Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar,
Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontia, Salt, Cryolite,
Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c.

Native Metals or Metallifeuous MiNEaAXS: these are found in masses, in beds, or in
veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivei-s. Specimens of the following are contained in
the Cabinet : — Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Piaiina, &c,
KocKS: — Granite.Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Saiidstones,Limestones,Lavas,&c.
PaLuSOZOIC Fossils, from the Llandeilo.Wenlock, Ludlow,]Devonian,and Carboniferous Rocks.
Seoondaky Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups,
Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay, Crag, &c •
In Uie more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select.

LECTTTHSB ON HINERALOOT AND OEOLOOT

at King's Collf.qr, London, are given on Wednesday and Friday Mornings from 9 to 10.
Those on Mineralogy begin early in October, and terminate at Christmas. Those on Geology
eommence in January and continue till June. A shorter course of Lectures on Mineralogy
and Geology is delivered to Evening Classes, from 8 till 9. These begin in October and
terminate at Easter. Mr. Tennant accompanies his Students to the Riblic Museums and to
places of Geological interest in the country.

56 UDRRAT'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Augtut,

GENEVA.
No. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES.

GEO. BAKER,

ENGLISH CHEMIST & DRUGGIST.

PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. ALL KINDS OF PATENT

MEDICINES AND PERFUAIERY.

EomcBopatiiio Preparatioiui. Soda and Saratoga Water.

Owing to the facilities accorded by the * Postea Federates^ Medicines
ani Preparations of all kinds are forwarded with the greatest despatch
and safety to all parts of Switzerland and the Continent.

GENEVA.

0 '

HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE.

GONDUCfED BT MB. WILLIAM WOLBOLD.

This large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favour-
able quarter of the town, opposite the English Garden, and near all the
principle edifices, enjoys the finest view of the Lake, in its full extent,
and contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting-rooms in
every variety.

A beautiful Reading-room, where all the chief English, American,
French, and German Newspapers are to be found, with a spacious Ck>firee
and Smoking-room ; in short, every comfort travellers may expect from,
a first-rate Hotel, is at their disposition.

The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer,
and in winter is well heated by large stoves.

Charges very moderate, and Pension during the winter.

Table-d'h6te three times a day, at 4 fcs. each person, at 1, 5, and
7 o'clock.

Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel to and from the Station for every
train.

Private Carriages and Cabs always ready.

1867. MORKArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 67

BRUSSELS.

HOTEL M BELLE VUE.

Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL.

npHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every
kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of.
being situated adjoining

THE PALACE OF THE KINQ,

and facing

THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK.

It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single
Booms.

Table d*Jtdte, richly served. Choice Wines.

SMOKING ROOM.

RBABINO BOOM, with the best Belgian, English, French,
German, and American Bailjr Papers and Periodicals.

Terraces^ with Splendid View overlooking the Parle

ARBAK6EME17TS MADE FOB THE WHITES.

Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the
confidence placed in him, by a carefully an-anged system of prompt and
civil attendance, combined with moderate charges.

M I

58 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. August,

FLORENCE.
BRIZZI AND NICCOLAI'S

PIANOFORTES, OP THE BEST MAKERS,

FOR SALE AND ON HIRE.

GENERAL DEPOT FOR WlND-INSTRUtViENTS.
Italian and Foreign SKuslc.

Musical Lending Library.

PIAZZA MAIX)NNA. | BRANCH HOUSE (Music DfiFdx).

PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. | 12, VIA CERRETANL

• •

ZURJ^CH,

HOTEL BELLEVUE AU LAG.

Proprietor: C, GUYER.

^HIS splendid and admirably conducted establisliment, situ-
ated on the shore of the Lake, commands, by its ansurpassed position, the hat view of
the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior iutemal arrangements, the comfbrts
of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and quiet attendants— all
desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sctjoam.

Pension ai reduced prices, and arrangements made for families from Odobat to Jvly^
fi^aiee* — 195 Apartments facing tke Imke.

GENOA.

h6tel d"^italie.

Madame F. TEA, Proprietress.

Via del Campo» No. 10*

"•O

H'^HIS Hotel, formerly the Eaggio Palace, is one of the
cleanest, best situated, and most comfortable in Italy. It has
been fitted up with the greatest care, and in such a manner as to
secure every possible convenience and luxury.

The front windows command a splendid view of the Harbour
and City.

English, French, and German spoken.

