Skip to main content

Full text of "A hand-book for travellers in central Italy; including the Papal states, Rome, and the cities of Etruria"

See other formats 


Google 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 

to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 

to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 

are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  maiginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 

publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  tliis  resource,  we  liave  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 
We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  fivm  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attributionTht  GoogXt  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  in  forming  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liabili^  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.   Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 

at|http: //books  .google  .com/I 


^^^^d 

M 

^■f 

3 

■j 

■ 

■  •«.      ^ 


'  ».  \  ■ . 


^ 


'  V 


*  .♦ 


Xtal  alZ&.S'a.3 


HAND-BOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 


IK 


CENTRAL  ITALY; 


nvGLUDiNa 


THE  PAPAL  STATES,  HOME, 


AJXD 


THE  CITIES  OF  ETRURIA. 


BY    OCTAVIAN    BLEWITT. 


QtSCtI  K  CrxdeHing  Map* 


SECOND    EDITION,    CAREFULLY    BEYISBD. 


LONDON: 
JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 

PARIS:  GALIGNANI  &  CO.      STASSIN  &  XAVIER.    FLORENCE:  MOLINI. 

1850.  , 


:B*.)  ZIZS.So.^ 

YDS    riiOLISB    EPITinNS    OP   THH    HAND-DOOKS 

FOB    TKAVEIXERS 

l^  '^'' '  ^      /«  Germany,  BoUand,  and  Belgt 

«m,  oi 

sa«j»]__" ';,m;™' '-"°"- 

iSUfS"^  f 

^;,i\?.%«.. 

yi^^n,'s"J'". 

S';i^VA*r.NTAW« 

BSSSSu    ::«;SSf!l!;j_K™. 

MUNlof        : 

l"t  E  RA  b"S-H-A  HTl  ST 

i™rK  ANSTALT  * 

\  =*"■»"'  ■ .  ".-l-SiSSSA."'" 

VS^^""'   : 

KA  HTLE«EN  A  G    BBC 

S;f  ::Ei?"""' 

SSi^KDAM : 

cA«.if;^''''- 

r-NVrF^^"'^'^'  "'" 

URATE                 '.   '.    DAHMN  AlKinijS. 

VIEN™*"^    '. 

aBAUMbl.I.EIl   &    «K1 

TIIM  KAOITG     .  .    VAN  HTOOBUlll. 

iiBl,i  0.  UEnnu),  1 

BASJUUBu'   :  .  fBiiraK8.''iuisseB,  t. 

ROHRirAN,  B-JIUUX 

BuRuSiCS            . 

BBIDBLBEiUl.   ,     J. cl^D.  HOUR. 

■                                              In  Italy,  at 

^^^c'^s     -^SS"'^ 

"r^Esvo  .^ 

•iHs^ 

"vAsAbcCH?,^'  '" 

^KaNTCIA           .    .    KBUnETTI.  FRtfRES. 

mSb""    : 

?Lna'nj1J""'m^" 

^mNl.iirMEBLE!" 

^^r                                        LINARIi  T,  H.r.VAl- 

^H                                               I-tHDIi   TENDLUn   (l[ 

^B                                              SCHAtl'Kll. 

TUHIN                 : 

fSSS; 

HSF^^     : :  li^&'ii^^'Sl^l-oo. 

H    '                                       /»  France,  at 

H^^^gg"'  5j,^|»r- 

Ksa.    ■. 

^               ""I'pi^y 

ORLEANS 

.     (lATlNEAU;  I'KBTV. 

^^F' ; :'  oH'^.?^. 

I'ABIS 

"'IVSl^^l."^' 

.     ArEeS,    AUG.  BASS 

■    i^nVii/A^SFSirr 

■    PES^f^'""""- 

^B^^^ROUb'.  ;    LKSScHOoftAHT. 

K'.'K^'.ESNg    : 

:    LEbSSSbNT. 

BT.  WAI.O           : 

:  hT"""^ 

H^f    ■. '.  "^^^i&i^K^'i^. 

£?ii2^£?JllS : 

.    BOLOV. 

^Bo^B^^'"    ^^^"f""""' 

fs^i"  ; 

:    HAl.l.dN,  H.LEBo" 

^B                                           In  Spain,  at 

^HMaDHIDj  BV  CBO.  UOMER.                                         CrsaALTAR,  BV 

GEORGE  B0W9WEU- 

^K                                     /n  Switxerland,  at 

^Hhauit           by  sauj:ri.aendeb. 

^B^l            ....    Tg'jjWArig^ 

:    Bt^R^gfe 

.    BEUTEH. 

^^g^^SN       ■.  .    j;"uB^t.-„^,uDtB,I>BS 

5.^S5BRTri.«-: 

.    SSSfN^ET^" 

KoiIANn/     ::i.lSS'lii^«..WKBE».    i    ^''"■^"      ■      ■ 

''■iSSi'ilot^'r-"- 

^r                                           /n  Sustia,  at 

J#T.rer=«sBr«,>H.  Rv^^;.H.w|_,^-.   ,    «««cmv_    .  b 

'^.ii^'^^SSH 

^^                        /n  Constantinople,  bt  j.  j.  wick.           "^H 

("^JUL    6   1912  J  D         -i-,    .,   ■      ,     _ 

^        -^-TREFACE 

THE    FIRST    EDITION. 


The  volume  now  submitted  to  the  public  is  intended  to  supply  the 
traveller  with  a  Guide  Book  to  the  Papal  States,  including  Rome 
with  its  Contorni,  and  those  cities  of  Etruria  which  lie  between  the 
Amo  and  the  Northern  Campagna.  It  includes  also  the  two  great 
roads  from  Florence  to  Home,  by  Perugia  and  Siena.  It  was  ori- 
ginally intended  to  comprise  the  Papal  States  and  the  kingdom  of 
the  Two  Sicilies  in  a  single  volume  ;  but  as  the  work  proceeded  it 
was  found  impossible  to  do  so  without  making  it  too  bulky  to  be 
convenient  to  the  traveller,  and  destroying  its  uniformity  with  the 
rest  of  the  series  which  has  been  honoured  with  so  large  a  share  of 
approbation.  The  Central  and  Southern  States  of  Italy  are  per- 
haps of  greater  interest  than  any  other  part  of  Europe :  it  has 
therefore  been  considered  more  desirable  to  describe  them  in  sepa- 
rate volumes  than  to  pass  lightly  over  their  historical  scenes,  or 
curtail  the  accounts  of  a  large  number  of  provincial  cities,  whose 
names  are  scarcely  to  be  found  in  any  other  Guide  Book.  The 
present  volume  is  on  the  exact  plan  of  the  Hand-Books  for  Ger- 
many, Switzerland,  and  Northern  Italy,  but  is  the  work  of  a  dif- 
ferent author.  It  is  the  result  of  two  journeys  into  Italy,  and  of 
an  anxious  desire  to  do  justice  to  the  country  and  the  people  by 
studying  their  characters  on  the  spot,  and  by  acquiring  a  personal 
knowledge  not  only  of  the  great  capitals,  but  of  those  remoter  dis- 
tricts which  are  rich  in  historical  and  artistic  associations  beyond 
any  other  portions  of  the  peninsula.  The  account  of  Rome  will  be 
found  arranged  on  a  more  systematic  plan  than  has  hitherto  been 
adopted.  Instead  of  describing  it  in  districts,  the  objects  have 
been  classified  under  separate  heads,  in  order  that  the  traveller 
may  be  enabled  at  a  single  glance  to  ascertain  how  much  or  how 

▲  2 


Blhtle  it  contains  of  any  particntar  class.    The  materials  for  t)us 
■portion  of  the  work  were  collected,  in  the  first  instance,  during  a 
L  midence  in  the  capital  for  a  considerable  period  in  1B37  and  1838, 
Kai  have  been  verified  and  enlarged  by  two  subsequent  visits. 

Id  b  work  of  this  kind,  embracing  so  great  a  variety  of  suttjccts, 
there  must  necessarily  be  deliciencics.  Any  corrections  or  addi> 
tions,  the  result  of  personal  observation,  authenticated  by  the  names 
of  the  parties  who  are  so  obliging  as  to  communicate  them  to  the 
"  Editor  of  the  Hand-Books  for  Travellers,"  under  cover  to 
Publisher,  will  be  IhonkfuUy  employed  for  future  editions. 

The  volume  which  will  follow  this  will  include  the  continental 
dominions  of  the  King  of  Naples,  the  roads  leading  into  them  from 
the  Papal  States,  and  the  islaud  of  Sicily. 


line, 'fct'^'MiiniUiu 


1 


INTRODUCTION. 

].  General  Topography,— 2»  Government. — 3.  Ju8tice,-^4.  Itevenue,-—'5.  Ecde^ 
tiaatictd  Eit€ibU»hment,^^6.  Army  and  Navy, -"I*  EducaHon.~-'8,  Commerce 
and  Manufactures.  -^9,  AgricvUure.^—\0,  Charcuiteristics  of  the  Country, -^^ 
11.  Pelasgie  Architecture. — 12.  Cyclopean  Architecture.—^IS.  The  Etruscans, 
-^14.  The  Romans.'— -15.  Christian  Architecture,  — 16.  Christian  Sculpture. 
—17.  Scho<^  of  Painting. — 18.  Books, — 19.  Chronological  Tables, 

1.  GENERAL  TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  Papal  States  are  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Lombardo- Venetian 
kingdom,  on  the  east  by  the  Adriatic,  on  the  south-east  by  Naples,  on 
the  south-west  by  the  Mediterranean,  and  on  the  west  by  Tuscany  and 
Modena.  The  superficial  area,  according  to  Boscowich,  is  18,117 
Roman  square  miles :  other  authorities  compute  it  as  13,000  or  14,000 
Italian  square  miles,  of  60  to  a  degree,  and  it  has  recently  been  estimated 
by  government  surveys  at  13,017  Italian  square  miles.  The  population 
in  1826,  by  the  government  returns,  was  2,592,329  ;  in  1833  the 
Raccolta  gave  a  population  of  2,732,436,  showing  an  increase  in  the 
seven  years  of  140,107,  being  at  the  rate  of  20,015  per  annum.  At 
this  rate  of  increase  the  population  in  1847  was  3,012,646,  giving  to 
the  superficial  area  of  13,000  miles  a  ratio  of  rather  less  than  240  souls 
for  every  square  mile.  It  is  calculated,  however,  that  only  a  third  part 
of  the  surface  is  cultivated,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  country  is 
yrery  thinly  inhabited.  Of  its  numerous  rivers,  the  Tiber  only  is 
navigable  :  on  the  coast  of  the  Adriatic,  the  Tronto  and  the  Me- 
tauro  are  the  most  important,  and  the  mouths  of  a  few  others  serve  as 
harbours  for  the  light  fishing  craft  of  the  gulf.  The  two  great  ports  are 
Cinta  Vecchia  and  Ancona ;  the  ancient  harbours  of  Terracina  and 
Porto  d*Anzo  have  been  rendered  useless  to  vessels  of  large  burden, 
by  immense  deposits  of  sand.  The  principal  lakes  are  those  of  Thra- 
simcne  or  Perugia,  Bolscna,  and  Bracciano. 

The  territories  comprised  in  the  Papal  States  have  been  acquired 
at  various  periods,  by  inheritance,  by  cession,  and  by  conquest.  In 
the  eighth  century,  the  Duchy  of  Rome,  which  constituted  the  first 
tem|>oral  possession  of  the  Holy  See,  was  conferred  by  Pepin  and 
(liarlemagne  on  Stephen  II.,  with  a  large  portion  of  the  exarchate  of 
Ravenna,  which  they  had  conquered  from  the  Lombards.  The  duchy 
extends  along  the  sea-coast,  from  Terracina  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber, 
and  includes  the  southern  Campagna,  the  Pontine  marshes,  and  the 
Sabine  and  Volscian  hills.  In  the  eleventh  century  the  Duchy  of 
Benevcnto  became  the  property  of  the  Holy  See,  by  the  cession  of  the 
eoipcror  Henry  II.  to  Leo  IX.,  in  exchange  for  the  revenues  of  the 
city  of  Bamberg.  In  the  twelfth  century,  the  allodial  possessions  of  the 
countess  Matilda  passed  by  inheritance  to  the  church  ;  that  portion  of 
them,  which  is  well  known  as  the  Patrimony  of  St.  Peter,  extends  from 
Rome  to  Bolsena,  including  the  coast  line  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber 
to  the  Tuscan  frontier.    The  march  of  Ancona  and  the  dxieVv^  oil 

A  3 


IXTnoDL-CIIHJf.  —  Govti-iii-:'  lil. 

X  nUn  Inctuilcil  in  lliia  fiimous  tloimcion.    On  the  return  «f 
If  \in\iiin  rroin  AviKimn,  and  on  the  subsequent  subjection  of  the  m*)]' 

* ut  llomignn  nnd   Umbrin,  other  imporiant  dirtricts  gradnall; 

in  Ihu  imwer  of  the  church.    In  1«3  ihe  pope*  obtained  p» 
oflh*  [Thnclnnlilj  nrPontecorvo,  in  tbc  kingdom  of  N'a^  ;  M 
IHI  ttid  tame  pnnod  IVragia,  Ortieio,  Cittii  Ji  Castello.  anil  mUi^ 
IH  (lapMidniit  tawn*  Bcknowlcdgcd  the  papal  soveicigntj :  and  tiM 
HiiiiiHl*  ai  JiilliM  l[.  ndd(.-J  10  the  dominions  of  the  Holjr  8«e  tfw 


Jni|IIIHli 

■piiriinl  dlirrlri*  nf  Ilologna 
Wlliv  I'lipHl  Ituopi  hi   \Mt;  l-LTriirn  wns  Eeizet 
IT  IMtln'i  Hl>ill<uti-d  In  fMvour  of  the  church  in  IG 
tivcil  their  lait  additions 


I    llrl, 


Hdlj- 

id  Ravenna.     Ancona  was  occupi^ 

rriim  vnn  Rnied  in  I39T:  the  DukB 

few  ytan 

the  fiefs  of  Cutro 


tin 


irh  were  wrcslcU  from  the  Farncse  hy  Innocent  X. 
lionii  iKttiCBuions  of  the  popes  when  the  Frawk 
!•  whtifp  (y-item  of  Italian  government.  Into  tbe 
III  tUiii  I'vi'nl  in  the  elalca  of  the  church,  it  k 
I'i'li  i.iil  .  ii  i-.  sufficient  to  sny  that  ihe  popes  w«« 

iLr' close  of  Ihe  EuropKinwur  io  I61V 

<l    I  .1.     ol  ilu^  Holt'  See  have  from  that  time  t«- 

il-,n.)  iirli'cli;  IdSoflhe  Treaty  of  Vienia. 

I .  I  ilir  1  fuly  y^KO  ihc  Marshes,  with  Ouncrino  and 
ilip  iliiehy  of  JJtncveiito  and  |he  principality  «f 
ii.c  of  the  inmc  orticlc,  the  Holv  See  reamed 
;iii.Mi»  ..f  Ituveiuin,  Buliv^na,  and  Fermra,  »«»^ 

.    I" .y  MtuBicd  on  the  left  hnnk  of  the  P«v 

■  '■:■■'      .11,  together  with  the  right  of  garrisoMfc 

''      •: tchio.     Tlie  protest  made  by  CanUiii 

■I  V  iiiiiiii,  in  favourof  the  ancient  I 
1  dciiil  letter;  but  the 


Icl  hy   Alii 


n  the  g 


«  I'.. 


-,.,  Diijilicd  to  the  enure  eilv, roused • 

u   111.    \\nA    States,  nnd  ft  feehng  of  Bjnnpalhy 

,  .JI. ,  wIulIi  inuiually  rcdorcd  Fermra  nnd  its  ganum 

VTIlo  (HatM  •ro  divided  In(o  twenty  provinces.  The  first  is  the 
MUUVa  uf  Itoiiic,  incluiUnu  witliin  its  jurisdiction  the  three  districU 
f  Itomo,  Tlvull,  and  Subiuco.  TJic  other  nineteen  are  divided  iato 
HO  cluMen,  l.euaiionii  and  Dcle^iiliunn.  The  Legations  arc  governed 
y  CarJInaU,  nnd  Ibo  Dvlcgiiliniin  by  Monsignori  or  Prelates.  There 
I  Lcn«tion:  Boloenii.  I'trrora.  Forli,  Kavenna,  Urbino  (witll 
Peinro},  and  \'u>k'tri.  There  lire  thirteen  Delrgaliout,  Aucons,  M»- 
1,  Cunicrinn,  Fcrino,  A«coli,  Peruaia,  t^iiuleto,  Ricti,  Vitertxv 
to,  Civitu  Vrcchia,  Froiinoiie  (witli  Pontecorvo),  and  Beneveoto. 
ach  province  in  divided  into  coininunca,  and  eleven  of  them  are  divided 
3  districts  (iliBtreltO,  with  pcculbritiei  of  local  government  which 
'  "e  dcscril)eJ  hcretdler. 


limited  elective  hierarchy,  the  head  ofwhUh  is  the  Pope,  «ho 
II  bytte  Coll^  of  Cardinals  out  of  tfaar  Pwll  bOtly. 


i  iNTaoDCCTi<))r. —  Governmenl. 

Bpolelo  were  iilso  iiicluileJ  in  this  famoiiB  donation.     On  l!ie  return  of 
the  popca  from  Avignon,  Bnd  on  tlic  subsequent  subjection  or  the  petty 

Erincei  of  Romagnu  and  Umbria,  other  important  districts  graihially 
:tl  uader  the  |)ower  of  tbe  cburch.  In  14JJ3  the  popes  obbiiiied  pos- 
BeamonoftheprincipnlityofPontecorvo,  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples  ;  and 
about  the  same  period  Perugia,  Orvieto,  CittA  di  Castello,  and  name- 
rous  dependent  towns  acknowledged  the  papal  aovereigHly :  and  the 
conquests  of  Julius  IL  added  to  tne  dominions  of  the  Holy  See  the 
important  di^triclt  of  Bologna  and  Uaventia.  Ancona  was  oecupied 
bv  the  Pupal  Ii-oops  in  1533;  Fermra  was  seized  in  1597;  the  Duke 
of  Urbino  abdicated  in  favour  of  the  church  in  162(i;  and  a  few  yeara 
later  the  Pafial  States  received  their  last  additions  in  the  (iefB  of  Castro 
and  Roncighonc,  which  were  wrested  from  tlie  Farnese  by  Innocent  X, 
Such  were  the  temporal  possessions  of  the  popes  when  the  Frendi 
revolution  ujiset  the  whole  system  of  Italian  government.  Into  the 
changes  produced  b^  that  event  in  the  states  of  the  church,  it  u  ' 
unnecessary  lu  enter  in  detail :  it  is  sutKcient  to  say  that  the  popes  were 
restored  to  their  possessions  at  the  close  of  the  European  war  in  181^  ] 
and  that  the  tum|ioraI  slates  of  ilie  Holy  See  liave  from  that  time  re-  , 
mained  jnuch  as  they  were  settled  by  article  103  ofthe  Treaty  of  Vienna.  ' 
This  article  restored  to  the  Holy  See  the  Marshes,  with  Camerino  and 
iheir  dependencies,  the  duchy  of  Beneveuto  and  the  principality  of 
Pontecorvo.     In  virtue  of  the  same  article,  the  Holy  See   regained  ; 

Eossession  of  the  legations  of  Bavenna,  Bologna,  and  Ferrara,  save^ 
owcver,  that  part  of  Ferrara  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Pc 
which  Austria  secured  to  herself,  together  with  the  right  of  garrisonia 
the /lAinv  of  Ferrara  and  Comniacchio,  The  protest  made  by  C  " 
Coiisalvi  at  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  in  favour  of  the  ancient  p( " 
of  the  church,  has  hitherto  remained  a  dead  letter;  but  the  O' 
of  the  eity  as  well  as  the  citadel  by  Austria  in  1847,  i 
that  the  word  place  in  the  treaty  applied  to  the  entire  city.iwI^^H 
spirit  of  nationality  in  the  Papal  States,  and  a  feeling  of  Kympathy 
throughout  Europe,  which  eventually  restored  Ferrara  and  its  garrison 
to  the  Pope. 

The  States  are  divided  into  twenty  provinces.  The  first  is  the 
Tpmorca  of  Rome,  including  within  its  jurisdiction  the  three  districts 
B  Rome,  Tivoli,  and  Subiaco.  The  other  nineteen  are  divided  into 
Wo  classes,  L^ations  and  Delegations.  The  Legations  are  governed 
^  Cardinals,  and  the  Delegations  by  Monsignori  or  Prelates,  There 
re  six  Lfgalioas,  Bologna,  Ferrara,  Forli,  Ravenna,  Urbino  (with 
'  Pesaro),  and  Vel.letri.  There  are  thirteen  Delegations,  Aucona,  Ma- 
eerata,  Camerino,  Fermo,  Ascoli,  Perugia,  Spoleto,  Ricti,  Viterbo, 
Orvieto,  Civlta  Vecchia,  Frosinone  (with  Pontecorvo),  and  Benevento. 
^^-Each  province  is  divided  into  communes,  and  eleven  of  them  are  divided 
^^unto  districts  (distrettp,  with  peculiarities  of  local  government  which 
^^BdU  be  described  hereafter. 

I 


garrisoniwj 
IV  Caaljtiu 
^'oa^^^H 


3.   OOVEBNIUKNT. 

f  An  unliitiited  elective  hierarchy,  the  head  of  which  is  the  Pope,  who 
I'chosen  by  the  College  of  Cardinals  out  of  thdr  own  body.    The 


I 

I 


INTRODUCTION. — JtlStice.  Tli, 

number  of  the  Cardinals  was  limited  to  seventy  by  Slxtns  V,,  in  allu* 
sion  to  the  number  of  disciples  whom  the  Saviour  commissioned  to 
spread  the  gospel  throughout  the  world  ;  but  the  college  is  seldom  full. 
All  vacancies  in  their  body  are  filled  up  by  the  Pope,  whose  power  in 
thb  respect  is  absolute.  The  Cardinals  constitute  what  is  called  the 
Sacred  College,  and  are  the  Princes  of  the  Church.  They  rank  in 
three  classes — 1.  The  six  Cardinal  Bishops  (Ostia,  Porto,  Sabina, 
Palestrina,  Albano,  Frascati) ;  2.  Fifty  Cardinal  Priests  ;  3.  Fourteen 
Cardinal  Deacons.  They  all  receive  salaries,  independently  of  any 
revenues  which  they  may  derive  from  benefices,  and  from  the  emolu- 
ments of  public  offices.  On  the  death  of  the  Pope,  the  supreme  power 
is  exercised  by  the  Cardinal  Chamberlain  for  nine  days,  and  during 
that  time  he  has  the  privilege  of  coining  money  in  his  own  name  and 
impressed  with  his  own  arms.  On  the  ninth  day,  the  funeral  of  the 
deceased  Pope  takes  place,  and  on  the  day  following  the  Cardinals  are 
summoned  to  the  secret  conclave  to  elect  his  successor.  They  are 
shut  up  till  they  agree  :  the  voting  is  secret,  and  the  election  is  deter* 
mined  by  a  majority  of  two-thirds,  subject  to  the  privilege  of  Austria, 
France,  and  Spain,  to  put  each  a  veto  on  one  candidate.  The  condi- 
tions of  the  election  require  that  the  Pope  be  fifty-five  years  of  age,  a 
Cardinal,  and  an  Italian  by  birth.  The  government  is  administered  by 
a  Cardinal  Secretary  of  State  as  chief  minister,  and  by  different  Boards 
or  Congregazioni.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  Camera  Apostolica, 
the  Treasury  or  Financial  department,  presided  over  by  the  Cardinal 
Chamberlain,  assisted  by  Twelve  Prelates,  an  Auditor,  the  Treasurer* 
€leneral  or  Finance  Minister,  and  Assessors ;  the  Chancery,  or  Can- 
cellaria,  presided  over  by  the  Cardinal  Chancellor  ;  the  Dataria,  for 
ecclesiastical  benefices,  presided  over  by  a  Cardinal ;  the  Buon  Governo, 
for  municipal  police,  presided  over  by  a  Cardinal  Prefect,  assisted  by 
twelve  other  Cardinals  and  Prelates ;  the  Congregazione  de  Monti,  for 
the  public  debts ;  the  Sacra  Consulta,  a  college  of  Cardinals,  Prelates, 
Physicians,  and  Assessors,  for  the  political  and  civil  administration  of 
tlie  provinces  over  which  the  Cardinal  Secretary  of  State  presides  ;  the 
Court  of  the  Se^atura;  and  the  Sacra  Ruota,  the  great  Court  of  Appeal 
for  the  whole  ot  the  States.  The  Cardinal  Chamberlain  is  the  only 
minister  who  holds  office  for  life.  The  Cardinal  Secretary  of  State  is 
generally  a  personal  friend  of  the  reigning  pontiff)  and  is  always  the  con- 
fidential minister.  Subordinate  to  him  is  the  Governor  of  Rome,  who  is 
always  a  prelate  or  monsignore,  though  not  necessarily  in  holy  orders. 
The  power  of  the  Governor  is  very  great ;  he  includes  within  his 
jurisdiction  the  whole  province  of  the  Comarca  ;  he  has  the  entire  con- 
trol of  the  police  of  Rome,  and  possesses  the  power  of  inflicting  capital 
punishment.  The  office  of  Senator  of  Rome  is  oi  high  antiquity  and 
importance,  as  conferring  privileges  of  precedency,  though  the  duties 
are  little  more  than  nominal,  being  confined  to  the  supermtendence  of 
the  public  processions,  the  horse  races,  and  the  markets.  The  Senator 
and  his  three  judges,  called  Caporioni,  are  always  chosen  from  the  high 
nobility. 

The  Auditor  of  the  Camera,  the  Auditor  of  the  Pope  (UJitore 
8aQtii»imo),  and  the  Major-Domo  or  Steward  of  the  HousehoV^\,  mq 

A  4 


F 


INTBODUCTION.  —  Juttiot. 


i^Rlates,  anil  have  the  envied  privilege  of  keeping  carriages  similar 
'  to  the  cardinals.  Tlio  Pope's  Auditor  exiimincs  thy  titlea  of  candidatea 
for  bishoprics,  and  decides  till  cases  o(  appeal  to  the  Pope  ■■  tlie  Major- 
Domo  19  an  officer  of  great  influence,  and  is  entitled  to  a  cardinal'a 
hnt  OD  quitting  office. 

Justice  is  DdmioiBtered  throiighuut  tlic  States  on  the  laws  of  the 
"  Corpus  Juris,"  and  the  Canon  Law.  The  Judgeii  are  appointed  by 
the  Pope,  They  roust  be  ahove  thirty  years  of  age,  of  unblemished 
character,  of  legitimate  birth,  doctors  of  Irw,  anil  have  practised  al  the 
bar  a^  advocaies  for  at  least  five  years.  Ever^  Governor  of  a  eountrjr 
district  has  jurisdiction,  without  appeal,  in  civil  cases  to  the  amount  of 
300  Bcudi ;  and  in  criminal  cases  of  a  minor  character,  subject  to 
appeal.  In  the  chief  towns  the  Assessors  of  the  Delegate  have  juris- 
dic  Jon  in  lesser  offences ;  and  the  Collegiate  Court,  composed  of  the 
Hel^ate,  his  two  Assessors,  an  ordinary  Judge,  and  a  Member  of  the 
Communal  Council,  has  both  civil  end  criminal  jurisdiction  in  the  first 
instance  for  the  whole  province,  with  the  power  of  appeal  to  one  of 
the  three  higher  courts.  This  CoUegiare  Court  is  also  the  Court  of 
'  Appeal  from  the  decisions  of  the  local  Governors  and  Assessors,  In 
every  criminal  court  the  proceedings  are  conducted  nith  closed  doors, 
and  the  depositions  are  taken  down  in  writing.  The  accused  haa  a 
riflht  to  the  assistance  of  an  advocate,  called  the  Avvocala  dc'  Povai, 
who  is  always  a  person  of  high  acquiremeirts,  appointed  by  the  Pope 
and  paid  by  government.  All  matters  in  which  churchmen  are  con- 
cerned, and  such  cases  as  are  referred  lo  the  ecclesiastical  authority  bv 
the  Canon  Law,  are  tried  before  the  Ecclesiastical  Courts,  wbicn 
exist  in  each  diocese  under  the  direction  of  the  Archbishops  and 
Sishops.  The  more  imporltint  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  belongs  to  ihti 
PenitoiiieriB,  or  Secret  Inquisition,  over  which  a  Cardinal  presides, 
assisted  by  twelve  other  C^dinols,  and  a  Prelate  as  Assessor.  The 
Judges  of  the  ordinary  courts  are  required,  in  pronouncing  judgment, 
to  state  the  grounds  of  their  decision.  There  are  three  Courts  of 
Appeal  for  the  provinces  in  the  Second  Instance,  one  at  Bologna,  one 
at  Macerata,  and  the  S^natiira  at  Uome,  If  the  first  judgment  be 
confirmed  on  appeal,  the  suit  can  be  carried  no  further  ;  but  when  the 
Crst  judgment  is  reversed,  the  cause  is  carried  to  the  Segnatura,  where 
it  is  decided  whether  it  may  be  further  prosecuted  or  not.  If  the 
dlecision  be  in  the  affirmative,  the  suit  is  carried  into  the  celebrated 
Court  of  the  Sacra  Huota,  once  (he  supreme  court  of  the  Christian 
world,  and  still  possessing  extensive  jurisdiction.  It  is  composed  of 
twelve  Preiaiesi,  two  of  whom  are  chosen  by  Spain,  one  by  Tuscany 
alternately  with  PCTugia,  one  by  France,  one  by  Germany,  one  by 
Milan,  and  the  remaining  six  by  the  Pope,  The  Huota  gives  judgment 
with  the  reasons,  which  may  either  be  reviewed  or  carried  to  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  Camera  Apostolica.  A^  a  cause  ia  not  finally 
decided  until  two  similar  judgments  have  been  pronounced,  an  appeal 
to  the  RuotB,  end  a  review  of  ils  judgment,  frequently  protracts  the 
Ause  beyond  the  lifetime  of  the  contending  parties.  The  addresses  of 
e  advocates  in  the  Segnatura  and  the  Ruota  are  delivered  in  Latin. 


tthe  B 
sebej 
advot 


mrnODVCTiON.'-^Bevenuey  etc.  ix 

In  criminal  proceedings  there  are  no  limits  to  imprisonment  on  sus- 
picion, and  the  trial  is  often  indefinitely  delayed^  the  accused  having 
no  power  to  bring  his  case  before  the  judges.  This  dilatory  system, 
the  rare  infliction  of  fines,  the  absence  of  liberation  on  bail,  and  the 
universal  practice  of  imprisonment  for.  all  kinds  of  offences,  tend  to 
keep  the  prisons  constantly  full,  and  constitute  the  great  reproach  of 
the  Papal  administration.  It  is  calculated  that  the  average  number  of 
persons  actually  in  confinement  is  alK>ut  6000 ;  there  are  nine  prisons 
for  convicted  criminals — Civita  Vecchia,  Ancona,  Porto  d*  Anzo, 
8poleto,  Narni,  St.  Leo,  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  Fermo,  and  Civita 
Oistellana. 

4.  REVENUE. 

The  total  average  income  of  the  Papal  States  is  under  two  millions 
sterling.  The  expenses  of  collection  are  not  less  than  460,000/.,  leaving 
a  net  revenue  in  round  numbers  of  1,540,000/.  Out  of  this  limited 
revenue,  the  sum  of  560,000/.  goes  to  pay  the  interest  of  the  public 
debty  1 10,000/.  to  meet  the  expenses  of  the  State  Government,  105,000/. 
for  the  allowances  to  the  Cardinals,  the  expenses  of  Ecclesiastical 
CoDgregations,  and  Ministers  to  Foreign  Courts.  The  expenses  of 
the  Court  are  under  60,000/.,  of  which  a  very  small  portion  is  paid  to 
the  Pope  himself. 

5.  ECCLESIASTICAL   ESTABLISHMENT. 

Exclusive  of  Rome,  the  Papal  States  comprise  9  archbishoprics,  59 
bishoprics,  and  13  abbacies :  the  Archbishoprics  are  those  of  Bologna, 
Benevento,  Camerino  (with  Treja),  Ferrara,  Fermo,  Ravenna,  Spoleto, 
Bevagna  (with  Trevi),  and  Urbino.  The  secular  clergy  are  supposed 
to  amount  to  about  35,000,  the  monks  to  upwards  of  10,000,  and  the 
nuns  to  more  than  800O.  The  number  of  monasteries  is  calculated  at 
1824,  and  the  convents  at  612.  The  office  of  Prelate  is  peculiar  to 
the  Papal  States  ;  this  dignitary  is  not,  as  is  generally  supposed,  a 
bishop,  but  an  official  servant  of  the  Government,  a  kind  of  under 
Secretary  of  State,  either  temporal  or  spiritual,  with  the  title  of  Mon« 
signore.  He  is  not  necessarily  in  holy  orders,  and  unless  he  has  been 
ordained  he  becomes  a  layman  on  retiring  from  office.  It  is  however 
essential  that  the  candicmte  for  the  prelatureship  be  of  noble  birth, 
that  he  |>os6e«8  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Laws,  and  enjoy  a  private 
income  of  500  scudi  per  annum.  From  200  to  250  of  these  officers 
are  employed  in  various  departments  of  the  State ;  some  are  attached 
to  the  court  of  the  Pope,  and  others  act  as  secretaries  or  members  of 
congr^ations  or  government  boards.  It  is  the  great  stepping-stone 
to  preferment  to  all  the  higher  offices  of  state :  the  Prelate  generally 
becomes  a  Nuncio,  a  Delegate,  a  Judge,  Governor  of  Rome,  Treasurer 
or  Auditor-General ;  and  since  the  dignity  of  Cardinal  has  been 
thrown  open  to  laymen,  he  frequently  obtains  a  seat  in  the  Sacred 
College  bv  promotion  from  one  or  other  of  these  offices.  He  wears  a 
distinj^isning  costume,  and  is  recognised  in  Rome  by  his  violet 
MockiQ^  and  his  short  black  silk  cloak. 

The  Jews  in  the  Papal  States  amount  to  about  9000»  and  Vittve  ^ 

A  5 


iNTBOOlJCTiOK.  ^^Armff  and  Navy. 


r 

^BgniHgiigues.   Of  tliia  number  there  tire  4000  in  Home, 
^Bnd  l(iOO  in  Anconn. 


I     wid 


K 


6.  ilisiv   *KI)  NAVY. 

:  StHtcB  or  the  Chiiri'h  urc  dlviileil  into  three  inilitiiry  divinioni,  I 

of  Rume,  Boiii^na,  and  Ancona.     The  Army  is  governed  by  n  , 

Soard  called  the  PrcHidenza  delle  Arnii,  under  the  conlrol  of  a  Prelate  i 

with  the  title  of  Commisiiionnria.     lis  force  in  1640  was  about  1 1,000  I 
men.     The  Swiss  Budy  Guard  of  the  Pope,  commanded  by  a  Captain 
Vnd  Lieutenant,  comprises   MO  foot  Boldiers,  who  carry  the  ancient 

~  ilb?rJ,  and  wear  the  singular  costume  said  lo  have  been  designed  by  ' 

"ichacl    Angelo.      The   Pope's    Noble  (iuard   (Guurdia   Nobilc),  a  I 

'    ileer  corps  of  80  noblemen,  is  commanded  by  one  of  the  | 

,  E.     It  is  their  province  to  attend  the  Pope  on  all  public  ' 

church  ceremonies  ;  and  tliey  constiuite,  both  by  their  equipments  , 
ADd  tiieir  rank,  the  most  distinguished  military  body  in  Rome.     The 

Ripal   Navy  coniaiiis  a  few  gun  brigs  rnd  smaller  craft,  and  two  ' 

steamers.     The  Mercantile  Marine  includes  less  than   tOO  vessels  of  1 

■  e  gro'a  tonnage  of  7000  tons,  engaged  in  foreign  trade  j  and  a  laj^e  ' 

iniberofcoastersandiishingcrBrt,  of  which  no  account  can  be  obtained,  i 


n 


7. 
s  calculated  th:it  the  Papa!  Government  provides  education  for  ! 
about   1  in  50  of  the  population.     The  whole  gystejn  was  very  imper- 
fect prior  lo  the  time  of  Leo  XIL,  whose  welt-knowii  Bidl  "  Quod  1 
Kvina  ijupienlia  omnes  docet,"  gave  a  great  impulse  to  popular  edu- 
cadon  in  Italy.     There  are  three  classes  of  educational  iastitutiona  : 
^     Universities,  the  Bishops'  Schools,  and  the  Communal  or  Parish  ' 
.  oolfl.     I.  There  are  6  UniveiBitics,  divided  into  two  classes,  pri- 
iry  and   secondary.     The   two   primary   Universities   are   that  of 
^_  ime,  founded  A. D.'l244j  and  that  of  Bologna,  founded  1 119.     The 
tax  secondary,  Bre  those  of  Ferrara  (1264),  Perugia  (1307-20),  Haee~ 
-■    (1548),  Femio  (1589),  Caraerino  (I7ST),  and  the  College  of  the 


K 


II.  The  Bishops'  Schools  are  established  in  nil  the 
'hich  are  rich  entlugh  to  support  them.  The  mssterg  are 
appointed  by  the  communal  councils,  after  an  open  competition  before 
the  Qonfaloniere,  and  must  then  be  approved  by  the  Bishop.  III. 
The  Communal  Schools  answer  in  some  measure  to  the  parish  schools 
of  England,  but  the  state  of  education  is  generally  very  low,  and 
chiefly  of  an  ecclesiastical  character. 

!n  Home,  it  is  calculated  that  at  least  three-fourths  of  the  poor 
'children  are  gratuitously  educated.  The  372  elementary  schools, 
instituted  in  the  middle  of  the  la^e  century,  still  exist,  and  include 
three  classes:  —  I,  Those  in  which  a  small  sum  is  paid;  2.  The  gra- 
tuitous schools  ;  3.  The  infant  schools.  The  average  number  of 
Bcholara  ia  14,000,  who  are  drstributed  among  the  different  schools  in 
[ahe  following  proportion  : —  1.  Paid  Schools,  3600  ;  Boys  8000,  Girls 


t.  Gratuitous   Schools,  5000  ;    Boys  2700,  Girls   8900. 


I 


INTRODTJCTION.—  Commerce  and  Manufactures.  xi 

Infant  Schools,  4800.  The  gratuitous  schools  are  under  the  super* 
intendence  of  the  parish  priests.  The  masters  are  publicly  examined 
before  election ;  the  schools  are  periodically  visited  by  ecclesiastical 
inspectors,  and  corporal  punishment  is  forbidden.  In  regard  to  female 
education,  there  are  no  private  schools  either  for  the  aristocracy  or 
the  middle  classes  :  the  instruction  of  females  of  this  rank  is  entirely 
confined  to  the  convents,  and  those  of  the  class  below  them  are 
boarded  and  taught  in  the  different  charitable  conservatori. 

8.    COMMERCE   AND    MANUFACTURES. 

There  are  few  countries  in  Europe  which  enjoy  more  natural  ad' 
vantages  of  soil  and  climate  than  the  States  of  the  Church  ;  and  yet 
their  great  resources  are  very  imperfectly  applied,  and  perhaps  not 
altogether  understood.  The  enormous  forests  which  cover  the  un» 
cultivated  tracts  for  miles  together  are  almost  entirely  neglected ;  the 
excellent  wines  which  ai*e  produced,  almost  without  effort,  in  many  of 
the  provincial  towns,  are  httle  known  beyond  the  frontier;  and  the 
mineral  riches  of  the  country  have  never  been  thoroughly  explored. 
The  provincial  population  are  rather  agricultural  than  manufacturing, 
and  many  articles  of  natural  produce  are  exported  to  a  small  extent. 
The  manufactures,  on  the  other  hand,  though  making  creditable  pro- 
gress, are  chiefly  for  home  consumption,  and  are  insufficient  for  the 
demands  of  the  population,  who  derive  their  main  supplies  from  foreign 
countries.  The  principal  agricultural  exports  are  the  following : — > 
com  from  Roma^a ;  oil  from  the  southern  provinces  ;  hemp  and  ani- 
seed from  Romagna,  from  the  Bolognese,  and  the  Polesina  or  Ferrara ; 
woad,  to  the  annual  amount  of  14,000  lbs.,  from  Rieti,  Citta  di  Cas- 
tello,  Spoleto,  Matelica,  and  Camerino  ;  tobacco,  to  the  amount  of 
300,000  lbs.,  from  all  parts  of  the  States ;  pine-kernels  from  Ravenna 
to  Austria;  cork-bark,  to  the  amount  of  550,000  lbs.,  from  Civita 
Vecchia  to  England  ;  wool  and  wrought  silk  in  large  quantities  to 
France,  England,  and  Piedmont;  potash  from  Rome,  Corneto,  and 
Porto  d'Anzo;  oxen  from  Perugia,  Foligno,  and  Romagna  to  Tus- 
cany ;  and  rags  for  manure,  to  the  large  amount  of  3,000,000  lbs., 
from  all  the  great  towns.  The  best  alum  known  is  found  at  Tolfa 
near  Civita  Vecchia :  it  was  once  exported  in  considerable  quantities, 
but  the  trade  has  declined  since  the  introduction  of  artificial  alum,  and 
the  present  produce  is  unknown.  The  works  at  Tolfa  are  a  monopoly 
of  the  Camera,  and  are  the  only  mines  worked  by  the  government. 
In  the  districts  of  Cesena,  Pesaro,  and  Rimini  are  valuable  sulphur  mines, 
jrielding  an  annual  produce  of  4,000,000  lbs.  The  vitriol  works  of 
Viterbo  produce  upwards  of  100,000  lbs.,  of  which  about  one- half  is 
exported.  The  salt  works  of  Cervia,  the  Comacchio,  and  Corneto, 
give  an  annual  produce  of  76,000,000  lbs. 

Manufacturing  industry  is  very  generally  diffused  over  all  parts  of  the 
States :  woollen  cloths,  to  the  annual  value  of  300,000  scudi,  are  pro- 
duced at  Rome,  Spoleto,  Foligno,  Temi,  Matelica,  Perugia,  Gubbio, 
Fossombrone,  S.  Angelo  in  Vado,  Narni,  Alatri,  and  other  places  of 
less  importance.  Silks,  damasks,  and  velvets  are  manufactured  at 
Rome,  Bologna,  Perugia,   Camerino,  and  Fossombrone,   wUcti^  xVv^ 

A  6 


( 


F 


iNTBODrcnoM. — Affrieulture. 


jyAc  lie  Lcuchtoiibei-g  ho*  given  to  the  works  the  impulse  of  the 
itenm-engine.  Ribbons  of  good  nuattty  arc  nmnufactureiT  at  Bologna, 
Porli,  Fano,  ond  Pesaro  ;  and  atlk  stockings  arc  made  Dl  the  SBme 
places,  and  at  Aiicona  aiid  Ascoli.  The  ailk  veils  and  crape  of  Bologna 
were  Ibnnerly  celebrated  throughout  Europe  ;  and  though  the  trade 
has  declined,  they  are  still  esteemed  in  France  aud  other  coiintriea. 
The  carpets  of  Pergola  were  once  exported  in  large  quantities  to  the 
LoDil>Brdo- Venetian  kingdom,  where  they  had  n  ready  sale  as  &  good 
inuiation  of  the  English  pattcrnii :  the  hata  of  Rome,  which  are  mnnu- 
fikcturei!  to  the  value  of  200,000  scudi  annually,  are  in  great  demand  in 
sH  parts  of  the  States,  and  even  in  Naples  and  Tuscany-  Wax 
eaadles,  to  the  amount  of  £SO,OOD  scudi,  and  other  articles  of  the  same 
dass  for  domestic  use,  arc  made  at  Rome,  Rologna,  Perugia,  Ancona, 
and  Foligno :  at  the  lotter  place  the  trade  is  particularly  flourishiDg. 
The  cotton  fabrics  at  Rome,  in  the  semicircular  Thealndium  of  the 
Baths  of  Diocletian,  have  made  little  progress,  compared  to  the  manu- 
iaeture  of  hemp  and  flax.  The  ropes  and  cordage  produced  in  the 
asyhims,  public  schools,  and  private  rope-yarda  are  of  sujierior  quality, 
Slid  are  exported  to  the  Ionian  Islands  and  to  Greece.  The  paper 
manufactories  of  Fabriano,  established  as  early  as  136*,  still  keep  up 
their  reputation :  the  ouantity  manufactured  annually  in  the  States  is 
3,000,000  lbs.,  of  whicn  the  greater  part  is  derived  from  Fabriano. 
^^^e  paper  rivals  in  its  quality  the  great  Neapolitan  establishment  on 
^R^  !Khreno,  and  is  exported  to  the  Levant,  and  even  to  the  Brazils. 

F 


The  Oigriculture  of  the  Papal  States,  with  the  exception  of  the  system 
which  prevails  in  the  Roman  Campi^a,  difibrs  very  little  from  that  of 


Tuscany;  but  we  look  in  vain  for  the  active  industry  which  has  n 
da«d  the  territory  of  the  Grand-Duke  the  garden  of  Italy.  The 
leading  peculiarity  of  the  Papal  system  is  the  prevalence  of  immense 
farms  in  the  least  cultivated  districts.  The  Campiigna  immediatelv 
around  Rome,  culled  by  the  Italian  agriculturists  the  "  Agro  Romano; 
the  vast  tract  of  Maremma,  which  spreads  along  the  coast  fi-om  the 
T^cau  frontier  to  that  of  Naples  ;  and  the  marshy  land  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Fermra  and  Raveimo,  are  all  cultivated  upon  the  system 
of  large  farms,  and  ai'e  consequently  in  the  hands  of  a  few  wealthy 
agriciutnrists.  In  other  parts  of  Italy  the  farms  are  generally  of  small 
sice,  and  have  poor  landlords  and  still  poorer  tenants.  The  larae 
estates  are  held  in  mortmain  ;  the  longest  leases  are  for  life,  and  the 
shortest  for  twelve  years.  The  Maremma  district  is  divided  among 
150  farmers.  The  Agro  Romano,  containing  about  550,000  English 
acres,  is  divided  into  farms  varying  from  1200  to  3000  acres  ;  some, 
however,  are  much  larger,  as,  for  instance,  the  celebrated  farm  of  Cam- 
pomorto,  which  contains  not  less  then  ^0,000  acres.  This  immense 
tract  is  in  the  hands  of  about  forty  farmers,  who  are  called  "  Mercanti  di 
Gampagna,"  and  form  a  corjioration  protected  by  the  Government,  and 
possesi<cd  of  [)eculier  privileges.     Each  Mcrcante  rents  Eevernl  farms, 

I  paying  a  fixed  rent  only  for  the  cultivable  ground  :  many  of  them  are 
CKlremely  rich,  and  live  in  palaces  at  Rome,  where  they  have  counting- 


JNTRODTJCTiov,'^  Agriculture.  xiii 

houses  and  clerks  to  transact  the  business  of  their  farms.  The  smallest 
ftums  of  the  Agro  Romano  require  a  capital  of  2000/.,  while  the 
largest  requh-e  one  of  20,000/. ;  the  rent  alone  of  the  farm  of  Campo- 
morto,  mentioned  above,  is  5000/.  a-year.  Leases  at  fixed  rents  are 
rare  in  the  Papal  States,  except  in  some  of  the  great  farms  and  in  the 
Maremma,  where  estates  are  occasionally  subdivided  and  underlet  to 
small  fanners.  The  mezzeria  system,  or  the  plan  of  colonising,  every- 
where prevails.  This  system,  which  dates  from  the  earliest  times  of 
Italian  history,  is  founded  on  a  division  oi£  profits  between  the  landlord 
and  tenant:  it  necessarily  implies  a  mutual  good  faith  between  the 
parties,  and  an  entire  reliance  on  the  integrity  of  the  cultivator.  In 
Tuscany,  where  the  system  flourishes  in  great  perfection,  its  advantages 
are  considered  by  some  to  counterbalance  its  practical  evils  ;  but  in  the 
Papal  States  it  has  produced  great  wretchedness  among  both  tenants 
ana  labourers.  The  mezzeria  may  be  defined  as  a  kind  of  unwritten 
contract  or  partnership  between  the  landlord  and  tenant ;  the  landlord 
supplies  capital,  the  tenant  finds  labour  and  the  implements  required  in 
ordmary  cultivation.  The  seed  for  sowing  is  paid  for  jointly,  and  the 
produce  of  the  farm  is  e(}ually  divided.  All  extra  work,  such  as  em* 
banking,  planting,  reclaiming  waste  lands,  &c.,  falls  upon  the  landlord, 
who  pays  the  tenant  wages  for  this  additional  work.  Whatever  may 
be  thought  of  this  system  at  first  sight,  it  has  been  proved  by  experience 
that  an  equal  division  of  the  produce  is  impracticable  in  the  Papal 
States,  where  the  people  are  deficient  in  the  industry  and  thrifl  which 
are  characteristic  of  the  Tuscan  countryman.  The  tenant  is  therefore 
unable  to  live  on  the  half  produce,  and  is  consequently  in  perpetual 
debt  to  his  landlord.  This  result  is  again  practically  shown  by  the 
fact,  that  a  farm  on  the  mezzeria  system  does  not  return  more  than  2^^ 
per  cent,  on  the  capital,  while  one  held  on  lease  generally  returns  3 
per  cent.  The  land,  also,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rome,  which  is 
farmed  out  at  fixed  rents,  sells  readily  for  forty  years'  purchase  ;  while 
no  one  will  purchase  a  mezzeria  farm  who  does  not  obtain  5  per  cent. 
net  for  his  capital.  The  most  profitable  kind  of  agricultural  occupation 
IS  grazing  :  in  recent  years  mulberries  have  been  a  more  satisfactory 
investment  even  than  the  olive.  The  vineyards  require  great  care,  and 
with  few  exceptions  make  inadequate  returns.  The  system  of  farming 
in  the  Roman  plain  is  in  many  respects  peculiar.  In  the  first  place, 
the  fanner  seldom  lives  on  his  estate,  the  solitary  casale  being  tenanted 
by  the  fattore,  or  steward,  and  by  the  herdsmen.  In  the  winter  the 
farm  is  covered  with  cattle :  the  number  of  sheep  collected  on  the 
Campagna  at  that  season  is  said  to  amount  to  600,000  ;  and  the  large 
grey  oxen,  which  are  bred  for  the  Roman  market,  cannot  be  much  less 
than  half  that  number.  The  herdsmen  are  seen  riding  over  the  plain 
wrapped  in  a  sheep-skin  cloak,  and  carrying  a  long  pike :  the  horses 
they  ride  are  almost  wild,  and  are  turned  loose  in  summer  among  the 
woods  and  morasses  of  the  coast,  where  they  mingle  with  the  buffaloes 
and  herds  of  swine  which  people  that  desolate  tract.  As  the  summer 
draws  on,  the  climate  becomes  too  unhealthy  for  the  cattle :  the  sheep 
and  oxen  are  then  driven  firom  the  plain  to  the  cool  pastures  on  the 
Sabine  hillSy  to  die  high  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  of  B.\^\.\,  «xA 


I 


tIv       rrriKTOuerKW. —  (^aracterittict  ^the  Country.  ' 

even  to  the  mourtnins  of  llic  Abruzzi.  At  harvc&t  lime  the  heats  axe 
of  cuurse  terrific,  anil  ihe  malaria  ansumcs  i[s  moat  deailly  chAfai;ter. 
Tbe  peasants  from  the  Vulscian  hills  and  Uam  liej'onil  the  franlier 
coine  down  into  the  pluin  to  earn  n  few  crowni  fur  the  ensuing  winter  : 
tliey  work  in  the  hurvcBt-lteltl  all  day  undtr  a  scorching  sun,  and  nt 
night  sleep  on  the  damp  earth,  from  which  the  luw  heavy  vapour  of 
the  pestilent  malaria  begins  lo  rise  at  sunset.  Even  the  strongest  and 
healthiest  ore  often  struck  down  in  a  single  week  ;  before  the  hurvast 
is  gathered  in,  hundreds  of  hardy  uiouniameers  have  perished  on  the 
plain,  and  those  who  survive  either  die  on  their  retiu'n  iiome  or  beir 
die  mark  of  the  pestilence  for  life.  As  soon  as  the  harvest  is  over,  the 
immense  Campa^na  is  utterly  deserted  ;  the  herdsmen  are  absent  with 
tbeir  cattle,  the  lattorc  takes  refuge  in  Booie,  and  the  Inbourera  retire 
to  the  few  scattered  villages  on  the  outskirts  of  the  plain,  where  thsy 
iaiBi^ae  that  they  eryoy  an  immunity  from  the  malaria,  which  even  there 
follows  them  with  its  fatal  influence,  After  each  harvest  the  land,  in 
some  parts  of  the  Marenima  more  especinlly,  is  generally  left  to  pasture 
for  an  indefinite  time,  the  farmer  seldom  allowing  more  thun  one 
wheat  crop  in  four  years.  In  the  more  peopled  dislricta  there  ia  an 
aiitiuttl  rotation  from  corn  to  spring  graaiies.  In  all  parts  of  the  Stoles  | 
the  agricultural  implements  are  of  tne  rudest  kind  ;  the  native  manu- 
facture never  deviates  from  the  primitive  style  which  has  prevailed  fur 
tues,  and  the  heavy  duties  on  articles  of  forei!>n  manubcture  prohiliit 
^e  introduction  ol  the  improvements  of  other ''- 

It  is  impossible  to  travel  over  Italy  without  observing  the  striking 
diSerence  between  its  northern  and  soulhern  provinces.  The  traveller, 
whose  object  is  to  combine  instruction  with  the  other  purposes  of  his 
journey,  will  discover  on  crossing  the  frontier  of  the  Papal  States 
that  he  has  enterc<l  on  a  country  of  new  associations  and  ideas.  A 
claas  of  objects,  differing  altogether  from  those  to  which  he  has  been 
accustomed  in  Northern  Italy,  will  be  presented  to  his  notice ;  and 
unless  he  be  prepared  to  appreciate  them,  he  will  not  only  lose  a  great 
portion  of  enjoyment,  but  will  be  induced  to  believe  that  the  sale 
interest  of  the  country  is  centered  in  its  great  capitols.  That  portion 
of  Italy  which  it  is  our  province  to  describe  in  the  present  volume 
includes  within  its  limits  a  field  of  study  and  observation  almost  inex- 
haustible. Though  rifled  for  centuries  by  all  classes  of  writers,  there 
is  still  no  port  of  Europe  which  the  traveller  will  find  so  richly  stored 
with  intellectual  treasure.  From  the  North  it  differs  mably  in  ihis, 
that  it  b  pre-eminently  the  Italy  of  classical  times.  It  carries  the 
mind  back  through  the  history  of  twenty  centuries  to  the  evenls  which 
laid  the  foundation  of  Roman  greatness.  It  presents  us  with  the 
monuments  of  nations  which  either  ceased  to  exist  before  the  origin 
if  Aome,  or  gradually  sunk  under  her  power.  Every  province  is  full 
_.f  associations;  every  step  we  tube  is  on  ground  hallowed  by  the 
;inpirits  of  the  poets,  the  historians,  and  the  philosophers  of  Rome. 
^Ilfhese  however  are  not  the  only  olyccts  which  command  atlenttDn. 
^Xa  the  darkness  which  succeeded  the  fiiU  of  Rome,  Italy  was  the  first 


mTSOT>TJCTiON.'^  Characteristics  of  the  Coimtry.       :xv 

country  which  burst  the  trammels  in  which  the  world  had  so  long 
been  bound.    Constitutional  freedom  first  arose  amidst  the  contests  of 
the  popes  with  the  German  emperors  ;  and  in  the  republics  of  Middle 
Italy  the  human  mind  was  developed  with  a  rapidity  and  grandeur 
which  Rome,  in  the  plenitude  of  her  power,  had  never  equalled.     The 
light  of  modern  civilisation  was  first  kindled  on  the  soil  which  had 
witnessed  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Homan  empire ;  and  Europe  is  in- 
debted to  the  Italy  of  the  middle  ages  for  its  first  lessons,  not  only  in 
political  wisdom,  but  in  law,  in  literature,  and  in  art.     The  history  of 
the  Italian  republics  is  not  a  mere  record  of  political  party,  or  of  the 
struggles  of  petty  princes  and  rival  fiictions :  it  is  the  record  of  an  era 
in  which  modem  civilisation  received  its  earliest  impulses.     Amidst 
the  extraordinary  energy  of  their  citizens,  conquest  was  not  the  exclu- 
sive object,  as  in  the  dark  ages  which  had  preceded  them.    Before  the 
end  of  the  thirteenth  century  the  universities  of  the  free  cities  had 
opened  a  new  path  for  literature  and  science,  and  sent  forth  their  philo- 
sophers and  jurists  to  spread  a  knowledge  of  their  advancement.     The 
constitutional  liberties  of  Europe  derived  inestimable  lessons  from  the 
free  institutions  of  Italy,  and  the  courts  of  the  Italian  princes  afforded 
asylums  to  that  genius  which  has  survived  the  liberties  in  which  it 
had  its  origin.     The  mediaeval  history  of  Italy,  and  particularly  of  its 
central  provinces,  has  hitherto  been  scarcely  regarded  by  the  traveller, 
although  in  many  respects  it  is  not  less  interesting  than  the  history  of 
classical  times.     The  intimate  connection  of  her  early  institutions  with 
those  of  England,  and  the  part  which  many  of  our  countrymen  played 
in  the  great  drama  of  Italian  history,  associate  us  more  immediately 
with  this  period  than  with  any  other  in  her  annals.     We  may  perhaps 
recognise,  in  the  energy  and  originality  of  the  Italian  character  during 
the  middle  ages,  a  prototype  of  that  prodigious  activity  which  our  own 
country  has  acquired  under  the  influence  of  the  lessons  which  Italy 
taught  her.     We  must  at  least  r^ard  with  respect  a  people  who  have 
done  so  much  in  the  great  cause  of  human  amelioration,  and  admit 
that  the  period  in  which  Italy  started  from  her  slumber  and  led  the 
way  in  the  march  of  European  improvement,  is  one  of  the  most  brilliant 
eras  in  the  historv  of  the  world. 

The  physical  characters  of  Central  Italy  are  not  less  interesting  than 
her  historical  associations.  To  apply  our  remarks  more  particularly  to 
the  Papal  States,  we  may  say  without  hesitation  that  tneir  resources 
have  hitherto  been  very  imperfectly  appreciated.  We  are  convinced 
that  no  country  in  Europe  has  been  so  little  understood,  or  so  much 
misrepresented.  The  traveller  who  has  been  in  the  habit  of  hurrying 
from  bologna  to  Florence,  and  from  Florence  to  Rome,  neither  stopping 
to  explore  the  objects  which  present  themselves  on  the  road,  nor 
turning  aside  into  less  beaten  tracts,  can  have  formed  no  idea  of  the 
treasures  of  art  abundantly  placed  within  his  reach.  He  can  have 
had  wo  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  true  character  of 
tiie  people,  or  of  knowing  the  charms  of  the  provincial  cities.  In  regard 
to  art,  it  is  a  great  mistake  to  suppose  that  it  can  be  studied  exclusively 
in  the  galleries  of  the  great  capitals.  The  filiations  of  the  different 
schools,  the  links  of  the  chain  which  connect  together  the  lead\ci% 


nrrftODDCTiOK. — PeUugic  ArcMUclure 


E 

HJspocht,  not  merely  in  painting,  but  tit  architecture  and  sculpture,  are 
^"Vo  be  sought,  not  in  the  halls  uf  the  nluneums  and  pulacea  of  Rotae, 
but  in  the  soiuller  cities,  where  everv  brnnch  of  urt,  under.lhe  patronage 
of  the  local  suvereignB  or  chs  republics,  lias  lelt  some  of  its  most  im* 
portant  works.  No  one  nho  has  not  deviated  from  the  high  roada 
can  know  how  richly  the  Papal  States  abound  in  provincial  cities,  in 
which  we  find  all  the  cl^ancieii  of  life  couiliiiied  with  iDuseums,  and 
palaces,  and  mstituttons,  (ar  beyond  most  other  countries  of  Europe. 
It  is  only  by  seeking  them  in  their  own  homes  that  we  can  appreciate 
the  educated  and  courteous  character  of  the  provincial  nobiiitj',  the 
NitelliKence  of  the  middle  ranks,  and  the  merits  of  a  very  noble  p^oan- 
try.  We  know  nothing  more  delightful  than  the  unaffected  houpitality 
which  the  stranger  meets  with  in  the  smaller  towns,  or  the  secnrity 
felt  among  the  open-hearted  people,  who  have  not  lost  their  nntionw 
character  among  the  crowds  of  the  great  capitals.  The  stranger  who 
possesses  the  main  secret  to  the  conBiIenee  of  the  people  —  the  power 
of  confersiog  with  them  in  their  own  language — may  travel  over  all 
parts  of  the  States  and  be  sure  of  finding  friends.  We  have  explored 
the  least  known  and  least  frequented  districts,  have  traversed  the 
mountains  unprotected,  and  have  dwelt  among  their  remotest  villi^es 
for  days  together,  with  a  sense  of  security  which  we  had  never  occasion 
to  regret. 

The  scenery  of  Central  Italy  ia  another  charm  which  will  appeal 
probably  to  a  larger  class.  Whatever  may  be  the  beauties  of  particular 
districts  traversed  by  the  high  road,  the  finest  characters  of  Italian 
Bcenery  must  be  sought,  like  the  jieople,  beyond  the  beaten  track. 
The  fertility  of  the  March  of  Ancona,  the  rich  cultivation  of  Romugna, 
the  beautiful  country  intersected  by  the  Velino,  the  Melauro,  the  Anio, 
taiA  the  Sacco,  have  each  an  interest  of  a  different  character,  which 
the  traveller  will  not  be  long  in  appreciating  as  they  deserve.  Nothing 
can  be  more  picturesque  than  the  forma  of  the  Umbrian  mountains,  qr 
more  rich  than  the  delicious  valleys  which  burst  upon  the  traveller  at 
different  stages  of  his  juitrney.  Nature  there  appears  in  a  richness  of 
colouring  to  which  the  eye  has  never  been  before  accustomed.  In  the 
southern  provinces  the  purity  of  atmosphere  is  combined  with  an 
harmonious  repose  of  nature,  the  costumes  of  the  people  are  in  the 
Jii^est  degree  picturesque,  and  the  buildings  have  the  rare  merit  of 
ifeing  perfectly  in  keeping  with  the  scenery. 

Among  the  first  objects  which  will  be  presented  to  the  traveller,  the 
monuments  of  antiquity  are  the  most  important.  We  shall  therefore 
Mate,  as  concisely  as  possible,  such  general  facts  in  reference  to  their 
archseological  characters,  as  may  be  necessary  to  prepare  the  traveller 
tor  their  study. 

13,   PELISCIC    ARCHITECTURE. 

No  circumstance  is  so  much  calculated  to  mislead  the  stranger  who 
travels  into  Italy  for  the  purposes  of  study,  as  the  frequent  misap- 
plication of  the  terms   Pelasgic,  Cyclopean,  and  Etruscan.      Every 
specimen  of  ancient  architecture  in  Middle  Italy  has  been  called  by 
Hipne  or  other  of  these  names,   merely  because  the  style  is  colosBal 


mTBOiyvCTiON^'^PehiSfficArckUecture.  xvii 

compared  to  the  later  works  of  Roman  construction.  Even  the  best- 
known  cities  of  Etruria,  where  we  have  the  monuments  of  a  people 
confessedly  distinct  from  all  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  Italian  pe- 
ninsula, have  been  described  as  Cyclopean  and  Pelasgic.  The  three 
terms  have  sometimes  been  applied  to  the  same  objects,  and  by  the 
same  writers.  We  are  at  a  loss  to  imagine  how  any  travellers  who 
have  personally  examined  the  country,  or  studied  the  early  history  of 
Italy  on  the  spot,  can  have  fallen  into  such  an  error.  To  apply  the 
term  Cyclopean  to  the  Etruscan  style  is  not  less  absurd  than  to 
identify  the  Druidical  temples  of  Stonehenge  and  Abury  with  the 
massive  style  of  our  early  Saxon  architecture.  This  misapplication  of 
terms  is  of  serious  importance  to  the  Italian  traveller.  It  perplexes 
him  at  the  very  outset  of  his  inquiries,  and  history  is  confounded  by 
the  very  monuments  which  are  its  best  expositors. 

The  Pelasgic  remains,  of  which  the  Papal  States  contain  so  large  a 
share,  may  be  classed  among  those  remarkable  confirmations  of  history 
which  have  been  derived  in  recent  years  from  a  more  accurate  study 
of  archaeology.  Whether  the  Pelasgi  were  originally  a  people  from 
Thrace,  or  from  a  country  still  more  northward,  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  they  were  the  great  colonists  of  Southern  Europe.  They  may  be 
foUoweu  from  Th^saly  to  Asia  Minor,  through  the  greater  part  of 
Greece,  and  through  many  islands  of  the  .^ean.  We  know  that  they 
united  with  the  Hellenes  to  form  the  Greek  nation,  that  they  built 
Argos  and  Lycosura  (b.  c.  1820),  which  Pausanias  calls  **  the  most 
ancient,  and  the  model  from  which  all  other  cities  were  built."  Ac- 
cording to  the  historians,  two  distinct  colonies  emigrated  to  Central 
Italy,  then  occupied  by  its  earliest  |)eople,  the  Umbri,  a  race  probably 
of  Celtic  origin.  The  first  came  direct  from  Lycosura  and  settled  in 
Umbria,  where  they  united  with  the  Umbri.  The  Oscans  and  the 
Siculi  are  supposed  to  have  been  branches  either  of  this  united  stock, 
or  of  the  Umbri  alone.  The  second  Pelasgic  colony  invaded  Italy 
from  Dodona,  and  brought  with  them  many  arts  unknown  to  their 
predecessors.  They  settled  in  the  upper  valley  of  the  Velinus,  about 
the  modem  frontier  of  Rome  and  Naples,  near  Rieti.  The  first,  or 
Umbrian,  colony  seems  to  have  lost  its  Greek  language  at  an  early 

Eeriod,  if  we  may  jud^e  from  the  Eugubian  tables,  which  confirm  these 
istorical  statements  m  their  most  important  facts.  It  is  not  the  least 
interesting  circumstance  arising  out  of  the  history  of  this  colony,  that 
the  Latin  language  is  considered  to  derive  its  Greek  element  from  the 
Pelasgi,  and  all  its  Latin  from  the  Umbrians.  The  Pelasgi  were 
subdued  in  their  turn  by  a  race  called  Tyrrheni  by  the  Greeks,  and 
Etrusci  by  the  Romans,  about  fifly  years  before  the  Trojan  war ;  and  in 
the  time  of  Tarquimns  Priscus  the  whole  race  appears  to  have  disap- 
peared as  one  of^the  leading  nations  of  Italy. 

This  historical  sketch  is  confirmed  by  the  ruins  the  Pelasgi  have  hh 
behind  them.  The  first  colony  built  no  cities  for  themselves,  but 
appear  to  have  occupied  those  alreai'y  inhabited  by  the  Umbri ;  the 
second  settled  in  the  upper  valley  of  the  Velinus,  and  thence  si)read 
over  a  large  portion  of  the  country  to  the  south.     Accordingly,  in  tlie 


ei  iNTBODUCTiOH.  —P^atgic  ArcTiilecCure. 

hhourhood  of  Rieti,  we  find  a  large  cluster  of  ancient  ctlies,  ninny 
VI   #hich  are  still  to  be  identified  by  the  descriptions  and  distances 
haodetl  down  to  us  by  the  Greek  and  Homan  histarian&     The  whole 
diatrict  is  covered  with  their  niins.     We  find,  in  llie   precise  locality 
indiculed  by  Dionyaius,  the  walb  of  Palatlum,  from  which  Evander 
^^d  his  Arcadian  colonists  emigrated  to  Rome  forty  years  before  the 
rojan  war.     We  recognise  the  sites  of  other  cities  of  equal  interest 
id  in  some  inetances  discover  that  their  naniea  have  undergone  but 
tile  change.     We  trace  the  Pelasgi  from  this  spot  in  their  course 
Mithwards,  along  the  western  slopes  of  the  Sabine  hills,  and  mark 
Wir  progress  in  civilisation  by  the  more  massive  and  artificial  style  of 
Dnstniction  which  they  adopted.      Their  cities  were  now  generally 


of  their  military  architecture  becomes  more  apparent  as  we  approach 
thrir  southern  limits.  Hence  the  very  finest  specimens  of  Felasgic 
constnu'tion  in  Europe  are  to  be  fomid  south  of  the  Sabine  chain  at 
Alatri,  Arpino,  and  other  towns  on  the  frontier,  which  will  be  de- 
scribed in  the  Ifand-Book  for  Southern  Italy, 

The  style  of  their  construction  was  almost  invariably  polygonal, 
consisting  of  enormous  blocks  of  stone,  the  angles  of  one  exactly 
correspon;ling  with  those  of  the  adjoining  masses.  They  were  put 
together  trithout  cement,  and  so  accurately  as  to  leave  no  interstices 
whatever.  This  style  may  be  traced  throughout  Greece,  Asia  Minor, 
and  all  the  countries  which  history  describes  as  colonised  by  the 
Pdasgic  tribes.  The  only  exceptions  to  the  polygonal  style  are 
where  the  formation  of  the  country  presented  a  calcareous  .stone, 
occurring  naturally  in  parallel  strata,  and  obviously  suggesting  the 
horizontal  mode  of  construction.  Another  variety  was  produced  by 
local  circumstances  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rome,  where  tufa  is  the 
prevailing  stone.  At  Tusculum,  (or  example,  the  softness  and  quality 
of  the  tuiu  pointed  out  the  horizontal  style ;  and  thus,  in  the  rare 
instances  in  which  the  Pelasgi  were  compelled  to  adopt  tufa  as  their 
material,  the  blocks  incline  to  parallelograms.  Even  here,  however, 
where  the  style  was  evidently  controlled  by  circumstances,  the  taste 
.  lor  the  national  custom  may  still  be  recognised;  and  we  often  find  that 
blocks  have  been  shaped  so  as  to  deviate  in  many  places  from 
'  ir  squares,  and  that  they  ore  sometimes  cut  into  curves.  At  the 
of  Ampiglione,  near  Tivoli,  the  supposed  site  of  Empulum,  we 
illBre  probably  the  most  ancient  esample  of  the  Pelasgic  style  in  tub. 
It  b  entirely  polygonal,  but  the  bloclu  were  apparently  found  broken 
into  irregulm-  masses  by  their  fall  from  the  mountains,  and  therefore 
aflbrded  peculiar  tUcilities  for  this  construction.  Instances  of  this  are 
not  wanting  farther  south.  In  the  wild  mountain-pass,  leading  from 
the  valley  of  Sulmona  to  the  Piano  di  Cinguemlglia,  in  the  second 
province  of  Abruzzo  Ultra,  we  have  observed  in  the  precipitous  ravines 
frequent  exaniples  of  limestone  so  broken  that  they  might  almost  have 
been  called  I'elasgic  as  they  stood.  We  may  therefore  assume  as  a 
general  rule,  that  whenever  the  materials  wliich  the  Pelasgi  employed 


iNTm>J>JJCno^.''^  Ct/clopean  Architecture.  xix 

were  of  hard  stone,  the  polygonal  construction  was  adopted  in  its 
utmost  purity,  and  whenever  the  geological  formation  of  the  country 
presented  tufa  or  soft  calcareous  stone  occurring  in  natural  horizontal 
strata,  their  style  was  modified  accordingly,  but  always  retained  more 
or  less  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  their  national  architecture.  The 
Roman  kings  imitated  the  polygonal  style  in  all  cases  where  the  hard 
stone  was  unfavourable  to  the  parallelograms  of  Etruria,  and  hence  we 
find  polygonal  walls  in  many  towns  of  Latium  which  are  known  to 
date  from  this  period.  Even  xluring  the  republic  the  polygonal 
construction  was  adopted  in  some  of  the  most  important  works* 
We  see  it  in  the  substructions  of  the  Appian  and  other  great 
military  roads,  and  recognise  it  still  more  frequently  in  the  villas 
around  Tivoli. 

12.  CYCLOPEAN   ARCHITECTURE. 

The  difference  of  style  between  the  Pelasgic  and  Etruscan  is  not 
more  strongly  marked  than  that  between  the  Pelasgic  and  Cyclopean. 
We  have  already  seen  that  the  Pelasgi  built  the  walls  of  Lycosura 
eighteen  centuries  before  Christ,  and  that  Pausatiias  describes  it  as  the 
most  ancient  of  all  such  cities.  The  walls  of  Tiryns  and  Mycense  were 
built  about  four  centuries  later,  and  according  to  the  same  authority 
by  a  different  people,  the  Cyclopes.  As  these  two  cities,  though 
upwards  of  3000  years  old,  are  still  as  perfect  as  when  Pausanias 
visited  them  sixteen  centuries  ago,  we  may  r^ard  them  as  the  type  of 
all  similar  structures  which  we  shall  meet  with  either  in  Greece  or 
Italy.  That  the  Cyclopean  style  vi  really  the  work  of  a  people 
different  from  the  Pelasgi  is  proved  by  numerous  circumstances. 
Euripides  describes  the  walls  of  Mycerae  as  built  in'  the  Phoenician 
method  ;  and  Pausanias  found  the  style  so  peculiar  that  he  thought  it 
necessary  to  describe  it.  His  description,  written  from  personal  ob- 
servation, applies  at  this  day,  not  only  to  the  Greek  cities,  but  to  every 
other  example  of  the  style  which  we  shall  meet  with  elsewhere.  "  The 
walls,**  he  says,  "  the  only  portion  which  remains,  are  built  of  rough 
stones  (\i9tjv  dpyStv),  so  large  that  the  smallest  of  them  could  not  be 
moved  from  their  position  by  a  pair  of  mules.  Smaller  stones  have 
been  inserted  between  them  m  order  that  the  larger  blocks  might  be 
more  firmly  held  together.**  Homer,  in  the  second  book  of  the  Iliad, 
characterises  Tiryns  as  the  walled  city  (TipwOa  n  rtixtoKTorav),  and 
mentions  Mycenae  as  remarkable  for  the  excellence  of  its  buildings 
(MvK^vac  ivKTtfuvov  irro\U9pov).  To  these  facts  we  shall  only  add, 
that  the  Cyclopean  style,  wherever  it  is  found,  is  composed,  as  stated 
by  Pausanias,  of  irregular  polygonal  masses,  with  small  stones  filling  up 
the  interstices.  It  occurs  very  rarely  in  Italy,  and  is  best  seen  in  the 
ruins  of  Corniculum  near  Monte  Rotondo  (p.  177).  It  is  remarkable 
that  the  most  extraordinary  Cyclopean  work  in  existence,  the  great 
galler}'  of  Tiryns,  formed  by  cutting  away  the  superincumbent 
blocks  in  the  form  of  an  arched  roof,  has  its  counterpart  in  the 
triangular  gateway  of  the  Pelasgic  fortress  of  Arpino,  one  of  the 
most  singular  monuments  which  we  have  ever  seen  either  in  Greece 
or  Italv. 


F 


rcTiON. —  The  Etnincans. 


13.  ■ 

The  inbabitanls  of  Ecruria  were  a  people  altogether  liigtiiict  from 
the  PeUsgic  colon ists,  ttiough  prubobiy  desoeiitleil  from  tile  Eame 
great  family.  The  Grt:ek  historians,  as  we  have  already  remarked, 
invariably  called  them  Tyrrheni,  while  the  Raiauns  call  them  Etrusci. 
HeroJtfto^,  Strabo,  Cicero,  and  Plutarch,  say  that  they  were  of  Ljdiati 
"'ieiD,  that  they  left  their  native  landonaccuuntof  a  protracted  famine, 
liled  from  Smyrna,  and  settled  in  Umbria.  Dionysius  of  HHlicHrnasius 
its  altogether  from  this  ecatejnent,  and  regards  them  aa  od  iodt* 

a  race  of  Italy ;  but,  in  spite  of  the  objections  of  so  weighty  aa 

llbority,  it  is  impossible,  with  our  extended  knowledge  of  the  inner 

' -■  habits  of  the  Etruacana  as  developed  in  their  tombs,  no'  " 

the  conclusion  that  their  national  customs,  their  religious  ri 
and  thdr  domestic  manners,  must  have  been  derived  from  an  Asiatic 
source.  The  ElruHcans  subdued  the  Uinbri  and  Pelasgi,  who  finally 
diaappeared  as  distinct  people  by  incorporation  with  thetr  conquerors. 


It' 


They  spread  in  tune  over  the  whole  of  central  Italy,  and  a: 
SB  Campania,  where  they  founded  Capua.  They  had  no  doubt 
acquired  much  knowledge  from  the  Pelas^  but  by  encouraging  Greek 
artists  to  settle  among  them  they  derived  nearly  all  their  more  im- 
portant arts  directly  from  (ireece.  We  know  that  Dcmaratus  of 
Corinth  brought  with  him  to  Turquinii  the  plastic  art  and  the  manU' 
lactiire  of  brasa  or  bronxe,  which  afterwards  obtained  such  celebrity  ii 
alt  the  cities  of  Etruriii-  The  names  of  artists  which  occur  on  thi, 
vases  of  Magna  Or^ecia  are  seen  on  many  of  those  found  among  the 
43ties  of  Etruria :  all  these  vases  of  Greek  origin  are  far  superior  in 
workmanship  to  those  found  at  Clusium  and  other  nlaces  where 
Etruscan  characters  are  combined  with  a  coarser  material  and  a  ruder 
art.  The  connection  of  Etruria  with  Egypt,  either  directly  by  com- 
merce, or  indirectly  tlirough  Greece,  is  shown  by  vases  of  Egjptian 
fomii  if  not  of  Egyptian  mnnuliicture  ;  by  scarabtci  imitating  the  lorms 
of  Egypt,  and  freijuently  inscribed  with  subjects  taken  from  the 
Egyptian  mythology.  It  would  carry  us  far  beyond  our  limits  to 
pursue  this  branch  of  the  inquiry,  and  indeed  it  is  impossible,  withouC 
entering  into  ample  details,  to  dojusbce  to  the  subject.  It  may,  how- 
ever, be  said,  that  by  far  the  largest  proportion  of  the  arts  and  civilization 
of  Etruria  came  from  Greece.  In  architecture  the  Etruscan  walls  are 
generally  built  of  parallelograiiis  of  sol^  calcareous  stone  or  of  tufa, 
udd  together  with  more  or  less  regularity,  in  horizontal  courses  without 
eement.  'The  architecture  of  their  tombs  has  a  subterranean  character, 
brang  sometimes  excavated  in  rocks  above  ground,  as  at  Casteld'AsBO; 
and  at  othei?  stmk  beneath  the  surface,  and  covered  with  tumuli  or 
eones  of  masonry.  When  excavated  in  the  form  pf  cavern  sepulchres 
they  are  decorated  with  architectural  ornaments,  which  again  show  the 
influence  of  Grecian  art.  The  mouldings  of  their  facades,  and  the  rude 
imitations  of  triglyphs,  are  but  a    corruption  of  Doric.     The  doors, 

Iroontracting  towards  the  top,  in  some  instances  resemble  the  Egjptian, 
JHit  in  others  the>  differ  little  from  the  style  still  visible  in  Greece,  and     [ 


uttboductiok.  —  The  Rotndns.  zxi 

of  which  the  great  door  of  the  Treasury  of  Atreus  at  MycensB  is  liie 
finest  example.  The  architecture  of  their  temples,  as  preserved  in  the 
style  adopted  as  Tuscan  by  the  Romans,  also  shows  an  identity  of 
principles  with  the  oldest  form  of  Doric.  Their  paintings  are  Grecian 
in  style,'in  mythology,  in  costumes,  and  in  the  ceremonies  they  rq)resent. 
Their  bronzes  are  also  in  the  Greek  style,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
manufacture  may  probably  be  attributed  to  the  CSorinthian  colonists 
mhready  mentioned.  Their  sculpture  is  peculiar  to  themselves.  It  has 
neither  the  boldness  of  the  .£ginetan  marbles,  nor  the  reposejof  the 
£g3rptian.  With  just  proportions,  the  forms  of  the  human  figure  are 
undefined,  the  position  of  the  limbs  is  constrained  and  stu£ed,  the 
drapery  is  arranged  with  a  minute  attention  to  regularity  approach- 
ing to  stifihess,  and  the  countenances  are  often  wanting  in  character 
and  expression.  Of  their  language,  as  preserved  to  us  in  inscrip* 
tions,  we  know  absolutely  nothing;  and  of  the  words  which  have 
been  handed  down  to  us  by  the  Romans  as  examples  of  the  Etruscan 
tongue,  the  two  most  commonly  met  with  in  inscriptions,  are  Lar^ 
kinj^  and  Lasne,  the  name  of  Etruria  itself.  The  only  expression 
satislactorily  made  out  is  the  very  common  one  of  Ril  avil,  vixU 
annoM ;  beyond  this  all  is  mere  conjecture.  In  fact,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  extraordmary  phenomena  connected  with  this  wonderful  people, 
that  their  alphabet  is  almost  entirelv  deciphered,  and  yet  theu*  lan^age 
remains  unintelligible.  It  is  unexplained  by  Hebrew,  Greek,  Latm,  or 
Celtic  Nearly  every  letter  is  proved  to  be  Greek,  or  rather  that 
oldest  form  of  it  which  is  termed  Pelasgic.  It  was  written  generally 
firom  right  to  lef^  like  the  inscriptions  of  the  Eugubian  tables,  in  which 
the  Pelasgic  letter  is  also  recognised.  The  Etruscan  words,  however, 
have  no  affinity  with  the  Umbrian  of  those  celebrated  monuments* 
The  bilingual  inscriptions  hitherto  discovered  have  been  very  few,  and 
have  not  been  of  a  character  to  throw  light  on  this  difficult  subject. 
Is  it  likely  that  some  Rosetta  stone  will  yet  be  discovered,  in  which 
we  may  find  the  long-lost  key  to  the  literature  of  this  mysterious 
people? 

14.  THE  BOMANS. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  Rome  derived  her  earliest  ideas  of  art  and 
civilization  firom  Etruria.  The  Tuscan  style  was  adopted  by  the 
Romans  for  their  earliest  temples,  and  the  massive  forms  of  Etrus- 
can architecture  were  employed  in  their  greatest  public  works.  They 
derived  their  religious  ceremonies  from  the  pnestly  aristocracy  of 
Etruria,  and  adopted  the  Etruscan  arts  of  manufacture  without  im- 
proving them.  We  must  not  therefore  look  for  much  originality  in 
Roman  works.  From  the  period  of  the  Kings  to  the  conquest  of 
Greece,  art,  so  far  from  improving  under  the  Romans,  gradually  de- 
clined. Even  after  that  event  had  opened  a  new  field  of  observation, 
and  created  a  desire  for  works  of  art,  the  artists  of  the  conquered 
nations  were  the  only  persons  who  were  capable  of  supplying  them* 
80  long  as  the  architecture  of  Etruria  maintained  its  influence  at 
Rome,  the  public  works  were  characterised  by  great  durability  and 
grandeur.     The  bridges,  the  public  roads,  and  the  colossal  a<\ufidMC\A> 


r 


INTRODUCTION. —  TliE  liomam. 

nil  |)rabably  HugsesteJ  by  the  Etruscans,  anil  Rojue  excelled 
more  in  tliese  wurks  of  public  utility  tlian  in  any  other  branch  of  art. 
As  the  TuKcan  style  was  Imported  for  the  earliest  works  of  Home,  so 
■he  nev  conquests  led  to  the  introduction  of  Doric,  Iod'c,  and  Coriu 
thian  from  Greece.  But  the  beauty  of  Ureek  art,  founded  upon  un 
devinting  principles  subservient  to  one  main  idea,  was  speedilj  cot 
nu)ted  :  the  Romans  retained  nothing  but  its  forms  j  they  rejected  it_ 
pruiciplea,  and  at  length  corrupted  what  reDiBioed  with  devices  of  ihrir 
own.  Of  all  the  works  which  the  Kcimans  have  left  to  us,  the  most 
faultless  in  its  proportions  and  the  most  beautiful  In  its  generul  effect  ii 
the  fantliear.  The  circular  tombs,  aod  possibly  the  circulnr  temples, 
weK  adojited  from  the  Etruscans,  but  with  such  niodificalions  end 
improvements  as  have  made  tliem  rank  among  the  most  interesting 
monuments  of  Rome.  About  the  time  of  Augustus,  the  Composite, 
Of  Roman  order,  seems  to  have  been  invented.  The  earliest  example 
of  this  style  is  the  Arch  of  Titus.  There,  as  in  the  later  works  of  the 
emjiire,  in  the  CuIiEeum,  the  baths,  the  theatres,  &c.,  we  have,  as  the 
leading  characteristics,  a  combination  of  the  arch  with  the  Grecian 
orders,  in  which  for  the  first  time  columns  are  employed,  not  as  cssen- 
tiais  to  the  stability  of  the  structure,  but  as  mere  ornaments.  This 
innovation  nHtumUy  led  to  the  employment  of  the  column  for  other 
purposes,  and  hence  we  find  au  isolated  pillar  used  either  as  a  funerid 
or  triumphal  monument.  The  allegiance  of  the  Romans  to  Greek  art 
became  gradually  weaker,  pnd  was  at  last  completely  thrown  off  in  the 
Banilicns.  The  Roman  domestic  architecture  is  only  to  be  studied 
with  advantage  at  Pompeii :  it  would  be  out  of  place  therefore  to  en 
into  details  in  the  preseut  volume,  more  particularly  as  the  subject  v 
be  examined  in  detail  in  the  Iland-Book  for  ijouthern  Italy. 
painting,  the  only  remains  we  have  of  Roman  art  are  the  fragments 
discoveried  in  tombs,  in  the  Cuths  of  Titus,  &c.  These  are  mostly 
arabesques,  but  whenever  compositions  are  attempted,  they  are  mostly 
filinple  groups,  or  im  ejiisoJe  complete  in  itEelf.  The  lioxxe  Aldo- 
briindim  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  this  kind.  In  the  greater 
number  of  examples  found  at  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  the  subjects 
are  either  illustrative  of  some  tale  of  classical  mythology,  or  represent 
some  single  ii$;ure  ns  a  dancer,  lhi-own  out  in  fine  relief  on  a  dark 
ground.  All  these,  however,  are  mere  house  decorations,  and  we  hs 
no  work  which  the  ancients  themselves  described  with  praise. 
sculpture,  the  Romans  showed  as  little  originality  and  as  little  nat; 
talent  as  in  other  branches  of  art.  Most  of  the  works  which  have  sur- 
vived to  our  time,  if  iiot  imported  from  Greece  as  the  spoils  of  c 


quest,  were  executed  in  Italy  by  Greek  artists,  down  to  the  latest 
»erind  of  the  empire.     Of  the  leading  works  of  this  class  we 
n  that  the  Laocoon  is  referred  by  ihe  best  authorities  t 


time  of  Titus,  the  Apollo  Belvedere  to  that  of  Nero,  the  Antinous  to 
titat  of  Hadrian,  and  tbe  Torso  Belvedere  is  probably  still  later.  Even 
the  imperial  statues  arc  (supposed  to  be  the  work  of  Greek  sculptors, 
resident  at  Rome  ;  and  the  statues  of  the  Grecian  divinities  perhaps 
owe  their  excellence  to  the  devotional  feeling  with  which  a  (' 


mxEODUCTiON. —  Christian  Architecture,  xxiii 

would  have  entered  on  his  task.  Under  Hadrian,  we  have  a  striking 
proof  of  the  imitation  of  foreign  examples,  in  the  numerous  copies  of 
£g}ptian  architecture  and  art.  The  chamber  of  Canopus  in  the 
Capitol  is  filled  with  statues  of  this  class,  all  highly  finished,  but 
bearing  ample  evidence  of  Greek  art  applied  to  l^gyptian  subjects. 
The  l^s-reliefs  of  the  Sarcophagi  form  an  important  class  of  sculp* 
tures,  which  might  well  be  treated  at  greater  length  than  our  limits 
will  allow.  In  them  we  read  the  metaphysical  religion  of  the  time 
expressed  by  such  fables  of  mythology  as  have  reference  to  death. 
The  Cupid  and  Psyche,  the  story  of  Endymion,  the  battle-scenes 
from  the  poets,  are  all  sufficiently  explicit ;  but  in  the  later  examples 
the  symbolical  meaning  becomes  more  obscure,  until  we  have  the 
last  example  of  foreign  imitation  in  the  introduction  of  the  Mithratic 
mysteries.  Many  of  these  works  are  of  the  highest  class  of  sculp* 
ture,  and  are  full  of  materials  of  study  both  to  the  artist  and 
mythologist. 

15.  CHRISTIAN  ARCHITECTURE. 

The  early  Christian  architecture,  avoiding  the  forms  of  the  pagan 
temples,  chose  for  its  models  the  ancient  Basilicas,  which  had  served 
during  the  latter  portion  of  the  empire  as  the  seats  of  the  public 
tribunals.  If  the  buildings  themselves  were  not  actually  used  for 
Christian  worship,  their  form  and  general  arrangement  were  so  well 
adapted  to  the  purpose  that  they  were  imitated  with  little  change. 
The  form  of  the  central  avenue  allowed  it  to  be  easily  converted  into 
the  nave  or  ship  of  St.  Peter,  the  great  characteristic  of  a  Christian 
church.  Even  the  raised  tribune,  which  was  peculiarly  the  seat  of 
justice,  was  so  well  fitted  for  the  seat  of  the  bishop,  who  might  thence, 
like  a  true  Episropus,  look  down  on  the  congregation,  that  the  form 
nnd  title  are  still  preserved  in  churches  which  have  none  of  the 
distinctive  characters  of  the  basilica.  The  most  important  trace  of  the 
heathen  temple  which  remained  in  the  Roman  basilica,  was  the 
continuous  architrave.  This  was  speedily  abandoned,  and  the  columns 
were  tied  together  by  a  series  of  arches.  The  basilica,  thus  modified 
and  adapted  for  Christian  worship,  was  perhaps  deficient  in  symmetry 
and  proportion,  but  the  simple  grandeur  of  its  style  contained  the  germ 
of  the  ecclesiastical  architecture  of  all  Christendom.  The  form  was 
oblong,  consisting  of  the  nave  and  two  side  aisles,  separated  by  lines 
of  colunms.  From  these  columns  sprung  a  series  of  arches  supporting 
n  high  wall  pierced  with  windows,  and  sustaining  the  bare  wooden 
roof.  At  the  extremity  was  the  semicircular  tribune,  or  absis,  elevated 
above  the  rest  of  the  interior  for  the  bishop's  seat.  In  front  between 
the  tribune  and  the  body  of  the  nave,  was  the  choir  with  its  two 
unibotics  or  stone  pulpits,  from  which  the  Epistle  and  Gospel  were 
read.  The  nave  beyond  it  was  divided  into  two  portions,  the  aula  or 
open  space  where  the  congregation  was  assembled,  the  men  on  one 
hide  and  the  women  on  the  other,  and  the  narlhcx  for  the  catechumens 
and  the  lesser  penitents.  One  of  the  lateral  aisles,  as  in  the  courts  of 
*U8tice,  was  also  set  apart  for  the  males,  and  the  other  for  the  females  ; 


F 


INTBODUOTIOM.  ■ —  Christian  Architecture. 


^d  nfter  this  ancient  division  of  ihe  aula  and  iiarthex  was  abandoned, 
upper  row  of  column*  was  introduced  into  the  HBve,  ivhere  galienes 
were  constructed  for  the  women.  In  front  of  the  building  was  the 
quadri-porticus  or  fore-court,  for  the  lowest  class  of  penitents,  eur- 
roundeil  on  the  inner  side  by  a  covered  cloister,  and  having  a  fountaia 
in  the  middle  at  which  the  people  might  wash  tl-eir  hands  before  they 
entered  the  building.  The  traveller  will  doubtless  lose  no  opportUDitj 
of  visiting  an  example  of  this  earliest  form  of  Cliristian  churches.  He 
inust,  therefore,  at  the  commencement  of  his  tour,  adojit  the  principle 
we  have  already  laid  down,  and  diverge  from  the  beaten  track.  He 
must  proceed  in  the  first  place  to  Ravenna,  where,  surrounded  by  the 
monuments  of  three  kiogdoms,  he  will  be  enabled  to  study  a  collection 
of  Christian  antiquities  which  have  undergone  no  change  since  the 
time  of  Justinian.  In  the  church  of  S.  Apollinarc  in  CUisse  he  will 
fiutl  a  purer  niecimen  of  the  Christian  basilica  than  any  which  now 
exists  out  of  Rome,  and  in  the  mosaics  profiasely  scattered  over  the 
various  churches  of  the  city  he  will  see  the  first  attempts  of  Christian 
art  to  embody  the  inspirations  of  religion.  At  Rome,  the  finest 
example  of  a  basilica  is  the  venerable  church  of  San  Clemente,  in 
which  we  still  recognise  the  choir  with  its  amboncs.  the  tribune,  and 
the  quadriporcicus.  In  S.  Agnese,  and  S.  Lorenzo,  we  see  the  upper 
row  of  columns  for  the  femnle  gallery;  in  S.  Lorenzo,  S.  Paolo,  and 
Other  churches  we  recognise  the  ancient  portico,  though  the  rest  of 
the  atrium  has  disappeared.  At  Ravenna,  the  traveller  will  also  have 
an  opportunity  of  studying  the  Byzantine  period  of  art.  Under  the 
Eastern  Emperors,  the  city  was  enriched  with  the  finest  examples  of 
religious  architecture  which  the  world  had  then  seen  beyond  the  walls 
of  Constantinople.  The  church  of  8.  Vitule,  built  on  the  plan  of 
6.  Sophia,  was  the  first  edifice  in  Italy  constructed  with  a  dome,  which 
was  previously  the  peculiar  feature  of  the  eastern  church.  We  may 
therefore  examine  in  the  Byzantine  dome  of  S.  Vitale,  and  in  iho 
basilica  of  8.  Apollinare,  the  two  objects  which  still  continue,  after 
innumerable  vicissitudes,  the  elements  of  Christian  architecture  through- 
out Europe.  We  shall  not  dwell  on  the  Lombard  architecture  to  be 
met  with  in  the  Papal  States,  and  shall  touch  very  lightly  on  the 
examples  of  Italian  Gothic,  all  of  which  are  noticed  in  detail  in  the 
_  iiody  of  the  work.  If  the  introduction  of  the  dome,  and  the  religious 
I  witiqulties  of  Ravenna  generally,  are  to  be  attributed  to  the  patronage 
I  of  the  Eastern  Emperors,  the  introduction  of  the  Gothic  style  into 
Italy  must  be  ascribed  to  the  connection  of  the  leading  towns  with  the 
emperors  of  Germany.  In  some  of  the  very  few  examples  in  which 
(as  at  Assist,  and  perhaps  at  Subiaco)  the  origin  of  the  st^le  can  be 
traced  directly  to  the  German  artists,  we  have  the  Gothic  rivalling  the 
purity  of  transalpine  churches  ;  but  in  others  of  a  later  date,  designed 
probably  by  native  artists  who  had  seen  only  the  works  of  the  foreign 
architects  m  Italy,  the  influence  of  classical  examples  was  never  wholly 
thrown  otT.  We  see  it  forming  the  well-known  style  now  called  the 
Italian  Gothic,  in  the  cathedrals  and  churches  of  Siena,  Orvieta, 
3olognn,  Arezzo,  Cortona,  and   other  places  in  all  parts  of  central 


mTBODUCTiGN. —  Sculpture,  •  xxv 

Italy.  The  Italian  Gothic  has  been  proved  by  Professor  Willis  to  be 
capable  of  a  much  more  extended  generalization  than  is  commonly 
supposed  ;  and  the  traveller  will  Iochl  in  vain  for  finer  examples  than 
those  presented  by  the  cathedrals  of  Orvieto  and  Siena.  In  the  fifteenth 
century,  Italian  architecture  in  its  modern  sense  was  developed  by  the 
revival  of  the  classical  styles.  In  the  previous  century,  the  public 
buildings  and  churches  had  shown  a  disposition  to  return  to  the  ancient 
models,  and  in  buildings  of  that  period  at  Perugia,  at  Ancona,  and  at 
numerous  small  towns  in  other  provinces,  the  passage  of  the  Gothic 
into  the  Roman  orders  is  distinctly  traceable.  The  new  style  was 
thoroughly  developed  by  Brunelleschi  after  the  completion  of  the  Pitti 
Palace  in  1450.  Without  doing  more  than  refer  to  his  cupola  of  the 
Duomo  at  Florence,  we  may  mention  the  triumphs  of  his  new  principles 
in  the  magnificent  churches  of  San  Lorenzo,  and  Santo  Spirito  in  that 
city.  His  great  follower  Leon  Battista  Albert!  gave  a  fresh  impulse  to 
the  revival,  by  his  noble  churches  of  S.  Andrea  and  S.  Sebastiano  at 
Mantua,  and  by  his  extraordinary  works  for  the  concealment  of  the 
pointed  Gothic  of  S.  Francesco  at  Kimini.  Baccio  Pintelli  introduced 
It  at  Rome  in  S.  Agostino  and  S.  Mana  del  Popolo  ;  and,  lastly,  it 
was  established  as  the  model  of  Italian  ecclesiastical  architecture  by 
Bramante.  ^ 

16.   CHRISTIAN   SCULPTURE. 

Whoever  would  study  the  condition  of  Christian  sculpture  in  the 
early  ages  of  the  Church  will  find  many  monuments  at  Ravenna  of 
peculiar  interest.  The  marble  urn  of  St.  Barbatian,  the  ivory  pastoral 
chair  of  St.  Maximian,  the  tomb  of  the  exarch  Isaac,  the  pulpit  of  the 
Arian  bishops  in  the  church  of  Santo  Spirito,  the  sculptured  crucifixes, 
and  other  objects  described  in  detail  in  our  account  of  that  imperial 
city,  are  precious  specimens  of  art  of  the  sixth  and  seventh  centuries. 
At  Rome  the  most  remarkable  are  the  sarcophagi  of  Junius  Bassus 
and  of  Anicius  Probus,  in  St.  Peter's.  They  are  covered  with  bas- 
reliefs  from  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  of  the  highest  interest  as 
examples  of  art  of  the  fourth  century.  Though  stiff  in  attitude  and 
drapery,  these  sculptures  are  far  superior  to  any  heathen  works  of  the 
two  preceding  centuries :  that  of  Junius  Bassus  is  supposed  to  have 
been  executed  at  Constantinople,  and  it  is  in  every  respect  one  of  the 
most  instructive  Christian  monuments  in  existence.  The  traveller 
who  may  desire  to  trace  the  progress  of  sculpture,  from  the  period  of 
its  revival  in  the  thirteenth  century  to  that  of  its  decline  in  the  school 
of  Bernini,  will  find  abundant  materials  in  the  Papal  States.  At 
Bologna,  he  will  see  in  the  tomb  of  S.  Domenico,  executed  in  1225, 
the  first  work  of  Niccolo  di  Pisa,  who  there  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
Christian  department  of  sculpture.  The  pulpit  at  Pisa  was  not  exe- 
cuted till  thirty  years  later ;  but  that  of  l^iena,  which  dates  only  one 
year  after  the  tomb  of  S.  Domenico,  is  not  inferior  as  a  work  of  art, 
and  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  finest  productions  of  this  great 
master.  The  tomb  of  Benedict  XI.  at  Perugia,  the  fountain  in  the 
great  s<]uare  of  the  same  city,  the  matchless  sculptures  on  the  fa9ade 

a 


Ofthi 

druli 


'wTEODncnow,  — Painting. 


of  the  Duomo  of  Orvieto,  the  marble  screen  of  8.  Donoto  in  the  cathe- 
drul  of  Arezzo,  all  b}^  hie  son  Giovanni  di  Pisa,  may  be  dossed  as  the 
next  stepa  of  the  revival.  The  great  work  of  his  scholar  CKovaani  di 
Balducci,  the  ehrine  of  St.  Peter  Martyr  in  the  church  of  St.  Eustor* 
gius  at  Milan,  is  another  important  liionument  which  the  traveller 
should  study  with  attention.  At  Arezzo  he  will  meet  with  an  example 
of  equal  interest  in  the  tomb  of  Guido  Tarlati,  the  warrior-bishop, 


executed  between   1328  and  I'SM  by  Agostino  and  Angelo  da  Siena. 
' — ' —  —ark  of  the  same  period  is   the  tomb  of  Gregory  X..  bv 
;,  which  he  will  also  find  in  the  cathedral  of  Arezzo. 


ler  class,  intermediate  between  the  first  masters  of  the  revival 
id  the  period  of  the  decline,  are  the  bas-reliefs  of  the  bronze  doors, 
'  which  Florence,  Pise,  Bologna,  and  other  cities  ofer  such  interesting 
iples.  We  mi^t  dwell  longer  on  the  details  and  enter  more  fully 
the  characteristics  of  the  several  schools  ;  but  anything  tike  a 
complete  catalogue  would  be  out  of  place  in  our  brief  summary,  and 
would  prolong  it  beyond  our  object  in  merely  directing  attention  to  the 
leading  monuments  of  the  art.  It  will  not  be  necessary  to  particularise 
the  works  of  Michael  Angelo  end  hia  contemporaries,  all  of  which  are 
of  course  considered  in  the  body  of  the  work  :  but  we  may  simply  re- 
mark, that  those  who  wish  to  study  the  history  of  sculpture  imme- 
diately after  it  assumed  that  colossal  character  and  exaggeration  of 
style  which  was  the  immediate  precursor  of  its  decline,  must  do  so 
at  Orvieto.  There  they  will  find  the  finest  collection  of  statues  by 
John  of  Bologna,  ScaUa,  Sun  Micheli,  Mochi,  and  other  artists  of  the 
period,  which  has  ever  been  brought  together.  At  Loreto  also  they 
will  meet  with  another  series  of  sculptures  by  Andrea  Sanaovino, 
Girolamo  Lombardi,  John  of  Bologna,  Bandinelli,  Guglielmo  della 
Porta,  Niccolo  Tribolo,  and  other  eminent  masters  of  the  sixteenth 
centnry,  which  are  quite  unrivalled  in  the  delicacy  of  iheir  style  and 
their  marvellous  power  of  expression. 

The  mosaics  of  the  early  Christian  Church  are  the  true  represent- 
atives of  painting  before  its  revival  in  the  schools  of  Cimabue  and 
Giotto.  Nowhere  are  they  so  remarkable  as  at  Ravenna,  where  they 
are  still  as  fresh  as  in  the  days  of  Justinian.  These  early  mosaics, 
though  oflien  rude  in  execution,  arc  astonishing  specimens  of  ex- 
pression :  many  of  them  breathe  a  spirit  of  pure  devotion,  and  are 
invaluable  to  the  Christian  antiquary  as  giving  him  a  perfect  epitome 
of  the  religious  ideas  and  symbols  of  the  time.  We  shall  not  enter 
into  a  critical  examination  of  the  Schools  of  Art,  as  those  which  come 
within  our  province  are  noticed  in  the  descriptions  oF  their  diflbrent 
localiticB  i  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  present  any  gener^  arrangemeat 
of  them  without  including  detmls  which  would  carry  us  into  other 
schools,  beyond  the  scope  of  the  present  volume.  We  shall  merely 
mention,  in  illustration  of  the  remark  already  made  respecting  the 
true  mode  of  seeing  Italy,  that  it  is  only  by  deviating  from  the  high 
roads  that  the  traveller  can  ajipreciate  the  works  of  the    ""'  ' 


INTBODUOTION. — Painting.  xxvii 

At  Orvieto,  for  example,  be  will  have  an  opportunity  of  studying  the 
beautiful  works  of  Gentile  da  Fabriano,  of  Beato  Angelico  da  Fiesole, 
of  Benozzo  Gozzoli,  and  of  Luca  Signorelli,  from  whose  wonderful 
frescoes  Michael  Angelo  did  not  disdain  to  borrow  for  his  great 
work  of  the  Last  Judgment.  At  Assisi  he  will  find  himself  amidst 
those  triumphs  of  Giotto  to  which  Dante  has  given  immortality.  He 
will  there  be  able  to  contrast  them  with  the  works  of  his  great  master 
Cimabue,  with  those  of  his  pupils  Puccio  Capanna,  Pace  da  Faenza, 
and  of  Pietro  Cavallini,  whose  picture  of  the  Crucifixion  was  so 
much  admired  by  Michael  Angelo.  At  Bologna  he  will  be  surrounded 
by  the  greatest  works  of  the  Eclectic  school,  founded  by  the  Caracci 
and  their  pupils  —  a  school  which  German  critics  are  disposed  to  esti- 
mate more  harshly  than  it  deserves.  Whatever  may  be  its  demerits 
on  the  score  of  originality,  the  English  traveller  will  not  forget  that 
it  was  treated  with  more  respect  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  who  re- 
commended the  student  to  devote  more  time  to  Bologna  than  it  had 
hitherto  been  the  custom  to  bestow.  The  works  of  Francesco  Francia, 
the  most  illustrious  name  in  the  history  of  the  Bolognese  school,  are 
not  liable  to  the  objections  urged  against  the  school  of  the  Caracci. 
This  great  master  has  only  lately  been  known  and  appreciated  in 
England  ;  and  the  traveller  who  is  at  all  acquainted  with  his  works 
will  not  fail  to  recollect  that  there  is  no  place  where  he  can  be  studied 
to  so  much  advantage  as  at  Bologna.  Among  the  cities  on  the  shores 
of  the  Adriatic  there  is  scarcely  one  which  does  not  contain  some 
work  which  is  an  episode  in  the  general  history  of  painting — a  link  in 
the  chain  which  connects  one  school  with  another,  and  shows  the 
means  by  which  their  filiation  was  accomplished.  The  little  towns 
of  Borgo  San  Sepolcro  and  Citta  di  Castello  may  claim  the  titles  of 
cities  of  painters.  Borgo  San  Sepolcro  was  the  birth-place  of  Pietro 
della  Francesca,  the  illustrious  master  of  Melozzo  da  Forli,  Luca 
Signorelli,  Santi  di  Tito,  and  other  eminent  painters.  From  the  works 
of  Pietro  della  Francesca  at  Arezzo  Raphael  derived  his  idea  for  the 
design  of  Constantine's  Vision  and  Victory,  in  the  Vatican  ;  and  was 
pro^bly  indebted  to  him  for  those  effects  of  light  and  shade  for  which 
the  Deliverance  of  St.  Peter,  in  the  Stanza  of  the  Heliodorus,  is  re- 
markable. Citta  di  Castello  is  still  rich  in  interesting  and  almost  un- 
known works  of  Luca  Signorelli,  Beato  Angelico,  and  other  masters, 
whose  stvle  exercised  an  important  influence  on  the  genius  of  Raphael. 
It  was  the  town  in  which  Raphael  found  his  earliest  patrons,  and  no 
less  than  four  of  his  most  celebrated  works  were  painted  for  its 
churches.  Though  these  have  passed,  since  the  Frencri  invasion,  into 
the  ^eat  calleries  of  Italy,  Citta  di  Castello  still  contains  two  at  least 
of  his  works,  which  are  justly  cherished  as  memorials  of  his  long  resi- 
dence in  the  town.  Siena  and  Perugia  are  also  remarkable  as  the 
centre  of  two  schools  of  painting,  whose  influence  on  the  great  masters 
of  the  fifteenth  century  is  confirmed  generally  by  their  works.  The 
School  of  Siena  is  nearly  equal  in  antiquity  to  that  of  Florence,  and 
presents  us  with  the  names  of  Guido  da  Siena,  Simone  and  Lippo 
Memmi,  Taddco  Bartolo,   Sodoma,  Beccafunii,  and  Baldassarc  Pe- 

a  2 


rteviii  WTRODtroTKOT. — Bookx. 

ruiii.  The  School  of  IJmbria,  of  wliith  Perugia  wus  the  centre,  may 
be  regarded  aa  the  transition  from  the  classical  style  prevalent  at 
Florence  lo  that  deep  religious  feeling  and  apiritufll  tendency  of  the 
art  nhich  attained  its  maturity  under  Raphael.  Its  early  masters 
irere  Niccolo  Alunno  and  Benedetto  Bonfigli,  the  immediate  prede- 
cessors of  Pietro  Perugino,  under  whose  instructions  in  that  aty  the 
>genmR  of  Raphiicl  was  tirst  developed,  (jiovatini  Sonti  of  ITrbino,  the 
n^er  of  Raphael,  is  generally  referred  to  this  school  ;  and  Perugia 
i^ll  contains  some  interesting  works  by  Raphael  himself,  in  which  iTie 
traveller  may  trace  the  influence  exercised  upon  his  style  by  the  early 
tTmbrian  masters. 

To  (hose  travellers  who  may  be  interesteil  in  the  arabesque  frescoes 
which  we  have  described  in  detail  in  our  account  of  Home,  it  will  be 
gratifying  to  leirn  that  this  beautiful  class  of  art  has  at  length  found  an 
able  illustrator  in  Mr.  Ludwig  Gruncr,  the  Saxon  artist,  whose  burin 
has  been  bo  successfully  employed  in  ditfiising  a  knowledge  of  the 
works  of  R^hael.  Mr.  Gruner's  '  Architectural  Decorations  of  Rome 
during  the  Piflecntb  and  Sixteenth  Centuries'  contnin  a  selection  from 
the  works  of  Raphael,  Giulio  Romano,  Baldassnre  Peruzzi,  Periuo  del 
Vaca,  Giovanni  da  Udine,  and  other  painters,  existing  in  the  Cortile  of 
S.  DaniusD  in  the  Vatican,  the  Palazzo  Famesina,  the  Villa  Madama, 
and  Other  villas  in  and  near  Rome.  Nothing  can  be  more  interesting 
than  these  arabesques  and  medallions,  and  travellers  will  no  doubt  be 

^EIad  to  have  the  power  of  recurring  to  them  and  of  studying  their 
oeauliful  detaila  after  the  completion  of  their  journey. 
A  catalogue  of  the  Books  which  might  be  recommended  to  the 
traveller  would  be  incomplete  if  it  did  not  include  a  much  larger  number 
than  can  be  conveniently  disposed  of  on  his  iourney-  Nothing  is  to 
great  an  incumbrance  as  a  multitude  of  books  in  travelling,  and  the 
ol^ects  which  command  attention  at  the  diderent  stages  of  the  tour 
occur  in  too  rapid  succession  to  allow  much  tiine  for  study  on  the  road  : 
we  shall  therefore  mention  only  such  works  as  may  be  useful  for  refer* 
ence,  or  in  perpetuating  the  memory  of  those  scenes  which  frequently 
survive  all  other  recollections  of  the  journey. 

For  general  information  on  Italy,  in  its  most  extended  sense,  we 
know  no  work  entitled  to  hij^her  praise  than  Mr.  Spalding's  Italy  and 
the  Ifai'utn  Itlands,  in  the  Edinburgh  Cabinet  Library.  It  contains,  in  a 
condensed  and  systematic  form,  the  leading  focts  of  the  ancient  and 
modem  history  of  the  peninsula,  with  an  excellent  epitome  of  its  arts 
and  literature  from  the  earliest  times,  conveyed  in  the  most  agreeable 
style,  and  with  a  true  leeling  for  the  country  and  its  people. 

Air.  Whiteside's  Itaty  contains  a  great  deal  of  valuable  information 
on  the  present  condition  of  the  country  and  the  people,  conveyed  in 
that  eloquent  language  which  has  ^ven  hini  European  fume;  and 
his  translation  of  (Nina's  recent  work  on  the  antiquities  of  Route, 
publieheil  under  the  title  of  the  VicUsiiiuies  of  Ike  Eternal  CUt/,  is  fiill  of 
interest  to  the  archeeologist. 
■       In  Etruscan  antiquities,  Mrs.  Hamilton  Gray's  Sepulchres  of  Etrtiria 


nrx&ODrdTiON.^  Chronological  Tables* 


XXIX 


had  the  merit  of  first  making  the  English  public  acquainted  with  the 
tombs  and  mysteries  of  Etruria ;  but  further  and  more  systematic  in- 
vestigations have  disclosed  monuments  and  developed  views  of  ancient 
art  which  were  unknown  or  misunderstood  when  her  book  was  written. 

Mr,  Dennis  has  supplied  the  deficiencies  of  Mrs.  Gray's  work  by  his 
CiHei  and  Cemeteries  of  Etruria,  a  work  distinguished  alike  by  the  learn- 
ing of  the  scholar,  and  by  the  true  feeling  of  the  antiquary.  So  far  as 
our  knowledge  at  present  extends,  it  may  be  said  to  exnaust  the  subject, 
and  to  give  the  traveller  the  most  complete  view  of  the  history,  the 
religion,  and  the  domestic  manners  of  the  Etruscans. 

In  art,  Kuglet's  Handbook  of  Painting,  edited  by  Mr.  Eastlake,  whose 
notes  give  great  value  to  the  work,  is  the  most  convenient  manual 
to  which  the  traveller  can  be  referred.  The  author's  criticisms  are  some- 
times severe ;  but  they  contain  a  great  deal  of  information  which  cannot 
fail  to  interest  the  student. 

In  general  criticism,  Forsyth^ s  Italy  still  leaves  all  others  in  the  shade. 
For  acuteness  of  judgment  and  clearness  of  argument  we  know  no  work 
which  has  greater  value,  or  to  which  the  traveller  will  recur  with 
80  much  pleasiu'e.  John  BeWt  Italy,  filled  with  judicious  criticism  on 
Sculpture  and  painting,  is  interesting  as  the  work  of  one  of  the  first 
anatomists  of  Great  Britain.  Nothing  can  be  more  instructive  than 
his  exposition  of  the  characteristics  of  the  antique  statues :  the  scientific 
details,  on  which  he  is  so  high  an  authority,  are  controlled  by  the 
finest  taste. 

In   architectiu*ey   Mr.  Gtally  Knight's   Ecclesiastical  Architecture  of 
Italy  will  supply  the  traveller  with  a  series  of  lithographic  views  by 
English  and  Italian  artists,  which  will  be  the  best  illustrations  of  the 
Hand-Books  in  which  their  subjects  are  described.  . 

The  Italian  and  English  Dictionary,  by  F.  C.  Meadows,  is  an  excel- 
lent pocket  dictionary  for  travellers. 

19.   CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLES. 


Roman  Kikos,  b.  c.  753-510. 

B.C. 

753-714  Romulus. 

715-673  Nuroa  Pompilius. 

673-641  Tullus  Hostilius. 

641-616  Ancus  Martius. 

616-578  Tarquinius  Priscus. 

578-534  Servius  TuUius. 

534-510  Tarquinius  Superbus. 

Roman  Repubuc,  b.  c.  510-30. 

1st  Period — From  the  Expulsion  of 
Tarquin  to  the  Dictatorship  of 
Sylla,  a.  c.  510-82. 

2iid  Period — Sylla  to  Augustus,  b.  c. 
81-30. 


Roman  Empire,  b.  c.  30-a.  d.  476. 

1.   Heathen  Emperors, 

B  c.  A.  D. 

SO-  14  Augustus. 

A.  D. 

14-  37  Tiberius. 

38-  41  Caligula. 

41-  54  Claudius. 

54-  68  Nero. 

68-  69  Galba. 
69  Otho. 

69-  70  Vitellius. 

70-  79  Vespasian. 
79-  81   Titus. 
81-  96  Domitian. 

a  3 


iNTKODtJCTiON. —  Chronologierd  Tables. 


Aurvlius     AnCo- 


1  Septimius  SvTcriu. 
7   Cannslla. 

MaorinuH. 

2  HEliogabalua. 

S  Alexander  Sevenis. 


MaiiiDus  BalbinuE. 
Gordian  III. 
Philippua  the  Arab, 


Calpur 
Aareolus,  Oden 
Q  CUudius     II„ 
Gulhicu& 


i  Prabus. 

t  Cania(CBiini 

ran). 
i  Diocletian. 

96-305  MBiimian. 


Chlor 


2.   Chrisli 

5-397   Constaatiue      the       Great 

(Maiiminus  II.,  Maien- 

tius,    Msiimianus,    &c.> 

traitBTera  the  seat  of  go- 

nople,*.D.390. 
P87-361   Constanline    II.,    Constan- 


emperorB,  (Formal  Di» 
sionofthe  Empire  into  It 
Emteta  and  Wegtern.) 

3.    Wattm  Empire,  to  id  Fall. 

ST-3T5  Valentinian  I.  and  Cratian. 

75-3B3  OntUn  and  Valentinian  J  I. 

383-39.^  Valentinian  II. 

39S-423  HDDoriu^ 

■12-4-42S  Johannes. 

■JS5-455  Valentinian  III. 

455  IVIaiinius, 

455-456  AvituB. 

45T-4G1  M^orianuB. 

4gl^e5  Liliius  SeveruB. 

4G7-472  ProcopiiiB  Anthemius. 

—  Oljrbrius. 

473-474  GlyoeriuB. 

474-475  Julius  Nepos, 

475  Romulus  Auguslulus. 

476  Italy  seized  l)j  Odoater, 

.   Eatlen  Empire  lo  Nieephonis. 
i.D.  367-800. 
!    367-ST8  Valens. 

378-395   Thcodosius   Ihe  Great  and 
Arcadius,  Trom  A.n.  383, 

395-4CS   Arcadius. 
408-4.'>0  Theodosius  II. 
'    450-457  Pulcheiia  and  MarciSD. 


491-518   Anastasiui  1. 
518-537  Justinua  I. 
S27-5G5  Justinian. 

[BelisaiiuK,      Narses,      and 
Ijinginus,  Exarch  of  Ba- 

565-578  Juslious  IT. 

579-583  TiberiuB  II. 

582-603  Maurice  the  CappadocUo. 

603-610  Pbocas. 

616^41   Heracliug. 


1 


INTRODUCTION.—  Chronological  Tables. 


A.1>. 

685-711  Justinian  II. 
711-713  Bardanes  Philippicus. 
713-716  Anastasius  11. 
716-718  Theodosius  III. 
718-741   Leo  III.  the  Isaurian. 
741-775  Constantine  V.  Copronimus. 
775-780  Leo  IV. 
780-792  Constantine  VI. 
792-802  Irene. 

802       Nicephorus. 

802  The  Popes  separate  them- 
selves from  the  Eastern 
Emperors  about  this  time. 

East  Gothic  Kings  of  Italy. 
A.  D.  489-n554. 

489-526  Theodoric 

526-534  Athalaric 

534-536  Amalasontha     and     llieo- 

datus. 
536-540  Vitiges. 
540-541   HUdebald. 
541-552  Totila. 
55^55A  Teja. 

Lombard  Kings  op  Italy. 
A.  D.  568-769. 

568  Alboio. 
573  Clephis. 
582  Authar. 
591  Agilulf. 
615  Adelwald. 
636  Rothar. 

652  Rodwald. 

653  Aribert  I. 

661  Pertharit  and  Godibert. 

662  Grimoald. 
671  Pertharit. 
686  Cunibert. 

700  Leutbert. 

701  Ilagimbert  and  Aribert  II. 
712  Luitprand. 

736  Ilprand. 

744  Ratchis. 

749  Astolphua. 

757  Desiderius  Duke  of  Istria. 

769  Adelchis. 

F&AXKUH  Emperors  of  Italy. 
A.  D.  774-887. 

774  Charlemagne  (conquers  Italy). 


A.  D. 

814  Louis  the  D^bonnaire. 

840  Lothaire. 

855  Louis  II. 

876  Charles  the  Bald. 

881   Charles  the  Fat. 

Interregnum,  a.  d.  887-962. 

891   Guy,  Duke  of  Spoleto,  crowned. 
895  Arnulfus,  crowned. 
898  Lambert  of  Spoleto. 
900  Louis  of  Provence. 
916  Berengarius    Duke    of    Friuli, 
crowned. 

German  Emfseors  of  Italy. 

1.   Saxon  Line,  a.d.  962-1002. 

962  Otho  the  Great. 
973  Otho  IL 

983  Otho    IIL   (Theophania  Em- 
press Regent). 
1002  (Henry  II.  of  Bavaria.) 

2.   Franconian  Line,  a.d.  1024*1125. 

1024  Conrad  II.  (the  Salic). 

1039  Henry  IIL 

1056  Henry  IV. 

1106  Henry  V. 

1125  (Lotharius  of  Saxony). 

3.    Suabian  Line,  a.  d.  1138-1250. 

1138  Conrad  IIL 

1 152  Frederic  I.  (Barbarossa). 

1190  Henry  VI. 

1197  Otho  IV.  of  Saxony. 

1212  Frederic  II. 

1250  (Manfred> 

Interregnum^  1250-1273. 

Emperors  of  Germany, 
a.d.  1273-1292. 

1273  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg. 

1292  Adolph  of  Nassau. 

1298  Albert  I.  of  Austria. 

1309  Henry  VII.  of  Luxemburg. 

1313  Louis  of  Bavaria,  and  Frederic 

of  Austria. 

1346  Charles  IV.  of  Luxemburg. 

1378  Wenceslaus. 

1400  Robert  of  Bavaria. 


Xxxit            INTRODUCTION.^— C/ronofo^ica/  Tables.                      ^ 

S52  NnvaiiaH  (AiKipopr),  Rome. 

437  Albert  IL 

353  St.  Lucius,  Lucca. 

440  Frederic  III. 

353   St.  Stephen  I.,  Rome. 

4S3   Maximilian  I. 

357   St.  Sillus  II.,  Athens. 

630  Charles  V. 

239  St.  Dionysius,  Greece. 

B5S  Ferdinand  I. 

^9  St.  Felii  I.,  Rome. 

5B1  Maiimilisn  11. 

275  St   Euiychisnus,  Tuscany. 

576   Rudolph  II. 

283  St.  Caiua,  Salona. 

SI  2   MBrthiss. 

396  Sl.  Mareellinus,  Rome. 

SI9  Ferdinand  II. 

SS7  Ferdinand  III. 

3.    Vider  the   Ctiriitian   Emperon,  to 

SS8  Leopold  T. 

tin   DivUim,   of  the    Empire,  a.o. 

711  CbsrlesVI. 

308-866. 

741   Charles  VII.  of  Ba<aria. 

308  St.  Mareellus,  Rome. 

745  Fnincui    I.   (Grand    Duke    of 

310  SC  Eusebius,  Greece. 

Tusrany). 

310  St.  Melchiadcs,  Africa. 

ieS  Joseph  II. 

314  St.  Sylvester,  Rome. 

790  Leopold  II.  (Grand   Duke  of 

336   St.  Mark  I.,  Rome. 

Tu«aor). 

337  St.  Julius  I.,  Home. 

JW  FraneiB  II.  (Francis  I.  of  Aus- 

352 SL  Lilerius,  Rome. 

tria). 

355  FdU  11.  {Antipope),  Rome. 

S35  Ferdinand    I.      (Emperor    of 

3.    (7mfer    the    Ea,i^    a«d    Wetltm 

84S  Fraocii   Joseph    (Emperor   of 

Empire,  a.  o.  366-480. 

Austria). 

366  St.  Damasus  I.,  Spain. 

Biraon  AKo  PoFEs  or  Uohe. 

385  St  Siricius,  Rome. 

398   St,  Aoastasius  I.,  Rome. 

1.    Undtr  lit  Hmthin  Emperur,, 

401   St.  Innocent  I.,  Alhauo. 

i.n.  S4-308. 

417  St.  Zosimus,  Greece. 

54  St.  Peter. 

41B  St.  Boniface  I.,  Rome. 

6S  St.  Linus  of  Vc.lterra. 

420  EulaUu,  (Antipope),  Rome. 

67  St.  Clement,  Rome. 

422  Sl.  Ceieslin  I.,  Rome. 

77  St  CletuE,  Rome. 

432  St  Sillus  IIL,  Rome. 

84  St.  Anatletus,  Athens. 

440  St.  Leo  I.  (Ihe  Great),  Tuscany. 

36  St  Evariitua,  Bethlehem. 

461   St.  Hilary,  Sardinia. 

IDS  St.  Aleiandel  I.,  Rome. 

468   St.  SimpHcius,  Tibur. 

117  Sl  SiituB  I.,  Rflme. 

4.    Under  tie  Ei->t  Gothic  KingM, 

ISS  St.  Higinus.  Athens. 

i.D.  489-554. 

142  St.  Pius,  Aqniltaa. 

433  St  Felix  n.(calledin.),  Rome. 

153  St.  AniceluB.  Syria. 

492  St  Gelaaius,  Africa. 

B 162  St.  Soler,  Fondi. 

496  St.  Anastasius  II.,  Rome. 

^B'lSS  St,  Victor  T.,  Africa. 

^^■I9B  St  Zephyrinus,  Rome. 

514  St  Hormisdas,  Froidnone. 

^VSIS  St.  Caliitus  I.,  Rome. 

523  John  I.,  Tuscany. 

^"  833  St.  Urban  L,  Home. 

»•          B30  St.  Pontianus,  Rome. 

530  Boni&ee  II.,  Rome. 

235  St.  Anterua,  Greece. 

530  Dioiivrua  (Ailipape),  Rome. 

336  St.  Fabian,  Rome. 

532  John  IL,  RomX^^ 

S50  St.  Cornelius,  Rome. 

535  St  Agapetua  L.  Rome. 

< 

IKTBOBTJOTION. —  Chronological  Tables.         xxziii 


A    O. 

536  St  SyWerius,  Frosinone. 
538  Vigilius,  Rome. 
555  Pelagius  I.,  Rome. 


560 
574 
578 
590 
604 
607 
608 

615 

619 

625 

640 

640 

641 

649 

655 

657 

672 

676 

678 

682 

684 

685 

686 

686 

686 

686 

687 

701 

705 

708 

708 

715 

731 

741 

752 

757 

7C8 

768 

769 

769 


5.  Under  the  Lombard  Kings* 
A.  D.  568-769. 

St.  John  III.,  Rome. 

St  Benedict  I.,  Rome. 

St  Pelagius  II.,  Rome. 

St.  Gregory  I.  (the  Great),  Rome. 

Sabinian,  Bieda. 

Bonifiwe  III.,  Rome. 

Boniface  IV.,  Abruzzi. 

Deusdedit,  Rome. 

Boniface  V.,  Naples. 

Honorius  I.,  Frosinone. 

Sererinus,  Rome. 

John  IV.,  Dalmatia. 

Theodore  I.,  Jerusalem. 

St  Martin  I.,  Todi. 

Eugenius  I.,  Rome. 

Vitalian,  SegnL 

Adeodatus,  Rome. 

Domnus  I.,  Rome. 

Agatho,  Sicily. 

St  Leo  II.,  Sicily. 

Benedict  II.,  Rome. 

John  v.,  Antiooh. 

Peter  {Antipope)^  Rome. 

Theodore  (Antipope),  Rome. 

Conon,  Sicily. 

Paschal  (Antipope). 

Sergius  I.,  Antioch. 

John  VI.,  Greece. 

John  VII.,  Greece. 

Siftinius,  Syria. 

Constantino,  Syria. 

Gregory  II.,  Rome. 

Gregory  III.,  Syria. 

Zacharias,  Greece. 

Stephen  II.  or  III.,  Rome. 

Paul  I.,  Rome. 

Theophilactus  (  Antipope^. 

CoHstantine  II.  (^Antipope^  NepL 

Philip  (Antipope\  Rome. 

Stephen  III.,  Sicily. 


6.    Under  the  Franhish  Emperors, 
A.D.  774-887. 

772  Adrian  I.,  Rome. 
795  Leo  III.,  Rome. 


A.D. 

816  Stephen  IV.,  Rome. 

817  Paschal  I.,  Rome. 
824  Eugenius  II.,  Rome. 

826  Zinzinius  (Antipope},  Rome. 

827  Valentine,  Rome. 
827  Gregory  IV.,  Rome. 
844  Sergius  II.,  Rome. 
847  Leo  IV.,  Rome. 

(Fable  of  Pope  Joan,) 
855  Benedict  IIL,  Rome. 
858  Anastasius  (Antipope),  Rome. 
858  Nicholas  I.,  Rome. 
867  Adrian  II.,  Rome. 
872  John  VIIL,  Rome. 
882  Martin  II.,  Gallese. 

884  Adrian  III.,  Rome. 

7.    Under  the  Interregnum. 
A.D.  887-962. 

885  Stephen  V.,  Rome. 
891   Formosus,  Porto. 

891  Sergius  III.  (Antipope), 

896  Boniface  VI.,  Rome. 

896  Stephen  VI.  or  VII.,  Rome. 

897  Romanus  I.,  Gallese. 

898  Theodore  II.,  Rome. 
898  John  IX.,  Tibur. 
900  Benedict  IV.,  Rome. 
903  Leo  v.,  Ardea. 

903  Christopher,  Rome. 

904  Sergius  III.,  Rome. 
911    Anastasius  IIL,  Rome. 

913  Landonius,  Tibur. 

914  John  X.,  Ravenna. 

928  Leo  VI.,  Rome. 

929  Stephen  VII.,  Rome. 
931  John  XL,  Rome. 
936  Leo  VII.,  Rome. 

939  Stephen  VIIL,  Rome. 
942  Martin  III.,  Rome. 
946  Agapetus  II.,  Rome. 
956  John    XII.    (Prince    Alberic), 
Rome. 

8.  Under  the  German  Emperors  (  Saxon 
line),  A.  D.  962-1002. 

964  Leo  VIIL,  Rome. 

964  Benedict  V.  (Antipope). 

965  John  XIII.,  Narni. 
972  Benedict  VI  ,  Rome. 
974  Domnus  IL,  Romc« 


H  975  £ 


iNTBODnfiTitor.' —  C^roxotoffieal  Tahiti. 


lost 
|:      105( 


BIB  Benedict  VII..  Rome. 

980  Bonl/aet    VIII.  (Frunco«i'),  An. 

9B3  John  XIV.,  IloTne. 
985  John  XV.,  Rome. 
985  John  XVI..  Rome. 
996  Giegory  V.  <B(uno),  Saxon;. 

998  John  XVII.  (Antipope). 

999  Sylvester    II.    (Gerberl),    Au- 

Vnd^  thi  Franconian  line  of  Gtt' 
<  Blaperort,  a.  d.  1034-1195. 
John  XVIT.,  Rome. 
John  XVJII.,  Rome. 
S«rgiu«  IV.,  Ilome. 
Benedict  VIII.,  TuBculum. 
John  XIX.,  Tusculum. 
Benedict  IX.,  Tusculum- 
Sgluetttr  III.  (Antipope). 
Gregory  VI.,  Rome. 
Clement  II.  (Suidger),Ssiotiy. 
iS  DaiDsius  II.,  liaruLa. 
19  Leo  IX.,  LorraiTK-. 
1055  Victor  II.,  Bavaria. 
I05T  Stephen  IX..  Lorraine. 
1058  Btnedicl  X.  (Antipope),  Rome. 
2058  Nicholas  11.  (Gherardiis),  Bur- 
gundy. 
Aleianderll.  (Anselm),  Milan. 
HORorivt  II.  ( CadaloMI  of  Far- 
ma),  AHlipopi. 
•3  St.  Gregory  VIL(Hildebrand), 
Tuscany. 
080    Cleaenl    II.    (GuiUrt   of    Ri- 

cfniux).  Antipope. 
OSS  Victor  IlL,  Beneventum. 
088   UrLau  II-,  Lagery. 

099  Paschal  II.,  Bieda. 

100  Albert  (Antlpopt),  Atella. 

102  T/itadoric  (Antipope),  Rome. 

103  Sslvfslir  lit.  (AnHpnpr),  Home. 
lis   Geloidua  IL  (Ciov.  Gaelano), 

IIB   Grtsory  ril[.(Antipi^'),SpaiR. 

119  Caliitus  II..  Burgundy. 

1B4  llonofiua  JL  (Lambert),    Bo- 


1   Throbald  (■'  , 


a  di  Pteore  "), 


It  lL(Gregory),Romt 


130  Anaelttu)  II.  (Antipope). 


44  Lucius  II.,  Bologna. 

45  EugenLua  III.  (Bernard),  Pisa. 
.50  AnaslBsius  IV.,  Rome. 

54  Adrian  IV.  (Nicholas  Brcak- 
epeaie),St.  Albuu,  England. 

59  Alexander  IIL,  Siena. 

59  Fietor  IV.  (Oirdmal  OctatUot), 
Antipope,  Rome. 

64  Fathal   III.    (Antipope),    Cre- 

G9    Calixtui  IF.  {4»tlpope),  Hun- 
gary. 
78   InnoeenI  III.  (Anlipopt),  Rome. 
SI   Lucius  IIL,  Lucca. 
85   Urban  HI.  (Ctivelli),  Milan. 
:87    Gregory  VIIL,  Beneventum. 

Clement  IIL,  Rome. 
:91    Celeslin  III.,  Rome. 
1S8  Innocent  IIL  (Conti),  Anagni. 
216  HonoriusIII.  (SavcUi),  Rome. 
Gr^ory  IX.  (Conti).  Anagni. 
Celeslin  I  V..  Milan. 
Innocent  1 V.  (  Fjeschi),  Genoa. 
354  Aleuinderl  V.  (Comi),  AnagnL 
UrlMn  IV.,  Troyes 
acmenl  IV.  (Fou. 


luld),  Nar 


1271    Gregory  X.,  Piat 


1 1 .   Rome  under  (An  Fopea. 
Ill  Feriod.      The  Fopet  at  Bona. 
A.U.  1277-1305. 
1277  Nicholas  III. (Otslni),  Rome. 
ISBI   Martin  IV..  Tours. 
1285  Honorius  IV.  (Savelli),  Rome. 
1287  Nicholas  IV.,  Ascoli. 
12^2   Celestin    V.    (Pietro  da  Mor- 


Sulm, 


1Z94  Bonilhce      VIIL       (Goetanl), 

Anagni. 
1303  Benedict       XI.      (Boacuini), 


INTRODUCTION. —  Chronclogical  Tablet*    "     '  zxxv 


9nd  PariofL    The  Papal  See  at  Avig^ 
turn,  JuD,  1 305-1 S78, 

A.D. 

1305  Clement,  V.  (Bertrand),   Bor- 
deaux. 
1316  John  XXII.  (Jacques  d^Euse), 

Querey. 
1334  Niehoku  V,  (Antipope  at  Rome), 

RietL 
1334  Benedict  XIL  (Jacques  Four- 

nier),  Toulouse. 
1342  Clement  VL  (Pierre  Roger), 

Limoges. 
1352  Innocent    VI.  (Etienne   d'Al- 

bert),  Limoges. 
1362  Urban  V.  (Guillaume  de  Gri- 

sac),  G^vaudan. 
1370  Gregory  XI.  (Pierre  Roger), 

Limoges. 

Srd  Period,  Rome,  afier  the  return 
from  Avignon,  a.d.  1378,  to  the 
present  time, 

1378  Urban      VI.      (Bartolommeo 

Prignani),  Naples. 
1387    Clement    Vlh   (Robert  of   Ge- 
neva), Antipope  at  Avignon. 
1389  Boni&ee  IX.    (Pietro   Toma- 

celli),  Naples. 
1394  Benedict  XI I L  {Pedro  de  Luna, 

a     Spaniard),    Antipope    at 

Avignon, 
1404  Innocent   VII.    (Cosmato    de* 

Meliorati),  Sulmona. 
1406  Gregory   XII.    (Angelo   Cor- 

rario),  Venice. 

1409  Alexander  V.(Petrus  Pbylargy- 

rius),  Candia. 

1410  John  XXIIL  (Baldassare  Cos- 

sa),  Naples. 
1417  Martin  V.  (Oddone  Colonna), 

Rome. 
1424  Clement  VI  11.  (a  Spaniard),  An- 
tipope at  Avignon. 
1431  Eugenius  IV.  (Gabriele  Con- 

dolmeri),  Venice. 
1439  FeHx   V.  (Antipope).    [End  of 

the  Western  Schism.] 
1447  Nicholas  V.  (Tommaso  di  Sar- 

zana). 
1455  Calixtus  II L  (Alfonso  Borgia), 

Valencia. 


A.  n. 

1458  Pius  II.  (^neas  Sylvius  Picco- 
lomini),  Pienza. 

1464  Paul  II.  (Pietro Barbo),  Venice, 

1471  Sixtus  IV.  (Francesco  della  Ro- 
vere),  Savona. 

1484  Innocent  VIII;  (Gio-battista 
Cibo),  Genoa. 

1492  Alexander  VI,  (Rodrigo  Bor- 
gia), Spain. 

1503  Pius  III.  (Francesco  Piccolo- 
mini),  Pienza. 

1503  Julius  II.  (Giuliano  della  Ro- 
vere),  Savona. 

1513  Leo  X.  (Giovanni  de'  Medici), 
Florence. 

1522  Adrian  VL  (Adrian  Florent), 

Utrecht. 

1523  Cl«nent  VII.  (Giulio  de*  Me- 

dici), Florence. 
1534  Paul  III.  (Alessandro  Famese), 

Rome. 
1550  Julius   IIL   (Gio.   Maria  del 

Monte),  Arezzo. 
1555  Marcellus  II.  (Marcello  Cer- 

vini),  Fano. 
1555  Paul  IV.  (Gio,  Pietro  Caraflfa), 

Naples. 
1559  Pius  IV.  (Giovan- Angelo  Medi- 

chini),  Milan. 
1566  Pius   V.   (Michele    GhisUeri), 

Alexandria. 
1572  Gregory  XIII.  (Ugo  Buoncom- 

pagni)>  Bologna. 
1585  Sixtus  V.  (Felice  Peretti),  Mon- 

talto. 
1590  Urban  VIL  (Gio-Battista  Cas- 

tagna),  Genoa. 

1590  Gregory  XIV.  (Nicolo  Sfron- 

dati),  Cremona. 

1591  Innocent  IX.  (Gio v.   Antonio 

Facchinetti),  Bologna. 

1592  Clement  VIIL  (Ippolito  Aldo- 

brandini),  Fano. 
1 605  Leo  X  I.  (  Alessandro  Ottaviano 

de*  Medici),  Florence. 
1605  Paul  V.  (Camillo  Borghese), 

Rome. 
1 62 1  Gregory  XV.  (Alessandro  Ludo- 

visi),  Bologna. 
1623  Urban  VI 1 1.   (Matteo  Barbe- 

rini),  Rome. 


J614lDnOMntX.(Oio-Biitti.lflPam- 

IlSOTaurello. 

my.  Rome. 

tlSS  Salingucrra  II. 

ieS5  AieXBiider  VII.  (Fabio  Chigl), 

use  Arao  VI.,  Marquis  d'Bstei  to 

Siena. 

the    ascendancy    of    whose 

B67  Clement  IX,  (Giulio  Rospig- 

house    the    Torrelli    after- 

lioai), Florence. 

wards  gave  way. 

670  Clement  X.  (Gio-Battista  Alti- 

«i),  Eome. 

1215  AmoVII.  d'Esle. 

676  Innocent  XI.  (Benedetto  Odes- 

1264  Obiizo  I  J. 

clchi),  Como. 

1293  a™  VIII. 

689  Aleiuider  VIII.  (Piclro  Otto- 

1308  Foleo  d'Este. 

bom).  Venice. 

1317  ObizoIII. 

691  Innocent  XII.  (Antonio  Pigna- 

1352  Aldrovandino  IIL 

tolli),  Naples. 

1361  Nicooia  II. 

i7W  Clement  XI.   (Gio,   Frfliiceaco 

1383  AlbertOL 

Albani),  Urbino, 

1393  Niccoifi  III. 

781  Innocent  XIII.  (Miehelangelo 

1441  Lionello. 

Cooti),  Rome. 

H50  Burso,  first  Duke. 

7B4  Benedict  XHI.  (Pletro  Fran- 

H71  Ercole  I. 

cesco  Oisini),  Rome. 

1505  Alfonso  I. 

730amnenl  XII.   (Lorenio   Cor- 

1534  Ercolo  II. 

Bini).  Florence. 

1559  Alfonso  11. 

740  Benedict  XIV.  (Prospero  Lam- 

1597  Attached  to  the  Church. 

bertini),  BoI<^na. 

1758  Clement  Xill.   (Carlo  Heiio- 

DuKis  OF  Ukbiho. 

nioo),  Venice, 

1474  Fedetigo  di  Montefeltro. 

1769  Clement  XIV.  (Antonio  Gan- 

gBnelli),St.AngeloinVado. 

1508  Francesco  Maria  della  Itovere. 

J775  Pius  VI.  (Giov.   Angelo  Bras- 

1538  Guid'  Ubaldo  II.  dclU  Kovere, 

chi),  Cesena. 

leOO  Pius  VII.  (Gregono   Barnaba 

Tcre,  BbdicBted  in  1626. 

Chiaramonli),  Cesena. 

18B3  Leo  XII.  (Annibale  della  Gen- 

GSAKB-DUKFS  or  TusCAHV. 

ga),  Spoleto. 

1.  ff„^  of  Medici. 

Castiglione),  Cingoli. 
1831    Gregory   XV(.    (Mauro    Cap- 

1537  Cosmo  I.  (1569.) 

1574  Francesco  I. 

pellari),  Belluoo. 

1587  Ferdinandol. 

1848  PrasIX.(GioTanni  Maria  Maa- 

1609  Cosmo  11. 

tai-Ferrelti),  bom  at  Slni- 

1621  Ferdinando  II. 

gallia.  May  13,  1792;  made 

1670  Cosmo  III. 

cardinal  23  December,  1839, 

1723  Giov.  Gastone. 

created  Pope  Juno  6,  1846. 

2.    Houie  of  Lorraine. 

SieNO&I,      THEN     BIiRqU!5Hi,      AFtHK- 

1737  Francis  (emperor,  1745). 

WABDS  DnKIS  OF  Febeaba. 

1765  I.*opold  11.  (emperor,  1790). 

10S7  Frederic  I. 

1790  Ferdinand  III. 

1118  Guy  Salioguerra. 

1824  Leopold  II. 

HAND-BOOK 


roR 


TRAVELLERS  IN  CENTRAL  ITALY. 


THE  PAPAL  STATES. 


PRELIUINARY   INFORMATION. 

§  1.  Passtorts.— §  2.  Lascja-passare. — §3.  Frontier  and  Custom- Housss. 
.i^§  4.  Movrr. — §  5.  Roads.— §  6.  Railroads— §  7.  Posting.  —  §  8. 
VrrruRun.  ^§  9.  Inns. 

ROUTE& 

To  fhcUitele  reference,  tbe  nomee  are  printed  in  Ualiet  in  tbow  Routes  under  wliich 

tbey  are  Ailly  described. 


ROOTS  PAGE 

1.  Mantua  to  Ferrara        •         .  10 

2.  Modena  to  Ferrara        •         .10 

3.  Padua  to  Ferrara  .         .10 

4.  Ferrara  to  Bologna,  by  Makd" 

herpo        .  •         .  •  25 

5.  Ferrara  to  Bologna,  by  Cento 

and  Pieve  di  Cento    •         .  25 

6.  Modena  to  Bologna         .         .  27 

7.  Bologna  to  Florence      •         •  75 

8.  Florence  to  Fori),  by  the  Apen- 

nines       .         .         .         .77 

9.  Forli  to  Ravenna  •         .  78 

10.  Faenza  to  Ravenna         .         .  79 

1 1 .  Venice  to   Ravenna,  by  the 

Canals  and  Comacchio        .  79 

12.  Bologna  to  Ravenna^  by  Imola 

and  Lugo  .         •         .82 

1 3.  Ravenna  to  Rimini        •  '        103 

14.  Bologna  to  Aneonn,  by  Fortt, 

Riminif    San  Marino,    Pe- 
aaro,  and  Fano  •  103 

Cent,  It. 


ROUTE 

15.  Ancona  to  Foligno,  by  Loreto, 

Macerata,  and  T(^entino  . 

16.  Fano  to  Foligno,  by  the  Stra- 

da  del  Furlo    .  .  • 

17.  Fano  to  Urbino    . 

18.  Urbino  to  San  Giustino  and 

CittcL  di  CoBteUoy  by  the 
new  Mountain  Road 

19.  San  Giustino  to  Borgo  San 

Sepoicro  and  Arezzo 

20.  Cittcl  di  Castello  to  Gubbio  . 

21.  Cittcl  di  Castello  to  Perugia 

22.  Perugia  to  Nami,  by  Todi  . 

23.  MontefiasconetoOrtrtcto,  CV«^ 

della  Pieve,  and  Perugia  , 

24.  Rieti  to  Rome     . 


PAGE 

127 

138 
142 


147 

157 
160 
163 
164 

164 
176 


25.  o.  Leghorn  to  Civita  Fecchia  179 

25.  b.  Civita  Vccchia  to  Rome  .  189 

26.  Florence  to  Rome,  by  Siena  192 

27.  Florence  to  Rome,  by  Arezzo 

and  Perugia    .         .         •  235 


I  the  traveller  ctitCTs  the  Papal  States,  it  is  indi;] 

a  {MUaport  baar  the  vita  either  of  the  Nnneio  residing  in  the  la 

lisited,  DT  of  a  Pupal  Consul.      It  will  save  trouble,  in  the 

liug  through   France  at  the  outset  of  his  lour,  to  obtain  tlie  vina  of  the 

it  Paris  ;  hut  if  circuniBtances  itepiivc  him  of  the  opportunity  uf  ap- 

Jllying  ta  a  Minister,  the  signature  of  the  Consul  in  some  important  town  will 

be  luSicienl.     'Hie  Austrian  viia  is  alto  deair&ble,  not  merely  fbr  llie  Papal 


IB  passport 
ind  in  sca-.port8,  as  Ancona  and 
esidia,  his  BignBtura  is  liLewUe 


States,  hut  Kir  all  parts  of  Italy.  On  ar 
ia  examined  and  countersigned,  as  usual 
Cinia  Veci-hia,  where  a  British  Consul 
necessary. 

On  entering. the  principal  towns  of  the  Papal  States,  with 
the  passport  is  demanded  at  the  gates,  in  order  to  be  signed; 

that  the  passport  may  be  sent  after  Iiim.  A  fee  of  one  or  twopauls  is  required 
fbr  each  fiaa;  aud  in  garrison  towns  this  process  Is  repeated  on  leaving  them. 
.Before  the  trayeller  quits  Rome  on  his  return  lo  England,  ills  desirable 
that  his  passport  be  signed  bv  the  Ministers  of  all  the  Sovaieigns  through 
whose  dominions  it  is  intended  to  passi  those  of  Austria,  TuseaQjr,  Sar- 
dinia, and  France,  should  ou  no  accotmt  he  omitted.  On  leaving  Italy,  it 
must  always  be  borne  in  mind,  that  if  the  travellei  intend  to  proceed  fiom  Mi- 
Ion  through  Geneva  into  France,  his  passport  must  be  signed  by  the  English, 
Sardinian,  and  French  Consuls- General  at  Milan  j  the  latter  eipres^j  stating 

that  it  is  "  Aon  pour  enlrer  dans  !c  Royaume."     InstancEE  have  occurred  where 

Tellers  who  have  neglected  this  formality  have  been  sent  back  from  Moiez, 

i  French  frontier-station  of  the  Jura,  in  order  to  procure  signatures  at 

The  difficulty,  in  recent  cases,  has  been  got  over  by  purchasing  b 

irocisDire  at  Morei;  but  the  aniiuyanoe  of  anj  detention,  pat tioularly 

avelllng  by  diligence,  is  indescribable,  and  no  arrangements  should 

<e  omitted  by  which  its  possible  conaeq nances  may  be  avnided. 


Pap.  St}        2.LASCIA-PASSAaE-i-3.FRONTIER,&C. 4<.M0NEY.:S 

§  2.  Lasoia-yassark. 

Persons  travelling  in  their  own  carriage  should  write  beforehand  to  their 
eorrespondent,  or  banker  at  Rome,  or  to  the  British  Consul,  requesting  that 
a  laseia-passare  roaj  be  forwarded  to  the  frontier,  and  another  left  at  the  gates 
of  Rome^  in  order  to  avoid  the  formalities  of  the  eustom-house.  The  lascia* 
passare  is  never  granted  to  persons  travelling  in  public  carriages. 

§  3.  Frontier  and  Custom- Ho  uses. 

The  Papal  frontier-stations  and  custom-houses  (Dogana)  are  paarked  by  th# 
arms  of  the  reigning  PontifT,  surmounted  by  the  triple  crown  and  crossed  keysi 

The  custom-house  visitation  is  less  severe  than  in  many  other  States  of 
Italy,  and  a  timely  fef  will  save  the  traveller  much  inconvenience,  and  make 
the  searcher  anxious  to  facilitate  the  process.  It  is  by  far  the  best  plan  to  prof 
pitiate  the  officer  by  administering  this  fee  at  once;  for  the  saving  of  time  an4 
trouble  is  amply  sufficient  to  compensate  the  outlay  of  two  or  three  paul& 
Books  are  the  especial  object  of  inquiry ;  but  on  the  whole,  they  are  lest 
rigidly  examined  in  these  States,  than  in  the  Lombardo- Venetian  Kingdom,  [ 

■    ■         ...  ■  .  -   "  i 

§  4.  — Money.  ! 

Letters  of  Credit,  o^  the  notes  of  Herries,  or  Coutts,  are  usually  carried  by 
travellers ;  the  latter  are,  in  many  respects,  the  most  desirable.  Some  traveU 
lers  have  taken  napoleons  from  Paris,  and  have  gained,  by  the  exchange  in 
Italy ;  but  this  does  not  apply  to  English  sovereigns,  as  the  Italians,  particu- 
larly in  the  smaller  towns,  have  not  learned  to  distinguish  between  the  English 
and  French  coinage.  Letters  of  credit  are  useful  iii  the  large  capitals  in 
securing  the  good  offices  of  the  banker. 

The  Roman  coinage  was  arranged  by  the  late  Pope,  Gregory  XVI.  in 
1835,  entirely  on  the  decimal  system.  Accounts  are  kept  in  bajocchi  of 
5  qxiattrini  each ;  in  pauls,  of  10  bajocchi ;  and  in  scudi,  of  10  pauls.  Th^ 
principal  coins  in  use  are  —  the  new  gold  piece,  of  5  scudi ;  the  silver  scudo» 
of  10  pauls ;  the  paul ;  and  the  bajoccho.  Some  of  the  old  gold  coins,  how. 
ever,  are  still  current,  and  are,  therefore,  included  in  the  following  Tabular 
Statement  of  the  coinage,  giving  the  intrinsic  value  in  English  according 
to  the  weighi  of  gold  and  silver,  and  the  legal  value  in  the  other  Italian 
moneys.  The  minute  fractions,  which  would  only  aifect  the  calculation  of 
conriderable  sums,  are  not  given.  It  is  necessary  to  |)remise  that  the  Roman 
money,  in  comparison  with  that  of  Tuscany,  suffers  a  decrease  of  5  per  cent., 
called  the  tara ;  hence  the  Tuscan  francesconc,  which  is  also  a  piece  of  10 
pauls,  is  equal  to  10|  Roman  pauls,  or  4«.  5^.  English ;  the  Tuscan  paul  is 
consequently  SJJdL  English.  For  the  same  rc&wn,  95  Tuscan  lire  are  equal 
to  15  Roman  scudi. 

By  a  decree  issued  in  March  1848,  it  was  ordered  that  the  5 -franc  piece  of 
silver  coinage,  and  the  napoleon  or  20-franc  piece  of  gold  coinage,  current 
in  the  Republic  of  Franco,  the  Kingdom  of  Sardinia,  and  the  Grand  Duchy 
of  Parma,  shall  circulate  in  the  States  of  the  Church  —  the  first  at  the 
rate  of  93  baj.,  and  the  second  at  the  rate  of  S  scudi  72  baj.,  and  their  mul- 
tiples in  gold  in  the  sa.ne  ratio.  BefDre  this  decree  the  napoleon  was 
generally  worth  37  pauls.  Tlie  Spanish  dollar  is  generally  worth  10  pauls; 
the  Tuscan  francescone  \0\  pauls;  the  Neapolitan  piastre  9  pauls  4  baj.; 

B  2 


4.   MONEY.  [|E 

>lilsn  ilucat  7  pauls  9  baj.;  llie  Carliiia  7  h^.  9  den, ;  th> 
iL  or  S  denmi;  100  Neapolitan  ducats  arc.  Iherefore,  79 
be  exchange  with  England  ii  aaid  to  be  at  pur  when  thi 
calculated  at  45  paula ;  but  its  real  value  ma;  be  more  c 

siaiea  ai  netireen  4G  and  47  pauls.    In  Bologna,  the  Roioan  scudo   is 

into  J  lire,  and  the  bajocehc 


*4  quattrii 
Rudi.     T 


.o    Flor .... 

gcneially  kept  in  | 


auls. 


The 


'.  pound 

divided 
1  fr.  07 
Papal 


GOLD. 

Ki!cch1l]i>(>cquin)— W      „ 
The  nB>f  piece  of 

SKUdl         .         .=S0      „ 
Ditto  of  SJ«ucl!.—S5      ., 

.llBj, 

„^ 

?s3; 

^^ 

l"S. 

"rJS" 

■III 
S3 

llSg 

?*"l  I 

I: 

30    87 

SILVER. 

Thoicutfo(RDi>nn 
^doll^r)  [1435]     ,=10      . 

STp^Z.  ":   ;ii  ; 

Fa£l<.(|>.u1).       .-        '. 
Omuotlpaul)    .= 

10  W 

1   I 

i1 

0  OCT 

vll 

ii 

ii 

COPPER. 

SS™"":"    ; 

l'2 

about  1 

0    0    D 

0  1  a 

0      6 

■  It  may  be  useFtil  to  know  that  Roman  scudi  (with  the  lara)  reduetd  to  ba- 
^^chi  and  divided  by  15  became  Tusvan  lire,  suldi,  and  denari  (  and  that 
on  the  same  principle,  Tuscan  lira,  &c.,  multiplied  by  15,  give  Roman  ba- 
jocchi.  In  making  this  calculation,  it  must  be  remembered  Chat  the  Tuscan 
lira  contains  So  soldi,  and  eaeb  soldo  IS  denari.  It  is  also  n^cesaaty  to^bear 
in  mbd  Ibat  the  lara,  as  already  remarked,  makes  a  diSereneo  of  5  per  ceot. 
in  taiour  of  Tuscan  money;  and  that,  consequently,  the  Roman  scudo  counts 
nnly  as  95  bajucchi,  while  the  fiancescone  counts  as  100.  Thus,  5  Roman 
acudi,  with  the  tara  of  5  per  cent.,  are  equal  to  475  bajocchi ;  these,  divided 
by  15,  give  a  product  of  SI. 10  lire;  multiplying  the  10  by  SO  (for  soldi),  and 
dividing  again  by  15,  we  have  13,  S  soldi;  and  multiplying  the  5  by  12  (for 
denari),  and  dividing  by  15,  we  have  4  deaaii  —  3 1 . 1 S,  4.  'ilie  francescone 
oflDO  pauls,  by  the  same  process,  will  |^vc  a  product  of  S3.G.8. 

In  the  preceding  table,  the  agio  on  gold  gives  a  greater  value  to  the  gold 
piece  of  5  scudi  than  the  actual  value  of  5  silver  scudi  by  this  calculation. 

nieroduelionofai  lire,  13  soldi,  4  denari,  to  b^occhi,  by  multiplying  by 
15,  dividing  the  denari  by  IS,  and  the  soldi  by  SO,  is  equally  simpli^  and  the 
result,  of  course,  is  475  b^occhi. 

Another  useful  process  is  that  for  the  reduction  of  Roman  scudi  into  Italian 
lire  and  centiiimi  t  the  scudi  must  be  multiplied  by  5S^26,  from  the  product 
the  two  last  figures  on  the  right  hand  must  be  struck  olT  (unless  when  they 
smouDt  to  50  or  upwards,  ivben  they  count  as  1};  fi)r  eiample,  5  Roman 

fc         ■ : i 


Pcfoi  Suties.2  5«  roads.  —6.  railroads.  $ 

wudi  multiplied  by  53726,  give  2686  30 ;  or,  26  Italian  lire,  86  centesimi. 
It  is  obvious  that  these  are  again* reduced  into  scudi  by  adding  the  two 
ciphers,  and  dividing  by  53726,  which  will  give  as  the  result  5  scu£. 


§  5.  —  Roads. 

The  'roads  in  the  Papal  States  have  undergone  remarkable  improvement  in 
recent  years ;  although  still  inferior  to  those  of  Tuscany,  they  are  generally 
well  kept.  The  exceptions  are  chiefly  in  those  parts  where  the  ancient  pave- 
ment has  been  imperfectly  restored,  and  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
Rome,  where  the  roads  are  worse  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  States.  The 
great  routes  also  are  frequently  inferior  to  the  provincial  roads.  It  is  however 
to  he  observed,  that  in  numerous  districts^  as  in  the  Campagna  of  Rome,  and 
in  Romagna,  the  necessary  materials  for  the  maintenance  of  good  roads  are 
entirely  wanting,  and  the  nature  of  the  country  is  unsuitable  to  their  con* 
struction. 

The  roads  still  retain  their  ancient  subdivision  into  three  classes :  the 
consular,  provincial,  and  communal.  They  are  under  the  direction  of  a 
special  bourd  app<Hnted  by  government,  aided  by  a  council  of  engineers,  and 
fixed  imposts  are  levied  for  their  construction  and  repair.  The  consular  roads 
are  maintained  by  the  levy  of  a  tenth  of  the  praedial  impost ;  the  provincial 
by  a  variable  tax  upon  the  provinces ;  and  the  communal  by  a  similar  tax  on 
the  municipalities.  The  expenses  of  the  roads  form  a  considerable  item  in 
the  accounts  of  the  apostolic  Camera,  and  the  cost  of  repairing  bridges^ 
fiirming  new  roads,  and  maintaining  the  old  ones,  has  generally  in  late  years 
exceeded  the  tax.  The  Papal  government  indeed  deserves  great  credit  for  the 
liberality  with  which  improvements  in  this  respect  have  been  promoted ;  and 
there  are  few  countries  m  which  the  establishment  of  new  lines  of  commu- 
nication has  been  more  encouraged,  in  proportion  to  the  limited  means  at  its 
cUsposal.  The  new  road  over  the  Apennines,  from  Urbino  to  Borgo  San 
Sepolcro,  constructed  at  the  joint  expense  of  the  Papal  and  Tuscan  Govern- 
ments, would  do  credit  to  any  nation  in  Europe ;  and  the  English  system  is 
DOW  generally  followed. 


§  6.—  Railboads. 

It  is  hoped  that  in  a  few  years  the  principal  towns  of  Southern  Italy  will 
be  brought  into  easy  communication  by  means  of  railroads.  In  1847,  the 
long  pending  question  of  the  lines  from  Rome  to  the  Neapolitan  frontier,  and 
from  Rome  to  Ancona  and  Bologna,  was  announced  as  definitively  settled. 
The  Company  Altieri  and  Rosetti,  obtained  in  that  year  the  privilege  of 
that  from  Rome  to  Ceprano  (frontier  of  Naples),  and  the  Conti  and  Altieri 
Company  that  from  Rome  to  Bologna.  The  two  companies  agreed  to  give 
government  two  ^bonds,  one  for  the  preparatory  works,  the  other  for  the 
security  of  the  works;  the  first  of  92,000  scudi  (19,700/.),  and  the  second  of 
1,10(V)00  scudi  (235,000/L).  It  is  however  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that 
the  revolutionary  outbreak  put  a  stop  to  these  arrangements ;  but  the  Princes 
Conti  and  Altieri  have  recently  induced  two  bankers  in  London  and  Paris 
to  enter  into  the  speculation,  and  to  advance  thirty  millions  of  scudi 
(6,406,850<L),  wherewith  to  commence  the  line  from  Bologna  to  Rome, 
Ufough  the  Romagna  and  Ancona. 

B  3 


Tbe  Post  Ilousca  in  the  Papal  States  arc  distinguished  by  the  iini!i 
_jf  the  reign  in  K  Pontiff,  the  Cardinal  Chamberlain,  and  the  Director- General 
df  Posts,  'liie  teniix  b  done  by  ountrnGl,  subject  to  Ibc  general  control 
rf  Govemroent,  Fiied  charges  are  triiuie  for  posting,  postilions,  &c.  The 
postmoiters  muit  be  approved  by  Government,  and  be  furnishEil  with-  a 
lioencv  registered  In  tbe  genera]  post  oQice  at  Rome.  There  are  nb  turn- 
pikes, and  ihe  general  arrangennetili!  are  very  nearly  like  those  of  Fiance. 

The  postinuten  are  supplied  witli  a  printed  book  of  Instructions,  in  which 
all  particulars  of  tli«r  duties  are  notei  The  uoost  important  items,  so  &r 
as  the  convenience  of  tbe  traieller  is  concerned,  are  tbe  following:  —  Horses 
and  postilions  are  to  be  always  ready  fur  service;  but  the  postniaster  Is 
bound  only  lo  keep  the  precise  number  uf  each  specified  in  bis  agreement,  or 
by  the  order  of  the  direcCoi-general.  One  open  and  two  coveted  carriages  sie 
to  be  kepi  fur  travellers  who  require  them.  Poetmnsterv  arc  fbrbidden  to 
supply  lioraes  without  a  written  licence  from  the  authorities  of  the  place  of 
departure,  or  a  passport  from  the  secretary  of  state.  Fostniastecs  arc  not  al- 
lowed to  supply  horses  to  travoUeis,  unless  they  have  a  sufficient  niitnbcr  re- 
maiiiiog  to  fulfil  the  duties  of  the  post ;  oorare  they  allowed  to  send  horses  for- 
vard  la  change  on  the  road,  nor  to  traiufcr  horses  frum  one  station  to  another. 
Tliey  ate  bound  to  keep  two  postilions  ready  for  service  night  and  day,  and 
to  have  written  over  the  principal  door  of  the  post-bouse  the  length  of  the 
post,  pi'ioc  of  the  courw,  and  a  slatement  of  the  right  of  a  tliird  or  fourth 
horse.  Tlie  third  or  fourth  horse  can  only  he  cuGirced  where  the  tarifl" 
specially  allows  it.  They  are  bound  to  keep  a  book,  with  pages  nnmlicred 
and  signed  by  the  director-general  or  his  deputy,  in  which  a  regular  entry  of, 
the  daily  journeys  may  be  kept,  and  travellers  may  enter  any  complaint 
against  postilions.  Horses  returning  after  the  course  is  completed  are  not  to 
be  attached  to  any  CEUtiage.  Travellers  by  post  cannot  relinquish  this  mode 
of  travelling  in  less  than  three  dava  from  the  time  of  departure,  nor  change 
their  carriage,  without  permission  from  the  secretary  uf  state  or  the  provincial 
authorities.  Travellers  who  order  post-horses,  and  afterwards  alter  their  plans, 
are  bound  to  pay  half  a  post,  if  they  come  to  their  lodgings  before  they  arc 
countermanded.  When  there  are  no  horses,  postnnaBtera  are  iMund  to  give 
travellers  a  declaration  in  writingtothateHecttio/nfe)  ;  after  which  they  may 
provide  IheraseWcs  with  horses  elsewhere,  but  oYily  to  carry  them  to  the  neit 
post ;  and  ir  there  are  no  horses  at  that  post,  then  the  postilions  are  bound 
to  go  on  without  stopping  to  the  third  post,  where  they  may  Mop  an  hour  to, 
bait :  this  rule  applies  to  all  tlie  successive  posts,  until  regular  posl-horses 
nre  procured.  The  lime  allowed  for  the  passage  of  government  messengers 
&om  one  post  to  another  is  two  hours  ;  for  ordinary  or  extraordinary  estafettes, 
carrying  despatches  on  horseback,  one  hour  and  a  hai£  Postmasters  and, 
postilions  are  forbidden  (o  demand  more  than  the  price  allowed  by  the  tariff. 

In  1835,  Cardinal  Gamberini,  then  Secretary  of  slate,  issued  a  general  no-' 
tilication  modifying  the  regnlations  in  force  as  to  carriages,  so  as  to  adapt  them 
tQ  the  form  and  character  of  (hose  now  in  use.  By  this  document  three  classes 
were  recognlied,  and  tlie  following  regulations  adopted  in  regard  to  each  :  — ' 

1.  For  cabriolets  or  coveted  carriages  with  one  seat,  whatever  their  number 
of  wlicels,  earryiug  a  small  trunk  and  travelling  bag  (or  a  small  imperial  only},' 
two  horses,  if  travellers  be  not  more  than  three;  three  horses,  if  there  are' 
(bur  passengers,  with  power  to  charge  for  four  hordes,  which  the  travellers 
may  have  attached  to  the  carriage  on  paying  for  a  second  poMilion. 


^Vpo/.  Stoies.2  . :  7.  POSTiNp;  7 

.8.  For  covered  carriages,  with  two  seats  and  leather  curtains  by  the  side» 
like  the.  eommon  vetturiao,.and  for  regukr  eal^hes  having  only  one  seat, 
both  descriptions  carrying  a  trunk,  a  trarelling  bag,  and  a  smalLportnianteau, 
three  horses,  if  there  be  two  or  three  persons ;  if  four  persons,.tben  a  fourth 
horse  is  charged,  which  the  travellers  may  have  as  before,  on.  paying  a  second 
postillion.  If  these  carriages  co^itain  five  or  six  persons,  they  are  considered 
cmrriages  of  the  third  class; 

3.  For  Berlines  and  carriages  of  four  seats,  with  an  imperial,  a  trunk," 
tniTelling  bag,  Ac,  four  horses,  if  carrying  two  or  three  persons ;  if  four, 
then  a  fifth  horse  is  charged  ;  if  five  or  six  persons,  six  horses ;  if  seven,  the 
number  of  horses  is  the  same,  but  seven  are  charged. 

Where  carriages  contain  a  greater  number  than  is  mentioned  above  under 
each  classy  no  greater  number  of  horses  is  required,  but  a  charge  of  four  pauls 
per  poet  is  fixed  for  each  person  above  the  number.  A  child  under  seven- 
years  is  not  reckoned,  but  two  of  that  age  are  counted  as  one  person. 

When  the  quantity  of  luggage  is  evidently  greater  than  the  usual  weight, 
•  tax  of  three  pauls  per  post  is  allowed  to  be  imposed.  •  Travellers  may  ob<^ 
tain,  on  starting,  a  boUetta  di  viaggio,  specifying  in  separate  columns  all  par- 
ticulars relating  to  the  number  of  horses,  baggage,  charges,  &c.,  exclusive  of 
postilions  and  ostlers.  In  this  case  one  is  givc'u  to  the  traveller,  the  other  to 
the  poatilioii»  who  i&/bonnd  to.  pass  it  to  the  next,  imtil  it  is  finally  lodged  in 
the  post-offioe  of  tba  town  at  which  the  journey  ends.  All  complaints  may< 
be  noted  on  tfaia'doeument,  as  well  as.  any  expression  of  Un  servito  on  the 
pert  e£  the  postilions.  .  Tfavdlcrs  should  obtain  this  boHetta  at  the.  post  office 
oC  the  firtt  pott  town ; '.it  will  protect  them  from  imposition,  and  costs  oidyf 
ene  peuL 

In  ease  of  dispute  between  travellers,  and  postmaster  or  postilions^  it  ie 
fteivided  by  the  general  order  of  the  Cardinal  Secretary,  that  an  appeal  .be 
■■de  to  the  local  director  {dirtttor*  haale),  who  has  power  to  put  both  postr 
master  and  his  men  under,  arrest  for  three  days,  or  to  suspend  them  for  ten 
days,  reporting,  the  fiust  to  the  director-general  in  Rome,  to  whom  it  belongt' 
to  take  ulterior  measures.  Ip  places  where  the  post-house  is  an  inn,  trat 
v^lers  are  sometimes  told  that  there  are  no  horses  in  order  to  induce  th&at 
to  stop.  If  there  be  reason  to  suspect  that  this  statement  is  made  from  in<* 
teieeted  motives,  application  should  at  once  be  made  to  the  local  director.; 
There  ate  few'plaees  of  any  note  in  which  a  director  is  not  to  be  found :  he 
ie  generally  a  person  of  rank  and  responsibility,  and  we  know  of  no  instancy 
in  which  he  has  not  met  the  complaints  of  travellers  with  promptitude  and 
courtesy.  ^ 

The  fiillowing  is  the  Tariff  for  Ordinarv  Posts,  issued  by  Cardinal  Facca, 
1816:-< 

Each  horse 5  pauls  per  post. 

Postillion,  each 3^  ditto  ditto 

Stable-boy,  for  every  pair    . .         .         .         •  |  ditto  ditto 

Saddle  horse,  or  courier        .         •         ...  4    ditto  ditto 

Two-wheel  carriage,  furnished  by  postmaster  3    ditto  ditto 

A  carriage  with  four  places  inside,  and  four  l  ^    ditto  ditto 
wheels,  also  furnished  by  postmaster     .    J                                            / 

The  postilion's  buonanumo,  although  fixed  by  the  preceding  tariff  at  S^ 
paula,  is  generally  5^  or  6  pauls,  or  more,  according  to  good  conduct.  A 
eeperate  postilion  is  required  for  each  pair  of  horses.  The  following  will) 
thereferf,  be  the  expanse  of  posting,  giving  each  postilion  5^  pauls  per  post  :^* 

B  4 


8.  VETTUBINI. 


.  .  Se  „  ...  36-6  „  .  .  .  £G  „ 
le  length  of  the  ordiiwry  Roman  post  ia  8  miles,  equal  lo  7  miles  712 
I  English  j  but  trnvellen  who  are  acquainted  villi  Italian  roads  know 
that  the  post  varies  conaidernbl;  according  to  locality,  and  lo  the  clia- 
ir  of  the  counlry.  The  Icaglh  of  the  nomsD  tuile  is  IiCJg  English 
rds,  about  one-lwelflh  less  than  an  English  mile.  The  tcnglh  of  the 
ucan  mile  is  I,Sq8  English  jardsj  of  the  Neapolitan  mile  ■J.iJG  yardsj 
of  tlie  Piedmontese  mile  2,33G  yards.  Tlie  Italian  mile  of  60  to  the  degree 
U  2,025-1  Ei^lish  yards.  The  Roman  foot  is  11-72  English  inches;  the 
palm  is  J  of  the  (bol,  or  nearly  8J  inches.  The  caone  ia  78-43  inches.  ITie 
rubbio  is  rather  more  than  3  acres  and  3  roods,  Tlie  raoggio  U  j  of  an 
■ere.      The  lUman  pound  is  1091  ounces  Troy. 

§  B VcrruaiNi. 

Fenoiis  who  da  not  travel  in  their  own  carriage  must,  in  a  great  measure, 
be  dependent  on  the  vctturina :   indeed  there  arc  many  parts  where  it  is  T 

caniagB  Hitli  vetturino  liorses  will  find  thai  although  il  may  cost  somewhat 
^^h**  thou  the  post,  the  saving  icnrcelj  compensates  fiir  the  loss  of  time.      A. 
^^uplicate  agreement  should  be  drawn  up  before  starting,  and  atlested  by 
^Hne  peiion  in  authority.    Before  makbg  the  agreement,  when  the  exclusive 
^Hk  of  the  carriage  is  rnjuired,  it  is  necessary  to  see  both  carriages  and  horses 
^^B  order  to  ascertain  that  Ihej  are  what  they  ought  to  be,  and  take  such  note 
^^f  them  as  to  be  able  to  declare  that  any  others  which  may  be  substituted  at 
the  moment  of  starting  are  not  those  a};teed  for:  it  is  also  desirable  to  specify 
in  the  agreement  that  the  Journey  is  lo  be  performed  with  the  particular 
carriage  and  horses  already  seen  and  approved.     The  vetturino  generally  un- 
dertakes to  provide  breakfast,  dinner,  supper,  and  bed  ;  but  the  experienced 
trareller  knows  well  that  he  is  worse  oSTand  pays  deuer  by  this  arrangemenl; 
than  he  Joes  when  he  provides  for  himself  at  the  jnnn.    The  charge  lor  one 
person  varies,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  more  than  two  Kudi  a-day:  fron^ 
Bologna  to  Rome,  a  Journey  occupying  seven  or  eight  days,  the  charge  for 
one  person   is  from  nine  (0  ten  scudi  i  from  Bologna  lo  Florence  three  ta 
four  scudi ;  and  from  Florence  to  Rome  seven  to  ten  scudi,  varying  from 
five  to  six  days.     When  a  single   traveller  or  a  party  of  friends  engage  a, 
vetturino  for  their  own  use,  the  agreement  should  expressly  stipulate  that  no 
other  person  is  to  be  taken  up  on  any  pretence  whatever  ;  otherwise  occasions 
will  aoon  be  found  fiir  forcing  other  persons  into  the  carriage.     Ten  scudi  a 
day  should  cuvcr  all  cipenEes  of  a  private  lellutino  carriaKc  and  two  or  three 
horsey  including  the  fee  to  the  driver  and  cAevaux  di  renjbri,  when  necea- 
(Bry.     All  tolls  should  be  made  payable  by  the  vetturino.      It  oAen  happens 
that  the  lelturino  sells  his  engagements,  in  which  case  a  traveller  may  be 
exposed  lo  two  or  three  changes  of  vehicle  :  this  should  also  be  specifi^  in 
the  agreement,  as  well  as  any  particular  stages  into  which  he  may  wish  to 
diiide  Ihe  Journey.      The  buonamana  or  mancia,  i.  e.    fee  to  the  driver,  is 
usually   I  scudo  a-day.  If  "  ben  serrilo,"  or  more  if  the  Journey  be  a  short 

tliiJanal  on  good  behaviour.      When  a  vetturino  is  required  to  stop  on  tlie 


Papal  l^aiesJ\  9.  iNNSr  9 

load  for  the  eonTenience  of  travellers,  he  expects  them  to  pay  one  or  two 
scudi  a  night  for  each  horse's  expenses.  The  sum  to  be  paid  in  this  case 
diould  be  stated  in  the  agreement ;  one  scudo  per  horse  nightly  is  enough. 
la  this  respect,  posting  has  an  advantage,  as  it  allows  travellers  to  stop  when 
they  please  and  visit  places  on  the  road,  without  this  additional  cost. 

§  9.—- Inks. 

These  are  given  in  detul  under  the  descriptions  of  the  different  towns:  in 
the  capitab  and  provincial  cities  they  are  generally  good  throughout  the 
States;  but  at  the  intermediate  post-stations  they  are  often  very  bad,  and 
like  all  the  Italian  inns,  out  of  the  largest  towns,  they  are  dirty  and  infested 
with  vermin,  to  an  extent  of  which  those  who  travel  only  in  winter  can  have 
no  idea.  The  prices  vary  in  different  towns,  and  particularly  according  to  the 
cireumstanoes  in  which  the  traveller  makes  his  appearance ;  the  charges  for 
those  who  travel  in  their  own  carriages  being  notoriously  higher,  frequently 
by  100  per  cent.,  than  for  those  who  travel  vetturino.  With  few  exceptions, 
five  per  cent,  is  allowed  by  the  landlords  to  couriers.  It]may  be  useful  to  bear 
in  nund  that  in  travelling  there  is  a  better  chance  of  obtaining  a  good  dinner 
at  one  o'clock,  than  at  a  later  period  of  the  day,  when  it  is  little  else  than  a 
rifaeimento  of  the  previous  meal.  Those  who  wish  tea  and  coffee  in  the 
evening  in  preference  to  supper,  should  carry  milk  with  them  from  the  place 
where  they  have  slqst  on  the  previous  night,  as  it  is  often  not  to  be  had  in 
the  evening  at  the  inns  on  the  road.  The  tea  to  be  found  on  the  road  is  also 
very  bad.  In  r^ard  to  prices,  in  the  country  and  smaller  towns  S  piiuls  a 
bead  is  a  proper  price  for  dinner,  3  pauls  for  a  bed,  and  2  to  2J  pauls  for 
bnakfost ;  but  the  English  in  general  are  charged  much  higher,  unless  their 
previous  experience  enables  them  to  resist  the  overcharge.  As  in  many 
parts  of  Oflrmany,  the  inns  at  the  post-houses  are  generally  built  over  the 
stables,  and  in  some  places  the  same  entrance  serves  for  man  and  beast.  The 
seeond  floor  of  these  houses  is  preferable  to  the  first.  In  cases  of  this  kind, 
it  would  be  absurd  to  carry  English  habits  and  prejudices  so  far  as  to  expect 
the  comforts  and  oonvenienees  of  the  great  cities :  travellers  never  gain  an^ 
thing  by  exacting  or  requiring  more  than  the  people  can  supply ;  and  if 
they  have  sufficient  philosophy  to  keep  their  temper,  th^  will  generally 
find  that  they  are  treated  with  civility  and  kindness. 


^5 


Sb         ROUTES  1,  2,  3.  —  MANIUi,   Ac-TO  FEHRARA,        [Sect.  1. 

ROUTE  1,  loneda  througli   Campo  StuiW,  C»  da' 

Coppi,  and  I'asui  dl  Ci  Dionca,  to 
«1UA  TO  rtKKAni,  j      a    Finale,   the    Modenew  frontier. 

Here  the  Fanaro  is  crossed,  and  the 
Papal  Suites  are  hkid  after  entered  M 
SaiUa  Biatirii,  the  fruuiJer  station  and 

route  falls  into  the  high  post-road  from 


0  Guvcraola 
D  to  Sermido 
io  Boiideno 


The  old  roBt-roml  from  Mantua  to 
Feirara  followed  that  to  Padua  as  lat 
as  Nogara  <1  post),  wheuco  it  turnsd 
Boutlivaid  to  Ostiglis,  croaung  the  Po 
ut  Revere. 

The  present  route  fullowii  the  Icl^ 
bank  of  the  Mincio  to  Governolo,  near 
which  that  river  &Us  into  the  Fo. 

ij  Governolo.  Leaving  this  place, 
tbe  road  shirts  the  left  bank  of  the  Po 
as  far  as  Ostiglia,  whence  it  crosses 
to  Revere.  It  tbea  follows  the  right 
bank  aa  far  as 

1^  Sermide,  a  post  station.  A  fe 
miles  bejond,  the  frontier  of  the  Loi 
l«rdo- Venetian  Kingdom  is  passed 
Quadrelle  ;  and  a  little  further  on  s 
parated  from  it  by  the  Fossa  Pandait 
is  Sttllala,  the  Papal  frontier  Cuato 
House,  where  passports  and  baggage 


l|  KKHRiaa  (Route  ; 
ROUTE  a 


Padua  lo  Monselice 
Monselioe  to  Rovigo 
Rovigo  to  Polesella  - 
Polesella  to  Ferrara  - 


:1S' 


rara;    Tre  Mori;    Stella  d'Oroj  La 
Corona. 

The  road  between  Padua  and  Ro- 
vigo follows  the  course  of  the  canal, 
and  in  its  interesting  sliarafter  ooiu 
trosts    strongly    with    the    dull    and 


1}  Boade     . 
Boulfl,  formerly  a  fief  of  the   D'Ei 
amilyj  situoted  in  the  low  plains 
taraected  by  •'•-  '"—-'"       'i''-  •■■ 


ward  as  Cu  as  Uolugiia.      Before  ar* 

riving  at  Rcyvigo,  the  Adigu  is  crossed 

hy  a  jnnt  uotaitt;  and  between  it  and 

iinall  town  of  7,000 ;  Kertara,  the  Po  is  passed  by  a  similar 


oogtbe    bar 

a  Canal,  through  Vigarai 

^  1}  FaaaiHs,  described  in  Route  I 
ROUTE  2. 


raveller  bow  much  Ferrara  and  its 
ilains  are  at  tbe  mercy  of  that  riser, 
['he  toad  lies  along  the  low  and 
narshy  Poleaioa  (  it  la  bordered  by 
poplar  trees,  and  is  remarkable  only 
"  *ts  monotony.  'ITie  Papal  frontier 
on  and  Dogona  are  at  Fmte  La- 
•ro,  oa  the  south  side  of  tbe  river, 
.  [called  the"  Port  of  the  Po,"  from  the 
'  considerable  commerce  it  maintains 
with  Lorobardy  in  com  and  wine, 
which  arc  brought  here  for  shipment, 
'i'he  Pandlio  Canal  leads  direct  from 
Ponte  Lagoscuro  to  the  Porta  S. 
Benedetto  at  Ferrara,  distaut  3  miles. 


oad  follows  tbe  left  bank  of 
ro  for  the  first  three  posts.        '^, 
W?i  Suoaporto,      From  Ih'ia    it    pro-    * 


ited,   and    the  best. 


Papal  States.^    -  ihoute  3,- — fehrara^  — .  Sckool  of  Art.         14 . 


lately  much  -improved,  civil  and  not 
unreasonable.  Stella  d'Oro,  situated 
opposite  the  Citadel,  is  recommended 
as  clean  and  as  having  baths.  La  Co- 
rona.] Few  cities  ranking  among^the 
aucient  Italian  capitals  are  so  much 
neglected  by  travellers  as  Ferrara^ 
and  yet  few  are  so  much  associated 
vith  interesting  recollections.  It  is 
situated  in  a  fertile  but  unhealthy 
plain,  at  a  level  of  only  6^  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  northern  branch  of  the  Po,  which 
fiums  the  boundary  of  the  Lombardo- 
Yenetian  Kingdom.  The  dreary  plain 
of  the  Polesina,  intersected  only  by 
the  dikes  of  the  river,  presents  an  uni- 
£9nn  and  unbroken  horizon,  and  ex- 
tends, with  little  variation,  up  to  the 
walls  of  Ferrara. 

The  aspect  of  the  city,  once  the  re- 
ttdence  of  a  court  whose  name  was 
celebrated  tliroughoiit  Europe,  still 
retains  many  traces  of  its  ancient 
grandeur.  The  broad,  regular  and 
ample  streets  appear  like  those  of  a 
deserted  capital ;  grass  grows,  on  the 
pavements,  the  magnificent  palaces 
are  untenanted  and  filling  into  decay, 
and  the  walls,  seven  miles  in  circuit, 
which  once  contained  nearly  100,000 
souls,  now  enclose  little  more  than  a 
fourth  of  that  number.  The  popula- 
tion is  collected  together  in  the  centre 
of  the  city,  and  thinly  scattered  over 
Ae  remaining  portion,  like  a  body  still 
retaining  life,  while  the  extremities 
have  lost  their  vital  power.  Ravenna 
itself  is  hardly  more  fallen  than  Fer- 
rara, although  it  was  the  great  com- 
mercial emporium  of  Italy  during  the 
middle  ages,  the  eittd  bene  avventurota 
of  Ariosto,  and  the  gran  donna  del  Pb 
of  Tassonl. 

The  modem  city  is  supposed  to  have 
l>een  founded  in  tlic  fifth  century,  when 
tlie  invasion  of  the  Iluns  and  the  de- 
struction of  Aquilcja  drove  the  inha- 
bitants into  the  marshes  for  security. 
Its  walls  were  built  in  the  sixth  cen- 
tury by  the  Exarchs  of  liavenna,  and 
it  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  a  city  in 
661*  when  the  Bishopric  of  Vigoveiiza  ^ 
trat  UanArrad  to  it     But  the  chief/ 


interest  of  Ferrara  arises  from  its  con- 
,  nection  with  the  house  of  D'Este,  one 
of  the   £ew   princely   families    which, 
could  boast  of  ancient  distinction  in 
its  lineage,  and  from  which  the  Ducal 
house  of  Brunswick  and  the   Royal 
Family  of  England  trace  their  direct 
descent.    As  far  back  as  the  tenth  cen- 
;  tury  we  find  Ferrara  connected  with 
this  family  ;  first,  as  supreme  magis." 
trates,   and   afterwards  as  hereditary 
princes  (1240),  holding  generally  of 
the  Pope,  though  sometimes  asserting 
their  independence.  It  remained  under 
their  sway  until  the  extinction  of  the 
legitimate  branch  in  1597,  in  the  per- 
son of  Alfi:>nso  II. ;  and  in  the  follow- 
ing year  it  was  attached  to  the  ehurch 
by  Clement  VIII.,   on  the  pretext 
that  Ccesar  d'Este,    the    representa-; 
tive   of   the  family  by   a  collateral' 
line,  was  disqualified  by  illegitimacy.' 
During   the    sixteenth    century    the' 
Court  of  Ferrara  was  unsurpassed  by 
any  other  in  Europe  for  its  refinement, 
and  intelligence;  its  University  was 
famous  throughout  Christendom,  and' 
so  many  English  students  were  col- 
lected within  its  walls  as  to  form,  as; 
they  did  in  Bologna,  a  dbtinct  nation 
in  that  learned  body.     But  there  are. 
greater  names    associated    with    the] 
history    of    Ferrara    at    this    period 
than  those  of  its  princely  sovereigns'. 
**  Melancholy  as  the  city  looks  now, 
every    lover  of  Italian  poetry,"  says 
Forsyth,  "  must  view  with  affection 
the  retreat  of  an  Ariosto,  a  Tasso,  a 
Guarini.    Such  is  the  ascent  of  wealth 
over  genius,  that  one  or  two  princes 
could  create   an  Athens  in  the  midst 
of  this  Bceotia.     The  little  courts  of 
Ferrara  and  Urbino  seemed  to  emu- 
late those  of  Alexandria  and  Perga- 
mos,    contending    for     pre-eminence 
only  in  literature  and  elegance." 

The  School  of  Ferrora,  founded  and 
patronised  by  the  D'Este  family,  de- 
serves especial  notice  in  connection 
with  this  tribute  to  the  intellectual 
history  of  the  city.  It  is  observed  l)y 
Lanzi,  that  "  Ferrara  boasts  o^  a.  ^v» 
of  excellent  paintexs,  fax  ?i\x\)CT\oT  lo\\.% 
fortunes  and  pop\i\al\otv\   «^  ^vttwxa- 


12 


BODTB  3. FERHABA. — SeAooI  ofArl, 


[Sect.  I. 


trhen  w«  cojuider  the  ficriei  of  poets 
which  II  cherished,  from  Bujardo  and 
Arioslo  doHii  to  our  own  limes,  i  sure 
criterion  of  nccompliiihed  and  refined 
minds  more  than  ordinarily  disposed 
towards  the  fine  arts."     To  this  cir- 

tlie  inhabitants  in  their  patronage  of 
art,  nuty  lie  oilded  the  fiiiourHkle  po- 
sition of  the  eily,  in  its  eontiguity  tu 
Venice,  Parma,  and  Bologna,  and  iu 
convenient  distance  from  Florence  and 
students  were  en- 


the  pupil  of  Galmsi,  employed  at  the 
court  of  Borgo  d'Este  in  the  time  of 
Stroizi,  who  mentions  bin  in  bis 
poetry ;  hii  minute  and  elalwrate 
workmanship  is  admirably  seen  in  the 
miniatures  of  (he  chair  books  in  the 
cathedral.    Among  the  paii 


eriod    t 


I    Lorei 


Bbled   t 


Bdliools  of  Italy  what  was  most  eon- 
genial  to  the  tutes  of  each,  and  to 
profit  by  their  several  excellencies. 
So  great,  indeed,  was  (he  influence  of 
this  Intler  circumstance,  tlutt  Zanetii 
(.'onsidered  it  doubtful  whether,  after 
the  five  great  sebools,  Ferrara  did  not 
claim  precedence  over  all  others-  Tlie 
first  fiut  recorded  in  ooanection  with 
the  fine  arts  at  Ferrara  is  the  cammii- 
liongiien  by  Aiso  d'Este,  in  I24Q, 
(o  the  Venetian  painter  Gelasia  di 
Niceolo,  a  pupil  of  the  Greek  artist 
Teofane  of  Constantinople,  for  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Fall  of  Phaeton.  In  the 
fourteenth  century,  when  Giotto  pos-sed 
through  Ferrara,  on  his  way  from 
Verona  to  Floienee,  he  was  employed 
by  the  Duke  to  punt  some  frescoes  in 
his  palace  and  in  the  church  of  Sl 
Agostino,  which  were  still  extant  in 
the  time  of  VasatL  After  the  lapse 
of  some  years,  during  which  several 
names  are  mentioned  which  have  sur- 
vived their  works,  Galasso  Galassi  ap- 
peared early  in  the  fifteenth  century  i 
his  works  are  chiefly  confined  to  Bo- 
logna, and  none  are  now  found  in  his 
native  city.  He  was  followed  by  An- 
tonio da  Ferrara,  known  by  bis  works 
at  Urbino  and  Cittii  di  Castello,  who 
paintad  some  chambers  La  the  palace 
of  Alberto  d'Este  in  1438,  at  the  (' 
when  the  General  Council  was 
there  fur  the  union  of  the  Greek 
Latin  churches,  and  which  is  supposed 
to  have  supplied  him  with  his  subject. 
Sat  the  most  celebrated  of  the  early 
riioters  was  Cosimo  Tan  or  Cosmi, 


Costa,  the  reputed  pupil  of  Francesco 
Francia,  and  Francesco  CosBO,  both 
known  by  their  works  at  Bologna. 
Coito,  indeed,  nuiy  be  regarded  as  the 
true  fiithcr  of  the  school ;  for  the  series 
of  painters   from    his   time    may    be 

among  the  first  masters  of  luly.  Hia 
tniHt  eminent  pupil  was  Ereole 
Grandi,  called  by  Vasari  Ereole  da 
Ferrara,  whose  great  work,  painted 
for  the  Garganelli  chapel,  is  now-pre- 
led  in  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts 
Bologna.  Lodovieo  Mazzolini, 
called  also  Lodovieo  da  Ferrara.  on- 
pupil  of  Costa,  is  known  by  his 


'orks  ii 


B  gallerl 


]  Do- 


.  _   . .     .  ,  the  master  of  Gar 

Talo,  ii  remarkable  for  having  become 
the  pupil  of  his  own  scholar,  and  for 
the  works  he  produced  after  his  style 
had  been  remodelled  on  the  example 
of  Garofalo.  The  school  of  Ferrara 
was  at  its  prime  under  the  latter 
punter  and  the  two  Dossi,  in  the  early 
part  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when 
Alfonso  d'Este  was  the  patron  of  lite- 
rature and  art.  This  prince  hod  called 
Titian  to  Ferrara  to  adorn  his  palace 
by  his  works  ;  and,  among  other  ccle. 
brated  paintings,  the  "  Crista  della 
Moneta,"  of  the  Dresden  Gallery,  was 
painted  during  his  stay  at  Ferrara. 
Dosso  Dossi,  and  his  brother  Giubat- 
tista,  born  at  Dosso,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fenars,  were  among  the  earliest  pro- 
teges ^of  Alfonso  and  his  successor 
Ereole  II.  j  and  their  merit  is  suffi- 
ciently attested  by  the  fact,  that  Ariosto 
has  immortalized  them  among  the  best 
painters  of  Italy.  Ortolano  is  another 
painter  of  this  school,  whose  works 
are  often  confounded  with  those  of 
Garolaloi  he  is  known  as  a  successful 
imitator  of  Raphael,  and  some  of  his 
works  arc  yet  seen  in  his  native  rity. 


Papai  Statiu,'\  ROUTX  S.— FBBBAaA.— i7^0n>Mi/*on. 


13 


Benvenuto  Tines  lietter  known  by  the 
name  of  Garofido,  from  the  pink  which 
he  introduced  into  his  paintings,  stands 
St  the  head  of  the  Ferrarese  school, 
mod  is  justly  called  the  Raphael  of 
Ferrara :  some  of  his  nx>st  celebrated 
works  are  still  found  here.  His  pupil, 
Girolamo  de*  Carpir'  recommended  to 
£roole  II.  by   Titian    himself  and 
whose  oil  paintings  were  of  extreme 
rarity  in  the  time  of  Lansi,  may  also 
be  studied  at  Ferrara.     While  these 
two  artists  excelled  in  the  graces  of 
the  art,  Bastianino,  or  Bastiano  Filippi, 
was  introducing  the  style  of  Michael 
Angdo^  as  seen  in  the  grand  picture 
of  the  Last  Judgment  in  the  cathedraL 
AnoUier  painter  of  this  school,  Scar- 
sdlino^  who  was  called  the  Paul  Ve- 
ronese of  Ferrara,  and  who  studied 
under  tiiat  master,  has  left  some  works 
in  his  native  phice ;  he  is,  however, 
better  known  by  those  to  be  found  in 
the  galleries  at  Rome,  where  the  name 
of  his  pupil,  Camillo  Ricci,  a  success- 
ful follower  of  the  Venetian  school, 
also   occurs.        Giuseppe    Ma^zuoli, 
known  by  the  surname  of  Bastaruolo, 
and  the  contemporary  of  Bastianino, 
was  called  the  Titian  of  Ferrara :  we 
shall  hereafter  see  that  he  has  left  be- 
hind him  several  works  by  which  his 
claim  to  that  title  may  be  appreciated. 
Ferrara  likewise  contains  some  inter- 
esting examples  of  Domenico  Mona, 
and  oi  his  able  pupil  Giulio  Cromer, 
or  Croma,  who  was  selected  to  copy 
the  principal  paintings  in  the  city, 
when  the  originals  were  transferred 
to   Rome,  after  Cledient  VIII.  had 
seised  upon  Ferrara  and  attached  it 
to  the  church.     After  this  event,  the 
school  rapidly   declined  for  want  of 
patronage  and  judicious  management 
Some  Bolognese  masters  endeavoured, 
with  little  success,  to  introduce  the 
style  of  the  Caracci ;  Carlo  Bonone, 
the  scholar  of  Bastaruolo,  was  perhaps 
the  most  celebrated  follower  of  this 
new  method ;  his  works  in  Sta.  Maria 
in  Vado  are  highly  praised  by  Ltanxi 
for  their  complete  knowledge  of  that 
kind  of  foreshortening,  called  d&  toito 
in  fify  wbcfv  Sguim  ue  tuppoied  to 


be  seen  above  the  eye.  Another 
artist,  worthy  of  mention  as  a  follower 
of  Bononi,  is  Chenda,  or  Alfonso  Ri- 
varola,  who  was  employed,  at  the  re- 
commendation of  Guide,  to  finish  some 
of  Bonone's  works,  but  was  better 
known  by  his  decorations  for  public 
spectacles  and  tournaments.  It  is 
unnecessary  to  enumerate  any  of  the 
painters  whose  names  appear  in  the 
subsequent  history  of  this  school,  for 
Ferrara  never  recovered  the  change  of 
masters ;  and  its  school  gradually  de- 
clined, until,  at  length,  in  spite  of  the 
establishment  of  an  academy,  it  be- 
came completely  extinct.  Notwith- 
standing, however,  this  decline  and 
the  loss  of  its  political  influence,  Fer- 
rara still  retains  many  interesting  ex- 
amples of  the  school,  which  will  be 
noticed  in  the  subsequent  description 
of  the  city. 

In  addition  to  the  brilliancy  of  its 
court  and  the  celebrity  of  its  school 
of  art,  Ferrara  is  remarkable  for  the 
impulse  which  it  gave  to  the  Reform- 
ation. The  names  of  Arlosto  and 
Tasso  have  almost  eclipsed  the  recol* 
lection  of  that  event,  and  of  the 
asylum  given  to  Calvin  and  to  Marot 
by  the  Duchess  Ren^e,  the  high- 
minded  daughter  of  Louis  XII.,  and 
the  wife  of  Ercole  II.  At  an  early 
period,  Ferrara  afforded  protection  to 
numerous  friends  of  the  reformed  faith 
who  fled  from  other  parts  of  Italy, 
and  even  from  countries  beyond  the 
Alps.  Dr.  M*Crie  ascribes  this  cir- 
cumstance to  the  influence  of  the  ac- 
complished princes^  just  mentionedt 
who  had  become  acquainted  with  the 
reformed  doctrine  previous  to  her  de- 
parture from  France  in  1527,  by  means 
of  some  of  those  learned  persons  who 
frequented  the  court  of  Margaret, 
Queen  of  Navarre.  "  Tlie  first  per- 
sons to  whom  she  extended  her  pro- 
tection and  hospitality  were  her  own 
countrymen,  whom  the  violence  of 
persecution  had  driven  out  of  France. 
Madame  de  Soubise,  the  governess  of 
the  duchess,  had  introduced  ««^«:ti!L 
men  of  letten  \nio  IW  ooxitX.  oi  1Ey«sa« 
during  the  Ute  T«\g^    ^>^^  Wi^  "» 


■■R0irrfr3.-^»ERRARA.-^Ci(rt«fr«/.-        E^ect,  Iv ' 


(bat  period,  the  city  slill  cnrties  i 
comidtiRblr;  Ueiv  in  corn,  and  hi 
inanursclor;  of  ruEiari  from  the  roes  of 
sturgeona,  tor  which  the  Po  is  bniouik 
A  great  deal  of  bLuineiB  was  formerly 
done  here  in  hemp,  of  which  large 
ijuuntiliei  founil  Ibeic  wnjr  into  the 
Euglidi  dockyards,  the  Ferrara  growth 
being  Gonsidercd  the  best  for  oardBge; 
but,  from  the  heavy  export  duties  and 
other  tiicDuutances.  the  trade  haa 
cunsideribl]'  declined.  The  high  du- 
ties on  manufactured  irliclea  baxe- 
thrown  ihe  supply  of  the  cau^itry  iuCo. 
the  hands  of  the  Swiss  and  the  mer- 
chants of  Lombardy,  and  all  the  cir> 
cnlating  oapical  is  in  the  bauds  of  the, 
Jews,  wlio  are  in  Ferrara  a  very  opu- 
lent  body,  and  well  dispo&ed  towards 
the  Government :  their  number,  is 
about  300a  They  inhabit,  as  in  all 
the  otller  Fapal  cities,  a  distinct 
quarter  of  the  town  called  a  j/htllo, 
walled  in;  it  vus  lonnerly  usual  ati 
Rome  and  other  places  to  lock  them 
in  at  night;  here,  however,  their  im- 
poitance  Ims  eieinpitd  ibeni  from  the 
rigid  observance  of  that  rule.  At  the 
present  time,  Ferrara  is  the  capital  of 
a  l.egatiou,  comprehending  210,883 
iuhabitnnts,  and  140  square  leagues  of 
territory;  the  population  of  the  city 
andsu1iurbsis25,5SG.  In i^ite oftbeir 
descMcd  appearance,  the  effect  of  its 
brood  and  bamleome  stri^ets  is  pattt- 
cularly  imposing ;  that  of  San  Bene- 
detto is  said  to  be  about  0427  feel, 
nearly  a  mils  and  a  quarter  in  length ;, 
and  its  palace^  though  many  of  tbem. 
have  neither  doors  nor  windows,  and. 

balconies,  have  an  fdr  of  courtly  gran- 
deur in  accordaocB  with  the  ancient 
ceUbiity  of  the  city. 

Jii  Ca(lu!drai,  dedicated  to  St.  Paul,, 
was  consecrated  iii  1135;  its  gothic 
Bitetior,  with  few  esceptions,  belongs 
to  that  period,  but  the  interior  has 
been  alterud  aad  spoiled  by  modem 
The  &ont  is  divided  by 


the  court  of  Fcrraio,  along 
I  mth  her  son,  Jean  de  Panhenai.sieut 
de  Souhise,  allerwards  a  principal 
leader  of  the  Protestant  party  in 
France;  her  daughter.  Aune  de  Pai- 
thenai,  distinguished  for  her  elegant 
tasMi  and  the  future  huibnud  of  this 
young  lady,  Antoine  de  Pont,  Count 
de  Marennes,  who  adhered  to  the  re- 
{brmed  cause  until  the  death  of  his 
wife.  In  the  year  1534,  the  ceJe- 
brated  French  poet,  Clement  Marot, 
fled  tiom  his  native  country,  in  conse- 
(^uence  of  (he  persecution  excited  by 
the  aHkir  of  the  placardu  and,  after 
cesiding  for  a  nhort  time  at  the  court 
of  the   Queen  of  Navarre,  in  Beam, 

mended  by  Madame  de  Souhise  to 
the  Duchess  who  made  him  her  se- 
cretary 1  and  his  Irjend,  Lyon  Jamet,. 
finding  it  necessary  soon  aiier  to  join 
liim,  met  with  a  reception  equally 
gracious.  About  the  same  time,  the 
oelebrated  retbnner,  John  Calvin, 
uHted  Ferrara,  where  be  spent  umc 
months,  under  the  assumed  nan^e  of 
Charles  Heppeville.  Ue  received  the 
mast  distinguished  attention  from  tlie 
duebess,  who  was  confirmed  in  the 
Protestant  faith  by  his  inBlruetions, 
and  ever  after  retained  Ihe  higliest 
respect  for  his  character  and  talents." 
Among  the  other  learned  personages 
auombled  here  at  tliis  time  was  Fulvlu 
Peregrino  Morata,  who  had  heeu 
tulor  to  the  two  younger  brothers  of 
the  duke,  and  who  became  still  more 
eelebTBled  as  the  father  of  Olympia 
^oratu,  the  most  eiill^tcaed  female 
of  her  age ;  wh%  £st  "  acquired 
dutiug  her  residence  in  the  ducal 
pBlaoe.  that  knowledge  of  the  gospel 
which  supported  her  mind  under  the 
pitrMions  and  liuidships  whicli  she 
aSerwarda  hod  to  eudurc." 
-  The  description  of  Ariosto,  and  the 
»ealuwM)y  of  a  mer  t  mporary 

(uthijiities  pro*  d  ay 

of  the  house  0    U  lus  e,  F  was 

one  of  tlie  grei      omm       al        es  of 
Italy.      Iw  Ira       b  gan        d  in 

the  aiiteenth  c  d  gh 


inudl  t( 


with  pi 


equal  portions, 

nounled  with   a  galde  containing  a 

i-heel  window,  and  ornamented  with  a 


jPiqH$l  SUUes.^.    ttoutE  S.^r^F£RRARA*-^  Ckurokes. 


1-5 


nuige  of  pmnted  arche&   The  porch  is 
composed  of  a  semicircular  arch  sup- 
ported by  columns;  the  flanks  have 
also  semicircular  arches.  The  bas-re- 
liefs with  which  this  part  is  covered 
are  in  a  fine  state  {^preservation ;  they 
represent  the  Last  Judgment,  various 
events  in  the  life  of  Christ,  the  seven 
Mortal   Sins,  with  numerous  sacred, 
pro&ne^  and  grotesque  emblems.  Over 
the  left  door  is  a  colossal  bust  of  the 
Virj^n,  in  Greek  marble,  long  vene* 
rated  as  the  miraculous  Madonna  of 
Ferrara.    On  the  same  side  is  a  statue 
of  Alberto  d*£ste,  in  the  pilgrim's  dress 
in  which  he  returned  from  Rome  with 
bulls  and  indulgences,  in  1390.     The 
interior,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  Cross, 
has  been  modernised  at  various  times : 
the  semicircular  choir  was  first  added 
in  1499,  by  Rosette,  a  native  architect, 
known  as  one  of  the  earliest  restorers 
of  Italian  architecture;   the  portion 
beyond  the  transept  dates  from  1637, 
and  the  remainder  firom  between  1712 
and  1735.    There  are  several  interest- 
ing pountings  to  be  noticed :  the  As- 
sumption, the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul, 
and  the  superb  picture  of  the  Virgin 
throned  with  Saints,  are  by  Garo/ah, 
The  chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramento  con- 
tains some  remarkable  sculptures  of 
angels,  saints,  &c.,  by  Andrea  Ferreriy 
a  sculptor  of  the  last  century;  the 
altar-piece   is   by    ParoHni,  a  native 
painter  (1733),  whom  Lanzi  describes 
as  **  Tultimo  nel  cui  sepolcro  si  sia  in- 
ciso  elogio  di  buon  pittore ;  con  lui  fu 
sepolta  per  allora  la  gloria  della  pittura 
ferrarese.**     In  the  choir  is  the  Last 
Judgment   by   Baatianino,  (Bastiano 
Filippi ),  one  of  the  favourite  pupils  and 
the  best  copyi&t  of  Michael  Angelo. 
Lanzi  says  that  it  occupied  three  years 
in  painting,  and  describes  it  as  *<so 
near  to  that  of  Michael  Angelo  in  the 
Sistiiie  Chapel,  that  the  whole  Floren- 
tine school  has  nothing  to  compare 
with  it.     It  is  characterised,"  he  says, 
**  by  grandeur  of  design,  a  great  variety 
of  figures,  a  good  disposition  of  the 
groups,  and   by  the  pleasing  repose 
which  it  presents  to  the  eye  of  the 
lt_9§§mB  impossible  that  in 


a  subject  already  occupied  by  Buonar-- 
roti,  Filippo  should  have  had  the 
power  of  showing  himself  so  original! 
and  so  grand.  We  see,  that  like  all 
true  imitators,  he  copied  not  the  fi*. 
gures,  but  the  spirit  and  the  genius 
of  his  example.**  Like  Dante  and* 
Michael  Angelo,  Bastianino  availed 
himself  of  this  opportunity  to  put  his 
friends  among  the  elect,  and  his  ene^ 
mies  among  the  damned ;  and  the  pic- 
ture consequently  contains  numerous 
portraits  of  both.  Among  these,  are 
pointed  out  the  young  woman  who 
refused  his  hand,  placed  by  the  artist, 
among  the  latter;  while  the  one  whom 
he  married  is  classed  among  the  blessed, 
and  U  seen  maliciously  gazing  at  her 
early  rivaL  It  is  much  to  be  regretted 
that  recent  attempts  to  restore  this  fine, 
work  by  retouclt^ing  have  injured  the- 
e£fect  of  the  original  colouring.  The. 
fifth  chapel  contains  another  painting 
by  this  master,  the  St.  Catherine, 
called  by  X^anzi  *<  la  gran  tavola  di  S. 
Caterina."  Tlie  Annunciation,  and 
the  St.  George  are  by  Contno  Tura,  or 
Cosme,  the  painter  of  the  twenty-three 
choir  books,  presented  by  the  Bishop 
Bartolommeo  di  Rovere,  the  execu- 
tion of  which  has  been  so  highly  prized 
as  to  be  preferred  by  many  to  the 
fiimous  miniatures  of  Siena,  On  an 
adjoining  altar  are  five  bronze  statues 
representing  the  Saviour  on  the  Cross, 
the  Virgin,  St.  John  and  St.  George,, 
by  Bindelli  and  Maretcotti,  much  ad- 
mired by  Donatello,  who  estimated 
their  value  at  1641  golden  ducats. 
The  cathedral  contains  also  two  sepul- 
chral stones,  which  will  interest  the 
stranger;  the  first  is  that  of  Urban  III., 
who  died  of  grief  on  hearing  of  the  re- 
verses of  the  second  crusade,  previous 
to  tlie  loss  of  Jerusalem ;  and  the  se- 
cond that  of  Lilio  Gregorio  Giraldi, 
the  celebrated  mythologist.  The  mo- 
nument of  Giraldi  has  been  removed 
to  the  Campo  Santo;  the  inscription 
on  the  tablet,  dated  1550,  and  written 
by  himself,  records  the  poverty  which 
excited  the  compassion  of  Monta^gCL«> 


"  "SMX 


Opui  fiorenltt  KvoVla^«  \ 


.  *» 


BOUTB  S.  — FERHARA,—  Churcheg. 


Lut,  in  spite  of  his  oomplsints,  it  ap- 
pear* from  Tiraboschi,  tliat  he  was  as- 
nMed  by  Ihe  Duchess  Renie,  and  thai 
he  left  at  hia  deoth  it  sum  o(  10,000 

Tkt  Church  of  S.  JVymccico,  Toundcd 
by  the  Dube  Ercole  1.,  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  Ferrara.  Among 
ita  pictures  are  (he  following  by  Qaro 
faU :  the  Betrayal  of  Ihe  SatiouT,  un 
fbiliinHlely  much  injured)  the  Virgii 
and  Child,  with  St.  John  aud  St.  Je 
lOTDC,  a  oharmiiig  piclure ;  a  beaurifu 
Holy  Family;  the  Railing  of  Liuarus, 
one  of  his  best  works  j  aud  the  Mas- 
aaere  of  Ihe  Innocents,  one  of  the  most 
touching  representations  of  ihc  subject, 
composed,  says  Lsnzi,  with  the  aid  of 
clay  ligures,  and  with  the  landscape, 
the  drapery,  and  the  other  accessories, 
taken  from  the  life.  The  Flight  out 
of  £gypt  is  by  Scafttltitto  j  there  are 
three  fine  works  by  Mono,  the  Depo. 
Eilion,  the  Resurrection,  and  the  As- 
cension;  and  a  Holy  Family,  a  very 
inteiestiug  work,  by  Ortolano.  The 
oburch  eontaina  also  the  monument 
of  the  Marchese  di  Villa  of  Ferrara, 
Belebrated  for  his  defence  of  Candia 
against  the  Turk3;*in  ISTBi  several 
lombi  of  the  d'Este  princes,  and  that 
of  Giambftdista  Pigna,  the  historian  of 
the  bmily,  and  (he  secretary  of  Duke 
Alfonso.  Not  the  least  remarkable 
curiosity  of  the  church  is  the  famous 

etery  part  of  the  edifice. 

"  Tlie  nave  seema  to  have,  been  in- 
tended to  present  a  (cries  of  cujwUs, 
Bs  the  side  aisles  actually  do  on  a 
smaller  scale;  but  in  its  present  state, 


.rcle, 


fiatct 


mg  IS  It 


troduced  instead  of  a  cupola.  Standing 
under  any  one  of  these,  the  slightcM 
footstep  is  repeated  a  great  many  times, 
but  60  rapidly  that  it  is  difficult  to 
count  the  reverberations.  I  counted 
sixteen;  but  the  effect  is  a  continued 
clatter,  rather  than  a  succession  of  dis- 
tinct sounds." —  WmdB. 

The  Church  of  Sla.  Maria  del  Vada, 
one  or  Ihe  oldest  in  the  city,  is  cele- 
brated  for  a  mincle 


of  Bolsena,  nhose  fame  the  i^cuius  of 
Itaphael  has  made  immortal.  'Die 
church  tradition  relates,  that  the  faith 
of  the  prior  having  tailed  at  Ihe  mo- 
ment of  consecration  on  Easier  Sunday 

converted  him  from  hisdiibelief.  This 
church  is  also  celebrated  for  its  mag. 
niSeent  paintings  by  Curb  Brmtme,  ihe 
greatness  of  whose  talent  can  only.  In 
Lanii'i  opinion,,  be  appreciated  here. 
He  relates  that  Guercino,  when  he 
removed  from  Cento  to  Ferrara,  spent 
hoursin  Btudyingtheseworks.  Among 
them  are  the  Marriage  of  Caiu ;  the 
visit  of  the  Virgin  to  Elizabeih;  the 
Crowning  ofthe  Virgin;  the  Paradise; 
the  Mirncleofthe  Host;  the  Spoiialiiio, 
left  unfinished  at  his  death,  and  com. 
pleted  at  the  suggestion  of  Guido  by 
Cienda ;  the  Ascension,  copied  from 
Garufalo,  and  the  half  figures  on  the 

theformof  St.  Guarini,  the  portrait  of 
theaulhorof"  II  Pastor  Fido."  Tlie 
splendid  painting  of  Sl  John  in  Patmos 
contemplating  the  harlot  of  Babylon 
is  by  ZJojjo  Daiai ,-  the  head  of  St. 
John  was  considered  by  Lanii  a  "  pro- 
digy of  eipresiion,"  but  the  picture 
has  been  disfigured  by  the  green  dra- 
pery added  by  some  Bulugnese  artist 
to  satisfy  the  fastidious  scruples  of  the 
clergy.  The  Tribute  Money,  a  grace- 
ful work  in  the  Varano  Chapel,  is  by 
Palnia  CcTcAio.  Opposite,  is  the  paint- 
ing of  Justice  and  Power,  containing 
the  celebrated  Latin  enigma  of  Ale«- 
sandro  Guarini,  which  has  not  yet 
been  explained.  The  Visiution  is  by 
fbneUi,  the  master  of  Garo&lo  ;  the 
Miracle  of  St.  Antony  is  one  of  tlie  best 
worksof  Caro&lo's  pupil,  Carpi;  and 
the  Death  of  the  Virgin  is  by  VtUare 
CdrpaceiOj  the  Venetian  painter.  In 
the  sacristy  are  the  Annunciation  by 
Pantlli,  and  a  Flight  out  of  Egypt, 
another  work  of  the  Venetian  School. 
Sta.  Maria  del  Vado  contains  the 
tombs  of  some  of  the  most  illustrious 
3  of  Ferrara,  and  of  Titus  Ves- 
pafflan  Stiosai,  and  hia  celebrated  son, 
Ercole,  classed  by  Ariosto  among  the 
fitat  poeta.    The  painterB  whose  ashes 


J^qpal  States^}         boute  3. — ^ferrara.— CAure^*. 


17 


repose  here  are  Ortolano,  Garofiilo, 
Bonone,  Bastianino,  and  Dielai.  The 
elder  Strozzi  is  known  also  as  the 
President  of  the  Grand  Council  of 
TweWe^  but  he  acquired  a  less  envi- 
able  notoriety  as  a  minister  than  as  a 
poet,  for  it  B  recorded  by  Muratori 
that  in  his  official  capacity  be  was 
hated,  •*  piii  del  diayolo.** 

Tke  (^urdk  and  Monastery  of  San 
SenetUUo,  classed  among  the  finest 
buildings  of  Ferrara,  have  suffered 
more  vicissitudes  than  perhaps  any 
other  edifice  in  the  city.  The  monas- 
tery was  occupied  as  barracks  by 
Austrian,  Russian,  and  French  troops, 
and  was  afterwards  converted  into  a 
military  hospital ;  the  church,  during 
the  political  troubles  of  Italy,  was  shut 
up,  and  was  only  re-opened  for  divine 
service  in  1812.  It  was  formerly  cele- 
brated for  the  tomb  of  Ariosto,  trans- 
forred  to  the  public  library  by  the 
French  in  1 801 ;  and  for  the  fine  paint- 
ings of  the  School  of  Ferrara  which  it 
still  retains. 

The  most  remarkable  of  these  are 
Christ  on  the  Cross,  with  St  John  and 
other  Saints,  by  Do9»o  Doing  the 
Martyrdom  of  St  Catherine,  by  Sear- 
aeUino,  one  of  his  finest  works ;  and  a 
Circumcision,  by  Luea  Longld^  of  Ra- 
venna. The  four  Doctors  of  the  church, 
by  Gimaeppe  Cremaneri  (  G.  Calctti),  are 
much  praised  by  Lanzi,  who  applies 
the  epithet  **  maraviglioso  **  to  his  grand 
•nd  expressive  figure  of  St.  Marl^  and 
estols  the  execution  of  the  books,  whose 
truth  and  nature  gained  for  the  artist 
the  title  of  the  ««  Painter  of  Books." 
On  the  ceiling  of  the  vestibule  of  the 
refectory,  is  the  celebrated  painting  of 
Paradise,  with  the  choir  of  angels,  by 
Doato  Doiti,  Ariosto  was  so  ena- 
moured of  this  work,  that  he  requested 
Dossi  to  introduce  his  portrait,  being 
desirous,  he  said,  of  securing  a  place 
in  that  paradise,  since  he  was  not  very 
sure  of  reaching  the  other.  The  poet 
was  accordingly  introduced,  and  his 
portrait  is  seen  between  the  figures  of 
St  Sebastian  and  St.  Catherine.  About 
the  middle  of  the  last  century,  the  bust  i 
which  gurmounted  the  tomb  of  Ariosto  1 


was  struck  by  lightning,  and  a  crown 
of  iron  laurels  which  surrounded  it 
was  melted  away ;  an  incident  which 
Lord  Byron  has  happily  embodied  in 
his  well-known  stanza :  — 

**  The  lightning  rent  Atom  Ariosto*t  biut 
Tlie  iron  crown  of  laurel's  mimic'd  leares : 
Nor  was  the  omiuout  element  unjust, 
For  the  true  laurel-wreath  which  Glory 

weaves 
Is  of  the  tree  no  bolt  of  thunder  cleaves. 
And  the  false  semt>lance  Imt  disgraced  his 

brow ; 
Yet  still,  if  fondly  Superstition  grieves. 
Know,  that  the  lightning  sanctities  below 
Whate'er  it  strikes  |— yon  head  is  doubly  sa- 
cred now." 

7%e  Church  of  S.  Pooh,  the  last 
public  building  in  Ferrara  which  con* 
tained  a  work  by  the  rare  master 
Ercoie  Grandi,  is  remarkable  for  one 
of  the  masterpieces  of  Scar$€tlino,  the 
Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  A  Nati- 
vity, and  the  ceiling  of  one  of  the  side 
chapels,  are  by  the  same  master.  The 
choir  was  painted  by  Scaraettino  and 
Bonone,  The  Resurrection  b  by  BoM'^ 
tinino.  Two  painters  of  this  school 
are  buried  here,  Giambattista  Dossi, 
and  Bastaruolo,  who  perished  while 
bathing  in  the  Po.  Another  tomb  in 
this  church  records  the  name  of  An- 
tonio Montecatino,  the  friend  and 
minister  of  Duke  Alfonso,  better 
known  as  a  professor  of  the  Peripatetic 
pliilos<^hy.  His  bust,  which  is  much 
admired,  is  by  AlcMsandro  VtceiUinL 

7[%e  Chmni  of  San  Donunico  is  re« 
markable  for  the  statues  on  its  fii9ade 
by  Andrea  Ferreri,  and  for  some  in- 
teresting works  of  Garofalo  and  Carlo 
Bonone.  The  dead  man  raised  by  a 
piece  of  the  true  cross,  and  the  Mar- 
tyrdom of  S.  Pietro  di  Rosini  are  by 
Garofalo;  the  S.  Domenico  and  & 
Thomas  Aquinas  are  by  Carlo  Bonone, 
The  adjoining  convent  was  once  fo- 
mous  for  its  Library,  bequeathed  to 
it  by  the  celebrated  Celio  Calcagnini, 
**  a  poet,  scholar,  antiquarian,  moralist, 
professor,  ambassador,  wit,  and  astro- 
nomer ;  one  of  the  first  who  main- 
tained the  earth*s  movement  round  the 
sun;  whose  praises  have  befttv  soxv^ 
by  Ariosto,  his  feWow  VrtLN^Wt  m 
Hungary,  in  the  tuiU  ot  Cax^'caX 


^K  'Mlum 


itoinirS.~-7snnAnA.^ — Churefie*, 


-  tSect  ft 


d'Esk 


The 


mbEt    of. 


'•olumu  amounled  to  3^84, 
oftfaem  are  nuw  duperBed.  Calcag- 
ilint  also  bequeathed  fiftygoldeatirowiis 
for  the  repairs  of  Lhe  library,  and  to 
fiimisli  tlie  cbairs,  benclies,  mid  dulis 
■       '  "      Falery.     "         "      ■ 


li  saJDts,  by  Garufala,  i 
1  by  some  to  have  been  gib. 
quted  vitb  the  aasistotice  of  Raphael 
^  Guatdian  Angel  a  by  Carbi  Bo 
iWH;  the  lUsurrection  a  attribulei 
1^  aome  to  Titian^  by  others  lo  Gaxo 
fihi  the  St  Andrew  is  by  PaaeUi 
wdthereuafiucstatucofSt.  Nicho 
Ul  of  Tolentioo,  by  jtl/oaao  Lueibardo. 

In  the  rdecloiy  is  a  grand  allegorical 
picture  by  Ganfalo,  representiug  tbi 
viefvy.  of  the  Nev  'I'eUaiaent  ovei 
tile,  btd,  tlie  eeremoni^  of  the  Moaaii 
I«ir  batng  contruted  with  the  bacia- 
sienCs  of  tbe  New  Law. 

^  TSk.  Ch«rch  of  tlH    T/tiatiHtr  (tfo 

Jiiuftai)  contains  a  large  punting  of 
Ibe   FioBeBUtion   in  the  Temple  by 

Quamno,  and  a  RiKiurectiDn,  and  a 

fia.  Gaetano  by  C&atda. 

".  7:1a  Omrch  of  lite  Capuchin  CouBciU 
baa  some  fine  paintings:  the  Virgin 

Tbroned,  with  saints ;  a  nmlUt  sub- 
jest,  with    Capuchin   nuns,   both   b) 

Scarv^iiu)!     S.    Chrlsbjpher    and    & 

Mtonio    Abate,    S.    Dameaico,   anil 

S.  Fmocis,  in  the  sacrUty,  by  Baaone. 

ibe  small  statue  of  thu  Conception  h 

E?»^  murcA   oj-  S.  Giargia  is  ctle- 


brated  as  the  loene  of  the  General 
Council  hold  at  Fcrrara  by  Pope  Eu- 
genius  IV., in  1438,fiirlhc  purpoaeuf 
offeciiug  ■  union  between  the  Greek 
and  Idtin  churches,  and  at  which  tha 
Emperor  John  FaleoIoguB  was  piesenL 
Even  at  that  period  tha  atmoBphere  of 
P'errsra  was  tainted  by  malaria,  for  it 
i-t  recorded  that  the  council  wan  re- 
moted  to  Florence,  in  consequence  of 
the  unhealthy  climate  of  this  city. 

TliMChwrth.oftheCampoSanla.v'iiOie 
line  Archileotursis  attributed  to  Sanso- 
vino,  is  decorated  internally  witli  the 
finest  sculpture)  of  that  celebrated  ar-. 
tist.  The  twelve  chapels  are  remark- 
able for  as  many  paintings  of  the  My- 
Btcriei  by  Niceoli  RotulH,  classed, 
doubtfully,  among  the  Fetrarese  school 
by  Lanii,  who  toentiona  tliose  works 
as  imiutions  of  the  style  of  Garo&lo, 
BagnaoaTsllo,  and  others.  The  Na- 
tivity is  by  Dielai;  S.  Bruno  praying, 
and  the  Marriage  of  Cana  are  by  Carle 
Bloom,  the  S.  Christopher.by  Auria-- 

praise  by  Lanii ;  "  Oie  rappresenlo 
igniidi,  como  nel  gran  S.  Cristotiuui 
della  CertosB,  ai  attenne  a  Micbelan- 
giolo ; "  the  Descent  of  tliB  Holy 
Ghost,  and  the  Deposition  irom  the 
Cross  are  by  Baatamolo ,  the  S.  Bruno 
is  by  Sairtelliiio  1  the  Last  Supper,  by 
CignanAi:  and  the  Beheading  of  John 
the  Baptist,  by  Faroliiu.  The  Campo 
Santo  was  fbrraeriy  the  Certosa  Con. 
vent,  which  was  said  to  occupy  the 
same  space  as  the  city  of  Mirsndola. 
The  cloisters  are  now  covered  with 
statues,  bas-reliefs,  and  sepulchral 
monuments.  Among  the  tombs  arc 
those  of  Borso  d'Este,  first  Duke  of. 
Ferrara,  the  founder  of  the  convent  i 
the  Duke  Venanilono  Varano  and  his 
wifcr  by  EinaJdini ;  Lilio  Giraldi,  the. 
mythologist,  removed  from  the  cathe- 
dral;  the  wife  of  Count  Leopoldo 
Cicognara,  in  alabaster  ;  ,lhe  Abate 
Bernardino  Barbnl^jo,  or  Barbojrj, 
smd  lo  have  been  the  preceptor  oE 
Ariosto;  &c 

n«  C&vrch  of  Geiu  has  a  picture  of 
tlie  three  Japanese  Martyrs,  by  Paro- 
Uni  i  and  a  eei^B  pouted  by  Di^ai. 


Papal  SUUeiJ^  ROt7t£  S.-**-fr£&BARA« —  GaUery  of  Pictures.    19. 


In  the  choir  is  the  mauaoleufa  ef  the 
Duchess  Barbara  of  Austria,  wife  of 
Alfonso  II.»  so  well  known  by  the 
eloquent  eulogies  of  Tasso. 

Tk»  Church  of  the  Convntt  of  Corpug 
Domumi  contains  several  tombs  of  the 
D*£ste  family ;  and  that  of  Lucresia 
Borgia  is  said  to  be  among  them,  but 
there  is  no  inscr^ition  or  authority  for 
the  statement. 

Tht  Castief  formerly  the  Ducal  Pa- 
lace, now  the  residence  of  the  Car- 
dinal Legate,  surrounded  by  its  ample 
moat,  and  furnished  with  towers  and 
bridges,  carries  the  imagination  back 
to  the  fortunes  of  Ferrara  during  the 
middle  ages.  It  stands,  says  Forsyth, 
**  moated  and  flanked  with  towers^  in 
the  heart  of  the  subjugated  town,  like 
a  tyrant  intrenched  among  slaves,  and 
recalls  to  a  stranger  that  gloomy  period 
described  by  Dante  :  -«4 

"*  Che  le  terre  d*it«lbi  tutte  ptene 

Son  di  tirsoni ;  ed  un  Marcel  diventa 
Ognl  Tinan  che  parieggiando  viene." 

Purg.  Tl.  124. 

It  is  a  huge,  square  building,  de- 
fSendcd  at  the  angles  by  fbur  large 
towers;  it  retains  few  traces  of  the 
ducal  fiimily,  and  wears  an  air  of  me- 
lancholy, in  accordance  with  the  de- 
serted aspect  of  the  city.  Its  apart- 
ments were  formerly  decorated  by  the 
first  masters  of  the  Ferrarese  school, 
but  they  have  entirely  disappeared, 
excepting  on  the  ceilings  of  the  ante- 
chamber and  the  saloon  of  Aurora, 
which  have  preserved  tlieir  paintings 
by  Dotto  Dosii,  In  the  dungeons  of 
this  castle,  Farisina  and  her  guilty 
lover  suflTered  execution,  llie  outlines 
of  that  drcodful  tragedy  have  been 
made  fiimiliar  to  the  Fnglish  reader 
by  the  beautiful  {loem  of  Ixnrd  Byron, 
to  whom  the  subject  was  suggested 
by  a  panage  in  Gibbon.  A  more 
complete  account,  liowuvcr,  is  found 
in  the  learned  Dr.  Frizzi's  History  of 
Ferrara,  from  which  the  following  is 
an  extract,  descriptive  of  the  closing 
catastrophe  :  — **  It  was,  then,  in  the 
priioKs  of  the  ca&tle,  mnd  exactly  in 
Xham^ightiiilduageoiiw  which  are  seen 


at  this- day  beneath  the  chamber  called 
the  Aurora,  at  the  foot  of  the  Lion's 
tower,  at  the  top  of  the  street  Gio-: 
vecca,  that,  on  the  night  of  the  21st  of 
May,  were  beheaded,  first,  Ugo,  and: 
afterwards  Farisina.     Zoese,  he  that 
accused  her,  conducted  the  latter  under 
his  arm  to  the  place  of  punishment.. 
She,  all  along,  fencied  that  she  was  to; 
be  thrown  into  a  pit,  and  asked  at 
every  step,  whether  ^e  was  yet  oome> 
to  the  spot?    She  was  told' that  her 
punishment  was  the  axe.  She  inquired, 
what  was  become  of  Ugo,  and  received 
for  answer,  that  he  was  already  dead ;; 
at  the  which,  sighing  grievously,  she' 
exclaimed,  *Now,  then,.  I -wish  not. 
myself  to  Jive; '  and,- being  come  to: 
the  block,  she  stripped  herself  with 
her  own  hands  of  all  her  ornaments,, 
and,  wrapping  a  cloth  round  her  head,, 
submitted  to  the  fatal  stroke,  which 
terminated  the  cruel  scene.    The  same 
was  done  with  Rangooi,  who,  together, 
with  the  others,  according  to  two  ca* 
lenders  in  the  library  of  St.  Francesco^ 
was  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  that' 
convent.** 

GaUenf  of  Pictures.  This  gallery, 
formerly  in  the  Falazzo  del  Magis- 
trate, has  recently  been  transferred  to 
the  **■  Pinacotheca  **  in  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  palaces  of  Ferrara,  which 
has  been  purchased  to  receive  it.  It 
contains  many  excellent  works  by  the 
leading  painters  of  the  school  of  Fer- 
rara. Among  them  are  the  following : 
—  Garofah,  the  Agony  in  the  Garden, 
the  Resurrection,  the  Descent  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  the  Twelve  Apostles; 
Doeao  Doui,  Noali's  Ark ;  Basiianinot 
the  Nativity,  Birth  of  the  Virgin,  the 
Assumption;  Coemi  (Cotimo  7\ira\ 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Maurelius ;  Orto». 
lano,  the  Nativity ;  Guercinoy  S.  Bruno; 
Agoetino  Caraccij  the  Fall  of  Manna. 

Pulazzo  del  Magistrato.  In  a  hall  of 
this  palace  the  Ariostenn  Academy, 
Accademia  degli  Ariosteij  holds  its  sit- 
tings ;  it  was  founded  on  the  Accademia 
degli  Intrepidij  one  of  the  first  poetical 
societies  of  1  taly ,  but  \1  V\tt&  tvo^n  V^^cookft, 
more  genoraWy  usc(u\  a%  a\\t(it«x>}  «xv\ 
scientific  instituUoiu    "t^ettc  >iXx>&  ^^^ 


RODTB  5.— FERBAHA. — PMui  Library.       fSect,  t 

1  rooms  wee  iliown  which  '  corrcrtodliyTiwsoiluringliiiicaptitity, 
and  liBs  tile  words  Law  Dm  at  the 
end.  Like  the  Orlando,  this  ii  ako 
remarkabU  for  its  cotrecliuns  and  can- 
celled pB3ua;es,  manj  of  which  are  ei. 
I  treoielf  cunoui,  and  worthy  of  being 
;  jiublislied.     'i'hete   are  likewise  nine 


weic   ocmpied    by  Cnlyln,  whe 


Ductless  Renfe.  under  the 
oune  of  Charles  Heppcville.    Itisim- 
potEible  to  visit  them  without  imagio- 
ing  the  meetings  at  wbicli  the  eterii 

trinea  ta  the  small  band  a(  disciples 
whom  the  IWiour  oi  hia  patroness  had 
sollected  together.    Among  these  were 

l^nnc  dc  I'arthenai,  Olympla  Afarats, 

^-larot,  Fnuiccsc.    "     ■" 
olber 
n  had  driven  irooi  beyond 

*■"&=  Alpi  

apartments  to  derive  iostruclion  froi 
the  great  tcKeher  of  Geneva. 

Tbe  Stadia  Pubblica  enjoys  some  ci 
lebrityai  u  school  of  medicine  aiid  ji 
risprudcnce.  It  contains  a  rich  cab 
net  of  medals,  and  a  collection  of 
Greek  and  Ilamaii  inscriptions  and 
antiquitiesi  among  which  is  the  eolos- 
■■l  sarcophagus  of  Aurelia  Eutychia, 
wi&  of  P.  Pubius.  But  iU  chief  in- 
lerest  is  the  Jh^tic  Lihrary,  coDtaining 
80/X»  volumes  and  900  MSS.,  among 
wbich  are  the  Greek  Parunpsests  of 
Gregory  Nazianxcn,  St.  Chrysastom, 
&D.  The  most  remarkable,  bowcver, 
and  (he  most,  valuable  of  all  its  tree- 
■urea,  are  the  manuscripts  of  Ariosto 
Wid  Tasso.  The  former  are  preserved 
in  an  apartment  where  the  poet's  arm- 
chair of  walnut-wood,  the  beautifully 
exeeated  medal  bearing  his  proBle. 
which  was  found  in  bis  tomb,  and  his 
bionie    inkstand     EUrmounted    by    a 

posited.  These  manuscripts  comprise 
a  copy  of  some  cantos  of  the  Orhmdo 
Fmioio,  covered  with  corrections,  and 
renurkable  also  for  the  following  me- 
morandum which  Alheri  begged  per- 
mission to  inscribe,  "  Vittorio  Alfieri 
vide  e  venerii  I S  Giugno,  1 7BS  ;  "  one 
of  the  Satires  ;  the  Comedy  of  I.a  Sco- 
lastiea;  and  some  highly  interesting 
letters,  among  which  is  one  fron 
^tian  to  Anosto.  The  mtmuEcrip 
'ifie  fftri/stilemme  ia  one  of  the  mos 
reeords  in  Ferraia ;  it  wa 


of   TasE 


by  the  side  of 
Epic  poets,  is  that  of  the  Paalor  Fido 
of  GuflrinL  Another  valuable  trea. 
sure,  but  of  a  different  character,  ia 
the  series  of  Choir  Booit,  formerly  be- 
longing to  the  Certosa;  theyare  filled 
with  beautiful  miniatures,  and  occupy 
eighteen  volumes.  There  is  also  a 
BiUe,  in  one  large  volume,  illustrated 


^mZcMi^ 


apparently  by  the  same  hand. 

Of  the  primed  books  in  the  library, 
we  may  mention  fifty-two  early  edi- 
tions of  Ariosto,  a  fine  coUection  of 
cinquecento  editions,  and  a  very  per- 
fect series  of  books  printed  at  Ferrara, 

which  the  printing  press  was  esta- 
blished. Signer  Antonelli,  one  of  the 
curators  of  this  library,  in  his  work  on 
the  Ferrarese  printers  of  the  fifteenth 
century,  states  that  during  the  first 
thirty  years  of  the  fifteenth  century 
upwards  of  100  editions  were  issued 
from  the  press  of  nine  printers  in  Fer. 
rara.  Among  the  most  famous  of  tbesa 
printers  was  C iambs ttista  Cuirini, 
from  whom  Aldus,  before  settling  at 
Venice,  received  instructions  in  print- 
ing Greek.  The  medical  traveller  will 
observe  here  with  great  curiosity  the 
celebrated  and  eiceedingly  rare  work 
of  Giambattisia  Canani,  "  MuSEulo- 
rum  humani  corporis  picturata  dis- 
sectio,"  without  date,  but  evidently 
referrible  to  the  middle  of  the  siitcenth 

In  one  of  the  rooms  of  this  library 

(rai'ij  0/  Ferrarat  Aulhori,  from  the 
carliea[  period  down  to  Cicognara  and 
Monti.  In  another,  are  eighteen  Pur- 
traili  of  Ferrnreic  CardinuU,  the  most 


JPapal  States.']   boute  3.— fbrrara. —  Tasso's  /V^ 


2S 


interesting  of  wbidi,  from  his  connec- 
tion with  Ariosto,  is  that  of  Cardinal 
Ippolito  d*£ste,  in  '.whose  service  the 
great  poet  had  spent  so  many  painful 
and  unprofitable  years ; 

**  Aggiungi  che  dal  giogo 
Del  Cardinal  da  Este  <9preno  Aii.** 

In  a  third  room,  called  the  Sala 
^Ariosto^  is  his  Thmb,  brought  here 
by  the  French  from  the  church  of  S. 
Benedetto*  June  6. 1801,  the  anniver- 
sary of  the  poet*s  death.  The  mauso- 
leum and  decorations  are  in  the  worst 
style  of  French  taste.  The  inscrip- 
tions, recording  the  merits  of  Ariosto 
as  a  statesman  as  well  as  a  poet,  were 
written  by  Guarini.  The  library  is 
open  to  the  public  from  eight  to  twelve, 
mnd  ftt>m  three  to  four.  The  modern 
additions  to  its  collections  are  so 
cramped  by  want  of  funds,  that  it  does 
not  keep  pace  with  the  progress  of  the 
times;  but  it  has  received  several 
valuable  accessions  from  the  munifi- 
cence of  its  citizens. 

The  Casa  tTAriotto  is  marked  by 
an  inscription  composed  by  the  great 
poet  himself:  — 

**  Fanra  ted  apta  mihi,  sed  nulll  dbnoxia,  sed 
non 
Sordida,  paita  meo  sed  tamen  aere  domus." 

Above  it,  is  the  following,  placed  there 
by  his  favourite  son  and  biographer, 
Virgilio :  — 

**  Sic  domua  haK  Ariosta 
PropitiM  habeat  deot,  oUm  ut  Pindarica.** 

Ariosto  is  said  to  have  inhabited  this 
bouse  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life, 
and  when  some  visitor  expressed  sur- 
prise that  one  who  had  described  so 
many  palaces  had  not  a  finer  house  for 
himself^  he  replied  that  the  palaces  he 
built  in  verse  coat  him  nothing.  After 
his  death,  nearly  all  the  well-known 
characteristics  of  the  house,  described 
with  so  much  interest  by  Ariosto  him- 
self, were  destroyed  by  its  subsequent 
proprietors.  In  1811,  Count  Girolamo 
Cicognara,  when  Podesta,  induced  the 
town  council  to  purchase  it,  as  one 
of  tho^e  national  monuments  which 
ought  to  be  befoad  the  caprice  of  in- 


dividuals. The  chamber  of  the'^i^ 
was  then  cleaned  and  carefiiUy  re*  - 
stored,  and  the  circumstance  was  re- 
corded in  the  following  .  inscription 
placed  under  his  bust :  Lodovico  ArioHo 
in.  quesia  camera  terisse  e  queeta  casa  da 
lui  abitata  edified,  la  quale  CCLXXX 
anni  dopo  la  morte  del  divino  poeta  fu 
dal  eonte  Girolamo  Cicognara  Podeeti 
CO*  danari  del  comune  compra  e  ristau* 
rata,  perchi  alia  venerazione  deUe  genii 
durat$e. 

The  Ctua  degli  Ariosii,  in  which  the 
poet  was  educated,  is  still  preserved^ 
and  is  situated  near  the  church  of  Sta. 
Maria  di  Bocche.  He  lived  there  for 
the  purpose  of  pursuing  his  legal 
studies  under  the  superintendence  of 
his  paternal  uncles ;  but  he  soon  gave 
up  law  for  the  more  congenial  study 
of  poetry  and  romance.  It  was  in  one 
of  the  chambers  of  this  residence  that 
Ariosto,  with  his  brothers  and  sister^ 
performed  the  Fable  of  Thisbe,  and 
other  comic  pieces  of  his  own  com- 
positions. The  apartment  is  still  shown» 
and  is  well  adapted  for  such  represen- 
tations. On  the  death  of  his  father, 
the  poet  removed  from  this  house  to 
the  one  already  described. 

The  Casa  Guarini,  still  inhabited 
by  the  Marquises  of  that  name,  recalls 
the  name  of  the  author  of  the  Pastor 
Fido,  whose  bust  decorates  the  hall. 
On  the  comer  of  the  house  is  this 
inscription :  Herculis  et  Musarum  com* 
merciofavete  Unguis  et  animis. 

The  Piazza  Grande,  now  the  Piazza 
d* Ariosto,  formerly  contained  a'  statue 
of  Pope  Alexander  VII. ;  but  this  was 
removed  by  the  republicans  of  1786  to 
make  room  for  one  of  Napoleon,  whose 
name  the  Piazza  bore  until  the  peace 
of  1814,  when  both  the  statue  and  the 
title  gave  way  to  those  of  the  "  Italian 
Homer.'* 

The  greatest  object  of  interest  in 
Ferrara  is  the  cell  in  the  hospital  of 
St.  Anna,  shown  as  the  Prison  of  Tasso. 
Over  the  door  is  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, placed  there  by  General  MioUis  *. 
Rispettate,  o  Porteri,  la  cclebrU^  dV 
questa  stanza^  dove  Torquato  Ta%*o 
linfmno    piu    di     tristexia    che     deli- 


r^     -irrti  ad  litanta  dn 


~  ratio's  Pth 


tSect.t 


-hrrti  ad  itianta  deBa  cilta  di  Bergm 
ntta'ome  vL  Luglio,  1586.  It  in  1 
low  tlic  {{round  floor,  and  m  lighted 
by  H  guted  window  from  the  ydrd  \ 
its  site  is  about  nine  pace*  by  sir  aai 
■bout  seven  feci  high.  "  The  bed- 
Blend,  ?o  they  (eTl,  has  b*en  cnrriodoff 
pieoeme.il,  and  the  door  half  cut  away, 
by  the  deroliou  of  (hose  whom  '  the 
TETM  and  prose'  of  the  prisoner  haite 
■brought  to  Ferraro.  The  poet  wai 
conlinKl  in  this  room  from  the  middle 
of  March  1579,  to   December   35BO, 


apartment,  much 
use  hb  own  oxprEsiions, 
pbilosophise  and  walk  abouc.  ine 
inscription  is  incorrect  as  to  the  imme- 
^te  cause  of  his  enlargement,  which 
Was  promised  to  the  city  of  Bergamo, 
bol  was  carried  into  efi^ct  at  the  iuter- 
oCMiaa  oif  Don  Vincenio  Ooniaga, 
PrinBeofMflntuB.''~ffoiSoK«.  Few 
queirtions'have  been  more  debated  than 
eat  poet's  imprison- 


inity,  others  th, 


gthat 


Then  it  was  that  Tatso  —after  having- 
suHered  these  hardships  for  some  time, 
seeing  himself  constantly  discounM 
nancodbythe  Duheand  theprincene.. 
abandoned  hy  bis  friends,  and  derided 
by  his  enemies — eoutd  no  longer 
tain  himself  within  the  bounds  of 
deration,  but  giving  vent  to  his  cboler, 
publicly  broke  forth  into  the  mo 
jurioua  enptossions  imaginable,  botfe 
against  the  Duke  and  all  the  house  of 
Eate,  cursing  his  past  service,  an  " 
tractinjf  all  the  praises  he  had 
given  m  his  verses  to  those  princes, 
or  to  any  individual  connected 
(hem,  declaring  that  they  were 
_  .,  —  gangofpollrQon^ing^ate^,  and  Bi 
could  drels  (poltroni,  ingrali,  c  ribi 
For  this  offence  he  was  arrested, 
ducted  to  the  hospital  of  St.  Anna, 
and  confined  In  a  soliury  coll  aa  a 
madman.'*  His  own  correspondence 
furnishes    the    best   evidence  of   the 

mort  the  first  year  of  his  imprison- 
ment he  endured  nearly  all  the  hor- 
rors of  B  solitary  cell,  and  received 
from  his  gaoler,  Agostino  Mosti,  al- 
though himself  a  poet,  every  kind  of 
cruelty  «  ogni  sorte  di  rigore  ed  inu- 

"  On  the  walls  of  Tasso^  prison 
leither  are  the  names  of  Lord  Byron,  Casimir 
Delavigne,  and  Lsmartine's  verses  on 
Tasso,  written  in  pencil  and  dread- 
fully mangled  by  the  English  poet, 
who  must  have  been  little  capable  of 
appreciating  the  harmony  of  the  verses 


[withstanding  these  poeli. 
Targaato 


wss, 


iffbrings  were  aggravated  by 
tne capricious  tyranny  of  Alfonso.  His 
biographer,  the  Abate  Serassi,  has  left 
it  without  doubt  that  the  first  cause 
of  tbe  poet's  poniahment  was  his  desire 
to  be  occasionally,  or  altogether,  free  puci-  r 
from  his  servitude  at  the  court  of  Al- 1  cal  authi 
fbnio.  In  1S7S,  Tasso  resolved  to  visit  I  /"</'™«"  o"a  pr 
Rome,  itad  ei^oy  the  indnlgence  of  ^£^0  at  the  entrance,  anuthei 
the  ju^ilaa;  "andthis  error,"  says  the  lind  the  repairs  of  thb  pretended 
Abie,  "  increa^ng  the  au^icion  al-  J  prison,  in  ISIS,  by  the  prefect  of  the 
ready  entertained,  tbat  he  was  in  search  '  department,  it  is  impos^ble  to  reco^ 
ofanother  service,  was  the  origin  of  his  j  niie  the  real  prison  of  Tasso  in  the 
DiiBfartunes.  Onliis  retnrnlo  Ferrara,  \  kind  of  hole  that  is  shown  as  such, 
the  Duke  refused  to  admit  him  to  an  ,  How  can  any  one  for  a  moment  aup- 
audience,  and  he  was  repulsed  from  ;  pose  that  Tasso  could  live  in  such  a 
the  houses  of  all  the  dependants  of  the  place  for  seven  years  and  two  months, 
;  anH  BOt'one  of  the  promises  revise  bis  poem  there,  and'compose 
rfie  Cardinal  Afbano  had  oi>-  his  difterenC  ^ilnsophical  dialogues 
Sir  hSitt  tltire  carried  iutocfiM.  I'm  imitafemot  "Plato  t     1  liad  an  op- 


Pt^  Staiet.2  ROUTS  8. -^1;heatrx.— citadel. 


izs 


portuiiitv  of  consulting  several  well- 
informea  gentlemen  of  Ferrara  on  this 
Bul^eet,  and   I  aseertained  that  not 
one  of  them  believed  this  tradition, 
which  is  equally  contradicted  by  his- 
torical &cts  and  local  appearances. 
.^Tbere  was  enough  in  Tasso*s  &te  to 
^^^|e  our  compassion,   without  the 
^ttw  sufierings  he  must  have  ex- 
ceed in  this  dungeon.     Alfonso's 
iiidtude  was  sufficiently  painfiil: 

Mfht  on  the  part  of  Louis  XIV. 
^tnied  the  death  of  Racine,  and 
/ith  such  spirits,  mental  a£9ictions 
4re  much  more  keenly  felt  than  bodily 
pains.     Madame  de  Stael,  who  was 
■  ever  inclined  to  commiserate  the  mis- 
fortunes of  genius,  was  not  misled  by 
the  legend  of  the  prison  of  Ferrara ; 
Goethe,  according  to  the  statement  of 
a  sagacious  traveller,  maintains  that 
the  prison  of  Tasso  is  an  idle  tale,  and 
that  he  had  made  extensive  researches 
on  the  subject.*'-—  Falay. 

Sir  John  Hobhouse,  in  reference  to 
the  inscription  on  the  cell,  says  that 
"  Common  tradition  had  long  before 
assigned  the  cell  to  Tasso :  it  was  as- 
suredly <me  of  the  prisons  of  the  hos- 
pital ;  and  in  one  of  those  prisons  we 
know  that  Tasso  was  confined.  Those/* 
he  adds,  "  who  indulge  in  the  dreams 
of  earthly  retribution,  will  observe  that 
the  cruelty  of  Alfonso  was  not  left 
without  its  recompense,  even  in  his 
own  person.  He  survived  the  affec- 
tion of  his  subjects  and  of  his  depend- 
ants, who  deserted  him  at  his  death  ; 
and  suffered  his  body  to  be  interred 
without  princely  or  decent  honours. 
His  last  wishes  were  neglected ;  his 
testament  cancelled.  His  kinsman, 
D<Hi  Caesar,  shrank  from  the  excom- 
munication of  the  Vatican,  and,  after 


'  Of  petty  power  hnpeird,  of  those  who  wore 
The  wreath  which  Dante's  brow  alone  bad 
worn  before 

And  Tasso  is  their  glory  and  their  shame-; 
Hark  to  his  strain !  and  then  survey  his  cell! 
And  see  how  dearly  eam'd  Torquato*s  fame. 
And  where  Alfonso  bade  his  poet  dwell : 
The  miserable  deq)ot  could  not  quell 
The  insulted  mind  he  sought  to  quench 

and  blend 
With  the  surrounding  maniacs,  in  the  hen 
Where  hehadplunged  it.  Glory  without  end 
Scatter*d  the  clouds  away— and  on  that  name 

attend 

The  tears  and  praises  of  all  time ;  while  thine 
Would  rot  in  its  oblivion  -  in  the  sink 
Of  worthless  dust,  which  from  thy  boasted 

line 
Is  shaken  Into  nothing ;  but  the  link 
Thou  formest  in  his  fortunes  bids  us  think 
Of  tliy  poor  malice,  naming  thee  with 

scorn  — 
Alfonso  I  how  thy  ducal  pageants  shrink 
From  thee !  if  in  another  station  bom. 
Scarce  fit  to  be  the  slave  of  him  thou  raad'st 

to  mourn."  Childe  Harold.  ^ 

The  Theatre  of  Ferrara  is  reputed 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  the  States  of 
the  Church.  The  first  in  Italy  is  said 
to  have  been  opened  here. 

The  Citadely  which  has  recently  be- 
come so  celebrated  in  Austrian  diplo- 
macy, was  founded  in  1211.  After 
Pope  Clement  VIII.  had  seized  the 
principality  as  a  fief  which  had  lapsed 
for  want  of  heirs,  in  1 598,  it  was  en- 
tirely rebuilt ;  an  expedient  so  suc- 
cessfully adopted  at  Perugia  and  An- 
cona,  to  resist  the  malcontents  likely 
to  rebel  against  the  usurpations  of  the 
Holy  See.  It  was  finished  by  Paul 
V.  By  the  treaty  of  Vienna,  Austria 
acquired  the  right  of  occupying  this 
citadel,  and  the  small  nei^^hbouring 
fortress  of  Comacchio.  In  the  be- 
ginning of  1847,  before  the  memorable 
increase  of  the  garrison  for  the  sup- 
posed purpose  of  invading  the  Papal 
States,  the  number  of  Austrian  sol- 
a  short  struggle,  or  rather  suspense,  ■  diers  was  only  1400,  and  a  large  por- 
Ferrara  passed  away  for  ever  from  the  tion  of  those  were  merely  employed 
duminion  of  the  house  of  Este." 

thy  wide  and  grass-grown 


Ferrara  I    in 
'treets, 

^Vh<l«c  iyinmctry  was  not  for  solitude. 
There  socnii  an  'twere  a  curso  upon  the  scats 
Of  former  snvcreigiM,  and  the  antique  brood 


as  workmen  in  reconstructing  two 
bastions  which  wore  blown  up  by  the 
French  on  evacuating  the  place,  and 
remained  for  years  in  a  stale  of  ruin. 
Events,  however,  soon  occurred  which 
Of  Eico  which  for  many  an  age  made  good  changed  the  cnl'lTC  c\\aTCic\.QT  o'^  Wl'^ 
It.  s^trength  wiUnu  thy  walJ*,  snd  ^^^a,  of  ,  Austrian  OCCUVatlon,  aTVi\  \tvvo\Ne\\xv 

ntnuicefyrBnt,  a$  the chMging mood       \\  their  issuo  resuUs,  "vVvkcVv  al  VXv^  XlvBSv^ 


SOVTK  8. — VmitARA.— CITASBL,  t^^Ck  Si 


■nrerc  coiuiderHl  of  rital  importHnce  tn 
P  *lie  pMcc  of  Europe.  Without  enter- 
ing inio  minute  detaitt,  we  dir;  briefly 
■tale  that  in  the  ipringof  184T,  a  grave 
diieiwaion  ino$e  lietveen  AiiMria  and 
Uw  holy  Bee,  on  the  questioo  of  Jccid- 
iog  whether,  in  rirtue  cfthelrraliesof 
1815,  the  imperial  troops  liiul  s  right 
tooceupy  the  city  ofFerrsm,  orou^t 
to  GonRne  themselves  to  (he  occupa- 
tion of  the  eiladel.  By  the  medinlion 
^•f  France,  an  arrangeuieiit  was  come 
a,  in  the  month  of  August  following, 

w  which  Austria,  under  all  rc&ervn- 
a  of  her  rights  for  the  future,  con- 
,  ited  to  withdraw  her  troops  lempo- 
•rily  from  the  interior  of  llie  city,  on 
■"  ■  'lat  the  papal  government 
to  the  imperial  tri>ops 
-tered  in  the  citadel  the  free  eier- 
e  of  their  military  fiincdoni,  and 
■uch  treatment  m  would  respond  to 
the  relationg  of  friendship  existing  at 
that  period  between  the  Court  of 
Vienna  and  the  sovereign  pontiff'. 
After  the  commencemeat  of  the  Lo^. 
bud  war,  the '  Austrian  garrison  of 
Fetrua  having  reason  to  complain  of 
the  hostile  spirit  which  the  population 
of  Ferrara  continually  mantfeiited  to- 

were  concluded  between  Austria  and 
the  holy  see,  for  the  purpose  of  main- 
taining in  force  the  arrangement  of 
August,  1847.  Thefint  ofthcKewBs 
mgned  in  July,  1S4S,  between  the 
Austrian  General  Prince  de  Lichten-  ^ 
Atein  and  Count  Lovacohi,  prolegatc 
of  Bologna,  and  some  months  later  it ' 
mis  eonUrmed  and  amplified  by  stipu-  I 
lations  agreed  upon  at  Rovigo  be- 
tween General  Wclden  and  the  Car- 
dinal Legate  of  his  Holiness.     It  is  ' 

oolliuanB  which  subsequently  toolL . 
place  between  the  Austrian  garrison 
Bid  the  populatiim  of  Ferrara,  □□ 
»bom  the  garrison  were  dependent 
fir  their  supplies.  Marshal  Radctili, ' 
Itoking  on  these  collisions  as  a  >ys-  I 

■art/   ibe   conventions    we     have   just ' 
-y/oieii  of,  charged  Afarshai   HajTiflu  ', 


1 


to  demand  satisfaction  rrom  the  local 
authorities.  In  order  lo  support  h 
representations  with  energy.  Monhal 
Hsynau  crossed  the  Fo  at  several 
'  points  with  a  force  of  lO/XX)  men,  and 
|anthel9th  February,  1849.  appeared 
'I  before  the  city,  and  demanded,  on  be- 
half of  the  Pope,  the  delivery  of  the 
city  gales  to  the  Imperial  troops,  and 
the  payment  ofS06,000  scud  i  within 
34  hours.  The  Cardinal  Archbishop 
and  other  eminent  ciliiens,  who  bad 
gone  to  Marshal  Hsynau  as  a  deputa- 
tion to  demand  a  further  d.  ' 
detained  as  hostages;  but  tt 
manded  was  at  length  paid,  through 
the  generosity  of  an  Knglish  resident; 
and  the  other  conditions  hating  been 
fuliilled,  the  Auotrians,  on  the  95th 
February,  evacuated  the  city  and  re- 
tired to  Polesella.  IuDecember,]849, 
the 'Austrian  garrison  in  the  citadel 
only  amounted  to  1000  men. 

Ferrara  is  one  of  the  eight  arcb- 
bisboprics  of  the  Papal  States ;  the 
bishopric  dates  from  *.  d.  GGI  ;  ita 
archbishopric  was  founded  by  Clement 
XII..  for  Bishop  Iluffo,  in  1735. 

[Boats  may  be  hired  at  Ferrara  for 
Venice,  s  voyage  of  twenty  hours. 
There  is  a  procaccio  twice  a  week  lo 
Bologna,  by  water.  Travcllera  may 
alio  proceed  by  the  canals  t(  ^ 
The    canals    from    Ferrari 


followi 


with    , 


many  others,  by  which  a  constai 
lercourse  is  maintained  with  the 
tral  towns  of  Northern  Italy  :  - 
cannl  called  the  P&  di  Fu/uho 
Irom  the  Porta  di  S.  Paolo  to  the 
Adriatic,  by  a  course  of  56  milei, 
skirting  the  northern  district  of  the 
Comacehio:  it  is  navigable  all  the 
year,  end  has  some  valuable  fisheries. 
The  Canale  di  Onto,  St)  miles  in 
length,  keeps  up  a  communication  be- 
tween Cento  and  Ferrara;  it  also 
leaves  from  the  Porta  di  S.  Paola 
From  the  Porta  di  a  Benedetto,  the 
Canale  FanfiUo  proceeds  to  Fonte 
di  Lagoscuro.  a  course  of  3  miles. 
From  the  Porta  di  S.  Giorgio,  the 
P&  di  iVfurara  leads  to  S.  Alberto  and 
Ptimaio,  0  o  ttis  kirvuvXc,  Wlmj,  Uuo 


Pepal  States.']    routes  4,  5. — ferrara  to  bologna.        25 

die  Po  di  Pkimaio  at  Ttagbetto,  a  on  the  road :  it  is  very  tolerable,  and 
eourse  of  20  miles  :  it  is  navigable  all 
the  year  by  vesseb  of  large  burden.] 


ROUTE  4. 

rxaiARA   TO   BOLOGNA,   BY   HALAL- 
BBRGO. 

Posts. 

U 
1 

1 

3i 


Ferrara  to  Malalbergo  - 
Malalbergo  to  Capo  d*Argine 
Capo  d^Argine  to  Bologna 


/juu  oit  tkB  Road,  U  Tedo;  MaM- 
bergOf  Posta. 

The  high  post-road,  which  has  su- 
perseded the  old  route  through  Cento. 
Oose  to  the  walls  of  Ferrara  the  canal 
eommunicating  with  the  Po  di  Pri- 
snaro  is  crossed,  and  the  road  pro- 
ceeds along  a  dead  flat,  remarkable  for 
Hs  fertility  and  cnltivation,  but  other- 
wise destitute  of  interest.  It  is  dif- 
ficult to  conceive  a  more  productive 
country  than  that  presented  by  this 
plain.  From  the  walls  of  Ferrara  to 
the  gates  of  Bologna,  it  is  covered 
with  hemp,  com,  rice-grounds  and 
meadow  lands ;  not  an  acre  is  left  un- 
cultivated. At  Gallo,  a  short  distance 
north  of  the  Reno,  the  line  of  separa- 
tion between  the  Legations  of  Ferrara 
and  Bologna  is  passed,  and  about  a 
mile  before  arriving  at  Malalbergo  the 
Reno  is  crossed  by  a  bridge. 

Malalbergo  is  a  place  of  consider- 
able activity  ;  and  as  the  traveller  ap- 
proaches Bologna,  he  cannot  &il  to  be 
struck  with  the  improved  aspect  of  the 
country ;  the  corn-fields,  the  maize 
plantations,  and  the  hemp  grounds, 
denote  the  extreme  fertility  of  the 
soil,  and  bespeak  a  careful  and  better 
system  of  husbandry.  The  cottages 
are  neat,  and  the  general  appearance 
of  the  people  indicates  prosperity  and 
industry.  Travellers  by  vetturino 
from  Verrmrs  to  Bo/ogOM  usually  make 
the  inn  called  //  2Vdo  the  baiting  piace 


moderate  in  its  charges. 

1^  Malalbergo  (Inn :  La  Posta). 

1  Capo  d'Argine. 

1  Bologna,  described  in  Route  6. 


ROUTE  5. 

FERBARA   TO   BOLOGKA,  BY   CEKTO  AND 
PIEVX. 

About  92  Italian  miles. 

This  was  formerly  the  principa 
line  of  communication  between  Fer- 
rara and  Bologna,  and  it  is  still  in- 
teresting on  account  of  its  passing 
through  the  birth-place  of  Guercino, 
which  all  lovers  of  art  will  consider 
worthy  of  a  pilgrimage.  At  a  short 
distance  from  Ferrara  it  leaves  the 
post  road,  at  Cassana,  and  proceeds 
by  Vigarano,  Mainarda,  Mirabella, 
S.  Agostino,  and  Corpo  di  Reno,  to 
Cento. 

Cento.  — This  interesting  and  pretty 
town  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name* 
from  an  ancient  settlement  of  fisher- 
men, who  were  led  to  fix  upon  this 
spot  by  the  great  number  of  craw-fish, 
for  which  the  neighbouring  waters 
were  celebrated.  They  are  said  to  have 
built  a  hundred  cottages  {cento  capan- 
nucce),  which  they  surrounded  with  a 
deep  foss ;  and  the  number  of  their  cot- 
tages thus  became  the  appellation  of  the 
town  which  subsequently  arose  upon 
their  site.  The  population  of  Cento, 
by  the  last  census,  is  4572  :  the  town 
was  formerly  celebrated  for  the  college 
of  S.  Biagio,  which  was  suppressed 
on  the  establishment  of  the  Italian 
kingdom ;  but  its  great  interest  arises 
from  its  being  the  birth-place  of  Guer- 
cino. The  cliurch  is  full  of  the  works 
of  this  great  artist;  and  bis  house, 
which  it  was  his  delight  to  cover  with 
his  paintings  is  still  preserved  without 
any  alteration  or  change,  save  what 
has  been  produced  by  time.  The  Casa 
di  Guercino  has  beeu  coirtcclX^  Vjctkcvr^ 
a  real  domestic  museum.  ""^  \tv\>^eX\\xNft 
chapel  is  an  admuaVAe  "^pvcX-ut^i  o^  Tuca 
pilgrims  praying  to  the  Virgin :  xXv^  ^^ 

c 


pitHtDG  destitution,  no   It's!  than  Iht-  tlicrc    rccuivc    nnd   regale,   ail    nnv 

fervour  of  these  pilgrims,  is  painted  t^uinla  Imnthcilo,  those  two  rardiilBli 

with  great  nainutcneii  of  detail  (even  who  hud  coniB  to  the  fair,  when  bia 

to  the  patches  oflhe  JeBst  noble  part  of  most    dibtinguiBlmd    pupils  served  at 

their  babilimeats),  without  in  any  way  tabic,   and  in  tba  evening  performed 

weakening  the  general  effect  oS  this  una  bella  eomnudia,  an  eitempoiiscd 

pathetic  eompoiition.      The  reiling  of  proverb  with  which  their  eminences 

one  room  preiients  a  series  of  hursei  were  enraptured.   Cbristinaof  Sweden 

group  uftwo  horsetii  anuther  horse  at  after  admiring  his  works,  tlmt  queen 

gross,  nothing  but  skin  and  bone    is  a  wished  to   touch   the  hand  that  had 

living  Sikeletnn  of  this  poor  animal.   A  produced  such  ditfi  iTaHVTi. 
rcniii  suckling  Cnpid  is  less  pleating        "  The  C/'ina  ltd  Rotario  is  called 

thun  tbe  rest,  despite  its  celebrity,  and  at  Cento  the  Cn/iris,  a  profane  title, 

the  merit  of  the  colouring:   Venus  is  partially  justified   by  its  appearance 

indeed  the  mother  of  Cupid,  but  not  and  the  arrangement  of  the  paintinga. 
his  nui'^e ;  the  Imaginalinii  will  only  '  Guercino  Is  not  less  resplendent  then 

admit  into  the  arts  the  things  which  than  at  home.      The  church  is  fnQ  of 

itself  has  reeeived  and  become  accui-  1 


med  t. 

"  Guercino  had  for  Cento  that  love 
of  locality  if  we  may  ao  say,  of  whieh 
Italian  painters  and  sculptors  have  in 

lie  pri'ferrEd  [esiding  in  his  native  town 

to  the  kings  uf  France  and  England  ; 
he  bad  Ills  scuola  there,  and  remained 
ill  the  town  till  driven  away  by  the 
war  between  Od<iardo  Farneae,  duke 
uf  Parino,  and  Pope  Urban  VIIL, 
J    Barbcrini,   nephew  of 


neral  of  tl 


ilihcal 


orked  at 

the  Virgin;  he  is  consequently  visible 
there  as  a  painter,  sculptor,  and  archi- 
tect, but  especially  as  a  Christian.  A 
chapel  founded  by  him  bears  his  name: 
he  bequeathed  a  legacy  for  the  Gele> 
bration  uf  mass  there,  and  left  a  gold 
chain  of  great  value  to  the  image  of 
the  Virgin  of  the  Rosary.    Tim  pious 

of  the  bist  ecntury,  liy  a  eustoile  of 
the  church  ;  a  double  sacrilege,  in  tli 
ttillpopuli 


leralod.". 


simple,  modest,  laborious  life,  whici 
inspifes  a  kind  of  respect.    T!i is  great 
artist,  really  born  a  painter,  tht  magi-    ' 
dan  of  painting  as  be  has  been  »ur- 


The  liiir  of  Cento,  formerly  twle- 
•  braied  throughout  the  provinee  and. 
lich  b  alluded  to  in  the  preceding 
tract,  is  still  observed  on  the  7ih  of 
■pl.™ber!  but  it  has  sadly  fallen  off 


nariuthle  m 


3  brother  t 


On  leaving  Cento,  the  road  crosses 

'       "  a  little  dislsnce  beyond 

Pine  di  CciUa,  a  village  of 

,    4000   souls,    surrounded    with    walls, 

d  formerly  celebrated  for  its  miraou- 

us  cruciiiii  and  the  Collefie  of  Sto. 

aria  Assunla,  suppressed  at  the  es- 

;'beloved  by  his  master   Gen- '  tahlishment  of  the  Italian  King<tom. 

nori,   praised    and    recammendert   by  '  It  possesses  another  oljecl  of  ititerest 

l^ovico  Caracci,  he  seems  to  have^  for  tbe  lover  of  art,  the  fine  Awump- 

eacaped  the  enmity  too  frequent  among    tion  by  Guida,  (btming  theatlar  piece 

•rich  rivals.     T/ieijouse  of  Guercino  ii  I  of  the   ehun*.      This   noble  picture 

"<ji,  botvBvee,  deroiil  of  magniSeence:  |  was  tnAer  wntenoe  of  removal  at  the 

t  IS  eaty  to  conceive  that  he  might  |  Flench   invnaiovi   ol  'n'il  ■,  \ia\.  *ic 


Ptgpal  SUUet.'y     route  6. — ^modena  to  bologna. 


27 


people  rose  against  the  intended  rob- 
bei7»  and  effectually  prevented  it 
Close  to  Pieve  the  boundary  of  the 
Legation  of  Ferrara  is  passed,  and  we 
enter  that  of  Bologna. 

The  road  now  proceeds  through 
Castel  S.  Giorgio,  ascending  the  right 
bank  of  the  Reno,  to 

Bologna,  Route  6. 


ROUTE  6. 


MODENA   TO    BOLOGNA. 


Modena  to  Samoggia 
Samoggia  to  Bologna 


Posts. 

-n 

■  H 


Imns:  jSeono^^ia,  LaPosta;  Bologna^ 
San  Marco,  the  Svizzero,  II  Pellegrino, 
La  Pace,  Tre  Mauri. 

An  excellent  road,  perfectly  straight 
and  level  in  its  entire  course:  it  foims 
a  part  of  the  ancient  Via  JEmtflia, 

Soon  after  leaving  Modena  the  road 
crosses  the  Panaro  by  a  fine  modern 
bridge  at  iS'.  AmhTrogiOy  the  Modenese 
frontier  station,  which  travellers  re- 
turning from  the  Papal  States,  and  who 
must  consequently  undergo  the  vex- 
atious formalities  and  bribery  of  the 
custom-liouse,  are  not  likely  to  forget. 
The  Panaro  separates  the  Duchy  from 
the  States  of  the  Church ;  the  Papal 
fttHitier  station  and  custom-house  are 
at  CattelfrancOf  where  a  fee  to  the 
officials  is  also  necessary  to  prevent 
annoyance.  Castelfranco  is  considered 
by  Dr.  Cramer  to  agree  with  the  po- 
sition of  Forum  Galhrum,  the  scene  of 
several  important  actions  during  the 
siege  of  Modena,  and  particularly  of 
the  defeat  of  Antony  by  Hirtius  and 
Octavian,  after  the  rout  of  Pansa. 
Near  it  is  Forturbano,  a  fortress  built 
by  Urban  VI I  J.,  in  a  commanding 
position :  it  is  now  of  little  importance 
and  is  falling  into  ruin. 

1 4  Samoggia.  (  Jan,  La  Posta.)  A  vil- 
la|re  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same 
namfv  Mhoui  midway  between  Modena 
Mad  B^ogaa;  eonsidered  to  occupy  .' 


the  site  of  Ad  Medias,  one  of  the  sta- 
tions of  the  .^mylian  way.  Beyond 
Anzola  the  road  crosses  the  Lavino; 
and  a  little  farther  on,  the  Reno  is 
passed  by  a  long  stone  bridge.  At 
Crocetta  del  Trebbo,  a  short  distance 
from  the  road,  is  an  island  in  the  Reno, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  a 
third  broad,  which  Dr.  Cramer,  Ca- 
lindri  and  other  antiquaries  regard  as 
the  scene  of  the  meeting  of  the  second 
triumvirate,  A.U.C.  709. 

Monte  Guardia,  crowned  by  the 
famous  church  of  the  Madonna  di  San 
Luca,  is  a  conspicuous  object  from 
the  road  on  approaching  Bologna :  on 
the  \e\t,  beyond  the  Reno  Canal,  is 
the  Campo  Santo.  The  entrance  to 
the  city  is  highly  picturesque ;  the 
road  passes  through  an  open  and  finely- 
wooded  country,  diversified  by  mea- 
dows and  rich  pasture  grounds,  beyond 
which  the  hills  which  bound  the 
prospect  are  clothed  with  vegetation 
and  cultivated  to  their  summit. 

1^  Bologna.  [/niM.*  the  San  Marco, 
the  oldest  and  most  aristocratic ;  the 
staircase  is  covered  with  coats  of  arms 
recording  the  visits  of  emperors,  kings, 
and  princes,  and  the  book  contains  the 
names  of  most  of  our  own  nobility, 
who  express  satisfaction  at  the  ex- 
cellence and  comfort  of  the  establish- 
ment ;  Grande  Albergo  Svizzero,  with 
an  excellent  table-d'hotc,  and  a  fixed 
scale  of  prices,  which  are,  however, 
dear;  II  Pellegrino,  very  good,  and  not 
so  dear  as  the  Svizzero ;  La  Pace,  and 
I  Tre  Mauri,  both  good  vetturino  inns. 
The  Albergo  Svizzero  was  formerly 
the  palace  of  the  Company  of  the 
Drapers  (Stracciaiuoli),  and  was  built, 
'  according  to  tradition,  from  thedesigns 
,  of  Francesco  Francia, 

Bologna,  the  second  capital  of  the 
\  States  of  the  Church,  and  one  of  the 
most  ancient  cities  of  Italy,  is  pictu- 
resquely situated  at   the  foot  of  the 
lower  slopes  of  the    Apennines  in  a 
i  beautiful  and  fertile  plain  ;  it  \%  ^mt- 
,  rounded  by  a  V\ig\\  biicV  vjuW  V\XX\o>aX 
fortifications  from  five  \.o  s\tl  "wCA^*  vr. 
circuit ;  the  Savetia  wasVves  \\.s  n««^' 
and  the   Reno   cana\  ipabaca  \Vvto>^^ 

c  % 


BOCTB  6. BOLQCIfA. 


tSed 


(lie  cily.  It  U  [lie  capllnl  of  llio  most 
impoitBnt  Legation  uf  the  Holy  Sue, 
embracing  a  papiilBtion  of  322,33S 
KTuls,  and  I  luperRcinl  eilpnt  of  IGO  ' 
squire  Imgues.  Tlie  city  ■■  Iwu  milcK 
long  by  about  one  broad,  it  ii  divided 
into  liiur  quarters,  it  ttog  twelve  gates, 
«iid  a  population  ofTUfOO  inhabitanbt 
liythe  offieija"Rnccalta"ofl844,  It 
il  tbe  residence  of  lliu  Cardinal  Legate, 
tlie  Governor  of  the  Province;  the 
■eat  of  an  archbishopric,  and  one  of 
the  four  ApiJeal  Courts  of  the  Roman 
States,  cumiirising  witbin  its  jurisdic- 
tion ail  the  northern  districts.  It  ii 
one  of  those  interesting  provinoial  capi- 
tals which  no  country  but  Italy  pos- 
■eraea  in  such  abundance,  and  of  which 
the  Pap&l  States  have  so  large  a  share. 
With  its  rich  and  varied  colonnades, 
aftbrding  a  pleasant  shelter  from  the 
«un  and  rain,  with  well-paved  streets, 
nobie  institutions,  and  a  Rouriiihing, ' 
intelligent  and  learned  population,  ii 
rivals  Rome  in  all  except  elsasicsl  and 
teligious  interest,  and  the  eitent  of 
tti  miueiinis.  It  would  do  honour  to 
■ny  country  in  Europe  as  its  tnelro- 
polis;  and  Che  inhabitants  still  cherish 
HI  their  love  of  freedom  the  recolleo- 
tions  inspired  by  its  ancient  motto, 
"  Libenas. "  Bologna  has  always  been 


but  these  only  serve  as  a 

the  broad  ihorougbEires  and  iiuble  i 

cades  of  the  modern  city. 

The  early  history  of  Bologna  ea 
la  bock  to  the  time  of  the  Etrusa 
Its  ancient  name  of  Fcfifna  issuppo 
to  have  been  derived  from  the  Etru 

lion  OS  the  capital  of  the  t« 
can  cities,  984  years  B.  c,  is  altribulcL. 
His  successor.  Bono,  is  said  to  hMIKj 
given  it  the  nameof  Bononia,atibough 

vho  occupied  the  city  in  the  time  of 
TarquiniuB  Priscus. 

In   the  middle  agei,   Bologna  hud 
become  independent  of  the   German 

the   Popes;  and   had    obtained    from 


HI2,  n 


;  only  a 


vanced  of  all  the 
Slates,  although  it 
residence  of  a  cou 
aovereienty ;  and  ti: 


niarkable. 


jring  It 


leipal  streets  thi 


attracted  by  the  covered  pori 
those  of  Padua  and  MudeUE 
they  are  loo  uniform  in  app 
vie  with  the  elegance  of  the  latter,  they 
are  better  proportioned  and  less  mono- 
tonous than   those  of  the  former  city. 
7ie  older  quarters  of  Bologna,  how- 
erer,  a-ear  a  hearv  and  antique  aspect; 
their  arcades  aie  lou-  aaii  gloomy,  and 
^e  streets  are  irregular  and   narrow; 


linowiedgmentofitsindependen 
a  charter,  granting  to  its  citizens  the 
choice  of  the  consuls,  judges,  and  other 
niagistratea.  It  subsequently  appeared 
among  the  fatcmost  cities  of  the 
Guelphic  league;  and,  after  the  Em. 
peroT  Frederick  II.  bad  left  thenar 
in  Lombardy  to  the  management  of 
his  illegitimate  son,  Hensius  King  of 
Sardinia,  it  "  undertook  to  make  the 
Guelpb  party  triumph  throughout  the 
Cispadone  region.  Bologna  first  at- 
Ueked  Itomagna,  and  forced  the  tovns 
of  Imola,  Faenia,  Forli.  and  Cervia  to 
expel  the  Chibelines,  ant!  declare  for 
the  church.  The  Bolognese  next 
turned  their  arms  against  Modcna. 
The  Modenese  cavalry,  entering  Bo- 
logna one  day  bv  surprise,  carried  off 
from  B public  fountain  a  bucket,  whi^ 
henceforth  was  preserved  in  the  tow« 
of  Modena  as  a  glorious  trophy.  Tfa^ 
,.o.-  ~i.;,.i|  followed  furnished  Tassnni' 
subject  of  his  moek-heroia 
titled  •  La  Secohia  Rapita.' 
The  vengeance  of  the  Bolognese  was, 
however,  any  thing  but  burlesque ; 
after  several  bloody  battles,  the  two- 
armies  Anally  met  at  Fossalta.  on  tbai 
SGtb  of  May,  1249.  Philip  Ugoni  <£ 
Brescia,  who  was  this  year  podctti  tm 
Bologna,  commanded  the  Gueltflj 
I  army,  in  w\iuAk  itm  msOjA  ^.  &eMs^bn 


Pqpal  States.2 


ROUTE  6. —  BOLOGNA. 


2d 


of  the  league  of  Lombardy.  The 
Ghibellnes  were  led  by  King  Hensius: 
each  army  consisted  of  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  thousand  combatants.  The 
battle  was  long  and  bloody ;  but  ended 
with  the  complete  defeat  of  the  Ghi- 
beline  party :  King  Hensius  himself 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  conquerors ; 
he  was  immediately  taken  to  Bologna, 
and  confined  in  the  palace  <5f  the  po- 
desti.  The  senate  of  that  city  re- 
jected all  offers  of  ransom,  all  inter- 
cession in  his  favour.  He  was  enter- 
tuoed  in  a  splendid  manner,  but  kept 
a  prisoner  during  the  rest  of  his  life, 
which  lasted  for  twenty-two  years." — 
SUmondi.  In  the  latter  part  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  the  city  became  a 
prey  to  fitmily  feuds,  arising  out  of  the 
tragical  deaths  of  the  lovers,  Imelda 
Lambertazzi  and  Bonifazio  Gieremei ; 
and  for  many  years  it  was  harassed  by 
the  fierce  contests  for  supremacy  among 
these  and  other  noble  families.  The 
Gieremei  were  the  leaders  of  the 
Guelph  party,  and  the  Lambertazzi 
li^ere  the  leaders  of  the  Ghibelines ; 
but  their  mutual  hatred  was  kept  in 
check  by  the  authorities  until  the  oc- 
currence of  this  domestic  tragedy, 
which  bears,  in  some  respects,  a  strong 
similarity  to  the  history  of  Edward  of 
England  and  his  devoted  Eleanor. 
The  Guelph  party  at  length  appealed 
to  the  Pope,  then  Nicholas  III.,  whose 
mediation  was  so  successful  that  the 
city  acknowledged  him  as  Suzerain; 
but  the  tyranny  of  his  legate  brought 
on  a  revolution  in  1334,  which  ended 
in  the  supreme  power  being  seized  by 
the  captain  of  the  people,  the  cele- 
brated Taddeo  Pepoli,  who  subse- 
quently sold  it  to  the  Visconti.  For 
upwards  of  a  century  after  that  event, 
Bologna  was  subject  either  to  the 
alternate  tyranny  of  the  Visconti  and 
of  the  Popes,  or  to  popular  anarchy  : 
the  family  of  Bentivoglio,  taking  ad- 
vantage of  these  feuds,  seized  and 
maintained  the  government  in  the 
Pope*t  name;  but  their  power  was  too 
imiependent  to  he  acceptable  to  the 
warlike  Julius  IL,  who  dispossessed 
tbem;  and,  a/ler  a  long  struggle,  esta-  I 


blished,  by  military  force,  the  absolute 
supremacy  of  the  Holy  See. 

Bologna  is  one  of  the  few  cities  of 
Italy  which  have  been  occupied  by 
British  troops.  During  the  last  strug- 
gle of  Napoleon  in  Italy,  in  1 814,  the 
Austrian  army  was  supported  in  its 
operations  on  the  Adige,  by  a  body  of 
English  troops,  under  General  Nugent, 
who  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Po, 
and  occupied  Bologna  in  February 
of  that  year. 

In  August  1848,  about  the  time  of 
the  disturbances  at  Ferrara,the  diplo- 
macy  of  Europe  was  startled  by  the 
announcement  that  the  Austrian 
General,  Welden,  had  violated  the 
Papal  territory,  and  attempted  to  take 
possession  of  Bologna.  This  move- 
ment it  appears  had  for  its  object  the 
protection  of  the  Duke  of  Modena, 
who  had  then  returned  to  his  states, 
and  with  whom  it  was  apprehended 
that  the  revolutionary  party  of  Bo- 
logna would  interfere.  General  \VeI» 
den  in  this  movement  had  under  him 
a  force  of  4,000  men,  and  when  his 
object  was  fulfilled  he  called  at  Bo- 
logna, demanding  provisions  and  hos- 
pitality for  forty-eight  hours.  An 
agreement  was  thereupon  made  with 
the  municipality,  by  which  provisions 
were  to  be  sent  to  the  troops,  who 
were  not  to  enter  the  city,  that  privi- 
lege being  only  allowed  to  officers; 
and  three  of  the  gates  were  to  be 
givtn  over  to  the  care  of  the  Austrian 
guards,  for  the  purpose  of  facilitating 
the  execution  of  this  convention. 
Some  officers  on  the  next  day  entered 
the  Piazza,  but  the  moment  the  Aus- 
trian uniform  was  seen  the  populace 
became  furious,  and  the  National 
Guard  rushed  to  the  Ferrara  gate, 
and  opened  a  desperate  fire  on  the 
head  of  a  column  stationed  at  that 
point.  The  Austrians,  of  course, 
answered  the  fire,  and  in  a  moment 
the  battle  became  general;  div^xev^ 
beat,  the  tocsin  sounde^^  V\v^  ^^o\\^ 
rushed  out  on  a\\  svdes,  s\\o\.  diOviTv  \Jcv\i 
gunners  who  seived  ^oux  \i\ce<i%  v^^^^^ 
on  the  heights  ot  t\\c  Motv\\v^xvo\^,  oyv 
flanked  the  troops  \xv  eNCx-j  ^^IvtccW 


Ho 

P  And 


ROUTE  6.  —  BOLOGNA. 


did  «a  mucli  damBgc  llml 
Oeaerai  Welden  thought  it  most 
prudent  lo  draw  off  his  luen  and  retire 
—  oDo-half  to  Modena,  and  the  other 
to  Fertarii,  It  was  the  recollection  of 
thiaaucceu  whicb  led  la  the  struggle 
against  Austria  in  May  1849,  when 
Manbsl  Wimpfen  nas  ordered  to  ad- 
nnec  and  occupy  Bologna,  Ancoiia, 
and  the  principal  points  of  the  Ito- 
■  e  French 


[Sect,  r. 


s  befure  Home.  The  Mar- 
eared  hcrore  the  city  with 
15,000  mcD,  for  Ihe  leipress  purpose 
of  occupying  it)  but  the  Republiean 
party  imagined  that  he  was  to  be 
beaten  with  (he  same  racllity  as 
General  Welden.  The  Marslial,  how- 
ever, unwilling  (o  injure  any  public 


ment,  and  that,  if  the  Republican 
foction  wai  itiEl  allowed  to  orerruls 
them,  he  would  bombard  the  town. 
The  municipality  answered  this  de- 
spatch by  declaring  "that  they  bad. 
lost  all  authority."  'i'be  couiTnandnr- 
in-chief  then,  seeing  that  it  wa«  idle 
to  treat  (iirther,  despatched  four  chelli, 
each  of  which  blling  in  a  difTercDt 
quarter  caused  tlie  greatest   dismay. 

The  municipality  came  forward  « 
that  moment,  and  oQered  two  dollars 
for  each  musket  delivered  at  the  Hotel 
de  Villc  within  twenty-fiiur  hour*, 
and  thus  a  complete  disormament  of 
archbishop. 


propositiuni,  all  uf  which  were  ovei 
ruled  by  the  Republican  party,  Th 
people  flew   tu  arms,  screral    saUit 

nceuvreswhichEuocetdedonlhefurmt 
occasion  were  adopted  to  out-Bank  tli 


himself  with  establisbing  batlertes  or 
the  heights  of  San  Michele,  and  tbi 

with  observing  the  different  gates,  si 
as  to  prevent  provisions  or  reinforce- 
menCs  coming  in.  By  these  mean! 
the  Austrians  were  kept  out  of  Ibi 
reach  of  muslcetry,  and  the  three  01 
finir  piece*  uf  cannon  held  by  iIie 
F^wn  in  vain  attempted  to  silence  Iheii 
^^'—  ■  ^  which  did  nothing  mort 
I  dear  the  walls  of  the  National 
wrds  whenever  they  appeared,  and 
^ongreve  rackets  and  gren- 
ade* to  the  middle  of  the  city,  to  show 
that  Ihe  Marshal  had  the  means  ol 
action  in  his  hand  if  he  chose  to  use 
them.      Tills  state  of  things  continued 


neh  Con 


ral  ofth 


luted,  and  the  Austrian  troops  marched 
in  on  the  following  morning,  the  siega 
having  lasted  ten  days.  The  Austrian 
Marshal  completed  his  victory  by 
taking  Ihc  keys  of  the  city  from  tbe 
senator,  and  sending  them  to  the  Pupa 
at  Cacta.  For  a  considerable  period 
afterwards  the  city  was  maintained  in 
a  state  of  siege,  the  result  of  whidi 
was,  that  every  traveller  who  entered 
il  was  required  Ut  present  himself  to 
the  military  govemor  immediately  on 


ilogna  1 


of  a  bishopr 
5   first   hi  she 


Zama.  It  w 
tank  of  an  archbishopric  by  Gregory 
XIII.  It  has  had  the  honour  of 
contributing  more  learned  prelates  to 
the  sacred  college  than  any  other  ejty 
of  Italy  ;  among  tbe  natives  who  have 
the  pontifleaf 


Luch 


II. ;      Gregory 


i  4th  t> 


the  : 


ffug  of  trace  vith  a  letter 
n!cipa]itjf,  declarmg  tUat  h 
dii^penoas  of  properly  w 


XIII. ;  Innocent  IX. ;  Gregory  XV., 
ind  Benedict  XIV.  The  list  of  na- 
tive cardinals  comprises  nearly  a  hun- 

T/ir  Scliaot  o/BalDgna,  in  thehislory 

if  art,  occupies  so  prominent  a  place, 

-    and  nunnbeis   among   its   masters   so 

!    many  illustrioua  names,  fti«  iv  vioiitd 


Papal  StateM.2    houte  6.  —  bologna.  —  School  of  Art 


St 


work  to  enter  into  any  thing  like  a 
detailed  account  of  its  history;  and 
the  publication  of  Kugltr'a  Hand  Book 
Iff  Painting,  in  an  English  form,  has 
now  rendered  it  unnecessary.  But 
while  the  traveller  is  referred  to  this 
learned  work  for  the  details  of  tiic 
school,  it  may  be  useful  as  an  intro- 
duction to  a  particular  description  of 
the  public  institutions  of  the  city,  to 
give  a  brief  general  outline  of  its  pro- 
gress. 

The  first  name  of  any  eminence 
among  the  early  followers  of  Giotto  at 
Bologna  is  that  of  Franco  BolognesCt 
supposed  to  have  been  the  pupil  of 
Oderigi  di  Gubbio,  the  missal  painter, 
immortalised  by  Dante.  He  opened 
the  first  academy  of  art  rn  Bologna,  in 
1313,  and  is  termed  by  Lanzi  the  Gi< 
otto  of  the  Bolognese  school.  Among 
bis  successors  were  Vitale  da  Bologna  \ 
( 1 320 ),  Jacopo  Paolo  or  Avanzi  ( 1 404  ), ' 
Pietro,  and  Orazio  di  Jacopo,  Lippo  di 
Dalmasio,  Maso  da  Bologna,  Marco 
Zoppo,  scholar  of  Lippo,  and  after- 
wards of  Squarcione,  at  Padua  ( 1 47 1 ), 
who  founded  an  academy  of  great  ce- 
lebrity at  Bologna,  and  Jacopo  Forti, 
the  friend  and  imitator  of  Zoppo 
(1483).  But  the  most  illustrious  name 
which  occurs  in  the  early  history  of 
the  school  is  that  of  Francesco  Francia 
(1 535),  who  may  perhaps  be  considered 
as  its  true  founder.  Of  the  style  of 
this  great  master,  whose  works  have 
only  lately  been  appreciated  in  Eng- 
land, Lanzi  says,  "  it  is,  as  it  were,  a 
middle  course  bL'tween  Perugino  and 
Bellini,  partaking  of  them  both  ;  **  and 
Raphael,  in  a  letter  given  by  Malvasia, 
says  that  he  had  seen  no  Madonnas 
better  designed,  more  beautiful,  or  cha- 
racterised by  a  greater  appearance  of 
devotion  than  those  of  Francia.  Among 
the  scholars  of  Francia,  whose  works 
may  yet  be  studied  at  Bologna,  were 
his  son  Giacomo{\515),  Lorenzo  Costa 
(1530),  Girolamo  Marchesida  Cotignola 
(1520),  and  Amico  &n^Guido  Aspertini 
(155*2).  From  the  time  of  Francia  to 
that  of  the  Caracci,  various  styles  wera  I 
iatroduced  by  Bagnacavallo  (Barto- 
Jtmuatio£MwengbiJ,JJSl;  Innocenzio 


da  Imola,  a  pupil  of  Francia,  1542 ; 
Francesco  Primaticcio,  1570;  Niccolo 
Abate,  1571 ;  and  Pellegrino  Tibaldi, 
1591,  one  of  the  architects  of  the  ca- 
thedral of  Milan,  and  who  was  called 
by  the  Caracci  "  II  Michael  Angelo 
Riformato.**  The  style  introduced  into 
the  Bolognese  school  by  BagnacavaUo, 
and  adopted  by  Innocenzio  da  Imola, 
was  that  of  Raphael ;  while  that  of 
Michael  Angelo  was  adopted  by  Pc/- 
legrino  Tibaldi,  who  can  only  be  appre- 
ciated in  Bologna.  Their  contempo- 
raries, Primaticcio  and  Niccold  Abate, 
leH:  Bologna  to  study  under  Giulio 
Romano,  in  Mantua,  and  subsequently 
settled  in  France.  The  school  was  for 
a  time  supported  by  Lavinia  Fontana, 
Loremino  (Lorenzo  Sabbatini),  Orazio 
Samacchini,  and  Passerotti ;  but  it  was 
already  on  the  decline,  and  gradually 
dwindled  away  before  the  superior 
attractions  of  the  other  great  schools 
of  the  period,  although  Diont/sius  Cal- 
vart,  a  native  of  Antwerp,  and  Barto^ 
lommeo  Cesi  had  established  in  the  city 
seminaries  of  some  repute. 

But  the  third  and  greatest  epoch  of 
the  School  of  Bologna  was  that  which 
produced  the  Caracci  and  their  pu- 
pils ;  and  before  the  close  of  the  six- 
teenth century  we  find  a  new  style 
created  by  the  Caracci,  which  super- 
seded the  ancient  maxims,  and  finally 
supplanted  those  of  every  other  mas- 
ter. This  revolution  in  the  art  ori* 
ginated  with  Lodovico  Caracci,  "  a 
young  man,"  says  Lanzi, "  who,  during 
his  earlier  years,  ap])eared  to  be  slow 
of  understanding,  and  fitter  to  grind 
colours  than  to  harmonise  and  apply 
them."  After  visiting  the  works  of 
his  predecessors  in  the  different  cities 
of  Italy,  he  returned  to  Bologna,  and, 
with  the  co-operation  of  his  cousins, 
Agostino  and  Annibale,  established  an 
academy.  By  their  judgment  and 
kindliness  of  fceline,  and  by  their 
mild  conduct,  in  spite  of  opposition 
and  ridicule  from  the  artists  vjVvo  \3tv«^ 
monopolised  pubVic  {a\oui  aX'ftoXo^w^i* 
they  succeeded  m  alliac\\tv^  bl  «ovj^ 
of  pupils. 

The  most  diatinguvAved  «:\io\;vt  c 

c  4 


32 


nouTE  6 


the  Cancci  wu  DenutiMno,  comi- 
1 1c  red  \iy  Pouisiii  as  the  gtntlesi 
painter  neit  to  Rspbad.  His  friend, 
Albani,  the  AnaerMn  of  painting,  is 
anatbcr  name  inipvrUliHljl]'  assucialed 
nith  the  Kchool   of  the   Caracci,  and 


Hie  tr 


.*Her 


'ill  n. 


eognis 


e  great  galleries 
Italy.    But  Gui^o,  another  disciple  of 
thil  Ichool,  i>  frequently  considered 


eicited  (o  much  as  he  did  Ilio  jealouiy 

it  would  be  out  of  plane  to  enter  here 
into  an  analjaii  of  the  styles  adopted 

forms  of  heauly  wliich  Guido  has  em- 
bodied, and  the  peculiar  characteristics 
of  his  canlempoiaries,  must  be  known 
to  every  traveller.  Among  the  names 
whieli  figure  in  the  history  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school  at  this  period  are  those 
of  Gnlilo  Cagnacci,  Simora  Canlarini, 
and  Franaaco  Gctii,  the  best  pupils 
of  Guido,  GiKrcinD,  and  IjtnfTaittB. 
Among  tlie  scholaro  of  the  Caracci, 
who  remained  in  Bologna  after  this 
time,  are  SUio  Badalixchi,  Akitandro 
Tiariai,  Liondio  Spada,  Lonma  Gar- 


tn,  Giat 


\o  Caned, 


Lmio  Afiusari,  &c.,  all  artists  of  con- 
siderable reputation,  and  Gebio  dt' 
Caracci,  to  famous  <a  a  painter  of 
fruit.  The  school  of  Bologna  declined 
iritb  that  of  the  Caracci;  the  attempt 
of  Mickad  Angdo  Co/unna  arrested  lis 
downfeil  for  a  period,  but  was  wholly 

celebrity.  The  fourth  and  lost  period 
of  the  school  boasts  the  names  of 
Paslneili  and  Carlo  Ciffnani ;  the  Fbr- 

Rapliael  with  the  colouring  of  Paolo 
Veronese,  and  the  latter  the  grace  of 
Correggio  vilh  the  varied  knowledge 
and  correctoesa  of  the  Caracci. 

After    this   genera!    sketch    of  the 
Bolognese  nliool,  which  will  be  found 

the  treasures  of  art  profusely  scattered 


.  —  Picture  Gattery.     tSect.  T. 

noble  institution,  formerly  the  Jesuits' 
Colltgc,  is  truly  a  national  cstablidi- 
ment.  It  contains  a  rich  gallery  of 
pictures,  mostly  of  the  native  SEhDol, 
which  hate  been  here  preserved  ttom 
the  oollections  of  suppressed  conventa 
and  churdies.  By  an  excellent  ar- 
rangement, the  older  work^  are  placed 
at  the  entrance  of  the  gallery ;  and. 
thus  the  student  has  an  opporttinily 
of  following  the  progress  of  art  The 
great  charm  of  the  collection  ii  iU 
nationality,  and  no  city  in  Italy  hal^ 
in  this  respect,  a  higher  or  more  last- 
ing interest.  Kr  Joshua  Reynold!, 
in  recommending  I^doyico  Caracci  to 
the  young  student,  as  the  model  tot 
style  in  painting,  pointed  out  the  pe- 
culiar advantages  of  Bologtia  as  a  place 
of  study.  "  It  is  our  misfortune,"  he 
Ba,vs,  "  that  those  works  of  the  Caracci 
which  I  would  recommend  to  the  stu- 
dent are  not  often  found  out  of  Bo- 
logna, •  •  •  and  I  think  those 
who  travel  would  do  well  to  allot  a 
uucb  greater  portion  of  their  time  tc 
that  city,  than  it  has  been   hitherto 


the  c 


.   //. 


I  <&ffc  SelU  ArU.  —  This 


At  the  entrance  of  the  gallery  ia  a 
large  collection  of  altar-pieces,  of  the 
fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries 
mostly  of  Bolognese  origin.  The  fol- 
lowing may  be  specified  as  the  most 
remarkable  works ;  — 

Ciotfo.  The  ado  wings  of  the 
small  altar-piece  preserved  in  tha 
Brcra  at  Milan,  brought  hither  from 
the    Church   oF    Santa    Maria    degli 

Btiognta  Sc/ioo!. 

yiloltdaBBlegnailam).  Madonna 
and  Child. 

Si'RUMi  da  Balagna  (1«H).  Coio- 
nation  of  the  Virgin. 

Jaapo  Paolo.     The  Crucifixion. 

Santa  Caterina  Vigri.      St.  Ursula. 

i^mncHco  Friotda.  This  great  mas- 
ter may  lie  st  udiad  here  with  advantoge, 
78.  Madonna  and  Child,  with  SS.  Au- 
gustin,  Francis,  Proclus,  Monica,  John 
the  Baptist,  and  &e^»Gt\a&,  ^alated, 
'  ccording  to  tlie  6atB  V^scriW.  on  it. 


Pegpal  States.^     Route  6.  -—  bologna.  —  Picture  GaUery.    S3 


in  1494,  fbr  Sta.  Maria  ddla  Miseri- 
eordia,  and  celebrated  for  the  beauty 
of  the  St  Sebastian.  79.  The  An- 
nun«ation. 

Giaeomo  Franeicu  84.  Holy  Fa- 
mily. 

Girdamo  Marcketi  da  Cotignola. 
108.  The  Sposalizio. 

Guido  Atpertini,  9.  Adoration  of 
the  Magu 

JLorenxoCotta.  St.  Petroni  us  throned 
with  two  saints,  an  altar-piece,  dated 
1 502,  and  characterised  by  its  exceed- 
ing gracefulness. 

Bagnacavallo,  ISS.  Holy  Family 
and  Saints. 

Immocenzio  da  Imoltu  89.  Madonna 
in  glory,  with  SS.  Michael,  Peter, 
and  Benedict  90.  Holy  Family,  one 
of  the  finest  known ;  copied  for  the 
late  King  of  Prussia,  on  account,  it  is 
nid,  of  the  resemblance  of  the  Virgin 
to  his  young  and  beautiful  queen. 

PdUgrino  TibaldL  Marriage  of  St 
Catherine ;  very  graceful. 
V  Phupero  Fontarui,  74.  The  Depo- 
sition. 
V"  Lavinia  Fontana.  75.  The  Queen 
of  France  presenting  her  infant  to  St. 
Francis. 

Lorenzo  Sabbatini,  called  by  Lanzl 
**  uno  de*  piik  gentili  e  de*  plu  delicati 
pittori  del  suo  secolo.**  146.  The  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin,  with  various 
angels  and  saints  in  adoration,  much 
praised  by  the  Caracci. 

Orazio  Samacchini,  The  Virgin  in 
a  glory  of  angels,  crowned  by  the 
Trinity,  and  worshipped  by  John  the 
Baptist,  the  Magdalen,  S.  Catherine, 
SS.  Francis,  Clare,  Nabor,  and  Felix ; 
also  much  admired  and  praised  by  the 
Caracci. 

T%€  Caracci  and  their  School 

The  gallery  contains  some  of  the 
finest  works  of  this  interesting  period 
of  art,  and  nowhere,  perhaps,  can  the 
genius  of  the  Caracci,  Domenichino, 
and  Guido,  be  so  well  studied  and  ap- 
preciated. .    ^ 

Lodcmco  CSaraeei,  42,  The  Madonna 
ModCluU  throaed,  with  four  Saints, 
V  4S,    Tb9  TraoBSguTaUon ;    a    grand 


!  picture,  praised  by  Sir  Joshua  Rey 
I  nolds,  as  worthy  the  attention  of  the 
student.  <*  An  admirable  conception 
of  a  subject,  which,  with  reverence  to 
Raphael  be  it  spoken,  does  not  Mem 
adapted  to  painting." — Matthews.  44. 
The  Calling  of  St  Matthew'.  45^^Na- 
tivity  of  St.  John  Baptist,  both  praised 
by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds.  '46.  Preach- 
ing of  St.  John.  r47.  Conversion  of 
St.  Paul.  1^48.  Madonna  and  Child, 
standing  on  the  half-moon,  in  a  glory 
of  angels,  with  St.  Jerome  and  St. 
Francis,  "an  inimitable  painting,  in 
which  the  artist  has  displayed  the 
richest  stores  of  genius.  The  coun- 
tenance of  the  Virgin  is  exquisitely 
beautiful ;  a  veil,  touched  with  great 
skill,  covers  her  head,  falling  in  light 
folds  over  the  bosom  and  shoulders, 
and  the  child  presenting  all  the  ani- 
mated graces  of  infantine  loveliness,  is 
full  of  life  and  nature.  St.  Francis  in 
adoration,  and  kissing  the  child's  hand, 
is  painted  in  a  dark  tone  not  to  inter- 
fere with  the  principal  figures,  and  is 
yet  finely  made  out,  as  are  the  angels 
and  the  other  accompaniments  of  the 
picture  ;  the  colouring  soft  and  sweetly 
tinted,  the  whole  being,  with  wonderful 
art  and  keeping,  entirely  subordinate 
to  the  great  object  of  the  bomposition." 
— Bell.  Matthews  describes  the  Ma- 
donna as  "  exquisitely  elegant,  but  then 
it  is  the  elegance  and  refinement  of  a 
woman  of  fiishion.  She  is  not  the 
Madonna,  such  as  Raphael  has  repre- 
sented her,  and  such  as  she  will  ever 
exist  personified  in  the  imagination  ot 
him  who  has  seen  Raphael's  pictures.** 
49.  The  Flagellation  of  our  Saviour ; 
a  "  wild  and  savage  production,  por- 
traying a  scene  totally  unsuitable  to 
the  dignity  of  the  Saviour  of  mankind. 
The  drawing  is  good,  and  the  fore- 
shortening of  the  figures  finely  ma- 
naged.**—  Bell.  50.  The  Crowning 
with  'ITiorns.  51.  Three  Monks.  53. 
I  St  Uoch.  Several  of  these  pictures 
I  have  a  view  of  Bologtva  *m  VJci^X^^Ol- 
/  ground. 

Ayo^tino  Caracci.  ^A.  T\\e  Cotcv- 
ttiunion  of  St.  Jerome  \  a  rt\«L^^eT\\^^^ 
35.  Assumption  oi  tVve  \\t\gvtv* 

c  5 


ROUTE  6.  —  BOLOGNA.  —  Picture  Gallery,         [Sect.  I. 


f 

^  AnnihaU  CafMci,  a.  few  of  his  beil 
worka.V  36.  Modonna  nnd  Child  in 
glory,  with  St.  John  Baptist,  the  Evsn- 
gitliat,  anil  St.  CBthcrine.  ^7.  Ma- 
duDDa  throned  with  Saints.  ^8.  As- 
_  atimptioa  uf  the  Virgiir. 

SAelanafihe  Ca^ni- 
luandrB  Tiarinl.  ISZ.  Deposition 

W  the  Cross,  attributed  to  the  Caracoi 
I,  and  bj  others  to  Cignani, 
"  ine  ngures  ore  eonsidelably  smaller 
than  lifb,  nhlch  might  bt  supposed  to 
hurt  the  general  cftbct,  but  the  eom- 
position  is  so  perfect  ns  to  leave  uo 
feeling  in  the  mind  but  that  of  admi- 
ration. The  drawing  and  colouring 
of  OUT  Saviour's  body  are  in  such  a 
style  of  eioellence  as  to  give  the  most 
aliecling  eipresuon  to  a  reprevntation 
generally  bo  painful :  his  figure,  fonn- 
jug  tlie  great  central  light  of  this 
touching  picture,  is  sketched  out  with 
the  finest  truth  of  nature.  It  is  the 
silent,  motionless  rigidity  of  death,  yet 
bearing  a  character  full  of  interpst, 
hating  nothing  of  the  tame  Hat  draw- 
ing and  cadavcrmia  colouring  so  fre- 
quently seen  in  this  suhject.  The  head 
and  left  bund  are  supported  ;  while  the 
right,  which  is  drawn  with  eiquisite 
skill,  hangs  down  lifeless  and  stiir."— 
BislL\  1 8.i.  Marriage  of  St.  Caihetine. 

Giaeomo  Caeedoni.  55.  Madonna 
and  Child,  in  glory,  with  Saints.  5G. 
Martyrdom  of  St  Peter,  the  Domcni- 
can  ;  the  saint  is  represented  writing 
with  his  blood  upon  the  ground  the 
words  "  Crtdo  in  Diumt"  while  the 
robber  repents  his  bJuw. 

i)Dnu!nicAiN().Vs06.  Martyrdom  of 
St.  Agnes,  a  masterpiece,  formerly  he- 
tonging  to  the  church  of  the  same  name. 
"  A  deC|J-toned,  grand,  and  richly 
pMulcd  picture,  croH-ded  witli  figures, 
and  a  background  of  fine  action.     The 


the  two  women  forming  tbc  foreground 
of  one  comer  of  the  picture,  who  are 
represented  as  biding  the  face,  and 
stilling  the  screams  it  a  terriBed  ohild, 
affords  a  scene  of  fine  action  very  ad- 
mirably delineated.  But  yet  the  act 
of  the  martyrdom  is  too  deliberate. 
The  murderer  plunging  the  dagger  into 
her  bosom  Ehould  turn  off  with  si 


itiful   c 


the  saint  is  irradiated  by  an  eipression 
of  rapt  holiness  and  heavenly  resigna- 
tion, infinitely    touching,    and    finely 
Bontraadng  with  the  (error  and  amase- 
m^i-t  described   vitU   admirsble  skill 
'"dem^,  !„  the  attitudes  of  the  sur- 
niuadiag  muititade.       The  episode  of 


■I  from 


nitted 


n  cold  blood,  unexcitcd  by  any  pldi 
riple  of  fury  or  revenge,"— Sfi/.t^T. 

ij   nbovQ 
-.    It  Is  a 

representing  the  persecutions  and  mar- 
tyrdoms of  the  church,  while  in  the 
upper.  St.  Gregory  is  interceding  ibr 
the  faithful   with  the  Madonna,  who 
sits  with    the   infant    Saviour  on  the 
throDC  showering  flowers  on  tbc  saint. 
208*'  The  martyrdom  of  St.  PeleBtho 
Domenican,  chief  of  the  Inquisition  at 
Milan,  treated  in  a  different  way  trmu    , 
the  eelehraied  picture  of  Titian  at    ^^ 
Venice,  and  from  the  same  subject  by    ' 
liis  imitator  Cavedone, already  noticed. 
"  The  elevated  and  eiBlted  resignation     , 
painted   un   the  features  of  a   nobte' 
effect  of  the  black 


rapery  . 


St  around  the  kneeling  G-  , 
held  in  one  lai^o  m^estie  : 
t  left  hand,  has  a  combined 'J 


fold  by  llie  left 

effect  of  grandeur  and  chaste  EUnpn- 

cily,  which  is  ineipressibly  fine." — flsK 

Francesco  Albani.  I.  Madooni 
throned  with  St,  Catherine  an 
Magdalen.^.  Baptismof  the  Sni 
a  finely  treated  picture.  3.  Madonna 
and  Child,  in  glory. 

Gttida.   "  The  works  of  Guido,  cal- 


the 


"  light ;  and  h 


.tinced  n 


formed  a  just 
estimate  of  Ins  merit,  rbere  is  a  lurce 
and  grandeur  in  some  of  these,  of  which 
the  generality  of  bis  pictures  gives 
little  indication." —. MrttAwf.  134. 
Madonna  della  Pieli ;  in  the  upper 
part  the  dead  body  of  the  Saviour  with 
the  Madonna  aitd  two  n-ecping  angels 
by  the  bUc  -,  a  ilew  o?  'S  Aog™  w  *va 
landscape,  and  l.\ie  jaWons  o^  tos  tW-j , 


I\qHii  Staies.'}  route  6.  —  bologna.  —  Picture  Gallery.      35 


SSw  Petronio,  Domenico,  Carlo  Bor- 
romeo,  Francesco  d*  Assisi,  and  Proclus. 
A  superb  and  touching  picture.  **  Tlie 
pief  portrayed  in  the  Madonna  della 
Pieti  is  not  of  the  earth,  but,  if  the 
word  may  be  allowed,  of  heaven.  This 
work  exhibits  the  greatest  variety  of 
perfections  in  its  several  parts,  from 
the  gracefulness  of  the  little  angels  be- 
low, to  the  afl9iction  of  the  virgins  and 
tbe^N9gels  weeping  above."  —  VaUry, 
VI SV  The  Massacre  of  the  Innocents, 
a  celebrated  picture,  full  of  deep  feel- 
ing and  beauty  of  expression.  *'  A 
most  powerful  piece,  and  composed 
with  wonderful  effect  and  skill.  The 
figures  are  of  the  full  size  of  life ;  the 
terror,  dismay,  and  wildness  of  the 
diflTerent  groups  are  admirably  por* 
trayed,  and,  notwithstanding  the  vio- 
lence of  the  action,  each  head  is  beau- 
tiful as  that  of  an  angel;  the  naked 
ruffians,  with  their  uplifted  daggers 
and  sacrilegious  hands  stained  with 
blood,  are  drawn  in  the  finest  style, 
and  with  all  the  energy  of  pitiless 
stddiers  inured  to  such  deeds.  The 
outcry  of  one  mother,  dragged  by  her 
scarf  and  hair,  and  held  by  one  of 
these  men  till  he  reaches  her  child; 
the  pale  dishevelled  aspect  of  another, 
breathless  with  terror,  fainting,  and 
delayed  in  her  flight  from  agitation  ; 
the  despair  and  agony  of  a  third  be- 
yond these,  who  sits  wringing  her 
hands  over  her  slaughtered  babes ;  the 
touch  of  madness  pictured  on  the  fine 
countenance,  which  is  uplifled  with  an 
indescribable  expression  of  the  utmost 
agony  ;  the  murdered  babes  filling  the 
lower  corner  of  the  picture,  lying  on 


Church   of  the   Capuchins.      **  The 
agony  of  our  Saviour,  the  gentle  love 
and  adoration  of  St.  John,  the  fervour 
with  which  Mary  Magdalene,  kneeling, 
embraces  the  lower  part  of  the  cross, 
the  last  drooping  of  Mary,  the  mourn- 
fill  solemnity,  the  sombre  tint  of  the 
landscape,  are  very  striking.     It  is, 
perhaps,  the  finest  and  most  finished 
picture   in   existence.       The   magni- 
ficent size  of  the  figures,  the  fulness 
without  heaviness  of  the  drapery,  the 
deep  fine  tones  of  the  colouring,  with 
the  impression  excited  from  the  awful 
stillness  of  the  scene,  are  wonderful." — 
BelL   lS7.V*The  Victory  of  Samson    ^ 
over  the    Philistines:    "  the  Samson 
has  something  of  Apollo,  but  it  is  not 
the  Pythian  conqueror,  the   god   of 
verse,  of  the  sun  and  the  arts ;  it  is  a 
Jewish  Apollo,  striding  over  the  pros- 
trate Philistines,  and  breaking  their  \ 
heads  with  an  ass's  jawbone. "  —  Valery.    •  ^ 
Mr.  Bell  describes   this  as  **a  most'   ,' 
superb  picture.     The  low  lying  land-     < 
scape,  rising   into    brightness  in  tlie.^ 
sof);  tints  of  early  dawn ;  the  distant     ' 
view  of  the  camp  of  the  Philistines ; 
the  grandeur  and  noble  elevation  of 
mind  delineated  in  the  form,  contour, 
and  action  of  the  conqueror,  thus  re- 
presented alone  in  the  midst  of  death  ; 
the    admirable     drawing    and     fore- 
shortening of  the  bodies  lieaped  on 
each  other ;  and  the  deep  solitude  and    ^ 
silence  that  seems  to  pervade  the  whole» 
are  inexpressibly  fine.     Nothing  bar- 
barous or  brutal  is  represented ;  no  blood 
is  seen.     It  is  one  great  simple  epic 
story.     A    fine    and    solemn    scene, 
forming  a  very  inestimable  picture." 


the  blood-stained  marble,  so  pale,  so  1^138.    Madonna  and  Child,  in  glory 
huddled  together,  so   lifeless,  yet  so  ,  painted  on  silk,  and  formerly  used  as 
lovely  and  innocent  in  death,  present  |  the  banner  (pallione)  of  the  church  of 
an  historical  picture,  perhaps  the  most    S.  Domenico,  in  solemn  processions. 
domestic  and  touching  that  ever  was  fl39.      Portrait  of  the  Beato  Andrea 


painted.    Tlie  broad  shadows,  the  cor- 
rectness, roundness,  and  simplicity  of 


Corsini,  in  poiitifical  rol>es.  >I40.    St, 
Sebastian  ;    a  sketch,  but  full  of  ex- 
drawing  in  the  whole,  are  inconceivably  I  pression.      "A  wonderful  sketch,  in 
striking,   the   colour    consistent    and  ,  a  very  simple  style.     The  head  of  tho 
harmonious,  noone  point  overlaboured,  j  young  enthusiast,  \)a^%\OT\^\.V!\^  Wrctvv^ 
ytt  no  fiiXvct  negJected." — //el/.  136.1  up   to   heaven,   \8    e\c\v\\^v\c\'^    ^w«- 
ne  Cruciaxion,  a  grand  and  solemn    shortened,    and    sVxaded    ^'WVv  W*^^*' 
comptmiUon,    &om    the    »iippressed  j  hair,  curling  almost  \u  a  c\tc\e  loxxw^ 

c  6 


36  HODTE  6. - 

his  fine  opeu  forelieBd.  Themundliig  j 
and  dicplay  of  the  slioulder  iiod  lu 
parts,  tbc  (.-ipaiuion  of  the  6at  wide 
cheat,  thfl  Apollo-lite  Blenderiieis,  yet 
manliness  of  tba  limbs,  the  n^llgenl 
floir  of  lbs  slight  drapery  thrown 
around  the  middle,  the  eiTect  of  the 
light  falling  down  almost  perpendicu- 
.  lurly  on  the  head  tad  nhoulders,  the 
juBt  proportion  or  the  figure  to  the 
Lss,  with  tiii  low  unfiuished  tint 
e  distant  landscape,  render  this 
ia  finest  atetch  perhaps  in  eiitteace.' 
1(0.  141.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin. 
t.  The  Agony  of  Christ. 
I  Cutrciiu,  V4.  God  the  Father;  a 
impromptu  painting,  done  in  a 
oighl,  and  put  up  in  the  morn- 
itmerly  belonging  to  the  Church 
jr&Ha  e  Maria.  IB.  Grand  Duke 
Villiam  of  Aquitaine  kneeling  before 
^  Pelll,  bishop  1  very  fine.  13.  St. 
1  beautiful  picture,  one  of 
i*s  mofit  powerful  works.  14. 
i.  Peter,  the  Domeniean-  15.  St. 
'intbeBaptut.    1 9.  Tlie  Magdalen. 

Sdiolart  of  durfo, 
L  Etitabtita  Sirani.  'l7S.  The  infent 
■  appearing  to  Si.  Antony.   Eli- 

if  Guido,  and  died  of  poison  ia  her 

v"  Simone  CanlariM  (da  Pc.aro).  39. 
The  Assumption  ;  a  masterpiece.  30, 
Fortrait  of  Gnido  in  his  old  age,  very 
qnrited  and  life-like. 


.   ScllBOl 

,a  in  glor 


^■f  Xaphad.  152.  The  Santa  Cecilia; 
^^Bbriginalty  painted  tiir  the  Bentivoglio 
^"■Chapel  in  the  Church  of  «  r:;«..„„: 


This 


withoutdoubt        ^  .      

gallerf.      Mr.  Matthews  says,  "  T 

CeciiJa  of  Rapbaethes,  rsiispect,bE 

retouched  and  spoilt  at  Paris;  '  a 

Jiere  tppear  to  be  tome  grounds  for 


.  —  Ptoture  Gallery.     ^Sect.  T. 

believing  that  the  picture  bas  under- 
gone numerous  restorationji.  "  Santa 
Cecilia  is  represented  with  a  lyre, 
held  hybolh  hands,  carelessly  dropped; 
the  head  turned  up  towards  heaven, 
with  a  beautiful  pensive  eounlenanee, 
having  an  expression  of  concentrated 
and  eialted  feeling,  as  if  devoting  the 
best  faculties  and  gifts  of  Gud  to 
God,  is  deeply  and  touchingly  im^ 
pressive;  her  drapery  is  uf  finely  en- 
riched yellow,  thrown  over  a  dose- 
drawn  tunic;  St.  Paul,  a  superb  dig- 
nified figure,  iil]s  one  comer;  St. 
John,  drawn  with  a  greater  eipresuon 
of  simplicity  and  delicacy  of  form,  is 
next  to  him;  St.  Augustine,  another 
grand  figure,  and  Mary  Magdalene, 
like  sister  of  the  heaven-devoted  Ce- 
cilia, stands  close  by  her.  All  the 
figures  are  in  aline,  but  so  finely  com- 
posed, and  the  disposidan  of  the  lights 
and  shades  such  as  to  produce  the 
effect  of  a  beautiful  central  group, 
consisting  ofSanta  Cecilia,  Mary  Mag- 
dalene, and  St.  Peter.  Musical  in- 
struments, scattered  on  the  foregroimd, 
fill  it  up,  but  without  attracting  the 
eye;  a  pure  blue  element  forms  the 
boriioo,  while  high  in  the  heavens  a 
choir  of  angels,  touched  with  the  soft- 
est tints,  is  indistinctly  seen." — BtH. 
"  There  is  a  vast  diBerence,"  says 
Valery,  "  between  the  pious  entbitsi- 
asm,  the  mystical  freniyofthis  patron  of 
musicians,  and  (he  profane  charms  of 
the  muse  Euterpe.  Music,  like  speech, 
seems  really  a  gitl  of  God,  when 
it  appears  under  such  an  emblem. 
How  shall  I  descnhe  the  perfections 
uf  such  a  painting?  Tbo  ardour,  the 
triumphant  Joy  of  the  seraphim  singing 
tlie  sacred  hymn  in  heaven,  the  purity 
and  simplicity  of  the  saint's  features, 
BO  well  contrasted  with  the  frivolous 
and  ooquettish  air  of  the  Magdalen  ! 
Worthily  to  render  all  these  beauties, 
one  must  be  able  to  exclaim  with  Cor- 
rcggio,  when  he  first  contemplated 
thLswort,  Asth'  io  ton  p!Uor*."  Tb 
eftixt  produced  by  this  picture  01 
Francia  is  well  known  by  the  accoun 
of  Vaaaii,  v'aa  bo-ib  ftiat.  ftie  jjna 
paint«i  died  of  inoW.XftTOiia'a  oni  bm 


Papal  Sbaet,"^    bouts  6>  —  bologna.  —  University, 


37 


prise  shortly  after  the  Sta.  Cecilia 
arrived  in  Bologna. 

Gimlio  Romano,  210.  A  copy  of 
the  St  John,  of  Raphael,  in  the  Tri- 
bune. 

Timoieo  deUe  Fite,  204.  The  Mag- 
dalen in  the  Desert,  painted  for  the 
Cathedral  of  Urbino;  very  pleasing 
and  expressive. 

Florentine  SchooL 

Giorgio  Vatari.  198.  Gregory  the 
Great  entertaining  twelve  poor  pil- 
grims ;  painted  for  the  Convent  of  S. 
Michele  in  Bosco.  This  work  is  a 
series  of  portraits  of  the  artist's  friends 
and  patrons;  Gregory  is  represented 
by  Pope  Clement  VII. ;  Duke  Ales- 
sandro  de*  Medici,  and  even  the  butler 
of  the  convent,  are  introduced. 

School  of  Parma, 

Parmegiano.  l\6.  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  saints  in  adoration  ;  *<'the 
colouring  is  fresh,  beautiful,  and  deep- 
toned,  and  the  shades  of  the  drapery 
and  dark  sides  of  the  figures  finely 
wrought,  but  the  composition  is  in  a 
stiff  elementary  style,  which,  though 
admired  by  connoisseurs,  is,  in  my 
opinion,  wanting  in  grace  and  ex- 
pression. The  heads  of  the  angels 
around  the  Virgin  are  as  regular  as  a 
circle  of  a  Gothic  fringe  above  an 
arched  door,  and  the  figures  below 
painted  in  the  same  spirit  of  strict  uni- 
formity.**— litlL  "  This  picture,'*  says 
M.  Valery,  "  was  honoured  by  the  ad- 
miration of  the  Caracci  and  Guido, 
who  studied  it ;  the  heads  of  the  Virgin 
and  the  saint  are  sublime  and  affecting, 
as  are  all  the  many  figures  of  women 
that  adorn  this  museum.  In  this  re- 
spect the  gallery  is  truly  enchanting ; 
and  never  did  beauty  appear  more  ex- 
quisite or  in  greater  variety." 

Schoot  of  Milan, — Bologneee  Maetere, 

CamiUo  Prooaeeini,  131.  The  Na- 
tivity. 

Venetian  School, 

TimtoreUo.     143,  The  Visitation. 
(Xmm(Om^iaMo),  Vjuy/n  and  Child. 


The  Vnivereity  of  BaiognOy  cele«^ 
brated  as  the  oldest  in  Italy,  and  as 
the  first  in  which  academical  degrees 
were  conferred,  was  long  the  glory  of 
its  citizens.  It  was  founded  in  1119 
by  Irnerius,  or  Wernerus,  a  learned 
civilian,  who  taught  the  law  with  such 
reputation  in  his  native  city,  that  he 
acquired  the  title  of  ^  Lucerna  Juris.* 
During  the  troubled  period  of  the 
twelfth  century,  the  fame  of  this  uni- 
versity attracted  students  from  all 
parts  of  Europe  ;  no  less  than  ten 
thousand  are  said  to  have  assembled 
there  in  1262,  and  it  became  neces- 
sary to  appoint  regents  and  professors 
to  the  students  of  each  country.  Ir- 
nerius succeeded  in  introducing  the 
code  of  Justinian  ;  his  disciples  were 
called  Glossators,  who,  treading  in  the 
footsteps  of  their  master,  spread  the 
Roman  law  over  Europe  for  nearly 
two  centuries  longer,  and  sent  to 
England  Vacarius,  one  of  the  ablest 
of  their  body.  At  this  time  Bologna 
taught  the  civil  and  canon  laws  as  the 
favourite,  if  not  as  the  exclusive 
study ;  but  the  faculties  of  medicine 
and  arts  were  added  before  the  com- 
mencement of  the  fourteenth  century ; 
and  Innocent  VI.  instituted  a  theolo- 
gical faculty.  In  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, also,  it  acquired  lasting  celebrity 
as  the  first  school  which  practised  the 
dissection  of  the  human  body  ;  and  in 
more  recent  times  it  became  renowned 
for  the  discovery  of  Galvanism  within 
its  walls.  The  University  of  Bologna 
has  also  been  remarkable  for  an  ho- 
nour peculiarly  its  own  —  the  large 
number  of  its  learned  female  profes- 
sors. In  the  fourteenth  century,  No- 
vella d* Andrea,  daughter  of  the  cele- 
brated canonist,  frequently  occupied 
her  father's  chair ;  and  it  is  recorded 
by  Christina  de  Pisan,  that  her  beauty 
was  so  striking  that  a  curtain  was 
drawn  before  her  in  order  not  to  dis- 
tract the  attention  of  the  students. 

"  Drawn  before  her^ 

Lest  ir  her  charms  ^ere  %eewA^«^  %\\v^<ft\\\A 

Should  let  thcVt  youivg  *si|ci  ^«Ltv<i«T  c?«t  \\«% 

And  quite  (ortet  \,Yi«\t  \utV%vt\i'dA\xc<i.'' 

*  Moore. 

The  name  ot  l.a\xt«Lia««:\,^x^^«*»' 


S,  —  soLdoha.  —  Vhivertily  Museums. 


Cardii 


Cignani 

i  the  first  president,  aUo  fuuad  ■ 

by    many    Iparncd    ladiui   of  local  habitation  ;  in  1S03,  the  univer- 

"  '  sity  was  transferred  here,  and  guve  to 

tlie  eatire  buiJdiiig  the  general  name 

of  tbe  "  Pontificia  Universita." 

The  halls  of  tbe  loggialo  and  tbe 
adjoining  chambets  are  remarkable  for 
Iheir  Hne  frescoeB,  by  Pellcgrino  Ti- 
baldi,  which  the  Caracci  tbutight 
worthy  of  imitation.  In  the  court,  by 
Triachini,  is  ihe  statue  of  Here ulea  at 
rest,  a  singular  work  in  grey  atone,  by 
I  Meizoianti.  At  the  present  Angelo  Fio,  a  iioul|itarof  same  repute 
raity  baa  lost  its  high  .  in  the  Eevenlecnth  century.      ' 


bers  ofthe  [/niTersity.  Anolber,  and, 
ai  our  English  travellers  may  consider, 
more  surprising  instance^  JB  that  of 
Madonna  Mnnzolina,  who  graduated 
in  surgery  and  was  Professor  of  Ana- 
tomy i  and  even  in  our  own  times,  the 
Greek  chair  was  Slled  by  the  learned 
MaliUla  Tambrooi.  the  friend  and  iin- 
:   predecessor,    we 


ilory  of  Ihe 
Glossators  will  be  disappointed  in  his 
researches  B(  Bologna.  Medical  stu- 
dies appear  to  have  the  superiority, 
and  the  name  ofTommasini  has  given 
a  reputation  to  it  as  a  clinical  school, 
which    lias  been  well  maintained  by 

moval  to  Parma. 

The  noble  Palace  in  tbe  Straiia  8. 
Donato.  which  includes  the  Univer- 
sity, the  Institute  and  other  similar 
c^itablishments,  was  formerly  the  Pa- 
laiio  Cellesi  It  was  built  by  Canii- 
nnl  Fuggi,  the  front  being  designed  by 
Pellegrino  Tibaldi,  and  the  fine  and 
imposing  court  by  Bartolommea  Tiia- 

leenth  Century.      It  was  purchased  in 
1714,   by  the   Senate   of  Bologna,  tu 


Newt 


(  fello> 


1  institute,  by 
■nd  of  Sir  Isaac 
of.the  Royal 


The  Palace  at  first  included  the 
Academy  of  Sciences,  or  tbe  Institulo 
delle  Selente  di  Bologna,  founded  in 
the  sevenloenlli  century,  by  a  noble 
youth  namod  Manfredi,  at  the  age  of 
'iieea,    irho  formed  a  literary  society 


t  Ms  bou 


mbled  tl 


'eall 


rials,  erect, 
ed  in  honour  of  illustrious  professors 
and  others,  nativea  nf  the  city  \  bat 
many  are  hardly  worthy  of  the  emi- 

meraorate.  Among  these  are  Galvani, 
by  Professor  Demaria,  after  the  design 
of  Calegari ;  Laura  Bassi,  by  Lippa- 
rlni;  Caetano  Monti,  by  Demaria; 
Clotilda  Tambrnni,  by  Pulti  ;  and 
Cavazioni  Zanotti,  by  the  brothers 
Tosclli. 

Tbe  Cabinet  of  Natural  Philoso- 
phy contains  some  fine  painlings  by 
Niocold  dell"  Abate,  engraved  at  Ve- 
nice in  1T5G.  llie  Anatomical  Mu- 
seum is  rich  ;  andtheratiouEbrauehes 
of  pathological,  general  and  obstetrical 
anatomy  are  well  illustrated  by  pre- 
parations and  wai  figures.  The  Natu- 
ral   History  Museum  is  well  supplied 


hioh  ii 


ing  fragments.      He  fir^  apart- 
belonging  to  the  sacred. 


othe  c 


well,  which 

tary  of  Paciaudi  on  tbe  "  Futeus 
Sneer;'  two  milestones  from  the 
.^myllBu  Way,  numbered  cc,  and 
CCKScvi.  ;  two  fragments  of  latercoli| 
or  military  legistera,  and  a  large 
number  of  sepulchral  tablets.  The 
second  cViambct  coiilMna  some  E-ai?- 
lian  aiul  EWuacan  aMA^^vliEa-,  wiqob.^ 


Papal  Siate$,'\  route  6.  -^  bologna.  —  Univerdty  Library.    39 


the  Imtter  is  the  celebrated  fragment 
of  the  engraved  plate,  or,  according 
to   Chev.   Inghirami,   of  the   mystic 
mirror,  called  firom  the  name  of  its 
first  possessor,  the   Cospiana  Patera. 
It  rejiresents  the   Birth  of  Minerva, 
who  issues  armed  from  the  head  of 
Jupiter,  while  Venus  b  caressing  him. 
The  names  of  the  figures  are  given  in 
Etruscan  characters.      Another  mirror 
represents,  not  engraved,  but  in  relief, 
Pliiloctetes   healed  by  Machaon,  the 
names  of  which  are  also  in  Etruscan 
characters.    The  following  are  worthy 
of  examination.    A  bronze  foot,  larger 
than  natural,  and  a  bacchic  vase  in 
marble,  both   found  in  the  island  of 
Capri ;  a  series  of  Roman  weights  in 
black  stone,  and  some  metal  weights 
of  the  middle  ages ;  among  which  is 
one  of  the  time  of  Charlemagne,  with 
the  inscription  **  Pondus  Caroli."    In 
the  third  chamber  are  some  architec- 
tural remains,  with  two  fragments  of 
marble    torsi,    the    one   of   a    Venus 
coming  out  of  the  bath,  the  other  of 
the   same   ffoddcss  on  foot ;   a  male 
torso,  attributed  to  Augustus,  found 
in   the  Via  di  S.  Mamolo ;   an  Isiac 
table  of  black   basalt,  found   on  the 
Aventine   in   1709,  and  an  elliptical 
▼ase  of  porphyry.     In  the  next  cham- 
ber are  works  afler  the  revival,  among 
which  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Boniface 
VIII.,  by  Manno,  a  native  sculptor, 
erected  by  the  Bolognese  in  1301 ;  it 
is   remarkable   only  as   showing   the 
state  of  art  at  that  early  period.  Some 
carved  ivories,  and  Majolica  plates  are 
worthy  of  notice.     ITie  Chamber  of 
Medals  contains  some  ancient  Roman 
coins,  Gri>ek  pieces  from  Sicily,  a  col- 
lection of  Italian  and  foreign  money, 
and   a  good  series  of  modern  medals 
of  sovereigns    and    illustrious    men. 
Tnerc    is   also   a   small  collection  of 
gems  among  which  is  the  MaiTei  agate, 
representing     Achilles    and    Ulysses, 
highly  prized   by   Professor    Schias&i 
and  other  archaeologists.     It  would  be 
an   omission   in   any  account   of  the 
mixquitivs  of  Bologna  if  the   ce\e- 
bnteti  I^tin  inscription,  discovered  in 
m/me  excavMtioos  of  the   city,  were 


unnoticed.  This  famous  riddle,  which 
gave  rise  to  so  much  learned  contro- 
versy in  the  seventeenth  century,  is  as 
follows :  —  "  D.  M.  ^LiA  Ljblia 
Caispf%,  nee  vir,  nee  mvlier,  nee  andro- 
gyna,  nee  pvella,  nee  jvvenis,  nee  anvs, 
nee  casta,  nee  meretrix,  nee  pvdica, 
sed  omnia ;  svblata  neqve  fame  neqve 
ferro,  neqve  veneno  sed  omnibvs,  nee 
coelo,  nee  aqvis,  nee  terris,  sed  vbiqve 
jacet.  Lvcivs  Agatho  Priscivs,  nee 
maritvs,  nee  amator,  nee  necessarivs, 
neqve  moerens,  neqve  gavdens,  neqve 
flens,  banc  nee  molem,  nee  pyramidem, 
nee  sepvlcbrvm  sed  omnia,  scit  et 
nescit  cvi  posverit.** 

The  University  Library  occupies  a 
building  constructed  by  Carlo  Dotti, 
and  added  to  the  Institute  by  Bene- 
dict XIV.  (Lambertini).  It  contains 
about  140,000  volumes,  and  9000 
manuscripts ;  of  these,  not  less,  it  is 
said,  than  20,000  volumes  were  pre- 
sented by  Benedict  XIV.,  who  also 
induced  Cardinal  Monti,  another  na- 
tive of  Bologna,  to  follow  his  patriotic 
example.  Among  the  printed  books 
are  the  following  :  the  first  edition  of 
Henry  VlII.'s  famous  book  against 
Luther,  Assertio  Septem  Sacramento^ 
rum  adversus  Martinum  Lutherum, 
Land,  in  (Edibue  Pynsonianis,  1512, 
dedicated  to  Leo  X.,  with  the  auto- 
graph signature  "  Henricus  Rex  :  *'  a 
LactantiuSf  printed  at  Subiaco,  1465. 
Among  the  MSS.  may  be  mentioned 
a  Lactantius,  of  the  fifth,  or  according 
to  Montfaucon,  of  the  sixth  or  seventli 
century ;  the  Four  Evanffdists,  in  Ar- 
menian, of  the  twelfth  century,  given 
to  Pope  Benedict  XIV.  by  Abraham 
Neger,  an  Armenian  Catholic ;  the 
Images  of  Philostrates,  in  the  hand- 
writing of  Michael  Apostolius,  a  Greek 
exile,  and  protegee  of  Cardinal  Bessa- 
rion ;  and  about  200  volumes  of  scien- 
tific MSS.  by  Ulisse  Aldrovandi. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  consider 
any  record  of  this  library  complete 
which  fails  to  commemorate  its  con- 
nexion with  one  oC  lY\eTtvcft\.ftTAtwi\^\- 
nary  men  of  ouTlimc,lVv«\alv£  Cw^vm\ 
Mczzofant'i,  who  comrcveviceA.\vN&^««'^' 
career  as  its  Aibtatian.    W«  "w**  ^ 


I 

logn 


R.  S. — BOLOGNA. — Pul^lc  Gai-dens;  Hospilals.    [[Sect.  t. 
of  a  humble  trudnanan  of 


t  Europe  for  his  knowledge 
of  languages,  even  whili!  he  filled  the 
chnir  ot  professor  of  Greek  aud  Oti- 
ental  literalure  in  this  university ;  but 
it  remained  for  llie  late  pope  (Gre- 
gorj  XVI.),  to  raise  him  fiom  the 
humble  dignity  of  an  abbf,  lo  the 
highest  honours  vhicb  it  tras  in  his 
power  to  confer.  At  the  age  of  thirly- 
sii,  Mei^olanli  is  said  lo  hnic  read 
twenty,  and  to  have  conversed  fluently 
in  eighteen  languages  -,  at  the  lime 
nf  his  death  in  1849  he  spoke  forty- 
two;  and,    from  personal  knowledge. 


tanical  and  Agiario  Gardene,  and  Ihe 

lelebralcd    Public  HospiUln.   'Tho  Botaniad  Gar- 

dtn  was  funned  in  1804,  on  the  site  of 

the  ancient  Collegio  Ferrcrio  de'  Pie- 


It  has 


^t, 


BcqUBl. 


only  with  modern  Engli 
but  with  the  literature  of  the  best 
period*  of  our  history.  Mczzofanti 
waa    called    to    Rome    by    the    lale 

Vatican,  under  Mat ;  and  when  that 
illustrious  scholar  was  made  a  car- 
dinal,  Meuofanti   was    raised   lo  the 

whiih  will  ever  remain  an  honour  to 
Gregory  XVI,  Perliaps  the  English 
traveller  may  desire  no  higher  evi- 
dence of  the  unequalled  powers  of 
Cardinal  Mezio&Qti  than  the  follow- 
ing extract  (torn  tlie  "  Detached 
Thoughts "  of  Lord  Byron.  "  I 
do  not  recollect,"  he  says,  "a  single 

to  see  twice,  eicept,  perhaps,  Mezzo- 
fanll,  who  Is  a  prodigy  of  language,  a 
Briarens  of  the  parts  of  speech,  a 
walking  library,  who  ought  to   have  j 

Bflbel,  as  universal  interpreter  ;  a  real 
miracle,  and  without  pretension  too. 
I  tried  him  in  al)  tlie  languages  of 
which  I  knew  only  an  oath  or  adjura- 
tion of  the  gods  against  postilions, 
EOVBges,  pirates,  boatmen,  sailors,  pi- 
lots, gondoliers,  muleteers,  camel  dri- 


o(  Pro. 

feasor  Scannagattl.  It  is  weU  managed, 
and  is  said  to  number  upwards  of 
jOOO  species.  Tho  Agrario  Garden, 
Orto  Asraria,  one  of  the  results  of  the 
French  invasion,  was  commenced  in 
1805  under  the  direction  of  Professor 
Re,  and  was  inlcoded  as  a  practical 
school  for  agricultural  students,  for 
whom  a  course  of  theoretical  and  ei- 
perimeutal  lectures  on  agriculture  are 
delivered.  The  idea  was  undoubtedly 
a  good  one,  particularly  as  the  Bo- 
lognese  territory  is  so  highly  cele- 
brated for  its  rich  cultivation  and 
fertility ;  but  this  branch  of  study 
tui fortunately  Is  not  obligatory,  and 
hence  the  lectures  of  the  agricultural 
professor  are  ill  attended.  The  leeture 
room  is  tlic  aucient  Palaiiina  della 
Viola,  formerly  the  vilU  of  Giovanni 
II.,  Bentlvoglio,  and  celebrated  for  Its 
superb  frescoes  by  tanaeenila  da  Imola. 
TJiese  fine  works  represent  Diana  and 
Kndymlon ;  Actson  metamorphosed 
into  a  stag  ;  Marsyas,  Apollo,  and 
Cybele.  There  were  origiually  other 
frescoes  by  Costa,  Chiodarolo,  Asper- 
tino,  Prospcro  FonUna,  and  Niccolo 
dell'Abate,  but  they  have  all  been  de- 
stroyed for  the  purpose  of  building 
additional  apartments.  The  history 
of  the  Palaitlno,  and  the  description 
of  the  paintings  of  Innocenzlo  da 
Imula,  were  made  the  subjects  of 
three  discourses  deUvered  by  Frofes. 
Eor  Giordani  in  the  Academy  of  Fine 
Arts  in  1GI3,  and  published  in  his 
works.  The  OspedaU  GrBsde  was 
founded  in  1667,  and  opened  In  IT25; 
tlie  clinical  cases  are  received  in  a 
separate  building,  near  the  university, 
called  the  OipedaU  AzzoUni,  from  the 
Senator  Francesco  Aiiolini,  by  whom 
it  was  founded,  in  ITOS,  tor  the  sick 
and  Infirm  poor  of  the  parish  of  8.  M. 
Maddalena,  In  the  Borgo  di  S. 
Giuseppe  is  ttie  Ospedale  di?  Scttua- 
gaiari,  far  the  aged  pujt  -,  Bui.  m  ^.^l« 


JPapal  StaiesJ}   lU  6. — bologna. —  Churches;  San  Stefano.   41 


ancient  Benedictine  Monastery  of  S. 
Procolo  is  the  OfpedaU  degli  Esposti, 
or  Battardinij  recently  enlarged ;  a 
measure  whose  necessity  is  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  that  the  proportion  of 
illegitimate  births  at  Bologna  has  not 
been  less  than  one-seventh  of  the 
whole  for  some  years  past.  Dr. 
Fraser  gives  us  the  following  note  of 
the  Ospedale  Grande  :  —  **  A  good 
hospital,  and  a  separate  building  for 
clinical  cases.  There  are  at  present 
five  hundred  students.  There  is  a 
large  collection  of  anatomical  figures, 
but  it  is  inferior  to  that  at  Florence. 
The  average  number  of  cases  of '  stab- 
bing *  admitted  annually  into  the  hos- 
pital is  five  hundred  1  This  fact  I 
could  hardly  have  credited,  if  it  had 
not  been  communicated  to  me  by  good 
authority,  viz.,  the  resident  bouse  sur- 
geon, who  told  us  after  we  had  become 
oommunicative  by  long  conversation 
on  professional  subjects,  adding,  that 
the  authorities  did  not  publish  the 
astounding  number.  If  true,  and  I 
certainly  have  no  reason  to  doubt 
my  authority,  it  is  an  important  fitct 
as  illustrating  the  morals  of  the  Bo- 
lognese." 

Churches,  —  Among  the  hundred 
churches  of  Bologna,  there  are  few 
which  do  not  contain  some  painting, 
which,  if  not  itself  a  masterpiece,  sup- 
plies an  episode  in  the  history  of  art. 
In  the  following  pages  we  have  given 
such  details  as  will  enable  the  traveller 
to  select  and  judge  for  himself,  amidst 
the  multiplicity  of  riches ;  at  the  same 
time,  the  student  must  bear  in  mind 
that  there  are  none  from  which  he  will 
fail  to  derive  instruction. 

The  most  ancient  church  in  Bologna, 
and  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  charac- 
teristic in  Italy,  is  that  of  San  Stefano, 
formed  by  the  union  of  seven  churches 
or  chapels.  It  is,  moreover,  remark- 
able, not  only  for  its  Greek  frescoes  of 
the  twelfth  and  thirteenth  centuries, 
but  for  its  ancient  tombs  and  ma- 
donnas, its  miraculous  wells,  its  Lom- 
bard mrchitectur^  Gothic  inscriptions, 
mnd  other  relica  which  carry  the  ima- 

guuuioa  vividly  hack  to  the  early  ages 


of  the  church.  In  what  is  called 
the  first  church  (del  Crocifisso)  is  a 
painting,  by  Teresa  Muratori  and  her 
master,  Guiseppe  Dal  Sole,  representing 
a  father  supplicating  St.  Benedict  to 
intercede  for  his  dying  son.  The 
Banzi  chapel,  in  which  is  the  marble 
sarcophagus  containing  the  body  of  the 
Beata  Giuliana  de  Banzi,  is  called 
the  second  church.  The  third,  del 
Santo  Sepolcro,  is  a  round  building, 
supposed  to  have  been  the  ancient 
Lombard  Baptistery.  The  marble 
columns  are  said  to  have  been  derived 
from  a  neighbouring  temple  of  Isis. 
The  upper  gallery  has  long  been 
closed;  but  the  well  for  immersion 
sufificiently  proves  its  original  destina- 
tion. The  marble  sepulchre,  with  its 
ancient  symbols,  was  erected  to  receive 
the  body  of  S.  Petronio,  who  is  said 
to  have  given  miraculous  qualities  to 
the  water  of  the  well.  The  ancient 
Greek  paintings  on  the  walls  will  not 
fail  to  attract  the  attention  of  the 
traveller ;  they  are  full  of  nature  and 
expression,  but  many  of  them  have 
unfortunately  perished  or  been  injured 
in  recent  years.  The  fourth  church,  de- 
dicated to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  is  sup* 
posed  to  have  been  the  old  Cathedral, 
founded  by  S.  Faustiniano,  a.d.  SSO. 
It  contains  a  remarkable  Crucifixion, 
by  Simone  da  Bologna,  known  also  as 
Siraone  dai  Crocifissi,  from  the  ex- 
cellence with  which  he  treated  this 
subject ;  it  bears  his  name,  "  Simon 
fecit  hoc  opus."  There  are  some  ara- 
besques and  an  Ionic  capital  in  this 
church,  apparently  antique.  The  Ma- 
donna and  Child,  with  St.  Nicholas 
and  St.  John,  is  by  Sahbatini.  The 
St.  James,  St  John,  and  St.  Francis, 
is  referred  to  Lippo  di  Dalmasio,  This 
church  has  small  round  windows  in 
the  nave,  and  has  some  general  resem- 
blance to  our  old  Norman  architecture. 
The  fifth  is  formed  of  the  cloister, 
called  the  Atrio  di  Pilato.  It  has 
two  rows  of  galleries ;  the  upper  one 
is  very  elegant  wvA.  coTi\'^oi&^^  o*^  «dl,- 
tique  columns  Aetwe^  ^totcv  V>cv^  'Yeo^- 
pie  of  Isis,  \vV\\cV\  wc  to>i\X<i^  '^^^^ 
fanciful  capila\«,  com^os^^  ol  xixsyc\&Va 


♦2 


BOTttE  5.  -^  nOLOCJCA.  ^-  OOhe/traK 


[Sect.  r. 


supporting  amilt  circular  atclies,  over 
wliich  i-.  a  Trieie  with  other  whiiiD^ical 
ornaments  dT  ihesame  kind.  The  an- 
cient  Greek   froscon  or  this  church 

tlonna,  left  here  by  a  coiii|isny  of 
English  pilgrims  about  a.  n.  HOO, 
may  interest  the  EngViah  traveller. 
TheS.  GlralamoBtloriDgtheCruciai, 
with  the  Msf^dalen  aud  S.  Francis,  is 
attributed  to  Fr./VoRcu.  InthesmaU 
cortiU  is  a  targe  marble  vase  or  font, , 
bearing  an  inscription,  recording  the 
namea  of  Luttprand  and  llprand, 
kings  of  the  Lomliards,  and  ofBarbito, 
bwhop  of  Bologna.  An  adjoining 
Hall,  constructed  by  Benedict  XIV., 
recalls  the  ancient  *^  CompHgnia  de* 
Lomhardi,"  founded  in  tlTO,  and 
numbering  in  Its  annals  almost  all  the 
illustrious  names  in  the  history  of 
Bologna.  The  keys  of  the  gates  of 
Imota,  captured  a  second  time  by  the 
Bolognesc  in  1 229,  are  preserved  there. 
The  sixth  church  ( I  Confessi)  is  a  kind 
of  cr}-pt,  and  is  remarkable  only  for  lis 
ancient  bas-reHels,  and  at  cuntaijiing 
the  bodies  of  two  native  saints  and 
martyrs,  Vitale  and  Agricahi.      The 


itioncci  a! 


Temple  , 
occupying  ll- 

Tht  CalhidraC,  dedicated  lo  St. 
Peter,  ii  a  very  ancient  fbundation, 
but  it  has  been  several  times  rebuilt. 
The  present  Gne  edifice  was  begun  in 
1605;  the  front  and  some  of  the  cha- 
pels were  added  In  I7^S  by  the  ex- 
cellent Fope  Benedict  XIV.,  from 
■      '    "        .f  TorreggianL     The  in- 


nthe   Coiir 


,  style. 


tseSect. 


Mad' 


n  the< 


is  said  tt 


been  placed  here,  in  4BS,  by  S.  Gio- 
condo,  bi^op  of  the  diocese.  The 
seventh  church,  called  la  SS.  Triniti, 

of  ancient  art,  some  of  which  are  re- 
garded OS  contemporaneous  with  S. 
Petronio.  ITie  St.  Martin,  bishop, 
praying  for  the  restoration  of  a  dead 
child  to  life,  is  by  Itoriaf.  a  repetiti'jn 
of  the  same  subject  painted  for  the 
church  of  S.  Rooco.  The  S.  Ursula, 
on  the  wall,  is  by  Si'DOue  da  Bologna  i 
and  the  Holy  Trinity  is  by  Saaae- 
cAi'ni.  This  church  is  celebrated  for 
its  relica,  among  which  ore  tbe  bodies 
of  forty  martyrs,  brought  by  8.  Petro- 
nio from  Jerusalem.  Outside  these 
churches  arc  two  marble  sarcophagi, 
appropriated  in  former  times  by  the 
Oral  and  Bertueoini  femiliea;  one  of 
Ibem  U  least  is  an  ancient  Christian 
""rei^/H^us,  and  is  an  iaierestliigielie. 
fa  aa  adjacent  portico  is  an  inacrip- 
"aa  reeurding    the    e»is(ence  of   the 


arranged  and  imposing  I 
In  the  End  chapel  on  the  lelt  is  pre- 
served among  the  relics,  the  skull  of 
S(.  Antu,  presented  in  I4.S5  by  King 
Henry  VI.  of  England  to  the  Blessed 
NiccoU  Albergati.  In  the  3rd  chapel 
ia  the  fine  work  of  Graiitati,  a  native 
painter  of  the  seventeenth  century, 
representing  St.  Peter  consecraling  Rt- 
Apollinare  i  a  commission  eiecuted 
for  Benedict  XIV.,  who  was  so  much 
pleased  with  it  that  he  ordered  a  repe- 
tition for  the  Apollinare  at  Rome. 
Cardinal  Giovanetti,  archbishop  of 
Bologna  in  I7BS,  is  buried  here.  In 
the  4ih  ohapel  is  the  St.  Peter  com- 
manding Pope  Celestino  to  elect  8. 
Pelronius  bishop  of  Bologna,  by  Bi. 
gari ;  and  the  Holy  Family,  and  the 
frescoes  of  S.  Pancras  and  S.  Fetro- 
nius,  by  Franceichixi,  painted  in  his 
eightieth  year.  The  5th  chapel  eon- 
tains  tlie  urn  of  bronze  gilt  adorned 
with  lapis  lazuli,  containing  the  body 
of  the  martyr  S.  Froclus,  presented  by 
Benedict  XIV.,  in  1745.  TheSaerUfy 
contains,  among  other  works  of  more 
or  less  merit,  the  Cnicifiiion,  by  Sag- 
nacatraUoi  paintings  by  the  Zamttti; 
and  the  St.  Peter,  in  the  fisherman's 
dress,  mourning  with  the  Virgin  for 
the  death  of  the  Saviour,  a  strange  in- 
tention of  Lodovico  Caracci.  The  6th 
cftapel,  designed  by  Uomaiico  TUtai^ 
contains  a  fine  picture  designed  by 
Fiorini  and  coloured  by  Aretuaij  re- 
presenting our  Saviour  giving  the 
keys  to  St.  Peter,  in  tbe  presence  of 
the  twelve  apostles ;  and  the  cele- 
brated painting  of  the  Annuneiaiion, 
the  last  work  of  Ladocieo  Caracd. 
The  toot  of  ttve  Hig,e\  teuira^  'm&ia 
the  Virgin  WMttliViBCiiKiVE4,aQi"A 


Pigml  States.^    b.  6.**bologna. — Churcltes  ;  SanPetronio.  43 


is  related  that  when  the  aged  artist 
made  the  discovery,  he  offered  to  de- 
fray  the  expense  of  re-erecting  the 
scaJfTold   in  order  that  he  might  re- 
touch it,  but  the  request  was  refused, 
and   Lodo?ico  died  of  grief  and  cha- 
grin a  lew  days  after.     In  1830  the 
error  was  corrected  by  Prof.  Fancelli, 
who  was  employed  to  clean  and  restore 
the  paintings  in  this  chapel  and  in  the 
Sacristy.     Returning  towards  the  en- 
trance, the  chapels   of  the   opposite 
side  remain  to  be  examined.    The  first 
of  these  is  worthy  of  observation,  as 
it  was  here,  and  not  in  S.  Petronio,  as 
Vasari  believed,  that  the  ancient  Gar- 
ganelli    chapel,    painted    by   Ercole 
Grande  of  Ferrara,  existed  ;  some  re- 
mains   of    these  pictures   were   pre- 
sented by  the  Tanari  family  to  the 
academy,   and    have    been  for  some 
years  in  England.     The  chapel  of  the 
SS.    Sacramento  contains  a  work  by 
Dimati    Creti  which  has  been   much 
admired  :  it  represents  the  Virgin  in 
the  clouds  with  the  infant  Saviour,  S. 
Ignatius,  and  angels.    The  gilt  bronze 
ornaments  were  designed  by  Torreg- 
giani  at  the  cost  of  Benedict  X 1 V., 
then  Cardinal  Lambertini,  and  arch- 
bi&ho])  of  this  his  native  city.     In  the 
Baptistery  is  a  finely  composed  and 
beautifully  coloured  painting  of  the 
Baptism   of  our   Saviour,   by  Ercole 
Graziani.     On  St  Peter's  day  some 
fine  tapestries  are   exhibited    in  this 
ctmrch,  executed  at    Home  from  the 
desif«ns  of  iiaphael  Mengs,  and  pre- 
sented by  the  same  poutiflT.  The  Sub- 
terranean  Church  below  the  choir  is 
curious  :  it  contains  numerous  relics, 
and  some  works  of  art,  among  which 
is  that  by  Alfonso  Lomhardo  represent- 
ing the  two  Marys  weeping  over  the 
dead  lM>dy  of  Clirist. 

The  Church  of  San  Petronio^  the 
largest  in  Bologna,  and,  though  un- 
finvihcd,  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  remarkable,  is  a  fine  monument 
of  the  religious  munificence  which 
characteriseil  the  ]>eriod  of  Italian  free- 
dom. It  was  founded  in  1390,  while 
IkfJcgim  wMS  a  republic,  the  architect 
Arsriy  Antonio  Viccium  or   Vincenzi, 


celebrated  as  one  of  the  sixteen  12t- 

formaiorif  and  as  the  ambassador  of 
the  Bolognese  to  the  Venetian  Re- 
public in  1S96.  The  original  plan 
was  a  Latin  cross,  and  if  the  building 
had  been  completed,  it  would  have 
been  more  than  one  hundred  feet 
longer  than  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  Of 
the  exterior,  a  small  portion  of  its 
height  alone  is  finished,  and  of  the  in- 
terior little  more  than  the  nave  has 
been  completed.  In  spite  of  these 
drawbacks,  San  Petronio  is  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  the  Italian  Gothic 
of  the  fourteenth  century.  It  is  al- 
most a  museum  of  sculpture,  and  its 
rich  pointed  windows,  although  sadly 
mutilated  and  transformed,  still  retain 
their  rich  mouldings  in  perfect  pre- 
servation, as  may  be  seen  on  the  sides 
of  the  building.     The  three  canopied 

!  doorways  of  the  unfinished  facade  are 

I  pure  and  interesting  examples  of  the 
late  Italian  Gothic ;  they  are  covered 
with  bas-reliefs  representing  various 
events  of  scripture  history  from  the 
creation  to  the  time  of  the  apostles, 
and  are  ornamented  with  busts  of  pro- 
phets and  sibyls  which  recal  the  taste 
and  design  of  Raphael.  The  centrcU 
doorway  and  its  bas-reliefs  were  justly 
considered  the  masterpiece  of  Jacopo 
dalla  Querela,  and  were  entirely  com- 
pleted by  his  own  hand  They  must 
be  carefully  studied  to  appreciate  their 
details  ;  there  are  no  less  than  thirty- 
two  half  figures  of  patriarchs  and  pro- 
phets, with  the  Almighty  in  the  midst ; 
five  subjects  from  the  New  Testament 

I  in  the  architrave,  and  five  from  the 

:  Old  Testament  on  each  pilaster,  from 
the  creation  to  the  deluge.  Over  the 
architrave  are  three  statues  as  large  as 
life,  the  Virgin  and  Child,  San  Pe- 

<  tronio,  and  St.  Ambrose.  It  is  re- 
corded that  this  amiable  artist  was 
commissioned  to  execute  this  door  for 

.  the  sum  of  3600  golden  florins,  the 
lleverenda    Fabbrica    providing    the 

'  stone ;  Vasari  says  that  he  devoted 
twelve  years  to  lUtt  wotV.^  «l\\^  \X\aX  >Xa 

;  completion  fiWed  lVv<i  "BoXo^w^vAd  VvOei 
astonishment.      The  Ujt  doorxDa^j  \%^^ 

I  markablc  for  l\\e  atv^d*  aa^  s\>a^\^  «^ 


ii 


BOUTB  6.  —  BotoojTA.  —  Sofi  PetTbtdo.  tSect.  1- 


the  anh.  bj  Triliolo,  well  known  as 
Ihc  ttie-aA  o(  BEDvenulo  CelUni.  who 
]>«  left  an  unusing  record  of  liim  m 
his  mtal  enlerlaining  oT  biogmphieB. 
Of  tbe  four  subjects  on  the  left  pilasier 
■be  first,  th[rd,  and  fourth  nre  b;  Trl- 
bolo,  OS  veU  as  the  fourth  on  llie  right 
pllaat«rf  supposing  the  spectator  to  be 
lookinE  at  the  door.  Tribolo  was 
issUted  in  these  works  Uy  Seccadennri, 


1    de'    Hossi 


the  I 


ofllie  eUrestory,  the  eitensive  doming 
oS  (be  vaulLs,  the  shallowness  of  the 
side  aisles,  tbe  heavy  capitals  which 
surround  tbe  piers  and  half  piers  like 
H  band  of  leaves,  and  the  squareness 
of  the  piers  with  their  nook  shafts; 
all   these  serve  to  make  a  wide  dis- 

ihose  of  the  genuine  Gothic  ;  and  they 
L'ly  found  so  completely  united 


Sappho;  and  by  Cioli  and  Soloameu, 
pupils  of  SansDvioo.  The  three  other 
sulijeots  un  the  tight  pilasler  are  by 
Alronso  Lombardo,  and  represent  dif- 
ferenl  events  of  Ihe  Old  Testament,  i 
Tlie  second  subject  oF  the  left  pilsster,  \ 
representing  Jacob  giving  bis  blessing  , 
Xa  Isaac,  is  by  an  unknown  artist.  , 
Under  the  arch  is  the  superb  sculp' 
turc  of  the  Resurrection,  by  Alfonso  . 
Lnoibardo,  praised  by  Vasari,  and  ad- 
mirable for  its  simple  dignity  and 
tnilh.       The  right  doancay  is  another', 

Tribolo.  The  angels  of  the  arch,  the 
sibyls,  and  the  eight  subjects  from  the 
Old  Testament  nn  the  pilasters,  are 
by  ibis  muter.  Under  Ihe  arch  is 
the  group  ofNieodemus  with  the  dead 
body  of  Christ,  by  Amieo;  the  Vir- 
gin, is  hy  Tribolo  I  and  the  St.  John 
the   Evangelist,  by   Ercole   Secuade- 

The  interior  of  San  Petronlo  is  par- 
ticularly Imposing,  and  never  bils  to 
etcite  regret  that  it  has  not  been  com- 
pleted on  its  original  extensive  plan. 
Some  fault  might  be  found  with  the 
proportions  of  the  edifice,  and  tbe  iron 
ties  which  hold  together  the  principal 
arches  are  a  serious  dlsAgurement ; 
but  the  slie  and  petuliat  simplicity  of 
the  design  produce  an  elFeet  which 
reminds  the  English  traveller  of  the 
purer  Gothic  of  the  north.  "  It  pos- 
sesses in  a  high  degree  the  various 
peculiarities  which  characterise  the 
arrangements  of  the   Italian    Cotliii 


n  Italian  church 


On  entering  the  church,  tbe  o! 
meuis  in  relief  round  the  great  d< 
way  are  by  Francesco  and   Pcti 


Tadoli 


side  di 


■aa-relie6  by  Lombardo, 
representing  (ho  Annunciation,  tbe 
other  Adam  and  Eve  in  paradise,  for- 
merly attributed  to  Tribolo.  In  the 
chapels  on  the  right,  there  are  several 
objects  to  ongoge  attention.  The  5nd 
is  (he  chapel  of  the  Pepoli,  so  cele- 
brated in  the  history  of  Bologna ;  and 
some  of  the  pictures  contain  portraits, 
it  is  said,  of  dilFerent  members  of  that 
illustrious  ftimlly.  The  painting  ul 
the  Almighty  has  been  attributed  to 
Gttido  I  but  it  was  more  probably  re- 
touched by  him.  The  paintings  on 
the   lateral  walls,    wilh  their    Gothic 

ousi  one  of  Ihe  female  figures  pray- 
ing on  Ihe  right  wall,  bean  the  in— 
'     InghiUtra  ft  fa. 


eof'Cruc 


repainted,  it  is  said,  by  Franetsco 
Francla!  the  Madonna  underneath  is 
referred  to  Tiarini.  6Ih  —  St.  Jerome, 
by  ZjiTCHzo  Cusfd,  the  pupil  of  Francia, 
spoiled  by  retouching.  Bth  —  the 
marble  ornaments  of  this  chapel  were 
designed  by  Vigjtdla,  and  are  said  to 
-  ■■       -     ■      ,  of  his  si-    --'- 


as  architect  to  the  church  through 
the  jealousy  of  his  rival  Ranuccto. 
The  St.  Francis  Is  by  MialefUfo ;  and 
the  St.  Antony  isising  the  dead  man 
to  liberate  the  father  who  is  unjustly 
condemned,  is  by  Lorinzo  Fasindli. 
.  .  „,  -.._  „._..., 9th— CbapeVot  Ss^-XnloPl  of  Padua, 
'yj/f  circles  which  occupy  tbe  space  \  The  nmrbVo  sxaWe  ol  >iie  ?ai\«  w  \it 


>e  wide 
whose  span  equals  (he  breadth  of  the 
nsvef  (he  abseaee  oft}ie  trifbrium  and 
of  the    clerestory  string,   the    great 


Pii^^  Sialtes7\  R.  6.— bologna. — Churches;  San  Petronio.   45 


The  miracles  of  the  Saint, 
punted  in  chiaro-scuro^  are  fine  works 
by  Girdhtmo  da  Trevis'o.  The  windows 
of  painted  glass  are  celebrated  as 
having  been  coloured  firom  the  designs 
of  Michad  Angdo,  10th  —  the  large 
painting  of  the  Coronation  of  the 
Madonna  del  Borgo  S.  Pietro,  and  the 
beautiful  fresco  opposite  it  are  by 
Francesco  Bnzzi,  a  fiivourite  pupil  of 
the  Caracci :  he  commenced  life  as  a 
journeyman  shoemaker,  and  became 
the  principal  assistant  of  Lodovico. 
II th  —  The  superb  bas-relief  of  the 
Assumption,  in  marble,  by  TribolOf 
formerly  at  the  high  altar  of  the  Ma- 
donna di  Galliera.  The  two  angels 
by  the  side  are  by  Prnperzia  de*  Rossi, 
The  walls  of  this  chi4>el  support  the 
entire  weight  of  the  Campanile.  At 
the  high  altar  the  two  marble  statues 
of  St.  Francis  and  St.  Antony  of 
Padua,  are  by  Girciamo  Campagna, 
and  were  formerly  in  the  church  of 
S.  Francesco.  14th  —  Chapel  (left). 
Sta.  Barbara  beheaded  by  her  father, 
considered  the  best  work  of  Tiarini. 
15th  —  the  Arcliangel  Michael,  by 
Calvarl  (  Fiammingo),  which  explains 
the  celebrated  picture  by  his  pupil 
Guido  in  the  Capuchins  at  Rome. 
16th  —  St.  Roch,  larger  than  life,  a 
portrait  of  Fabrizio  da  Milano,  by 
JParmegiano,  one  of  his  best  works ; 
copied  as  a  study  by  Lod.  Caracci. 
17th  — the  Chapel  and  Tombs  of  Ba- 
jocchi  and  his  wife  Eliza,  sister  of 
Napoleon,  with  a  beautiful  altar-piece 
by  Costa,  Madonna  and  Saints.  19th 
—  the  Annunciation,  and  the  twelve 
Apostles,  among  the  finest  works  of 
Costa,  and  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Se- 
bastian in  his  earlivr  manner.  The 
Magdalen  by  FUippo  Brizzi,  The 
pavement  of  earthenware  dates  from 
the  earliest  times  of  its  manufacture. 
On  the  pilaster  of  this  chapel  is  a 
statue  of  S.  Petronius,  generally  be- 
lieved to  be  the  most  ancient  likeness 
of  that  saint  extant,  but  it  has  been  so 
altered  by  frequent  restorations  that 
little  probably  of  the  original  counte- 
imoee  now  remains,  20th  —  the  fa- 
mous jminiings  of  the  Magi,  and  of 


the  Paradiso  and  Inferno  on  the  oppo« 
site  wall,  formerly  attributed  to  Giotto, 
Malvasia,  in  his  Felsina  Pittrice^ 
attributes  the  first  of  these  works  to 
VitaJe  and  Lorenzo,  and  the  others  to 
Buonamico  Buffalmacco,  to  whom 
Vasari  also  refers  them.  It  has,  how. 
ever,  been  proved  by  the  discovery  of 
the'  will  of  one  of  the  Bolognini  fa* 
mily,  to  whom  the  chapel  belongs, 
that  they  were  executed  subsequently 
to  1408 ;  while  Buffalmacco  and  the 
other  artists  above  named  were  all 
dead  previous  to  1390,  the  year  in 
which  the  church  itself  was  begun. 
Although,  therefore,  they  are  interest* 
ing  illustrations  of  the  history  of  art, 
it  is  certain  that  no  trace  of  their  true 
author  has  yet  been  discovered.  22  nd 
—  the  head  'of  S.  Petronius,  removed 
here  by  order  of  Benedict  XIV.,  from 
the  other  relics  of  that  saint  in  S.  Ste- 
fano,  is  preserved  in  this  chapel. 

On  the  floor  of  the  church  is  traced 
the  celebrated  meridian  of  Gian  Do- 
menico  Cassini,  178  Bolognese  feet  6§ 
inches  long,  substituted  in  1653  for 
that  of  P.  Ignazio  Danti,  and  corrected 
in  1778  by  £ustachio  Zanotti ;  a  sci- 
entific monument  which  does  honour 
to  Bologna.  It  was  in  this  church 
that  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  was 
crowned  by  Pope  Clement  VII. 
The  halls  of  the  Reverenda  Fabbrica, 
adjoining  the  church,  contain  a  highly 
interesting  series  of  original  designs  for 
the  still  unfinished  fa9ade,  by  the  first 
architects  of  the  period.  Algerotti 
has  pointed  out  the  advantage  it  would 
be  to  art  if  a  selection  of  them  were 
published,  with  a  brief  description  of 
their  history.  It  Is,  however,  satis- 
factory to  find  that  they  have  been  pre- 
served :  they  form  a  precious  collection, 
the  value  of  which  will  not  fail  to  be 
appreciated  by  every  architectural  stu- 
dent. Three  of  these  are  by  Palladio ; 
another  bears  the  following  inscription 
in  his  own  hand,  **  Laudo  il  presente 
discgno,"  and  has,  no  doubt  erron- 
eously, been  attributed  lo  \\vwv»  'Wi^t^ 
are  two  by  VigwoVa,  oiv^  \i^  CTvafiW^^ 
Ranuccio,h\s  f^rcal  t\N«\, 'w\vv^^«t'^*'^ 
only  to  prove  Yiis  mfefvorvx^  \  wv^'^l 


46    BODTEe.— BOtOthiA.— C»«W^«,-  5'a»lDo»j«i(co.   nSect.T.  ' 

Domeniio  Tilmldi ;  tbrpe  by  Baldas-  I  sal  bronze  stoiue  of  Pope  Jiiliui  II., 
Mre  Peruzii ;  one  lij  Giuliii  Romano  |  cieccili^d  by  MiL-bael  Angela,  after  <Le 
Kild  Crisloforo  Lombardo,  ntchilect  of  reranciiiBtion  of  Iheir  quarrel  on  the 
the  Calliedral  nt  Milan  ;  one  by  Giro-  '  subject  of  the  Mows,  The  Pope  at 
limo  Rainaldi  j  one  by  Francesco  bis  own  request  was  represented  irilh 
Terribilia,  which  received  the  approba-  a  sword  in  his  left  hand.nndm  the  ait 
tion  of  the  senate  in  1580,  and  vos  nf  reprimanding  the  Bolognese  with 
published  by  Cicognara  in  the  Plates  his  right.  But  this  great  tnaslcrpieco 
10  his  HLslury  of  Sculpture;  one  by  i  lasted  only  livcyears.  In  151 1,  on  the 
"■    '  ine  by  Giacomo  di  An-  ^  return  of  Benlivoalio,  it  was  hroken 

niginei  ime  by  Alberto  ,  up  by  the  people, 


■tberti,  of  Borgo  San 

*  by  unltnown  arlisls.      Over  the 

BDCe  door  is  the  noble  marble  bust 

KCouni  Guiiio  Pepoli,  by  Fn/periic 

',  supposed  to  be  Ibat  ordered 

n  Aleuaudro  Pepoli,  to  prove 

rcTB     of    that     Bitraordinary 

itioiied  by  Vasarr.      In 


(  The    Sacriitif 

to  pictures,  representing  vari- 
.3  in  tbe  history  of  S.  Petro- 

Ferrsri,  Francesco  Coionna.  Mauoni. 
and  others. 
Jinmedialelf  belbre  (lie  great  door 
■j**"  "/lumii  stood  tliat  fHinous  eolos- 


«aK  sold 


weighed  i7,3G 
to  the  Duke  of  Perrala,  wno  converted 
it  into  a  piece  of  ordnance,  under  Iho 
appropriate  name  of  the  Ju'ian.      It  is 

which  wili  ever  ho  deplored  by  tbe 
loTera  uf  art,  that  when  Michael  An- 
gelo  a^ked  the  warlike  pontiff  whether 
he  should  put  a  book  in  his  left  hand, 
he  replied,  "  A  book  I  no  ;  let  me 
fn^isp  a  sword;   1    know   nothing  of 


rhioh    . 


before  proceeding 
treasures  in  the 


deserve  etami 
to  the  still  £ 
church  itself.      These  a] 
S.  Domenico,  in  copper  gilt,  made  at     i 
Milan    in    1639;     the    Madonna   del 
Rotario,  by  Giulio  Ceeate  Conventii 
and  two  sepulchral  monuments.one  the    < 
tomb  of  the  learned  jurist  Itolandino    • 
Passaggeri,  who,    while   holtling    the 
office  of  town-clerk,  was  selected   to 
write  the  answer  of  the  Ilepuhlic  to 
the  haughty  letter    of  the    Emperor 
Fiederiik  II..  demanding  tbe  release    ' 
of  hisson.  King  Enzius.    The  other  is 
the  tomb  of  the  noble  fiimily  of  Fos- 

Egidio  Foscherari,  in  1289.     Its  rude 
bas-reliefs  appear  to  he  more  ancient 
than    this    date.      Both    tombs   stand    , 
under  canopies,  supported  by  columns,    1 
and  were  restored  in  ]  83S,  at  tlie  ex- 


r.  Gin, 


teppt 


Schia 


ThiChurch.  celebrated  » 
the  tnmbsof  St.  Domenie.the  founder 
of  the  Inquisition,  of  King  Ennus,  of 
Taddeo  Pepoli,  and  of  Guido.  is  aa 
rich  in  woits  of  art.  as  it,  m  inAWttl- 


Papal  States."}  R.  6. — ^bologna. — Chttrches;  San  Domenico.  4fY 


ous  names.     The   Tomb  of  San  Do- 
menico, the  early  triumph  of  the  genius 
of  AVceo/0  di  Pisa,  forms  in  itself  an 
epoch  in  the   history  of  art,    which 
ought  to  be  closely  studied  by  every  ', 
one  who  desires  to  trace  the  progress 
of  sculpture  from  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury.  This  great  master,  who  has  been 
justly  called  the  precursor  of  the  re* 
rival,  did  not  complete  the  pulpit  at 
Pisa,  until  thirty-five  years  later  than 
the  date  of  the  present  work  (1225), 
and  consequently  we  may  regard  this 
as   the   foundation   of  a  new  era    in 
art.      The  bas-reliefs  by  Kiccolo  di 
Pisa  represent  various  events  in  the 
history  of  the  saint  and  miracles  per- 
formed by  Ikim  ;  they  are  full  of  cha- 
racter and  truth.     The  knight  thrown 
from  hb  horse  and  brought  to  life  by 
St.  Domenic   in   the  presence  of  his 
family,  who  are  deploring  his  death  ; 
and  the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  in  hea- 
ven, presenting  St.  Domenic  with  the 
constitutions  and  baton  of  the  order, 
are  among  the   most   remarkable   of 
these  graceful  compositions.     Below 
them  is  another  interesting  series  by 
Al/oHMO    Lombardo,     executed     three 
centuries  later,  and   not   superior  in 
delicacy  or  feeling.     The  statue  of  S. 
Petronio,  on  the  tomb,  is  a  youthful 
work  of  Michad  Anydoy  as  is  likewise 
the  exquisitely  beautiful  angel  on  the 
left,  now  made  to  hold  a  very  indif- 
ferent candlestick.      It  is  recorded  in 
the  city  annals,  that  the  great  artist 
received  twelve  ducats  for  the  angel, 
and  eighteen  ducats  for  the  statue  of 
S.  Petronio !    The  other  angel  and  the 
patron  saints,  France<iC»  and  Procolo, 
are,  according  to  Vasnri,  by  Niccolo 
deir  Area:  the  Saint  John  Baptist  is 
tai<l  to  l>e  by  Girohimo  Cortellini.    The 
architecture  of  this  (tht?  sixth)  chapel 
is  proved  by  the  archives  of  the  con- 
vent to  be  the  design  of  Terribilia ;  the 
first    picture  on    the  ri^i^ht  hand,  tlie 
Child  brought  to  life,  is  one  of  the 
master|)ieces  of  Tiarini,  and  was  much 
admired  by  I^xiovico  Caracci.     'l*he 
great  picture,  representing  the  Storm 
at  Sea,  in  which  St.  Domenic  is  saving 
the  Mailan  praying  to  the  Virgin  ;  the 


knight  thrown  from  his  horse,  and 
brought  to  life  by  St  Domenic ;  the 
stories  in  the  lunettes,  and  the  grace- 
ful figures  representing  the  virtues  of 
the  saint,  are  by  Mastelletta.  The 
fresco  on  the  roof,  representing  the 
glory  of  Paradise,  with  the  Saviour 
and  the  Virgin  receiving  the  soul  of 
the  saint,  amidst  the  music  of  the 
seraph  in,  is  by  Guido.  "  In  the 
highest  circle  of  the  dome,  a  soft 
radiance,  emanating  from  the  Holy 
Spirit,  illuminates  the  picture,  touch- 
ing with  partial  lights  the  heads  of 
our  Saviour,  of  Mary,  and  the  Saint, 
who  are  placed  at  equal  distances, 
while  a  choir  of  angels,  exquisitely 
designed  and  finely  coloured,  fills  the 
space  below.  The  composition  of  the 
whole  rises  in  a  fine  pyramidical  form, 
harmonising  at  once  with  the  subject, 
and  the  proportions  of  the  dome."  — 
Bell.  The  Saint  burning  the  books, 
of  the  converted  heretics,  a  fine  and 
expressive  picture,  is  esteemed  the 
masterpiece  of  Lionello  Spada. 

The  other  chapels  of  this  church 
present  additional  objects  of  interest : 
1st,  the  Madonna,  called  <*  Del  Vel- 
luto,"  by  Lippo  Dalmasio.  Srd,  St. 
Antoninus  with  the  Saviour  and  the 
Virgin  appearing  to  St.  Francis,  by 
Faciniy  the  pui)il  of  Annibale  Caracci, 
who  praised  his  skill  in  painting 
flesh  ;  below  it  is  a  Virgin,  attributed 
to  Francesco  Francia.  4th,  St.  An- 
drew the  Apostle  preparing  for  his 
martyrdom,  by  Antonio  Rossi.  9th, 
St,  Catherine  of  Siena,  by  Francesco 
Brizzi.  10th,  St.  Thomas  Aquinas 
writing  on  the  subject  of  the  cucha- 
rist,  with  two  in<!pirinor  angels,  by 
Guercino.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
Sacristy  is  the  monument  erected  by 
the  Clementine  Academy  to  the  me- 
mory of  General  Count  Marsigli,  the 
founder  of  the  Institute,  whose  patri- 
otic zeal  for  the  welfare  of  Bologna, 
and  whose  connection  with  the  science 
of  England,  have  l>een  noticed  in  a 
previous  page.  The  V\\^\\  «\V'aL\  \vm» 
the  fine  piclute  V^y  Bartolommeo  Ce«\> 
the  Adoruliuu  oV  \,W  "^V^i^^v.  '^^^ 
statues   of  the  cY\oVt  ^xc^iuX.  «.^  *'^'*^* 


teresling 
£fteentb  c 
Bergamo, 


B.6. — ^ozoavA. — Chttrt^gf  SanDomatfeo.      t^ecbt.' 


leresling  eiample  of  (orji'a,  of  the 
ifteenlh  century,  bj  Fra  Damiatio  da 
~  imo,  asiisled  by  Fra  Antonio 
;Ui,  both  Donieiiicui  monk« ;  the 
■ubjects  are  tnken  froni  tlie  Old  and 
New  TeslBDients.  The  inih  chapel 
-jl  remarkable  for  tbe  tomb  of  King 
"ua,  the  unforluiiaie  son  of  the 
.  Emperor  Frederivk  II.,  mode 
□er  by  the  Bolognese  in  1S49, 
nKnined  here  in  captivity  for 
!nty-two  year^  until  hia  death  in 
II  bears  tbe  followhig  inscrip- 
vbich  the  haughty  republic 
ikea  the  record  of  iia  royal  captive 
inch  higher  compli- 
itself: 


'  '  imh,  the  adjoining  chapel  (Mth) 
mtiuiia  the  marble  sarcophagus  of 
Taddea  Pepoli,  the  celebrated  repub- 
licu)  ruler  of  Bulr^na,  by  the  Vene- 
tian artist  Jacopo  Lanfranl,  dated 
1397.  The  sculpture*  on  its  ftont 
represent  Pepoli  rendering  justice  to 
bis  fellow -citiieus.  The  allar-piece, 
with  St.  Michael,  S.  Domenico, 
and  other  saints,  is  by  Fmncticn 
Francia.  15th,  the  Chapel  of  the 
Relica ;  among  ihe  other  relics  here 
preserved  is  the  head  of  S.  Domenic, 
in  a  silver  case  of  IMlhs.  weight, 
the  joint  expense  of 
t  XI.,  and  Cardinal 
The  body  of  the 
da  Ulmo.  the  cele- 
linter,  whose  portrait  by  Bel- 
front  oT  (he  adjoining  ahapel, 

iKintunent  of  Xing  Enziua  is  the  por- 
■    if  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  by  Siraone 
1  Bohgna,  proved  by  the  annats  of 
trder  to  be  an  original  and  au- 
ic  likeness.       17th,  the    Annun- 
ciation, by  Ca;aart(Fiammingo).  igth. 
This  magnificent  chopel,  dedicated  to 
tbe   Madonna    del    Rosario,    cantaina 
two  taiabs  wbicb  inspire  very  diflerent 
^IJiiSs  S-om  that  of  tbe  founder  of 


Inquisition,  or  those  of  Kijig  En- 
.  and  the  Pepoli:  they  are  those 
of  Guidoandbi^fatourite pupil,  Elisa- 
bella  Siraoi,  who  died  of  poison  in  her 
ity-siith year.  Thechapelcontains 
■ies  of  small  paintings  repreaenting 
fifteen  mysteries  of  the  Kosary  j 
the  Presentation  in  the  Temple  is  by 
Calvarl  (Fiammiogo);  the  Desoenlof 
the  Holy  Spirit,  by  Cai  i  the  Visita- 
tion, and  tbe  Flagellation  of  the 
Saviour,  are  by  Lod,  Caracci ; 
Assumption  is  by  Cnii/a.  Thestat 
over  the  altar  are  by  ^njicb  Fid  .-  the 
painting  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist 
is  by  Ginieppt  MaTtAai.  The  ceil- 
ing, painted  in  i656,  is  an  able  work 
of  Miehttii  Anfftbi  Cotonna  and  Agot' 
tiHD  WiteU'  I  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  in  the  tniddle,  i«  particu- 
larly fine.  In  the  vestibule  of  one  of 
the  side  doors  is  the  fine  tomb  of  the 
celebrated  jurisconsult.  Alessaudra 
TartHgni,  surnamed  I'lmolesc,  by  the 
Florentine  sculptor  Francesco  dt  Si- 
mone ;  and  opposite  is  that  of  tbe 
Volta  fomily,  with  a  marble  EtaCue.ef 
S.  Proculo,  by  Laliaro  Casarlo.  Sj 
Chapel,  St.  Kaymon  crossing  tbe  n 
on  his  mantle,  by  Lad.  Caracci,  am 
ther  fine  work,  which  sernes  to  prove 
the  originality  and  invention  of  this 
remarkable  painter.  23d.  This  chapel 
contains  a  bust  of  S.  Fdrppo  Neri, 
from  a  cast  taken  after  death. 

Tbe  Sacritttf  has  also  some  pictures 
and  other  objects  of  interest ;  the 
Birth  of  the  Saviour,  or  ■«  La  Notte," 
by   LtKa   Cangiasi,  is  considered    bj 


f  the 


lallet 


painting  preserved  in  the  academy, 
while  others  regard  it  as  a  copy.  The 
Paschal  Lamb  is  attributed  to  Giorgio 
VataH.  The  S.  Girolamo  is  by  Li' 
nmello  SpadO'  The  tanit  of  the  closeta 
and  of  the  entrance  door  are  by  the 
artists  who  executed  those  of  the 
choir.  The  lai^  statues  of  the  'Mr- 
gin  and  of  San  Domenico  are  of  cy- 
press wood,  and,  according  to  Ihe 
verses  inscribed  underneath,  w 
carved  out  of  a  tree  which  S.  Do- 
menico KimseW  had  planted, — one 
those,    ^ei\ia^  ■■\ivct    '?.-se\'3Ti. 


Pcpal  Staies.2  R«  3. — ^bologi^a* — Churches;  San  Domenico.  49 


growing  at  the  period  of  his  visit,  in ' 
the  quadrangle  of  the  convent.  It  is 
remlurked  by  a  recent  traveller,  that  it 
was  an  appropriate  tree  for  the  founder 
of  the  Inquisition  to  have  planted, 
and  he  deserved  a  statue  sculptured  of 
the  wood  of  that  gloomy  and  funereal 
tree. 

The  Cloisters  of  the  adjoining  con- 
vent of  San  Domenico,  the  first  of 
which  is  supposed  to  be  that  built  in 
1231  by  Niccolo  di  Pisa,  are  remark- 
able ibr  their  inscriptions  and  ancient 
tombs.  Among  these  are  to  be  noticed 
that  of  Gio.  d* Andrea  Calderini,  the 
work  of  the  Venetian  Jacopo  Lanfrani, 
in  1238;  and  that  of  Bartolommeo 
Salicetti,  by  Andrea  da  Fiesolc,  in 
1412.  There  is  still  preserved  here  a 
portion  of  a  painting  by  Lippo  Dal- 
mash,  representing  the  Magdalen  at 
the  feet  of  Christ,  which  Malvasia  de- 
scribes as  his  earliest  public  work ;  in 
one  comer  is  a  fragment  of  an  inscrip- 
tion . .  ,hnaxi  f.  Near  it  is  a  Cruci- 
fixion, with  S.  Lorenzo  presenting  a 
Doctor  kneeling ;  it  bears  the  inscrip- 
tion Petrux  Jckania  (Pietro  di  Gio- 
vanni Lianori  ?),  and  is  a  very  beau- 
tiful specimen  of  art  of  the  fourteenth 
century.  On  leaving  the  convent, 
under  the  portico  built  by  Niccola 
Barella,  leading  up  the  Via  di  S. 
Domenico,  on  the  left  hand,  is  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  with 
St.  John,  by  BagimcavaUoy  an  interest- 
ing work,  much  admired  by  Guido, 
■nd  yet,  such  are  the  riches  of  Italy 
in  art,  it  is  quite  exposed  to  the 
street. 

In  connexion  with  the  Domenican 
Convent,  the  BiUioteca  Comunale,  or 
Magnani  I^ibrary,  remains  to  be  no- 
ticed. This  library  consists  chiefly  of 
the  collections  bequeathed  to  the  city 
by  the  learned  ecclesiastic  Antonio 
Magnani,  formerly  librarian  of  the 
Scientific  Institute;  who  has  by  will 
especially  provided  that  this  library 
fchall  be  available  on  those  holidays 
and  festas  when  every  other  is  closed : 
the  number  of  books  is  said  to  be  up- 
wards of  90/XX),  Mnd  it  is  continually 
iaeremsing  by  the  muniBcenco  of  the 


city  authorities.  Besides  its  literary 
treasures,  the  lover  of  art  will  not  fail 
to  appreciate  and  admire  the  superb, 
though  unfinished.  Deposition  from 
the  Cross,  by  Federico  Baroccio,  said 
to  be  his  last  work :  it  is  hardly  sur- 
passed in  effect  and  composition  by 
any  production  of  that  great  and  esti- 
mable painter. 

The   elegant  Church   of  S.   Barto^ 
lommeo  di  Porta  Ravegnana  was  com- 
menced in  1653,  on  the  site  of  a  more 
ancient  building  erected  in  1 530,  from 
the  designs  of  Andrea  da  F(Mrmigine, 
at  the  cost  of  the   Prior  Gozzadini. 
The  original  site  was  occupied  by  an 
ancient  church  built  in  the  fiflh  cen- 
tury by  S.  Petronio  on  the  foundations 
of  a  subterranean  church  of  the  early 
Christians,  traces  of  which  were  visi- 
ble when  the  present  edifice  was  com- 
menced.    The   portico  of  Formigine 
is  still  preserved,  and  the  bas-reliefs  of 
its   pilasters,   the  work    it  is  said  of 
Lombard  sculptors,  are  well  worthy 
of  observation.      The  church  contains 
some  interesting  paintings ;  in  the  2nd 
chapel  is  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  kneeling 
at  the  tomb  of  Varallo,  by  Lod.  Ca^ 
raeci.     4th,  the  Annunciation,  signifi- 
cantly called  "  del  bell'  Angelo,"    a 
beautiful    and    expressive    work     ot 
Albani ;  by  whom  also  are  the  lateral 
pictures  representing  the  Birth  of  the 
Saviour,  and  the   Angel  warning  Jo- 
seph to  fly  out  of  Egypt.     7th,  "  The 
altar-piece,   by    Franceschini,    on  the 
Martyrdom   of    St.  Bartholomew,    a 
grand  but  horrible  picture,  yet  less 
savage  than  the  statue  of  Milan  on 
the  same  subject,  as  here  at  least  the 
actual   representation    of    torture    is 
spared.     The  saint  is  tied  and  drawn 
!  up   high  on   a  tree  for  sacrifice  ;  two 
i  ferocious  figures  are  seen  tightening 
'  the  ropes,  while  a  third  is  deliberately 
,  preparing  to  excoriate  one  of  his  legs, 
i  where  a  little  blood  appears,  but  there 
only."- — Bell,     9th,  the  Madonna  and 
'  Child,     bequeathed    by    the     Canon 
'  Matteo    Sagaci,   is  a  small  on«\^  Vj 
I  GuidOi  an  ei(\u\s\\.e  axvOi  low^^vcv^v^- 
ture.     12th,  S.  \iiXoivS  o^  V«A>3L»^>a^ 
]  Tiarini,     \3tYi,  lY\e  ^t.  \SwX\\o\q^^^  * 

1> 


HonfB  e.  — BtttOGWA, —  CSure^es.  IS'ect'f. 


t  klUT-picce  of  Ihe  oM  churcli,  i 

'   tui.  from  Ihe  designs  of  Sab 

The  freiciHs  representing  th 

■  in  Uie  life  of  S.  Caetano  nr 

y  fha  pupili  of  Ciynani,  enecutedii 

~i   moDthB    from    the   doigna,   am 

)   said   to  have    retouched    them 

e  roof  uf  the  cliurch  iras  painlei 

*  CaliMHa,   nlio   is  uid  to  hoTe  re 

KTsd   ID    payment   the   Sd    chagiel 

"  ;   abo    decorated    \ 


hia 


rrA  of  S.    Barlolimmto  di 

arkable  for  some  fine  vorks 

If  the  Caracoi.      In  [he  <Stb  chapel  is 

ivilj',    by    Agostino    Caracci, 

It  the  age  at  twenty-seven,  in 

__  _       The  "two   Prophets  on  the 

Tttult  of  the  chapel  are  by  the  >ame 
muter.  The  two  admirable  pictures 
or  the  Circumcision  and  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi  nre  by  Led.  Caraed ;  the 
ln»t  of  these  has  been  engraved  by 
'  nniiwle  The  marble  omBments  are 
f  Galtritii  Fiorini,  Ihc  ton  of  the 
The  4th  chapel  (Capella 
haggiore)  conUios  a  miraculous 
•mage  of  the  Virgin,  of  very  high  an- 
nuity, called  "La  Midonua  della 
wggiH,"  On  Ihe  wall  opposite  the 
'  -1  leading  to  the  orslury  Is  a  large 
indacape  in  oil,  the  only  example  in 
Hinting  of  the  co[)pcr-plnIe  eogravi 


The 


Sartbolor 


^  Tit  CAkt 


story  c, 


I  the 


1   good   work   of 

k  af  S.  RrnedetUi  bos,  in 
n  cnapel,  the  Marriage  of  St. 
■ine  in  the  presence  of  John  the 
_.  .      It,  Sa  Jerome,  Mauro,  and  Pla- 
lido,  by  Lutin  Massari,  a  pupil  of  the 
i  and  the  friend  and  fevourite 
n  of  Albani.      In    the   2nd, 
i   tbur    prophets   are   by    Giacomo 
^vedont.      In   the   4ih,  8.  Antonio 
bate,  beaten  by  demons  and  consoled 
"■    ■  ■  e  beautiful  "  Charity," 

gi  aiul    the  Virtues  of 
nl  the  Father,  are  also  by  Cavedone. 
Franeesco  di  Paola,  by  Ga- 
immt!m,  called  aJso  G.  dagU 
OecJiUn,  one  of  the  niaslers  of  Guido. 


7th>  S,  Antonioi  by  Cfivtdnne. 
the  Virgin  holding  the  crown  ot 
thorns,  and  converiing  wilh  the  Mag- 
dalen on  her  son's  death,  a  touching 
and  eipreffiive  work  of  Tiarini;  by 
whom  are  also  the  prophets  and  the 
angeU  on  the  side  walls.  In  the  Sa- 
cristy is  the  beautiful  picture  of  the 
Cniclfiiion,  with  the  Virgin,  the 
Archangel  Michael,  and  St.  Catherine, 
by  Gh.  Andrea  Si'rani,  retouched  by 
Guido,   formerly    ' 


1 


uppri 


sed  Chm 


n  Mar 


TAt  Church  della  CarilA.  hclonging 
10  a  convent  of  Franciscans  suppressed 
in  I79S,  and  converted  Into  a  military 
hospital,  conlabis,  in  the  1st  chapel, 
the  eelebrated  Visitation  by  Galuaina 
(Baldasiare  Aloisio),  so  much  eitolled 
by  Malvaaifl.  whose  enthusiasm  is 
sUo  canilnnedby  the  praises  of  Lanii. 
Galanioo  was  one  of  the  ablest  pupils 
and  a  relative  of  the  Caracci ;  hut  hia 
Ibrtune,  says  Lanii,  was  nor  eijusl  to 


tists  of  01 


nany  ai 


of  the  art.      He  1 

was  long  at  the  head  of  portrait  point- 
ers in  that  caplul.  The  3rd  chapel  ' 
contains  Ihe  picture  of  St.  Elizabeth, 
queen  of  Hungary,  in  a  swoon  at  the 
Saviour's  appearing  to  her,  an  able 
work  by  Francmhini.  At  the  high 
allar  is  the  Virgin  and  Child,  Charity 
and  St.  Francis,  another  joint  work  of 
noriai  and  Aretiai.  Stb,  the  Virgin 
and  Child.  St,  Joseph  and  St  Antony 
of  Padua,  by  Felice,  bod  of  Carta 
Cignmi.  6th,  Sta.  Anna,  by  SlUniB 
the  Elder  (Gio.  Maria  Galli). 

The  ancient  Church  of  Sta.  CecOia, 
once  celebrated  for  its  frescoei  by 
Francla,  Costa,  and  other  early  painb 
era  of  Bologna,  was  ruined  by  the 
French)  but  it  still  exhibits  many 
interesting  fragments  tor  study.  The 
following  enumeration  of  the  subjects. 


,  Them 


le  lett  hj 


Ihpal  States,']      route  6.  —  bologna.  —  Churches. 


51 


tbe  ikith  by  St  Uri>an,  Pope,  by  Lor, 
Quia,  3.  The  baptism  of  Valerian, 
by  Giaeomo  FraHcia(?y,  4.  The 
Angel  crowning  the  betrothed  Saints 
with  garlands  of  roses,  by  Chiodaralo. 
5.  The  brothers  Valerian  and  Tibur- 
tius*  breaded  in  the  presence  of  the 
prefect.  6.  Their  funeral.  7.  Sta. 
Cecilia  and  the  prefect :  these  three 
subjects  are  by  i^mtco  ^JU9er/int.  8.  Sta. 
Cecilia  placed  in  the  boiling  bath,  by 
Giaeomo  Franeia,  9.  The  wealth 
distributed  by  the  Saint,  by  Costa, 
10.  Her  funeral,  a  yery  graceful  com- 
position, by  Francesco  Franeia. 

The  Chwreh  of  the  Celestini,  with  a 
fiifade  from  the  designs  of  Francesco 
Tadolini,  has  in  its  1st  chapel  one  of 
the  best  works  of  Lttcio  Maesari — the 
Saviour  appearing  to  the  Magdalen  in 
the  form  of  a  doTe.  The  painting  at 
the  high  altar,  representing  the  Virgin 
and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist,  St. 
Luke,  and  S.  Pietro  Celestino,  is  by 
FranceMchini,  The  sacristy  and  the 
cloisters  of  the  convent  were  designed 
by  the  TadolinL 

The  Church  of  the  Corpus  Domini, 
called  also  Delia  Santa  from  Sta.  Gate- 
rina  Vigri  of  Bologna,  is  attached  to 
the  vast  Franciscan  nunnery  of  the 
same  name.  The  frescoes  of  the  cu- 
pola, the  roof  and  the  walls,  are  able 
works  by  Marcantonio  Francesehini, 
assisted  by  Luigi  Quaini,  the  cousin 
of  Carlo  CignanL  1st  chapel,  St. 
Francis,  with  a  fine  landscape,  by 
CWiNir/ (  Fiammingo).  4tb,  the  Saviour 
appearing  to  the  Virgin,  with  the  Pa- 
triarchs ;  and  the  Apostles  engaged  in 
the  burial  of  the  Virgin,  described  by 
Malvasia  as  '*  la  prima  di  maniera  de- 
licata,  la  seconda  terribile,"  are  fine 
and  interesting  works  by  Lotiovico 
Caraeci.  The  Virgin  and  Child,  the 
myhtcries  of  the  Rosary  which  sur- 
round them,  and  the  two  large  Angels, 
are  by  (iiuseppe  Mazza,  by  whom  arc 
also  ttie  bas-reliefs  of  tlie  high  altar. 
the  high  altar-piece,  representing  the 
Last  Supper,  is  a  celebrated  work  by 
Marcantonio  Francesehini,  Cth,  the 
Resurrection  is  m  copy  of  the  £unous 
picture  by  JnHt'bale   Caraeci,  which 


was  stolen  by  the  French  and  never 
returned.  Through  a  window  in  this 
chapel  may  be  seen  the  blackened 
body  of  Sta.  Caterina  Vigri,  sitting 
in  all  the  pomp  of  dress,  and  decorated 
with  a  crown  upon  her  head.  8tli, 
the  Annunciation,  by  Francesehini, 
whose  masterpiece,  the  Death  of  St. 
Joseph,  is  in  the  next  (9th)  chapel, 
the  ceiling  of  which  is  painted  in 
fresco  by  the  same  hand. 

The  Church  of  S.  Cristina,  attached 
to  the  Augustine  Convent,  is  decorated 
with  paintings  executed  almost  entirely 
at  the  expense  of  different  nuns.  The 
Ascension,  at  the  high  altar,  by  Lodo- 
vico  Caraeci,  was  painted  for  the  M adre 
Buttrigari ;  the  Nativity  and  the  Jour- 
ney of  the  three  Magi  in  the  1st  chapel, 
by  Giaeomo  Franeia,  were  also  ordered 
by  one  of  the  nuns ;  and  others  gave 
commissions  for  the  six  figures  which 
occupy  the  niches  between  the  pilas- 
ters. Among  these,  two  are  peculiarly 
interesting,  the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul, 
the  production  of  Guido  in  his  early 
youth. 

The  Church  of  S,  Giaeomo  Mag-- 
giore,  belonging  to  the  Augustine  her- 
mits, who  have  possessed  the  site  since 
1204,  was  founded  in  1267,  enlarged 
and  vaulted  in  1497,  but  never  com- 
pleted. Some  of  its  existing  details, 
however,  are  interesting,  as  illustra- 
tions of  early  Italian  Gothic.  The 
doorway,  said  to  have  been  erected  at 
the  expense  of  the  Bentivoglio  family, 
has  a  canopy,  in  which  the  shafts  sup- 
porting it  rest  on  lion  bases,  and  the 
lateral  compartments  have  each  a  large 
painted  window,  with  tracery,  which 
lights  the  side  aisles.  Its  immense 
vaulted  roof  has  been  much  praised 
for  the  boldness  of  its  structure.  The 
paintings  in  the  different  chapels  are 
the  chief  objects  of  attraction.  In 
the  1st  cha])cl,  the  small  fresco  of  the 
Virgin,  "  della  Cintura,"  is  by  Franeia, 
4th.  nie  Fall  of  St.  Paul,  by  Ercoh 
Proeaccini.  5th.  Christ  appearing  to 
S.  Gio.  da  S.  Facondo,  by  CavedonCy 
who  also  pamled  t\ie  ^v\t&  vi^\%.  ^^. 
The  Virgin  lYirotved^  ^xxttowyv^^  >oi 
John   the   BaplUl,   ^1.  ^V.^\^\«:cv^  ^'^'^ 

D  1 


^!^S 


m 


•  toe  wk,  br  gini»M»w 

;  m»A  pnwd  bi  Uw  C«. 
"-      AInit    b»li»«'iog 

1^  b^  PnHp^o  Fimlatia,  Btb. 

'    [C   of  Sc   Cuhcnac,   in 

r    of  JoiepliT   John    the 

Juhn  Uu  EvinsclHt,  by 

I    /niv^,  Jiwlly  called  an 

■  KidfuUv*,'  fur  it  U  almcHl 

r  oT  iImI  gnot 

llalltUy.  un  this  gndinu  under- 

'     ■nntlier  IwauliTuI   iwork  of 

4id*lmala.     lOdi.  St.  KoEh 

wilh  tlic  pUicu*,  aiid  eninforled 

a  angal.  by  iMdimlte  Caratci ,  the 

'     ibovp,  and  tlic  uints 

by  FiBMttm  Briiti. 

Til*  (bur  Evan|tali<t>  and  the 

"■  "   '  B  Church  arc  by 

Tkt  cclvbratcii 

I  Mlehu.1.  I>y  lili  able  but  im- 

U  whoUr  Calvart  (  FutiiKningo), 

rcluuchud  by 

lit  nwrlt   «■»■  «   much 

id  bf  Aiputlnu  Caracci.  timt 

•dli.    lath.  Ttiuphuiici  ..r 

|i  Auilllf,  dunigniHl  hj  I'elle- 

baljl.  -h*  atta      ' 

Mlu  llii  Uii)ilUin  uf  uur  Lord,  wu  ; 

UtiMl  by  ^mptra  thmhimi,  by  il«< 

r  'niMlili.     llir  Donilwrtiiwnti ' 

roof  an  alui  tliw  wurks  of 

I'h*  (riiid  {lU'lurt'  of  St.  j 

■IbK<  ■"'J  *hal  in  Ulkwtra- 

'  Many  ani  «ll«l.  bul  Aw  tn  ' 

ar«   by    fWlivrJM    lUaiW  .-  j 

ClutnuiMliH-d  by  ittHI  power 

■odttiMi  and  «i|>r«ialau.   and 

to  Imt*  bwHi  much  kludjed  by  ' 

,..   _iiu  nuuiihvd,  , 

*  wUh  ihi.  uib«r  work*  of  Ti.  ' 

»  itw  (iillwrv,  by   Buialtt,  tit 

iMtt.    Itio  ^'intlu.  Willi  St. 

M   anrt    Si.    I.uuy.  and   ihv 

>   itinivnt  brktv.  u  bv  (\iinir 

"'*'"«"V    Ulh.  Tlw  \"irsin  and 

'  Itw  air,  o-lih  S&  Cu««o  aiut 

>  Wluvr,  and  ihr  ponnit  of 

■•  *\Wn«  t^ntily,  ttatront  of 


The  Cmdttina  bean  the  Mine  of 
Simamt  Ida  Bokigai).  wilh  the  dale 
137a  ISIh.  Tbe  celebraled  cbapel 
of  the  Benliioglu  faniily,  the  andatt 
lord*  of  B<Jeina  ia  her  high  Md 
palmy  dayi,  a,  *M  manv  accounta,  thfl 
moa  inleietting  in  thii  church.  Th« 
Virgin  and  Child,  with  four  angel* 
lUid  four  ■ainia,  is  one  of  the  most  ce- 
lebtaled  work*  of  PnnKoco  Frouu, 
"  paiuler  to  Giavanni  II.  Bentin>' 
f^lia."  The  lignature  of  this  glo- 
rious old  maMer,  whose  works,  u  va 
bare  elsewhere  remarked,  have  otJy 
lately  been  appreciated  in  Ergland,  ii 
"  Fraticiwus  Francia  aurifei."  a  prool 
tbal  he  had  aot  then  (1490)  abui- 
doned  bis  early  profesMOD  of  a  gold- 
unith.  The  pietS  above  is  also  attii> 
butud  to  this  maiter.  Ill  the  lunette, 
one  of  the  tiiion«  of  the  apocalypae  is 
by  Lomio  Cotia,  retouched  by  ^cKsc 
Cij/noHi,  who  piiinted  the  Annuncla* 
timi.  niefrescooflheVirginthn! 
wilh  Cio.  II.  BeutlvogUo,  and 
nuineruus  family  in  adoration,  inter- 
ealing  aa  ■  study  of  costume  and 
ractor,  is  hy  Lortaio  Coita,  Frantds'** 
able  acholar  (Has).  Tlie  alto-ieUera i 
of  Annibale  Bentivoglio  on  horsebadc  1 
is  by  f>'itroia  Ml' Area.  The  tvo  trtt 
umplia  in  lrc?wo  opposite  are  snpp 
by  tome  to  be  by  JVanci'a,  wbile  other*, 
allribuie  them  lo  Lomza  Catta.  TfaQ 
marble  bas-relief  of  Giovaimi  II.,. 
seen  on  one  of  the  pilasters  oF  thii 
chapel,  ii  said  to  have  been  sculptured 
by  Fnimmet  Fnacia.  IStli.  The. 
i'hlist  in  the  Earden  ;  and  ill 
HOth  chapel  the' St.  Peter,  St  PauU 
and  King  Sgismund,  sre  by  fnste 
Fratunii,  Slit.  The  Virgin,  vitb 
John  Iha  Oapl'iM,  S.  Francis,  and  S. 
Bwvdiel,  by  CM  one  of  his  nuKi  f .  ___ . 
iiig  work^  it  DOW  much  spoilt ;  Guidqi 
IS  said  Itk  have  speol  hours,  wb 
(ludvnl.  in  iho  coutvuplatioa  sf  thl* 
pictuf*.  (Vpiwil*  are  ib«  ntarfalc 
1  irf   Autunio   BcntiTagli 


Papal  Staies*2        route  6. — bologka. — Churches, 


53 


Aimibale  I.«  tnd  that  of  Niecold  Fava, 
Doctor  of  Philofiophy  and  Medicine, 
with  the  date  148S.    27th.  The  Mar- 
tyrdom of  St  Catherine,  by  Tiburzio 
PoMMerotti,  is  said  to  have  been  painted 
under  the  direction  of  his  father,  Bar- 
tolommeo,  of  whose  style  it  bears,  in- 
deed, abundant  evidence.     29th.  Tlie 
Presentation  in  the   Temple   is  the 
masterpiece  of  Orazio  Samacchini;  it 
was  engraved  by  Agostino   Caracci. 
The  lateral  figures  are  also  by  Samac- 
ehinL     S2d.  The  monument  to  Car- 
dinal Agucchi,  with  the  statues  and 
bat-reliefs,    are    by   Gabriefe   Fioriniy 
from  the  design,  it  is  said,  of  Do- 
menichino.     S5th.  The  Last  Supper, 
long  supposed  to  be  a  repetition  or  a 
copy  of  the  celebrated  picture  by  Ba- 
roeeia,  in  the  Church  di  S.  M.  sopra 
Minerva,  at  Rome.      Ghiselli,  in  his 
History  of  Bologna,  speaks  of  it  as  an 
oripnal,  and  a  few  years  ago,  on  clean- 
ing  it,  the  name  of  Baroccio  was  dis- 
covered.   The  frescoes  of  Melchisedek 
and    Elijah,   and  the  Angels   of  the 
ceiling,  arc  good  works  of  Cavedone, 
In  the  37th  chapel  is  a  miraculous 
crucifix  of  wood,  one  of  the  most  &- 
iDOus  in  Italy,  the  history  of  which 
can  be  traced  as  far  back  as  980. 

The  Church  of  San  Giorgio,  built 
by  the  Servite  Fathers,  contains  a 
few  interesting  pictures.  In  the  4th 
chapel,  S.  Filippo  Benizio,  kneeling 
before  the  Virgin  and  Child  in  the 
midst  of  Angels,  was  begun  by  Simone 
Cantarimiy  and  finished  in  the  lower 
part  by  Albani.  llie  St  George,  at 
the  high  altar,  is  by  CamiUo  Pro- 
eaeeini.  In  the  7th  chapel,  the  An- 
nunciation is  by  J.A)dovico  Caracci,  and 
the  graceful  paintings  underneath  are 
by  Camillo  Procaccini.  8tli.  The  Pro- 
batica  Piscina  in  this  chapel  is  also  by 
Ijodovico  Caracci,  1 1th.  The  Flight 
out  of  Egypt,  by  Tiarini. 

The  Church  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Monte, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Bologna, 
founded  by  St  Petronius,  in  433,  and 
rebuilt  in  1221,  was  completely  mo- 
demised  in  1824.  fHomeoflts  antique 
paintii?^  eontrmst  strangely  with  these 


recent  changes  and  decorations.     1st 
chapel.   The  Saviour  appearing  to  the 
Magdalen,  by  Giacomo  Francia,     2d. 
Tlie  Crucifixion,  by  Cesi.     Sd.   The 
St.  Joseph   and    St  Jerome,   in   the 
ovals  on  the  side  walls,  are  by  Guer* 
cino,     6  th.  The  Madonna,  placed  be- 
low Mazzoni's  picture  of  the  Libera- 
tion of  St.  Peter,  is  by  Lippo  Dalnuuio, 
7th.   The  Virgin  throned  with  Saints 
is  a  fine  work  of  Lorenzo  Costa,     8th. 
The  miraculous  figure  of  the  Virgin, 
originally  in  the  very  ancient  church 
of   S.    Eutropio,  was  formerly  cele- 
brated for  its  powers  in  curing  the 
sick  :  it  is  of  high  antiquity.     9th. 
The  S.  Ubaldo  Vescovo  is  a  fine  work 
of  Gio,  Battiata  Bolotpiini :  the  frescoes 
of  the  ceiling,  and  the  lunettes,  are 
either  by    Samacchini   or    Sabbatini. 
The  picture  at  the  high  altar,  repre- 
senting the  Virgin,  with  the  Almighty 
and  the  Saviour ;  and  John  the  Evan- 
gelist St.  Augustin,   St.  Victor,  and 
other  saints  below,  is  by  Lorenzo  Costa, 
Th'e  busts  of  the  twelve  Apostles  and 
the  two  Evangelists  arc  by  Alfonso 
Lomhardo;  the  tarsie  of  the  stalls  in 
the  choir  arc  by  Paolo  Sacca,  in  1 523. 
The  ancient  Madonna,  on  the  pilaster, 
a   fresco   detached    from    some   sup* 
pressed   church,    and   brought  hither 
for   preservation,    is    proved    by    au- 
thentic documents  to  be  anterior  to 
the  year  1000.     12th.  Tlie  divine  pic- 
ture of  Sta.  Cecilia,  by  Raphael,  now 
in  the  gallery,  was  the  altar-piece  of 
this  chapel  until  1796.      Beneath  the 
altar  is  buried  the  B.  Elena  Duglioli 
dair  Olio,  at  whose  expense  the  Sta. 
Cecilia  was  painted.    1 3th.  Tlie  figure 
of  the  Saviour,  carved  out  of  a  single 
block  of  fig -tree  wood,  is  attributed 
to  Alfonso  Lomhardo,      17th.    The  St. 
Francis,  with  arms  crossed  upon  his 
breast  adoring  the  crucifix,  which  is 
here     represented     lying     upon     the 
ground,  is  a  touching  and  powerfully 
expressive  work  by  Guercino.    The  ad- 
joining convent,  whose  cloisters  were 
designed  by  Terribilia^  \t\  \5Aft ,\\^?»\wX 
all  trace  of  lis  ancvcwX  Ti\?v\gcvv^cviW<i'i> 
and  has  been  coi\veTle<\  \wV,o  «k  \»x\^o^» 


F 


1779.  « 


BOUTE  6. — BOLOCti A. ^CAurtAes.  fSect-  !• 

iC  S,  Gngaria,  almost ,  ttiers,  n  cliHmker,  nov  converted  into 
lOwtlieearlbquakeofiB  chapel,  i«  sliown  us  tbat  in  wtiich  St. 
chapel,  one    Francis  vas  lodged,  in  153],  by  D. 
ings  of  Annibale '  Cirolsmo  CoEBliiii,  tlie  rector  of  thb 
Baptiim  of  church. 

The  Chnrch  of  the  Madonna  del  Ba. 
raamo  was  so  colled  from  e  Confra- 
ternity estHhlishcd  in  140S,  in  hooour 
of  the  miracLes  performed  by  a  picture 
of  Ihe  Virgin  painted  on  a  bastion  of 
the  city  b-bUb,  called  "  11  HHracejno 
diStratUSuiloStefano."  Oi-crlbeHne 
portico,  constructed  from  the  designs 
of  Agostino  Barella,  is  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin,  by  ^Tftnto  LopJmrdo.  At  the 
high  altar,  the  itiiracolonB  picture  of 
the  Virgin  bears  the  nameof/'muBHo 
Ctaia,  of  Ferrara,  vbo  repainted  it  in 
1450,  with  (he  addition  of  tvo  por- 
traits, of  Gio.  I.  Beiitiioglio,  and  of 
Maria  Vinciguerra.  The  frieze  of 
flowers  which  adorns  this  altar,  and. 
other  sculptures  of  the  chapel,  are 
graceful  works  by  Prupcriia  dc'  Renl. 
The  VirginandChUd,  with  SS.  Joseph 
and  Joachioi,  in  the  4th  chapel,  is  by 
Lacinia  FoH/n«a;  and  the  St  CaWio- 
line,  in  the  .5tli,  isby  PratptroFaimaa. 
The  Madontia  di  S.  Catcmbam  ia 
remarkable  for  being  covered  inter- 
nally by  irescoes,  paioted  by  tarioiut 
pupils  of  Lodovico  Carscci  as  an  oc- 
casion of  practice,  or  as  a  trial  of  skill. 
The  St.  Francis  on  the  right  wall  is 
by  ^HtoiiiD,  son  ot  Ago^'ma  Caracei  ,■ 
the  Virgin  and  Child,  with  Joseph 
gatbering  dates,  is  by  Spadar  the  Si- 
byl over  the  side  door,  and  the  Coro- 
nation of  St  Catherine,  are  by  Loraao 
Garbl/oi;  the  Sta.  Maria  conversing 
with  the  Saviour,  hetbre  whom  th 
Magdalen  is  kneeling,  is  by  Zmno 
MaHarii  hv  whom  are  also  Ihe  Sibyl 
over  the  other  door,  aud  the  angel 
bearing  the  palnk  of  martyrdom  to  Sta. 
Ursula;  the  iofiint  Saviour  playing 
with  St.  John  iu  the  presence  of  little 
angels,  is  by  Paoh,  brother  of  Lodo- 
vico Caracei,  who  gave  the  deiign.  In 
the  tipper  oratory,  the  frescoes  repre- 
senting the  Passion  were  all.  it  n  said, 
the  result  ofa  trial' of  skill  among  the 
joutvgei  pupils  of  flm  Cbiucev  ■,  among 
them,  the  fine  '(i^cnue  <A  Sft.  teVsi  s,**- 


if  Ihe  first  oil 

the  Saviour,  an  ^    _ 

3s  showing  his  early  power  of  compo- 
^tion,  and  the  influence  derived  from 
hit  (tudy  ofthe  Venetian  school.  In  the 
Bth  cbapel,  the  St  George  delivering 
the  Queen  from  the  Dragon,  with  the 
Arcliangel  Mlcbacl  above  pursuing  the 
demons,  and  likewise  the  grand  pic- 
ture of  God  the  Father,  are  by  Lodo- 
Vim  Caraixi.  The  high  altar-piece,  re- 
■ entingSt  Grcgory'sroiraeleofthe 

porale,  i»by  Calvart  (  Fiammingo). 

lut  Church  of  £,  Xeoiui»/D  contains, 
h  it!  l*e  ohapel,  the  superb  Annun- 
'  ^n,  by  Tiarisi,  in  which  the  Al- 

Ktbe  Hoi;  Spirit,  is  represented  as 

''-  "        ■  twer  of  the  Virgin  lo 

nt  of  the  angel.      The 

V-pieee,  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Ur. 

'a  the  Venetian  style,  and  the  St 

btberitie  in  prison,  converting  the 

'b  of  MaiimiBD  and  Forphyrus  to 

re  both  eicellent  and  in- 

g  works  by  Ladavico  Caracei, 

'  The  Church  of  Aa.I.w:iais,  perhaps, 

tis  literary 

ic  preserved  there,  than  for  its  works 

■Fart,  although  (here  are  several  pic- 

which   deserve  a  visit  j   among 

b  may  be  specified  the  Sta.  Lucia 

"■    .    Anna,  with  the  Virgin  and 

at  the  high    altar,  by    Ercoie 

xiti !  the  Death  of  St  Francis 

iwier,  considered  the  best  work  of 

Anlonio   BatBt-aldi,  in  the  6ih 

;    the  Virgin  and   Child,  with 

he  Baptist,   S.  Carlo,  and  Sta. 

a  by  Carlo   Clgnam,  iu  the  7th 

1 ;  and  in  the  Sacristy,  the  Cruci- 

m  hj  Laninia  FontoHa;  and  the  Jm- 

nilate  Conception,  one  of  the  first 

■:sofCa/ijort(Fiammingn),  while 

a  pupil  of  Sabbafini.    The  literary 

:  IS  a  long  tetter  written  by  St. 

knm  Xavier,  in  Portuguese,  which 

Wtxpoaed  iFitb  angular  homage  on 

^_«rti"Fa/  of  thai  saint.      In  the  ad-' 

T  college  of  llit  Barnabite  Fa- 


Papal  Siaies.2    route  6. — bologna. — Churches, 


B5 


ing  out  weeping  from  Pilate*s  house, 
by  Albami,  may  be  particularly  noticed. 
The  Virgin,  over  the  altar  of  this 
church,  is  by  Lippo  Dalmagio. 

The   Church   of   the    Machnna  di 
Galliera    contains    some    interesting 
paintings.      In    the   1st    chapel   (del 
Crocifisso)  the  frescoes  on  the  ceiling, 
representing  the  Death  of  Abel,  and 
the  Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  are  the  last 
works  of  Af.  Angdo  Coionna.     In  the 
Snd,  the  St.  Antony  of  Padua  is  by 
Girciamo  Donnini,  the   able  pupil  of 
Cignani.     In  the  3rd,  the  Virgin  and 
Child,   with  Joseph,  S.  Francesco  di 
Sales,  and  S.  Francesco  d'Assbi,  is  by 
Framceschinii  who  painted  the  frescoes 
of  this  chapel  with  the  assistance  of 
Lwgi    Quaint     The  4th,  or  Capella 
Maggiore,  contains  a  miraculous  and 
very  ancient  painting  of  the  Virgin 
and  Child ;   the  beautiful  figures  of 
the  angels  adoring  this  painting  are 
by  Giuseppe  Mazza,  a  clever  sculptor 
and  painter  of  the  last  century.      In 
the  5th,  the  Incredulity  of  St.  Thomas 
is  by    Teresa  Muratorit  celebrated  as 
much   for  her  talent  in  music  as  in 
painting ;  the  angels  in  the  sky  of  the 
picture,    frequently  praised  for  their 
delicacy  and  grace,  are  said  to  have 
been    added     by    her    master,    Gio. 
Giuseppe  Dal  Sole.     The  6th  chapel 
contauis    the  infant    Saviour    in    the 
midst  of  kis  kindred,  showing  to  the 
Almighty  the  instruments  of  the  Pas- 
sion, which  are  homo  by  angels,  by 
Albani ;  the  Adam  and  Eve  in  oil,  the 
Cheriibin,  and  the  Virtues,  in  fresco, 
are  by  the  same  master.     In  the  7th, 
is  the  S.  Filippo  Ncri  in  ecstasy,  by 
Guercino.      In   the   Sacristy,  the   St. 
I^ilip,  the  two  Beati  Ghisilicri,  the 
Conception,  and  the  S.  Francesco  di 
Sales,  are  by  Elisabetta  Sirani,     The 
Celestial  Ix>ve,  and  the  St  Elizabeth. 
Queen  of  Hunj;ary,  are  by  G.  Andrea 
Sirani.    The  Assumption  is  by  Albani. 
The  adjoining  oratory,  built  from  the 
designs  of  Torreggiani,  has  over  the 
entrance  door  a  fresco  of    the  dead 
Christ  shown  to  the  people,  by  Lodo- 
viro  Caracei. 

The  Afulomna  del  Soccorso  contains 


the  famous  picture  of  Christ  shown  to 
the  people,  by  Bartolommeo  Passerotti, 
the  eminent  master  who  improved,  if 
not  instructed,  Agostino  Caracei  in 
the  art  of  engraving,  whose  portraits 
were  considered  by  Guido  as  second 
only  to  those  of  Titian,  and  are  said 
by  Lanzi  to  be  often  shown  in  gal- 
leries under  the  name  of  the  Caracei. 
The  frescoes  of  this  church  and  oratory 
were  painted  gratuitously  by  Gioac- 
chino  Ptzzoli,  a  painter  of  the  seven- 
teenth century,  and  a  member  of  the 
order  to  which  the  church  belonged. 
In  the  5th  chapel  is  shown  a  miracu- 
lous crucifix,  formerly  in  the  sup- 
pressed church  of  St.  Francis,  which 
is  said  by  contemporaneous  documents 
to  have  spoken  to  Padre  Giovanni 
Peciani,  in  1242! 

Sta.  Maria  Maddalena  contains,  at 
the  first  altar,  the  Madonna,  S.  Ono- 
frio,  and  S.  Vitale  by  Tihurzioy  son  of 
Bartdommeo  Passerotti ;  and  at  the 
third,  the  St.  Francis,  and  St.  James, 
by  the  same.  The  "  Noli  me  tangere,'* 
in  the  Sacristy,  is  by  the  father.  The 
Virgin,  with  S.  Sebastian  and  S.  Roch, 
is  by  BagnaxiavaUo,  The  oratory  con«> 
tains  an  altar-piece  by  Ercole  Procacm 
cini,  cleverly  restored  by  Giovannini ; 
the  Archangel  Gabriel  and  the  Virgin 
by  Giuseppe  Crespiy  and  other  works 
by  his  two  sons,  the  Canonico  Luigi 
Antonio. 

Another  church,  called  also  La 
Maddalena,  contains,  among  other 
paintings  by  Bologncse  masters,  the 
St.  Catherine,  one  of  the  earliest  works 
of  Bartolommeo  Passerotti. 

Sta.    Maria   Magyiore,  one  of  the 
ancient  churches  of  the  city,  which  is 
proved  by  a  bull  of  Pope  Gregory  VII. 
to  have  existed  prior  to  5'A5j  contains 
some  fine  works  by  Tiarini.      At  the 
1st  altar,  the  St.  John  the  Evangelist 
dictating  to  St  Jerome  is,  in  spite  of 
the  anachronism,  a  pleasing  example 
of  this   master,     'ilie  1 1th  altar  has 
one  of  his  latest  works,  the  Sta.  Agata, 
Sta.   ApoUonia,    and    St.  ^tvtttw^  ^^ 
Padua.    .TV\si  lir^  «\Va.T  \\?ks>>  ^  Q.T^3^^i\^'«- 
of  fig-tree  wood,\»Vv\cYvVTA^v<vo^^\»x>i^ 
to  be  prior  lo  tW  '^c^lt  \Q^^.    '^'^'^^ 


I 


nOUTE  6 BOLOGIT A. -^C%Krc&»,  [Scct.  I. 

Mndoniui  and  Child,  n-Iili  tiilion  of  tliis  portrait  of  the  Grand 
lad  St.  Aotony,  by  Orazio  j  Monarqai  on  the  festlyals  of  the  Vir- 
somaccium.  The  7th  was  dworstcd  by  j  gin.  In  iJie  5th  ch.ipel  is  Bnotber 
Carlo  FnaccKo  Dotti,  at  the  eipenao  gift  of  Count  MalTono,  the  bust  of  S. 
of  Pope  Benedict  XIV.  Thc9th  haa  Carlo  Borroniea,  the  head  of  wbicb  is 
a  Virgin,  Child,  and  St.  John,  painted,  silver.  In  tbe  Sticristy  is  a  picture  of 
'  JS70,  by  Ereaii  Pncaccini,  and  re-  ,  S.  Eliglo,  attributed  to  ^HHibale  Ca- 
-  ifa«d  by  Cobdb/cd  Franuicliiai.  racci  (?).   and  in   the  oratory  is  the 

"le  Church  of  Sla.  Maria  (f'Un  masterpiece  of  Alfinixi  Lombarda,  ■ 
.  fiiunded  in  1360,  by  the  Beato  '  bas-relief,  representing  the  death  of 
lieroof  Perugia,  who  devoted  him- jibe  Virgin  in  the  presenee  of  the 
~-  ~'-ii  spot  to  the  relief  of  the  apostles,  whose  heads  are  said  to  bare 
entirely  remodelled  in  the  inspiredmanypaintersuftheBologcese 
century,  under  the  direction  of  schooL  TUe  Beato  KinlBro  healing 
)inL  In  the  2nd  ebapel  are  '  the  elcic  during  the  plague  is  by  Ca- 
red the  bones  of  the  Beato  iKi/anr,  whose  history  is  scarcely  less 
iDBparte  Ghialieri,  brought  here, ,  aRccting  than  that  of  Froperiia  de' 
TIS,  from  the  suppressed  clmrcli ;  Ros»,  and  other  artists  of  Bologna, 
S. ^Eliglo.  It  bos  been  well  oh- ,  whose  lives  form  so  ctriUog  an  episode 
such  a  name  seems  rather  in  the  calamities  of  painters.  Cave. 
I  the  annals  of  ambition  ,  done,  at  tbe  death  of  his  son,  was  so 
legends  of  saints.  The  ,  much  oppressed  with  grief  that  he 
the  inscription:—  |  lost  his   talent,  and  with  it  his  em- 

ployment ;  bis  old  age  was  passed  in 
beggary,  and  after  having  contributed 
so  much  in  early  life  to  the  decorstion 
of  the  churches  and  palaces  of  hia 
native  eiiy,  he  was  ullowed  to  die  in 

The  splendid  church  of  S.  MarHaa 
Maggiore  belonged  to  the  Carmelite 
Friars,  flrom  the  thirteenth  century  up 
to  the  period  of  the  French  invoiHon. 
Tbe  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  in  tbe  1st 
chapel,  is  one  of  tbe  most  graceful 
■ks  of  Giroiamo  de'  Carpi  -  the  An- 


e  picture  representing  the  Beato 
MQaparte  and  St.  Jerome,  is  a  fine 
IKk  of  Aitrtlima  Milani ;  tbe  Angels, 
are  b^    ^n^»  Fid.     Tbe 

with  S.  Lotci 
b;    TanAuria! 

Guide,  who  is  laia  to  nave  reiouciieu 
it.  At  the  high  altar,  the  miraculous 
fresco  of  tbe  Virgin  and  Child, 
brought  here  from  the  suppressed 
church  for  which  it  was  painted,  is  by 
Simoni  da  Bologna  ;  the  marble  orna- 
ments are  by  Anfft^  Venturali,  from 
the  designs  of  Fancclli  and  Bionconi. 
Tbe  tvu  marble  statues  by  tbe  side 
are  by  Fctranla  Tadoliai;  and  those 
in  plaster   by    Giaamai   Sotti.      Tbe 

altar,  is  the  medallion  portrait  of 
Louis  XIV.,  painted  by  Pedtol,  and 
set  in  diamonds :  it  was  given  by  the 
king  to  the  Canon  Count  Malvasia,  in 
return  for  his  presentation  copy  of  the 
"  Felsina  piltrice,"  and  bequeathed  to 
this  church  by  that  learned  and  ac- 
coiapllsbed  scholar.  The  occurrence 
"fihe  name  of  B.ionapatte  is  hardly 
'o,e  lingular  than  el,c  soJemo  eipo- 


pelba 


of  St.  Joachim  and 
St.  Anna,  nilh  the  date  155S,andthe 
inscription  TAR,  supposed  to  refer 
to  Giovanni  Toroschi,  the  Modenese 
painterj  though  the  Abbe  Zani.  in  the 
"  Eociclopedla  delle  Belle  Arte,"sug- 
gests  also  the  name  of  the  Tarnmi,  a 
Bologneae  6m ilj  of  painters.  In  the 
5th  is  the  picture  of  the  VJi^n  and 
Child,  with  a  sainted  bishop  on  one 
side,  and  Sla.  Lucia  on  the  other,  with 
St.  Nicholas  below,  giving  their  dowry 
to  three  young  girls,  by  MoMro  Amiai 
Aspertini,  the  pupil  of  Francis,  called 
"  dai  due  penncHe,"  \)ecaueeSiB  worked 
wlih  bol^i  bands,  boViiii^  at  \.\.e  ^arno 


JPapal  Slates.']    route  6. — bologna. — Churches. 


57 


time  one  fbr  light  and  another  for  dark 
tints.  The  7th  chapel  contains  the  only 
work  in  Bologna  by  Girolamo  Siccio- 
ianie  (da  Semioneta),  the  well-known 
imitator  of  Raphael :  it  represents  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  Martin, 
St.  Jerome,  &c. ,  and  contains  a  por- 
trait cf  Mattco  M alvezzi,  for  whom  it 
was  painted.  Near  the  door  of  the 
Sacristy  is  the  monument  and  bust  of 
the  eloquent  Filippo  Beroaldi,  the 
dder,  by  Vincenzo  Onofrio,  Above 
it,  is  the  Ascension,  by  Cavedone,  said 
to  be  the  first  inferior  work  executed 
by  him  after  the  decline  of  his  powers. 
In  the  8th  chapel  is  an  Assumption, 
attributed  to  Perugino,  although 
others  regard  it  as  one  of  the  best 
works  of  Lorenzo  Costa.  In  the  9th 
is  the  grand  picture  of  St.  Jerome 
imploring  the  Divine  assistance  in  the 
explanation  of  the  Scriptures,  by  Xo- 
douieo  Caracci ;  "  quel  S.  Girolamo,** 
tays  Lanzi,  **  che  sospesa  la  penna 
Tolgesi  al  cielo  in  atto  si  grave  e  si 
dignitoso.**  In  the  10th  is  the  Cru- 
cifixion, with  St.  Bartholomew,  St. 
Andrew,  and  the  Beato  Pietro  Toma, 
by  Ceau  The  llth  (the  chapel  of  the 
Holy  Sacrament)  was  entirely  painted 
by  Maura  TeW,  an  eminent  artist  of 
the  last  century,  and  the  friend  of 
Algarotti.  In  the  12th  chapel  is  the 
Madonna  and  Child,  with  several 
saints,  by  Francia,  who  has  left  here 
one  of  those  pleasant  records  of  his 
early  occupation  which  we  have  al- 
ready noticed,  in  the  inscription 
I'Francia  aurifex.*'  The  St.  Roch 
in  the  painted  glass  of  the  window 
over  the  altar,  is  by  the  Beato  Gia- 
como  da  Uhna.  The  oratory,  formerly 
the  conventual  library,  was  painted 
by  Dentone  ;  the  Dispute  of  St.  Cyril 
b  by  Lueio  Mattari.  The  altarpicce, 
representing  the  Incredulity  of  St. 
Thomas,  is  a  fine  work  of  Giampietro 
Zanoitiy  painted  for  the  suppressed 
church  of  S.  Tommaso  del  Mercato. 
In  the  cloister  are  several  sepulchral 
monuments,  among  which  we  may 
particularly  notice  the  fine  tomb  of 
the  two  Saliceti,  by  Andrea  da  Fietole 


The  Church  of  S.  Matt^a,  formerly 
belonging  to  the  Domenican  Nuns, 
contains  three  interesting  paintings : 
an  Annunciation,  by  TintorettOj  at  the 
third  altar ;  the  Virgin,  with  Saints, 
God  the  Father  above,  and  a  gradino 
containing  five  small  compositions,  by 
Innocenzio  da  Imola ;  and  the  Virgin 
appearing  to  S.  Giacinto,  with  two 
angels,  by  Guido,  painted  in  his 
twenty-third  year,  and  fill  1  of  promise. 

The  celebrated  Church  of  Sta. 
Maria  della  Pieti,  better  known  as  / 
Mendicanti,  which  the  great  masters 
of  the  Bolognese  school  had  enriched 
with  some  of  their  finest  works,  was 
stripped  of  its  most  valuable  treasures 
at  the  first  invasion  of  the  French  : 
the  Madonna  della  Pieta  by  Guido, 
the  St.  Matthew  by  Lodovico  Caracci, 
the  3.  Aid  and  S.  Petronioof  Cave- 
done,  are  in  the  gallery  ;  and  the  Job 
of  Guido,  which  accompanied  them 
to  France,  has  never  been  restored. 
Among  the  most  interesting  paintings 
which  remain  are  the  following :  at 
the  1st  altar,  the  Sta.  Ursula,  by 
Bartolommeo  Passerotti,  2nd,  Christ 
feeding  the  Multitude,  by  Lavinia 
Fontana,  3rd,  St.  Francis  with  S. 
Luigi  Gonzaga  and  S.  Francesco 
Borgia,  by  Ercole  Graziani.  4th,  the 
two  miracles  of  S.  Aid,  by  Cavedone^ 
so  highly  praised  by  Scaramuccia  for 
their  "  gusto  Tizianesco  ;  '*  one  re- 
presenting the  saint  seizing  the  devil 
by  the  nose  in  the  disguise  of  an  old 
woman ;  the  other,  the  saint  bringing 
back  a  horse's  foot  which  he  had  car- 
ried to  the  forge  in  order  to  have  it 
shod  with  more  convenience.  7th, 
entirely  painted  by  Tiarinu  8th,  the 
Flight  out  of  Egypt,  with  a  fine  land- 
scape, and  the  paintings  on  the  side 
walls,  by  Mastelletta  (Gio.  Andrea 
Donducci),  much  admired  by  Guido 
and  Annibale  Caracci.  10th,  the 
St.  Anna  adoring  the  Virgin  in  a 
vision,  by  Bartolommeo  Cesi.  llth, 
the  Crucifixion,  with  the  Virgin,  St. 
John,  and  olV\w  «i\tv\s,  \i^  >^^  ^«kv^ 
estimabVe  ma^V^x. 

TVffe  ChuTcYv  o^   S.  MicWU  At^  L*- 
\protetti  is  xematVaVAe  ^ox  \X\e  tw»Xw 

-D    S 


aoCTE  6. — BOLOGNA. — t^ufches.  [Sect.  I. 


F 

^Tfiece  of  Franeaeo  d^ii,  Ibe  picture  I  representing  Ibe  CircumcUian,  Ibe 
H  at  the  high  altar  rcpn:!>Enting  Ibc  Flight  out  of  Egypt,  and  the  Dispute 
Virgin  and  Child  throned,  crowned  with  the  Doctors,  are  ilso  by  (TuDnioRc. 
byargels,with  the  Archangel  Michael,  At  the  ■llh  altar  is  tbe  Purgatory  of 
wbD  commends  to  her  protection  the  Giiereimi,  in  which  Sl  Gregory  is  re- 
city  of  BoIogQa,  then  Buffering  from  presented  aa  abowing  to  the  Bunls  tbe 
the  plague.  Tbe  St.  Sebastian,  at  the  Almighty,  the  Saviour,  and  the  Virgin 
fifth  altar,  is  mentioned  witb  praiic  by  in  heayen.  At  the  high  altar  the  t>ro 
Lnnii,  IS  one  of  the  most  beautiful  statues  of  St.  Paul  and  tbe  Eiecu- 
Torks  of  S<^iaenti,  I  tioner  are  hy  Alenandro  Algardi,  who  is 

S.  Nictald  di  S.  FtUce,  moderniBed  said  to  have  given  Facchctli  the  design 
in  the  lost  century,  has  B  finepaiuting  of  the  Tribune,  and  to  have  sculptured 
by  Atnibalc  Caracei,  Ibe  CruciRxion,  the  ivory  CruciGi  with  the  symbols  of 
with  tbe  Madonna,  S.  Petranius,  S.  the  Eiangeliats.  At  tbe  Tlh,  tbe  S. 
Francis,  S.  John,  and  S.  Bernardino.  Carlo  Borrameo  carrying  the  crass 
At  the  filth  altar,  the  Virgin  and  through  Milan  during  the  plague,  and 
Child  throned,  with  S.  Joseph,  S.  the  other  piolures  of  the  same  saint  on 
Carlo,  S.  Catherine,  and  &  Crisiina,  a  the  side  vails,  arc  by  Lurenxa  Garlwri. 
fine  work  of  Gaii,  has  been  ruined  by    At  the   Sth,  the  Communion  of  St. 

is  a  bead  by  Alfmiui  Lombardo.  chapel,  are  by  MaHaH.     At  the  Sth, 

The    magnificent     Churcb    of    5.    tbe  Baptism  of  tbe  Saviour,  and  the 
Faalo,  built  by  the  Barnabite  fathers    Birth  and  Burial  ofSt.  John  the  Bap- 
-    in  1611,   was  restored  in  1819  from    tist,  are  by  Cavedoni. 

the  designs  of  VenturolL   The  marble       Tlie  Churcb  of  S.  JVtaofo  belonged, 

statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  on    previously  to  tbe  French  invasion,  to 

the  byade  are  by  Domtjoco  Mimndola,   the  Benedictine  monks  of  Alonle  Cu- 

much  praised  by    Agostino  Caiacci.    siuo  ;  its  fouudation  is  traced  as  ta 

,        At  tbe    IM  altar,  tbe   Christ  in  the   back  as  tbe  third  century,  but  tbe  pra- 

H      Garden,   and  the  Christ  bearing  tbe   sent  churcb  vas  rebuilt  in  1 536.  Over 

^^VjCross,    are    by    llaitiSetla.      At   the' tbe  principal  entrance  door  is  a  Virgin 

^^^^,  is  the  fine  painting  of  Paradise,    and  Child,  with  S.  Sista  and  S.  Bene- 

^^p^' {.Bdotiea  Corocci,  oneof  those  enu-    detto,  a  beautiful  example  of  Lippo 

^F    menited  by  L^anzi  as  a  proof  that  An-    Dalmatio,  painted  in  oiU  and  therelbre 

nibste  himself  could  not  have  given    adduced  by  Malvasia  and  Tiflrioi  as  a 

more  gracefulness  to    the   figures  of  proof  of  the  much  higher  antiquity  of 

maidens  and  boys.      The  small  Ma-    oil  painting  than  Vasaribadimiigined. 

donna  underneath  is  by  Lippn  Dalma-    Beneath  the  organ,  is  tlic  Almighty 

kmth  In  tbe  3rd,  are  the  Natiyitjr,  surrounded  by  a  glory  of  Angels  over 
ppd  tbe  Adoration  of  tbe  Magi,  by  the  Magi,  in  relief  copied  by  Cea 
^Baaedmc,  which  the  testimony  of  his  from  the  fine  design  of  Baldassare 
Jjonlemporaryartislsand  the  judgment '  Perutiii  formerly  in  the  Bentivoglio 
of  modem  critics  have  agreed  in  re-  j  palace,  which  was  destroyed  during  its 
garding  as  his  masterpiece.  Lanii,  in  .  transmisuon  to  England.  In  tbe  Snd 
noticing  his  study  of  the  Venetian ,  chapel,  the  St.  Benedict  in  ecstasy  ia 
school,  states  that  Albani  vas  so  great  also  by  Cui,  who  is  buried  in  thia 
an  admirer  of  these  two  painungs,  that  I  chuTcb.  In  the  Gth.  the  Virgin  in 
when  asked  "  whether  there  wore  any  i  glory,  with  some  Benedictine  saints, 
works  of  Titian  at  Bologna,"  he  an- '  is  one  of  the  last  works  of  £rcob 
ewercd."No,butthetwoof  Cavedonel  Graxiani,  the  younger.  In  the  Sth 
which  we  have  at  S.  Paolo  may  supply  1  chapd,  designed  by  Torreggiani,  is 
ibarplaee:  t/teyappear  tobe  Tltiao's,  I  the  marble  mausoleum  in  which  are 
Slid  are  besides  characterised  by  more  preserved  Ibebolies  rflbe  two  saints 
icfcjt  ■'     The  Memoes  of  the  ceiling,  { aud  martjis  wto  pse  oBiaeft  Wi  tiaa 


Papal  Siaies,2    boute  6. — bologka. — Churches. 


59 


diareh,  S.  Procolo  Soldato,  and  S. 
Proc(rfo  Vescovo^  found  in  the  ancient 
subterranean  church  in  1S80.  In  the 
9th  chapel,  the  S.  Mauro  is  by  Ercole 
Grazitmu  On  a  wall  adjoining  the 
church,  the  following  inscription  to 
the  memory  of  a  person  called  Pro- 
colo, buried  in  the  church,  who  was 
killed  by  one  of  the  bells  falling  on 
him  as  he  was  passing  under  the  cam- 
panile, was  much  admired  in  the  last 
century,  when  this  kind  of  play  upon 
words  was  more  in  fiishion  than  it  is 
now :  — 

**  9i  procul  a  Proculo  Proculi  campana  Aiisset, 
Jam  procul  a  Proculo  Procului  ipse  foret." 

The  Church  of  S.  Boeco,  converted 
in  1801  into  a  **  Camera  Mortuaria," 
is  remarkable  for  one  of  tliose  agree- 
able examples  of  generous  and  pa^ 
triotic  rivalry  for  which  the  school 
of  Bologna   was    particularly  distin- 
guished.    The  oratory  is  covered  with 
the  frescoes  of  the  young  artists  of  the 
period,  who,  for  no  greater  sum  than 
two  pistoles  each,  adorned  its  walls 
with  paintings  illustrating  the  life  of 
8.  Roch,  and  other  suitable  subjects. 
Their    zealous    emulation   has  been 
justly  described  as  a  **  tournament  of 
painting.**     Beginning  with  the  first 
subject  opposite  the  entrance  door,  is 
the  mother  of  S.  Roch  praying  for  off- 
spring, by  Francesco  CamuUo;  S.  Roch 
giving  to  the  poor,  by  AleMsandro  Pro- 
vagUa ;  the  Saint  healing  the  Sick  of 
the  Plague,  by   Valesio;  the  Cure  of 
Card.    Britanno,   by    IHetro  Desani ; 
Saint   Roch  wounded,  by   Sthcutiano 
EazzaK ;    his    Flight,  by   Ptiolo   Ca- 
raeei ;   his    Discovery    in  the  Wood, 
by  Cavedome ;  his  Liberation  by  the 
Angel,  by  Mastari ;  his  Apprehension 
as  a  Spy,    by    Guercino  j  the   Angel 
comforting   him,    by    Francesco    Ca- 
racei ;  and  his  Death  in  Prison,  by 
Gessi.     Hie   eighteen  compartments 
of  the  ceiling  are  also  filled  with  in- 
teresting works.     Of  the  four  protec- 
tors of  the  city,  St.  Petronius  and  St. 
Francb  are  by  Geuif  the  St.  Proclus 
by  Colomna,    Of  the  four  doctors  of 
Aethureb,  8t.  Ambrose  and  St.  Au- 
guttMB  are  by   CUmimh   and   are  so 


beautiful,  that  they  have  been  con- 
sidered worthy  of  Domenichino.  Of 
the  Evangelists,  St.  Luke,  St.  Mat- 
thew, and  St.  Mark,  arc  by  Massari, 
Of  the  Six  Virtues,  Faith  and  Charity 
are  by  Colonmij  Hope  and  Divine 
Love  by  Gessit  Patience  by  Cavedone, 
and  Heavenly  Glory  by  Valesio.  These 
frescoes  were  published  in  1831,  by 
Gaetano  Canuti,  an  ingenious  en- 
graver of  Bologna. 

The  Church  of  the  Santissimo  Sal' 
vatore  has  some  interesting  paintings. 
In  the  1st  chapel  is  the  Beito  Arc- 
angelo   Canetoli  refusing   the   Arch- 
bishopric of  Florence,  by  Ercole  Gra- 
ziani.     In  the  2nd  is  a  Resurrection, 
by  MasteUetta,  In  the  Srd,  the  Magi,  by 
Prospero  Fontana.   The  Miracle  of  the 
Crucifix  bears  the  inscription,  <*  Jacobi 
Coppif  civis  Florcntini  opus,  1579," 
and  is  mentioned  by  Lanzi  as  one  of 
the  best  pictures  in  Bologna  prior  to 
the  time  of  the  Caracci.     Near  the 
Sacristy  is  a  picture  of  peculiar  in- 
terest to  British  travellers,  represent- 
ing the  Virgin    with    St.   Thomas  k 
Becket,  "  S.  Tommaso  di  Cantuaria,** 
by   Giroiamo  da   Treviso,  formerly  at 
the  altar  "  de'  Scolari  Inglcsi  "  in  the 
old  church.      The   Judith   going   to 
meet  the   Hebrew  Damsels  with  the 
Head  of  Holoferncs,  is  by  MasteUetta, 
The  Virgin  holding  the  Infant  Saviour 
to  St.   Catherine,  with  St.  Sebastian 
and  St.  Roch,  is  a  fine  work  of  Ctro- 
lamo  de*  Carpi.     The  finely-preserved 
painting  of  tl.e  Virgin  crowned,  under- 
neath this  picture,  is  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury.     In  the  choir,  the  Saviour  bear- 
ing his  cross,  was  designed  by  Guido, 
who  painted  the  head,  and  retouched 
the  whole  picture,  after  it  was  finished 
by  Gessi.    Of  the  Four  Prophets,  the 
David  is  by  Cavedone.     The  subjects 
illustrating  the    miraculous   crucifix, 
I  are  by  Brizzi,  and  the  St.  Jerome  is 
by  Carlo  Bonone.     In  the  Gth  chapel 
,  is  a  striking  Nativity  by  Tiarini ;    in 
!  the  7th,  a  fine  Crucifixion  surrounded 
;  by  Saints,  by  fnnoceniio  da  Im^  •»  'vcv 
:  the  8th,  l\\e  \«iViW?\ow,  \i^  CorVo  Bo- 
none ;  in  l\\e  SJlVv,  ^\.,  3vi\\tv  Vvv^^^vtv^ 
before  the  ageA  7.«kQ\\;M*vM^V»^  Gax 


— BDtoGNA. — Churcheg. 


fala.     The  four  doctors  of  the  clmreli. 

|Nunted  over   the  four  snull  chapeli, 

L<an  by  Caimdoiu:.     The  Urge  picture 

tt  thB  door,   representing  the  Mar- 


gin Can 


of  Gali 


KBologu.  In  tlic  Sacristy, ' 
"  -e  by  CoMdt 
j|rX)oinenieoisattribiitcdi  ~ 
id  the  St.  John  the  Baptist, 
J!  Caniarmi; 


G«er. 


lyMail 


.  Paolo  Ant 


eMa 


hnd  been  rnnlussador 
Egypt  in  1359.  At 
is  llie  monument  of  I 


byT, 


■..  TheiJ 


marble  1 
lit  the  [ 


iMbierUthe  beloved  brother  of  Guer- 

i,  is  buried  in  this  church  ;  the  af- 

e  wish  of  the  great  painter  to 

ie  buried  in  the  ume  graTe,  although 

ifulRlled,  deserves  to  be  cotnmcmo- 

-      d  by  an  inscription. 

r  Hie  grand   Porlico  dc'  Strni.  built 

''     a  marble  columns,  in  1393,  by  Fra 

~    a  ManTredi  of  Faenia,  General 

tt'tbe  SerTites,  presenle  a  series  r>r  in- 

coes  in  the  lunettes,  il- 

iouB  events  in  the  life  t>f  ^ 

i.  FiUppo  Beniiii.      Of  these  twenty  ' 

— "  iclii.  the  principal  are  by  Cignani, 

amU  Piani,    Pemiini,    Ciase/ye 

i,  iorenio  Borgnraoni,  &c. ;  Uial 

in  the  Hnt  arch,  by  Cignani,  represent- 

^-  ■'      "       brought  to  Life,  and  the 

Uie  Tombof  S.Fillppo, 

a  so  admirably  painted,  tliat  it  is 

Ipposed  to  have  been  destroyed  from 

SDTy  by  some  of  his  contemporaries. 

I'he  Church  of  the  Stni.  aim  built 
by  Fm  Andrea  Manfredi,  is  remark- 
able for  some  fine  paintings.      In  the 
3nd   chapel, ^  the    Virgin   giving   the 
-     '  dress  to  the  seven  faunderi: 
ir,  is  one  of  the  last  works  of 
ni,   painted  by    him    when 
•rly  eighty.five  years  of  age,      4lh, 
«  death  of  Sta.  Giuliana  Faleonieri, 
i  the  St.    Anthony  above,    are  by 
alt  Griaiaui.     5tb,  (he  Paradise,  a 
e  and  elaborate  work,  by  Calcart 
immingo),       Tth,    the    Madonna 
del   Uondovi,  with  angels,  John  the 
Baptist,    S.  James,  and   S.  Franeesfo 
di    Paolo,  by    Tiarin.     la  the  lOih 
cfeappl  is  preserved  a  marble  pitcher, 
s^id  fohare  been  used  at  the  marriage 
fl^  Oina,    presented    by    Fra    Vitale 
■Haaheri,  General  oftbe  Scrvites,  who 


of  the  Saurlsly  is  that  of  Lodovieo 
Fronti,  by  aiacomo  Raniiecix,,  In 
the  13th  chapel,  the  miracle  of  S. 
Gregory  at  mass  i«  by  Aretraii  the 
Twelve  thousand  crucified,  near  this, 
is  by  Eliaabctta  Stnmi.  In  the  14th, 
the  Virgin  and  Child  painted  on  the 
wall,  and  two  saints  by  the  side,  are 
by  Lippo  Dtdniaiio:  opposite,  the 
Beato  Gioacchlno  Piocolomini  feint- 
ing during  the  celebration  of  mass,  ia 
by  Ercnte  Graiiam :  the  Madonna  above 
it  is  another  work  of  Lippo  Daiintttia. 
ISlh,  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Anna,  by 
of  the   ad- 


gdoor 


1  Ubict 


Fra  Andrea  nraofredi  of  Fnenia,  the 
eminent  architect  and  general  of  the 

founded.  IGtb,  S.  Onafrio,  byCaheaH 
(  Fiamioingo).  17tb,  on  one  of  the  pi- 
lasters is  a  memorial  of  this  celebrated 
artist,  erected  by  Fantuuti.  The  stalls 
ofthe  choir  were  designed  by  Manfredi. 
Tn  the  20tb  chapel,  the  fresco  repre- 
senting the  soul  of  S.  Carlo  in  heaven 
was  painted  by  Gvido,  gratuitously,  ia 
a  single  night,  by  torchlight  33ad,  tbe 
Annunciation,  a  Hne  work  by  tnna- 
cemio  da  Ima/a.  The  frescoes  of  the 
roof  and  side  walls  are  by  BtJ^nacaiHtlloj 
retouched  in  the  last  century  by  NicDold 
BertuizL  T^e  paintings  of  this  chapel 
were  made  the  subject  of  a  learned 
discourse  by  Luigi  Creapi,  in  1774. 
24th,  the  St.  Andrew  adoring  the 
Cross  prepared  for  hia  martyrdom,  a 
line  picture  by  A!hati.  Tlie  munu-- 
mcnt  of  the  Cardinal  L'tisse  Gouadiui 
has  a  line  portrait  of  that  prelate  in 
Roman  mosaic.  26th,  the  Noli-ine- 
tangere  is  another  line  work  o^Atbani. 
The  large  painting  of  the  Nativity  ot 
the  Virgin,  with  numerous  figures  over 
the  door,  was  the  last  work  of  Tiarini. 
In  the  Sacristy,  the  Mativity  of  John 
the  Baptist,  his  Preaching,  and  the 
Baptiim  ot  the  aavimit,  aie  Vj  M<"- 
I  teUeUo.     In  the  a^droiQa  tciweii^  » 


Pli^al  States."]  r.  6. — bologna. — Fontana  del  Gigante.       61 


the  grand  staircase  designed  by  Ttrri- 
bUia^  and  a  fine  perspective  by  Dentone, 
much  admired  as  one  of  the  finest 
oompoations  of  its  class. 

The  Church  of  the  SS,  Tnnitct  has, 
at  the  2nd  altar,  the  Birth  of  the 
Virgin,  by  Lavinia  Fontana,  At  the 
high  altar  is  the  S.  Roch  supplicating 
the  Virgin,  by  Guercino,  At  the 
7th  altar  is  the  Madonna  in  glory, 
with  SS.  Girolamo,  Francesco,  Donino, 
and  Apollonia,  and  some  children 
playing  with  the  cardinal's  hat,  by 
Gio,  Battista  Gennari,  of  Cento, 
painted  in  1 606  for  the  Church  of  S. 
Biagio,  and  extolled  by  Lanzi  for  its 
resemblance  to  the  Procaccini. 

The  very  ancient  church  of  S,  Vitale 
td  AgricolOf  consecrated  in  428  by  St. 
Fetronius  and  St.  Ambrose,  has  a 
graceful  painting  of  Francesco  Francia^ 
covering  the  ancient  image  of  the 
Madonna  in  the  8th  chapel.  Beside 
it,  arc  two  fine  pictures,  one  represent- 
ing the  Nativity,  by  Giacomo  Frctncia, 
the  son  of  Fmncesco,  and  the  other  the 
Visitation  by  BaffnacavaUo,  Opposite 
is  an  inscription  recording  the  conse- 
cration of  the  church  :  the  column, 
with  a  cross  of  the  early  Christians, 
brought  here  in  1832,  formerly  stood 
on  the  spot  in  the  adjoining  street 
where  S.  Vitale  and  S.  Agricola  suf- 
fered martyrdom.  The  2nd  chapel 
has  a  picture  by  Tiarini,  the  Virgin 
mounting  the  ass,  in  the  flight  out  of 
EgypL  The  Nativity,  in  the  7tli 
chapel,  with  St.  Iloch  and  St.  Sebastian, 
has  been  attributed  to  Pen^no  (?) 


The  Piazza  Maggiore,  called  also 
the  I'iazza  del  Gigante,  was  the 
Forum  of  Bologna  in  the  middle  ages : 
it  is  still  surrounded  by  remarkable 
edifices  rich  in  historical  associations, 
the  relics  of  the  once  formidable  repub- 
lic. It  is  370  feet  long  by  300  broad, 
and  was  considered  by  Evelyn,  in  his 
time,  as  the  most  stately  piazza  in 
Italy,  with  the  single  exception  of  San 
Marco  at  Venice.  The  church  of  San 
Petronio  haa  been  already  described ; 
the  other  buildings  which  give  an  in- 


terest  to  this  spot  are  the  Palazzo  del 
Pubblico,  the  Palazzo  del  Podestil, 
and  the  Portico  de*  Banchi.  On  enter- 
ing the  Piazza,  the  attention  of  the 
traveller  is  arrested  by  the  magnificent 
fountain,  called 

The  Fontana  Puhbltca,  or  the  Fon- 
tana del  Gigante,  constructed  in  1564, 
while  Cardinal  S.  Carlo  Borromeo 
was  legate  :  the  general  design  is  by 
Lavretti;  the  pedestal  and  the  vase 
are  hy  Antonio  Lupt;  and  the  Neptune 
with  the  other  figures  and  bronze  orna- 
ments, are  by  Giovanni  di  Bologna.  The 
Neptune,  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
works  of  that  great  master,  is  eight  feet 
high,  and  the  weight  of  the  bronze  em- 
ployed in  the  figures  is  said  to  be  20,01 2 
Bolognese  pounds.  The  cost  of  the 
fountain,  with  its  pipes  and  aqueducts, 
amounted  to  70,000  golden  scudi.  The 
merits  of  the  Neptune  have  been  very 
differently  estimated  by  different  critics, 
Forsyth  says  he  "saw nothing  so  grand 
in  sculpture  '*  at  Bologna  :  **  the  Nep- 
tune is  admired  for  the  style,  anatomy, 
and  technical  details  :  his  air  and  ex- 
pression are  truly  noble,  powerful, 
commanding — perhaps  too  command- 
ing for  his  situation."  Bell,  on  the 
other  hand  (a  high  authority  on  such 
a  subject),  says,  **  Neptune,  who  pre- 
sides over  the  fountain,  is  a  colossal 
heavy  figure,  in  the  act  of  preaching 
and  wondering  at,  rather  than  com- 
manding, the  waves  of  the  ocean  ;  boys 
in  the  four  corners  are  represented  as 
having  bathed  small  dolphins,  which 
they  are  holding  by  the  tail  to  make 
them  spout  water  ;  while  four  female 
Tritons  fill  the  space  beneath ;  these 
fold  their  marine  extremities  between 
their  limbs,  and  press  their  bosom  with 
their  hands,  to  cause  the  water  to  fiow. 
The  whole  composition  and  manner  is 
quaint,  somewhat  in  the  French  style, 
and  such  as  I  should  have  been  less 
surprised  to  find  at  Versailles  than  at 
Bologna.  ** 

nie  Palazzo  Maggiore  del  Pubblico, 
begun  at   the  end  of  iVvt  \.\\\\\ft«o>^ 
century,  \s  one  o^  \.\\«i  \^^^\.  ^vi^^v^ 
monuments  of  l\\c  c\l^,    \\.  v&  >>^^  "^^ 
sidence  of  the  liefgeit^  an^oi  VN^^  ^^o^' 


FT. 

^ftor.  lis  facade  ttill  exliibits  sorne 
^'  traces  of  the  poinlcd  style,  but  tho 
liuildliig  boa  been  m  ollered  at  Tarioui 
period^  tbst  little  unitormilr  remains. 
In  the  upper  part  of  tlie  &fa<lc  is  a 
Madonna  in  TeVitf.bjNla.i>IAddrJrca, 
ill  crela  cotu  gill,  erronsoualy  de- 
scribed by  ViBari  as  brotiie.  The  or- 
namunti  of  the  clock  am  by  Tadaliiii. 
Th|  entrance  doorway  is  by  Cofcaiio 
AlCHiof  FerugiB(l370):  the  bronie 
statue  of  Gregory  XIII.  (Buddcoiq- 
pagni\  in  the  niche  above,  was 
erected  at  tlie  cost  or  his  fi-Uaw-citi- 
aetll;  It, is  by  Aleuaitdro  MmpoHli, 
called  by  Agostino  Caracci  the  "un- 
known Michael  Angelo."  At  the 
rerululion  of  1T9C,  the  tiara  was 
changed  into  a  mitre,  and  a  pastoral 
Etas'  ioserteil  into  the  right  hand,  with 
the  inseriptioo  "  DIsub  Petrouiua  Pro- 
teetar  et  Pater."  But  another  change 
vai  to  follow,  which  Mr.  Bell  thus  de- 
scribes ;  "  The  statue  is  good,  but 
strangely  disfigured  fri 


speiu-  or  a  weaver's  beam  ;  and 
quiring  into  the  cause  of  this  inconsis- 
tency, I  was  informed  that  the  Frencli, 
ofltnded  with  the  pastoral  staiT.  had 
taken  it  and  the  cap  sway,  »nd  now 
the  municipality  thought  they  could 
not  do  too  much  lo  restore  him,  and 
so  gate  him  one  as  thick  as  his  leg : 
they  took  down  the  old  inscription, 
substituting  this,  '  Divus,  Papa,  Pa- 
Ironus.'  "  On  entering  the  building 
and  proceeding  to  the  third  court,  for- 
merly a  garden,  we  find  the  beautiful 
cistern  constructed  by  Ttrribilia,  at. 
the  cost  of  6,000  scudi. 

A  grand  alaircHse  d  confoBi,  eighty- 
live  feet  in  length,  by  iiromonfe,  eon-  | 
ducts  113  to  the  upper  halli.  The , 
bronze  buatof  Benedict  XIV.  and  the  | 
ornaments  oier  the  door  where  it  is  I 
placed,  are  by  Giabattiita  BotagniAi. 
The  great  Hall  of  Hercules  takes  its 
name  trom  a  colossal  statue  of  that  god  ! 
by  Alfotuo  Lombnrdo.  On  the  right  is  j 
a  hall,  covered  with  frescoes,  the  ar- 
•^iieetural  portions  of  which  are  by  , 
-AfAw.i.  Siti'mi;  the  figures  on  the  I 
^^•lingarBbyji^rloBigari;  and  those  J 


S,— BOLOGNA. — Palazzo  del  Po^eat^.    ^Sect.I. 

ill  exhibits  some  on  the  walls  by  Scarabtlli.  In  the 
adjoining  chapel  is  a  frenco  of  the  Ma- 
donna, called  the  Madonna  del  Tcr- 
reraoto,  supposed  to  have  been  painted 
by  the  school  of  Fraiicia  in  1505. 
The  gaUery  leading  out  of  the  Hall 
of  Hercules  is  covered  with  frescoes 
illustrating  the  glories  of  Bologna  by 
Oiorma  and  Piizotl.  The  Sala  Far- 
nese,  so  called  Irom  a  copper  status 
of  Pope  Paul  IlL,  is  perhaps  the  most 
magnificent.  Its  roof  and  walls  are 
covered  with  fine  paintings  represent- 
ing the  history  of  the  city,  by  Cignani, 
Francesco  Qusini,  ScBramiiccia,  Posi- 
nelli,  the  elder  Bibieiia,  and  other  emi. 

The  Palazzo  del  PodesiS,  begun  in 
ISOl,  with  a  fa^dc  added  in  14HS  by 
BartalommeaFioravanli,althoughstil1 
an  unfini^eil  building,  has  an  ur  uf 
grandeur  which  accords  with  its  cha- 
racter as  the  ancient  seat  of  municipal 
authority.  Its  greatest  interest,  how- 
ever, is  derived  from  its  having  been 
is  Uke  a  Goliath's  the  prison  of  King  Eniius,  son  of  the 
great  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  who 
was  captured  by  the  Bolognese  in 
1243,  and  kept  here  s  prisoner  until 
his  death  in  1^72.  The  history  of  this 
unfortunate  monarch,  whose  tomh  we 
have  already  noticed  io  the  account  of 
S.  Damenico,  offers  a  singular  illus- 

ages.  The  haughty  TepubUc  rejected 
all  the  overtures  of  the  emperor  for 
the  reslitullon  of  bis  son,  and  bis  threats 
and  money  were  equally  lost  in  the 
--  obtain  his  liberty.    During 


his   long   i 
ployed  his  t 

published,  a 


e  in  poetical  cumposi- 
these  poems  have  been 
are  marked  by  con- 
sioeraiiie  laste.  The  young  king  more- 
over was  beloved  in  his  captivity  by  ■ 
fair  damsel  of  Bologna,  Lucia  Venda- 
goli,  who  succeeded  in  visiting  him 
under  various  disguises;  and  the  Ben- 
tlvoglio  femily  are  believed  to  derive 
their  origin  from  these  mysterious  in- 
trigues. The  great  hall  is  still  called 
Sala  dd  Se  Eamo,  although  there  is 
proof  that  it  vbs  occuQwd  \fi  him ; 
indeed  its  aiie,  no  Seel  t")  14,  winAik 


PapalSuUeg,']  fu  6.-*bologna. — Portico  de'  Banchi;  Palaces,  6S 


almost  seem  eondusive  against  such  a 
belief.     This  hall  has  likewise  had  its 
vicissitudes  of  fortune:    in  1410,  the 
conclave  for  the  election  of  Pope  John 
XXII.  was  held  there ;    in  the  last 
coitury  it  was  converted  into  a  theatre ; 
it  was  afterwards  used  for  the  game  of 
palUme;  and  was  latterly  degraded  into 
a  workshop.     In  other  parts  of  the 
building  are  the  Sala  de*  Notari,  and 
the  public  Archives.     The  latter  are 
rich  in  rare  and  inedited  materials  for 
the  history  of  Bologna,  and  indeed  of 
Italy  during  the  middle  ages ;  among 
tliem  is  pointed  out  the  Bull  called 
•'Dello  Spirito  Santo,"   published  at 
Florence,  July  6.  14S9,  by  Eugenius 
IV.,  £Dr  the  union  of  the  Greek  and 
JLatin  churches.      A  picture  of  the 
Annunciation   preserved  here   is  by 
Jacopo  Paolo  Avanzu   The  lofty  tower, 
called  Torrazzo  deH  aringo,  built  upon 
arcades,  is  a  massive  and  imposing 
pile :  it  was  erected  in  1 264,  for  the 
purpose,  it  is  said,  of  watching  Enzius. 
The  statues  of  the  four  protectors  of 
the  city,  on  the  columns  which  sup- 
port its  arcades,  are  in  terra  cotta,  by 
AlfwMO  Lombardo. 

The  Portico  de*  Banchi,  occupying 
one  side  of  the  Piazza,  300  feet  in 
length,  was  designed  and  executed  by 
Vignotoy  who  had  to  adapt  it,  amidst 
numerous  difficulties,  to  the  irregula- 
rities of  the  old  building. 

Adjoining  S.  Petronio,  is  the  build- 
ing called  //  Regisiro,  formerly  the 
College  of  Notaries,  presented  to  that 
body  in  1283  by  the  learned  juriscon- 
sult and  chief  magistrate  Rolandino 
Passaggeru  The  hall,  now  converted 
into  a  chapel,  is  remarkable  for  little 
beyond  a  Madonna  by  Pasterotti; 
but  tlie  Sacristy  contains,  among  other 
documents,  a  Diploma  of  the  Emperor 
Frederick  III.,  dated  Jan.  3.  1462, 
and  confirmed  by  a  Bull  of  Julius  II., 
dated  Feb.  15.  1505,  granting  to  the 
Correttore  de*  Notari  the  power  of 
creating  apostolical  and  imperial  no- 
taries, and  the  singular  privilege  of 
l^timatifting  natural  children. 

J^iaaie  J'aiaces.-^The   Palaces  of 
JBaU^gnsMnf  extremely  numerous,  but 


they  are  with  few  exceptions  most 
unsatis&ctory  to  visit :  they  are  little 
better  than  marts  for  picture-dealers, 
and  the  works  which  formerly  gave 
them  celebrity  are  gradually  disappear- 
ing ;  so  that  it  would  be  difficult  to 
give  any  description  of  their  moveable 
works  of  art,  which  should  hold  good 
from  one  year  to  another.  Their  fres- 
coes, however,  like  their  architecture, 
cannot  be  exported ;  and  it  will  be  seen 
that  in  both  these  branches  of  art  there 
is  much  to  engage  the  attention  of  the 
traveller. 

The  Palcuzo  Albergatiy  agreeably 
placed  in  the  Strada  Saragozza,  is  a 
fine  example  of  the  architecture  of 
Baldassare  Peruzzi{\540),  The  ceil- 
ings of  the  rooms  on  the  ground  floor 
are  by  Gessi ;  and  in  the  upper  halls  are 
some  wainscots  by  the  scholars  of  the 
Caracci.  Under  this  palace  several 
foundations  of  ancient  Roman  Baths 
have  been  discovered. 

The  Palazzo  Aldrovandi,  a  name  in 
itself  full  of  interesting  recollections, 
was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  1748,  by 
Card.  Pompeo  Aldrovandi,  on  a  scale 
of  grandeur  worthy  the  fame  of  that 
illustrious  scholar.  Tlie  &9ade  is  or- 
namented with  Istrian  marble.  The 
noble  library  and  the  gallery  of  pic- 
tures collected  by  the  Cardinal,  and 
augmented  by  his  successors,  have  been 
nearly  all  dispersed.  At  the  end  of  the 
palace  there  was  formerly  a  manufac- 
tory of  earthenware,  in  imitation  of 
English  ware,  founded  by  Count  Ulisse 
Aldrovandi,  but  long  since  abandoned. 

The  Palazzo  Ardvescovile,  the  re- 
sidence of  the  archbishop,  was  built 
in  1577  by  Tibaldi,  and  has  been 
recently  restored  and  decorated  with 
considerable  taste  at  the  cost  of  the 
amiable  Cardinal  Archbishop  Oppiz- 
zonL  The  apartments  arc  painted  by 
the  most  eminent  modern  artists  of 
Bologna,  Professor  Frulli,  Pedrini, 
Fancelli,  Fantuzzi,  Zanotti,  &c. 

The  Palazzo  Baciocchi,  formerly  the 
Banuzzif  is  one  of  the  mcKk.  vccv^^tl^ 
spec'imeiis  o^  doicve^vc  w<^\\&t\.>sx^  v^ 
j  Bologna :   \\s  pi\viCY^«\.  ^^^^-a.^^  >&  '^^ 


B0utE6. — BOLOGNA. — Pahcts.  [Sect,  T. 


detiiln  were  probably  designed 


Giuseppe  . 


tiibuted  t 


one  or  Ihe  most  tnlcrcsting  cismpUt 
Ibe  Eclectic  Schoal.  The  miall 
aoibiv  adjoining  is  painted  by  Zjodo- 
Tsrri,  and  to  Gio-  nieo,  who  hsa  represented  tlje  Voyage 
All  these  archi- '  of  Mneas  in  tn-clTe  pictures ;  tvu  of 
tectural  details  have  been  engraied  and  '  Ihem,  the  Polyphemus  and  the  Harpies, 
published.  were  coloured  by  Annibale.  The  neit 

The  line  BtitHvoglia  Palace,  by  an  chamber  is  painted  by  Albani,  with 
unlcDoirn  architect,  has  been  frequently  '  the  assistance  of  Lodovico  Caracci  :  it 
the  residence  of  sovereign  princes  I  presents  siiteen  subjects,  also  taken 
during  their  fisits  to  Bologna  ;  it  re-  j  (rata  the  jSneid.  The  next  chamber 
^Is  the  magnificenee  of  the  ancient  is  painted  by  Z.uci'd  ^aiiari,  with  the 
itivoglio  palace  destroyed  by  the  assistance  of  the  same  great  master, 
lulace  at  the  instigation  of  Pope  The  decorations  of  theotherchambers 
,  vho  adopted  this  mode  of  are  by  his  other  pupils  the  last  room 
_  himself  on  bis  great  rival  being  by  On'.-  the  subject  of  the 
Ibals  Bontivoglio.  In  the  reprisal  ^neid  prevails  throughout  the  whole. 
'  followed,  the  vengeance  of  the  The  paintings  oF  a  cabinet  represent^ 
^hicf  fell,  as  we  ing  the  Rape  of  Europa  are  by  Anm- 
idy  stated,  on  the  sulue  of^  bale  Caraeti,  in  the  style  of  Titian. 


i6  Pope,  the  masterpiece  of  Michael 
~o,  aflblding  another  striking  btrt 
cholv  instance  of  Ihe  fickleness 
X  polilietd  mobs. 

The  Palazso  Sevilacqva,  whose  grand 
■Tchitecture  is  attributed  to  BrnvtBu- 
liaa  da  Mbno,  yields  to  few  in  the 
roagoiflcence  of  its  courts,  staircasea, 
and  halls.  In  one  of  the  chambers 
is  an  inscription  recording  that  the 
Council  of  Trent  assembled  there  in 
16*7.  having  been  removed  to  Bologna 
by  order  of  their  celebrated  physician 
Jerome  Fracastorio,  imder  the  preteit 

The  Patatie  Biagi,  formerly  the 
Odorici,  in  the  Scrada   San    Steiano, 

able  for  two  ceilings  painted  by  Guido 
and  his  school. 

The  Falmxo  dt'  BianchI,  In  the 
same  street,  has  a  line  ceiling  by  diiifti, 
representing  the  Harpies  infesting  the 
table  of  .SincoB. 

TTie    Palazzo    Fava,    opposite    Ihe 

Church  of  the  Madonna  di   Galliera, 

is  rich  in  frescoes  by  the  Oirocci,  who 

are  here  seen  In  all  their  glory.      The 

great   hall   contains   the    first   fresco 

painted    by    Ai/oilina    and    AsnibaU, 

under  Ihe  diteciioa  of  Lodovieo,  after 

their  return  (rom  Parma  and  Venice : 

f  rsfireseabt,  in  a  seriea   of  eighteen 

ctiii-ea,  Ibe  Expeditioa  of  Jason,  and 


The  Pnfaiio  Grmil 
ficenl  fresco  by  Ijxioeico  Caraeci,"re- 
prescntiog  Hercules  armed  with  a 
flambeau  treading  on  the  Hydni  and 
by  Pr^ 


de  Rou 


engrave. 


stones,  and  illustrating  different  events 
of  Scripture  history.  A  description 
of  these  delicate  works,  with  engrav- 
ings, was  published  in   1829,  by  Ca- 

The  Palazio  Guidolli,  formerly  the 
ig  design  of 
is  celebrated 


for  Ihe 


1    Tibaldi. 


y  of  Ro- 


racci,  representmg  tt 
muluB  and  liemus,  ano  not  inlcrior 
either  in  composition  or  in  colour  to 
those  in  the  Famcse  palace.  They 
are  called  by  Lanii   "  (he  miracle  irf 

The  Palaxzo  Hereolaai,  restored  at 
the  close  of  the  last  century  from  the 
designs  of  VenturoH,  was  &mona 
throughout  Europe  for  its  pictures, 
sculptures,  and  superb  library,  rich  in 
MSS.  and  printed  boola  i  but  they 
have  nearly  all  been  sold. 

The  Palazzo  MiUveizi  BonfiaH,  has, 
in  its  second  court,  an  interesting  serici 
of  frescoes  illustrating  the  Gertiso. 
lemme  Lihetata,  by  LioiteBo  Spad/t, 
Luct'o  Moesari,  SloA.  Froncnco  Brliii. 
In  the  ga^lerT!  ta  a  pot\.t».M.Vj  Domt. 


J 


I\pai  SiaiesJ]    bodte  6. — bologna. — Pakmes. 


^ 


a  Sibyl  by  Gvido  in  his  early 
youth,  and  some  other  fine  works  of 
the  Bolognese  schooL 

The  Palazzo  Malvezzi  Campeggi,  de- 
signed by  the  Formigini,  is  remark- 
able for  some  tapestries  from  the  de- 
sign of  Luca  von  Leyden,  presented 
to  Cardinal  Campeggi  by  Henry  VIII. 
of  England. 

The  Palazzo  Maresealckt,  formerly 
so  famous  for  its  pictures  by  Correg- 
gio,  the  St  Peter  of  Guido,  the  St. 
Cecilia  of  Domenichino,  and  other 
masterpieces,  has  been  despoiled  of  all 
its  principal  treasures.  The  fa9ade  is 
attributed  to  TibaMi;  the  vestibule 
at  the  top  of  the  stairs  is  painted  in 
chiaroscuro  by  Brizzi ;  and  so  pro- 
fusely has  art  lavished  her  resources 
at  Bologna,  that  even  the  chimney- 
pieces  are  painted  by  the  Carcusci, 
Guido,  and  Tibaldi. 

The  Pidazzo  PcUlaviciui,  formerly 
the  Fihbia^  has  a  noble  hall  painted 
by  Domenico  Santi,  and  Canuti.  The 
interior  of  the  chapel,  and  the  vesti- 
bule leading  to  it,  are  painted  by 
diichad  Angela  CoUmna.  Twelve  busts 
of  illustrious  ladies  of  Bologna  are 
mostly  the  work  of  Algardi ;  the  rest 
are  copied  from  Alfonso  Lomhardo, 

The  Palazzo  PepoUy  built  from  the 
designs  of  Torri,  in  the  beginning  of 
the  last  century,  occupies  the  site  of 
the  ancient  palace  of  the  great  captain 
Taddeo  Pepoli,  which  was  sold  in  1 37 1 
to  Gregory  XI.  to  establish  there  the 
Gregorian  College,  then  recently 
founded  by  Guglielmo  da  Brescia  for 
poor  Bolognese  students.  On  the 
suppression  of  the  College  in  1452,  it 
was  granted  to  the  Domenlcans,  who 
sold  it  back  to  the  Pepoli  family  in 
1474.  It  is  a  fine  building,  with 
frescoes  of  Colonna  and  Canuti^  illus- 
trating the  history  of  Taddeo  Pepoli: 
its  halls  and  chambers  are  also  painted 
in  fresco  by  Donate  Creti,  Ercole 
Graziani,  and  other  artists. 

Tlie    Palazzo  Piella,  formerly  the 

Bocchi   Palace,  was  built   by  Vignola 

fur  the  learned   Achille  Bocchi,  who 

is  uid  to  have  bad  some  share  in  its 

deaiga.     The  ball  on  the  ground  floor 


has  a  ceiling  painted  by  Prospero  Fan* 
tana;  but  with  this  exception,  the 
chief  interest  of  the  palace  consists  in 
its  connection  with  Bocchi,  who 
while  professor  of  Greek  and  Latin, 
rhetoric  and  poetry  in  the  University, 
founded  in  this  palace  the  academy 
which  bore  bLs  name,  and  established 
a  printing-ofifice,  from  which  several 
elegant  editions  of  valuable  works  were 
issued.  He  was  created  a  chevalier 
and  count  palatine,  with  the  peculiar 
power  of  conferring  knighthood  and 
the  diploma  of  doctor,  and  of  legiti- 
matising  natural  children.  The  senate 
of  Bologna  appointed  him  historio- 
grapher, and  employed  him  in  writ- 
ing the  history  of  the  city.  His 
principal  works  are  the  **  Apologia  in 
Plautum,"  *<  Carmina  in  laudem  lo. 
Bapt.  Pii,**  and  the  "  Symbolicarum 
Quaestionum  de  Universo  Genere, 
quas  serio  ludebat,"  &c.  The  engrav- 
ings of  the  second  edition  of  the  latter 
were  retouched  by  Agostino  Caracci. 

The  Palazzo  Banuzzi,  formerly  the 
Lambertinif  built  from  the  designs  of 
Bartolommeo  Triachini,  is  interesting 
for  its  paintings  by  Bolognese  masters 
prior  to  the  Caracci.  The  most  re- 
markable of  these  works  are  the  ceil- 
ing of  the  upper  hall,  by  Tommaso 
Laurettif  the  Virtues  by  Lorenzo  Sab^ 
batini,  the  Fall  of  Icarus  by  Orazio 
Samacchinif  and  the  death  of  Hercules 
by  Tibaldi. 

The  Palazzo  Sampieri,  once  so  cele« 
brated  for  the  treasures  of  its  gallery, 
has  become  a  kind  of  auction  mart ; 
its  famous  pictures  have  been  sold ; 
the  greater  part  have  been  transferred 
to  the  Brera  at  Milan,  and  collections 
from  other  quarters  are  now  sent  to 
the  palace  to  find  a  market.  But  its 
fine  ceilings  and  chimney-pieces,  by 
the  Caracci  and  Guercino,  arc  well 
preserved  and.  will  amply  repay  a  visit. 
—  I.  In  the  1st  hall,  the  ceiling, 
painted  by  Lodovico  Caracci,  repre- 
sents Jupiter  with  the  Eagle  and  Her- 
cules ;  *'  in  form,  dignity  of  feature^ 
and  ma$rm(\cet\ce  ot  e\\wwi\.w^'*  «k^^ 
Mr.  BeW,  **  ftneX-^  %\n\.e^  \jo  Vwxsiwvvsfc 
as  a  group.    TYve  imiscvXax  ^%>yt<i  «A. 


MtS 


RobtE  6. — BOLOGNA. — Paloees. 


[gantio  bulk  of  Herouica  it  impus-'  tana  Gondolfi :   it  was  clHmageil,!iiiH'. 


■oquaintance  with  the  humBD  figure 
i*  diiplajied,  witb  ailmirnble  fare- 
ahorteniiig,  Bnd  great  skill  and  hold- 
's knowledgB  of  anatoniy  is 
veiabli!  from  his  oorr 
bandings, 
btnided  on  the  eye  by  carimlured  or 
■*«d  lines."  Tlie  ohimney-piMe  of 
a  painting  b; 


r.byr. 


In 


hull  and  the  adjoining  chnmbtT 
is  a  series  of  very  beautiful  paintings 
by  Ibe  same  master,  illustrating  the 
history  of  ^oeai,  which  seems  to  have 
been  a  favourite  subject  of  tlie  Bulog- 

I'lie  Falazio  Tamira  has  several  in. 
tetesting paintings;  tbe  Bath  of  Diana, 
the  Toilet  of  Venus,  St.  Paul  shaking 
oBT  the  Viper,  and  the  Idst  Sxipper, 
are  by  ^oifim 
if  Proserpine.  Judas  and  the 
baokgruund  the  Rape  of  by  Ladovieo ;  the  Assumption  of  the 
Goddess.  — n.  The  Bnd  ball  Virgin,  and  the  CumKaa  Sibyl,  are 
ceiling  by  Annilialc  Caracci,  re-  by  GiaraHO  ;  a  Madonna  by  Gvida  / 
ntine^eApotlieOBiB  of  Hercules,  tbe  portrait  at  JUani  is  by  himself ; 
acted  by  Virtue.  —  III.  The  the  portrait  of  S.  Carlo  Borromoo,  by 
IB  of  the  3rd  hall,  by  Apoilino  CarbiJaZpi;  the  portrait  of  a  Cardinal 
i,  represents  Hercules  nnd  Atlas  by  TiiaoreOa  i  but  the  gem  of  the 
ipporting  tbe  Globe.  The  chimney-  ,  gallery.  Guide's  Virgin  suckling  the 
of  tbu  ball,  by  the  same  master,   in&nt  Sailoul,  '       " 


Hercules   holding    down 

>,  preparing  to  pierce  him  with 

>e  i^rp  end  of  his  club.  _  IV.   In 

e  'Itb  hall,  the   ceiling,  repreaent- 

g  Hercules  strangling  Antasus,  is  by 

WiSmtnhio.    "  A  superb  piece,  with  fine 

deep-toned  colouring,  and  wonderful 

power  of  obiaroscuro.      Tbe  Hguie  of 

Hercules  is  very  grand,  but  seems  to 

hate  occupied  rather  too  much  of  the 

h  force  or  bulk  corresponding  to 
e  action;  neither  are  the  figures  suf- 
leieutly  connected.  But  the  whale 
.although  liable  to  these  oriti- 
ork  of  great  vigour,  and 
unqueblionable  merit.  In  one  of  the 
Bcco  mpanying  ornaments  of  the  ceiling 
there  is  a  beautiful  little  painting  by 
GaerciHB,  of  Love  (I  think  it  aliould 
have  been  Ganymede)  carrying  off  the 
spoils  of  Hercules,  the  skio  of  the 
Nemean  lion,  and  the  club,  llie 
motto  under  it  is  'Hecc  ad  superos 
gloria  pundit.' "  —  BdL 

The  Palaizo   Sidazsi,  formerly  (lie 

Zjnan,  has  a  fkfode  designed  by  Giro- 

/amo  da  Trerlso.   I/nder  this  portico  is 

tf,e  Sue  Nativity  by  A'iocoit)  deW  Abate, 

^ell  known  by  llio  engraving  of  Gae- 


Tbe  PalaiiB  Zambecmn  da  S.  Puolo 
gallery,  rich  in  works  of 
the  Caranci  and  other  masters  of  the 
Eclectic  sdiool.  Among  thcsemaybi 
noticed  Jacob's  Ladder,  and  Abraham 
at  table  with  tbe  Angels,  by  Lodaeico 
Caraxii  the  Dead  Christ,  by  Agof- 
lino  1  the  Sibyl,  the  Elijah,  and  the 
Madonna  and  Child,  by  n^ucrcinoj 
the  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  hf 
Albani;  portrait  of  Cardinal  dc'  Me. 
dici,  by  Zhmenichijta .-  his  own  por- 
trait, by  Banccia ,  Bt.  John,  by  Ca- 
ravaggio ;  a  St.  Sebastian,  and  the 
portrait  of  Charles  V.  by  Tihoii . 
fine  landscape  by  Saleaiar  Rocai  and 
tbe  six  mistresses  of  Charles  II.,  by 
Sit  Pettr  Ldy.  Besides  these  vorka, 
there  is  a  Cruciiixion,  in  silver,  a 
beautiful  work  of  BrnvtntOo  Celti\ 

Scarcely,  if  at  all  inferior  in  int 
to  these  palaces,  is  the  Casa  SoHisi, 
built  in  \R25  for  the  great  "  Maestro 
di  Musica,"  and  covered  with  Latin 
inscriptions  in  large  gold  letters,  taken 
chiefly  from  classic  writers.  Theu 
decdtatiuns  are  not  in  the  best  taste, 
and  were  added  it  is  said  by  the  arohi- 
lect,  during  the  absence  and  witboul 
the  knowledge  of  HnsaVnl,  vbose  fair 
feme  does  ngt  lenuito  an  wivuia  owm,. 


Apa/ 


tatious  parade.     In  the  front,  is  the 

following  from  Cicero :  •— 

**  Non  domo  doodniu,  sed  domino  domus." 

On  the  aide  is  an  inscription  from 
the  iEneid :  -^ 

**  ObUquitur  numeris  septem  disciimina 
vocuin 


Inter  odontum  lauri  nemus." 

Another  interesting  Casa  la  the 
bouse  of  Guercino,  in  which  the  great 
painter  liyed  during  his  residence  at 
Bologna :  it  is  in  the  small  piazza 
behind  the  Church  of  St  Niccolo 
degli  Albari,  Na  1647. 

Of  the'  other  public  buildings  and 
institutions  of  Bologna,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  to  the  architectural 
antiquary  is  the  Faro  de*  Mercanti,  or 
Falazzo  della  Mercanzia,  the  best  pre- 
served example  of  Italian  Gothic  in 
the  city.  It  was  built  in  1294  of 
moulded  brick-work,  and  restored  by 
the  Bentivoglio  during  their  political 
aaeendency.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce ;  but  it  has  nothing 
beyond  its  architectural  details  to  re- 
quire more  particular' description. 

Near  the  Foro  de*  Mercanti,  arc  the 
two  celebrated  leaning  towers,  called 
the  Torre  Asinelli  and  the  Torre  Ga- 
riacnda,  the  most  remarkable  edifices 
in  Bologna,  but  so  destitute  of  archi- 
tectural attractions,  that  Mr.  Matthews 
likens  them  to  the  *'  chimney  of  a 
steam-engine  blown  a  little  out  of  the 
perpendicular.'*  The  Torre  AsinelU, 
begun  in  1109  by  Gerardo  Asinelli, 
was  proved  by  Tadolini,  in  his  inves- 
tigations of  1779  and  1782,  to  have 
been  €nishcd  at  different  periods.  It 
is  a  square  and  massive  brick  tower, 
divided. into  three  portions;  the  low- 
est has  a  projecting  battlement,  and  is 
occupied  by  shops;  the  others  con- 
tract as  thuy  ascend,  and  the  whole  is 
surmounted  by  a  cupola,  used  occa- 
sionally as  an  observatory.  Tlie  height 
from  the  street  to  the  apex  of  the 
cupola,  is  256  Bolognese  fvct  7  inches, 
according  to  Bianconi  and  other  local 
authorities.  Hie  statements  of  tra- 
vellers, Italian  as  well  as  English,  on 
ihu point,  offir  an  amusing  instance 
ofibe  manner  in  wiiich  errors  of  this 


kind  are  perpetrated.  Alidosi  esti- 
mated the  height  at  260  feet  without 
the  cupola ;  Taruffi,  at  263  feet,  but 
without  stating  the  point  from  which 
his  measurement  began ;  Fra  Leandro 
Alberti  gives  it  as  316  feet ;  and  Ma- 
sini  as  376,  the  estimate  which  was 
followed  by  Mitelli  in  his  print  of  the 
Seven  Towers  of  Italy,  and  thus  pro- 
pagated among  succeeding  writers, 
who  have  taken  him  as  their  guide. 
Of  English  travellers,  Mr.  Woods,  by 
far  the  best  authority  on  architectural 
subjects,  gives  it  as  256  feet;  Mrs. 
Starke  327  Paris  feet ;  Mr.  Penning- 
ton, 376  feet ;  and  Mr.  Williams,  476 
feet  I  The  inclination  of  the  tower 
was  ascertained  by  careful  measure- 
ments, in  1706,  to  be  3  feet  2  inches, 
as  is  recorded  by  an  inscription  under 
the  statue  of  St.  Michael  the  Arch- 
angel, in  the  niche  of  the  western 
wall.  After  the  earthquake  of  1779, 
it  was  again  measured,  but  no  alter- 
ation was  discovered.  In  1813,  the 
Abb^  Bacelli,  professor  of  physics  in 
the  University,  assisted  by  Professor 
Antolini,  again 'measured  the  inclin- 
ation, and  found  that  it  had  slightly 
increased.  A  flight  of  447  steps  con- 
ducts to  the  summit  by  a  winding 
staircase,  which  is  one  of  the  rudest 
and  most  impracticable  in  Italy.  The 
view  is  fine,  extending  to  the  hills 
about  Verona,  embracing  Modena, 
Ferrara,  and  Imoia  ;  and  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  lower  slopes  of  the 
Apennines,  studded  with  villages  and 
b^utifully  wooded. 

The  other  tower,  the  Torre  Gari- 
Menda,  built  by  the  brothers  Filippo 
and  Oddo  Garisenda,  in  1110,  is  130 
feet  high,  according  to  the  local  au- 
thorities. Its  inclination,  measured 
from  its  axis,  was,  in  1792,  8  feet  to 
the  east,  and  3  to  the  south  ;  but  the 
experiments  of  Professors  Bacelli  and 
Antolini,  in  1813,  showed  an  increase 
of  an  inch  and  a  half  over  the  former 
observations.  Alidosi  and  other 
writers  have  endeavoured  to  maintain 
that  the  incVii\al\oYv  o^  V\\^  Ovtvsftvv^v^ 
is  the  effect  ot  an  \  «&  \^  IXaX'^  ^^^  "kvcA. 
present  an  abundaxice  o^  suO^i  waxk^'*' 


n  situation*  where  the  gmunit  isUHlile  the  ce 
0  gradual  sinking,  and  eBithquakei  by  Fi 
re  of  coinmon  occurreoce.      Tbe  best  \  by  Ci 


BOLOGNA. — Colleges. 

■bTiteA  anslnn 


1  Cigna 


fSecl.t 

t  Malpighi  is 
of  Mariani  ia 
tofthephi- 


lusopher  Sbaraglia  is  b;  Dunati 
simple  Tact  that  tbe  coureei  of  brick  |  In  the  adjoining  chape)  of  Sta.  Maria 
and  tbe  bo1e>  (o  receive  the  timben   de'  Bulgari  are  some  paintings  vbieli 
serve  a  visit  ;   Ihe   Annunciation,  al 
le  high  altar,  is  by  Culcart  (Flam- 
ingo) 1  and  the  tasteful  fi-eacoes  on 
'er,    Lne  walla,  represeotlng  the  history  oE 
ted    tbe  Virgin,  sibyls,  and  prophets,   are 
pplied  I  by  Ceii ;  they  are  well  preserved,  and 
' '  '     '  been  engraved   by    Canuti.  the 

ind  diffuse  the  knowledge 


of  the  floors  are  horisontel,  which  tbs} 
certainly  would  not  have  been  if  thi 
lower  had  been  built  in  its  present  in- 
clined form.   The  Ga  * 
has  a  higher  interest 
Jrora  Ibis  queMlon, 
Dante   willi  a  Sae  «imile,    in   wbiob 
he  compare*  the  giant  Ants-tu  stoop-  |  abli 
ing  to  seite  him  and  bis  guide, 


the  clouds  ai 


,  flying  oi 


of  the  I 


which  ai 


Y   u    ,rper      "■^^••^^^, 

-  The  noble  building  called  the  Seuo/e 

*"9,  tbe  ancient  seat  of  the  unieersity 

it  was  transferred  to  the  Insti- 

a  one  of  the  finest  edifices  in 

tologna.      It  was  designed,  in  1563, 

f  Tariiilia,  and  liaa  often  been  erro- 

insly  attributed  to  Vignola.      The 

Liole  Pie  were  establbhed  here  in 

ind  as  a  proof  that  the  great 

litien  are  not  backward  in  their 

in  of  the  poor,  tbey  aflbrd  gra- 


UherB,  partly  Uytnen  and  partly  ei 


digally  s, 

I  Tbe  Caarsh  Jacabi,  or  rfe'  J^'om- 
]  maghi,  Ihe  Flcmisb  College,  was 
founded  in  1S50,  by  Johann  Jacobs,  a 
■lemiib  goldsmith,  for  the  education 
of  young  men  of  Brussels  belonging 
to  the  parish  of  Notre  Dame  de  la 
Cbapelle,  and  elected  by  the  Oold- 
smiths'  Company  of  that  city.  The 
portrait  of  the  founder,  preserved  here, 
was  painted  by  his  friend  Guide. 

The  Spanish  Colli^,  with  tbe  high- 
sounding  title  of  ^Imo  CoUigia  Railt 
dtlia  niuatnuima  Natioae  ^Kgnitola, 
waa  (bunded  in  1364,  by  Cardinal  Al- 
bornoi.  It  was  formerly  remarkable 
tor  the  (rescoes  of  its  portico  by  j^n- 
nibalt  Caram,  in  his  youth,  but  tbey 
have  mostly  disappeared.  In  the 
upper  loggia  is  the  fine  fresco  by  Boj- 
nocamUa,  representing  the  Virgin  and 
Child  in  the  set  of  caressing  her,  St. 
Elizabeth,   St.  John,  and  St.  Josepb, 


writing,  arithmetic,  the  Ta( 

ge,  mngiog,  and  drawing :  »  „  ^  - 

■  legacy  of  Pro-  I  and  the  Cardinal  founder  kneeling  in 
ry  and!  veneration.      But  the  great  fi'esco  ot 
^.   The    Bflgnflcavallo,  representing  Charles  V. 
ichools   crowned    in  8.  Petronlo   by  Ciemint 
VIL,  although  much  injured,  is  by 
far  the  most  interesting  work,  because 
it  is  a  contemporary   record.     From 
this  clrcunislance  we  msy  r^ard  the 
picture  as  a  series  of  authentic  por- 
traits, in  the  precise  costume  of  the 
period  i  and  Biamincd  with  this  view 
each  liead  becomes  B  study  of  indi- 
vidual eliaractet. 
I,      The  CoUtgio  di  S,  Luigl, (oMwieii™ 


good  paintings  by  ii 

I,  fiiUafioi,  and  their  scholars.   I 

L  Ijw  loggie  above  are  several  intereslin 

memnrialsofdecensed  professors:   thi 

tf  tbe  physician  Muratoriis  by  hisai 

lished  daughter  Teresa,  with  tt 

■Dce  of  Cio  Giuseppe  dal  Sole 

>r  the  CsDonico  Pier  Francesi 

Peggi,  tho  philosopher,  erected  by  li 

pupils,  h  by  Giuseppe  Terzi ;   that 


PipeU  SiaiesJ}  r.  6« — ^bologna. — Theatres;  Acad,  of  Music.  69 


1645  bj  Count  Carlo  Zani,  occupies  ] 
a  palace  built  by  Torregglani  in  the  I 
banning  of  the  last  century.  It  has  j 
a  small  theatre,  remarkable  for  its  j 
scenes  by  Bibiena,  Scandellari,  and. 
Gaetano  AlemanL 

The    CoU^io    FaUuroU,    so   called 
from  the  eminent  architect  of  Bologna, 
who  founded  it  for  architectural  stu-  j 
dies  in  1825,   occupies  the  building 
formerly  used  as  the  Hungarian  Col- 
lege.    The  pupils  are  educated  here  I 
until  their  twentieth  year.     The  es-  j 
tablishment  is  well  managed,  and  no 
doubt  tends  to  keep  alive  the  arts  of; 
design  among  the  young  students  of  i 
Bologna,  where  such  an  institution  is  \ 
peculiarly  appropriate.     The  marble 
bust  of  Venturoli  is  by  Professor  Z>e- 
tmaritu       An  inscription   records  the 
valuable  legacy  of  books  bequeathed  I 
to  the  college  by  the  Marchese  Luigi ' 
Conti  CastellL 

The  Dogana,  or  Custom-house,  oc- 
cupies  the  ancient  church  of  S.  Fran- 
cesco, a  few  years  ago  no  less  remark- 
able for  its  Gothic  architecture  than 
for  the  riches  of  its  altars  and  convent: 
it  was  appropriated  to  its  present  pro- 
fane uses  at  the  revolution  of  1798. 
It  contains  some  interesting  tombs, 
among   which  are  that   of    Vianisio 
Albergati   the  younger,  by   Luzzaro 
Ca$ario;  and  that  of  the  learned  doctor 
Boccaferri,  from  the  design  of  Giuiio 
Romano;  with  a  bust  by  Girolamo  Cor- 
tellini.      **  A&suredly,'*   says   Valery, 
**  no  other  country  than  Italy  can  boast 
the  work  of  a  great  master  in  a  place 
generally  so  devoid  of  poetry.*'     The 
adjacent  portico  presents  another  re- 
markable  instance   of  works  of  art 
lavished  upon  street  decorations.     In 
its  lunettes  are  painted   the  miracles 
of  St.  Anthony  of  Padua ;  the  greater 
part  of  them  arc  by  Gio,  Maria  Tarn' 
Imrini,  a  favourite  pupil  of  Guido  ; 
three  are  by  GesMi ;  three  by  Tiarini  ; 
two  by  Pietro  Desani ;  and  one,  repre- 
senting the  Saint  preaching,  by  Afichael 
Angela  CoUtnna. 

The  Mint,  La  Zecca^  built,  it  is 
said,  from  the  design.t  of  Ttrribilia  in 
JS78,  is  tolerably  well  provided  with 


modern  machinery,  and  has  been  re« 
modelled  on  the  plan  of  the  mint  at 
Paris. 

The  Teatro  Comunale  was  built  in 
1756,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  palace 
of  Giovanni  II.  Bentivoglio,  which 
was  destroyed  by  the  populace  at  the 
instigation  of  Pope  Julius  II.  The 
design  of  the  theatre  is  by  Bibiena, 
but  it  has  been  frequently  altered  and 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the  modern 
opera.  The  curtain  representing  the 
marriage  of  Alexander  and  Roxana, 
is  considered  the  masterpiece  of  Signor 
Pietro  Fancelli,  a  living  painter  of 
Bologna,  and  the  worthy  coadjutor  of 
Signor  Ferri  in  the  scenes  and  other 
decorations  of  the  stage. 

The  Teatro  ContavaUi  was  built  in 
1814,  in  a  part  of  the  suppressed  Car- 
melite convent  of  S.  Martino  Mag- 
giore.  The  old  convent  stairs  serve 
fur  the  approach  to  the  modern  theatre 
—  another  of  those  strange  contrasts 
so  frequently  met  with  in  Italy. 

The  Teatro  del  Corso  was  built  in 
1 805,  from  the  designs  of  Santini,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  popular  places  of 
amusement  in  the  city. 

In  the  Palazzo  Bolognini,  near  the 
Strada  S.  Stefano,  a  Catino,  supplied 
with  literary  and  political  journals, 
was  formed  a  few  years  ago  for  the 
convenience  of  the  upper  classes,  with 
the  addition  of  musical  parties,  con- 
versazioni, and  balls. 

The  Accademia  de*  Filarmonici,  and 
the  Liceo  Filarmonico,  institutions  pe- 
culiarly appropriate  to  a  city  which 
boasts  of  being  the  most  musical  in 
Italy,  have  acquired  a  European  re« 
putation.      The  academy  was  founded 
i  by  Vincenzo  Carrati,  in  1666,  and  has 
I  numbered    among   its   members   the 
;  most  eminent  professors  of  the  two 
,  last  centuries.    The  Lyceum,  founded 
I  in  1 805,  by  the  common  council  of 
,  the  city  as  a  school  of  music,  is  en* 
richcd    with    the   unrivalled   musical 
^  library    and   collections  of  the  cele« 
I  brated   Padre  Martini,     llie  library 
I  contains  no  less  than  17^000  NOkW^cvK^ 
I  of  printed  musvc,  atvd  \.\v^  ^tv'ftsX.  ecJs.- 
I  lection  of  aucieul  tooftusw^^.  xo^Jsiia 


F 


aouTB 6— iBoLoGif A. — Efitnrons:  MezzoroHa,   fSect.Ii 


oalleclion  of  jtoitrai 


,  mnd  a  fine  series  of  ehoir-books 
icipul  BUtha- 


this,  founded  by  the  diud 
rities,  would  do  honour  to  oorporo- 
tioni  nearer  home  than  Bologna ;  and 
yet  we  are  told  that  traicllera  in  Italy 
si?e  and  nothing  to 
rivo  at  Ltfl  three  great 
I,  Florenie,  nome,  and  Naples. 
'  EtttUant  of  Balopna. 
P,  A  short  distance  heyood  the  Porta 
""     ■  ■■        s  the  cliurch  of  the  Aff- 
I,  ruined  In   the  wus  of  the 
anth    century,  and  partly  lebuilt 
li  little  regard  to  the  uniformity  of 
IB  ori^nal  plan.      It  contains  aome 
sofinlerest.     The  Annuncia- 
n  the  wall  of  the  small  na>e.  is 
e  Virgin,  at  the  Snd 
,  is  by  Lippo  Dalma^io  i  at  the 
is  the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Spirit, 
■tn:  at  the6tb,the  Virgin,  Child, 
d  8t  John,  attributed  to  fmuMxmio 
!  at  the  high  altar,  the  An- 
il and  the  Resurrection  are 
f  Frmeiai  Sth.lhe  TDbcmacle,  aup- 
d  by  four  Doelora  of  ibe  Church, 
■  eaived  in  eypcean  wood   by  Marca 
Cremona,  an  able  seulptar 
'bo  also  carted  tiie   orn^ 
its  of  the  organ  and  singing  gallery. 
J.  Outside  the  Porta  di  a  Mamolo  is 
urob  of  the  Amiunxiala,  be- 
)  (he    Frsneescan  convent. 
ft  Jt  has  some  interesting  jiatntings,  par- 
ticularly some   remarkable  eiamples 
of^oncja,  vhich  the  traveller  should 
lose  no  opportunity  of  studying.      In 
the  9nd  ohapel  ia  the  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  St.  John,  St.  Paul,  and  St. 
Francis,  by  this  celebrated  old  mauler. 
In  the  3rd  is  the  CmciliilDn,  with  the 
Magdalen,  the  Virgin,  St.  Jerome,  and 
St.  Francis,  by  the  same,  with  the  iti- 
«!riptian"FrancisAurifex."    41b,  the 
Sposalisio,  by  Coila.     5th,  St,  Francis 
in  eostacj.  by  Ge«i,  a  superb  painting ; 
worthy  of  Guido.     Sih,  llie  Madonna  ■ 
_(/e/  JIfonCe,  supposed  by  Massini  to  be  I 
*  Greet  painting,  Jiad  the  Inscriplion 


i-Dflfni 


on  the  bock  "  Opus  Lip; 
but  it  was  uiifununalely  cut  away  a 
few  years  back.  10th.  (he  Annunoia- 
lion,  with  St.  Francis  and  St.  George, 
another  beautiful  work  of  Franda. 
lEth,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by 
Maiiari.  ITth.  the  Si.  John  theEvui- 
gellst  is  from  the  design  of  Lodoriea 
Coracci  by  Aaltmia  PiHilli,  who  hal 
added  her  name  and  the  date,  Ifll4. 
Outside  the  chutcbisnlong  and  beau- 
tiful portico,  painted  in  Itesco  by  Gia- 
como  Lipi^  da  Uadiio  snd  other  pupils 
of  the  Caraeci.  The  Shepherds  wot. 
shipping  the  newly-lmm  &viour  is  by 
Poob  Coracci,  from  a  design  by  bia 
brother  Lodovico. 

Ttie  ancient  little  church  of  the 
Af<u2aH»idiilfuxaraffii,  built  in  HOG, 
was  formerly  one  of  (he  chief  museuma 
of  sacred  Italian  art.  Malvosia  and 
Lanzi  both  regarded  its  Irescoea  as  in- 

of  the  Bolognese  school.  Lan:&i  indeed 
BSV9,  "  This  cliurch  is,  with  respect  to 
the  Bolcgnese  whoo^  what  the  Campo 
Santo  of  Pisa  is  with  regard  to  the 
Florentine, — an  arena  where  the  heal 
artists  of  (he  14lh  century,  who  flou. 
rished  in  those  parts,  wrought  in  com- 
petition  with  each  other.  They  bara 
not  the  simplicity,  Ibe  elegance,  ths 
grouping,  which  o       •  ■ 


of  tl 


e  of  fan. 


colouring,  which  Michael  Angelo  and 
the  Caraeci,  considering  the  time  in 
which  they  II* ed,'th ought  bv  no  means 
contemptible.  On  the  contrary,  when 
these  pictures  began  to  exhibit  symp- 
toms or  decay,  they  advised  and  pro< 
moted  (heir  restoration.  Hence  in  thii 
church  there  were  painted  at  various 
limes  historical  pictures  from  the  Old 
and  New  Testament,  not  only  by  the 
scholars  of  Franco  Elolagnese,  but  by 
Galaaso  of  Ferrsra,  and  an  unknown 

in  his  Ma  maintains  to  he  Giotto  him- 
tf  these  early  fresco 


if  Fra 


given  by  I 
CD  Bolognese,  and  bv  whom 
rch  was  painted,  are  Vitali  da 
,  LiyreniD,  Siimmt  <la  BaliHiiui, 


J 


Pqul Siaiei.2i^*  6.-*bolo. — Environs:  S. Miehele.in Bosco.  71 


Jatepo  Avamzi,  and  Crittofcro,  recorded 
only  as  **  Cristoforo  pittore.**  But  their 
fireaeoes  have  suffered  severely  from  the 
effects  of  time,  and  more  particularly 
from   repairs  and  alterations  for  the 
convenience  of  the  adjoining  building. 
Of  those  which  remain,  the  following 
may  be  enumerated.    A  Nativity,  with 
a  multitude  oi  angels,  over  the  great 
door,  attributed  by  Malvasia  to  Vitale. 
On  the  right  wall  are  two  series  of 
subjects  from  the  Old  Testament :  one 
illustrating  the  Creation ;  Adam  and 
Eve,  with  Cain  and  Abel,  Eve  repre- 
sented as  spinning,  Adam  at  work,  and 
the  two  children  graceftiUy  at  play; 
Noah  building  the  ark.     In  six  other 
compartments  is  given  the  history  of 
Moses  :  four  of  these  are  fortunately 
well  preserved :    the   first  represents 
Moses  exhibiting  the  Tables  of  the 
Law  ;  the  second,  the  Punishment  of 
the  Rebels,  believed  to  be  by  Giotto  ; 
the  third,  the  Slaughter  of  the  Idola- 
ters ;  and  the  fourth,  the  Worship  ot 
the  Golden  Calf.  On  the  left  wall  are 
two  series  of  subjects  from  the  New 
Testament :    the   upper  begins  with 
the  Circumcision,  but  they  have  been 
spoiled  by  retouching.      Of  the  other 
series  oidy  two   remain,  the  first  of 
which  represents  Christ  healing  the 
Sick ;  and  the  second,  the  Probatica 
Piscina,  with   the  inscription    Simon 

fecit 

On  the  summit  of  the  Strada  del 
Monte  are  the  church  and  convent  of 
S.  Paolo  in  Afon/e,  recently  constructed 
from  the  desigpis  of  Dr.  Vannini.  The 
church  has  some  paintings  by  Pas- 
serotti,  Cavedone,  Elisabetta  Sirani, 
Carlo  Cignani,  &c. 

Not  far  fiom  this  are  the  Bagni  di 
Mario,  an  octagonal  building,  con- 
structed in  1564,  by  Tommaso  Lau- 
retti,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  and 
purifying  the  water  for  the  fountain  of 
Neptune.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  aqueduct,  built, 
it  is  said,  by  Marius,  and  restored  by 
Hadrian  and  Antoninus  Pius,  as  in- 
scriptions in  the  Museum  prove. 

On  the  hill  above  Bologna,  beau- 
tifuUjr  ntuated,  stands  the  church  of 


San  Michele  in  Boseo,  attached  to  the 
suppressed  monastery  of  the  OHvetans. 
This  great  establishment,  in  the  time 
of  Bishop  Burnet  one  of  the  finest  ex« 
amples  of  monastic  splendour  in  Italy, 
was  suppressed  at  the  French  invasion ; 
its  magnificent  halls  were  converted 
into  barrabks  and  prisons  for  con- 
demned criminals,  and  its  best  pictures 
were  carried  to  Paris.  The  walls  and 
ceilings,  painted  by  the  Caracci  and 
their  school,  are  gradually  falling  into 
ruin,  and  the  &mous  court,  which 
was  entirely  decorated  by  these  great 
artists,  is  now  a  melancholy  wreck. 
Many  of  the  paintings  have  entirely 
disappeared,  and  of  those  which  re- 
main the  subjects  are  hardly  to  be 
distinguished.  They  represented  the 
history  of  St.  Benedict  and  St.  Cecilia; 
those  by  Guido  were  retouched  only  a 
few  years  before  his  death. 

The  library  of  the  convent,  built 
from  the  designs  of  Giovanni  Giacomo 
Monti,  had  in  its  several  compart- 
ments paintings  illustrating  the  sub- 
jects of  the  works  contained  in  them  ; 
they  were  executed  by  Canuti,  a  pupil 
of  Guido,  at  the  suggestion  of  the 
Abb^  Pepoli,  but  they  have  shared  in 
the  general  ruin.  In  the  splendid 
dormitory,  427  feet  in  length,  is  pre- 
served the  dial  of  the  clock  painted 
by  Innocenzio  da  Imola  with  figures 
and  festoons  of  fruit. 

At  the  gate  called  La  Porta  di 
Saragozza,  is  the  magnificent  arch  de- 
signed by  Monti  in  1675,  as  a  propy- 
laeum  or  entrance  to  the  celebrated 
Portico  leading  to  the  Madonna  di  S, 
Luca,  This  extraordinary  example  of 
public  spirit  and  devotion,  which  we 
regret  to  say  sustained  some  damage 
during  the  Austrian  siege  of  1 849,  was 
projected  by  the  Canonico  Zeneroli  of 
Pieve  di  Cento,  who  presented  to  the 
senate  his  memorial  on  the  subject  in 
1672.  On  the  28th  June,  1674,  the 
first  stone  was  laid  between  what  are 
now  the  130th  and  131st  arches.  The 
portico  is  twelve  feet  broad,  and  fifteen 
feet  high,  and  consists  of  two  \ioTtvotk&^ 
'  one  c^led  ihe  PoiVXco  ^\  V\wv>yro-» 
the  other  the  V.  d«\U  ^\\\«i  \  Vt  \» 


r 


'2  RODTE  6.— bowiAa. — Envitons:  M.iH  S.Luca.  'fSect.  I 


.inued  II 


nAes 


seTerul  angles  in 

irregulorily  ofthe  ground.      In  1676, 

the  whole  portico  of  the  plaio,  eon- 

n«ting  of  SOS  arches,  was  completed 

at  the  cost  of  90,900  leudi.      Here 

PoTtica  delta  Salita  begins,  and  is 

:ed  totlic  firat  portico  b;  the  grand 

I,   called,  from  the  neighbouring 

t  the  coat  uf  the  Monti  faoiil 
C  Carlo  Fianeeseo  Duiti,  from  th 
'     m  at  Blbiena.      The  difficulties 
It  were  skilfully  overcome 
.lecta,  Gio.  Antonio  Conti, 
ttcKTi,  Albertoni,  and  Laghi ;  and  the 
I  rdised  by  the  voluntary 


ants,  aided 
a  of  the  corporation 


f  the  donatio 
id  religious  co 

^'  ripCioDS  recording  the 

Der.u;[ionG.      The    thtatres  even 
•noted  the  work  by  presenting  thi 


erforn 


fijrl 

^  incl 


the  purpose.     From  1576  to  1730, 
arches  of  the  ascent  were  hniiihed, 
I  the  fitieen  chapels  of  the  Rosary, 
the  cost  of  170,300  Bcudi;  and  in 
.73!)  the  entire portiflo  wascompleteU, 
including,  from  the  Porta  di  SarogoziH 
to  the  church,  no  less  than  6A5  arches, 

miles  in  length. 

The  magniheent  church,  occupying 
the  summit  ofthe  Monte  della  Cuar- 
dia,  derives  its  name  of  the  jUdi^nnu  iJi 
S,  Lhco,  from  one  of  those  numerous 
blaek  images  of  the  Virgin,  tradU 
tionally  attributed  to  St.  Luke. 


.ught  to 


in  IIGO,  by  a  hermit  from  Constan- 
Unople ;  and  is  still  regarded  with  so 
much  veneration,  that  its  annual  visit 
to  the  city  is  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
greatest  public  festivals  of  the  Bo- 
lognese.  The  church  was  built  in  the 
last  century  fi^om  the  designs  of  Dolti, 


I>anienico,  and  the  fiCleen  Mysteries 
of  the  Rosary,  in  the  3rd  chapel,  by 
^«^  remarkable  clixefly  as  one  of  his 


earliest  productions.  The  miraculous 
image  of  the  Virgin  is  preserved  !□ 
a  recess  above  Ihe  high  altar,  in  a 
case  of  marble  and  bronie  gilt,  the  do- 
nation of  Cardinal  Patlavjciai,  and  ia 
still  the  object  of  many  pilgrimages. 
The  view  from  Monte  della  GuardU 
is  alone  sufficient  to  repay  a  visit  to 
the  church.  The  rich  and  glowing 
plains,  from  the  Adriatic  to  the  Apen* 
nines,  are  seen  spread  out  like  a  map  in 
the  foreground,  studded  with  villages, 
ehuTches,  convents,  and  cities,  amonv 
which  Ferrara.  Mantua,  Modena,  and 
Imola  may  be  distinctly  recogniaei 
Towards  the  east  the  prospect  is 
hounded  by  Ihe  Gulf  of  Venice,  and 
on  the  west  and  south  the  eye  ranges 
along  the  picturesque  and  broken  line 

imagine  a  scene  mote  ehaiming  or 
more  beautiful. 

Ill  returning  to  the  city,  the  ancient 
Cerloia,  built  in  1335  by  the  Carthti. 
sian  monks,  and  suppressed  in  1797, 
deserves  a  visit.  It  was  consecrated 
in  1B02  as  the  pulilic  cemetery,  and 


'or  an  aitensive  Campo  Saulo 

It  was 

he  first  result  of  the  goveriL 

Napoleon,  nho  forbad  the  burial  of  the 

dead  within  the  city;  and  iu 

regul.. 

exclusion  of  sect,  although  a  separate 

nelosure  is  set  apart  for  Pro 

and  Jews.      The  church  still 

retains 

many  remarkable  paintings  i 

in   tllQ 

1  St  chapel  on  the  right  hand,  the  Last 

by  the 

side,  are  by  Canaft-/  the  S.  B 

■uno,  at 

the  altar,  is  by  Cesi.     The  oth 

erUrge 

»ion,i. 

ly  Bibitna,  the  founder  ofthe 

minent 

Bolognese  family  of  that  nan 

le,  and 

the  pupil  of  Albani,  whose 

tyle  is 

1   this 


In  t 


chapel  is  the  Su| 
the  Pharisee,  and  the  Magdalen  at  the 
feet  of  Chrbt,  by  Gio.  Andrea  Sirani. 
The  Baptism  of  Christ  is  a  large  and 
powerful  composition,  by  his  cele- 
brated daughter  EUiobriHa  Sirani,  the 
favourite  pupil  of  Cuido,  painted  in 


Papal  SiicUe$*'}  r.  6. — bologka. — Environs:  Casalecchio.    73 


her  name.  The  Miraculous  Draught 
of  Fiahes,  Christ  driving  the  M6ney- 
changers  from  the  Temple,  and  the 
lour  Carthusian  Saints,  were  the  last 
works  of  Gessi.  The  two  pictures  re- 
presenting Christ  entering  Jerusalem, 
and  Christ  appearing  to  the  Virgin 
with  the  host  of  patriarchs  after  the 
resurrection,  are  by  Lorenzo  Pasindli. 
At  the  high  altar,  the  Crucifixion,  the 
Christ  praying  in  the  garden,  and  the 
Deposition,  are  by  Cesu  In  the  inner 
chapel,  are  the  Annunciation,  by  Cesi; 
Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  a  half-length 
in  fresco,  by  Lodovieo  Caracci ;  S. 
Bernardino  in  fresco,  by  Amico  Atper- 
tinis  and  Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  by 
Mauari. 

The  Cemetery  occupies  the  spacious 
corridors  and  cloisters  of  the  convent, 
which  have  been  prepared  with  niches 
in  the  walls  to  receive  the  dead,  on  the 
plan  of  the  ancient  catacombs.  The 
general  effect  is  very  fine,  and  some 
of  the  tombs  and  monuments  are  re- 
markable not  only  for  the  names  they 
record,  but  for  the  character  of  their 
design.  Three  collections  of  engrav- 
ings from  these  monuments  have  been 
published,  as  well  as  two  volumes  of 
inscriptions,  composed  by  Professor 
Schiassi,  and  much  admired  for  their 
pure  Latinity. 

The  ancient  church  of  the  Capuccini 
contains  a  fresco  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  said  to  be  one  of  the  earliest 
productions  of  Annibale  Caracci.  At 
the  1  St  altar,  the  S.  Giuseppe  da  Leon- 
essa  is  by  Erede  Graziani ;  the  por- 
trait of  the  Bcata  Imelda  Lambertini 
in  fresco,  is  a  contemporaneous  work 
(1333),  and  is  therefore  regarded  as 
authentic.  In  the  3rd  chapel,  the 
Virgin  and  Child,  with  St.  Francis 
and  St.  Jerome,  half  figures,  are  by 
InnoctHzio  di  Imola ;  the  Sposalizio, 
at  the  high  altar,  is  by  Oruzio  SamaC' 
ehini  i  in  the  8th  chapel,  the  Cruci- 
fixion is  by  Paiserotii;  and  in  the  9th, 
the  Bt*ato  Lorenzo  da  Brlndisi  is  by 
Ereo/e  Graziani.  The  Madonna  and 
Child,  ill  fresco,  on  the  side  wall,  is 
l)y  Lijjfjfo  DaJmasi'o,  and  was  brought 
Jtere  itom  the  ruins  of  some  other 
CSemJl  ft. 


church.  The  singular  series  of  heads 
of  saints  is  regarded  as  the  work  of 
the  thirteenth  or  fourteenth  century, 
as  are  also  the  symbolical  paintings  of 
the  roof,  but  they  are  very  probably 
of  earlier  origin. 

Leaving  the  city  in  the  opposite  di« . 
rection,  at  the  Porta  Maggiore,  is  the 
Portico  degJi  Scalzi,  consisting  of  167 
arches,  and  1700  feet  in  length,  lead- 
ing to  the  church  called  Git  Scalzi, 
or  the  Madonna  di  Strada  Maggiore. 
The  church  has  some  good  paintings, 
among  which  may  be  remarked  a  very 
beautiful  Holy  Family  by  Pasinelli  j 
the  Sta.  Teresa  praying,  by  Canuti ; 
the  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  by 
Sabbatini,  and  other  works  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school. 

The  sulphureous  Baths  of  Porrettat 
discovered  early  in  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury, and  celebrated  by  numerous 
medical  writers  of  the  succeeding  age, 
still  maintain  an  undiminished  po- 
pularity in  cutaneous  and  glandular 
affections.  They  are  situated  in  an 
elevated  but  sheltered  nook  of  the 
Apennines,  close  to  the  frontier  of 
Tuscany,  and  upon  the  ^Reno,  which 
rises  in  the  rocky  recesses  beyond 
them.  A  good  road  from  Bologna, 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  leads 
(32  miles)  to  the  baths,  where  good 
accommodation  is  provided  for  visi- 
tors and  invalids.  To  those  who  are 
disposed  to  devote  a  few  days  to  excur- 
sions among  the  mountains,  a  more 
convenient  spot  for  the  purpose  could 
hardly  be  discovered. 

In  concluding  this  notice  of  the 
environs  of  Bologna,  CasalecchiOf  the 
scene  of  the  great  battle  in  which 
Giovanni  Bentivoglio  was  overthrown 
by  thearmy  of  Gian  Galeazzo,  must  not 
be  forgotten.  The  allied  army  of  Flo- 
rence and  Bologna,  under  Bentivoglio 
and  Bernardo  de  Serres  had  encamped 
at  Casalecchio,  contrary  to  the  judg- 
ment of  the  latter  general,  who  was 
anxious  to  have  retired  within  the 
walls  of  the  city.  While  they  were 
awaiting  Te\i\ioTCcmttA^  ^xovcv  "^\<i- 
rence,  the  MV\arkese,\xudLet  W\w\%o  ^% 
Barbiano,  gave  WAem\>«X>\^,  ^>\\i^*I^« 


f 

■       of 


B,  G BOLOGKA. — Climax,  Dialect,  Bjc.-     tSecr.  T. 


1402.      The  BiiluBnese  Irgops,  weary 
e  tyraoiiy  oi'  BentWoglio,  refused 


loHglit;  UeniBi 

priioncr;  tho  inhab 
by  the  bithlesi  pro 

Goziadini  sad  ti  - 


utht 


migranlB  by 
Uian  UbIebho,  that  he  voulil  n-gtore 
their  republic,  opened  the  gates  to  tlie 
Milanese,  and  two  diiys  aftcra'ards 
Bentivoglio  vax  maissered  at  the  order 
of  Barbiano.  In  1511,  Casalecchio 
was  the  scene  of  the  victory  gained  hy 
the  Sieur  de  Chauirant,  general  of 
Louis  Xil.,  oyer  the  troops  of  Ju- 
liui  II.,  commaailed  by  the  Dulce  of 
Urbinu.  It  was  fought  on  the  Slat 
of  May,  and  wai  allied  the  "  day  of 


the  co)de^  ai 
city  in  Italy;  il  is  fair,  I 
say  that  no  proof  of  these 
founded  upon  actual  obst 


idercd  healthy, 
mer  Ihe  hottest 


Bologna,  from  it 


imply  provided  with  the  necessaries 
and  luxuries  of  life,  with  a  learned 
and  intellectual  society,  to  say  nothing 
of  its  irorks  of  art,  is  peculiarly  calcu- 
lated to  be  an  agreeable  residence. 
Tbe  Bolognese  dialect,  of  dl  the 


s  of  un» 


u  spee 


e  tlie   Frei 


s  Uden 


.  by  tl 


f   Graaa,    givi 


.   Paul   Van 


tAe,  of  Leydcn,  in  t! 

_  _  "  18  aa  much  to  the  Uting 

.  id  culinary  delicaoles  of  the  inhabit' 

lliuts  OS  to  the  productions  of  its  ibrtih 

"  rritory.  The  wincsof  Hsneighboiir- 

jod  are  very  tolerable,  and  the  fruits. 

iRioularly  the  grapes,  are  much  es- 

The  nutrladcl/a,  everywhere 


,   Gellius  Par. 

Forsyth  says,  "  with  all  tlie 
n   its  bosom,    Bologna  has 
I  dialect,  that  dialect  which 
lircd  as  the  purest  of  Italy, 
degenerate   into   a    coarse,    thick, 
truncated  jargon,  full  of  apocope,  anil 
'     ?lligible    to  strangers;"    and  it 
I  be  difficult,  we  believe,  to  find 


ulfercd  in 


s  the  Bolt^na  sausage, 


still 


Bolognese,  we  may  refer  tc 
known  description  by  Tasst 


r  of  the 


bites,  is 


culiai 


nilde§"b 


"Mr.  Beckford  has  designated  Bo-  This  character,  at  Brst  sight  so  fo 
'  I'nppy  dogs  and  midable,  would  seem  to  refer  to  tl 
;b  of  Bologna,  so  independent  spirit,  and  to  the  love  i 
iMlBbrated  iu  tbe  middle  ages,  which  '  political  freedom  imbibed  trom  the 
city  arms,  and  are  1  ancient  republican  institutions.  It  has 
!  epitaph  on  King  been  a  fashion  with  many  pssai 
)  in  Ihe  church  of  S.  Domenico,  tourists  of  our  own  time  to  depreci 
rarthy  of  more  respect  than  is  the  Bolognese;  but  the  calumny,  if 
d  in  diis  flippant  remark  :  they  there  ever  were  any  foundation  for  i 
e  unfortunately  disappeared,  and  applies  no  longer;  and  in  educaiio 
)   trace    of  their    pure    breed    can    in  character,  and  in  the  arts  and  civ 

IV  be  discovered.  lisation  of  life,    Bologna  stands  pro- 

In  a  University  town,  so  celebrated  |  minentiy  forward  in  the  Rrst  tan! 

IS  liiedicat  professors,  the  invalid  I  European  cities, 
n  never  be  Bta  loss  for  good  advice;         A   diligence    which   runs    twi< 
e  ardiaaiy  lee,  either  for  physicians  |  week  between  Rome  and  Milan  keeps 
„  J   pauts,    and    for  ,  up    a  ronalanl   convmunieation 

WfpJe  coasultalioa  tvo  scudi.  '  those  two  capiW\^W\,'Ais>  asWi 


Pi^xil  Siaies.^  »•  7- — ^bologna  to  Florence. — Pieiramala.  76 


tiresome  conveyance.  The  time  it  re- 
quires for  the  journey  between  Bologna 
and  Rome,  without  stopping  to  sleep 
on  the  road,  is  not  less  than  ninety 
boars  I  The  courier  is  more  certain, 
but  the  traveller  cannot  secure  a  seat 
until  he  arrives,  and  must  then  take 
his  chance  of  finding  one  vacant.  A 
procaccio  passes  twice  a-week  by  the 
Canale  Naviglio,  between  Bologna 
and  Ferrara. 

Travellers  who  are  desirous  of  pro- 
ceeding from  Bologna  to  Rome,  with- 
out passing  through  Florence  (Route 
7.),  may  follow  the  interesting  road 
throu^  Forli,  and  along  the  Adriatic 
to  Ancona  (Route  14.),  from  whence, 
or  indeed  from  Fano,  higher  up 
(  Route  16.),  a  post-road  &lls  into  the 
high  Roman  road  at  Foligno.  This 
would  also  enable  them  to  visit  Ra- 
venna (Route  12.). 


ROUTE  7. 

BOLOGNA   TO    FLOAENCE. 

Bologna  to  Pianoro 
Piano  ro  to  Lojano    - 
I^jano  to  Filigare    - 
Filigare  to  Covigliajo 
Covigliajo  to  Monte  Carelli 
Monte  Carelli  to  Cafaggiolo 
Cafaggiolo  to  Fontebuona 
Fontebuona  to  Florence     - 


Posts. 

-  n 

-  n 
- 1 

- 1 

- 1 

- 1 

- 1 

- 1 


(64  miles) 


[nnM  OH  the  road:  JLojano,  poor;  La 
Cd  (papal  frontier),  clean;  Pieiramala 
(beyond  Tuscan  frontier),  very  toler- 
able ;  Coviijliajo,  post-house,  very  com- 
fortable, and  the  best  on  the  road; 
Le  Maschere,  also  very  tolerable. 

The  road  from  Bologna  to  Florence 
crosses  the  Apennines,  which  separate 
the  plains  of  Lombardy  from  Tus- 
cany. It  is  a  well-kept  road,  but  in 
many  places  excessively  steep,  and  so 
badly  constructed,  that  on  every  post 
except  that  out  of  Bologna  there  are 
severe  pulls,  re<juiring,  for  the  most 
part,  oxun  besides  the  usual  renforU. 
'She  time  occupied  in  performing  the 


journey  is  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hours 
by  post,  and  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
by  vetturino.  The  scenery  of  these 
Apennines  is  often  picturesque  and 
pleasing,  but  it  wants  the  grandeur  and 
boldness  of  the  Alps.  The  vegetation 
appears  stunted  and  colourless,  and  the 
outline  of  the  mountains  presents  a  se- 
ries of  gentle  undulations  without  any 
precipitous  or  defined  peaks ;  but  the 
aspect  of  the  deep  and  well-wooded 
valleys  by  which  ihey  are  intersected, 
and  the  occasional  ^bursts  of  romantic 
scenery  which  the  windings  of  the 
road  disclose,  are  sufficient  to  make 
amends  for  these  deficiencies. 

From  Bologna  to  Pianoro  the  road 
gradually  rises  through  the  rich  plains 
which  extend  to  the  very  base  of  the 
mountains ;  soon  after  leaving  the  city 
it  crosses  the  Savena. 

1^  Pianoro.  From  hence  to  Lojano 
an  additional  horse  is  required  for 
every  pair,  with  oxen  for  the  very 
steep  ascents.  The  price  of  the  extra 
horse  is  six  pauls.  The  road  begins 
to  ascend  rapidly  at  this  point,  pre- 
senting  some  fine  views  over  the  rich 
plains  of  Bologna. 

1)  Lojano.  A  post  station  with  a  poor 
inn.  From  this  elevated  spot  the  view 
is  very  striking  and  extensive ;  the  eye 
ranges  along  the  chain  of  distant  Alps, 
embracing  the  vast  basin  of  the  Vo 
from  Turin  to  the  Adriatic,  Milan, 
Verona,  Padua,  Bologna,  with  occa- 
sional glimpses  of  the  majestic  river 
winding  through  these  rich  and  fertile 
plains.  'Ilie  papal  frontier  is  at  La  C(t, 
where  the  inn  is  clean,  having  lately 
been  done  up. 

1  Filigare,  the  first  station  of  the 
Tuscan  frontier,  is  1  mile  bevond  the 
custom-house,  where  passports  are 
examined  and  viseed,  and  the  trunks 
generally  plumbed.  There  is  a  very 
tolerable  inn  at  Pietramala,  t3  miles 
farther.  This  upper  portion  of  the 
Pass  being  about  midway  between  the 
two  seas,  is  much  exposed  to  stonns, 
and  is  bitterly  cold  in  winter.  About 
a  mile  and  a  V\a\?  \to\tv  \^\viVc«c««\'^  vi 
a   singular   pVvcuoTtvewow,   e«JXvi\  ^\vi 

"  FUOCO    dv  UgWO,"'    Vf\\\M\\   ^V!Sft\N^^  ^ 

1.M 


ROUTE   "7. BOIOGITA    TO   FLORENCE. 


Ihe  Manic  di   Fn,  ii 


e  of  n 


land 


oetry,  under  the  general  tiauie< 


[;Sect.I. 
Ilie  his* 
ifVal 


L  Mugtdlo. 
tight  lead*  to  Ptato  and  Kstoja. 
.  On  approMhino  the  valley  of  Ibe 
'  Sieve,  about  midway  between  Monte 
I  Carelli  and  Cafaggiolo  is  Lt  Ma,- 
I   c/iere,  formerly  a  nobleman's  country- 


with  loose  I 
stones,  from  among  wliicb  flames  i 
M  foot  bigh  Eonstantly  issue,  pre 
ing  an  appearance  like  tlie  fire 
coal-mine.  The  flames  always 
b tightest  in  stormy  wealliar  when 
crackle  and  rise  to  a  height  of  three  ,  and  so  picturesquely  plsied  that 
feet  or  more.  They  deposit  a  earbo-  many  traiellers  desirous  of  seeing 
naceous  matter  tike  soot,  and  give  out  more  of  the  beauties  of  these  Apen- 
considerable  heat.  The  colour  some-  nines  make  it  their  halting-place  tbr 
' '  H  the  flame  of  spirits  of  days,  and  even  weeks,  "  Seated,  on 
'■     '  '       '  ......  yjjj  ^j.  j[^g  Apennines, 


d  by  the  country 
people  as  blue  by  day  and  yellow  by 
night  I  Volla  investigated  these  phe- 
nomena, and  attributed  (hem  to  the 
of  oiygen  gas,  haying 
n-ith  the  surface.  An- 
mon  near  Pietramala  is 
_  called  the  ^cgua  Baja,  which 
bubbles  up  like  boiling  wa 


'bite  c 


isengagemi 
:her  phenon 


the 
itiful  tale 


bowt 


le  cold,  and  lakes  fire 


applying  a  light,  hi 
dame  passing  into  yellow. 

From  Pietramala  a  atcep  asee 
about  three  miles  brings  us  to—^ 

1  Covigliajo,  a  solitary  post-h, 
ivhiob  had  in  former  days  a  bad  r 


blue 


I  such  a 


s  here 


mouths,  and  » 
all  seasons  adyitahle  on  this  journey. 
Four  miles  further  of  rapid  rise  bring 
u!  to  the  summit  of  the  Pass  called 
Monte  Redicoso,  which  was  ascer- 
tained, by  the  barometrical  measure- 
ments of  Sir  George  Shuckburgh,  in 
1775,  to  be  I<K)l  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea;  by  the  Italian  authorities 
it  is  given  as  S718  Paris  feet.  Near 
the  custom-house  station  of  Fula,  be- 
1  Covigliajo  and  Mi 


the  highest 

it  oierlosks  the  brow  of 
which,  although  covered  v 
almost   perpendicular; 

of  Arno,  bound  by  a  circle  of  magni- 
ficent hills,  sometimes  rising  in  Ncclii 

bold  promontories,  cultivated  to  ths 
very  summit  with  the  vine  and  olive, 
interspersed  with  fruit  and  forest  trees, 
and  thickly  studded  vith  villaa,.coD< 
vents,  and  churches,  presenting  bo 
aspect  of  eltraordinary  animation  and 
beauty.  Turning  from  the  eontempla. 
tion  of  this  rich,  lively,  and  cultivated 
landscape,  to  the  bold  country  spread 
abroail  among  the  Apennines  behind 
the  Maschere,  you  behold  a  prospect 
flnely  contrasting  nature  in  all  its 
most  polished  splendour  with  the  wild 


-Jo/ta 


r   of  n 


nail  post  station 


1  Ca^ggiolo,  a 
au  the  tiglit  bank  ol  the  aieve.  A 
short  distance  beyond  it  the  old  road 
from  Bol.'gna  to  Florence  through 
Fireniuola  and  Scarperia  falls  into 
this  route.  About  midway  between 
this  and  the  next  station  we  pass  the 
villages  of  Tagliaferro  and  Vaglia, 
'  ■■  the  torrent  Carta,  whose  left 
upwards  to  Fon- 


tlie  river  Santemo  has  its  origin.      By  '  bank  the  road  Iblli 

a  rapid  descent  we  reach  I  tehuona.     On  an  eminence  on  Ibe  left, 

I  Monie  Carelli.      From  thin  post-   surrounded  by  cypress  plantations 

station  lo  CovigllajQ,  a  third  horse,  or  j, seen  the  picturesque  convent  of  Mo 

oxen,  are  required  by  the  tariff.      The    Senariu,  hclonglng  to  the  Servitej. 

rond  mounts    from    (his   place  before        I  FonWbuona.    X  Hiitd  horse  is 

'o  descend  .-•earn  into  those  beautiful    ciissary  fcora  tWmce  W  iVvs  Wai: 


/Irpo/  Statet."}      route  8. — Florence  to  forli. 


Y7 


and  there  is  a  very  steep  ascent  on 
leaTuig  this  post-house  going  south- 
ward. A  short  distance  beyond  Fonte- 
buona  on  the  left  is  Pratolino,  once  the 
faTourite  seat  of  the  Grand  Dukes  of 
Tuscany,  situated  on  the  southern 
slopes  of  a  hill  embosomed  in  fine 
trees.  The  beautiful  villa,  designed 
by  the  great  Florentine  architect  Ber- 
nardo Buontalenti,  for  Francesco  de* 
Medici,  son  of  Cosmo  I.,  to  receive  his 
celebrated  mistress  Bianca  Capello,  has 
long  been  demolished.  The  money  la- 
▼ished  upon  its  decorations,  its  giuochi 
^aequa,  &c.,  most  of  which  are  in  the 
worst  taste,  amounted  to  no  less  a  sum 
than  782,000  crowns,  an  expenditure 
upon  which  the  Grand  Duke  Fer- 
dinand II.  gave  an  expressive  com- 
mentary when  he  said  that  the  money 
there  wasted  would  have  built  a  hun- 
dred hospitals.  Besides  the  grottoes, 
fountains,  and  labyrinths  of  Pratolino, 
there  is  a  colossal  monster,  called  the 
statue  of  the  Apennines,  sixty  feet  in 
height,  conceived  in  the  worst  possible 
taste,  and  little  fitted  for  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  such  a  city  as  Florence. 
Tlie  artist's  name  is  happily  unknown  ; 
for  although  some  recent  travellers 
have  hinted  at  John  of  Bologna  and 
Benvenuto  Cellini,  no  one  who  has 
studied  their  works  can  imagine  for  a 
moment  that  either  of  these  great  men 
is  answerable  for  such  a  deformity. 
The  beauties  of  Pratolino  and  of  Bi- 
anca are  frequently  celebrated  by  Tasso ; 

"  Dianii  all*  ombra  di  fama  occulta  e  bruna. 
Quasi  giacesti,  Pratolino,  ascoso ; 
Or  la  tua  donna  tanto  onor  t'  aggiunge, 
Che  picga  alia  seconda  alta  fortuna 
(ill  antichi  gioghi  1'  Apcnnin  ncvo8o ; 
Ed  Atlante,  ed  Olimpo,  ancor  si  lungo, 
Nd  con  flu  la  tua  gloria  a«conde  e  verra: 
Ma  del  tuo  piccioTnome  empi  la  terra.'^ 

Hime,  S60. 

TIic  rapid  descent  hence  to  Florence, 
along  an  excellent  road,  is  one  of  the 
fine%t  drives  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 
Every  eminence  is  studded  with  villas; 
the  country,  rich  in  vineyards  and 
olive-groves,  seems  literally  "  a  land 
of  oil  and  wine;**  cultivation  appears 
in  its  highest  perfection;  the  Etriis- 
CMa  fortress  of  Fiesole,  consecrated  by 


the  geaius  of  Milton,  rises  magni- 
ficently from  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Mugnone ;  and  Florence,  with  its 
domes,  and  campaniles,  and  battle* 
mented  towers,  bursts  upon  the  view. 
This  approach  recalls  the  remark  of 
Ariosto,  that  if  all  the  villas  which  are 
scattered  as  if  the  soil  produced  them 
over  the  hills  of  the  Yal  d'Arno  were 
collected  within  one  wall,  two  Romes 
could  not  vie  with  Florence. 

"  A  veder  pien  di  tante  ville  i  colli. 
Per  che'  I  tcrren  vele  germogli,  come 
Vermene  gennogliar  suole,  e  rampoIlL 

Se  dentro  un  mur,  sotto  un  medesmo  nome 
Fosser  raccolti  i  tuoi  palazzi  sparsi, 
Non  ti  sarian  da  pareggiar  due  Rome.** 

Rime,  cap.  xvL 

Florence  is  entered  by  the  Porta 
San  Gallo,  the  only  one  which  is  kept 
open  at  night. 

1  Florence  ;  described  in  **  Hand- 
book for  Northern  Italy." 


ROUTE  8. 

FLORENCE    TO    FORLI. 

Florence  to  Dicomano   20  miles. 

Dicoinano  to  S.  Bene- 
detto     -         -         -   18    — 

Benedetto  to  Rocca  S. 

Casciano         -         -    12   -^ 

Rocca  to  Forll  -    20  — 


70  miles. 

Inns  on  the  road:  DicomanOy  Pas- 
serini;  Leone  d'Oro :  between  S,  Go- 
denzo  and  S.  Benedetto^  Osteria  Nuova; 
5*.  Benedetto^  Leone  d'Oro;  Rocca 
San  Casciano^  Giglio. 

This  is  a  very  excellent  mountain 
road,  recently  opened  by  the  Tuscan 
government,  for  the  purpose  of  esta- 
blishing a  direct  communication  across 
the  Apennines  between  Florence,  Ri- 
mini, Ravenna,  and  the  other  towns 
on  the  north-western  shore  of  the  Ad- 
riatic. It  is  in  admirable  order,  and 
is  constructed  on  the  best  principles 
of  modern  engineering. 

A  diligence,  or  rattier  a  lat^<i  vel- 
turino  eaTTiage  VvW\  \\\«i  yw^^,\«v*^'^ 
Florence  tV\Tee  X\me%  »,  -wsi^  ^vix  '^  o\^^ 
.changing    \\ot«iS   a\.  Wvcom^cv^    ^tv 


S   8. — FLORENCE   TO   fORLI. 


CSecur 

Racca.  Il  teaxes  FJorence  at  mid- |  of  the  ascent  incrcs-ies,  but  Ihe  load  is 
niglit,  arrives  at  Dicomano  nlwut '  sdmirsbly  conatrurtnl,  although  it 
6  A.U.,  reaches  tho  summit  of  tlie  pass '  appears  dangerous  in  parts  <iom  being 
■Unit  11,  Birivus  at  Rucca  about  9,  j  insufficiently  protected  above  the  deep 
KtidBt  Forli  about?  e.u.  The  fare  is  ravines.  The  suniniit  is  usually  reached 
95  pauls.  The  time  occupied  in  tlie  by  the  diligence  about  11  A.  h.  The 
journey  n-nuld  be  less  in  a  private  car-  descent  is  gradual  end  well  managed  ; 
riage  or  a  hired  vetlurino,  and  dilTer-  |  the  Osteria  Nuova  is  soon  paswd,  and 
eot  resting-places  would  probably  be  the  road  shbrtlj  reaches  the  banks  of 
chosen  according  to  the  conienieocc  of  the  Montone,  along  trtiieli  it  is  carried 
the   parties.      The  journey,   liovever,   to  Forll. 

would  be  loo  long  and  too  fatiguing  1 B  m.  Sin  Benedrtlo.  This  place  is 
for  many  iravellers  if  performed  in  a,  about  half-way  bctn-eon  Florence  and 
single  day,  and  io  tbal  ease  San  Bene-  I  Fori] ;  it  has  an  excellent  inn,  the 
detto  would  be  the  best  halting-place  |  Lconed'oro,  the  best  on  the  road,  and 
for  the  fi[£t  night.  These  matters  although  the  diligence  does  not  stop 
should  be  arranged  with  the  lettuiino  I  there,  it  would  be  the  most  eli^ble 
before  departure  from  Florence.  A  I  resting-place  for  travellers  in  n  private 
party  of  two  or  three  would  find  it  i  carriage.  If  the  journey  lie  divided 
mucb  more  ag;rcca1>lc  to  hire  a  car- |  iuto  two  days,  San  Benedetto  would  be 
riage  for  tbe  journey  than  to  travel  the  proper  sleeping  place.  Between 
by  tlie  diligence ;  and  it  ought  not  to  this  village  and  Rocca,  the  road  pasiei 
'le  much  more  eipensive.  through  Portico,  an  old  fortified  town. 


e  by  the  Ronii 
road  through  Aretzo,  we  proceed  along 
the  lianks  of  the  Aruo  as  fitr  as  the 
first  post  on  that  Route,  Ponlossicve, 
where  the  Fori!  road  strikes  off  to  the 
noith-cast,  and  ascends  the  valley  of 
the  Sieve  as  far  as  Dicomano.  The 
soanery  is  very  Gne  io  many  parts,  but 
it  becomes  wild  and  rugged  as  we  ap- 
proaab  tho  lofiy  chain  of  Apennines 
over  which  the  road  is  carried.  Like 
many  other  by-roads  of  llaty.  this 
route  would  enable  the  pedestrian  to 
fill  his  sketch-book  with  picturesque 
scenes,  whiLli  have  never  yet  been 
Ulustrated  by  the  artist. 

20  m.  Dicumamr,  the  first  stage.  It ; 
is  prettily  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Apennines, 


12    i 


:    Caici 


,  the 


second  stage  of  the  diligence,  (Am, 
I.ocando  del  Giglio,  very  tolerable.) 
A  town  situated  on  tbe  junction  rf 
two  small  streams  (the  Flume  di  B. 
Antonio  and  the  Ridazio)  with  tbs 
Montone:  it  contains  nothing  of  in- 
terest. Leaving  Monte  Groaoo  and 
Monte  Colombo  on  the  right,  the  road 
proceeds  hence  to  Davadola,  and  soon 
arrives  at  the  frontier  town  of  Ttm 
dtl  Sob.  We  here  leave  Tuscany,  and 
enter  thfe  Papal  SUtes  at  Roiwe,  wbero 
iggage  and  passports 


A  feei 


an  old  It 


i  and  tl 


rouble  . 


.   FoBii  (described  ii 


"ng    t 


town,  ihe  rond  proceeds  up  the  valley 
of  tbe  San  Godenzo.  At  Carbonile 
eitra  horses  are  put  on,  in  order  to 


forlI  tc 


A  good  country  road  of  about  SO 
liles,  lying  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
ister  ine  aseeui,  wnicn  is  eitremciy  I  Jtonco,  which  is  confined  in  its  narrow 
ep.  The  village  of  Sa«  Gadmo,  \  channel  by  high  banks  tliroughout  its 
'Ugh  which  the  road  passes,  is  si-  i  course  to  the  sea.  Like  the  following 
■i/amoDjricii/j-woodedand  agree-  Route, iWis  rDateyieSBiAsBBnteKBian 
cenerp     Befoad  i(  the  steepness  ,  ot  farm-housea  tt«A\-j  seeWfitei,  inra  a 


Papal  Stalei.'}    bouteII. — Venice  to  ravenna. 


79 


country  which  is  surpassed  by  no  dis- 
trict of  Italy  in  fertility  or  cultivation. 
20  m.  Ravenna  (  Route  1 2).  j 

ROUTE  10. 

FAXNZA  TO  RAVENNA. 

A  cross-road  of  2J  Posts. 

An  agreeable  drive  of  about  three 
hours  through  a  country  of  extraor- 
dinary fertility,  having  more  the  cba> 
racter  of  a  succession  of  highly  culti- 
vated farms  than  a  public  road.  To 
the  English  traveller,  the  neat  ap- 
pearance of  the  &rm-houses  with  their 
gardens  and  poultry-yards  will  recall 
many  recollections  of  home.  Soon 
after  leaving  Faenza,  the  road  crosses 
the  Lamone.  Between  Russi  and 
Godo,  which  lie  on  the  right  of  the 
road,  the  present  route  falls  into  the 
high  road  from  Bologna  to  Ravenna 
through  Lugo. 

2^  Ravenna  (Route  12). 

ROUTE  11. 

▼ZNICE   TO     RAVENNA,    BY   THE    CANALS 
AND    THE    COMACCUIO. 

About  90  miles. 

Venice  to  Chioggia,  20  miles. 
Chioggia  to  CavancUa,  2  posts. 
Cavanella  to  Mesola,  2  — 
Mesola  to  Pompc^a,  2  — 
Pomposa  to  Magnavacca,  2  -^ 
Magnavacca  to  Primaro,  1  — 
Primaro  to  Ravenna,        2  -^ 


11  posts. 

Inns  on  the  road :  Mesohi^  a  tolerable 
locanda. 

Ilie  traveller  who  is  desirous  of 
proceeiiing  from  Venice  to  Ravenna 
by  the  shortl'st  route,  may  cither  do  so 
by  sea  in  one  of  the  large  grain-boats 
to  be  found  in  all  the  northern  ports 
of  tiic  Adriatic;  or  by  means  of  the 
canals  with  whit'h  the  vast  lagunes 
)>etwccn  the  two  cities  are  abundantly 
intersected.  In  the  latter  case,  he  will 
find  tba^  although  only  a  short  portion 
of  the  route  cau  be  performed   in  a 


carriage,  there  is  a  series  of  post  sta- 
tions from  Chioggia  to  Ravenna,  the 
route  being  estimated  at  1 1  posts.  The 
distance  from  Venice  to  Chioggia  is 
20  miles;  the  posts  from  thence  are 
as  follows :  —  Cavanella  2,  Mesola  2, 
Pomposa  2,  Magnavacca  2,  Primaro 
1,  Ravenna  2=11  posts. 

A  person  having  his  own  carriage 
must  be  prepared  to  run  all  risks  of 
trans-shipment  from  the  ferry-boats 
he  will  meet  with  ;  but  a  traveller  not 
so  encumbered  will  do  well  to  rely  on 
the  canal  boats  and  on  the  carriages 
of  the  country,  which  he  will  find  at 
Mesola  to  convey  him  to  Ravenna. 

It  may  be  useful  to  premise,  that 
persons  proceeding  by  this  route  will 
have  the  best  possible  opportunity  of 
visiting  the  famous  Murazzey  or  great 
wall  of  Venice,  during  their  progress ; 
as  the  boat  must  pass  along  it,  whether 
it  follows  the  canal  inside  the  island 
of  Malamocco,  or  sails  round  it. 

The  ordinary  course  is  to  proceed 
down  the  Malamocco  canal,  and  from 
i  thence,  inside  the  long  narrow  island 
which  lies  beyond  it,  to 

Chioggia  or  Chioza,  This  would  be 
the  best  resting-place  for  the  first 
night.  The  time  occupied  in  rowing 
the  distance  in  a  six-oared  boat  is 
about  six  hours :  it  would,  of  course, 
be  much  shorter  in  a  sailing-boat, 
with  a  fair  wind.  Chioggia  is  a  fine, 
well-built  town,  with  a  convenient 
port,  much  frequented  by  the  coasting 
traders  of  the  Adriatic.  Its  history 
and  association  with  the  naval  achieve- 
ments of  Venice,  recalling  "  the  Do- 
ria's  menace,"  so  beautifully  sung  in 
"  Childe  Harold,"  belong  to  the  de- 
scription of  that  city,  and  need  not  be 
particularised  here.  Leaving  the  town, 
we  proceed  along  the  Canal  di  Valle, 
crossing  the  Bacchiglione  (often  called 
here  the  Brenta),  and  the  Adige,  to 
Cavanella;  ascend  the  Adige,  for  a 
short  distance,  and  then  follow  the 
Canal  di  Loreo  to  Cavanella  di  Po,  on 
'  the  left  bank  of  that  branch  of  the  Po 
I  called  the  Po  dviWa  ^UtsU^.  '\>wi^ 
.  other  branch  ixtlVvex  so\3lV\v  \^  \Jcvm^v> 
,  di   Goto,  aud  \)vi\.\«icvitv  \\\^  \ko\wx  ^i*^ 


^k 


HO 0TB  11.  —  VENICE   To   RAVKMHA.  'tSctt'^ 


Sta.  Mariit  anil  the  sea, 
II  of  the  river  inclose  an 
tiola  iTjfriano,  frequently 
subject  to  the  dcstruative  inundationa 
of  both  brunches  of  the  Po.  On  the 
northern  shont  of  this  island,  ncatlj 
opposite  Caoandla  di  PA,  is  Taglia,  to 
vhieJi,  if  tbe  island  be  passable,  Ihv 
(raTellcr  should  cro»,  and  there  leave 
hii  boat ;  otherwise  he  must  asoendlhe 
J^tthern  bianch  of  the  Po,  and  make 

le  of  the  island  at  Sta.  Maria,  near 
B.toiTQ  of  Ariano  ^  in  rather  case  he 
J  land  at  Metola,  the  frontier  town 
"le  Papal  Slates.  The  difference 
me  nccupied  by  these  two  modes 
nsiderable :  from  Chioggia  to 
^lio  the  voyage  b;  canal,  dinct, 
S  hours  i  from  Taglio 
IS  the  island,  it  is  little 
t  Ihsn  one  hour;  whereas  the 
in  Chioggia  to  Mesola,  going 
J  by  the  Po,  requires  at  least  J  4 


situated  in  the  midst  of  the  unhealthy 
salt  manlies,  and  garrisoned  by  Aus- 
tria, under  tha  treaty  of  Vienna.    The 

traveller  appears  to  be  eonstantly  ap- 
proaching the  town  without  getting 
nearit.  These  tnarshescalled  the  "Val- 
leys of  Comacchio, "although  unhealthy 
and  desolate  from  humidity  and  fever, 
itUl  celebrated  fur  their  fisberio  8f 
of  Ariosto  and  Tasso,  who 


p  from  the 


here;   and 


^ttHa.  Thia  should 
i)pin;{-p1aee  on  (he 
'      '         tolerable  iun 


I  the  rotids.  may  be  hired  for  the 
'  ■    day'i  journey.      Mesola    has 
UioD  of  4,000  souls  :   It  appea 
'e  been  considered  important . 
ilier  town,  since  it  is  reeordi 
t  it  has  been  twice  purchased  of 
■House  of  Austria  by  the  Church— 
E.PIui  VI.,  for  a  million  of  seudi, 
VbyI.eoXII.,  inl8S2,fbr467/XXl 
^L     The  difficulty  and  expenses  o 
pitig  up  [he  embankments  of  thi 
ivers  in  this  part  of  Italy, 
dmirahly  constructed 
i   the    traveller    will 
M  observe  during  his  journey 
!  inhabi 


the  fish  which  have  eome 
sea,  in  order  to  prevent  tl 
"  Come  II  puce  coU.  dove  Imp 

Scmpre  all'  eattar  apeno,  Alt 


Ori.  Iw.  m.  tl.  3, 
From  Magnavacca  the  road  crosses 
the  southern  branch  of  the  Po,  called 
the  Po  di  Prima™,  the  Spinttictim  Ol- 
liaat  of  the  ancients,  passing  between 
the  town  of  Priraaro  on  the  right,  and 
its  small  port  on  the  left,  defended  bjr 
the  Torre  Cregoriana. 

The  ancient  name  of  the  Po  di  Pri- 
maro  recalls  the  celebrated  Greek  city 
of  Spina,  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  a  few  miles  from  the  Adriatic 
The  high  antiquity  of  Spina  has  been 
of  much 


of  Halici 


,  on  tbc  authority  of  Dionyui 
referr:        '■    ■"  " 

rived    f 


0  the 


'fom  Epirus,  long  before  the  Trojan 
var;  while  others,  who  dispute  its 
bundation  by  the  Pelasgi,  admit  that 
t  was  of  Greek  origin,  and  that  it  had 
.  icquired  much  celebrity  in  the  age  of 

Hacquisitionadearonelo  thePapall  Croisus.      Tbere    are   no  remains  by 
Brernment.  |  which  its  aacient   site  may  be  idea- 

^'Leaving  Mesola,  the  road  proceeds  tified  ;  but  itisgenerelly  supposed  that 
along  the  flat  sandy  tract  to  Pompom,  it  stood  near  the  village  of  Argenta,  on 
and  after  crossing  the  Volano  by  a  the  left  bank  of  the  Po  di  Piimaro. 
ferry,  traverses  the  eastern  line  af  the  Beyond  Primaro  the  Lamone  is 
/iaiift  ai'  ehmacciio,  to  Afcysoooceo.  crossed,and  we  soouenterthenorlhem 
West  or  Slagnavacea  is  the  forliBed  extremity  ot  the  Pinilo,  described  in 
■"■Fo  ot CemaccAio,   with  5,S00  aouU,^the  account  ot  aavefttia,Va  "tW  bio- 


J^igMtt  States]    route  11. — Venice  to  ravenna. 


81 


ceeding  Route.  After  a  drive  of  a  few 
miles  along  the  turf  through  this  ve- 
nerable forest,  we  fall  into  the  road 
near  the  tomb  of  Theodoric,  and  enter 
Ravenna  by  the  Porta  Serrata.  llie 
journey  from  Mesola  to  Ravenna  oc- 
cupies about  10  hours,  and  is  a  fair 
day's  work. 

Ravbnka,  described  in  the  next 
Route. 

[A  recent  traveller.  Dr.  Fraser,  who 
performed  the  journey  from  Ravenna 
to  Venice,  gives  the  following  ac- 
count of  his  progress : — "  This  route 
is  not  devoid  of  interest,  although  it 
is  seldom  followed.  On  leaving  Ra- 
▼enna,  the  road  passes  by  the  tomb  of 
Theodoric,  and  soon  after  enters  the 
Pineta.  The  deep  silence  of  the  forest 
is  unbroken  by  the  noise  of  the  car- 
riage, which  now  passes  over  the  green 
turf,  scarcely  marked,  and  in  some 
places  not  at  all,  by  any  track;  and 
the  traveller  soon  feels  that  without  the 
aid  of  a  guide,  or  the  instinct  of  tlie 
North  American,  his  path  would  soon 
be  lost  We  were  told  that  wild  boars 
•bound  in  the  recesses  of  the  forest ; 
but  we  saw  no  game,  nor  indeed  any 
other  living  thing.  After  threading  its 
mazes  for  two  hours,  we  observed  with 
regret  a  thinning  of  the  trees,  and  gra- 
dually entered  on  the  open  country. 
An  uninteresting  drive  brought  us  to 
Magnavacca,  where,  in  addition  to  our 
own  stock  of  provisions  (for  every  per- 
son taking  this  route  ought  to  carry  a 
supply),  we  found  the  means  of  making 
a  tolerable  breakfast.  We  changed 
horses  and  carriage  at  this  place,  by 
which  we  neither  improved  our  vc- 
nide,  nor  the  (juality  of  the  horses. 
We  were  now  given  to  understand  that 
no  one  would  take  a  good  carriage  by 
this  road,  so  that  we  had  been  deceived 
by  the  iimkecper  at  Liavenna,  who  had 
agreed  to  convey  us  to  Mesola  in  his 
snug  barouche ;  whereas  the  one  to 
which  we  were  now  transferred  was 
somewhat  ruder  in  construction  than  a 
tax-cart.  We  had,  however,  no  alter- 
native, and  were  given  to  understand 
tliat  nemt  dmy  we  should  obtain  a  better 
earrimge  at  Mesola,  which  we  reached 


'  at  sunset.  We  slept  there,  although 
,  our  original  intention  was  to  make 
I  Ariano  our  resting-place  for  the  first 
night ;  but  the  usual  road  was  cut  up 
by  the  late  floods,  and  that  which  we 
were  to  follow  so  increased  the  dis- 
tance, that  the  landlord  would  not  fur- 
nish us  with  horses  that  evening.  As 
he  had  every  thing  in  his  own  hands, 
we  submitted  with  as  good  grace  as 
possible.  Mesola  is  the  frontier  town 
of  the  Papal  States,  and  consists  of  a 
large  building,  the  residence  of  the  go- 
vernor, apparently  constructed  so  as 
to  be  turned  into  a  fort  if  necessary, 
and  a  few  straggling  houses,  all  lying 
below  the  level  of  the  river,  which  is 
here  magnificently  embanked.  Du- 
ring this  day's  journey  we  crossed  five 
streams  by  means  of  ferry-boats ;  but 
the  steepness  of  their  banks,  and  the 
bad  arrangements  of  the  boats  con- 
vinced us  that  no  English  carriage 
could  be  safely  transported  without 
improved  means.  On  one  occasion, 
indeed,  our  carriage,  from  its  impetus 
in  descending,  was  nearly  thrown  into 
the  river,  dragging  the  men  and  every 
thing  after  it.  If  this  accident  had 
happened,  we  should  have  had  our 
baggage  destroyed,  if  not  lost,  and 
should  have  been  compelled  to  pro- 
ceed for  some  distance  on  foot.  Wc 
started  from  Mesola  the  next  morning 
at  daybreak,  and  drove  along  the  south 
bank  of  the  Po  di  Goro,  or  Po  Piccolo, 
to  the  point  opposite  Vicolo,  where  wo 
found  numerous  boatmen,  and  soon 
made  an  arrangement  for  our  convey- 
ance to  Cliioggia.  We  were  now  drag- 
ged, as  in  a  canal  boat,  by  two  men,  up 
the  Po  to  Sta.  Maria  in  Ponto,  with- 
out landing  at  Ariano.  Before  ar 
riving  at  Sta.  Maria  we  left  the  boat 
in  order  to  avoid  the  tiresome  naviga 
tion  round  the  western  point  of  the 
island.  We  reached  Sta.  Maria  in  this 
way,  af^er  a  walk  of  a  mile,  while  the 
boat  did  not  arrive  for  three  hours. 
Sta.  Maria  is  the  Austrian  frontier 
station .  we  found  the  oflicers  ex- 
tremely c\v\\  auA  oV\\^\tv«»^,  «L\v\  ^^it^t 
subjected  to  fax  \ess»  \i\cowN«v\\<i\\tt^^^'^ 
we  had  mot  w\l\\  \u  "av«it\^  ^cU^  \.o^-v>a 


£  :> 


^  of  th. 

■  (ho    f 


AVENSA.  [Sect,  I, 

ROUTE  13. 


iind   ii 


s   of  sliingic 


Is  of  III 


fiw.  The  inlmbiUnts  were  unablt  t 
loave  their  bou«es  Tor  fifteen  day. 
during  the  great  flaod  of  Novembei 
1S39.  On  Ibe  arrivBl  of  our  boat  v 
proceeded  dd  our  voyage,  paKsin 
througli  numerous  canals,  and  seldoi 
countering  a  luck,  in   consn^upnc 


vel  c 

Wa  crossed  Ibe  branch  of  the  Po  culU 
Pfl  Maestri,  tlio  Adige,  and  tbo  Brei 
ta,  during  the  Ha; ',  but  the  only  towi 


in  the  evening,  and  our  anxietj 

,   reach   Venice    was  so  great  that 

~^niDiediatel;  hired  a  boat,  and  Ian 

■^Ihat  city  Bt  2  in  the  morning. 

gghl  to  have  slept  at  Chioggia,  as 

gl^ed  miieh  from  cold  in  paH 

le  logunes,  and  had  but  an  imper 

"w  « the  greot  wall,  which  is  so  i 


mr 

co16  M  Imola    . 

-  M  - 

to  Lugo        -     - 

-  2    - 

Lugo 

Co  Ravenna  -     - 

7J  posts. 

The 

first  two  stages 

Df  this  re 

ule. 

between  Bologna  and 

mola,  are 

de- 

(cribed 

in   Route   14-, 

where  an 

r  Imola  is   also 

given. 

ThB 

outef 

om  Imok  to  Ra 

ennaL<s 

ffhatlo 

ngerUtanthatlTD 

mFaehu 

but 

he  roads  are  excellent. 

and  the  c< 

ry  th 

ougli  which  it  p 

ter- 

esling 

_n  account  nf  it 

^Wgh'slL 

eof 

iting: 


mps,    canals,    e 
■  anything  we  1 


a  before,  that  we  were 

bed  away  pleasantly  under  the  awn- 
g  of  the  boat,  or  in  walking  along 
Hbanba  of  the  canals,  which  the  slow 
ir  boat  permitted ;  we 
■e  alruck  by  the  dmple  msnncrB  of 
■  peasantry,  and  stilt  more  by  the 
le  beauty  of  the  women ;  we 
ot  annoyed  by  beggars  j  we  en- 

a  diligence ;  and  at  the  close 
journey  we  almost  regretted 

Jftlie  kind."] 

'    IVavellers  will    perceive  from  this 
irahle  to  divide  the  journey 
■o  three  days,  sleeping  at  Mesolft  or 
n  the  first  night,  and  at  Clii- 
thc  second.   They  would  thus 
liix  early  oa  the  third  day. 


ing  Imola,  the  road  proceeds 
■long  tbelefthankof  the  Saniemaaii  far 
as  Mordano,  near  which  it  leovea  the 
legation  of  Bologna,  and  enters  Chat 
of  liarenna.     Beyond  Che  tine  of  se- 
paration, after  crossing  the  Santerno, 
it  turns  towards  Lugo.      Not  far  from 
this  bend  is  the  nailed  town  of  Masia 
£om^ri^,  generatty  supposed  to  have 
?n  so  called  from  the  Mantuan  and 
■CBcian  emigrants,  who  fled  from  the 
rsecutions  of  Frederick  Barbnrossa, 
i  settled  herein  )S32.     There  is  no 
ubt  that  Che  establishment  of  this 
mtyof 


1   distric 


orded  t 


FranccMO  d^Este,  ore  of  the  generals 
of  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  on  bis 
death-bed  at  Ferrara  in  1573,  directed 
that  the  Lombards  of  Massa  should 
carry  his  body  fiom  Ferrara  to  this 
town,  where,  in  accordance  with  his 
wishes,  it  was  buried.  The  present 
population  is  about  4,000.  Un  the 
left  bank  of  the  Santerno,  a  branch 
road  from  Ferrara  through  the  marshes 
of  Argents  falls  into  this  route. 

The  road  now  crosses  the  Santtino, 
H  short  distance  beyond  which  is 

B  Lvgo,  supposed  to  occupy  the  site 
of  Lucii:  Diaiui,  wtune  temple  was  in 
I  the  iie\gH>ovirtioo&.  'img.Q,  wsw  hkvis.- 


Pa^xti  SiaiesJ]        route  12.  —  ravenna.  83 

portant  provincial  town  of  9,300  souls, '  &mous  for  its  strong  castle.  It  has  a 
was  raised  to  municipal  rank  by  Ju-  cathedral  dedicated  to  St.  Michael  the 
lius  J  I.,  and  was  confirmed  in  its  pri-  I  Archangel,  and  a  circus  for  the  game 
▼ileges  by  Pius  VII.  It  was  sacked  i  of  pallone,  but  it  contains  little  to  in- 
by  the  French  in  1796,  and  contains  .  terest  the  stranger, 
nothing  to  detain  the  traveller,  unless  The  road  now  crosses  the  Lamone, 
indeed  he  happen  to  visit  it  at  the  and  proceeds  across  the  plain  to  Ra- 
period  of  its  fair,  which  commences   venna.      Near    Godo   the  high   road 


•September  1st,  and  lasts  till  the  19th 
of  the  month.  It  is  said  to  date  from 
the  time  of  Marcus  ^mylius,  procon- 


from  Faenza  falls  into  this  route. 

3   Ravenna. — (  /««,  La  Spada,  very 
good,  one  of  the  most  ancient  inns  of 


sul  of   Ravenna.      It  was  confirmed    Italy.    Passports  arc  demanded  on  en 


tering  the  city,  and  a  charge  is  made 
at  the  hotel  for  entering  the  names  of 
travellers  I    It  is  said  that  this  unwor- 


by  Pope  John  IV.,  in  640;  by  Cle- 
ment VIII.,  in  1598;  and  by  Pius 
VII.  During  its  continuance,  the 
porticoes  of  the  fine  piazza  are  con-  j  thy  tax  is  imposed  by  the  police,  but 
verted  into  shops.  In  the  vicinity  of'  it  ought  at  once  to  be  abolished.)  Ra- 
Lugo  are  two  small  towns,  each  of  venna,  the  capital  of  the  Western  £m- 
which  is  interesting  as  the  birthplace  pire,  the  seat  of  the  Gothic  and  Lon- 
of  personages  whose  names  occupy  a  gobardic  kings  and  the  metropolis  of 
distinguished  place  in  the  Italian  tern-  |  the  Grecian  exarchs,  is  one  of  those 
pic  of  fame.  The  first  of  these,  Co^/^- i  historical  cities  which  are  best  illus- 
nola,  lies  to  the  south  of  Lugo,  on  the  |  trated  by  their  own  monuments.  With- 
banks  of  the  Senio,  and  is  remarkable  i  in  its  walls  repose  the  remains  of  the 
as  the  birthplace  vof  Attendolo  Sforza, '  children  of  Theodosius,  and  amidst 
the  founder  of  that  illustrious  house '  the  tombs  of  exarchs  and  patriarchs 
which  subsequently  played  so  import-  :  rests  all  that  was  mortal  of  Dante.  A 
ant  a  part  in  Italian  history.  It  was  short  distance  beyond  the  gates  is  the 
in  this  village  that  he  threw  his  pick- 1  sepulchre  of  Theodoric,  king  of  the 
axe  into  the  branches  of  an  oak,  in '  Goths :  the  city  ramparts  still  retain 
order  that  it  might  decide  by  its  fall,  |  the  breaches  of  the  barbarians,  and  the 
or  by  remaining  fixed,  whether  he !  deserted  streets  are  filled  with  Chris- 
should  remain  a  tiller  of  the  ground,  i  tian  antiquities  which  have  known 
or  join  a  company  of  adventurers.  The  I  no  change  since  the  time  of  Justinian, 
other  town  is  Fusignano,  eastward  of'  As  the  traveller  wanders  through  the 
Lugo,  and  likewise  situated  on  the  |  streets,  once  traversed  by  the  pomp 
Senio,  memorable  as  the  birthplace  of  |  and  pageantry  of  the  exarchs,  their 
Angelo  Corelli  the  composer,  and  of  i  unbroken  solitude  recalls  the  feelings 
Vincenzo  Monti  the  poet.  The  castle '  with  which  he  may  have  rode  round 
of  Cunio,  so  celebrated  in  the  middle '  the  walls  of  Constantinople ;  but  Ra- 
nges as  one  of  the  strongholds  of  Ro-  venna  has  preserved  more  memorials 
magna,  was  in  the  immediate  neigh-  ^  of  her  imperial  masters,  and  possesses 
bourhood  of  Cotignola :  its  ruins  may  |  a  far  higher  interest  for  the  Christian 
yet  be  traced.  |  antiquary  than   even  that   celebrated 

A  short  distance  from  Lugo  the  road  '  seat  of  empire.  ■*<  Whoever  loves  early 
crosses  the  Senio,  and  passes  through  '  Christian  monuments,  whoever  desires 
BapnacataUa,  a  small  town  of  3,491  to  see  them  in  greater  peifection  than 
souls  originally  called  Tiberiaco  in  the  lapse  of  fourteen  centuries  could 
himour  of  Tiberius.  Several  Roman  ,  warrant  us  in  expecting,  whoever  de- 
inscriptions,  and  other  antiquities  of  |  sires  to  study  them  unaided  by  the 
the  time  of  the  Empire,  discovered  j  remains  of  heathen  antiquity,  should 
there  in  1605,  prove  its  existence  at  make  every  effort  to  ^\y<^tv^  ^o'ccv^  ^v^^ 
that  period  aa  a  Roman  city.  The  pre-  at  least  in  t\us  v\o\A<^  axv<bL  vKK^«t\«\  twj  • 
aent  town  u  walled,  and  was  formerly  ]  From  Home  \l  d\^w%  \wbav\^  vcv  ^\v6> 


Vb 


aOtfTB  13.  —  RJSVESNA. 


tSeet.  I. 


>t]iat  jour  meditc 


i  by  t1 


:e  of  pagan 
your  ru(^4rcheB  perplexed  by  the  ne- 
Misity  of  inquiring  what  was  built  and 
what  vras  borrowed  by  the  faitbflil. 
Rarmiia  has  only  one  antiquity,  and 
that  is  ChriMinn.  Seated  likejAonie 
in  the  midst  at  t,n  unbealtby,  desolate 
plain,  except  when  itn  unrivalled  pine- 
fcresti  cast  a  ibade  of  deeper  solitude 
and  melaiKiholy  ov^r  it;  quiet  and 
lontly,  without  tbe  sound  of  wbi-eli 
upon  its  grass-giowQ  pavemenl 


not  merely  li 
of 


>r  the  dec 


magnificence,  but  upon  its 
total  destruction  —  except  what  Re- 
ligion has  erected  for  heraelC  She  was 
not  in  lime  to  at^ly  her  saving  as  well 
ai  purifying  unction  to  the  bosilicm 
and  temples  of  preceding  ages;  or 
relber,  she  seemed  Ca  occupy  whatshe 
could  replace,  and  tberetbre,  in  the 
strenj^lh  of  iiDperinl  favour,  rai^d  new 
buildings  for  the  Christian  worship, 
Buch  a)  no  other  city  but  Rome  could 
boast  of— Dr.  Wiseman,  Dublin  Res. 
Tlie  history  of  Ravenna  embraces  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  history  not 
only  of  Italy  during  the  middle  ages, 
but  also  uf  theXastcm  and  Western 
Empires.  Without  entering  into  these 
details,  it  williie  absolutely  necessary 
for  the  appreciation  of  its  antiquities, 
to  give  a  rapid  skelcli  of  its  magnifi- 


increased  by  (he  construction  of  an 
ample  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Can- 
dianiui,  capable  of  affording  shelter  to 
SSO  sliipB,  and  which  superseded  the 
old  harbour  at  the  mouth  of  the  Uonco. 
He  connected  the  new  port  with  the 
To  I7  means  of  a  canal,  t 
causeway  to  it  Irani  llie  city  which  he 

bel!L*hed  with  magniticent  building.!. 
The  new  harbour  was  called  Forlui 
Clatsit,  a  name  still  retained  in  the  dis- 
tinctive title  of  the  noble  basilica  of 
Apollinsro ;  and  the  ii 


settlen 

bli&hment    of    the 

perpetuated  by  the 
a  Lorei        ■      " 


D  thei 


I    called 


idded  lo  the  natural  strength 
of  Ravenna  by  fortifying  its  walls  and 
maintaining  its  fame  as  a  naval  st 
tiou.      But  its  true  interest  does  n 
until    afier    the    classical 
the  decline  of  the  Ror 


31  of  I 


he  WesLem  Empire,  a.  n. 
rly  as  this  period,  the  de- 
j  Po  had  begun  to  aceu- 


The  I 


!clasi 


provi 


1    the 

Augustus  bad  gradually  tilled  1 
and  the  forest  of  pines  which  st 
plied  the  Roman  fleet  with  timb 
had  usurped  the  spot  where  that  fli 
had  before  anchored,  and  spread 
alone  the  shore,  now  becoming  mi 

fiom  the  city.   These 


ling  from 

Savio.  and  so  intersected  with  marshes 
unicatioti  was  kept  up  by 
bridges,  not  only  Ihrough- 

gity  icsalF.    The  sea,  which  is  now 

Ihired  up  to  its  walls.  Ravenna  be- 
~  it  early  a  Roman  colony,  and  judg- 
.  an  expression  in  Cicero,  was 
il  important  naval  station  under  Pom- 
'-J  the  Great.  Capsar  occupied  it 
'siion  of  Italy,  and 
[■ross  the  Eubicon. 
s  consequence  was 


aake   Ravel 


safety  was  secu 
and  morasses, 
shaUow  to  adtr 


X  the 


the  large  vessels  of 
tec  enemy,  ne  availed  himself  of 
these  changes  to  strengthen  the  city 
with  additional  fortifications,  and  so 
far   succeeded    that    its    impregnable 

of  the  northmen  under  Radagaldus 
and  Alarie.  Without  enleriilg  into 
details  of  llie  administration  of  Kn- 


Papal  States.']         boute  12. — ravenna. 


85 


Honoiiufl,  during  the  minority  of 
Valentinian,  it  may  be  sufficient  te 
itate  that  under  her  feeble  successors 
CTen  the  natural  advantages  of  the 
city  were  unable  to  offer  an  effectual 
resistance  to  the  wild  tribes  of  Odo- 
acer,  who  in  little  more  than  seventy 
years  after  the  arrival  of  Honorius, 
made  lumself  master  of  Ravenna,  and 
extinguished  the  Empire  of  the  West 
His  rule,  however,  had  lasted  but 
fifteen  years  when  Theodoric,  king 
of  the  East  Goths,  crossed  the  Alps 
with  a  powerful  army,  and  after 
several  gallant  struggles  overthrew 
Odoacer,  and  made  Ravenna  the  ca- 
pital of  the  Gothic  kingdom,  llieo- 
doric  was  succeeded  in  the  sovereignty 
of  Italy  by  two  of  his  descendants, 
and  they  in  turn  were  succeeded  by  a 
series  of  elective  kings,  from  the  last 
of  whom  Justinian  endeavoured  to 
reconquer  the  lost  provinces  by  the 
▼alour  and  military  genius  of  Beli- 
sarius.  The  campaign  of  that  great 
general,  and  his  siege  and  capture  of 
Ravenna,  are  well  known  to  every 
reader  of  Gibbon. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  dwell  upon  the 
circumstances  attending  the  recall  of 
Belisarius,  and  the  appointment  of 
Narses,  the  new  general  of  Justinian, 
who  drove  the  Goths  out  of  Italy, 
and  was  intrusted  with  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  Italian  kingdom  by  the 
title  of  Exarch  of  Ravenna.  The 
title  thus  conferred  upon  the  favourite 
lieutenant  of  the  emperor  was  ex- 
tended to  his  successors  during  the 
continuance  of  tlie  Greek  dominion ; 
the  functions  of  the  exarchs  corre- 
sponded in  some  measure  to  those 
of  the  ancient  pra>torian  prefects,  and 
the  imperial  delegates  who  filled  that 
office  acfiuired  a  place  in  the  chrono- 
logy of  piinces.  Their  administration 
comprised  the  entire  kingdom  of 
Italy,  their  jurisdiction  extended  over 
the  city  of  Home,  and  the  pope  or 
bishop  of  the  Christian  capital  was 
regarded  as  subject  to  their  authority, 
possessing  merely  a  temporal  l)aruny 
in  Rome  dependant  on  the  exarchate. 
'Jibe  territory  understood  to  be  com- 


prised in  the  Exarchate  included 
modern  Romagna,  the  districts  of  - 
Ferrara  and  Comacchio,  the  maritime 
Peiitapolis  or  the  line  of  towns  ex- 
tending from  Rimini  to  Ancona,  and 
a  second  or  inland  Fentapolis,  in- 
cluding several  towns  as  far  as  the 
range  of  the  Apennines.  The  ex- 
archate lasted  185  years,  but  its 
power  soon  began  to  decline  :  the 
Romans  erected  a  kind  of  republic 
under  their  bishop;  and  Astolphus, 
king  of  the  Lombards,  seeing  that 
Ravenna  would  be  an  easy  prey, 
drove  out  Eutichius,  the  last  exarch, 
made  himself  master  of  the  city,  and 
created  it  the  metropolis  of  the  Lon- 
gobardic  kingdom,  a.  d.  754.  The  at- 
tempt of  the  Lombards  to  seize  Rome 
also  as  a  dependency  of  the  exarchate, 
brought  to  the  aid  of  the  church  the 
powerful  army  of  the  Franks  under 
Pepin  and  Charlemagne,  by  whom 
the  Lombards  were  expelled,  and 
Ravenna  with  the  exarchate  given  to 
the  Holy  See  as  a  temporal  pos- 
session ;  "  and  the  world  beheld  for 
the  first  time  a  christian  bishop  in- 
vested with  the  prerogatives  of  a 
temporal  prince,  the  choice  of  magis- 
trates, the  exercise  of  justice,  the  im- 
position of  taxes,  and  the  wealth  of 
the  palace  of  Ravenna.**  During  all 
these  changes  the  city  long  preserved 
its  town  council  and  its  municipal 
privileges  :  its  elective  magistracy 
may  be  traced  down  to  a.  d.  625,  and 
it  was  vested  exclusively  in  prefects 
appointed  by  the  sovereign. 

This  rapid  sketch  of  Ravenna  during 
the  high  and  palmy  days  of  its  pros- 
perity as  the  seat  of  sovereignty,  will 
hardly  be  complete  without  tracing 
its  history  through  its  subsequent  de- 
cline; since  many  memorials  of  the 
events  which  occurred  during  this 
period  will  be  found  hereafter  in  the 
particular  description  of  the  city. 
After  the  restoration  of  the  exarchate 
to  Rome  by  the  Carlovingian  princes, 
the  fortunes  of  Ravenna  began  rapidly 
to  decline ;  its  archbishops  frec^ucntly 
seized  t\\e  govwwmvitvV,  «Ltv\\\.  \i«& "Ow* 
scene  of  Tepcalcd  coTciYcv*i\Aow'&  wsiw^^ 


!   12.  —  HAVErWA. 


Blrtmgly  tvnded  to  nt'istoeracy ;  tin 
■■  Monutneiili  Earennntis,"  s  moal 
Talosble  collection  cf  fiUtutei  illustia- 
tive  of  the  iDuiDerii  ond  HKiety  of  thi 
(inie,  show  tbat  its  general  council 
iras  oomposed  of  only  S50,  and  iti 
Bpccial  council  of  only  70  persons. 
in  the  cantata  of  tlie  Guelphi  and 
Ghibelinca,  Pictro  Travcrsori,  an  all) 
of  Ibe  farmer  faction,  declared  himscL 
Duke  of  Ravenna  (121S),  without 
changing  (he  ciiil  inatitutions  of  the 
uity.  His  son  and  mcccraor  quarrelled 
with  the  emperor  Frederick  H.,  who 
reduced    RaTenun  to  obedience,  and 

The  city  was  taken  shortly  alter  hy 
Cardinal  L'baldini,  legate  of  Jn- 
n  Jcent  IV.,  and  reduced  again  to  Ihc 
authority  of  the  Romnn  pandlTs,  who 
governed  It  by  vicars.  In  1275,  it 
was  subject  to  the  bmily  of  Polenta, 
whose  conneotion  with  it 
inorated  hy  Danle  under 
of  an  eagle  which  figured  in  their 
coat  of  arms: 

si,  ,(,er.iBri«.preco..uo(«m>^^^ 

After  Eome  subsequent  changes,  1 

mults,  arising  from  the  atnbitiun 
cupidity  of  its  powerful  citizens. 


RaTcnna 

flourished  under  the  republic ;  its 
public  buildings  were  restored,  its 
fortress  was  strengthened,  and  the  laws 
were  adminiitered  with  justice  and 
wisdom.  Aftet  retaining  it  for  GS 
years,  the  Venetians  finally  ceded  it  to 
the  church  under  JuUuis  U.  in  15D9; 
and  it  then  became  the  capital  of 
Romagna,  and  was  governed  by  the 
papnl  legates.  In  less  than  three 
years  after  this  etent,  the  general 
Italian  war  which  followed  the  league 
oF  Camhray  brought  into  Italy  the 
-rmy  of  Louis  XII.  under  Gastun  de  ; 
-.»,     vho    began    Jiis    eampnign    of, 


[Sect.  J. 

eenth  1  Romagna  hy  the  siega  of  Havcnna. 


isult,  in 


tempt  t 
lich  ho  was  b 


thy 


of  the  papal  a 


Lbitants,  the  arrival 
A  Spanish  troops  in- 
duced htm  to  give  battle,  on  iLaster 
Sunday.  April  11.  151B.  Italy  had 
never  seen  so  bloody  a  battle;  little 
sliort  of  SOjOOO  men  are  said  to  have 
lain  dead  upon  the  field,  when  the 
Spanish  infantry,  yet  unbroken,  slowly 

seeing  them  escape,  rushed  upon  the 
foroiidahle  host  in  .the  vain  hope  of 
throwing  them  into  disorder,  and 
perished  in  the  attempt  about  tliteo 
miles  from  the  walls  of  Ravenna. 
ITie  French  won  Ihc  victory,  but  it 
was  dearly  purchased  hy  the  loss  of 
thei.    ■■     ■ 


At    the 

llavenna 


1  of  1 


'prived  of  it 
tne  capital  ot  Romagna,  which  vaa 
given  to  Forll;  but  it  was  restored 
by  Au-^ttia  in  1799,  only  to  be  again 
transferred  by  the  French  in  the 
following  year.  On  the  fall  of  the 
Italian  kingdom,  Ravenna  was  again 
made  the  thief  city  of  the  province. 
but  itj  ancient  glory  was  gone  for 
ever,  and  only  three  towns  and  a  few 
castles  were  left  subject  to  its  author- 
ity. Thus  have  dwindled  sway  the 
pomp,  power,  and  magnificence  of  a 
eily,  the  residence  of  emperors  and 
princes,  and  the  capital  of  three  fcing- 

naTenna,at  the  present  time,  is  the 
cliicf  city  of  a  Legation,  comprehend- 
ing by  the  returns  of  183S  a  popuhit  ion 
of  2-i5fiQS  inhabitants,  and  a  surface 
of  95  square  leagues  j  the  city  Is  inha- 
bited by  10,500  persons,  and  ks  im- 
mediate territory,  irrigated  by  seven 


0  agri 


:ulluris 


of  H  cardinal  archbishop,  who  has  the 
title  of  metropolitan,  and  to  whom  alt 
the  bisliops  of  Romagna  are  suSragaoiL 
Itt  bishopric,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
in  the  christian  world,  was (hunded  t.n. 
4i,  by  S.  Apollinaris.  a  disciple  of 
Pcwt  l  and  it  obtained  the  dignity  of 
an  atch"l-e'Ji\M:o\iai  ace  as  >:Bi\-j  -is,  "Wa, 


PofoA  iS'Azfef.]     ROUTE  12.  —  R A  VfiMKA. —  Cathedral. 


87 


under  Pope  Siztus  II T.  The  circuit 
of  the  city  is  ahout  three  miles. 
Besides  its  churches  and  other  objects 
of  antiquarian  interest,  it  contains  a 
college,  a  museum,  public  schools,  and 
an  academy  of  the  fine  arts.  Its  port, 
communicating  with  the  Adriatic  by 
a  canal,  is  still  considered  one  of  the 


example  of  astronomical  knowledge  in 
the  early  times  of  Christianity.  It  was 
calculated  for  95  years,  beginning  with 
5S2,  and  ending  in  Q2Q.  Here  is  also 
a  fine  picture  by  Guidoy  the  Angel  of- 
fering Bread  and  Wine  to  Elijah.  The 
Sacristy  contains  the  pastoral  chair  of 
St,  Maximian,  formed  entirely  of  ivory. 


great  outlets  of  Komagna,  and  carries  {  with  the  monogram  in  front  of  "  Max- 
on  an  extensive  commerce  with  the  |  imianus  Episcopus."     The  bas-reliefs 


Lombardo- Venetian  kingdom 

The  Cathedral,  once  a  remarkable 
example  of  the  ancient  Basilica,  has 
lost  all  traces  of  its  original  character. 
It  was  built  by  S.  Orso,  archbishop  of 
the  see,  in  the  fourth  century,  and 
called  from  him  **  Basilica  Orsiana." 
It  was  rebuilt  in  the  last  century,  and 
completely  spoilt  ;  the  cylindrical 
campanile,  whose  form  recals  the  mi- 
narets of  Constantinople,  alone  re- 
mains of  the  original  building.  The 
chief  interest  of  the  present  church  is 
the  celebrated  painting  by  Guido  in 
the  chapel  of  tlic  SS.  Sacramento  re- 
presenting the  fall  of  the  manna,  and 
the  lunette  above  representing  the 
meeting  of  Melchizedek  and  Abra- 
ham; these  are  classed  by  Lanzi 
among  Guidons  best  works.  Among 
the  other  pictures  which  deserve  no- 
tice, are  the  grand  Banquet  of  Ahasu- 
erus  by  Carlo  Bonone,  well  known  by 
the  minute  description  of  Lanzi,  and 
the  modern  painting  by  Camuccini  of 
the  Coasecration  of  the  Church  by  St. 
Orso.  Tlie  high  altar  contains  an  urn 
of  Greek  marble,  in  which  are  depo- 
sited the  remains  of  nine  early  bishops 
of  the  see.  Tlic  silver  crucifix  is  co- 
vered with  sculptures  of  the  sixth  cen- 
tury'. The  chapel  of  the  Madonna  del 
Sudore  contains  a  large  marble  urn 
covered  with  bas-reliefs,  in  which,  as 
related  by  the  inscription,  are  the  ashes 
of  St.  Uarbatian,  confessor  of  Galla 
Placidia.  Behind  the  choir  are  two 
slabs  of  Grecian  marble,  with  sym- 
bolical representations  of  animals, 
which  formed  part  of  the  ancient  pul- 


below  the  monogram  represent  the 
Saviour  in  the  character  of  a  shepherd 
and  priest  in  the  midst  of  the  four 
evangelists  :  on  the  two  exterior  sides 
is  the  history  of  Joseph,  and  those 
which  remain  on  the  back  represent 
various  events  in  the  life  of  the  Sa- 
viour. It  is  precious  as  a  specimen 
of  art  in  the  sixth  century,  but  it  has 
evidently  suffered  from  injudicious 
cleaning.  Behind  the  grand  door  of 
the  cathedral  are  still  preserved  some 
fragments  of  its  celebrated  Door  of 
vine  wood,  which  has  been  superseded 
by  one  of  modem  construction.  The 
original  planks  are  said  to  have  been 
13  feet  long  and  nearly  \\  wide — a 
proof  that  the  ancients  were  correct  in 
stating  that  the  vine  attains  a  great 
size,  and  that  we  may  rely  on  the  as- 
sertion that  the  statue  of  Diana  of 
Ephesus  was  made  of  the  vine  wood 
of  Cyprus.  It  is  probable  that  the 
wood  of  the  Ravenna  doors  was  im- 
ported from  Constantinople. 

The  ancient  Baptistery,  called  also 
**  S.  Giovanni  in  Fonte,"  now  separated 
from  the  cathedral  by  a  street,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  likewise  founded 
by  S.  Orso  :  it  was  repaired  in  451  by 
the  archbishop  Neo,  and  dedicated  to 
St.  John  the  Baptist.  It  is,  like  most 
baptisteries  of  the  early  christians,  an 
octagonal  building ;  the  interior  has 
two  circles,  each  of  eight  arcades,  the 
lower  resting  on  eight  columns  with 
different  capitals,  placed  in  each  angle 
of  the  building;  the  upper  are  twenty- 
four  in  number,  dissimilar  in  form  as 
well  as  in   the   capitals.     The  lower 


pit,  the  work  of  the  sixth  century.  |  columns  are  considerably  sunk,  and 
In  the  vestibule  of  the  sacristy  is  a  I  both  these  and  tl\^  vi^^^x  ^^xv^-^  vc^ 
PoMcMal  calendar  on    marble,    much  1  supposed  to  Vittve  \)<^otv^<^  \q  vsv&.^ 
pnMed  by  Battquaries  as  a  remarkable  I  ancient  tempVe.  T\\e  tM^koWva  ^.^arow 


K. 


well-preserved  mosaicfi  of  the  fifth  i 
ir;,  representing  in  the  centre ' 
Christ  bsptiied  in  Ihe  Jonlan,  and  in 
the  cliTumfiirence  Ihc  twelve  apostles, ' 
witii  oilier  oroatnenU.  Tbe  grand 
YoH,  which  was  formerly  used  fijr  bap-  | 
tiim  by  iinntersion,  is  composed  of| 
Gruek  Dmrble  and  porphyry.  There 
are  tvo  chapela  in  the  building;  that 
on  the  right  contains  n  sculptured 
marble  of  the  siith  eeoturj',  which 
belonged  to  tbe  ciboriMm  of  the  old 
cathedral ;  that  on  the  left  has  a 
beautiful  urn  of  Parian  marble  cu- 
Tered  with  syrubols  supposed  to  relate 
to  the  ancient  nuptial  puriGcaiionN  i 
it  1TB3  found  in  tbe  temple  of  Jupiter 
at  Cssarea.  The  ancient  metal  cross 
on  the  summit  of  the  baptistery  merits 
uotice  on  account  of  its  antiquity:  it 
bears  an  inscription  recording  that  it 
was  erected  in  68S  by  Arehhishop 
Theodorus. 

Tbe  inagniGcent  Basilica  of  San 
Vilale,  in  tbe  pure  Bytantioe  style, 
exhibits  tbe  oclagonul  form  with  all 
the  BCCeasorita  of  Eastern  splendour. 
As  one  of  the  earliest  Christian  tem- 
ples, It  is  of  the  highest  loterest  in  tbe 
history  of  art.  It  was  built  in  Ihe 
reiga  of  Justinian  by  S.  Ecelesius,  the 
aichbvihop  of  tite  see,  oa  the  spot 
where  St.  Vitalis  suffered  martyrdom, 
and  was  consecrated  by  St.  Makimian 
in  54T.  It  was  an  imitation  of  Sta. 
Suphia  at  Constantinople,  and  was 
adopted  by  Charlemagne  as  the  modei 
ofhlschurchat  Aii-lo-Chapelle.  The 
original  pavement  is  considerably  be- 
low the  present  floor,  and  is  now  co- 
irered  with  water.  The  arohiiecture 
of  the  interior  eiliibits  eight  arches 
resting   on   as   many   piers,    between 

stories,  each  divided  into  three  small 
arches  by  tvo  columns  between  Ihe 
principal  piers.  The  spaces  between 
the  lower  columns  open  into  tbe  side 
aisles,  and  those  between  the  upper 
into  a  gallery.  Above,  the  building 
becomes  cireular.  The  fourteen  co- 
Jaraiu  of  Ihe  upper  story  hare  Gothic 
capJinIs,  same  oF  which  liEar  an  anchor, 
'"/■•pasei/ lo  inilicate  that  Ihcy  bclon^L-A 


-San  Vitale.      ,  [Sect.  J. 

to  a  temple  of  Neptune.  Tbe  fourteen 
columns  of  the  lower  story  hate  also 
Gothic  capitals :  and  on  the  imposts 
of  the  arches  are  twenty-eight  mono- 


The  colossal  dome  is  painted  with  ft 
coea  representing  the  folhers  of  I 
Old  and  New  Testami    "       ■■ 


^ 


decor 


hangini 


Lsof  ri 


from  the  roof;  all  : 
te,  and  at  variance  with  the 
architectural  character  of  the  building. 
The  dome  is  constructed  of  earthen 
pots,  and  Is  perhaps  tbe  most  perfect 
apec'unen  known  of  this  kind  of  work. 
They  are  small  twisted  vesaels,  having 
the  point  of  one  inserted  in  tbe  mouth 
of  the  other  in  a  continued  spiral,  and 
placed  horizontally.  The  spandrilsare 
partially  filled  with  others  of  larger 
siie,  twisted  only  at  tbe  point,  and 
arranged  vertically.  The  upper  walls 
and  vault  of  tbe  choir  are  covered,  with 
mosaics  of  tbe  time  of  Justinian,  as 
beautiful  and  as  fresh  as  on  the  day 
when  Ihej  were  first  finished;  invalo- 
able  as  specimens  of  art  during  the 
middle  ages,  ni 


Just! 


'ITiei 


in  his 


rounded  by  courtiers  and  soldiers,  and 
accompanied  by  St.  Maiimian  and 
two  priests.  On  the  left  the  Empress 
Tlieodora  with  a  simihir  vase,  attended 
by  the  ladies  of  her  court.  In  the 
vault  above  is  the  Saviour  throned  on 
the  globe  between  the  archangels  i  on 
the  right  hand  is  S.  Vitalis  receiving 
the  crown  of  martyrdom  ;  and  on  the 
left  S,  Eutichiui  in  the  act  of  offering 
3  model  of  the  church.  The  vault  is 
decorated  with  arabesques,  urns,  and 
other  ornamcnUl  devices.  The  other 
represent    tbe    Saviour  with 


the 


of   S.  Vital! 
Offering  of  Miel.and  of  Melehiiwde 
Moses   wkti   ttie    B'Qce^    »t  Wait 


the 


Pigoai  Siaies,'}    route  12.  —  ravenna. — Churches. 


89 


MoMB  on  Mount  Horeb ;  Moses  in 
the  act  of  taking  off  his  sandals  at  the 
command  of  the  Almighty,  represented 
by  a  hand  in  the  heavens ;  the  Sacrifice 
of  Isaac ;  the  three  Angels  foretelling 
the  birth  of  a  child  to  Abraham,  while 
Sarah  stands  in  the  doorway  ridiculing 
the  prediction ;  Moses  on  Mount  Si- 
nai ;  the  prophets  Isaiah  and  Jeremiah ; 
and  the  four  Evangelists  with  their 
emblems.  The  preservation  of  these 
extraordinary  mosaics,  still  retaining 
the  freshness  of  their  colours  amidst  all 
the  revolutions  of  Ravenna,  is  truly 
wonderful ;  they  have  been  the  admi- 
ration of  every  writer,  and  they  can- 
not fail  to  afford  the  highest  interest 
not  merely  to  the  christian  antiquary, 
but  to  all  travellers  of  taste.  "  They 
are  so  excellently  preserved,  that  the 
figures,  like  all  others  of  this  kind,  at 
Ravenna,  seem  really  living ;  in  this 
eboir  a  person  might  fancy  himself  at 
Constantinople  :  the  features  of  The- 
odora, of  that  comedian  who  passed 
firom  a  theatrical  throne  to  the  throne 
of  the  world,  have  still  a  wanton  air 
that  recalls  her  long  debaucheries. 
When  I  contemplated  the  traces  of 
Constantinople  which  exist  at  Ravenna, 
it  seemed  to  me  that  this  curious  town 
was  more  Constantinople  than  Con- 
stantinople itself,  the  aspect  of  which 
must  have  been  materially  changed 
by  the  barbarous  fanaticism  of  the 
Ottomans.  A  citizen  of  Byzantium, 
my  fancy  pictured  the  concourse  of 
her  literati,  legists,  theologians,  monks, 
disputants,  a  decrepit  nation,  and  the 
splendour  of  the  edifice  did  not  con- 
ceal the  weakness  of  the  empire."  — 
Valertf.  llie  splendid  marble  columns 
will  not  escape  the  notice  of  the 
stranger ;  many  of  them  are  of  Greek 
marble,  and  others  are  considered 
unique.  On  the  imposts  of  the  arches 
of  the  right  columns  of  this  choir  arc 
two  monograms  of  Julianust  written 
on  one  of  them  in  the  reverse.  Near 
the  high  altar,  on  the  right,  are  the 
celebrated  bas-reliefs,  in  Greek  marble, 
called  the  "  Throne  of  Neptune,"  com- 
pared for  their  execution  and  design 
to  the  work»  of  Phidias  and  Praxiteles. 


'  In  them  are  seen  the. throne  of  the  god, 
with  a  sea-monster  extended  in  front 
of  it ;  a  winged  genius  holds  a  trident 
on  the  right,  and  on  the  left  two  other 
genii  ard  seen  bearing  a  large  shell. 
The  ornaments  of  these  sculptures  are 
pilasters  of  the  Corinthian  order,  a 
cornice  with  tridents,  dolphins,  shells, 
and  two  sea-horses.  It  is  recorded  by 
M.  Valery  that  these  beautiful  sculp- 
tures were  mutilated  **  by  a  too  scru- 
pulous priest,  who  narrowly  escaped 
under  the  French  administration  being 
punished  for  his  strange  crime."  The 
Chapel  of  the  SS.  Stteramento  contains 
a  gilded  ciborium  attributed  to  Michael 
Angelo,  and  a  picture  of  St.  Benedict 
by  Francesco  Gessi,  a  pupil  of  Guido. 
The  Assumption  of  St.  Gertrude  is  by 
Andrea  Barbiani.  In  the  vestibule  oj 
the  Sacristy  is  a  superb  bas-relief  of 
Greek  marble,  supposed  to  be  of  the 
time  of  Claudius,  representing  the 
**  Apotheosis  of  Augustus."  It  is 
divided  into  two  portions :  in  the  first 
is  the  goddess  Rome,  with  Claudius 
and  Julius  Caesar  bearing  a  star  on  the 
forehead  as  an  emblem  of  divinity. 
Livia  is  represented  under  the  figure 
of  Juno,  and  Augustus  under  that  of 
Jupiter.  The  second  represents  a 
sacrifice.  This  precious  sculpture  is 
supposed  to  have  been  one  of  the  de- 
corations of  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Augustus.  The  pictures  in  the  Sa- 
cristy are  the  Virgin  and  Child 
throned,  with  St.  Sebastian  and  other 
saints  mentioned  by  Lanzi  among  the 
best  works  of  Luca  Longhi,  a  native 
artist ;  the  Sta.  Agata  is  by  his 
daughter  Barbara,  and  the  Annuncia- 
tion by  his  son  Francesco  Longhi  ;  the 
Martyrdom  of  S.  Erasmus  is  by  an- 
other native  painter,  Giambattista 
Barbiani ;  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  James 
and  St  Philip  is  by  Camillo  Procaccini, 
'Vhe  Tomb  of  the  Exarch  Isaac,  "  the 
great  ornament  of  Armenia,"  remains 
to  be  noticed.  It  was  erected  to  his 
memory  by  his  wife  Susanna,  and 
bears  a  Greek  inscription  recording 
the  glory  he  acc^uvi^^  vr.  \W  'i^sX.  wA 
in  the  west,  atidcova^w:\w\»j\\tx  V\^«^- 
hood  to  tVvat  ol  \\\*  Xwtv\<i  ^oN<i.    '^£>!n» 


^Rl)                  ROUTE  jy.— hAvenna.— (,'AwtrAes.             L^^ect.  i.  ^ 

^P  urn  contuining  bis  ailics  is  of  Creek 

Hiid  St.  Jerome.     Tlic  other  paintings 

in  this  church  do  nut  merit  any  parli- 

tion   of    the  Mngi,    the    Raising    of 

culat  attention:  but  the  ancient quad- 

Laisrus,    mid    Daniel    in   the   I-iona" 

Den.     Itaao  wta  Iha  eighth  einrth  of 

Ravenna,  and  died   in    ihe  eily,  ac- 

and  green  mosaics,  is  remarkable  for 

wrfingloMuratori,  A.I..&I4. 

its  two  bells  cast  by  Robert  of  Saiony 

k .  The  BaiUiea  of  S.  CiovatiHi  Ecn- 

MStta  was  founded   in   425   by  the 

SmpresB  GaUa  Placidia,  in  fiilfilmeiit 

built  by  Galla  Placidla  for  her  con. 

if  ■  TOW  mitde  in  a  tempest  during  her 

fessor  SL  Barbatian  in  438,  was  con- 

secrnted    by   St  Peter   Chrysoiogua, 

■Doa-irith  her  children.    Like  the  ca- 

but  it  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in 

Mdnlitbu  losttnucbofitaancient 

1683.      On  the  right  of  tfie  entrance 

are  three  sepulihral   urns  or  sarco- 

1 mouicB   bate   disappeared.      The 

phagi,  the  largest  of  which  contains 

airoh    tradition    relates,    that    not 

tbe  ashes  of  Pietro  TiavcrB.nri,  already 

u»ing  with  what  retic  to  enrich  the 

meillioned  as  lord  of  Ravenoa,  who 

Kiioli,  tbe  emproBj  was  praying  on 

died  in  1335.      The  marble  and  other 

«  Hubject  when   St.  John  appeared 

columns   of  tbe    interior   arc  chiefly 

D  bei  in  a  vision  ;  she  threw  herself 

bis  feet  for  the  purpose  of  emhraclng 

some  of  them,  however,  were  found  in 

lem,  but  tbe  evangelist  disappearcJ, 

tSiing  one  of  his  sandals  as  a  relic. 

ihe  supposed  site  of  the  imperial  palace 

in  which  Galla  Placidia  resided.     The 

Her  over  the  transom  of  iu  pointed 

church    contains    two    paintings    hy 

Mmy,  the  work    prohably  of  the 

FraneiKO  Loaghi,  one  representing  the 

lanlftb  century.      Tbe  bas-relief  is  in 

Virgin  ftnil    Child  with    St.  Clement 

BieA  marble ;  the  lower  part  shows 

and  St.  Jerome  1  the  other  the  Virgin 

S,  John  inoensing  tlie  alur,  with  the 

and  Cliild  with  St.  Matthew  and  St. 

mprcsB  embracing  his  feet ;    in  the 

pper  part  she  appears  offering  Ihe 

Tbe  ancient  Ckvreh  nf  Scm  nuon 

contains  a  painting  of  Si,  Joseph  and 

the  infant  Saviour,  with  8.  Victor  and 

6.  Eustaobius  by  FUippo  FOiquiJi  of 

petially  in  the  small  niches,  is  richly 

Forll,  mentioned  with  praise  by  Lanti. 

imlplured  with  figures  of  saints,  and 

The  Chv.Tth  of  San  Daniiico.  a  re- 

storation  of  an  ancient  basilica  Tounded 

rahlteeture  of  the  period.      The  in- 

by  the   exarchs,    contains   some   fine 

irtoroflheehurcb,  consisting  of  tliree 

works  by  Nieold  Ro«di-elh,or  Rayenr-o, 

a  pupil  of  Bellini.      The  Virgin  and 

■lumns,  contains  the  high  altar,  he- 

Child  with  a.  Jerome,  S,  Domenico, 

mth  which  repose  the  remains  of  88. 

S.  Joseph,  and  S.    Francis  of  Assisi, 

Urtyrs;  the  ancient  altar  of  the  con- 

the   S,    Domenico   and    St.   Peter  in 

AHiaiial,  constructed  of  Creek  marble. 

the  choir,  and  tbe  Virgin  and  Child, 

i^fil^  century;  and  some  fragments 

are  by  this  master.      In  the  chapel  of 

the    Crucifii    is   an   ancient    wooden 

Ud  the  vow  of  Galla  Placldia.     'Hie 

crucifix   curiously  covered  with    fine 

Cpult  of  the  second  chapel  is  painted 

linen    in    imiMIion   of    human    skin. 

^    '*r  l^^ttB,  represeotiag  Ihe  four  Evan- 

which  is  said  to  have  sweated  blood 

^/ia   with    their  symbols,    and    St 

during  tUe  batfle  oE  Ravenna  under 

Gregory,  St.  Atabrose,    St.  Augustin 

Gastoii  de  Toil.     T\ia  second  tlia^A 

i 

P€^p«d  Siaiie9r\     boute  12. — ravenma.— CAt^rc^e^. 


91 


on  the  left  contains  the  Fifteen  Myste- 
lies  <^  the  Rosary,  by  Lwm,  Longhif 
and  the  third  chapel  on  the  right  has  a 
fine  picture  by  the  same  artist  repre- 
senting the  Invention  of  the  Cross. 

The  Church  of  S,  ApoUinare  Nuovo, 
built  by  Theodoric  in  the  beginning  of 
the  sixth  century  as  the  cathedral  of 
his  Arian  bi^ops,  was  consecrated  for 
Catholic  worship  by  S.  Agnello  arch- 
bishop, at  the  close  of  the  Gothic  king- 
dom, under  the  name  of  S,  Martina. 
It  was  also  called  Chiesa  di  Cido  Aureoj 
on  account  of  its  magnificent  decora- 
tions. It  assumed  its  present  name  in 
the  ninth  century,  ftom  the  belief  that 
the  archbishops  had  buried  the  body  of 
S.  Apollinaris  within  its  walls,  in  order 
to  secure  it  from  the  attacks  of  the 
Saracens.  The  twenty-four  columns 
of  Greek  marble  with  Gothic  capitals 
diTiding  the  nave  from  the  aisles  were 
brought  ftom  Constantinople.  The 
walls  of  the  nave  are  covered  with 
niperb  mosaics,  executed  under  the 
archbishop  Agnello  in  the  sixth  cen- 
tury. On  the  left  is  represented  the 
city  of  Classc,  with  the  sea  and  ships; 
in  the  foreground  twenty-two  virgins, 
each  holding  in  her  hand  a  crown^  and 
accompanied  by  the  magi,  in  the  act  of 
presenting  their  offerings  to  the  Virgin 
and  Child  sitting  on  a  throne  between 
angels.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
nave,  the  mosaic  presents  us  with  a 
picture  of  Ilavenna  at  that  period,  in 
which  we  distinguish  the  Basilica  of 
S.  Vitale,  and  the  palace  of  Theodoric 
bearing  the  word  Pcdatium  on  the  fa- 
9ade  :  twenty-five  saints  holding 
crowns  and  receiving  the  benediction 
of  the  Saviour  sitting  on  a  throne  be- 
tween four  angels.  The  rest  of  these 
walls  as  high  as  the  gilded  roof  are 
covere<i  with  mosaics  representing  the 
fathers  of  the  Old  and  New  Testaments, 
and  various  miracles  of  tht  Saviour. 
It  is  said  that  another  mosaic,  repre- 
senting the  emperor  Justinian,  exists  in 
tolerable  preservation  behind  the  organ. 
In  the  nave  is  the  ancient  pulpit  of 
Greek  marble  covered  with  Gothic  or- 
nmmenta,  supjtorted  by  a  mass  of  grey 
granite.    The  altars  of  this  church  are 


rich  in  rare  marbles  and  verde  antique. 
;  In  the  last  lateral  chapel  is  preserved 
the  ancient  marble  chair  of  the  Bene- 
dictine abbots,  to  whom  the  church 
formerly  belonged  :  it  is  supposed  to 
be  the  work  of  the  tenth  century. 

The  Church  of  S.  Francesco^  sup- 
posed to  have  been  erected  in  the 
middle  of  the  fifth  century  by  St.  Peter 
Chrysologus  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of 
Neptune,  has  suffered  from  modern 
restorations.  It  has  a  nave  and  two 
aisles  divided  by  twenty-two  columns 
of  Greek  marble.  In  the  right  aisle  is 
the  iirn  containing  the  remains  of  S. 
Liberius,  archbishop  of  the  see,  a  fine 
work  in  Greek  marble,  referred  to  the 
fourth  or  fifth  century.  The  chapel  of 
the  Crucifix  contains  two  beautiful 
columns  also  of  Greek  marble,  deco- 
rated with  capitals  sculptured  by  Pietro 
Lombardo,  by  whom  likewise  are  the 
rich  arabesques  of  the  frieze  and  pilas- 
ters. In  the  left  aisle  is  the  tomb  of 
Luffo  Numai,  of  Forll,  secretary  of 
Pino  OrdelaflS,  lord  of  that  city,  the 
work  of  Tommaso  Flamherti.  On  the 
right  wall  of  the  entrance  door  is  a 
sepulchral  tablet  with  the  figure  in  bas- 
relief  of  Ostasio  da  Polenta,  lord  of  Ra- 
venna, clothed  in  the  robes  of  a  Fran- 
ciscan monk,  and  bearing  the  follow- 
ing inscription  in  Lombard  characters: 
"  Hie  jacet  magnificus  Dominus  Hos- 
tasius  de  Polenta  qui  ante  diem  felix 
obiens  occubuit  mccclxxxvi  die  xiv 
mcnsis  Martii,  cujus  anima  requiescat 
in  pace. "  The  Polenta  family,  so  cele- 
brated for  their  hospitality  to  Dante 
and  for  the  fate  of  Francesca  da  Ri- 
mini, are  all  buried  in  this  church. 
On  the  left  wall  of  the  doorway  is  a 
similar  sepulchral  stone,  on  which  is 
sculptured  the  figure  of  Enrico  Alfieri, 
general  of  the  Franciscan  order,  who 
died  at  the  age  of  92,  in  140.5,  as  re- 
corded by  the  inscription.  He  was  one 
of  the  Asti  family,  and  was  therefore 
an  ancestor  of  the  illustrious  tragic 
poet  who  has  given  immortality  to  the 
name.  We  may  here  mention  the 
monument  caWed  Braccio-foTtc,  a>\\<- 
side  this  church,  TcpxescwVw^  «l  ^^i^^ 
warrior,  whose  name  and  \v\«Xo\>j  \\«n^ 


lOUTE  12. — RAVENNA. — Clturches 


[Sect.  t. 


not   beeo   preserved  :    it  was  highly  tholio  worship.       It  is  nii  octagonal 

jmiaed  by  Caoova.  building.    Tbe  mosaics  of  the  roof  re- 

Tbe  CkOTth  of  Sla.  Agala,  another  preseat  Ihe  Bapliam  of  the  Saviour  in 

aooient  edifice  dating  trom  the  fifth  theJordan;  the  Twelve  Apostlta,  each 

and  t>fD  aisles  bearing  a  crown  in  his  hand,  vith  the 


1  of  St.  Peler. 

I    keys',   and    St.  Paul,  who    bears   two 

I    books.   The  large  round  block  of  Ori- 

I    enUl  granite  in  Che  centre  of  the  floor 

la  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  the 


divided  by  twenty 
^  '^nite,  partly  of  clpoiino,  wtcn  o 
Rf  Greek  marble.   'IVo  white  cuh 
rked  like  tbe  skin  of  a  serpen 

lE  by  the  ciceroni  as  worthy 

.    .  lion.      The  choir  contains  a   ancient  baptismal  vase. 

Vipdnting  of  the  Cruciliiion,  by  Fran-  i       The  Chiath  of  Santa  Croa,  built  by 

*Tf»  da  CaUgnola,  praised  by  Vasari    Galla  Placidia  in  the  fifth  century,  and 

k  •  colourist )    and   in  one  of   the    consecrated  by  St.  Peter  Cbrysologua, 

lupeli  of  the  right  nave  is    one  of  has  been  sadly  ruined ;    the  eiUtii^ 

'  ica  Longhi's  best  works,  represent-    building   contains   a   picture    of   the 

J  8.  Agata,  St.  Catherine,  and   St.    Virgin  and  Child  on  a  throne,  with  St. 

Ptlecillit.      The    altar    of    this    chapel    Jerome  and  St.  Catherine,  bj  N.cdoIJ 

'  RondiiuVo. 


itaini  the  bodies  of  S.  Sergi 
and  S.  Agnello  archbishop,  i 


I  The  ruined  Chi 
^iJfffncti'Bi  built  ii 
Wnow  protaned  by  a 


ch  of  S.  SSchele  I 
the  aiith  cenlurj 
ish  market,  still  re 


t  of  a 


■  •Boient   camptmile.       Tlie 

■  .VOntemporaneous  with  the 
V  of  the  church,  represent  I 

between  the  two  atchangcl! 
open  book,  on  ana  page  i 


Blare  Frmiti,  the 
,  ]  Auguslin,  sometimes  called  P.  Caare 
■  di  Eaetnaa,  whose  works  are  highly 
(  praised  by  Laozi.  Among  tliese  may 
,  be  mentioned  the  St  Thomas  of  Villa- 
1  nova;  the  St.  Nicholas;  the  St.  Au- 
r  gustin,  and  the  frescoes  of  the  chapel; 
1  tbe  Virgin,  with  St.  Nicholas  of  T(». 
I  leotino,  St.  Thomas  of  Villanova,  and 
wriOea  "  {Jiii  vidit  me  tiidil  ct  I^trem,'  otiiet  saints:  the  Sta.  Monica,  coii- 
■nd  on  the  other,  "  Ego  el  Paier  unum   sidered  his  masterpiece ;  and  the  Sau 

Inmut."  Above  is  the  Saviour  blessing  Francesco  di  Paola.  The  large  paint' 
tbe  gospels,  between  two  angels,  ac-  ing  of  the  Nativity  over  the  entranco 
«Onpanied  by  the  seven  angels  of  the  '  door,  Ilie  SI.  Sebastian  on  the  left  wall. 
Apocalypse.  '  and  the  St.  Catherine  on  (be  right,  are 

The  Chiirch  of  the  Santo  SpirUo,'hyJ^ra^eeiai  da  Colignolai  the  arch- 
Vallcd  also  lliG  church  of  S.  Tmdoro,  angel  Raphael  is  by  Girolmao  Genga 
una  built  in  the  siith  century  by  of  Urblno. 
:Tbeodoric,  for  the  Arian  bishops;  it,  The  Church  of  Sta.  Afaria  Madda- 
anomedthenameofS,  Theodore  aRer  le«a  has  a  painting  of  the  Saviour 
it*  consecration  to  the  Catholic  wor- '  appearing  to  tbe  Magdalen  in  the 
jhip  by  Archbishop  S.  Agnello,  and  form  of  a  bird,  h;  Filippa  Paiquali ; 
Mterwards  took  the  present  name,  and  some  modern  woilu  of  Dommica 
Besides  its  rich  marbles,  it  contains  .  Coroi  of  Vilerho,  and  TommaioSci- 
ibe  ancient  pulpit  of  tbe  siith  cen-  acra  of  ntlizEara. 
tury  with  Gothic  sculptures,  which  I  Tbe  Church  nf  S.  liamaalda,  or 
was  used  by  the  Arian  prelates.  |  Clam,    originally    belonging    to    the 

The   Ch-reh,  or    Oratory  of  S'anta    Carthusians,  has  become  tbe  chapel  of 
Maria  ir  Caamedim,  near  it,  was  tbe   lbs  college  of  HavennB.      The  cupoU 
aaewoJ^rian  tapiislery  :  its  vault  was   is  painted  in  fresco  by    GiambatliUa 
ilecarated  trith  mosaica   in  the  sisthl  Barbiuni,  wto -wss  b.\kq  l.he  ijainter  of 
century,  after  it  bad  passed  to  the  Ca-  \  the  S.  Komiia\4o  in  Vte  otow,  w&  tit 


Papal  Siate$.1  r.  12. — ravenna, —  Tomb  of  Galla  Placidia.  93 


the  frescoes  in  the  Ist  chapel  on  the 
left  of  the  entrance.  The  2nd 
chapel  contains  a  picture  of  S.  Ro- 
mualdo,  by  Guercino,  The  1st  cha- 
pel on  the  right  has  a  painting  of  S. 
Bartholomew  and  S.  Severus,  by 
Fhineegekini ;  and  the  2nd  a  pic- 
ture of  S.  Benedict,  by  Carlo  Cignani, 
The  sacristy  contains  two  fine  co- 
lumns of  oriental  porphyry,  found 
near  St.  ApoUinare  in  Classe  ;  and  the 
celebrated  picture  of  the  Raising  of 
Lazarus,  by  Francesco  da  Cotignola, 
highly  praised  by  Lanzi.  The  frescoes 
of  the  roof  are  by  P.  Cesare  Pronti. 
In  the  refectory  is  a  fine  fresco  of  the 
marriage  at  Cana,  by  Luca  Longhi 
and  his  son  Francesco ;  the  veil  thrown 
orer  the  woman  on  the  left  of  the  Sa- 
Tiour  was  added  by  his  daughter  Bar- 
hara^  to  satisfy  the  scruples,  it  is  said, 
of  Cardinal  S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  then 
l^ate  of  Ravenna.  The  altars  of  this 
church  almost  surpass  in  brilliancy  all 
the  others  in  the  city ;  many  of  the 
marbles  they  contain  are  precious  on 
account  of  their  extreme  rarity. 

The  Church  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto, 
built  of  the  remains  of  the  Basilica  of 
8.  Lorenzo  in  Cesarca,  in  1553,  with 
a  fii9ade  erected  in  the  last  century,  is 
perhaps  the  finest  church  of  recent  date 
in  RaTcnna.  It  is  celebrated  for  an 
image  of  the  Virgin,  sculptured  in 
marble,  in  oriental  costume,  and  in  the 
act  of  praying— a  very  early  specimen 
of  christian  art,  originally  placed  in 
the  church  of  Sta.  Maria  in  Porto 
Fuori,  and  transferred  here  in  the 
sixteenth  century.  Tlie  3rd  chapel 
contains  the  masterpiece  of  Palma 
Giorancj  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Mark. 
The  Gth  chapel  of  the  opposite  aisle 
lias  a  painting  by  Luca  Longhiy  re- 
presenting the  Virgin,  with  St.  Au- 
gustin,  and  other  saints.  The  sacristy 
contains  an  ancient  porphyry  vase, 
beautifully  worked,  supposed  to  have 
been  a  Roman  sepulchral  urn.  Near 
this  church  is 

The    suppressed    Convent    of    Sta, 

CkiarOf  founded   in   1250   by  Chiara 

da  Polenta,  and  now  a) most  entirely 

ruined.      In   the  interior,   however, 


may  still  be  seen  some  of  the  frescoes 
of  Giotto,  by  whom  it  was  originally 
decorated. 

Mausoleum  of  Galla  Placidia,  called 
also  the  Church  of  SS.  Nazario  e 
Celso.  This  once  magnificent  se- 
pulchre was  built  by  the  Empress 
Galla  Placidia,  the  daughter  of  Theo- 
dosius  the  Great,  and  the  mother  of 
Valentinian,  third  emperor  of  the 
West,  towards  the  end  of  the  fifth 
century.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin 
cross,  55  Roman  palms  in  length  and 
44  in  breadth,  and  is  paved  with  rich 
marbles,  among  which  giallo  antico 
predominates.  The  cupola  is  entirely 
covered  with  mosaics  of  the  time  of 
the  empress,  in  which  we  see  the  four 
evangelists  with  their  symbols,  and  on 
each  wall  two  full-length  figures  of 
prophets.  The  arch  over  the  door  has 
a  representation  of  the  Saviour  as  the 
Good  Shepherd ;  over  the  tomb  of 
the  empress  is  the  Saviour  with  the 
gospels  in  his  hand ;  and  in  each  of 
the  lateral  arches  are  two  stags  at  a 
fountain,  surrounded  by  arabesques 
and  other  ornaments.  The  high  altar 
in  the  centre  of  the  mausoleum,  com- 
posed of  three  grand  plates  of  Oriental 
alabaster,  was  formerly  in  the  church 
of  S.  Vitale,  and  is  referred  to  the 
sixth  century.  The  great  attraction 
however  is  the  massive  sarcophagus  of 
Greek  marble,  resembling  a  large 
coffer  with  a  convex  lid,  which  con- 
tains the  ashes  of  Galla  Placidia.  It 
was  formerly  covered  with  silver 
plates ;  but  these  have  disappeared, 
together  with  the  other  ornaments 
with  which  it  was  originally  enriched. 
In  the  side  next  the  wall  was  formerly 
a  small  aperture,  through  which  the 
body  of  the  empress  was  seen,  sitting 
in  a  chair  of  cypress  wood,  clothed  in 
her  imperial  robes.  Some  children 
having  introduced  a  lighted  candle,  in 
1577,  the  robes  took  fire,  and  the 
body  was  reduced  to  ashes  ;  since  that 
time  the  aperture  has  remained  closed. 
On  the  right  is  another  sarcophagus 
of  Greek  marble  covered  >«\V\\  CVwys^ 
tian  syml)o\s,  'w\\\c\\coxv\.«l\ws>\\^  ^"^v^ 
of  the  EiTOpeiot  lloxiox\M^  \X\»i\iXQ>"Csv«t 


HtJtfTE  12.i-^^AVB!(WA. — Pi^cux-of  Theodwic   fSect."! 


Galla  Plwidia,  and  the  blher 
Untioiun.  On  eaeh  aide  of  ' 
nance    door  a  a  small  sarDO) 

^tmon  at  Valentiniao,  the  other  those ' 
E'tf  Honoris,  hU  sister.  "  The  sub-  | 
K'jhnmDeaD  maiuoleum  oF  Galla  PlBcldlOi 
K'ii  »  a  monument  of  tbe  dreadful 
■  !  vatastrophes  uf  the  Lower  Empire. 
I  'Tliia  daughter  of  TheoiiosiuB,  sister 
I  «r  Honorius  mother  of  Valentiiiian 
}  XIIii  vlxi  WS.1  lH>rn  at  Cunslsntiaople, 
I  4iad  died  St  Rome,  was  a  slave  twice, 
I  V-quren,  an  empress  ;  first  the  wife  of 
■■  !  King  of  IhB  GoUia.  Alaric'e  bro- 
!t-in-law,  who  foil  in  lave  witEi  his 
t  Wptive,  and  aflerwards  of  one  of  her 
nlwathac^s  generals,  wham  she  was 
kanuiUj  auccesiirul  in  subjecting  to  her 
finil ;  a  talented  woman,  hut  without 
[.ganerosity  or  greatness,  who  liaslsned 
[  Ihefallof  the  empire— whose  ambi- 
id  vices  liBve  obscured  and  as 
D  polluted  her  misfortunes." — 
fafery. 

Pilace    of    Theodorie.  —  Of    this 
uniflcenl  palace  of  the  Gothic  king, 


-,  size  and  weight  of  the  vase,  it 
-  \  not  he  forgotten  that  the  same  n: 
f  ner;  which  raised  the  solid  roul. 
■  culated  Id  weigh  at  least  two  hundred 
'  tons,  would  be  equally  effii^iei 
,  I  elevating  the   porphyry  vose.      ' 


I  Sat  p 
the  roof,  on   which   t 


tliat  a 


1   relat< 


royal 


jomi 


s  thei 


,  and  of  the 
Bng  of  the  Lombards,  the  only  por- 

Bon  lemainiug  is  a  high  wall,  in  the 

Flapper  part  of  which  are  encrusted 
iTei^t  small  marble  columns.  At  its 
'a  porphyry  basin  of  large  size, 
ah  an  inscription  was  placed  in 

the  ashes  of  Theudoric,  and 
was  originally  situated  on  lh( 
his  mausoleum.  Many  anli- 
,  however,  now  cnntidrr  that  il 
bath  i  and  that  the  only  argu- 
T  9fsA  in  favour  of  its  having  been  tli( 
I  (aicophagus  of  Theodotic  is  the  in- 
1  ooncluaive  fact  that  it  was  found  neai 
They  urge  the  dilli- 
■  JVulty  of  placing  so  great  a  mass  on  th( 
\  Ifoof  of  the  mausoleum,  and  content 
'  e  late  date  of  tlie  inscription 


eeived   a 


additi 


riginally  stood.  Mr.  Hop 
however,  observes  that  "The  porphyry 
receptacle,  now  immured  in  the  fVont 
uf  the  building  at  lUvenna  called 
Theodorio's  pahice,  but  more  probably 
that  of  the  late  eiarchs,  supposed  la 
have  contained,  on  the  top  of  Theo- 
doric's  monument,  the  body  of  that 
king,  likewise  in  ils  fiirm  proclaims 
itself  a  bailC'  Thepalace  was  chiefly 
ruined  by  Charlemagne,  who,  with 
Ihe  consent  of  the  Pope,  cai 


stood 


In  the  ad- 


The  Tomb  of  Dante,  —  Of  all  the 
monuments  of  Ravenna,  there  is 
wliieli  eioites  to  prulbuud  au  In 
as  the  tomb  of  Dakte.  In  spite  of 
tbe  bad  taste  of  the  building  in  which 
it  is  placed,  it  is  impossible  to  approach 
the  last  reating-plaee  of  the  great  poet 
without  feeling  that  it  is  one  of  tbe 
first  monuments  of  Italy. 
"  Unaratcrul  noTence  [  D«iteftleei«r 
Like  ScLpio.huriod  br  the  upbraiding 
TTij  f.cllMi^  in  tliDlr  worse  llisn  civ 


The  remains  of  the  poet  wi 
nally  interred  in  the  churcl 
Francesco;  but  on  the  eip 
his    pstroD  Guido    da   Pole: 


.ulty 


protected  from  the  persecuti 
the  Florentines,  and  from  the  i 
munication  of  the  Pope.  Cardinal 
llcltrHmo  del  PoEgelto  ordered  his 
bones  to  be  \jwtn(.  ■ml^i  \vh 


Pcgjfoi  Siaies.2     route  12. — ravenna. —  Tomb  of  Dante,      95 


**Moiiveh7,"  and  they  narrowly  es- 
caped the  pro&nation  of  a  disinter- 
ment.    After  the  lapse  of  a  century 
and  a  hal^  Bernardo  Bembo,  Podesta 
of  Ravenna  for  the  republic  of  Venice 
in   1482,  and  father  of  the  cardinal, 
did  honour  to  his  memory  by  erecting 
a  mausoleum  on  the  present  site,  from 
the  designs  of  Pietro  Lombarda     In 
1692  this  building  was  repaired  and 
restored  at  the  public  expense  by  the 
cardinal   legate,    Doraenico   Corsi  of 
Florence,   and  rebuilt  in  its  present 
form  in  1780,  at  the  cost  of  Cardinal 
G<HUtaga  of  Mantua,  the  legate  of  that 
period.    It  is  a  square  building,  inter- 
nally decorated  with  stucco  ornaments 
little  worthy  of  such  a  sepulchre.    On 
the  ceiling  of  the  cupola   are  four 
medallions  of  Virgil,  Brunetto  Latiui 
(the  master  of  the  poet),  Can  Grande 
delU  Scala,  and   Guido  da  Polenta, 
his  patron.     On   the   walls  are  two 
Latin  inscriptions,  one  in  verse  record- 
ing the  foundation  of  Bembo,  the  other 
the  dedication  of  Cardinal   Gonzaga 
to  the  ^  Poetae  sui  temporis  primo  re- 
stitutori."    llie  sarcophagus  of  Greek 
marble  which  contains  the   ashes  of 
the  poet  bears  his  portrait,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  crown  of  laurel  with 
the  motto  Virtvti  ei  honori.     The  in- 
scription is  said  to  have  been  written 
by  himself.     Below  it,  in  a  marble 
case,  is  a  long  Latin  history  of  the 
tomb,  to  which  it  is  not  necessary  to 
refer   more    particularly,    as    all   the 
leading   facts    it    records    have    been 
given  above. 

The  feelings  with  which  this  se- 
pulchre was  visited  by  three  of  the 
greatest  names  in  modern  literature 
deserve  to  be  mentioned ;  Chateau- 
briand is  said  to  have  knelt  bare- 
headed at  the  door  before  he  entered  ; 
Byron  deposited  on  the  tomb  a  copy 
of  his  works ;  and  Alfieri  prostrated 
himself  before  it,  and  embodied  his 
emotions  in  one  of  the  finest  sonnets 
in  the  Italian  language :  — 

**  O  RTsn  iMulrc  Alighivr,  rc  dal  cici  mlrl 
M<*  tuo  diMccpol  non  indvgno  stnrmi, 
I>a1  cor  traoiMlo  jtrofoiuli  ito/^pirif 
TroMtnto  laaaiui  a'  tuol  fUnerei  marmi.'* 
Jte. 


Lord  Byron's  lines  commemorating 
the  tomb  of  the  poet  and  the  monu- 
mental column  of  Gaston  de  Foix 
will  scarcely  fail  to  suggest  them- 
selves to  the  reader :  -~ 

'*  I  canter  by  the  spot  each  after ooon 

Where  perished  in  his  fame  the  hero-boy 
AVho  lived  too  long  for  men,  but  died  too 
soon 
For  human  vanity,  the  young  De  Foix  ! 
A  broken  pillar,  not  uncouthly  hewn. 

But  which  neglect  is  hastening  to  destroy. 
Records  Kavenna's  carnage  on  its  face. 
While  weeds  and  ordure  rankle  round  the 
base. 

"  I  pass  each  day  where  Dante's  bones  are 
laid: 
A  little  cupola,  more  neat  than  solemn. 
Protects  his  dust,  but  reverence  here  is  paid 
To  the  bard's  tomb,  and  not  the  warru>r'8 
column : 
The  time  must  come,  when  both  alike  de- 
cayed. 
The  chieftain's  trophy,  and  the  poet's 
volume. 
Will  sink  where  lie  the  songs  and  wars  of 

earth. 
Before  Pelides'  death,  or  Homer's  birth. 

**  With  human  blood  that  column  was  ce. 
mented, 
With  human  filth  that  column  is  defiled. 
As  if  the  peasant's  coarse  contempt  were 
vented 
To  show  his  loathing  of  the   spot  he 
soil'd : 
Thus  is  the  trophy  used,  and  thus  lamented 
Should  ever  be  those  blood-hounds,  ttota. 
whose  wild 
Instinct  of  gore  and  glory  earth  has  known 
Those  sufterings  Dante  saw  in  hell  alona" 

Near    the   tomb   of   Dante    is   the 
house  occupied  by  Lord  Byron,  whose 
name    and    memory    arc     almost     as 
much    associated    with    Ravenna,    as 
those    of   the    great    "  Poet- Sire  of 
Italy."     He    declared   himself  more 
attached    to    Ravenna    than    to    any 
other  place,  except  Greece ;  he  praised 
its  *'  delightful  climate,"  and  says  he 
j  was   never  tired  of  his  rides  in  the 
i  pine  forest ;   he  liked  Ravenna,  more- 
over, l)ecause  it  was  out  of  the  beaten 
track    of  travellers,    and   because   he 
■  found  the  higher  classes  of  its  society 
'  well  educated  and  liberal  beyond  what 
was  usually  the  case  in  other  conti- 
nental cities.      He  resided  in  it  rather 
more  than  two  years,  "  and  quitted  it,** 
says  the   Countess  G\\vtt\«\\,  ^''V\>\\ 
!  the   deepest  Te9;Tvi\,,  aivOi  vjKxXv  ^  v^^- 
,sci\t\menl  that  \\\a  ^c^a\VM\'i  ^^oAa^^ 


HOVTt  IS. — AATZMNA. — Poheu. 

aldsei 


^  twrous  acliuiu  ;  many  &milteioved 

■  lum  t)ie  fev  prosperoua  days  they  eier 

■enjoyed;   bis  nrriTal  was  spobuo    " 

I  piece  of  public  good  fbrtune,  ar 

d^nTturc  Hia  public  caUunity." 

^  Prophecy  of  Dante  *'  vas  composed 

fbere,at  the  suggestion  of  the  Countess 

"  licoioli ;    and  the  traniUlion  of  thi 

B  of  '>  Fraocesca  da   Rimini  "  wat 

pcKecuted  at  Eateraia,  where  just  fivi 

id  in  tbe  very  houst 

1  which   the   unfurtunalc    lady    wa; 

,   Danle's  poem  had  been    com- 

Tbo  "Motgantc  Maggiore,' 


pMwln 


Faliei 


"  the  fifth  c 


I^DDaJiUD,"  "The  Biues," 
"TheTwoFoscari," 

^UesTen  and  Eirtb."  and  the 
F  Judgment,"  were  also  cc 
"ring  his  residence  at 


Sards 


■  ,  or  old  le 


"  llimt  pl.« 


^^. 


Falaea. — The  Archbiihap' i  Palact, 
the  cathedral,  is  one  of  the  most 
■esting  edifices  in  Ravenna  to  the 
chiislian  antiquary.  Tbc  cbapcl,  still 
used  by  the  alchbisliops,  is  tbc  one 
which  was  built  and  uied  by  St.  Peter 
CbrysoIoguB  in  the  liFlh  century, 
without  the  slightest  alteration  or 
•fining  hand  has  yet 
^n  laid  on  its  aitar  or  mosaics.  The 
Iflige  plates  of 
:k  marble,  and  the  ceiling  still 
ns  its  mosaics  as  fVesh  as  vhcn 
were  Gist  mailE.  Id  the  middle 
represent  the  symbols  of  the 
ingelists;  and  below,  arranged  in 
'  IS,  the  Saviour,  the  apostles,  and 
us  saints.     The  altar  has  some 

of  the  cathedral  previous  lo  its 
»tion.  In  one  of  the  balls  of 
the  palace  is  a  collection  of  ancient 
Bomaii  and  Christian  inscriptions 
with  other  fragments  of  antiquity. 
7n  Ibe  hall  celled  the  "  Appartameolo 
of  Cardinal  Cap- 


bv  Bcr. 


arls  by  Thor 
ir  is  the  s 


On  tl 


hird 


lall  AnAiipiiropal  libt 


formerly  6 
most  of  these  disappeared  during  tli< 
political  calamities  of  the  city.  I 
still,  however,  retains  the  celebratei 
MS.  whose  extraordinary  siic  am 
preservation  have  made  it  tnowTi  b 
most  literary  antiquaries  :  it  is  a  brief 
of  Ibe  twelfth  century,  by  which  Pope 
Paacal  II.  confirmed  the  privilege*  of 
the  archbishops.     The  most   e 


II  preserved  in  thesi 
irom  the  lifth  century, 
le  Falazzo  del  Goccnto, 


historical  documents,  but  most  of  them 
have  disappeared,  and  the  oldest  dates 
only  from  the  foiirteenth  century. 
The  Palazzo  CnDalli.  the  P.  L, 
leSi,  the  P.  Raaponi,  the  P.  SpTe/i,&c., 
bad  all  of  ihem  small  galleriei  ~ 
paintings  j    but    with   few  eiceptiont  i 

induced  them  to  transfer  theit  c 
lections  to  the  Public  Academy  of 
the  Fine  Arts.  The  fine  ceiling  of 
the  Pal.  Ciuiio  Rasponi,  representing 
the   death   of   Camilla  queen   of  the 


Volsci 


by    . 


stmg 


the  figure  of  the  queen  a 
me  portrait  of  Madame  Murat  ' 
daui^bteT  married  into  the  rami 
The  Library,  BUiKoleca  Ce 
founded  by  the  Abate  D.  Piel 
ueii  of  Cremona,  in  1T14,  and  sub- 
sequently enriched  by  private  munifi. 
cenceandby  the  libraries  of  suppressed 
convents,  contains  upwards  of  40,000 


collec 


n  of  fi 


i,  and  oi 


eenth  century.     Ami 


of  S.  Apol-lleotions,  Aew 


3  fif. 
s  MS,  col- 


I^aptd  iSftifef.]  R.  12. — RAVENNA. — Library;  Museum^  8^c.    97 


bnted  Codex  of  Aristophanes  of  the  to  be  an  unique  example.   The  modern 
tenth  century,  long  known  as  unique,  collection   is  also  arranged  in  three 
and  uied  by  Bekker  for  the  Invemizi  classes :   1.  Medals  of  the  Popes  from 
edition,  published  at  Leipzig  in  1794.    Gregory  III. ;  2.  Medals  of  illustrious 
It  is  recorded  of  this  MS.  that  Eugene  personages  and  of  royal  dynasties ;  S. 
Bcauhamois  wished  to   purchase  it ;  [  Coins  of  various  Italian  cities.    In  the 
but  the  inhabitants  being  resolved  not ;  first  class  is  a  fine  medal  of  Benedict 
to  lose  so  great  a  treasure,  concealed  i  III.,  interesting  because  it  is   con- 
tbe  volume.     Cardinal  Consalvi  also  i  sidered  conclusive  as  to  the  fable  of 
endeavoured  to  deprive  the  citizens  of  |  Pope  Joan.     In  the  second  class  is  a 
it,  and  ordered  them  to  sell  it  to  the  complete  series  of  the  House  of  Medici, 
King  of  Denmark ;    but  they   were   in  eighty-four  bronze  medals  of  equal 
equally  firm,  and  the  affair  was  at  length 
terminated  by  two  scholars  from  Co- 
penhagen being  sent  to  copy  it.     A 
MS.  of  Dante^  on  vellum,  with  beau- 
tiful miniatures  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, is  preserved  here :  its  version  is 
little    known.      Among   the  princeps 
editions,  which  range  from  1465  to 
1500,  are  ths   Decretals  of  Boniface 


size. 

The  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts,  an 
admirable  institution  of  recent  date, 
does  honour  to  the  patriotic  and  en- 
lightened feelings  of  the  citizens.  It 
contains  a  Pinacothek  or  museum  of 
pictures,  and  a  good  collection  of  plas- 
ter casts  of  celebrated  masterpieces 
i  both  ancient  and  modern,  contributed 
F///.,  on  veSum,  Mayence,  Faust  and  by  different  benefactors  at  Rome  and 
Sekaffer,  1465;  the  Hiny  the  Younger, ,  Florence.  Many  of  the  resident  no- 
di vtUum,  2  vols.  Venice,  Gio.  Spira,  bility,  desirous  of  promoting  the  de- 
1468;  The  Bible,  with  miniatures,  on  sign,  have  removed  their  family  collec- 
kidt  Venice,  Janson,  1478 ;  the  St.  Au-  |  tions  firom  their  palaces  and  deposited 
pustin,  De  Civitate  Dei,  1468 ;  the  !  them  in  this  public  museum,  to  which 
Dante   of  Lodovico  and  Alberto  Pie-   all  classes  of  students  have  free  access. 


montesi,  Milan,  1478.  Among  the  mis- 
cellaneous collection  may  be  noticed, 
the  History  of  the  Old  and  New  Testa- 
ment, in  Chinese,  printed  on  silk,  and  a 
series  of  upwards  of  4,000  parchments, 


The  Municipality  likewise  contributed 
the  pictures  in  their  possession ;  and 
the  Cardinal  Archbishop  Falcon ieri 
has  encouraged  the  institution  by  si- 
milar liberality  and  patronage.  Among 


beginning  with  the  eleventh  and  end-  '  the  works  it  contains  may  be  mentioned 
ing   with    the   last    century,    chiefly  |  the  St.  John  Baptist  and  the  St.  Fran- 


relating  to  the  order  of  Canonici  Re- 
gulari  Lateranensi. 

The  Museum,  besides  a  good  mis- 
cellaneous collection  of  vases,  idols, 
bronzes,  and  carved  work  in  ivory, 
contains  a  rich  cabinet  of  medals,  an- 


cis,  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci ,-  head  of  St. 

Anna,  Correggio  {?) ;  sketch  of  a  Fury, 

Michael  Angelo ;  the  Crucifixion,  Da- 

niele  da  Voiterra  ;   St.  John,  Guercino  ; 

the   Deposition,  and  a  Portrait,  Ba- 

roccio;  the  Deposition,  the  Nativity, 

cient  and  modem.     The  ancient  are  i  Guido ;  the  Virgin  throned,  Sassofer- 

arranged  in  three  classes :   1 .  Medals  |  rato ;  Adam  and  Eve,  the  Magdalen, 

of  the  free  cities;  2.  Consular;  and  3. !  Albani ;  two  portraits,  Tintoretto ;  the 

Imperial.      In  the  second  class  is  one '  Holy  Family,  Portrait  of  Charles  V., 

of  Cicero,  struck  by  the  town  of  Mag-  |  the  Deposition,  the   Nativity,  Virgin 

nesia,  in  Lydia :  it  bears  on  one  side !  and   Child  throned,  Lvca  Longhi ;   a 

his  profile  and  name  in  Greek  charac-  I  ^\xn,  Barbara  Longhi;  the  Deposition, 

ters,  and  on  the  other  a  hand  holding  a    Vasari ;  the  Flight  out  of  Egypt,  iMca 

crown  with  a  branch  of  laurel,  an  ear  i  Giordano ;  the  Virgin  throned,  Fran- 

of  com,  a  bough  of  the  vine  bearing  a '  cesco  da  Cotignola;    Descent   of  the 

bunch  of  grapes,  with  the  inscription  '  Holy  Spirit,  Innocenxxo  da  ImoVv  ;  %\.« 

in  Greek  "  77ieo</ore  of  the  Magnesians   Jerome,   Albert   Durer  ;   Vw<i  Aa^V^SAN 

oenr  Mount  Sipylus, "    It  Ja  supposed  '  Rubciu  j  the  CYvemvaX,  Geratd  Dow  \ 
C^JsS^  it.  _ 


9S      ROOTB 12.— BAVewsA.— ffiMpfte/j  TfKrare,8se.     fSect.I. 


DanciuEl,  Tniieri ;  UndBcapes,  by  Van-    S.  Mamante,  of  Ihe  Tuscan 
icrvrid6  and  JJerffhrm,  cnUeA  from  a  ireigbhouring 

Tlie  ffnipHal,  fbrmCTly  H   convent,    dedicated  to  S.   Mama,  wi 
ff»8  (bunded  bif  Atchbisbop  Codronchi 
It  Uis  own  eipenie.  in  order  lo  super- 

■      "  e  old  hoapital   in  the  Via  del 


1   tbe 
fcjippoaed  to  hnie  been  deaigned   by 

^'The  Theatre,  erected  in  1724,  by 
linal  Bentivoglia,  has  four  tiers  of 
^es,  and  is  geDerallj  n-ell  supplied 
Ift  the  leading  performers  of  Milkn 
A  other  great  towns  of  Italy. 
"Tib  Fiaaa  Mat/giort,  supposed 

Senatorium.  bw  two  granite  caluRnu 
erected  by  the  Venetiani.  one  of  which 
bears  the  sutue  of  S.  Apollinaris  by 

of  8.  Vitalis  by  Cletnente  Molli,  which 
replaced  one  of  St.  Mark  by  Lom- 
bardo,  in  !  509,  whtn  Kaveuna  was  re- 
stored (o  tbe  uhureb.  Between  tbern 
is  tbe  sitting  statue  of  CieniBnt  XII., 
with  an  inscription  recording  that  it 
n»s  erected  by  the  "  S.  P.  ft."  of  Ra- 
venna, in  gratitude  for  the  service  ran- 
diired  by  that  pontilF  in  diiertiug  the 
channel  of  the  Ronco  and  Monlonc, 
liy  which  the  city  was  threatened 

Tbe  Piaiin  ddT  jlijuih  is  so  called 
from  the  Tuscan  column  of  grey  gra- 
iinled  by  an  eagle,  beariojt . 


.  It  in 
1EI8,  and  called  P.  Borghe^ia,  in  ho- 
nour of  Paul  V.  Near  this,  the  French 
army  a(l5l2  effected  the  breach  in  the 
walls  by  which  they  entered  and  sacked 
Ihe  city.  The  Porta  Sitova,  supposed 
to  have  been  designed  by  Bernini,  iu 
the  Corinthian  order,  occupies  tbe  site 
of  the  P.  San  Lorenzo,  rebuilt  in  1G53 
by  Cardinal  Donghi,  under  the  name 
of  P.  Panfilia,  in  honour  of  Innocent 
X.  1  but  the  common  name  still  re- 
mains. The  Porto  Serrata,  so  called 
because  it  was  closed  by  tlie  Venetians 
during  their  government  of  Ravenna, 
was  re-opened  by  Julius  1 1,  under  the 
name  of  P.  Glulia,  and  restored  in  the 
seventeenth  century  by  Cardinal  Cibo 


;  btittt: 
of  tbe  Ven 


old  title 


survived  the  names  both  of  the  pope 
and  of  tbe  legate.  The  Foria  Sin,  in 
the  Doric  style,  formerly  called  P. 
Uraisina.  and  P.  di  Sarsina,  was  re- 
built in  its  present  form  in  156%  oa 
in    ancient  galcwRy,  the 


of  which  is 


inkno 


The  Fortrat  of  Ravenna,  built  by 
e  Venetians  in  1457,  and  then  es- 
teemed one  of  the  strongest  in  Italy, 

with  a  commentar]-  on  tbe  fall 


thcarmsofCardinalGaetsni,  to  whose   of  the  imperial  oily:  it  was  partly  de- 
memory  it  was  erected  in  1609.  molished  in  1T35  to  furnish  materials 
The  Piaiia  dd  D«omo  has  a  similar    for  the  Ponte  Nuovo  over  the  united 
column  of  [{ley  granite,  surmounted  |  stream  of  the    Ronco   and    Monlone, 
ic  of  the   Virgin,  placed  '  and  little  now  remains  but  tbe  found- 


tliei 


The  Torre  del  FiJAIico,  a  large  square  '       The  Port  of  Si 
leaning  tower,  cannot  fail  to  attract    frequented   by 
tbe  notice  of  the  stranger,  but  nothing 
is  known  of  its  history  or  origin. 

The  FiVe  Galtt  of  Ravenna  merit 
notice  i  Ibe  Porta  Adriatta,  a  handsome 
gateway  of  the  Doric  order,  was  built 
in  1S8S  by  Cardii   ■  "         ■ 


still  much 
J  barges  of 
the  Adriatic.  The  old  Porto  Candiano 
being  rendered  useless  by  the  diversion 
of  the  Ronco  and  Montonc,  the  Canak 
rVovlsb'o  was  opened  in  1TS7,  for  the 


IS  Porta  Au- 


rea  built  by  Clsudl] 

JjieEmjierorFredetickll.  The  Por(a 

^Mrra^i.  formerly  called  P.  Corslni  in 

fiaijour  or  Clement  XII.,  was  built  by 

C-ardimJ  Atberoai  in  1 739.   The  Porta 


niution  with  Ihe  sea  at  the  new  Forin 
C-waim.  The  length  of  this  canal  is 
about  live  miles,  and  a  broad  road  has 
been  made  along  its  right  bank,  which 
contributes  much  to  the  aocommo- 
dation  of  tVe  cit.'y.  Convenient  boats 
may  »l'«ays\jebitt4\\Bteioi'iiiB^Ba^ 


I^Qjpal  iSftiAiff.]  ROUTE  12. — RAVEKNA. — Towh  of  Theodoric.  99 


■age  by  the  canals  to  Venice  or  Chi- 
oggia.     (See  the  last  Route.) 

About  a   mUe   beyond  the  Porta 
Serrata  is  the  Mautoteum  <tf  Theodorie, 
MngofikB  Goths,  now  the  church  of 
SCa.  Maria  Rotonda :  it  was  built  by 
Theodoric  himself,  in  the  beginning  of 
the  sixth  century.     On  the  expulsion 
of  the  Arians,  the  seal  of  the  church 
in    promoting   the  Catholic   worship 
ejected  the   ashes  of  the  king  as  an 
Arian  heretic,  and  despoiled  his  sepul- 
chre of  its  ornaments.     It  is  a  ro- 
tunda, built  of  square  blocks  of  marble, 
resting  on  a  decagonal  basement,  each 
aide  of  which  has  a  deep  recess  covered 
with  a  semicircular  arch   formed  of 
eleven  blocks  of  stone  notched   into  | 
each   other.       An   oblique    flight   of. 
steps  on  each  side  of  the  front  leads  to 
the  upper  story ;  they  were  added  to 
the   building   in   1 780.      The  lower : 
part  of  the  upper  story,  though  cir- 
cular within,  is  decagonal  externally. 
In  one  of  these  sides  is  the  door ;  in 
each  of  the  other  nine  is  a  small  square 
recess,   said   to  have    been  formerly 
filled   with  a  range  of  columns  (?). 
Over  these  is  a  broad   circular  band, 
above  which  all  the  rest  is  also  cir- 
cular.    The  vault  stones  of  the  door- 
way are  curiously  notched  into  each ' 
other,  forming  a  straight  arch.    Above 
the  circular  band  is  a  row  of  small 
windows,  over  which  is  a  ma<»ive  cor- 
nice.    The  roof  is   a  solid   dome  of 
marble,    thirty   feet    in    its   internal 
diameter,  hollowed  out  to  the  depth  of 
ten  feet ;  the  thickness  of  the  centre 
is  aI)out  four  feet,  and  of  the  edges 
about  two    feet    nine   inches.       Tlic 
weight  of  this  enormous  mass  is  esti- 
mated  at  above  200  tons.     On  the  out- 
ftidc  are  twelve  large  i)ointed  projec- 
tions  perforated   as   if    designed   for 
handles :  thev  bear  the  names  of  the 

* 

twelve  apostles,  but   it   is  difficult  to 
conceive  how  anv  statues  could  have 

« 

stood  on  them.  Tlie  summit  is  flat, 
and  upon  it  is  supposed  to  have  rested 
the  porphyry  vase  containing  the  ashes 
of  the  king(?).  It  is  now  divided 
into  two  unequal  portionn  by  a  large 
cnck,  produced  it  is  said  by  lightning. 


The  basement  is  filled  with  water,  and 
the  lower  story  is  buried  to  the  top  of 
the  arcades,  in  consequence  of  the 
raising  of  the  soil.  The  interior  of 
the  building  is  circular,  with  a  niche 
opposite  the  door,  apparently  intended 
for  an  altar. 

About  two  miles  firom  the  city  is  the 
Church  of  Sta,  Maria  in  Pbrto  Fuori, 
built  towards  the  end  of  the  eleventh 
century  by  B.  Pietro  Onesti,  called  77 
PeceeUore,  in  fulfilment  of  a  vow  to  the 
Virgin  made  during  a  storm  at  sea  in 
1 096.     The  left  nave  on  entering  the 
church  contains  the  ancient  sarcopha- 
gus in  which  the  body  of  the  founder 
was   deposited  in   1119.     The   chief 
interest  of  this  church  arises  from  its 
firescoes  by  Giotto,  in  noticing  which 
Lanzi  justly  alludes   to   the  honour 
conferred  upon  Ravenna  by  the  fimiily 
of  Polenta,  in  leaving  behind  them  at 
their   fall  the   memory  of  two   such 
names  as  Dante   and  Giotto.     It   is 
believed  that   the   entire  church  was 
covered  with  the  frescoes  of  that  great 
master ;  and  the  lateral  chapels,  part 
of  the  left  wall  of  the  middle  aisle, 
and  other  parts  of  the  church  still  re- 
tain sufficient  to  give  weight  to  this 
belief.  The  Choir  is  completely  covered 
with  his  works ;  on  the  left  wall  are 
the  Nativity,  and  the  Presentation  of 
the  Virgin ;  the   right   wall   contains 
the  Death,  A<;sumpti(Ni,  and  Corona- 
tion of  the  Virgin,  and  the  Massacre 
of  the  Innocents.     The  frescoes  of  the 
,  tribune  represent  various  events  in  the 
life  of  the  Saviour ;  imder  the  arches 
,  are  different   Fathers   and    Martyrs ; 
and  on  the  ceiling  are  the  four  Evan- 
gelists with   their   symbols,   and  four 
Doctors  of  the  Church,  all  undoubted 
works  of  Giotto.     Tlic   altarpicce  of 
the  Conception  is  by  Francesco  Lonffhi. 
'Vhe  quadrangular  tower,  which  is  the 
base  of  the  Campanile,  is  considered  by 
local  antiquaries  to  be  the  remains  of 
the  ancient  Faro  of  the  port,  which  is 
supposed  to  have  been  situated  on  this 
'  spot ;     from    this    circumstance    the 
,  church  AexiNCH  \\\e  xv3L"wwi  o^  ''''  dV.  PcrrVcv 
I  without  tVic  waWsJ** 
I       Basilica  of  S.  i^poUVnaTt  in  Qa**^ 

i 


ROUTS  12. — ^RAVEWKA. — Sai.of  S.ApoBifiare.    [^ Sect.  I. 


o  traveller  should  leave  Kavenn: 

lica,  which  IB  a  punsr  specimen  of  lumns,  lurmoun 
Christian  art  than  an;  which  can  ba  imitation  of  the  ( 
found  even  in  Rome.  It  lies  on  the  port  rouud-headi 
road  to  Itimini,  and  may  therefore  |  witli  double  sei 
be  fiuteil  in  passing  by  peraoas  pro- ,  From  the  nave  ' 
deeding  south  ;  hot  the  distai 
the  oity  (about  three  milei),  will 


ind  two  aMes  of  loOy 


the  altar,  placed  above  a  crypt,  and 


arly  ,  . 


traveller 
ChrlttiBn  antlquitiei  fram  devoting  s 

About   a  quarter   of  a    mile  beyond 


the: 


uihci 


rorea,  founded  by  Lau-  I 
ritiiu.  chamberlain  of  the  Emperor 
Hoiiorius,  and  destroyed  in  1555  to 
supply  tnalerial«  for  the  Church  of  Sta.  | 
I  ^aria  in  Porto  within  the  city.  Tills 
rt.of  apoliation  was  opposed  by  the  | 

1  belonged    had    obtained    the ' 
It  of  the  pope,  and  the  cardinal , 
!,  Capo  di  Ferro,  completed  the  I 
*.«  deatruclion  by  sending  all  its 
n>  excepting  two,  togalhei  with 
xsioui  marblca,  to  Kome.    The 
t  basilica  was  the  lost  relic  of, 
nt;  at  Caarea.      A  short  distance 
pnd,  the  united  stream  of  the  Itonco 
el  Montana  is  crossed  by  the  Punie| 
.  a  bridge  of  live  arches,  erected  ' 
.e  Cardinal  Albcrooi  was  legate  of 
agna.       The    road    crosses    the 
aiy  plain    for    about    two  miles; 
on  the  very  skirta  of  (he  pine- 
it  ii  5.  ApaBiHarc  in  Claxie.      This 

I  the  early  ages  of  Clirbti- 
>  built  in  5S4,  by  Julian, 
us,  on  the  site  of  a  templa  of 

shbishop.  St.  Maximian,  in  549.  It  i 
H  formerly  Eurrounded  by  a  quadri- 
rticiia,  but  Ihe  lateriil  portions  have 
D  destroyed.  It  is  built  of  thin 
•  or  aie«,  in  the  manner  of  the' 
It  Roman  edifices. 


The 

tiroes  in  the  year  the  subterranean 
chapel  of  the  saint  is  full  of  water, 
jae  valli  o/  the  imie,  ond  part  of  those 
of  the  aisles,  are  decorated  with  a 
chronological  series  of  portraits  of  the 
biihopt  and  urchbishopi  of  Ravenna, 
beginning  with  St.  Apollinaris  of  An- 
tioch,  a  follower  of  St.  Peter,  who 
auSered  martyrdom  under  Vespasian, 
i.  n.  74.  The  portraits  in  the  nave 
are  mosaics,  tlioso  iu  the  aisles  are 
painted;  they  come  down  in  unbroken 
succession  to  tlie  present  archbishop. 
Cardinal  Falconieri,  who  is  the  126th 
prelate  from  the  commencement,  giving 


erage 


Mali 


of  fourteen  ; 

I,  and  the  marbles 
ed   the   walbt  of  Ih 

carried  oBf  by  Sigi 

0  adorn  hi 


itRimi 


n  the  I 


ch  of  3. 
>iddle 


'.    door 


till    I 


solemn  festivals.      The 
trided  by  columns  of  Grt 


small  altar  of  Greek 
marble,  dedicated  tfl  the  Virgin  by 
St.  Maximian,  in  the  sixth  century. 
In  the  left  aitle  are  four  sarcophagi  of 
Greek  marble,  covered  with  bas-reliofB 
and  Christian  symbols,  in  which  are 
buried  fo'ur  archbishops  of  the  ace. 
On  the  wall  between,  there  is  an  in- 
scribed stone  with  an  inscription,  be- 
ginning Otho  III.  Ron.  I«p.,  record- 
ing, as  a  proof  of  his  remorse  for  the 

irata  crimina,"  he  walked  barefooted 
irom  Rome  to  Monte  Gargano,  and 
passed  Ciirty  days  in  penance  in  this 
basilica,  "  expiating  his  sins  with  sack- 
cloth and  voluntary  scourging."  fn 
lie  right  aiile  are  four  sarcophagi,  si- 
milar to  tho&e  juit  described,  and  like- 
wise GontaViua^  \\vQ  T«\c\^VGA  c^  «a:i\') 


flapai  Siates,2     route  12. — rav£nna. — The  Pineta,         101 


archbishops  of  the  diocese.  All  these  five  mosaics:  that  in  the  middle  re* 
tombs  were  placed  in  the  early  ages  of  presents  the  Saviour,  and  the  symbols 
the  church  under  the  external  portico,  |  of  the  four  evangelists ;  in  the  second 


and   were  removed  to  their  present 
places  as  a  measure  of  security.     A 


are  seen  the  cities  of  Bethlehem  and 
Jerusalem,  from  which  a  number  <^ 


long  inscription  in  the  wall  of  this  the  faithful,  under  the  form  of  sheep, 
aisle,  beginning  **  In  hoe  low  stetit ,  are  issuing ;  in  the  third  is  a  palm,  as 
ArtaP  records  that  the  body  of  St.  j  a  symbol  of  victory ;  the  fourth  con- 
Apollinaris  was  formerly  buried  there.  <  tains  the  archangels  Michael  and  Ga- 
Ou  each  dde  of  the  grand  doorway  is  briel ;  and  the  fifth,  St.  Matthew  and 


a  sarcophagus  of  Greek  marble,  larger 
than  the  preceding,  but  covered  with 
similar  ornaments  and  symbols.  The 
high  altar,  beneath  which  rests  the 
body  of  the  saint,  is  rich  in  marbles 
and  other  ornaments ;  the  baldacchino 
k  supported  by  four  precious  columns 
of  Oriental  **  bianco  **  and  **  nero  an- 
tico.**  The  tribwtjt  or  absis,  and  the 
arch  immediately  in  front  of  it,  are 
covered  with  mowaic*  of  the  sixth  cen- 
tury, in  the  highest  state  of  preserva- 
tion. The  upper  part  represents  the 
Transfiguration  ;  the  hand  of  the  Al- 
mighty is  seen  pointing  to  a  small 
figure  of  the  Saviour  introduced  into 
the  centre  of  a  large  cross,  surrounded 
by  a  blue  circle  studded  with  stars. 
On  the  top  of  the  cross  are  the  five 
Greek  letters  expressing  **  Jesus 
Christ,  the  Saviour,  the  Son  of  God." 
On  the  arms  are  the  Alpha  and  Omega ; 
and  at  the  foot  the  words  **  Salus 
Mundi.  '*    Outside  the  circle  are  Moses 


and  Elijah ;  and  below  are  three  sheep, 
indicating  the  three  apostles  —  Peter, 
James,  and  John.  In  the  middle  mo- 
saic is  St.  Apollinaris,  in  archiepis- 
copal  robes,  preaching  to  a  flock  of 
sheep,  a  common  symbol  of  a  Christian 


St.  Luke.  Under  the  high  altar  is 
the  ancient  tomb  of  St.  Apollinaris, 
now  damp  and  green  from  frequent 
inundations.  The  stone  book  by  the 
side  of  the  altar  is  called  the  breviary 
of  Gregory  the  Great. 

The  ancient  town  of  Classis,  of 
which  this  noble  basilica  is  the  re- 
presentative, was  one  of  the  three 
districts  of  Ravenna  in  the  time  of 
Augustus.  It  was,  as  its  name  im- 
ports, close  to  the  sea,  now  four  miles 
distant,  and  was  the  station  of  the 
Roman  fleet.  With  the  exception  of 
the  present  church,  the  town  was 
totally  destroyed  by  Luitprand,  king 
of  the  Lombards,  in  738. 

The  celebrated  Pineta,  or  Pine 
Forest,  is  approached  not  far  beyond 
the  basilica,  and  the  road  to  Rimini 
skirts  it  as  far  as  Cervia.  lliis 
venerable  forest,  the  most  ancient 
perhaps  in  Italy,  extends  along  the 
shores  of  the  Adriatic  for  a  distance  of 


twenty-five  miles,  from  the  Lamone 
north  of  Ravenna,  to  Cervia  on  the 
south,  and  covers  a  flat  sandy  tract, 
varying;  in  breadth  from  one  to  three 
miles.     It  affords  abundant  sporting ; 
and  the  produce  of  its  cones,  said  to 
congregation.      Between  the  windows  I  average  2000  rubbii  annually,  and  es- 
are  the  portraits  of  S.  Ecclesius,    S.    teemed   the  best   in    Italy,   yields   a 
Severus,  S.  Ursus,  and  S.  Uniicinus,  in  '  considerable  revenue.     It  wants,  how- 
pontifical  robes,  in  the  act  of  blessing  '  ever,  the  picturesque  appearance  of  a 
the  people.     On  the  left  wall  is  re-   deciduous  forest,  as  the  foliage  of  the 
presented    the    consecration    of    the  stune  pine  never  descends  low  enough 
church,  by  St.  Maximian ;  on  his  left ;  to  unite  with  the  low  bushes,  which 
stand  two  priests ;  and  on  his  right  occasionally  fill  up  the  vacant  spaces. 
the  Emperor  Justinian,  with  his  at-   No  forest  in  the  world  is  more  rc- 
tendants,  one  of  whom  is  supposed  to  i  nowned  in  classical  and  poetical  in- 
be  the  founder  of  the  church.     On  tcrcst*.  vt  is  ceWbxaX^^  V^'^  \^^tv\&^^vA- 
the   nght  wall  are   represented   the  caccio,  Dr^dew,  fliivdi  \Sn\oxv\  \N.  «v3J^- 
meriBcet  of  Abel,  ATeichisedek,   and  I  plied  Home  \w\\.Vv  XvmW  io\\\ct  ^vi^iV^' 
Abrubsm.     Oa<he  arch  in  a  series  of  i  and  uvou  iVie  \tw»\»  vi\i\t\x\\.  v^^^^' 


lUe  bwiner  of  Ve 

nice   fl 

>ated 

a  the 

dayi  of  her  miprenmcy. 
tlie  foreBt  still  retains  (he 
neab  rft-Arff,  from  a  f 
it  ii  the  ^iiut  where  Da 
meditate  .— 

adiUo 
nte  lo 

of  the 
that 
ed  tu 

Qiundu  EaU>  kI: 

Hi™ 

Boccaccio  made  the  PinclHlhe  scene 
of    his    rdngular   tdle    Nattagia   degli 

Ontili :  theinoidenls  of  which,  eadiug , 
in  the  anioraus  conversion  of  the  ladies  | 
oT  Raieiina,  have  been  made  fiiiniliar  , 
to  the  English  reader  by  Drj'den'a . 
adnptioiv  of  them,  in  hU  Theodore  and\ 

Honaria.      Count  Camba  reUlet  that ; 


nouTE  \%~Q>loHna  <fe'  Francesi.  [Sect.  I. 


CaloiKia  de-  Fraiuxs!.  Aliout  two 
miles  fram  Ravenna,  an  the  banks  of 
the  Ronco,  is  the  square  column  or 
liilaster,  erected  in  1SS7  by  Piotro 
Doiiato  Ccsi,  president  of  Ramagna, 
ai  a  memorial  of  the  battle  gained  by 
the  combined  army  of  Louis  XII,  and 
the  Duke  of  Ferrara,  over  the  troops 
of  Julitu  II.  and  the  King  of  Spain, 
April  II,  1913.  Four  inscriptions  on 
the  medallions  of  the  pilaster,  and  an 
equal  number  on  the  four  sides  of  the 
pedestal,  record  the  events  of  that 
memorable  day.  We  have  already  al- 
luded to  this  sanguinary  battle  in  a 
preceding  page.  Lord  Byron  mentiona 
the  engagement  and  the  column  in  a 
passage  quoted  in  the  description  of 
the  tomb  of  Dante,  and  commemorates 
the  untimely  die  of  the  heroic  Gaston 
dc  Foil,  who  lell  in  the  very  moment 
of  victory.  "  The  monument  of  such 
a  terrible  engagement,  which  left 
30,000  men  dead  on  the  field,  and 
made  the  Chevalier  Bayard  write  from 
the  spot :  'If  the  king  has  gained  the 
battle,  the  piwr  gentlemen  have  truly 
lost  it,'  is  little  funereal  or  military ;  it 
it  ornamented  with  elegant  arabesques 
of  vases,  fruit,  festoons,  dolphins,  and 
loaded  with  eight  long  tautological  in- 
scriptions, and  one  of  them  is  a  tsther 
ridiculous  jctt  (fenots.  The  speech  that 
Guicciordini  mokes  Gaston  address  to 
the  soldiers  on  the  bsnlis  of  the  Roneo, 
is  one  of  the  most  lauded  of  those 
pieces,  dilTusc  imitations  of  the  ha- 
rangues of  anaient  historians.  Besides 
the  illustrious  captains  present  at  this 
battle,  such  as  Pescario,  Fabrizio,  Co- 
lonna,  the  Marquis  della  Pallude,  the 
,  celebrated  engineer  Pedro  Navarra, 
'  taken  prisoners  by  the  French,  and 
I  Anne  de  Montmorency,  yet  a  youth, 
afterwards  constable  of  France  under 
four  kings,  who  began  hi*  long  dis- 
astrous military  career  amid  this  tri- 

were  there;  Leo  X,.  then  Cardinal 
de'  Medici  and  ]iapal  legate  to  the 
Spaniards,  was  taken  prisoner;  Castig- 
lione  and  Ariosto  were  present.  The 
bard  of  OtUnao,  -w^io  \ia%  aW-iiei  \.o 
|lhehorriblecain?£c\wwiUiwai;ift«'e. 


1 


Paptd  5ltofe».]    ROUTES  IS,  14*.— bologna  to  ancona.       108 


miut  !»▼«  been  powerfully  impressed 
byity  to  paint  his  battles  with  so  much 
fire.  In  several  passages  of  his  poem 
Arioeto  attributes  the  victory  on  this 
oeeauon  to  the  skill  and  courage  of 
the  Duke  of  Ferrara.  It  has  been 
sUted  that  Alfonso,  in  reply  to  an  ob- 
servation that  part  of  the  French 
army  was  as  much  exposed  to  his 
artillery  as  the  army  of  the  allies,  said 
to  lus  gunners,  in  the  heat  oi  the  con- 
flict, *  Fire  away  !  fear  no  mistake  — 
they  are  all  our  enemies !  *  Leo  X. 
redeemed  the  Turkish  horse  which  he 
rode  on  that  day,  and  used  it  in  the 
ceremony  of  his  potseiso  (taking  pos- 
session of  the  tiara  at  St.  John  La- 
teran),  celebrated  April  11,  1513,  the 
anniversary  of  the  battle.  He  had 
this  horse  carefully  tended  till  it  died, 
and  permitted  no  one  to  mount  it." — 
Falay. 


ROUTE  IS. 

KAVXKNA    TO    RIMINI. 

35  Miles. 

This  is  a  good  road,  although  not 
supplied  with  post  horses.  It  follows 
the  coast  of  the  Adriatic,  but  presents 
few  objects  of  picturesque  beauty,  and 
the  sea  is  generally  concealed  by  banks 
of  sand. 

The  first  portion  of  the  Route,  as 
far  as  S.  ApolUnare  in  Classe  and  the 
Pinetn,  has  been  described  in  the  ac- 
count of  that  magnificent  basilica  in 
a  previous  page.  After  passing  through 
the  Fincta  for  several  miles,  the  road 
crosses  the  Savio,  and  passes  through 
Cervia,  an  episcopal  town  of  1,150 
souls,  in  an  unhealthy  situation  close 
to  the  salt  works  upon  which  its  pros- 
perity  depends.       Farther   south   is  i 
CtMenatico,   a   town   of  about    4,000  , 
souls,  partly  surrounded  with  walls, 
but  presenting  no  object  of  any  in-  \ 
terest  to  detain  the  traveller.     It  is  ! 
about  half  way  between  Ravenna  and 
Jiimiai,   and  is  therefore   the    usual 
resting  place  of  the  vetturini. 


Beyond  this,  we  pass  some  small 
torrents  which  have  been  erroneously 
supposed  to  be  the  Rubicon.  Farther 
on,  at  the  distance  of  nine  miles  from 
Rimini,  near  San  Martino,  we  cross  a 
wooden  bridge  spanning  a  consider- 
able and  rapid  stream  flowing  into 
the  sea  from  Sant*  Arcangelo,  and 
called  by  the  country  people  on  the 
spot  //  Mttbicone.  The  reasons  for  re- 
garding this  as  the  Rubicon,  to  the 
exclusion  of  the  numerous  streams 
whose  pretensions  to  that  honour  have 
been  advocated  by  former  travellers, 
are  stated  at  length  in  the  next  Route. 

The  present  road  falls  into  the  high 
post  road  shortly  before  it  reaches  the 
Marecchia,  and  Rimini  is  entered  by 
the  Bridge  of  Augustus. 

35  miles,  Risuni  (Route  14.).  ^ 


ROUTE  14. 

BOLOGNA  TO  ANCONA,  BY  FORLI,  RIMINI, 
SAN    MARlNO,  AND    FANO. 


Bologna  to  S.  Niccolo 
S.  Niccolo  to  Imola 
Imola  to  Facnza 
Faenza  to  Forli 
Forli  to  Cesena 
Cesena  to  Savignano 
Savignano  to  Rimini 
Rimini  to  La  CattoUca    - 
La  CattoUca  to  Pesaro     - 
Pesaro  to  Fano 
Fano  to  La  Marotta 
La  Marotta  to  Sinigallia 
Sinigallia  to  Case  Bruciate 
Case  Bruciate  to  Ancona 


Milef. 
1 


k 


i 


15J 


Inns ;  Imola f  S.  INIarco  ;  La  Posta  ; 
Faenza^  Leone  d'Oro,  Corona;  Forli, 
I^a  Posta  ;  Cesena,  Posta  ;  Savignano, 
Postn,  Jiimini,  Posta;  Pesaro,  Villa 
di  Parma  ( Post)  La  Pace  ;  Fano,  II 
Moro,  Tre  Re ;  Sinigallia,  La  For- 
mica ;  Ancona,  Alhet^o  U.^^>  \a. 
Pace,  Gt«xv  Bte\A,'^«L. 

The  Toad  ^tom  "^Xo^^*.  vo  '^^;^'^ 
traveTses  yatl  oixVveaxv<iv*i\\\.V\a  U\u\Vu 

1  4 


5ot  kouteI*. — BOLOONA  TO  ANcoNA. — Imola.     fSect.  I, 

which  eitended  rram  Piscenia  to  Rl-  I  been  greatiy  overpraiied,  uid  u  small 
mini.  It  is  the  high  post  road,  and  pHblic  Library,  cuntaiiiing  the  cele- 
U  not  onlfpetfectly  level,  but  pursues  bisted  MS.  HEbrev  Bible  on  parcb- 
a  jlraight  lino  through  Imola  and  inert,  of  the  Ihiiteenth  century,  so 
Fiienza  to  the  walls  o(  Forli.  The  highly  praised  and  described  by  Car- 
country  through  which  it  ps'seaiarich!  dina!  Mezioranli,  and  an  Arabic  MS. 
aud  higlily  cultivated,  and  is  one  of  on  legislation  taken  by  Count  Sassa- 
tlie  most  productive  districts  in  the  telli  of  Imola  from  the  Turks,  and 
States  of  the  Church.  attributed  to  the  seventeenth  ceuiury. 

Leaving  Bologna,  the  road  crosses  '  The  Caihedral,  dedicated  to  S.  Cas- 
the  Savena  and  the  Idice  W^r).  and  ciano,  martyr,  contains  the  bodies  of 
proceeds  tlirough  the  village  of  S.  ,  that  saint,  and  of  St.  Peter  Cliry- 
Lozfaro,  tu  '  sologus,   the    eloquent   archbishop  of 

1}  S.  Niccold,  a  small  village  and  Jlavenna,  who  was  born  here  about 
post  station.  Between  this  and  Imola ;  a,  d.  400.  Imola  is  also  the  birthplace 
we  nasB  through  Caattl  S.  Fictro,   on    of  Vassalva,  the  celebrated  anatomist, 

'        -      ■-    •  ■    rn  here  in  1666.   The  bishopric  of 

loia  dates  from  4S2,  in  the  ponti. 


the  Sillaro  (SiVaru),  a  forlilied 
of  thb  middle  agca,  whose  castli 
built  by  tbe  Balognese  in  the 


ficate  of  Celestin  I. ;  S.  Comelii 
j  the  first  bishop.  Pius  VII.  wax 
ihop  of  ImuU  at  the  period  of  his 

The  works  of  Innoceniio  da  Iraola 


Ji  jnuHtt  (/fuf,  S.  Marco,  good: 
aF(Uta,dir[y.]  This  ancient  town 
-  -le  site  of  Forum  Cornelli, 
ated  on  the  Santemo,  the 
Ltreuus.  It  is  generally 
Dsidered  to  have  been  founded  by 
iG  Lombards  after  the  decline  of  the 
pire.  In  the  middle  ages, 
B,  poBition  between  the  Bolognese 
I  Honugna  made  it  an  important 


(F™ 


ks,  he 


Publico  eoutained  tv 

hia  hand,  but,   aa  L 

'cd  almost  entirely  in  Bologna,  ai 

probably  found  little  patronage  in  t 

city  of  bis  birth. 

[A  road  leads  from  Imola  to  B 
"  "    through  LugO|Eveposts(Rt>i 


vely  held  by  thi 
lerclsed  such  im. 


_      It  was  united  to  the  church 

fider  Julius  II.     As  Forum  Cornell 

~      le  of  the  aullons  of  the  Flam 

't  is  mentioned  by  Cicen 
i  by  Martial  in  the  following  lini 


^The  present  town,  which  t 
^ipuUl/on  of  9,700  souls,  cor 
/itt/e  to  detain  the  traveller.  Among 
'iib/ic  establishments  are  llie  Hos- 
a  Theatre  whose  architecture  hai 


I  this 


ei>  n 


^?V'.    ' 


veUen 


ng   Lago   will  find  it  the  more 
't  way  to  proceed  to  Faenza,  where 
they  will  find  a  shorter  and  eicellent 
■,ty  of  the  eiarchs  through 
Ltiug  country.   See  Route 


»■] 


sslho  Santemo 


Leaving  Imola,  we  pass  I 
by  D  handsome  bridge  of 
Etruction.  Midway  between  it  and 
Faenia  is  Castcl  Balognete,  so  called 
from  the  strong  fortress  built  there  by 
the  Bolognese  in  13S0.  It  was  sur- 
rounded with  walls  in  14S5,  and  iti 
1434  was  the  scene  of  the  decisive 
battle  between  the  Florentines  and 
the  army  of  the  Duke  of  Milan.  The 
war  of  that  year,  caubed  by  tile  admis- 
sion of  sMilanese  garrison  into  Imola, 
in  violation  of  a  solemn  treaty,  was 
completel)  wAfleA^i'j  ttia  Vituirj .  U 
tooV  place  OB  Itie  2Bt!Q  oS  \ieia\,ft« 


JhgMl  Staies.2    kt.  14?. — ^bologna  to  avcoha.^ Faemcu 


105 


being  commanded  by  Pieci- 
nuio»  and  the  Florentines  by  their 
general  Niccolo  di  Tolentino,  and 
Gattamelata,  the  Venetian  captain. 
The  army  of  the  Florentines,  amount- 
ing to  9,000  men,  were  completely 
overthrown;  Tolentino,  Orsini,  and 
Astorre  Manfredi  lord  of  Faenza,  were 
made  prisoners,  together  with  the  en- 
tire army,  with  the  exception  of  1 ,000 
horse ;  and  what  is  more  remarkable, 
only  four  were  left  dead  on  the  field, 
and  only  thirty  wounded.  The  results 
however  were  immediate,  and  peace 
on  a  more  permanent  footing  was  es- 
tablished in  the  following  year.  Be- 
yond Caste!  Bolognese,  the  Senio 
(  Sinmu)  is  crossed. 

1  Faknza  (/mh,  U  Leone  d'Oro, 
good  ;  La  Corona.)     This  city  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  ancient  Faventiot 
fiunous  in  the  history  of  the  civil  wars 
£uc  the  victory  of  Sylla  over  the  party 
of  Carbo.     It  is  situated  on  the  La- 
mone  {Anemo)^  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  ]  9,700  souls.     It  has  several 
fine  buildings,  and  is  built  in  the  form 
of  a  square,  divided  by  four  principal 
streets  which  meet  in  the  Piazza  pub- 
blica :  it   is   entirely   surrounded  by 
walls.    Faenza  is  memorable  in  Italian 
history  for  its  capture  and  sack  by  the 
celebrated     English   condottiere,    Sir 
John  I  lawk  wood,  of  Sible   Ileding- 
ham,  in  Essex,  then  in  the  service  of 
the  pope  (Gregory  XI.)  :  he  entered 
the   town  March  29,  1376,  and   de- 
livered it  up   to  a  frightful  military 
execution ;    4,000  persons,   says    Sis- 
mondi,  were  put  to  death,  and  their 
property  pillaged.  Among  the  masters 
under  whose   sovereignty  Faenza    fi- 
gures in  the  middle  ages,  the  Pagani 
will   not   fail   to  suggest   themselves 
to  the  reader  of  Dante.     The  divine 
poet,  in  the  beautiful  passage  figuring 
Macliinardo  Pagano  under  his  armo- 
rial bearings,  a  lion  azure  on  a  field 
argent,  says  in  reply  to  the  inquiry  of 
Guido  da  Montefeltro, 


I  ^  The  old  tradition  that  Faenza  takes 
its  name  from  Phaeton  is  alluded  to 
by  a  modem  poet,  who  unites  the  ac- 

;  complishments  of  a  scholar  with  the 
distinction  of  being  the  representative 
of  one  of  the  most  illustrious  families 
of  Bologna ; 

*'  Ecco  I'eccelsa 
Citt&  che  prese  nome  di  colui 
Chi  si  mal  carreggib  la  via  del  sole 
E  cadde  in  Val  di  Po." 

Count  Carlo  PepolCs  EremOy  canto  ii. 


**  La  rittd  di  Ijimone  e  di  Santcmo 
ronduce  il  Iconcel  dal  nido  bianco, 
i:ht  lautM  pMTte  daJlM  state  al  verno." 

/r\f.  xxvli. 


Faenza  is  supposed    to  have  been 
the   first    Italian   city   in    which  the 
manufacture  of  earthenware  was  in- 
troduced:   its  antiquity,   indeed,    as 
well  as  its  ancient  reputation  beyond 
the  Alps  are  proved  by  the  adoption 
of  the  name  faience  into  the  French 
language.       The    manufacture    still 
flourishes,  although  it  has  been  long 
surpassed  by  the  productions  of  the 
north :  the  imitation  of  Etruscan  vases 
is  now  pursued  in  these  factories  with 
I  success,  and  is  a  source  of  consider- 
able  profit.     Another  branch  of  in- 
I  dustry   inherited   by  the  inhabitants 
I  from  their  ancestors,  and  still  in  ope- 
I  ration,  is  the  spinning  and  weaving  of 
silk :  the  art  is  said  to  have  been  in- 
!  troduced  into  Faenza  by  two  monks 
I  on     their    return   from    India,     who 
'  erected  their  largest  spinning  machine 
i  here  in  1559.     The  enterprising  citi- 
:  zens  have   added  to    these  manufac- 
j  tories  a  large  paper-mill  situated  about 
three    miles   beyond  the  walls ;    and 
fhe  spirit  of  activity  thus  created,  ex- 
ercises a  most  beneficial  influence  not 
only  on  the  condition  of  the  people, 
but  on  the  wealth  and  character  ot 
the  town. 