Table-d*h6te at 4 francs, and all other charges strictly mediate*

The Hotel Omnibus attends the arrival of every Train.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59

*"' ■ "^ l^-- l.-^« ■■■■I 11 ■■■■■* IIIMM... .Ill ^M- ■■■■■ ■!- I ^-. ■■■"-"■- — - ■ — ^ —

LUCHON (BAQNERES DE), PYRENEES.

Grand Hdtel Bonne-Maison et de LondreSi

Mr, VIDAL, Jim., Proprietor.

Sitaated opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and
first-rate Hotel affords extensive aocommodation of the best description for a large
number of visitors. It is delightfullj sitaated, and will be found most comfortable
for Families or Gentlemen.

HEIDELBERG.
HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.

THIS New, Magnificent, First-rate Establishment, surrounded

-^ by private aod public gardens, with the view of the Castle, and the veiy best
situation of Heidelbei^, enjoys ah'eady an European reputation.

HJSVELI-GUJXB, Propnetor.

NEAR TO LAUSANNE.

H6TEL BEAU RIVAGE.

SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OP

THE LAKE OF GENEVA.

LUCERNE.

Q WAN HOTEL.--Tliis Hotel, in the very best situation,

*^ epjoys a high character. Mr. HiEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years
A great many improvements, and does his possible to offer to his visitors a comfortable
borne. An elegant new Ladies' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room.
By a week's sojourn, j^en^ion arrangements.

DRONTHEIM, NORWAY.

HOTEL B'ANGLETERRE,

THBONDLYEM.

FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, SITUATED IN THE FINEST PART OP THE TOWN.

AFABTHENTS k SDTOLE KOOHS. TABLE D'HOTE.

ENaLISH SPOKEN.

60 AiaRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. August,

GENOA.

HOTEL DE FRANCE,
KEPT BY ISOTTA BROTHERS.

LAKGE and small Apartments, Table-d'hote, Private Dinners
at a fixed price, or a la Carte Reading and Conversation Rooms. Baths. Onmibos
for all ihe trains.

GENOA.

h6teu national
kept by isotta brothers.

UITES of Apartments and Single Eooms, Table-d'li6te, Pri-
vate Dinners at a lix»Hl price, or a to Carte, liatha. Advantageous terms for a long stay.
Same Ilovuie at Naples, Hotel de Geneve, Place Medina.

ATHENS.

HOTEL DES STRANGER S,

Kear the Royal Palace.

In the most delightful situation, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The best Hotel
in Athens. Moderate prices ; good attendance. All languages spoken.

Wl ESBADEN.

■» > ■■

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS.

PBOPBIETOB, DB. ZAIS.

'I'^HIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the

-*• Rliine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square.
opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling
Sprin«2j and tlie new English Chapel.

This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of

SPLETOID AND OOMFOETABLE APAETMENTS,

for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Winee,
combined with attentive service and moderate charges.

TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIVATE DDnJERS.

Numerous comfortahle Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot, Minerdf^

and Sweet Waters,

FBATER-SOOK, *i::

ALEEMABLK STlIKK'f.

62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Aagnst,

SCENCE MD AET DEPARTMEOT

or TBM

SOUTH KENSINGTON.

nPHE Lords of the Committee of Council on Edu-
cation have passed the following Minnte on this subject,
and invite the attention of travellers and tourists to it. The
object which the Department has in view wonld be much
aided, if such travellers would have the kindness to send
notes of any remarkable objects which may not be described
in * Murray's Handbook;* the notes being made out in the
following form, and sent in a letter addressed to the • Secre-
tary, South Kensington Museum, London, W. :' letters so
officially addressed may be sent unpaid; and printed forms
will be supplied, if written for. — Form — 1. Subject; 2. Lo-
cality ; 3. Site ; 4. Description ; 6. Date ; 6. Condition ; 7.
Dimensions ; 8. Reference to any fuller account published or
otherwise.

At South Kensington, the first day of December, 1864.

By the Right Honourable the Lords of Her Majesty's Most
Honourable Privy Council on Education,'

Eeproduction of Examples of ArcHteotural Decoration.

L My Lords take into consideration what additfonal examples of Aichi-
tectnral Decoration, as well of British as of Foreign origin, it is de&irabb
should be obtained to complete the collections in the Soms Kensxkotoh
HusEUH, and with this view they desire to have the adTantage of the
advice and suggestions of the Institute of British Architects, the Aichi-
tectural Museum, and the architectural profession generally.

1867. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63

SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEU M-oontimed.