The  Liceo,  or  College,  contains  some 
i  examples  of  Jacomone  of  Faenza,  an 
'  imitator  of  Raphael,  and  the  supposed 
I  painter  of  the  cupola  of  S.  Vitale  at 
I  Ravenna,  whose  birth  of  the  Virgin  in 
I  the  Domenican  Church  received  the 
I  praise  of  Lanzi. 

TIic  Cathedral  dedicated  to  S.  Cos- 
tanzo,  the  first  bishop  of  tlie  see,  a.  d. 
313,  is  remarkabWfox  \Vvt  t<t\ftViX^\.vt\Jw 
picture  of  l\ve  lloX^^'  ^ww\^  >a^  lau«v- 
cenz  10  da  Imola,  n«\ywvi\v  "Vaxav  ^^'s*  v 

¥  5 


166         JtovTt  J*--^?95P0NA  TO  ANcoNA.— Fflenifl.    [Sect.  L 


"qund™  Mapendo."  The  Capuchin 
C<inT«il  outside  the  town  has  b  fine 

picture  of  Ibe  Virgin  and  St.  John  Iif  | 
GhIJo,  which  was  deapalcliod  by  the 
Frenah  ta  the  Louvre,  but  it  fiirtu- 

lutely  only  peached  Milan,  and  was 

subsequently    restored.       Khgiiib   Iisi 

names  au  J  woiiLsare  interesting  Father 
as  supplying  connecting  links  in  the 
history  of  the  Italian  schools,  than 
for  any  remarkable  eminence  as  fol- 
loven  of  the  school  of  Rapbatl. 
AmuDg  these,  Latui  enumerates  Ja- 
iiomonet  mentioned  above,  whom  he 
iitenliliee  -with  Ciacomo  Bertucei ; 
Clulio  Tondiizi,  pupil  of  Giulio  Ro-  I 
mano,«ljo  painted  an  altarpiece  foe' 
the  eburch  of  St.  Stephen;  Antonio' 
da  Foenia ;  Figurino  da  Faenui,  iden- 
tified with  Mhic  Antonio  Itncchetti, 
another  pupil  of  Giulio  Romano ;  j 
MicGol5  Faeanelli,  Marco  Marchetti,  l 
M  JVIaroo  di  Faenza,  painter  of  the 
Uassacre  of  the  Innocents  in  the  Vati-  j 
can;  Giobatlista  Armenini.  author, 
of  "Vcri  Procettl  della  Pilturaj" 
NiceolA  Fappanelli,  who  painted  a 
St.  Mitrlin  for  the  cathedra),  "  si  be)  i 
conAotto,'*  says  Idnzi,  "  e  per  la  parte  i 
di  diaegno,  e  pel  forte  culorilo,  e 
per  la  espcessioae,  ch'  i  una  raara- ' 
vigiia."  In  addition  to  these  native 
painters,  Paeo^-i  claims  the  honour 
of  being  the  bjrihplaee  of  Torricelli,  I 
thecilcbrated^llosopher  andtnathe-j 


eation."  —  Dr.  Fraacr. 

The  Palario  CotMinale  was  formerly 
the  palace  of  the  Manfredi,  lords  of 
Faenza.  lu  middle  window,  covered 
with  irongrUing,  is  pointed  out  as  the 


■  of  tbos. 


niddle 


ecalls 


s  duril 


1  the 
;  the 
e  of 


Among  the  public  establis 
Paenaa,  tbi^ospilat  and  Lvi 

least,  the  professional  touris 
Hui^pjtal,  when  I  visited  it 


Its  of  i 


dy  dirty  and  ill-arranged  ; 
Lunatic    Asylum  was  under  the 


far  from  finding  there  the  pliilantliro- 
pie  impruKemehts .mentioned  by  some 
former  travellers^  J  witnessed  scenes 
tri/bia  its  walls  which  realized  all 
ifiase  humiliating  Jelails  respecting 
'I'c  iivatment  ofliinalica,  which  form 
'■/J  dark  a  page  ia  the  history  of  medi- 


Galeotto   Manftedi,   killed   by   I 

and  injured  Italian,  who  seeing  that 
he  was  getting  the  advantage  of  the 
four  assawins  site  had  concealed  under 
the  bed,  leaped  out  ofber  bed,  snatched 
up  a  ^vord  qnd  despatched  him,  a 
crime  wliiuh  renewed  and  surpassed 
at  the  end  of  the  fiHeeoth  oentury  the 
tragic  attempU  recounted  in  tlie  &!%- 
of  Dytenmeslra,  and  of  Roumond  H 
the  history  of  the  middle  ages^  Mfliili 
wrote  a  fine  tragedy  on  Caleollo  Mml- 
fredi.  The  wirgdow  of  the  ehanibei> 
that  witnessed  the  murder  may  atlll 
be  seeoi  tbe  marks  of  the  blood  are 
said  to  have  disappeared  within  these 
few  Tears  under  the  Italian  white- 
washing. Lorenia  de'  Medici  subse- 
quently interested  hims«lf  in  the  fate 
of  Krancesea,  kept  imprisoned  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Faenza,  and  obtaiaed 
her  release  ;  he  even  consented,  at  the 
prayer  of  her  &ther  Bentiinglio,  ta 
intercede  with  tbe  pope,  that  she 
mtgiit  be  relieved  from  ec«le«iBstieal 
censurea.  The  motive  that  Bentiio- 
glio  stated  to  Lorenzo,  in  persuading 
him  to  take  this  step,  may  seem 
strange  !  ht  intended  to  find  her  oaQtAic 
A  w6hikI  " —  fflfc/y. 

The  ZuiulTi   Canal,  so  called  from 
Signor  Scipione  ZanelU,  by  whom  it 

with  the  Adriatie.  It  begins  ;at  the 
PortA  Pia,  and  after  traversing  Ito. 
the  distance  of  ihirty-four 


!,  falls  1 


rgecf 


II  Fo  di  -Primaro,  at  S.  Alberto. 

About  four  miles  from  Faenza  t 
the  saline  springs  and  baths  of  .S 
Cli*ila/oro,  known  since  the  close 
the  fifteenth  cenWr^  ■,  ftniaxaii  ei\; 
I  difitanca  ftom  >iio  ta-sti  an:  v-tie  ^i 


called 


Jhqfol  Staies.2  koute  14. — bologna  to  ANC0NA.—/Twfi.  107 


ginous  springs  of  Ckiysa,  both  of 
which  are  held  in  high  repute  for  their 
medieiiial  properties. 

The  country  around  Faenza  is  not 
to  be  surpassed  in  richness  and  fer- 
tility :  it  was  praised  by  Pliny,  Varro, 
and  Columella,  and  is  still  the  theme 
oi  every  traveller. 

[An  excellent  road,  not  yet  made  a 
post  road,  leads  from  Faenza  to  Ra- 
venna, distant  about  twenty- four 
miles.     Route  10.] 

Leaving  Faenza,  the  Lamone  is 
crossed,  and  the  road  proceeds  along 
the  plain,  passing  the  Montone  (  Utens) 
between  it  and  Forli.  This  stream 
divides  the  Legation  of  Ravenna  from 
that  of  Forll,  and  after  uniting  with 
the  Ronco  {B&iesia)  below  the  city, 
frlls  into  the  Adriatic  near  Ravenna. 

1  FoAU  (^Inrif  La  Posta,  good). 
Tbm  city,  situated  at  the  foot  of  tlie 
Apennines,  in  a  pleasant  and  fertile 
plain  watered  by  the  Ronco  and  Mon- 
tone, is  the  capital  of  a  legation  com- 
prehending 100  square  leagues  and 
194,399  inhabitants.  The  city  itself, 
by  the  census  of  1 833,  contains  a  po- 
pulation of  15,600  souls,  and  is  the 
residence  of  the  cardinal  legate.  It  is 
said  to  occupy  the  site  of  Forum  Liviiy 
founded  by  Livius  Salinator  afler  the 
defeat  of  Asdrubal.  During  the  middle 
ages  it  was  a  place  of  some  importance 
as  a  free  city,  but  it  at  length  fell  into 
the  power  of  the  Malatesta  and  Ordc- 
lafli.  This  illustrious  family,  whose 
name  was  so  well  known  from  the 
end  of  the  thirteenth  to  the  beginning 
of  the  sixteentli  century  as  princes  of 
Forli,  became  extinct  in  the  person  of 
Luigi  Ordelaffi,  who  died  in  exile  at 
Venice  about  1 504,  after  having  in  vain 
offered  to  .sell  the  principality  to  that 
republic.  Forli  was  attached  to  the 
church  almost  immediately  after  that 
event  by  Pope  Julius  II.  The  Orde- 
laffi are  mentitmed  by  Dante  under 
the  figure  of  the  green  lion  borne  on 
their  coats  of  arms, in  a  fine  pasNage 
containing  an  allusion  to  the  defeat  of 
the  Frencli  anny  at  Foril  by  Guido 
da  Alonte^'Jtro : 


**  La  terra,  che  fe'  gik  la  lunga  prova, 
£  di  Franceschi  sanguinoso  mucchio, 
Sotto  le  brancbe  verdi  si  ritrova." 

Inf.  xxvli.    ' 

It  is  a  handsome  and  finely  built 
city  ;  its  architecture,  particularly  in 
many  of  the  private  palaces,  is  remark- 
ably imposing :  the  Palazzo  Guerini, 
built  after  the  designs  of  Michael  An- 
gelo,  the  Palazzo  Comunale,  and  the 
Monte  di  Pieta  may  be  more  especially 
mentioned  among  its  best  public  edi- 
fices. It  has  a  circus  for  the  game  of 
paUonCt  and  a  public  garden. 

27ic  Cathedral  of  Santa  Croce  is  cele- 
brated for  the  chapel  of  the  Madonna 
del  Fuoco,  the  cupola  of  which  was 
painted  by  Carlo  Cignani  after  &  labour 
of  twenty  years,  pursued  with  such  un- 
tiring interest  that  it  was  necessary  to 
commence  the  removal  of  the  scaffold- 
ing before  he  would  complete  it.  **  He 
passed,"  says  Lanzi,  "  the  last  years 
of  his  long  life  at  Forli,  where  he  esta- 
blished his  family  and  left  the  grandest 
monument  of  his  genius  in  that  fine 
cupola,  which    is   perhaps   the   mo&t 
remarkable  work   of  art   which   the 
eigiitecnth  century  produced.      The 
subject,  like  that  in  the  cathedral  of 
Parma,    is    the    Assumption    of  the 
Virgin  ;  and  here,  as  there,  is  painted 
a   true  paradise,  which   is  loved   the 
more   it  is  contemplated.     He  spent 
twenty  years  on    his   work,   visiting 
Ravenna  from  time  to  time  to  consult 
I  the  cupola  of  Guido,  from  which  he 
j  borrowed   the   fine    St.  Michael   and 
I  some  other  ideas.     They  say  that  they 
I  removed  the   scaffolding   against  his 
,  will,  as  he  never  made  an  end  of  re- 
;  touching  and  finishing  his  work  in  his 
[  accustomed  style  of  excellence."     A 
ciborlum  in  this  cathedral  is  shown  as 
^  the  design  of  Michael  Angelo,  with  a 
reliquiary  of  carved    and    enamelled 
;  work  of  the  fourteenth  century,  suj)- 
I)osed  with  great  probability  to  be  the 
work   of  German  artists.     The  mag- 
nificent door  of  the  grand  entrance  is 
ornamented  in  the  same  style  as  that 
of  Uimuu,  "w'UVx  ^^cxA^Vwwis  ^yA  \i^a»- 

\      TVic  Church  of  S.  FWiviw  ^«*^  ^^^^ 


RonTE  14. — BOLOOKA  TO  aucona Forll     [|Sect.r. 


by  Curh  Maralla,  considered  by  Lanzi 
tu  be  one  of  his  most  cu-efully  studied 
varka  -,  a  S.  Giuseppe,  by  Ciffnani  j 
and  two  Gae  works,  by  Guireiao  — 
the  Chriit,  and  the  Aanuncintion,  in  i 
which  tbc  angel  IB  represented  as 
receiving  the  commands  of  the  Al-  j 
mighty.  , 

Tlie  Church  of  S.  Girolamo  contains 
the  superb  picture  of  tbe  Conceplion, ' 
one  of  the  raaslerpiecBs  of  Gsido ;  it 
represents  the  Madonna  surrounded 
by  a  cloud  of  angels.  This  cburch 
contains  the  tomb  of  Giobattista 
MorgagDi,  the  celebrated  analomiBt, 
and  the  mnusoleiim  of  Barhara  Orde- 
IafH(HG6).  The  chapel  adjoining  is 
said  tu  be  by  Mantegna. 

The  Church  of  S.  M>:rcuriaU,  dedi-  ' 
CBted  to  the  first  bishop  of  Forll,  and 
belonging  to  the  monks  of  Vallora- 
brosa,  contains  the  chapel  de'  Ferri, 
which  bas  a  beautiful  painting  by  ^- 
RUOTiita  da  Imola,  and  is  decorated 
with  fine  sculptures  of  1536.  The 
campanile  is  remarkable  for  its  archi- 
tecture and  great  height.  There  arc 
'    '        picturw    by   Mareo 


now  nearly  destroyed,  aiiJ  in  a  few 
years  will  not  be  even  trainable. 

Forll  has  a  very  dne  pia/ia,  a  uni- 
versity, and  nuuieraus  wealthy  pa- 
laces. The  Falaiia  Comunah  has  ■ 
6tie  bust  by  DeBiderio  da  Settignano ; 
and  in  the  Casa  Manioni  is  a  repeti- 
tion of  the  Daiizatrice  of  Canovii. 
Cornelius  Galtus  the  poet,  Flavia 
Biondi  tiie  historian,  and  Morgagni 

already  noticed,  were  natives  of  this 

lie  Cilailel  was  founded  by  Cardinal 
Albornoz  in  tSBl,  and  enlarged  by  the 
Ordelaffl  »nd  Riarii  under  Innwent 
VI.!  it  isnow  usedasa  prison.    fl||» 


associations  of  the ' 
fifteenth  century 
Forll  and   Rimini  was  <N 
rolamo  Kiario  the  nephew. 


IV. 


Polmtpiani, 
ITlo  hou; 


still  e 


adjoining  the   Sprsi 


Meloi» 


7  frescoes  with  which 
adorned  by  the  famous 
rIL  This  celebrated 
painter  and  mathematician,  called  by 
his  contemporaries  the  "  splendour  of 
all   Italy,"   and    ranked  by    Faccloli    . 


WHS  one  of  the  chief  ac  .     . 

spiracy  of  the  Paizi,  and  had  marriad' 
Catherine  Sforza,  the  natural  daughter 
of  Gian  Galeaim,  an  alliance  by 
which  he  secured  the  powerful  protec- 
tion of  the  house  of  Sforza.  His  ene- 
mies did  not  venture  to  attack  openly 
a  prince  so  protected ;  but  at  the  in- 
stigation it  is  said  of  Lorenio  de' 
Medici,  the  captain  of  his  guard  and 

while  at  dinner  in  his  palace  of  ForlL 

The  conspiratora  threw  the  body  out 

of   the    window,    and   the   populace 

■agged  it  round  the  »  "        "-      ■ 


aughtsir 


L  of  his  til 


e  of  the 

city ;  and  he   is   supposed    by  many 

del  I  a  Francesco,  from  whom  probably 
his  mathematical  knowledge  was  de- 
rived. Lnuzi,  describing  these  fres- 
coes, says  he  covered  "  the  front  of  a 
tpettria  with  arabesques  of  the  best 
style,  and  over  the  entrance  a  half 
figure  remarkably  well  paint'.;d,  in  the 
""of  pom ■ 


It  these  t 
?r  iiave 


s  of 


arefally  preeayed  :   they   i 


iurgen 
children 


ceded  t< 


mand  the  keys  of  the 
but  the  commander  reliised 
to  surrender  unless  ordered  to  do  so  by 
Catherine  Sfona  herself  The  con- 
spirators accordingly  allowed  her  to 
enter  the  gates,  retaining  her  childrao 
as  hostages  for  her  return;  but  she 
had  no  sooner  passed  within  the  walls, 
than  she  gave  orders  to  fire  on  the 
besiegers.  When  they  threaleSed  lo 
resent  this  by  inflicting  summary  ven- 
geance on  her  children,  she  mounted 
the  ramuatls  beWeew  ftie  ^atas  of 
Cesena.  and  Baisisi^  u^  evdamA&.-. 


JPepal Siaies.']B,l^''^BOLOGVik  to  ancona. — Farlimpopoli,  109 


**  Si  T011S  let  tueiy  j'ai  un  61s  4  Imola, 
j*en  porte  un  autre  dans  mon  sein,  qui 
grmndiront  pour  Stre  les  vengeurs  d*un 
aembUble  crime.**  The  populace,  iu- 
tiinidated  by  her  courage,  did  not  ex- 
ecute their  threat,  and  the  house  of 
Sfona  shortly  afterwards  avenged  the 
indignities  she  had  suffered.  In  1499, 
Catherine  again  defended  Forli  against 
the  combined  forces  of  France  and  the 
Cliurch  under  Cesar  Borgia  and  Ives 
d'Allegre ;  but  after  an  heroic  strug- 
gle, in  which  she  is  described  as  con- 
testingevery  inch  of  ground,  retreating 
oefore  her  assailants  from  tower  to 
tower,  she  was  captured  and  sent  a 
priKner  to  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo. 
Jfaehiavelli,  although  the  counsellor 
af  the  alliance  with  Borgia,  celebrates 
the  **  magiMnimous  resolution  **  of  this 
•  jiyiarlrahle  woman,  and  her  conduct  is 
.  JMMded  with  admiration  by  most  of 
'  -UMb  contemporary  historians. 
'.  [A  road  leads  from  Forli  along  the 
■  left  bank  of  the  Ronco  to  Ravenna, 
about  twenty  miles  distant  (  Route  9); 
and  there  is  an  excellent  road  across 
the  Apennines  to  Florence,  Route  8.] 
The  road  to  Rimini  crosses  the 
Ronco  soon  after  leaving  Forli,  and  is 
generally  in  excellent  order,  being 
constructed  on  the  ancient  Via  Emilia 
thoughout  its  entire  course. 

Beyond  Forli  is  the  small  town  of 
JForlimpopoli,  with  a  population  of 
4,000,  which  almost  retains  its  ancient 
name  of  Forum  Popilii.  It  was  ruined 
by  Grimoaldo,  king  of  the  Lombards, 
in  700  ;  and  after  being  restored,  was 
again  deprived  of  its  consequence  by 
the  cardinal  legate  in  1370,  who  re- 
moved the  seat  of  his  government  to 
Bertinoro,  llie  latter  town  is  placed 
on  a  hill,  whose  slopes  are  famous  for 
their  wines.  It  was  one  of  the  ancient 
fiefs  of  the  Malatesta,  by  whom  it  was 
given  to  the  church.  Under  Alex- 
ander VI.  it  became  the  property  of 
Cesar  Borgia,  'llie  town  of  Polenta 
near  it  gave  rise  to  the  eminent  family 
of  Polentani  at  Rimini. 

In  the  war  of  1815,  nearly  all  the 

towns  of  this  coast  became  the  scenes 

Wweil-fought  battles  between  Murat 


and  the  allies.  Forlimpopoli  wit- 
nessed one  of  the  first  of  these  con- 
tests. The  imperial  troops,  on  the 
21st  April,  under  Geppert  and  Neip- 
perg,  crossed  the  Ronco  and  drove 
Murat  from  his  position  near  Forlim- 
popoli, whUe  another  detachment  was 
at  the  same  time  driven  from  Polenta. 
The  different  towns  of  Romagna  suc- 
cessively fell  into  the  hands  of  Austria, 
and  the  history  of  the  war  is  a  series 
of  struggles  for  the  possession  of  the 
strong  positions  of  the  country,  until 
the  decisive  battle  of  Tolentino  drove 
the  Neapolitans  beyond  the  States. 

After  passing  the  torrents  Avusa, 
Bevano,  Bevanella,  and  Aria,  the  river 
Savio  (Sapis)  is  crossed  close  under 
the  walls  of  Cesena  by  a  fine  bridge 
constructed  of  Istrian  marble  by  Cle- 
ment VIII.,  and  lately  restored. 

1^  Cesena  (/»»,  Posta,  called  also 
Leone  Bianco,  civil,  but  dirty),  still 
retaining  the  name  of  the  last  town  of 
Cisalpine  Gaul  on  the  Emilian  way.  It 
is  a  neat  town  of  8,000  inhabitants, 
prettily  situated  in  an  agreeable  and 
fertile  country,  on  the  slopes  of  a  hill 
overlooking  the  road,  and  washed  by 
the  Savio.  This  description  of  its 
position  will  not  fail  to  recall  to  the 
Italian  scholar  the  lines  of  Dante : 

'*  £  quella,  a  cui  il  Savio  l>agna  il  fianco, 
Cosi  com'  ella  sie'  tra  il  piano  e  il  monte, 
Tra  tiraDnia  si  vive  e  stato  franco." 

Inf.  xxvlL 

The  Palazzo  Pubblico  in  the  great 
piazza  is  a  fine  building,  and  is  orna- 
mented with  a  statue  of  Pius  VI.,  who 
was  a  native  of  the  town,  as  was  also 
his  successor  Pius  VII.  In  the  inte- 
rior of  the  palace  is  a  remarkable 
picture  of  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  by 
Francesco  Francia,  The  Capuchin 
Church  contains  a  fine  work  of  Guer- 
cino.  The  principal  object  of  interest 
in  Cesena  is  the  Library,  founded  by 
Domenico  Malatesta  Novello,  brother 
of  Sigismund  lord  of  Rimini,  in  1452, 
and  composed  of  4000  MSS.,  which, 
like  those  of  the  Laurentian  at  Flo- 
rence, arc  cV\a\ive<\,\.o\\v«^'^^<&.  \^kk^ 
of  them  wcte  ei^cwX-t^  Xi"^  ot^^t  ^^ 


rsTtf 


KOtTTE  14. — BOLOGXA  TO  ASCONA. — Cbe/iff.      [Sect.  T, 

rioiu  MSS.  In  (lie  col  I  eel  [on  tal  en  fur  tlio  nulLcon,  arc  rrossed; 
mrt  the  Elyroologiea  of  8.  Isidore,  of  and  between  Cesena  and  Savigoano 
lite  eighth  or  ninth  cenlurj'.  It  was  j  by  the  roadside  stands  a  column  in- 
in  this  library  that  Faulus  Msnutjus  scribed  wilh  ■  Smatui-CotmUiim,  de- 
ithut  himself  up  far  a  considerable  time  |  nonncing  ea  sacrilegious  any  one  who 
to  collect  materials  for  hi&  editions.  |  should  preeume  to  cross  Ihe  Rubicon 
The  estahlishment  was  founded  by  with  a  legion,  army,  or  coliart.  It 
Mai  Meita,  when  that  illustrious  warrior  ^  was  considered  authentic  by  Montea- 
returned  to  Ccsena  severely  wounded^ '  quieu,  hut  no  doubt  is  now  entertained 
imd    was  bequeathed  by   him  to  the   that  it  is  apocryphal.      Beyond  it  tbe 

golden  ducats.  |  a    remarkable    Haman   work    of  the 

Cesena  is  one  of  the  earliest  Italian  consular  period,  built  oT  Iraiertine, 
bishopries,  the  first  bishop,  St.  Phile-  land  little  noticed  by  travellers.  The 
nuin,  having  been  appointed  i.  d.  99, 'small  stream  which  flows  under  it, 
under  St.  Clement  I.  In  tbe  turbu-  '  the  Fiumicino,  or  Savignano  (for  it  is 
lent  pontificate  of  Gregory  XI.  the 'called  indifferently  by  both  names), 
town  was  ferociously  pillaged  by  tbe ,  has  had  almost  bs  many  belieTcis  as 
infamous  cardinal  legate  Hubert  of ,  the  Pisatello  that  it  is  the  true  lepre- 
CenevB,  whom  the  pope  sent  into  |seotative  of  the  llubiiton,  the  cele* 
Italy  from  Avignon  with  a  Breton  brated  line  of  separation  between  ui- 
eompanjF  of  adventurers.  He  entered  i  cient  Italy  and  Cisalpina  Gaul.  It 
Ceseno,  February  I,  ISTT,  and  ordered  unites  with  the  Rugoneand  FisateSo, 
all  ihe  inhabitants  to  be  massacred,  jand  tidlB  into  the  Adriatic  at  Due. 
Sismondi  says  that  he  was  heard  to  |  Uocche.  Dr.  Cramer  thought  that 
call   out    during    the    fearful    scene,  f  these  united  streams,  which  are  here 


1 


■■  I  will  hove  mori 

blood  !  Kiil  all  1 

knovn  as   iba  Fiumicino,  must   be 

Blood  I  blood  I" 

About  a  mile  f 

om   Cesena,  on  a 

shall  presently  arrive  atone  which  has 

much  more  claim  than  eiiher  of  these 

,^liurch  of  Sanin  M 

ria  del  Monte,  the 

to  the  title  of  Rubicon. 

reputed    work    of 

Bramante,    where 

1   SasismunD,  a  fine  country  town  of 

many  urns  and  oth 

fjund.      Pius  VII. 

took  the  vows  as 

u  Benedictine  monk  in  the  adjoining 
monastery,  and  was  long  known  there 
as  the  Padre  Chiaramontc. 

A  few  miles  south  of  Cesena  are 
the  sulphur  mines,  which  in  a  great 
measure  supply  the  sulphuric  acid 
works  of  Bologna,  and  the  sulphur 
refinery  at  Rimini.  The  sulphur  is 
beautifully  crystallised,  and  is  im- 
bedded in  the  tertiary  marine  marls. 
Hie  mines  of  the  whole  district  be- 

that  double    the   qi 


might 


isily    be 


Large    i 

Ihe  trade  is  rapidly  int 

tbe  management  of  Coui 


eiported, 


ined. 


lairing  Ceseua,  the  little 


of  Campilum  fia  jEmiHic ;  but 
many  antiquaries  are  disposed  to  place 
that  ancient  town  at  Longiano,  a  vil- 
lage a  few  miles  farther  inland,  where 


;avaliere  Borghesi 


■an  Marino  was  considered  a  public 
xs.  The  town  was  fortified  iii  135 
uring  tbe  pontificate  of  Innocent  VI. 
A  few  miles  beyond  this  place,  be. 
ire  arriving  at  the  town  of  Sant'  Arc- 
elo,  the  road  crosses  hy  a  Roman 


iridge  a 


-s  Rugoae  and  Piaatello,  often  mis-  j  ing 


isiderab:e  i 


IS  commeM&t'j  oil  xixe  ^^b- 


Pepal  Sdtietr^  R- 14. — bologna  to  ancona. — TheRubkan.  Ill 

culationt  of  travellers.     It  flows  di-   flowing  direct   to   the   Adriatic,  re* 
rectly  into  the  Adriatic,  after  a  course   ceiving   some  minor  torrents  in   its 


of  about  twenty-five  miles  from  its 
source  between  Monte  Tifli  and  Sar- 
sina,  rising  about  midway  between  the 


course,  and  becoming  an  ample  stream 
at  the  embouchure,  course  about 
twenty-five  miles.     In  regard  to  the 


Savio  and  the  Marecohia,  and  running  i  first  three,  no  doubt  can  exist  on  the 
parallel  to  the  latter  river  for  several '  mind  of  any  one  who  is  acquainted 
miles.  At  its  mouth  it  is  a  powerful  j  with  the  country  that  the  names  of 
and  copious  stream,'  and  if  its  course  |  the  different  streams  have  been  indis- 
be  carefully  examined,  the  traveller  j  criminately  applied  first  to  one  stream 
can  hardly  avoid  arriving  at  the  con- ;  and  then  to  another,  producing  great 
elusion  that  it  is  more  likely  to  have  confusion,  and  calculated  to  mislead 
formed  a  boundary  than  any  of  the  |  the  traveller  even  more  than  the  spu- 
others  he  has  passed.  It  is  moreover  ,  rlous  inscriptions  already  noticed. 
laid  down  as  the  Hubioon  in  the  mi-  I  We  enter  Rimini  on  this  side  by  the 
nute  custom-house  map  lately  pub-  '  noble  Bridge  of  Augustus,  erected  over 
lished  for  official  purposes  by  the  :  the  Marecchia,  the  ancient  Ariminus, 
papal  government,  and  in  the  un-  !  more  than  eighteen  centuries  ago,  and 
rivalled  map  of  Tuscany  and  its  fron-  still  one  of  the  best  preserved  monu- 
tiers  by  the  celebrated  Padre  Inghi-  '  ments  of  Italy.  It  was  begun  by 
rami.  A  still  more  decisive  proof  is  the  :  Augustus,  and  finished  by  Tiberius ;  it 
&ct  that  the  peasantry,  who  can  have  has  five  arches,  and  is  constructed  en- 
no  interest  in  upholding  the  theories  of '  tirely  of  white  marble.  The  principal 
travellers,  give  it  the  name  of  II  Ru-  '  arches  havca  span  of  twenty-seven  feet, 
bicone.  From  all  these  circumstances,  and  the  thickness  of  the  piers  is  nearly 
and  from  an  attentive  examination  of  thirteen  feet.  The  inscriptions  on  it 
the  ground,  we  are  disposed  not  only  and  the  lituus  are  scarcely  to  be  traced, 
to  pronounce  this  stream  to  be  the  but  a  copy  is  preserved  on  a  tablet 
Rubicon,  but  to  entertain  surprise  under  the  Porta  S.  Giuliano.  The 
that  its  claims  have  been  so  much  river  at  this  point  separates  Romagna 
overlooked  by  former  tourists,  who  from  the  ancient  province  of  Pentapolis; 
were  probably  misled  by  the  inscrip-  and  the  Via  Emilia  from  Piacenza  and 
tions  which  Gruter  detected  to  be  a  |  Bolonga  here  falls  into  the  Via  Fla- 
fabrication  of  the  antiquaries  of  Ce-  minia.  This  bridge  was  the  scene  of  a 
sena.  It  will,  perhaps,  be  useful  to  [  sanguinary  contest  between  the  Aus- 
givc  a  summary  of  the  several  streams  trian  grenadiers  and  the  revolutionists 
between  Cesena  and  Rimini,  which  :  in  the  last  outbreak  of  Romagna ;  and 
have  been  considered  the  Rubicon,  in  '  many  lives  were  lost  before  the  troops 
order  that  travellers  may  prosecute  succeeded  in  forcing  the  bridge, 
the  investigation  for  themselves.  1st,!  1  Ri^ii^'i  {Inns,  Posta,  dear  and 
the  Rugone,  rising  near  Roversano '  dirty,  but  otherwise  good ;  Tre  Re), 
and  Serrivoli,  and  flowing  under  Rufilo  '  an  interesting  episcopal  city  of  9,500, 
into  the  Adriatic,  course  about  eighteen  '  souls,  situated  in  a  rich  plain  be- 
miles ;  2nd,  the  Pisatello,  rising  near  twecn  the  jVIarccchia  and  the  Ansa. 
iVIonte  Leone,  and  uniting  with  the  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Rugone  shortly  Injfore  it  falls  into  the  ^  Umbrian  city  of  Ariminum.  It  be- 
sea,  c<Hirse  about  sixteen  miles ;  Srd,  came  early  a  Roman  colony,  and 
the  Savignano  or  Fiumicino,  rising  was  patronized  and  cmbellishod  by 
near  S.>gliano,  and  joining  the  two  Ca»sar,  Augustus,  and  many  of  their 
streams  just  mentioned  before  their  successors.  During  the  Greek  rule 
junction  with  the  sea,  course  about  it  was  the  most  northern  of  the  five 
sixteen  miles;  4lh,  the  Rubicone,  cities  which  ^ANtt  Xo«k,\\vi\Avi,\\a.Y».\.Q\^^Ckft 
rising  close  to  the  Tuscan  frontier,  emperor  ot  Cotvs\AW\\wa^vi  >X\'ii  ^v^^  «!^ 
between  Monte  Tim  and  Sarsiiia,  and   **  ExarcYi   ot  lYxft  Y^wVa-v^i^v^.^"'     '^"^^ 


i 


KOCTE  14. — BOIOG 

governed  by    this  oiarch 
li,  Fcsari^  Fano,  Sinigallia, 
Ancona:    hia  jnrisdiclion    camp 
nearly  all  tUat  ponion  of  the  shoe 
the  Adriatic  now  called  Romagna 


e  Maid 


Then 


more  inland  Pentspolis,  froin  vhich 
this  was  ofteD  disliuguishEd  by  the  epi- 
thet "maritiroa,"  lu  1200,  when  Ri- 
mini helonged  10  the  CermaD  Empire, 
Otho  111.  sent  inio  the  March  as  his 
TJceroy  Maleatata,  the  ancestor  of  that 
iUustriaus  Ikmily  to  which  Rimini  is 
indebted  for  its  subeeqi 


His  d 


t   Galco 


lord  of  Rimini  by  Clement  VI.  It 
poBsed  from  the  bmily  to  the  Vene- 
tiaus  by  sale,  and  became  the  property 
□fthepopesttbe  battle  of  Gerad'Adda. 
The  Malatettaoften  endeavoured  10  re- 
gain it,  but  the  treaty  of  TolenEino  and 
the  Congress  of  Vienna  confirmed  it  to 
Ibe  church.  The  name  of  Malatesla 
Tccalli  the  line  passage  of  tlie  Inferno, 


TO  ANcoKA. — Rimiiti.    fSect.  I. 

than  the  breadth  of  the  arch  ;  a  great 
part  however  of  the  siiperatrueture  is 
evidently  later  than  the  time  of  Au- 

charged  with  its  defoimilles. 

The  great  atlraclion  of  the  town  is 
the  dnmh  of  S.  Franretro,  now  the 
cathedral.  Til  is  noble  edifice,  originally 
built  in  the  fourteenth  century  in  the 
Italian. Gotbic  style,  was  remodelled 

FandoKb  Malatesta,  from  ihe  designs  of 
I^anBattistaAlbcrti.abent  the  middle 
□f  the  fifteenth  century.  It  is  the 
master-piece  of  the  great  Florentine, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  links 
in  the  history  of  atl,  since  the  effijrt 
here  made  by  Albi 


il  oftb 


ical  style 


Tbe 


old  mastiff: " 


JV.» 


The  famous  council  of  359,  bi 
the  Arians  and  Athanasians,  wi 

The  principal  object  of  class) 
tetest  at  Rimini,  after  the  bridge  of  j 
Augustus,  is  the  Trufvipkid  Arch  of\ 
Augntita,  now  the  Porta  Romano, 
through  which  the  post  road  to  Rome  \ 
passes.  It  is  one  of  the  most  remark  ■  [ 
able  nioimments  on  the  east  coast  of, 
Italy,  surpassing  tbe  arches  of  Rome  < 
in  size,  and  is  built,  like  the  bridge,  of 
white  marble.  It  watereeted  in  honour 
of  Augustus,  and  commemorates  the 
gratitude  of  the  inhabitants  fbtthe  re- 
pairing of  Lhiirroadi,  Its  architauCure 
is  timple  and  masHTe,  with  two  Corin- 
thian columns  on  each  side;  between 
the  arch  and  the  columns  art 
lions,  with  the  heads  of  Nepti 
Venus  oil  the  ode  side,  and  Jupiter  and  I 
Mlnvn:a  on  the  other.  The  pedicneol 
'^••iireioQly small,  being- scnrcely  larger 


tVont,  consisting  of 
three  arches,  is  unfinished,  but  the  side 
is  masked  by  a  Hries  of  seven  grand 
and  simple  arches  on  panelled  piers 
detached  from  the  wall  of  the  church, 

and   concealing  vithout  altering  the 

cealment  of  pointed  windows  by  clas- 
sical ornaments,  the  genius  of  Aiberti, 
that  great  restorer  of  Roman  architec- 
ture, may  be  studied  and  appreciated 
betWr  than  in  any  other  place,  llie 
whole  building  '  .... 


(ofti; 


land  tl 


■alli- 


but  the  most  striking  and  fre- 
quent of  these  ornaments  ore  tbe  rose 
and  elephant,  and  the  united  ciphers  of 
Si|;ismund  and  his  wife  Isotta.  Under 
tbe  arches  above  mentioned  on  the  side 
of  the  building,  are  seven  large  sarco- 


phag 


deposited  the  ashes  of  tbe  great  men  . 
whom  Malatesta  had  collected  around 
I  him,  poets,  orators,  philosophers,  and 
captains.  TliecfTect  produced  by  these 
tombs  isDSgrandastbcidea  of  making 
them  an  ornament  to  bis  church  was 
!  generous  and  noble.  The  interior  re- 
I  fains  nothing  more  of  its  original  ar- 
chitecture than  the  pointed  arches  of 
tbe  nave,  but  it  Is  tiill  of  interesting 
memorit^  of  the  'U&\&lesta  family. 


P^yml  States,^  R^-  14- — bologka  to  ancona. — Riminu     113 


many  of  which  are  of  extraordinary 
beauty :  as  works  of  art  these  sculp- 
tures deserve  atteative  study.  The  ele- 
phants of  the  first  chapel  which  sup- 
p<Hrt  the  elaborately  worked  arch  give 
an  Oriental  character  to  the  building. 
Among  the  sarcophagi,  those  of  Sigis- 
round  himself,  of  his  &vourite  wife 
Isotta  (dated  1450),  of  his  brother 
''olifn  principi  nunc  protectori,**  his 
stepson  (1468),  and  the  illustrious  fe- 
males of  the  house  "  Malatestorum 
domus  heroidum  sepulcrum,'*  are  the 
most  remarkable;  that  of  Sigismund 
is  dated  1468,  and  is  perhaps  the  finest 
in  taste  and  execution.  The  bronze 
fruits  and  flowers  on  the  columns  of 
tiie  chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramento  are 
supposed  to  be  by  Ghiberti  (?) ;  the 
tiiree  bas-reliefs  are  erroneously  con- 
sidered by  some  to  be  of  Grecian 
workmanship. 

Many  of  the  other  churches  of  Ri- 
mini deserve  a  visit ;  the  Church  of  S. 
GiuliaHO  contains  a  superb  altarpiece, 
representing  the  martyrdom  of  St  Ju- 
lian, by  Paolo  Veronese^  and  a  curious 
early  picture  of  the  life  of  that  saint 
in  compartments  by  Lattanzio  delta 
Marea,  dated  1357.  The  church  of  S, 
Girolamo  has  a  fine  painting  of  the 
Saint  by  Guercino;  the  chapel  is  painted 
by  iVoii«,  and  round  the  choir  are  small 
pictures  in  bistre  representing  the  his- 
tory or  the  Saviour.  Rimini  was  made 
a  bishopric  a.  d.  260 ;  its  first  prelate 
is  supposed  to  have  been  S.Gaudenzio. 
At  the  Capuccini  are  the  reputed  ruins 
of  the  amphitheatre  of  Publius  Sem- 
pronius,  but  there  are  no  good  grounds 
for  the  belief. 

llie  Palazzo  del  Comune  contains 
a  beautiful  altarpiece  by Domenico  Ghir- 
landaioj  a  good  picture  by  Simone  Can' 
tarini,  and  a  most  interesting  early 
Pietd  of  Bellini,  in  distemper,  painted 
about  1470.  The  Palace  of  the  Mar- 
chete  Diottolevi  also  contains  several 
good  pictures. 

In  the  market  place  is  a  pedestal 
with  the  following  inscription,  record- 
ing that  it  served  as  the  Muggestum  from 
which  Cofsar  harangued  his  army  a/ler 
the  pauage  of  the    Rubicon  :  —  C. 


Caesak  Dict.  Rubicons  superato 
civili  bel.  commilit  suos  hic  ijsf 
Foao  Ab.  adlocut.  This  is  probably 
as  apocryphal  as  the  Senatus  Con- 
sultum  on  the  column  at  Savignano.' 
Near  this  is  pointed  out  the  spot  where 
St.  Anthony  preached  to  the  people, 
and  near  the  canal  is  a  chapel  where 
the  saint  is  said  to  have  preached  to 
the  fishes  because  the  people  would 
not  listen  to  him.  In  the  square  of 
the  Palazzo  Pubblico  may  be  noticed 
a  handsome  fountain  and  a  bronze 
statue  of  Pope  Paul  V.  (Borghese.) 
j  The  ancient  port  of  Rimini,  situated 
I  at  the  mouth  of  the  Marecchia,  has 
.  been  gradually  destroyed  by  the  sands 
I  brought  down  by  that  stream  ;  and  the 
marbles  of  the  Roman  harbour  were 
appropriated  by  Sigismund  Malatesta 
to  the  construction  of  his  cathedral. 
Theodoric  is  said  to  have  embarked 
his  army  in  this  port  for  the  siege  of 
Ravenna.  It  is  now  the  resort  of  an 
immense  number  of  vessels  exclusively 
occupied  in  the  fisheries ;  half  the  po- 
pulation of  Rimini  are  said  to  be 
fishermen. 

The  Castd  Malatesta,  or  the  fortress, 
now  mutilated  and  disfigured  by  un« 
sightly  barracks,  bears  the  name  of  its 
founder :  the  rose  and  elephant  are 
still  traceable  upon  its  walls. 

The  Library  was  founded  in  1617, 
by  Gambalunga  the  jurist.  It  contains 
about  23,000  volumes.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  classical  MSS.,  and  a* 
papyrus  known  by  Marrini's  commen- 
tary, the  interest  of  its  manuscript  col- 
lection is  chiefiy  local. 

The  house  of  Francesca  da  Rimini 
is  identified  with  that  occupied  by 
Count  Cisterni,  formerly  the  Palazzo 
Iluflli ;  or  rather,  it  is  supposed  to  have 
occupied  the  site  of  the  existing  build- 
ing. There  is,  perhaps,  no  part  of  the 
Divina  Commedia  so  full  of  touching 
pathos  and  tenderness  as  the  tale  of 
guilty  love  in  which  Francesca  reveals 
to  Dante  the  secret  of  her  soul,  and 
of  her  soul's  master.  Its  interest  is 
increased  b^  iVvftTCCcJW^OAQtv  >^r»X'^\'««i« 
ccsca  waa  t.V\c  dawjj^\.^x  ol  OviA^i^ 
1  Polenta,  LotCl  oi  YUn^^x^^^  ^Vo  ^t 


1 


114 


!  14^— BOLOOKATOA 


IA^S.Xar 


.  ISec 


the  friend  nnd  generous  protector  of 
Dante  in  bis  old  age.  Tbe  delicac]' 
wilh  which  she  conveys  in  ■  single 
■entence  the  ntaiy  of  her  crime,  is 
rarpasHed  only  by  the  passaga  vhere 
the  poet  rcptesenls  tlie  bitter  weeping 
"'  tbe  oondemned  Ehades  as  so  far 
soming  his  fedinga  that  he  &inl-i 


^^^tte  poet  rcpr 
^^■f  tbe   oondf 

I  soli  e^Lm. 


m  golrnc 


It,  seven  tnilcs  south-east 
Blhe  lovn,  is  celebrated  for  fifteen  or 
orks  of  Guerclno.  painted 
f  him  during  frequent  visits  to  tbe 
toily  of  that  name. 
^The  Caaltt  di  S.  Lot,  lo  the  west- 
d  of  nimlni,  b  remarkable  as  tbe 
■■e  where  Caglioalro,  the  oeJebtaied 
''    '  In  exik'and  disgcacc,  in 

pTbereiikbridleraad  to  S.  Leo,  and 

e  by  the  great  sanctuaries 

I  Tuscany,  Camaldoli  and  Vallom- 

1,  to  Florence,  by  which  tbe  fish. 

o  supply  the  Tuscan  capital  with 

produce   of  tbe    Adriatic.      The 

b  QvtT  which  it  passes  are  highly 

e,  and  coiatuand  a  view  of 


lotheliEBrtofthe  PapalStates, 
ic  the  rock  on  wiiieb  it  stands,  is  Sah 
le  lost  surviving  represunt- 
B  of  the  Julian  republics.  This 
n  State,  tbe  smallest  which  the 

fl  Greece,  and  whose  unwritten  con- 
I  lasted  for  fourteen  een- 
f  has  retaiaed  its  indepepdence 


while  all  the  rest  of  the  peninsula, 
rrom  the  spurs  oFlbe  Alps  to  the  gulf 
of  Taranto,  has  been  convulsed  by 
political  change.  Yet,  with  all  this, 
the  republic,  until  the  year  1 S47,  made 

preserre  itself  unaltered  by  communi- 
cation with  its  neighbours,  than  keep- 
ing pace  with  the  improvements  of  the 
time.    The  printing  press  bad  not  then 

dicity  was  common,  ond  a  gaming 
table  had  very  recently  conlribuled  its 
share  lo  the  public  revenues.   Tlie  con- 

derwent  an  important  change  iit  IS47 
amidst  the  general  agitation  of  the 
Italian  States.  The  general  council, 
which  had  hitherto  hceo  composed 
promiscuously  of  sixty  nobles  and  ple- 
beians, elected  by  the  people,  was  then 
transformed  into  a  chamber  of  repre- 
sentatives.  Every  eitiMn  was  declared 


ered  t. 


lublic. 


1   all   0 


lirdsofwl 


L  council  of 
1  arc  changed 
between  the 

ippainted  for  the  tawu,  the  other  for 
rdwitlithe 


^clecl 
The  judicial  offii 


every 


buiastranger,  possessing  a  diploma  of 
doctor  oflaws,  is  appointed  to  discbarge 
its  functions,  and  is  elected  far  three 
years:   a  physician  and   surgeon  are 

citizens,  and  are  elected  only  for  Ihteo 

might  be  expected  tfaat  great  simplicity 
of  manners  would  prevail ;  hence  the 
chief  magistrate  will  oRen  be  found 
farming  his  own  land,  and  the  senators 
pruning  (heir own  vines.   ITie  territory 

miles,  its  population  is  under  7,QU0, 
and  its  miniatute  umy  does  nut  num. 


Pi^fol  States.']  R.14*. — bologna  to  ancona. — San  Marino.  115 


one  ^ery  recently  built  of  hewn  stone, 
with  a  handflome  portico. 

The  city  occupies  the  crest  of  the 
rocky  mountain  which  forms  so  con- 
spicuous an  object  from  the  high  road, 
and  contains  about  700  inhabitants. 
Only  one  road,  thatfrxnn  Rimini,  leads 
to  it ;  although  steep  and  rugged,  it  is 
broad  and  practicable  for  carriages. 

The  hamlet  of  BorgOt  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  is  the  place  where  the 
principal  inhabitants  reside;  it  con- 
tains about  500  souls.  The  soil  of  the 
lower  grounds  is  fertile,  and  the  little 
town  of  Serravalle  is  said  to  have  a 
thii?ing  trade  with  several  towns  in 
the  plain.  S.  Marino  itself  from  its 
high  situation,  is  exposed  to  a  cold  and 
▼ariable  climate,  and  snow  frequently 
lies  there  when  the  lowlands  enjoy  a 
comparatively  summer  temperature. 
^  llie  origin  of  the  republic  is  as  ro- 
mantic as  its  position.  According  to  the 
legend,  a  mason  of  Dalmatia,  called  Ma- 
rino, who  had  embraced  Christianity, 
after  working  thirty  years  at  Rimini, 
withdrew  to  this  mountain  to  escape 
the  persecutions  of  Diocletian.  Lead- 
ing the  life  of  an  austere  anchorite,  his 
fiime  soon  spread,  and  he  obtained 
disciples,  as  well  as  a  reputation  for 
sanctity.  The  princess  to  whom  the 
noountain  belonged  presented  it  to  him, 
and  instead  of  founding  a  convent, 
after  the  example  of  the  time,  he  esta- 
blished a  republic.  During  the  middle 
ages  the  independence  of  the  state  was 
often  threatened  by  the  dangerous  vici- 
nity of  the  Malatesta.  In  the  last 
century  Cardinal  Alberoni,  then  legate 
of  Romagna,  intrigued  against  it,  and 
on  the  pretence  that  the  government 
had  become  an  oligarchy,  invaded  and 
took  possession  of  its  territory  in  the  i 
name  of  the  church.  An  appeal  to  Pope  | 
Clement  XT  I.  obtained  an  order  that  > 
the  citizens  should  determine  their , 
own  fate  ;  at  a  general  assembly  they  ' 
unanimously  voted  against  submission  \ 
to  the  church,  and  the  papal  troops 
were  withdrawn.  Rut  the  events  which 
subseguenti^conru/sed  £urope  thrcat- 
cned  the  republic  more  than  the  in- 
trigtMeg  a  the  church  ;  and  it  would 


doubtless   have  long  since  ceased  to 
exist  except  in  history,  if  it  had  not 
been  saved  by  the  magnanimous  con- 
duct of  Antonio  Onofri,  who  deserved 
the  title  of  «  Father  of  his  country," 
inscribed  by  his  fellow-citizens  upon 
his  tomb.    This  remarkable  man  spent 
his  life  in  its  service,  and  by  his  bold 
and  decided  patriotism,  induced  Na« 
poleon  to  rescind  his  decree  for  the 
suppression  of  the  republic.     When 
summoned  before  the  emperor,  he  said, 
**  Sire,  the  only  thing  you  can  do  for 
us,  is  to  leave  us  just  where  we  are." 
In  spite  of  all  subsequent  overtures, 
Onofri  maintained  so  perfect  a  neu- 
trality, that  he  was  enabled  to  vindicate 
his  country   before  the  Congress  of 
Vienna,  and  obtain  the  recognition  of 
its  independence.      Unlike  other  re- 
publics, San  Marino  did  not  forget  its 
debt  of  gratitude  to  the  preserver  of  its 
liberties,  for,  besides  the   inscription 
on  Onofri*s  tomb,  a  marble  bust  in  the 
council  chamber  records  his  services, 
and  their  acknowledgment  by  the  statew 
There  are  few  objects   of  interest 
to  be  found  in  San  Marino,  if  we  ex- 
cept the  picture  of  the  Holy  Family 
in  the  council  chamber,  attributed  to 
Giulio  Romano.     At  Borgo  there  is  a 
singular  cavern,  into  which  a  strong 
and  dangerous   current   of   cold   air 
perpetually  rushes  from  the  crevices 
of  the  mountain.     The  view  from  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  and  from 
various  points  of  its  declivities  is  suf- 
ficient to  repay  a  visit ;   on  a  clear 
day,  the  deep  gulf  of  the  Adriatic  is 
traced  as  far  as  the  coast  of  Dalmatia, 
and  a  wide  prospect  of  the  chain  of 
Apennines  is  commanded,  singularly 
in  contrast  with  the  sea  view.     But 
the  great  interest  of  San  Marino  in 
our  own  time,  independently  of  its  his- 
torical associations,  has  been  derived 
from  the  Cavaliere  Borghese,  one  of 
the   first    scholars   of    modern  Italy, 
whose  superb  cabinet  of  medals,  rich 
in   consular   and   imperial  examples, 
has   obtained  a   Euro^im.  c<iWbt\Vs« 
This  Warned  ixiaii\&  aw  vAo^tVi.^  ^v<\uis:Ql^ 
and  b\%  aTcV\8^\o\^\cA  atv>^vvx««vwto 
'[  have  made  a  i^Wjgcvcaa^^  ^.^  ^siMw'^ 


ROUTE  li. — BOLOGNA  TO 


Tino   >  labour  of  love  to  t1 
eminent  Bntiquamn  tiavellei 
colleclion    amoiuils    to    upwards   of 
40,'X)0,   ind,  littides  the  ' 


sixteenth  century,  Pesaro,  as  the  court 
of  the  diikes  of  Roiere,  biicanie  the 
rallying   point   of  the  literary  men, 


rangen 


liled  by 

elaborale  work  on  tbe  consular  annals. 
The  house  in  which  Melchlore  Delficc 
compoijGd  his  bislorical  memoir  ol 
San  Marino  a  marked  by  an  inscrip- 
tion eipresatye  oT  the  author's  grati- 

ihere  duriiig  his  eiile. 

The  road  from  Rimini  to  La  Cat- 
tollcB  follovB  the  coast,  and  is  per- 
fectly flat.  Near  the  Iiamlet  of  a 
Loreiuo   it  crosses  the   Morano,  atiii 


nelled 


IJ  La  Catlolici 


none,  ana  is  ceteoratec 
le  refuge  of  poets :  — 


. .B •>(  Cflsti- 

celebrated  by  Ariot>to  as 


a  small  Tillage  of 
I9UU  umauiisncg,  so  called  fron  ' 
aheller  it  afforded  to  the  orthodoi 
Intes  who  separated  themselves 
the  Arian  bishops  at  the  Council  of 
Rimini.  The  country  betveen  La 
Cattolica  and  Pesuo  js  ricii  and  scat- 
tered with  numerous  villas.  The  road 
ascends  the  high  ground  of  Poggio 
Letbre  il  enlers 

1  Paaro  f  PiBaurum).  (  hna.  Posts, 
or  Villa  di  Parma,  civil,  but  dirty;  La 
Pace,  clean. )  This  ancient  town  is 
pleasantly  situated  above  the  moulh 
of  the  Foglia,  the  ancient  Isaurua.  It 
vas  one  of  the  cities  of  Pentapolis, 
and  was  celebiated  during  many  oen. 

and  for  the  distinguished,  persons  it 
produced.  It  passed  to  the  church  in 
the  pontificate  of  Urban  VI I L,  and 
it  shares  with  Urbitui  the  honour  of 
being  the  capital  of  a  legation  com- 
prising a  population  of  22S,B00  souls, 
and  a  superficies  of  ISO  square  leagues- 
It  is  the  residence  of  the  legate.  The 
populat'iao  of  the  town  amounts  toj 
JTiSOO  soula.  It  is  an  epiftcopal 
toivo,  surrounded  by  walls  and  bas- 
loa^  and  haa  a  small  port      In    ' 


The  Princess  of  Urbino,  Lucreiid 
d'Este,  mduced  Bernardo  Tasso  and 
his  son  to  settle  at  Pessro.  Behind 
the  Lunatic  Asylum  at  the  Rimiu'i 
gate,  is  the  casino  they  inhabited,  and 
in  which  Bernardo  composed  the 
Amadis.  Among  (he  eminent  men 
whom  Pesaro  has  produced  in  motlera 
times,  are  Perticari,  Rossini,  Count 
INioli  the  chemist,  the  Marehese  Pe~ 
trucci  the  naturalist,  and  Count  Casu 
the  translator  of  Lucan.  Pesoro  was 
formerly  famous  for  its  good  palnt- 

and    nearly  all  which  were   restored 

have  found  tlieir  way  back  to  their 

of  Pesaro,  it  may 


ioned  tl 


t  Pietr. 


was  elected  Pope  here  in  1294,  under 
the  title  of  Celestine  V. 

ne  Cathedra]  contains  litEle  to  in- 
terest the  stranger.  The  church  of 
S.  JVoneeico  haa  one  of  the  best  works 
of  Giocanai  BiBiai,  the  Coronation 
of  the  Virgin ;  ou  the  predella  and 
the  pilasters  are  some  beautiful  little 
pictures  by  the  same  artist.  In  the 
church  of  S.  Dmneniiv,  the  first  altar, 
>n  the  left  has  a  Madonna  and  Saints, 


byt! 


nthe 


islya  Madonna  and  Child,  by  DeUa 
Sobbia.  In  the  sacristy  of  S.  Antonio, 
a  fine  Gothic  altarpiece  by  Antoyiio  da 
Afurann,  HS4i  and  in  that  of  the  An- 
nuniiata  a  capital  Annunciation,  by 
some  otlributed  to  Viltorio  Carpaicio. 
The  church  of  the  S5.  Sacramrnla  has 
d  Law  Supper  by  Niceold  da  ifemro. 
S.  CoDiana  ^aa  a  ftne  puAuie  ot  %\^ 
BarbaTB,   b^    Slinme    Cmvtmini,      8. 


Pieffoi  SiaiesJ]   RT.  14. — bologna  to  ancona. — Pesaro.     117 


Giovtami  de*  RifonMii  was  built  by 
Bartolommeo  Genga,  the  engineer  and 
architect  to  the  Duke  of  Urbino ;  the 
altarpiece^  by  Guercino,  has  suffered 
from  the  carelessness  of  restorers.  St. 
F^ian  was  the  first  bishop  of  Fesaro 
on  the  establishment  of  the  See,  a.d. 
247. 

The  Biblto^ca  OUvieri,  founded  and 
bequeathed  to  his  native  town  by  the 
lei^ned  antiquary  and  abb^  of  that 
iuinie,'contaius  about  13,000  volumes, 
besides   600   MSS.      The   latter  are 
exceedingly    rich    in    memorials    of 
Pesaro  and  of  the  duchy,  for  the  most 
part  inedited.     Among  other  interest- 
ing MSS.  may  be  mentioned  an  inedit- 
ed canzone  by  Pandolfo  Collenuecio, 
strangled  here  in  prison  by  Giovanni 
Sforza,  on  account  of  his  connection 
with   Cesar  Borgia;    an  eclogue  by 
Serafino  d'Aquila,  and  various  read- 
ings of  the  Stanze  of  Politian.     Of 
Tasso  some  letters  remain  inedited, 
and  also  a  valuable  commentary  on 
his  great   poem   by   Malatesta  della 
Porta.      His  annotations  on  Dante, 
originally  in  the   Giordani    Library, 
were  given  to  the  poet  Monti,  before 
it  was  added  to  the  Olivieri.     An- 
nexed to  the  library  is  a  small  mu- 
seum of  antiquities  and  coins,  chiefly 
Roman,  collected  and  partially  Illus- 
trated by  the  Abb6  Olivieri. 

The  ancient  palace  of  the  Dukes  of 
Urbino  is  now  occupied  by  the  legate ; 
its  grand  saloon  is  on  a  scale  of  princely 
magnificence,  perfectly  in  character 
with  the  pomp  of  their  court.  The 
large  building  opposite  the  palace,  now 
converted  into  shops,  was  occupied  by 
the  pages. 

Close  to  Pesaro  is  Monte  S.  Bartolo, 
the  ancient  Accius,  so  called  from  the 
Latin  tragedian  L.  Accius,  who  was  a 
native  of  the  town,  and  was  buried  on 
the  mountain.  Near  its  summit,  at 
the  distance  of  about  two  miles  from 
the  town,  is  the  Imperiale,  once  the 
favourite  villa  of  the  Dukes  of  Urbino, 
built  by  the  Duchess  Leonora Gonzaga, 
wife  of  Francesco  Maria  I.,  in  order 
to  surprise  him  on  his  return  from  his 
campMigns,     It  was  decorated  by  the 


pencil  of  Raffaele  del  Colle  with 
frescoes  now  nearly  ruined;  on.  the 
walls  of  one  of  the  courts  are  verses 
in  honour  of  the  duke's  return  written 
by  Bembo,  whose  residence  here  is 
celebrated  by  Tasso,  Rime  ii.  38. 
This  once  beautiful  villa  is  described 
by  Bernardo  Tasso,  who  represents  it 
as  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  in 
I  Italy ;  but  it  fell  into  decay  in  the  last 
century,  when  it  became  the  refuge  for 
the  Portuguese  Jesuits  expelled  by  the 
Marquis  de  Pombal.  Its  rich  stair- 
cases and  galleries,  and  its  broad  ter- 
race from  which  the  valley  of  the 
Foglia  is  commanded  to  its  junction 
with  the  sea,  are  sufficient  to  show 
that  there  was  much  truth  in  the 
poet's  description. 

In  the  neighbouring  church  of  the 
Gerolamiti  is  a  fine  picture  of  St 
Jerome  by  Giovanni  Santif  and  from 
the  point  behind  the  convent  may  be 
enjoyed  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
views  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  the  road  to  Rimini  is  La  Fit- 
toria,  another  villa,  which  has  acquired 
notoriety  as  the  residence  of  Queen 
Caroline  of  £ngland,  while  Princess 
of  Wales ;  in  the  garden  may  still  be 
seen  a  small  monument  she  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  Princess  Char- 
lotte, and  another  to  her  brother, 
the  Duke  of  Brunswick,  who  fell  at 
Waterloo. 

The  fortress  of  Pesaro  was  begun 
in  1474  by  Costanzo  Sforza,  from  the 
designs  of  Lauranna  Dalmatino,  and 
finished  by  Giovanni  Sforza. 

The  port  is  formed  by  the  embouchure 
of  the  Foglia:  it  was  enlarged  by 
Francesco  Maria  IT.  della  Rovere, 
but  has  subsequently  become  shallow; 
Pius  VII.  contributed  to  its  safety  by 
the  addition  of  a  fort,  in  1821.  Pesaro 
was  one  of  the  first  places  in  Italy 
where  pottery  and  earthenware  were 
manufactured,  dating  as  far  back  as 
the  time  of  the  Roman  emperors. 
The  manufacture  revived  in  1300 
under  Boniface  VIII.,  and  attained 
great  perfection  under  the  Sforzas  and 
the  Divkes  ot  \Jx\jvcvo,  ^«^wiYB5\^  ^\xv- 
dobaldo  11.,  «l\>omX  \^\Q. 


i 


St.  14.— sotoeKA  to  ascoh a  .~-Fa»o,     [jS«t,  IJ 

1,  which  ' 


[  are  oelebratcd  by  Tb 
Cutiglione. 

It  only  remainii  to  mention  at  PesEro 
the  piDnienade  of  the   ReWedEre  San 

jUBtration   of  Count     Canii    when 

id  for  ranny  other  liberal  imptove- 

f  Those  who  have  leisure  lo  eiplore 
t  neighbouring  Tillagn  will  find, 
nany  grand  points  of  view,  the 
NBowtng  interesting  early  pictures. 
yf  Ora&a,  8  miles  north,  an  altat' 
■e  by  Oiavanxi  Santi  in  the  church 
I  St.  Sophia;  and  at  Madonna  del  I 
te,  3  miles  west,  a  fine  Annunci-  | 
of  1510  by  an  unlmown  painter.  . 
f[There  is  a  direct  road  from  Pesaro  | 
lo,  aMending  the  course  of  the  | 
and  passing  under  the  Tillages 
f  Colbordalo,  CaldauD,  and  Riccei. 
i  diligence  runs  between  the  two 
IS  three  limes  a  week.  ¥or  Urbine, 
A  Route  IT.] 

■ing  Pesaro,  >  beautiful  drive, 
Ktly  along  the  const,  brings  us  to 
fe'l  Fano,  the  ancient  Fanum  For- 
td  one  of  the  eilles  of  Penta- 
(hns,  II  Moro,  clean  and 
hmoderatecharges;  Trelle.)' 
a  well  built  and  agreeable  I 
[1,  surrounded  by  walls,  no  longer  ' 
isary  for  the  purposes  of  defence,  | 
g  theremerobranca  of  I 
■M  celebrated  fortress.  Its  Mtu- 
H  fertile  plain  ensures  it  an  | 
.  It  supply  of  fresh  air  ;  the  cli-  I 
is  said  to  be  eitiemcly  healthy, 
t  cold  in  the  winter  and  spring.  I 
luring  the  aunmier  tnonlhs  Fano  | 
Mild  afibrd  an  agreeable  residence.  I 
lery  of  the  neighbourbo 


'  Tlie  ancient  name  of  the  town  is 
commemorated  by  a  modern  statue  of 
Fortune  in  the  middle  of  the  graceful 
public  fountain,  which  is  probably  the 
representative  of  one  more  ancient. 
The  principal  object  of  classical  in. 
terest  in  Fano  is  the  Trlvmphal  Arch 
of  white  marble,  erected  in  honour  of 
which   ConEtantine 


1 


built  an  attic  with  columi 
which  remain.  On  the  adjoining 
chapel,  by  the  side  of  its  arabesque 
door-post,  is  carved  a  representation 
of  the  arch  as  it  originally  stood  with 
(he  two  inscriptions  on  the  arch  and 
attic.  This  interesting  monument  is 
(he  last  representative  of  the  riches 
and  magnilicence  of  Fano  under  its 
Roman  rulers,  who  adorned  the  oily 
with  sumptuous  baths  and  with  a  ha- 
Hiica  designed  by  VltruvtuB  on  the 
model  of  the  Palatine  at  Home.  The 
town  walls  were  erected  by  Augustus, 
and  restored  by  the  sons  of  Constsn- 

The  CaHeJral,  dedicated  to  S.  For- 


t  has  Kuffered  frou 
ins.      The 


object 


itiJHil. 


«  facilitie! 


cellen 


four  recumljent  lions,  on  which  the 
columns  of  the  Gothic  portico  evidently 
rested.  On  entering  the  church,  on 
\.\pe  left  hand  is  the  chapel  of  S.  Giro- 
lamo,  contaioinft  the  monument  of  a 
member  of  the  Haynalduoci  family, 
with  his  portrait  painted  on  stone, 
said  to  be  by  Famiylia  (?).  The  altar- 
piece  of  this  chapel  is  a  picture  of  the 
Cruciitxion  by  an  unknown  artist. 
Nearly  opposite  to  this  is  a  chapel  con- 
tainingsiilecnfrescoesbyZlaiRfni'cAJiia.' 
they  were  once  among  his  most  beau- 
tiful and  expressive  works;  but  thoy 

atlcmplsf 


■ 

1^  with  all  the  great  towns.      The 

ation.    the 

■ 

fcfa  road  passes  round  the  walls  with- 

Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  tl 

c  Nfltivitv. 

B  Temple, 

■ 

Mt  traveller  be  aware  beforehand  how 

are  among  the  finest  con 

ceptions'of 

■ 

■biy  objects  of  interest  it  contains. 

this  master.     In  the  chape 

oftheSu- 

Fa  nry  probable  that  he  would  be 

cnsly,  on  the  same  side,  is 

a  Madunna 

H'/iivi  an  willKiiit  having  an  oppor-  ,  with  Wo  naints  in  adora 

on  by  Lo. 

'"n- of  discovering  tbcmbiiasdf.       [dovko    Carncci.      "Hve   cd 

nus^HiiKvo^ 

^ 

I 

Papal  Siates,"]  rt.  14.— bologna  to  ancona. — Fano.       119 

chapel  in  the  opposite  aisle  has  a  paint-  '■  derni.     N^  11  figlio  par  che  si  rimo- 


ing  of  the  Fall  of  the  Manna  by  an 
unknown  artist. 

The  Church  of  Sta.  Maria  Nuova 


demasse,  uscito  dello  studio  patemo.** 

The  Church  of  S.  Pietro,  another 

splendid    building,   rich  in  marbles, 


contains  two  excellent  works  by  Pe-  ;  frescoes,  and  paintings,  contains  a 
ruffino  ;  one  a  very  beautiful  picture  '  good  picture  by  Guido.  It  is  In  th j 
of  the  Annunciation,  the  other  in  a ,  Gabrielle  chapel,   and  represents  the 


chapel  oppoaitt  to  it  representing  the 
Virgin  and  Child— a  still  finer  work. 


Annunciation :    it  was  described  by 
Simone  Cantarinl,  the  pupil  of  Guido, 


Above  and  below  this  painting  are  :  as  the  finest  picture  in  the  world.  On 
small  pictures  once  ascribed  to  Ra^  i  one  side  of  the  altar  is  a  picture  con- 
phadi  the  lunette  above  represents  a  sidered  fine,  representing  a  miracle  of 
Pietik,  with  the  Madonna,  St.  John,  j  St.  Peter  by  Cantarini,  The  frescoes 
Nicodemus,  and  Joseph  of  Arimathea;  of  Viviani  are  also  regarded  as  master- 
tlie  gradino  underneath  has  five  com*  !  pieces  of  that  artist. 
partments  illustrating  the  life  of  the  |  The  Church  of  iS^  Agostino  contains 
\lrgin ;  both  of  these  paintings  have  '  an  exquisite  Guardian  Angel  by  Guer- 
been  erroneously  attributed  to  Ra-  i  cine.  The  Church  of  S.  Filippo  has  a 
piiael ;  many  consider  the  latter  to  be  |  Magdalen  by  the  same  master.  In  the 
the  work  of  Genga,  Behind  the  altar  Church  of  S.  Bomenico  is  a  picture  of 
is  a  small  Madonna  by  Scusoferrato,  |  St  Thomas  by  Palma  Vecchio,  Sta, 
and  in  the  first  chapel  on  the  lefl  on  '  Croce,  now  the  hospital,  has  an  inter- 
entering  the  church,  is  the  visitation  |  esting  altarpiece,  represer  _,'  the  Vir- 
of  St  Elizabeth,  by  the  father  of  Ra-  |  gin  and  Child,  with  sevw.  saints,  by 
phaci,  Giftvanni  Santu  i  Giovanni  Santi,      In    the    Chiesa  del 

The  Church  of  S.  Patemiano^  de-  i  Suffragio  is  a  St.  Francis  by  Mvziani, 
dicated  to  the  first  bishop  of  Fano  j  In  Sta,  Teresa  there  is  a  fine  altarpiece 
(elected  a.d.  .'KX);  is  a  noble  edifice ;  !  by  Albaui,  In  S,  Michehf  adjoining 
it  contains  the  Sposalizio  of  Guercino,  the  Arch  of  Augustus,  is  another 
well  known  by  the  engraving  of  Vol-  characteristic  work  of  the  Presciuiii, 
pato.  In  a  chapel  opposite  to  this  is  The  Capuccini  contains  two  works  re- 
tlie  Death  of  S.  Joseph  by  the  Cav.  '  garded  as  the  masterpieces  of  Maticini 
fCArpimo,  and  the  Virgin  and  Child,    and  Ceccarini. 

with  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  and  S.  Sc-  '  In  the  Folfi  College  is  preserved  the 
bastian,  by  Claudio  Itidofji,  the  pupil  >  celebrated  painting  of  David  with  the 
of  Baroccio.  The  altarpiece  is  by  ,  head  of  Goliath,  by  Domenxchinot  with 
Aiessandro  Tiarini,  the  friend  of,  copies  of  his  frescoes  in  the  cathe- 
Guido ;  the  chapel  of  the  saint  has  dral.  <*  His  David,"  says  Lanzi,  "  is 
some  frescoes  by  Viviani^  and  three  ,  an  object  of  curiosity  to  all  foreigners 
others  representing  events  in  the  life ,  of  any  pretensions  to  taste :  it  is  a 
of  S.  Paterniano  by  Carlo  Bonone,  figure  as  large  as  life,  and  would  alone 

The  small  church  of  iS.  Tom;ita50  has  suffice  to  render  an  artist's  name  im- 
an  altarpiece  of  the  saint  by  Pompeo   mortal.'* 

and  liartulommeo  Presciuttit  two  native  |  The  Church  of  S.  Francesco  'pre- 
artists,  who  are  noticed  by  Lanzi  as  sents  us  with  an  interesting  example 
following  the  dry  style  of  the  artists  of  sculpture,  as  an  addition  to  the  ca- 
of  the  fourteenth  century,  in  prefer-  ,  talogue  of  works  of  art  already  de- 
ence  to  the  adoption  of  those  reforms  scribed,  in  the  tombs  of  Pandolfo 
which  painting  had  undergone  in  their  Malatesta  and  his  wife.  These  re- 
own  time.  "  Fa  maraviglia  il  vedere  markable  monuments  are  placed  under 
quanto  poco  curino  la  riforma  che  la  the  portico  of  the  church.  The  door 
pittura  avea  fatta  per  tutto  il  mondo.  in  the  centre  is  extremely  rich,  and 
Kssi  sieguono  il  sccco  disegno  del  has  a  TOviwAAwaditiii  clxc^^  «ccv\  y^%£\k\v 
quattrocvntisti ;  e  lascian  dire  i  mo-   covered  ^\l\\  at;a\>(^Y^^%  ^w^  ^•sj^a."^* 


BSO  Kt.  li. — SOtOGKA  XO 

I  OnlherighlgfthT^islhetomberMled 
r  fcy  Sigisround  Pandolfo  lo  hla  fatUer 
Pandolfo  MaUlesta,  in  1460.  On  the 
1^  is  the  superb  san'ophagiis  of  the 
vife,  erected  in  1 S9S  :  it  is  ornainentHl 
with  btuts  of  saints  on  the  front,  and 
^JB  placed  under  a  rich  Gothic  canopy 

te]y  carved.      It  is  interesting 
u  an  example  uF  art,  than  as  b 
morial   of   the    illuslriuua    family 


■SUntff^lia.    fSect.  li 

I  yond  it  (be  Cesano,  tbe  Sena  of  Lucon, 
I  is  crossed,  near  nhich  Is  a  road  vtest- 
I  ward  ascending  the  stTeam  to  I'crgola, 
;  a  small  lown  of  3000  inliabitants. 
I  1  SinigaDia  (7nn,  Locanda  dclla 
,  Formica),  tbe  ancient  Sena,  known  by 
.tbe  appellative  of  Callica  to  dislin- 
Etruscan  Sune.     Il 


import 


ipal  t 


ation   of  about  I 


Btaly. 

Til  Theatre  of  Fano, 
e  of  (he  most 
le  oldest,  in  Italy  ;  it  i 
rtiat.  Tordli,  an 
rious  paintings. 


Lern  coast  uf 

now  relmild-  ' 
ramous,  if  not 

1  ornamentec' 

The  scene! 

i  really  whai 


bey  appeared,  and  no' 

atioQs.      ITiey  were  the  work 

Kthe  celebrated  Bibiena. 

f  7^   Port  wai  once  a  well-known 

rt  of  the  traders  of  the  Adriatic: 

0:1  repured  by  Paul  V.,  in  1616, 

Oder  tbe  direction   of  Rinsldi,   and 

ved  from  that  pope  tbe  name  of 


The 


It  will  ever  remi 


1  that  the  first  pruiting- 
1  Europe  with  Ar^ic 
•s  was  established  here,  at  tbe  ex- 
leof  Pope  Julius  II..  in  I5H. 
t  [An  excellent  road  leads  from  Fsno 
"  "  '"  'Route  IT),  and  from  thence 
a  by  Are«ii>,  or  to  Rome 
)r  Perugia  (Routes  18,  SI).  There  is 
ho  a  post  road  from  Fano  to  Foligno, 
f  the  Strada  del  Fuilo  (  Route  16)  ]. 
•  -  -  -inigolli, 


rs  the  si 


ssofthe  Adris 


and 


leabledi 

■   On  leaving  Fano,  tbe  road  crosses 
■"letaurus,  now  the  Me- 
I,  a  broad  and  rapid 
1,  recalling  the  fate  of  Asdrubal : 


iohabilE 

mouth  of  the  Misa,  which  nearly  re- 
I  tains  its  classic  name  of  Misus.  The 
port,  enlarged  and  improved  by  Sigia- 
mund  Malatesta,  aHbrds  convenient 
accommodation  to  numerous  fishing 
and  trading  .easels.  This  ancient  town 
of  the  Gaili  Senones  was  sacked  by 
Pompey  in  the  wars  of  Marins  and 
Sylla;  it  became  in  later  agi-s  one  of 
the  cities  of  Pentepolis;  but  it  suf- 
fered so  much  from  fire  and  sword 
during  the  troubles  of  the  middle  agcn, 
that  the  present  town  is  almost  entirely 

Sinigallia  haa  acquired  an  infamous 

of  the  confederate  chie^,  or  condot- 
tieri,  by  their  ally  Cesar  Borgia,  De- 
cember 31st,  1502.  Borgia,  through 
whose  services  his  father  Alexander  VI, 
had  reduced  nearly  all  his  rebellious 
vassals  of  Romagna,  found  himself  un- 
expectedly deserted  by  a  large  body 
of  his  French  lioops,  and  determined, 
in  order  to  cotmteract  the  influence  of 
thLi  defection,  to  attack  Sinigaliia. 
This  little  principality  wbs  (hen  go- 
verned by  a  daughter  of  Federigo 
duke  of  Urbino,  broUier  of  Guid' 
Ubaldo,  the  reigning  duke.  On  the 
approach  of  the  hostile  force  the  prin. 
cess  retired  10  Venice,  leavingthetowo 
in  the  command  of  the  confederate 
captains,  who  refused  to  surrender  un- 
less Borgia  invested  it  in  person.  In 
order  to  allay  suspicions,  Borgia  dis- 
missed a  large  portion  of  his  forces, 
and  requested  the  confederates  to  dis- 
perse their  troops  in  the  neighbouring 
vilUges,  in  order  that  bis  own  might 
find  qourtots  in  the  city.  On  the  21st 
,  DccembEt  \ie\Bft.¥ttiui,  a.uiam'iftia.'i 


Papai  Siaiea.']  r.  14. — bologna  to  ancona. — Sinigedlia.  121 


Sinigallia  the  same  night,  with  2000 
bone  Mid  10,000  foot     Three  of  the 
captains,  Vitellozao  Vitelli,  Paolo  and 
Francesco  Ornni,  went  out  unarmed 
to  meet  him  as  an  ally ;  they  were  re- 
ceived by  Borgia  with  courtesy,  but 
were  placed  under  the  surveiUance  of 
two  gentlemen  of  his  suite.   The  fourth 
captain,  Oliverotto,  the  only  one  who 
had  not  dispersed  his  troops,  met  Bor- 
gia near  the  town,  and,  like  his  com- 
panions, was  placed  imder  surveillance, 
under   a  similar  pretext  of  honour. 
They  all  alighted  together  at  the  pa- 
lace, and   the   four  captains  had  no 
Booner  entered  than  they  were  arrested. 
Borgia  immediately  gave  orders  to  at- 
tack the  barracks  in  which  the  com- 
pany of  Oliverotto  was  quartered,  and 
every  man  was  destroyed.     The  same 
evening  he  had  Vitellozzo  and  Olive- 
rotto strangled ;  and  on  the  1 8th  Ja- 
nuary following  Paolo  Orsini  and  his 
brother  underwent  the  same  late.   This 
terrible  perfidy,  although  it  did  not 
eicite  the  wrath  of  a  people  already 
weary  of  the  military  tyranny  of  their 
late  masters,  has  scarcely  a  parallel 
even  in  that  depraved  chapter  of  Ita- 
lian history  in  which  Alexaifder  VI. 
and  his  family  were  the  chief  actors. 
It  has  been  attributed,  by  Roscoe  and 
others,  to   the   instigation   or  conni- 
vance of  Machiavelli ;  but   the  great 
Florentine  has  been  defended  by  Sis- 1 
mondi,  on  the  evidence  which  his  own  ! 
letters  aiftird  against  such  a  suspicion.  | 
He  considers  that  Roscoe's  strongest : 
argument,  that  Machiavelli  does  not 
induljre    in   any   reflections    on    the 
crime,  is  not  admissible,  since  he  was , 
only  bound  to  state  facts,  and  a  diplo- 
matic dispatch  is  not  expected  to  con-  ' 
vey  the  expression  of  private  feelings. 

SiniguUia  contains  few    ol>jects   of 
interest,  and  most  of  its  pictures  have  , 
disappeared.       The    convent     appro- 
priated to  the  P.  P.   liiformati,  two 
miles  to  the  west  of  the  town,  was 
built  bv   Giovanni  della   Rovcre  and 
Giovanna   di    Montcfeltro    his   wife,  i 
who  are  both  buried  within  its  church, , 
with  only  a  plain  lapidary  inscription. 
A  sitMfJ  picture  preserves  their  por- 


traits  on  either  side  of  the  Madonna. 
A  fine  picture  of  the  Madonna  and 
six  Saints  by  Perugino,  in  the  choir, 
has  been  lately  sadly  injured  by  clean- 
ing. Sinigallia  became  a  bishopric 
in  the  fourth  century;  its  cathedral 
is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter.  It  may  be 
considered  a  proof  of  the  commercial 
character  of  the  town  that  it  contains 
a  Jewish  synagogue.  Many  of  the 
houses  and  public  edifices  are  well 
built,  and  the  town  wears  an  air  of 
general  neatness,  expressive  of  Ufa  and 
energy  on  the  part  of  its  inhabitants. 
In  recent  times  it  has  become  remark- 
able as  the  birthplace  of  Madame 
Catalan!,  and  of  the  present  Pope, 
Pius  IX. 

But  the  great  interest  of  Sinigallia 
is  the  celebrated  Fair  of  St  Mary  Mag- 
daleny  tracing  its  remote  antiquity  for 
more  than  600  years,  and  still  preserv- 
ing its  freedom  from  customs  and  tri- 
bute.    It  was  established  by  Sergius, 
Count  of  Sinigallia  in  1200,  and  was 
made  free  by  Paul  II.  in  1464,  a  pri- 
vilege which  the  political  and  domestic 
changes  of  successive  ages  have  not 
affected.      It  commences  on  the  20th 
July,   and   lasts  to  the   8th   August; 
during  these  twenty  days  the  town  is 
crowded  with  visitors  from  all  parts  of 
Italy,  with  merchants  from  countries 
beyond  the   Alps  and  even  from  the 
Levant,  mingling  the  manufactures  of 
the   North  with  the  rich  produce  of 
the  East.    There  is  scarcely  a  language 
of  Europe  which  is  not  heard  on  this 
occasion,  and  there  is  no  place  where 
the  different   Italian  dialects  may  be 
studied  in  so  great  perfection.     The 
city  wears  the  aspect  of  a  bazaar,  and 
as  every  house  is  converted  into  a  shop, 
and  every  street  is  covered  with  awn- 
ings, the  eastern  traveller  may  almost 
imagine^himself  in  Constantinople.    It 
is  beyond  all  comparison  the  richest 
and  I>est  attended  fair  in  the  States. 
As  the  merchandize  pays  duty  on  pass- 
ing out  of  the  town,  every  art  and  de- 
vice are  practised  to  elude  the  vigi- 
lance of  the  officers  of  customs ;  aud 
yet,  in  spile  o?  iwwtVv  w£\w^\fJ^*v^^N  >\\^ 
revenue  vt  avoids  \,o  >^vi  "SiVt^-vi  '^^  ^^ 


ht.  14. — BOLOoiTA  to  axoosa. — SiniffaBia 

"  Every 


froiQ  colly  jewellery  ft 


v«,   Trii^re.   France 

■  Levant  ilujila;  tbeir  ii 


itclies 


3  thei 


lany, 


e  to  pockets.  Yet  great  »  (he  squabbllnj 
itry,  tha  entresling,  the  bullying  at  [ 
jpo-  galea;  and  many  fainl  just  at  111 
Ce-  psTtlculir  monieDt,  and  cannot  i 
and  cover  uoleas  tliey  drive  outidde  ai 
reel  (be  country  air.      In  Tact,  it 


■ndiie,  not  in  small  pnrecis  lo  tempt  i 
lal  stToller,  but  in  bales 

jr   the    supply  of  the   Inlaiiil  have  died  or  to   bave   gone   abroac 

Every  dialect  of  the  lulisn  before  or  ({lar  the  last  fair  of  Sini 

_e,    out    into  by   the    tougher  gallla  i    many   know  only   those   tw 

Mofthetransalpineorthegullural  periods  in  Ibe  year."— ZJr.  Wiumm 
languages,    ii '  The  English  traveller,  who  Bo  afte 

mrd,  generating  a  Babel  of  sounds,  seeks  in  vain  for  Iresh  objects  OJ 

"      '■                 greeting   of  d  '"    '           '*    "        '  '" 


(  fifty  mile*  ladiui  (the  city  being  i  place  perl 


will   do    > 


rat  ei 


tot   their  money   tu   some   purpuiie ;  |       I    Case    tlrueiaie,    a   post   s 

' '  "     crowds  of  Itomao,  Tuscan,  aad    rluse  to  tbc  river  Esino,  wbere 

idlers,  come  (o  enjoy  a  lounge  |  gins    lo    turn    inland.      Hie    ri 


ttwugb  thU  baiaar-city,  or  partake 

rcf  the  fbirnier  the  cuslom-houte  oBieers 

with   the  picturesque  beauty   of  the 

Meditei*auean. 

[Before  crossing  the  Esino,  a  road 

^ys  its  duty  upon  passing  the  gates 

leading  westward  aseends  the  left  lank 

ffr  enter  into  tlie  country,  many  are  the 

of  the   river  lo  J™',  31   miles  fiom 

wbemes  and  devices  for  esesping  the 

Ancona,  31  from  Sassoferrato,  one  of 

the  most  important  towns  of  the  de- 

and inconsideiate  officials.    Much  that 

legation  of  Ancona,     Ii  is  the  ancient 

is  bought  is  concealed  in  the  town,  so 

(Esium,  the  (Esis  of  Ptolemy,  a  Pe- 

'    las. 


09  the  birthplace  of  the  great  emperor 

M>patiE  countrymen,  tanned  to  colour    was  designated  by  tlie  title  of  a  "  royal 
'bronze,  as  they  go  out  of  the  gales    city."     Its  cathedral  is  dedicated  lo 
Ki^i^  Iheir  dclicHte  compleiions  from    St.  Septimius  Martyr,  ltd  first  bishop 
'  'tb  tb«r  new  umbrellas;  and  |  on  the  creation  of  the  see.  A.  n.  308. 

n  protect  themselres  against  i  A   road    leading   due  south  through 
Ei|H  chill    of   Italian    dog-days    with    Filotrano.  and  crossing  the  Esino  and 

fur.oollared    cloaks  |  Musone,  falls  into  the  high  post  mad 

-tapped  close  around  them.      Drop-  i  fiom  Ancona  to  Fuligno,  on  the  banks 
miai  Inalook  very  common,  and  pocket    of  the  Potenia,  below  Maccrata.] 

■■  irehieft  seem  vtotly  like  shawls,         A  ouslnm-house  is  encountered  on 
hn  fashion  seems  to  have  come  'entering  the  gateof  Ancona  (the  Porta 
'    fn   of  rearing   (Joiible    Bpparel,    and    Pia),  where  passports  are  visfed  both 
no    longer    tell    the    time '.  on  enteimg  an4Vea*in^V\«  ta-"n. 


Papal StaieB^  route  Ik — ^akcona.  123 

14- AvcxnrA  (Ant,  Albergo  Reale ;  |  roineof  Ancona,*'  gained  immortality. 
La  I^aee  or  the  Posta,  said  to  be  the  |  The  detailed  account  of  the  transac- 
best,  but  very  dirty ;  Gran  Bretagna,  I  tion  will  be  found  at  length  in  Sis< 
badly  Mtuated,  with  dirty  entrance,  I  mondi,  who  says  that,  observing  one 
but  clean  rooms. )  This  ancient  city  I  day  a  soldier  summoned  to  battle,  but 
still  retains  its  Greek  name,  descrip- ',  too  much  exhausted  to  proceed,  this 
live  of  the  angular  form  of  the '  young  and  beautiful  woman  refused 
Monte  Comero,  the  Cumerium  pro-  j  her  breast  to  the  child  she  suckled, 
montorium,  on  which  the  town  is  |  offered  it  to  the  warrior,  and  sent  him 
placed.  It  baa  the  best  harbour  on  the  .  forth  thus  refreshed  to  shed  his  blood 
Italian  shores  <^  the  Adriatic,  and  is ,  for  his  country.  Ancona  enjoyed  its 
the  most  important  naval  station  in  privileges  until  1532,  when  it  was  sur- 
the  States  of  the  Church.  The  city  is  '  prised  by  Gonzaga,  general  of  Clement 
beautifully  situated  on  the  slopes  of  a  VII.,  who  under  the  pretence  of  de- 
natural  amphitheatre,  spreading  be-  fending  it  against  the  incursions  of  the 
tween  the  two  p^montories  of  Monte  Turks,  erected  a  fort  and  filled  the  city 
Ciriaco  arid  Monte  Comero,  the  lat-  with  papal  troops.  The  first  result  of 
ter  of  which  is  also  known  as  Monte  this   measure   was  the   overthrow   of 


Guasco. 


the  aristocratic  constitution  which  had 


Ancona  is  supposed  to  have  been  prevailed  for  about  two  centuries;  the 
founded  by  a  Doric  colony,  or  by  the  ,  senators  or  Anziani  were  expelled,  the 
Syracusans  who  fled  from  the  tyranny  principal  nobles  were  banished,  and  the 
of  Dionysius.  It  was  a  famous  port  absolute  dominion  of  the  Holy  See  was 
of  the  liomans,  and  was  occupied  by  established  beyond  the  power  of  the 
Cvsar  after  the  passage  of  the  Rubicon. ,  inhabitants  to  resist  the  encroach- 
Its  importance  in  the  time  of  Trajan  !  ment.  From  that  time  it  has  remained 
11  proved  by  the  magnificent  works  attached    to    the    Church,   excepting 


undertaken  by  that  emperor,  and  still 
remaining  with  scarcely  any  change. 


during  those  periods  when   political 
convulsions  filled  Italy  with  the  armies 


It  was  one  of  the  cities  of  the  Penta-  of  the  north.  In  1798  it  was  seized  by 
polis,  and,  during  the  middle  ages,  sus-  the  French,  and  in  the  following  year 
tained  more  vicissitudes  than  almost ,  it  sustained  under  General  Meunier 
any  other  town  on  the  coast.  In  550  .  the  memorable  siege  which  terminated 
it  was  besieged  by  Totila,  king  of  the  '  in  its  surrender  to  the  allies,  after  a 
Goths  and  was  plundered  in  the  same  \  long  and  gallant  resistance.  Under  the 
century  by  tlie  Lombards,  who  placed  i  kingdom  of  Napoleon  it  was  the.  ca- 
ovvr  it  an  officer  whose  title  (mar-  !  pitid  of  the  department  of  the  Metau- 
chese)  gave  rise  to  the  general  name  !  rus;  but  in  1814  it  was  finally  settled 
of  the  March,  which  the  territory  of  on  the  Church  by  the  congress  of 
Ancona  still  retains.  After  having  re-  '  Vienna.  In  1832  it  was  again  occu- 
covered  from  the  sack  of  the  Saracens,  pied  by  the  French  to  balance  the 
it  became  a  free  city,  and  in  the  twelfth  Austrians  in  the  north,  and  was  not 
century  was  one  of  the  most  impor>  ■  evacuated  by  them  until  1838.  Dur- 
tant  cities  of  the  league  of  Lombardy.  '  ing  the  revolutionary  outbreak  of 
When  Frederick  Barliarossa,  in  1173,  \  1849,  it  was  besieged  and  bombarded 
sent  Christian,  archbishop  of  Mentz,  for  nine  or  ten  days  by  the  Austrians 
into  Italy  as  his  representative,  the  under  Marshal  WimpfTen,  to  whom 
warlike  prelate  succeeded  in  inducing  it  capitulated  on  the  18th  June,  and 
the  Ghibeline  cities  of  Tuscany  and  ,  on  the  following  day  the  forts  and  the 
Romagna  to  second  the  attack  upon  port  were  occupied  by  the  imperial 
Ancona,  which  he  commenced  during  ,  troops,  in  the  name  of  the  Pope, 
the  following  spring.  It  was  during ,  Ancona  is  now  the  capital  of  the 
the  famine  occasianed  by  this  siege  j  March,  andt\\eGVue^  c\X>]  o1aw\^v^^^^- 
thmt  the  young  mother,  called  the  "  he-  ]  tion  coinpTeY\ei\d\w^m  ^iA.ttv\.  ^w^i\x\^i' 


i 


I*       houteI*. — ANCONA — ArehofTmjan,Sfb.       [Sect.T,' 


and  W 


vated 


cily  and  iti  Miburbs  amounts  Ia35.(X 
ll  11  diTided  into  Iwo  partions,  I 
Ciui  VcechU  and  the  CitCa  Nuora ;  I 
furmer  occupies  the  highest  grou' 
«nd  is  iohabiied  by  ihe  poorer  cIbsm 
the  latter  u  ailiiiited  on   the   ]o« 


The 


itye< 


K,  badly  atrangcd,  and  the  uar- 

dreary  a.'ipect;  almost  the  only  eicep- 
tioD  being  the  nei*  line  oF  hnusea  an 
the  Marina,  begun  by  Pius  VI.      In 


■t'ge*.  ' 


is  rull  of 


1  interesting 

lua  objects  la  engage  tJie  aiteniion 
fcihe  tra»eHer, 

(  TTie  famous  PoH,  begun  by  Trajan 
at  of  ClviU  Vecchia,  is  one  of 
:  in  Italy:  it  was  enlarged  by 
t  XII.,  vho  made   it  a   Tree 


which   hod  declined   con- 

llerably  after  the  discovery  of  the 

o  India  by  the  Cape.    It  has 

!9t  one  erected  by  Tn^an,  the 

■rby  Clement  XII.     The  Trium- 

a  Arck  of  Trnjan,  which  has  been 

nounced  the  lincst  marble  arch  in 

orld,  ttands 


eriy  the 


irandsttilciogei: 
Hiing  around  it.      It  « 

iteration*  baye  left  it  elevated 
ie  quay,  and  consciiaently  it  is 
'  used  for  its  original  purjlose. 
Derb  monument  ia  construcled 
e  Grecian  marble  wilh- 

of  the  Corinthian  order.  Iiwaserected 
onour  of  Trajan,  >.i>.  112,  by  Pla- 
id Maroiana  his  sister; 
Lied  by  bronie  statues 
,ibies,  and  bas-reliefs,  iiut  all  these 
Jvo  disappeared,  and  its  marble  bas- 

leofits  decorstions.    llie  slQes 

ro  Corinthian  oolumni  elevated 

T  pedestals,  'and  the  attic  bears 

eoordingthen 


pojiiion,  combine  lumake  itoneof  tba 
most  imposing  monuments  nf  RattUD 
gnuideur  which  Italy  now  retains. 

The  H«D  Malt  a  also  decorated  with 
a  triumphal  aich  erected  by  Clement 
XII.,  li^am  the  designs  of  Vanvitelli, 
the  well-known  architect  of  the  palaca 
of  Caserta.  It  is  a  fine  example  of  the 
great  Roman  architect,  but  iu  effect, 
contrasted  with  that  of  the  arch  of 
Trajan,  is  somewhat  heavy.  Forsyth 
criticises  these  arches  in  the  following 
passage  :  —  "  The  ancient  part  of  the 
mole  is  crowned  by  Trajan's  arch,  and 
ihe  modern  by  a  pope's.      But  what 

arches?    And  what  busincsa  has  any 

suppose  a  triumph,  a  procnaion,  a 
road,  the  entry  into  a  city.    The  mole 

ment.  Here  an  historical  column 
like  his  own  might  have  risen  into  a 
Pharos,  at  once  la  record  '^his  naval 
merits,  to  illuminate  his  harbour, 
and  realise  the  compliment  wbioh 
the  senate  inscribed  on  thU  arch,  by 
making  tlie  access   to  Italy  safer  fur 

The  harbour  is  defended  by  several 
font!  one  was  built  by  Clement  VII. 
'inI53ii,  from  the  designs  DfAnlunto 
Sangulta,  enlurged  by  Cr^ory  XIII, 
in  1575,  and  improved  by  the   Ger- 

Near  the  Capuccini  is  another  fort, 
restored  by  Ihe  French  in  183S;  and 
other  strong  fortifications  oeoupy  Ibe 
heights  of  Moale  Pelago  and  Monte 
Cardeto.  Within  the  harbour,  in  a  OOD- 
venient  position  on  its  shores,  ia  the 
Lanarelln,  built  in  tbe  form  of  ■  pen- 
tagon by  Clement  XII.  in  1732,  and 
completed  by  Vanvitelli.  Its  domestie 
and  sanatory  arrangements  are  still  6a 
inferior  lo  those  of  Malta,  but  great 

the  establishmeut  of  the  Austrian 
steamers  between  Trieste  and  the 
Travellem   wl 


■>   of  If 


31ie 
narble,   the 


arkable  whitc- 

t  ptu-1 


to  land  at 


■tlolroil 


t\tpal  Siaies,'}     route  H. — ancoka. —  Churches. 


lis 


mneh  diortened  by  going  through  the 
SpogHot  as  it  is  called,  which,  instead 
of  being  disagreeable,  is  rather  plea- 
sant, as  the  person  is  merely  com- 
pelled to  take  a  bath,  and  have  each 
article  of  his  luggage  fumigated, 
which  is  kept  in  a  separate  room  for 
a  time,  but  is  perfectly  safe.  In  a 
quarantine  of  17  days,  travellers  would 
shorten  their  confinement  5  days  by 
this  arrangement. 

The  Cathedral^  dedicated  to  S.  Ciri- 
aco,  the  first  bishop  of  Ancona  when 
it  was  made  a  see  in  362,  stands  on 
an   eminence  overlooking    the   town 
and  harbour,  and  occupies  the  site  of 
the  ancient  temple  of  Venus,  round 
which  the  original  town  is  supposed 
to  have  been  built.     This  temple  is 
mentioned  by  Juvenal,  Sat  iv.,  in  a 
passage  expressive  of  the  Greek  origin 
of  the  city,  which  will  be  found  quoted 
In  the  next  page.     The  present  Ca- 
thedral is  an  edifice  of  the  tenth  cen- 
tury, with  the  exception  of  the  fa9ade, 
which  is  said  to  be  the  work  of  Mar- 
garitone  of  Arczzo  in  the  thirteenth 
century.     The  columns  of  the  ancient 
temple  have  contributed  to  the  embel- 
lishment of  the  Christian  church  ;  and 
independently   of   the    fine   prospect 
which  its  elevated  position  commands, 
its  architectural  and  other  relics  will 
repay  the  trouble  of  the  ascent.     The 
exterior  of  the  edifice  was  once  orna- 
mented with  a  wheel  window,  which  is 
now  closed  up,  but  the  Gothic  door- 
way  still   remains,   and  is  a  superb 
example  of  its  kind.      It  has  nine  co- 
lumns and  a  pointed   arch,  the  first 
fiieze  of  which  has  thirty-one  busts  of 
saints ;  the  second  has  grotesque  ani- 
mals and  other  similar  devices.      I1ic 
projecting  porch  is  supported  by  four 
columns,  the  two  outer  resting  on  co- 
lossal lions  of  red  marble;  on  one  side 
of  the  inner  vault  of  the  porch  are  an 
angel  and  a  winged  lion,  and  on  the 
other    an   eagle   with    a  book   and  a 
winged  bull ;  on  the  left  of  the  porch 
are  several  bas-reliefs  of  saints.      The 
interior  exliibits  the  fine  columns  of  the 
temple  of  Venus;   the  two  naves  or 
Mtde  aisles  are  ascended  by  sf  cps,    llie 


cupola  is  octangular,  and  is  considered 
by  D*Agincourt  as  the  oldest  in  Italy. 
In  one  of  the  subterranean  churches 
is  a  splendid  sarcophagus  of  Titus 
Gorgonius,  praetor  of  Ancona.  In  the 
other  are  the  tombs  of  St.  Ciriaco  and 
two  other  sidnts,  a  copy  of  the  Pieta 
of  Genoa,  and  portraits  of  Pius  VI. 
and  VII.  In  a  chapel  above  is  a 
painting  by  Podesttj  representing  the 
martyrdom  of  S.  Lorenzo;  and  in  an- 
other, over  the  monument  of  the  Villa 
family,  is  a  fine  portrait  of  a  child  by 
Tibaldi,  The  Giannelli  monument  is 
an  interesting  specimen  of  the  cinque 
cento  style:  that  of  Lucio  Basso  is 
also  worthy  of  examination.  In  ad- 
dition to  these  objects,  the  church 
contains  a  fine  repetition  of  the  Ma- 
donna of  Sassoferrato. 

The  Church  of  S.  Francescone,  now 
a  hospital,  has  a  very  rich  Gothic 
doorway,  with  a  pointed  arch  and  a 
projecting  transom  covered  with  heads 
of  saints.  The  canopy  is  of  great  rich- 
ness, containing  statues  of  saints  in 
niches,  surmounted  by  fretwork  pin- 
nacles ;  the  arch  is  an  imitation  of  the 
escalop  shell. 

S.  Agnstino  has  another  rich  door- 
way, in  which  Corinthian  columns  are 
introduced,  exhibiting  an  interesting 
example   of  the   transition   from   the 
Gothic  to  the  classic  style.      It  is  the 
only  vestige  of  its  Gothic  architecture, 
for  the  interior  was  entirely  rebuilt  by 
Vanvitelli.  The  fine  picture  of  St.  John 
baptizing,  by  Tibaldi,  was  painted  for 
Giorgio  Morato,  the  Armenian  mer- 
chant, who  first  brought  the  artist  to 
the  city.     But  the  principal  works  in 
the  church  are    by  Lilio,   known   as 
Andrea  di  Ancona,  a  ))ainter  of  the 
Roman  school  in  the  last  century,  a 
i  pupil  and  imitator  of  Baroccio ;   his 
1  best  production  is  the  Madonna  crown- 
I  ing  St.  Nicholas  of  Tolentino.      llie 
'  sacristy   contains  fourteen  small  pic- 
I  tures  illustrating  the  history   of  the 
saint   by   the   same   hand.      Tiic    St. 
:  Francis  praying  icf  mentioned  by  Lanzi 
■  as  one  of  the  best  vj-oxVs  o^  RoivcaUx. 
'       Sta»    Maria   d^-Uu    P'uizxa   «^\^\Vs 
;  the  most  cuuou^  v'^o^x^jj'eXv^^  oS.  ^si"CwNa 


I    ornament      Its  small  Tagade  baa  three 
parallel  lows  of  round- headed  arcbeE, 
iriched  mouldi 


low   ColuDinB 

rinthmn  o 


n  of  il 


ofihe  I 
lobem. 
but  tliey  0 


tSeeK' 


,Co. 


le  door  has  Ukemse 
a  round-beaded  arch,  with  knotted 
columna.  The  frieEe  is  full  of  birds, 
siumala,  grotesque  figures  and  leaves ; 


rch.    Anil 


>'i>hed 


11  the  decorations  of  this  chi 

which  deserve  to  be  perpetuated  b; 

ectural  diaugbtsman.      Tbe 

iDtaios  a  pioture  of  tlie  Ma- 

dunna  going  to  tbc  temple  in  child- 

Jiood,  >  Gne  example  of  the   Roniaii 

'    inintei  Biarco  Bcxefial;  and  a  Virgin 

aneJ,  by  IjmHto  Lotto,  ttie  Vene- 

S.  Domcnico  was  rebuilt  in  178B:  it 

itains  B  CnioiGxion  b;  TVfuia.  and 

^Bve  nf  Rinalda  degU  Albiiii, 

fbe  rital  of  Coimo  de'  JVledici,  who 

died  here  in  exile  in  1425.     A  simple 

sription   reeordiiig   his   name  and 

'  the  jrear  of  bis  death  is  the  onl;  mo- 

I  oument  of  the  great  Flurentlne.    The 
[  diureh  contains  also  the  tombs  of  I'ar- 

I I  eagnota  the  bUtorian,  and  of  Marullo 
r  the  poeL 

S.  FrancescB  contains  three  intis'ett- 
iDg  paintings:  a  lUadonna  by  Titian, 
.jaiuted  in  1520  far  Aloysa  Gozzi  of 
Bagusa;  an  Annunciation  by  Guida; 
rad  a  Cmcilixian  by  Bellini. 

f'by  Guerciaa,  representing  the  saint 
Uid  an  angel ;  the  chureb  uf  the 
ferghu  ddla  Miiericordla  lias  a  euri- 
jnted  with  fruits,  and 

'presenting    anotber    example   of   the 
"^Jvnaition  period. 

Hu  Loggia  dc'  Mercanti,  or  Ex- 
change, is  another  remarkable  adapta- 
tion of  Gothic  architecture,  designed 
by  Tibaldi,  who  covered  the  interior 
with  productions  of  his  pencil.  The 
arnaments  of  its  facade  are  most  ela- 


The  Priiam  are  surpassed  i 
only  by  those  of  Civita  Veccb 
".lolelo.  They  will  bold  450 
natsj    the   number   nctuallj.  confined 

nerally  exceeds  400. 

Tile  Jews  settled  at  Ancana  a 


difficult  to  trace  tbem, 
The  Palaiio  dil  Gortrno  con 
small  gallery  of  pictures,  and 
residence  of  the  legate.  The  J 
Frrrrtti  afibids  a  fine  example 
twofold  powers  of  Tibaldi,  as 
chitect  and  painter.      The  Fitaxa  iS 


Clement  XII 

less 

mi 

arfcable  as  a 

work  of  art  tb 

morialoftbe 

■enefils   confe 

the  city  bj- 

ff. 

The  Ibnn- 

ain  called  dd  Cobim 

IS 

the  work  dt 

goguc 


separate  quar 


ft  sjr 


called 


such  restricliona  as  the  Jews  of 
It    is    one   of  the    characterisi 
Ancona  thai  all  religious  sects  et^f 
complete  toleration. 

Ancana  is  the  birthplace  of 

mentioned  Carlo  Maratta;  the 
Cavallo  (praised  by  Ariosto),  Leonb,< 
and  Ferretti  {  the  pbllosupher  Sc       '  ' 


"  It  would  be  ungallant,"  says  Foi^ 
ith,  "  to  pass  through  Ancona  with* 
A  paying  homage  to  the  mnltiiuda 
r  fine  women  whom  you  meet  tha'e. 
(■berever  there  is  wealth  or  erei 
irt  in  Italy,  the  sex  runs  naturally- 
Lto  beauty ;  nnd  where  should  beauty 
i  found  if  not  here  — 


The    diligi 


1  for 


1  Tuesdays  at  noon,  nnd  on 
cenia  eburacter.      The  bas-relie&  arel  Saturdays  at  9  r.u. ;  and  for  Ferrara 
Eud   by    Vasari    to  lie   the  work   uf|  and  Bologna  on  Tuesdays  at  noon,  and 
Moerio.    The  roof  is  covered  with  the  I  on  Saturdays  at  midnight. 
I      tuperb  frescoes  of  Tibaldi,  represent-         The    steamers    belonging 
L/i^  Hercules  taming  the  raouslera.  LToj/iTs    ,4u.strioe»  \«a-se    An 

"'         "  ■     •  ■    i  I  Cuifu,  Palraa,  Sji 


I    Jiear  llie  cathedral  ai 


k,   ^ftiClB,  6i 


n^al  Siaie$,2  boutb  15.— ancona  to  foligno. —^Zore^t.  127 


Constantinople*  and  Alexandria,  on 
tbe  Snd  and  17  th,  and  return  to  Trieste 
on  the  18th  and  Srd  of  every  month, 
depending  of  course  on  the  weather. 
There  is  also  a  steamer  twice  or  thrice 
a  month  between  Trieste  and  Ancona. 
It  is  poasible  to  pursue  the  journey 
from  Ancona  direct  to  Naples,  without 
passing  through  Rome.  This  route 
will  be  described  ih  the  Handbook 
lor  Southern  Italy. 

ROUTE  15. 

AKCONA    TO    FOLIO  NO,    BY    LORKTO, 
MACXaATA,  AKD  TOLEMTIMO. 


nise  the  classical   Auximum  in  the 
modem  name.    Lucan  mentions  it  as 


Ancona  to  Osimo 
Osimo  to  LfOreto 
Loreto  to  Recanati   - 
Recanati  to  Sambucheto    - 
Sambucheto  to  Macerata   - 


PcMts. 

-  H 

-  1 

-  ^ 

-  oi 

-  1 


Macerata  to  Tolentino        -         -  H 

Tolentino  to  Valcimara     -         -  1 
Valcimara      to      Fonte      della 

Trave  -         -         -         -  i 

Fonte  della  Trave  to  Scrravalle  1 

Serravallc  to  Case  Nu  ..ve  -  1 

Case  Nuove  to  Folignu     -         -  1 

Hi, 


Inns:  OsimOt  Posta  ;  Loreto,  Cam- 
paiia,  Posta ;  Hecatuiti,  Corona ;  Ma- 
cerata La  Pace  ( Post)  Monachese ; 
ToUnttHO,  Corona;  La  Muccia  (vettu- 
rino  inn)  I^conc;  Foligno,  Tre  Mori, 
Grande  Albergo,  Posta 

The  high  post  road  from  Ancona  to 
Loreto  strikes  inland  on  leaving  the 
town,  and  ascends  the  hills  to  Osimo; 
but  there  is  another  very  hilly  but 
more  direct  road  following  the  coast, 
without  approaching  it,  through  Ca- 
merano  and  Crocclle,  a  drive  of  about 
three  hours  through  a  highly  culti- 
vated and  pretty  country :  the  latter  is 
generally  followed  by  the  vetturini. 

IJ  Osimo  (//tn,  1^  Posta).  An  ad- 
ditional lionic  is  reiiuired  from  Ancona 
to  Ohimo,  but  not  vice  vend.  Osimo  is 
a  town  of  high  antiquity,  and  is  con- 
sidered by  many  to  have  been  the 
cmpitml  of  I'iccauliu    We  easily  rccog- 


**  Admotc  pulsarunt  Auximon  alee.'* 

Belisarius  nearly  lost  his  life  in  the 
siege  of  Osimo;  the  arrow  from  its 
walls  must  have  transpierced  him  "  if 
the  mortal  stroke  had  not  been  inter- 
cepted by  one  of  his  guards,  who  lost 
in  that  pious  office  the  use  of  his  hand." 
—  See  Gibbon^  xli.  I'he  modern  town 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile 
and  beautiful  country,  and  from  its 
great  elevation  it  is  a  position  of  extra- 
ordinary strength.  Tlie  cathedral  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Tecia  :  it  is  a  place  of 
some  sanctity  as  containing  the  body 
of  S.  Giuseppe  di  Copertino.  In  the 
Casa  Galli,  Roncalli  painted  a  fresco  of 
the  Judgment  of  Solomon,  considered 
by  Lanzi  to  be  his  best  performance  of 
that  class;  and  in  the  Church  of  Sta. 
Palazia  a  picture  of  that  saint,  also 
pronounced  by  the  same  authority  to 
be  one  of  his  finest  works.  The  Palazzo 
Pubblico  has  a  small  museum  of  an- 
cient statues  and  inscribed  stones,  dug 
up  from  the  foundations  of  the  Roman 
city.  Leaving  Osimo,  the  road  turns 
again  towards  the  coast,  and  the  Mu- 
sone  is  crossed  immediately  below  the 
I  hill  of  Loreto. 

j      1  Loreto  ( Inns,  La  Campana ;   La 
!  Posta;   Gemelli's  Hotel  is  said  to  be 
,  very  clean  and  reasonable,  with  a  civil 
'  landlord).  Tliis  small  city,  whose  entire 
circuit  may  be  made  in  less  than  half 
an  hour,  has  obtained  a  higher  cele- 
I  brity  as  a  religious  sanctuary  than  any 
i  other  on  the   map   of  Christendom. 
,  For  upwards  of  five  centuries  Loreto 
has  been  the  great  place  of  i)ilgriinage 
!  of  the  Catholic  church,  and  the  most 
I  pious  pontiffs  and  the  most  ambitious 
,  monarchs  have  swelled  the  crowd  of 
'  votaries  whom  its  fame  and  sanctity 
have   drawn   together   from    the    re- 
motest  parts  of  the  Christian  world. 
'  The  original  name  of  the  town  was 
the  Villa  di  Sta.  Maria;  it  was  after- 
wards called  the  Castello  di  Sta    Ma- 
ria ;  and  the  present  name  is  derived 
either  from  a  ^tonc  o?  \«lwxAs\v\nj\\\^ 
I  the  Santa  Casa  w  «j\^  \^i  \\w^  \«iis\R^^ 


»60TlE  15.-»-A»C0!»*  Tt 

-n  the  person  to  whom  the  grote 

■bdonged.    The  fbunilHtioti  dales  jroni 

the  lUIh  Deccniber.  1394,  ID  the  pou- 

lIGcileof  CdestinV..  when  the  Santa 

Cisa    arrived  from    Nniareth.      The 

I         tradition   nf  the  church  relates  that 

^^^it  sscrad  house  was  the  birthplace 

^H&C  thu  Virgin,  the  scone  of  the  An- 

^^^■iDeiatioii  and  Incarnation,  as  irell  as 

^■bltilaccwlienitheHDl;  Familyfound 

jH^BBlter  after  the  Hight  out  of  EgypL 

III      Hie  house  was  held  in  extraordinary 

veneration  throughout  Palestine  after 

the  pilgrimage  of  the  Empress  Heleoa, 

who  built  atei  it  a  nugniil^ent  temple 

sring  the  inscrtplioo  "  Hicc  est  ara, 

qua  prima  jactnm  est  humans  sa- 

pHa  AindamenEum."   The  tame  of  the 

pietiiarr   drew    man;    or  the   early 

ong  these  pilgrims  was  St.  Louia 

|'Friiiio&    The  subsequent  inroads  i>r 

ie  Saracena  into  the  Holy  Land  led 

gthe  destruction  of  the  basilica  nhich 

ad  eracted ;  and  the  legend 

I  state  that  by  a  miracle  the 

s  conveyed   by  angels  from 

to  the  coast  of   Ualmatia, 

was   deposited    at   a   place 

is  placed  by 


,d  the  Virgin 
3  St  Nicholas 
r  Tolentino,  to  announce  its  arrival 
RiithfuL  Afler  three  times 
changing  its  position,  the  Sania  Casa 
at  length  fined  itself,  in  1S9S, 


Thei 


of  pilgrims  soon  created  Ihe  necsssitj 
~*~  means  of  accommodation,  end  by 
d  of  the  inhabitants  of 
:anati  the  foundations  of  the  pre- 
were  speedil/  laid.  Loreto 
lity  in  1586,  when  SixlusV, 
rounded  it  with  walls,  to  rcast  the 
■oks  of  Turkish  pirates,  who  were 
ipted  by  the  known  riches  of  the 
ilaary  lo  make  frequent  descents 
1  the  coast. 

e   rilyia   built  on  a  hiJI,  about 
utiles  from  the  sea,  commaading 


>.—Lorao.      fSert.n^ 

rounding  country  and  visible  lo 
mariner  fbr  a  distance  of  many  leagues  I 
from  the  coast.  It  ma;  he  said  lo  be  ' 
composed  of  one  long  and  nai 
street,  filled  with  shops  for  the  sale  of  j 
crowns,  medals,  and  pictures  of 
"  Madonna  di  Loreio  ;"  a  trade  which 
is  said  to  produce  an  annual  rctui 
from  BO,ODO  to  100,000  pauls.  On 
first  entering  the  town  the  travell 
almost  led  to  imagine  that  it  ia 
pled  with  beggars,  (br  he  is  at 
beset  with  appeals  to  his  charity  and 
piety, —  ft  singular  contrast  to  a  shrine 
rich  in  gold  and  diamonds :  but  it  a 
remarkable  that  there  is  no  poTertj 
so  apparent  as  that  met  with  in  tba 
great  saocluarles  of  Italy. 

The  piazza  in  which  Ihecburi 
Htuated  is  occupied  on  one  side  by  the 
convent  of  Jesuits,  and  on  the  other 
by  the  noble  palace  of  the  govei 
erected  from  the  designs  of  Bramante, 
In  the  middle  is  the  fine  bronie  st 
of  Siitus  v.,  representing  him  seated 
and  giving  his  benediction :  it  is  the  . 
work  of  CJcagni  of  Recanati,  pupil  of 
Girolamo  Lombardo  of  Siena,  in  1 

The  Church  called  the  Chitia 
Santa  Caia  occupies  the  third  side  of  ' 
Ihe  square.  Its  fagade,  built  hy  Sii-  , 
lus  v.,  is  in  the  worst  possible  taste. 
Over  the  grand  door  is  ihe  fuU  length 
hronie  statue  of  the  Vii^in  and  Child 
by    Giroiamtf    Lombardo.      Hie    great 

three  superb  hronie  doors,  inferioi 
only  (0  those  of  John  of  Bologna  ir 
the  Duomo  of  Pisa.  The  central 
one  was  cast  by  ihe  fouraonsof  Gin 
lamo  Lombardo,  in  the  sixteenth 
century.  It  is  divided  into  com] 
ments,  containing  bas-reliefe  illus 
Ing  various  events  in  the  history  of 
the  Old  Testament,  from  the  crci  " 
to  the  flight  of  Cain,  wiih  symbolical 
representations  of  Uie  progress  and 
triumphs  of  Ihe  Church.  The  leR 
door  was  cast  by  Tiburaa  VcneBi,  of 
Camerino,  also  a  pupil  of  the  elder  , 
Lombardo.  It  represents,  amidst  the 
richer  Btahesques  and  figures  of  pro. 

Old  and  New  ■Emtamen.lajWJB.fcitnpA 


Papal  Staiet.']  routb  W-^akcona  to  vouQifo.-^Loreto.  129 


•s  to  make  every  symbol  of  the  old 
law  a  figure  of  the  new.  The  right 
door  is  the  work  of  Calcagni,  assisted 
by  Jacometti  and  Sebastian!,  also  na- 
tiTes  of  Recanati.  It  represents,  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  preceding, 
different  events  of  both  Testaments. 
These  fine  works  were  finished  in  the 
pontificate  of  Paul  V.  The  campa- 
nile was  designed  by  Vanvitelli,  and 
finished  in  the  pontificate  of  Benedict 
XIV.  It  is  of  great  height,  and  ex- 
hibits a  combination  of  the  four  or- 
ders. It  is  surmounted  by  an  octa- 
gonal pyramid,  and  contains  a  bell 
said  to  weigh  22,000  lbs.,  cast  by 
Bernardino  da  Rimini  in  1516,  at  the 
expense  of  Leo  X. 

On  entering  the  church,  the  vault 
of  the  middle  aisle  presents  various 
paintings  of  the  prophets  in  chiaros- 
curo by  Luca  Signordli;  the  last  three 
towards  the  arch  above  the  high 
altar  are  the  work  of  Criaiofano  Ron- 
€aUi. 

The  great  attraction  and  wonder  of 
the  church  is  the  Santa  Casa,  and 
the  marble  casing  in  which  it  is  in- 
closed. The  Santa  Casa  is  a  small 
brick  house,  1 9  Roman  palms  4  inches 
in  height,  42*10  in  length,  and  18*4 
in  breadth.  It  has  a  door  in  the  north 
side,  and  a  window  on  the  west ;  its 
construction  is  of  the  rudest  kind, 
and  its  general  form  is  that  of  the 
humblest  dwelling.  Over  the  window 
is  pointed  out  the  ancient  cross  and 
from  the  vault  of  the  outer  case  are 
suspended  the  two  bells  said  to  have 
belonged  to  the  house'  itself.  The 
original  floor  is  entirely  wanting, 
having  been  lost,  it  is  said,  during  the 
miraculous  passage  from  Nazareth  ; 
the  present  floor  is  composed  of 
squares  of  white  and  red  marble.  In 
a  niche  above  the  fire-place  is  the 
celebrated  statue  of  the  Virgin,  re- 
puted to  be  sculptured  by  St  Luke. 
It  is  said  to  be  of  the  cedar  wood  of 
Lebanon,  and  is  quite  black  with  age. 
The  height  of  the  Virgin  is  4  palms, 
that  of  the  Child  is  1  palm  8  inches. 
The  Bgurea  both  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child  mre  JJtenlJjr  resplendent  with 


jewels,  the  effect  of  which  is  increased 
by  the  light  of  the  silver  lamps  which 
are  constantly  burning  before  the 
shrine.  It  would  be  tedious  to  at- 
tempt the  enumeration  of  the  various 
relics  and  treasures  contained  in  the 
Santa  Casa;  among  the  former  are 
two  pots  of  terra  cotta,  said  to  have 
belonged  to  the  Holy  Family :  they 
were  covered  with  gold  plates  pre- 
vious to  the  French  invasion,  but  only 
one  now  retains  them.  On  the  south- 
ern wall,  fixed  with  iron  cramps,  is  a 
stone  of  the  Santa  Casa,  taken  away 
by  the  Bishop  of  Coimbra  in  the  time 
of  Paul  III.,  and  restored  in  conse- 
quence of  the  loss  of  health  he  suf- 
fered while  it  remained  in  his  posses- 
sion. On  the  same  wall  is  another 
singular  offering,  a  cannon  ball  con- 
secrated to  the  Virgin  by  the  warlike 
Julius  II.,  in  remembrance  of  his 
preservation  at  the  siege  of  Mirandola, 
in  1505.  Hompesch,  the  grand  mas> 
ter  of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  and  the 
family  of  Plater  of  Wilna,  so  well 
known  in  the  history  of  the  Polish 
struggle  for  independence,  are  also  re- 
markable for  their  presents.  In  less 
than  a  year  after  the  short-lived  peace 
of  Tolentino  the  French  took  Loreto, 
sacked  the  town  and  sanctuary,  and 
carried  the  statue  of  the  Virgin  a 
prisoner  to  Paris.  It  is  recorded  that 
the  conquerors  deposited  the  statue  in 
the  cabinet  of  medals  in  the  great 
library  of  Paris,  where  it  was  placed 
immediately  over  a  mummy  and  ex- 
hibited to  the  public  as  one  of  the 
curiosities  of  that  scientific  collection  ! 
On  its  restoration  in  1801,  the  papal 
commissioner  refused  to  have  it  in< 
voiced,  lest  it  might  derogate  from 
the  peculiar  sanctity  which  had  marked 
its  previous  wanderings. 

Tlie  Fodera  or  Marble  Casing  which 
incloses  tlic  Santa  Casa  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  monuments  of  the 
best  times  of  art.  It  was  designed  by 
Bramante,  and  worked  by  Andrea 
Sansovino,  Girolamo  Lombardo,  Ban- 
dincUi,  John  o?  \io\o^w«i,  la>ai^\<^.\civ\ 
della  PoTla,  B.«LffaviV  ^«.  ^\^'cv\s\\iv^ 
Francesco  SangaWo,  'i^X^t^icXo  Tx^v^vi, 


RCUTK  15. — ASCONA  TO  FOtlGNO. — LmVlo.       t^C^-^- 


Simone  Cioli,  anJ  other  eminent  ar- 
tisti  of  the  t>Briud.  Tbe  muteriBU 
(br  Ibii  great  work  were  prBpated  in 
1510  under  Julius  II.,  Iha  work  wii. 
begun  under  Leo  X.,  continued  under 
Clement  VII.,  and  finiahed  in  the 
pODtilieate  of  Paul  111.  It  has  four 
4onti  of  white  marble  covered  with 
alplutes  ill  relief. 
1.    Thi    Watint  front  presents  us 

>i$n  wliioh  the  Angel  Gabriel,  kneeling 
in  tbe  sir,  surrounded  hj  ■  crowd  of 

'  hia  taisatm.      The  deUik  oT 

iderful   work,    which    Varari 

divina  ojKra,  are  be- 

Uld  dewriptioD  :  the  figure  of  Ca- 

rid  leems  perfccily  celeslial,  and  the 

[presdon   of  the  angels  is  of  extra. 

tdinarx  delicacy  and  beauty.      Tlit 

Me  of  Bowers  introduced  in  the  fore- 

inound  was  much  admired  by  VasarL 

'  iblie  smaller  taUets,  representing  tbe 

I'Tlaitation,    and    St.  Joseph  and   the 

Virgin  in  Bethleliem,  are  by  SmgaOo. 

At  the  Hngles  are  figures  of  the  pro- 

Iphels  Jeremiah  snd  Eiekiel ;  the  for- 

imer  is  au  expressive  work  lA  SamotiinB, 

the   latter   is  by  his  pupil  Girolanm 

.Lamhordo.      In  the  niches  above  ats 

i4ie    Libyan   and    Persian    sibyls   by 

^agSebao  dtlht  Porta. 

S.  The  Southem  front  has  another 
ijld  production  of  SaaaoBino,  tlm 
itivily,  io  which  the  shepherds,  the 
UKela,  and  the  other  figures  are  rc- 
ptesented  with  eitrHordinpry  miniite- 
ilieis  and  truth.  The  David  with  the 
.bead  of  Goliath  at  his  feet,  and  tbe 
jirophet  Malachi,  are  by  Giralaaia 
'/j/mbOTdoi  the  Cumecaii  and  Delphic 
ajbyls  are  by  GitglietmB  drUa  Porta. 
Slie  Adoration  of  the  Magi  was  bc- 
'^n  by  Saatorina,  and  finished  by 
Buff^b  da  ilontetupo  and  Oirolamo 
i.o«tbardo.  The  figures  uf  boys  orer 
the  iirsl  door  are  attributed  to  Sinume 
Maca,  and  those  over  the  Porta  del 
Suito  Citmino  are  by  Simmi  CiaS. 

3.  Tkt  Eatten  fraut  has  the  fine 
hu-reliefby  flffeealo  I'ribolo,  represent- 
Hg-  the  arrival  of  the  Santa  Cssa  it 
Preto,  Mod  the  effect  of  it*  suddm 


appearance  on  the  people.  The  attack 
of  the  robbers  in  the  wood,  tlie  sur- 
prise of  the  countryman,  and  the 
peasant  whistling  to  his  loaded  hone, 
are  maneilous  eiamplesof  thepowen 
of  art.  Tbe  bas-relief  above  repre- 
sents the  death  of  the  Virgin  and  her 
burial  by  the  apottles.  llie  four 
angels  in  the  clouds  and  the  party  of 
Jews  endenvouring  to  steal  the  body 
are  full  of  eipression.  It  was  begul 
by  TtUkJu  and  finished  by  l^arigntmo 
of  Bologna.  The  prophet  Balaam  ii 
supposed  to  be  the  work  of  Fra  Au- 
nlio,  brollier  of  Girolamo  Lombardot 
The  Moses  is  by  Ddia  Porta,  as  are 
also  the  Samian  and  Cumsan  aibyU. 
4.  The  Noiihem  front  is  orna- 
mented with  a  bas-relief  representing 
tbe  Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  bepn  by 
Sanioviso,  continued  by  Bacdo 
dindli,  and  finished  by  Saffadi  da 
Uontelajia.  The  figures  iutroi' 
into  the  composition  eipress  tlie  seven 
virtues  of  the  Virgin.  —  innocence, 
fidelity,  humility,  cliarity,  obedi 
modesty,  and  love  of  retirement- 
line  bas-relief  of  the  Spotilizio,  b  ^ 
by  Sasmmno  and  continued  by  Raf- 
fatte  da  iloBlelupa,  has  a  remark 
group  affit^res  introduced  by  Ni 
Triholo!  tbe  most  striking  of  these 
figures  ia  the  man  in  a  passion  break- 
ing a  withered  bough.  The  prophet 
Daniel  is  by  Fra  Jar^lio  Leinbardo. 
the  prophet  Amos,  with  the  shepherd', 
stajf  in  his  hand  and  bis  dog  at  hi 
feet,  is  by  Ciro.'oiBD  Lnmbardo,  his 
brother.  The  Phrygian  sibyl  ai ' 
■iby!  of  Tivoli  are  by  Guglielsio  ddla 
Porta,  The  boys  over  the  door 
attributed  to  Simone  Uoaca  and  Sm 
daU.  These  sculptures,  with 
ornaments  on  the  ijrieie  and  the  fei- 
tuons  between  the  columns  by  Mc 
complete  the  catalogue  of  bas-relieft 
whieh  piety  and  art  tiave  lavished 
the    external    casing    of    the     8a] 


■n.i»  mag 
perfect  museum  of  scol 
to  have  cost  50,000  Hon 
dcpcndent\]  of  t.\ui  sCni' 
of  the  rnu^Ae,   onCi  'i 


ork,  which  is 


Pagfol  StcOet,']  ROUT£  15- — Ancona  to  foI/IGno, — Loreto.  ISl 


the  workmen,  which  amounted  to 
10^000  scudi  more.  This  expense 
might  have  been  greatly  increased  if 
many  of  the  artists  and  workmen  had 
not  given  their  gratuitous  services. 

The  next  ohject  which  attracts  at- 
tention is  the  Baptistry,  a  superb 
work  in  bronze,  cast  by  Tiburzio  Ver- 
tdii  and  GiobattiUa  FitalL  It  is  co- 
Tered  with  bas-reliefs  of  extraordinary 
merit,  relating  to  the  sacrament  of 
baptism,  and  is  surmounted  by  the 
figure  of  St.  John  baptising  the  Sa- 
viour. Among  these  bas-reliefs  may 
be  mentioned  St  John  baptising  in 
the  Jordan,  the^Circumcision,  Naaman 
cured  of  his  leprosy,  Christ  curing 
the  blind,  St.  Philip  and  the  Eunuch, 
&c.  The  four  female  figures  at  the 
angles  of  the  vase,  illustrating  the 
history  of  the  Santa  Casa,  under  the 
symbols  of  Faith,  Hope,  Charity,  and 
Perseverance,  are  worthy  of  attentive 
study. 

The  chapels  of  this  nave  are  mostly 
ornamented  with  fine  mosaics  from  the 
paintings  of  the  great  masters.  Among 
these  are  the  S.  Francesco  d'Assisi  of 
Domenichino,  and  the  Archangel  Mi- 
chael <^  Guido,  from  the  celebrated 
picture  in  the  Capuccini  at  Rome. 
In  the  last  chapel  is  a  mosaic  copy  of 
the  Last  Supper,  by  Simon  Vouet, 
tlie  original  of  which  is  in  the  palace 
of  the  governor. 

In  the  opposite  nave,  the  first  chapel 
descending  the  church  contains  the 
fine  bas>relicf  of  the  Deposition  in 
Uronxe,  called  also  the  Pieta,  by  Cal- 
eagni,  and  four  bronze  female  portraits 
of  the  &milies  of  Massilla  and  Rogati, 
to  whom  the  chapel  belongs,  by  the 
same  artist.  Several  of  the  other 
chapels,  like  those  of  the  opposite 
side,  are  ornamented  with  mosaics, 
among  which  are  the  Conception  and 
the  Sposalizio,  by  Carlo  Maratta;  in 
the  chapel  containing  these  are  two 
frescoes  representing  the  Sposalizio 
and  the  Presentation  in  the  Temple, 
by  Lombardeili. 

In  the  first  chapel  of  the  left  <  rosa 

muU  is  the  copy  in  mosaic  of  a  painting 

bjr  Angetiea  Kaufftnann;  Uie  second 


has  some  paintings  by  Lorenzo  lA)tto  ; 
and  the  third,  called  the  Annunziata 
del  Duca,  from  having  been  erected 
by  Francesco  Maria  II.  duke  of  Ur- 
bino,  contains  a  mosaic  of  the  Annun- 
ciation of  Baroccio,  copied  from  the 
Vatican  picture.  The  frescoes  of  the 
chapel  were  painted  by  Federigo  Zuc- 
eari  in  1583.  The  rich  arabesques,  il- 
lustrative of  the  origin  of  the  house  of 
Rovere,  are  fine  specimens  of  art,  and 
deserve  to  be  carefully  studied.  The 
Sagrestia  delta  Cura  is  painted  in  fresco 
by  Luca  SignoreUi ;  the  arabesques  and 
other  sculptures  of  the  presses  or 
Armadj,  and  the  intaglio  of  the  lava- 
mono  are  believed  to  be  the  work  of 
Benedetto  da  MajanOf  the  celebrated 
Florentine  architect  and  sculptor  of 
the  sixteenth  century.  The  large  oil 
painting  of  St.  Louis  of  France  is  by 
Charles  le  Brun,  The  bronze  kneeling 
figure  of  Cardinal  Gaetani  is  the  work 
of  Calcagni,  assisted,  it  is  said,  by  Ja- 
cometti.  In  the  upper  part  of  this 
cross  aisle  the  first  chapel  contains 
the  mosaic  copy  of  the  Nativity  of  the 
Virgin  by  Annibale  Caracci,  reputed 
the  finest  work  of  its  class  in  the 
church.  The  second,  called  the  chapel 
della  Marca,  contains  a  fresco  sup- 
posed to  be  by  Pietro  da  Cortonay  re- 
presenting Godfrey  in  arms  and  'I'an- 
cred  wounded  at  the  siege  of  Jeru- 
salem :  it  has  also  the  tomb  of  Cardinal 
Visconti,  of  the  family  of  the  ancient 
Dukes  of  Milan.  The  third  chapel  is 
ornamented  with  a  mosaic  copy  of  the 
celebrated  picture  of  the  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin  by  Fra  Bartolommeo. 
The  paintings  on  the  vault  representing 
the  Nativity,  the  Circumcision,  the 
Transfiguration,  the  Preaching  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  and  his  Martyrdom, 
are  by  Pellegrino  TibaUU.  Over  the 
door  of  the  Sacristy  of  the  Chapter  is 
the  figure  of  St.  Luke  in  glazed  terra 
cotta ;  and  over  that  of  the  otiicr  s{i- 
cristy  is  the  figure  of  St.  Matthew  in 
the  same  style,  both  interesting  works 
of  Luca  del/a  Robbia, 

In    the   rifiKt   side  oiale^  \.\\^  ^xs\. 
chapel  has  a  moasAC  co^^^j  o\  W\^N\s\\- 
ation  by  Barocc\o  \  \\a  v'^vsv>i;vcv^  ^x'^ 


noOTE  15. — ASCOKA  TO  FOLiGNo. — Lofeto.       ^Sect.  r. 


132 

by  AfW^Jano.  The  seronil,  csUeU  Ihe 
liussria,  is  pointed  by  Guspaiiai  o( 
Maivrita;  and  the  tli'ird,  Dciginally . 
called  lliH  L-hapel  of  the  Conceptinn,  is  ' 
^d  to  be  tlie  work  of  LombardelU. ' 
Passing  onwards,  we  reach  the  Trea- 
inry  and  il$  ChapiL  The  CanuuicD 
RaffiiBle,  in  1694,  generously  en- 
riched this  Ireasury  with  its  pictures 
■ud  works  uf  art      The  beautiful  pic- 

repieseoting-  a  pious  lady  iostruciing 
female  children,   is  by    Ciu'ito.      The 

trance,  protected  by  a  glnss  coieting, 
is  allribuled  to  TmionUo ;  the  Ma- 
donna  and  Child,  also  protected  by 
glass,  is  ■  copy  of  Raphael  by  SantDrer- 
rato  or  Gar^falo,  probably  the  latter 
there  is  also  another  Madonna  an 
Child  by  Andna  d±l  Sartm  Bud 
Holy  Family  on  wood,  variously  a 
tributed  to  Sthidone  or  Correggi 
The  Christ  at  the  column  is  suppow 
by  some  to  be  by  Tiarini,  and  by 
others  by  Gherttrda  ddla  NaUc.  'I'he 
Chapd  of  the  Treasury  is  retnaikable 


oof,    r  . 

7  of  the  Vii^o,  in- 

-tempersed  with  full-length  hgurca  of 

proplietB    and    sibyls,   by    C'iiliifann 

Hoicalli.      The  Treasury,  previous  to 

the    Freitch    invasion,    exhibited   the 

TichesE  cdleclioa  of  costly  offerings 

whidi  the  pety,  Ihe  policy,  and  the 

yaoily  of  the  world  had  ever  brought 

together.     Sovereign  princes,  pontiHs. 

preUtes  of  the  church,  and  Che  rank 

d  beauty  of  Chriatendom  had  muni- 

■iy  contributed  to  a»ell  ili  trea- 

;  but  (he  calamities  which  the 

1   States  lUGtained  in  their  un- 

Btruggle    with    France    coni- 

Idlnl  Fim  VI.    lo  despoil  it   of  its 

E,  in  order  to  pay  the  sum  de» 

anded  by  the  provirions  of  the  treaty 

PflCTolentino  in  J797.      At  the  resto- 

ion  of  peace,  the  ic;il  of  thefailhful 

taleavoured  to  oompensate  for  the«e 


the   results   of  (heir 
he  catalogue  of  otfei 
n'ous  collection  uf  nai 
vofMarat^  Eugene  Beaubai 


and  the"  wife  of  Joseph  Buonaparte, 
are  read  side  by  side  with  the  tillei 
of  the  dynastic  princes  of  Austria  and 
Sardinia;  many  are  those  of  illuc- 
trioiis  and  noble  bouses  in  Italy, 
France,  Poland,  Russia,  and  Spain ; 
and  among  the  multifarious  iiasem' 
blage  of  olfeiinp  may  I>e  found  the 
weddin(rdressoftbeliingorSBian*t 
The  chalice  presented  by  Pius  VII., 
and  used  by  that  pontiff  in  the  cele- 
bralLon  of  the  maaa,  records  his  gri^ 
tiiude  for  his  restoration  to  the  Satf 
See  after  bis  long  imprisonment  in 
France. 

The  octagonal  cupola  of  the  church. 
begim  by  Ciuliano  da  Majano,  tnt 
strengthened  at  its  bane  and  nearly  re- 
built by  Antonio  Sangallo.  The  skill 
and  judgment  with  which  be  aecom- 
plished  this  difficult  task  have  rKeived 
the  praises  of  Vasari.  The  interior  is 
painted  throughout  by  BrmcaUi,  as- 
sisted by  J:icometti  and  P.ctra  Lorn. 
bardo.  It  is  eoBsidered  the  master- 
piece of  Roncalli,  and  it  ia  recorded 
that  his  lucGeis  so  exasperated  Cara- 
vaggio  (hat  he  employed  a  Scilian 
bravo  to  disfigure  his  face.  Lann, 
who  speaks  in  glowing  terms  of  these 
fine  cumpositiuns,  Kays  tliat  Guida 
adopted  a  more  honourable  made  of 
revenge  than  his  contemporary,  for  ha 
determined  to  show  (hat  he  cuuld  sur- 
pass Roucalli  by  works  better  than 
his  own. 

The  magnilicent  Palace  of  the  Go- 
vernor, or  the  Paioito  ApottolieOt  an 
ediHee  worthy  of  the  capital,  was  be- 
gun in  1510  by  Julius  i\-,  front  (he 
designs  of  Bramante.  It  forms  two 
wings  composing  the  half  of  a  paral- 
lelogram, and  is  constructed  with 
two  grand  loggie  with  round-headed 
arches,  the  lower  of  which  is  of  the 
Doric,  and  (he  upper  of  the  Ionic  or- 
der. The  former  of  these  loggie  at 
lords  accommodation  to  (he  esiuins  of 
the  Church;  (he  latter  is  inhabited 
by  the    blsliop    and   governor,   and 

**  Apartment  of  the  Princes,^'  now  used 
as  a  'piemte  giiW^.  'llie  most  re- 
l  mailutiU  ifoiVa  in  tiiia  coWecMvm  ait 


Pigml  Siaiet.']   r.  15 amco^^a  to  foligno. — RecanoH.      133 

the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery  by  '•  gage  the  attention  of  the  stranger. 
Titian,  treated  in  a  very  different  The  Piazza  della  Madonna  contains  a 
manner  from  hu  other  celebrated  pic*  bronze  fountain  ornamented  with  ar- 
ture  on  the  same  subject  in  St.  Afra  morial  bearings,  eagles,  dragons,  and 
at  Brescia ;  the  Last  Supper  by  Simon  ,  tritons,  the  work  of  the  pupils  of  Cal- 
Fmut,  the  original  of  the  mosaic  in  j  cagni.  The  Piazza  de*  Galli  also 
the  church ;  the  Sta.  Chiara  of  Schi-  contains  a  fountain  from  which  it  de- 
donej  the  Deposition  of  Guereino ;  j  rives  its  name,  being  ornamented  with 
and  the  fine  painting  of  the  Nativity  a  dragon  and  four  cocks  by  Jacometti. 
vf  the  Virgin  by  Annibale  Caracci.  In  I  The  Capuchin  Hospital  was  founded 
the  bedchamber  adjoining  is  a  small  in  1740  by  Cardinal  Barberini ;  near 
Nativity  painted  on  slate  by  Gherardo  it  is  the  hospital  maintained  at  the  sole 
ddla  NoUe,  and  another  of  the  same  expense  of  the  chapter  for  the  reception 
subject  on  copper  by  Correggio.  In  of  poor  pilgrims, 
another  apartment  are  nine  tapestries  ;  We  cannot  better  conclude  tliis  ac- 
presented  to  the  Santa  Casa  by  Car-  count  of  Loreto  than  by  recalling  to 
dinal  Sforaa  Pallavicini ;  they  repre-  the  Italian  scholar  the  offering  made 
•ent  various  events  of  the  Gospel  at  its  slirine  by  the  poet  Tasso.  Re- 
history,  and  show  a  certain  corre-  ligious  feeling  never  perhaps  inspired 
■pondence  of  composition  with  the  more  devotion  than  that  which  breathes 
cartoons  of  Raphael :  it  has  l>een  er-  through  the  magnificent  canzone  com- 
roneously  supposed  that  they  were  '  posed  in  honour  of  the  Virgin  by  that 
designed  by  that  great  master.  j  illustrious  pilgrim.      No  translation 

The  Spezieria,  an  excellent  institu-  |  can  convey  any  idea  of  the  original, 
tion  of  charity  appropriately  found  in  ,  and  our  space  allows  but  a  small  ex- 
a  great  Christian  sanctuary,  is  cele-  tract: 
Inated  for  its  380  apothecary's  pots, 


Ecco  fra  le  tempette,  e  i  fieri  venti 

Di  quctito  grande  e  spatiogo  mare, 

O  santa  Stella,  il  tuo  splendor  m'  hi  scorto, 

Ch'  illustra,  e  scalda  pur  1'  umane  mente. 


painted  after  the  designs  of  Raphael, 
Michael  Angelo,  Giulio  Romano,  and 
other  great  masters.     They  were  exe- 

•cuiea.  .ccordingto  L«ui.  by  Ora.io      g''^JU'*alSi'.'IS,V'X°iToSi 
Fontana  of  Lrbmo,  who  acquired  con-       In  terribil  procella,  ov  'altri  d  morto : 

uderable  fame  by  his  imitations  of  the  1     f^ jjl™*?*?*  *^.'  •^*88^ 

I  rrw        1      *  sicuri  viaggi 

great  pamters  on  earthenware.     Tliey  !  e  querto  liuo,  c  quelle,  e  M  polo,  e  '1  porto 

represent  different  evenU  of  scripture  ?« *?  ^ita  morul,  ch'  a  pena  varca 

h..      .  .  .  c  v>  J  1.1-  Aiizi  sovente  auonda 

istory,  the  history  of  Home,  and  the  i,,  ^^^^  y  onda  alraa  gravoea,  e  carca."    ; 

Latin  classics,  and  were  presented  by  ' 

Francesco  Maria  1 1.,  duke  of  Urbino       Leaving  Loreto,  on  the  road  to  Re- 

for  whose  father  they  were  originally  canati  we  pass  at  a  short  distance  from 

painurd.     It  is  related  by  Bartoli,  a  the  town  the  fine  aqueduct,  stretching 

local  chronicler,  that  one  of  the  grand  across  the  valley  from  hill  to  hill,  and 

dukes  of  Florence  offered  to  purchase   communicating  with  the  subterranean 

them  by  a  similar  number  of  silver  channels  by  which  Loreto  is  supplied 

vases  of  equal  weight ;  and  Christina,   with  water.     It  was  undertaken  and 

queen  of  Sweden,  is  said  to  have  de-  |  completed  by  Paul  V.  at  an  expense 

clared  that  she  valued  them  more  than   of  186,000  scudi. 

all  the  riches  in  the  treasury  ofLoreto,  !      A  good  but  hilly  road  leads  to 

since    no   such    collection  was   to  be        J   Uecanati  ( Iiinf  I^ocanda  di  Raf- 

fuund  elsewhere,  while  gems  and  the   faelc,  called  La  Corona,  a  small  tavern 

precious  metals  might  be  obtained  in   \.  ith  a  very  respectable  landlord,  but 

profuhion  without  difficulty.  the  accommodation  is  deficient.)     A 

'i'he  city  of  loreto   numbers  up-   third  horse  is  required  from  loreto  to 

ward«  uf  8,00O  inhabitants,  but  it  con-    Recaniili,  but  nol  met  ver«a. 

Oiog  litUe  beyond  ita  church  to  en-  ,      Th\ssTOa\\Wl«XV<i:v&iiXXQ^Ti\%^<^<^^ 


13-t  Rotrrs  15. — ahtowa  to  tolioko. — SambwA^.  fSect.  t. 

on  B  ludy  and  cDmmunding  eminence  { ttie  pilgrimi  might  not  be  imjiedcd  in 

Mnioli,  and  stretching  to  the  tJopes  o! 
IhB  distant  Apenninea.  The  pojiula- 
tian  of  the  town  is  said  to  be  under 
6,000  souls.  It  has  been  supposed 
1^  many  antiquaries  that  Recanali 
occupies  the  Mte  of  Helvia  Rinina, 
founded  by  Seplimius  Sererus,  and  de- 
stroyed by  Alaric  in  4aH ;  but  although 
it  may  have  sprung  from  its  ruins,  the 
piopec  position  of  tlist  city  of  tlie  Pi- 
eeni  is  more  inland,  and  on  the  banks 

ttiry  Becanali  was  a  powerful  military 
position;  in  19S<)  tlie  Emperor  Fre- 
derick II.  toot  it  under  bis  especial 
protection,  and  coofencd  upon  it  man; 
privileges,  among  which  was  the  per- 
'  i  build  a  port,  granting 


ligned   11    Csrdic  liorromeo,  and  i* 
written  In  a  fine  bold  hand. 

Several  of  the  palaOBS  at  Uecanati 
TJor  pretensions,  par  ticulnrly 
',  Leopardi,  Boherti,  Mi 


he  Caradori, 
lagfllli.  Ant 


i,  &c.      The 
le  Caradori 


:w  from  the  balcony  o 
palace  is  truly  beautiful:  iicommanoa 
LoretD,  the  hill  of  Anisotim  the  AdiU 
atic,  and  the  Gne  rioh  plain  of  the 
March,  called  "  II  GJardino  d'  Italia," 
by  the  natiyei,  whose  fondness  for  Ibe 
March  will  scarcely  permit  them  to  BO- 


tbe 


s  fur 


letween  the  Fc 
tenia  and  Musone,  It  was  made 
bishopric  in  1240.  and  united  to  Lo- 
reto  in  1318.  The  Cathedral,  di 
CHted  to  St.  FUvim  Martyr,  which 
contains  the  monument  of  Gregory 
XII.  (1417),  has  a  Gothic  doorway, 
and  many  of  iti  Gothic  windovs,  now 
closed  up  and  concealed  by  modern 

roof  is  ricbly  carved,  and  dates  from 
the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury. The  churches  of  &  Domenico 
and  8.  Agoalina  have  also  Gothic 
doors  with  roimd-hesded  arches.  The 
Palaito  Comunale  has  a  bronie  bas- 
relief  by  Jacometti,  representing  the 
arri-al  of  the  SanU  Casa.  In  the 
great  hall  are  preseried  two  remark- 
able dociimeotsi  one,  the  original  di- 
ploma of  Frederick  II.,  ■•  Dei  Gratia 
Romajiorum  Imperator,"  dated  1 229, 
vlth  bis  monogram  and  his  golden 
teal,  granting  and  confirming  to  the 
town  the  port  of  Ilecanati  already 
mentioned!  the  other,  an  autograph 
letter  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  dated 
July  1 1,  15fl4,  written  by  order  of  the 
pope  to  Monsignor  Portico,  governor 
of  the  March,  confirming  the  eiemp. 
iJon  fi-om  lodging  ligbc  horse  "caval- 
/ileggieri"  previously  granted  to  the 
'iliabitaats  of  ReeaaaiS,  in  order  that 


:    Italy  ^  all  these  objects  combine 


mguh 


the  country  to  form  a  scene  of  ei 
odinary  beauty. 

The  Purf  of  ILecBoati  isaboutt 
miles  from  Loreto  :  it  is  now  a  s 
fishing  town,  with  a  poputatioi 
5,000  inhabitants.    About  a  mile  i 


Potei 


of  Poti 


■hicb  p 
In    that 


.(A 


ving  the  town,  the  titeep  hill 
we  descend  is  so  precipitous,  tl^at  oxen 
are  necessary  in  the  ascent  from  M«- 
cerato.  On  the  brow  of  this  hill  is  the 
church  of  Costel  Nuavo,  where  there 
is  a  fine  painting  of  the  Trantliguration 
by  an  unknown  artist. 

\  Sambucheto,  a  post  stat 
third  horse  is  reijuired  from 
to  Hecanati,  but  not  ma  htkL)  llle 
country  between  Recanati  and  Sloee- 
rata  resembles  a  continued  larm,  and 
is  surpassed  in  fertility  by  no  district 
of  Europe,  Its  rich  meadows  and  corn 
fields  interspersed  with  plantations  of 
mulberry  trees,  and  watered  by  fre- 
quent rivulets,  suggest  to  the  English 
traveller  many  reeoUections  of  home. 
A  branch  of  the  Fotenm  is  acoased, 
and  the  ruad  ascends  the  left  bank  of 
tblt  river,  Veai'm^  Tilontc  Coaaiano  on 
[the   right.       At   X\io   ^owil.  wts^e  Vi, 


Pqnof  Staie8.'\    b.  15. — ancona  to  foligno. — Macerata,    135 


I  the  Potenca,  three  branch  roads 
firom  Otimo,  Severino,  and  Jesi  fall 
into  the  main  line.  There  is  a  dogana 
It  the  junction,  and  close  to  it  are  the 
ruins  [of  an  amphitheatre  and  other 
buildings,  marking  the  site  of  Helvia 
Ricina. 

The  road  passes  the  gate  of  Mace- 
rata  without  entering  the  town. 

1  Mackrata  (^Inn»,  La  Pace 
(Post),  Albergo  di  Monachese),  afine 
provincial  city  prettily  situated  on  a 
lofty  eminence  above  the  Potenza, 
about  midway  between  the  Apennines 
and  the  sea,  and  commanding  views  of 
both.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  Delega- 
tion, comprehending  a  surface  of  105 
square  miles,  and  a  population  of 
200,000  souls,  and  is  one  of  the  four 
appeal  courts  of  the  Papal  States,  em- 
bracing  in  its  jurisdiction  the  eastern 
provinces.  The  city  population,  with 
lli  suburbs  and  dependencies,  amounts 
to  16,000.  Its  foundation  dates  from 
1108,  as  proved  by  documents  in  the 
archiepiscopal  archives  of  Fermo :  it 
was  made  a  city  by  John  XXII.,  in 
1S22 

At  first  sight  Macerata  appears  to  a 
stranger  unprovided  with  introduc- 
tions, a  dull  town,  but  it  is  in  reality 
one  of  the  most  agreeable  and  intel- 
lectual of  the  numerous  provincial 
cities  of  the  second  class  with  which 
the  States  of  the  Church  abound.  Its 
society  is  of  a  high  order ;  the  resident 
Dobility  yield  to  none  in  character  and 
courtesy ;  it  has  a  university,  several 
handsome  palaces,  a  tlieatre,  and  other 
public  establishments,  which  enjoy 
considerable  reputation  in  the  pro- 
vince. Many  of  the  churches  retain 
their  Gothic  porticoes,  which  serve  to 
mark  the  passage  from  the  old  style  to 
the  new.  In  the  Cathedral  sacristy  is 
a  picture  attributed  to  Perugino  (^), 
representing  the  Madonna  and  Child 
with  S.  Francis  and  S.  Julian,  to  whom 
the  church  is  dedicated  ;  and  an  altar- 
piece  by  AlUgretto  Nueci  (da  Fa- 
briano)  representing  the  same  subject 
with  S.  Benedict  and  S.  Julian  ;  the 
name  of  the  painter  it  recorded  under- 
aemth  with  the  date  1368.     The  altar 


of  the  SS.  Sacramento  has  a  very  good 
imitation  in  wood  of  the  fa9ade  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Rome.  In  the  Church  of 
S.  Giovanni  is  a  fine  painting  of  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  by  Lan.' 
franco. 

The  Paiazxo  Compagnoni  contains  a 
small  museum  of  Roman  remains  and 
inscribed  stones,  found  principally 
among  the  ruins  of  Helvia  Ricina. 
There  is  a  casino  in  the  town  supplied 
with  modern  works  and  journals ;  and 
in  the  same  establishment  is  the  BihliO' 
teca  ComuTuiIe,  founded  by  Leo  XII.  in 
1824,  and  lately  enriched  by  a  dona- 
tion of  valuable  books  by  the  Padre 
Borgbetti,  its  librarian.  Outside  the 
gate  leading  to  Fermo  is  a  very  noble 
building,  erected  for  the  national  game 
of  pallone,  by  the  architect  Alcandri : 
it  is  said  to  be  the  largest  known. 
About  a  mile  beyond  it  is  the  beauti- 
ful Church  of  the  Madonna  della  Ver- 
gine,  one  of  the  best  designs  of  Bra- 
mante. 

Macerata  is  the  birthplace  of  Cres- 
cimbeni,  the  founder  of  the  Arcadian 
Society,  and'of  Matteo  Ricci,  the  well 
known  Chinese  scholar  and  missionary. 
The  walls  of  the  city  were  built  by  the 
celebrated  Cardinal  Albornoz.  The 
triumphal  arch,  called  the  Porta  Pia,  is 
somewhat  heavy  in  its  effect,  notwith- 
standing its  accurate  proportions. 

[There  is  a  cross  road  of  3  posts 
from  Macerata  to  Fermo  (Route  31), 
crossing  the  Chienti  and  the  Tenna ;  it 
is  a  very  agreeable  drive.  It  passes 
beneath  Mont*  Olmo,  the  birthplace 
of  Lanzi,  the  celebrated  writer  on  Ita- 
lian art.] 

Leaving  Macerata,  the  road  descends 
under  Pieve  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
Cliienti,  and  proceeds  along  it  to  To- 
;  lentino,  through  a  rich  and  highly  cul- 
tivated country.   Between  these  towns 
is  passed  the  deserted  fortress  of  La 
'.  Rancia.    This  position,  and  indeed  the 
ground  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  was 
the  scene  of  the  bloody  and  decisive 
battle  between  Muratand  the  Austrians 
in  May,  1815.    Previous  to  the  battle 
:  the    lmpef\a\    tioo^%    wit\r^\^^   ^>fc 
heights  oi  Moikte  lAJCLotv^  vcv  >t^<%  x\^^ 


BOPTE  IS. — AVcoxA  TO  votjaso.^Toteiitho.    {Sect.  J! 

rand  ;  the  NeapolilanE  liaii 


Ihey  hailed  for  Ihe  night,  and  subse-  '  a 
ijuenily  took  up  ■  position  under  the  o 
heightiofMonlolmoaQdPetriola,  On  1 
■      -    '    -  daybteak,  i- - —  ■'—    i 


e  AuMti 


roentsduring  the  niglil,  increasing  their 
strength  to  1G,000  men,  the  Neapo- 
litans numbering  10,000.  The  bitile 
WBS  fought  by  Mur»t  in  person  j  the 

At  it«  commencement  Iho  Austrlar 
had  their  right,  and  the  NespolilBH 
Iheb  left  wing  covered  liy  the  Chient 
The  battle  was  begun  by  Murat,  the 


;ting  01 


e  defen 


give.  It  larted  during  Iho  whole  dair, 
and  when  both  armies  drev  oiF  far  (he 
night,  3,000  meo  on  both  sides  lay 
dead  and  dying  on  the  field.  The  un- 
expected arrival  of  two  couriers,  one 
with  the  new!i  of  the  defeat  at  Aniro- 
doco.  the  other  bringing  despatches 
from  Napleis  detailing  the  disturbances 
in  Calabria  and  Campania,  induced 
Murst  to  determine  on  retiring  Di  "' 
following  morning.     In  'the  pre 


and  beet  preserved  apeclmens  of 
lelUted  arcliitccture  of  the  middle 
'!.  Tolentino  nearly  retains 
lent  name  of  H  conu'derable  city  of 
:enuni,  tiom  whose  ruins  it  tprung. 
was  made  a  city  by  Siitus  V,  in 
)6,  by  whom  its  bishopric,  which 
es  from  the  fifth  century,  was  united 
thai  of  JWacerota.  It  was  pnce 
jngly  fortified.      The  present  popu- 

oT  Ihe  Vite,  deatli,  and  miracles  of  St. 

The   Cathedral,   dedicated    lo   thit 

int,  was  originally  a  Gothic  edifice, 

may  be  seen  by  tlie  closed  arches 

□fits  windows  in  the  side  walls.     Hie 


mopy  IS 


"''i' 


and  by  an  injudicious  ma- 
I  the  part  of  one  of  his  gene- 
st  position  iell  into  the  hands 

In- 


oapturei 

of  Ihe 

Bubordinalion  had  long  prevailed  ;  the 
untoward  events  of  the  day  rendered 
hia  own  personal  courage  of  no  avail ; 
his  plans  were  frustrated  by  disobe- 
dience j  and,  to  use  Ihe  language  of 
Colletta,  corruption  spread  from  Ihe 
bighest  to  the  lowest.  He  fell  back 
on  Macerata  with  much  loss,  and  was 
obliged  to  retrace  his  steps  to  Naples 
with  tlie  remnant  of  an  army  which 
was  never  worthy  of  his  military  genius. 
I'tiis  baltle  sealed  the  late  of  Murat ; 
on  Ihe  SSil  of  the  month  he  fled  from 
Naples,  and  in  tlie  October  follawing 
his  ambitious  career  terminated  in  his 
execution  at  Piizo. 

1^  TotiNTiNo  iinn.  La  Corona, 
T^rr  tolerable  and  clean).  The  Gothic 
griieiraj- by  which  Tolentino  is  entered 
v  (A/ssitfo  ji  one  of  themoatioteresl- 


Lght« 

might'be  taken  for  St.  George.  The 
interior  of  the  church  has  a  superb 
loof  of  carved  wood  richly  gUt,  with 
GgurcB  of  the  Virgin,  Saviour,  and 
numerous  saints  in  bold  r^liefi  in 
every  part  of  it  are  seen  the  ducal 
coronet  and  dragon  of  the  Visconti  \rf 
whom  it  was  built.  The  capellone  is 
interesting  for  Ihe  remarkable  frescoes 
by  IJiraiio  and  Jacopo  da  San  Sect 
representing  various  subjects  from  the 
life  of  S.  Nicholas.  Tliough  much 
injured  by  repainting,  enough  remains 
lo  aflbrd  materials  of  study ;  the  heads 
are  in  general  full  of  expression  and 
feeling.  In  Ihe  chapel  of  the  saint  are 
two  pfliniinga,  one  representing  the 
Fire  of  St.  Mark  st  Venice,  attributed 
to  TiHlorcNa,  and  the  other  tbe  Plague 
in  Sicily,  attributed  perhaps  on  as  slight 
aulhoritytoi^iJ  fertmete,  who  a  con- 
sidered by  some  to  have  panted  the 
farmer  picture  (?}. 

Tolentino  was  the  btrlhplace  of  the 
learned  Francesco  Filelfo,  whose  bust 
has  been  erceled  over  the  door  of 
the  Palazzo  Pubblico."  In  diplomatic 
history  the  town  lins  aci|uired  somo 
celebrity  for  the  treaty  which  bears  its 
name,  BigneA  19ttv  ¥e\jt«LMi,  1797, 
between  ibc  comnusBQiieta  rf  ¥™.N\. 


Pifol  States."]  R.15. — ancona  to  foligmo. — Camerino.     137 


and  General  Buonaparte  on  the  part  of 
the  French  Republic.  By  this  hu- 
miliating treaty  the  pope  ceded  the 
province  of  Bomagna,  in  addition  to 
the  Legations  of  Bologna  and  Ferrara 
already  surrendered  to  the  Cispadane 
Republic.  He  left  Ancona  in  pos- 
Mssion  of  the  French,  and  surrendered 
to  tliem  his  territories  at  Avignon,  be- 
ndes  engaging  to  pay  a  ransom  for 
other  provinces,  and  to  deliver  the 
manuscripts  and  works  of  art  which 
had  excited  the  cupidity  of  his  con- 
querors. 

Leaving  Tolentino,  the  road  con- 
tinues along  the  left  bank  of  the 
Chienti  through  very  beautiful  scenery, 
presenting  in  its  immediate  vicinity 
many  characteristics  of  an  English 
landscape.  The  country  is  very  pro- 
ductive and  rich  in  oaks,  and  the  pro- 
spect is  bounded  by  the  chain  of 
Apennines,  covered  with  snow  so  late 
as  the  beginning  of  summer,  and  in 
some  years  never  free  from  it.  Soon 
after  passing  the  village  of  Belforte  the 
frontier  of  the  province  of  Macerata  is 
passed,  and  we  enter  the  Delegation 
of  Camerino.  On  the  left  are  seen  the 
villages  of  Caldarola  and  Pieve  Favera, 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river. 

1  Valciraara,  a  post  station  and 
hamlet  of  400  souls.  The  road  passes 
through  Campolorzo,  and,  some  dis- 
tance further,  a  sudden  bend  opens  on 
the  picturesque  Rocca  di  Varano,  with 
an  ancient  castle  perched  upon  its 
summit.  At  this  place  a  road  branches 
off  the  high  post  road  to  Camerino. 

[Camerino,  the  capital  of  a  Dele- 
gation of  70  square  leagues  and  36,500 
souls,  and  the  seat  of  an  archbishopric, 
is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines 
on  a  lofty  hill,  from  whose  base  several 
tributaries  of  the  Potenza  take  their 
rise.  It  retains  the  name  of  the  an- 
cient Camerinum,  a  border  city  of 
Umbria,  which  acquired  some  note 
from  its  alliance  with  Rome  against 
the  Etrurians.  In  1545  Paul  III. 
received  it  in  exchange  for  the  cession 
of  Parma  and  Piacenza.  T/)e cathedral 
dedicated  to  S,  Sansovino  occupies  the 


site  of  a  temple  of  Jupiter.  Camerino 
was  made  an  archiepiscopal  see  by 
Pius  VL  in  1787 ;  the  see  of  Treja 
was  united  to  it  by  Pius  VII.  in  1817. 
Its  bishopric  dated  from  252,  under 
Lucius  I.,  and  S.  Sansovino,  the  titular 
saint  of  the  cathedral  was  it  first  bishop. 
The  city  has  a  university  of  some  re- 
pute and  a  small  manufactory  of  silk. 
Its  present  population  is  5,182.  Carlo 
Maratta  was  born  here.  Large  quan- 
tities of  sumach  are  cultivated  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

1  Ponte  del  la  Trave,  a  post  station. 
At  La  Mucciot  the  usual  resting-place 
of  the  vetturini  (Inn,  II  Leone),  the 
road  which  has  crossed  from  the  left  to 
the  right  bank  of  the  Chienti  returns 
again  to  the  left.  There  is  a  branch 
road  from  this  to  Camerino,  distant 
five  miles.  The  several  villages  which 
are  passed  between  Valcimara  and 
Serravalle  are  picturesquely  placed  on 
the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains.  On 
the  left  hand  are  Pieve- Bo vigliano,  S. 
Marco,  Pieve- Tor rina,  Massadl,  and 
Prefoglio ;  and  on  the  right  CoUe,  SL 
Marcello,  and  Gelagna.  The  road 
now  begins  to  ascend. 

1  Serravalle,  a  long  straggling  vil- 
lage in  a  steep  and  narrow  defile,  com- 
pletely commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an 
old  castle  and  stronghold  of  the  middle 
ages.  Near  it  are  the  sources  of  the 
Chienti,  which  after  a  course  of  fifty- 
eight  miles  falls  into  the  Adriatic  at 
the  port  of  Civitanuova.  A  gradual 
ascent  by  a  fine  wild  mountain  road 
brings  us  to  the  plain  of  Cinquemiglia. 
The  solitary  house  of  refuge  upon  it 
shows  that  in  severe  winters  the  route 
is  often  impassable  from  snow.  The 
plain  has  a  local  reputation  for  the 
excellence  of  its  hay.  The  country 
becomes  wild  and  desolate  as  Col/iorito 
is  approached,  and  occasionally  the 
scenery  is  striking  of  its  kind.  There 
is  a  new  inn  at  this  village  called  the 
Locanda  di  Bonelli.  After  passing 
the  Lake  of  Colfiorito,  famous  for  its 
leeches,  the  road  begins  to  descend, 
and  a  great  change  in  the  character  oC 
the  country  at\d  U%  wexv^tN  \^%oq.xv  «^ 
parent ;  t\\e  \aud  vi  i\c\\  wv^  ^cwst^l 


Tliis  route  follows  Ihe   Flamioian 

mwenl  to  the  Colfiorito  from  Folipio  is 

way  throughout  its  entire  course. 

eitremel;  ditlicult,  and  in  same  puts 

The  early  part  of  the  road  la  ei- 

ilaiigeraua  In  an  English  CBirUge. 

tremely  beautltU.     Leaiing  Fano,  we 

1  Caw  Nuove,  a  small  hamlet  of  130 

snuk  built  under  the  ruin,  of  an  olil 

soon  enter  upon  the  varied  and  beaud- 

castle  Dear  the  rapid  torrent  Menautri. 

In  posting  frma  Foligno  by  this  roaii 

tains,  amending  the  left  hank  of  th« 

a  third   hone  is  reiiuirad  from  Case 

Metauro.       This  classic  stream,  me- 

Nuovc lo  Soiraiialle,  but  not  t»'cc  w.i!. 

morable  for  (he  defeat  of  Asdrub.1,  ii 

Beyond  it  U  the  village  of  Pale,  where 

fa  a  remarkable  pointed  peak  among 

most  touching  poems  (Hime  Eroiobe, 

Hhm  U  a  curiou.  oivera  filled  with 

"  O  diJ  Erand'  Apebnlno 
Figllo  plcciulo.'^' 

ItaJaatiteii;    in    the   pmipilous   cliiTs 

VA.      In  Ihe  descent  from  hence  the 

t  CalcinBlli. 

liew  looking  down  upon  the  oily  and 

1    fbiioMft™.    {/-».»,     l.a    Poataj 

tortile  pUin  of  Foligno  i.  perfect ;  it 

II  Re,    new,  ill-kept,  and  very  dear), 

B  thriring  epiieopal  town  of  6,4tX)  in- 

■etriiing oyer  Ihe  yalley  of  the  Tiber, 

habitants  sprung  lirom  theruinaofths 

kd  scarcely  to  be  surpassed  in  rich- 

Forum  Sempronii,  whose  site  near  th* 

torrent  of  S.  Maitino  about  two  milea 

IWty. 

distant,  is  marked  by  the  vestiges  of  a 

About  a  mile   before   arriving   at 

theatre  and  other  remains,    Tlieancient 

Migno  thehigh  post  road  from  Fano 

city  was  ruiaed  by  the  Goths  and  Lom- 

imugh   Noeera,    and    the    branches 

bards.      The  modem  town  is  near  Iha 

sm  Gubbio  and  Fabrianu,  fall  into 

Melauro,  and  was  the  property  of  the 

1  FOLtoNO  ;  described  in  Route  ST. 

of  Siitos  IV.,  when  GaleBno  aoW  U 

to  the  Uuke  Federlgo  di   RoTere  for 

13,000  golden  florins.     In  more  reoenl 

ROUTE  16. 

limes  it  became  the  property  of  Eugene 

Beauhamois,  and  has  descended  to  hil 

WSO   TO    rOI.lONO,    BY    Illlt    STBiD* 

son,  the  present  Uuke  de  Leiichlen- 

berp,  to  whom  it  is  indebted  for  much 

Fano  to  Calcioelli         -         -      1 

celebrated  throughout  Italy  Ibr  iti  silk 

CalcineUi  to  Fossombrone     -     1 

manufactories,  worked  by  steam  ma. 

diinery  friim  (he  foundries  of  Bologna. 

.^nsr.;?'" :  :  Sf 

Its  factories  of  woollen  cloths  are  nlsa 
held  in  great  esteem. 

Cantiano  to  La  Schieggia      -     1 

The  cathedral  dedicated  to  S,  Aide. 

L»  Schiegptte  to  Siglllo         -     1 

braodo    Vescoeo    contains    some    in- 

Sigillo to  Gualdo  Tadino      -     1 

scribed  stones  from  the   ruins  of  the 

Gualdo  Tadino  to  Noeera     .      1 

ancient  city  :   its  bishopric  dates  from 

Noeera  to  Ponte  Centesimo        1 

the  Rnh  century.     The  modem  bridga 

Psnie  Centtaimo  to  Foligno      I 

over  the  Metauro,  spanning  Ihat  broad 

PObU  loj 

liy  any  simitar  erection  of  recent  limes. 

JiKjnnthironil:  Foisombroat.l'aUm 

The  road  o.er  it  loads  lo  S.  Ippolilo, 

itc/?;    Posts     (wretdied);     Cantiano, 

where  there  arc  the  best  marble  quar- 

vabt (tery  poor)  i    Nacera,  Paste.. 

ries  in  the  Svat-ca,  i"k\\  ■boix\\t  n't  * 

Pigfol  Staiti,']   R.  16. — FANO  TO  FOLiGNO. — Fuvh  Poss.     139 


Tuat,— to  Sorbolungo, — to  the  an- 
cient walled  town  of  Mondavio, — to 
Pergola,  an  important  town  of  5,600 
■ouls,  with  extensive  carpet  manu&c- 
tories ;  and  to  other  places  of  less  con- 
lequenee  between  the  Metauro  and 
the  Ceaano. 

Leaving  Fossombrone,  the  scenery 
becomes  remarkably  fine ;  the  country 
is  varied  and  beautiful,  and  rich  in 
oaks  which  would  be  ornamental  to 
any  English  park.  The  road  to  Ut' 
himo  branches  off  from  the  main  route 
three  miles  from  Fossombrone.  (See 
next  Route,  17.) 

The  Foligno  road  crosses  the  Me- 
tauro and  at  once  strikes  into  the 
mountains,  ascending  the  left  bank  of 
the  Cantiano,  a  tributary  of  the  former 
river  rising  from  the  Apennines  under 
Valboscosa  and  San  Benedetto.  Near 
this  at  the  entrance  of  the  pass  of  the 
Furlo  is  the  hill  still  called  R  Monte 
d^Asdntbale,  in  which  tradition  has 
preserved  the  record  of  the  memorable 
battle  between  the  Carthaginian  ge- 
neral and  the  Roman  consuls  Livius  Sa- 
linator  and  Claudius  Nero,  b.  c.  207. 
The  battle  is  supposed  from  the  ac- 
count of  Livy  to  have  taken  place  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  where  it 
begins  to  be  contracted  by  high  rocks; 
56,000  men  shared  the  fate  of  their 
commander,  and  5,400  were  made  pri- 
soners. The  loss  of  the  Romans  is 
admitted  by  their  historians  to  have 
been  8,000.  The  pathetic  lamentation 
of  Hannibal  for  the  death  of  his 
brother  is  well  known  to  every  reader 
of  Horace :  — 

'*  Carthagini  ]am  non  ego  nuntiot 
Mittam  ■u|>erl)08 :  occidit,  occidit 
Sites  omiiis,  ct  fort  una  nostri 
Numiiiis,  Aiulrubale  interempto.*' 

Ilor.  iv.  od.  4. 

In  the  caverns  of  the  ncighl)ouring 
mountains  many  fossil  remains  are 
found,  which  the  inhabitants  believe 
to  be  the  relics  of  the  army  of  Asdru- 
bal,  precisely  as  the  contents  of  the 
bone-caves  of  Palermo  are  referred  to 
the  Roman  Naumachia. 

The  PtuB  of  the  Furh  upon  wliich 
t/te  romd  now  enters  affords  one   of 


I  those  remarkable  examples  of  Roman 
I  energy,  which  are  no  where  so  sur- 
'  prising  as  in  the  construction  of  their 
I  public  roads.  The  traveller  who  is 
;  acquainted  with  the  magnificent  re- 
mains of  the  highway  constructed  by 
Trajan  in  the  precipices  of  Servia 
along  the  Danube,  will  not  fail  to  re- 
cognise in  this  pass  the  same  skilful 
engineering  and  the  same  power  of 
overcoming  difficulties  for  which  that 
wonderful  work  is  celebrated.  The 
high  perpendicular  precipices  of  the 
Passo  del  Furlo  close  in  so  narrowly 
on  the  very  edge  of  the  Cantiano,  that 
it  appears  as  if  the  mountains  would 
allow  nothing  beyond  the  passage  of 
the  stream.  The  Roman  engineers 
however  cut  through  the  rock  on  its 
left  bank,  carrying  the  road  through  a 
tunnel  which  gives  name  to  the  defile 
for  about  126  feet,  and  thus  formed  a 
permanent  passage  for  the  Flaminian 
way.  The  whole  length  of  the  pass  is 
about  half  a  mile,  and  the  scenery  is 
exceedingly  grand.  An  inscription 
cut  in  the  rock  records  its  construction 
by  order  of  Vespasian.  This  inter- 
esting work  is  called  Petra  IntercUa 
in  the  Peutingerian  Table,  and  Petra 
Pertitsa  by  Frocopius,  who  has  accu- 
rately described  it;  it  is  also  comme- 
morated by  Claudian  in  the  beautiful 
passage— i 

*'  Qua  mons  arte  patens  vivo  se  perforat  arcu, 
Admittitque  viam  sectse  per  viscera  rupis.'* 

FI  Cons.  Hon.,  500. 

1  Acqualagna,  a  small  village  and 
post  station  on  the  junction  of  the 
Candigliano  virith  the  C-antiano.  The 
neighbouring  plain  has  been  consi- 
dered by  some  antiquaries  to  be  the 
scene  of  the  defeat  and  death  of  To- 
tila,  but  we  shall  presently  see  that 
the  true  site  of  the  battle  must  be 
placed  lower  down  at  Gualdo.  Three 
miles  farther  is  a  new  and  apparently 
clean  inn  called  the  Aurora,  which 
may  be  l)etter  than  the  wretched  town 
inns  along  this  road.  Close  to  Cagli, 
a  stream  which  flows  into  the  Can- 
tiano is  CTossMsd  \i^  «L  ^tvfe  '^^w»axv 
i  bridge  caWed  VouXa  lilaxXvo  \  >Xvfc  ^^^- 


e  16. — r-ASB  TO  tolioWO. — La  Si^ieggia.  '^Sect.  ^. 


>1  arch,  lliirty-nirie  feci  in  span,  is 
Finptned   of  nineteen    large  stanes. 
he  uceat  is  tetj  sleep  lo 
i  ]  CofH  (iiB,  Lb  Foeu,  vretchnl). 


■n  of  nearlf  4000  inliabitaots,  coti- 

tutlug  in  conjundian  villi  PergoU 

It  oftt  bishopric.      Il  occupies 

a  oT  Cbl/ii,  H  Knnian  ciiy  and 

□f  the  Vis  Flaminia,  built  on 

ftflanki  of  Monte  Petrano.    The  pre- 

t  town   dales  from  the  thirteenth 

I   tlie    pontiflcste  of    Ni- 

Bereral    remains  of  the 

J,  medals,  and  fragments  of 

■a  haie  been  lound  in  iti  vicinity. 

e  churcb  of  S.  Domaica  is  tlie 

H  vork  of  Gionanni  Sanii,  father  of 

qihul,  a  Msdonna  and  Saints,  with 

e  Resartcetion  and  othvr  suhjects. 

n  liesaa,  of  the  greatest  beauty. 

angel  to  the  right  of  tbc  Ma- 

i«  bears  the  portrait  of  (he  young 

bael.     1(  contains  also  a  figure  of 

tween  two   Saints,  by   Gia- 

li,  over  a  monument.  In  Ibe 

te  of  Bramaxle,  to  the  family 

i.      Opposite  is  an  Annnn- 

a  probably  by  Fna  Carntvale,  a 

are  early  master.      In  S,  Fran- 

■re  some    line   frescoes   of  St. 

bitony,  by  Guido  Pahntnccl,  a  tine 

ire  by  BiiTOcda,  and  a  good  Mb- 

la  by  Gadana  Lapis  of  CuglL    In 

K  Angtio  Minora,  the  altar-piece  la  an 

'"  lirable  "  Noli  me  taogere,"  by  IS. 

Filt.      'ITie  Church  of  tin   Ca. 

I,  abore  the  ton-n,  lias  an  eieel- 

Ji  by  Fra  Btnordo  Caleli 


town  near  the  Ponte  KieeiolL  Leaving 
Cantiano,  the  road  rapidly  ascendi  the 

to  Lb  Sebieggia,  but  not  vice  wratf.) 

1.  La  Schtigt/ia,  a  walled  village 
withananoient  Palazzo  and  cathedral. 
lu  interest  h  derived  from  the  ruins 
of  Ihe  Amous  Temple  of  Jupitet 
Apenninus,  still  traceable  on  Monte 
Petrora,  to  which  Ihe  confederated 
tribes  of  Umbria  repaired  lo  ucriScei 
HS  the  Etruscans  did  to  the  temple  of 
Voltumna.  Its  oracle  was  consulted 
by  Ihe  Emperor  Claudius,  nnd  it  is 
'd  by  Claudian  in  the  roltow- 


Apeiii 


buTaiis." 


U  has  an  important 


UA  dressed 

eathcrs,  and  is  perhaps 

ttw  most   Hi 

pate.  Beyon 

dCagli  are  three  Roman 

ag  under  the  ruad  for 

■  earrymif  off  the  water 

H  Ibe  torrcnu  into  the  valley  below. 

and  Cantiano  Ihe  river 

St  crossed  by 

■  stone  bridge  of  Roman 

5  Cantiano 

(hR.  La    Posla,   very 

poor),  a  small  fortidcd  town  supposed 

ipal  city  destroyed  by 

.^rses  :„  l„s 

jiifrauit   of  Tolila,  the 

In  Ihe  neigbbourhood  of  the  ruins 
several  remains,  as  brume  idols,  eagle^ 
and  inscribed  stones  bave  been  dis- 
covered, together  with  the  vestiges  pC 
baths  near  Ihe  present  town.  The 
country  around  La  Sebieggia  is  licb 
in  oalu,  and  is  in  parts  well  culti- 
vated.  The  bridge  called  the  Ponte 
a  Bottc  (or  the  barrel -shaped)  wu 
bnilt  by  Fabri  in  1B05,  by  order  of 
PiuaVI.  Its  construction  U  peculiar. 
It  spans  the  ravine  by  a  single  arah  at 
the  height  of  830  ti-et  from  Ihe  bot- 
tom ;  abore  this  arch  the  engineer  has 
introduced  a  cylindrical  aperture  63 
feet  in  diameter,  which  has  given  name 
to  Ihe  bridge. 

[A  road  strikes  westward  from 
Scbit^gia  8  miles  across  the  moun- 
toins  to  Gubbio,fram  whence  another 
of  13  miles  by  8.  Marea  falls  into  the 
present  route  at  S.  Facondino,  near 
GTialdo  Tadino,  so  thai  it  is  not  ne- 
cessary for  the  traveller  desirous  of 
seeing  Gubbio  to  retrace  bis  steps, 
and  this  detour  adds  but  4  miles  to  his 
journey.  For  a  dcscripliun  of  Gnbbio, 
and  of  other  roads  leading  from  it  to 
Perugia  and  Ciita  di  Castello,  see 
Route  SO.  Sebieggia  to  SassoTert 
,13      ■■     " 


East  Qt  T-a  ScWm^gJi,  a 


Ptgpai  StaieaJ]   i^oute  16. — fano  to  foligno.— iVbcrero.      141 


iBidwaj  between  it  and  the  Cesano,  is 
an  interesdng  classical  locality,  record- 
ingt  in  the  modem  name  of  Sentina, 
the  site  of  ancient  Sentinum,  cele- 
brated  for  the  battle  between  the  Ro- 
mans and  the  combined  forces  of  the 
Gauls  and  Samnites,  a.  c.  296,  in  which 
the  younger  Decius  devoted  himself 
for  his  country. 

The  road  from  La  Schieggia  to 
iKgillo  undulates  along  the  valley  or 
depression  in  the  chain  of  the  Apen- 
nines, whose  lofty  range  here  appears 
to  separate  into  two  portions.  Be- 
tween Costacciaro  and  Sigillo  we  leave 
the  I<egation  of  Urbino  and  Pesaro, 
and  enter  the  Delegation  of  Perugia. 

1  Sigillo,  the  SvUlwn  of  Pliny,  an- 
other Umbrian  city,  now  reduced  to  a 
wild  mountain  village  of  little  more 
than  1,000  souls.  In  the  middle  ages 
it  was  one  of  the  dependencies  of  Pe- 
rugia, and  was  strongly  fortified ;  some 
portions  of  its  walls  and  castle  still  re- 
main. In  the  neighbourhood  are  two 
bridges  attributed  to  Flaminius,  and 
the  pavement  of  the  ancient  road  may 
still  be  traced.  In  the  mountains  of 
Sigillo  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  said  to 
be  the  largest  in  Italy,  which  has  not 
been  sufficiently  explored:  it  is  only 
to  be  entered  by  means  of  a  rope.  The 
galleries  it  contains  are  full  of  stalac- 
tites ;  the  fourth  is  said  to  be  upwards 
of  a  mile  in  length,  terminating  in  a 
deep  lake.  The  floor  of  this  cavern, 
we  believe,  has  never  been  broken ; 
and  it  would  be  interesting  if  some 
resident  geologist  would  explore  it 
with  a  view  to  the  discovery  of  fossil 
renuiins.  The  high  range  of  moun- 
tains east  of  the  road  which  runs  along 
their  base  for  many  miles,  forms  the 
line  of  separation  between  the  Dele- 
gation of  Perugia  and  that  of  Came- 
rino.  They  frequently  present  striking 
combinations  of  scenery,  and  in  many 
places  supply  pleasing  subjects  for  the 
sketch-book  of  the  artist. 

A  few  miles  on,  at  Fossato,  a  small 
place  on  the  left,  remarkable  for  its 
successful  resistance  to  Francesco 
Sforza,  and  fur  having  been  sacked 
hjr  Ceamr  Borgia,  a  road  branches  ofTj 


to  Fabriano;  an  important  town  of 
6,600  souls,  whose  celebrated  paper 
manufactories  established  so  early  as 
1564,  not  only  supply  the  States  of 
the  Church,  but  rival  the  great  Nea- 
politan establishment  on  the  Fibreno, 
at  Isola.  Below  S.  Facondino,  the 
point  where  the  road  from  Gubbio, 
13  miles,  falls  into  the  Flaminian 
Way,  is 

1  Gualdo  Tadino,  a  walled  town  of 
about  5,000  inhabitants,  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  which  was  the  ancient  city 
of  Tadlnum  mentioned  by  Pliny.  The 
site  was  not  discovered  until  1750, 
when  its  ruins  were  found  close  to  the 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  Tadina,  and  se- 
veral interesting  remains  were  brought 
to  light.  The  neighbourhood  is  re- 
markable as  the  scene  of  the  great 
battle  in  which  Narses,  the  general  of 
Justinian,  overthrew  and  mortally 
wounded  Totila  king  of  the  Goths. 
The  march  of  the  Romans  and  their 
allies  from  Ravenna  by  the  pass  of 
Furlo,  and  the  particulars  of  the  bat- 
tle, are  finely  described  by  Gibbon, 
chap,  xliii. 

Leaving  Sigillo,  the  road  gradually 
descends  to 

1  Nocera,  the  Nuceria  Camellaria 
of  Pliny  ( Inn,  La  Posta).  This  Um- 
brian city,  celebrated  by  Strabo  for  its 
manufactory  of  wooden  vessels,  has 
dwindled  down  to  a  poor  village  of 
1,100  souls.  It  is  however  the  seat 
of  a  bishopric  in  conjunction  with  the 
town  of  Sassoferrato,  to  which  its  an- 
cient see,  founded  in  402,  was  united 
by  John  XIX.  in  1027.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Nocera  are  some  mineral 
springs  which  have  enjoyed  great  local 
repute  from  the  time  of  Bernardino  da 
Spoleto,  by  whom  they  were  first  de- 
scribed in  1510.  They  are  much  re- 
sorted to  by  the  country  people,  but 
an  accurate  analysis  of  them  is  yet 
wanting.  The  road  now  leaves  the 
mountains,  and  rapidly  descends  into 
the  valley  of  the  Topino,  whose  banks 
it  follows  throughout  the  remainder 
of  the  route. 

1  Ponte  CeulcavTcvo,  al  "^o^\.  «.\a.'C\otv. 
On  the  right  o£  iVv^  to«i^  VX\^  n^^^.^^ 


HOUTS  17. — TANO  TO  nnBmo. 


fSecC  f. 


'hrOalel  S.  GioVamii  pro  Fiamma  is  in  population  only  to  that  of  Bolc^na, 
fwssed.  It  occupies  thi-  site,  and  pre-  and  comprehends  a  su|ierlicia1  citcnt 
lervei  some  Iracea  of  (he  name  of  Ibe  of  180  squnrc  leagues  nni)  a  papula- 
ancient  Foruir  Flaminii,  which  ei-  tion  ofSSS.SOO  souls.  The  city  itsdf 
isted  as  an  important  city  aa  late  as  with  its  dependencies  has  a  population 
253,  wlien  it  was  deitroyed  l>;  the  amounting  to  12,400. 
Lombards  and  Foligno  rose  from  iu  Tlie  little  Sure  of  Urbino  ma  ac- 
tuina.  It  was  an  episcopal  see  in  a.  d.  quired  by  the  house  of  Montefeltro  in 
38,  St.  Crispoldo  a  disciple  of  St.  |  the  Ihirteenih  century,  but  it  waa  not 
Peter  being  its  first  bishop.  until   the  close  of  the  fifteenth   that 

A   beauliful   drive  through 
■J- brings 


I  FoLioHO  (Route  S7). 


^K««dingi 


where  the  Foligno 


»tha 


able  on  the  banVsoTlhe  Melsuro,  and 
foruiing  so  slrong  a  contrast  wilb  the 
bare  and  barren  hills  by  which  Urbino 
is  surrounded.  As  we  approach  the 
city  the  fioc  ducal  palace  on  the  rij^ht 
of  the  gate  of  entrance,  and  the  old 
castle  or  citadel  on  the  hill  opposite, 
are  conspicuous  objects,   A  very  sleep 

Urbiso,  13  miles  from  FoMombrone 
(fta.  La  Stella,  bad  and  dcar>  This 
interesting  city,  the  birthplace  of  Ra. 
phael,  the  aoene  of  the  "  Coriegiano  " 
of  Castiglione,  and  the  seat  of  an  here- 
ditary sovereignty  before  the  close  of 
the  firtuenth  century,  is  situated  on  an 
isolated  hill  in  the  midst  of  bleak  and 
desolate  mountains,  wearing  more  the 
aspect  of  a  feudal  fortress  than  Ihal 
of  an  arcliiepiscopsl  city.  It  ii  one 
nf-  Ibe  cnpltah  of  the  delegation  of 
Uthiiio  and  J'caara,  which   is  second 


art  and  learning  under  the  encourage- 
ment of  Fedeiign  and  bis  successor 
Cuid'  Ubnldo.  These  great  men  con- 
verted Iheir  palace  into  an  academy, 
and  changed  a  schoni  of  military  tae- 


The  impuh 
ture  and  arts  o 
proved  by  the  Hi 
ciated  with  the  1 
nnd  by  the  fact 
political  imports 


of  refine 


t  the  social  and 
of  Urbino  under 
able 


It  is  remarkable  that  Komagna  was 
celebrated  at  the  same  time  fbr  three 
of  the  most  brilliant  courts  in  Europe 
—  that  of  Sigismund  Itlalatesta  at  Ri- 
mini, that  of  Alessandro  Sibrsa  at 
Fesaro,  and  that  of  Federigo  di  Mon- 
tefeltro at  Urbino;  as  if  these  princes 
endeavoured  to  rival  each  otheraa  well 
in  Iheir  patronage  of  genius  as  in  their 


E-ploitS 


and    t 


The 


of  Urbino   surpassed  both  the 


of  its  greatness,  who  in  early  me  wi 
the  counsellor  and  minister  of  Gi 
leazito  IVfalatcsta,  bori 


itru^lea 


r  the 


fifteenth  ee 

the  commanders  of  the  Milanese  atmj 

14G0;  a  few  years  later  he  was  general 
of  the  army  of  Florence,  and  fought 
Ibc  battle  of  Molinella  with  Barln- 
lommeo  Coleoni  in  1467.  He  de- 
feated the  armv  of  the  pope  (Paul  I L) 
at  Rimini  in  HG9;  in  1472  he  reduced 


Volter; 


Ma\U  > 


irtillery  thai 


Pugnl  Siaies.'] 


ROUTE    17.  —  URBINO. 


143 


barum  had  effected.  Two  years  after- 
wards (1474)  he  married  bis  daughter 
GiioTaiina  to  Giovanni  della  Rovere, 
brother  of  Julius  II.,  and  was  created 
'  Duke  of  Urbino  in  the  same  year  by 
B  papal  rescript.  In  1482,  in  spite  of 
his  great  age,  he  was  appointed  general 
of  the  league  between  the  church  and 
its  allies  against  Ferrara ;  but  he  died 
September  lOih  in  that  year,  on  the 
flune  day  as  his  son-in-law  Robert 
Malatesta,  and  was  succeeded  by  his 
son  Guid*  Ubaldo  I. 

The  military  character  of  Federigo 
may  suffice  to  show  what  an  important 
part  he  played  in  the  eventful  drama  of 
Italian  politics.  In  the  more  pleasing 
character  of  an  encourager  of  learning, 
the  name  of  Itula  Atene  bestowed  upon 
Urbino  in  his  time  is  perhaps  the  best 
evidence  of  bis  merits.  SismondL  calls 
bim  the  Mecaenas  of  the  fine  arts ;  his 
exploits  and  virtues  are  celebrated  by 
Giovanni  Santi,  the  father  of  Raphael, 
in  a  MS.  poem  in  terza  rimat  now  pre- 
served in  the  Vatican ;  but  his  highest 
eulogium  b  no  doubt  to  be  found  in 
the  unanimous  language  of  respect  and 
praise  in  which  Italian  writers  have 
delighted  to  picture  Urbino  as  the  seat 
of  science,  literature,  and  the  arts.  His 
wife,  the  Contessa  Battista  Sforza,  was 
in  no  way  inferior  to  himself:  her 
character  exercised  an  important  in- 
fluence in  forming  the  mind  of  her  son 
Guid*  Ubaldo,  and  her  virtues  are  re- 
corded in  glowing  colours  by  Bernardo 
Tas5M). 

Guid*  Ubaldo  I.,  by  his  lilieral  pa- 
tronage and  by  his  own  intellectual 
acquirements,  contributed  even  more 
than  his  father  to  raise  the  character 
of  Urbinu  as  a  school  of  art  and  taste. 
His  wife,  Elizabetta  Gonzaga  of  Man- 
tua, was  celebrated  no  less  for  her 
beauty  than  for  her  high  mental  ac- 
complishments and  domestic  virtues  : 
the  **  C'ortegiano  "  of  Castiglione  may 
be  taken  as  a  record  of  the  refine- 
ment for  which  Urbino  under  her 
auspices  was  remarkable.  Mr.  East- 
lake  ill  an  able  article  in  the  Quarterly 
Review,  No.  131.,  on  i'assavant*s 
JAFe  of  lisphav/,   observes    that  — 


"  Perhaps  no  praises  ever  bestowed 
on  woman  can  be  compared,  both  for 
eloquence  and  sincerity,  with  those 
contained  in  Bembo's  little  volume 
(De  Guido  Ubaldo,  &c.,  Romse, 
1548),  composed,  as  the  writer  tells 
us,  when  the  duchess  had  lost  her 
beauty  through  sorrow  and  misfor- 
tune. That  her  fame  was  long  re- 
membered in  England  we  can  hardly 
doubt ;  and  not  improbably  Shaks- 
peare  may  have  taken  from  Bembo's 
portraiture  a  hint  for  his  Miranda, 
e,ff,:  — 

'  Itaque  multas  ssepe  fseminas  vidi, 
audivi  etiam  esse  plures,  quae  certa- 
rum  omnino  virtutum,  optimarum 
({uidem  illarum  atque  clarissimarura, 
sed  tamen  perpaucarum,  splendore 
illustrarentur  :  in  qua  vero  omnes 
collectae  conjunctaeque  virtutes  con- 
spicerentur,  haec  una  extitit;  cujus 
omnino  parem  atque  similem,  aut 
etiam  inferiorem  paulo,  non  modo 
non  vidi  ullam,  sed  ea  ubi  esset  etiam 
ne  audivi  quidem.* 

■  *  for  several  virtues 

Have  I  liked  several  women ;  never  any 
With  so  full  soul  but  some  defect  in  her 
Did  quarrel  with  the  noblest  grace  she  owed 
And  put  it  to  the  foil ;  but  you,  O  you. 
So  perfect  and  so  peerless,  are  created 
Of  every  creature's  best.'" 

In  1497,  Guid'  Ubaldo,  command- 
ing the  papal  forces,  was  defeated  at 
Soriano  by  Vitellozzo  Vitelli,  lord  of 
Citta  di  Castello,  and  made  prisoner. 
Alexander  VI.  was  not  ashamed  to 
make  him  pay  40,000  ducats  for  his 
ransom,  although  he  had  lost  his  li- 
berty in  the  papal  cause ;  a  sum  which 
was  raised  partly  by  the  contributions 
of  his  subjects,  and  partly  by  his 
duchess,  who  sold  her  jewels  for  the 
purpose.  The  treachery  of  Cesar 
Borgia,  after  these  reverses  with  the 
Vitelli,  drove  the  duke  from  his  capi- 
tal to  take  refuge  in  the  north  of 
Italy ;  but  on  the  death  of  Alexander 
VI.  the  citizens  rose,  expelled  the 
partisans  of  Borgia,  and  brought  back 
Guid*  Ubaldo  in  triumph.  The 
accession  of  his  relative  Julius  II. 
(Giuliano  deWa  \Vo\eT«i^  lo  >Xv<i^«^^ 
chair  confiTmed  lYkv&  i^\.ox«X\otV)  ^^^ 


pontiff,   ' 


IKHTTB  17. — ^ORBnro. 


fSfieeM 


CEtablUbed  the  duhe  in  Iiis  pon- 
16    this    celebrated 

luite,  passed  three 
days  >1  Urbino  on  bis  nay  to  Bo- 
logna. During  Ihii  iitav  he  is  wid 
Id  have  become  acquainted  villi  Ra- 
,ph.el. 

-    Uuke  Guid'  Ubalda  and  his  amia- 

Ue  dueheu  were  well  known  in  Eng- 

'Und  i  the  duke  was  made  a  knigbi  of 

tbe  garter  by  Henry  VII.,  uid'Cu- 

tigllone  Tinted  London  as  his  proxy 

to  complete  the  ceremony  of  installn- 

In  return  for  ihi«  distinction, 

Ubstdo  tent  the  king  the  pic- 

if  St.  George  and  the  Dragon, 

lied  by  Kapkad  eiprcssly  for  the 

I  and  now  one  of  ilie  greatest 

lis  of  Ibe  galiery  of  the  Her- 

it  St.  Petenburg. 

In    1503    Francesco    Maria    detla 

ViSmere,    nephew   of  the    pope,   sue- 

eded  to  the  dukedom  of  Urbino.  on 

e  death  of  Guid'  Ubaldo ;  and  to 

nmendaliou  ihe 


Tela  in  the  Held  no  le^i  than  in  th. 

:ofhi5  polished  court.     Hi 

la  one  of  the  principal  coramanden 


pal   a 


Mirandola,  wl 

t  gallant   captitin<i    of  Jl^rance,    he 

J  brought  into  oppotitian  with  tbe 

|febeTBlier    sans    peur   et    sans    re- 

But    in    the    subsequent 

■Mmpaign  of  the  same  year  he  sus- 

'  a  signal  defeat  at  the  memora. 

ttle   of   Ca^iaIecchio,   May  SI. 

^^11.      This  battle,  as  already  men- 

ioned,  was  followed   by  the  loss  of 

^Um  Dtike  of  Urbino  that  the  panic 

iVbich  produced  it  was  caused  by  the 

aehery  of  Alidosi,  the  cardinal  le. 

Btify  his  conduct  to  Julius  11.,  that 

'     1  he  met  him  in  that  city  rcturn- 

rom  bis  interview  with  the  pope, 

inded  by  Ills  g-uard  and  by  all 

>nip   and  circumstance   of  his 


station,  the  duke,  unable  to  aubdne 
hit  passion,  rushed  among  the  crowd 
and  stabbed  the  legate  to  the  heart. 
in  tha  presence  of  his  soldiers. 

The  house  of  Rocere  and  the 
dependence  of  Urbino,  howeter,  «i 
not  destined  to  Burvive  the  fata  of 
other  princes  and  states  swallowed  up 
in  Ruccesuon  by  the  growing  power 
of  the  churrfi  i  and  in  little  more  than 
a  century  Jioth  had  become  ex^mib 
In  15HS  Francesco  Maria  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Guid'  Ubaldo  II.,  and  in 
1574  Francesco  MarU  II.  ascended  a 
(bronc  which  he  was  incapable  of  re- 
taining. In  1686  this  last  duke  of 
Urbino,  childlesH  and  old,  and  unable 

time,  vielded  to  the  entreaties  of  Ur. 

ban  VIII.,  and  abdicated  in  fa' 

of  the  Church.      The  latter  period  of 

turally  recnri  to  the  influence  of  the 

ture  by  Federigo  and  Guid'  Ubaldo. 
The  eollectiuns  of  ancient  and  moder 

riched,  and  the  distinj^ished  soeiet; 
brought  together  at  their  court,  miu 
haia  bad  an  important  eifect  on  the 
early  genius  of  lUpbael ;  and  his  ci 
neiion  wiih  the  court  no  doubt  pi 
lided  him  with  powerful  friends,  whose 
influence  was  subsequently  available 
at  Rome  and  Florence.  Raphoe' 
spent  his  early  years,  to  the  age  of 
twenty-one,  between  Urbino  and  Pe- 
rugia, and  hid  works,  in  many 
stances,  bcnr  evidence  of  those  precepts. 
of  tsste  which  guided  the  social  and 
domestic  habits  of  the  court  of  Mon- 
lofeltro,  as  perpetuated  in  the  "  Cor. 
tegiano."  "  The  resource!  and  renown 
if  Ibis  little  dukedom,  improved  and 
ipheld  by  Federiga  da  Montcfeltro, 
■emained  ultimately  unimpaired  in 
he  bands  of  his  succeamr  Guidl 
Ubalda  ;  the  state,  in  short,  was 

led  to  the  field,  by  hereditary  sove- 
reigns, before  Florence  had  learned 
In  yield  even  to  temporary  sh 
That  a  Tuscan  initjit  qo  art.  fhould 


Pcfoi  Staie$J\    bouts  17*— tURbino. — Ducal  Palace.  145 


be  nlent  on  tbe  past  glories  of  a  neigh- 
bouring state  is  quite  natural ;  but  it 
seems  unaccountable  that  so  many 
biographers  in  following  Vasari  should 
bare  overlooked  tbe  remarkable  cir- 
cumstances by  which  Raphael  was 
surrounded  in  his  youth  -» circum- 
itances  which  must  not  only  have  had 
an  influence  on  his  taste,  but  which 
brought  him  in  contact  with  the  most 
celebrated  men  of  his  age»  many  of 
whom  afterwards  served  him,  at  least 
with  the  communication  of  their  learn- 
ing, when  he  was  employed  at  the 
eourt  of  Rome."— -Quarf.  Bev,  cxxxi. 

It  is,  however,  remarkable,  that 
although  Raphael  is  known  to  have 
punted  several  pictures  at  his  native 
place,  none  now  remain  there ;  and 
the  specimens  shown  as  the  produc- 
tions of  his  boyish  days  are  certainly 
not  authentic.  Raphael  was  born  at 
UrlMno  on  the  6th  April  (Good  Fri- 
day), 1483.  Among  the  other  re- 
markable men  to  whom  it  gave  birth 
may  be  mentioned  Baroceio  tbe 
painter ;  Timoteo  del  la  Vite,  the 
pupil  of  Raphael ;  Polydore  Vergil, 
e^brated  in  the  history  of  the  Re- 
fonnation  as  the  last  collector  of  the 
Peter  pence  in  England ;  and  Cle- 
ment XI.,  of  the  princely  family  of 
Albani.  For  an  inquiry  into  the  in- 
fluence of  tbe  court  of  Urbino  on  the 
rarly  genius  of  Raphael,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  admirable  critique  on 
Paasavant's  Life  of  Raphael,  in  the 
Quarterly  Reviewy  already  quoted. 

Urbino,  independently  of  its  histo- 
rical and  artistic  associations,  still 
c'cmtains  much  to  interest  and  instruct 
the  stranger. 

The  magnificent  Ducal  Palace  built 
by  Fe<1erigo  di  Montcfeltro,  fiom  tbe 
designs  of  Luciano  Lauranna,  which 
was  reputed  at  the  time  of  its  erec- 
tion to  be  the  finest  edifice  of  its  kind 
which  Italy  had  then  seen,  is  still,  in 
many  respects,  without  a  rival  as  a 
specimen  of  the  einque  cento  style,  llie 
tasteful  imitation  of  the  antique  for 
which  this  style  is  remarkable  is  here 
ccmibined  with  Yightnesa  of  propor- 
tkmM  mad  extnordinary  ricbnesa   of 


decoration.  The  doors,  windows,  cor* 
nices,  pilasters,  and  chimney-pieces 
are  covered  with  arabesque  carvings  of 
foliage,  trophies,  and  other  ornaments 
of  such  singular  beauty  and  variety 
that  no  description,  indeed  nothing 
short  of  actual  casts,  could  give  any 
idea  of  their  elegance  and  profusion. 
These  sculptures  were  the  work  of 
Francesco  di  Giorgio  of  Siena,  as- 
sisted by  Ambrogio  Baroceio,  ancestor 
of  the  great  painter,  whose  execution 
of  the  architectural  foliage  is  praised 
by  Giovanni  Sauti  in  the  MS.  poem 
in  terza  rima  to  which  we  have  already 
referred.  The  saloons  and  other  apart- 
ments are  well  proportioned  and  hand- 
some, although  the  frescoes  with  which 
many  of  them  were  painted  have  dis« 
appeared.  The  room  adjoining  the 
library  was  decorated  with  portraits 
representingi^e  celebrated  men  of  all 
ages :  these  also  have  been  destroyed. 
The  inlaid  ornaments  or  tarsia  of  the 
panelling  were  by  Maestro  Giacomo 
of  Florence.  In  one  of  the  saloons 
may  still  be  seen  a  fine  piece  of  tapes- 
try worked  in  1 380,  representing  the 
duke  and  his  party  on  a  hawking  ex- 
cursion. The  galleries  have  a  valu- 
able collection  of  ancient  inscribed 
stones,  Roman  as  well  as  early  Chris- 
tian, chiefly  found  in  tbe  neighbour- 
hood of  the  city.  This  is,  however, 
but  the  wreck  of  the  large  collection 
of  bronze  and  marble  statues  which 
Castiglione  has  described.  Nothing 
certain  is  known  of  the  fate  of  this 
collection,  but  it  is  supposed  on  good 
grounds  that  it  was  transferred  to  the 
Vatican,  where  the  ducal  library  is 
still  preserved. 

The  Fortifications^  which  were  also 
considered  a  remarkable  work  at  the 
time  of  their  erection,  vere  designed 
and  probably  executed  by  Francesco 
di  Giorgio  of  Siena. 

The  Cathedral  contains  two  paint- 
ings by  BarocciOt  worthy  of  being 
ranked  among  his  masterpieces :  one 
is  the  Martyrdom  of  S.  Sebastian  ; 
and  the  other  is  the  Last  Sv\^v^x^  ^ 
work  remarkabW  ioi  \\."&  x\c\\\\^«&  ^1 
composition    a\\(V    co\o\m\\^.      '^>-^ 

H 


ns 


fiO&ta  '17.— URBiso. — C^un-hes. 

Apoi^liiB,  pniiited    fuele    Sante,"   and 


[Sfectr 


.mall  pictures  of  th 
for  ibe  saeriity  by 
^  into,  jiutifr  the  prunes  of  Lonzi  by 
"    >  beauty  and  tbe  grand  Myle  of 
ir  dnpery.      'ITie  sarruiy  also  con- 
1  of  the   hen  coUectioni  of 
ileh   plate  and  cmbruidery  whicb 
'    retsined  after  the  Frencli  inra- 
.      It  WBB  almost  wliolly  the  gift 
|Cthe  Princa  Cardinal  Annibale  Al- 
tai, to  whom  more  than  to  any  olher 
(■n.  the  raodein  pnwgierity  of  Urbino 
tlributable.      These  treasures  are 
worlby  a  Tisit  from  evety  stranger. 
IfTIre  ChunA  of  S.  Francaco  bos  N 
»  pinture  by  GioBonni  Saali,  repre- 
btingtheVirgin  and  Child,  with  St. 
■        'ou,  salnu  kneeling  iu 
was  long  supposed  that 
■  punter  hud  introduced  into  this 
fcture  portraits  of  himself,  his  wife, 
^'     ■     r  child  the  in&M  Raphael ; 
noir  Lnown  Ihal  this  opinion 
ueouSt  and  that  the  painting 
r  Bola  of  one  of  bis  patroofi. 
ITlo  Cliurch  a/S.  Fnaeeico  diPaota 
.zontalns  two  works  by  Titinyi,  one  ro- 
preunlinic  the  Resurrection,  tbe  other 
the  Last  Supper. 
[■     The  sacristy  of  S.  Glatppe  has  a 
Madonna    by   Tnaatca  dcUa  lite, 
iieuit  and  pupil  of  Huphacl. 
lie  oratory  of  the  QmfraUmilA  di 
GiatamU  is  covered  with  paintings 
1^  Lormta  da  S.  Seeeriuo  and  his  bro- 
ther, Ibllowen  of  the  school  ofGiulto, 
representing  larious  scriptaral  erents 
and  possessing 


the 

w 


Tbeg 


nd  Cruoiliiii 


ill  behind  the 
nltar,  although  injured  by  neglect,  is 
fullofeipression. 

Tile  Ckuith  of  Sta.  Chiara  has  in 

risty  a  patndng  by  Giorgio  Aa- 

ibrtnerly    believed   to    be    by 

Dte;  it  represents  a  circular  sr- 

litectural  buililing  with   Corinthian 

'Rasters,  like   thjt  in  the  S|>osaliilo 

and  other    picturen   of    ilaphael  and 


Raphael  for  Frai 


si-,, 


The  ChHTiA  of  Sta.  Apab 
able  for  a  proof  of  the  liberality  ahown 
by  Federigo  di  Montelellro  In  the  diK- 
tribution  of  his  patronage, 
oil  picture  hy  JiMut  ban  GhtnU  pupil 
of  Van  Eyck,  and  is  dated  1  Hi.  ' 
the  background  be  Ijos  introduced  tbe 


duke 


-ilh    < 


self.  K 


ruguio. 


isoFtheSlB.  Chi. 


ouBly  attributed  to  Raphael ;  one  c 
(/•cm,  by  Jiaffhelmo  dil  Garbo,  beat 
liicse  inscriptions  on  the  Ijaei:,  "  Kal 


Venetian    Calerino   Zeno, 
then  residing  at  the  court  of  Urbino 
tbe  Persian  ambassador. 

The  Capwhin    Cmriat,  situated 
little  beyond  thewalls,  conUins  one 
the  finest  works  of  flamcciD,  the  St. 
Francis   in    ecstasy,  another  painting 
worthy  of  the  Vatican. 

The  House  of  SaphatI,  in  wbiah  tlie 
divine  painter  first  drew  breath,  v 
not  fail  to  command  tlie  respect  t 

seriplion    over  the  door   records  : 
event  in  the  fuUuwing  terms :  — 


Ne  Mik' 


On  one  of  the  walls  is  a  Madonna 
sleeping  child,  long  supposed  to  b( 
of  the  griail  painter's  boyish  attempts  j 
but  it  is  now  k  nown  to  be  by  hi 
Giovaniii  Santi;  and  Urbino  d 
contain  a  siogle  production  of  that 
pencil  whose  fame  has  BUcd  the  world, 
It  is,  howeier.  -iot-j  probable 
I  origin«\s  oS  Ihw 


now  Tnv.dk 


PtfalStala.2    R.  18. — ubbimo  to  citta  di  castello.      1+7 

ioJuTcd    hj   rppuDting,    were  MigiB  ( . 
CUrla  the  vife  ot  GioTinni  Santi,  and 
Ihrir  inlant  nn  Raphael. 

Tlu  rAcnfn,  lorateTlj  celebrated  for 
it!  decorations  bj  Ginlaaio  Gtapa,  t, 
pupil  of  PietTo  PfTugino,  is  also  re- 
markable u  tbe  place  wben  the  first 
Italian  comedy  waa  Tcpresentcd,  tbe 
"  Calandria"  of  Cardinal  Bibiena. 

In  the  liiteentb  century  Uibino 
waa  {amoui  for  iti  nianu&ctory  ol 
eartheaware,  perfected  in  1538,  under 


■aid  to  hai 


:  inlrodueed  it 


andsc 


loGubbio 


from  thi(  cit;  ii 
waa  the  celebritj  of  Url>iiio  fat  tbe 
fiibric,  that  Mieitro  Roviga  of  Urbino 
in  1534  established  a  bctwy  at  Per- 
mignann.  In  the  beginning  of  the 
iHt  century,  under  Dement  XI. (Al- 

XIII..  Urbino  became  fiuDOU 8  far  its 
manu&ctories  of  ptns,  neediest  and 
Gre-arniB  :  its  eileniive  pin  monoftc-  j 
tory,  the  Toluabla  property  ol  tbe  I 
Allian!  family,  still  gives  cmplormeiit  I 
to  hundreds,  and  supplies  nearly  all  I 
the  Papal  States. 

ITie  bishopric  of  Uibino  daleifrom  I 
tbe  year  313,  S.  EiandobeiiiK  the  first 


0  Sto.  Cius^na 

tins  to  Citta  di  Castello 

—  toBocgoS.Scpolcro 


Au  on  Iht  Road.— ThtonXy  sleep- 
ing place  is  at  i>.  Atgelo. 

This  is  a  long  day's  journey  for  a 

load,  carried  vith  great  sliilt  over  the 
central  chain  of  the  Apennines  at  the 
extremity  of  the  Moute  della  Luna, 
Eind  constructed  at  the  joint  eipenie  of 
the  Papal  and  Tuscan  gOTemments. 

The  oscent  becomes  steep  after  leav- 
ing Urbino,  and  oxen  are  re^juired. 
On  approaching  Urbania  it  again  de- 


by  Pius  IV.  iu  IseS.      The  lin^t  com. 

^cends,    commanding   beaulirul  views 

plete  I-alin  Grammar   vas  puhli^ed 

of  the  town  and  yalley.      The  moun. 

nt  Urbino  in  J494,  by  Venlurini,  the 

tains  whicLi  are  so  conspicuous  between 

jireceplor  of  Michael  Angelo  at  Flo- 

Urbino and    Urbania,  and  which  are 

rence.      Its   college,  under  the  direc- 

such remarkable  objects  from  tbe  for- 

tion    of    the    Scolopii    of    Florence, 

mer  cily.  are  the  Monte  Acerto,  whose 

numbers    scvcnty-sii    students    vho 

height    is   stated   by   Calindci   to   be 

rccei.e  instruction  in    law,  medicine, 

5,173  Paiisfect  above  tbe  seal  Monte 

and  theology.      Urbino  is  not  without 

Catria,  celebrated  for  tbe  convent  of 

S.  Albertino,  5,223  feet  i  and  Monte 

num  IIorten,se  of  Pliny,  and  was  the 

Nerone,    4,570  feet       llie  latter  is 

place  where    Valens    the  general   of 

rich  in  rare  plants,  marbles,  and  iron, 

Vitvllius  WAS  put  to  death. 

and  in  the  time  of  the  Italian  repub. 

A    dilleence    runs    three   times    a 

lie  considerable  c|uantiliei  of  iron  were 

week  beiwwn  Urlrino  and  Pwaro,  23 

obtained,  but  nu  subsequent  attempts 

mile*.  _  'i'iie  mad  descends  nortlm-ards 

to   work    it    were   maile   until    1847. 

on  leaning  L'rbino,  and  proceeds  along 

when   M.    Felix    Gauthier,  a  French 

the  left  hank  of  the  torrent  which  flows 

engineer,  director  of  the  iron  foundry 

from   Urbino   into  the    Foglia  below 

at  Terni,  after  two  years'  search,  dis- 

^lontecchiu.       It   passes  on  the  left 

eotered  a  vein   whiib  extends  from 

Coldauo  and  Colbordolo.  and  on  the 

Monte  Noioiie  to  the  tmm  kX.  l^>Mi6» 

right  Ptiimmtad  Srm  di  Genga. 

Tadiiii.Bnd  i>\nc\\a^\'ieu«ui\i«>L^«T^ 

f    Iron,  sod  Ibat  of  Toita,  will  si 


y  itarul  in  need  ofj  includiiig 
M  quuililies  required  for  iron  bridges 
d  the  projected  milwajn.  The  road 
"eMeUuKist  ! 

i  E/rhtHia  (IS  m.).  »  nnall  lovn  of 
HK)  souls,  situated  on  Ilie  tigbt  Imnk  ' 
near  tlie  site  of  the  Uriri-  ' 
n  MeWureiise  of  PUny.  The  pre-  | 
as  buih  (roiD  (be  ruins  of 
iulel  Ripenw  in  the  tliirteenth  cen-  . 
,,  b;  Guglielmo  Dursute,  bishop  | 
(  Merido,  who  gave  it  the  Dame  of  j 

i  by   Ihe  early  Italian  wrilers.  [ 
I   1635    Urban  Vllt.   created   it    a  I 
changed   its  name  to    Ur- 
le  also  made  il  an  episcopal ' 
n  conjunction  with  S.  An^lo  in 
At  Cattel  Durante,  it  ia  oele-  | 
(■ted  ai  the  birthplace  of  numerous 
manle  was  bom  at  Strella, 
stant,   in  1444.      Urbania 
(■  not  wiihoul  its  pictures;  the  Con- 
:i  di  Corpus  Domini  has  some 
n  frescoes  by  Raffiidc  del  CalU,  and 
M  S.  Francesco  has  n  Madonna  by  Ba- 
The  chapel  of  the  Materoiii 
il  very  richly  decorated. 
^  The  road  for  some  disIsiicE,  naw 
^te  level,  ascends  the  valley  of  the' 
iro,  erosaing  the  river  at  S,  An- 1 
1  Vado,  (Tm.),  a  small  town  of  I 
inhabitants,  built  upon  the  site  I 
femum  MetHurense,  and  raised 
.nicipal  rank  by  Urban  VIII.  in 
95.  (/br.' Locanda  FaggJoli.apDDr 
Hvil  people.)  The  cathedral 
^dedicated  ti>  St.  Michael  Ihe  Arch- 
gel.     The  church  of  Sia.  CaUrina 
IS  a  picture  by  Fedtrij/it  Zuccari  with 
portraits  of  the  painter  and  his  family, 
whidi    was    once    in    Milan.       This 
j.ainler   and  Clemen.  XIV.    (Ganga. 
,wlli}  were  bor„  here. 
»^»C  roarf  jiroet-i-tli  along  the  right 


TO  CITTA  Dl  CASTELI.0,      fSeCt.  T. 

in,    hank  of  the  river  to  Mercatella  (4  ra.), 


f .  thetesB  frequently  make  their  resling- 

r  the  Metauro  commences  at  this  spot 
1 1  from  the  union  of  the  Metro  and  the 
1 1  Auro,  and  pursues  from  hence  to  tlio 
;  sea  a  cnurae  of  fifty-seven  miles.  At 
t  Lamole  {em.),  near  Borgo  Pace, 
oien  Bie  procured  to  ascend  the  moun. 
tain.  The  road  Is  carried  up  by  a 
series  of  well-contrived  zigzags,  and 
its  construction  is  fully  equal  to  that 
of  the  Alpine  roads  of  the  Tyrol. 
Although  on  a  smaller  scale,  it  is  not 
unlike  some  parti  of  tlie  Brenner. 
The  country  abounds  with  oaks  and 
beech,  purticuls 


r  the  Bi 


tible.  The  ascent  from  I.amolt 
the  summit  (6  m.),  which  the  natives 
call  Bocca  TrabaTii,  and  which  is 
about  S150  feet  above  the  plain  of 
S.  Ciustino,  seldom  occupies  less  than 
two  hours  and  a  half  The  western 
side  of  Ihe  mountain  Is  by  no  meaiu 
so  sleep  as  the  eastern ;  and  Iwo  houti 

lino  (1 0  Dl.).  During  the  descent  the 
view  over  the  fine  rich  plain  of  the 
Tihi'r,  with  CitU  di  CastcDo  and 
Borgo  San  Sepolero,  is  very  fine. 
The  road  is  earned  down  the  moun- 
tain in  a  tnoEterly  manner,  and  is  ge- 
nerally well  kepi      At  the  very  foot 

SB-iGit«(i«o(l'om.l,  formerly  a  plncB 
of  some  strength,  which  gave  the 
title  of  count  to  the  Bulaliiil  family. 
It   is  famous  for  ils  mannraclory  of 

tliose  of  the  Val  d'Arno.      The  only 

Patazio  Bufitini,  whose  fine  apart- 
ments were  painted  by  Cristoforo 
Cherardi  (Doano)  in  a  style  which  baa 
been  highly  praised  by  Vaaari.  The 
palace  vras  much  injured  by  the  earth- 
quake of  nsa.  San  Giusllno  is  just 
within  ttiu  (toiniar  of  the  Papal  States : 


PtpalSiaiei,']  ft.  18. — citta  di  castello. — Cathedral.       149 


md  tmrellers  proceeding  into  Tus- 
cany must  have  their  passports  viseed 
at  the  fh>ntier  village  of  Cospaja. 

From  San  Giustino  two  roads 
branch  off;  that  to  the  north  leading 
into  Tuscany  by  Borgo  San  Sepolcro 
and  Arezzo  (Route  19.),  and  that  to 
the  south  to  Cittil  di  Castello  and  Pe- 
rugia. The  road  from  San  Giustino 
to  Cittil  di  Castello,  passes  over  a  por- 
tion of  the  highly  cultivated  plain  of 
the  Tiber,  presenting  the  appearance 
of  a  continued  vineyard. 

CrrTA  DI  Castello,  (6  m.)  (Inns: 
Locanda  Lorenzone,  clean  and  very 
tolerable ;  La  Cannoniera).  This 
agreeable  and  interesting  city  of  5300 
souls,  the  birth-place  of  numerous 
artists,  and  of  Pope  Celestin  II.,  is 
pleasantly  situated  near  the  left  bank 
of  the  Tiber.  It  is  remarkable  no 
less  for  the  numerous  works  of  art 
which  it  contains,  than  for  the  courtesy 
and  intelligence  of  its  inhabitants ; 
and  it  is  one  of  those  towns  so  often 
met  with  in  Southern  Italy,  where  a 
atranger,  even  unprovided  with  intro- 
ductions, may  calculate  on  fmding 
friends.  It  occupies  the  site  of  Ti- 
lernum  Tiberinum,  celebrated  by  Pliny 
the  younger,  who  was  chosen  at  an 
early  age  to  be  its  patron,  and  who 
built  a  temple  there  at  his  own  cost. 
Tifemum  was  one  of  the  fortified  towns 
destroyed  by  Totila ;  the  present  city 
rose  from  its  ruins  under  the  auspices 
of  S.  Florido,  its  patron  saint.  In 
the  fifteenth  century,  Citta  di  Castello 
was  governed  by  the  illustrious  family 
of  Vitelli,  whose  military  exploits  hold 
so  high  a  rank  in  the  history  of  Italian 
warfare.  Vitellozzo  Vitelli  was  the 
conqueror  of  the  Duke  of  Urbino  at 
Soriano ;  but  his  chivalrous  character 
did  not  protect  him  from  treachery, 
and  he  became  one  of  the  victims  of 
Cttsar  Borgia  at  the  infamous  mas- 
sacre of  Sinigallia.  Giovanni  Vitelli 
signalised  himself  at  the  siege  of 
Mirandola  under  Julius  II.,  and  in- 
deed there  are  few  members  of  the 
fiimily  who  do  not  figure  in  the  poll- 
tJea)  iraasactiona  of  the  Bfleentb  and 


sixteenth  centuries.  The  Vitelli  had 
also  the  more  distinguished  honour  of 
being  among  the  earliest  patrons  of 
Raphael,  who,  notwithstanding  the 
defeat  sustained  by  his  sovereign, 
Guid*  Ubaldo,  became  a  resident  at 
the  court  of  Vitellozzo  in  the  year 
succeeding  that  event.  Many  of  his 
earliest  works  were  painted  here,  and 
were  preserved  in  the  churches  and 
private  galleries  for  which  they  were 
executed,  until  dispersed  by  the  French 
invasion.  The  well-known  Sposalizio, 
or  Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  now  in  the 
Brera  at  Milan,  was  stolen  from  the 
Albizzini  chapel  in  the  church  of  S. 
Francesco.  The  church  of  S.  Agos- 
tino  contained  the  Coronation  of  St. 
Nicholas  of  TdtntinOj  the  first  work 
which  Raphael  painted  in  the  town : 
it  was  much  damaged,  and  the  upper 
portion  of  it  had  been  sold  to  Pius  VI., 
but  it  was  taken  from  the  Vatican  by 
the  French,  and  can  no  longer  be 
traced.  The  chapel  of  the  extinct 
Gavari  family  in  the'church  of  S.  Do- 
menico  contained  the  well-known  pic- 
ture of  the  Crucifixion^  which  was  for 
some  time  the  ornament  of  the  gallery 
of  Cardinal  Fesch,  whence  it  passed  to 
that  of  the  Prince  of  Canino,  and  is  now 
the  property  of  Lord  Ward.  It  was 
sold  by  the  representatives  of  the  fa- 
mily for  whom  it  was  painted,  in  1809. 
The  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  now  in  the 
Berlin  Museum,  and  the  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin,  in  the  Vatican,  are  also 
believed  to  have  been  painted  during 
Raphaers  residence  in  Citta  di  Cas- 
tello. In  spite  of  these  losses,  it  will 
presently  be  seen  that  the  city  still 
retains  two  small  pictures  by  this 
great  master,  besides  the  works  of 
other  painters,  sufficient  to  form  the 
museum  of  a  capital. 

The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  S.  Flo- 
rido, a  native  of  the  city,  appears,  on 
the  authority  of  an  ancient  inscription, 
to  occupy  the  site  of  the  temple  of 
Felicity,  erected  by  the  younger  Pliny, 
or,  more  correctly,  the  site  of  earlier 
Christian  edifices  cox\s\.tw^\.^^  vcv  ^^ 
ruins  of  the  pagan  tftTK^X^,    *W\^  ^x^x. 


HOCTB  IS.  — CITTA  DI  CASTELLO, —  Cath^ml.  '^Seet^. 


1  built  in  lOl-i  by  Pieli 


ffom  the 


iigni,  « 


,  of  Bran 


ordiog  t, 


le  joii 


the  VilBlli 
tamlly.  'Die  ptlnciiiAl  f:<f  ule,  like  so 
mnny  others  in  Italian  churebn,  was 
ne<er  completed:  it  was  begun  by  the 
biahup  RBcagna  in  I(i31,  and 'carried 
as  far  as  the  eapilals  of  tlie  columns, 
but  after  tus  deatli  no  atlempt  vaa 
made  to  finish  it.  The  present  edifice 
ii  bnilt  of  Xettiaf/  sandstone,  in  the 

enter  into  anj  details  of  the  interior, 
iti  rich  Gothic  ddarway,  irliioh  lie- 
longed  to  the  old  church,  demands 
attention.  This  fine  relic  is  a  remark. 
able  Rpeciuien  of  the  most  beauti^l 
and  elaborate  Gothic  carving.     It  has 

ride  are  four  spiral  columna  with  richly 
sculptured  CBpitali,  and  every  part  of 
it  is  covered  with  folia^-e  nod  other 
omHmenla.  The  baa-relie&  upon  it 
lepreseul  Justice  vilh  the  sirord  over- 
coming Iniquity,  Mercy  vith  the  lily, 
&e. ;  and  in  the  open  spaces  between 
the  tendrils  of' 


ne«l  chapel,  dedicated  to  Si.  John 
Baptist,  contains  a  copy  of  Raphael's 
Buptism  of  the  Saviour,  in  the  Loggie 
of  the  Vatican.  The  ohapel  of  the 
Angela  Custodc  contoiois  the  Guardian 
Angel,  and  the  Virgin  in  the  clouds 
'  led  by  angels,  by  Paertti,  better 
.  OS  ^uuitna,  which  Lanzi  no- 
'itii  praise.  In  the  tympanum 
of  the  altar  is  a  head  of  the  Almighty, 
by  Gagliardi,  whose  beat  works  are 
considered  by  Lanci  to  be  the  Angel 
Raphael  and  the  boy  Tobias,  also  in 
this  chapeL  The  two  pictures  repre- 
senting tlie  history  of  Tobias  on  tbe 
lateral  walls,  which  are  described  by 
I.Anzi  as  "  iiuadri  condotti  con  finesn. 
e  graiia  noo  vulgare,"  arc  by  nrffSia 
Diieci,  a  native  painter,  little  known 
except  as  a  pupil  of  Albani.  Tbe 
adjoining  chapel,  belonging  to  the 
Ranucci  family,  and  dedicated  to  the 
Archangel  Michael,  is  entirely  painted 
by  Sgitaziiiio.  The  chapel  of  tha 
Assunzicne  di  Maria  Vergine  bu  a 
picture  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  by  Gto- 
vmai  Serodine.  The  chapd  of  the 
Madonna  del  Soccorso  contains  a  large 
oil  painting  of  the  Virgin  and  several 
saints,  painted  by  Gagliardi  in  twenty- 
four  hours.      TTie  chapel  of 


eitlle 


typical  or  deacriplive  of  Sciiptui 
lory — the  Pelican  feeding  her  young, 
the  Death  of  Abel,  St.  Amantius,  a 
native  snint,  and  his  serpent,  the  An- 
nunciation, tlie  Vbitatiou,  the  Nativity, 
the  Saeriiice  of  Isaac,  &c. 


Tie 
paintiujirs.  chiefly  by  nativi 


iting  in  the 
liitnry  of  art.  The  principal  of  these 
llie  following: — tbe  first  ohapel 
light  of  the  main  entrance 
the  picture  by  Bennrdina 
Gagliardi,  a  native  artist,  which  Lanzi, 
hffs  described  as  "^  un  qnadro  cccellcnte 
per  I'  BflVlto,  nel  resto  mediocre."  It 
lepreients  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Cre- 


by  Niccald  Ciivigmaii  of  Volterra, 
which  was  stolen  in  1B09:  it  has  been 
replaced  by  an  Indifferent  painting 
of  B.  Veronica  Giuliani,  by  I^wmaso 
CoBco.  The  Sto.  Anna  and  S.  Zac- 
caria  are  believed  to  be  by  CircignaMi, 
but  others  refer  them  to  Einaldo  Ri' 
naldi,  who  painted  tbe  frescoes  of  the 
chapel.  The  Cipota  was  built  by 
Niceold  Barbimi,  a  native  architect, 
and  painted  by  Marco  BcHCfiali  the 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and  the  Doctors 
of  the  Church,  the  fine  Assumption  of 
the  'Vii^in,  on  the  vault,  and  tbe  poii ' 
ings  cif  the  tribune,  some  representing 
events  ofthe  Old  Testament,  and  others 
the  life  and  actions  of  S.  Crescentian 
and  S.  Florido,  are  among  his 
works.  Tbe  tariia,  or  inlaid  work 
of  the  stalls  of  the  choir,  is  worthy  of 
eKumvnatloti  \  ^^e  de^^«  for  the  first 
sii  on  eat\\  svde^^eAjttu  aVXifa^X^^ 


TapaiStaies,']  r,  18. — citta  di  castello. — Cathedral.      151 


to  Raphael,  but  they  are  more  proba- 
bly to  be  referred  to  Raffaele  del  CoUe : 
these  dettgns  represent  subjects  taken 
from  the  Old  and  New  Testaments, 
while  the  remaining  .twenty- two  are 
illu^rative  of  the  lives  and  actions  of 
the  saints  who  were  natives  of  |he  city. 
The  two  singing  galleries  of  wstlnut- 
wood  are  remarkable  for  their  carv- 
ings, supposed  to  have  been  executed 
by  the  artists  of  the  stalls  in  the  choir. 
llie  gallery  on  the  side  of  the  Sacristy 
has  a  bas-relief  of  the  Crucifixion ; 
that  on  the  other  side  of  the  church 
has  the  £cce  Homo,  with  S6.  Lorenzo 
and  Amanzio;  at  the  extremities  are 
the  four  evangelists,  with  St.  Jerome, 
St.  Gregory  the  Great,  St.  Augustin, 
and  St.  Ambrose.  The  Capellone,  or 
chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramento,  built 
by  Barbioni,  the  architect  of  the  cu- 
pola, contains  the  great  picture  of  the 
Transfiguration,  by  Bosso  FiorentinOf 
praised  by  Vasari  and  by  Lanzi,  in 
which  the  strange  fancy  and  imagina- 
tion of  the  artist  are  combined  with 
rich  colouring  and  wonderful  power 
of  design.  The  Sacristy  was  famous 
for  its  riches  prior  to  the  French  in- 
vasion of  1798;  it  now  contains  but 
a  small  portion  of  its  former  treasures. 
In  the  llecord-room  of  the  Chapter 
is  preserved  the  ancient  altarpiecc  of 
carved  silver,  which  D'Agincourt  has 
described  at  length  in  his  celebrated 
work.  It  was  presented  to  the  cathe* 
dral  of  this  his  native  town  by  Celes- 
tin  II.  in  the  twelfth  century  ;  the 
sculptures  represent  subjects  in  the 
Life  of  Christ,  the  Nativity,  the  Ador- 
ation of  the  Magi,  the  Visitation,  and 
various  saints.  It  is  considered  by 
D'Agincourt,  who  calls  it  a  "  magni- 
ficent work,"  to  be  a  specimen  of  the 
Greek  school,  either  purchased  in 
Greece,  or  executed  in  Italy  by  Gre- 
cian artists.  An  adjoining  chamber 
contains  portraits  of  bishops  of  the  see 
and  of  benefactors  to  the  cathedral. 
Tlie  Subterranean  Church  is  of  vast 
size,  supported  by  low  and  massive 
buttresses ;  it  has  an  air  of  venerable 
grandeur,  which  ia  increased  by  the 
p/cturesfjue   effect  of  its   numerous 


columns  and  chapels.    It  contains  the 
relics  of  S.  Florido. 

The  Church  of  San  Francesco,  for- 
merly a  Gothic  edifice,  of  which  the 
exterior  still  affords  an  example,  con- 
tains in  the  first  chapel  on  the  right 
of  the  entrance  the  Stoning  of  Ste- 
phen by  Niccold  Clrcignani  —  the 
second  contains  a  picture  of  San 
Bernardino  di  Siena,  by  Tommaso 
Conca,  and  a  silver  reliquiary  of  the 
16th  century,  containing  the  relics  of 
St.  Andrew  the  apostle  ;  the  third 
has  the  Annunciation,  by  Niccoid 
Circignani,  with  the  date  1575 :  the 
fourth  contains  the  Assumption  of 
th^  Virgin,  with  all  the  Apostles  be- 
low, a  beautiful  work  of  Rojfaele  dtl 
Culle,  whose  genius  ct*\  only  be  appre- 
ciated in  this  and  the  neighbouring  city 
of  BorgoS.  Sepolcro;  this  fine  painting 
is  described  by  lianzi  as  *'  grande, 
leggiadro,  finito  quanto  puo  dirsi ;  e 
avendo  a  fronte  un  bcl  quadro  del 
Vasari,  lo  fa  quasi  cadere  in  avvili- 
mento."  In  the  adjoining  chapel  is  a 
fine  i)icture  of  the  Conception,  by 
Antonio,  the  little^known  son  of  the 
elder  Circignani.  On  the  left  hand, 
the  first  chapel  belonging  to  the  Vi- 
telli  family  contains  the  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin,  with  St.  Catherine,  St. 
Jerome,  St.  Nicholas  of  Tolentino, 
and  other  saints,  one  of  the  finest 
works  of  Giorgio  Vasari,  alluded  to  by 
Lanzi  in  the  passage  just  quoted.  In 
this  chapel  are  buried  many  illustrious 
members  of  the  house  of  Vitelli.  The 
stalls  or  seats  are  worked  in  tarsia, 
representing  the  life  of  St.  Francis. 
In  the  adjoining  chapel  is  St.  Francis 
receiving  the  Stigmata,  in  terra-cotta, 
which,  as  well  as  the  stalls  just  men- 
tioned, has  sulFercd  very  great  in- 
jury. It  is  attributed  to  Luca  della 
liobbia,  but  is  more  probably  the  work 
of  Agostino  and  Andrea,  the  brother 
and  nephew  of  that  great  artist. 

The  Church  of  S,  Agontino  formerly 
contained   the   celebrated   picture   of 
St.  Nicholas  of  Tolentino,  by  Raphael ; 
the  Nativity  and  the  AdoTQLV.\»\\  ^^  \\\^ 
Magi,  by  LiMca  §»vv:,wot<^\\  >X\^  ^'v- 
John   BaptiBl,  o?  P«LTX£vv%Aa\vQ\  ^' 


HOUTE  18. CITTA  T)T  CA! 

ere  or  th(^  Innocents^  by  N.  Cir- 

nanL ;  aad  lUe  A^vi^iuiuii,  in  terra 

1,  by  Luca  dclU  Rollbls  :  but  nil 

K  fine  wutks  were  itolen  and  dii- 

1  the  French  iniaiion.      The 

:liun:h   iaa  little  interefit  be- 

noderri   work   by  aialU,  re- 

ig  &   FranccHO  di  Sale*,    8. 

>,  ond  S.  Franceses  di  dianUl. 

.he  SposalUio  of 


-f^uretia.     ^Sect.T. 


phael. 

u  ChHrdi  of  S.  BarMammta  has  s  ' 

lily  eolournl  painting,  lepresEnting 

""irlyrdom  of  the   Apoetle,   by 

m.     lo  the  wall  by  the  side  of. 

r  is  K  bu-relief  of  tlit^  eleventh 

twelfth  century,  in  pepetino.  which  | 

,   from   Ihc    ciborium    in    thei 

hnipat*r''^nt,  to  have  belonged 

D  altar  of  the  Holy  Saeramcnt. 

lateral  Sgures  represent  St.  Bar- 

ew    and    St,    Benedict,    above 

are  Sta.  Scolnstica  and  another 

Over  the  ciborium  ia  an  Ecce 

The  firesCQ  of  the  Crucifiiion  | 

le  luristy  ia  said  Co  Ue  by  NiccM 


t  Chur, 


ofS 


.  Oitrrina  c 


1  painting  n 


,    praying,    by   Andrea    Carlima, 
B  worlcB  are  found  in  so  many 
jnoa,  his  native  city.  The 
a  of  the  Almighty  over  the  high 
is  attributed  to  Niccald  drcig- 
Tbe  four  frescoes  by  the  side, 
re  of  the  Life  of  the  Madonna, 
B)>y  Ga^ardi.     The  Crucifixion  ia 

le  Charth  of  He  Conimnt  of  Sla. 
Vfrdlia  is  a  glorious  altarpiece  by 
'Lvca  Sisnorelli,  representing  the  Vir- 
gin in  the  heavens  in  the  midst  of 
saints,  with  Sl  Cecilia  and  others  in 
the  foreground.  It  was  ordered  to  be 
removed  to  Paris  at  the  French  inva. 
sion,  but  it  fortunately  got  no  further 
than  Perngia,  and  was  restored.    The 

the  place  of  the  grand  painting  of  the 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  Fietro 
della  Fraucesca,  now  in  the  gallery  of 
a,F.  Alanemi 
2ge  ai«rcA  of  S.  Domenieo  is  a  fine 
Goibie   ediSce   of  considerable   liie, 


with  a  wooden  roof.  On  entering  the 
church,  the  SrsI  altar  on  the  right  has 
■  fine  picture  of  the  Sposahiio  of  S. 
Catherine,  by  SaiUi  di  Tito.  The 
Marebesani  chapel  has  a  good  Natl< 
vity.  The  next,  richly  ornamented, 
has  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  and  Child, 

nolo  picture  painted  by  Grrgorio  Fogani 
for  Antonio  Corvini  of  this  city,  who 
was  one  of  the  generals  of  the  Duke  of 
Burgundy.  It  is  related,  that,  during 
the  siege  of  some  town,  he  was  engaged 
in  slonning  a  gste  o>er  which  was 
placed  an  image  of  the  Madonna,  and 
that,  being  seiied  with  remorse,  he 
made  amends  (br  the  outrage  by  de- 
dicating this  chapel  to  her  honour- 
Over  it  ia  a  ftesco,  representing  the 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  ^ntoBta 
GrcignoKi  (?).  The  altar  of  the 
Madonna  del  Rosario  was  painted  in 
fresco  by  Crittofvra  Gitrardi  (Do- 
ceno).  The  Gavari  chnpel  contaiDGd 
the  celebrated  Crueifiiion  by  Oa- 
pbael,  which  passed  from  that  ta> 
mily  into  Cardinal  Peseh's  gallery. 
The  chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramrnto  h«t 
a  picture  by  Sgaainna.  Tlie  high 
altar  is  imposing  ;  it  contains  the  body 
of  B.  Margherita,  who  flourished  as  a 
Dominican  nun  in  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury. On  the  other  side  of  the  church 
the  Broizi  chapel  has  a  picture  by 
Luca  Sigaarelli,  in  his  first  manner, 
representing  S.  Sebastian  in  the  midst 
of  the  archers,  noticed  by  Vasari.  The 
Lihelliohapel  hasan  Annunciation  by 
UttffaeHnadaRtffffiotmuchinjareri.Tha 
fresca  near  Hie  last  altar  on  this  side, 
representing  the  Madonna  and  Saints, 
is  a  work  of  the  Gfteenth  century,  but 
the  author  is  unknown.  In  the  chcdr 
are  a  large  Madonna,  a  remarkable 
work  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and 
B  line  picture  of  the  AnnuDoiatioo, 
by  the  native  painter  Fraaceieo  da 
CaOdlo,  dated  1524,  which  Lanii  eon- 
aiders  his  be^  work.  The  Golhie 
Cloialera,  though  not  in  the  best  taste, 
ate  worthy  of  a  visit;  the  capital  of 
one  of  the  calumns  boars  dute  1630. 
The  paintings  in  Ihe  luiwttas  are  prin- 
cipally bj    Sdtri   CaiWltuit'i  ^"■'S^  t^ 


Piftal  SieUetJ]  r,  18.-^citta  di  castello. — Churches.       153 


FieCio  da   Cortona;    a  few  are  by 
Sgmaztimo, 

7%e  Church  of  S»  Egidio  contiuns  an 
altarpiece  representing  the  Nativity, 
attributed  to  Nieeold  Circignani ;  and 
a  Madonna  and  Child,  with  the  titular 
nint  and  &  Peter,  by  an  unknown 
punter  of  the  Florentine  school; 
the  inscription  records  that  it  was  a 
commission  of  Bartolommeo  Corvini 
in  1576. 

The  Church  of  S.  Giovanni  Decal" 
laUi  is  also  called  cfe*  Giuatiziati,  be- 
cause the  confraternita  to  which  it  be- 
kmged  had  the  charge  of  condemned 
criminals  while  Citti  di  Castello  had 
the  power  of  inflicting  tmpital  punish- 
menL  It  contains  an  altarpiece  re- 
presenting the  Baptism  of  Christ,  by 
Rtmaldo  Rinaldi,  dated  1606.  In  the 
aacristy  is  a  remarkable  standard, 
finely  painted  on  both  sides,  one  re- 
presenting the  Baptism  of  the  Saviour, 
the  other  St  John  Baptist,  attributed 
to  Pinturicchio.  The  lunettes  of  this 
church  are  painted  by  VirgUio  Dueci, 

The  Church  of  S,  Giovanni  Battieta 
has  ui  an  adjoining  oratory,  a  Nati- 
vity with  a  glory  of  angels  above  and 
a  party  of  shepherds  in  the  lower 
part,  which  bears  sufficient  evidence 
of  being  the  work  ofLuca  deila  Rdbhia, 
The  expression  of  the  shepherds  is 
remarkably  fine,  and  altogether  the 
work  is  a  good  example  of  the  master. 

The  Church  of  Sta.  Maria  Maggiore 
M  worthy  of  notice  as  a  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture  of  the  fifteenth 
century.  It  was  begun  by  Niccolo 
Vitelli,  after  he  had  captured  the  city 
and  destroyed  the  citadel  of  Sta. 
Maria,  erected  by  Sixtus  IV.,  and 
was  finislicd  early  in  the  sixteenth 
Ci'ntury. 

TIte  Church  ofS.  Michde  Archangelo 
has  an  altarpiece  by  Rnffaele  del  CoUe, 
representing  the  Madonna  and  Child 
on  a  throne  between  St.  Sel>astian  and 
St.  Michael,  who  is  trampling  upon 
Satan. 

The  Church  of  S.  Pietro  contains  a 

painting    by     Gio.    Ventura  BorghcMi, 

npreaenting  the  Virgin  and  Child  and 

&  J-jJippo  Nerl    The  altsrpiece,  Christ 


appearing  to  Peter,  is  by  Cav.  Fraum 
ceeco  Maneini,  of  S.  Angelo  in  Vado. 

The  Church  of  S.  Sebastian  is  re- 
markable for  the  four  lunettes  of  the 
tribune,  representing  different  events 
in  the  life  of  the  saint,  by  Sguazzino, 
and  for  the  lunette  over  the  arch  of  the 
chapel  of  S.  Francesco  di  Paola  by 
Virgiiio  Ducci,  representing  the  nativity 
of  the  saint.  The  lunettes  of  the  Bu- 
rial of  S.  Sebastian  are  by  Bernardino 
Dint,  and  that  of  his  glorification  by 
Gio,  Ventura  Borgheeu 

The  Church  of  the  Servites  contains 
thegrand  painting  of  the  Deposition  by 
RaffadedelCoScThe  gradino  represents 
the  Resurrection,  the  Saviour  releasing 
the  Patriarchs  from  Limbo,  and  his  ap- 
pearing to  the  Magdalen.  One  of  the 
pedestals  of  the  columns  of  the  altar 
represents  in  miniature  the  Supper  at 
Emmaus,  the  other  the  Saviour  ap- 
pearing to  the  Virgin.  Opposite  is  the 
Annunciation,  the  finest  work  ofRaf- 
faele  delCoUe  in  the  city.  On  the  right 
of  the  high  altar  is  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple  by  the  same  great  master, 
which  had  been  carried  to  Rome,  but 
restored  through  the  influence  of  Car- 
dinal Galeffi,  after  it  had  undergone 
some  restorations  by  Camuccini. 

TheConfratemitei  of  the  SS.  Trinitct 
contains  two  Standards  by  Raphael, 
classed  among  his  earliest  works,  and 
the  only  ones  remaining  in  the  public 
edifices  of  a  city  in  which  he  produced 
so  many  of  his  grandest  compositions. 
In  the  first  of  these  is  represented  the 
Crucifixion,  with  the  Almighty  and  the 
Holy  Spirit  in  the  act  of  sustaining  the 
Cross,  and  S.  Sebastian  and  S.  Roch 
kneeling  by  its  side.  In  the  other 
is  represented  the  Creation  of  Eve. 
The  style  and  expression  of  these 
pictures  are  still  admirable,  although 
they  have  suffered  much  from  neglect, 
and  perhaps  still  more  from  recent 
attempts  to  restore  them,  and  give 
an  artificial  brightness  by  means  of 
varnish. 

The  Church  of  the  Convent  of  Tufti 
Santi  contains  sorcve  vcAWwwX.  >^\t- 
turcs.     Amoiif^  tWm  ai^  wi  wwi\«tyX. 
picture  geucTa%  aUxWiXiXQ^  V»  PV«».to 

A   5 


15+         iMMJtelS.— ciTTA-nrOASTELto. — PahMt.-^'fSetffS. 


Mndan 


Me. 


I    beliir 


f  the 


and  8.  Mielialu  of  Tulen- 

n  the  upper  p»rt  i*  the  Aniiun- 

Over  the  high  nltar.  which 

U  built  by  the  Ahb«s  Beatrice  Vi- 

1581,  Is  the  Corunatiun  ut  the 

■irgin,  vith   St.    Peter  and   St.  Au- 

Ruppotied  to  lie  by  the 
ignanl.  The  Siu.  Ursula 
[ten  repr«entin(;  the  his- 
7  of  St.  Augustin  are  by  8gwHii«0. 
1  Hotpital  oocupies  the  site  ol 
e  founded  in  1257  by  llie  Vitelli 
Bii1y>  snd  •>  the  represwitative  ol 
■  ■  nilar  charities  funnerly 


m  the  eity.     It  is 


.ulld- 


n  to  its  length.      It,  ele- 

t  ehapel  oantaina  the  remarkable 

inting  of  the  Descent  of  the  Huly 

■  it  by  Santidi  Tito,  which  formerly 

□ed  the  shurch  culled  La  Carita ; 

haps  the  finest  of  hii  works  in 

Irint  of  colouring!  Br;d  Lanii  has  be- 


highesi 


ET?  CWunoZff  w; 


ind  Child  by  Ckudli.  The 
oiljoioing  CumpmOc,  called  Torn  tM 
fcKOKt,  ii  a  work  of  the  thirteenth 
century,  the  only  one  now  left  of  the 
many   which   the  city   tbrmerly  pos. 

paiuted  wiih  a  grand  fresco,  by  Luea 
Signor^li,  representing  the  Madonna 
with  St.  Jtrome  and  St.  Paul,  but  it 
i>  sadly  injured. 

The  Palazzo  Apoiloliea,  the  resi- 
dence ofihe  governor,  begun,  it  is  said, 
early  in  the  fourteenth  century  by  the 
lords  of  Pietromala,  was  conaideralily 
altered  in  later  periods.  The  portico 
id  Loggie  del  Grano  were  added  in 


present  Ci9ade  was 
larbioni. 

Tbe  yileni  Pabo 


massive  building, 
^nitructed  vitb  large  blocks  of  slone, 
usted  the  earthquakes 
|>  which  so  many  of  the  churches 
We  miftered.  It  is  in  the  Gothic 
yle,  with  pointed  windows  and  doors, 
lie  vault  of  its  massive  gale-way  is 
nid  to  have  been  pointed  by  .Luea 
SigiuirtlU,     The  Krand  saloon  conuins 


cbiefly  local. 


Then 

presenting  many  native  worthies  s 
others  who  have  been  oScially  ci 


nof 


I 


arnwr//  (^le  Palaizo  Comunale, 
■o  the  sale  of  that  building  in 
'n>c  altar  of  its  private  cbapel 


uilt   by    Niocolfl 

.•  —  Citta  di  Cas- 

formerlv  belonging  to  this  illustrious 
family.'  i.  Tbe  Palazzo  FUdli  a  S. 
Giacoma,  now  the  property  of  &e 
Mareliese  del  Monte,  representative  of 
tbe  tamlly,  was  bnilt  by  Angela  da' 
Reisi,  mother  of  Alessandro  Vitelli, 
the  contemporary  of  Cosmo  de' Medici. 
It  formerly  en niaineil  a  good  collection 
of  pictures,  but  they  are  now  dispersed, 
and  there  is  tittle  to  attract  attention. 
S.  Near  thegateuf  S.  Egidioisthe 
Palaizo  di  jpaolo  Vildli,  so  called  from 
the  celebtBted  arcbllect  of  that  DOtae, 
by  whom  it  was  designed  and  built 
about  1J40,  It  forms  a  quadrnngleof 
Urge  proportions,  tbe  northern  fVcnt 
looking  out  upon  the  extensive  gardens 
which  once  constituted  the  pride  and 
ornament  of  the  city.  The  style  and 
execution  of  this  palace  are  equally 
magnificent,  and  the  gi^and  staircaie  is 

,  worthy  ofaroysl  palace;  indeed,  there 
is  mueb  truth  in  the  eipressive  obser- 
vation of  Cav.  Andreocci,  the  amiable 
historian  of  the  city,  who  says  that 
the  saloon  only  wants  a  Swiss  guard 
to  make  it  tbe  apartment  of  a  mo- 
narch. ThestaircaseandiUlofty  vault 
were  painbid  by  Crislofbro  Gbeiardi 
{^DociKo);  the  upper  part  represents 
various  m^thcADfjujaV  ^uh^ects,  and  the 

j  olhei  pottiotiB  Me  emeTsi  wO.\i  ^m- 


Pi^fal  Statu.']  R.  18. — cittadi  castello. — Palaces, 


155 


tnqae  figures,  quadrupeds,  fish,  birds, 
&C.,  thromi  together  by  the  most  ex- 
tmvi^ant  and  capricious  fancy,  the 
whole  of  which,  as  Lanii  observes,  are 
by  his  own  hand.  The  saloon  was 
decorated  by  Prwtpero  Fontana  with 
the  most  brilliant  achievements  of  the 
&mily ;  it  has  been  barbarously  divided 
ijito  small  chambers,  to  the  serious 
ipjury  of  the  paintings ;  indeed  many 
of  them  are  entirely  ruined  by  neg- 
lect. They  represent  the  history  of 
several  great  events,  in  which  the  Vi- 
telli  bore  a  part ;  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  Pius  V.  creating  Car- 
dinal Vitellozzo  Vitelli  his  chamber- 
lain ;  the  death  of  Giovanni  Vitelli 
at  the  siege  of  Osimo ;  the  recon- 
ciliation of  Niccold  with  Sixtus  IV. 
after  the  conquest  of  Cittel  di  Cas- 
tello ;  the  sons  of  Niccolo  driving  out 
the  enemies  of  the  city ;  Alcssandro 
carrying  back  to  Florence  Strozzi, 
Cavalcanti,  and  other  rebels  against 
the  authority  of  Cosmo  de'  Medici ; 
Niccolo  in  fill  council,  declared  "  Fa- 
ther of  his  Country  ;"  Charles  VIII. 
of  France,  knighting  Camillo  in  the 
presence  of  the  army ;  the  same  sove- 
reign creating  him  Duke  of  Gravina. 
The  other  walls  record  the  bravery  of 
Paolo,  wlio  drives  the  Venetian  army 
from  Casentino;  the  capture  of  Guid' 
Ubaldo,  duke  of  Urbino,  by  Vitel- 
lozzo; the  league  of  the  Orsini,  Vitelli, 
&c.,  against  Caesar  Borgia;  the  capture 
of  Mirandola  by  Giovanni  Vitelli, 
under  Julius  II.  ;  the  gallant  resist- 
ance offered  by  Vitello  Vitelli  to  the 
passage  of  the  Adda  by  the  French ; 
and  several  exploits  of  Alessandro 
durin<;  his  alliance  with  Cosmo  de' 
Medici.  These  frescoes  are  stated,  on 
the  authority  of  Malvasia,  to  have 
been  painted  by  Prospero  Fontana  in 
a  few  weeks,  and  Lanzi  says  that  they 
l»ear  evidence  of  the  fact.  In  that 
part  of  the  palace  called  "  del  IVIar- 
chese  Cliiappino,"  from  the  fHmous 
general  who  added  to  the  celebrity  of 
the  name  in  Flanders,  arc  two  painted  , 
chamlicrs  representing  various  my  tho- 
higicn)  Bubject%  besides  other  events 
ia  the  bistorjr  of  the  family ;  part  of  j 


these  are  supposed  to  be  the  work  of 
Prospero  Fontana,  and  part  of  Doceno, 
Another  large  saloon  has  a  roof  painted 
by  Doceno  with  mythological  subjects 
remarkable  for  their  colouring  and 
execution.  Another  chamber  is  painted 
with  events  of  the  Old  and  New  Tes- 
taments. Another  has  a  rich  roof  of 
gold  and  bas-reliefs  and  grotesque 
figures,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  the 
Banquet  of  the  Gods,  supposed  to  be  by 
Prospero  Fontana,  The  other  portions 
of  the  palace  are  equally  rich,  but  do 
not  require  minute  description.  T/te 
Gardens  are  now  but  a  poor  apology 
for  their  former  magnificence,  natural 
as  well  as  artificial ;  the  plane-trees, 
said  to  have  been  three  centuries  old, 
have  been  cut  down,  the  fountains  no 
longer  play,  and  even  the  pipes  which 
supplied  them,  although  laid  down  at 
an  immense  cost,  have  been  recently 
cut  off.  The  Loggia  at  the  extremity 
of  the  gardens  is  a  fine  example  of 
the  powers  of  Doceno  as  a  fresco 
painter ;  its  walls  are  decorated  with 
caryatides,  animals,  birds,  fruits,  and 
flowers,  with  a  profusion  almost  unri- 
valled, and  with  a  fertility  of  imagi- 
nation which  never  seems  to  have 
flagged ;  few  subjects  are  repeated, 
and  there  are  said  to  be  no  less  than 
seventy  kinds  of  birds  introduced  in 
the  composition.  Although  painted 
three  centuries  ago,  and  exposed  to 
the  inclemency  of  the  weather  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  the  colours  are 
still  fresh.  Cav.  Mancini  describes  it 
as  entirely  the  work  of  Doceno ;  it  is 
now  deserted  and  falling  into  decay. 

fj.  The  noble  Palazzo  di  Alessandro 
Vitelli,  belonging  to  the  Bufalini,  is 
situated  near  the  church  of  S.  Fortu- 
nato,  and  occupies  the  original  site  of 
the  first  house  of  the  family.  It  was 
built  by  Alessandro  on  the  founda- 
tions of  a  more  ancient  palace  built 
by  Camillo,  Giovanni,  and  Vitellozzo 
Vitelli,  in  1487,  part  of  which  is  yet 
to  be  traced  in  the  immense  stables 
incorporated  in  the  present  building, 
under  the  name  of  VAbhondama^  aud 
in  the  sa\oon  aboNC,  "viVvtVv  s\^\^\scavv 
the  araUc&iyucs  o^  \l^  ^ivs^ivi. 


^^    4     The  Fu/ui^a  Vitc/B  off 
W    nirrn  van  so  caJlcd  tram  (h( 

pf  onnoii  wliich  odjoinei)  it  when 
tlio  eixf  Sourithed  under  the  H've- 
reignty  of  thu  lamily.  I'he  French 
«cUed  aevcnl  Urgn  cannons  cast  here 
viih  the  arms  of  VitElli,  in  the  in- 
Tsslon  oF  IT9B,  and  the  establisbmenl 
was  then  auppresseil.  This  paliue 
witi  tlie  habitnlion  of  Niccolo,  "  the 
father  of  his  country,"  nlreadj  men- 
Tlie  tafsde  waa  adorned 


ROPTB  18.— CITTA  DHJASTEtLO. — JWWW.      ^StCt.  % 

mnM  '  a  fmgmenl  or  the  AKE'nsion,  in  terra- 
indry  cotta.  [brmerly  in  the  church  of  S. 
AgostFnoi  Fieiro  deHa  Franeaea,  the 
Curunstion  of  tbo  Virgin,  nilh  St. 
FtanDis,SL  Uemardin.  and  other  laiDts 
in  the  lower  part ;  six  small  picturei 
representing  Saints.  Lvca  SignoreBi, 
the  Nativity,  one  of  the  ma«terpiecea 
of  Ibli  oreat  attitt ;  the  Madonna 
and  Child,  with  St.  Jerome,  8.  Nic- 
CoIo  di  Bari,  St.  Sebastian,  and  a  fe. 
male  saint;  this  fine  painting  was 
executed  for  the  netghhouriug  village 
of  Monlone.  Rapharl,  a  small  but 
ver;  beautiliit  picture  of  the  Annuu- 
cation,  said  tn  have  been  in  the  gta, 
dino  belonging  to  the  "  CrucIGxion" 
of  Cardinal  Fesch's  gallery.  Saffatlt 
dtt  Colle,  eight  Email  pictures,  repre- 
senting the  Miracles  of  the  Holy  Sa- 
crament ;  two  Other  small  picturen  by 
■  md.   JV.  a    ■ 


s  and  arabesques, 

porcciain  medatlious  by  the 

:hen  of  Luca  Mia  Ifabbia.      The 

wag  pointed  by  Doceno  and 


I   Bufulim   is  said  to 

Ii&ve  been  designed  by  Vignola.  during 

his  mission  to  the  city  from  Gregory 

XIII.  fur  the  seltlemenl  of  the  ooo- 

^Joea  bfltn'eea  Rome  and  Tuscany.  It 

BjM   iiijured    by    the    earthquake    of 

Bb89 ;  great  part  of  it  was  destroyed, 

WttA  liltlB  of  '<^  grandeur  now  remains. 

■S^vloiis  to  that  event.  Cardinal   Bu- 

■faWni,  while  bishop  of  Ancona,  added 

a  gallery  which  contained  the  St.  John 

Baptist  of  Pannlgiano,  and  other  fine 

piottues,    now    dispersed.      Of    those 

which  remain,  tlie  Madonna  and  Child 

of  SiiwiHe  OitUaTini,  the  fine  portrait 

of  Cardinal  Ricei  atlrihuted  to  Titian, 

the    Madonna   and    Child,    with    St. 

John,  supposed  to  be  by  jtnitria  del 

Sarto,  and  a  portrait  by  raxiL/hc,  may 

he  mentioned. 

The  Falaixo  LigtHini,  formerly  he. 
longing  to  the  family  of  Aligliorucci, 

I  earthquake  of  lTS9i  its  inteiior 

s  painted  by   Tomnvuo  Cotua,  and 
^  faai  besides  a  largeeollectionof  pie- 

»  by  the  same  haod. 
',    The  Pabmo  Manciai,  the  house  of 
nahle  Cav.  Man- 

i,  the    indcfatigahle   liistorian  and 

^6ilJawiag  amon^ other  good  works; 
"■  "         erucirii  coiered  with  mi- 
inga.     Zvca  deUa  OetAia, 


■B  "f  ll 


e  Ini 


Giorgio    Fatari,    portrait    of 


o  de'  Medici 


Urge  p] 


Child  wi 
ibale  Caracci,  B  bay  and  cat,  per- 
Cemre  Maggitri  of  Urbina,  a 
B  of  the  Virgin  and  Child. 
WU.U  >duiiu  in  adoration  (8.  Jerome,  S. 
Bernardin  of  Siena,  S.  Antony  oF  Pa- 
dua, anil  S.  Antonio  Abate),  formerly 
in  the  church  of  S.  Agostino.  CAoi. 
Fmntiao  di  Mandni.  of  St.  Angelo 
in  Vado,  the  Flagellation,  the  crown- 
ing with  thorns,  and  the  Saviour  la 
chiaro-scuro.  In  an  upper  room  ji  « 
collection  illustrative  of  the  fosul  geo- 
logy of  the  Apennines,  various  anti- 
quities, and  a  small  cabinet  of  medals. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  Citti  di 
Castello  is  the  t/lonte  di  Belvedere, 
supposed  by  some  to  be  the  site  of 
Tutci,  the  favourite  tiOaofthe  jfounga- 
Ptiny.  Others  hate  concluded,  from 
various  remains,  and  from  traces  of 
Roman  foundations  which  have  been 
disrovered  on  the  spot,  that  Falmolsra 
is  more  probably  the  site  ;  but  all  at« 
agreed  tbat  it  was  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  llfiirnum,  the  aueient  nanu 
of  Citti  di  Castello.  Pliny,  indeed, 
thus  iescrVhes  its  situation  j  "  Oppi- 
dum  est  pTt«&\\&  tuHU'u  t'viuuua,  iko.^ 


Papal  SiaiB»J\  r.  19. — san  giustino  to  b.  ban  sepolcro.  157 


nine  TUbmum.**  He  says  that  it 
was  placed  among  an  amphitheatre 
of  wooded  mountains,  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill  gradually  rising  from  the  plain, 
whose  fertile  meadows  were  watered 
by  the  Tiber;  the  lower  hills  were 
clothed  with  vines  and  shrubs,  and 
the  breeies  from  the  upper  Apen- 
nines purified  the  air  and  rendered  it 
salubrious.  He  preferred  it  to  his 
other  villas,  and  has  left  a  minute  de- 
scription of  it  in  his  beautiful  letter 
to  ApoUinaris  (lib.  ▼.,  £p.  6.).  Citt4 
di  Castello  was  made  a  bishopric  a.  d. 
SOO,  but  the  see  was  divided  by  Leo 
X.,  in  1520,  in  order  to  create  the 
neighbouring  diocese  of  Borgo  S. 
Sc*^lcro.  The  fair,  once  the  resort 
of  rich  merchants  from  all  parts  of 
Italy,  has  now  declined  to  a  second- 
rate  gathering  of  the  provincial  traders ; 
it  begins  on  the  SSrd  and  lasts  to  the 
3 1st  August. 


ROUTE  19. 

8AX  GIDSTIKO  TO  BORGO  SAN  SEPOLCRO 
▲ND  ARVZZO. 

Miles. 
San  Giustino  to  Cospiy'a  (frontier)  3 
Cospaja  to  Borgo  San  Sepolcro  -  I 
Borgo  San  Sepolcro  to  Arezzo     -  24 

28 

/nm«,   Borgo   San   Sepolcro,  Aquila 
Nera. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned  in 
the  previous  route  that,  on  descending 
the  Apennines  from  Urbino  to  Cittl 
di  Castello  a  road  branches  off  at  San 
Giustino  to  Borgo  San  Sepolcro,  and, 
proceeding  thence  into  Tuscany,  fells 
into  the  great  iK>st-road  between  Rome 
and  Florence  at  Arezzo.  lliis  ena- 
bles travellers  desirous  of  reaching 
Florence  from  the  shores  of  the  Adria- 
tic  to  visit  many  interesting  towns  in 
their  «  avi  and  indeed  opens  a  tract  of 
country  hitherto  but  little  known  to 
English  tourists,  llicre  is  a  shorter 
road  from  Cittu  di  Castello  to  Arezzo, 
of  24  miJes^  hut  by  a  bad  ferry  of  the 
Tiber. 


The  papal  frontier  is  passed  at  the 
village  of  Cospaja  (three  miles),  and 
we  enter  Tuscany  at  the  town  of 

1    m.     BoTffo     San    Sepolcro   (Imtf 
Aquila  Nera  del  Fiorentino,  very  tole- 
rable).  Borgo  was  formerly  a  fortified 
town,  but  nearly  all  its   towers  were 
destroyed  by  the  earthquake  by  which 
Citt4  di  Castello  so  severely  suffered. 
Borgo   3an  Sepolcro  may  be  called  a 
city  of  painters,  for  no  provincial  town 
in  Italy  has  produced  so  many ;  and 
a  long  list  of  eminent  names  might  be 
added  to  show  that  in  literature  and 
science  it  is  scarcely  less  distinguished 
than   its    more  opulent    neighbours. 
The  names  of  Pietro  della  Francesca, 
Raflaeledel  CoUe,  Santi  di  Tito,  Cris- 
toforo  Gherardi,  and  numerous  others 
of  more  or  less  note,  are  sufficient  to 
justify  the  partiality  of  local  historians, 
who  have  called  it  a  school  of  art : 
indeed  Lanzi  has  remarked  that  Pietro 
della  Francesca  himself  is  one  of  those 
painters  who  form  an  era  in  art.  This 
remarkable  man,  whom  Mr.  Eastlake 
(  Quart.  Rev,  cxxxL)  has  described  as 
**  one  of  the  most  accomplished  painters 
of  his  time,**  was  born  about  1 398.    He 
was  one  of  the  first  masters  who  suc- 
cessfully treated  the  effects  of  light, 
and  made  his  designs  subservient  to 
!  principles    of    perspective.     ♦♦  Pietro 
was  the  guest  of  Giovanni   Santi  in 
Urbino  in  1469.    His  portraits  of  the 
duke  (then  Count  Federigo)  and  his 
consort  Battista  Sforza,  forming  a  dyp- 
tich,  are  now  in  the  gallery  at  ^orence. 
A  single  specimen  only  of  his  talents 
remains  at  Urbino ;  but  in  his  native 
city,  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro,  many  of  his 
works  are  still  extant.    *   *   •  Lastly, 
,  this  master  was  skilled  above  all  his 
contemporaries  in  perspective  and  geo- 
metry, and  Vasari  goes  so  &r  as  to  say, 
*  the  most  important  information  that 
exists  on  such  subjects  is  derived  from 
;  him.*  His  MSS.  were  deposited  in  tlie 
ducal  library  at  Urbino,  and  some  of 
them  are  now  in  the  possession  of  the 
Marini  family  at  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro. 
Tlie  most  distinguished  coi\t<ivcv^<^T«x>j 
painters  of  ^oma^a  ttad^,  \^yc\)t\^  vc^ 
said  to  have  studYsiduxAex  Vv^Xx^^^^^^ 


n.  19.-.:— eoRoo  saw  sKPot-cno. — Ottuvha.    fSecd 


FranceKi.  Amnng  Ihew,  Melonodn 
Forli  and  LucaSigiiorolU  confirm  *ueh 
H  Iredition  bj  tbeir  works  more  than 
Pietto    Penlgino." —  Quarttrls    Bc- 


Borgo  San  Sepolcrovas  roiinerly  n 

'  of  Umbria  RiibJL'cl  la  (he  Holy 

but  in  1440  Eugenius  IV.  trans- 

Florenlines.      It  was 

Llial  rank  by  Leo  X. 

J3I3. 

7%aCiaAeilral  is  a  line  building  with 


I Bor 


vaunt  Jlherti.  [1w  painler  of  tbe  Sala 
Ckincntina  m  the  Vutitnn,  and  the 
brother  of  Cberubino  already  men- 
tioned. Over  the  door  of  iAe  lacrinlji 
U  a  grand  painting  rcprcaentitig  tbe 
Almighty  BU|iporled  by  angels,  by 
Saffiidt  dd  Calk.  Tlie  sacristy  con- 
tains a  very  fine  Baptism  of  the  Sa- 
viour, by  P^tro  ddia  Francaca,  with 

in  the  life  of  St  John  Baptist.       The 


ibi1es.and'>s 


e  Abbot  Kuderigo  Boniuo, 
in  lOlS.  It  vas  made  a  cathedrnl  | 
vhen  BorgD  obtained  the  rank  of  a 
city.  On  catering  the  building  by  the  | 
principal  door,  the  Graziani  chapel, ' 
the  Gr>[  on  the  right  hand,  contains  a  j 
line  work  painted  for  the  family  by 
Paloka  Oioeaiu  (IGOif):  it  represents, 
the  Assumption,  with  the  twelve 
apostles  in  tbe  foreground,  and  is  re-  | 
tnsrkable  for  its  rich  colouring  no  less 
than  for  in  general  effwt.  The  Yen- 
tura  chapel  (the  4th)  biu  a  painting 
by  Santi  di  Tita,  reprpseniing  the  in-  | 
redulity  of  St.  Tbotnos.     Tbe  chapel 

IMdern  work,  the  Anime  purganle, 
f  CkiaUi.  In  the  CItoir  i>  the  Resur- 
n  by  Raffiati  del  CoHe,  the  Cru- 
m  hj  Chialli,  and  a  repetition  by  ' 
o  Pnvgino  of  his  great  piclurc  of 
e  Ascension,  now  in  the  Cburoh  of 
1.  Peter  at  Perugia.  It  is  recorded 
^^JF  Cm.  Maneini  that  this  copy  was 
p^^untedat  Florence,  and  brought  bitber 
on  men's  shoulders  "con  spesa  gravis- 
sma."  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  | 
church  ii  the  Madonna  del  Rourio 
sustained  by  angels,  by  Aslanio  Caaal- 
lucd.  NearitistheHolyTrinitywith 
St.  Andrew,  Sta.Cristin:!,  and  the  Mag- 
dalen, by  CAiruiina  Albtrli,  a  native 
painter,  known  also  as  an  engraver  of 
the  worksof  Michael  Angelo.  Lower 
down,  the  Piebi  chapel  has  a  Nativity 
by  nnotlier  native  artist,  DvranU  Al- 
barti.  The  Lstitli  chapet  contains  a ' 
piclurc  of  the  Annuntnation  by  Gio- 
vanni ifc'  Feccii,  also  a  native  painter, ' 
fliw/yju/jiVof  Jfflfiaele  del  Colle,  The 
last  cbapel  has  a  Crucifixion  by  Gio- 


! '  by  C« 


la  dtt  Pisit^a,  pupil  of  Pintu- 


with  ii 


rich  Gotb 
s  fori 


■rkable  I 


paintings  by  Gi 
Francis  receiving  the  Btigniata,  by  Gio- 
EKumi  rfe'  Fachi,  and  Christ  disputing 
with  the  doctors,  a  fine  work  of  Ai- 
MMiVo  Passignano  (Cresti).  The  sa- 
cristy conlaiiis  a  picture  of  8L  An- 
drew and  St.  Nicholas  by  Di^tite 
Jibuti. 

Tbe  Church  of  the  Madonna  iJeRs 
Gnaie  bae  a  fine  painting  of  the  Ma- 
donna by  Haffatle  del  CoBe,  which  ean 
only  be  seen  by  permission  of  tlie 
bishop,  and  a  picture  of  S.  Rocco  Bud. 
8.  Sebastian  by  G!o.  BaUitla  Cmgu 

Z7.(  ChHTch  of  Ike  Orient  contahn 

ised  by  its  rich  colouring  and  compo- 
sition, representing  the  Deposition 
from  tbe  Cross,  which  Vasari  mentions 


tribuied  to  Raffaels  Scai 


The  Chnnli  of  the  Sfnife!  eiHituna 
a  Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  Luke 
and  St.  Francis  d'Asaisi,  by  N.  Cinis- 
nani;  a  finely-composed  Freoentation 
in  the  Temple  by  Gwta«»i  de'  Feecki; 
an  Annunciation,  variously  atlrlbu ted 
to  Matteo  Roselli,  Circignani,  and 
DomenicD  Fassignaoo ;  and  B  line 
Assumption  by  an  unknown  Sienese 
master  of  the  15th  century. 

The  Chureti  of  S.  Chiam  has  at  the 
high  altar  an  AMumption  of  the  Vir^ 
gin,  with  St.  Francis,  Sta.  Clara,  and 
two  ot\tet  Kuntx,\)j  Pietm  dtBa  Fi-an- 


I^h^mmI  States.']  r.  19. — boroo  san  sepolcro. — Churches.     159 


■rclutecture  of  the  church ;  the  small 
pictures  of  the  gradino  are  placed 
too  high  over  the  door  of  entrance.  ^ 
On  the  walls  of  the  family  chapel  is 
a  St.  Andrew,  painted  in  fresco  by 
Chentbino  Alherti,  in  1621. 

The  Churdi  of  the  PP.  Minori  Os- 
MTvanti  lias  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
full  of  expression  and  colouring,  by  ' 
Bagaano   (Leandro   da    Fonte);    the 
Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  by  GiooannV 
</«'  Veediij  a  Crucifixion  by  Ptissigna-  , 
no ;  and  in  the  choir  a  fine  Assump- 
tion by  Rdjffuele  del  Cotte, 

The  Church  of  S.  Rocco  has  a  paint- 
ing  of  the  Resurrection  by  Raffade 
ddCoOe. 

The  Church  of  Sia,  Maria  della  Mise- 
n'cordta,  now  the  chapel  of  the  hospital, 
erected  as  a  memorial  of  the  plague  in 
1348,  contains  a  picture  of  the  Virgin 
surrounded  by  figures,  by  Pietro  della 
Fran^eat,  with  a  beauti^l  gradino. 

The  ancient  Church  of  S,  Antonio 
Abate,  built  in  1345,  has  a  remarkable 
Standard  punted  on  both  sides  by  Luca 
Signordli :  on  one  is  the  Crucifixion 
with  the  Virgin  at  the  foot  of  the  Cross, 
beautiful  and  touching  in  its  effect, 
with  a  fine  landscape  and  every  figure 
full  of  expression ;  on  the  other  is  S. 
Antonio  Abate  and  S.  Eligio.  This 
is  one  of  the  finest  works  in  the  city, 
and  is  in  excellent  condition. 

Tiie  Church  of  C.  Agostino  contains 
the  Nativity  of  the  Saviour,  by  the 
school  of  Caracci ;  a  picture  of  the 
Uaptism  of  the  Saviour,  by  Gio,  Bat- 
iista  Cujigi  (?) ;  and  another  represent- 
ing the  Virgin  subduing  Satan,  by 
Gerino  da  IHstofa,  bearing  his  name, 
and  the  date  1502. 

llie  Church  of  the  Convent  of  S.  LeOy 
outside  the  gate  of  CastcUo,  formerly 
belonging  to  the  nuns  of  S.  Cliiara, 
contams  a  fresco  of  the  saint  attributed 
by  some  to  Cherubino  Albert!,  and  by 
others  to  Raffaele  delColle  or  his  school. 

I1ic  Monte  di  Pietd  contains  the 
fn-sco  of  the  Resurrection,  by  Pietro 
de/fa  FranccMca,  which  Vasari  describes 
OS  the  best  of  all  his  works. 

A  verjr  interesting  but  hilly  road 
JeaJs  from  Borgo    San    Sepolcro  to 


Areszo,  a  distance  of  twenty-four 
miles.  It  crosses  the  Tiber  soon 
after  leaving  Borgo,  and  passes  the 
Sovara  near  the  frontier  custom-house 
of  Pontaneta,  ascending  thence  the 
banks  of  the  Cerfone  as  far  as  S  Don- 
nino,  where  the  road  soon  begins  to 
descend  to  Arezzo.  A  short  distance 
east  of  Pontaneta  is  the  village  of 
Citema,  which  contains  in  the  church 
of  S.  Francesco  some  remarkable  pic- 
tures worthy  of  a  visit  The  first  of 
these  is  by  Rajffhele  del  CoUe,  represent- 
ing the  Saviour  surrounded  by  angels, 
with  St.  Francis  and  the  archangel 
Michael  in  the  lower  portion.  An- 
other, by  N.  Circignani,  represents  the 
Crucifixion.  Tlie  same  subject  in 
fresco,  with  the  Madonna  and  St.  John, 
in  an  adjoining  chapel,  has  been  attri- 
buted to  Raphael,  but  it  is  more  ge- 
nerally referred  to  the  School  of  Peru- 
gino.  A  St.  Francis  and  St.  Jerome 
have  also  been  attributed  to  Raphael, 
but  there  is  good  reasou  for  regard- 
ing them  as  the  work  of  Raffade  del 
Colle.  In  the  choir  is  another  disputed 
picture,  generally  believed  to  be  by 
Perugino,  but  by  others  considered  to 
be  by  Innocenzio  da  Jmola,  A  Ma- 
donna and  Child  with  St.  John,  in 
the  sacristy,  has  a  modern  inscription 
over  it,  affirming  it  to  be  the  produc- 
tion of  Raphael,  but  authorities  seem 
wanting  in  support  of  this  assertion. 

Between  the  Sovara  and  the  Tiber, 
4  miles  west  of  Borgo,  is  another  in- 
teresting town,  Anghiari,  celebrated 
for  the  great  battle  fought  there  June 
29.  1440,  between  Piccinino,  the  Mi- 
lanese general,  and  the  Florentine  army 
under  Giovanni  Paolo  Orsini.  Picci- 
nino previous  to  the  battle  occupied 
Borgo  S  Sepolcro,  and  so  unprepared 
were  the  Florentines  for  an  attack,  that 
Michelotto  Attcndolo  had  barely  time 
to  occupy  the  bridge  over  the  Tiber 
before  the  Milanese  arrived.  For  two 
hours  this  bridge  was  the  scene  of  a 
desperate  struggle  between  the  com- 
batants ;  it  was  several  times  forced  by 
the  Milanese,  wV\o  otv  ow«  q^^^svotcv 
made  their  wa^  to  \)^^  "wt^X^  ol  K'cv^v- 
ari ;  but  tViey  were  a|^««i  wA^^jpA^'t^ 


BOITTE  20. — CITTA  DI  CABTKLLO  TO  OOBBIO,      f;9ect.'l 


lacd,  until  al  Icnglli  tliB  Florentines  |  hold,  and  from  [ts  attachment  to  the 
•Ucceedcd  in  poking  the  hriiige  anil  church  it  acquired  the  titles  uf  "  No- 
mmking  good  their  ground  on  the  other  biliii,"  "  Inugnis,"  and  "  Fidelissima," 
aide  of  the  ti»er.  By  thij  manccuvre  ^  from  suocessiie  pontiffa.  During  the 
thq' diTJded  the  two  vings  of  Pioci-  itrugglei  betneen  the  republicans  c' 
nino'i  ariny,  and  Ihreir  tlie  vhole  into  ,  Perugia  and  the  popes,  Fratla  was  frc 
oonfiiiion.  Ficoinino  himself  was  com.  i  quently  the  leenc  of  contegls  betwee 
pdled  to  retire  on  liorgo  San  Sepolero,  their  hostile  armies;  and  the  Peru- 
and  half  hia  army  fiJl  into  the  handi  pans  were  oil  several  occaaion*  in  the 
of  the  Plorentinet.  llie  pillage  is  said  I  Tourtccnth  century  ii 
lu  liave  been  immense,  no  leas  than  400  Cerman  mercenaries  beneath  the  walls 
offieersandaoOOhorsesbeingcapturcd  oftheti 
by  the  conquerors.  At  Anghiari,  Ihcte  their  defeat  In  1406  by  Braccio  Forte- 
ia  B  large  picture  of  the  Last  Supper  brsccio,  and  was  at  length  reduced  to 
by  Pttiro  dtBa  Frantaca.  obedience  a;  a  dependency  of  Perugia. 

Almost  due  north  of  Anghiari  u  It  was  ronnerly  famous  for  its  iron- 
OiprtH,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of ,  works  and  its  earthenware.  In  the 
the  Singcriia,  ■  little  town  which  has  church  of  Sta.  Croce  is  a  fine  Depoai- 
tKCOinememorableas  the  birth-place  of  lion  from  the  Cross,  by  Z.i£CD5ijiRnnfK; 
Uichaal  Angelo,  who  was  horn  herein  and  Signer  Domenico  Maiarelli's  Cok 
1474.  Between  Anghiari  obA  Arezio  \  Icclion  of  Majolica  plates  is  worthy  of 
;her    road   passes  at   the  base   of  nohce. 

ite  Acuto,  a  retaarkable  conical  I  A  bridle,  rami  from  hence  branches 
Ewroed  of  serpentine,  a  very  in-  eastward  by  Civitella  Raoieri  and  Ah- 
geological  tra-  '  badia  di  Csmpo  Reggiano  to  GuUbiOp 
through  S.  Angclo  and  Serraonte, 
The  carriage  way  joins  that  frm 
rugia  about  a  mile  after  the  latl 
■osscd    the  Tiber,        '    '      " 


■  Jim,  Amuioi  deKsibed  in  Route  Si 


ROUTE  20. 


I  longer,  making  tl: 


3ole  diat 


te4S 


.    (/in,    Locanda 

I  Sperniche.  Tery  poor.)    This  intera 

ing  town,  beau^Mly  situated  on  tl 

Monte  Ingino,  occupies  the  site  of  the 

ancient    Umbrlan    cily    of  /juciKm, 

45       whose  possession  was  considered  of  so 

^       much  importance  by  Cssar  in  his  in- 

st  pari  of  this  route  carries  us 'vasion.      The  present  population,  in- 

!  eacellent  road  which  leads  !  eluding  the  dependencies,  amounts  to 

I.  from  CilU  di  Castello  to'  [S.BOOsouls.   The  town,  which  i- well 

It  RjIIows  the  left  bank  of  built,  conuins  about  one-third  of  that 

r  Bs  far  Bi   Monte  Caitelli,  I  number,  it  is  entirely  of  the  middle- 

rosses  the  river,  and  proceeds    age  character,  and  is  remarkable,  like 

right  bank  until  it  recrosses    most  other  towns  in  the  Stales  of  the 

It  Fratta.  j  Church,  for  its  courteous  and  intelH- 

m.  Frotia,  a  small  town,  with  n   gent    society.      The   ancient  cit; 

ition   of  4G00  Muta,   including   tended  further  into  the  plain  previous 

i»  uepEndeneiea.      It  is  supposed  to   to  its  partial  destruction  by  the  Gulhs ; 

occupy    the   site  of  Fitahan,  and  to  ,  in  1155  it  was  besieged  and  threatened 

httye  been  founded  by  the  remnant  of  with   ruin  by   Frederick   BarbarosaB, 

t6e  Jioman  ariajr  a/ler  their  defeat  by    but  It  was  preserved  by  the  interposi- 

Hannihil.    Jn  (Ac  mi'ddleages  it  waaa  '  Uon   ot   iVa  patron  siHi'i  ani  \ii»iAov, 

pahceofsaiaeimponaacewit,s.tio^\%-    S.  UbaWo. 


Pqaol  Statu.']    r.  20. — oobbio. —  Tie  Ducal  Palace. 


161 


The  l^tdeuaeo  dd  CMiitme  is  a  verj 
interesting  relic  of  the  times  of  the 
republic,  as  well  as  an  imposing  orna- 
ment of  the  town.  It  was  built  by 
Matteo  di  Giovenello  of  Gubbio, 
called  Gattapone,  between  1SS2  and 
1340,  at  a  cost  of  16,336  lire  of  Ra- 
yenna.  It  is  now  abandoned,  the 
public  offices  being  in  an  adjoining 
building. 

The  Dueal  Palace  was  built  by  Lu- 
mno  Lauranna,  architect  of  the  palace 
of  Urbino,  and  decorated  in  the  same 
style  as  that  remarkable  edifice. 
Though  containing  fewer  remains  of 
its  ancient  magnificence,  it  is  a  good 
example  of  the  architecture  and  sculp- 
ture of  the  sixteenth  century,  known 
under  the  name  of  einquecento ;  and 
probably  no  idea  of  that  beautiful 
style  can  be  formed  so  well  as  by  a 
careful  study  of  these  two  palaces* 
Among  its  inlaid  ornaments  may  be 
traced  the  insignia  of  the  Order  of  the 
Garter,  conferred  upon  Duke  Guid* 
Ubaldo  by  Henry  VII. 

In  the  Palaces  of  Conte  Ranghiasci 
Branealeoni,  and  of  Conte  Beni  are 
some  good  pictures,  and  the  public 
library  is  unusually  rich  in  materials 
for  local  history. 

The  Cathedral  dedicated  to  St.  Ma- 
rian and  St  James  the  Martyr,  con- 
tains several  good  pictures  well  pre- 
served. The  first  altar  on  the  left  has  a 
Madonna  enthroned  between  S.  Ubal- 
do, and  S.  Sebastian,  on  a  gold  ground, 
by  Sinibaldo  Ibi,  a  rare  master  of  the 
school  of  Perugino.  The  Magdalen 
is  a  fine  specimen  of  Timoteo  Vite,  by 
whom  also  are  the  frescoes  behind  the 
episcopal  chair.  A  presepio  of  the 
school  of  Perugino,  probably  by  Gi- 
annicolo  is  admirably  treated ;  S.  Tho- 
mas is  by  Nucci,  a  pupil  of  Raffaele 
del  Colle.  On  the  right  side  are  two 
clever  pictures  by  Adone  Doni  of  As- 
sist, one  imitating  the  Pieta  of  Michael 
Angelo  in  St.  Peter's,  the  other  Ra- 
phaePs  Spasimo  di  Sicilia,  Behind  the 
sacristy  is  preserved  a  very  remark- 
able piviale  or  priest's  robe,  with 
rmrioua  acenes  of  the  Passion  beauti- 
fulljr  embroidered  on  a  gold  ground. 


The  church  of  S.  Maria  Nuova  has 
the  finest  work  of  Ottaviano  Nello,  one 
of  the  most  intensely  devotional  paint- 
ers of  Umbria,  and  probably  the  mas- 
ter of  Gentile  da  Fabriano.  It  is  a 
fresco  perfectly  preserved  representing 
the  Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  Paul, 
St.  Anthony,  a  choir  of  Angels,  and 
the  donors.  Near  it  is  an  Ecce 
Homo  probably  by  Guido  Palmerucci. 
S.  Agostino  has  in  the  roof  of  the  choir 
very  well  preserved  frescoes  by  Cia- 
como  Bedi,  another  rare  painter  of 
Gubbio,  representing  four  scenes  in 
the  life  of  St.  Augustine,  and  the 
evangelists.  Over  the  gate  of  S.  Agos- 
tino is  a  Madonna  enthroned  by  Mar" 
tino  Ndht  the  father  of  Ottaviano, 
interesting  for  colouring  and  architec- 
tural details.  In  iS*.  Pietro  is  a  visita- 
tion by  Giannicola  with  his  monogram, 
and  some  finely  illuminated  choral 
books  by  Attavante  of  Florence. 
S.  Franceeco  has  an  excellent  copy  of 
Daniele  da  Volterra*s  deposition  from 
the  cross  in  the  Trinita  del  Monte  at 
Rome,  and  a  Coronation  of  the  Ma- 
donna signed  by  Francesco  SignorelK, 
At  S,  Domenico  on  the  left,  is  a  good 
fresco  by  Raffaele  del  CoUe  of  the  Ma- 
donna with  a  choir  of  angels  dated 
1546;  a  picture  by  Tommaso  Nelli, 
brother  of  Ottaviano,  has  been  much 
overpainted ;  a  statue  in  terra  cotta 
of  St.  Anthony  is  the  only  consider- 
able work  of  Maestro  Giorgio  Andreoli, 
the  famous  porcelain  painter,  now 
left  in  his  town.  On  the  right  side 
are  two  good  altarpieces  which  seem 
to  belong  to  the  Ferrarese  school, 
and  the  stalls  of  the  choir  are  orna- 
mented with  arabesques  in  gold  by 
Nucci.  In  the  left  transept  is  a  good 
Circumcision  by  Damiano^  a  native 
artist ;  it  abounds  in  portraits,  like  most 
of  his  works  in  the  other  churches 
in  this  town. 

In  the  church  of  the  Olivetani  arc 
the  Nativity  of  the  Saviour  and  fres- 
coes of  the  history  of  St.  Benedict  by 
Raffaele  dd,  CoUCf  which  Lanzi  notices 
with  praise.  TVve  ftxeft>\>Aoti  «?cA  ^^ 
sign  of  lY\e«e  ^otV^  wt  ^«t>LVJX^^'^'^ 
commended  b^  VXie  wwva  ^>»JC<cvw\V|» 


IF 


rho  proBOunew  the  highist  etilogium  licles  of  trtslles  between  the  Slates  of 
by  compariug  the  figure  of  "  Viclui:"  Umlicia  ;  Bourguel,  Gori,  and  Bai- 
to  ■  sibyl  by  lta]>haeL  ,  delti  thought  that  they  were  fomiB  ol 

IHiere  are  Tartotu  {liotures  also  of  prayer  anoiig  the  Pelasgi  after  tbe 
the  two  Nuai,  bther  and  son,  nut  ileoline  of  Ibeir  power ;  MntTei  and 
brothers,  as  Lanii  supposes,  lo-be  Passeri,  thai  they  were  stutuleB,  m 
found  in  GublHo.  and  some  lreiHHH» '  donations  to  the  temple  of  Jupiterg 
of  its  early  ichoal,  among  which  is  a  while  Lanii  conceiyed  tliM  they  re- 
St  Anthony  by  Palitienieci  under  the  lated  aolely  to  the  sacrificial  rites  of 
areade  of  the  college  of  painters.  tlie  various  townr^ofthe  UmbrUn  con- 

_    An  inscription,  or  lapide,  marks  the  ^  federacy,  —  an  opinion  in  which  most 
erroneously  supposed  to  have   subaeqiienl  antiquaries  have  heen  dit- 
iccupied  by  Dante  during  his  posed  to  concur.    Dr.  Lepsius  of  Ber- 
lee   s(   Guhbio ;    the    intimacy    tin,  itrucic  by  the  assertion  of  Lanii 
lioh  be  here  formed  will)  Oderigi,  'that  the  language  of  the  tables  is  fuU 
iter,    and    the    merits  '  of  archaisms,  and  bears  great  affinity 
I  an  artist,  are  immor-   to  the  Etrutean  dialect,  visited  GubUa 
great  poet,  Par.,  xi.    for  the  purpose  of  eiaraining 

philological  illustrations  of  the  fbmw- 
non  lei  tn  OdfTial,  tloo  of  Latin.      His  work  is  perhapa 

bio,  el'onorriigiiellaarte    the  most  complete  r&umS of  tlie  dii- 
i  chiimiti  in  P.ri.l  f  sertaliona  and  arguments  on  the  tabid 

The  chief  interest  of  Gubbia  is  de-  |  which  has  yet  appeaj-ed 
red  from  tlte  celebrated  EagHhiun  cnreful  comparison  of  these  with  Va 
Tabkt,  which  have  ewited  the  atten-  own  observations,  he  arrives  at  the 
tion  and  curiosity  of  tlic  learned  men  '  conclusion,  now  universally  admitted, 
uf  Europe  during  the  last  four  cen-  that  the  Latin  language,  both  an 
turiei.  They  were  found  in  1444  jthe  people  of  Italy  generally 
among  tbe  ruins  of  the  ancient  the-  ''amoEig  the  Umbti,  was  much  i 
atre  near  this  town.  Coneiuli,  who  'recent  than  the  Ettuscan,  and  that  tbe 
published  his  ADnotatioos  b  167S,  Eti 
sttlas  that  nine  tables  weroditcovered,  the  Umbri.  He  might  also  haTeadded 
that  two  of  Ihcm  were  carried  to  Vc-  that  these  inscriptions  leave littledoubt, 
nice  in  1540  to  be  inlerpieled,  that  that  the  Latin  language  was  mainly 
they  were  preserved  in  the  ducal  pa-  derived  from  the  Umbrian.  The  ta- 
lace  among  the  greatest  rarities,  but  hies  present  moreover  many  pecu- 
were  never  restored  to  Gubhio.  This  Ijarities  to  which  we  would  desire  to 
aecouut,  however,  is  rejected  by  roost '  draw  the  attention  of  the  tourict  Hie 
Other  commentatots,  and  indeed  in  lines,  like  the  Etruscan  and  other 
disproved  by  the  treaty  for  the  sale  of  ancient  languages,  run  from  right  (o 
the  cecen  tables  to  the  commune  of,  left  t  the  letters  show  that  there  is 
Gubblo  in  IA55,  eighty-four  years  '  little  dtlferenee  between  the  Umbrian 
lo  the  alleged  journey  to  Ve-' character  and  that  form  of  ancient 
lese  leven  tables,  now  pre-  Greek  which  we  call  Pelagic  The 
t  Gubbio,  are  of  broiuce,  Umbrian  intcrlpUotis  appear  to  be  of 
leered  with  inscriptions,  four  in  Um-  various  dales,  for  the  spelling  of  ae- 
rrian,  two  in  Latin,  and  one  in  Etrns- 1  veral  words  which  occur  in_tho  dif- 
*  Tan  and    Latin   characters.      Among  ferent  plates  is  dissimilar. 

the  numerous   antiquaries  who  have   nectiun  of  Ihe  Umbri  with  the  Greeki 

n  illustration  of  these  inscrip-   is  shown  by  the  names  of  ttieir  d«tiet 

may  be  sufficient  to  mention   in  the^  tables,  roost  of  which  are  of 

lAfl/ BuoDsroHi,  in  his  Supplement  to    Greek  origin;    and  numerous   other 

^9eaipster,  b^  wliom  Ac-similes  were^G      '  '  -i---   _..-.,._... 

ftj/ublisbBd,  considered  Ihein  as  ar-   c' 


Pcptd  StaUsJ]  ROUTE  21.~CITTA  DI  CASTELLO  TO  PERUGIA.  163 


whtiiig  to  the  •acTi6ce  of  a  dog,  the 
words  AaHs  (catulus)and  hunte  occur; 
the  last  18  curious  as  an  argument  in 
&TOur  of  the  routed  origin  of  the 
Umbri  from  the  Gauls,  by  which  of 
course  the  Celtic  nation  generally  is 
implied.     The  Latin  inscriptions  are 
highly  interesting  to  the  philological 
student ;  the  letter  O  is  used  in  place 
of  V ;  G,  a  letter  mpposed  to  have 
been  unknown  before  b.c.  353,  is  also 
to  be  recognised ;   pir  (wp)  is  used 
for  fire,  pwni  for  bread,  and  vinu  for ! 
wine.     Gubbio  was  perhaps  the  most ' 
important   of  the   Urobrian  commu- ' 
nities  whose  names  are  recorded  in  the 
tables,  and  it  is  supposed  to  answer  to  ' 
Juviscana.     As  a  proof  of  its  conse- 
quence it  is  stated  by  Passerini  that  it 
had  copper-mines  in  the  neighbouring 
mountains  and  coined  its  own  money. 
The  epigraph  on  these  coins,  which 
arc  not  uncommon,  is  ikuvimi.  I 

From  Gubbio  a   good   road    leads 
to  Perugia,  about  28   miles  across   a 
wild  and   hilly  country,  with    much 
fine  woodland  scenery.     Oxen  are  re- 
quired about  four  miles  from  Gubbio, 
and  again  for  the  last  five  miles  from 
the  Tiber  up  to  Perugia ;  or  in  going 
from  Perugia,  they  are  necessary  for 
six  miles  after  leaving  La  Piccione. 
It  is  often,  however,  very  difficult  to 
procure    these    renforts.     The    most 
convenient  baiting  places  are  Le  Ca- 
ftcraccie,  going  towards  Perugia,  and 
La  Piccione  returning  to  Gubbio,  but 
lioth    are   miserable   enough.      From 
Gubbio  to  Facondino  on  the  Foligno 
road,   is  about    13    miles   through   a 
rich  and  wooded  vale.    To  La  Schieg- 
gia   on  the   Furlo   road   is   8   miles, 
with  an  ascent  requiring  oxen  for  the 
first  SJ  miles.  (See  Route  16.)     The 
distance   from   Gubbio  to   Urbino  is 
ulx>ut  42   miles,  to  Fano  50  miles. 


ROUTE  21. 

CITTA   DX    CASTELLO   TO    PERUGIA. 

MiiM. 

Cittsi  di  Castello  to  Fratta        -       15 
Fratta  to  Perugia  -         -       15 

30 

The  first  part  of  this  road,  as  far  as 
Fratta,  is  described  in  the  preceding 
Route.     It  is  an  excellent  road  along 
the  banks  of  the  Tiber,  and  affords 
not  only   the  direct,  but  by  far  the 
best,  means  of  proceeding  from  Cittil 
di  Castello  to  Perugia,  unless  the  tra- 
veller desire  to  visit  Arezzo  and  the 
lake  of  Trasimene.     The  roads  which 
are  now  open  between  the  towns  situ- 
ated on  the  western  side  of  the  Apen- 
nines,   and    the    admirable    lines   of 
communication  which  connect   them 
with  Urbino  and  the  Adriatic,  cannot 
fail  to  make  known  an  interesting  dis- 
trict of  Southern  Italy  which  has  hi- 
therto been  scarcely  visited  by  En- 
glish travellers.     In  many  instances 
I  these  roads  are  the  direct   lines  be- 
tween Romagna  and  the  capital ;  and 
although  they  are  not  supplied  with 
'  post-horses,  there  is  no  difficulty  in 
finding  vetturini  for   the  journey  at 
almost  all  the  provincial  towns  through 
which  they  pass. 

15  m.  Fratta,  A  road,  described 
in  the  preceding  Route,  branches  off 
from  this  place  to  Gubbio,  whence 
there  are  two  roads  across  the  Apen- 
nines to  the  Flaminian  Way. 

From  Fratta  the  road  follows  the 
left  bank  of  the  Tiber  as  far  as  Ra- 
;  sina,  whence  a  branch  leads  direct  to 
J  Perugia  by  the  Ponte  Patoli.  Ano- 
ther branch  follows  the  bend  of  the 
Tiber  through  a  well-cultivated  coun- 
try, and  crosses  the  river  by  Ponte 
Felcino ;  it  is  somewhat  longer  than 
the  former. 

15  m.   Perugia  (Route  27.). 


\  TO  MARNI,  BT  TODI,&C.  [Scct.  L 


forni  or  B  Crci 


„i»  to  Todi  - 
,Bd>  to  S.  Gemial 
I  Gemini  to  Naiai 


u. 7Wi  Corona ;  Xami (Route  ST- ). 
rhia  is  ■  shorter  route  than  ihm 
I  through  Fuligno  and  Terni,  but  it  a 
^     ■  •.-Tond.      It  is  travelled  b;  a 

liree  times    a  ireefc,    tailing 
tWD  days  fot  the  journey. 

It  leave)  the  Foligno  rond  at  the 
ptra  of  Ferula,  and  rallowB  the 
MHiTW  or  tlie  Tiber,  crossing  It  about 

eding  thence  along  its  left  bank. 

S9  m.  Todi  (/an,  Corona,  very  lo- 
I  Enable).  Tliis  ancient  Umbriao  city 
I  III  ■iCuatedoni  hill  coTnmanding  mag- 
l.aiBeent  views  of  the  surrounding 
['•snntry,  and  to  high  as  to  be  a  con- 
E'J^uoiu  object  (or  a  great  distance. 

,  Semuin  l«<Hl]«iKleLTudBr," 


about  IS  loiles  to  Orvieto.  There  is 
a  road  to  Bolaena  of  9  to  12  miles, 
but  it  is  fit  only  for  a  light  gig.] 

About  hslfxay  between  Todi  and 
Nartii  is  Castel  Todino,  with  a  small 
osteria.  Beyond  it,  and  a  few  miJEi 
belbre  reaching  S.  Gemini,  is  Ginali, 
the  site  of  the  Umbrian  city  of  Caiw 
suls.  Amons  its  ruins  the  reuiaiiu 
of  a  triumphal  arch  are  still  visible. 

Near  S.  Gemini  (14  m.  Irom  Todi) 
the  road  divides  into  tvo  branch' 
that  on  the  left  lends  to  Tcrni  (lOn 
that  on  the  right  to  Nami,  also  i 
tant  about  IS  miles. 

27  m.  N*a»i  (Roule  27.). 


Montefiascone  to  Orvieto,  20  m, 
Orvieto  to  C.  della  Pieve,  38  m. 
C.  della  Pieve  to  Chiusi,  6  m. 
C.  dells  Pieve  to  Perugia,  2H  m. 
This  interesting  Boute  opens  a  new 
nd  comparatively  unknown  line  of 
lith  in  oommunication  between  the  two  post- 
erhapa  roads  from  Home  lo  Florence ;  and 
;  the  tourists  who  are  already  a«iuninted 
lurses,  with  those  roads  will  be  glad  to  hnvi 
tailed,  an  opportunity  of  giving  a  variety  U 
course  the  journey  between  the  two  greai 
broad,  capitals.  It  is  nn  agreeable  digression 
An-  from  the  beaten  tract  of  curious  tra. 
ensive  vellerB,  whether  wB  regard  the  beauty 
to  so  '  of  the  scenery  or  the  interest  of  Or- 
-to  and  CitU  della  Pieve  in  the 
itory  of  art.  Those  tourists  who 
sire  to  explore  the  Etruscan  re- 
lins  at  Chiusi.  the  capital  of  Por- 
tly combine  that  object 


They  generally  alternate,  one 
being    narrow   and    the  neil' 
Numerous  phalli  may  be  traced 
other  intetesling  ruin  is  the  exi 
building  which  has  given  rise 
much  controversy  among  antiriuanes; 
some  calling  it   a  Temple  of  Man, 
for  whose  worship   the   ancient  city 
Tvas  celebrated,  while  others  regard  it 

aj  a  basilica  of  the  time  of  the  early  !  sena,  may  ,  __ 

emperors.  \  ^i^i,  ih\5  route,  an!  nvq  even  ev-Un^ 

The  CaMrdrta,    a   Gothic   building, ',  their  encuriiDiv  W  Moti^JiVoVvs 
contains  soaie  trescoes  which  deserve]  SielTO.    T\ie  testotWuro  oS iSw 


Papai  Siaiu.']     route  23. —  orvieto. — Duomo.  165 


Vk  Cuda  tfaronghout  a  great  portion 
of  its  eouTse  will  also  enable  the  tra- 
YeUer  who  is  desirous  of  exploring  that 


20  m.  OaviBTO  (/nn,  Locanda  delle 
Belle  Arti,  on  the  Piazza  Maggiore, 
kept   by   Signor   Pontani,   an   artist, 


part  of  Tuscany  to  proceed  by  this  very  obliging  and  a  most  useful  cice- 
roate  from  Chiusi  through  the  fertile  rone  to  the  cathedral ;  Aquila  Bianca, 
Val  di  Chiana  to  Arezzo.  The  road  tolerable  for  a  country  inn  seldom 
which  we  shall  here  describe  from  I  visited  by  travellers).  The  first  ap« 
Monte6ascone  toOrvieto  and  Perugia,  I  pearance  of  Orvieto,  a  modern  cor- 
tbough  extremely  hilly  both  ways,  is  \  ruption  of  <<  Urbs  Vetus,**  the  old  city, 
well  kept ;  but  the  inns  are  small  and  bespeaks  its  Etruscan  origin  to  every 
▼ery  ill  provided,  an  objection  which  |  tourist  who  has  studied  the  charac- 
is  only  to  be  removed  by  an  increased  terbtics  of    the  ancient  capitals  of 

Etruria.  It  is  supposed  to  represent 
the  Herbanum  of  Pliny ;  but  although 
numerous  Etruscan  inscriptions  and 


influx  of  travellers. 

The  road  turns  off  from  the  Roman 
road  at    Montefiascone  close   to  the 

**  Aquila  Nera,"  the  inn  of  the  vet-  '  many  tombs  containing  vases  and  sar- 
torini  at  that  place.    Soon  after  enter-  |  cophagi,  have  been  found  there,  there 


ing  it,  an  old  church  is  passed  with  a 
curious  balcony  and  pointed  doorway. 
The  country  is  extremely  pretty, 
bearing  in  many  parts  a  great  resem- 
blance to  English  scenery,  and  diver- 
afied  by  occasional  prospects  of  the 


is  not  a  vestige  of  its  Etruscan  walls. 
In  the  middle  ages  it  was  one  of  the 
strongholds  of  the  Guelph  party.  Tlie 
local  chroniclers  record  the  names  of 
no  less  than  thirty-two  popes  who  re- 
sided at   various   periods  within  its 


lake  of  Bolsena  on  the  left.  As  we  j  walls,  the  greater  part  of  whom  were 
approach  Orvieto,  it  becomes  highly  driven  to  seek  the  security  of  its  im- 
cultivated,  and  the  lower  hills  are  pregnable  position  by  the  troubles  of 
covered  with  olive-trees  and  vineyards,  the  twelfth  and  thirteenth  centuries. 
The  first  view  of  Orvieto  is  one  of  the  Orvieto  at  the  present  time  is  the 
flncst  scenes  imaginable ;  the  plain  of  chief  city  of  a  delegation  comprehend- 
the  Paglia  is  surrounded  by  hills  of ,  ing  a  population  of  24,800  souls,  and 
picturesque  and  broken  outline,  and  \  is  the  residence  of  a  cardinal  bishop, 
from  the  midst  of  the  plain  rises  the  The  population  of  the  city  itself  in 
immense  rock  on  which  the  city  is '  1 835  was  6200. 

built,  completely  isolated,  and  bearing  |  The  Cathedral,  or  Duomo^  is  one  of 
evidence  of  its  great  strength  as  a  the  most  interesting  examples  of 
military  position  in  the  warfare  of  the  |  Italian  Gothic,  and  in  many  other 
middle  ages.  As  we  descend  the  hill .  respects  is  without  a  rival  in  the 
into  the  fertile  plain  of  the  Paglia,  >  history  of  art.  It  is  built  of  black 
which  may  be  seen  winding  in  the  and  white  marble,  like  the  cathedrals 
distance,  the  fine  forms  of  the  moun-  !  of  Siena  and  Florence ;  but  it  is  in  a 
tains,  and  the  magnificent  aspect  of  great  measure  free  from  the  bizarre 
the  city  as  it  varies  with  every  turn  effect  produced  by  the  strong  contrast 
in  the  road,  present  a  panorama  of  the  ,  of  colours  in  both  of  those  celebrated 
most  striking  interest.  '  structures.  The  fa9ade,  with  its  bright 

The  position  of  Orvieto  derives  a '  mosaics  and  marble  sculptures,  bold 
great  part  of  its  peculiar  beauty  from  and  varied  as  those  of  the  bronze  doors 
the  escarped  rock  of  volcanic  tufa  on  of  Pisa,  is  hardly  to  be  surpassed  in 
which  it  stands.  It  was  once  strongly  richness  of  material  or  in  beauty  of 
fortified,  as  may  be  seen  from  the  effect.  The  interior  presents  the 
remains  of  its  middle-age  walls  and  largest  collection  of  sculpture  belong- 
towers,  and  its  now  deserted  fortress,  ing  to  the  schools  of  the  sixteenth 
The  base  of  the  rock  is  washed  by  the  century,  and  is  enriched  by  the  famous 
Paglia,  which  fSdls  into  the  Tiber  at  paintings  oC  liuca  ^\\^ox^v^  ^\Qrccv 
Tor  di  Moate^  m  Jitth  further  south,    >  which  MicViaeX  A.u^<Ao  divdk.xio\.^\6&«xti 


E 


Mawcft  2S.''-4XViBTo.— JhMMQ. 


■'^iW6f 


borrow  for  his  gtoat  picture  of  tl 

Judgment. 

lia  remarkitble  buililing  oves  J 
igm  to  tlw  miracle  of  Boiwiiii,whii 
curred,  according  to  the  churcb  tr 


n  IV.,  being  Hita  resii 
Onieto,  the  priiat  who  had  been  eon- 
vlnced  by  tbe  mir&cle  proceeded  to 
thU  pldice  to  abtUD  afasolutioo  for  his 
doubts,  and  brougbt  witb  bim  the 
linen  and  olber  lelici  of  the  itltiir 
upon  which  the  blood  had  Isllen.  The 
pope,  attended  b;  leteral  cardiniila, 
met  the  relics  at  the  bridge  of  Rio 
Chiaro,  and  resulvcd  that  an  edifice 
shnuld 


Lorenio    Mail 


bratifd  Sicnese  architect,  ga' 
sign,  and  tbe  first  stone  was  laid  bf 
Pope  Nicliolas  VI.  in  1390.  From 
that  lime  lo  the  eud  of  the  sitleenth 
century  almost  every  artist  of  crai- 
nencc  in  architecture,  sculpture,  and 
nunaic  was emplojFed  upon  tbe  works; 
and  P.  deila  Valle,  in  bis  learned 
hiiWry  of  the  cathedral,  records  the 
names  of  no  less  than  33  architects, 
153  sculptors,  68  painters,  90  workers 

15  capi  nmeilri  i    makiog  altogethi 
no  less  than  386  arlbta  whose  tftlen 
were  devutid  to  the  embcUishment  r 
the  edifice.      The  bases  of  the   foi 
pilasters  of  tbefsfadearc  covered  wit 
bas-reliclsby  Giovanni  di  Pisa,  Amollb 
da  Firenie,  and  other  able  schola 
NiciJolS  di  Pisa.      Vasari  and  o 
■Utethat  Niccolohimseirwotked 
them  ;  whereas,  it  there  be  any  truth 
in  tlie  general  supposition  which  places 
the  death  oftlie  great  sculptor  in  IST5, 
he  died  fifteen  years  before  thefonndi- 
linn  of  this  building.    The  sculptui 
of  tbejirjif  pilaster  on  the  left  hands 
arranged  in  compartments  formed  by 
the  b        ■         '     ■  ^         . 


arge  i 


Thes 


jeets  embrace  tlie  history  of  man  from 
lIlE  Creation  to  the  settlement  a"    ' 
children  of  Noah ;  in  the  llfdi 
partment  Tubal  Cain  is  represcn: 
making  bells,  atxii  Selh  has  a  coi 


IntheaecDnrftbe 

Lcipal  figure,  and  nil  the  others 
connecting  links,  illustrating 
cent  of  the    Virgin  ftom  the 


Che  judges  who  ruled  oier  Israel  after 
the  death  of  Joshua  ;  tbe  pedigree  of 
:he  Virgin  is  shown  <n  a  series  of  eight 
jvala,   on   which    are  sculptured  the 
principal  persom^es  and  cTents  which 
may  be  considered  ns  the  successire 
itoges  of  the  descent.    The  thhd  pilas- 
ter, of  whivh  the  principal  figures  are 
Jacob  0nd  tbe  prophets,   is   entirely 
trativoofthehlstorvofthe  Saviour 
I  the  Annunciation  to  the  Resur- 
on.      The  fi^rlh,  in  a  series  of 
riling    sculptures,  represents  the 
Judgment,  the  Inferno,  and  the 
ts  in  Paradise.      Tliere  is  perhaps 
-ork  of  the  kind,  whether  we  eon. 
sider  tbe  early  period  of  its  elecation> 
e  minute  variety  of  its  dctjiilj, 
deserving  of  attentive  study  than 
cmsrkahle  composition.      In  the 
no,  the  imagination  of  Giovanni 
sa  Kems  to  have  been  inexhaun- 
the    horrid    monsters   and    the 
grotesque  modes  of  punishment  are 
mtircly  original,  and  the  eieeulion  Of 
ihe  whole  is  characterised  by  an  elalia- 
'ate  and  careful  workmanship.   Signer 
Ponlani  has  made  accurate  drawings 
of  these  bas-relief  with  the  intention 
of  bating  ithem  engraved  and  pub- 
lished.     Above  these  pilasters  are  the 
four  bronie  emblems  of  the  Evange- 
lists.     The  spaces  over  the  doors,  and 
three-pointed  gables  of  the 
filled  with  modern  mosiucs 
on  a  gold  ground,  representing  the 
Annunciation,  tbe  Sposalizio,  the  Bap- 
tism of  Christ,  Ihe  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin,  &c.      The  three  doorways  are 
also  richly  worked,  and  present  some 
fine  eiamples  of  spiral  columns   co- 
vered with  musnic,  foliage,  and  other 

ITie  interior  is  of  black  snd  white 


Piq^l  Staies.']  H.  23. — orvieto. — Duomo, — Chapels.         167 

148,  the  height  165  palms.  The  win-  I  of  the  angel  scarcely  merits  criticism, 
dows  are  all  lancet  shaped,  and  many  •  and  sufficiently  indicates  the  decline 
of  those  which  are  not  closed  up  have  ^  of  art  and  the  corruption  of  taste. 
finely  painted  glass  in  the  upper  por-  |  The  tarsia  of  the  choir  was  executed 
tions,  and  diaphanous  alabaster  in  the  ^  chiefly  by  artists  of  Siena  in  the  four- 
lower.  The  nave  is  divided  from  the  ;  teenth  century ;  that  of  the  pulpit  is 
aisles  by  six  arches  on  each  side,  the  of  later  date,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
columns  supporting  them  are  88  palms  '  designed  by  Scalza.  The  multiplicity 
high,  and  have  capitals  of  different  of  riches  in  other  parts  of  the  church 
styles.  I  frequently   distracts  the  attention  of 

In  front  of  these  columns  stand  the !  the  traveller  from  these  remarkable 
statues  of  the  twelve  Apostles  in  white  !  works  ;  but  they  are  nevertheless 
marble;  they  are  1 3  palms  6  inches  in  '  worthy  of  close  examination,  and  are 
height,  and  are  placed  on  pedestals  8  not  surpassed  by  any  other  examples 
palms  high,  so  tiiat  their  colossal  pro-  in  Italy.  The  two  altars  in  the 
portions  produce  an  effect  not  less  im-  ,  transepts,  representing  the  Adoration 
posing  than  that  of  the  guardian  figures,  of  the  Magi  and  the  Visitation,  are 
which  surround  the  tomb  of  Maxi- ,  masterpieces  of  sculpture ;  they  are 
milian  at  Innspruck.  On  the  lefl  side  both  of  Carrara  marble.  The  Visit- 
are —  St.  Peter,  by  Francesco  Mosca;  alion  is  composed  of  nine  figures,  in 
St.  .\ndrew,  by  Fabiano  Toti,  finished  almost  whole  relief,  and  nearly  as 
by  Ippolito  Scalza ;  St.  John,  by  Ip  •  large  as  life,  with  an  abundance  of 
polito  Scalza;  St.  Philip,  by  Fran-  arabesques  and  other  ornaments;  it 
cesco  Mochi ;  St.  Matthew,  by  John  was  designed  by  San  Micheli  of  Ve- 
of  Bologna  ;  St.  Taddeus,  by  Fran-  rona,  and  executed  at  the  age  of  fiflecn 
cesco  Mochi.  On  the  right  are  —  |  by  Moschino,  son  of  Simone  Mosca. 
SL  Simon,  by  Bernardino  Cametti ;  By  the  side  is  a  statue  of  Christ  at 
St.  James  the  Less,  by  the  same ; :  the  Column,  by  Gabriele  Mercanti. 
St.  Bartholomew,  by  Ippolito  Buzio  ;  i  llie  other  altar,  of  the  Adoration 
St.  Thomas,  by  Scalza,  said  to  be  a  i  of  the  Magi,  is  by  Mosca  himself, 
representation  of  himself;  St.  James, !  and  is  praised  by  Vasari  as  a  noble 
by  Giovanni  Caccini ;  and  St.  Paul,  |  specimen  of  art.  The  statue  of  the 
by  Francesco  Mosca,  a  bad  imitation  Ecce  Homo  near  it  is  by  Scalza. 
of  the  Farnese  Hercules.  The  most  The  Chapel  of  the  Snntisshno  Cor' 
remarkable  of  these  figures  arc  the  porale  contains  the  splendid  reliquiary 
St.  Matthew  and  the  St.  Thomas  j  j  of  the  Corporal  of  Bolsena,  which  can- 
the  latter  is  full  of  dignity  and  life,      j  not  be  seen  without  an  order  from  the 

At  the  high  altar  are  the  celebrated  .  Bishop.  On  entering  the  chapel  there 
figures  of  the  Annunziata  and  the  are  two  statues  in  niches  on  either 
Archangel,  by  Mochi.  llie  Virgin  is  side,  which  deserve  attention  -^  that 
represented  as  starting  from  her  seat  \  of  the  Saviour  is  by  Raffaele  da  Mon- 
at  the  salutation  of  the  archangel ;  telupo,  and  that  of  the  Virgin  by 
her  hand  grasps  the  chair  with  almost  Fabiano  Toti.  The  magnificent  rc" 
convulsive  energy,  and  her  countc-  >  liquiary  was  executed  in  solid  silver 
nance  wears  an  expression  of  iniligna-  ,  by  the  famous  Ugolino  Veri  of  Siena, 
tion,  little  in  accordance  with  the ,  in  1338;  it  contains  no  less  than 
feelings  which  inspired  the  great  400  lbs.  weight  of  silver.  It  re[>resents 
painters  on  the  same  subject.  The  the  fa9ade  of  the  cathedral,  and  is  co- 
m.ijesty  of  the  figure  as  a  work  of  art  vered  with  enamels  of  the  most  minute 
commands  admiration,  but  it  is  the  and  delicate  workmanship,  and  so 
majesty  of  the  tragic  muse ;  and  we  brilliant  in  their  colours,  that  it  is 
look  in  vain  for  the  "troubled"  hu- '  almost  difficult  to  i^^^oix^  ^^^vAxv  \a 
milit^  MBcribed  by  St  Luke  to  the  five  ccntuncA  oVA.  TV\<i  tv>3LVc\wi,x\^?vs 
"bMiidamid  of  the  Ijonf.  *'   The  figure   coluinn^  and  fttalue&  w«  ^vc^Jh  ^^** 


BocTi  23. — ORViETO. — Duomo. — C^ttpeb.    fStct'fr 


oipu 


■ad  vould  fiU  pagu  □ril< 
TheBubjteUoftheenamel 
ihicily  oonoeeted  with  l! 


e  Miracle, 
P«sion.  In  this  fame  ch.pel  h  a 
picture  of  Ihe  Madanna,  by  that  rare 
nustei  Geniile  da  Fabriano. 

The  Chnjicl  of  the  Mubnnu  di  S. 
Bricio,  in  llic  opposite  transept,  con- 
taining ihe  mtraculouB  image  of  tlie 
Virgin,  is  still  more  renurkoblc  for 
^^  '  lings,  Mid  for  the  group  of  the 
ihe  masterpiece  of  Scalia.  At 
trance  are  two  niches,  with 
of  Adam  and  Eie,  by  Fabianu 
BndHaftiieledaMontelupo.  The 
irelf  covered  with  the 
nca  Si^itordli,  and  the 
□f  Ihe  roof  are  painted 
_^  .  o  Aiigdieo  da  Fiaott,  Bmoito 
Gnmli,  and  olJier  eminent  artists  of 
thai  period.  The  Cliriat  sitting  in 
Judgment,  the  Coronation  of  tlie 
Virgin,  vith  tbe  noble  group  of  the 
Prophets  and  the  anny  of  Martyrs, 


and  is  worthy  of  long  and  careful  i 
aminalion  -.  tbe  anatomical  Ic.inrledge 

of  eipression  perfectly  wonderful. 
The  Inferno  and  the  I'aradiso  com- 
plete Ihe  series,  and  in  their  contri 
of   deformity  and    iKauly    con^tit 


r   painted.       Jit    t 


of  the  I 


imong   t 


!  the  ChilM 


works  of  Bcalo  Angdico 
in  Judgment  is  belieTed  to  nave  sug- 
gested the  welt-known  figure  of  tbe 
Ssviour  in  the  Sistine  cbapel.  The 
subjects  chosen  by  Luca  Signordti 
are,  the  history  of  Anticbrist,  the  Re- 
surrection, and  the  Last  Judgment, 
Tbey  are  so  arranged  as  to  fornix 
the  BuccesaiTe  chapters  of  one  great 
epic;  and  the  illustrious  artist,  then 
nearly  siity  years  of  age,  has  given 
us,  !□  these  paintings,  an  eiplanation 
of  many  remarkable  passages  in  the 
great  work  of  Michael  Angelo.  Tbe 
representation  of  the  Fall  of  Antl- 
chriit  comes  first.  He  la  tben  seen 
preaching  to  Ihe  people,  prompted  by 
the  Evil  Spirit :  at  bis  feet  are  the 
gold,  and  jewels,  and  mDuey,  with 
which  he  tempts  bis  tiillowers;  the 
crowd  of  listeners  are  in  IhemseWea  a 
study  of  costume  and  character.      In 

Archangel,  who  hurls  Antichrist  into 

tbe  pit ;  in  Ihe  coiner  of  this  com- 

p^rCment  Seato  Angelica  and  Luca 

biiosetf  are    introduced   among  the 

spectafg^     Tbe  ilesurreotion  follows, 


.riling  m 


ary  piol 
Inferno  the 
ins  to  bave 
lieen  la»isheil  in  creating  new  forms  of 
demons;  while  in  tbe  fine  campoaitioo 
of  the  Faradiso  tbe  figures  of  the  am 
pbim  are  no  less  astonishing  for  th« 
beauty.  Besides  these  paintiugstber 
Lngular  series  of  subjects  taken 
from  classical  history  and  biography 
Descent  of  ^/Eneos,  T 
idromeda,  tbe  Rape  of  Proaer* 
pine,  Ino  and  Melicerte,  and  poitraits 
'  '"  il,  Ovid.  Claudian,  Seneca,Biid 
i  forn!"  „ 

iiture  of  sacred  and  probne 
s.  The  lower  parts  of  tbe 
vail  were  whitewashed  till  t' 
1S45,  when  they  were  cleaned  and 
fuund  to  be  alao  painted  i 
The  subjects  are  medallion  portraiU 
of  Ihe  Italian  poets,  scenes  from  tha 
Diiina  Conmiedia  and  mythah^icat 
subjecU.  We  bate  already  sUtedtlutt 
Michael  Angelo  did  not  disdain  ' 
borrow  from  these  works  of  Luca  Sig- 
norelli,  if  indeed  he  did  not  altogether 
form  the  design  of  his  Last  Judgment 
upon  them.  Raphael  is  also  said  to 
have  1,-ludied  and  copied  them ;  and 
the  traiellcr  will  not  be  at  a  loss  b 
discover  a  group  which  seems  to  b 
the  prototype  of  his  Three  Graces. 

The  celebrated  Pidi,  eieculed  in 
1573,  is  the  masterpiece  of  Ippolito 
Scalja.  It  b  a  group  of  four  figures 
a  third  larger  than  life,  representing 
Ihe  Deposition  from  Ihe  Cross,  and  is 
sculptured  out  of  a  single  block.  It 
is  perhaps  the  grande 
the  school  of  Michael 

In  the  cliapeU  of  the  side  aisles  are 
several  pictures:  the  graceful  Ma- 
donna and  St.  Catheiiue,  liy  Gattile 
da  FabtioHO;  Ihe  Healing  Ihe  Blind 
I  and  the  tlesuneelioo  ti  iha  Widow*! 
I  Son  at  lilun,\i-]  Toddu  Zucgotvi  i^ 


l^tfal  SiainJ}  etb.23. — orviito  to  citta  della  pieve.   169 


Bminng  of  Luanii,  by  Cireignani ; 
and  tbc  Marriage  of  Cana,  by  the 
■uii#,  atill  retaimng  its  singular  fresh- 
Bcn  of  eolour.  On  the  other  side  are 
^w  Christ  in  the  Garden  ;  the  Flagel- 
lalioii ;  Calyary ;  and  the  Crowning 
with  Thorns,  &c»  by  Muziano, 

The  statue  of  St.  Sebastian  at  the 
•nd  of  the  church  is  the  nuMt  perfectly 
beautiful  of  all  the  single  figures  in 
the  building ;  its  style  is  at  once  pure 
and  classical,  and  yet  it  is  said  that  it 
was  executed  by  S<»lza  in  four  months, 
lor  the  sum  of  ten  crowns  I 

The  Church  of  S.  Domenico  contains 
a  fine  monument  by  Amxifo  di  Lapo, 

After  the  cathedral,  the  most  re- 
markable object  in  Orvieto  is  the  Well 
called,  in  honour  of  the  Apostle  of 
Ireland,  11  Pozxo  di  San  Patrizio.  It 
ia  situated  near  the  fortress,  about  a 
mile  firom  the  town.  It  was  designed 
and  begun  by  Antonio  Sangallo  to  re- 
Vara  the  garrison  when  Clement  VII., 
allar  the  sack  of  Rome  in  1527,  took 
rcAige  here  with  his  whole  court.  It 
ia  a  surprising  proof  of  the  versatile 
powers  of  that  great  architect,  and  is 
hardly  inferior  to  the  best  works  of 
ancient  Rome.  It  bears  a  great  re- 
aemblance  to  the  celebrated  **  Joseph's 
Well,**  in  the  citadel  of  Grand  Cairo, 
and,  although  not  so  deep,  it  is  broader 
and  grander  in  appearance  than  that 
remarkable  work  of  the  Sultan  Sala. 
din.  It  is  enclosed  in  a  hollow  cir- 
cular tower  with  double  walls,  between 
which  two  spiral  staircases  are  car- 
ried, one  aboTc  the  other,  with  sepa- 
rate entrances ;  so  that  we  descend  by 
the  one  and  ascend  by  the  other.  It 
is  partly  cut  in  the  tufa  rock,  and 
partly  built ;  the  depth  of  the  well  is 
975  Roman  palms;  the  open  centre 
ia  60  palms;  the  inner  wall  is  per- 
forated with  72  windows  from  top  to 
bottom  to  admit  light.  The  staircase 
has  2-18  steps  arranged  **  a  cordoni,** 
so  that  mules  may  be  employed  in 
bringing  up  the  water.  The  upper 
part  of  the  well,  or  rather  all  the 
buildings  above  ground,  were  finished 
hj  Simone  Mosca,  ia  the  pontiRcate 
4jf  Paul  III,  Between  the  two  en- 
CSrjr/.  ft. 


trance-doors  is  the  inscription — **  Qtiocf 
Naiura  munimento  inriderat  indvHria 
adjecit"  Orvieto  has  long  ceased  to 
be  a  garrison  town,  and  the  well  is 
now  disused. 

The  Pcdazzo  Gualtieri  contains  an 
extraordinary  collection  of  Cartoons 
by  Domenichino,  Annibale  Caraccit 
Franceschini,  Albani,  &c.,  which  the 
Marchese,  with  the  politeness  so  gene* 
rally  found  in  the  provincial  cities, 
liberally  permits  strangers  to  examine* 
In  the  first  room  are  two  battle  pieces 
by  Franceschini,  designed  for  Genoa. 
In  the  second  room  are  Temperance, 
by  Domenichino,  very  fine ;  and  other 
designs  by  Ann.  Caracci,  Albani,  and 
Franceschini.  In  the  third  are  Mars, 
by  Ann.  Caracci;  and  Joseph's  Dream, 
by  Carlo  Cignani.  In  the  fourth  room 
are  Fame  and  History,  by  Domeni- 
china  In  the  chapel  adjoining  is  a 
beautiful  fresco  of  the  Archangel  Mi- 
chael, removed  from  its  original  posi- 
tion, and  attributed,  perhaps  with  good 
reason,  to  Luca  Signorelli.  It  has 
been  restored  in  parts  by  Prof.  Corne- 
lius of  Munich.  In  the  fifth  room  are 
the  Fame,  Hbtory,  and  Fidelity,  by 
Domenichino ;  Love  and  Venus,  and 
Love  and  Hvmen,  by  Albani.  In  the 
sixth  room  is  a  series  illustrating  va« 
rious  events  in  the  life  of  St.  Catherine 
of  Siena,  by  Ann.  Caracci.  On  the 
roof  of  another  room  is  a  fresco  <^ 
Endymion  sleeping  and  surprised  by 
Diana,  said  to  be  by  Gherardo  della 
Notte.  In  the  gallery  is  a  Deposition, 
by  Baroccio,  damaged ;  a  good  Gher- 
ardo della  Notte ;  and  two  heads  said 
to  be  by  Titian  (?). 

In  the  Palazzo  Petrangeli  there  is 
also  a  collection  of  pictures  to  which 
strangers  are  admitted.  There  is  a 
small  theatre  in  the  town,  where  operas 
are  occasionally  performed. 

A  diligence  runs  once  a  week  be- 
tween Orvieto  and  Viterbo,  leaving 
Orvieto  on  Tuesday,  and  returning 
from  Viterbo  on  Wednesday.  From 
Orvieto  there  is  a  bridle  road  of  about 
18  miles  to  ToA\  ^Uoul^^l^,  wv^  ^ 
^d  gig  vo^^  ^0  "C^c^^xv^  c«^^\  ^ 
miles,  but  about  \^ 


tTO        ROTTTR  9S— 'SniFA   OVELA- Pint  TO  OimTST.  -XSeOttt.' 

The  diitanse  froni  OnietD  to  CilU  Child  are  silting  under  a  dwd,  rc- 
della  Fieve  is  28  miles.  Tlie  roitd  .  eeivinR  the  ofleringa  of  Ihc  nise  men. 
deuendi  4  miles  from  the  town  into  I  The  Virgin  is  eiguiiitely  beauliiiil: 
tbe  pUin  oF  the  Piglia,  whicli  <l  the  grouping  a  Taried  and  full  of 
crones  noiir  its  junction  with  the  cliBracter  j  a  rich  landscape  with  liorab- 
Chiana,  andprooeedsup  the  Yaliey  Lj  Imen  and  various  figures  forou  the 
Bagni  towRrds  Fieulle.  I'he  ascent  of  bock-ground  i  the  heads  are  full  at 
T  miles  to  Ficullc,  asmall  walled  town 

of  1 600  souls  is  Tery  fine,  Blul  the  hills 

Are  well  wooded,  generally  with  old 

oats.      The  vallejr  at   its  entrance   a 

perfecllf  homely  in  its  character,  the 

country  i»  rich  and  productive  j  and 

jet  it  is  not  cultivatsd  to  half  the  ex- 
tent of  which  it  is  susceptible.      The 

hais  are  a  soft  tertiary  sandstone,  and 

wherever  the  road  has  eiposed  a  sec- 

ehlefly  hivslves,  are  found 


it  has  a 


s  about  half  the  distance  be- 
rrieto  and  C.  della  Fieve,  but 
mall  neat  /nn  with  clean  beds 
trance  to  the  village.  While 
the  liorses  are  resting  the  traveller 
may  eiamiae  the  Gothic  church  and 
ctypi,  and  the  remains  of  the  bridge 
attributed  to  Nero.  In  the  wall  of 
Sta.  Maria  is  an  ancient  inscription  re- 
cording the  erecdon  of  a  Temple  of 
the  Sun  by  Claudius,  in  comtncmora- 
lion  of  some  victory  in  the  East,  Be- 
tween Ficutle  and  Pieve  U  another 
rapid  descent  of  3  milea,  from  which  a 
long  pull  brings  us  to  the  little  village 
of  Monteleone,  with  a  picture  by  Ptru- 
"      ■     '   i  church. 


expression   and    elaborately   finiabed. 

This  picture,  although  injured  by  the 

damp  of  tlie  adjoining  sacristy,  the 

floor   of  which    was    formerly   muofa 

higher  than  the  oratory,  has  suffered 

less  than  any  other  picture  by  Peru- 

jfino  in  the  town-      In  a  closet  below 

the  fresco  are  preserved  two  tetters  of 

Fietro   relating    lo  the   picture,    and 

three  earthen  pots  and  fragmente  of 

lera   which    are  supposed   to   have 

itained  his  paints.      They  were  dia- 

rered  by  tbe  Prior  Bolleiti  under 

the  floor  of  the  sacristy  in  1B35.     In 

the  first  letter   Pietro  states  that  the 

ure  ought   to   cost  at  least   SOO 

ins,  but   that  he  will  be  ooDtent 


h  IOC 


nan  (CO 


be  paid  at  once  (scubeta]^ 
le  rest  in  3  years,  SS  each  yup. 

propia"    and  dated   "  limcia    twute 

dc  Frehah,  1 504. "  The  second  show* 
Ihat  he  was  obliged  to  lessen  his  tenm 
!o  75  florins;  be  requests  the  syndic 
lo  send  a  mule  and  guide,  that  he  may 
xraie  and  paint,  and  says  that  he  viH 
ibateS5  florins,  "  e  niente  pin  j "  itl> 

signed  as  before,  and  dated  ••  PenmtB 
I  de  Mann,  15M,"     In  tbe  chunA  of 

the  ServiteB,  outside  the  Orvicto  gatcy 


28  m.  Cm, 
La  Luaa,  very  bod, 
able  as  a  resling-pli 
Pietro  Valentini  keeps  a  lodging  of  the  Crucitiiion,  ruined  by  building 
house  opposite,  where  strangers  will  tbe  present  bellVy.  In  the  Cathedral 
liad  clean  bed.<  and  great  civility.) '  are  his  Baptism  of  the  Saviour,  in  s 
The  town  is  clean,  though  poor,  and  .  side  chapel,  and  an  altar  piece  in  the 
has  some  handsome  but  deserted  choir  representing  the  Madonna  and 
palaces.  Its  chief  interest  to  the  tra-  '  Cliild  in  an  oval,  with  St.  Peter,  St 
veller  is  derived  li-om  its  being  the  '  Paul,  and  two  other  saints  below.  In 
birthplace  of  Pietro  Perugino  —  to  the  church  of  S.  Antonio,  at  tbe  bot- 
many  persons  a  sufficient  induecment  lorn  of  the  town,  is  another  pointing 
to  make  it  the  objent  of  a  pilgrim-  j  by  Pietro,  representing  St.  Paul  and 
age.  In  the  Chiesarella,  called  al«o  .two  saints.  Tbe  view  trom  the  door 
tAe  oratory  of  Sta,  Maria  de  Bianahi,  of  this  church  over  the  valley  which 
r  J?itajiS»ati,  is  one  of  his  flnett ',  lepnates  the  Papal  States  trom  Tut. 
scoes.  It  represents  the  Adora-  '  cany  is  ^erf  fine. 
tioa  0f  the  Magi;  tbe  Madonnft  and  ',      Cittk  deWa  Tle^c  qS«s  b.  i:^^™ 


FqpofiSfafes.] 


ROUTB  29.— CHIUSI. 


171 


WBUBpto  of  th*  fetam  of  the  taste  or 
pMBon  for  the  elasrio  style  of  arebU 
tMture :  there  is  scarcely  a  street  in 
which  we  may  not  see  numerous  ex- 
amples of  pointed  arches  both  in  doors 
end  windows,  which  have  been  walled 
vp  in  order  to  adapt  them  to  the  new 
fiishion ;  and  as  plaster  has  been  spar- 
ingly used,  it  has  been  impossible  to 
eoooeal  the  change. 

XZCUE8ION  TO  CHiusi,  6  Miles. 

TVavellers  who  are  desirous  of  visit* 
ing  the  anraent  capital  of  Porsena 
will  find  an  excellent  road  from  Citta 
della  Piere,  through  a  country  of  ex- 
aceding  beauty,  abounding  with  forests 
of  fine  oaks ;  but  the  ascent  to  each 
town  is  long  and  steep.  The  Tuscan 
frontier  is  crossed  before  we  reach 
CThiusi.  The  Leone  d'Oro  b  the  only 
inn  at  Chiusi,  the  ascent  to  which  is 
dangerously  steep,  so  that  carriages 
and  horses  should  be  left  at  the  remise 
outside  the  gate.  The  accommoda- 
tion  at  tills  inn  is  very  tolerable,  but 
capable  of  improvement ;  and,  in  order 
to  prevent  any  misunderstanding  as 
to  charges,  a  bargain  ought  to  be  made 
beforehand.  The  most  intelligent 
guide  to  the  antiquities  of  Chiusi  is 
Giambattista  Zeppoloni,  a  civil  and 
obliging  shoemaker,  who  will  save  the 
traveller  much  delay  and  trouble  by 
procuring  the  keys  of  the  principal 
tombs  from  their  respective  custodL 
Those  travellers  who  are  interested  in 
Etruscan  antiquities  will  hardly  fail 
to  find  friends,  particularly  among  the 
learned  ecclesiastics  and  resident  land- 
owners, who  have  done  so  much  to 
preserve  and  illustrate  the  sepulchral 
and  other  monuments  of  the  city. 

Chiusi  was  one  of  the  Twelve  cities 
of  the  Etruscan  league,  and  one  of 
the  Five  which  asnsted  the  Latins 
asainst  Tarquinius  Priscus.  Its  an- 
tiquity is  further  proved  by  the  fret 
that  Virgil  represents  it  as  sending 
assistance  to  ^neas  against  Tumus. 
Its  history  during  the  reign  of  For- 
Bena  is  too  ^miliar  to  require  descrip- 
tioa  in  thit  work.     It  will  be  su/H- 


dent  for  our  purpose  to  say  that  the 
eity  seems  to  have  preserved  its  name 
and  its  position  through  all  the 
changes  and  vicissitudes  of  Rome* 
Even  in  the  Middle  Ages,  tliough  its 
population  was  thinned  by  malaria, 
the  site  was  never  deserted  like  that 
of  other  Etruscan  cities.  The  tra- 
veller, therefore,  finds  Chiusi  occupy- 
ing its  ancient  site,  which  is  agreeably 
placed  on  an  eminence  500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  small  but  pretty  lake  to 
which  it  gives  its  name.  It  is  an  epis- 
copal city  of  2200  souls,  but  its  vicinity 
to  some  of  the  marshy  districts  of  tl^ 
Val  di  Chiana,  renders  it  at  times  un- 
healthy. Of  its  ancient  walls  very  few 
firagments  can  now  be  traced;  those 
which  are  visible  are  generally  capped 
by  mediaeval  masonry,  and  in  some  cases 
by  Roman  work,  lliey  are  invariably 
composed  of  rectangular  blocks  of  tn^ 
vertine,  of  much  smaller  size  than 
those  of  most  other  Etruscan  cities, 
but  are  put  together  with  the  ut- 
most precision,  and  without  oementp 
Though  there  are  so  few  remains  of 
the  fortifications,  the  town  is  literally 
undermined  by  subterranean  passages, 
many  of  which  have  been  called 
**  labyrinths  "  by  ancient  and  modem 
writers :  it  is  now  believed  that  some 
of  them  were  connected  with  the 
sewerage  of  the  aocient  city;  but 
there  are  others  which  were  evidently 
destined  for  other  purposes,  although 
what  those  purposes  may  have  been, 
is  still  a  mystery.  Independently 
of  these  remains,  the  traveller  will 
find  that  Chiusi  is  rich  in  interest 
and  novelty,  particularly  In  her  mu- 
seum and  tombs.  The  great  museum 
I  is  that  of  Signor  Casuccini,  one  of 
I  the  wealthy  proprietors  of  the  city, 
'  whose  entire  collection  was  found, 
with  few  exceptions,  on  his  own  land. 
It  is  rich  in  vases  of  every  known 
variety  of  Etruscan  form,  in  tazze,  in 
bronzes,  specchj,  focolari,  cinerary 
urns,  and  square  or  round  pedestals  of 
eippi,  which  it  would  fill  a  volume  to 
describe.  Sevet«\  ot  \yv«»&  mxta  vei\ 
cippi  are  decotaVed  wViy\  \)«b-T«^v&^'& 
illustratmg    tVie    t^\%w\»>   w4>\^  at 

1  ^ 


^Kn 


houteSS.. — mirsi.  —  Thmhs. 

Paoloiii 


country ;  many  of 
thne  seulplures  are  of  peculiar  and 
touching  ioterist,  and  aonte  are  alto- 
gether unique  u  reprewntatiotu  of 
nalicmal  mannc 
icpulchrat  monuments  fbaff  ihat  the 


Cbiut 


t  thai 


■ddom  buried  thrm.  The  sarcophagi 
•n  not  more  than  three  or  four  in 
nurober,  while  of  cinerary  urns  or  ash- 
cbeus  there  >re  iipwardi  of  a  hundred 
_'ln  tenaootto,  about  filly  in  marble, 
d  neatly  tlie  larae  number  id  travcr- 
i«;  the  collection  is  daily  increBsing. 
■  irhoU  it  fonni  one  uf  the 
traacan  museums  ever  formed, 
e  pottery  io  thia  mu^ieuiD  includes 
trom    varioui     Etrus 


>,but  l! 


IB    of 


e  that  which  is  pcculiai 
vitftr  and  its  territory.  Thii  U  a 
■  «oane  unglaied  hlaek  ware,  rude 
i  lalber  than  inelegant  in  form,  oud 
I  4«eanilei]  witb  quaint  and  eiiggerated 
I  lA^res  of  animals  and  monsters,  the 

Sle  and  eiccuiion  denoting  a  period 
nnnu&eture  long  anterior  to  the 
~       -  -"      ■  -      ■     middle 


if  Greek  ai 


tSect:t 

ich  in  uma,  vases,  medala, 
anil  uu-reliefx,  of  the  highest  inlerart. 
which  have  been  collected  by  succea- 
iive  generation*  of  the  Paoioni  fiimily, 
and  preserved  as  heir  loon»  by  thnr 
descendants.  Among  the  matt  re- 
markable objecla  in  the  collection  we 
may  mention  the  cinerary  jari  called 
Canopi,  froin  their  resemblance  to 
those  of  Egypt,  with  lids  in  the  form 
of  human  heads,  both  male  and  temale, 
the  variety  of  which  leaves  no  doubt 
that  they  are  portraits  of  tliose  whose 
asliea  they  contain.  Anotiier  eele- 
brated  object  is  a  bas-relief  which  has 
been  illustrated  by  Inghirami  and 
Micali,  representing  the  death-bed  of 
a  lady  surrounded  by  the  mouriiert 
who  vere  hired  at  funerals  to  tear 
their  hair  and  lacerate  their  cheeks ; 
the  deep  grief  of  her  little  son  i>  a 

and  is  in  itself  as  touching  an  episode 
as  we  shall  find  in  the  whule  range  of 
ancient  sculpture.  Tlie  Uiiliop  of 
Chiusi  has  formed  in  his  palace  au 
interesting  collection  of  vasiri  found 


several  of  the  Canons  have  collected 

ib  what  may  be  called  a   atatue-sar- 

ScaralHEi  and  other   relic-,  and  Cap- 

tain Sotzi  keeps  a  variety  for  sale  at 

moderate  prices. 

-Wbite  robes,  with   bas-reliefs  on  the 

>edeMaL      The  head,  anna,  ■and  feel 

'HHV  in    separate   pieces,  attached   by 

ticipate  in  a  place  whicli  was  once  tbc 

Metd  pins  to  the  body  which  is  hoi- 

moat    important   capital  of    Etruria. 

The  one  which  the  very  name  of  th^ 

Ttbt   ashes   of    the    deocas.;i       It    is 

city  will  recall   to  every  traveller  — 

the  mausoleum  and  Ubyrinih  of  Pm- 

btod  the  whole  figure  seems  to  have 

sena,  so  well-known  by  the  descrip- 

li^Min Doloured.      The  palace  uf  Signor 

tions  of  Pliny  and  Varro—  baa  bad  no 

nteresting  less  tlian  lour  representatives ;  in  other 
rtlijects.  Among  them  is  the  cell^-  words,  four  tumuli  have  disputed  the 
Iirated  black  vase  called  by  the  Frus-  hoiiour  of  being  the  tomb  of  the  ciMi- 
Maii  anliqiiaries  "  the  Anuhis  Vase,"  queior  of  Rome.  Although  one  of 
from  the  resemblanccof  thefirsl  Agure  these  contains  the  largest  labyrinth 
itL  the  group  of  mysterious  personages  yet  opened,  it  is  now  generally  be- 
who  are  represented  upon  it  to  tlie  lieied  that  the.  tomb  of  I'orsena  hat 
Egyptian  deity  of  that  name.  An  -  |  yet  to  be  discovered.  In  regard  to  tbe 
other  vase  celebrated  for  its  lurpassing  '  deseription  of  that  celebrated  moou- 
beauty,  represents  the  Judgment  of  |  menl  with  three  piles  of  jiyramids, 
J^ari.1;  It  tria  (bund  in  the  Foggio  .wtiicUmenof  science  have  pronounced 
tSaJcUa,  broken  into  120  miuuli' '  W  be  inipD8Ki\i\e,\\i  »"HQnX\ -«hUe  to 
pieces.         The     collet-tion    of    Signor    oteetve,t\iat,tt\i.VQ«5L^  ftwiewn^VCvw 


PtgMil  SiaiesJ}        ItouTE  23.-»-chiusi. —  Tomht^ 


doubtliM  written  from  tradition, 
and  tbcrefim  probably  exaggerated, 
the  remains  of  the  tomb  of  Anins,  the 
■on  of  Foraena»  at  Albano^  are  suffi- 
eient  to  ifaow  that  the  main  outlines  of 
the  dcsoription  are  correct* 

It  would  be  useless  to  enter  into  a 
minute  account  of  the  various  tombs 
which  lie  scattered  over  the  hills 
around  ChiusL  They  do  not  occur 
in  a  necropolis,  as  in  other  Etruscan 
eitiesy  but  are  found  among  the  neigh- 
bouring heights,  excavated  mostly  in 
the  hill  side^  and  entered  by  a  level 
passage  in  the  slope.  They  are  often 
■t  some  distance  from  each  other ;  for 
which  leasco  they  are  best  visited  on 
horseback.  Without  attempting  to 
give  a  complete  list  of  all  that  may  be 
seen,  we  shall  mention  a  few  of  the 
most  remarkable  to  which  the  tra- 
veller can  obtain  access.  As  we  have 
already  stated,  the  principal  tombs  are 
kept  locked,  so  that  the  cicerone  must 
be  instructed  beforehand  to  make  the 
necessary  arrangements  with  their  re- 
spective custodi.  Of  the  six  we  shall 
notice^  three  lie  on  the  N.E.  of  the 
town,  vis.  the  Deposito  del  Poggio 
Gi^lla,  S  miles  distant ;  the  Deposito 
del  Sovrano,  Smiles;  and  the  Deposito 
della  Scimia,  1  mile :  one  lies  on  the 
£•  of  the  town,  called  the  Depouto 
del  Colle  Casuocini;  and  two  lie  on 
the  N.W.,  vis.  the  Deposito  de'  Dei, 
S  miles ;  and  the  Deposito  delle  Mo- 
naclie,  I J  mile  distant.  — 1.  Depotito 
dd  Poggio  GajeUa,  wo  called  fixmi  the 
hill  of  that  name,  3  miles  N.£.  of  the 
town.  This  tomb  or  series  of  tombs 
was  discovered  in  1840  by  the  Casuo- 
cini family,  whose  museum  has  been 
enriched  by  many  of  the  treasures  it 
contained.  Ita  discovery,  however, 
had  a  higher  interest  for  the  anti- 
quiiry,  in  the  peculiar  labyrinths  which 
have  made  the  Poggio  Gigella  cele- 
brated throughout  Europe,  and  in- 
duced archsBologists  to  compare  its 
mysterious  passages  with  the  well- 
known  description  of  the  labyrinths 
of  the  tomb  of  Porsena.  The  G^jella 
is  M  eonietJ  hill  of  mbout  SO  feet  in 
height,  origmaUy  surroundi'd  at  ita 


base  by  a  circular  wall  of  masonry, 
composed  of  uncemented  blocks,  be* 
yond  which  is  a  fosse,  more  than  900 
feet  in  circumference.  The  hill  la 
literally  filled  with  tombs,  which  are 
excavated  over  each  other  in  three 
tiers,  like  the  floors  of  a  house,  while 
the  tombs  in  each  tier  are  arranged 
like  groups  or  streeta  of  houses.  Some 
of  the  tombs  are  painted,  some  have 
roofs  carved,  with  beams  and  rafrers^ 
and  many  have  rock-hewn  couches  for 
the  dead.  On  the  lower  tier  on  the 
south  side,  approached  by  an  oblong 
vestibule,  is  a  circular  cluunber  2.5  feet 
in  diameter,  supported  by  a  high  cir- 
cular column  in  the  centre;  in  this 
chamber  some  beautiful  vases  were 
discovered,  and  from  its  north  side 
mysterious  labyrinthine  passages  com- 
municate with  a  more  numerous  group 
of  square  tombs  on  the  west  side  of 
the  hill.  These  passages  are  just 
large  enough  to  allow  a  man  to  enter 
on  all  fours;  sometimes  they  wind 
like  a  circle,  at  others  they  throw  off 
branches  which  terminate  in  a  ca/  dSf 
toe;  their  level  is  throughout  irre- 
gular. On  the  second  tier,  there  are 
several  groups  of  tombs  both  square 
and  circular,  in  two  of  which  are  pas- 
sages like  those  on  the  tier  below.  In 
one  of  the  chambers  of  this  tier  the 
celebrated  vase  of  the  Judgment  of 
Paris,  now  in  the  Casuccini  museum, 
was  discovered,  together  with  several 
fragmenta  of  gold  and  jewellery.  On 
the  third  tier  there  are  similar  groups 
of  tombs,  among  which  some  jewellery 
and  broken  vases  were  found.  This 
tomb  has  been  illustrated  by  the 
learning  and  research  of  Dr.  BrauOt 
whose  work,  entitled  "  Laberinto  di 
Porsena,  comparato  coi  Sepolcri  di 
Poggio  Gajclla,'*  contains  plans  and 
drawings  of  ita  remarkable  features 
from  the  pencil  of  Mr.  Gruner.  Den- 
nises Etruria  contains  plan  of  the 
labyrinths  copied  from  »  at  work.— 
2.  Deponto  dd  Sovrano,  called  also 
**  del  Gran  Duca,"  2  miles  N.E.  of  the 
town,  diacovet^^  \tv  \%\%  vci  «i  i^<a^^^ 
the  \\\\\  a\x>\e  \.Vi«\ek«.  \X.  S&  ^  i>3M|S^ 
chamber  wUVi  an  oTchadwsIl  ^'^  «^^^ 

1^ 


ttf 


BotjTX  23.  -^CHiusr. — GttAultuK 


Ceect.  R 


imsoiiry.  It  vbs  enlercd  by  fulding 
Aoon.  ik  irarcrtioc,  of  which  only  one 
remninB.  Tlie  benches  irhieh.  mt- 
rouud  tbe  chamber  Htill  retiin  wiCh- 
otU  oluuige  eight  cinerary  urns,  to- 
scribed  with  the  name  uf  Ibc  Pmis 
family. — 3.  Dtpotito  diiia  Seiima.  dis- 
covered in  1346,  in  the  hiU  called  La 
PellegriDB,  1  mUe  N.K.  of  Lhe  town. 
It  i*  a  tomb  of  fuur  cbainbers,  the 
central  of  which  is  painted  with  rtpte- 
sentations  of  f^ioet  peifonaed  in  Ihe 
presence  of  a  female,  whoK  high  rank 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fret  that  she 
is  seated  beneath  an  umbrella,  the 
only  Liiown  ciampte  of  its  oecutience 
in  Etruscan  potntinga.  The  gumes 
include  Ehariot  races,  wrcfttling,  box- 
figures  which  compose  the  different 
a  dwarf,  and  ainonkey  (Scimia) — the 


which  are  decorated  with  painting] 
now  gradually  periBhing  from  age 
Those  in  the  first  chamber  rcpresen: 
fnnernl  games,  horse-races,  dsncuig 
tumbling,  and  a  funeral  lymposiun 


Those  ii 


i  bytl 


athi 


paila  lie'  Dei,  a  miles  N.W.  of  the 
town,  on  the  bill  called  Foggio  al 
Mdto,  discovered  in  182G  on  ihe  pro- 
perty of  Signor  Dei,  from  whom  of 
oourae  it  derives  its  name.  It  is 
decorated  inlemally  with  paintings 
representing  a  funeral  banquet  and 
liineral  games,  resembling  in  s3  re- 
markable a  manner  the  paintings  of 
tbe  Dep.  del  Colle  Casuccini,  Ihat 
there  can  he  no  doubt  that  they  were 
hy  the  same  hand.  The 
h'os  several  sarcophagi  and 
taienla,  and  a  bilingual  In- 
iptiaa  —  S.  Oeponto  ddlt  Moiuiche, 


so  called  bei-^ause  it  was  found  in  the 
grounds  of  the  convent  of  San  Stefaoo, 
\\  mile  N.W.  of  the  town.  It  is  a 
single  vaulted  chamber,  renurkable  as 
retaining,  .without  change,  nearly  all 
the  monuments  wliiob  it  eonUlned 
when  first  discovered.  There  are  8 
cinerary  urns  and  S  sarcophagi,  most 

though  there  is  one  inscribed  with 
that  of  Cauli  ViriHA,  or  Cnles  Vi- 
benna,  a  name  which  carries  us  back 
to  the  days  of  Romulus.— The  TmiAt 
of  Vu  Earls  C/iriitiaiu  at  Chiusi  will 
interi^t  travellers  who  have  not  seen 
those  of  Rome  and  Naples,  from 
which,  boweier,  they  present  no  paints 
of  material  difference. 

The  Cathedral  has  been  evidently 
constructed  with  the  ruined  fia^enta 
of  ancient  edifices.  Its  naie  is  divided 
IVom  the.  side  aisles  by  eighteen  an*' 


.iquB 

St.  Musliol 


B    of    I 


ing  the  ashes  o£ 
n  the  baildingiB. 
lUt  of  an  aiunent 
column.  It)  tbe.public  promenade  [iu« 
mcrous  fragments  of  Koman  as  well. 
as  Etruscan  workmanship  occur,  and 
in  one  of  the  oratories  of  the  Confra- 
temitii  ddla  Mi^cricordia  ii  a  beau- 
liiully  worked  column  of  Atrican 
marble,  which  must  have  belonged  to 
some  Btiuctiirc  of  imposing  magni- 
tude. These  scattered  fragments'  ea< 
plain  tile  digappearauee  of  the-aoeient 
tnoouments  of  Clusium;  its  templu^ 
like  those  of  Rome,  were  no  doubt 
ilestroyed  to  build  tlie  churches  and 
other  edifices  of  the  modem  city- 

Trarellers  desirous  of  proceeding 
further  into  Tuscany  may  go  from 
Chiu^  to  MonCepulciano,  anotlier 
£trusean  town  of  high  antiquity. 
The  shortest  road  is  that  which  leads 
uotthwards  by  Borgo  Veoehio  (16 
mites).  It  passes  the  lake  whieb  Iibbib 
of  Chiavo  dl  Montepulciono, 


!■,« 


»  distant  from  the 


Papal 


of  the  middle  «ges»  6  miles  distant 
from  Chiiui,  is  an  iDteresting  point 
fer  the  geologist  end  the  antiquary. 
It  is  situated  <m  an  olive-clad  height 
at  the  hase  of  the  lofty  dolomite  moun- 
tain of  the  same  name,  which  rises 
above  the  valley  watered  by  the  As- 
traney  to  an  eUvation  of  5750  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  ravines 
in  the  neighbourhood  exhibit  fine  seo- 
tioBs  of  the  tertiary  marine  formations. 
Cetona  has  a  small  inn  kept  by  Ales- 
aandro  Davidi.  The  antiquarian  interest 
of  the  place  is  derived  from  the  choice 
eoikction  of  Etruscan  antiquities  dis- 
eovcred  in  the  neighbourhood  by  the 
Gavaliere  Terroei,  who  liberally  allows 
it  to  be  seen  by  travellers.  It  con- 
taiaa  numerous  vases,  and  two  cine- 
rary urns  of  singular  beauty  and  per- 
ftetion,  which  have  been  illustrated  by 
Mieali  Sarteamh  4  miles  distant,  is 
aitimted  at  the  extremity  of  an  ele- 
vated plateau  above  the  Val  di  Chiana, 
•nd  with  its  mediaeval  walls  presents  a 
Ttry  picturesque  object  from  all  parts 
of  the  valley.  It  has  a  very  tolerable 
inn  kept  by  Signora  Serafina.  Sarteano 
b  interesting  to  the  antiquary  as  pos- 
aeising  three  private  collections  of 
Etruscan  antiquities.  The  first,  that 
of  Cavaliere  Bargagli,  containing 
merely  cinerary  urns,  the  second  that 
of  Dr.  Borselli  consisting  of  vases  and 
pottery,  and  the  third,  that  of  Signor 
Xungbini  containing  vases  and  cinerary 
urns.  All  these  objects  were  found 
in  the  Etruscan  necropolis  on  the 
tableland  west  of  Sarteano,  where  a 
vast  number  of  Etruscan  tombs  have 
been  opened  since  1825,  and  from 
which  the  unrivalled  collection  of 
black  vases  in  the  Florence  Gallery 
was  obtuned.  The  tombs  generally 
consist  of  single  chambers,  with  a 
central  pillar,  and  a  ledge  running 
round  the  unpainted  walls,  like  those 
in  the  necropolis  of  Volterra.  The 
whole  range  of  hills  which  bound  the 
valley  on  the  west,  from  Cetona  to 
Montepulcisno,  abound  with  Etruscan 
toaibs.  Ckkmciano,  7  miles  from 
Smrteaao,  mm  one  of  the  most  popular 
betkiotp-pleeee  of  Tuaoeny :  its  mine* 


CHIU8I  TO   MONTEPULCIAKO.      175 


ral  waters  and  hot  springs  are  in  high 
repute  in  rheumatic  and  paralytic 
affections,  and  during  the  season  it  is 
much  frequented  by  visitors.  It  has  two 
Inna  kept  by  Faenzi  and  SporazzinL 

The  position  of  Moniepulciano  4 
miles  distant  from  Chianciano,  sur- 
rounded by  mediae\-al  walls,  and  perched 
upon  at  lofty  height  is  highly  pic- 
turesque. The  fine  church  of  the 
Madonna  di  San  Biagio,  built  from  the 
designs  of  Sangallo,  is  considered  one 
of  his  most  successful  works,  and 
several  private  palaces  are  by  the  same 
great  architect.  The  Palazzo  Buccelli 
contains  several  Etruscan  antiquities 
found  in  the  neighbourhood,  which 
confirm  the  opinion  that  the  town 
occupies  the  site  of  an  Etruscan  city. 
The  £Ei9ade  of  this  palace  has  embedded 
in  it  several  has  reliefr,  and  numerous 
fragments  of  Etruscan  and  Latin  in- 
scriptions. The  wine  called  the  Manna 
of  M(mtepulciano  is  iamous  througl^ 
out  Italy,  and  is  called  by  Redi  '*d*ogni 
vino  il  re." 

A  road  from  Montepulciano  through 
Pienza  (9  miles)  leads  into  the  Siena 
road  at  San  Quirico  (6  miles),  as  no- 
ticed in  Route  26;  or  the  traveller 
may  cross  to  Arezzo  by  the  Val  di 
Chiana,  which  would  give  him  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  the  hydraulic 
works  which  have  rendered  this  val- 
ley, under  the  direction  of  the  Tuscan 
government,  the  most  fertile  district 
in  Europe.  To  Camuscia  is  22  miles, 
and  thence  to  Arezzo,  18  more.  The 
road  from  Chiusi  to  Siena  by  Asciano 
is  about  6  miles  shorter  than  that  by 
San  Quirico,  and  is  on  the  whole  bet- 
ter and  more  level.  It  passes  through 
the  Val  di  Chiana  to  Torrita  16  miles, 
where  there  is  a  poor  osteria,  and  no 
works  of  Fra  Giacomo  di  Torrita,  a 
iamous  painter  and  mosaicist  of  the 
14th  century.  Thence  to  Montepul- 
ciano is  9  miles,  to  San  Quirico  by 
Pienza  15  miles,  and  to  Camuscia  the 
like  distance.  Three  miles  further  the 
road  leaves  Asinalunga  about  a  mile 
to  the  TigV\t,  atvdi  «ac«<ci!\'9^^  \\vfvti%  \ 
miles,  from  1\i&nv\V£^.  \\.  ^«tw  v»-- 
verses  a  ftne  Coreafc  cR  "^^i^i  %sA«^.V^ 

1^ 


ITC 


aODTE  24 RIETI   TO  HOME. 


[Sect.  I. 


miles  from   Torritt  reaches  ABclaiia.  I      The  Telturlni  of  Rietl  keep  up  >  ' 
■n  uninlerestliig  liltic  tovn  viih  Ino   constant  commuoicatiDn  with  [he  m 
poor  inna,  of  which  the  Aquilii  Nen  pita],  ind  b;  their  regular  jaumej 

iDoat  toierabla  sleeping  plice  between  of  n  diligenec 
Chiusi  and  Siena.  Leaving  Awiano, ,  After  leaving  Rieti  the  toad  ci 
there  is  a  severe  hill  of  2  miles,  after  the  Turnno,  aiid  proceeds  up  the  rich 
which  the  traveller  must  traverse  b  '  plain  watered  hy  that  itrcan 
long  range  of  bleak  cU;  bills,  and  ,  duall;  ascending  the  hills,  whii 
alter  deseending  into  a  more  fertile  cross  the  eouncry  from  north  tusouth. 
bottom,  must  again  speedily  mount  to  !  Tlio  descent  on  the  Romsn 
^^ena,  distant  from  Asciano  16  miles, ,  eitremely  steep, 

id  flrom  Chiusi  49  miles.  |      9  to.  Poggio  San  Lorenio,  a  miser- 

i  The  road  tVom  Cilta  dells  Fiei 


rugi*  is  in  every  respect  beautiful 

lusesfijrmany  miles  through  grove 

p  oaks,  and  before  it  descends  into  111 

d  by  the  Nestorc  and  th 

Lmands  some  fine  peeps  of 

e  Lake  of  Chiusi.     About  ~      *" 

fiom  C.  della  Picve  !t  passes 
he  Tavernelle,  a  clean  Uiile  village 
with  a  tolerable  inn.  Beyond  it  is  the 
inllage  of  Mongiovino.  picturesquely 
atuated  near  the  road.  The  wlioh 
distriet  is  highly  cultivated,  and  i: 
mora  like  a  plantation  tlian  a  public 
mad.  Vineyards  and  ma  I  berry -tree 
aic  profusely  scattered  over  the  plains 
the  distant  hills  are  ctuthed  with  oaks 
and  the  general  appearance  of  the  land. 
scape  will  suggest  many  recallecllom 

I  of  borne  to  the  English  traveller. 
SB  m.  PiHooii  (  Route  27 >, 
I" 

than  that  from  Rietj  U>  Rome  through 

Terni.      Although    by  no   mei 

agreeable  as  [hat  route,  it  is  in 

Sag  la  those  who  are  disposed 

amine  the  ancient  cities  which 

its  immedi. 


ROUTE  24. 


0  Po^io  San  Lorcnso  9 
,    PoggiotoOsteriadiCorresel!} 
Ost  di  Corrcse  to  Home         14 


1  very  good  condili 


arc  two  others,  called  the  Osteria  della 
Scalclta  and  Ost.  del  Olmo,  near  v 
are  severs!  ancient  tombs.  Frum  tlia 
Ost.  della  Scaletta  to  the  Ost.  di 
rola  the  road  skirts  the  base  of  MnitS 
Carpignano,  opposite  to  which  it 

NtToIa,  a  email  village  of  less 
400  souls,  placed  in  a  commanding  and 
picturesque  position  amar.g  the  n 
tains,  with  an  old  feudal  castle  of  the 
Borberini  family,  who  frequently  make 
it  their  residence  during  the  summer 
months.  It  is  supposed  bymanyanr 
quaries  to  mark  the  site  of  Regillnc  . 
the  place  from  which  A ppius  Claudius 
migrated  to  Rome.  The  Ottcria  di 
Nerola,  a  poor  tavern,  is  ertoneouslj' 
supposed  tu  be  the  half-way  house.  A 
siiort  distance  beyond  it  the  roadcroBRi 
the  Lignessa,  and  soon  atlerwanls  tba 
ancient  Via  Komeutana  falls  into  it 

Further  on  is  the  ruined  church  of 
S.  Pietrv,  supposed  to  have  been  tb* 
cathedral  of  a  bishopric  in  the  i 
ages  of  (he  church.  A  mile  froi 
on  the  right  of  the  road,  is  the  village 
of  Comu,  on  tlie  flanks  of  tlie  hilU 
which  mark  tbeuteof  thcbmona 
of  Cures,  the  capital  of  the  Sab 
long  anterior  to  the  foundation  of 
Rome.  It  was  (bunded  by  the  Um- 
hrians,  who  were  expelled  from  Reate 
by  the  Felasgi,  and  assumed  the  name 
of  SabioBs  on  settling  here.      The  war 


een  Tatl 


g  of  Cur 


cnlty. 


Romulus  after  the  rape  of  the  Sabini 

-gins,  the  bmoua  compact  by  whicl 

the  inhabitants  of  Cures  were  removet 

Rome  w\ietc  Tatvus  AMieA  tUe 

■one  wlrt^   BJimvius,  an4  >i\tt  -SCi. 


I^igpal  Statet.l^\       .route  24.  —  rieti  to  rome. 


177 


more  interesting  history  of  Numa,  will 
no  doubt  suggest  themselves  to  every 
trayeller.  On  one  of  the  hills  occupied 
by  the  ancient  city  is  the  church  of  the 
Madonna  dcU*  Arci,  founded,  it  is  be- 
lieved, by  the  monks  of  the  celebrated 
monastery  of  Farfa,  which  lies  beyond 
the  hills  to  the  north-easL  The  church 
is  surrounded  by  a  square  enclosure 
whose  walls  are  built  of  massive  blocks, 
which  would  seem  to  indicate  the  an- 
cient citadel.  Tliere  are  no  further 
traces  of  walls,  which  may  be  regarded 
as  another  corroboration  of  the  posi- 
tion, for  we  have  the  authority  of 
Dionysius  that  it^was  not  walled.  The 
history  of  Tatius  and  of  Numa  are 
frequently  noticed  by  the  Roman 
pocts:-^ 

**  Nee  procul  hinc  Romam,  et  raptas  sine  more 

Sabinas 
CoBMMU  caven,  magnls  Circensibus  actis, 
Addiderat,  tubitoque   novum  consurgere 

beUum 
Roflunlldls,  Tatioque  seni,  Curibusque  se- 

veria."  Virg.  JEn.  viii.  . 

The  neighbourhood  of  Correse  has 
been  very  little  explored :  a  path  leads 
down  the  valley  from  the  ruins  to  the 
OsL  di  Correse.  The  road  twice 
crosses  the  little  torrent  Linguessa 
before  it  reaches  the  tavern. 

19  m.  Otteria  di  Correse,  a  poor 
solitary  tavern,  close  to  the  angle 
where  the  road  to  Terni  through 
Cantalupo  branches  off.  The  vet- 
turini  who  spend  a  night  on  the  road 
generally  make  this  their  half-way 
bouse. 

On  the  left  of  the  road  is  the  lofty 
range  of  hills  which  bound  the  Cam- 
pagna  on  the  north-east,  conspicuous 
among  which  is  the  Monte  Gcnaro, 
upwards  of  4000  feet  above  the  plain, 
which  may  be  ascended  from  Palom- 
bara  on  this  side.  Tivoli,  however, 
oflers  more  facilities  for  making  the 
necessary  arrangements  for  the  ascent, 
and  is  the  place  from  which  travellers 
usually  set  out  Monte  Genaro  is 
considiered  by  most  antiquaries  to  be 
the  Mons  Lucrctilis  of  Horace. 

The  road  fbJJonv  thelefi  bank  of  the 

TlUter,  Mnd  crotses  many  of  its  tributary 

atreMnu.     After  passing  the  little  ri\er 


Mosso,  east  of  the  Osteria  del  Grillo,  is 
the  village  of  Rimane,  on  the  left  hand} 
where  some  remains,  chiefly  of  reticu- 
lated masonry,  have  been  considered 
to  mark  the  site  of  Eretum,  mentioned 
by  Virgil  as  one  of  the  cities  which 
sent  assistance  to  Turnus.  Sir  W. 
Gell,  however,  prefers  placing  Eretum 
at  Grotta  Marozza,  nearer  Rome.  A 
few  miles  further  on  is  the  town  of 
Monte  Rotondo,  on  a  conspicuous  hill 
of  the  tame  name,  considered  by  Gell 
to  be  the  site  of  the  Alban  colony  of 
Crustumerlum,  well  known  for  its 
capture  by  Romulus,  and  which  the 
older  antiquaries  had  placed  at  Sette 
Bagni  on  the  Allia.  The  present 
town  is  surmounted  by  the  lofty 
tower  of  the  old  feudal  castle  of  the 
Barberini  family,  of  which  it  was 
formerly  a  duchy.  The  country  for 
miles  around  it  abounds  in  plantations 
of  pear-trees,  for  which  Crustumerlum 
is  celebrated  by  the  classic  writer^ 
who  notice  the  remarkable  redness  of 
one  side,  **  ex  parte  rubentia,**  a  pe- 
culiarity which  has  evidently  been  in- 
herited, for  it  distinctly  marks  the 
pears  of  Monte  Rotondo  at  the  present, 
day. 

The  traveller  who  visits  Monte  Ro- 
tondo may  perhaps  be  induced  to  ex- 
tend his  excursion  to  the  little  village 
of  La  Mentana,  two  miles  south, 
which  contains  a  baronial  mansion  of 
the  Borghese  family.  It  occupies  the 
site  of  ancient  Nomentum,  but  there 
are  no  remains  now  accessible  except 
some  marbles  and  inscriptions.  Four 
miles  from  it  is  the  village  of  St, 
Angelo,  marking  the  site  of  Cornicu- 
lum ;  it  is  placed  on  the  summit  of 
a  steep  and  almost  inaccessible  hill^ 
commanding  a  magnificent  prospect 
extending  ftom  Soracte  to  the  very 
verge  of  the  Campagna.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  Servius  Tullius,  and  one 
of  the  cities  in  the  Montcs  Comiculanl 
captured  by  Tarquinius  Priscus.  Con- 
siderable remains  of  it^  ancient  walls 
still  exist:  they  exhibit  \.\\^  '^>ai\^<tX 
Cyclopeaii  coivBlivkcyAot^^  ^vbXvcv^v^^^ 
from  the  Pe\a%^\c  \j^  V\v^  ««i«J\  «xov«fc 
which  ftW  u^  tWvT  \\\ttxs<\cts.    ^VwM 

1  5 


ROD- 


'A BIETl    TO    I 


M 

3  is  B  conapicuom  abject  trom 
these  hills. 

The  liigli  load,  after  leai-ing  Monte 
Itotnndo  oil  (he  Iril,  proctiedS  by  the 

Fonte  di  Papa,  and  below 

Sla.  Colomba  to  Mardgliai 
beloutlinp  to  Prince  Borghua 
on  sn  eminence  abore  the  road.      On 
the  rigbt  hand,  nearly  opp< 


[Sect.  I. 


hill  of 


I  fount 


a.   deep    cutting, 

iippo^ed    by    Sir 

W.  Geil   to  be  an 

ncient  road.      On 

the  bill  above  it  a 

Vccchia    are  aoinu 

tiUas. 

As  the  road  approkches  the  Allia, 
the  talley  at  Mnlpasso,  supposed  to  be 
a  necropolis  of  t'ldenc,  comes  in  view. 
Beyond  the  Allia,  and  between  the 
uilb  and  fifth  milestones  from  Ruine, 
the  road  psBKs  through  the  ancient 
Sabine  city  of  Fidiha,  the  ally  of 
Veil,  and  so  celebrated  for  its  re- 
pealed wars  with    Rome,  that    Livy 

quenily  captured  than  altactBd."  Tlie 
most  prominent  objects  which  no' 
mark  its  site  are  the  CaUd  GiaUlto 
on  the  right,  and  the  I^lla  Spaibi 
theleftof  tberoad.  The  Villa  Spa 
Muds  OB  a  projecting  tongue  of  land, 
■uppossd  to  be  the  site  of  the  villa  of 
Riaon,  where  Nero  destroyed  himself, 
and  *berB  >Ietiua,  tl 
iMdsr  of  the  Alban  f 
station  to  witness  the 
TulIuB  Hostilius  and 
Teii  and  Fidens.      At  the  bridge  are 

are  probably  sepulchral.     Cnslel  Giu- 
bileo  is  snjipoeed  to  occupy  the  site  ol 
the  ancient  arx  or  citadel  of  Fidi 
bdow  it  towards  the  river  somei 
aieavationa  are  seen. 

"  Making  the  circuit  of  Ci 
l»leo,  you  are  led  round  till 
the  road,  where  it  issues  from  th 
hollow  at  the  northern  angle  of  th 
city.  Besides  the  tombs  which  ai 
Amid  on  both  sides  of  tlie  southern 
orj/ of  ilie  oity, 


have  been  taken  by  a  mine ;  and 
is  cave  might  be  supposed  to  indi- 
te the  spot,  being  subscriuently  en- 


ilaled  t: 


if  Fidenie,  where 
loftiest,  and  that  It  vaa 
carried  into  the  An.  The  chief  ne- 
cropolis of  Fidetue  was  probably  on 
the  bei^ls  to  the  north-east,  called 
Foggio.de'  Selle  Bagni,  where  are  n 
number  of  caves  j  and  here,  also,  are 
traces  of  quarries,  probably  those  of 
the  soft  rock  for  which  Fidenio  was 
famed  in  ancient  times.  The  walls  of 
Fidena?  have  utterly  disappeared;  not 
one  stone  remains  on  another,  and  the 
broken  pottery  and  the  tombs  around 
are  the  sole  evidences  of  Its  eiistencft 
Yet,  at  Kihby  observes,  '  few  ancient 
cities,  of  which  few  or  no  vestiges  re- 
main, have  had  the  good  fiirtune  to 
have  their  sites  so  well  delermined  ai 
Fidena:."  Its  distance  of  40  stadia,  or 
5  miles  from  Rome,  mentioned  by 
DionysiuB,  and  its  position  relative  to 
Veil,  to  the  Tiber,  and  to  the  con- 
Ruenoe  of  the  Anio  with  that  stream, 
as  set  fbrlh  by  Livy,  leave  not  • 
doubt  of  its  true  site." — Dmlu's. 

The  plain  traversed  by  (be  road 
was  the  scene  of  manf  a  bloody  fight 
between  the  Romans  and  Etriuoana 
subsequent  to  the  kingly  period;  and 
Hannibal  is  supposed  to  hare  pitched 


Capua. 
The 


Salon 


s  the  Anio  by  the 


jia  in  the  EtrutKon 

with  travertine   t? 

I  century.      This  ve- 

r   nerable   •structure  was    partially  de- 

royed    by    the    French    during  the 

ilel  Glu-    siege  operations  of  1849,  which  is  the 

on  meet    more  to  be  regretted  as  it  seems  old 

■om    the    enough  to   have    been    tha   ideotiod 

1   bridge  on  which  Manlius  Torquatus 

?    conquered  the  Gaulish  giant.      Near 

I   this   bridge  is  an  inmlaled   hill,  on 

_,, ,    whose    summit  stood  the  celebrated 

aing&r  into  the  rock,  and  branch- I  Sabinis  tjitj  ot  Kutkibhk,  Bne  of  the 
"■'g-  oB'  into  sereral  chambers  and!  three  eiftes  wXiow  im^ten  \iBWitB* 
pasaages.       Fidelia,  like  Veii,   is  9aiA\  Ibe  ttvMbeta  rfttie  UomwvTMft.  - 


J^gml  l^atu.']  nouxs  £5 at-lsohobh  to  civita 


B  It  maema  tiui  tbe  high  p<nnt  near. 
Ht  flie  nmd  wu  tha  citwlel  of  An- 
Inmut;  tnd  tbe  descent  of  two  rouJs 
now  Maroely  perccptibJo,  onetovflrds  . 
Kd«iH>  uid  the  bridge,  and  tbe  otbci  i 
towards  Rome,mu'k>thenteofagBtc.  ' 
Ob  tbe  other  ode  of  the  knoll  of  tbe  ' 
citodcl  »•  ■  MTe,  with  gigns  of  utificial 
•Vltiiig  in  tbe  Toek,  being  a  sepulchrt: 
Wtder  tbe  walU  Thete  was  evidently 
■  fit*  aba  in  tbe  boUow  which  rata 
fttna  tbe  platlbmi  of  the  city  to  the 
Jonetionortbe  Anieneandtbe  Tiber, 
wben  tfaera  ia  now  a  little  Ulet. 
FMlbabI;  there  wu  another  gale  to- 
ward* the  meadows,  on  the  aide  of  the 
Aequa  Acetoia,and  anatber  opposite ; 
and  from  thete  two  gate*,  wbieh  the 
nature  of  the  loil  points  out,  one  re 
iniaN  baTo  run  up  a  tbIIg;  tending 
the  direction  ofthe  original  Palatiura-of 
Boma;  and  theothermust  have  passed 
bj  a  ferry  towBrda  Veil,  up  the  valley 
aaar  the  preMtnt  Tor  di  Quinto.  ll 
I*  not  uninteresting  to  obseiie  how  n 
Wty,  destroyed  at  a  period  previoua  to 
what  is  Qow  tailed  that  of  authentic 
bistary,  should,  without  eyen  one 
atone  remaining,  preserve  indications 
of  it*  Ibrtoer  existence.  From  the 
height  of  Anlemna  is  a  fine  view  nS 
tbefieldof  battle  between  tha  Romans 
Mud  the  Fidenates,  whence  Tullus 
Hostilius  despatched  M.  Horatius  tu 
destroy  the  city  of  Alb*  Longs.  Tlie 
Istbmu*  where  tbe  two  roads  tram 
Falatium  and  Veil  met  unlies  with 
the  eitf  a  higher  eminence,  which  may 
have  been  another  cilulel.  The  beauty 
of  tbe  situation  is  sucb  that  it  is  . 
possible  it  should  not  have  been 
Iceted  as  the  site  of  a  villa  in 
mc«  of  Borne."— C«K 
Ponle  Salaio  the  r 
uKt  in  a  straight  lini 
ll  it  eaten  by  the  l'< 
Befarv  retching  the  gate,  it 
^iita  lb*  grooadM  ofthe  Villa  Albani 
H  BL  SoMM  (Roatv  a?.). 


Leghorn  to  Ceeina  -         -         -     24 

Cecina  to  San  Vinccnno  •  -  IT 
San  Vinceniio  to  Follonioa  -  18 
Follonica  to  L*  Potass*  -  •     15 

La  Potassa  to  Grosaeto    -        -15 
Grosseto  to  Orbetello      -         -     30 
OrbeteUo  to  Montalto     -        -    S4 
Montalto  to  Cometo        -         -     12 
Coineto  to  CitiU  Vecchia         -  _13 
167 
This  is  *  new  aud  excellent  toad 
along  the  coaat  of  Tuscany,  recently 
constructed  by  the  grand  ducal  go- 
vernment as  a  part  of  their  eitensive 
operations  in  iheMaremma,  and  event- 
ually to  be  succeeded  by  a  railroad  as 
far  as  Grosselo.    The  route,  howerer, 
,  ought  not  to  be  attempted  between  the 
beginning  of  Jane  and  the  end  of 
i  October,  duringwhlcb  period  tbe  nta- 
<  laiia  compels  even  the   re^dents  to 
lesert  the  coast.      The  distances  and 
itations,  as  given  above,  must  at  pr»- 
lent  be  considered  provisional,  as  the 
Dule  is  still   imperreet  and  very  iii- 
idequately  supplied  with  post  boiaea 
md  inbs,  although  there  is  a  diligence 
hrec  times  a  week  from  L^orn  to 
Piombino  and  Grosseto.      To  those, 
therefore,  who  desiu  to  traverse  it  in 
the  shortest  space,  the  following  itine- 
rary may  be  useful,  as  it  avoids  Fol- 
lonica and  Orbetello,  both  of  which 
lie  a  little  out  ofthe  direct  road. 

I  Miles,  hn.  m. 
Leghorn  to  Cecina  -  20—3  5 
Cecina  to  Le  Caldane  •  21  S  55 
Le  Caldane  to  La  Sociela  40     5     10 


jrofseto     to    Montalto  "1 
(including  3  ferries)    J 


MonUlto  tu  Corn 


163  as 


To  guard  against  possible  error  in 
these  distances  w«  msj  \\eteiX<)^e  'Cm*, 
there  arc  irLi^eMAoeft  &\\  \^«  'wb.'^  S.v»s. 
Leghota  to  G'toMeW3,»Ti4»^v&SiOTE 
[  Montdlo  to  CWiii*  XwaK^,  •*>»  *■■" 


t  there  ■ 


ITiesetti 


niles  froi 


180     ROUTS  85  a. — leohokh  to  CITITA  ^ 


niBrkiiifr  Tas«n,  *nd  the  Istler    Ro. 

Montallo,  the  distsncei  «n  ont;  be 
conaidered  nn  ■pproiimntion  to  the 
truth.  Before  Btartiiig  from  Leghorn 
the  trSTcllcr  will  do  irel]  to  take  pro- 
well  auured  that  the  inns  arc  better 
orfuibed  thnnthey  verein  1845.  In 
Ihnt  jear  there  was  Karcely  (inything 
to  be  obtained  for  man  or  beast  ei- 
cept  at  Grosseto  and  Orbctello ;  at 
msoy  places  there  was  no  brciul,  at 
wnie  DO  eggs,  and  at  most  no  milk. 
The  bcdi  alio  were  very  bad  and  the 
route  generally  was  not  to  be  lecom- 
mended  for  ladies.  Even  for  horses 
nothing  was  to  be  obtained  but  btan 
and  beans,  oals  being  either  inscccs- 
tiblo  or  »  scarce  that  the  landlorUs 
would  not  spare  them  to  atrangen. 

The  road  leaves  Leghorn  by  the 
Porta  di  Mareoima,  crosses  the  Hio 
Magglore,  and  then  proceeds  o>eC 
rather  long  hut  gentle  hills  recalling, 
on  ■  small  scale,  the  scenery  of  the 
Corniche.  The  first  of  these  hilts  is 
covered  with  villas  -,  but  those  which 
follow  gradually  become  bare  of  every 
thing  except  heatb,  myrtle,  arbutus, 
and  broom,  which,  with  the  red  soil 
peeping  through  here  and  there,  have 
a  very  picturesque  effecL  Near  the 
IStb  milestone  is  a  neat  looking  Lo- 
canda  called  the  Vaslisliaiallo.  One 
mile  beyond  it,  the  ro»d  entois  the 
plain,  and  soon  afterwards  crosses  the 
river  Rne  by  a  good  bridge.  Near 
the  90th  milestone  it  reaches  Cectno, 

bcre  joined  by  the  road  Irom  Pisa  (2B 
m.  distant)  and  by  tbat  trom  Volterra 
(distant  34  m.),  the  latter  ascending 
the  Valley  of  the  Cecina.      At  (his 
point  the  tnilestoncs  take  up  the  dis- 
tance from  Pisa,  so  that  the  traveller 
m  ust  henceforth  deduct  S  miles  from 
the  distances  sUted  on  the  stones,  which 
will  give  very  nearly  the  distances  from 
X-eghotn. 
Si  At  CtciHa  there  are  two  inns, 
L'Europa  and  the  Albctgo  di   Colk 
MMezzmio,    the  latter  tolerably  clean 
'"O  moderate Ibr  aueb  aceorataoAi  ' 


[Sect.  T. 

asitaRbrds.  This  is  aDinetimes  made 
the  Brtt  sleeping  place  out  of  Leg- 
horn, though,  with  good  horaea,  it  is 
possible  to  push  on  another  stage  to 

IT  Sao  Vinceniio.  where  beds  can 

also  be  obtained.      San  Viiicenxio  is 

the  moat  convenient  point  from  which 

the   travelln  can   visit  the  niins  of 

3FULOSU,  the  naval  araenat  of  Etro- 

1,  llie  great  mart  of  her  commei 

iL  the  powerful  city  which   Virgil 

presents  as  sending  GOO  warriara  to 

list  ^nea*.      As  it  was  ruined  in 

if  Strabo,  it  is  not  surpriung 


o,from 


>  little 


1  road  ;  and  fror 
isible  to  proceed  in  a 
nbino,  6  miles  furtbra 
ins,  and  from  Piombino 
through  the  sandy  tract  of  pine  foreit 
called  tlie  Tombolo  to  FoUonisa,  rS 
nlles  distant :  in  wet  weather,  bow' 
!ver,  (he  road  through  the  Tombolo  ia 
lotpraclicahleforvehiclcs.  Populonia 
is  datitiguiihed  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance by  its  picturesque  feudal  castle, 
with  maohicolated  batllementa  and 
turrets  belonging  to  the  Desideij  fii- 
mily.  Of  the  ancient  city  the  vrolli 
'  1   ore  traceable  fbr 

■  half  on  the  sum. 


I  much  mure  irregular 
I   Eiru 


sonry  a 

walla  in  places  a  polygonal  appear* 
ancc.  The  blacks  vary  from  1  to  T 
feet  in  length.  Within  the  walls  there 
are  six  vaults,  supposed  by  sonte  to 
be  the  remains  of  an  amphitheatre,  ■ 
caasalo  representing  fishes,  and  some 

lew  tombs  are  found  in  the  slt^ics  of 
the  hill ;  and  in  a  dense  wood,  half  a 
mile  Bouth  of  the  walla,  are  aome  cir- 
cular vaults  in  the  sandstone  eliffii 
called  "  Le  Buche  dclle  Fule ;  "  tbe 
Detis  oE  VoK  Fairies.    On  (he  hiU  eart 

of  wbtcti,  cbWbA  "  Ijo  Gioiwr  "■«* 


JPlBfti 8iiUeiJ}MouTE2Siu^i^MiQmoBiK  to  civita  vbccbia.  181 


opMwd  in  1840b  hot  tbey  ecmtained 
BOthing  of  great  twIvm,  and  had  evi- 
dtntly  been  rifled  in  ancient  times. 
Pktmbina,  6  miles  distant,  though  the 
capital  of  a  principality,  is  a  miserable 
town  of  4000  souls,  including  the 
flmall  ffarrisoo  in  its  citadeL  It  is 
aituated  on  a  peninsula,  which  shelters 
•  small  "harbour,  from  which  small  ves- 
sels keep  up  a  communication  with 
£1Imi  on  stated  days.  The  distance 
to  Portofemuo  ia  8  miles.  If  the 
traveller,  who  does  not  turn  off*  the 
nad  to  Populonia  and  Fiombino, 
should  have  slept  at  Cecina,  he  will 
probably  make  8,  Vincenzio  his  half- 
wav  resting-place  on  the  second  day, 
and  sleep  at  FoUonica.  If,  however, 
he  does  not  wish  to  turn  off  to  the 
latter  place,  he  will  find,  before  reach- 
ing the  49th  milestone,  the  Locanda 
.  dell'  Alummiere,  a  small  and  very 
miserable  single  house,  2  miles  from 
CSsmpiglia  and  Le  Caldane,  the 
**  Aquas  Calidas  ad  Vetulonios"  of 
Pliny,  which  still  retains  its  hot 
baths,  as  its  name  imports.  This  lo- 
eanda  has  S  small  closets,  called  bed- 
rooms, but  the  supplies  both  for  man 
and  horse  are  wretched,  and  the 
charges  exorbitant.  CampigliOf  with 
its  picturesque  ruined  castle,  though 
lying  off  the  road,  is  not  unworthy 
of  a  visit  if  the  traveller  have  time  at 
his  disposal.  It  is  a  town  of  2000 
souls,  and  has  a  very  decent  locanda, 
kept  by  Giovanni  Dini.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Campiglia  the  older  an- 
tiquaries placed  the  site  of  Vetulonia, 
chiefly  on  the  authority  of  Leandro 
Albert,  who  described  extensive  ruins 
as  existing  in  a  dense  wood  in  this 
locality.  Tliese  ruins,  however,  have 
never  been  seen  by  any  subsequent 
geographer  or  antiquary,  and  Alberti*8 
account  is  now  believed  to  be  un- 
worthy of  any  credit.  There  are  no 
remains  of  antiquity  at  Campiglia, 
though  some  Etruscan  tombs  and 
Homan  ruins  have  been  found  in  its 
neighbourhood;  and  the  hill  above 
the  town  is  called  Campiglia  Vecchia. 
Utm  riew  from  thmt  hill  ia  one  of  the 
Jofltr  ia  the  whole  diatriet  of  the  Ma- 


remma,  extending  from  the  island  of 
Gorgona  on  the  north  to  that  of  the 
Giglio  on  the  south,  and  embracing 
in  its  seaward  range  the  islands  of 
Corsica,  Capraja,  Elba,  Fianosa,  and 
Monte  Cristo,  while  the  land  scene  is 
a  panorama  of  the  most  varied  and 
delightful  kind.  Near  the  53rd  mile* 
stone  the  road  crosses  the  river  Comia 
by  a  good  bridge  of  brick  and  stoni^ 
and  for  a  considerable  distance  passes 
through  the  dense  pine  forest  called 
II  Tombolo,  abounding  with  thick 
cover  of  tali  heath,  cork  trees,  myrtle, 
arbutus,  and  broom,  among  which  the 
wild  boar,  buffalo,  and  roebuck  find  a 
shelter.  Near  the  60th  milestone^  a 
road  on  the  right  branches  off  to 

18  Follonica,  an  industrious  little 
village  with  iron  fiictories,  and  a  small 
port,  deserted  always  in  the  malaria 
season ;  it  is  the  last  station  on  this  route 
upon  Uie  coast,  which  travellers  often 
make  the  second  sleeping  place  out  of 
Leghorn ;  the  inn  is  much  more  com- 
fortable than  the  roadside  Alummiere 
which  we  have  just  mentioned.  Leav* 
ing  Follonica  by  a  road  leading  to 
Massa  Maritima  we  leave  tlie  coasts 
and  soon  re-enter  the  high  road 
which  crosses  it  at  right  angles,  and 
commands  a  view  of  Massa  perched 
upon  a  height  to  the  left.  Sfasta  b 
an  episcopal  town  of  3000  souls,  erro- 
neously supposed  by  the  older  anti- 
quaries to  occupy  the  site  of  Vetu- 
lonia; but  in  spite  of  its  imposing 
position  amidst  some  charming 
scenery,  it  is  a  miserable  place,  with 
an  apology  for  an  inn,  under  the  title 
of  Locanda  del  Sole.  The  cathedral, 
which  dates  from  the  13th  century, 
has  three  tiers  oi  arcades  in  its  fiifade^ 
and  is  the  only  object  of  interest  in 
the  town.  The  view  from  the  hill, 
however,  is  so  magnificent  that  it  al- 
most repays  a  visit,  except  in  the 
summer  heats,  when  Massa  suffers 
severely  from  malaria.  The  road  be- 
yond the  branch  to  Massa  traverses  a 
long  barren  valley,  with  some  clear- 
ances mote  ox  \eaa  ^i^.'Htxycft^^  %so^ 
,  about  the  69th  mXiiiiXunft  t^wSm*  ^ 
1 5  La  ¥oUaaa»  %  nt<tvc\«\\«3»»^ 


ROUTE  25  w. — i^oHOBir  TO  civiTA  vBCCHiA.   [Sect.  r. 


tocaada,  wheic  some  TflftcsbmenU  mty 
b*  obtuned.  About  5  miles  further, 
lying  B  little  olf  the  roBii  on  tlie  left 
hMid,  Mid  (herefbre  easily  pssud  with- 
out notice,  is  the  Loconda  called  "  II 
Gnm  Ltipo."  Colotma,  perched  upon 
a  wooded  hill  on  the  right,  is  supposed 

hatde  of  Telamon, 


routed  jl 


It  is 


•till  retain  some  fragment  of  polyRanal 
walls,  and  some  other  remaina  of 
Roman   times.      At    the    T7i1i    mile- 

■nd  sickly  moras!!,  called  the  Lago 
di  Castiglionc,  the  Lacus  Prellus  of 
Cicero,  which  the  government  sre  gra- 
dually  filling  up  by  means  of  the  riier 
deposits,  on  the  plan  described  at  p^ 
_KM.  and  242,  Theroad  turns  clue  N, 
n-a  little  way,  but  soon  strikes  across 
'»  plain  to  the  £,,  passing  the  river 
a  by  a  wooden  bridge  on  briDk 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Bnina 
e  port  of  Castlglione  deila 
^Bcqa,  busy  with  its  anchovy  fishery, 
■Dd  its  trade  in  timber  and  ult,  the 
tatter  of  which  ia  imported  liom  Elba. 
The  fortress  commands  in  eitensife 
™w  of  the  coast.  Near  the  80lh 
milestone,  lying  off  the  road  on  the 
right,  is  s  locanda  called  "  La  So- 
uet^"  where  indiffiirent  refreshment 
may  be  obldned.  A  drive  of  9  miles 
•rer  a  dreary  flat  brings  the  traveller  to 
15  Gbossito,  the  capital  uf  the 
Maremma,  a  regularly  fortified  town, 
the  walls  of  which  form  a  pentag<Hi, 
with  brict  bastions  and  two  gates.  It 
u  an  episcopal  town  of  SOOO  souls, 
and  possesses  both  a  calhedial  and  a 
theatre.  After  enteriog  the  gate,  a 
Mreet  on  the  left  hand  leads  to  the 
inn  ■"  L-Aquiln,"  kept  by  the  Vedova 
Falandri,  which  is  clean  and  comfotl- 
able,  with  good  promise  of  becoming 
more  so  when  this  road  is  better 
known.  This  is  usually  the  third 
sleeping-place  from  Leghorn,  There 
is  a  road  from  Grosscto  to  Siena  50 
fl7i/es  distant,  by  Batignano,  Pi^anico 
foa  tbe  Oinbtone,  the  ancient  Um- 
^■^^■dJ  Casale. 
^■paEmisaniig-  Groweto  tbe  classical 


tourist  may  pay  a  visit  to  the  ruins  oi 
tbemostancicntoityofitHieUie.  Mid- 
way between  Grosseto  and  P^anico, 
and  about  4  miles  from   the  for 


sulphur 


the  Bagni  di  Rosetle,  where  guides 
the  ruin.4  may  be  obtained,  llie  path- 
way leads  along  the  side  of  the  liill  of 
Moscona,  wliich  is  covered  with  the 
ruins  of  a  circular  fortress  of  the  Mid- 
dle Ages,  witli  large  aublerraneao 
vaults  of  apparently  a  much  earlier 
period.  Two  miles  beyond  it  is  the 
isokited  bill  on  which  we  may  still 
trace,  Ibr  a  ciRuit  of  two  miles,  the 
stupendous  walls  of  Rusells,  cele- 
brated tor  its  antiquity  even  by  tbe 
ttoman  writers,  and  so  powerful  b4 
to  have  been  one  of  the  IS  cities  of 
tlie  EtriiBcaa  League.  The  site  has 
been  utterly  deserted  since  the  middle 
of  the  12th  century,  when  its  ancient 
bishopric  wa'!  transferred  to  Croaseto, 
During  the  seven  centuries  which  have 
since  elapsed,  the  place  has  beconie 
a  perfect  wilderness  overgrown  with 
dense  thickets  of  underwood,  through 
which,  in  parts,  it  is  quite  impossible 
to  penetrate.  Many  parts  of  the  walls 
are  unspproachable,  and  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  area  within  ihem  appears 
■9  if  it  would  never  again  be  trodden 
by  the  foot  of  man.  Tbe  walls,  where- 
ever  we  can  approach  them,  are  of 
exceeding  interest  j  in  some  portions 
of  their  circuit  they  present  tbe  usual 
horliontal  and  rectangular  charaotei 
of  Etrntcan  masonry;  but  on  the 
northern  and  eastern  sides,  they  are 
formed  of  enoTDioua  masses,  piled  to- 
gether in  the  primitive  style  of  Pe- 
Isagic  architecture,  and  in  some  places 
resembliog  the  rudest  specimens  of 
Cyclopean.  Some  of  these  blocks  are 
from  <i  to  S  &et  high,  and  irom  T  to 
IS  feet  lung.      In  some  places  there 

larly  built,  with  smaller  blocks  of 
rectangular  masonry.  Several  gates 
c  to  be  traced,  and  at  the  S.E. 
igle  is  a  triple  square  of  masonry, 
suppoaeil  by  Micall  to  have  been  the 
Arx.  A.  mroilK  tiiio,  wvl^y  ■•la.-o.VwA. 
apartnteata  dE  Bjant»a.'woiV,^iaa\MKB. 


Kya/'iSSftite;]Bot7Ts  ^SiL-^LUQBonvf  to  citita  vxcchia.  183 


dftwrih^d  as  an  amphitheatre.  All 
tiaee  of  the  Etnuoan  neeropolis  is 
loat  amidst  the  dense  woods  which 
eover  tbd  nte,  and  the  only  tomb  now- 
known  in  the  neighbourhood  is  a 
t^nare  ehaniber  corered  with  slabs  of 
stone,  and  bearing  undoubted  marks 
of  high  antiquity. 

The  milestones  end  at  Orosseto, 
and  we  do  not  meet  with  thiem  again 
until  we  reach  Cometo.  Tlie  dis*' 
tinoe  from-  Grosseto  to  Oibetello  is 
said  to  be  SO  miles.  There  are  3 
ftrries  to  be  passed ;  the  first  and  the 
worst,  7  miles  distant,  is  orer  the 
Ombrone ;  the  second,  14  miles  fur« 
ther,  is  over  the  Osa ;  and  the  third, 
4  miles  ftirther,  is  orer  the  Albegna. 
The  boats  at  these  ferries  are  very 
bad,  and  none  of  them  will  take  a 
oarriase  without  remoTing  the  leaders. 
3  pauls  is  the  tariff  in  each  of  them 
Ibr  any  kind  of  carriage. 

Beyond  the  Ombron^  and  after 
passing  the  quarries  of  Albarese,  the 
road  traverses  a  wooded  valley  bounded 
towards  the  sea  by  a  range  of  hills, 
celebrated  among  the  sportsmen  of 
Cantral  Italy,  as  the  principal  hunt- 
ing ground  of  the  wild  boar.  A 
road-side  heanda  called  CoUecchio  is 
much  frequented  by  sportsmen  dur- 
ing the  hunting  season.  Between 
Collecchio  and  the  sea  is  a  ruined 
castle  belonging  to  the  Marsigli 
fiunily  of  Siena,  the  name  of  which 
stii!  celebrates  the  **  Bella  Marsigli," 
whose  beauty  induced  some  Turkish 
cruisers  to  carry  her  off  to  Constan- 
tinople, where  she  became  Sultana. 

At  the  opposite  extremity  of  the 
marsh,  distant  2  miles  from  the  high 
road,  is  the  miserable  and  sickly  vil- 
lage of  TWomofM,  the  ancient  Tela- 
Mov,  where  Marius  landed  on  his  re- 
turn from  Africa,  and  where  the  Ilo- 
mans  defeated  the  Oauls,  a.  u.  c.  529. 
There  is  little  to  detain  the  traveller 
in  this  place;  no  Etruscan  masonry 
is  to  be  seen ;  but  the  stones  are  co- 
vered with  fragments  of  ruios,  the  re- 
mains apparent]/  of  Roman  villas; 
aad  mt  niamonaeeio,  in  the  opposite 
a^hofthebmjr,  aretome  hot  springs, 


which  are  supposed  to  be  those  msn- 
iioned  by  Pliny  as  existing  in  iha: 
neighbourhood  of  Vetulonia,  the  site 
of  which  has  recently  been  discovered 
-in  this  neighbourhood.  The  position' 
of  this  long-lost  city,  on  an  insulated 
hill  about  6  miles  distant  from  the 
coast,  renders  it  more  than  probable 
that  Telaraon  was  its  port,  just  as  Gra* 
vkcsB  was  the  port  d-  Tarquinii,  and 
Pyrgos  that  of  Cere.  To  reach  the 
site  of  Vetulonia  from  the  present 
road,  we  must  either  take  the  bridle 
path  which  strikes  off  from  the  high 
road  towards  the  left^  before  we  reach 
the  Osa,  and  carries  us  across  that 
river,  the  Sena,  and  the  Argello  to 
Magliano,  or  we  must  strike  off  by 
the  new  carriage  road,  which  connects 
Magliano  with  the  salt  works  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Albegna. 

We  cross  the  Osa,  the  ancient  Ossa, 
by  the  ferry  already  mentioned.  This 
is  21  miles  from  Grosseto.  The  re- 
mains of  the  Roman  bridge,  by  which 
the  Via  Aurelia  was  carried  over  the 
river,  are  still  visible  in  some  vast 
masses  of  masonry  lying  in  the  stream. 
4  miles  fiirther,  we  cross  the  Albegna, 
the  Albinia  of  the  Itineraries. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Albegna,  are 
the  Saline  or  salt  works,  from  which 
the  grand  ducal  government  in  1842 
ponstructed  a  high  road  to  Magliano, 
a  dirty  village  of  300  souls ;  the  ruins 
of  whose  mediaeval  castle  form  a  pic- 
turesque and  striking  object  as  we 
approach  it.  Magliano  lies  about  8 
iniles  from  the  high  road,  but  as  it  is 
destitute  of  accommodation  for  the 
traveller,  it  must  be  visited  «a  route, 
either  to  Grosseto  or  Orbetello,  un- 
less indeed  the  roadside  locanda  of 
Collecchio  be  made  the  head  quarters 
for  this  excursion.  During  the  opera- 
tions for  the  new  road,  l^gnor  Pas- 
quinelli,  the  engineer,  in  exploring  the 
district  for  materials  for  his  founda- 
tions, discovered  beneath  the  surfeoe 
the  walls  of  an  ancient  city,  which 
supplied  him  with  the  stones  neces- 
sary for  hii  pnt^^ose.  T^^mVa^- 
stroy  ed  as  aoon  aa  iW^  w«t«  «\.cwi«sifi^ 
but  BB  tkM  q^amVvVf  \^^  x««^v»^  'w^ 


^■'*MS 


ti      ROUTS  25  a.  — LEOHORlf   TO   CIVITA    VBCCHIA.     f  ScCt.  I. 


•Dnsideiable,  he  va>  compelled  to  I 
'  IwG  Ibe  vbole  circuit  of  the  walls. 
By  tbese  operationa,  destructiTe 
they  "fere,  Signer  PHsquinelli  brought 
Id  light  >  long-burivil  and  Ibrgotti 
eltj,  which  Mr,  Dennis  has  identLlic 
with  V.TUL0N1*,  one  of  Uie  most  ai 
oimt  Bod  powErfiilcitiegof  the  Etru 
eiui  League.     The  form  of  the  city 
tmed  by  Signor  Pasquinelli,  WBS  (hiLt 
of  an   irregular  squnre,  rather  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  length, 
and  two  thirdi  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
the  whole  circuit  of  the  walls  being 
npwards  of  four  milea.    1'he  blocks  of 
ftone  of  which  the  walls  were  built, 
were  found  in  many  placet  oTOrti 
and   mingled    with    fused  metal 
burnt  matter,  aa  if  the  city  had  l)ccn 
deElroyed  by  some  violent  catastrojihe. 
The  blocks,  however,   bad  been  put 
together  without  cement  in  the  horl- 
Mnlal  manner;  and  though  generally 
of  comparatively  amall  size,  there  were 

il  brODies  and  earthen 
were  dug  up,  which  sufficiently 
iTcd  the  Etruscan  character  of  the 
lite;  and  beyond  the  walla  some  tu- 
muli, encircled  with  masonry  at  their 
base^  were  discovered  and  destroyed 
duTing  the  progress  of  the  road.  On 
some  of  the  neighbouring  heights  se- 
veral painted  tombs  had  been  opened 
by  various  explorers  long  before  the 

and  there  is  no  doubt  that  much  more 
would   bo  brought  to  light  by  judi- 

As  wc  approach  Orbetello,  and  in- 
deed for  some  mites  along  the  road 
between    the    Osa  and    Albegna,  we 
command  very  striking  views  of  the 
noble  promontory  of  Monte  Argen- 
tario,  the  Mons  Argentarins    of  the 
ancients,  witli   its  double  peak,  one 
of  which  is  crowned  by  the  Passionist 
convent  of  the   Riciro.      Within  the 
northern  aim  uf  this  headland  is  the 
£>Miffed  port  of  Sail  Stefano,  to  which 
M  road  leads   from  (he    Uocca  d'  AU 
begaa,  along  one  of  the  lliree  necks  of 
««jrf  IV  "hich  Monte  Argcntar 


united  to  the  mainland.     Within  the 

the  fortified  harbour  of  Fort  'Ercole, 
the  Portus  Hereulis  of  the  ancients. 
This  and  all  the  other  small  parts  on 

tunny  jlisberies,    and    many  of   the 

are  used  to  watch  the  shoals  during 
the  fishing  aeason.  Immediately  at 
the  back  of  Monte  Argentario,  and 
therefore  between  it  and  the  high  road 
which  we  are  now  traversing,  Isjhe 
great  salt  lake  or  lagoon,  which  fills 
the  Butrooiidin]  ''       '    * 


a  other 


night  by  the  harpoon  and  li 


30  m 


aught  St 
hlB. 

no  miles 

ifT  the  road,  is  a  strongly  fortified  town 
of  3000  souls,  built  on  the  long  a]id 
sandy  tongue  of  land  which  here  pro- 
jects  into  the  lake,  and  the  extreme 
point  of  which  has  been  connected 
recently  with  Monle  Argentario,  by 
an  artificial  causeway.  There  are  two 
Una  here,  the  Loeanda  dell'  Usaeni, 
and  the  Chiave  d'Oro,  both  capable  of 
improvement.  One  of  them  is  usually 
made  the  fourth  sleeping  place  from 
Leghorn.  The  fortifications  of  Or- 
betello, on  the  land  side,  were  built 
chiefly  by  the  Spaniards,  in  the  16th 
and  ITth  centuries.  The  sea  wall, 
which  protects  it  on  the  side  of  the 
lagoon,  rests  upon  aluiiendous  maasei 
of  ancient  masonry,  whose  poIygonaL 
blocka,  put  together  without  cement, 
bespeak  at  once  tlieii  Pelasgic  cha- 
racter. On  the  sandy  isthmus,  be- 
tween the  glacis  or  the  «  Spalti  "  and 
the  mainland,  several  Etruscan  tombs 
in  a  state  of  ruin  have  been  discovered, 
from  which  sarcophagi,  vases,  and 
bronze  articles  have  been  obtained. 
It  is  evident,  therefore,  that  although 
the  founders  of  the  ancient  settlement 
were  PcLisgic,  the  site  was  suhse' 
quently  appropriated  by  the  Etrus- 
cans ;  but  neither  the  name  of  the 
that  of  the  Etruscan  city 
has  come  dawn  to  us. 

NottttNelletffeou\4\eaveOA«fti\\a 


Flapal  8taitt.2 


innt  to  Amgedtmiot  the  aite  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Cosa,  the  Cosae  of 
A^rgtl,  who  mentions  it  among  the 
Etruscan  cities  which  sent  assistance 
to  JEneaa.  It  is  only  five  miles  from 
Orbetdlo,  and  is  situated  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  lofty  isoUted  hill  on  the  sea- 
•hore,  at  the  extremity  of  the  neck  of 
•and  which  separates  the  lake  of  Or- 
betello  from  the  sea.  The  ascent  of 
the  summit  is  about  a  mile  long,  and 
still  trarerses  the  ancient  pavement. 
ThfB  walls  are  more  perfectly  pre- 
tenred  than  those  of  any  other  city  of 
ancient  Italy ;  they  are  about  a  mile 
in  circuit,  and  exhibit  two  distinct 
kinds  of  masonry, — the  upper  courses 
being  horlsontal,  like  those  of  the 
Etruscan  cities  generally;  the  lower 
being  composed  of  stupendous  blocks 
of  polygonal  stones,  fitted  together 
with  the  utmost  nicety  and  without 
cement,  like  those  of  the  Pelasgic  city 
of  Alatri,  which  will  be  described  in 
the  Hand-book  for  Southern  Italy. 
Hie  walls  vary  in  height  from  12 
to  30  feet,  and  in  thickness  from 
5  to  6.  At  intervals  they  are  strength- 
ened by  towers  from  20  to  40  feet 
square ;  1 4  of  which  are  still  traceable, 
no  less  than  11  occurring  in  two* 
sides  of  the  angle  which  faced  the 
sea  and  was  therefore  more  open  to 
attack.  The  external  surface  of  the 
walls,  like  those  of  Alatri  and  Arpino, 
has  been  worked  down  to  a  smooth 
fkcCf  but  the  inner  sur&ce  has  been 
left  in  its  rough  state.  There  are 
three  double  gates,  situated  in  the 
northern,  southern,  and  eastern  walls ; 
the  latter  is  the  most  perfect,  and  ex- 
hibits in  high  perfection  all  the  pe- 
culiarities of  structure  for  which  Cosa 
is  remarkable.  Like  the  great  gate 
of  Arpino,  all  the  gates  of  Cosa  must 
have  been  covered  with  flat  slabs  of 
stone  or  have  had  lintels  of  wood.  In  ! 
the  S.  £.  angle,  the  ground  rises  into  | 
a  small  plateau,  which  must  have 
formed  the  Arx  of  the  city.  On  this 
height  may  be  recognised  three  or 
four  specimens  of  masonry,  of  as  many 
different  periods;  the  lowest  being 
PeUtgic  like  the  city  walla,  the  next 


Etruscan,  the  next  Roman,  and  the 
most  recent  mediaeval.  The  polygonal 
architectureof  Cosa  was  long  consider- 
ed to  be  the  only  example  of  that  style 
within  the  limits  of  ancient  Etruria ; 
and  considerable  controversy  has  been 
carried  on  by  the  Italian  and  German 
archaeologists  in  regard  to  its  antiquity. 
The  Italian  antiquaries,  with  few  ex 
ceptions,  regard  Cosa  as  a  more  recent 
Etruscan  city  than  Cortona,  Volterra, 
Tarquinii,  and  others  in  which  the 
horizontal  style  is  found  in  its  greatest 
purity  ;  and  have  therefore  too  hastily 
concluded,  that  its  polygonal  substruc- 
tions do  not  denote  that  high  an^ 
tiquity  of  which  they  are  the  signs  in 
cities  of  Pelasgic  origin. 

Many  indeed  liave  carried  their 
doubts  so  for  as  to  suggest  that  every 
part  of  Cosa  now  visible  is  referable 
to  Roman  times.  .Speculations  of 
this  kind,  unsupported  by  historical 
focts,  will  have  little  weight  with 
those  who  have  examined  on  the  spot 
the  Pelasgic  fortresses  of  Greece  and 
Latiuro.  From  a  personal  acquaint- 
ance with  those  remuns,  we  are  per- 
suaded, as  we  have  stated  in  one  of 
our  introductory  Chapters,  that  where- 
ever  we  find  polygonal  structures  such 
as  those  of  Cosa,  we  have  the  work  of 
a  people  fiur  more  ancient  than  the 
Etruscans;  the  work,  in  short,  of  that 
Pelasgic  race  which  formed  so  many 
settlements  in  Central  Italy,  not  only 
in  its  inland  districts,  but  upon  its 
coast.  We  agree,  therefore,  with  those 
antiquaries  who  consider  the  polygonal 
foundations  of  Cosa  as  the  remains  of 
a  Pelasgic  city,  which  was  subse- 
quently colonised  by  the  Etruscans, 
and  afterwards  appropriated  by  the 
Romans.  Hbtory  supplies  us  with 
few  facts  respecting  Cosa  in  Etruscan 
times ;  but  the  terms  in  which  it^  is 
mentioned  by  Pliny,  have  given  rise 
to  the  supposition  that  it  was  the  port 
of  Vulci,  and  that  at  a  later  period  it 
became  the  seat  of  a  Roman  colony, 
planted  there  to  keep  the  neighbour- 
ing Etruscan  cities  In  subvectvou^ 
after  the  iccowd  \nemox«\^«  ww^xa« 
at  the  \ak«  Afadimou. 


ROUTESSa.  —  CITITA   VECCiriA. 


-fSect.  T. 


the  T 


and  S 


Satiunia  is  30  miU 
aKHUJa  the  talley  of  the  Alb^na  by 
Its  Ich  buiki,  and  is  prnctii^Abte  for 
carriage!  as  tar  as  Montemerano, 
whence  a  bridle  path  of  S  miles  lead? 
ua  to  SstumiB.  Another  bridJe  path 
of  10  or  12  miles  across  the  moun- 
tain leads  to  Sovaos  and  Pltigliano ; 
or  if  the  carriage  road  be  preferred, 
on  eicellent  road  of  IT  milei  leads 
from  MDnCemertno  to  Maneiano  and 
Piligliano,  where  Ihe  traveller  may 
obmin  Bccommodation  at  the  Casa 
Bertocei.  On  his  return  the  traveller 
nuy  visit  the  Ponte  della  Badia 
(Vulci),  ToBcanella,  and  Cometo. 
All  these  plaecs,  including  Saturnia 
and  Sorana,  and  the  roads  by  which 
&ey  mty  be  approached,  are  noticed 

Etruscan  Cilie<i,  at  the  close  of  t! 
volmne. 

Leaving  Orbetello  for  Civita  V. 
chin,  we  reach,  at  the  distance  of  15 
miles,  Chiaione,  the  Tuscan  dogant 
a  large  house  with  plenty  of  lOom 
and  beds,  but  no  cauine.  9  miles  fiii 
ther,  along  a  half-formed  road,  be- 
yond the  river  Fioi 

34  m.      Mmitalto. 


bankment  of  massive  masonry  wbieh 

was  doubtless  the  quay  of  the  Etrus- 

port.     Beyond  the  Maria,  on  the 

It,     is    Farta     San    aementing,    a 


e  pric 


*nw«ha^e  for  barriers  here  ii 
heavy;  Mid  doty  l?  levied  on 
and  horses,  unless   the  traveller  lind 
security  in  Rome  for  their  re-eiport- 
ition.      'ITie  Roman  milestones  begii 
here,  and  continue  to  Civita  Vecchin 
The  road,  after  leaving  Montalto,  is 
*Bry  hilly.      Before  we  cross  the  rii 
Marta,  we  pass   on  our  right  bar 
upon  the  coast,  the  site  of  Gravin 
the  ancient  port  of  Tsiquinii,    n< 
marked  only  by  some  blocks  of  tufa 
and  broken  columns,  and  by  a  nug- 
aieeent  areh  14  feet  in  span,  called 
the  PoDtone,  whieh  formed  the  mouth 


IB  of  the 


ity  in  the  winCe 
desolated  by  the 
Mnremma  fever. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  Marta,  the 
road  passes  below  Corneto,  about  half 
way  to  Civita  Vecohia,  but  does  not 
enter  it.  Corneto  is  described  in  out 
Excursions  from  Rome.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  the  branch-road  leading  to  it 
is  a  vretehed  hovel,  called  a  baiting- 
house  !  but  there  is  a  very  tolerable 
inn  at  Corneto  itself.  The  road  from 
this  point  is  in  good  order,  and  about 
midway  between  Corneto  and  Civita 
Vecebia  it  crosses  the  Mignone,  at 
whose  mouth  the  Tower  of  Bertaldo 
or  Sant  'Agostino  marks  the  site  of 
lUpinium.  —  the  scene  of  St.  Angus* 
tine's  reproof  by  the  angel  for  enters 
tuining  doubts  on  the  subject  oF  the 
"* '  'ly,  as  may  be  fbund  recorded  in 
his  Confessions. 

Civif  A  ViccHiA  (/una;  Isole  Bii- 
nnicbe,  or  Orlandi'a  Hotel ;  a  new 
d  excellent  hotel,  but  very  dear. 
otel  de  TEurope,  also  belonging  lo 
rlandi).  At  both  hotels,  travellen 
may  obtain  every  information  respect- 
ing packets,  and  may  engage  hones 

&c,  Civita  Veccbia  is  one  of  the  nu- 
meruua  places  which  steam  navigation 
liBs  raised  from  comparative  insignifi- 
cance A  large  population,  if  not  the 
majority,  of  travellers    land   here  on 

Italy;  and  the  five  lines  of  steamera 
which  regularly  touch  here  on  their 
voyages  between  Marseilles  and  Na. 


rity    1 


could   have  acquired    by  any  other 

As  the  principal  port  of  the  Papal 
Slates  on  Che  Mediterranean,  and  at 
the  modem  ^ot*'  ^  *>«  wi^*>A  Vud£t 
1  Ciyita  "Vew^iw  has  some  can«iwt»i. 


Hgnfl/ iSitalM.}    JKWTJE  25  a.— civiTA  vbcghia. 


187 


intenst-;  a  large  quantity  of  the  ex- 
ports of  the  States  are  brought  here 
fix  diipDHnt,  and  English  Teneb  may 
frequently  be  reeogniBed  in  the  har- 
bour. As  a  proof  of  the  immense  acU 
▼antagce  which  steam  communieation 
hm  eonferrcd  .upon  the  town,  it  may 
be  sufficient  to  mention  that  the  ves- 
sels of  each  of  the  five  lines  of  steamers 
which  runs  between  liiarseille^  Ge- 
noa, Leghorn,  and  Naples,  touch  here 
three  times  a  month  eadi  way,  so  that 
there  are  no  leas  than  thirty  arrivals 
of  steamers  monthly  from  these  ports; 
the  French  government  packets  afford 
additional  fiieilities  by  ex ten^ng. their 
voyages  to  Malta  and  the  Levant. 
These  steamers  have  brought  Rome 
within  a  journey  of  ten  days  from 
London,  and  have  made  CivitaVeo- 
chia  the  central  point  from  which 
travellers  may  calculate  on  a  rapid 
and  certain  conveyance  to  any  part  of 
the  Mediterranean,  The  number  of 
paswngers  landed  here  by  the  steamers 
m  1839  is  said  to  have  amounted  to 
16,000.  This  large  number  may  be 
explained  by  the  great  influx  of  visi- 
tors and  ecclesiastics  who  were  at- 
tracted to  Rome  by  the  canonization 
of  the  five  saints  which  took  place  in 
the  summer  of  that  year. 

Travellers  are  not  allowed  to  land 
until  the  captain  has  exhibited  his 
papers  and  the  passports  have  been 
duly  examined.  A  few  years  ago  this 
arrangement  caused  a  delay  from  8 
A.  X.  until  noon  or  later— a  serious  in- 
cmvenience  to  those  who  were  anxious 
to  reach  Rome  before  dark ;  but  the 
great  increase  of  visitors  has  latterly 
produced  a  relaxation  of  the  rule,  and 
passengers  may  now  land  as  soon 
after  daylight  as  the  captain  has  gone 
through  the  required  forms.  As  soon 
as  the  traveller  lands  he  is  beset  with 
porters  (fcuckini);  he  should  there- 
fore make  his  bargain  before  leaving 
the  steamer.  Two  pauls  for  landing, 
including  a  truck  to  convey  the  lug- 
gage to  the  custom-house,  are  suffi- 
cient. On  leaving  the  town  the  lug- 
gagm  m  »Mmmined  twice  ;  £nt  by  the 
paUct^  and  Moaadlj  by  the  custom- 


house officers,  who  ibr  the  sake  of  an 
extra  fee  insist  on  plumbing  it,  al- 
though another  examination  is  en- 
forced on  entering  Rome.  These  vex- 
atious impediments  give  the  stranger  a 
practical  and  early  acquaintance  with 
the  greatest  drawback  to  travelling  in 
Italy.  The  fee  to  the  police  is  two 
pauls,  and  to  the  custom-house  offices 
two  pauls.  English  travellers  have  also 
to  pay  five  pauls  to  the  English  vice- 
consul  fbr  his  visa  to  the  passport, 
without  which  it  is  said  the  police  will 
not  grant  their  signature.  Finally,  on 
leaving  the  town  a  fee  of  two  or  three 
pauls  is  demanded  at  the  gate.  It  will 
hardly,  therefore,  be  a  matter  of  sur- 
prise that  in  many  instances  the  recol- 
lections of  Civita  Vecchia  are  not  of 
the  most  agreeable  kind. 

The  Portj  with  its  massive  construc- 
tion, is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
works  of  Trajan,  and  as  the  *<  Tra- 
jani  Portus  "  it  is  well  known  by  the 
description  of  the  younger  Pliny.: 
Though  the  moles,  quays,  and  fortress 
which  we  now  see  were  erected  after 
the  destruction  of  the  town  by  the 
Saracens  in  the  9th  century,  their 
foundations  are  easily  recognised  as 
Roman.  Civita  Vecchia  was  made 
a  free  port  by  Clement  XII.  ;  its 
fortress  was  b^un  in  1512  by  Ju- 
lius II.,  from  the  designs  of  Michael 
Angelo,  and  finished  by  Paul  III. 
The  widls  of  the  town  were  built  by 
Urban  VII.  in  1590 ;  but  the  pkce 
IS  quite  incapable  of  defence.  The 
brightness  of  the  ramparts  and  the 
lassaretto,  and  the  massive  architec- 
ture of  the  buildings  around  the  basin, 
give  it  a  striking  appearance  as  we 
approach  it  by  sea ;  but  the  anticipa- 
tions to  which  they  give  rise  are  not 
realised  by  the  town  itself. 

Civita  Vecchia  is  the  capiul  of  the 
smallest  Ddlegationof  the  Papal  States^ 
which  embraces  a  superficial  extent  of 
sixty  square  leagues,  and  a  population 
of  only  19,600  souls,  being  less  than 
that  of  the  isolated  territory  of  Bene- 
vento.  The  po^^WVuvd^  >!aft  XjvaTi^^(- 
self  it  6900.  U  oceMV\«&  ^^  «^N»  ^^  ^^^ 
Roman  MAt\«BMKvt  ^  ewiXvcott^^A* 


BOUTE25a. CIVtTA   VECCHTA   TO  SOME.  ^Sect.f. 


■  I  was  kindlpd.  not  a  murder  wna 


nitled,  ■ 


all  he 


ing   inl- 
ander Du- 


Tiom    which    oircuuulance  the 
Cvlla  Vtcchia,  orllie  old  town, 


■ived.     It  w 


copal  «ee  by  Lea  XII 
diiial  Faoca  was  its  fiisi  oisDop. 
now  united  with  the  more  ■ncieat 
ECGes  of  Porto  and  Sta.  RuGiil 
/iridMUofCivilaVecchiaare  tbelaigeat  I  Pai 
in  tbe  Papal  Slates  1  the;  are  caleu  luted 
to  bold  ISOO  ]>eru>ns.  and  the  number 
in  confinement  is  seldom  much  belo* 
.      Nearly  a  third  of  the 
enlly  confined  there  had 
M  guilty  of        '  ' '  '""' 


iland,  but    puted  to  Gasi 

I  in  S54,|  mas,  who  vicitedhimafewyearssiilcc, 

lante  '  says  that  he  found  in  his  sell  a  Utile 

:  said  I  library,  among  which  he  recognised  a 

apis-   ■'  Telfmoque,"  a   French  and  lulian 

Car-  I  Dictionary,    a  poor  little   edition  of 

Paul  et  Virginie,"  much  worn  and 

<iled  1    lastly,    the     "  Norelle    Mo. 

rail"   of  Soavc,   and  the  " 


'ofCasi 


Thei 


i  otbei 


ly  one  half  for  the 
twenty  yean.     The  most  noto 
mage  in  these  prisons  is  the 
Ga^eroni,  who  has  been  con- 
there  with  twenty  folic 
iwards  of  eighteen  yean. 

ited  hy  travelleiB,  who  ob- 
the  required  permiuion  through 
consul.  He  is  visible  beti 
.  often  and  twelre.  Hi 
tbat  he  committed  thirty  c 
and  protests  against  the  accui 
having  killed  hundreds  as  a  calumn; 
Tet,  in  spite  of  this  conlessioa,  vlsita 
mre  not  wanting  who  eompassiond 
faim,  and  even  make  him  preseats 
money.  He  says  that  the  greatest 
prize  be  ever  took  was  4O00  scudi,  and 
tint  he  paid  the  police 
month  for  information, 
tud  to  have  been  the  soi 
gftepberd  of  one  of  ihe  Re 
■nd  bis  lirEt  exploit  was 

Frinee'i  Tilla,  in  order  to  make  a 

jot  to  his  mistress  of  a  diess,  e 

Bud  bracelet  she  wished  for, 

he  had  killed  the  parish  priest 

had  denied  him  absolution  fo 

4at  peccadillo.      He  then  joined  th< 

;ll-known  band  of  Cucumello,  ani 

the  death  of  that  leader  was  unani 

_j.uiJj' chosen  his  successor.     During! 

arr^iwi^Avn]  Santa  Agatha  to  Fondi,' 

~-  'from  Fondi  to  Saati  Agaiha,  not 


^Krbo  h 

^^Aat  ue 


'ould  not  have  been  m 

■d  in   a  young   ladies'   boarding 

il.      M.  Dumas  ad<ls  tliat  Gaape. 

was  then  engaged  in  trandating 

'lemaque*'  into  Italian,  and  hod 

advanced  to  the  end  of  the  first  volume, 

worse  than  the 

we  are  daily  fa- 

;d   with.       Gasperoni    told   him 


anted  n< 


His  I 


hocco  and  brandy,  which  sufficed  bim. 
He  had  sometimes  taken,  bu 
demanded,  alms. 

Numerous   antiquities   i 
liave  been  f        '  ■     - 


About 


mies  dist 


:i  di  Ferrata,  a, 
mentioned  hy  Pliny  as  the  Aqiu 
TaurL  The  aqueduct  construcled  oi 
the  foundalions  of  that  built  by  Trajan, 
is  a  remarkable  work  by  whiel 
is  conveyed  Irom  the  Migncne 
lance,  it  is  said,  of  twenty-threi 
At  Tol^  fifteen  miles  distant, 
government  alum  works,  fiurmed  by 
the  Camera,  to  which  they  yield  ci 
aiderahle  revenue ;  there  is  a  paoed 
road  from  the  works  to  the  port,  by 
which  the  alum  is  brought  down  for 

Cinila  VecchU  U  Ihe 
nient  point  from  which  tr 


flSiufl  F 


uitted,  D 


Many  however  who  are 
anxious  to  reach  Rome  will  hardly  be 
induced  to  delay  their  journey  tbr  the 
purpose  of  making  a  complete  tour 
thiDUgh  these  interesting  localities; 
and  as  lAiete  ate  tdsh^  tiM<&\«n  who 


Apo/  SiaiesJ]  route  25  ^.— civita  vecchia  to  rome.    189 


it  hat  be«n  oonudered  dMirable  to  give 
■n  aeeount  of  the  tour  under  **  £x- 
eonioiis  fnm  Rome^*'  where  good 
introductioos  may  be  obtained.  Cor- 
neCOk  however,  is  within  an  easy  dis- 
tance of  Ctvita  Vecchia,  and  travellers 
who  are  detained  here  for  a  day  cannot 
aniploy  it  more  pro6tably  than  by  de- 
voting it  to  an  excursion  to  that  town. 
A  eaU9$a  for  one  person  to  go  and 
return  costs  two  scudi.  There  is  a 
snail  gallery  of  Etruscan  antiquities 
in  the  Town  Uall  of  Civita  Vecchia, 
consBsting  of  sarcophagi,  female  heads 
in  painted  stone,  monumental  tablets, 
and  some  Roman  milestones.  There 
is  another  collection  belonging  to 
Signor  Guglielmi,  of  articles  found 
upon  his  own  lands;  and  Signor  Bucci 
has  a  collection  of  bronzes  and  vases 
for  sale. 

ROUTE  25  b. 

civita  vecchia  to  romk. 

The  New  Road. 

Posts. 
CiviU  Vecchia  to  Santa  Severa  -     2 
Santa  Severa  to  Palo 
FAo  to  Castel  di  Guido    - 
Castel  di  Guido  to  Rome  -     2 


:1S 


The  Old  Road. 

Civita  Vecchia  to  Monterone 
Monterone  to  Malagrotta 
Blalagrotta  to  Rome     - 


Posts. 
-     3J 
.     2 

-  n 

6i 


The  post  diligence  leaves  Civita 
Vecchia  at  5  a.m.,  and  arrives  in  Rome 
at  half-past  1 :  the  fare  is  twenty  pauls. 
Another  leaves  about  9,  after  the  ar- 
rival of  the  morning  steamers.  Travel- 
lers who  wish  to  proceed  without  loss 
of  time,  and  to  avoid  sleeping  at  Civita 
Vvcchia,  may  hire  at  the  post  a  covered 
cariiage  for  two  persons,  drawn  by  two 
honet^  fmr  aiaeBcudL  If  four  persons 
unite,  it  mmy  be  done  more  cheaply, 


and  a  carriage  with  four  horses  may 
be  obtained  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five 
pauls  each  person.  In  either  case,  the 
travellers  may  leave  at  any  time  they 
please.  The  arrangements  of  the  re- 
gular post  diligence  allow  persons  to 
secure  a  place  direct  to  Naples  by  the 
recently  established  line  through  Fros« 
inone  and  S.  Gcrmano. 

There  are  two  roads  from  Civita 
Vecchia  to  Rome,  which  we  shall  de- 
scribe separately :  — - 

I;  The  New  Road.  •—This  road 
which  is  the  one  now  generally  fol- 
lowed, was  opened  in  1847.  It  keeps 
more  to  the  coast  than  the  old  one, 
and  is  provided  with  three  post-sta- 
tions. 

2  Santa  Severa,  a  post-station  and 
picturesque  fortress  of  the  middle 
ages,  which  originally  belonged  to 
the  counts  of  Galera,  and  was  held 
in  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  cen- 
turies by  the  Orsini  family,  as  their 
representatives.  It  was  also  at  one 
time  attached  to  the  famous  m<Hia8« 
tery  of  Farfa;  in  the  sixteenth  cen* 
tury  it  passed  to  the  hospital  of  Santo 
Spirito,  and  is  still  one  of  the  vast  pos- 
sessions of  that  opulent  establishment. 
It  occupies  very  nearly  the  site  of 
Pyrgos,  the  "Pyrgi  Veteres "  of  Vir- 
gil, the  port  and  arsenal  of  Caere,  and 
the  head-quarters  of  the  Tyrrhenian 
pirates.  The  name  denotes  ita  Greek 
origin ;  it  is  celebrated  by  Strabo  for 
ita  fine  walls  and  towers,  and  for  ite 
Pelasgic  temple  of  Lucina,  plundered 
by  Dionysius  of  Syracuse.  Many  re- 
mains of  its  ancient  port  still  exist,  and 
massive  polygonal  walls  of  Pelasgic 
masonry,  from  8  to  16  feet  in  thick- 
ness, and  half  a  mile  in  circuit,  still 
.  enclose  the  quadrangular  space  on 
which  the  city  stood. 

An   uninteresting   and  hilly   road 
brings  us  to 

I  1^  2\ilOf  a  small  and  desolate  vil- 
lage on  the  coast,  with  a  fortress  and 
castle  of  the  1 5th  century,  now  belong- 
ing to  Prince  Odescalchi.  It  occupies 
I  the  site  of  the  EttutcMv  c\Vj  c&  K\.- 
Slum,  near  w\i\c\k  'Pqsk^^^  vcv^  Kw\a- 
'ninuthadVvWsA.  TViet^w^xi^iN^sJCvff 


BOUT*  ftt*.^*-opnT»^«cca»A  toiwmb.        f^"^'-'- 


Teinaining  of  the  Pclas^eor  Ktriucan 
aty  1  but  some  entcnsiic  niins  of  a 
Boman  tHU  eiitt  about  a  mile  to  the 

home  is  vtry  miaerable,  but  it  has^ 
plcitlf  of  good-aiied  bed-rooms,  and  : 
li  a  f;ood  rceting-placc  for  thow  vho 
vonld  explore  Cerretri.  The  charges, 
however,  are  very  exorbitant.  After 
Inving  Polo,  the  rout  is  very  indi" 
fcmnt,  trnd  'a  carried  o' 
of  bad  hills. 

1^  Ciutel  di  Guido,  belonging  to 
Dm  Oruni  Aimity,  supposed  to 
tbe  lite  of  Loriom,  celebrated  in  the 
personal  history  of  Antoninus  Piui 
(he  ecene  of  his  early  education  and  of 
bis  death. 

3  Rata. 

II.  Tm  Oi.i>  RoAi>  IVom  Civita 
TeecbU  to  Rome  followed  the  Via 
Auretia  to  within  three  miles  of  the 
W^b  of  Rome.  Many  traces  of  the 
■ocient  pavement  eiisled  prior  to  1  SSI , 
when  it  was  destroyed  to  make  this 
Toedi  which  became  so  bad  in  1 846, 
U  to  render  a  new  line  nece.tssry. 
This  new  road,  as  ffc  have  already 
■tMed,  keeps  more  to  the  coast  than 
the  present  one,  by  which  the  time 
Ocxiupted  in  posting  is  about  7J  hours. 
After  leaving  Civita  Vecchia  the 
present  road  skirts  the  sea-coast  for 
Bereral  miles,  passing  at  the  base  of 
tbe  Monte  Rossi.  The  coast  makes  a 
ludden  bmd  to  the  enat  at  the  Torre 
Chiaruocia, which  marks  the  ^ite  ofthe  | 
Boinan  station  of  Castrum  Novum  on  , 
the  Via  Aurelia,  and  soon  afterwards  I 
passes  Santa  MatimBa,  supposed  to 
be  the  ancient  Punicum.  Beyond  this  | 
U  a  small  stream,  with  some  fine  ruins  , 
of  two  ancient  bridges,  by  which  the 
Aurelian  Way  was  carried  over  It  i  they  | 
consist  of  square  massive  blocks  of  i 
masonry,  and  date,  no  doubt,  firom  the  I 
first  farmation  of  the  road.  About  two  , 
miles  trom  Santa  Marinella,  at  a  spot 
called  Pontone  del  Castrato,  are  some  ' 
reinaiasofpo}ygona\  masonry,  foruiing 
the  foundations  and  vails  of  an  Etrus- ' 
cut  city,  snJ  surrounding  an  acropolis 
I'hieh  baa  been  mislolten  by  Getniui 


antiquaries  for  a  tumulus.  This  lo- 
cality wns  first  eicavated  in  1840  by 
tbe  Duchess  of  Sermoneta,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  ground  ;  and  among  the 
many  interesting  objeoU  which  she 
discovered,  the  most  remarkable  were 
sometombi  formed  of  massive  slabs 
of  rock,  covered  either  with  gable 
roofs  or  with  single  shelving  stone, 
like  tbe  cromlechs  of  Devon  and 
Cornwall,  and  showing,  by  their  rude- 
ness ot  construction,  very  high  an- 
tiquity. The  name  of  this  city  hn 
b^n  wholly  lost ;  but  the  term  "  Car* 
supposed  to  be  a  corruptioti 


of   Cnst 


I,  the 


leighbouring 
i-ascrum  ivovum  already  mentioned. 
About  ail  miles  further  the  road  leaves 
on  the  right  the  fortress  of  SonU 
Severa,  described  in  tbe  preceding 
account  of  the  New  Itoad. 

About  ax  miles  further,  in  cross- 
ing the  plain  lo  Monterone,  we  pass 
the  little  stream  Vaccina,  the  Cierilis 
Amnis  celebrated  by  Virgil  and  Pliny. 
The  town  of  Cemeiri,  the  modem  re- 
presentative of  the  Creek  Ctere  or 
Agylla,  is  seen  on  the  left  band  trom 
many  parts  of  the  toad.  It  is  memoi- 
able  not  only  on  account  of  the  va- 
luable Etruscan  remains  discovered 
i,  but  as  one  of  tbe  most  impor- 

so  great,  that  Pliny  mentions  the 
lings  which  eiisted  there  in  hii 
day  as  being  long  anterior  lo  the 
foundation  of  Rome.  It  is  celebrated 
also  by  Herodotus  and  by  Virgil,  wbo 
describes  it  as  governed  by  Meienliua 
when  jEnens  arrived  in  Italy.  A  more 
detailed  account  of  its  antiquities  will 
be  found  in  tbe  tour  of  the  Etruscan 
cities,  under  "  Bieursions  from  Rome." 
Beyond  tbe  Vaccina  the  road  crosses 


imallst 


called  tl- 


which  is  the  post-station 


3^  m,  MoRterfMe.  This  is  the  only 
place  where  horses  are  changed,  ac- 
cording to  the  recent  regulations  of  litis 
road ;  «ie  tavern  affords  little  or  no  ac- 
commodationi  an4  \TKiiA\Bt*  ^w*™Uy 


INf^  SiatuJ]   ROUTS25^.--CIVITA  VECCHIA   TO   ROME.     191 


llwn  ii  Bofthiiig  now  at  Monterone 
to  (Ictaiii  the  trsTcIler,  ai  the  tumult 
.palled  the  CoUe  Tufiunni,  which  the 
lOKarchw  of  the   Ducheas  of  Ser- 
jponeta,  in  1838,  proved  to  be  sepul^ 
flfandf  have  all  been  redosed.     The 
remit  of  the  first  excavations  of  the 
duchesa  was  conadered  an  event  by 
the  Boman  antiquaries^  as  consider- 
able doubt  existed  in  regard  to  the 
nal  character  of  the  tumuli,  whether 
there  were  natural  or  artificial  mounds. 
In  the  first  opoied,  the  tomb  was  ap- 
proached by  a  long  and  vaulted  pas- 
flige  cut  out  of  the  solid  tufih  and  was 
aupplied  with  shafts  or  wells  in  the 
floor*  ""igiwg  to  other  tombs  on  lower 
levels.     The  furniture  of  this  tomb 
waa  purely  Egyptian  in  character; 
the  vases  were  ornamented  with  the 
]otu%  and  painted  ostrich  eggs  were 
not    wanting,    which,   like  those  of 
Vulei,  were  decorated  with  Egyptian 
emUcms.     In  some  other  tombs  the 
doon  eontracted  towards  the  top  in  the 
Egyptian  style*  like  those  of  the  cavern 
lombe  at  CMtel  d'Asso ;  and  in  others 
of  Etruscan  times  the  walls  exhibited 
the  ordinary  painted  figures  of  leo- 
pards, dolphins,  &e.     All  these  tombs 
are  now  filled  with  earth ;  but,  so  fai 
as  they  were  explored,  they  appeared 
to  have  been  already  plundered  by  the 
Romans.     A  road  leads  from  Mon- 
tcfone  to  the  village  of  Palo,  on  the 
eoast,  which  is  one  of  the  stations  of 
the  New  Road,  and  has  been  already 
described  as  the   nte  of  Alsium,  of 
which  the  Colle  Tufiurini  were  doubt- 
less the  Necropolis. 

After  leaving  Monterone,  several 
small  streams  axe  crossed,  at  Statue, 
Palidoro,  &c. ;  one  of  these,  shortly 
before  the  commenoement  of  the  ascent 


to  Castel  di  Guide,  is  the  Arrons,  the 
natural  outlet  of  the  lake  of  Brao- 
oiano;  it  has  preserved  its  ancient 
bridge  of  two  arches,  built  of  quadri- 
lateral stones,  which  is  worthy  of  ob- 
servation^ The  road  becomes  hilly  as 
it  approaches  Rome.  After  passing 
Botaccbia,  we  reach  the  old  post- 
station  of 

2  m.  Malagrotta,  now  no  longer  sup^ 
plied  with  horses.  We  cross  here  the 
Fossa  d'Acqua  Sona(tbe  6alera),and 
about  three  miles  further  the  little 
stream  of  the  RdagUanella. 

The   Via   AureUa  proceeds   in  a 
straight  line  by  the  grounds  of  the 
Villa  Pamfili  Doria,  but  the  present 
road  branches  off*  to  the  left  soon  after 
passing  the  Maglianella.     The  aque- 
duct called  Acqua  Paola  crosses  the 
road  near  this,  and  Rome  is  entered 
by  the   Porta  Cavalleggieri,  dose  to 
which  the  French  army  sustained  a 
serious    check  in   their  first  attack 
on    Rome  in   1849.      Passports  are 
demanded  here,  and  the  carriage  is 
usually   conducted   to   the    Dogana, 
where  the  luggage  is  again  examined ; 
hut  a  timely  fee  will   often  obviate 
this  inconvenience.     This  is  the  only 
entrance  to  Rome  by  whidi  the  first 
object  which   meets  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  on  passing  through  its  gate  is 
St.  Peter's.     The  stranger  forgets  the 
dulness  of  the  road  as  he  traverses 
the  piazza  of  St  Peter*s  and  recognises 
further  on  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo^ 
and  the  bridge  of  the  same  name,  the 
ancient  Pons  iElius,  by  which  he  crosses 
the  Tiber.     These  well-known  objects 
give  an  interest  to  this  entrance,  al- 
though the  streets  through  which  it 
passes  are  not  otherwise  remarkable. 
1^  m.  RoMK,  described  in  Route  27. 


itovn^a. — rtoRCHCE  to  rohb. 


{Sect.  I 


Fl"r™«  to  CBScUno 
Cnciano  lo  TBT-cnielle       - 
T«Ternelle  to  Piiggiliiiiisi  . 
Poggibonsi  to  Ctetiglionrello 
Cutiglioncello  to  Siena 
Sena  to  Montcrane 
Honteione  to  Buonconvento 
Bu(  - 


Tommeri  to  PodErina 

Fodetina  lo  Rtcotsi  ■ 

Hieorii  to  RiulieDrani 

BadiccAnlto  Ponte  Centlno       -     Ij 

P.  CEntino  to  AcquBpendente    -     I 

Acquapendenle  to  S.  Lorenio      -     0| 


Si.  Lorenio  to  Bolstna 
>  Boliena  to  Moiitefiasci 

iSfonteGsBcone  to  Vitei 
^ferbo  to  L'lmposla 


Posts    S^i 


road :  —  5na  Cniciano, 
La  Campana;  Paggiboati,  Aquila 
Nera;  Sitna,  Aquila  Nera,  Armi 
d-Inghilterra ;  B«nnconvt«to.  Cavallo 
Inglne,  Europa  ;  Saii  Quirico,  Aquila 
Nera;  II  Solej  Ritarsi,  1a  Posia; 
Aufmfendtmtt,  Tre  Carone  d'Oro; 
Sm  Lomia,  Aquila  Nera;  Boliaia, 
Aquila  d'Oro ;  ilfont^auonr,  Aquila 
Nera,  La  Post* ;  Kifn-So,  Ai[u11b  Nera, 
Anbelo ;  Roncijilioie,  Lb  PosU,  Aquila 
Nera ;  ifrnttraii,  Lh  Posla  ;  Baaano, 

This  19  the  shortest  route  from  Flo- 
renre  to  Rome,  but  il  is  less  inlerest- 
Ing  and  presents  fewer  objecli  of  pic- 
lureique  beauty  tbsn  that  tliTough 
Arezio  aod  Perugia.  A  diligence 
performs  tlic  jouniej'  in  Ihirtj-sii 
bours  ;  the  courier's  carriage,  in  which 
planes  may  be  secured  on  Tuesdays 
Mnd  Thunday^  is  still  more  expedi- 
tioua.  The  vctlurini  require  at  least 
Sre  dayi.  and  generally  sii.  With 
poal-horses  it    may    be  done   in  four 


days;  by  starting  early  from  Flo- 
rence, in  order  to  have  aome  houn 
for  seeing  Sena,  and  by  making  Radt- 
eolani  and  Vilerbo  the  sleeping  plaeca 
between  Siena  and  Home,  the  t 
veller  may  reach  Rome  in  good  (i 
on  the  fourth  day.  This  division  of 
the  stages  on  this  route  is  in  perfect 
aocordance  with  the  rapid  mani 
irhich  it  is  usually  travelled ;  i 
^onseqtrenee  of  the  almost  irrepreasible 
lesire  to  reach  Rome — a  feeling  which 
ill  those  who  visit  Italy  for  the  first 
lime  will  readily  appreciate— the  dis- 

generally  regarded  as  a  tract  of  country 
which  cannot  be  too  soon  passed  over. 
Those  tourists,  however,  who  are  real!  j 
interested  in  Italian  art  will  hardly  find 
a  week  too  long  to  devote  to  Siena,  and 
it  will  be  seen  that  other  places  o 
route  are  not  unworthy  of  more 
than  is  commonly  bestowed  upon  them, 
[For  passports,  Sec,  see  Route  27.1 
|Tbe  first  stage  out  of  Florence  being 
?ry  hilly,  an  additional  horse  is  re- 
quired by  the  tariff,  The  country 
between  Florence  and  Siena  is  gene- 
rally welt  cultivated,  and  olive-grounds 
and  vineyards  occur  in  nearly  all  the 
valleys ;  but  the  hills  want  that  broken 
and  precipitous  outline  which  Ibe  eye, 
after  having  been  BCCustomed  to  the 
bolder  scenery  of  the  north,  seems  al- 
most to  require.  Here  they  present 
nothing  but  long  waving  lines  rising 
occasionally  into  obtuse  summits  and 
frequently  covered  with  cypresses  and 
pines!  as  we  advance  further  sooth 
they  lose  more  and  more  the  deG  led 
and  picturesque  forms  which  add  so 
much  to  the  beauty  of  Florence. 

Near  Calluno  the  road  passes  on 
the  right  the  Ctrlnm,  the  celebrated 
Carlhusion  convent,  litualed  on  a  com- 
manding eminence  above  the  bri:;bt 
stream  of  the  Greve,  It  was  founded 
by  the  liimoui  Niccolo  Aem^oli, 
grand  seneschal  of  the  kingdom  of 
Naples,  well  known  by  the  description 
of  Boccaccio.  The  subterranenn 
chapel  contains  the  tomhs  of  Acciajoli, 
I  by  Ovcagni,  vrA  vH  vnne  lAhev  mem- 
\  bers  oE  h'ta  Eanul) ',  1\tM  (A  Cu&mii 


I'iapal  SiaiesJ]   r.  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Certaldo.      19S 


Angelo  Acciajoli  is  by  Donatello  and 
Giuliano  Sangallo.  In  this  convent, 
Pius  VI.  found  a  retreat  during  those 
political  troubles  which  marked  the 
latter  years  of  his  eventful  pontificate : 
be  was  arrested  within  its  walls,  and 
earned  a  prisoner  to  Fiance.  The 
road  crosses  the  Greve  under  Monte 
Buoiri.  On  a  hill  on  the  left  hand,  a 
Aort  distance  beyond  this  point,  is 
the  village  of  L*Impruneta  with  its 
ehnrcb  of  Sta.  Maria,  celebrated  for  a 
miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin,  whose 
ftroe  extends  to  all  parts  of  Tuscany. 
The  country  around  the  village  of 
L'Impruneta  is  of  great  interest  in  a 
geological  point  of  view,  being  com- 
posed of  eruptions  of  serpentine  rocks 
through  the  secondary  limestones ;  the 
well-known  green  marble  called  verde 
di  Impruneta,  is  found  here.  Large 
i^uantities  of  oil  jars,  and  of  the  beau- 
tiful earthen  flower  and  shrub  vases, 
in  such  general  use  in  the  Tuscan 
gardens,  are  principally  manufactured 
m  this  neighbourhood. 

1  San  Casciano  (Inn,  La  Campana. 
A  royal  post  between  this  place  and 
Florence;  an  additional  horse  from 
S.  Casciano  to  Tavernelle).  In  the 
neighbourhood  of  San  Casciano  is  the 
villa  of  Machiavelli,  now  the  property 
of  the  Maffei  family,  and  little  re- 
f^nrded  by  travellers.  In  this  house 
It  is  said  that  he  wrote  *«  The  Prince  " 
and  several  other  works.  On  leaving 
the  town  we  descend  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  Pesa.  Near  the  bridge  another 
road  to  Siena  branches  off,  much 
shorter  than  the  post-road.  It  pro- 
ceeds through  Sambuca  and  Castel- 
lina  almost  in  a  direct  line,  avoiding 
the  curve  to  Poggibonsi.  The  post- 
road  crosses  the  Pesa  and  the  Virginio 
before  it  mounts  to 

1  'iavernclle,  a  post -station.  Be- 
yond Tavernelle,  on  the  right  hand,  is 
the  village  of  Barbcrino  di  Valdelsa, 
firom  which  the  road  descends  into  the 
narrow  valley  watered  by  the  torrent 
called  the  Drove,  which  joins  the  Elsa 
and  the  Stuggia  at  Voggibonsi.  There 
19  M  9/nsU  and  good  inn  at  Barbcrino, 
standing  in  a  beautiful  situation,  i 


1  Poggibonsi  (Inns:  Aquila  Nera 
cheap,  if  you  name  your  own  prices ; 
T-a  Corona;  both  very  tolerable),  a 
considerable  manufacturing  town,  with 
a  palace  belonging  to  the  Grand- 
Duke.  The  high  road  from  Leghorn 
and  Pisa  to  Siena  fells  into  the  pre* 
sent  route  at  this  place.  It  ascends 
the  right  branch  of  the  Elsa,  and 
passes  through  Castel  Fiorentino  and 
Certaldo,  beautifully  situated  above 
the  river,  and  immortalised  by  its  con- 
nexion with  Boccaccio,  who  took  the 
name  of  Certaldese  to  commemorate 
the  origin  of  his  family.  It  would 
carry  us  beyond  the  limits  of  this 
work  to  describe  this  route,  but  CVr- 
ialdo  would  well  repay  a  visit.  Boc- 
caccio spent  the  greater  part  of  his 
life  there  on  his  return  from  Paris, 
and  was  bffled  in  the  church  of  St. 
Michael  and  St.  James,  still  called  the 
Canonica. 

*'  Boccaccio  to  his  parent  earth  bequeathed 
His  dust — and  lies  it  not  her  Great  among, 
"With  many  a  sweet  and  solemn  requiem 

breathed 
O'er  him  who  form'd  the  Tuscan's  siren 

tongue  ? 
That  music  in  itself,  whose  sounds  are  song. 
The  poetry  of  speech  ?   No ;  —  even   his 

tomb, 
Uptom,  must  bear  the  hysna  bigot's  wrong. 
No  more  amidst  the  meaner  dead  find  room. 
Nor  claim  a  passing  sigh,  because  it  told  for 

whom  I  "  Chitde  Harold, 

"  Boccaccio*s  sepulchre,'*  says  M. 
Valery,  "  formerly  stood  in  the  centre 
of  the  church  ;  against  the  wall  close 
by  was  the  epitaph  made  by  himself, 
and  an  additional  one  by  his  illustrious 
friend  Colluccio  Salutati,  chancellor  of 
the  Seigniory  of  Florence.  Thcpodest4 
of  Certaldo,  Lattanzio  Tedaldi,  erected 
a  more  magnificent  monument  to  him, 
in  1503,  on  the  interior  front  of  the 
church,  which  was  honourably  trans- 
ferred to  a  spot  facing  the  pulpit  on 
the  construction  of  an  orchestra.  Boc- 
caccio is  represented  half  length,  hold- 
ing on  his  breast,  with  both  hands,  a 
folio  volume  on  which  is  written  JDe- 
ccaneroH,  a  singular  book  to  be  placed 
just  facing  a  preacher,  and  a  proof  oC 
liberality  on  t\\c  ipicrl  o^  >\v^  <^w%^* 
The  tomb  \\a*  cuprntiiTvc^^  >^cv^  \cvq«X 
melancholy  changes     "^ot  tciat^>5Gv«» 


IS*       R01JTE56. —  fiohencb  t 

fogr  cenluries  it  had  \ieen  the  bonaur 
of  Ccrtulilo,  aiui  had  attracted  many 
iravellen  Id   ilie   Canonira,  when  in 

pretotion  of  the  law  of  Leopold  against 
buTfmgin  cburcbeBi  the bysDa bigots 
or  Ceitaldo,  against  whuui  Cbilde 
Harold  and  his  annolatar  declaim, 
had  nolJiing  to  do  with  il.  The  (lane 
Ilmt  covered  this  tomb  was  broken 
and  thrown  aside  as  ui^eless  in  the 
cloister  adjeuuing.  It  ii  aaid  tlMC 
Boccaccio's  «ku11  and  bones  vere  then 
eihumed,  and  a  copper  or  lead  tube 
containing  suDdiy  parchmenta  of  the 
same  century.  These  precious  frag- 
by  the  reoloi  of  the  church,  who  ten 
years  after  accepted  a  beoeficB  in  the 
upper  Val  d'Arnu.  It  is  stated  by  tra>- 
diiion  thai  they  were  still  Athat  epoch 
an  ottj  eel  of  curiosity  tostrangert.  wht 
went  to  tbc  rector's  bouse  to  see  them. 
It  is  difficult  tu  eiplaio  the  culpable ! 
n^llgencc  that  allowed  the  remains  of 
Boccaccio  to  be  lost,  when  we  consider 
tbo  uncessing  popularity,  at  Cerlaldo, 
of  this  eloquent  admirable  writer,  this 
limner,  so  true,  graceful,  touching, 
profound,  and  mirthful,  the  pertect 
impersonatioii  of  Tuscan  genius." 
Boccaccio's  house,  built  of  brick,  with 
a  small  tower,  was  repaired  In  1SB3  by 
the  Marchioness  Lenioni  Medici,  who 
"  reconstructed  the  staircase,  decorated 
Boccacwo's  chamber  with  bis  portrait, 
a  large  fresco  by  Benvenuti,  and  a 
bookcase  of  his  works.  The  »mall 
windows  ale  of  the  time.  The  furni- 
ture is  the  oldest  that  could  be  found 
at  Ccrtnldo,  with  sonie  imitated  from 
different  pictures  at  that  period.  The 
lirop  aeems  the  most  aulhentio  article 
of  the  whole,  as  it  was  Ibund  in  the 
house,  and  the   hardness  of  the   oil 


E.-^foferhi."  tSfeCtHfr 


From  Fogg 


esting  e 


le  trareller  in 


o  fU, 


and  a 


nquity. 


showc 


well,  • 


cording  to  an  old  tradition,  belonged 
to  Boccaccio.  'Die  stone  which 
covered  bis  grave  for  more  than  four 
penlaries  was  reJig-iouily  oolleolod  by 
Signora  Lenzoai  in  18S6,  and  placed 
fa  this  bouse,  vitb  an  inscription  by 
Sigoor  Giordani.  " 


There  is  a  more  level  but  longer  road 
from  Florence  through  Empoli  and 
Fontedera  (see  p.  204.) :  but  thoae 
who  have  not  visited  Vollerra  by  that 
road  should  on  no  account  lail  to 
devote  a  day  or  two  to  the  eicursion 
from  this  place.  About  three  miles 
from  Poggibonu  h  the  town  of  CoOt, 
prettily  situated  on  h  hill,  and  divided 
into  the  upper  and  lower  town. 
iscelcbraicd  fur  its  paper-mills  worked 
by  the  Elsa,  which  date  ftom  the  in- 

two  mills  at  the  end  of  the  fourteenth 
century  ;  and  Lorenio  Lippi,  said  to 
have  been  the  first  person  who  es 
blished  a  printing-press  in  Italy,  v 
a  native  of  the  town.  The  Cathedral 
contains  a  bronie  statue  of  Christ,  bj 

ef  Bohgna.      The  church  of  S. 

;lno  has  a  Deposition  by  Apostini 
deiia  Bvta,  formerly  attributed  to 
Ghirlaudaio,  and  aDother  line  painting 

subject  by  Cijfali,      "" 
tower  of  Arnolfo  di  Lapo,  who  v 

ibited  by  his  desecndants, 
len  recently  abandoned  a 
healthy  situation. 

Leaving  Colle,  the  winding  and 
hilly  road  crosses  the  torrent  called 
Botdno,  beyond  Le  Grazie 
cends  the  mountains  above  tt 
of  the  Era.  From  this  high  gromid 
lomerous  streams  and  torrents  fiow 
lown  into  the  Ceciua,  which  is 
Mcasionallj  on  the  south. 

VOLTBRBA  ilmt:  L'Unione, 
ilean,  cheap,  and  comfbrtable : 
Corona,  tolerable).  This  is  one  of  the 
nost  interesting  towns  In  Italy,  and 
iravdlers  who  are  desirous  of  investi- 
gating the  remains  of  one  of  the  grand- 
est Etruscan  cities  should  oB  i 
;ount  lo.se  In  opportunity  of  v'  __ 
it.     Vollerra  is  more  easily  accesuble, 


e  of  it 


na^Il«* 


Ptqpal  Siaie^,"]   r.  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Voiterra.       195 


inTestigated  its  antiquities  will  find 
that  they  have  little  to  learn  respect- 
ing the  hahits  and  eustoms  of  ancient 
£truriat  which  may  not  be  acquired 
in  the  museums  <^  the  great  cajntals. 
The  remark  of  Maffei,  that  those  who 
faaTe  not  been  at -Vol  terra  know  no- 
thing of  Etruscan  antiquity,  is  too. 
true  to  be  regarded  as  a  partial  testi- 
mony :  **  Nou  ta  ehe  aia  Etrusca  anti" 
dkUd  figtaroiOy  ehi  non  i  stato  a  Voi- 
ierra,"  The  town  is  situated  on  a 
bfty  and  commanding  eminence, 
c^iped  by  a  tertiary  sandstone  full  of 
marine  shells,  which  rests  upon  a  bed 
of  white  clay  200  or  SOO  feet  thick. 
It  is  surrounded  by  smaller  hills  of 
nmilar  formation,  whose  soft  porous 
soil  is  so  frequently  washed  away  by 
the  rains  and  torrents,  that  the  neigh- 
bouring country  presents  a  singular 
appearance  of  wild  and  sterile  deso- 
lation. The  hill  of  Volterra  is  bounded 
by  the  Era  on  the  north,  and  by  the 
Cecina  on  the  south ;  it  is  said  to  be 
about  1870  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
■ea.  From  almost  all  sides  the  ascent 
to  the  town  is  long  and  gradual.  In 
spite  of  the  dreary  aspect  of  the  coun- 
try, the  view  from  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  and  especially  from  the  citadel,  is 
particularly  striking ;  in  clear  weather 
it  extends  to  Pisa,  and  commands  a 
long  line  of  sea,  including  Corsica  and 
£lba.  The  population  of  the  town  is 
4500. 

Voltanra  nearly  retains  its  ancient 
name  of  Velathri  or  Volaterra?.  Al- 
though less  is  known  of  its  early  his- 
tory than  of  that  of  Cortona,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  it  was  a  city  of  the 
league,  and  one  of  the  most  ancient 
settlements  of  Etruria.  Its  interest 
is  so  entirely  Etruscan,  that  it  would 
almost  appear  out  of  place  to  enter 
into  details  of  its  history  during  the 

*  middle  ages,  when  its  strong  position 
between  the  republics  of  Pisa,  Florence, 
and  Siena,  naturally  made  it  a  place 
of  great  importance  in  the  contests  of 
the  free  cities.  I«ike  many  other  small 
towns  of  central  Italy,  it  was  for  some 
time  Mbh  to  Msaert  its  independence, 

mad  WMB  governed  by  its  own  consuls ; 


but  it  gradually  fell  under  the  power 
of  Florence,  and  from  that  time  its 
history  is  to  be  traced  in  that  of  the 
Florentine  republic. 

The  ancient  walls  are  among  the 
very  finest  specimens  of  Etruscan  ar- 
chitecture; they  are  constructed  in 
horizontal  courses  without  cement^ 
and  are  composed  of  massive  blocks  of 
tertiary  sandstone,  full  of  marine 
shells.  The  greater  part  of  the  walls 
were  ruined  during  the  sieges  of  the 
middle  ages,  particularly  in  the  capture 
of  the  city  by  Federigo  di  Monte- 
feltro  in  1472.  They  arc  supposed, 
from  the  remains  still  visible,  to  have 
been  six  miles  in  circuit,  or  about 
double  the  size  of  those  of  Cortona 
and  Fiesole.  The  most  perfect  frag- 
ments are  seen  outside  the  modem 
gates,  at  the  church  of  the  Menseri 
and  at  Sta.  Chiara,  at  the  distance  of 
about  half  an  hour's  walk  from  the 
inn ;  their  masonry  is  very  irregular, 
though  rectangular  and  horizontal. 
Of  5  detached  ^agments  one  is  40  feet 
in  height,  and  about  14  feet  in  thick- 
ness; the  largest  blocks  being  10  feet 
long  by  3  feet  high.  Two  of  them 
have  two  square  open  sewers,  with 
projecting  sills,  about  10  feet  from 
the  ground.  The  soil  near  them  is 
gradually  wasting  away  by  the  en- 
croachments of  the  ravines,  which 
threaten  to  undermine  the  foundations 
at  no  very  distant  period.  One  of 
the  ancient  gateways  is  still  standing, 
in  a  fine  state  of  preservation.  It  is 
called  the  Porta  aW  Arco,  and  is  a  cir- 
cular double  arch,  nearly  30  feet  thick 
and  21  feet  high,  formed  of  nineteen 
immense  masses,  put  together  without 
cement,  and  beautifully  worked  on  the 
exterior  face.  The  keystone  and  the 
two  pilasters  have  three  colossal  heads 
sculptured  in  the  stone,  which  were 
formerly  supposed  to  be  lions  ;  but  a 
lias-relief  on  one  of  the  cinerary  urns 
in  the  Museum,  which  appears  to  re- 
present this  gate,  shows  that  they 
were  human  heads,  indicating  pro- 
bably the  lut«\aTY  ^^"^^^^i^  ^^  ^^'^  ^^'^^• 
Within  each  ^aVe  IW  t\\awTi*\  Vast 
the  poricuWia  \%  aVvW  N\s\\i\^.     KxvoS\Nftx 


\L  1 


most  remarkable  j 
■  |he  baths.  The  1 
^mggte  of  llie  fortres 
^Hk'  pemiission  of  I 
V^M  entered  onlj  bj 
I        i*kllne  specimen 


ROQTE  is. — >ri.oi(BNCK  TO  ROME. — Votbtra.    [_Sect.t. 

but  the  windows,  na  in  iticffit  of  the 
buiWings  whk'li  lurtoundit,  hue  been 
modernlied.  The  two  lions  autuin- 
ing  the  srms  of  Florence  were  added 
vhen  the  FlorcLitinc  republic  usunied 
Borereignty  of  Volleim,  and  appoioled 
one  nf  its  own  ciliiens  to  be  cnptain 
□ftbe  people.  The  Filuzo  contains 
the  museum  sod  public  library.  The 
MnuHBi  is  one  of  ihc  most  extra- 
ordinory  collections  in  Italy  ;  it  vis 
opened  in  1T3I,  and  is  cliieHy  indebted 
for  itA  treasures  to  the  munificence  of 
MonsigDore  Mario  Guaroaccl,  vho 
bequeathed  his  Etruscan  collectiDOa 
to  the  toirn  in  1761 ;  it  is  full  of 
tomb",  statues,  vases,  coins,  broniei, 
oaters,  eold  ornaments,  mosaics^  &c.| 
The 


196 

gate.  cnllcJ  the  Parla  ill  Diana,  has 
been  much  altered ;  near  it  the  sn- 
cienl  walls  may  be  traced  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  Beyond  this,  about 
half-way  down  the  hill,  is  the  ancient 
Necropolis,  in  Ihe  tombs  of  wliicli 
were  found  Ihe  valuable  objects  now 
ia  the  Itlnseum.  One  tomb  has  been 
preserved  in  its  original  state,  for  the 
sake  of  travellers,  who  should  on   no 

lar  chamber,  IS  feci  in  diameter,  and 
about  6  feet  in  height ;  it  is  supported 
by  a  natural  column  in  the  centre,  and 
isiurroundedbyatripletierofbeucbos, 
on  which  forty  or  fifty  small  'ash- 
chests  or  sarcophagi  are  placed. 

Of  the  other  antiquities,  of  which 
some  ves'iges  are  still  traceable, 


Ihe  baths.  The  Piscina,  outside  the 
of  Ihe  fortress  can  only  he  seen 
^lemussion  of  the  bishop,  and  can 
entered  only  by  a  long  ladder.  It 
fine  specimen  of  Etruscan  archi- 
urp ;  the  arches  are  sustained  by 
BIX  columns,  and  constiucted  vllh 
blacks  of  great\sulidity ;  in  the  vault 
are  some  apertures,  evidently  fur  the 
water-pipes.  The  Thtrraa  near  the 
fuunloin  of  San  Felice  were  dis- 
covered io  ITGD  by  Monsignare  Mario 
Guarnacci  j  they  are  clearly  Roman, 
and  consist  of  two  batba  and  some 
smaller  chambers,  in  which   we  may 

ment  and  marble  bas-reliefs.  One  bath 
is  circular,  the  oilier  square  ;  from  the 
substruations  they  appear  to  have  been 
vapjur-baths.  In  Ihe  Borgo  di  Mon- 
iebradoni  ore  some  remuns  of  an 
Etruscan  liypogeum.  witli  some  cine- 
■y  urns,  &c.       Near  the   Flc 


gate  a 


!   Rami 


amphitheatre ;  but  all  these 

the  Falauo  Pubblieo,  where  every 
thing  discovered  in  the  tombs  ani 
ruins  has  been  carefully  preserved. 

The  Palazio  PvlMico  was  begun  in 

1S08,  aiid  finished  in  1351,  as  recorded 

I'a  aa  inscription  in  tliu  quaint  Latin 

rhyme  oFtlw  period.     The  Gothic  fe. ' 

■ndt,  is   cavtred   n-itii  coata  of  anttti 


collected   in  the   Necropolis. 


ta;    they    are  square, 
to  a  yard  in  length. 


mong  V 


>    Ciecini 


(Ceil 


(Vlave),  Gracchia  (Cracne), 
ana  oiocr  well-known  Etruscan  fami- 
lies, may  be  recognised.  The  bas- 
reliefs  of  these  unis.  independently  of 

instructive  in  afibrding  an  insight  into 
■    mnnners  of   the 


Etruscan 
Egyptiai 


habit 


ivelopmg    t 


,nthc 


;ypt.  In  truth,  there  ia  no  place 
in  Italy  where  the  habits  and  oivili- 
latlon  of  Etruria  can  be  so  n'ell  stu- 
died as  in  this  museum.  The  bas- 
reliefs  on  some  of  the  urns  are  co- 
loured red,  and  one  slili  retains  traces 
of  gilding.  TJiese  sculptures  repre- 
sent various  incidents  of  domestic  life, 
and  a  most  remarkable  series  of  my- 
thological subjects  illustrating  every 
period  of  Ihe  Greek  mythology. 
Among  the  scenes  of  domestic  lift  are 
many  of  a  very  aSecting  character ; 
\  deati\-bei  sebtkh  oie  fcsourite  sub- 


Papal  SteUes."]    n.  26. — Florence  to  rome. —  Volferra.      197 


is  frequently  represented  in  vari-  ' 
Otis  but  touching  forms.      In   some 
casef,  the  soul,  symbolised  by  a  figure 
cm  horseback,  is  represented  setting 
out  on  its  long   journey,    while  a 
child,  the  sister  probably  of  the  de- 
ceased, is  striving  to  detain  it,  and  the 
messenger  of  death  is  hurrying  it  on. 
In  other  examples,  the  soul  on  horse- 
back is  proceeding  on  its  journey  to 
the  other  world  attended  by  Charon 
and  a  good  genius.    On  another  chest 
we  see  the  funeral  car  conveying  the 
body  and  the  mourners  to  the  tomb. 
On  some,  we  see  human  sacrifices,  and 
cm  others,  sacrifices  of  bulls,  asses,  and 
wolves.     Funeral  processions,  trium- 
phal processions,  and  the  solemn  pro- 
cesaons  of  the  judges,  occur  almost 
aide  by  side   with  banquetings,   and 
(rther  fiuniliar  scenes  of  an  Etruscan 
home ;  and  even  the  representation  of 
•  female  school  is  not  wanting.     Boar 
hunts,   bull-fights,  gladiatorial  com- 
bats,  and  horse-races   in   the  circus, 
supply  an  instructive  series  of  illus- 
trations of  Etruscan  sports ;  while  the 
erenta  of  ancient  mythology,  which 
are  here  represented,  include  almost 
every  popular  topic  of  ancient  history 
or  fiible.       Without    particularising 
minute  details,  we  may  mention  the 
following  as  the  principal  subjects  of 
these  sculptures :  —  Uly&ses  and  the 
Syrens,  Ulysses  and  Circe,  the  Rape  of 
Helen,  the  Murder  of  Polites  by  Pyr- 
rhus,  the  Death  of  Fyrrhus  at  Delphi, 
the  Death   of  Clytemnestra,  Orestes 
and  Pylades,  Orestes  and  the  Furies, 
the  Seven  Chiefs  before  Thebes,  (three 
examples,  one  of  which  has  a  repre- 
sentation   of  the   gate   of  Vol  terra,) 
Polynices  and  Etcocles,  Amphiaraus 
and  Eriphyle,  (Edipus  and  the  Sphinx, 
(Edipus   slaying    his    father    Laius, 
Cadmus  and   the    Dragon,    Cadmus 
fighting   the  armed   men   who  have 
sprung  from  the  teeth  of  the  Dragon, 
Perseus   and    Andromeda,  the    Cen- 
taurs and  Lapitha?,  Actaeon  and  the 
Dogs,    Cupid  and  Psyche,   and  the 
Rape  of  Proserpine.     Others  have  re- 
pregetttMtions  of  marine  deitiea,    sea 
hortea,    doJphJnt,    grifSns,    centaurs, 


typhous,  the  sacred  birds  of  divina- 
tion, and  other  well-known  subjects. 
The  only  two  sarcophagi  in  the  col- 
lection are  rather  more  than  five  feet 
long,  and  were  found  in  1760,  in  the 
tomb  of  the  Flavian  family.    The  one 
which  bears  a  male  figure  on  the  lid 
has  on  its  front  a  funeral  procession ; 
the  other,  which  bears  a  female  figure, 
has  two  very  touching  groups  repre- 
senting a  mother  with  her  children 
taking  leave  of  her  husband,  and  the 
same  mother  fondling  her  child  after 
her  bereavement.     The  walls  of  the 
eighth    chamber   are    covered    with 
Etruscan  inscriptions,  and  with  frag- 
ments from   the   Roman  baths.     In 
the  ninth  is  a  portion  of  a  mosaic 
found  in  the  baths  in  1761 ;  and  the 
headless  statue  of  a  fen^le  with  a  child 
in  her  arms,  discovered  by  Maffei  in 
the  amphitheatre  and  supposed  by  Gori 
to  be  the  Dea  Norcia  of  the  Etrus- 
cans.    It  bears  an  inscription  on  the 
right  arm,  which  has  been  illustrated 
by  Lanzi.     A  bas-relief  representing 
a  bearded  soldier  the  size  of  life,  with 
an  Etruscan  inscription,  is  considered 
by  Micali,  Gori,  and  other  archaeolo- 
gists, as  the  oldest  relic  in  the  mu- 
seum.    In  a  chamber  above  the  mu- 
seum is  the  Public  Library,  founded 
and  endowed  by  Monsignorc  Guar- 
nacci  in  the  last  century.    It  contains 
1 2,000  volumes,  some  cinquecento  edi- 
tions of  the  classics,  and  4200  volumes 
of  the  acts  of  the  city  tribunals,  begin- 
ning A.  D.  1300. 

'file  Cathedral,  consecrated  by  Ca- 
lixtus  II.  in  1120,  was  enlarged  in 
1254  by  Niccolh  di  Pisa,  and  restored 
and  embellished  in  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury by  Leonardo  Ricciarelli,  a  nephew 
of  Danicle  da  Volterra.  The  fa9ade  is 
entirely  of  the  thirteenth  century,  but 
the  door'of  black  and  white  marble  ap- 
pears to  be  more  recent.  The  interior 
is  imposing.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  and  retains  all  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  original  design  ofNiceold 
di  Pisa,  Tlie  Corinthiau  cac^vI^Ja  -v^t^ 
added  m  stucco  Vo  \\vt  cc\>3x««vs  vcw 
1574  by  LeoTUirdo  RtcdartUx,  ^Vo 
adorned  the  too?  oi  l\v«i  «v^eiv^*^^^^ 


Re,," 


BOntESG.— FLOAENCE  TO  B 


-VoTlerra.     C^ecf.l^ 


I  bearings  uf  llic 
"lutedtuthecE 


nwnt  or  till!  libi 

pal  door  nrelKU-relieBi repreaenting  tliu 

tMDsIation  of  Ihe  boifot  Sc  Octavian 
to  tliis  calliedral ;  it  vasoniinnnllj  in- 
terred in  the  church  dedicated  to  thB 
saint  on  a  hill  four  mile*  north  of  Vnl- 
Um,  and  wns  brought  hither  in  the 
830  by  Bi*op  Andrea.  The  bss- 
rarrDerly  placed    on   the 

lU  of  the  catbedcsl,  and 
removed  to  iheir  pre»nt  poulion 

Near  this  is  an  alur  of 
great  port  of  which  iias  the 
'■iorii  of  MinodaFiaalc  who  vai  aha  the 
sculptor  of  the  two  kneeling  angels  on  I 
tile  beatilirul  spiral  columns  on  each , 
ride  of  the  choir.  Onllielcflaf  thcgreat ' 
door  is  the  mai^la  tomb  of  the  learned  | 
Mario  Ma8ei,\iBbop  of  Cavaillon, 
secretary  uf  the  Sacred  Callage,  and 
Nuncio  ofJuUus  II.  at  Paris.  The 
Tiukof  the  clioir  was  once  caicred  with  , 
IWieoeii  by  Niccolo  Circignani;  no- 
thing now  remuni  of  these  works  hut 
the  painting  on  the  vault  representing 
tbe  Almighty.  The  marble  pulpit  in 
covered  with  baa-reliefi,  which  arc  pro- 
bably not  later  titan  tbe  thirteenth  ccn- 
tuiy.  It  it  supported  by  lour  col  unrns 
of  Elba  granite,  resting  on  Ibe  backs  of 
monsters,  llie  baa  relief  in  the  front 
repiesenti  the  Last  Supper;  in  the 
■   ■     *  ■  ■      s,  Abrah 


celebrated  caplnin  of  the  siiteenth  oen- 
tucy.  called  the  "  flagello  dc'  Barberes- 
chi  e  de'  Turchl."  In  the  chapel  of 
the  SS.  Suramento,  built  by  Biahop 
Ser^idi.istheResurreotionofLaiann 
by  Sanii  di  Tilo,  with  the  inawiption 
Sanli  Titi,  F.  1592.  The  alur  was 
designed  by  Vaaari.  The  side  valla 
are  painted  by  Giovaimi  Baldutci  ;  and 
the  stuccoes  of  the  vault  are  by  l,eo- 
■orrfo  Sicdarellt,  whose  portrait  hu 
been  introduced  by  Balduco.      In  tbe 


Gher 


pelii 


oriliGii 

Annul 


e  Salutal 


raved  al 


withtl 


ml  tin 


e  them. 


some  line  frescoes  by  CiocuBni  da  S. 
Oievanm  (Giovanni  Mannoiii),  illua. 
tnting  the  history  of  St.  Paul,  and  a 
painting  by  2)oinem*cAiii(%  representing 
his  conversion,  much  injured  by  the 
retoueliing  of  Franehini  and  others ;  it 
is  Bald  that  DoToeniEhino  received  for 
this  work  800  icudi.  Tbe  other  pic- 
lures  of  the  chapel  are  the  Martyrdonl 
ofa.  Paul  by  Cm.  FranccKo  Cvrrnili, 
formerly  Bilributed  to  Gnercino;  and 
lAe  Sainl  receiving  tetters  relating  to 
the  C/iriatiaiisof  Dama^us,  by  jWoltfo 
^atreffi.  This  chapel  was  built  in 
ISIS  by   Gea.   Jacupa    fnghiromi,  a 


with  an  insciiption  on  the  bnek,  B.  M, 
F.  (<'  Bartolommn  me  fece  ")  i  it  wtt 
formerly  attributed  to  Ghirlandaio. 
ThefincPresenUtioniH  the  Templeb 
by  GiiAatliHa  NalSm.  Over  tbe  Sodl 
of  tbe  cloister  is  ■  bust  of  S.  Liaa  b* 
Lvea  della  Babbia.  In  thechapd'of 
the  Kosary  is  the  St.  Sebasdon,  by 
Francemo  Camgi  of  Borgo  S.  Sepoloro, 
painted  in  158T  for  forty  scudL  la 
the  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  OclaTtall 
is  the  beantifiil  marble  tomb  of  the 
saint,  executed  by  Raffaele  di  Giavaint 
Ciali  of  Sellign«io,'in  1S2J,  for  190 
scudi,  at  the  expense  of  the  peopte"(^ 
Volterra,  who  were  dearous  of 
memorating  their  delivery  fron 
plague  of  15SS  tbiongb  the  supposed 

angels  at  the  Sidea  are  by  ^luftm  dl 
Pirra  di  Starco  JVrruai,  mentioned 
by  Vasari  labia  liie  of  that  artist.  Tbe 
fine  picture  of  the  Virgin,  with  St 
Francis,  St.  John,  and  other  saints  el 


thehigbal 


the  I 


of  folti 

cesohini) :  the  beiuty  of  the  headoT 
St.  John  is  particularly  renmrkablei 
The  oratory  of  San  Carlo  contmina  the 
Deposition  by  SodnmB;  an  AnnnmEia- 
tion  by  Ltaa  SiDKantH,  pointed  in 
1491:  the  Virgin  with  saintsandangdaj 
by  Ltwiardoda  Pitttga;  the  Mb^^B 
della  Itadice,  by  ComUlo  Jnetmiri,  a 
scholar  of  Gutdo,  who  retouched  ttia 
head  and  some  other  portions  ;  and  the 
Nativity  by  Beiairn-iUo  da  Siena,  dated 
1470,  Willi  a  BHidiiM),  erroneously  at- 
ttibuted  to  Gioi.(a.  The  c)ia|iel  of  the 

Virgv.  ■       ■     ■ 

Goi2oli,  tep»es!at-«>ft ' 


Pigpal  SiatesJ}     b.  26-— Florence  to  rome. —  VoUerra.       199 

the  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  the  St.! marble;  thestatueof MaffeiisbyAftno 
Joeeph  is  one  of  the  earliest  works  of;  da  Fiesole ;  the  ornaments  are  by  Fra 
FdUrramos  the  representation  of  the  ,  ^n^e/bAfontorso/t;  and  the  statues  of  the 
S&  Nome  di  Gesu,  executed  on  wood  ~ 

bj  S,  Btmardino  da  Siena,  was  pre- 
sented by  him  to  the  town  in  1424, 
when  be  introduced  his  new  religious 
Older.  An  epitaph  in  this  cathedral 
commemorates  the  Bishop  Cscina  of 
Volterra,  who  died  in  1765,  and  is  ge- 


Archangel  Raphael  and  of  the  Beato 
Gherardo  Maffei,*the  Francescan,  are 
by  Stagio.  RafTaello  Maifei  was  bom 
at  Volterra  in  1451,  and  acquired  from 
this  circunnstance  the  name  of  "  II 
Volterrano."  He  obtained  considerable 
reputation  as  a  theologian  and  philo- 


nerally  supposed  to  have  been  the  last  sopher ;  he  was  the  founder  of  the 
of  the  illustrious  race  of  Cscina, :  Accademia  Letteraria  de*  Sepolti,  the 
whose  name  for  so  many  ages  had  been  author  of  the  «  Commentarii  Urbani,** 
associated  with  Volterra.  The  Sacristy,  dedicated  to  Julius  II.,  and  the  trans- 
eelebrated  for  its  relics,  has  a  silver '  lator  of  the  Odyssey.  He  was  ap- 
reliquiary,  remarkable  for  its  elabo-  '  pointed  by  Sixtus  IV.  secretary  to  the 
rate  workmanship,  containing  .four  .  Cardinal  of  Aragon  on  his  mission  into 
pieces  of  the  true  cross.  In  the  cloisters  \  Hungary,  and  was  employed  by  the 
of  the  Canonica  are  preserved  some  \  same  pope  in  other  important  negotia* 
interesting  fragments  of  the  marble  '  tions.  His  brother  Antonio  Volterrano 
ciborium  which  formerly  stood  on  the  is  well  known  as  one  of  the  leading 
high  altar.     Its  beautiful  sculptures   penonages  in  the  conspiracy  of  the 


arc  by  Mtao  da  Fiegole,  and  are  justly 
classed  am<xig  hii  finest  works. 

The  neighbouring  church  of  SL  Guy- 


Pazzi.  The  picture  of  the  Virgin  and 
S.  Lino  is  by  Francesco  Cvrradi,  and 
is  inscribed  «<  Ser  Curradi,  1597.^  The 


-vaaai,  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  ■  lunettes  and  one  of  the  altarpieces  arc 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  is  an  octagonal  by  Cosimo  Daddi. 
Gothic  building,  referred  to  the  seventh  '  Tlie  church  of  S, Francesco,  founded 
century.  The  doorway  of  black  and  .  in  the  thirteenth  century  by  the  Co- 
white  Aiarble  is  very  curious,  and  the  mune  and  citizens,  was  reconstructed 
capitals  of  the  Gothic  columns  are  full :  in  16i23,  and  has  undergone  many  sub- 
4lf  animals  and  birds.  Over  the  archi-  '  sequent  alterations.  It  contains  several 
tn\e  are  thirteen  heads  in  bas-relief .  tombs  of  the  Guidi  family,   among 


representing  the  Virginand  the  Twelve 
ilpostles.     The  rich  arch  of  the  high 


which  is  that  of  Jacopo  Guidi,  bishop 
of  Penna  and  Atri,  the  pupil  of  Guic- 


•Itar  is  covered  with  festoons  of  flowers  i  ciardini,  with  whom  he  was  sent  on  a 
and  fruits,  beautifully  sculptured  by  mission  from  Cosmo  I.  to  the  courts  of 
BohimeUida  Setti^aano  in  the  sixteenth  Madrid  and  Paris.  lie  wrote  a  life  of 
century.  The  fine  picture  of  the  As-  the  grand  duke,  and  died  in  1588.  The 
cension  is  by  Niccold  Cireipnani ;  it ,  sepulchral  stone  bearing  the  epitaph  of 
bearshisnameand  the  date  1591.  The  the  '^strenuus  et  magnanimus  miles 
ancient  Baptistery  of  statuary  marble  .  DominusMicluielPigideBuonaguidis 
is  celebrated  for  its  figures  sculptured    de  Vultcrris,"  is  interesting  on  account 


b>'  Ambrea  Samovino  (Cantucci)  in 
1502,  and  the  striking  Ciborio  bears 
tlie  name  of  Afirao  tta  Fiesole,  1 47 1 . 


of  the  high  preservation  of  the  figures, 
which  afford  a  finu  example  of  the 
military  costume  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 


The  church  and  monastery  of  San  tury.  At  the  altar  of  the  MafTei  fiimily 
Lino  were  founded  in  1480  by  Ilaf-  is  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  and  Child 
faello  .Maffei,  and  finished  in  1517,  at  i  with  saints,  by  Luca  Signorelli;  an  in- 
the  cost  of  80,000  scudi.  It  conuins  I  scription  sUtes  that  it  was  a  commis* 
the  tomb  of  the  founder,  erected  by  his  i  sion  from  Pietro  Belladonna,  a  monk 
brother  Mario,  wlioee  mausoleum  has  '  of  tlic  convent,  \AV>\.  TVv«  0«^::^st^\»xiv 
heea  mentioned  in  the  description  of  j  altar  haa  a  cXex^i  ^aXANxV^X^^  G\ot>anu\ 
iheemtbednL  lite  tomb  is  oi  Carrara  |  Aoidacci,  u\  V59\.     'VVwi  Cows«V^>» 


200 


bootbSS.— KoRKsCE  TO  BOMK. —  Volterm.     rSecfcf. 


_    the 


is  by  Gi-lnlliHa  Maldiiil,  ]5SS.  The 
■Itarpieci!  oT  llle  Guunni^i:!  i:lispel  » 
bj  CmiHio  Daddi.  The  celebrated 
Mario  GuarnscGi,  roundvr  uf  tlic  mu- 
nuDi,  and  one  of  the  Tcry  earliest 
Elrusciin  schoiaja,  is  buried  here.  His 
tomb  iru  erected  in  hia  lifetime. 

Adjoining  this  cliurcb  is  the  Gothic 
cliipel  Irelonging  to  the  Cuii/rafcn>j(^ 
data  Cnxe  di  Giorno,  built  ill  1315. 
The  iiilerioi  ia  coietcd  with  rrescocs 
pHrtiallf  defaced.  Od  the  blue  vault 
8re  llie  fuur  Evangelists,  by  Jacopo  da 
£^raae  (Oici^aa?),  in  1410.  The 
walla,  painted  according  to  the  in< 
i«eriptioa  by  Ceiino  di  Fraaceaco  di  Ser 
"  '  represent  the  Massacre  of  the 
Its,  the  Recovery  of  the  True 
...  .Ac.  Thii  Cenno  di  Ser  Ceani 
it  auppoaed  to  be  Catnino  Ceaaitii  da 
Cn&.thepupilorAgnoloGaddi.  The 
Crucifiiing  nt  the  high  altar  ■■  by 
Sodnma. 

The  church  of  S.  Jgotlmo,  built  in 
century,  and  restored  in 
JITSS.  contains  a  Crucifixion  by  Fran- 
Cnrradi,  dated  16II,  and  tiro 
intingsby  rat(crrana(FrsnGeachini): 
Ith  an  inscription,  uid  the  date 
.  the  other  representing  the  Puri- 
fication, painted  in  1G30,  irhen  he  fled 
to  Voltcrra  to  escape  the  danger  of 
the  plague,  vhich  was  then  raging  in 
Plorence.      This  church  is  celebrated 

of  the  Ctuinfiiitin,  at  the  Falconcini 
altar,  is  itill  regarded  vith  great  vene- 

The  diurch  of  S.  Mickde,  founded 
in  128S,  and  restored  by  the  Scolopii 
in  1828,  contains  a  fine  picture  of  the 
Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  Joseph, 
by  Carlo  Maratla.  At  the  altar  of  S.  ■ 
Giuseppe  Calasaniio,  founder  oFlhaJ 
order  of  the  Scolopii,  is  a  paintinir  of 
the  saint  copied  from  that  of  Antonio 
Franchi  by  Giuitppt  Zaahi  uf  Flo- 
rence, and  considered  to  be  a  finer 
work  than  the  original.  The  Seuole  ; 
Fie  were  established  in  the  Br|joining, 
conieotia  17]  1,  by  the  bishop  of  tlie  I 

diocaiff.  Otiavio  del  Hosso.  1 

Tbe  oratory  of  S.  Antonio,  erecled 

'  1172,  is  remarkable  for  its  altai- 


piece  by  Domnueo  G/iirlandaio,  repre- 
senting tliD  Virgin,  Hitli  Sc.  Antony 
abbot,  and  SL  Barthoiomcw;  and  for 
the  fresco  in  the  sacristy  by  Taddee 
Barlola,  mentioned  by  Vasari,  and 
bearing  his  name  and  the  date  14 . . 
(1418). 

The  church  of  San  Dalmaiioy  built 
by  Bartolummeo  Amroanato,  eontuna 
the  Deposition  from  the  Cross,  by  Gio. 
Piiolo  JloHetti,  the  nephen'  and  pupil 
of  Daniele  da  Volterra,  mentioned 
by  Lanii  and  Vasari    as  a  work  of 

The  Citadel  is  divided  into  two  por- 
tions :  the  Casscro,  or  the  Hocca  Veo- 
chia,  and  the  Rocca  Nuova.  The  Cu- 
serowas  built  in  1343  by  Gualtiere  di 
Bricnne,  duke  of  Athens,  then  lord  of 
Volterra.  Its  foundations  partly  mt 
on  the  ancient  Etruscan  walla.  The 
Hocca  Nuova  was  built  in  the  fbur. 
teenlh  cciiluiy  by  the  Floientinci, 
alter  Ihey  had  reduced  the  city  to  obe- 
dience and  piaced  over  it  a  Florentine 
aa  captain  of  the  people.  At  the  same 
time  they  constructed,  ou  the  site  of 
the  old  episcopal  palace,  the  lamoua 
primn  called  //  Maatia.  This  is  onE 
of  the  most  formidable  prisons  of  Tus- 
cany, and  was  formerly  used  for  stale 
oflbnders.  It  has  acquired  some  cele- 
brity as  the  scene  of  the  long  con- 

Lorenio  I<OTeDiim,thescbotaiofViTi- 
nui.  He  was  imprisoned  here  in  16S8 
by  Cosmo  III.,  on  (he  unfounded 
EuBpIcian  of  being  one  of  the  chief 
instrumonls  in  the  correspondence  be- 
tween the  Grand-Duchess  IMargaret 
of  Orleans  and  Prince  Ferdinand,  to 
attached.      He 


lained  a 


until  tl 


itill  e 


t  Florene 


manugcriptin  fourfoli 
Maglisbecchiana  libri 
The  citadel  wasconveriea  in  ihih  into 
a  House  of  Industry,  or  Cau  de'  La. 
Tori,  for  prisoners  whose  crimes  do  not 
jUBlir>{  their  employment  on  public 
-wotVs.  WooWeu  oVoftis  a-ni  av.\\ei  fe- 
ibtLca  ate  tnaie^icte,     TVvc  e^M^v^ 


Ptgfal  Stales  j     R.  26 — Florence  to  rome. — Volterra.      201 


ment  is  well  managed,  and  the  houses 
■nd  workshops  are  clean  and  neat. 

Behind  the  hospital  of  S.  Maria  Mad- 
dalena  is  a  building  erroneously  called 
the  Torre  degli  Aug^rL  An  inscrip- 
tion still  visible  over  the  door  in  Gothic 
characters,  shows  that  it  was  built  in 
1299  by  the  Hospitalers  of  S.  Giacomo 
in  Altopascio.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  used  as  a  magazine  for  salt. 

The  data  Guamaeci  with  its  three 
towers  has  an  inscription  over  the  door 
in  Gothic  characters,  which  shows  that 
the  first  tower  was  erected  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  thirteenth  century,  and 
reeords  the  name  of  its  architect,  Gi- 
roldo  da  Lugano.  This  house  contains, 
among  other  works  of  art,  a  fine  an- 
tique marble  statue  of  Hercules  as 
large  as  life,  and  evidently  of  Grecian 
workmanship. 

The  Caaa  Ducci  is  remarkable  for 
the  inscription  on  the  facade  comme* 
morating  a  young  child  of  the  fiimily 
of  Persius,  who  is  claimed  as  a  native 
€if  Volterra.  The  inscription  is  as  fol- 
lows :  A.   TBRSIVS    A.  F.    SEVERVS   V. 

Aim.  VIU.1I.UI.D.XIX. 

Tlie  CoMO  Riceiardlij  still  occupied 
by  the  descendants  of  Daniele  da  Vd- 
terra,  will  doubtless  be  regarded  by  the 
traveller  as  one  of  the  most'  interest- 
ing in  the  town.  It  contains  a  fine  oil 
painting  of  Elijah  by  that  great  artist, 
who  was  bom  here  in  1 509,  and  died 
in  Paris  in  1566.  The  Casa  McuseUi 
in  the  Via  del  Crocifisso  contains  an- 
other example  of  this  rare  master  in 
the  ceiling  of  a  small  room  which  he 
painted  in  firesco. 

^  The  Fountain  of  San  FeUeCy  near  the 
gate  of  the  same  name,  has  obtained 
some  repute  fi>r  its  mineral  waters, 
proved  by  analysis  to  possess  the  pro- 
perties of  the  sea-water  of  the  coast 
They  are  much  used  in  dyspeptic  and 
cutaneous  maladies. 

The  Alabaster  Manufaetorieshere  are 
well  worth  visiting.  Nearly  all  the 
vases  and  other  ornamental  works 
which  are  found  in  the  shops  at  Flo- 
ranee  and  L^hom  are  made  at  VoU 
terra;  but  the  atatues  and  figures  are 
manuBietured  in  Florence.     The  ar- 


ticles sculptured  here  are  cheaper 
than  those  sold  at  Florence  by  about 
one-half;  and  travellers  who  intend 
to  send  home  any  specimens  of  this 
beautiful  work  will  do  well  to  make 
their  selection  on  the  spot. 

The  Environs  of  Volterra  abound  in 
objects  which  would  afibrd  interesting 
occupation  to  the  traveller  for  many 
days.  The  ViUa  Inghirami,  in  the 
valley  to  the  east  of  the  town,  is  re- 
markable for  the  extraordinary  laby- 
rinth in  the  rock,  of  unknown  extent^ 
called  the  Buche  de*  Saracini,  on  the 
principle  which  assigns  to  the  Sara- 
cens every  wonder  on  the  coast  of 
Italy.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  ob- 
jects in  the  neighbourhood  of  Volterra 
is  the  deep  chasm  called  the  Baize,  pro- 
duced by  the  action  of  water  during 
many  centuries  on  the  soft  porous  soil 
of  the  surrounding  hills.  There  is  no 
place  in  Tuscany  where  the  operation 
of  this  cause  has  been  attended  with 
more  disastrous  consequences.  The 
upper  part  of  the  ravine  is  composed, 
like  the  hill  of  Volterra,  of  a  tertiary 
sandstone  resting  on  a  thick  bed  of 
blue  clay;  large  portions  of  the  rock 
are  continually  fsdling  from  the  sum- 
mit, without  having  any  apparent  effect 
in  filling  up  the  abyss.  It  is  known 
from  authentic  documents  that  the 
ravine  in  the  seventh  century  was  a 
highly  cultivated  spot,  well  wooded, 
and  covered  with  habitations;  about 
the  end  of  the  16th  century  the  sides 
were  observed  to  be  gradually  under- 
mined by  the  water  which  liad  pene- 
trated through  the  porous  strata;  in 
1627  it  engulfed  the  church  of  San 
Giusto;  and  in  1651  its  rapid  increase 
compelled  the  removal  of  another 
church,  which  had  previously  ap- 
peared beyond  the  reach  of  danger. 
Cosmo  II.  made  an  attempt  to  check 
the  progress  of  this  mischief,  and  se- 
veral plans  were  subsequently  tried  to 
collect  the  waters  into  another  chan- 
nel ;  but  all  have  been  unsuccessful, 
and  the  inhabitants  ob&ets^  ^>3Bk  %t«^ 
regret  that  tV\e  dav\^<et  \%  ^\^^\^vi\Vj  «:^ 
preaching  the  axic\eiv\.  ^Ve>xsc«ci  ^^'* 
on  this  aide,  and  x\\e  ccVV^t^'^'t^  v:*^ 


S.-^Ti-dRESCE  TO  BOME.^  T/in  Moremnus.    {[Scct.l; 


F 

^■tHlilotese  muautt-'ry  ur  -S.  Snivtilotc  ]  nano,n  small  villagu  on  llie  norlli-eait 
^^lie  prob>bie  causo  of  tbe  continued  of  Vulwrn.  aiid  ^  &  Aniuliuia,  nen 
TOtaciiy  of  tbia  cbBsn  uema  to  be  a  Ihe  road  to  Colle.  Tbef  iKCur  in  the 
(libCerrBDHD  Uream  or  river,  whisb  |  Urliary  marine  marli.  llie  largest  and 
having  at  this  point  eioswd  a  vaM  Iwd  ,  whitest  masses  are  found  at  Castdltnat 
of  salt  wliicU  underlies  this  counlc}',  I  a  few  milea  west  of  Mimtt  Catini.  At 
hu  vorlied  out  the  eicavaUun,  and  I  Ibis  pJace  is  llie  Monte  di  Caparoiano, 
contiouaUy  rcmovei  the  clay  and  looki  where  the  celebrated  Copftp-miitu  at 
which  fall  int.)  iL  Monte  Catini  occur.    These  works  an 

llie  CanuUdole^e  nionastery,  caUed  !  of  con^erable  aotiifULly  ;  Ihay  vtit^ 
the  Sadia  di  Son  Salealon,  situated  i  abnnduned  in  leSO,  during  tbe>,great 
on  tha  north  of  Volteira,  waa  founded  plague  whieb  denoted  the  Maienmu 
in  Ihe  eleventh  century  for  4ho  CanuJ-  In  that  year,  and  were  never  KyUama* 
dolese  monks.  It  has  a  noble  cloister, '  lically  restored  until  1837,  when  the; 
and  coiitsins  many  works  of  art  which  verc  reopened  by  Signor  Luigi  Porta, 
deserve  to  be  better  known  to  die  in-  <  At  that  lime  Ttiuany  imparted  bet 
telligeut  traveller.  At  the  altar  of  a  j  supply  of  copper,  whereas  at  Ibe  pte- 
Roiniialdo  is  the  line  picture  by  Do-  isent  time  the  metal  it  exported  to 
ueiu'co  GAirioiuiaiotepreBBntingS,  Ko- 1  different  parts  of  the  MediterraneaK 
mualdo,  S.  Benedict,  S.  Attina,  and  The  ore  is  a  very  rich  sulphuret,  se- 
&  Cieciniana,  mentioned  by  Lanii  j  curring  between  the  gHbbro,oiriM»d 
among  bis  best  works.  It  is  admirably  .  limestniB  and  the  wrpentine.  The 
preserved,  and  is  well-known  to  artists  annual  produce  of  the  mines  of  Monte 
by  the  Engraving  of  Diana  Manlu-  Catjni  recently  amounted  to  lOOiOOO 
vann,  wife  of  Ihe  architect  Capristu.  lbs,  Thera  are  other  coppet-minei 
At  llie  altar  of  the  SS.  Saeromenlo  is  farther  south  in  the  heart  of  the  Ms. 
the  Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  by  Donato  !  reuina,  at  Muntieri,  Malta,  and  Soeet 
Mucopni  <159g).  At  the  altar  della  ■'  Ttdtrighi,  which  were  worked  for  a 
Keta  is  Ibe  Deposition  Iroiu  the  Cross,  I  short  time  by  a  joint-stock  company 
by  Gio.  Faoh  KoaiUli,  engraved  by '  under  Signor  Luigi  Forte ;  the  veins 
Diana  Mantovana;  and  at  another  i  of  orewsrefound  to  be  extremelyiudi, 
altar  i*  the  Nativity  of  the  Saviour  by  \  but  the  enterprise  was  unsuccesaFu^ 
tbe  same  master.  Tbe  S.  Benedict  and  I  chieiiy  in  conseijuencu  of  the  sbsenee 
&  Romualdo  at  the  sides  of  the  organ  I  of  maohinery  and  other  modern  im> 
are  by  Valitrrana  (Franeeachini),  who  I  provemenls.  The  Salt-warkw  and  the 
painted  the  superb  fresco  of  Elijah  j  brine-apringsareabont  fivemilBafroia 
aleepiiif  1  iu  the  Foretticria.      In  the    Volterro,  akiDg  both  banks  of  Ihe  C*- 

^eture  of  Job  by  Dtmato  Matcaffni,  by  I  Rcial  wells  sunk  to  the  de)ith  of  about 
whom  are  ihe  frescoes  illustrating  Ihe  j  1U0  feet,  from  wljich  Ibe  brine  sa 
lib  of  S.  Ciuslo,  and  the  oil  painting  pumped  up  by  boraci,  and  oonieyed 
of  the  Marriage  of  Cana,  in  the  Itet  I  in  conduits  to  Che  faciories  callni  tb« 
&atory.  In  one  of  the  adjoining  rooms  |  iUnjc,  where  it  is  evuporated.  The 
ia«  aeries  of  pictures  representing  va-  <  shafta  of  the  wells,  although  of  course 
riou*  events  iu  the  history  of  Volterra,  built  perpcnilicularly,  are  all  more  or 
attributed  to  Gkirlaiidaio.  less  inclined,  owing  to  the  abifting  nit- 

Thecountryaround  Volterranbounds  lure  of  the  clay  through  which  liwy 
more  in  mineral  liches  than  any  other  pass,  aadalsoto  the  continual  removal 
district  of  Italy,  uml  large  fortunes  of  tbe  salt  which  suppoits  It-  The 
(lave  been  acnuired  there  by  the  enter-  wood  of  the  neighlwurbood  supplies 
^msing' juuprietors  wilhin  a  period  of  abundant  fuel  fiir  the  evaporating- pans. 
abouttenyean.  31eW/aia»(tr quarries,  Tbe  principal  wells  on  the  right  bank 
upon  irliicb  an  iinporlaut  branth  of  UEt\>e  CetinaaicftioMrf  S. Giovanni, 
2'uscaa  iadastry  depends,  are  at  lilig-\  S.  LoienTO.  S.  liwa,  S.  KsMnvi  "i*. 


Plapai  StaUsJ]  r.  26.-»florxncb  TaROMs. — Martmma,     20S 


ii,  S.  Maria,  Buriano,  Colizione, !  cavity  a  small  stream  of  water  is  con- 
Ac.  On  tlie  left  bank  are  those  of  I  veyed  until  it  is  nearly  full.  The  cold 
Monte  Gemoli,  Tolleoa,  Querceto,  &  water  going  down  into  the  cavity  be- 
Benedetto,  and  Marsanella,  ThePozio  comes  greatly  heated,  and  is  driven 
cf  San  Giusto  was  long  famous  as  one  !  violent)y  upward  by  the  steam  thus 
of  the  most  productive ;  it  is  said  to  |  formed,  llie  whole  of  the  water  be- 
have occasionally  yielded  as  much  as  comes  heated  by  this  constant  regur- 
36  lbs.  of  salt  ftom  100  lbs.  of  water,  gitation  from  the  heated  cavity,  and 
The  most  modem  well  is  that  of  San  !  at  the  end  of  about  twenty*four  hours 
Leopoldo,  which  promises  under  go-  i  it  has  absorbed  nearly  one  per  cent,  of 
vcmment  management  to  surpass  all  |  boracic  acid.  After  a  period  of  repose 
the  others  in  the  amount  of  its  produce,  in  another  excavation,  in  which  the 
About  16  miles  south  of  Volterra  mud  is  deposited,  this  solution  is  con- 
are  the  Boraeie  add  workM^  called  the  veyed  into  large  evaporating- pans.  A 
Xjogcni  di  MonU  CerboH.  They  occur  '  powerful  jet  of  steam  from  one  of  the 
in  the  secondary  limestone.  The  road  j  large  holes  made  in  the  broken  ground 
leading  to  them  crosses  the  Cecina  be-  ;  is  conveyed  in  a  kind  of  drain  to  the 
low  Volterra,  and  passes  through  Le  evaporating-house,  and  passes  in  flues 
/^muiTuaee,  where  there  is  a  comfort-  j  under  every  part  of  the  evaporating- 
■ble  inn,  which  the  traveller  had  better  '  vessels.  Itie  water  is  thus  carried  off 
make  his  halting  place.  From  Po-  !  into  the  atmosphere,  and  the  boracic 
marance  Monte  Cerboli  is  about  6  acid  remains.  These  works  arc  now 
miles  distant.  Mr.  Babbage  has  '  in  the  most  flourishing  condition  owing 
Ipven  us  the  following  description  of :  to  the  sagacity  of  the  Chevalier  Lar- 
the  t^orks; — **  The  district  in  which  Iderel,  now  Count  of  Monte  CerbolL 
the  Lagoni  occur  is  one  of  the  most  |  About  ten  years  since,  tho  cost  of 
•ingular  countries  in  the  world.  Near  .  the  fuel  by  which  the  water  was  eva- 
the  village  of  Monte  Cerboli,  in  the  \  porated  was  so  great  that  little  boracic 
midst  of  a  deep  rugged  and  broken  acid  was  procured,  and  it  scarcely  re- 
ravinc,  is  one  of  the  eight  establish-  i  paid  the  labour  and  cost  of  production, 
ments  for  extracting  boracic  acid  from  ;  The  Count  conceived  the  happy  idea 
the  earth.  From  the  whole  surface  of  •■  of  employing  the  heat  which  nature  so 
a  large  space,  probably  a  square  mile  !  plentifully  offered,  and  thus  dispensed 
of  the  broken  grotmd,  there  issues  a  j  with  the  whole  expense  of  fuel.  The 
large  volume  of  steam,  which  rises  high  |  result  of  this  plan  of  converting  vol- 
in  the  atmosphere  before  it  is  absorbed, ;  canic  heat  to  commercial  purposes  has 
and  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of .  been  the  establishment  of  villages  and  a 
many  miles*  In  the  midst  of  this  fog  of  thriving  population  in  a  locality  which 
■team,  on  a  small  plain  forming  a  kind  \  was  previously  almost  a  desert  About 
of  island,  stands  a  village  containing  ten  years  ago  the  whole  of  the  borax 
the  cottages  of  the  workmen,  the  eva-  j  consumed  in  England  was  imported 
porating-chambers,  the  storehouses,  from  the  East  Indies ;  at  present  more 
and  a  church  recently  built,  llie  pro-  ,  than  half  the  demand  is  supplied  from 
cess  of  preparing  the  boracic  acid  is  the  boracic-acid  works  of  Tuscany." 
the  following :  —  on  excavating  a  few  |  The  localities  of  these  works  are  all 
inches  into  any  part  of  the  broken   south  of  the  Cecina ;  they  are  mostly 


ground  stoam  issues  with  great  force, 
driving  with  it  mud  and  even  stones 
with  A  violent  noise.  One  or  two  feet 
is  c|uite  deep  enough  for  the  object  re- 
quireil.     A  small  dwarf  wall  is  rudely 


at  Monte  Cerboli,  on  the  Posscra,  a 
small   tributary    of  the    Cecina;    at 
Castcl  Nuovo,  on  the  ridge  between 
the  Possera  and  the  Pavone ;  at  Sasso, 
near  the   source  of  the  Cornia ;    at 
made  round  this  opening,  and  thus  a  i  Monte  Rototvdo,  oti  V^^«  \vC\<ik  li^nQi^% 
Iwge  cuj9-MhMpedpool  h  formed  of  from   the  souTce  o^  VV\c  "WiXm^*,  «X\i«&>A^^^^ 
ten  to  forty  fyet  in  diameter.   Into  this   and  SentiaTio,  on  xVv^  rv^t  >a«s}i-  ^"^ 


9W     It.  26. — pionKSCE  TO  rome. — Tfte  Maremma.    fSect.  I. 


tbu  Corniai  •£  Lugo,  and  al  Sail 
Feilerigoal  Lago,  The  average  pro- 
duce (if  tlie  iBgooni  ia  said  to  bu  about 
600.000  lbs.  of  boiacic  acidannuallyi 
of  lliU  one-sinlh  is  used  in  the  innnu- 
&ctiirc  of  borax,  tbe  reit  is  eipoiied 
aiid  chiefly  used  in  glas  work^ : 
the  quantity,  liovcrer,  varit 


log    1 


million 


1836, 


half  lbs.  Ill  the  iieighbourhoud  of 
Monte  Ceiboli  arc  llie  warm  mineral 
iiral«n  called  the  Bagni  a  IHorba,  cele- 
brated Tor  their  imtdicinal  qualities  in 
Uu  time  of  the  Flarentiuu  republic 
Tbe  bath  called  deUa  Ptiia  was  much 
lued  by  L.oreiito  de'  Medici.  They 
were  leatored  a  few  years  since  by 
Signor  Francesco  Lamotte,  and  are 
viutcd  by  large  numbers  from  larious 
paru  of  Italy  during  the  sessod. 

The  Tuscan  Maremma  consists  of  a 
flat,  alluvial,  and  marshy  region  be- 
tween the  sea-coast  and  tlie  hills  of 
Kcondsry  and  tertiary  strata  wliich 
form  the  greater  portion  of  the 
provinces  of  Siena  aad  Vol  terra. 
Tuscany  was  the  last  state  in  Italy 
which  began  to  drain  her  Maremma, 
and  the  first  which  succeeded  in  brliig- 
iog  the  enterprise  to  completion,  'llie 
works  were  begun  in  1 839  under  tbe 
direction  of  the  celebrated  Count 
Fossombroni,  who  adapted  the  system 
which  bad  been  so  luccessfully  em- 
ployed in  the  Val  di  Chiaua  ii>  the 
previous  century.  The  remarkable 
works  in  that  valley,  under  the  patron- 
age of  Leopold  1.,  bod  literally  ful- 
filled the  prophecy  of  Torn'celli,  who 
said  that  the  beds  of  the  rivers,  when 
employed  to  fill  up  the  pestilential 
marshes,  would  pour  forth  gold,  and 
that  the  stream  of  Paclolus  would 
tben  aeasv  to  be  a  fable.  Count  Foi- 
Bombront  therefore,  in  undertaking 
the  drainage  of  the  Logo  di  Castig- 
lione,  the  principal  marsh  uf  tbe  iH- 
remma.  adopted  the  plan  of  the  river 
deposits,  which  had  proved  so  eSectual 


't  the  1 


eforc  the  c 


1   of  II 


in  off.      In  I 


gradually  raised, 
tent  uf  marsh  land  was  convened  into 
fertile  ground.  Wheal  is  now  grown 
In  places  which  a  tew  years  back 
were  under  water  (  and  the  time 
is  probably  not  far  distant  when  the 
whole  Maremma  will  be  eonverted 
into  a  rieb  agricultural  district.  Tm- 
vcllers  who  arc  desirous  of  visi^ag  tbe 
country  reclaimed  by  the  draining 
should  go  from  Voltcrra  to  Grosaeto, 
from  whence  they  might  proceed  direct 
to  Corncto  and  Civita  Veccliia  by  the 
new  road  recently  constructed  by  the 
grand  duke.      The  distance  from  VoU 


I   38 


niles 


Ik,, 


iosCajicc.     He 
r  Ombrone,  which  de- 
tbe   Clay  hills,   and  al- 1 
!  icalers  to  deposit  the' 
h   tliey  weie   charged 


Locanda  del  Sole,  very  bod.  From 
Massa  to  Grosieto  the  distance  is  30 

miles; /as,  L'Aquila,  tolerable.  From 
Grosseto  to  OrbtteUo  about  30  miles. 
From  Orbetello  to  C<irnita  about  96 
milef.  From  Massa  to  SieuaJO  miles; 
and  from  Grosseto  to  Siena,  50  milet. 
Notwithstanding  the  improved  MHidL- 
tion  of  the  Maremuui,  it  is  not  ;et 
free  from  malaria  in  summer,  and  tra- 
vellers should  be  cautious  in  visittjig 
it  during  the  eitreme  beats.  From 
October  (if  tbe  autumnal  rains  have 
ceased)  to  May  it  is  as  safe  as  any 
other  part  of  Italy.  From  VolterratO 
Sinxa  the  distance  is  33  miles.  Joining 
tbe  great  post  road  at  the  39th  mile 
from  Florence. 

Travellers  returning  from  Volterra 
to  Florence  may  proceed  through 
Poutedera  and  Empoli.  The  distance 
is  Gfi  miles,  about  SO  more  than  that 
through  Colle  and  Foggibonsi;  but  it 
is  mure  level  than  that  route.  It  de- 
scends rapidly  from  Volterra.  After 
crossing  the  rocky  bed  of  the  Steria, 
it  passes  on  the  right  hand  the  town 
of  Feccioli,  finely  situated  on  a  hill 
above  the  right  huik  of  the  Era.  Far- 
ther on,  following  tbe  course  of  tbe 
Era,  it  passes,  about  midway  Iwtween 
the  villages  of  CapannoU  and  Pon- 
sacco,  tbe  villa  of  Camugliano,  tbe 
leat  of  tbe  Marchese  NiccolinL  At 
Foafidcrit  1,2,0  mv^sj  '*  tiiia  'iBUi  Mia 
poat-toad  from  V\oteMft  «.  ?v«k^ 
lLegbotn,nie.«a'sWwe«i«aeMa1«««. 


PtpHl  StaUl.'\  HOUTK  ^Sr'FLORKKCB  TO  BOMB.— S'iena.     305 


afCkitel  dd  Boko  and  Fornacette. 
The  wont  inn  ii  Iha  Ancora  d'Ora. 
The  Albeigo  Grande  appoms  better  ; 
■t  I«  Stem  and  Pocsaecu  are  puoT 
daepiog  place*.  From  tlie  la  tier 
tbna  ia  a  nnd  13  miles  to  l>isa, 
whirhulOinilea  from  Voltcna.  The 
MMtd  ttom  FoDlederB  to  Florence  (36 
milea)  ascends  the  \t(%  Lank  of  ihe 
Ano,  and  commands  some  beautiful 
TMwa  of  the  plaina  and  hills  around 
Km  and  Lucca. 

Leafing  Pi^^bontl  for  Siena,  we 
attend  the  lalle;  of  tbe  Slaggia,  leav- 
ing OD  the  left  hand  Hie  exlcn&ive 
auuntaiaoua  tract  caUed  the  CkiaiUi, 
which  givei  name  to  a  wiiiu  well 
known  to  traTclters  on  this  route,  and 
tfau*  celebrated  by  Redi ; 

"Dal  bum  ChimatlU  vin  ilecreiillo. 


Ifi  pwegalade 


1  Caatiglioncello ;  an  additional 
Iwtie  for  thii  ■tage,but  not  vice  vnrsH. 
Shortly  before  arriTing  at  Siena  wu 
paai  a  column  erected  on  tlie  spot 
where  the  Emperor  Fredetii'k  III. 
met  hi)  consort  Eleonura  of  Forlugal, 
conducted  by  ^neas  Sylvius,  a 
coinpuiied  by  four  hundred  lu< 
tbe  city,  Siena  it  entered  b 
Porta  Camollia,  over  which  is  1 
acriptioD  taid  to  bave  beun  put 
1601  tor  the  Grand  Dute  Ketdi 


1  SiZMi  (/«■>.'  AguilR  N'era, 
but  capable  of  improve  mem ;  he  i 
d'iDghtlterra,  recently  improveil 
rendered  by  the  present  pKiiir! 
Signor  Seggi,  one  of  tlit-  most 
fcrtable  hotels  on  this  road  ;  but 
tstber  dear  ;  I  tre  Re).   I'auporl 


of   ' 


fee  ii  neccBiary  to  prevent  annoyance 
in  the  examination  of  baggage.  Tliii 
Micient  city  is  40  miles  from  Florence, 
and  occupies  Ihe  irregular  snmmit  of 
a  hill  of  tertiary  tandstane,  rising  on 
tbe  bordeiM  of  the  dreary  and  barren 
tnet  irhieb  fomu  Ibe  foulbern  Iboun- 
daij  of  Taxaof.     Tb»  whole  district 


bears  the  same  desolate  appearance 
and,  like  that  of  Volteri^  eonaisu  tj 
bare  clay  hills  capped  with  tertiary 
marine  aandatone.  The  street  entered 
at  tbe  Porta  Camollis,  or  tbe  Floren- 
tine gate,  diiidea  tbe  city  into  two 
nearly  equal  portions  ;  the  streets  are 
generally  narrow  and  irregular,  fre- 
quently so  steep  as  to  be  impassible 
in  carriages,  and  many  of  Ihera  are 
mere  narrow  lanea;  they  are  mostly 
paved  with  tiles,  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed by  Pliny  as  the  "  spicata  te*> 
tacea."  The  streets  are  generally  bor- 
dered with  immense  mansions  called 
palaces,  although  they  have  neitlter 
the  aspect  nor  the  architectural  ffca- 
turea  of  palaces.  Many  of  them  have 
lofty  towers  and  rings  near  the  en- 
trance, like  tbe  old  mansions  of  Flo- 
rence. In  the  days  when  Siena,  as  a 
republic,  was  tbe  great  rival  of  Fla- 
rence,  she  could  send  a  hundred  thou- 
sand armed  men  out  of  her  gates  ;  the 
present  population  is  little  more  than 
1S,000,  and  in  the  extreme  quarlen 
of  tbe  city  gross  Is  growing  on  the 

Siena  preserves,  almost  without 
change,  the  name  of  Sena  Julia,  and 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  colony  es- 
Cabliabed  by  Julius  Cssar.      Though 


of  Tuscany, 


r   Etrusci 


quity.  The  interest  of  the  existing  city 
Is  derived  from  its  prominent  position 
ong  the  free  cities  of  the  middle 
is.  Id  the  early  part  of  the  twelfth 
iCury  it  had  thrown  oS'  the  yoke 
of  the  Countes9.3Iati!da,  and  declared 
itself  an  independent  republic  The 
nobles  fi.-ll  early  before  the  power 
of  tbe  people,  and  were  compelled  to 
retire  from  the  city.  The  popular 
party,  although  divided  by  the  riialry 
of  their  leaders,  warmly  embraced  the 
Ghibelinc  cause ;  and  on  the  cipul- 
uon  of  Furinata  degli  Uberti  from 
Florence,  all  Ihe  Florentine  Chibe- 
lines  who  were  implicated  in  the  con- 
spiracy of  that  celebrated  personage 
were  received  fc-iimrtoVj  «.  'svcKk. 
During  tWboi).\\\'iveawVu.c\\U{uiii«&, 
tbe  wlu)U!  poww  o(  tt«  GmA'^'w  v**^ 
in  TuKan^  was  4tSe»Wii\^^  "Co*  <■'» 


E 


«OCTB  Sft-'-rLOltBirCB  TO  aoMKiK_iKejis,-  "ffcctll 

id  lbre«  of  Sicnn  anii  I'lio.  undec  i  merce  was  so  extensive  as  ta  euritc 
uimuul  of  I'BrinaCa  and  the  ge-  tbe  jealous;  cvvn  or  the  Floreiitinis. 
dT  Minfred,  at  Mouie  Aperto,  |  Siena  ta  now  the  chief  city  of  one 
atiout  fi>e  milei  iroiii  Sena.  Thia  of  the  flie  Coinpanlmeiid  of  Tuionjt 
metnoralile  battle,  eammaiionted  by  the  seat  of  on  aielibishop,  of  a  militK} 
I>antc,  in  which  the  Gudpbs  left  no ;  governoc,  of  ft  criminal  tribuoal,  a 
Itu  limn  10,000  dead  upon  the  Geld, .  Court  of  (lie  Fint  Instance,  and  • 
iru  fought  on  the  4th  tSeptember,  i  civil  Ruata.  Ita  populatiao  in  183i 
l£60;  it  not  only  establiibed  the  su.   was  1S,600. 

premncy  of  tlie  Ghibelines,  hut  left  |  llie  SrAW  d/ Si'ma  ia  so  remarkable 
in  the  liands  of  the  Sieiiese  the  great '  a  feature  in  the  hUtory  of  the  ei^, 
atinitard  of  Florence,  whoae  polea  are  I  tliat  it  will  be  desirable  to  give  • 
atill  preserced  IB  the  oathedraL  ,  brief  epitome  of  its  character  and  itt 

Tbii  dwiiira  action  brought  baoklmanen,  in  order  that  the  woika  of 
to  Sena  a  HTCst  number  nf  her  exiled  I  an  scattered  over  its  eburohes  aiMt 
nobles,  either  to  beaome  citizens  and  .  palaces  may  be  the  more  tborongU; 
traders,  or  to  live  a  distinct  and  oppreciatod.  The  prevailing  ohamc- 
isolated  clasfl  in  a  separate  quarter  of  tcri^itic8  of  this  school  are  deep  Feli~ 
Ibe  city,  whith  still  relaips  the  name  gious  feeling,  and  a  peouliar  bmutj 
of  "  Casato."  After  numarous  con-  '  and  tenderoess  of  exprcsuon  inspired 
teals  between  the  people  and  Ibe  rich  !  by  devotional  enthusiasm,  dilfering 
merchants,  who  formed  a  kind  of  altogetlier  from  that  style  which  clos. 
burgher  aristocracy  oo  the  overthrow  sical  study  had  intrtiduced  into  (he 
of  Iha  nobles,  Charles  IV.  io  vain  «n- i  northern  schools  of  Italy,  In  anti- 
deavoured  to  acfjuire  the  ligDOfis;  quity  the  Sieness  sehoil  is  nearly 
but  the  city,  althougli  abla  to  resist ,  equal  to  that  of  Florence,  andtbere 
his  sohemes.  was  too  mtich  weakened  ia  no  doubt  that  it  exercised  an  inif 
iberty  by  the  portont  induenee  on  the  great  mas- 
'  tcrs  of  the  fifteenth  oentury.  Th« 
pstronagB  of  the  republic  as  earlj 


other  iiopular  usurpers  tu  withstand 
the  encroach  meats  of  the  Mediui,  who 
found  means  to  destroy  by  treachery 
tlw  last  rvmntint  of  her  treedom. 

It  was  duringthislast  struggle ti»t 
the  ferocious  Marquis  de  Marignono, 
whom    Coatno  de'  Medici  hi 
mis^oneii  to   reduce  the  cit 
fcmine.  iiihimianly  destroyed 
pulatlon  of  ths  Sienese  Maremma,  i 


that   t 


I    fertile   distrif 


>  the  whole  i 
Malari 


the  thirteenth  cocouraged  if  it  did 
not  createasDcicty  of  artists.  1^  which 
Cuiiluccio,Uietisidvi,Guido  da  Siena, 
and  Duccio  di  Buoninsegna  ware  tha 
leading  members.  The  most  remark- 
able among  the  early  masters  is  Sitnooa 
Memmi,  or  rather  Simoiie  di  Martinet 
the  unntemporary  of  Ciotto  and  friend 
of  Petrarch,  who  dedicated  la  bim 
Iwo  of  his  sonnets  as  the  painter  of 
Laura's  iwrtrsil.  He  died  in  1344) 
among  his  soholara  were  his  relative 
Lippo  Meinini.  and  Fietro  and  Ab- 
brogio  Lorenzetti.  In  the  GIteenth 
century  Andrea  di  Vanni,  Bema  dn 
Siena.  Taddeo  Bartolo,  and  JwHfpO 
Pacchiarolto  were  the  prinoipal  re- 
presentatives of  the  schouL  Bortolot 
indeed,  gave  it  additional  lustre  by 
the  refinement  and  deep  feeling  of  his 
wniks ;  but  at  bis  death  the  school 
declined,  alttough  Sana  and  Lorenui 
„      .  ,  di  Fietro  MiAMfcWioftaSvwwL^-itil 

"/"a  school  of  pointing,  nad  ita  com-^a    tempottiTy   oeVdjtvlrj .      ^  Sii  w* 


to  reap  the  in- 

heritance  o 

the  vicliiB 

sofMorignano, 

the  victims   or 

"     During  the  period  of 

the  terriw 

ry  of  Siena  was 

large   and 

100,000   men 

were  fotini 

walls;  it  had 

«)iirtvn>ne 

which    all   hut 

«>A<'flr»  n 

ow  closed 

the  arU  were 

eamursged. 

the  city  became  the  seat 

Fapti  Siatei.2  boutb  2&— vlojuncb  to  bomx. — Siena.    207 


noof  er  its  duuneter  until  the  intro- 
duction o((  the  modern  ityle^  the  moet 
eminent  artist  of  whirii  was  Gian- 
antonio  Raiaif  better  known  as  So- 
domy a  follower  and  perhaps  a  pupil 
€i  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  whose  merits 
were  so  great  that  he  was  employed  on 
the  decorations  of  the  Vatican  and  the 
Fameaina  Palace,  and  was  considered 
by  Aunibale  Caraoci  as  one  of  the 
great  masters.  Among  his  pupils  were 
Miohaelangelo  da  £ena  (Anselmi) 
and  Bartolommeo  Neroni  (Biceio). 
But  the  most  eminent  was  Beecafumi, 
well,  known  by  the  pavement  of  the 
eatbedraL  liie  last  names  of  any 
note  are  tboee  of  Baldassare  Perussi» 
the  celebrated  architect,  and  Marco 
dm  Pino,  .or  da  Siena,  generally  con^ 
aidened  as  his  pupiL  Ihe  subsequent 
history  of  the  Sienese  school  presents 
no  names  of  eminence,  although  Sa- 
iimbeni,  Francesco  Vanni,  and  a  few 
others  occur  during  the  middle  and 
latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century. 

The  Aeeadtmw  dtUe  BdU  Arte  con- 
tains a  rich  collection  of  works  by  the 
older  Sienese  masters.     The  most  re- 
markable of  them  are,  the  Christ  by 
<;«ic/iiccto(lS15),  the  Virgin  by  GiHo 
di  Pietro  (12^9),  the  Adoratiourof  the 
Shepherds,  by  Dueeio  di  Buoninttgna, 
the  Annunciation,  S.  Horn  ualdo^  and  St. 
Paul,  in  four  compartments,  by  Segna 
di  BtumverUtir€i,  and  tlie  S.  Michael, 
by  Simone  Mtmmi  (di  Martino).     Of 
the  subsequent  painters  of  this  scho<^ 
there  are  the  following  among  many 
other  examples :  —  the  St.  Sebastian 
by  Andrea  di  Vamnif  the  Annunciation 
by    Tatideo  Bartalo,   a    Nativity    by 
Franeeaco  di  Giorgio^  a  large  altarpiece 
with  saints  by  Andrea  del  Breecianiuo, 
a  Visitation  and  an  Annunciation,  by 
Fdcchiarotio,  a  Holy  Family  by  5a- 
doma,  a   beautiful   altarpiece   df   St 
Catherine  by  Btcettjumi,  a  Paradise 
by  Biceio  (Bart.  Neroni),  a  Madonna 
and  a  Nativity  by  Ftrugino ;  the  cele- 
brated -  masterpiece   of    Sodomot   the 
Christ  at  the  column,  formerly  in  the 
church  of  S.   Francesco,  one  of  the 
SiieMt  freacoea  in  Imly,  iqjurvd  in  the 
lower  pari  by  damp,  and  much  da- 
mmgvd  by  muaket  balls   during  the 


revolutionary  troubles  which  followed 
the  French  invasion ;  Beecajumffs  ori- 
ginal cartoons  for  the  pavement  of  the 
cathedral ;  and  two  small  pictures  of 
the  Magdalen  and  Sta.  Reina  by  Fra 
Bartolommeo. 

The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral,  has  been 
described  with  very  different  feelings 
by  different  travellers^  some  dwelling 
with  admiration  on  its  elaborate  de- 
tails, and  others  condemning  it  as  an 
architectural  absurdity  deformed  by 
the  bands  of  coloured  marble  so  fre- 
quently observed  in  Italian  churches 
of  this  period,  and  always  producing 
a  disagreeable  effect  in  the  eyes  of  an 
English  traveller.  In  spite  of  this 
diversity  of  criticism,  the  cathedral  of 
Siena  is  beyond  all  question  one  of  the 
most  characteristic  examples  of  the 
Italian  Gothic,  which  Professor  Willis 
has  proved,  by  a  masterly  analysis  of 
its  component  parts,  to  be  susceptible 
of  much  more  extended  generalization 
in  its  principles  than  is  commonly 
supposed. 

It  was  **  begun,"  says  Mr.  Hopc^ 
**  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  conse- 
crated about  1180  by  Pope  Alex- 
ander III.  The  front  was  first  com- 
pleted about  tliemiddle  of  the  thirteenth 
century  by  Giovanni  da  Siena ;  but 
not  being  approved  o^  was  demolished, 
the  nave  lengthened,  and  the  new  front 
begun,  in  1284,  it  is  supposed,  on  the 
doogns  of  Niccolo  di  Pisa,  and  finished 
by  Lorenso  Maitani,  a  native  of  Siena, 
in  1S90.  It  is  inlaid  with  black,  red, 
and  white  marble,  relieved  with  other 
colours,  painting,  and  gilding,  and 
offers  a  bastard  pointed  style,  or  rather 
a  jumble  of  different  styles ;  the  centre 
porch  being  round,  and  those  of  the 
sides  pointed,  and  the  higher  parts  not 
rising  insensibly  out  of  the  lower,  but 
seeming  stuck  on  tliese  apris  coup ;  the 
pediments  only  like  triangular  screens 
or  plates,  placed  before  and  uncon- 
nected with  the  roof."  The  fe9ade  is 
covered  with  ornaments  and  sculi>i 
tures,  among  which  are  several  ani- 
mals symboUcaV  o^  \\v«  ca\\«&  ^VcvSol 
were  aWied  to  ^naoi  d\.^«T«QX.'^cTA^ 
duTini^  Ibe  ilni|^%\M  ot  >^e  V3>m\^' 
and  GhibeWnwi.      TVv«i  *Yi^-^^^  ^ 


H0tJtH"2S.— TLOREHCE  TO  HOME, — Steha.       [SeCtft 


t   SUeni;  the  aUirk,  Punigia: 

le  gooac,  Orticto;  the  eUiilianl  anc 

stle,  Bmne ;    the  dragon,    Phta'is 

e  hire.  Pia»  ;  the  unicorn.  Vilerbo ; 

L^be  bone.  Arena  ;  the  Tulture,  Vol- 

I    terra;  Ibe  lyni,  Lucca;  and  the  kid 

Orooelo.     Oter  the  door  are  bunts  of 

iinU,  CBlherine,  Beriisrdm, 


'Dig  n 


nrkable 


^rca  of  thii  liont  are  the  Prophet 
tnd  Oie  two  Angels  bj  Jacopo  della 
tie  cohimus  of  the  great 

piorenceand  Matsa.  Tht  Carnpanile 
rubuilt  by  the  Bisdomiiii,  and  is  con- 
en  t1;  a  more  ancient  struct ure 
the  cathedral ;  it  has  same  re- 
unblanee  to  that  of  Sao  Zeno  at 
(■Verona.  The  marhlo  coating  and  all 
!  are  hy  Agoslino  and 
Angela  da  Siena.  One  of  the  bells 
bearaUiedateofll4B.  TAcintoiorei- 
hibitsbut  SBimOl  portion  of  the  build- 
ing as  it  was  originally  designed;  it 
was  intended  to  hare  formed  only  one 
of  the  BJde  aisles  of  the  projected  edi- 
Dee,  which  was  abandoned  on  account 
of  the  plague 


-yand  its  windows 


terra-cotta  heads  of  all  Ihe  popes  down 
to  Aleiander  III.  in  alto-relievo, 
among  which  that  of  Pope  Zaeharias 
was  originally,  the  bust  of  Pope  Joan, 
and  liad  the  inscription,  Johanna 
Fill.,  Fcmita  de  Angtia.  It  was  me- 
tamorphosed in  1600  by  the  grand- 
duke,  at  the  suggestion,  it  is  said,  of 
Clemeut  VIII.  and  Cardinal  Tarugl 
Many   of  the   antipopeg    are   in    Ihe 

be    complete,    several 


ftil/ier 


The 


roof,  is  divided  into  panels,  jiainled 
blue,  and  studded 'with  gold  slarv 
The  two  Urge  columns  of  the  door, 
sDulptured  in  148S.  sustain  an  elegant 
tribune  with  four  bas-relief  repr^ 
Bcoting  the  Visitation,  the  MarriogA 
of  the  Virgin,  the  raising  of  her  Body, 
and  her  Assumption.  The  beautiCUI 
painted  glass  of  the  wheel-windon"  wai 
designed  by  Perino  del  Vaga,  and 
executed  by  Paslorino  di  Gioraltni 
Mioheli  of  Siena,  in  1549.  The  ci 
pola  is  an  irregular  faeiagon,  with 
lone  oF  small  pillars  running  round 
the  tympanum.  The  pavement  it 
unique  and  unrivalled  as  a  work  rf 
art  in  its  own  peculiar  class,   bnt 

would  probably  be  better  appreciated 
if  it  could  he  seen  from  above.  It  has 
not  the  tessellation  of  mosaic,  h 
consists  of  a  dark  grey  marble  inlaid 
upon  white,  with  lines  of  shading  re 
■embling  niello.  The  oldest  of  thi-si 
works  are  the  Samson,  Judas  Mac 
cabffus,  Moses,  the  fite  kings  of  the 
Amoriles  taken  in  the  cave  of  Male 
kedah  (Joshua,  i.  IC),  and  tbe  De- 
liverance of  Bethuliah,  by  Dhccio  dt 
Buonintigna :  Absalom  hanging  by 
his  Hair  is  also  attributed  to  "  ' 
master.  The  grandest  composi 
are  those  by  Beceafumi,  particularly 
the  Sacrifice  of  Isaac,  Ihe  Adam  am' 
Eve  alter  the  Pall,  and  the  Moses  oi 
Mount  Sinai,  said  to  have  been  hi 
latest  work.  The  symbols  of  SieoK 
and  her  allied  cities  —  the  Hermes 
Trismegistus  offering    the    Pimandr* 

and  Crates  climbing  the  Mountain  o: 
Virtue,  the  Wheel  of  Fortune,  with 
the  Four  Philosophers  in  the  angles 
are  among  the  most  curious  of  these 
works.  The  original  cartoons  from 
which  Beocafumi  executed  them  have 
been  recently  discovered,  and  are  m 
preserved,  as  we  have  already  staled, 
in  the  Accndemia  delle  Belle  Arte. 
The  roost  recent  are  those  eiec 
at  tbe  close  of  the  siiteeiith 
luiy  ;  arnong  which  are  the  Ten 
1  Sibyis.  TVwt  f-r^ftiiBBm,  ft«  %tnta 
\  Ages  of  Man,  ftie  ftguiw  ot  ^^i'poa 


Pa^  StaJbu^  route  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Siena,    209 


Eutb*   Hope^    and   Charity,  are  by 
Amtamo  Federighi,  who  also  designed 
the  Battle  of  Jephthah,  executed  by 
Battiano  di  Francesco,      The  pave- 
ment of  the  dioii  was  covered  with 
boards  about  two   centuries  ago,  in 
eooMquence  of  the  injury  it  received 
from  the   constant  tread  of  visitors. 
On  great  festivals  the  planks  are  re- 
moved, but  at  other  times  a  fee  of 
two  dollars  will,  obtain  permission  to 
ruse  them  in  order  to  examine  the 
pavement.     In  the  choir  the  carvings 
of  the  stalls  were  begun  in  1387  by 
JFVaMcesco  Tonghi,  and  completed  by 
JBoftoKni  of  Siena  and    BenedetU   of 
Montepulciano,  from  the   designs  of 
JZJeeto  (  Bartolonuneo  Neroni).     The 
high  altar  is  by  Baldcusare  Peruzzi, 
The  magnificent  tabernacle  in  bronze, 
the  work  of  Lorenzo  di  Pietro,  was 
completed  in  1472,  after  a  labour  of 
nine  years.     On  the  consoles  are  eight 
angels  in  bronze,  by  Beccafumi,     The 
petagiMial  pulpit  of  whi^e  marble,  sup- 
ported by  a  circle  of  columns,  one  in 
the  centre  and  eight  around  it,  four 
of  which  rest  on  lions  playing  with 
their  cubs,  is  a  remarkable  work  of 
Niecold  di  Pisa,  with  the  date  1226; 
the  Last  Judgment,   represented  in 
two  of  its  bas-reliefs,  is  perhaps  one  of 
the   finest   productions  of  this  illus- 
trious artist     On  two  pilasters  of  the 
cupola  are  fastened  two  poles  of  the 
Carrocdoy  captured  by  the  Sienese  at 
the  great  battle  of  Monte  Aperto  in 
1260.     On  one  of  the  neighbouring 
altars  is   still  preserved  the  crucifix 
carried  by  the  Sienese  in  this  battle. 
In  the  choir  is  a  painting  by  Duccio 
di  BuoninteffnOf  which    is   extremely 
interesting  in  the  history  of  art ;  it  is 
inscribed  with  his  name,  and  was  so 
highly  prized  at  the  period  of  its  ex- 
ecution, that  it  was  honoured  with  a 
public  procession  like  that  of  Cimabue 
at  Florence.     It  was  originally  painted 
on  both  sides;  but  these  have  been 
separated,  and  arc  both  attached  to 
the  walls  of  the  choir.     One  of  these 
represents  the   Passion  of  Christ  in 
nnaU   eompArtmenta,   and   the   other 
the  Mtdoans  and  Cluld,  with  several 


Saints.     The  Chapel  of  St,  John  the 
Baptist,  a  circular  building,  was.  de- 
signed by  Baldaesare  Peruzzi ;  it  con- 
tains some  bas-reliefs  of  the  history  of 
Adam  and  Eve,  by  Jacopo  delta  QtieT" 
da,  and   the  statue  of  St.  John  by 
Donatella,   beside  several  ornamentid 
works  by   Sienese  sculptors  of  less 
eminence.     In  this  chapel  is  said  to 
be  preserved  the  relic  of  the  Baptist's 
arm,  presented  by  Thomas  Palaeologus 
to  Pius  II.     The  CapeBa  del  Voto,  or 
the  Chigi  Chapel,  built  by  Alexander 
VII.,  is  rich  in  lapis  lazuli,  marbles^ 
and  gilding.     It  contains  a  statue  of 
St.  Jerome  and  a  Magdalen  by  Bernini, 
who  is  said  to  have  transformed  the 
latter  from  a  statue  of  Andromeda; 
St  Catherine  and  St  Bernardino  are 
by  his  pupils  Raggi  and  Erode  Fer- 
rata,  who  also  executed  the  statue  df 
the  Pope  from  Bernini's  designs.   The 
Visitation  is   a  copy  in  mosaic  of  a 
picture   by   Carlo  Maratta,   and   the 
St.  Bernardino  is  by  Cav,  Calabreee, 
Opposite  the  Chigi  Chapel  is  the  room 
called  the  Library,  decorated  with  ten 
frescoes,  illustrating  different  events  in 
the  life  of  Pius  II.  (^neas  Sylvius); 
outside  is  an  eleventh,  representing 
the  coronation  of  his  nephew  Pius  III. 
These  works,  which  are  particularly 
remarkable    ifor    the   preservation   of 
their  colours,  were  painted  as  a  com- 
mission from  the  latter  pontiff  when 
Cardinal  Piccolomini,  by  Pinturicchio, 
assisted  by  the   advice   of  Raphael, 
then  in  his  twentieth  year,  who  fur- 
nished  some  of  the  designs,  two  of 
which  are  still  preserved — one  at  Flo- 
rence, the  other  in  the  Casa  Baldeschi 
stt  Perugia.     An  examination  of  these 
beautiful  drawings  would  afford  the 
best  proof  that  Raphael  did  not  paint 
any  one  of  these  frescoes,  as  the  Sienese 
pretend.     The  roof  is  covered  with 
mythological  pictures.     In  the  library 
is  also  preserved  the  exquisite  antique 
group  of  the  Graces  in  Greek  marble, 
found  under   the  foundations  in  the 
thirteenth  century.     This  group,  one 
of   the    finest    kwowti    «i.?L\w\\si&   cjl 
Grecian  wuVvtuxe,    -««»  ^o\f\^  Vj 
Canova,  and.  'waa  %o  iCLuOtv  ^Awax^^*' 


-■1i{«™«99. 


>  ROME.— fA'imai-  -f  SeetkT. 


vioiir.and  Uia  St.  John  beforu  Hemd, 
by  Lorenio  Chibrrli  ;  the  Banijuet  of 
Herod,  by  Pi'etm  /toUo^Wa.anablc  Flu- 
reotiae  «:u!pti>r  and  golitnnith  of  [he 
I jlh  century;  Iho  St,  Joaoliim  by  2>o. 
itatttto  1  the  Bitlh  of  Si.  John,  and  his 
Freachiuginthe  DeseTt,  by  JrukipoiltUa 
Qucrtia.  The  marble  bas-rdiets  In 
the  taberiiaale  ore  by  Lonnzo  di  Pietro 
CV«ochietW), 

Siiveial  of  the  churches  in  Siata. 
GabritU  are  remukable  for  their  pointiDgi. 
itotld  of  Siena  ;  one  of  the  missals  Tiie  Church  of  S.  Apoatine,  rostared 
il  iUuminated  by  Libtrala  o(  Verona.  |  and  finished  by  Vanvitelli,  iuj  ■  beaa. 
The  collection  was  formerly  much  |  tiful  Nativity,  by  Sodoma ,  a  fine 
lugcr,  but  many  of  111  em  vere  carried  i  Christ  at  the  CtOM,  by  Pengiiuis  the 
to  Spain   by  Cardinal  Burgos.      Two  |  Massacre    of  the    Innocents,    a   cele- 


JLiphael  lliBt  be  made  a  sketch  of  it, 
which  is  still  preserved  in  theAcsdemy 
of  VQiiLce.  It  is  also  supposed  to 
tu'a  suggested  Iha  picture  of  the 
Graces  by  lUipbael,  formerly  in  Sir 
Tliscnai  Ijiwrence'*  collection,  and 
afterwards  in  that  of  the  late  Lord 
Dudley.  The  oboir  books,  wbiohgive 
the  name  of  library  to  this  apajtmeiil, 

Matav,  a  Benedic-  I 


I 


ia  to  a  farmer  governor,  Giulio  Bi- 
•nehi,  by  TencTani ,-  the  other  lo 
Afaieagni,  the  anatomist,  by  liicci. 
Another  and  more  interesting  monu- 
ment ia  that  of  Bandlno  Bandlai,  rc- 
nurkable  for  a  sUtue  of  Christ  lisen 
(tora  the  dead,  a  Seraph,  and  two 
Angels  by  Slichatl  Angela  in  his  early 
y<Hitb.  There  ii  also  h  bronie  bas' 
relief  on  tbe  floor  of  the  church  by 
DoHalrUo,  covering  the  grave  of  Gio- 
vanni Peeci,  bishop  of  Giosseto.  Of 
the  two  vDscs  for  holy  vater,  one  is 
an  ancient  candelabrum,  covered  with 
mythological  sculptures;  Iha  other  is 
an  able  work  of  Jueopo  iW/u  Quereia. 
^Dia  Sacruly  contains  several  small 
;|nnures  attributed  to  Dkmi'o  ili  flufl- 
mmugHO,  and  one  by  Pittro  LoriniiUi, 
-  Under  the  cathedral,  or  rather  under 
tbe  eboir,  is  the  ancient  Bapliitcry,  now 
Ihb  church  of  St.  John  tbe  Baptist  j  a 
long  ILight  of  st<^  descends  ioto  it. 
Jis  front  is  a  much  purer  Gothic  than 
the  catliedral ;  the  floor  bears  the  date 
ofl4a(;,  "  Itspilastcrsarapannelledin 
lozenges,  alternately  with  quaUefuils, 
lieadsofSe.  Johnthe  Baptist,  and  lions' 
heads  exrjulsitcly  beautiful.  Itt  in- 
terior is  very  shallow,  and  to  the  north 
of  it  a  lofiy  flight  of  steps  leads 
through  a  bcautiAil  marble  gate,  in  the 
pointed  sly\e,  to  the  piaitt  of  the 
duomo.  " —  //opi.  Among  the  beauti- 
■'  the  font,   in.  gUl 


.:  Baptism,  of  tint  S»-J  Dwvtet.PaisA.  i 


bralcd  picture  by  itfattro  da 
CammuniunofStJeTome,  by^'ermsa,- 
tlie  St.  Jerome  by  Spagnoltlta  ,  and  the 
Baptism  of  Constantine  by  Fnmeaia 
ronai.  The  adjniuitig  Cunveat  is  now 
appropriated  totlio  use  of  the  Tolomei 
college,  and  tbe  Academy  degl'  In- 
nominati. 

La.  Coacuiione,  a  fine  eburah  from 
the  designs  of  Baldasnare  Peruui,  has 
a  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  flernar- 
lA'no  Fvngai,  two  Annunciations,  by 
FmmeKO  roBBi;  a  Maasaora  of  di 
Innocents,  by  l-iaUea  di,  Gioraaid :  the 
Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  by  MutuUi; 
ands  good  Nativity,  by  Caioloai,  whoK 
works  in  Siena  were  so  much  adcaiied 
by  Guido  that  he  said  painting  had 
taken  refuge  in  Casolaui. 

San  CTiitojbrt,  a  small  church,  mo- 
deriused  in  180<X  has  a  fine  Modomu, 
with  St.  Paul  and  the  Beato  Bemarda, 
by  PacchiaroUo, 

The  conventual  church  of  tbe  Car- 
mine, is  remarkable  for  its  steeple  and 
cloisters,  by  Baldassare  Peruzii.  Tfae 
Madonna  throned  in  the  choir,  is  by 
Beraardim  Fungai,  1503.  Tbe  St. 
Michael  is  by  Btccaf^mit  the  JUaf- 
tyrdom  of  St.  Barthtdomev,  by  Ca$o- 
tani;  the  Nativity  wasbcgunbyKiitcio, 
and  flnisbed  by  Arcanpilo  SalimbtaL 
In  the  court  of  the  convent  is  a  de^ 
veil,  called  tbe  Pouo  di  Ciuna,  wliieh 
WHS  believed  to  communicate  with  the 
fal>u\t)ua  itane  of  'O'tuna^  -cidiQuled  by 


i.V 


Pijg^  StaiesJ}  1ioutk26. — Florence  to  noME.-r-iS'/ena.    211 


SSem  Domenico,  begun  in  1220  and 
not  Bnished  till  1465,  is  an  interesting 
«id  imposing  edifice,  seventy-five  feet 
wide;  spanned  by  a  point^  arch  of 
singular  boldness,  which  sustains  the 
transepts^  and  is  well  worthy  the  study 
of  arcfaiteeta.     Among  its  pictures  are 
the  celebrated  Madonna  by  Guido  da 
ShttOf  with  the  date   1221,  nineteen 
years  before  the  birth  of  Cimabue,  on 
the  strength  of  which  the  Sienese  claim 
the  honour  of  being  the  earliest  school 
of  art ;  a  Crucifix,  attributed  to  Giotto 
(?) ;  a  Madonna  and  Saints,  with  a  dead 
Christ  in  the  lunette  above,  by  Matteo 
da  Sfena,  dated  1479;  a  Crucifixion,  by 
Fmtura  Salinibem;  tbe  Martyrdom  of 
SL  Peter,  by  Arctmgdo  SaUmheni  i  the 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  by  Luoa 
Signordli  ;  the  Nativity  of  the  Virgin, 
bj  Casolam,  On  one  side  of  the  altar  is 
the  fine  picture  of  St  Catherine  faint- 
ing in  the  anns  of  two  nuns  at  tbe 
appearance  of  the  Saviour,  by  Sodofnag 
on  the  other  side  of  tbe  altar  is  St.  Ca- 
therine in  ecstasy,  and  the  Almighty, 
with  the  Madonna  and  Child,  attended 
bj  angels,  appearing  to  her.    The  De- 
moniac is  by  FranctMco  Vanni,  and  tbe 
portrait  of  St.  Catherine  is  by  her  friend 
and  correspondent,  jindrea  di  Vanni, 
Galled  by  Lansi  the  Uubens  of  bis  age. 
The  marble  tabernacle  and  the  two 
Angels  are  attributed  to  Michael  An» 

yete  (?). 

San  FranctscOt  a  fine  and  spacious 
church  built  from  the  designs  of  Angelo 
and  Agostino  da  Siena,  contains  a 
maalerpieccof  Sodoma^  the  Deposition, 
which  Annibale  Caracci  admired  so 


picture  admired  by  Lanzi,  that  he'says 
Feruzzi  **gave  it  so  divine  an  enthu- 
siasm, that  Raphael  treating  the  same 
subject,  as  well  as  Guido  and  Guercino, 
whose  sibyls  are  so  often  met  with, 
probaUy  never  surpassed  it."  The 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  is  an  admired 
work  of  Benuardino  Fungai,  The  marble 
altar,  sculptured  in  1517  by  Mazzini, 
is  an  elaborate  and  beautifiil  work. 
Among  the  ex-voto  offerings  preserved 
in  this  church  are  a  sword,  a  small 
wooden  shield  bound  with  iron,  and  a 
large  whale-bone  consecrated  to  the 
Madonna  of  Fonte  Giusta  by  Co- 
lumbus on  his  return  to  Europe. 

San  Giorgio  contains  the  tomb  of 
Francesco  Vanni,  the  painter.  The 
tower  has  thirty-eight  windows,  said  to 
allude  to  the  thirty-eight  companies 
which  fisught  at  the  great  battle  of 
Monte  Aperto.  The  bell  of  the  Car- 
roccio,  called  the  Martinella,  captured 
from  the  Florentines,  was  also  preserved 
here  as  a  memorial  of  that  decisive 
victory. 

San  Giovannino  in  Pantaneto,  is  re- 
markable for  the  tomb  of  Francesco 
Gori  Gandellini,  one  of  the  rich  mer- 
chants of  Siena,  at  whose  request  Alfieri 
wrote  his  "  Congiura  de*  Fazzi."  The 
poet  commemorates  the  virtues  of  his 
friend  not  only  in  a  Latin  epitaph  on 
his  tomb,  but  in  his  sonnets,  where  he 
touchingly  does  honour  to  his  mental 
qualities,  and  to  their  mutual  friend- 
ship: — 

"  O  folo- 
Vero  omico  ch'io  aveui  al  mondo  inai." 

Sta.  Lvcia,  the  church  of  a  Confra- 


much  as  to  say  he  found  few  pictures  |  tcmita  of  the  same  name,  has  a  very 
equal  to  it.  The  Holy  Fathers  in  j  fine  picture  of  the  Death  of  the  Saint, 
Purgatory  is  by  Beccafumi.  I  by  Franeetco  Vanni. 

Fonte  Giuata,  a  church  built  in  com-  I  Sta.  Maria  di  Frovenzano,  built  in 
meinoration  of  the  victory  of  Siena  over  ,  the  16th  century,  contains  at  Annun- 
Florence  in  1482,  contains  the  cele- !  oiation,  by  Au«eicAtifo  (  Francesco  llus- 
brated  picture  by  Baldaseare  Feruzzi,  |tici),  praised  by  Lanzi;  and  a  Holy 


representing  the  Sibyl  announcing  to 
Augustus  the  birth  of  Christ,  a  noble 
painting,  justly  regarded  as  the  master- 
piece of  this  accomplitihed  artist.  The 
Sibyl  in  a  sublime  and  expressive  figure, 
but  tbe  other  part*  of  the  composition 
snf  twt  iijual  to  it  So  highly  was  this 


Family,  long  attributed,  but  errone- 
ously, to  Andrea  del  Sarto. 

San   Martina,  a   handsome  church 
with  a  front  built  by  Giovanni  Fon- 
tana,  of  Cosmo,  axv  ttiv;Vv\\Ac\Q!lV^<^V\^ 
century,  and  not,  aa  \t  VvtaXs^wEi  ^''k^- 
po9ed,by  bis  g^eatiMLme«BJk^\Mi\o«s»>^»' 


E 


TiocTS  '28. — PEoiiENcE  Td  Hn«t. — Siena.     fSfett.T: 


Ic  !ar  the  Cln 


r..b, 


!da,  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  halt 

lonieir,  Ly  Gvereino,  Tor  vhieli  he  was 

portly  piid  iupdiiizB,or  plush,  for  ihe 

nianufiiclUTe  of  which  Sieim  was  then 

the  Vie- 

.ribe  SieaeseittUe  Porta  Cimollu 

1536,  is  by  Loraao   Cmi.      There 


itrcia,  which 


mlia 

by  Jutopa  rfci 

been  coloured 

Son  Fiulo  has  s  fioc  Aseenaiun  by 

^laii(Ha,thecleverpupi1of3edonM. 

Sim  Pfefm  in  Cartel  Vwchio  has  an 

lumption,  by  Ruitichlno ;  and  b  Re- 

if  Ihe  Holy  Family,  one  of  the 

'orki  of  Mmiclli,  who  is  buried  in 

this  cliurch. 

S'aH  PiVtro  ab  Ocile  has  a  goad  work 
of  Pentnra  Salimbeni,  the  D>.'ath  of  St. 
Joseph,  and  ■  Holy  Family,  hyFolli. 

San  QviricB,  in  the  highest  part  of 
die  town,  supposed  to  occupy  the  site 
oTa  Temple  of  Romulus,  has  two  6ne 
worka  by  Franeaea  Viaai,  the  Flight 
out  of  Egypt,  and  the  Ecce  Homo. 
The  Deposition,  by  Camlasi,  and  some 
beantiliil  angels  by  Salimben!,  arc  hIhi 
lo  be  noticed. 

San  Spirito,  with  a  noble  doorway 
1>;  Baldiusate  Peruiii,  has  aorne  Has 

Uodonna  throned  with  Sainti,  by  So- 
To\a  subjects  froi 


^^^mta;  Rjui  SI 
^ni  Jacinto,  b 
^^Kb  Craeifixii 
^^■l.  JohD,  and 

i^^nation  of  the 


I,  by  Satitabrii: ;  a  Fceuoof  luf  Vi 


house  of  SL  Cstherinc  of  Siena,  ai 
thcancietitFullomcaorherbther.H'l 
was  a  dyer  and  fuller.  In  the  latter  a 
the  Si.  Catherine  receiving  the  Stig- 
mata, by  Sodiimai  her  Pilgrimage  tc 
(he  tomb  of  St.  Agnes  af  Montepul- 
ciano,  by  PaeehiaroUo ,-  and  hor  pur- 
suit by  tbo  Florentines,  by  Ftatutc 
SatirHbatL  la  the  house  are  repre- 
sentations of  various  marvellous  eventi 
ia  the  life  of  the  Saint  by  ranw,  Serri, 
Wfliini,  Ac,  and  the  Miraculous  Cru- 
eifli,  by  Giunta  da  Pita,  from  whish 
the  church  tradition  states  that  s!k 
received  Ihe  Stigmata. 

The  oratory  of  San  Benmrdino  ia  rich 
in  paintings,  among  which  may  be  spe- 
cified the  Visitation,  the  Presentation 
in  the  Temple,  the  Assumptiou 
the  St.  Louis,  remarkable  works  by 
Sodoma ;  the  Annunciation  and  the 
Nativity  of  the  Virgin,  rery  graceful 
works,  by  Facchiarollo;  the  Spoaliiio, 
hj  Bcecafumi !  the  Dying- Woman  and 
three  Angels,  by  MantUi ;  the  Virgin, 
St.  Catheiine,  and  St  Bernardin,  by 
Francaea  Fanni/  and  several  Miraclei 
of  the  Sflint,  by  Feiilura  SaffTnern^ 
[n  the  Sacristy  is  a  bas-relief  of  the 
Virgin  with  St.  John  the  Baptist  and 
two  Angels,by  Giocannt'iiaSfena.  The 
Oratory  of  S,  Giuttppt,  designed  by 
Baldassare  Peruiii,  has  a  very  beauti- 
ful Madonna  by  SarloBii,  the  pupil 


!  Madon 
!  Magdalen,  by  Fri 


lation  of  the  Virgin,  by  FaechiaroUo  i 
H.  Jacinto,  by  Franctico  Farmi. 

The  Church  of  Sla.  Miria  dt'  Strvi 
has  some  frescoes  of  the  old  Sienese 
masters,  a  Madonna  throned,  by  Dirt!- 
«aii<i,IS81';  a  Madonna,  over  the  door 
of  the  Saciisly,  by  BomiBentura  da 
Sinia,  1319;  and  others  by  Grrgorioda 
Siena,  H£0. 

1/1  TriHild  is  remarkable  far  its  fine 
ceiling  by  Pindiro  Sali/nbeai ;  a  Ma- 
donna by  Mallio  di  GiaBanni  i  and  the 
V}ctorj  ofClovisover  Alaric,  by  Baf- 

■Oftbe  nuoKtaua  0™(oriw,  the  most 


of  S./1I 
>f  Mmetti,  the  Madonna, 
St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  several 
saints.  The  Oratory  deOa  S 
interesting  example  of  the  arc 
at  Ffruml ;  it  contains  an  E 
by  Prirazzi,  and  a   St.  Sebi 

The  Palazza  Pubblica,  with  its  lofty 
tower    DfUa  Maagia,    star  '      '       ' 
Pia»a  del  Campo,  a  large 
more  nearly  resembling  the 
escalop   shell    than   anything  else  to 
been  compared.     It 
■       -")fee 

leatre  for 


I  sloped  like 


ing  are   those   oocupying  Ihejfecfly  in  acooTdance- 


Pi^l  Siaies,'}  routs  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Siefia.    213 


republican  greatness  than  the  aspect 
and  arrangement  of  this  forum ;  it 
vas  the  scene  of  many  popular  tumults 
during  the  middle  ages,  and  derives 
its  name,  **  del  campo,"  from  the  pas- 
sage of  Dante : 

**  Qoando  virea  frfiH  glorioso,  disse, 
liberamente  nel  Campo  di  Siena.l 
Ogni  vergogna  deposta,  si  aflSsse." 

Ptirg.  xi. 

It  is  now  the  scene  of  the  annual 
horse 'race,  called  the  Palio,  which 
takes  place  on  the  1 5th  August,  and 
is  contested  by  the  several  wards  of 
the  city  with  a  spirit  of  rivalry  which 
recalls  the  factions  of  ancient  Rome. 
The  Loggia  di  San  Paoio,  built  in 
1417  by  the  merchants  of  the  city,  and 
now  called  the  Casino  <fe'  Nobili,  was 
remarkable  in  the  middle  ages  as  the 
most  impartial  commercial  tribunal  in 
Italy;  its  laws  were  recognised  by 
nearly  all  the  other  republics,  and  its 
decisicHis  were  cpnsidered  equally  bind- 
ing. Tlie  marble  seat  was  designed 
by  Pleruzzi.  The  statues  of  St.  Peter 
and  St  Paul  are  by  Antonio  Federighi; 
the  S.  Vittore  knd  S.  Ansano  are  by 
Urhano  da  Cortona  ;  the  latter  is  said 
to  have  been  much  admired  by  Michael 
Angelo. 

The  Palazzo  Pubblico  was  begun  in 
1295  and  finished  in  1327,  from  the 
designs  of  Angelo  and  Agostino  da 
Siena ;  it  is  now  converted  into  public 
offices,  courts  of  law,  and  prisons.  The 
chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  was 
built  to  commemorate  the  cessation  of 
the  plague  of  1348,  which  carried  off 
80,000  persons.  The  halls  of  the  an- 
cient tribunal  di  Biccherna,  instituted 
for  the  management  of  the  taxes  and 
civil  affairs  of  the  republic,  contain 
numerous  paintings  of  the  native 
school :  among  these  are  the  Madonna 
with  saints,  by  Sodomaj  and  the  Coro- 
nation of  the  Virgin,  by  Pietro  Loren- 
tettif  in  1345.  The  ceiling  is  painted 
chiefly  by  Petrazzi:  the  principal  sub- 
jects are  the  Coronation  of  Pius  II., 
the  Donation  of  lladicofani  by  the 
same  pope,  and  the  privileges  con- 
ferred  by  him  on  his  adopted  city. 
77ie  Sa/M  delle  Balcstre  is  covered 


with  frescoes  by  Jmbrogio  Lorenzetti 
(1338),  illustrating  the  results  of  good 
and  bad  government.  The  Sala  del 
gran  Consiglio  contains  the  immense 
fresco  of  the  Madonna  and  Child  with 
saints  under  a  baldacchino,  the  poles 
of  which  are  held  by  the  apostles  and 
patrons  of  the  city,  by  Sermino  di  Si- 
mone,  in  1287,  retouched  by  Simojie 
Memmi  (di  Martino)  in  1321.  The 
fresco  in  chiaro-scuro,  representing 
Guido  Ricci  at  the  assault  of  Monte 
Massi,^is  attributed  to  Simone  Memmi^ 
and  is  curious  for  the  great  variety  of 
military  engines  introduced.  The  S. 
Ansan,  S.  Victor,  and  S.  Bemardin, 
are  by  Sodoma.  The  adjoining  Chapel 
is  covered  with  very  graceful  and  ex- 
pressive frescoes,  illustrating  the  his- 
tory ofthe  Virgin,  by  Taddeo  Bartolo; 
the  altarpiece'of  the  Holy  Family  and 
S.  Calisto  is  by  Sodoma.  The  adjoin- 
ing room  has  a  curious  gallery  of  por- 
traits of  illustrious  persons,  republicans 
and  others,  among  whom  Cicero,  Cato, 
heathen  gods,  and  warriors  are  found 
ranged  with  Judas  Maccabseus  and 
St.  Ambrose ;  they  are  also  by  Taddeo 
Bartoh  (1414).  In  the  Sala  del  Con- 
sistorio,  the  roof  painted  by  Beccafvmif 
and  so  much  admired  by  Vasari  and 
Lanzi,  represents  the  burning  of  the 
enemies  of  Rome ;  the  walls  are  hung 
with  portraits  of  eight  popes  and 
thirty-nine  cardinals,  natives  of  the 
city.  The  paintings  of  SpineUo  Aretino 
are  also  remarkable:  they  represent 
the  leading  &cts  in  the  history  of 
Frederick  Barbarossa  and  Alexander 
III.,  from  their  first  election  to  the 
triumph  of  the  pope  over  the  emperor» 
and  their  final  reconciliation. 

The  archives,  which  were  stolen  by 
the  French  and  restored  at  the  peace, 
contain  an  invaluable  collection  of 
state  papers  during  the  republican 
times,  some  of  which  are  illustrated 
with  miniatures. 

llie  council-chamber  was  converted 
into  a  theatre  from  the  designs  of  Bibi-^ 
ena :  operas  are  occasionally  performed 
here.  The  tower,  called  dtlla  Afaugia^ 
begun  in  IS^o,  V&  saX^  \a  \\«svh  \iji«cc 
greatly  adiiuxe^\>^*  "L^owax^o  ^«N  vc^sv-* 


lo  ceme  hue  to  einmine  its  aisi-|hu   h  eel[G<>^n  oT  painters   b;   the 
rnclion  ■□  1 50%-  6ien«e  moslerB,  the  mosE  interesting 

The  FoVain,  eaWed  the  FonleGaja,  \o!  which  U  tlm  Christ  ID  the  Gi    ' 
rellie  name  "della  Fontc " to  JuiwpD .  b^  SaAima,     The  Palaito  Buonf 
"    "        "        ■  '  ■'  "      is  a  fine  eiample  of  Gothic,  viUi  a 

terra-cotta  from.  The  Paiiao  fSccab- 
mixi  bBi  two  hdUfl  painteil  li;  Scntiard 
van  Orhy,  a  Taiourite  pupil  of  Raphael. 
The  Folazio  Piecoloiainro,  noi 
oflhc 


TOBrLable  i 


bBc-reliL'!^  representing  isrious  sul 

IJeoti  af  Scripture  history,  now  unfoi 
-tmiiltely  damaged.     The  subterranean 
I  aquediiols  which  tupply  it  occupied 
■iwo  ccniuries  in  their  constr 
fod  are  fifteen  miles  in  length. 
related  that  ChRrles  V„  when 
amined  lliern,  declared  thai  Sie 

ground. 

Amoiife  the  many 
Which  hive  taken  plitce 
fhe  nnniiiary  paniahinenl  of  Charle 
IV.  for  his  Mtempt  to  sciie  the  aig 
noria  in  1 369  is  uot  the  least  singular 
Tlie  people  on  the  firrt  msnifestaiioi 
dThis  design  broke  into  the  palace  ii 
vhieh  he  was  lodged,  disarmed  hi 
fallowers,  and  left  him  alone  in  thi 
«]uare,  "  addressing  himself  in  turn  t< 
the  Hrmed  troops  which  dosed  the  en 
trance  of  evety  street,  and  which,  im 
moveable  and  «]ent,  remained 


1  all  his 


t  Itw, 


ItiM 
hunger  that 


he  b^nn  to  mifTer  fioi 

Ms  equipages  were  reamrea  to  iiiiu, 

■nd    he  w«s  permitted  to   leave  the 

The  Palacei  of  Siena  arc  more  re- 
markahle  as  examples  of  the  domestic 
architeclure  of  the  middle  apes,  than 
for  the  woriis  of  »rt  which  they  eon- 
tun.  TTiey  present  almost  eycry  va-  i  were  roasted  with  Area  made  of  clove*, 
riety  of  simplo  and  compound  Gothic,  |  and  their  horses  -were  shod  with  silver. 
—  that  peculiar  style  which  marks  all  |  Dsnte  has  perpetuated  the  memory  of 
the  worts  of  AgoWino  and   Angelo,    these  young  prodigals  in  the  twt 


in  the  city,  is  remarkable  fiw  il 
gant  loggia,  Iniilt  by  Pius  IL   from 
the  designs  of  Francaca  di  Giorgio. 
The  Paliiszo  PaitnaJiiii,  supposed  f    ' 
the  design  of  Baldassare  Penizii, 
tains  some  mythological 


trihuted  t 


iV/i»,  alia 

i.theprincipal  of  whielt 
arc  the  Sui  .      ^  ■  ■  .     ■ 

Ing  of  Troy,  with  the  Judgment 
of  I'sris,  efterwardi  altered  lo  reprc- 
t  the  history  of  Lot.  The  Umaa 
SeecafHmi,  a  small  brick  buildisf 
cted  by  himself,  is  interesting  among 
other  records  of  the  Siencse  school : 
it  in  the  itrcet  still  called  "del 
Maestri,"  from  the  nnmbe 

occupied  it  during  the  flourishing 
«  of  the  republic.  Opposite  tha 
f  building  erected  by  the  mai 
n  of  Siena  for  dveing  cloth 
Moe  of  the  Bripafa  ^Kndm 
'  Godereoeia,"  a  club  of  ; 
men,  whose  chief  object  was  to  collect 
a  purse  of  B00,000  duel 


]  great  architects  of 
public.  A  few  of  these  have  small 
gaUeries  of  paintings  by  the  naiivo 
Mfaool,  but  they  present  the  worhs  of 
lew  masters  who  may  not  he  better 
studied   in  the  churches  already  de- 

The  Palaao  dtl  Mapnifico,  with  its 

Cne  broniE  ornaments  and  rings,  cast 

bj  MuEzini  and  Coziarelli,  is  remark. 

aWff  as  having  been  erected  in  1504 

Ap  PandoUo  Petruoct,  llie  celebrated 

tjninloF  Siena,    The  Pataao  Saratinx 


ninth  chapter  of  thi 

Near  the  I^ccolomini  Palace  is  the 
Fantt  di  Fulloiiica,  begun  in  1249,  and 
presented  to  the  city  by  the  native  ar- 
chitect Francesco  di  Giorgio  in  14894 
The  ancient  Gothic  F<mlt  Srowjo,  con- 
structed by  Bellammo  in  1193  at  the 
command  of  the  consuls  of  Sieua,  is 
immorulised  by  Danlsr 


lie,-; 


Papal  SiaieSk]  route  26. — florbkce  to  home — Siena.  215 


It  is,  however,  donbtAil  whether  its 
podtkm  corresponds  with  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  poet  The  Fonia  Nuova, 
built  in  15159)  is  also  a  remarkable 
work.] 

Many  of  the  houses  in  Siena  present 
apccimens  of  street  painting.  On  the 
tomb  of  the  Casa  Mensini  is  a  Pietfi  bj 
Fotti;  on  that  of  the  Casa  Bambacini 
is  a  Pieti  by  Sodomiij  much  admired 
by  Vasari,  and  a  Madonna  with  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  by  Ptntzxi.  On  the 
Casa  Nastasi  is  a  painting  in  chiaro- 
•curo  by  Giaeonw  dd  Capanna, 

The  Univertity,  which  dates  from 
ISOSy  has  considerably  fallen  off  in 
recent  years.  It  contains  the  tomb  of 
the  celebrated  jurist  Nicolao  Arring- 
hicri  (1374)^  remarkable  for  its  bas- 
reliefs,  and  attributed  by  Cieognara  to 
Goto  di  Gregorio  da  Siena. 

The  Library  occupies  the  great  hall 
of  the  Accademia  degli  Intronati,  con- 
sidered to  be  the  oldest  in  Europe. 
This  academy  was  one  of  the  most 
flunoDs  among  the  sixteen  for  which 
Siena  was  remarkable  in  the  sixteenth 
and  seventeenth  centuries.  Indeed,  so 
great  was  tlie  passion  of  the  citizens 
for  academics,  that  one  for  females, 
called  I)elle  Assicurate,  was  founded 
herein  1654  by  the  Grand  Duchess 
Vittoria.  The  library  contains  about 
40,000  volumes,  and  5000  MSS.  The 
most  ancient  of  the  latter  are  theGreek 
gospels  of  the  eighth  or  ninth  century, 
with  miniatures,  originally  in  the  Im- 
perial Chapel  at  Constantinople,  and 
purchased  at  Venice  on  the  fall  of  the 
Greek  empire  for  the  great  hospital  of 
this  city.  An  Italian  prose  translation 
of  the  '*  ^neid,**  of  the  thirteenth 
oenturv,  is  curious  as  one  of  the  earliest 
examples  of  Italian  versions  of  the  clas- 
rics.  llie  **  Ordo  officiorum  Sencnsis 
Eeclesiie  '*  is  remarkable  for  its  minia- 
tures of  1 91  a  by  Oderigi  da  Gvbbio,  the 
friend  of  Dante,  who  has  immortalised 
him  in  a  fine  passage  of  the  **  Paradiso,** 
quoted  in  a  previous  page. 

The  manuscript  notes  of  Francesco 

di  Giorgio  on  architecture  and  engi- 

ncerir;^,  Wustrmted  with  drawingSf  are 

exceedingly  eurJous;  (iie  engineer  will 


find  them  full  of  valuable  suggestions, 
many  of  which  were  adopted  at  a  later 
period  in  military  tactics  by  Pietro 
Navarra  and  others,  who  appropriated 
the  merit  of  their  discovery .  Two  ob- 
jects of  even  higher  interest  are  the 
portfolios  of  Baldassare  Peruzzi  and 
Giuliano  Sangallo.  Both  of  them 
contain  sketches,  ornaments,  and  ar- 
chitectural subjects;  among  those  of 
the  former  is  the  original  study  for 
the  Sibyl  in  the  church  of  Fonte 
Giusta. 

Among  the  autograph  letters  pre- 
served here  are  those  of  St.  Catherine 
of  Siena,  Metastasio,  and  Socinus. 
The  letters  of  St.  Catherine  are  in  the 
handwriting  of  an  amanuensis,  as  she 
could  not  write;  they  bear  stronger 
evidence  of  the  frenzy  of  enthusiasm 
than  any  other  example  in  the  history 
of  the  Roman  church,  and  many  of 
them  are  quite  irreconcil cable  with 
Protestant  ideas  of  propriety.  Her 
works,  including  some  of  the  letters, 
poems,  and  devotional  pieces,  were 
published  in  1707,  in  four  volumes, 
4to.  In  striking  contrast  to  the  fer- 
vour of  her  letters  are  those  of  Faus- 
tus  and  Laelius  Socinus,  the  impious 
founders  of  the  Socinian  hercsv,  who 
were  also  natives  of  Siena.  The  letters 
of  Metastasio,  beautifully  written,  will 
interest  those  who  read  the  character 
of  a  man  in  his  handwriting :  many  of 
them  have  been  published. 

The  Hospital  (Spedale  di  SanU 
Maria  della  Scala),  a  spacious  Gothic 
building,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
hospitals  in  Europe ;  it  was  founded 
by  Fra  Sorore,  an  Augustin  monk,  in 
832.  It  contains  upwards  of  300  beds, 
and  has  in  late  years  derived  great 
honour  from  the  pathological  dis- 
coveries of  Mascagni,  one  of  its  most 
distinguished  professors.  The  Church 
attached  to  it  dates  from  the  middle 
of  the  fifteenth  century  ;  it  has  five 
remarkable  frescoes  by  Domenico  Bar^ 
/o/o,  representing,  1.  Several  saints  and 
patriarchs ;  2.  llie  Life  of  the  Beato 
Agostino  NovgUo\  ^.  TVi«  \tv^v\^«Cktft 
granted  to  tW  \Vo5vi\Vi\  >a^  0^«i!c«w 
III.;  4.  TVieMMt\a^^o^\V*^«^w^* 


B017TI  96,-^rLOKUIIOX  TO  IK)MK.-i-iKNNt.         {A 


tiW»idcu»orSLpMi  5.  Acts  of  Charity 
'■  Ibe  Sick  and  Infirm.  The 
laintiag  of  the  Pool  of  Bethcsdi 
'  Scbailiano  Conca  i  the  biu-relief 
le  ilesd  body  of  Christ  is  by  Giu- 
w  Maixuoia  of  Vallerrti,  a  sculplnr 
.  be  Usl  cenlury  ;  the  bronie  slBtue 
of  the  Saviour  at  the  high  oltu  is  by 
LamzD  di  Piiiro  <  Veecliietta). 

The  Galea  tit  Sienft  are  in  many  re- 
■peeti  remarkable ;  wG  bave  already 
stated  thnt  during  the  flouriahing  pe- 
riod of  its  hlitory  the  city  was  entered  , 
by  no  less  than  thirty-nine  galci,  of, 
wbich  all  but  eight  are  now  closed.  | 
nost  interesting  of  these  are  the 
I  CamoUia.  alretdy  described  ; ' 
t  Porta  San  Viene;  and  the  Porta 
The  P.  San  Vitm,  or  di 
^nl,  takes  its  name  fi-om  the  ei- 
nutions  of  the  people  during  the 
■olemn  entry  of  the  body  of  St.  Ansan, 
which  TBS  welcomed  by  a  public  pro- 
Cession  of  the  citizens  shouting  "  II 
■anto  viene."  The  gate  was  built  by 
Mociio  in  isae,  and  is  ornamentcil  by 
a  Nativliy  by  Sodoma.  The  Futlu 
JtonoHi,  built  in  l3S^  by  Agoslino 
anil  Augelodn  Siena,  is  an  interesting 

like  San  Viene,  it  has  also  its  painting 
—  the  CiirooalioD  of  the  Virgin,  by 

SiBiBdi  Pi*e(ra.in  1433. 
The  Ciladd  at  Sena  was  built  by 

Cosmo  I.  in  the  form  of  a  pentagon 
with  fice  bastions ;  it  is  at  t' 

The  Llsza,  celebrated  b;  Allieri  for 

of  a  fortress  erected  by  Charlca  V.  in 
1551,  and  destroyed  by  the  citizens;  it 
is  ornamented  with  statues,  and  is  the 
favourite  walk  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  great  festival  of  Siena  is  that  iu 
honour  of  St,  Catherine.  'IVis  popular 
saint  wasthc  daughter  of  a  dyer  I  she 
was  horn  in  1347,  and  look  the  vows 
when  only  eight  years  of  age.      Her 

high  a  repute,  thnt  i^hc  succeeded  in 
inducing  Gregory  XI,  to  remove  the 
Ifol}-  See  /roia  A  vignon  afle'r  it  had 
been  ffteil  there  liirseycnti  jean.  She 
ilieii  ill    ISSO,    and   was  canonised  in 


was  bom 

in 

1380  J  be 

oined  the 

Francis 

cans. 

br 

whom  he 

a  mil 

to  the  Hoi, 

I.and.     On 

h 

founded 

nd  1 

ed 

in    1444. 

HiEWMks, 

Q  four 

volumes 

4 to.,  mre 

well  known. 

In  the  n 

eighbou 

rhoo 

d  of  Siena  U 

the  large  Franciscan  Con 

<en 

ofi-O*- 

arkable  for  the  I 
Pandolfo  Patrucci,  the  celebrated  ty- 
rant of  Siena,  cited  by  his  friend  Ma- 
cbiavelli  as  one  of  Iho  best  types  of  a 
usurper.  He  died  in  1,513;  the  tomb 
is  the  work  of  the  scholars  of  Penuu, 
His  descendants  still  eiist  at  Tunrita. 
The  church  also  contains  aaine  fine 
works  by  Zucu  ddla  Bobbin,  in  terra- 
cotta, representing  the  Coronation  of 
the  Virgin. 

About  three  miles  IVom  Siena  ii  the 
Caitit  of  Bclcaro,  celebrated  in  the 
history  of  tbe  treiclieroua  siege  of 
Siena  by  Cosmo  I.  in  IJ54,  when  it 
was  tile  head-quarters  of  the  Marquis 
di  Marignono  mentioned  in  a  previous 
page.  The  ramparts  still  preserve 
several  cannon  balls  imbedded  in  the 
walls.  During  the  thirteenth  century 
Belcaro  was  chosen  by  St.  Catherine 
as  the  wat  of  a  conTeut ;  in  tbe  rix- 
teenth  century  it  became  more  fkmoua 
as  the  residence  of  Crescentiiu  Tura. 
mini,  the  rich  lanker  of  Siena.  Un- 
like bis  fellow-citixen  Buonsignoti, 
who  emigrated  to  France  to  found  the 
"  Bank  of  tbe  Great  Table."  or  hU 
vain  contemporary  Agostlno  Chigi, 
who  ordered  the  silver  plate  used  at 
the  banquet  he  gaye  to  Leo  X.  at  the 


Farn. 


a  Palac. 


the   Tl 

table,  Turamini  deti 
the  encouragement  i 
employed  -Baldtuaa. 
corate  Belcaro  with 
loggia  was  enrirely 
frescoes;  they  were  uofbrtunatety  de- 
faced in  the  last  century,  but  the 
whitewash  has  lately  been  removed. 
nnd  several  of  the  subjects  are  now 
cleve^Y  resloTcA.  Tbo  shapel  was 
'i,  entueV)  buiU  \i^  (K«  ^viba  m\\a%  "a? 


jPapat  States."]  route  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Siena.  217 


roof  was  ornamented  by  him  with  the 
most  delicate  frescoes,  showing  that  in 
fimey  and  in  p^race  he  had  derived  no 
common  inspiration  from  the  works  of 
Raphael,  of  whom  he  professed  to  be 
an  imitator.  The  vestibule  of  the 
yiHa  presents,  however,  on  its  ceiling  a 
still  more  celebrated  work,  the  great 
fresco  of  the  Judgment  of  Paris,  con- 
sidered by  Lanzi  to  be  one  of  those 
in  which  Peruzzi  most  closely  ap- 
proached the  genius  of  Raphael.  It  is 
now  believed  to  have  been  painted 
from  his  design,  since  the  engraving 
of  Mare  Antonio,  professing  to  be 
from  a  drawing  by  Raphael,  precisely 
corresponds  with  this  fresco. 

The  manners  and  language  of  the 
Sienese  remain  to  be  noticed.  The 
epithet  which  Dante  fixed  upon  the 
citizens  in  more  than  one  passage,  has 
probably  tended  to  give  a  notoriety,  if 
not  a  celebrity,  to  their  national  vanity, 
-which  promises  to  outlive  the  failing: 

-"  Ed  io'dissi  a1  poeta :  or  fu  gi^mmai 
Gente  si  vana  come  la  Sanese? 
Certo  non  la  Francesca  si  di  assai.'* 

Irtf.  xxu. 

Tlie  distinction  of  ranks  is  still  kept 
tip  with  an  hereditary  tenacity  to  forms ; 
even  in  some  of  the  schools  proofs  of 
nobility  are  required ;  but  the  Tolomei 
College,  under  the  management  of  the 
amiable  professors  of  the  Scolopii,  has 
at  length  emancipated  itself  from  these 
antiquated  pretensions,  which  cease  to 
be  harmless  when  they  insinuate  them- 
■elves  into  systems  of  education.  The 
pronunciation  and  accent  of  the  Sienese 
Mn  celebrated  for  their  purity,  and  the 
Tuscan  dialect  is  said  to  be  spoken 
there  without  that  gutteral  harshness 
or  those  strong  aspirates  which  are  so 
disagreeable  at  Florence.  Tlie  travel- 
ler, however,  will  hardly  have  an  op- 
portunity of  judginjf  how  far  this 
reputation  is  well  founded,  unless  he 
enter  into  society ;  and  even  then  he 
will  not  unfrequcntly  he  reminded  ! 
that  the  Tuscan  pronunciation  is  not  | 
altogether  discarded.  Perhajis,  how- 
ever, ID  spite  of  the  claims  of  Siena,  ' 
/he  more  an  English  traveller  becomes  | 
Cht/,  If, 


acquainted  with  Italy,  the  more  will 
he  be  disposed  to  assent  to  the  proverb, 

"  Lingua  Toscana  in  bocca  Eomana.** 

Siena  is  one  of  the  places  selected  as 
a  summer  residence  by  English  visitors 
who  pass  the  season  in  Italy ;  it  is  free 
from  mosquitos,  and  its  climate  is 
considered  healthy.  The  inhabitants 
boast,  as  a  proof  of  this  fact,  that  they 
escaped  both  visitations  of  the  cholera. 
"  Siena,"  says  Sir  James  Clark,  «*  af- 
fords a  healthy  summer  residence  for 
persons  who  are  not  very  liable  to 
suffer  from  rapid  changes  of  tempera- 
ture, which  often  occur  here  during 
the  summer,  owing  to  the  high  and 
exposed  situation  of  the  place.  Siena 
is  considerably  cooler  in  the  summer, 
and  much  colder  in  the  winter  than 
Naples,  Rome,  Pisa,  or  Nice.  The 
annual  mean  temperature  is  55° '60, 
being  6°  less  than  Naples,  and  only 
about  5°  more  than  London ;  but  this 
arises  from  the  coldness  of  its  winter, 
which  is  only  1°'38  warmer  than  that 
of  London.  Its  summer  temperature 
is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Capo 
di  Monte  at  Naples,  but  3*^  warmer 
than  that  of  the  baths  of  Lucca.  Its 
daily  range  of  temperature  is  very 
great.  It  is  a  dry  and  healthy  climate, 
and  altogether  a  safe  summer  resi- 
dence. For  persons  disposed  to,  or 
labouring  under  pulmonary  disease, 
however,  Siena  is  an  imfavuurable  cli- 
mate at  all  seasons.  For  nervous  re- 
laxed people  it  forms  a  better  summer 
retreat  than  either  Naples  or  the  baths 
of  Lucca." 

There  are  several  excellent  but  hilly 
lines  of  road  from  Siena  to  Arezzo, 
distant  about  38  miles.  That  from 
Siena  to  Chiusi  by  Asciano  (49  miles) 
has  been  described  at  p.  175. 

The  road  from  Siena  to  the  Papal 
frontier  passes  over  one  of  the  most 
dreary  and  barren  districts  in  the  whole 
of  Italy.  Its  bare  and  desolate  clay 
hills,  capped  with  tertiary  sandstone, 
are  generally  destitute  of  a  single  tree, 
and  the  entire  coui\\t'^  ,  ^%  Kw  «l%  >iJcv^  ^^^ 
can  reach,  seems  \.o\\aN^>D^^Ti^«.^^«X«^ 
by  some  natuTaV  coivn\Asvoxv.  OwX^^o.-h- 


its     B.  28. — ytoREKCB  TO  BOMB. — SiioficonveRta.    fSect.L 


ing  Sena  the  road  descends  Inio  ilie 
lallvy  of  the  Arbii^  slid  fulluu's  jls 
right  bank  for  nearly  two  stogos. 

I  Montecone. 

The  Arlnu  and  the  Ombtone  arc 
crowd  rfiortly  before  reaching 

I  BMonsaKVenio,  situated  near  the 
junction  of  the  two  streams.  [There 
arc  two  /nnt  here,  the  Cavallo  I  ngtese, 
and  the  Europa;  neither  very  com- 
Ibrtshle,  but  the  desire  to  plcnse  at  the 
CiiY»1Io  Ingleae  compensates  for  want 

the  Europa  one  of  the  sleeplng-plaees 
between  Florence  and  Rome.]  The 
ancient  castle  of  Buonconveiito.  one  of 
the  best  preKried  in  Tuscany,  is  in- 


n  Italian  b 
of  the  death  of  the  ' 
VII.  The  emperor  I 
towards  Rami 


is  march 


e  Guelph  party  under  Robert  of 
Naples,  wlicn  he  slopped  here  lo  cele- 
brate the  feast  of  Si.  Bartholomew, 
August  21.  1313.  He  received  the 
commumon  &om  the  hands  of  a  Do- 
minican monk,  Polltian  of  Muntcpitl- 
and  eapired 


"It  w 


■■    MJS  i 


the  monk  had  mixed  the  j 


li^^fnlpel 


also  that  Henry  van  atre.-idy  attacked 
by  a  malady  which  he  concealed  —a 
carbuncle  bad  manife^lcd  itself  below 
the  knee,  and  a  cold  bath,  which  he 
took  to  calm  the  burning  irritation, 
perhaps  oocasioued  his  sudden  and 
nncipeoled  death,"  The  oontempo- 
larywrllersnearly  all  agree  in  ascribing    i 

appear  inclined  to  regard  it  as  a  fic- 
tion of  the  Ghibelioes,  who  found  the 
people  loo  willing  to  believe  it.      If 
even  this  explanation  be  accepted.  Ihe 
popular  credulity  on  the  subject  must 
be  received  as  aeollateral  proof  of  the 
depraved   morals  of  the  clergy  in  the 
^m       fourteenth  century.     Prom  Buononn-    able    e 
^^_-  «enlD  a  road  leads  np  the  valley  of 
^H   OmbronetutheBenedictineconven 

^■pfenei 


productions  of  Sodoma,     The  Pereta 
and   the  Seriate  are  crossed  belwet 
BuonconveniD  and  Torrinleri.     The 
road  is   a    continued   and  ' 
ascent;    on    a   hill  on   the      „ 
little  town  of  Montalcino,  celebrated 
by  Redi  for  its  wine,  is  passed. 

I  Torrinieri  (an  addilionol  horse 
from  this  place  lo  Poderina,  and  nice 
vertS),  Beyuud  this  station  the  Aan> 
and  the  Tuoma  are  crossed.  Another 
sleep  ascent  over  dreary  and  barren 
hills  brings  us  to  San  Qsirico,  where 
a  road  on  the  left  hand  leads  tu  Pimao, 
(e  miles),  the  birth-place  of  Pius  II. 
(,£neas  Sylvius),  and  of  his  nepbew 
Pius  I II.,  who  built  the  immense  Plo- 
colomini  palace  iu  the  tnwn.  An  inle- 
re^iting  excursion  may  he  made  frrnn 
San  Quirico  lo  Montepulciani  ' 

Chiusi  (a^miles),  lioth  Etruscun  cities 
of  high  antiquity,  whence  a  good  luad 
leads   throu^    Citt^  della    Pieve   ' 
Orvieto    (3S  miles),    and    thence 
Montefiasuone    (18     miles).  _  (I 
Route  S3.)      San    Quirie.i    baa   i 
small  /au,  the  Aquila  Ncra,  clean  and 
good  of  its  kind,  and  II  Sole        '  '  ' 
the  vellurini  generally  make  one  of 
their  sleeping-places.        The    Gothi 

old  square  tower,  suppcsed  to  he  of  Ro- 
nan  origin,  are  thconly  objects  in  the 
illHge  which  require  obsen 
1    Poderina,  on  Ihe  river  i 
ew   miles  beyond  il  is  the  bad   and 
dirty  oilrria  of  La  Seals,  one  of  the 
-""•■"-^-places  of  Ihe  vetturioi.     Nu- 
B  torrents  flow  down  fro 
ito  the  Orcia  between  ihii 
Licorsi.      The  small  Imi  bera  ii 
:  the  only  house.      It  is  very  in- 
different, but  the  people  are  obliging. 
(An  sddiiional  horse  to  BadicotanL) 
Close  lo  this  place  are  the  bathn  <rf 
San  Filippo,  tht 


fine  frescoes  by  Lnca 
lOr^S,  illustrating  the  life  of  St. 
ledicl,  and  toT  some  of  the  earliest' 


n  the 
casts.  The  water,  when  allowed 
fell  upon  medals  or  gems,  leavei 
deposit  which  harden-;  into  the  m 
beautiful  easts ;  and  wten  moulds 
.  used,  vevj  ftiw  oamecyi  aif.  ^toducedL 
A  wilA  atii  iliewv  tuai-  ' 


Papal  States,']    r.  26. — Florence  to  home. — P.Centino.  219 


barren  volcanic  mountain  of  Radico- 
fimiy  through  the  deep  ravine  of  the 
Formone.  Nothing  can  exceed  the 
desolation  of  the  scene ;  huge  masses 
of  basalt  encumber  the  mountain,  and 
vegetation  seems  to  be  entirely  ar- 
rested. 

1  RadUofani  ( Inn,  La  Posta :  lately 
improved,  and  the  best  sleeping-place 
for  the  second  night  from  Florence ;  it 
was  once  a  hunting  palace  of  the 
grand-dukes.  The  house  has  lately 
been  painted  and  decorated,  but  in 
former  times  its  vast  range  of  apart- 
ments, with  their  high  black  raf- 
tered roofs  and  the  long  passages, 
were  considered  by  Mr.  Beck  ford  a 
fitting  scene  of  a  sabbath  of  witches). 
The  mountain  of  Radicofani  is  said 
to  be  2470  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
from  its  great  height  it  commands 
all  the  surrounding  country,  which 
is  as  bleak  and  dreary  as  itself. 
The  geology  of  the  mountain  is  in- 
teresting ;  it  is  composed  of  Subapen- 
nine  marl,  covered  with  enormous 
fragments  of  volcanic  matter,  among 
which  are  several  small  basaltic  co- 
lumns. It  was  one  of  the  numerous 
cluster  of  volcanic  vents  which  re- 
lieved the  northern  extremity  of  the 
present  Campagna,  and  which  we 
may  easily  trace  from  the  heights 
around  Bolsena  and  Viterbo.  The  vil- 
lage is  considerably  higher  up  the 
mountain  than  the  road  ;  it  is  sur- 
rounded with  strong  walls,  but  con- 
tains nothing  to  attract  attention,  ex- 
cept the  wild  dress  and  appearance  of 
its  inhabitants.  Still  higher,  occupy- 
ing the  summit  of  the  cone,  is  the 
ruined  castle  of  Ghino  di  Tacco,  the 
robber-knight,  whose  seizure  of  the 
abl>ot  of  Clugny  when  on  his  way  to 
take  the  mineral  waters  of  Tuscany,  is 
celebrated  by  Boccaccio.  The  abbot's 
ailments  appeared  to  Ghino  capable  of 
a  simple  remedy,  for  he  put  him  on  a 
regimen  of  bread  and  white  wine,  and 
it  is  said  so  effectually  cured  him,  that 
he  found  it  quite  unnecessary  to  drink 
the  waters.  The  Fort  was  a  place  of 
some  importance  in  much  Jater  times. 


During  the  last  century  it  was  garri- 
soned, but,  the  powder-magazine 
having  blown  up,  the  Tuscan  govern- 
ment has  not  thought  it  worth  while 
to  restore  it.  At  the  Dogana,  by  the 
road-side,  passports  are  examined  and 
viseed» 

A  rapid  descent  leads  down  to  the 
valley  of  the  Rigo,  passing  the  osteria 
of  Novella  before  crossing  the  Rigo, 
which  here  falls  into  the  Paglia.  Fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  torrent,  we 
cross  the  Elvella,  which  divides  Tus- 
cany from  the  Papal  States  at  the 
osteria  of  Torricella,  and  arrive  at 

1  i  Ponte  Centino,  the  Papal  frontier 
station  and  custom-house,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Elvella,  near  the  point 
where  that  torrent  and  the  Siele  fall 
into  the  Paglia.  Passports  are  ex- 
amined and  viseed  here,  and  travellers 
unprepared  with  a  Lasda  passare  are 
generally  obliged  to  have  their  luggage 
plumbed ;  but  here,  as  at  other  fron- 
tier stations,  a  fee  will  greatly  facili- 
tate matters  and  prevent  vexatious 
detention. 

[An  additional  horse  from  Ponte 
Centino  to  Radicofani,  and  also  to 
Acquapendente.  For  carriages  with 
four  or  six  horses,  besides  the  two  ad- 
ditional required  by  the  tariff,  the 
postmaster  of  Ponte  Centino  is  allow- 
ed  to  attach  a  pair  of  oxen  from  the 
osteria  di  Novella  to  Radicofani,  at  a 
charge  of  60  bajocchi.  In  this  case 
the  course  for  the  two  additional 
horses,  estimated  at  1 J  post,  is  fixed  at 
60  bajocchi  per  horse.  Carriages  of 
couriers  and  others  with  only  two 
horses  are  not  subject  to  the  regula- 
tion as  regards  the  oxen.  An  addi- 
tional horse  from  Ponte  Centino  to 
Acquapendente.] 

The  road  proceeds  along  the  left  side 
of  the  Paglia,  which  receives  so  many 
torrents  in  its  course  that  the  route  be- 
tween Radicofani  and  Acquapendente 
is  often  impassable  after  heavy  rains. 
The  scenery  of  the  frontier  continues, 
for  some  miles,  of  the  most  dreary 
character,  but  it  improves  as  we  «.'<^ 
preach  Acquo^ewdi^tvV^.    'Y^v^'^^.^x^ 

\.1 


hocteM.^ — rlORfemst  *ft  iumt. — Bohena.     f  Sect.  1; 


220 

U  crossed   b J  till!   Ponte  GregorTiino, 
niid  a  long,  steqi,  sud  beauUrul  onii^nt 

1  AcgaapeHdenle  {Thu,  Tre  Corone 
d'Oro.  juil  catHblUhcil,  in  a  Urge  old 
mansion,  rather  dimilitie  atid  ill  fur- 
nislled  al  present,  liut  not  otherwise 
objcclionabte).      Puf^sporls  are  again 


Hpprn 


o  lilts,  ll 


1  lifst  te. 


Ffliml  Slates,  om-rs  the  i 
MlltoftheTusi 


I.    The 

of  the 


is  picturesquely  >ituatedo[ 
t  of  a  precipitous  mass  ol 
^.  tk,  OTBT  which  Bevenl  pretty  ea* 
video,  from  which  it  derives  its  tiume. 
Auh  into  the  ravine  hclow.  Tliis  iiil 
iscomposedchieflyof  IheSuhain-nniiii 
merls,  capped  with  volcdnio  tufa  and 
busalt.  During  the  ascent,  on  Ihi 
'ight  be  nd.ianie  ah  ortbasidlie  columns 

of  leten  or  eight  sides.  Ac- 
ull  and  dirty  epis. 
delegation  Lf  Vi. 
rho,  pOsMsmng  no  inlercit  wbatesei 
^tthat  derited  from  its  romnntit 
previously  to  (ht 
jenteenth  oenlury  a  mere  slrong- 
^Vcdd,  nith  few  inhabitants,  but  it  be- 
enme  a  place  of  smne  importance  aflei 
Innocent  X.,  in  1G47,  removed  hen 
tile  episcopal  see  Irom  Castro,  whict: 


ceived  rrnm  his  discoveries  his  Rr^ 
impulse  in  inresligating  the  rii 
tion  of  the  blood.  Fa&icius  diel  in 
1619,  the  year  in  which  his  illustrioai 
pirpil  began  ti>  teach  publicly  in  Lon» 
don  the  doctrine  oF  the  circulation. 

■rite  aspect  of  the  country  gradually 
improves  after  leaving  this  town ; 
many  of  the  luFa  bill"  are  filled  with 
grotlDcs,  which  serve  as  habitations  la 
the  shepherds.  A  gradual  ascent 
brings  us  lo 

]  San  Lnrenio  Num'o  (  hni,  Aquils 
Nera,  and  I.'Ecu  dc  France),  a  formal 
village  built  in  a  circle  on  tbe  brow  of 
the  bill  by  Pope  Pius  VI.,  at  bis  own 
cost,  as  an  asylum  for  the  inbabitanta 
of  the  old  town,  which  was  afflicted 
witb  tnaluria.  From  this  point  tha 
traveller  enjoys  the  first  view  of  the 
lake  of  BulscnH.  with  its  picturesque 
shores  surrounded  by  lofty  bills  co- 

On  the  descent,  the  ruined  town  or 
station  of  San  Lorenzo  Rovinato,  aur- 
mnunlcd  by  an  old  tower  covered 
with  ivy,  forms  b  striking  feature  in 
the  landscape.  It  occupies  an  Etrus- 
can site,  and  numerous  sepulchres  arc 
■till  traceable  in  the  cliffs  beneath  its 

1  iJnbena  (Inn.    Aquila  d'Oro,  de- 
scribed  by    some    traTcllers   as    Tery 
dirty   and  uncivil,  and  by  olhi 
1 847,  as  c       ■■    ■  •  ■  ■      ' 


nail  ti 


table 


1   clean), 


lurder 


IfiSS  V 


lants  Fur  the 

lop.     ThepopuUti 

1.       The   medical 

pass    through  the 

^  _     lleoting  the  Came  ol 

Acquapendenle,  born   1 


other  important  facts  In  anatomy.  To 
t/ie  English  travethr  it  is  particularly  , 
interesting,  since  Harvej  studied  un- 
fer  him  at  Failua,  and  probably  ra- 


the si 


r  planted  the  Etruscan  city  of  Volnnii, 
i  afli^T  the  latter  hud  been  conquered 
1 1  and  raied  to  the  ground.  It  is  cele- 
t :  lirated  in  the  history  of  the  Roman 
I  church  as  the  scene  of  the  miracle  of 
.    the  wafer.      Volsinii  was  one  of  th 

i  oftheEtruscanleagucandwaesoopi 
lent  when  it  was  last  conquered  by  tti 
Romans,  that  it  is  stated  by  Pliuy  ( 
bavc  contEuncd  no  less  than  3000  str 
les  (B.C.  2Ba).  An  account  of  i 
irious  eontests  with  Rome  mil  I: 
lund  in  Livy,  wlio  notices  the  woi 
'i  ship  oE  murcia,  aw4  ttates  Ihut  tlie 
',  years  were  wiMVei  \i^  t\i!\n^  -w 


Papal  States,"]  r.  26. — Florence  to  rome. — Bolsena,       221 


her  temple.     Tlie  common  story  of 
the  citizens  becoming,  after  the  loss  of 
their  independence,  so  sunk  in  luxury 
as  to  fidl  under  subjection  to  their 
own  slaves,  is  rejected  by  Niebuhr, 
Vfho    considers    that   the   insurgents 
called  '*  slaves  "  by  the  Roman  writers, 
were  not   domestic   slaves,  but  serfs 
who  had  aided  the  Volsinienses  in  the 
defence  of  their  common  home,  and 
had  obtained  as  their  reward  the  rights 
of    citizenship.      At   a  later   period 
Volsinii  was  remarkable  as  the  birth- 
place of  Sejanus,  the  favourite  of  Ti- 
berius,  but  we  have  very  few  other 
notices  of  it  in  Roman  history.     The 
Etruscan  city  is  supposed  to  have  been 
situated  on  the  table-land  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill  called  "11  Piazzano," 
above    the    amphitheatre,   but    there 
is  not  a  vestige  of  wall  or  temple  to  be 
traced.    The  remains  of  the  Roman 
city  are  more  numerous.     At  the  en- 
trance of  the  town  is  a  confused  heap  of 
architectural  fragments  which  deserve 
examination.  Among  them  are  broken 
columns,   Corinthian  capitals,  several 
altars,  and  inscribed  stones.      Nearer 
the  gateare  numerous  granite  columns, 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  temple,  sup- 
posed to  be  that  of  the  Etruscan  god- 
dess Norcia.      Among  the  ruins  is  a 
Roman  bas-relief  of  the  sacrifice  of 
the  Arvales.      Besides  these  antiqui- 
ties, numerous  sepulchres  and  tumuli 
exist  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town, 
together  with  some  remains  of  a  Ro- 
man  amphitheatre,  approached  by  a 
Roman    road   of  basaltic  pavement. 
Large  quantities   of  Etruscan  vases, 
statues,    and  other  relics  have  been 
found  here  in  recent  years ;  the  sta- 
tue called  the  Arringatore,    now   in 
the  gallery  at  Florence,  is  perhaps  the 
most  remarkable  of  these  discoveries. 
The  triple  church  of  !^ta.  Cristina  has 
a  fa9adc  ornamented  with  some  bas- 
reliefs  collected  from  the  ancient  tern* 
pie  in  1512  by  Cardinal  de*  Medici, 
and  a  marble  sarcophagus,  with  a  bas- 
relief  of  the  triumph  of  Bacchus.     It 
is  more  interesting,  however^  as  the 
alleged  scene  of  the  famous  miracle  to 
H^hJcIi  the  genius  of  Raphael  has  given 


immortal  celebrity.  The  miracle  is 
said  to  have  taken  place  in  1 263,  when 
a  Bohemian  priest,  who  doubted  the 
doctrine  of  transubstantiation,  was 
convinced  by  blood  flowing  from  the 
Host  he  was  consecrating.  In  com- 
memoration of  this  event  Urban  IV., 
then  residing  at  Orvieto,  instituted 
the  festival  of  Corpus  Domini.  A 
dark  and  dirty  vault,  forming  a  kind 
of  chapel,  is  pointed  out  as  the  actual 
scene  of  the  miracle.  The  spot  where 
the  blood  fell  is  covered  with  an  iron 
grating. 

The    Upper  Town  of  Bolsena   is 
tvorth  a   visit,    not   so  much   for  its 
beauty  as   for   its   singularity;    from 
every  point  of  high  ground  the  scenery 
alone  repays  the  trouble  of  the  ascent. 
The  Lake  of  Bolsena  is  a  noble  ex- 
panse of  water,  whose  circumference 
is  estimated  by   Calindri    at   43,003 
metres,  which  would  give  about  26| 
English  miles.     It  has  the  form  of  an 
extinct  crater,  and,  being  bounded  by 
volcanic  rocks,  has  been  frequently  re- 
garded as   such;    but    Dr.  Daubeny 
points  out  the  necessity  of  more  con- 
clusive evidence  than  we  possess  be- 
fore the  hypothesis  be  admitted,  espe- 
cially when  the  great  extent  of  the  lake 
Is  considered.     The   investigation   of 
its  geology  would,  however,  be  a  dan- 
gerous task,  for  the  treacherous  beauty 
of  the   lake   conceals  malaria   in   its 
most    fatal   forms ;    and   the   shores, 
although    there    are   no   traces  of  a 
marsh,  are  completely    deserted,   ex- 
cepting where  a   few  sickly  hamlets 
are  scattered  on  their  western  slopes. 
The  ground    is  cultivated   in   many 
parts  down  to  the  water's  edge,  but 
the  labourers  dare  not  sleep  for  a  sin- 
gle nigh  I  on  the  plains  where  they  work 
by  day;  and  a  vast  tract  of  beautiful 
and  productive  country,  presenting  no 
appreciable  condition  of  soil  to  account 
for  the  existence  of  malaria,  is  reduced 
to  a  perfect  solitude  by  this  invisible 
calamity.        Nothing    can    be     more 
striking  than  the  appearaua^  q>^  1Vn5& 
lake,  wvl\\out  a  «xv^fe  ^^  >\'^q>xvNNa 
waters,  and  mXXv  ^caxc^^^j   ^  XvNa^sw^^ 
habUatiou   vWvti  ^v^x  ol  \J.o\«tv.^ 


f 


tOUTE  26.- 


BENCE  TO  itoME. — BoUena.     [Sect. 


And  nolliing  perhaps  can  give  the  tra- 
veller ivUo  TiilU  Italy  for  the  Rnt 
time  H  Rioro  tmpreiUTe  idva  of  tbe  in- 
flucDcc  of  milariii.  The  tn-o  small 
idancLi,  the  Isrgegt  called  Sittntina, 
and  llie  emallest  Martcnia,  are  pitlu- 
mque  objecU  from  the  hills.  The 
latter  is  memorable  ai  the  scene  of  the 
irapriBonment  and  murder  of  Amola- 
sontba,  queen  of  the  Goths,  the  only 
daoglKcr  of  Tlieodoiic  mid  tbe  nlei.*c 
of  Cioiis;  she  was  atrangled  m  hci 
bath,  i.u.  535,  by  the  order  or  wilf 
Ibe  connivance  of  hei  cousin  Theoda. 
las,  vhum  she  bad  raised  to  a  share  ir 
the  kuigilom.  Some  steps  in  the  rook 
■re  shown  as  the  stair  which  led  Is 
lietprison.  The  church  on  the  Bisen- 
lioa  woi  built  by  the  Fsrnese  fiimily, 
and  tli'corated  bythe  Caracci;  it  con- 
taina  tbe  relics  of  Sis.  Cristina,  the  vir- 
gin saint  of  Bobscna,  whose  foutslepi 
on  [he  rocks  at  the  Ixttlom  of  the  lake, 
are  still  ihosrn  as  pruols  of  her  i 
eulous  preservation  from  the  death  by 
drowning,  lo  which  slie  had  becu 
signed  by  her  pa^an  judges. 
Farnesi  had  two  villas  on  thesi 
lands,  where  Leo  X.,  after  visi 
Viterbo  for  the  pleasures  of  llio  chase, 
teaided  for  a  short  time,  for  the 
pose  of  fishing.  Tbe  lake  has  si 
been  famous  for  its  fish;  its  eel 
commemorated  by  Dante,  who 
that  Pope  Martin  IV.  killed  himself 
by  eating  Ihem  lo  excess  : 


The  traveller  who  wishes  to  visit 
fine  oalhedrnl  of  Orvieto,  without 
ODunteiiog  the  details  of  Route 
may,  in  a  light  two-wheeled  gig,  easily 

same  day  to  rejoin  his  carriage.  The 
road  is  in  part  rough  and  ihroughoi 
mountainous ;  the  nominal  distani 
of  B  miles  he  will  probably  find  t 
least  12,  but  it  forms  on  the  whol 
the  easiest  and  most  rapid  mode  of 
visiting  Orvieto  from  this  road. 

An  additional  horse  is  required 
from  Bolsena  to  San  Lorenio ;  and 
also  from  Bolsena  to  Montefiascone, 
but  not  m'cc  nerii!  in  either 

About  a  mile  from  Boln 
vetler  should  leave  t)ie  c 
eiDtnine  the  basaltic  colur 
steep  slopes  of  the  hill  overloaking  the 
lake.  They  are  thickly  clustered,  antl 
present    generally  five  " '    ' 

prisms,  ftomlwo  to  four  feet  in  height. 
The  ascent  of  tbe  hill  now  '      ' 
through  a  wood  aboi 


e  lake      The 


aks,  and  pre 

order  lo  prevent  Ihe  concealment  of 
banditti,  who  formerly  gave  the  hill 
of  Bolsena  a  disagreeable  notoi' 
After  a  long  ascent  we  reach  the 
of  MonteliasooDe,  situaled  on  an 
ited  hill  crowned  by  an  old  castle  of 
le  middle  ages,  and  commanding 

lunding  scenery. 

1  Montefiascone  (/nai.  La  Post! 
ear  and  unaccommodating,  befoi 
'  >g  up  to  the  gate ;  Aquila  Nera, 


In  the  south-west  bend  of  the  lake, 
near  tbe  island  of  Mariana,  is  the  little 
river  Marts,  by  which  it  is  drained ; 
it  flows  beneath  Toscanello,  and  ftUs 
into  the  sea  at  Corneto.      Pliny's  de- 
scription of  the  lake,  which  be  calls 
tbe  Tarqninian  lake,  and  his  account 
of  its  two  floating  islands,  will  interest 
fAe  eJassicaf  tourist  (Ep'uL   ii.  BB.)i 
lie  islands,  if  they  ever  enisled,  have 
dLsappeared,  for  the  deioriplion  ca 
'pp/y  to  Biseatina  and  Martaiia. 


landci 


of  Ihe  1 


beyond  tbe  gate).   An  episcopal  town  of 

4800  souls,  occupying  the  site  of  an 

ident  Etruscan  city,  of  which  some 

laries  are  not  agreed  upon  its  name. 

he  cathedral,  dedicated  to  St.  Mar- 
garet, in  spite  of  its  unfinished  front 
has  an  imposing  air ;  its  octagonal 
jupola  is  one  of  the  earliest  and 
most  inUrcBting  woika  of  San  Mi- 
ehele,  wtiose  Swigns  ate  liso  Teccus,- 
niaed  in    se^eiiA  ^Awan     «b4  ^>fti 


Papal  States.']   r.  26. — Florence  to  rome.— Jer^wto. 


223 


lie  buildings.  Near  the  gate  is  the 
ehurch  of  San  Flaviano,  a  Gothic 
building  founded  in  1030»  and  restored 
by  Urban  IV.  in  1262,  presenting  a' 
singular  mixture  of  round  and  pointed 
arches.  From  the  gallery  in  front 
this  pope  is  said  to  have  given  his  be- 
nediction to  the  people.  In  the  sub- 
terranean chapel  is  the  monument  of 
Bishop  Johann  Fugger,  of  the  wealthy 
and  distinguished  &mily  of  Fugger  of 
Augsburg,  who  so  frequently  reple- 
nished the  coffers  of  the  emperors  and 
entertained  them  at  their  palace,  now 
well  known  to  travellers  in  Germany 
as  the  hotel  of  the  Drei  Mohren.  The 
biriiop  is  represented  lying  on  his 
tomb,  with  two  goblets  on  each  side 
of  his  mitre  and  under  his  arms.  The 
death  of  this  prelate,  which  took  place 
in  the  town,  was  caused  by  his  drink- 
ing too  freely  of  the  wine  to  which  he 
has  given  such  extraordinary  celebrity. 
The  following  is  [his  epitaph,  written 
by  bis  valet :  Est,  Est,  Est  Propter 
nimium  est,  Joannes  de  FoucriSy  Domi' 
nns  mens,  mortuta  est.  The  explana- 
tion of  this  singular  inscription,  which 
has  given  rise  to  abundant  controversy, 
appears  to  be  simply  this :  the  bishop 
wa^  in  the  habit  of  sending  on  his 
valet  beforehand  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether  the  wines  were  good,  in  which 
ease  he  wrote  on  the  walls  the  word 
Cff  {it  is  good).  At  Montefiascone  he 
is  said  to  have  been  so  pleased  with  its 
sweet  wine,  that  he  wrote  the  est  three 
times,  a  mode  of  expressing  the  supe- 
riority of  liquors,  ^hich  recalls  the 
XXX.  of  the  London  brewers.  The 
fiut  is  likely  to  be  perpetuated  much 
longer  than  the  luxurious  prelate 
would  probably  have  desired,  for  the 
best  wine  still  bears  the  name  of  the 
fatal  treble  est. 

Near  the  inn  at  Montefiascone  a 
hilly  and  interesting  road  branches  off 
to  Orvieto  (18  miles),  and  to  Citti 
dclla  Pieve  (48  miles),  whence  the 
traveller  may  proceed  either  to  Peru- 
gia (26  miles),  or  to  Chiusi  (8  miles), 
and  Montepulciano  (23  miles).  All 
tbew  roads  are  rery  hilly,  and  about 
JO  per  cent,  should  he  added  to  these 


nominal  distances  for  recent  altera- 
tions to  avoid  steep  pulls.  (See 
Route  23.) 

From  Montefiascone  to  Viterbo  the 
road  crosses  a  dreary  and  unenclosed 
country  destitute  of  interest.  About 
midway  between  the  towns,  about  a 
mile  from  the  road,  are  the  ruins  of 
Ferento,  the  Etruscan  Ferentinum, 
mentioned  by  Horace,  in  whose  time 
it  was  a  Roman  colony ;  it  afterwards 
became  the  birth-place  of  the  Emperor 
Otho  and  an  episcopal  see,  but  was 
destroyed  by  the  citizens  of  Viterbo,  in 
the  eleventh  century,  on  account  of  the 
alleged  heresy  of  its  inhabitants,  in 
representing  our  Saviour  on  the  cross 
with  the  eyes  open,  instead  of  shut. 
The .  ruins  are  extremely  interesting. 
Those  of  the  theatre  are  remarkable 
for  their  massive  substructions  of  Etrus<< 
can  masonry,  their  seven  gates,  and 
their  scenoy  which  is  supposed  to  be  the 
most  perfect  in  Italy.  Beyond  it  is 
the  village  of  Vitorchiano,  which  en- 
joys the  singular  privilege  of  supply- 
ing the  senators  of  Rome  with  servants, 
a  privilege  said  to  date  from  the  time 
of  the  Roman  Emperors.  About  7 
miles  beyond  Ferento  is  Bomarzo, 
celebrated  within  the  last  20  years 
for  the  Etruscan  tombs  which  have 
been  explored  by  Prince  Borghese 
with  so  much  success,  and  to  which  we 
are  indebted  for  the  interesting  sarco- 
phagus with  knotted  serpents  on  its 
temple  roof,  now  in  the  British  Mu- 
seum ;  and  for  the  bronze  shield  with 
a  lance  thrust  in  it,  and  its  braces  of 
'  leather  still  perfect,  which  now  forms 
\  one  of  the  most  remarkable  objects 
in  the  Museo  Gregoriano,  at  the  Va- 
;  tican.  Also  about  midway  between 
Montefiascone  and  Viterbo,  near  the 
Fontanile,  a  few  yards  from  the  road 
on  the  right  hand,  is  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  Via  Ccusia,  which  com- 
municated between  Florence  and 
Rome,  passing  through  Chiusi,  Bol- 
sena,  Bagni  di  Serpa,  Trosso,  Vetralla, 
and  Sutri,  and  joining  the  Via  Ame- 
rina  at  Baccano,  (TOia"w\v\0ti  -sJi^Rt  ^^ 
united  Toadft  ewtete^  ""BUoxRit  >xcAKt  ^^ 
name  of  tV\e  \\a  CassXa.     ^«^wA^>! 


ROOTS  26.— FtomiiiieE  to  romr.— Tfftt'fc;    fSect.  t. 

,t  of  the  onciint  rowl,  and  at    whole  coail.  from  tlic    mouth  of  llie 


bo.    a  aaiill 


icbnilcd  by  Haute  t  patriinotiy  of  St.  I'eler. 

The    Calbfdrul,    dedicBlsd   lo    San 

"thti'StSSM^T^l^l^iriri.  I  I*""™-  '5  a  Gothic  ediBce,  built  t>i> 

'•if-  »!•■     I  cults,      Ic  oontaiM  the  tombs  of  four 

1  ViTCKBD  (  Aiiu,  AquiliNen,  just  popes.  John  XX1„  Alex»nder  IV., 
intide  thi!  Florence  gate,  excellent  as  I  Adrian  V.,  and  Clement  IV.  At 
lo  room«  and  beds,  in  other  respcota '  llio  high  alUr  is  tl|e  piotuie  of  the 
capable  of  improvement ;  Angalo,  in  '  Glory  of  S.  Loren»o,  by  Gia.  FTotutiico 
ihe  Finzia).  From  Viterbo  lo  Monle-  RamamUi,  a  native  painUr,  who  died 
fiascone  the  poM  ii  leckoned  at  1),  liere  while  preparing  to  ratnovc  hii 
■  and  an  additioual  iiorse  is  reiiuired  i  ftmlly  to  Paria,  where  ho  had  previ- 
by  the  tarilli  but  not  dim  vtrii.  ously  obtained  the  patronage  of  Car- 

Vitetbo,  Bttmted  at  the  foot  of ,  dinal  Maiarin.  1"ho  piclurea  illus- 
Monte  Cimino,  ii  the  capital  of  one  of.  traling  vwioua  incidenU  iu  the  history 
the  most  exteiiaive  delegations  of  the '  of  S.  Lorenio  ate  by  his  aon  Urbana, 
Papal  Sutea,  embracing  a  superficial '  and  =>«  "^^  ^y  I-"""  "  worka  of 
ment  of  205  iciuare  leagues,  and  a,  eons'ilerable  promise,  hut  he  likewiu 
jouulation  of  1 13,000  souls.  It  is \  died  yoimg.  The  subjects  liom  tbe 
Ihe  aeat  of  a  bishopric,  and  the  real-  Ii*  "f  S-  Lorenio  and  St.  Stephen, 
I'encc  of  the  delegate.  The  pt^ula-  ^J  Marco  Btn^fial,  aie  also  noticed  by 
tion  of  the  eily  is  14,000.  It  is  sur-  Lanriamoogthebesl  workaof  thatu,- 
rounded  by  waUa  and  towers  built  equal  followorof  Uomeuiehinoaod  liia 
chiefly  by  the  Lombard  Lings;  it  is  «'""'■  In  the  Sacristy  is  a  large  p.c- 
veueially  well  built,  and  its  streets,  ">™  of  the  SaTiourandihe  tour  E«,w 
llwugh  narrow  «id  dirty,  are  paved  geluts,  attributed  to  .J/6tftiJur»(?Ji 
withflaK-«lones.likcthoscofHorence.  the  medallion  on  the  roof  is  by  CWfo 
By  tliB  old  Italian  writers  it  is  called  HwaUa.  But  these  worts  of  arl  will 
the  city  of  handsome  fouiiuins  and  f^''  W  interest  the  English  traveller 
bcaulilul  women.  "»  ■"<»=''   ">  "■=    ^oHecWon   of  the 

It  U  supposed  lo  occupy  the  alte  of  atrocity  which  has  associated  this  uii- 
tbe  aneienl  Faniim  vJtumnv  cule-  1  =ient  edifice  with  the  history  of  Eng. 
hrated  as  the  spot  where  the  Elruscan  '""d-  It  was  at  the  high  altar  of  this 
ciliea  held  their  general  assemblies.  I  cathedral  that  Prince  Henry  of  Eng- 
Tbe  present  town  was  raised  to  Iba  I  '""d,  son  of  (he  Earl  of  Cornwall,  was 
rank  of  a  city  by  Celestln  J 1 1.,  about  murdered  by  Guy  de  Montfort,  tlu: 
1194;  in  the  thirteenth  century  it  was  '"u"''  «">  "f  Simon  de  Montfort 
Ihe  residence  of  aaveral  popes,  and  the  ^"^  "^  Leicester,  who  was  tilled  in 
scene  of  uumeroua  conelavei  of  Ihe  ISGS  at  the  bottle  of  Evesham,  figh!^ 
sacred  college,  at  which  the  fhllowing  ing  "gainst  Henry  III.  On  thai  oc 
lontiffs  were  elected :  Urbon  IV.,  in  c--^io"  ""e  body  of  the  earl  was 
ISGI;  Clement  IV.,  in  12134;  B.Gre-  dragged  in  the  dost  by  the  royalists i 
(.oiy  X..  in  1271  ;  John  XXL.  in '  ''is  son,  Guy  de  Montlbrl,  who  was 
1276;  Nicholas  III.,  in  1277;  and  also  present  in  the  battle,  vowed  ven- 
Mnrlin  1 V.,  at  the  dictation  of  Charles  I  geance  against  the  king  and  his  family 
.,1  Anjou,  in  lasi.  It  was  the  chief  j  for  this  outrage.  No  upportunily, 
I'lj-o/^lAosBflWoiHaJpossessioiBOfthe  bowerer,  occurred  for  a  lew  years; 
(ounte^  Matilda,  eitending  from  i  but  Hm  gn^iiou  ot  i.\^i^  notortu.is 
Home  to  Dolsona,  a,„i  embracing  the  '  pe"ii=»«"   "^  fte  Wtonesni.s, -.»>,  uov 


Papal  StatesJ]   R.  26.— Florence  to  ROME.—-FiVer6o.        225 


likely  to  forget  his  vow,  and  an  acci- 
dental visit  to  this  city  at  length  threw 
one  of  the  young  princes  of  England  in 
his  way.     After  the  battle  of  Taglia- 
coxzo»    Charles  of  Anjou  was  sum- 
moned from  his  conquests  to  accom- 
pany his  brother  St.  Louis  on  a  second 
crusade  against  Tunis.    His  stay,  how- 
ever, was  short,  and  he  soon  returned 
to  Naples.     The  College  of  Cardinals 
being  then  at  Viterbo,  Charles  pro- 
c^eeded  to  that  city  in  order  to  induce 
the  cardinals  to  bring  the  long  inter- 
regnum to  a  close,  and  elect  a  suc- 
cessor to  the  chair  of  St.  Peter.  During 
his  residence  at  Viterbo,  many  of  the 
crusaders  who  had  returned  from  Tunis 
had  assembled  there,  together  with  his 
great  officers  of  state.  Among  the  lat- 
ter was  Guy  de  Montfort,  the  lieute- 
nant of  Charles  in  Tuscany.     On  a 
certain  day  he  met,  in  this  cathedral, 
Henry,  son  of  Richard,  earl  of  Corn- 
wall, king  of  the  Romans,  and  brother 
of  king  Henry  III.  of  England.    The 
prince  was  passing  through  Viterbo 
on  Lis  return  from  Africa,  whither  he 
had  accompanied  his  cousin  Edward. 
The  young  prince  was  kneeling  at  the 
altar  during  the  celebration  of  mass, 
when  Guy  de  Montfort  rushed  upon 
him   and   ran  him  through  with  his 
sword.     The  prince  instantly  expired, 
and  the  murderer  walked  out  of  the 
chuich  unmolested.     He  "said  to  his 
attendants  at  the  door,  "  I  have  been 
avenged."    "  How?'*  said  one  of  them, 
**  was  not  your^ father  dragged  in  the 
dust  ?**     At  these  words  he  returned 
to  the  altar,  seized  the  body  of  the 
prince  by  the  hair,  and  dragged  it  into 
the  public  square.     He  then  fled  and 
took   refuge  in    the    Maremma,   but 
Charles  was  afraid  to  punish  him  for 
the  crime.      Prince  Edward,  the  son 
and  successor  of    Henry   III.,    and 
Philippe  le   Hardi,  of  France,   were 
both  in  Viterbo  at  the  time,  but  they 
quitted  it  immediately,  indignant  at 
the  weakness  of  Charles  in  allowing 
the  murderer  to  go  unpunished.    Gio- 
vanni Villani,  the  principal  authority 
for  these  Acta,  states  that  "  the  heart 
of  Henry  was  put  into  a  golden  cup, 


and  placed  on  a  pillar  at  London 
Bridge,  over  the  river  Thames,  for  a 
memorial  to  the  English  of  the  said 
outrage.**  (Lib.  vii.,  c.  40.)  Dante, 
the  true  historian  of  the  middle  ages, 
has  also  commemorated  this  circum- 
stance, and  has  placed  the  murderer 
in  hell,  in  that  seventh  circle  guarded 
by  the  Minotaur  and  the  Centaurs, 
which  is  surrounded  by  a  river  o£ 
boiling  blood,  in  which  those  whose, 
sins  have  been  tyranny  or  cruelty 
towards  mankind  are  punished : 

''Poco  piCl  oltre  il  Centauro  si  afflssi 
Sovra  una  gente,  che  ini3no  alia  gola 
Parca  che  di  quel  bulicame  ascisse. 
Mastrocci  una  ombra  dalla  un  canto  8oIa». 
Dicendo :  colui  fesse  in  grembo  a  dio 
Lo  cor,  che  in  8U  Tamigi  ancor  si  cola." 

It\f  xii. 

Besides  this  event,  there  is  another 
historical  incident  which  gives  the 
cathedral  of  Viterbo  additional  inte- 
rest in  the  estimation  of  English  tra- 
vellers :  it  was  in  its  piazza  that 
Adrian  IV.,  the  only  Englishman  who 
ever  wore  the  tiara,  compelled  Frede- 
rick Barbarossa  to  humble  himself  in 
the  presence  of  the  papal  and  imperial 
courts  by  holding  his  stirrup  while  he 
dismounted  from  his  mule.  The- 
haughty  emperor  only  yielded  at  the 
persuasion  of  his  courtiers,  who  sug- 
gested the  precedent  of  Lothario;., 
but  Frederick  deeply  felt  the  injury, 
and  consoled  himself,  according  to  the. 
contemporary  historians,  by  declaring 
that  he  paid  this  homage  not  to  the 
pope,  but  to  the  apostle  of  whom  hQ 
was  the  recognised  representative. 

Close  to  the  cathedral  is  the  Epis*^ 
copal  Palace  of  the  thirteenth  century^ 
now  greatly  ruined,  but  still  retaining 
many  points  of  interest  connected  with 
the  history  of  the  popes.  The  great 
hall  is  still  shown  in  which  the  con- 
clave was  assembled  at  the  command 
of  Charles  of  Anjou,  at  the  time  of  the 
murder  of  Prince  Henry,  when,  af^er  a 
deliberation  of  thirty-three  months, 
they  elected  Tebaldo  Visconti  to  the 
papal  cha\T,UTid«iX^«  x^\si<^  q?1^\«,^t^ 
X.  In  tVift  saxofc  \«i5\  >Jaft  <s»x^vo^% 
iafteiwatds  eXwX^  XLKKmVN^,  ^^ 

1.  5 


H!ls(> 


noL-TB  26.— rLoBENCB  TO  KOMX-^-Vtierbo.    ^Sect.T. 


fbn»  them  tu  an  eleelioni  lliey  then 

arrested  and  imprlBoned  the  rardiiuilA 
Onini  «nd  Ijitino,  whom  Chiule",  for 

b«  remored  from  tbe  cuunciL  It  it 
nid  that  tbe  muniEipBl  arcliiiea  still 
prcBerre  Utten  oftfaeKcmdinBlsdHtiid 
&am  **  the  TDoflcss  palace."  Another 
cbRinber  u  ahDim,  in  which  John 
XXI.  vaa  killed  bj  the  Gdl  of  the 
Mof.iii  1877. 

The  cburch  of  the  Concent  of  Sla. 
AoRB  EODtaiDa  Ihe  bodj  of  the  saint, 
one  ot  the  heroines  of  Ihe  Iliirtccnlh 
eeatiuy.  whose  hirtor;,  like  that  of 
Joan  of  Arc,  presents  a  itrange  com- 
buutioD  of  religioua  and  palilioal  en- 
thiuiaHn,  She  first  roused  the  people 
■gaintt  the  emperor  Frederick  II.  ( 
after  the  success  of  the  Ghibeline  party 
•he  retired  into  eiile,  and  on  the 
death  of  the  great  emperor  returned  in 
triumph  to  Vitcr bo,  where  nhe  died  at 
the  ageof  eiglileen*  and  was  soon  after- 
ir«rds  canoniied  by  tbo  Guelph  parly. 
Her  body,  resembling  that  of  a  black 
mummy,  is  preserved  in  a  gilt  tomb, 
and  is  the  objeol  of  great  royercnce  on 
account  of  her  nuinerous  reputed  mi- 

The  Guthie  cburch  of  S.  fyancaeo, 
behind  (he  hotel,  contains  the  cele. 
bnted  Depofjitiun  from  the  Cross,  by 
Sabailiaiiu  ilrl  Piinnba,  painted,  as  we 
learn  from  Vasari,  &otn  the  deaiftns  of 
Mi'''hael  Angelo;  "L'  inveniioneperi 
edilcartotie  fu  di  Michelagnolo ;  fi 
quell'   opera  tenuta    da  xbi 


1    belliss 

asliano  grandissimo 

i  il   dire  di  coloro 


work  as  one  of  those  in  vhich  Sebas- 
tian del  Piomho  was  assisted  by 
Michael  An^celo,  who  patronised  him 
■"      "le  death  of  Baphaei, 


badly  plac 


r  light, 


school;     Tlie  picture  '. 

but  its  effect,  notwithstondini, 
disadvBotaget,  i>  lery  striking. 

The  church  of  the  Oaermnti  Ai 
Paraditn  has  another  work  of  Sebia- 
Hbmb  <ld  PtOfnbo,  the  Flagellation, 
which,  according  to  Lanii,  was  consi- 
dered the  finest  picture  in  Viterbo. 
On  the  ouuide  is  a  fresco  of  the  Ma- 
donna with  saints,  attributed  lo  Lio- 
nardo  da  Vinti. 

The  church  called  iMU  MoHt  has  a 
picture  of  the  Incredulity  of  St.  llio- 
mas,  by  Saivalor  Bom, 

at  the  high  altar,  by  Cav.  d'Arpi'ut, 
and  in  the  sacristy  a  small  painting  of 
Chrilt  in  Ihe  Garden,  by  Marcelia  Ve. 
ntaU,  another  artist,  whom  Lsnsi  men- 
tions with  great  praise  for  his  skill  in 
embodying  the  idens  of  Michad  An- 
gelo, by  whom  this  work  is  supposed 

been  designed. 

Maria  della  FcrOi  bos  a  re- 
markable fi-ewo  of  the  Spoializio,  bj 
I  Fiterio,  who 


mpleted  it 


1  ]4( 


Hlsbou 


It  is  highly  curious 
in  the  bisioTy  of  art,  independently  of 
Ihe  bet  that  all  the  heads  in  the  pic- 
ture are  portraits  of  the  principal  citi- 
lens,  and  it  is  scarcely  less  ioteresting 
ass  study  of  the  costume  of  the  fifteenth 

S,  A-ngelo  in  Spaia  presenls  in  its 
iiifade  a  Roman  sarcophagus,  with  a 
hue  bas-relief  of  a  lion  lighting  a  boar, 
and  an  inseription  recording  that  it 
coutains  the  Bsbes  of  Galiano,  the 
must  beautiful  woman  in  Italy,  Thii 
celebrated  personage  was  the  Helen 
of  Che  middle  ages  (1138},  and  her 
beauty  gave  rise  to  a  war  between 
Home  and  Viterbo,  during  which  the 
ILomons  were  defeated.  In  the  ca- 
pitulation which  followed,  the  Ro- 
mans stipulated  that  they  were  "  to  be 
allowed  a  last  sight  of  Galians,  who 
was  accordingly  shown  lo  them,"  says 
Valery,  "fromoneofthe  windowsslill 
eiislingin  the 


Papai  StaiesJ\  r.26? — Florence  to  rome.— Fi/cr^o.         227 


1864,  desenres  a  visit.     Its  court  con- 
tains two  large  Etruscan  tombs,  with 
figures  in  relief  and  inscriptions,  and 
an  elegant  fountain.     In  the  hall  of 
the  Aeeademia  degli  Ardenti  are  the 
lireseoes  of  BcJda$9are  Croce,  the  scho- 
lar of  Annibale  Caracci,  and,  accord- 
ing to  Malvasia,the  imitator  ctf  Guida 
Their  style  is  mentioned  by  Lanzi  as 
**  fiunle^  naturale,  da  meritargli  nome 
di  buon  pratico  e  di  buon  frescanti ; 
di  caraooesco  non  cos)    facilmente.'* 
In  another  apartment  are  the  marble 
tablet,  containing  the  pretended  edict 
of  King  Desiderio,   the   last  of  the 
Lombard  kings,  and  the  Tabula  Ci- 
bdlaria,  another  of  the  forgeries  by 
which  Annius,  the  well-known   lite- 
rary impostor,  attempted  to  claim  for 
l^terbo  an  antiquity  greater  than  that 
of  Troy.  The  museum  of  the  academy 
is  interesting  on  account  of  its  local  an- 
tiquities: it  contains  some  fine  Etrus- 
can tombs  in  terra-cotta,  vases,  and 
other  Etruscan  remains,  some  Roman 
inscriptions    and    sarcophagi,    and   a 
geological  cabinet,  illustrative  of  the 
locality.   Among  the  paintings  is  a  Vi- 
ntation,  by  Francesco  RomanelU,  whose 
San  Lorenzo  at  the  cathedral  has  been 
noticed  in  a  previous  page. 

The  principal  fountains  of  Viterbo, 
which  divide  with  its  pretty  women 
the  honour  of  the  proverb  already  men- 
tioned, are  the  Fontana  Grande,  begun 
in  1206  ;  the  fountain  in  the  market- 
place ;  that  in  the  Piazza  della  Rocca, 
constructed  in  1566  by  Cardinal  Far- 
nese,  and  attributed  to  Vignola ;  and 
that  in  the  court  of  the  Palazzo  Pub- 
blico. 

Outside  the  Roman  gate  is  the  Do- 
muniean  Convent,  remarkable  as  the 
residence  of  Fra  Giovanni  Nanni,  bet- 
ter known  as  Annius  of  Viterbo,  who 
forged  the  edict  of  Desiderio,  already 
mentioned,  and  other  documents  to 
prove  the  high  antiquity  of  his  native 
city,  and  wrote  seventeen  books  which 
be  represented  to  be  the  lost  works  of 
ancient  writers,  particularly  of  Xcno- 
phon,  Archilochus,  and  Manetho; 
tbiFf  were  printed  in  1498,  and  for  a 
eoaaithnbJe  time  were  believed   by 


scholars  in  difierent  parts  of  Europe. 
Like  most  other  authors  of  literary 
forgeries,  Annius  found  that  those 
who  were  deceived  into  an  admiration 
of  his  discoveries  not  only  never  for- 
gave  the  deception,  but  accorded  him 
less  credit  for  his  learning  than  he 
deserved. 

The  Ihdtizzo  San  Martino,  belong- 
ing to  the  Doria  family,  deserves  a 
visit  for  its  noble  staircase  a  cordonif 
by  which  a  carriage  may  ascend  to 
the  upper  stories.  It  also  contains 
the  portrait  of  the  dissolute  Olimpia 
Maidalchini  Pamfili,  sister-in-law  and 
mistress  of  Innocent  X.,  with  her  bed 
and  its  leather  furniture.  Numerous 
tales  are  related  of  the  intrigues  of 
Olimpia  in  this  palace,  and  of  the  mys- 
terious disappearance  of  her  lovers 
through  a  trap-door,  the  fate  which 
tradition  has  assigned  to  all  the  hum- 
ble lovers  of  intriguing  princesses 
in  the  middle  ages. 

On  the  road  to  Orte  and  Narni  are 
two  objects  of  some  interest :  the  cele- 
brated sanctuary  and  Domenican  con- 
vent of  the  Madonna  deila  QuerciOf 
and  the  Villa  Lante  at  Bagnaja,  The 
Madonna  della  Querela,  built  from 
the  designs  of  Bramante,  is  remark- 
able for  its  splendid  roof,  an  imitation 
of  that  of  Sta.  Maria  Maggiore.  Over 
its  three  doors  are  some  beautiful  bas- 
reliefs  in  terra-cotta,  by  Luca  delta 
Eobbia.  Behind  the  altar  is  the  image 
of  the  Madonna  on  the  oak  from  which 
it  was  found  suspended,  and  which 
gives  name  to  the  church.  The  cam* 
panile  contains  a  bell  said  by  Calindri 
to  weigh  13,500  lbs.  The  ground  in 
front  of  this  convent  is  the  scene  of 
the  two  famous  fairs  of  Viterbo :  the 
first,  established  by  Leo  X.  in  1513, 
begins  on  the  day  of  Pentecost,  and  lasts 
Bfteen  days ;  the  second,  founded  by 
the  emperor  Frederick  II.  in  1S40^ 
begins  on  tlie  22nd  September  and 
ends  on  the  6th  October.  The  Villa 
Lante  is  remarkable  for  its  imposing 
architecture,  said  to  be  the  design  of 
Vignola.  ltwaabe^\xxi\Qi>]\2ci<^^^\!^t«Nft\ 
Cardinal  B.\ac\o««i:k^^tA!^^>a^  ^«x^- 


K.  26.— PLOBENCE  TO  ROME. — Cas&ltTAsso.    [|Sect.  T. 

i.le  i«  mniie  to  ushumi;  in  iie  |  wliicli  it  gave  the  nnme  of  Carmina 

I  the  RioiiiiUia  [lie  furm  ofuii  I  FesceDDiaa.       Nesr  it   gnd   about    7 

!  lobster.     It  is  now  nliiiast    miles  toulh  of  Bossanella,  is  tlie  laiae- 

•crted.      It  i>  rclatinl  tliat,  when  St.    nlile  village  «f  CortAiuna,  occupying 

aeo  vbiiL'd  Die  villa,  lie    the   aite  of  an  Etruscan   town,    tlie 

<r  much  goofl  the  mimey    name  oftrliieh   is  lost.      Haifa  mile 

it  n-ould  have  done  if'  from  it,  an  the  raad  to  Civita  Caste). 


Cardinal  ( 
mode  then 
Ihe  summi 
Villa.! 


.islheJtfmiiaWorf.orL 
of  Italy,  a  large  liloclt  of  pe 
feet  long,  and  9  leet  hlgti,  sai 
220  tom.  which  still  "logs 
as  Uie  cclchrated  ■'  Logxn 
CoRliFall. 


is  the  Etnm:iin  uame  '■  larth  V'el 

es,"  ill  letters  15  inches  in  length 

it  by  tlieir  labaurs.  On   out  b  the  tulkioak  through  which  tin 

■j    ancient  ViaAraerina  is  carried.      Two 

1   miles  irom  Coichiano,  on  the  rood  to 

!    Hosunello,  is  a  eurioiis  Etruscan  tomb, 

■cigb  .called  Punlone  del  Punle. 

"'/f  EicuBwos  TO  Castel  b'Asso,  Koit- 

iHjuely  placed   on    an    isolated  sion  which  can  he  marie  from  this  road 
■n  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber,    '»  tbat  to  Costel  d'Asso,  Ni 
.  little  inn  called  the  Catnpaiia, .  Uieda.    CaateliTAuo,  or,  as 
es  the  site  of  ancient  Uorta,  one  'timeecsUedliy  the  peasantry 
Diiliiary  coloaies  of  Augustus,    eiOi  <vas  the  nectopotis  of  the  Ettusi 
Ibe  ruinsof»fiiiehridge,called    city  of  CBstelluraAiiiii,di>iunt  abou 
bridge  of  Augustus,  and  some  ei'   miles  from  Viterbo.    When  it  is  stated 


EOiith,  the  picturesque 


the  diflfe  of  thi« 

own  of  Bttuw-  joining  vnlleys  are  eicatated  into 

il  walls,  marks  continued  series  of  cavern-sepulehi 

the  site  of  Castellum  Anierinum,  near  "f  enormous  size,  resembliog  nothl 

which  was  the  estate  of  Calpurilius,  else  ui  Europe,  and  snly  to  be  coi  . 

ratlier-iu-lav   of   Pliny  tite  youn;;cr.  pared  with  the  tombs  of  the  kingn  of 

In  tile  Val  d'Orte  the  small  lake  called  Tliebes,  the  traTellci  may  perhaps  be 

tlie  Valdemane  or  I^o  di  Bassano,  induced  to  prolong  his  jouincy  tor  the 

fllEed  up  with  rushes,  is  the  aocieot  purpose  of  visiting  so  remarkable  a 

Lake    Vadimoo,    whose   floating   ij-  spot      It  will  be  much  more  desirable 

lauds     aie     beautil'ully    described    in  t<J  li'te  hones  or  donkeys  fur  the  ex- 

sidense  at  the  villa  of  his  taihei-in-  riagej  and  those  who  do  not  wish  to 
law  gave  him  leisure  and  opportunity  return  to  Viterbo  may  proceed  by  Va- 
lo  observe  them.  Tlie  banks  of  the  '  tralla,  the  Vicus  Matriai,  the  way-  ' ' 
lake  are  celebrated  for  the  total  defeat    '  ■-    ■  ^      « 

of  the  Etruscans  by  the  Romans,  a.  c. 
909,  which  completely  destroyed  their 
ace  as  au  independent 

;ht  here  by  the  Etruscans  in  alii. 
with  the  Gauls  and  Boii,  but 
ley  were  again  defe.-ited  by  the  Ro- 
mans under  D.nlabelia.  A  few  miles 
outh  of  ftasBHuello,  Gallai,  a  town 
>f  some  consequence  in  the  middle 
fE5  issappcsed  to  mart  the  site  ol 
■  aiwient  Falisean  city  of  Fescen. 
■Ji,  noted  for  the  nuptial  ttougs  to 


u  called  Le  Capanaccc,  an 

dIfaeniM 

rough  Ca 

ranica  and 

Sutr 

(both  of 

uch  ore 

J  of  this 

oute),  to 

Ronciglionc 

the 

ejtpojt 

e  high  rood 

toR 

me.      It 

11  also  be 

carry  provi- 

ens  from  Viterbo,  and 

on  ni: 

account 

:d  Uke  t 
islble  1 


which 


The  best  guides  to  be  obtained  i 
Viterbo  are  Ruggieii,  a .  cot&eJioui 
keeper,  and  Giuseppe  Pemgini,  a  ba. 
iber.  \Bt\ieieisii«uAi\OBKs\QTO,lrave 
I  lets  »hoo\4  lUn  &Q01  NvWitVut  sMi  t«i 


JPapal States."]  r.  26- — Florence  to  rome. —  Castel  cTAsso,  229 


early  hour,  in  order  to  have  the  day 
before  them  ;  they  may  then  visit  the 
£}ur   valleys,    and    reach   Viterbo   or 
Ronciglione  in  good  time  before  dark. 
Tiie  principal  of  these  valleys  are  those 
of  Bieda  (the  Blera  of  Cicero)  and 
San   Giovanni  di   Bieda,  to  which  a 
pathway  leads  off  the  high  road  of 
Vetralla.     The  first  object  which  at- 
tracts attention  after  leaving  the  road 
is  a  remarkable]  ruined  fortress  of  the 
fifteenth  century,  called  Castel  d'Asso, 
marking  by  its  name,  as  well  as  by  the 
Etruscan  foundations  around  it,  the 
site  of   Castellum    Axia,    mentioned 
by  Cicero  as  one  of  the  strongholds  of 
Etruria.     Nothing  can  be  imagined 
more  grand  or  imposing  than  the  ap- 
pearance of  this  ruined  fortress  from  all 
parts  of  the  valley,  and  the  artist  might 
find  abundant  occupation  in  the  fine 
combinations  it  makes  with  the  sur- 
rounduig   scoiery.      Immediately   in 
front  of  the  castle,  and  far  down  in 
the  glen,  commences  the  long  line  of 
cavern-sepulchres,  completely  occupy- 
ing the  face  of  the  cliff  opposite  the 
castle,  and  running  up  both  sides  of 
the  valleys  which  fall  into  it.      These 
extraordinary  tombs  were  discovered 
by  Signor  Anselmi  of  Viterbo,  and  first 
made  known  by  Professor  Orioli  of 
Bologna.  Their  general  appearance  re- 
sembles the  Egyptian  style,  particu- 
larly in  the  doors,  which  are  narrower 
at  top  than  at  bottom  ;  over  many  of 
them  are  deep  inscriptions  in  the  oldest 
Etruscan  character,  the  letters  of  which 
in  several  instances  are  a  foot  high. 
They  are  also  interesting  in  the  history 
of  bltruscan  architecture,  as  presenting 
some  fine  examples  of  mouldings  ;  but 
they  want  the  projecting  cornice  which 
would    be  necessary  to  give  them  a 
complete    resemblance    to    Egyptian 
structures.      These    lofty    doorways, 
however,  like   those  observed  in  the 
sepulchres   of  Lycia,    Phrygia,    and 
Egypt,  are  merely  sculptured  in  the 
cliff;  a   smaller   door  at  their  base, 
easily  concealed  by  earth,  leads  into  the 
ante-chambers,  which  have  similar  false 
door^  at  the  base  of  which  are  the 
real    entrances  into    the  sepulchral 


chambers.  Most  of  these  are  sin- 
gle chambers,  but  some  are  double,  the 
inner  apartment  being  much  smaller 
and  lower  than  the  outer.  They  present 
a  great  diversity  of  size,  and  the  roofs 
are  frequently  vaulted.  In  some  of  the 
tombs  the  receptacles  for  the  dead  are 
sunk  side  by  side  in  the  rocky  floor 
of  the  chamber,  in  others  they  radiate 
from  the  centre,  and  in  others  there 
are  ledges  of  rock  along  the  sides  of 
the  apartmenti  in  which  sarcophagi 
were  placed.  Nearly  every  tomb  ap- 
pears to  have  been  a  family  sepulchre. 
In  the  neighbourhood  of  Bieda  bronze 
and  marble  figures,  vases,  and  scarabxi 
are  said  to  have  been  discovered  in 
great  abundance;  but  all  the  tombs 
have  evidently  been  plundered^  proba- 
bly by  the  Romans.  In  regard  to  the 
inscriptions  occasionally  visible  on  these 
tombs,  the  visitor  will  be  struck  by  the 
frequent  repetition  of  the  word  Ecasu, 
or  Ecctsuthinesl,  so  commonly  met  with 
in  Etruscan  tombs  in  other  parts  of  the 
country.  It  has  been  supposed  to 
signify  "  adieu ;"  and  "  it  would  seem,'* 
says  Sir  William  Gell,  *Hhsit  some 
general  meaning  must  be  expressed  by 
words  so  frequently  repeated,  but 
nothing  satisfactory  has  yet  appeared 
as  an  interpretation.  The  interpreta- 
tion of  the  inscription  at  Castel  d' Asso 
and  other  Etrurian  cities  has  hitherto 
wholly  defied  the  efforts  of  the  learned. 
It  is  in  vain  that  Lanzi  and  Passeri 
have  with  great  toil  and  learning  suc- 
ceeded to  a  certain'  degree  in  the  in- 
terpretation of  the  Umbrian  or  Eu- 
gubian  tables :  notwithstanding  the 
numerous  remains  of  Etruscan,  *  Ril 
avil '  (vixit  annos,  or  annos  vixit)  and 
some  proper  names  are  all  that  have 
ever  been  satisfactorily  made  out  in 
this  language.  It  may  be  observed 
that  brass  arms  have  been  found  in 
these  sepulchres,  which  seem  to  refer 
them  to  a  very  ancient  period.  It  is 
remarkable  that  scarabsi  also,  in  car- 
nelian  and  other  stones,  are  frequently 
met  with  here,  as  in  Egypt,  but 
always  wuVi  Gi^^Vl  ot  ^\x>xv»Xi.  vS^;^- 

1      M\xt  ex^W v\i%  V:cv<i  ^»^«^  ^^  ^^"^"^ 


230         itauTB  26. — pj-oremce  to  RoMS.—Bieda.        f Sect.  T. 


4'  Aaa,  travellers  should  prcrceed 
ritra/la,  s  U>vn  of  6000  souls,  sltuHtod 
on  the  edge  or  the  great  plain  of 
Etrnrii,  and  occupying  the  site  of 
Forum  Csssii,  from  wliieh  thej  maj 
euiljF  eiplore  the  mBCrelloui  necro- 
poli*  of  Non^hii  and  the  site  of  Bicda, 
cash  Hboul  6  mileii  distant.  There  ii 
■  smnll  inn,  or  oMttria,  it  Vetnilla,  but 
tlie  mcommodation  it  affords  is  only 
indlSercnl,  though  the  people  are 
obligiDg.  The  road  to  Narchia  lies 
over  hare  moors,  and  is  praiticoble 
only  on  foot  or  horsebaok.  The  tiilley  ' 
which  eontsiiis  the  tombs  is  a  perfect 
amphitheatre  in  form,  and  as  the  eyt 
ranges  along  the  fiice  of  the  cliff  on 
onesideofit.ncnrly  300 feet  »boTe the 
stream  which  flows  at  the  bottom,  it 
traces  a  long  and  almost  unbroken 
I    Kile  of   tombs,  adorned  with  pedi> 

BKiBlit I inn  like  thowat  Castel 

W,^  Asm,  but  more  imposing  in  effect. 
Almost  at  the  eitremitj'  of  the  line, 
are  the  two  sculptured  tombs  with 
pediments  and  Doric  friezes,  which 
hive  made  the  name  of  Norchia  cele- 
brated among  the  arohasologifits  of  Eu- 
rope. Of  these  lomba,  one  only  of  the 
pediments  is  complete;  the  half  of  the 
other  was  fbund  buried  in  the  earth 
near  it,  and  was  lately  for  sale  at 
Viterbo.  The  tympana  oF  the  pedi- 
ments arc  filled  with  figures  in  high 
relier.and  the  wall  under  the  pediment 
is  oovered  with  other  figures  in  bas- 
telieT,  nearly  as  large  ai  life.  The 
upper  figures  reprenent   the   various 

represent,  probably,  a' funeral  or  reli- 
gious procession ;  above  the  figures 
may  be  recagnitcd,  as  suspended  from 
llie  wall,  a  circular  shield,  a  winged 
genius,  a  helmet,  and  two  swoidB,and 
the  three  figures  which  close  the  pro- 
cession hear  the  twisted  rods,  which 
are  seen  in  no  other  place  except  the 
Typhon  tomb  at  Tarquinii,  Pro- 
feasor  Ortoli,  who  first  described  these 
tombs,    considers    that    their  Greek 


dilTers  in  no  degree  trom  that  of  the 
ordinary  tombs  in  the  vicinity.  Al- 
though there  are  many  more  tombi 
in  this  necropolis  than  there  are  at 
Costel  d'  As30,  it  is  remarkable  that 
no  vestige  of  an  Etrufican  inscription 
has  ever  been  found  here.  The  pio- 
luresque  Lombard  ehuroh  of  Norehia, 
now  in  ruins,  marks  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Etruscan  city,  but  its  ancient 


The  s. 


Bikable 


I  visited  from  Vetralla  is  BUda,  distant 
witbin  6  miles,  a  wretched  modem 
village,  occupying  the  site  of  the 
Etruscan  city  of  Blera,  on  the  Via 
Clodia,  which  passed  through  it,  and 
of  which  the  ancient  Etruscan  bridge 
stiil  exists,  under  the  name  of  tbePonto 
della  Booca.  There  is  no  inn  at 
Bieda,  and  the  only  respectable  hoooe 
in  the  village  is  that  of  the  proprie- 
tor, the  Fiedmontese  Count  di  San 
Giorgio,  who  recently  bought  this 
property,  and  with  it  the  feudal  title 
of  Duke  of  Bieda  and  sundry  feudal 
privileges  coDHected  with  ic.  The 
ohureh,  however,  contains  a  picture  of 
the  Flagellation,  by  Annibula  Caracei, 
ind  has  B  Roman  sarcophagus  in  front 


of  it 


rhich  w 


that  of  the  5th  or 
'titry  of  Home.  Their  interior 
s^no  raagniSoence  wbaterer,  and 


bourhood.  Both  the  modem  and  the 
ancient  town  were  placed  at  the 
exlrcmity  of  a  long,  narrowtoiigue  of 
land,  projecting  into  deep  ravines,  and 
communicating  with  them  by  narrow 
and  almost  precipitous  clelts  in  the 
tula  rock.  The  sides  of  these  ravines, 
in  every  direction,  excepting  where 
the  eliffi  face  the  north  and  east,  are 
literally  honeycombed  with  sepul- 
chral chambers,  rising  above  eaeh 
other  in  terraces,  and  generally  shaped 
into  the  Ibrms  ofbouses,  with  sloping 
roots  and  moulded  doorways,  like 
those  of  Norchio.  In  fact,  Bieda 
surpa^es  all  other  Etruscan  sites  \a 
the  architectural  variety  and  interest 
of  its  tombs.  Id  the  ravine  on  the 
east  of  the  town  is  a  oooioal  moss  of 
rock,  formVnR  intern 
ltwi>  Ehaiii\ieTH,  sn^ 


A\c^l 


Apal  SMes^"]  u.  26«— -florknce  to  rome*— Gipranica.  231 


into  a  series  of  circular  steps,  con- 
traetiiig  towards  the  summit,  which 
probably  supported  a  figure  like  those 
of  Vulci  and  Tarquinii.  In  the  ravine 
on  the  west  of  the  town  is  an  ancient 
bridge  of  three  arches,  the  central  of 
which  is  semicircular  and  split  through- 
out its  entire  length  by  an  earthquake 
of  many  ages  past.  The  architecture 
off  this  bridge  is  superior  in  its  con- 
atmctioQ  to  that  of  the  bridge  al- 
ready mentioned,  and  for  that  reason, 
though  perfectly  Etruscan  in  its  cha* 
racter,  it  is  considered  to  belong  to  a 
period  subsequent  to  the  Roman  con- 
quest of  Etruria.  The  scenery  of  the 
refines  around  Bieda  is  of  the  wildest 
and  most  impressive  character,  and 
artists  who  have  exhausted  even  the 
grand  scenery  of  Civita  Castellana, 
will  find  in  these  solitary  glens  com- 
binations of  ancient  art  and  romantic 
nature,  at  onee  novel  and  inexhaust- 
ible. 

If  an  examination  of  these  extra- 
ordinary valleys  should  lead  the  tra- 
veller to  desire  a  more  minute  ac- 
quaintance with  this  district  of  Etruria, 
be  will  be  able  to  make*  an  excur- 
sion firom  Vetralla  to  Corneto  (Tar- 
quinii), 1 8  miles  distant  by  the  high 
road,  which  leads  through  it  from  Vi- 
terbo  to  Civita  Vecchia;  but  as  this 
would  lead  him  altogether  away  firom 
the  Roman  road,  and  would  require 
preparations  in  the  way  of  introduc- 
tions, we  shall  make  it  the  subject  of 
a  separate  journey,  and  shall  therefore 
describe  it  under  **  Excursions  from 
Rome.** 

The  traveller  who  is  desirous  of  pro- 
ceeding to  Rome  without  returning  to 
Viterbo,  can  do  so  by  following  the 
Via  Cassia  from  Vetralla  to  Monte- 
rosi,  visiting  Sutri  on  his  way.  A 
diligence  runs  once  or  twice  a  week 
between  Vetralla  and  Rome,  perform- 
ing the  distance  professedly  in  9  hours. 
On  leaving  Vetralla,  a  gradual  ascent 
leads  us  thence  to  the  ridge  of  the 
Monte  Cimino,  beyond  which  is  the 
roadside  osteria  called  Le  Capanacce,' 
in  whose  walla  are  embedded  many 
niicM  of  the  Vieua  Afatrini^  «  Roman 


station,  situated  nearly  2  miles  beyond 
it  and  still  retaining  its  ancient  namew 
3  or  4  miles  further  we  arrive  at  Ca- 
pranica,  a  small  modern  town,  which 
occupies  the  site  of  an  Etruscan  one 
whose  name  is  lost,  and  is  celebrated 
throughout  the  Papal  States  for  its 
mineral  waters,  called  by  the  pea^ 
sentry  the  Fonte  Carbonari,  which 
are  in  high  repute  in  diseases  of  the 
bladder  and  kidneys.  There  is  no  inn 
at  present  at  Capranica,  but  travellers 
may  obtain  accommodation  at  the 
house  of  a  very  civil  and  obliging 
butcher  called  Ferri,  About  3  miles 
beyond  Capranica-  is  Sutri,  a  descrip- 
tion of  which  will  be  found  at  the  end 
of  the  present  Route. 


The  immediate  neighbourhood  oi 
Viterbo  is  memorable  for  a  battle 
fought  there  in  1234,  between  the 
army  of  the  emperor  in  cdnj  unction 
with  the  forces  of  the  pope,  and  the 
troops  of  Rome,  then  in  opposition 
to  their  own  pontifi^  who  by  a  more 
singular  coincidence  formed  an  alU* 
ance  with  his  hereditary  enemy  for 
the  purpose  of  repressing  the  insur- 
rection of  his  subjects.  The  papal 
forces  on  this  occasion  were  com- 
manded by  an  English  prelate,  Peter 
de  Rupibus,  bishop  of  Winchester,  by 
whom  the  Romans  were  defeated  with 
immense  loss. 

[An  additional  horse  is  required  by 
the  tariff  from  Viterbo  to  Tlmpoata.] 

The  road  on  leaving  Viterbo  begins 
immediately  to  ascend  the  steep  vol- 
canic hill  of  Monte  Cimino,  the  clas- 
sical Ciminus,  whose  dense  forests 
served  as  a  barrier  to  Etruria  against 
Rome  for  so  many  ages  prior  to  the 
memorable  march  of  Fabius.  It  is 
clothed  with  Spanish  broom,  heath, 
and  brushwood,  among  which  tower 
some  noble  oaks  and  chesnut-trees, 
interspersed  occasionally  with  stone- 
pines.  The  summit  commands  an 
extensive  view,  reaching  as  far  north 
as  Radicofani,  and  embracing  within 
its  range  Soxactt&t  XV\«  vu^AXXi  tv\%^  ^"^ 
the  Ai^ntvktviia,  m^^  VJkv^  ^«&\VKt- 
\rancan.     B«V>^\*V:Ki*>a«»^^*aX 


F 


—FLORENCE  TO  ROMK. — CapTaroJa.   fSeot.X 


ID  Lugo  di  Vico,  or  Lacua 


Tempesti,    «nA    by   Vigno 


B   by,. 


•■BtanlDl 


the  lout  remarkable  of  tbe  maajr 
t«it!Sting  wDcka  of  art  fur  which  I 
m^Mtio  ciuIIb  is  renmikable.      Each 
1   L'ImpMte  Of  La   MonUgnu,   a    room  is  devoted  to  lome  inoident 
poit-Btation.  the  blstorj  of  the  Farnese  faniilj. 

The  road  aow  descends  the  maun-  to  lome  Hllegorical  subject ;  "  Niu 
tain,  and  in  clear  weather  affurda  cosa,"  sayi  Lanii,  speaking  of  Taildua 
tbe  traveller  by  thi^  route  hjs  flrat  ZuccarL,  ^^gli&nomeal  mondo  quantc 
'  Rome.  Tliis  magniSceDt  le  pilture  del  palaao  Farneae  di 
t'tev  eitcnds  over  the,  whole  Cam-  j  Caprarolo,  cbe  si  trovano  intagliatc  In 
pagna  firoin  Otrieoli  to  Froscali,  frooi ,  giutio  volume  dal  Prenner  nel  1748  i 
Tivoli  to  Ihc  HB,  backed  by  the  |  contcngono  le  gestc  de'  Famei'i,  il- 
richly  tinted  Apennines  Soracte  ,  lustri  in  toga  e  in  nimii  vi  ha  pure 
■eena  at  the  traveller'a  feet,  and  he  allre  istotie  profane  e  aacri."  Tht 
may  ca^Iy  distinftuish  the  dome  of  St.  j  Sahi  degU  Annnli  baa  the  line  &eaec 
Peler'ssraoug  the  buildings  of  llome,  i  of  Tnddco  Zuccari,  representing  Iht 
Tile  road  soon  btirts the eajtern  margin   entry   of  Charles  V.    into    Paris  be- 


of  the  Lsgo  di  Vico,  a  beautiful  basli 
about  three  miles  in  circumferenca 
whoce  steep  udes  are  covered  will 
liiiuTiant  forests.  It  has  all  the  ap- 
pearanee  of  a  oiater,  and  its  vo" 
origin  IS  pnnodby  the  physical : 
lure  of  the  surrounding  hills,  and 
partly  ..confirmed  by  the  ancient  tra- 
ditioni  that  it  was  caused  by  a  sudden 
during  which  a  city  called 


■allowed  u; 


\\  CBStl 


might  be  seen  at  the  butlom  of  the 
Before  reaching  Roncigllo 


>nd    lea< 


rough  a  Cbrest  abounding  lu  son 
^  larmiog   scenes    to   the    celebrate 
castle    of   Caprarola,    the    undoubti 
«  of  VignoU.      It  was  bui 
hy  that  Illustrious  architect  for  Ca 
dlnal  Alessaudio  Farnese,  nephew  of 
I'aul  HI.,   on    iha  lower   slopes    of 
Slonte  Cimioo.     As    a  specimen   of 
tbe  fortified  domestic  archiieciurc  of 
the  siiteenlh  century,  it  is  perhaps 
unrivalled,  at    least  in  Italy.      Il  U 
pentagooal     in    form,    and    is     sur- 
rounded with  bastions   and    a  fosse. 
llie  substructions  of  the  palace  are  of 

The  apartments   are   decorated  with 
frescoes  and  arabesques,  by  Fedetigo,  1  to\a,  wvade  * 
Ottaviano,  and    Taddeo   Zuccari,  bs\t.l.i»X  a\iett^7 


and  Car. 

nBse.whoisridingoQainule.  Taddi 
has  introduced  himself  and  his  tn 
brothers  as  the  supporters  of  tl 
canopy.  Tbe  Stanza  del  Sonno  is  r 
marka'ble  for  its  fine  poetical  subjeoi 
now  nearly  destroyed,  which  we 
sujfgeBled  by  Annibale  Caro,  whose 
letter  on  the  subject  has  been  pub. 
lished  in  tiie  "  Letlere  Pittoriche,"  and 

the  ■' Biblioteca  SeeltB,      

Milan.  All  the  subjects  illustrated 
by  tha  Zuccari  are  engraved  in  Pran- 
ner's  "  Illustri  Fatti  Kamesiani  colo 
riti  nel  Real  Pal.  di  Cajirarota,' 
t|uoted  by  Lanxi,  and  published  ai 
Home  in  1T4S.  The  arabesques  of 
Tempesta  are  also  interesting 
top  of  the  stairs  he  has  rep 
himself  on  horseback  in  the  fenule 

pose  of  escaping  from  his 
he  was  pursued  and  overtaken  by 
the  people  of  tbe  castle,  who  com- 
pelled him  to  return  and  complete  bu 
engagements.  In  the  gardens  is  tht 
elegant  Palaxitu/lo,   designed  by  Vig- 


JPapiU  States."]    r.  26.^-florence  to  rome. — Sutri. 


233 


of  the  Villa  Lanti  at  Viterbo:  «  Che 
sara  il  paradiso !  '*  he  remarked ;  *<  Oh  1 
meglio  sarebbe  stato  aver  dato  a' 
poveri  tanto  denaro  spesovi.'*  The 
answer  of  Cardinal  Farnese  may  be 
regarded  as  a  suitable  reply  to  all 
similar  observations  of  mistaken  phi- 
lanthropists :  '*  Di  averlo  egli  dato  a' 
poveri  a  poco  a  poco*  ma  &ttoglielo 
guadagnare  con  i  loro  svdori.*' 

1  Ronciglione  {Inns  much  im- 
proved within  the  last  three  or  four 
years.  La  Posta,  formerly  bad  and 
dirty,  is  now  said  to  be  respectably 
conducted ;  the  Aquila  Nera  is  clean 
and  comfortable,  with  a  civil  land- 
lord).  An  additional  horse  from  Ron- 
ciglione up  the  mountain  tol'imposta. 
This  is  the  last  place  entirely  free 
from  malaria  between  Viterbo  and 
Rome.  It  is  a  picturesque  town  of 
4600  souls,  romantically  situated  on  a 
precipitous  point  of  rock  above  a  deep 
and  wooded  ravine,  in  the  sides  of 
which  are  several  sepulchral  cham- 
bers marking  the  site  of  an  Etruscan 
town,  the  name  of  which  has  been  lost. 
Its  ruined  Gothic  castle  is  a  striking 
object  on  approaching  the  town. 
Ronciglione  was  burnt  by  the  French 
during  the  first  invasion,  but  it  has 
since  risen  into  importance  as  a  ma- 
nufacturing town,  and  its  iron  works 
and  paper  mills  are  particularly  flou- 
rishing. The  iron  is  imported  from 
Elba,  aUd.  is  smelted  at  Bracciano  be- 
fore it  reaches  Ronciglione.  Not- 
withstanding the  impulse  given  to  the 
town  by  these  establishments,  many 
of  its  fine  old  palaces  are  still  com- 
paratively deserted,  and  fast  falling  to 
decay.  Tlie  Roman  gate  bears  the 
name  of  Odoardo  Farnese.  On  leav- 
ing tne  town  we  enter  upon  the  cele- 
brated plain,  so  well  known  as  the 
Campagna  of  Rome,  a  tract  of  country 
stretching  from  the  hills  of  Etruria  to 
the  Circa?an  promontory  near  Terra- 
cina,  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
mountains,  and  by  the  Mediterranean 
on  the  west :  its  length  is  estimated  at 
about  90  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth 
at  about  SO  miles. 

From  Ronciglione  a  road,  practica- 


ble for  carriages,  leads  to  the  Etrus- 
can town  of  Sutri  (3  miles),  whence 
another  tolerable  road  communicates 
with  the  high  post-road  near  Mon- 
terosi  (7  or  8  miles) ;  so  that  tra- 
vellers encumbered  with  heavy  car- 
riages Height  make  a  detour  from 
Ronciglione,  either  in  the  light  cari- 
telle  of  the  country  or  on  horseback, 
and  rejoin  their  carriages  at  Monte- 
rosi. 

EXCURSION   TO    SUTRI, 

There  is  no  inn  at  Sutri,  but  clean 
beds  and  tolerable  accommodation  may 
be  obtained  at  the  house  of  a  butcher, 
called  Francocci. 

Sutri  occupies  the  precise  site  of 
the  ancient  Etruscan  city  of  Su- 
trium,  whose  alliance  with  Rome 
exposed  it  to  frequent  attacks  and 
sieges  from  the  other  tribes  of  Etru- 
ria. In  these  operations  the  military 
prowess  of  Camillus,  of  Fabius,  and 
of  other  warriors  illustrious  in  Roman 
history,  was  instrumental  in  saving 
Sutrium  from  its  enemies.  The  pro- 
verb **  ire  Sutrium  **  commemorates  an 
incident  which  took  place  durmg  the 
most  remarkable  of  these  attacks  in 
365,  when,  at  the  urgent  entreaty  of 
the  citizens,  Camillus  and  the  Roman 
army  recovered  the  city  from  the  con- 
federated Etruscans  on  the  very  day 
on  which  they  entered  it  as  conque- 
rors. From  the  rapidity  of  this  double 
exploit,  <*  ire  Sutrium"  became  a  pro- 
verb. The  city  is  situated  on  a  long 
insulated  rock  of  volcanic  tufa,  form- 
ing, in  combination  with  the  ravines 
by  which  it  is  surrounded,  an  ex- 
ceedingly striking  picture.  A  bridge 
formerly  connected  it  with  the  high 
table-land  adjoining,  but  it  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1798,  In 
the  deep  valley  passed  on  approaching 
the  gate  from  this  side  are  numerous 
sepulchral  chambers,  but  they  are  not 
so  remarkable  as  those  we  shall  ob- 
serve in  the  lower  valley  on  leaving 
the  town  for  Monterosi.  On  the 
south  side  oC  iVvft  lo^w  w.^  svixsv^  ^"^^a 
fragmenXs  kA  l\vft  wci^ivsiwx.  >Nvi>\^.  ^^ 
the  live  ^«l«s  tvq^  QVactN^aX^^^'*  V\vtvsss. 


ROUTE  26. — rLOBKNCE  TO  SOME. — SwtH.     ^Sect.  1 


w»ll,  and  one  in  the  northern 
nnv  blocked  up,  but  itill  callec 
Porta  Furio,  from  the  tradition  thai 


bears 


I    by  whici 


iubtertaiieanjiasaaguswliich  areknown 
:a  exist  beneath  [he  clifls  of  Sutri, 
ind  vhiab  tradition  has  invented  with 
nystarioUB  hiBtorieB,  are  believed  to 
nave  been  used,  both  ag  plaeea 
livine  worship  and  of  burial  by  t 
!at\y  Cbriatians,  during  the  persec 


by  Camillus,  Tbe  latier  has 
■lightly  pointed  arch,  and  a  eanii- 

by  many  as  more  recent  than 

lers.  The  two  remaining  gates, 
at  each  eitrcmity   of  tbe  town, 

lodem,   although    one  of  them 

an  inscription  attributing  the 
foundation  of  SuCrium  to  the  Felas- 
gi  (I)  nod  the  other  haa  on  inaorip- 
tioo  aetting  fbrth  the  antiquity  of  tha 
city.  At  the  foot  of  an  insulated 
eminenee,  crowned  by  the  villa  of  the 
Mircbese  Savorelli,  embosomed  in  a 
tiiiek  and  picturesque  grove  of  ilai 
and  eypresa,  is  the  ancient  amphi* 
theatre  uf  Statilius  Taurus,  excavated 
in  the  tufa,  and  so  perfect  as  to  de- 
serve perhaps  to  be  regarded  an  unique. 
TTie  steps  are  worn  in  a  few  plaeea, 
but  all  its  ourridon  and 

served.     In  a  few  places  some  brjet- 

work   may   be  rcco^ised,  but 

where     there     enisled     obvioui 

fleiencies  in  the  rock ;  with  (h 

Oeption     the    amphitheatre    hn 

nuaonry,    but    is  hewn  out    of    tbe    have  been  removed,  and  nothing  re- 

about  160  feet,  and  its  greatest  breadth  them.  These  chambers  are  well  worthy 
about  132  feet.  Some  doubt  ciista  |  of  eiaminationi  and  indeed  Sutri  has 
whether  this  interesting  structure  is  i  been  so  little  eiplored  that  ff  often  a 
of  Etruscan  or  Roman  workmanship  ;  more  ample  field  perhaps  than  any 
if  it  be  Etruscan,  it  may  be  rpgntdcd  other  Etruscan  settlement  so  easily 
as  tbe  type  of  all  the  amphitheatres  accessible  from  the  high  road.  Ca- 
built  by  Imperial  Rome.  Micalicon.  '  pranica  and  the  road  from  Sutri  to 
ndeiB  it  Etruscan,  Nibby  refers  il  to  Vetralla  are  described  in  a  previons 
the  time  of  Au^usttis,  and  Canioa  re-,  page.  Leaving  Sutri  for  Rome,  we 
garda  it  us  Roman,  on  tbe  ground, ;  again  join  the  Roman  road  near  the 
prindpally,  that  the  character  uf  the  Junction  of  tbe  two  roads  from  Siena 
architectural  details  is  Roman.  The  |  and  Perugia,  and  soon  reach  MoutC' 
most  reasonable  eoi^ccture  probably  is  \  rosi. 

thatwhich  makes  it  an  Etruscan  work  I  

period  subsequent  to    Etruscan        The  direct  road  Flrom  Ronci^l 


town,  in  the  midst  of  a  thick  wood,  is  a 
sepulchral  chamber  with  a  pillar  in 
the  centre,  called  the  "  Grotta  d"  Or- 
lando,*^ iu  which  tradition  relates  I 
Charleniagnu's  celebrated  Paladin  wai 
born;  the  inhabitants  also  claim  f 
tiu9  Pilate  as  a  native  of  Sutri  I  ' 
modern  town  has  a  population  of  SOOO 
souls,  but,  alUiough  several  popes  ia 
the  eleventh  and  twelfth  centuries  held 
councib  there,  it  contains  nothing  of 
remarkable  interest!  'he  views  from 
some  of  its  oldhousos  overlooking  the 
valley  are  very  beautiful.  On  descend- 
.  ing  from  the  Porta  Romans,  a  per- 
I  pendicular  hce  of  rock,  on  the  right 
hand,  is  seen  filled  with  sepulchral 
chambers,  many  of  which  have  traces 
if  columns,  pediments,  and  architec- 
urol  fa^des.  Several  of  these  have 
apparently  been  fronted  with  stone  of 


independence,  and  yet  before  Etruria 
had  lost  all  her  national  characteris.    of  particular  notice 
iScis  Boder  the  Hoinan  yoke.      In  the        1     Montoroai, 
JScb  of  tbe    cliS",    above  the   amphi-l      1    Baccano, 
(Aea/re,  are  numerous  sepulchral  ca-\      1    la  Sftotw,, 
•vrns,    one    of  which    has   been  con-\       1\  Row*. 


ling  worthy 


JPapal  States  J]      route  27. — Florence  to  rome. 


235 


ROUTE  27. 


nOBJQfCB 


TO   &OMX   B7   AREZZO  AKD 

PXBUOIA* 

POBtS. 

Florence  to  Pontassieve         -  1^ 

Pontasdeve  to  Incisa    -        -  1 J 

Inctsa  to  &  Giovanni   .         .  1 

S.  Giovanni  to  Levane  -  1 

Levane  to  Ponticiano  .         -  1 

Ponticiano  to  Arezzo    -         •  1 

Arezzo  to  Rigutino      -        -  1 

Rigutino  to  Camuscia  -         •  1 

Camusciato  Casa  del  Piano  -  1| 

C.  del  Piano  to  Magione       -  1 
Magione  to  Perugia     - 
Perugia  to  S.  Maria  degli  Angiolil 


n 


S.  Maria  to  Foligno 
Foligno  to  Le  Vene 
Le  Vene  to  Spoleto 
Spoleto  to  Strettura 
Strettura  to  Temi 
Temi  to  Nami    ... 
Narnl  to  Otricoli 
Otricoli  to  Borghetto  - 
Borghetto  to  Civita  Castellana 
C.  Castellana  to  Nepi 
Kepi  to  Monterosi . 
Monterosi  to  Baccano  - 
Baccano  to  La  Storta   - 
La  Storta  to  Rome 


1 
1 
1 
1 
I 
1 
1 

i 

I 
1 

i 
1 

1 

n 


27J 


InnM  on  the  road : — Incisa,  La  Posta  ; 
S.  Giovanni,  Leone  d'Oro;  Levane, 
La  Posta;  Arezzo,  Arme  d'lnghil- 
terra.  La  Posta ;  Castiglione  Fioren- 
tino,  Leone  Bianco  (a  vetturino  inn)  ; 
Casa  del  Piano,  La  Posta ;  Passignano 
(a  vetturino  inn)  ;  Perugia,  £uropa, 
Gran  Brettagna;  Foligno,  Tre  Mori, 
Grande  Albergo,  La  Posta ;  Spoleto, 
La  Posta;  Temi,  Europa,  Isole  Bri- 
tanniche,  Fortuna ;  Nami,  Campana ; 
Civita  Castellana,  La  Posta,  Croce 
Bianca,  II  Moro  (the  two  latter  vettu- 
rino inns)  ;  Nepi,  La  Posta,  La  Pace; 
Monterosi,  La  Posta ;  Le  Sette  Vene(jgoodi 
vetturino  inn);  Baccano,  La  Posta. 

Before    leaving   Florence    persons 

travelling  with   their  own    carriage 

should  write  to  their  correspondent  or 

hanker  at  Rome,  or   to   the  British 

consul,   for  a  iascta  passare  for   the 


frontier  custom-house  at  Monte  Gua- 
landro,  and  for  the  Porta  del  Popolo. 
§  2.    Passports  must  have  the  visa  of 
the  British  minister  at  Florence,  the 
police,  and    the  Papal   nuncio.  §  I. 
This  beautiful  road  is  five  posts  and  a 
quarter  longer  than  that  by  Siena,  but 
surpasses  it  both  in  picturesque  and 
in  historical  interest,  and  the  inns  are 
as -good  on  this  road  as  they  are  bad 
on  the  other.     On  leaving  Florence 
it  ascends  the  upper  Val  d'Arno,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and  follows 
the  curve  of  the  Amo  as  fiir  as  Incisa. 
There  is  a  more  direct  road  from 
Florence  to  Incisa  (15  miles)  through 
S,  Donato ,•  which  is  generally  followed 
by  the  vetturini.     It  is  seven  miles 
shorter ;  but  as  it  crosses  the  chain  of 
the  Chianti,  it   is   much   more   hilly 
than  the  post  road,  which  is  level  as 
far  as  Pontassieve,    and    very   hilly 
thence  to  Incisa.     From  the  summit 
of  the   pass  of  S.  Donato  the  view 
looking  back  over  the  valley  of  Flo- 
rence is  extremely  fine,  and  in  clear 
weather  extends  to  the  snowy  moun- 
tains of  Pistoja.     On  the  other  side 
is  a  noble  view   of  the  upper  Val 
d*Arno.     The  road  winds  round  the 
hill  on  which  stands  the  villa  di  Torre 
a   Cona,   belonging  to   the    Marquis 
Rinuccini,  whose  family  constructed 
this  portion  of  the  road  in  order  to 
bring  it  near  their  house,  while  a  per- 
fectly  level    road   might  havQ  been 
formed  in   the  valley   below.       The 
grounds  of  the  villa  command  a  mag- 
nificent view  over   Florence  and   its 
neighbourhood. 

The  post-road  is  less  hilly  than  that 
by  San  Donato,  but  the  beauties  of 
the  upper  valley  of  the  Arno  do  not 
begin  until  we  approach  Incisa.  About 
a  mile  from  Florence,  on  the  left  hand, 
before  reaching  Rovizzano,  is  the  an- 
cient monastery  of  S.  Salvi,  the  refec- 
tory of  which  contains  a  fresco  of  St* 
Benedict  and  other  Saints,  and  a  Last 
Supper,  considered  to  be  the  master- 
piece of  Andrea  del  Sofio,     It  is  also 
memorable  as   th«   te^t  ^\\'&x^  >&a 
emperoT    Hcnrj  N\\.  cacww^^^   vb^ 
1312,  prioT  to  \\»  »ft^  Q^  ^\w«««»% 


H.  27 tLoRtNCE  TO  itQ-MZ.  —  PbntassmV.    fSecf.X. 


UDdertaken  kt  the  BUggcslion  of 
Danic,  who  vaa  soon  la  be  bjuished  ^ 
trom  ii  for  e*er. 

i{  FoDUsiuevu,  ■  small  town  sud 
Mit-itBliua  on  the  Sivve,  n  liCLk-nlwe  , 
ia  Junction  witli  the  Arno.  The  new  \ 
mountun-ioBd  to  Farll  hcmicbes  off 
Rt  thU  place  (Uuute  8.),  sad  tliere 
ii  also  >  road  through  the  Upper  Val 
a'Amo  ( aa  miles),  tu  Bihieoa,  and  ( 1 8 
further)  to  Arezia.    From  Punluisicve 

Ihtee  gnat  sanctuaries  of  Tuscanji 
—  Vallombrasa,  Canialdoli,  and  La 
Tenia  1  the  first  of  which  is  peculiarly 
inCereating  lo  Uie  English  traieller  aa 
the  icene  which  furnished  our  great 
poet  with  the  details  o(  his  "  delicious 
Paradise."  [Haml-Book  for  Nartherti 
Aoly.]  The  road  soon  after  leaving 
PoDtaisieTe,  lalluwing  the  bend  of  the 
liver,  turns  rapidl;  ta  the  south,  and  pre- 


,  pauing 


ful 

in  Italjr.  About  midway  between 
Fontasueve  and  Incisa,  a  brid|;e  over 
the  AtQQ  leads  tu  I'aMe  a  Rigaano. 
The  Arno  is  crossed  iuimedlulely  op- 

.    I|  Inciaa  (  /■»,   La   Pasta,  tolera- 
ble and  civil),  a  small  town  in  which  the 
fiuoUy  of  Petrarch  had  it^  origin.    The 
bed  of  the  Arno  liere  cuts  through  the 
saksreous   beds  of  tlie   Pieim-i 
Girmatian.      We   now   proceed   . 
the  Icfl  bank  of  t 
through  Figline  by 
country  as  Sir  as  Levane. 