II. The objeotg of Decorative Art especially referred to are :—

a. Ornamental Sculpture in Marble, 6tone» or Wood.
6. Wall Decorations in -Painting, Mosaic, &c.
e. Hammered and Chased Metal-work.

d. Ornamental Pavements in Mosaic, Encaustic Tiles, &o.

e. Examples of Stained Qlass.

nr. It is desirable that the objects should be the finest specimens of
their class, complete in themselves, and not too large for exhibition ; and,
by way of illustration, it may be stated that oasts have been obtained of
Archbishop Grey's Tomb from York Cathedral, the Priors* Gateway in the
Cloisters of Norwich Cathedral, the Singing Gallery in Exeter Cathedral,
the Pulpit of Giovanni Pisano from the Baptistery at Pisa, the Ghiberti
Bronze Gates at Florence, and the like.

IV. The finest typical works in Stained Glass and Mosaics might possibly
he reproduced in materials like the original, and the same observation
applies to Hammered Iron-work. Other reproductions may be obtained by
means of Casting, Electrotyping, and largo copies by Painting and otherwise.

V. In respect to objects of Northern MedisBval and Eenaissance Art, in
which the varieties of style are very numerous, it would he desirable to form
in the first instance a list of a few of the finest examples which illustrate
each epoch of the Ait and each class of Art. And in the formation of such
a list, the experience of the different Architeotural Societies and Architects
would be of tho highest utility.

VI. Besides making a collection of such reproductions as proposed, to be
exhibited in the Museum, My Lords will cause to be compiled general Art
Inventories, briefly naming the most remarkable objects which are known
to exist, and showing the locality and site where they may be seen and
studied. Photographs may be added occasionally to illustrate these inven-
tories.

VII. These inventories will be kept in type to admit of revisions and
additions, and only a few copies will be printed from time to time. Copies
will be sent to the Architectural Societies, and to any Architects who may
apply, and be willing to contribute notices in aid of their completion.

By order of the Lords of the Committee of Council on Education.

HENKY COLE, Secretary.

MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.

August^ 186'

THE ORIGINAL PASSPORT AGENCY.

LEE'S POLTGLOT

WASHING
' BOOKS,

(To saT«.the titmblo

of translating

Wuhing BillB).

For Ladies or
Gentlemen.

SnQUih A French.

J^liA A Qtrttum,

Buglitk A Ralian,

BnoUih A Spanith.

EnglUh S Poriuffuett,

SPONGE BAQ8.

XSTALLIO
SOAP BOXES.

Wsttrptoof Cflfvtf .

KNAPSACKS.
FLASEa

PASSPORTS

Proenred, mounted on linen, and Ingerted
in moroeco oaae8» stampcxl with coronet or
name at the shortest notice, and forwarded

MOORE'S

GERMAN

IHTERPBETEB.

With the exftct

pronanciation in

RngHsh in a separata

column, ficio cloth,

or 09. in leather.

byjpost.
VuaB(

obtained and informati<« given.

The latest editions of Murkat's Hand*
BOOKS kept in the original binding, and in
limp leather, more oonveuient for the
pocl^tk at Sa a volume extra.

Tbtotwortht Courbiebs akb Tbatslloo
SuvABTi can be engaged at

MANUSCRIPT &
ACCOUNT BOOKSJi

Uetallie and oth«
Pocket

i/ttirP9^ Hoi^eld.

SOOB rA8TSNBR&

Patent Inkstandi
and light Boxes.

ELASTIC BANDS.

LEE & CARTER'S
GUIDE AND TRAVELLING DEPOT,

440, WEST STBAND, W.O.

BailwayBugS)
STRAPS,

XOHST BAGS ft

BELTS.

PUBSEQ,

WALLETS. AKD

80VEBEIGN

OASES.

TBJLTZLUXa
TELESCOPES,

and SpeetaelM.

TWO DOOSa W18T Of TBI LOWTHBft
▲ROADl.

Where an extensive Collection of

GUIDES. HANDBOOKS, MAPS.

OBAUXABS, INTEBPRETEB8,

. WORD AND PHRASE BOOKS

In most of the Continental Languages, and
every article necessary for home and foreign
travel is kept in great variety.

AIL THE NEW AKD STAITDABD
B00E:S FOB RAILWAY BEADIHO.

MOROCCO AND RUSSIA ROUL-UP
WRITING CASES.

Foreign Paper,

ENVELOPES, &Oi

Pocket Pen

ABD

KELLER'S AKD
LEUTHOLD*S

MAPS

SWITZERLAND.

StUBER'S
HOHTE BOSA.

MAYR*S
TTBOL.

ESTABLISHED 1832.

LOKDOX r W. CLOWES AND SDKS, STAHFORD STREET, AJO) CHARR^G CBOSB.

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