I.arge  quantities  of  fossil  bones 

the  volleys  north  of  Figline,  aasue 
■with  fresh-water  sheila,  ueat  Lt 
and  Montevarcbi,  and  in  the  plain  of 
Arezzo,  The  lulian  antiquaries,  ig- 
norant of  natural  history,  and  eager 
to  ooDuect  everything  on  this  road 
with  Hannibal,  at  once  proclaimed 
them  to  be  the  rcmaina  of  the  Car- 
thaginian elephants.  The  fossil  banet 
include  those  of  the  mastodon,  hippo- 
potamus, elephant,  rhinoceros,  and 
Afsaa.  The  upper  Val  d'Aroo  ia' 
—~--kable  lor  iti  interesting  strata, 
■*' —    '"    fresh -water    ttetacea, 


lich  may  be  studied  with  great  ad- 

nUge  at  Monte  Carlo,  about  a  mile 

nth-east  of  San  Giovanni.      These 

rious  fbrmatiouE,  evidently  the  de- 

sitsof  a  fresh-water  lake,  will  aObrd 

ich  interest  to  the  eeologiat  who 

B  time  to  linger  on  thjs  road. 

1  S-  Giovanni  (  /nii,  Leone  d'Oro). 

This  little  town  is  memoralile  as  the 

rthplace  of  Masaccio  i  it  rccuUa  also 

IE  name  of  another  native  painter, 

iovaani  Manuoiii,  better  tnowu  aa 

ioraani    da    S,    Giovaiaii,    extolled 

/  Lanzi  aa  one  of  the  best   tteiea- 

paintera  of  Italy.      In  the   CalMedriJ 

aa  still  Id  be  seen  some  interesting 

examples   of    his   bold    and    origirral 

style :  on  the  left  sleps  ascendiiig  to 

it  is  his  fresco  of  the  Annunciation  ; 

right,  the  Sposaliiio ;  at  the 

higbaltaris  the  beheading  of  St.  John, 

1  in  the  right  aisle  the  St.  Joseph. 

the  adjoining  church  of  S.  Lorenio 

lapaintingoftheVtrginaudChUa. 

;h  sainCa,  by  the  school  of  Sieni, 

1  several  other  good  quattroeantiill 

lures;  the  Annunciation  at  the  third 

altar  of  the  right  aisle  is  by  Matacci 

On  the  left  of  the  door  is  shown  tl 

miserable  spectacle  of  a  withered  body 

ofa  man,  built  up  in  the  church-wall, 

and  discovered  3  te'x  years  ago  during 

some  repairs.      It  still  remaina  in  its 

original  position,  but  nothing  Is  knoivn 

of  its   history.      "  A    narrow    door," 

saysfleadley,in  hiaLellenftom.  Italy, 

"hfla  been  made  to  swing  over  it,  lo 

protect  it  from  injury  and  ^ield  it 

from  the  eye  of  those   who   wonhip 

in  the  church.      The  fiame  indicjiea 

a  powerful  man,  and  though  it  is  but 

a   skeleton,   the    whole   attitude  and 

aspect  give   one  the  impi 

death  of  agony.      The  arir 

head  is  slightly  bowed,       '  "' 


meapuad 


houlder 


vated,  at 


0  effji 


breatlie,  while  the  vErrtace — bereft 
of  muscles  as  it  is— seems  lull  of 
suffering.  This  unhappy  man  i 
to  have  died  of  suHiicalion,  as  b 
huilt  up  alive  in  the  wall ;  it  is  evident. 


no    a'^tt   tVA\>-s 


Ptqaai  SicUesJ}     r.  27* — Florence  to  rome. — Arezzo.      2S7 


coffin*  and  no  mason  work  round  the 
body.  The  poor  civility  of  a  savage 
was  not  shown  here,  in  knocking  off 
the  points  of  the  stones,  to  give  even 
the  appearance  of  regularity  to  the 
enclosure.  He  was  packed  into  a 
rough  wall  and  built  over,  beginning 
at  the  feet.  It  is  difficult  to  tell  any- 
thing of  the  manner  of  death,  whether 
painful  or  not,  by  any  skeleton,  for 
the  face  has  always  the  appearance  of 
suffering,  but  there  are  certain  indi- 
cations about  this  which  show  that 
the  death  was  a  painful  one,  and 
caused  by  suffocation.  The  arms  are 
not  crossed  gently  or  quietly  in  the 
decent  composure  of  death,  but  far 
over,  as  by  a  painful  effort  or  by  force. 
The  shoulders  are  elevated,  as  if  the 
last  strong  effort  of  the  man  was  for 
breath.  The  bones  of  the  toes  are 
curled  over  the  edge  of  the  stone  on 
which  he  stands,  as  if  contracted  in 
agony  when  life  parted.  He  appears 
to  have  been  fully  six  feet  high,  with 
broad  chest  and  shoulders,  and  strong 
limbed.  »* 

At  Montevarchi,  the  chief  market 
and  agricultural  town  of  the  valley, 
the  rcMid  begins  to  leave  the  Arno,  and 
crosses  a  small  stream  called  the  Am- 
bra,  shortly  before  it  arrives  at  Levane. 
Montevarchi  is  oflen  made  a  sleeping- 
place  by  the  vetturini ;  the  inn  is  only 
tolerable.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Ac- 
cademia  Val  d'Arnese,  the  museum 
of  which,  rich  in  fossil  remains  of 
this  district,  is  well  worth  a  visit  from 
the  scientific  traveller. 

1  Levane  {Inrif  La  Posta,  very 
tolerable). 

The  next  10  miles  are  very  hilly, 
the  road  crossing  several  deep  gullies 
in  the  Lacustrine  formation  of  the 
pkdn  of  Arezzo. 

1   Ponticino,  a  mere  post-station. 

A  few  miles  before  reaching  Arezzo, 
near  the  villaj^e  of  Prat'antico,  the  road 
crosses  the  Chiana  canal,  by  which  the 
beautiful  and  fertile  Val  di  Chiana, 
the  ancient  **  Palus  Clusina,"  regarded 
as  the  granary  of  Tuscany,  is  drained. 

1  Amexxo.  (Imhs  :  Arme  d*Inghil- 
tern.    La  Po§ta,   both   very  good; 


L*£uropa.)  This  ancient  city,  the 
representative  of  one  of  the  most 
powerful  cities  of  the  Etruscan  league, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  declivity 
of  a  range  of  hills  which  give  it  the 
form  of  an  amphitheatre.  It  abounds 
not  only  in  ecclesiastical  antiquities 
of  the  middle  ages,  biit  in  historical 
associations  with  many  illustrious 
names  in  Italian  literature  and  art. 
It  was  the  birthplace  of  Mecsenas, 
Petrarch,  Vasari,  and  a  long  list  of 
eminent  men  in  every  branch  of  human 
knowledge — so  long,  indeed,  that  the 
historian  Villani  attributes  their 
number  to  the  influence  of  the  air ; 
and  Michael  Angelo,  who  was  bom 
at  Caprese  in  the'neighbourhood,  good 
humouredly  complimented  Vasari,  by 
attributing  his  talent  to  its  climate  : 
"  Se  io  ho  nulla  di  buono  nell*  ingegno, 
egli  e  venuto  dal  nascere  nella  sottilita 
deir  aria  del  vostro  paese  di  Arezzo.*' 
One  of  the  most  celebrated  natives  of 
Arezzo  in  modem  times  was  Count 
Fossombroni,  the  late  prime  minister 
of  Tuscany.  The  renown  acquired 
by  this  patriotic  nobleman  as  an 
engineer  and  mathematician,  in  con- 
nection with  the  draining  of  the 
Maremma,  has  been  already  noticed 
(p.  204.),  and  his  history  of  the  works 
in  the  Val  di  Chiana  is  justly  regarded 
as  the  record  of  a  new  era  in  hydraulic 
engineering.  The  population  of 
Arezzo  is  rather  more  than  10,000 
souls.  It  is  a  neat  and  well- paved  city, 
with  good  streets ;  and  its  houses 
wear  an  appearance  of  comfort  which 
gives  it  a  homely  and  pleasing  cha- 
racter. 

Independently  of  its  interest  as  one 
of  the  first  cities  of  ancient  Etruria, 
Arretium  was  famous  in  Roman  times 
for  its  small  vases  of  red  clay  of  a  bright 
coral  colour,  which  Pliny  says  were 
equal  to  those  of  Samos  and  Saguntum. 
The  Etruscan  city  twice  contended 
against  the  Romans,  but  without 
success,  and  in  later  times  became  the 
head-quarters  of  Flaminius  and  the 
Roman  arm'y  pT\ox  \o  >^v<i  $iS9»s!«cw» 
battle  of  TY\TUSVTO%xv^.  \tv  \>Rft  tca\^^ 
ages,    dunn^    VVi^    cwdX^v*    ^  J^^ 


K.  Vf^^rtojimntai  to  »ou».—Aramo. 


^CSect, 


W0 


Ouelphs  Hnd  Cliilwlinei.  Aretio  coa- 
tended  vignrousJy  iigiunBt  Florence, 
but  •!  BengUi  fell  under  bet  power. 
Jlnring  the  rurolutioiivrr  exaltement 
«r  1799  ibe  inbabitanU  ime  in  io- 
ImiteotiiH]  BgaiiiEt  ihe  French  autho- 
riliea,  and  cominitted  ver;  great  atro- 
^liei.  Thej  Brierwu-di  hud  the 
Tuhnesa  to  oppoi>e  the  army  of 
Bbiumer  at  Prxt'itntico;  which  Ihe 
French  general  resented  by  sacking  a 
large  portion  of  the  tovn  and  deatroy- 
ing  its  defiinces. 

In  the  PUiaa  Staffgiorc  an  the  mag- 
nifiitent  XpsiiU'e  constructed  by  Vaii    ' 
and   considered    his    masterpiece 
■rahitocture ;  they  comprise  alto  I 
*"  sure  and  custoni-house. 

The  Church  of  Sla.    Maria    di 
the  n 


recalls  in  many  elmracteristic  featurel 
the  English  cathedral  close,  ft  wt, 
commenced  in  1 336,  and  completed  Iq 
Marchione  at  the  end  of  that  cai)tur7j 
the  BlMr  and  the  TJbeitini  chap  '  ^^ 
added  about  1290.  The  inte 
this  majestic  edifice  is  cbaractetiaed  \ty\ 
K  gloomy  niBgni6cence  which  j" —  -■* 
a  sombre  and  perhaps  ovcrpo 


The 


nerad  with  biblical  sub- 
jects in  fresco ;  and  iti  brilliant 
painted  windows  were  eieeuted  i 

in  the  sisieenth  century  by  Guilli 

de  Marseilles,  a  French  Domenican. 
who  vas  afterwards  prior  of  Arei 
It   is    dilHcult  to    imagine   auylhi 
finer  than  these  paintings.      The  tall 
lancet  windows  of  the  Tribune  have 


the  beginning  of  tbi 
century,  and  is  supposed  to  occupy  Ihe 
site  of  a  temple  of  Bacchus.  It  was 
repaired  in  1216,  by  Marcliione,  a  na- 
tive architect,  with  the  addiiiou  of  the 
front  and  campanile.  In  these  re- 
pairs, however,  the  paintings  of  the  old 
church,  by  the  scbaol  of  Giotto,  uo- 
forluoalely  perished.  Tlie  front  has 
three  oiiHDColuDDsdvG,  like  the  Duomo 
of  Pisa,  cDutainJng  no  less  than  fifty- 
eight  columns,  some  of  which  are 
round,  some  multangular,  and  some 
twisted;  indeed  the  whole  church  bears 
eyidenee  of  being  composed  of  Crag- 
iDtiuU  from  other  buildings.  The 
middle  column  of  the  third  story  is  a 
Caryatid.  The  doorway  Is  round- 
beaded,  resting  on  sii  columns  with 
Corinthian  capitals,  and  various  bas- 
reliefs  and  statues.  The  campanile  has 
five  stories  of  columns  with  bntastic 
capitals-  The  whole  building  presents 
a  singular  miilurc  of  tecility  of  style 
with  irregularity  of  detail.  In  the  in- 
terior the  arches  are  either  <iemlcircular 
or  obtusely  pointed  ;  behind  the  high 
altar  in  the  fine  picture  of  St.  George, 
by  Paaari,  and  in  the  right  transept 
"   """      "  a  or  Gothic 


.   been< 


"FiveSisti 


of  Matthew, 
Vasari,  that 
considered  gl 


s"of  York  Minrtei 


rather  somethi 
heaven 
'      At   t 


■    the 
ilation  of  men."      At   the   high 
by  Giovi      ' 
di  J^Ht,  in   1ZS6,  covered  with  1 
relief  illusb'ating  the  life  of  S.  Donato, 
■    in  of  the  city,  aud  with  nuc 
1  statues,  is  one  of  the  best 
of  that  great  sculpti 


iiiddle  I 


mpsrtr 


id  Child;  on  one  side  is  3t.  DoiuLtci,. 
md  on  Ihe  other  is  St.  Gregory, 
just  is  a  portrait  of  Pope  HotiorluBi 
IV.      Tlie   series    representing   the 
lotions  of  S.  Donato,  and   the  I 
'ellef  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin, 
fery  fine.     Vasari,  in  hie  description 


r  this  n 
30,000   golden   fl 


and   was 


attar  painted  in 


mportmeniB, 


TheCathair^  in  the  Upper  Town,  | 
aa  iiapoBing  ^ecimen  ot  Italian  \ 
■"■■'     The  piflzia  in  which  it  stand? 


Freder] 

Arezto  after  his  coronation  at  Ri 
extolled    and   Infinitely    odipired 
"ed,    in     vero,"    he    adds,    "a   graii 
ragioae."  In  the  chapel  of  St.  Matthew 
ire  Ihe  remarkable  paintings  hy   the 
Florentine  Franciabifio.     Tlie  Cruci- 


fiuon. 


ia,[i«H.Bs 


Papai  States."]    r.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Arezzo.     239 


Tlie  Magdalen,  by  Pietro  deUa  JVon- 
eesea,  the  celebrated  painter  of  Borgo 
San  Sepolcro,  and  his  other  works 
cxecutMl  in  Arezzo,  are  extremely 
interesting,  as  they  are  said  to  have 
gi^en  Raphael  the  idea  of  some  of  his 
Irescoes  in  the  Vatican.  The  Cathe- 
dral also  contains  some  **  Robbia 
work/*  which  will  be  examined  with 
interest. 

The  fine  tomb  of  Guido  Tarlati,  of 
Pietramala,  the  warrior  bishop  and 
ehief  of  the  Ghibelines,  excommuni- 
cated by  the  pope,  whose  life  was  one 
of  the  most  dramatic  in  the  personal 
history  of  the  period,  is  another 
interesting  example  of  the  revival. 
It  was  executed  between  1320  and 
ISSO,  by  Agostino  and  Angeh  da  Siena, 
from  the  design,  as  Vasari  supposed, 
of  Giotto ;  it  appears  doubtful,  how- 
ever, whether  the  great  painter  gave 
the  design,  though  he  certainly  recom- 
mended Angelo  and  Agostino  as  the 
fittest  sculptors  for  the  work.  The 
history  of  the  ambitious  prelate  is 
given  in  sixteen  compartments,  in 
which  the  figures,  although  short,  are 
worked  out  with  singular  delicacy  and 
precision,  surprising  works  for  the 
time,  and  worthy  of  the  highest  place 
among  the  early  specimens  of  art 
after  its  revival.  The  subjects  are  as 
follows: — •  1.  Guido  taking  posses- 
sion of  his  bishopric  ;  2.  His  election 
as  their  general-in-chief  by  the  people 
of  Arezzo  in  1321.  3.  Plunder  of 
the  city,  which  is  represented  under 
the  form  of  an  old  man.  4.  Guido 
installed  Lord  of  Arezzo.  5.  His 
restoration  of  the  walls.  6.  His  cap- 
ture of  the  fortress  of  Lucignano.  7. 
Capture  of  Chiusi ;  8.  of  Fronzola ; 
9.  of  Focognano ;  10.  of  Rondine ; 
11.  of  Bucine ;  12.  of  Caprese;  13. 
of  Laterina  ;  14.  of  Monte  Sansavino. 
15.  The  coronation  of  the  Emperor 
Louis  of  Bavaria,  in  S.  Ambrogio,  at 
IVJilan.  I6\  The  Death  of  the 
Bibhop.  Besides  these  subjects,  the 
figures  of  priests  and  bishops  on  the 
columns  separating  the  compartments 
are  beautiful  as  worka  of  art. 

The  tomb  of  Pope  Gregory  X.,  exe- 


cuted shortly  after  his  death,  by  Marga- 
ritone,  is  also  worthy  of  attentive  study. 
This  able  and  enlightened  pope,  whose 
glorious  pontificate  comes  upon  us  like 
an  oasis  in  the  desert  of  Italian  his- 
tory during  the  thirteenth  century,  was 
seized  with  illness  at  Arezzo,  and  died 
there  suddenly  in  1276.  He  was  on 
his  return  to  Rome  to  make  the  final 
preparations  for  a  new  crusade  to  the 
Holy  Land,  in  which  he  had  enlisted 
Rudolph  of  Hapsburg,  Philippe  le 
Hardi,  Edward  of  England,  the  King 
of  Arragon,  and  indeed  all  the  princi- 
pal potentates  of  Europe.  Near  it  is  a 
modern  work,  the  martyrdom  of  S. 
Donato,  which  first  established  the  re- 
putation of  Benvenuti.  His  great  pic- 
ture, Judith  showing  the  head  of  Holo- 
femes,  one  of  the  finest  productions  of 
modern  art,  is  in  the  large  chapel  con- 
secrated, about  1 802,  to  the  miraculous 
image  of  the  Virgin.  In  the  same 
chapel  is  the  fine  painting  of  Abigail 
going  to  meet  David,  by  Sabatelli,  a 
contemporary  and  not  inferior  artist, 
and  several  very  good  specimens  of 
Andrea  delta  Rohhia,  Over  one  of  the 
side  doors  of  this  cathedral  are  sus- 
pended some  fossil  tusks,  which  the 
citizens  still  regard  as  relics  of  the  ele- 
phants of  Hannibal.  Among  other 
tombs  of  eminent  natives,  that  of  Redi, 
the  natural  philosopher,  poet,  and  phy- 
sician, whose  style  was  considered  of 
such  high  authority  by  the  Accadcmia 
della  Crusca,  when  compiling  their 
dictionary,  may  be  particulaily  men- 
tioned. He  died  in  1 698.  The  archives 
of  the  cathedral  are  worthy  of  a  visit: 
they  contain  about  2000  documents, 
among  which  is  an  almost  complete 
series  of  Imperial  diplomas,  from  Char- 
lemagne to  Frederick  II. ,  in  favour  of 
the  church  of  Arezzo.  The  marble 
statue  of  Ferdinand  de'  Medici  is  by 
John  of  Bologtia,  assisted  by  his  pupil 
Francavilla. 

The  church  of  the   Badia  di  Sta, 
Fiora  is  remarkable  for  the  architec- 
tural painting  on  its  flat  ceiling  by  the 
famous   master  of  ^«t%^<i^\.\N^  PoAit 
Pozzi.     "Vtv  l\\e  Xfe^<i«,V.w"^  \^  ^^  '^s^' 


540 


B.  27. — tloubnce  to  b 


under 


duced  bii  ova  pui 
diiguiN  or  an  olj  i 
bwd. 

The  rhuruh  of  S.  Franccica  is  oele- 
bnted  for  the  remains  of  the  remark- 
able frescoes  by  Pietra  delia  Franccica, 
•0  much  praised  by  Vosari ;  the;  re- 
present Ihe  Hislory  of  Ihe  Cross,  ond 
the  Vision  >nil  Viclary  of  Constaniine, 
the  latter  of  which  K"'e  Raphitel  the 
idea  of  bis  great  battle  in  the  Valican. 
They  vcre  much  damaged  during  the 
last  cenlut7  by  on  earthquake.  The 
■ketch  for  the  Vision  was  in  Sir 
TliamH  LavieDce's  colleetion,  and 
yraA  published  in  London  by  Mr, 
Ottley. 

The  church  of  S,  Angtlo  and  its 
celcbisted  fresco  by  Spinttfo  Aretma 
bate  been  lately  dexinyed.  This 
fresco  represented  the  Fall  of  th? 
Angels,  and  Vasari  and  Lanii  relate 
that  the  artist  liad  given  Satan  so 
monslroai  an  aspect  that  he  haunted 
bim  in  his  dreami,  and  demanded  why 
he  bad  painted  him  in  so  horrible  a 
fbriD.  Spinello  is  said  to  have  died 
ind,  shortly  after  this  adTenture. 

A  good  fresco  of  the  Almighty  sup- 
Christ  on  Ihe  Cro^s,  by  8pi- 

mill  of  tbe  Coarait  ddia  Croee ,  on 
the  great  allnr  of  which  is  an  admi- 
rable picture  of  the  Madonna  and 
TOHny  Saints,  by  Lui-a  Siynorclll.  In 
the  church  of  S.  Agoilino,  there  is  a 
good  Presentation  in  ibe  Temple, 
of  the  school  of  Ferufiino;  in  tbe 
sacristy  of  S.  Michael  Andnani  is  a 
good  specimen  of  Lorrnro  di  Bieci 
(1466).  Among  the  many  fine  pro- 
ductions of  Robbia  ware  in  Arczzo 
may  be  mentioned  the  first  altar  on 
the  left  in  S.  Maria  i«  Gradi. 

Tbe  Palazxo PubbUeo.bvih  in  1S32, 
vaa  originally  Gothic,  but  has  been 
modenSed  without  Iho  least  regard  lo 


innd, 


-Aretso.  [Sect.  T. 

drt-ds,  and  including  some  remartable 

Tlie  Frilcmtid,  built  In  the  four- 
teenth century,  has  a  majestio  Gothje 
front  and  porch  of  exeeedinit  ilol 
flanked  by  two  lancet  windows;  ii 
founded  originally  for  the  relief  of  the 
poor,  und  at  a  provision  for  widows  and 
orphans;  with  these  objects  are 


.and  a 


amall  collection  of  pail 
afuraiorial  bearin/fa  o(  the 


■5byiw 


iry  coDtain- 
ig  upwardsof  10,or"      ' 

The  Mmeo  PMilico,  under  the  direc- 
ion  of  Dr.  Fabroni,  who  boa  written 
very  interesting  work  onthav 
Lreizo,  contains  a  good  collection  of 
ases,  bronzes,  and  cinerary  uma.  The 
ases  arc  chiefly  of  the  red  ware  of  the 
ily,  hut  there  arc  also  examples  of  the 
pottery  of  other  Elrusci 

rticles  in  this  museum  are  labelled 
tbe  names  of  the  spots  on  which 
they  wen    " 

Tbe  Muw  Baeoi  is  much  diUpi- 
dated,  but  it  s  "' 
resting  broni 
large  Etruscan  vase  with  red  figures, 
liiuad  near  Arezio  in  the  middle  of 
;he  lart  century, 
Combat  of  the  Amazons,  Hercules 
flaying  a  warrior,and  a  dance  of  Bae- 
:hanalB,  is  the  best  specimen  of  tbe 
kind  in  the  collection.      T 

esting  vases  of  tbe  red 
ly  described  by  Pliny,  and 
lor  tne  manufacture  of  which  Aiezzoin 
his  day  was  bmous.  A  large  Etrusdln 
coin  in  Ibe  museuni  weighs  upwardi 

The  walls  of  Arezio  were  formerly 
supposed  to  be  Etruscan,  ■  ■■  ■ 
now  lielieved  that  they  are  : 
than  theiniddleages;  andtha 
sent  town  occupies  not  the  site  of  tbe 
Etruscan  city,  but  that  of  the  Bomia 
colony  founded  after  the  ancient  aJ 
bad  been  abandoned.  On  the  h 
called  Poggio  di  San  ComeUo,  3  miles 
S.  E.  of  the  (own.  sereral  fragmeati 
of  Etrusci  - 


18   yeaj 


rbiob  a 


any  bun- ',  andpresenl,l\ujittTOMVjJi\a\ieouUni 


.]  R.27. — FLORBHCB  TO  ROME. —  ValdiChtona.  241 


of  being  rtrongthened  with  bultreswa. 
Hioli  bu  published  >  plan  of  these 
walk.  Mod«n»ntii|uaT!i!sregBtdthrai 
M  markinf^  the  lite  of  the  powerTuI 
Etnitcan  cHy  of  Arretium. 

J.ltt1e  now  reinaini  of  the  Roman 
miu  of  Areiio  j  the  miaiTe  walls  in 
the  (owdensof  the  PaMionirt  monastery, 
whiehareahownastliemmt  important, 
■re  mpposed  to  be  those  of  an  smphi- 
Ibeatrc.  The  spot,  moreover,  is  in- 
tneatinfi  fcr  the  fine  view  which  it 
eommuuit  over  the  whole  town. 

Like  Venice  and  Botogni,  Arezio 
bai  its  iliiMriaua  houses,  associatMl 
with  the  memories  of  great  names. 
Tbtj  are  generally  marked  by  tablets 
«t  hfUi,  tiucribed  with  the  names  of 
dioae  who  were  born  within  their 
walls ;  Bitd  they  occur  so  numerously, 
that  acarcely  a  itreet  is  without  its 
tvcord.  This  custom  has  been  greatly 
ridkuled  by  recent  travellers,  and  we 
tbiok  unjuitly ;  few  persons  are  so 
much  inalnieted  by  these  memorials  as 
■ttangers,  and  theirmore  frequent  em- 
ployment in  England  would  asMnate 
tnanyan  interesting  house, not  onlyin 
the  older  streets  of  London,  but  in 
moat  of  our  provincial  towns,  with  the 
greatest  names  in  our  history. 


The    ' 


larksble 


AiHto  is  that  in  the  Sobborgo  del' 
Orlo,  close  to  the  cathedral,  in  wh'cb 
Ttttmli  first  drew  breath,  Monday, 
JolySO.  1504.  A  lonj;  inscription  put 
np  in  ISID  records  the  fact;    * 


Lsthei 


h  has  I 


tioned,  may  be  noticed  Lionnrdo  Are- 
tino,  tbe  Florentine  historian  ;  Fieiro 
Aretino,tbe  satirist;  Fra  Guittone,the 
inientorofmuslesl  notation ;  Guittone, 
the  poet,  mentioned  by  Dante  in  the 
Purgatorio;  and  Margaritone,  the 
painter,  sculptor,  and  architect  of  the 
thirteenth  century. 

The  red  sparkling  wine  of  Areno, 
formerlyenjoyedgreatcelebrity;  Redi 

thus  noticed  its  fine  qualities  : 

"  O  dl  quel  Che  .emlgUu..!., 
Fa  superbo  I'Arettno." 

An  eicellent  but  steep  road  leads 
from  Areno  to  Borgo  San  Sepolcro 
and  Cittadi  Caalello,  comtnunicating 
with  the  new  road  across  Ibe  Apen- 
nines tram  Borgo  (Route  19),  Aid 
with  the  roads  from  Cilta  di  Castello 
to  Gubbio  (Route  20),  and  from  Citll 
di  Castello  to  Perugia  (Route  21). 
Another  eicellent  but  billy  road  goea 
to  Siena  by  Monte  Sansavino  and  Pa- 
laiiuola  (38  miles)  ;  there  is  one  clean 
bedroom  at  Cameschl's  locanda  in 
Monte  Sansavina 


>   Rous 


An  interestmg  eioursion  may  be 
made  from  Areiio  through  the  Va)  di 
Cliiana  to  Chiusi  afid  Citti  della  Piere 
(Route  23).  one  of  tbe  richest  agricul- 
tural districts  in  Italy,  or  perhaps  ia 
p:urope,and  the  line  of  the  future  rail- 


n  Flor 


ind  Ron 


.liquity,  Cli 
ilialhtwell  near  which  Boccaccio  ha4  | 
pUccd  the  comic  scene  of  Tofano  and 
Monna  Ghila.  his  wifci  Tobno,  being 
Ant  out  at  night,  feigned  to  jump  in,  j 
but  merely  threw  down  a  large  stone, 

fKfthlening  his  wife,  and  immediately 
obtained  him  admission. 

In  the  Strada  San  Vito  Ii  the  house 
of  foanrt.  still  preserved  nearly  in  its 
original  state,  and  conlaining  nereral 
•xoellcnt  works  by  that  accomiilisbed 
and  induitrioua  artist. 

Among  the  eminent  na'ivei  of 
Arrtmo,    bfidt   tboao  already    men* 


As  there  are  no  poat-hor 
journey  as  far  as  Montefiascone  can 
only  be  made  by  vetturino,  stopping 
for  the  night  at  Chiusi,  Citti  della 
Pjeve,  and  Orrielo;  or  by  tbe  diligence 
which  runs  from  Arezzo  to  Montepul- 
ciano  three  time*  a  week.  The  halt- 
ing places  for  dinner  afford  little  ac- 
cnmmodation  ;  it  is,  tharerore,  advis- 
sblc  to  make  proiision  beforehand,  in 
order  to  avoid  being  compelled  to 
eat  fresbly-killcd  poultry. 

After  leaving  Areiio  the  road  to 
Perugia  is  fblloired  for  2\Tiv\\evwVii\ 
the  ToadXo  C\«\i«\«B,^i:\«»'JSWi*i« 
rig\il-,  \1  t,\ien  xnocee^«  Wwom^  <»« 


H.  97-— woKKWc*  TwflortBr-^Kd^rffCWdfwft-  "^Stct-I 


iro  and  Mtini")inano.  tn  Fnjsno,  h 
II  w«n  17  mil™  from  Awiio.  The 
KMil  H  perfMtIv  Invel  to  the  fool  of  tbe 
hill  onirbich  FojaM  iMiuh.  For  the 
c«p  ascent  to  Fojuno  oxen  may  Ivhad 
■rljpaul.  The /■«  are  very  indLffb- 
nnt  i  the  beat  is  the  fini  oii  the  leit 
b*nd  on  entering  the  tovn.  Fojano  in 
beauiirVill;  situftted  on  a  hiU,  but 
offen  nothing  reniRrkalile.  The  «■- 
rtfidniliiTBry  neat,  and  ha*  an  altar  of 
terra-Gotta  which  in  wortli  weing. 

On  ley»ing  Fojano,  two  ronds  pre- 
sent themselTes;  that  to  the  rijiht  leads 
l«  Montrpuloiann,  that  to  the  led 
direct  to  Chiuw.      Numeroire  braneh 

of  them  hading  to  Corlona  on  the 
Pdruftia  road,  and  others  t<i  the  prin- 
cipal vilUftfS  and  towns  of  the  dlsCriet. 
Before  reaching  Chiwi.  the  lake  called 
t|ie  Cfaiero  di  Montepul 


iMrictsofTiiscunr.rich  iiicorOi' 
and  hemp,  peopled  by  a  healthj  pea- 
lantry.and  dudded  with  numeruiisiil- 
Ugei.    These  opcratinnBib^un  I 
the  directiun  of  the  celebrated  math*- 
mtLlicians  of  the  school  of  Galili 
Torricelll    and    Viviani— have 


initead  of  bearing  the   r 


t  all  tl 


!S  of  11 


I 


leads  to  Cbiuii,  described  in  Rnuie  53. 
The  Iraveller  miiy  proceed  tbtnce  to 
Rome  through  Citia  dtUa  Plow,  Or- 
nE<a.&e.,  which  may  be  visited  in  thia 
Bxeurslan.    (See  Route  S».) 

Tbe  valley  of  ll.c  Chiana  (Clanis). 
extending  from  the  lake  of  Chiu<i  to 
file  Cbiusa  de~  Munaci,  near  which 
it  enters  the  Arno.  remained  a  pesti- 
hntial  marsh  until  towards  the  middle 
of  the  last  century,  when  a.  mode  uf 
drainage  was  adopteil  peculiar  to 
Italian  hydraulic  engineerinjr,  —  thnl 
of  Culmates,  which  is  effL-cled  by 
carrying   the   torrents   charged    with 

allowing  Ihera  to  depQi.it  the  mud  thus 
brought  down,  by  which  thesuhjaeent 
soil  is  raised,  and  a  fall  for  all  stagnant 
waters  procured.  By  this  means  the 
niley  of  the  Chiana.  by  which  Dinte 
illastratea  the  pestWeat  fevera  of  the 
teath  6otgia  of  the  Jnlerno  — 

^Oual doior  font,  tc dexii  SpeAnH 

SctttmibTe  f 


completed    under 

hat  of    the     lata 

palrioiio  prime  rail 

ster  of  Tu-cany. 

Couut  Foisombronl 

ng   wil 


I    Gallic 


lich,  I 


with  himself. 

The  agriculturist  will  do  well 
visit  some  of  thediOerent  larm-bousea 
erected  by  the  grand-duke  (Fi 
OD  a  very  large  and  Ecientilii 
especially  those  of  Crete,  Fojano  (the 
Ad  tiiEcDs  of  the  Iter  Anton.},  Dol- 
ciano.  &c.;  in  which  the  modeoTpre- 
serving  grain  in  utiderfcrounrl  cbaiii< 

To  the  scientific  traveller  the  vallvj 
of  the  Chiana  presents  a  phcnomenoi 
in  physical  geography  nearly  unparal- 
leled— the  change  in  an  opposite 
direction  which  the  wati 
ClB4iis  have  taken  with 
periods.  In  the  early  c 
our  era  the  whole  of  th> 
the   Clauis,  with  prubahly  a  |iorti(ta 


rsoflh 


Upper 


reduced  (u 


into  the  T.       . 
(ion  of  the  former  did  so  in  the  middla 
ages;  but  in  consequence  of  the  eleva- 
tion  of  the  valley  by  natural 
and  by  the  hydraulic  operaiions  abova 

described,  the  whole  of  tl         * 

the  Chiana  now  empty  the 

the  Amo.      We  learn   from   Taeitiu 

that  tliis  change  in  the  course  of  tbt 

Clanis  was  contemplated  by  Tibenua* 

but  the  prii; 

sequence   of   tbe   opp.isition    of    t^H 

Flurcnlioe*.  who  represented  t'lat  Ibeif 

lands  would  heflooded  and  destroyed  U 

the  course  of  the  river  were  su  altered. 

For  a  more  ilelaileil  descriptioa 
the  means  adiipted  In  drain  the  valley, 
the  readur  is  referred  to   Count  Fo»- 
somYwi'oV>,ce\«hraled  »ork, "  Mi^nnork 


rerlU«i\  at,  Monle'pvAEv 


Pf^paH  8uue9.'\  R.  27- — Florence  to  rome. — Cortona.        24.3 


The  Via  Cassia  ran  along  the  west 
Ncle  of  the  Val  di  Chiana;  Fojano 
was  one  of  its  principal  stations. 

As  jconnected  with  the  hydraulic 
works  of  the  Val  di  Chiana.  we  would 
advise  the  traveller  to  visit  the  locks, 
cur  Chiuaa  de'  Monaci,  not  &r  firom 
Aresio,  where  the  Chiana  enters  the 
vaiiej  of  the  Amo;  and  the  locks  of 
Valiano,  near  Chiusi,  by  which  the 
emptying  of  the  lakes  of  Chiusi  is 
regulated. 


Leaving  Areszo  for  Rome,  th^  road 
proceedsalong  the  fertile  Val  di  Chiana, 
skirting  the  base  of  the  hills  which  se 
paiate  it  from  the  valley  o^  the  Tiber. 

A  short  distance  firom  the  walls  of 
Aressois  V  Ohnn,  a  village  so  called 
from  a  gigantic  elm,  to  which  tradition 
had  given  an  age  as  ancient  as  the  time 
of  Hannibal.  It  was  ro  large  that  ten 
men  could  hardly  embrace  it,  and  when 
destroyed  by  the  French  its  boughs  are 
Mid  to  have  filled  a  hundred  carts. 

1  Rigutino,  a  post-station. 

Between  this  and  Camuscia  the 
road  passes  through  Ckutigfione  Finren^ 

Hno,   which   the   vetturini    generally      — , -.— 

make  one  of  the  resting-places  between 'of  double  chambers,  roofed  on  the 
Rome  and  Florence.  The  Leone '  principle  of  approaching  stones,  and 
Bianco  is  an  excellent  village  inn,  with  built,  not  with  the  usual  massive 
a  civil  landlord.  Castiglione  is  not  blocks  of  Etruscan  masonry,  but  with 
without  iU  pictures.  The  church  of,  ^"1^11  roughly-dressed  stones,  from  the 
Sta,  Maria  dtlla  Pieve,  in  the  upper 
town,  built  in  the  fourteenth  century, 
contains  a  Madonna  and  S.  Giuliano, 
and    a   St.    Michael,  by  Bartofommeo 


1  Camuscia ;  a  post-station  and  inii 
at  the  junction  of  the  high  post^rcad, 
with  some  eountr>'-roads  leadinsf  to 
rich  villages  and  towns  in  different 
parts  of  the  valley  ;  one  of  these  leads 
to  Fojano  (9  miles),  Lucignano,  Asi- 
nalunga,  &c. ;  another  to  Chiusi  (22 
miles),  and  Montepulciano ;  while  a 
third  conducts  us  (1  mile)  up  the 
mountain  to  Coriona,  one  of  the  most 
interesting  Etruscan  cities  in  this  part 
of  Tuscany,  which  travellers  should  on 
no  account  pass  by  without  devoting 
at  least  a  day  to  its  examination. 

Excursion  to  Cortona. 

As  there  is  no  accommodation  at 
Cortona,  Camuscia  had  better  be  made 
the  head  quarters  for  this  excursion. 
Close  to  Camuscia,  on  the  road  to 
Montepulciano,  is  the  remarkable 
tomb  discovered  in  1842  by  Signor 
Sergardi  of  Siena,  from  whom  ic  de- 
rives the  name  of  the  **  Grotto  Ser- 
gardi.*' Many  travellers  may  prefer 
visiting  this  curious  monument  before 
ascending  to  Cortona.  It  is  a  huge 
tumulus,  called  **  II  Melone,**  within 
which  was  found  two  parallel  tombs 


schistose  formation  of  the  spot,  put 
together  without  cement,  so  as  to  re- 
st^nfible  brick- work.  The  tombs  had 
been  rifled  in  a^es  past ;  but  a  smaller 


Mia  Gatia,  whose  works  are  so  highly  '  chamber  was  discovered  above  them. 


praised  by  Vasari.  In  S.  Francesco  is 
a  painting  by  Vatari^  rtqsresenting  the 
Virgin,  St.  Anne,  St.  Francis,  and  St. 


which    contained    several    iron    and 
bronze  articles,  and  some  vases  con- 

.  -„— ,  _ >, „, ^,    taining  human  ashes.     The  chambers 

Silvester.     The  scenery  from  the  ter-  ;  are  almost  inaccessible  from  the  damp ; 
race,  below  the  old  town,  is  so  magni-    hut  all  the  articles  discovered  in  the 
ficent,  that  the  traveller  should  on  no  '  tumulus   may  be  seen  in  the  neigh- 
aeeount  fail  to  visit  the  old  or  upper  :  bouring  villa  of  Sijoior  Sergardi. 
town  for  the  purpose  of  enjoying  it.   It        Cortona,  one  of  the  most  ancient 
commands    the    broad    valley    of  the '  ^^  the  twelve  cities  of  the  Etruscan 
Chiana,  forty  miles  in  length,  scattered  I  lea.:uc,    dating    its  oriein    from    the 
with  picturesque  villages,  while  in  t'.ie    Pelasgi,  if  not  from  a  still  earlier  race, 
foreground  it  pifscnts  oneof  tli«i  rich-  !  occupies   a  commanding    position  on. 
est   districts  of  Italv,  aboundiwg   in  i  the  very  »umTO\l  o^  «k  vsvca\\\\a\\v»      K& 
vineyards  and  in  every  kind  of  agri-  \  the  CorytXms  o^  >J \\^\\.  \\. nv^  «*•  ^^^^^ 
cultural  produce.^  '  be  recogi\v%e<V  X^'^  XW  c\a&s\e,«^  \»vv:«va 


pu  Hie  scene  of  Ilic  ir 

I  tiT  Dani»nu«.  and  o( 

flight  of  the  latter  inu 

"HlnetllinnConthl  Tji 


noDTE  eV. — FionKiccE  TO  HOME. — Cortona.     [Sect.  t. 


r^Sl-c^Ll 


This  mjthological  antiquity  carnes 
ti*  Uck  to  wi  «ge  loiiK  ■nlerior  to 
Ttoj;  and  ^et,  while  lliciite  nnil  even 
euitenoe  of  the  latter  aity  is  called  in 
queatiuti,  Corlons  relaiiia  her  nncient 
valb  in  many  places  unchanged.  Its 
■ntiqaity,    indeed,    indepcndcnlly    of 

proved  by  nuthentic  and  Littarical  eri- 
iteoae  to  be  equalled  by  fev  other 
towns  in  Italy.  It  was  Vomided,  ac- 
oordingto  Dionjrsiiis  of  Halicarnassus, 
by  the  Umbri,  from  wliom  it  was 
eaplured  by  the  Pelasgi,  who  adianced 
Il>t0  central  Italy  frum  their  first  set- 
llemeiit  Ht  the  mmith  of  the  Po.  and 
there  seiied  and  fortified  Cortona  and 
other  colonies. 

The  fH'esent  town  lies  within  its 
aueient  circuit ;  the  modern  ^tei 
seem  to  occupy  the  ancient  posi  ' 
and  the  gieantie  wall,  formed  of 
:tauBular  block: 


laid 


rlher    i 


of  ttomaa 

Temple  of 
Baeclius.  Outside  the  town,  about 
halfa  TOlle  from  the  Poila  S.  Ajcoatino, 
is  an  Etruscan  tomh  about  seven  (bet 
square,  called  the  "  Grotlo  of  Pylha- 
goras,"  a  sir](;ular  tiile,  considering 
that  the  father  of  FythaRoras  woa 
reputed  to  be  one  of  (he  Tyrrheniui 
or  Pelksgic  settlers  who  retired  to  the 
islands  of  A^ia  Minor  after  their  ex- 
pulsion from  Attica.  It  was  entered 
by  folding  doors  of  stone,  the  sockets 
for  which  are  still  visible  though  the 
dooia   have   disappeared.       The  cOD:- 

bluekt  of  sandstone  which  couipou  its 
sides,  are  equally  remarkable.  The 
walls  are  of  enormous  rectangular 
blocks,  finished  and  put  together  with 
wonderful  precision,  and  the  roof  is 
formed  of  five  ttupeodouB  wedge-like 
stones,  of  very  great  length,  resting  ou 
semicircular  walla,  and  EUgEesting  the 
impression  that  the  architect  must  have 
understood  the  principle  of  the  arch. 
In   the  Msitum   of  the  Academy 


among  whiol 


nail  eullecl 


without  cement,  is  preserved  for  nearly 

■two-tliirds  of  its  extent,  whiu-h  was  wholemuseiimisthceelebraled  firmu 

-course  Is  interrupted  by  Roman  works  be  imagined  from  the  description  of 
or  modern  repnirs,  but  its  magniliceDt  Micali,  who  says  that  no  other  Ktiua> 
mainnry  is  generally  wall  preserti'd  can  work  in  bionie,  eioept  the  larger 
beneath  the  modern  fortiti cations,  and  statues,  can  rival  It  in  mastery  of  art. 
still  appears  fitted  to  survive  another  It  was  discovered  in  a  ditch  at  La 
three  thousand  years.  Near  the  Fratta  in  1 840,  and  was  purchased  by 
fbrlrees,  beyond  the  modern  wall,  is  a   SigDor  Tommasi,  of  this  eiiy,  for  TOO 

-alupendou)  fragment  ISO  feet  in|dollars.  It  is  a  circular  bowl  nearly 
length,  cotnposed  of  blocks  varying  two  feet  in  diameter,  having  sixteen 
ftom  seven  to  fourteen  feet  in  length,  lamps  around  the  rim  alternating  with 
■nd  fioin  three  to  five  feet  in  height ;  heads  of  IJaoelius  and  a  Gorgon's  looe 
seven  courses  remain  in  one  part,  |  of  inexpressible  fierceness  at  tbe 
where  thewall  LI  twcnly-lire  feet  high.  ^  bottom  ;  the  weight  of  it  is  salt 
In  addition  to  the  walls  there  are :  1 70  Tuscan  pounds.  There  a 
aeveral  other  objecLi  of  Etruscan  an-  vases  of  any  interest  in  the  Mi 
tiquily  to  engage  attention.  Within  !  hut  the  town  is  worthy  of  a  rieh 
Ibi!  town  a  the  vault  under  tbe  Palazio   lection,  and  indeed  if  all  that  ha 

Cecchetti.    lined   with   regular    unce- '  sold  of  the  antiques  found  hei 
meiittd  masonry,  about  thirteen  feet'.nBver  ttsn  v=™"**^ 


fgiiare  anil  nine  high,  and   apparently  \  tonsil,  tlie  Wvi5«oin  <«  C-QtWi 
septitchml.    On  (lie  ascent  to  Sta.  Maf-\  be  otie  oS  \.Vo  ftns»\,  \vl  \\»\ 


C.QtWH«  'wmii 


.\,. 


PcqMl  Seates.2    R»  27.— Florence  to  rome. — Cortona.       245 


are  two  other  museums,  the  Museo 
Corazzi)  whose  chief  treasures  have 
found  their  way  to  Leyden,  and  the 
If  usee  Venuti,  founded  by  the  able 
antiquary  Ridolfino  VenutL 

The  Aceademia  Etrusca  was  founded, 
in  1 7  86,  by  the  same  eminent  antiquary, 
Ridolfino  Venuti;  it  is  at  present 
lodged  in  the  Palazzo  Pretorio,  where 
are  also  the  library  and  museum.  The 
Academy  has  published  ten  volumes  of 
memoirs;  its  president  is  honoured 
with  the  title  of  **  Lucumo,"  the  an« 
eient  name  of  the  kings  of  Etrur  ia.  The 
Library,  called  the  Biblioteca  Pon< 
bucci,  has  a  beautifully  written  MS. 
of  Dante, and  a  MS.  called  the  "  Notti 
Coritane,**  in  twelve  volumes  folio, 
a  remarkable  collection  of  conversations 
on  archaeological  subjects,  but  unfor- 
tunately imperfect. 

The  Cathedral,  said  to  be  as  old  as 
the  tenth  century,  was  restored  by  Ga- 
lilei, the  Florentine  architect  of  the 
last  century.     It  has  several  fine  paint- 
ings, among  which  are  the  Deposition 
from  the  Cross,  by  Luca  SignorelU  who 
was  a  native  of  Cortona,  and  his  pupils ; 
his  manner  may  here  be  traced  from 
its  early  style  in  the  Deposition  from 
tile  Cross,  to  his  most  advanced,  in  his 
Last  Supper,  which  is  one  of  his  most 
original  and  expressive  works,  and  is 
diaracterised  by  Lanzi  as  being  marked 
by  a  beauty,  a   grace,  a   colouring, 
approaching  to  a  modern  painting.   It 
represents  the  Saviour  standing  in  the 
midst  of  his  disciples,  distributing  the 
bread  to  them  as  they  kneel  on  either 
nde.      ITie  Annunciation  is  by  Pietro 
da   Cortona,  another    native  painter. 
The  most  remarkable  monument  pre- 
served here  is  the  great  Sarcophagus, 
which  the  local  antiquaries,  eager  to 
identify  everything  with    Hannibal's 
invasion,  have  honoured  by  calling  it 
the  tomb  of  the   consul    Flaminius. 
Its  fine  bas-relief,   representing  the 
combat  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapithse, 
is  clearly  referrible  to  a  later  period 
of  llonoan  art,  so  that  there  can  be  no 
authority  for  the  tradition  which  re- 
gards the  aMreophBguaas  the  sepulchre 
of  the  tuUbttuaate  consul.     Another 


tomb  is  that  of  Giambattista  Tommasi, 
named  by  Pius  VII.  Grand- Master  of 
Malta  in  1803,  on  the  disgrace  of 
Hompesch ;  an  empty  title  which  he 
retained  only  two  years,  and  died  in 
1805,  within  a  few  months  of  his  feeble 
predecessor. 

The  Church  of  GetH  also  contains 
some  remarkable  pictures.  A  Con- 
ception and  a  Nativity  are  by  Luca 
Signordli.  A  very  expressive  Annun- 
ciation is  by  Beato  Angdico  da  Fiesoie, 
as  are  also  two  gradini  admirably  pre- 
served, on  which  are  depicted  the  lives 
of  the  Madonna  and  of  S.  Domenico, 
the  former  surpassed  by  no  other  work 
of  this  exquisite  master.  The  unfin  ished 
Madonna  throned,  with  St  Ubaldo  and 
St.  Roch,  is  by  Jacone,  the  Florentine 
painter. 

The  Church  and  Convent  of  Stnt  t 
Margherita  occupy  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  on  which  Cortona  is  placed ; 
they  are  surrounded  by  plantations  of 
cypresses,  and  the  view  they  command 
is  one  of  the  finest  panoramas  which 
can  be  imagined.    Its  majestic  Got'iic 
architecture  is  by  Niccold  and  Giocanni 
di  Pisa,  whose  names  are  seen  inscribed 
on  the  tower.    The  Tomb  of  Sta.  Mar- 
gherita is  a  remarkable  work  of  the 
thirteenth  century ;  its  silver  front  was 
presented,  together  with  the  crown  of 
gold,  by  Pietro  da  Cortona,when  he  was 
raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  noble  by 
his  native  city;  the  front  is  said  to 
have  been  designed  by  him.     Among 
the  paintings  are  the  Dead  Christ,  by 
Luca  Signorelli,  •«  opera,**  says  Vasan, 
**  delle  sue  rarissime ;  **  the  St  Cathe- 
rine, by  Baroecio;  the  Conception,  with 
St  Margaret,  St  Francis,  St.  Domenlc, 
and  St  Louis,  by  the  elder  Vanni;  the 
Virgin,  with  St.  John  the  Baptist  St 
Elizabeth  of  Hungary,  and  St  Bias?, 
by  Jacopo  da  EmpoU;  and  an  old  but 
expressive  fresco  representing  St  Mar- 
garet finding  the  dead  body  of  her  lover. 
The  Gothic  church  of  S,  Frcuicesco, 
dating  from  the  twelfth  century,  has 
one  of  the  finest  works  of  Ci^fii^  ^.^^ 
Miracle  of  Si.  KiiXjotvY^  ^\\3Nft  ^V.e«v 
converted  a  VvetelVQ.  . 

The  cViUTcYk  o«  S.  DomcnVco,  ^^'w'^' 


a.  27.:— rtossseE  TO  home. — TSnwijncne.      [Sect, 
n  tlie  firslliBlfoFllictliirU-enth  cei 
;   WBrlu  by   wliicU    Btata  Angili 


lee  of  c-rij-  Iifllian  an. 

ts  llie  Virgin  Burruunded  by  w 


erist/appiarslo  be  b]i  one  of  liii  pupils. 
In  the  rholr  ia  one  of  tbe  finest 
gparimens  known  of  the  Dacota,  ur 
Gulhic  altar  painted  in  comportnient.St 
with  ttac  dale  1440,  and  an  iiiKriplion 
staling  that  it  waa  piesented  by  Cosmo 
anii  Lotenio  de'  Medici  to  the  muulcs 


would  play 

IVruRia.  wh 
vlih  AlaH'lii 
painter,  niir 
Asstm 


unditioi 


fur  ibeir  KuuU.  I'hE  fecbl. 
is  by  Piatro  Panicalc,  o 
o  muat  not  be  conf-iundet 
lO  Psnicaie,  the  Floteaiirii 
vilh  Pietro  Perugino.  'nil 
'ith   St.  Jatinto   ia   by 


a  CioBH 

Th>  church  of  S.  Agotlixa 
Oiie  of  the  best  works  of  /Irtrt 
bma,  the  Virgin,  with  St.  J 
Bapti'.t,  St.  James,  St.  StEpt!  . 
Si.  Francit ;  and  a  puoting  by  Jdaipii 
Ja  Empoli,  representing  tlie  Virgin,  SL 
John  the  Baptist,  and  8.  Anionic 
Abate. 

A  road  from  Corlona,  tlirougb  Con- 
lesse  and  S.  Maico,  leads  into  the  liigli 
road  a  fciv  miles  north  of  Uss^ja.  with- 
out the  necessity  of  returning  to  Ca- 


Leasiiig  Camuseia  for  Eorao,  the 
road  soon  reaches  the  Tuscan  inintiei 
Tillage  of  Ouaja,  the  station  of  the 
custom -house,  nheie  io  returning  from 
Rome  baggiige  and  paBS|H>i(s  are  exa- 
mined.     Uelween  Ihia  and  the  Papal 

chain  of  the  Spelunca,  comp  >s^d  of 
pittra   HTcnu   and  calcareoui    marls. 

travi-ilet  basa  giwd  Tlew  of  the  wholt 
of  the  Lake  of  Thrasimene.  the  Val  dl 
Chiaiis.  alHl  the  hills  buunding  it. 

The    Papal    frontier   is   at     Monte 

Gttahindra,  where  a  iafcta  pam/re  is 

userul.  as  it  preveaUa  search,  but  a  fee 

JfE/Itra//..  sflve^  nil  Irottble.       A  alloil  , 

duiance    Imyoiid    the    papal     frontier,' 

"tor  passing  the  Ponte  di  Sangt  " 


the  road  descen 
of  Case  del  Fiat 

li  Case  del  Piann.  (/"■■.  La  Posta.) 
A  lliird  horse  i«  necessary  IVon  '  ' 
place  to  Cainusoia,  and  IWD  additional 
f^r  carriages  with  four  or  sii  horses. 
On  leaiing  Camuscia,  Ihe  L>i;b  o 
THaAsiHKHE  wUl  nBtuIslly  r.call  to  th 
classical  traveller  tbe  memorable  battle 
ifuuglit  upon  its  banks,  upon  the  very 
I  spot,  indeed,  which  he  must  pass 
'  between  that  station  and  Passlgnuno, 
I  The  deiails  of  that  disastrous  action, 
"  one  of  the  few  defeats,"  says  Livy, 
'■of  the  Roroan  people," are  fully  given 
by  that  hiatuiian  and  by  Folybius; 
but  the  local  features  of  the  country, 
as  they  miy  still  be  traced,  are  nowhere 
so  accurately  described  as  in  the  fol- 
lowing note  of  Sir  John  Hobhouw  to 
the  fourth cantn of  "Chil<lellBroldt-'~ 
"  Tbesiteof  thebsttleof  Tbrasitncne 

from  the  village  under  Cortona  to  Case 
del  Pianos  the  next  stage  on  the  n-a;  to 
Home,  has  for  the  Gist  two  or  three 
ntiligs  BiDuad  bim,  but  more  particu- 
larly la  tlie  right,  that  flat  laud  wbioh 
Hannibal  laid  waste  in  order  to  induce 
the  Consul  Flamiiiius  to  move  from 
AruizD.  On.his  lefi,  and  in  front  o£ 
him,  is  a  ridge  of  hilU  bending  dowD 
towards  the  lake  of  lliiasiincno,  oallsd 

now  named  the  Cuaisndro.  Thew.hillB 
he  approaches  at  035!ijB,a  village  whioh 

been  no  bonet 

and  the  battle  was  fought 

on  the  other  side  of  the  hilL      From 

aJB,  the  road  begins  to  rise  a  litt]«, 

dues  nut  pass  into  the  root*  of  tha 

mtains  until  the  ainty-ninth  iiiil»- 

le  from  Florence.  The  ascent thenca 

ot  steep,  but  continues  for  twenty 

utes.    'Ilie  lake  is  soon  seen  below 

:he  right,  with  Borghetto,  a  round 

ec,  close  upon  the  water ;  and  the 

undulating  hills  partially  covered  with 

ood,  ahiingst  which  the  road  winils. 


gated  froi 


1  tu  llxis  1 


■iuMl  V\W  III 

:i,S^\l  aioivftai.  ftiesK  ■«  oiiiHi. 


p€g[Kd  SkUe8,'\    r.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Thrasimene,   247 


the  jaws  of,  or  rather  above,  the  pass, 
which  was  between  the  hike  and  the 
present  road,  and  most  probably  close 
to  Bor<{hetto,  just  under  the  lowest  of 
the  *  tumuli.'  On  a  summit  to  the  left, 
above  the  road,  is  an  old  circular  ruin, 
which  the  peasants  call  *  the  tower  of 
Hannibal  the  Carthaginian.'  Arrived 
at  the  highest  point  of  the  road,  the 
traveller  has  a  partial  view  of  the  fatal 
plain,  which  opens  fully  upon  him  as 
be  descends  the  Gualandro.  He  soon 
finds  himself  in  a  vale  enclosed  to  the 
left,  and  in  front,  and  behind  him  by 
the  Gualandro  hills,  bending  round  in 
a  segment  larger  than  a  semicircle, 
and  running  down  at  each  end  to  the 
lake,  which  obliques  to  the  right  and 
forms  the  chord  of  this  mountain  arc. 
The  position  cannot  be  guessed  at  from 
the  plains  of  Cortona,  nor  appears  to 
be  so  completely  enclosed  unless  to  one 
who  is  fairly  within  the  hills.  It  then, 
indeed,  appears  <a  place  made  as  it 
were  on  puipose  for  a  snare,*  locus  tn- 
tidiit  nattu,  Borghetto  is  then  found 
to  stand  in  a  narrow  marshy  path  close 
to  the  hill  and  to  the  lake,  whilst  there 
is  no  other  outlet  at  the  opposite  turn 
of  the  mountains  than  through  the  little 
town  of  Passignano,  which  is  pushed 
into  the  water  by  tho  loot  of  a  high 
rocky  acclivity.  There  is  a  woody 
eminence  branching  down  from -the 
mountains  into  the  upper  end  oi  the 
plain  nearer  to  the  side  of  Passignano, 
and  on  this  stands  a  white  village  called 
Torre.  Poly bius  seems  to  all  ude  to  this 
eminence  as  the  one  on  which  Hannibal 
encamped,  and  drew  out  his  heavy- 
armed  Africans  and  Spaniards  in  a  con- 
spicuous position.  From  this  spot  he 
despatched  his  Balearic  and  light -armed 
troops  round  through  the  Gualandro 
heights  to  the  right,  so  as  to  arrive  un- 
seen and  form  an  ambush  among  the 
broken  acclivities  which  the  road  now 
passes,  and  to  be  ready  to  act  upon  the 
left  flank  and  above  the  enemy,  whilst 
tbe  horse  shut  up  ihe  pass  behind. 
Flaminius  came  to  the  lake  near  Bor- 
ghetto at  sunset;  and,  without  sending 
any  spies  before  him,  marched  through 
tkepmm  tbe  next  morning  before  the 


day  had  quite  broken,  so  that  he  per- 
ceived nothing  of  fhc  horse  and  light 
troops  above  and  about  him,  and  saw 
only  the  heavy-armed  Carthaginians  in 
front  on  the  hill  of  Torre,  The  consul 
began  to  draw  out  his  array  in  the  fiat, 
and  in  the  mean  time  the  horse  in  am- 
bush occupied  the  pass  behind  him,  at 
Borghetto.  llius  the  Elom-ins  were 
completely  enclosed,  having  the  lake  on 
the  right,  the  main  army  on  the  hill  of 
Torre  in  front,  the  Gualandro  hills  Hlbd 
with  the  light-armed  on  their  left  flank, 
and  being  prevented  from  receding  by 
the  cavalry,  who,  the  farther  they  ad- 
vanced, stopped  up  all  the  outlets  in  the 
rear.  A  fog  rising  from  the  lake  now 
spread  itself  overthe  army  of  theconsul, 
but  the  high  lands  were  in  the  sunshine, 
and  all  the  different  corps  in  ambush 
looked  towards  the  hill  of  Torre  for  the 
order  of  attack.  Hannibal  gave  the 
signal,  and  moved  down  from  his  post 
on  the  height.  At  the  same  moment  all 
his  troops  on  the  eminences  behind  and 
in  the  flank  of  Flaminius  rushed  for- 
wards as  it  were  with  one  accord  into 
the  plain. 

<*  There  are  two  little  rivulets  which 
run  from  the  Gualandro  into  the  lake. 
The  traveller  crosses  the  first  of  these 
at  about  a  mile  after  he  comes  into  the 
plain,  and  this  divides  the  Tuscan  from 
the  Papal  territories.  The  sennnd, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  further  on, 
is  called  *  the  bloody  rivulet ; '  and  the 
peasants  point  out  an  open  spjt  to  the 
left  between  the  *  Sanguinetto'  and  the 
hills,  which,  they  say,  was  the  prin- 
cipal scene  of  slaughter.  Tne  other 
part  of  the  plain  is  covered  with  the 
thick-set  olive-trees  in  corn-grounds, 
and  is  nowhere  quite  level  except  near 
the  edge  of  the  lake.  It  is,  indeed, 
most  probable  that  the  battle  was 
fought  near  this  end  of  the  valley,  for 
the  six  thousand  Romans,  who,  at  the 
l)eginning  of  the  action,  broke  through 
the  enemy,  escaped  to  the  summit  of 
an  eminence  which  must  have  been 
in  this  quarter,  otherwise  they  would 
have  had  to  traverse  Xh^  'wWW  -^ivw, 
and  to  pVerce  \]^to\\^  X>cv^  \cv5ivxw  w,xk^ 
of  HanmbaX. 


t.  fiTr— Pt-ORXiKX  TO  aOBU. — TkratUnum.     ^Seot'hl 


■■  TIm!   Itdiniius  fought  dmperatcly 

r  three  liQUR  (unheeding  nn  earlh- 

U>Ii«  wliieli  nocurreil  st  the  lime  ■od 

f  oitici.miJ  tvrnmaun- 

u  parts  uf  Italy);  l>u[ 

h  or  FlaminiuK  irns  Iht  siRiial 

>  psneral  ditpenion.      The   Car- 

(hiKipiaT)  harse  then   buril  in  ujion 

the  (ligitiies ;  anil  the  lukr.',  the  iniirsli 

■bout  Borghetlo,  but  cliieHj  the  plain 

of  tfae  Sanguinelto  and  the  passes  of 

the    Ouidandra,    vere    streved    with 

dead.    Nearmineold  walUoiiableak 

ridge  la  llie  left,  aliovc  tlie  rivulet, 

HMO;    human   bonea    have    beea    re- 

^^WU«dly  found,  and  tliis  hai  cunfirmed 

^^M*  preten«otu  and  the  lume  of  the 

^^nttMin  of  Wood.'"     Iti  tbcadjulti- 

^^|ht  ange  at  hills  abovu    Passlgnano 

^^K   Ouija,  ire  two  other  localities 

^"filled  Fietra  MaK  and  the  VallaU 

RomaoB,  tlie  names  of  which  are  also 

mipiKHed  to  refer  Id  that  fatal  cun- 

flicl. 

The  Lake  of  Thrasimene,  which 
hrs  tcueely  diatiged  its  ancient  naitie 
in  the  modem  one  of  Laga  TVoiimtno, 
U  a  beautiful  shL-et  of  water  about 
30  English  miles  in  circumferenw,  and 
in  Mrne  parts  n.s  much  as  S  Englist 
miles fr.Tuss.  llisturroundcdbygentli 

and  cultivaled  -with  ollve-plnntations, 
■Jown  to  its  very  margin.  'i'he  bilh 
■iround  it  graduully  increase  in  eleva- 
tion as  they  recede  from  the  lake,  and 
ri'e  into  mountains  in  (lie  distance. 
It  baa  three  islands,  the  Isole  Alag- 
giore  and  Mmore,  opposite  Passig- 
iiano.  and  the  Isola  Polvese  in  its 
aouthem  angle.  On  the  Iinfa  Mag- 
g'len  a  a  oonvenl,  from  which  the 
liuw  OTer  the  lake  and  its  shores  is 
one  of  those  gloriuus  prospects  so 
abundantly  scattered  across  the  path 
of  tbe  traveller  in  lul}-,  and  little 
known  because  be  will  not  find  time 
or  step  out  of  his  way  to  enjoy  them. 
The  lake  abounds  In  fish,  particularly 
in  eels,  carp,  tench,  and  pike  1  a  small 
fish  called  the  lasca,  a  fcesh-waler 
/lerriag  ( C/upea),  and  the  rtgiita  re- 
saablingcarp.  Jn  recent  years  the  bed 
of  the  lake  ban  been  grndually  ele- 
vated  bjrthe  ra«  gua.ility  of  sllavUl 


s  ford 


iril 


suggestions  for  drnmiiig  it 

much  difficulty.  Tlie  Iske  at  present 
lets  fat  4000  scudi,  whilst  by  drying, 
it  would  produce  aonunllv.  oeeording 
to  the  calculation  of  Siguor  Balducci, 
laS.SHS  aeudi,  and  would  employ  at 
least  1300  persmis.  The  level  of  the 
lake  haf  iocrea*ed  within  historical 
periods.  Some  buildings,  now  1 3  feet 
below  its  present  level,  were  dii- 
covered  recently  at  Passlgnano,  which 
appeared  to  have  belonged  to  a  pig- 
house,  as  they  contained  straw,  grass, 
seeds,  maiie,  ,&c.  S.  Balducci  Bttrl' 
butes  this  to  tfae  elevation  of  tbe 
bed  of  the  lake,  wfaieh,  by  bis  own 
obsemtious,  was  raised  nine  inches 
by  tbe  alluvial  matter  carried  into  it 
by  the  torrents  from  1SI9  to  IS41, 
although  the  period  was  not  very 
rainy ;  nhilsl  other  obsertatiotu, 
founded  on  authentio  documents, 
show  Ibis  level  to  bave  risen  4S  feet 
in  a  century.  The  older  maps  of  the 
"      '  ■    ilso  prore  that  the  lake  accu~ 


(  less  c 


arison    of  plans   made 


.   dilfert 


ThF  gmiut  Ueptli  of  the  lake  is 
now  31  feet  between  Castiglionj 
del  Lego  and  the  Isols  Maggtore, 
whereas  thirty-two  years  agoa  sound- 
ing is  recorded  near  the  same  point 
which  gave  a  depth  of  33  lu  39  feet. 
The  Emissario,  said  to  have  been  con - 
strutted  by  the  birily  of  Baglioui, 
lordsof  Perugia  in  the  middle  ages,  to 
drain  the  superfluous  water  of  the  lake, 
injudiciously  raised  in  recent 
years,  fiignor  Balduccibelietes  thaiil 
ciislcd  before  the  lime  of  the  Baglioni, 

have     been    under 

I  remote  period  Ihi 

plain  extending  round  the  lake  wai 

much  more  eitensive.  This  fact  will 
!iter  explain  tbe  ancient  accounts  of 

tbe  battle,  and  the  stand  made  by 
Flamimus  neat  ftie  mode™  village  of 
PassVpiana   after  h\i  tivW   itfeal.  a\ 

I  BurgUeUo. 


Papal  StaUsr^    r.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Perugia,       249 


Tlie  Lake  of  Thrasimene  and  its 
historical  associations  give  an  interest 
to  this  road,  independently  of  its  pic . 
turesque  attractions,  which  is  not  felt 
in  any  other  approach  to  Rome  from 
the  north. 

'  ••  I  roam 

By  Tbnuimene*s  lake,  hi  the  defiles 
ntal  to  Roman  raihneM*  more  at  home ; 
For  there  the  Carthaginian's  warlike  wiles 
Come  iMck  before  me,  as  his  skill  beguiles 
The  host  between  the  mountains  and  the 

shore, 
i'Wbere  Courage  falls  in  her  deq^ring  files. 
And  torrents,  sw<^'n  to  rivers  with  their 

RcM  throuch  the  sultry  plain,  with  legions 
scatter'do'er. 

Like  to  a  forest  fell'd  by  mountain  winds ; 
And  such  the  storm  of  battle  on  this  day. 
And  such  the  frenzy,  whose  convulsion 

bltoda 
To  all  save  carnage,  that,  beneath  the  Aray, 
An  earthquake  reelM  unheededly  away  I 
None  felt  stem  Nature  rocking  at  his  feet, 
And  yawning  forth  a  grave  for  those  who 

lay 
Upon  their  bucklers  for  a  winding-sheet; 
Such  is  the  absorbing  hate  when  warring 

nations  meet  I 

Far  other  scene  is  Thrasimene  now ; 
Her  lake  a  sheet  of  silrer,  and  her  plain 
Rent  by  no  ravage  save  the  gentle  plough ; 
Her  aged  trees  rise  thick  as  once  tne  slain 
Lay  where  their  roots  are ;  but  a  brook 

hath  U*en-. 
A  little  rill  of  scanty  stream  and  bed— 
A  name  of  blood  from  that,  day's  sanguine 

rain; 
And  Sanguinetto  tells  ye  where  the  dead 
Made  the  earth  wet,  and  turu'dthe  unwilling 

waters  red.**  Bynm, 

An  additional  horse  is  necessary 
from  Case  del  Piano  to  Magione. 

Leaving  Case  del  Piano,  the  road 
skirts  the  shore  of  the  lake  amidst 
seeneiy  of  exceeding  beauty.  Panng' 
fumo,  a  dirty  village  through  which  it 
passes,  built  on  the  extremity  of  a 
rocky  promontory  of  pietra  serena 
jutting  into  the  lake,  is  chosen  by  the 
TCtturini  as  the  second  day's  resting- 
place  from  Florence ;  the  inn  is  large 
and  new,  clean,  with  a  civil  landlord, 
and  famous  for  its  fish  dinners.  On 
the  ascent  of  the  lufty  hill  of  Torri- 
cella,  where  the  road  leaves  the  lake 
to  descend  into  the  plain,  the  view 
looking  back  over  the  lake  is  one  of 
the  most  charming  prospects  in  the 
journey, 
J  Magione,  m  post^houte  near  the 


summit  of  a  commanding  eminence, 
surmounted  by  an  isolated  square 
tower  of  tall  and  imposing  aspect, 
and  still  presenting  its  vaults,  halls, 
and  machicolations,  which  carry  the 
mind  back  to  the  contests  of  Braccio 
and  Sforza,  when  the  solitary  tower 
must  have  been  a  place  of  consider- 
able strength.  An  additional  horse 
is  required  by  the  tariff  between  this 
station  and  Perugia,  both  ways. 

From  Magione  the  road  descends 
rapidly  into  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Caina,  a  small  stream  which  it  crosses 
in  the  descent,  and  then  gradually 
rises  lis  it  approaches  the  long  and 
lofty  mountain-ridge  of  tertiary  calca- 
reous marl  and  grey  limestone  shale, 
which  divides  the  valleys  of  the  Caina 
and  the  Tiber,  and  on  the  top  of 
which  Perugia  is  built.  The  fine  old 
Gothic  monastery,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Templars,  and  now  a  palace  of 
Cardinal  Doria,  forms,  with  its  ancient 
towers  and  lofty  campanile,  a  con- 
spicuous object  from  the  coad.  The 
ascent  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  of 
Perugia  to  the  city  gates  is  so  steep, 
that  additional  horses  or  oxen  are  re* 
quired  to  assist  the  post-horses  in 
accomplishing  it. 

1^  Perogia.  [fnns:  Europa,  on 
the  Corso,  an  ancient  palace^  very 
good;  La  Gran  Bretagna  (Post), 
also  good.  Both  inns  belong  to  the 
same  landlord,  who  has  lived  much  in 
England,  and  is  very  civil  and  oblig- 
ing, but  too  dear  in  his  charges.]  . 

This  interesting  and  polished  city 
is  unfortunately  one  of  those  which 
the  English  travetler  has  been  led  to 
regard  as  a  mere  post -station,  where 
he  may  change  horses  or  find  accom- 
modation for  a  night.  Few  of  the 
many  hundreds  who  travel  annually 
from  Florence  to  Rome  have  any 
idea  that  Perugia  is  full  of  interest 
to  the  archaralogist  and  lover  of  art, 
and  that  no  place  can  be  more  appro- 
priately selected  as  head-quarters  by 
a  traveller  who  desires  to  study  on  the 
sp.)t  the  wotV%  oi  \\i«l  '^es.vXvM  «^q^ 
of  which  \t  f orifta  \>\^  ^%X.  «eA  cwoNs^ 
StiW  fewer  Yiw^  wi  V\«.  «c«X^w^«» 


K' 


.  noOT»2?.— *to««WB  "po  BOMB.— ipw*^.^  fSeet.-!. 


1 


of  mskiiig  H 

of  llusD,  at   lent,  which   are  ii 

<au)y     aceessiblc     rrom    any 

And  irhen  i 


.galUtl. 


piliicvK,  it*  church Es, 


cm  ptoduee  a  pruv'uioial  city  mura 
.^kuUled  to  repay  the  residence  of 
-•inhJligsntioori.,!. 

Mlttnq/.  —  reniK'Bi  the  ancient  Pe- 

of  iba  Etruuan  IcBgue.  and  is 
rcaly  inferior  id  aDtiquil;  tu  Cor- 
tona.  Of  ill  hbtory  in  Efiucau 
tioiea  little  more  ii  known  thHn  tbat 
its  eitiieoi  were  three  times  defeated 
by  FobiuB,  and  that  it  fell  under  tlie 
power  of  Rome  when  all  the  other 
eiliei  of  Elruria  lost  their  iadepen- 
dance.  In  tbe  reigo  of  AuEuslus  it 
mu  occupied  by  Lucius  Antony,  the 
brother  of  tlie  trmmvir,  and  liesieged 
ty  AligU>tunwho»t»rv«iit  intoBsur- 
mder.  One  of  the  ciliisni,  however, 
■el  fire  to  bii  houie  to  preient  jl  bit- 
ing into  the  hands  of  tbe  coDi)ueror, 
and  tbeHames  unfortunately  upreadiog 
reduced  the  whole  city  lo  aabes.  Au- 
gUiitus  rebuilt  it  as  a  Roman  colooy, 
and  cmnmemDrated  the  event  by  the 
inscription*  wliicb  are  still  Tisilit 
of  its  gates.      Its  history  is 


middle 


than  ihatof  Bulopia or  Siena,  althoi 
the  sirugglea  of  this  free  ciiy  agai 
tbe  gTowing  power  of  the  popes,  and 

tiie  popular   party   and   the   nobles, 
differ  litllefrom  those  which  were  tbe 
imroediate  prccurwn  of  the  lall   of 
nearly  all  the  Italian  repuhlics. 
tiie  events  which  peculiarly  marl 
bistory  of  this  city  bring  befot 
one  of  the  most  eitniordinary 
wboae  cbaraciers  were  formed  by  the 
einsutDstanciB  of  thin  eventful  period. 
Titis   ndebrated    personage,    BraotiiD 
Fenebraceio  da  yioiitane,  the  rival  ol 
CAejV/usCrfuusSroria,  and  like  bim  tbi 
founder  of  »  new  st-tiool  of  military 
tactics,  vas  barn  at  PiTugia.      As  Ibe 


ii'nder  to  Ladistaus  kiiig  of  Naples, 
who  was  supported  by  bis  great  rival 
Siom,      BrsGdiu  cimmeiiEedthia  me- 
morable siege  of  Perugia  in  1416ilbo 
itihabiUnts  gallaiilly  rtsistedi  BTid  at 
k-ngih  vailed  lo  tlieli  aiil  Carlo  Mala- 
tesla,  lord  of  Kimini,  who  was  iin- 
!ly  defeated  in  Ihe  neiitbbour- 
tiood   of  tbe  ci'y   by   Tartaftlia   da 
Lnvcllo,  one  of  Uracclo's  lieutenants. 
The  citizens    then   surrendered  and 
reived   Braccio   as   their  lord,  July 
th,  1416.     His  rule  was  marked  1^ 
wise   and  concilialiag    policy,  and 
s  eminent  warrior,  whose  name  yet 
ea   on   a    hundred    baltle-fietds    of 
ily,  proved  btmself  one  of  Ibe  best 
rulers  of  his  time.      He  recalled  the 
lobility,  reconciled  Ihe  liictians  of  the 
city,  and  administered  jusiice  with  an 
rtial  bond.     The  political  exitt- 
of  Perugia  ended  nt  his  death, 
he  city  returned  Lo  Ihe  dominion 
e   church.      Its  affairs  were  ad- 
ilered   by    Ihe    Bsglioni  family, 
under  tbe  authorily  of  Ihe  popes;  but 
ion    of    this    noble    bouse 
broufrtit  them  into  collision  both  with 
(he  people  and  the  popes.      AFler  se- 
reralcontestsforBupremacy,  Paul  III, 
succeeded  in  reducing  the  cily  to  sub- 
-      '  id,  after  destroying  all  re- 

its  ancient  iostiCutiuni,  di- 

an   effectual  means  of  re- 
pressing any  future  outbreak.      From 
ime  Perugia  bos  with  lev  excep- 
remained  in  passive  obedience  to 
turch.      During  tbe  disasters  at- 
tendant   on    Ihe    FrencJi    iuvasioa  it 
itfiared  Ihe  fate  of  tlie  other   Italian 
'-'ies,  and   became  one  of  the  com- 
nent  parts  of  the  Roman  or  Tibetine 
republic- 
an connection  with  these  historical 
DlB,  tbe  plagues  of  Perugia  may  be 
iced.      During  the  faurteonth  and 
I  fbllowing  centuries  the  city  waa 
IVequeotly  visited  by  this  pestilence; 
in  that  of  134B.  lOo.ooO  persons  are 
lid  to  *ia.ie  puii^eft,  an4  m  ttiat  of 
524  FitWo  EaMftUxi  «»». ■- 


P^goal  Staies,^     R.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Peru^/ia.         251 


Antiquities, — Considerable  portions  !  tony.     The  Porta  Marzia,  another  in- 


of  the  ancient  walls,  and  the  founda 
tions  of  many  of  the  ancient  gates  are 
still  preserved ;  and  though  less  mas- 
sive than  those  oF  Cortona,  they  are 
full  of  interest  as  fine  specimens  of 
£triiscan  architecture  of  the  best  kind. 
The  walls  are  composed  of  regular 
blocks  of  travertine  of  the  finest  ma- 
sonry ;  near  the  Porta  S.  Ercolano  is 
a  portion  at  least  40  feet  high.  Of 
the  gates,  the  S.  Ercolano,  the  Arco 
di  Augusto,  the  Arco  di  Bomia,  and 
Porta  Colonna,  are  Etruscan  as  high 


teresting  gateway  of  Etruscan  work- 
manship, was  removed  from  its  original 
position,  together  with  a  great  portion 
of  the  ancient  wall,  when  the  citadel 
was  built  by  Paul  III.  But  for- 
tunately Sangallo  did  not  allow  it  to 
be  destroyed,  and  the  stones  compos- 
ing it  were  carefully  preserved  by 
building  them  up  afterwards  into  the 
castle  wall.  The  frieze  is  ornamented 
with  six  pilasters,  alternating,  with 
three  male  figures  and  two  heads  of 
horses.     In  the  upper  part  is  the  in- 


as  the  imposts ;  the  Arco  di  S.  Luca,   scription  Colonia    Vtbia^  and   in   the 


the  Porta  di  S.  Pietro,  and  the  Arco 
de'  Buoni  Tempi,  have  all  Roman 
foundations :    the  Arco  della  Conca 


lower  part,  Augusta  Perusia,  both  of 
which  must  have  been  added  after 
the  city  became  a  Roman  colony, 
dates  from  the  middle  ages.  The  ce-  The  Necropolis  of  Perugia  was  dis- 
iebrated  gateway  called  the  Arch  of  covered  in  1840,  in  the  line  of  the  new 
Augustus^  irom  the  inscription  **  Au-   road  to  Rome,  about  half  a  mile  before 


gusta  Perusia**  over  it,  is  the  finest 
and  most  imposing  of  the  Etruscan 
gates.  It  is  a  double  gate,  with  an 
oblique  mroh  about  SO  feet  in  heiglit 
from  the  pavement  to  the  keystone. 
It  is  built  of  massive  blocks  of  tra- 
vertine 3  or  4  feet  lon^  and  laid  in 
ooumes  18  inches  high.  In  one  of 
the  spandrils  are  some  remains  of  what 
seems  to  have  been  a  colossal  head. 
Above  the  arch  is  an  Ionic  frieze,  or- 
namented with  alternating  shields  and 
columns  ;  from  this  frieze  springs  an- 
other arch,  now  blocked  up,  the  whole 
of  which  was  evidently  added  by  the 
Romans.  The  gate  is  flanked  by  two 
square  towers,  whose  masonry,  as  high 
as  the  imposts  of  the  arch,  is  evidently 
Etruscan.  Within  the  gate  is  a  wall 
of  rusticated  masonry  upwards  of  50 
feet  high,  of  the  same  workmanship 
as  the  gate  itself,  but  now  unconnected 
with  it.  The  inscription,  Augusta 
Pumaia,  as  we  have  already  stated, 
was  added  by  Augustus.  If  any  fur- 
ther proof  of  the  high  antiquity  of 
this  gateway  were  re(|uired,  beyond 
that  supplied  by  its  characteristic  ma- 
lonry,  we  might  refer  to  the  evident 
injury  the  arch  has  sustained  by  fire, 
which  would  make  it  anterior  to  the 


we  reach  the  Ponte  di  San  Giovanni, 
and  therefore  on  the  south  side  of  the 
city.  In  that  year  a  peasant  dis- 
covered the  sepulchre  which  has  since 
become  so  celebrated  as  the  **  Tomb 
of  the  Volumnii  &mily ;  **  and  from 
that  period  to  the  present  numerous 
other  tombs  of  the  highest  interest 
have  been  brought  to  light  chiefly  by 
the  researches  of  Cav.  Vermiglioli,  the 
learned  professor  of  archaeology  in  the 
University,  who  has  taken  measures 
to  preserve  most  of  them  just  as  they 
were  found.  No  traveller  who  is  de- 
sirous of  studying  Etruscan  antiqui- 
ties should  pass  through  Perugia  with- 
out visiting  this  interesting  spot  The 
tomb  which  was  first  discovered  is 
called  the  **  Grotta  de*  Volunni,**  and 
is  still  unsurpassed  by  any  which  have 
since  been  opened.  It  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  beautiful  in  Etruria,  and  is 
inferior  in  interest  to  none,  although 
it  is  supposed  to  be  of  as  late  a  date 
as  the  sixth  century  of  Rome.  The 
tomb  is  approached  by  a  long  flight 
of  steps  descending  to  the  entrance  in 
the  hill  side ;  the  entrance  was  closed 
by  a  large  slab  of  travertine,  and  on 
one  of  the  doorpusta  is  still  seen,  as 
fresh  as  on  th«  dv]  NiVi«cv  \x  '<««9k  %lx^ 


general  eoaBsgrMtion  of  the  city  which  I  carded,  aa  ^vtuMwa  \\\%^xv^>C\^Vk.  ^'>i^ 


AUowmi  i/w  Mumader  oi  Lucius  An- 1  the  \eVlei%  ^VL«d  VvxVw  x^^  ^%«wV  ^' 


iSt         iHHme S^^— VKORBKCE  TO  TtOMt. ^ Po-ugm.     fSectl. 


cording  llie  nnmei  of  Amili  and  Ijirih 
Veliminu.  Tliu  lomli  rtm-isti  of  Icii 
dumben;  the  largest,  wUh  a  beam 
■nd  rafter  nw^  is  IJ4  tivl  liy  1 Q,  and 
ISAwt  high:  the  ■' 

In  one  or  thcK  a 

llunu  beiag  of  msrl 


uglier 


Of  tl 


Ultcr, 


their  lid*  n 

the  Mtilijde  of  rcvellen  at  n  fcai 

■illh  bu  B  female  ngure  idltin, 

is  in   the   frirm  of  a  Hoiniin  l< 


arkable 


inseriptton   in  I^tin   and  Rtruscui ; 
ihe  Latin  is  ■■  P.  "  '  " 

Violeas  CafatU  Nil 
can  iseridently  of 
port.  All  the  othei 
tiDDa  recordi 


e  Etru 


e  heads  of  Mi'dusa 


has  in 


.  Gorgon 


of  cipresion.  Over  ilie  door  is  ■ 
large  shield  belwccn  two  curved 
■wordi.  bearing  a  bead  in  relief,  sup- 
p«ed  lo  be  thai  of  ciihn  Meduan  or 
Apollo.  In  ibe  angles  of  the  pedi- 
ment ate  two  busts  of  singular  cha- 
racter,  but  the  face  of  one  bas  disap- 
peared, and  though  it  is  emy  to  see 
Ibal  the  otlier  wears  a  peaoml'a  dresi 
and  bears  (be  croaked  staff,  it  ii  difficult 
lo  explain  their  real  meaning.  On 
the  other  walla  of  Ihe  ehamber  are 
flgureauf  dragons  or  serpents,  made  of 
earthenware  with  metal  tongues  which 
>eem  ready  to  hiss  at  each  intruder, 
and  the  remains  of  a  colossal  winged 
demon  in  reliefl  The  tomb  has  been 
presened  in  the  state  in  which  it  vaa 
luund,  but  most  of  the  vases,  lamps, 
innouT,  veapons,  paterffi,  or. 
and  bones,  have  been  removed 
neighbouring  tiIIb  of  Count 
flionjf  tbe  proprietor  of  the  ground, 
9  very  liberally  Mows  them  to  he 
Wpected  by  (ravellers.  Many  leas' 
ainSnguisbed  tombs  have  since  been' 
ajietied,  and  arc  preserved  with  theit 


painted  urni  just  as  tbey  were  found  ; 

of  the  Etruscan  (amiliea  of  Pumpurii 
( Putnponius),  Ceisi  (Casius),  Veti 
CVetlius).  Casni  (Ceaina),  Pharu 
(Farms).  Pelroni  (Petronius),  Acsi 
(Accius),  Anani  (Annianu.),  Vipi 
(Vihius).  Among  the  many  curios 
objects  found  within  these  tombs  and 
now  preserved  in  the  Vilhi  Baglioni 
are  a  bronie  curule  chair,  coins,  mir- 
rors, curling. irons,  lamps,  helmets, 
greaves,  and  even  eggs.  The  griffin 
of  Perugia  is  one  of  the  most  frequent 
emblems  on  the  urns. 

About  two  miles  from  the  city,  at 
Ihe  hamlet  of  La  Commenda,  on  the 
road  to  Florence,  is  the  once  cele- 
brated Etruscan  tomb  called  the 
"  Teinpio  di   San  Manno,"  from  the 

it  contains,  with  channels  on  their 
upper  surfece,  as  if  to  carry  olT  the 
blood.  This  lomb  has  been  known 
for  ages,  and  though  now  used  as  a 
cellar,  ic  is  slill  remarkable  for  its 
beautiful  masenry,  fur  its  perfectly 
arelied  roof,  and  its  wonderful  state  of 
preser»alion.  It  is,  however,  a  mere 
vault,  2T  ft.  long  by  about  13  <l.  wide, 
and  15  ft,  high.  Its  finely  arched  roof 
is  composed  of  blocks  of  travertine, 
16  fl  louf;.  and  10  ft.  high.  Ou  the 
left  side  IS  the  inscription  in  three 
lines,  called  by  MafTei  "the  queen  of 
inscriptions,"  and  still  valued  as  one  of 
the  luiigest  and  most  perfect  known. 

Perugia  is  now  the  capital  of  Ibe 
sei'OiiJ  delegation  of  the  Papal  Slater, 
and  is  consequently  governed  by  ■ 
Monsignore  or  prelate.  The  delega- 
tion incluiles  in  superHciat  eitenl  345 
square  leagues,  and  a  population  of 
202,660  souls.  The  population  of 
the  L'ity  itself  is  about  15,000.  The 
bishopric  of  Perugia  was  founded  a.n. 
57 !  Sl  Ercoiano  di  Siria.  one  of  tlu:  foU 
lowers  of  SI.  Peter,  wosits  first  bishop. 

School  of  Umbrla. — As  Perugia  may 
be  considered  the  centre  of  Ihis  school 
of  painting,  it  will  be  useful  to  give  a 
brief  summary  of  such  of  its  leading 
svW  ena\fte  *e  ua^alUr 


t-L  ViW    1 


P^qfoi  Siaies.^    R*  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Perugia.       253 


churches  and  galleries,  and  thus  trace 
its  influence  on  the  masters  of  the 
Roman  school.  The  school  of  Urn- 
bria  is  essentially  characterised  by  the 
spiritual  tendency  of  the  art.  The  deep 
religious  feeling  and  enthusiasm  in- 
spired by  the  great  sanctuary  of  Assisi 
seem  to  have  exercised  an  undivided 
sway  over  all  the  painters  within  the 
sphere  of  their  influences;  and  the 
school  of  Umbria,  like  that  of  Siena, 
may  be  regarded  as  the  transition  from 
the  classical  style  prevalent  at  Florence 
to  that  devotional  style  which  attained 
its  maturity  under  Raphael.  The  oldest 
painters  €^  the  Umbrian  school  are 
Martindla,  Matteo  diGualdo,  und  Pietro 
AnioHio  da  Foligno  (1422),  whose 
works  we  shall  hereafter  meet  with 
at  Assist.  In  the  latter  half  of  the 
same  century  occurs  Niccolo  di  Fo- 
ligno, better  known  as  Niccold  Alunno, 
a  superior  and  expressive  painter, 
whose  works  still  exist  at  Assisi  and 
in  his  native  city.  Fiorenzo  di  Lorenzo, 
hisci<ntemporary,a  rare  and  admirable 
master,  who  can  only  be  studied  at 
Perugia,  and  Benedetto  Bonfigli,  who 
seems  to  have  followed  the  style  of 
Gentile  da  Fabriano,  were  the  imme- 
diate predecessors  of  Pietro  Vannucci 
of  Citta  della  Pieve,  called  Pietro  Pe- 
rugino  from  the  city  of  his  adoption, 
who  is  the  great  master  of  this  school. 
Peruxino  seems  at  first  to  have  com- 
bined the  styles  of  these  earlier  pain- 
ters with  many  peculiarities  of  the 
Florentine  school;  and  at  length, 
striking  out  into  an  original  path,  in- 
troduced that  style,  peculiarly  his  own, 
which  exercised  so  great  an  influence 
on  the  earlier  works  of  his  pupil 
RaphaeL  With  Perugino  may  be 
associated  Bernardino  Piniuricchio  and 
Andrea  di  Luigi.  or  V  Ingegno^  his 
able  contemporaries,  and,  according  to 
Vasari,  his  scholars ;  but  the  Spanish 
Lo  Spagna  is  considered,  next  to  Ra- 
phael, the  most  eminent  of  all  his  pu- 
pils. Among  the  successors  and  imi- 
tators of  Perugino  are  GiannieotOf 
Tiberio  d^AMsiai,  Girdamo  Genga^  and 
Adorn*  Domi,  To  the  Umbrian  school 
mme  writerM  hmve  mito  referred  6rto- 
vamni  SamH  of  Urbino,  the  Ikther  of 


Raphael,  and  Francesco  Francia,  who 
has  been  noticed  in  the  account  of  the 
school  of  Bologna,  to  which  he  more 
properly  belongs.  Of  the  influence  of 
the  school  of  Umbria  on  the  genius  of 
Raphael,  whose  early  powers  were  first 
developed  here  under  the  instructions 
of  Perugino,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
enter  into  an  examination  in  this  place. 
The  question  is  treated  fully  in  Kug- 
ler's  «<  Hand-book  of  Painting,"  to 
which  the  reader  is  referred  for  a  more 
complete  account  of  the  several  mas- 
ters alx>ve  mentioned. 

The  CathedrcU,  or  Duomo,  dedicated 
to  San  Lorenzo,  dates  from  the  end  of 
the  fifteenth  century,  and  occupies  the 
site  of  a  more  ancient  church.  Its 
fine  bold  Gothic,  although  as  much  as 
possible  transformed  into  the  Roman 
style,  still  presents  many  features  for 
study;  most  of  its  pointed  windows 
have  been  closed  up,  but  its  wheel 
window  still  remains.  The  porch  on 
the  side  of  the  Corso  is  by  Scaiza,  the 
celebrated  sculptor. of  Orvieto.  The 
interior  is  imposing,  but  its  effect 
is  somewhat  impaired  by  its  parti- 
coloured appearance,  "nie  chapel  of 
the  left  nave  contains  the  masterpiece 
of  BaroedOf  the  Deposition  from  the 
Cross,  painted  while  he  was  suffering 
ft'om  the  effects  of  the  poison  given 
him  while  occupied  at  the  Vatican,  by 
some  envious  rivals  who  had  invited 
him  to  a  repast,  in  order  that  they 
might  more  easily  accomplish  their 
purpose.  It  was  stolen  by  the  French, 
and  for  some  time  after  its  restoration 
was  in  the  Vatican.  The  richly  painted 
window  of  this  chapel  (1565)  is  by 
Constantine  da  Rosaro,  and  Fra  di 
Barone  Brunacci,  a  monk  of  Monte 
Casino;  the  wood  carvings  of  the 
stalls,  after  the  designs  of  Raphael,  are 
very  beautiful.  The  Chapel  of  the  SS. 
Sacramento  is  remarkable  as  the  de- 
sign of  GaUasto  Alesti,  the  great  archi- 
tect of  Perugia ;  the  stucco  ornaments 
are  by  Scaiza,  In  the  right  nave  is 
a  marble  sarcophagus,  containing  the 
remains  of  lb.t^ft'^o'^%^ — \cvwq^^\sX\W.% 
Urban  \\.,Wi^^%x<vcv\N.    X^^'^ 

winiet  cYio\t  S»  wi  «\\«tvvft<i*  ^1«^' 
St9iiorelH«    TVi*  c«3«3tot^Nft^  ^v««^' 


FoewST— ^uHtKWCE  TO  K0ntK.-^P»vgia,-  f  Saoti-H 


of  Pciugino,  formerly  id 
del  StiHu  Anelln,  wu  ,. 
ftiaoj  Dtfaer  spoils  after  t 
■"  nf  TolentiiM) 


u  ting  uT  the  u 


0»e 


lijeol  by  Cbv, 
.1  oiled  "  del 
Stnlo  Ancllo,"  rrom  ar  uiciciil  rioK 
or  onyx  or  agate  preserved  licre,  and 
Iiiphly  venerated  as  the  wedding-ring 
of  ihtf  Virgin.  Tlie  stalls  are  iiilnid 
with  wry  (legant  arabewiUB  ue-iKn". 
In  the  narisly  tire  two  tiuall  pictures 
of  Si.  Peier  and  St.  Puul  by  Gianai- 
mla.  The  l.ilnnry  coiilaina  aercral 
biblical  raritieH  of  great  valuu;  among 
whicli  are  the  Codex  of  fortr-two 
IcBTBS  nn  papyrus,  containing  tbe  an- 

shapten  of  the  Goipel  of  St.  Luke,  in 
gilt  letter*,  suppoiwii  to  be  of  Ihe  sixth 
century,  anil  ■  Breviiiry  of  ttie  ninih. 

Tbiire  are  upwards  of  100  Cburclies 
in  Perugia,  and  aliout  SO  monailic 
CBiablisbmeiitB.      Of  these  Ihe  follow. 

ThB  Coanul  of  St  Agneat  ha*  two 
small  ohaiioli  painted  by  Pier™  Pcm- 
gino.  Tbe  fir^t  reprewnls  llie  Virgin, 
with  St.  Antooy  the  Abhot,  and  Su 
Antony  of  Padua;  the  second,  the 
Almighiy  in  hisglory.    It  is  neceasary 

The  Church  of  S.  Agoitina  con- 
tains  two  works  of  Rrugino  on  the 
light  and  left  of  the  entraocei  one 
reprenenting  the  NatiTitv,  the  other 
tile  BapIiBiu  of  Ihe  Saviour,  They 
originally    Ibrmed   a   ^nglo    picture, 


rifibt  t: 


.       nres   by 
le  representing  the  Al- 
mighty in  the  midwt  of  the  Seriphini, 
the  other   St.  John  and  St.  Jerome. 
The  Adoration  of  the    Ma^i   is  by 
2l..mi«'eo  ill  Parii  Alfati,  said  to  Ik 
de<.igned  by    Rosso    Fiorenlino.      In 
the  left  trouBept,  over  tbe  door  of  the 
sacristy,  is  the    Madoono,   with    St. 
Nicbolai  and  8t.  BcnidTdin  in  glory, 
and    St.    Sebastian    and    St.    Jerome 
belotr.by  Hr^gina.    Ttia  intarsLeand 
bas-reliefs   „{  the  seats   of  the  chou 
are   by  Ajfaolo    Fiurentipo,    from  the 
deslgus  of  Pecugiao.     Jn  the  Morlaty 


prewntin;;  various  ISaiutK.by  Perugiae, 
a  sketch  by  Led.  Curaeci.  another  by 
GnHTJMO,  a  fine  head  of  the  Sit' 
by  the  school  of  Michael  Angelo,  and 
four  oblong  pictures  much  injured 
representing  tbe  Marriage  of  Ci 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  the  i 
oumcision,  and  the  Frcnohing  of  St. 
John     the      Baptist,     aitribiiteil 

by  some  of  his  able  scholars  i  the 
Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost  is  by 
Taddto  Bartolo,  a  remarkable  paint- 
ing, execute  in  1403. 

The  CoafruttndtA  di  S.  AgoHiac 
BilJoiDiiig  has  a  superbly  gilt  rooi^ 
with  paintings  by  Oraiio  di  ParU 
A^ixai,  Scaramuccia,  Gtiffliardi,  /te. 
In  the  sacristy  is  a  painting  of  the 
school  of  Pi-TUgina,  dated  1510,  and 
representing  tbe  Madonna  and  Child 

The  Church  of  S,  Aogdo.  a  ciroular 


buili 


ing.  t 


mbUng 


Rome,  has  been  considered  a 
Roman  building,  or  an  ancient  temple 
dedicated  to  Neptune ;  but  it  appears 
more  probable  that  it  was  built  in  tha 
fifth  or  sixth  century,  of  ancient  I 
man  materials.  The  interior 
sixteen  eolummi,  evidently  taken  irom 
other  buildings,  all  diff-^riug  in  e 
material,  and  in  the  design  of  the 
capitals.       A     Gothic    doorway    wat 


eenlh  ct 


t  of  A 


The  Chui 
Antonio,  formerly  renu 
aliarpiece  by  Kaptaiel 
vity  by  Perugino,  has  been  despoiled 
of  its  great  treasures.  The  altaqpieea 
of  Raphael  lias  been  disperse ' 
various  collections  ;  the  two  \_ 
portions  are  at  Naples,  and  the  five 
sniall  suhjecia  of  the  gradino  are  ia 
England ;  two  arc  at  Dulwich,  one 
in  tbe  collection  of  Mr.  Samuel  Ro. 
gers,  one  in  that  of  Mr,  Miles  of 
Leigh  Court,  and  tbe  Itftli  li 
Mr,  Wbyte  of  Barron  Hill. 

Tbe  Con/rofcriufd  d/  S.  b 
called  also   ■'  La   Giustiiia,"   hy    the 

\tua\i.  Via*  ft  t™.i\i\E  ?ai;a4o\i'j  Aaoitvuo 
della  Bobbla,vtv^eies»:vn6Ma-»mt  •«. 


Pcgpal  Staie9.2    R*  ^* — Florence  to  rome. — Perugia.      265 


art,  and  curious  as  exhibiting  the 
passage  of  the  Gothic  into  the  classic 
style.  It  is  covered  with  arabesques 
and  bas-reliefs,  representing  various 
miracles  of  the  saint :  in  the  niches 
are  statues  of  S.  Costanzo,  &  £rco- 
lano,  the  Angel  Gabriel,  and  the 
Virgin  at  the  Annunciation.  The 
work  bears  the  date  of  1461,  and  has 
this  inscription,  Opua  Augustini  Fio" 
Ttntini  Lapidicae,  In  the  church  is 
a  Cross  with  the  Crucifixion  on  a 
gold  ground  by  Margaritoae,  with 
the  date  1272.  The  altarpiece,  re- 
presenting St.  Bernardin  and  the 
Saviour,  is  by'  Benedetto  Bonfigli, 
In  an  inner  chapel  is  a  Madonna  and 
Child,  with  St.  Francis  and  St.  Ber- 
nardin, by  Perugino, 

The  church  of  S,  Domenicoj  built 
in  1632  from  the  designs  of  Carlo 
Maderno,  occupies  the  site  of  the 
fiimous  church  built  by  Giovanni  di 
Pisa  in  1304,  which  had  falkn  into 
decay.  The  west  end,  however,  with 
its  superb  Gothic  window,  has  been 
preserved,  and  on  its  inner  walls  are 
still  visible  sonae  terra-cotta  orna- 
ments and  statues  executed  by  Agos^ 
tino  deOa  Bobbia  in  1459.  The 
lancet  window  has  two  transoms,  and 
is  filled  with  the  most  beautiful 
painted  glass,  executed  by  Fra  Bar- 
tolommeo  of  Perugia  in  1411.  Its 
great  treasure,  however,  is  the  Afo- 
nument  of  Benedict  XL  by  Giovanni 
di  Pita,  justly  considered  by  Cicog- 
nara  as  one  of  the  finest  works  of 
the  revival.  It  was  erected  by  Car- 
dinal da  Prato  to  the  memory  of  the 
murdered  pontiff,  who  is  represented 
in  a  reclining  posture,  full  of  grace 
and  dignity,  under  a  Gothic  canopy, 
with  two  angels  drawing  aside  the 
drapery.  The  canopy  is  supported 
by  two  spiral  columns  encrusted  with 
mosaic ;  under  its  upper  part  are  the 
Madonna  and  Saints.  This  able  pope, 
whoiie  virtues  and  talents  had  raised 
him  firom  an  humble  station  to  the 
highest  honours  of  the  church,  vainly 
•ndeavoured  to  reeoncUe  the  Bianchi 
and  Neri  of  Florettee,  and  to  procure 
tbeieaUi  of  the  Utter  from  exile ;  he 
^f^  to  coatm4,oa  tb9  on^hmndtwiOk 


the  most  unscrupulous  monarch  of 
Christendom,  Philip  le  Bel,  and  on 
the  other  with  the  cardinals,  who 
were  jealous  of  his  independent  au« 
thority.  Benedict,  during  his  re- 
sidence at  Perugia,  had  issued  two 
bulls  against  Guillaume  de  No^aret 
and  the  other  parties  implicated  in 
the  seizure  of  Boni&ce  VIII.  at 
Anagni  Philip  le  Bel  considered 
himself  compromised  by  these  ex- 
communications, and,  fearful  that  the 
pope  might  adopt  ipore  direct  mea- 
sures, he  employed  Cardinal  Orsini 
and  Cardinal  Le  Moine  to  compass 
his  immediate  death.  This  was  dona 
by  sending  a  person  disguised  as  a 
servant  of  the  nuns  of  &nta  Petro- 
nilla  to  present  to  the  pope,  in  the 
name  of  the  abbess,  a  basket  of 
poisoned  figs.  Giovanni  Villani  ao» 
cuses  the  cardinals  of  the  act,  while 
Ferreto  of  Vicenza  states  that  they 
employed  the  pope's  esquires  as  their 
agents.  The  unhappy  pontiff  struggled 
eight  days  against  the  poison,  and  at 
length  died,  July  4.  1304.  The  most 
remarkable  painting  in  the  church  is 
the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  in  the 
lef^  aisle,  by  Benedetto  BonJIgli,  or 
Gentile  da  Fabriano,  with  the  date  of 
1460.  llie. sacristy  conteins  two  tall 
pictures  by  GiannicoUtf  one  represent- 
ing St.  Elizabeth  and  St.  John  the 
Baptist,  the  other  the  Madonna  and 
St.  John  the  Evangelist ;  and  a  small 
picture  by  BeiUo  Angelico,  which 
seems  part  of  the  gradino  representing 
the  life  of  S.  Nicolo  di  Bari  in  the 
Vatican  Gallery.  There  are  also  some 
small  figures  by  him.  The  massive 
campanile,  reputed  one  of  the  largest 
in  Italy,  was  even  taller  than  it  is  at 
present,  but  was  reduced  by  order  of 
Paul  III.  when  the  citadel  was 
erected. 

The  church  of  iS'.  Ercolano,  a 
Gothic  structure,  was  founded  in 
1297,  and  rebuilt  in  1325,  from  the 
design  of  Fra  Bevignate,  a  Siivestine 
monk.  The  frescoes  of  its  walls  and 
roof  are  by  Gian  Andrttk  CorUm^^vcA 
bear  the  ^t«  oi  \6^0. 

The  ohuTcVi  oi  \Vke  Cow^oX.  o\  S 
FraMCtsco  dei  CfmxwXw»&^  oxM^n«^l 


55S        noin*27.-^i'toiiEWCB  to  no\rE Peruffia.'  fSi 


pnmL  On  Ibe  right  b  the  fli 
pcture  of  St.  John  Ihe  Bapiist,  viih 
St  Jerome,  St.  Sebastian,  St.  Francis, 
and  St.    Beniiirdin,  by    IWitgin 


oof    B[ 


ebyi 


piHte.  Id  the  lell 
Mutjrdoin  of  8l.  SebBttian,  by  Pt 
ra^tiu,  punted  in  hii  serenty-second 
yeBi(1518).andeihibitinge''idenceof 
hii  declining  powcn.  Among  it 
other  pictures  are  the  Arcbangel  M] 
elwol,  by  Orajio  Alfani ;  the  Dispute 
with  the  Doctors,  by  the  esme,  which 
death  prevented  him  from  complet- 
ing; the  flnely-Gni^ed  Nativity  by 
OtK  ume,  painted  in  1546;  and  the 
Fkdre  Eleino,  abote  this  picture, 
atliibuteJ,  but  on  inauHicient  grounds, 
to  Raphael.  Near  it  is  the  copy  of  the 
Ealombinent  by  tliat  Rieat  painter, 
nov  in  the  Borgheie  Gallery,  by  the 
Cat.  fArfiiH,,  which  Paul  V.  subsU- 
luted  for  iha  original  picture.  The 
ehiari-seuri,  representing  Faith,  Hope, 
and  Charity,«recopiesDf  those  which 
one  or  the  monks  is  said  to  have  cut 
OfTvhen  the  picture  was  removing; 
the  originals  are  in  the  Vatican.  Over 
llie  altar  near  the  tacristy  ia  a  Ma- 
donna and  Child,  with  this  inscrip- 
tion in  Gothic  characters :  *'  bboo, 
M.ccc.Liixiiii,  meniie  Juni,"  painted 
as  an  Ex  Voto  in  time  of  pestilence, 
perhapa  by  some  Siene^e  artiiit      In 


!,  representing  the  miracln  and 

itt  of  the  lire  of  S.  Bernardin,  by 

PitancBo   (1473);    and     8t. 

id  St.    Paul,  by   Fionmo  di 

In  a  side  ehipel,  enclosed 


c  presci 

skull   anil  bones   of    the    illustrious 

Braccia  Farhbraceio,  tlie  great  captain 

of  the  middle  ages,  the  conqueror  of 

Rome,  who  ruled  this  bis  native  city 

with  more  wisdom  and  justice  than 

an;  of  her  other  masters.     lie  lell  at 

the  siege  of  Aqoi\»,  June  5.    1494,  a 

/ev  months  only  after  Iiis  heroic  rivsl 

S/brza,   then  raininaiiding    the  forces 

"f  Joanna  of  Naples,  perished  in  Ihe 


Pescara.      T!ie  body  of  Urscc 

interred  in  unconaeerated  ground.  ai 
being  that  of  an  eicominunintled 
person.  Perhaps  this  may  acconnt  | 
for  the  profamtion  still  shown  ti 
remains  of  that  great  and  honou 

which  they  are  now  exposed  t< 

rellem  is   a    national 
is  a  disgraci 
Peruginns   that   the    bones 
illostrions  captain  have  not 


The  ill 


n  Ibel 


s  of 


records  Ibat  the  bones  were  placed 
there  in  Ihe  ponliHcatc  of  Eugene  7". 
and    designates    Braccio    as    "  Italia  \ 


There  is  ni 

inscription 

genius  did  so  much  lo  embellish  tb= 

cities  of  Italy.      Surely  there  is  public 

'piril  enough  in  Perugia  to  make  an 

honourable  though  tai^j  reparation  to 

these  two  illustrious  citizens. 

The  church  of  Sto.  Ci«Uana,  a 
Gothic  edifice,  built  in  1392,  is  re- 
markable for  its  fine  wheel  window, 
and  for  a  semicircular  painting  of  the 
iffbly  by  Ptn^ino. 


The 


.srkable 


1   S«oBa 


Tho   Adoratioi 

^Bting  work  in  ll 
FemgiHB,  who  has  introduced  b 


Die  allarpi 


leleft  tr 


ipor- 


of  the 

I,  with  God  the  Father 
n  a  glory ;  it  is  dated  1 466|  and  is 
.ttributed  by  some  to  Niccoli  Atatna, 
lud  by  others  to  Bimfisli.  Opposite 
s  the  Transfiguration  by  Pems'iiiB. 
Three  small  pictures  of  the  Annun- 
■  Natiiity,  and  the  Baptism 
uT  the  Saviour,  in  the  soeriaty,  are  also 
by  I^ra^^Ho,  and  the  St.  Sebastian  and 
St.  TlDc\l '»  Ai^  SAutloM  a  Pvmba. 
\  The  chuTc\\  at  ttie  Midon-nn.  4iAW 
\  Luce  sbov<E  t\vB  ^aEsa?,*  ot  Vbs  GqSSk 


Pc^foi  SuaesJ]     R.  27. — FLORENCE  TO  ROME. — Perugiiu       257 


into  the  classic  style,  from  the  designs 
of  Giulio  Dantu  It  has  still  a  fine 
wheel  window,  composed  of  seven 
smaller  circles,  and  a  double  Gothic 
doorway,  llie  celebrated  picture  of 
the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  Ra- 
phael, begun  shortly  previous  to  his 
death,  and  finished  by  Giulio  Romano 
and  Francesco  Penni,  was  stolen  by 
the  French,  and  is  now  in  the  Vatican. 
A  modern  copy  has  been  sent  to  this 
church  to  fill  its  place. 

The  Confraterniti  of  S,  Pietro  Mar- 
tire^  near  the  church  of  S,  Dotnenico, 
has  an  eiquisite  Madonna  and  Child 
between  two  angels,  and  worshipped 
by  members  of  the  Confraternitl,  by 
FeruginOf  a  work  of  so  much  beauty 
that  it  has  been  attributed  to  Raphael. 
Numerous  early  works  occur  in  nearly 
all  the  churches,  many  of  which  are 
elaborately  finished,  and  with  that 
attention  to  detail  which  marks  the 
works  of  Albert  Durer  and  the  early 
German  masters. 

The  Benedictine  monastery  of  St. 
Peter,  S,  Pietro  de*  Ccuinenti,  is  one  of 
those  fine  establishments  of  the  order 
which  exhibit  the  combined  character- 
istics of  cleanliness  and  order  through- 
out the  building,  and  gentlemanlike 
courtesy  on  the  part  of  the  brethren. 
The  church  presents  a  specimen  of 
the  ancient  basilica,  supported  by 
eighteen  columns  of  granite  and  mar- 
ble taken  from  an  ancient  temple.  It 
is  quite  a  gallery  of  pictures.  In  the 
nave  are  ten  paintings  by  AUense, 
representing  the  Life  of  the  Saviour, 
one  of  which,  among  the  five  on  the 
right  side,  was  painted  at  Venice 
under  the  direction  of  Tintoretto ; 
St.  Peter  Abbot  sustaining  the  fiiUing 
column,  Totila  kneeling  to  St.  Benedict, 
and  tlie  Saviour  commending  his  flock 
to  St.  Peter,  by  Giaeinto  Gimignani  j 
the  Resurrection,  by  Orazio  di  ParU 
AlfoHx ;  the  Vision  of  St.  Gregory  at 
tlie  castle  of  St.  Augelo,  by  Ventura 
Salimbeni ;  copies  from  Guercino  of 
the  Christ  bound,  and  the  Flagella- 
tion,  by  AHenee;  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi^  hj  j4done  JDoni,  very  gracC' 
fuJ;  m  Mmdoana  and  Child,  attributed 
to  Jia/tAa€l{?);  good  copies  of  Ila- 


phaePs  Annunciation  and  Deposition, 
by  Sassoferrato ;  and  the  Dead  Christ 
by  Perugino.  In  the  chapel  of  the 
Sacrament  are,  the  St.  Benedict  send- 
ing St.  Mauro  and  St.  Placido  into 
France,  with  a  view  of  Monte  Casino 
introduced,  by  Gio,  Fiammingoj  the 
St.  Peter  and  St  Paul,  by  Wicar ;  the 
Madonna  in  fresco^  by  Lo  Spagnaf 
and  three  fine  frescoes  by  yanari,  re- 
presenting the  Marriage  of  Cana,  the 
Prophet  £lijah,  and  St.  Benedict. 
In  the  left  aisle  are,  a  has* relief  of  the 
Saviour,  St.  John,  and  St.  Jerom^ 
by  Mino  da  Fiesole,  dated  1473;  a 
Deposition,  by  Benedetto  Bonfigli^  in 
1468  ;  the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  by 
Gennari,  the  master  of  Guercino.  The 
other  pictures  are  the  Judith  of  SaS' 
soferrato;  the  Assumption,  by  ParU 
At/ani;  and  the  Madonna  and  Child, 
by  the  school  of  Pemgmo,  which  is 
said  to  have  been  taken  to  Paris.  The 
Ascension,  painted  by  Perugino  for 
this  church,  was  also  stolen  by  the 
French,  and  transfisrred  to  Lyons. 
Over  the  door  of  the  sacristy  are  some 
excellent  copies  by  Saeso/errato  from 
Perugino  and  Raphael,  representing 
Sta.  Catherina,  Sta.  Apollonica,  Sta. 
Flavia,  and  near  them  S.  Placido  and 
S.  Mauro.  In  the  sacristy  are  five 
beautiful  little  pictures  by  Perugino, 
framed,  representing  Sta.  Scolastica, 
S.  Ercolano,  S.  Pietro  Abbate,  S. 
Cdstanzo,  and  S.  Mauro.  St  John 
embracing  the  Infant  Saviour  is  the 
earliest  known  work  of  Raphael 
copied  from  one  of  Perugino*s  sub* 
jects.  The  Sta.  Francesca  is  by  CarO' 
vaggio ;  the  Holy  Family,  by  Parme* 
giano(?);  the  Head  of  the  Saviour,  by 
Dosso  Doisij  the  Crowning  with 
Thorns,  by  Bnssano ;  the  £cce  Homo, 
said  to  be  by  Titian ;  the  fine  pictures 
of  Christ  Bound  and  the  Flagellation, 
by  Guercino ;  and  the  six  frescoes,  by 
Girotamo  DantL  The  choir  is  en- 
riched with  stalls  of  wal nut-wood, 
worked  in  bas-relief  by  Stcfano  da 
Bergamo  firom  the  defiigns  of  Ra- 
phael :  they  are  aU.  d\^«t«<cvV  %cA  <cw^ 
inimitabU  gr^^ce  Mi^  t\,<\\3\«v\.«&  ^*»R.^ 
of  the  gteaV  muX^t  «^^>i%>t  ^^«^  ^'^^ 
been   heTC»  a*  \\\  xYvii  Xo^i^^  ^^  "^ 


i 


df  «(M>d-iror1i  EoDtuln  re- 
raiukalilc  ipcciniens  of  lariia  by  Fra 
Uiuiiiuio  da  Bergamo.    The  buaks  of 


le  spnee  belveen  the  [iva  bjlh  oa 


«ill   F 


,  in  the  n 


e  of 


if   Perugia,    by  wbum   tbey 
d  irorkii  they  are  rk-h  in    ireri;  diiefly  execuluU. 

The  Fuamain,  begun  in   1374  a 
eediiig    Saitbed  in  1380,  was 

vorki  of   Giocaani  ai   i-iia,    una    is 

in;;  illustrHtiun  of  the  rsvivul.     It  coa- 

■  valley  of  tbe  Tibet  as   one  oier  the   other ; 
I  tnot  of  rich  and  g\ 

.ored  with  lillngei,  bronie.  I.  The  first  tnuble  baun  ii 
IIS,  and  towers  and  enoircled  by  a  pulygun  of  tn'eiity'faur  sidea,  ex^ 
itureHiuc  funni  of  the  Umlirjaa  I  of  which  is  divided  into  Iva  comparU 
ains.  I  menu.  DrnameDted  viih  bas-reliet^  bf 

church    of    tbe    Camaldulile  !  Iliis  great  uulptor.      Among  the  sub- 
of  X  S'lPBTo  conuins  the  first  j«ls  iHpteseiited  are  the  actions  aai 
ipations  of  human  life  during  the 
ve  months  of  the  year  i  the  Lion, 
le  emblem  of  the  Guelph  party  ; 
CriHin  of  Petugiai  lymholieal  re- 
pre^ntations  of  the  arts  and  sciences; 
'dam     and    Eve;    Samson  i     David 
id  Goliath  i    Romulut  and  Remus  i 
e  fables  of  tbe  Stork  and  the  Wolf, 
Iha  Wolf  and  the   Lamb,  in  allusion 
no  doubt  to  the  ancient  emblems  of 
the  Tuscan  republics.    2.  The  second 
basin,  supported  by  columns,  is  also  • 
palyfcon  ot  twenty-four  sides,  in  each 
ol'  which  is  B  small  statue.  The  sculp- 
Lare  of  this  second  basin  has  been  at* 
tributed    to  Amoiro   Fiorentino,  but 
it  does  not  appear  that  there  is  any 
good  authority  for  disregarding  it  as 
tbe  work  of  Giovanni  di  Pisa.      Tbe 
subjects    begin    with    SL   Peter,    the 
Christian  church,  and  Rome,  and  are 

a  shell  uf  bronze,  supported  by  a 
ilumn  ol'  the  snme  metal.    Out  of  iU 

griffins. 

TboPiDiiaiW  Papa  is  80  called  from 
he  fine  bronie  statue  of  Julius  III, 
xecutcd  liy  Vii)ceniio  Danti  in  1555. 
It  was  one  of  his  very  early  works,  as 


(eenth  century,  painted  wiib  t 
Iraauty  by  inonlU  of  the  Be 
order.  Behind  the  tribuib 
opens  out  upon  a  balcony,  wl 


The 


tainted  by  RaiAa.1  It  is 
much  damaged,  hut  is  highly  interest- 
ing as  a  sult)ect  of  study.  It  repre- 
sents in  ■  luiii'tte  the  Almighty  be- 
tween two  aagels  and  the  Holy  Spirit, 
and  btJow,  the  Saviour,  a  beauliful 
flgure,  with  EL  Mauro,  S.  Plaeido,  & 
Benedetto,  and  3.  Romualdo.  The 
fulluwing  iiuoription   is  underneath  i 

Slfll-iim  Voblenuo  Friore  Sandam 

pinxit,  x.B.  Hsiv.  Below  it  on  the 
ndes  of  the  niche  arc  St.  Jerome,  S^ 
John  the  EvanifeUst,  St.  Gregory  the 
Great,  St.  Boniface,  Sta.  Scolastica,  and 
Sta.  Martha,  by  Pcnuiiuo.  Underneath 
■Bilieinseriplion,  Peln;$dt  CattroPlrbit 
PerBiinsi  Itmpart  Domini  Silvalri  SU- 
pluni  falaU/niBi  a  Destrii,  u  SuiU- 
Im  Hie.  CriMophorae  mnctat  miBcdu- 


by  ituphael  resembles  in  its 
^on  the  upper  part  of  the  1 
the  Sacrament  in  the  Stani 


eomposi-   i 


The  ehuieh  of  S.  Tom-maK 
jn  sltarpiece  re|iresenting  thi 
llulity  of  St.  Thomas,  the 
mnsterpiece  of  GiamivJu. 

1  i/d  Siipranna 


n   (he  n 


-'  D»IH\,   Temit 


hieh  aupportBit,filVinB\ciBbat."     T*ic  imgn  v= 


,  adhuc  puber.    fa- 


Papal  States.']    R.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — P^ruffia.     ^59 


have  been  given  by  his  fkther  Giulio. 
The  citizens  erected  this  statue  to 
Julius  III.  in  gratitude  for  his  resto- 
ration of  many  of  their  privileges, 
which  were  taken  from  them  by  Paul 
III.  after  their  rebellion  against  the 
salt-tax.  The  statue  during  the  Ita- 
lian revolutions  had  some  singular  vi- 
cissitudes :  it  vras  removed  for  safety 
from  one  place  to  another,  and  at 
different  periods  occupied  the  cellar 
of  the  Monaldi  palace,  the  palace  of 
the  Inquisition,  and  the  Fortress. 

The  nugestio  Palcuzo  Comunale,  the 
residence  oi  the  delegate  and  of  the  ma- 
gistracy, is  supposed  to  have  been  de- 
signed by  Bevignate,in  1333,  although 
some  authorities  date  its  foundation 
from  1281.  Its  front  presents  a  melan- 
choly aspect :  many  of  its  rich  Gothic 
windows  have  been  closed  up,  and 
new  ones  opened  in  a  modern  style. 
The  first  story  is  the  only  one  which 
has  been  tt^erahly  preserved.  The 
upper  story  has  only  four  perfect 
windows,  and  their  great  beauty  makes 
the  tfavelier  regret  more  deeply  the 
loss  of  the  others.  Its  lofty  door- way, 
with  its  round-headed  arch,  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  Italian  Gothic;  it  is 
covered  with  elaborate  sculptures  of 
animals  and  foliage,  and  its  graceful 
spiral  columns  give  it  a  great  similarity 
to  many  of  our  own  cathedral  doors. 
Among  its  decorations  are  the  arms  of 
the  cities  in  alliance  with  Perugia, 
viz.  Uome,  Bologna,  Florence,  Pisa, 
Naples,  and  Venice ;  the  arms  of  the 
pope,  and  of  the  king  of  France ;  three 
statues  of  saints  ;  six  allegorical 
figures;  the  lions  of  the  Guelphs; 
and  two  griffins  tearing  a  wolf,  the 
griffin  being  the  emblem  of  Perugia 
and  the  wolf  that  of  Siena.  The  in- 
terior is  not  particularly  remarkable : 
the  grand  hall  was  the  place  where 
the  Perugians,  as  a  free  municipality, 
held  their  general  councils.  One  of 
the  antechambers,  formerly  the  chapel 
of  the  priors,  has  a  fresco  of  Bene- 
dtUo  Banfigiit  in  1460,  partly  damaged. 
The  admirable  architectural  details 
excel  «J>  other  works  of  the  time.  The 
A«/y,  now  uaed  by  the  Magistratura, 


has  a  fresco  representing  Julius  III. 
restoring  to  the  city  the  magistrates 
IV ho  had  been  removed  by  Paul  III., 
and  an  Ecce  Homo»  by  Perugiiw,  la 
the  communal  archives  is  an  interest* 
ing  municipal  curiosity,  a  full  code  of 
laws  for  the  administration  of  justice^ 
digested  in  1342,  and  written  in 
Italian,  which  is  of  great  value  for  the 
illustration  of  the  language  and  habits 
of  that  early  period. 

The  Sala  del  Cambio  (the  Exchange), 
now  no  longer  required  for  its  origi- 
nal purpose,  is  covered  with  frescoes 
by  Pentgino,  the  best  which  he  has 
left  in  the  city  of  his  adoption.  On 
entering  the  hall,  the  paintings  on  the 
right  wall  are  the  Erythraean,  Persian, 
Cumsean,  Lybian,  Tiburtine,  and 
Delphic  sibyls ;  the  Prophets  Isaiah, 
Moses,  Daniel,  David,  Jeremiah,  and 
Solomon;  and  above,  the  Almighty 
in  glory.  On  the  left  wall  are  dii& 
ferent  philosophers  and  warriors  of 
antiquity,  with  allegorical  figures  c^ 
diflTerent  virtues  above  them.  Tliey 
occur  in  the  following  order  :  Lucul* 
lus,  Leonidas  Codes,  with  the  figure 
of  Temperance;  Camillus,  Pittacus^ 
Trajan,  with  the  figure  of  Justice; 
Fabius  Maximus,  Socrates,  and  Numa 
Pompilius,  with  the  figure  of  Pru* 
denoe.  On  the  wall  opposite  the 
entrance  are  the  Nativity  and  Trans- 
figuration. On  a  pilaster  on  the  left 
is  a  portrait  of  Peru^tno  himself.  Near 
the  door  is  the  figure  of  Cato.  On 
the  roof  amidst  a  profusion  of  beau- 
tiful arabesques,  are  the  deities  repre* 
sen  ting  the  seven  planets,  with  Apollo 
in  the  centre.  In  the  execution  of 
these  gractful  frescoes,  Perugino  was 
assisted  by  Raphael  t  the  Erythriean 
and  Lybian  sibyls,  and  the  head  of 
the  Saviour  in  the  Transfiguration, 
are  said  to  be  his  works.  In  an  ad- 
joining chapel  is  an  altarpiece  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  and  frescoes  illus- 
trating his  life  by  the  scholars  of  Pe- 
rugino, with  excellent  decorations;  but 
both  in  the  Sala  and  in  the  chapel  the 
light,  except  at  midday « U  N«.t^  ^<^d« 

The    Puluzzo    Gw«nvoll\»o^  vok  ^^ 
Piazza  de\  "Dxiomo^  N&  \^*  ^^^a  ^ 


HOiJTE  27. — FLORENCE  TO  ROME. — Perftffut.     [Sect.  I. 

iials,   formerly  sii|)- 


^HDomuiule,  a  Colhio  bui[Jing,  l)i>sring 
■   theinsignaorthe  lion  and  iliv  griffin. 

bejCHid  tbe  dstails  of  itn  Cuthie  arim- 

■ITie  Vnit^tltg  of  Perug'iH,  founded 

the  Olivetuns.  It  *»!,  liln'rally  en- 
duwed  by  vatiuiu  popm  mid  emperon, 
and  ranks  next  after  llmu  of  Rome 
aail  Bologna  in  the  Pupal  Slnret  for 

second  lo  none  in  the  high  ofauracter 
and  tjilent  of  its  profi^oT^  It  baa  a 
botanic  garden,  a  cabincL  of  mine- 
ralogf,  and  a  muieum  of  antiquitiea. 
The  Muteim  a  invaluable  tu  the 
student  oF  Etrus«n  art  and  monu- 
ments. It  bos  been  enriched  by  gifts 
from  yarioas  eitiiens,  consisting  of 
remains  found  in  llie  neighbourhood 
of  Perugia.  It  contnini  numerous 
cippi,  villi  figures  in  bss-relief,  several 


nells,    I 


three  teet  hlgb,  tritli  sepulchral  in- 
scitptlons;  numerous  cinerary  utna, 
beating  Latin  ai  well  as  Etruscan  in- 
scriptions; a  sareophugus  discovered 
in  1844,  vithreliels  on  three  aides,  (he 

of  eaplires.  The  collection  of  Inscrip- 
tions is  gradually  approaching  to  a 
hundred  specimens:  the  most  valu- 
able consists  of  forty-five  lines,  and  is 
the  longest  which  has  yet  been  found 
in  the  £lruuan  character.  It  vas 
diicovered  near  the  city  in  18Z2,  and 
occupies  tvo  sides  of  a  block  of  t 
vertine,  3j  feet  high,  and  9  incl 
square;  the  letters  are  beautifully e 
and  are  coloured  red.  Archawiogi 
are  quite  at  fault  as  to  the  meaning  of 
this  inscription,  but  Sir  William  Be- 
tbam,  in  his  "  Etruria  Coltica,"  con- 
tends that  it  is  written  in  Irish,  and 
relates  to  the  voyage  icrass  the  Bay 
of  Biscay  1  Some  of  the  coins  and 
bronzes  ore  also  very  interesting ;  the 
latter  include  a  great  variety  of  hel- 
mets, spears,  sirigils,  mirrors,  hinges, 
and  other  &miliar  articles.  But  the 
most  remarkable  objects  are  the  silver 
andbroaxe  platew,  with  bas-reliela  ot 
arabeagues,  deities,  mytfaolugicul  per- 


.elong   t 


bign,  L 


tiunsoTfuneral  furniture.  They  were 
found,  together  with  numerous  figures 
and  sepulchral  l^ea^u^es,  in  1810,  by 
a  peasant  of  Ca.itel  San  Alsriano,  4 
miles  trom  Perugia,  where  it  is  sa^ 
posed  they  hod  been  buried  for  con- 
cealment The  silver  plates  were  of 
course  an  object  of  speculation  lo  the 
diteoveters;  some  of  them  were  melted 
down,  and,  of  those  which  were  for- 
tunately preserved,  a  portion,  includ- 
ing the  has.ret(ef  of  the  charioteer  in 
silver  gill,  now  in  the  British  Mu- 
seum, fell  into  the  bands  of  Mr.  Dod- 
well  and  Mr.  Millingen.  The  latter 
gentleman's  share  was  purcboHid  by 
Mr.  Payne  Knight,  and  presented  by 
him  lo  the  Britiidi  Museum.  A  beau- 
tiful Etruscan  vase,  5  <eet  high,  re- 
presents Penelope  and  Telemachtu; 
another  represents  a  bridal  scene. 

Tha  Finatoleea,  or  Gallery  of  the 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  although  a 
imall  collection,  comprises  many  in- 
teresting works  in  the  history  of  »Tt 
Among  iliem  is  the  tine  example  of 
FiKturiechio,  dated  1495,  and  com- 
posed of  sii  picture*  jomed  logather, 
in  which  are  represented  with  singular 
feeling  and  eipression  the  Virgin,  St, 
Auguslin,  St.  Jerome,  the  Annuncia- 
tion, a  Piel^  and  the  Archangel  Ga- 
briel. Other  romarkable  works  by 
PiRtitricchin  are,  the  four  Evangelisls, 
the  Si.  Auguslin,  and  a  portion  of  ■ 
larger  picture,  Tepresenling  various 
saints,  paiiiteil,  it  is  said,  ftota  the 
designs    of    Raphael.       Another    re- 


liable  1 


Child,  with  two  angels, 
and  St.  Bernardin.  by  'Ikdico  Bartii'Ji. 
llie  Virgin  and  four  saints,  with  the 
S.iviaur,  the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and 
four  other  saints  on  tbe  plinth,  is  by 
Btnozta  Gotzali.  The  Virgin,  mth 
St.  Francis  and  St.  Bernardin,  is  by 
mccold  Alunno.  The  Martyrdom  of 
St  Catherine  is  by  Parit  Alfani.  A 
painting  with  two  series  of  figures, — 
one  lepieMtittng  Si.  Ysvet,  Sv.  Ba.i'., 
\  and  aeveral  oftiev   BaXnva  ■,    ^-V*  oewn 


PtqMl  Siates.2    R.  27* — Florence  to  rome. — Perugia.      261 


representing  the  Saviour,  the  Virgin, 
and  St.  John  the  Baptist, — is  a  beau- 
tiAil  work  of  Giannicola.  In  a  chapel 
above  is  a  fine  fresco  by  Perugino^ 
representing  the  Madonna  and  Child, 
with  St.  Martin  and  St.  Benedict ; 
on  the  ceiling  above  is  a  representa- 
tion of  the  Almighty,  with  an  angel 
on  either  side;  the  two  latter  are 
said  to  be  by  Baphael, 

Private  GalUriet.  —  Many  of  the 
private  galleries  of  Perugia  have 
small  but  interesting  collections ;  they 
contain  numerous  works  by  Perugina, 
several  reputed  works  of  Raphael; 
but  a  large  number  of  the  former 
were  no  doubt  executed  by  Perugino's 
schc^axs,  and  few  of  the  latter  are 
completely  authenticated.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  principal  palaces :  — 

The  Palazzo  Baglioni,  interesting 
chiefly  from  the  recollections  asso- 
ciated  with  the  name  during  the 
middle-age  history  of  Perugia,  con- 
tains  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  and 
Child,  by  Perugino  ;  and  three  paint- 
ings by  the  modem  artists  Camuc« 
cini  and  Landi,  illustrative  of  the 
history  of  the  iamily 

Vhe  P.  Baldeschi  in  the  Corso  has 
the  original  drawing  by  Raphael,  re- 
presenting iBneas  Sylvius,  when  a 
bishop,  assisting  at  the  betrothal  of 
the  Emperor  Frederick  III.  with 
Eleonora  infiinta  of  Portugal.  This 
beautiful  design,  of  whose  authen- 
tieity  there  is  no  doubt,  was  executed 
for  the  library  of  the  Cathedral  of 
Siena. 

The  P.  Bracceachi  has  a  collection 
of  Etruscan  sepulchral  urns,  illus- 
trated by  Prof.  Vermiglioli,  and  some 
pictures,  among  which  are  the  Sta* 
Barbara  by  Domenichino ;  a  head  by 
Geeei;  a  St  Francis  on  copper  by 
Cigcli :  the  Angelo  Custode  by  Cav, 
tTArpinOy  /^c. 

The  P.  Camilletti  has  an  allegorical 
picture  illustrating  the  '*Vanitas 
Vanitarum,*'  as  inscribed  upon  it,  by 
Baroedo  ;  a  head  of  a  young  man  by 
Pieiro  da  Cortona ;  a  St.  John  Bap« 
tizt  Mttriiwted  to  Caravaffgio. 

Oppomte  to  tbU  ia  the  bouse   of 


Pewginot  which  will  be  regarded  with 
exceeding  interest.  On  one  of  the^ 
inner  widls  is  a  fresco  of  St.  Christo-^ 
pher  by  the  great  artist,  painted,  it  is 
said,  as  a  compliment  to  bis  father, 
who  bore  the  name. 

The  P.  CanaJi  has  a  mineralogical 
and  geological  collection  of  some  local 
interest;  and  a  dying  Magdalen,  a 
beautiful  work  by  Guercino, 

The  P.  Cenci,  contains  several  pic* 
tures :  the  Seasons,  by  Pietro  da  Cor- 
tona g  a  Bacchus;  a  Madonna  and 
Child,  by  the  same ;  a  Holy  Family, 
by  PeriMO  del  Vagas  Leda  and  the 
Swan,  by  the  same;  an  Infant  Sa- 
viour with  angels,  by  Domenichino; 
St.  Helena,  by  Innocenzio  da  ImoiUx  ; 
St.  Francis,  by  Gvido, 

The  P.  Ceaarei  has  two  designs 
attributed  to  Raphael,  one  represent- 
ing Christ  before  Herod,  the  other 
Paul  preaching  at  Athens ;  a  pen- 
and-ink  sketch  by  Michael  Angela  for 
the  full  length  figure  of  the  Saviour 
in  the  Minerva  at  Rome ;  and  a 
design  by  Baroccio^  representing  the 
institution  of  the  Eucharist. 

The  P.  ConnestabUi,  the  palace  of 
Count  StafTa,  has  given  name  to  one 
of  the  earliest  and  most  beautiful 
works  of  Raphael,  the  Madonna  and 
Child,  well  known  as  the  *<  Staffa 
Madonna."  It  b  a  small  round  pic- 
ture of  exceeding  beauty,  in  which 
the  Virgin  is  represented  reading;  the 
Child  is  likewise  looking  into  the 
book.  This  is  one  of  the  best  au* 
thenticated  and  most  charming  pic- 
tures by  the  great  artist ;  the  family 
long  possessed  the  original  agreement 
for  it  between  Raphael  and  Count 
Stafia;  but  it  has  unfortunately  been 
lost.  Among  its  other  paintings  are 
a  portrait  and  a  Virgin  and  Child,  by 
Pinturicchio  ;  four  octagonal  pictures 
representing  different  characters  of 
heads,  two  of  which  are  copies  from 
Raphael,  by  Saeeoferrato ;  a  small 
picture  of  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
attributed  to  Raphael  in  his  early 
youth.  TVieie  \s^  ^«o  ^  ^^«&>C\Qicw  ^ 
designs  b^  Perugiiu),  ^tv\  ^  ^ni^ivEAN.  ^^ 

\  GOIQS. 


see        KocreS?.— w»i>">»cB  TonoMK. — Per^ria.    fScct. 

The  P.  d«>li  IMH  (ai  Porta  Sole)  lo  bit  frienrl  Guv.  dfDs  Peniui 
iaihewoond  gallery  in  point  nleil 
in  I'eru^is.  Aniung  its  pIctuiKs 
Ibe  fbllooilis  T  —  by  aapAarl,  i 
anall  picture*  of  Lhe  Pr«enIstiDn 
the  Temnlc,  Biid  tlic  Adoration  of 
Ibgi;  GMiih,  Lb  CiriU  Roma 
twu  pieturvs  uf  children,  and  a 


?1 


I   the    Virgin 


Mndiei 


I.  JuditI 


Magdalen,  and  Daiid;  Pietra  da 
Otrtmo,  Head  of  s  Maedaleo  (  Pin- 
twtu*h,  a  design  br  a  Holy  Family. 
fto.;  Baraccio,  a  3t.  Francis;  Do- 
RMucAi'iu,  a  Virgin  and  Child ;  Iwa 
pielures  by  Andrta  del  Sarloi  a  ile- 
Bgn  liy  Miihad  Angth  fur  a  Cruci- 
filion  ;  and  aonie  designs  and  studies 

The  P.  Donini  has  a  small  gallery 
voataiaing  two  otigioal  dTawing>i  by 
Am^'iu.  rcpicseDtioK  the  Anounct 


i  FubhUc 


of  the    Adoratii 

8l  Michael,  belieied  to  be  by   A< 

Madonna  and  Child,  with  St.  Frauo 
and  St.  Luke,  by  Pengino ;  Iw 
■laborate  paintings  on  coppeci  repre- 
aenting  tha  Adoialion  of  the  Magi, 
and  the  Murder  of  the  Innocent^  by 
TitioMi  a  liMDale  head  by  Batacrio, 
snd  other  works. 

The  P.  MmaMi  cODlains  a  large 
picture  of  Neptune  in  his  sea  chariot, 
TMHTing  tribute  from  llie  Earth. 
painted  by  Guida  for  Cardinal  Mo- 
naldi.whcnlegateDfBoloena.  Jteon- 
taina  alao  the  sketch  Tar  this  picture  ; 
seterg]  designs  by  Giurcino,  and  two 
ptotares  by  him.  —  one  reprnettting 
Ibe  Saviour  led  to  Judgment,  the 
Other  the  Flagellntion. 

The  P.  PfMtia  ii  the  most  extensve 
gallery  of  Perugia,  well  arranged, 
each  subject  bearing  the  real  or  sup- 
posed name  of  the  pairrter.  The 
following  are  the  most  remarkable  i 
FtrngiHo.  a  Madunnn  and  Chilil 
throned  and  crowned  by  five  angels,  ofsiiiy  pupils. 
between  St.  Jerome  atiri  St.  Fiaueis  ;  The  Lmalie  Aiytum  of  Peru^^lo, 
•fMMfafjrra  J/arleloramea,  a  Pieto.  under  the  direition  of  Dr.  Sunli,  his 
with  Iteo  Aposila  :  Salv'il'<T  J)o«a,\a«iuiTe(t  almost  as  mueh  ei 
Jbar  landscapes,  and  n  sketch  repre- Ulie  ureal  c»\B\i\\5i™«i\l  lA 
smiting  liiitnelf  in  the  act  of  writing  1  Dr.  SeAMJ  -wa*  one  "^  ^'a" 


ereral 

The  P.  SoTbelbi  has  s  Madonna  j 
Child,  by  l^rruffino;  a  portrait  by 
GitlOa,  B»id  to  be  tlmt  of  Michael  An- 
gelojaSL  Anthony  A bbol,  by  Gtiirfa, 
a  Madonna  and  Child,  copied  from 
Raphael,  by  A»drta  litl  Sanoi  asmi" 
cui'y  on  copper  of  the  Madunna  del 
Svgglolo,  by  DiimeaJcAino,  &c 

Signor  llartclli,  bonkacller,  oppoai 
Uie  PalaiEo  Comunale,  has  one  of  il 
finest  existing  pictures  of  Bottfigli  i 
his  shop,  which  he  is  h«ppy  to  sho 
to  strangers:  iirepretentathe  Anou] 


ins  nearly  5(1.000  iolumea,Hnioni 
which  are  snme  M8S.,  a  collectioi 
of  Perupan  edilioos  of  Uie  fifieeiitl 
century,  and  a  aeriia  of  Aldinoi 
AmonR  the  MSS.  are  the  Stephanin 
Byaaniinus  of  the  Kllh  century,  am 
the  works  of  St,  Augustin  with^nl 
niatures  of  the  thirteenth  century 
Among  the  printed  bonks  is  the  Gn 
printed    at    Perugia,    containing    thi 


e   Collrpio  Pia,  so  called  from 
Pope  Pius  VII.,  who  gave  his  warm 
Iragement    to  its  establishment, 

Profoisor  Culiui,  the  learned  jurist. 
lyKiem  has  been  entirely  inudelled 
icordonce  with  his  views,  and  tha 
tut  ion  bos  already  acijuired  a 
reputation  throughout  Italy  for 
sound  and  judicinui  maiuiei   in 


.!«- 


PtqMi  States.']    r.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Perugia.      26S 

very  difTerent  feeling  from  that  of  the 
Perugian§  in  the  palmy  days  of  their 
republican  institutions  when  they 
reminded  an  unpopular  prelate  of  the 
terrible  poison  called  VAcqvetta,  for 
which  Perufpa  had  acquired  no- 
toriety during  the  middle  ages  :J 


enns  who  proved  the  efficacy  of  the 
system  of  non-restraint,*  now  so  much 
eommended  and  adopted  in  England ; 
kind  and  conciliatory  treatment  under 
his  management  have  been  productive 
of  the  happiest  results ;  and  the  cures 
have  beeifi  about  two«thirds  of  the 
number  admitted. 

The  Fortress,  called  tlje  CitacteBa 
Ara^Mo,  was  begun  in  1 540,  by  Pope 
Faul  Til.  (Famese)t  who  dtetroyed 
one  of  the  finest  quarters  of  the  town, 
and  the  palaces  of  the  principal  ci- 
tizens, ibr  the  purpose.  It  was  de- 
rigncd  by  Sangatto,  and  finished  in 
1544,  by  Gakasso  Ahssi.  Its  apart- 
ments and  chapels  were  decorated 
with  frescoes  by  Rafiade  del  Colle 
and  other  artists,  but  they  were  de- 
stroyed during  the  political  troubles 
which  followed  the  French  invasion. 
After  that  time  its  ditches  were  filled 
up  and  converted  into  a  public  pro> 
menade,  and  the  citadel  itself  was 
made  a  powder  •magazine.  As  how- 
ever  it  still  commanded  the  town 
without  protecting  the  inhabitants 
from  invasion,  it  was  almost  entirely 
dismantled  by  the  citizens  during  the 
revolutionary  troubles  of  1849.  The 
entrance  gateway  is  by  Galeasso 
Alessi;  the  two  statues  of  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul  in  the  first  court  are  by 
Seahot  who  was  employed  with  Mosea 
in  the  ornamental  sculpture  of  the 
building.  The  circumstances  which 
preceded  the  construction  of  this  fort- 
ress arose  out  of  the  salt-tax  imposed 
by  Paul  III.  The  pope,  careless  of 
concealing  his  motive,  recorded  his 
opinion  of  the  inhabitants  in  the  fol- 
lowing haughty  inscription,  long  vi* 
sible  in  the  court :  **  Ad  coercendam 
Pernsinorum  audaciam  Paulus  III., 
anlificavit.'*  l*he  first  cannon  is  said 
to  have  been  introduced  in  a  corn- 
sack,  and  local  tradition  still  pre- 
serves the  record  of  the  jealous  feeling 
with  which  the  Perugians  re<;arded 
this  encroachment  on  their  liberty, 
in  the  popular  distich  — 

••  0*Rcchd  co«l  vuo]e  i)  dlavolo 
Evwtva  Pnim  Paolo  !  " 

7y»w  harmless  reprisal  showed   a 


t*  MoDtloior.  non  tanta  tntUC 
Che  A  Perugia  c'%  racquetta."i 

On  the  firieze  €i  the  first  court  of 
the  citadel  is  an  inscription  recording 
the  circumstances  of  its  erection,  but 
in  terms  more  moderate  than  those 
of  the  pope:  "Paulus  III.  Pont 
Max.  tyrannide  ejeeta,  novo  civitatis 
statu  constituto,  bonorum  quieti,  et 
improborum  fraeno,  arcem  a  solo  ex- 
citatam,  mira  celeritate  munivit,  Pont, 
sui  an.  saL  xliii."  The  view  from 
the  castle  terrace  will  folly  repay  the 
trouble  of  the  ascent. 

There  is  a  good  Casino  letterario  at 
Perugia,  where  reviews  are  taken  in, 
and  to  which  strangers  are  admitted 
on  proper  introductions. 

Outside  the  walls  of  the  city  are 
the  church  and  convent  of  S.  Fran* 
eesco  del  Monte,  founded  by  Fra  Elias, 
the  companion  of  S.  Francesco  d'As- 
sisi.  It  contains  a  beputifol  and 
touching  fresco  of  the  Ntttivity,  by 
Pervffino;  another  expressive  work 
by  the  same,  representing,  in  two 
parts,  first  the  Madonna,  with  St. 
John  and  the  Magdalen,  and,  in  the 
second,  the  Madonna  and  Child,  with 
the  Apostles.  It  contains  also  se- 
veral works  by  the  school  of  Peru- 
gino.  The  ancient  classical  library 
for  which  this  convent  was  formerly 
celebrated  has  been  long  dispersed. 

The  Fairs  of  Perugia,  well  known 
throughout  Italy,  occur  twice  in  the 
year,  and  are  attended  by  a  great  con- 
course of  persons  from  different  parts 
of  the  States.  The  first  lasts  from 
the  1st  to  the  14th  of  August  for 
beasts,  and  to  the  22nd  of  August 
for  merchandise.  It  is  railed  Zm 
Fiern  di  Monte  Luce,  and  is  held  vtv 
the  ham\et  aAjoKivvTv^  vVv^  xcvwv^aX.^^-^ 
of  C/artsw,  a  \\x\\«i  o\\\<\^e  ^Jcv^  '^^'^1 
walls.     TVie  «ecotid,  c«J\<i^  l-«^  "^*^'^'* 


■     lulsfrui 


t  S7.— TtonsKcB  TO  KOHz.— JVni^.  [Sect. 


fur  bciul 


and  n 


ihc  4lh  or  No- 
Tcmber.  It  ukps  ilH  name  from  the 
(by  filed  Ly  Silvester  II.  for  Ihe 
eomnufnutTBtion  of  the  dtad,  being 
IlieSnd  orthemonlh. 

RoBiJi  lead  rrom  Perugia  to  CilU 
,A  CuWllo,  and  to  Gubbio  (Routes 
'.SO,  SI),  to  Narni  through  Todl 
:(Route  33),  to  CitU  dclla  Pitve, 
Cbiuri,  and  Orvielo  (RouleSS).  A 
new  raid  hoa  also  been  recentljr  cut 
Oom  Perugia  straight  to  Terni,  hy 
which  the  circuit  of  FoligDO  and 
^leto  may  be  avoided. 

Leaving  Perugia  fur  Foligno  by 
the  new  road  compleled  in  1843. 
vhioh  leavea  the  Ueoedictine  monas- 
tery on  the  right,  ve  soon  deicend 
inlo  the  ralley  of  the  Tiber.  This 
mnch  lieller  engineered. 


1  i  n 


i   tun 


I 


one,  which  led  down  i 
bf  B  steep  de««nl  of  3 
tcenerjr  which  it  cominaiids,  bounded 
bjr  the  picturesque  outlme  of  the 
mountaini  bcbind  AisUti.  is  eitremely 
beautiful,'  and  Ihe  plnini  below  are 
sharaclerised  by  a  high  state  of  fer- 
dlity  and  cuilivalion.  In  the  line  of 
the  new  road,  about  halfa  mili^befbre 
TeaobiDg  the  Fnntc  di  S  Giovanni,  a 
ted,  in  1B40,  an  Etras- 

the  ancient  NecropuUs  of  Perugin. 
■  This  lomb  and  the  others  which  have 
lalnce  been  brou|(liI  lo  light  have  ■!- 
ready  been  described  in  our  account 
of  the  Biilic|uitie9  of  Perugia  ;  but 
we  may  here  agiin  remark  that  no 
ttsveller  who  is  intereslcd  in  Etruscan 
antiquities  should  fail  lo  devote  an 
hour  to  a  visit  to  them,  and  to  Ihe  col- 
lections in  the  villa  of  Count  Boglioni 
atlbefbotofthGhlll.  {Seep. SSI.)  At 
the  Tiber  we  reach  the  boundary  of 
SDcient  Etruria,  and,  cruising  it  by  a 
narrow  bridge  of  live  arches,  called 
Ponte  di  S.  Giovanni,  enter  ancient 
VinbTia  the  lerrltury  of  0  people  who, 
fy  tbe  combined  testimony  of  the 
Zatia  wrhets,  and  by  olher  eolUtEfal 


will  very  probably  bt 

wliere  the  classical  traveller  will  see 

Ihe  "yellow  Tiber." 

-  HuDc  Inter  duvlo  Tlbniaiu  anwna. 
Vortlclbui  ruridii,  ct  mults  Baviit  >ri>iui, 
In  mate  ptonioipil."  Xh.,  vU.31. 

This  celebrated  river  rises  under 
JMonte  Coronaro,  just  within  th« 
Tuscan  frontier,  below  the  village  of 
Le  Balie,  one  of  the  Papal  frontier 
stations  of  the  I'orii  district,  near 
the  spot  n-hcie  the  Savio  and  the  Ma. 
recchia  likewise  have  their  origin. 
According  to  Calindi 


^ 


length,  a 


s  349  □ 


.t  Ponle  8an  Giovanni 
lot  very  broad,  but  it 
imed  up  for  Ihe  purpose 


beds  of  n 


At  San    Giovanni,    the 


0  (piel 


ia)a 


dipping  tciwardsthe  8.  W. 
bed  of  the  Tilier.  Further  on,  the 
road  crosses  the  Tescia  and  the  Chio. 
glo.  which  unite  below  the  two  bridges 
and  fiill  into  the  Tiber.  The  Utt'e 
village  of  Bostia,  near  Ihb  spot,  has 
in  the  choir  of  ita  church  an  allar- 
piece  composed  of  several  small  pic- 
lures,  by  Niceald  Alm-Ko,  with  the 
dale  14!)g.      Patsi 


and  level  plaii 


1  Sta. 


degli  Angeli,  at  the  distance 
about  len  miles  from  Perugia. 
1  Sta.  Maria  degli  Angeli,  the  first 
itt-slalion  from  Perugia.  A  IliirJ 
irse  is  retioircd  by  the  larifP  for  car- 
riages with  Ihree  horses,  and  two  for 
irriages  with  four  or  sii  horses,  from 
lis  place  to   Peni^a.    hut   not  vke 

This  station  takes  Its  name  from  the 
iaje«ic  church  of  Sta.  Maria  degli 
Angeli.  built  from  the  designs  of  Tig- 
m.ls,  by  Galeasso  Alessi  and  Giulia 
Danti,  to  pmicct  the  small  Gothic 
chnpel  in  which  St.  Francis  laid  the 
foundation  of  his  order  and  di 


evidence,  are   known 'to  have  been  Ihe  \ita  Tu\eB.     T:\vb  Ktovioi  wxM^wd   by 
'Original  inhabitaata  of  Jtaij.      TbU  i  ttio  otigmaV  V"Ji\*nm " 


Papal  States.']  route  27.— Florence  to  ^o^E.^-AssisL  265 


to  him  by  the  Benedictines,  a  cireum- 
fttance  which  gave  to  the  present 
ehurch  the  additional  name  of  Por- 
tioncula.  During  the  earthquake  of 
1832  the  church  was  almost  wholly 
ruined,  the  tower  was  destroyed,  the 
roof  opened,  and  many  of  its  columns 
gave  way.  The  cupola,  which  had 
long  been  celebrated  for  the  boldness 
of  its  design,  was  not  materially 
damaged,  and  under  it  still  remains 
undisturbed  the  original  cell  and  the 
little  chapel  of  St  Francis.  The 
nave  and  choir  which  were  destroyed 
have  been  rebuilt.  The  church  is 
remarkable  for  its  great  fresco,  re- 
presenting the  Vision  of  St.  Francis, 
r^arded  as  the  masterpiece  of  the 
modem  German  master  Overbeck.  The 
Stanza  di  S.  Francesco  is  also  remark- 
able for  its  frescoes  of  the  Com- 
panions  of  the  Saint,  a  series  of 
beautiful  figures  by  Lo  Spagna,  now 
▼ery  much  injured. 

Excursion  to  Assist. 

At  this  place  a  road  branches  off  to 
Annni,  distant  about  a  mile  and  a  half. 
No  traveller  who  takes  an  interest  in 
the  history  of  art,  who  is  desirous  of 
tracing  the  influence  which  the  de- 
votional fervour  of  St.  Francis  exer- 
cised on  the  painters  of  the  fourteenth 
and  fifteenth  centuries,  will  fail  to 
visit  Assisi.  To  many  the  distance  is 
not  beyond  the  compass  of  a  walk ; 
but  if  the  impedimenta  of  the  travel- 
ling carriage  be  an  insurmountable  dif- 
ficulty, arrangements  may  be  made  at 
Perugia  for  the  excursion ;  the  carriage 
may  be  sent  on  to  Spello  or  to  F'oligno, 
and  a  light  carriage  of  the  country 
faired  to  ascend  the  mountain ;  it 
might  then  proceed  to  either  of  those 
places  by  the  excellent  road  which 
leads  direct  from  Assisi  to  Spello, 
without  the  necessity  of  returning  to 
Gli  Angeli.  There  are  no  inns  at 
Assisi  worthy  of  the  name ;  the  Lo- 
canda  below,  avoiding  the  tedious 
ascent  of  the  hill,  is  La  PaJomha ;  in 
the  upper  toirn,  the  best  appears  to  be 
that  of  Cqfaneili,  near  the  Piazza  di 
Cen/,  ft. 


Sta.  Chiara.  Those  who  wish  to 
explore  at  leisure  the  curiosities  of  the 
place  may  have  a  bed  and  two  meals 
here  for  4  pauls  a  day.  At  the 
house  of  t<orenzo  Carpinelli,  architect. 
Via  di  S.  Giacomo,  the  same  enter* 
tainment  costs  Sj  pauls,  of  which 
moderate  terms  many  artists  avail 
themselves. 

Assisi  is  the  sanctuary  of  early 
Italian  art,  and  the  scene  of  those 
triumphs  of  Giotto  to  which  Dante 
has  given  immortality  : 

"Credettc  Cimabue  nella  pintura 

Tener  lo  campo,  cd  ora  ha  Giotto  U  grldo, 
SI  uhe  la  fama  di  colui  d  oscura.'* 

Pwrg.,  xi.  94. 

Surrounded  by  its  battlements  and 
towers,  and  commanded  by  its  lofty 
and  ruined  citadel,  with  its  long  line 
of  aqueducts  stretching  across  the 
mountain,  Assisi  is  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  spots  in  Italy.  Its  in- 
terest will  be  increased  in  the  esti- 
mation of  the  Italian  scholar  by  the 
beautiful  description  of  Dante  : 

**  Intra  Tupino  e  r  acqua,  che  discende      ^  \ 
Dal  colle  eletto  dal  beato  Ubaldo, , 
Fertile  costa  di  alto  monte  pende, ' 
Onde  Perugia  sente  fireddo  e  caldo 
Da  Porta  Sole,  e  dirieto  le  piange 
Per  greve  giogo  Nocera  con  Gualdo. 
Di  quella  costa  Ift,  dov'ella  Grange 
Pill  sua  rattessa,  nacque  al  mondo  un 

sole, 
Come  fa  queato  tal  volta  di  Gange. 
Perb  clii  di  esso  loco  fa  parole, 
Non  dica  Assesi,  che  dtrebbe  corto. 
Ma  Oriente,  se  proprio  dir  vuole." 

Par.^  xi.  4S. 

The  Sagro  Convento  belongs  to  the 
order  of  the  SS.  Apostoli,  one  of  the 
reformed  orders  which  have  sprung 
from  the  original  foundation  of  St. 
Francis.  The  brethren  of  this  order 
are  all  possidentis  and  their  easy  cir- 
cumstances, added  to  the  general 
cleanliness  of  their  establishment,  offer 
a  striking  contrast  to  the  poverty  in- 
culcated by  their  great  founder.  It 
is  an  immense  building,  and  within  its 
walls  were  collected  in  former  times  a 
larger  number  of  monks  than  even  in 
the  great  monastery  of  Monte  Casino. 
It  was  begun  in  l^^ft,Vi^  VXv^  ^^x'cscKa 
architect  3aco^o  Tft^«'5si^>  \i^x\«t 
known  as  Jacopo  di  L.apo,>^cva^«J^'^^  ^^ 


^  Roiaa  S7.-^:TU)Bi«ca  to  KOun.-'JutaL    {Sb^^IV 

^P^^mollb.  and    was    liiiulied    in   tva  I  and  some  oriliciD  have  been  attributed     I 
^^jMra.   It  has  two  vonvcDtual  churches,    to    Giolln.      Buliliid    the    sItHr,    the     1 
piled  one  Qverllie  other;  or,  if  we  in-    frocoea  Toiniingthe  [lecorations  7nuiid      I 
cluile  tllI^    lubterrsneBD    church    en-    the  windoT  are  attributed  to  Givnta      I 
eavated   ta  leeeivt:    tlie   body    uf  St.    da  Pita.      Ill   the  aneles  of  Die  nave 
Francis,  tliuir  nuiubcr  may  be  Wii  to  '  arc  Gothic  galleries,  which  appanc  to 
be  Arti.     The  Ciennan  architect  irtui    liavc  otigiiiBlJy  been  carried  round  the 
MM  by   the   emperor  Frederick    II.    oave.      Id  the  choir  are  102  ^eats,  the 
ID  Fra  Elia,  the  general  of  the  ordcri    K-hoI*  of  whioh  were  inlaid  with  ex- 
and  hence  these  buildings,  ea  one  of ,  traordinary  facility  of  style  by  a  monk 
tbeeKrliesteiitinplei  where  the  foreign  I  of  the  ciHivcnt,  FraDomenico  di  8bd 
tDtroduclion    of    the    Gotliio    can  be    Se»eriiio,  at  the  expense  of  Fnmcesoo 
established,  have  a  peculiar  taluc  in    Sansoai,  the  general  of  the  order,  at 
the  hUtory  of  architeelure.  the  end  of  the  flfteenlh  century.    Tha 

Tlie  first  object  which  engages  at-  campanile  of  this  church  is  it  massiia 
tention  is  tbe  eutronce,  consisting  of  a  pile,  with  italrs  a  coniom,  which  thoaa 
fine  pointed  arch  di»ided  info  two  who  are  desirous  of  enjoying  the  view 
doorwayi;  above  it  ii  a  wheel  window  from  tlie  summit  will  be  glad  to  n 
richly    worked    in    red     and    vliite    with, 

marble,  of  wbtch  the  church  is  cbieHy  I      Under  the  portico  leading  lo 
built  in  the  tessdlated  style.  I  La}eer  or  mddk  ClivTch,  is  a  paiul 

The  Upptr  CAurcAisa  fine  and  un-  oC  the  Virgin,  St.  Francis,  and  othra 
mutilated  speeimen  uf  Guthiu,  with  a  |  Saints,  attributed  U>  Lo  Spagna-  On 
pentagons!  cbair,  and  lancet  windows  ,  descending  into  this  church,  it  has  a 
filled  with  painted  glas-i  of  the  richest  |  gloomy  and  low  appearance ;  hut  it 
colours,  executed,  at  the  order  of  Si»-  contains  treasures  enough  to  justify 
tU5  IV.,  by  Fra  Francesco  di  Terra-  [  the  title  of  museum.  The  four  tri- 
novn  in  14TG,  and  by  Lodovico  da  angular  compiirtmenls  of  the  vault 
Udine  in  H85.  The  roof  is  painted  .  are  ocoupied  with  largo,  paintings  by 
by  Cimabur,  the  Knniua  of  painting,  GiaOo,  in  which  the  groat  painter  has 
u  Lanii  calls  him.  It  consists  of '  represented  the  three  principal  vtr- 
five  compartments,  tliree  of  which  ate  |  lues  practised  by  St.  Francis,  namely, 
dmftmented  with  figures,  aud  two  :  Poverty.  Chastity,  and  Obedienoe,  and 
with  gold  stars  on  a  blue  ground,  his  glorification.  Tiiey  are  by  fat  the 
Tbe  best  preserved  painting  on  the  finest  frescoes  of  Giotto  at  Assisi,  and 
roof  is  that  representing  the  ftnir  are  interesting  as  showing  the  iiifiu- 
Doetors  of  the  Church  ;  the  four  '  enee  exercised  upon  him  by  the  alie- 
£vangclist«  over  the  choir  have  almost  goricaldescriptionsof  his  friend  Dante, 
disappeared,  but  the  medallions,  with  The  first  virtue.  Poverty,  shows  tbts 
figures  of  Christ,  tbe  Madonna,  John  in  a  striking  manner  ;  Poverty  ap- 
tbe  Baptist,  and  St.  Francis,  with  the   pears  as  a  woman  standing  among 

which  sutround  them,  arc  still  trace-   to  SL  Ftaocis.   In  theseoond,  Chastity 
able.      On  the  iippet  portion  of  the  .  is  represented  ns  a  young  femslo  sit-  . 
walls  of  tliis  nave  is  a  series  of  paint-    ting  in  a  strong  fortress,  to  which  St. 
iiigs  by  CimJmt,  representing  various    Francis  is  leading  several  monka,  Gic. 
events  of  tbe    Old    and  New    Tes-    In  the  third,  Obedience  is  represented 

MJament,  from  the  Creation  to  tbu  with  a  yoke,  but  wrapped  up  in  alle- 
fiegcenl  from  the  Ciossv  The  lower  gorical  emblems  wbicli  it  is  diflicult 
kprtion  of  the  walls  represents  in  to  comprehend.  In  the  fourth,  St. 
Ewenty-eight  compartments  the  d>£-  Francis  is  seated  on  a  Ihvone  holding 
%K'>t  areata  oeilie  ]\f a  of  St.  Francis ;  the  cross  and  the  rules  of  tbe  order,. 
iey  bene  sufficient  evidence  of  being  \«bile  torts  ot  an¥,e\s  sins  1"'^  praises. 
the  work   of  the  school  of  Cimabue!,\ln  fbe  otoBa-MAe  w  t\ui  tc!\iinws\ 


Papal  States,']  route  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Assist.     267 


Cniciiixion,  by  Pietro  CavaUtntt  the 
pupil  of  Giotto,  admired  by  Michael 
Angelo    for    its    grandeur.     It    was 
painted  for  Walter  de  Brienne,  duke 
of  Athens,  during  his  temporary  ele- 
Tation   as  captain  of  the    Florentine 
republic,   in    1342.       It  is  the  finest 
work   extant    by    this    master;    the 
afflicted  angels  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  composition,  and  the   groups  of 
horsemen,  soldiers,  &c.,  in  the  lower 
portion,   are  full  of  expression   and 
feeling.      The  portrait  of  Cavallini, 
with  a  cap  on  his  head  and  his  hands 
clasped  in  adoration,  is  below  it.     In 
the  southern  transept  are  several  paint- 
ings attributed   to    Puecio  Capanna, 
another  scholar  of  Giotto;  they  repre- 
sent the  Last  Supper,  the  Capture  of 
Christ,  the  Flagellation,  and  Christ 
bearing  the  Cross  ;  on  the  wall,  by  the 
same  painter,  are  the  Deposition  from 
the  Cross,  the  Entombment,  the  Re- 
surrection, and   the    St    Francis  re- 
ceiving the  Stigmata.     In  the  other 
transept  arc  the  Massacre  of  the  Inno* 
cents,  by  Taddeo  Gaddi,  said  to  have 
been  admired  by  Raphael ;    and  va- 
rious events  in  the  Life  of  the  Virgin, 
the  Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  the 
Nativity,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  and 
the  Flight  out  of  Egj-pt,  all  of  which  are 
attributed  to  Giovanni  da  MelanOj  the 
pupil  of  Taddeo  Gaddi,  who  flourished 
about  1365.     The  chapel  of  S.  Lodo- 
vico,  or  of  St.  Louis  king  of  France, 
sometimes  called  also  the  chapel  of  S. 
Stefano,  has  a  vault  painted  by  Adone 
Doni,  and  by  Andrea  di  Luigi,  or  V  In-  \ 
gtffno,  the  able  pupil  of  Perugino.  The  | 
four  Prophets  and  the  four  Sibyls,  arc  ' 
by  L*  In  geff  no  J  niuX  are  perhaps  to  be  con- 
sidered his  finest  works  ;  in  the  **  Dis. 
puta,*'  Adone  Doni  has  introduced  his 
own  portrait  as  an  Old  3Ian.     The 
graceful  and  expressive  altarpiece  re- 
presenting the    Madonna  and    Cliild 
throned,  with  three  saints  on  each  side, 
is  by  Lo  Spagna,  the  celebrated  scholar 
of  Perugino.  The  chapel  of  S.  Antonio 
di  Padova,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
dukes  of  VfJjino,  was  originally  co- 
verod  with  the  works  of  GioUinOf  but, 


the  roof  having  fallen  in,  they  were  de- 
stroyed, and  replaced  by  the  present 
frescoes  by  Cesare  Sermei,  an  artist  of 
Orvieto,  at  the  close  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  '  The  church  still  preserves, 
however,  an  example  of  Giottino^^ 
the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin.  The 
chapel  of  Sta.  Bonaventura,  or  of  Sta. 
Maria  Maddalena,  is  rich  in  frescoes 
representing  the  Life  of  the  Magda- 
len by  Buffahnacco.  The  chapel  of  S. 
Martino  has  a  vault  covered  with  fres- 
coes, attributed  by  some  to  Giotto  (?), 
by  others,  with  more  probability,  to 
Simone  Memini.  ITie  chapel  of  the  SS. 
Crocijisso  was  built  in  J  354,  by  the 
celebrated  Cardinal  Albornoz,  who  is 
said  to  be  buried  near  it,  the  body 
having  been  brought  hither  from  Vi- 
terbo,  where  he  died  in  1367.  Its 
paintings  are  supposed  to  be  by  Pace 
da  Faenza,  a  scholar  of  Giotto.  Va- 
sari  says  that  this  chapel  was  painted 
by  Buffalmacco,  and  that  he  was  libe« 
rally  rewarded  by  the  cardinal;  the 
value  of  this  statement  will  be  shown 
by  the  simple  fact  that  Buffalmacco, 
whose  death  Vasari  himself  places  in 
1340,  died  fourteen  years  before  the 
chapel  was  founded.  The  chapel  of 
S.  Antonio  Abate,  originally  painted 
by  Pace  da  Faenza,  has  suffered 
greatly  from  the  damp ;  its  frescoes 
have  been  whitewashed  over.  It  con- 
tains two  sepulchral  monuments  of 
the  family  of  Blasco,  dukes  of  Spo- 
Icto,  with  an  epitaph  in  Latin  hex- 
ameters. Near  the  entrance  to  the 
church,  on  the  right  hand,  is  a  monu- 
ment bearing  the  arms  of  the  Cerchi 
family  of  Florence,  and  upon  it  is  a 
porphyry  vase,  said  to  have  been  a  pre- 
sent from  Hecuba  di  Lusignano,  the 
reputed  queen  of  Cyprus,  who  has 
been  supposed  to  be  buried  near  it  in 
a  magnificent  mausoleum  by  Fuccio 
Fiorentino,  in  1240.  'Hi ere  appears, 
however,  to  be  great  obscurity  about 
this  tomb ;  the  crowned  head  is  a 
sufficient  indication  of  royalty,  but 
the  attitude  of  the  sitting  statue  is 
little  lu  Rccotdaiwt^  V\\\\  Kviwvvcv\w^ 
grace  ox  t\\c  Oix^mV^  cA  \sl  v^\^^^-  ^"^ 
has  bceiv  sw^^^sVt^  \\v^\.  ^^-  '^^  ^'=^^' 


rrolMbly  Ihnl  of  Giomimi  de"  Conli 
di  IlTcRne,  king  of  Jennalem  in  tlie 
lime  of  St.  Francis  who  entered  tlie 
order  uul  died  in  I33T  -,  *nd  thai  liia 
dftugliler  I^lana  de  LusignaTi^  piinceBs 
of  Anlioch,  siiter  of  Yolacda,  wiru  of 
the  emperor  Frcdericli  II.,  erected 
this  monument  to  hit  memory.  The 
walls  neBr  it  are  covered  viLh  the 
rcmsinB  of  frescoes,  said  Co  be  pninted 
by  Greek  attisU.  In  the  meristy  is  a 
Gurioui  poilrail  of  Si.  Francii,  attri- 
buted to  Gimita  da  Fiia.  Consider- 
able speculatiuii  hm  been  exciled  in 
tvgnrd  to  the  precise  spot  in  this 
church  where  the  illiutrious  Chitie- 
line  general  of  the  thirteenth  ceotuj-y, 
Guido  di  Montefcliro,  was  buried, 
Some  doubt,  indeed,  exists  whether 
the  body  was  not  removed  from  Assisi 
by  his  son  FotteriKO-  After  a  bril- 
liiint  oareer  of  military  glory,  this 
celebrated  captnin,  cbarmed  by  the 
enthuMSam  of  Sl  Francis,  retired  to 
Aisiii  and  assumed  tlie  tows  and 
habit  oF  the  new  order.  Prom  tbis 
seclusion  he  was  summoned  to  Auagni 
by  Boniiicc  VI 1 1..  who  was  so  anxious 
to  have  the  adrantage  of  his  couiioils 
" luseof 


E  Vj-'-'TixtBxJHX  TO  xouAr~~AuitL    {Seet.  t. 


acknowledged  by  a  deputation  oFcar- 
iliiials  and  prelates.  It  is  supported 
by  the  solid  rock,  which  was  left  stand- 
ing for  the  jiuipote,  while  the  ehurch 
was  escalated  around  it.  The  whole 
is  inclDsed  by  an  Iron  palimde;  but 
llie  general  air  of  the  mausoleum 
(oo  modem,  and  perhaps  too  obtni- 


Colon 


mised  h 


nary  indulgence  if 
reducing  Falestrina,  the  feudal  slrong- 
hold  of  thai  noble  family.  Guido 
atipulaled  for  a  more  express  ahsolu- 
lion  for  any  crime  he  might  commit  in 
gWiag  this  advice,  and  then  suggested 
the  perfidious  policy  of  promising 
mueii  and  performing  little: 

ungjupTouis.acon  o.ttei.  "J^^"-^^., 

After  this  Guido  retired  again  to  this 
eouvent.snddiedhereiniags.  Dante 
has  punished  him  for  this  treason  by 
putting  him  in  the  Interno,  because 
■  '  i  absolution  preceded  hi 


and  < 
church 

roek,W 


s  therefore  null     Below  tlii 


loinb. 

The  convent  and  its  cloisters 
scarcely  less  remarkable  than  tha 
church.  A  series  of  heads  of  eminent 
Fnmciseans  by  Ailane  Doai  presents 
some  interesting  studies ;  and  in  the 
refectory  is  a  fine  painting  of  the  Last 
Supper,  by  Sollmaie. 

The  church  of  Sla.  Chiara,  bnUt  by 
Fra  Filippo  da  Campello,  the  pupil  of 
Jacopn  da  Lapo,  in  )2j3,  a  few  years 
only  after  the  death  of  the  saint,  still 
retains  its  fine  wheel  window;  but 
the  greater  part  of  the  ancient  church, 
which  was  in  the  Gothic  of  the  Ihir- 
teenlh  century,  and  painted  internally 
by  Giotto,  has  been  replaced  by  mo- 
deru  innovations.  It  is  interesting, 
however,    as   containing  the  body  of 

the  celebrated  maiden  whom  tlie  en- 
tliusiasm  of  St.  Francis  induced  to 
renounce  her  bmily  and  her  riches, 
and  whose  hair  he  cut  oiT  with  his  own 
hand.      She  is  buried  under  the  high 


The  E 


body  of  SU  Francis,  which  was  dis- 
eorered  here  in  December,  1818,  and 
again  deposited  in  its  sepulchre  of 
'rarcrline,  aHer  il  had  been  foraaaWj- 


some  frescoes  illustialing  the  life  of 
St.  CTara,  attributed  to  Giollo,  hut 
probably  executed  by  his  able  imi- 
tator Giottino. 

The  CutAediYi;,  dedicated  to  St.  Ru- 
fimi'i,  its  first  bishop,  under  Fabian  I., 
dales  from  the  early  part  of  the  twelfth 
century,and its cryptdates from  lOSB; 
it  VBs  modernised  by  Galeasso  Alessi 
in  the  sixteenth  century,  but  retains  its 
Gothic  front.  An  ancient  marble  sar- 
cophagus serres  as  the  high  allar.  The 
Pieta,  which  Vasari  says  was  pninted 
for  this  church  by  Nimi!d  Aliatno,  has 
been  destroyed. 

The  church  called  the  Ckifia  Nvaea 
is  remarkable  as  occupying  the  site  of 
the  house  in  which  SL  Francis  was 
tatn.    Tlie  av"<™«'!s'*'"  shown  in 


■s  i3*.1 


Papal  States^]  route  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Spello.    269 


the  belief  that  his  devotion  and  his 
charities  were  acts  of  madness. 

In  the  Piazra  is  the  magnificent 
portico  of  the  ancient  Temph  of  Mi- 
nerva ;  it  consists  of  six  fluted  columns 
of  travertine  and  a  pediment,  beneath 
which  some  fragments  of  antiquity  and 
inscriptions  have  been  collected  for 
preservation.  The  ruin  has  been  at- 
tached to  a  church,  to  which  it  has  given 
the  name  of  Sta.  Maria  della  Minerva. 

The  chapel  of  the  confraternita  of 
Sta,  Caterina  is  remarkable  for  the 
remains  of  paintings  on  its  exterior  by 
Martinelio  (1422),  and  in  the  interior 
for  the  works  of  Matteo  da  Gualdo 
(1468),  and  Pietro  Antonio  da  Fuligno, 

The  church  of  S,  Pietro  deserves 
mention  among  the  architectural  re- 
mains of  Assisi,  for  the  three  wheel 
windows  which  still  remain  of  its  ori-  ' 
ginal  and  imposing  Gothic.  | 

At  the  Convent  of  S.  Damiano  are 

t 

preserved  the  relics  of  St  Clara; 
within  its  walls  the  church  tradition 
states  that  she  performed  many  of  her 
miracles.  In  the  dormitory  is  a  door 
now  walled  up,  where  she  is  said  to 
have  repulsed  the  Saracens,  who  were 
on  the  point  of  scaling  the  convent. 

Assisi,  independently  of  the  interest 
it  derives  from  St.  Francis,  is  remark-  | 
able  as  the  birthplace  of  Metastasio. 
It  has  been  the  scat  of  a  bishopric  since 
A.D.  240.  The  population,  by  the 
returns  of  1833,  was  5900. 

The  great  fair  of  Assisi  begins  on  the 
21st  July  and  ends  on  the  1st  August, 
daring  which  time  the  indulgences 
granted  draw  people  from  all  parts  of 
Catholic  Europe.  Another  fair  takes 
place  on  the  4th  October,  at  the  festival 
of  St.  Francis. 

Assisi  has  some  celebrity  for  its 
manufactory  of  needles  and  iron  files. 
The  annual  quantity  of  needles  it  pro- 
duces is  about  4000  lbs. 

A  new  branch  road  in  excellent  con- 
dition leads  from  Assisi  into  the  high 
Roman  road  near  Spello,  without  re- 
turning to  Sta.  Maria  degli  Angeli. 
The  distance  to  Foli^fio  is  somewhat 
lest  thmn  ten  miles.  Travellers  from 
Borne  to  FJoreaee  should  make  at  Fo- 


ligno  the  arrangements  recommended 
in  a  previous  page  for  seeing  Assisi, 
They  may  thus  diverge  frojn  the  high 
road  at  Spello,  and  rejoin  their  travel- 
ling carriage  at  Gli  Angeli.  By 
competent  bargaining,  a  good  and  fast 
one-horse  conveyance  may  be  had  for 
35  pauls  and  5  pauls  buonamano. 

Leaving  Sta,  Maria  degli  Angeli, 
the  road  traverses  the  plain  to  Foligno, 
passing  on  the  left  hand  the  ancient 
town  of  Spello,  erroneously  considered 
the  birthplace  of  Propertius,  who  tells 
us  himself  that  he  was  born  at  Mevania, 
as  will  be  seen  further  on. 

Sp^lo  (the  C^olonia  Julia  I^ispellum 
of  the  Romans),  built  on  the  red 
Apennine  limestone.  The  road  passes 
round  the  walls  of  the  town.  By  the 
side  of  an  ancient  gate,  before  arriving 
at  the  modem  entrance  to  the  town,  is 
an  inscription  recording  the  fabulous 
exploits  of  Orlando.  The  Roman 
gate  surmounted  by  three  figures  is 
well  preserved,  and  is  still  called  the 
Porta  Veneris.  The  streets  of  Spello 
are  very  narrow  and  irregular,  and  are 
mostly  paved  with  brick.  The  Gothic 
Cathedral  of  S.  M.  Maggiore  contains 
two  companion  frescoes  by  Perugino^ 
a  Piet4,  with  his  name  and  the  date 
1521,  and  the  Madonna  and  Child 
with  two  saints,  but  both  show  symp- 
toms of  the  decline  which  marked  his 
latter  years.  In  a  chapel  on  the  left 
are  the  three  large  frescoes  by  Pintu* 
ricchio,  representing  the  Annunciation, 
a  very  beautiful  painting,  with  the 
painter's  portrait  looking  from  a  win- 
dow, and  his  name  ;  the  Nativity, 
with  various  incidents,  such  as  the 
approach  of  the  Magi,  and  a  fine 
landscape ;  Christ  disputing  with  the 
Doctors,  a  series  of  fine  groups  with 
highly  finished  heads.  On  the  right 
of  the  entrance  is  a  Roman  tomb  with 
bas-rcliefii  representing  an  equestrian 
figure  and  an  inscription;  it  is  now 
used  as  a  vase  for  holy  water.  An 
Englishman  is  said  to  \\vtv^  Q>^«£t^^  v^ 
buy  it  foT  a&  iii>i!(^  %o\\  ^».  vv.'w^v^^ 
contain.     'IVve  c>a\xTcYv  oK  s;.  ¥ratvt«*M 


KOvrS  27.~Fi.o(iEKC8  TO  noafi. — FoU0ia.    ['fe^ct.  K 


1  Uxgi  illaipiete  liy  Piata- 

■JiiD,  nprMunling  tbe  Madonna  anci 
puld  tbnmeU.  wilii  several  uints  in  \ 
II.  inA  St.  Julin  at  tlie  fiwl  of 
,N  throne  wriclng  the  "  Ecce  ^giius" 
[iM.lliClibUin  oTliucrost:  a  cliarmbg 
OpaipasUion ;  tlie  St.  Jaha  lias  been 
allribuled  to  ILaphael.  A  biglily 
inlereiling  letter  frum  GDtitile  Bag' 
lioni,  lard  of  IVugia,  (a  the  painter, 
I  been  whinuically  introduced  by 
I  DodeT  Ilia  Ihrone.  Among  the 
'tquitiM  of  Spello,  a  houw  still 
ta  tha  uame  of  tho  "  Cau  ili  Pro- 
W  >nd  glvH  iwnie  to  the  atreei : 
ilj(?)of  tlie  poet ' 


tlicrt  a 

th<  Via  di^lr  Arco,  wiili 

*.  Divi ;  it  u  said  by  Calindri  ta  have 

beet)  dedienled  to  tbe  ein]ieior  Marcna 

Opillus    ftlBcrioua.      At  the    biglieat 

ptmil  of  ihB  town  '  ■       .   . 


whole  plain  of  the  CliEumniu,  the 
tova  at  Foligoo,  the  uppiM'  valley  of 
tbe  Tiber,  tlic  city  of  Perugia,  the 
etclesiaitical  buildings  of  Asaisi,  aiul 
the  tertiary  chain  whitb  is  separated 
from  that  on  which  Pertigin  is  sltuotiNl 
by  the  valley  in  vliicli  the  Tiber 
winds  its  iray  Into  tlie  plain. 

Before  ~  "  '     ~ 


liich  it 


llfoniaHo  (Zulu.-  Ira  Mori,  Crandi 
^         I,  Ia  Poila,  all    indilfLTent)! 
It  Fulginium.  a  place  orKome 

dorae;  of  Umbrian  cities.  During  the 

mldillb  Bgeii   it   iong   inaintatncd    its 

indepeiideuoe,  but  was  at  last  reduced 

by  its  more  powerful  ueigbboma )  in 

1439   it    was    inooqiorated    witb   the 

States  of  the  Church  Ejy  Card.  Vitel- 

leschi  on  tlie  eitlnction  of  Ihe   Friaci 

limily.     It  is  an   active  and  indui- 

rrious  C'pixcopal  town  of  8000  inlialiit- 

in's,     and     has     a     high     reputati 

'iiiighout   the    States  for   it!  cati 

"lanulhctures    of  woollens,  par 


tie,  y 

eh-1 


meiit,  and  wax  cNudlea.  t'oligno  and 
the  iieiglibouring  towns  were  aubject 
to  frequent  earthquakes  for  many 
years  prior  to  1831,  end  it  was  a  rare 
occurrence  for  three  months  lo  piaa 
witboutoue.  In  1831, bowever,  they 
lost  their  desultory  and  Docasjoniil 
character,  and  a  violent  series  of  ahocka 
occurred  which  spread  devsstatioti 
and  misery  throughout  the  protince. 
The  first,  fortunately,  look  place  in 
tbe  day  time,  and  did  Little  injury^ 
but  the  second  ruined  several  edUiceii 
hy  tbe  iidl  of  which  upwards  of  70 
persona  lost  their  lives  in  Foligno  and 
Spello,  and  many  buildings  still  be*i' 
eiiilenceoftiieirravages.  From  1831 
tbe  town  rciiiained  free  from  tbeir 
visitations  until  October,  18.^9,  when 
some  undulntaty  shoclis  were  felt,  but 
fottunalcly  without  such  serious  con- 
sequences as  attended  tliosc  of  1S31. 
It  is  remarkable  tliat  Ihe  townswbich 
suffered  most  from  the  eanhquakea  of 
these  years  aie  on  allnvinl  deposit^ 
while  thuse  on  the  solid  calcareous 
roclt.  as  Spolelo,  Assiai,  and  Perugia, 
sufTeted  cumpatativciy  little.  TTie 
CaUitdrat,  dedicated  to  SL  Felician, 
has  preserved  its  Gothic  Irnnt  and 
pointed  doorway  of  the  Blleenlh  cen- 
tury, witb  tbe  two  bans  of  red  marble; 
the  interior  has  been  mademised, 
and  has  a  Baldaechino  of  gilt  wood 

St.  I'ettr's.  The  Church  of  B.  Doaie- 
nico  has  a  Gothic  B^-ade.  Tbe  Cburcfa 
of  the  Coiitescc  Convent,  witli  a  cUpola 
hy  liramBute,  was  remarkable  ia 
former  days  for  the  celebrated  pietuTe 
by  Uaphsel  called,  from  the  town.  t)w< 
"  Madonna  di  Foligno,"  and  now  ollB 
of  tbe  treasures  of  the  Vatican,  Hie 
chureb  contains  a  Madonna  said  to  lie 
by  Fervghmtr),  and  a  picture  attri- 
buted to  Lodmim  Carotci,  represent- 
ing our  Saviour  discovering  himself 
lo  bis  disciples  by  the  breaking  of 
bread.  1'bc  Churcii  of  S.  ffieceid 
preserves  a  beautiful  ullarpiece  bf 
Nicald  jllHiino,  a  lutive  of  this  town, 
wlucVi  wttK  taV™  to  Paris;  and  there 
I  are  ottiet  tcmaina  ol  yne  satoe-H 
1.  be  Waeefl,  iti  some  cS  lint 
chuic\ies.     Tlie  -e^Aoiio  CQcvo-tnie- 


Papal  Staies.'}  R.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — Clitumnus.    271 


a  fine  building  recently  constructed  in 
the  Ionic  style.  The  Corse,  called  the 
Canopia,  affords  an  agreeable  walk  for 
the  citizens  along  the  ancient  walls. 

A  few  miles  west  of  Foligno,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Topino  and  the  Tinia, 
is  Bevagna,  which  still  retains  the 
traces  of  its  ancient  name  Merania, 
celebrated  by  the  Latin  poets  for  the 
richness  of  its  pastures,  and  still  fa- 
mous  for  the  finest  breed  of  white 
cattle.  *'  Strabo  mentions  Mevania  as 
one  of  the  most  considerable  towns  of 
Umbria.  Here  Vitellius  took  post  as 
if  determined  to  make  a  last  stand  for 
the  empire  against  Vespasian,  but  soon 
after  withdrew  his  forces.  If  its  walls, 
as  Pliny  says,  were  of  brick,  it  could  not 
be  capable  of  much  resistance.  This 
city  is  further  memorable  as  the  birth- 
place of  Propertius,  a  fact  of  which 
he  himself  informs  us." — Dr,  Cramer, 

On  the  hill  above  Bevagna  (6  miles 
distant)  is  the  little  town  f^ Moniefaico, 
remarkable  for  two  pictures  by  Be- 
nozzo  Gozzcli;  they  are  in  the  churches 
of  S.  Fortunato  and  S.  Francesco. 

The  road  from  Perugia  falls  into 
the  Flaminian  Way  at  Fuligno  (Route 
16).  Another  excellent  road  leads  to 
Ancona,  by  Tolentino,  Macerata,  and 
Loreto.  (  Route  15.)  Another  leads 
by  the  Furlo  Pass  to  Fano.  (  Route  16.) 

On  leaving  Foligno  for  Rome,  we 
enter  the  Via  Flaminia,  and  follow  it 
during  the  remainder  of  the  journey. 
After  passing  S.  Eraclio  we  cross  the 
boundary  which  separates  the  Delaga- 
tion  of  Perugia  from  that  of  Spoleto. 

The  road  soon  enters  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Clitumnus,  '*  the  fame  of 
which," says  Dr.  Cramer,  "is  united, by 
the  poetry  of  Virgil,  with  the  triumphs 
of  Rome  and  the  Capitol  itself:  " 

"  Hinc  albi,   Gitumnc,  greges,  ct  maxima 

taurus 
Victima,  sa?pc  tuo  perfusi  fluminc  sacro, 
lloroanog  au  tcmpla  deCkm  tluxcre  trium- 

phoi."  GcorK-t  II.  146. 

About   midway    between    Foligno 

and  Lc  Vcne,  picturesquely  placed  on 

a  mountain  on  the  left,  is  tlie  little 

town  of  Trevi\  the  Trebi'a  of  Pliny. 

Shortly  before  arriving  at  Le  Venc* 


on"  the   right,   is   the   small   ancient 
temple  supposed  to  be  the   one  de- 
scribed by  Pliny  as  dedicated  to  the 
river-god      Clitumnus.       The    road 
passes  at   the   back   of   the   temple, 
which  travellers  will  do  well  to  bear 
in  mind,  as  they  may  otherwise  pass 
without  noticing  it.     The  river  which 
rises  near  it  is  still  called  the  Clittmno, 
There  are,  however,  some  points  con- 
nected with  the   authenticity  of  the 
;  temple  which  require  to  be  noticed; 
j  The    temple    itself   is  described  by 
I  Pliny  as  being  an  ancient  edifice  in 
his  day;  and  antiquaries  and  archi- 
tects agree  in  regarding  the  present 
building  as  much  more  recent,  bear- 
ing evidence  of  the  corruption  of  art, 
and  probably  not  more  ancient  than 
the  time  of  Constantine.     Sir  John 
Hobhouse  has  endeavoured  to  meet 
some   of  the   objections   by  showing 
that,  when  the  temple  was  converted 
into  a  chapel,   the*  interior  was  mo- 
dernised.   **  The  temple,"  says  a  good 
authority  on  such  points,  **  can  hardly 
'.  be  that  structure  which  the  younger 
I  Piiny  describes  as  ancient  even  in  his 
,  time ;    for,   instead  of  columns  be- 
scratched  with   the   nonsense   of   an 
albXim,  here  are  columns  coupled  in 
'  the  middle  of  the  front  with  those  on 
the  antes,  a  thing  not  found  in  any 
'  classical    antiquity ;    here   are   spiral 
columns,    which,   so   far   from  being 
'characters  of   early  art,  are  corrup- 
tions of  its  decline." — Forsyth. 

In  spite  of  these  difficulties,  the 

existing    building    may   perhaps    be 

considered  to   mark  the  site  of  the 

temple  of  Pliny ;    and  English  tra- 

,  vellers  will  doubtless  give  due  weight 

to  the  tradition  which  has  been  ac- 

jcepted   and    celebrated    by    Dryden, 

I  Addison,    and   Byron.      The  temple 

I  is  now  used  as  a  chapel  dedicated  to 

I  S.  Salvadore. 

; "  But   thou,   Clitumnus !   in   thy  sweetest 
wave 

I     Of  the  most  living  crystal  that  was  c*er 
1'he  haunt  of  river  nymph,  to  gaie  and  lave 
Her  limbs  where  nothing  hid  IhcrcDi^  \!ttRis\ 

I        dost  rear 

!     Thy  grauv  Yraivkt  ^Yvw^wv  V\v^  \sKCi6.-^\\\v.* 

»tect  ,       ..^.^^^ 

I     Orazet  -,  the  \»ut«i!t  godi  oK  %wSX^  ^«x«t% . 


w 


KOVTT  27.— rtOBEJJCK  TO  noMK. — Spoldo.  ^Sect.  t, 


ioibIE  and  d«ilutv  jtroporlltHi,  hcejiK 


Bow'?' 


*SSBi 


Clllldc  HarM. 


1  Lc  Vei 
to  tills  spot 
luiunus;  it  iuucs  in  one  IkmI;  Train 

durable!  fctream  o(  pure  crystal  Vi 
About  half  way   lo   Spolvlo,    in 
hamlet  of    S.    Giacoma,   ia  a  ch 
containing  in  Ihc  apsis  sovae  beau 
&eKotH   by   Lo    Spai/na.       Belo^ 
the  poctrait  of  the  Sjiut  aatl  tvo  of 
hii   miracles ;    above,    Ihe   iaioucite 
CDronation   of  the 
IS2S.     The  chapel  on  \\ie  right  has 
been   repainted,   but  all  the  rest 
"rably  pi 


The 
Iremely  b 


lutifiiL 


•    Spaleti 


It  "oHucsarich 
.  _  lent  to  the  piclu- 
a»eller,  in  its  toivers,  castles, 
■nu  loreat  boclcground ;  and  few 
plans  afford  so  nisiiy  grand  and 
beautiful  objects  for  the  sketch-book  ; 
itg  old  fortress,  and  its  lati  aqueduct, 
one  of  the  lol\iest  liiiawn,  spanning  a 
ravine  in  wliieh  it  is  ■  singularly  line 
object  »ben  teen  from  the  various 
buights,  tnoke  up,  with  the  beautiful 
country  around  them,  some  of  (he 
very  finest  landscapes  in  uaturc." 
Brochtdan. 

1    Stoleto  {/iiB,  La  Posta,  indif- 
ferent and  exorbitant  in  its  charges.) 
Tliis  ancient  city  is  the  capital  of  the 
fifth  Delegation  of  the   I'apal   Sutcs, 
embracing  a  superficial  cstent  of  150 
square  leagues,  and  a  population  of 
1  le.TOO  soul*.     The  city  itself,  by  the 
retutntof  1833.  has  a  population  of 
eooo.      It    is    the   sent   of    an    «r:^b- 
bishopHe  for  tbe  united    dioceses  of 
SpoJi-ta,     Beragiia,    and    Trevi ;    its 
•ishopric  is  as  aucieot  as  the  tii 


St.  Peler,  the  first  bishop  being  St. 
Briiio,  i.  D.  50.  ITie  three  dioceses 
were  erected  into  an  archbishiqiric  by 
Pope  Plus  VII.  in  1B:27.  Spolelo 
has  tbe  second  niauufaetory  of  wool- 
lens in  the  Fapnl  Stales,  being  next 
in  importBDce  to  that  of  Ilonic. 

Spolelo  was  the '  SpotaUm  of  tbe 
Romans,  '*  colonised  a.  it.  r.  £1S- 
Twenty-five  years  afterwards  it  with- 
stood, according  to  Livy,  the  attack 
of  Hannibal,  who  was  on  his  ma 
through  Umhria,  after  the  battle  of 
Thrasimene.  This  resistance  had  tbe 
efltot  of  checking  (lie  advance 
the  Cnrthagiiiian  general  towards 
Rome,  and  compelled  him  lo  draw 
his  forces  into   Ficenum.      Il   should 


.Dofth 


Spolelo,  l>ul  expressly  si 
was  not  HannilMl's 
proach  Romeal  that  lime,  but  to  lead 
his  army  to  Ihe  sea-coasL  Spoletiun 
appears  to  have  ranked  high  among 
the  municipal  cities  of  Italy,  but  ii 
BulTered  severely  tinin  proscription  in 
the  civil  wars  of  Marius  and  Syll*.' — 

Uuriug    the    middle  ages    Spolelo 

Lombard  States  which  established  a 
duchy  wilh  a  kind  of  independent 
sovereignty.  While  that  of  Bene 
which  set  the  first  example,  had  spread 
over  half  of  the  present  kingdon 
Naples,  Spolelo  included  within  her 
territory  nearly  tbe  wliole  of  Umbria. 
Afler  the  overthrow  of  the  \m\ 
bingdom  by  Charlemagne,  the  dukes 
of  Spoleto,  like  tlie  other  petty  princes 
uf  Italy,  became  vassals  of  the  empire; 


but 


t   Ion 


befori 


they  ri 


\bout  I 


of,i 


iserted  their  independen 
-ciscd  their  ancient  Lomlfard  rights. 
of  HSdebrand,  tbe 
of  Tuscany  had  lie- 
]ueatnea  to  tne  Holy  See  her  ci- 
lensive  He^  of  the   March  of  Ancona 

;tanding  whicli,  Spolelo  continued  lo 

preserve    its    municipal   government, 

■  indeed  raaintamei"A«iffie«\.Mfc\Vi, 

t  ttie  popes  tooui  i> 


Lfio  a 


papal  Staies^  route  27. — florekce  to  BQME.^-^Spoleto.   273 


of  its  rights.  Among  the  casualties 
to  which  its  strong  position  and  in- 
dependent government  exposed  it  in  the 
middle  ages,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able was  its  siege  by  Frederick  Bar- 
barossa ;  the  citizens  sallied  from 
their  walls  and  gave  him  battle,  but 
they  fled  before  the  charge  of  the 
German  cavalry  :  the  town  was  given 
Vp  to  pillage  for  two  days,  and  a  large 
portion  of  it  perished  by  fire.  During 
the  events  which  followed  the  French 
revolution,  and  the  subsequent  inva- 
sion of  Italy,  Spoleto,  Perugia,  and 
the  other  neighbouring  towns,  were 
incorporated  with  the  Roman  or  H- 
berine  republic. 

Tlie  Cathedralf  dedicated  to  Sta. 
Maria  Assunta,  occupies  a  command- 
ing situation  :  it  dates  from  the  period 
of  its  Lombard  dukes,  and  still  retains 
many  vestiges  of  its  original  pointed 
architecture.  The  five  Gothic  arches 
of  the  fa9ade  are  supported  by  Gre- 
cian columns,  introduced,  it  is  said, 
from  the  design  of  Bramante,  when 
the  edifice  was  modernised.  The 
firieze  is  ornamented  with  griffins  and 
arabesques,  and  at  each  extremity  is  a 
stone  pulpit  facing  the  piazza.  Over 
the  portico  is  a  large  mosaic,  repre- 
senting  the  Saviour  throned  between 
the  Virgin  and  St.  John,  and  bearing 
the  name  of  the  painter,  SaUemus, 
with  the  date  1207,  a  work  of  great 
interest  in  the  history  of  the  revival. 
The  central  Gothic  window  is  filled 
with  painted  glass,  and  bears  the  sym- 
bols of  the  four  evangelists.  The  in- 
terior of  the  cathedral  is  also  interest- 
ing, though  modernised  in  ]  644  by  the 
cardinal  archbishop  of  the  Barberini 
family.  In  the  choir  are  the  interest- 
ing frescoes  of  Filippo  Lippi,  repre- 
senting the  Annunciation,  the  Nativity, 
the  Death  of  the  Virgin,  and  her 
Coronation,  but  they  have  suffered 
firom  time  and  restorations.  The 
chapel  on  the  left  of  the  choir  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  this  painter,  who 
died  here  in  1469,  from  the  eff*ects  of 
poison  administered  by  the  family  of 
a  noble  lad/,  Lucrezia  Bieti^  whose 
affhctioos  he  bad  won,  and  whom  lie 


had  carried  off*  from  the  convent  of 
Sta.  Margherita  at  Prato.     His  mo* 
nument  was  erected  by  Lorenzo  de' 
Medici,  after  an   ineffectual  attempt 
to  induce  the  magistrates  to  allow  him 
to  remove  the  ashes  of  Lippi  to  Flo« 
rence :    the  epitaph  was  written   by 
Politian.     Opposite  is  a  fine  monu* 
ment  to  one  of  the  Orsini  family  of 
Rome,     llie  only  other  painting  to 
be  noticed  in  this  cathedral  is  a  Ma- 
donna by  AnnihcJe  Caracci,  much  in* 
jured  by  recent  attempts  to  restore  it. 
In  one  of  the  lateral  chapels  are  some 
carved    arabesques    in    wood.      The 
chapel,  which  now  serves  as  a  baptis* 
tery,  is  beautifully  painted  in   firesco, 
with    subjects    from  the    history   of 
Adam  and  Eve,  by  Giacomo  SicilianOp 
in  the  manner  of  Ix)  Spagna.     The 
font  is  sculptured  with  bas-reliefs  of 
the    Life  of   Christ :    the   octagonal 
baptistery,    which   is  detached   from 
the  cathedral,  is  no  longer  used  for  it& 
original  purpose. 

The  Gothic  church  of  S.  Domemco- 
is  remarkable  for  a  fine  copy  of  the. 
Transfiguration,  which  the  inhabitants 
attribute  to  Giulio  Romano.  The  Go- 
thic church  of  S.  Giovanni  has  a  rich  ' 
door-way  of  the  sixteenth  century. 
The  collegiate  church  of  S,  Pietro^ 
outside  the  Roman  gnte,  is  worthy  of 
a  visit,  as  an  example  of  Lombard 
architecture ;  the  front  is  noticed  by 
Mr.  Hope  for  its  great  profusion  of 
sculpture. 

The  Palazzo  PuWico  coiitains  an  in- 
teresting fresco  by  Lo  Spagna,  formerly 
on  one  of  the  inner  walls  of  the 
citadel,  and  removed  here  for  better 
preservation. 

The  Piazza  della  Porta  Nuova  has  a 
small  Madonna,  with  a  blue  veil,  in 
fresco,  remarkable  for  its  excellent 
preservation  ;  it  was  painted  in  1502 
by  Crivelli,  a  native  artist.   " 

The  Citadel  should  be  visited  by 
every  traveller  who  wishes  to  ei\joy 
one  of  the  most  extensive  views  in 
Italy.  Permission  is  readily  granted^ 
on  appUcatioti,  b^  \\\^  ^Q»Tcv\cy»Xi^\Ck% 
officer,  ll  \a  a  ti\assvN<a  "WA^vcv^  ^'^'^^ 
rounded  w\\\\  a  fA.TOW%  xvnv^^xX.^  va^- 

V  5 


RTOTl!  5T;— iftOBBKCB  TO  HOltK.^I^JoftftK' -^^fect,  T. 


I.fccupic»n  picturesquE  nndcominand- 
tlfig  pusiliop,  irhich  completely  oycr- 
'  I  llle  lowii.  It  w«5  huiltby 'ITieo- 
__.  t  deMroyed  during  the  GotUic 
<Kr,  and  repaired  b;  Nan?!,  Ihe  suc- 
^moT  of  Beliaarias.  It  wb9  subse- 
Qaenllj  rebuilt  b;  Cardinal  Albaraai, 
— '■*  enlarged  by  Nicholas  V.  It  is 
u«d  ta  B  prison.  Aeeording  to 
etuma  poblished  by  Ihe  goieni- 
I  will  hohl  500  prisoncn,  who 
Tally  persons  conTictid  oiho- 
■ndfclonies,  polirica!  prisoQers 
Ung  nrely  sent  here.  F«v  periuiu 
oirBimprisonedMSpoleloare  con- 
sJ  tor  mote  than 20 years;  affording 


Mlall  cannon. 


ITierc  ] 
10  soldiei 


H  gamion 


dilions  lung  subseqaimtly  to  Ibe  I«m- 
biirJ  Innea,  and  its  EubMructionc,  and 
tlie  body  of  ibc  nine  picn,  Bre perhaps 
all  ihat  can  safely  be  regarded  as  be- 
longing to  tbe  Lombard  fauadalion. 
During  the  revolution  of  1849,  it  was 
partiolly  bruken  dovu  by  Garibaldi 
in  order  to  prevent  the  advance  of  Iha 
Austtians,  who  were  sopprwcd  to  be 
marching  against  him  irom  Ferngia. 
We  li>TE  already  staled  that  the  struc- 
ture serves  both  /or  on  aqueduct  and 
btidgi!.  The  water  which  supplies 
tbe  town  and  castle  is  carried 


Luco,  and  a 


iwer  level,  1 


I    Man 


frightful  elevafion  above  the  miley,  i« 
the  rood  over  which  vebiclcs  posst  it 
is  supplied  with  an  opeuing  and 
bencbn  in  the  middle  to  allow  the 
passenger  a  view  of  the  fine  scenery 
which  it  commands. 

The  Boman  antiquities  of  Spolelo 
contisl  of  tbe  arch  through  which  the 
street  is  carried,  called  the  Puiia  J^^ 
and  Parla  tTAnvibale,  frora  Ihe  local 
tradition  that  HanniUil  vas  repulsed 
ill  his  attcmiitloforce  it.  It  is  a  plain 
arch,  with  a  device  of  (he  middle  Ofiea, 
representing  a  lion  devouring  a  lamb. 

of  Roman  temples ;  that  of  the  Cron- 
Jaso  a  supposed  to  preserve  part  of  the 
walls  of  the  Temple  of  Concord;  in' 
tbat  of  S.  Andrea  tbc  Huted  marble 

said  to  have  belonged  to  a  temple  of 
Jupiter  1  and  in  that  of  F.  Gialiawt 
are  some  fragmenta  of  the  Temple  of 
Mra-).     Besides  these  there  are  some 


r  from  tbe 
■mely  grand,  com- 
iing  Ihe  whole  valley  of  the  Cli- 
tumnus,  the  Apennines  from  the  Pass 
„«f  Monte  Summa  to  tbe  high  peak 
>avo  8.  Angela  in  Vndo  and  Citla 
tt  Castdlo,  the  oitiiis  of  Perugia  and 
^[gno,  tbe  churches  and  eonreutt  of 
Haisi,  Spello,  Cantelfrauco,  and  snores 
iF  ViHagcs  scattered  upon  the  phiin. 
"  ong  Ihe  foundations  of  the  castle, 
-  the  city  gate,  some  (enmins  of 
»  polygonal  walls  are  bIIU  viiibla. 
'  The  Ji/utduct,  called  delle  Torre, 
CtOEsing  tl>e  deep  valley  which  sepa- 
rates the  almost  insulated  hill  on 
which  the  city  is  built  from  the  oppo- 
site mountun,  serves  both  as  an  aque- 
dtlct  and  a  bridge.  Callndri  gives  the 
hetghl  as  SI  metres  (about  3^3^  ftct), 
ACd  the  length  as  205-98  (rather  more 
tlian  CIS  feet).  Scarcely  any  two 
travellers  agree  in  their  aecounts  of 
these  measurements,  and  Iherefore  tbe 
Giitiniate  of  Calindri,  the  celtbrated 
engineer  of  Perugia,  and  author  of  the 
"  Saggto  Statillica  Sloricii"  of  llio 
ftpal  Stales,  may  lie  considered  usc- 

fiili    The  aqueduct  is  supported  by  a  unfortunately  the  auth 
range  of  tm  pointed  brick  arches,  and    ecnlly  allowed  it  to  be  agi 
Jrssid  by  the  same  nuthority  to  hsve^  in  constructing  the  new  gate  leading  t 
ifliM  biiill  by  T/ieodflnpius  III,,  duke  i  to  Ihe  Fol igno  road.  ( 

ofSpohta,  ia  604.    It  hears,  however,  I       One  mfte  easX  tR  <Aa  town,  by  tho=- 
S'l/Scieat  eiidenae  of  repairs  and  ad-  'i  otiueduM,  p'\«uteBi(ie\^  wVMHii. 


ruin  still  called  tlie  Palace  of  Theo.. 
dorio.  Outside  the  cily  galea  Romaa^ 
bridge,  which  bad  remained  buried- 
and  unknown  tbr  centuries,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  torrent  over  which  it' 
was  erected  having  changed  its  bed. 


Papal  Staips.2  route  27. — florbnce  to  r.ome. — Temi.    275 


beautifully  wooded,  is  Monte  Luco, 
with  its  monastery  of  S.  Giuliano,  the 
church  of  the  Madonna  delle  Grazie, 
and  its  numerous  hermitages.  Monte 
Luco  was  made  a  place  of  religious 
pilgrimage  by  St.  Isaac  of  Syria,  a.  d. 
52St  and  it  has  since  had  great  cele- 
brity among  the  monastic  establish- 
ments of  Italy.  The  road  leading  to 
it  commands  some  of  the  most  magni- 
ficent scenery  of  the  valley.  The 
monastery  dates  from  the  tenth  cen- 
tury ;  but  the  great  attraction  of  the 
spot  is  its  beautiful  position,  and  its 
grove  of  oaks,  which  have  been  sin- 
gularly protected  and  preserved  by  the 
ancient  municipal  laws  of  Spoleto. 
One  of  these  fine  trees  is  said  to  be 
not  less  than  105  feet  high,  and  41  in 
circumference. 

An  additional  horse  is  required  by 
the  tariff  between  Spoleto  and  La 
Strettura,  both  ways.*] 

On  leaving  Spoleto  the  road  winds 
over  the  steep  ascent  of  the  Monte 
Somma,  which  rises  at  this  Pass  about 
S738  feet  a])Ove  the  sea.  The  ascent 
commands,  in  fine  weather,  magnifi- 
cent views  over  the  valley  of  the  Cli- 
tumnus,  as  far  as  Foligno  and  Spello, 
backed  by  the  ridge  of  the  Apennines. 
The  upper  parts  of  the  mountain  are 
covered  with  oaks,  among  which  are 
thinly  scattered  trees  of  the  Abruzzi 
pine.  Lower  down,  the  sides  are 
clothed  with  small  forests  of  ilex, 
mixed  with  arborescent  heaths,  and 
lower  still  with  olive  trees,  present- 
ing by  this  diversity  of  ^vegetation 
many  scenes  of  picturesque  interest. 
The  descent  from  the  summit  of  the 
pass  to  Temi  is  longer  and  much 
wilder  in  its  character.  In  former 
days  the  glen  was  famous  for  its  ban- 
ditti ;  it  is  now  infested  with  beggars. 
The  long  descent  at  length  brings  us 
into  the  plains  of  Temi,  celebrated  in 
ancient  times  as  the  most  productive 
in  Italy,  and  still  so  fertile  that  the 
meadows  produce  several  successive 
crops  in  the  year,  precisely  as  they  did 
in  the  djiys  of  Pliny. 

1.  La  Strcttura,  a  post'Station  with 
a  miserable  osteria,    A  t  the  foot  of  the 


ascent,  a  mile  distant,  is  a  large  house, 
called  the  Casa  del  Papa,  formerly 
the  villa  of  Leo  XII.,  who  built  it  as 
his  country  residence.  It  has  latterl3r 
been  used  as  an  inn,  and  is  about  to 
be  supplied  with  additional  accommo- . 
dations  for  travellers.  The  road  from 
Strettura  to  Temi  crosses  the  plain  of 
the  Nera  for  about  three  miles,  a 
highly  cultivated  tract,  abounding  in 
vines,  mulberry  trees,  and  corn. 

1  Tbrni  ( Inns :  Europa ;  Isole 
Britanniche ;  La  Fortuna  :  good). 
This  interesting  little  town,  occupy- 
ing  the  site  of  ancient  Interamnaj  is 
one  of  the  most  thriving  secondary- 
towns  of  the  States  in  which  the  wool- 
len and  silk  manu&cture  has  obtained 
a  footing.  It  has  a  population  of  9000 
souls.  It  claims  the  honour  of  being 
the  birthplace  of  Tacitus  the  historian, 
and  of  the  emperors  Tacitus  and  Flo- 
rian.  It  has  been  the  seat  of  a  bishop- 
ric since  the  year  138. 

The  Cathedral,  dedicated  to  Sta. 
Maria  Assunta,  is  said  to  have  been 
built  from  the  designs  of  BerninL  Its 
altar  is  rich  in  marbles,  and  there  is  a 
small  collection  of  ancient  inscriptions 
preserved  there ;  but  there  is  little  in 
this  or  the  other  churches  of  Terni  to 
require  notice. 

The  Antiquities  consist  of  some  re- 
mains of  an  amphitheatre  in  ,the  gar- 
dens of  the  episcopal  palace ;  of  a 
temple  in  the  circular  church  of  San 
Salvador,  called  by  the  local  antiqua- 
ries the  Temple  of  the  Sun  ;  vestiges 
of  another  building,  called  the  Tem- 
ple of  Hercules,  in  the  cells  of  the 
college  of  San  Siro ;  and  some  re- 
mains of  baths  in  the  villa  of  the  Spada 
family.  Some  inscriptions  are  also 
preserved  in  the  Palazzo  Pubblico,  and 
in  other  parts  of  the  town. 

The  great  interest  of  Terni  is  de- 
rived from  the  Cadttta  delle  Marmore, 
one  of  the  wonders  of  Italy,  and  cele- 
brated throughout  Europe  as  the 
"  Falls  of  Terni."  They  are  distant 
about  five  miles  from  the  town,  and 
the  excursion  will  o<it>r^^  ^\si.^  ««. 
four  bours  ot  xcvoxe,  «a  VXx^  \asXft  «^^ 


i 


BOWTE  ffT.~^rL6«Kjtct  TO  ttoHe. — IWm.    fSect. !, 

to  prolong  his  visit.  To  tliosc  side  of  llie  valley.  The  kHer,  or  lUe 
to  »rt;desinii«of  enjoying  iheacgnp  lower  y'kw,  is  by  fiir  the  best;  but 
lie  enjoyfd,  a  lUy  will  trsvellers  sliould  IM  botli,  and  accord- 
iogly  ihould  ToIIdv  the  direction!  of 
tlic  guides,  and  go  to  (lie  upper  One 
firtt.  The  bed  of  the  river  above  the 
Falls  Is  about  fifty  feet  wide,  and  the 


the  Falls  from  tbe  summit,  ihe  neil 
point  oT  view  is  that  allbrded  by  a 
inull  building  on  a  projecting  ma! 


harilly 

eieunion.  The  charges  for 
•DCS  tn  eiorbitaiit,  tlic  servi 
■  monopoly  in  the  hands  of  i 

nusler,  ccncedcd  lu  him  by  govera.   rapidity  of  the  itieam  is  said  d 
menli  a  light  carrUge  for  txfo  peraons 
bired  it  the  inn  costs  five  pauls;  each 
pcTHin  pays  eight  pauU  mure  ;   so  that 
Sir  a  party  of  four  the  charge  is  three 

■cudi  and  seven  pauls,  'I'he  post  tarilT  of  rock,  some  hundreds  of  feet  above 
ia  eigbt  pauia  for  each  person  if  more  the  bottom,  and  which  was 
than  one,  and  tbtee  pauls  for  each  car-  is  said,  by  Pius  VI.  for  the  accommo. 
liage;  hut.  If  there  be  only  one  person,  datian  of  Napoleon.  The  lo' 
he  pays  eighteen  pauls  and  tbtee  for  of  the  Falls  is  not  ibible  from 
the  carriage  in  addition  to  the  buona-  point,  but  tlie  aaene  nolwithstan dins' 
nunototliepostilionoraboutfivepauls.  is  full  of  grandeur.  A  palh  leads 
The  poalmaitet,  however,  is  not  unfre.  ftoni  this  biiildlng  down  tlic  valley  to 
quently  ready  to  reduce  these  eiorbi-  a  point  where  Ihe  Nai  is  erossed  by 
taut  chafes,  especially  as  donkeys  arc  bridge,  whence  a  road  on  the  oppo- 
now  to  be  hired  very  reasonably.  Tlie  j  site  bonk  leads  the  traveller  through 
expects  from   five   to   seven    groves  of  11 


pauls.  All 
with  the  land- 
prevent  Eulrae- 


patila, 

this  should  be  arrani 

lord  before  starting, 

quent  imposition,    by  manyacicetane 

«aiy  eipense ;  for  the  traveller  is  be- 
Kt  by  scores  at  tlie  Falls,  whom  a  paul 
will  content.  The  cicerone,  however, 
may  be  useful  in  keeping  oil'  tbe  beg- 
gati  wbo  asall  the  traveller  in  all 
parts  of  the  valley  ;  and  for  an  extra 
Jee  of  two  pauls  he  will  pay  all  the 
mtlodi,  door-keepers.  Sic.,  and  relieve 
the  traveller  of  all  trouble.  Pedes- 
trians may  reach  the  Falls  (fii 


and  a  half,  and  ladie 


d  donkeys  for  three  pauls  each. 

After  leaving  the  town,  the  road 
for  nearly  three  miles  ascends  the  val- 
Uf  of  the  Nar,  fgllovring  the  high 
road  between  Terni  and  Ricti  as  far 
as  Fapigno,  a  small  mountain  village, 
where  a  road  leading  to  the  bottom  of 
the  Falls  branches  off.  The  road  then 
«ffi>ends  the  liiU,  and  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  summit  reaches  the  spot 
where  the  Velino  dashes  over  the  pre- 
eipice.  There  are  therefore  two  points 
ofview — tiiai   from   above   and  thai' 


'' J  opposite  the 
caUract.  Nothing  can  surpass  the 
view  aRbrded  by  this  ^de  of  the  val- 
ley, particularly  from  tbe  little  sum- 
mer-house io  tbe  dde  of  the  hil^ 
which  commands  a  view  of  the  whole 
catsract,  from  top  to  bottom,  in  all  its 
magnificence.  Tlioae  travellers  who 
have  only  time  for  one  view  diould 
bear  in  mind  that  tliia  is  murh  to 
be  preferred.  There  is  another  point 
of  view  from  the  summit  of  this  hill 
which  shows  the  Falls  in  relation 
to  the  surrounding  country  :  it  em- 
braces the  whole  plain  of  the  Velino 
as  far  as  the  mountains  behind  the 
Fig  dl  Luco.  described  in  Route  33. 

The  Fails  of  Terni  have  been  so 
frequently  described,  that  ve  shall 
leave  travellers  to  their  own  impres- 
sions, merely  adding  such  hlstoriEal 
and  other  facts  as  may  be  useful,  and 
quoting  the  (bllowing  beautiful  pas- 
sage from  Lord  Byron,  in  whose  judg- 
ment, "  either  from  above  or  below, 
they  are  worth  all  the  cascades  and 
toricnis  of  Swilierland  put  together: 
the  Staubach,  Keichenbach,  Pisse 
VacVie,  ^ftW  t«  Kt^khm.  8m;., 


n  from  the  opposite  \  in  conipa«it\ieav?="*''^"-' 


Papal  Slates.^  R.27. — ^Florence  to  home. — Fallsof  TernL  277 


**  The  roar  of  waters  I— Arom  the  headlong 
height 
Velino  cleaves  the  wave- worn  precipice ; 
The  fall  of  waters!  rapid  as  the  light 
The  flashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  abyss; 
The  hell  of  waters!  where  they  howl  and 

hiss. 
And  boil  in  endless  torture ;  while  the  sweat 
Of  their  great  agony,  wrung  out  fVom  this 
Their  Phlegethon,  curls  round  the  rocks  of 
jet 
That  gird  the  gulf  around,  in  pitileit  horror 
set. 

And  mounts  in  sprays  the  skies,  and  thence 

again 
Returns  in  an  unceasing  shower,  which 

round. 
With  its  unemptied  cloud  of  gentle  rain, 
Is  an  eternal  April  to  the  ground, 
Haking  it  all   one  emerald  :•— bow  pro- 
found 
The  gulf!  and  how  the  giant  element 
From  rock  to  rock  leaps  with  delirious 

bound. 
Crushing  tlie  cliffs,  which,  downward  worn 
and  rent 
With  his  fierce  footsteps,  yield  in  chasms  a 
fearful  vent 

To  the  broad  column  which  rolls  on,  and 

shows 
More  like  the  fountain  of  an  infant  sea 
Torn  from  the  womb  of  mountains  by  the 

throes 
Of  a  new  world,  than  only  thus  to  be 
Parent  of  rivers,  which  flow  gushingly, 
Witb  many  windings,  through  the  vale:— > 

Lookback! 
Lo !  where  it  comes  like  an  eternity. 
As  if  to  sweep  down  all  things  in  its  track, 
Charming  the  eye  with  dread,— a  matchless. 

cataract. 

Horribly  beautiful !  but  on  the  verge. 
From  side  to  side,  beneath  the  glittering 

morn. 
An  Iris  siU,  amidst  the  infernal  surge. 
Like  Hope  upon  a  death-bed,  and,  unworn 
Its  steady  dyes,  white  all  around  is  torn 
By  the  distracted  waters,  bears  serene 
Its  brilliant  hues  with  all  their  beams  un- 
shorn : 
Resembling,  *mid  the  torture  of  the  scene. 
Love   watching    Madness  with    unalterable 
mien." 

Lord  Byron,  in  a  note  to  these 
stanzas,  remarks  the  singular  circum- 
stance **  that  two  of  the  finest  cascades 
in  Europe  should  be  artificial — this 
of  the  Velino,  and  the  one  at  Tivoli." 

The  formation  of  this  cascade  was 
the  work  of  the  Romans.  The  val- 
ley of  the  Velinus  was  subject  to  fre- 
quent inundations  from  the  river, 
which  was  so  charged  with  calcareous 
matter,  that  it  filled  its  bed  with  de- 
posits, and  thus  subjected  the  rich 
plains  of  Kieti  to  constant  overflows 
/row  the  Jakes  which  it  formu  at  that 


part  of  its  course.  «*  The  drainage  of 
the  stagnant  waters  produced,  by  the 
occasional  o/erflow  of  these  lakes  and 
of  the  river  was  first  attempted  by 
Curius  Dentatus,  the  conqueror  of 
the  Sabines  (b.c.  271).  He  caused 
a  channel  to  be  made  for  the  Velinus, 
through  which  the  waters  of  that 
river  were  carried  into  the  Nera  over 
a  precipice  of  several  hundred  feet. 
It  appears  from  Cicero  and  from 
Tacitus  that  the  draining  of  the  Veli- 
nus and  Nera  not  unfrequently  gave 
rise  to  disputes  between  the  inha- 
bitants of  Reate  and  Interamna."-— 
Dr.  Cramer, 

In  these  disputes,  which  happened 
in  the  year  of  Rome  700,  Cicero  was 
consulted  by  the  inhabitants  of  Rieti, 
who  erected  a  statue  to  him  for  his 
services.  '  For  about  1500  years  from 
its  first  construction  the  channel  con- 
tinued to  relieve  the  valley  of  its  su- 
perabundant water;  but  in  1400  it 
was  so  much  obstructed  that  the  peo- 
ple of  Rieti  opened  a  new  channel, 
which  affected  the  lower  valley  and 
inundated  Terni.  Braccio  di  Moo- 
tone,  the  lord  of  Perugia,  interposed, 
and  had  a  new  channel  constructed, 
but  it  was  of  little  service,  and  speed- 
ily filled  up.  From  that  time  to  the 
end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the  in- 
undations either  above  or  below  the 
Falls  gave  rise  to  constant  contentions 
between  the  two  cities ;  and  the  cele- 
brated architects  Sangallo  and  Fon- 
tana  were  employed  upon  the  works, 
but  with  little  success.  Fontana 
adopted  the  old  Roman  channel  until 
he  reached  the  obtuse  angle  which  it 
made  towards  the  precipice ;  he  then 
continued  the  channel  in  a  straight 
line,  so  that  the  waters  entered  the 
Nar  at  right  angles.  This  arrange- 
ment, added  to  the  contracted  state  of 
the  Nar  at  that  point,  blocked  up  that 
river  with  the  masses  of  rock  brought 
down  by  the  Velino,  ^and  ^fresh  in- 
undations occurred  in  the  valley  of 
Terni.  Tliis  was  not  corrected  until 
1 785,  when  it  was  fovitv^xv<^«SEAx^  \a 
adopt  some  tuxVhet  xu'eascctw^  N»  V*^** 
tect  the  \aiid3tvoU«ik  cJl  TwcC\»  %xi^  ' 


F 

^^Bftv  chiuinel  WBi  accuritingly  ciil.  b 

^^SlUb  the  VeWao  \t  bruught  into  ll 

^^Mil  at  an  oblique  angle,  which   hi 

obriMed   the    miubief  in  the  lowi 

vmUey,  and  secured  the  effectual  diaii 

■je  o^  the  plutna  of  Rieti. 

CoOnderBble  dificrencB  eiisU  as  to 
the  Ktuol  height  of  the  Falls.  Calin- 
drl,  the  engineer,  in  hia  great  work  on 
the  Fspal  States,  aivea  it  ns  S75  me- 
tres, di  1230  English  teeti  BicsTdi. 
of  Terni,  the  aiohiteet  of  the  Gaxioli 
theatre,  who  a  more  likely,  a$  a  resi- 
dent engineer  and  orohitcct,  to  have 
taken  greater  pains  in  hii  caleulationi, 
estimntes  the  upper  Fall  at  50  ttet ; 
the  second,  or  the  perpendicular  Fall, 
fcom  500  to  £00  feet ;  and  the  loog 
sheet  of  fbam,  which  forms  tlie  tlilrd 
Fall,  CI  tending  from  the  base  of  the 
second  to  the  Nar,  at  340  feet :  mak- 
ing a  toul  height  of  between  SOQ  and 
900  feet.  It  ii  perhaps  worthy  of  re- 
mark, that  no  two  English  writers 
agree  on  this  suhject,  and  that  some 
of  tbem  have  estimated  it  below  300 
feet,  forgetful  of  the  great  difficulty  of 
forming  a  correel  judgment 
there  is  no  known  stHUtlard  o 


,  and  in  vineyards.     Travellers  reji 
their  carriages  at  Papigno,  to  nhl 

,  place  tbey  must  be  sent  hock  after  ci: 
veying  the  party  to  the  upper  Fall. 

I       From  Temi  a  very  interesting  road 

[  procEcda  through  Kieti  and  Aquila 
direct  to  Naples.  (Handbook  fbr 
Soiithem  Italy). 

From  Terni  to  Rome  is  68  mile 

I  vbidi  may  be  done  in  one  day  by  post 
An  excellent  road  along  the  rich  vol 
ley  of  Terni  brings  ua  to  the  foot  of 
ihc  hill  on  which  Nnmi  is  built. 

1  A'arni  (  fnn  .■  La  Campana,  yery 
good,  villi  a  respectable  landlord). 
Nami  is  an  ancient  Umbrian  city, 
beautifully  situated  on  a  lofty  hill 
commanding  the  valley  of  tile  :' 
and  an  immense  eitent  of  fertile 
varied  country  as  liir  aa  the  Apennines. 
Its  old  convent  towers  and  castle  giv 
it  an  air  of  piotureaqtie  beauty  froi 
many  ports  of  the  nclglibouring  cout 
try,  but  internally  it  is  badly  built, 
and  its  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty. 
It  is  the  Naroia  or  Keqolnum  of  the 
Romans,  the  birthplace  of  the  etnpe- 
tor  Nerya.  and  of  Pope  John  Xl'IU. 
It  is  the  seal  of  a  Itiiliopric,  and  has  a 
e  the  surrounding  population  of  S200  souls.  The  castlo 
eeping  with  the  grand  is  tiow  used  as  a  prison  for  ciimttuils. 
According  to  the  last  govemo 
returns  they  will  hold  aoo  prisoners, 
hut  the  number  actually  confined  was 
only  SO:  of  tbeae  more  than  half 
were  casos  of  theft. 

The  great  object  of  interest  in  Nami 
is  the  ruined  Bridge,  wbieb  has  " 
agei  been  regarded  as  one  of 
noblest  relics  of  iuiperial  times.  ' 
master  of  the  Campana  has  a  light 
carriage  wliloh  may  be  hired  to  taka 
travellers  by  the  road,  for  eight  pauli ; 
but  those  who  ore  able  te  do  so, 
should  walk  down  tbe  picturQ3i|ue 
A   rugged  path 


scale  of  the  Fall  itself.  The  Itoli 
authorities,  with  few  exceptions,  esti- 
mate it  about  1000  feet ;  hut  perhaps 
the  above  calculation,  whicli  makes  It 
from  800  10  900  feet,  is  the  nearest 
approximation  to  tbe  truth. 

The  road  by  which  travellers  who 
have  descended  to  the  lower  Fall  return 
to  Tomi  in  aarried  alonf;  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  united  rivers  through 
groves  uf  ilei.  It  passes  through  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Craziani,  one  of 
the  reudences  of  Queen  Caroline  when 
Princess  of  Wales.  The  scenery  of 
this  valley  is  exceedingly  beautiful, 
and  ardsis  might  Gil  theii  sketch- 
books with  the  varied  and  charming 
landscapes  itpreseuts.  The  mounts n- 
sides  are  covered  with  timber,  among 
which  the  ilei,  tlie  judas-tree,  the 
cbestauc,  and  the  olive  are  con-tpi- 
cuous,  while  the  lower  slopes  are  ricli 
^  oiulberry  and   orange  plantations, 


»ds   froi 


tJie    t 


I    the 


wooded  glen,  through  which  it 
from  the  plsius  of  Temi  to  its 
tion  with  the  llher,  .At  thia 
tlie  magnificent  Br<dgt  of  Avff 

I  which  foimeT^  joined  the  lofty  hills 

'(above  t.\iOTi 


Bapal  StcOesJ}  route  27.— -Florence  to  rome.— iVar^zi.   279 


Flatninian  Way,  still  spans  the  stream 
with  its  massive  ruins.  Nothing  can 
be  imagined  grander  in  its  general 
effect,  or  more  striking  in  its  details, 
than  this  imperial  structure,  and  the 
picturesque  scenery  by  which  it  is 
surrounded.  The  bridge  was  ori^- 
nally  of  three  arches,  built  of  massive 
blocks  of  white  marble,  apparently 
without  cement  or  cramps  of  any  de- 
scription. The  foundations  of  the 
middle  pier  seem  to  have  given  way, 
and  to  have  thus  produced  the  fall  of 
the  two  arches  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river.  The  arch  on  the  left  bank 
is  still  entire:  its  height  is  upwards 
of  sixty  feet,  and  the  breadth  of  the 
piers  is  little  less  than  thirty  feet. 
These  arches  are  described  by  the 
Roman  writers  as  the  highest  known. 
Martial  alludes  to  the  bridge  in  the 
following  passage : 

*'  Sed  jam  parce  mihl,  nee  abutcrc  Narnia 
Quincto  J 
Perpetuo  liceat  sic  tibl  ponte  frui." 

TbK  poets  gave  the  Nar  at  this 
place  the  epithet  sulfurea  :  its  waters 
are  still  turbid,  and  contain  a  small 
quantity  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas, 
which  may  be  traced  in  most  of  the 
calcareous  waters  descending  from  the 
Apennines.  The  best  point  for  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  ruins  is  the 
modern  bridge,  which  crosses  the  river 
a  short  distance  above  them.  It  pre- 
sents many  picturesque  combinations 
for  the  sketch-book,  particularly  where 
the  convent  of  San  Casciano,  which 
forms  so  beautiful  an  object  in  the 
distance,  is  seen  through  the  arch  on 
the  Icfl  bank.  The  mass  of  ruin  be- 
tween the  two  northern  piers,  which 
at  first  sight  would  be  taken  for  a 
pier,  and  is  so  represented  in  several 
drawings,  is  said  to  be  a  part  of  a 
ruined  fortress  erected  on  tlie  bridge 
in  the  middle  ages.  An  examination 
of  the  structure  will  show  that  it  had 
no  connexion  with  the  Roman  work. 

'i'he  Cathedral  of  Narni,  dedicated 
to  S.  Giovenale,  the  first  bishop  of  the 
sec,  A.  n.  .369,  under  St.  Damascus  I., 
/y  remarkable  as  an  example  of  the 


pointed  architecture  of  the  thicteenth 
century.  It  contains  a  good  panel 
picture  of  the  saint.  The  convent  of 
the  Zoccolanti  contains  one  of  the 
finest  works  of  Lo  Spagna,  the  cele- 
brated pupil  of  Perugino.  It  repre- 
sents the  Coronation  of  the  Madonna, 
amid  a  heavenly  choir,  while  an  as- 
semblage of  apostles  and  saints  adore 
the  Madonna  from  below,  and  is  so  re- 
markable both  for  colouring  and  com- 
position, that  it  was  long  regarded  and 
described  as  a  work  of  Raphael.  It 
may  be  best  seen  in  the  evening.  A 
lunette  of  the  Madonna  and  Saints,  in 
fresco,  over  the  church-door,  is  a  good 
work  of  the  Umbrian  school  of  the 
fifteenth  century. 

Travellers  by  post  from  Rome  to 
Florence  frequently  make  Narni  their 
sleeping-place  for  the  first  night.  They 
may  then  reach  Terni  so  early  on  the 
second  day  as  to  see  the  falls  with 
comfort,  and  sleep  at  Terni.  On  the 
third  day  they  may  reach  Perugia, 

There  is  a  good  road  from  Narni 
to  Perugia  through  Todi  (55  miles) 
(Route  22).  An  additional  horse  is 
required  between  Narni  and  Otricoli, 
both  ways. 

The  road  from  Narni  to  Civita  Cas- 
tellana   is   extremely   interesting:    it 
emerges   from   that   great    ravine   of 
the  Apennines  which  it  may  be  said 
to  have  entered  at  Spolcto,  and  ap- 
proaches the  broad  plains  of  the  Tiber. 
The  highly  cultivated  country  on  the 
left,  varied  with  gentle   undulations 
and  covered  with  oaks,  forms  in  itself  a 
i  scene  of  perfect  beauty ;  and  near  Otri- 
!  coli,  Monte  Soracte  gives  a  new  feature 
I  to  the  landscape,  and  continues  for  seve- 
I  ral  stages  to  be  the  most  prominent 
I  ob/ject  from  the  road.     From  its  great 
!  height  it  appears  much  nearer  than  it 
'  really  is,  and  seems  to  follow  the  tra- 
veller,  so  extensive  is  the  circuit  which 
the    road    makes    round    it.      Rcfore 
reaching  Otricoli  a  number  of  ancient 
'  tombs  are   seen  on   the  right  of  the 
road,  marking  the  line  of  the  Flami- 
'  nian  Way. 

i      1    OlncoW,  a  stcv?\S.  n\\\\si«^  o^  ^'^ 
j  souAs,  mtti  one  'WTCC\.Qi>a«i^  vwcv,  xvi\.tiax- 


1.37. — FLORBKCB  TO  SOME. — CivUa  CMteSotm.  tSect.  T. 


!ng  the  nam«  ond  site  of  llie  anc'iunl  i 
rity  uf  Ourictilum,  lUe  first  cily  o( 
Urnbria  whicii  Toliintarily  subinilled 
ID  Rome.  AlOtncoliwEmeet  wiihihe 
argilluniua  morli  of  tliu  tcrtjacy  beds 
lull  ot  ilitlla,  with  calcareoun  gravel 
beds  resting  on  lliein,  anil  rurmiog  tbe 
tipgier  jmrt  of  tliU  formation.  Somy 
Iracei  o(  volcsiiie  luTu  are  met  with  ' 
on  descending  from  Ocriuoli  to  the 
Tiber.  In  1848,  tbe  slcam-bwiu 
which  had  been  introduced  on 
Tiber  were  made  available  Trail 
neigh  bo  urhoud  of  Otricoli  to  Rome, 
skirling  the  whole  of  the  Sabine  tiT- 
rltory.  The  length  of  puisRge  trm 
•bout  70  miles. 

The  rond  descends  rapidly  lo  tht 
plain  of  the  Tiber,  and  skiru  itn  left 
bank  lo  Borghelto.  Shortly  before 
reochiug  the  vilhige  ire  pass  from  tbe 
Delegation  of  Spoleto  into  that  ol 
Viterbo,  and  tbe  road  crosses  the 
Tiber  hy  a  tine  bridge,  called  the 
FoDte  Felice,  built  by  Augustus  and 
repaired  by  Siitus  v.;  It  united  Urn- 
bria with  Etruria,  whieh  we  again 
enter  at  Ihi^  spot.  The  plain  on  the 
left  hand  is  memorable  for  the  gallant 
which  Macdonald,  during 


tlie  P 


e  Frenc' 


Italy,  in  December  1T9B,  cut  his  way 
Ihiongtl  the  Neapolitan  army  under 
Mack.  The  remnant  of  Mocdonald'ii 
army,  which  had  not  then  been  joined 

8000  men,  while  that  of  his  ioeapable 
opponent  is  admitted  by  Neapolitan 

as  large.  The  skirmishing  lasted  seven 
days,  when  Macdonald,  weary  of  acting 
on  the  defensive,  completely  routed 
the  Italians,  and  crossed  the  Tiller. 

J  Borghelto,  a  post-slation,  with  a 
few  scattered  bouses  and  no  sleeping 
aecommodatian.  Its  picturesque  old 
dismantled  fortress  of  the  middle  ages 
-was  more  than  onee  occupied  during 
tbe  contests  juiit  described.  It  stands 
on  the  gravel  beds  which  we  have  seen 
at  Otricoli,  forming  the  upper  part  of 
covered  appa- 


the 


Tiber  the  traveller  meets  the  volcanic 
Ibrmations  of  the  Campi^na.  Above 
Borgfaetto,  tlie  geologist  will  be  much 
inlcmCed  in  a  line  mass  of  Uva,  filled 
with  leueite,  which  continuea  nearly 
to  CiviU  Caslellana.  This  leucitic 
lava  rests  on  tufa,  beneath  which  are 
the  tertiary  gravel  beds  just  described. 

An  additional  horse  is  required 
from  Borghelto  to  Otricoli,  but  not 
niti  terta.  An  additional  horse  lo 
CivitB  Caalellana,  but  not  cici  tend. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of 
the  approach  to  CivitaCaslcllanii;  and 

fails  to  dwell  with  enthuslasnt  on  its 
singularly  picturesque  position. 

I  Clvila  Castellaua,  (  fta ;  La  Posta, 
recently  so  much  improved  as  to  be 
one  of  the  beat  inns  between  Florence 
and  Rome.  The  Croce  Bianca,  in  tlie 
Gran  Piaiza,  and  IL  Moro,  are  toler- 
able vetturino  inns.  The  Croce  Bi- 
nncB  is  kept  by  the  same  landlord  as 
the  I'osta.)  The  best  guide  to  tbe 
Elniscan  remains,  both  of  Civita  Cas- 
tellana  and  of  Falleri,  is  Doiianica 
Maooini,  whose  services  may  be  ob- 
tained for  a  few  pnuls  a  day,  and  who 
will  provide  horses  at  3  pauls  each, 
per  diem.  'J'he  road,  immediately 
before  it  enters  the  gate  of  the  city, 
is  carried  over  the  ravine  at  a  height 
of  130  feet  above  the  bottom  by  the 
magnilicent  bridge  built  by  Cardinal 
Imperial!  in  I7l3<and  justly  regarded 
as  one  of  the  flnest  works  of  papal 
times.  CiviuCastellBna,romantically 
situated  on  n  plateau  of  red  voleanio 
tula  testing  on  tertiary  gravel  beds,  it 
a  fortified  episcopal  town  of  S800  in. 
habitants ;  the  high  road  runs  through 
la  principal  street,  but  with  tbe  ei- 
:eption  of  its  Etruscan  antiquities, 
here  is  little  in  the  town  to  detain 
the  traveller.  The  Cathedral, a  pointed 
building  of  the  19th  century,  beats  the 
dale  »cci.  Its  Lombard  doorway 
rests  OB  lions,  and  is  covered  with  an- 


portico,  before  the  doorway,  s 
remains  of  a  mosaic  friexe,  « 
insCTiplion  now  iUegible.  < 
I  walls  ot  ths  BtaittXi  ate  iQKie 


Pc^Mil  State8j\  R. 27.— FLORENCE  TO  ROME.—  C.  Casiellona.  281 


sepulchral  tablets  with  effigies,  dating 
from  the  15th  century.     The  interior 
has  been  modernised,  and  is  not  re- 
markable.    The  bodies  of  S.   Gra- 
cilian  and  Sta.  Felicissima,  who  suf' 
fered  martyrdom  in  this  town  in  the 
third  century,  are  still  preserved  here 
and  regarded  with  great  veneration. 
The  Citadel,  now  used  as  a  state  prison, 
occupies  the  isthmus  of  land  by  which 
the  town  is  connected  with  the  higher 
ground ;  it  was  begun  by  Pope  Alex- 
ander  VI.,  from  the  designs  of  San- 
gallo,   in    1500,   and    completed    by 
Julius  II.  and  Leo  X.     It  is  an  oc- 
tagonal tower,  with  triangular  out- 
works; but  is  wholly  inadequate  to 
defend  this  important  position,  which 
ought,  in  the  opinion  of  engineers,  to 
be  the  strongest  in  Southern  Italy. 
The  prisons,  according  to  the  govern- 
ment returns,  will  bold  130  political 
and  1 5  criminal  offenders ;  at  present 
there  are  seldom  more  than  100  ac- 
tually confined  there.     The  ravines, 
which  almost  insulate  the  town,  and 
the  fine  scenes   commanded  by  the 
higher  ground,   extending  over  the 
Campagiia  and  embracing  the  plain 
of  the  Tiber  and  Soracte,  will  afford 
occupation  for  many  successive  days 
to   the   archaeologist   and  the  artist. 
In  the  bottom  of  these  ravines  flow 
the  streams  called  the   Rio   Vicano 
and  the  Rio  Maggiore,  which  unite 
below  the  town,  and  &11  into  the  Tiber 
under  the  name  of  the  Treia. 

Civita  Castellana  occupies  the  site 
of  the  most  ancient  of  the  two  cities 
of  Falerium  or  Falcrii,  the  capital  of 
the  ancient  Falisci,  and  one  of  the 
twelve  cities  of  the  Etruscan  league. 

"  Falj«ci8 
Moenia  contigimus  victa,  Camille,  tibi." 

Ovid. 

Considerable  difficulty  formerly  ex- 
isted in  regard  to  the  actual  position 
of  this  city,  in  consequence  of  some 
apparent  contradictions  in  the  ac- 
counts of  the  Roman  writers,  and  also 
from  the  circumstance  that  many  of 
the  ^  early  topographers  were  unac- 
quamted  witlt  the  exact  iocaJities 
:>ir  WillUun  GeJJ  and  Muller,  foUow* 


ing  the  opinion  of  Nardini  and  the 
older   Italian    antiquaries,    supposed 
that  C.  Castellana  noarked  the  site  of 
Fescennium,  which  is  more  correctly 
placed  at  Gallese,  a  few  miles  distant. 
It  is  now  known,  however,  that  the 
Latin  accounts  of  two  cities  bearing 
the  same  name  is  perfectly  correct ; 
the  first,  or  Falerium  Fetus,  founded 
by  the  Pelasgi  shortly  afiter  the  Trojan 
war,  occupied  the  site  of  Civita  Cas- 
tellana ;   and  the  second,  or  Falerii 
Nuvi,  was  built  in  the  plain  about 
4  miles  distant,  after  the  destruction 
of  the  old  city  by  the  Romans,  about 
the  year  of  Rome  512.     To  Civita 
Castellana,   therefore,  as   the  repre-  ' 
sentative  of  Falerium  Vetus,  the  allu- 
sions of  Plutarch,  of  Livy,  of  Ovid, 
and  of  Zonaras  undoubtedly  apply ; 
and  among  the  historical  associations 
which  these  names  will  call  before  the 
mind  of  the  classical  tourist,  the  cele- 
brated  story   of  Camillus    and    the 
schoolmaster  will  not   be  forgotten. 
The  second  city,  though  built  by  the     ' 
Romans,  was  constructed  after   the    * 
Etruscan  model,  and  there  is  no  doubt    * 
that  it  continued  to  be  inhabited  by 
Etruscans,  although  it  was  nominally 
a  Roman  colony. 

The  remains  of  the  first  and  oldest 
of  these  Etruscan  cities  will  be  found 
in  the  deep  ravines  which  surround 
the  plateau  on  which  Civita  Castel* 
lana  is  built.  Near  the  viaduct  at 
the  entrance  of  the  town,  forming  an 
angle  on  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  some 
portions  of  the  ancient  wall  are  met 
with,  constructed  of  masses  of  stone 
four  feet  long  and  two  feet  deep,  and 
in  one  part  eighteen  courses  high. 
At  the  N.  E.  angle  of  the  town,  near 
the  convent  of  Sta.  Agata,  we  meet 
with  an  Etruscan  road  bordered  with 
tombs  and  sepulchral  chambers,  and 
still  presenting  the  water-course  cut 
in  the  tufa,  and  the  mouths  of  several 
sewers.  The  road  winds  down  into 
the  valley,  passing  two  ruined  gate- 
ways of  the  middle  ages,  and  com- 
manding in  lV\e  ^Qscewx  q^c«ls\q>\v3b\ 
gligipses  of  the  "Eltuscww^XV*  yW^ 
upon  the  vcr^  bfinV  ol  V^«  <i\\«,«A 


SfSS  11.27. — trLDREKCE  TO  home •S'.  JffiwiVA'i^HW.  CSect.T:'" 

auimouDtcd  by  less  mastWc  mn.sanry  Travellers  may  ga  Ibere  ia  a  liglit 
of  the  luulde  ages^  Turning  into  the  carnage,  or  still  better  □□  horseback; 
ntiiu  watered  by  the  Rio  Vicano,  there  in  no  diOiculty  in  obtaining  a 
ws  itill  trace  along  the  brink  of  Ibe  proper  conveyance  from  the  inn. 
cliff  many  fi-agmeuts  of  the  Etruscan  Tboie  who  ore  not  preaieil  for  lime 
walls,  in  nuuiy  places  serving  as  found-  will  probably  prefer  making  tt  a  pC' 
atioaa  for  medisval  or  more  modern  I  deitrian  excursion.  It  derives  its 
walls.  Crossing  the  stream  and  re-  ,  name  of  Sta.  Maria  from  an  old  con- 
tnniing  towards  the  tovn  in  the  vent  within  its  walls,  buiti  of  the  ruins 
direction  of  the  citadel,  we  notice  ^oftheaucient  city.  On  leaving  Civita 
numerous  lambs  hollowed  in  the  rock, '  Castellana,  the  road  for  about  half  a 
many  of  them  being  large  conical  pits,  mile  follows  that  to  Borghetto ;  it  then 
9  feet  liigb.and  bearing  such  a  rcsem-  turns  00*10  the  I efl  through  a  prettily 
blance  la  corn-pita  that  many  writers  wooded  country.  For  some  distance 
bave  described  them  as  such.  Atthe'it  is  bad;  as  it  approaches  the  mini 
Ponte  del  Terrono,  the  cliffs  on  all '  it  foils  in  with  portions  of  the  ancient 
mdes  are  jierforsted  with  Innumerable  '  road.  Before  we  come  io  sight  of  the 
tombs  and  sepulchral  niches  of  every  ruina  we  pass  near  a  very  remarkable 
variety  of  form  ejLoepi  the  circular,  tomb,  with  a  portico  of  three  largo 
most  of  which  are  supplied  with  spl-  arches,  a  bidil  cornice  of  masonry,  and 
ntmina  or  trap  doors,  by  which  they  architectural  mouldings  and  decora- 
Doold  be  ventilated  or  entered  aAer  tions  of  Bonum  character ;  near  it 
the  ordinary  entrance  had  been  closed,  is  a  group  of  tombs  with  porticos, 
One  tomb  bears  on  its  exterior  the  one  of  which  has  a  Latin  inscription, 
inscription  "  Tuclhnu"  ill  Etruscou  protlug  that  if  these  tombs  were  ori- 
lettera,  and  the  Interior  of  another  has  ginally  £truscan,  they  were  after- 
an  inscription  in  letters  a  foot  in  vards  caiiverted  by  the  Romans  to 
hugbt,  which  has  been  quoted  by  their  own  use.  The  plan  of  the  city 
Lanii  and  other  Italian  writers  on  is  nearly  a  triangle,  of  which  Ihe  west 
Xtruscan  arL  The  Poute  del  Ter-  and  south-east  angles  are  abruptly  cut 
leno  itself  is  worthy  o   minute  ex-  oE     The  walls  are  built  of  tufa,  and 

northern  pier,  lo  the  height  of  10  fended  by  quadrilateral  lowera  placed 
courses,  is  of  massive  Etruscan  ma-  at  unequal  dislauces,  and  remarkably 
sotuy;  tbe  arch  wliich  rests  upon  this  solid  in  their  construction.  Ap- 
and  spans  tbe  ravine  watered  by  the  proacbing  the  city  irom  C.  Castellaua, 
Rio  Magglote,  is  of  mediarval  orchi-  we  come  first  upon  the  eastern  side, 
lecture;  above  this  arch  is_a  second,  where  a  Human  tomb  on  a  square 
which  also  spnns  the  ravine  and  car-  foundation  is  a  conspicuous  object, 
rieathe  roadi  aud  above  that  again  is  '  One  of  the  principal  gateways  of  tba, 
the  modern  aqueduct,  which  supplies  city  is  close  to  this  spot,  and  further. 
the  town  with  water.  The  anciont'on,  in  the  truncated  N.E.  angle,  ia 
road  to  the  second  city  of  Falerli  another  gateway  arched  with  a  tower 
passes  by  this  bridge.  !  on  its  \eti.     This  eastern  tine  of  wall 

The  second  city  of  Falerli,  built  by  has  19  lowers  more  or  less  perfect, 
(he  Romans,  although  occupied  by  The  northern  line  also  has  1 9  towers 
Etruscans  from  the  ancient  city,  is  nearly  perfect ;  in  tlic  middle  of  the' 
situated  at  llio  distance  of  4  miles  Hue  is  a  little  gate,  arched  with  small 
firotu  Civita  Castellana,at  aspot  called  .stones,  and  still  very  complete.  At 
Sla.  Maria  di  Fatkri.  Its  walls  are  this  ^ot  are  traces  of  Ibe  ancient 
nearly  ptriect,  and  it  is  perhaps,  not  1  pavement,  and  several  Itoman  tombs, 
too  much  to  say  that  they  present  the  one  of  wblcli  is  pyramidal.  At  (he 
Bm  extmardiaaty  speeiraen  of  an-iiroitli-'weBt  a^ei  q5  "ftie  vrian^le  is  a 
■Wnii/;(arj'Brcliilecturenowcitant.\fine  maisWe  gate'sa^  \a  ^^.  Ytvfii, 


Papcd  States."}    R.  27. — Florence  to  rome. — St,  Oreste.    283 


with  an  arch  formed  of  19  Mocks, 
flanked  by  towers,  and  called  the  Porta 
di  Giove,  from  a  head  of  Jupiter  on 
the  keystone.  This  is  the  most  per- 
fect of  all  the  gates.  The  walls  here 
are  composed  of  15  courses,  and  are 
about  32  feet  high.  The  south  side 
was  defended  by  the  deep  glen  through 
which  the  little  torrent  JVliccino  runs 
in  its  course  towards  the  Rio  Mag- 
giore.  Its  walls  and  towers  have  suf* 
fered  more  than  the  other  sides  of  the 
city,  but  the  three  gates  are  still  trace- 
able. One  of  these  near  the  south-east 
angle  is  called  the  Porta  del  Bore  from 
the  Bull's  head  on  the  keystone ;  the 
height  of  the  walls  here  is  5^  feet,  and 
some  of  the  stones  are  6  feet  long  and 
2  feet  high.  The  Necropolis  was  evi- 
dently in  the  dell  below.  The  clifis  are 
perforated  with  sepulchral  niches,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream  are 
remains  of  numerous  Roman  tombs, 
one  of  which  has  been  found  to  bear 
an  early  Christian  inscription.  With- 
in the  walls,  the  principal  remains  are 
those  of  the  theatre,  near  the  Porta 
del  Bove,  Etruscan  in  the  foundations, 
but  evidently  Roman  in  the  super- 
structure and  decorations.  A  fine 
statue  of  the  Argivc  Juno,  and  several 
Roman  statues  and  fragments  of  sculp- 
ture have  been  found  among  its  ruins ; 
but  there  is  no  doubt  that  there  is 
still  much  to  be  brought  to  light  by 
judicious  excavations.  There  are  also 
the  remains  of  the  Piscina,  and  of 
what  is  supposed  to  be  the  Forum. 
Just  inside  the  Porta  di  Giove  is  the 
/Ibbadia  di  Sta.  Maria,  an  interesting 
example  of  Lombard  architecture  of 
the  12th  century;  its  three  naves  are 
divided  by  columns  evidently  taken 
from  the  ancient  ruins.  Over  the 
door  is  an  ancient  capital,  and  these 
inscriptions  :  "  Laurentius  cum  Ja- 
copo  iilio  Ruo  fecit  hoc  opus : "  "  Hoc 
opus  Q.  Intavall.  6eri  fecit."  The 
roof  of  this  church  fell  in  1829,  and  it 
is  now  deserted  and  in  ruins. 

Excursion  to  Soractk.^ 

I 

Another  excursion  from  Civita,  Cas-  I 
te/Jana  is  to  Mon§  Soraete,  or  Sant* 


Oreste,  as  it  is  now  called.  It  is  about 
ten  miles  distant,  and  is  interesting  both 
for  classical  recollections,  and  for  the 
beautiful  scenery  which  it  commands* 

**  Vides  ut  alta  stet  nive  candidum 
Soracte."  Hor.,  Od.  I.  9. 

"  The  lone  Soracte's  heights  displayed, 
Not  now  in  snow,  which  asks  the  lyric 

Roman's  aid 
For  our  remembrance,  and  from  out  the 

plain 
Heaves  like  a  long-swept  wave  about  to 

break, 
And  on  the  curl  hangs  pausing." 

ChUde  Harold,  iv. 

The  road  is  perfectly  practicable  for 
carriages  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
but  the  ascent  -to  the  village  of  St. 
Oreste  is  extremely  steep  and  dan- 
gerous in  parts.  St.  Oreste,  supposed 
to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Etruscan 
town  of  Feronia,  has  about  1000  in- 
habitants, but  no  inn  ;  travellers,  how- 
ever, are  received  in  a  house  outside 
the  gates  by  a  wealthy  family  who  seem 
to  take  pleasure  in  showing  attention 
to  strangers.  The  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, far  above  the  town,  is  said  to  be 
upwards  of  2000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea ;  it  is  occupied  by  the  famous 
convent  of  S.  Silvestro,  founded  in  the 
eighth  century  by  Carloman,  son  of 
Charles  Martel,  on  the  site  of  a  church 
built  by  St.  Silvester,  previous  to  his 
accession  to  the  popedom,  on  the  con- 
version of  Constantine  the  Great.  The 
original  site  was  probably  occupied  by 
the  temple  of  Apollo  alluded  to  by 
Virgil.  The  garden  of  St.  Silvester  is 
still  shown  by  the  monks,  and  the  place 
is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims.  The 
view  from  the  summit  is  singularly 
imposing ;  on  the  south  it  embraces  the 
Campagna  as  far  as  Albano ;  on  the 
west,  the  lake  of  Bracciano ;  while  to- 
wards the  north  and  east  its  prospect  is 
bounded  by  the  hills  stretching  far 
away  in  the  distance  from  Civita  Cas- 
tellana  towards  the  country  already 
described.  On  the  eastern  side  of 
Soracte,  near  the  Church  of  Sta.  Ro- 
mi^a,  are  an  ancient  grotto  and  a 
number  of  deep  fissures,  described  b^ 
Pliny,  from  wYi\cV\  V\o\e\\\.  \E;as\&  oS. 
wind  stiU  issue,  '^ot  ^ax  ito\\\\\.  v&^^ 
Acqua  forte,  a  povrwtu\  sUvimsv,  ^>i^- 


Vbl. 


ttOKtB  27.  —  FLOBEKCE  TO  RQME.- 


I  benutitiiUy  wouded,  and 
ia«  iHndscupes  will  aFTard 
ogTMablc  occupation  to  the  ortust.  I  u 
anplopcnl  point  of  view  Suracle  b 
Ukcviu  inlerciiting :  it  consitis  of  ■ 
mm  of  Kconduy  liroeHtoae,  project- 
ing  like  an  island  frum  the  midst  of 
th*  Tolcanio  lu£i  which  forms  the  le>e 
part  of  the  Campagna. 

From  Civita  Ciutcllanii  to  Romt 
the  old  and  direct  road  folio  its  (Ii 
Flaminion  Way,  iliirtia^  the  base  of 
Mans  Soraete,aiidprocei!(ling through 
Capaniiiicce,  Riguano.  Borghetlaoio, 
and  Prima  Porta ;  but  it  has  fallen 
into  disuse  Eince  Fius  VI.  constrocted 
tbe  high  post-road  througli  Nepi,  in 
order  to  unite  this  olth  the  ro:id  from 
Florence,  Siena,  and  Viteibo  to  Rome. 
Hignano,  the  second  station  of  this 
toad,  is  said  to  be  the  birth-place  of 
Cesar  Borgia,  and  is  about  7  miles 
distant  from  the  hill  of  San  Martiiio, 
the  Bite  of  the  E truscian  city  of  Cdpeno, 
reUbing  nothing  but  the  beauty  of  iU 


a  and  scenery. 

The  rood  to  Nepi  desceuds  iiv 
plain  fbrroerly  ceiebratod  for  tl 
eient  Ciminian  forest,  and  pre 
throogh  groves  of  oaks  to  Nepi, 
ing  [ti  magnificent  ai]uedui^t  o 
tietsofarchcs,buiilby  Pope  Paul 
shortly  bdbra  entering  the  wsllt 

1  Ncpi  (  /nn.  Lb  Fontaiia  or  Posla, 
»ery  poor ;  La  Pace  loletabh 
dear),  the 


e  haviug 


■gone! 


change.     Nepi  is  an  episcopal  town 
of  ITOO  inhabitants.     It  isremorkable 
diielly  from  its  picturesque  position 
on  the  edge  of  a  deep  glen  of  volcj 
tufn)  it  is  surrounded  by  tbttilicMi 
of  the  middle  ages,  and  on  the  Itoi 
aide  particularly  the  towcre  and 
chioolaled  battlements  jiroduce  a  very 
fine  effect.      Some  of  these  fortifiea-       .     _. 

tions  rest  on  the  niiin  of  the  Etruscan        1  Monlerosi  (/sm.  La  Po; 
walls,  oFwhieb  a  fine  specimen  in  19    L'Angelo,  both  very  miserable,  but 
courses  and  36  feet  in  height,  may  be\pietwTed  by  some  to    Riiccano,  -'- 
seen  near  the  southern  gate.    Another  \  neit  slatwin,  on  acemiWi  ol  \i=m^ 
/i-fl^mentofIOcoLirseflisfi)undwilhui\lnglMa   ttouiii  ani  vnoTs  Siee. 


fSect.  I. 


ilso  to  be  alluded  to  by  the  I  (he  inner  gate, 

of  the  ravine  which  bounds  the  town 
>n  the   south   is  a  Tery    interesting 
ipecimen  in  perfect  presenalion,  but 
Mily  4  courses  high.      Soine  of  these 
fragments  must   liave  been  the  very 
■     scaled    by    CamUlus   when   be 
led  Nepete.B.c3B6.   The  oldest 
fortilications  bear  thcarmsorCalixIuB 
IIL,  who  died  in  1458,  snd  the  more 
were  built   by    Sangallo,   for 
II.,  in  the  uxteentb  century. 
The  French  set  fire  to  the  town  in 
17911,  aiul  nearly  destroyed  it ;  there 
is  little   now  to  detain  the  traieller 
xcepting  its  ancient  chuich,  and  the 
oifn-ball    with  its    fine    front  orna- 
mented irith  statues  and  antique  in- 
iptions.    Beneath  the  town-hall  are 
several  Roman  altars  and  statues  tbu  nd 
te  neigh bourhoud,  and  an  antique 
tain  ornamented  with  lion's  lieitdi. 
the  opposite  side  of  the  piszia  ia 
IB-relief  of  a   winged  lion  much 
ilated.      This  little  town  appears 
been  the 


short  ti 


g  the  middle  : 


and  in  the  thirteenth  century  it  was 
leged    and   finally    taken   by   the 

emperor  Frederick  II.  I  Is  bishopric 
ine  of  the  oldest  in  Italy,  having 
n  founded  in  llie  time  of  St  Peter  t 
first  bishop  was  St.  Romano,  A.  n. 
Ncpi  is  5  miles  from  the  ruim 
Falleri  described  in  a  preceding 
;e,   fallowing  a  pathway    through 


Via  Ami 


sfroi 


(p.  233.),  by  a  short  c 

t,  and  9  miles 

by  the  high  road. 

The  road  now  loses 

ti  picturesque 

a  lare  volcanic 

maindcr   of  the  joum 

Papal  StaiesJ]  R.  27. — Florence  to  ViOuz.^Baccano.       285 


malaria).  The  conical  hill  above 
Monterofii  called  Monte  di  Lucchetti, 
crested  with  some  medisval  ruins, 
commands  an  extensive  view  of  the 
Campagna,  with  Soracte,  the  Apen- 
nines, the  peak  of  Rocca  Romana,  the 
Ciminian  mountains,  and  other  well 
known  features  of  the  scene.  There 
is  a  carriageable  road  from  Monterosi 
to  Sutrif  about  7  miles  distant,  and 
another  from  Sutri  to  Ronciglione, 
which  will  afford  the  traveller  a  better 
resting-place.  Sutri  is  described  at 
page  233.  in  the  previous  Route.  At 
Monterosi  we  leave  the  Delegation 
of  Viterbo,  and  enter  upon  the  Co- 
roarca  of  Rome. 

Between  this  and    Baccano,  and 
about  midway  between  the  two,  is  a 
large  and  good  inn,  called   Jjt  Sette 
Vene,  certainly  the  best  between  Civita 
Castellana  and  Rome,  being  1 6  miles 
from  the  former  and  22  miles  firom  the 
latter.     The  proprietor  has  recently 
hired  the  two  relays  of  post  from  Mon- 
terosi to  Nepi,  so  that  travellers  can 
now  be  forwarded  on  their  route  at 
any  time  on  the  scale  of  the  govern- 
ment tariff.     The  vetturini  very  pro- 
perly prefer  it  as  a  resting-place  to 
either  Monterosi  or  Baccano.     Close 
to  this  inn  of  the  Sette  Vene  may 
still  be  seen  in  excellent  preservation 
an  arch  of  the  ancient  Roman  bridge 
of  one  arch  over  the  Triglia,  by  which 
the  Via  Amerina,  a  branch  of  the  Fla- 
minian  Way,  was  carried  direct  from 
Todi  through  Sta.  Maria  di   Falleri 
and  Nepi  into  the  Via  Cassia  at  Bac- 
cano.   A  few  miles  beyond  Sette  Vene 
the  road  crosses  the  lip  of  the  crater 
in  which  Baccano  is  situated.     From 
this  high  ground  the  outline  of  the 
crater  is  still  strongly  marked.     On 
the  hill  above  the  inn  called  Monte 
Razzano,  which  commands  a  most  in- 
teresting view,  are  some  ruins,  sup- 


tion  is  objectionable  on  account  of 
malaria).  It  is  situated  in  a  hollow 
under  the  north-east  slopes  of  an  extinct 
crater,  3  miles  at  least  in  diameter, 
and  composed  of  beds  of  ashes  and 
pumice.  In  the  centre  of  this  crater 
is  the  sulphurous  pool  whose  impure 
waters  render  the  atmosphere  un- 
wholesome. Beyond  the  south-western 
ridge  of  the  crater  are  two  small  lakes^ 
one  of  which  is  the  Lacus  Alsietinus, 
now  called  the  Lago  di  Martignano, 
lying  between  the  crater  and  the  east 
side  of  the  lake  of  Bracciano.  Traces 
of  the  ancient  emissaries  made  on  this 
side  to  drain  the  lake  formerly  existing 
in  this  crater,  may  be  seen  from  the 
road  after  leaving  the  inn  at  Baccano ; 
and  on  the  upper  part  of  the  hill  are 
several  holes  of  great  depth,  called 
po2zi  by  the  peasantry,  which  were 
no  doubt  the  shafts  of  these  emis- 
saries. 

Between  Baccano  and  La  Storta  the 
traveller  from  Florence  by  this  route 
enjoys  from  some  high  ground  the 
first  view  of  St.  Peter's. 

•«  Oh  Rome !  my  country !  city  of  the  soul !  1 
The  orphans  of  the  heart  must  turn  to  thee. 
Lone  mother  of  dead  empires !  and  control 
In  their  shut  breasts  their  petty  misery. 
What  are  our  woes  and  sufibrance  ?   Come 

and  see 
The  cypress,  hear  the  owl,  and  plod  your 

way 
0*er  steps  of  broken  thrones  and  temples  I 

Ye 
"Whose  agonies  are  evils  of  a  day  — 
A  world  is  at  our  feet  as  fragile  as  our  clay. 

The  Kiobe  of  nations!  there  she  stands,^ 
Childless  and  crownless,  in  her  voiceless 

woe; 
An  empty  urn  within  her  wither'd  hands* 
Whose  hoiy  dust  was  scatter'd  long  ago ; 
The  Scipins'  tomb  contains  no  ashes  now  ; 
The  very  sepulchres  lie  tenantleis 
Of  their  heroic  dwellers :  dost  thou  flow. 
Old  Tiber!  through  a  marble  wilderness  ? 
Rise,  with  thy  yellow  waves,  and  mantle  her 
distress/'  Cfiiide  JIaroid,  iv.  . 

At  the  Osteria  del  Fosso,  a  lonely 
wayside  inn,  the  road  crosses  one  of 


posed   to   be   those   of  a   temple   of'  the  branches  of  the  Cremera,  and  be- 


Bacchus,  and  denoting  the  site  of  the 
Statio  ad  Baccanas,  on  the  Cassian 
Way. 

1  Baccano  ( Inn,  the  Post,  civil  and 
reasonable,  and  by  no  means  the  worst 
inn  on  this  romi,  although  the  situa- 


tween  that  spot  and  La  Storta  skirts 
the  elevated  ridge  beyond  which  the 
celebrated  Etruscan  city  of  Veii,  the 
great   rival   of  Rome,  vi«&  ^\\.\3aX.^% 
The  intenetv\ivgY\\\\*  «\\o^  ^«ttv^^  % 
glimpse  oi  lYiwft  VnXftt^alCm^  xvCvcc^* 


^86     BotiTS  a7<— dUiKsinw  TO  roms. — Fimtt  Jfitfo-.^SKtA 


description  of  wlitcb   will  be  faunil 
under  Exeunlonii  riom  Hcrmc. 

1 1  La  Storta.  Ibe  lost  pout  to  Rome. 
Ai  ve  drair  nearer  the  Eternal  City, 
Ibe  toad  winds  uier  llie  gentle  eleva- 
&tia  vhich  mark  llie  deiolnte  Cain- 
ptgntu  but  there  ore  no  tillages  or 
eountry-acsta  todeoote  the  approach  to 
■  Bieat  capital  1  lome  old  brick  tawera 
oC  Ibe  middle  ages,  and  a  feir  mined 
joim-bDuaes,  Rre  the  only  objects  which 
break  Uie  maDutony  of  llie  Bcenc.  If 
the  |ireienl  a^iieot  of  the  Campagna 
should  excite  a  conlmstirith  the  event- 
ful drnmn  once  enacted  on  its  suiface, 
fliere  in  perhaps  no  description  wliicli 
will  more  completely  embody  the  feel- 
ings of  the  claancal  tourist  than  that  of 
Milton  in  the  faurtb  book  oF  I'aradise 
Itegained,  vhich  Mr.  Beckford  seems 
to  haTC  paraphrased  in  the  well-knovu 
idcBcriptioii  of  his  entrance 
Abou    " 


nilcsl 


the  toad  brings  the  towers  and  cupolas 
of  Rome  more  prominently  into  viewi 
but  with  tiie  exception  of  St  Peter's 
and.'tbe  Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  there  are 
no  objetB  of  striking  interest  in  the 
{jnnpecL  The  Coliseum,  the  Aque- 
dncts,  the  Capitol,  and  the  nuuMrous 
antiquities  whose  names  suggest  them- 
selves almost  uiToluntarlly  at  the  first 
aight  of  Rome,  all  lie  on  the  other 
ude;  and  the  stranger  will  perhaps  be 
disappointed  to  Gnd  that  there  is  na 
point  in  this  route  which  commands 
view  over  the  whole  city. 

As  we  advance  the  appearance  of  tb 
country  becomes  more  pleasing,  am 
the  v^tation  is  less  scanty.      Mont 
Maiio,  with  its  wooded  platform  co- 
vered with  stone-pines  and  cypresses,  I 
bounds  the  praapeet  on  the  right ;  the  ' . 
hilla  of  Frasoali  and  Albano  stretch  far   ; 
■way  in  Ibe  distance  on  the  left ;  while  '  ■ 
mironttbeplainoftho  Tiber  isspread    . 
out  before  us.      About  3  miles  from    i 
Borne  is  a  sarcophagus  on  a  mined   ■ 
batWi  rising  above  the  road  on  the  right 
band;  itiBorroneouBlycalledthe  Totiib    ■ 
ofNtro,  although  an  inscription  yet    ' 
legible  shovs  that  it  was  the  tomb  uf^ 

Eblias   Vibws   Mnrianu?    and   Wia 
Regbaa  Afaiima ; 


,  wiiioh  may  serve  to  prepare  the 
,  vcller  for  the  antiquarian  misnon 
of  Rome  iuelf. 

I  At  length  the  rood  reaches  the  Tiber, 
which  it  crosses  by  ihe  Pmte  Motif, 
I  fflodcrnliridge  built  en  the  foundation 
!  of  Ihe  Pons  Milvius,  constructed  by 
j  M.  £milius  Scauru*.  The  ancient 
bridge  is  memorable  in  the  history  of 
I  Home  for  Cicero's armtoftheambas- 
;  sadors  of  the  Aliobioges,  the  ao 
plicesafCati1ine,iuidforthGcdebrated 
battle  fought  near  it  between  Conston- 
tineand  Msientius,  a  rdigions  victory 
which  the  genius  of  Raphael  has  in- 
vested with  additional  interettby  his 
design  for  Ibe  well-known  fresco  in  the 
Vatican.  It  wa^  also  the  seen 
Constaatine's  Vision.  From  its  { 
pet  the  body  of  Maientius  was  p 
pitated  into  the  I'iber  -,  nnil  on 

candlestick  of  maisivc  gold,  brought 
by  Titus  from  Ate  Temple  of  Jerusa- 
lem, foQ  from  the  bridge  into  the  tiva-, 
in  whose  yeltow  bed  it  still  Te| 
will)  other  valuable  and  undescribed 
relies  of  ancient  art.  The  present 
bridge  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by 
PiusVIl.  inieiS.  The  old  h 
was  then  cut  into  the  form  of  a 
umphal  arch ;  statues  of  St.  John 
tiiii^  the  Saviour,  by  Mochi,  vera 
erected  on  iu  iiortliem  extremity,  and 
^  statues  of  the  Virgin  and  of  St.  John  of 
,  Nepomuc  on  its  southern  CTtreunty. 
I  On  tbc  night  of  the  13th  of  May,  1S49, 
j  during  the  siege  of  Home  bv  General 
Oudinot,  a  body  of  French  troop 
I  tempted  to  carry  the  bridge  by  a  c 

le  mines  which  had  long  been  laid, 
lid  blew  up  one  arch  of  ttie  venerable 
structure, —  thus  adding  another  point 
of  interest  to  the  catalogue  of 
evenlfnl  history.  The  bridge  wai 
stored  in  December  1849,  at  the^ew- 
pense  of  8000  scudi.  The  rive 
this  point  is  about  400  feet  in  breadth, 
hut  its  banks  are  bare  and  destitute  of 
limber,  and  its  colour  fully  justifies 
the  epithet  fiama  given  to  it  by  the 
lalin^ioeta.  TheCdssianWoyisjoini  ' 
',  b)  Uio  ¥\a.tQ\ftura  on  ftie  Tiortn  \rei 


Papal  StaiesJ]    route  27. — home. — Porta  del  Popola.       28T 


of  the  Tiber,  which  here   separated 
Etniria  from  Latium.     Beyond  the 
bridge,  on  a  low  bill,  is  the  interesting 
little  chapel  erected  by  Pius  II.  on 
the  spot  where  he  met  the  procession 
which  accompanied  the  head  of  St. 
Andrew  on  its  arrival  from  the  Pelo- 
ponnese  in  1462,  nine  years  after  the 
taking  of  Constantinople.     The  altar 
18  still  standing  on  which  this  pope 
celebrated  high  mass  before  he  carried 
the  head  with  his  own  hands  to  St. 
Peter*8,  where  it  has  ever  since  been 
preserved  among  the  most  precious 
relics  of  the  Holy  See.     A  straight 
road  now  leads  between  the  high  walls 
of  villas  and  gardens,  which  exclude 
all  view  of  the  city,  to  the  Porta  del 
Popolo,  passing  on  the  left  band  the 
elegant  church  of  St.  Andrew,  built 
by  Julius  III.  from  the  designs  of 
Vignola,  as  a  memorial  of  his  deliver- 
ance  on  St  Andrew's  day,  1527,  from 
the  German  soldiery  during  the  sack 
of  Rome  :  the  head  of  the  apostle  was 
\oDg  preserved  here.     Farther  on,  we 
pass  tiie  Casino  del  Papa  Giulio,  also 
dengned    by  Vignola   for  the   same 
pope,  and  finished  by  St.  Carlo  Bor- 
romeo ;  and  the  noble  Palazzo  Giulio, 
now  the  Casino  della  Reverenda  Ca- 
mera, another  fine  building  designed 
by  Vignola,  and  painted  in  fresco  by 
Taddco  Zuccari.       It  long  served  as 
the  temporary  residence  of  sovereigns 
and  ambassadors  previous    to    their 
public  entry  into  Rome.     Farther  on, 
we  pass  on  the  left  hand  the  gate  of  the 
Villa  Borghese,  and  nearly  opposite  to 
it  the  building  appropriated  as  the 
English  church. 

1  j-  Rome.  [From  Rome  to  La  Storta 
this  post  is  charged  as  2.  Passports 
are  demanded  at  the  gate,  and  unless  a 
latcia  passare  be  previously  lodged 
with  the  officer  by  the  banker  or  cor- 
respondent of  the  traveller,  the  car- 
riage must  proceed  to  the  Dogana, — a 
vexatious  arrangement,  from  which  a 
fee  of  five  or  ten  pauls  sometimes 
fails  to  procure  an  exemption,  lliis 
lascia  pattare  is  not  granted  to  per- 
sons travelling  by  public  carriages. 
A  fee  is  necessary  at  the  passport - 


office  to  prevent  delay  at  the  gate  ; 
from  three  to  five  pauls  is  expected 
from  those  who  travel  by  vetturino^ 
and  from  five  to  ten  from  those  who 
travel  post.  In  the  event  of  the 
luggage  being  taken  to  the  custom- 
house, a  timely  fee  to  the  searcher  will 
not  only  fkcilitate  matters,  but  will 
generally  make  the  examination  a  mere 
matter  of  form.  The  traveller  should 
be  on  his  guard  against  the  persons 
who  station  themselves  at  the  gates 
of  Rome  as  agents  for  the  I^ns.  These 
persons  endeavour  to  ascertain  the 
name  of  the  hotel  at  which  the  tra- 
veller intends  to  put  up,  and  then  re- 
present that  there  is  "  no  room,"  with 
the  view  of  dratvlng  them  to.,^notker 
house.  The  same  tripfe-ls  common 
with  vetturini  and  pOstboys.] 

Rome  is  entered  by  the  Porta  dd 
Popolo,  the  modem  substitute  for  the 
Porta^Flaminia,  which  stood  a  little 
to  the  east.     It  was  built  by  Vignola, 
from  the  designs  of  Michael  Angelo, 
in  1561,  during  the  pontificate  of  Pius 
IV.  It  has  four  columns  of  the  Doric 
order,  with  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul,  by  Mochi,  in  the  intercolum- 
niations.     The  inner  front  was  oma« 
mented  by  Alexander  VII.,  from  the 
designs  of  Bernini,  in  honour  of  the 
visit  of  Christina,  queen  of  Sweden,  in 
1657.    Although  this  entrance  fails  to 
excite  that  classical  enthusiasm  which 
no  traveller  can  repress  when  Rome  is 
entered  by  the  road  from  Naples,  it  is 
still  imposing,  in  spite  of  the  bad  taste 
of  many  of  its  architectural  details. 
The  gate   opens  upon   the  spacious 
Piazza  del  Popolo,  an  irregular  area  at 
the  foot  of  Monte  Pincio,  which  bounds 
it  on  the  left.      In  its  centre  rises  the 
fine  obelisk  of  Rhamses  I.,  one  of  the 
two  erected    by  that  great  king  in 
front  of  the  Temple  of  the  Sun   at 
Heliopolis,  the  On  of  Scripture,  whose 
site  is  now  only  marked  by  the  single 
obelisk  of  which  this  was  the  fellow. 
In  front,  the  twin  churches  of  Sta. 
Maria    in    Monte    Santo,    and    Sta. 
Maria    dc'    M\Taco\\,  \i\\A\.  >q^   Q,w- 
dinal    Gasta\d\,  \<^%aX.^    o^  "li^^o^^^ 
in  the  Tnidd\e  oi  t\ve  ^eN^rvN-^i^oJ^  ^«^ 


bol'teST. —  ROME.  — Innr.  [^Secl.  I, 

tuty,  in'iie  Ihr  three  street*  which  ■  mrellei.  The  prices  in  the  holds  are 
£nrge  fhnn  this  northern  entrance  I  much  test  in  tummcr  Ihao  in  iriolM : 
into  the  very  heart  of  l!ie  city.  The  ■  bedroom  on  tlie  ■»er»jre  cosU  from 
tnJildle  ilTeet.  calld  the  Oirto,  from  |  !  to  5  pnuts  ■  da^  ;  a  luite  oT apart- 
Uw  horse-rues  held  in  it  during  the  i  nients  for  five  or  ui  persons,  &am  SO 
CamiTal.  foUoirs  the  Vis  Flamio'ia  in    to  30  p»u!s  n  day  ;  iargw  loonu,  SO 

■  direcllinelothe  Capitol.  Thestreet  pauls ;  and  h>  on  up  to  50  panb  in 
Ht  the  right,  called  the  Hi  Ripeila, ;  proportion  to  the  BccoDimodatkm  and 
nins  parallel  to  the  led  bwik  of  the  tituslion  of  the  rooms.  Firing  aocl 
'Hber  to  the  qniy  called  the  Porto  di  '  candles  are  dear  at  the  iDn%  a  vdl 
Bipetta  :  the  (tieet  an  ibe  lelV.  called  as  foreitni  vrinei  or  every  description 
the  Ha  BabtoMO,  leads  to  the  Piuu  di  eicepi  Marsala.  Tiro  paula  a  day  far 
Spa^^iu.  ]  och  person  are  con^dered  itood  Jmj 

hut.  all  silustcd  at  this  eitretnll;  rorthescrTants.arKrrinuii  iseallei^ 
orihecily.vithin  the  trianfrular  space  |  at  the  Romao  hotels. 
lying  betiveen  the  Potut  del  Popolo,  Lodpinfi  in  prirate  houses,  mudi 
the  Plun  di  Spagna,  the  Vis  Con-  resetnlilinK  the  chambers  oTthe  itmsof 
dniti.  and  the  CotiJ>.  The  Europa.  in  |  court  in  London,  may  be  had  in  all 
the  liana  ^i  Spagua,  the  healthiest  psru  of  Home.  The  best  ntuatiooi  ara 
situation  in  RomE.  kept  by  Melga ;  |  the  Plana  di  Spagoa.  the  Via  Ba. 
an  inn  long  knowo  as  excellent  in  .  buino.  the  Comsandtheitreets  lyln^ 
every  respect,  but  dear,  with  a  tabic  '  between  them.  The  Slrada  Grego. 
d'hote  at  8  pauU  a  bead ;  the  charge  i  riana  and  the  Via  Sislina,  and  several 
for  ■  strparatc  dinner  i*  10  pauls,  se-  |  streelsnear  the  FontanaiU  Trevi.bave 
^rate  breakfiisl  5  piuls,  tn  3  pauls  |  iIm    (tood    lodging.liouu*.       StiVI- 

■  head;  servants  (with  a  dinner  at  the  i  gers  should  avoid  iltuatioos  unutadU 
couriers' tahladliolc).  7  pauls  each  per  atcly  under  the  hills,  particolarly 
diem.  The  Hotel  de  Landrs[Se>ni>,  where  the  house  has  been  built  doas 
mnd  the  Maison  Semi,  also  in  the  Pi-  '  to  the  tufa  rock,  so  that  the  bed-rooa 
■Da  di  SpBftna,  are  on  a  par  wiih  the  '  windows  cannot  have  a  free  cirenla- 
Europa.  Hotel  dcs  lies  Britanniques,  |  tioo  of  air.  All  houses  with  oanfined 
in  the  Piana  del  Popolo,  immediately  |  damp  courts  or  standing  water,  hmr- 
under  the  Pinc'ian ;  the  landlord  vas  J  ever  agreeable  they  may  be  rendered 
for  many  years  Maitre  d'Hatel  to  the  '  to  the  eye  by  trees  and  gardeat,  are 
late  Lady  Coventry.    Hotel  de  Hus-    especially  objectiausble.  particularlj 

La  Gran  Bretagna,  and  the  Hotel  ,  sidcrs  that  "the  streets  that  run  in  oo 
dc  Paris,  in  the  Via  Bnbuino-,  Hotel  '  cast  and  west  direction  ore  to  be  pre- 
d'Angleterre,  Via  Bocca  di  Leone, ,  ferrcd  to  those  rutming  north  attd 
a  luw  and  good  hotel,  witli  mo-  south,  as  they  are  less  exposed  10  cup- 
derate  charges,  and  a  table  d'hule  ai  rents  of  cold  air  during  the  prevaleiKa 
£  pauls;  Hotel  Spillmann.  in  the  I  of  north  winds,  and  the  houoes  hara 
Via  della  Croce,  with  a  tabla  d'hote  a  better  eiposure.  Both  the  aitriag 
M  fi  paula ;  Hotel  d'Allemagne,  in  the  I  and  bed-rooou  of  delicate  invidida 
Via  Condotti,  kept  by  Franj  f  whose  should,  if  possible,  have  a  soulbeni 
ftmily  hareposicswd  it  far  four  gene-  aspect,  Nervous  peruins  should  Iii« 
rations),  with  atobledliulcate  pauls;  in  the  more  open  and  elevated  ailtt- 
Hotel  detla  Jlinerva,  near  the  church  '  ations."  Tlie  price  for  a  fumisbcd 
of  (hat  name.  These  inns  stand  as  sitiing-rDom  and  Iwd-room  in  sunrem 
nearly  a*  posnble  in  thiiir  order  of  in  a  good  situation  is  now  from  six  lo 

hops  nearly  «]ual,  and  indeed  their  eighteen  in  wiater.  Suites  of  apart- 
tnaamgaaeat  and  comforts  Icsvc  little  raeoti  far  families  may  be  rcekoDcd 
to  be  demind  by  ihe  moH  bitidioui  ,'iiiiitoi^TU(Kv,Witiw;de{iefKlp«all7 


Paptd  States^}     boute  27. — home, — TraUarie,  Cafis. 


289 


on  the  demand,  the  season,  and  the 
situation.  After  the  holy  week,  for  in- 
stance, the  price  of  lodgings  generally 
Vi  lowered  nearly  one  half.  A  good 
ritting-room,  with  three  bed>rooms 
and  a  kitchen,  in  the  fashionable 
quarter,  costs  on  the  average  from  SO 
to  35  scudi  a  month.  In  the  streets 
which  lie  beyond  the  ordinary  beat 
of  English  visitors,  as  in  the  Strada 
Giulia,  and  the  retired  streets  near 
the  Piazza  di  Spagna,  the  same  ac- 
commodation may  be  obtained  for  less 

m 

than  half  this  sum.  In  these  streets, 
for  example,  bachelors  may  get  very 
good  lodgings  from  11  to  14  scudi  a 
month,  which  in  the  principal  streets 
would  be  from  20  to  30.  No  general 
rule,  however,  can  be  laid  down  to 
which  some  traveller  cannot  adduce 
an^  exception.  However  respectable 
the  landlord  may  appear,  a  formal 
written  agreement  (patto)  is  desirable, 
and  a  careful  verification  of  the  inven- 
tory still  more  so.  It  is  also  advisable 
to  insert  in  the  agreement  the  clause 
'*  meno  che  Vuso,'*  as  a  provision  against 
wear  and  tear.  In  the  Corso,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  stipulate  for  the  exclusive 
possession  of  the  windows  during  the 
Carnival,  or  the  lodger  may  be  sur- 
prised to  find  his  apartments  converted 
Into  show-rooms  during  the  festivities, 
besides  being  obliged  to  pay  for  a  place 
at  his  own  window.  In  the  court  of 
every  house  there  is  usually  a  well, 
from  which  the  different  sets  of 
lodgers  supply  themselves  with  water 
by  means  of  buckets  traversing  a  fixed 
iron  rod,  so  ns  to  avoid  the  necessity 
of  descending  from  the  upper  floors. 
The  arrangement  of  this  simple  ma- 
chinery is  often  one  of  the  ^rst  ob- 
jects which  arrest  the  attention  of  the 
stranger  on  his  arrival  in  Rome. 
Wood,  as  we  have  already  remarked, 
is  dear ;  a  cart-load,  including  porter- 
age, seldom  costs  less  than  3  scudi. 
A  single  person  generally  pays  1  to 
2  scudi  a  month  fur  attendance.  The 
wages  of  female  servants  are  from  4 
to  6  scudi  a  month,  and  their  board. 

Trattorie,  —  In  private  lodgings  vi- 

siton  an  mpplied  with  their  dinner 

/rom  the  trMUorUat  a  certain  rate  per 


head,  varying  from  4  to  10  pauls. 
For  4  pauls,  the  trattorle  in  the  P.  di 
Spagna  will  send  soup,  3  kinds  of 
meat,  2  kinds  of  vegetables,  and  a  pud- 
ding. The  dinners  are  sent  in  baskets 
lined  with  tin  and  heated  by  a  brazier 
of  charcoal,  and  are  generally  very 
good.  Many  persons,  particularly 
bachelors,  prefer  dining  at  the  trat- 
toria; but  although  there  are  many 
of  these  establishments,  they  are  far 
inferior  to  those  of  other  Italian  capi- 
tals,  and  a  good  restaurateur  is  still 
one  of  the  desiderata  of  Rome.  The 
following  are  the  best:  Scalinata,  in 
the  Piazza  di  Spagna,  price  of  a  din- 
ner with  wine,  3  to  4  pauls ;  nearly  all 
the  most  eminent  English  artists  dine 
and  sup  here  daily,  after  which  they 
adjourn  either  to  the  Caf^  Nazari  or 
the  Cafi^  Greco ;  Lepri,  in  theVia  Con- 
dotti ;  Polidoro,  in  the  Corso,  near  the 
P.  Colonna;  Bertini,  in  the  Corso; 
Falcone,  near  the  Pantheon,  celebrated 
for  the  national  dishes  oftrijgpa  and  <««• 
ticcinola  (lamb's  brains  fried);  Armel- 
lino,  in  the  Piazza  Sciarra. 

Cafes,  —  Nazari,  in  the  Piazza  di 
Spagna,  the  best  in  Rome,  famous  for 
its  chocolate  and  poncio  spongato,  with 
^n  excellent  confectioner's  shop  adjoin- 
ing ;  Caf^  Nuovo,  in  the  Palazzo  Rus- 
poii,  in  the  Corso,  with  a  garden  and 
several  billiard-tables,  a  good  and  hand- 
some establishment  much  frequented 
by  the  Roman  nobility;  Greco,  in  the 
Via  Condotti,  the  celebrated  rendez- 
vous of  artists  of  all  nations,  in  which 
smoking  is  allowed;  the  Germans 
have  a  room  there  which  is  called  their 
own;  all  the  artists  in  Rome, almost 
without  exception,  may  be  found  there 
at  breakfast  at  seven  in  the  morning. 
Cafe  Veneziano,  in  the  Piazza  Sciarra ; 
Cafe  de*  Babbioni,  on  Monte  Citorio^ 
frequented  by  a  club  of  philosophers 
and  professors,  under  the  direction  of  a 
president ;  the  Cafe  of  the  Fontana 
Trevi,  the  resort  of  the  antiquaries. 
Breakfast  at  a  cafe  costs  from  1  to  2 
pauls  including  waiters;  a  single  cup  of 
coffee  2  bajocchi.  lu  «\V  \Vv!^  ^^^'s 
strangers  mu^  ca^  fex  \KAUya  Vj^'^ 
shop),  and  not  tot  XV^  N?^\\ftx,M>iNvK^ 
I  wish  to  be  s^rvedu 


SBO       BOiTtB  27.--4H>lift — Madmtif  C^KTiapa,  Sf^  •^SeM.T^ 


Bookitllfrt  and  Btaiiitig- Roam:  — 
Monsldini,  in  the  Piaua  di  Spagnai 
Mading-roDRis  supplied  with  Ihe  Lon- 
don  daily  newipapera,    Galignani,  e 
■nikll  Englnh  library,  md  a  gooit  col- 
Icetioa  of  guide-boaki,  mapM,  kc,  oj 
Kdine  md  its  vicinity.      An  address- 
book  it  kepi  here,  in  which  strangers 
■liould  eater  their  nsmei  aiid  addr 
«■  arriving  in  Rome.    The  eharge 
the  reading-room  i»  S  Ecudi  a  taoa 
Piile,  formerly  Monaldini's  principal 
■■DiitBDt,  has  now  a  similar  establish. 
ment,  at  a.  PUeeb  di  Spagna.    Galle- 
lini.    bookseller,    19.    Piai™    Mont* 
Cxtoiio,  sells  EnglUh  books  at  Englisli 
prices,  and  is  well  spoken  of  as  very 
oblipog    and    respectable-       Merle, 
VVeneh  bookseller,  348.  CoraD.  Spilh- 
orer.   German  bookseller,    Piaz»  di 
Spognn.      The  prioe  of  the  white  vel- 
Itim  binding  for  which    Rome  is 

i»  is  Spauls  for  a  19ino..and  for 
s  In  proportion.      Moscbelli  is  a 
bookbinder,  75.  ViadelU  Croee. 
reading-room  In  the  Piaiza  Co- 
.  has  the  Italian  and  French  )ia~ 
Galignani,  and  tlio  AUgemoine 
itung;  charge,  5  haj.  a  ------    - 

paiils  a  month. 

£t<glith  CTub.— There  is  an  English 
dub  at  No.  1 1.  Via  Coiidotii,  mi 
naged  by  a  committee  of  Englls 
{{aitlemen.  Candidates  fur  admissic 
must  be  proposed  end  seconded  by 
nembers,  as  in  tba  dubs  of  London. 
.  Hatimy  Carriasa  <  Pitfa«>  open 
ealecbes  with  a  hood,  are  met  with  in 
d^mt  parts  of  the  city;  the  prin- 
ripal  stands  are  the  Piaiza  di  Spsgna, 
Monte  Citorio.  the  Corso,  near  the  Vis 
Conaotti,endthe  Piaata  of  St.  Peter's, 
about thetimeordisine service.  Pares, 
fitrliaHan  hour  2  or  S  pauls ;  with  four 
persons,  4  pauls  j  when  taken  hy  the 
hmir,  4  pan's  for  the  first  hour,  3  for 
Ihe  secniid ;  10  paula  for  a  course  of 
ibur  hours,  and  by  the  day  3  scudi.  A 
bargain  should  be  mads  before  start.- 
ing.  Some  of  the  masters  of  hotels  let 
carriages  at  the  rale  of  25  pauls  a  day 
•ritbln  the  walk;  this  is  not  only 
cheaper  than  the  hire  af  hackney  ont- 
riagen  but  more  dE'siralile  on  account 
o^tbe  aupenar  characteT  of  the  vehielt 


other 
^^■^na 


and  hoTses.  A  good  private  carriage  by 
the  month,  costs  from  60  to  100  scudi 
BMordiiig  to  the  demand.    The  coach- 
man expects  at  least  6  scudi  a  month, 
beeideB    a    small    gratuity    on    New 
Year's  day,  and  at  the  Carniral. 

dccroHi,  or    Vahlt-df-piah,  one  of 
the  necessary  evils  of  Home,    TraTe" 
lers  must  be  cautious  in  receiving  t) 
dicta  of  these  personages  as  authority 
in  matters  of  antiquity,  for  each  ' 
his  own  theory.    Unfottunately  few  of 
them  arc  beyond  suspiciou )  they  no- 
toriously eiact  commissions  from  the 
tradesmen,  anii  sbould  therefore  nerer 
be  allowed  to  accompany  strangen  to 
the  shops.   The  charge  of  a  good  cice- 
rone is  fi-om  5  to  10  pauls  a  day. 

Pott-  Office. — Not  withstanding  their 
daily  eiperience,  the  officers  of  tha 
Italian    post-offices  are   still    so  un- 
skilful in  making  out  English  hand- 
writing,   that   letters   are  frequently 
sorted  under  wrong  initials,  slid  a 
therefore    never    delivered    to    their 
proper  owners-     It  is  much  safer  ti 
address  letters  to  the  care  of  Bom> 
banker  or  merchant,  or  to  the  land 
lord  of  some  respectable  hotel,  thai 
to  the  "poste  rcslante."    The  Ibreign 
mails,    wilh   the  eiception    of  those 
fima   Naples,    arrive  and   leave   five 
times  B'Wcek,  on  Mondays,  Tuesdays. 
'I^iursilays,   Fridays,  and   Satardaya- 
Lctters    are    delivered    between    10 
and  2  F.  M.      Foreign  letters  are  de- 
spatched    on     IVlondays,     TuesdRysv 
Thursdays,   Fridays,   and   Saturday 
On   Mondays,    Tuesdays,  Thursda;^ 
and    Fridays,  letters  mtist  be  posted 
belbre  3  p.u.,  and  on  Saturdays  be- 
fore 5  P.M.      The  postage  of  a  ain|Ie 
letter  to  England,  hy  the  land  route, 
is  15  hajocchi,  that  in  to  say,  to  the 
Papnl  frontier,  beyond  which  it  is  not 
possible  to  prepay.      By    tljis  route, 
letters  take   II   days  from  Rome  to 
London  ;  if  sent  by  the  French  steam- 
ers, through  Marseilles,  they  take  9 
days  to  London  ;  and  the  postage  to 
~*  '       Veochia,  beyond  which  it  is 
......_     bla  10  prepay,  is  half  a  paul. 

The  poslage  ftom  England  is  34  ba- 
ijoccW-,   VeWCTs   Vifti   cnie\a^w,   kb 


Papal  States,']     r.  £7. — rome. — Mucelianeous  Notices.         291 


.paul  each.  The  Naples  mails  arrive 
on  Mondays,  Thursdays,  Fridays,  and 
Saturdays,  and  leave  on  the  same*  days 
and  hours  as  the  other  foreign  mails, 
except  on  Fridays,  when  the  letters 
for  Naples  must  be  posted  before  1 
r.M.  On  Tuesday  morning  a  mail 
arrives  from  the  towns  between  Flo- 
rence and  Rome  on  the  Perugia  road. 
Letters  from  England  not  directed  to 
the  care  of  'a  banker  at  Rome  should 
be  plainly  and  legibly  directed  ac- 
cording to  the  foreign  usage.  The 
Englidi  mode  is  understood,  though 
instances  have  occurred  in  which  the 
Esq,  has  led  to  mistakes  which  are 
more  amusing  than  convenient. 

Roman  Time.  —  It  is  necessary  to 
apprise  the  stranger  in  Rome  that  the 
computation  of  time  difiers  entirely 
from  the  ordinary  system  of  Europe. 
Tlie  clocks  are  not  only  generidly 
made  to  show  and  strike  6  hours 
only,  but  they  are  regulated  by  the 
setting  of  the  sun,  the  twenty -fourth 
hour  being  fixed  at  Ave  Maria,  or 
half  an  hour  after  sunset.  One  o'clock 
is  therefore  an  hour  and  a  half  after 
sunset,  and  from  marking  only  6 
hours,  they  strike  and  point  to  I  at 
the  7th,  13th,  and  19th  hours.  The 
result  of  this  system  is  obvious ;  the 
hours  of  mid-day  and  midnight  are 
constantly  changing  with  the  season ; 
in  December,  mid-day  is  19,  and  in 
June  it  is  16.  It  would  have  been 
much  more  simple  and  convenient  to 
have  reckoned  from  some  fixed  point, 
as  at  noon;  for,  from  the  perpetual 
necessity  for  calculating  the  existing 
system,  few  strangers  think  it  worth 
while  to  trouble  themselves  about  it. 
The  great  objection,  however,  is  the 
uselessness  of  the  Roman  clocks  to 
those  who  do  not  understand  the  mode 
of  computation. 

English  Church.  —  The  first   place 
in  which  the  Church  of  England  ser- 
vice was  publicly  performed  in  Rome  ] 
was  the   Palazzo  Corea,  close  to  the  ' 
Mausoleum  of  Augustus.      For  some  ' 
years  post  it  has  been  performed  in  a 
^■^e  granary  outside  the  Porta  del ' 
Popolo.     Divine  service  is  celebrated 
tn^Jce  every   Sunday   from  the  first 


Sunday  of  October  to  tlie  end  of 
June,  the  hours  being  1 1  and  3.  The 
church,  which  will  now  contain  nearly 
800  persons,  is  supported  by  voluntary 
contributions,  which  are  collected  at 
the  residences  of  visitors  who  leave 
their  names  at  the  church  door.  At- 
tached  to  the  church  is  a  lending^ 
library  of  religious  books,  which  are 
distributed  on  Sundays  to  all  sub- 
scribers to  the  church  who  may  ask 
for  them.  None  of  the  seats  in  the 
church  are  appropriated.  The  resi- 
dent clergyman  is  the  Rev.  Francis 
B.  Woodward. 

PhysieiaTU.  —  Dr.  Deakin,  S3.  Via 
della  Mercede,  who  goes  to  the  baths 
of  Lucca  during  the  summer  months. 
Dr.  Pantaleoni,  107.  Via  Babuino,  an 
Italian  physician,  educated  in  Paris 
and  in  Vienna,  practises  much  among 
our  countrymen,  and  speaks  English 
perfectly.  The  usual  fee  is  2  scudi 
a  visit.  The  best  Apothecary  and  Drug- 
gist is  Signer  Borioni,  98.  Via  Ba- 
buino. All  his  medicines  are  as  good 
as  they  are  at  Apothecaries'  Hall;  and 
he  procures  the  most  important  direct 
from  England. 

Bankers, — Messrs.  Torlonia  &  Co. ; 
Messrs.  Freeborn  &  Co.,  Via  Condotti. 
The  principal  of  the  latter  house  is 
the  British  Consular  agent.  Messrs. 
Plowden,  Cholmely  &  Co.,  234.  Cor- 
so,  a  branch  of  the  Florence  house  of 
Plowden  and  French ;  Messrs.  Mac- 
bean  and  Co.,  Corso ;  Mcssrs.Maquay, 
Packenham,  and  Hooker. 

Teachers  of  Languages. —  Sigiior 
Guerini,  76.  Piazza  di  Spagna,  has 
spent  some  time  in  England,  and 
speaks  English  and  French  fluently ; 
Signor  Bonfigli  (teacher  of  Greek 
and  Latin  also),  has  likewise  spent 
some  time  in  England  as  tutor  in  the 
&milies  of  Sir  R.  Throgmorton,  and 
Lady  Granville — to  be  heard  of  at 
Monaldini's  ;  Signor  Velerio  Pal- 
mierc,  41.  Via  llagclla;  Signor  Lu- 
centini,  17.  Via  della  Stampcria  Ca- 
merale  (teacher  of  Greek  and  Latin 
also) ;   Signor  Brocchi,  84..  Vvianss.  ^v 

•  V'iade\\aCiott\  ^v^xvot\ox\.>xcv^A^;^ 
I  beard  oi  ml  aw  o^  W\e  V\\^^vx^^^^n  ^ 

o  1 


99S         aomni  aiT.  •^Munt—Mitdhmem  Xatk^    £Sect.  I. 


Jnckun,  3.  Piniu  del  Fopolo,  edu- 
cated BI  the  Kcole  Polyteubniijuc  nl 
Paris,  on  cxctlleni  Fiencli  uholar,  ■    ' 
tr*nil>tur  of  IldUn  and  French  it 
Eoglilb.    JiaHan  Mutrai — Slgnoti 
Geanni  Eiuely.   Englith  Daily  Gor. 
ne$i  —  Signora  Gueiini,  an   Engli 
lady,  uiariied  to  S.  Guerini  mentiancd 

baths  of  LucpB  in  tbu  EummFT. 

Miaic  and  Sieging.— Si^nor  Gaggt, 
PUuui  di  Spigna  ( 10  pauU  ■  lesson) ; 
Signor  RcimualdD  Archini ;  Sgiiiii 
HuTsUi,  10.  Piaiia  Hosa. 

J^mirin^. — Signur  Kocchi,  14.  Ripa 
del  Fiume  (chalk  and  sepia);  Sig- 
Dorina  AgncEC  Ituffiiii,  8.  I'lHtia  Cni- 
eiferi  (ii-Bti;r  colours  on  paper,  i>ur7, 
and  marble,  and  miniatures). 

Drawiag  MateriaU Wad,  Hayard, 

43.  Piaua  ill  ^paguai  Doiiielli,  |3^. 
ViaBabuino;  Frraia,  42.  Via  Con- 
dolti ;  and  104.  Due  Alacelli.  The 
\  French  iinitalions  of  Newman's  eo- 
/  lours  are  very  bod,  althougli  diSicult 
to  be  distinguished  from  the  genuine 
eKcept  bj  trial. 

Engriaeri  of  Cameot  ( Shelli.  Con- 
cAf^^ie).  — GioTanni  Dies,  Via  dells 
Croce  1  SauUni.  S.  Via  della  Croce ; 
Civilotlo.  30.  Via  Condotli ;  Ncri, 
Via  della  Croce.  J-fci™  iJaro— Giro- 
tnelt'i.  49.  Via  Quiriiiale,  tlie  fitM  artist 
living  in  tbis  branch  uf  art ;  Verge, 
61.  Piazza  di  Spagua;  Fedcli,  81. 
Via  Vitloria.  Afwaic  —  Cav,  Lulgi 
MogUa,  56.  Via  della  FrciiB,  whcue 
celebrated  work  representing  □□  a 
wale  of  seven  feet  the  Temples  of 
Pratum,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  mo- 
saic of  modem  times;  Car.  Bsrberl, 
148.  Via  Rasella,  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  inosaicista  in  Italy;  8 
Verdejo;  5.  VitBli,74.  Via  Babuino) 
S.  Haffaelli  (Tables,  &c.).  93.  Vis 
Sabuina ;  S.  Caprani  (Landscapes, 
&c  ),  56.  Via  Coaaulta  ;  S.  Frances- 
cangeli,  135.  Via  Babuino.  Gtmi, 
Intaytiand  ImptvuU ( Sulphur Casti) — 
Odelli,  II.  Via  Quattro  Fontane 
(Coins);  Paoletti,  49.  Piazza  di 
Spagnaf  Iiiberotti,  Via  Babuino. 
Sivnxet  —  Ho^arten,  72.  Via  due 
Macelli;  Capiiti,  70.  Via  Hipetta;' 
liobridi,  34.  Via  ddla  Z'urificiiiione  i 


Caniiletti  (Lamps,  Ca: 
70.  Via  delln  Stampoi 
S9.  Via  Quattro  Fontane;  De'  Rossi, 
22.  Via  Condotli.  .^iid-TairiM— Capre- 
nesi,  137.  Corso;  Basseg:glo,  42.  Via 
Bnbuluu;  Dessoleiti,  31.  Fonlanella 
BoTgbcse ;  Maldura,  54.  Via  Vittoria. 
Scagliala — Stefano  Angel  ini,  JeaeBerM 
(far  mounting  Cameos  and  Mosaics), 
Castelloni,  1T4.  Corso;  Bruner,  46. 
Via  Gregoriana ;  Pierret  (working 
jeweller),  55.  Via  Borgogna. 

CopyitU  of  tht  old  Mtuteri  (in  aiT), 
Cav.  Chutelain,  SS6.  Via  Hipetta,  the 
most  extensive  copyist  in  Italy; 
Giuseppe  Manolini,  Via  Qualtni 
Fontane ;  Campanile,  39.  Via  Hi- 
petta;    Tierlenk,   3.    Capo  le    Cose. 

Ruffini,  8.  Piaiia  Crociferi;  Gsgliardi, 
Falazio  Giustinioni.  Our  country- 
woman. Miss  Chawner,  6.  Via  Lau- 
admirable  copyist  of  the 


old  ma 
<-orks  < 


Her 


lyhrka  of  art  are  regularly  d^ 
spatclicd  to  England  by  Signor  Carlo 
Trebbi,  Via  Condotli;  Messrs.  Free- 
born &  Ca  thebankera;  Messrs.  Mac- 
bean  &  Co.,  the  baokers;  and  Signor 
Brancbini  at  tbe  English  CoUege- 

Enjrarers,  ^ The  great  collec- 
tion of  engravings  is  that  of  the  go- 
vernmenl,  the  Calcografia  Camerale, 
6.  Via  della  Stamperia,  near  the  Fon- 
tana  Trevi.      Catalogues  are  hung  up 

each  print  marked.  All  the  engrav- 
ings executed  at  the  expense  of  the 
papal  government,  may  be  purchased 
here,  at  a  moderate  price.  FuId,  13- 
Piazza  diSpagna,  as  an  historical  en- 
graver, maintains  Ibe  reputation  for 
which  his  father  was  for  many  years 
distinguished.  Their  burin  has  dif- 
fused the  knowledge  of  some  first-rate 
pictures.  Carlo  Schulti,  5.  Piazia 
Monle  d'Oro,  near  the  Forum  of 
Trajan,  sells  engravings  after  Over- 
beck  and  the  German  artists ;  Pabri, 
3.  Capo  le  Case;  Caccioni,  19.  Via 
r._„i-.i-.  .    c ,    an    V,-  r 


Papal  States."]    R.  27. — rome. — 3fiscellaneous  Notices,        29^ 


of  Views  in  Rome  is  the  excellent  series 
of  etchings  published  by  Deodato 
Minelli,  19.  Via  della  Croce.  A 
very  beautiful  series  of  views  of 
Rome  has  been  published  by  one 
of  our  own  most  accomplished  ama^ 
teur  artists,  Mr.  George  Vivian,  well 
known  from  his  previous  illustrations 
of  the  scenery  of  Spain  and  PortugaL 
The  title  of  the  work,  **  Views  from 
the  Gardens  of  Rome  and  Albano, 
drawn  by  G.  Vivian,  Esq.  Litho- 
graphed by  Harding.  London,  1 848," 
conveys  an  imperfect  idea  of  its  ex- 
tent; it  embraces,  under  a  highly 
artistic  and  picturesque  form,  and 
with^very  great  accuracy,  the  prin- 
cipal ancient  and  modern  monuments 
within  and  without  the  city,  with 
views  of  the  Campagna,  of  Albano, 
Ostia,  Castel  Fusano,  &c.,  and  is 
accompanied  by  exquisite  vignettes 
of  detached  edifices,  and  a  short  ex- 
planatory text.  Small  oil  paintings, 
coloured  on  the  etchings  of  the  ruins 
and  public  edifices  of  Rome,  are  pret- 
tily executed  by  Signor  Pfyffer,  74. 
Via  della  Croce.  They  do  not  pretend 
to  compete  with  the  original  works  of 
the  landscape  painters,  but  are  useful 
as  reminiscences  or  as  presents. 

English  fVarehouse9,for  tea,  groceries, 
wines,  porter,  &c.  —  Lowe,  in  the 
Piazza  di  Spagna;  Campi,  opposite 
the  Europa.  fVine  Merchant*, — Ex- 
cellent wines  may  be  bad  of  Messrs. 
Macbean  &  Co.,  Corso.  Best  English 
bread,  50.  Via  della  Croce.  Good 
milkf  butter,  and  eggs  are  sold  by 
Neri,  60.  Vicolo  Scavolino,  near  the 
Footana  di  Trevi;  milk  4  b%j.  the 
foglie,  butter  3  p.  per  lb.,  eggs  3  baj. 
each.  Ttte  best  butter  is  sold  at  the 
Doria  Palace  early  on  the  mornings 
of  Wednesday  and  Saturday;  only 
1  lb.,  however,  is  sold  to  each  ap- 
plicant. Butter  is  also  sold  at  the 
llospigliosi  Palace.  By  a  decree  of 
the  municipal  commission  in  1849, 
all  dealers  in  meat,  oil,  and  bread 
were  ordered  to  make  a  weekly  de- 
claration of  the  prices  at  which  they 
sell  those  articles^  and  to  keep  a  list 
of  the  priccM  affiled  in  their  shops. 


House  Agent. — Families  having  apart* 
ments  in  Rome,  and  wishing  to  leave 
them  in  charge  during  their  absence^ 
may  safely  entrust  them  to  Signor 
Sertori,  the  well-known  and  intelli- 
gent agent  of  the  English  church. 
Tailors,  —  Hamilton,  Via  Babuiuo; 
Reanda,  Piazza  de*  SS.  Apostoli. 
Boot  and  Shoe-makers,  —  Weatherdon, 
Via  Babuino ;  Natalini,  Piazza  S. 
Carlo  al  Corso.  Tt^cco  Shops,  — * 
There  are  fewer  of  these  establish* 
ments  in  Rome  than  in  any  other 
Italian  capital.  Tobacco  is  a  mono* 
poly  of  the  government,  and  the  manu- 
facture is  susceptible  of  great  improve^ 
ment.  The  principal  warehouse  for 
foreign  snuffs  and  cigars  is  the  Con- 
vertttif  in  the  Corso.  There  is  also 
a  Spaccio  cTEecezione,  in  the  Via  Con- 
dottL  English  Livery  Stables. — Smith 
keeps  good  livery  stables  at  Palazzo 
Gregori,  Via  de*  due  Macelli,  and  will 
supply  horses  by  the  month  or  season. 
The  landlord  of  the  Hotel  d*Alle- 
magne  is  an  extensive  owner  of  car* 
riages  and  horses  for  hire.  Barfoot  is 
a  good  Saddler.  Good  vetturino  ear^ 
riages  may  be  obtained  of  Luigi  Per- 
nini  e  figli,  at  the  Stelletto,  19.  in  the 
Campo  Marzo. 

Sporting, — The  sportsman's  license 
in  Rome  costs  only  3  pauls,  and  by 
an  ordonnance  of  Leo  X 1 L  the  gates 
are  open  at  all  hours  to  every  one 
who  answers  to  the  challenge,  Coteci- 
atore.  The  great  sporting  of  Rome  19 
the  boar-hunt,  in  the  forests  of  Cis« 
terna  and  Nettuno.  A  party  for  this 
purpose  is  organised  once  a  season 
by  Signor  Vallati,  an  accomplished 
artist,  who  has  acquired  great  fame 
as  a  painter  of  wild  boars,  which  he 
represents  to  the  life.  The  interest 
of  the  expedition  is,  of  course,  much 
increased  by  his  long  expecience  and 
local  knowledge.  The  shooting  sea- 
son begins  in  October,  with  snipes^ 
quails,  and  larks.  As  winter  advances 
the  birds  of  passage  become  abundant* 
and  woodcocks,  partridges,  &c.  afford 
constant  sport.  The  wlld-Co^V  s^<c)R^«> 
,  ing  oC  iVift  VoxiXa  'VAxcwkO  >Kas.  \sftwv 
made  iVxe  ^uV^ecX  o^  «.  >^ivccCvcv%\s' 


nnd 


tabic. 


nooTK  97i— ^fflafc. — PtMu  Peatieeft.        {^e«.-  Ti 

r  tlii^  Cutnivnl  arc  Ibu  most  ev- 

igregatud  ill  Ihe  Corso.  Tlie 
1  delicacy  uf  tlie  Ro-  divvrsiona  end  with  tlie  MatecU,  whan 
he  niDskera  appear  with  lighted  ta- 
len,  and  endeavour  to  blov  out  the 
ights  of  others  while  they  keep  in 
heir  own.  TVie  OOaber  Fettical.  — 
On  Sundays  and  Thuradaya  in  Oclv- 
ber,  the  people  assemble  on  Monle 
Testaccia  and  in  the  Borghese  Cu- 


7»«Hh. The  yoUe,  between  tbe 

Pantheon  and.  the  Piaiia  NsTona,  Tor 
operas  and  plays.  The  AryealiKo,  in 
the  Vin  della  llotonda,  foe  opersa. 
Both  uf  these  are  open  from  Christ- 
mils  to  Lent.  The  Jp'illimr,  ot  Ihr- 
diiuma,  in  tbe  Via  Tordinona,  for 
grand  aperm.    The  Altfrti,  behind  the 

theCamivnl.  Tlie  JtlrluiEiuiD,  new  and 
loudi  firequeiited,  fur  comedy,  &c. 
The  BuniHiai,  the  popular  /awfutciBf 
of  aeme.  The  price  of  admisaion  is 
the  same  at  all  the  great  theatres,  vb. 
3  pauU.  A  box  ooits  from  15  to  20 
pauls  a  night.  During  the  sensiia  it 
ii  lery  difficult  to  obtain  a  box  at  tlie 
three  great  thestres,  the  Valle,  Ar- 
gentina, and  Apollone.  The  best  plan 
ii  to  secure,  if  possible,  a  part  of  a  box 

always  be  aceomplished.  Tbe  doors 
ure  open  two  hours  after  Aye  Maria. 
Public  Fatitah.  _  The  Caml.al 
begins  properly  after  Christmas  Day, 
and  continuea  until  the  beginning  of 
Lent;  the  masking  takes  place  only 
during  the  last  ci^t  days,  eiclusive  ol 
the  Sundays  and  Fridays.  At  9  r.  ti. 
(lie  maskers  assemble  in  (he  Corso, 
where  the  pelting  with  oomBls  mann- 
ftiotured  for  the  purpose  {eimfilti  di 
^Hsn)  is  carried  on  until  Ave  Maria. 
The   amusements  of  each   aFlemoan 

have  no  riders,  but  are  urged  on  by 

books.     The  pi 
of  rich  velvet,  or  sums  of  money,  va- 
rying from  90  to  lOOacudi:  they  an 
furnished  by  the  Jews,  who  were  for- 
merly compelled  to  race  on  foot  foi 
the  amuaement  of  Ibe  people.      Thi 
horsei  are  slopped  at  the  end  of  tin 
Corso  by  a  piece  of  canvas  suf^ended 
acroa  the  street  at  the  Kipreaa  de' 
Barberi,  which  derives  its  name  from 
tbe  Barbary  horses  CliBC  formerly 
leiiJed  for  tbe  pvhes.      The  bsl  I 


ded  from 


1 


with  dancing  and  games.  This  is  the 
grcut  boliday  of  Rome,  and  nowhere 
are  the  people  seen  to  w  much  ad- 
vantage. As  a  study  of  costume  this 
festival  U  quite  unrivalled.  The^r- 
Ijiti*  Ftilinal,  managed  chiefly  by  tbe 
Germane,  ukes  place  at  the  end  of 
April  or  the  beginning  of  May.  Ar- 
^sts  ot  all  nations  assemble  at  an 
early  breakfast  at  the  Torre  de'  Sehi- 
Bvi,  about  3  miles  froro  Home,  whence 
they  adjourn  in  Kolcmn  procession  to 
the  subterranean  grottoes  at  Cerbara. 
After  an  incantation  of  (he  Sibyl, 
singing,  speechifying,  and  diatribniion 
'  mock  orders,  &e.  tlicre  is  a  cold 
mer,  about  I  e,  u.,  followed  by 
rae-raclng,  spear  throwing,  &c.  All 
the  hack  horses  and  carriages  in  Rome 
ire  put  In  requisition,  and  the  artists 
.hemselves  barrow  from  their  lay 
igurea  the  gayest  or  most  grotesque 
Iresses  in  their  store.  Tickeh  "  " 
linner  are  conRoed  tc 
heir  friends,  but  speetalori  ai 
idmitted  t        '  '  ' 

festivities.      The  artists  of  all  n. 
-esident  in  Rome  may  be  said  to  form 
and  it  is  an  honour- 


Tickets  for  the 
tbe  artists  and 
alori  are  freely  I 


ible 


n  spea: 


so  many  different  languages  n^ 
Rome  upon  common  ground,  as  it 
there  were  no  distinction  of  eoimtry 
among  those  whom  Art  has  BSsociated 
in  her  pursuit  Tlie  Chnrch  Fatiealt 
are  described  in  the  accounts  of  the 
following  basilicas  and  churches:  — 
St.  Peter-a,  St.  John  LaUran,  S.  Maria 
Meggiore,  S.  Andrea  delle  Fratte, 
S.  Antonio,  SS.  Apostoli,  Ara  Cieli, 
S.  Carlo  in  CotBO,  B.  Fiwocesoa  Uo- 

mana,  Gesd,  S.  MaTeeWo,  S.WstM.; 

S.  Mar'ia  sopra  Mmetva,  S.  ^\B.TVa™ 


J^eqMMl  Stales.^  &•  27. — home. — Government  and  Statistics.  295 


VaUieeUa,  &  Fietro  in  Vinooli,  S. 
Tommaso  degli  Inglesi,  Trinita  de' 
PeUegrinL 

GovsuMMXNT,  Statistics,  &c. 

The  cardinals,  who  rank  as  princes, 
4ind  elect  the  pope  out  of  their  own 
body,  constitute  the  Sacred  College,  all 
iracancies  in  which  are  filled  up  by  the 
reigning  pontiff  Their  number  Is 
&eventy-two»  but  the  college  is  seldom 
fulL  The  gOTernment  is  administered 
by  a  cardinal  secretary  of  state  as  chief 
minister,  and  by  the  following  boards 
•or  **  eongregazioni  : "  the  Camera 
Apostolica,  or  financial  department, 
presided  over  by  the  Cardinal  Camer- 
Jengo ;  the  Cancelleria,  presided  over 
'by  the  Cardinal  Cancelliere ;  and  the 
JDataiia,  an  ecclesiastical  department 
•binder  the  Cardinal  Pro-datario.  To 
these  may  be  added  another  ecclesias- 
tical chamber,  called  the  Penitensieria, 
or  secret  Inquisition,  over  which  a 
.cardinal  presides. 

llie  principal  municipal  officers  of 
Rome  are  the  Senator  and  the  Gro- 
■  pernor.  The  Senator  is  always  a 
Aoble  of  high  rank,  and  superintends 
the  public  processions,  &o.  The 
■Governor  has  the  direction  of  the 
police  of  the  city.  In  1847,  the  mu- 
nicipal council,  which  had  disappeared 
for  centuries,  was  re-established  by 
Pius  IX.  by  a  decree  promulgated  in 
September  of  that  year.  This  decree 
established  a  municipal  council  and  an 
executive  magistracy  for  the  city  and 
the  adjacent  territory,  by  which  tiie 
pope  intended  to  give  the  capital  the 
benefit  of  municipal  institutions,  and 
to  transfer  the  control  of  the  registers 
of  the  civil  state  from  ecclesiastical  to 
civil  authorities. 

The  province  of  Rome,  called  the 
ConuxrcOf  comprehends  an  area  of  260 
square  leagues,  a  larger  extent  of  sur- 
face than  that  included  in  any  other 
province  of  the  states.  The  popula- 
•  tion  of  Rome  and  its  Comarca,  by  the 
Raccolta  of  18S3,  was  283,456.  The 
population  of  tlie  city  itself,  by  the 


8000.  In  1829,  the  population  was 
144,541.  In  1831,  it  was  150,666. 
In  1833,  it  had  slightly  decreased, 
the  returns  for  that  year  giving 
149,920.  In  1836,  it  had  increased 
to  153,678.  In  1838,  it  had  again 
decreased  to  148,903,  of  which  78,686 
were  males,  and  70,217  females,  being 
nearly  what  it  was  ten  years  previ- 
ously. Of  this  number,  4938  were 
ecclesiastics,  vis.,  31  bishops,  1439 
priests,  2012  monks,  and  1456  nuns. 
Since  1838,  there  has  been  a  steady 
increase;  for  on  the  3 1st  of  Decem- 
ber, 1843,  the  population  was  1 70,701. 
On  the  31st  of  December,  1844,  it 
was  175,789,  being  an  increase  in  the 
year  of  5088.  Of  this  number,  93,543 
were  males,  and  82,246  were  females ; 
31  were  cardinals,  23  bishops,  122 
prelates,  1711  priests,  2500  monks, 
1802  nuns.  In  1847,  the  population 
was  175,833 ;  of  this  number,  39  were 
bishops,  1514  priests,  2417  monks, 
1754  nuns,  and  521  students.  In 
1844,  with  a. population  of  175,789, 
the  marriages  were  1283,  the  baptismsy 
4455,  the  deaths,  3140.  The  Jews, 
in  1847,  amounted  to  8000  ;  they  are 
compelled  to  live  strictly  within  the 
walls  of  the  Ghetto,  or  Jews'  quarter^  a 
barbarous  system,  derived  firom  the  re- 
ligious prejudices  of  the  middle  ages, 
and  now  abolished  almost  every  where, 
except  in  the  territories  of  the  Church. 

The  Streets  of  modem  Rome  are 
generally  narrow,  and  paved  with 
small  stones  of  lava.  liie  Corso  b 
the  only  one  which  has  a  foot-pave- 
ment at  the  sides.  They  are  lighted 
at  night  with  oil-lamps,  but  are  not 
by  any  means  agreeable  to  foot-pas- 
sengers. Several  of  the  main  lines 
are  long  and  handsome  streets,  broken 
by  frequent  squares  or  piazze,  and 
drained  by  an  admirable  system  of 
sewerage  founded  chiefly  on  the  an- 
cient cloacae. 

Mape  of  Rome,  —  For  portability 
and  general  convenience,  the  maps  of 
ancient  and  modern  Rome,  published 
by  the  Society  for  tbkft  'QSSx^sx^w  ^ 


returns  ot  1847,  was  175,883,  not  in-  \  \Jsetu\l!Ltvo^\^^%<fc,«t^el^x«m<i^:^>asRp 
viuding  the  Jews,  who  amounted  toWu\,  a\\\\oi^gti  Itotcw  >i>ciK«  ws«^  ^'^ 

o  At 


S96  ROiTTB  27. — HOME.— Omera?  Topoffre^hy.       fSect.  1. 


Ibct 


n  the  n: 


I  of  till 


Binallcc  ulreeK,  They  mey  Ue  pi 
vhuccl  in  EngUnd  for  diipencc  each. 
Among  the  msps  to  be  obuined  at 
Itume,  Ihe  followirg  may  be  men- 
tioned «  the  best ;  —  Leturouilly'a 
engraved  in  Paris  for  his  irorli  an  the 
Honiaii  palaces;  it  is  of  convenient 
tlae,  very  BccurBte,  and  beautifully 
eieculed.  It  iswld  by  Merle,  French 
book-wller,  348.  Corso,  price  IT  psuls. 
Cbv.  Cuiina,  Ihe  vell-knuwnsichiea- 
logisl,  hai  publislied  three  very  use- 
price  85  pauls,  oonlainiu^  very  beau- 
tirul  plant  of  the  ancient  buililings, 
and  alight  indintiiins  of  tlie  modem 
atreeli ;   3d.  iQ  immense  map  of  the 

map  of  tlie  Campsgi 


Bhei-t> 


nidi; 


■II  of  them  to  lie  obt«ined 
dence,  4S.  Via  Gregoriana.  Pianlo 
Tojiogralica,  large  and  distinct,  pub- 
lished by  Caccioni,  19.  Via  Cutidotli, 
price  3  scudi.  Pocket  map,  neatly 
engraved  by  Tmjani,  published  by 
GaUerini,  Piaiia  Monte  Citorio,  price 
7  pauls.  ITie  two  best  maps  ol'  the 
envimna  of  Itoni:  ate  Ihwe  of  Sir 
W.  Cell  and  Wetlphall.botb  ofvhicli 
may  he  procured  of  any  mnpseller  in 
Rome:  Ihe  latter.asfar 


s  Ibe  n 


,  and  ii 


pBiiied  by  a  useful  eiplaoali 


A  Btill  better  one  is 

nov 

n  progress. 

furming   patt    of  tl 

luly.    con- 

be&t  work  on  the  Ga^ogy  of  Ihe  e 

Jioma,"  1  Tol.  8>o.,  acconipaiiied  wi 
a  good  geological  and  topograph ical 
map.  Moiuignore  Medici  Spadu,  Pro 
fcuor  Ponsi,  niid  our  couulryman  8i 
Aodeiick  Murchison,  hare  published 
more  rrafnlly  papers  on  tlie  same 
ject,  and  n  good  geulugical  collecliun 
illustrative  of  Bruccbi's  work,  mi  ' 
seen  in  the  museum  of  tlie  Sapii; 

Gswtnxi,   TdrocHAPHr. 
fftij/riBs/tuaterf/ntlie  central  plain 


undulating  table-land  which  lies  be- 
:wccn  the  Sabine  hills  and  Soracte  on 
Jie  north-east,  and  the  low  marshy 
flati,  whii-li  may  be  called  the  mari- 
f  the  Campagna,  on  the 
It  aundiin41°54'nDrlh 
latitude,  and  1S°  2S'  east  longitude, 
1.;  miles  dietant  from  the  sen 
The  modem  city  a  built  on 
the  low  land  which  lies  on  each  bank 
of  the  Tiber,  and  on  Ihe  slopes  of  the 
three  most  northern  of  those  seven 
hills  which  formed  the  well-known 
features  of  ancient  Borne.  The  usual 
level  of  the  Tiber  in  its  passage 
through  tlie  city  is  from  3.',  to  40teet 
above  that  of  the  sea  ;  the  height  of 
the  hills  within  the  circuit  of  the  pre- 
sent walls  varies  from  lao  to  ISO  feet 
ahotc  the  rirBr.  llio  Tiber  divides 
the  city  into  two  very  unequal  por- 
lions,  traversing  it  from  north  to  south 

less  than  three  miles  from  wall  to 
walL  On  Ihe  left  bank,  the  Quirina), 
Viminal,  and  Capitolino  hills  form  a 
Bemicircular  bell,  inclosing  the  low 
igular  plain  of  the  ancient  Campna 


Martiu 


This 


nclndes 


the 


principal  portion  cf  the  modern  city. 

consequently  contain.^  the  great  bulk 
of  the  population.  It  is  traversed  by  the 
Corso,  the  main  street  of  Rome,  about 
a  mile  in  length,  beginning  at  tho 
Potta  del  Fopolo  on  the  north,  and 
terminating  at  the  Piaixa  di  Venezia, 
near  the  foot  of  the  Capitoline  hill. 
which  forms  the  line  of  demaicatiou 
between  the  mociern  and  ancient  city. 
To  the  south  and  east  of  this  district 
are  the  Palatine,  the  Aventine,  the  Ei- 
quiltue,  and  the  Cxlian,  all  of  whicl^ 
though  included  within  the  modem 
walls,  are  little  better  than  a  desert; 
their  irregular  surlace  is  covered  with 

habited  villas,  and  they  present  no 
signs  of  human  habitations  Init  a  few 
scattered  and  solitary  convcn^  _  TJib 
Corso  divides  the  principal  district  of 
modem  Rome  into  two  parts ;  that 
on  the  nonli  and  eatit,  which  we  may 
call  tho  upper  Vown,  w  WAl  e\;\sSLi 
I  on  t'.iu  slouta  oi  ^^e  Vmtiaii  aai  ^W 


l^apal  StaiesJ]    ^  27. — Rome. — General  Topography.        297 


Quirinal,  and  on  part  of  the  plateau 
which  unites  these  hills  towards  the 
east  with  the  Viminal  and  the  £squi> 
line.  This  upper  town  is  the  fo- 
reign quarter  and  the  chief  residence 
of  the  English  visitors;  it  contains 
the  best  streets  and  the  finest  houses, 
and  is  the  healthiest  quarter  of  the 
city.  The  higher  part  of  it  is  inter- 
sected by  two  long  streets:  one  of 
these,  the  Strada  di  Porta  Pia,  nearly 
a  mile  in  length,  leads  from  the  gate 
of  that  name,  in  the  north-east  angle 
of  the  city,  to  the  Monte  Cavallo ; 
the  other  leads  in  a  straight  line  from 
the  Trinity  de*  Monti,  on  the  Pin- 
cian,  to  the  Basilica  of  Santa  Maria 
Maggiore,  under  the  names  of  the 
Via  Sistina,  Via  Felice,  and  Via  delle 
Quattro  Fontane ;  the  latter  being  so 
called  from  the  fountains  placed  at 
the  angles  of  the  bifurcation,  where 
the  two  streets  cross  each  other. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Tiber  is 
the  narrow  slip  of  level  ground  which 
contains  the  two  districts  of  the  Borgo 
and  Trastevere.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
west  by  a  ridge  of  hills  300  feet  above 
the  river,  and  about  a  mile  and  half 
in  length  from  north  to  south.  The 
principal  eminences  of  this  ridge 
within  the  walls  are  the  Vatican, 
which  preserves  its  ancient  name,  and 
the  Janiculum,  or  Monte  Montorio. 
Beyond  the  walls  the  picturesque 
Monte  Mario,  with  its  villas  and  pine 
plantations,  may  be  considered  the 
boundary  of  this  quarter  on  the  north. 
The  Trastevere  and  the  Borgo  arc 
united  by  the  street  of  the  Lungara, 
constructed  at  the  foot  of  the  Janicu- 
lum by  Sixtus  V. 

The  Rome  of  the  middle  ages,  which 
sprung  from  the  ruins  of  tlie  ancient 
city,  had  nearly  disappeared  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  sixteenth  century  ;  and 
scarcely  any  part  of  the  present  city  is 
older  than  the  time  of  Sixtus  V.,  who 
first  began  to  rebuild  it  in  the  form  in 
which  it  now  appears.  It  is  divided 
into  fourteen  districts,  or  Bioni,  twelve 
of  which  are  on  the  left,  and  two  on  the 
rj^bt  bank  of  the  Tiber.  They  are 
JrreguUr  in  tbeir  boundariea  and  out- 
line,  luring  been  determined  more  in 


accordance  with  the  modern  popula* 
tion  than  with  the  local  peculiarities 
of  the  ground ;  they  are,  consequently, 
very  numerous  in  the  modern  city, 
which  comprises  eleven  within  its  cir- 
cuit, while  the  more  extensive  area  o{ 
the  ancient  city  has  only  three.  From 
this  it  will  be  seen  at  once  that  they 
have  no  kind  of  correspondence  with 
the  regions  of  Augustus.  In  the  mid- 
dle ages  the  Rioni  had  their  captains, 
their  councils, and  their  trained  bands; 
but  though  they  still  retain  their 
banners,  and  carry  them  in  the  great 
processions,  their  municipal  jurisdic- 
tion has  merged  in  the  Priore  de* 
CaporionI,  who  is  a  member  of  the 
Tribunale  del  Campidoglio,  the  minor 
civil  and  police  court  over  which  the 
Senator  of  Rome  presides.  Of  the 
eleven  Rioni  which  include  the  modern 
city,  the  two  most  northern  are  inter- 
sected by  the  Corso ;  the  third  spreads 
over  the  Quirinal  from  the  Corso  to 
the  north-east  angle  of  the  walls ;  six 
lie  between  the  lower  half  of  the  Corso 
and  the  Tiber ;  and  two  are  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river. 

A  rapid  survey  of  these  districts 
will  enable  us  to  fix  the  localities  of 
many  interesting  objects.  1 .  The  Rione 
Campo  Marzo  begins  at  the  Porta  del 
Popolo,  embracing  all  the  northern 
angle  of  the  city  from  the  Pincian  to 
the  river,  near  the  little  Piazza  Ni- 
cosia. About  a  third  of  the  Corsor 
at  its  northern  end,  lies  within  the 
district.  On  the  east  of  the  Corso  it 
includes  the  gardens  of  the  Pincian, 
the  Villa  Medici,  the  Trinit4  de* 
Monti,  the  Piazza  Mignanelli,  Piazza 
diSpagna,the  Via  Babuino,the  Piazza 
del  Popolo,  and  the  Theatre  Aliberti. 
Between  the  Corso  and  the  river  it 
includes  the  mausoleum  of  Augustus, 
the  Hospital  of  S.  Giacomo,  the  quay 
called  the  Porto  di  Ripetta,  the  Bor- 
ghese  and  the  Ruspoli  palaces.  2.  The 
Rione  Colonna  extends  along  the  de- 
pression between  the  Pincian  and  the 
Quirinal,  from  the  city  wa\\%  ott  >2cw^ 
north-easit  t\e«LT\^  \.<i  >\w^  '^«wtv'Ocv«s^> 
crossing  \Vie  Cot«o«  %xv^  vm^\x^\^%  '^^ 
central  poitioti.  TV^v^xiW^*^^'^ 


w 


nouTE  27. — noME. — General  Topo^aphy.      ("Sect.  I. 


■«  tbe  Barlwrini  Falni-e  and  tlie 
Chursb  and  C<u>*ent  oFlhe  CspuchiriH. 
Wert  of  Ihe  Coreo  are  the  Piiuia  Co- 
Icmn*,  «ilh  the  Antonine  uolumn;  lliD 
Oiijp,  Niccolini,  and  Piombino  pa- 
boa;  IbePoaC-ofRoe;  Monte  Citario, 
with  the  tula™  of  t>>t>  Curia  Inno- 

Cardinil  Chambcclaio ;  the  Temple  of 
Antoninus,  ddv  the  Custom-houu ; 
and  tlie  Capranica  Theatre,  S.  The 
Rione  Trni  eitends  from  the  Dorlh. 
out  wfltls  to  the  Corso,  which  forma 
iti  bDundarr  on  the  west.  On  Ihe 
lunded  hy  the  long 


»ibKtt  at  the  PoiU  Pia. 
fte  house  and  gardens  of  Sallust.piu't    t 
<r  the  Agger  of  Serrios  Tullius,  the 
^lla  LudoTin,  the  Pope's  pilaae  on    I 
Oie  Monte  Cavallo,  the  Colonni   " 
faoe  incl  Gardens,  the  PiatzH  o 
SI  ApoatoU,  the  Torlonia  Palace,  the    I 
Fia>iadEllaPUolta,ul' 
of  Trevi,   from  whieh 
namev     4.  The  Rione  Piijita  joins  the    1 
fecmcr  at  the  Corso,  and  otends ' 
ward  D»er  the  Campu*  Martiua, 
includes  the    CoU^io   KomaDo, 
Pantheon,  the  Piaiia  and  Chur 
Minerva,  the  Giustiniani,  Dorin,  and    , 
Altieri  palaces,  the  Chumh  of  Geail,    I 
and  Ihe  I^azia  and  PaUno  di  Ve- 
nezia.     5.  The  Rione  S.  EHiladiia,  i 
long  rtrip  of  ground  in  the  heart  o 
the  Campus  Martiua,  lies  along  thi 
western   aide   of  the  former  distriol. 
■nd  ia  Riled  with  streets  of  ahopa  and    < 
■nanufactoriea.  It  includes  tbe  ehurch    I 
wlrieh  gives   it   name,   the    Coliegio 
Sapienza,  tbe  Cenai  Palace,  and  (he    i 
tiiealresValleanti  Argentina.    6.  'It 
Kioae  Panti,  another  unatlrautive  <Ii' 
ti)ct,  encloses  tlie  angle  fonned  by  tl 
bend  of  the  Tiber  belo"'  tlie  castte  i 
St  Angelo.  ItincludealheTordinor 
Theatre   and   the    Tiaaia  del   PoiK 
leading  to  the  bridge  of  St.  Angeio.    { 
7.  The   Rione    Parione,  situated  he-    ' 
tween  the  two  former  diatrii 
heart  of  tbe  city,  includes  tl 
Miroaa,  the  site  of  the  Circus  Ago- 
na/«  anrf  (/tepteee  of  the  weekly  mar-   fltok  to  ttie  TikAwcti 
iet,  the  statue  of  Pasqa'm.Bramante's]  TYoileBeTeMflwUieraVQSBWftwTSAiKi 
Cancelleeia,     the     Piazxa    SForzn,    Ihel  of  the  miyiein  cW^.     \tVvBsW^«si; 
CTamjio  di  ITiora,  the  Mataati  palace,  '|Jauwulum  an*  *«  T^**'-  »**  * 


pey.      8.  Tlie  1 
tile  bank  of  th( 

upper  hair  of  tt 


It  V 

f  Spada 


palaces.  Tbe  Ponte  Sisio,  the  aucieiit 
P(HU  Jaaioulenais,  crosses  tbe  river 
firotn  its  centre.  The  fine  street  formed 
hf  the  Via  del  Fontanone  and  the  Via 
Ciulia,  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length,  run*  parallel  to  the  Tiber 
through  B  great  part  of  this  district 
and  that  of  Ponte,  extending  in  n 
atraight  line  li^>ni  tbe  Ponte  Sisto  to 
the  river  near  the  bridge  of  St.  Augelo. 
9.  Tbe  Rione  &  Angrlo  in  ftjcStrin, 
district  between  the  Pigna 
-iver,  lies  at  the  back  of  the 
Capitol,  and  opposite  the  island  of 
tbe  Tiber.  It  is  a  mean  and  dirty 
quarter!  the  prinoipal  olijeetB  of  in. 
'  are  tbe  ruins  of  the  Theatre  of 
illua,  the  Portico  of  Oclatia,  the 
Orsini  palace,  and  the  Church  oF  S. 
in    Careere,    occupying  the 


Hope,  and  Piety.  Partly  in  this  rc- 
Kion  and  partly  in  that  of  Rcgola  is 
Ghetto,  the  dirty  quarter  of  the 
s,surrounded  by  walls,  and  entered 
by  two  gates  nhieh  are  loclied  every 
night  by  the  police.  It  Ineludes 
their  synagt^i^c,  thdr  public  ichools, 
and  the  hall  in  which  they  hold  n  kind 
of  administrative  council.  The  old 
Fabric iau    bridge,    now    the    Ponte 


.    oelebrated    in  dassitial  times 

for  the  Temple  of  ^seuhpius,  and 

well  known  to  scholars  as   the  "ship 

of  the  Tiber,"  is  about  1000  R'Ct  long 

and  300  feet  wide  in  its  broadest  part. 

It  contains  the  Church  and  Convent 

of  S.  Bartoloromeo  and  the  Church  of 

Giovanni  Calabita.    The  Pons  Gra- 

nua  orCe9tiua,now  called  the  Ponle 

BartolommCD,  and  sometimes  the 


Papal  States.}     r.  27. — Rome. — General  Topography.  299 


tends  along  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
from  the  Hospital  of  Santo  Spirito  on 
the  north,  to  the  extremity  of  the  city 
inralls  on  the  south.     It  includes  at 
this  southern  angle  the  great  quay  or 
port  of  the  Ripa  Grande  and  the  vast 
hospital  of  San  Michele.    The  Arsenal 
is  situated  outside  the  walls  close  to 
the  Porta  Portese.     The  central  por- 
tion of  this  Rione  covers  the  ancient 
Regio  Transtiberina ;  and  the  Church 
of  S.  Pietro  in  Montorio  very  nearly 
occupies  the  site  of  the  Ars  Janicu- 
lensis.     The  most  interesting  objects 
of  this  district  are  the  Famesina  and 
Salviati  palaces,  the  immense  Corsini 
Palace,  the  Botanic  Garden,  the  church 
of  S.  Onofrio,  memorable  as  the  bury- 
ing-place  of  Tasso ;  that  of  S.  Pietro 
in  Montorio,  the  supposed  scene  of 
Uie  crucifixion  of   the   apostle,   the 
Fountain  of  the  Acqua   Faola,   the 
Benedictine  Convent  of  S.  Calisto,  the 
Convent  of  S.  Francesco  a  Ripa,  for- 
merly  inhabited    by    St.  Francis  of 
A8siu,and  the  villas  Spada  and  Lante. 
The  whole  district  is  inhabited  by'a 
peculiar,  and  in  many  respects  a  dis- 
tinct race;  their  language,  their  cus- 
toms, their  fine  physical  characteristics, 
and  their  spirit  of  haughty  seclusion, 
which  refuses  to  mix  or  intermarry 
with  the  inhabitants  of  the  other  quar- 
ters of  the  city,  give  great  interest  to 
the  national  tradition  that  they  are  the 
direct  descendants  of  the  ancient  Ro- 
mans.    The  Trastevere  is  separated 
by  high  walls  from  the  Borgo,  with 
which  it  communicates  by  the  fine  gate 
of  Santo  Spirito.     11.    2^  ^or^  or 
the  Cittik  Leonina,  was  founded  in  the 
ninth  century  by  Leo.  IV.,  who  en- 
closed it  within  walls  to  protect  it 
from  the  attacks  of  the  Moorish  pirates. 
It  is  the  northern  district  of  Rome 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.     It 
compreliends   the  area  between  the 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  the  Hospital  of 
Santo  Spirito,  the  Vatican  Palace,  and 
St  Peter's,  and  as  it  includes  all  these 
ol^jttots  within  its  limits,  it  is  by  far 
the  most  interesting  quarter  of  mo- 
dem Bona     It  wag  the  district  in- 
hMbJted  by  the  ADglo-Saxon  pilgrims 


in  the  early  ages  of  the  Church,  and 
one  of  the  fires  which  occurred  in  the 
ninth  century,  perhaps  the  very  one 
which   Raphael  has  immortalised,  is 
attributed  to  their   neglect.     Anas- 
tasius  indeed  says  that  the  name  Borgo 
is   derived  firom    the    term    Burgus 
(burgh), which  was  given  to  the  quarter 
by  these  pilgrims.     Besides  the  lead- 
ing objects  of  interest  already  men- 
tioned, the  district  contains  the  Giraud 
Palace,  now  the  Torlonia,   built  by 
Bramante,  and  interesting  to  British 
travellers 'as  the  residence  of  the  En- 
glish ambassadors  prior  to   the  Re- 
formation.    Farther  on,  beyond  the 
church  of  S.  Giacomo  Scossacavalli, 
is    the    fine    palace   which   has    be- 
come memorable  as  the  scen&  of  the 
death  of  Raphael,  and  of  Charlotte, 
queen  of  Cyprus.     These  eleven  dis- 
tricts comprehend  the  largest  and  most 
important  portion  of  modem  Rome. 
The  three  now  to  be  described  in- 
clude the  ancient  city.    12.  The  Rione 
Montifhke the  Trastevere,  is  inhabited 
by  a  peculiar  and  distinctive  class,  who 
pride  themselves  on  their  direct  de- 
scent firom  the  ancient  Romans.    This 
immense  district   commences   at  the 
Porta  Pia,and  ex  tends  along  the  whole 
line  of  the  city  wall  as  far  as  San  Ste- 
fano  Rotondo,  skirting  the  Coliseum 
and  the  Capitol  on  the  west,  and  em- 
bracing the  Viminal,   the  Esquiline, 
and  part  of  the  Caelian.     It  includes 
within  ^is  extennve  and  almost  de- 
serted area  the  Prtetorian  Camp,  the 
Baths  of  Diocletian  and  of  Titus,  the 
Forum  of  Trajan,  the  so-called  Baths 
of  Paulus  ^milius,   the  Temple  of 
Minerva  Medica,  the  fountain  and  re- 
servoir called  the  Trophies  of  Marius» 
the    Amphitheatrum    Castrense,   the 
Church  of  Santa  Crocc  in   Gerusa- 
lemme,  St.  John   Lateran,    S.  Pietro 
in   Vinooli,   the   Rospigliosi   Palace, 
and  the  desolate  villas  Negroni,  Altieri, 
and  Strozxi.     IS.  The  Rione  Campi^ 
teUi,  on  the  south-east  of  the  city,  ex- 
tends firom  the  northern  flanks  of  tJhA 
CapUo\\ii«Ui  Xh«  ^«XAO^^\..^i»^CA&'CNasu 

It  COmpT«Vl»l\dA  V\i*  T009X  VCi\Kt»JC^B% 

portion  o«  «a«v«xi!t  \\jatcve/\v.«3»AxTisi 


1 


R  2T. — ROME. —  Wtilfs  and  Galei.       tSect,  I. 


■Jtonuio  I'oi 
^Hn  find  aUt 


ts  bouncTaries  the  Cup 
'   ColU. 


!,  and  tile  FhIhcu  of  Ibe  Cssars. 
find  atsa  in  ibis  ilistiict  llie  Pa^ 

CotKCnt  uFS.  GiovHnni  e  Paolo 

TSf  (lie  Olian,  marked  by  its  Military 
palai-tTi-e,  Ihe  Cburcb  oS  S.  Grcgurio, 
the  Villa  Mnltei,  and  at  i(i  eilremB 
angle  llie  conimciivemeiit  of  tbe  Ap- 
jiianWny,  nndtheTomboftheSciiiios. 
14.  The  Rione  Ripa,  Iho  laat  of  tbe 
modem  diitticts,  ombtBccii  all  tlic 
siiutherii  quarter  of  Rome  between 
Ihe  Cteliaii  and  the  river,  including 
the  Ayeotine,  tbe  Prall  del  Fopolo 
Romano,  and  Monte  Teslaceio,  the 
holiday  re»ort  uf  the  tnudero  citizens.  | 
The  objccU  of  most  inlercBl  are  Ihe 
leniples  of  Fortuna  Virili.  and  of 
Vesta  in  tbe  Rocca  delU  Verity,  the 
Arch  of  Janui,  the  Cloaca  Maxima, 
the  Cireiu  Maiimui,  the  ruined  Fa. 
lalinc  Bridge  now  the  Ponte  Rotto, 
the  Baths  of  Caracalls,  llie  Pyramid 
<^  Cains  Cestios,  Ihe  Protestant  bu- 

^^^^l-ground,  and  tbe  chutehn  of  S. 

^^hUea,  S.  Balbina,  &  Saba,  S.  Maria 

^Kn  Cosmedin,  anil  S.  Anastxsia. 

k.  Tlie  mi»ifofRome.ioclutlingtllose 

of  the  TrastevereandtbeVati<:an,are 
from  Ibiirtecn  to  iincea  miles  in  cir- 
cuit. The  length  of  that  portioo 
which  encompasses  the  city  on  the  left 
bunk  of  Ihe  Tiber  is  about  twelve 
tnilei ;  (he  length  of  the  more  recent 
walls  whicli  bound  the  district  beyond 
the  river  is  very  nearly  three  miles. 
There  is  little  doubt  t1>at  the  line  of 
walls  on  tbe  left  bank  is  substantially 
the  same  a^  thai  traced  by  Aurelian, 
A.  n,  371  i  hot  it  can  hardly  be  ex- 
pecti'd  that  after  the  lapse  of  fourteen 
centuries  we  should  be  able  to  recog- 
nise much  of  this  nri^nal  structure  in 
the  present  walls.  We  know  that 
they  were  repaired  by  Honor! us, 
Theodorie,  Belisarius,  Narses,anii  by 
SEVeml  popes;  many  of  these  restur- 
Btioiis  were  obviously  made  in  haste 
for  temporary  purposes ;  andhenceso 
niaay  yarieliea  at  workmanship  are  | 
visihle,  that  it  is  aJmost  impossible  to 
'/ecide  what  is  ancieot  and  what  is 
"inilerii.       Tlie   last   general    refulrs 

"■Wf  made  in  i  7^3  fjj-  Wenedift  X 1 V., 


who  restored  Ihe  walla  wliieh  had  be- 
come dilapidated  in  parts,  and  re- 
psiied  all  the  galewayi  now  open. 
Tbe  most  recent  works  of  a  local  cba- 

by  Leo  Xli.,  and  continued  by  his 
Euceeasors.  The  walls  throng  bout 
their  entire  circuit  on  the  left  bank 
pteaent  on  irregular  poligonal  out- 
line; they  are  built  of  brick,  mixed 
with  rubbisb  nf  various  kinds  and  oo- 
eaeional  patches  of  stone- work.  Tbey 
have  n(t  ditch,  but  arc  crested  with 
nearly  three  hundred  towers;  on  the 
outMde  they  are  abool  fifty  fi;i.-t  in 
height ;  on  tbe  inner  face,  where  tbey 
are  strengthened  by  numerous  biit- 
treise?,  tbe  accumulation  of  soil  is  so 
coniiderable  that  they  seldom  rise  sa 
high  as  thirty  feet,  'iliere  are  sixteen 
gatin  properly  belonging  to  the 
modern  idty,  but  four  of  them  are 
now  walled  up.  In  taking  a  general 
survey  of  these  gates,  from  the  Porta 
del  Fopolo,  we  shall  ootii-e  the  ves- 
tiges of  the  ancient  gateways,  and 
such  peeuliaiities  of  the  ancient  walls. 

Tliis  will  bring  the  whole  subject 

Gulei— 1.  Pdrto  dd  Pi^oi  erected 
by  Pius  IV.  in  JS61.  with  tbe  as- 
sistance of  Viguola,  from  the  designs- 
of  Miclael  Angelo.  The  internal. 
portwBsdecoiati^  by  Bernini  (p.S67.)> 
Tbe  ancient  Porta  Flaminia,  whieb 
supplied  the  materials  for  this  gate^ 
and  by  whicb  tbe  Flaminiaa  Way  left 
tbe  capital.  Has  situated  a  little  higher 
up,  near  the  opus  leticulatum  of  the 
Man  Tarlo,  This  very  curious  fiag- 
mcnt  is  well  known  from  the  descrip- 
tion of  Probipius;  he  says  that  the 


not  allow  it 

that  it  was  under  the  protection  of 
St.  Peter.  The  Goths,  he  adds,  never 
attacked  it,  which  made  the  people 
regard  flie  spot  ■■ViV  ko  mviota  -^lemK- 
"  jn  tVi«  no  OM  \\oa  s'iM  aVmro'p'A 


Papal  States.'}    route  27. — rome. — Walls  and  Gates.        SOI 


plies  so  perfectly  at  tbe  present  day, 
that  it  leaves  nothing  for  us  to  add 
except  that  the  wall,  which  is  about 
forty  feet  in  length,  is  considerably 
out  of  the  perpendicular,  and  that  an- 
tiquaries are  not  wanting  who  con- 
sider both  the  wall  and  the  inclination 
to  be  as  old  as  the  time  of  Aurelian. 
Some  writers  have  endeavoured  to 
connect  the  Muro  Torto  with  the 
tomb  of  Nero,  but  there  are  not  the 
slightest  grounds  for  the  conjecture. 
It  is  true  that  ancient  authorities  satis- 
factorily prove  that  the  tomb  of  the 
Domitian  fiunily,  in  which  the  body 
of  Nero  was  deposited,  was  not  far 
distant  from  the  Porta  del  Fopolo. 
It  was  situated  on  the  Fineian*  near 
the  Flaminian  Way,  and  was  visible 
from  the  Campus  Martins.  Its  site 
therefore  may  safely  be  placed  on 
the  western  slopes  of  the  modem 
gardens,  but  not  a  vestige  remains  to 
enable  us  to  identify  the  spot.  Be- 
tween this  and  the  next  gateway  we 
begin  to  meet  with  some  walls,  after 
passing  the  nineteenth  tower  from  the 
Porta  del  Fopolo,  which  exhibit  the 
workmanship  of  Honorius.  As  we 
advance  we  shall  meet  with  every 
variety  of  construction,  from  the  com- 
pact brickwork  which  would  have 
been  worthy  of  the  best  times  of 
Rome,  to  the  rude  repairs  of  Belisa- 
rius  and  the  patchwork  restorations 
of  the  popes.  2.  Porta  Pinciana^ 
with  two  round  towers,  a  stone  gate- 
way, mentioned  by  Frocopius,  and 
supposed  to  have  been  rebuilt  by 
Belisarius,  who  had  his  camp  on  the 
Fincian  during  the  siege  of  Vitiges. 
It  is  now  walled  up,  but  it  is  interest- 
ing as  the  spot  which  tradition  has 
made  the  scene  of  the  degradation  of 
Belisarius.  If  there  be  any  truth  in 
this  popular  story,  the  great  general 
sat  here  and  begged  of  the  people, 
**  Date  obolum  Belisario,"  as  they 
passed  the  gates  through  which  he 
had  so  often  led  his  troops  in  triumph. 
The  aqueduct  called  the  Acqua 
Vergine,  twelve  miles  in  length,  which 
supplies  tbe  fountain  of  Trevi,  enters 
the  cMtf  Mt  tbiM  point.  3,  Pbrta  Saiara^ 
with  two  round  towers  of  brick,  built 


on  the  foundations  of  the  Port* 
Salaria,  so  called  from  the  road  by 
which  the  Sabines  exported  their 
supplies  of  salt.  It  is  memorable 
as  the  gate  by  which  Alaric  entered 
Rome.  During  the  French  siege  in 
1849,  the  Roman  triumvirate  wan- 
tonly demolished  every  house  and 
every  boundary  wall  on  this  side  of 
the  city,  although  the  French  had 
never  appeared  in  this  quarter,  and  it 
was  most  improbable  that  they  would 
have  abandoned  their  base  of  opera* 
tions  at  Civita  Vecchia,  and  crossed 
the  Tiber  to  attempt  an  entrance  at 
any  of  the  gates  on  the  left  bank. 
The  **  Commission  of  Defence,**  how- 
ever, required  that  every  part  of  the 
approaches  should  be  equally  **  pro- 
tected ;  "  and,  in  accordance  with  their 
fiat,  the  whole  country,  from  the  Porta 
Salara  to  the  Porta  S.  Paolo,  was  laid 
waste :  public  and  private  rights  were 
equally  disregarded,  and  the  property 
of  rich  and  poor  was  subjected  to  the 
same  spirit  of  destruction.  The  tra- 
veller, therefore,  who  follows  this  cir- 
cuit of  the  city  waUs,  will  no  longer 
find  the  casini  and  their  plantations, 
the  road-side  taverns  for  the  pea« 
santry,  the  cottages  of  the  labourers, 
or  even  the  vineyard  walls,  which 
formerly  diversified  the  scene.  There 
is  no  longer  any  protection  for  pro- 
perty remaining,  nor  a  single  fence 
left  standing  to  keep  stray  cattle  from 
the  vineyards  and  gardens  that  line 
the  road.  At  the  Porta  Salara,  vast 
earthworks  were  thrown  up,  to  form 
an  immense  barricade,  and  a  similar 
barricade,  with  flanking  batteries,  was 
erected  at^  the  Porta  .Maggiore.  4. 
Porta  Pia,  the  representative  of  the 
ancient  P.  Nomentana  ;  it  derives  its 
modern  name  from  Pius.  IV.,  who 
rebuilt  it  in  1564,  from  the  designs  of 
Michael  Angelo,  and  left  it  unfinished 
at  his  death.  At  the  acute  angle 
formed  by  the  streets  which  enter  the 
city  by  this  gate  and  Porta  Salara 
stood  the  famous  Porta  Collina  of  the 
walls  of  Sesviu^  T\A\\>\"^.  TVn&  '«^- 
known  T«coiktvo\\.x«  o^'^\wc«Cci^^^'^'«>^i 
accotAuitt  lo  \an^, Vsi  S>c«e^  ^  «i'^ 
over  iVie  iriV\B,  v.oqV  ^\^^«^  ^^  ^ 


302  Bo'irrK  27.— RoHe. — Wdlliand  Gales.       t^Sect.  T. 

Ibe  gnlcvay,  which  now  ihows  us  the 
and  three  piers,  b  extremely  ImposiDg. 


■ide,  und  ir  be  had  attaolied  K< 
there  19  gooil  reoBon  Tur  bulieving  that 
it  would  have  been  by  this  Rule.  11 
socienl  P.  Namenlana,  liuUt  Iiy  Hi 
uoriiu,  waf  situated  n  little  beyond 
the  preienl  gale,  lowards  tlie  PrsMo- 
rian  catnp  of  Tiberius,  whose  qtiad- 
Tuigular  incloiure  projeflta  beyund 
the  wbUs  at  the  norlh-eait  ang]B  of 
the  city.  It  is  rery  clear  that  Hono- 
liua  included  this  celebrated  camp  in 
his  litie  of  walls;  Ihieo  of  its  sides 
were  probably  left  standing  when 
Cnnstantine  diinuntled  it,  and  thus 
afforded  peculiar  racDities  for  the 
new  works.  Oo  examining  its  walls, 
the  rude  stone-work  hastily 
gether  by  T  '*  ' 
recognised. 
merlv  opened  o 
closed  by  Honor 
ttaeed.  In  ibe  » 
Porta    Cliiusa  rep 


.       isily  l« 
ts  gateways,  which  for- 


■    PorU 


now  walled  up.  S.  Paria  S.  Lb. 
renzo,  with  two  towers,  the  ancient 
Porta  Tiburtina  or  Pra^neitina,  built 
by  Honoriu^  a.d.  402.  It  is  at- 
tached to  the  interesting  raonument 
whicii  forms  the  junction  of  the 
Manuan,  JuIIdh,  and  Tepulan  aque> 
duets.  This  gale  opens  on  one  of  the 
rouJs  to  HvoU.  Between  this  and 
the  PorU  Maggioie  U  a  closed  gale, 
supposed  to  be  the  Porta  Collatina. 
On  approBchiog  the  Porta  Moggiore, 
we  see  the  subtermnean  aqueduct 
which  carried  into  the  city  (he  waters 
of  the  Anio  Veins.     6.   Porta  Af<^ 


arcli   I 


,    Horn, 


Tlie   ad- 


linest  gateway 

joining  monument  of  the  CUudian 
Hi|ueduct  fbrtncrly  included  the  gate- 
ways  of  the  Porta  Labicana  and  Porta 
Prsnestinn.  Both  these  gates  were 
greatly  dis6gured  and  concealed  by 
llonorius;  the  Porta  Labicana  was 
closed,  and  the  Porta  Piirneitina  was 
known  as  the  PotU  Maggiorc.  The 
Labicana  gate  was  recently  opened, 
when  llie  labour  of  the  work  was 
amply  repaid  by  the  di»co»erj  of  the 
.Baier's  Tomb,  which  is  described  in 

'^  P''oper  place  under  the  antiquities. 

Jbe  appearance  of  the  line  fn^ade  ot 


Hie  accidental  c 
Claudian  aqueduct  being  carried  over 
it  may  eiplain  the  existence  of  this 
very  splendid  monument.  TlteTe  ore 
three  inscriptions  on  the  attic :  one 
recording  that  tlie  emperor  Til>erius 
Claudius  brought  into  the  city  the 
Claudian  aqueduct ;  the  seoond  re- 
lating to  the  restoratioiu  of  Vespasian; 
and  the  third  to  those  of  Titus.  Id 
the  attic  are  the  channels  for  the 
water,  the  lower  one  receiving  the 
Aqua  Claudia,  and  the  upper  the 
stream  called  tbe  Aniene  Nuovo.  We 
see  also  at  this  point  built  into  the 
wall  the  flank  of  an  arch  of  peperino, 
in  which  we  distinctly  recognise  the 
three  channels  of  the  Mareian,  Te- 
pulan. and  Julian  aqueducts,  the 
Marcian  being  the  lowest  and  the 
Julian  the  highest  of  these  channels. 
Close  by  we  may  likewise  trace  the 

Vctus.  Tlie  road  which  passes  out 
of  this  gate  leads  to  Colonna,  Val- 
inDntDne,&D.,  and  is  the  high  road  to 
Naples  by  Fiosiiione  and  San  Ger- 
mano.  The  walls  beyond  the  gate 
follow  the  course  of  the  CUudian 
aqueduct  for  a  short  distance,  and 
then  pass  under  the  Arches  of  the 
Aequa  Felice  of  Siitus  V.,  which 
ibrui  so  many  picturesque  combina- 
ind  contrasts  with  the  imperial 
Farther  on  they  pass  the 
ct!  of  Santa  Croce  in  Cerusa- 
',  and  skirt  the  external  wall  of 
inphitheatrum  Castrenae,  which 
eluded  by  Uonorius  in  his  line 
of  fortifications.  7.  Fotia  S™  Gio- 
vanni, entirely  modern,  built  by  Gre- 
gory XIII.  in  the  16lh  oenlury. 
Adjoining  this  gate  is  the  ancient 
Porta  Asinaria,  flanked  by  two  round 
brick  towers.  It  is  now  walled  up, 
but  is  a  very  picturesque  ruin.  It  is 
the  gateway   through 


i,  Bdisn 


IS  hrsl  ei 


ired  Ron 


It  was  also  the  scene  of  the  lirsl 
trance  ot  TQl.\\a,  ■w\io  itolaiaei  v* 
session  ai  it  \j7  ftie  Weao'aiK'j  nS  « 
I  laautianB.     "n^a  g,Me  rf'S.  G\mi»' 


Papal  States.']   route  27«— Rome. —  WaUa  and  Gates.        303 


Is  well  known  to  travellers  ;  the  high 
road  to  Naples  by  the  Pontine  Marshes 
passes  out  of  it.  Beyond  the  gate  is 
the  Aqua  Crabra,  now  the  Maranna, 
which  enters  the  city  by  a  gateway, 
now  walled  up,  called  the  Porta  Me- 
tronia.  The  Porta  Capena  of  the 
walls  of  Servius  Tullius  was  within 
this  gate,  below  the  Villa  Mattel,  on 
tibe  C»lian.  8.  Porta  Latina,  also 
closed.  It  has  two  round  brick 
towers,  with  a  groove  apparently  for 
a  portcullis.  The  Christian  mono- 
gram on  the  keystone  has  led  to  the 
belief  that  it  was  repaired  by  Beii^ 
saiius.  The  Church  tradition  relates 
that  St  John  was  martyred  by  being 
boiled  in  oil  within  this  gate,  a.  i>.  96. 
9.  Pi>rta  San  S^HUtiano,  with  two 
fine  semicircular  towers  of  brickwork 
resting  on  foundations  of  solid  marble, 
probably  taken  from  the  tombs  on  the 
Appian.  This  gate  is  well  kriown  in 
eonnection  with  the  catacombs,  the 
aieh  of  Drusus,  and  the  tomb  of  the 
Srapios ;  it  was  called  the  Porta  Appia 
in  the  8th  century.  Under  the  arch 
is  a  curious  Gothic  inscription  re- 
lating to  the  repulse  of  some  invading 
force,  which  has  given  rise  to  much 
speculation  among  the  antiquaries. 
Between  this  gate  and  the  Porta  di 
S.  Paolo  are  the  celebrated  fbrtlBca- 
tions  constructed  by  Paul  III.  in 
the  16th  century,  iVom  the  designs 
of  the  great  architect  and  engineer 
Antonio    Sangallo.      10.    Porta   San 


Urban  VIII.,  and  are  flanked  with 
regular  bastions.  Within  their  cir» 
cuit,  particularly  in  the  southern  bend 
beyond  the  Corsini  Palace  and  around 
S.  Pietro  in  Montorio,  we  may  still 
trace  the  ruined  towers  and  ramparts 
of  the  wall  of  Aurelian  and  Honorius. 
The  following  are  the  gates  of  the 
Transtiberine  district :  11.  Porta  PoT" 
tese,  built  by  Urban  VII I.,  near  ^the 
ancient  P.  Portuensis,  on  the  road  to 
Fiumicino,  the  present  port  of  the 
Tiber.  12.  Pmia  San  Pancrazio,  on 
the  Janiculum,  probably  the  Porta 
Janiculensis,  or  Porta  Aurelia.  The 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Pamfili  Doria 
lie  to  the  westward,  and  spread  over 
the  hill  in  the  direction  of  St.  Peter's. 
The  Acqua  Paola,  the  ancient  AU 
sietina,  brought  by  Augustus  from 
the  hike  of  Bracciano,  enters  the 
Trastevere  at  this  spot.  It  was  upon 
the  bastions  to  the  lefl  of  this  gate 
that  the  French  besi^ing  army  under 
General  Oudinot,  in  1849,  directed 
the  brunt  of  their  attack.  It  was 
here,  also,  that  they  succeeded  in 
making  a  practicable  breach,  after 
hundreds  of  men  had  perished  on  both 
sides,  and  all  the  horrors  of  war  had 
been  lavished  without  restraint.  £very 
spot  in  the  neighbourhood  is  inti- 
mately associated  with  the  events  of 
this  bombardment,  for  here  only  were 
its  effects  felt  by  the  besieged,  and 
here  especially  did  the  Trasteverini 
exert  their  whole  means  of  defenee 


Paoh,  rebuilt  by  Belisarius  on  the  with  a  courage  which  no>  differences 
site  of  the  Porta  Ostiensis ;  a  double  '.  of  political  opinion  can  refuse  to  ao- 
gate,  well  known  as  one  of  the  most ,  knowledge.  Wherever  we  turn,  fVom 
picturesque  of  all  the  modern  gate-  :  the  walls  of  San  Panorazio  to  the 
ways.  The  inner  portion  is  probably  ;  Fontana  Paolina  and  the  church  of 
anterior  to  the  time  of  Belisarius.  It  San  Pietro  on  the  one  band,  or  to  the 
is  remarkable  as  the  scene  of  Totila*s  frequent  noounds  which  mark  the 
iecond  entrance  into  Rome.  The  ,  graves  of  beu^^rs  and  besieged  upon 
pyramid  of  Caius  Cestius  is  hero  in-  i  the  other,  we  find  traces  of  the  awful 
eluded  in  the  walls,  which  proceed  ,  devastation  which  followed  the  pro- 
towards  the  Tiber,  round  the  base  of  i  longed  resistance  of  the  Romans  at 
Monte  Testaccio,  ascending  the  left  this  point.  The  existence  of  a  con- 
siderable p<^ion  of  the  Aurelian  wall 


bank  of  the  river  for  a  very  short  dis- 
tance, when  they  become  no  longer 
traoeiMe.     On  the  right  bank  of  the 


within  the  circuit  of  the  bastioned 
line  of  the  i^o^e^  ^"(^  ^^  XwssiMse^ 


Tibw  the  wtdla  present  altogether  a'  great  adwAafg^ Vcv  ^Sfioa  ^\>x%^«\  ^^^ 
more  modera  aspect ;  the  greater  part   as  t\iat  aikneYit  ^a\\  >a\»sS».  ^^v**^.  ^ 
•rere  coostrueCed  by  Innocent  X.  and '  tiVes  \»  tftot*  ^ViW^  ^  ^^^'^  ^^  "^ 


ROUTS  27«  — HOSIH. SrUffOt. 


IBect.  t 


Demand  from  loto  IS  yardi  Jn  height, 
and,'  m»r«DTer,  U  flinked  wilh  towen, 
it  rormed  ■  real  rortreu  within  Ihe 
outer  wall  upon  vhiuh  Ihc  French 
hod  finst  tu  direct  their  fire.  It  is 
due  It>  the  Flench  to  add  that  in  K- 
levling   this   f^le  and   Ihe  ailvnnced 

tick,  they  were  guided  by  the  ft-eling 
that  from  no  othrr  spot  could  ilteir 
operntioiu  be  carried  on  wilh  so  little 
injury  to  tlie  monuments  of  Ihe  city, 
and  that  the  whole  amouDt  o(  damiige 
done  by  their  pnjjoctilcs  fell  far  abort 
of  the  destruction  comiDitted  by  tlie 
nomani  themselves  under  tbe  orders 
of  Iheir  ■'Commission  of  Defeuee." 
13.  Fbrla  Cuvallaigieri,  ctow  to  St. 
Peter's,  on  the  higli  post-road  to 
Civil*  Vecchia,  said  to  be  from  tbe 
design)  of  Sangnllo.  It  was  close  to 
this  gate  that  Ihe  Frencb  army  suf- 
fered their  Grat  and  most  serere  re- 
pulse in  Iheir  attack  on  Rome  in 
Isaa.  H,  Ihria  Fehbrica,  near  the 
fiinaer,  oow  walled  up.  15.  Porto 
jinjpJica.  formerly  tho  Porta  Pel- 
legrini, built  by  Tin,  IV.  on  tbe 
uorlb  lidt)  of  St  Peter's,  leading  to 
Wonte  niario.  16.  Poria  Caaiilio.  oit 
the  lueadowa  behind  Ihe  Castle  uf  Si. 
Angela,  now  wailed  up. 

Bridga.  — Of  the  eight  bridges  of 
■   "       e  four  only 


present  the  bridge  preeisely  as  we  now 
see  it,  wilh  three  large  equal  arches 
in  Ihe  centre,  and  small  arcbeson  eaeb 
side.  The  piers  are  strengthened  with 
buttresses  and  starlijigs.  The  bridge 
was  constructed  by  Hadrian  as  a  pas- 
sage to  his  mausoleum.  In  the  middle 
ages  it  was  covered  wilh  booths  or 
sliops,  by  which  the  passage  was  so 
much  contracted,  that  the  pressure  of 
the  crowd  at  the  jubilee  of  14 50 caused 
the  death  ofSOU  people.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  accident,  the  pope  re- 
moved the  booths  and  restored  the 
bridge   to    lis  original    forn: 


magiji 


ied  this 


ital  destruction  of  the  bridge  i  a 

eiaminatioD  of  the  architecture 

disprove  tbe  statement. 


use.      Tbe 


s  of  all  tl 


lO  douhl 

either  about  their  names  or  their  lo- 
calities. To  prevent  reprtilion  here- 
after, we  shall  bring  them  all  into  one 
view.  Beginning  with  Ihe  most 
northern,  and  proceeding  down  the 

1.  Funle  UuOr,  the  ancient  Pons 
MilviuG  on  the  Flaminian  Way,  al- 
ready described  at  page  SS6. 

a.  J\mtc  S.  Augdo,  the  ancient  Pons 
jElius.  Tbisvery  tmble  bridgecrosses 
the  Tiller  immediately  opposite  the 
Castle  of  8.  Angela  ;  it  is  almost  the 


tainly.      Tlie  whole  of  it  is  ancle 

trith  the  exception  of  some  restoratii 

ofstonc-nork  anrfthe  parapets,     ft 

^"is  of  Hadrian  ere  extant  which 


would  at 
ifitweri 

authorities.  In  1530  Clement  VII. 
erected  at  the  entrance  of  the  bridge 
the  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  8L  PauL 
In  IGSB  CleraentlX.  constructed  the 
present  parapet,  aud  added  the  ten 
angels  which  Btand  upon  the  piers. 
■ITie  one  which  bears  the  cross  is  by 
Bemiui,  the  others  are  by  his  scholars; 
they  are  scarcely  worth  mentioning  aa 
works  of  art. 

3.  Pom  TriimphaUi,  or  tbe  P.  Vati- 
canus,  the  longest  of  all  Ihe  bridges, 
supposed  to  bave  been  built  by  Nero. 
From  a  passage  in  Prudenlius,  it  ia 
supposed  to  have  been  entire  in  the 
early  part  of  the  fifth  century.  Some 
foundations  of  its  piers  are  still  visible 
from  the  bridge  of  SU  Angelo  when 
the  river  is  lowj  they  are  about  30O 
paces  below  tbe  bridge.  Their  posi- 
tion may  gieoerally  be  recognbcd  by 
the  disturbance  of  the  water. 

4.  Fimie  Sitto,  built  by  Siitus  IV- 
in  1474,  on  the  ruins  of  the  Pons  Jani- 
culensis,  connecting  tbe  city  with  the 
district  of  'I^astevere.  Nothing  is 
known  of  ils  aneleut  history,  though 
the  older  antiquaries  mention  an'in- 


TiptlOl 


<   four 


5,  Ponle  di  QuoHro  Capi,  connecting 
\  lln  city  viitVi  flw  isAaoi  o\  i.\it '  V\\«i ,  m 
\  calUa  ftonv  v\ie  (ooi  ftftOTes  ut  a  ^m- 


Pqpa/  Staies.2      route  27.  —  Rome.  —  Brieves. 


305 


vhich  were  formerly  placed  at  the 
angles  of  the  bridge.  It  is  the  Pons 
Fabriciu^  built  by  Fabricius,  the  Cu- 
rator Viarum,  b.  c.  60.  It  is  men- 
tloned  by  Horace  as  the  spot  from 
which  Damasippus  would  have  leaped 
into  the  Tiber,  but  for  the  precepts  of 
Stertinius. 

**  Unde  cgo'mira" 
Descripsi  docilis  praecepta  bsc,  tempore  quo 

me 
Solatua  junit  saplentem  pucere  barbam 
Atque  a  Fabricio  non  tristem  ponte  revert! . 

Hor.t  Sat.  iL  S. 

It  has  two  large  arches,  with  a 
smaller  one  between  them  in  case  of 
floods.  It  retuns  more  of  its  ancient 
architecture  than  any  other  bridge 
except  that  of  St.  Angelo.  It  for- 
merly had  the  following  inscription, 
but  a  part  only  is  now  legible : —  l. 

FABRICIUS  C.  F.  CVR.  YIA&.  FACIVNDVM 
COE&AVrr  IDXMQ.  raOBAVJT  Q.  LEPXDVS 
M.  F.  M.  LOLLIVS  M.  F.  COS.  S.  C.  FROBA- 
▼KRVNT. 

•  6.  Fonte  S,  Bartolommeo,  a  conti- 
nuation of  the  former,  connecting  the 
island  of  the  Tiller  witii  the  Traste- 
▼ere.  It  is  the  Pons  Cestius  or  Gra- 
tianus.  Its  founder  is  unknown,  but 
two  long  inscriptions  on  the  parapets 
and  on  the  sides  show  that  it  was  re- 
stored about  A.  D.  367,  by  the  em- 
perors Valentinian,  Valens,  and  Gra- 
tian.  It  consists  of  one  large  central 
arch  and  two  smaller  ones. 

7.  Ponte  Rotto,  on  the  site  of  the 
Pons  Palatinus.  The  ancient  bridge 
was  begun  by  Marcus  Fulvius,  and 
finished  by  Scipio  African  us  and  Mum- 
mius,  the  censors,  b.c.  142.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  first  stone 
bridge  built  in  Rome.  We  know 
nothing  of  its  subsequent  history  until 
we  find  it  mentioned  in  the  middle 
ages  under  the  name  of  P.  di  Santa 
jNIaria.  In  the  13th  century  it  fell 
down,  and  was  rebuilt  by  Uonorius 
III.  It  was  restored  by  Julius  IIL 
in  1554,  and  again  by  Gregory 
XIII.  in  1575.  In  1598  all  that 
portion  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
broke  down.  Two  arches  were  thus 
lost,  and  no  Bttempt  has  since  been 
made  to  rettore  ibem.  The  part  re- 
maiaing  eooMtgU  of  three  arches*  on 


the  side  next  the  Trastevere,  with 
two  smaller  arches  between  them* 
through  which  the  water  only  runs 
when  the  river  is  much  flooded.  The 
ruined  and  broken  state  of  this  frag- 
ment sufficiently  explains  the  modern 
name.  It  is  best  seen  from  the  bank 
of  the  Viver  a  little  above  the  temple 
of  Vesta.  Near  the  Trastevere  ex- 
tremity of  the  bridge  is  seen  a  portion 
of  the  ancient  Via  Palatina,  composed 
of  polygonal  blocks  of  lava. 

8.  Pons  Sublicius,  the  oldest  and 
most  celebrated  of  all  the  Roman 
bridges.  It  was  first  built  of  wood 
by  Ancus  Martins,  the  fourth  king. 
It  was  upon  this  bridge  that  Horatius 
Cocles  withstood  the  army  of  Por- 
sena  till  the  Romans  had  succeeded 
in  breaking  it  down  behind  him.  This 
act  of  heroism  made  it  so  sacred,  that 
it  could  never  afterwards  be  repaired 
without  the  sanction  of  the  pontifib. 
It  was  destroyed  by  a  great  flood  In 
the  time  of  Augustus,  and  was  then 
rebuilt  of  stone  by  M.  ^milius  Le» 
pidus,  the  censor.  It  suffered  fre- 
quently from  inundations,  and  vras 
restored  by  Tiberius  and  Antoninus 
Pius.  A  coin  of  the  latter  emperor 
is  extant  representing  this  bridge  as  a 
broken  arch.  In  the  reign  of  Adrian  I., 
in  780,  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  an 
inundation.  In  the  15th  century  the 
remains  of  the  piers  were  removed 
to  make  cannon  balls,  and  the  only 
trace  of  the  bridge  now  left  are  the 
basements,  which  may  be  seen,  when 
the  river  is  low,  nearly  opposite  the 
hospital  of  San  Michele. 


*'  £t  que  tanta  Aiit  Romam  tibi  causa  vl- 
dcndi?"  yirg.,Bucol.i.  , 

There  has  scarcely  been  any  ques- 
tion so  frequently  discussed  as  that 
which  relates  to  the  best  mode  of  seeing 
the  mirabilia  of  Rome.     It  must  be 
confessed  that  it  has  seldom  been  sa- 
tisfactorily answered,  because  it  has 
not  been  sufficiently  considered  that 
no  systematic  plan  caw  W  Vv^^  ^orqi'Qk 
which  wiW  be  ec^uaWj  «<^^vcs\iViN»  ^^ 
classes  oC  ttaNe\\ex%.   'YVv^^iV^^^ '•^ 
proVwb\Y  ptefet  lYieVAsVoi  V.x*Rva%^ 


308     n.  27.— ilOMK.— i4nri?Ktffe»;  General  Surety,    t^^ct.  I. 


I ;  tiR'  ni 


tiqua 


1  researohea  wjl 
the  king^  aad  fallow 
Rome  tliroogli  her  ei 
innits,  dowTi  to  the  final  eitmction  of 
art  under  the  later  ranperors  ;  the  et- 
-cTesiHstii;  vill  very  possibly  b^in  witb 
die  basiliciu  and  churnbes  which  cover 


the 


9  of  E 


and  the  atiiat  will  nalurally  seek  to 
deriie  his  first  impreasionsfi-om  Ibose 
miraclei  of  geniua  which  have  miide 
Kome  the  centre  of  aniient  and  mo- 
dern art.  The  Roman  guidp-booli* 
for  about  three  iguiirtere  of  a  century 
bave  nrran^d  the  city  in  tight  topo- 
grnphical  divisions,  each  of  which 
may  be  seen  in  a  single  day.  In  this 
manner  objecta  of  every  class  are 
thrown  together  iritbout  order  or  ar- 


angeraen 


it  gone  Ihrough  the  whole 
entirely  unable  to  arrive  at  enjf  idea 
of  the  relative  interest  of  the  objccte, 
or  to  linow  bow  much  or  how  little 
Home  contains  of  any  particular  class. 
We  believe  thst  very  ftw  travellers 
have  ever  eompletely  followed  out 
Vaai's  system  of  seeing  Rome  in  eight 
days,  though  we  are  aware  that  En- 
glish tourists  hove  not  been  wanting 
who  have  boasted  that  tbey  have 
beaten  the  antiquaries,  and  done  it  in 
aix-  Tbe  aalj  advantage  it  possesses 
is  the  merit  of  being  expeditious,  and 
of  enabling  the  travEller,  in  the  least 
possible  time,  to  ascertain  for  himself 
what  is  and  what  is  not  worth  seeing, 
and  of  noting  those  objects  which  de- 
serve fiitlhi  ~. .        . 


vantage  may   be 
by  less  exception 


bink, 


■  must  proeecil,  in  the  first  place,  lo  1i 
!    Capitol,    and  there   learn  the   lopo- 

■  graphy  of  the  ancient  oily.      An  hour 
■       ■    '    o  this  purpose  will  ^ive  the 

I  Bininger  a  more  complete  idea  of 
-  Home  than  days  spent  in  the 
■y  mode  of  investigation  i  and 
DimBlion  obtained  in  regard  to 

L    the  snrtounding  country  will  mate- 

■  tiaUy  assist  him  in  bis  future  cxcur- 
suiis  imiiirayei  for  general  instruotion  1  siona  bejoni  ft\B  w 

or  mnasement,  will  always  visit  a  city  \  of  t\ieae  a4^aTAij,<»,  ftve^e 
like  Home  in  districts.   The  great,  nod  linHiewartitftme  vtn^tew 


na.  Webe- 
avellers  form 
plan  for  themselves,  altogether  inde- 
pendently of  boolts ;  and  thst  no  ge- 
neral rule  can  be  laid  down  to  which 

the  objects  which  will  engage  the  i 


we  think,  the  only  difficully,  is  lo  at- 
tempt lo  fix  the  divisioiit  ot  Ihese'dis- 
triots;  audit  ispreeiselyforthis reason 
that  wc  would  leave  the  point  to  the 
taste  and  convenience  of  the  tiaveller, 
supplying  him  with  the  oeoessary  in- 
formation arranged  in  such  a  manner 

ject  wbieli  may  possess  auflieient  in- 
terest to  require  notice.  With  this 
view,  thwefore,  we  have  arranged  the 
difTerent  objects  of  attraction  in  Home 
tinder  separate  claBses,  observing,  as 
far  as  pcesibie,  a  systematic  ariange- 
nient  of  the  details.      For  facility  of 


vantages;  and  it  bas  this  additional 
one  view  a  complete  catalogue  of  ob- 


which  V 


3Uld  b 


'd  parts  ofany  work 
on  the  topograjihiciil  or  chronological 
arrangement. 

The  AxiiauiIiES. 
Whoever  would  appreciate  and  en- 
Joy  tbe  ruins  of  Rome  will  find  it  ait- 
aolutelyneoeasary.before  he  enters  into 

ments,  to  make  himself  acquainted 
with  their  relative  position. and  olasafy 
them  in  such  a  manner  as  may  enable 
himtouoderatandtheirhistory.  There 
is  DO  spot  so  peculiarly  adapted  for  this 

tbe  Toaer  of  Ou  Capitol; 

not  hesitate  to  say  that  'a 

dersland  tbe  antiquities,  to  study  them 
with  the  least  difficulty  tobiinselC  and 
to  ovoid  the  venation  arising  from  a 
lulhoritiea. 


purposi 


Papal  States.']  r.  27. — Rome. — Antiquities;  Gen.  Survey.     S(fT 


iiificent  than  that  commanded  by  this 
spot.  It  is  not  inferior  in  historical 
interest  to  the  glorious  panorama  from 
the  Acropolis  of  Athens,  while  it  sur- 
passes it  in  those  higher  associations 
which  appeal  so  powerfully  to  the 
feelings  t^the  Christian  traveller. 

In  the  first  place,  it  will  be  useful  to 
take  a  general  survey  of  the  country, 
as  seen  from  the  summit  of  the  tower. 

The  Campagna,  or  the  undulating 
irregular  plain  which  spreads  on  all 
sides  around  Rome,  includes  part  of 
ancient  Ladum  and  part  of  Etruria. 
Its  length  from  Civita  Vecchia  tp 
Terracina  is  estimated  at  100  miles ; 
its  greatest  breadth  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  sea  is  about  40  miles. 
On  the  north  and  north-east  it  is 
bounded  by  the  Monte  Cimino  and 
the  chain  of  the  Sabine  hills;  on 
the  east,  by  the  Volscian  moun- 
tains, which  run  due  south  and 
form  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
Pontine  Marshes,  which  lie  between 
them  and  the  sea.  The  Sabine  hills 
surround  like  an  amphitheatre  the 
whole  expanse  of  the  northern  Cam- 
pagna; while  the  more  picturesque 
and  richly  wooded  mountains  which 
bound  the  plain  of  Latium  are  studded 
with  vill^^es,  each  representing  some 
scene  of  historic  or  poetic  interest. 
Along  the  plain  from  north  to  south 
the  Tiber  is  seen  winding  in  a  long 
yellow  line,  marking  the  ancient 
boundary  between  Latium  and  Etru- 
ria. In  the  foreground  on  one  side 
are  the  ruins  of  all  that  made  Rome 
the  mistress  of  tlie  world;  on  the 
other  are  the  palaces  and  churches  of 
the  modem  city  ;  so  that  the  Capitol 
may  be  said  to  separate  the  living 
from  the  dead— the  city  of  the  Popes 
from  that  of  the  Cssars. 

In  the  chain  of  hills  towards  the 
east  tlie  highest  point  is  the  Alban 
Mount,  now  Monte  Cavif  on  which 
the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Latialisare  still  visible.  Beneath  the 
summit,  and  about  midway  betwe^i 
it  and  the  plain,  is  Albano  ;  a  little  to 
the  Xoih,  the  tower  of  Cattd  Gonddfo 
mmy  be  aeea  maud  the  duk  woods 
bordering  thm  leke  of  Albano ;  and 


farther  on  the  right  is  the  low  hill  of 
Civita  Lavinia,  the  Lanuvium  of 
Cicero.  The  Iwig  ridge  forming  the 
opposite  boundary  of  the  lake  is  the 
supposed  site  of  Alba  Longa.  On  the 
left  of  Monte  Cavi  is  a  small  open 
plain,  called  the  Camp  of  Hannibal^ 
the  position  of  the  Carthaginian  garri* 
son  during  the  siege  of  Rome.  A  little 
below  this  plain,  the  village  of  Rocca 
di  Papa,  perched  upon  the  crest  of  a 
rock,  is  supposed  to  mark  the  Arx 
Albana  of  Liyy,  to  which  the  Gauls 
were  repulsed  in  their  attack  on  Rome. 
On  the  lower  slopes  are  Marino  and 
GroUa^Fenraitu  Farther  to  the  left, 
on  the  nearest  point  of  the  chain,  is 
Fnueati,  In  the  distance  beyond  is 
the  lof^  summit  of  Monte  Algido,  the 
**  gelidus  Algidus  "  of  Horace,  from 
which  Rome  still  derives  her  supplies 
of  snow.  In  a  line  between  it  and 
Frascati  is  the  site  of  Tusculum.  Far- 
ther to  the  left  are  Monte  Porzio  and 
Monte  Compatri ;  and  on  the  last  and 
lowest  eminence  is  the  picturesque 
village  of  CoUmnOf  occupying  the  site 
of  Labioum. 

The  opening  of  the  plain  lying  in 
the  depression  between  the  chain  of 
Monte  Cavi  and  tliat  of  the  Sabine 
hills  may  be  distinctly  recognised  be* 
tween  Colonna  and  the  distant  town 
of  PalestrinOf  the  **frigidum  Praeneste** 
of  Horace.  Among  the  1>arren  range 
of  these  hills  the  principal  town  dis- 
tinguishable from  this  point  is  Tivolit 
the  ancient  Tibur,  surrounded  by  olive- 
grounds  and  woods.  From  that  point 
the  Anio  flows  into  the  plain  towards 
its  junction  with  the  Tiber,  separating 
Latium  from  the  ancient  country  of 
the  Sabines  in  its  course.  Beyond 
Tivoli  we  recognise  the  lofty  heights 
of  Monte  Genaro,  the  Lucretilis  of 
Horace ;  and  in  the  foreground  at  the 
base  of  the  Apennines,  the  hill  and  . 
town  of  Monte  Uotondo,  the  probable 
site  of  the  Alban  colony  of  Crustume- 
riura.  Nearer  Rome,  close  to  Caetd 
Giubileo,  is  the  site  of  Fidena;.  At 
the  extreme  end  o(  th«  Cvnv'^%w'aL  S& 
tho  o\asuca\  Soroste,  N«>a«»  \s«J«JwA 
mass  form*  to  %uViL«i%  «.  ^<»5w.x5fc  ^ 
tho  \andw»9e  ^^X  \X.  c«a  w*«  ^ 


308    H.  27. — HO%rR. — Antitptkles ;  the  Seven  BitU.       f  Sect.  £ 


I 


misUkeo.  It  consli luted  Ihc  ncirllicm 'Ihi 
boundotj  of  ihe  SHbine  lorritotj-,  and  ihi 
KpBiateJ  it  from  Etiurio. 

We  ihall  L101T  proceed  to  point  out 
the  leading  feitum  ofancienC  Kanic, 
without  stopping  to  desctibc  more 
lluD  is  abaoluttfly  necessery  for  ,the 
puriXHe,  u  s  detailed  sccoudL  of  each 
ruin  i>  given  in  a  subsequent  p»ge. 

The  fint  oljjectt  which  vill  excite 
til*  curiositir  of  the  traveller  Bie  the 
AMU  miU.  These  may  be  recogoised 
f>  intbout  much  diiBculty  from  our  pre- 
Luot  poaition,  which  comnunda  also 
anuf  mtereating  ruina  that  mull  ne-  i  torn 
eenarily  b«  included  in  the  fallowing  { hilii 
general  surrey.  Beginning  with  the  the  Forum 
Capitol,  it  nil)  bo  observed  that  the 
totrer  on  which  we  stand,  and  the 
great  square  of  palaces  of  wliich  it 
fbmis  a  part,  occupy  a  depression  be. 
tween  the  Church  of  Am  Csli  and 
Ihe  PhLuio  Cafiaielll  These  sum- 
mits n-ere  the  Arx  and  the  Capito- 
liumj  the  speoe  between  them,  on 
vhose  easteru  margin  ive  are  of  course 
plued.  was  called  the  latermonlium. 
Without  entering  into  the  disputed 
questions  respeeling  these  two  sum- 
mits, ur  attempting  to  deside  which 
inu  the  An  and  which  the  Capito- 
lium,  we  shall  merely  state  that  the 
Church  of  Ara  Cceli  is  generally  sup- 
posed to  marit  the  site  of  the  Temple 
of  Jupiter  Feretrius  ;  and  that  most 
■nti(]iiariBS  place  on  the  other  summit 
the  great  Temple  of  Jupiter  Cspllo- 
linui  and  the  Citadel.  In  the  gardeog 
of  the  palace  may  still  be  seen  many 

to  be  the  substructions  of  the  temple; 
and  fjutber  towards  the  river,  in  s 

Erden  on  the  Monte  Caprino,  we  still 
d,  altbougli  diminished  in  height 
by  the  accumulation  of  soil,  a  con- 
riderable  portion  of  the  Tarpeiao 
Bock.  From  the  Capital,  as  a  cen- 
tral point,  we  may  trace  a  semicircle 
from  the  Pincian  Hill,  on  the  northern 
side  uf  the  modem  city,  to  the  Aven- 
tine  lui  the  saath,  embracing  in  its 
circuit  the  Une  of  the  existing  walls. 
This  area  iacludea  nearly  the   whole 


'cgular  space  which  lies 
immediately  below  us:  it  will  sevre 
as  a  guiding-line  in  enabling  us  to 
fix  the  limits  of  the  hills.  The  locali- 
ties of  this  classical  spot  are  descril)ed 
in  a  subsetjucnl  page,  under  the  article 
"  Forum,"  and  need  not,  therefore,  he 
repealed  here  ;  but  the  stranger  will 

and  become  acqtutiuted  with  the  rela- 
tive position  of  tho  ruins  before  he 
descends  into  the  Forum. 

Tlie  Capilolma,  on  which  we  stand, 

!  the  southern  angle  of 
the  Paliilinf,  the  scat  of 
the  earliest  settlement  of  Rome,  co- 
vered with  the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of 
l!io  Ccsars,  in  the  midst  of  vineyards 
and  gardens.      Fartlier  to   the  light 

washed  by  the  Tiber,  and  its  summit 
crowned  by  a  solitary  convent  Be- 
tween those  two  hills  was  the  Circus 
Alaiimus.  Over  the  Coliseum,  the 
eye  rests  on  riie  magtiificent  Basilica 

Ireme  boiiudary  of  the  Csfion.  Nortlt 
of  Ihe  Qelian,  and  consequently  on 
the  left  of  the  Coliseum,  is  the  Esqui- 
Hnc,  more  extensive  than  any  of  the 
other  hills,  and  marked  at  its  southern 
extremity  by  the  ruins  of  the  Baths 
of  Titus,  at  its  northern  imgle  by  the 
Church  of  Santa  Maria  Maggiore, 
while  the  ruined  dome  of  the  Temple 
of  Minerva  Medica  indicates  its  ex- 
treme boundary  on  the  east  The 
Qairlnal,  a  long  narrow  hill,  beglm 
at  the  Fonim  of  Trnjan,  visible  from 
the  eastern  angle  of  the  tower.  We 
can  easily  see  from  this  point  that  a 
portion  of  the  hill  has  been  removed 
to  make  room  for  Trajan's  Forum,  ■■ 
we  shall  And  stated  hereafter  ia  the 
inscription  on  the  column.  The  nss- 
sive  square  Iow«'  of  the  middle  age% 
called  the  Tor  de'  Conti,  and  the 
walla  of  the  Forums  of  Augustus  imd 
Nerva,  assist  us  in  marking  the  line 
I  vhicb  separates  the  base  of  the  Qui< 
li\iia.\    fvom  feft^   ol    \.te  ^iOfiUine. 


Q.ovt\ 


a  ^lie 


Papal  States}  R.27. — Rome. — AntiquUiea ;  Kingly  Period.  309 


l>ehind  the  Colonna  Palace,  It  is 
covered  with  buildings,  among  which 
the  most  conspicuous  is  the  Palace  of 
the  Pope  on  the  Monte  Cayallo,  its 
highest  point.  Tlie  VimiTuU,  between 
the  Quirinal  and  the  Esquiline,  is  re- 
markable for  its  flat  surface,  which 
makes  it  difficult  to  distinguish ;  but 
part  of  it  is  covered  by  the  Baths  of 
Diocletian,  and  a  line  drawn  from  the 
Capitol  to  the  Baths  nearly  intersects 
it.  The  Church  of  S.  Lorenzo  in 
Pane  e  Perna  occupies  nearly  its 
highest  point,  and  the  hill  may  be 
distinctly  traced  in  the  gardens  behind 
it.  In  walking  from  the  Trinita  de* 
Monti  to  S.  Maria  Maggiore,  the 
ascent  of  the  Quirinal  and  Viminal 
may  be  distinctly  recognised.  These 
are  the  seven  hills  included  within 
tlie  walls  of  Servius  Tullius ;  but 
there  are  others  beyond  those  limits, 
which  it  is  necessary  to  particularise. 
North  of  the  Quirinal  is  Monte  Pineio, 
the  CoUis  Hortulorum,  the  favourite 
promenade  of  the  modern  Romans. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  Tiber  is  the 
Janieulum,  at  whose  base  lies  the 
modern  district  of  Trastevere ;  at  its 
southern  extremity  is  the  Monte  Verde, 
overlooking  the  Tiber;  beyond  the 
Janieulum  to  the  north  is  the  Vatican; 
and  in  the  extreme  distance,  forming 
the  boundary  of  our  present  prospect, 
is  the  Monte  Mario,  covered  with 
villas  and  plantations.  The  area  be- 
tween the  Janieulum  and  the  Pincian, 
forming  a  semicircle,  of  which  the 
Capitol  is  the  centre,  includes  nearly 
the  whole  of  modem  Rome.  The 
last  hill  which  remains  to  be  noticed 
18  the  artificial  hill  of  Monte  Testaceio, 
so  called  from  the  fragments  of  earthen 
vessels  of  which  it  is  composed ;  it  is 
situated  in  the  southern  angle,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Aventine,  between  the 
river  and  the  pyramid  of  Caius  Ces- 
tius,  which  the  Aventine  conceals 
from  our  present  view. 

The  RuiMS  OF  Rome  may  be  divided 
into  three  classes:   1.  The  works  of 
the  Kings ;  2.  The  works  of  the  Re- 
public ;  S.  The  works  of  the  Empire. 
7.  Tlte  Kin^y  Period  (b.  c   753 — 
S09),     Th9  emuidenUon  oi  this  first 


class  naturally  carries  us  back  to'the 
early  history  of  Rome ;  but  to  enter 
into  minute  particulars  on  that  sub- 
ject would  obviously  be  out  of  place 
in  a  work  of  this  description,  and 
would  involve  details  with  which  the 
traveller  may  be  presumed  to  he  al- 
ready familiar.  It  will,  therefore,  be 
sufficient  for  our  present  purpose  to 
state  that  the  Latin  settlement  attri* 
buted  to  Romulus  was  situated  on 
the  Palatine,  the  scene  of  the  earlier 
settlement  oif  Evander  and  his  Arca- 
dians, and  was  probably  not  more 
than  a  mile  in  circumference.  The 
Sabine  colony  of  Tatius  occupied  the 
Capitolin^and  the  Quirinal,  the  Capi- 
toline  being  their  citadeL  The  Etrus- 
cans had  their  settlements  on  the 
Caelian  and  parts  of  the  Esquiline, 
the  chief  of  which  was  called  Luce- 
rum;  they  were  dependent  on  the 
others,  and  had  no  king,  and  were  at 
length  compelled  by  the  Romans  to 
descend  into  the  plain  between  the 
Cselian  and  the  Esquiline,  which  de- 
rived from  them  the  name  of  the 
Vicus  Tuscus.  In  these  times  there 
were  small  marshy  lakes  or  swamps 
between  the  Palatine  and  Aventine, 
and  between  the  Palatine  and  the 
Capitoline.  The  union  of  the  three 
settlements  led  to  the  gradual  increase 
of  the  city,  and,  in  less  than  1 50  years 
from  the  foundation  of  Romulus,  the 
Cloaca  Maxima,  one  of  the  most  an- 
cient architectural  monuments  of 
Rome,  was  constructed  to  drain  the 
marshes.  The  valley  between  the 
Palatine  and  the  Capitoline  was  then 
set  apart  for  the  general  assemblies 
of  the  united  nations,  and  became, 
under  the  name  of  the  Forum,  the 
seat  and  centre  of  Roman  greatness. 
The  western  slopes  of  the  Palatine 
were  the  scenes  of  those  poetical  tra- 
ditions which  are  identified  with  the 
early  history  of  the  city,  and  anti- 
quaries have  not  been  wanting  who 
have  seriously  fixed  the  site  of  the 
Ruminal  fig-tree,  the  altar  of  Her- 
cules, the  Lupercal,  and  even  the  cave 
of  Cacuft.  TVv^\«x\wS&^<^^««w\»^ 
out  in  t\\e  Ao^pw  ol  W^  Knc©5Cvsw^i  ^;^ 
the  side  newffX  ^iJaft  Ttow,  Vw«^^^ 


MA  'Bi'filU^KOifai.r— ^fi^Hjitiwy  B^nAlietm  Perisd.  [SecLf.  . 


hill  exbiliils  diiliuct  traces  of  volcanic 
■etiDn:  ihe  other  poeticnl  Hntir|uities 
had  riiuppeared,  like  the  lakes  of 
Curtint  Mid  Juturna,  Iwfore  tile  lime 
of  the  empire.  The  few  temaios  of 
Ou!  kingly  period  whirli  arc  now  cs- 
Unt  are  entirely  in  the  Etruscan 
ttyle,  built  of  Urge  ijuailrilateral 
Uook*.  like  the  Trails  of  Volterra, 
CoTtona.  and  other  eilies  of  Etruria. 
Theie  remains  are  the  Mnmerlino 
{inioua,  begun  by  Anciia  Martius 
(s.  0.  640),  and  enlarged  bj  Serrius 
TQUiu)i<B.C.  S7S);  tlie  Cloaca  Mai. 
in»ofTarquiiiiu!,Friscu,(B.c.6I6); 
part  of  the  celebrated  rampart  or 
aggtr  of  Servnis  TnlHua  ^  c.  578), 
atill  lisible  on  the  Quirinal  io  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Barberini  and 
ti>e  Villa  Negroni ;  and  the  remains 
of  the  quay,  or  "pulchrum  lillus,"on 
the  left  bank  of  Ihe  Tiber,  below  the 
month  of  the  Cloaca  Maxima. 

9.  The  RtpHblican  Period  (h.  c.  309 
— 30).  —  II  has  frequently  been  a 
nutter  of  regret  to  the  cUiuical  tra- 

public.  It  is  quite  certain  that  there 
are  scarcely  nny  remains  of  this  period ; 

fanpresaions  vould  lead  us  to  look  for 


might  a 
tbe  memory  of  the  heroes  and  patriots 
of  Home,   il  is  more  than    probable 
that  there  is  not  a  single   fragment 

sons  have  been  advanced  to  account 

tbr   this  riroumtlanoe;  but    the   ei- 

pUnstion  whioh  ia  at  once  the  most 

prcAiable  and  tbe  most  supported  by 

iiklorical   evidence  is  that  suggested 

br  the  isct  that  the  continued  wdrs 

■od  transient  character  of  the  consu- 

lap  government  were  unfevourablo  to 

the  erection  of  great  public  edifices. 

Tie  destruetioD   of  the  city  by  the 

Gauls  (b.  c.    388),  about  120  years 

after  tbe  esUblishment  of  the  republic, 

no  duubt  involved  the  toss  of  many 

worku  both  of  the  kingly  and  repub- 

Jjcan  periods.      Tbe  reeoustruclion  of 

tbe  city  seems  to  have  been  loo  liasty  \ 

to  allow  much  Mttenlion  to  tlie  atts, 

and  it   was  not  until  a  compatatively 


late  period  that  Some  began  to 
dei^orated  with  temples,  and  supplied 
with  paved  roads  and  aqueducts  oT 
masonry.  It  was  not  until  the  fall  of 
Corinth  and  of  Carthage  that  Home 
was  distinguished  by  Ihe  nsngniliee 
of  her  public  buildings.  The  in( 
duction  ofnew  diyinitiei  required  neir 
and  more  splendid  temples,  and  the 
luxury  and  taste  acquired  in  tbe  con- 
quest of  Greece  naturally  led  to  tbe 

on  a  more  spacious  and  costly  plan 
than  had  been  previously  adopted. 
Tlie  boast  of  Augustus  Ihat  he  found 
Rome  of  brick  and  left  it  of  mnti  " 
may  be  taken  as  a  collateral  proof  of 
the  architectural  mediocrity  of  the 
republican  city.  Still,  during  the  law 
century  of  the  republic  several  public 
works  of  considerable  magnitude  wer 
eiecuted  The  military  ways,  paved 
with  large  blocks  of  lava,  and  particu- 
larly tbe  magnificent  Via  Appia,  con- 
structed by  Appius  Claudius  and 
still  perfect  tbrougli  a  great  portion 
of  its  course,  served  as  a  model  (or 
tbe  paved  roads  of  later  times;  but  tbe 
remains  of  other  republican  structures 
which  can  now  be  recognised  are  very 
few.  There  is  little  doubt  that  tbe 
massive  substructions  under  tile  Fl- 
laiio  CafTarelli,  on  the  Capitoline, 
are  the  foundations  of  some  edifiee  of 


niblic, 


bably 


temple    of  Jupiter    Capite 
stored  by  Sylla,  a.  c.  83.      Tbe  ■ 
below  the  Tabularium  at  the  base  of 
the    Capitol,     and     overlooking    I 

consequently  belong  to  the  latter  part 
of  this  period.  Like  the  military 
ways,  they  appear  to  prove  that  in  all 
the  great  works  of  the  republic  the 
solidity  which  marks  those  of  the 
kings  was  generally  imitated.  Of  tbe 
republican  temph 
standing  which  s 

to  this  antiquity  is  the  temple  of 
Fortuna  Virilis,  now  the  church  of 
Santa  Maria  Eglzziaca,  near  the  Ponte 
Uotto.  It  is  known  that  the  ordinal 
I  tem^te  an^\s  i!.\!Qt,  built  by  Serviu 

^ing  1.)ie  iepvftlV«'i  Wv  ^lo-"  ^^  < 


Papal  Siate9.'}   R«  27* — rome. — AnUquiUes;  the  Enipire,     311 


present  temple  may  have  undergone 
subsequent  alterations  is  uncertain. 
Below  the  iralls  of  San  Niccolo  in 
Carcere  are  some  substructions  of  the 
t&oaples  of  Juno  Matutm  Hope,  and 
Piety ;  and  in  the  cloisters  of  the 
Sommascbi  are  four  columns  of  the 
temple  of  Hercules  Gustos. 

The  aqueducts  irhich  were  begun 
during  this  period  were  mostly  under- 
ground, with  the  exception  of  the 
Marcian.  A  long  line  of  this  noble 
aqueduct  is  still  standing,  but  little 
appears  to  belong  to  the  republican 
period  except  the  foundations,  and  it 
is  almost  impossible  to  distinguish 
the  original  work  from  the  additions 
and  restorations  made  during  the 
early  period  of  the  empire.  The 
theatre  of  Pompey  may  still  be  traced 
under  the  cellars  of  the  Palazzo  Pio. 
The  foundations  of  the  Pons  Pala- 
tinus,  now  the  Ponte  Rotto;  some 
portions  of  the  Pons  Fabricius,  now 
the  Ponte  di  Quattro  Capi,  connect- 
ing the  island  of  the  Tiber  with  the 
left  bank ;  and  the  facing  of  travertine 
at  the  southern  point  of  the  island, 
which  formed  part  of  the  **  ship  "  of 
2Bsculapius;  are  likewise  considered 
to  be  republican  works.  But  the 
principal  republican  reradins  are  the 
tombs.  At  the  foot  of  the  Capitoline, 
and  placed  so  near  the  wails  of  Servius 
TuUius  that  many  authorities  have 
described  it  as  being  within  the  limits 
of  the  city,  is  the  tomb  of  Bibulus. 
It  is  situated  in  the  Via  Marforio, 
and  is  universally  admitted  to  be  a 
republican  ruin.  The  principal  tombs 
of  this  period  are  on  the  Appian  Way. 
Between  the  old  walls  of  Servius 
TuUius  and  the  Porta  di  S.  Sebas- 
tiano  is  the  most  interesting  of  these 
remains  —  the  tomb  of  the  Scipio  &• 
mily,  now  a  subterranean  vault,  from 
which  the  sarcophagi  and  inscriptions 
in  the  Vatican  Museum  were  ob- 
tained. Beyond  the  gate  is  the  mag- 
nificent circular  tomb  of  Cecilia  Me- 
tella ;  and  fiirther  on,  in  the  midst  oi 
the  plain,  is  the  sepulchre  of  the  great 
republican  fiimily  of  the  ServiliL 

3.  TAeEmpin(a.c.  SO^a.d.  476). 
--^  However  much   the  classical  en- 


thusiasm inspired  by  the  recollections 
of  the  republic  may  surpass  the  feel- 
ings excited  by  those  of  the  empire^ 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  this  was 
the  era  when  Rome  assumed  her 
greatest  magnificence,  and  nearly  all 
the  monuments  we  now  see  belong- 
to  this  period.  It  was  the  aim  of 
Augustus  to  extend  the  limits  of  the 
city,  and  to  embellish  it  with  work» 
of  splendour  and  luxury.  The  Campus 
Martins  during  his  reign  was  gra- 
dually covered  with  public  buildings, 
and,  like  many  cities  of  modern  times, 
the  ancient  walls  of  Servius  TuUius 
soon  included  but  a  small  portion  of 
the  city,  and  were  at  length  lost 
among  the  new  buildings.  The  influ- 
ence of  Greek  art  and  a  taste  for  co- 
lossal architecture  may  be  clearly 
traced  through  all  the  imperial  works  i 
the  palaces,  the  aqueducts,  the  his- 
torical columns,  and  the  tombs  of  this 
period,  are  all  on  a  scale  different 
from  preceding  examples ;  and,  when 
compared  with  the  unity  and  sim- 
plicity of  earlier  times,  everything 
appears  exaggerated.  Another  p&> 
culiarity  is  the  general  adoption  of 
the  Corinthian  style,  not  indeed  in 
its  original  purity,  but  with  a  variety 
of  ornament  which  clearly  marks  the 
decUne  of  art. 

Augustus  began  on  the  Palatine 
the  first  palace  of  the  Caesars,  and 
filled  the  Campus  Martins  with  tem- 
ples, arcades,  theatres,  and  other 
buUdings,  to  an  extent  almost  innu- 
merable. Of  the  works  which  have 
survived  to  the  present  time  we  may 
mention  the  remains  of  a  Forum 
which  bore  his  name;  the  three  co- 
lumns of  the  temple  of  Saturn  in  the 
Forum ;  the  three  beautiful  columns 
at  the  angle  of  the  Palatine,  long 
called  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Stator 
and  the  Grascostasis,  but  now  sup- 
posed to  be  the  temple. of  Minerva 
Chalcidica ;  the  theatre  of  Marcellus ; 
the  portico  of  Octavia ;  and  the  mau- 
soleum of  the  empeior  himself,  be- 
tween the  Corso  and  the  Tiber^  now 
used  as  a  c\ic\i&  mA  l3cv«a}«^  Sax  ^'t 
\  lower  cVaaseft  o^  \X\ft  'Sjovsvmi  ^o^v^-aRfc. 
\  The  pyiatnid  oi  C«i>3.%  Oi^>Lvvx^  ^svSiM? 


&.S7.— AOHlfe — AtUifUftieaf  the  Empire 


81S 

Protestant  btirinl-nroiind 
bablverectcdnbeullhislime.  Agrippa, 
follo'irm);  (he  einrnple  oT  hia  n 
conltibulad  Inrgely  to  the  emb 
mint  or  RamE,  and  cDiiiitruc 
series  oFbalhs  in  the  Campus  Mi 
wbich  serred  aa  the  model  of  those 
immense  structures  erected  by  the 
later  emperors,  H  La  great  vork,  how. 
eter,  was  the  Pantheon  (a.  c.  9t),  the 
best'pTescrred  monument  of  Hi 
It  atljnined  his  bitha,  and  pralialily 

Druius,  vho  died  a.  c.  9.  wns  erected 
to  hia  memory  by  the  aennle  after  his 
death,  and  is  the  oUlesl  triiimphsl 
■rcb  in  Rome.  The  arch  of  Dola- 
bella,  on  the  Ctelian,  was  erected,  as 
the  inscription  tella  ua,  in  the  con- 
Butole  of  tMabelln  and  Silsnus,  which 
waa,  we  know,  in  the  tenth  year  of 
our  era,  and  consequently 
quity  cannot  be  much  later 
of  Druaus.  Tiberius  fA.n.  14)  began 
the  FriDtorinn  camp,  whose  fan 
still  bo  traced  in  the  north-i 
angle  of  the  city,  psriicularly 
vineyard  of  the  Villa  Macno,  and  built 
the  temple  of  Ceres  and  Froaerpine, 
wbose  columns  and  cella  sre  preserved 
in  the  church  uf  S.  Maria  in  Coamedin 
nt  the  Boccii  di  Vcriti  Caligulo 
(a.  □.  38)  enlarged  the  palace  on  the 
Palaane;  and  Claudius  <*.  n.  41)  con- 
structed that  noble  aqueduel  wliiuh 
is  still  the  admimtion  of  the  world. 
But  bU  these  works  ivere  eclipsed  by 
the  magniRcent  building  of  Nei 
it.  D.  Si).  Tbe  lire  which  he  ia  ai 
cused  of  kindling  destroyed  the  e? 
iating  palace  on  the  Palatine,  and  upo 
its  ruins  arose  the  gohlea  house  i 
Nero,  occupying  a  spate  equal  to  Ihi 
of  a  large  town,  Riling  the  valley  of 
the  Coliseum,  and  diaplncingthehouse 
and  gardens  of  Mscenas  on  the  Es- 
quiline.  Nero  also  rebuilt  a  larpe 
portion  of  Rome,  and  constructed 
baths,  now  covered  by  modem  palaces, 
between  the  Pantheon  and  the  Piaiza 
Madamo.  He  completed  the  Circus 
of  Caligula,  partly  occupied  by  Si. 
I'eler's  and  the  Vatican  Pnlnce,  and' 
meaiorable  as  (lie  sjiol  on  which  many 
«>/■  llie  early  Christians  suffcted  mar- 


tSecLL 


lyrdom.  To  Vcapoainn  (*-">.  TO)  we 
are  indebted  for  tlie  noblest  ruin  in 

ampbitheatre.  It  was  completed  and 
dedicated  by  his  successor  Titus 
(a.  n,  79),  ten  years  after  the  taking 
of  Jerusalem.  From  a  coin  of  Ve>- 
paaiau  it  appears  that  he  also  rebuilt 
the  small  circular  temple  of  Vesta 
near  the  Fonto  Rolto,  which  vai 
burnt  in  the  lire  of  Nero.  The  temple 
which  bears  his  name  in  the  Forum 
is  one  of  the  few  which  have  left  any 
eooBiderablc  ruins.  On  the  upper 
slopes  of  the  Esquiiine,  Titus  con- 
verted the  substnictiona  of  Nero's 
palaoe  into  reservoirs  and  baths,  so 
vdl  ktiovn  by  their  missive  and  pic- 
turesque niins.  Domitian  (a.d.  SI) 
enlarged  the  palace  of  the  Ciesan, 
and  began  some  hatha  near  those  of 
Titus,  which  were  more  eslenaive  in 
their  plan  than  those  of  his  prede> 
cessor,  and  were  finished  by  Tr^an. 
He  also  erected  the  beautifiil  arch  of 

ofJerusalem.   Nervs(i.D.  P6)erected 
h  still  bears  his  name  ; 
and  hisgrcat  successor  Trajan  (*.d.  9B) 

nains  show  that  it  was  one 
of  the  most  splendid   cdiiicea  in  tbg 


1  also  left  u 


\  the 


of  his  Ulpian   Boallii 

triumphal  column  one  of  the  most 

trestingmonumentsof Rome.  The 

works  of  Hadrian   (a.b.  il7)  pecu- 

liarly  mark  the  taste  for  the  coloasal 

His  temple  of  Venus  and  Rome  waa 

iTected   from    his   own    designs    and 

inder    his   personal    direction.      His 

villa  at  Tivoli,  which  will  be  noticed 

iggerated 

scale;  and  bis   mausoleum,  now  the 

Castle    of    St.  Angelo,    is    perfectly 

Egyptian  in  its  style.      Tlie   Pons 

jEliua,    now  the    Fonte    S.  Angelo, 

ilso  constructed  by  Hadrian  as 

itroncu  to  his  tomb.     It  is  the 

preserved   of    all    the     Roman 

bridges,    and,  with  the  eiception  of 

tlie  pBT»pW,s  ftVkd  some  unimportant 

\  repaiii  ncai  'l\\e  s»3.\t,  a  ewiw^-^  na- 

\cleirt.      AnVQtvmas  ?vMi   t.K.t..  \^V, 


Ptqtai  States.']  r.  27. — RO m e.  — Antiquities  ;  tJie  Empire.     3 1 3 


built  the  temple  whose  fine  colonnade 
now  forms  the  front  of  the  papal 
custom-house.  The  temple  in  tlie 
Forum  which  bears  the  name  of  this 
emperor  and  his  wife  was  raised  to 
them  by  the  senate.  The  column  of 
Marcus  Aurelius  Antoninus  (a.  d. 
261),  called  the  Antonine  Column, 
in  the  Piazza  Colonna,  though  inferior 
to  that  of  Trajan,  is  one  of  the  best- 
known  monuments  of  Rome.  The 
arch  of  Septimius  Severus  *  in  the 
Forum  was  erected  to  him  and  his 
sons  Caracalla  and  Geta  by  the  senate 
(▲.  n.  S05) ;  and  the  other  arch  which 
bears  his  name,  in  the  Velabrum,  was 
erected  in  honour  of  the  emperor,  his 
wife,  and  Caracalla,  by  the  goldsmiths 
and  dealers.  To  this  period  is  as- 
cribed  the  square  arch  of  Janus  in 
the  Velabrum,  though  its  precise  date 
is  unknown.  The  Baths  of  Caracalla 
(a.  d.  2 1 1 )  surpass  in  magnitude  all 
previous  works  of  the  same  kind : 
their  ruins  still  excite  the  surprise  of 
every  traveller,  and  are  remarkable 
as  having  supplied  the  museums  of 
our  time  with  the  Farnese  Hercules, 
the  Toro  Farnese,  the  Torso  of  the 
Bel  videre,  and  other  celebrated  statues. 
These  baths  were  completed  by  £la- 
gabalus  (a.d.  218),  and  his  successor 
Alex.  Severus  (a.d.  222).  Elaga- 
balus  also  built  the  gigantic  Temple 
of  the  Sun  on  the  Quirinal,  whose 
massive  ruins  are  still  visible  in  the 
gardens  of  the  Colonna  Palace.  Au- 
relian  (a.  it.  270)  accomplished  the 
greatest  work  of  the  latter  half  of  the 
empire,  by  surrounding  Rome  with 
the  immense  fortification  which  served 
as  the  foundation  of  the  present  walls. 
With  the  exception  of  the  Baths  of 
Diocletian  (a.  d.  S02),  wliich  have 
peculiar  interest  from  the  tradition 
that  they  were  built  by  the  Christians 
during  the  persecutions  of  this  reign, 
there  are  few  ruins  to  detain  us  until 
the  time  of  Constantine  (a.d.  306). 
The  baths  of  this  emperor  may  still 
be  traced  on  the  Quirinal  in  the  Villa 
AldobrandinL  His  Arch,  erected  in 
ini-mory  of  bis  victory  over  Maxentius, 
/y  nemr  tb9  ColiB9um,  and  is  adorned 
6f  >f/.  >fc 


with  bas*reliefs  plundered  from  the 
arch  of  Trajan,  whose  site  is  now 
unknown.  His  Basilica  constitutes 
one  of  the  most  conspicuous  ruins  of 
the  Forum :  it  was  built  by  Maxentius, 
and  consecrated  by  Constantine  afler 
the  death  of  his  rival.  To  the  same 
period  belong  the  temple  and  circus 
of  Romulus  on  the  Appian  Way, 
dedicated  by  Maxentius  to  the  me- 
mory of  his  son  Romulus  (a.  d.  311 ). 
The  circus  is  often  called  that  of  Ca- 
racalla. The  Pons  Gratianus,  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  Fabrician  .  bridge, 
constructed  by  the  emperors  Valen- 
tinian  and  Gratian  (a.d.  364),  still 
connects  the  island  of  the  Tiber  with 
the  Trastevere.  The  column  of  Phoca3 
was  erected  a.  r.  6C8  by  the  exarch 
Smaragdus  to  the  Greek  emperor 
Phocas ;  but  the  column  is  evidently 
of  an  earlier  date,  perhaps  as  early  as 
the  Antonines. 

This  rapid  review  of  the  leading 
ruins  will  be  useful  to  the  traveller  in 
enabling  him  to  understand  the  age  of 
the  different  monuments.  It  will  also 
be  useful  in  pointing  out  the  chrono- 
logical succession  to  such  travellers  as 
wish  to  study  the  history  of  Rome  by 
means  of  her  existing  ruins —  to  trace 
her  early  connection  with  Etruria — 
and  to  follow  the  progress  of  her 
architecture  through  its  various  stages 
down  to  the  decline  of  art  under  the 
later  emperors. 

It  will  scarcely  be  less  instructive 
to  take  a  rapid  survey  of  the  gradual 
ruin  of  the  city.  On  the  conversion 
of  Constantine  \o  Christianity  many 
of  the  ancient  temples  were  converted 
into  churches  for  Christian  worship, 
but  a  still  greater  number  were  de- 
stroyed.  Independently  of  the  in- 
juries sustained  through  the  invading 
armies  of  Alaric  (a.d.  410),  Genseriy 
(455).  Ricimer  (472),  Vitiges  (537), 
and  Totila  (546),  the  inhabitants  ap- 
pear to  have  regarded  the  ancient 
buildings  as  a  public  quarry.  Belt- 
sarins  employed  the  remains  of  ancient 
edifices  in  Tepoiiin^  ^^v^  ^i)S\%  K^x  \v>a 
celebrated  dc^enci^  cA  ^^  <i\N.^  %  ««^^  ^«^" 
verted  \Yie  \om\i  o^  ^^^twcw  *wX^  ^ 


ciUdel.  The  aquoducU  had  been  pre- 
vioutJ;  deilroyed  by  Vitigcs,  who 
huml  everything  beyond  the  walls ; 
the  baths  vere  thus  rendEied  useless, 
4n<l  the  Csmpagna  was  reduced  to  a 
*tate  of  desolation  from  n-hich  it  ha* 
neter  rccuvered.  Totila  is  supposed 
I   to  have  GOTninenced  the  deatrui 


tified  by  the  Corsi, 
Petef  hj  the  people. 
not  the  only  calBtnitxcs  of  Rome  dur- 
ing the  middle  ages.  In  laiS  tb* 
city  vas  again  inundated  by  the  Tibeft 
■nd  nothing  but  the  summits  of  the' 
hills  remained  uncovered.  In  1349 
desolated  by  a   fearful  eartlte 


I 


I  At  Poltice  of  the  Caesars.  In  the  |  quake.  In  1527  it  vas  cruelly  piU 
•eventh  and  eigbtli  centuries.  Rome,  lagcd  by  the  Constable  de  Bourbo^ 
KiStitd  ■  constant  succession  of  ea- '  and,  as  Gibbon  truly  observes,  suffered' 
lainiiies;  earthijualces,  inuudationt  of  more  hoia  him  than  from  the  ravage! 
tha  Tiber,  ind  the  famine  and  peati-  of  Genseric,  Vitiges,  and  Totila.  The, 
letica  of  which  they  were  the  natural  Constable,  according  to  the  report  at 
precursors,  desolated  the  city  more  the  Harquis  de  Bonaparte,  who  iru 
than  the  attacks  of  the  barb3.rians  or  au  eye-tritncfia,  opened  his  first  trendt 
the  subsequent  si^es  of  the  I.Dm-  Iwibre  the  fiice  of  the  Aureliun  wall^ 
bards.  From  the  end  of  the  seventh  adjoining  the  tomb  of  Csoilia  MeteUi 
to  the  end  of  the  eighth  century  live  Tlius,  fstBlly  pointed  in  the  direclio 
inundations  ate  recorded,  in  one  of  of  that  part  of  the  Apennioe  roai_ 
whicli  the  vhole  city  ffa.i  under  water  the  artillery  of  the  Constable  injured 
Ibl  several  days.  Tbe  disputed  sue-  ihetombofCieeiliaMetella;  destroyed 
cession  (0  the  papacy,  the  craitcsls  of  tbe  small  church  of  St  Facome,  the 
■he  popes  with  the  German  etnperon,  ruins  of  irhich  still  exist ;  injured  tli« 
and  the  frequent  absence  of  the  court,  great  circus  of  Romulus  ;  demoli^e^ 
]iad  uIki  considerable  influence  in  the  sepulchres  on  the  two  lines;  mu4 
leading  to  the  neglect  and  ruin  of  the  tilated  the  church  of  St.  Nereo  and 
city.  The  Normans  of  Robert  Guis-  St.  Achilleo,  the  tombs,  of  the  Scipio^ 
oard  surpassed  all  previous  invaders  in  and  the  baths  of  Antoninas.  Tbs 
^e  eitent  of  their  ravages :  they  burnt  desolation  caused  by  the  ConataUe' 
the  city  from  the  column  of  Antoni-  on  this  spot  may  be  stili  distinguished 
Has  to  the  Flumlninn  gale,  and  from  by  the  heaps  lit  ruins  which  mark  th«i 
the  Lateran  to  tbe  Capitol  f  they  site  of  the  moounuuits  he  destroyed., 
mined  the  Capitol  and  Coliseum,  and  In  ISSO,  the  city  was  visited  by. 
laid  waste  the  whole  of  the  Esquilinc.  another  inundation  scarcely  less  aevertt 
Thegreatmonumenlsweresoonafter.  in  its  results.  From  a  very  early 
wards  occupied  as  fortresses  by  the  period  the  erection  of  new  churdiea 
Boman  ftnlilies.  The  ColiKum,  tbe  and  the  repairs  of  the  city  walls  bad 
Septiconium,  and  the  Arch  of  Janus  eoniinually  operated  to  the  destruclioft 
vere  seiied  by  the  Fraiigipani ;  the  of  the  monuments  i  Ilic  lime-kilns  * 
Tomb  of  Hadrian,  and  the  Theatre  of  the  middle  ages  were  supplied  &c 
PoBipey,  by  the  Orsini ;  the  Mauso-  the  anoienl  ruins,  and  tlic  temples^ 
leam  of  Augustus  and  the  Baths  of  and  other  buildings  were  despi^led 
Coilstantine.  by  the  Colonna  i  the  of  their  columns  for  tlie  decorations 
Tomb  a(  Cscilia  Metclln  was  con-  of  religious  edifices.  The  popes  ar^ 
Terted  into  a  fortress  by  the  Satelli  I  responsible  for  a  large  share  of  this 
and  the  Gaetani ;  the  ruins  of  the  system  of  destruction.  As  early  es 
Capitol  were  held  by  the  Corsi ;  the  the  eighth  century  we  find  Gregory 
Quirinci  by  the  Conti ;  and  Ihc  Fan-  III.  taking  nine  columns  from  som 
tiieou  so  frequently  received  the  garri-  temple  for  the  basilica  of  St.  Pelei 
sons  of  the  Pope,  that  in  the  time  of  Adrian  I.  destroyed  the  Temple  c 
Gregory  YII.  it  was  called  S.  Maria  I  Ceres  and    Proserpine    to   build    8^ 


tarriiiis.      Even  the  Basilicas  weio\Maiia  \o  Coimea:™.    ?»i\  U.  built 
;   tliai  of  Si.  Paul  was  I6i-\tl>a  Talace  ot  S^,  TAiaWiSa 


Papal  Staiea.']  r.  27.— Rome." — Antiquities  ;  their  Ruin.    315 


taken  from  the  Coliseum.  By  the 
middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  so 
many  monuments  had  been  ruined  for 
building  purposes  or  burnt  into  lime, 
that,  when  JEneas  Sylvius  was  elected 
pope  under  the  title  of  Pius  II.,  he 
issued  a  bull  to  prevent  the  further 
continuance  of  the  practice :  **  De 
Antiquis  JEdificiis  non  diruendis" 
(1462).  Notwithstanding  this  mea- 
sure, Sixtus  IV.  in  1474  destroyed 
what  remained  of  the  Sublician  bridge 
to  make  cannon-balls,  and  swept 
away  numerous  ruins  in  his  general 
reform  of  the  city.  Alexander  VI. 
destroyed  a  pyramid  near  the  Vatican 
to  make  a  gallery  firom  the  Palace  to 
the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo.  Paul  III. 
(Famese)  plundered  the  temple  of 
Antoninus  and  Faustina,  the  Arch  of 
Titus,  the  Forum  of  Trajan,  and  the 
Theatre  of  Marcellus,  and  built  the 
Farnese  Palace  with  stones  brought 
firom  the  Coliseum,  although  he  had 
issued  a  bull  making  it  a  capital 
oflFence  to  "  grind  down "  statues. 
Sixtus  V.  removed  the  Septizonium 
of  Severus  for  the  works  of  St.  Peter*s. 
Urban  VIII.  (Barberini).  partly  de- 
stroyed the  basement  of  the  Tomb  of 
Ccecilia  Metella  to  construct  the 
Fountain  of  Trevi,  built  the  Barbe- 
rini Palace  with  materials  taken  from 
the  Coliseum,  and  stripped  the  Pan- 
theon of  the  bronze  plates,  which  had 
escaped  the  plunder  of  the  emperor 
Constans  II.  in  the  seventh  century, 
to  construct  the  baldacchino  of  St. 
Peter's  —  an  act  immortalised  by 
Pasquin  in  a  saying  which  has  now 
almost  become  a  proverb  : 

**  Quod  non  fecerunt  Barbari,  fccere  Bar- 
berini." 

Paul  V.  (Borghcse)  took  down  an 
entablature  and  pediment  in  the 
Forum  of  Nerva  to  build  a  fountain 
on  the  Janiculum,  and  removed  the 
last  of  the  marble  columns  of  the  Ba- 
silica of  Constantino  to  support  the 
statue  of  the  Virgin  in  the  Piazza  of 
S.  Maria  Maggtore.  Alexander  VII. 
destroyed  an  ancient  arch  to  widen  the 
Corso.  Most  of  the  statues  of  saints 
and  propbeta  in  the  churches  were 


worked  out  of  ancient  columns,  and 
the.  marbles  which  so  profusely  deco- 
rate the  altars  may  easily  be  recognised 
as  fragments  of  classical  buildings. 

After  these  details,  the  reader  will 
no  doubt  be  surprised  that  so  many 
relics  of  a  city  which  has  existed  for 
2600  years  are  still  visible.  When  we 
look  back  on  the  condition  of  the 
great  capitals  of  our  own  time,  how 
few  there  are  which  have  preserved 
unchanged  even  their  monuments  of 
the  middle  ages  I  If  Rome  had  under- 
gone as  many  alterations  as  London 
has  witnessed  within  the  lapse  of  a 
few  centuries,  we  should  not  find  one 
stone  standing  upon  another  which  we 
could  identify  with  her  historic  times. 

After  this  general  sketch  of  the  mo- 
numents and  their  vicissitudes,  we 
shall  proceed  to  describe  them  indi- 
vidually, classifying  the  ruins  under 
separate  heads,  and  leaving  it  to  the 
convenience  or  taste  of  the  traveller 
to  combine  the  antiquities  with  the 
churches  and  other  objects  of  interest, 
or  examine  each  class  separately.  It 
cannot,  however,  be  too  strongly  im- 
pressed upon  his  attention  that  there 
is  scarcely  a  ruin  which  has  not  been 
the  subject  of  antiquarian  controversy ; 
and  that  to  enter  into  these  disputes 
would  simply  be  to  add  another  to  the 
hundre<l  works  which  bewilder  the 
student  upon  almost  every  question  of 
Roman  topography.  In  many  in- 
stances the  doubt  which  hangs  over 
the  name  and  object  of  the  monuments 
will  never  be  removed,  and  the  dis- 
covery of  the  real  name  would  add 
but  little  to  the  interest  of  the  ruin. 
For,  in  spite  of  all  that  has  been 
written,  the  enjoyment  of  the  spec- 
tator must  depend  on  his  own  enthu- 
siasm ;  the  ruins  are  but  the  outlines 
of  a  picture  which  the  imagination 
and  memory  must  fill  up  :  and  those 
who  do  not  expect  too  much  are  less 
likely  to  be  disappointed  than  those 
who  look  for  visible  memorials  of  the 
heroes,  poets,  and  orators  whose  fame 
has  consecrated  the  «iov\,  vcv^  \wn<&<^\&^ 
even  tV\e  nam^  oi  "^xcvt  VvOcv  vkv- 
penshabVe  \titeT«&t. 

T  1 


3IG     H-27.  —  noiiE. — Antiquities:  Pomaa  fontm.      [Sect.L 

■■Wti«eU  the  net  or Triamph.  the  high  on  roMniTenialqumionsMidproeMd 
nWllomcflnIn>«dIi«hc((>«?  wlierr  "«  °°™  '"  »>«  *«*«-  Tt"  "I''"  •»- 
tlwiiRIi  ,  liiiitariet   bcltered    that   the    Fonnii, 

?!!SSi,"i:?."£S  JrsiTS., '  E'°i"<i "  »>w-  "■■"?-'  ™  I"*' 

Cund  iH  uibiUaD.    Dot  the  cDiKjucian    'nim  the  Arch  of  SeplimiDi  Semm*  la 
''^1' ,,   ^      „  ,.  .  ,  ,  , ,    tint    of   Fitrius  nnir  iI«troj«l,   bvt 

A  thm^ud  T»ri   oC   tilencnt    Ik^Loni   of  Anloninui  and  Faustina.  Thet 

t'S^Z....   _v.~  >h.  I    _  -  1  „  —.     between    this   lemple  and    the    I 

glow,  .  mlUTnas  which  formi  bo  conspin 

AM  Hill  llie  rtDoueBl  t\i  hrvnthe*— buna    a  feature  of  the  weiw  eonitilutc4  Itt 

.iih€,k«>.:'  a,>dim,M.    ji,^j,|,,    in  the  middle  of  the  « 

■  J,  Ivcnth   ccnturf  thii  opinion-  wa*  ao- 

■  roKtiMs.  penfded  hy  another  tlicory.  which  W- 

^B     Ttu  Romaic  Fomii A  unalt  irrc-    sumcd  u  (he  breadth  of  tlic   Ponnn 

■(pilar  space  between    Ilic   Capiloline  I  the   line   formertjr  believed  to   bC  iti' 
Kind  the  ralatine.  raited  hy  the  accu-  '  length,  and  might  fur  in  leogth  in 

mnlation  of  toil  fmm  liflecn  to  twcnl)'  j  llie  direction  of  (he  churches  of  &Q 
feet  above  the  ancient  level.  ItsJTeodoro  and  S.  Maria  dells  Conw- 
modem  name  is  the  Campo  Vaccina.  Iiuione,  thua  lajtng  down  an  im  _~ 
the  greater  pari  of  the  area  having ,  nary  rectangle  of  aboat  TOO  feet  bj 
berome  u  earljaiHhe  fifleenih  cen- !  470.  Tliii  theory  ia  supported  hj 
tury  (he  reaort  of  cattle  and  oien,  a  many  recent  wriion,  —  Nibhy,  F 
ttiiid  of  Roman  SmilhfielJ.  Widiin  giss,  Burton,  and  olhen.  —  in  wl 
this  hollow  lay  the  Roman  Forum,  lime  the  diwoveriei  wliieh  hate  _ 
but  what  pRr(  it  rcnily  occupied,  and  ,  completely  changed  tlie  old  land- 
what  were  its  true  boundaiiei,  are  marki  of  the  Forum  had  not  becu 
nme  matlera  of  coojeclure.  For  the  '  made.  Niebuhr  rejected  (his  hyp». 
lint  three  centuries  it  has  lieen  the  ihe»(  allot;ether.  uvd  adopted  the  oU 
■etne  of  more  learned  controversies '  theory  as  (he  ore  roost  supported  by 
Itian  any  other  spot  on  (he  hahitable  hiitottcal  Cieta.  The  Chetoliet  Ba»- 
globe,  and  s  simple  rtcapiluUtion  of  len  has  since  most  ably  carried 
the  theories  of  successive  aiiliqusries  the  views  of  the  Rteat  historian  j 
would  lill  ■  volume  of  no  ordinary  has  been  enabled  by  the  diseoreiy  of 
tiie.  In  the  detelopment  of  time  .the  Milliariunt  Aureum, and  flic  ttcpi 
theoiies  the  Forum  bn.s  changed  its  of  the  Basilica  Julia,  in  183-1,  to  r*- 
place  aenral   times ;   the    names   up-  '  concUe  Miebuht*!  views  witli  the  ae- 

been  superseded  by  the  neit.  and.  The  Forum,  therebrc,  accordlnf  lo 
until  widiin  the  last  few  yean  it  was .  these  authorities,  must  be  sought  tat 
«  iBsk  nf  no  common  difficulty  to  come  between  the  Capitol  and  Ibe  Arch  t£ 
U  auy  condusion  whBlsDevcT  amidst  |  Titus.  I(  was  about  6TD  EngtMi  loet 
tbemaltitudeofeonflictingstatements.  in  length;  the  breadth  varied  fhiiD 
Indeed,  the  disputes  of  the  anliqua-  107  to  I  IT  fvet,  the  end  DMresi  ' 
Tsa  had  involved  every  min  in  un-  Capitol  being  tlie  broadest.  Al 
certainty,  and  bad  cither  bewildered  eastern  and  narrowest  citremity.aUmt 
the  >luden(  into  total  scepdcism,  or  a  third  of  the  space  was  separated 
made  biro  believe  (bat  the  sole  interest  ^  IVom  the  refi  by  a  branch  of  the  \'ia 
of  each  object  of  antiquity  connsted  in  Sncrs.  This  small  portion  eonalilut«d 
the  contest  for  ilt  name.  Recent  (he  Comiiium,  which  Niebuhr  consi- 
ditcoTcrles  liave  removed  to  a  very  den  not  to  have  been  a  building  btil 
great  etitnt  tba  doubts  which  pei- '  an  uncovered  area,  distinct  tron  >fa(^_ 
pitxrj  Ibe  irriien  of  firmer  tim«-,  Yorum  io  \ta  ^tov='  ■**  ratriwrf 
ttV«A«y/ fberefare  touch  very  (light\}    sense.    'I\iiri>niniiii>n.\w«»»M{- 


/'opal  State*. 2  ii.2T. — UOMK, — Antiquities;  Jioman  For 


»||^i«  audcd  ncu  (lio  Ibicc  column*  in 
BSDl  of  K.  Miria  LilMmlriM;  *ndtli* 
.jCptnitiuin  inual  liava  cndrd  iimiIji 
Mpotilc  lh«  Tnnple  of  Anlonitiu*. 
Jl  tau.\>\<:  ivcnuv  of  dm  trca  on  Qic 
SffrUi-nM  side  oF  Ihe  Foium  Uttmvt\j  ' 
MTOcd  M  a  Kuiding  line  in  fiii<ig  ib>  | 
locsliiin,  *nd  wu  n|i«cia1l]r  intnk-M-  i 
iiig  ai  marking  tlic  courw  of  Ihc  Via  . 
Sacta  i  liut  duriDg  tbe  rvf  oluliooarj 
troubtn  of  \B.A9,  the'Itonun  Aiwnt- 1 
blj  oidstnl  tlwm  to  be  cut  dovn  for 
the  purpoit  of  coroplrlclj  ricaiating  ' 
Ibc  ground  down  lu  it*  ■iiciml  tctcL  , 
Tliil  i^n  (twee,  in  wliicli  wu  lia*c 
no*  to  trace  Iha  tiriuiii  liiiilding*  of 
tbv  aDcicnl  Foriim,  a  bounded  al  Ihc 
wctlvra  vnd  \ty  the  Capilol.  *ur- 
rnounled  bjr  tliu  laudirm  Toircr  of  the 
Soialot.  and  nt  llw  cailcm  1i}  Itic 
Artb  of  Titu*.  Un  the  iij|l>i  U  ihc 
l^ilUlo*  covered-  wifli  gantcoi  and  a  | 
convent  Mauling  alone  unidil  Ibe 
(uin>  of  th«  ralue  of  llie  (.J«un,  and  , 
on  llw  Ivft  ■•  a  line  of  houiei  and  j 
ehuicbca  chieflj  huill  upon  anciicnt  | 
laotplca.      'Ills  Liuua  Curliui  »  >u|i- , 


doni  conftructionn,  in  wbieh  Nid 
laiV.,  about  Ihe  middlcufllieHltceulh 
Evnliirj.  (urmed  ■  magaiine  of  mII. 
irhieb  if  taid  to  have  corTodcd  lb* 
and  led  to  llwii  dcMiucllon.    In 

ion  ciiitcd  on  tiiewalla.  proving 
thai  Ihvjr  belong  to  the  Tabulariuoii 
where  the  "labulv,'*  or  plata  record- 
ing tlic  decrees  of  t1>e  senate  aad 
other  public  acti,  wrrc  picMxed.  and 
that  ihey  irer*  ctceted,  toother  with 
the  tubitruclioni,  hf  Q.  LutaUU*  Ca- 
tuliu  (a.  r.    Ill);    <|.  Ln*Tit*  .  u,  r. 


tbia  (pave.  Without  ciilering  inlo 
miaul*  detaila  of  tbc  ciliflcn  »hicb 
oun  adurat-d  the  Korum,  «e  >hall  pto- 
m-d  tu  pwiit  out  tiK  localitie*,  w  far 
n  ibef  liare  Iwen  decided  by  tbc  nwal 
leetnl  aullioriliev 

Ii«;|i)wiiiig  villi  the  ruiix  an  tlic 
vloiMt  of  tlitf  Capil^jlinc^  tlie  inaaaive 
*ail  of  pcpeiino  wlileb  tbcmt  the  luli- 
■truclUin  of  il>e  madem  piluni  ia  one 
uf  tbc  lOiial  lotcremting  ciiattng  frag- 

uf  ibe  republic.  It  !•  U40  feet  in  . 
length  and  37  Itwl  In  bcigbl  i  it  la  ^ 
ciiuipOHd  uf  rectangular  blocki  laid  in 
•Itcmalu  cuunca.  piewntiug  In  one 
•idn.  anil  in  the  oihvr 
cnda,  prcciHly  in  the  M^le  ubich 
~  derived  from  the  KtruHana. 
it,  aa  upmt  a  poilkum,  are  the 
loflvrelTv  IXhic  lialf  eolutniH, 
■lUi  aiebei  hclveen  ihen)  aupporling 
•a  arebtlraiv  Iwluiiftlng  to  llie  Taini- 1 
'^liwBOT  Hecool   OIGca.      WiU.in  ia 


m 


a«,m;  they 

a*  republican  wocka.  aud  (till  mora  w 
aa  lemaim  of  Ibe  ancient  CapitaL  In 
January,  I(IJ9,  Signor  Anuni.  tb« 
profrsiar  of  arcliilcclure  in  tli«  Aea- 
dciuy  of  Si.  Luke,  made  an  itnporuni 
diKovery  iu  cooneilau  *irh  tbia  In- 
lerrning  iniinumcnL  Wliile  mgagcd 
in  the  wutlit  fur  I)hi  enlaigcincnt  of 
lb*  priwuB  beneath  tlie  Senator*!  IW 
laee,  be  luund  concealed  among  mauM 
of  madcrn  walk  llw  Dock  anb  af 
IheTabukrium,  tbeeuitencv  of  wh!«b 
liad  ueter  b*«n  Lelbr*  imagined.  It 
ia  3U  palma  9  iiicbea  high,  and  aboul 
15  paluia  10  ioclm  broad.  Tin  *tj>« 
of  ila  Doric  i*  a  rare  iiatnp)*  of  lb* 
imilBllon  of  Greek  art  in  th*  worlu 
of  the  republic,  and  prewtila  inanv 
peculUillie*  in  Ita  ddaili  which  «in 
not  fail  lo  iutemt  the  arcbllatt.  It 
ii  to  he  hoped  that  I'rufnaor  Aooni 
will  be  able  la  follow  out  bii  nwowbtfc 
for  tlieie  ia  no  doubt  tliat  fitfthn  Ifc 
Teatigotion*  anong  llw  liiundMiaaa  of 
lb*  Senator*!  falaca  will  be  pTodlW 
tire  uf  blghlv  inleraalinl  retulla.  Tlio 
peculiar  taiieljr  of  volcanic  tub  of 
which  thtt  arch  and  th*  ubktrvctlona 
uf  tlie  Tahuluiun  aia  b.Ult  \»  that 
called  lu/Wi  (.>Waei,  fnna  Uie  loe^l* 
uo  the  ihorei  of  ibe  Lake  of  GAtk 
'  from  which  il  it  derived.  Ilia  HeVM 
ia  dilfcTTiil  frmn  llw  peperlno  of  Al- 
bano,  of  which  w<  lia>a  a  Hna  ctaipfla 
in  the  loml>  o(  Suivrto.    "^^w  ^^a«».Na 


F 

■  Ma 

■  uk 


8    It.  2T- — liOBB.- — Antvjuities s  Reman  Forum,    f Sect,  f. 


_ la™  been  genprally  em-  the  norlhem  flank  of   the  arch  and 

plujed  in  all  Ih?  early  public  woitsoS  proceeded  in  the  direotian  o!  the  mo- 

Baine,irbilelhe)KpcrinoorthcAlbaD  derii  road.       The    Ciicui    CapitoKiau 

UUa  did  not  come  into  1190  until  a  passed  under  tbe  arch,  and  led  up  to 

later  period.  \  the  citadel  in  a  winding  direction  be- 

Tlie  three  temples  which  stand  at  tween  the  tfareecolumni  and  the  Tem- 

Aa  boM  at  the  hill  are  among  the  pie  of  Vespasian.     The  excavations  of 

DMOt   conapieuous  ornaments  of  Itie  Pins  VII.  in  IStM.by  laj'iiigopen  the 

Fonim.     The  three  fluted  volumns  in  arch  to  its  base,  tliscoTered  the  remains 

Um  Corinthian  style  were  long  sup-  of  this  road,  and  wo   may  thETerore 

poud  10  ha*e  tbcmed  the  angle  of  the  nov  tread  the  ancient  pavement.    The 

Teropla  of  Jupiter   Toiians;   Canina  Clivus  Asyli   puised   in   front  of  the 

■lurts  that  lliey  belong  la  the  Ttmple  ,  Mamrriint  prian,  one  of  the  few  ei, 

LVapaiian,    while  Niebuhr    consi-  1  isting  monumenta  of  (he  kings,  now 
<A  them  to  belong  to  the  TtmiJiof  mnrked  h;  the  church  called  iodiS^ 

ftatera,  an  opinion  since  conGrmed  hy  enlly  S.  Pietro  id  Carcerc  or  S.  Giu- 

Ibe  discovery  of  the  Milliarium  Am-  seppe.    Proceeding  now  along  the  left 

raaa,orgoldeumUesloneof  Augustus,  aids  of  the    Forum,   the  line  of  the 

M  its  base.      This  stone  stood,  as  we  modern  road  Is  supposed  to  mark  tiie 

know  from  numerous  clnasical  aulho-  position  of  the  Tiota  tabrma,  the  por- 
lities,  immediately  below  (he  Temple   ticoes  and  shops  of  tbe  traders.      The 

oT  Saturn  ;  it  is  a  circular  pillar  on  a  Church  of  S.  Ltica,  or  Sania  Martina, 

circular  basement,  bced  with  marble,  the  well-known  site  of  the   Roman 

and  was  created  by  Augustus  to  mark  Academy  of  FainterB,  is  supposed  to 

tbe  distances  from  Rome  to  the  great  be  built  on  an  ancient  edifice,  sorat 
eitieaoftheempire;  bylhediscoveryof  writers  contending  thsC  it  marks  the 

this  relic  the  Prussian  antiquaries  have  position  of  Ibe   Secnlaritm    Senalut, 

given  us  a  new  and  most  ImportaDt  { while  others  consider,  Ironi  its  early 


nime,  that  it  was  the  Ttmple  of  Mart. 

Fonim.      The  portico,  with  the  eight 

The  adjoining  church  of  S.  Adrians 

granite  columns  on  the  left  hand,  was 

is  supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  the 

fiinnerly  called  the  Templeof  Fortune, 

Baiilka  ^•niliii,  erected  in  the  time 

of   Augustus    by    Paulus    fmilius; 

^he  Ttmiie  «f  yapasiam   but  Canina, 

Nardini,   however,  identified  it  with 

the  most  recent  Roman  authority,  con- 

the  Temple  of  Hadrian,  and  before 

tidera  that  it  is  the  Temple  of  Satur.. 

identil^ing.  as  we  have  already  said, 

of  the  Temple  of  the  Parcie.       The 

the  Temple  of   Vespasian   with    (he 

brick  frBnt  is  the  only  fragment  of  the 

three  columns  just  described.     In  the 

aocient  building  now  standing.      ITia 

angle  on  the  right,  behind  the  three 

mass  of  modern  houses  between  this 

columns,  and  partly  covered  by  the 

church  and  the  Temple  of  Antoninus 

modern  ascent  and  by  fragments  of 

mublea,  is  a  massiie  basement  exca- 

writers  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Ba- 

Lvatett  by  the   French   in    1817,    and    li/ica  fifrio;  atila  eastern  end,befiire 

I   proved  by  inscriptions  then  found  to  ,  we  reach  the  Temple  of  .^ntoninns, 

belong    to    the    Temple   0/   Concard, ,  Bunsen    places    the    Ctiria    Hotlilia. 

erected  in  the  time  of  Augustus  on  ,  Nearly  opposite,  at  that  end  of  tbe  Co- 

the  ruins  of  the  oelebraled  lepublioan  ,  mitium  which  faced  the  Forum,  the 

temple  of  that  name.     In  front  of  this  ;  liBsIra,  according  to  the  same  autho. 

rtiia  stands  Ilie  Arck  of  S^Tnim  St-    rity,  stood  prior  to  the  lime  of  Julius 

WTW*    which    marks    the  north-west  l  Casar,    The  Temple  of  Aniaainva  aud 

raffle  of  tbe  Forum.     The  Clivia  An/li,  \  Famtina,  i«>-»  ttio  CnMieV,  o?  &,  Lo. 

one  or  the  patljs  s-hich  led  ftoKi  Ae    tenWJ  in  Wiiatiio,  ««.■)  ^lc  tumAei'd 


Pc^mI  States,'}  r.27. — home. — AnHquities ;  Raman  Forum.  319 


to  mark  the  limits  of  the  Forum.  In 
front  of  it  stood  the  Arch  ofFabius,  the 
conqueror  of  the  Allobroges. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  Forum, 
beginning  from  the  Portico  of  Ves- 
pasian, we  may  first  notice  the  single 
column,  called  by  Lord  Byron 

*'  The  nameleM  column  with  a  buried  base  ;" 

it  was  excavated  to  the  base  in  181 S 
by  the  Duchess  of  Devonshire,  and  is 
now  no  longer  nameless,  for  an  in- 
scription was  found,  proving  it  to  be 
the  Contemn  of  Phocas,  and  recording 
that  a  gilt  statue  was  placed  on  it  to 
that  emperor  by  the  exarch  Smarag- 
dus,  A.D.  608.  Behind  it,  on  the 
right,  the  Prussian  antiquaries  place 
the  Basilica  Julia,  founded  by  Julius 
Caesar  on  the  site  of  the  Basilica  Sem- 
pronia,  after  the  Curia  Hostilia  was 
destroyed  by  fire  (a.  c.  55).  The 
flight  of  steps,  discovered  in  1 834,  on 
the  right  of  the  Column  of  Phocas, 
served  to  fix  the  site  of  this  Basilica, 
and  gave  a  new  impulse  to  the  settle- 
ment of  the  topography.  The  Rostra 
were  removed  by  Caesar  to  the  front 
of  this  new  building.  The  space  be- 
tween this  and  the  three  columns  of 
the  Forum  is  supposed  by  Bunsen  to 
be  the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Castor  and 
Pollux,  The  three  beautiful  columns, 
which  architects  have  long  regarded 
as  models  of  the  Corinthian  style, 
have  been  the  subject  of  more  con- 
troversy than  any  other  ruins  in  the 
Forum.  In  former  times  they  were 
called  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Stator ; 
they  were  then  supposed  to  belong 
to  the  Comitium,  and  more  recently 
they  have  had  the  name  of  the  Grae- 
costasis,  or  hall  in  which  the  ambassa- 
dors of  friendly  powers  were  received 
by  the  senate.  Recent  excavations, 
however,  show  that  the  columns  be- 
longed to  a  building  of  great  extent, 
and  Bunsen  contends  that  they  are  the 
remains  of  the  Temple  of  Minerva 
Chalcidiea,  built  by  Augustus  in  con- 
nection with  the  Curia  Julia,  the  mag- 
nifteent  structure  erected  by  that  em-  j 
peror  for  the  senate,  in  place  of  the 
o/i/er  Curia,    The  mass  of  brick-work 


behind  the  church  of  S.  Maria  Libera- 
trice,  formerly  ascribed  to  the  Curia 
Hostilia,  is  considered  by  the  same 
learned  antiquary  to  be  the  remains  of 
this  new  Curia  of  Augustus.  Farther 
back  the  church  of  San  Teodoro  is 
supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  the 
Temple  of  Romulus,  described  as  the 
Temple  of  Vesta  by  those  antiquaries 
who  assumed  its  site  as  one  of  the 
boundaries  of  the  Forum ;  but  the 
site  of  the  Temple  of  Vesta  is  placed 
by  Bunsen  immediately  in  front  of 
Santa  Maria  Liberatrice.  Along  the 
line  from  the  Portico  of  Vespasian  to 
this  spot,  he  places  the  veteres  taherncB, 
or  shops  which  Tarquinius  Priscus 
allowed  to  be  erected  in  the  Forum, 
and  where  Virginius  bought  the 
knife  which  saved  the  honour  of  his 
daughter. 

We  are  now  arrived  opposite  the 
Temple  of  Antoninus  and  Faustina,  and 
may  therefore  be  said  to  have  reached 
the  boundary  of  the  Forum,  or  rather 
of  the  Comitium,  on  this  side.  It  may 
be  useful  now  to  examine  the  remain* 
der  of  the  Carapo  Vaccino,  lying  be- 
tween this  position  and  the  arch  of 
Titus.  Leaving  the  Temple  of  An- 
toninus, we  enter  on  the  Via  Sacra. 
On  the  left  hand  the  first  building 
which  requires  notice  is  the  small 
circular  temple  now  used  as  a  vestibule 
to  the  church  of  SS.  Cosimo  and  Da- 
miano ;  it  was  formerly  called  the 
Temple  of  Remus,  but  is  described  by 
Bunsen  as  the  JSdes  Penatium,  Near 
this  are  two  half-buried  columns  of 
cipollino,  ^thich  seem  to  have  escaped 
the  nomenclature  of  the  Roman  anti- 
quaries. The  next  building  Ls  the 
immense  ruin  formerly  called  the 
Temple  of  Peace,  but  now  known  to 
be  the  Basilica  begun  by  Maxentius, 
and  completed  by  Constant! ne,  whence 
it  took  the  name  of  the  Basilica  of 
Constantine.  The  Via  Sacra  is  sup- 
posed by  many  writers  to  have  passed 
immediately  in  front  of  this  edi6ce, 
while  others  carry  it  in  a  straight  line 
from  the  site  of  the  arch  oC  ¥^Viv>a&  Vi 
that  of  Titua,  TCifi  T«m^e  oj  P«.Mtt 
stood  new  it,     KiaoTv%  >>^e  SassX-s  ^wv- 


R.  27.^BOMK.  —  AntiguiHai  Trtf^'t  Forum,  [Sect.  Il 


f   tMclvd  witli  the  dcBtruction    nf  Ihiit 

I    cdcLraleil   Umple,   doI    llm  least  in- 

I    tcmtintt  ii  tlial  recorded  by  Hie  plijr- 

d^iu  G«len,  vim  Untei  that  he  liad  a 

I  Jhop  upon  the  Via  Sacra,  nUieli  wbj 

*       It  dawn  in  the  conHBgration  of  the 

,)le,  and  that  he  lost  aaaj  of  liit 

writiugi  in  the  flames.     The  ckuical 

•cholal  will  hudly  require  to  be  le- 

miniled  that  Ilie  Via  Sacra  was  o\ 

the  filVDurile  promcQades  of  Iloraae, 

who  has  leeurded  the  fact  in  oi 

hu  moit  playful  aatircs  (lib.  i.,  ii 


»'Gl<tie  to  the  Basilica  is  [he  AicK  of 
.TOa.,  interestLiig  not  only  as  the  moil 
beautiful  of  the  Koman  arches,  hut  as 
having  been  erected  in  commemora- 
tion  of  the  conquest  of  Jerusaletn. 
Behind  the  cburcli  of  8.  Francesca 
llomana  are  tlie  ruins  of  the  double 
3lnp&  of  VtHi,,  ami  llo,ne,  planned 
by  Hadrian,  and  built  under  hia  per- 
sonal superintendence.  The  Via,  ^una 
is  supposed  lo  haTu  passed  under  the 
Areh  of  Tilus  la  (he  MeIb  Sudani, 
ill  front  of  the  Coliseuui,  whow  gi- 
gantic  mass  rises  immediately  bclbre 
us,  between  the  Baths  of  Titus  on  one 
nde,  and  the  areh  of  Conatantine  on 
tlM  oUier. 

All  the  objeett  tnentionod  in  this 
geaeiat  survey  of  the  Furum,  of  which 
fliere  arc  any  remains  now  visible,  are 
described  in  detail  under  iheir  several 
clasaes,  to  vliich  the  reader  ii  there- 
Ibra  referred  fur  the  particulars  of  each. 

Furum  af  Tnijan The  remaiiis 

of  the  mognilicent  buildings  whicli 
were  unce  the  oruamenl  of  this  Forum, 
and  the  unrivollei' 


and  Pius  VII.  in  IBIS  caused  two 
convenU  and  several  houses  to  he  ei- 
cavated  in  order  to  clear  the  piescut 
area.  During  this  operation  Ihe  base- 
meuts  of  tliv  columns  were  discovered, 
90  that  Ihe  difierent  ftaementi  hate 
been  replaced  as  neatly  as  possible  in 
their  oiiginal  positions.  The  design, 
ED  far  as  can  be  gathered  from  the  ex- 
isting ruins  and  from  coins,  included 
the  Basilica  called  Ulpia,  from  one  of 

phal  aich,  aiid  a  temple.  The  frag- 
ments now  visible  are  a  portion  of  tlie 
colonnades  and  lateral  columns  of  the 
Ulpian  Basilica,  and  are  supposed  lo 
be  about  a  third  of  the  original  build- 
ings. The  rest  is  buried  under  the 
streets  and  bouses  vhich  close  upon 
the  area  on  all  ^des.  Svery  eicava- 
tion  made  lor  years  past  in  tbc  vicinity 

extent  of  the   Forum, 


Isibte 


I  the 


area  have  been  fui 
the  Piazia  dcgti  Apostoli.  The  fune- 
ral column  stood  in  the  middle  of  on 
oblong  area,  enotosed  on  two  sides  by 
a  double  colonnade,  and  on  the  third 
by  the  lateial  walls  of  Ihe  Basilica, 
which  was  divided  in  the  middle  by  a 
double  colonnade.  The  columns  ore 
oCgrey  Egyptian  granite;  their  origi- 


A  round  tl 


1    of   c 


stands  in  Ihe  n 


of  11 


the  best  evidences  of  the  splendour 
wliich  commanded  the  admiration  of 
the  ancient  world.  The  Forum  was 
begun  by  the  emperor  after  his  return 
from  the  wars  ou  tiie  Danube,  and 
tompleted  *.  d.  114.  The  architect 
iKn  /he  eeldiraUd  Apollodorus.  The 
j<edeslal  of  the  column  was  excavated  , 
by  PaulIII.  ia  til c  sixteenth  century  ;  ', 


itablatiires,    &i 

arble  pavement.  All  these  renuuBS 
indicate  a  bigh  state  of  art,  and  on 
elaborate  execution  even  in  tha 
smallest  details.  Bcstoted  plans  of 
[  the  Forum  and  its  buildings  will  be 
found  in  Burgess's  "  Rome,"  and  in 
the  "  Beschreibung."  The  Funeral 
Column  is  described  under  its  proper 
bead  at  page  316. 

Far<im  afNerva,  between  the  Roman 
Forum  and  that  of  Trojan,  begun  and 
dedicated  to  Patlai  by  Domltiao,  and 
Rnishedby  Nerva.  The  remains  of  this 
Forum  and  its  temples  are  described 
under  7<ni/i'ei.— [Sec  Temple  of  Pal- 
las ■M'lneiia  ttRi  Tevnijle  of  Nerva.] 

1/     A^giutut,    BiiajM-nJ.    la 


Ptqmi  States  J]    r.  27«  —  Rome.  —  Palace  oftlue  Ccesars.      321 


tboae  of  Trajan  and  Nerva.  The  ex- 
isting remains  are  noticed  under  the 
heads  referred  to  in  the  preceding 
article. 

Of  the  other  Forums  it  will  he  suf- 
ficient  merely  to  mention  that  the 
celebrated  Forum  ofjtdiua  Ceesar,  the 
second  constructed  in  Rome,  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  situated  between 
that  of  Augustus  and  the  Roman 
Forum.  All  trace  of  it  is  now  lost. 
It  contained  the  famous  Temple  of 
Venus  Genetrix,  adorned  with  the 
statues  of  the  goddess  and  Cleopatra. 
It  has  become  memorable  from  its 
connexion  with  the  first  offence  given 
to  the  citizens  by  Caesar,  who  receiyed 
the  conscript  fathers  sitting  in  front 
of  the  temple,  when  they  had  come  to 
him  in  great  state.  The  Forum  Boa- 
rium  was  situated  near  the  Church  of 
S.  Giorgio  in  Velabro,  and  conse- 
quently near  the  Bocca  della  Veritii. 
The  Forum  OUtorium  is  mentioned 
in  the  account  of  the  Temple  of  Juno 
Matuta.  The  Forum  of  Antoninus  is 
marked  by  the  ruins  of  his  temple, 
now  used  as  the  custom-house. 

Palaces. 

Palace  of  .the  Cccxars.  —  The  first 
palace  of  the  fmperors  on  the  Pala- 
tine was  erected  by  Augustus,  on  the 
site  of  tlie  houses  of  Cicero,  Horten- 
sius,  and  Claudius.  He  attached  to 
it  a  temple,  dedicated  to  Apollo,  in 
commemoration  of  the  battle  of  Ac- 
tium,  and  a  library,  which  afterwards 
became  famous  as  the  Palatine  Li- 
brary, Tiberius  increased  this  palace 
towards  that  extremity  of  the  hill 
which  overlooks  the  Velabrum.  Ca- 
ligula enlarged  it  towards  tlie  Forum, 
and  connected  it  with  the  Capitol  by 
a  bridge.  He  also  converted  the 
Temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux  in  the 
Forum  into  n  vestibule  for  the  new 
portions  he  had  added.  Nero  ex- 
tended the  buildings  in  the  opposite 
direction  towards  the  site  of  the  Co- 
liseum. After  the  great  fire,  the 
golden  house  which  Nero  erected  on 
the  ruins  of  hia  former  palace  ex- 
tcjjdcd  to  the   Esquiline,   displacing 


the  house  of  Maecenas,  filling  up  the 
valley  of  the  Coliseum,  and  covering 
with  its  grounds  a  great  portion  of 
the  Caelian.  Titus  was  the  first  who 
seems  to  have  reduced  this  overgrown 
edifice  within  more  reasonable  limits ; 
he  employed  the  substructions  on  the 
Esquiline  as  the  foundations  of  his 
Baths,  and  is  supposed  to  have  made 
such  alterations  as  confined  the  palace 
to  its  original  position  on  the  Palatine. 
It  was  repeatedly  rebuilt  and  altered 
by  succeeding  emperors;  and  the 
greater  part  of  it  is  supposed  to  have 
fiillen  into  decay  in  the  time  of  Theo- 
doric.  In  the  seventh  century  the 
southern  poi  tion  was  sufificiently  per- 
fect to  be  inhabited  by  Heraclius;. 
and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the 
plan  at  least  of  the  palace  was  entire 
in  the  eighth  century.  Of  all  these 
extensive  buildings,  nothing  now  re- 
mains but  a  mass  of  ruins,  so  shape- 
less and  undefined,  that  any  attempt 
to  discover  the  plans  and  boundaries 
of  the  several  parts  would  be  perfectly 
hopeless. 

"  Cypress  and    ivy,   weed  and   wallflower 

grown 
Matted    and    mass'd    together,    hillocks 

heap*d 
On  what  were  chambers,   arch   crush 'd, 

columns  strown 
In    fragments,    choked-up    vaults,    and 

ft-escoes  steqt'd 
In  subterranean  damps,   where  the  owl 

I>eep'd,  • 

Deeming  it  midnight :— Temples,  baths, 

or  halls  ? 
Pronounce  who  can ;  for  all  that  Learning 

reap'd 
From  her  research  liath  been,  that  these 

are  walls.— 
Behold  the  Imi>erial  Mount!  'tis  thus  the 

mighty  falls."  C/iiide  Harold. 

The  Palatine,  as  we  now  sec  it,  is 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit;  the 
soil  is  composed  of  crumbled  fragments 
of  masonry,  and  in  many  parts  it  co- 
vers the  original  surface  to  a  depth 
of  nearly   twenty   feet.     The  hill  is 
portioned  out  in  gardens  and   vine- 
yards :   the  grounds  of  the  Villa  Far- 
I  nese  occupy  the  whole  north-western 
I  side.      Adjoining  them,  on  the  south, 
I  and  standing  ucaT\>j  Vcv  ^\si  t«v\\x^  ^\ 
I  the  hiW,  \a  iVie  ViUa  Spada  ox  V«\«!Cvcv<».^ 
I  better  kuo^jm  a&  1\\^  VWla  MV\U,  ^xoxc. 

T  5 


V    the  : 


R.  27.  —  noMS;  —  Palaeeoftka  Cmart,       fSect,  t. 


property  belongs,  A 
tOH)  conuneDcing  at  [he  Arcliofnius, 
and  called  the    Tr'a   Polcerlera,  leads 


the  abatc-named  vUlii  fran 
;i»  of  the  cDovent,  and  Iron 
ngna   di    S.   S^ 


drii  Rimeionti  and  at  (he  wiuth-west 
ralTCmit^  U  the  Vigna  del  CaUtgia 
Imgiite.  1q  each  of  these  locatitiea 
we  shall  find  same  ruins  to  engage 
OUT  atteatioii.  1.  FaTuai  Gardau, 
AiMiidiag  the  Via  PoWeriera  from 
tbe  Arch  of  Tilus,  we  lirsl  pass  some 
■nthea  and  other  riagmentn,  which 
tnua  thnr  poiltion  have  been  iderw 
Hficd  with  th<  veatibule  of  Nero's 
bouic  Nol  &r  distant  is  the  entrance 
to  the  Fameac  Gardens  by  a  gateway 
□n  the  right  hand.  Ilie  first  objects 
which  occur  arc  remains  of  wnlU  snd 
faults;  and  higher  up,  beneath  a 
^Tove  at  ilei,  on  the  spot  where  (he 
Arcadian  Academy  formerly  held  its 
meetings,  are  njmeruus  fmgtnents  of 
entablatures,  cornices,  and  capitals, 
with  trophies  apparently  inilicatire  of 
■  IMTal  triunuph ;  these  ftagments 
hava  been  collected  from  diSbrent 
parts  of  the  ground,  and  are  supposed 
to  hare  belonged  to  the  temple  treotcd 
by  Augustus  to  Apollo.  On  the 
westnrr  angle  of  the  hill  above  the 
eburcb  of   Stn.    Anastasia   are    some 

those  of  the  palace  ndded  by  llbcrius; 
on  the  south  is  a  semicircular  ruin, 
apparently  of  b  nnoll  theatre,  which 
some  writers  have  attributed  to  Culi- 
gula.  On  the  higher  part  of  the  hill 
•re  the  vaults  colled  by  the  ciceroni 
the  "  Baths  of  Livitt."  They  retain 
their  original  stucco,  and  are  still 
decorated  with  somo  besutiful  ata- 
beajucs  and  gilding.  They  bare  a 
ulace  for  beating  water,  and  a  passage 
vapour  is  lef^  hettveen  the  wall  ocd 


the  lacing.     Near  t 
able  remains  of  substructions,  which 
Kie    generally    supposed    to    bo    the 

-■-[  of  Ibe    Temjjle  of    Apollo;Ulie  mWBie   mA  \)'J   *»« 

'   compartmcnta  stlrt\  ttem'ivj:  WioSCifv- '''"«'"'■ 


traceable  in  tiie  nails  adjoining  hava 
been  considered  with  great  prubatn- 
lity  to  nurk  the"  site  of  the  Palatine 
library.  A  villa  at  this  eitceniitjr  of 
the  hill,  stud  to  have  been  painted  by 
the  pupils  of  Raphael,  comnuuids  one 
of  the  finest  views  of  Home.  At  the 
endoftbe  Palatine  lacing  the  Capital 
are  large  masses  of  brick- work, 
formerly  supposed  to  have  been  con- 
necied  with  retervoirs,  but  their  tniB 

jectiire  \  they  are  now  eonrerted  into 
a  rope-walk.  2,  The  Vitia 
tbrmeily  the  Villa  Spado, 
the  residence  of  Mr.  Mills,  acquired 
considerable  interest  ftom  the  disco- 
veries of  the  French  Abbf  Hancoureil 
in  1T7T,  who  concluded  that  it  occu- 
pied the  site  of  the  house  of  Augustus. 
The  villa  is  entered  from  the  Via 
Polvericra,  nearly  opposite  the  odq- 
vent  of  S.  Bonsventurs.  The  sub- 
terranean chambers  excavated  by 
Raneonreit  and  Barberi  are  several 
feet  below  the  present  surface;  they 
were  formerly  callcit  the  "  Baths  of 
Nero,"  and  have  been  latterly  de- 
scribed as  the  actacala  of  the  palace 
□f  Augustus;  but  these  are  mere 
names  for  which  there  is  not  a  shadow 
of  authority.  In  several  of  these 
chambers  the  stucco  is  preserved  i  and 
from  what  remains  they  all  a)ipear  to 
have  been  richly  ornamented.  Two 
of  the  rooms  ore  octagons,  with  domes 
admitting  light  by  the  top.  The 
forms  and  architecture  of  these  cham- 
bers have  been  justly  admired  by  pro- 
fessional travellen.      The  inscription 

aneient  column,  was  added  by  the 
Abb£  Rancourell.  The  CaHno  of 
the  Villa  has  a  portico  painted  by 
Ciulio  Romano,  and  lately  restored  by 


The 


of  the  most  sirilting 
prospects  on  this  side  of  Rome.  9. 
Orti  Soncioni:  the  Villa  PaUttua 
overlooks  these  gardens.  ITicy  are 
enclosed  by  two  parellel  walls  of  great 
hich  appear  by  the  recess  in 


■I>l"\\-Vj.. 


Piynd  3iaiesJ2    b.  27« — ROMr. — Canstantine's  Basilica. 


323 


podrome,**  given  to  the  locality  by 
the  antiquaries.  In  the  upper 
gardens  b  the  semicircuhir  ruin  of  a 
theatre  already  mentioned.  4.  Figna 
di  S.  Bonaveniura,  &c.  Returning 
to  the  Via  Gregorio,  on  our  way  to 
examine  the  south  side  of  the  bill,  we 
pass  the  vineyards  of  S.  Bonaventura 
and  S.  Sebastiano,  in  both  of  which 
are  considerable  masses  of  brick-work,  I 
which  evidmtly  belonged  to  the  house 
of  Nero.  In  the  latter  are  some 
remains  of  the  conduits  which  sup- 
plied the  palace  with  water  from  the 
Claudian  aqueduct,  and  within  the 
precincts  of  the  convent  are  some 
remains  which  appear  to  have  been 
the  reservoirs  of  a  bath.  5*  Vijfna 
dd  CoUegio  Ingleaej  approached  on  the 
side  of  the  Circus  Mazimus,  through 
a  private  house  on  the  Via  de*  Cercbi ; 
a  steep  and  dirty  staircase  conducts 
us  to  the  ruins,  which  are  more  ex- 
tensive and  picturesque  than  any  now 
visible  on  tiie  Palatine.  Numerous 
arches,  corridors,  and  vaults  still  re- 
taining their  ancient  stucco  are  in- 
terspersed with  masses  of  buildings 
of  different  periods,  among  which  are 
found  mosaic  pavements  and  frag- 
ments of  ancient  paintings.  This  is 
the  part  said  to  have  been  inhabited 
by  Heraclius  in  the  seventh  century. 
Any  attempt  to  describe  these  ruins 
or  assign  tliem  to  particular  emperors 
would  be  mere  loss  of  time.  The 
names  given  to  the  circular  chambers 
and  other  portions  are  names  and 
nothing  more ;  and  their  general 
accuracy  may  be  estimated  by  the 
fact  that  the  ciceroni  show  a  circular 
room  as  the  bath  in  which  Seneca 
was  bled  to  death,  although  he  is 
kr.own  to  have  died  at  his  own  villa 
some  miles  distant.  Tlicse  fine  ruins, 
clothe<l  in  ivy  and  creeping  plants, 
and  diversified  by  laurels  and  ilex, 
supply  the  artist  with  innumerable  \ 
combinations  for  his  pencil.  At  the  ' 
angle  of  the  hill  towards  the  Piazza 
di  S.  Gregorio  is  a  vineyard  in  which  , 
stood  the  Septizonium  of  Septimius 
Sevcrus,  converted  into  a  fortress  by 
the  llomma  nobility  during  the  middle 


ages.  It  was  destroyed  by  Sixtus  V. 
to  furnish  materials  for  hiis  works  at 
St.  Peter's. 

JBasitiea  of  ConUantine,  formerly 
supposed  to  be  the  Temple  of  Peace, 
erected  by  Vespasian  to  receive  the 
spoils  brought  by  his  son  Titus  from 
Jerusalem.  It  has,  however,  been 
decisively  proved  that  this  temple 
was  entirely  consumed  by  fire  in 
the  reign  of  Commodus ;  and  the  an- 
tiquaries were  long  at  fault  in  dis- 
covering the  probable  purpose  of  the 
existing  ruin.  Professor  Nibby  was 
the  first  who  suggested  that  they  are 
the  remains  of  the  Basilica  of  Constan- 
tino. The  style,  indeed,  indicates  the 
decline  of  art,  and  the  execution 
shows  that  it  is  properly  referred  to 
the  time  of  Constantine.  It  is,  there- 
fore, believed  that  the  building  was 
erected  by  Maxentius  from  the  ruins 
of  the  Temple  of  Peace,  and  dedi- 
cated, after  his  death,  to  his  successful 
rival.  Small  chambers  have  been 
found  under  the  ruins,  which  may 
have  belonged  to  the  Temple  of 
Peace,  and  some  of  the  paving  bricks 
are  marked  with  the  name  of  Domi- 
tian ;  both  facts  supporting  the  cox^ec- 
ture  that  it  was  built  on  the  ruins  of 
an  earlier  edifice.  A  small  portion 
only  of  the  original  building  is  now 
standing,  but  there  is  sufficient  to 
allow  architects  to  make  out  the  plan 
and  ascertain  the  measurements.  It 
appears  that  it  was  300  Paris  feet 
long  and  220  wide ;  and  that  it  con- 
sisted of  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles, 
divided  into  three  large  arches  about 
75  feet  across.  Those  which  formed 
the  northern  nave  still  remain ;  but 
the  rest  have  disappeared,  together 
with  the  central  aisle.  Recent  exca- 
vations have  proved  that  the  original 
entrance  faced  the  Coliseum,  where 
traces  of  an  external  arcade  have 
been  discovered.  The  vaulted  roof 
seems  to  have  l>ecn  supported  by 
eight  marble  columns  of  the  Corin- 
thian order,  62  feet  in  height,  one  of 
which  was  standing  in  the  time  o€ 
Pau\  v.,  w\\o  TVitcvoN^^  Vl  N»  ^^ 
Piazza  o£  Sl«u  'MaxX*^  "^^i^^vw^    ^^ 

i 


V    Die 


H.  27. —  ROME. — AntiqtdSet;  Temptet,    fSecl.-T"' 


frugment  which  rcmainB  ibe 
TKaUini^  toe  ducoraled  with  large 
•unit    oetagunal    panels    filled      -'■■- 


Tliei 


liddle  ] 


u  dc*|ier  tbui  tbe 
two  rowa  of  imall  arches,  destrojjng 
the  effect  bjruuignificantdeuila.  Tlie 
priacipal  tribune  was  placed  at  the 
extremity  of  the  central  aisle;  some 
!l«fnncnt(  of  its  vaulted  coiling 
nill  lying  .     .     • 


lommoo  are  supposed  to  nand  on  llie 
site  of  iJic  temple  and  of  the  famous 
hospital  which  was  attached  to  it.  Dy 
descending  from  the  gardena  of  the 
convent  upon  the  massive  ruins  which 
form  the  MUlbern  point  of  the  iilatid, 
we  may  slill  sec  the  sUfT  and  serpent 
of   .ffiscuUpius    sculptured 


nlhect 


It  garden 


.   Then 


•till  lyin^  on  the  around.    A  winding    four  granite  columns  ii 

nearly  entire.  The  pavement  was  of  l  tlie  temple.  In  the  centre  oi  ine 
npolkinOi  giollo  antico,  and  other  |  inland  was  an  Egyptian  obelisk  placed 
marbtes.  'Jlie  whole  arrangement  ofi  so  as  to  rttemhle  a  ship's  mast;  fnun 
1  suggested   the  remains  of  s  basetnent  discovered 


and 


,    the  forms  of  the  early  cliurchi 
K'fbere  is  no  doubt  thai 
r  lion  of  the  edifice  was 

a  plaoe  of  worship  boo 

of  Conitantine. 


Temple  of  JUiculapiuii,  on  the  island 

of  tbe  Tiber,  which  win  sacred  to  the 

gtid   of  medicine.      This  celebrated 

temple  was   built  n.c.  99:j,  on  the 

return  oF  the  ambassadors  who  had 

been  sent  to  Epidaurus  in  accordance 

vitb  the  instructions  of  the  Sibylline 

f  nraolea,   tut  tbe  purpose  of  bringing 

g  JBaoulapius  to  Rome,  then  suHbring 

■itmn    plague.       The   story   of    Iheir 

'voyage  is  too  wiU  known  to  tbe  readefs 

of  Iji«y  to  re(|uirc  a  repetition  oF  the 

details  t  it  will  be  sufficient  to  state 

that,  on  their  return  with  the  sUtue 

of  tlio  god,  it  was  Found  that  a  serpent 

had  entered  tbe  ship,  and  that  ^scu- 

*  lopius  himseir  was  supposed  to  have 


Ifhe 


illy. 


supposed 

liaic  been  of  great  siie,  and  the  Frag- 
ment of  the  obelisk  found  here  in  the 
lust  century  was  probably  but  a  small 
portion  of  it.  This  fragment  was 
long  preserved  in  the  Villa  Albaiu, 
but  it  lias  now  passed  with  other 
trea!.ures  uF  that  collection  to  the  Ma< 
^mple  of 


.^ilsculap 
dicaled  tt 


It  Paris. 


Tiber  the  serpent  went  out  of  the 
veascl  and  hid  himself  in  the  reeds  of 
the  island.  A  temple  was  thorcfore 
erected  to  him.  and  tbe  whole  Island 
was  faced  with  travertine,  its  fiu-m 
being  reduced  lo  the  resemblance  ofa 


tbe  island,  the  one  d«. 
upiler,  the  other  to  Fau- 
are  mentioned  by  Livy 
and  tbe  poets,  but  all  traces  of  ' 
have  diGippenred  under  the  ma 
houses  with  which  the  island  is 
covered. 

nmpli  of  AtdOKinvt  and  Fawriiaa, 
in  the  tloman  Forum,  now  the  Church 
of  S.  Lorenio  in  Mironda,  This 
interesting  ruin  Is  proved  by  thi 
scription  to  he  Ibe  temple  dedicated 
by  tbe  senate  to  Faustina,  wife  of  the 
emperor  Antoninus  Pius,  who 
alter  words  admitted  lo  Ibe 
honour.      It   consists  of  a  portioa  of 


n  Corii 


cotun 


ront. 


m^-L 


relumed  on  tbe  fl»i)ks.  Each 
eolumniscomposedoFaBingle block  of 
cipoUino,  or  Carysthian  niarble,  about 
46  fiiet  in  height,  B  '  '  ' 
cepilalsof  Parian  mail 
of  which  two  sides  remain,  is  built  t£ 
.ibie.      The  masses  of,  large   blocks    oF    pcperino,    former]  j 

led  the  sides  are  well  ;  faced   with    marble,     Tbe   ascent    r 

prex-rred  at  the  saulliern  end,  and  the  temple  waa  ascertained,  by  eic 
'"ly  be  seen  from  botU  biiiiges.  I'he  Wationa  raaie  in  \810,  to  be  by 
'■■■-'•  ajjd   Cbaient  of  Sati  BBrto-\ft'iglrtot2\n>"\>\=^^'¥'""^'>^'-^''^ 


P€^  StaUiJ}     R.  27. — ROM& — AniiqtUHes;  Temples. 


825 


above  the  level  of  the  Via  Sacra. 
The  eella  and  portico  have  preserved 
a  considerable  portion  of  their  magni- 
ficent entablatures,  which  are  of  Greek 
marble.  The  frieze  and  cornice  are 
exquiatdy  sculptured,  witl^  griffins, 
vases,  and  candelabra ;  over  the  portico 
is  the  inscription,  **  oivo  antokiko  et 

PIVJB       FAUSTINJE5.       XX.     8.0.**         The 

columns  are  beautifully  proportioned, 
and  the  whole  building  is  in  the  finest 
style  of  art ;  not  surpassed,  if  indeed 
it  be  equalled,  by  any  other  edifice  in 
Rome.  It  is  supposed  to  date  from 
the  middle  of  the  second  century  of 
our  era. 

Temple  of  Antoninus  Pius,  in  the 
Piazza  della  Pietra,  the  site  of  the 
Forum  of  Antoninus.  It  is  con- 
sidered by  the  German  antiquaries  to 
be  the  Temple  of  Marciana,  sister  of 
Trajan.  The  reader  will  probably 
be  already  familiar  with  this  temple, 
under  the  name  of  the  Dogana  di 
Terra,  or  Roman  custom-house.  The 
eleven  columns  now  visible  have  suf- 
fered severely  from  tlie  action  of  fire ; 
they  belonged  to  one  of  the  sides  of 
the  portico,  which,  according  to  the 
plan  of  Palladio,  originally  contained 
fifteen  columns.  They  are  of  Greek 
marble,  in  the  Corinthian  style,  4 J  feet 
in  diameter,  and  42\  feet  high.  The 
bases  and  capitals  have  almost  disap- 
peared, and  very  little  of  the  ancient 
architrave  has  been  preserved.  In- 
nocent XII.  built  up  a  wall  behind 
the  columns  to  form  the  front  of  his 
custom-house,  and  completed  the 
present  entablature  with  plaster.  In 
the  interior  arc  some  remains  of  the 
vaulting,  composed  of  enormous  masses 
of  stone,  together  with  some  fragments 
of  the  cclla,  which  form  apparently 
the  foundation  of  the  modern  wall. 

Temple  of  Bacchus,  a  doubtful  name  | 
given  to  a  ruin  near  the  Grotto  of 
Kgeria,  now  the  deserted  church  of 
S.  Urbano.  It  was  formerly  called 
the  Temple  of  Honour  and  Virtue. 
It  is  a  rectangular  building,  with  a 
portico  of  four  white  marble  columns 
of  the  Corinthian  style,  8up|)oscd  to 
be  taken  from  some  other  building  of 


the  time  of  the  Antonines.  The  in- 
tercolumniations  were  walled  up  when 
the  building  was  adapted  for  Christian 
worship,  and  half  the  columns  are 
consequently  concealed.  The  interior 
retains  a  portion  of  its  ancient  stucco 
frieze,  representing  various  trophies 
of  war,  but  greatly  damaged  ;  in  the 
vault  are  sunk  octagonal  panels;  in 
the  centre  of  the  roof  are  the  remains 
of  a  bas<relief,  representing  two 
persons  sacrificing  with  uncovered 
heads.  The  building  was  converted 
into  a  church  by  Urban  VIII.,  when 
a  circular  altar,  with  a  Greek  inscrip- 
tion, was  found  in  the  subterranean 
oratory.  This  inscription  refers  to 
Bacchus,  and  has  given  the  building 
its  present  name.  The  paintings  in 
the  interior,  representing  events  in 
the  life  of  Christ,  S.  Cecilia,  &c.,  are 
curious  specimens  of  art  of  the 
eleventh  century. 

Temple  of  Ceres  and  Proserpine, 
now  forming  part  of  the  church  of  S. 
Maria  in  Cosmedin,  near  the  temple 
of  Vesta,  better  known  as  the  Bocca 
della  Verita.  The  temple  was  rebuilt 
by  Tiberius.  Eight  columns  of  the 
peristyle,  of  white  marble,  and  finely 
fluted,  are  partly  walled  up  in  the 
modem  portico.  By  ascending  to  the 
gallery  above,  the  capitals  may  be 
examined  ;  they  are  of  the  composite 
order,  beautifully  worked  in  the  purest 
marble,  and  are  a  sufilicient  proof 
that  the  building  belongs  to  the  best 
period  of  art.  The  great  width  of 
the  intercolumhiations  may  be  noticed 
as  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  this 
fragment.  In  the  church  are  two 
other  columns,  which  apparently 
formed  the  flank  of  the  ancient  por- 
tico, and  behind  the  church  are  some 
remains  of  the  cella,  constructed  of 
large  blocks  of  travertine,  which 
Adrian  I.  is  known  to  have  destroyed, 
for  the  purpose  of  enlarging  the  old 
iMisilica.  Under  the  modern  portico 
is  the  mask  of  Pan,  which  has  given 
rise  to  the  name,  "  Bocca  della  Ve- 
ritiU"  It  represents  a  lar^^e  round 
fac^,  wvlVv  axv  o^w  xcvow'Cck.     \x.  "S^ 


'  between  it  nnd  Ihe  arch  of  Septimiut 
Severus,  nod  was  very  probnbly  con- 
Mructed  vjth  inHrbles  taken  troia  its 

Tample  of  thr  Divta  Rediculat,  n 
nMiae  gvifa  lo  an  elegant  little  leniple 
■ituatuii  111  the  velle;  of  the  AtniQaB, 
near  the  Nyiujihaun:!  of  Egerin,  (rein 
the  belief  that  it  tvai  the  temple 
founded  in  commemoration  of  Han- 
nibal's retreat  from  llome.  It  ap- 
pears, hoicCTer,  that  tbc  authoiily  for 
the  name  Bediculiu  is  very  (light,  aa 
Ptiny  nteutiaiis  Ihe  secne  of  Ibe 
retreat  as  two  miles  &oni  the  city,  oa 
Ibe  other  side  of  the  Appian.  The 
name  is  now  geiieially  needed,  and 
tile  building  is  considered  to  be  a 
tomb.  Tlie  petiod  of  it)  constructioa 
ii  unknovn,  hut  Ihe  lariety  and 
beauty  of  the  ornaments  would  seem 
to  show  that  it  la  not,  as  wui  once  sup- 
posed, a  republican   work,    but    hd 

red  and  yellow  bricks,  that  tbe  thing 


S«8 

Mquired,  on  making  an  affirmation, 
to  pUcc  bis  band  in  tbe  mouth  of  tliis 
monk,  under  the  belief  that  it  would 
close  npim  him  if  he  awore  lalsely. 
Tlie  sburcb  adjoining  ia  interesting 
ai  an  early  example  or  the  basilica ;  it 
was  founded  by  St  Dionysiui  in  the 
third  century,  on  tlie  luins  of  tlie 
temple,  and  rebuilt,  a.d.  TS9,  by 
Adrian  I.,  who  ii  said  to  bsve  been 
ai^aged  iar  an  entire  year  in  remov- 
ing the  immense  substructions  of  the 

Ttmpit  b/  Cnntani.  on  the  Clirus 
Capilolinui,  behind  the  arch  of  Sep- 
tiraius  Sevetui,  and  partly  covered  by 
the  modern  ascent.  This  title  was 
finneriy  given  to  the  portico  of  eighl 
columns,  and  the  true  site  of  the 
Temple  of  Coneord  was  uuknown 
beibre  1617.  In  that  year  the  Ftcncli. 
in  excaiBting  the  soil  around  the 
three  columns  then  called  the  temjile 
of  Jupitet  Tonnna,  discovered  a  etila 
and  four  inscriptions,  in  wbioh  the 
name  "ConcurdU"  left  no  doubt  of 
tbs  real  cborikctcr  of  ihi 


■e>|i<e 


s  have 


gre.1t  part  of  the  basement  behind  the 
■reh  of  Seplimiua  Seserus,  and  par- 
ticularly a  portion  of  the  flank,  which 
is  lolerably  well  preserved.  The 
eaisting  remains  show  that  the  portico 
wu  smaller  than  the  cella,  in  order 
lo  adapt  il  to  the  nartowne^  of  the 
ground,  llie  pavement  was  of  giallo 
autico  and  pavonaiietta.  From  the 
state  of  the  numerous  fivginents  of 
ornaments    and    carvings   discovered 


side  nen 


the 


of  brickwork,  the  remains  of  some 
building  of  the  middle  ages,  often 
confounded  with  the  temple.  Tlie 
inscriptions  alluded  to  above,  and 
the  style  of  architecture,  show  that 
the  present  fragment  is  an  imperial 
ruin ;  there  is  little  doubt,  liowever, 

publican  Temple  of  Concord,  so  cele- 

brtled  ia  the  history  of  the  Catiline  j 

conspiracy.      In    the    middle    agm    a 

church,  dedicated  to  S.  Sergiiis, stood 


tured  like  the  Unest  marble.  Wtietbei 
it  he  a  temple  or  a  tomb,  Ihe  rich 
chiselling  lavished  on  so  poor  a  design 
convinces  me  lliat  it  was  fully  as  1^ 
as  Septimius  Scverus." —  Farigth.  It 
Is  nenriy  square,  and  is  built  of  yellow 
brick,  with  a  basement  and  pilasters 
of  red.  On  the  southern  side,  where 
■  road  seems  formerly  to  have  paascdi 
it  has  small 


idilUon 


of  the 


id  and  are 
beautifully  executed.  On  tbe  ground 
is  part  of  a  peperino  column,  supposed 
to  have  belonged  to  the  portico,  which 
has  disappeared.      The  interior  is  a 

ornaments ;  ttiere  are  some  vaults  lui- 

stables  lor  cattle. 

Teaple  <lf  Farttaia  llrHU,  near  Ihe 
Ponle  Rolto,  now  the  Church  of 
Santa  Maria  EgUiiaca,  belonging  to 
the    Atmiiniaiia.     It    was    originally 


Pd^tai  States.']     R.  27.  —  ROM  b; — Antiquities  ;  Temples.      927 


destroyed  by  fire,  it  was  rebuilt  in 
the  time  of  the  republic,  and  has 
undergone  many  restorations  in  recent 
years.  It  is  an  oblong  building  of 
travertine  and  tufa,  standing  on  a 
solid  basement  of  travertine,  which 
has  recently  been  laid  open  to  the 
level  of  the  ancient  road.  The  front 
had  a  portico  of  four  c(^umns,  which 
has  been  walled  up  in  the  interco- 
lumnilUions;  the  only  flank  now 
Tinble  has  seven  columns,  five  of 
which  are  joined  to  the  walls  of  the 
eella.  The  columns  are  Ionic,  28fieet 
high ;  they  support  an  entablature 
and  firiese,  ornamented  with  heads  of 
oxen,  festoons  supported  by  candelabra, 
and  figures  of  children.  The  columns 
and  entablature  are  covered  with  a 
hard  marble  stucco.  The  basement 
is  much  admired  by  architects,  and, 
although  the  general  effect  of  the 
temple  may  be  considered  somewhat 
heavy,  the  details  of  its  Ionic  are  ge- 
nerally regarded  as  the  purest  spe- 
cimen of  that  style  in  Rome. 

Temple  ofHeretdes  Custos.  —  In  the 
garden  of  the*  Sommaschi  fathers  are 
some  remains  of  a  circular  temple, 
which  Mr.  Burgess  identifies  with 
this  name,  on  the  strength  of  a  passage 
in  Ovid,  who  places  it  in  the  Flaminian 
Circus.  The  ruins  consist  of  four 
columns  of  peperino  half  buried  in 
the  soil.  In  the  cellars  below  there 
is  another  column  of  the  same  kind, 
and  more  might  probably  bo  dis- 
covered by  excavating.  The  style  is 
supposed  to  be  Ionic. 

Temples  of  Juno  Matvta,  Nope,  and 
Piety,  —  The  church  of  S.  Niccolo  in 
Carcere  is  built  on  the  site  of  three 
temples,  which  may  still  be  identified 
by  the  columns  standing  in  their 
original  positions.  The  church  oc- 
cupies the  space  of  the  middle  temple, 
and  portions  of  the  peristyles  of  the 
others  arc  built  into  the  side  walls. 
Of  the  one  on  the  left  hand  six 
columns  in  the  Doric  style  remain. 
The  centre  fragment  is  Corinthian ; 
four  of  its  columns  have  been  pre- 
served,  three  of  which  are  in  the  ele- 


vation of  the  church.  The  third 
temple,  of  which  six  columns  with 
their  capitals  are  standing,  is  Ionic. 
The  style  and  workmanship  of  these 
ruins  have  generally  been  considered 
to  refer  them  to  the  period  of  the  re- 
public; and  if  we  admit  the  names 
under  which  they  have  long  passed, 
they  will  mark  the  site  of  the  Forum 
Olitoriam.  Many  attempts  have  been 
made  to  identify  the  central  ruin  with 
that  Temple  of  Piety  which  was 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  Decemviral 
prisons,  to  commemorate  the  cele- 
brated story  of  the  **  Caritas  Romana." 
It  appears,  however,  to  be  decisive 
from  the  statement  of  Pliny  that  the 
prison  and  temple  were  both  displaced 
in  his  time  by  the  Theatre  of  Mar- 
cellus,  and  it  would  therefore  be  use- 
less to  enter  into  any  of  the  contro- 
versies on  the  subject.  Those  writers 
who  have  identified  the  site  with  the 
Forum  Olitorium,  have  recognised  in 
the  central  ruin  the  Temple  of  Piety, 
built  by  Acilius  Glabrio,  the  duumTir, 
in  fulfilment  of  his  Other's  vow  at  the 
Pass  of  Thermopylas ;  but  this  theory 
is  also  met  by  difficulties  which  we 
must  leave  the  Roman  antiquaries  to 
discuss.  There  is  a  cell  at  the  base  of 
the  columns,  which  is  shown  to  stran- 
gers by  torchlight,  as  the  scene  of  the 
affecting  story  to  which  we  have  al- 
luded. Whatever  may  be  the  amount 
of  the  traveller's  belief  in  the  locality, 
he  will  not  forget  that  it  inspired 
those  beautiful  lines  in  the  fourth 
canto  of"  Childe  Harold,**  in  which  the 
poet  pictures  the  scene  which  has 
given  such  celebrity  to  the  Roman 
daughter :  — 

"  There  is  a  dungeon,  in  whose  dim  drear 

light 
What   do    I  gaze   on?    Nothing:    Look 

again ! 
Two   Torms  are  slowly  shadow'd  on  my 

sight  — 
Two  insulated  phantoms  of  the  brain : 
It  is  not  so ;  I  sec  them  flill  and  plain  — . 
An  old  man,  and  a  female  young  and  fair, 
Fresh  as  a  nursing  motlier,  in  whose  vein 
The  blood  it  nectar: — but  what  doth  she 

there, 
With  her  unmantled  neck^  &tid\M«^TDL'<«^^«, 

andYtate? 


^P'  Bui 


R.  37.  —  ROMS.  —  Antlgultiet ;  TVmpfcj.      fSect.  I; 

IL"'«'^'^hIr™rd?«  brti''i'l,S"dJl,?V''"«''P'«'"  "'■■«"'y  mentioned  a.i  for- 

'     "-™  I  "lerly   existing    on    the   Tabularium. 

t  U  accurately  described  by  Dicmj- 

us,   vlio  ays   ibat  it  was   diTided 

-Uo   three  ctil^*-  '^*'**  ■"  '**"*   t^^ntra 


^ 


TbeiUTTT  bbl 
llu  Hit  thy  Ml 


n.Uk^-..y 


Tentplt  o^  Jupilcr  CapUoXnya 

tbough  this  nugiiilicent  Um|i1ei 
pride  and  wandvr  of  Bucicnt  &a 
luiB  ditappuorcil,  a  caMloguD  oF 
Itonwn  templei  would   hanlly  » 

rite.  We  liave  already  staled,  in 
g^cral  introduotian  to  tbe  antiqui 
'  iuTable  renuuiu  of  t 


left 


being  dedicated  Xa  Jupiter,  th 

right  to  Miaerva,  and  that  o 

to  Juno.     As  there  is  uo  traea  of  the 

building  ilidf,  itwuuld  bcBuperSuDUi 

to  divell  u)ii>n  its  details  fuithCT  than 

which  wns  struclc  by  ligbtning  a.  c- 
Gi,  when  the  eelebreted  broate  wolf 
was  injured,  as  described  by  Cicero. 
In  tbe  cell  of  Jupiter  stood  the  itatue 
of  the  god,  wliich  is  represented  on 

with  the  Biot  extended,  A  well-known 
Leo  I., 


liddic  of  ti 


:  lirUi    c 


rail  of  pi 


Cafikrelli  Fa1< 
prino,  have  been  identilied  with  the 
tubstructions  of  thia  temple.  We 
know  that  the  Tarciuins  hiid  the 
fuundalions  by  filling  up  the  uneven 
space  on  the  suiamit  of  the  hill  by  an 

The  temple  was  KOO  feel  in  length, 
and    185   feet    in    brmidth.       It    was 

foundations  by  Sylla,  who  deeorated 
it  with  columns  of  Penlelic  marble, 
brought  from  the  splendid  temple  of 
Jupiter  Olympius  at  Athens.  Tra- 
vellera  wlio  have  had  an  opportunity 
of  admiring  the  proportions  of  those 
columns  of  the  Athenian  temple  whiL'h 
still  cast  their  melancholy  shadows  on 
the  plain  of  the  DissuB,  will  hardly  be 
at  a  lass  to  imagine  Ihe  grandeur  of  a 
temple  situated  on  tliis  cammanding 
emineaee,  aad  of  which  they  formed 
the  principal  omaments.  The  tcmiile 
tAia   restored    was    dedicated    by    L. 


down  this  : 
figure  of  St.  Peter  i  but  the  troditioD, 
though  repeated  by  numerous  writeri, 
docs  not  seem  to  rest  on  any  reoog- 
niscd  authority.  Several  htlicrs  of 
the  church,  St.  Jerome,  St.  Augustin, 
St.  Ambrose,  and  others,  meotioa  tba 
temple  as  existing  in  Iheir  limei  and 
there  are  other  authorities  which  notiM 
late  as  the  eighth  century,  i! 


re  of  it 


Bloat. 


In   Ihe   sitteenth   century  a   cbumli 


destroyed  in  1537,  but  the  nam*  ii 
considered  by  the  Roman  antiquaiWB 
to  preserve  the  record  of  Jupiter  Oi>- 
timus  Msiinius.  The  walls  in  the 
gardens  of  the  palace  ere  of  immense 
solidity;  about  eighty  feet  of  wall 
may  he  traced,  and  whatever  disputes 

tive  localities  of  the  temple  and  the 
citadel,  lliere  cun  be  no  doubt  what- 
soever lliat  lliese  ruins  have  beat  cof- 
recttv  identilied  with  the  republieftn 
substructions  of  the  CapiloL 

Tempk  of  Jupiter  FcrMriui.  —  This 
temple  19  generally  supposed  lu  have 

Capitoline  hill,  now  occupied  by  the 
el^u^c\l  anJ.  lninias\.«i  qV  Ara  Cieli. 
\  H  Tvas   ttic   ttsl  \KTOti\K   Kscvsi  ■™. 


Pqpai  State8,2     r.  27. — rome. — AnUquUiea;  Tempks.        329 


Rome,  and  was  built  by  Romulus  to 
receive  the  spoils  taken  from  Acron 
king  of  Coenina.  There  are,  howeYer, 
many  writers  who  place  the  Arx,  or 
citadel,  on  this  summit.  Few  sub- 
jects oTRoman  topography  have  given 
rise  to  more  controversy  than  this  dif- 
ficult question :  the  temple  and  the 
citadel  have  continually  changed  their 
positions  in  the  varying  theories  of 
antiquaries;  but  the  weight  of  evi- 
dence certainly  appears  in  favour  of 
the  opinion  which  considers  the  Ara 
Cceli  as  the  representative  of  the  tem« 
pie.  The  columns  in  the  church  are 
evidently  ancient,  and  were  probably 
taken  from  the  ruins ;  and  under  one 
of  the  walls  of  the  monastery  are  some 
fragments  of  massive  sut^tructions, 
which  are  the  only  visible  remains  of 
the  foundations  of  thb  celebrated 
shrine. 

Temple  of  Minerva  Chalcidiea,  in 
the  Roman  Forum,  between  the  Pa- 
latine and  the  supposed  site  of  the 
Temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux.  This 
ruin  has  been  keenly  contested  by  the 
antiquaries,  having  been  called  at 
Tarious  times  the  Temple  of  Jupiter 
Stator,  the  Graecostasis,  a  part  of  the 
Comitium,  a  senate-house,  and  even 
the  bridge  of  Caligula.  Tlie  present 
name  is  that  given  to  it  by  Chev. 
Bunscn,  who  connects  it  with  the 
Curia  Julia.  It  consists  of  three 
fluted  columns  of  Greek  marble  in  the 
Corinthian  style,  on  a  basement  of 
travertine  and  tufa  faced  with  marble, 
and  from  25  to  30  feet  in  height,  llie 
columns  support  an  entablature  of 
great  richness,  but  beautifully  propor- 
tioned. The  flutings  are  about  9  inches 
across :  the  columns  are  47^  feet  high, 
and  4  feet  9  inches  in  diameter.  In 
execution  and  proportion  the  frag- 
ment is  universally  considered  of  the 
highest  order  of  art,  and  architects 
still  regard  it  as  the  most  perfect 
model  of  the  Corinthian  order.  In 
1817  it  was  excavated  to  the  base  for 
the  purpose  of  finding  the  angles,  and 
more  recent  investigations  have  proved 
that  it  fbrmed  a  portion  of  an  exten- 
aivcediSee,  of  which  the  foundations 


may  be  traced  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. Numerous  mouldings  have  also 
been  discovered,  and  marks  of  the 
steps  ai«  still  visible  in  the  basement. 
The  fragments  of  the  Fasti  Consu- 
lares,  preserved  in  the  Capitol,  were 
found  near  this  ruin  in  the  sixteenth 
century. 

Temple  of  Minerva  Medical  a  pictu- 
resque ruin,  so  called,  on  the  Esqui- 
line,  near  the  Porta  Maggiore,  con-  ' ) 
sisting  of  a  decagonal  building,  80  | 
feet  in  diameter,  with  a  large  dome  of 
brick,  which  forms  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject from  all  parts  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  circumference  has  nine 
large  niches  for  statues,  which  sug- 
gested the  idea  that  it  was  a  pantheon 
dedicated  to  Minerva  Medica.  The 
discovery  of  seven  of  these  statues  at 
various  times,  and  particularly  of  those 
of  Minerva  and  iBsculapius,  confirms 
this  view,  although  several  attempts 
have  been  made  by  the  antiquaries 
to  shake  the  popular  belief,  and  give 
the  ruin  a  name  of  their  own  creation, 
llie  bare  walls  and  some  vestiges  of 
buttresses  alone  remain;  but  the 
building  appears  to  have  been  lined 
with  marble.  There  are  no  traces  of  a 
portico.  The  age  of  the  temple  is 
not  known,  but  it  is  generally  referred 
to  the  time  of  Diocletian. 

Temple  of  Nerva^  or  of  Mars  UHoTt 
between  the  Roman  Forum  and  that 
of  Tri^an.  lliis  beautiful  fragment 
was  formerly  considered  to  mark  the 
position  of  the  Fontm  of  Neriuz,  or  the 
Forum  Transitorium,  and  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  magnificent  temple 
erected  to  that  emperor  by  his  succes- 
sor Trajan.  Mr.  Burgess,  however, 
and  other  antiquaries,  adopt  the  opi- 
nion of  Palladio,  and  regard  it  as  the 
temple  of  Mars  Ultor,  erected  by  Au- 
gustus, whose  Forum  he  consequently 
places  here.  The  work  of  Desgodets 
contains  four  plates  of  the  details  un- 
der the  same  name.  Niebuhr,  on  the 
other  hand,  supposed  it  to  have  formed 
part  of  the  Bathe  of  Caius  and  Lucius 
Caear,  The  ruin,  which  has  veoenlV] 
been  excavated,  lo  \\.%  \^a&^  «<^\avbX&  ^ 
a  poilion  ^  \.\i«  c^Wa^  VVCcw  ^x^  '«^- 


«.  ST.  —  BOMB.  —  Antiipiitia  ;  TempUg.      fSeet  t 


CBltl 

■Ijle   of  tbe  temple. 


1     Bon 


I  of  tlie  right  peristyle,  and  a  pilm- 
1  thg  lalUT  nre  of  Luan  (Cnrrora) 
marble,  in  the  Corinthimn  alyle,  and 
areHHttube54&ethigli.  Tbeorno- 
menti  are  m  the  purest  Btyle,  and  the 
ptoporlioiu  are  reguded  b]r  architect* 
u  a  dkhIcI  of  the  order.  Behind  the 
columns  mid  partly  resting  on  them, 
u  ■  high  brick  tower  belon^ng  to 
It  of  the  NuniiatijiB,  which 
inner  peri- 
n  eieellcnt 

the  ^temple  and  ibrutn,  is  given  by 
Butuen  iu  Ibe  "  fieschreibung." 
(IIdk  to  the  ruin  i»  an  ancient  arch, 
lied  VAko  <U  Panlani,  half  buried 
nlhe  mil,  whJcfa  formed  one  of  the 
^ent  entraucEa.  Tbe  wsll  of  the 
Ibimni  may  be  traced  ai  far  aa  the 
Fiaiia  del  GHllo ;  it  is  a  Mupendoua 
fragment,  between  500  and  600  feel 
in  limgtb,  built  of  tquaio  blocks,  and 
of  great  height.  It  make*  three  or 
fi>ur  angles,  and  was  originally  pierced 
with  four  arches,  now  walled  up,  and 
half  burled  in  the  loil. 

Temple   of  PaOii    Minena,    com- 

iiunily  called  the  Colomaere,  close   to 

.f  the  Temple  of  Ncrva,  or 

toi.    This  fragment,  which 

veil  known  fiom  models  and  en- 

ivings,  it  one  of  the  mo*t  beBUliful 

m  ia  Rome,  ultbongh  the  details 

ij  be  considered  to  mark  the  period 

the  decline  of  art.     It  consists  of 

Corinthian  order, 

.,    iB  cent  entablature 

ftnd  continued  frie/e.      The  columns 

are    more   than    half    buried    in   the 

ground,  but  their  height  is  estimated 

at  as  fbet,  and  their  circumference  at 

II  feel.   They  staud  io  front  of  a  solid 

wall  of  peperino,         ■-■    ■  •    • 


outh,  with 
an  urn  of  water.  All  these  deUils  are 
giTeA  by  Desgodeti  with  great  fide- 
lity, llicre  is  ample  proof  that  a 
considerable  portioa  of  this  temple 
has  been  destroyed  in  comparatively  le- 
oent  limes.  Inigo  Jones,  in  1614,  saw 
a  pari  of  the  temple  itself  still  sUnd- 
ing  ;  and  Air.  Burgess  gives  a  sketch, 
UkenfroniCamncci's"Antiquities,"in 
which  seren  columns  and  a  portion  of 
tlie  pediment  are  represented  as  con- 
nected with  this  iragment  by  an  arch. 
All  these  were  destroyed  by  Paul  V. 
10  build  his  fountain  on  the  Jauicu- 
lum.  From  an  inscription  on  the 
&ieze  in  this  sketch,  containing  the 
tume  of  Nerva,  and  from  other  cir- 
cumstances connected  with  the  loca- 
lities, ,  HuTgess  concludes  that  tlie 
Colonnacce  belonged  to  the  Forum  of 
Nerra. 

PaaihscM,    called   by   the    Romans 

Lu  Itoloiidu This  celebrated  temple 

is  one  of  those  relics  of  ancient  Rome 
with  wliose  general  appearance  most 
travellers  are  familiar  long  before  they 
cross  the  Tiber.  It  is  situated  in  the 
Herb-market,  a  small  dirty  plsiia  be- 
tween the  Corso  and  the  Piazza  Ns' 
The  propoi 


's  the 


i  still   > 


iible. 


The 


frieze  is  richly  ornamented  with  sculp- 
ture, representing  the  arts  patronised 
by  MinervD.  In  the  attic  above  the 
two  columns  is  a  full-length  figure  of  | 

the  frieie  are  females  weaving  ;  others 

treighiug  the  threads,  or  measuring  I 

the  webs;  others  carrying   the   oila- 

(Aui-;  and  a  silting  figure  of  the  god- 


ellers,  and 
identified  with  architectural  beauty. 
The  anoients  described  it  with  admi- 
ration eighteen  centuries  ago,  and  it 
Btill  reouun*  tbe  best-preserved  monu- 
ment of  modem  Rome.  " 'Htough 
plundered,"  says  Forsyth,  "of  all  its 
brass,  eicopt  the  ring  which  was  ne- 
cessary to  preserve  the  aperture  abore; 
though  exposed  to  repealed  fire ; 
though  sometimes  flooded  by  the  river, 
and  always  open  lo  the  rain,  no  monu- 
ment of  equal    antiquity  '  " 


.B  this 
with  little  altera t 


,on  from 


e  Pagan 


venient  were  its  niches  (a 
tian  altar,  that  Michael  Angelo,  eeer 
studious  of  ancient  beauty,  introduced 
tlveir  deaign  a?  a  moitV  in  the  Catholic 
I  cWTt\i." 


Plapat  States.^  R*  ^* — Rome. — Antiquities  ;  The  Pantheon.    331 


"  Simjplt^  erect,  ceverc,  euateve,  niblime— 
Shiuie  of  idl  ninU  and  temple  of  all  gods, 
Flroiii  Jove  to  Jesus — 8i«rra  and  bless'd  by 

tiBW, 

T/nn^jPf  tranquillity,  while  fidls  or  nods 
Arch,  empire,  each  thing  round  thee,  and 

naa  plods 
Hit  w»y  through  thcmu  to  ashes — glorious 

dome! 
Shalt  thou  not  last?  Time's  scythe  and 

tyrants*  rods 
Shiver  upon  thee — sanctuary  and  home 
Of  art  and  piety— Pantheon !  pride  of  Rome  I  *' 

ChUde  Harold. 

The  inaoription  on  the  frieze  shows 
that  it  wst  erected  by  Agrippa  in  his 
third  consulate  (b.  c.  26).  A  second 
inscription,  mgraved  in  two  lines  on 
the  border  of  the  architrave,  records 
the  subsequent  restoration  of  the 
building  by  Septimius  Severus.  In 
608  Boni&c«  IV.  obtained  permission 
from  the  emperor  Phocas  to  conse- 
crate it  as  a  Christian  church,  under 
the  name  of  S.  Maria  ad  Martyres ; 
and  to  this  circumstance  the  world  is 
probably  indebted  for  the  preservation 
erf*  the  only  temple  of  ancient  Rome 
which  has  retained  its  original  appear- 
ance. The  Portico,  which  was  origi- 
nally raised  five  steps  above  the  Pi- 
azza, has  been  admitted  by  most  writers 
to  be  almost  beyond  criticism.  Forsyth 
declares  that  it  is  *'  more  than  fault- 
less :  it  is  positively  the  most  sublime 
result  that  was  ever  produced  by  so 
little  architecture."  It  is  110  feet 
long,  and  44  deep,  and  is  composed  of 
sixteen  Corinthian  columns  of  oriental 
granite,  with  capitals  and  bases  of 
Greek  marble.  Eight  of  these  are  in 
front,  and  the  remaining  eight  are 
arranged  in  four  lines  behind  them, 
so  as  to  divide  the  portico  into  three 
portions.  All  the  columns  are  in  their 
original  position  except  three  on  the 
east ;  one  of  these  was  added  by 
Urban  VIII.  in  1627,  and  may  easily 
be  recognised  by  the  6ee,  the  armorial 
bearing  of  the  Barbcrini,  in  the  ca- 
pital ;  the  other  two  were  added  by 
Alexander  VII.  in  1662,  and  are,  in 
like  manner,  distinguished  by  the  star 
of  the  Chigi  family,  introduced  into 
the  capitals.  Each  column  is  com- 
posed of  a  siii^Je  block  46^  English 
feet  ia  bei^t,  mud  5  feet  in  diameter. 


The  vestibule  is  supported  by  fluted 
pilasters  of  white  marble,  correspond- 
ing with  the  columns.  On  the  firieze 
of  the  entablature  is  the  inscription, 

**  M.  f  AGRIPPA    .     L.     F.     COS.     TERTIVM. 

FBCiT."  The  whole  is  surmounted  by 
a  pediment,  which  still  retains  the 
marks  by  which  its  bas-reliefs  were 
attached.  In  the  vestibule  on  the 
left  of  the  doorway  is  a  Latin  inscrip* 
tion,  recording  that  Urban  VIIL 
moulded  the  remains  of  the  bronze 
roof  into  columns  to  serve  as  orna- 
ments of  the  Apostle's  tomb  in  the 
Vatican,  and  into  cannons  for  the 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo.  Venuti  states 
that  no  less  than  450,250  pounds* 
weight  of  metal  were  removed  on  this 
occasion.  As  a  great  part  of  the  roof 
had  been  previously  stripped  by  the 
emperor  Constans  II.,  in  657,  the 
reader,  from  these  facts,  may  form 
some  idea  of  the  original  magnificenoe 
of  the  temple.  The  marble  doorway 
corresponds  in  its  architecture  with 
the  portico.  Within  it  are  bronze 
pilasters,  on  which  the  doors  are  hung; 
the  opening  is  about  39  feet  high  and 

1 9  wide.  Over  it  is  the  ancient  bronze 
grating,  which  has  been  preserved  un« 
altered.  The  bronze  doors  have  been 
the  subject  of  much  controversy,  but 
there  appears  to  be  no  ground  for 
doubting  their  antiquity,  or  referring 
them  to  any  but  classical  times  ;  and 
the  best  authorities  now  agree  in  re- 
garding them  as  the  original  doors  of 
Agrippa.  The  interior  of  the  temple 
is  a  rotunda,  supporting  a  dome.  Tlie 
rotunda  is  143  feet  in  diameter,  exclu- 
sive of  the  walls,  which  are  said  to  be 

20  feet  thick.  The  height  from  the 
pavement  to  the  summit  is  also  143 

I  feet,  and  the  dome  occupies  one-half 
of  the  height,  or  71}  feet,  according 
to  Messrs.  Taylor  and  Cresy,  on 
whose  authority  these  measurements 

I  are  given.     In  the  upright  wall  are 

I  seven  large  niches,  four  of  which  have 
fluted  columns  of  giallo  antico  of  the 

!  Corinthian  order,  and  two  have  similar 
columns  of  stained  pavonazzetto.  The 
seventh,  facVng  xYi^  *u\.t«rr^^  v^  cs^^*^-* 

;  and  haa  Iwo  coVomtA  ol  fXyaw^^**^ 


532 


n.  27.- 


ME. — Amiqaitiet  I    ThePan^eon.  ^Sect.  f^ 


nuielto  aUnJing  wilhln  llie  circle,  ucriitj  btliiud  tlie  liuilding  loiM 
B«l<mn  tlie  nicbei  are  eight  "Kdi-  .  remains  of  lliv  builis  of  Agrippa  mi; 
culv,"  converted  into  madern  alUni.  still  be  recogniaed,  Tbe  Panlheon  in 
Above  the  nicbet  uid  *ltar«  runs  s  j  more  recent  times  Iibb  sequired  aa 
nufble  eomice,  covered  with  rkli  inlcisst  very  dilTcrent  rrom  llicie  xa- 
■suIplure,peTrectIypre9erved.andsup- '  cords  of  the  empire.  It  U  mored  in 
porting  an  ittia,  wiih  fuurteen  nicbei  !t1ie  liiitory  or  art  as  Ibe  Jwria(-pla»  ^ 
Mid  ft  second  eumice.  From  this  rises  ^  Raphatl,  whose  tomb  Is  in  tlie  tliiid 
the  m^ettic  dome,  divided  into  square  chapel  on  the  left ;  it  was  endoircd  by 


:  supposed  t 
ivcred  with  I 
:ireuiai  open 


been  ariginall; 

In  tbo  oeotre  i 

bet   in    diameter,   supplies    the  only 

U^l  which  tbe  temple  receiver    The 

paeBBOit  is  compoied  uf  porphyry, 

psTonauelto,  and  giallo  anticu,  dis- 

poted  alternately  in 


:i  belo« 


is  ■  drain  to  carry  ufT  tbe  vi 
entenby  the  dome.    Miohael  Angelo 
Mlributcd  the  portico  and  body  of  the 
ntunda  to  Agrippa,  the  first  story  of 
tbe   interior    "   ■  ■  ■     ■ 


There  bu  been  much  controversy  in 
regard  to  the  original  purpose  of  the 
Pantheon,  many  writers  contending 
tfaU  it  was  originally  connected  with 
the  baths  Goostructed  by  Agrippa  in 
this  neighbourhood,  am!  that  the  par- 
tico  was  an  after-thoughL  Whatever 
value  tbe  stranger  may  be  disposed  to 
attach  to  these  conjectures,  it  is  worthy 


d  ii  distinguished  by  lb 
of  the  Madonna  del  Sasto,  executed 
at  hia  request  by  hia  friend  and  pupil 
Loremetlo.  The  Itoman  antiquaries, 
■fler  having  unsettled  the  faith  of  aga 
on  every  matter  connected  with  the 
atitiqnitiea,  began  to  raise  doubts  of 

of  Raphael.  It  was  at  length  deter- 
mined  to  settle  the  question  by  exa- 
mining the  spot,  and  accordingly  on 
the  14tb  September,  1833,  the  place 
was  opened  in  the  presenee  of  Over. 
and  the ,  beck  and  other  artists  resident  ill 
Rome.  The  statement  of  Vasarl  was 
cumplctely  verified,  and  the  lionea  of 
the  immortal  painter  were  discovered 
precisely  as  be  describes,  behind  the' 
"    ■      rbapcL     "  Four  views  of- 


blsture  are  distinctly  viiiblc  behin 
the  present  portico,  which  seems  t 
have  been  intended  to  conceal  then: 
The  farm  also  of  the  Pantheon,  sepi 
rated  from  the  portico,  is  simply  lbs 
of  the  ancient  co/ifariun,  as  may  bt 
»ecn  on  comparing  it  with  the  circular 
chamber  at  the  balbs  of  Caracalla. 
llie  body  of  the  building  is  of  briclc< 
work,  strengthened  by  numerous  blind 
arches;  Its  exurnol  surface  was  fur- 
merly  coated  with  marble,  wliich  has 
shared  tbe  fate  of  the   bri 


the  b 


graved  Irom  drawings  by  Gimuccliu, 


appeoi 


:etfaat 


itself.  The  sbroud  bad  been ' 
T   fastened  with  a  number  of  m 

and  points  ;  some  of  these  were  kept 
I   by  the  sculptor  Fabrii,  of  Rome,  wba  ' 
>  is  also  In  possession  of  casta  from  thtt] 
.    skull  and  the  right  hand.     PassavuMj 
remarks,  judging  from  tbe  cast,  tl 
the  skull  was  of  a  singularly  line  form. 
1   Tlie  boiu:s  of  the  hand  were  all  per- 
fect, but  they  crumbled  to  dust  alter' 
tlie  mould  was  taken.      The  akeletoni 
measured  about  5  feet  7  inches  ;  the! 

ting  a  very  slender  Irame.  Tbe  pnt* 
cious  relics  were  ultimately  restore^' 
to  the  same  spot,  alWr  being  placed  ii 
a  magnificent  sarcophagus, 
deform  the  portico  wore  added  by  |  by  Pope  Gregory  XVf.  'ine  me 
Bernini,  at  tEie  command  of  Urban  '  btrs  of  the  Academy  of  St.  Luke  w 
VllI,  onJ  are  in  every  way  worthy  |  interested  In  this  iuvestigaiion,  i 
of  a  pope  who  plundered  tbe  ruin  oE'i  tUej  had  been  lung  in  possession  of 
its  ornaaients,  and  gained  immortalits  I  bV,uV\  Bu^^owi  Wi  \i6  iftBA  *«  fUqhael, 
rom    the    wit    of   Pasquin.      lit   •ClM\a    ■-'--^-^^ •'        ' 


4  wWtch  Wi  \koi\  &ie  limv 


Pe^foi States,'}     r. 27. — Rome. — Antiquities;  Temples.         S33 


the  followers  of  Gall  and  Spurzheim. 
The  reputation  of  this  relic  naturally 
fell  with  its  change  of  name,  the  more 
irretrievably^  as  it  proved  to  have  be> 
longed  to  an  individual  of  no  cele- 
brity."— Quart,  Rev.  In  the  same 
chapel  is  the  tomb  of  Annibale  Ca- 
racci ;  and  in  other  parts  of  the  build- 
ing are  buried  Baldassare  Peruzzi, 
Perino  del  Vaga,  Giovanni  da  Udine, 
Taddeo  Zuccari,  and  other  eminent 
painters.  Tlie  simple  cenotaph  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Cardinal  Consalvi 
by  his  friends,  with  a  bust  by  Thor- 
waldsen,  will  not  fiiil  to  command  the 
respect  of  every  traveller  who  can  ap- 
preciate the  merits  of  that  excellent 
man  and  enlightened  statesman. 

Temple  of  Quirinus.  —  This  cele- 
brated temple,  founded  by  Numa,  re- 
built, according  to  Livy,  by  the  con- 
sul Papirius  and  again  rebuilt  by 
Augustus,  occupied  the  spot  where 
Komulus  miraculously  disappeared 
during  the  thunder-storm.  The  church 
of  San  Vitale,  in  the  Jesuits*  gardens 
on  the  Quirinal,  is  supposed  to  mark 
its  precise  site.  Fulvio  states  that  he 
saw  the  foundations  of  the  temple 
excavated  on  this-  spot,  and  that  Otho 
of  Milan,  then  Senator  of  Rome,  re- 
moved all  the  remains  and  ornaments 
which  were  discovered,  in  order  to 
make  the  steps  of  the  church  of  Ara 
Coeli  and  the  Capitol.  Several  frag- 
ments of  antiquity  have  been  disco- 
vered at  various  times  in  this  garden, 
but  no  actual  remains  of  the  temple 
are  now  visible. 

Tempfe  of  RemvSy  in  the  Roman 
Forum,  called  by  Runsen  and  others 
the  ^des  Penatium.  A  circular  tem- 
ple of  imperial  times,  about  30  feet  in 
diameter,  more  than  half  buried  in 
the  soil.  In  the  year  527  it  was 
adaptcil  by  Felix  IV.  as  the  vestibule 
to  his  basilica  of  S.  Cos'imo  and  S. 
Damiano.  Urban  VIII.  is  said  to 
have  added  the  bronze  doors  of  Etrus- 
can workmanship,  which  were  found 
at  Perugia.  He  is  also  said  to  have 
placed  in  their  present  position  the 
two  jwrphyry  columns,  with  the  cor- 
nice,   the  renuins  probably   of   the 


\ 


ancient  portico.  The  cornice  serves 
as  the  jambs  of  the  doorway,  and  its 
sculpture  does  not  appear  to  be  earlier 
than  the  latter  part  of  the  second  cen- 
tury. On  one  side  of  this  entrance 
are  two  cipollino  columns,  one  with  a 
capital,  and  part  of  an  entablature, 
deeply  buried ;  they  were  formerly 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the 
original  portico,  but  nothing  certain  is 
known  of  their  date  or  purpose.  The 
church  behind  is  raised  about  20  feet 
above  the  ancient  level  of  the  temple, 
which  may  be  seen  by  descending 
into  the  oratory  below  the  crypt. 
The  temple  is  remarkable  for  its  echo. 
In  the  crypt  were  foimd  the  celebrated 
fragments  of  the  Plan  of  Rome,  the 
Pianta  Capitolina,  which  are  now  pre- 
served in  the  museum  of  the  Capitol ; 
they  are  supposed  to  have  been  cut  in 
the  time  of  Septimius  Severus  or  Ca- 
racalla,  and  to  have  served  as  the 
pavement  of  the  temple. 

Temple  of  Romulus. — The  church  of 
San  Teodoro,  situated  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  Campo  Vaccino, 
under  the  Palatine,  has  been  supposed 
by  some  antiquaries  to  occupy  the 
site  of  this  temple.  Its  form  is  cir- 
cular, from  which  circumstance  some 
writers  have  erroneously  described  it 
as  a  Temple  of  Vesta.  The  anti- 
quaries who  refer  it  to  Romulus  rely 
chiefly  on  the  alleged  fact,  that  the 
bronze  wolf  now  in  the  Capitol  was 
that  mentioned  by  Dionysius  as  stand- 
ing at  the  Temple  of  Romulus.  But 
there  is  no  proof  that  the  wolf  was 
actually  found  there;  and  therefore 
too  much  value  must  not  be  attached 
to  this  doubtful  statement.  A  stronger 
argument  is  found  in  the  fact,  that  the 
Roman  matrons  carried  their  children 
to  the  Temple  of  Romulus  to  be 
cured,  as  they  now  do  to  the  church 
of  S.  Teodoro.  Whatever  may  be  the 
true  state  of  the  case,  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  church*  is  of  high  an- 
tiquity ;  it  was  repaired  by  Adrian  I. 
in  774,  and  rebuilt  by  Nicholas  V.  in 
1450. 

Temple  of  BQim\J>i»  ^O'*"^  ^5  "WLaxvK- 


39* 


R.  27. —  ROME.  —  AntiguUietf    Temples.       [^Sect.  L 


«ss  Ibund  in  its  proper  place  coii- 
lained  the  nwiki  of  steps  in  tlie  intar- 
colunmiatinDs,  ihowing  how  overully, 
every  foot  of  grouud  wns  economUed-i 
on  tlili  aide  of  the  Capitol.  The  co- 
lumns are  of  Carrara  (Luna)  marble^, 
in  the  Corinthian  stjle,  deeply  fluted; 
in  many  purtu  ibey  tetuin  tbe  purple 
colour  with  which  they  appear  la 
liave  been  dyed,  like  tlie  temples  of 
PompeiiandofSicily.  Thi ' 
was  lined  vitb  marble.  On  tbe 
blature  in  front  tlie  le 
are  atill  vluble,  the  remains  of  tfai 
word  Jieatituire,  proving  that  it  is  I 
Featured  building.  On  ihe  frieie  an 
sculptured  Tarioua  instruments  of 
McriBee,  the  knife,  the  axe,  the  ham- 

feet  4  ioehes  int 


tiqiuuie*  to  the  building  ndjoining  tlie 
drcu*  called  tUst  of  Coracalla,  and 
vulgulj  known  as  llie  "  Scuderia." 
Fc«  [uini  hate  been  nuire  disputed; 
sunw  colling  tlicm  the  Etsbles  of  tbe 
iiimi*,o()iers  the  AluUtorium  CssoriE, 
lUld  otben  a  Serapeon.  The  circus  la 
known,  fromao  inKiiption  found  there 
in  1BU5,  to  have  been  coiiSGorated  by 
Uuientius,  x.  n.  31 1 ;  and  the  present 
building  ia  regarded  as  the  tenjple 
erected  by  him  to  his  son  Itomulus. 
It  i>  a  circular  temple,  with  a  vaulted 
roof  supported  by  a  central  octagonal 
pier,  and  It  inclosed  in  a  large  rectan- 

carridor.  lu  tbe  Uuement  are 
niches  for  s^ulchral  urns,  »  llut  it 
Mohave  been  uicilliathasatomb 
a  lemplc.  The  diameter  of  the 
tbuilding  is  about  lOG  feel,  and  tbe 
f  tbickuen  of  the  vails  is  not  leu  than 
*■  14  feet.  There  are  two  represenla- 
ia  temple  on  coins  of 
Bomulus,  one  representing  it  with  a 
poTlico,  the  other  with  a  dome.  A 
few  years  a^o  the  ruin  was  called  the 
Torre  de'  Borgiani;  from  this  cir- 
cumstance it  is  supposed  to  liove  been 
fortified  as  a  slrongbold  by  the  Borgia 

Temple  of  Solum,  on  the  Clivus 
Capitoiinus,  above  the  Roman  Forum, 
called  tlie  Temple  of  Jupiter  Tonans 
by  the  elder  Roman  antiquaries,  the 
Temple  uf  Vespasian  by  Canina,  and 
that  of  Saturn  by  Miebuhr,  Buiiseti, 
and  other  German  authorities.  Prior 
to    the    French    invasion,    the    three 

tuin  were  buried  nearly  to  their  capi- 
tals  in  the  accumulated  rubbish.  The 
^^.  French  aseertained,  by  perforating 
^^B  iiae  toil,  that  the  basement  had  been 
^^P  parttf  removed ;  it  was  therefore  ne- 
^^F  Masary  to  remove  the  entablature  and 
^^      secure  the  ihafts  by  scaffolding  ;  the 

¥  basement  was  then  carefully  restored, 

I         the  ground  wag  cleared,  and  the  cn- 

1  lablature  replaced  in  its  original  posi- 

^F  *™-      To  tliia  ingeniotiB  restoration 

^^f    we  fre  indebted  for  one  of  the  moat , 

^^fiatureeqae  ruins  of  the  Forum.  The\quK!),tDi&,^\vQ 
^^Safj  portion  ot  the  bnsemciit  which  isuij,  \og,eiiiei  V' 


le  gcneri 


diameter,  and 

that  the  templw 

■     igU, 

menieo.  t>e  nave  scared  that  theaS 
columns  were  formerly  supposed  tO. 
belong  10  the  Temple  id'  Jupiter 
Tonans.  It  is  known  that  a  temple  of, 
that  name  waa  erected  liy  AuguaCiiB  ini 
gratitude  for  his  escape  from  lightuin  j» 
during  the  expedition  in  Spain,  oud 
that  it  was  restored  by  Septimius  Seve-; 
rusandCaracalla.  Butit isalsoknowii«^ 
from  the  testimony  of  numerous  Latia- 
writers,  that  the  Temple  of  Salum' 
stood  on  tbe  Cllvna  Capitoiinus,  be^* 
hind  the  ilfiUiaria«^tfrruH.orgoldeiH 


milestone,  of  Augustus.     This  mile«- 

stone  has  been  r 

he  precise  posi 

ion  which  leaves  no, 

oom  for  doubt  t 

hat  the  three  column! 

are   the   remain! 

of  the  Temple   ot- 

Saturn,  as  NIeb 

hr  bad  indeed  Eug-4 

gested  before  th 

discovery  was  mada. 

In  the  great  roo 

s   an    inscribed 

Faustina,  found 

some  years  back.  be-< 

ween   the   ruin 

and  the  Temple  of 

Concord.      The 

inscription    on    this 

altar  seems  to  re 

fer  to  the  srarium  of 

his  temple,  for 

there  is  ample  evi. 

dence  that  the  T 

emple  of  Saturn  oon- 

tuned,  under  th 

PegMi  States.']    iu27. — tLOUE.'^Antiquities  ;  Temples.         335 


public  and  private  contracts,  and  a 
wtme^us  ararium,  or  more  sacred  trea- 
aory,  reserved,  as  we  read  in  Livy,  for 
the  last  emergency.  If  the  Milliarium 
did  not  at  once  set  at  rest  all  questions 
as  to  the  name  of  the  temple,  this  altar 
might  be  regarded  as  a  collateral  evi- 
dence in  favopr  of  Bunsen*s  opinion. 
At  the  foot  of  the  temple  are  some 
chambers,  and  the  remains  of  a  portico 
of  Corinthian  columns  with  capitals 
adorned  with  trophies.  It  is  called  by 
Bunsen  the  Poriieus  Cliti  et  Schcia 
Xaniha.  From  an  inscription  on  the 
entablature  the  building  seems  to  have 
contained  the  statues  of  the  Dii  Con- 
sentes,  afler  they  were  replaced,  a.  d. 
368. 

Temple  of  the  Sun.  —  Under  this 
name  have  been  described  some  enor- 
mous masses  of  masonry  which  are 
lying  on  the  terrace  of  the  Colonna 
Gaidens  on  the  Quirinal.  They  con- 
sist of  part  of  an  architrave  and  frieze 
and  the  angle  of  a  pediment,  all  highly 
enriched,  in  the  Corinthian  style.  In 
point  of  size  they  are  the  most  stu- 
pendous fragments  known,  and  after 
antiquaries  and  architects  have  ex- 
liausted  conjecture  on  their  probable 
purpose,  it  has  become  a  question 
whether  the  building  for  which  they 
were  intended  was  ever  erected.  Some 
writers  have  supposed  that  they  be- 
long to  a  temple  of  the  Sun  built  by 
Aurclian ;  others,  that  they  are  to  be 
referred  to  the  Senaculum  of  Ilelio- 
gabalus ;  but  nothing  whatever  is 
known  upon  which  we  can  venture  to 
rely.  Their  style  and  ornaments  are 
certainly  in  favour  of  the  opinion 
which  fixes  their  age  at  a  period  when 
art  was  beginning  to  decline;  although 
the  work  appears  too  good  to  be  as 
late  as  the  time  of  Aurelian.  If  the 
temple  were  ever  built,  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  so  colossal  an  edifice 
placed  on  this  commanding  situation 
must  have  been  a  noble  object  from 
all  parts  of  Rome.  In  the  same  gar- 
dens overlooking  the  Piazza  Pilotta, 
are  considerable  remains  of  the  Baths 
of  Constantijie,  now  converted  into 


Temple  of  Venus  and  Cupid,  a  ruin 
long  known  by  this  name,  but  called 
by  the  German  antiquaries  the  Nymph- 
<Bum  of  Alexander^  situated  in  a  vine- 
yard, near  the  church  of  Santa  Croce 
in  Gerusalemme,  between  the  city 
walls  and  the  Claudian  aqueduct.  It 
has  been  called  at  various  times  the 
Temple  of  Spes  Vetus,  the  Sessorium, 
and  the  Temple  of  Venus  and  Cupid. 
The  latter  seems  to  be  supported  by 
tradition,  and  by  the  discovery,  among 
the  ruins,  of  a  statue  with  which  the 
name  is  obviously  connected.  This 
statue,  now  preserved  in  the  Vatican, 
is  a  Venus  with  Cupid  at  her  feet; 
on  the  pedestal  is  an  inscription  show- 
ing that  it  was  dedicated  to  Venus  by 
Salustia,  the  wife  of  Alex.  Severus. 
The  ruin  possesses  little  interest,  and 
consists  merely  of  two  lateral  walls  of 
brick  and  a  large  niche.  Its  general 
appearance  is  rather  that  of  a  basilicli 
than  an  ancient  temple. 

Temple  of  Fenu9  Erycina,  —  In  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Barberini,  beyond 
the  Baths  of  Diocletian,  are  some  ruins 
which  are  identified  with  a  Temple  of 
Venus,  placed  by  the  Regionaries  in 
this  locality.  A  circular  chamber,  an 
adytum,  and  the  great  doorway  with 
lateral  niches  may  still  be  traced ;  but 
the  ruin  possesses  little  interest  by  the 
side  of  the  walls  of  Servius  Tullius, 
which  may  be  seen  in  the  adjacent 
grounds.  The  temple,  and  all  the 
other  buildings  which  once  adorned 
the  gardens  of  Sallust,  now  included 
within  the  grounds  of  the  Villa  Bar- 
berini, are  supposed  to  have  been 
ruined  by  Alaric,  who  entered  Rome 
by  the  Porta  Salara. 

Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  between 
the  Church  of  Santa  Franeesca  Ro- 
mana  and  the  Coliseum;  a  double 
temple,  designed  and  built  by  Hadrian, 
to  show  that  he  was  superior  as  an  ar- 
chitect to  Apollodorus,  whose  skill  in 
building  the  Forum  of  Tri^an  had  ex- 
cited the  envy  of  the  emperor.  The 
building  is  also  interesting  in  con- 
nexion with  the  fate  of  that  ^gKAl 

for  Yi\b  opViivoxv  oti  ^vi  v«tK^*^  >»»► 


K.  87.  —BOMB.  —  ^nH^Het ;  Tempiig.      fBrtf.' 


598 


giTcn,  niid  bo  pnicl  Ihe  pEnally  oitli 
hia  life.  Ths  onlj'  porlioni  of  llie 
building  now  itanding  are  the  rc- 
maini  or  the  culla  on  the  aiile  of  the 
VU  Sncni.ind  the  tiro  TBulted  niche* 
which  held  the  sitting  statues  of  the 
twa  deitic.  Cotisldpmble  frngmcnla, 
howerer.  hare  been  brought  to  light, 
which  have  enabled  a^cllitecl^t  to  trace 

menls.  It  appears  from  these  friig- 
incnts  Ihrtt  the  building  consisted  of 
two  cells.  At  each  end  was  a  [lorlico 
oT  ten  fluted  marble  columns  6  Feet  in 
diameter,  one  THciof;  the  Forum,  the 
otber  facing  the  Coliseum,  llie  cells 
joined  each  other  by  the*Bult«d  niches 
which  form  the  most  conspicuous  por- 
ing was  raised  on  a  platform  of  seven 
marble  sleiis.  360  feet  long  and  about 
ITS  feet  wide,  sumiuniled  liy  a  peri- 
style, composed  of  nearly  200  columns 
of  gicy  granite,  of  which  numerous 
fragmentMBreilillscenindllferentpirtB 
of  the  ground.  From'the  diameter 
of  these  fragments  (nearly  4  feet)  the 
columns  are  supposed  to  have  been 
nearly  40  feel  in  height.  This  colon- 
nade and  platfonn  rested  on  a  rect- 
angular hasi^ment  raised  36  feet  above 
the  level  opposite  the  Caliseiim.  The 
flank,  which  may  be  traced  from  the 
Atch  of  Titus  to  the  Meta  Sudaos, 
has  been  eomstructcd  in  plBtforms  of 
dilTerent  lengths,  so  as  to  obviate  the 
diffloulty  caused  b;  the  inequality  of 
the  ground.  The  basement  of  the 
prineipfll  front  &eing  the  Coliseum 
coniaina  at  each  end  the  remains  of 
two  Urge  staircases.  The  apertures 
in  this  basement  formerly  gave  rise  to 
■omc  controversy  as  to  their  original 
purpose,  but  they  are  now  believed  to 
be  sepulchral  vaults  eicavated  during 
the  middle  ages.  The  sqiinro  mass  in 
front  of  the  atepa  at  the  eastern  angle 
is  supposed  lo  be  the  pedestal  of  the 
coiosssl  MatueofNiTO.    ThePruaslan 


Burgess,    in  his   "  Antiquities,"  ^ 
plans  and  reatarations   of  the  whole' 
eitese  plan^  which  are 


Apollodorus,  it  was  one  oftbe  grandetc 
ediKees  of  Itome,  distinguished  by  • 
remarliBble  regularity  of  design,  and 


calculated  C 
,n  temple  thi 
las  been  preserred 


Templt  of  Vetpatiim,  on  the  Cli 
Cnpitolinui.  overlooking  the  Itomm 
Forum,  called  by  Canina  the  Templs 
of  Saturn,  by  other  Itoman  antiquariMh 
IheTemple  of  Fortune,  and  by  F 
Fiorentino  and  others  in  the  Gf 
century  the  Temple  of  CoOBord.  Thtf 
evidence  upon  which  the  title  of  For- 
tune was  given  luthe  ruin  ui  otremeljr 
slight,  and  Bunsen  has  not  hesitated 
lo  rc^Ecl  it  altogether  in  bvour  of  tha 


The 


a  rude  Ionic  portico  of  eiglit  granits 
columns  43  feet  liigb  and  13  feet   ' 
circumference,  placed  on  a  bosemt 
of  travertine.     Six  of  these  columns 
are  in  front,  and  two  are  returned  ob 
Ihair  flanks;  but  they  have  been  30 
clumsily  restored  that  the  Inlercolui 
niations  are  unequal  J  the  columns  i 
of  diBercnt  diameters,  the  moulding, 
ofthe  base  are  itreguli 


while  IT 


rble  I 


style  of  the  Ionic  oidei.      One  of  thd 
shafts  is  composed  of  fiagmenta 
badly  put  together  that  its  diarDetoi 
is  greater  under  the  capital  than  it 
iti    the  middle;    the  pediment    is 
mixture  of  briok  and 
fragmenU   taken    frai 
ings,  and  has  arclies 


the  inscriptioi 


isTTTViT.    The  resloratiou,  whenever 

look  place,  was  conducted  without 

any  regard  lo  the  principlcii  of  art' 


JPi^Ml  States.^  R.  27.  —  ROME. — Antiquities;   Theatres.        337 


molished,  and  he  mentions  having 
witnessed  the  destruction  of  the  cella 
and  many  of  the  marble  ornaments, 
lor  the  purpose  of  making  lime. 

Jhnple  of  Vegta,  a  circular  temple 
near  the  Ponte  Rotto  and  the  Temple 
of  Fort  una  Virilis,  first  consecrated 
under  the  name  of  S.  Stefano  delle 
Carrozze,  and  now  the  Church  of  S. 
Maria  del  Sole.  This  elegant  little 
temple  has  been  for  ages  the  admira- 
tion of  travellers,  and  the  numerous 
bronse  models  of  it  have  made  it  better 
knovn  than  perhaps  any  other  relic  of 
Rome.  The  name  of  Vesta  seems  to 
have  been  handed  down  by  a  very  an- 
cient tradition,  and  the  form  of  the 
building  and  perhaps  its  modern  name 
may  be  received  as  proofs  that  the 
title  is  properly  applied.  It  must  not, 
however,  be  supposed  that  this  is  the 
&mous  Temple  of  Vesta  erected  by 
Numa,  and  mentioned  by  Horace  in 
connection  with  the  inundations  of  the 
Tiber : 

■  "  Vidimus  flamm  Tlherim,  retortls 
Littore  Etrusco  violenter  undis. 
Ire  dejectum  monumenta  regum 

Templaque  Vests." 

That  celebrated  temple,  in  which 
the  Palladium  was  preserved,  was  un- 
doubtedly situated  in  the  Roman  Fo- 
rum  ;  and  the  building  now  before  us 
is  most  probably  one  of  those  which 
were  erected,  in  accordance  with  the 
institutions  of  Numa,  in  each  curia. 
It  is  generally  referred  to  the  time  of 
the  Antonines,  though  there  is  evi> 
dence  that  it  existed  in  the  time  of 
Vespasian,  one  of  whose  coins  gives  a 
representation  of  the  temple  in  its  ex- 
isting form.  It  is  probable  that  it 
was  more  than  once  rebuilt  on  the 
original  plan.  It  consists  of  a  cir- 
cular cella  surrounded  by  a  peristyle 
composed  originally  of  twenty  Corin- 
thian columns,  of  which  one  only  has 
been  lost.  The  entablature  has  en- 
tirely disappeared,  and  the  roof  has 
been  replaced  by  an  ugly  covering  of 
red  tiles.  The  ancient  portion  of  the 
cella  and  the  columns  are  of  Parian 
m  arble.  The  diameter  of  the  cella,  as 
Btated  hjr  Nibby,  is  36  feet^  the  cir- 


cumference  of  the  peristyle  156  fee 
the  diameter  of  the  columns  about  3 
feet,  and  their  height  32  feet ;  so  that 
they  contain  nearly  eleven  diameters. 
Recent  Ronj^'^  writers  have  attempted 
to  show  that  this  temple  ought  to  be 
called  the  Temple  of  Hercules:  but 
their  arguments  merely  go  to  prove 
that  there  was  a  temple  to  the  latter 
deity  in  the  Forum  Boarium,  and  they 
appear  altogether  to  lose  sight  of  the 
fact  that  there  were  several  temples  of 
Vesta,  besides  the  great  one  in  the 
Ronuin  Forum.  In  this  instance,  the 
popular  feeling  will  no  doubt  prevail} 
and  the  old  name  is  likely  to  be  pre« 
served  in  spite  of  the  local  anti- 
quaries. 

ThEATBIS  and  AMPHrrHEATRES. 

TTieatre  of  Balhvs,  erected  a.  c.  12, 
by  Cornelius  Balbus,  as  a  compliment 
to  Augustus.     It  was  the  smallest  in 
Rome,   although  it  is  said  to  have 
contained  1 1,500  spectators.    The  Pa* 
lazzo   Cenci    stands    upon    the    hill 
formed  by  the  ruins,   but  the  only 
fragment  now  visible  is  a  portion  of 
one  of  the  "  cunei,"   which  may  be 
recognised  below  the  palace  near  the 
gate  of  the  Ghetto.     In  an  adjoining 
street  is  a  ruined  arch  with  an  archi- 
trave resting  on  two  half  columns  of 
the  Doric  order,  supposed  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  crypto-porticus  oi  the 
theatre.     Near  this  the  two  colossal 
statues  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  which 
now  stand  in  the  great  square  of  the 
Capitol,  were  found  in  the  pontificate 
of  Pius  IV. 

Theatre  of  MarceBus,  the  second 
theatre  opened  in  Rome.  It  was  built 
by  Augustus,  and  dedicated  by  the 
emperor  to  the  young  Marcellus,  son 
of  his  sister  Octavia,  whose  name  he 
gave  to  that  magnificent  portico  which 
he  added  to  the  theatre  as  a  place  of 
shelter  for  the  spectators  in  unfavour* 
able  weather.  The  ruins,  though  en- 
cumbered by  the  Orsini  Palace,  and 
disfigured  by  the  dirty  shops  which 
occupy  1lV\«  ^Ltst  iXorj,  vt«  ^>S\\v\^^ 
intcre&liixf^.     TVi^  \>\x^^vu%  \%  vk^ 


poied  to  hiTC  cansuled  afth! 


Ofdiflrrci 


.Id  of  the  Orcinx  during  llie 


i  the  ujiper  oi 


rubles  of  II 


lUh  nnd   I2t 


enllrel]'  diuppeinMi,  and  of  tht)  two    luries.      There   are   few    munuments 

loircrilorieionly  elevEnarchetofescb,    with  vhich  m  tnui;  historical  Guiti 

Thit  rragmenC,  vtiich  may  be  wen  in  u  hardly  one  so  elfecluBllj  concealed 
tbe  Fiun  Montanara,  shows  that  the  hy  the  modem  building!  whicli  hare 
theatre  was  built  eitrrniillj'  of  large  risen  upon  its  ruins.  It  is  recorded  by 
blocks  of  travertine.  The  lower  Blory,  several  Latin  writers  (hat  the  opening 
DOT  half-burled  beneath  the  street,  is  of  this  new  pIscE  of  aniusement  iras 
Doriei  the  capitals  of  the  columns  regarded  by  the  older  citiiens  as  ■ 
and  the  entablature,  though  much  corruption  of  inorals;  and  that  Pom- 
mutilsted,  still  supply  tis  wilh  many  pey,  to  evatts  their  opposition,  built 
interesting  details.  The  second  story  over  the  theatre  a  temple  dedicited  to 
is  Ionic.  The  third  was  probably  Co-  Venus  Victrii,  and  pretended  that  the 
riDthinn,  but  It  has  beeo  superseded  seats  of  the  theatre  were  mere  addi- 
^ons  to  the  temple.  Tbe  plan  of 
Home,  in  the  Museum  of  the  Capitol, 
gives  us  a  very  aceursio  idea  rf  the 
furm  and  proportions  of  this  thestre, 
but  unfortunately  the  portion  wbicb 
contained  tbe  plan  of  the  portico  and 
the  basilica  is  imperfect.  The  space 
occupied  by  Hie  theatre  lies  betveen 
the  church  of  &  Andrea  della  Valle, 
the  Campo  di  Fiore,  the  Via  de'  Chiar- 
Turi,  and  the  Via  de'  Giubbonari.  The 
Falaiio  Fio  is  built  upon  the  tuina 
and  consequently  conceals  them  ;  but 
the  wroieiroular  form  of  the  thentr^ 


known  that  the  building  excited  the 
admiration  of  the  ancientsi  VltruTlus 
pmised  the  beauty,  of  tbe  whole  struc- 
ture, and  the  existing  fragment  sup- 
plied Polladio  with  the  model  fur  th 


lUimi 


L  Doric  and  Ion 


The 


Tuaa  in  the  eenti 
of  some  size,  on  which  the  Palauo 
Ocdni, formerly  the  Mas5imi,wflsbuilt 
by  Baldassare  PeruEiL  In  the  stables 
nfthe  Osteria  delta  Campana,  some  of 
the  sloping       "  


lined  the  seats,  may  still  be  seen ;  ground  by  the  sloping  vaults  of  the 
imd  there  is  no  doubt  that  many  valu-  I  seats  may  be  distinctly  traced  by  foU 
able  fragments  are  concealed  by  the    lowing  the  houses  from 


Wpid 


of  houses  bet' 
ofth«theatrE  and  the  Tiber.  It  is  said 
by  the  Regionaiies  that  the  building 
could  contain  30,000  spectators.  In 
the  deventh  century  it  was  converted 
by  Pierleone  into  a  fortress,  and  was 
■ftervarda  the  stronghold  of  the  So- 
▼ellL  From  them  it  passed  to  the 
Hanimi  and  Orsini  bmilics. 

Theatre  of  Fompry,  tbe  first  stone 
theatre  erected  in  Rome.  It  was 
built  by  Pompey  the  Great,  repaired 
by  Tiberius  and  Caligula,  injured  by 
Arc  in  the  reign  of  Titus,  and  re- 
stored by  several  of  the  later  emperors. 
It  -was  also  repaired  by  Theodorie, 
and  maj  tberc^re  be  considered  as 
"  in  tbe  middle  of  the  sixth  ceu- 
In  the  middle  ages  it  was  con- 
in  to   a  forUtsa,  and 


i.  M.  della  Grn 
e-  Satiri 


I  Pin  (a  ti 


ibe 


the 


vaults  of  tbe  Faioiio  Pio  some  archet 
and  fragments  of  massive  walls  may 
be  esamined  i  1ml  it  is  greatly  to  bd 
regretted  that  so  liitle  of  a  building 
of  such  peculiar  interest  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  Roman  people  is  aeees- 
»ble.'  In  front  of  the  theatre,  ex- 
tending in  the  direction  of  the  modertl 
Teatro  della  Valle,  was  the  fbmOUI 
portico  of  100  columns,  celebrated  by' 
many  of  the  poets,  adorned  with  punt- 
ings,  statues,  and  plantations,  and  con- 
taining a  Basilica  or  Regia.  In  Ibi* 
portico  Brutus  is  said  by  Appian  to 
have  sat  in  judgment  as  prslor  on  the 
morning  of  Ciesar'a  death.  Close  to 
ItheAeaWe-wasftia  vnetoatilile  Curioi, 
lor  BentttE-boaBe,ui  w^ftoVi 


Pe^Staiet.1     n.  27.  — boue, — Antiqmtitis   Coliseum.       339 


ciaipn't  itati 


It 


stUed  « 


The  oelebnted  lUtoCi  veU  knoirn  u 
the  ^sds  Fompey,  vu  fbuad  in  the 
Vieolo  de'  LcuUii,  neu  tha  Cancel- 
laiia,  in  1553.  We  knaw  from  Sue- 
tonliu  that  it  vu  remoTed  by  AugusluB 
from  tbe  Curia,  Bad  placed  before  tbe 
bauJica  on  ■  marble  Janus.  Tbe  spot 
wbere  it  vas  di>co«ered  coireKpondi 
precisely  witb  tbe  position  indicated 
b;  tbe  deHjriplion  of  Suetonius,  Tbe 
statue  a  well  known  as  tlie  cbief  trea- 
aute  of  tbe  Spada  Palace,  and  is  de- 
scribed in  detail  in  our  account  of  that 
building.  Among  tbe  historical  facts 
connected  witb  Ibit  tbeatre,  Auliu 
Gelliiu    mentions    the    grammatical 


quetl 


n  whici 


iiMCTiption  for  tbe  tempter  whetber  the 
tbird  consulate  of  Pompey"  should  be 
expressed  by  an,  ttrtium  or  trrlio.  The 
learned  men  consulted  on  tbe  point 
were  divided  in  opinion,  and  Cicero, 
vitbout  meeting  ihe  question,  tug- 
geeled  tbat  the  difficulty  should  be 
artutted  by  writing  cm,  lerL  Sub.w- 
quent  graniDiarians  seem  to  bate  in- 

it  written  on  Ihe  portico  of  tbe  Pan- 
theon. 

Colimiii.  ^  There  is  no  monument 

cngrsTcrs  haie  made  so  familiar  to 
reader*  of  all  classes  as  the  Coliseum ; 
Uul  tliere  is  certainly  none  of  which 
tbe  descriptions  and  drawings  are  so 
br  surpassed  by  the  reality.  We  shall 
not  anempt  to  anticipate  the  feelings 
of  tbe  Irareller,  or  obtrude  upon  bini 
a  nngle  word  wbieb  may  interfere 
with  his  own  impressions,  but  simply 
supply  him  witli  sucb  facts  as  may  be 
useful  in  his  eiaminatioti  of  the  ruin. 
He  amphitheatre  was  founded  by 
Vetpasian,  x.  n.  Ti,  and  completed  by 
Titus  in  his  eighth  consulate,  x.  d.  BO, 
ten  years  after  the  destruction  of  Jcru- 

Ihat  it  was  designed  by  Gaudentiut,  a 
Christian  architect  and  martyr,  and 
that  man*  Ihouaand  ciptiie  Jewi 
wcw  auplojitl  in    '' 


additions  from 
the  later  emperors,  and  was  altered  ' 
and  repaired  at  various  times  until  tbe 
beginning  of  the  sixth  century.  The 
gladiatorial  spectBclei  of  which  it  was 
the  seena  for  nearly  400  years  are 
matters  of  history,  and  it  is  not  neces* 
sary  to  dwell  upon  them  further  thai) 
to  state  that  at  tbe  dedication  oF  tbe 
building  b;y  Titus,  5000  wild  beasU 
were  slain  in  tbe  arena,  and  the  game* 
in  honour  of  Ihe  event  lasted  for  nearly 
100  days.  The  gladiatorial  combat* 
were  abolished  by  Honorius.  A  show 
of  wild  beasts,  which  took  place  in 
thereign  of  Tbeodoric,andabull  light 
which  took  place  at  the'cxpense  of 
the  Roman  noble*  in  133S,  are  the 
last  exhibitions  of  which  history  baa 
left  us  any  record.  During  the  Chris, 
tian  persecutions  the  amphitheatre 
ws*  the  Kene  of  fearful  barbarities. 
In  tbe  reign  of  Trajan,  St.  Ignatius 
was  brought  from  Antioch  purposely 
to  be  devoured  by  the  wild  beasts  of 
the  Coliseum ;  and  the  traditions  of 
the  Church  are  filled  with  the  names 
of  martyr*  who  perished  in  the  arena. 
The  building  was  originally  called  tbe 
Flavitm  Anphitheatrt  in  honour  of  it* 
founders,  and  the  first  mention  of  the 
name  Coliseum  occur*  in  the  frag- 
ment* of  Ihe  Venerable  Bede,  who 
records  the  famous  prophecy  of  Ihe 
Anglo-Saion  pilgrinu: 

When  Mil  the  CoUhuib,  Rome  ihatl  fall  i 
And  vhen  Rome  &ll(,  the  wocld," 
This  prophecy  is  generally  regaideij 
as  a  proof  that  the  amphitheatre  waa 
tolerably  perfect  in  the  eighth  cen- 
tury. Nearly  all  tbe  authorities  agree 
that  two-thirds  of  the  original  build- 
ing have  Mitirely  disa  '      "" 


nilhern 


sup- 


posed to  have  perished  during  the 
siege  of  Robert  Guiicard,  who  showed 
as  little  reverence  for  the  tnmumenta 
of  Bone  as  be  did  for  the  temple*  of 
Pntum.  We  have  atrewly  aeen  that 
after  tbe  ruin  had  been  converted  ivita 
a  loTtieu  in  Am  in\A.SVe  «i*^  'v^  vw^- 
'  pUcd  tt)o  Kotnan  "pvatc*  tat  ™»»M 


340        RooTB  27. — BOMB. — AiOiqttitiea ;  CkSaetim.   {SftctB 

SOO  years  with  maturjiils  Tor  ihe'ir  '  eighij  archei.  The  (int  tii 
PrImc!!,  ■lid  thai  the  paUce  of  SI.  j  Doric  order,  and  ia  nearly  thirty  fbet 
Mark,  tile  Farnese,  nod  the  Barbcrini  ^  high  ;  the  ■ccond  ig  Ionic,  aboal 
pabce*  Tare  entirely  built  Trom  iti  i  thirty-dghC  feet  high  j  the  tUrd  i> 
ruiiu  (Page  314).  After  these  Hpali-  Corinthian,  of  the  same  height ;  and 
■tUHU  ll>e  pope*  appear  to  have  been  i  the  fourth,  alia  Corinthian,  iatiirtf- 
■DXiaui  to  turn  the  ruin  to  some  pro.  Tour  feet  high.  Above  Ihix  ma  an 
Stable  purpose.  Siitui  V.  endea- |  atlic.  At  tlie  summit  of  the  narthern 
TOured  to  tranifbrm  it  into  s  woollen  ,  side  many  of  the  consolea  which  pro* 
DUDubctOTy,  and  employed  Fontana  jeeted  in  order  to  support  thepulei  of 
to  design  a  plan  for  inverting  the  ar-  I  the  vetariviB,  or  awning,  itill  remain. 
cades  into  ihops  i  but  thi-  scheme  en-  The  height  of  Che  outer  wall  is  stated 
tirely  biled,  and  was  abandoned  after  by  Taylor  and  Cresy  to  be  157  Eit- 
it  bad  cost  the  pope  15,000  >cudi.  I  glish  feet;  the  major  axis  of  the 
Clement  XI.,  acentury  later,  inclosed  I  building,  including  the  thickness  of 
the   lower  arcades,  and  established   a    the  walls,  is  620  feet;  the  minor  axi^ 


manufactory  of  laltpett 
luccesi.  To  preyenl  further  encroach- 
ments, Benedict  XIV..  in  1750,  con- 
aeoralcd  Ibe  building  to  the  memory 
of  the  Christian  martyrs  who  had  pe- 
tished  in  it.  The  French  cleared  the 
porticos  and  remoTed  from  the  arena 
the  rubbish  which  had  accumulated 
fcr  centuries.  Pius  VII.  built  the 
wall  which  now  supports  the  south- 
western angle,  a  fine  specimen  of  mo- 
dern construction  ;  and  his  guccesKirs 
bar*  liberally  contributed  towards  the 
preaenation  of  the  fabiic  A  cross 
sow  itandsin  the  middle  of  the  arena, 
promising  for  every  kiss  an  indulgence 
ofaOOdays:  and  fourteen  statues  of 
Our  Lord's  Passion  are  placed  at  re- 
gular intervals  around  it.  In  the  rude 
pulpit  a  monk  preaches  erery  Friday, 

pressed  with  the  solemnity  of  a  Chris- 

ieA   with    the   early   history    of  our 

"ITie  amphitheatre  is  built  princi- 
pally of  travertine,  though  Inr^e  masses 
of  brick- work  and  tula  arc  to  be  seen 
in  different  parts  of  the  interior.  Its 
Ibnn,    u    usual,    is   elliptical.       The 


The  length  of  the  ari 
feet,  the  width  I  SO  feet.  The  super- 
fieial  area,  on  the  same  anthority,  ii 
lysixacres.  Hiearehcswerenuni- 
bered  from  i.  to  lxh.,  as  may  still  be 
seen  on  the  north  * '  — 
those  numbered  3S 
facing  the  Esquiline  i 
number  nor  cornice :  it  is  wider  than 
the  others,  and  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  entrance  of  the  emperor. 
On  the  opposite  or  southern  aide 
there  was  a  corresponding  entrance 
from  the  Palatine,  with, 
passage,  still  visible.  This  passage  was 
constructed  by  Commodus,  wlio  nar- 

stale  eiiltances  fur  the  solemn  proces- 

jor  aiis.  In  the  itUerior  the  centre  i>  of 
course  occupied  by  the  arena.  Around 
this  were  arranged,  upon  walls  gradu* 
ally  sloping  down  towards  the  centre, 
the  seals  for  the  specUtars.  There 
correspond- 


wilh    tlie    four 


posed  of  arches   supported  by 
faced  with  halfcolumns.and  the  f 
ia  a   solid   wall  faced  with  pilasters, 
and  pierced  in  the  alternnte  compart-l  carro, 
jneo^s  witZi /brtj' square  windows.  Inlas  ma; 
^eh   of  tbe  lover  Iier»  thsre  -weiai  wbieVi 


The  first  story  was  composed  of  three 
circular  porticos.  At  the  base 
rounding  the  arena  was  the  Podi 
kind  of  covered  gallery,  thirtccD  feet 
high  and  fourteen  feet  broad,  on  » 
the  emperor,  the  senators,  and  the 
vestal  virgins  had  their  seats.  A ' 
this,  and  separated  from  it  by  a 

orders  of  seats  called  Ibe 
an  attic  or  roofed  gallery. 


B  WMmg  la    le^t^SHttsi. 


Pt^itU  Stata.2    R.  27. — ROME. — Antiqttitiet;   Colueum.      Sil 

ind  dirk  In  the  Uuc  nldnliht,  and  Ilia 


The  Jlrtt  order  i>  supposed  to  bave  ' 
eontnined  twentj-Ibur  toitb  oF  eeatt: 
it  termiiuCed  in  a  kind  of  lindmg- 
pUce,   &om    vhich    rose   the   lecoiil 

KftU.  A  lofty  wall,  pirt  (>r*bich  Bt[11 
eiiits,  lepanted  this  from  the  third  , 
order,  and  i«  supposed  to  have  been 
the  line  of  demarcBtion  between  the 
"  Senalua  Populuique  Romaniia  "  and 
the  plebeians.  Above  the  third  order 
wu  the  attic  and  the  covered  gallcrj, 
already  mentioited,  both  of  which 
have  entirely  disappeared.  The  Re- 
gioaaries  state  that  the  amphitheatre 
wouldtt>ntiinBT,000  spectators.  The 
floor  of  the  arena  (probably  of  wood) 
retted  on  tbIIb,  fbmiing  four  rows  . 
of  imall  cells,  in  which  the  wild  beasts 
were  doubtless  confined.  A  stdiresse 
halheen  made  near  the  old  Hermitage,  I 
by  which  visitors  may  ascend  to  the  '. 
upper  stories,  and  froni  thence  as  high  i 
UtheparapeL  During  the  ascent  they 
will  traverse  the  ambularia  and  gaU 
Icriea,  and  will  thus  be  enabled  to  form  I 
•  better  idea  of  the  whole  Tabric  than 
they  could  do  (Tom  pages  nr  descrip- 
tion. At  the  summit  they  will  oh- 
lerve  fragments  of  coTumna,  cornices, 
&e.,  built  up  in  the  walls,  as  if  the 
Upper  portions  had  been  hastily  finish- 
ed with  materials  originally  destined 
for  other  purposes.  Some  of  this 
upper  part  was  destroyed  by  the  Re- 
ptiblinui  triumvirate  in  1819,  under 
the  same  pretext  which  Ifd  to  the  de. 
nlation  of  the  Villa  Borghese.  and 
of  other  places  which  interfered  with 
tbeir  plans  for  the  defence  of  Rome 
■gainst  the  French.  The  scene  from 
the  sammil  is  one  of  the  most  impres- 
tiie  in  the  world,  and  there  are  few 
travellers  who  do  not  visit  the  spot  by 
moonlight  in  order  to  realise  the  mag> 
niBcent  description  in  "  Manfred."  the 
only  description  which  has  ever  done 
Justice  to  the  wonders  of  the   Coli- 


iteTreUci  afl^lBlg^HJ  Rarac) 


ay'dtteVDad  the  Tiber;  and 
Dutttae  CBiar's  palace  cana 
Tha  osl'i  tone  cry,  and.  Interruptedly, 
OTdlitant  sentliicla  the  llinil  tang 
Begun  and  died  upcolha  (tinl*  wind. 

Within  a  bowshu  vhem  tiM  CwHn  dwell, 
A  (TOTc  which  ipilngi  througli  !e»ll'd 
And  Iwinn  lu  nisti  with  the  Imperial 


Oui  i^rili  ma  their  umi." 
Considerable  speculation  has  been  oc- 
casioned by  the  holes  which  are  seen 
in  the  exterior  wall  of  the  building, 
and  many  learned  treatises  have  been 
written  on  the  subject.  Nibby  ststea 
that  they  were  made  duringthe  middle 
o^es  in  eitracling  the  iron  cralnpa 
'. hich  bound  the  stones  together; 
and  the  Ahb£  Barthelemi  mentions 
that  he  found  some  fragments  of  iron 
<:till  remaining  in  them.     This  state- 

of  the  older  antiquaries,  who  supposed 
that  tbey  were  made  to  receive  tho 
[lules  of  the  booths  erected  in  the  cor- 
ridors during  the  &irs  which  were 
held  there.  Among  the  nuineroua 
dissertations  to  which  the  Coliseum 
has  given  rise,  is  one  of  higher  Interest 
than  the  disputes  of  the  anliquaries, 

I the  quarto  volume  of  Ftofeasor  Se- 

'  bastiani,  entitled  the  Fhra  Cofiiea,  in 
I  which  he  enumerate!  260  ipeeiet  of 
plants  found  among  (he  ruins.  Nearl; 
'  a  fbuTlh  of  tire  <W.\T«.  mHtSata  m* 
'  papi\tottac«a  ■,  ftie  cr3\Wn,M&^'«^* 
lupaWse  ^vw^otftiKH*  ft*'««>*^ 


E 


u47 HOME. — AnHyuiHesi  AmphiAealreg,    ^Sert.*!:  ' 


With  >uch  n 


>riiil^  Fur  t 
rWng  (! 


Tj". 


□f  Ibe   Coli- 


RomBDi  do  not  mikc  complete  col>  /ttHphlthmtrTU 
lemioiu  fiir  tdr,  on  the  pUn  of  the  the  Poita  S.  Gio' 
Sirns  ht-rbsria  ;  wo  cannot  imagine  Mapgiore,  and  o 
■117  memorUI  of  the  Culiseum  which  of  Santa  Crocu  in  CcruBnIetnnie,  ire 
would  be  raoie  acwptable  lu  the  (re-  the  remaiiii  of  this  amphitheatre,  eon- 
Teller,  I  Etructed  far  the  Bmusenient  of  the 
Close  to  the  Coliseum  is  the  ruin  of  troops.  Its  precise  ilal 
■"   was  prubably  a 


W: 


lal  founUin  cair«i  the  JIfci 
ed  on  importsnt 
idogeof the  amphilhealrp.  Il  ap- 
been  n  simple  jet  issuing 
placed  in  the  eentre  of  a 
rk  basin,  SO  feet  in  diameter.  It 
rebuilt  by  Domitian,  and  ii  sup- 
posed lo  hare  been  intended  for  the 
tise  of  tlie  gladiators,  after  the  labours 
of  the  arena.  It  is  represented  on 
several  medals  of  the  amphitlieatre,  of 
the  time  of  Vespasian,  'filus.  Alei- 
mnder  Sererus,  &c.  The  faimlain  was 
eenslrucled  of  brick- wotlt,  in  the  best 
style  ;  the  ceulral  cavity  and  the  chan- 
nels for  carrying  off  the  water  are  still 
risible.  Il  was  repaired  a  few  years 
since,  but  these  modem  restorations 
may  easily  be  dintinguished  liom  (he 
ancient  work.  Two  other  objects  con- 
nected with  the  games  of  the  amphi- 
theatre, the  Vivarium  and  the  Spolia- 
rium,  are  described  at  page  57 


if  out 


fcond  century 
?ia.  It  is  built  entirely  of 
During  the  reign  of  HoHO- 
f  of  the  sides  was  employed 
s  part  of  the  new  wslls;  On 
lide  we  see  (he  arches  of  tllv 
er  Riled  up ;  but  the  half- 
oFthe  Corinthian  order,  with 


ittle  remains  of  the  s 
iside  eihibils  little  h 


:ondn 


.The 


if  the  greatest  alls  of  the  ellipse. 

'ered,   with  an  Egyptian 

innrhle,  which  show  that  the  building 
WHS  richly  decorsfed. 

Circvi  Masimia,  in  the  hollow  be- 
tween the  Palatine  and  the  Aventine, 
which  had  already  become  celebrated 
as  the  scene  oFthe  Sabine  rape.  This 
fiutiDUS  circus  wm  (bonded  by  Tar- 


I  the  Meta  Sudans, '  quiniua  Priscus.  restored  with 
and  under  the  wall  of  the  Temple  derabic  additions  during  the  republic 
of  Venus  and  Rome,  are  the  remains  end  rebuilt  with  unusnd  splendour  b7 
of  a  pedestal  upon  which  the  cele- !  Julius  Cssar.  Augustus  embelliabad 
broted  CWoiiHi  of  Niro  b  supposed  !  it,anderectedon  the  Spina  the  obdisk 
to  have  stood.  which  we  now  see  in  the  Piozaa  del 

AmphUhailTeafSlamiia  TI.Mnu.nDw  ;  Popolo.     The  circus  was  burnt  in  the 

the  Moute  Cilorio There  appears  to  [  Gre  of  Nero,  and  restored  by  Veipavan 

have  heennodouhtamongthe  Roman  andTrajan.  Constantine  enlarged  and 
anti<ju»ries  that  the  Monte  Citorio  is  decorated  it,  and  his  sun  Cunatantiai 
one  oF  the  many  artificial  hills  which  '  erected  a  second  obelisk  on  the  Spina, 
we  meet  with  in  difiFerent  parts  of  the '  the  same  which  we  now  see  in  front  of 
eityi  andthe  diseOTcry  ofsometnasses  St.  John  Lateran.  Theodorio  made 
of  brick-work  still  letainiog  the  Form  |  the  lost  attempt  to  restore  the  cireiia 
»F  "  cunei,"  in  laying  the  foundation  to  its  former  splendour,  and  alter  Ilia 
of  the  palace  of  Innocent  X.,  has  been  '  time  it  fcll  rapidly  into  ruin.  Dio- 
eonaidered  to  prove  conclusively  that '  nysius  dcwribes  the  circus  as  he  saw 
the  hill  has  arisen  on  the  ruins  of  this  I  it  aFiei  its  reconstruction  by  Juliua 
»m/itii theatre.  It  was  finiahod  in  the  Casar  ;  he  gives  the  length  as  3187 
/barth  consulate  ofAuguslusi  butltlleet,  and  the  breadth  as  9e0(eet.   The 

xeems,  from   the  silence  of  the  T.Blin\eitOMiX  cS  *ie  s 

writers,  to  have  beea  soon  eclipsed  bj  \TVte  ^onv 


a  SXa  feet. 


JPqpo/ iSfti^.]   R.  27. — ROME. — ArUiqmties;  Circuses.        S43 


attics  accommodated  150,000  persons;    Nibby.     The  outer  wall  is  nearly  en- 


and  the  whole  number  of  seats  was 
probably  not  less  than  200,000.  The 
end  nearest  the  Tiber  was  straight, 
and  occupied  by  the  earceres,  under 
which  the  chariots  stood  before  they 
started  for  the  race.  The  other  end, 
towards  the  south-east,  was  curved. 
It  was  surrounded  by  the  porticos  and 
seats  for  the  spectators.  At  this  ex- 
tremity  are  the  only  remains  now  visi- 
ble. They  consist  of  shapeless  masses 
of  brick- work,  which  still  show  the 
direction  of  the  curve,  but  are  too  con- 
fused and  imperfect  to  allow  of  any 
detailed  description.  The  first  meta  is 
supposed  to  have  been  nearly  opposite 
the  Jewish  burial-ground,  and  the 
foundations  of  the  Carceres  are  pro- 
bably concealed  by  the  church  of  S. 
Maria  in  Cosmedin.  The  little  stream 
called  the  Maranna,  the  Aqua  Crcdnra, 
runs  through  the  circus  in  its  passage 
to  the  Tiber.  In  the  first  French 
edition  of  Vasi*s  '*  Itin^raire,"  pub- 
lished at  Rome  in  1773,  a  very  curious 
and  now  rare  work,  are  two  plates  of 
the  Circus  Maximus,  drawn  by  Vasi  .- 
one  giving  a  restored  view  of  the  circus 
from  the  descriptions  of  the  Latin 
writers,  the  other  representing  the 
valley  as  it  was  seen  in  the  last  century, 
with  the  two  prostrate  obelisks  in  the 
centre,  and  the  stately  ruins  of  the 
Palace  of  the  Caesars  in  the  back- 
ground. 

CircuM  of  Romulus  or  MaxenHus, 
formerly  called  the  Circus  of  CaraeaBa, 
situated  outside  the  Porta  San  Sebas- 
tiano  on  the  road  to  the  tomb  of  Caeci- 
lia  Metella. — The  name  of  the  Circus 
of  Caracalla  was  given  to  these  ruins 
without  a  shadow  of  authority,  and 
was  exploded  by  the  discovery  of  three 
inscriptions  in  1825,  recording  that 
the  circus  was  erected  to  Romulus,  the 
son  of  Maxentius,  a.  d.  311.  This  is 
the  most  perfect  circus  which  has  been 
preserved  to  us,  and  is  therefore  the 
most  convenient  place  for  studying 
the  general  arrangement  of  these 
structures.  It  presents  an  oblong, 
IS80  fWtin  length  and  1^60  in  breadth, 
according  to  tfae    measurements   of\T.  divi 


tire;  on  the  inner  side,  a  terrace  has. 
been  formed  by  the  fall  of  the  seats. 
The  vault  is  constructed  of  brick  and 
email  stones,  inclosing  large  earthen 
vases,  introduced  to  lighten  the  build- 
ing. At  one  end  of  the  circus  are  the 
Carceres  for  the  chariots,  six  on  each 
side  of  the  principal  entrance,  flanked 
by  two  towers,  supposed  to  have  been 
the  seats  of  the  umpires.  At  the  other 
end,  which  is  semicircular  as  usual, 
is  a  great  gateway  with  a  flight  of 
steps  outside.  Two  other  entrances 
may  be  traced  near  the  Carceres,  and 
a  fourth  in  the  south-west  angle.  On 
the  east  side  of  the  circus  is  a  balcony, 
or  pulvinar,  supposed  to  have  been  the 
station  of  the  emperor,  and  nearly 
opposite  are  some  remains  of  a  cor- 
responding building  whence  the  prizes 
were  probably  distributed.  The  Spina 
may  be  traced  throughout  its  whole 
length ;  it  is  not  in  the  middle  of  the 
arena,  but  runs  obliquely,  being  at  its 
commencement  about  36  feet  nearer 
the  eastern  than  the  western  side.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  892  feet  long, 
20  feet  broad,  and  from  2  to  5  feet 
high.  It  was  decorated  with  various 
works  of  art ;  among  which  was  the 
obelisk  now  standing  in  the  Piazza 
Navona.  At  each  extremity  of  the 
Spina,  an  eminence,  on  which  the 
Meta  stood,  may  be  recognised.  In 
1 825  the  greater  part  of  this  circus 
was  excavated  by  the  Duke  of  Brae- 
ciano.  During  these  works,  the  Spina, 
the  Carceres,  the  Great  Gateway,  &c 
were  brought  to  light,  together  with 
many  fragments  of  statues  and  bas- 
reliefs.  The  most  valuable  fragments 
discovered  were  the  three  inscriptions 
already  mentioned  ;  all  of  them  bore 
the  name  of  Maxentius.  The  follow- 
ing, which  is  the  most  perfect,  has 
been  placeid  over  the  great  entrance ; 
it  states  that  the  circus  was  consecrated 
to  Romulus,  son  of  Maxentius,  and 
records  the  fact  that  he  had  twice 
been  consul :  divo  .  romvlo  .  n.  m.  f . 
cos  .  ORD.  II.  riuo .  n.  n.  MjixaKru « 

IMVICT.  NIW  ,  1.1  •  '^"lA'e.   WN<^,  ^^'WSIV  « 


IH4        ROUTES?. — ROME. — Antiquities;  Cuilumm.    ^Seet'I 

>M  •  ik\aiiiiu      The  circular  temple  rio.  in  tbe  hoii«e  of  tlie  Mission,  not 

■djnrning  is  ■  reinirkabli!  ruin  ;  it  is  Tar  frDin  tbe  spot  where  the  meridian 

<lv«n1>ed  under  its  proper  head,  ha  tbe  obeli'ik  waa  found-     It  was  deatroyed 

"  Tmnplcof  Ramulus"  (p.  S3.1,)  toon  alVer  its  discovery.      Tbe  shaft 

CircHi  AgoaaUt,  or  Alexandri,  built  was  a  single  piece  of  red  granite  6S 

br  the  emperor  Aletsndrr  Seierua,  i«  palms  high.     Fontana  was  employed 

ejearly    identified    witb    the    modem  by  Clement  XI.  to  raise  it,  but  Iba 

Piaiia  Navana,  which  still  preserves  attempt  being  unsuccesitul,   the  co- 

tbe  outline  or  the  circun.  and  ercn  Ibc  lumn  wu  used  to  repair  ihe  obclitka 

elliptical  end.     Ji  is  called  by  Urlicha  creeled  by  Pius  VI.      The  pedestal 

(be  Stadium  of  Domiliwi.      It  isabuut  was  taken  to  the  gardens  of  the  Vali- 

timet  used  for  chariot  races.  ornamented    with    some    alto-relielij 

The  Circiv  of  Flera  a  supposed  to  representing  funeral  games   and  Ihe 

hare  occupied  the  site  of  the  PUin  apothmiisof  Antuninusand  Fauatina. 

Birlierini.    The  Ci'rcai  Flaminiu,  has  lliG  following  is  the  inscription :  — 

when  Ibe  foundatiom  of  Ihe  Palauo  riLti. 

Mattei  were    laid.      The  circus  was         CiJh«ui  gf  Marciu  AHrrliia  Animii- 

long  used  as    a   rope-walk,  and  the  niu,  commonly  called  the   Antouuie 

church   of   S.    Caterina   de'    Funaii,  Column,    in  the  Pie:za  Coloona,  to 

whose  name  preserves  a  memorial  of  wbicb  it  gives  its  name.    Thi>  column 

the  Cict,  is  supposed  to  stand  nearly  was  long  confounded  with  the  piUak 

on  the  middle  of  Ihe  aremi.  reprewnti^d  on  the  coins  of  Antoni,- 

the  Apallinarii,  wis  siluited  outside  petuated  by  ati  inscription  plwed 
the  ancient  Porta  Collina,  near  the  upon  lis  base  when  Si«tas  V.  restored 
Templeof  Venui  Erycina.      Its  form    it  in    the    IGth  century.      The   di«> 

Quirinal  and  Pincian,  but  nothing  Monte  Cilotjo  in  1709  removed  sU 
more  than  the  outline  is  visible.  The  doubt  on  the  subject,  and  the  present 
obelisk  which  now  stands  belbre  the  column  is  nnir  known  to  be  tb*t 
THoili  de'  Monti  was  found  in  this  erected  to  Marcus  Aurelios  by  ths 
cireu).  {  Senate  and  Roman  people.  A.  D.  174i 

llie  Cireui  af  Nero,  partiv  covered  It  is  an  inferior  copy  of  the  biatoricd 
by  the  buildings  of  St.  Peter's,  was  pillar  of  Trajan.  It  exhibits  the  sam 
destroyed  by  Constantine.  when  he  miitureof  orders:  the bas-relie(b  aun- 
began  the  old  badlica,  in  the  fourth  '  round  the  shaft  in  a  spiral  of  similu 

tradition  to  have  been  the  scene  of  and  eieculion,  and  the  proportions  rf 
many  Christian  martyrdoina.  Tbe  the  column  and  its  parts  are  in  manT 
obeliiK  now  in  from  of  Sl  Peter's ,  respects  defective.  The  bas-reli^ 
stood  upon  its  Spina.  In  the  mea-  ,  represent  the  conquests  of  tbe  Mar- 
dows  behind  the  Castle  of  SI.  Angela  i  comannic  wars  ;  they  are  more  pro- 
Bome  remains  of  another  circus,  sup.  minent  than  those  of  Trajan,  and 
powd  to  be  the  Circus  of  Hadrim,  exhibit  nearly  the  same  amount  of 
were  discovered  m  the  last  century  ; '  battles  and  military  manofuvres.  One 
bultheeieavationsweresulisequcntly  of  the  relieft  has  attracted  consider- 
611ed  UD.  I  able  attention  from  its  presumed  con- 

li  the  legion  composed  of 
n  Mylilene.      It  repre- 


CotUMJ 


CbiHmH    of    AntanUHt    Pi<a,    dU- ■  senW  3m?\<oh„ „      ... 

jivredia  1709  oa  the   Monte  CiW-\MVrog  ftom.  Vi\s  o-nsKa^ 


Papat  SiaiesJ]   r.  27* -—Rome. — Antiquities;  Columns,       34$ 


and  is  regarded  as  a  version  of  the 
story  related  by  Eusebius,  who  states 
that  the  army  was  reduced  to  great 
distress  for  want  of  water,  and  that 
the  devotional  practices  of  the  Chris- 
tian legion  induced  the  emperor  to 
request  them  to  pray  for  rain.    Their 
prayers  were  successful,  and  the  Chris- 
tians bad  the  merit  of  saving  the  army 
by  their  piety.     A  letter  is  given  in 
Justin  Martyr,  in  which  the  emperor 
acknowledges  the  fact;  but  the  au- 
thenticity of  this  document  is  open  to 
suspicion,  although  the  Church  has 
always  upheld  the  tradition,  and  the 
sculpture  has    been   regarded    with 
peculiar  interest  by  most  ecclesiastical 
historians.     The  pedestal  of  the  co- 
lunm  was  added  by  Fontana,  and  is 
not  well   proportioned  to  the  shaft. 
The  height  of  the  entire  column,  ac- 
cording to  Lumisden,  is  1S22  feet  8 
inches,  including  the  base :  the  shaft 
being  97  feet,  the  pedestal  25  feet  8 
inches.      In  his  very  able  work  illus- 
trative of  this  column,  Santo  Bartoli 
gives  the  height  from  the  ground  to 
the  balustrade  at  168  feet ;  the  dia- 
meter 11^  feet.     The  column  is  com- 
posed of  twenty-eight  pieces  of  white 
marble.     On  the  summit  is  a  statue 
of  St.  Paul,  10  feet  high,  placed  there 
by    Sixtus  V.      The  interior  is  as- 
cended by  190  steps,  and  is  lighted 
by   42  loopholes.     Tlie  column  has 
frequently  suffered  by  lightning,  at- 
tracted, it  is  said,   by  the  point  of 
St  Paul*s   sword.       It   is   supposed 
that  the  column  stood^  the  midst 
ot  a  forum  containing  tne  Temple  of 
Antoninus,  which  now  forms  the  front 
of  the  Papal  custom-house  (p.  325). 
Column  of  C  Duiliusy  the   ConavJy 
the  second  column  erected  in  the  Ro- 
man   Forum,    to   commemorate    the 
victory  of  Duilius  over  the  Cartha- 
ginian fleet,  B.  c.  259.    Although  this 
column  has  disappeared,   its  general 
form  and  appearance  are  well  known 
from  ancient  medals;  a  fragment  of 
the   inscription   has  also   been   pre- 
served and   embodied   in  the    well- 
known   Rostra]  column  of  Michael 
Angela  Mt  th€  iboC  of  the  staircase  in 


the  Palazzo  de*  Conservatori,  which 
is  an  exact  representation  of  the  ori- 
ginal as  found  on  medals.     The  in- 
scription   has  been   more    learnedly 
illustrated    than    almost    any    other 
fragment  in  Rome;  it  was  found  in 
the  16th  century  near   the   arch  of 
Septimius    Severus.       ft  is  cut   on 
marble  —  a  fact  which,  taken  in  con- 
junction with  the  form  and  execution 
of  the  letters,  and  the  orthography  of 
several  of  the  words,  would  seem  to 
favour  the  belief  that  it  b  not  the 
original  inscription,  but  a  restoration 
of  imperial  times.     Without  entering 
minutely  into  the  arguments  in  sup- 
port of  this  opinion,  it  wiH  be  suffi- 
cient to  state  that  the  learned  Spanish 
antiquary  and  scholar  Peter  Ciacco- 
nius,  who  restored  the  reading,  decided 
against   its   claims   as   a    republican 
work.  There  appears,  however,  to  be 
no  doubt  that  it  was  afac'simile.   The 
notation,  the  use  of  the  double  D  to 
signify  a  thousand,  and  the  particu- 
lars of  the  naval  victory  which  it  com- 
memorates, all  combine  to  make  the 
inscription  a  highly  interesting  relic. 
Column  of  Pho&is.  —  Prior  to  the 
year  1813  this  column  had  baffled  all 
the  conjectures  of  the  antiquaries,  and 
Lord  Byron  says  — 

'*  Tully  was  not  lo  eloquent  as  thou, 
Thou  nameless  column  with  a  buried  k)ase.** 

In  the  year  just  mentioned  the  co- 
lumn was  excavated  to  the  pedestal, 
when  an  inscription  was  found  prov- 
ing that  it  was  erected  to  the  emperor 
Phocasby  Smaragdus,  exarch  of  Italy, 
A.  D.  608.  The  name  of  Phocas  had 
been  erased  by  Heraclius,  but  that  of 
Smaragdus  and  the  date  prove  that 
the  column  was  dedicated  to  him. 
The  pedestal  is  placed  on  a  flight  of 
steps  discovered  in  18 16,  during  the 
excavations  made  at  the  cost  of  the 
Duchess  of  Devonshire ;  the  con- 
struction of  the  steps  indicates  the 
lowest  style  of  art,  and  leaves  no 
doubt  that  the  column  was  taken  from 
some  ancient  edifice.  The  shaft  is 
composed  of  eight  pieces  of  G\«^ 

was  fonaetV^  iwroowiXft^Vj  ^  ^^ 


f 


%46         nonTB97.— HOME. — AtiHqrdties;  Cofunau.  [Sect  I. 

•Mtue  of  the  emperor.  At  the  bme  '  graved  in  De"  Roui's  work  entitled 
•re  tame  remains  of  other  bonorarjr  "  Culonn*  Tnyans  disegnsla."  The 
eulumns,  the  names  of  which  ore  eu-  lutureorthc  iculpturesvill  be  liettcr 
lintly  unknown.  I  appreciated  by  Ihe  simple  fact  that 

CbIhmii  of  Ttajan,  the  most  lioauli-  the]'  contain  no  less  than  2500  hunun 
fill  historical  eolumn  in  (he  wnrld,  ^  figures,  besides  a  large  aumlier  of 
dadkatedi  as  Ibc  inKciiption  tells  us.  honea,  furttears,  S:c.,  than  hy  tsxj 
to  Ihe  honour  of  the  emperor  by  the  minute  description.  In  the  interior 
Senateonit  Koman  people(*.  n.  114]^  ii  a  spiral  staircase  of  114  steps, 
Foi  seventeen  centuri»  this  noble  co-  lighted  bj  42  loopholes,  and  leading 
lumn  has  been  regarded  aa  a  triumph  to  the  suinmit,  on  which  stood  a 
of  art;  and  lliere  can  be  no  doubt  colossal  statue  of  Trajan  boldiog  the 
that  tlie  great  oicbitcct.  Apollodotua,  gilded  globe  which  is  supposed  to 
in  constructing  such  a  monument  to  ^  have  contained  bis  ashes.  'Jliiii  globe 
fai*   bene^tor. 


time  the  best  memorial  of  bis  own 
gmius.  It  is  composed  of  tbirty-four 
ne«ea  of  white  marble,  nine  of  which 
form  Ihe  banment,  and  twenty-three 
tb*  shaft.  The  rcmainii^  two  form 
the  torus  and  capital.  The  column 
is  in  cxccllcot  proportion,  but  the 
■TEbitecture  is  mined  i  the  base  and 
e^ilol  being  Tuscan,  the  shaft  Doric, 
and  the  mouldings  of  the  pedestal 
Corintbian.  The  pedestal  is 
with   bM-telieb  of   warlike 


i>  placed  upon  tt 


A  statue  of 
ilt,  1 1  feet  high, 
column  by  Sii- 
tus  V.  about  tbe  end  of  Ibe  aeven> 
leentb    century,     when   the   feet    of 
Tr^an's  statue  are  said  to  have  bei 
visible.      The  height  of  the  colum 
eiL-lusive  of  tbe  statue,  is  13S  &et ; 
represents  tbe  height  of  that  part  d( 
■red  1  the  Qi 


1  fur  the  Forutn,  as  e^ 
pressed  in  tbe  following  iascriptioui 
which  slates  also  that  tbe  coiumn  vM 
dedicated  by  the  Ser.ate  and  Bomaa 
people,   while  Trojan  held  tbe   Tii- 


,  shields, 
be«rt  an  inscription  supported  by  ttro 
winged    figures.       A   series   of  bas- 
Klieli  fonos  a  spiral  round  the  shaft, 

oua  history  of  the  military  acbieic- 
mentt  of  the  eraperor.  These  match- 
less sculptures  are  in  a  high  stale 
of  preservation  and  in  the  best  taste. 
They  form  a  perfect  study  of  antiqui- 
ties; indeed,  as  a  mere  record  of  cos- 
tumes, no  ancient  monument  which  opn-iBUi .  srr  .  ecistvs.  This  fixeft 
bas  been  preserved  to  us  is  so  valu-  the  date  abottt  the  period  of  the  Par-- 
able.  The  bas-reliefs  are  two  fcel  lUian  wars,  from  which  the  emptor 
high  in  tbe  lower  part,  and  nearly  did  not  live  to  return,  so  that  he  DeTer 
four  feet  high  at  the  top.  Tbey  begin  .  saw  the  column.  Tlie  respect  paid 
with  a  representation  of  the  passage  |  to  bis  memory  by  making  tbe  columtt 
of  the  Danube  by  a  bridge  of  boats,    the  depository  of  bis  ashes  w 


and  are  carried  on  through  the 
oeisive  events  of  tbe  Dacian  wars,  re 
presenting  tbe  construction  of  foi 
^treues,  attacks  on  the  enemy,  tb 
/Cmperor  addressing  his  troops,  th 
■  Seseplion  of  ambassadors  who  sue  fo 
peace,  and  other  incidental  circum 
stances  of  the  campaign.  AH  these 
detaila  will  be  found  adrairaWy  en- 


bigher  hon 


Pd^^  StaiB$J\    H.  27. — ROME. — Antiquities;  Arches.  S47 


most  imposing  monuments  of  Rome, 
although  it  exhibits  the  decline  of  art 
and  is  composed  of  fragments  taken 
from  an  unknown  arch  of  Triyan. 
Some  writers  consider  that  the  form 
and  proportions  of  the  arch  are  too 
good  for  the  time  of  Constantine,  and 
therefore  regard  it  as  the  Arch  of 
Trajan,  adopted  by  Constantine,  and 
loaded  with  additional  ornaments.  It 
has  three  archways,  with  four  columns 
of  the  Corinthian  order  on  each  front; 
seven  of  these  are  of  giallo  antico,  the 
«ghth  was  originally  of  the  same  ma- 
terial, but  it  was  taken  away  by  Cle- 
ment VIII.  for  an  altar  in  the  Lateran, 
and  the  present  one  was  substituted 
by  Clement  XII.  On  each  attic  are 
lour  square  bas-reliefs,  and  over  each 
of  the  smaller  arches  are  two  circular 
medallions,  all  relating  to  the  history 
of  Trajan.  The  square  reliefs  on  the 
flanks  of  the  attic  and  the  statues  of 
the  Dacian  captives  also  belong  to 
some  arch  of  Trigan,  and  are  easily 
distinguished  from  the  inferior  sculp- 
tures of  Constantine  200  years  later. 
The  square  reliefs  on  the  front  facing 
the  Coliseum  represent —  1.  The  tri- 
umphal entry  of  Trajan  into  Rome ; 
S.  The  emperor  raising  a  recumbent 
figure,  an  allegorical  allusion  to  the 
repairs  of  the  Appian  Way ;  3.  His 
supplying  the  people  with  provisions ; 
4.  The  emperor  on  a  chair  of  state, 
while  a  person,  supposed  to  be  Partba- 
masiris,  king  of  Armenia,  is  brought 
before  him.  On  the  southern  side  are 
—  1.  Trajan  crowning  Parthamaspes, 
king  of  Parthia ;  2.  The  discovery  of 
the  conspiracy  of  Decebalus,  king  of 
Dacia;  3.  The  emperor  haranguing 
his  soldiers ;  4.  The  sacrifice  of  the 
Suovetaurilia.  On  the  flanks  of  the 
attic  are  the  two  reliefs  supposed  to 
have  formed  originally  one  compart- 
ment ;  they  represent  the  victory  of 
Trajan  over  Decebalus,  and  are  the 
▼ery  finest  works  of  the  kind  extant. 
The  circular  medallions  over  the  small 
arehes  represent  the  sports  of  the  chase 
and  their  attendant  sacrifices.  The 
works  of  Constantine  do  not  harmonise 
with  time  bauitiful  wotkM.  The  aculp- 


tured  frieze  which  goes  round  thd 
middle  of  the  arch  represents,  in  a 
series  of  indifferent  bas*relie&,  military 
processions  and  various  events  in  the 
life  of  Constantine.  On  the  flanks  of 
the  arch  are  two  round  medallions 
representing  the  chariots  of  the  sun 
and  moon,  typifying  the  emperor's 
dominion  over  the  east  and  west  The 
figures  of  Fame  over  the  arch ;  the 
bas-reliefs  of  the  piers '  representing 
the  conquest  of  Verona  and  the  fall 
of  Maxentius;  the  victories  on  the 
pedestals  of  the  columns  also  belong 
to  the  age  of  Constantine,  and  show 
how  low  the  arts  had  fallen  at  that 
time.  Over  the  reliefs  in  the  interior 
of  the  great  arch  are  the  words  fvk- 

DAIORI  QVIXTIS  .  LIBBRATORI  VRBIS:  the 

former,  no  doubt,  alludes  to  the  ces- 
sation of  the  Christian  persecutions. 
The  words  voris  x.  vorisxx.,  over  the 
smaller  arches,  refer  to  the  ceremony 
introduced  by  Augustus  of  offering  up 
vows  for  ten  and  twenty  years  for  the 
preservation  of  the  empire.  In  the 
last  century  the  arch  was  partially 
buried.  Pius  VII.  excavated  down 
to  the  ancient  pavement ;  and  as  it 
now  stands,  it  is,  with  all  the  fiiults  of 
its  details,  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
monuments  in  Rome. 

j4rch  of  Dohbdla,  on  the  CieHan, 
near  the  church  of  S.  Giovanni  e 
Paolo.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been 
the  entrance  to  the  Campus  Martialis, 
where  the  public  games  in  honour  of 
Mars  were  celebrated  when  the  Campus 
Martins  was  inundated  by  the  Tiber. 
It  is  a  single  arch  of  travertine  with 
some  fragments  of  the  ancient  inscrip^ 
tion,  from  which  we  gather  that  it  was 
erected  by  the  consuls  P.  Cornelius 
Dolabella  and  Caius  Julius  Silanus 
(a.  d.  10).  Nero  availed  himself  of 
the  arch  by  adopting  it  in  the  line  of 
his  aqueduct. 

Arch  o/Drusua,  on  the  Appian  Way, 
close  to  the  gate  of  St.  Sebastian,  the 
most  ancient  of  the  triumphal  arches. 
We  learn  from  Suetonius  that  it  was 
erected  by  the  Senate  to  Drusus^  the 
father  ot  \Vie  em^vcoit  CNva^v^v  *^qa 
youthtu\  couc^vrox  ^Vom^«t*KOo»^ 


sdoTE  27. — SOUE. — Antiquit 

scd  in  two  magnifiscnt  odi 


«;  Arches.     fSecfcf. 


Dnuum  (etenlem.  tt  ' 

Uirch.buil 


ll»i 


lied  J  of  lr«- 
marbli-,  and 


blocks  of  immeiue  size,  which  ue 
proved  bf  bns-relidii  on  ihcir  mverUid 
■uriuci  to  have  belonged  to  earlier 
edifices.  The  Ironti  are  hoUoved  Into 
nichei  ipparentlf  inlended  to  reccin 
■Isluei,  Btid  Evparaled  bj  Binall  loir 
columiw.  Eacii  front  is  shout  75  fitd 
in  length.  The  proponiuns  and  de- 
UIIb  or  ihia  building  are  in  the  lowest 
*tjle  of  act,  and  it  is  probably  attri- 
buted correctly  to  Septimius  Seienu. 

massive  brick-uork,  tlie  ruins  of  thp 
fortress  erected  upon  the  arch  b;  the 
Frangipnni  during  the  middle  age). 

Are/i  of  Srptimim   Sictrus,   in   the 

norlh- west  angle  of  the  Roman  Forunii 

ted  A.  D.  305,  hv  the  Sena 


two  marbh 

the  Composite  order.  Above  tJw  un- 
Ublalure  the  remains  of  the  pediment 
tnar  be  distinguished  amung  Ibe  ivy 
whu'h  now  clothes  the  summit.  There 
is  no  trace  of  an  inscription.  Cara- 
ealU  appropriated  the  arch  fur  the  line 
of  his  aqueduct,  of  whicli  a  portion 
lemainj.  Coins  are  still  extant,  on 
wliicli  this  arch  is  n^resented  sur- 
mounted by  an  equestrian  statue  be-  ,  . 
tvecn  too  military  trophies.  llie  |  people,  in  honour  of  the  emperor  and 
Porta  S.  Sebastiaqo,  seen  in  penpec-  his  sont  Cantcalla  and  Gets,  Id  com- 
live  through  thli  arch,  is  one  of  the  memoraCe  their  conquests  of  the  Par- 
bvourite  subjects  of  the  Roman  thians  and  Prrsiatu.  It  is  cuostructed 
artists,  and  is  engraved  in  nuist  books  entirely  of  Grecian  marble,  and  COD- 
ofprints  illustrative  of  Rome.  sirt!  of  one  central  and  two  lalerU 
jirth  of  GalStniit,  called  the  Arco  atches,  with  transverse  arches  in  the 
di  San  Vito,  from  the  church  of  that  flanks.  On  the  summit,  as  may  be 
uiDt  adjoining.  It  occupies  the  site  seen  from  coins  of  bolti  Sevenis  and 
of  the  E<qui1iao  gate,  and  was  dedi-  Caracalla,  there  stood  a  car  drawn  by 
eated  to  Gallionus  and  his  wife  Salo-  sii  horv«  abreast,  and  contsiuing  the 
nino,  by  Marcus  Aurelius  Victor,  the  Bgures  of  the  emperor  and  his  aaatt, 
historian  of  the  ageof  Julian.  Itisa  Each  front  has  four  columns  of  tba 
single  arch  of  travertine,  willi  four  Composite  order,  and  a  series  of  ba»- 
pilasters  of  the  Corinthian  order  and  ^  relief  representing  dISercnt  events  of 
two  buttressei,  part  of  which  is  Mill    the  Oriental  wars.      Although     ' 


^ 


iide  facing  S.  Maria  Mag- 
giore.  The  inscription  on  the  friese 
is  more  than  iBually  characterised  by 
the  talsehood  of  Ibe  flattery  which  was 
applied  to  the  most  profligate  of  em- 
perors. AfewycBrsago  thechains  and 
key>  of  the  Puna  Salaccbia  of  Viterbo 

e  capture  of  that  city  a.  n.  1  £00. 

Ardi  of  Jaayi  QuadHfrow,,  in  the 

/WdabTum.      This  is  supposed  to  have 

one  of  the  numerous  arehes  of  the 

!  kind,  which  were  constructed  at 

the  junction  of  difli-'rent  streets,  either 


rulpturei 

Ihey  exhibit  soma  curious  details  of 
military  life.  They  represent  ha- 
rangues, sieges,  the  arrangement  of 
camps,  the  assault  with  the  battering- 
and  the  submission  of  the  eap> 


Ou  tl 


luth  side  w 


iddressing  his  troops 
the  taking  of  Carrha,  the  siege  of 
Nisibisand  the  flight  of  its  king.  On 
the  right  of  the  arch  the  emperor  it 
seen  receiving  the  king  of  ArmnniK 


e  lower  part  the  bai- 
;-ram  is  seen  at  work.  Oa  the 
fdcing  the  Capitol,  the  sculptuiw 

,- B ■.—  -■>«  "gl"  represent  in  the  uppar 

/brminga  vault  in  the  centre.  It  iti  partanother  harangue.andinthelower 
eonstiucled  witli  tite  utmost  toUdVlj.l  vurt'ioti  ftie  iic^e  u?  Mis.  In  the 
and  the  boMe  is  composed  of  maiblB\ii'pV«  ¥a.t\,  tA  iXie  o??oi\\.c  Bom^tii, 


Pigial  Statet."]    11.27.— bomb. — AntiquiUet}  Atckts. 


S4$ 


liient  we  see  the  passage  of  the  Eu- 
phrates and  the  capture  of  Ctesiphon ; 
ia  the  other,  the  submission  of  the 
Arab  chief,  the  passage  of  the  Tigris, 
and  the  flight  of  Artabanus.  In  one 
of  the  piers  is  a  staircase  of  fifty  steps 
leading  to  the  top.  In  the  lengthy 
inscription  on  the  attic  we  may  easily 
recognise  the  erasure  made  by  Cara^ 
ealla  for  the  purpose  of  obliterating 
the  name  of  his  brother  Geta,  when 
he  put  him  to  death,  a.  d.  213.  The 
words  added  are,  r.  r.  optimis  for- 
TissiMisQvx  PRiNciriEvs.  The  arch 
was  half-buried  in  the  soil  when  Pius 
VII.  commenced  his  excavations  in 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century. 
In  1803  it  was  laid  open  to  its  base, 
when  the  ancient  pavement  of  the 
Cliyus  Asyli  was  discovered,  by  which 
the  triumphal  processions  passed  from 
the  Forum  to  the  CapitoL 

Arch  of  Septimius  Severut  (tn   Ve- 
iabro),  also   called   the  Arch  of  the 
Goldsmiths,  situated  close  to  the  Arch 
of  Janus,  in  the  Velabrum.      A  long 
inscription  shows  that  it  was  erected 
by  the   bankers  and   traders   of  the 
Forum  Boarium  to  Septimius  Seye- 
rus,  his  wife   Julia,  and  their  sons 
Caracallaand  Geta,  but  the  name  and 
figure  of  the  latter  were  removed  after 
his  murder  by  his  brother  Caracalla. 
As  in  the  other  arch  of  this  emperor 
in  the  Forum,  the  name  of  Geta  has 
been  erased,  and  the  place  supplied  by 
the  words  fortissimo  fxlicissimoqve 
FRiKciri.      It  is  a  mere  square  aper- 
ture, formed  by  an  entablature  sup- 
ported on  broad  pilasters  of  the  Com- 
posite order.     The  front  is  of  marble; 
the  basement  and  cornice  at  the  back 
are  of  travertine.     The  pilasters  are 
loaded  with  ornaments  and  military 
trophies ;  the  other  bas-reliefs  repre- 
sent  the  various  sacrificial  instruments 
and  the  act  of  sacrifice.     Some  of  the 
enrichments  are  very  elaborate,  but 
the  style  and  execution  of  the  whole 
indicate  the  decline  of  art.     The  in- 
scription is  of  great  importance  to 
the  student   of  Roman   topography, 
as  marking  the  site  of  the  Forum 
JBoMrium. 


Arch  of  Titus,  erected  by  the  Senate 
and  people  in  honour  of  Titus,  to  com- 
memorate the  conquest  of  Jerusalem,* 
It  is  the  most  elegant  of  all  the  tri- 
umphal arches,  and  as  a  record  of 
Scripture  history  is,  beyond  all  doubt, 
the  most  interesting  ruin  in  Rome. 
It  is  a  single  arch  of  Greek  marble, 
with  fluted  columns  of  the  Composite 
order  on  each  side.  In  the  time  of 
Pius  VII.  the  building  was  greatly 
ruined,  and  would  have  perished  bujt 
for  the  judi(»ous  restorations  theu 
made.  It  is  easy  to  distinguish  tbes^ 
modem  additions  from  the  ancient 
portion.  The  front  towards  the  Fo- 
rum has  suffered  more  severely  than 
the  other,  and  has  preserved  only  a 
portion  of  the  basement,  and  about 
half  of  the  columns,  with  the  muti- 
lated figures  of  Victory  over  the  arch. 
On  the  side  facing  the  Coliseum  the 
columns  are  more  perfect,  and  nearly 
all  the  cornice  and  the  attic  are  pre- 
served, llie  sculptures  of  the  frieze 
represent  a  procession  of  warriors 
leading  oxen  to  the  sacrifice ;  on  the 
key-stone  is  the  figure  of  a  Roman 
warrior,  nearly  entire.  On  the  attie 
is  the  original  inscription,  finely  cut, 
showing  by  the  use  of  the  word  "  divo  " 
that  it  was  erected  after  the  death  of 

Titus:  SENATVS.FOPVLVSQVE.  ROMAN  VS. 
DIVO  .  TITO.  DIVI.  VKSPASIAMI.  F.  VESPA- 

siAMo.  AvovsTO.  The  bas-reliefs  on 
the  sides  of  the  piers  under  the  arch 
are  highly  interesting.  On  one  side 
is  a  representation  of  a  procession 
bearing  the  spoils  of  the  Temple, 
among  which  may  still  be  recognised 
the  golden  table,  the  silver  trumpets, 
and  the  seven-branched  candlestick 
of  massive  gold,  which  fell  into  the 
Tiber  from  the  Milvian  bridge  during 
the  flight  of  Maxentius  from  the  on- 
slaught of  Constantine;  the  size  of 
this  candlestick,  as  here  represented, 
appears  to  be  nearly  a  man*s  height : 
so  that  both  in  size  and  form  these 
bas-reliefs  perfectly  correspond  with 
the  description  of  Josephus,  and  are 
the  only  authentic  representations  of 
these  BacT«d  ob^«c\.%.  Otw  ^'^  ^>dcAx 
pier  th©  cmipwot  \%x«^t«swAft^^xo«'o»^ 


850  nooTBST. — home. — An^qmtiaf  BatA».    [S«A.h 

bj  Victory  in  hii  triumphal  car,  drawn  j  anliciuariei  to  mBny  ruined  walls  and 
by  Tour  boripii  uid  uirrouacled  by  chambers,  which  arc  now  strippid  of 
BdmaiiB  carrying  tlie  texea.  The 'all  their  omameDU,  and  reduced  to 
nult  oT  the  arch  ia  richly  omameated  |  mere  maHca  of  brick-work.  Ai  a 
with  lunk  paneU  and  rosea ;  in  llic  ,  ruin,  howerer,  independently  of  anj- 
'  a  bu-relief  repreHnting  tlie  theoiy  whatever,  it  U  impoasible  fin 
a  of  Titu*.  I  the  miMt  ordinary  ipeElalor  not  to  be 

struck  with  the  nutnos  and  roagni- 
'"'^'  Bcenoe  of  the  dcaign.      A>anexai^>le 

I  of  Agrippa,  built  i.  c.  34,  in  of  Iloman  architecture,  there  is,  per- 
■  Campus  Martiui,  behind  the  ilte  haps,  no  ruin  ia  eibtence.  if  we  ez- 
at  the  Pantheon,  and  bequeathed  by  ccpt  tlic  CdIUcuid,  which  produca  so 
Agrippa  to  the  ILonuui  people.  They  strong  an  impresaon  dd  tlie  mind  ■■ 
ye  suppoKd  to  hate  extended  lo  tlic  the  Baths  of  Carscalla.  The  external 
Piuza  delleStiniale,and  to  liavebeen  I  wall,  which  is  stijl  traceable  almost 
bounded  UD  the  sides  by  the  street  uF  througbuut  its  entire  circuit,  incluaed 
the  Vallc  Theatre,  and  by  the  Via  di  a  quKlriUteral  open  area,  of  which 
Octi^  occupying  s  apace  of  about  TOO  I  the  baths,  as  usual,  occupied  nearly 
feet  Uara  north  to  aouth,  and  500  from  |  the  centre.  Tlie  chambers  of  theae 
east  to  weaL  They  conMined  the  fa-  outworks,  which  are  supposed  to  havs 
mous  bronie  statue  by  LyBlpput,  re-  contained  the  baths  uf  the  plebeian*, 
prescntlngtheyoulh undressing, called  and  conuderabic  remaini  ol'  the  por- 
the  Apoiyomeooi,  which  llberius  re- !  tioos  which  extended  along  the  outer 
moved  to  his  palace,  but  was  obliged  wall,  may  stilt  he  (raced ;  and  on  the 
subsequently  to  restore,  in  order  to  north-western  sidethe  Uemicyde  and 
appeaie  the  clamours  of  llio  people,  jit*  apartments  are  tolerably  per&cL 
Considerable  remaiiui  of  these  baths  i  The  central  ruins  form  an  oblong  iso- 
haie  been  found  in  the  rear  of  Ihe.lated  mass,  said  by  Nibby  to  be  690  ft. 
Pantheon,  and  particularly  in  the  lDiig,Bnd45aft.in  itsgreatestbreadth. 
sacristy.  The  Pantheon  i*  supposed  |  The  details  of  this  mast  are  highly 
by  many  to  have  originally  served  as  interesting,  although  there  is  still 
the  hall  of  entrance  to  the  buths.  some  doubt  which  of  the  three  great 

Batlu  of  CaracaUa,  finely  situated  halls  is  the  one  described  by  Spartian 
on  the  Tie  di  S.  Sebasiisno,  under  the  as  the  Cdla  S-Jcarii.  The  position 
eastern  slopes  of  the  Aventine.  The^  and  arrangement  of  the  circular  ball* 
are  the  most  perfect  of  all  tbe  Roman  situaiedatthesoulh-wetternextremitjr 
therms.and with  tbesinglcetceptiou  of  the  baths,  and  bearing  erident 
of  the  Coliseum  are  the  niost  eslen-  |  traces  of  a  second  story,  have  been 
sive  ruin^  in  Rome.  Tbey  occupy  conudered  by  some  antiquariea  ta 
an  area  not  less  than  a  mile  in  circuit,  I  point  out  that  hall  as  the  cella  of 
and  are  somewhat  smaller  thao  the  Spartian  )  while  Nibby  has  no  besi- 
Batbs  of  Diocletian,  but  ki^er  than  <  lalion  In  reeognising  this  celebrated 
those  of  Titus.  They  were  begun  by  j  chamlier  in  tbe  I^scina,  tbe  large  ball 
Caracalla  about  a.  n.  2IS;  the  por-'on  the  norlh-east,  which  the  recent 
ticDS  were  added  by  Eiagabnlus  ;  and  '  excavations  haie  proved  to  be  muctt 
Aleiander  Severus  completed  the  below  the  level  of  the  other  apart> 
whole  design.  It  would  be  r[uite  ments.  The  passago  in  which  Spar- 
useless  to  attempt  a  minute  descrip.  cian  describes  the  cella  as  a  master- 
Uon  of  these  ruins  without  constant  piece  of  architecture,  alludes  to  tha  • 
Teference  to  a  ground-plan.  Even  flat  roof,  supported  by  bars  of  braaa 
-with  the  aid  of  restorations,  so  much  or  copper,  interwoven  like  the  straps 
/»  necessarily  supplied  by  conjecture,  of  a  Boman  sandul ;  —  "Ex  ttn  etl 
that  the  stranger  becomes  weary  of '  cupo  urnccXi  suptr  potitt  oie  dicunlHr, 
identifying  with    the  dus«riptioni  Dl\5uibus  eanuralis  tota  wmeiedlta  u*,  tt 


PigMil  SMes.']    R.  27. — home. — AfUiquUUs}  Baths. 


851 


AbjiIimi  €9t  qnaium  ui  id  ipgum  fjtn 
mgnU  poiuiue  docti  mMAanici,*^  'Ihe 
oehtral  hall  fomaed  a  kind  of  Pinaoo- 
theoa,  similar  to  that  in  the  baths  of 
Diocletiao ;  the  places  of  the  coluiniis 
which  ODce  adorned  it  are  still  visible. 
The  last  column  was  removed  in  the 
16th  oentury  by  Cosmo  de*  Medici, 
to  support  the  well>known  statue 
of  Justice  in  the  Piazza  di  S.  Trinity 
At  Florence.  The  fragments  of  the 
vaulted  ceilijig  which  still  remain  are 
remarkable  as  containing  considerable 
masses  of  pumice,  introduced,  it  is 
supposed,  lor  the  sake  of  lessening  the 
weight.  These  halls  are  surrounded 
by  a  multitude  of  smaller  chambers, 
some  of  which  have  preserved  their 
stairs,  while  others  show  numerous 
jemains  of  conduits,  and  still  retain 
traces  of  their  marble  coating.  In 
some  of  them  were  found  very  in- 
teresting fragments  of  the  mosaic 
pavement,  now  in  the  Lateran  Mu- 
seum, representing  full  length  figures 
of  athletes,  some  of  which  have  their 
names  written  over  them.  In  1826 
the  ground  was  extensively  excavated 
at  the  expense  of  Count  Velo  of  Vin- 
cenza.  Several  important  facts  were 
then  ascertained.  It  was  proved  that 
the  first  story  is  not  interred,  as  was 
formerly  supposed ;  the  subterranean 
chambers  were  mere  cellars ;  and  the 
baths  occupied  the  ground  floor,  pre- 
cisely aa  we  now  see  them.  At  the 
depth  of  about  8  feet  the  mosaic  pave- 
ment was  discovered,  and  still  deeper 
excavations  laid  open  some  curious 
vrangements  of  conduits.  The  large 
open  space  between  the  circular  cham- 
ber and  the  boundary  wall  under  the 
Aventine  appears  to  have  been  the 
arena.  The  chambers  which  compose 
this  side  of  the  baths,  by  their  evident 
remains  of  windows  set  at  rest  the 
disputed  question  as  to  the  mode  of 
lighting  the  apartments.  Overlook- 
ing the  arena  are  some  remains  of  the 
Theairidium,  and  immediately  behind 
are  extensive  ruins  of  the  large  re- 
■tnroirs  and  of  the  aqueduct  which 
•uppliad  them.  By  ascending  the 
bitfkmt  wUireaMeg  to  the  upper  part 


of  the  ruins  we  see  the  numerous 
channels  for  carrying  the  water  from 
the  roof.  One  of  the  most  interest- 
ing fiu;ts  connected  with  these  baths 
is  the  discovery  of  many  precious  frag- 
ments of  ancient  sculpture,  which  now 
enrich  the  Italian  museums,  and  at 
the  same  time  attest  the  splendour  of 
this  migestic  edifice.  Among  these 
are  the  Farnese  Hercules,  the  colossid 
Flora,  and  the  Toro  Farnese,  dis- 
covered in  the  16th  century,  and 
now  in  the  museum  at  Naples ;  ihe 
Torso  Belvidere,  the  Atreus  and 
Thyestes,  the  two  gladiators,  the 
Venus  Callipyge,  the  basaltic  baths 
of  the  Vatican,  the  granite  basins  in 
the  Piazza  Farnese,  with  numerous 
bas-relieis,  cameos,  bronzes,  medals, 
and  other  treasures,  most  of  which 
have  passed  away  with  the  other  spoils 
of  the  Farnese  family.  The  baths 
are  described  by  all  the  minor  his- 
torians as  the  most  magnificent  build- 
ing of  Rome,  and  Olympiodorus 
states  that  they  contained  1600  marble 
seats  for  the  bathers.  They  are  sup- 
posed to  have  been  tolerably  entire  in 
the  sixth  century,  when  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  aqueducts  by  Vitigcs. 
during  the  memorable  siege  of  537 
rendered  these  and  the  other  baths 
completely  useless.  From  that  time 
the  fabric  no  doubt  fell  rapidly  into 
ruin.  The  Jesuits  are  said  to  have 
sold  large  quantities  of  the  stone; 
and  it  is  related  that  when  the  granite 
columns  of  the  fportioos  were  re- 
moved, the  roofs  fell  in  with  so  fearful 
a  concussion  that  the  inhabitants  of 
Rome  thought  it  was  the  shock  of  an 
earthquake.  These  extensive  ruins 
were  the  favourite  haunt  of  the  poet 
Shelley.  In  the  prefdice  to  the  **  Pro- 
metheus Unbound,"  he  says,  **  this 
poem  was  chiefly  written  upon  the 
mountainous  ruins  of  the  baths  of 
Caracalla,  among  the  flowery  gladet 
and  thickets  of  odoriferous  blossoming 
trees  which  are  extended  in  ever- 
winding  labyrinths  upon  its  immense 
platforms  and  dizzy  arches  suspended 
in  the  air.  Th«  bit\^\  VA.>^<^  ^V)  ^t 
^  Rome,  Bud  t>nft  ^«««^.  ^A  MJcit  <vffw««* 


BOUT*  27. — BOMB.  —  j^nft'jBtriM  ,-   B<^.       [Sect.  f. 

ikening  spring  in  that  di' 
nsle,  anil  the  new  life  wilh  < 
drmches  the  spiiitu  even  to  ii 


dnnu 


icrvBtiuii  or  llie  flnest  hall  whicli 
come  down  to  uii    from  ancient 

M.  TTie  bttlhs  were  of  immeiue 
;  the  oulvorks,    to    far   as  thej 


t  of  Coufiihwr,  on  the  Qiiiii 
tending  over  ihc  ground  no' 
vered  bj  the   PaUizo   Rospiglioi 


- '  mote  than  a  mile  in  circuit,  including 
r  all  that  space  at  present  occupied  t^ 
.  ,  „  ,'lhoPUiiade'Termini.theCarihuriaii 
the  CoDsu'lta,  the  Villa  Aldobrandini,  |  convent  and  its  gardens  the  conient 
■nd  the  Colonna  Gardens.  The;  verc  and  gardens  of  San  Bernardo,  tbs 
erected  about  1.  c.  S36,  and.  accord-  '  public  granaries,  and  part  of  the 
ing  to  an  inKrJplion  in  (he  Hospigli-  grounds  of  the  Villa  Negroni,  fbi- 
osf  Palace,  were  restored  by  a  pnrfect  I  inerly  the  Villa  MassimL  The  ex- 
of  Ihe  city.  Prtronius  Perpennn,  aflcr  |  ternal  buildings  are  supposed  to  bave 
they  had  been  long  neglected.  In  furmed  a  square,  having  at  the  &oat 
thai  putt  of  Ihe  L'olonna  Gardens  j  angles  two  circular  balls  or  templei^ 
Thich  ovcrlookn  Ihe  Piaiia  Pilotla  which  served  probahlyastheentrance* 
are  some  vaulted  bslU  of  two  sloriei. '  into  the  area.  Both  of  these  still 
now  used  as  granaries,  which  belonged  I  exist  ^  one  hss  been  converted  into 
to  these  baths.  The  steps  leading  |  Ihe  conventual  i-hurch  of  San  Ber. 
10  the  upper  part  are  Mkewiie  trace-    nardo 


able,  but  it  Is  impossible 
out  ajiy  plan  inaloguut  U>  tl 
other  baths.    The  most  inl 


.  follow 


busts,  inscriptions,  and  statues,  col- 
lected together  in  the  celebrated  sum- 
iner-houte  of  the  Ho^jgliosi  palace, 
nearly  aL  of  which  were  found 


ind  is  uned  a 


lueh  dilapidated 


It  gar- 


dens which  is  now  used  a.i  a  bleadH 
ing-yard.  Between  Ihis  and  the  two 
circular  halls  just  described  is  the 
Ii  of  Clement  supposed  site  of  the  Libraries,  to 
XII.,  the  remains  of  a  portico,  with 'which  the  collections  of  Trajon'a 
walls  painted  in  fresco  with  historical  I  (Jlpian  Basilica  were  removed.  The 
subjects,  and  an  omameoted  ceiling,  main  portion  of  the  baths  appears  to 
were  discovered.  The  well-known  '  have  formed  an  oblong  square  in  Ihe 
colossal  horses  and  figures  on  the 'centre  of  the  area.  The  Pinaootbeea. 
Monle  Cavallo,  the  two  statues  of'  or  great  central  hall,  was  converted 
and  that  of  his  son,  two  |  by   Michael   Angelo   into   the    nobis 


I    the  balustrades  of  c 


of  which 

tha  Capitol,  the  other  unde 
portico  of  St.  John  Lateran, 
discovered  among  these  Tu ins. 

Baths  o/DiocMtait,  on  the  Vii 
These  magnificent  baths  wi 


dcgli    Angeli. 


begu 


by  Diocletian  and  Mi 
A.  B.  302,  and  finished  by  Conslaniius 
and  Maximinui.  Cardinal  Baronius 
relates,  on  the  authority  of  the  mar- 
ly rologie?,  that  40,000  Christians 
were  employed  upon  the  works,  and 

found  bearing  the  mark  of  a  cross. 

It  is  reiyr  probsbSe  that  the  tradition 

ted  to  tba  consecration  of  the  ruiiia, 

mnd  that  we  arc  indebted  to  it  for  tbe 


vert  tbe  whole  edifice  ii 
.     The  vaulted 


a  Greek 


ttill  ri 


which  the  ai 
lamps  were  suspended,  and  eight 
massive  columns  of  oriental  grsnita 
are  standing  in  their  original  position. 
The  circular  aula  of  tbe  baths  wai 
added  as  a  vestibule  to  Ihe  church  by 
Vanvitelli  in  the  Ust  century.  Thi* 
church  is  one  of  the  most  imposing 
edi^ees  in  "^A^^^e^  bwi  U  discribcd 

t\uil4ETltS.¥IQ\lCT 


Pcpat  Siaies.j    r.  £?• — home. — lAntiquUies  ;  Baths, 


353 


page.  The  omanaents  of  the  baths 
and  the  style  of  the  whole  building 
indicate  the  decline  of  art :  the  co- 
lumns did  not  support  the  continuous 
horizontal  entablature  of  more  ancient 
buildings,  but  sustained  a  series  of 
lofty  arches  resembling  the  basilicas 
of  later  times.  In  this  respect  the 
modern  church  has  a  great  advantage. 
**  Michael  Angelo,**  says  Forsyth,  **  in 
reforming  the  rude  magnificence  of 
JDiocletian,  has  preserved  the  sim- 
plicity and  the  proportions  of  the 
original,  has  given  a  monumental  im- 
portance to  each  of  its  great  columns, 
restored  their  capitals,  and  made  one 
noble  entablature  pervade  the  whole 
cross."  Behind  this  hall  was  the 
Natatio,  now  partly  covered  by  the 
cloisters.  In  the  gardens  of  the  con- 
vent are  some  additional  ruins,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  large  masses  of 
-brick-work :  some  of  these  still  re- 
tain part  of  their  vaulted  ceiling,  and 
are  apparently  the  remains  of  halls 
whose  arches  must  have  been  of  im- 
mense span.  In  the  grounds  of  the 
Villa  Negroni  are  the  ruins  of  the 
immense  reservoir  which  supplied  the 
baths,  with  some  vestiges  of  the  cele- 
brated Agger  or  rampart  of  Servius 
Tullius. 

Both*  of  Paulus  JEmilius,  a  mere 
name  given  to  a  semicircular  ruin 
adjoining  the  Forum  of  Trajan  at  the 
foot  of  the  Quirlnal.  The  form,  so 
far  as  it  can  be  ascertained  among  the 
numerous  houses  by  which  it  b  con- 
cealed, is  that  of  a  large  hemicycle  of 
massive  brickwork.  A  portion  has 
been  recently  cleared  away,  and  may 
be  examined  in  the  Vicolo  della  Salita 
del  Grillo,  near  the  little  church  of 
S.  Maria  in  Campo  Carleo.  It  has 
two  series  of  covered  arcades,  with 
some  pavements  of  black  and  white 
mosaics.  Milizia  and  Desgodetz,  who 
have  given  drawings  of  the  ruins, 
considered  that  they  were  those  of  a 
theatre;  Winckelmann  rejected  the 
idea  of  their  being  the  remains  of 
baths,  while  others  have  suggested 
that  the  building  waa  erected  to  de- 
fcnd  tb»  Forum  ham  the  .Quirinal, 


Recent  excavations  have  decisively 
proved  that  it  was  neither  a  theatre 
nor  a  bath  ;  and  Burgess  inclines  to 
the  idea  that  it  served  as  barracks  for 
the  Imperial  guards.  The  name  of 
the  neighbouring  Torre  delle  Milizie 
seems  to  strengthen  this  idea,  and  no 
explanation  so  little  encumbered  with 
difficulties  has  been  offered. 

BiUht  of  Nero,  and  Alexander  Se- 
verus,  —  There  is  some  contradiction 
between  the  Regionaries  and  the  other 
ancient  authorities  on  the  subject  of 
these  baths ;  some  distinctly  affirming 
that  they  are  identical,  and  others 
stating  that  the  Baths  of  Alexander 
were  near  those  of  Nero.  The  only 
way  of  solving  the  difficulty  appears 
to  be  the  conclusion  that  the  Alexan- 
drian baths  were  an  addition  to  those 
of  Nero,  as  the  latter  were  probably 
an  addition  to  those  of  Agrippa. 
They  seem  to  have  stood  between  the 
church  of  S.  Eustachio,  the  Piazza 
Navona,  the  Piazza  Madama,  and  the 
Pantheon.  The  Baths  of  Nero,  ac- 
cording to  Eusebius,  were  built  a.  n. 
65 ;  those  of  Alexander,  on  the  same 
auUiority,  were  built  about  ▲.  d.  229* 
Considerable  remains  have  been  dis- 
covered at  various  times  under  the 
Piazza  Navona,  the  Palazzo  Giusti- 
niani,  and  the  Palazzo  Madama.  The 
church  of  S.  Salvatore  in  T^trmis  also 
identifies  the  site.  The  only  remains 
now  visible  is  the  hemicycle  which 
exists  in  a  stable  of  the  inn  in  the 
Piazza  Rondanini.  The  two  columns 
added  to  the  portico  of  the  Pantheon 
by  Alexander  VII.  are  supposed  to 
have  belonged  to  these  baths. 

Baths  of  Titut,  on  the  Esquiline, 
overlooking  the  northern  side  of  the 
Coliseum.  It  would  hardly  be  possible 
to  make  any  description  of  these  ruins 
intelligible  to  the  stranger  without 
first  apprising  him  that  considerable 
portions  of  the  existing  buildings  are 
undoubtedly  anterior  to  the  age  of 
iltus.  It  is  well  known  that  the 
house  and  gardens  of  Maecenas  spread 
over  that  part  of  the  Esquiline  which 
faces  the  Co\\ai^uiii«  il\^^  ^«x.  >^^  ^b^» 
wfA  subte(^\i«iAV)   ^ccsx^\^  Vj  ^^^ 


HocTB  27. — iiosiE. — Anti^tits;  Batfu.    [Sect  t. 


Gulden  House  of  Ncra.  In  ttic  con- 
itructLon  of  hi>  new  edifice,  Nero  em- 
bodied Ibe  lilU  or  Msceniu  in  hu 
de^n;  and  livncc  there  is  reason  to 
beliere  that  aeicral  of  tlie  ctiaml>cr> 
0OV  visible  betoag  to  the  originil 
.fdue  of  Mwceuu.  When  Titui 
LiU-D.  BO)  constructed  bin  bathi  upon 
IAu  ipol,  he  availed  bimielf  of  the 
■tHntdings  of  his  predecessors,  and 
I  «ncted  vault*  and  walls  in  the  apart- 
ments in  order  to  rorm  an  area  for 
bl>  baths,  which  consequently  lie  di- 
leetl;  over  the  more  aocient  builil- 
{nga.  Domitian,  Tn^aa,  and  other 
cmperon  enlarged  or  altered  the  de- 
■igu,  but  the  ruins  are  scaitered  over 
tto  many  vineyards  that  it  is  ioipus- 
nble  to  diBtinguish  their  additions 
with  any  degree  of  preciiioD ;  indeed, 
the  titlei  of  "  Thunnai  Trsjani  "  and 
"  TliemUB  Titi  "  appear  to  have  been 
ittdiKriminately  qipUcd.  Hie  Bathg 
OT  Titus,  which  were  evidently  con^ 
tUrueted  with  great  haste,  are  sup- 
poaed  to  haie  occupied  the  spact 
betlcHn  the  Via  Folveriera  and  tht 
le  of  tl 


pirently   aiirroui 
recogniwd. 


Jed  on   three  ndea 

ae  position  may  still 

Tbe  ruins  of  ths 

iccupied   tbe   nentre 

iiible.     Opening  upon  thii^ 

iding  along  one  of  the  longeat 

■   seen  the    principal  apart- 

The  Urgest  i»  oppotile  Iba 

J  one  of  those  at  tlie  side  ia 

pointed    out   by  the  ciceroni  aa   the 


,l.c. 


poDtitieate  of  Leo  X., 
although  It  is  proved  by  the  cleareat 
evidence  that  it  was  found  in  tb* 
VigDB  de'  Fredis,  between  the  Setts 
Sale  and  S.  M.  Maggiore.  In  other 
chambers  on  thbi  side  the  Plulo  and 
Cerberus  of  the  Capitol  Museum,  tb* 
Bdvidere  Meleager,  and  the  painting 
which  has  become  so  celebrated  und^ 
the  name  of  the  Kozze  Aldobrandiui, 
were  discovered.      The  walla 


CoVm 


iring 


n  area  of  aboi 
■hose  of  Tr^an. 
extended  i 


400  Diet  by 
b^uu  by  Dumit 
(tireelion  of  S.  Pi 

■re  auppoted  to  have  neeupied  an  area 
of   IIDO   feet   by    800.       Tbe    cry 
under  the  church  oC  San  Manino 
mid  to  have  formed  part  of  the  halhs. 
One  of  the  hemicyclea 
by  the  French  into  a 
maa  (Folveriera)  whic 

hemicycle  forms  with  the  adjacent 
vaults  a  kind  of  terrace  from  which 
the  best  view  of  tbe  ruins  is  obtained. 
On  the  side  nearest  the  Colj 


then 
with   9 
aablerrancan 
UiEcenas  lie 


.  of  the 


The 


Uin 


tinted.  It  is  goneroUjr 
ihese  chambers  belongu 
Msceoas  :  if  this  19U 
xt  his  tumb  cannot  b* 
far  distant,  and  we  have  the  aulbori^ 
of  Suetonius  far  the  iotere^ing  &ol^ 
that  among  the  ruins  of  his  patrcHTa 
lilla  lies  the  grave  of  Horace.  On 
the  corresponding  side  of  the  aqiurs 
is  a  long  corridoi,  discovered  in  1813. 
1(  is  celebrated  for  the  beautHiil 
painted  celling,  the  eolouri  of  whfcdi 
are  slitl  vivid,  though  the  v.olU  an 
damp,  and  the  whole  corridor  a  tetr 
years  back  was  partly  Glled  witb 
earth.  These  interesting  works  are 
the  most  perfect  specimens  ofandent 
paintings  which  have  been  preserved 
in  Kome  1  they  represent  arabesques 
of  Rowers,  birds,  and  animals,  all  of 
which  eihibit  tbe  most  graceful  oUl> 
line  and  remarkable  facihty  of  design. 
One  of  the  curiosities  of  these  bathg 
is  the  painting  representing  two 


,  cxplai. 


1  tbe  in- 

le  mesning  of  this 


ambiguous  language  the 
_;    plied  by  the  "  Iran 
oblong  square  originally  forinuig  an\(aodeia  Baioua. 
open  court  may  be  traced;  U  was  a 


Papal  Siatei^   r«  27. —-Rome. — Anttquities;  Tombs.        885 


which  the  staircases  may  yet  be  seen, 
with  some  additional  fragments  of 
paintings,  A  short  corridor  bears 
the  name  of  Rhea  Sylvia,  from  the 
fMunting  on  the  vault  representing  the 
Conception  of  Romulus.  In  some  of 
the  latest  excavations,  a  small  chapel 
dedicated  to  S.  Felicita  was  disco- 
vered. It  is  supposed  by  Fea  and 
other  writers  to  have  been  used  for 
Christian  worship  as  early  as  the  6th 
century ;  on  the  wall  was  found  a 
Christian  calendar,  which  has  been 
engraved  by  De  Romanis  in  his  work 
on  the  *'  Camere  Esqutline."  Many 
of  the  other  apartments  retain  traces 
of  very  rich  decorations,  but  the  ruins 
are  so  unintelligible  that  no  definite 
plan  can  be  laid  down.  The  French 
have  been  erroneously  supposed  to 
deserve  the  credit  of  making  known 
the  existence  of  these  baths ;  they  cer- 
tainly merit  great  praise  for  exca- 
vating many  of  the  chambers,  but 
there  are  reasons  for  believing  that 
the  greater  part  of  the  site  has  been 
accessible  for  centuries.  In  the  time 
of  Leo  X.  some  excavations  were 
made  which  brought  to  light  the  fres- 
coes of  the  corridors.  In  the  Life  of 
Giovanni  da  Udine,  Vasari  mentions 
this  fiict,  and  states  that  Giovanni  and 
Raphael  were  so  much  pleased  with 
the  paintings,  that  they  studied  and 
copied  them  for  the  Vatican.  The 
unworthy  story  which  attributes  to 
the  jealousy  of  Raphael  the  filling  up 
of  the  chambers  after  he  had  copied 
the  paintings,  is  unsupported  by  the 
slightest  authority,  and  is  indeed  con* 
tradicted  by  the  fact,  that  the  great 
painter,  who  was  too  enthusiastic  an 
antiquary  to  have  even  suggested  their 
concealment,  proposed  a  plan  to 
Leo  X.  for  a  complete  survey  and 
restoration  of  ancient  Rome.  The 
chambers  and  the  paintings  are  de- 
scribed by  several  writers  of  the  1 7th 
century,  and  it  was  even  later  than 
this  that  they  were  filled  up  by  the 
government  to  prevent  their  becoming 
a  shelter  for  banditti;  in  1776  the^ 
were  afpaln  partially  opened  b^  Mirri, 
£fr  the  purpose  of  publiahing  the 


paintings ;  and  in  1813^  tbe  whole  site 
was  cleared  as  we  now  see  it.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  many  interesting 
fragments  still  remain  buried  under 
the  accumulation  of  soil. 

Adjoining  the  baths  is  the  ruin 
called  the  Sette  Sale,  a  massive  build- 
ing of  two  stories,  one  of  which  is  still 
buried ;  it  was  evidently  a  reservoir, 
and  is,  perhaps,  referable  to  the  ori- 
ginal palace  of  Maecenas.  In  later 
times  it  probably  supplied  the  Coli- 
seum and  the  Meta  Sudans.  The 
arrangement  of  the  interior  b  pecu- 
liar; it  is  divided  into  nine  parallel 
compartments  by  eight  walls.  These 
compartments  communicate  by  four 
arched  apertures  in  each  wall,  placed 
so  as  to  alternate  with  each  other,  and 
thus  prevent  the  pressure  of  the  water 
on^the  outer  walls.  This  arrange- 
ment allows  the  spectator,  standing 
in  the  first  chamber,  to  look  throush 
all  of  them  at  once  in  an  oblique  di- 
rection. The  length  of  the  central 
compartment  is  stated  by  Nibby  to 
be  40  feet,  the  height  9  feet,  and  the 
breadth  13  feet.  The  walls  still  re- 
tain the  incrustation  formed  by  the 
deposits  of  the  water;  it  is  as  hard  as 
iron,  and  exhibits  three  distinct  de- 
posits. Near  the  ScUe  Sale  is  a  high 
brick  ruin,  with  two  rows  of  niches 
for  statues ;  it  has  been  supposed  to 
have  formed  a  part  of  the  palace  of 
Titus,  but  nothing  whatever  is  known 
which  will  enable  us  to  identify  it. 

Tombs  and  Coluubaria. 

Mausdeum  of  Augustus,  between  the 
Via  de'  Pontefici  and  the  Strada  di 
Ripetta,  built  by  Augustus  himself 
in  his  sixth  consulate,  b.  c.  27,  about 
midway  between  the  Via  Flaminia  and 
the  Tiber.  It  is  a  circular  build- 
ing, steted  by  the  Latin  writers  to  be 
220  ancient  Roman  feet  in  diameter. 
Strabo  describes  it  as  the  most  re- 
markable monument  in  the  Campui 
Martins,  and  says  that  it  **  was  raised 
to  a  considerable  elevati(m  on  found- 
ations of  white  marble,  and  covered 
to  the  summvX  w\V\w  ww%jwea>^^>»^ 


BOUTE  27.— HOME. — AnHquititSi   Tomha.     fSecl.  fc 


■urmounted  the  wliolci  Ruund  the 
ianrr  circumference  were  Bepulchral 
chunlwri  conuiaing  his  remaiiu  and 
ic  of  hia  family  »nd  rriends.      The 


E'ound  around  ( 
id  ODI  in  groves  and  public  wall 
The  enrnnce  ifOh  aanked  by  two  c 
lilki  without  hicroglyphica,  nf  n-l 
one  it  now  standine  on  Monte  Cb>e 
the  other  in   the  I^aua  of  S.  Mi 
Maggiore.  The  miuBoleum  conui 
the  oahea  of  Ihc  emperor  himieir,  uf 
Hareellus,  Octavia,   Agrlppa,   Livia, 
Dnuiu,    Gernunicus,    Tiberius,   and 
Caligula.      We  know  from  Dion  Cos- 
■ius  that  no  om  titi  buried  in  it  after 
UietimeorTrajBi.    The  first  member 
of  the  impciial  fiimily   who  was  in- 
terred in  it  van  Ihe  yemxig  Marcelius. 


.  32;  ai 


L  any  idea  of  it: 
1.     Hic  mOHt 


Tiginal  magniG- 
isible         -   ■ 


■Une  is  standing  above  an 
i^ot  will  be  hallowed  in  the 
ot  the  >Hholar.  by  those  r 
lines  of  Virgil,  in  which  tl 
ludi-5  Id  the  newly  erected 

nemonibie 
c  poet  al- 

;  '^'"iXbir " 

™"  ""*"" 

-Stss 

S'Ed'''^ 

£W 

^•feS."u, 

,ri~ 

eUua  JicUMI  a 
u  pfl>n  Ma 

■■;s= 

■niu 


Palaiio  Valdam- 
brini.  The  modern  entrance  to  the 
arena  is  through  ihc  Falaiio  Corea  in 
the  Via  de'  Fonlefici ;  the  passage  ii 
entirely  paved  with  green  basalt.  The 
walls  are  of  immense  thickness,  and, 
though  the  interior  is  evidently  Slled 
up  vitb  rubbish,  it  is  sufflcisitly 
capacious  to  hold  many  thousand  per- 
sons. The  only  remains  now  visible, 
in  addition  to  the  circular  wall,  are 
Aome  masses  of  reticulated  work  in 
tufa,  beneath  the  modern  seals  for  the 
spectators.  Dependent  on  this  mau- 
soleum wos  the  Buttum,  a  funeral  pile 
mentioned  by  Strabo,  on  which  the 
imperial  bodies  were  burned.  The 
one  I  site  of  this  was  dis;overed  in  the  I»»t 
vh= 'century,  between  the  church  of  San 
Carlo  in  the  Corso,  and  the  end  of 
the  Via  della  Croce.  Some  blocks 
of  travertine  were  found,  bearing  th« 
names  of  members  of  the  imperid 
family.  Two  of  them  may  still  be 
seen  in  the  Valicuii,  where  they  serve 
as  pedestals  tu  two  statues  in  the  SaU 
di  Giove.      One  bears  the  foUowing 

CAISAKIS.  FPBIMiTVS  KST.    The  Olhei 

is  imperfect  1  but  the  following  ia 
still  legible:  —  mvill*  gekhakici  c 
.  .  .  .  Hic  sir*  EST.  Among  Ihe  ro- 
tnaikable  circumstances  which  have 
invested  so  many  mouiimenu  of  Italy 
with  pemliar  interest  for  the  BrilisA 
the  least  significant  U 


The  mnusoleum  is  supposed  to  have 
been  Brst  ruined  by  Robert  Guiscard; 
it  was  converted  into  a  tbrtrcsi  in  the 
19th  century,  by  ihe  Colonna  family, 
who  were  dislodged  by  Frederick 
BarbarossB,  in  1167,  when  the  tomb 
wu  reduced  to  ruin.  It  was  used  as 
n  amphitheatre  for  bull-fighls,  until 


theti 

spectacle!"  of  tl 


s  Viri.,  byw 
lat  kind  v 


suppressed  ;  it  is  now  used  for  dis- 
p}ays  of  fire-works,  or  for  the  ex- 
hibieioiia  of  some  tight-rope  dancer  1 
7»f  ruin  is  so  suirounded  by  houses' 


e  Palaii 


.  of  Augustus, 

'  :h  the  Cburd) 
publicly  per- 


ig  Ihc  Mausoleur 
ris  the  first  place  in  wl 
if  England  service  wa 
tbrmed  in  Rome. 

Tumb  of  t/i-<  Batur  Eiayiacity  out- 

le  the  Porta  Blagglore,  on  the  Via 

ibicana,  the  present  road  to  Naples 

by  Fro^none.    This  very  curious  mo- 

ent  was  recently  discovered  ia^- 

ed  in  the  walls  built  hy  Honoriu«, 

402,  clow  to  the  colossal  monu- 

t  of  the  Claudian  aqueduct;  it  »u 

eonM»\uently  so  effectually  concealed 


lLne«Q  vo  V^  (Mei  ao&c^w 


Pijpal  StaiesJ}   R.  27. — rome. — ArUiguUies;  Tombs,  357 


18  a  quadrilateral  building  of  three 
stories  or  divisions,  covered  with  slabs 
of  travertine.  The  first  story  is  plain. 
The  second  is  composed  of  stone  mor- 
tars, used  by  bakers  for  kneading  the 
dough.  On  the  band  which  separates 
this  division  from  the  third  is  the 
following  inscription,  which  is  re- 
peated on  each  of  the  four  faces  of  the 
tomb: — EST  hoc  monimemtvm  marcei 

VCaoILEI    EVRTSACIS    PISTORIS    REOEM- 

TORis  APPARBT.  The  third  division 
contains  three  rows  of  stone  mor- 
tars, placed  on  their  sides,  so  that 
their  mouths  face  the  spectator ;  they 
formerly  contained  a  stone  ball  to 
represent  the  dough.  The  angles  are 
terminated  by  pilasters,  supporting  a 
frieze,  with*  a  band  forming  a  line  of 
round  loaves.  The  frieze  still  retains 
several  fragments  of  interesting  bas- 
reliefs,  representing  the  various  opera- 
tions of  baking,  from  the  carrying 
of  the  corn  to  the  mill  to  the  final 
weighing  and  distribution  of  the  bread. 
On  the  front  is  a  bas-relief,  represent- 
ing the  baker  and  his  wife,  with  a 
sarcophagus  containing  a  represent- 
ation of  a  bread-basket  which  held 
the  ashel^,  and  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :  —  Fvrr  atistia  vxor  mihei  fe- 

MIMA  OPITVMA  VEIXSIT  QVOIVS  CORPORIS 
RCLIQVIAE      QVOD     SVFERANT     SVNT     IN 

HOC  PAN  A  RO.  The  form  of  the  whole 
monument  appears  to  have  been  in- 
tended to  typify  the  ancient  Pana- 
rium,  or  bread-basket,  to  which  opi- 
nion the  concluding  words  of  this 
inscription  give  considerable  weight. 
The  workmanship  indicates  the  first 
age  of  the  empire,  and  very  probably 
the  time  of  Augustus.  Altogether 
the  monument  is  a  valuable  illustra- 
tion of  the  domestic  life  of  the  ancient 
Romans. 

Tomb  of  Bibulus.  —  One  of  the  few 
remaining  monuments  of  republican 
Rome,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the 
Corso,  under  the  north -eastern  angle 
of  the  Capitoline  bill.  It  forms. part 
of  the  wall  of  a  house  in  the  Via  Mar* 
forio.  It  has  been  a  matter  of  dispute 
among  the  antiquaries  whether  this 
tomb  WM9  plaeea  witbia  or  without 


the  walls  of  Servius  Tullius;  it  is  now 
generally  believed  that  it  stood  with- 
out the  walls,  in  accordance  with  the 
usual  custom  in  regard  to  tombs,  and 
that  it  was  close  to  the  ancient  Porta 
Ratumena.  It  is  a  massive  building 
of  two  stories,  in  the  Doric  style,  con* 
structed  of  travertine.  The  lower 
story  is  buried  beneath  the  present 
level ;  the  upper  is  decorated  with  four 
pilasters  diminishing  towards  the  ca- 
pitals; part  of  the  entablature  and 
ornamented  frieze  are  still  standing. 
In  the  centre  is  a  niche  or  doorway, 
with  a  moulded  architrave.  Between 
the  pilasters  is  an  inscription,  record- 
ing that  it  was  erected  at  the  public 
expense  to  C.  Poblicius  Bibulus,  the 
plaebeian  aedile,  "  honoris  virtutisqu& 
causa.**  This  tomb  cannot  be  much 
less  than  2000  years  old. 

Nearly  opposite,  in  the  Via  Mar- 
forio,  are  the  remains  of  another 
sepulchre,  called  the  Tomb  of  the 
Claudian  Family,  It  is  now  a  shape- 
less ruin ;  but  some  subterranean 
vaults  under  die  modern  dwelling  are 
still  visible,  which  evidently  formed 
part  of  the  tomb.  The  Flaminian 
Way  passed  between  these  tombs  in 
its  course  to  the  CapitoL  ' 

Tomb  of  Cacilia  MeteUa,  about  two 
*miles  from  the  Porta  S.  Sebastiano, 
on  the  Appian  Way,  a  short  distance 
beyond  the  circus  of  Romulus;  erected 
nineteen  centuries  ago  to  the  memory 
of  Caecilia  Metella,  the  wife  of  Cras* 
sus,  and  daughter  of  Quintus  Me- 
tellus,  who  obtained  the  surname  of 
Creticus  fof  his  conquest  of  Crete, 
a.c.  66,  This  noble  mausoleum  is 
one  of  the  best  preserved  monuments 
of  Rome,  and  so  great  is  the  solidity 
of  its  construction,  that  it  would  seem 
as  if  it  were  built  for  eternity.  It  stands 
on  the  extremity  of  a  remarkable 
stream  of  lava,  which  is  supposed  to 
have  proceeded  from  some  crater  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Albano.  A  circular 
tower,  near! V  70  feet  in  diameter,  rests 
on  a  quadrangular  basement,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  buried  be- 
neath the  toU.  TVvYiVMAiecckKoX\%^tnsL- 
posed  0?  «cn«\\  «XotL«&  wA  Sx^-^ftsesvx 


itouTR  27. — HOME. — Antidotes  1  TomSs.    CSeetll 


353 

of  lirlck,  strcnjtlhened  hj  large  squnre 
kej-itotiei,  which  project  al  tegolor 
inumli  from  the  mass.  The  eilcrnal 
oosting  wBi  stripped  si  various  lima 
ftir  nuking  Ume.  and  Urbsn  VIII. 
(  Barberini)  removed  the  larger  masses. 
10  ert«t  Ihc  fountain  of  TrecL      The 


ruded  of  m 


they  * 


It  blocks  of  the 
(erllne,  roucli  larger  than 
,  as  each  block  is  divided 


e  squa 


;  they  a 


fitted  togethi 
clEIon,  entirelr  without  cemcnL  It 
ban  B  beautiful  fiieie  and  cornice, 
from  vhich  a  cooical  roof  Is  supposed 
to  have  sprung.  The  battlements 
which  have  usurped  its  place  veie 
built  h;  Boniftce  VIII.  (Gaetanl) 
in  the  ISth  century,  when  the  tomb 
was  converted  into  >  fbrtreis.  Tlic 
(Hen  ii  decorated  with  bai-relleft  in 
white  marble,  representing  fcstoonn 
alternating  with  Imlli'  heads,  from 
whence  the  tower  is  said  to  have  ob- 
tained the  modern  name  of"  Capo  di 
BoTe."  On  a  paiel  belnv  the  frleic, 
on  the  side  of  the  Appisn,  is  the  fol- 
lowinj;   Inscription: — caeciliae    q. 

mediately  over  the  inscription  is  a 
bu-relier,  rq>rescnting  a  trophy ;  on 
one  side  U  a  figure  of  Victory  writing 
upon  a  shieldi  uaderneath  is  a  cap. 
tive  bound,  in  a  sitting  posturB ;  the 
figures  on  the  corresponding  side  ha»e 
been  destniyed.  The  interior  contains 

brick,  eontraeling  aa  il  ascends;  the 
roofbaa  entirely  disappeared,  bill  the 


of  tl 


valla  ] 


The 

chamber  is  only  15  feet,  so  that  the 
walls  ace  upwards  of  25  feet  in  thick, 
ness.  The  sareopha^  of  white 
marble,  now  standing  in  the  court  ol 
the  Farnese  Palace,  was  found  in 
it  in  the  poatiGcaCe  of  Paul  III. 
Niather  the   plunder    of  this   noble 


ihnir  tnrs  with  the  Roman  baiona, 
sa  serioiisSy  injured  it  as  the  siege 
operatiooK  ottbe  Constable  da  Bour- 


bon in  1537.  According  to  the  re- 
port of  the  Marijuis  dc  Uonsparte. 
who  was  ail  eye  witness,  the  Constable 
opened  hii  lint  trench  before  the 
Aurelian  wall,  adjoining  this  tomb, 
which  was  then  as  perfect  as  in  tbe 
days  of  Crassus.  It  closed  the  "street 
of  tombs,"  that  magnificent  succes- 
sion of  sepulchres  which  commenced 
at  the  pyramid  of  Caius  Cestius,  and 
must  liave  been,  «hat  Chalcaubriand 
calls  it,  a  cAi/'-if  lEiiBTt  of  elegance  and 
taste.  Lord  Byron's  description  of 
this  tomb,  in  the  fourth  canto  of 
"  Cbilde  Harold,"  is  one  of  those  elo- 
quent bursts  of  feeling  which  appeal 
irresistibly  to  the  heart  It  is  im. 
possible  to  describe  the  interest  with 
which  his  genius  has  invested  the 
monuments  of  Home,  even  to  the 
most  indifferent  of  English  travel. 
lers;  and  there  are  Few  who  will  not 
agree  in  the  remark  of  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  that  "  [he  voice  of  Mariu* 
could  not  sound  more  deep  and  so- 
lemn among  the  ruined  atchei  of 
Carthage,  than  the  strains  of  the  pil- 
grim amid  the  broken  shrines  Sod 
Mien  statues  of  her  subducr," 


Ticgkzl  Siaies.']     r.  27,  —  rome.  — Amiquities  ;  Tombs. 


359 


That  freighM  upon  her  gentle  dust,  a  cloud 
Might  gather  o*er  her  beauty,  and  a  gloom 
In  tier  dark  eye,  prophetic  of  the  doom 
Heaven  ^res  it*  favourites— early  death ; 

yet  shed 
A  sunset  charm  around  her,  and  illuree 
With  hectic  light,  the  Hesperus  of  the  dead. 
Of  her  consuming  cheek  the  autumnal  leaf- 
like red. 

Perchance  she  died  in  age  —  surviving  all. 
Charms,  kindred,  children— with  the  silver 

gray 
On  her  long  tresses,  which  might  yet  recall, 
It  may  be,  still  a  something  of  the  day 
When  they  were  braided,  and  her  proud 

array 
And  lovely  form  were  envied,  praised,  and 

eyed 
By  Rome—  but  whither  would  Conjecture 

stray  ? 
Thus  much  alone  we  know— Metella  died. 
The  wealthiest  Roman's  wife:  Behold  his 

love  or  pride!" 

Adjoining  the  tomb  are  the  exten- 
sive ruins  of  the  Gaetani  fortress.    As 
early  as    the  beginning  of  the  1 3th 
century  the  Savelli  faniily  had  con- 
verted the  ruin  into  a  stronghold ;  the 
Gaetani,  before  the  close  of  the  cen- 
tury, obtained  possession  of  it,  and 
built  those  towers  and  battlemented 
walls  which  now  form,  from   many 
points  of  view,  a  ruin  scarcely  less 
picturesque  than  the  massive  tomb 
itself.     The  bulls*  heads,  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  Gaetani,  are  still  visible 
on  the  wallS)  and  are  more  likely  to 
have  given  rise  to  the  modem  name 
of  the  ruin  than  the  ornaments  of  the 
ftieze.     The  ruined  Chapel,  with  its 
round  window,  bears  a  considerable 
resemblance  to  many  of  our  English 
churches  of  the  same  period.      It  was 
founded  in  1296  by  the  Gaetani  family, 
who  seem  to  have  converted  the  lo- 
cality into  a  colony  of  their  depend- 
ants.     On  a  wall  adjoining  the  tomb 
are  some  fragments  of  a  marble  monu- 
ment, discovered  in  1 824,  and  appa- 
rently belonging  to  a  tomb  similar  in 
form  to  that  of  Caecilia  Metella.    The 
pavement  of  the  Appian  Way,  which 
is  remarkably  perfect  at  this  spot,  was 
laid  open  at  the  same  time.    There  is 
a  subterranean  passage  leading  from 
the  fortress  to  the  catacombs,  which  is 
supposed  to  have  been  constructed  by 
the  Gaetani.    Near  this  tomb  are  the 
qumrrieB  ofUvM  which  hare  furniBhed 


the  greater  part  of  the  paving-stones  of 
ancient  and  modem  Rome.  The  lava 
of  Capo  di  Bove>  the  silex  of  Pliny,  a 
very  different  substance  from  the  tilex 
of  the  modems,  is  celebrated  among^ 
mineralogists  as  containing  many  in- 
teresting minerals — Mellilite,  Breisla- 
kite,  Pseudo-Nepheline,  Comptonite, 
Gesmondite,  &c. :  of  which  the  scien- 
tific traveller  will  see  some  fine  speci- 
mens at  Rome  in  the  Sapienza,  and  in 
the  cabinet  of  M onsignore  de*  Medici- 
Spada,  one  of  the  most  distinguished 
mineralogists  of  the  present  day. 

Pyramid  of  Caius  Cestiugf  the  only- 
pyramid  in  Rome,  situated  near  the 
Porta  San  Paolo,  at  the  foot  of  Monte 
Testaccio.    The  spot  is  well  known  to 
every  English  traveller  as  the  Protest- 
ant burial-ground.    The  monument  is 
partly  within  and  partly  without  the 
walls  of  Aureliau,  who  embodied  it  in 
his  line  of  fortifications.     It  is  a  mas- 
sive pyramid  of  brick  and  tufa,  covered 
externally  with  slabs  of  white  Luna 
(Carrara)  marble,  a  foot  in  thickness* 
and  two  feet  high,  now  perfectly  black 
with  age.    It  stands  on  a  square  base- 
ment of  travertine  three  feet   high. 
The  height  of  the  monument  is  125 
feet,  the  breadth  at  the  base  100  feet. 
The  walls'are  nearly  25  feet  in  thick- 
ness. In  the  centre  is  a  small  chamber* 
17^  Roman  feet  by  13,  and  14  feet 
high,  with  a   stucco   ceiling  covered 
with    arabesques,   which    were    first 
brought  to  light  by  Ottavio  Falco- 
nieri,  and  described  by  him  in  his 
learned  dissertation  annexed  to  the 
work  of  Nardini.     These  arabesques 
excited  great  interest  before  the  dis- 
covery of  the  Pompeii  paintings:  they 
still  retain  their  original  brightness  of 
colour,  though  somewhat  injured  by 
the  smoke  of  torches,  and  represent 
four  female  figures  surrounding  a  Vic- 
tory, with  vases  and  candelabra.    The 
entrance  is  in  the  centre.     At  the  an- 
gles are  two  fluted  columns  of  white 
marble,  of  the  Doric  order,  discovered 
in  the  excavations  of  1663.     At  the 
other  angles  two  pedestals  with  in- 
scriptions wete  foxxTid^  'v\iv^  «x^  TkOi^ 
preserved  m  ihe  m>]Ae>xiSLol  ^^  C«^v- 


ROITTB  97— -Houx. — Antiquitia 


s   opini 


The 


Mitt  H  gn  the  southern  fronl.  facing 
the  nwd  to  Oitia.  the  ancient  Via  Lau- 

the  pTramid  in  ^SOdays.  The  letters 
BTB  eonodenbly  smaller  than  tbose  of 
the   fbnner   inKriptian  : — orvs.  ab- 

monument  »  supposed  to  be  of  Ihe 
age  of  Auguitiu.  Caiiu  Cegtiiu  is 
proTcd  bjr  these  inscriptions  to  have 
been  of  Ihe  Poblirian  tribe,  a  prtelor,  a 
tribnne  of  th^  people,  and  one  of  the 
■even  epulonen,  appointed  to  prepare 
Ihe  banquets  for  the  goda  at  publle 
solemnities.  He  was,  probably,  the 
penon  mentioned  by  Cicero  in  his 
letter  to  Attlcus  from  Ephesus,  and  in 
hii  oration  for  Flaccus.  In  the  17lh 
century  the  baw  of  the  pyramid  was 
burled  under  16  feet  of  soil.  It  was 
olesred  and  repaireil  in  1 6S3  by  Alex- 
ander VII.,  OK  recorded  by  an  inscrip- 
tion placed  beneath  those  already  men- 
tioned, and  was  thrown  open  to  the 
road  by  Gregory  XVI. 

Tonib  of  St.  Conrtoaft'a,  beyond  the 
Porta  Pin,  near  the  church  of  S.  ijg- 
□esei  erected byConstantinelhe Great 
to  eontwn  the  superb  sarcophagus  of 
porphyry,  now  in  the  museum  of  the 
Vatican,  and  in  which  the  ashes  of  his 
ibughter  were  deposited.  The  tomb 
ii  a  circular  building,  decorated  with 
mosaics.  It  was  supposed  by  the 
older  antiquaries  to  have  been  ori- 
pnally  intended  as  a  baptistery  for 
the  church  of  S.  Agncse.  It  has  also 
been  considered  to  be  older  than  the 
time  of  Constanline,  chiefly  on  the 
eridervce  afforded  by  the  capitals  of 
tiie  double  Corinthian  columns  which 
suppnrt  the  dome.  Hut  the  archi- 
tfctare  is  not  sufficiently  pure  to  give 


construction  and  Ftylc  of  ihe  editice 
seem  conclusively  to  indicate  tb 
cline   of  art    under    Constanlini 
whom  Ihe  building  it  no  doubt  cor- 
rectly referred.    It  was  converted 
a  church  by  Alexander  IV. 

Tbmbnflhs  Empreit  Si.  Htlena,  be- 
yond the  Porta  Maggiore.  It  it 
called  the  Torre  Pignaltars,  from  the 
pignatte,  or  earthen  pots,  which  a 
seen  in  the  roof.  The  tradition  of  the 
church,  from  the  time  of  Bede  an^ 
Aiiaatatius,  has  pointed  out  this  ruined 
mausoleum  as  the  tomb  of  the  'E.m- 
press  Helena.  There  is  indeed  no 
doubt  of  the  tact  that  the  well-known 
porphyry  sarcophagus  in  the  Vatican 
was  removed  from  the  rum  hy  A 
Utius  IV.,  and  deposited  in  St.  John 
Lateian,  whence  it  was  transferred 
to  the  Vatican  by  Pins  VI.  Tt 
mains  now  visible  are  those  of  a  targe 
circular  hall,  with  walls  of  great  tbick- 
ness.  In  the  intcgpr  are  eight  nicbes. 
From  inscriptions  still  preserred,  it 
appears  that  Ihe  spot  was  cither  thi 
camp  or  the  cemetery  of  the  Equitea 
Siogularea,  from  the  second  to  the 
fourth  century  of  our  era.  One  of 
these  inscriptions,  on  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  with  a  curious  baa-relief  of 
a  deceased  knight  and  his  page,  besn 
the  name  of  Aug.  Claudius  Vlrunnii 
■■  Nat.  Nojic,"  supposed  hy  Cluve  ■ 
to  have  been  an  ancestor  of  the  ei 
iog  German  family  of  Volckmark 

The  Mimofeun  of  Hadrian,  now 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  the  celebrated 
^rtreas  of  Papal  Rome.  This  n 
sire  edifice  was  erected  by  HadtUn. 
about  &.  n.  130,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Tiber,  within  the  gaidens  of  Bo- 
milia,  the  aunt  of  Nero.  The  idea 
was  probably  suggested  by  the  man 
soleum  of  Augustus,  which  stood  o 
theopposite  bank  ofthe  river,  but  the 
construction  of  the  building  bean 
ample  proof  uf  Hadrian's  acquaint- 
ance with  the  pyramids  of  Egypt- 


hidb.    , 


a  Egjpfi  irila, 
[U  cwn\tt,  fR  ti^AtaaJA.^, 


Pti^StaieB.']    souTs27.^ — rome. — AfUiquiHes;  Tombs.     361 


\  model,  doom'd  the  artist's  t<rfls 
Td  build  for  giants,  and  for  his  vain  earth, 
His  shrunlceii  ashes,  raise  this  dome !  How 

smiles 
The  gaser*s  eye  with  philosophic  mirth. 
To  view  the  huge  design  whien  sprung  flrom 
sucbaMrth!" 

The  tomb  was  probably  completed 
by  Antoninus  Pius,  who  removed  the 
ashes  of  the  emperor  from  Puteoli, 
where  they  had  been  deposited  in  a 
temporary  sepulchre  in  Cioero*s  villa. 
Hadrian  died  at  Baiie,  but  we  know 
that  he  was  buried  here  from  the  au- 
thority of  Dion  Cassius,  who  says  that 
he  was  interred  near  the  JElian  bridge, 
in  a  tomb  which  he  had  himself 
erected.  After  the  time  of  Hadrian 
it  became  the  sepulchre  of  the  Anto- 
iiines  and  of  many  of  their  successors 
down  to  the  time  of  Caracalla.  An« 
tmitnus  Pius  was  buried  here  a.  d.  1 61 ; 
Marcus  Aurelius,  180;  Commodus, 
192  ;  Septimius  Sercrus,  211  ;  Geta, 
212  ;  and  Caracalla,  a.  d.  217.  It  is 
a  massive  circular  tower,  188  feet  in 
diameter,  built  of  solid  peperino,  and 
standing  on  a  square  basement,  each 
side  of  which  is  253  feet  in  length. 
Procopius,  who  saw  it  in  the  sixth  cen- 
tury, before  it  was  despoiled,  is  the 
oldest  writer  by  whom  it  is  mentioned. 
His  description  still  affords  a  better 
idea  of  the  original  structure  than  any 
eonjectural  restorations.  *<  It  is  built," 
he  says,  **  of  Parian  marble ;  the  square 
blocks  fit  closely  to  each  other  with- 
out any  cement  It  has  four  equal 
sides,  each  a  stone's  throw  in  length. 
In  height  it  rises  above  the  walls  of 
the  city.  On  the  summit  are  statues 
of  men  and  horses,  of  admirable  work- 
manship, in  Parian  marble."  He  goes 
on  to  state  that  it  had  been  converted 
into  a  fortress  considerably  before  his 
time,  but  without  injury  to  the  de- 
corations ;  and  he  tells  us,  in  a  re- 
markable passage,  that  in  the  subse- 
quent wars  against  the  Goths  the 
statues  were  torn  from  their  pedestals 
by  the  besieged,  and  thrown  down 
upon  their  assailants.  The  first  for- 
tress dates  probably  from  the  time  of 
Honoriust  A.  D.423.  In  the  wan  of 
Omi,  M, 


Justinian  we  know  tliat  it  was  suc- 
cessively in  the  fflmds  of  the  Goths  and 
the  Greeks,  and  that  it  at  length  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  Exarchs  as 
the  citadel  of  Rome.  At  the  close  of 
the  sixth  century,  according  to  the 
Church  tradition,  while  Gregory  the 
Great  was  engaged  in  a  procession  to 
St.  Peter's  for  the  purpose  of  offering 
up  a  solemn  service  to  avert  the  pes- 
tilence which  followed  the  inundation 
of  589,  the  Archangel  Michael  ap- 
peared to  him  in  a  vision  standing  on 
the  summit  of  the  fortress,  in  the  act 
of  sheathing  his  sword,  to  signify  that 
the  plague  was  stayed.  In  comme- 
moration of  this  event  the  pope  erected 
a  chapel  on  the  summit,  which  was 
subsequently  superseded  by  a  statue 
of  the  archangeL  The  name  of  St. 
Angelo  was  of  course  derived  from  this 
circumstance,  but  it  was  not  applied 
for  many  centuries  after  the  event. 
In  the  tenth  century  the  mausoleum 
was  the  fortress  of  Theodora  and  Ma- 
rozia,  and  was  the  scene  of  many  of 
those  events  which  have  made  their 
names  infiimous  in  history.  John  X 1 1., 
the  gmndson  of  the  latter,  about  a.  d. 
955,  was  the  first  pope  who  occupied 
it  as  a  place  of  military  strength.  In 
985  it  was  seized  by  Crescenzio  No- 
mentano,  the  consul,  who  increased 
the  fortifications  to  defend  himself 
against  the  emperor,  Otho  III.,  who 
had  marched  an  army  into  Home  in 
defence  of  the  pope.  From  this  usurper 
it  acquired  the  title  of  the  Castello  di 
Crescenzio,  under  which  name  it  b 
described  by  several  old  writers.  The 
history  of  the  fortress  from  this  time 
would  be  little  less  than  an  epitome 
of  the  history  of  Rome  from  the  tenth 
century,  through  the  troubles  of  the 
middle  ages.  It  will  be  sufficient  to 
mention  that  in  the  eleventh  and  twelfth 
centuries  it  was  held  by  the  Orsini. 
It  b  supposed  to  have  been  reduced 
to  its  present  form  in  1378,  when  it 
was  occupied  by  the  French  cardinals 
who  opposed  the  election  of  Urban 
VI.  Boniface  IX.  repaired  the  for- 
tress, «nd  Kk«\«cA«t  N\.  v^^^a^) 


r 


iiitki 


Dtmbi.    CSeGb-ll 


If  isnoji 


I 


Mul  Blrcn^cned  Uift>iiu  by  erecting 
ttw  bulvark  of  triiertine  between  it 
knd  Ibe  bridge;  he  complclvd  the 
noTeieil  BBllerj'  IVom  the  cnstle  to  thi 
VMiMO,  begun  by  John  XXIII.  on 
tb*  tbumUtkiiu  of  the  Leonine  vails. 
Ilrbw  Vm.  (B>rbBrini),*.i..l6M. 
•ddcd  acooftotbisgallerf.conitructed 
the  immense  outirocki  of  the  fortress 
Avid  the  Ueslgntof  Bernini,  and  cnm- 
ph)(«il  Ihe  fortilicalions  by  furnithing 
ibcm  with  cannnn  cast  out  of  the 
ImnM  if  the  Fantheon.  TheancienI 
purtion  of  tbe  building,  as  we  naw 
•re  it,  tnay  I'asiiy  be  diitlnguished 
Trom  these  additions  of  the  fopa. 
AH  Ote  upper  part  of  the  building 
is  modem.  Tlie  aacient  basement 
vai  ludopen  on  one  side  in  18'25,  ani] 
found  to  consist  of  peperino  mixed 
with  htick-work.  About  the  same 
t'tne  Moatntians  were  comiaenced  in 

with  very  iuli'resting  results.      It  vras 

MDtaincd  two  snudl  sepulchral  cbara- 
bera  in  the  centre,  and  that  tbe  ancient 
ilourway  was  placed  immedintely  op- 
poiile  the  bridge.  Tliese  chamben 
vers  approubed  by  spiral  passages  or 
corridors.  We  may  now  desceoil.  with 
the  aid  of  tarches,  by  these  pasiiages, 
to  tbe  original  entrance;  The  passages 
lire  thirty  feet  high  and  eteten  feet 
broad  ;  tbcy  are  Iniilt  of  brick  in  tbe 
very  best  style,  and  ^lill  retain  ttaeet  of 
tlieir  marble  fiioing  and  some  fragments 
of  the  white  mosaic  with  which  tliey 
were  paietl.  They  were  ligbtcd  by 
tiro  perpeodiculBr  pyrHmidal  apcr- 
torvs,  whicli  serve  to  show  the  enor- 
mous thicknest  of  the  walls.  The 
entrance  is  a  ronssive  and  very  lolly 
arehof  travertine.  Opposite  tbe  door- 
way i»  a  niche  which  probably  con- 
tained B  statue,  as  the  colosanl  bead  of 
Hadrian,  now  in  the  Vatican,  was 
fiiund  here.  The  sepulchral  chamber 
i<  lighted  by  two  windows  pcrlbmted 
ui  tbe  thickness  of  the  walls.  Th« 
exatvatlons  have  laid  opi'n  a  portion 
of  the  ancient  level,  and  tbe  lateral 
iiicbes  are  seen   by   dEsceii41ng  into 


ihecellslwneslhlhesleps.  Tbework- 
manship  is  of  the  best  kind  :   the  im. 
mcnse  blocks  are  fined  with  tbe  ut- 
most nicely,  and  yet  Ihe  holes  vi^lc 
ill  the  walls,  and  the  rich  ornaments 
covered  in  tbe  eicavatious,  prove 
t  Ihey  were  covered  with  marble.' 
Among  the  objecti  found  at  mrions 
«  amoDg  the  ruios  we  may  meir 
the  large  granite  sarcophagus  atid 
the  bust  of  Hadrian,  in  the  Valioan; 
is  Barberini  Faun,  now  at  Munich; 
le   Dancing    Faun  of  Ihe    Flureneo 
Gallery  j  and  the  porphyry  urn  in  the 
'^leran,  removed  by  Innocent  II.  for 
lis  own  tomh.     In  tbe  modem  part  of 
he  building,  tlie  saloon,  painted  in 
fresco  by  Perino  del  Vaga,  is  almost 
>nly  object  Id  be  partSeularly  no- 
~  '  '     iF  the  caitla 


le  of  i: 

this  side  of  Rome, — there  is  no  poiU 
(Vom  which  the  gigauljc  nuss  of  St. 
Peter's  and  the  Vatican  is  serai  to  so 
much  advantage.  The  bronie  Motue 
of  the  archangel  was  cast  by  the 
Flemish  sculptor  Wenwhefcld  for 
Benedict  XIV.  Hie  celebrated  gi, 
randala,  displayed  liom  tlie  eastleat 
Easter,  and  at  the  feast  of  St.  Pel« 
and  SL  Paul,  on  Ihe  SSth  and  99th  of 
June,  is  the  jirandest  exhibition  of 
firen-urks  in  the  world  ;  each  of  the 
two  great  discharges,  to  which  this 
term  is  prf»perly  ^plied, 
tlian  4500  rockets. 


of  Si 


Angek 


s  for  I 


prison  of  Ihe  papal  governmeatj 
ami  although  in  recent  times  pcMiMl 
offenders  have  been  sent  also  to  Cirita 
Castellana,  the  most  important  pri- 
soners of  state  are  still  conf  '  ' 
The  castle  will  hold  150 
but  tliere  are  seldom  half  tli 
actually  confined.  Tbe  Bttenglh  of  the 
castle  as  a  military  posidou  is  by  ]n> 
means  remarkable,  and  it  is  consiikred 
by  engineers  to  be  quite  incapable  of 
defence  agninst  the  improved  system  of 
modern  warfare.  Never'  '  ' 
tbe  troubles  of  the  firs 
sion  it  had  nearly  become  signalised 
ib^  an  ttoti  rX  \nio\m\  ^tiwh 
,  \Q  \je  tetotiei.  'SetQte'Ctiid 


Pipai  SicUet,^    route  27. — VLOME.-'^Aniiquiiies  ;   Tombs.    363 


bunt  upon  Rome,  the  late  Captain 
Ffjrffer,  the  commander  of  the  Swiss 
guard,  by  whose  family  the  captaincy 
of  that  celebrated  corps  bad  been  held 
for  at  least  200  years,  entreated  the 
pope  to  allow  him  to  defend  the  castle 
against  the  army  of  France.  The  pope 
wisely  declined  the  offer,  for  those 
who  knew  the  gallant  descendant  of 
the  family  of  Altishofen  were  con- 
vinced that  he  would  have  blown  up 
the  fortress  rather  than  surrender.  It 
is  necessary  to  obtain  permission  to 
sec  the  interior  of  the  castle :  this  is 
seldom  refused  on  application  to  the 
governor,  who  appoints  an  officer  to 
aecompany  the  stranger  through  the 
different  parts  of  the  fortress. 

Tomb  of  Plantius,  on  the  road  to 
Tivoli,  close  to  the  Ponte  Lucano. 
This  picturesque  ruin  combines  so 
happily  with  ihe  bridge,  that  it  has 
long  been  one  of  the  favourite  subjects 
of  the  landscape  artists  of  all  coun- 
tries. It  resembles  the  tomb  of  Cce- 
cilia  Metella  in  form  and  structure, 
being  a  circular  building  constructed 
of  large  blocks  of  travertine.  It  ap- 
pears to  have  been  surrounded  at  the 
lower  part  with  a  series  of  engaged 
columns ;  some  of  them  still  remain, 
with  two  inscriptions  between  them  ; 
one  to  M.  Plautius  Silvanus,  the 
tribune ;  the  other  to  Titus  Plautius 
Silvanus,  who  accompanied  Claudius 
on  his  eipedition  to  Britain.  The 
battlemented  walls  at  the  summit 
were  added  by  Pius  II.,  who  con- 
verted the  ruin  into  a  fortress  in  the 
]5th  century. 

Tomb  of  the  Scipio»,  in  a  vine- 
yard near  the  Porta  S.  Sebastiano, 
on  the  left  of  the  Appian,  marked 
by  a  solitary  cypress  tree,  the  most 
ancient  and  the  most  interesting  of 
all  the  tombs  yet  discovered.  In 
1615  an  inscription  on  red  peperino, 
now  in  the  Barberini  palace,  was  dis- 
covered  on  this  spot,  bearing  the 
name  of  Lucius  Scipio,  son  of  Scipio 
Uarbatus.  At  that  time  it  was  sup- 
posed that  the  tomb  was  situated  on 
another    part   of   the   Appian,    and 


Maffei  and  other  antiquaries  of  the 
period  did  not  hesitate  to  pronounce 
the  inscription  a  forgery.  In  178(^ 
another  inscription  was  dug  up  ac- 
cidentally on  the  same  spot,  which 
left  no  doubt  that  the  sepulchre  of 
the  illustrious  fomily  was  not  far  dis- 
tant. Further  excavations  were  com- 
menced, and  the  tomb  and  its  sarco- 
phagi were  brought  to  light,  after 
having  been  undisturbed  for  upwards 
of  one  and  twenty  centuries.  Several 
recesses  or  chambers  were  discovered, 
irregularly  excavated  in  the  tufa,  with 
six  sarcophagi  and  numerous  inscrip- 
tions. The  ancient  entrance  was 
found  opposite  to  the  modem  one, 
and  facing  the  Via  Latina :  it  has  a 
solid  arch  constructed  of  eleven  blocks 
of  peperino,  resting  on  half  columns 
of  the  same  material,  and  supporting 
a  jjlain  moulding.  Upon  this  rests 
the  base  of  a  Doric  column,  indicating 
a  second  story.  In  one  of  the  recesses 
was  found  the  celebrated  sarcophagus 
of  coarse  peperino,  bearing  the  name 
of  L.  Scipio  Barbatus,  now  in  the 
Vatican,  and  well-known  in  all  parts 
of  the  world  by  numerous  models. 
The  chambers  now  contain  nothing 
beyond  the  inscriptions  attached  to 
the  different  recesses  in  the  place  of 
the  originals,  which  have  been  trans- 
ferred  to  the  Vatican,  together  with 
the  sarcophagi  and  a  laurelled  bust, 
long  supposed  to  be  that  of  Ennius. 

"The  Scipio*'  tomb  contains  no  ashet  now ; 
The  very  sepulchres  lie  tcnantlets 
or  their  heroic  dweUers." 

ChiUe  Harold, 

In  one  part  of  the  tomb  some  addi- 
tions of  brick-work  may  be  recog- 
nised, with  some  works  of  a  later 
period.  Several  inscriptions  bearing 
the  names  of  persons  having  no  coti- 
nexion  with  the  Scipio  family  have 
also  been  discovered,  which  are  con* 
sidered  to  prove  that  the  sepulchre 
was  used  by  intruders  in  the  time  of 
the  empire.  It  must  not  be  forgotten 
that  Scipio  Africanus  was  not  buried 
here,  but  at  Liternum,  where  he  died« 
This  toroib  -ww  «Xi\^  '^\s&Vs^Vi^  Vj 

1^% 


R0UT12T. — ^BOMR — Aitti']tnSeg ;  Cehimhatia.      fSect.f* 


» 


I^Tsnei!  in  1TS5,  anJ  tins  burn  >uh- 
mguentlf  dmcrilicil  li;  lanii,  Vlt- 
Mali.  *nd  oilier  learned  ircliBolo- 
uitl.  The  Columbarium  of  CdcIus 
pompanlui  Hjrlos,  and  uf  romponia 
Vilalink,  in  Ibu  Tineyard,  u  dnecibed 
under  ib>t  head  in,  the  not  page 
Te^oflhe  &nri/.';,  on  the  Ap| 
■bout  two  mlln  bL-yond  tlie  ton 
Cmilia  Metelto.  It  v/m  discoveTsd 
and  roloced  by  Cnnovs  in  1806. 
(bllow-iDg  ii  the  inscription  n 
identiSed  the  tumb  with  this  I 
trioui  republican  famity  :  —  H. 


CoDpHuit,  Pi  I  mil* 
Opposite  the  church  of  Doniinc  Quo 


another 
mb,  long  conKidered  lo  be  that  of  llie 
ipios  before  the  real  sepulchi 
BCovered.  It  is  Btirmounted  by  b 
ver  of  tiie  middle  ages.  It  appears 
have  Iwen  a  circuiar  building  (aeeil 
Livi  .  qvABTia  ,  Da  .  iva.  fecvkia.  •  '  villi  Iravertinc,  and  stauda 
err.  I  square  basement.       It   had 

Miwr  T<mbi  on  tht  Appian.  —  Of  niches  fur  statues  and  a  rirculs 
all  the  approaeliea  to  Home,  the  Ap-    About  half  a  luilc  beyond 
pun  mu  the  moat  remarkable  fur  the    San    Sebailiano     is   a   mauiie   i 
number  and  brilliancy  of  the  scpul-  I  called  the  T«mb  af  Haratia  ,  but 
ehral    monumenti    which    lined    the    construelion  of  the  building  and 

like  those  nhlcb  ve  sec  in  the    frafcments  nf  marble  and  ornamenli 


e  Porta 


;  Ponipei 
Uany  of  these  arc  non'  mere  mavn 
aTlirick-ffurk.  which  have  deBed  Ih 
L  iBgODuity  of  the  Itoman  antiquariei 
r-^iejr  arc  consequently  vithout  rvime 
^^And  as  they  all  bear  a  alTOiig  genen 
I  Mxemblance,  it  vill  be  unnecessary 
lo  )[■*■  a  panicutar   de» 


e  be. 


found 


I.  Them 


upon   the  Appisu,  recorded   by  the   ] 
Latinwrilers,  are  (hoseorthc  Scipio.1,   i 
Cscilia    Aletella,    Ihe    Sercilii 
Calatinus.      In  the  Tuseulan 
putatiniia,    Cicero  alludes  to  them  it 
thefollo*-- 


to  sliow  that  it  vas  an  in>l>crial 
indeed  then.'  is  scarcely  a  ruin  < 
Tosd  to  which  Ihe  name  of  Horatim 
has  not  been  applied. 

Coltunbatia.—On  all  the  great 
□f  ancient  Home  eonsiderable 

I  foundi  partloularly  on  the  Appiunaolt 


n  Wi 


■lliBi 


imilarity  to  each  other,  iliat  the  de~ 
Bcription  of  one  will,  with  lew  eieep-i 
lions,  apply  to  all.  They  were  oalle4 
Columbaria,  from  the  rows  of  litd« 
When  you  niches,  resembling  the  holes  of  * 
_^  Porta  Capena,  and  see  pigeon-house.  These  niches  contained 

Iho  lorabs  of  Calatinus,  the  Scipios,  the  gUr,  or  urns,  in  which  the  silw) 
tha  Serfilii,  and  the  Metelli.  can  you  '  of  the  dead  were  deponiled.  In  aotnc 
consider  that  the  buried  inmates  are' cases  the  namesarc  found  on  theum^ 
unhappy  ?  "  The  only  one  of  the  four  j  but  they  are  more  generally  mel 
■till  undiworered  is  diat  of  Calatinu* ;  in  inscriptions  placed  over  then 
the  others  have  been  clearly  iden-  Tliese  Columbaria,  from  their  con< 
tlHed  and  described.  On  each  side  ofl  strucllon,  were  capable  of  canlaimni 
the  road  are  several  ruins  of  minor  j  the  remains  of  large  numbers  at  pen 
tombs  of  which  nothing  is  knownjlsons:  they  were  particularly  set  apan 
and  no  ligbt  probably  will  noir  be  j  for  Ihe  slaves  and  freedmen,  and  wen_^ 
thrown  upon  them.  There  is  one.  |  usually  built  near  the  tombs  of  thdji 
however,  close  to  the  classical  stream  i  masters.  The  following  are  the  im 
which  still  retains  the  namo  of  the  remarkable :  _ 
"brerixiimui  Alma,"  which  has  been  |  Coliip,bi,ri«m  m  tht  Villa  di  Lvxxa 
toiiaidered  Ibe  Taiab  of  Priicitla,  tbe  aL\HiaVt>MC  a  mvU  bvyund  the  I'o: 
~-ifn  of  Abaacaatius,  which  U  kiwirni  Fia,  on  ttie  ii^Xiv.  ot  v\«  ^''^b.    "^ 


Papal  Siaie$.2     R«  27. — home. — Antiquities  ;  Aqueducts.    S6J 


is  the  most  perfect  Columbarium  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Rome :  it  has 
been  preserved  by  the  accidental  cir- 
cumstance which  kept  it  so  long  con- 
cealed, having  been  buried  for  cen- 
turies under  the  accumulation  of  soil. 
It  consists  of  a  square  chamber  of 
travertine  ornamented  with  a  cornice : 
it  had  three  marble  sarcophagi  co- 
vered with  bas-reliefs  of  remarkable 
workmanship,  and  still  containing 
skdet<ms  which  have  been  placed  in 
the  Lateran  Museum.  An  upper 
chamber,  supposed  to  have  been  cir- 
cular, has  entirely  disappeared.  The 
masonry  of  the  existing  fragment  is 
of  the  best  kind,  but  nothing  has 
been  discovered  which  will  enable 
us  to  fix  the  date  of  its  construc- 
tion. 

Cchmbarium  in  the  ViUa  PamfiH- 
2>orta.— A  very  interesting  and  exten- 
sive series  of  sepulchral  chambers  were 
discovered  a  few  years  back  in  the 
grounds  of  this  villa,  but  to  the  regret 
of  all  the  antiquaries  they  liave  re- 
cently been  destroyed.  The  inscrip- 
tions, however,  have  been  collected 
and  preserved  in  the  park.  Several 
tombs,  marking  the  line  of  the  Au- 
relian  Way,  were  found  near  the  Co- 
lumbarium. 

ColumbariuM  of  the  Slaves  of  Auput- 
tuMt  on  the  Appian,  now  partly  con- 
cealed by  the  vineyard.  It  had  three 
chambers,  one  of  which  contained  six 
rows  of  niches  for  urns.  Several  in- 
scriptions were  found,  but  most  of 
them,  together  with  the  sculptures  and 
marbles,  have  been  removed.  Three 
plates  of  this  Columbarium  have  been 
published  by  Piranesi. 

Columbarium  of  the  Liberti  of  Lima, 
also  situated  on  the  Appian,  in  the  last 
vineyard  on  the  left  hand  before  we 
descend  to  the  church  of  St.  Sebastian. 
It  was  discovered  in  1726,  and  was 
justly  considered  by  the  antiquaries  as 
a  valuable  relic  ;  but  it  has  been  re- 
cently destroyed,  and  no  trace  of  the 
building  now  exixts.  It  is  well  known 
by  the  works  of  Gorio  and  Piranesi ; 
the  latter  published  upwards  of  SOO 
inscripdottM  ibund  mmong  the  mini. 


most  of  which  may  now  be  seen  in  the 
Vatican  and  Capitoline  museums* 

Columbarium  of  Cneivs  Pomponiu$ 
Hplas,  and  of  Pomponia  VitcJina,  in  the 
same  vineyard  which  contains  the 
tomb  of  Scipio.  It  was  discovered  in 
1830  almost  in  an  entire  state.  An 
inscription  in  mosaic  records  the  names 
of  the  fou  nders.  The  d  ifferent  objects 
found  here,  the  ollae  and  the  inscrip* 
tions  and  a  lamp,  have  been  judiciously 
allowed  to  remain  in  their  originiu 
positions ;  the  only  thing  removed  is 
a  remarkable  glass  vessel  now  in  the 
Vatican  library,  which  has  been  re* 
placed  by  an  exact  copy  of  modem 
workmansliip.  The  inscriptions,  which 
are  very  numerous,  refer  chiefly  to  the 
time  of  Augustus  and  Tiberius.  The 
interior  is  partly  painted  with  ara* 
besques.  Altogether  this  columbarium 
is  one  of  the  most  instructive  which 
the  stranger  has  an  opportunity  of 
examining. 

Columbarium  of  Lucius  Arruntius, 
&c.  —  Between  the  Porta  Maggiore 
and  the  temple  of  Minerva  Medicaare 
two  Columbaria  situated  one  on  each 
side  of  the  road.  That  on  the  left  liaad 
was  constructed  (a.d.  6)  by  Lw  Ar- 
runtius,  the  consul,  to  receive  the 
ashes  of  his  freedmen  and  slaves,  as  we 
learn  by  an  inscription  found  over  the 
entrance  in  1736.  It  has  two  small 
subterranean  chambers  with  cinerary 
urns.  The  other  is  supposed  to 
have  belonged  to  different  plebeian 
fiimilies  :  it  consists  of  a  single  cham* 
her,  decorated  with  stucco  ornaments 
on  the  walls,  and  a  painted  ceiling. 
It  has  been  preserved  entire,  and  the 
urns  and  the  inscriptions  may  still  be 
seen  in  their  original  positions. 

Aquxdccts. 

No  monuments  of  ancient  Rome  are 
at  once  so  picturesque  and  so  stupen* 
dous  as  the  Aqueducts,  and  many  tra- 
vellers are  more  impressed  with  the 
grandeur  of  their  gigantic  arches,  be- 
striding the  desolate  plain  of  the  Cam- 
pagna,  than  ^vl\i  ixc]  Wvxm^  V\^\xw 

1^^ 


866 


KcmTM  VT. -^KOME.— AnHgttilieg  1  Aytteduelg,    ^Sect>'l 


BiiRed 


With 


pniici|uil  ancient  icj 

Ibe  execptioa  of  the  li  i 

of  all  of  IheiD  slUI  leuiBin. 

1.  Agtu  Jppia,  the  linit  xiueduct  in 
Bomci  GooMruclcd  l>y  Appius  Dhu' 
dim  Chus,  1.  c.  313,  Rtiur  the  can)- 
plMion  of  hii  Appiim  Way.  It  liad  ita 
tsurSB  nesr  Palettrina.  and  wan  en- 
■iioly  niblemuean,  eicupt  ■  Bmall 
portion  near  the  PdtU  Gipenm.  No 
tra«M  me  now  visible. 

9.  Amio  Vtlia,  vomttucied  by  Alan- 

UuR  Curiu*   DeiitaLiu.  ■.  a.  37S.      Il 

hxl  ill  louree  aborc  Tltoli,  and  pur- 

B  course  oT  43  milei  lo  lliB  walls 

me:  oiilj  S91  paces  ware  above 

■d.       The   only    frogoieut    now 

a  ia  this  very  porlioa  nt'or  the 

f  f*na  Uaggiore, 

a.  ^;w  Mama,  constructed  by  Q, 
Uwtiui  ttcK,  the  censor,  b.c,  145. 
Ill  stHiice  was  betoeea  Tiioli  and  Su- 
bUe'o,  It  was  upwardu  of  SO  miles 
long,  and  entirely  subieraonean  except 
(ha  last  sti  miiaE.  Thb  purlion  U  ibat 
nagniSoent  line  of  arolies  which  still 
fitnua  ao  gniiul  a  feature  of  the  Cain- 
pagoa;  but  there  are  slroug  reasons  lor 
believing  tlmt  a  great  puriJun  u(  the 
eusting  aqueduct  Wongs  lo  ibo  tioie 
of  Augmtus.  The  arches  now  stand- 
ing are  built  of  peperino.  Near  the 
Afeo  Fuibo,  on  ihe  road  to  Fcoscati, 
thi*  aqueduct  is  crossed  by  the  Clau- 
disn,  which  runs  paralli^l  lo  it  in  some 
plaocs.  The  apecus  or  ehaouEl  may 
be  aeon  in  the  ruined  firsgniSDl  ut  tlie 
Porta  Maggiore. 

4.  AgtM  T^uIOf  constructed  by 
CWiui  Secyilius  Ciepio,  and  Casaua 
Loiiginnf.,  a.c.  126.  It  hail  its  source 
nsnr  Tusculum,  and  was  carried  Into 
Home  over  the  Marcion  ntches.  The 
sptclia  may  be  seen  at  the  Porta  Mag- 
giore,  betiveen  those  of  the  Marcian 
and  Ihe  Julian. 

5.  i^qiia  Juiia,cotulructed  by  Agrip- 
pa,  8.R.  34,  and  ao  called  in  honour  of 
AugoHtus.  Its  source  was  very  near 
Lhal  of  the  Tepulau,  and  the  water  was 
OHifejed  in    a   cbannel    constructed 

W^boie  that  aqueduct,  and  consequenO,;  ^ 
■WPP  ll'e  Marelan  aiches.    Thespeous' 


|ay  also 


t  the  Porto  Mag. 


6.  Aqua  rir^o,  likewise  coustniBled 
by  Agrippa  for  the  use  of  his  bathi. 
it  derives  its  name  from  the  traditun. 
thai  its  source  near  Ihe  Anio,  i 
Iburleen  milesfrom  Rome,  was  pointed 
out  by  a  younf^  virgin  to  some  soldiera 
of  Agrippa.  This  source  may  still  ba 
traced  near  the  Tone  Salona  on  the 
Via  Collalina.  Its  course  is  m 
raneau.  with  the  exception  of  hIiouI 
TOOO  paces.  It  was  restored  by  NU 
cliulos  v..  under  tlio  iwme  oftheAcqua 
Kt^j«.  BodisatiUinuK.  lU  ai 
is  the  best  in  Home,  and  aapf 
thirteen  fountains,  including  the  Fon- 
tana  dl  Trevi,  that  of  the  Pi 
Navono,  that  of  the  Piaasa  Pari 
and  the  Borcaccia  of  the  Piazza  di 
Spagna. 

T.  Aqua  AUUtiHOy  constructed  by 
Augustus  on  the  light  banbof  IheTiber, 
for  the  use  of  liis  Nsumnchia.  I 
allerwardsrestoredby  Ti^jan,  wl 
troduced  D  new  stream  trom  the 
uf  Bracciano.    The  ancient  sourc 

be  the  Lags  di  Blartignano,  neu 
Ijuccano.  It  was  about  twetlty-tw 
inilet  long.  Il  was  sgain  restored  bj. 
the  popes  and  now  enters  the  Traa, 

Paola.  It  supplies  the  fuuutaioa  in 
the  piaua  of  St.  Peter's,  and  tiiM 
FonUna  Paola  on  the  Moatorio. 

8.   Aqna  Claudii,  founded  by  C*. 
tigula.  continued  and  finisUcd  by  " 
Emperor  ClBudiuB,A,D.  51.  Itssou 
was  on  llie  Via  Sublsocnsib      It  pup- 
sued  a  course  of  more  than  Ibrty-dl 
miles  in  length.     Fur  about  Ihirty-^iE 
miles  it  was  lubleiTanean,  and  fin  tbe 
remaining  ten  miles  il  was  carried  i 
arches.     Of  this  mogniiicent  wor 

length  still  bestrides  the  Campasnit 
forming  the  grandest  ruin  beyond  Um 
walls  of  Hnme.  It  was  repaired  by 
Scptimiiis  Severus  and  by  Caiacalla. 
Siatus  V.  availed  hiin self  ot  its  Broheo 
in  constructing  his  iJcToa  Falict,  vhiidi 
ihiis  itsstniioeaeai  tbo  Osteria  de'PBn|^J 


Papal  SiaiesJ]  lu  27.-— bomb. — AnHquUies;  Tarpeian  Rock.  367 


•opfSlies  the  Fontana  de*Tennini,  near 
the  Baths  of  Diocletian,  the  Triton 
in  the  Piana  Barberini,  the  fountain  of 
Monte  Carallo,  and  twenty-four  others 
in  different  parts  of  the  eity. 

9.  Anio  Novus,  also  built  by  Clau- 
dius. Its  source  was  on  the  Via  Sub- 
lacends,  beyond  that  of  the  Claudian. 
It  was  the  longest  of  all  the  aqueducts, 
pursuing  a  circuit  of  no  leas  than  sixty- 
two  miles,  of  which  forty-eight  were 
subterranean.  The  specus  may  still 
be  seen  above  that  of  the  Claudian  in 
the  ardi  of  the  Porta  Maggiore. 

MiSCaLLANXOUS. 

T}xneian  Roek,  —  On  the  southern 
•ummit  of  the  Capitoline,  which  faces 
the  Tiber  and  the  Aventine  and  is  now 
called  the  Monte  Caprino,  we  still 
find  this  celebrated  rock.  It  is  sur- 
rounded and  covered  with  dirty  build- 
ings, and  the  soil  has  accumulated  in 
considerable  quantities  at  the  base; 
but  enough  renuiins  to  mark 

**  the  steep 
TarpeisB,  fittest  goal  of  Treason's  race, 
Tba  promontory  whence  the  Traitor's  leap 
Cured  all  ambition.*'  Childe  Harold. 

There  are  two  precipices  now  visible. 
Aseending  from  the  Tor  de*  Specchi 
we  proceed  by  the  Via  della  Rupe 
Tarpeia,  and  pass  tlirough  a  court- 
yard, fitHn  which  one  front  of  the 
precipice  may  be  seen,  beneath  the 
Palasio  Caffiurelli.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  hill,  towards  the  river,  in  a 
garden  on  the  Monte  Caprino,  we  noay 
look  down  on  another  abrupt  precipice 
which  cannot  be  much  less  than  70 
ftet  in  height.  It  consists  of  a  mass 
of  red  volcanic  tufa,  belonging  to  the 
most  ancient  igneous  productions  of 
the  Latian  volcanos.  This  is  the  cliif 
afaown  to  strangers  as  the  Monte  Tar- 
peia,  and  as  we  know  that  criminals 
were  thrown  down  from  that  part  of 
the  Capitoline  which  was  nearest  to 
the  Tiber,  there  would  seem  to  be 
good  reason  for  regarding  it  as  the 
**  Traitor's  leap." 

ilfiMMrrine  Pritotu,  on  the  declivity 


state-prison  is  one  of  the  few  existing 
works  of  the  kingly  period :  it  is  built, 
like  the  Cloaca  Maxima,  in  the  most 
massive  style  of  Etruscan  architec- 
ture.   It  was  begun,  as  we  learn  from 
Livy,  by  Ancus  Martins,  and  enlarged 
by  Servius  Tullius,  from  whom  it  took 
the  name  of  'Hillian.     The  Prussian 
antiquaries  doubt  whether  the  existing 
chambers  are  as  ancient  as  the  time  of 
Ancus  Martius;  without  concurring 
in  this  doubt,  many  judicious  writers 
believe  that  the  prisons  were  formerly 
more  extensive  than  we  now  see  tlienu 
The  upper  cell  is  (kt  below  the  level 
of  the  surrounding  soil,  and  additional 
chambers    might    probably   be    dis- 
covered by  excavations  under  the  hill. 
Livy  mentions  the  prisons  of  Servius 
Tullius  in  the  following  interesting 
passage  (lib.  L,  cap.  3S.) : — **  Career 
ad  terrorem  inere»centis  audaeia,  media 
urbe,  imminetts  Faro,  adificatur."     In 
another  passage,  in  his  thirty-fourth 
book,  describing  the  punishment  of 
Quintus  Pleminius,  he  says,  **  In  tn- 
feriorem  demissus  careerem  est,  neca- 
tusque.*'     The  first  of  these  remark- 
able  passages  at  once  sets  at  rest  all 
question  as  to  the  locality,  and  the 
latter  distinctly  points  to  the  lower 
of  the  two  prisons  which   are   still 
visible.      If  any  other  evidence  were 
required,  it  is  supplied  by  Sallust; 
and  we  think  that  it  is  hardly  possi- 
ble to  imagine  any  ancient  descripticm 
more  applicable,  than  that  in  which 
the  historian  relates  the  circumstances 
attending  the  fate  of  the  accomplices 
of  Catiline: — **  In  the  prison  called 
the  Tullian,**   he  says,   <<  there   is  a 
place  about  10  feet  deep,  when  you 
have  descended  a  little  to  the  left :  it 
is  surrounded  on  the  sides  by  walls, 
and  is  closed  above  by  a  vaulted  roof 
of  stone.     The  appearance  of  it,  from 
the  filth,  the  darkness,  and  the  smell, 
is  terrific.**     To  these  interesting  fiicts 
we   will   simply   add,  what  will   no 
doubt  occur  to  the  stranger  on  first 
entering  the  chambers,  that  the  pecu- 
.    liarities  of  their  construction  prove  an 
of  the  Capitoline,  behind  the  arch  of  Etnuean  orif^Vii,  «cA  volv^Vj  >aA  'fnftcw 
Septimim  Stfrnms.     This  otlebrated  |  the  Strangalt  vt^TnmiX  Ss^  W«vk\a  ^\ 


S68  n.  17.— BOMB.— j4»«7»rf««;  MamerHm  PrUons.    fSect.  t- 


I 


tbeii  vcrf  high  talitiuity.  I'be  pr'iHiii 
cotuiils  of  liro  chambtn,  iTiilently 
neaiMail  in  Uie  tutk  rock,  anil  placeil 
oVM  the  other.  Ttie;  an.'  situated 
le  fact  beneath  thd  ohuccli  of  S. 
Oiuaeppe.  A  Bight  uf  3S  steps  con- 
AwU  UD  to  the  upper  chamber,  into 
trhieb  a  modern  door  bu  been  opened 
ftir  the  •eeommociationuribe  devotee!, 
who  are  nlirsclifd  by  the  Cliurch  tra- 
dillnn  which  lias  giieii  peculiar  nnc- 
ihj  to  the  spot.  Tbis  cliambcr  it 
about  1 4  Ittt  high,  30  feel  in  length, 
and  '21  in  breadtli ;  and  is  conitrucled 
with  large  tdid  mawcs  uf  pepcrino, 
without  cenMilt  The  lowec  cell, 
mII«<1  the  Tulliin  prison,  is  nther 

diaineter;  jj  tu  the  springing  of  the 
vault,  and  6^  to  its  cruirn.  It  it 
eonitruetcd,  Uke  (he  upper  chamber, 
of  Urge  massea  dT  peperino,  irranged 
in  frrar  courses  of  approaching  stones, 
not  on  the  prinoiplc  ofan  uch,  but  ex- 
tending horisonlally  lo  a  centre,  pre- 
ei«ly  like  the  treaiur]'  of  Atreus  at 
Uyeeoa:,  and  the  vril.knoiTD  tombs 
at  Tarquinli.  On  etamining  the 
Etunes  which  form  the  roof  of  iliis 
lower  cliamber,  it  will  he  seen  that 
tbojr  are  held  together  liy  strong 
cramps  of  iron,  and  hollowed  utit , 
below  iulo  n  slight  curvature,  as  if 
the  dome  of  the  original  ctiucture 
had  been  cut  off  when  Ihe  upper 
apartment  was  eooBlrueted.  This 
bet  appears  to  prove  that  the  luwer 
is  marc  aitcient  than  the  upper  ecll. 
In  the  vault  formed  by  tliesc  horiionlol 

whicb  it  U^npposed  the  prisoners  were 
lowered.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  ima- 
gine a  more  horrible  dungeon.  Ad- 
mitting tlie  arguments  in  favour  of 
the  fact  that  these  are  the  Momertiue 
juinns,  it  must  have  been  in  tills  cell 
that  Jugurtha  was  ttarved  to  death, 
the  aecomplioes  of  Catiline  were 
strangled  by  order  of  Cicero,  and 
SrjanuB,  the  minister  of  Tiberius,  was 
ei  ecu  Cad.      It  appears  tint  the  Mn- 

fjf»ned  6ir  state  o/Fenders,  which  will 
■taf  c  llie  argumeat  advanced  by  some 


of  the  uldei  antiquaries,  who 
bidered  their  small  siie  insufficieal 
for  the  requirements  of  the  popuU- 
tion.  The  welt-known  paaaige  of 
Juvenal,  leftrring  to  those  happy 
limes  under  Ihs  kings  and  tribune*, 
when  one  place  of  confinement 
sufficient  for  all  the  criminals  of 
Rome,  is  considered  to  allude  dlb 
tinetly  lo  this  prison :  — 


We  know  from  Livy  that  Appius 
Claudius,  Ihe  decemvir,  constructed  a 
prison  for  plebeian  ofienders;  and 
other  authorities  might  be  adiluBed 
which  strengthen  the  belief  that  the 
Mamertlne  prisons  were  peculiarly 
set  apart  for  political  criminals,  and 
were  consequently  not  disqualified  by 
their  tiie  for  Ihe  neceuilies  of  the 
state.      The  following  insciiptioi 


the  name*  of  Ihe  two  consuls  by  whom 
the  prison  is  supposed  lo  have  been 
r^aired,  a.  a.  93.  The  churdi  tra- 
dition has  consecrated  this  prison 
Ihe  place  in  which  St,  Peter  wag  a 
lined  by  order  of  Nero.  Tlie  pillar 
to  which  be  was  bound  ia  showi^ 
together  with  tha  fountain  whiA 
miraculously  sprung  up  to  enable  bim 
to  baptiu  his  gaolers,  Processus  and 
Martiuian.  The  upper  chamber  ii 
fitted  up  as  an  oratory,  dedicated  to 
the  Apostle,       ■    ■  -- 

with  ri-colo  offerings.      The  churdi 
above  it,  dedieutedto  S.  Giuseppe  d«' 
Falegnami,  was  built  in  1539. 
Cloaca    Maxima,    a    subterr 

1,  extending  from  the  Velabrum 


Jlbei 


s  the  g 


sewer  of  ancient  Bome.  Tbi* 
stupendous  work  is  one  of  the  n 

and  is  a  lasting  memorial  of  the  eoll- 
dity  of  Etruscan  arehiteclure.  It  b 
still  as  firm  as  when  its  foundation* 
were  &vat  laid,  and  is 


:  WaoM 


p€ipai  8uxiU9J\  R.  27. — ROM  B. — AtUigruiHes  ;  Cloaca  Maxima.  369 


tiqoity  has  never  been  assafled  by  the 
disputes  and  scepticism  of  the  anti- 
quaries. It  was  built  by  Tarquinius 
FHscus,  the  fifth  king  of  Rome,  150 
years  from  the  foundation  of  the  city, 
for  the  purpose  of  draining  the  marshy 
-ground  between  the  Palatine  and  the 
Capitoline.  Livy  records  tlie  fact  in 
the  following  remarkable  passage :  — 
**  Imfima  urbis  loea  circa  Forum,  alicu^ 
qn»  inierjeeiiu  coUibut  convalUs,  quia  ex 
j^anit  locis  Maud  facile  evehebatU  aquas, 
eloacit  e  fasHgio  in  Tiberim  ducHs  ttc- 
ecU."  —  Lib.  L,  c.  38.  Strabo  says, 
that  a  waggon  laden  with  hay  might 
have  passed  through  the  cloaca  in 
some  places ;  and  Dionysius  describes 
it  as  one  of  the  most  striking  evi- 
dences of  the  greatness  of  the  Roman 
empire.  Pliny  speaks  of  it  with 
admiration,  and  ei presses  surprise 
that  it  had  lasted  for  800  years,  un- 
affected by  earthquakes,  by  the  in- 
undations of  the  Tiber,  by  the  masses 
which  had  rolled  into  its  channel,  and 
by  the  weight  of  ruins  which  had 
fidlcn  over  it.  Nearly  four  and  twenty 
eenturies  have  now  elapsed  since  its 
foundation,  and  this  noble  structure 
of  the  Roman  kings  is  still  used  for 
its  original  purpose.  There  are  no 
other  remains  ol  ancient  Rome  which 
present  so  many  elements  of  dura- 
bility, and  promise  so  much  to  excite 
the  admiration  of  posterity  for  an- 
other two  tiiousand  years.  The  ex- 
terior archway  is  composed  of  three 
concentric  courses,  placed  one  over 
the  otiier,  and  formed  of  immense 
blocks  of  that  variety  of  pcperino 
called  gabina,  put  together,  like  all 
Etruscan  works,  without  cement. 
The  borings  of  Lcnotte  give  this 
archway  a  height  of  at  least  12  feet, 
where  it  enters  the  Tilier ;  but  the 
surface  of  the  river  rarely  sinks  more 
than  4  feet  below  the  keystone.  The 
interior  of  the  channel  is  constructed 
of  red  volcanic  tufa,  similar  to  Uiat  of 
the  Tarpeian  rock,  of  the  Palatine 
hill,  and  of  the  Monte  Verde.  Many 
of  the  blocks  are  more  than  5  feet  in 
length,  and  nearly  3  feet  in  thickness. 
'J7w  length  oftlie  cloaca  is  300  paces. 


According  to  Abeken,  the  architect 
has  provided  for  the  cleansing  of  the 
channel,  first,  by  a  considerable  fall ; 
secondly,  by  the  oblique  angle  of  60^, 
at  which  it  enters  the  Tiber;  and 
thirdly,  by  the  gradual  contraction  of 
the  diameter  from  13.12  to  10.3  feet 
The  part  which  may  be  most  con-< 
veniently  examined  is  near  the  arch 
of  Janus,  opposite  the  church  of  S. 
Giorgio  in  Velabro ;  from  this  point 
the  channel  is  entire  throughout  its 
course  to  the  Tiber,  into  which  it 
falls  at  a  short  distance  below  the 
Ponte  Rotto.  Close  to  the  extremity^ 
in  the  Velabrum,  is  a  bright  clear 
spring,  called  the  Acqua  Argentina^ 
still  held  in  some  repute  by  the  lower 
orders,  as  a  specific  in  certain  mala- 
dies :  it  is  considered  by  some  anti- 
quaries as  one  of  the  sources  of  the 
Lake  of  Jutuma,  and  as  the  precise 
spot  where  Castor  and-  Pollux  were 
seen  watering  their  horses  after  the 
battle  of  the  Lake  Regillus.  Higher 
up  is  a  more  copious  spring,  issuing 
beneath  an  arch  of  brickwork :  it  is 
used  as  a  washing-place  by  the  modem 
Romans. 

Quay  eaUcd  the  Pulchrum  Littus.  -— 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Cloaca  Maxima 
we  may  trace  the  commencement  of  a 
line  of  wall,  built  of  large  blocks  of 
travertine,  which  evidently  formed  a 
quay  or  embankment  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Tiber.  For  about  a  mile  along 
the  river  towards  the  landing-place, 
near  the  church  of  S.  Anna  de'  Calzet* 
tari,  this  wall  is  more  or  less  perfect. 
Its  construction  would  seem  to  refer 
it  to  the  period  of  the  kings,  and  there 
is  little  doubt  that  it  is  the  KoKri  oum;, 
or  the  **  pulchrum  littus,"  mentioned 
by  Plutarch  in  his  description  of  the 
house  of  Romulus.  A  road  is  sup* 
posed  to  have  led  from  the  quay  to 
the  foot  of  the  Palatine,  where  it  ter. 
minatcd  at  the  fiaSfioi,  or  steps  to 
which  this  embankment  gave  its  name. 

Agger  of  Scrvius  TuHius.  —  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  Barberini  near 
the  Porta  Pia,  among  the  ruins  of  the 
house  of  Sa\\u%V,  w^  wiTcvtN«s.<v|5»^ 
this  ce\v;bt«\.edi  T«mvwV»  'w>Ktf2sv\»!K^^s» 

1^5 


^  Und 


B.  27. — ^BOMK. — AnHquities ;  Poriieo  of  Octavia,    fSect.  t. 

fr.g. 


'%ac«>l  along  Ihs  VilU  Nigtuoi,  h 
Und  lbs  llatlu  of  Dioclclian.  belwe 
ttie  Vigna  UinJiuiB  (ni)  tht  ucb 
OtUientu,  and  in  diflvrenl  pafta  of  i 


be  recogniaeil  on  consulling 
menu  of  tbe  Piiinls  Cipitolina  id  toe 
muteum  of  the  Capilol.  It  appe«n 
ID  hare  bmied  a  parallcjogram,  com- 
poaed  ur  a  double  raw  oFSTO  eoluiDn^ 
lUt  fiAgment  U  that  in  Ihe  gaiilens  of  and  inclodng  an  op~-a  space,  invhidi 
the  VilTk  Barberini,  where  we  may  |  atood  tho  two  temples  of  Jupitct  and 
Mill  Bee  beneath  tbe  terisce  a  nus^ivc  Juno.  Tbe  tuini  of  one  of  (he  prin- 
wall  of  prperino,  whioh  undoubtedly  cipal  entrances  to  this  portico  are  Iht 
bslonged  to  the  foTtiflcalions  uf  Ihe  only  frsgmcoU  uovr  visible  :  tl)«jr  ate 
Boman  king.  Al  Ihia  angle  of  the  uluated  in  the  uiodem  Sth-nuikK 
Scnian  city  the  Agger  u  said  to  have 
been  fifty  feet  biiwil  and  ■  mile  in 
Wciglh;  the  ditch  tr  high  proiected  it 
vai  ■  hundred  feet  broad  and  thirty 
deep.  Another  rrsgmeni  in  Ihe  VilU 
Hattuon  the  Cnlian  is  nippoud  to 
ba  t.  portion  uflhis  ancient  rampart. 

CanpHi  &xleratHM.  —  At  the  point 
where  the  Strada  di  Porta  I'ia  la  In- 
UrKCitcd  by  the  Via  <lsl  Mac>;do  and 
tin  Via  di  Porta  Salara  stood  the 
famous  Porta  Cullina  of  the  n-alb  of 
la  Tulliua ;  and  in  Ihe  angle  be- 
lliia  gate  and  tlielialhi  of  Dio- 
1,  anlinuarie.  place  the  site  of 
s  Csmpu)  SceletatUh,  the  well- 
_n>wn  spot  vherc  Ihe  vestal  virgiUB,  | 
_ffrbo  had  broken  their  vowi,  were 
huried  aline,  like  Ihe  nuns  of  Ihe 
Siiddle  sgci.  Dionysiiu  and  Plularoh 
both  describe  it  as  being  witbin  Ihe 
gate,  and  livy  telle  us  that  it  was  on 
the  right  hand.  Some  writers,  lis»- 
e>er,  place  il  within  the  gardens  of 
SiUlust. 

Moutand  Gardnt  0/ SaSutl.—Tbe 
gardens  of  the  Villa  Barberini  ineloic 
t  number  of  very  inleresting  ob- 
Beudes  the  vail  oflhe  Agger 
t  Servius  Tul]ius,we  lind  Ihere  the 
Bins  of  the  Temple  of  Venus  Ery- 
lisa,  the  Circua  Apollinaris,  and  ilie 
»  of  the  luiuriouspolnee  oflhe 
Jl  Sallust,  tbe  favourite  retreat ' 
tC  Hero,  Nerta,  Aureliao,  and  other  ' 
VlRnperori.  It  was  destroyed  by  Ala.-  Eaiiulnpiua  and  a  Diana  by  Cepbiria^ 
'c,  and  little  now  remains  but  some  |  dorus,  Sec.  Most  of  these  dosbtleBB 
nceK  of  foundations.  perished  in  the  fire;  but  the  groupaf  1 

.  JVlfco  of  Ottavia,  built  by  Augus-    Mars  aud  Cupid,  in  the  Villa  Ludth-' 
■  the  theatre  of  MHrcelliw,  aa  '  visi,   fs  said  10  haie  been  diMoverad 
o  irbidi  the  spectators  mi|^t    within  the   precincts  of  Ihe  portleo. 
shellBT  in  caae  of  tain.    Tha  ,  Saata 'B.nnoW  vUxi  ^.Wt.  \Va  Veana^ 
■■  ofthU  splendid  portico  inav  wsU^  ^  4e'  MnAi 


fronts,  each  adorned  with  four  fluted 
columns  of  while  marble,  of  the  Co> 
rinthiao  order,  and  two  pilaslera,  sup- 
porting an  entablature  and  pediment. 
The  portico  was  destroyed  by  fire,  in 
the  reign  of  Titus,  and  was  restored 
by  Seplimius  Siverub  and  Caracalla. 
Two  columns  of  the  fragmenl  iKi» 
remnining  disappeared  in  this  Rre,  and 
the  clumsy  reBtorations  of  Septinutn 
Scverus  may  eauly  be  recogtiised  in 
Ihe  lai'ge  brick  arch  constructed  M 
supply  ilieir  place,  as  a  support  to  (he 
enublalute.  The  two  pillars  aoA 
Ihe  front,  and  the  two  pH- 


inepi 


are  sufficient  to  prove  tbe  magnifiesiee 
of  the  original  building :   the  style  of 

tbe  exiatiug  ruin  iagrandand  simply 

every  respect  worthy  of  the  Ai^gu*- 
Ian  age.  On  the  architrave  ia  an  in- 
scription reeording  the  resCuratiaui  d( 
Sejitimius  Severus  ami  Carocalla.  In 
the  wells  of  the  adjoining  houieit 
four  columns  of  granite  and  cipoliooi 
which  evidently  belonged  to  oue  of 
the  short  sides  of  tbe  parallelugtan 
may  be  reoognised.  The  portico  i« 
oelebrated  by  the  ancleul  writva.  fbi 
iUvaUtable  collections  of  statuan-Bi^ 
paiutiiig,  among  which  were  the  Gnpi^ 


Papal  States J^  lt.27« — rome. — AntiqtMes;  PrcsUmanCamp,  371 


poatioQ  to  those  writers  who  state 
that  it  was  diseorered  among  the 
ruins  of  Hadrian's  viUa  at  Tivoli.  In 
th«  street  behind  the  church  of  S. 
Angelo  in  Fescheria  there  is  still 
YisiUe  one  of  the  Corinthian  marble 
columns  of  the  Temple  of  Juno,  which 
stood,  as  we  have  seen,  in  the  area  of 
the  portico.  Fragments  of  two  other 
columns  exist  in  their  original  posi- 
tions, within  the  a4jacent  houses. 

Vwariwm  and  SpoHarium.  —  At  the 
base  of  the  Cielian  hill,  extending  from 
below  the  Fassiooist  Convent  of  SL  j 
Giovanni  e  Fiaolo,  to  the  Coliseum,  | 
are  some  extensive  ruins,  which  are 
generally  considered  to  be  the  ancient 
Vivarium,  the  place  in  which  the 
wild  beasts  were  kept  before  they 
were  turned  into  the  arena.  Below 
the  convent  they  consist  of  eight  im- 
mense arches  of  solid  travertine: 
there  are  two  stories,  the  lower  is  now 
interred.  The  older  antiquaries  gave 
them  the  name  of  Curia  Hostilia,  but 
their  position  and  arrangement  suf- 
ficiently Justify  their  modern  title. 
Behind  them  are  some  subterranean 
caverns,  artificially  excavated  in  the 
tufa,  which  still  retain  marks  of  the 
tools.  There  is  an  aperture  in  the 
roof.  It  is  supposed  that  these  damp 
and  dreary  caverns  were  the  SpoHa- 
rium, or  prison  of  the  gladiators. 

PrtUorian  Camp,  built  by  Sejanus, 
the  minister  of  Tiberius,  outside  the 
walls  of  Servius  Tullius.  It  is  now 
occupied  by  the  Villa  Macao,  the  ex- 
tL-nsive  vineyardof  the  Jesuits,  situated 
at  a  short  distance  behind  the  Baths 
of  Diocletian.  Tlie  camp  was  disman- 
tled by  Constaotine,  and  three  sides 
of  the  enclosure  were  included  by 
Ilonorius  in  his  new  wall.  To  this 
circumstance  we  are  indebted  for  the 
preservation  of  the  exact  form  of  this 
celebrated  camp,  memorable  as  the 
»cenu  of  the  principal  revolutions 
whicli  occurred  during  the  first  three 
centuries  of  the  Christian  era.  'I1ic 
vineyard  no  doubt  conceals  much  of 
the  ancient  foundations ;  but  consider- 
able remains  of  tbe  corridors  are  still 
ihtbJe,  ntmining  in  some  places  their 


stucco  and  even  their  paintings.  Se- 
veral inscriptions  have  been  found 
from  time  to  time,  confirming  the  his- 
tory of  the  locality.  The  circuit  of 
the  three  sides,  which  now  forms  a 
quadrangular  projection  in  the  city 
walls,  is  stated  to  be  5400  feet.  A 
part  of  the  southern  side  has  been 
roughly  rebuilt  with  large  and  irre* 
gular  stones,  supposed  to  be  the  work 
of  Belisarius.  There  is  a  gold  coin  of 
Claudius,  on  which  the  general  ar* 
rangement  of  the  camp  is  represented. 

Fountahif  ceUkd  the  Trophies  of 
Marius,  a  picturesque  ruin  at  the 
head  of  -the  Via  Maggiore,  so  called 
from  the  trophies  on  the  balustrade 
of  the  Capitol  which  were  found  here. 
There  is  no  longer  any  doubt  that 
the  name  of  Marius  has  been  erro* 
neously  applied  both  to  the  trophies 
themselves  and  to  this  ruin.  Winck- 
elmann  regards  the  sculpture  of  the 
trophies  as  clearly  indicating  the  age 
of  Domitian ;  and  more  recent  writers 
have  referred  them  and  the  building 
before  us  to  an  age  as  late  as  Septi- 
mius  Severus  (?).  Excavations  made 
a  few  years  back  by  the  French  Aca* 
demy  fUlly  confirmed  the  opinion  of 
Firanesi,  that  this  ruin  was  either  a 
reservoir  for  tbe  waters  of  one  of  the 
aqueducts,  or  a  fountain.  Firanesi 
found  by  measurement  that  the  build- 
ing must  have  served  as  the  reservoir 
of  the  Aqua  Julia,  which  was  con- 
veyed from  the  Porta  S.  Lorenzo  by 
an  aqueduct,  of  which  six  arches  are 
still  standing.  Fabrctti  considered 
that  it  must  have  served  likewise  as 
the  emissary  of  the  Claudian  aque- 
duct, whose  waters  were  brought  to 
it  from  the  Porta  Maggiorc.  Nibby 
refers  the  building  to  Septimius  Sc- 
verus  who  restored  the  aqueducts, 
but  agrees  with  the  other  authorities 
in  considering  it  a  reservoir.  From 
the  works  of  art  which  have  been 
found  in  the  vicinity,  the  monument 
appears  to  have  been  highly  orna- 
mented. Among  these  discoveries 
are  the  Discobolus  of  the  Vatican, 
and  the  ^iieca  o^  \\\ftNV\»L\S«t^«fc« 

Foutitain.  of  Kgerio^  >^%R.<t^Vj  ^Co^ 


HOOTB  27. — ROUS. — Antii/uttiei;  OMUks.       ^Sec(.  t. 


^^K  Bom  an  anliquirici,  without  TCgard  |  ii  Iiaalmn  gciiErnllyadmitled  Ihoteten 
^H  ID  clnBival  Duthoriif.  in  tlie  tbIIc;  uf  i  if  tlie  nlley  of  the  Almo  were  tlie 
^H  iIm  Almo,  now  tailed  tlie  V'lllc  Cat-    £gerian  valley  dewribed  by  Jurmd, 

^^B  Am  SelMttiano,  ind  immediutcljr  limilnr  cells  formerly  eiiating  in  it. 
■^  Wder  tlie  io-callcd  Temple  of  Uac-  |  nud  that  it  has  been  converted  eithtr 

■bus  •bout  midway  betwHii  the  high    iuto  a  nymphKum  or  a  bath. 

road  to  Naples  and  tile  Appiao.      It   diieovery  of  small  reservoirs  . 

ia    a    mere    vaulted    chamber    with  '  the  spot,  the  remains  oT  conduit*  «till 

Blchn,  hollowed  out  of  a  Mcep  bank,  I  traceable  within  the  chamber,  and  the 
^^—  vui  built  ehieSj  of  reticulated  brick-  copious  supply  of  water  which  eon- 
^^Lwork,  which  appears  ftoin  iti  con-  tinutdly  ooidb  through  the  building, 
^^B  JITuetion  lo  be  not  older  than  the  age  give  great  weight  to  thia  Dpinicn. 
^^■f  Vf  Vespasian.  It  has  three  niches  in  Per^jn  the  true  eiplanation  of  the 
^^^tbe  sidis,  and  a  large  niche  at  the  ex-  '  poetical  legend  is  that  expressed  by 
^^    tnmily.  contMiiiog  a  recumbent  male    Lord  Byron 

MUiie  much  mutilated,  but  luppoacd    «  Encriil 

to  be  the" *      "^-   '-       ■■'■-'-'■ 


tradition  that  it  represents  the  grove 
and  tiered  fountain  where  Numa  held 
bis  niglilly  consultations  with  his 
nymph,  and  which  ha  dedicated  to  the 
Uuaea  in  order  that  they  might  there 
hold  ooutnel  with  Rgeria.  'fhe  au- 
thority for  this  tradition  ii  the  follow- 
ing pasmge  from  Livy,  lib.  i.  91.  : 


ie  TofHl  ietfiMir  ; 


■ITlDU  w 


ougW, 


tb^tMlL 


Egeiia,  and  eomplaiiis  that  its  oci- 
gin^  slmpticily  had  been  dettroyed 
by  artifieiiil  omameata : 

Nunen  »qnr,  virQl  ii  miTglne  cl.uUetM 

Ilartw,  are  Ineenuum  violirinil  Diarmara 
tupliuin?  Lii,  i.  Sal.  m. 

The  older  antiriuaries  implicitly  be- 
lieved the  Itaditioii.  and  n  few  years 
since  the  Romnus  still  repaired  to  Ihe 
grotto  on  Ihe  Htst  Sunday  in  May  lo 
drinic  the  water,  which  llicy  con- 
lidered  to  possess  peculiar  virCuci. 
fbr  nearly  three  centuries  tlie  uame 
reniled  almost  wiiLout  contrndic- 
n;  but  since  the  jvceiit 


From  the  fragments  of  vorioua  J 
which  have  been  found  amoI^; 
ruius,  it  appears  that  the  srotts 
paved  with  serpentine,  and  tbe 
covered  with  plates  of  rith  macUb 
Tbe  ruin  is  now  clothed  with 
and  etergreens,  the  Adiantum  capll* 
lus  waves  over  the  founloin,  and  '  _ 
tulU  of  creeping  plants  hang  over  It* 
rouf.  The  quiet  seclusion  of  tbe :  , 
is  well  calculated  to  make  the  tra*d- 
ler  deure  to  be  a  believer  in  the  truth 
of  tbe  tradition. 


Then 

stupendous  obelisks  whfcb 
perors  brought  from  Egypt  aa  loe- 
morials  of  thinr  triumphs,  and  wtueli^ 
the  popes  have  so  judiciously  applied 
lo  the  decoration  uf  the  modem  eitj. 
Sixtus  V.  hns  llie  honour  of  having 
first  employiJ  them  for  this  pur 
The  Vatican  obelisk  was  the 
raised,  and  FoDtona  was  considered 
by  tbe    engineers    of  the   ]6(h  ci 


\l.utY  W 


Jp€ipal  iStofeff.]  ROUTS 27. — noME.-^AfUiquities  ;  Obelisks.    373 


eestfully  placed  it  on  its  pedestaL 
The  following  is  a  list  of  the  obelisks 
In  the  order  of  their  erection  on  their 
present  sites. 

Obeiisk  of  the  Faiieam,  erected  by 
Sixtus  v.,  in  1586.     Tliis  obelisk  is 
a  solid  mass  of  red  granite  without 
hiMOglyphica.     It  was  fuund  in  the 
circus  of  Nero,  and  is  therefore  stand- 
ing not  far  from  its  original  situation. 
It  was  brought  to  Rome  by  Caligula 
from  HeliopoUs.     The  account  of  its 
Toyage  is  given  by  Pliny,  who  says 
that  the  ship  which   carried   it  was 
nearly  as  .long  as  the  left  side  of  the 
port  of  Ostia.     Suetonius   confirms 
the  immense  magnitude  of  this  ship, 
by  telling  us  that   it  was  sunk  by 
Claudius  to  form   the  foundation  of 
the  pier  which  he  constructed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  harbour.     The  obelisk 
previous  to  its  removal  stood  nearly 
on  the  sile  of  the  present  sacristy  of 
St.  Peter*s.      It  is  the   only  one  in 
Rome  which  was  found  in  its  origi- 
nal position,  which  of  course  accounts 
for  the  fact  that  it  is  still  entire.     As 
stated  above,  it  was  placed   on  the 
present  pedestal  in  1586  by  the  cele- 
brated architect  Domenico  Fontana, 
who  has  left  a  highly  interesting  ac- 
count of  the  process.     No  less  than 
500  plans   had    been    submitted   to 
the  pope  by  different  engineers  and 
architects,  but  the  result  fully  justi- 
fied his  choice.     Six  hundred  men, 
140  horses,  and  46  cranes  were  em- 
ployed in  the  removal.     Fontana  cal- 
culated  the  weight  of  •the   mass  at 
96S,5S7  Roman  pounds  ;  the  expense 
of  the  operation  was  37,975  scudi; 
the  value  of  the  machinery  and  ma- 
terials, amountitig  to  half  this  sum, 
was  presented  to  Fontana  by  the  pope 
as  a  reward  for  his  successful  services. 
The  operation  is  described  at  length 
by  the  writers  of  the  time,    and   a 
painting  representing  it  is  preserved 
in  the  Vatican  library.    Many  curious 
fiicts  connected  with  the  process  are 
mentioned:  the  ceremony  was  pre- 
ceded by  the  celebration  of  high  mass 
in  St  Peter's;  the  pope  pronounced 
m  solemn  benediction  on  Fontana  and 


the  workmen ;  and  it  was  ordered 
that  no  one  should  speak  during  the 
operation  on  pain  of  death.  It  is 
stated,  however,  that  the  process 
would  have  failed  firom  the  tension  of 
the  ropes,  if  one  of  the  Bresca  family 
had  not  broken  through  the  order  by 
calling  upon  the  workmen  to  wet  the 
ropes.  The  common  story  of  English 
travellers  attributes  this  suggestion  to 
an  English  sailor,  but  there  are  no 
grounds  whatever  for  the  statement. 
The  Bresca  family  indeed  still  possess 
the  privilege  of  supplying  the  pope*S 
chapel  with  palm-leav^  on  Palm 
Sunday,  which  Sixtus  V.  granted 
them  as  an  acknowledgment  of  the 
service  of  their  ancestors  on  this  oc- 
casion. The  height  of  the  shaft,  ex* 
elusive  of  all  the  ornaments,  is  83 
feet  2  inches ;  the  heightof  the  whole 
from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
bronze  cross  is  1^32  feet  2  inches} 
the  breadth  of  the  base  is  8  feet  10 
inches.  The  cross  at  the  top  was  re* 
newed  in  1740,  when  some  relics  of 
the  true  cross  were  deposited  in  it. 
The  following  is  the  dedication  to 
Augustus  and  Tiberius,  which  is  still 
visible  on  two  sides  of  the  pedestal :  — 
lyivo .  cAxs.  nivi .  ivlxx  .  r.  avgvsto  . 

TI.   CABS.   DXVX  .  AVG.   F.  SACRVBI.      It  is 

worthy  of  remark  that  a  line  drawn 
from  the  centre  of  the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's  through  the  great  door  passes 
about  eleven  feet  to  the  south  of  the 
obelisk. 

Obelisk  ofS,  Maria  Mappiore,  erected 
in  1587  by  Fontana,  during  the  pontifi* 
cate  of  Sixtus  V.  It  is  of  red  granite, 
broken  in  three  or  four  places,  and  is 
without  hieroglyphics.  It  was  one  of 
a  pair  of  obelisks  which  originally 
flanked  the  entrance  to  the  mausoleum 
of  Augustus.  They  are  supposed  to 
have  been  brought  from  Egypt  by 
Claudius,  a.  d.  57.  The  present  ons 
was  disinterred  by  Sixtus  V. ;  the  other 
was  placed  on  the  Monte  Cavallo  by 
Pius  VI.  The  height  of  thisobelisk, 
without  the  ornaments  and  base,  is  48 
feet  4  inches ;  the  height  of  the  whole 
from  l\\e  f^Mudi  \,o  V\\«  \q>^  ^\^^  ct^sn^ 
I  is  B3  Ce«t  9  VacYicA. 


RODTB  27.— ROME. — Antiquities  ;   Obeliiks,     ^Secl.  t. 


pieces  until  1587, 
noted  it  to  iu  we- 


874 

OUM   tf   St.  JAn    L4Utran,    (he  lirokeu  into  tli 
Urgtal  abdisk  aaw  known,  erected  in  '.  wbea  Sixtus  \. 

1588  by  Fenlana,  in  tbe  pontificMvoT  lest  poaitiun.    1 

Silui  V.    It  is  of  red  granite  bruken  without  base  or  DrnnnieiKs.ut  79  feat; 

into  IbiW!  pieces,  >nd  is  covered  with  the  entire  height  from  the  ground  to 

Iritrceijphies.     It  wm  brouglit  from  the  (up  of  the  cross  is  about  116  feet, 

Bcltopolis  Id  Aleiandria  by  Coaalan-  On   the  tide  fronting  tbe  ForU  dal 

line  tbe   Cremt,  and  «s(  lenxived  to  Fopolu   is   the  follDwing  inscriptiot^ 

Honi*  bj  his  son   Coiulantius,  who  showing  that  Augustiu  reoewed  the 


When  i 


Maximus.  It  vos  conveyed  fr 
Aleuodria  to  the  mouth  orthe  Tiber 
in  k  *euel  of  SOO  oars,  and  was  landed 
Ibroe  miles  belov  Rome,  a.ik  357. 
AcBordiog  to  Cbampollioo's  eiplana- 
tion  Iff  tbe  hieroglTphicB.  it  fommcmo- 
latn  tbe  Pharaoh  T> 
tbe  Msris  of  the  Grn 
iiraa  removed  by  Siil 
tying  in  the  Circun  Mi 
into  three  pieces.  In  nriler  to  adapt 
these  fiagioents,  it  was  necemary  tt 
cut  00"  a  portion  uf  tlic  lower  part; 
notwithstanding  this,  it  ii  still  the 
loftiest  obeliik  in  Rome,  llie  height 
of  the  thafl,  without  the  ornanientB 
jU)d  base,  is  105  feet  7  inches:  tbe 
whole  hoght  from  the  ground  to  the 
top  of  the  cross  is  1 49  feel  T  inches. 
Tha  sdea  are  of  unequal  breadth  ! 
two  measure  9  feet  S^  inches ;  the 
other  two  only  9  leet :  nnc  of  these 
ndea  iislightly  convex.  The  weight 
_  of  the  shaft  has  been  estimated  at 
LMJIon«. 

■^  OMiii  of  tke  Piiaia  dtl  Popoh, 
■nectcd  by  Fonlana  in  15R9,  duHng 
iTlbe  poDlilicate  of  Sittus  V.  It  is  ol 
nd  granite,  l>roken  into  three  pieces, 
and  is  covEred  wilb  hieroglyphics. 
This  is  one  of  the  moat  interesting 
obelisks  which  have  lieen  prtaerted  to 
119.  It  stood  before  the  Temple  of 
tbe  Sun  at  HeliopoUt,  where,  accord. 
iltg  to  Champollion,  it  was  erected  by 
one  of  tbe  two  brothers  Mauduuei  and 
Suairel,  who  reigned  before  Rhainses 
(L  ;  this  carries  us  back  al  once  to 
the  days  of  Mows.  It  was  removed 
to  Rome  by  Augustus  aftcir  the  con- 
quest of  Egypt,  and  placed  in  the 
Circus  Maxianis.  It  had  falien  from 
its  pedestal  in  tbe  lime  of  VMleiitinUn, 


i    dediei 


0biliiiitflhiPiatiaNaKria,e7i!clei 
in  I6AI  by  Bernini,  in  tbe  midst  of  lui 
great  fountain,  dm 
oflnnocent  X.  It  was  fiiriaerlj  called 
(he  PamphiliBU  Ubeliik,  in  ' 
tbe  pope's  family  name.  It  is  of  red 
gianite,  cotered  with  hieic^yphioa, 
and  is  broken  i  '  _ " 
was  found  in  the  circus  of  Romulni^ 
thesonoTAIaionlius,  and  from  the 
style  of  the  hieroglypbici 
posed  to  be  a  Roman  work  of  Iba 
time  of  Domitian.  It  was  made^ 
however,  the  subjecl  of  a  long  and 
elaborate  dis^erlation  by  Father  Kir- 
clwr.  who  endeavoured  to  ahuw  that 
it  was  one  of  the  obelisks  of  UeUo. 
polls,  but  this  Doi^'eoture  has  been 
eiploded  by  modem  discoveries 
its  present  position  it  stands  c 
rock  about  40  feet  high.  The  belgbt 
uf  the  shaft  without  the  base  is  51  &tt 

ObaSik  oftht  S.Maria  Mipra  USHtnia, 
erected  in  16<i7  by  Berniui,in  thepott- 
liliealeDf  Akxandi-r  Vll.  It  is  asmall 
obelisk  of  Egyptian  granite  with  hiero- 
glyphics, supposed  to  have  been  at 
apairwhiob  stood  in  float  of  the  temple 
oflaisand  Seiapis  in  the  Campus  Maf 
tins,  whose  site  is  now  occupied  by  tbe 
{;arden»  of  tlie  Domen' 
Both  Ihes?  obelisks  were  found  ItBttM 
ieS5\  one  wasercctedinfront  of  tli« 
I'anlheonj  the  other, tha  onenowbe- 
fore  lis,  was  placed  by  B 
worst  laste  on  the  back  of  a  marble 
elephant,  tl 
Its  height  without  the  base  is  aboutlT 
(ect  -,  t,^e  beii^t  f  lom  \Ve  ^Kuod  «a 


nained  buried,  in  the  earth  and  |  toe  suttrantia  ft\iDi«^9&K\. 


PtgMiiSMes.2  ROtJTE27. — ROME. — AuUquUies  ;  Obelisks.    S75 


OMitk  of  the  Pantheon,  erected  in 
1711  by  Clement  XI.  It  is  a  small 
obelisk  <^  Egyptian  grmiite,  with 
hieroglyphios,  evidently  the  fellow  of 
tbe  preceding  one,  and  found  in  the 
same  place.  It  stands  in  the  midst 
of  the  fountain  of  the  Piazza,  to  which 
it  was  removed  by  Clement  XI.  from 
its  situation  in  the  Piazza  di  S.  Ma- 
huteok  where  it  had  been  erected 
by  Paul  V.  Its  height  without  the 
base  is  about  17  feet ;  the  height  from 
the  pavement  to  the  top  is  about  47 
feet. 

Obelitk  of  the  Monte  CavaUo,  erected 
in  1786  by  Antinori,  in  the  pontificate 
of  Pius  VI.  It  is  of  red  granite,  with- 
out hieroglyphics,  and  is  broken  into 
two  or  three  pieces.  It  formerly  stood 
in  front  of  the  mausoleum  of  Angus- 
tus,  being  the  fellow  of  that  in  front 
of  S.  Maria  Maggiore,  and  was  con- 
sequently brought  from  Egypt  by 
Claudius,  a^  b.  57.  The  height  of  the 
abaft,  without  the  base  or  ornaments, 
is  45 .  feet ;  the  height  of  the  whole 
from  the  ground  to  the  summit  is 
about  95  feet  At  the  sides  of  this 
obelisk  stand  the  Cohssal  Equettrian 
(Group  which  have  been  called  Castor 
and  Pollux  by  recent  antiquaries. 
They  arc  undoubtedly  of  Grecian 
workmanship,  and  if  we  could  believe 
the  Latin  inscription  on  the  pedestals, 
they  are  the  work  of  Phidias  and 
Praxiteles.  But  as  they  were  found 
in  the  Baths  of  Constantine,  there  is 
good  reason  for  suspicion  in  regard 
to  the  authenticity  of  the  inscriptions; 
for  the  statues  are  evidently  seven  cen- 
turies older  than  the  age  of  Constan- 
tine, and  no  inscriptions  of  that  time 
can  be  worth  much  as  authorities. 
Canova  entertained  no  doubt  of  their 
Greek  origin,  and  admired  their  fine 
anatomy  and  action.  They  were  re- 
stored and  placed  as  we  now  see  them 
by  Antinori,  in  the  time  of  Pius  VI., 
but  they  arc  evidently  not  in  their 
relative  positionN,  for  the  action  of 
both  the  men  and  horses  shoMs  that 
they  were  not  originally  side  by  side, 
but  very  near!/  fiico  to  face.  From 
o/io  of  the  men  Sir  Richard  Westma- 


cott  took  his  idea  of  the  Achilles  in 
Hyde  Park. 

Obelisk  of  the  Trinitd  de*  Monti, 
erected  in  1789  by  Antinori,  during 
the  pontificate  of  Pius  VI.,  an  obelisk 
of  red  granite,  with  hieroglyphics.  It 
formerly  stood  in  the  circus  of  Sallust; 
and  according  to  ChampolIion*s  inter- 
pretation of  the  hieroglyphics  was 
erected  in  honour  c^  Antinous,  in  th? 
name  of  Hadrian  and  Sabina.  The 
height  of  the  shaft,  without  the  base 
and  ornaments,  is  about  44  fiset ;  the 
height  of  the  whole  from  the  ground 
to  the  top  of  the  cross  is  99  feet  11 
inches. 

Obelisk  of  Monte  Citorio,  erected  in 
1792  by  Antinori,  in  the  pontificate  of 
Pius  VI.,  an  obelisk  of  red  granite^ 
covered  with  hieroglyphics,  and  broken 
into  five  pieces.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  celebrated  of  these  monuments : 
it  has  been  illustrated  with  great 
learning,  and  has  been  admired  by 
all  artists  from  the  time  of  Win- 
ckelmann,  for  the  remarkable  beauty 
of  the  hieroglyphics  which  remain. 
According  to  the  explanations  of 
Champollion,  these  hieroglyphics  sig- 
nify that  it  was  erected  in  honour  of 
Psammeticus  I.  It  was  brought  to 
Rome  by  Augustus,  from  Heliopolis, 
and  placed  in  the  Campus  Martins, 
where,  as  we  learn  from  the  well- 
known  description  of  Pliny,  it  wais 
used  for  a  meridian.  It  was  first  dis- 
covered, buried  under  the  soil  be- 
hind the  church  of  S.  Lorenzo  in 
Lucina,  in  the  time  of  Julius  ll.,  but 
was  not  removed  until  the  time  of 
Pius  VI.,  when  it  was  dug  out  by  Za- 
bagUa,  and  erected  in  its  present  po- 
sition by  Antinori.  The  fragment  of 
the  A urelian  column  which  was  found 
near  it  was  taken  to  repair  it,  and  to 
form  the  base.  The  height  of  the 
shaft  without  the  base  and  ornaments 
is  7 1  feet  6  inches ;  the  height  of  the 
whole,  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of 
the  bronze  globe,  is  1 10  feet. 

Obelisk  of  Monte  Pineio,  sometimes 
called  della  Passeggiata,  in  front  of 
the  V'lWa  'Med^vd,  weisX^^  vcvWi^l^Xk^ 


villi  b!cri>i;l]-pliicii,  found  near  Ihp 
cliuich  of  Santu  Cri>cc  in  Gerosa- 
lamiDc,  on  tlu;  suptH»ed  aili!  oF  tlie 
eUcDi  of  HclioKxbiilus.  'Die  height 
of  Ihe  (hafl  without  the  bane  i>  30 
Iket)  lbs  height  of  llie  irhole  from 
Ifct  gTOund  la  the  nuniRiit  in  56  feet 

ObtHika/tlie  raia  MatM—  A  mere 
ftagfiMiit  of  the  upper  part  of  an 
■neicDl  obcltak,  vith  hierogtjphies. 
mounted  on  >  modem  pedestal.  It  is 
hardtf  worthy  of  being  classed  wilh 
the  other  obeliiliE  of  Hume. 

Bi:ti,Dlwii*  or  TBS  Minai.i  Acn 
Soat  of  RJtuti,  calleil  by  the  peo- 
ple Ihe  Home  of  Pilate,  and  (ormerly 
described  aa  the  Torre  di  Miuuone,  a 
BOgular  briek  building  of  two  stories, 
at  the  end  of  the  VicoEo  della  Puntu- 
nella,  near  the  Temple  of  Fortutu 
A^riluL  and  nearly  opposite  tlie  north 
■ideof iheFonteHotto.    Tbisstrajigc 

WttlitiagmentsofcuIumnsaDd  ancient 
Onuuneuu  of  iBrioui  periods,  capri- 
ciauaW  thrown  togetber,  wilhuut  >nj 
1  to  the  principles  of  tutc  or 
i!  unirormity.  On  the  aide 
fronting  the  V.  della  Fontsnella  is  an 
arah,  iuppoted  to  have  been  once  a 
doorway,  orer  vbich  is  ■  long  ioscrip- 
tioD,  whicli  has  given  rise  to  more 
tlian  Ihe  usual  amount  of  antujuarinn 
eontiorerir.  It  is  in  the  worst  style 
of  the  old  rhyming  verse,  of  which 
the  last  five  lines  may  be  quoted  aa 


Blat  Pslrli  CreKeiii 


At  the  upper  part  of  this  io 
Tould  bean  inexplicable  e 


B  S7. —  tiOM  E. — ffouie  of  Rienst,        f  Sect.  7. 


NiaJau. 

.,  Trib»n 

w,   St« 

■u..Chmmt, 

\  iLib^ 

lur9).  P.il^itrUtfi, 

IVnAto 

Sertala 

,  Nicola 

u,  dulit. 

dommm.  M> 

am.  Daridi.  DilaM.  Filio 

.».      Thu 

onjeut 

mrs  .thi 

-S-rSS 

Latin  i 

Bcnptio 

refers  al 

ciausly  11 
k«gard  tc 


and  to  tlie  bctguest  of  the  houne  to 
his  ion  David.  Whatever  may  be 
thought  of  tbe  ingenuity  or  imagio*. 
tion  of  the  anfiquary,it  ui  certain  tbat 
III  is  pompous  phroaeology  correapoudl 
with  the  titles  assumed  by  Kieati  in 
his  ofHcial  acts.  In  tbai  eitraordinary 
doGiimenl,  dated  from  the  Piana 
of  St.  John  Lsteron,  Aug.  I.  1347, 
citing  the  emptrors  and  electors  to 
Bppearbefbrc  him,  which  will  be  Riund 
quoted  by  Zeferino  Re,  in  hisoiuiout 
wotit  -  La  Vila  di  Cola  di  Rienio>* 
published  at  Forll  in  ISSB,  the  T(i* 
bune  styles  hiniaelf,  "  Nitola  ttsertt  ■ 
dementt,  libtrator  di  ffnma,  tilatert 
dcB  Iialla,  amnion  dtl  manda  inftra, 
TribuHo  auffiuta."  On  the  arohitnve 
of  one  oF  the  windows  is  the  fallowing 
inscription,  ascribed  by  the  antique- 


liardly  be  expected  tbat 
meaning  of  Ibeae  inseripl 
ever  be  much  mare  than  a  d 
ter  of  conjecture;  ond  it  i 
an  unprofitable  task  to  pi 
Bubjesl  further.      It  will  lie 


It  can 


purpos. 


to  belong  ti 


the  nth  cenlnry,  and 
the  inseriptiont  that 
Nicholas,  son  of  Cresceniiusand  The©* 
dora,  fortiHed  the  house  and  gave  it 
to  David  bis  son  ;  that  this  Crescen. 
tills  was  the  son  of  the  celebrated 
paU-iclan  who  roused  the  pei^le 
against  the  Emperor  Otho  IlL,  Bi>d 
that  the  building  may  have  been  in- 
habited by  Rienii  three  oenturiei 
later  (1347).  Other  writers  suppose 
Ibat  it  was  destroyed  1313  by  Arlotto 
jegli  Stefanesflhi,  and  rebuilt  by 
Bieniv  in  lU  YtesetiV.  itiim,    'tine  ^o. 


Papal  StateM."}     kovte  27. —  rome.— Fountaini, 


377 


opinion,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
the  interest  of  the  building  is  entirely 
derived  from  its  presumed  connection 
with  the  **  Spirto  gentil**  of  Petrarch, 
to  whom  Childe  Harold  has  given 
additional  immortality : 

"  Then  turn  we  to  her  laiest  tribune's  name, 
Froa  her  ten  thousand  tyrants  turn  to  thee, 
Redeeaier  <^dark  centuries  of  shame— 
The  friend  of  Petrarch — hope  of  Italy— 
Riensi !  last  of  Romans !    While  the  tree 
Clf  Freedom's  wither'd  trunk  puts  forth  a 

leaf. 
Even  for  thy  tomb  a  garland  let  it  be  — 
The  forum*s  champion,  and  the  people's 

chief — 
Her  new.bom  Numa   thou  —  with   reign, 

alas!  too  brief.'* 

The  style  of  the  building  and  its  de- 
corations mark  the  period  when  art 
was  at  its  lowest  ebb ;  and  the 
strange  collection  of  ornaments  and 
fragments  of  antiquity  may  perhaps 
be  regarded  as  an  apt  illustration  of 
the  taste  and  character  of  **  the  last  of 
the  Roman  Tribunes.** 

7br  de*  ConH,  a  huge  brick  tower  at 
the  foot  of  the  Quirinal,  near  the  Pi- 
azsa  delle  Carette,  built  in  1216,  by 
Innocent  III.,  of  the  Conti  family, 
from  whom  it  derives  its  name.  It 
no  doubt  formed,  like  the  other 
towers  of  the  same  kind  which  may 
•till  be  traced,  a  place  of  safety  in 
which  the  popes  might  fortify  them- 
selves against  their  powerful  nobles. 
It  was  injured  by  the  earthquake 
of  1348,  and  was  partly  pulled  down 
a  few  years  afterwards  by  Urban  VIII. 
The  Ciceroni  absurdly  give  it  the 
name  of  Trajan*s  Tower. 

Torre  delle  MUizit,  on  the  Quirinal, 
at  the  head  of  the  Via  MagnanapoU, 
and  within  the  grounds  of  the  convent 
of  St.  Catharine  of  Siena.  This  is 
another  large  brick  tower,  called  by 
the  ciceroni  the  tower  of  Nero,  and 
pointed  out  to  unsuspecting  travellers 
as  the  place  from  which  Nero  beheld 
the  fire  of  Rome.  We  know  from 
Tacitus  that  the  emperor  witnessed 
the  destruction  of  the  city  from  the 
Csquiline,  and  the  construction  of 
this  building  shows  that  it  is  of  later 
date  than  the  Tor  de*  Conti.  It  is 
Mttributed  by  the  older  antiquaries 


to  Boniface  VIII.  (1303),  and  is  said 
by  Biondo  to  stand  on  the  barracks 
in  which  the  troops  of  Tr^'an  were 
quartered. 

Fountains  and  Piazse. 

Fontana  PaoHna,  on  the  Janicu* 
lum,  the  most  abundant,  and  perhaps 
the  most  imposing,  of  all  the  Roman 
fountains.  It  was  constructed  by 
Paul  V.  in  1612,  from  the  designs  of 
Fontana,  and  it  is  mentioned  as  a  cu« 
rious  coincidence  that  both  their 
names  are  commemorated  in  that  of 
the  fountain.  The  elevation  of  the 
fountain  is  an  imitation  of  the  gable 
of  a  church ;  it  has  six  Ionic  columns 
of  red  granite,  taken  from  the  Forum 
of  Nerva.  Between  the  columns  are 
five  niches,  three  large  and  two  small. 
In  the  three  large  ones  three  cascades 
fall  into  an  immense  basin,  and  in  the 
two  small  niches  are  two  dragons,  in 
allusion  to  the  armorial  bearings  of 
the  pope,  each  of  which  pours  out  a 
stream  of  water  into  the  same  badn. 
The  water  is  supplied  from  the  lake  of 
Bracciano,  by  the  aqueduct  called  the 
Acqua  Paola,  and  after  perforpaing 
its  duty  here  it  served,  for  mauy 
years,  to  turn  the  chief  part  of  the 
Roman  flour-mills.  The  aqueduct 
was  cut  off  by  the  French  during  the 
siege  operations  of  1849,  and  part  of 
the  masonry  of  the  fountain  was  per* 
ibrated  by  a  ball  from  the  French 
artillery.  The  style  of  the  fountain 
is  not  in  the  best  tiAte,  but  the  eflfect 
of  the  water  can  hardly  be  surpassed. 
The  view  from  this  fountain  over  the 
whole  of  Rome  and  the  Campagna  is 
one  of  the  finest  scenes  imaginable. 

Fontana  del  TVUone,  or  the  Barbe- 
rini  Fountain,  in  the  Piaxxa  Barbe* 
rini,  the  presumed  site  of  the  Circus 
of  Flora.  It  is  composed  of  four 
dolphins,  supporting  a  large  open 
shell,  upon  which  sits  a  Triton,  who 
blows  up  tlie  water  tlirough  a  shell  to 
a  great  h^ght.  It  is  the  work  of 
Bernini,  and  is  much  praised  by  his 
admirers. 

Fontoiui  dcUe  TotUltux^^^  vcv  ^^ 


souTK  27. —  souE.  — FowUatttt. 


ESecK* 


I 


whieh  omaincnt  il.  It  Ins 
fcur  broiuc  youthful  figuru  lu  ittj 
gHorful  Mtitudn;  one  luiiportB  ■ 
TaWi  from  irhleb  the  wnlur  flomioto 
Uia  tMuin,  The  daign  is  by  Gia- 
Miw>  ddl*  Parts  ;  tbe  figurei  are  bjr 
Tvldaa  Landiui. 

Aiitaiw  di  Tnni,  the  Urpeit  and 
■hapB  the  moil  celebrated  fouTiuin 
lloiQC.  It  iuuGs  rroin  the  baw  of 
•  unmeiue  Palana  Conli,  built  by 
giiHuil  XII.  (Corriui)  in  1T35, 
m  tbe  deugni  uf  Nicoolu  Sal>i. 
_ .  le  water  u  made  to  fall  over  atti- 
tdal  rocki,  above  irhieh,  ia  a  large 
Biahe  in  the  centre  of  tbe  fiifade,  is  a 
aotoasil  figure  of  Nejiiun^,  itanding 
in  hU  oar  drawn  by  horwa  and  at- 
taadeil  by  Tritom.  It  was  J«aceelj  tu 
be  eapecteit  llwt  thr 


f  Ihia  I 


SlgD  WOU 


criticiHi  of  Furiyth 
** another  pompous  oonfuuon  of  fable 
mod  &ct,  godi  aad  ediles,  aqueduct* 
•nd  aea  monateii ;  but  the  rock-work 
ia  grand,  proportioned  to  the  itream 
of  water,  and  a  Bl  btuement  fyi  such 
•tcbileoturc  as  a  Castel  d'acqua.  is. 

Siiicd,  not  for  tbe  frittered  Coriu- 
ian  which  we  find  tliere."  The . 
TiitODi.  horses.  Sic,  and  other  ligures 
of  the  (buataiD,  are  by  Pietro  BraocL 
The  fa9Bde  of  tbe  palace  has  four 
columni  and  di  pilaatara  of  ira- 
iBrtina,ofthe  Corinthian  order ;  be- 
tween the  columns  are  statues  of 
Salubrity  and  Abundance,  sculptured 
by  FilippoValle^abovethcmate  tivo 
bas-relitfis,  one  by  Andrea  Bergondi, 
lapressnling  Marcus  ABrippa,  wlio 
brought  the  Aqua  Virgo  into  Rome, 
the  other  by  Giovanni  Crossi,  repre- 
ssntiug  the  young  virgin  who  pointed 
out  tbe  springs  to  tbe  aoldieis  of| 
Agrippii  as  mentioned  in  the  account '. 
of  th«  aqueduct  (p.  366. ).  Between  | 
file  pilasters  are  two  rows  of  windows. 
The  whole  is  surmounted  by  an  attic, 
bearing  an  insoription  ia  honour  of 
dement  XII.  This  foiptaia  is  the 
qwt  wliere  Corinne  came  to  meditate 
Iry  moonlight,  when  she  was  suddenly 
—Tpriaed  by  seeing  tbe  relleotion  of 


FonnlaiHt  afdu  Piazza  NoHiu.- 
Tliis  Piaiia  coulains  three  fountaii 
Thoae  at  tbe  eitremities  were  ereoted 
by  Gregory  XIII.  The  Triton  Iwld- 
ing  a  dolphin  by  tbe  tail  is  by  Ber- 
nini; hut  there  is  nothing  in  any  at 
the  figures  to  call  for  partieulai 
notice.  Tbe  central  fountain,  whigli 
supports  the  obelisk  brought  from  tbi 
circus  of  Romulus,  was  constructed 
by  Bernini  in  the  pontUioate  of  ~ 

lar  basin,  73  feet  in  diameter,  i 
mug  of  rock  in  the  eeutre,  to  wbich 
are  chained  four  river-gods,  npn^ 
senling  the  Danube,  the  Gange 
Nile,  and  the  Plate.  In  gtottoei 
piuiced  in  tbe  rock  are  placeda  sea- 
horse on  one  side,  and  a  lion  o 
oilier.  The  ligurcs  and  the  d 
of  the  whole  fountain  are  almost  be< 
low  ctiticista;  Forsyth  calla  it  " 
fable  of  Mnop  dune  into  stone."  lb 
Piazia  Navona  has  beeu  alreadj 
mentioned  under  the  head  "  Cii 


as  representing  tbi 
Circus  Aganalis,  u 
The  form  of  the  cii 
■till  be  traced.      I 

for    the    BUiLUeme 


ircus  Alexandri. 
<  at  one  end  ma; 
ing  the  lummei 


I  tbe^ 


ippearance  of  the  Fiam 

Fonlana  delta  Sarawcia,  in  tha, 
PioKia  di  Spagna,  built  in  the  form  of 
B  boat,  from  which  it  del 
It  was  designed  by  Bernini,  who  «St 
conipeUcd  to  adopt  this  ioTia  by  tbe 
imposbibility  of  lliruwing  the  watH 
aboie  the  level  of  tbe  boot.  It  has 
little  beauty  to  recommend  it.  but  ii 
skilfully  contrived,  under  the  oireiliB 
stances  which  controlled  the  wtiat  ii 
regard  to  the  supply  of  water.  Th 
Piazia  di  Spsgna  is  more  oeUbratod 
for  the  magnilicenl  flight  of  tnwer- 
line  steps  leading  to  the  Trinili  da' 
Monti,  begun  by  Innocent  XIII, 
from  the  deugns  of  Aleasondto  Spee- 
ch!, and  finished  by  Front 
Sanctis  in  the  pontiBcate  of  ' 
XIII. 
,       FonlaiuL  ddl'   Aequo.   fWie 


Papal  StatiesJ^   route  27.  —  Rome,  -t-  Statue  €f  Pasquin.    379 


FoHitana  dii  Termmt,  near  the  Baths 
of  IMocletian.  Under  the  former 
nune  it  has  been  celebrated  by 
Tasso  m  some  of  his  finest  JRur«. 
This  fountain  was  designed  by  Do- 
menieo  Fontana.  It  has  three  niohes. 
Id  the  central  one  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  Mosesstrikingtherock»by  Prospero 
da  Breaoia,  who  is  said  to  have  died 
of  grief  at  the  ridicule  excited  by  his 
performance.  In  the  side  nidies  are 
Bgures  of  Aaron,  by  Gio-battista  della 
Porta,  and  of  Gideon,  by  Flaminio 
Vaooa.  The  fountain  was  formerly 
adorned  by  four  lions:  the  twowhidi 
remain  are  modem  works  in  white 
marble ;  the  others,  of  black  Egyptian 
basalt,  have  recently  been  removed  to 
the  £g]rptian  museum  in  the  Vatican. 
They  were  found  in  front  of  the 
■Pbntheon. 

JFoimtoiiM  i»  Me  Piazza  of  St. 
FHa/'t.  — These  magnificent  but  sim- 
ple vases  are  perhaps  better  calculated 
to  give  general  pleasure  than  any 
other  fountains  in  Rome.  They 
were  designed  by  Carlo  Mademo. 
The  water  is  thrown  up  to  a  height  of 
about  18  foet,  and  falls  back  into  a 
basui  of  oriental  granite,  15  feet  in 
diameter;  it  runs  over  the  sides  of 
this  into  an  octagonal  basin  of  tra- 
▼ertine,  about  28  feet  in  diameter, 
forming  a  mass  of  spray  upon  which 
the  morning  sun  paints  the  most 
beautifol  rainbows.  The  height  of 
the  jet  above  the  pavement  of  the 
piasza  is  64  feet. 

Fountains  of  the  Famese  PiiUaee*  — 
Like  the  fountains  in  the  Piazza  of  St. 
Peter's,  these  are  simple  jets  fidling 
into  magnificent  basins  of  Egyptian 
granite,  found  in  the  Baths  of  Cara- 
calla. 

Fountain  of  the  Ponte  Sisto,  placed 
opposite  the  Via  Giulia,  near  the 
bridge  firom  which  it  takes  its  name. 
This  pretty  fountain  was  constructed 
by  Paul  v.,  from  the  designs  of  Fon- 
tana. It  is  formed  of  two  Ionic  co- 
lumns, sustaining  an  attic.  From  an 
aperture  in  the  large  niche  the  water 
foils  in  a  aoUd  body  into  a  basin  below. 
The  design  U  aimple,  mnd  free  from 


the  affectation  whidi  marks  so  many 
of  the  other  fountains. 

Fon^tna  dd  Campidoglio,  at  the 
foot  of  the  double  staircase  leading  to 
the  palace  of  the  Senator  on  the  Capi- 
tol. It  was  constructed  by  Sixtus  V., 
and  is  ornamented  with  three  ancient 
statues.  That  in  the  cent  A  is  a  sit- 
ting figure  of  Minerva,  in  Parian 
marble,  draped  with  porphyry :  it  was 
found  at  Cora.  The  coloesal  recum- 
bent figures  at  the  side  are  of  Grecian 
marble,  representing  the  Nile  and  the 
Tibar.  They  were  found  in  the  Co- 
lonna  Gardens,  and  are  referred*  by 
Nibby  to  the  time  of  the  Antonines. 

Foumtain  of  the  Monte  CavaUo,  con- 
structed by  Pius  VII.,  a  simple  but 
pretty  jet,  flowing  from  a  noble  basin 
of  grey  oriental  granite,  25  feet  in  di- 
ameter, which  was  found  in  the  Roman 
Forum*  and  brought  to  the  Monte 
Cavallo  by  Pius  VII.,  to  complete 
the  decorations  of  the  piazza. 

JPicuze. — The  Piazza  di  Spagna,  Pi* 
azza  Navona,  Piazza  del  Popolo,  and 
all  the  great  squares  in  firont  of  the 
principal  churches,  are  sufiSeiently  de« 
scribed  in  the  accounts  of  the  monu- 
ments or  public  buildings  from  which 
they  derive  their  names.  The  only 
one  which  remains  to  be  noticed  is  th6 
least  attractive,  though  not  the  least 
celebrated  of  them  all,  the 

Pifuxa  del  Paequino,  close  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Braschi  Palace,  near 
the  Piazza  Navona.  It  derives  its 
name  from  the  well-known  torso 
called  the  etaiue  of  Peuquin,  a  muti- 
lated fragment  ot  an  ancient  statue 
found  here  in  the  16th  century,  and 
considered  to  represent  Menelaus 
supporting  the  dead  body  of  Patro- 
dus.  Notwithstanding  the  injuries 
it  has  sustained,  enough  remains  to 
justify  the  admiration  it  has  received 
from  artists.  Bandinucci,  in  his  life 
of  Bernini,  tells  us  that  it  was  conu* 
dered  by  that  sculptor  the  finest  frag- 
ment of  antiquity  in  Rome.  It 
derives  its  modern  name  from  the 
tailor  Pasquin,  who  kept  a  shop  op- 
posite, wUi&Vi  "««&  ^'^  x«ek!\»L^^\v^  v:^ 
a\\  ihe  gouv^  ol  ^-fe  «A>3,  wA  Sxoiav 


mo 


BotiTK  57 ROMF. — Fai^ttbt. 


t*** 


which  their  Mlirlcul  willicismt  on  the 
tninnvii  and  roUin  of  the  lUy  ob- 
Uined  a  rnuly  cireuUtion.  The  fame 
«f  I'Mijulii  i*  iMtpduatcd  ill  the  term 
pa^quiiHtA,  Mnd  has  thus  lieeome 
Xunipcuii  but  Rome  ii  the  onl}' 
place  in  which  he  flourishn.  The 
MUU*  of*  Marfnrio,  which  formerly 
■Umd  iMir  the  arch  of  Septimiui  3e- 
venu,  ira<  made  ihe  vehicle  for  re- 

K'  'ug  to  tbe  Bltnckn  of  Fuqiiin,  and 
manf   yean  lliey  kept  up  a  con- 


Whei 


Marferio  «a* 

of  *hB  Capitol,  Ihe  Pope  wished  to 
rcmoTc  Pouguiii  aim;  bul  the  Duke  c 
a  Biawhi.  to  whom  he  beloiiKS  '< 
would  not  permit  it.  Adrian  VI.  b 
Bttenipted  to  arrest  hia  career  by  or-  r 
Bering  Ihg  slsluc  to  be  burnt  and  '  „ 
thrawn  into  the  Tiber;  but  one  of' 
Ac  pope'i  friendi,  Lodovico  Sueasano, ' 
■aved  him,  by  Buggesling  Ihat  hii  j  ( 
aihe*  would  turn  iiiio  frogs,  and  croak  .  ° 
more  terribly  than  before.  It  is  said  '  ° 
that  bis  owner  ii  compelled  to  pay  a  >' 
Bne  whenever  he  is  found  guilty  of  " 
Vahibiling    any  scandaloua   placards. 


urn."  During  a  Imd  banett  in  llie 
timeofl'lm  VI,,  wheu  thepognotla, 
□r  loaf  of  two  bajoechi,  liad  dccrcaaed 
considerably  in  aiie,  the  passion  of 
the  po]>e  for  Ibe  inKription  whidi 
records  his  muuilicenee  on  Iwo-lfairdt 
of  the  statues  in  the  Vatican,  was  n 
tirised  by  the  exhibition  of  one  ( 
the«  little  rolls,  with  the  inaeriptioa. 
••  ManiJiHiiliii  Pit  Sexli."  The  pro- 
ceeding) of  Fius  VI.  were  Arquently 
treated  by  Paicjiiin  with  eouuderaUe 
severity.  When  the  saeriatj  of  8fc 
Peter's  was  completed,  the  followinf 
inscription  was  placed  over  tlie  priu- 
cipnl  doot:  —  "  Quad  ad  TtmpH  Va- 
tictati  onuunentum  publica  votafia^ta^ 
bant,  Pi«$  yi.  fait,"  &g.  PaiqDin'i 
!ply  was  as  folioirs:  — 


The  n 


a  Itom: 


i 


I^uin  as  part  of 
temi  in  tbe  absence  of  a  free  press, 
be  bu  bacome  in  some  measure  tlie 
of  public  opinion,  and  there  is 
.RCBieely  an  event  upon  which  he  does 
pronounce  judgment.  Some  of 
sayings  are  eitreuicly  bruad  fur 
atmosphere  of  Home,  hut  many  ' 
TU  them  are  very  witty  and  fully 
the  cliaracler  of  his  fellow- 
oitlaeiu  Tor  satirieni  epi|;Tnm^  and  re- 
partee. When  MeHofanti  wgs  made 
B  oardioal,  Pasquiu  declared  that  it 
was  a  tery  proper  afipointmeni,  for 
tiiere  oould  be  no  doubt  that  the 
Tower  oF  Babel,  "  it  Torre  di  Babel," 
required   an    interpreter.      On   the 

theG 

■hMm,  Fl'l'- 
mundi."  On  tlie  election  of  Pop 
Leo  X.,  ill  1440.  the  following  ss 
tiriail  acnistio  appeared,  to  mark  Ih 
dste  Mccc-cxi,  !  "  Midii  caci  cardinol 
cnacertiMl  etrcum    decimitm  (A')  Lt 


:??jir 


]■  ha  .bMllStll, 


Soon  after  the  decrees  of  Napoleo 
had  been  put  in  Girce,  the  city  wai 
desolated  by  a  severe  storm, 
which  Pa^quia  did  not  spare  the 


On  the  marriage  of  a  young  Ro 
called  Cesare,  to  a  girl  called  Roma, 
Poaquin  gave  the  following  advice:^ 
"  Cai'f,  Caiat,  nc  tua  Homa  Bi^puNka 
fiat  I"  On  the  neil  day  the  man  »• 
plied,    "  Catar  iiKpcrat  r      Pasquin. 

lanswetei,  "  Ergo  turimatttar."     I 


Papal  SkOes,'}    rt£.  27.— Rome. — BanUcas;  St.Peier^s.    381 


Dius  and  bis  two  suceessors,  as  libra- 
rians of  the  Vatican,  is  bistorically 
intemting.  Holsteoius  had  abjured 
Protestantism,  and  was  succeeded  in 
his  office  by  L«o  AUatius,  a  Chian, 
whqwasin  turn  succeeded  by  a  Syrian, 
SBvede  Assemani.  Pasquin  noticed 
these  events  in  the  following  lines:—- 

"FTibAiU  hsreticut.  Pott  hunc,  tchUmatlciu. 
At  nunc 
Turca  prcest.    Petri  bibliotheca,  vale !  ** 

Another  xemarkable  saying  is  re- 
corded  in  connection  with  the  cele- 
brated bull  of  Urban  VIII.,  excom- 
municating all  persons  who  took  snuff 
in  the  churches  of  Seville.  On  the 
publication  of  this  decree  Pasquin 
appropriately  quoted  the  beautiful 
paKsage  in  Job,  **  Wilt  thou  break  a 
leaf  driven  to  and  fro  ?  and  wilt  thou 
pursue  the  dry  stubble?*'  Contra 
folium,  quod  vento  rapitur,  ostencUs 
potentiam  tuamf  et  atipulam  siccam 
persequerii  f 

Basilicas. 

There  are  seven  Basilicas  in  Rome; 
four  within  the  walls — *St.  Peter*s, 
St.  John  Lateran,  Santa  Maria  Mag- 
giore,   and  Santa  Croce  in  Gcrusa- 
lemme ;  and  three  beyond  the  walls 
—  San  Paolo,   San  I^renzo,  and  San 
Sebastiana       The   first  churches  of 
the  early   Christians  were  undoubt- 
edly those  edifices  which,  during  the 
latter  period  of  the  empire,  had  served 
as  the  seats  of  the  public  tribunals  or 
courts   of  Justice,  under  the  general 
name  of  Basilica.     On  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Christian  faith,  the  first 
churches  which  were  erected  expressly 
for  the  new  worship  appear  to  have 
been  built  on  the  plan  of  these  pre- 
existing  edifices,   probably  on  their 
very  sites.     Their  design  was  at  once 
simple  and  grand  :  the  form  was  ob- 
long, consisting  of  a  nave  and  two 
side  aisles,  which  were  separated  from 
the  nave  by  a  simple  line  of  columns; 
arches  sprang  from  these  columns,  sup- 
porting the  high   walls  which  sus- 
tained the  wooden  roof.     The  walls 
aborm  tbt  Mrebes  were  pierced  with 


windows,  by  which  the  whole  build- 
ing was  lighted.  In  some  instances, 
as  in  the  case  of  St.  ApoUinare  in 
Classe,  at  Ravenna,  the  tribune,  or 
absii,  was  raised  above  the  level  of  the 
church,  and  covered  with  mosaics. 
Externally  there  was  a  square  build- 
ing in  front,  called  the  quadri-porti- 
cus,  having  a  colonnade  round  eacb 
side  of  the  square.  The  Roman  ba- 
silicas have  undei^one  numerous  ad- 
ditions and  alterations  in  modem 
times,  and  many  of  them  have  lost 
their  characteristic  features ;  but  they 
still  retain  their  ancient  rank  as  me- 
tropolitan churches,  and  have  other 
parishes  subordinate  to  them.  The 
old  St.  Peter*s  had  all  the  peculiarities 
of  the  basilica ;  and  for  this  reason 
the  present  building  preserves  its  title, 
although  all  the  features  of  the  ori- 
ginal construction  have  disappeared. 
We  shall  therefore  commence  our 
description  of  the  churches  with 
this  most  magnificent  of  Chrbtiaa 
temples,  which  our  great  historian  of 
the  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman 
£mpire  designates  as  **  the  most  glo- 
rious structure  that  ever  has  been 
applied  to  the  use  of  Religion.'* 

] .  St.  Pxtkr*s.  —  As  early  as  a.  d. 
90,  St.  Anaclctus,the  bishop  of  Rome, 
who  had  received  ordination  from  St. 
Peter  himself,  erected  an  oratory  on 
the  site  of  the  present  structure,  to 
mark   the  spot   where  the  Apostle, 
after  his  crucifixion  on  the  site  of  S. 
Pietro  in  M ontorio,  was  interred,  and 
where  so  many  of  the  early  Christians 
had   suffered   martyrdom.      In   306, 
Constantino  the  Great  built  a  basilica 
on   the  spot,  which  continued  from 
that  time  to  be  the  great  attraction  of 
the   Christian   world.     The  front  of 
this  basilica  may  be  seen  in  RaphaePs 
celebrated    fresco,    representing    the 
Incendio  del  Borgo ;  and  the  interior 
is   introduced   in   his    other    fresco, 
representing  the  coronation  of  Charle- 
magne.    In  the  time  of  Nicholas  V. 
(1450)  it  had  fallen  into  ruin,  and 
that  pope  had  already  begun  a  new 
and  more  e%l«ii%\.N«  W\\&vcv^^xw^« 
1  plans  of  B^tivM^AXkO  '^B.ww^viv  %sA. 


I 


Lvou  Dulliua  Albcni,  vhcii  Ihc  i>ri>- I  tlic   reipi    of    Clement   VII. 
snia  orthe  wurU  vu  unccted  by  his  !  net t  pope,  Paul  III.,  on  his  acce     _.. 
■Mth-      I"*!!!   "■  continued   the  Hb- '  in  1534.  employed  Antonio  Sangdio, 
~t    wiH    wlvBiicin);   rety  |  rrho  ntiuned  lo  Raphaerg  plan  of  ■ 
_,  ._  locesaioD  of  Julius  II.,    Latin   ciosb.  and  altered  ibe  arrange- 

dncnnined.  with  liis  acciutomed  '  menl  of  the  whole  building,  *i  jjoiy 
to  resume  the  vorkton  aiyi- '  be  seen  from  Wa  de«igD<  which  an 
pUn,  Vasari  ti'lli  ui  tbsl  lie  pteserred  in  the  Vatican,  but  he  died 
■nimiled  to  Ibu  task  by  ihe  de-  before  be  could  carry  any  of  thea 
for  hit  tomb,  which 'Michael  into  efiecl.  The  pope  appointed 
„  itu  had  ju)t  completed,  lie  ac-  '  Giulio  Romano  oi  his  succeesor ;  hut 
•ordingiy  aecurcd  the  awistance  of '  here  ngtiiii  the  same  latality  oecurted. 
BtamanMi  who  entered  U|H>n  his  du-  aod  tho  death  of  that  artist  ia  iba 
tin  in  1503.  and  began  by  pulling  '  same  year  prervuted  his  entering  oa 
down  half  the  valla  vhich  had  been  I  the  engagement.  The  work  vaa  th« 
mMted  by  his  predecessors.  His  plan  committed  to  Michael  Angdo,  tbm 
WM  a  Greek  erasE,  with  a  portico  of  seienty-two  years  of  age.  The  le 
tin  cdumna,  and  an  immense  cupola  conferring  this  appoinlment  is  : 
in  the  middle  of  the  church,  supported  preserved.  Thi-  pope  gate  bim 
oa  bur  oolotsal  piers.  In  1506  Jn-  limited  authority  to  alter,  or  ] 
liuB  II,  laid  the  roundatim  of  Bra-  '  down,  or  remodel  the  building,  i 
■Mate's  building,  under  Ihe  pier  ciselyon  his  awn  pUns.  Paul!  _. 
•gatnil  which  thestalue  of  S.  Veronica  died  in  1519,  and  his  successor,  Juliui 
now  rtands.  The  four  piers,  and  Lhe  III.,  in  spite  of  all  apposition  lioB 
■foliCB  which  spring  from  them,  weta  I  conlemporory  artists,  confirmed  the 
,  Am  only  parts  completed  before  Bra-  I  appointment  of  Michael  Angelo.  St- 
rBMite'i  dnch  iu  1514.  In  the  pr»- '  veral  letters  are  in  exi^tmce,  in  which 
irious  year  Julius  had  been  succeeded  the  LIuiltious  artist  describes  tbcaiit- 
IqrLeoX.  The  new  pontiff  appointed  I  noyances  to  which  he  was  subjected 
•a  his  arshiteets  Giuliano  San^fallo,  in  the  progress  of  his  task ;  and  oi 
(^oTanni  da  Verona,  nnd  Hapliael,  written  lo  him  by  Vasari  is  wi 
wlio  has  left  some  lery  interesting  i  known,  in  which  he  advises  him 
Utters  relating  to  his  appointment.  |"  fly  Irom  the  ungrateful  Babylon, 
Sangallo  however  died  in  151T,  and  I  which  was  unable  to  appreciate  h' 
Rapbael  was  carried  off  prematurely  I  genius."  Michael  Anfielo  immed 
in  1520.  Raphaers  plun,  which  was  ately  returned  to  the  design  of  a  Creak 
a  Latin  cross,  may  be  seen  in  Serlio's  |  cross,  enlarged  the  tribune  and  tha 
work  upon  architecture ;  but  neither  ,  two  transepts,  strenphened  the  pien 
he  nor  his  colleagues  had  done  laucli  tot  the  second  lime,  and  began  tbe 
more  than  strengthen  the  four  piers,  dome  on  a  plan  different  from  tbst  of 
which  had  been  found  too  weak  he-    Bramante.  declaring   that   he  w     " 

fiire  the  death  of  Bramante,      Leo  X.  '  raise  the  Pantheon  in  the  air.      

then  employed    Baldassare    Pcruzii, '  drum    of  tbe    dome   was    completed 

Who  despairing  of  being  obie  to  meet    when  the  great  artist  was  carried  off 

fileexpenseof  iiaptiaerspIan,chiinBed|by  death    in    1SG3,  at  tbe  ape  of  89. 

Oe  design   from  s  Latin  to  a  Greek  |  'llie    chief  peculiarity    of  his   d 

erass.      The   death   of  Leo    in    1521    consisted    in    being    double,    a   . 

checked  the  progress  of  the  works,    which  was  fortunBlcly  adopted  by  bis 

immediate    successors .  suoccssorE,    who    finished    it    on  die 

contribute  in  any  ma-  '  precise  plans  and  measurements  which 

terial  degree  towards  theeiecution  of  ^  be  bad  binuelf  laid  down.      Another 

""    design,  so  that  Feruiti  was  un- 1  part   of  bis   design   was   to   build   a 

to  da  maeh  more  than  erect  the   Coruithian  faip^  in  the  style  of  the 

vbieb  was  completed  during    Pantheoo,  wbuJo,  conJcniiei.  ■•nSi 


|i. 


Pc^Siaies.']   rte.  27— ROME«^J&an/uMw/  StPeier's.    388 


Greek  cross,  would  have  allowed  the  ' 
whole  dome  to  have  been  visible  from 
the  front.  Three  years  after  his  death, 
in  1566,  Pius  V.  appointed  Vignola 
and   Pirro  Ligorio  as  his  successors, 
with  strict  injunctions  to  adhere  to 
the  pliinB  of  M.  Angelo  in  every  par- 
ticular.   Vignola  constructed  the  two 
lateral  cupolas,  but  neither  he  nor  his 
colleague  lived  to  complete  the  dome.  | 
Tliis  honour  was  reserved  for  Giacomo 
della  Porta,  who  was  appointed  under 
Gregory  XIII. ;  he  brought  it  to  a ! 
successful  termination  in  1 590,  in  the 
pontificate  of  Sixtus  V.,  who  was  so 
anxious  to  see  it  finished,  that  he  de- 
voted  100,000  gold  crowns  annually 
to  the  work,  and  employed  600  work- 
men upon  it  night  and  day.     When 
the  dome  was  finally  completed  it  was 
calculated  that  30,000  lbs.  weight  of 
iron  had  beoi  used  in  its  construction. 
Giacomo  della  Porta  continued  to  be 
employed   by   Clement   VIII.,    and 
adorned  the  interior  of  the  dome  with 
mosaics.     At  his  death,  in  1601,  the 
plan  of  Michael  Angelo  had  been  faith- 
fully executed  so  fkr  as  the  works  had 
then  adYanced,  and  the  only  portions 
remaining  to  be  added  were  the  fa9ade 
and  portico.     In  1605  Paul  V.  (Bor- 
ghese)  succeeded  to  the  popedom,  and 
being  desirous  of  seeing  the  whole 
building  completed  in  his  reign,  pulled 
down  all  that  was  then  standing  of  the  | 
old  basilica,  and  laid  the  foundation  of 
the  new  front  in  1 608.     lie  employed 
Carlo  Maderno,  the  nephew  of  Fon- ; 
tana,  as  his  architect,  who  abandoned  j 
the  plan  of  Michael  Angelo,  and  re- 
turned to  the  Latin  Cross,  as  origi- 
nally designed  by  Raphael.     He  also 
built  the  fe^ade,  which  ail  critics  con- 
cur in  condemning  as  unsuitable  to 
the  original  design.      Its  great  defect 
is  the  concealment  of  the  dome,  which 
is    so     much   hidden    by   the   front, 
that  there  is  no  point  of  the  piazsa 
from  which  it  can  be  combined  in  its 
full  proportions  with  the  rest  of  the 
fabric.      The   effect   of   its  gigantic 
size  is  therefore  lost,  and  the  front,  in- 
stead of  being    subservient    to    the 
dome,  h  made  to  appear  ao  prominent, 


that  the  grandest  feature  of  the  build- 
ing hardly  seems  to  belong  to  it. 
Notwithstanding  this  defect,  it  ean 
scarcely  be  doubted  that  Maderno  has 
been  more  severely  criticised  than  be 
deserved.  The  circumstances  which 
controlled  his  design  seem  to  have  been 
altogether  forgotten,  for  although  the 
heavy  baloonius  which  intersect  the 
columns  of  the  fk9ade  lessen  the  effect 
and  size,  it  is  obvious  that  they  were 
necessary  for  the  papal  benedicticm, 
and  that  any  front  in  which  they  did 
not  form  an  essential  part  would  have 
been  as  great  an  anomaly  as  the  balc<my 
in  our  own  St.  Paul's,  where  it  is  not 
requireil.  The  judgment  of  Forsyth, 
which  it  has  been  the  fiushion  to  adopt 
without  reflection,  dwells  on  Mader- 
no's  works  with  a  harshness  of  cri- 
ticism, strangely  in  contradiction  to 
his  praise  of  the  nave  and  vestibule. 
The  plan  of  the  Latin  cross  was  not 
a  novelty,  but  merely  a  return  to  the 
plan  of  Raphael :  a  proceeding  ren« 
dered  necessary  by  the  determination 
of  the  pope  to  include  that  portion  of 
the  site  of  the  old  basilica  which  had 
become  sacred  from  its  shrines,  and 
which  had  been  entirely  excluded  in 
the  plan  of  Michael  Angelo.  The 
nave  was  finished  in  1612 ;  the  facade 
and  portico  were  finished  in  1614; 
and  the  church  was  dedicated  by  Ur- 
ban VIII.,  on  the  18th  November, 
1626.  Under  Alexander  VII.,  in 
1667,  Bernini  began  the  magnificent 
colonnade  which  surrounds  the  piaxsa, 
Pius  VI.,  in  1780,  built  the  sacristy 
from  the  designs  of  Carlo  Marchionni, 
gilded  the  roof  of  the  interior,  and 
placed  the  two  clocks  on  the  fagade. 
From  the  first  foundation,  therefore^ 
in  1450,  to  the  dedication  of  the  fabric 
by  Urban  VIII.,  the  building  occu- 
pied a  period  of  176  years ;  and  if  we 
include  in  the  calculation  the  works 
of  Pius  VI.,  we  shall  find  that  it  re- 
quired  three  centuries  and  a  half  to 
bring  the  edifice  to  perfection,  and 
that  its  progress  during  that  period 
extended  over  the  reigns  of  no  less 
than  forty-three  ^^^.  T^^  «<L^«cMn 
( of  the  iroikB  ^«^  lo  \gL«ttX  >CwiX>a«{C». 


•uftSr.— mSM*.— AuOfucf  SLJtei'*,  1^ 


u  pucpos 


JuUui  11.  and  Leo  X. 
Mic  1^  iiiilulgviico  for 
Diecitng  them.  Tlie  einu  lo  wnicii 
thu  pnetiec  wu  evricil  it  uid,  botli 
bj  Roman  Catholic  and  Prolestant 
<rrit«*i  lo  have  created  tlial  reaclion 
which  (niltd  in  the  Rerurmation.  At 
(kadoHnrthe  ITIh  cmturir  the  eoil 
w*  fathnaled  bj  Carlo  Fontana  at 
4e,S0a49S  Mudi  (lO.OOQ.OOOf.),  e>- 
cloain  of  the  ncristy  (SOO.OOO  scudi), 
ksll-lowen.  inodeU  mDEaifs,  &e.  The 
qiacc  emaed  by  the  building!  of  St. 
Petet't  it  uid  10  be  340.000  niji 


'  coniiderably  to  ilimiiiinh  the  eflbcl 
■he  building  wben  seen  from  the  ei- 

ijuile  unable  lo  appreciate  Ibe  great 
distance  from  the  end  of  the  colon- 
nsdu  to  the  fafudc  and  it  is  only  by 
■Talking  up  to  the  steps  that  tbi 
atrangi>r  can  believe  that  there  is  a 
ipacfl  of  SSefEct  frotn  the  point  wher^ 
Ihe  colonnades  terminate  to  the  pi 
ticD  of  tlie  baulica.  At  the  niigte*  of 
the  first  flight  of  steps,  are  tvoatatuo 
(if  St  Peler  aud  St.  Paul,  which  an 
the  n-ork  of  Mioo  da 


„  nal  plan  of  Bramante  Fiesolc. 
would  hare  coicred  350,000  square  j  The  Fofadt  is  built  entirely  of  tn- 
bet.  or  about  SI  English  acres.  The  veriine,  from  the  desitins  of  Carlo  Ha- 
annual  eipenditurc  on  repairs,  so- '  iterno.  It  is  368  feet  long  and  145 
perlnlendence,    &c.   is  300,000  aeudi :  feet  high  ;  but  it  is  more  adapted  to 


(GSOOf.).  I  a  palace  than  t 

After  Ibis  general  sketch  of  Ihe  his-  calculated  lo  harmonise  with  such  ■ 
lory  of  Ihe  edifice,  we  shall  proceed  to  .  slructure  as  the  dome.  It  bas  three 
the  details,  beginning  vilh  the  storiesaiid  an  attic,  with  eight  columns 

ajoKmalii.—U  is  scarcely  possible  and  four  pilasters  of  the  Corinlhisn 
to  imagine  anything  so  perfeetlyailnpt-  order.  Each  story  has  nine  windowi, 
«d  to  the  front  of  (he  basilica,  or  so  i  and  Is  disfigured  by  (he  heavy  baU 
well  contrived  (□  conceal  the  build.  J  conies,  from  which  the  pope  bestowi 
Ings  on  each  side  of  Che  pliuza,  at .  his  benediction  on  the  people  at 
tbe*e  noble  struc(ureK.  Tliey  were  Easter.  The  columns  are  B\  feel  is 
built  by  Uuruim,  in  the  pondlicate  of,  diame(er  and  91  feet  liigli,  including 
Alexander  VII.  (1657-67).  and  are  the capiuls.  On  the  attic  are  thirtaen 
pnerally  considered  aa  his  master-  colossal  statues,  17  feet  high,  repie- 
pkce.  They  are  semicircular,  60  fcet  senling  the  Saviour  and  tlie  Twelve 
wide  and  61  feet  high,  supported  by  !  Apostles.  An  inscription  on  the  frieae 
four  rows  of  columns,  arranged  so  as  !  of  ihe  entablature  records  the  dedie*- 
to  leate  sufficient  room  between  the  tlon  of  Paul  V.  Five  open  entrances 
.  Into  the  magnificent  Futibule,  439 
loug,  Gi  feet  high,  aud  47  &et 
id,  including  (li    ' 


inner  rows  for  the  passage  of  two  ( 
tiagei  altreail.  The  imoibet  of 
lumns  in  Ihe  two  colonnades  ia  S 
beMdei  64  pilasters.  On  the  er 
blature  are  1 93  statues  of  saints,  e: 
IE  feet  in  height.      The  whole  str 


■andlh 

The  area  inclosed  by  these  ealonnades 
measures  in  its  Rrealest  diameter  777 
English  feet.  The  colonnades  termi- 
nate in  two  covered  Galliria,  360  feet 
long  and  S3  feet  broad,  which  com- 
municate Willi  the  vestibule  of  St 
Peter').  These  galleries  are  not  pa- 
rallel la  each  other,  but  form  with  the 
front  an  irregular  square,  which  be- 
f  broader  as  it  approaches  the 
23^11    srrangemcnt    tends 


At  each  end  la  an  equesti 
that  on  Ihe  right  is  Bernini's  altiicted 
statue  of  Conatantine,  thai  on  the  left  it 
the  Charlemagne  of  Curna echini,  both 
unworthy  of  such  an  nrchitecturaL 
picture  as  that  presented  by  tha 
vestibule.  Over  tlie  central  entrance 
of  the  vestibule,  and  consequently 
opposite  the  great  door  of  the  ba- 
ailica,  is  the  celebrated  mosaic  of 
the  Navicella,  representing  St.  Peter 
walking  on  (lie  sea,  sustained  by 
the  Saviour.  It  was  eieotttod  by 
Giotta  in  1398,  assisted  by  hie  pupil 
Sielro  CaiaKiii,  »n4-w»4  ^\wied  over 


PtgMil S^ies.2  Rte.  27.— Rome. — Basilicas;  St.  Peier's.     385 


the  east  entrance  to  the  quadriporti- 
cus  of  the  old  hasilica.  On  the  de- 
struction of  that  basilica,  the  mosaic 
changed  places  several  times,  and  was 
at  length  placed  in  its  present  posi- 
tion by  Cardinal  Barberini.  It  has 
suffered  severely  from  repairs,  and 
Ijanzi  says  it  *'  has  been  so  much  re- 
paired, that  it  has  lost  its  original 
design,  and  seems  to  be  executed  by 
an  altogether  different  artist.^  The 
original  drawing  for  it  is  preserved 
in  the  church  of  the  Capuccini.  There 
are  five  doors  leading  into  the  basilica, 
corresponding  with  the  entrances  of 
the  vestibule.  The  bronze  doors  of 
the  central  entrance,  which  are  only 
opened  on  great  festivals,  belonged  to 
the  old  basilica,  and  were  executed 
in  the  pontificate  of  Eugenius  IV.,  in 
the  15th  century,  by  Antonio  Fila- 
reta,  and  Simone,  brother  of  Dona- 
tcllo.  The  bas-reliefs  of  the  compMt- 
xnents  represent  the  martyrdom  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and  some  events 
in  the  history  of  Eugenius  IV.,  parti- 
cularly the  coronation  of  the  emperor 
Sigisraund  and  the  council  of  Flo- 
rence, which  took  place  in  his  reign. 
The  bas-reliefs  of  the  frame- work  are 
by  no  means  in  character  with  the 
building ;  they  represent  satyrs, 
nymphs,  and  various  mythological 
subjects,  among  which  Leda  and  her 
swan,  Ganymede,  &c.,  may  be  recog- 
nised. Near  this  doorway  are  three 
inscriptions,  containing  the  bull  of  i 
Bonifiu;e  VI 1 1.,  in  1300,  granting 
the  indulgence  proclaimed  at  every 
recurrence  of  the  jubilee ;  the  verses 
composed  by  Charlemagne  on  Adrian 
I. ;  and  the  donation  made  to  the 
church  by  S.  Gregory  II.  One  of 
the  adjoining  doors,  which  is  walled 
up  and  marked  by  a  cross  in  the  mid< 
die,  is  the  Porta  Santa,  which  is  pulled 
down  by  the  pope  in  )>crson  on  the 
Christmas  eve  of  the  jubilee,  which 
has  taken  place  every  twenty-five 
years  since  the  time  of  Sixtus  IV. 
The  pope  begins  the  demolition  of 
the  door  by  striking  it  three  times 
with  a  silver  hammer,  and  at  the 
close  of  the  eenmon/,  the  dates  of  the 


last  two  jubilees  are  always  placed 
over  the  entrance.  The  jubilees  which 
have  taken  place  in  the  present  century 
have  been  that  of  1800,  in  the  pontifi- 
cate of  Pius  VII. ;  that  of  1 825,  in  the 
pontificate  of  Leo  XII. ;  and  that  of 
1850,  in  the  pontificate  of  Pius  IX. 

The  Interior,  in  spite  of  all  the 
criticisms  of  architects,  is  worthy  of 
the  most  majestic  temple  of  the 
Christian  world.  Whatever  may  be 
the  defects  of  particular  details,  what- 
ever faults  the  practised  eye  of  an  ar- 
chitect may  detect  in  some  of  the 
minor  ornaments,  we  believe  tliat  the 
nainds  of  most  persons  who  enter  it 
for  the  first  time  are  too  much  ab- 
sorbed by  the  unrivalled  unity  of  its 
proportions  to  listen  to  any  kind 
of  criticism.  The  one  great  defect 
is  the  apparent  want  of  magnitude 
which  strikes  every  one  at  first  sight. 
The  mind  does  not  at  once  become 
conscious  of  its  immensity,  and  it  is 
only  after  its  component  parts  have 
been  examined,  and  perhaps  only  after 
several  visits,  that  the  gigantic  scale 
of  the  building  can  be  appreciated. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  co- 
lossal size  of  the  statues  contributes 
in  a  great  degree  to  diminish  the  ap- 
parent magnitude  of  the  building ; 
the  eye  is  so  unaccustomed  to  figures 
of  such  proportions,  that  they  supply 
a  false  standard  by  which  the  specta- 
tor measures  the  details  of  the  build- 
ing, without  being  sensible  of  the 
fact 

*<  But  thou,  of  tcmiiles  old,  or  altart  new, 
Standest  alone— with  nothing  like  to  thee  — 
Worthiest  of  God,  ^e  holv  and  the  true. 
Since  Zion't  desolation,  when  that  He 
Fi)rsooli  hit  former  citv.  what  could  be. 
Of  earthlv  ttructures,  in  hit  honour  piled. 
Of  a  sublimer  as|iect  ?    MiOntv, 
Power,  glory,  strength,  and  beauty— all 
are  aisled 

In  this  eternal  ark  of  worship  undefiled. 

Enter :  its  grandeur  overwhelms  thee  not ; 
And  why  ?Tt  is  not  lessen *d ;  but  thy  mind. 
Expanded  by  the  genius  of  the  spot. 
Has  grown  colossal,  and  can  only  fliul 
A  fit  at)ode  wherein  a«>ear  enshrined 
Thy  hopes  of  immortality ;  and  thou 
Shalt  one  day,  if  found  worthy,  so  defined. 
See  thy  God  face  to  face,  as  thou  duk^tyn« 
Hit  Ht^f  of  Ho\\«i«  T^QC  \)ft  \&mx«^  \s^  Vvx 


iKnmflT.  —  aMtK. —  SatUkttgi  jjfc  jPt«wi^< 


3M 

nic  mcinirements  of  Si.  Peti-r's  ru]H.U  U  139  fcet.3  f 
hnic  b«vn  (Uted  vcijr  diflbrtintly  bjf  i>r  Ibc  rnnllieuu.  1 
iho  dillcreril  •uthotiliea;  pcihipi  be-  Jumc  Trom  tlicpaven 
vaUH  sulScieol  dulincDon  lui  nol  tlic  Ijuncrn  it  tOS  fee 
n  Iwtircen  the  Romitn  tool,  I 


^5W 


the  Frriicb  foot,  and  the  pali: 
llic  pavctiH-nt  of  the  natti  »  a  lui 
IH1  whieli  arc  marked  the  respectii 
Itn^s  of  Si.  Felcr'a  and  live  ollic 
cliuicbei,  St.  Peter'*  u  there  itUt«l 
lo  be  8:)T  palnu,  vhlch,  calculating 
ItMpaliaat  a'7S5  English  iaehea  (or 
H|  l>t»iij),  will  giite  61Si  English 
fi>ct:  St.  Puil'i,  London.  TIO  palm^ 
(590)  bel)',  Milan  Cathedml,  GOti 
|>alRu  (443  fceOi  Si.  PbuI's,  Borne, 
5T9  palnu  (4]g|  feel}:  St  Sophia, 
C(mil*ntinaple,492]i>lmi(360{feet> 
Thcsg  tneuuremenu  »te  »uty  pro- 
bibl)'  only  an  apptoilmDlion  to  the 
truth  ;  and,  indeed,  it  would  be  diffi- 
Fult  to  End  any  building  of  great 
mosnilule  in  which  all  the  auihori- 
liei  i^ree  in  regard  to  siie.  The 
following  are  the  meiunircments  of 
.  the  different  pails  of  St.  Peter's,  in 
Engliab  feel,  reduced  From  the  Roman 

mitoh  to  be  desired  thai  tome  oompi!- 
teat  Engliih  archiiect  vtoulil  ve  " 
the  .pot,       ■ 


434J  ftet, 
sa  remcnts, 
Paul's   Cathedral, 


St.   Peter'. 


jiceedi    at 


tcllen  B 


n  Engliih  feet.      By  tl 
reduction  of  the  p^m,  reckoning  it 
6-795   E»g.  incbea,   it  appettra   tb 
the  length  of  the  interior,  from  i: 
main  entrance  to  the  end  of  the  ti 
biine,  eiclusive  of  the   Ihiclciiess  uf 
ibc  walls,  ii  nearly  608  English  (v: 
The  height  ofihe  naic  near  the  door 
is  159  feet,  the  width  at  this  porlini 
h  90  feet.      Towards  the  baldacchini 
the  width  decreases  to  TB  feet      Tin 
width  of  ibaside  alsleaiaSl  feat;  am 
their  height  47  feet.      The  length  of 
the  transepts,  from  wall  to  wall, 
450Jleet.     The  heiglil  afthebaldf 
chino,  from  the  paYement  to  the  t 
of  the  croas,  is  94^  feet.      The  c 
cumference  of  the  four  great  pilli 
which  support  the  dome,  is  S94  fe 
The  diameter  of  the  eopola,  including 
t/ie  eiteraal  v/aUn,  is  1 95^  feet,  nearly 
S  /eel  more  tbaa  that  of  the  Pantheon  ] 


length,  by  88 

by  G*   feel ;  and  in  the  diamelei  «f 

the  cupola,  including  the  thicknera  of 
the  walls,  by  50  feet. 

The  nave  is  vaulted  and  ornamented 
with  sunk  colTers,  richly  decorated 
with  gilding  and  stucco  omainento. 
File  massive  piers,  supporting  four 
irches,  separate  the  nave  from  each 
iide  aisle.  Each  pier  is  faced  with 
:wa  Corinthian  pilasters  of  slucia, 
having  two  niches  between  them ;  tha 
'  iches  contain  colossal  statue* 

I,  the  founders  of  difTerent  re- 
ligltnis  orders.  CorrespDuding  widi 
the  great  arches  of  Ihe  nave  are  cha- 
pels in  tlie  side  aisles,  which  tend  to 
break  the  general  effect  bj  their  in- 
terrupting liues,  and  reduce  the  aide 
aisles  to  the  appearance  of  posi^ei. 
Wiih  the  eieeplion  of  the  pilastBi% 
the  walls  and  piers  are  generally  Sued 
with  plates  of  marble,  richly  varied 
with  medallions  and  other  sculplim& 
Many  of  the  upper  decorations  are  in 
stucco;  the  two  recumbent  Virtue" 
over  each  arch  are  of  this  material. 

marbles,  arranged  under  the  directiou 
of  Giacomo  della  Porta  and  Bernini. 
The  FaMj  for  the  holy  water,  out. 
taincd  by  cherubs,  give  a  striking 
example  of  the  immense  scale  of  the 
building,  and  tlie  proportion  of  ita 
component  parts.  On  entering  the 
ehurih,  the  cherubs  appear  of  the  or- 
dinary siie,  and  it  is  only  when  they 
are  approached  or  compared  with 
;ure.  that  they  sra  found 


"Ek. 


the  great  object  whiDh 
Rommands  the  admiration  of  the 
stranger  who  vbits  SI.  Peter's  for  the 


t/ie  diameter  of  the  i 


r  of  t\ie\  il(»i5vau\t.,te 


Papal  Siaies.']  rte.  27. — Rome. — Basilicas;  St, Peter's.    387 

piers ;  and  no  language  can  do  justice  j  S.  Longinus,  formerly  kept  in  the  hal- 


lo its  suhlime  effect.  The  surprise 
of  the  beholder  is  increased  by  the 
recollection  thdt  there  is  another 
outer  cupola,  and  that  the  staircase 
which  leads  to  the  summit  passes  be- 
tween them.  Each  of  the  four  piers 
has  two  niches,  one  above  the  other. 
The  lower  ones  contain  the  statues  of 


cony  over  his  statue,  is  now  preserved, 
with  numerous  other  relics,  in  that  of 
S.  Veronica.  No  one  is  allowed  to 
visit  these  relics  who  has  not  the  rank 
of  a  canon  of  the  church;  and  it  is 
said  that  the  sovereigns  and  princes 
who  have  been  admitted  to  examine 
them  have  first  received  that  rank  as 


S.  Veronica,  holding   the    Sudarium,   an  honorary  distinction.     The  spiral 
by  Franeetco  Mochi ;  S.  Helena  with   columns   in   the   niches  are  said    to 
the  Cross,  by  'Andrea  BcHgi;  S.  Lon-   have  been  brought  by  Titus  from  the 
ginus,  the  soldier  who    pierced  the  :  Temple  at  Jerusalem:  they  belonged 
side  of  our  Saviour,  by  ^emtni;  and  I  to   the    old   basilica.      Above   these 
St.    Andrew,     by    Fiammingo    (Du  ,  niches,  on  the  spandrils  of  the  arches, 
Quesnoy).     Each  of  these  is  about '  are  four  medallions,  representing  in 
1 6  feet  high.     The  St.  Andrew  is  the   mosaic  the  four  Evangelists,  with  their 
only  one  which  possesses  merit  as  a   emblems ;  the  pen  in  the  hand  of  St. 
work  of  art:  the  otherthree,  like  all  the  .  Mark  is  said  to  be  six  feet  long.     On 
statues  in  St.  Peter*s,  with  the  excep-  '  the  frieze  above,  running  round  the 
tion  of  some  of  the  recent  monumental    whole  circumference,  is  the  following 
figures,  are  in  the  worst  style  of  the   inscription  in  mosaic  ;  the  letters  are 
decline  of  art.     Above  them  are  four  '  also  said  to  be  six  feet  long :  tv  .  es 
balconies,  in  which  are  preserved  the   tetrvs  .  et  .  svper  .  hanc  .  petram  • 
relics  of  the  respective  saints.    In  that    aedificabo  .  EccLEsiAaf  .  meam  .  et  . 
over  the  statue  of  S.  Veronica,  is  kept   tibi  .  dabo  .  claves  .  regmi  .  coelo* 
the  S'tfdhrtKm,  or  handkerchief,  contain- !  RVM.       The   drum   of  the  cupola  is 
ing  the  impression  of  the  Saviour's  fea-   filled  with  thirty-two  coupled  pilas- 
tures,  which  is  shown  with  so  much  ce-  !  ters  of  the  Corinthian  order,  with  six- 
remony  to  the  people  during  the  holy  |  teen  windows.     The  concave  above  is 
week.   In  the  balcony  over  St.  Helena   divided  into    sixteen  compartments, 

is   preserved  a  portion   of  the   true ' 

cross;  and  in  that  over  St  Andrew  is  ',„„^„„,^  ^  ^hc  citizen,  by  the  Cardinal 
the  head  of  the  saint  *:  the  lance  of  Vicar;  all  the  bclU  in  Rome  rang  a  joyout 

■  peal  for  half  an  hour  after  the  Ave  Maria, 

I  the  cupola  of  St  Peter's  was  illuminated,  and, 
•  In  March,  18(8,  this  relic,  which  was  ,  bv  a  spontaneous  act  on  the  part  of  the 
brought  from  the  Pcloponnese  in  1462  people,  so  was  the  whole  city.  TV  Deum  waa 
(nine  years  after  the  taking  of  Constantino- ;  sung  the  next  day  at  St  Andrea  dclla  Vallo 
pie),  by  Cardinal  Bessarion,  and  deposited  in  and  St.  Peter's ;  and  on  the  5th  of  April,  in 
the  old  basilica  by  Pope  Plus  II.  with  his  the  following  week,  the  relic  was  carried 
own  hands,  was  stolen  fh>m  its  iMlcony  by  '  Arom  the  former  to  the  latter  church  in  a 
some  one  who  was  evidently  familiar  with  ,  procession  equally  vast  and  magnificent  with 
the  internal  arrangements  of  St.  Peter's.  The  '■  that  of  the  Corpus  Domini.  All  the  eccle- 
popular  belief  was,  that  the  Emperor  of  Aus-  ;  siastical  colleges,  relieious  orders,  chapters  of 
tria  or  the  Em|)erorof  Russia  had  something  ;  basilicas,  parochial  clergy,  &c.,  preceded  the 
to  do  with  the  affkir.  The  Pope  was  deeply  gorgeous  shrine  borne  by  the  canons  of  the 
afftcted  by  the  sacrilege ;  religious  services  |  Vatican.  The  relic  was  placed  In  a  glass 
were  ordered,  and  a  reward  of  500  scudi  coffer  on  a  kind  of  car,  ana  a  wide  silk  cano- 
waa  oflfercd  to  any  one,  not  even  excepting  .  py  supported  orer  it ;  after  which  walked  his 
the  culprit,  fur  the  recovery.  Independent  Holiness,  followed  bv  the  Sacred  Colleee,  the 
of  iu  sanctity,  it  had  a  value  of  another  Senate,  the  Roman  Princes,  the  members  ol 
kind,  for  it  is  enclosed  in  a  silver  bust  set  all  the  Casini,  and  (a  new  feature  in  such 
with  jewels,  the  value  of  which  has  been  es-  i  solemnities)  a  proccuion  of  noble  ladies,  all 
timated  at  18,000  scudi.  It  was  at  last  found,  I  in  black,  with  lace  veils  over  their  faces,  and 
with  the  jewels  detached,  but  deposited  near  carrying  tapers,  as  dkl  the  rest.  The  noble 
it,  buried  in  the  earth  beyond  the  PorU  St.  giumi,  the  municipality,  and  all  the  military 
Pancraiio ;  the  secret  is  said  to  have  been  re.  in  Rome,  brought  up  the  rear.  In  St  Peter's 
vealed  through  the  confessional,  the  iudicial  his  Holiness  gave  the  benediction  with  the 
investigation  was  therefore  suspended.  Pius  relic,  and  at  night  another  UlMmV.TV«\\&xi;\aRd3cv 
IX.  wept  for  jojwben  it  was  brought  and  ofthecU^  and^.'PeleTX  ^•^'^\^*^^\'«^'^^^ 
gUea  into  bb  own  bandi,    Tlte  event  was   wai  tlWl  moT«\)tv\\\«:(vX.\Yviccv\>cv«^^^N>« 


» 


Basilieat;   St.Peler's.  [SecL  I. 


ominwDWd  wiib  tplAtd  ituccoel  uid  (ue  of  Pint  VI.,  one  oT  (he  liiwtl 
nuwuci,  reprrapntinjj  Ihe  S«viour,  the  work*  of  Canora.  The  pope  i«  rqwe- 
Vitgin,»nd  different  ainls.  On  the  unted  pnving  before  the  tcnnh  of  th» 
ceiling  of  Ihe  linlctn  is  ■  niouic  of  Apostle:  the  attitude  and  poAioD 
Ihe  Almighty,  from  a  painling  of  ofthe  figure  irerr  pnscribed  b;  Kim. 
C«».  d'Aipino.  "  The  cupola,"  lajf  hini«lf  during  bit  taptivilj:  but  (he 
Fon]rth.  "  is  glorious,  viewed  in  il»  proprieiv  of  placing  anj  lUlue  in  a 
4esgn,  its  altitude,  or  ETen  ili  deco-  plaecorsuch  peculiacsanetitirhubeea 
nuioiui  liewed  cither  as  ■  whole  or  as  much  questioned,  and  the  poritioQ  ii 
K  pan,  it  encbanit  the  eje,  it  Hiti^ea  said  to  hare  been  greatly  regretted  by 
Ifae  taste,  it  eipuidi  llie  soul.  The  |  Caiioia  himself  On  the  right  ^de  of 
TBty  air  leeiiis  to  eat  up  all  that  is  ^  Ihe  nave,  placed  agaiosl  the  bat  |Ner, 
lianh  or  colosuil,  and  ]eavH  ui  no-  opposite  the  Confeeional,  i>  the  vcd- 
Uiing  but  Ibe  mblitac  to  feut  on :  —  [  koown  brooac  Sialiu  of  St.  Ptlrr,  tilting 
■  aubli me  peculiar  as  the  geniui  of  inacbaIr,witb(her!ghifoolcil«ided. 
the  immortal  aichllect.  and  compre-  On  entering  the  builic*,  Ihe  people 
heniible  only  on  (he  spot.  The  fjur  kiss  tlie  toe  of  this  fool,  pressing  their 
nuTOundiug  cupolas,  thau);b  but  (a-  ,  Ibiehcad  against  it  after  eaeb  salnM-' 
UlKtei  la  the  majesty  of  tUis,  might  tion.  Some  antiquBtiB  state  that  it 
luiTe  crowned  Ibur  elegant  churches,  n-ascasi  bf  St.  Leo,  out  of  the  bronia 
The  elliptical  cupolettas  are  mere  statue  of  Jupiter  Capitolfnui,  and 
upcdieols  to  palliate  the  defect  of  other  irriiers  of  more  recent  dates*. 
UfaderiKi's  aisles,  which  depend  on  serl  Ihat  it  is  the  identiml  statue  of 
them  for  a  scanty  light."  Jupiler  hinueir.lranaforninl  into  ttnt 

The  BaUocrklio,  or  grand  canopy  of  the  Apoatle  by  the  mandate  of  ilia 
covering  ihc  high  altar,  stands  immc-  pope.  The  altitude  cerliioly  eor- 
dialely  under  the  dome.      1 1  is  of  to.    re^onds  irith  that  of  Jupiter  Cafnlo- 


I 


I  beyond  Ai^i 


ted  by  four  spiral    linus.    as    ire  tec   i 
columns  of  the  composite  order,  and 
covered  vitb  the  richest  omanunt^. 
many  of  vhich  are  gilt.     It  is  9*\ 
feet  high  to  the  tnmmil  of  the  globe 

1633,  out  of  the  bronio  itripped 
fltiia  the  Pantheon  by  Urban  VIII., 
of  the  Barberini  family,  whose  armo- 
rial device,  a  bet,  may  be  recognised 
on  all  ports  of  the  work.  The  cost  of 
the  gilding  alone  it  said  lo  have  been 
40,000  scudii  the  eott  of  the  whole 
canopy  was  100.000  scudi,  nearly 
SSJXXK.      The  weight  is  said  to  be 

186,000  Iba.  The  H!pk  Altar,  under  identical  chair  in  which,  aecordiDg  M 
the  baldacchino,  stands  immediately  the  Church  tradition,  St  Fcler  wot 
over  the  grare  of  St.  Peter.  The  al-  many  of  hitsucceuorsoSiciatcd-  TTw' 
Ut  it  only  used  on  solemn  eeremoniet,  bronie  covering  was  cieeuled  bj 
when  the  pope  officiates  in  person,  tini  in  1667,  and  is  fiitl  of  ridicukni* 
The  Confaiiirmii  is  surrounded  by  a  conceits.  It  if  mpporled  by  finiT 
circular  balustrade  of  marble  ;  from  '  fathers  of  the  Church, — St.  .^ugtBtla, 
thia  4re  suspended  113  lamps,  which  ,and  St.  Ambrose  of  the  Latin,  and  St. 
■re  coiutanlly  burning  night  and  day.  Chrymsiom  and  St.  Alhatiasiut  of 
..1  iJouUeAigbl  of  steps  leads  down  to!  the  Greek  Church. 

•Me  sbn'ne.      The   firet  ohjccl  wbiclii      TVvb  Mcmwiu>l>,i ,. 

Krati*  ■tlention  is  (he  kneeling  ita- .  of  l^uise  of  mmnX  &aXe,  uc  i^inK  ubk 


the  early  ages  of  Christianity-,  wtwB. 

pied  from  the  heathen  modcli. 

The  TVi'Aiar,  said  to  be  de«it«t4 
fiom  the  dedgns  of  Michael  Aagela^ 

the  ftmons  chair  of  bronze,  called  Of 


Papal  States.'}  rte.  27. — rome. — Basilicas;  St,  Peter's.     389 


worthy  of  St.  Peter's  as  works  of  art 
Many  of  them  are  deformed  by  alle- 
gorical figures  in  the  worst  style  of 
the  school  of  Bernini,  and  are  entirely 
beneath  criticism.  The  altars  of  the 
chapels  in  both  of  the  side  aisles  are, 
with  few  exceptions,  decorated  with 
mosaic  copies  of  well-known  pictures. 
Some  of  the  subjects  might  have  been 
better  chosen,  but  as  a  whole  it  is 
difficult  to  imagine  a  series  of  mo- 
saics more  beautifully  executed.  We 
shall  notice  the  most  remarkable  of 
these,  and  the  principal  tombs,  in 
making  the  circuit  of  the  basilica. 
Beginning  from  the  tribune,  on  the 
right  of  St.  Peter's  chair,  is  the  mau- 
soleum of  Paul  III.  (Farnese),  by 
Guglielmo  deUa  Porta,  assisted,  it  is 
said,  by  the  advice  of  Michael  An- 
gelo.  The  statue  of  the  pope  is  of 
bronze:  the  two  allegorical  female 
figures,  representing  Prudence  and 
Justice,  are  of  marble.  The  Justice  is 
said  to  have  been  so  beautifully  mo- 
delled, that  circumstances  occurred  to 
render  drapery  necessary ;  the  present 
bronse  robes  were  therefore  added  by 
Bernini.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
tribune  is  the  monument  of  Urban 
VIII.  (Barberini).  The  statue  of 
the  pope  is  of  bronze ;  those  of  Jus- 
tice and  Charity  are  of  marble,  and 
are  classed  among  BerninVs  most  suc- 
cessful figures. — Proceeding  onwards 
towards  the  south  side  of  the  building 
by  the  right  transept,  the  first  mosaic 
we  meet  with  is  a  copy  from  Francesco 
Mancini's  St.  Peter  healing  the  lame. 
Opposite  to  it  is  the  tomb  of  Alex- 
ander VIII  ,  of  the  Ottoboni  family, 
by  Angdo  Roisi :  it  has  a  bronze 
statue  of  the  pope,  and  two  marble 
figures  of  lleligion  and  Prudence. 
Near  it  is  the  altar  of  St.  Leo,  con- 
taining the  immense  has* relief  by  Al" 
pardi,  representing  the  pope  threaten- 
ing Attila  with  the  vengeance  of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul  if  he  should  enter 
Rome :  it  was  long  considered  a  mas- 
terpiece of  art,  and  is  perhaps  the 
largest  bas-relief  ever  executed.  In 
front  of  it  is  the  tomb  of  Leo  X  H. 
(deJla  Gengt),  with  an   inscription 


written  by  himself.  Further  on  to- 
wards the  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Alex- 
ander VII.  (Chigi),  the  last  work  of 
Bernini.  The  pope  is  represented 
kneeling,  surrounded  by  four  allego- 
rical figures  of  Justice,  Prudence, 
Charity,  and  Virtue.  Opposite  this 
tomb  is  a  finely-coloured  oil  painting 
on  slate  by  Francesco  Fanni,  repre- 
senting the  Fall  of  Simon  Magus ;  it 
is  almost  the  only  oil  painting  in  the 
basilica.  In  the  Capella  Clementina, 
beyond  the  south  transept,  is  the 
tomb  of  Pius  VII.,  by  T/iorwaldsenf 
erected  at  the  cost  of  his  patriotic  and 
enlightened  minister.  Cardinal  Con* 
salvi.  The  pope  is  represented  in  a 
sitting  posture  between  the  figures  of 
Power  and  Wisdom;  but  the  tomb 
is  not  regarded  as  worthy  the  genius 
of  its  great  sculptor,  or  ^e  merits  of 
the  most  benevolent  and  virtuous 
pontiff  who  ever  wore  the  tiara.  At 
the  middle  altar  of  this  transept  is  a 
mosaic  copy  of  the  Crucifixion  of  St. 
Peter,  firom  the  celebrated  picture  of 
Guido.  The  mosaic  of  the  lucre* 
dulity  of  St  Thomas  at  the  adjoining 
altar  is  from  a  picture  by  Camuccinu 
Farther  on  is  the  mosaic  of  Ananias 
and  Sapphira,  from  Roncalli's  picture 
in  S.  Maria  degli  Angeli.  On  the 
side  of  the  great  pier  of  the  cupola  is 
the  mosaic  copy  of  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration. Under  the  arcade  oppo* 
site  this  altar  is  the  tomb  of  Leo  XI., 
of  the  Medici  family,  by  AIgardi,wiih 
a  bas-relief  representing  the  abjura- 
tion of  Henry  IV.  of  France.  Near 
it  is  that  of  Innocent  XI.  (Odescal- 
chi),  by  Monot,  a  French  artist,  with 
a  bas-relief  representing  the  Turks 
raising  the  siege  of  Vienna,  and  two 
marble  figures  of  Religion  and  Jus* 
tice.  The  Capella  del  Coro  near  this 
is  well  known  as  the  chapel  in  which 
divine  service  is  daily  celebrated.  It 
has  three  rows  of  stalls  and  two  fine 
organs;  the  walls  and  ceiling  are 
richly  decorated  with  gilding  and 
stucco  ornaments,  from  the  designs  of 
Giacomo  deUa  Porta.  The  mo^a 
altarpvecc  ot  \>^%  CoTvcK^'CtfiTv\&^c»y^ 


r 


I 
I 


-ROUTE  27.  —  BtttiE.  —  Basilicas;  Sl.Pelei's.  lSecl.*L 


Sta.  MarU  degli  Angeli.  Under  the 
uch  leading  (□  tbe  rollowintc  chapel 
»  the  toml)  of  InnQoent  VIII..  of  the 
Cibo  family  :  it  is  entirely  of  bronze, 
■nd  iaa  lery  griu»ful  work  of  Aulonia 
Pullnjwile.  OpposLle,  is  the  stucco 
monument  of  Gregory  XVI,.  whieh 
has  supplanted  Ihnt  of  Pius  VII  1. 1  the 
plnce  it  occupies  is  approptinled  ss  the 
(emporBrjresting-placeofthelaittpDi 
tiff;  vhoae  bod;  remains  hers  until  ill 
death  ofhin  <uece»ur.  An  dppropriste 
tomb  for  I'iusVIlL  \s  nawin  jirogn 
■I  ihe  eon  of  Ihe  csrdinaU  whom 
raised  to  the  Sncred  College  during 
his  brief  ponliiicBte.      Tlie  Chaptl  of 

«op7  of  the  I'resenUtian  of  tile  Virgio 
by  FrannescD  Humanelli,  now  id  Sta. 
Maria  dogli  Angeli.     Close  to  this 

sever  Ctil  id  interest  tlie  English  tra- 
veller. The  first  on  the  right  hand, 
la  tbe  tomb  of  Marin  Clementina 
Sobieski,  vife  of  the  Pretender  James 
III.,  called  here  Queen  uf  Great 
Britain,  France,  and  Ireland :  ihe 
died  ui  Rome  in  1745.  It  is  a  por- 
Ijhyry  sarcophagus  with  alabaster 
drapery  and  a  Genius  holding  a  me- 
dallion porlriiit  of  the  queen  in  mo- 
saic i  it  via  designed  by  Filippo  Ba- 
Tigioni,  and  exeentcd  by  PiftroBraca, 
at  the  eipeuBB  of  the  "  Fabbtiea"  of 
St.  Peter's,  Opposite  to  this,  is  Co- 
MMIa'i  celebrated  mH«me<it  of  thu 
SUhotIi.     It  is  a  simple  represents- 

guarded  by  genii :  the  elTecl  is  feeble, 
and  perhaps   unworthy   of  Canova's 


The  ; 


ipense 


defrayed  from  the 
privy  pursB  of  George  IV,  The  fol- 
lowing is  the  inscription  : 


"  Beneath  that  unrivalled  dome,' 
says  Lord  Mahon,  ■'  lie  mouldering 
Ihe  remains  of  what  wi 
and    gullanl    heart;    and    a    stately 

and  at  the  charge,  as  I  believe,  of  tbi 
house  of  Hanover,  has  unee  arisen  (c 
Tbi  an. 


CHil 


•    NiNT 


t    Tbirt 


>  Hit 


Englisbman  can 
scarcely  read  without  a  smile  oi  a 
sigh  1  OAen  at  the  present  day  does 
the  British  traveller  turn  ftom  the 
sunn;  crest  of  Ihe  Kncian,  oi 
carnival  throng  of  the  Corso,  to  gaze 
in  thoughtful  silence  on  that  mockery 
(rf  human  greatness,  and  thut  last  re 
cord  of  ruined  hopes  t  Tlie  lomb  be 
lure  him  is  of  a  race  justly  eipctled 

it  is  of  a  faith  wisely  reformed;  jet 


The 

ipel  of  the  Itaptistery,  the  last  on 
tbil  side  of  the  basilica,  conloina  lbs 
porphyry  sarcopbagus  whidi 
nted  the  lomb  of  Iho  emperor 

tismal  vase.  The  mosaic  of  the  Bap- 
tism of  Christ  ii  a  copy  from  Carlo 
Maratta ;  tbe  St.  Peter  baptiiing  the 
gaolers  in  the  Mamerlinc  prisons  is 
from  Passerii  and  the  Baptism  of  Iha. 
Centurion  ii  from  ■  picture  by  Pro- 
caccini.  — In  the  norlh  side  aisle, 
beginning  from  tbe  entrance  door,  the 
flrsl  chapel  is  colled  tbe  CapeOa  dOa 
Pia^,  from  Ihe  celebrated  Picli  by 
Michart  Aifgelo,  a  marble  group  re- 
presenting Ihe  Virgin  with  tbe  dead 
body  of  the  Saviour  on  her  knees, 
'the great  sculptor's  6rrt 
cieeuted  when  he  was 
only  in  his  twenty-fourth  year,  at  the 
expense  of  the  I'Veneh  ambassador. 
Cardinal  Jean  Viiliers,  abbot  of  St. 
Denis.  The  critics  of  Michael  An- 
gelo'sown  time  objected  to  theyoulb- 
tii\  afpeaiante  u(  Uie  Virgin,  and  to 
',  the  Sotv  Wm^  iBjiescuXsA.  q\&«  &axi 


p€^Hti Staies.2  RTE. 27. — home. — Basilicas;  StPeter^s.     391 


the  mother ;  but  he  justified  it  on  the 
ground  that  it  afforded  an  additional 
proof  of  the  pure  and  spotless  charac- 
ter of  the  Virgin.  The  group  is  not 
seen  to  advantage  in  its  present  posi- 
tion, and  indeed  seems  lost:  some 
portions  of  it  are  extremely  beautiful, 
and  it  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  it 
is  not  better  placed.  Michael  An- 
gelo  has  written  his  name  on  the 
girdle  of  the  Virgin ;  it  is  said  to  be 
the  only  work  on  which  he  has  in- 
-scribed  his  name.  In  the  celebrated 
letter  written  by  Francis  I.  to  Michael 
'-Angelo  in  1507i  in  which  the  king 
requests  him  to  send  some  of  his 
works  to  Paris  to  adorn  one  of  the 
royal  chapels,  this  Pieta  and  the  statue 
of  Christ  in  S.  Maria  sopra  Minerva 
are  particularly  mentioned.  The  king 
entreats  M.  Angelo  to  sell  to  the 
bearer  of  his  letter,  who  was  no  other 
than  the  painter  Primaticcio,  some 
works  of  the  same  kind,  "pour  Pamour 
de  moi,"  and  describes  these  produc- 
tions "comme  de  choses  que  Ton  m*a 
asseur^  estre  des  plus  exquiscs  ct  ex- 
cellentes  en  votre  art.**  On  each 
side  of  the  high  altar  are  two  small 
chapels :  the  one  on  the  right,  built 
from  the  designs  of  Bernini,  has  a 
crucifix  sculptured  by  Pietro  Caval- 
lini,  and  a  mosaic  by  Cristo/anif  re- 
presenting St.  Nicholas  of  Bari.  llie 
other  chapel,  called  the  CapeUa  deUa 
Colonna  Santa,  contains  a  column  said 
to  have  been  brought  from  the  Temple 
at  Jerusalem,  and  to  be  the  one  against 
which  the  Saviour  leaned  when  he 
disputed  with  the  doctors.  It  contains 
also  a  marble  Sarcophagus  formerly 
used  as  a  baptismal  font,  bearing  the 
name  of  Anicius  Probus,  prefect  of 
Rome  in  the  4th  century  of  our  era. 
It  has  five  compartments  with  bas- 
reliefs  representing  Christ  and  the 
apostles;  and  though  highly  interest- 
ing as  a  Christian  monument,  is  less 
remarkable  as  a  work  of  art  than  the 
sarcophagus  of  Junius  Bassus  in  the 
subterranean  chapel.  In  the  aisle, 
opposite  the  tomb  of  Innocent  XIII., 
is  the  monument  of  Christina,  queen 
4>f.  Sm'edea,  ifJiio  died  at    Rome  in 


1689.     It  was  erected  by  Innocent 
XII.,  from  the  designs  of  Carlo  Fonta^ 
na,  and  is  ornamented  with  a  bas-relief 
by  Teudotif  a  French  artist,  represent- 
ing the  queen*s  abjuration  of  Protes- 
tantism in  the  cathedral  of  Innspruck, 
in  1655.     The  mosaic  at  the  altar  of 
St.  Sebastian  is  a  copy  of  the  picture 
in  S.  Maria  d^li  Angeli,  represent- 
ing the  martyrdom  of  the  saint,  by 
Domenichino.      Near  it,  under   the 
archway,  are  two  tombs :  one  is  that 
of  Innocent  XII.  by  Filippo  VaUe,  in 
which  the  pope  is  represented  as  a 
sitting  figure,  supported  by  Charity 
and  Justice :  the  other  is  the  tomb  of 
the  Countess   Matilda,  by  Bernini; 
she  died  in  1115,  and  was  buried  in 
the  Benedictine  monastery  near  Man- 
tua, but  Urban  VIII.  removed  the 
body  to   St.  Peter's  in   16S5.      The 
bas-relief  on  the  front  of  the  sarco- 
phagus represents  Gregory  VII.  giv- 
ing absolution  to  the  Emperor  Henry 
IV.,  in  the  presence  of  the  countess. 
The    Chapel  of  the   SS,    Sacramento 
contains,  among  other  rich  ornaments, 
a  beautiful  tabernacle  of  lapis  lazuli 
and  bronze  gilt  in  the  form  of  Bra- 
mante*8  circular  temple  of  S.  Pietro 
in  Montorio.     The  altarpiece  of  the 
Trinity  is  a  fresco  by  Pietro  da  Cor- 
tona,  who  designed  the  stucco  bas- 
reliefs  and  mosaics  of  the  roof  and 
cupola.       This   chapel   contains   the 
tomb  of  Sixtus  IV.  (della   Rovere) 
in  bronze,  ornamented  with  bas-re- 
liefs  by    Antmio   PoUaJuolo.     Julius 
II.,  of  the  same  family,  is  buried  by 
the  side  of  this  monument ;  the  wish 
of  the  ambitious  pontiff*  to  be  interred 
in  the  tomb  constructed  for  him  by 
Michael  Angelo  in  S.  Pietro  in  Vin- 
coli     having    never    been    fulfilled. 
Under  the  adjoining  arcade,  on  the 
right  hand,  is  the  tomb  of  Gregory 
XI II.,  of  the  Buoncompagni  family, 
the  well-known  reformer  of  the  ca- 
lendar :  it  is  by  CamiUo  Rusconi,  and 
is  a  very  inferior  work ;  the  statue  of 
the  pope  is  supported  by   Religion 
and  Power.     The  bas-relief  in  front 
represents  the  corc^clvotti  ^  >^^  ^<«.« 
lendar.     O^^^cmaXa  Na  ^^  V-wsSa  kR. 


892        itouTi!  97.  —  roMS,  —  BagiUcas;  Si(.  i*fcr**,  [Sect.  t. 

Gregory  XIV.  (SIVonJati),  all  oF  rcmarliable.  The  Ibns  b(  the  anplea 
vhich  U  Blucco  eicepl  llie  statues  of,  have  reeelvud  unqualified  ttdmiralioni 
Faith  BUit  Justice.  The  mosaic  on  the  one  sleeping  ranks  among  (he 
the  ollir  of  ihc  great  pier  is  ■  copy  of' finest  eHbru  of  ihe  modern  chisel. 
Daowniehino's  Communion  of  SL  |  The  mosaic  beyond  it  is  aeopj  of  Ihe 
Jerome.  The  ChaprI  n/ lie  Madunna,  8t.  Michael  by  Guido.  The  mosBiD 
Ibunded  by  Gregory  XIII.,  was  de- '  of  S.  PetronilK  copied  from  Guer- 
■igned  by  Michael  Angelo,  and  built  cino,  Is  considered  the  finest  worlc  of 
by  GUcomo  delta  Porto.  The  cupola  [  [his  class  in  SL  Peter's.  The  tomb 
is  covered  with  mwaics  designed  by  '  of  Clement  X.,  of  the  Alticrl  family, 
GiroUmo  Miiiiano.  which  have  been  near  it,  is  by  Aoiii ;  the  statue  of  the 
highly  praised.      In  litis  chapel  St.   pope  is  by  Ermlti  Fe 


Gregory  Nazianaeo  is  buried.  Ng 
it  U  the  tomb  of  the  illustrious  Bene- 
dict XIV.  (I-tmbertini),  by  Pittro 
Sraeei  ;  it  has  h  statue  of  the  pope, 
with  lira  flgiiies  of  Science  and  Cha- 


The  Grottt  Faticaie,  the  subter- 
ranean chapel.  No  woman  is  allowed 
a  enter  this  part  of  the  building  with- 
)ut  pormissioD  fium  a  cardinal,  ex- 
cept on  Whitsuodny,  when  men  are 
niy.  inia  learned  pontilT,  the  pre-  |  excluded.  Iliis  subterranean  cliapcl 
eeplor  of  Metastasio,  was  worthy  of  is  Ibat  portion  of  the  old  basilica 
ft  monument  by  the  Gist  artists  in  '  wiiioh  stood  over  the  tombs  of  the 
Italy.  —  In  the  transept  are  some  early  martyrs ;  and  so  carefullyhas  it 
mosaics  and  statues  which  may  be  been  preserved  in  all  the  alteratioDB 
briefly  noticed:  the  Martyrdom  of.  and  buildings  of  the  present  edifice, 
SS.  Froeeso  and  MBTtioian,  a  mosaic  that  the  origiiul  floor  has  never  been 
copy  from  Valentin;  the  Martyrdom  touched.  The  circular  corridor  of 
of  St  Erasmus,  from  Poussin;  St.  the  Grolte  contains  the  ebapel  of  the 
Wenceslaus,  king  ttf  Buhemia,  from  Confession,  immediately  under  the 
Carosellii  the  status's  of  S.  Jerome,  high  altar  uf  Ihe  basilica  above.  It 
by  Pittro  Brant;  S.  Cajetano,  by  is  ornamented  with  broniebas-relieft. 
Carh  ManaMii  S.  Giuseppe  Cahi-  illustrating  the  history  of  St.  Peter 
sanxto,  by  %'iuuzii  and  S.  Bruno,  and  St.  Paul,  and  the  wails  are  lined 
by  Sletdtz.  The  mosaic  of  llie  Navi-  with  rich  marbles  and  other  deoorfc 
eella,  representing  the  Saviour  coming  tiotis.  The  Tomb  of  St.  JVfer  Is  un* 
to  save  St.  Peter  whea  Ihe  vessel  is    mediately  below  the  altar.      Several 

^  (inking,  is  from  a  picture  by  Idio- '  personages  of  interest  or  eminence 
iianco,  Opposite  to  this  altar  is  the  '  are  interred  here.  Among  them  aro 
Jnagnilioent  Tomb  of  Clement  XIII.  j  Adrian  IV.  (Nicholas  Breakspeare), 
(Benonico),  by  Canoca,  one  of  the  the  only  English  pope  who  ever  aat 
few  sprcimens  of  really  fine  sculpture  |  in  the  chair  of  St.  Peter's;  be  died  at 
in  St.  Peter's.  This  was  the  lirat  Anagni  in  115%;  Boui&ee  VIII.; 
work  which  established  Canova's  fame,  Nicholas  v.;  UrbsnVI.;  Pius  II.; 
and  is  still  considered  by  many  as  his  |  Charlotte,  queen  uf  Jerusalem  atid 
masterpiece;  it  was  finished  in  his  |  Cyprus;  the  Emperor  Otho  II. ;  and 
thirty-eighth  year,  aflcr  ^ght  years'  ihe  last  representatives  of  the  royal 
labour.  The  pope,  a  fine  expressive  family  of  Stuart,  nim  are  styled  in 
figure,  is  represented  prayingi  onone  the  inscription,  James  III.,  Charles 
tide  is  the  genius  of  Death  sitting  III.,  and  Henry  IX.,  kings  of  Eng- 
with  his  torch  reversed,  Ihe  most  per.  ,  land.  The  monument  of  Boniface 
ftct  statue  in  St.  Peter's;  on  the ,  VIILisaltrihutcdby  Vasaiito^rwi^ 
other  is  the  figure  of  Religion  hold-  r/i  Lapo.  One  of  the  most  remark- 
ing tho  crossi  ihe  golden  rays  en-  able  olqects  in  this  subterranean  ohs- 
Bircling  her  head  are  objectionable ,  pel  is  the  sarcnphagus  of  Junius 
additions  to  the  figure,  and  do  not.  Bassos,  ^lefsol  «f  Uomo,  who  died 
relieve  the  heaviness  for  Tliich  it  'w\*.d.  35S.     I'.isa.'^W'j  ^oe  <;i.a™ijV% 


papal  Siaies.'i  rte.  27.— Rome. — Basilicas;  StFeier^s,      393 


x>f  the  sculpture  of  the  period,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  Christian 
monuments  in  existence.  It  is  of 
Parian  marble,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been  executed  at  Constantinople. 
Its  front  presents  ten  bas-reliefs, 
arranged  in  two  rows  of  five  each. 
They  are  separated  by  columns,  all  of 
which  are  spiral  except  those  of  the 
two  central  compartments.  The  sulv 
jects  of  the  has- reliefs  are  taken  from 
the  Old  and  New  Testaments ;  some 
of  them  are  rather  obscure,  but  those 
representing  Adam  and  Eve  after  the 
£ill,  Daniel  in  the  lion*s  den,  and 
Christ  before  Pilate,  may  easily  be 
recognised. 

The  Sacristy,  built  by  Pius  VI. 
froiTi  the  designs  of  Carlo  M archionni 
(1775),  consists  of  three  noble  halls, 
decorated  with  a  richness  of  orna- 
ment scarcely  inferior  to  that  of  St. 
Peter's.  The  eight  fluted  pillars  of 
marmo  bigio  are  from  Hadrian*s  villa. 
Among  its  paintings  may  be  noticed 
the  Madonna  and  Child  with  St.  John, 
by  Gitdio  Romano,  the  remains  of  a 
ciborium  painted  by  Giotto,  some 
frescoes  by  Mdozzo  da  Forli,  and  the 
Saviour  giving  the  keys  to  St.  Peter, 
by  Muziano.  The  marble  statue  of 
Pius  VI.  is  by  Agostino  Penna,  the 

Roman  sculptor Among  the  Ar^ 

ehivet  is  a  MS.  life  of  St.  George, 
with  miniatures  by  Giotto,  the  famous 
parchment  codex  of  the  Philippics 
of  Cicero,  a  Terence,  and  a  Persius 
of  very  early  date.  Among  the  little 
that  the  revolutionary  troubles  of 
1849  have  left  of  the  church  plate,  are 
some  crucifixes  and  candlesticks  from 
the  designs  of  Michael  Angeio  and 
Benvenwto  Celiini.  The  curious  "  I>aU 
matica,**  formerly  worn  by  the  em- 
perors, and  dating  from  the  time  of 
Leo  II I. f  is  also  preserved  here. 

Aacent  of  the  Dome.  —  By  a  recent 
regulation  no  person  is  allowed  to 
ascend  without  an  order  from  the 
director  of  the  Fabbrica  of  St.  Peter's, 
which  is  granted  only  on  application 
from  the  consul.  l*here  is  no  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  this  permission,  but 
one  oi  the  patty  i§  required  to  nga 


it,  rendering  himself  responsible  for 
,  the  conduct  of  all  his  party,  and  for 
any  accident  that  may  befall  them. 
The  ascent  to  the  summit  is  the  only 
means  by  which  any  idea  can  be 
formed  of  the  immensity  of  St.  Pe- 
ter's. It  presents  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  spectacles  in  the  world. 
A  broad  paved  spiral  staircase  a  coir- 
doni  leads  us  to  the  roof  by  so  gentle 
an  ascent  that  horses  might  traverse 
it  with  their  loads.  On  the  walls  of 
this  staircase  are  tablets  recording  the 
names  of  members  of  the  reigning 
houses  of  Europe,  who  have  accom- 
plished the  ascent :  among  the  number 
are  the  dowager  queens  of  Spain,  Sar<* 
dinia,  and  the  Netherlands.  The 
roof  seems  like  a  little  village  of 
workmen ;  the  two  octagonal  cupolas 
which  rise  above  it  to  the  height  of 
1 47  feet,  and  the  smaller  ones  which 
cover  the  side  chapels,  and  arc  not 
seen  at  all  from  below,  are  here  found 
to  be  of  great  size.  The  shops  of  the 
workmen,  who  are  constantly  em- 
ployed in  the  repairs  of  the  edificei 
and  a  fountain  of  water  which  is  al- 
ways flowing,  increase  the  illusion  of 
the  scene;  and  as  we  traverse  the 
enormous  pavement,  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  believe  that  we  are  walk- 
ing on  the  summit  of  a  building. 
During  the  siege  of  Rome  in  1849> 
considerable  damage  was  done  to  the 
roof  of  the  church  and  the  stone- work 
of  the  dome  by  the  French  balls.  In 
about  a  dozen  places  large  holes  were 
knocked  in  the  exterior  roof  of  the 
church,  and  pieces  of  considerable  size 
were  chipped  off  the  masonry  of  the 
dome.  Not  less  than  19  balls  were 
picked  up  about  the  edifice  by  the  guar- 
dians of  the  &bric ;  and  the  roof,  the 
dome,  and  the  walls  of  the  church  were 
hit  in  80  different  places.  A  long 
series  of  passages  and  staircases  carries 
us  from  the  roof  to  the  different  stages 
of  the  dome,  winding  between  its 
double  walls,  and  opening  on  the  in- 
ternal galleries,  from  which  the  stran- 
ger may  look  down  on  the  altar  below. 
It  ia  fTom  \hvi  «^\.  ^%X  '^^  V«xtw\a 

\  5 


-BocTE  27.  —  ROMS —  SaiiSea*!  St.  I^tet*t.  ^Sert.  f.- 


propoftions  of  Ihe  building.  Ttie 
()e<i|)]i!  moving  on  ibu  pavement 
•orwly  look  like  homdn  beings 
■nd  tl>e  monies  nf  the  dome,  irhich 
(Mtncd  fnim  belair  to  be  niinule  and 
delieate  wotlu,  tie  found  lo  br  coane- 
^J  CKcculcd  in  the  holy  tijle  wliich 

u  fOUld  produce  eftectai  such  s  distance. 

f        We   can    Ksrccly    wander. 


rhile 


I  pmeot  titti 
Und«  of  n 


thii  elvTBtiun,  that  S 
been  enlcilaiaed  for  tl 
dome,  and  ihat  it  iias 
alrengttieni'd  with  ban 
■ppein  Irinn  the  npl 
ivua  aicbitecti  that  Ih 
.  nUnurg  aettleTnent  of  the  drum  im 
I  Ac  pendantive*!  and  tlie  dome  at  the 
'is  encircled  with  eight 
Gte  in  the  drum,  one 
tkere  the  arch  begins  to 
-  tpring,  and  two  on  the  dome.  These 
precaiiticins  aeu'm  to  have  removed  all 
cause  for  alarm;  and  it  is  generallj. 
admitted  tiiaE  the  building  is  per- 
fectly secure,  and  that  no  grounds 
vhalever  (or  apprehenaiaQ  now  eiiat. 
The  cimt  of  (he  repairs  is  enormous ; 
Ihe  annual  eipemes  of  the  fabric,  in- 
cluding Ihe  (alsties  of  the  officiali,  is 
laid  lo  amount  to  36,000  scudi,  equal 
-oBOOOL  of  English 


The  mminaiimi  of  St  Peter's 
during  the  Holy  Week  arc  too  well 
knovQ  to  reijuire  a  detailed  descrip- 
tion. To  those  who  have  witnessed 
them  the  irapresiion  produced  by 
their  miKnificent  display  is  tuo  ilrong 
to  be  obliterated ;  and  those  for  whom 
the  spectacle  is  yet  in  store  will  find 
'     iiiption  fails  for  short  of 


■  lity. 


£very 


and  frieic,  the  band)  of  the  dome,  and 
all  the  details  of  the  building  to  the 
summit  of  the  cross,  are  lit  up  with 
lines  of  lamps,  and  its  gigantic  archi- 
tecture standi  out  against  the  dark 
■ky  in  a  complete  Hrnument  uf  fire- 
The  illuminations  are  repeated  at  tha 
Festival  of  St.  Peter's  on  two  suc- 
cessive evenings,  and  are  said  to  coat 
600  crowns.  382  men  are  employed 
lo  light  the  lamps;  andttben  we  con- 


Thest 


It  lead 


directly  to  the  tup  of  the 
fhim  which  another  flight  takes  u 
1  to  the  bsse  of  Ihe  ball,  where 
fafling,  invisible  (him  hclow,  allow 
^  to  enjoy  the  magnificence  of  th 
prospect.  The  iall  of  bronie  gilt  i 
8  ket  in  diameter,  and  large  enoug! 
lo   bold    16  persons.     A   small  iro: 


the  ball  and  li 

is  16  feet  in  height.     T>> 

the  balcony  below 

the  f 


ball  ii 


.      The 
desolsto 


whole  of  Rome  with   hci 

Campagna  is  spread  out  like  a  map 

In  the    Ibrejcround,  lioimded   on   the 

tAe  side  by  the  chain  of  Apennines, 

^  nnd  on    the  other  by   the    Mediter- 

raoaio.      There  is  scarcely  any  pro- 

niiiient  object  of  interest  in  the  cily 

irhi'cli  waf  not  easily  be  diitinguilhed, 


irprising  that  the  number 
of  accidents  is  tery  small.  There  are 
two  illuminations  on  each  evening^: 
the  first,  called  the  lilotr  illumina- 
tiun,  bi^ins  at  dusk,  and  conaiata  of 
59O0    lanterns  I    the    second,    called 

9.  when  at  tile  first  stroke  of  the 
clock,  goo  lamps  are  lighted  so  in- 
stantaneously that  it  seems  the  work' 
of  enchantment.  The  whole  procesa 
is  generally  completed  betbre  th« 
clock  has  struck  the  hour,  or  in  about 
eight  seconds;  the  entire  buil^og  is 
then  lit  up  by  no  less  than  6600 
lamps.  The  lanlerns  used  for  tbe 
silver  illumination  are  of  while  paper, 
those  for  the  golden  are  iron  plates 
filled  vrith  blazing  tar  and  turpentine, 
The  principal  Ctrtmmia  and  reli- 
gious services  in  St.  Peter's  and  the 
Sisiinc  Chapel  are  the  following-.— 
January  1st.  Grand  mass  at  10  A.M., 
in  the  Sisllue  chapel,  by  the  pope  in 
person,  unless  the  pope  is  in  residence 
on  Honte  Cavallo,  when  it  is  cele- 
brated in  the  private  chapel  of  Ihat 
\pa\ai;e.     This  applies  to  all  the  cere- 


JPapal  Sia^.2  ^'rz.2^.^nof4iR.^Basiiicas;  Si.  Peter's.     395 


Christmasi  and  at  the  festival  of  St. 
Peter.    5th.  Vespers  in  the  Sistine,  at 
S   r.  X.     6th.  The   Epiphany ;    high 
mass  in  the  Sistine,  at  10  a.m.    Fehru- 
ary  2d.     Purification   of  the   Virgin; 
high  mass  by  the  pope  in  person,  and 
the  ceremony  of  blessing  the  candles. 
On  Ash  Wednetday,  high  mass,  and 
the  sprinkling  of  ashes  on  the  heads 
of  the  cardinals.     March  and  April. 
—  Holy  Week,    Palm    Sunday ;    high 
mass  in  St.  Peter *s,  about  9  a.m.,  by 
the  pope  in  person ;  the  po|>e  conse- 
crates    and     distributes     the    palm 
branches.     Wednesday   in  Holy    Week 
at  4  P.M.  the  first  miserere  of  Allegri 
is  chanted  in  the  Sistine  chapel  and 
in  St.  Peter's.     To  secure  seats  in  the 
Sistine   chapel,   where   the   chanting 
takes   place   in  the  presence   of  the 
pope,  it  is  necessary  to  go  at  2  o'clock, 
and   ladies    must   be   provided   with 
tickets,   as  mentioned   hereafter.     A 
triangle  of  candles  is  prepared  pre- 
vious to  the  service,  and  one  candle  is 
extinguished  at  the  conclusion  of  dif- 
ferent psalms,  till  one  alone  is  left. 
Tliis  is  removed  during  the  singing 
of  the  miserere  behind  the  altar,  and  ' 
on    its  conclusion    is  again  brought 
out,   when  a  general  knocking  with 
a  stick  takes  place, — the  whole  signi- 
ficant of  the  light  on  earth  during  our 
Saviour's  presence,  his  death  and  de-  \ 
scent  into  the  tomb,  and  his  resurrec- 
tion, with  the  circumstances  which  at-  i 
tended  it.     In  the  evening,  after  the  | 
services  at  the  Vatican  are  finished, 
the  Trinitd,  de*  Pellegrini  may  be  vi- 
sited, to  see  the  feet  of  the  pilgrims 
who  have  journeyed  to  Rome  for  the 
holy  week,  washed  by  the  great  dig- 
nitaries and  nobles,  who  also  attend 
on  them,  like  servants,  at  their  meal, 
and  afterwards  assist  them  to  prepare 
for   rest.       The    different   sexes   are 
placed  in  separate  departments  of  the 
hospital,  and  the   persons   regularly 
engaged  for  those  charitable  offices, 
are  enrolled  in  confraternities,  num- 
bering many  of  the  first  persons  in 
the  aristocracy  of  Rome.     His  Holi- 
iie«s  is  enrolled  in  the  association,  as 
Jin  27  CMrduudM  now  living.     Several 


kings  have  been  so  likewise ;  and,  up 
to  the  year  1847,  the  female  confrater- 
nity was  presided  over  by  the  Prin- 
cess Rospigliosi.     To  be  entitled  to 
admission,   the   pilgrims   must   have 
come  from  a  distance  of  more  than  60 
I  miles,  and  bring  certificates  from  their 
i  bishop  or  his  vicar,  attesting  that  they 
have  repaired  to  Rome  for  the  purpose 
I  of  visiting  the  holy  places :  these  are 
examined  by  persons  called  ricevitori, 
for  security    against  deception.      At 
Easter,  Italian  pilgrims  are  entertained 
for  S  days,  UUramontanes  for  4,  Por- 
tuguese for  7;  at  other  times  of  the  year, 
Italians  for  1  day,  UUramontanes  for  2, 
Portuguese  for  5 ;  the  latter  receive 
£ach,  on  their  departure,  a  Roman  se- 
quin, and  Bohemians  a  scudo.      This 
ceremony  is  repeated  at  the  Trinita 
de*  Pellegrini  every  evening  during  the 
week.    Thursday,  —  High  mass  at  the 
Sistine  chapel  at  9  a.  m.,  after  which 
there  is  a  procession  from  the  Sistine 
to  the  Pauline  chapel,  where  the  pope 
deposits  the  holy  elements.      About 
12,  the  pope  pronounces  his  benedic- 
tion from  the  balcony  of  St.  Peter's, 
and   then    descends    into  the   south 
transept,  where  he  washes  the  feet  of 
13  aged  priests,  and  afterwards  pro- 
ceeds to  the  gallery  over  the  entrance 
portico  of  the  basilica,  where  he  waits 
on  them  at  table.     Previous  to  the 
benediction  one  of  the  cardinals   in 
former  times  used  to  curse  all  Jews, 
Turks,  and  heretics,  by  bell,  book, 
and  candle,  but  it  is  not  done  now.  At 
4  or  ^  past  4  p.m.  the  second  miserere 
is  chanted  in  the  Sistine  chapel,  and 
in  St.  Peter's.    After  the  miserere  the 
exposition  of  the  relics  (the  true  cross, 
the  lance,  and  the    "Volto   Santo**) 
takes  place.      The  cardinal  peniten- 
tiary sits  in  the  north  transept  of  St. 
Peter's  to  give  absolution  for  mortal 
sins  which  cannot  otherwise  be  ab- 
solved,    llie  high  altar  in  St.  Peter's 
is  washed.     Tlie  Pauline  chapel  and 
the  different  *'  sepulchres,**  more  par- 
ticularly those  in  the  Spanish  and  Por- 
tuguese churches,  and  S.  Ignazio,  are 
illuminated.      Kmotv^  >X3a  iv^\3k  ^ 
this  e^euVu^  mn'^  \m  xnuoiCvyDA^  ^Oda 


nouiE^Y.  — HOME.  — SaWffcB*;  St.  POsi'i.  tSectt 


1  Ihe   wighbourhood  of 
n    wid   tlie    Viaxa    Nav 


\  Karceljf  be   •ddeii,  is   equally    sym- 
bolical.     Tlie  lower  eircUl  leprBsents 
of  ihecrowooftcmporaldomitiion, while 


represents  the  Bpicitual  i 
tlie  second  circlet  shova  the  union  of 
the  spiriTual  md  tempond  authority^ 
and  the  third  shows  Ihe  union  of  the 
]K»iti6cBl,  imperial,  and  royal  power. 
The  seven  candeUbrn  carried  before 
the  pope  by  Acolytes,  represent  tha 
sevuu  ecclesiiuticiil  n'ani,  or  dlvUioiu 
if  the  city  1  mystically  they  bear  rem 


Fulhe 

d«>iM,    and    brilliinlly    illuminated. 

a«Bd  Friilay. — The  adoration  of  the 

elOH  in  the  SUtine  chapel  at  9  A.  h.  i 

a  procesion  to  the   t^iuline  chapel, 

lUlowod  by  high  mass  in  the  Sistine 

by  the  pupa  in  person.     The  figure 

of  uur  Saviour,  which  is  covered  up 

during  Lent,  is  this  day   unooveted. 

The  pope  enters  St.  Peler'a  in  state,   „, 

amd  pmyt  bcfbrc  the  Aposlle's  tomb,    fe 

The  cardinal  penitentiary  givesabsolu-  .the  vision  of  the  Son  of  God  appeared 

lionasonTliur«day.   The  last  wtHrere   to  the  Evangelist,  as  deseribad  in  Ihe 

is  chanted  at  5  r.  H.  in  the  Sistine  Apocalypse;  and  are  also  lypieal  of 
elmpel.  and  in  St.  Teier's.  *  On  Good  ,he  seven  gifts  of  the  spirit. 
Fiitlay,  1S19,  Ihe  old  practice  of  su)- 1  On  entering  St.  Feler's,  when  the 
pending  under  the  dome  a  colossal .  popearriies  opposiletbechipel  of  tha 
illuminated  cross  was  resumed  after  i  SS.  Sacramento,  the  procession  stops; 
33  yean'  discontinuance,  having  Iwcn  i  the  pope  descends  from  the  throne 
■uppressedby  Pnpe  Leo  XII.  in  1820,  and  adores  Ihe  host,  which  is  exposed 
on  the  pretext  of  English  and  forei^  on  the  illamlnatedallarofthsl  chapel, 
visitors  behaving  disrespcelfully  m  The  eortffe  then  passes  on  to  the 
the  church.  Sudirdap.  —  Ordination  throne  at  the  epistle-side  (rf  the  tri- 
al St-  John  Lateran,  and  public  bup-  bune,  where  the  homage  is  perfbrmedi 
tiim  in  the  baptistery  of  Constantine  ,  md  after  reading  to  himself  the  pray. 
Bt  }  past  7  A.M.  At  the  same  hour,  urs  preparatory  to  saying  mass,  whilst 
or  even   earlier,  blessing  of  candles, '  the  office  of  'Herce  is  sung,  his  Holi. 

''6t«,  &a  ,  in  the  Sistine  ctiaptl.     High    n^ss  is  vested  for  the  celebration.      A. 

K  ijuss  in  the  Ksline  at  9  a.m.      Salter  procession  is  then  formed  towards  the 

I'&Uldiiy,  the  grandest  festival  of  the   ihrone  at  the  end  of  the  tribune,  which, 

'  ^ear.      Day-break    is  ushered  in  by    suddi^nly  turning  to  the  right,  laces 

the  cannon  of  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo,  |  the  high  allar  and  approaches  it.      It 

■nd  by  high  ma«  at  S.  Maria  della  consists  of  the   Ihurifer,  crossbeam, 

ScsU.     At  9  A.  H.  high 

Peter's  by  the  pope  in  person. 


pope  enLera  tl 


icident   of  wliich 


ig.  HuHdIij 

u  symbolical  of  his  elevation  as  Ihe 
■vicar  of  Christ  Before  him  are  car- 
ried two  fans  of  ostrich  fealhen,  in 
which  the  eyes  of  pcacoelc's  fiathers 
are  set,  as  a  symbol  both  that  vigi- 
lance is  required  of  the  pontiff,  and 
also  thai  the  eyes  of  all  men  are  fined 
upon  him.     Tlie  triple  crown,  it  need 


Creek  and   Latin 
deacons,  cardinal  bish 
dinaldeaconSithepopt 


in  Uimiua,    Anpsrumenio  BorgLji* 
pea  la  ISie  fiublic  l>om  1  He  S,  \ 


I  two  private 

Ehamberlains,  ana  an  auditor  of  the 
rota  bearing  his  mitre,  the  patriareha 
and  other  prelates  assistant  at  the 
throne.  Near  the  altar  it  is  met  by 
the  three  junior  cardinals,  who  sucoeg- 
aivcly  do  reverence  to  his  Holiness  and 
embrace  him  with  a  kiss  on  Ihe  cheek 
and  breast,  mystically  eihibiling  Ihe 
homage  paid  by  the  three  Magi  '  '' 
Saviour.  The  epistle  and  goap 
sung  first  in  Latin,  then  in  Creek,  lo 

and  Western  church,  but  the  prim 
of  the  Latin.  Towards  the  com 
itv  iA  tW  cveed  ^\\ 


ttlaiv.^  bt^OM  tte.  Bsa'iiiiii 


aW. 


p€falSiaies,2  RTE.  27.— Rome. — JBasilicass  StPeter^s,    397 


■thest  throne)   the  sacred  vessels  are 
washed  at  what  are   called  the  cre- 
dence tables,  for  the  utensils  of  the 
mass ;  the  keeper  of  the  cellar  drinks 
of  the  wine  and  water  for  the  ablu- 
tions, which  are  then  administered  to 
the  cardinal  deacon.     When  the  pope 
has  returned  to  the  altar,  the  sacristan 
eats  in   his  presence   two   particles, 
pointed  out  by  the  deacon,  from  the 
three  wafers,  and  also  drinks  of  the 
wine   and    water,   prepared    for  the 
mass,  lliis  precaution  against  poison, 
though  a  mere  form,  is  of  almost  im- 
memorial  usage   at  the   papal   high 
mass.     At  the  offertory  is  sung  the 
Motette  Chriitus  resurgens  with   the 
beautiful  music  of  Felice  Ancrio,  con- 
sidered one  of  the  finest   concerted 
pieces  of  the  papal  choir.    This  is  fol- 
lowed by  the  singing  of  the  Sequence, 
FictinuePaschalif  generally  to  the  music 


place  at  the  high  altar,  to  typify,  it  ia 
said,  the  sufferings  of  the  Redeemer 
in  sight  of  the  multitude ;  the  altar 
represents  the  table  where  the  eucha- 
rist  was  instituted,  and  the    throne 
the  mount  where  the  sacrifice   was 
offered.     A   second  elevation  of  the 
host  and  the  chalice  is  made,  after  the 
pontiff*  has  left  the  altar,  by  the  as- 
sistant cardinals,  and  each  is  carried 
solemnly  to  the  throne  for  the  com- 
munion of  his  Holiness,  who  drinks 
from   the   chalice  through  a   golden 
tube,  a  vestige  of  the  ancient  practice  at 
the  time  when  communion  under  both 
kinds  was  general.     The  deacon  and 
subdeacon  then  receive  from  his  hands 
the  remainder  of  the  consecrated  ele- 
ments.     A  eiborium  containing  other 
consecrated  particles,  is  brought  with 
the    same   solemnity   to  the  throne, 
and  out  of  this  the  holy  father  gives 
of  Simonelli.     The  music  and  poetry  |  communion,     in    one    kind,    to   the 
of  the  church  for  Easter  day  is  the  cardinal,  deacons,    and    noble    laity 
most  beautiful  in  the  whole  range  of  who   assist  at   the  cappella.      After 
sacred   music.      This   Sequence    es-  the  conclusion  of  mass  the   pontiff^, 
pecially  is  probably  one  of  the  ear- 1  assuming  the  triregno,  reseats  himself 
liest  specimens  ofthe  ecclesiastic  hymn   in   the   portable    throne,   where  the 
now   extant,   its    authorship    having  cardinal  archpriest  of  St.  Pq^er*s  pre* 
never  been  ascertained  :  like  the  mag-  j  sents  him  with  a  purse  of  white  velvet 
nificent  anthem  for  Christmas,  Quern  j  containing  the  usual  off*ering  made  to 
vidistis  PastoreSf  it    partakes    of  the   bim  for  singing  mass  in  that  basilica 
dramatic,    introducing,   as  interlocu •  j^ro     Missa    bene    cantata.        At     12 
tors,    Mary,   who   returns   from   the  o*clock  the  pope  pronounces  his  bene- 
sepulchre,    and     the    disciples,  who  ;  diction  from  the  balcony  of  St.  Peter*s, 
question  her  what  she  has  seen.     It  in  the  same  form  as  on  Holy  Thurs* 
concludes  with  a  kind  of  chorus,  which  |  day.     The  following  are  the  words  of 
swells  into  a  noble  strain, after  a  con-   the  benediction,  the  Amen  being  four 
fession  of  faith  in  the  resurrection.         times  chanted,   and   breaking   finely 
Before  the  preface  two  junior  car-  upon  the  silence  in  which,  unless  one 
dinal  deacons   take  their  station  be-   is  very  near,  the  whole  seems  to  pass : 
side  the  altar,  facing  each  other,  to  |      **  May  the  holy  apostles  Peter  and 
represent  the  two  angels  who  stood  at  |  Paul,  in  whose  power  and  authority 
the  sepulchre.     Then  is  sung,  as  pre-  we  confide,  intercede  for  us  with  the 
paratory  to  the  consecration,  the  form   Lord.   Amen,     llirough  the  prayers 
which   offers  up   the  praises  of  the '  and  merits  of  the  blessed  Mary,  ever 
church   with   those   of  angels,    arch- 1  Virgin,  of  the   blessed  Michael  the 
angels,  thrones,  and  dominations;  and.  Arcliangel,  of  the  blessed  John  the 
ifWr  the  choir  has  continued  it  in  the   Baptist,  of  the  holy   apostles   Peter 
SanettUt  a  dead  silence  follows,  to  be  |  and   Paul,  and  all    Saints,   may    the 
faitemipted  by  that  burst  of  trumpets  ^  Omnipotent  God   have   mercy  upon 
at  the  consummation  of  the  sacrifice,  you,  may  all  ^our  sins  be  remitted^ 
whoM  eflfect  can  never  be  described. '  aiid  Jeftu«  C\\tv&\.  \««l<\  ^q>\  \^  vx.«t^w<^ 
Xbfi  eomtnuuioa  oi  the  pope  takes  WSe.   Ameiu    VcAvX^tiCft^  i^MK^:<9!o«ti 


■BOD^rS^.'^SeME.  —  PiMiVicoj;  St.  Piter's.  t^Sect.'T 


maj  tliv  Onmipotetit  ftud  tnercirul 
Ood  ifTurd  you.  Amen.  AnJ  mBV 
the  btcntiig  of  Ihc  OninipDient  God, 
"~  '\ta.  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost,  detccnd 


At  Ihe  last  cUute,  ei  brntdlclia 
pe  rise  and  sign 
and  on  each  lide,  i 


fronl 


■vcr  the  people, 
he  pronouneei  the  holy  names ;  at 
deiTtiidal  he  sUetches  out  hU  aran  lo 
heaven,  and  then  fulda  them  over  Ills 
breui.  Then  the  cardinal  deacon 
read*  in  I.aiin  and  luliati  (afternaTds , 
throwing  Ihe  dooumenls  among  tile 
people)  Ihe  bull  of  the  plenary  indul- 
gence conceded  to  all  who  have  at- 
tended Ihe  eacmments  in  the  spirit  of 


w1iichtliepape,the  clergy,  andlhecourt 

Ukepnrt.    June  28  Lh The  Eat  of  the 

Fettical  of  Sl  Pclur  and  St,  I^td;  at 
6  r.  ».,  veapetB  in  St.  Peter'i  in  the 
presence  of  tlie  pope ;  the  eubter- 
riuiesu  cbapel  is  thrown  open  on  Ihia 
occasion ;  the  illuminations  of  St.  Pe- 
ter's and  the  girandola  on  tbe  Castle  of 
St.  Angelo  take  place  on  this  and  the 
BUeceeding  eveutnga.  aoth.  High 
moss  in  St.  Peter's  by  the  pope  in 
person,  at  10  i.  u.  At  3,  vei-peta  in 
St.  Peter's,  in  tlie  presence  of  all  the 
cardinals.  Kovember  Ist.  Higb  mass 
by  the  pope  in  person  at  10  *.  M.,  in 
the  Sittine  chapel.  At  3  r.  u..  rev 
pers  for  Ihe  dead  in  the  same,  in  tlie 
presence  of  tbe  pope  and  the  whole 
2nd.    Hii  ■ 


hy  ll 


ion  of  tfa 


alignoncy  of  si 


purified  fr 

and  irho  are,  inereiure,  in  a  state  oi 
reconciliation  wilh  God.  Tlie  mili- 
tary band*  strike  up,  Ihe  bclU  of  St. 
liter's  and  the  •rlillery  of  St.  Angelo 

lebratiun   of  the    resurrection.       At 
the  illumination  of  St.  Petar'i 


ACSf.u.  Ihevhole 
.  brillUnt  running 
flame,  which  is  seen  beautifully  either 
from  the  Piazza  of  St.  Peter's  or 
tbe  Pincian  llillj  and,  if  people  are 
quick,  it  ma;  easily  be  seen  fiom  botb 
places.  Eailcr  Moiaby Tbe  cele- 
brated giraiuluta  from  the  caslle  of 
to  bcliri 


dead.  3rd  and  5tb.  A  similar  ciare- 
mony  for  deceased  popes  and  cardioala. 
December.— Firsi  Sunday  i»  Advtnti 
high  mass  in  the  Siiline  chapel,  and 
procctuiun  of  the  pope  lo  the  Capella 
Paolina,  which  is  illuminated  fin  the 
occasion.  On  each  Sunday  in  Ad> 
lent  divine  service  is  performed  in  the 
pope's  chapel,  either 


palae, 


)  Mon 


'.  Citoi 


of  lire 


world.  It  is  said 
ligned  by  Michael  Angelo,  and  con- 
aists  of  two  discharges,  each  composed 
of  4500  rnckeli  and  other  fireworks. 
Mat. — Whltaundej/ 1  high  mass  in  ihe 
"'  ■■  e  chapel  when  the  pope  resides 
■"      s  per- 


e  Vatici 


Ibtmcd  al 


It  S.  Maria  Masgioi 

]  S  o'clock  females  are  allowed  lo  visit 

tbe  Gruite  Vatlcane,  or  subterranean 

chapel.      Corpna  Domini ;  the  solemn 

procession  of  Ihe  SS.  Sacramento,  in 


Coarfptioa  d/  the  FirgU ,-  high  mua 
in  the  Sistine  chapel.  34th.  Chiitl- 
tuoM  Ece;  vespers  in  the  Sistine 
cbapel  at  J.  At  B  a.  u,  high  mai^ 
generally  in  the  presence  of  the  pope, 
which  lasts  till  midnight  The  pope 
on  this  occasion  blessea  tbe  hat  and 
sword  which  he  aftecH-ards  sends  as  a 
present  to  some  ILoman Catholic  prince. 
23th.  ChriiHaes  Dam  grand  nam  at 
10  i.  M,  in  St.  Peter's  by  the  pope  in 
person,  attended  hy  the  caidinals,  the 
clergy,  and  tbe  whole  court.  Sfilh, 
Mass  at  10  a.  h.  in  the  Sistine  chapel, 
in  honour  of  St.  Stephen.  STth.  A 
similar  servics  in  honour  of  St.  John 
tbe  Evangelist,  and  vespers  in  St.  John 
Lnteran.  Slst  Vespers  in  the  Sistine 
chapel,  at  which  the  pope  is  generally 
present. 

Vespers  are  perfurmed  every  day  at 
3  e.H.  in  Ihe  Capella  del  Coro,  in  St, 
Peter's,  in  the  presence  of  a  cardinal : 


Papal  Staieii^  roCTE  27.  —  rome.  —  St,  John  Lcffe^an.     399 

on  Fridays  and  Sundays,  on  account '  election  of  a  new  pope,  whose  coro- 
of  the  fine  music  by  which  they  are  nation  invariably  takes  place  in  this 
generally  accompanied.  |  basilica.     It  is  one  of  the  four  basi- 

Tlckets  of  admission  to  St.  Peter's  licas  which  have  a  **  Porta  Santa,"  so 
And  the  Sistine  chapel  at  the  cere- '  that  for  1500  years  it  has  preserved 
monies  of  the  holy  week  are  necessary  its  rank  and  privileges.  It  is  also  re- 
ibr  ladies  only  ;  ladies  who  wish  to '  markable  for  the  five  general  councils 
livail  themselves  of  seats  must  be  which  have  been  held  here,  and  to 
dressed  in  black  veils  during  all  the  which  we  shall  recur  hereafter.  The 
ceremonies.  Gentlemen,  if  in  black  '  old  basilica  was  nearly  destroyed  by 
evening  dress,  or  military  men  in  uni-  fire  in  the  pontificate  of  Clement  V., 
form,  are  admitted  within  the  bar.  !  but  it  was  restored  by  this  pope,  and 
Ladies  tickets  may  be  procured  subsequently  enlarged  and  remodelled 
through  any  cardinal  or  ambassador,  by  many  of  his  sufltessors.  Sixtus  V« 
and  through  the   consul  or  banker,   added  the  portico  of  the  Scala  Santa 


Admission  to  the  loggia  of  the  ambas- 
sadors and  princes  during  the  illu- 
minations is  only  to  be  obtained  on 
application  to  the  major-domo.  To 
see  the  girandola,  places  in  the  Palazzo 
Altoviti  may  be  secured  at  a  scudo  for 
each  scat.  Rooms  commanding  a 
view  of  the  castle  let  from  5   to  20 


from  the  designs  of  Fontana,  and 
Clement  VIII.  enlarged  the  tran- 
septs  and  side  aisles  from  the  designs 
of  Giacomo  della  Porta.  In  the  time 
of  Innocent  X.  (1644)  Borromini 
loaded  the  nave  with  ornaments,  and 
surrounded  the  granite  columns  with 
cumbrous  piers.    Clement  XII.  (Cor- 


and  SO  scudi,  according  to  the  ac-  sini)  completed  the  work  of  renova- 
commodation.  The  fees  for  seeing  St.  tion  in  1734,  by  adding  the  principal 
Peter*s  amount  to  several  pauls :  there  facade  from  the  designs  of  the  Flo- 
are  separate  sacristans  for  the  crypts, '  rentine  architect  Alessandro  Galilei, 
the  dome,  &c.,  each  of  whom  expects  After  these  numerous  restorations  and 
two  yauls.  capricious  changes  it  will  hardly  be 

■  2.  Basilica  of  St,  John  Lateran.  —  expected  that  the  basilica  has  pre- 
Tlils  celebrated  basilica  occupies  the  served  much  of  its  original  character, 
site  of  the  house  of  the  senator  Plau-  <  The  &9ade  is  a  fine  example  of  the 
tins  Lateranus,  from  whom  it  derives  architecture  of  the  last  century  :  it  is 
its  name.  lie  is  mentioned  by  Tacitus  '  built  entirely  of  travertine,  and  has 
as  concerned  in  the  conspiracy  of  Piso,  four  large  columns  and  six  pilasters 
for  which  he  was  put  to  death  by  Nero. '  of  the  composite  order  sustaining  a 
The  site  afterwards  passed  into  the '  massive  entablature  and  balustrade, 
family  of  Marcus  Aurellus,  who  was '  on  which  are  placed  colossal  statues 
born  near  the  palace.  In  the  fourth  '  of  our  Saviour  and  ten  saints.  Be- 
century  the  Lateran  house  was  con-  tween  the  columns  and  pilasters  are 
ferred  by  Constantine  on  the  bishop  five  balconies  ;  from  that  in  the  centre 
of  Rome  as  his  episcopal  residence,  the  pope  pronounces  his  benediction 
Constantine  then  founded  this  luLsilica, '  on  the  people  on  Ascension  Day. 
agisting  with  his  own  hands  to  dig  The  whole  front  is  broken  into  oma- 
the  foundations.  It  was  long  re-  ments  and  details,  which  lessen  the 
garded  as  the  first  of  Christian  general  effect,  and  make  the  styl^ 
churches,  and  the  inscription  over  ,  seem  better  adapted  to  a  theatre  than 
tlie  door  calls  it  omnium  urbis  et  orhis  \  a  church.  In  the  vestibule  is  a  mar- 
Ecclesiarum  Mater  et  Caput,  The  ^  ble  statue  of  Constantine,  found  in  his 
chapter  of  the  Lateran  still  takes  pre-  baths  on  the  Quirinal,  and  bearing 
cedence  over  that  of  St.  Peter's ;  the  ample  evidence  of  the  decline  of  art, 
ceremony  of  the  /MMetto,  or  taking  '  lliere  are  five  entrances  to  the  basi- 
possesion  of  the  Lateran  palace,  is  lica ;  the  middle  one  has  a  bronze 
one  of  the  first  forma  obser\*ed  on  the '  dooT,  md  lo  Vvt«  Xs^^  >nt^>\<\^N.  V\ 


\ 


F 

■  Mmitii 


R.  27.  —  ROME.  -^  BaiHieass  St.  Jbfci  talamt.  {f 


SmS 


r  VII.  fron 


Ue  Tu'ma  of  the 
be  >i»  of  the 
ehiireli  Ot  S.  Aririano,  in  (he  Fvrum  ; 
Ihe  neit  door  it  the  Porta  Sanu.  and 
i*  of  CDune  •rslled  up.  The  inlerior 
hai  Iwt  the  diitiiiGlWe  chanwun  of 
the  basilica  under  llie  hands  af  Bar- 


rails  a 


edifice. 


Ycred 


Tlie 


■ted' 


dirided  by  four  rOTri  ofpien.  Those 
of  Ihe  nave,  in  »l*ch  Borromini  has 
encased  the  columns  uf  the  old  basi- 
lica, are  pierced  with  riches,  cootnin- 
ing  colossal  ntatues  of  the  Apottlea. 
Tliese  italucs  are  characteristic  speci- 
meos  of  the  school  of  Bernini,  wilh  oil 
its  otravaganciei,  and  yet,  with  their 
acknowledged  bulls,  the  effect  of  so 
many  colossal  figures  is  iuiposiog,  and 
seldom  &ils  to  find  admiren.  The 
St.  James  the  Great,  the  St.  Matlhew, 
the  St.  Andrew,  and  the  St.  John,  are 
by  fliiKtmi;  the  St.  Thomas  and  Sl 
Bilrtholoiiiew  are  by  Le  Gnu;  the 
Sl.  James  Ihe  Less  is  by  ^Hgda  Rati; 
the  St.  Thaddeus  is  by  Lortrno  Otttmi  ,■ 
(be  St.  Simon  by  Fraiiaieo  Maratti ; 
*  St.  Philip  by  Giuirpi»  Mazzmli ; 
the  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  arc  by 
_.  ,  a  French  sculptor.  The  one 
ivhich  bas  the  greatnt  merit  as  a  work 
of  art,  is  ihe  St.  James  Ihe  Lets,  by 
The  Apostles  appear  to  me 


Corsini,  tcoai  the  designs  of  Ales 
tandro  Galilei  (1T29).  Nothing  can 
surpass  the  mapiiBoence  of  this 
lieiutiful  structure  :  tlie  richest 
bles,  the  most  elaborate  ornaments 
and  gilding,  columns  of  pre 
msrbles,  bss-reliela,  and  even  gemi, 
liave  been  lavished  on  iu  dccoratlona 

rollel  in  any  other  private  chapel  In 
Rome,  except  the  BorghesG  In  "' 
Maria  Maggiore.  Notwithstanding 
Ihis  excess  iif  Qrnament  Ihe  whole  haa 
been    conlrolled   and    subdued   by   ■ 


.1  faU  t 


.o  fiill  u 


of  Ihe 


the  painters.  The  drapery  of  those 
figures,  from  being  disposed  in  large 
maiucs,  gives  imdoubledly  that  air  of 
grandeur  vhich  magnitude  or  quan- 
tity is  sure  to  produce  i  but  though 
it  be  acknowledged  iliat  it  is  managed 
wilh  great  skill  and  intelligence,  and 
contrived  to  appear  as  light  as  the 
materials  will  allow,  yet  the  weight 
and  solidity  of  slone  was  not  la  be 
!.■ — Sir  J,  Sfi/Jtoldi.  Aboie 
some  fine  bas-reUefii.— The 
ament  of  the  nave  is  the  »u- 
Coriini  Chapd,  built  in  the  form 
■oft  Greek  cross  by  Clement  XII.,  in 
of  his   ancestor   St.    Andrea 


appreciated  after  the  deformitieti  of 
BoiTomini's  nave.  The  sltarpiece  is 
a  mosdic  copy  of  Guide's  picture  of 
S.  Andrea  Corsini,  now  in  the  Bar- 
beriui  Palace.  The  celebrated  por- 
phyry sarcophagus  which  forms  the 
tomb  of  Clemcnl  XI  I.  was  taken  from 
the   portico    of    the     Pantheon ;    the 

the  pope  '\i  by  Maini;  and  the  V 
lateral  figures  are  by  Carlo  Mooaldi. 
Opposite,  is  the  tomb  of  Cardinal 
Neri  Conini.  with  his  statue  and 
sitting  figures  by  Muni.  The  iigUTH 
in  the  niches,  representing  the  Car> 
dinal  Virtues,  are  by  Ruaconi  and 
other  followers  of  Bernini,  but  tbejr 
■re  not  remarkable  aa  works  of  art. 
In  D  vault  underneath  this  chapel  is  a 
bcflulifiil  Pied  by  flermaf.— In  th« 
nave  is  the  hronie  tomb  of  Martin  V., 
of  the  princely  house  of  Calonna,  ■ 
fine  work  by  Simane,  brother  of 
DunHlello.      The  high  allar  has  &iur 


™ng   . 

a  work 


Gothic  lahernacle,  curie 

of  the  14lh  century. 

structed  by   Urban  V.  t 

heads  of  St  Peter  and  Sl.  Foul,  which 

H-crc  found  during  I 

Ihe  ruins  of  the  old  b- 

the  arms  of  the  pope  and  the  king  of 

France.      The  irik%Hr,  or  aliat.  con 

tains    four    pointed    windows,   whici 

appear,    IVom    the    luscription    attri 

buting   this   part    of  the    basilica  t 

Nicholas    IV.,    to      belong     to    th 


PcfalStaUs*']  route  27.  —  home.  —  Si.  John  Lateran.     401 


SiTiODr,  St  John,  and  the  Virgin  (or 
Magdalen),  recently  presented  by  the 
Doke  of  Torlonia.  The  vault  is 
coTered  with  the  mosaics  of  the  old 
banlica,  eiecuted  in  1291  by  Jaeopo 
da  TmrUot  a  contemporary  of  Cimabue, 
and  inscribed  with  his  name :  they 
are  interesting  as  examples  of  art 
in  the  ISth  century,  but  they  con- 
trast  strangely  with  the  redundant 
ornaments  of  the  modern  nave. 

In  the  transept  is  the  splendid  altar 
of  the  SS.  Sacramento,  from  the  de- 
signs of  Paolo  Olivieri.  The  four 
bronse-gilt  columns  of  the  composite 
order  are  traditionally  said  to  have 
belonged  to  the  temple  of  Jupiter 
Capitolinus,  and  to  have  been  cast  by 
Augustus  out  of  the  bronze  rostra  of 
the  vessels  captured  at  the  battle  of 
Aetium.  Near  this  transept  a  table  is 
shown  as  that  on  which  the  Last  Supper 
was  eaten.  Above  is  a  fresco  of  the 
Ascension  by  Cav,  d*Arpino,  who  is 
buried  in  this  church,  near  the  grave 
of  his  contemporary  Andrea  Sacchi. 
On  the  second  pier  of  the  first  side 
aisle  on  the  right,  is  the  portrait  of 
Bonifiice  VIII.  by  Giotto,  who  has  re- 
presented the  pope  between  two  car- 
dinals, announcing  from  the  balcony 
the  jubilee  of  ISOO.  It  is  the  only 
remaining  firagment  of  the  paintings 
of  Giotto,  which  covered  the  loggia 
of  the  old  I^teran  palace.  Tlie  other 
paintings  in  the  basilica  scarcely  re- 
quire notice  :  the  best  arc  the  Daniel 
of  Proeaeeini,  and  the  Jonas  of  Conca, 
The  sacristy  contains  a  drawing,  at- 
tributed to  Raphael,  of  the  Madonna 
della  Casa  d*Alba,  now  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, and  an  Annunciation  after 
Miehad  Angelo* 

The  church  ceremonies  which  take 
place  in  St.  John  Lateran  are  very 
imposing.  On  the  Saturday  before ! 
JE^sister,  after  the  baptism  of  the  Jews  ! 
and  infidels  in  the  baptistery,  the  car-  ' 
dinal  bishop  holds  an  ordination  in 
this  basilica.  On  Ascension  Day  high 
mass  is  performed  here  by  the  pope 
in  parson,  who  afterwards  pronounces 
his  benediction  on  the  people  from  i 
Ibe  Mconj,  The  pope  again  performs  \ 


high  mass  here  on  the  Festival  of  St. 
John  the  Baptist,  on  the  24th  June. 

The  five  General  Councils  which 
have  given  such  celebrity  to  this  basi- 
lica, and  which  are  universally  known 
as  the  Lateran  Councils,  are  the  fol- 
lowing:—  L  March  19.  112S,  in  the 
pontificate  of  Caliztus  II.,  at  which 
the  questions  connected  with  the  In* 
vestiture  were  settled.  II.  April  18. 
1139,  under  Innocent  Ilr,  at  which 
the  doctrines  of  Peter  de  Bruys  and 
Arnold  of  Brescia  were  condemned, 
and  measures  taken  to  terminate  the 
schism  of  the  Antipopc  Anacletus  II. 
III.  March  5.  1179,  under  Alex- 
ander III., at  which  the  schism  caused 
by  Frederic  Barbarossa  was  termi« 
nated,  and  the  doctrines  of  the  Wal- 
denses  and  Albigenses  were  con- 
demned. IV.  November  11.  1215, 
under  Innocent  III.,  at  which  the 
Latin  Patriarch  of  Constantinople,  the 
Patriarch  of  Jerusalem,  400  bishops, 
and  the  ambassadors  of  France,  Eng- 
land, Hungary,  Arragon,  Sicily,  Cy- 
prus, &c.,  were  present.  At  this 
council  the  doctrines  of  the  Albigenses 
were  again  condemned,  and  the  errors 
of  Almaric  and  the  Abbot  Joachim, 
the  pretended  proplict  of  Calabria,  in 
regard  to  the  Trinity,  were  denounced 
as  heresies.  V.  May  3.  1512,  sum- 
moned by  Julius  II.,  and  continued 
for  a  long  time  under  Leo  X.  This 
council  is  remarkable  for  the  abolition 
of  the  Pragmatic  Sanction,  and  for 
the  conclusion  of  the  Concordat  be- 
tween the  Pope  and  Francis  I.,  by 
which  the  liberties  of  the  Gallican 
church  were  sacrificed.  Measures 
were  also  taken  to  supersede  the  acts 
of  the  oecumenical  council  of  Pisa, 
convoked  by  Ijouis  XII.  and  the  em- 
peror Maximilian,  in  opposition  to 
the  Holy  League  of  1511,  between 
Julius  II.,  the  kings  of  England  and 
of  Spain,  the  Venetians,  and  the  Swiss. 
The  only  general  council  which  has 
been  held  since  this  time  is  that  of 
Trent,  A.  D.  1525. 

The  Cloisters  retain  their  beautiful 
Gothic  of  the  12th  or  13th  century. 
The  o\d  c^v&fto^^  >Jkiwa^  ^\^  N 


H.  27.  —  HOME, — JBtaitieas  s  St.  Join  Lateran.  fSett.' 


cloist 
culumiM 
HI  or  the 
aong  the 
«  dMVn  htre  » the  mouEh  of  a 
lied  the  well  of  (ha  voinan  of 

nil);  tworoluinnsofPilaU-i 
>  eoluiiiii  uid  b;  Ibc  Itsditlon 
B  h«Tc  been  *p1il  when  the  i»ll  of 

■  4he  temple  vas  rent  in  twain ;    the 
V'yorphirry  slab  on  vhich  the  mltllFrs 

■  But  lots;    a  sUb  su|ipurte<l  b;  4  co- 
lointi*,  MJd  to  be  tlie  height  Qf  our 

laneor(thc  columns  nrefi&etbigh); 
Imineulauinltar  table,  in  which,wtieo 
I  pi'uM  doubled  the  real  pretence. 
_  Ac  waftr  fell  from  his  hand  through 
■he  dab,  and  Idt  a  hole. 

The  Baptiilers.  built  by  Congtan- 
tine,  and  deroraled  with  the  spoils  of 
BDcient  ediflves,  is  a  fmsll  octagonal 
structure  of  brick-work.  On  the 
aides  of  the  entrance  are  two  mag- 
niGcent  porphyry  culumns  ofthe  cotn- 
poiite  order,  half-buried  in  Ihe  wall. 
Eight  superb  coluniiH  of  the  ume 
malerTol,  taid  to  be  tlie  largest  known, 

the  building,  lupporting  eight  small 
columna  of  while  marble,  which  Eeem 
entirety  out  of  place,  and  ii^ure  Ihe 

KQCnl  elfcet.      Tlie  axicrior  of  this 
ilding.  and  the  general  arrsngemeDt 
|-Of  the  interior,  have  very   probably 
preserved  since  Ihe  time  of  Con- 
line,  but  the  building  is  known 
repaired  by  wvcral  popes 
ITth  oeulury,  when  Ur- 
n  VIII.  reaiorvd  it  as  we  now  see 
The  principal  paiotinfis,  illustra- 
dng  the  Life  of  the   Baptist,  are  by 
'    '        Saahii    the  frescaes  on  the 
■   by    Gimignani,   Carlo  Ma- 
,    and    Andrta    Caaiasui.     The 
f  foptiimo/ Font  is  a  basaltic  vase,  occu- 
I  PJing  a  great  part  of  the  floor,  and 
^  ^idently  intended  for  iinmersion.    It 

times  of  Chriitisnity,  has  always 

1  held  stered,  as  that  in  vhich 

'ire4  the  rite  of  bap- 


llim,  that  Rienii  hathcd,  on  the  nigh 
of  August  1.  1347,  Ibc  night  befbrd 
he  appeared  with  his  insioni 
knighthood,  and  summoned  Clemeot 

appear  befiire  him.  Ho 
crowned  in  the  bosillea  of  the  Lateran 
with  the  seven  crowns  of  the  Holj 
Spiiit,  which  he  pretended  to  M 
typical  of  the  gifts  he  had  received 
from  hesren.  Before  Ihe  close  of  tha 
year  Ibis  pompous  diiplay  terminated 

was  luperstitiously  believed  b^  many 
of  his  own  followers  that  his  downfall 
was  a  divine  judgmt 
fsnation  of  this  font.  'ITie  haptislery 
is  now  used  only  on  the  Satui  ' 
before  £aelcr,  fiir  baptiiing  converted 
inRilels  or  Jews. 

The  Scata  Sunla Under  thi 

portico  on  the  north  side  of  the  build, 
ing,  constructed  by  Sixttui  V,  froB 
the  designs  of  Funtana,  is  the  So^a 
Santa.  It  is  said  by  the  Roman 
liqusrics  that  Siilus  V.,  in  rdniilding 
Ihe  I.aterBn  palace,  rcligioualy  pra> 
served  that  portion  of  the  chapel  not 
triclinium  of  Leu  III.  which  bad 
escaped  Ihe  fire  by  which  thi 
paUcE  was  destroyed,  and  constructed 
this  pnrtlea  over  the  Sesia  Santi^ 
which  had  alio  escsped  the  flamei. 
The  staircnsecontislsof  twenty-e'  '' 
marble  steps,  sairl  by  the  Cburcb 

belonged  to   PilateTf 


n  the  identical 


hnuse,  and  to  hi 
stairs  which  Ih 
when  he  left  the  judgment-seat  They 
are  only  allowed  to  be  ascended  1^ 
penitents  on  their  knees  |  and  the 
multitude  of  the  faithful  wbi 
them  is  so  great,  tliat  Clement  XII. 
found  it  necessary  to  protect  them  by 
planks  of  wood,  which  are  sai' 
haye  been  three  limes  renewed, 
the  Cothia  chapel  at  the  summit, 
called  the  Sancia  Sanctarum,  formerly 
the  private  chapel  of  Ihe  popes,  and 
the  only  part  which  remains  of  their 
ancient  palace,  is  a  painting  of  tha 
Saviour,  Ave  feet  eight  inches 
height,  one  of  the  numerous  pinturea 


Papal  Staiea.']  rte.  27-  —  rome.  —  S.  Maria  Maggi&re,      403 


the  tradition  to  be  an  exact  likeness 
of  the  Saviour  at  the  age  of  twelve. 
This  chapel  contains  also  a  large  col- 
lection of  relics,  and  is  held  so  sacred 
that  no  woman  is  allowed  to  enter  it. 
Fontana's  portico  is  a  fine  structure, 
consisting  of  a  double  arcade  of  two 
orders:  the  lower  Doric,  and  the 
upper  Corinthian.  The  Scala  Santa 
is  in  the  middle,  and  on  each  side  are 
two  parallel  staircases,  by  which  the 
penitents  descend.  Near  it  is  a  tri- 
bune erected  by  Benedict  XIV.  to 
receive  the  mosaics  which  covered  the 
triclinium  of  Leo  III.  They  are  va- 
luable on  account  of  their  antiquity. 
They  represent  tlie  Saviour  giving 
the  keys  to  St.  Peter  with  one  hand, 
and  a  standard  to  Constantine  with 
the  other.  They  have  recently  been 
restored  by  Camuccini. 

The  Lateran  Palace  and  Museum 
are  described  under  the  proper  head, 
in  a  subsequent  page,  in  our  account 
of  the  Palaces  and  Museums. 
^  3.  Basilica  of  Santa  Maria  Mag' 
ffioref  the  third  basilica  in  rank,  and 
one  of  the  four  which  have  a  Porta 
Santa.  It  was  founded  on  the  highest 
summit  of  the  Esquiline,  a.d.  352,  by 
Pope  Liberius,  and  John,  a  patrician 
of  Rome,  in  fulfilment  of  a  vision 
representing  a  fall  of  snow,  which 
covered  the  precise  space  to  be  oc- 
cupied by  their  basilica.  From  this 
legend,  which  is  represented  in  a  bas- 
relief  in  the  Borghese  chapel,  the  edi- 
fice was  called  S.  Maria  ad  Nives ;  it 
afterwards  took  the  name  of  S.  Maria 
MaggiorSt  from  being  the  principal  of 
all  the  Roman  churches  dedicated  to 
the  Virgin.  The  interior  has  under- 
gone numerous  alterations  and  addi- 
tions, which  have  impaired  the  sim- 
plicity of  its  original  plan ;  but  in 
spite  of  these  changes  it  has  retained 
more  of  the  characters  of  the  basilica 
than  any  other  church  within  die 
walls  of  Rome.  It  was  enlarged  in 
432  by  Sixtus  III.  on  its  present 
plan,  which  has  been  preserved  amidst 
all  the  subsequent  reparations.  The 
tribune  and  mosaics  were  added  in 
^e  12th  century  by  Nicholas  IV. 


The  whole  building  was  repaired  by- 
Gregory  XIII.  in  1575,  and  the  prin- 
cipal facade  was  added  in  1741  by 
Benedict  XIV.,  from  the  designs  of 
Ferdinando  Fuga.  At  the  same  time 
the  interior  was  completely  renovated, 
the  columns  were  repolished  and 
adapted  to  new  bases  and  Ionic  ca- 
pitals, and  the  building  generally  was 
reduced  to  the  form  in  which  we  now 
see  it.  There  are  two  facades,  one 
in  front  and  another  at  the  back  of 
the  basilica.  The  first,  by  Fuga,  is 
one  of  the  most  unhappy  of  the  many 
failures  exhibited  by  the  church  ar- 
chitecture of  Rome.  Its  details  are 
not  worth  describing.  From  the  bal- 
cony in  the  upper  portico  the  pope 
pronounces  his  benediction  on  the 
people  on  the  Festival  of  the  As- 
sumption. The  vault  of  the  portico 
is  covered  with  the  mosaics  of  Gaddo 
Gaddi,  which  were  formerly  on  the  old 
fa9ade ;  they  are  well  preserved,  and 
have  lately  been  restored  by  Camuc- 
cini. The  other  front,  constructed  by 
Carlo  Rainaldiy  in  the  pontificate  of 
Clement  X.,  is  in  better  taste,  but  is 
scarcely  adapted  to  a  church.  There 
are  five  doors  in  the  principal  front, 
including  the  Porta  Santa,  which  is 
of  course  walled  up. 

The  interior  is  perhaps  the  finest 
church  interior  of  its  class  in  exist- 
ence. It  consists  of  an  immense  nave, 
divided  from  two  side  aisles  by  a 
single  row  of  thirty.six  Ionic  columns 
of  white  marble.  These  support  a 
continued  entablature,  which  has  un- 
fortunately been  broken  by  the  mo- 
dern arches  constructed  by  Sixtus  V. 
and  Benedict  XIV.  as  entrances  to 
the  side  chapels.  Upon  the  enta- 
blature rests  the  upper  wall  of  the 
nave,  with  a  range  of  pilasters  cor- 
responding in  number  to  the  columns. 
The  length  of  the  nave  is  280  English 
feet,  and  the  breadth  rather  more  than 
50  feet.  Tlie  roof,  designed  by  San- 
gallo,  is  flat,  and  divided  into  five 
rows  of  panils.  It  is  elaborately 
carved,  and  gilt  with  the  first  gol/* 
brought  to  Spain  from  Pam^m^ 

Wa8  VT««^\A^  \a    t^«lKCk.^«t  N- 


Si 


^HN  k'outK  ??■  —  itoM  z,  —  S.  Marta  Maggibre,    {^Sei 

^fTtrdiiund  *nd  Isabella.  Tlis  kidi.-  ot  lilc  lavJagE.  smounliiig  to  1000 
^B  (gilet  ttii  campuaCively  iiiirov,  and  crowns;  an  icl  uf  ganeras'ity  vbiuh 
b«*c  Tiullnd  Tooh  lillU  in  cliaracler  j  tlie  ordinal  repaid  by  bU  cch  ' 
with  thu  iiare.  Tbe  wbale  building !  patconsgi:  kftor  his  ocwssioii  li 
i(  rieht)'  but  tasLefully  decorated,  and  j  popL-dum.  Tlic  SiaciKa  a!  Ibe  cbapd 
il  would  be  difficult  to  ciag^ernte  ilie  are  by  (Tiabattiila  I'aizo,  Cttart  Ntt. 
iflVct  produced  by  its  simple  and  liia,  *iid  other  contemporarj  arUst). 
bcaulilul  plan.  Tfac  sides  and  end  of ,  111  Ibis  ohapcl  is  prtsi^rred  tbe  sacred 
(he  nave  abore  the  arch  of  tlie  tribune  Praepio,  or  the  cradle  of  the  p-"'-™— 
■n  coieted  vilh  mosucs  of  great  wliivh  forms  tbe  subject  of  a 
intwesl  in  the  history  of  art.  'Hiey  ceremony  and  procession  on  Cbriit* 
represent  in  compartments  difi't;reiit  mas  Eve,  at  vbich  the  cardinal- vicar 
c*«iti  of  the  Old  TeiUment,  illustra-  Kenerally  officiates,  Tbe  richness  of 
ting  chiefly  the  lives  of  Moi«t  and  this  chapel  is  far  surpassed  by  the 
Josbua,  Abraham,  luac,  and  Jacol>.  Borghtie  Chapel,  on  the  opposite  ude 
Tb«y  ate  knovn  by  Church  docu-  '  of  the  banlico,  built  by  Paul  V.  front 
ments  to  have  been  in  existence  in  the  '  the  designs  of  Flaminio  Ponzio  ( I  (i08}t 
8tb  century,  and  are  considered  by  and  remarkable  for  the  mBgniBoenM 
many  wrilen  to  be  as  old  as  tlic  5th.  of  its  arcbitCi^ture  and  decoraliona. 
Tbe  tribune  is  covered  with  mn^ics'  The  altar  of  the  Virgin  bosfuurfluted 
by  Jiiciipo  da  Turrlla,  the  artist  oricnlumns  of  Oriental  jaspaT,aiid  ia  ee- 
(hose  ilill  seen  in  St.  John  Lateran:  |  lebrated  for  the  miraculous  pun-' — 
they  represent  tbe  Coronation  of  the ,  of  the  Madonna,  traditiooally  a 
Virgin,  and  are  inscribed  with  tbe ,  buted  lo  St.  Luke,  and  pronounced 
name  Jacobus  Torrili.  The  high  altar  to  be  such  in  a  papal  bull  atiached  la 
i*  formed  of  a  large  urn  of  porphyry,  j  one  of  tbe  walls.  On  the  entabUture 
over  which  rises  Ihe  balducciiino .  of  the  altar  is  the  bionze  bas-relief 
erected  by  Benedict  XIV.,  from  the  representing  the  miracle  of  the  snow, 
designs  ot  Fuga:  it  is  supported  by  j  The  frescoes  On  the  sides  of  the  irin 
Ibur  porphyry  coluumi  of  the  Co-  duws  above  the  tombs,  Snd  those  oi 
^(hian  order,  entwined  with  gilt  |  the  great  arcbes.  are  by  Giitdo,  with 
palm-leaves,  and  i^  surmounted  by  six  .  the  eiceplion  of  the  Aladonna,  whicb 
bronze  ani^ls  by  Pieira  DraceL  was  painted  by  Jjinfranco.    The  tree- 

The  Chapel  a/  the  SS.  Sacranenbt, ,  cocs  Brouud  the  altar  and  on  the  pen- 
called  also  the  Capella  dd  Prtupio, '  dentives  oF  the  cupola  are  by  Coo. 
near  the  end  ofthe  right  side  aisle,  was  iT^riiinQi  those  of  the  cupola,  repre- 
erected  by  SiitusV.  on  tbe  designs  of,  senting  the  Virgin  standing  on  the 
PDnbuta,ial58S,andisricbinmB[ble9  ^half  moon,  ore  by  Lodavica  Cigtli, 
and  decorations.  It  contains  the  tomb  ,  Lanii  says  that  in  tbU  composition. 
of  Siitus  v.,  with  his  stiitue  by  Vol-  -owing  to  some  oversight  in  point 
■oldo;  and  that  of  Pius  V.,  a  fine  of  perspective,  which  notwithstanding 
mau  of  verde  antique  adorned  witli '  bis  earnest  entreaties  he  was  i  '  ' 
bronie  ornaments.  The  altar  of  the  '  lowed  to  correct,'  he  appears  lo  „ 
Sacramet;t  has  a  fine  tabernacle  sus-  disadvantage;  and  that  if  it  Imd  pe- 
tained  by  four  angels  in  bronze  gilt.  •  rlshed,    and  his  oil-painting  in    tba 

menced  when  Siitus  was  a  cardinal,  |  injured,  this  great  artist  would  have 

t-nd  that  Gregory  XIII.  suspended ,  enjoyed  a  bibber  reputation,  and 
is  allowance  on  the  ground  that  he  Baldinucci,  his  encomiast,  ha 
lusl  be  a  rich  man  to  incur  such  an  gained  greater  credit."  The  tom 
xpense.  The  work  would  have  been  I  of  this  cliapel  are  rctnarkable:  that 
ostpMied  in  consequence  of  tbii  pro-  Paul  V.,  the  founder  of  the  chapel,  ._ 
eJing,  if  Fonlana  had  not  pl«:ed '  covered  ivtli  bu-reliefs  and  small 
tbe  disposal  of  Sixttis  the  vl»ile\»\atuas\)'jBttooi\(ioiQ,\vv**"'*'^ 


Pc^mI Siates,'^  R.  27.— RbME. — S.Croce  in  GerusaJemme.    405 


and  other  followers  of  the  school  of 
Bernini.  The  tomb  of  Clement  VI 1 1., 
of  the  Aldrobrandini  family,  who  gave 
Paolo  Borghese  his  cardinaPs  hat,  is 
covered  with  bas-reliefis  by  Mochi, 
Pietro  Bernini,  and  other  sculptors  of 
the  same  school.  In  other  parts  of 
the  basilica  are  the  Gothic  tomb  of 
Cardinal  Gonsalvus,  by  Giovanni 
Cosmate,  at  the  north  end  of  the  right 
aisle,  with  an  inscription  dated  1299 ; 
the  tomb  of  Clement  IX.  (Rospig-> 
liosi),  with  sculptures  by  Guidi,  Fan- 
celli,  and  Ercole  Ferrata;  that  of 
Nicholas  IV.  (1292);  and  the  sepul- 
chral stone  of  Platina,  the  learned 
librarian  of  the  Vatican  in  the  l^tb 
century,  and  the  historian  of  the  popes. 

The  ceremonies  in  this  basilica  dur- 
ing  the  year  arc  of  a  very  imposing 
kind.  At  the  Feast  of  Pentecost,  the 
pope  performs  high  mass  here,  unless 
it  take  place  in  the  Sistinc  chapel. 
On  the  Festival  of  the  Assumption, 
August  15th,  high  mass  is  id  ways 
performed  in  this  basilica  by  the  pope 
in  person,  who  afterwards  pronounces 
from  the  balcony  his  benediction  on 
the  people.  On  the  8th  September 
the  pope  again  performs  high  mass 
here  in  honour  of  the  Nativity  of  the 
Virgin.  The  ceremony  on  Christ- 
mas  Eve,  in  which  the  Pre^tepio  is 
carried  in  procession,  has  been  al- 
ready  noticed ;  it  takes  place  at  3  a.m., 
but  is  not  calculated  to  repay  the  tra- 
veller who  looks  only  to  the  ceremo- 
nial display. 

In  firont  of  the  basilica  is  one  of 
the  most  l>eautiful  Corinthian  co- 
lumns in  existence,  called  the  Co- 
tonna  della  Vergine*  It  is  of  white 
marble,  and  is  the  only  one  which 
has  survived  to  attest  the  magnificence 
of  the  basilica  of  Constantine,  for 
which  it  was  no  doubt  taken  from 
some  edifice  of  cla^ical  times.  It  is 
said  to  be  forty-seven  feet  high  with- 
out the  capital  and  base,  which  are 
not  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the 
column.  It  was  erected  here  by  Paul 
V.  in  1513,  under  the  direction  of 
Carlo  Mademo.  On  the  top  is  a 
bront*  statue  of  the  Virgin  standing 


on  the  half  moon.  Near  this  is  a 
small  pillar  in  the  form  of  a  cannon 
surmounted  by  a  cross,  placed  here  to 
commemorate  the  absolution  given  by 
Clement  VIII.  in  1595  to  Henry  IV. 
of  France,  on  his  conversion  from  the 
Protestant  faith.  The  inscription, 
'<  In  hoc  signo  vinces,**  engraved  on 
that  part  which  represents  the  cannon, 
has  given  rise  to  some  speculation  as 
to  its  intended  application. 

4.  Basilica  of  Santa  Croce  in  Geru- 
salemme,  the  fourth  of  the  Roman 
basilicas,  was  founded  by  the  Empress 
Helena  in  the  Horti  Variani  of  Helio* 
gabaius,  close  to  the  Ampitheatrum 
Castrense.  It  derives  its  name  firom 
the  portion  of  the  true  cross  deposited 
in  it  by  the  empress,  and  from  the 
earth  of  Jerusalem  which  was  brought 
here  and  mixed  with  the  foundations. 
It  was  consecrated  by  St.  Silvester, 
and  was  entirely  repaired  by  Gre- 
gory II.  in  the  8th  century.  It  un- 
derwent frequent  alterations  under 
later  popes,  and  was  reduced  into  its 
present  form  by  Benedict  XIV,  in 
the  last  century.  The  fa9ade  was 
then  added,  and  many  of  the  columns 
were  walled  up  in  the  form  of  piers  to 
support  the  roof.  Eight  of  the  ori- 
ginal columns,  fine  masses  of  Egyp- 
tian granite,  still  remain,  and  divide 
the  nave  firom  the  two  side  aisles. 
The  high  altar  is  remarkable  for  the 
ancient  bath  of  basalt,  with  four  lions* 
heads,  in  which  the  bodies  of  two 
saints  are  now  deposited.  Two  of 
the  columns  which  support  the  bal- 
dacchino  are  of  the  marble  called 
occhio-di-pavone.  The  vault  of  the 
tribune  is  covered  with  frescoes  by 
PiniuricchiOf  representing  the  In- 
:  vention  of  the  Cross.  Below  the  ba« 
silica  is  the  subterranean  chapel  of 
I  St.  Helena,  decorated  with  mosaics 
by  Baldassare  Peruzzi,  The  conse- 
cration of  the  golden  rose,  which  the 
I  popes  in  former  times  sent  annually 
to  one  of  the  great  sovereigns,  took 
'  place  in  this  basilica.  At  present  it 
j  is  remarkable  only  for  its  large  col- 
I  lections  of  relics,  among  which  some 


m 


40» 


(KTOTl  87.— »i 


-S.Faohfitorile  Mitre.  ^Si 


During  llic  French  adminUlration, 
the  lilttufy  »««  Kniovfid  to  tiie  Vntj. 
'  ii;U  vu  subsequently  restored,  but 
Kijt  of  lliH  mrer  manuscripts  haii 
■in  ilolen  at  lost.  This  is  the  last 
if  ^h«  four  Insilicos  within  tbe  wslls 
lln&  The  true  ctoM  is  shown 
le  Atj  in  Eastcr-vcek, 
t_-S-  a—Utta  of  San  PaiA>  fuarl  /< 
'"  ,  Bhout  li  mile  beyond  the 
I  Sin  Paolo,  on  the  road  to 
Onia.  HtHKttj  yean  ago,  there  was 
no  object  al  llotne  which  the  student 
of  Christian  art  regnrded  with  more 


tWeir   i, 


nagnlfic 


.  teni|ito   of  the  ettrllest   ages  of 
"*"'        '     was  built  by  the  Emperor 
I  in  386.  on  the  site  of  a 
.    founded    by 
!  abore  the  tomb  of  the 
"  tpoMlu.    It  <ra*  completed  by  Hnno- 

by  Lea  Hi.  In  all  its  subsequent 
rvpain  the  original  plan  was  carefully 
preserved  I  and  in  spile  of  the  ma- 
laria wbieh  spread  over  the  neigh- 
bouring Campagna,  it  was  one  of  the 
first  places  to  wl '  ' 


oured  (. 


pilgrim 


It  was  a  perfeeC  muwum  of  Christian 
antiquities,  entirely  without  a  rivst  in 
any  other  citji  of  Europe,  with  the 
aingie  eiception  of  Raienna.  The 
extreme  length  of  the  basilica  was 
4 1 1  feet,  of  the  Irsnwpls  379  feel ;  the 
body  of  the  building  whs  295  feet  hy 
SI4  feel,  and  was  divided  into  a  nave 
and  4  aisles  by  4  rows  of  Corinthian 
oolumnsofGreet  marble  andparonai- 
letto,  20  in  each  row;  and  the  whole 
building  presented  an  nssemblage  of 
columns  amnunting  to  no  less  than 
I3B,  most  of  (hem  ancient,  and  form' 
ing  by  far  tbe  finest  colleetion  in  the 
world.  Under  the  high  altar  was  the 
tomb  which  the  Church  tradition, 
f^om  the  earliest  times,  had  pointed 
out  as  the  burial-place  of  the  Apostle 
Paul,  whose  body,  according  (a 
Plalina,  the  historian  of  the  popes, 
had  been  remoTed  here  from  the 
Vatican  in  the  pontifieate  of  Corne- 
//o*  A.T,.  SSI.  The  ransaica  of  the 
tribunes,  lire  brome  gate  cast  at  Con- 


traits,  the  Gothic  trindowi  of  ths 
north  aide,  the  Porta  Santa,  tlie 
monuments  and  the  altars  all  cotiv 
bined  to  increase  the  intereil  of  the 
building — an  interest  which  carried 
the  mind  back  at  onoe  into  the  middle 
ages,  and  presented  it  with  one 
the  roost  venerable  types  of  Chiiltiatl 
To  English  iravellera  Qtg 


>   had   I 


addlll 


■cli  of  which  die 
sovereigns  of  England  were  proleelori 
previous  to  the  Reformalioti,  pre- 
cisely as  the  emperor  of  Austria  is 
the  protector  of  St.  Peter's,  the  king 
of  Franec  of  St.  John  Lateran,  and 
the  queen  of  Spain  of  Santa  SfaHk 
Afaggiore.  All  this,  howerer,  ba* 
passed  away,  and  the  fabric  in  which 
Christian  worship  had  been  perlbrmed 
unioterruptedly  for  1500  years,  ws» 
reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruiui  on  the  Ifitll 
July,  1834.  The  roof  look  Are  during 
some  repairs,  and  fell  Into  the  aialet, 
where  it  caged  with  such  eitraordi- 
nary  fierceness,  that  the  enormoua 
columns  of  the  nare  were  eompletely- 
caldned,  and  the  large  porphyry  co- 
lumns of  the  altars  and  those  of  th* 
tribune  were  split  into  iragmenla.' 
The  only  portions  which  escaped  were 
tbe  western  fejadc,  with  its  mosliet 
of  the  l.'Jlh  century ;  a  colonnadff 
erected  hy  Benedict  Xlll.i  the  tH- 
bune,  and  the  mosaics  of  the  5th  een- 
lury  on  Its  vault;  some  portion*  of 
the  portraits  of  the  popes;  part  of  the 
broniegatCi  the  forty  columns  ofthe 
iphagi  with 


eliefe.      Sin( 


lity,  large  sums  have  b 
contributed  by  the  Catholic  soverelgni' 
princes,  and  by  each  successiTe 
pope,  far  tbe  restoration  of  the  bulld- 
md  the  work  Is  still  in  progress 
the  direction  of  the  Roman  ar- 
ts Belli  and  Poktli.  The  tran- 
nd  the  high  altar  were  finished 
and  dedicated  in  1841  by  Gregory- 
XVI.  Nothing  can  eiceed  the  rich- 
ness and  magnificence  of  this  part  of 
the  edifice,  but  years  mu.it  elapse  be- 
fore  Its  coni\i\M\mi  tan  te  Vwatod  for. 


Papal  Siaies.']  rts.  27.— Rome. — BanUcas;  S.  Lorenzo.     407. 

The  40  columns  of  the  nave  have  but  it  appears  to  have  been  founded 
been  replaced  by  splendid  shafts  of .  by  the  Empress  Galla  Placidia  in  the 
whitish  grey  granite,  brought  at  |  5th  century.  It  was  entirely  rebuilt, 
a  cost  of  1100  scudi  each  from  the  .  in  578  by  Pelagius  1 1.  Towards  the 
quarries  of  Montorfano,  near  Baveno,  |  end  of  the  8th  century  Adrian  I. 
on  the  Lago  Maggiore.  The  beau-  reversed  the  plan  of  the  building  by 
tiftil  columns  of  Egyptian  alabaster,  adding  a  new  nave  in  the  place  of  the 
presented  by  the  Pacha  of  Egypt,  |  old  tribune,  and  bringing  the  entrance 
can  only  be  seen  by  an  order.  In  immediately  opposite  the  altar.  From 
1847,  the  present  pope,  Pius  IX.,  that  time  the  general  arrangement  has. 
commissioned  a  number  of  artists  to  been  tolerably  preserved,  although 
execute,  partly  from  original  portraits,' the  building  has  been  repaired  and 
partlyfrom  medals  and  coins,  the  like- 'altered  by  many  of  the  popes.  la 
nesses  of  all  the  sovereign  pontiffs,  his  1216,  Honorius  III.  added  the  east 
predecessors  (258  in  number),  that  wing  of  thp  portico,  and  in  1657 
these  may  be  copied  in  mosaic,  to' Alexander  VII.  restored  the  whole 
adorn  this  basilica  in  the  p^e  of  building  in  its  present  form.  The 
those  which  were  destroyed.  The  portico  has  six  Ionic  columns,  four  of 
pictures  are  afterwards  to  be  placed  which  have  spiral  flutings ;  they  ap- 
permanently  in  the  Vatican  Museum. '  pear  to  be  too  rude  to  belong  to  clas- 
It  has  frequently  been  regretted  sical  times,  and  are  probably  not 
that  the  rebuilding  was  ever  under- '  older  than  the  restorations  of  Adrian 
taken  on  the  ancient  site,  which  ,  I.,  in  the  8th  century.  The  paintings 
must  remain  uninhabitable  on  ac-  and  mosaics  of  the  portico  are  re- 
count of  the  malaria.  Many  would  ferred  to  the  time  of  Honorius  III. ; 
rather  have  seen  the  basilica  left  as  a  they  represent  different  events  in  the 
ruin,  and  as  a  picturesque  memorial  history  of  this  pope  and  of  St.  Law- 
of  Christian  antiquity.  For  many  rence.  Among  others  may  be  seen 
years  prior  to  its  destruction,  the '  the  coronation  of  Peter  Courtenay, 
monks  were  compelled  by  the  mala-  Count  of  Auxerre,  as  emperor  of  the 
ria  to  leave  the  spot  before  the  sum-  east,  which  took  place  in  this  basilica 
mer  heats  began ;  and  unhappily  there  in  1216.  Another  curious  painting 
18  good  reason  for  believing  that  the  is  that  of  the  demons  contending  for 
pestilence  increases  rather  than  di-  the  soul  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  weigh- 
minishes  in  severity.  \  ing  his  actions  in  a  balance.     The 

The  Cloisters  of  the  Benedictine  Interior  presents  a  nave  divided  from 
monastery  adjoining  are  highly  curi-  ,  two  side  aisles  by  twenty-two  Ionic 
ous  as  an  example  of  the  monastic  columns,  several  of  which  are  of 
architecture  of  the  12th  and  ISth  cen-  '  Egyptian  granite,  others  of  cipoUino. 
turies.  In  addition  to  many  interest-  ,  The  ancient  tribttne  of  Pelagius  ILt 
ing  sepulchral  monuments  they  pre-  as  in  many  of  the  old  basilicas,  is 
sent  almost  every  known  variety  of  raised  above  the  floor  of  the  nave ;  it 
column;  spiral,  twisted,  fluted,  and  contains  12  magnificent  fluted  co- 
sometimes  t«ro  or  three  of  these  fan-  lumns  of  pavonazzctto,  evidently 
ciful  varieties  combined.  Many  of  taken  from  some  ancient  building, 
them,  as  well  as  the  entablature,  are ,  They  are  buried  half-way  up  their 
covered  with  mosaics.  In  this  monas-  shafts  below  the  present  pavement, 
tery  Pius  VII.  lived  for  many  years  Ten  of  them  have  Corinthian,  and 
as  a  Benedictine  monk,  as  Fra  Barnaba  two  have  Composite  capitals.  The 
Chiaramonte.  |  entablature  is  composed  of  fragments 

6.  BtuUica  of  San  Lorenzo,  about  of  ancient  marbles,  among  which 
a  mile  beyond  the  walls,  on  the  road  friezes  and  other  ornaments  may  be 
to  TivolL  This  ancient  basilica  is  recognised.  Above  this  is  a  gallery 
generally  attributed  to  Constantine,  of  twelve  «nitd^  cx^Mtnxiv  ^>'«^  ^ 


ofM 


The  pntei 
Uul  kind  of  moiiic  called 
■uufriaiiNi.  Tbe  kifh  altar  and  iti 
marble  baldicchino.  tupporled  bj  four 
pgrpbjir;  columns,  slmijn  above  Uie 
fnnftanoni^  where  the  bodies  of  St. 
~  ~Airrence  and  of  Si.  Stephen  are  said 
I  be  iuterred.      The  scene  of  the 

_Arkied  by  the  church  of  S.  Loreoio 

■'In  Patio  e    Perna    near    Su.    Maria 

Uaggiore  i  and  a  constant  tradition 


o  Tibur 
le  of  hU  huiiai.  Behind  tbe 
a  nrcopha^u,  with  bu-reliefs 
iting  a  vinlage.  In  llie  nave 
e  the  two  anhnurt,  or  marble  pul- 
H^U,  highly  intere*ling  relics  of  the 
Fwrlieat  agea  of  Chriatianity,  and  only 
*  to  be  Ibund  in  three  oLbLT  churches. 
They  ctand  on  each  side  of  the  nase  ; 
tbe  Epistle  van  chanted  from  the  one 
on  the  Kiuth  side,  and  the  GosptI 
from  that  on  the  north  side.  In  the 
volute  of  the  eighth  column  of  the 
DBVB  on  the  right  are  sculptured  a 
Itztudand  a/roj,  which  hate  induced 
Wiiukvlmann    to    suppose    that    all 

of  the  temph 


oT'dinal  Gugllcli 
of|afInn«entI" 

f-  .  small  subterranean  chapel,  celebrated. 

its  I  for  tbe    indulgences    and    privileg« 

ur  I  conferred   on  it  by  different  papea  in 

he    releasing  souls  from  purgatory.    Close 

to  this  chapel  is  the  descent 

Catatombi  of  Sla.   CgTiaea, 

(he  body  of  S.  Lorenzo  is       . . 

to  have  been  al  first  interred.      These 

catacombs  form   a  low  gallery 

ledges  by  the  aides,  and  are  said  to 

clmreh  of  S.  Agneae. 


Iliey  are  seldom  visited,  as  thoM  of 
S.  Sebastian  afTord  a  belter  idea  of 
these  Christian  sepulchres,  and 
eiplored  with  far  less  risk.  TbeTa 
are  some  curiuus  ancient  fnigmmt* 
and  inscriptions  in  the  cloisters  of  thg 
adjoining  monastery.  Since  1831 
the  year  of  the  cholera,  a  publi 
cemetery  has  been  formed  here. 

7.  Baiiliea  of  San  Stbaaliami,  abon 
two  miles  beyond  the  gale  of  the 
name  on  the  Via  Appia,the  last  of 
tbe  seven  basilicas.  The  fo'  '  " 
of  this  basilica  is  scarcely  lessi 
than  that  of  the  others  we  ht 
scribed,  and  is  generally  attributed  la 
were  taken  fmm  one  I  Constantine,  But  the  present  edifice 
itlached  tollrerortico,is  not  older  than ' 


I 


of  Oetsvia.      Pliny  tells  us  that  the  |  entirely   rebuilt    by   Cardi 
architects  of  the  temples  and  Portico  i  Borghese,  ftom  the  designs  of  Pla> 
of  Melellus,  which  occupied  iht   ''"   — -  --  "      "         "'  -  -  ■• 


of  the   Portico  of  Octavia,  w. 
i.fipartans,  called    Sauros   and    Batra 
L^UB,  and    that   being    wealthy,    thi 
l^ly  reward  they  asked  was  the  per 
'    ■        "     inscribe  their  names  upoi 
This  was  refused;  bu 
Ibey  introduced  their  names  into  thi 
'   '     'luilding,  under  thi 


The 


s  of  a  li 

ily  of  the  column  seems  to 

rmed  by  Ihe  later  dlscovcric! 

r  ^feasor  Nihby,  who  found  ami 
le  ornaments  of  the  entsbtat' 
ftagmeots  representing  trophies 


.ctory. 


which  be  supposed  ti 
of  Actium,      Near  the  door  is  another 
■neient  sarcophagus  with  very  beauti- 
/iil  bas-reliefs,  representing  a  Roman 

nurriage:    it  was   converted  in  lhe\Sav\ouT'«  tee\„  -n^uia  he  was  met  by 
J3th  ceoturyinto  Ihe  tomb  of  Car-iSl.  PeUi  »\ft«»^tAw)ii(i«\i'e«i'Bi 


hare  disaj^eared,  and 
ohilecture  nor  the  de- 
;nl  anything  which  re. 
quires  notice.  The  chapel  of  S.  Se. 
bastian,  designed  by  Giro  Ferri,  has 
a  recumbent  statue  of  the  saint  Inr 
Anlonio  Giorgetti,  erroneously  attrt. 
buted  to  his  master  Bernini.  St. 
Sebastian  is  buried  under  the  allai. 
In  the  subterranean  chapel  the  bodies 
of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  are  said  to 
have  been  deposited  by  some  Greelci 
who  were  delected  in  the  act 
moeingthom  from  the  Vatican.  The 
sanctuary  is  famous  for  its  reli 


nake  a  long  list;  but  theme 
narkable  is  the  stone  which  is  i 

impression   left   hy  the 


Papal  States.']  r. -27. — rome. — Basilicas;  S,  Sebastiano.   409 


the  little  church  of  Domtne  quo  vcuttf,  \ 
which  was  built  to  commemorate  the 
event,  and  so  called  from  the  words  | 
with  which  St.  Peter  addressed  the 
Saviour. 

The  door  on  the  left  of  the  entrance 
leads  into  the  celebrated  Catacombs, 
called  the   Cemetery  of  San  Calisto, 
bishop  of  Rome  in  the  3rd  century, 
who  is  said  to  have  introduced  them 
into  general  use  as  public  cemeteries. 
The    most   probable   explanation    of 
these  immense  subterranean  chambers 
is  that  they  were  originally  excavated 
by  the  ancient   Romans  for  the  pur- 
pose of  procuring  the  pozzolana ;  and 
Cicero  is  supposed  to  allude  to  them 
in  his  oration  for  Milo  when  he  men- 
tions the  hiding-place  and  receptacle 
for  thieves  on  the  Via  Appia.     They 
consist  of  a  series  of  irregular  wind- 
ing  passages,  generally   arranged  in 
three   stories.      From    the    principal 
avenues,  others  branch  off  in  different 
directions ;   here  and  there  are  open 
spaces  which   served   as   chapels   or 
places  of  meeting,  and  on  each  side 
of  the  passages  are  the  niches  for  the 
dead.     There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  early  Christians  were  accustomed 
-  to  assemble  here  for  divine  worship 
and  for  concealment ;  the  fact  is  con- 
firmed by  abundant   authorities,  in- 
cluding all  the  fathers  of  the  Church. 
Whatever  may  be  the  disposition  of 
the  traveller  to  doubt  many  of  the 
traditions  which  he  will  meet  with  at 
Rome,  it  is  surely  impossible  to  enter 
these  catacombs  with  any  other  feel- 
ings than  those   of  deep  and  earnest 
interest,  or  to  pass  lighdy  by  the  se- 
pulchres which  still  contain  the  ashes 
of  martyrs  who  bore  testimony  to  the 
truth  of  those  principles  of  faith  which 
Protestants  and  Roman  Catholics  hold 
in  equal  veneration.     These  melan- 
choly tombs  are  their  own  interpreters, 
and  appeal  more  powerfully  to  the 
feelings  than  any  arguments  which 
can  l>e  advanced.      As  in  the  cata- 
combs of  Naples,  Syracuse, and  Malta, 
we  frequently  meet  with  small  cha- 
pels or  oratories ;  the  niches  are  ge- 
nerally tqiuure,  but  tome  of  them  art 


vaulted   and   form  small    chambers, 
which   still    retain   traces   of  stucco. 
All  the  larger  recesses  seem  to  have 
been   closed    externally ;    in    others 
there  is  a  grave  about  the  ordinary 
length  in  which   the  body  has  been 
covered   with  earth;    a  semicircular 
excavation  for  the   head  is  generally 
added.       In   some   of   these    niches 
small  apertures  may  be  seen  which 
have    evidently    been    intended    for 
lamps.     The  graves  of  children,  as  in 
the  catacombs  of  Malta,  occur  in  a 
very  large  proportion  :  sarcophagi  dci 
not   appear   to   have  been  common, 
and  it  is  remarkable  that  in  all  the 
passages  yet  explored  very  little  mar- 
ble of  any  kind,  except  of  course  that 
used   for   the   inscriptions,  has  been 
found.     The  extent   of   these    cata- 
combs is  almost  incredible  ;  they  are 
said  to  have  been  traced  for  a  distance 
of  nearly  twenty  miles,  and  tradition 
says  that  some  of  the  passages  reach 
as  far  as  Ostia.     Though  there  may 
be  reason  for  believing  that  this  state- 
ment is  exaggerated,  there  is  no  doubt 
whatever  that  the   excavations  now 
seen  by  travellers  are  a  very  small 
portion  of  what  has  been  already  ex- 
plored ;  but  the  danger  of  allowing 
such  a  labyrinth  of  subterranean  pas- 
sages to  remain  open  has  made  it  ne- 
cessary to  close  them.      It  is  also  well 
known  that  the  catacombs  of  St.  Se- 
bastian, although  said  to  be  the  most 
extensive,  are  by  no  means  the  only 
excavations  of  the  kind  ;  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned  those  of  Santa  Cyri. 
aca,  and    there   are   many  others   of 
considerable  magnitude  in  other  di- 
rections around   Rome.     Nearly  all 
the  monuments  and  inscriptions  found 
in   these   catacombs  have    been    re- 
moved  to  the   Vatican,   where   they 
cannot  fail  to  attract  attention  on  en- 
tering  the   museum.      With    a   few 
exceptions,    where    the    inscriptions 
relate  to  pagan  interments,  these  mo- 
numents belong  to  the  early  Chris* 
tians :  but  they  present  little  variety, 
except   in   the  arrangement    of   the 
well-known  emblems  and  v\  VVv!%^^\sw« 


BOUta  B?.—  «OMF.  —C^rmfHet. 


»iih  I 


a  of  Ihe  most  inlerewin 
■e  letul  frequenleil  quarters  < 
Up»Tirds  of  300  churclx 
■re  enumerated  in  Ihe  Tcwro  Sagn 
inilejiendentlj  oT  tliase  clawuil  miili 
the  head  of  Builicas,  whii 
henJ   iiianir  more  ihi 


h  compre- 


>e  dUlinc 


a  large  ■  num- 

u^i.iuuiEarecomjwralively  few  wiiich 
pouvn  any  general  inleresl  (at  the 
•tranger.  The  following  list  ineludes 
those  wkieh  are  in  any  way  remark- 
■UIb  for  their  work«  of  art,  Iheir  moou- 
menta,  or  their  arEhlteeture.  In  visit- 
ing Ihe  oburchei  tlie  usual  fee  lo  the 
ncriitao  ii  two  pauls.  Tlio  churchei 
are  gencraiiy  clused  from  IS  to  3. 

&  ilgata  dt'  Goti,  said  to  have 
been  founded  on  the  site  of  the  ma- 
Mmal  house  of  Utegory  tile  Great, 
but  having  been  plundered  by  the 
Oolh^  it  was  reeonaecrnted  by  St. 
Greeory,  and  dedicated  to  S.  Agala, 
It  adjoins  the  Irish  Seminary,  and  (or 
that  reaaon,  probably,  vas  choKen  ai 
the  resting-place  of  the  Hmrt  of  Da- 
"id  O'CoHHtU,  whicb  is  preserved 
here  in  a  silver  urn,  bearing  the  well- 
knovn  inscription  "  Naius  Ktrn, 
oWit   GencHB,-  »h- -'•   '—      - 


RT'V 

e;  bul  O  stranger,  h 

does  DOI 

unenmrcinable 

on  that 

ther  rejoices, 

yet  is  n 

t  wilhotit 

upi 

in,  (hat 

sod 

eannotafford 
f earth." 

s 

^?»««   in    ll 

«   Piatt, 

m^^. 

biji  t   on  the  spot  where  St.  Agnes 

said  to  have   been  publicly  eipowd  1 

after  ber  torture,  and  lo  have  i        ■  ' 

with   hlindne-a  the   firit  persoi 

saw  her  degradation.      TTiis  is  one  of  1 

"- !  best  eiamplea  of  the  Greek  crou  ( 

IlortiB,      It  was  entirely  rebuilt  in 

13   by   the  princB  of  the  Parafili 

Illy,  from  the  designs  of  Girolamo  \ 

iinaldi.  and    is  generally  reganled  L 

his   masterpiece.     The   fafiide  of  I 

vertine  is   by  Borromini,  vbo  «p-  f 

,«  ,„  i,„„e  hcen  eontrolled  bf  tEe  I 


chaster  s 


Caits  than 


left  any  record  of  nB 

.  -.       The    cupola    r,A 
iidded^by  Carlo  Rainaldi.    Tbeinltriat  \ 

Ight' 


The 


they  a 


pclsfoi 


three 

the  Greek  cron; 
lied  with    bas-reiiel^ 
I   merit  the  praises  be- 


Inily.      The  e! 


hadU. 


tomb  of  John  I-ascaria,  one  of  the 
refugees  from  Constantinople  (when 
Uken  by  the  Turks)  and  an  efticient 
promoter  of  the  revival  of  letters  in 
western  Europe,  with  the  following 
inscripti[>u :  — 

Mil  1/ai  {,„„.  t  (1,1.  fti/ififWH, 
•rtiicb  may  be  thus  rendered  in  plain' 


id  bis  pupil  Cirbellim.  Among  ib« 
-Hues  and  sculptures  of  this  chunlk 
»e  may  mentinn  the  St  Sebastian,  an 
antique  statue  altered  by  Ptio7oCia^(  ' 
the  St.  Agnt,  by  Ercoli  Ferrata  ;  the 
group  of  the  Holy  Family  by  aw.«. 
mmCm-rfi;  and  the  bas-relief  rf  St 
Cecilia  by  Antmio  Baggi.  The  tomb 
of  Innocent  X.  is  by  Mmni.  In  the 
subterranean  chapel  the  bas-relief  of 
Ihe  altar,  representing  St.  Agnes 
miraculously  covered  with  hair,  is  by 
Algardi.-  it  has  been  highly  praised, 
bill  it  can  hardly  be  classed  among 
his  auccessfiil  efforts. 

S.   Agatis  fiioti  U   Mnre,  aba 
mile  beyond  the  Porta  PU,  one  of  the 


Papal  StcUcs.']     route  27. — rome. — Churches. 


411 


without  change.  It  was  founded  by 
Consiantine,  at  the  request  of  his 
daughter  Constantia,onthespot  where 
the  body  of  St.  Agnes  was  discovered. 
The  church  being  below  the  level  of 
the  soil,  we  descend  into  it  by  a  mar- 
ble staircase,  whose  walls  are  covered 
with  sepulchral  inscriptions.  The 
interior  presents  some  striking  cha- 
racteristics of  the  basilica ;  it  consists 
of  a  nave  separated  from  the  two  side 
aisles  by  sixteen  ancient  columns,  ten 
of  which  are  of  various  marbles,  four 
of  the  rare  porta- santa,  and  two  of 
pavonazzetto.  Another  row  of  six- 
teen columns  of  smaller  size  support 
the  upper  part  of  the  building  and 
the  gallery,  which  is  almost  an  unique 
example  of  its  kind.  Under  the  high 
altar,  with  a  baldacchino  sustained  by 
four  porphyry  pillars,  is  the  tomb  of 
St.  Agnes.  Her  statue  on  the  altar 
is  composed  of  an  ant  que  torso  of 
Oriental  alabaster,  with  modern  head, 
hands,  &c.  in  bronze  gilt.  The  tri- 
bune has  a  mosaic  of  the  7  th  century, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  saint.  At 
the  altar  of  the  Virgin  is  a  fine  Head 
of  Christ,  said  to  be  by  Michael  An- 
gtlOf  and  a  beautiful  antique  candela- 
brum of  white  marble.  Adjoining 
this  church  is  that  of  Sta.  Costanza. 

S.  Ago8tinOy  built  in  1483  by  Car- 
dinal d*£stouteville,  ambassador  of 
France,  from  the  designs  of  the  Flo- 
rentine architect,  Baccio  Pintelli. 
The  whole  building  was  restored  in 
the  last  century  by  Vanvitelli  (1740). 
The  elegant  but  simple  front  is  of 
travertine  taken  from  the  Coliseum  : 
the  cupola  was  the  first  constructed  in 
Rome.  The  interior  retains  some 
traces  of  its  original  Gothic,  and  has 
a  nave  and  side  aisles.  The  great  in- 
terest of  this  church  is  derived  from 
the  celebrated  fresco  by  Raphael  on 
the  third  pilaster  on  the  left  hand  :  it 
represents  the  prophet  Isaiah  and  two 
angels  holding  a  tablet.  If  we  may 
believe  Vasari's  story,  Raphael  painted 
this  fresco  after  he  had  seen  the 
prophets  of  Michael  Angelo  in  the 
Sistine    cbapeL       The    well-known 


tradition  that  he  had  clandestinely 
obtained  access  to  the  chapel  during 
the  absence  of  Michael  Angelo,  and 
immediately  repainted  the  Isaiah 
which  he  had  previously  finished  in 
his  own  style,  does  not  rest  on  good 
authority,  and  is  now  generally  dis- 
credited. The  imitation,  however,  is 
evident,  and  the  painting  as  a  whole 
is  by  no  means  equal  to  those  works 
in  which  Raphael's  genius  was  en- 
tirely uncontrolled.  The  fresco  was 
injured  in  the  time  of  Paul  IV.  by 
attempts  to  clean  it,  and  was  cleverly 
restored  by  Daniele  da  Volterra.  In 
the  chapel  of  St.  Augustin  is  a  fine 
picture  of  the  saint  and  two  lateral 
paintings  by  Guercino,  At  the  last 
altar  is  the  Madonna  of  Loreto,  by 
Caravaggio  (M.  Angelo  Amerighi). 
The  statue  of  St.  Thomas  of  Villanova 
is  by  Ercole  Ferrata.  The  fine  group 
in  marble,  representing  the  Virgin, 
the  infant  Saviour,  and  St.  Andrew, 
in  a  chapel  on  the  left,  is  a  remark- 
able work  of  Andrea  Sansovino  (A. 
Cantucci).  The  high  altar  and  its  four 
angels  are  from  the  designs  of  Ber- 
nini. The  Madonna,  near  the  en- 
trance, venerated  as  one  of  St.  Luke's 
too  numerous  performances,  is  evi- 
dently the  work  of  early  German 
artists. 

In  the  adjoining  convent,  a  fine 
building  designed  by  Vanvitelli,  is 
the  Biblioteca  Angelica,  so  called  from 
Cardinal  Angelo  Rocca,  who  founded 
it  in  1605.  It  is  the  third  library  in 
Rome,  and  contains  nearly  90,000 
volumes  and  2945  MSS.  In  this 
number  are  comprised  many  valuable 
works  from  the  collection  of  Holste- 
nius,  presented  by  Cardinal  BarberinL 
Among  its  treasures  are  some  valuable 
cinque-cento  editions,  some  inedited 
Chinese  and  Coptic  MSS.,  a  Syriao 
Gospel  of  the  7th  century,  a  Dante 
of  the  14th  century  with  miniatures, 
and  an  edition  of  Walton's  Polyglot, 
with  the  preface  acknowledging  the 
encouragement  of  Cromwell,  the  **  Se>- 
reniasirous  Princept,**  wbieh  was  after- 
wards altered  to  %ult  t]^  dftA\<usiu^^ 

1  ^ 


^; 


412  HowfB?.— 'ROMt. — C»w«*«. 

lo  Charin  II.      The  lihrnr]'  U  open   and  is cichly decorated.    Inlheehspet, 

dlily.  ciropt  on  holldi.yi,  from  8  ».m.   of  St.  Fnin™  Xavier  are  three  puntJ 

to  noon.  ingsbyitati'ce>i>(GumbattistaOuiUi], 

I   I    S,   Aleaio,  on  the   Avcntine,   lup-   the    GenoMe    pBintcr,    vbioli    Luui 

K.powrd  to  murk    the  position    of  the   cites  among  the  best  examples  of  hit 

r  Amtiiuoeruni,   where    Plutarch    lells  leriuuiistyle:  thef  represunlSt.Fiancif 

'    V*   lh»t   Talius  wRi  iaterred.      niis   Xmier  iMptiwng  the  qi  -  -    ■■   ■ 

church  is  3Uppo»il  to  dntc  from  the   and    the  death    of  tlie 

nib  centurj.      Some  mosaics  on  thu   dewrt  itlimd    of    Sanci, 

Cif  ade  irerc  damaged  by  Ilie  shots  of  The  chapel  of  St.  Sianiilnua  KoHk* 

the  French  batteries  in  1H49.  has   some    paintings   by    Band,  tb« 

S.  Andrrrt  diSt  FraNe.  close  to  the  wlebrated  French  painter,  while 
College  of  the  Propaganda,  rcstured  student  in  Rome;  and  an  altarptec 
at  the  end  of  the  Ifith  century  from  representing  &  Stanislaus,  a  chormin 
the  designs  oTGuerra.  Tlic  cupola  picture  by  Carlo  Manilla.  Undertt« 
bihI  steeple  are  among  the  most  fan-  altar  the  body  of  St.  Stanislaus  ii  prM 
tastiowork^ufBorromlni.  I^e  front  is  served  in  an  urn  of  lapis  laaulL  Tli4 
by  ChcT.Valadier(IS95).  professor  of, lamb  of  Charles  Emanuel  IV.,  tblf 
nrcliileclure  at  the  French  Academj'.  |  king  of  Sardinia,  who  abdicated  il 
InthechapelofS.  Francesco  diPoola  I  I80S.  and  became  a  Jesuit  in  tb 
are  two  angels  by  BcmMi;  the  Death  adjoininp;  coii.eot,  U  by  FeUa,  a  Pied.; 
of  St.  Atina  is  by  Pactlli.  In  thisjmonteae  sculptor.  The  paintii^  tt 
church  arc  the  lomba  of  the  celebrated  i  the  high  altar,  representing  the  Cm 
Prussian  sculptor,  Rudolph  Scbadow, '  ciliiion  of  St.  Andrew,  is  by  r 
by  his  countryman  Wolf;  of  Angc-  gogxiniE,  In  the  content  is  shi 
IJea  KaufTmann ;  and  George  Zuega, '  the  chambor  of  St.  Stanislaus,  e 
th*  leattied  Danish  antiijuary,  the  i  verted  into  a  chupei  by  Gius 
well  known  autlior  of  the  best  woik  I  Chiari.  It  contains  a  singulai  at 
eaMtil  on  the  Obelisks.  The  tomb  '  of  the  saint  dying,  by  Le  Gna .-  t 
of  Scbadow  recalls  one  of  the  many  I  head,  hands,  and  feet  are  of  wbi 
Boble  actions  of  Thorwaldsen.  When  i  marble,  the  robes  are  of  black,  ■ 
that  estimable  man  was  requested  by  :  the  coilch  is  of  yellow  marble. 
the  late  king  of  Prussia  to  Mecute  a'y  S.  Andrra  drila  Falla,  one  of  t 
large  work  ti>r  Berlin,  he  replied  that  I  best  spechnens  of  church  architecttlT^ 

there  was  one  of  bis  Majesty's  own   in  Rinne.    It  was  built  in ^^ 

subjects  then  in  liome,  who  was,  be .  the  designs  of  Olivieri,  ai 
humbly  submitted,  a  fitter  object  for  ',  by  Carlo  Maderno.  The 
bis  patronage.  The  result  is  well  is  by  Carlo  Rainaldl;  between  iU 
known  to  those  who  bate  seen  the  |  coupled  columns  of  (he  Curinthf 
Spimdiff  Girl  of  this  nccomplished  and  composite  orders  are  niohea «. .. 
•culplor.  1'hia  church  is  remarkable  I  tuning  statues  by  Somtnica  Gvidl^ 
for  the  ceremony  of  the  Tre  Ore,  or  Ercele  Ferrala,  and  FanalH.  Th» 
three  hours  of  Christ's  agony  on  the  |  interior  is  celebrated  for  its  painlingK 
vroas,  and  the  Stile  Dalari  of  the  llie  cupola,  one  of  the  most  beaulifiil 
Virgin,  which  Ukcs  place  on  Good  I  in  Rome,  is  painted  by  Lm/rauai 
Friday,  from  12  to  3  i-.m.  |  and  is  considered  one  of  his  most  aOBl 

S.  Audna  al  Nomiiato,  on  the  cessfol  works.  He  deioted  four  year* 
.Mont«Ca»Bllo,acuriouslittlechurch  to  its  execution,  after  a  long  anl 
built  by  IViuce  Camillo  Pamfili,  minute  study  of  Correggio's  cupola 
nephew  of  Innocent  X,  from  the  de-  at  Psrma.  The  glory  which  t  ' 
signs  of  Bernini,  as  the  Noviciate  Dfjtroduced  was  considered  to  for 
■tfae  Jesuits.  It  has  a  Corinthian  (a.- ,  epoch  in  art ;  and  FosAeri,  atUr  di^ 
iife  antJ  a  semi'oircular  portico  with  scribing  its  affect,  says, that  "' 
columns.    ..The  inteiior  is  o\a\,    moArn  an  ■uniV)  iA\ei  tiMw^e-, 


l*apai  States.']    route  27. —  home. — Churches.  4 13 

far  as  we  can  form  any  idea  of  these   of  some  interest  is  that  of  Cardinal 


glories,  he  has,  in  the  judgment  of  the 
most  dispassionate  critics,  attained  the 
highest  point  of  excellence,  not  only 
in  the  general  harmony  of  the  whole, 
which  is  the  main  point,  but  in  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  colours,  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  parts,  and  the  strong  cha- 
racter of  the  chiaro-scuro."     At  the 
four  angles  are  the  four  Evangelists  in 
fresco  by  Domenichino ;    and  on   the 
vault  of  thetribune  are  his  Flagellation 
and  Glorification  of  St.  Andrew.   The 
latter  are  most  remarkable  for  their 
clear  and  powerful  colouring ;  yet  we 
know  that  they  were  severely  criticised 
by  contemporary  artists.   Of  the  evan- 
gelists, the  St.  John  is  an  admirable 
figure,  powerfully  coloured  and  beau- 
tiful in  expression.     Amidst  the  out- 
cry against  these  frescoes,   Domeni- 
chino is  said    to  have    visited   them 
some  time  af\er  their  execution,  and 
to  have  said,  **  Non  mi  pare  d'esser 
tanto   cattivo.*'     Lanzi,   speaking  of 
the   evangelists,    says   that    "after   a 
hundred  similar    performances,  they 
are  still  looked  up   to  as  models  of 
art."     Beneath  the  frescoes  of  Do- 
menichino  at  the  tribune  are  three 
large  historical   frescoes  representing 
different  events  in  the  life  of  15t.  An- 
drew,   by   Calabrese    (Mattia   Preti). 
JLanzi  considers  that  they  are  heavy 
and  disproportioned,  and  suffer  from 
comparison  with  those   of  Domeni- 
chino.     In  the  Strozzi  chapel,  the  2d 
on  the  right,  is  a  bronze  Pietd,  copied 
from    that    by    Michael    Angelo   in 
St.  Peter's.      In  the  transept  is  a  pic- 
ture of  S.  Andrea  Avellino,  by  Lart' 
franco.      In  the  nave  are   the   tombs 
of  Pius  II.  and   Pius  III.  (Piccolo- 
mini),  by  Pasquino  of  Montepniciano. 
The    St.   Sebastian    in   an    adjoining 


Gozzadino,  nephew  of  Gregory  XV. 
The  1st  chapel  on  the  left  contains 
an  Assumption  by  Domenico  Passig"- 
nani;   and  four  statues,  of  which  S. 
Martha  is  by  Francesco  Mochiy  St.  John 
the    Evangelist   by    Buonvicino,   the 
Baptist   by   Piefro   Bernini,  and   the 
Magdalen  by  Cristoforo  Santi.     TTiis 
church    is   supposed   to   stand    very 
nearly  on  the  Curia  of  Pompey,  the 
memorable  spot  on  which  Csesar  fell. 
2^  S,  Angelo   in    Peschtria,   near   the 
Portico  of  Octavia,  supposed  to  oc- 
cupy part  of  the  site  of  the  Temple 
of  Juno,  noticed  in   the  description 
of   the    Portico,    under    Antiquities 
(p.  370).     It   contains  a  picture   by 
Vasariy  in  the  chapel  of  St.  Andrew. 
But  it  is  more  remarkable  from  its 
connexion  with  the  history  of  Uienzu 
It  was  upon  the  walls  of  this  church 
that  he  exhibited  the  allegorical  pic« 
ture  of  Rome,  which  first  roused  the 
people  against   the   nobles.     It  was 
here  also  that  he  assembled  the  citi- 
zens by  sound  of  trumpet  to  meet  at 
midnight  on  the  20th  May,  1347,  in 
order  to  establish  the  **  good  estate.*' 
After  passing  the  night  in  religious 
observances,   Rienei  marched  out  of 
the  church  in  armour,  but  with  his 
head  uncovered,  attended  by  the  papal 
vicar  find  numerous  followers  bearing 
allegorical  standards  of  Peace,  Liberty, 
and  Justice.      He  proceeded  in  this 
way  to  the  Capitol,  and  there  standing 
before  the  lion  of  basalt,  called  on  the 
people  to  ratify  the  articles  of  the 
Good  Estate.    This  memorable  scene 
terminated,  as  the  reader  is  of  course 
aware,  in  the  elevation  of  Rienzi  to 
power  as  the  tribune  and  liberator  of 
Rome.      The  Jews  of  Rome,  whose 
Ghetto  is  not  far  distant,  are   com- 


chapel  is  by  Giovanni  </e'  Vecchi,  of  pelled  to  pay  an  annual  tax  to  this 
Borgo  San  Sopolcro.  In  the  RuccUai  j  church,  as  well  as  a  considerable  sum 
chapel,  the  2(i  on  the  left,  is  the  tomb  |  to  the  Casa  dei  Neofiti,  or  House  of 


of  Giovanni  della  Casa,  the  learned 
archbishop  of  Benevento,  who  died 
in  1556.  He  was  the  biographer  of 
Cardinals  Bembo  and  Contarini,  and 
the  author  of  the  Galateo,  or  Art  of 
hiving  in  the  World,    Another  tomb 


Converts. 

S.  Antonio  Abate,  supposed  to  oc- 
cupy the  site  of  a  temple  of  Diana. 
In  the  chapel  of  the  saint  is  a  speci- 
men of  oput  Alexandrinum  of  tVv^ 
third  ceuluty,  Te^t«witv>AXi%   «».  >A%«t 

1  tS 


TIOBT*4T.  —  ROME.-^<!*«f«*ej.      5      f|iSl 


rough!  t 


in)  of  St.  Antonj,  Jam 
c««ral  foUowing  ilai 
*■  or  *ll  kind*  are 
or  or  lIiU  clmrcli 
rtioii  and  bo  np  rink  led  with 
■hfT.  llio  hones  of  the  pope, 
e  e&rdiiuli.  iiud  of  the  Ilomsn 
«en  here  on  tli»  Dccaiioii 
Ki  and  mu  Left  of  the  peo^ 
are  dretied  out  in  Iheir 
Jaj  coitumeH.  Hie  benediction  ift 
■uppMed  la  keep  tlicm  free  from  dis- 
*«ie  (br  the  ensoing  jeor:  altogethe 
it  it  •  curiam  and  characteristic  went 
"  Hie  bent  defenee  of  tiich  a  rcremon 
will  be  found  in  the  benefit  likely  t 
lault  to  the  oltjects  of  it,  from  it 
Dhing  that  cumprehenwie  chariC; 

^turcft  in  the  great  ciicle  of  Christia 
iMoavolenee.  There  is  something  iha 
ikci  a  delightful  hold  on  the  imagi 


Mrrinif.      By  Marinl'i  inscription  OB 

told  tliat  Ihii  inlereating  woik 
ciecuted  by  Cinova  in  his  twent} 
year,  and  we  may  tliercforo  n^ard  it 
as  one  of  the  lirrt  ffforts  of  the  new 
school  of  sculpture.  It  has  a  utting 
statue  of  the  pope,  and  two  fi^rea 
representing   TcmpertiDce    and     De- 

lercst  is  the  tablet  erected  by  Omcra 
to  the  oiemory  of  his  first  patrDB, 
"  ■      ■     ■■  ator   of   Venice 


Lotin 


:riplioI 


Without 


™pling. 


B-tUtOrcd  Illdi 
■  iMWcrrr,  to 

M«liictt  U  drawn  oicr  the  lot   of  the 

Khnver  anlinala  in  the  scale  of  creation, 

,    it  ia  difficult  nut  to  sympathise  with 

any  dovtrines  that  inculcate  kind  and 

humane    feelings    towards    them," — 

MirllAoci. 

_     SS.  Apmlali,  founded  by  Pelagius  I. 
in  the  siith  cenlurj,  rebuilt  by  Mar- 
r  tin  v.,  of  the   Colonna  bmilv,  about 
■.HSO.      The   tribune    was   added    by 
HSixtuB  IV.,  and  the  portico  by  Ju- 
Ffiua  II..  when  Cardinal  delta  Rovere. 
'  Hie  interior  was  restored   by   Fnm- 
eeseo  Fontana.      Under  the  portico  is 
a  large  antii]ue  bas-relief  of  in  eagle 
holding  a   crown  of  oat,   much  ad- 
mired as  a  specimen  of  ancient  art. 
Opposite  is  the  monument  erected  by 
C^wn  to  hia  early  friend  and  eoun-  ! 
trymnn.  Giovanni  Volpaio,    the  cele- 
bnted  engraier  ;  it  represents  in  bas- 
relief  a  figure  of  Frlendriiip  weeping! 
beCire  the  bust  of  the  deceaied  :  thci 

Tlw  lnieriar  of  the  church  is  remark-  . 

able  fur  another  line  work  of  Caaoim, ' 

•mb  of  Clement    XIV.    (Gan-' 

s/lij,  placed  over  tlie  doot  of  ihs  , 


the  heart  of  Maria  Clementinai,  w 
of  the  Pretender,  is  deposited :  ber 
tmiib  we  have  already  noticed  in  SIL. 
Peter's.  The  paintings  in  this  cbonh' 
are  not  remarkable-  the  altarpieo^ 
representing  ihe  Martyrdom  of  lb* 
Apostles  Philip  and  Jnme^  a  b]^ 
Jiamrnica  Miirotori :  it  is  the  largesl' 
allarpicce  in  Rnme,  and  is  fecblji 
praised  by  I^anii  for  its  just  propor- 
tions and  skilful  management  of  tfae 
lightit.  The  triumph  of  the  Vntf 
cincan  Ord^  in  Ihe  middle  of  Ibk 
roof  is  by  £ 
by  Btnnlclto  Lult,  in    the    chapel  c 

one  of  his  most  esteemed  worka.    Tb* 

festiril   of   St.    Bo 

brated  in  Ibis  ehur 

of  Ihe  whole  college  of  Cardinals,  09 

the  Hth  July.   , 

r  ^™  Call.— We  hav 

in  the  description  of  the  Artiquilie* 

that  the  church  of  S.  Maria  d'  A 

Coeli  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  a 

tf  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Ferebit 

The  church  is  of  high  antiquity,  pr 

bdbly    as    old   as  the   sittb  eenlmj. 

I'he  fafade    of  brick-work,  which  ic 

still   unfinished,  is  more  1 

the  fragment  of  Gothic  w 

^ited  windows  and  cor^ 


0  the 


two  side  aisles,  separated  bjr 
nly-two  large  columns  of  dilTereot 
s   and   materinK  taken   probably 


Papal  Staies,2 .  route  27-  —  ROM  e, — Churches. 


415 


gard  to  uniformity  of  style.     Twenty 
are  of  Egyptian  granite,  and  two  of 
marble.     Their  bases  and  capitals  are 
also  different ;  and  some  are  so  much 
shorter  than  the  others  that  it  has  been 
necessary  to  raise  them  on  pedestals. 
On  the  third  column  on  the  left  of  the 
main  entrance  is  this  inscription,  in 
letters  evidently  antique : — a  cvbicvlo 
AVGVSTOBUM.     Its  authenticity  has  not 
been  doubted,  and  it  would  therefore 
appear  to  prove  that  the  church  was 
built  with  the  spoils  of  the  Palace  of 
the  Cssars.     The  floor  of  the  church 
is  entirely  mosaic,  of  a  very  ancient 
kind,  containing  some  specimens   of 
rare  stones.     The  name  of  Ara  Coeli 
has  given  rise  to  considerable  contro- 
versy :  the  Church  tradition  tells  us 
that  it  is  derived  from  the  altar  erected 
by  Augustus  near  the  site  of  the  pre- 
sent high  altar,  to  commemorate  the 
prophecy  of  the  oracle  of  Delphi  re- 
specting the  coming  of  our  Saviour. 
It  bore  the  inscription,   Ara  primo' 
genito  Dei,  from  which  the  legend  has 
derived  the  modern  title.     Others  re- 
ject this  as  a  mere  tradition  of  the 
monks,  and  tells  us  that  the  church  in 
the   middle   ages    bore   the  name  of 
S.  Maria  in  Aurocido,     The  contro- 
versy possesses  little  interest,  and  is 
not    worth    pursuing    further.      The 
church  and  convent  belonged  to  the 
Benedictines  until^l252,  when  Inno- 
cent IV.  transferred  it  to  the  Fran- 
ciscans, who  have  held  it  to  the  present 
time.     On  entering  the  church  by  the 
principal  door  the  first  chapel  on  the 
right  contains  an  admirable  series  of 
frescoes  by   Pinturicchio,  illustrating 
the  life  of  St.   Bernardino  of  Siena, 
which  have  recently  been  restored  by 


the  lateral  pictures  in  the  chapel  of 
St.  Margaret  of  Cortona,  representing 
the  Conversion  and  Death  of  the  Saint, 
by  Filippo  Evangelisti,  the  able  assist- 
ant of  Marco  Benefial,  who  frequently 
exhibited  the  works  of  Evangelisti  as 
his  own  ;  the  Transfiguration,  in  one 
of  the   last   chapels,   cited  by  Lanzi 
among  those  works  of  Girolamo  Sicio- 
lante  da   Sermoneta  in  which  he  ap- 
proached nearest  to  Raphael ;  and  the 
frescoes  on  the  roof  of  the  chapel  of 
St.   Antony,   by    Niccold  da   Petaro, 
There  are  some  interesting  tombs  in 
this  church :  the  Gothic  mausoleum 
of  the  Savelli,  a  name  which   carries 
us  back   into   the   mediaeval   history 
of  Rome,  is  by  Agostino  and  Angeh  da 
Siena,   from   the   designs,   as    Vasari 
tells   us,   of  Giotto.      The    base    is 
formed    of  an    ancient    sarcophagus 
covered  with  bacchanalian  emblems. 
Near  the  high  altar  is  the  tomb  of 
Cardinal   Giambattista  Savelli,  which 
Nibby  considers  to  bespeak  the  style 
of  Sansovino.     In  the  floor  of  the  left 
transept  is  the  tomb  of  Felice  de*  Fre- 
dis,  whose  inscription  claims  immor- 
tality for  him  as  the  discoverer  of  the 
Laocoon.     He  died  in  1 529,  and  the 
inscription  is  gradually  becoming  ille- 
gible :  it  is  an  interesting  record,  and 
ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  disappear. 
The     celebrated     traveller     of    the 
17th    century,    Pietro    della     Valle, 
whose    Travels    in    Turkey,    Egypt, 
Persia,  and  India  have  been  translated 
into  English  and  French,  is  also  buried 
in  this  church.     Another  interesting 
tomb  is  in  the  led  transept,  without 
an  inscription.     It  is  that  of  Cardinal 
F.   Matteo    Acquasparta,   general  of 
the  Franciscans,  mentioned  by  Dante 


Camuccini.     They  represent  the  saint  i  in  the  twelfth  canto  of  the  Paradiso 


assuming  the  habit  of  a  monk,  his 
Preaching,  his  Vision  of  Christ,  his 
Penitence,  his  Death,  and  hb  Glori- 
fication, or  the  other  pictures  in  the 
church  the  most  remarkable  are  the 
Ascension  by  Girolamo  Muziano,  in 
the  6th  chapel  on  the  left,  character- 
ised by  Lansi  as  a  work  **  plena  d' 
artci*'  the  S.  Girolamo  of  Giovanni 


for  the  moderation  with  which  he  ad- 
ministered the  rules  of  his  order.  The 
Ara  Coeli  is  held  in  great  veneration 
by  the  Romans  on  account  of  a  mi* 
raculous  wooden  figure  of  the  infant 
Saviour,  the^^an^mtmo  i9am6ino,  whose 
powers  in  curing  the  sick  have  given 
it  extraordinary  popularity.  The  le- 
gend says  that  it  ^rsA  c^x's«5i  V^^^  ^^ 


d^  Vtifhh  ^  Porgo  San  Scpolcro;\  Fianc\8cwi^\\y\mw\Xo"l«.\x«fc^'>K^^ 


lioltfl!  2f.— *  HOME,— C^wneXeS. 


^liilvd  by  Si,  Luke  while  the  pilgciii 

~^1   *l(eping   over    hti   work,       '[li 

iUh  i»  e»tr™e1y  rich  in  gtnu  Bn< 


mk*  ■  pmwnt  of  ihe  p 


»  rehiiJc  wM  tskcn  fl 


>n  coach  in  which  for 


r  the  iiirrounding  country. 
in   convertwl   on   this   oc 

.  I  kind  of  Msge,  on  whii 
T(B(iritj  u  reprewnted  bj  me 
pollcbOBTd  figure!  at  iarge  as  lil 
EDg1i»h  travrllo  Ihe  An  Co 
pMUli"r  interest  from  ih  com 
with  Gibbon.  It  wa«  in  this  cl 
u  he  himwir  tells  ug.  ■'  on  tlit 
orOolebpr,   I76^,  i 


<t  the  I 


le  Capilul,  *hile 


rebuilt  in   1113  under    PosohtJ  IL, 
And  tnliruly  realored  in  lb'84  I 


wo  sideniiles  diiided  bytwenty-fbor 
Tanite  columns, supposed  to  betoken 
mm  the  ruini  oFthe  temple. 

S.  Bemarda,  in  the  Piazisde'  Ter- 
lini.  a  circular  buildinf(  of  eoiuider- 
bie  interest  u  one  of  the  halli 
emplea  which  stood  at  the  two  f 


ic  Sforaa,  Counten  of  1 


Sanu  Flora,  who  ii 


eian    monastery  which   ehe    (bunded  J 
and    endowed.      It    n    a  remarkable  1 
building  of  the  kind  ;  the  interica'  i*  J 
richly  ornamented  with  stuccoes,  and 
the  effect  of  the  lofty  dome  is  pecu- 
liarly strik'ng.      The  leadwlihwhit" 
this  dome  is  covered  was  found  amon 
(he  ruins  of  ihe  Uulhii. 

S.  BilAarui,  founded  in  the  fiftb  I 
centurj,  and  entirely  remodelled  bj  I 
Urban  VIII.  from  the  design*  of  1 
Bernini,  who  added  the  facade.  T1»  1 
eightcDlumn^separatingthenaTeliroin  f 
the  side  aisles  are  antique.      On  tha    1 


started  to  his  mind."     In  front  of  thu 

those    on    the  right  are  by  Agattino 

the  IS4  steps  of  Grecian  marble  oaid 

da  Corla^a.     The  statue  of  S.  Bibiana 

to  have  belonged  to   the  Temple  of 

at  the  tiigh  altar  is    universally  ad- 

Venus  and   Rome.      Like  the   Santa 

Scsla  at  the    I-ateran,   penitents  fre- 

Bui.       It    is  graceful    and    pure    in 

quenlly  ascend  them  on  their  knees. 

style,  and   forms  a  remarkable  con- 

An inscriplio.1  on  Ihe  lel^  of  the  great 

trast    to    the    tkulaslio    Wste   which 

door  states  that  they  were  constructed 

characterises  bis  later  works.   Beneath 

in  1349,  the  year  of  the  plague,  hv 

Maestro  Lorenao  of  Ihe   Rione  Co- 

of  Oriental  alubosler  IT  feet   in  eir- 

lonna,  the  eipenaes  being  defrayed  by 

Gumferenee,  with  the  head  of  a  leopard 

ill  the  middle :  it  eoolaioa  the  bodlet 

of  8.  Bibiana  and  two  other  sainta.      ■ 

Tiber,  built  on  the  ruins  of  the  cele- 

S,  floBoio,  in  the  Traslevere,  near 

rated  temple  of  ^.sculapius,  noticed 

the    chutph     of    St  Chrysogonus,   a 

amonir  the  Antiijuities,  in  a  ppecoding 

small    but    ancient    church,     which 

J'3^.      The  retici  of  the  saint  were 

secttti  to  hB'ce  escaned  notiee  amidit 

Oroa^ht  here  in  9U5  i  thochurehwM    ttie  roultiwiearf  oVVei  s4i^iw»«"n«3(i      ■ 

L                                                          J 

Papal  States."]    houte  27.  —  rome. — Churchei. 


417 


have  higher  pretensions  in  regard  to 
art.  It  is  remarkable  for  a  tradition 
that  it  is  the  burial-place  of  Rienzi. 

It  appears  to  be  a  mere  tradition,  for 
no  authority  has  been  adduced  in  its 
support,  and  we  have  been  unable  to 
trace  it  to  its  source.     If  we  are  to  rely 
on  the  statement  of  the  very  curious 
Biography  of   Rienzi,  attributed    to 
Tommaso  Fortifiocca,  and  republished 
in  1828  at  Forll,   by  Zeferino  Re,  of 
Cesena,  the  body  of  the  Tribune  was 
burnt   by  the  Jews  in  the  "  Campo 
deir  Austa,'*  supposed  to  be  the  open 
space  surrounding  the  mausoleum  of 
Augustus,  then    the   fortress   of  the 
Colonna  family.     We  are  told  by  the 
same  writer  that  this  proceeding  was 
ordered   by  Giugurta  and   Sciaretta 
Colonna,  that  the  body  was   reduced 
to  dust  and  not  a  fragment  left :  cosi 
quel  corpo  fu  arso,  fu  ridotto  in  polvere, 
e  non  ne  rimase  cica.      On  the  floor 
of  the   church    are    two    sepulchral 
stones  :  on  one  is  a  small  figure  in  the 
civil  costume  of  the   12ih    century, 
with  a  coat  of  arms,  and  the  words 
Niccoh    Vedda ,-  the  other  had  a  fe- 
male figure,    but  the   head  and   the 
inscription  have  been   removed,  with 
the  exception  of  the  words  Ions,  Sme- 
nu8.     The   occurrence   of  the   word 
piccolo  perhaps  gave  rise  to  the  tra- 
dition. 

Cappuccini  (  S.  Maria  della  Conce- 
sione),  built  by  Cardinal  Francesco 
Barberini,  brother  of  Urban  VIII., 
from  the  designs  of  Antonio  Casoni. 
It  is  celebrated  for  the  well-known 
picture  of  the  Archangel  Michael  by 
Guido  (in  the  first  chapel  on  the 
right),  classed  by  I^anzi  among  his 
best  works  in  his  softer  manner. 
Forsyth  calls  it  the  Catholic  Apollo. 
••Like  the  Belvidere   god,**  he  says, 

the  archangel  breathes  that  dignified 
vengeance  which  animates  without 
distorting ;  while  the  very  devil  de- 
rives importance  from  his  august 
adversary,  and  escapes  the  laugh  which 
his  figure  usually  provokes.**  SmoN 
lett*8  criticism  is  not  so  complimen- 
tary :  he  describes  the  archangel  as 
hmviog  **th9  mirs  o€m  French  dancing 


•4 


master.**     The  Lucifer  is  said  to  be  a 
likeness  of  Cardinal    Pamfili,  after- 
wards  Innocent    X.,   who   had   dis- 
pleased Guido  by  his  criticisms.    The 
common  story  tells  us  that  it  is  the 
portrait  of  Urban   VIII. ;    but   the 
fact    that   the    picture   was   painted 
for    Cardinal    Barberini,    the   pope's 
brother,  would   seem   to  throw  dis- 
credit  on  the  statement,  even  if  it 
were  not  established  that  the  satire 
was  directed  against  his  predecessor. 
Innocent  X.     In  the  same  chapel  is 
a  fine  picture,  by  Gherardo  della  Notte, 
of  Christ   in  the  purple  robes,  &c. 
Cardinal   Barberini  is  buried  in  the 
church  :   his  grave  is  marked  by  the 
simple  inscription  on  the  pavement. 
Hie  jacetpulviSf  cinisj  et  nihil.     Over 
the  entrance  door  is  the  cartoon  by 
Francesco  BerettOy  used  in  restoring 
the  Navicella,  which  Giotto  executed 
in   mosaic  under  the  portico  of  St. 
Peter's.      In  the  chapel  opposite  to 
Guido*s  archangel  is  the  conversion  of 
St.  Paul,  one   of  the  best  works  of 
Pietro  da  Cortona,     "  Whoever,**  says 
Lanzi,  "  would  know  to  what  lengths 
he  carried  his  style  in  his  altarpieces 
should  examine  the  conversion  of  St. 
Paul  in   the    Capuchin    Church    at 
Rome,  which  though  placed  opposite 
to  the  St.  Michael  of  Guido,  never- 
theless fails  not  to  excite  the  admira- 
tion of  such  professors  as  are  willing 
to  admit  various  styles  of  beauty  in 
art."     The  Ecstasy  of  St  Francis  by 
Domenichino,  in  the  third  chapel  on 
the  right,  was  painted  gratuitously  for 
the  church.     The  Dead  Christ,  in  the 
third  chapel,  by  his  scl^olar,  Andrea 
Camasseit  is  cited  by  Lanzi  among  his 
creditable  works.      In  another  chapel 
is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Alexander  So- 
bieski,  who  died  in   Rome  in  1714. 
Under  the  church  are  four  low  vaulted 
chambers,  which  constitute  the  cerne* 
tery  of  the  convent.     The  earth  was 
brought  from  Jerusalem.     The  walls 
are  covered  with    bones   and  skulls, 
and   several   skeletons   are  standing 
erect  in  the  robes  of  the  order.  When- 
ever 8  monk  diet^  hft  U  ^mtv^  Vxw  >&\^ 
oldest  grvfe,  fwm  '«^v^^^  ^fiBi%V«iv«»>  vS. 

T  5 


itOUTB  27. — HOME. — Churehei. 


the 

Mt 

accu>*nl«r<-t1i<-n 

thp 

n\  iwcplacle.      i 

(he 

eflt.lh«y.r(ofco 

Dable 


of  ibe  CnncTption,  by  tlie  uimepsintcr, 
now  in  S.  Maria  del  Papoto,  thciMMie 
of  of  Duvid  by  Pietn  Pattlti,  snd  Ihat  of 
Judiih  by  Ltbnu.  Thi*  church  oOD' 
Imiim  Ibe  tomb  of  Count  Alesnn^o 
VerTi,'thew>^11-knawi)  aulhur  of  Uw 
"  Noiti  Itomane."  Ou  the  feadv^of 
&  Cnrlo  Borrumco,  on  the  4lh  No- 
vemlier,  the  pope  perforina  liigh  man 


o  Fontmu,  OBt 


called  from 

tbe  nuiiufkcliiren  of  wooilen  diihes 

I    «bo  t«cd  to  enirj  on  their  iniiie  in 

I  <|ka  Pinna.     Tht  church  «■«  built  in 

I     IS  1 9  from  the  dMigoH  of   Itouti  «nd 

Boris.      It   U   dctlicnted    lo    8.  Caclo 

Borronieo.      The  cupola  in  one  of  th 

bighc«t  in  Rome.and  ><■  cclelmted  fa 

the  Ibur  fnscoea  on  the  pendentUes 

bjiJimmiic/d'no,  reprtsenting  the  T 

din*]  Virtue*.      Behind  the  altar 

fine  half-figtire  of  S.  Carlo,  in  frc 

by  Guido,  lurnietlj  on  tlic  fil^sde  of  in  Ihi^  ui 

the  church.      At  the  high  allar  i;  the   although  itlu&twopDtlicoiioFtirenty. 

imnicnie    pietnre    reprewnting    the  ;roui 

Proceuion    of  S.  Carlo   during   ther-'   ' 

Plague  at  Milan, by  Pittro  da  Corlima, 

■■■  eompoiition,"   aajt  Lanti,  "  vast 

enough  lo  dismay  tlie  boldest  copy- 
ist."    The  death  of  St.  Anna  ia  the 

■nailerpiece  of  .^nrfrdi  SaceSi.      Near 

Ibfa  altar  is  the  taml)  of  Cardintl 

Gerdil  of  PicdmpnC,  the  emineot  me- 

taphysii^ii  and  natural  pbilosopber. 


ofB 

rromini,  built  in 

640.    It 

rth  notice 

ilefly  beCBUU  it  oo 

cupi 

eof  tb« 

([rent  piers 

of  the  dome  of  a 

Peters 

The 

court 

ofth 

adjoining  conTenli. 

prince  royal  of  Sardinia.  He  dii 
HomeinlHOS.  His  "Trexise  oi 
Immortality  ofthe  Soul.'his  "It 
dtietion  lo  the  Study  of  lleligion, 
»  ReflectioDB  on  Education,"  in  o. . 
■itiuii  tu  Bousseau,  snd  "the  Plieno- 
menon  ii  Capillary  Tubes."  slill  bold 
■  high  rank    in  modem  Italian  lite- 

S,  Cork  IB  dc  Cnrao,  afineehuK*. 
■rith  a  heaiy  disproportioned  Iront, 
added  .by  Giobattina  Menicucci  and 


The  ii 

DBve  and  aide  auiles  divided  by  Cc 
rinthisn  pilasters,  is  handsome,  but  i 
bad  laite.  At  the  high  altar  is  tl; 
large  picture  of  S.  Carlo  Borromi 
prwented  by  the  Vir^'in  to  the  Saviou 
ettwmed  one  of  the  be^  varbi  i 
[   Carh  MaraUa.       Tlie  rich  chapel  of 


ji  S.  CttUia,  in  the  Trasteyere  j  built 
-in  the  site  of  the  house  of  SL  Ccalii, 
.lart  of  whleh  is  still  shown.  Ill 
foundaliun  dates  fro 
pontiKcate  of  Urban 
built  by  Paschal  I.  in  021,  ana  eo- 
lircly  restored  in  IT35  by  Cir^Dil 
Doria.  In  the  fore-court  is  m.  fine 
marble  vasi^,  and  on  the  ruht 
oor  is  the  fine  Tomb  of  Adim 
bishop  of  London,  1398.  The  bwjy 
of  Sl  Cecilia  i;  buried  beneath  the  hlgb 

formerly  deposited  trns  stolen  by 
French.  I1ie  recumbent  statue  of  St. 
Cecilia  by  Strfino  Maderna  a  otM-or 
the  most  eipres^ive  and  beaotiftd 
sculptures  which  the  ITth  century  pro* 
duced.  It  represents  the  dead  bo^ 
of  the  saint  in  lier  grave- clothes,  itt 
the  precise  attitude   m  which 


ifier 


1    this 


I  interesting  ohurches  i 


V  right  transept  has  a 


Ibe  Church  tells  u 


Pcg^l  StcUes."]    ro ute  27.  —  hom  e.  —  Churches, 


419 


fellow- labourer  of  St  Paul,  and  the 
third  bishop  of  Rome :  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  founded  by  Con- 
ttantine.  In  772  it  was  restored  by 
Adrian  I.;  the  choir  was  repaired 
about  A. D.  8S0  by  John  VII J.;  the 
mosaics  of  the  tribune  were  added  in 
the  11th  century;  and  Clement  XL 
(  Albani),  in  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century,  repaired  and  restored  the 
whole  edifice  in  its  present  form.  In 
front  is  a  quadriporticus,  surrounding 
a  court  58  feet  long  by  48  feet  broad, 
entered  by  a  small  portico,  which  be- 
longs probably  to  the  8th  century. 
The  interior  consists  of  a  nave,  sepa- 
rated from  the  two  side  aisles  by  six- 
teeu  columns  of  difierent  marbles  and 
sizes,  evidently  taken  from  some  an- 
cient building.  In  front  of  the  altar 
is  the  marble  inclosure  of  the  choir, 
bearing  the  monogram  of  John,  sup- 
posed to  be  Pope  John  VIII.,  and 
therefore  as  old  as  the  9th  century. 
At  the  sides  are  the  ambone%  or  marble 
pulpits,  from  which,  as  we  have  stated 
in  the  account  of  the  Basilica  of  S. 
Lorenzo,  the  epistle  and  the  gospel 
were  read.  Behind  this  are  the  absis 
or  tribune,  or  Presbyterium,  contain- 
ing the  ancient  altar,  and  the  epis- 
copal seat,  raised  on  a  platform,  which 
is  divided  from  the  rest  of  the  church 
by  two  gates,  llie  pavement  is  tes- 
selated,  and  many  parts  of  the  am- 
bones  and  altar  are  covered  with 
mosaics.  The  vault  of  the  tribune  is 
also  covered  with  mosaics  of  the  11th 
century.  The  CaptUa  deUa  Passione, 
on  the  left  of  the  entrance,  contains 
the  interesting  frescoes  by  MasacciOf 
representing  the  Crucifixion  of  the 
Saviour,  and  the  History  of  St.  Cle- 
ment and  St.  Catherine,  which  have 
been  so  often  studied  in  reference  lo 
the  history  of  art.  They  have  in 
part  suffered  much  from  restorations. 
The  chief  subjects  are  as  follows: 
the  Annunciation  and  St.  Christopher; 
St  Catherine  forced  to  idolatry ;  her 
Instruction  of  the  daughter  of  King 
Maxirailtao  in  prison ;  her  Death ; 
her  -Dispute  with  the  Alexandrian 
Doctojv;  the  Miracle  of  her  Deliver* 


ance ;  her  Martyrdom.  Opposite 
are  the  History  of  St  Clement  and 
the  Crucifixion.  In  the  right  aisle, 
near  the  high  altar,  is  the  tomb  of 
Cardinal  Rovarella,  an  interesting 
work  of  the  15th  century,  bearing 
the  date  of  1476.  Among  its  bas- 
reliefs  the  thyrsus  and  other  baccha- 
nalian emblems  used  as  symbols  by 
the  early  Christians  are  conspicuous. 
The  adjoining  convent  belongs  to  the 
Irish  Domenicans. 

S.  Costanza,  near  the  church  of  S. 
Agnese,  beyond  the  Porta  Pia,  erro- 
neously considered  by  the  older  anti- 
quaries to  be  a  temple  of  Bacchus. 
It  was  built  by  Constantine  as  a  bap- 
tisteryf  in  which  the  two  Constantias, 
his  sister  and  daughter,  are  supposed 
to  have  been  baptized.  The  building 
is  circular,  73  feet  in  diameter,  with 
a  peristyle  of  twenty-four  coupled 
granite  columns  supporting  a  dome. 
The  vault  is  covered  with  mosaics 
with  vine-leaves  and  bunches  of  grapes, 
which  gave  rise  to  the  idea  that  it 
was  a  temple  of  Bacchus.  But  inde- 
pendently of  the  evidence  afforded  by 
the  style  of  architecture  and  the  con- 
struction of  the  building,  which  be« 
long  evidently  to  the  decline  of  art, 
the  porphyry  sarcophagus  of  the  family 
of  Constaittine,  which  was  removed 
from  its  position  in  this  church  to  the 
museum  of  the  Vatican  by  Pius  VI.,  is 
covered  with  bacchanalian  symbols  of 
the  same  kind,  and  they  are  now  well 
known  to  have  been  frequently  adopted 
as  emblems  by  the  early  Christian^ 
It  has  been  supposed  by  some  authori- 
ties that  the  columns  were  taken  from 
some  ancient  temple.  The  capitals  are 
richly  worked,  and  were  thought  by 
Desgodetz  worthy  of  being  illustrated 
in  his  great  work  on  the  antiquities  of 
Rome,  in  which  a  plan  and  section  of 
the  building  may  be  seen.  It  was 
consecrated  as  a  church  by  Alexander 
IV.,  in  the  ISth  century,  and  dedi- 
cated to  St  Constantia,  whose  body 
is  interred,  with  the  relics  of  other 
saints,  under  the  altar  in  the  centre 
of  the  edifice.  Betweft!\  i\a\%  ^Vc«dx^3cw 
and  S,  A^«ift  Vk  asi  c^jVQ;u%\sk5^v»K«»x 


noirra  97.  —  iiowe.  — ^Hwfer. 


lolled  the  Illpiioilromc 
ne.  It  la  now  provvd  I 
u  to  have  Imn  a  Chiiati 

|[j.  DwfMD  e  Damiano.  in  the  Roman 

«  of  the  IVmple  of  Remiis, 

1  notiMil  u niter  llial  head  in  the 

il  dncriptioD  of  the  Aniiquitiei 

w  B.  Fitmetica  Rmmaui,  cloie  to  the 
BMilim  of  Conslantine,  pirtlv  built 
on  the  <i«-  of  ihe  Templi:  of  Venus 
■nd  Koine.  inH  reitored  by  Paul  V. 
from  Iho  deii^i  of  Carlo  Lomburdl 
ll  contains  some  ouriout  mosaics  nf 
Ihe  9th  century;  the  lomb  of  St. 
Franeesca,  eoTered  with  rich  marbk-s 
■nd  bronto.  by  Bmini,  and  Ihc 
tombof  Gregory  XI.,  erected  iii  laH-l 
by  ihe  Kuate  and  people,  fi-om  tbe 
designs  of  Pitlrn  Fa'Ja  OHeieri,  with 
a  bas-relief  rcpresctitiiiR  ibe  return  of 
th»  Holy  Sec  la  Romcarter  an  abscnee 
of  Bcventy-tva  yesra  at  Aiignon. 
Under  the  rcslibu'la  is  Ihe  mBiisoleum 
of  Antonio  Rido  of  Hadua,  gover- 
aor  oFSt,  Angelo  in  tbe  I51b  century: 
iu  sculptures  give  a  gond  oiample 
of  Ihe  miiilary  coat  lime  of  the  period. 
At  the  feslival  of  S.  Fianccaca  Ko- 
mana,  on  (he  gih  Miirch,  high  man 
is  celebruted  in  this  church  in  the 
presence  of  the  cnllege  of  cardiimbi. 

5.  Fraicetco  a  Ripa,  founded  in 
the  l!lih  century  in  honour  of  St. 
Francii  of  AwUi,  who  lived  in  Ihe 
convent  and  hoipilal  adjoining,  dur- 
ing his  visits  to  Rome.  The  present 
church  and  convent  were  rebuilt  by 
Cardinal  Lalaro  Pallavicini,  from  tbe 
designs  of  Matleo  Rosai.  The  church 
contains  some  works  of  art.  among 
i^hich  are  the  Virgin  and  Child  with 
St.  Anne,  one  of  the  best  works  of 
Badceio  ;  a  Dead  Chrii-t,  by  /iKnibak 
Caraeei/  and  the  ncumbeni  statue  of 
the  blessed  Luigi  Albcrtoni,  by  Ber- 
nini. In  the  omvent  Ihe  apartments 
occupied    by    61.    Francia    are    atill 

y.  Gad,  the  church  of  the  Jesuits,  one 
oFlhe  richest  churches  of  Rome,  he- 
gan  in  1575  by  Curdinal  AliHsaudi 


esc.  from  the  dcsigna  of  Pigtuia.. 
'I1ic  bi^dv  and  cupula  were  added  by 
■"'     inno  della  I'oi 


inrbles 


if  the  I 


'Died  In  (he  most  gorgeoua 
He  frescoes  of  the  cupola, 
ind  roof  are  by  Bariaio,  ai  ' 
[lered  his  liest  worki.  Tl 
paintings  at  the  diHerent  altars  are  mH 
of  the  first  Ela'a.  Over  tiie  higb  altar, 
designed  by  Giseoino  ilella  Porta,  hu 
been  lately  placed  a  painting,  the 
Sporaliiio,  by  the  Cav.  CapalH.  Hw 
Death  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  in  ~ 
ripht  transept,  is  by  Carlo  3^a 
The  chapel  of  6.  Ignaiiu,  in  the  left 
transept,  is  one  of  Ihe  richest  in  Boi 
It  was  designed  by  the  celebratul 
Padre  Pozii,  and  is  brilliaully  de 
rated  with  Upis  laauli  and  verde  ao. 
liquP.  The  marble  group  of  lbs 
Trinity  is  by  Bernardinu  Ludovki: 
theglulie  beluw  the  Almighty  it  laid 
to  be  the  lortceal  moss  of  lapis  laniU 
known.  The  allarpircc  of  St.  Igiut- 
tius  is  by  Padri  Fozxi.  Behind  tbi) 
picture  is  thesiWersutueof  thesH 
His  body  lies  beneath  Ihe  altar  in 
urn  of  broiiie  gilt,  adorned  with  p 
cious  atones.  I'he  two  allegorieal 
marble  grau|>s  nl  the  sides  of  Ihe  altaf, 
representing  Christianity  embraced 
by  the  barbarous  nations,  and  tbe 
Triumph  of  Religion  over  Ileresyv 
are  fantastic  works  of  the  French 
sculptiiT),  Theodon  and  Lt  Grm.  By 
the  side  of  the  high  altar  is  the  tomb 
of  Cardinal  BelLirmin,  the  cckbrated 
cantiorersialist  of  the  Roman  cburdi. 
It  was  designed  by  Rainaldi ;  tbe  ttro 
figures  of  Religion  and  Wisdom  aic 
by  BrrHiai.  There  are  two  great 
ceremonies  at  this  church.  TTie  first, 
in  honour  of  St.  Iguatius,  takes  pi 
at  hia  festital,  on  tbe  31st  July.  Tb« 
second  and  most  important  occurs  on 
the  last  day  of  (he  year,  when  a 
lemn  Te  Dcunt  ia  Bung  in  the  presence 
of  all  the  cardinals,  inngislrates.  and 
public  bodies  of  Rome, 

S.  Giorgio  IK  Felabro,  the  only  church 
in  Rome  dedicated  to  tbe  tutelary  saint 
1  of  England.  It  is  of  high  antiquity, 
i>  ttie  toimifctvott  4a\\w^  ^voni  x'oil  Wa 


Papal  Slates,"]    route  27. — Rome.  —  Churches. 

y 

century.  It  was  rebuilt  in  the  time  of 
Gregory  the  Great,  and  again  in  the 
8th  century  under  Pope  S.  Zacha- 
rias.  In  the  ISth  century  it  was 
restored  by  the  prior  Stefano,  who 
added  the  portico,  as  we  see  by  an  in- 
scription still  legible.  The  interior 
has  sixteen  columns  of  different  ma- 
terials and  styles,  taken  from  the  ruins 
of  ancient  edifices.  The  head  of  St. 
George  wps  deposited  here  by  Pope 
S.  Zacharias.  The  high  altar  and 
tabernacle  are  probably  of  the  12th 
century.  The  frescoes  in  the  tribune 
are  attributed  to  Giotto,  but  they  have 
suffered  greatly  from  the  carelessness 
of  restorers,  lliis  church  has  an  his- 
torical interest  in  connexion  with 
Kienzi  which  entitles  it  to  respect, 
and  gives  it  strong  claims  upon  the 
protection  of  the  Roman  antiquaries. 
On  the  first  day  of  Lent,  1347,  Rienzi 
affixed  to  its  door  his  celebrated  notice 
announcing  the  speedy  return  of  the 


421 


S.  Giovanni  de*  Fiorentini,  built  by 
the  Florentines  in  the  form  of  a  basi- 
lica in  1588,  from  the  designs  of 
Giacomo  della  Porta.  The  fine  fa9ade 
was  added  by  Clement  XII.,  from  the 
designs  of  Alessandro  Galilei  (1725). 
The  chapel  of  S.  Girolamo  contains 
an  altarpiece  representing  Sf.  Jeron^e 
praying  before  a  crucifix,  by  Santi  di 
Tito.  On  one  of  the  side  walls  is  a 
fine  picture  of  St.  Jerome  writing,  by 
Cigoli :  it  has  all  the  design  and  ex- 
pression of  Raphael,  with  the  colour 
and  force  of  Titian.  In  the  right 
transept  is  the  celebrated  picture  by 
Sahator  Rota,  representing  S.  Cosimo 
and  S.  Damiano  condenmed  to  the 
flames,  described  by  Lanzi  among  the 
works  of  this  master  which  are  well 
conceived  and  of  powerful  effect.  The 
chapel  of  the  Crucifix  was  painted  by 
Lanfranco, 

S.  Giovanni  Crysogono,  in  the  Traste- 
vere,  founded  by  Constantine,  and  re- 


Good  £state  :  —  In  breve  tempo  li  Ro-  built  in  1628  by  Cardinal  Borghese, 
mani  tomeranno  al  loro  antico  buono  from  the  designs  of  Giobattista  Soria. 
ttato.  Notwithstanding  this,  and  al-  The  twenty-two  granite  columns  of 
though  it  gives  title  to  a  cardinal,  the  interior  were  evidently  taken  from 
the  church  would  have  perished  a  |  some  ancient  building.  The  picture 
few  years  ago,  if  the  Congregation  of  .of  Sf.  Chrysogonus  transported  to 
S.  Maria  del  Pianto  had  not  inter-  heaven,  by  Gucrcino,  now  in  England, 
posed    and    obtained    a   grant   of  it   was  formerly  in  this  church.     It  con- 


from  Pius  VII.  as  their  private  ora- 
tory. 

S.  Giovanni  DecoUatOy  belonging  to 
the  Confraternita  della  Misericordia, 
whose  office  it  is  to  administer  conso- 
lation to  condemned  criminals,  who 
are  buried  within  the  precincts  of  the 
church.  It  has  some  remarkable 
paintings,  among  which  the  most  in- 
teresting is  the  head  of  St.  John  the 
Baptist,  by  Giorgio  Fasari,  cited  by 
Lanzi  among  those  which  are  sufficient 
to  establish  his  reputation,  and  praised 
by  the  same  authority  for  **  the  exqui- 
site perspective  by  which  it  is  set  offi'* 
The  t)ther  pictures  are  the  birth  of 
John  the  Baptist,  by  Jacopo  del  Zuectty 
his  able  pupil ;  the  fine  figures  at  the 
last  altar,  by  Jacopino  del  ContCt  a 
scholar  of  Andrea  del  Sarto  ;  and  an 
altarpiacc  by  Francesco  Sahiati,  in  the 
mdjonuDg  ontory. 


tains  a  copy  of  it,  and  a  Madonna  by 
Cav.  d'Arpino.  The  church  is  remark- 
able for  several  tombs  of  Corsican  fa- 
milies :  some  well-known  names,  and 
among  them  that  of  Pozzo  di  Borgo, 
may  be  recognised. 

S.  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  the  church  of 
the  Passionist  Convent  on  the  Caelian, 
well  known  by  the  solitary  palm-tree 
standmg  in  the  convent  garden.  It 
was  built  by  Pammachus,  a  friend  of 
St.  Jerome,  on  the  site  of  the  house 
occupied  by  the  titular  saints  who 
were  officers  in  the  court  of  Constantia, 
and  were  put  to  death  by  Julian  the 
Apostate.  It  has  a  portico  of  eight 
granite  columns,  and  twenty-eight 
ancient  columns  of  marble  in  the  nave. 
The  pavement  is  one  of  the  best  ex* 
amples  of  the  t^s  Alexandrinum, 
The  vault  of  the  tribune  is  ^siwi^  V>.-<) 


m 


422 


:o&tkST. — ROMK.  —  CTwicAm; 


Mght 


Id  U>e  fciurUi  tih*pe\ 

mn  ■lUrpWce  by  Mir™  armjiai.     i>e- 

UMlli  ilii«  church  art  tlie  renmins  uf 

■be    VWuium,    dncribcit    under    the 

Antiquili«(p.aTl.> 

S.  Ci<'-W  ^''  FaUgnaml,  over  (lie 
tUmi:rt<rK  Prboni,  i»  remarksbk-  for 
■  Nktiiity,  the  Gnt  *orL  wliicli  CVirlo 
^oTtUta    ciliibiled    in   public.       'tlie 


»  Cp.  3 


r.). 


S.  GHjforioioaXbe  Cclian,  founded 
ID  Ihe  TLb  century  on  the  site  of 
Ihe  funilT  mnntion  of  Gr^oty  tlie 
UrCBt,  wlio  wu  dmcended  fram  the 
noliU  haute  of  Anlcia.  The  portico 
VM  wlded  ill  1G33  by  Cardinal  Scipiu 
DorEhme,  from  the  dmigna  of  Sori> ; 
and  the  church  vu  rebuilt  in  1T»4 
from  the  designs  of  Franceaca  Ferrari. 
The  interior  li*9  sixteen  Bne  culumnt 
of  Egyptian  frranile,  taken  from  loine 
ancient  building.  In  the  oliapel  of 
the  aaint  are  aomo  ttulplutea  of  the 
l£th  century,  illuatntinfc  the  hia- 
tor7  of  hu  life.  'We  Capella  Saliiati 
luu  ■  finely  coloured  picture  of  " 
Gregurj.by 


fine  predelia  of  (he  bc 


alofPt 


!iugini). 


In  0.  dvlacbed  cliapel  on  the  oppo^ 
tide  is  ■  very  line  Ancona,  with  b 
TSlieia  of  the  ISth  century.      In  fri 
of    the    chuTcli    ore    three   detacl 
chapels  built  by  Sl  Gregory  hinuelt 
and  restored  by    Cardinal    Baroniua. 
The    ArM,    dedicated    lo    St.    SiJeia, 
tnotber  of  St.  Gregory  the  Crest,  bai 
a  atatue  of  the  saint  by  Nicoolo  Cor- 
dlati,  pupil  of  Michael  Angelo,  and  a 
firesea   on   the   Toof  representing  the 
Almightyvith  AngelE,by  fi'Hiifu.    The 

taina  the  celebrated  frescoes  painted 
aa  riial  perrormaiiccs  by  Cuido  and 
Domenicbino.  Tlie  St.  Andrew  ador- 
ing the  Cross  as  he  is  led  to  Enecu- 
lion  !■  by  GhIA};  the  Flagellation  ol 
Ihe  Saint  is  by  Domtnichina.     Among 


of  Ann 


t  Ihe  li 


self  to  anger,  and  vas  surprised  in 

set  of  Tioieot  gesticulutioD  by  An- 

le    Cocacci,    who   was    to     mneh 

uk  with  the  spectncle,  that  lie  em- 

ed  him,  and  said,  "  DometiichiiM, 

av  I  must  take  a  lesson  from  you^" 

luvel,  sayt  Lnnii,  and  at  the  aoma 

:  so  just  and  natural,  did  it  appeal 

im  llist  the  painter,  like  the  orar 

should  [eel  withm  himself  all  that 

undertakes  to  represent  to  otheta. 

i«  a  common  tale,"  he  says,  "that 

an  old  woman  once  stood  a  long  while 

ainining      Douienichino'a     pictDrt^ 

mnientinjt  upon  it  part  by  part,  and 

plaining  it  to  a  boy  whom  she  hap- 

ned    lu   have   with    her;  and   that 

rning  afterwards  to  Cuido'i  paint- 

■  w  of  it,  and 


The 


iiird  0 


CBled  to  5.  fi.irt>d< 
St.  Gregory  by  P^iccald  CortHm,  begiin> 
it  ia  said,  by  IVIlcliael  Anj^li 
the  middle  of  '  '  .  '  '  . 
Ihe  marble  (able  on  which  St.  Gregory 
fed  every  morning  twelve  poor  pil- 
grims. In  the  cliiircb  ia  interred  the 
celebrated  Itnpcria,  the  Aspasia  of  the 
court  of  Leo  X.,  called  by  Geraniioa 
Negri    the     "cattij(iana    nobile    di 

vellen,—  that  of  Sir  Edwaid  Carne 
of  Glamorganshire,  doctor  of  civil  lav 
of  the  Unitersity  uf  Oitiird,  who  was 
united  with  Cranmcr  in  1530  in  the 
celebrated  commission  appointed  to 
obtain  the  opinion  of  the  foreign  uni- 
versities respecting  the  divorce.  He 
was  ambassador  lo  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.,  by  whom  he  was  knighted. 
He  afterwards  became  ambassador  to 
Ihe  Dourt  of  llome  ;  mi  Blbbop  Bui- 
net,  in  his  History  of  the  Reformation, 
has  published  several  of  his  despatches. 
On  the  suppreBsion  of  the  English 
embassy  by  Eliinbetb,  be  was  recalled, 
but  Paul  IV.  detained  him  at  Rome, 
where  he  died  in  I5el.  The  late 
pope  was  for  many  years  the  abbot  of 
\  tills  CQineM,Dn&£^^&wh\a  unbeU 


Papal  States.y  route  Si7. —  rome. — Churches. 


423 


lish  the  church  and  the    adjoining 
'     chapels.     The  terrace  of  the  church 
commands  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
views  of  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars. 
V*      S,    Ignaziot    the     church    of     the 
Jesuits*  college,  with  its  massive  front 
by  Algardi,  is  rich  in  elaborate  deco- 
rations.    Its  magnificence  is  not  in 
tbe  best  taste,  but  is  nevertheless  im- 
posing from  its  excessive  brilliancy. 
The  paintings  of  the  roof  and  tribune 
are  by  I\idre  Pozzi,  and  are  remark- 
able for  their  perspective.    The  Lan- 
celotti  chapel  contains  the    tomb  of 
S.  Lodovico    Gonzaga,   with  a  bas- 
relief  representing  the  Apotheosis  of 
the  saint,  by  Le  Gros.     It  is  much 
admired  for  its  mechanical  execution, 
•but  is  full  of  faults  in  composition 
and  taste.     Near  the  side  door  is  the 
tomb  of  Gregory  XV.,  by  the  same 
sculptor. 

St,  Isidore,  founded  in  1622,  the 
church  of  the  Irish  convent,  has  an 
altarpiece  of  St.  Isidore  by  Andrea 
Sacehi.  The  convent  is  remarkable 
as  having  produced  some  distin- 
guished Irish  scholars,  among  whom 
may  be  mentioned  Luke  Wadding, 
the  censor  of  the  Inquisition,  cele* 
brated  for  his  edition  of  the  **  Opus- 
culorum  S.  Francisci.'*  Antw.  1623  ; 
for  his  Treatise  **  de  Ilebraicae  Lin- 
guae Orif^ine ; "  for  his  learned  his- 
tory of  the  Franciscans,  **  Annales 
Minorum,**  and  other  works  of  piety 
and  erudition.  lie  is  buried  in  this 
church.  It  may  interest  Irish  tra- 
vellers to  know  that  L»rd  Cloncurry 
has  recently  commissioned  Mr.  Hogan 
to  erect  in  this  church  a  classical 
memorial  over  the  grave  of  the 
daughter  of  John  Phil  pott  Curran, 
for  whose  hand  his  lordship,  when  the 
Hon.  Mr.  Lawless,  in  1798,  was  an 
unsuccessful  suitor. 

S.  Lorenzo  in  Datnoio,  close  to  the 
magnificent  Palace  of  the  Cancelleria, 
built  by  Cardinal  Riario,  nephew  of 
Stxtus  IV.,  from  the  designs  of  Bra- 
mante.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  tomb 
of  Che  accomplished  scholar  and  poet 
Annibale  Caro,  who  died  here  in 
^66.    His  bust  mm  b/  JJcno.     The 


statue  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo  in  the 
sacristy  is  by  Siefano  Mademo. 
X  S.  Lorenzo  in  Lucina,  founded  by 
Sixtus  IV.  in  the  beginning  of  the 
5th  century,  and  restored  in  its  pre- 
sent form  by  Paul  V.  in  1606,  from 
the  designs  of  Cosmo  da  Bergamo. 
At  the  high  altar,  which  was  designed 
by  Rainaldi,  is  the  celebrated  Cruci- 
fixion by  Guido.  The  chapel  of  S. 
Francesco  has  a  painting  by  Marco 
Benefial.  This  church  contains  the 
tomb  of  Poussin,  designed  by  Le- 
moine,  and  executed  by  French  artists, 
at  the  suggestion  and  partly  at  the 
cost  of  Chateaubriand,  while  French 
ambassador  at  Rome :  the  bas-relief 
represents  the  well-known  Jbindscape 
of  the  Arcadia. 

jS*.  Lucoy  one  of  the  most  ancient 
churches  in  Rome,  rebuilt  in  the 
ISth  century  by  Alexander  IV.,  and 
dedicated    to     Santa    Martina.      In 

1588  Sixtus  V.  gave  it  to  the  Aca- 
demy of  Painters,  who  rebuilt  it  in  the 
pontificate  of  Urban  VIII.,  and  de- 
dicated it  to  St.  Luke,  their  patron 
saint.  The  designs  for  this  new 
church  were  furnished  by  Pietro  da 
CortonOf  who  was  so  much  pleased 
with  his  work  that  he  called  it  his 
daughter.  The  Assumption,  by  £*«- 
bastiano  Conea,  is  praised  by  Lanri  as  a 
work  of  great  merit.  The  subter- 
ranean church  containing  the  tomb  of 
S.  Martina,  is  remarkable  for  its  flat 
roof,  and  for  the  chapel  erected  by 
Pietro  da  Cortoha  at  his  own  cost. 
This  artist  was  a  liberal  benefactor  by 
legacy  to  this  church ;  he  endowed 
it  with  his  whole  fortune,  amounting 
to  100,000  scudi.  'Vhe  Academy  ad- 
joining  is  described  under  its  proper 
bead. 

^'  S.  Luigi  de*  Francesi,  founded  by 
Catherine  de'  Medici,  and   built   in 

1589  by  the  King  of  France,  from  tbe 
designs  of  Giacomo  della  Porta.  Tbe 
second  chapel  on  the  right  contains 
two  brilliant  frescoes  by  Domenidkmos 
they  represent  the  angel  offering  the 
crowns  to  S.  Cecilia  and  her  husband 
Sw  Valerian ;  Saint  Cecilia  expressing 

I  hec  contem^^X  fox  ^«  \^<(^\\  \Mst  ^>a» 


\ 


Ro'tJtB  ^. — Boire.  —  CTtrtv^a. ' 


lllllll    or    hvr    clulllCl     BIDDII^'    Iho 

her    DEiitli    and    Apulliiv^it. 

TbHc'inicmiing  works,  tlioughBDme- 

wlial  ili«lrie*ll]r  treited.are  reiniirk- 

■blc  Diamplci  uf  Doinenichino'9  pecu- 

IbrMjU  of  composition  miiil  colour- 

Tht  fine  copy  of  RAphoel'ti  St. 

■  ji  bjr  Gaiiio.      In  the  chapel 

Hatlhxr  are  Ihree  picture!,  re- 

_  iting  tha   Gslling  uf  the  Saint, 

bii  Martyrdom,  by  M.  Ani/th  Cara- 

jia,  (Amerighi)    Tlie  pHiniingson 

TDoF,  Bnd  the  Prophcii  on  the  lidea, 

by  Can.  it ArjHna.     The  AB™mp- 


Iialy,  ihe  m 
liberal  reformer  of  ihe  pnpnl  admi- 
ni>lrBlii>n,  whoM  dexlh  is  itill  iih 
volved  in  that  painfUl  mystery  vbkll 
strenutheni  the  popular  impresilon 
that  it  wa»  produced  by  potaon.  The 
tomb  is  hf  Ramaldi,  and  is  much  ad- 
mired »«  a  specimen  of  modern  artJ 
Anoiber  tomb  of  some  interest  iatbat 
of  Pierre  Gilles,  the  French  trsrellnr 
and  writer  un  Constantinople  and  Mis 
Bosphorus,  vlio  died  here  in  I55& 
The  ceremony  of  the  Eialtstion  ti 
Ihe  Cross  lakes  place  in  this  ehuroh 
of  the  whule  college 


best  works  o(  FraMctiea  Banana.  In  |  of  curdiniiU,  on  Ihe  ]  4th  September. 
the  sacriBly  a  a  sioall  picture  of  llie ,  S.  Mam,  a  *err  elegant  and  to- 
Virgin,  attributed  to  Corrrpgit.  This  i  tcrestlng  little  church,  built  on  the 
church  contains  many  tombs  of  emi.  plan  of  an  ancient  bsiiliea,  iritbtn- 
nent  Frenchmen,  including  thow  of  the  precincts  of  the  Palace  of  Veniee, 
Cardinnl  de  Bernis  by  Laboureur; '  Tt  was  founded  b;  Pope  S.  Marco  in 
Cardinal  de  la  Grange  d'Arquien.  I  3.17,  and  dedicated  to  the  Kvangdlsl. 
fither-in-luwof  Sohinki.whodiedat'  It  was  rebuilt  in  B33  by  Gregory  IV„ 
theegeofl05i  Cirdinald'Osaiit.am- |  who  covered  the  interior  with  mo- 
baMadorof  Henry  IV. ;  and  Seroui  laici.  In  UGH  Paul  IT.,  after  tha 
d'Agincourl,  the  celebrated  orchiBota-' construction  of  the  Palace,  entirdy 
||;ist  and  writer  on  Italian  art.  Not  rebuilt  the  church  in  its  preaeat 
the  Iciut  interesting  is  thai  of  Pau-  form,  with  the  exception  of  Ihe  tri- 
line  de  Muntmnrin,  erected  by  Cha-  bune.  which  is  still  standing  with  the 
teaubriand.  mosaics  of    the   9th   century.       The 

S.  MarctUo,  the  church  of  the  Ser.  portico  was  (hen  added,  from  the  de- 
TiLEB  in  Ihe  Coiso,  a  very  ancient  signs  of  Giuliano  da  M^*ano.  Tha 
cliutch,  dating  as  fsr  back  as  the  interior  has  a  nave  and  two  aisles  >e- 
4lh  century,  when  it  gave  title  lo  parated  by  twenty  columns  uf  jasper, 
a  cardinaL  It  was  rebuilt  in  1519  and  a  few  paintings.  The  most  rfc 
(rumlhedesignsarSansavino,  with  the  markable  are  (at  the  lirstallar  on  the 
ciceplion  of  the  fumade,  which  wa&  righOtheltesurrection.byititmaaiB- 
added  by  Carlo  Fontana  in  the  worst  bbiu,  erroneously  attributed  lo  1111. 
possible  taste.  The  chopel  of  ihe  loretto;  Ihe  'St.  Mark  the  Bvan^ 
Crucifii  (the  siith  on  the  right,}  is  gelist,  and  the  St.  Mark  the  Pope,  by 

■■      "  ■  itings  by    tlie  School  of  ftrujiBU    (at  Ihe    last 

representing    the  alur  on  the  right) 


Creation  t 


infaul 


if  the;  were 
alive  :  a  work  deseriedly  held  in  the 
highest  repute."  The  St.  Mark  and 
the  St.  John  are  by  the  same  painter, 
with  the  eiceptian  of  the  hand  and 
bare  arm,  whiuh  were  finished  by 
Danalt  da  VoUrmt.  In  thisohapel  is 
the  tomb  of  the  illustrious  Cardinal 
Consahi,  minister  of  Pius  VII.,  one  ™  ^.  .=. 
I'fl/ie  wast  enlighteaed  itatesmen  or^.   S.  Mni 


Nativity  of 
Virgin,  by""  11  'S-Augntu  (Gio. 
Francesco  Grimaldi);  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi,  by  Carta  Maralta  (third 
on  the  right);  the  Virpn  and  Child 
and  S.  Martina,  by  Giro  Fmi  (third 
on  the  lejt).  The  monument  of  Lio- 
nardo  Fesaro  of  Venice  is  by  Oinava. 
On  the  Festival  of  St.  Mark,  April 
25th,  there  Is  a  solemn  procession  oroll 
the  clergy  of  Rome  fix)m  Ibis  church 


-Tn\s  ■ 


Papal  Seates.2    route  27.  —  bome. — Churches. 


425 


niiicent  church  occupies  the  Pinaco-  [recorded  that  Clement  XIV.  was  a 
thek  or  the  great  hall  of  the  Baths  of  great  admirer  of  this  statue  :  "  It 
Diocletian,  which  was  altered  by  |  would  speak/*  he  said,  **  if  the  rule  of 
Michael  Angelo  for  the  purposes  of 
Christian  worship  during  the  pontifi- 
cate of  Pius  IV.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  imposing  churches  in  Rome, 
and  is  frequently  adduced  to  prove 
how  much  St.  Peter's  has  suffered  by 
the  abandonment  of  the  original  plan 
of  a  Greek  cross.  The  arrangement 
of  the  ancient  baths  is  described  in  a 
previous  page,  under  the  head  of 
**  Antiquities."  'Hie  great  hall  was 
converted  by  Michael  Angelo  into  a 
Greek  cross  by  the  addition  of  a 
wing:  Vanvitelli  in  1740  reduced  the 
church  to  its  present  form  by  adopt- 
ing the  circular  aula  of  the  baths  as  a 
vestibule,  and  enlarging  the  choir  on 


his  order  did  not  prescribe  silence. 
The  hall,  now  forming  the  transept 
of  the  church,  is  297^  feet  long,  91  feet 
wide,  and  84  feet  high :  the  length  of 
the  present  nave  from  the  entrance  to 
tl^e  high  altar  is  dS6  feet.  The  gra- 
nite columns  are  of  one  piece,  45  feet 
high  and  16  feet  in  circumference. 
The  antique  capitals,  four  Corinthian 
and  four  Composite,  are  of  white 
marble.  The  entablature  is  also  an- 
tique, but  overladen.  Among  the 
works  of  art  preserved  here  is  the  fine 
fresco  of  S.  Sebastian  by  Domen^chino, 
22  feet  high,  originally  painted  on  the 
walls  of  St.  Peter's,  and  removed  with 
consummate  skill  by  the  famous  en- 
the  opposite  side.  The  hall,  which  gineer  and  architect  Zabaglia.  Op- 
Michael  Angelo  had  preserved  as  apposite,  is  the  Baptism  of  the  Saviour 
nave,  was  thus  converted  into  a  tran-  I  by  Carlo  Maratia,  mentioned  by  Lanzi 
sept;  but  the  alteration,  although  it  as  one  of  the  largest  works  he 
gave  greater  room  to  the  fabric,  was  '  ever  painted  ;  the  Death  of  Ananiad 
not  a  happy  one.     On  account  of  the  and  Sapphira  is  by  Cristofano  R(mcaUi; 


dampness  of  the  ground  Michael  An- 
gelo was  obliged  to  raise  the  pave- 
ment about  8  feet,  so  that  the  bases 


the  Fall  of  Siteon  Magus,  by  Pompeo 
Battonif  is  one  of  the  finest  works 
produced  during  the   last    century. 


of  the  original  columns  remain  ne- I  Most  of  the  altarpieces  were  painted 
cessarily  buried.  Of  the  sixteen  co-  |  for  St.  Peter's,  and  were  superseded 
lumns  of  the  church  eight  only  are  by  mosaic  copies,  which  have  been 
antique:  these  are  of  Oriental  granite, '  already  noticed  (p.  390.).     On   the 


with  attached  bases  of  while  marble. 
The  others  are  of  brick,  stuccoed  in 


pavement  is   the  meridian  traced  by 
Bianchini  in  1701,  with  the  assistance 


imitation  of  granite,  and  were  added   of  Maraldi,  pupil  of  the  famous  astro- 


by  Vanvitelli.  In  the  vestibule  are 
the  tombs  of  Sal vator  Rosa;  of  Carlo 
Maratta ;  of  Cardinal  Parisio,  pro- 
fessor of  jurisprudence  at  Bologna ; 
and  of  Cardinal  Francesco  Alciati,  the 
loarned  chancellor  of  Rome  under 
Pius  IV.,  and  nephew  of  the  cele- 
brated author  of  the  **  Paradoxes  and 
Emblems."  The  tomb  of  Salvator 
Rosa  ( 1 673)  has  an  inscription,  which 
represents  him  as  the  **  Pictorum  sui 
temporis  nulli  secundum,  poetarum 
omnium  temporum  principibus  pa- 
rem  ;  "  a  friendly  eulogy,  which  the 
judgment  of  posterity  has  not  con- 
firmed. At  the  entrance  of  the  great 
hall  is  the  noble  statue  of  S.  Bruno,  by 
the  French  sculptor  Hondon,     It  it 


nomer  Cassini,  whose  meridian  in  S. 
Petronio  at  Bologna  has  been  already 
mentioned.  It  was  traced  with  ex- 
ceeding care,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of 
the  most  accurate  in  Europe.  Behind 
the  church  is  the  Certosa  convent, 
with  its  celebrated  cloister  det^igned 
by  Michael  Angelo.  It  was  founded 
and  endowed  by  the  Orsini  family. 
The  cloister  is  formed  by  a  portico 
sustained  by  100  columns  of  traver- 
tine, supporting  four  long  corridors, 
which  once  contained  a  rare  collection 
of  engravings.  In  the  centre  of  the 
square  are  the  immense  cypresses 
planted  around  the  fountain  by  M  ichael 
Angelo  when  ViebuSW.  \Xvfe  ^\o\%V£t  \  >\\«^ 
are  said  to  m^OAUX^  \^  l^x.  va^vxwxsw- 


BOtTTB  27-  —  BC 

The  '■  I'ope'i  oil-celUf,"  hi  ' 
(■  called,  U  a  mere  cliambcr  of  llie 
■nelcDl  balhi,  bjt  U  prcKOU  noihing 
af  anir  iiilemi. 

5.  Maria  ddtAKima.  begun  in  1400 
,  bequeathed  for  tlie  |iur- 
by  ■  natlie  of  Germany,  and 
iptctcd  IVom  Ihe  d«igD>  of  Giu- 
Sangalla  The  Hnc  interior 
the  high  altar  the  !Ma- 
_  ingelsiiadiainlsby  Gia- 

tb  Bomma,  much  injured  bj  iTiunila' 
tioni  of  the  Tiber  and  by  carcleis 
rcslDialioiia  1  an  indlfTerenteopj  of  the 
PieU  of  Michael  Angela,  by  Nanni 
di  Bacria  Bigio,  the  Florentine  sculp- 
lar  ;  the  fracots  of  SemtoiHla  in  the 
cbapel  of  the  Cn>iifis<.a  ;  and  the  fres- 
of  Franeaeo  &iloiali  in  llie  ehapel 
Mono.  The  noble  tomb 
.^Adrian  VI.  vas  designed  hy  Bal- 
"■  Periati,  and  seolpluted  by  M. 

Snae  and  Niecold  Tribolo. 
_  _  the  tomb  of  Cardinal  Andiea  of 
Aastria  is  that  ofLucas  llolitenius  of 
Ilamhuriih,  the  well-knovn  Ulirarian 
of  the  Vatican,  the  biograplier  of 
Foiphyt)',  »ho  abjured  Proteitant- 
inoi  and  died  in  Rome  in  li;61.  Two 
■mall  lombi  by  Fiaiam'Kigo  (Du  Quei- 
noy)  are  iiileretting  einmpleii  of  that 
aCuIptOT.  At  the  entrnnce  of  the 
Hcristj  is  the  tomb  of  tlie  Due  Je 
Cleves,  with  a  bi^-relief  repreient- 
log   Gregory  XIII.  giving  him  hii 

S.  itaria  ^A„a  Call  (sec  Av-  CUelt). 

S.  Maria  Anenliiia,  called  also  the 
Priomto,  (ram  the  nriorv  of  the 
Knights  of  Malta 


E. — C^archet.     % 

ed  under  tlie  Anliquilies  a 
I  on  the  >ile  of  tlie  temple  . 

been  built  by    S.  Dionyaii 


Adrian  I. 


I  thfl- 
restured  by 
in  the  form  of 
tended  for  the  Greek 
exiles,  who  were  driven  from  the  eait 
by  the  Icon.ielaan,  under  CoiutaO' 
tine  CopronimuH.  and  having  a  school 
attached  to  it  for  their  lue,  it  acquired 


del  Crii 

^■<Adri 

^*  Aastrii 


restored  in  ITGJ  by  Cardin 
nico,  fram  Ihe  designs  of 
vbo  has  overloaded  it  with  c 
An  antique  marble  saroop In 
bas-reliefs  of  the  Mows,  eei 


D  Uter 


It  hu 


the  name  of  Bocca  della  Vetiti, 
the  marble  mask  under 
ThenameofCoBmedi 
posed  to  relcT  either  to  the  order  of 
.chool  or  to  the  ornauienia  of  the 
t\\.      It  has  a  UBve  divided  from 
lide  ablcs  by  twelve  ancteni 
15  oF  marble.    The  pavement 
Akxaidrinunt.      The  two 
E  and  the  punliGcul  chair  ai 
12th  century.       The  picture  of 
the  Madonna  in  the  tribune  is 
:Brly  Greek  art.      ' 
bernHcle  of  white  marble  and 

by  Deodato  Caiimati.  The  cbureh 
intnins  Ihe  tomb  of  the  learned  Gio. 
[aria  Creacimbeni,  the  foundi 

Arcadian  Academy, 


>t  Mac 


)t  S.  Maria    di    Lortic 


the  Antiquities  of  the 


of  the 
_. etnity  of 

mofTr^an.      It  was  restored 

:raordinary  skill  by  Anlonin 

I   in   1506.  anil  lias  a  double 

arkable  for  Ihe  mngni-    dome  hy 

Tlie  church  is  diiefly  remarkable  foe 
the  sUtue  of  St.  Susanna  by  Fi 
oily  and  Bubiirbt      The  church   was    mm^D    (Du    Quesnoy),    one   of 
.    -.  greatest  productions  of  modem  an 

ILome.    and    without    exception   tlie 
moat  classical  work  which   emaniled 

an  interesting  link  in  tracing  the 
Loml>  Ota  Itiatiop  Spmeld.  A  de- I  progress  of  sculpture  trom  the  firs' 
tailed  account  of  the  Aventlne  will  symptoms  of  ils  decline  in  the  school 
be  found  under  the  bend  of  S.  Sibina.  of  Michael  Angeloi  and  we  shall  look 
jE  Afjrii  in  Co'media,  alresJy  no- '  m  vsin  for  any  work  of  equal  mi 


Papal  States.']    route  27.  —  RQm  e, — Churches, 


427 


the  sculptures  of  the  17th  century. 
At  the  high  altar  is  a  picture  at- 
tributed to  Perugino. 
yL  S.  Maria  aopra  Minerva^  so  called 
from  being  built  on  the  site  of  a  tem- 
ple of  Minerva,  erected  by  Pompey 
afler  his  victories  in  Asia.  It  was  re- 
built in  1S75  under  Gregory  XI.,  and 
granted  to  the  Domenicans :  it  was 
restored  in  the  17th  century  by  Car- 
'dinal  Barbeiini,  from  the  designs  of 
Carlo  Maderno.  It  is  the  only  Gothic 
church  in  Rome.  On  the  unfinished 
£i9ade  are  some  inscriptions  marking 
the  rise  of  the  Tiber  at  difierent  pe- 
riods from  1422  to  1598.  The  inte- 
rior is  imposing.  On  the  left  of  the 
high  altar  is  the  full-length  statue  of 
Christ  by  Michael  Angela,  one  of  his 
finest  single  figures,  highly  finished, 
but  deficient  in  that  expression  of 
divinity  which  we  look  for  in  a  repre- 
smtation  of  the  Saviour.  This  statue 
is  mentioned  in  the  letter  of  Francis  I. 
to  Michael  Angelo,  quoted  in  our 
account  of  the  Pictd  in  St.  Peter^s,  in 
a  previous  page,  as  one  of  those  works 
which  made  the  king  desirous  to  en- 
rich his  chapel  at  Paris  with  some 
productions  of  the  same  matchless 
genius.  In  the  second  chapel  on  the 
right  is  the  S.  Lodovico  Bertrando, 
by  Baciccio;  the  paintings  on  the 
pilasters  are  by  Muziano.  Tlie  chapel 
of  the  Annunciation  (5th  on  the 
right),  painted  by  Cesare  Nebbia,  con- 
tains a  beautifuj  altarpiece  attributed 
to  Beato  Angelica  da  FHesole,  and  the 
statue  of  Urban  VII.  by  Buonvidno. 
In  the  Aldobrandini  chapel  is  the 
Last  Supper  by  Baroccio,  said  to  be 
one  of  his  last  works:  it  was  ordered, 
as  Lanzi  tells  us,  by  Clement  X.  The 
other  paintings  of  this  chapel  are  by 
Cheruhino  Alberti;  the  statue  of  Cle* 
ment  VIII.  is  by  Ippolito  Buzio ;  the 
8t.  Sebastian,  the  figures  of  the  Father 
and  Mother  of  the  Pope,  and  the 
Charity,  are  by  Cordieri  /  that  of  Re- 
ligion is  by  Mariani,  In  the  small 
chapel  at  the  end  of  the  right  tran- 
sept adjoining  is  a  Crucifix,  attri- 
buted to  Giotfo.  The  CarafTa  chapel, 
dedicated   tQ   St  TltomM    A<|uiDaa, 


has  some  interesting  frescoes  by  Filip* 
pino  Lippi;  the  roof  is  painted  hy  Raf^ 
faellino  del  Garba,  the  accomplished 
scholar  of  Lippi :  all  these  paintings 
have  been  too  much  restored.  The 
tomb  of  Paul  IV.  in  this  chapel  is  by 
Pirro  Ligorio,  the  celebrated  archi- 
tect of  the  16th  century.  In  the  ad- 
joining chapel  of  the  Rosary,  the 
Madonna  at  the  high  altar  is  said  to 
be  by  Beato  AngeUco;  the  history  of 
St.  Catherine  of  Siena  is  by  Giovanni 
de*  Vecchi;  the  ceiling,  representing 
the  Mysteries  of  the  Rosary,  is  by 
Marcello  Fenusti.  The  next,  or  Al- 
tieri  chapel,  has  an  altarpiece  by 
Carlo  Maratta,  representing  the  five 
saints  canonised  by  Clement  X.  con- 
ducted before  the  Virgin  by  St. 
Peter.  At  the  altar  of  the  sacristy 
is  a  Crucifixion  by  Andrea  Sacehi.  In 
the  chapel  of  S.  Vincenzo  Ferrerio  is 
a  picture  of  the  saint  by  Bernardo 
Castelli,  the  Genoese  painter,  the 
well-known  friend  of  Tasso.  This 
church  contains  some  very  interesting 
tombs.  Behind  the  high  altar  are 
those  of  Leo  X.  and  Clement  VII., 
designed  by  Antonio  SangaUo;  the 
figure  of  Leo  is  by  Raphael  da  Monit" 
lupOf  that  of  Clement  is  by  Nani  di  Bac* 
cio  Bigio ;  the  rest  is  by  Baedo  Bandi- 
nelli.  On  the  pavement  below  arc 
the  toml)s  of  Cardinal  Casanata,  of 
the  learned  Padre  Mamachi,  and  of 
Cardinal  Bembo,  the  celebrated  re- 
storer of  learning,  the  friend  of  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  Raphael,  and  Ariosto  t 
it  was  erected,  as  the  inscription  tella 
us,  by  his  natural  son,  Torquato 
Bembo.  Another  tomb  interesting 
to  English  travellers  is  that  of  Cardi- 
nal Howard,  '^Magnae  Britannia: 
Protector,"  the  grandson  of  Thomas, 
earl  of  Arundel,  who  died  in  Rome, 
May  21.  1694.  On  the  way  to  the 
entrance  on  the  left  of  the  choir  are 
the  magnificent  tombs  of  Cardinal 
Alessandrino,  by  Giaeomo  deUa  Porta; 
of  Cardinal  Pimentelli,  by  Bernini ; 
and  of  Cardmal  Bcnelli,  by  Carlo 
Rainaldi.  Near  them,  let  into  the 
wall,  is  the  tomb  of  Be«A.o  ¥\^  <>v^ 


e  ?T- —  KOTtit.—^f^vretta. 


^IBP 


■  tomb  of  RuiMiUcI  XIII.  (Or- 
'>  in  the  left  tnnuipl.  is  by  Carlo 
vkimi.  lo  Ibe  uam  is  tbe  tomb 
PPaului  MaDuliiu.  n>n  of  the  cele- 
fMad  Aldui  Manutiu!  of  Venice; 
If  died  at  R'Hneinl5T4,  alter  he  had 
'  inted  the  Scriptures  and  the  Workii 
of  llie  Fothers,  and  eompoaed  his 
fWmous  "  Coininent(riei  on  Cicero." 
and  hi*  Irarned  treitiu!  ■■  De  Curia 
Roinuna.''     It  i>  icarcety  possible  to 

tile  hintnry  of  typagraphy.  The  Ibl- 
Inwinj  is  the  «mp1c  but  eiprnsive 
iilseription:  pavlo  uabvt.o  alm  ri- ' 
On  the  las 


pilaster  or  the  naie  is  ih 

of    Ripliwl    Fahrctti, 

Liic    leBroed 

of   Urblno,    who    died    «i 

cient  Aq 

eduots,  and  b 

,   Syntagma 

on  Trajan 

<  Columxi,  are 

At  the  en 

rauee  of  the 

hapel  of  the 

Rosnry 

Durand.  the  learnei)  Proven^'al  and 
biihap  of  Mende,  author  of  the  "  Spe- 
culum Juris,"  and  the  "  Itationale 
dirinorum  oOiciaruni."  The  "  Ra- 
tionale "  is  aaid  to  liRve  l)een  one  of 
the  earliest  printed  books.  His  tomb 
U  remariiBble  for  its  mosaics  and 
■eulptures  by  Giovatmi  Caiima'i.  The 
Festival  of  Sc  Thomas  Aquinas,  on 
the  7tb  March,  is  oWrred  in  this 
thurcb  with  great  BoLemuity,  and 
high  tnass  is  performed  in  the  pre- 
sence of  all  the  cuJinals.  On  the 
al  of  the  Annunciation,  on  Che 
ilh  of  the  same  month,  llie  pope  at- 
i  in  the  church,  and 
wb  their  dowry  on  the 
ig  girls  portioued  by  the  Suciety 
.  .  le  Annunziats.  Tile  ifoaaiter^ 
alfachcd  to  this  church  is  tlie  chieC 
of  the  DomeBJeaaB,  and  the  gene- 


Fe^ti' 

K 


It  the  Palace  of  the 
Inquisition,  called  "  the  Tribunal  of 
tlie  Holy  Oniee,"  is  sitiinted  near  St. 
Peter's,  and  is  described  in  the  Ac- 
count of  the  "  Palaces"  in  ■  subsc 
quent  pa^e.  The  LibraTj/  of  the 
Minerva,  called  the  Bihliolcca  Can- 
natense,  from  Cardinal  Casanata  its 
founder,  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
in  llome:  it  contains  upvirdi  of 
laO.OOO  printed  books  and  4J09 
MSS.  The  most  ancient  of  the  lat- 
ter is  a  Ponlilical  on  parchment  of 
the  9th  century,  illuminated  irilh 
tninialurea.  The  Hebrew  Fenlateuok 
has  giicn  rise  t«  some  controvei^, 
being  supposed  by  some  writers  to 
hare  been  printed  at  Soura  in  Forttb 
gal.  by  others  at  Saris  in  Spain, 
while  the  Neapolitans  claim  the  ho- 
our  for  their  town  of  Sora.  Two 
npublished  treatises  by  8.  Thomas 
Aquinas  have  been  recently  fbnod 
here:  one  entitled,  "  De  Advenfti 
Statu  eC  Vita  Antichristi ;  "  the  OthN 
"  IJe  Judicio  Unali,"  in  whirfi  lb« 
mysteries  of  the  Apocalypse  are  ex- 
plained. AhirgeBiblconparchmenli 
stamped  by  hand  with  wooden  cha- 
racters, is  interesting  in  the  history 
of  printing.  The  collection  of  the 
prints  published  by  the  CaloagraGs 
Camerale  is  one  of  the  Anest  ever 
formed,  and  already  amounts  to 
many  thousands.  This  library  i> 
richer  in  printed  hooks  than  any  other 
in  Rome,  and  is  only  surpassed  by 
the  Vaticao  in  manuscripts.  It  ti 
open  daily  Irora  9  to  J  past  2  t.h. 

S-  Maria  di  Ma-It  Sanla.  ^  Thic 
and  the  corresponding  church  of  B. 
M.  de'  Miracoli  are  well  known  to 
English  travellers.  Iliey  stand  at 
the  eitremity  of  the  Corso,  iu  the 
Piaiia  del  Popolo,  and  divide  that 
main  tharDugbfare  from  the  Via  Ri- 
petta  and  Via  Babuinn.  They  were 
begun  by  Alexander  VII.  from  the 
designs  of  Rainaldi.  and  finished  by 
Cardinal  Gastaldi,  legate  of  Bologna, 
in  the  !7th  oeotury.from  the  designs 
ot  Cot\o  Yon^atva.     Tist'j  mt  tvo*.  '(c- 


Papal  States.']    ro  ute  27. —  Ro  m  £. — -  Churches. 


4291 


markable  for  their  architectural  me- 
rits, and  contain  nothing  worthy  of 
notice.  Such  an  entrance  into  Rome 
was  worthy  of  something  better  than 
the  architecture  of  these  churches. 

S,  Maria  ddla  NaviceUa,  so  called 
from  a  small  marble  ship  which  Leo 
X.  placed  in  front  of  it.    The  church 
is  one  of  the  oldest  in    Rome,  and 
stands   on  the  site  of  the  house   of 
S.  Cyriaca,  from  which  it  is  some- 
times called  in  Domnictu     It  was  en- 
tirely renewed  by  Leo  X.  from  the 
designs  of  Raphael.     The  portico  is 
by    Michael    Angelo.     The   interior 
has  eighteen  fine  columns  of  granite 
and  two  of  porpliyry.     The  frieze  of 
the  nave  is  painted  in  chiaro-scuro  by 
Giidio  Romano  and  Perino  del  Vaga. 
In  the  Confessional  are  the  remains  of 
S.  Balbina.     The  mosaics  of  the  tri- 
bune are  of  the  9th  century,  when  the 
church  was  restored  under  Paschal  I. 
S,  Maria  del  Orto,  in  the  Traste- 
▼ere,  near  the  Ripa  Grande,  deserves 
notice  for  its  architecture.     It   was 
designed  by  Giulio   Romano,  about 
1530,  with  the  exception  of  the  fa- 
cade, which  was  added  by  Martino 
Lunghi.  It  contains  an  Annunciation 
by  Taddeo  Zuccari.    The  architecture 
of  the  high  altar  is  by  Giacomo  della 
Porta. 

S.  Maria  della  Pace,  built  by  Sixtus 
IV.  in  1487,  as  a  memorial  of  the 
peace  of  Christendom,  after  it  had 
been  threatened  by  the  Turks  in  1 480. 
It  was  designed  by  Baccio  Pintelli, 
and  restored  by  Alexander  VII.  from 
the  designs  of  Pietro  da  Cortona,  who 
added  the  semicircular  portico.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  nave  and  an  oc- 
tagonal cupola  in  good  taste.  Over 
the  arch  of  the  first  chapel,  on  the 


very  probably  suggested  by  the  works 
of  the  Sistine  chapel,  but  they  bear 
distinct  evidence  of  the  peculiar  grace 
and  sweetness  of  Raphael's  own  style. 
In  regard  to  the  common  story  of  the 
jealousy  of  the  two  great  artists,  it  is 
said  that  when  Michael  Angelo  was 
consulted  by  the  banker  Chigi  on  the 
price  which  Raphael  could  claim  for 
these  Sibyls,  Michael  Angelo  replied 
that  every  head  was  worth  a  hundred 
crowns.    They  have  recently  been  re- 
stored, but  had  unfortunately  suffered 
from  old  repainting  in  oil.    The  Pro- 
phets above  are  by  Tinu^eo  della  Vite, 
from  Raphael's  drawings.     The  four 
paintings   of  the   cupola   have   been 
much  admired:  the  Visitation  is  by 
Carlo  Maratta;   the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple  in  oil  is  one  of  the  finest 
works  of  Baldassare  Peruzzi;  the  Na- 
tivity of  the  Virgin  is  by  Francesco 
Vanni ;  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  Is 
considered    the   masterpiece   of  Gio, 
Maria  Morandi.   The  high  altar,  from 
the  designs  of  Carlo  Maderno,  Jias 
some  graceful  paintings  on  the  ceil- 
ing by  Albani.     ITie  altarpiece  of  the 
1st  chapel  on  the  left  is  by  Baldassare 
Peruzzi,     The  2nd  chapel  on  the  lef% 
has  an  altarpiece  by  Mareello  Fenusti, 
probably  after  Michael  Angelo.    The 
2d  chapel  on  the  right  has  arabesques 
by   Simone  Mosca.     The  cloisters  of 
this   church  are   not  remarkable   for 
their  architecture,  though   they  were 
designed  by  Bramante  (1494). 
)C  S.  Maria  del  Popdot  founded,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  by  Paschal  II.  in 
1099,  on  the  spot  where  the  ashes  of 
Nero  are  said  to  have  been  discovered 
and  scattered  to  the  winds.     The  tra- 
dition   states  that  the    people  were 
constantly  harassed  by  the  phantoms 


right  hand  in  entering  the  church,  are   which  haunted  the  spot,  and  that  the 


the  Four  Sibyls  by  Raphael,  They  re- 
present the  Cumsean,  Persian,  Phry- 
gian, and  Tiburtine  Sibyls,  and  are 
universally  classed  among  the  most 
perfect  works  of  this  illustrious  mas- 
ter. Unlike  the  Isaiah  in  the  Agos- 
tino,  these  frescoes  do  not  show  the 
imitation  of  Michael  Angelo  for  which 
that  picture  jg  nauurkMble,  Tbeywere 


church  was  built  to  protect  them  from 
these  ghostly  visitants.  It  was  rer 
built  by  Sixtus  IV.,  from  the  designs 
of  Baccio  Pintelli,  in  1480,  and  was 
completed  and  embellished  by  Julius 
II.,  by  Agostino  Chigi,  and  other 
wealthy  oitisens.  Alexander  VII, 
modernised  the  'wVio\«  \^>v\^\cv%  ^'Cw 


BOOTB  3T. —  BOMB.  —  CRulvJtil. 


ingb.ofll, 
tM  (o  IDC  Virgin  and  to  Si.  Je- 
bf    CBrdinal    CiUtufuro    dells 

I,    o«ilun>  the   nior   -' 

•  Mrdinsl  and  fomo  fii 
■  eclcbrnted  nilurpiece  of  the  Na- 
blli.  bjr  Pinlia-iechio.  The  Hiid,  oi 
I  Cilio  cliapel,  dctigned  by  Cmla 
mthe  plan  of  a  Greek 
I  »erde  aiid  oero  anlici 
ilabasler,  and  jaspt'r 
or  tlie  t^unception  u  by  Carlo 
.  Tile  third  diapel,  di  "  ' 
i  the  VirKia  by  SiiCui  IV. 
^■rksblo  for  it>  rivBcoe)  bj  PimlH- 
9ekiot  latolj  restored  by  Cantucvini, 
1  Uie  4th,  a  the  baa-relief  of  8l 
[^Ih Brine  between  S(.  Antony  of 
FaduB  and  St.  Vincent,  on  intereat- 
iflg  vork  of  tb«  tatb  century-,  and 
on  the  right,  in  the  blvutiFuI  monu- 
mental  figure  of  M.  A.  Alliertoiii,  who 
Effi^  young  oT  plague  in  H85.  The 
^WaUng  of  the  choir  is  covered  with 
^  ea  by  FUturiahio  in  his  bett 
The  painted  windows  are  by 
(each  artists,  CUude  and  Guillaume, 
wbo  were  invited  Id  Rome  by  Bra- 
nunle ;  Ihey  are  the  only  eiamples 
of  punted  windows  in  Rome.  Under 
Iheic  are  the  magnificent  tombs  of 
Cwdinal  Ascanio  Sforza  and  the  Car- 
diiul  Basso  di  Ricinsli,  by  Andrea 
SaxMBBiiio,  the  sculptor  of  the  beau- 
(iftll  bat-reliefs  at  Loreloj  they  are 
perhaps  the  most  oelebrBted  tombs  or 
(he  l.Stb  century  in  Rome :  Sanwtino 
wax  brought  to  Rome  by  Julius  II. 
purposely  to  execute  them.  Vasari 
beitoin  upon  tlidr  beautiful  statues 
tha  highest  praise,  and  declsrca  that 
Ihey  ace  so  perfectly  finished  that  they 
leave  nothing  more  to  be  desired. 
They  deserve  to  be  carefully  studied 
by  all  who  ore  interested  in  tracing 
the  pf  ogress  of  sculpture  irom  the  pe- 
riod of  the  revival.  In  the  cbapcl  on 
the  left  of  the  bigh  altar  is  the  As- 
sun^ition,  by  Aimibalt  Canwf-i-  The 
CmciSxioa  of  St.  Peter  and  the  Ctin- 
lersioa  of  St.  Paul  are  bf  M.  Axgila 


(7<iraDa^w(Amcrighi).  Die  Cbi^ 
chapel,  the  Sd  on  the  left  bond,  vsa 
cnnitrucled  and  decorated  from  the  de- 
signs of  BaphatL  The  mosaica  of  ^e 
cupola,  repreMUting  the  creation  of  the 
heavenly  bodies,  are  from  his  designs. 


1  long  h 


after  his  death  Ai 
which  prevailed  in  the  middle  aget, 
and  may  be  found  In  Dante,  ^eb 
planet  is  represented  under  the  guid- 
ance of  >  guardian  BDjt>:1.  The  ini- 
tials on  the  lorah  of  Cupid  indieato 
the  name  of  the  anisi,  Loduvieo  dellk 
Puce,  who  eieeuted  these  mosuo; 
the  date  is  IJtR.  The  original  pUn 
was  to  CDTcr  (he  ceiling  with  a  leriei 
of  subjects  from  the  Creation  to  the 
fall  of  Adam ;  the  waits  were  to  hna 
paintings  illuitraiing  the  Netr  TeBka> 

be  connected  by  four  statues  of  Pro- 
phets. The  mosaics  of  the  Creation 
have  recently  been  made  known  bj 
tlie  excellent  outlines  of  Griiner,  the 
Prussian  engraver,  wlii»o  name  baa 
becotne  associated  with  some  of  the 
finest  works  of  Raphael  Tbe  Na- 
tivity of  the  Virgin  over  the  altar,  and 
the  oil  paintings  between  the  win- 
dows, were  bei^n  by  S^^itiaito  dil 
Piamlo,  and  finished  by  Salriati.  The 
beautiful  Statue  of  Josah  silting  on  a 
whale,  long  knoH-ii  to  have  been  do- 
signed  by  Haphad,  is  now  proved  by 
Passavani  to  have  been  sculptured  by 
the  great  artist.  The  Rl^ah  is  by 
Lartmetta,  after  tbe  design  of  Rm- 
phaeli  the  Daniel  and  the  Habakkuk 
are  by  Bmiiii.  Near  this  chapel  ia 
the  tomb  of  the  Princess  Odescalchi 
Cblgi  (I7T1),  by  Paah  Fosl.  remark. 
able  only  for  its  bad  taste.  In  the 
corridor,  sacristry,  tmnuspts,  and  in 
several  chapels  of  the  church,  are  nu- 
merous very  interesting  monuments: 
some  of  them  are  ornamented  with 
fine  sculptures  of  the  ]5th  century, 
and  on  others  some  curious  epitaphs 
may  be  noticed.  In  a  tabernacle  of 
elaborate  sculpture  in  the  sB 
which  formerly  sdomed  the 
altar,  is  inclosed    an  iulcresllng  oli^ 


Papal  States,']    route  27.  —  Rome. — Churches. 


431 


)C  5*.  Maria  in  Trastevere,  said  to  be 
the  first  church  publicly  consecrated 
to  divine  worship  in  Rome :  it  cer- 
tainly appears  to  have  been  the  first 
dedicated    to   the    Virgin.       It   was 
founded  as  a  small  oratory  by  St.  Ca* 
lixtus  in  224,  rebuilt  in  340  by  Ju- 
lius I.,  and  by  him  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin.     In  707  it  was  ornamented 
with  mosaics  by  John  VII.,  and  sub- 
sequently restored  by  Gregory  II.  and 
Gregory  III.      Adrian  I.  added  the 
side  aisles;  Benedict  III.  built  the  tri- 
bune ;  Innocent  1 1.,  in  1 1 39,  restored 
the  whole  building,  and  decorated  the 
fa9ade  with  mosaics,  which  are  still 
preserved.      Nicholas  V.   reduced  it 
to  its  present  form,  on  the  plans  of 
Bernardino  Rossellino.     The  mosaics 
of  the   fa9ade   represent   the  Virgin 
and  Child,  and  the  five  wise  and  five 
foolish   virgins :    they  were    restored 
in  the  14  th  century  by  Pietro  Caval- 
Unij  who  assisted  Giotto  in  executing 
his    Navicella   at    St.   Peter's.      The 
twenty* one   granite   columns,  which 
divide   the   nave  from  the  two  side 
aisles,  were  evidently  taken  from  an- 
cient edifices:   some  have  Ionic  and 
f>ome  Corinthian  capitals.     Many  of 
the  Ionic  capitals  have  either  in  the 
▼olutes  or  the  flowers  small  heads  of 
Isis,  Scrapis,  and  Harpocrates.      The 
fine  Assumption,  by  DomenichinOt  is 
painted    on    copper,    in    the    centre 
of  the   rich  vaulting  executed  from 
his  designs.      Domenichino   also  de- 
signed the  chapel  of  the  Madonna  di 
Strada  Cupa,  on  the  right  of  the  altar, 
and   commenced  the  graceful  figure 
of  a  child  with  flowers  in  a  compart- 
ment of  the  ceiling.    Tlie  tribune  has 
two  series  of  mosaics :  the  upper  ones, 
representing  the  Saviour,  the  Virgin, 
and  several  saints,  were  executed  in 
the  12th  century,  when  the  church 
was  restored  by  Innocent  1 1. ;  those 
below,  representing  the  Life  of  the 
Virgin,  are  by  I^tro  Cavallini,     The 
Coi^essional  contains  the  remains  of 
St  Calixtus    and    four    other    early 
popes,  who  have  obtained  a  place  in 
the  ealendar.     This  ehurch  has  some 
intereitiiig  tombt :  mmong  them  may 


be  specified  those  of  Lanfranco  and 
Ciro  Ferri,  the  painters;  and  of  Gio- 
vanni Bottari,  the  learned  librarian 
of  the  Vatican,  editor  of  the  Dic- 
tionary of  the  Delia  Cniscan  Acade- 
my, an  able  writer  on  art,  who  died 
canon  of  this  church  in  1775.  In  the 
left  transept  are  the  tombs  of  Car- 
dinal  d*Alencon,  brother  of  Philip  le 
Bel,  and  of  Cardinal  StefaneSchi,  by 
Ptioloy  the  celebrated  Roman  sculptor 
of  the  14th  century.  Near  this  church 
is  the  immense  Benedictine  Convent 
of  San  CalistOy  celebrated  for  the  Latin 
Bible  of  S.  Paolo,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  MSS.  of  the  8th  century, 
said  to  have  been  a  present  from 
Charlemagne.  It  is  rennarkable  for 
its  superb  miniatures  and  initial  let- 
ters. The  double  frontispiece  has 
on  one  side  a  picture  of  the  emperor 
and  two  squires,  and  on  the  other  the 
empress  attended  by  one  of  her  ladies. 
The  whole  Bible  is  filled  with  illu- 
minations of  the  utmost  delicacy  and 
richness  of  ornament,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  valuable  specimens  of  its 
kind. 

S.  Maria  a  Trevi  (de*  Crociftri), 
said  to  have  been  founded  by  Belisa- 
rius.  This  church,  situated  near  the 
Fountain  of  Trevi,  derives  its  popular 
name  from  the  order  of  the  Crociferi, 
to  whom  it  was  presented  by  Gregory 
XIII.  in  1573.  It  was  rebuilt  by 
Alexander  VII.  from  the  designs  of 
Giacomo  del  Duca.  It  contains  some 
fine  pictures  of  the  Venetian  school, 
principally  b^  Palma  Vecchio.  The 
small  historical  subjects  round  the 
altar  of  the  Crocifisso  are  by  //  Bdog' 
ne«e(Gio.  Francesco  Grimaldi).  The 
pictures  of  Pabna  Vecchio  are  at  one 
of  the  side  altars;  another  altar  has  a 
picture  of  the  Venetian  school,  pro- 
bably by  one  of  Palma*s  scholars. 
yC  S.  Maria  in  ValHeena,  called  also 
Chiesa  Nuova^  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  imposing  churches  in  Rome.  It 
was  built  by  S.  Filippo  Neri,  assisted 
by  Gregory  XIII.  and  Cardinal  Cesi, 
from  the  designs  of  Martino  LunghL 
The  interior  is  rich  in  marblea  fljoil 
omamenU  d«iAf|;ii«diV)  Pxctro  daOoT- 


4M 


a«VT*tf7-.< — S.OUE.^CkiireAet. 


fa 


lima,  «ho  |>Dii>t(d  the  runti  Ihe  cu- 
pola, lad  tlie  viuli  of  tin  Iribuoc. 
In  ihe  BrH  chnpcl  on  tlic  riglit  i>  tlw 
fin*  CrueiBiion,  by  Stipimt  Catloni, 
callid  the  Itoman  Vandyke.  Tlis 
Coron*tit>n  uf  tha  Virgin  iu  ihe  cliapcl 
of  the  tniiKpt  ii  by  Cae.  d'Arpino. 
Tbe  high  alUr  ii  icmirluble  for 
tlirco  pninling)  by  Bitlitnt  in  hii  early 
jroulb  !  tin  central  picture  represent! 
(b«  Virgin  in  a  glory  of  angeh;  the 
othm  reprnent,  un  one  Hide.  Sl  Cre- 
gory,  S.  MauTu,  and  8.  Papist  i  on 
the  other,  S.  Domitilla,  S,  Neteo,  and 
S.  Achilleo.  In  the  nfil  chapel  i 
the  Sne  PrvsenUliun  in  the  Templi 
by  Baroccio.  'llie  rooTorilic  Sacriily 
u  painted  by  Fielrada  Cortoao;  the 
iubject  is  the  Archangel  bcnring  the 
aymboli  of  the  Passion  (o  Hemen: 
it  u  finely  colouiiid,  and  remarkabU 
for  the  effect  of  the  rure-shartening. 
The  lUlue  oFS.  Filippo  is  by  Algardi. 
la  an  inner  chamber  la  a  fine  picture 
by  Gnereifo.  Beyond  this  ia  the 
chamber  of  S.  Filippo,  lUll  relaining 
the  furniture  which  he  used.  In  the 
(null  chapel  is  preaervvd  tlie  picture, 
by  GBiib,irhichBn  ^werrulljaHected 
tfag  Saint:  the  ceiling  is  painted  by 
l^etru  da  CurCooa.  Iteturning  la  tbe 
church,  the  second  cliapol  on  the  right 
hand  has  the  beaullfui  Visitation,  by 
Barotcio  ,  Ihe  la^it  cbapel  on  this  lida 
is  painted  by  Car.  rTArpiia.  Tliis 
church  contains  the  lambs  of  (he  cele- 
brated Cardinal  Baronius,  of  Cardi- 
nal Taruggi,  and  of  Cjirdinal  lUaury. 

inpoiitions  of  lacred  music  irhich 
A  the  Bame  of  aralorio  from  Ibe 
irhich  be  founded.  Oratorios 
t'Sre  still  performed  in  thU  church 
during  Lent,  at  vbich  females  are  not 
allowed  to  be  present  S.  Filippo  is 
also  entitled  to  honourable  praise  for 
having  induced  Cardinal  Baronius  to 
write  his  celebrated  Annals.  At  his 
festival,  on  the  Slith  May,  a  grand 
mass  ia  eelebtJted  in  this  church,  in 
the  presence  of  the  pope  and  canlinuls. 
The  adjoining  Convent  of  S.  Filippo 
"  ■■  le  of  the  best  works  of  Bor- 
Fhc  flal  roof  ol'  tlic  otatotj 


is  an  able  imitation   of  that   of  tlte    ' 
Cella  Soleaiis  of  the  Balbs  uf  Cara- 
calla.      Tlic  chapel  of  S.  Filippo  tSai    I 
contains  a    mosaic   copy  of    Guido^    i 
picture  of  Hie  saint;  and  a  series  of    \ 
paintings  on   the  roof,  illustratii 
different  events  in  his  life,  by  Oi 
fano  Roacalli.     Tbe  body  of  the  saint 
is  buried   beneath    the    altar.       ~ 
LIhrarg    contains    some    interesting 
works.     'I'he  "  Enarrationes  in  Pad- 
mos.'bySt.  Augustin,un  parchment. 
is  the  oldest  MS.     A  Latin  Bible  et 
tbe  8th  century  is  attributed  10  Alci^ 
nus.      Several   inedited   manuscripla 
of  Cardinal   Baroniua  are   preaei      ' 

S.  Maria  in  17a  Lal-i,  by  the 
of  the  Doria  Palate,  is  said  by  Iha 
Church  tradhion  to  occupy  the  apol 
where  St.  Paul  lodged  vith  theoe^. 
turion.  The  church  was  foundadt? 
Sergius  I.  in  Ihe  Sth  cvniurj.  rebuilt 
by  Innocent  VIIL  in  14S5.  and  »• 
stored  in  1662  by  Aliiandec  VlL( 
when  the  ^ade  was  added  bv  Pietn* 
dn  Cortona,  who  considered  it 
masterpiece  of  architrcture.  In 
subterranCFin  eburth  is  a  spring  jpT 
water,  which  is  said  by  Ihe  tr»dit«» 
to  have  sprung  up  miraculously,  t* 
enable  the  apostle  (o  bapiiac  his   " 

S.  Maria  ddla  Vitlma,  Do  ca 
from  a  mimculous  picture  of  the  U** 
donna,  whose  inteioessiun  U  sm4  tCf,' 
have  obtained  many  victories  over  ^ 
Turks.  It  was  built  in  its  preseni' 
magnidccnt  style  in  11)05,  b;  Paul  V, 
Tbe  imposing  facade  was  added  fitmi 
tbe  designs  of  Gio.  Baltiata  Soria,  at 
tbe  eipenae  of  Cardinal  Borghete,  in 
reluiii  for  tlie  present  of  the  liermft- 
phrodilc  found  in  the  gardens  of  the 
adjoining  Carmelite  convent,  and  i 
in  Ihe  Mu!^eum  at  Paris,  'i'he 
terior  is  by  Carlo  Maderno.  ■; 
flags  suspeniled  &am  the  roof  were 
captured  from  tbe  Turks  when  they 
were  compelled  to  raise  the  liege  of 
Vienna,  September  IS.  1693.  I'he 
Virgin  and  St.  Francis  in  the  sec  " 
cliapcl,  and  the  two  lateral  piclu 
are  bj  DomemtUno.     The  chapel  of 


J^qml  States.^     route  27. — rome.  —  Churches. 


433 


S.  Teresa  contains  the  celebrated  re- 
clining statue  of   the   saint   in   the 
ecstasy  of  divine  love,  with  the  Angel 
of  Death  descending  to  transfix  her 
with  his  dart,  by  Bernini:  it  is  not 
deficient  in  power,  but  is  marked  by 
the  usual  extravagance  of  his  school. 
The  next  chapel  contains  the  Trinity, 
by  Guercino;  a  Crucifixion,  by  Guido; 
and  his  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Cornaro. 
S.  Martino  ai  Monti,  called  also  S. 
SUoestro  e    S.    Martino,  built  by    S. 
Symmachus  a.d.  5CX),  on  the  site  of  a 
more  ancient  church  founded  by  S. 
Silvester  in  the  time  of  Constantine 
the  Great.     After  being  restored  by 
several  popes  in  the  middle  ages,  it 
was  modernised  in  1 650  by  P.  Filip- 
pini,  the  general  of  the   Carmelites. 
The  nave  is  divided   from  the  two 
side   aisles    by   a   double    range    of 
twenty-four  ancient  columns,  of  the 
Corinthian   order,   and    of    different 
marbles,  said  to  have  been  taken  from 
Hadrian's  villa   at    Tivoli.      In   the 
aisles  is  a  series  of  very  remarkable 
landscapes  in  fresco  by  Caspar  Poussin, 
with  the   prophet   Elijah  and  otlier 
figures  by  his  more  celebrated  brother- 
in-law,  Nichoias  Poussin,     The  high 
altar  is  raised  upon  a  platform  richly 
paved  with  marbles  of  various  colours. 
Beneath  it  a  marble  staircase  leads  to 
the  Confessional,  containing  the  bodies 
of  popes  S.  Silvester  and  S.  Martin, 
arranged  and  decorated  by  Pietro  da 
Cortona.     Below  this  is  the  Subter- 
ranean Church,  a  kind  of  crypt,  which 
formed  part  of  the  Baths  of  Trajan. 
The  ancient  pavement  is  of  black  and 
white  mosaic,  and  the  antique  Ma- 
donna at  the  altar  is  of  the  same  ma- 
terial.    In   this  crypt  Su  Silvester  is 
supposed  to  have  held  the  first  gene- 
ral   council    after  the  conversion  (^ 
Constantine.      Near  this  church  is  a 
piazza,  which  still  retains  the  name 
of  Suburra,   the  celebrated  street  of 
ancient  Rome. 

SS.  Nereo  edAchilko,  near  the  Baths 
of  Caracalla,  built  by  John  I.  in  524, 
and  restored  in  the  1 6th  eentury  by 
Cardinal  Baronius,  who  was  titulary 
of  the  church.  It  is  remarkable 
Cemi,  A 


chiefly  for  the  two  ambones  or  marble 
pulpits,  for  the  mosaics  of  the  8th 
century,  and  for  the  episcopal  chair 
from  which  Gregory  the  Great  read 
his  twenty-eighth  homily  to  the  peo- 
ple. A  portion  of  this  homily  is  en- 
graved on  the  back  of  the  chair.  In 
the  gallery  is  an  interesting  fresco 
representing  a  Council.  On  a  marble 
slab  is  still  preserved  the  impressive 
adjuration  in  which  Cardinal  Baro- 
nius entreats  his  successors  not  to 
alter  the  building  or  remove  any  of 
its  antiquities.  The  touching  prayer 
of  the  father  of  ecclesiastical  history 
might  be  advantageously  followed  by 
some  of  the  Iconoclasts  of  our  own 
time,  who  are  constantly  despoiling 
the  fine  old  churches  of  England  by 
modern  improvements  and  innova- 
tions. The  following  is  the  inscrip- 
tion :  Presbyter,  Card.  Successor  quis- 
qttis  fueris,  rogo  te,  per  gloriam  Dei,  et 
per  merita  horum  martyrum,  nihil  demito, 
nihii  tninuito,  uee  mutato;  restitutam 
antiquitatem  pie  servato;  sic  Deus 
martyrum  suorum  prectbus  semper  ad- 
jutet/ 

yy  S.  Onofrio,hm\t  in  the  15th  century 
for  the  hermits  of  the  Congregation 
of  St.  Jerome.  There  are  few  churches 
in  Rome  which  possess   so  deep  an 
interest  for  the  Italian  scholar  as  this, 
the  last  resting-place  of  Tasso.   Under 
the  portico  on  the  side  of  the  church 
are  three  lunettes,  in  which  Dome' 
nichino    has    painted    the    Baptism, 
Temptation,  and  Flagellation  of  St. 
Jerome.     The  Virgin  and  Child  over 
the  door  are  by  the  same  master.    On 
entering  the  church  a  small  slab  of 
marble  on  the  left  hand   bears  the 
simple  but  sufficient  inscription,  Toa- 
QVATi   TASsi   ossA.      The   illustrious 
poet  came  to  this  convent  to  seek  an 
asylum  in  his  latter  days,  and  died 
here  in  1595.     The  cell  in  which  he 
lived  has  recently  been  restored  to  its 
old  condition  by  a  number  of  ama- 
teurs, and  is  now  the  object  of  nume- 
rous pilgrimages ;  a  monument  to  bis 
honour  is  also  said  to  be  in  progress, 
from  the  designs  of  Cav.  Fabris,  but  no 
moQumeat  caik^MWM&\a^>^'«\xwVet«i^ 


noCT«S7' — R9MB, — Ohtn^Hm  y? 


leilcd  liy  the  pliin  gmTcstone  whicli 
eoven  bla  Tcmnina.  The  Inmb  of  Alta. 
MOilro  Culdi  ii  complcteljr  rolipwd 
by  Iha  bme  of  Tiua.  Thii  emi- 
Dent  Ij^io  poel,  called  tlie  Italiin 
Rn<lsr,  (tied  here  in  IT13.  The 
tomb  of  John  Barclay,  the  author  of 
th«  AtgenU,vl]|  interest  Britieh  ira> 
Tellers  I  be  spent  the  last  tii  yean  of 
his  life  at  Rome,  wliere.  ai  I^rd 
Halloa  lelli  ut,  bis  great  delight  can- 
italed  la  his  flower'garden ;  he  died 
here  in  ICfil.  At  the  high  altar  are 
■ome  frescoe*  by  Baldaitarc  Fentiii 
<t  the  lower  portion,  and  some  others 
by  Pinturiechio  above;  they  hlTC  suf- 
fered greUly  (roni  lestorera.  In  a 
corridor  of  the  adjoining  monastery 
not  ahown  to  ladies,  ii  the  head  of  a 
Madonna  in  freuo,  by  Liaiardo  da 
Fimd,  and  in  one  of  the  tocnns  ii  a 
wooden  bust  of  Tasso,  preserved  in  a 
fflasa  caae,  to  which  ia  attached  an 
intemling  relic,  heing  the  wax  mnsk 
taken  from  lib  fkoe  immediately  after 
death.  The  gardens  of  S.  Onofrio 
command  one  of  the  moat  bcoutiful 
views  of  Rome,  A  tree  long  bore  the 
name  of  Thuo't  Out,  and  was  conse- 
sriled  bj  the  tradition  that  the  great 
poet  made  it  his  Favourite  place  of 
study.  It  was  a  fine  old  oak,  and 
was  happily  too  aged  to  have  been 
subjected  to  the  profaning  sceptidsm 
of  travellers.  There  was  do  tree  in 
the  world  which  the  Italian  scholar 
regarded  with  deeper  interest,  hut  It 
was  unfortunstely  destroyed  by  a 
itorm  in  the  autuum  of  1 S42. 

&  Paneratio,  near  the  Vigua  Cor- 
lini,  and  adjoining  tb«  nark  of  the 
Villa  PamQIi  Doria  h^voni  the 
gate  of  the  same  name  o' 
culuRi.  It  stands  on  the  i 
'V^teltina,  and  is  said  to  bare  been 
founded  by  S.  Felii  I.  in  the  3rd 
century,  on  the  site  of  the  cemetery 
of  CalepodiuE.  The  present  churoh 
was  built  by  St.  Syminachua  in  the 
5Ui  cenlmy,  and  after  being  long 
abandoned  woa  restored  in  IG09,  by 
Cardinal  Torres.  It  was  formerly 
,  cfJebrated  for  its  ambunet,  and  other 
Motiguities  oftho  early  ages  cf  Chiia- 


lianiiy  ;  but  many  of  thera  wer 
sirojed  or  removed  while  the  cl 
remained  deserted.  During  the 
of  Home  by  the  French  in  1849,  the 
churehofSan  PancnMiobecameap 
tion  as  important  to  the  licaiegeri 
werelhe  villas  in  it<  neighbourhood,  ll 
waa,  therefore,  taken  by  storm  by  two 
French  columns,  under  Gen.  RegnauM' 
de  St.  Jean  d'Angcly,  and  though  &ti 
building  was  several  times  flred  by- 
the  Roman  bowiliers,  and  the  Frrneli 


hey   ulti 


of  the  edifice,  and  to 
he  key  of  their  operstions. 
nrkabic  ns  the  burial-|daea 
niio  Nomentano,  the  cde- 
isul  of  Rome  in  the  10tl\ 
lib  epitaph  was  tisilJl 
he  restorations  of  Civdlnd' 
ut    it  unlbrtunately   diiAp* 


feat  of  Totila,  met  the  pope  and  ei 
dinali,  and  marched  in  pnwesaion 
St  Peter's  la  return  thanks  foi  his 
victory.  It  was  here  also  that  Peter. 
II.  of  Arajron  was  crowned  by  Inno- 
cent in,,  and  Louis  king  of  N«ple» 
was  received  by  Jobn  XXIL    Dilder 


»  leads  to 


Oueof  U 


St.  FnnGrns  suSbred  martyrdom  f 
the  other  leads  to  the  entrance  of  Om 
catacombs  of  CaUpodius,  celebrated 
in  ecclesiastical  history  as  the  burial' 
place  of  many  early  martyrs. 
/  S.  Paala  atli  tn  FontoHt,  beyotid' 
the  Basilica  of  3.  Paolo  fuori  le  Muf^ 
built  oc  the  spot  where  SL  Paul  Is 
said  to  have  been  beheaded,  aooiently 
called  Ad  Aqwa  Sali'iai.  The  pi^. 
sent  church  was  built  by  Otr^Bl 
Aldohrandini,  from  the  designs  of 
Glacomo  della  Porto,  in  159a  Tlie 
interior  is  remarkBhle  for  the  three 

tion  to  have   sprimg   up  wliete 
ilieaA  at  \.Ve  a^miAe  hounded   three 


JPa^pal  States,  ]    route  27.  —  home. — Churches. 


436 


times  firom  the  earth.  It  contains 
also  the  block  of  marble  on  which  he 
was  beheaded.  The  black  porphyry 
columns  of  the  altar  of  St.  Paul  are 
said  to  be  unique  in  size.  Close  to 
this  church  are  two  others,  dating 
from  the  early  times  of  Christianity. 
The  first  of  these,  jS^.  Vincenzo  ed  Anas- 
tasio,  was  built  in  624  by  Honorius 
I.,  and  repaired  in  796  by  Leo  III. 
On  the  pilasters  of  the  nave  are  the 
frescoes  of  the  Twelve  Apostles, 
painted  from  the  designs  of  Raphael 
by  his  scholars :  they  are  fine,  digni- 
fied  figures,  but  are  greatly  damaged. 
The  third  church,  called  S.  Maria 
Scaia  Cceli,  is  built  on  the  cemetery  of 
St.  Zeno,  in  which  were  buried  the 
12,000  Christian  martyrs  who  had 
been  employed,  as  the  legend  states, 
in  building  the  Baths  of  Diocletian. 
It  was  restored  in  1582  by  Cardinal 
Famese,  from  the  designs  of  Vignola, 
and  completed  by  Giacomo  della 
Porta.  It  is  an  octagonal  building, 
with  a  cupola.  The  tribune  is  re- 
markable for  its  mosaics,  by  Fran« 
cesco  Zucca,  of  Florence:  they  are 
considered  to  be  the  first  work  of  good 
taste  executed  by  the  moderns  in  that 
class  of  art. 

S.  Pietro  in  Montorio,  founded  by 
Constant!  ne  near  the  spot  where  St. 
Peter  was  crucified,  and  rebuilt  by 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  of  Spain,  from 
the  designs  of  Baccio  Pintelli.  This 
interesting  church  narrowly  escaped 
utter  demolition  during  the  siege  of 
Rome  in  1849.  It  was  fortified  and 
occupied  by  Garibaldi,  as  the  head- 
quarters of  his  cavalry,  and  the  altars 
were  recklessly  profiined  and  plun- 
dered. From  its  vicinity  to  the  Porta 
San  Pancrazio,  it  was  also  exposed  to 
the  fire  of  the  besiegers,  and  the  walls 
of  several  chapels  and  the  roof  bear 
many  marks  of  French  balls.  Among 
the  parts  which  happily  escaped  injury 
is  the  Borgherini  chapel  (first  on  the 
right),  celebrated  for  the  paintings  of 
SeboMiiano  dd  Plombo^  executed  from 
the  designs  of  Michael  Angela  Va- 
sari  telU  us  that  they  were  the  result 
of  a  combination  between  these  two 


painters,  for  the  purpose  of  counteract- 
ing the  partiality  evinced  at  Rome 
for  Raphael.  Lanzi  says  upon  this 
point,  that  "he  knows  not  that  he  is 
called  upon  to  give  an  opinion  on  an 
assertion,  which,  if  we  disbelieve  it, 
casts  an  imputation  on  the  historian, 
and  which,  if  we  admit  it,  does  no 
credit  to  Michael  Angelo.**  The 
principal  subject  is  the  Flagellation 
of  the  Saviour.  The  frescoes  on  the 
roof  represent  the  Transfiguration. 
These  works  cost  Sebastian  the  labour 
of  six  years.  Lanzi  says  that  he 
painted  the  Flagellation  in  the  new 
method  he  had  invented  of  painting 
in  oils  on  stone ;  **  a  work,**  he  says, 
*'  as  much  blackened  by  time,  as  the 
frescoes  which  he  executed  in  the 
same  church  are  well  preserved.**  Of 
the  other  works  of  art  which  were  in 
the  building  prior  to  1849,  there  is 
scarcely  one  which  was  not  either  de- 
stroyed or  greatly  damaged  during 
its  occupation  by  Garibaldi's  soldiery. 
They  were  not,  it  is  true,  of  any  great 
value)  but  a  simple  record  of  them  in 
the  order  in  which  they  occurred 
may  interest  some  of  our  readers. 
The  conversion  of  St.  Paul  in  the 
chapel  of  S.  Paolo  (last  on  the  right), 
next  to  the  side  door,  was  by  Giorgio 
Vasarif  who  introduced  his  own  por- 
trait: the  statues  of  Religion  and 
Justice  were  designed  by  him,  and 
sculptured  by  Bartolommeo  Ammanato, 
The  chapel  of  St.  John  the  Baptist 
(fifth  on  the  lefl)  was  painted  by 
Francesco  Salviati:  the  statues  of 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  were  by  DanieU 
da  Volterra  and  Lionardo  da  Milano, 
bis  pupil.  The  balustrade  of  giallo 
antico  was  constructed  out  of  the 
columns  found  in  the  gardens  of  Sal- 
lust.  The  Dead  Christ,  and  the  dif- 
ferent subjects  of  the  Passion  in  the 
next  chapel  (fourth  on  the  left),  was 
attributed  to  Vandyke  on  dight 
authority,  but  their  real  author  was 
unknown.  The  St  Francis  receiving 
the  Stigmata,  in  the  first  chapel  on 
the  left,  was  by  Giovanni  de*  Vecchi 
Behind  the  high  altar  was  a  small 
Madoima  tnd  OvM«  vkA  \a  \)»  \b^ 


-Churehm, 


tSeeC'l 


ti  inviuon,  the  Tniutigur 
pliwl  (tiMid  nt  the  high  all. 
lulthj  sod  Sebssl'        '  '  "^ 


>e  Raiaidj 
1  OUT  Na 


!  Louvre  I 


d  Gallery.     On  Ihi 
■fl|{u»liaD  from  ' 
laced   in    the   Vaiirnn,    ina 
a  snnted  to  the  church  « 
.    Tbii  church  hi 
Iriih  trayeller,  i 
cantalniog    (he  grsves  of  O'Neil  of 
Tyrone,  and  O'Donoell  of  Tyrcon 
(tfiOB).      In  the  cloirter  of  the 
Joining  convent  h   Braraante'i   c 
bnted  Temple,  built  nt  the  eipi 
oT  Ferdinand  of  Spain,  on  the  pre 
■pot  on  which  SI.  Peter  it  uid  to  1 
Miffered    mirtyrdoDi.     It  i*  ■  araall 


^  from 

^HVupi 

^■^hat 


1849,   as   one   of  the   French 

I  feel  of  il.  Tl 
from  the  platform  in  front  of  San 
^^etto  in  Montorio  can  hardly  h 
lasseil:  it  is  to  nnodcrn  Itomi 
e  view  from  the  CapitiH  is  W 
Borne:  and  sCrangers  should 
take  an  early  opportunity  of  vi«ting 
the  apot,  in  order  to  acquire  a  know, 
ledge  of  Ihe  localities  and  principal 
buildings  of  the  modern  city. 

S.  PiUra  in  FJufli/f,  built  in  442, 
during  Ihe  pontificate  uf  Leo  the 
Great,  by  Eudoiia,  wifu  of  Valen- 
tinian  III.,to  prenrvc  Ilie  chain  with 
whioh  St.  Peter  was  bound  at  Jeru- 
salem. It  irai  repaired  by  Pelagius  I. 
in  S5S,  as  we  learn  bj  an  inscription 
in  the  church;  rebuilt  by  Adrian  I. 
in  the  8lh  century ;  and  restored  in 
1503  by  Julius  II,,  from  the  designs 
of  Baccio  Pintelli.  In  1705  il  was 
leduced  to  its  present  ibrra  by  Fran. 
ceseo  Fontana.  It  is  a  majestic  edi- 
ficc,  conaisting  of  a  nave  separated 
from  two  side  aisles  by  twenty  ancient  | 
■  fplaiaas   of  CJrccian   marble  of  the' 


Dtric  order,  T  feet  in  ciicutnfere 
The  chief  interest  of  this  churvli  i» 
derived  from  the  Mosks  of  Miduut 
jinfftlo,  one  of  Ihe  most  celcbiBted 
creations  of  his  gigantic  genius.  II 
was  intended  to  form  a  part  of  Ihd 
magnificent  Iamb  of  Julius  II.,  the 
plan  of  which  was  hi  imposing  thot 

to  undertalie  the  rebuilding  ttf  St 
Peter's.  Michael  Angelo'i  deiiga 
was  a  parBllelogram,  surmounted  bj 
forty  atstues,  and  covered  wilb  ba^ 
relicfe  and  other  ornaments.  The  on: 
lossal  statue  of  Moees  was  to  .bare 
been  placed  upon  it.  The  f  iiasntudea 
of  this  monument  form  one  of  Ost 
laml  Durious  chapters  in  the  liistott 
of  art.  The  quarrel  of  Michael  An>- 
gcio  with  the  pope  suspended  tiM 
progress  of  the  work  for  two  veati; 

sculptor  returned  to  Rome,  and 
tinued  the  work  until  the  death  of 
the  pope  in  1313.  It  was  then 
pended  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
reign  of  Leo  X.,  and  waa  not  birlf 
resumed  until  his  death.  The 
ginal  design,  after  all  these  io 
ruplions,  was  never  eiecutedi  Miobael 
Angelu  had  only  completed  at  bit 
death  Ihe  sUtue  of  Moses  am'  " 
two  figures  supposed  to  represent 
Religion  and  Virtue.  These  1 
placed,  not  in  the  basilica  of  St.  Petet^ 
as  originally  intended,  1ml  in   ItaSr 

tion !  two  of  the  fifjures  of  tUveti 
which  were  intended  to  serve  as  Ca- 
ryatides of  the  monument,  are  .. 
in  Paris,  and  the  third  is  in  the  Bor 
boli  gardens  at  Florence.  To  eoin- 
plele  Ibis  list  of  misidventurei 
pope  is  not  buried  nesr  hi«  n 
meot,  but  in  Ihe  Vatican.  These 
facts  are  necessary  to  be  bori 
mind,  bceanse  the  Moses  is  n 
adrantageoualy  seen  as  it  would  have 
been  if  surrounded  by  all  the  i 
soriesofafinishedmonument.  There 
are  few  works  of  art  which  have  1 
more  severely  criticised ;  but  in  ■ 
all  that  has  been  advanced,   ' 


isible  n 


:  Id  b 


Papal  States J\    route  2Y.  —  rome.  — Churches, 


437 


commanding  expression  and  colossal 
proportions.  The  hands  and  arms, 
with  the  exception  of  a  slight  ana- 
tomical error  in  the  left  arm,  are 
extremely  fine,  and  rival  the  grandest 
productions  of  the  Grecian  chisel. 
"  Here  sits,"  says  Forsyth,  **  the  Moses 
of  Michael  Angelo,  frowning  with  the 
terrific  eyebrows  of  Olympian  Jove. 
Homer  and  Phidias,  indeed,  placed 
their  god  on  a  golden  throne ;  but 
Moses  is  cribbed  into  a  niche,  like  a 
prebendary  in  his  stall.  Much  wit 
has  been  levelled  of  late  at  his  flow- 
ing l)eard  and  his  flaming  horns.  One 
critic  compares  his  head  to  a  goat's ; 
another,  his  dress  to  a  galley -slave's. 
But  the  true  sublime  resists  all  ridi- 
cule :  the  offended  lawgiver  frowns 
on  unrepresscd,  and  awes  you  with 
inherent  authority."  The  celebrated 
sonnet  of  Giambattista  Zappi  on  the 
Moses  is  justly  considered  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  Italian  language : 

"  Chi  d  costui  che  in  el  gran  pietra  scolto 
Siedc  gigante  e  le  piil  illustri  e  conte 
()prc  lieir  arte  avanza,  e  ha  vive  e  pronte 
Lc  labbra  e1  che  le  parole  ascolto  ? 

Que&t  h  Mosd,  hen  mel  dimostra  il  folto 
Onor  del    mcnto,  e'l  doppio  raggio  in 

fronte: 
Quest  d  Mose  quando  scendea  dal  monte, 
b  gran  parte  del  Nume  avea  nel  volto. 

Tal  era  allor  che  le  sonanti  e  vaate 
Acque  ei  gospese  a  se  d'intorno  e  tale 
Quando  il  mar  chiuse,  e  ne  fe  tomba 
altrui. 

E  voi,  gue  turtle,  un  rio  vitello  alzaste? 
Atzato  aveste  imago  a  questa  eguale, 
Ch*  era  men  falio  1'  adorar  costui.'* 

The  Prophet  and  the  Sybil  in  the  niches 
are  by  Uaffaele  da  MontelupOt  Michael 
Angelo's  able  pupil.  At  the  first 
altar  on  the  right  hand  is  the  picture 
of  St.  Augustin,  by  Guercino,  Near 
it  are  the  tombs  of  Cardinal  Margotti 
and  of  Cardinal  Agucci,  from  the 
designs  of  Domenichitio^  who  painted 
their  portraits.  The  Deliverance  of 
St.  Peter,  at  the  altar,  is  a  copy  of 
the  picture  by  this  master  now  pre- 
served in  the  sacristy.  Ilie  chapel 
beyond  the  Moses  contains  the  finely 
finished  picture  of  St.  Margaret,  by 
Guereino,  The  tribune  is  painted  by 
Jactipo  Coppi,  the  Florentine  painter 
of  the  16th  century:   it  contains  an 


ancient  bishop's  seat  of  white  marble. 
In  the  side  aisle  is  a  mosaic  of  St  Se- 
bastian, of  the  year  680,  in  which  he 
is  represented  with  a  beard.  The 
Deliverance  of  St.  Peter,  in  the  sa- 
cristy, is  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
works  of  the  younger  days  of  Dome- 
nichino.  In  the  sacristy  also  is  the 
celebrated  Hope  of  Guido,  perhaps 
the  most  beautiful  of  his  smaller 
works.  At  the  left  entrance  of  the 
church  is  a  bas-relief  of  St.  Peter  and 
the  Angel,  executed  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury for  Cardinal  Cusani,  whose  grave- 
stone is  seen  near  it.  The  chains 
which  give  name  to  the  church  are 
not  shown  to  strangers,  but  are  pub- 
licly exhibited  to  the  people  on  the 
Festival  of  St.  Peter  in  Vinculis,  on 
the  1st  August.  In  this  church  Hilde- 
brand  was  crowned  pope  under  the 
title  of  Gregory  VII.  in  1073.  The 
adjoining  convent  was  built  by  Giu- 
liano  Sangallo,  and  the  cistern  in  the 
court  was  designed  by  Michael  An- 
gelo. The  street  of  S.  Francesco  di 
Paola,  which  leads  from  S.  Pietro  in 
Vincoli  to  the  Piazza  Suburra,  is 
supposed  to  correspond  with  the  Victu 
Sceleratus,  infamous  in  Roman  his- 
tory as  the  scene  of  the  impiety  of 
Tullia,  who  there  drove  her  car  over 
the  dead  body  of  her  &ther  Servius 
Tullius,  after  he  had  been  assassi- 
nated by  her  husband  Tarquin. 

S.  Prassede,  founded  on  the  site  of 
a  small  oratory  built  here  by  Pius  I. 
A.  D.  160,  as  a  place  of  security  to 
which  the  early  Christians  might  re- 
tire during  the  persecutions.  The 
present  church  was  built  in  822  by 
Paschal  I.,  restored  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury by  Nicholas  V.,  and  modernised 
by  Cardinal  Borromeo,  who  was  ti- 
tulary of  the  church.  It  is  remarkable 
as  the  scene  of  the  attack  of  the 
Frangipani  on  Pope  Gelasius  II.  in 
1118.  At  the  entrance  of  the  court 
is  an  ancient  vestibule,  with  two  an- 
tique granite  columns.  The  interior 
presents  a  nave  divided  from  two  side 
aisles  by  sixteen  columns  of  granite, 
with  Corinthian  capital&i  i>r\\vc.V\  bcv^^ 
bitd»  m  \}tim  ^o\vgi%^»  T^'t  \.\'C^w'Wfe  Na 


nOtTE  27- —  noMK, — ChntXfs: 


A  lij  ■  doublu  fliRlit  or  slepi. 
rtnpoml  cfitinily  of  large  blucka  of 
.MO  anftew,  nid  to  be  the  largftt 
Mvn.  The  monies  of  ihe  tritium 
iDBnl  to  the  original  buililinj 


bil  I., 


refore  of  tl 


li  aenlurjr.  tJiulei  ilie  side  gilli 
K  6  plUin  of  while  ourbte,  renuick- 
|bl>  Air  their  orniimenta,  appBrentl^ 
■Mliqiic  la  the  left  aidi^  aisle  is  ihe 
wrble  lUb  on  whicLi  S.  Prvuede 
_  pt,  and  in  Ibe  middle  of  the  luve 
b  •  well  in  irliicb  the  n  nid  to  have 
dlecUd  Ihe  blood  of  the  martyn 
MitateA  on  lliii  bill  Tbe 
on  tbe  ri|;hl  ii  that  of 
8.  Zeno,'  called  from  iti  beauty  lu 
lurmer limH the  "Onto del  Paradiso:" 
it  eontaini  *  portion  of  a  column  of 
OricMal  jatpet,  brought  liom  Jeru- 
Hlem  by  Curdiiul  Colonna  in  1233. 
and  said  by  the  church  iradltic 


he  11 


colur 


o  whici 


of  St.  Zeni 


t  the  flagellf 
cootaiiu  aira  (he 
mtityri,    hesidei 
■nd  St.  ValentUii 
Cardinal    Cctii  <14T4),    in    the 
chapel  on  (he  tighl,  irith  portraili 
hinuelf,  8l.  Peter,  and  Sl  Paul,  i 
Matuea  of  &  Fraasede  and  S.  Pud 
liana,  is  interesiting  as  a  n-ork  of 
of  the  ISIh  century.     The  tomb  of 
Cardinal  Anehera  bears  the  date  13 
The  Srd  cliapet  on  the  left  conta 
a  picture  by  Fiderigo  ZuaaH:   on  i 
roofis  tbeAHTen5ion,by  Caa-Jilrpi 
The  eonfeaaional  has  four  sarcopha;^! 
of  the  early  ChriMians,  some  of  which 
are  rudely  sculptured.      The  sacristy 
contains  a  bad  picture  of  Christ  a(  the 
Column,   altributcd,  probably  wilb- 
DUl  tbundalion,    to    Gitdia    Htmimo. 
Among  (he  relics  not  sliown  here  is 
Ihe    Portrait  of  the  Saiiour,  which 
St.  Peter  is  said  to  have  presented  la 
Pudens,  the  father  of  S.  Prassede  and 
a.  Pudeiwlana.    The  church  tradition 
tdli  us  that    Pudens   was   the    first 
person  whom  St.  Paul  converted  to 
Chrbtianityin  Rome;  that  the  aposlte 
lodged   in    his   house   from  (ho  first 
year  of  Claudius  to  the  ninth,  and 


wcond  lime  to  Rome.  The  depallur 
of  the  Jevs  from  Rome  is  inentioael 
in  Aeli,  ttiil  3. :  "  because  that  Clau- 
dius had  commanded  all  Jews  to  de- 
part from  Rome."  The  apostle  men- 
lions  Pudens  in  the  Second  Epiille  to 
Timothy,  iv.  SI.;  "  Eubulus  greettlb 
(hee,  and  Pudeos,  and  linui,  a 
CUudiB,and  all  the  brethren."  Lima 
is  considered  by  ecclesiastical  histo- 
rians  as  tbe  first  pope  a 
of  St  Peter  ;  CUudia  i> 
(be  wife  of  Pudens,  and  the  daughter 
of  the  Briiiib  chief  Cara. 

Priaralo.  the  church  of  the  priorj' 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  on  the 
Aientioe.  (See  S.  Maria  Aventioa.) 

S  Fritca,  on  the  Aventioe,  a  Tory 
■ncienl  church,  said  (o  occupy  the  £il 
o(  tbe  house  in  which  St.  Prisea 
bapdzed  by  St,  Peter.  1(  was  a 
crated  by  pope  S.  Eulychiiis  in  SOU, 
Slid  rtliuik  or  restored  by  C  "  ' 
Giustiniani  from  the  designs  of  Carlo 
LomlHudi.  Tt  has  twenty-four 
columns  in  the  nave,  and  at  the  lu^ 
alUr  Ihe  Bapli^m  of  the  Saint,  by  F 
itifiuni.     In  an  adjoining  vineyud  aif 

dud,  the  specus  of  which  may  be  « 

S.  Pudmiiaiui,  said  by  the  tradition 
to  occupy  the  site  of  the  house  of  Pu- 
dens, mentioned  In  the  acconnt  of  & 
Prasaede.  Thechurch wasfoundedb; 
Pius  I.,  *.n.  HI.  It  was  either  re- 
stored  or  rebuilt  in  Ihe  Bth  oenturr 
hy  Adrian  I.,  and  entirely  moderilised 
hy  Cardinal  Caeiani  in  l^gS.  It  bu 
ided  Irom  side  aialei  by  [u- 


■B,  betw. 


which  ai 


larble  columns.  It  is  supposed 
i(  inose  columns  belonged  totbefirtf 
urcb,  which  does  not  appear  to  ban 


ippcan 


IS  lbs 

bich  were  added  by  Adrian  I. 
«ics  are  well  preaerredi  they 
Idered  by  Foussin  lo  ha  the 
B  early  age  in  Rome.  Th> 
\fiiii«.\i\g-.  of  the  roof  are  by  NieeolS 


JPapai  States.'}     route  27. — rome. — Churches, 


439 


the  chapels  of  the  side  aisle  is  an  altar> 
at  which  the  church  tradition  says  that 
St.  Peter  officiated.  A  well  is  also 
shown  in  front  of  the  Caetani  chapel, 
in  which  S.  Pudenziana  is  said  to  have 
preserved  the  blood  of  SOOO  martyrs 
who  are  buried  in  the  church ! 

S.  Sahoy  on  the  Aventine,  a  very 
ancient  church,  standing  isolated  on 
the  southern  summit  of  the  hill.  It  is 
more  remarkable  for  its  position  and 
for  the  view  from  its  portico  than  for  its 
architecture.  1 1  contains  some  ancient 
sarcophagi,  and  some  paintings  of  the 
14th  century.  The  convent  walls  have 
all  the  appearance  of  a  fortification, 
both  in  strength  and  extent. 

S,  Sabinttf  on  the  A  ventine,  supposed 
to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Temple  of 
Juno  Regina.  It  was  formerly  sup- 
posed that  the  Temple  of  Diana  stood 
upon  this  spot,  but  the  ancient  topo- 
graphy of  the  Aventine  is  so  obscure, 
that  it  would  be  a  hopeless  task  to  fol- 
low the  speculations  of  the  antiquaries. 
Both  temples  are  now  believed,  from 
the  expressions  of  the  classical  writers, 
to  have  stood  upon  this  summit  of  the 
bill.  S.  Sabina  was  built  in  the  form 
of  a  basilica  in  423,  by  Peter,  an  Illy- 
rian  priest,  on  the  site  of  the  house  of 
St.  Sabina,  as  we  learn  by  an  inscrip- 
tion in  mosaic  over  the  principal  door. 
It  has  been  restored  at  various  times, 
and  has  lost  a  great  deal  of  its  original 
character.  It  was  reduced  to  its  pre- 
sent form  by  Sixtus  V.  in  1587.  It 
has  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles,  sepa- 
rated by  twenty-four  fluted  columns 
of  white  Grecian  marble,  of  the  Co- 
rinthian order,  with  attic  bases.  Arches 
spring  from  the  columns,  as  in  all  the 
basilicas.  The  last  chapel  on  the  right 
contains  the  fine  picture  of  the  Virgin 
of  the  Rosary,  S.  Domenico,  and  St. 
Catherine  «f  Siena,  by  Sassoferraio, 
Lansi  mentions  it  as  an  instance  of 
his  partiality  for  small  pictures.  **  It 
is,  however,"  he  says,  •*  well  composed, 
and  painted  con  amortf  insomuch  that 
it  is  looked  upon  as  a  perfect  jewel.** 
Between  the  church  and  the  cloisters 
of  the  monastery  is  a  hall,  with  spiral 
columns :  from  tbia  side  we  may  exaf- 


mine  the  richly-sculptured  doorway  of 
white  marble,  supposed  to  be  the  work 
of  the  12th  century.  In  the  fore- 
court are  some  early  Christian  sculp- 
tures and  inscriptions.  In  the  gardens 
of  the  monastery  is  an  olive-tree,  said 
to  have  been  planted  by  S.  Domenico, 
From  the  corridor  there  is  a  6ne  view 
of  all  the  southern  quarter  of  Rome. 
On  the  steep  declivity  beneath  the  mo- 
nastery are  extensive  ruins  of  brick- 
work, of  which  nothing  is  known. 
The  Cave  of  Cacus  is  placed  on  thb 
side  of  the  bill  by  those  antiquaries 
who  endeavour  to  give  a  real  existence 
to  the  imagination  of  the  poets.  Near 
S.  Sabina  are  the  churches  of  S. 
Alessio  and  S.  Maria  Aventina,  or  the 
Priorato,  both  of  which  are  noticed 
under  their  proper  heads.  In  front 
of  this  church  the  Romans,  during  the 
French  siege  of  1849,  erected  one  of 
their  most  formidable  batteries,  and 
the  facade  of  the  church  sustained 
some  damage  from  the  French  artil- 
lery, which  endeavoured  in  vain  to 
silence  it.  In  the  vineyards  on  this 
summit  of  the  Aventine  some  inte- 
resting antiquities  have  been  found, 
among  which  are  the  bas-relief  of  the 
Endymion,  and  the  infant  Hercules  in 
basalt,  in  the  Capitoline  Museum; 
Diana  of  Ephcsus  in  Oriental  alabaster, 
and  several  fragments  of  mosaic  pave- 
ments relating  to  hunting  and  to  other 
attributes  of  Diana. 

S.  SUvestro  di  Monte  CavaUoy  belong- 
ing to  the  priests  of  the  mission,  is  re- 
markable for  the  four  circular  paint- 
ings on  the  pendentives  of  the  cupola 
of  the  second  chapel,  by  Domenichino, 
They  represent  David  dancing  before 
the  Ark,  the  Queen  of  Sheba  sitting 
with  Solomon  on  the  Throne,  Judith 
showing  the  Head  of  Holofernes,  and 
Esther  in  a  swoon  before  Ahasucrus. 
Lanzi  classes  them  among  his  finest 
frescoes,  and  says,  that  for  the  compo- 
sition and  the  style  of  the  drapery,  they 
are  by  some  preferred  to  all  the  rest. 
In  another  chapel  is  the  Assumption, 
considered  the  best  work  of  Scipume 
Gaetani,  The  last  chapel  but  one  has 
a  roof  pamled.  \a>|  Caia.  *  Arg\i*o^  *»^ 

IS   \ 


wflfrwit.— iWME.— *CT««*e9. 


iilnllngion  llie  lutnul  walUliy 
r0  da  Oiravaffgio.     llie  cnrdi- 
cet  in  procession  nt  tbU  church. 
■cTiouilj  Id  their  going  in  proceuinn  ! 
lie  eunclsie. 

'.  Slrfuna  Hubmib,  on  ihe  vnlem 

-'traftheCcliuiliJll,oneafthH 

narkabli!  cliurcbn  in  Kome.  [ 

J  luppowd  lo  be  an  uncieiil  lem-  , 

t  bul  the  bad  construction  of  (he 

J.  the  unequal  hvight  and  dif- 

It  orders  of  the  columns  ■"<)  the 

i  which  ii  Tiaible  on  some  of  tbe  | 

Lali,  etidenll;  (huw  ihsl  it  cannot 

eTened  to  clnstical  limes.      It  is ' 

n  from  Anastatius  tlial  8.  Sim- ' 

I  dnticated  it  in  4H1,  and  it  it  | 

V  gencratlf  regarded  is  a  building  ' 

tw  perioiL    'I^L'  Dame  eiprcBea  its  ! 

ButaTrorm.  The  iniercjlumniations 

*e  outer  peristyle  were  6Ilcd  up  by 

pcholai  V.  (144T),  to  form  the  outer 

IkII  of  the  present  building.   'Hie  in- 

'w,  133  Diet  in  diameter.  ba>  fiftr-six 

uniiu  of  granite  and  marble,  partly 

Ionic  and  partly  Corinthian  ;  tbirly- 

twenly  in  tbe  inner.  The  former  bBTc 
•  Bcriis  of  low  arches  springing  fri 
ihem.  In  the  central  aro  are  two  I 
linoni  higher  than  the  rest,  supporting 
a  orov  vail,  vhich  is  supposed  to  havt 
been  intended  In  sustain  the  roar,  Tht 
plan  and  details  of  this  curious  build- 
ing nre  gitcn  by  Deogodeti,  who  eia- 

clarcd  bis  inability  to  determine  what 
liind  ofioof  it  origin.-illy  had, 


ind  ofioof  it  origin.-iIly  had,  sinoethe 


TU 


lorkable.  as  be 

■ly "Gothic  buildings.  Tile  walla  are 
COrerod  with  frcMOijs  by  f^iccoli  Cir. 
dgnaai  (Pomarancio)  and  Tempeata, 
representing  the  martyrdoms  of  diSiir- 

are  displeasing  to  the  eye  and  imagi- 
Luuion,   without  ha\ing   any   recnm- 
btiont  as  worltB  of  art.      In  the 
el  of  a.  Primus  and  S.  Felix  are 

.e   Ith   century. 

p  irbich  GregoTj  tlie  Great  Li  saiil  to 


have  preached.  Tlie  church  ii 
tremeiy  damp,  and  is  oaly  opened  for 
divino  service  eoily  on  Sunday  itwrn- 
ings,  and  on  the  S6th  of  Deccmtwr. 

S.  Tivhra,  commonly  colled  S.  Tt^- 
lo.  a  circular  buildingatthe  southern 
citrcmily  of  the  Forum,  under  lhe> 
Palatine  hill,  supposed  by  the  older 
sDiiquariei  to  mark  the  si(«  of  the 
Temple  oT  VeiOa,  but  now  regarded 
ns  the  Temple  of  Romulua.  *" 
preicnt  building  shows  by  its 
struclion  that  it  belongs  to  the  de- 
been  built  by  Adrian  I.  in  tha 
century,  restored  by  Nicholas  V.  In 
1450,  anil  by  Clement  XL  in  ITOO. 
The  mosaio  of  the  tribune  ore  of  fiH 
lime  of  Adrian  I.  The  claima  of  ibi* 
ohurch  to  be  coniideied  an  uii  ~ 
temple  are  fully  cnnsidtted  in  the  de- 
sotiptionof  the  AniiquitiesCp.  338.). 

S.  Tommiuo  degli  Ini/Uii,  not  br 
from  the  Furoese  and  Falconicri  p»F 
laccB,  was  ntlaebcd  to  the  Sngliiti 
college,  but  was  desecrated  under  llift 
French  repubUe.  The  college 
been  restored,  but  not  tlie  diUTObi 
which  was  founded  in  775  by  OWt, 
I  king  of  the  East  8a>ons,  and  <'  " 
caled  lo  the  Holy  Trinity.  A  hi 
lal  was  ofterwarrls  built  by  a  wealUlf 
Englishman,  John  Scoppard,  fbr  Bl»> 
glisb  pilgrims.  The  church  waade* 
strayed  by  (ire  in  8  J  7,  and  rebuilt  by 
Egbert.  Thorn  u-^'Becket,  during' 
his  vi^t  to  Itome,  lodged  in  the  hos- 
pital;  and  on  his  canonisation  ty 
Alexander  III.,  two  years  aftiiT  bis 
death,  the  church  was  dedicated,  to 
him  as  St.  Thomas  of  Canterbury.  In 
addition  to  this  institution,  anoditf 
hospital  and  a  church,  dedicated  to 
St.  Edmund,  king  and  mailyr,  were 
founded  by  an  English  merchant. 
near  the  Hipa  Grande,  (az  llielicnelit 
orEnglishsailaissrrivingat  Romel 
sea  ;  but  as  the  commi^rce  of  the  t« 
countries  declined,  the  new  estnbliah- 
inents  wt're  ineorporated  wiih  those 
of  St,  Thomas.  The  united  hospitals 
were  convecled  into  n  college  for  En~ 
glisb  missionaries  by  Gregory  XIII. 
in  \  51 5,  an4  *m  KtvMTCh  was  i  " 


Papal  Stales,']    r ou f  e  27.  —  Rome. — Churches, 


441 


wards  rebuilt  by  Cardinal  Howard. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  endowed  with 
considerable  property  by  John  Scop- 
pard  above-mentioned.  The  hall  of 
the  college  contains  some  curious 
portraits  of  the  Roman  Catholics  who 
were  put  to 
Henry  VII 

the  arms  of  a  Becket  is  shown  among 
the  relics.  On  the  29th  December, 
the  Festival  of  St.  Thomas-a- Becket, 
high  mass  is  performed  in  the  college 
chapel  in  the  presence  of  the  cardi- 
nals. 

Trinitd.  de"  Monti,  well  known  to 
English  visitors  from  its  conspicuous 
position  above  the  Piazza  di  Spagna, 
and   from    the  fine  staircase  of  135 
steps  which  leads  to  it  (p.  378.).    The 
church  was  built  in  1495  by  Charles 
VIII.,  king  of  France,  at  the  request 
of  S.  Francesco  di  Paola.    It  suffered 
severely   at  the  time  of  the  French 
revolution,    and   was    abandoned  in 
1798,   but   was    restored    by    Louis 
XVIII.,  from  the  designs  of  Mazois. 
It  now  belongs  to  a  convent  of  nuns, 
who  devote  themselves  to  the  educa- 
tion  of  the  children  of  the  higher 
classes.     It   is  closed  afler   morning 
prayers,  but  strangers  are  admitted 
at  the  side  door.     In  the  second  cha- 
pel on  the  right  hand  is  the  picture  of 
Chiist  giving  the  keys  to  St.  Peter, 
by  3/.  Ingres,  of  the  French  Academy. 
In  the  third  chapel  are  the  Assump- 
tion, the  Presentation  in  the  Temple, 
and  the  Massacre  of  the  Innocents, 
by    Daniele   da    Vblterra,       The    As- 
sumption has   suffered  considerably, 
and   a  great  part  of  it  has  entirely 
disappeared:    on    the   right  we  may 
still  recognise  the  portrait  of  Michael 
Angelo.     The  Massacre  of  the  Inno- 
cents is  better  preserved.      The  great 
piiinting  of  this  church  is  the  Dcscent 
FROM  THE   Cross,  the  masterpiece  of 
Daniele  da  Vol  terra;  executed  with 
the   assistance   of    ISIichael    Angelo, 
and  considered  by  Poussin  to  be  the 
third  greatest  picture  in  the  world, 
inferior  only    to    Ilaphaers    Transfi- 
guration, and  to  the   St  Jerome  of 
DomcnichjDo.      •*  We  might,"  says 


Lanzi,  **  almost  fancy  ourselves  spec- 
tators of  the  mournful  scene, — the 
Redeemer,  while  being  removed  from 
the  cross,  gradually  sinking  down 
with  all  that  relaxation  of  limb  and 


utter  helplessness  which  belongs  to  a 
3  death  in  the  reigns  ofl  dead  body;  the  assistants  engaged  in 
I.  and  Elizabeth.   One  of  their  various  duties,  and  thrown  into 

different  and  contrasted  attitudes,  in- 
tently occupied  with  the  sacred  re- 
mains which  they  so  reverently  gaze 
upon ;   the   mother  of  the   Lord  in 
a  swoon   amidst   her  afflicted    com- 
panions ;  the  disciple  whom  he  loved 
standing  with  outstretched  arms,  ab- 
sorbed in  contemplating  the  myste- 
rious spectacle.     The  truth  in  the  re- 
presentation of  the  exposed  parts  of  the 
body  appears  to  be  nature  itself.  The 
colouring  of  the  heads   and  of  the 
whole  picture  accords  precisely  with 
the  subject,  displaying  strength  ra- 
ther than  delicacy,  a  harmony,  and  in 
short  a  degree  of  skill,  of  which  M. 
Angelo   himself    might    have    been 
proud,  if  the   picture  had  been  in- 
scribed with  his  name.     And  to  this 
I  suspect  the  author  alluded,  when  he 
painted  his   friend  with   a   looking- 
glass  near  it,  as  if  to  intimate  that  he 
might   recognise    in    the   picture    a 
reflection  of  himself."     A  few  years 
ago    the   fresco   was   detached   from 
the  wall  and   removed  to   the   first 
chapel  on   the  left.     The  fifth  cha- 
pel  contains  a  Noli-me-tangere,  by 
Giidio  Romano.     The  other  pictures 
in  this  church  are  chiefly  by  students 
of  the    French    Academy,   many   of 
whom  have  since  risen  to  eminence. 
In  the  third   chapel   on    the   left  is 
a  Madonna  by  Veit, 

Trinitd  de*  Pellegrini,  in  the  Traste- 
vere,  built  in  1614,  with  a  tR9ade  de- 
signed by  Francesco  de*  Snnntis.  It 
is  remarkable  chiefly  as  containing 
the  celebrated  picture  of  the  Trinity, 
by  Guide;  a  Madonna  and  Child 
with  Saints,  by  Cav,  d'Arpino ,-  and 
the  St.  Francis,  by  Giovanni  de*  Vecchi, 
On  the  Wednesday,  Thursday,  and 
Friday  of  Holy  Week,  the  Koman 
nobility  and  several  of  the  cardinals 
asaembXe  Vci  XVi\&  «\vvit<^  «xA^«^'*^% 


HOUTB  ?7.' — tirmr. — Pitlatet;  AeVattran.  ' 


joor  pilgrimi.  Tlie  1 
I  nisjr  slnj  be  uen  hf 
cwioni,  performing  1 
ir  the  fensttle  pilgtiun. 


■ddi- 


PitlC 


Tm  V*Ttc«ii. — There  ii  00  pa- 
bec  in  ihc  world  wliicb  ippmachw 
I'ibi  VtlUin  in  inlercst,  wtwlher  we 
I  lagard  it>  prominent  poiition  in  ihe 
fciMDTj  of  tin  OiUTcli,  or  the  ioSu- 
enee  excreiied  bj  ill  niiiBeuTnt  on  the 
Inming  ond  UsU  of  Chrialendom  for 
mail;  300  ynn.  It  is  ■□  immenie 
[u]e  of  buildingt.  irrefjulir  in  their 
pbii,  and  composed  of  psrta  con- 
Mnicted  at  difTerent  times,  without  a 
due  T^ard  to  thv  general  haiman; 
of  tbt  whole.  There  ie«ms  to  have 
been  a  palace  attached  to  the  Baeilica 
oT  St.  Peter's  from  4  very  early  pe- 
riod, probably  as  early  as  the  lime  of 
Conslanlinc.  Il  is  iguite  clear  that 
tbe  palace  was  in  ciislenee  in  (heSth 
liiry,  for  Cliorleinngnc  rei^ided 


I  ttatbi 


<nby  Leo  III,  In 
I  the  latti  aenlnry  th'n  palace  had 
beoome  so  dilapidated  lirnm  age,  that 
tt  was  rebuilt  by  Innocent  III.,  who  ' 
CDtertiined    Peter  II.,  king  of   Ara- ' 

K,  in  the  new  edifiee.  In  Iho  fol-  j 
ing  century  it  wna  enlarged  by  I 
NiehoU)  1 1 1.,  whose  additions  occu-  I 
pied  the  site  of  the  present  Tor  di  | 
Borgia.  The  popes  for  upwards  ofa 
Ibouund  yesTE  bad  inhabited  the 
Ziateran  Palace,  and  did  not  make 
the  Vatican  their  permanent  resi- 
dence until  al^cr  tht^ir  return  from 
Avignon. in  1377.  Gr^oryXI.  then 
adopted  it  as  tile  papal  palace,  chieflv  I 
on  account  of  tlie 
given  to  it  by  the 
Castle  of  Si.  Angelo. 

built  the  corered  gallery  which 
municated  between  thepali 


Iter  security 
■inity  of  the 
ihnXXlII., 


«tle   froi 


J  May 


llie  citenl  and  VBtiety  of  Ihei: 
tions.  Nicholas  V.,  in  ttSO.  i 
ceived  the  idea  of  making  il 
largest  and  most  beautiful  palace  of 
the  Cbrittian  world,  but  be  di^  be- 
fore he  could  accomplish  his  design, 
and  was  only  able  to  renew  a  portion 
of  the  old  palace.  Alexander  VT. 
cotnpteted  this  building  nearly  aj 
now  see  it.  The  chapel  of  San 
renio,  the  private  chapel  of  Nicho- 
las v.,  well  known  from  the  frescoei 
of  Beato  Angclico  d 
sidered  to  be  the  only  part  of  the  eii- 
Rce  which  is  older  (ban  hi<i  & 
The  buildings  of  Aleiander  VL  « 
distinguished  from  the  later  works  bj 
the  name  of  the  Old  Palace,  and  an 
now  called,  From  th  "  "  " 
Tor  di  Borgia.  To  this  itmetura 
Siilus  IV.  in  1474  added  the  Ksline 
Chapel,  from  the  designs  of  Baccia 
Pinlelli.  About  1490  Innocent  VIII. 
erected  at  a  short  di-itance  fiom  the 
palace  the  villa  calti 
fi:om  the  designs  of  Antonio  PdIIb- 
juolo.  Julius  II.  conceived  the  id 
of  uniting  the  villa  to  lb  a  palace,  ai 
employed  Bramanle  to  execute  t 
plan.  Under  his  direction,  the  cele- 
brated Loggie  were  added,  and  the 
large  reolangutar  space  lietween  the 
palace  and  the  villa  was  divided  by  a 
terrace  separating  the  garden  of  tbe 
villa  from  the  lower  courts  of  the  pap 
lace,  -which  he  intended  to  convert 
Into  an  ampbilhealrc  for  buU-flghta 
and  public  games.  In  the  gardena 
of  the  Belvedere  Julius  laid  the  fboit- 
dations  of  tbe  Vatican  museum.  Thia 
honour  has  been  often  attribuled  ti 
Leo  X.  i  but  Cabrera,  in  his  very  cu 
rioua  Spanish  work  on  the  Antiqui- 
ties, published  at  Rome  in  1600^ 
enumerates  ihe  Laocoon,  the  Apollo, 
the  Cleopatra,  and  other  slatui 
placed  there  by  Julius  II,  After  b! 
death  Leo  X.  completed  the  Loggie 
under  the  direction  of  Raphael.  Paul 
III.  built  the  8ala  Regia  and  Ihe 
Capella  Paolina  from  the  designs  of 
Anlonio  Sangallo ;  and  Siitus  V. 
.completed  the  deslen  of  Btamonte, 
^  but  destT0^<?4  ^^  ™\v^  lA  ^Va  ^\ui 


Papal  StatesJ}    r.  27.  —  rome, —  Palaces  ;  the  Vatican.      443 


by  constructing  across  tlie  rectangle  | 
the  line  of  buildings  now  occupied  by 
the  library.  When  Cabrera  wrote  his 
description,  Sixtus  V.  bad  begun  a 
new  and  more  imposing  palace  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  court  of  the 
Loggie,  and  it  was  then  advancing 
towards  completion  under  Clement 
VIII.  This  is  now  the  ordinary  re- 
sidence of  the  popes,  and  is  by  far  the 
most  conspicuous  portion  of  the  mass 
of  buildings  which  constitute  the 
Vatican  Palace.  Numerous  altera- 
tions and  additions  were  made  by 
succeeding  pontiffs.  Under  Urban 
VIII.  Bernini  constructed  his  ce- 
lebrated staircase,  called  the  Scala 
Regia;  Clement  XIV.  and  Pius  VI. 
built  a  new  range  of  apartments  for 
the  Museo  Pio-Clementino ;  and 
Pius  VII.  added  the  Braccio  Nuovo, 
a  new  wing  covering  part  of  the  ter> 
race  of  Bramante,  and  running  paral- 
lel to  the  library.  Leo  XII.  began  a 
aeries  of  chambers  for  the  gallery  of 
pictures,  which  were  finished  and  ap- 
propriated to  their  original  purpose 
by  Gregory  XVI.  It  can  hardly  be 
expected  that  an  edifice  whose  de- 
velopment may  thus  be  traced  for  up- 
wards of  four  centuries,  should  have 
preserved  any  uniformity  of  plan; 
and  hence  the  general  effect  of  the 
palace  is  far  from  pleasing,  although 
many  of  its  proportions  and  details 
are  of  considerable  merit.  It  is  rather 
a  collection  of  separate  buildings  than 
one  regular  structure.  The  space  it 
occupies  is  immense :  its  length  is  said 
to  be  1 1 5 1  English  feet,  and  its  breadth 
767  feet.  It  is  a  common  saying  that 
the  palace,  with  its  gardens,  covers  a 
space  as  large  as  Turin.  The  number 
of  its  Iialls,  chambers,  galleries,  &c., 
almost  exceeds  belief:  it  has  8  grand 
staircases,  200  smaller  staircases,  20 
courts,  and  4422  apartments. 

From  these  statements  the  stranger 
may  form  some  idea  of  its  contents; 
but  before  we  describe  them  in  detail, 
it  is  necessary  to  advert  to  the  re- 
strictions by  which  the  study  of  the 
antiquities  and  public  galleries  of 
Rome  it  unhappily  impeded.     It  is  a 


matter  of  annoyance  to  intelligent 
visitors  to  find  themselves  shut  out 
from  all  attempts  to  make  the  slight- 
est sketch,  unless  they  have  previously 
obtained  permission  from  some  one  of 
the  many  mediocre  artists  employed 
by  the  government.  This  extends  to 
objects  even  in  the  open  air,  and  is  an 
illiberality  not  to  be  found  in  any 
other  country.  As  it  is  of  recent  date, 
we  hope  that  the  pope  may  become 
aware  of  it,  and  put  an  end  to  a  cus. 
torn  so  little  in  accordance  with  the 
usual  character  of  Rome. 

The  Scaia  Regia^  the  famous  stair- 
case of  Bernini,  is  one  of  his  most  re- 
markable works,  and  is  celebrated  for 
the  effect  of  its  perspective.  It  con- 
sists of  two  flights,  the  lower  deco- 
rated with  Ionic  columns,  and  the 
upper  with  pilasters ;  the  stucco  orna- 
ments are  by  Algardi.  This  staircase 
leads  to  the  SaJa  Regia,  built  by  An- 
tonio Sangallo,  in  the  pontificate  of 
Paul  III.,  as  a  hall  of  audience  for 
the  ambassadors.  It  is  decorated  with 
stucco  ornaments  by  Daniele  da  Vol- 
terra  and  Perino  del  Vaga,  and  is 
covered  with  frescoes,  illustrating  va- 
rious events  in  thehistory  of  the  popes, 
by  Vasari,  Marco  da  Siena,  Taddeo 
and  Federigo  Zuccari,  Orazio  Samac- 
chini,  Girolamo  Sicciolante,  and  Giu- 
seppe Porta.  The  most  remarkable 
of  these  paintings  are  the  Absolution 
of  the  Emperor  Henry  IV.  by  Gre- 
gory VII.,  in  the  presence  of  the 
Countess  Matilda,  by  Taddeo  and 
Federigo  Zuccari  t  the  Attack  of 
Tunis  in  1 553,  by  the  same ;  the  Mas- 
sacre of  St.  Bartholomew,  the  Remo- 
val of  the  Holy  See  from  Avignon  by 
Gregory  XI.,  the  League  against  the 
Turks,  by  Giorgio  Vasari ;  and  Frede- 
rick Barbarossa  receiving  the  Blessing 
from  Alexander  III.  in  the  Piazza  of 
St.  Mark,  by  Giiueppe  Porta.  The 
Sala  Rega  serves  as  a  vestibule  to  the 
Capella  Sistina  and  the  Capella  Pao- 
Una. 

The  CajmUa  SitHna,  or  Sistine  Cha" 
pel,  is  so  called  from  Sixtus  IV.,  who 
built  it  in  1473»  from  the  desi^^jos  of 
Bacc\o  'P\xili\V\.    \V  vk  ^VjSx.'^  ^J^wwfe 


Botrrs  3^.— ROME.^  Pffteff*;  riB  l^ffcawr"''! 


nng  Slid 


BT' 


cot.  about   I3J  f«l  li 
broad,  wilh     „ 
IKiuI  ilinc  at  the  nde>.    ilie  irolU 
111)  the  windoiri  are  diviiled  into 
pOTIiolu;    the   lower   one,   now 
lied  with  representationa  of  drap- 
a*  inlendEd  to  be  coveced  with 
pcatrivB  executed  frum  tbe  cnr- 
af  ItapLael ;    tbe   upper    con- 
a  icries  of  remarkable  freseoe* 
iaeni  artists  of  the  ISth  century, 
lllc  pope  employed  to  decorate 
Okpel  with  their  paintings.     '<  It 
dasigned,"  sajs  Laozi,  "  to  give  a 
itMian  of  some  lustages  from 
uf  Uoses  on  one  side  of  the 
«hapel,  and  from  tlic  life  of  Christ  on 
tlie  ulher,  to  thot  tlie  Old  I^w  might 
be  confronied  by  tbe  New,  the  type 
l)f  tbe  pcraon  typified."   Twooftt' 
aul^ecti  arc  on  ihe  sides  of  tlic  m 
entrance,  and  sit  on  each  side  w 
"niey  occur  in  tlie  following  on 
rirst  Series  (on  the  left):—].   : 
Journey  of  Moses  and  Zipporuh  1 
■pi,    L<tea   SigAorttli,   one   of 
;  2.  Moaei  killing  the  Egypt! 
Toses  diiving  avay  the    Shephi 
*"    prevent  the  Daugblers  uf  Jethro 
drawing  Water,  and  the  Appear. 
of  the  Lord  in  the  Fiery  Bush, 
;  3,   The  Overthrow 
Pharaoh  iu  the   Red   Sea,  Casimo 
Mous  giving  the  Com- 
■nAndmenta.    Quimo  RmKti;  5.   llie 
Rebellion  of  Koruli,  Smidn  Botticelli  ; 
6.  The  Death  of  Moses,  Ltca  £<>io- 
reSJ.  Second  Series:—!.  TheBa]>tism 
Christ,  Pernio  1  9.  The  Tempta- 
,  Suwfro  BaUictSii    3.  The  Calt- 
oF  St.  Peter    and    St.  Andrew, 
Ghirkndaja,  4.  Tlie  Sermon  on 
Mount,  Cufma  Raiidli ;  S.  Peter 
ling  the    Keys,    Peragiyui,   very 
fine;    6.    Tbe    Last    Supper,  Cotimo 
BatKlli.     At  tbe  sides  of  tbe  entrance 
doorway  are  the   Arclungcl  bearing 
away  tbe  body  of  Moses,  by  JTmuceBcu 
Sahlati.  and    the    ReEurreclion    by 
Oam,  Chitlnailajit.  both  much  ij  ' 
hy  repairs  in  the  time   of  Gregory 
Kill.      Between  the  windows   ' 

wentj-eight  popcB,  by  Son- 
e/!i,      'i'liese  paintings 


TiMi.  I 
^_tfChi 


Ighly   inleri'sliiig  in   the  history  of 
-t,    hut   Ibcy   lose   their   imporlan" 
hefiire   the   magnificent    creations 
[**L  Amollo,  wbuae  genius  fa 
such    celebrity  to  tbe   SSatine 

llie  JIuof.  Ijegun  after  his  Teiui 
Rome  in  1.^08,  at  the  earnest  entreaty 
of  Julius  1 1.,  was  Gnishrdin  1513 1  it 
is  generally  stated  that  the  actual  ei 
cution  of  the  work,  once  the  ooiopla* 
tiou  of  the  cartoons,  occupied  only 
twenty  months.  The  design  was 
evidently  a  conliiiuaiion  of  tiie 
scheme  of  Scripture  history,  already 
begun  upon  the  walls  by  tbe  olda 
inoslets,  and  illustrated,  as  we  I 
seen,  by  means  of  types  and  antitypes; 
but  it  is  remarkable  as  containlngit 
much  larger  proportion  of  subjeota 
from  Ihe  Old  Testament  than  ftota 
Ihe   Kew.      ll  is  evident  at  the  Srit 

and  a  painter  could  have  cunoeired 
the  architectuial  decorations  v 
form,  as  it  were,  a  framework  for  tba 
printipal  subjvcls.  No  language  n 
eiapgerate  the  grandeur  and  majesty 
of  the  figures,  which  are  subseni«al 
to  the  general  plan,  and  carry  oat  tHe 
sublime  idea  which  presides  ore    "* 

flat  central  portion  of  the  roof 
series  of  four  large  and  fire  small  sub- 
jeots,  from  the  Creation  to  the  Deluge. 
The  large  comparLnieuta  are;  —  I. 
Tbe  Creation  of  the  Sun  aod  Muon; 
2.  The  Creation  of  Addm;  S.  Tha 
Fall  and  the  Eipulsion  from  Para- 
dise; Ihe  serpent  is  here  represented 
after  the  maoner  of  the  early  mas 
with  a  female  head;  the  Eve  is 
uiitted  by  all  critics  to  be  one  of  tbe 
most  faultless  personifiealiuna  of  fe- 
mole  beauty  wliicli  painting  Imt  yet 
embodied,  'llie  whole  snbJL-ci  was  so 
much  admired  by  Raphael,  thol  he 

into  the  Lawrence  collection. 
The  Deluge,  with  a  multitude  ot 
small  figures  :  thU  was  the  first  i 
jcci  which  Kllebael  Angelo  painted, 
and  it  is  conjectured  that  be  found 
\  \\\e  effect  uucc^jibN  Vi  \C-.a  ei^iectil" 


Papal  States,']    r.  27. —  romk. —  Palaces  ;  the  Vatican.       445 


in  consequence  of  the  small  size  of 
the  figures,  and  therefore  adopted  a 
more  colossal  proportion  in  the  other 
subjects.  The  smaller  compartments 
represent : —  1.  The  Gathering  of  the 
Waters ;  2.  The  Separation  of  Light 
from  Darkness;  3.  The  Creation  of 
£ve ;  4.  The  Sacrifice  of  Noah  ;  5. 
The  Intoxication  of  Noah.  The 
curved  portion  of  the  ceiling  is  di- 
vided into  triangular  compartments, 
in  which  are  twelve  sitting  figures  of! 
Prophets  and  Sibyls,  the  largest  figures 
in  the  composition.  Nothing  can  be 
imagined  more  grand  or  dignified 
than  these  wonderful  creations :  the 
sibyls  embody  all  that  is  majestic  and 
graceful  in  woman,  and  the  prophets 
are  full  of  inspiration.  Each  figure 
has  its  name  inscribed  below  it,  and  it 
is  therefore  unnecessary  to  particu- 
larise them.  In  the  recesses  between 
these  figures,  and  in  the  arches  over 
the  windows,  is  a  series  of  groups  il- 
lustrating the  genealogy  of  the  Vir- 
gin, and  coming  down  to  the  birth  of 
the  Saviour.  In  the  angles  of  the 
ceiling  are  four  types  of  the  Redemp- 
tion, taken  from  the  history  of  the  de- 
liverance of  the  Jewish  nation :  they 
represent,  1.  llie  Punishment  of  Ha- 
inan ;  2.  Tlie  Brazen  Serpent ;  3. 
I>avid  beheading  Goliath ;  4.  Judith 
with  the  head  of  Holofernes. 

The  great  fresco  of  the  Last  Judg> 
MEXT,  GO  feet  high  and  30  feet  broad, 
occupies  the  end  wall  immediately 
opposite  the  entrance.  The  wall  was 
previously  covered  by  three  frescoes 
by  IVrugino,  representing  the  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin,  Moses  in  the 
bulrushes,  and  tlie  Nativity.  Michael 
Angelo  designed  this  great  work  in 
liis  sixtieth  year  at  the  request  of 
Clement  VII.,  and  completed  it  in 
1541,  during  the  pontificate  of  Paul 
III.,  after  a  labour  of  nearly  eight 
years.  In  order  to  encourage  him  in 
his  task,  the  pope  went  in  person  to 
his  house,  accompanied  by  ten  car- 
dinals;—  **an  honour,'*  says  Lanzi, 
**  unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  art.** 
At  the  suggestion  of  Sebastiano  del 
Piombo,  tJie  pope,  as  we  are  told  by 


the  same  authority,  '*  was  anxious  to 
have  the  picture  painted  in  oils ;  but 
this  point  he  could  not  carry,  M.  An- 
gelo having  replied  that  he  would  not 
execute  it  except  in  fresco,  and  that 
oil  painting  was  occupation  fit  only 
for  women  and  idlers,  or  such  as  had 
plenty  of  time  to  throw  away.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  picture  is  the  Sa- 
viour seated  with  the  Virgin  on  his 
right  hand,  which  is  extended  in  con- 
demnation. Above,  in  the  angles  of 
the  vault,  are  groups  of  angels  bear- 
ing the  instruments  of  the  passion. 
On  the  right  of  the  Saviour  is  the 
host  of  saints  and  patriarchs,  and  on 
the  left  the  martyrs,  with  the  symbols 
of  their  suffering :  St.  Catherine  may 
be  recognised  with  her  wheel,  St. 
Bartholomew  with  his  skin,  St.  Se- 
bastian with  his  arrows,  St.  Peter  re- 
storing the  keys,  &c.  Below  is  a 
group  of  angels  sounding  the  last 
trump,  and  bearing  the  books  of  life 
and  death.  On  their  left  is  repre- 
sented the  fall  of  the  damned :  the 
demons  are  seen  coming  out  of  the 
pit  to  seize  them  as  they  struggle  to 
escape ;  their  features  express  the  ut- 
most despair,  contrasted  with  the 
wildest  passions  of  rage,  anguish,  and 
defiance  ;  Charon  is  ferrying  another 
group  across  the  Styx,  and  is  striking 
down  the  rebellious  with  his  oar,  in 
accordance  with  the  description  of 
Dante  from  which  Michael  Angelo 
sought  inspiration : 

'*  Batte  col  remo  qualunque  s^adagia.** 

On  the  opposite  side  the  blessed  are 
rising  slowly  and  in  uncertainty  from 
their  graves ;  some  are  ascending  to 
heaven,  while  saints  and  angels  are 
assisting  them  to  rise  into  the  region 
of  the  blessed.  It  is  impossible  to 
examine  these  details  without  appre- 
ciating the  tremendous  power  by 
which  the  composition  is  pre-emi- 
nently distinguished.  The  imagina- 
tion never  realised  a  greater  variety 
of  human  passions,  and  art  has  never 
yet  so  completely  triumphed  over 
such  diflficulties  of  execution.  The 
boldness  of  lVi«  dtvwXw^^  ^%  \£a&\«^i 


4W       RooraS^.  — KOMT.— ftfeww,"  ffeVflrfwrn.    Cfefrt.*' 


fiimboTtening  of  the  figurei,  Ihe  anR- 
tomiciil  deliili. — all  combine  to  mnVe 
,if  the  mod  cxtnordinary  picture  in 
'"la  hiUarj  of  tti.  Ilie  concppiiun 
Mich  MS  the  genius  of  >Iichael  An- 
atone  could  hAve  embodied,  nnd 
.  .  remit  i>  full  of  grindfur  and  nib- 
Kmily.   Yet,  with  all  these  cicelleneeK, 

to  Uie  heart.  There  is  no  expr(!Hiion 
oT  hollneii  or  diiine  rejoicing  tq  dis- 
linguuli  the  hosts  of  heaven  from  the 
ftllca  ipiiiu;  the  Saiiour  himseirhas 
a  leirifio  aspect,  which  nccoriit  neither 
with  lb«  niajesiy  of  the  judBc,  not 
*r  »a  the  Son  of  God  ; 

lieh  speaks  prarx  to  the  soul  in  the 

tremenduus   spectacle, 

r  study,  the  Lssl  Judg. 

altogether  unrivalled,  and  no 

punting  vu  ever  eieculed  which  _il- 

to  the  ■rli'.t  the  dlR^reaee  betwran 
the  beautiful  and  the  niblime.  It  is 
a  temiukahic  £wt  id  the  history  of 
the  picture,  that  it  narron'lif  escaped 
deslruotioo  in  Ihe  lifetime  nf  the  great 
artist.  Paul  IV.  took  olTenee  at  the 
nudity  of  the  figures,  and  ivished  the 
whole  to  be  destroyed.  On  hearing 
of  the  pope's  olijection,  Mich.iel  An- 
gela said.  "  Tell  the  pope  that  (his  is 

mediedi  let  him  reform  the  world, 
and  the  pictures  will  reform  them- 
selvas."  The  pope  however  employed 
Diniele    da  Volti 


office  which 


ocured  for  I 


rapery, 


R 


epithet  BracheUmt,  c 

maker.  Michael  Angeio  suLmitted 
e  pope's  will,  but  revenged  him- 
on   Mesaer  Biogio  of  Siena,  the 

'«i^csted  the  indelicacy  of  the  figures. 

'  He  introduced  him  in  the  right  angle 

'Of  the  picture,  standing  in  bell  as  .Ml- 
*ii  with  ass's  eai'i,  and  his  body  sur- 
rounded by  a  serpent.  Biagio  com- 
pluned  to  the  pope,  who  requested 
that  it  might  be  altered ;  but  fli.  An- 

f^lo  declared  ll]»[  it  was  impossible; 
for  though  bis  boliness  was  able  tc 


feet  his  release  from  purgatory,  be 
id  no  power  over  hell.  lu  the  last 
ntury  Qement  Xlt.  thought  that 
:e  process  of  Daniele  da  Volterrab  ' 
)I  been  carried  far  enough,  and 
a  hMidiou)  scruples  did  serious  ! 

ing  by  emplojinff 


)Tenng  ti 


to  add  a 

e  figures.      We  si 


the  damp  of  two  centuries  and  a  hal£ 
the  smoke  of  Ihe  candles  and  ioeeiuei 
and  the  neglect  which  it  lias  evidently 

original  culouring.      The    accidental 
eiploiion  of  the  powder  magaaini 
the  castle  of  SI.  Angeio  in  1797,  vt 
sliook  the  buildings  to  (heir  finu 
tions,  is  said  to  have  .wriousjy  ii(fUred 
all  the  frescoes  in  the  Vatican.    [Tba 

in  the  Sistine  chapel  are  described  ii 
the  aceount  of  Sl  Peter's,  at  p.  S94«] 
OtpdU  Z^ulifli.  — Near  Ihe  Sistina 
chapel,  and  opening  likewise  o 
Sale  Reffia,  is  ihe  Capelta  Pmlim, 
built  in  1540  by  Paul  IIT.,  from  the 
designs  of  Anto,.io  Sangulla 
only  used  on  great  ceremonies, 
seldom  open,  it  is  remarkable  fix 
two  frescoes  by  Michad  Aageta,  which 
were  so  much  injured  by  the  smoko 
of  the  candles  in  the  lime  of  Lanri, 
that  it  was  even  then  difficult  ic  ' 
an  opinion  of  their  colouring.  Tha 
first  ntid  [he  best  preserved  is  the  CoD- 
ver^ion  of  Sl  Paul,  who  is  repre 
lying  on  Ihe  ground,  with  the  Sarioui 
in  the  eloiid,  surrounded  by  sngela. 
'Ilie  composition  is  very  Fine,  and  fiill 
ofdigi.ity.  The  other  subject  ii  u». 
der  the  window,  so  that  it  is  irapoa- 
sible  to  see  It  in  a  good  light.  It 
rcpresenistbe  Crucifixion  of  St.  Petn: 
and  though  blackened  by  smoke,  still 
retains  many  traces  of  the  maslec 
hand.       The   other   frescoes   of    tbi 

Fiderigo  Zuccari,  who  pointed  tht 
roof 

Sola  Ducah.  —  The  saloon  lcadin| 
from  the  Sals  Regia  to  the  Loggie  i: 
■  eaWeS  ".te  aa\tt\Jata\e,  iw^hicli  thi 


Palpal  States,"}    r.  27. —  rome.  —  Palaces;  the  Vatican,      447 


popes  in  former  times  gave  audience 
to  princes.  It  is  now  used  during  the 
Holy  Week  for  the  ceremony  of  wash- 
ing the  feet  of  the  pilgrims,  and  has 
latterly  been  the  hall  in  which  the 
new  cardinals  have  received  conse- 
cration. 

The  Loggie  were  begun  by  Julius 
II.,  from  the  designs  of  Bramante, 
and  completed  by  Raphael  in  the  pon- 
tificate of  Leo  X.  They  form  a  triple 
portico,  of  which  the  two  lower  stories 
are  supported  by  pilasters,  and  the 
third  by  columns.  The  only  part 
finished  by  Raphael  is  that  which 
fikces  the  city,  llie  other  correspond- 
ing sides  were  added  by  Gregory 
XIII.  and  his  successors,  in  order  to 
complete  the  uniformity  of  the  court 
of  Skin  Damaso.  The  first  story  is 
covered  with  stuccoes  and  arabesques, 
executed  by  Giovanni  da  Udine  from 
the  designs  of  Raphael.  The  second 
contains  the  celebrated  frescoes  which 
have  given  to  it  the  name  of  the 
**  Loggia  of  Raphael."  It  is  composed 
of  thirteen  arcades,  sustained  by  pi- 
lasters covered  with  stucco  ornaments 
and  painted  arabesques  by  Giovanni 
da  Udine,  from  the  designs  of  Raphael, 
who  is  said  to  have  derived  the  idea 
from  the  recently  discovered  paintings 
in  the  Baths  of  Titus.  Nothing  can 
surpass  the  exquisite  grace  and  deli- 
cacy of  these  decorations:  figures, 
flowers,  animals,  mythological  sub- 
jects, and  architectural  ornaments  are 
combined  with  the  most  delightful 
fancy;  and  though  seriously  injured 
by  the  troops  of  Charles  V.  and  by 
the  restorations  of  Sebastiano  del  Pi- 
ombo,  they  are  full  of  interest.  An 
engraving  only  can  afiTord  any  idea  of 
their  infinite  variety.  Lanzi  confesses 
that  to  give  a  suitable  description  of 
these  numerous  landscapes,  trophies, 
cameos,  masks,  and  other  subjects, 
which  the  divine  artist  either  designed 
himself  or  formed  into  new  combina- 
ttont  from  the  antique,  would,  as  Taia 
has  observed,  **  be  a  task  &r  beyond 
the  reach  of  human  powers.**  Each 
coved  roof  of  the  tiiirteen  arcades 
contains  Ibur  fretooet  eonncoted  with 


some  particular  epoch  of  Scripture 
history,  executed  from  Raphael's  de- 
signs by  Giulio  Romano,  Perino  del 
Vaga,  Pellegrino  da  Modena,  Fran- 
cesco Penni,  and  Raffaele  del  CoUe. 
There  are  therefore  fif^y-two  separate 
pictures.  Of  these,  forty-eight,  being 
those  of  the  first  twelve  arcades,  re- 
present different  events  in  the  history 
of  the  Old  Testament ;  the  last  four 
in  the  arcade,  close  to  the  entrance  of 
the  Stanze,  are  taken  from  the  New 
Testament,  and  serve  to  connect  the 
typical  subjects  of  the  former  series 
with  the  establishment  and  triumph 
of  the  church,  represented  in  the  fres- 
coes of  the  adjoining  Stanze,  The  Old 
Testament  subjects  begin  with  the 
Creation,  and  end  with  the  building 
of  the  Temple  of  Solomon :  they  oc- 
cur in  the  following  order.  —  1.  The 
Creation  of  the  World,  executed  by 
Raphael  with  his  own  hand,  as  Lanzi 
tells  us,  in  order  to  serve  as  a  model 
for  the  rest.  2.  The  history  of  Adam 
and  Eve.  3.  The  history  of  Noah : 
these  three  subjects  are  by  Giulio  Bo^ 
mono :  the  Eve  in  the  fall,  in  the  se- 
cond arcade,  is  supposed  to  be  by 
Raphael  himself.  4.  Abraham  and 
Lot;  5.  Isaac;  both  by  Francesco 
Penni,  6.  Jacob,  by  Pellegrino  da 
Modena.  7.  Joseph ;  8.  Moses ;  both 
by  Giulio  Bomano,  9.  A  continuation 
of  the  same  subject,  by  Raffaele  dei 
CoOe.  10.  Joshua;  and  11.  David, 
by  Perino  del  Vaga,  1 2.  Solomon,  by 
Pellegrino  da  Modena,  13.  New  Tes- 
tament subjects,  —  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  the  Adoration  of  the  Shep* 
herds,  the  Baptism  of  the  Saviour,  and 
the  Last  Supper,  by  Giulio  Romano, 
Lanzi  justly  says  that  **  the  exposure 
of  the  gallery  to  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather  has  almost  reduced  it  to  the 
squalid  appearance  of  the  ancient  gro- 
tesques ;  but  they  who  saw  it  after  it 
was  finished,  when  the  lustre  of  the 
gilding,  the  snowy  whiteness  of  the 
stuccoes,  the  brilliance  of  the  colours, 
and  the  freshness  of  the  marbles,  made 
it  resplendent  with  beauty  on  every 
side,  must    have    been   struck   with 


Ut        jtovTt  9T.—  -KoMt:~  PataiKi  I  fheTalteim. 


^m 


V«ari  •»jt  much  of  it  in 

lliese  tew 

either  to 

beaulitui 

g,  of  this 

Kjri.  hiT*  little  interest  bf  the  tide 

BtbM*  bHutifut  eoinposit 

on.,  they 

blUin  «  •cries  of  TreKOei  in  rootinu- 

pM  oT  tlie  New  Te»t.menl  hUlor,, 

iAiUd    bf   Skhhtlt    da 

fcnyto.  i-omtio  SuUiKm 

-•  (Til*  8t>i»e  uid  tlie  M 

open  on  Moadayi  snd  Thu 

cepi  an  FcalBs,  from   1   to 

1  o-elock. 

or  ™il.et  from  the  2«h  U 

the  SSrd 

hour,  ■CBOrding  to  lioman 

lime;  <o 

,)bal  llie  hour  of  opening 

ories  with 

whole  might 


4<p.  S 


I.).      I. 


!j  ere  nnlj  open  on  Thui 

Thej  maj-,  however,  be  seen 

I   od;    day  by   asking   permiuion, 

~  which   is  gtHntL'd  without  difficulty. 

On  the  closed  doys,  howeii'r,  the  bi- 

hindui^d  by  the  ■'caHtelli"  OTscsflulds 
of  the  srliata.  To  see  the  Ktaluw  by 
torchlight,  which  should  on  no  ae- 
count  fe  nmilted,app1icBliDi]  must  be 

irill  admit  Iwrlre  persons.  The  (ee 
to  the  custode  on  this  occasion  is  eight 
to  ten  uudi.  1'he  Swiss  guard  ei- 
pecl  one  scudo.  and  the  wax  torches, 
of  4  lb.  each,  which  the  party  are  re- 
quired to    provide,    coet    nearly    five 


The    ! 


Pieti 


relli. 


0/  ItapTta^  are  four 
lining  the  loggia  just 
ifbre  Raphael's  yisit  to 
'    ■     ■    TOployct  Luca 


delln 


ilehrale 


oF  the  period, 
chambers  with  their  pencils.  I'hey 
were  still  proeeeding  with  their  lasli, 
when  Raphael  was  summoned  to 
Rome  by  the  pope  in  order  to  auist 
them.  He  was  then  m  his  twenty- 
fiflli  year,  whjcli  Gici  the  dale  in  I  SOS. 
The  first  Bubjeet  which  he  painted 
here  was  the  Ditpula.  or  the  Dispute 

Segnsturs.  Tlie  pope  <ras  su  delighted 
iri'ih  his  surces-s  Ih.ic  lie  ordered  the 
••-Lifiis  of  the  e.irlier  mastera  to  be  dc- 


Jlroyed,  in  order  that 

lie  painted  by  his  h 

hy  Perugiiu),  to  which  we  shall  advnl 

bereafter,  was  preserved  at  Rspbael^ 

his  beloved  master,  but  all  the  oOer 
works  were  eSaced,  with  tlie  eicep^Mi 
of  a  few  minor  piuntings  on  same  of 
the  ceiling*.  Haphael  immedialdj 
entered  tipon  his  task,  and  the  exeeu- 
lion  of  the  work  occupied  the  great 
painter  during  the  remainder  of  Ins 
life,  which  was  too  short  to  allow  him 
ID  complete  the  whole.  Those  mb* 
jecis  which  were  unGnished  s 
death  were  eiccuted  by  his  pupih, 
The  prevailing  idea  which  may  bt 
traced  throughout  these  paintings  it 
an  il  lustration  of  the  ealablishmoit  udt 
Iriumphsof  the  Church,  from  the  tin 
of  Constaiitine.  The  subjects  of  tl 
loggio  were  intended  to  be  the  typ 
of  the  history  of  the  Saviour  and  oC 
the  rise  and  progrewi  of  the  Chucch; 
and  hence  the  cunnected  s 

to  its  interest,  and  in  a  great  nieantrlfc 
eiplains  the  subjects.  Those  wlueli 
seem  to  have  less  connexion  with  tU* 
scheme,  as  tlie  Philosophy,  Theoli^t 
Sec.,  are  supposed  to  have  been  eifr 
cuted  btforc  HapLiael  had  eanceiTecl 
the  idea  of  making  the  whole  work 
subserrient  to  a  comprehensive  cycle 
of  Church  hiitotj.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  two  figures  of  Meeknetf 
and  Justice  in  the  Sala  di  Costandnay 
all  the  paintings  are  in  ftesco.  A  few 
years  after  they  were  completed,  tbey 
were  seriously  injured  during  ttia 
fcatliil  sack  of  Home  hy  the  Cooltable 
de  Bourbon,  whose  troops  are  said  tO' 
have   lit    lirea    in  the    ceulre   of  the 

carefully  cleaned  by  Carlo  Marattai 
but  the  smaller  compositions  under. 
neath  the  principal  subjects  were  so 
much  obliterated,  that  he  found  tt 
necessary  to  repaint  It 

I'he  order  of  the  Sianze  in  the  tuite 
of  ajiartments  are  the  Sala  di  Costan 
lino,  the  Heliodoro,  the  Segnatura, 
and  the   Incendlo ;    ' 


Papal  States.']    n,  27.  —  rome. — Palaces;  (he  Vatican.      449 


the  paintings  in  the  order  of  their 
execution,  we  shall  begin  with  the 
Camera  della  Segnatura,  which  we 
have  already  mentioned  as  the  first  in 
point  of  time.  The  Stanza  of  the  He- 
fiodorus  and  the  Stanza  del  Incendio 
are  the  next  in  the  order  of  execution, 
and  the  Sala  di  Costantino  is  the  last, 
being  executed  after  the  death  of 
Raphael  by  his  scholars. 

1.  Camera  della  Segnatura^  often 
ealled  the  Chamber  of  the  School  of 
Athens.  This  chamber  contains  the 
celebrated  subjects  illustrative  of  The- 
ology, Philosophy,  Poetry,  and  Juris- 
prudence. The  roof  I — The  arrange- 
ment of  the  compartments  and  several 
of  the  mythological  figures  and  ara- 
besques were  completed  by  Sodoma, 
before  the  arrival  of  Raphael,  who 
has  preserved  them  without  change. 
The  subjects  painted  by  Raphael  are 
the  round  pictures,  containing  the 
allegorical  figures  of  the  Virtues  just 
mentioned,  and  a  corresponding  num- 
ber of  square  pictures  illustrating 
their  attributes  :  thus  we  have  Theo- 
logy and  the  Fall  of  Man,  Poetry 
and  the  Flaying  of  Marsyas,  Philo- 
sophy and  the  Study  of  the  Globe, 
Jurisprudence  and  the  Judgment  of 
Solomon.  The  walls :  —  Tlie  four 
subjects  on  the  walls  are  arranged 
immediately  under  the  allegorical 
figures  on  the  roof,  with  which  each 
subject  corresponds.  1.  Theology, 
better  known  as  the  Disputa  del  Sacra- 
mento, suggested  by  the  "  Triumphs" 
of  Petrarch.  In  the  centre  of  the 
picture  is  an  altar,  with  the  eucharist 
overshadowed  by  the  dove,  as  the 
symbol  of  Christ  on  earth :  the  fa- 
thers of  the  Latin  church,  St  Gre- 
gory, St.  Jerome,  St  Ambrose,  and 
St  Augustin,  sit  beside  it.  Their 
names  are  inscribed  on  the  *'  glory  ** 
above  tlieir  heads.  Near  them  are  the 
most  eminent  theologians  and  divines; 
while  at  each  side  is  a  crowd  of  lay- 
men attentively  listening  to  the  tenets 
of  the  church.  These  groups  are 
remarkable  as  containing  several  in- 
teresting portraits:  Raphael  has  re- 
presenteid  himself  and  Pcrugino   aS 


bishops ;  in  the  right  corner  is  a  pro- 
file of  Dante,  with  a  wreath  of  laurel ; 
near  him  are  St  Thomas  Aquinas 
and  Scotus.  On  the  same  side  is 
Savonarola,  dressed  in  black,  and  in 
profile  like  the  others.  The  figure 
leaning  on  a  parapet,  with  his  hand 
upon  a  book,  is  Bramante.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  composition  are 
represented  the  Trinity,  with  the 
Virgin  and  St  John  the  Ba])tist  in 
glory,  surrounded  by  a  group  of  ten 
m^estic  figures,  representing  patri- 
archs and  the  evangelists ;  the  Saviour 
and  the  evangelists  have  gold  glories, 
in  the  manner  of  the  older  masters. 
Underneath  this  composition  is  a 
chiaro-scuro,  by  Perino  del  Vaga, 
representing  the  Angel  appearing  to 
St  August! n  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
warning  him  not  to  inquire  too  deeply 
into  the  mysteries  of  the  Trinity. 
2.  Poetry,  represented  by  Mount  Par- 
nassus, with  Apollo  and  the  INIuses, 
and  an  assemblage  of  Greek,  Roman, 
and  Italian  poets.  Apollo  is  seated 
in  the  midst  of  the  picture  playing  a 
violin,  and  surrounded  by  the  Muses 
and  the  epic  poets ;  on  his  right  arc 
Homer,  Virgil,  and  Dante,  in  a  red 
robe,  and  crowned  with  laurel.  Ho- 
mer, a  fine  inspired  figure,  is  reciting, 
while  a  young  man  is  engaged  in 
writing  down  his  inspirations.  Near 
Virgil  is  another  figure  crowned  with 
laurel,  supposed  to  be  Raphael  him- 
self. Below  these,  and  on  each  side 
of  the  window,  are  the  lyric  poets ; 
on  one  side  Is  Sappho  holding  a  book 
which  bears  her  name,  and  addressing 
a  group  of  four  figures,  representing 
Corinna,  Petrarch,  Propertius,  and 
Ovid,  a  fine  tall  figure,  in  a  yellow 
dress.  On  the  other  side  of  the  window 
is  Pindar,  a  venerable  old  man,  en- 
gaged in  earnest  conversation  with 
Horace.  Close  by  are  Callimachus, 
with  his  finger  on  his  lips,  and  a 
!  beardless  figure,  supposed  to  be  San- 
'  nazzaro.  Above  these  is  Boccaccio. 
Near  this  fresco  is  inscribed  the  date 
;]511.  3.  Philosophy,  well  Vnown  by 
the  popular  title  of  the  "  School  of 


iwKJT«2^.  — newB. —  P^tetti  Ae'l'iiHffmt 


piiung  uchiteetur 


■!  filled  • 


1 '  containi  Rfty-two  figures,  bU  ehua«- 
-  Urised  b;  the  variety  anil  graccfulaein 
1    of  their  altitudei,  and  their  muBterlr 


On  ■  flight  of  att] 
the  Ccuire  or  the  eonipoiiition  suna  jcoDnecuon  wiin  ine  principal  aeiion 
liiloand  Aristotle,  holding  ■  volumi!  lof  ih«  picture.  The  arrangement  of 
of  hUei1iic«,in  the  act  of  disputntion,  IhesubjecC  nisy  he  regarded  os  a  proof 
ud  auriuundeil  bj  the  most  illus- Uf  the  learning  of  the  period:  there  u 
niaut  Iblluiren  of  the  Grecian  phi-  I  abundant  evidence  that  Raphael  con- 
1i>aa|>h)i.  Plato,  as  the  representaliTe  ^  suited  the  leorned  men  who  figund 
of  tbi  ipesulativa  scliool,  it  pointing  !  at  the  court  of  Julius  an  the  detaili 
tovuili  hcafcn;  Aristotle,  as  the  jof  the  comiraaition,  and  a  Ictteria  atiU 
Ibunder  of  (he  ethical   and  pbysieat    eitant  in  which  he  beIib  the  advice  of 


r.  points 


On  the  left 
doctrines  tu  Aicibindes  and  cither  dis- 
ciple*. On  the  loircr  plalfbrm  are 
the  minor  philosophers.  On  the  tell 
U  Pythagoras  writing  on  bia  knee, 
tllTTOUnded  bj  EmpedDcles  and  nthcr 
fiillavers;  one  of  these  wears  a  tur- 
ban, and  another  holds  ■  tablet  in- 
wr'ibed  witb  the  harmonic  scale : 
behind  him  a  youthful  figure  in  a 
white  mantle,  with  his  hand  in  his 
breast,  is  said  to  be  a  portrait  of 
Praueeico  Maria  della  Hovere,  duke 
of  Orbino,  the  friend  and  patron  of 
Raphael,  and  the  nephew  of  Julius  II. 
On  the  right,  Archimedes,  a  portrait 
of  Bramante,  "col  cnpo  haww,"  is 
lepreaentcd  tracing  a  geometrical  pro- 
blem on  the  ground,  surrounded  by  a 
group  of  graceful  youths  attentively 
watching  the  proj  '    ' 


the 


young  n 


n  blue  by  h 


.  Federigo  II.,  duke  of  Mantua. 
Behind  this  group,  in  the  anjile  of  the 
picture,  are  Zoroaster  and  Ptolemy, 
ODfl  holding  a  celestial  ^id  the  other 

tires  of  Astronomy  and  Geography  : 
they  are  both  in  the  act  of  addressing 
two  figures  in  tlie  background,  which 
are  portraits  of  Raphael  bimself  and 
his  master  Perugino.  Between  this 
group  and  that  of  Pythagoras  a  soli- 
tary   and    half-naked   figi 


sDioge 


is  tub.    Thid 


masterly 

I'egarded  an  one  of  Raphael's  most 
mblime  conceptions)  nnthing  can  sur- 
psa*  the  dignity  of  the  elder  figures, 
and  the  tastily  of  the  younger  groups 
jjas  been  tbc  theme  of  every  crilJO:  it 


Arioiilo  on  tbe  leading  argument  of 
the  picture.  Tlie  original  cartDOD, 
from  which  some  slight  TariotioiU 
may  be  traced,  is  preserved  in  the 
Ambrosisn  library  at  Milan ;  aonM 
of  the  old  engravings  converted  H 
into  Paul  preaching  at  Athens,  and 
altered  several  of  the  figures  to  ooN 
reapond  with  this  idea.  During  tbe 
siege  of   Rome  in    ISilQ  one  of  tha 

and  sliglitly  damaged  the  drapery  of 
B  figure  on  the  left  of  thit  freaco. 
The  historical  cbiaro-scuro  uudet. 
neath,  by  Perino  del  Vnga, 

'    .th   of  Archimedes  wbili 


iput- 

of  Pr*- 


sorbed    i 

drncr,  represented  in  three 

menu:   in  the  first  over  t1 

are  three  allegorical  figure 

denee,    Fortitude,   and   Tei 

the    first  has   two    faces, 

youthful  features,  the  other  with  than 

of    liearded    old    age,    to    show    het 

knowledge  of  the  past    and   future. 

neath  the  figure  of  Fortitude,  Jtuli- 
nian  is  presenting  the  Pandects,  to 
Tribonian.  in  allusion  to  the  clvU 
law  ]  on  the  other,  under  Temperance 
Gregory  IX.  delivers  (he  Decretoli 


e  Cons 


o  lav 


subjeel 


The  ar- 


made  dependent  on  morabi 
seems  to  have  been  suggested  by  tbe 
ethics  of  Aristotle.  The  pope  is  ■ 
portrait  of  Julius  II,  j  near  him  are 
Cardinal  de'  Medici,  afierwardi  Leo 
X.,  Cardinal  F«mese,allerffttrds  Paul 
III.,  and  Cardinal  del  Monte. 
r  11.  StanKiofthiH.UQitiri«,Gmsbed 


JPapai SUUes.'}    r.  27. —  ROME. —  Palaces;  the  Vatican.      451 


in    1 5]  4,    illustrating    the   triumphs 
of    the    Church   over    her   enemies, 
mnd  the  miracles  by  which  her  doc- 
trines were  substantiated,     llie  roof 
is   arranged   in   four    compartments, 
oontaining  subjects  from  the  history 
of  the  Old  Testament :   the  Covenant 
of  Abraham,  the  Sacrifice  of  Isaac, 
Jacob*8  Dream,  and  the  Appearance 
of  God  to  Moses  in  the  fiery  Bush. 
The   walls :  —  1.  The   Expulsion   of 
ffdiodorusfrom  the  Temple,  taken  from 
the  third  chapter  of  the  second  book 
of  Maccabees,  an  allusion  to  the  suc- 
cessful efforts  of  Julius  II.  in  over- 
coming by  the  sword  the  enemies  of 
the  papal  power.     In  the  foreground 
is  Heliodorus  with  his  attendants  in 
the  act  of  bearing  away  the  treasures 
of  the  temple,  and  flying  before  the 
two  youths  who  are  scourging  them 
with   rods.     Heliodorus  himself  has 
£dlen  beneath  the  feet  of  the  horse  on 
which  sits  the  avenging  angel  who 
drives  them  from  the  temple.     In  the 
liaekground  is  Onias  the  high-priest, 
at  the  altar,  praying  for  the  divine 
interposition.     In  tlie  lefl  of  the  pic- 
ture is  a  group  of  amazed  spectators, 
among  whom  is  Julius  II.,  borne  in 
by  his  attendants  on  a  chair  of  state, 
and  accompanied  by  his  secretaries ; 
one  of  these  b  a  portrait  of  Marcan- 
tonio  Raimondi,  the   celebrated   en- 
graver of  liaphaers  designs ;  the  other 
has   this   inscription,  **  J.  Fietro   de 
Foliariis  Cremonens.**     "  Here,**  says 
Lrfuuri,  *'you  may  almost  fancy  you 
hear  the  thundering  approach  of  the 
heavenly  warrior  and  the  neighing  of 
his  steed ;  while  in  the  different  groups 
who  are  plundering  the  treasures  of  the 
temple,  and  in  those  who  gaze  intently 
on  the  sudden  consternation  of  Helio- 
dorus, without  being  able  to  divine 
its   cause,  we  see  the  expression   of 
terror,  amazement,  joy,  humility,  and 
every  passion  to  which  human  nature 
is  exposed.**     The  whole  of  this  fine 
composition   is   characterised  by  the 
exceeding  richmss  of  its  colouring: 
in   this   respect  the   Heliodorus  and 
the  Miracle  of  Bolsena  are  justly  re- 
garded as  the  very  finettt  productions 
ia  the  whole  range  of  art,  not  even 


excepting  the  celebrated  frescoes  of 
Titian   at   Padua.     The   Heliodorus 
shows  how  far   Raphael  had  profited 
by  the  inspirations  of  Michael  Angelo, 
but  he  has  here  combined  the  dignity 
of  form,  the  variety  and  boldness  of 
the  foreshortening,  which  characterise 
the  works  of  that  great  master,  with 
a  grace  and  beauty  of  sentiment  pe- 
culiarly his  own.     2.  The  Miracle  of 
BoUenUy  illustrating  the   infallibility 
of  the  doctrines  of  the  Church  by  the 
representation  of  the  miracle  described 
at  p.  221.     Over  the  window  is  the 
altar,  with  the  officiating  priest  re- 
garding the  bleedmg  wafer  with  re- 
verential astonishment;    behind  him 
are   the   choir-boys   and  the   people 
pressing  forward  with  mingled   cu- 
riosity and  awe.     On  the  other  side 
of  the   altar   is   Julius  II.   praying, 
attended  by  some  cardinals  and  his 
Swiss   guard.      No   contrast   can   be 
stronger  than  that  presented  by  the 
religious  confidence  of  the  pope,  the 
formal  devotion  of  the  prelates,  and 
the  rude  military  obedience   of  the 
Swiss  soldiers.  This  fresco  was  the  last 
work  completed  by  Raphael  during 
the   reign    of   this    illustrious  pope, 
without  whose  patronage  and  encou- 
ragement it  is  more  than  probable  that 
neither  these  wonderful  productions, 
nor  those  of  Michael  Angelo  on  the 
roof  of  the  Sistine  chapel,  would  ever 
have  existed.     S.   The  AtHla,  repre- 
senting S.  Leo  I.  arresting  Attila  at 
the  gates  of  Rome,  in  allusion  to  the 
victory  of  Leo  X.  over  Louis  XII. 
in  1513,  in  driving  the  French  out  of 
the  states  of  Milan.     On  the  right 
of  the  picture  Attila  is  represented  in 
the  midst  of  his  cavalry  shrinking  in 
terror   before   the   apparition   of  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul  in  the  heavens ; 
his  followers   are   already    flying   in 
amazement.     On  the  other  side  is  the 
pope,  attended  by  two  cardinals  and 
the  officers  of  his  court ;  their  calm 
expression  contrasts  stiongly  with  the 
wild  terror  of  the  Huns.     The  pope 
is  a  portrait  of  Leo  X.,  the  reigning 
pontiff*;    he  may  also  be  recognised 
as  one  of   tYv«   sXXeu^AxiX  ««t^vcA^v, 
which  -hM  \>«wa  «A<dNAft^  **  ^  -^xacS. 


BOt'TE  ^^ 


—  PaJaees;  tTieValican, 


_.l    the   palncing    wa    coinmencrd 

I   U>o    reign    of  Juliiu    II.,    wlnle  { 

ixa  vu  yet  (he   Cardinal  do'  Mc-  j 

■liei.     Oa   the  left  of  Ihc   pope   are 

tlirec  fijcurei  on  honvback :   the  one 

in  >  nd  dtMH  on  i  vhiie  home  U 

«Uppu«il  to  be  A  portrait  of  PenjginO{ 

the  cro9s-l)ear«r  in  ItaphiiBl,     4^  The 

Ddimranct  af  St.  Ftlir,  nn  allusion  to 

the  lilwralian  of  Leo  X.,  while  car- 

_itln>l  and  papal  legate  at  the  court  of 

Bkain,  after  hii  capture  at  the  battle 

■f   Ravenna.  — (Seep.  1  OS.)     It  ii 

^KnarVable  for  the  efTect  of  ihe  four 

Bfaht*.      Oirer  the  window,  the  angel 

Ti  i«n  through  the  grallngs  of  the 

ii  alcepiiig  beiween  the  two  boldiers. 
"ilie  iuterior  is  illumined  by  the  rays 
of  Vigjbt  proceeding  from  the  angvi. 
On  the  right  of  the  window  tlie  angel 
ii  conducting  St.  Peter  from  the  pri. 
■on  while  llio  giiBrdu  are  sleeping  on 
the  Eileps  ;  the  light,  as  in  the  TuTmer 
eoe,  protxcdx  from  tlxe  person  of  the 
angel.  On  the  other  side  of  the  win- 
dow, the  guards  haye  been  alarmed 
■nd  are  rousing  themselves  to  sesroh 
(br  their  prisoner ;  one  holds  a  torch, 
C-om  which,  and  IVom  the  mooo  shin- 
ing in  the  distance,  the  liglit  of  the 
group  is  dorivud.  Vasari  tells  us  that 
"  "'  s   frescoes  painted    i       ' 


■own,  but  it  is  not  iinprahable 
Bihibited  some  of  those  eitra- 
y  elTects  of  light  and  shade  for 


"hid 

able,  and  suggested  the  similar  eflects 
vhich  Raphael  here  for  Ihe  first  time 
introduced  into  his  compcaitions.  The 
ehitiro-scura  subjects  in  this  chamber 
are  allegorical  allu^ens  to  tbe  reigns 
of  Julius  II.  and  Leo  X. 

in.  StOAzaofthtlamulioddBargo. 
—  Ttie  Ribjeots  of  the  paiutiugs  in 
'lis  room  are  a  continuation  uf  the 
nrilication  of  the  Church,  illustrated 
in  the  history  ofLeoIII.  and 
olV.  The  selection  of  these  pun- 
's lupposed  to  be  compli- 
tBtary  to  the  name  uf  the  reigniun 


|>oniiIfl  The  too/  is  remarkable  fbr 
tbe  frescoes  of  Perugino,  which  Ri- 
Iihael'i  affection  far  his 
not  allow  him  to  elface,  when  Ibe 
other  frescoes  of  the  early 
were  destroyed  to  make  rooi 
works.  It  Eontuins  four  circular  pio- 
tures,  representing  the  Almighty 
rounded  by  angels,  the  Sbtiou 
glory,  the  Saviour  with 
and  his  glorlflcation  between  Sainti 
and  Angels.  The  aalh  are  partlj 
painted  by  Raphael,  and  wi 
pletedin  1517.  I,  IneauliodtlBaigt, 
representing  the  destruction  of  HlB 
suburb  uf  Uoi^o,  or  the   Citta 

Leo'lV.,A.)..  B47.      This  distei    . 
we  liave  elsewhere  remarked  (p.S99.)i 
was   inhabited  by    tlie   Aiiglo-Saxm 
pilgrims,  from   whom,  eccotding  t». 
Anastatiiu,  it   derived    Ibi 
•'  Saionum   vicus."      The   same  au- 
thority tells  us,  that  in  the  laoguag* 
of  these  pilgrims,  to  whom  he  g'"   ' 
the  name  of  JngH,  the  distriet 
called    Burgvi,   and   that   in   oa 
qiience  of  their  neglect  it  vsa  b 
to  the  ground.    The  Church  tra^ 
relates  that  the  fire  was  approad 
the  Vatican,  when  ihe  pope  mir 
lously  arrested  its  progress  with 
sign  of  the  cross.     In  the  backgrotind 
is   the   front  of  the   old    hi    ■" 
St.  Peter's:    in  the  bsleony  lor  tM 
papal  benediction  b  the  pope  beariitf 
the  cross,  surrounded   by  the  carib 
the  steps  below,  the  peopli 


e  fled  t. 


the 


their  outstretchad 
arms,  in  the  act  of  imploring  hi 
tercession.  On  eocb  side  bts 
burning  houses.  On  the  right  e  grouf 
at  men  are  endeavouring  to  ettliK 
i;uish  the  lUines,  vhili 
figures  are  bearing  water  to  thrar 
assistance.  On  the  iell  ore  sevacd 
groups  escaping  with  their  kindred,. 
Another  group  of  distracted  motfaen 
and  their  children,  in  the  centre  Ot 
the  composition,  are  eamettly  stretch- 
ing out  their  arms  to  the  pope  and 
iinplormg  sui 
ot  ftm  'iiAiit 


P^gMt  Siates.2    R«  27. —  rome. —  Palaces;  the  Vatican.      453 


class:  the  forms  and  action  of  the 
principal  figures  bear  evident  marks 
of  the  influence  of  Michael  Angelo. 
The  details  seem  to  have  been  sug- 
gested  by  the  burning  of  Troy :  the 
group  of  the  young  man  carrying  off 
his  fether  recalls  the  story  of  ^neas 
and  Anchises,  followed  by  Ascanius 
and  Creusa.  A  considerable  part  of 
this  picture  was  painted  by  the  scho- 
lars of  Raphael:  the  group  just  de- 
scribed was  coloured  by  Giulio  Ro- 
mano. 2.  The  Justification  of  Leo  III. 
before  Charlemagne.  —  The  pope  is  re- 
presented clearing  himself  on  oath  of 
the  calumnies  thrown  upon  him  by 
his  enemies,  in  the  presence  of  the 
emperor,  the  cardinals,  and  the  arch- 
bishops. The  pope  is  a  portrait  of 
Leo  X.,and  the  emperor  is  a  portrait 
of  Francis  I.  3.  The  Coronation  of 
Charlemagne  by  Leo  ///.,  in  the  old 
basilica  of  St.  Peter's  :  a  fine  expres- 
sive composition,  partly  painted  by 
Raphael,  and  partly,  it  is  said,  by 
Perino  del  Vaga.  The  pope  and 
emperor,  as  in  the  former  case,  are 
portraits  of  Leo  X.  and  Francis  I. 
4.  The  Vtctory  of  Leo.  /Fl,  over  the 
Saracens  at  Ostia,  painted  from  Ra* 
phaeVs  designs  by  Giovanni  da  Udine. 
Tlie  chiaro-scuro  subjects  of  this 
chamber  were  painted  by  Polidoro  da 
Caravaggio  :  they  are  portraits  of  the 
princes  who  have  been  eminent  bene- 
factors of  the  church.  One  of  them 
will  not  &il  to  interest  the  English 
traveller:  it  bears  the  inscription, 
Astulphtta  Rex  iub  Leone  IK  PotU. 
Britanniam  Beato  Petro  vectigalem  ft- 
cit.  Ethclwolf  was  king  of  England 
during  the  reign  of  Leo.  IV.  (847- 
855.)  The  inscription  confirms  the 
opinion  of  those  historians  who  re- 
gard him  as  the  first  sovereign  of 
England  who  agreed  to  pay  the  tri- 
bute of  Peter's  pence  to  the  Holy 
See.  The  doors  of  this  chamber  are 
celebrated  for  their  elaborate  carvings 
by  Giovanni  Barile,  and  their  intarsia 
by  Fra  Giovanni  da  Verona,  They 
were  carefully  copied  by  Poussin  at 
the  command  of  Louis  XIII.,  who 
intended  to  use  them  as  models  for  the 


doors  of  the  Louvre:  they  are  supposed 
to  have  been  designed  by  Raphael. 

IV.  Sala  di  Costantino.  —  This 
large  chamber  was  not  painted  until 
after  the  death  of  Raphael.  He  had 
prepared  the  drawings,  and  had  beguu 
to  execute  them  in  oil.  The  figures 
of  Justice  and  Benignity  were  the 
only  portions  of  the  composition 
which  he  actually  painted,  for  the 
work  was  interrupted  by  his  death, 
and  ultimately  completed  in  fresco  by 
Giulio  Romano,  Francesco  Penni, 
and  Raffaele  del  Colle.  The  subjects 
are  illustrative  of  the  sovereignty  of 
the  Church,  and  their  mode  of  treat- 
ment seems  to  have  been  suggested 
by  the  celebrated  frescoes  of  Pietro 
delja  Francesca,  in  the  church  of 
S.  Francesco  at  Arezzo.  1.  The 
Battle  of  Constantine  and  Maxentius 
at  the  Ponte  Molle,  entirely  designed 
by  Raphael,  and  executed  by  Giulio 
Romano;  the  largest  historical  sub- 
ject ever  painted.  No  other  compo- 
sition by  Raphael  contains  such  a 
variety  of  figures,  such  powerful  and 
vigorous  action,  such  animation  and 
spirit  in  every  part  of  the  picture. 
Bellori  says  that  he  appears  to  have 
been  borne  along  by  the  energy  of  the 
warriors  he  was  painting,  and  to  have 
carried  his  pencil  into  the  fight.  It 
represents  the  very  moment  of  vic- 
tory :  Maxentius  is  driven  into  the 
Tiber  by  Constantine,  whose  white 
horse  rushes  forward  as  if  partaking 
of  the  energy  of  his  rider.  One  body 
of  the  troops  of  Maxentius  is  flying 
over  the  bridge  in  disorder,  while 
another  on  the  left  hand  is  gallantly 
sustaining  the  last  struggle  of  despair. 
In  the  midst  of  this  tumultuous 
scene  an  old  soldier  is  seen  raising  the 
dead  body  of  a  young  standard- 
bearer,  one  of  those  touching  epi- 
sodes which  are  so  peculiarly  charac- 
teristic of  the  gentle  spirit  of  the 
master.  The  colouring,  on  the  whole, 
is  rough  and  dusky  in  the  middle 
tints  but  very  powerful  in  parts. 
Lanzi  says  that  Poussin  praised  it  as 
a  fine  specimen  of  Giulio*8  manner, 
and  considered  the  hardness  o^Vvv&sV^V^ 


^itmiS^ssisssr^feHi 


■  4M       'ihwni  W. 

well  lUittd  10  the  fury  of  i 
bat.      S.  Th«  Oo«i  aiiprai 

I  wblle  ((Iiirctsinp  hli  troopi 
la  the  battle.  This  and  the 
iin);  mbjectj  uv  thv  least  ii 
mting  of  the  scries :  it  is  taXd  Ibi 
.  utj  oevutioiK  were  made  froi 
laphael'i  deeigni,  uid  wrerst  epi 
'  9  UBj  be  recognised,  which  could 
^^_ .  haie  entered  into  onj  eompositioi 
Baielatcd  by  his  gemjs.  In  the  buck- 
ground  am  leTeral  Roman  moou- 
menu.  The  eiecutian  of  tisis  sub- 
Ject  ii  bf  Ciulla  Itomsno.  3.  Thi 
Bafliim  af  Coiutanliut  by  SI.  Silvatti- 
painted  by  Fronccseo  P«niii  (II  Fat. 
tore),  who  bas  introduced  hisportraii 
in  n  bUck  dress  with  a  relvet  cap. 
The  scene  is  inleresling  as  a  contcm. 
porary  representslion  oT  the  baptistery 
of  St.  John  Lateran.  4.  amslanlinc'' 
gift  nf  Some  to  llie  Pope,  painted  bj 
Itaffade  dul  Colic  The  eight  fiRurCB 
of  popes  between  these  four  suhjccls 
are  said  to  he  by  Giulio  nomano. 
The  chiaro-scuro  subjects  are  b;  Po- 
I  Udoro  da  Cararnggio  ;  the  Triumph 
I  of  Failb  on  ilie  roof  is  an  inferior 
'  work  by  Tommaso  tjiuretti ;  the 
other  paintings  of  the  roof  are  by  ILic 
Zuecori.  During  the  siege  of  Rome 
Id  1849,  a  French  musket  ball  came 
throush  the  window  of  thii  chamber, 
but  (Ud  no  further  damage  than  the 
erasure  of  half  of  the  letter  T  in  the 
inscription,  "  Sixtus  V.  Pont." 

Tapiftriei  a/  RapHail,  ta  a  gallery 
adjoining  the  Slanze,  which  it  will  be 
denrable  <to  notice  liere  in  connexion 
with  the  oiher  worlcs  of  Raphael. 
They  are  called  tbe  Araiii,  from  being 
worked  at  Arras  in  Flanders.  jn 
1515  and  the  fullowing  year  Raphael 
dengned  eleicn  cartoons  for  the  tapes- 
tries which  1*0  X.  required  to  cover 
the  wallsoftheSlBtiuechiipel.  These 
cartoons  were  eiecuted  in  distemper 
by  his  own  liands,  assisted  by  his 
pupil  Francesco  Penni )  and  the  En- 
glish Irateller  will  iiardly  require  to 
beiofonncd  that  seven  of  the  number 
are  preserred  at  Hampton  Court. 
The    ■         ■  ■       ' 

worked  under  Ibe  dii 


^bwe   n 


Bernhard   van  Orley>  the  able  pupil 

of  Rapliiet,  ihen  resident  in  FlaiKteR. 
Ten  of  the  subjects  represent  IhH  hi* 
lory  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul;  tba 
elexenth,  of  which  all  trace  is 
was  the  Coronation  of  llie  Virgin.  A 
second  seriei  of  thiilcen  lapestriea  wo 
eiecuted  at  a  later  period,  aodiM' 
altogether  from  Ibe  designs  of  Rl 
phacl :  they  represent  Tarioua  naM 
in  the  life  of  Christ,  and  some  amon 
the  number  arc  so  much  interior  I 
the  first  scries  in  design,  tbiit  tbera 
can  be  no  doubt  of  their  being  tlM 
eotnpositiun  of  his  acholan.  Duiij]| 
tbe  tacit  of  Home  by  the  CoW""'^ 
de  'Bourbon,  in  1527,  the  tope 
were  Acricusly  injured  andaloleafiol)^ 
the  Vatican :  they  were  restored  la 
1553  by  the  Constable  Amte  ia 
Monlmorenci,  but  some  ralnable  por- 
tiims  of  them  were  lost  Ibr  ever, 
n.ey  were  again  corried  olT  by  Am 
French  at  the  invasion  of  1798,  »»' 
were  sold  to  a  Jew  in  Paris,  -wit 
burnt  one  of  them  for  the  Sake  of  lb 
gold  and  silver  threads  used  in  A 
bright  lights.  The  speculation  fin 
tunalely  foiled,  and  the  ,Iew  oflferw 
to  sell  the  remainder  to  riusTIF., 
by  whom  they  were  of  coursa  ^adlj. 
purchased.  In  the  siege  of  1849 
they  were  again  exposed  to  idJu^ 
from  Ihe  fire  of  the  French  arlfllw]'. 
balls  penetrated  tbe  galler?,  b  ' 
fortunately  one  fell  on  tbe  floor,  ■ 
ither  at  the  foot  of  No.  8,  tb« 
-aculous    Draught    of    Fishea.'' 

Snitt.  —  The  ten  subjecta 
leries  have  autTercd  much  IV 
and  are  greatly  faded,  but  Out 
beauty  of  their  composilton  i  ~ 
e  imperishable,  and  conaidi  _ 
ifliculty  of  the  oiaterial,  theyars 
worked  with  surprising  fidelity  to  tba 
'iginal  designs.  The  two  sell  of 
pesiries  arc  unfortunately  not 
nged  in  their  proper  order  on 
walls,  and  are  hung  indiscriminately 
o  chambers.  The  ten  subjects 
L  were  formerly  placed  in 
e  chapel  are  the  following: 
3  punishment  of  Elytnas  the  I 
mueli  insuced.     2.  The  Stoning 


Pkipat Stalet.'}    r.  27 —  rome — Palaceii  the  Vatican,      465 
cl  Stephen.     On  the  margin  belcm- 


f  til, 

ancient  bu-reliets,  tlie  return  of  Ckr 
diul  de'  Medici  to  Florence  as  th< 
papal  legate  :  the  cartoon  of  this  su?i 
Jeet  is  lost.  3.  The  Healing  of  th< 
IsTue  man  in  the  Temple ;  beloir,  thr 
Capture  and  Flight  of  Cardinal  dc 
Medici  at  the  battle  of  Rarenna.  4 
Fuil  in  prison  at  Philippi  during  tEi< 
«»rthqualte.  which  is  represented  h; 
•  giant;  the  cartoon  of  this  subject  i: 
loaL  5.  TheConveriionof  St.  Paul 
beloir,  the  Chriatian  persecutions 
the  cartoon  of  [his  suhjecl  is  a.W 
lott.  6.  Christ  dellTering  the  Kcji 
to  St.  Peter  j  belov,  the  Escape  of 
Cardinal  de'  Medici  from  Florence. 
■D  the  disguise  of  a  Capuchin,  at 
the  expulsion  of  his  Rimilf.  T.  Tliv 
Death  of  Ananias  i  heloir,  the  Re- 
turn of  Cardinal  de'  Medici  anri  his 
ftmilj  as  lords  of  Florence.  8.  Thg 
CaUing  oF  8l.  Feler,  or  the  Mirs- 
euloui  Draught  of  Fishes;  heloir, 
Cardinal  de'  Medici  at  the  conclave 
elected  Pops.  9.  Paul  preaching  at 
Athenai  beloir,  some  scenes  from  tht 
lift  of  the  apostle.  10.  PanI  and 
Bu-naboa  at  Ljstra ;  below,  Paul  in 
Ifae  Synagogue.    Stcoitd  Strict,  —  The 

thirteen  subjects  are  the  Allowing,  in 
which  the  geniut  of  Raphael  is  still 
traceable  :  the  Massacre  of  the  Inno- 
eenta,  in  three  narrow  pieces  (part  of 
the  cartoon  is  now  in  the  NalionnI 
Gallery);  the  A  doralion  of  the  Magi; 
the  Iteiurreclian  ;  the  Nativity;  the 


The 
eluding    the    allegorice 


impoiil 


Htscoei  are  illnatratiTe  of  different 
events  in  the  life  of  St,  Stephen  and 
Si.  Lawrence^  Those  on  the  walls 
are  —  First  Saia:  I.  The  Ordina- 
tion of  Stephen ;  S.  Stephen  giving 
charity  1  3.  His  preaching,  b  fine  ex- 
pressive eomposition  ;  4.  His  appear- 
ance befbre  the  Council  at  Jerusalem  ; 
5.  His  Expulsion  ;  6.  The  Stouiug. 
Sttmd  Strict :  I.  The  Ordination  of 
St  Lawrence;  2.  The  Pope  deliver- 
ing to  him  the  Church  treasures  for 
distribution  amongthepoor  i  3.  Their 
Distrihutian ;  4.  The  Saint  carried 
before  the  Emperor;  5.  His  Mar- 
tyrdom. In  the  luneUa  are  four  Fa. 
thers  and  four  Doctors  of  the  Church; 
on  (he  roof  are  the  four  Evangelists. 
These  interesting  works  have  been 
finely  preserved)  and  Lanzi  says  that 
all  critics  were  delighted  to  bcstor 
upon  them  the  highest  praise- 

Gallekt  or  Piciuass. 
Although  the  Vatican  Gallery  does 
not  contain  fifty  pictures,  it  has  more 
real  treasures  of  art  than  any  other 
collection  in  the  world.  The  Trans- 
figuration, tbe  Madonna  di  Foligno, 
and  tbe  CommunioD  of  St.  Jerome, 
are  a  gallery  in  themselves  ;  and  we 
think  it  rather  an  advantage  that 
there  are  so  few  inferior  works  to 
distract  tbe  attention  of  the  student 
these  miracles  of  art.      'Hie  pic- 

by  Pius  VI.,  and  disposed  as  we  now 
see  them  by  Gregory  XVI.,  under 
tbe  direction  of  Caoiuccioi. 

Fint  Room. 


IS  the  Hall ' 


designed  hy  Sernhard  van  Orley 
other  acholars  of  Raphael. 

Capdia  di  San  Lami 
little  chape 
of  Constant 
history  of  art  for  ils  remarkable  frcs- 
coes  by  Btala  Angelito  da  FiettU.  J I 
was  built  by  Nicholas  V.  as  his  pti- 
vale  chapel,  and  as  we  have  already 
remarked,  is  probably  the  only  pari 
of  tbe  Vatican  palace  which  is  older 
Ihantbetiotaof  AlauDdeTVI.   I'he 


Itw 
dertakcD,  as  Vasari  tells  us.  to  redeem 
bis  reputation,  which  had  suffered 
from  the  numerous  works  whose  exe- 
cution he  had  intrusted  to  his  scholars, 

those  executed  entirely  by  his  own 
hand.  The  Transfiguration  was 
painted  for  the  cathedral  of  Norbonaa 
b;  oidei  of  Caidinil  Q\'^\Et  iu£  "^Hs- 


i,  urcUbiilu^  at  dial  city,  niirr- 
rjii  CIvcDCDl  VII.,  and  wiu  not 
BOinpletvJ  wUtn  ibc  iUiutrioui  artltt 
tm  cue  oT  li}  dcaib  M  llic  «ul;  age 
ft  thiity-^veo.  It  WB»  mspcndtd 
— -r  his  cotpse  fu'  ■"■■■il"  i...™-"" 
Ua  lh«  lut  tra 


ija-ere  jecviiitjieupun  U 


iG  f  ears  tbe  picture  was  pre- 
i  tlie  cliurch  of  S.  PictrD  In 
luf-wO,  from  which  it  wan  cemaTed 
a  Paris  \>j  the  French.  On  it«  re- 
in 1SI5  il  was  placed  !□  the 
1  compenasCion  being  granted 


uuion.     Tlie 


■'ofbld   s 


lot  th( 


ctutG  has  been  fre^uenllf  criticised, 
it  it  appears  to  be  in  perfect  aceord- 

ta  produce  a  ^urlc,  in  vhich  IhecaTa- 
nutic*  of  life  should  lead  the  afflicted 
to  look  to  Heaven  for  coinfort  and 
tclieC  In  the  uppyr  part  of  the  com- 
position is  Mount  Tabor  ;  the  three 
aposllei  are  lying  on  the  ground,  un- 


able 


super 


aujB   ro  uear  iiii:  iupomiuia*  iij^ui. 

proceeding  from  the  divinity  of  Christ, 

wlio  il  floating  in  the  air,  accumpa- 

Uued  by  Moaea  and  Elijah,  as  a  pcr- 

ii]i6cation  of  the  power  of  the  Lord 

'  e  source  of  Chrlitiiin  consola- 

I   representation    of 


nanily  : 
■ringing  l( 


le  otlier 


a  boy  poBsemed  of  a  de 
■re  IWfully  coovulseu,  aim  emr/ 
wears  an  expression  of 
of  the  apostles  point 
□dicate  the  only  Power 
vij  ^..oin  ne  can  he  cured.  ^^  In  tlxe 
Jiirjr  oF  the  po$sea5ed,"  saja  T<anzi, 
Tg/H  the  steady  laith  of  the  father,  in 


ilic  (Sliciion  of  a  hidiilifVil  and  inter- 
nliiig    fcmnlc.   and    the    compan ' 
cvin^  by  tbc  apoBtlcs,  he  baa 
pioled  the  moH  paitietic  story  be  an 
conceiTsd,       And   yet    even   all   Un 

much  as  tlte  primary  sutyeel  on  th 
Mount  There  tlieligureKof  Ebetw 
propbels  and  the  three  disuplei  tt 
truly  admirable;  but  dill  more  ad 
mirahle  is  that  of  the  Saiiour,  i 
'  which  «e  seem  to  behold  that  effiil 
gence  of  eternal  glory,  that  spiritsa 
lightneaa,  that  air  of  divinity,  whidii 
will  one  day  bless  the  eyes  of  the 
elect.  In  the  head  of  the  SavioiU,' 
DO  which  he  lavished  all  his 
meetly  and  beauty,  we  sei 
the  last  perfection  of  art  and  tlie  but 
work  of  Raphael.''  Tlie  figure  of  tb^ 
demoniac  boy  is  said  to  have  bttn 
finiitied  by  Ciulio  Romano.  TInl 
two  ecclesiastics  who  are  seen  kaeela 
ing  at  the  extremity  of  the  mount  i 
adoration  of  the  luyaturicusscenca* 
St.  Julian  and  St.  Lawrence,  inin 
duced  at  the  requ«>l  of  Cardinal  it 
Medici,  in  honour  of  tiis  Ather  Gill 
liano  uud  hw  uncle  Lorenzo  the  Mig' 
uificent.  This  anachronism  ia  tfn 
only   portion   of   the    picture   vliie^ 


without  otcrstepping  the  huoiiBlJ) 
which  such  a  work  inspires.  (S.JTP^^^ 
Madaima  di  Fatigtm,  painted  fbl  ti 
church  of  Ara  CnlJi  and  traiui^m 
in  156S  to  the  convent  ofthe  Coutei 
at  Foligno,  It  was  painted  abouttha 
time  when  Raphael  began  thef 
in  the  Stante.  The  Madonna 
presented  with  the  Child  thro 
the  clouds,  surrounded  by  o  .  .  .^^ 
Below,  on  one  side,  is  St.  JeioQMk 
recommending  tuberpTOtcclion  Sigis-. 
mondo  Conti,  uncle  of  tlie  abbess  or 
Foligno,  and  cbieT  secretaiy  of  Juli 
II.,  at  whose  cost  it  Wii9  painted.  Ob. 
the  other  side  are  St.  Francis  and  St. 
John.  In  the  middle,  between  these 
two   gn>up>4,  is   an   angel   holding  a 


ablet,  which 


1  gold  letten,  recording 
if  the  donorand  the  painter, 
ate    1312.       In   the  back- 


f^apal  StatesJ]    R.  27. —  Rome. — Palaces;  the  Vatican.     457 


Ipround  is  the  city  of  Foligno,  with  a 
thunderbolt  or  a  bomb-shell  in  the 
act  of  falling  on  it  —  an  allusion  pro- 
bably to  the  preservation  of  the  eity 
from  some  calamity  of  this  kind, 
ia  which  case  it  was  probably  an 
eX'Voto  picture.  This  picture  is  one 
of  Raphacrs  most  remarkable  ex- 
amples of  the  expression  of  character : 
the  angel  is  the  personification  of 
beauty,  and  the  figure  of  Sigismondo 
Conti  has  all  the  reality  of  life.  In 
the  St.  Francis  we  see  the  fervour  of 
devotion  combined  with  the  expres- 
sion of  those  heavenly  aspirations 
which  were  the  characteristics  of  his 
holy  life.  "  II  quale,**  says  Vasari, 
**  ginocchioni  in  terra  —  giiarda  in 
alto  la  nostra  Donna,  ardendo  di 
carit^,  neir  affctto  della  pittura,  la 
quale  ncl  lineamento  e  nel  colorito 
mostra  clie  e*  si  strugga  di  affezione, 
pigliando  conforto  e  vita  dnl  guardo 
della  bellezza  di  Lei  e  del  Figliuolo.** 
The  picture  was  taken  to  Paris,  where 
it  was  transferred  to  canvas,  and  in- 
jured by  retouching.  —  (3.)  The  Co- 
ronation of  the  Virghit  painted  fur  the 
oonvcnt  of  Monte  Luce,  near  Perugia. 
It  was  commissioned  in  1505,  when 
Raphael  was  in  his  twenty -second 
year;  but  the  multiplicity  of  his  en< 
gagements  did  not  allow  him  to  do 
more  for  many  years  than  make  a 
finished  study  for  the  picture,  which 
is  now  in  the  Lawrence  collection. 
His  occupations  increased  upon  him, 
and  he  had  only  begun  the  upper  part 
of  the  picture  shortly  before  his 
death  :  it  was  then  finislied  by  Giulio 
Romano  and  Francesco  Penni.  It 
bears  all  the  evidence  of  inferior 
bands,  and  can  scarcely  be  classed 
among  the  works  of  the  great  painter, 
llie  upper  part,  painted  by  Giulio 
Romano,  representing  Christ  and  the 
Virgin  throned  in  the  heavens  is  by 
far  the  best.  The  lower  part,  repre- 
senting the  Apostles  assembled  round 
the  tomb  of  the  Virgin,  is  by  Fran- 
cesco Pennu  —  (4. )  The  Coronation 
of  thM  Virgin^  painted  for  the  church 
of  &  Francesco  at  Perugia.  It  is 
one  of  the  earliest  works  of  Raphael,  I 
Cmt,  A 


and  was  executed  during  his  residence 
at  Citta  di  Castello.  The  Madonna 
and  the  Saviour  are  throned  in  the 
heavens,  surrounded  by  angels  bear- 
ing musical  instruments.  Below  are 
the  Apostles  standing  round  the  empty 
tomb,  which  seems  to  have  suggested 
the  idea  imperfectly  followed  out  by 
Francesco  Penni  in  the  picture  just 
described.  The  Prtddla  formerly 
attached  to  this  picture  is  preserved 
in  the  fourth  room  (No.  33.). 

Domenichino.  ~-  (5. )  The  Commu- 
nion OF  St.  Jerome.  —  This  magnifi. 
cent  work,  the  undoubted  masterpiece 
of  Domenichino,  is  generally  consider- 
ed second  only  to  the  Transfiguration 
of  Raphael.  The  composition  is  re- 
markable for  its  unity  and  simplicity 
of  action,  which  explain  the  subject 
at  the  first  glance.  It  was  painted 
for  the  church  of  Ara  Cceli,  but  the 
monks  quarrelled  with  Domenichino 
and  put  the  picture  out  of  sight.  They 
afterwards  commissioned  Poussin  to 
paint  an  altarpiece  for  the  church, 
and  instead  of  supplying  him  with 
new  canvas,  they  sent  him  the  St. 
Jerome  to  be  painted  over.  He  not 
only  refused  to  commit  such  sacrilege* 
but  threw  up  his  engagement,  and 
made  known  the  existence  of  the  pic- 
ture, declaring  that  he  knew  only  two 
painters  in  the  world,  Raphael  and 
Domenichina  To  him  therefore  we 
are  indebted  for  the  preservation  of 
this  masterpiece  of  the  Bolognese 
school.  St.  Jerome,  who  died  at 
Bethlehem,  is  represented  receiving 
the  sacrament  from  St.  Ephraim  of 
Syria,  who  is  clothed  in  the  robes  of 
the  Greek  church :  the  deacon  bear- 
ing the  cup  wears  the  dalmatica,  and 
the  kneeling  attendant  holds  the  book 
of  the  Gospels.  Santa  Paola  kisses 
the  hands  of  the  dying  saint  llie 
Arab  and  the  lion  give  variety  to  the 
composition,  and  identify  it  with  the 
scene  in  which  the  action  is  laid. 

Second  Room. 

Andrea  Saecki, — (6.)  S.  Romualdo, 
painted  for  the  church  of  the  same 
name.     TVa  UAtA.  «xA  \i^  V«^  ^nsoac^ 


IKHITE47. — soMt. —  Ptihnefi  ^Vti^ean>    ^Sect.I. 


■weogni-iing  (lie  y'a'iiin  of  the  ladder 

Mhj  which  Ilia  rallowcn  nawnd  lo  hn- 

Bwn,  Ijfpi^inj  the  glory  of  his  new 

gtdcr.     It  wu  long  reganlcd  as  one 

irtbathTM  Hnnl  alurpieca  in  Rome, 

t*  much  admired  for  the  (kilful 

eatiaeni  of  s  lubjecl,  rendered  ei- 

nely  difficult  hj  the  monolonous 

teoaa  of  the  drniei.     It  U  wid 

I  the  idea  wai  tugijested  hj  liis 

'  g  three  millcn  under  a  Irw,  and 

oiii  this  Bceidental 

e  the  fine  clfeel  of  light 

ud  thade  for  which  this  piclure  is 

I  tcmarkable. 

N.  »««.-«— (7.)  The  Martyrdom 
of  St.  Enanius,  the  lergeil  hiaturical 
tuttjeet  he  ever  painted.  It  ia  copied 
in  monio  in  St.  Fetcr'% 

GMide (8.)   The   Madonna  and 

Child  in  glory,  with  St.  'HiDiniu  and 
SLJerome.  — (9.)The  Crucifixion  of 
St.  Feler,  clashed  by  Lanai  among 
Guido-a  best  works,  in  his  boldest 
(  atfle.  It  !s  said  to  have  been  painted 
']  imitation  of  Catsinggio,  and  to 
v>  been  lo  much  adinin^d  that  it 
ucurcd  him  the  commiuion  (or  the 
a  in  the  Kospiglion  Pnlace. 
iHliiii.  — (10.)  The  Msnyidom 
|«f  S.  Frnccssus  and  S.  Martinian,  an 
laggio  by  the  ablest 
bis  French  pupils,  but  it  seems 
hardly  worthy  of  a  place  in  aueh  a 
collection.  It  lioi,  however,  been 
much  admired,  and  is  copied  in  mosaic 
in  St.  Peter's. 

Canamgs'a  — (H.)  The  Entomb- 
meul  of  Christ,  one  of  the  flncst  speei- 
meoi  of  light  and  shade,  powerfully 
painted,  hut  deficient  in  religious  ei- 
prcodon.  It  is  copied  in  mosaic  in 
the  chapel  of  the  SS.  Sacramento  in 
St.  Peter's. 

3V(WB.— (12.)  Tlie  Madonna  and 
Child  surrounded  by  Angels,  witli 
TBr'ioui  sums  underneath  j  St.  Sebas- 
tian, aline  figure  pierced  witharron-s; 
St,  Francis  with  the  cross,  St.  Antony 
of  Padua  with  the  lily,  St.  Nicholas, 
St.  Ambrose,  and  St  Catherine.  The 
I.  colouring  of  (he  St-  Sebastian  is  of 
tats  Bnat  tind,  and  the  details  of  t\ie 


1,  &«.,  are  elaborately  worked. 


elliwt  it  notr  appears  to  want :  lliis 
upper  part  was  removed,  in  order  lo 
make  the  piclure  a  companion  to  the 
TransHguralion.  In  the  middle  ii 
(he  epigraph  "  Utianui  faciebat." 

•Htird  Room. 

flBTOMio.  — (13.)  The  Plight  o« 
of  Egypt,  a  graceful  liKle  picture, 
formerly  in  Coitel  Oandullb,  and  re- 
moved to  (his  gallery  by  Gregory  XVI. 
—(IS.)  The  Ecstasy  of  S.  Micheliin. 
considered  by  Simunc  CBn(arini  as 
one  of  BsToccio's  Gnest  works,  an 
opinion  in  which  few  who  have  atten- 
tiiely  studied  this  master  will  coDcuT- 
It  WHS  formerly  in  (ho  church  of  S. 
Francesco  at  Pesaro,  Irom  which  it 
was  stolen  by  the  French.  —  (20. ) 
The  Annuneiation,  frequently  d»- 
scribed  ai  the  masterpiece  uf  Banic~ 
cio,  who  made  nn  engraving  of  it  on 
copper.  It  it  a  beautiful  compositiai). 
It  was  fiirnierly  in  one  of  the  cbapeb 
of  the  8.  Maria  at  I.orelo,  but  wn 
carried  to  Paria  in  1797.  On  its»- 
itoration  it  wns  rulaiiied  in  Bmnt,  in 
Guchange  for  a  mosaic  copy. 

ftrKjfBD.  —  (14.)  St.  Benedict  tbe 
Abbot,  8.  Pltcido,  and  Sta.  Flavia, 
formerly  in  (he  Benedictine  church  of 
S.  Pietro  de'  Casinensi  at  Pumg^ 
from  which  they  were  stoten  by  tbt 
French. 

CBerci'ao.— (16.)  St.  John  the  Bap. 
tiat,  formerly  in  the  CapitoL  — (IS.) 
The  Magdalen,  considerably  restond. 
by  Camuccinl.— (21.)  IncreduUtf  of 
St.  Thomas,  a  line  effective  Compod- 
(ion;  the  head  of  the  Saviour  b  par< 
(icularly  grand.    . 

fltaio  Anodira  da   Finoir: (17.) 

Hie  legend  uf  St.  Nicholas  of  Bail 
represented  in  two  predella  picture*, 
formerly  in  Ihe  sacristy  of  S.  Do- 
menico  at  Perugia,  Irom  which  tbejr 
were  carried  by  Ihe  French  to  Paris; 
wherelhethirdatitlremains.  Theyare 
,  choractiTiscd  by  the  peculiar  aweet- 
'  nca  ot  BeaVi  Kis^eYitu,  itiA  me  in- 


Papal  States.']    R.  27. — Rome.  —  Palaces;  the  Vatican.     459 


teresting  both  for  their  colouring  and 
as  studies  of  costume. 

Andrea  Sacchi, — (22.)  St.  Gregory 
the  Great  performing  a  miracle. 

Pintvricchio, — (19.)  The  Corona- 
tion of  the  Virgin :  below,  St.  Francis 
is  kneeling  with  other  saints  and 
bishops  in  adoration. 

Correggioil).  — (23.)  Christ  sitting 
on  the  rainbow,  with  extended  arms, 
surrounded  by  a  host  of  angels:  a 
doubtful  picture,  formerly  in  the  Ma- 
rescalchi  Palace  at  Bologna. 

Fourth  Room, 

Paul  Potter, — (24.)  A  Landscape, 
with  cows  milking. 

Melozzo  da  ForlL-^C^S,)  Sixtus 
IV.  in  the  old  Vatican  library,  with 
his  cardinals  and  officers  of  state, 
giving  audience ;  a  firesco  ori^nally 
painted  on  the  walls  of  the  Vatican 
library,  and  removed  by  Leo  XIL 
Many  of  the  figures  are  ]}ortraits,  and 
are  full  of  character:  the  cardinals 
are  the  two  nephews  of  the  pope.  Car- 
dinal Giuliano  della  Kovere,  after- 
wards Julius  II.,  and  Cardinal  Riario. 
In  the  middle,  the  kneeling  figure  is 
Platina,  the  librarian  of  the  Vatican 
and  historian  of  the  popes.  In  the 
background  arc  two  young  men  in 
rich  dresses:  one  is  the  portrait  of 
Giovanni  deila  Uovere,  brother  of  the 
cardinal ;  the  other  is  that  of  Giro- 
lamo  Iliario,  another  nephew  of  the 
pope,  who  became  celebrated  in  con- 
nection with  the  conspiracy  of  the 
Pazzi,  and  miserably  perished  in  the 
palace  of  Forll,  as  described  at  p.  108. 
This  fresco  was  commissioned  by  him 
and  by  his  brother  the  cardinal,  to 
both  of  whom,  while  in  posseaiion  of 
the  sovereignty  ^  his  native  city, 
Melozzo  was  indented  for  encourage- 
ment and  patronage. 

Perugino, — (26.)  The  Resurrection, 
formerly  in  the  church  of  S.  Fran- 
cesco at  Perugia,  from  which  it  was 
stolen  by  the  French.  The  soldier 
Byiofl  in  alarm  is  ssid  to  be  a  portrait 
of  Perugino,  painted  by  RaphMi* 
whom  Perugino^  on  the  other  hand,  hat 


represented  as  a  young  sleeping  sol- 
dier— (27.)  The  Madonna  and  Child, 
throned,  with  S.  Lorenzo,  S.  Louis,  S. 
Ercolano,  and  S.  Costanzo  in  adora- 
tion. This  picture  was  formerly  in  the 
Palazzo  Comunale  at  Perugia,  and 
was  sent  to  Paris  by  the  French. 

School  of  Perugino.  —  (29.)  The 
Adoration  of  the  Magi :  the  Virgin 
and  Joseph  are  kneeling  on  each  side 
of  the  infant  Saviour;  in  the  back- 
ground are  the  shepherds  and  the 
three  kings,  llie  greater  part  of  the 
picture  is  supposed  to  be  the  work  of 
Pinturicchio  and  Lo  Spagna ;  the  head 
of  Joseph  and  the  three  kings  are 
attributed  to  Raphael. 

Carlo  Crivellif  one  of  the  old  Vene- 
tian masters. — (30.)  The  dead  Christ 
the  Mater  Dolorosa,  with  St.  John 
and  the  Magdalen,  a  lunette. 

Cesare  da  Sesto.  —  (SI.)  The  Ma- 
donna delia  Cintola  between  S.  James 
and  S.  Augustin,  signed  with  the 
painter's  name,  and  dated  1521. 

Titian, — (32.)  The  Doge  of  Venice, 
a  fine  portrait,  formerly  in  the  Aldro- 
vandi  Palace  at  Bologna. 

Beuvenuio  Garofalo,  —  (33.)  The 
Holy  Family;  the  Madonna  and 
Child;  St.  Joseph  and  St.  Catherine; 
formerly  in  the  museum  of  the  Ca- 
pitol. 

Paolo  Veronese. — (34.)  St.  Helena, 
the  mother  of  Constantine,  with  the 
Vision  of  the  Holy  Cross;  formerly 
in  the  Capitol. 

Luca  Signorettif — (35.)  A  predella 
with  the  history  of  a  saint  ( S.  Hya- 
cinthus?)  in  various  compartments; 
a  fine  specimen. 

Raphael,  —  The  Annunciation,  the 
Adoration  of  the  lliree  Kings,  and 
the  Presentation  in  the  Temple: 
three  exquisite  little  pictures,  which 
originally  formed  the  predella  of  tlie 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  (No.  4.)  in 
the  first  room.  —  (37. )  Faith,  Hope, 
and  Charity,  beautiful  circular  me- 
dallions, the  predella  subjlects  of  the 
Entombment  of  Christ  in  the  Bor- 
gfaese  Gallery. 

Andrea    MoMitgna^  —  C^A    '^'^ 


9t»rn97.—  Ji6tiit.—Pahenf  ^Vaitean.  -{S 


m 


f    CdSen'a  Lapidaria,  ■  long  gallcTy, 
'  il  yardt  in  lenglli.  Ibrming  tliP  first 

.  iiDiKiipieiJ  almoBleiclusively  vith  , 
BOitnt   lepulchral    inscriptions    and 

_,  ,  lO  Marini.  Un  ihc  right  hand 
■K  the  Pagnn  inscriptions  in  Greek  , 
•nd  Latin :  thoK  ou  llie  ltd,  with  the 
CXMption  of  a  tew  near  llie  entrance, 
■nvarly  Giriatian.  A  Talk  through 
thia  gallery  i<  like  a  tiail  to  an  an- 
cient ci'Riiitery :  il  ailbriU  ■  complete 
field  or  itudy  lo  the  philologist  anit 
the  anliijuarf,  who  trill  mogaisc 
with  Interest  many  peculiarities  of 
ancient  manners,  forms  of  titlei,  he, 
which  can  be  studied  non-here  with  lo 
much  advnntHge.  The  colleclinn  con- 
tains upo'ards  of  3000  examples,  and 
is  in  erery  respect  the  finest  known. 
The  I^gan  inseriptions  are  classiHed 
Mcording  to  ranks  and  professions, 
from  diviniliei  lo  slaves,  including 
those  relating  to  the  gods,  ministers 
at  religion,  emperors,  magitirales. 
soldiers,  artisans,  and  freedmen.  No- 
thing is  so  sulking  in  the  Itoman 
inscriptions  as  the  frequent  disregard 
of  grammar  and  orthography ;    and 

citable  with  the  laws  of  metre,  siiow- 
is  nf  the  ancients 


iienllv 


corded    i 


U^  as  little  lo 
of  literary  ta 
time.      The 


Greek  origin ;  and  wherever  thesi 
occur  the  grammatical  errors  are  par. 
ticularly  apparent,  proving  in  a  re- 
roarkahle  manner  how  iropeifectly  th. 
Idtia  language  was  acijuircd  by  the 
foreign  settlers  and  freedmen.  Some 
"  ■  !  Roman  trades  are  eilreinely 
refer 


Camrii  PrriignaUr,  or  imperial  VB- 
tnryj  the  Eraiirator  CalcarItU,  « 
■cavengeri  the  Piitar  Mii^Hariiu,  OT 
wholesale  baker  ;  and  the  MitnciilBrIB 
Cur.  Corporis  Marit  Hadrittid,  tha 
'tsioner  of  the  Hadriilio  Com- 
Besides  these  intcriptions  tbera 
are  many  interesting  sarcophagi,  fu- 
neral altars,  and  cippi,  with  some 
finely- worked  fragments  of  archite^ 
lural  ornsments,  found  cliieBy  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  O&tia.  On  one  of 
the  largest  sarcophagi  are  lioni  de> 
voiirJng  har»s  and  other  animalt  in 
bold  relief.  The  cippus  bearing  the 
if  Lucius   Alimelus  ia  om>> 


anted  w 


-elief^  ] 


^nuff' 


«whicl 
to  the  companies  fomied  by  Ale> 
Sererus.  We  recognise  the  Ntm 
tint,  or  banker ;  the  Mcdicui  Jn 
or  cattle-doctor ;  the  Zrom' 
iteher;  the  JUarmornri ai,  or  mi 


a  culler's  shop  and  his  forge,  an  ob- 
Tious  allusion  to  hit  profenion.  On 
the  left  side  of  the  corridor  are  the 
tarly  Chritlian  interiptiani,  found  in 
the  catacombs.  These  arc  not  ar- 
ranged on  the  classified  plan  obaetTied 
in  the  Pagan  monuments.  It  it  im- 
pi>ssible  to  imagine  a  scries  of  awn 

ages  of  Christianity,  whctlier  we  ic- 
gard  them  as  proo^  of  the  fiutent  ' 
riles  and  religious  symbols  of  Uc 
early  Christians,  or  estimate  Unit 
value  in  conneiion  with  the  histocy 
of  the  Church  and  the  chronology  of 
the  consuls  during  the  4th  and  5lh 
cenlurjes.  The  errors  oforlhopraphf 
and  grammar  noticed  in  the  F^an 
inscripiions  are  still  more  striking  in 
■hose  of  the  Christians ;  they  tboir 
the  rapid  corruption  of  the  I^tia 
Isngtioge,  and  sometimes  mark  tb« 
periods  when  matters  of  faith  were 
introduced.  The  inscriptions  are  tm. 
iguently  very  touching:  the  lull ucncs 
of  a  purer  creed  is  apparent  in  the 
constant  reference  to  a  stale  beyond 
the  grave,  which  conlrastB  in  a  strik- 
ing manner  with  the  hopeless  gri*f 
expressed  in  the  Roman  monuments. 
The  represeDtslions  which  accompany 
the  inscriptions  are  generally  symboli- 

'  known  lOd'nojiiHii  o?  Ctrisl,  formed. 


Papal  States,"^   r.  27. —  rome. — Palaces;  the  Vatican.      461 


by  the  Greek  letters  X  and  P;  the 
fish,  or  the  ix^St  composed  of  the 
initial  letters  of  the  common  Greek 
epigraph,  expressing  **  Jesus  Christ 
the  Son  of  God,  the  Saviour ;  **  the 
vine,  the  dove  with  the  olive-branch, 
the  anchor,  the  palm,  and  the  sheep. 
The  Christian  bas-reliefs  of  the  4th 
and  5th  centuries  are  taken  in  a  great 
measure  from  the  history  of  the  Old 
Testament  and  from  the  life  of  the 
Saviour  previous  to  the  crucifixion. 
The  representation  of  the  godhead 
does  not  occur  on  any  monument 
which  is  referred  upon  good  evidence 
to  the  first  four  centuries;  and  the 
subject  of  the  crucifixion  is  so  rarely 
met  with,  that  it  would  seem  to  have 
been  purposely  avoided  for  at  least 
two  centuries  later.  The  Virgin  and 
Child  is  supposed  to  have  been  intro- 
duced in  the  6th  century  for  the 
first  time,  as  a  distinct  composition. 
A  careful  examination  of  these  monu- 
ments is  an  appropriate  and  instruc- 
tive study  afler  a  visit  to  the  Cata- 
combs. 

Museo  Chiaramonti,  formed  almost 
entirely  by  Pius  VII.,  and  arranged  by 
Canova.    It  forms  the  second  division 
of  the  gallery,  and  independently  of 
the  new  wing,  called  the  Nuovo  Braccio, 
contains  upwards  of  700  pieces  of  an- 
cient sculpture,  arranged  in  thirty  com- 
partments.    Many  are,  of  course,  of 
inferior  interest ;  but  taken  as  a  whole, 
the  collection  in  any  other  place  but 
Rome  would  be  considered  a  museum 
in  itself.     The  following  are  the  most 
remarkable  objects:  —  Compartment  I. 
. —  1 .  Bas-relief  of  a  sarcophagus,  with 
winged  bacchanalian  figures,  supposed 
to  be  engaged  in  the  Pythic  games. 
2.  Apollo  seated,  a  bas-relief,  found  in 
the  Coliseum  during  the  excavations 
of  1B03.     5.    A  beautiful  fragment  of 
a  draped  female  figure,  found  at  Ostia. 
6.  Autumn,  a  recumbent  figure  sur- 
rounded by   bacchanalians,  found  at 
Ostia,  placed  on  a  sarcophagus,  with 
bas-reliefs  of  a  husband,  wife,  and  a 
child  wearing  the  bulla.     13.  Winter, 
a  recumbent  figure  of  the  same  kind, 
surrounded  bjrgeaiiplayiDg  with  swans 


and  tortoises,  also  found  at  Ostia,  and 
placed  on  a  republican  sarcophagus 
with  bas-relie&  of  a  husband  and  wife, 
and  their  son,  bearing  the  name  of 
Publius  Elius  Venis.  Compartment  IJ, 
— 14.  Euterpe,  found  in  the  gardens  of 
the  Quirinal.   17*  Silenus.   19.  Parii. 
Compartment  III.— 23.  The  Calydo> 
nian  boar-hunt.     26.    Septimius   Se- 
verus.   SO.  Antoninus  Pius.   S3.  The 
young  Marcus  Aurelius.     42.   Alex- 
ander the  Great.   49.  Agrippa.    Cont' 
partment  IV. — 62.  A  wrestler  resting, 
called  the  Marcellus.    64.  Trigan;  the 
bust  of  alabaster,  and  the  head  of  black 
basalt.     65,   Augustus,  also  of  black 
basalt.    Compartment  y, — 70.  A  Bac- 
chic priest.     74.  Pluto  and  Cerberus, 
a  fine  sitting  statue,  found  in  the  Villa 
Negroni.      81.   Ceres.      84.   A  satyr 
playing  on  the  fiute,  found  in  Hadrian*8 
villa.     107.  Julius  Caesar.     113.  ^s- 
culapius.    Coiii/wrtwi^n/ VI.  ^120.  A 
vestal,  found  in  Hadrian*s  villa.  1 2 1 .  A 
sitting  female  figure,  supposed  to  be 
Clio.     122.   Diana,  of  Greek  work- 
manship.   Compartment  Y 11. — 130.  A 
bas-relief  of  considerable  interest,  illus- 
trating some  religious  mystery,  con- 
nected probably  with  the  worship  of  the 
sun ;  the  style  indicates  the  decline  of 
art  132.  Rome(?).  135.  Julius  Caesar 
veiled  as  the  Pontifex  Maximus.  144. 
A  bearded  Bacchus,  formerly  mistaken 
for  Plato.     1 48.  The  swan's  nest,  an 
allegorical  allusion  to  filial  love,  a  rare 
example.     157.   Flavia,  wife  of  Ves- 
pasian, and  mother  of  Titus.   159.  Do> 
mitia.    1 65.  A  female  bust,  a  portrait, 
as  Venus.  165  (  A.).  The  young  Nero, 
greatly  repaired.   173.  Silenus  thrown 
from  the  ass,  a  bas-relief.      Compart' 
ment  VIII.  — 176.  Niobe,  a  mutilated 
but  remarkable  figure,  found  in  Ha- 
ldrian*s  villa.     181.    Diana  trifomiis. 
;  182.   A  square  altar,  with  interesting 
bas-reliefs,    representing    Venus^  and 
Cupids,  with  bacchantes,  at  the  Diony- 
siac  festivals.   Compartment  IX. — 197, 
'  Colossal  bust  of  Minerva,  in  Greek 
marble,  found  at  Tor  Paterno,  the  site 
of  ancient  Laurentum.     198.  Cippua 
of  large  sixe,  with  ftck«  tci^^CkV^^^A 
'  reVicfe,  found  \ti  \\veN>\\t.  ^v3*<>sm>5s^ 


FOCTKfiT. —  HOMB. —  Pataeti ;  the  Vatictm. 


d  pn«m(rd  bj  Cwion.  519.  lui. 
^1.  ADIanU.wilaof  DciuuE(?>  3ao. 
Wf  cippui  of  Lucia  Telnin*,  rirhljr 
Mnxnled  vilh  ■phfnin,  runi' 
■ik  Ac  aoil  ■  Im-rtlief.  containing 
tall^urical  alluiion  lo  the  d«lh  of 
* 'mna  and  her  child.  S3!.  Scipio 
__ie>no(:  the  buit  of  white  marble. 
jfl  tb*  head  of  n«To  antics.  Comparl- 
Mllinfi 


e  pUilosoplie, 


\finc 


lil><rn)nU.       Conpartmtnl  XI. — 2S4. 

Nlobe.  S.^;.  Jupiter  SerapU.  3(34. 
TuiiD  af  a  imj.     584.  •  A  bo;  with  * 

hii  apron,  wry  graceful.  287.  Tlie 
■Ifcplng fithi'r-boy.  Compartmnil  XII. 
_— 394.  ColooiUltalueof  Hercules.re- 

Ihe  arm  and  1  eft  leg  by  A 1  rasan- 
d'Eiite,  rrom  the  designs  of  Canova. 

wrealler  reposin;;,  found  near 
..  _  'AnEO.     2S8.    A  fine  torso  of 

"BaiMUus.  CumpnrtJBMl  XIII.~300. 
Pragnienl  of  a  shield,  vith  fighting 
AiDBiDtiB  in  relieE  308.  Cupid  riding, 
on  a  dolphin.  309.  A  tigrem,  icry 
spirited.  315.  A  tiger,  in  Egyptian! 
granite  3S9.  Fragment  ofnltas-Telief 
lepMsenling  the  atory  of  Diana  and' 
Aotnon.  346.  A  shepherd  carrying  a 
lamb.  349.  Fragment  of  a  silting 
muse;  Polyhymnia  (?).  350.  Clio.  351. 
Melpomene.  Cnnpartmint  XIV.— 
353.  Vcnui  Anadyomene.  353.  Venus 
on  a  rock,  found  in  the  Quirinal  gar- 
dens. 354.  Another  Vtnua,  supposed 
to  be  coming  out  ofthe  bath.  355-6. 
Two  Tery  beautiful  female  statues, 
evidently  portraits.  S57.  A  capti.e 
king,  in  pavonaiietto,  from  the  Villa 
Negroni.  CompaiimentXV. — 360.  An! 
alto-relievo,  with  three  finely  draped, 
dancing  female  Hgiircs,  of  an  early  pe- 
riod of  ancient  art ;  found  near  the 
Latenin  Palace.  Fevr  of  the  niime- 
roua  busts  in  this  division  have  been 
identified.  392.  Hadrian.  Cmapart- 
BtcBfXVr.  — 399.  Tiberius,  a  colossal 
bust,  fiiund  in  the  eieavations  at  Vuii. 
40O,  A  silling  statue  of  Tiberius,  in 
iJ/e  logs,  ir/tJt  a  crown  of  oak ;  this 
interesting  statue  ivtis  also  found  at 


Vi'ii  in  181 1.     401.   Augustus,  a  eo- 

partmmt  XVII. — 408.  A  bBS-Tnlief 
of  ■  fbur- wheeled  chariot,  with  tbe 
auriga,  and  a  male  and  ft-male  figure. 

Parian  marble,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful busts  known,  found  at  Ostla,  in 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
by  Mr.  Fagao,  the  British  consul.  It 
represents  the  emperor  at  the  nge  of 
about  sixteen,  and  the  most  emir 


4SI. 

Demosthenes.  49S.  Cicero.  497. 
SeptimiuE  Severus.  441.  Ateibiades. 
ComparliiuHt  XVIII.— 451.  A  nymph. 
453.  Venus.  453.  Melcager  restored 
as  nn  emperor,  holding  a  glolie  ind  ■ 
Victory.  4.54.  .liseulapiua.  Compart- 
meM  XIX,— Fragment,  with  an  «lle- 
gori.al  rcprescnlalion  of  the  publia 
games,  and  genii.  461.  A  stork.  403. 
■      'Id  boar  ir 


Mithni 


i  sacrifice.       465.     As 


red  by  Ftanioni.  46& 
A  phtcnix  on  tbe  burning  pile,  uniqua 
473.   Antoiiia.  wife  of  Dru 

(JOrftMBtXX 49.'}.  An  antique  cupf 

ofthe  CuPin  OF  FaAHiTtLEsin    '     "" 
of  liending  his  bow,  highly  inti  _ 

from  the  description  of  Fhilottnttaik 
Tlio  celchraled  sitting  si 


Tiberi 


Pipern, 


It  the  ei 


istenee.     495.   Anutlict  repetition  of 
the  Curin  at  Fkaiit.         '       "   "   ' 


le  Capitc 


nLond 


found  in  Hadrian's  villa,  restored  as 
Clolho.  Onupartmest  XXI.— 
Antoninus  Pius  with  the  avio  ci 
509.  Ariadne.  SlOCa),  Cato. 
Juno,  recently  Ibund  near  St.  John 
Laieian.  511  (a),  M 
Veniu,  in  Greek  marble,  found  in  the 
Baths  of  Dloeletiau.  531  (a),  Rio- 
cion  (?).  533.  A  female  figure  ai 
Pcoaerpinc,  with  a  funeral  chaplel 
\ and  a \am\i -.    "  '"' '"  "  '  "~ 


Pa^  Siates.'}    r.  27* —  home. —  Palaces  ;  tfie  Vatican.     463 


but  of  inferior  art.  534.  Juno,  found  | 
at  Ostia.  535  (a).  Claudius.  Con^ 
partmeni  XXII.  —  544.  Silenus,  with 
a  tiger,  a  very  beautiful  piece  of  sculp- 
ture, found  at  L*Ariccia.  546.  Sa- 
bina,  wife  of  Hadrian,  as  Venus,  well 
known  by  the  description  of  Visconti. 
547.  Isis,  a  colossal  bust  in  Pentelic 
marble.  On  the  oippus  below,  a  poet 
surrounded  by  various  muses,  and  an 
inscription  in  Greek  hexameters.  Com- 
partment XXIII.  —  550.  Fragment 
with  a  shield  of  Medusa,  and  a  chace 
of  different  animals, supposed  to  allude 
to  the  games  of  the  Amphitheatrum 
Castrense  (p.  342.).  554.  Antoninus 
Pius.  555.  Pompey.  556,  The  young 
Lucius  Verus.  560.  Trajan.  561.  The 
fiither  of  Trajan  (?).  566.  Fragment, 
representing  the  interior  of  a  temple, 
with  females  engaged  in  sacrifice,  and 
a  richly-worked  frieze  with  sacrificial 
instruments,  referring  probably  to  the 
£leusinian  mysteries.  567.  Allegorical 
figure  of  some  eastern  divinity,  resem- 
bling the  monkish  representations  of 
Satan  in  the  middle  ages ;  found  at 
Ostia.  568.  Bas-relief  of  a  Mithratic 
sacrifice,  from  Ostia.     574.  Hadrian. 

Con^ftartment  XXIV 587.    Ceres. 

The  cippus  underneath  bears  the  name 
of  Carpus  Pallentianus,  prefect  of  the 
public  stores :  on  one  side  he  is  repre- 
sented on  his  voyage  to  fetch  grain 
from  Egypt,  indicated  by  the  obelisk ; 
on  the  other  Ceres  is  searching  for 
Proserpine.   This  interesting  fragment 
was  presented  by  Canova.    589.  Mer- 
cury,  a  very  graceful   statue,   found 
near  the  Monte  di  Pieti^.    591.  Clau- 
dius.   Compartm^eni  XXV. — 598.  Car- 
neades.       600.   Augustus.      606  (a). 
Neptune.     621.  Typhon.    625.  Anti- 
nous  (?).    626.   Ennius.     Compartment 
X  XVI.— 636.  Ceres,  with  the  head  of 
the  younger  Faustina.    It  stands  on  a 
square  altar  with  interesting  reliefs  of 
different  divinities,  two  on  each  side : 
1.  Apollo  and  Diana;    2.   Mars  and 
Mercury ;  3.  Fortune  and  Hope ;  4. 


mythologists  as  one  of  the  rarest  re- 
presentations of  Juno  in  this  character. 
642-3.  Fragments  of  bas-reliefs  relat- 
ing to  Bacchus,  finely  worked  in  Pen- 
telic marble,  found  in  Hadrian's  villa. 
644.  Reliefrepresenting  the  dances  at 
the  Dionysiao  mysteries,  a  beautiful 
fragment,  found  in  the  Villa  Palom- 
bara  on  the  Esquiline.  651.  The 
boy  with  the  goose,  found  at  Ostia. 
653  (a).  Antoma.  655,  The  genius  of 
Death.  668.  Jupiter  Serapis.  Com- 
partment  XXVIII.  _682.  Hygeia. 
684.  ^sculapius,  a  fine  statue,  found 
at  Ostia.  686.  The  Vestal  Tutia, 
who  proved  her  chastity  by  carrying 
water  in  a  sieve  from  the  Tiber  to 
the  Temple  of  Vesta.  Compartment 
XXIX.  — 693.  The  young  Hercules. 
698.  Cicero,  an  interesting  bust,  found 
near  the  tomb  of  Caecilia  Metella.  700. 
A  colossal  bust  of  Antoninus  Pius, 
found  at  Ostia.  701.  Ulysses  and 
the  Cyclops.  709.  A  bas-relief,  beauti- 
fully worked,  with  Bacchus  riding  on 
the  tiger,  and  Silenus  on  the  ass.  713. 
Melpomene.  Compartment  XXX.— 
A  colossal  recumbent  statue  of  Her- 
cules, found  in  Hadrian's  villa,  for- 
merly in  the  Villa  d'Este. 

Nuovo  BracciOf  the  hall  of  the  Mu- 
seo  Chiaramonti,  built  by  Pius  VII. 
in  1817,  from  the  designs  of  the  Ger- 
man architect  Raphael  Stem.     It  is 
a  noble  hall,  nearly  230  feet  in  length, 
and  well  lighted  from  the  roof,  which 
is  supported  by  twelve  fine  columns 
with    Corinthian   capitals.      Two   of 
these,   of  giallo  antico,   were   taken 
from  the  tomb  of  Ca&cilia  Metella ;  two 
are  remarkably  fine  specimens  of  ci- 
pollino,   and  two   are   of  dark   grey 
Egyptian  granite.    The  floor  is  paved 
with   bi'autiful    marbles   and   ancient 
mosaics  carefully  restored.     Thete  are 
forty-three    statues   and   seventy-two 
busts   in   the  collection :  the  statues 
are   mostly   placed    in    niches ;    the 
busts  stand  on  columns  of  red  Oriental 


granite.  The  frieze  is  composed  of 
Hercules  and  Sylvanus.  639.  Flora  (?).  |  bas-reliefs,  arranged  and  chiefiy  com- 
Compartment  XXVII. — 641.  Juno  '  posed  by  Laboureur,  the  late  presi- 
Pronuba  persuading  Thetis  to  marry  |  dent  of  the  Academy  of  St.  Luke, 
Peleus;  a  bas-relkf  of  great  interest  to  Neax\y  tXV  \\i«  \)>\%\»  ^'d.xcc^  ^xcrav  ^^^ 


ncrtJTi  sy. —  Ttom.'— ntaetg  I  ^t  Rtfftwir. 


t.Hp«l>  cdIIk 


breii  idciitifin!.  Thv 
rullowinj  ini  the  oiimT  rRiia(kiibl«  ob- 1 
Jccbi — 5.  A  Concphnn. or  CarjaEld,  j 
ur  Ant  Gneic  »orkin>n>hii>,  Ihc  liead 
■nilfurMrnKralarHl  by  Thorwililwn. 
i.  Statue  of  CmnmiKlua  (?;,  in  Pen- 
IeIic  Riarblr.     9.   Ciiloual   litaid  of  n 

D«i.n.  from  tl«  Forum  of  Traj.n. 

II.  KIpntit  nunmg  the  inrant  IW- 
chu«k   fhiin   tbe    Ruitpoli    cuLlectlon. 


deni.      IT.   I 


Ihe  heiil 

Cliiudiuf.  Ibund  at  Hperno ;  pari  of 
a  ilaluc,  of  which  some  other  frag- 
mciiti  are  prtaeryed  in  the  Gnlleria 
Laiiidaria.  SO.  Nerva  n-earing  the  i 
log*.  S6.  Sutue  of  Titus,  found  in 
\M8  iwar  the  Lateran,  vilh  those  of  | 
his  daughter  Julia  (  Noa.  SB.  and  1 1 1  .)• 
■ritorvd  b;  Ca*.  d'Ette.  ST.  4a  94. 
Iia  Colossal  masks  of  arcduu.ruund 
in  Ihe  tuins  of  the  Tcinple  of  Venus 
and  Rome;  onciia  caste.  39.  Statue 
of  Slenui,  in  Parian  mnrble.  31.  A 
priestess  of  li'a,  in  Greek  mnrblri 
39,  33.  Two  Fauns  icaled,  Ibund  in 
the  villa  of  QuintiUus  at  Ti>oli.  ST. 
Swiue  of  Diana,  in  Penlelic  marble. 
33.  Sintue  of  Ganymede,  found  in 
the  ruins  ofmne  baths  at  Ostia:  on 
Ihe  bark  of  the  tree  against  which  he 
rests  is  engraved  ihe  name  of  Phm- 
dimua.  39.  A  large  ttae  in  black 
Egyptian  basalt,  exquisitely  worked, 
found  in  fragments  on  the  Monte 
Catslto,  near   the  cburuh  of  S.  An- 


,   but  few  of  their   in    Gieek    marbli'.   nilh   the   camn- 

pio.      GS.    ^•TU(    or   DcHOKTUXilEI. 

e  of  Ihe  finest  and  most  celebrated 
the  rotleclion.  It  wnn  fbund  in  the 
Villa  Atdobrandini  bL  Frascali,  and 
was  formeriy  in  the  collection  of  Ca- 
muceini.  The  subject  of  the  bas- 
relief  near  this,  representing  Ulysses 
slaying  the  suitors,  is  laLcn  from 
Flax  man's  illuKtrations  of  the  Odysse;. 
68.  The  young  Marcus  Aurelius.  69. 
The  Emperor  Gordtan  (7).  70.  Tba 
young  Caracslla,  ftom  the  Ruspoli 
collection.  Tl.  Statue  of  the  fighting 
Amazon,  from  the  collection  of  Ca- 
muceini ;  the  arms  are  modern.  73. 
Bust  of  Ptolemy,  son  of  Juba  king  of 
Mauritania,  and  the  grandson  of  An- 
tony and  Cleopatra.  7G.  Alexander 
Severus.  77.  Statue  of  An tonia,  wife 
of  the  elder  Druius,  and  mother  of 
Germsnicus,  Claudius,  and  Livia;  i 

for  the  perfection  of  the  drapery !  the 
right  arm  and  band  are  colored,  but 
the  led,  which  holds  up  the  robes,  fats 
■  ring  on  the  rinf;-lingcr.  Il  wn 
found  among  the  ruins  of  Tusoulum^ 
above  FrascalL  80.  Statue  of  Pl»- 
tina,  wife  of  Trajan  (?).  81.  Bust 
of  Hadrian  83.  Statue  of  DUna. 
greatly  reiHored,  found  at  Hadrian's 
villa  at  Tivoli  BG.  Sutue  of  For- 
tune, wearing  b  diadem,  and  &  vol 
hanging  over  the  back  part  of  the 
a  Indicate  her  mysterious  origan; 


The  I 


anda, 


symbob. 

arabesques,"  &c.,  was  found  at  Tor 
Illorancio,  beyond  tbe  Rate  of  San 
Scba«tianu.  41.  A  small  statue  of  a 
Faun  playing  on  the  flute,  found  in 
the  ruins  of  the  villa  of  Lucullus,  in 
the  Lago  Circeii.  44.  Statue  of  the 
wounded  Amazon.  48.  Bust  of  Tra- 
jan. SO.  Slatue  of  Diana  in  the  act  of 
contemplating  Eudymion,  found  about 
two  miles  beyond  the  PorU  Catalleg- 
gieri.  S3.  Statue  with  tbe  face  of  Eu- 
ripides, from  the  GLustinianl  Palace. 
SS.  Julia,  daughter  of  Titus,  fbund 
n-j(A  No.  26.     59.   S::t:ue  of  Forluna, 


she  holds  Ihe  rudder  and  (he  horn  ot 
plenty;  a  very  valuable  and  beaulinit 
statue,  finely  preaerYed;  it  was  found 
at  Ostia.  S7.  Bust  bearing  Ihe  name 
of  SalluBt,  very  doubtful.  88.  Bust 
of  Lucius  Anlonius,  brother  of  (be 
triumvir.  91.  Bust  of  Mirciana, 
sister  of  Trsjan.  92.  Venus  Anadyo- 
mene,  in  Greek  marble.  The  mo- 
saie  pavement  in  Ihe  centre  of  tbe 
homicycle  is  an  interesting  specimen, 
well  known  by  the  leajned  illuatra- 
tinns  of  the  Visconti.  It  represents 
Diana  of  Ephesus,  with  arahesqtira 
and  ailegnrical  aUusions  lu  thepoweia 
of  nature.  It  was  fbund  at  Poggio 
Mirtcto,  among  Ihe  Sabine  hills.    95. 


Papal  SiatesJ]    R.  2t.—  Rome.—  Palaces ;  (he  Vaiican.      465 


the   right  arm   is   restored.     96  (a). 
Bust  of  Marc  Antony,  found  with  that 
of  Lepidus(No.  106.)at  Tor  Sapienza, 
beyond   the    Porta    Maggiore.      97. 
99.  101.  103.  105.    The  five  athletes, 
placed   in   the   niches  of  the    henii- 
cycle ;  the  third  was  found  with  the 
graceful  Faun  (No.  41.)  near  the  Lago 
Circeii ;  the  other  four  are  from  the 
villa  of  Quintillus  at  Tivoli.     Above, 
in  the  middle  of  the  hemicycle,  is  a 
bust  of  Pius  VJI.,  the  most  excellent 
of  pontiffs  and  the  patriotic  founder 
ofthis  gallery, l)y  Canova.      102.  Bust 
of  Augustus  Caesar.      102  (a).   Corn- 
modus.      106*.    Lepidus,   found    with 
No.  9G.       107.    A    small    statue     of 
Minerva  armed,   in    Greek    marble. 
108.     A    small   statue   of    Diana,   in 
Greek    marble.       109.    The    colossal 
group   of  the    Nile,   found   near  the 
church   of  S.  Stefano  del   Cacco,  the 
site  of  the  Temple  of  Isis,  in  the  pon- 
tificate of  Leo  X.,  who  placed  it  in 
the  Belvedere,     llie   Nile  is  one  of 
the  grandest  figures  in  the  Vatican; 
the  sixteen  children  who  play  around 
him  are  allegorical  allusions   to   the 
sixteen  cubits  at  which  the  rise  of  the 
river   be;j;ins    to    irrigate    the   land : 
nearly  all  these  children  are  modern. 
On  the  base  are  various  symbolical 
representations  of  the  river,  the  Nile 
boats  the  ibis,  the  hippopotamus,  and 
the  alligator.      111.   Statue  of  Julia, 
the  daughter  of  Titus  found  with  the 
statue  of  Titus  (  No.  26. )  near  the  La- 
tcran;  restored  by  Cav.  d*£ste.     112. 
Bust  of  Juno  llegina.  114.  Minbrva 
Medica,  the   finest  draped  statue  in 
Rome,  found  on  the  Esquiline  in  the 
ruins  of  the  temple  of  the  same  name. 
No  description  can  do  justice  to  this 
noble   statue ;    the  greatest    modem 
sculptors  have  regarded  it  with  admi- 
ration :  it  is  of  Parian  marble,  and  was 
formerly  in  the  Giustiniani  collection. 
l*he  right  arm  and  lefl  fingers  are  new. 
117.   Statue  of  Claudius  in  the  toga, 
from  the  Uuspoli  gallery.     120.  llie 
Faun  or  Praxiteles,  an  antique  copy, 
in  Greek  marble,  highly  interesting 
from  the  descriptions  of  Philostratut. 
There  ture  two  of  tbete  repetitions  in 


the  Vatican,  and  one  in  the  Capitol ; 
the  latter  is  the  finest.  121.  Bust  of 
Commodus,  one  of  the  finest  known ; 
found  at  Ostia.  123.  Heroic  statue 
of  Lucius  Verus,  restored  by  Pacetti. 
127.  Colossal  head  of  a  Dacian  slave, 
belonging  probably  to  a  full-length 
figure  in  the  Forum  of  Trajan.  129. 
Statue  of  Domitian,  from  the  Giusti' 
niani  collection.  1 32.  Statue  of  Mek* 
cuar,  in  Pentelic  marble,  the  finest 
statue  of  Mercury  known.  It  was 
formerly  in  the  gardens  on  the  Quiri* 
nal,  and  was  recognised  by  Canova, 
who  had  it  removed  to  the  Vatican, 
'llie  head  was  found  in  the  Coliseum 
in  1803.  134.  Head  of  Vespasian, 
recently  adapted  to  a  bust  with  a  tunic 
of  verde  antico.  135.  Hermes,  in 
Pentelic  marble,  with  a  modern  head, 
celebrated  for  the  inscription  in  Greek 
hexameters  at  the  base,  illustrated  by 
Winckelmann,  Visconti,  and  Nibby. 
It  was  formerly  in  the  Villa  Negroni. 
Tor  de*  Ventiy  called  also  the  Hemi- 
cycle  of  the  Belvedere.  The  first  five 
rooms  contain  an  extensive  series  of 
busts,  mostly  of  unknown  persons, 
and  of  inferior  workmanship.  In  the 
second  room  are  three  which  bear  the 
names  of  Manilius  Hellas,  Lucius 
Manilius  Primus  snd  Manilius  Faus- 
tus ;  they  were  found  in  a  tomb  on 
the  Appian  beyond  the  gate  of  San 
Sebastiano,  together  with  that  num- 
bered 790,  which  ap))ear8  to  belong 
to  the  same  family,  but  bears  no  name. 
Beyond  the  fif>h  room  is  the  semicir* 
cular  gallery  containing  the  EgypHan 
Miueum  purchased  by  Pius  VII. 
firom  Andrea  Guidi,  and  the  various 
Egyptian  antiques  formerly  dispersed 
through  the  Capitoline  and  other 
museums.  Though  small  in  extent, 
it  contains  some  interesting  objects. 
The  most  remarkable  are  the  ten 
sitting  statues  of  l8is(?),  as  large  as 
life,  in  black  basalt,  found  among  the 
ruins  of  Carnac;  a  mummy  in  a 
richly  ornamented  case ;  and  eight 
cabinets  of  Egyptian  antiquities  filled 
with  idols  bronze  and  porcelain  ve»< 
selst  mumnueft  c^  iLtCvm«\.%>V.^.<»  Vtw\<^o^ 
it  11  Xkimewna^T^  \o  '^wtCvt>a\%rafc  \a. 


4C(J        HODTH97.— ROMS.— Prtftn-M;  the  VaTiioji.    [Sfec^TT^ 

il«»ll.  Among  the  olher  objocli  of  ipli'tidid  workj  of  pupal  limes.  [It 
inti-reit  an  tlic  Tarw  of  a  priot  in  U  niveiurf  to  mention  here  that  the 
vliite  unclitime,  of  tbe  time  of  I'aaui-  immh«r>  on  the  diHerent  objecta  have 
ineticui  Ti  the  bsie  of  a  statue  of.bueD  (Vequentljr  changed,  and  tiMt 
SooUri*  in  bUck  grauile ;  a  tarco-  miinj  of  them  do  not  occur  ip  r^u- 
pbainu  >■>  b.-na]t;  and  ■  ucrificiBi ,  lar  wquence.  The  principal  nlueeli, 
ublein  rrdnndstcHie.  Twca,  mother  however,  which  ve  ihall  DDtice  are 
of  Seurtri*.  in  bluck  granite,  wilh  to  conipicuoiii,  that  Die  ilrangcr  wiU 
hierugljrphict ;  the  tame  in  red  gra-  .  hate  no  diflicully  in  recognising  them 
o1te,  uf  Iha  time  of  the  Plotemici,  at  onceindepcndenlljof  the  nunibera.] 
both  found  in  the  gardens  of  SalluiL  I  Entrana.  ^-  I.  Square  vesdhule, 
The  ilatuct  found  in  the  hall  dedi- )  adorned  nilU  arabesijuta  by  Daaide 
catcd  to  Canopua  in  Hadrian-*  villa  da  Volttrra.  I'he  I'oaso  llzLvirDiai, 
arc  nol  genuine  Egyptian  moniiments,  iculplured  by  Apollonius,  son  of  Kei* 
hut    merely   copin    of    the   time    of  tor  uf  Athent,  us  n>e  Icatii  by  a  Greek 

Hadiian.      Their  aole  intereil.thi  -  -  

fute,  eonaisu  in   their  being  iJJuFi 
»  of  the  art  and  taite  of  the  period.   I 


Tlie  double  hemics  of  ttU  and  Apis 

drcti  of  peacock's  fealhets,  the  Sera- 
prs  bearing  the  modius  on  his  head  as 
an  emblem  of  (ecundily,  tbe  marble 
(tBiue  of  Anubii  wilh  the  dog'i  head, 
and  tlie  fine  head  of  Hadrian,  are  more 
remarkable.  The  last  three  chambers 
are  called  the  Mtaeo 


V  Fio-a 


called  fri 


t  XIV. 
VI.,  irom  whom  it  receive 
important  acceasions  and  its  greatest 
Hplendour.  It  contaim  [he  collections 
made  by  Julius  II..  Len  X  ,  Cle- 
ment VII.,  and  Paul  111.,  and  is 
without  exception  the  most  magniH- 

tbe  world.  Rub  VI.  contributed 
more  munificently  to  its  completion 
than  any  of  liis  predecessors,  and  there 
is  hardly  a  comer  of  tbe  museum  in 
which  some  object  does  not  bear  the 
inaeriiition,  MimificEntiA  Fii  Scxti. 
The  freijuent  recurrence  of  this  re- 
cord baa  been  ridiculed  by  Pasquio ; 
but  the  beat  apology  for  the  pope  is 
the  >imple  fncl  that  he  enriched  the 
museum  with  more  than  2000 
and  built  from  their  foundati 
Hall  of  Animals,  the  Gallery  of  the 
Muses,  the  Ciiculnr  Hall,  the  Hall  of 
the  Greek  Croats,  llie  Hall  of  the  Bigs, 


bsH-,  found  ii 
tha~  of  Caracdlla.  Tliis  noble 
;ment  haa  commanded  the  admi- 
iun  of  the  first  ceuliitors  of  modmi 
les.  Michael  Angela  declared  thai 
he  was  its  pupil,  and  was  indebted  to 

.  that  it  approached  nearer  to  tfai 
0  than  tbe  Apollo  Belvedere,  It 
rally  supposed  to  represent  Her- 
ri a  state  of  repose  after  labour- 


left  a 


r  tlie  bead,  but  V 
[    fonued   pari 


this  ides,  and  introduced  il 


and  e 


vrdl 


e   Grand   E 


1  other 


this  celebrated  monument  of  rtpob- 
lican  Itome.  It  is  of  the  coarse  pepe- 
rino  of  the  Alban  hills,  in  tbe  Dorla 
style,  urnamenled  with  a  frieze  of  rcKU 
and  triglyphs.  The  inscription  bews 
tbe  name  of  Luciua  Cornelius  Scipio 
Barbatus,  great  grandlalher  of  Sdpio 

Samnitca,whowBsconBulB.o.S97.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  aiidcnt  Lalio  io- 
scriptiuue  which  have  been  preserved 
to  us,  and  is  often  so  tocortectlj  given 
on  the  models,  that  the  following  cop; 
will  doubtless  be  acceptable! — cok- 


:'z±. 


Pupal SiaiftJ]    11.27 — rome.-^ Palaces;  the  Vatican.      467 

TVTBi .  tA%tivUA  .  Fvn .  coNsoL  .  CKN-  '  Roman  galley,  and  a  colossal  head  of 


80K  .  AIDlLtS  .  QVEI  .  FVET  .  APVD  .  VOS. 
TATRASIA  .  CISAVNA  .  SAMNIO  .  CKPIT  . 
SVBIOIT  .  OMNE  .   LOVCANA  .  OPSIDESQV  . 

ABDOVcrr.    When  the  sarcophagus  was 


Tngan. 

Cortile  di  Belvedere,  built  from  the 
designs  of  Bramante.     This  court  is 
an  octagonal  space,  surrounded  by  an 
first  opened  in  1781,  upwards  of  2000  !  open  portico,  with  four  small  cabinets 
years  after  the  death  of  Scipio  Bar-  ,  in  the  circumference,  which  contain 
batus,  the  skeleton  was  found  entire, '  some  of  the  most  celebrated  examples 


with  a  ring  upon  one  of  the  fingers. 
The  bones  were  carefully  collected  by 
the  Senator  Angelo  Quirini,  who  re- 
moved  them    to   Padua.      The  ring 


of  ancient  art.  The  portico  contains 
numerous  statues,  bas-reliefs,  sarco- 
phagi, and  baths,  which  it  will  be 
necessary  to  notice   as  we  pass  on. 


found  its  wdy  to  England,  in  the  alternately  with  the  cabinets.  Be- 
valuable  collection  of  the  Earl  of  ginning  on  the  right  hand,  the 
Beverley,  where  it  is  still  preserved.  !  following  are  the  most  interesting 
The  history  of  this  interesting  relic  is  objects : 

given  by  the  learned  antiquary  Du-  Portico,  Compartment  I.  —  28.  A 
tens,  in  his  '*  Rcoherches  sur  I'Usage  large  oval  sarcophagus,  with  bas- 
des  Voiltes.*'  He  had  left  England  in  '  relief  of  faunn  and  bacchantes,  found 
1768  on  his  travels  with  I-/ord  Alger-  j  in  1777  in  laying  the  foundations  for 
non  Percy,  and  was  in  Home  at  the  j  the  sacristy  of  St.  Peter's :  it  con- 
time  of  the  discovery.  He  says,  **  Le  '  tained  two  skeletons.  31.  Sarcopha^ 
squelette  ctoit  tres  entier.  II  avoit  gus  with  a  Greek  and  Latin  inscrip- 
au  doigt  unc  bague,  que  le  Pape  Pius  i  tion  to  Sextus  Varius  Marcellus,  father 
VI.  me  fit  Thonncur  de  me  donncr,  et '  of  the  Emperor  Heliogabalus.  29. 
que  j'ai  plac^e  dans  le  beau  recueil  100.  Two  fine  baths  wi^  lions*  heads, 
des  antiques  de  Lord  Beverley."  The  one  in  black,  the  other  in  green  ba- 
sepulchre  of  the  Scipio  family,  on  the  salt,  found  in  the  Baths  of  Cara- 
Appian,   is  noticed  at  length  in  the   calla.  ^ 

description  of  the  Tombs  (p.   363.).        First  Cabbiet.  —  The    Perseus  and") 
The  bust  of  pcpcrino  crowned  with   the    two    boxers    Creugas   and    Da- 
laurel,  above  the  sarcophagus,  is  sup-  |  moxenus,  by  Canova.  These  celebratecT  ^ 
posed  to  be  that  of  Ennius.     On  the ;  figures  were  brought  here  while  the 
wall  are  the  original  inscriptions  found  I  ancient   statues  were   at   Paris;   the 
in   the   recesses  of   the   tomb.       II.  .  Perseus  was  placed  on  the  pedestal  of 
Round  vestibule.  —  1-5.   Fragments   the  Apollo,  and  obtained  the  name  of 
of  statues :    those  which  are  clothed   the  Consolatrice.     On  the  restoration 
are  remarkable  for  the  fine  arrange-   of  the  Apollo  and  the  Laocoon,  the 
inent   of  the  drapery.     6.   Bas-relief  Perseus  and  the  boxers  were  ordered 
of  Pluto  and  Proserpine.     8.   On  the   to   remain  here,  in  opposition,  it  is 
balcony  an  antique  dial  with  twelve '  said,  to  the  wishes  of  Canova,  who 
sides,  each  containing  the  name  of  a  '  felt  that  they  would  challenge  corn- 
wind  in  Greek  and  Latin.     The  view   parison  when  standing  by  the  side  of 
from  this  balcony  is  so  beautiful  that   those  masterpieces  of  ancient  art.  35. 
it  gave  the  name  of  Belvedere  to  this   Minerva.     36.  Mercury, 
portion  of  the  palace.      III.   Chamber,      Portico,  Compartment  II. — 37.   A 
of  Meleager.  —  Statue    of    Meleager   sarcophagus  with  a  fine  bas-relief  of 
with   the   boar's   head   and   the   dog,  ^  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  found  at  Orta. 
found  in  the  Baths  of  Titus  in  a  per-   43.   Statue  of  a  Roman  matron,  sup- 
feet  state,  with  the  exception  of  the  |  posed  to  be  Saliustia  Barbia  Oibiana, 
left  hand,  which  is  supposed  to  have   wife  of  Alexander  Severus,  as  Venus 
held  a  spear.     On  the  walls  are  some  attended  by  Cupid.     49.  Large  sar- 
bas-reliefs   representing   ^neas    and   cophagus  of  th«  la^«t  vccL\fvi^^  ^V^ 
Dido,  the  apotbeosit  of  Homer,   a  bcA-TeUetiT^^^t^Ku^vci^  ^^Vmn.'^n^^^^ 


ROUTE  27. — ftoua. — Patacet;  ffie  W-ff&fli.  ' 


Ml*,   »ilb   ihe   contat   of 

_ibiUe<  uid    PvnUsilva,   inUretlmg 

btboiring  (hit  the  receivL-iI  rtyino' 

y  of  th*  won)  AmnnHi  must  hare 

M  of  oomparnlively  recent  date. 

t&muf  Oiii-it.  — The  Beltideiik 

Kimicdui,  eoiu'idered  by  Viiconii  to 

"   "tnnty,  fotrnd   nrar  S.  Marimo 

nti,  in  Ihu  ponlilicatc  of  PhuI 

The  loHi  of  the  riglit  arm  and 

ind  uriously  inlerfcrei  wiih  the 

ctry  of  the  figure,  ind  the  Toot 

«faieh  it  mis  IB  to  badly  toioreil 

duen  an  apppsruice  of  de- 

The    proiiortiom   of   this 


,  high  finish  is 
ooinDiaea  wjin  cic^nce  of  (bim  and 
with  nil  the  graceruinera  of  foulh. 
Damcnichino  made  it  his  constant 
itudy.  and  declared  that  he  was  in- 
dubleil  to  it  for  bis  knuwiudge  of  tlie 
beautiful.  Its  anatomy  li  pionounced 
by  Jolm  Bi^ll,  the  fim  crilia  on  this 
point,  to  be  faultla^s  in  every  rapect : 
bi:  dwells  wilh  eathuaia.nn  on  ila  just 
propDTtioBs,  llie  balance  and  living 
puJSliire  of  Uie  figure,  the  exquisite 
fonnsiiiin  of  the  li-f:B  and  ancle-s,  and 
iu  ejilire  fireedoin  from  insipid  flat- 
vns.  of  fi'alure  and  from  stmined 
■uatomy. — The  ATiii.nrE,  a  semi-co- 
lossal italue,  found  in  1639  in  the 
Vicolo  dells    Palme 


tiis  K*lural  History,  to  ha*B  so 
plenwd  Tiberiui,  thai  the  einpHOt 
(paused  it  lo  be  transported  frota  Iht 
Uallii  of  Agiippa  to  Lis  omi  palace. 
To  the  objection,  that  Pliny's  ia- 
scription  appliei  to  vorks  iu  broDie, 
and  not  to  works  in  marble,  Slgnor 
Caniiu  replies  that  it  may  be  a  rspe- 
[itiou  of  a  bronze  by  Lysippus,  whose 
well-known  tmaal,  tbst  he  represent- 
ed men  not  in  their  perfect  rorms,  but 
such  IS  the;  appi'ared,  is  conGiileieil 
very  applicable  to  this  figure.  If  Hfy 
hypothwis  be  correct,  the  statue  il 
the  first  work  urLynippus  which  ha* 
come  down  to  us,  and  is  additionaHy 
interesting  as  beint;  one  of  the  fev 
mentioned  by  Pliny.  Whatever  ba 
its  origin,  it  is  the  only  eiample  Vbiob 


M  of  911 


cleaning   hi> 


igil,    thougli 


e  the  Broi 


on  Etruiean  vases.  Tlie  present  Iti- 
tue  is  holding  the  strigil  with  hit 
lei)  hand,  anil  is  polishing  with  il 
his  right  arm,  which  he  holdi  ei- 
tended  for  the  purpose.  His  cOUD- 
tvnancc  is  ideal ;  his  head  ia  r^wr 
small,  his  neck  rather  thick,  and  Ul 
shoulders  show  vigour  and  force,  while 
his  let;'*  hardly  surpass  the  Daltml 
siiu.  lliis  apparent  incangruitj  ia 
explained  by  tlie  Roman  artists,  M 


broken,  u 


tbe  CapHol  Mus 

I,  has  recently  been  placed    i 
ibinct.      So  admirably  had    I 


'  of  the 


■ary  was  a  small  fragment  of  the  nnac, 
which  has  been  carefully  added  by 
Sigiior  Teneranl  It  is  of  Greek 
inarbie,  and  represents  a  wrestler,  ur 
athlete,  in  the  act  of  cleaning  his  arm 
with  a  "Strigil."    Signor  Canina.  the  | 

it  was  liiund,  and  the  Roman  artists 
generally,  regard  it  ns  a  work  of  the 
highest  art,  and  declare  It  to  be  the  pro- 
tlaetioa  of  Lyaippus  (a.  c.  325),  which  1 
I,  said  Ity  Pliny,  in  the  a4lli  booV  ot' 


sculpto, 

escot  ivot  only  a  wrestler  biit« 
;  his  strength  being  shown  Iw 
a  of  his  shoulders,   hia  smaU 


trlong.  The  high  65 
■  ■      ■  -   e  by  the  I 


is   by   no   m. 

foreign   sculptors  resident  in  Home, 

art,  and  ridicule  the  taste  whidi  bat 
deecrilHid  it  as  equal  to  the  Apollo 
Belvedere.  5i.  A  bas-relief  of  tbe 
battle  of  the  Amazons,  with  another 
rcpresenlation  of  Achilles  and  Pcnie. 
silea.      55.    An  liiac  festival  and  pro- 


Papal  States,']    n.  97'.— ROME.^  Palaces;  the  Vatican.       469 


Portico,  Compartment  III.  •^-62.'  A 
sarcophagus,  with  bas-reliefs  of  the 
Nereids  bearing  the  arms  of  Achilles ; 
another  with  reliefs  of  th«  four  sea- 
sons ;  69.  another  with  the  battle  of 
the  Amazons ;  a  fourth  with  baccha- 
nalian figures.  Two  fine  baths  of  red 
granite.  At  the  entrance  of  the  Hall 
of  Animals  are  two  shepherd's  dogs 
(64,  65.y 

Third    Cabinet,  —  Tlie    Laocoon, 
found   in   the  Vigna  de'  Fredis,   be- 
tween the  Sette  Sale  and  the  basilica 
of  S.  Maria  Maggiore,  in  1 506,  during 
the  pontificate  of  Julius  II.,  who  re- 
warded the  discoverer,  Felice  de*  Fre- 
dis,  by  bestowing  on  him  half  the 
revenue  derived  from  the  gabella  of 
the    Porta   San   Giovanni    (p.  415.).  j 
Some   idea   may   be   formed   of  the 
value  attached  to  its  discovery,  by  the 
fact  that  the  tolls  thus  appropriated 
were  entirely  the  property  of  the  ba- 
silica of  St.  John  Lateran,  and  that 
Leo  X.  compromised  the  matter  by 
granting  to  the  family  of  de'  Fredis  the 
lucrative  office  of  Apostolic  Secretary, 
on  condition  that  the  revenue  granted 
by  his  enthusiastic  predecessor  should 
be  restored  to  the  churcii.     Michael 
Angelo,   who  was  in    Home   at  the 
time   of  its  discovery,  called  it   the 
wonder  of  art ;  and  a  curious  letter, 
written   by   Cesare   Trivulzio  to  his 
brother  Pomponio,  July  1.  1506,  de- 
scribing the  excitement  produced  by 
the  event,  is  preserved  in  the  I-ettere 
Pittoriche.       After  a  great   deal    of 
controversy  there  is  no   longer  any 
doubt  that  the  Laocoon  is  the  group 
described  by  Pliny  in  the  following 
interesting  passage:  —  **  The  fame  of 
many  sculptors  is  less  diffused,  be- 
cause   the   number   employed    upon 
great  works  prevented  their  celebrity ; 
for  there  is  no  one  artist  to  receive 
the  honour  of  the  work,  and  where 
there  are  more  than  one  they  cannot 
all  obuin  an  equal  fame.      Of  this 
the   I^aocoon    is   an  example,  which 
stands  in  the  palace  of  the  Emperor 
Titus,  a  work  which   may  be  con- 
sidered superior  to  all  others  both  in 
painting  and  ttatuar/.     The  whole 


group,the  father,  the   boys,  and  the 
awful  folds  of  the  serpents,  were  formed 
out  of  a  single  block,  in  accordance 
with  a  vote  of  the  senate,  by  Agesande 
Polydorus,  and    Athenodorus,    Rho* 
dian  sculptors  of  the  highest  class.** 
— (Lib.  zxxvi.  c.  5.)     The  great  dif- 
ficulty in  this  passage  is  the  state- 
ment that  the  group  is  sculptured  out 
of  a  single  block  ;   Michael  Angelo  is 
said  to  have  denied  the  fact  on  its 
first  discovery,  and  subsequent  inves- 
tigation has  fully  confirmed  the  accu- 
racy of  his  judgment.    Three  separate 
pieces  can  be  clearly  made  out :  the 
first  is  the  son  on  the  left  hand,  the 
second  is  the  upper  part  of  Laocoon 
himself  down  to  the  knees,  and  the 
rest  of  the  group  is  the  third.     Win- 
ckelmann  no  doubt  suggested  the  true 
mode  of  reconciling  these  facts  with 
the  statement  of  Pliny,  by  adverting 
to  the  probability  that  the  joinings 
were  imperceptible  in  his  time ;  indeed 
it  is  said  to  have  required  the  prac- 
tised  eye  of  a  sculptor  to  discover 
them  in  the  time  of  Michael  Angelo. 
llie  right  arm  of  the  father,  and  those 
of  the    two   sons,    are    restorations. 
In  the  opinion  of  Canova  the  right 
arm  of  Laocoon  is  not  in  its  original 
position,  as  a  projection  on  the  head 
of  the  figure  shows  that  the  hand,  or 
some  other  part  of  the  composition, 
rested  on  the  head.     At  present  the 
angles  formed  by  the  group  are  dis- 
agreeable to  the  eye,  and  detract  from 
the  effect  of  its  intense  action.      An- 
other knob  on  the  serpent  shows  that 
the  son  on  the  left  had  his  hand  in  a 
similar  position.     Vasari  tells  us  that 
Baccio  Bandinelli  made  an  arm  for 
the  Laocoon  in  wax  in  1525,  which 
he  followed  in  his  copy,  now  in  the 
gallery   of  the   Palazzo    Vecchio    at 
Florence.      This   restoration,    which 
was  not  adopted,  seems  to  have  sug- 
gested the  present  form,  for  the  group 
is  represented   as  we  now  see  it   in 
Marliani's  engraving,    published    in 
1544.     Giovanangelo  Montorsoli  be- 
gan a  restoration  of  the  arm  in  marble 
by   order  of   Clement    VII ,  about 
1 532.     He  miA«  \V XmtA  \)wdL^  %x^  v 


HT9        «otrre27. — bowk. —  Paheei;  ^Valiean. 

K  to  NHM  oirr  the  licad  uf  llie  ligute;        Porliai,    Cimpartitml   IV.  —  (79.) 

Ikit  it  doa  not  B)i|<ent  tn  III vc  been    Alto-rcliwo,    represeutins    Hercuin 

K^onplaMil,  u  WinckElmann  mentions   and  Tcluphus,  Bucehuiimd  thcSatfti 

K<*  arm  of  thii  kind  which  iris  Ijiing    (60.)    *    sarcophagus,    with    cupidi 

BMar  llic  tttttae  in  liii  lime  iu  sii  uii-   carrying  arnu;  anolher,  with  tritom 

rCiinluNl  Mill*.       I'he  common   sioiy,    and  utrciits ;  (HI.)  ■  bas-tclicf 

that  Mictwel  AajK^o  be){iin  Ihc  re-   wall,  rtprcMmting   Augustus   going 

Moraliun  of  tliu  Siiiiie.  and  gsie  u|)    lo  ucrillcci    (B8.)   anulLer, 

Ihc  Mak  in  despair,  "bemute  lieTound   cvnting    Rome   accnmpanjing 

h*  muld  do  natliiiii;  norlliy  of  ao' '    ' 

admirabli  ■  piece,'  cannot,  we  liclievc, 

')ka  trand  further  i1iiin''Spen»'>  Anrc- 

*"  to,"  mid  probably   had  its  origin 

the  attempt  uf  SlontomoJi,  above 

mtioned;    tlie    similarity    of    tlie 

Chiutian  nune^  of  the  two  cculpton 

ma;  iiaid  aided,  if  it  did  not  cause 

Winekeimann  to  be  Ilic  work  at  Ber-  gard  il  at  the  point  trom  which  the 
BUii.  The  armt  of  the  children  were  ,  Vatican  muaeum  bad  its  origio.  It 
added  b;  Aginlino  Coroscchlni  or  is  supposed  lo  hare  litoad  in  thebolha 
Httflia,  «lto  merely  rullowed  Bandi-  of  one  of  the  imperial  villas  at  Aa- 
nelli'*  d«ign  for  the  fli^  restointion.  ,  liuiti,  which  was  a  favourite  retreat 
Scbolart  haveoftcn  deiired  to  connect  of  many  of  the  early  emperors,  and 
Bus  group  wilh  the  fine  description  the  blrlhplnce  oF  Caligula  and  Stra, 
'  tba  bte  of  Laocoon  in  the  cecoud  Some  doubt  hu  been  expre»ed  al  to 
lotid;  but  the  pasiAfCc  will  not  beer  tliu  character  in  which  Apollo  isr». 
ipplieation,  and  affords  not  the  prencnled.  Visconti  considered  ittiiB 
evidcnee  that  it  was  stjggesled ,  statue  described  by  Fausanias,  aod 
by  the  sculpture.  'Itiere  can  be  no .  dedicated  to  the  god  in  liii  melHeal 
doubt,  however,  of  the  inspiration  of  capacity  afler  the  great  plague  ot 
the  Ebllowing  passage  from  "Childej  Athens.       Winekeimann,    whose   en. 


lorioiis  emperor ; 

and 

two 

argebatbs 

offiranite. 

J-^rM  Cabhitl. 

-T 

eA 

^>t«.  Bn. 

the  ICih  century 

Port 

a  d-AflU), 

(he  ancient    Ami 

It 

was   pui^ 

chased  by  Julius 

11, 

whe 

n  C-rdi»l 

della  Roverc,  and 

was 

one 

of  the  Em 

Harold," 


Il  addill 


English  traveller ;  - 


h  has  invested  the 
I  fijr  ll 


iU)ruiroil(|!ntrjlnttp»in  — 
ImDiurvra  patience  biendtng: 


B  bas-reliefs  in  this  cbsmlH 
It  f75.)  the  triumph  of  Ba 
the  Indians;  (TS.)  a  ba 
lian  proceasion.  The  sWIu 
«  are  Poljhymoia,  a 
•mpb  B-ilh  a  shell,  found  nea 
-  ■a  of  Comtaatme. 


i.dered   c 

I  opinion  thai 

I  pent  Python.  The  left  hand  and 
right  fore-arm  have  been   badly  re. 

j  stored  by    -MontorsolL     Both   snclea 

;  and  the  ri^t  leg  were  broken  vrben 
(  it  was  discorered  i  llie  original  frag- 
,  menis  were  fortunately  Jiot  lost,  hut 
1 1  they  have  been  joined  in  so  oarelesa  a 

lligurein  thecyeofariculptororana. 
'  tomitt  It  is  now  generally  admitted 
that  the  atalue  is  of  Carrara  (Luna) 
■  maible;  the  opinion  of  Visconti  thai 
:  the  marble  is  Greek,  though  neither 
from  Pentelicua  nor  Paroa,  has  found 
few  supporters.  CanovR  not  only 
reacted  this  idea,  but  considered  that 


\\>. 


Papal StaiesJ]    r.  27. — Rome. — Palaces;  t?ie  Vatican.      471 


style  in  which  a  bronze  statue  dififers 
from  one  in  marble,  are  distinctly 
traceable,   more   particularly  in   the 


animals,  of  coarse,  will  be  recognised 
at  once,  without  the  necessity  of  a 
particular  description.     The  follow* 


drapery.  The  first  sculptors  of  our  ,  ing  are  the  most  remarkable  objects, 
time  coincide  in  the  opinion  of  Ca- 1  Left  branch.  —  In  the  niche,  a  colossal 
nova ;  some  have  even  fixed  the  age  statue,  supposed  to  be  Tiberius.  A 
of  the  statue,  and  referred  it  to  the '  group  of  a  centaur  and  a  nereid. 
time  of  Nero.  The  Italian  writers  Hercules  leading  away  Cerberus ;  a 
describe  it  as  the  work  of  Agasias  of  camel's  head;  a  crocodile;  a  spliynx, 
£phesus,  the  sculptor  whose  name  in  flowered  alabaster.  1 94.  A  sow  and 
occurs  on  the  Fighting  Gladiator  in  !  pigs,  supposed  to  allude  tottie  history 
the  Louvre,  which  was  also  found  at  of  Alba  Longa ;  the  head  of  an  ass 
Antium;  but  there  is  no  evidence  to  ;  crowned  with  ivy.  213.  A  group  of 
support  the  conjecture,  or  to  give  it  pro- i  Hercules  slaying  Geryon,  and  carry- 
bability.  Lord  Byron  has  thrown  the  |  ing  off  his  oxen;  a  lion  tearing  a 
influence  of  his  genius  over  this  statue  horse.  Bight  branch, — 1 1 4.  The  beau- 
in  one  of  his  finest  descriptions :  —  tiful   greyhounds  making  love ;   the 

"  Or  view  the  Lord  of  the  unerring  bow.        |  ceJ^brated  group  of  Mithras  stabbing 
TheGodoriife,  and  poesy,  and  light—         the  bull,  with  the  dog,   the  serpent, 

llie  Sun  in  human  limbs  arra^'d,  and  brow   and   the  eagle,  the  mystical   types  of 

All  radiant  Trom  hi«  triumph  in  the  fight :   Li^    -n/r: ♦!,--♦:- —.!,:«        ti         *  — 

The  shaft  hath  just  been  shot  -  the  arrow   ^e    Mithratic    worship.       The    stag 

"bright  i  in   flowered    alabaster ;    the  lion    in 

With  an  immortal's  vengeance;  In  his  eye  1  yellowy    breccia,   with    the    teeth  and 
And  nostril  beautiful  disdain,  and  might      !  ^  .      .VL.         .  .  ,  rrn. 

And  majesty  flash  their  ftiU  lightnings  by,     tongue    ot    different    marble.       ITie 
Develo|>ing  in  that  one  glance  the  Dctty. 

But  in  his  delicate  form  —  a  dream  of  Love, 


large  lion    in   grey  marble  (bigio). 
The  lion  with  a  ball  under  his  paw. 

****^r^st  ""^"^  "'"''"^  "^"**'  ""^"^  i  Europa  and  the  bull.  Hercules  and 
Long'd  for  a  deathless  lover  from  above,  i  the  Nema?an  lion.  137.  Group  of 
And  maiiden'd  inthat  vision— are  expressed  1  Diomede  and  his  horses  slain  by  Her- 

cules.      Equestrian   statue  of  Com- 
inodus  throwing  a  javelin. 


All  that  ideal  beauty  ever  bless'd 
The  mind  with  in  its  most  unearthly  mood, 
[    When    each    conception  was  u  heavenly 
guest  — 

A  ray  of  immortality — and  stood 
Starlike,  around,  until  they  gaiher'd  to  a 
god  I" 

The  bas-reliefs  in  this  cabinet  repre- 
sent a  hunt,  and  I'asiphae  with  the 
bull.  Tlie  statues  in  the  niches  are  a 
Minerva  and  a  Venus  Victrix, 

PorticOf  Compartment  V.  —  A  sar- 
cophagus with  a  bas-relief  of  Gany- 
mede ;  another  with  Bacchus  between 
a  faun  and  a  bacchante ;  a  bath  of 
green  basalt,  found  in  the  Baths  of 
Caracal  la. 

JIail  of  AnimaUt  divided  by  the  ves- 
tibule into  two  parts,  and  paved 
chiefly  with  mosaics  found  at  Pales- 
trina.  I'he  sculptures  of  animals  in 
this  hall  constitute  the  finest  collec- 
tion ever  formed,  and  fully  confirm 
the  statement  of  Pliny  respecting  the 
excellence  of  Grecian  sculptors  in 
their  representations  of  animals.  It  has 
been  called  a  roeoagerie  of  art.   The 


GaUery  of  Statues,  —  On  the  right 
hand  (248.)  an  armed  statue  of  Clo- 
dius  Albinus.  250.  llie  celebrated 
half-figure,  called  the  Genius  op  the 
Vatican,  in  Parian  marble,  supposed 
to  be  by  Praxiteles ;  it  was  once  winged. 
255.  A  sitting  statue  of  Paris  holding 
the  apple.  ^56,  Hercules.  259.  Mi- 
nerva with  the  olive  branch.  262.  Ca^ 
ligula.  A  muse.  264.  llie  Apollo 
Sauroctonos  or  Praxiteles  found  in 
the  Villa  Spada;  there  is  a  celebrated 
repetition  of  it  in  bronze  in  the  Villa 
Albani.  265.  The  Amazon,  one  of 
the  finest  statues  in  this  collection,  but 
on  the  whole  inferior  to  the  Amazon 
in  the  Capitol.  270.  A  sitting  female 
figure  as  Urania,  found  in  the  villa  of 
Cassius  at  Tivoli.  271.  A  sitting 
figure  of  the  celebrated  comic  poet 
Posidippus,  a  Greek  statue  of  the 
time  of  Alexander,  found  near  the 
church   of    S.  \iOt«caa  vyw  ^vea  ^ 


HoQii7f.—  riOTit.~—Pilla)>el  I  diiVhltiaie. 


39T. 
a  and  her  liound.  Tlic  ucoml 
itiun  of  A\t  pHiin  of  Preiiteles 
k'  16J.J.  placed  immediately  oppo- 
'■  the  Geniui  of  llie  Vatican.  A 
draped  flgunt  (Pudioilu?), 
tand  bithe  Villa  Mattei.  414.  Tlie 
■elabratcd  rocumbent  Btalue  of  Aai- 
ADva  iLiErinB  focmerly  called  Cleo- 
patra,   Kilelf    because    the     braceUt 

Nothing  CHO  Eur|<au  ihe  giacefulnen 
at  this  figure;  (lie  ponitiiin  is  that  of 
prorouud  ilecp ;  ihcbeoding  limbs  are 
eniuiiilely  (urmrd,  jet  manngHl  witli 
a  modeity  of  uptewion  which  giv« 
"IB  figure  a  higher  chorHctcr  Ilian  ice 
'A  in  aay  other  at«luc  tif  this  cIku. 
B  drapery  ii  raanaged  wllb  con- 

l^lbe  mott  interestinfC  draped  atatuen 
'  .  is  oelehrated  by 
tlie  name  of  (he 


villa   a 


Tivi 


Near  Ihc  entcBDCD  of  llie  Hall  of 
Animali  is  Ihc  figure  uf  a  bacchante. 
Han  of  B«iU.  1st  Chsmbec.  — 
^.  Alexander  Seicrus.  274.  Julius 
276.  Augustus.  Seo.  Mar. 
laAgrippa.  989.  Mareu>  Aureliua. 
"k  Menelaos.  389.  Caloand  Por- 
.(?),Bmerc  name  supported  by  no 
ifhority.  £nd  Chamber. — S8S.  Lu- 
i«  Verua.  299.  Sempis,  in  black 
3D4.  Carocalla.      306.    Au. 


L  308. 


.  nApolb 
It  of  Titus,     na'.  nnnnojs.      am. 
'  "  3rd  Chamber.  — 325.  Co- 

:ue  of  Jupiter  seated,  botd- 
tbgthe  lightning;  on  the  pedestal  a 
tua.n.'Ueforaienusanda^aK'u.    Of 


arc  several  slaliies ;  the  second  tboDI 

Venua  of  Praiitetea  (p,4T't.). 

Cabintl  of  tie  ftiatt,  remarkaUa 
chiefly  Gh-  the  fine  mosaic  pavenmil 
found  in  Hadrian's  lilla.  433.  A 
aalyr  in  roiH>  onlico,  from  the  i 
■pot.  438.  Tbeapotheo^iaof  HadKUi 
in  Greek  marble.  444.  Friese,  widi 
Ihc  laboun  of  Hercules,  io  baa-rdieC 
43^.  A  square  vessel  in  rosso  an' 
4.S9.  A  Sella  balncaria  of  the  i 
maierial,  formerly  in  the  literan  Pa- 
lace. In  the  niches,  besidea 
satyr  already  inenlioned,  are  sta 
of  Paris,  Minerva,  Ganymede,  Adoiuit 
aad  Vaius  coming  out  of  the  balb. 

Hixtlofthi  JIfHHi,  adorned  vith  ni* 
teen  Corinthian  columns  found  in 
Hadrian's  villa.  Ke:irly  all  the  at 
luea  and  busts  vere  found  together  in 
thevillaofCassiusutTivoli.  Themo- 
saig  |iavement  contains  some  interest- 
ing &apments.  The  tiger  was  found 
in  the  March  of  Ancona,  the  bead  of 
Mcdu«  near  the  arch  of  GaliAtla, 
and  the  theatrical  ligures  near  iheilte 
nfancient  Loriuni.      The  Hermes  et 


iuseribvd  in  Greek  chai 
are  highly  inlervsiina  , 
authentic  likenesses  whic 
preserved    \ 


e  their 


arkahle  i 


fine 


Epicurus.      499.  Md- 
pomene.  BVa.  Tlialia.   909.  MttAxaie^ 
very  rare     J04.  Urania.     505.   Ite^ 
moslhenes.     306.    Clio.     307.    AnH- 
sthenes.    .508.  Pnlyhyronia.    509.  1 
trodorus.  510.  Aleibiades.  5II.£ratV. 
51S.     Epimenidea.        514.    Calliopfc 
515.  Bocrates,  very  rare.    516.  Apt^lo 
Cithartedus.  517.  ThcmisloeleB.  SIS. 
Terpsichore.     519.  Zeno.     53a  E 
terpe.     593.    Aspaiio,  unique.      Si 
Pericles,   very    fine  and  full    of  e 
pression.     527.  Piltacu^.    523.  Solon. 
SS9,  Bias.   530.  Lycurgus.  531.  Peri- 

ClrcBlar  Ball,   built  bj  Fiua  VI., 
from    the   designs   of  Miehaelangdo 


Papal  SMesr^   r.  27. —  tlome.-^ Palaces;  the  Vatican.      473 


It  stands  on  the  celebrated  mosaic 
pavement  found  at  Otricoli  in  1780, 
representing  the  head  of  Medusa  and 
the  battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapi- 
thae.  On  each  side  of  the  entrance  are 
two  large  female  heads,  found  in  Ha- 
drian's villa,  representing  Tragedy  and 
Comedy.  In  the  circumference  are 
statues  and  colossal  busts  in  the  fol- 
lowing order,  beginning  on  the  right 
hand: — 539-  Jupiter,  found  at  Otri- 
coli. 541.  Faustina,  wife  of  Anto- 
ninus Pius,  from  Hadrian's  villa.  543. 
Hadrian,  found  in  his  mausoleum,  a 
work  of  the  very  finest  sculpture, 
perfectly  unbroken,  interesting  as  a 
work  of  art  and  as  a  grand  intellectual 
head.  545,  Antinous,  from  Hadrian's 
villa.  547.  Ocean.  549.  Serapis.  551. 
Claudius  with  a  civic  crown.  Julia 
Pia.  553.  Plotina.  556.  Helvius 
Pertinax.  540.  Hercules  carrying  the 
young  Ajax.  542.  Augustus  in  sa- 
crificial robes.  544.  Ceres.  546.  An- 
toninus Pius.  548.  Ncrva.  550.  Juno, 
from  the  Barberini  Palace.  552. 
Juno  Sospita,  with  the  goatskin, 
shield,  and  sandals.  555,  Bacchus 
and  a  satyr,  with  a  tiger. 

Hall  of  the  Greek  CrosSy  built  from 
the  designs  of  Simonetti,  a  noble  hall, 
with  one  of  the  finest  doorways  of 
modern  times,  ornamented  by  two 
colossal  statues  in  the  Egyptian  style 
in  red  granite,  found  in  Hadrian's 
villa ;  they  serve  as  Caryatides  to  the 
massive  entablature.  The  pavement 
is  composed  of  ancient  mosaics,  with 
arabesques  and  a  head  of  Minerva, 
found  among  the  ruins  of  Cicero's  villa 
at  Tusculum.  The  principal  objects 
in  this  hall  are  the  two  immense 
sarcophagi  of  porphyry,  the  largest 
known,  and  probably  the  largest  ever 
constructed  in  that  material.  One 
of  these  (566.)  is  the  Sarcophagus 
OK  St.  Constantia,  the  daughter 
of  Constantine,  found  in  the  tomb 
erected  to  her  by  the  emperor  near 
the  church  of  S.  Agnese  (p.  411.)  It 
is  ornamented  with  has. reliefs  repre- 
senting a  vintage,  a  christian  as  well 
a%  a  bacchanalian  symbol.  Con&tan- 
tia  died  a,  d,  354,  and  although  thQ  , 


style  of  sculpture  indicates  that  de- 
cline of  art  which  is  evident  in  all  the 
works  executed  in  the  time  of  Con- 
stantine,  many    antiquaries  are   dis* 
posed  to  consider  it  much  older  than 
the   4th  century.     Paul  II.   shortly 
before  bis  death  had  begun  to  remove 
it  from  the  tomb  to  serve  as  his  own 
monument   in  the  Lateran.     Sixtus 
IV.,  his  successor,  restored  it  to  its 
original  position,  but  it  was  ultimately 
brought  to  the  Vatican  by  Pius  VI, 
as  a  companion  to  the  Sakcophagus 
OF  THE  Empress  Helena,  589.    This 
interesting  sarcophagus  exhibits  a  bet- 
ter style  of  art  than  that  of  St.  Con- 
stantia;  it  is  covered  with  high-re- 
liefs representing  a  battle,  with  the 
capture  of  prisoners  and  portraits  of 
Constantine  and    his    mother  ;    the 
cover  is  ornamented  with  figures   of 
Victory  and  festoons.     It  was  found 
in  the  tomb  of  our  countrywoman  St. 
Helena,  now  called  the  Torre  Pignat- 
tara,  beyond  the  Porta  Maggiore,  and 
was   removed    by  Anastatius  IV.  to 
the  Lateran,  whence  it  was  brought 
to  this  museum  by  Pius  VI.     The 
statues  in  this  hall  were  chiefly  found 
at  Otricoli :  the  most  remarkable  are 
the  sitting  figure  of  a  Muse  holding  a 
book  ;  Erato  with  the  lyre,  a  female 
statue    veiled ;    and   a   youth    veiled 
holding  a  patera.     Behind  the  sarco- 
phagus of  St.  Helena  is  a  curious  mo- 
nument, found  in  the  ruins  of  a  villa  near 
Tivoli,  bearing  the  name  of  Syphax 
king  of  Numidia,  who  was  brought 
to    Rome   by    Scipio    African  us    to 
grace  his  triumph.      Although  there 
is  no  doubt  of  its  antiquity,  it  is  dif- 
ficult not  to  regard  it  as  apocryphal. 
Livy  refers  to  the  statement  of  Poly- 
bius,  that  Syphax  was  led  in  triumph, 
and  contends  that  he  died  previous  to 
that  event  at  Tibur ;  at  the  same  time 
admitting  that  Polyhiusis  an  authority 
by  no  means  to  be  slighted.   It  is  clear 
from  this  that  the  circumstances  at- 
tending the    death  of  Syphax   were 
doubtful  in  the  time  of  Livy,  and  it 
would  be  useless  to  attempt  to  recon- 
cile them  with  this  inscription.    It  is, 
however,  ^oiVYv^  ol  t^toaxV  ^^\v>^ 


^^SmIL 


Tibi 


♦T4        noBTS  ST. — iMJiiK. — Pntoetg;  ih»Va^eem. 

dslli  i«  plaecid  by  that  bislorian  at :  in    CiHk   tnnrblc,    fram    Uie 

Tibiit.  ■K\\m  th»  Tnanumenl  wsa  itis-  I  tininoi  PaUce  al  Venice.  611.  Apolli), 
'pd  ill  U>*  15ih  century.  The  j  vUb  hi>  lyre.  G15.  A  Discnbo1us> 
iption  ii  rttnsrknble  Taritiabbre- '  fuuiid  by  our  couDlryman,  IlaniillOD, 
Hii;  the  principal  fac It  it  relates  the  painter,  anwTig  hi 
the  death  of  Syphai  in  captivity  at  I  Appian.     61S.  Suiui 

rotty-eighlh  year,  and  Icalledihe  Phocion,  618.  A  repelUtoa 
we  ereeiiiio  oF  the  monument  by  P.  I  of  thi  Ducoxolus  or  Mraow,  whou 
C.  Scipio.  An  eiact  copy  will  be  name  it  bean;  found  near  the  l^ 
fuuoA  in  Dr.  Burton's  Antiquities  pbies  of  Morius.  on  Ihe  Eaquiline,  in 
with  the  reading  clevi^rly  moJemited. '  1781.  Pari  of  the  right  leg  is  teatoced. 
At  the  foot  of  the  utain  leading  to  the  The  Ktrigil,  or  uraper  uied  in  11m 
hall  of  Ihe  Biga  is  a  very  inlereating  balh^  is  introduced  on  tbe  Moek 
rtalue, — a  repetition  of  tbe  Vehuh  or  which  supporla  the  figure,  "" 
PuttTKLKi,  ID  Greeii  marble.  That  A  charioleur  of  the  Circui. 
tliis  is  really  the  original  design  of  pbilompher  holding  a  scrol 
thai  eelebcated  sMtue  is  proved  by  body  is  of  Greek,  the  head  of 
two  eoin*  of  Cnidoi,  having  Cnidos  marble. 
on  one  aide  and  Venus  on  llie  other,  |  Mma  Grtgoriano  (to  be  seen  only 
in  the  exact  position  of  this  figure,  by  perioission  about  10  a.m.),  one  of 
Notbing  can  be  more  inurealing  than  ^  the  most  intemting  departments  of 
to  be  thus  in  possession  of  the  de-  the  museum,  created  entirely  by  flie 
■ign  of  ea  great  a  work  of  ancient  late  pope,  whoiie  memory  will  ever  be 
art.  The  italue  wm  covered  with  honoured  by  the  student  of  EtruBnn 
bmnae  drapery  by  one  of  the  popes,  Budc|uitieE,  for  tbe  leal  and  libera^ 
rrom  a  bslidious  feeling  of  modesty.  I  witli  which  be  preserved  these  valuable 
At  the  bottom  of  thettainare  recuro-  objects  of  Eliuican  art  among  tin 
bmt  alatucB  of  river  gods:  one,  in  | Bccessible  treasures  of  the  VatialB. 
white  marble  (600.)issupposedlore-  It  is  impossible  tiat  to  regard  nth 
present  the  Tigris  ;  the  utber.  in  grey  admiration  the  taste  exhibited  ia  ttai 
aiarble,  ii  calleJ  the  Nile.  The  re-  '  formation  of  this  museum,  in  tbe  ceil> 
storation*  of  Ihe  head,  right  arin,  and  tre  of  a  dlsttlcl  which  deriied  itaiH' 
left  hand  of  the  Tigris,  are  attributed  cient  arts  and  civlliEalion  IVom  thi 
to  Michael  Aogelo.  I  Etruscans.      Its  collectiuns  enable  ui 

Hall  of  Ihe  Biga,  a  circular  eham-  to  trace  the  influence  eieroified  hj 
bt»,  no  ^led  from  tlie  ancient  while  ,  that  wonderful  people  on  the  «rlj 
marble  chariot  dF  two  wheels  which  U  I  deielopment  of  Rome,  and  to 
preserved  there.  It  has  two  horses  upon  one  spot  the  monuments 
joked  to  it,  and  seldom  (ails  to  re- [serve  as  connecting  links  betwi 
c«ve  the  admiration  of  travellers;  mythologies  of  Egypt,  Greece,  and 
but  unfortunately,  it  derives  nearly  .  Italy.  Many  of  these  objects  would 
all  its  beauty  from  the  art  of  tbe ;  have  been  disperaed,  pcrhaj  ' 
iBstorers.  The  seat  of  the  car,  and  '  vcrably  lost,  if  the  public 
the  body  of  one  of  the  horses,  are  the  [  Gregory  XVI.  had  not  sccu 
only  parte  which  are  ancient;  the  for  tbe  Vatican.  Tliat  amiable  pon- 
wheels,  the  second  hor!«,  and  all  the  '  tiff  is  the  more  entitled  li 
M  remaining  portions,  are  modern  addi-   tude   when   we  consider 

1^^  tions.  In  the  niches  and  eircumCe-  |  means  at  his  command ;  and  we  ba^ 
^^Lrenceof  the  room  are  the  following  licve  that  we  are  correct  in  stating 
^^HatHtueB  :>~GOS.  Sardanapalus,  with  that  his  private  income  was  alpiost 
^^Uie  name  engraved  on  the  mantle,  entirely  devoted  to  this  objeot.  Tli4 
^^blO.  Bacchus.  61 1.  Aloibiades,  with  j  collection  bears  abundant  evidence  of 
^■gw/bot  reHing  on  bis  helmet.  61S.  the  enthusiasin  with  which  tbe  p< 
^^KBolossal  statue  of  a  priesteai  veiled.  \p>u»ie&  V»   ^i-«»mV£   ^.^.^d^ ;    i 


Papal  States.li    r.  27.  —  ROM e. —  Palaces  ;  the  Vatican.      475 


it  must  be  a  subject  for  congratu- 
lation that  bis  idea  of  collecting  into 
one  museum  all  the  Etruscan  anti- 
quities discovered  in  his  dominions, 
has  been  thus  far  realised.     The  ob- 
jects have  been  arranged  in  a  series  of 
eleven  chambers,  under  the  direction 
of  Cav.  Fabris,    assisted   by    Signor 
GenarellL     The  first  rooms  contain  a 
collection  of  terra-cotta  monuments, 
sarcophagi   with   recumbent  figures, 
and  other  remains,  which  it  would 
require  a  volume  to  particularise  in 
detail.      Our  limits,  therefore,   will 
only  allow  us  to  point  out  the  most 
remarkable  objects  in  each  chamber, 
referring   the    traveller   to    Dennis's 
**  Cities  and  Cemeteries  of  Etruria  '* 
for   a  more  minute  description.     J. 
— Firtt  Chamhery  or  Vestibule,    In  the 
walls  of  this  apartment  are  imbedded 
numerous   portrait   heads,    found   in 
diflferent   Etruscan  sites.     A   square 
cinerary  urn  aflfords  a  curious  example 
of  the  handle  of  the  lid  being  made  a 
portrait  of  the  person  whose  ashes  it 
no  doubt  contained.     The  three  re- 
cumbent and  richly  decorated  figures 
in  terra-cotta  formed  the  lids  of  sarco- 
phagi found  at  Toscanella.     The  two 
horses*  heads  in  nenfro  were   found 
over  the  entrance  to  a  tomb  at  Vulci. 
II. —  Second  Chamber.     This  chamber 
eontains  an  extensive  scries  of  urns  in 
terra-cotta,   and     13    alabaster    urns 
from  Volterra,  with  recumbent  figures 
on  their  lids,  and  decorated  in  front 
with  the  popular  mythological  sculp- 
tures which  we   have  already  men- 
tioned as  characteristic  of  the  Volterra 
urns  ( page  1 97. ).    Ill Third  Cham- 
ber, The  most  remarkable  objects  in* 
this  room  are  the  interesting  series  of 
hut  urns,  still  containing  the  ashes  of 
the  dead,  and  formerly  supposed  to  be 
inscribed     with      Oscan     characters. 
They  were  found  .SO  years  back  un- 
der a  supposed  bed  of  lava  near  Al- 
bano  (see  page  570.),  and  are  consi- 
dered  to  represent  the  huts  inhabited 
by  the    Latin   tribe   to  which    they 
belonged.      Independently    of   their 
high  antiquity,  they   are   extremely 
curious  as  jJJustnitfoas  of  a  style  dif- 


fering from  all  other  funeral  monu- 
ments which  have  come  down  to  us. 
Among  the  other  objects  of  interest  in 
the  chamber  may  be  specified  a  slab 
from  Todi,  with  bilingual  inscriptions 
on  both  sides  in  Latin  and  Umbrian, 
a  head  of  Medusa,  and  the  large  sar- 
cophagus of  nenfro  standing  in  the 
centre  of  the  room.     This  was  found 
at  Tarquinii  in  1834 ;  on  the  lid  is  a 
male  figure  holding  a  scroll,  and  the 
four  sides  are  ornamented  with  reliefs 
illustrating  the  history  of  Agamemnon' 
and   Clytemnestra,  and   the  story  of 
Eteocles  and  Poly  nices.   I V. — Fourth 
Chamber.  In  the  centie  of  this  room 
is  a  statue  of  Mercury  in  terra-cotta, 
found  at  Tivoli,  so  elegantly  propor- 
tioned, that  it  has  been  supposed  to 
be  of  Roman  workmanship.     Among 
the  other   objects   are   a   terra-cotta 
urn,   found    at    Toscanella  in    1834, 
bearing   the   recumbent   figure  of  a 
youth  with  a  wound  in  his  thigh  and 
a  dog  at  his  feet ;  fragments  of  three 
female  statues  found  at  Vulci ;  several 
small  urns  of  terra-cotta,  an  extensive 
collection  of   votive  offerings,   small 
portrait  busts  and  profiles,  with  orna- 
mented tiles,  &c.  V. — Fijih  Chamber, 
This  and   the  three   next   chambers 
contain  the  Vases  and  Tazze,  which 
present  us  with  a  complete  field  of 
study ;    days   and   weeks    might    be 
spent  in  the  mere  examination  of  the 
subjects  represented.     The  collection 
contains  examples  of  all  the  known 
varieties  of  Etruscan   workmanship, 
the  elegant  forms  of  Magna  Graecia 
and   Campania  contrasting  with  the 
peculiar  outlines  of  those  which  be- 
long   more    especially    to     Etruria. 
Here  are  collected  the  light  yellow 
vases,    with     particoloured     griffins 
sphynxes,  and  mythological  animals, 
in  which  we  trace  Etruscan  art  to  its 
Egyptian  origin.    In  another  part  we 
see  the  pure  red  vases  with  black  fi- 
gures,    marking    the     period    when 
Etruscan    workmanship    was    inde- 
pendent  of   Egyptian  influence:    in 
another  we  find  examples  in  which  the 
manufacture  attained  its  highest  per- 
fectiou,  «A  Avown  m  >^^  \^v^  'hvr^ 


WB  BODTB  2T.- 


-  Patacei ,-  (ffe  fftffiffn. 


fSroW 


skill   of 


•llh  rrd  A(^r».  •hero  11 
the  dciiigner  bat  tmlltnl  iiii-  mutt 
baalirul  fin-mi,  and  combinid  tht-m 
with  ■  glacc  uid  powei  of  eipmsion 
MOUUiDnblc  in  the  earticr  muiubi;- 
tun.  ITie  block  vases  of  VciKena 
-'-'  ■  ■  :k  rtlieb.  uid  the  red  »«>  of 
rilh  red  tslicCi,  mBy  aluo  be 
"*       It  ii  aliaoit  unneressaiy 


p  nj  that  ainidat  iui:l 

I    ireuurci,  it  iiiji  '' 

•cribc  the  peeuli 


»ible  I 


obJKt, 

DT  creD  to  point  out  all  iibich  arc 
vorthy  of  altcntian.  We  can  odIj 
alat«  (hat  the  preaenl  chamber  con- 
bini  28  piunt«]  vaiea,  and  an  in- 
tomling  eollectian  of  articles  in  eO' 
laurtd  glais.      One  of  the  flncat  viues 

with  iMtrlieoloureJ  figurei  on  a  pale 
ground,  in  the  purest  ttyle  of  Oreeli 
•rt,  representing  Mercury  presenting 
the  infant  Bacchus  to  Silenus.  VI. 
,  — SLrlh  Ouuiiber,  containing  39  vases, 

»or  which  the  five  moit  important  are 
placed  on  pcdesula  in  the  centre  of 
Mb  room.  Three  of  these  were  found 
M  Vulci,  and  two  at  CervetrL  Of 
tb«  Vulei  tases,  one  represents  Apollo 
■Ucuded  h/  til  Muses  1  another,  of 
'  Breat  interest  and  beauty,  represents, 

on  one  side,  Achilles  and  Ajai  play- 
ing at  the  BUHTd.  their  numes  being 
Marlieil  in  Greek  letters  ;  and,  on  the 
Other  tide,  Leda  and  Castor  with  his 
horse  and  dap:  i  the  third  rejiresenli 
the  death  of  Hector,  and  ii  olio  re- 
markable for  its  beauty.  Of  the  two 
Cerreiri  vases,  one  of  glubular  form 
represents  the  combat  of  Creeks  and 
Trojans  over  tile  dead  body  of  Patro. 
elua,  with  a  hoar  hunt  and  various 
wild  beaats  ;  the  other  represents,  on 
one  aide,  Pelcua  and  Thetis  receiving 
the  dead  body  of  Aeliilles,  on  III 
other,  Bacchus  driving  a  quadrig; 
The  molt  interesting   of  the  otht 

around    the    room,    were   fuutid    i 
Vutci  and  Cervetri,  and  represent 
great  variety  of  familiar  scenes  froi 
(  the  Greek  mythology.   \U.—SeiieiU.. 

Kaairr.   A  Jong  gHllery  containing 
■ge  number  of  vases  and  taiie 


ranged  on  shelves.  Though  tttval 
ihvm  were  fuuud  in  Magna.  Gratoa, 
and  among  the  Sabine  hilU,  by  Etr  Ibe 
greater  number  are  <rom  Vulci  and 
Cervetri.  The  collection  of  t»w  in 
tliia  and  the  succeeding  room  is  per- 

wum :  it  contains  numerous  speei- 
meiu  of  the  higbcsl  rarity  and  beauty, 
many  of  which  can  hordly  be  nir- 
paised  in  ate,  in  delicacy  of  Ibnn, 
or  in  the  interest  of  the  suhjeeti 
chosen.  Two  of  the  meat  beautifid 
had  been  mended  when  dbcovered,  a 
temarkablo  proof  of  the  value  set  upon 
them  by  the  Etruscans  themsBlveL 
llie  subjecu  present  us  with  a  com- 
plete epitome  of  ancient  mytholo^i 
we  recognise  mo^t  of  tlic  deiliea  with' 
their  symbols,  many  well-known  ej^' 
sodea  in  the  Trojan  war  and  thasiege 
of  Tiebes,  the  labours  of  Hereulo^ 
the  history  of  Theseus,  gymnaitis 
exercises  and  games,  races,  combM^ 
iptialproccBsions.and  religious: 


unrivalled  culleelion  of  palerK  u 
goblets,  found  chiefly  at  Vuld,  € 
most  remarkable  of  which  are  iUi 
Iruted  in  the  well-known  work  ei  "" 
the  "Museo  Gregoriano,"  Amoi^; 
the  most  interesting  of  the  eollestioB' 
is  the  series  culled  the  Tax. 
nnHliche,  iilnslrating  the  coi 
history  of  the  Argonautic  Expediticnta 

stage  ot  that  celebrated  expeditioi^ 
from  the  first  prepnratiuus  fbr  t' 
voyage  to  the  final  interposition 
Minerva  in  saving  Jason  from  t 
dragon.  Nothing  can  exceed  tb« 
beauty  of  these  representations,  Bnl 
we  cannot  imagiue  a  more  interesting 
subject  for  the  engraver,  both  as  i 
specimen  of  ancient  art,  and  as  au  U 
lustration  of  one  of  the  most  populat 
subjects  of  classical  mythology.  ThI 
Cabiuet  of  Pottery  in  this  chambei 
contains  some  rare  examples  of  blaok 
ware ;  among  the  pail      '  '    "" 

celebrated  one  found 
senting  Menetaus  hastening  to  aTengtf 
himself  upun   Helen,  when  he  is  sra 
\tea\.ei!.  \>^   vi^e  v"*"  °^  Vota,     Th« 


Pn^Mii  States.^    »•  27. — ^Rome.  —  Palaces;  the  Vatican.      477 

name  of  each  personage  is  inscribed  |  near  the  Tiber ;  —  a  war  chariot  of 
in  Greek  characters.  In  this  ball  is 
a  bust  of  the  enlightened  pontiff  by 
■wbom  this  museum  was  created :  it  is 
a  good  work  of  Cav.  Fabris,  the  pre- 
sent director  of  the  museum.     IX. — 


Roman  times,  found  at  Roma  Vec- 
chia,  on  the  Appian ;  it  is  elaborately 
ornamented,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  the  pole  and  wheels,  which  are 
modern  restorations,  it  is  so  perfect. 


JVtnM  CAom&tfr,  containing  the  Bronzes   that  doubts  of  its  authenticity  were 
and  Jewellery.      The    collection    of  long  entertained.     By  the  side  of  the 
Bronzes  in  this  chamber  is  highly  in-  |  car  are  two  very  beautiful  fragments 
teresting,  and  is  continually  increasing   of  colossal  statues :  one  was  found  at 
by  the  addition  of  new  objects.     On  |  Cbiusi,  the  otiier,   a  portion   of  an 
entering  the  room,  the  attention  is  at   arm,   was  found   in   the  harbour  of 
once  arrested  by  the  bronze  bier,  or    Civita  Vecchia,  and  is  considered  by 
funeral  couch,  with  6  legs,  found  at   sculptors  to  surpass  in  beauty  all  the 
Cervetri,   the  ancient    Caere,    in  the    ancient  works  in  metal  which  have 
celebrated  Pelasgic  tomb  which  was   come  down  to  us.     Arranged  along 
excavated   in    1826    by    Monsignore    the  walls  of  the  chamber  are  several 
Regulini  and  General  Galassi,  from*:  circular   stamped   shields  of  bronze, 
whom  it  derived  the  name  of  the  Re-    found  in  the  Regulini  Galassi  tomb 
gulini- Galassi  tomb,  as  described  in    with  the  objects   already  described ; 
our  account  of  Cervetri.     Near  it  are   six  of  them  are  3  feet  in  diameter ;  a 
sereral   tripods,   each    supporting    a   circular   shield    found   at    Bomarzo» 
cauldron   decorated   with   bas-reliefs,    also  about  3  feet  in  diameter,  with  a 
and  a  bronze  tray,  supposed  to  be  an   lance-thrust  in   it,   and    its   wooden 
incense  burner,  all  found  in  the  same   lining  and  leather  braces  still  perfect; 
tomb.     Among  the  other  treasures  of  a  bronze  hand  studded  with  gold  nails ; 
this  chamber  may  be  mentioned  the  '  several   helmets,   spears,    battle-axes, 
two  statues  of  boys  wearing  the  bulla ;    cuirasses,  greaves,  and  other  pieces  of 
oneofthem,found at Tarquinii, having  '  armour;  a  bronze   vizor;    a   curved 
an    Etruscan  inscription  on  the  left    trumpet ;  some  fans ;  numerous  beau- 
arm  ;  the    other,   found  at   Perugia,    tiful  candelabra,  of  great  variety  of 
having  the  inscription  on  the  right  leg, '  form  and  fancy ;  and  an  almost  count- 
and  holding  a  bird  in  his  hand  ;  —  a  less  collection  of  specchj,  or  mirrors, 
atatueof  a  warrior  in  armour,  nearly  as  !  many  of  which  are' highly  polished, 
large  as  life,  found  at  Todi  in  1 837  ;    some  gilt  on  the  reverse,  and  others 
the  helmet  terminates  in  a  cone,  and    ornamented  with  engraved  figures  or 
.the  coat  of  mail,  which  is  beautifully   inscriptions.     In  cases  placed  in  dif> 
worked,  bears  an  inscription  on  the  '  ferent  parts  of  the  room  are  most  cu- 
baldric ;  —  a  very  beautiful  cista  mis-  '  rious  collections  of  household  utensils, 
tica,  found   at    Vulci,  with    handles   flesh-hooks,  cups,  cauldrons,  strainers, 
formed     of    children     riding    upon  jugs,  locks  weights,  handles  of  furni- 
.awans,  and  decorated  with  exquisite   ture  richly  ornamented ;  a  series  of 
.reliefs    representing     the    battle    of  idols  in  black  earthenware,  found  at 
Achilles  and  the  Amazons ;  this  cista    Caere  ;    small    figures    of    animals ; 
contained,  when  found,  various  arti-  '  comic   masks ;   strigils,   or   scrapera» 
cles   of  a    lady's   toilette,   hair-pins,    used  in  the  baths ;  hair-pins ;  coins ; 
rouge,  two   bone   combs,   a   mirror, '  stamped  clay-pieces,  with  spots,  sup- 
&c. ;  — a  small    statue  of    Minerva, ;  posed  to  be  Etruscan  money  ;  a  pair 
winged,  with   an  owl  on  her  head, '  of  jointed  clogs,  the  frame-work  pf 
foundat  Orte; — several  braziers  from  '  bronze,  with  a  wooden  lining,  foun4 
Vulci,  with   tongs,  rakes,  and   sho-  '  at  Vulci ;  writing  implements  of  va- 
vels;— a  statue  of  an  Aruspex,  in  his   rious   kinds ;   and  last,   though   not 
sacrificial  costume,  with  an  Etruscan   the  least  in  interest  and  curiosity,  a 
inscriptioo  on  bis  left  thigh,  found  ;  Pdiugic  AlphabtU  Vix^lSs$Qi^  cvgl 


H»OT»47- — ROMB. —  Palatuf  AeVatiean,-  '<^Bl 


■nd  «rriMigtHl  iji  fcm|{lc  Irllcri  and  ir 
■;lliibln,wthil  it  mixht  serve  both  » 
>D>lpb>b««indiiiipelling-boDk.  Tbii 
nnurkable  relio  wm  finiiid  in  one  o 
the  toniln  of  ■ncienl  Cwre  {  CetvclrL ) 
il  hu  85  letten  in  the  pure  Pelai^ii 
Auactcr,  read,  unlike  the  Etnucan 
from  left  to  ri)[ht.  Dr.  Lepsius  o' 
Berlin,  regards  it  is  the  oioat  aneieni 
kDO«n  Clkmple  of  tile  Urtek  alpha- 
bM  uul  it*  ■mngemenU  and  consider! 
tbe  Ictleia  u  IhC  mott  aneieni  fomi! 
or  the  Greek  ehamctcn.      Among  i 


irbiU  othcH  are  composed  orleBTesoT 
ivy,  myrtle,  and  olive,  most  delicately 
wrought.  In  other  cumpartTDeDti  art 
Deeklace!,  bracelets,  brooches,  ear- 
rings, and  arnilets  of  solid  gold,  ia 
every  variety  of  pattern ;  many  nt 
them  ore  elastic,  and  the  grealei 
number  are  in  the  forni  of  a  serpal, 
either  ainyle  or  coiled.  The  bull*, 
or  amulclB,  worn  on  the  bretul,Bte  of 
large  liie,  and  elaborately  worktd, 
The  rings  •«  of  rariouB  kinds ;  mmt 
are  set  with  jewels,  others  are  jointed. 
Imply 


other   peculiarities,    the    letters   Eta  ,  biei  set  on  a  swivel.      The  car-ringi 

■nd  Omtga   are    altogetlier  wanting,  are  cien  more  varied   in    their  pal> 

whileOie  Taaand  Kbppoorc  present,  lemsj   some  consist  of  a  single  Wolie 

[    The  syllables   on    the   body    of   tbe  set  in  gold,  while  others  are  is  Um 

\  bottle  arc  merely  oombinalions  of  the  form  of  a  rnm's  bead,  a  bird;  or  other 

Mmsonanti  with  the  vowels  1,  a,  u,  e,  animals.      The    fibulK   for    faiteniiq 

beginning  with   Bi,  Ba,  Ru,  Be  -,  for  the  togs,  the  chains  fot  the  neck,  tke 


n  the  reli 
inaptly  called  a  I'dasgio  Iiorn-1>ook. 
'llic  Jemdltry  is  contained  in  a  paly- 
gonal  table  which  standi  in  the  centre 
of  the  room,  and  revolves  on  a  pivot 
fi»  the  eonvenienoe  of  visitors,  The 
compartments  into  which  il  is  di- 
vided are  covered  with  gissi,  nnd  con- 
tain a  miseellaneoiis  collection  of 
gold    omameats,    more    varied    and 

hai  yet  been  {urmed,  Tlie  extent  of 
the  eolleclion  is  surprising  when  it  is 
eunndered  that   mast  of  the  ohjcct'i 


clab 


e  ehan 


r  of 


-the   workmanship. 
I  tflrer  filagrees   of   iicnoa,    tne  gold 
I  -chains  of  Venice    and    Trichinopoly, 
^  do  not  excel  them  in  minuteness  of ,  vered  ii 

eieeution,  and  rarely  approach  them  .  qui 


^*c.. 


so  beaulifiil  t 


in  taste.     Tbe  pattern*  of  tl' 


skill  can  produce  tew  specimeni  of 
equal  delicacy.  One  of  the  moat  re- 
markable objects  in  thLi  table  is  lb>< 
embossed  brenstplate  of  the  wmrriofj 
buried  in  the  ReguUni  Galasii  tonb. 
It  is  of  solid  gold,  with  flbube  oC' 
the  most  elaborate  description,  and  m ' 
wrought    with      consumraaiB     akiH , 

cups  and  vases,  decorated  with  r^efi 
of  an  Egyptian  character,  many  irf 
which  are  inscribed  wiili  the  noma 
••  Larthia"  in  ElruMan  letters.  X., — 
TtHlh  Chanba-.  A  dark  passage,  con- 
taining several  interesting  sepulchnl 
mouumcnts  and  some  relieft  in  bniBl^ 
leads  us  to  the  Chamber  of  lit  Timih 
in  which  are  preserved  faithful  copici 
laa  of  the  paintings  doti»- 
lie  principal  lombs  of  Tn- 
in  Ihe  painted  tomb   nf 


tmaie  .  Vulci ;  they  do  ni 


eautiful,   s 


single   tomb,    but  a 


of  the 


court  of  modern  Europe.  Nearly  all  'Hie  Tarquinii  paintings  here  copied 
these  surprising  specimens  of  ancient  are  described  in  our  account  of  Tlu- 
att  were  found  in  the  sepulchres.  Inquinii,  at  the  close  of  this  volume, 
one  compartment  are  wreaths  Fur  the  I  under  the  several  heads  of  Oratta 
head,  duplets  Rir  the  priesu  and  ma-  |  delta  Querciolo,  Grottn  del  Triolinb. 
I  jri^rate^  and  bonds  for  the  female  Camera  del  Morlo,  Grotti  delle 
It^eMd-dreaa;  sumc  arc  simple  fiUcts,  Bi^Vie,GioUadul  Baione,  and  Grotia 


Papal  States.'}    r.  27. —  Rome. — Palaces;  the  Vatican.      479 


delle  Iscrizione.  The  Vulci  paintings 
are  copied  from  the  -only  painted 
tomb  ever  discovered  on  that  site  As 
this  tomb  is  now  entirely  destroyed, 
and  as  the  paintings  at  Tarquinii  are 
fitst  perbhing  from  damp  and  ex* 
posure  to  the  atmosphere,  these  copies 
are  of  great  value  as  studies  of  cos- 
tume and  domestic  manners.  The 
details  of  each  picture,  when  re- 
garded in  this  light,  are  of  exceeding 
interest;  in  one  we  have  the  excite- 
ment of  a  boar-hunt,  with  huntsmen 
in  full  costume;  in  another  we  have 
a  horse-race,  with  the  judges,  the 
stand,  the  prize,  and  all  the  anxiety  of 
the  start ;  in  another  is  represented  a 
death-bed  scene  of  touching  interest ; 
in  others  are  seen  various  dances, 
games,  funeral  feasts,  and  religious 
ceremonies.  This  room  also  contains 
the  Triptolemus  vase  formerly  in  the 
Poniatowski  collection,  several  red 
and  brown  fluted  jars  from  Veii  and 
Caere,  a  temple  sarcophagus  with  an 
inscription  recording  the  name  of 
Tanaquil  (Thanchvilus),  several  bra- 
siers,  and  other  objects  of  interest. 
XI. — Eleventh  Chamber ,  a  small  room 
6tted  up  as  a  fac-simile  of  an  un- 
painted  tomb ;  it  is  entered  by  a  low 
door,  exactly  copied  from  the  origi- 
nal, guarded  by  two  lions  from  Vulci. 
It  is  divided  in  the  interior  into  two 
vaulted  chambers,  with  three  benches 
of  rock,  on  which  the  sarcophagi  are 
placed,  while  the  walls  arc  hung  with 
▼ases,  tazze,  and  other  sepulchral  ob- 
jectSw 

The  Egyptian  branch  of  the  Grego- 
rian Museum  is  inferior  in  import- 
ance to  the  Etruscan ;  but  if  conti- 
nued in  the  spirit  in  which  it  has 
been  commenced,  it  cannot  fail  to  be 
of  g^at  value  to  the  student  in  en- 
abling him  to  connect  the  arts  of 
£tmria  with  those  of  Egypt. 

Gattery  of  the  Candelabra,  an  im- 
posing hall,  upwards  of  1000  feet  in 
length,  built  by  Pius  VI.  iVom  the 
deaigns  of  l^monetti,  and  filled  with 
a  miscellaneous  collection  of  antique 
canddabra,  columns,  statues,  &c.,  ar- 
ranged in  six  compartments.     Nearly 


all  these  objects  explain  themselves 
without  the  fatigue  of  a  particular  de- 
scription ;  it  will  therefore  be  sufficient 
to  mention  the  following  as  the  most 
remarkable: — Compartment  I. — Chil- 
dren with  birds*  nests.  A  hawk,  in 
black  basalt.  Compartment  II. — 3.  A 
satyr,  with  Pan  extracting  a  thorn 
from  his  foot.  9.  Diana  of  Ephesus, 
from  Hadrian's  villa.  29.  A  sepul- 
chral altar  with  bas-reliefs,  the  genii 
of  Death,  &c.  34,  35.  Sarcophagi, 
with  the  history  of  Orestes  and  Cly- 
temnestra,  and  the  story  of  Protesi- 
laus.  Compartment  III. — In  this  di. 
vision  are  arranged  all  the  objects 
found  at  Tor  Marancio,  on  the  &rm 
of  the  Duchess  of  Chablais,  who  pre- 
sented them  to  the  museum,  as  we 
read  in  an  inscription  placed  here 
to  record  the  donation.  The  triple 
Hermes  of  Bacchus,  Libera,  and 
Mercury,  with  reliefs  of  Venus  Ana- 
dyomene,  Apollo,  and  other  divini- 
ties, is  the  most  interesting  object. 
Compartment  IV,  —  12.  Sarcophagus 
with  Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  35-37. 
The  genius  of  Death.  43.  The  beau- 
tiful group  of  the  boy  struggling  with 
the  goose :  a  repetition  of  this  sub- 
ject, but  far  inferior,  is  in  the  Capitol. 
36.  Sarcophagus  with  bas-relic&  re- 
presenting Diana  slaying  the  children 
of  Niobe.  Compartment  V.  —  222. 
Statue  of  a  female  runner  in  the  pub- 
lic games.  3.  Nemesis,  from  Hadrian's 
villa.  8.  Statue  of  a  comedian.  Com^ 
partment  VI. — ^253.  Sarcophagus  with 
Diana  and  Endymion.  257.  Gany- 
mede. 265.  A  shepherd.  A  milestone 
with  an  inscription. 

Gallery  of  Maps.  —  This  fine  hall, 
420  feet  in  length,  is  celebrated  for  its 
series  of  geographical  maps,  painted 
in  fresco  in  1581  by  Padre  Ignaxio 
Danti,  afterwards  archbishop  of  Ala- 
tri.  They  are  interesting  chiefly  as 
illustrations  of  the  geographical  know- 
ledge of  the  period.  Tliose  of  the 
Italian  provinces  are  particularly  va- 
luable in  relation  to  local  boundaries. 
The  painted  roof  is  not  ao  much  no* 
ticed  as  it  deienrea. 


wevVtVt. — iXHUft— Jfcfaww  t  0Bl^akam,  ^ 


Th»  V«tJc«n  I.ibT*r)'  insy  ht  con- 

L  nldrred  lo  Ikvc  been  fbunilMl  bf  N>- 

f  eholiu  V,  (l«T),  who  Iniureired  to 

r.fcii  n*"  piUce  the  manincripls  which 

kI  been  Gollrcted  id  Ihe  l^tcroa  by 

t.  HiUrj  •»  onrljf  an  ibe  Slh  eenturj. 

"he  librarr  at  Ihe  death  of  Nicholai 


.r  Calill 


■  (Boriria).     The* 

Inirwi  until  the  time  of  Sliliu  IV. 

P  (dellk  Borere).  whoie  ual  in  restoring 
Uld  iDgmentine  the  library  i<  eele- 
bMled    by    Aciosto  and  by    Flatina, 

HBO.  The  preient  building  was 
erected  by  Siitui  V.  in  15S8,  Cnaa 
the  deiigni  of  Fontann.  a  new  apart- 
Diant  hating  become  necnaary  lo  re- 
ceirc  the  collections  mode  by  his  three 
immedbte  predeceKuirs  and  paiticu- 
larly  by  Leo  X.,  who  bad  lent  agents 
'  into  distant  countries  to  collect  nianu- 
[■  Wl^la.  The  celebrity  of  the  library 
I  ittas  priqwriy  from  the  clnae  of  the 
,  iGit)  eenlury,  when  the  munificence 
"  of  the  popes  was  aided  by  the  acqui- 
aition  of  olher  important  collecllons. 
The  first  was  that  of  the  famous  Ful- 
viin  Ursinu)  in  IGOO,  followed  by  the 
valuable  collections  of  the  Brnedictine 
monastery  of  Bobbio,  composed  chiefly 
of  Falimpwst*.  The  library  then  con- 
tained lO.RliO  MSS,  of  which  S500 
were  Latin, andSlSOGreek.  The  Pala- 
tine library,  belonging  to  Ihc  elector 
palatine  captured  at  Heidelberg  by 
Tilly,  and  pnseoted  lo  Pope  Gre- 
gorj  XV.  in  IGZl  by  DuU  Mail- 
milian    of    Bayaria, 


1956  of  which  were  Latin,  and  433 
Greek.  In  IS.'B  the  Vatican  jecei.ed 
the  lilirary  of  Urbino.  founded  by 
Dute  Federigo.  whose  passion  for 
booVu  was  so  great,  that  at  the  taking 
of  Volterra  in  1472,  he  resetTcd  no- 
thing but  a  Hebrew  Bible  for  his  own 
share  of  the  spoil.  This  colleclion 
enriched  the  Vatican  with  171 1  Greek 
and  Latin  MSS.     In  1690  the  Bih- 


Ihe    I 


;  liothcca  AlcxandiiDD,  the  colleclion  of 
Cbriltina   igueen    of    Sweden,    pssied 
into  the  library  j  it  comprehended  i"  ' 
tlie  taluable  treasures   taken  by  bi 
liither  GuslBvui  Adolphus  at  Pnigii^J 
Wurtiburg.and  Bremen,  andamO' 
ed  lo  3391  MSS.,  of  which  3101  i 
Latin,  and  190  Greek.     Clemeat  %t 
in  the  beginning  of  the  last  i 

presented  5S  Greek  MSS.  lo  t ^ 

ioction;  and  in  1746  it  receiied  Ifct 
splendid  library  of  the  Ottoboni 
mily,  conuining  3862  MSS.,  of  wliich 
3.191    were   Latin,  and    474    Greek. 

by  S6G  MSS  from  Ihc  library  o(  the 
Marquii  Capponi.  The  last  additiDP 
of  importance  was  ihal  of  162  GtcA 
lUSa  from  the  convent  of  S.  Baulia 
at  CrottB  Ferrata.  At  the  peace  of 
lai^,  the  late  king  of  Prusda,  a(  tli«. 
sufj^cstion  of  Humboldt,  applied  to 
Pius  VII.  for  Ihe  restoration  of 
of  the  manuscripts  which  bad 
plundered  from  the  Heidelberg  U 
by  Tilly.  A  more  favourable 
ment  for  this  requeit  could  not  ha 
been  chosen :  the  service  rendered 
the  church  by  (he  restore 
pope  to  his  throne  was  acl 
by  that  enlightened  and  irii 
tiff  on  all  occasions;  and   in  thi 


I.      At  the    present   time  < 
Vatican  Librarycotitainsiii  the  Orii 
Ul  collection  590  Hebrew, 
SO  Coptic,  71  .Xthiopic,  459 
64  Turkish,  65  Persian,  I  San 
13   Armenian,   2  llwrian,   S8  1< 
10  Chinese,  and  IS  S 
scripts.      The  amount    of  the  whi 
coUectionofGrcf  It,  Latin,  and  "  ' 
tal  manuBcripU  is  23,3X0,  the 
collection  in  the  world.    The 
of  printed  books    is  not   more  thai 
SO.OOO,    though    it    has  been  tooa^j 
stated  at  100,000  volumes.      The  li- 
brary is  open  daily  for  study  from 
in  tjie  morning  until  noon.  eKcepIing 
during  the   recess,   which   begins  on 
the  I6tb  of  June  and  continues  untU 


Papal  States."]    r.  27. — vlou^.^- Palaces  ;  the  Vatican.      481 


Kovember.  On  Thursdays,  and  on 
numerous  feast-days  it  is  always  closed, 
and  the  accommodation  is  so  limited 
that  only  those  who  wish  to  consult 
MSS.  can  find  places.  The  fee  to  the 
custode  for  a  party  is  from  two  to 
five  pauls. 

The  Entrance  HaJl  contains  in  a 
glass  case  a  fine  papyrus  relating  to 
the  funeral  rites  of  the  Egyptians.  In 
the  adjoining  room,  called  the  Chamber 
of  the  Scribes,  is  a  series  of  portraits 
of  the  cardinal  librarians;  that  of  Car- 
dinal Giustiniani  is  by  Domenichino. 
The  ceiling  is  painted  by  Paul  Brill 
and  Marco  di  Firenze. 

The   Great  Hally  which  forms  the 
chief  body  of  the  library,  is  divided 
by  pilasters  into  two  portions,  and  b 
decorated  with  frescoes  by    Scipione 
Cigetani,  Paris  Nogari,  Cesaro  Neb- 
bia,  and  other  artists,  representing  the 
history   of  the   library,    the   general 
councils  of  the  church,  and  the  build- 
ings erected  by  Sixtus  V.     From  this 
we  enter  the  immense  double  ycdleryy 
celebratetl   for  the   effect  of  its  per- 
spective.      Attached  to  the   pilasters 
and  the  walls  are  the  painted  cabinets 
or  presses  which  contain  the  books; 
these  arc  shut  with  close  doors,  so 
that  a  stranger  mif^ht  walk  through 
the  entire   suite   of  apartments,  and 
have  no  suspicion  that  he  is  surrounded 
by  the  first  literary  treasures  in  the 
world.      In  this  respect  the  Vatican 
Library    contrasts    disadvantagcously 
with  the  imposing  halls  of  the  Biitish 
Museum,  where  everything  tends  to 
sustain  the  literary  air  which  we  in- 
stinctively look  for  in  a  library ;  here 
nothing  meets  the  eye  but  bright  fres- 
coes and  Etruscan  vases,  and  the  effect 
which  might  be  produced  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  books  is  entirely  lost. 
On  one  of  the  pillars  of  the  great  hall 
is  an  old   Russian  Calendar  on  wood. 
A  more  interesting  object  is  the  Sar- 
cophagus of  white  marble,  containing 
the  winding  sheet  of  Asbestus,  found 
about  two   miles   beyond  the    Porta 
Maggiore.    Two  fine  tables  of  granite 
supported  by  bronze  figures,  and  a 
beautiful  spiral  column  of  Oriental 


alabaster,  will  not  fail  to  attract  at- 
tention. The  beautiful  Candelabra 
of  Sevres  china  were  presented  to 
Pius  VII.  by  Napoleon. 

The  Gatteries  contain  the  presses 
with  the  manuscripts.  In  the  left  gal- 
lery are  the  sitting  statues  of  Aristides, 
the  sophist  of  the  2d  century,  and  of 
St.  Hippolytus,  bishop  of  Porto  in 
the  Sd  century,  seated  in  the  pastoral 
chair,  on  which  is  engraved  the  cele- 
brated Paschal  Calendar,  composed 
to  combat  the  heresy  of  those  Chris- 
tians who  observed  Easter  on  the 
same  day  as  the  Jews :  it  was  found 
in  the  catacombs  of  S.  Lorenzo.  At 
the  end  of  this  gallery  is  the  Muuum 
of  Christian  Antiquities,  containing  an 
interesting  collection  of  lamps,  paint- 
ings, glass  vessels,  gems,  personal  or- 
naments, and  other  relics  of  the  early 
Christians,  found  in  the  catacombs. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  collec- 
tions is  that  in  the  second  press,  con- 
taining the  different  instruments  of 
torture  by  which  many  of  the  early 
Christians  suffered  martyrdom.  The 
bas-reliefs  on  the  walls  were  taken 
from  the  sarcophagi  in  the  catacombs  ; 
they  are  highly  interesting,  not  only 
as  examples  of  Christian  art,  but  as 
illustrations  of  the  religious  feelings 
of  the  time.  Some  of  them  are  sym- 
bolical of  the  consolations  of  Chris- 
tianity in  relation  to  death  and  sin; 
the  history  of  Moses  and  of  Jonas  and 
the  miracles  of  the  Saviour  are  tho 
most  remarkable  subjects.  Among 
the  other  collections  are  amber  vessels 
with  reliefs  and  Christian  symbols* 
carvings  in  ivory,  and  other  objects 
which  scarcely  require  enumeration. 
In  the  fourteenth  press  is  the  Dipty- 
chon  Raml>onenae  of  Agiltrude,  wife 
of  Guido  da  Spoleto,  a  curious  speci- 
men of  Italian  art  of  the  9tli  century. 
The  next  chamber,  called  the  Stanza 
c/e'  Papiri,  contains  a  valuable  series 
of  diplomas  and  charters  from  the  3th 
to  the  8th  century,  and  is  remark* 
able  for  its  historical  frciicaes  by 
Mengs.  The  rooms  beyond  this  con- 
tain a  very  interesting  collection  of 
Byxant\u«  «nd«axVl  \^»^^^xt\»^5^^^\c^^^ 


le  cril>inrl  of  quirii 

_.  ,.  _iJ..-mi   of  »t.ll)j  Ci    . 

f  it  ilt  irMnirrs  by  iinc  of  il>  aiala  of  tro  figures:  (he  btiiiegroonr 
...  sutBlon  during  llic  iiliwneB  ofi  is  liUiiiK  m  the  fuol  of  arichl;-can«(l 
t  •ourl  in  1848-9,  The  number  nouBb,  on  vhich  n(i  Iho  briile,  ultircd 
pdt*Ttoin*<l  to  be  miu'mg  ii  not  las,  in  vhile  drapery,  accompumeil  by  a 
>'  |)Mn  I9T.  Some  oftlieie  medali  were  feniBle,  wlio  teenulo  be  cotuolinghei; 
•f  pent  rarity,  and  Ibeir  ■(»«  is  a  pub-  on  the  eilreme  left  of  the  piduri  > 
lie  miafortuoe;  but  of  t!i«  gKat«r 'ptiest  and  two  jooilis  orestauiiingrt 
BUTbcr  the  din  ttill  remain  al  the 'a  ciraulir  allar  prcparin);  fiir  tfaelm- 
ml  t.  mm]  nearly  all  those  connected  Hal  oinrring.  Betveen  them  and  tta 
I  with  papal  history  ran  be  replaeed.  |  coueh  is  a  finely  draped  lemiilc  figun 
VOtbcn  howeier,  which  aiw  mimng.  rmting  on  an  alWr.  anil  holding  wh«t 
Wf4aatpruB  many  of  the  rarwit.and  some  appears  to  be  a  shell.  On  the  right 
PBNiijiie,  gold  eoiiia,  chiefly  of  tlie  of  the  piclureisagroupof  threeGgurei 
>  AiMnaa  atrin.  ThB  medal  of  Anti-  standing  near  n  tripod  :  one  holds  i 
MHM,  one  of  the  largest  specimens  of  tana  ;  the  second,  a  iiae  cDmnunding 
(old  coini  wbieh  have  been  banded  persanage.  wears  a  crown ;  the  third 
down  from  antiquity,  and  the  only  is  placing  on  a  hnrp  of  six  ilrii^ 
MM  knovn,  is  said  to  have  been  al-  Mr.  WilHaou.  whose  dewriptfon  of 
mdy  traced  to  a  forHgii  enure.  The  the  different  ilgnret  U  strangelf  tf  ' 
phtBderer  blinsclC  confessed  to  the  all-  variance  with  Ihe  picture^  thua  eri- 
etnutionofninetyraedali,  whose  lalue,  j  ticiies  the  eieeution  ;  "The  whole 
■t  Ihe  mere  weight  of  gold,  without  painting  is  in  a  light  sketchy  style, 
any  regard  to  ibeIr  arti^lie  or  numia-  The  only  colours  ustd  are  red  tf 
oulic  rarity,  amounted  to  upu-ardtof  ptoaching  to  a  rritnson  brown,  grctol 
3000 Mudi.  Tliechambereontainialsa  iooliniog  to  the  hue  of  rerdigris,  blil- 
■iiery  inleresling  portrait  of  Cliarle-  liant  ornngA  purple,  and  a  beaiitintl 
mignein  rresco.asold.prolHiblyiattbe  while.  These  colours  are  almost  ei^ 
Btfa  century,  and  the  eclebiated  H'oaa  clusiTcly  on  the  drapery  of  the  figuret 
jUdohraadtHi,  found  In  the  Batlu  of  The  Imckgiound  is  principally  ftkeli, 
Titus  in  \e06,  during  the  puntiHcate  up  »ith  a  screen  (?),  which  ii  of  ^ 
uf  Clement  VIII.  It  became  the  whitish  purple,  tbe  vacant  gTODnj 
property  of  tba  pope,  and  has  there-  being  surrounded  with  a  pale  greeK'* 
fore  been  designated  by  the  name  of  i  The  bridegroom,  in  ihe  opinion  of. 
bU  family.  I'or  many  yean  it  was  |  John  Bell,  is  the  finest  thing  he  bad. 
the  chief  ornameut  of  the' Villa  Aldo- >ter  seen.  "His  brown  colour  ^ret. 
brandini,  and  was  considered  the  moat  a  singular  appearance  of  hardiht^e^' 
beautiful  specimen  of  ancif'  -----      —^   ._i._^   _p  l.   t    .  *    <      ... 

ing  in  the  world,  until  the  d 
at  Here  ohm  eum  deprived 
^oTy.       Many     celebrated 

made  it   their   frequent  stu  ^ ^_^ . .^  .._  ^ 

•elebtnted  copy  by  >riclto]Ba  Poussin    between  strength  and  agility 

i.  — Eserved     in    the    Doria    Palace,    the   low   susUining    posture,    ^ 

mgh   injured   by  restorations,  it  [  Hrmly  on  the  right  band,  lialf  turning 
:unudercd  so  raluahle   in    ISIG  <  towards  the  bride,  is  wonderfully  con. 

it    was   purchased    of    Cardinal  i  ceived.      A   pleasing   tone    of  purily" 

Aldobrandini  for  10,000  Bcudi.  It  |  reigns  through  the  whole  compoaitioDi 
represents,  in  the  opinion  of  Win-  in  which  nothing  bacchanalian  oH&odi 
ckelmann.  the  Marriage  of  I'elcus  and  ihe  eye  or  invades  the  elioste  '  '  ~ 
Thetis:  (ho  coBiumo  and  the  aoces-  of  the  scene,"  The  other  antiqiie 
_  tariea  are  Greek,  which  seems  to  set  painlinga  preserved  in  this  room  werr 
Lm  rat  the  idea  of  the   lta\uiii  a\iVi-\,io\im\  tVieft^  w.  ftieww^Ubourhood  oi 


^■tfaa 
1  All 


inimiuble  skill,  slender,  of  tho  final; 
proporti — ■-■--  -"--  '     ■         '"     "^ 


Papal  States.']    r.  27/ — home. — Palaces;  the  Vatican.      488 


the  Via  Appia;  tbey  represent  PasU 
phae,  Scylla,  Myrrha,  &c.,  but  they 
are  not  sufficiently  remarkable  to  re- 
quire  a  detailed  description.  The 
cabinet  of  ancient  and  modern  engrav- 
ings, begun  by  Pius  VI.,  and  com- 
pleted by  Pius  VII.,  has  a  ceiling 
painted  by  Guido.  Another  room 
adjoining  contains  a  curious  collection 
of  ol)jects  in  terra-cotta,  found  among 
the  ruins  of  Rome,  and  arranged  and 
presented  by  Cajetano  Marini.  Still 
further,  in  the  series  of  four  chambers 
called  the  Appartamtnto  Borgia,  are 
printed  books,  illustrated  works  and 
the  library  of  works  on  art,  founded 
by  Cicognara.  lliese  chambers  were 
built  by  the  infamous  Alexander  VI., 
from  whom  they  derive  their  name. 
Chamber  I.,  remarkable  for  its  ceiling, 
decorated  with  paintings  and  stuccoes 
by  Giovanni  da  Udine  and  Perino  del 
Vaga ;  the  planets  are  said  to  be  from 
the  designs  of  Raphael.  Among  the 
ancient  bas-reliefs  preserved  on  the 
walls,  the  following  arc  the  most 
interesting :  —  2.  A  proce«>sion  with 
Lictors,  found  in  the  Forum  of  Tra^ 
Jan.  4.  Two  Boxers.  11,  13.  Por- 
tions of  the  frieze  of  the  Ulpian  Ba- 
silica, representing  children,  clnmaE>ras 
and  arabesques,  beautifully  worked. 
Chamber  II..  the  roof  painted  in  fresco 
by  Pinturicchio,  In  the  lunettes  are 
represented  the  Annunciation,  the 
Nativity,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi, 
the  Resurrection,  with  a  portrait  of 
Alexander  VI.,  the  Ascension,  the 
Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  the  As- 
sumption of  the  Virgin.  Antiques  : 
—  a.  Tlie  departure  of  a  Warrior.  3. 
Pclcus  and  Thetis,  Diana  and  £n- 
dymion.  6.  Education  of  Jupiter. 
Chamber  III.,  the  roof  painted  in 
fresco  by  Pinturicchio^  representing 
St.  Catherine  before  the  Emperor 
Maximian ;  St.  Antony  Abbot  visit- 
ing St.  Paul  the  Hermit;  the  Visi- 
tation ;  the  Martyrdom  of  St  Sebas- 
tian ;  Susanna  in  the  Bath ;  St. 
Barbara  flying  from  her  father.  Over 
the  door  is  the  portrait  of  Giulia  Far- 
ncse,  the  roiatrew  of  Alexander,  as  the 
Madonna,     Ckombtr  IV.,  painted  by 


Pinturicchio,  with  allegorical  figuref 
of  the  Virtues  and  Sciences.  An* 
tiques :  —  A  collection  of  terra-cotta 
ornaments,  lamps,  &c.,  bequeathed  to 
the  museum  by  the  celebrated  anti' 
quary  d*Agincourt;  fragments  of  a 
bronze  biga  found  at  Roma  Vecchia» 
with  modern  wheels  and  other  resto* 
rations. 

Tlie  right  Gattery  contains  the 
presses  with  the  printed  books,  and  is 
ornamented  with  frescoes  illustrating 
the  history  of  Pius  VI.  and  Pius  VII. 
It  contains  a  small  museum  of  anti- 
quities in  bronze,  ivory,  glass,  &c., 
consisting  principally  of  lamps,  vases, 
and  personal  ornaments ;  some  an- 
tique mosaics,  mediaeval  carvings  in 
ivory,  and  the  collection  of  cameos  ii\ 
pietra-dura  by  Giromctti,  purchased 
by  Gregory  XVI.  The  most  curious 
remains  are  the  nails,  tiles,  and  other 
fragments  of  the  framework  of  Caesar's 
villa  on  the  lake  of  Nemi,  long  sup- 
posed to  be  the  timbers  of  an  ancient 
vessel.  (Sec  Handbook  for  Southern 
Italy). 

The  principal  manuscript  treasures 
of  the  Tihrary  are  the  following :  — 
The  Bible  of  the  6th  century,  in  capi- 
tal letters,  containing  the  oldest  ver- 
sion of  the  Septuagint,  and  the  first 
Greek  version  of  the  New  Testament. 
Tlie  Virgil  of  the  Ath  or  5th  century, 
in  capital  letters,  with  fifty  miniature^ 
including  a  portrait  of  Virgil,  well 
known  by  the  engravings  of  Santo 
Bartoli.  The  Ttnnce  of  the  9th 
century,  with  miniatures.  The  ver- 
sions of  Virgil  and  Terence  were  in 
the  library  of  Cardinal  Bembo,  and 
passed  ivith  its  other  collections  into 
the  ducal  library  of  Urbino:  the 
Terence  was  presented  to  his  father, 
Bernardo  Bembo,  by  Porcello  Pan- 
donio,  the  Neapolitan  poet.  A  7V- 
renee  of  the  4tli  or  5th  century,  the 
oldest  known.  Fragments  of  a  VirgU 
of  the  1 2th  century.  Cicero  de 
Republica,  the  celebrated  palimpsest 
discovered  by  Cardinal  Mai,  under  a 
version  of  St.  Augustin*s  Commentary 
on  the  Puluia.  'Vhe  l^alimpMeat  if 
Liry,  Lib.  9\.»  ftoni  ^tv^  \^x«^   «!^ 

1  ^ 


rofteS?.— *0M«.— PoltKW;  <te  Tirtfewfe'^ 


4M 

Cliiiuini.    Quwn    tX  Svcclrn.      'Dio ,  (he   bnndvritinf!  of   Bwcoccio.  vilb 
fUt-trek  from  ibo  uiiircollcptlciii.wiih  ,  nolui  uid  lo  bo  bj  Pelrarch.      TbWf 
MMBibr  GrMiua.     I1>e  5(i>(Cu  uf  tliel  .4>r%Rt;>Jli,cDnbuniiig  a  (betehortiiB 
I4lh  cenlurr,  wiih  coinioenlsrlKs  by    Bm  tlirM  canto*  of  Hie  Ctntalm 
THwib,    BO     Enffliih    conlvmiwrarr  ,  wrillen   in   liit  Dmetcenlh   jnr, 
MboUr.  from  llii;  library  of  ihv  dukn    dediraled  to  tlie  Duke  of  Urbino  ; 
oTUrbino.      A  TO-ji,  wilb  inUmting    teveml  of  bU  Emsi  mid  Zh'dbg 
kur*«  of  nniiikakA^      Tlii?    i^fcfjuto^ii  .  Pxtrarch't  AuttH/rnpha,   including 
OntM.  or    Gret-k     cali-iidnr   of    the    Ai'ou.     The  Laiiu  poem  of  iJmua,^ 
IDtb  eentur;,    ordemcl    by   llie    Km-  I  Aonoiir  o/  Iki  Cmilas  Matilda,  vilfci 
Buil  :  •  fine  ciample  of  By-    ber   futl-lcngih   portrait,   and  wier^ 
•rL  brilliantly  illuminated  with    biilocicil  miniatures  ofgieal  intern) j 
'  '     '"  repentaDEeoTlh*' 


.    of  builicat, 
i*rlyn)oini  of   mill 
Mint!   of  llie    Greek    cburrli.       1 
■  HomiHn  of  St.   Gregory  Satianm 
the  jreu  lOSS,  mid  llie  Fuur  Gtupdi 
(be  jnu  ItSS,  both  Byiaiitiiie  Ml 
ttf  groat  iiilerest ;  ttio  lutlcr  is  fn 
Ifac  Urbino  library.      A  Greek  vcrti 
of  the  Acbi  0/  tlm  Apottia,  written 
gold,  prewnted  lo  Innocent  VIll.  by 
Cluriotlt.   Queen  of  Cvpriii       The 
Urge  Hibrtm  Bible,  in  folio,  from  the 
libni;  iif  Ibc   Duke  of  Urbino.  foi 
wbich  the  JewB  of  Venice  oITcred  ill 
welglil  in  f[ald.     The    Commtntariti 
OB  tit  NtiB  Total 
at    (he     Hlh     century,    by    Nitcolfl 
da  Boli^na.      The  Breviary  of  Mai. 
bUai  Coruini 


I  of  til 


■  1490,  b 
and  illuminalt'd,  from 


Seroa  of  a  Greek    MS.   of  the  Tlh 


!tlon 


oTCbgAiftor^o/Afiiui.  The  Q^ciV 
Jtfartif,  irilb  beautiful  miniatures 
The  CbJaz  JUutconiu,  a  calendar  of 
immenie  length  The  dedlcnliun 
of  the  Di  Sactamailii  of  HtHry  rifi, 
printed  on  •ellum  at  I.undon  in  ],50; 
irith  the  king's  aignalure  and  the  ai 
lograph  inunption  on  the  last  page. 


rn,l<mi.nre«He»ricu. 
Ooa  Dpui  el  Bdei  tea 


■.LeoUedmc 


Pjlie  Ltlttrt  of  Btniy  Fill,  lo  Aim 
'  SoZavR,  seventeen  iii  number;  nine 
■re  in  French,  and  eight  in  English. 
The  Dant*  of  thu  I5lh  century,  with 
miniatures  by  Giulio  Clovio,  the 
friend  of  Annibate  Caro,  and  pupil  ol 
Giulio   Jlomano,   from 


emperor  Henry  IV. 
Gregory  VII.,  Ac.  The  Lira n/DiJn 
F-ltriga  di  Monltfdtrn,  by  JW>uio,«nd 
of  Francaco  Maria  I.  detta  Bain,  bf 
I.romi,  with  miniatuTes,  by  Giulio 
Clovio.  The  autugrapli  copy  of  iIm' 
Amudi  of  Cardinal  fionnt  hi,  in  twdn 
volumn.  The  TreatiK  afiht  Eii^aat 
Frtdrrick  II.  on  HaicMiKg,  from  the 
Heidelberg  library.  Several  Jkfiiav- 
teripU  of  Lutha,  and  (he  principal  put 
of  the  Chriitian  CoIccAmir,  traBdaHd: 
into  German  by  Mdmtihon,  1356. 

Among  the  printed  books  are  mm 
of  tile  moit  beautiful  copit«  ot  pn»- 
rrpi  editions  and  others  which  hart 
ie<]uired  celebrity  trom  their  eilrciw 
rarity.  The  most  remarkable  oTUusB 
are  the  folloiving  ;  —  The  EpUOaaf 
St.  Jinmr,  printed  at  Rome  in  14GS  j . 
only  tn-a  other  copies  are  known. 
The  princepa  edition  of  .4iJu(CaSwi: 
only  two  other  copies  of  this  valu^e 
edition  are  known  i  it  bears  the  im- 
print of  Rome,  1469.  The  FHfyght  Bf 
Cardinal  Xinuars  (1514-17);  Olllr 
three  other  copies  known.  Tbe  AbSM 
Grir*  BibU  of  ISiB;  and  the  ^ruU« 
A'Uc  printed  at  Rome  In  1671. 

Maan/dctory  of  .WomiV*.  —  Trarel. 

lers  who  hate  admired   the  beauliftlt 

moaaips  of  St.    Peter's   should   Yiilit, 

jy  leave  Ibe  Vuticon,  the  in- 

_   studio   in  which   they   are 

manufactured.      Tlie  number  of  ena- 

uIb  of  different  tints   preserved  for 

s  purposes  of  (he  works  amounts  to 

leas  than  10,000.     llie  manufae- 

re  is  by  no  means  bo  mecbanieal  as 

generally   supposed 


libtmrf,      77ie  Oanle  dtl  Bottattia,  ku\\e&gii  oE  stv,  aoil  &  WW  v^veciotion 


Papcd  States,"]    r.  27. —  home. —  Palaces  ;  the  Capitol.        485 


of  tlie  different  schools,  is  requisite  to 
do  justice  to  the  subjects  which  are 
thus  invested  with  iraraortality  ;  and  | 
some  idea  of  the  difficulty  of  the  pro* '; 
cess  may  be  formed  from  the  fact,  that 
many  of  the  large  pictures  have  occu- 
pied from  twelve  to  twenty  years  in 
their  execution.  i 

Gardens  of  the  Futican,  —  Few  tra- 
vellers visit  these  interesting  gardens, 
which  deserve  to  be  better  known  to 
the  English  tourist.     In  the  time  of 
Pius  VII.  they  acquired  some  cele- 
brity as  the  place  where  that  estimable 
pontiff  received   the    English    ladies 
whom  he  honoured  with  an  audience. 
The  first  portion  to  be  noticed  is  that 
called  the  Giardino  della  Pigna,  begun  ^ 
by  Nicholas  V.,  and  enlarged  by  Ju-  ^ 
lius  II.  from  the  designs  of  Bramante, 
who  constructed  the  four  facades,    in 
front  of  the  principal  fa9adeis  a  large 
niche,  containing  the  two  bronze  pea-  ' 
cocks  and  the  colossal  pineapple,  11  ' 
feet  high,  found  in  the  mausoleum  of 
Hadrian,  and  supposed  by  some  anti- 
quaries to  have  stood  on  the  summit 
of  the  building.    The  Casino  del  Papa^ 
built  by  Pius  IV.  from  the  designs  of 
Pirro  Ligorio,  is  one  of  the  most  ele- 
gant villas  in  Home.     It  is  decorated 
with  paintings  by  Baroccio,  Federigo 
Zuccari,  and  Santi  di  Tito,  and  has  a 
beautiful    fountain    which    pours   its 
waters  into  a  basin  of  pavonazzetto, 
adorned     with     antique     groups    of 
children  riding  on.a  dolphin.    Among 
its  antiquities  is  an  interesting  series 
of  has  reliefs  in  terra-cotta,  collected 
by    Canova.     The    most    interesting 
fragment  of  ancient   architecture   in 
the   gardens   is   the   pedestal    of  the 
Column  of  Antoninus  Pius,  found  on  i 
Monte  Citorio  in  1 709,  and  removed 
to  this  spot  afVer  the  inetfectual  at-  j 
tempt  of  Funtana  to  raise  the  shafl, ; 
which   was   discovered    at    the  same  j 
time,     lliis  pedestal  is  1 1   feet  high 
and  1 2  feet  broad,  and  is  ornamented 
with  high  reliefs,  representing  the  apo^ 
theosis  of  Antoninus  and   Faustina, 
funeral  games,  allegorical  figures  of 
Home,  and  a  genius  holding  an  obe- 
lisk.    The  inscription   hat  been  al- 


ready quoted  in  the  account  of  the 
column  at  p.  S44. 

The  Pontifical  Armoury,  near  the 
Sacristy  of  St.  Peter^s,  contains  the 
iron  armour  of  the  Constable  de  Bour- 
bon, a  melancholy  record  of  the  cruel 
pillage  which  desolated  Rome  more 
than  all  the  attacks  of  the  barbarians, 
neither  sparing  the  monuments  of  an- 
tiquity nor  the  works  of  the  great 
masters  of  the  revival.  His  sword  far 
preserved  in  the  CoUegio  Romano. 

The  CAprroL. 

The  great  square  of  palaces  which 
now  occupies  the  summit  of  the  Capi- 
toline  Hill  under  the  name  of  the 
Piazza  del  Campidoglio,  was  built  by 
Paul  III.  from  the  designs  of  Michael 
Angelo.  The  effect  as  we  approach 
it  from  the  Corso  is  imposing,  al- 
though it  has  little  in  accordance  with 
our  preconceived  ideas  of  the  Roman 
Capitol.  The  easy  ascent  by  steps  a 
cordoni  was  opened  in  1536  for  the 
entrance  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V. 

At  the  foot  of  the  central  steps  are 
two  Pigyptian  lionesses,  in  basalt, 
brought  here  from  the  church  of  S. 
Stefano  in  Cacco,  near  the  Collegio 
Romano,  by  Paul  IV.  They  are  not 
to  be  confounded  with  the  lions  of 
basalt  at  whose  base  Ricnzi  fell.  On 
the  summit  of  the  steps,  at  the  angles 
of  the  balustrades,  are  two  colossal 
statues,  in  Pentelic  marble,  of  Castor 
and  Pollux  standing  by  the  side  of 
their  horses :  they  were  found  in  the 
Ghetto,  in  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  Near  these,  on  the  balus- 
trade, are  the  celebrated  marble 
sculptures  called  erroneously  the 
Trophies  of  Marius.  We  have  al- 
ready noticed  this  misnomer  in  the 
description  of  the  fountain  where  these 
sculptures  were  discovered  (p.  371.). 
Their  style  of  art  conclusively  proves 
that  they  are  imperial  works ;  Win- 
ckelmann  referred  them  to  the  time  of 
Domitian,  and  recent  antiquaries  have 
even  assigned  to  them  so  late  a  date 
as  that  of  Septimius  Severus,  though 
the  excellent  workmanship  evldeatl^ 
bespeaks  a  mucV  «QiV\<i;x  y«.x\q^o\  vcn.« 

1  ^ 


).  9T.— KOMf . — PtAmrt  OrfriM^'M-of  J9tMtfAi*>)U 


>rc  tlwiIalunorCaiutan- 
■  Kill,  found  ill  tlie  luthi 
^  lb*  Quitinal.  Ou  Ihe  right  orihe 
a,  U  Dm  aitremiljr  or  tliu  Iwlut-  ] 
_!,  u  lh«  oekbratcd  dJm'ua  Mil- 
Hn,  ihc  milestons  of  Vespaiiao  and 
na,  irliieh  mirkcd  the  6nl  mile  of 
)  Appiui  Waj  :  it  wu  Riund  in 
'4  in  tbe  Vignm  Naro.  a  sborl  dl>- 
)  bcTimd   Ihe   Po  ~      " 


The  c 
I*  li-A  baludrade  >i 


coliin 


ttsint  an  nniinue 

vnlBined   Ih«  adiu   of  Trijan,  and 

M  lirld  by  tlw  colmial  «tatiie  which 

on  the  tuminil  uf  hu  JiiitDricBl 

1  (p.  316.).      In  Ihe  centra  of 


nnddli!  ages  it  was  iuippon.il 

■Ishic   of   Constantlnc,    a    fortunate  | 

mot  far  Ihe  intercity  of  art,  since  it 

prctcrrcd    it  from    dntiuciion.       It , 
Brat  stood  near  the  arch  of  Seplimius 

t  thu  Laleran,  and  <vai  moved  to  it> 

I  petition  by  Micliael  Angdo  | 

■  ISSS.      It  Htandi  on  a  prdeMal  of 

Sirble  made  out  of  a  single  hlook  of 

■Te  fuund  in  the  Forum  of 

^an.       [t   U   the   only  equestrian  I 

n  bronze  which  has  been  pre-  , 

t<  ikned  to  us  OS  a  Bpecimen  nf  ancient 

■rt,  and  is  admitted  to  be  the  finest ' 

equettrlan  statue  in  existence.    It  was  ' 

originally  gilt,  as  may  be  seen  from  the 

traces  still  visible  on  the  horse's  head. 

The  admiration  of  Michael   Angelo  ' 

for  the  statue  U  wall    kuu<rn ;  il  is  I 

related    that    be   ssid    to    the    horse ' 

ComiKina,  and  declared  that  it<  action  , 

was  full  oFlife.      So  highly  is  it  prized, ' 

I  {fait  even  in  recent  years  an  offleer j 

ftwas  regularly  appointed  to  l^ke  care 

nf  it,  under  Ihe  name  of  the  Custode 

Friel  Catallo,  at  a  salary  often  scudi  a 

■'  'month.      It  was  found  near  St.  Juhn  [ 

Lateran,  and  a  bunch   of  RoiverB  is 

annually  presented  to  the  ehapler  of 

that  basilica  as  on   acknoirledjinlent 

that  it  belongs  to  Ihem.      While  Ihe  , 

■JOatUe  stood  in  front  ofthe  Lateral!  in 


the  rejoicings  whlth  celebrated  Rien- 
li's  eletation  to  the  rank  of  uihunB, 
Oh  that  memorable  occiuiaa  winevn 
mode  ta  run  out  of  one  QOftnl  tiul 

On  tlie  three  sides  of  the  piomm 
Ihe  three  separate  buildings  dewgncd 
by  Michael  Angelo.  Most  critics  fiai 
fault  with  the  architecture  as  being 
too  much  broken  into  details  ;  wlii« 
others  praiie  the  general  design,  and 
contend  that  the  great  defect  is  the 
nant  ofchnracter  in  the  central  nuv^ 
and  the  divergence  of  tlie  side  build- 
ings so  as  to  make  them  appear  shorter 
than  they  rcal!^  are.  The  large  win' 
daws  in  the  iide  fronts,  inserted  1» 
Giaconio  del  Duca,  Ihe  pupil  of  UK: 
chacl  Angelo,  greatly  injure  tbeunitf 
of  the  plan.  The  central  building  is 
the  palace  of  Ihe  Senator;  Ihalonthe 
right  n  ihe  palace  of  the  Conservs- 
lori  I  thai  on  the  led  is  the  Museum 
uf  the  Capitol. 

Founded  by  Boiiifhce  IX.  at  the  end 
'  the  Mlh  century,  on  the  ruins  of 
Tubutarium,  as  s  fbrllEedpUoe 
the  residence  of  the  Senator.  Tlie 
(lifsde  was  ornamented  by  Midiael 
'  -  ;ela  wiih  Corinthian  pilaster^ .  -* 


Angela  wiih  C 
made  to  harm 
luces, 
double 


with  his  new  gm- 


wof  El 


At  the  blM  H 
■ueied  bj  Sl^ 
tus  v.,  and  ornamented  witii  IhrM 
statues;  lliat  in  the 'centre  is  Minen^ 
a  fine  figure  in  Parian  marble  with 
porphyry  drapery,  found  at  Cora,  and 
commonly  called  the  statue  of  Bold^ 

lussal  figures  of  river  gods,  in  RaitM 
marble,  repretcnling  the  Nile  and  ttw 
Tiber,  found  in  the  Colonna  Gaiden^ 
and  referred  by  Nibby  to  the  time  et 
Ihe  Anlonines.  The  principal  apart- 
ment in  this  palace  is  the  hall  in  wbi^ 
Ihe  Senolor  holds  bis  court:  it  con- 
tains slalues  of  Paul  III„  Cregorx 
XIII.,  and  Charles  of  Anjou  ai  &»■ 
nator  of  Rome  in  the  ISth  ceotiiry. 
In  the  upper  rooms  the  Academy  at 
;Aie  Linut^iQ\i.^Wix«ieettn^  From 


Papal StatesJ]  route  27. — rome. — Palaces;  the CapitoL    4f87 


this  we  may  ascend  to  the  summit  of 
the  Toirer,  remarkable  for  one  of  the 
most  instructive  views  of  Rome,  de- 
scribed in  detail  at  p.  306.  The  great 
bell  of  the  Capitol,  the  celebrated 
Patarina,  captured  from  Viterbo  in 
the  middle  ages,  is  suspended  in  this 
tower,  and  is  rung  only  to  announce 
the  death  of  the  pope  and  the  be- 
ginning of  the  Carnival.  The  city 
prisons  occupy  the  base  <^  the  palace : 
in  the  passages  leading  to  them  some 
interesting  remains  of  the  substruc- 
tions of  the  Capitol  and  of  the  Tabu- 
larium  have  been  discovered  (p.  317.). 
[The  museums  and  gallery  of  the 
Capitol  are  open  to  the  public  on  the 
same  days  as  the  collections  of  the 
Vatican,  vis. ,  on  Mondays  and  Tliurs- 
days,  from  the  20th  to  tlie  23rd  hour, 
according  to  Roman  time;  so  that  the 
hour  of  opening  varies  with  the  season 
from  noon  to  3  p.  m.  They  remain 
open  for  four  hours.  Admission  at 
other  times  is  easily  obtained  by  a  fee 
to  the  custode.] 

Palace  op  the  CovsEavAToaf, 

On  the  south  side  of  the  square,  con- 
taining tlie  Protomoteca,  or  collection 
of  busts  of  illustrious  men,  the  Gal- 
lery of  Pictures,  the  Bronze  Wolf, 
&c.  Under  the  arcade  on  the  right 
hand,  is  a  colossal  statue  of  Julius 
Caesar,  the  only  statue  of  the  em- 
peror which  is  recognised  as  authen- 
tic. On  the  left  is  a  statue  of  Au- 
gustus in  a  military  dress,  with  the 
rostrum  of  a  galley  on  the  pedestal, 
an  allusion  probably  to  the  battle  of 
Actium.  In  different  parts  of  the 
court  are  several  interesting  frag- 
ments :  a  colossal  marble  bead  of 
Domitian  ;  the  cippus  of  Agrippina, 
wife  of  Germanicus ;  two  fragments 
of  porphyry  columns  found  in  the 
basilica  of  Constantine ;  the  fine  group 
of  the  Hon  attacking  a  horse,  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  Almo,  remarkable 
for  its  fine  workmanship  and  for  the 
restorations  of  Michael  Angelo ;  a 
hand  and  head  of  a  colossal  brouse 
statue,  formerly  suppo.^  to  be  the 
remains  of  a  statue  of  Commodus. 


This  head  has  been  identified  by  som^ 
antiquaries  with  that  which  Commodus 
placed  on  the  colossus  of  Nero ;  but 
Nardini  has  disposed  of  this  theory 
by  adverting  to  the  fact  that  the  statue 
of  Nero  was  of  marble :  he  considers 
I  that  it  more  probably  belonged  to  the 
bronze  statue  of  Apollo  which  stood 
in  the  Palatine  library.  Winckelmana 
also  rejected  the  idea  that  it  is  the  head 
of  Commodus.  In  the  back  part  of  the 
court  are  the  statue  of  Rome  trium* 
phant ;  the  keystone  of  the  Arch  of 
Trajan,  with  a  bas-reliefof  a  captured 
province,  probably  Dacia ;  the  two 
captive  kings,  in  grey  marble,  of  the 
time  of  Pompey  ;  and  the  Egyptian 
statues  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  and 
Arsinoe,  with  hieroglyphics  on  their 
backs.  The  feet  and  hand  of  another 
colossal  statue,  in  marble,  are  inte« 
resting  fragments ;  they  were  formerly 
supposed  to  belong  to  the  head  of 
Domitian  described  above,  but  they 
differ  from  it  both  in  workmanship 
and  proportion. 

Protomoieca^  a  suite  of  eight  rooms 
presented  to  the  Arcadian  Academy 
by  Leo  XII.  They  contain  a  series 
of  busts  of  illustrious  personages,  in- 
cluding those  which  formerly  stood 
aa  the  cornice  of  the  Pantheon.  I. 
In  this  room  are  suspended  the  regu- 
lations of  Pius  VII.,  defining  the 
privilege  of  admission  to  this  new 
Temple  of  Fame.  Tlie  six  busts  pre- 
served here  arc  those  of  eminent  fo- 
reigners, which  were  placed  in  the 
Pantheon  among  the  native  worthies, 
on  the  ground  that  they  had  become 
entitled  by  their  long  residence  at 
Rome  to  the  honour  of  naturalised 
Italians:  they  are  those  of  Nicholas 
Poussin,  Raphael  Mengs,  Winckel- 
mann,  Angelica  KaufTmann,  d*Agin- 
court,  nnd  Joseph  Suv6e,  director  of 
the  French  Academy.  II.  Contain- 
ing the  busts  of  celebrated  artists  of 
the  13th,  14th,  and  15th  centuries, 
executed  entirely  at  the  cost  of  Ca- 
nova.  Among  them  are  Brunelleschi, 
Niccoli^  di  Pisa,  and  Giotto,  by  AlU" 
sandrocTEtUi  Orcagna,  by  Laboureur ; 
Massaccio,    acvd   Lax^voa    Q^c)[>^()KC^^ 


489  W.57.— iKrtlt.— Wfc*«iftpft(»/(CwFW«wtfon).  CSectt 

bT  Oirlo  FimtBI !  Bralo  An(telico  cl«  bj  ^(fonix  irEle.  fiexaUd  by  tlw 
rmoir,  by  B^louhi !  DoiMtcllu.  hjp  Uucbn*  uf  Drvuiuhire  ;  Budoni.lbe 
Ctttari^l.  111.  The  bust  of  Piu*  mlElintml  painter,  %y  ^luwHrfn 
VIU  b^  Comi.  DuU*  uf  m1(-  iTffte;  Alilui,  ibc  printer,  bj  jfWia 
litatcd  iriJiU  of  (he  16lh  cvntur;.  all  BeniMtaipi  i  Venuti,  ll>e  intiqtarj, 
of  vhich,  villi  Ihr  eiceplion  uf  ilKt  by  Pmantiml;  Murfgni,  IhetmU- 
uf  Haplui;!,  wen  eieculi'd  at  tlie  coat  mnt,  bj  7'iidiia'i<j ,-  V>'rri,  nulhor  of 
■trCanora.  Amout;  Ibera  are 'lltivi,  the  Notti  Ramane,  b;  ^(.taiug  (TEA ; 
Mwlwl  Aniccla,  and  Bramante.  by  '  DunidD  Burtoli,  by  Barbu.;  Gwbrt> 
JlnundroJ'E.tuhionardoiUVinr],  tuM  Brccaria.  bj  BogtiauL  VIU 
•nd  CiiTnggio.  bj  ^Ibacini  i  Palladio,  Thia  chamber  containa  the  mominuot 
bt  Bigli,-cki  :  Fra  l)arl.>1mnmeo.  of  C.inc»a,  eXDCuted  by  FuKrii.  allta 
Paolo  Veronae,  and  San  Michele  the  cost  of  Leo  XII.  VIII.  BdMi  at 
atchitrrt.  by  Domtniro  Mamra ;  An-  eelubraled  muBicians  and  compotraii 
(trea  Manligna.  by  Ruinulili  i  Lu(«  Cimsrou,  by  Coaova,  prt«»led  by 
SigmatWi.  by  Pitrmlnitl i  Perugino,  Caidinal  Connlvi ;  Anionio  Maria 
by  JtiilmanJo  Trtnlaiott,  Andrea  del  Sacehini,  prcarnted  by  Daiinery;  C> 
Sulo,  by  A'laiiioirEih;  Marc  An-  relli,  pmentedby  C.'ardiral  Ottnbam; 
tODio  Hoiinondi,  the  celebrated  irn-  Paisiello.  presented  by  bia  suler,iiil 
grarer,  by  Lahaurtur  ,■  and  lUpbtel,  eieculed  by  Pierantom. 
eiiKutedat  Ihccott  of  Carlo  M<irii|[a.  I  At  the  IbotDrihcitafrnue,  Hidiad 
IV.  Bum  of  artuU  of  Hie  Ifitli. '  Ang.:ln'9  reaLoration  of  the  DuHim 
ITlh,  and  Ifllh  centnriei  t  Marcbi.  Column,  with  tlic  celebrated  fngmHt 
the  mililary  archilertandengiiiei-r,  by  Dflhe  ancient  inicriplion,  will  ihM  fi^ 
Bigtiatrlii:  Ciulju  Itoniflno,  and  Do-  to  attract  attention  :  it  is  nodced  ^ 
auTiicWma.by  Ah$KiHdra  dEtlti  Ca-  Ipnglh  in  Ihe  description  sf  Ihcc^ 
(■nggio,SdM*ti>Dadel  nombu.nhir-  lumn,  ut  ■p.SAS.  On  the  ilainaM, 
landiiifi,  and  Giovanni  da  Udiiie,  by '  uppogile  tlie  Piotomateca,  are  sotne 
LtJummrt  all  eivcuted  it  the  ceil  of  Inleretting  bos-relieb  :  that  of  Cm- 
Canora.  Annibile  C«racc),  executed  liua  leaping  into  the  gulf  is  curiam 
at  tbe  com  of  Carlo  Maralta ;  and  the  the  gulf  belnjc  theie  represenled  as  a 
Mlocing.  contrihuled  chiefly  by  the  mnrHh  (p.  317.).  llie  other  relidi 
Runilies  uf  the  arlisti :  Marco  Bcnc~  vera  Ibund  near  the  church  of  3.  Luca 
6al.  Flaminio  Vacca,  Perlno  del  Vaga,  in  the  Roman  Forum,  and  represent 
Taddra  Zuccari,  and  BartnUnnmeo  '  the  leading  oenta  in  the  life  of  Mar- 
Baronino.  V.  Busia  of  li^ckler,  the  cub  Aurelius.  On  the  walls  of  the 
celebrated  engraver  on  gem*,  by  landing-ptaeearetn-oother  bas-reliefs, 
JCnw'ia*;  Cajetanoltapini.and^etro  representing  Marcus  Aurelius  on  3 
Bracci,  by  Paeciti ,-  Cumillo  Kusconi,  jinlestal  reading  to  the  people,  and 
by  GiM-ppt  AairoNij  Fietro  Beret-  the  apolheosii  of  FauBtlni,  the  re- 
linl,  by  Plerantoni  i  Pirnnesi,  by  maint  of  hU  triumphal  arch  in  the 
Almandra  tTEite i  executed  at  tliti  Cono.demolishedby Alexander VII.: 
coat  of  CanoTB.  VI.  Busia  of  emi.  they  are  interesting  fragmenta  nf  a 
nent  aulhoTB  and  discoverers:    Danle,   good  atjle  of  art. 

and  ToMD.  by  AlrumntU-B  d'Ettei  HalU  of  thi  CanttrvatvTi,  not  open 
Columbus,  by  Trtnlanart ;  Galileo,  to  the  publid,  but  aecesi  is  easily  ob- 
by  Miners;  Mumtori,  by  Tadaliai ;  tained  by  a  fee  to  Ilie  custode. 
Tinbinehi,  by  Juloiio  dF.itt  .-  all  lit  taam,  painted  in  fresco  liy  Cat. 
preieuted  by  Canova.  Trissino,  the  fArjAno,  with  suhjccO  taken  froui  the 
f  poet,  by  OiMHppe  Fibrin !  A 1  fieri,  by  history  of  tbe  Roman  kings:  the 
"  I;  Petrureh,  and  Arimto,  by  finding  of  Itnmului  and  Kcmus,  the 
;  Goldoni,  by  Bigliotdtti  Me-  foundation  of  Rome,  the  rape  of  ilio 
I,  by  On-nciAi.  presented  by  Sabinea,  Nnma  Pompiliiia  lacriSong 
rdiaal  Riaumddi;   AnntbaU  Cud,  ii\t:tit.\i«itxnA\n,\»M.l« between 'Hilltu 


Papal  StaksJ]  route  27. — ROME. — Palaces  ;  (lie  Capitol.    489 


Hosttlius  and  the  army  of  Veii,  battle 
of  the  Horatii  and  Curiatii,  &c.  The 
other  objects  of  interest  are  the  marble 
statue  of  Leo  X. ;  another  of  Urban 
VIII.,  by  Bernini;  and  one  of  Inno- 
cent X.,  in  bronze,  by  Algardi. 

Qnd  roonit  painted  by  iMurettij  with 
subjects  from  the  republican  history 
of  Rome :  Mutius  Sco^vola  burning 
his  right  hand  before  Porsena,  Brutus 
condemning  his  two  sons  to  death, 
Horatius  Cocles  on  the  Sublfcian 
bridge,  the  battle  of  Lake  Regillus. 
The  statues  in  this  room  are  cele- 
brated Roman  generals  of  modem 
times:  Marc  Antonio  Colonna,  the 
conqueror  of  the  Turks  at  Naupactos ; 
Tommaso  Rospigliosi  ;  Francesco 
Aldobrandini  ;  Alcssandro  Farnese, 
duke  of  Parma,  distinguished  as  a 
commander  in  Flanders ;  and  Carlo 
Barberini,  brother  of  Urban  VIII. 

3rd  roonij  painted  in  fresco  by  Du' 
nide  da  Volterra,  with  subjects  taken 
from  the  Cimbric  wars,  lliis  hall 
contains  the  famous  Bronze  Wolf  of 
the  Capitol,  one  of  the  most  interesting 
monuments  of  the  early  arts  and  his- 
tory of  Italy. 

**  And  thou,  the  thunder-stricken  nurse  of 
Rome! 
Sbc-woU!  whme  brascn-imaged  dug«  im- 
part 
The  milk  ofconquett  yet  within  the  dome 
Where,  as  a  monument  of  antique  art. 
Thou  standcst :  ^  Mother  of  the  mighty 
heart, 
.    Which  the  great  founder  euck'd  flrom  thy 
wild  teat, 
Scorch'd  by  the  Roman  Jove's  ethcrial  dart. 
And  thv  limlM  black  with  lightning  —  dotft 
thou  yet 
Guard  thine  immortal  cubs,  nor  thy  fond 
charge  forget  ?*' 

It  would  be  easy  to  fill  a  volume  with  J 
a  mere  examination  of  the  controver- 
sies to  which  this  celebrated  monument 
lias  given  rise.  Some  authorities 
identify  it  with  the  wolf  mentioned 
by  Dionysius  and  Livy,  others  regard 
it  as  the  wolf  of  Cicero,  while  Win- 
ekelmann  and  later  antiquaries  con- 
found the  two,  and  describe  the  wolf 
mentioned  by  the  historian  as  the  same 
which  was  struck  with  lightning  in 
the  time  of  Cicero.      The  woVt  of 


Dionysius  was  "  an  ancient  work  of 
brass,"  standing,  when  he  saw  it,  at 
the  Temple  of  Romulus  under  the 
Palatine.  'J'he  wolf  of  Cicero  is 
mentioned  by  the  orator  both  in  prose 
and  verse,  in  the  Catiline  orations, 
and  in  his  poem  on  the  Consulate,  as 
a  small  gilt  figure  of  Romulus  suck- 
ing the  teats  of  a  wolf  which  was 
struck  with  lightning,  and  which  his 
hearers  remembered  to  have  seen  in 
the  Capitol ;  —  "  Tactus  est  ille  etiam 
qui  banc  urbem  condidit  Romulu^ 
qucm  inauratum  in  Capitolio  parvum 
atque  lactantem,  uberibus  lupinis  in- 
hiantem  fuisse  meministis.** —  Catilin, 
iii.  8.  It  is  generally  admitted  that 
the  wolf  of  Cicero  is  not  the  one 
mentioned  by  Dionysius;  while  the 
gilding,  still  traceable  on  the  monii« 
ment  before  us,  and  the  fractures  in 
the  hind  legs  which  appear  to  have 
been  caused  by  lightning,  have  in- 
duced the  most  judicious  writers  to 
regard  it  as  the  one  celebrated  by 
Cicero  in  the  passage  above  quoted. 
There  is  no  doubt  of  its  high  anti- 
quity :  the  workmanship  is  manifestly 
Etruscan,  at  least  the  workmanship 
of  the  wolf;  for  the  twins,  in  the  opi- 
nion of  Winckelmann,  are  modern. 
The  great  difficulty  which  has  arisen 
in  the  solution  of  the  question,  is  the 
discrepancy  in  the  statements  of  the 
antiquaries  respecting  the  precise  spot 
on  which  it  was  discovered.  It  would 
lead  us  beyond  our  limits  to  follow 
the  authorities  on  this  subject ;  but 
the  reader  will  find  the  whole  ques- 
tion ably  examined  in  Sir  John  Hob- 
house's  note  to  the  passage  of  Childe 
Harold  which  we  have  quoted  above. 
In  regard  to  the  main  fact,  "it  is,** 
he  sajis,  *<  a  mere  conjecture  where 
the  image  was  actually  dug  up  ;  and 
perhaps,  on  the  whole,  tlie  marks  of 
the  gilding  and  of  the  lightning  are  a 
better  argument  in  favour  of  its  being 
the  Ciceronian  wolf  than  any  that  can 
be  adduced  for  the  contrary  opinion. 
At  any  rate  it  is  reasonably  selected 
in  the  text  of  the  poem  as  one  of  the 
most  interesting  relics  of  the  ancient 
city,  and  \i  c«t\ik\v\^  ^\v^  ^^\w^^VItil^v 

n  S 


1.87. — nou%—Faima  I  Oipttol  (Gdttir^.- 


^Sr 


try  uilrnn),  to  vl.lcli    Viigl\  ■!. 


utiivr  omi'tU  in  Ihti 
imb«r  the  Aillutring  are  reinuL- 
•  : — ThB  liroaie  rtHtiie  of  the 
Mlb  utracting  b  thorn  frum  his 
mo  of  ihc  inwt  g[ai;crul  ligiiR't 

(,  a  luhU  but  (oineirhat  doulit- 

hl  hcidi    UUiw  TrifurmU;   uid  a 

M-rslicf  ofa  Brcaphiigiu,  reprtncnl- 

g  the  gate  of  Hailei  helveen  genii, 

•mbleiniliciil  of  IbK  lour  iiiaKiRs,  not 

older  ptubablj  than  tlie  3d  century. 

•UA  moiii,  containing  ilie  celebrated 
^ttti  Co—ilara.  (o\xi:A  near  Die  thccc 
Mlumni  in  tlie  Roman   t'urum  (h« 
Tample    of    Minerva    Clialeidica,   p. 
SW).    Tl-ew  intenstinif  marbles  con- 
lain  •  lUl  of  all  the  cunsuU  and  public 
•fflccTt  from  Koinului  la  tlie  time  of 
F  Augtuliu:  the;  are  much  mutilated, 
^■tid  broken  into  aumerous  rragnienls) 
ft^t  the  inscTiptioni  ere  ttill  legible, 
^ilnd  luve  been  illubtraled  wiih  great 
barning  by  the  celebrated  Cav.  Ilor- 
gheii  of  San  Marina  (p.  115.).     Tlie 
lecurdi  preserved    by   these   inicrip- 
lions  h«VB  not  been  uniformly  kept : 
after  B.C.  143  they  becume  imiHrfeit, 
■ever»l  magistrates  ufler  that  time  are 
altogether  omitted,  and  only  one  of 
the  ten  tribunes  is  menlioned. 

m  n>om(Hall  of  Audience),  con- 
taining a  bust  in  ra»o  nnlieo.  sup- 
posed to  be  Appius  Claudius,  a  butt 
of  Tiberius,  two  brouie  ducks  said  to 
have  been  found  among  some  ruins 
.on  ^e  T«rpciaii  rock,  a  head  of  Me- 
dusa by  Btraiai,  and  a  bust  of  Michutl 
Aagda,  raid  lo  be  sciilplured  by  him- 
selfi  the  head  is  bronze,  mid  tbe  bust 
white  marble.  A  Holy  Family  in 
'this  room,  afler  Rapliacl,  is  attributed 
lo  Giulia  SamuHa  {?). 

QiA  room,  ornamented  with  a  friexe 

.painted  in  fre«o  by  Annibalt  Cfaracoi, 

lepresenting  tbe   iriumphs  of  Scipio 

'•Tricanus.      Tli«  ,vjll,  are  hnng  with 

lestry,  made  in  the  hospiial  of  San 


do  IVmn  the  designs  of  llubmi. 
liiistt  in  the  Riur  corneis  of  tliii 
■te  uncertain,  but  linto  bnn 
called  Sapplio.  Ariadne,  Poppaa,  wilii 
of  Nero,  and  Socrates. 

1th  roatH,  painted  in  frcsi'o  vilb 
subject*  taken  Crom  the  hiatory  u{  the 
Punic  wars,  by  Sodema  (?);  ibey 
were  formerly  attributed  tu  Feril- 
ginu.  Tlie  statues  called  Cicero  onJ 
Virgil  arc  mere  names,  unsuppoited 
by  any  authority. 

8(*  room,  a  cbapel  containing  « 
Madonna  Bud  Child  tlitoned,  wilh 
two  adoring  angels  in  the  heaven^ 
by  WniiiriccAio,  full  of  beautj  and 
eipreasion  i  the  Evangelists,  by  Cartt- 
oaggio;  the  Eternal  Father,  on  Ibl 
roof,  bj  the  Schooioflke  Caracei,  Stl. 
Cecilia,  &  Aleais,  &  Eustachian  bihI 
B.  Luigia  Albertoni,  by 


Founded  by  Benedict  XIV.  (Um- 
bcrtini)  in  the  beginning  of  the  laH 
century.  Although  more  uumerou* 
than  the  Vatican  gallery,  it  contajnt 
few  important  works,  and  by  lir  the 
grenter  part  of  the  collection  condttt 
of  second-rate  and  even  third-rate  pic- 
tures.     It  is  open  on    Mondays  wt 

Museum'.  ' 

Firit  Booia. 
Pirtro  da  Cartaita.  S.  Sacrifice  of 
Ipbigenia.  15.  Rape  of  tbe  Sabinei, 
very  spirited.  SS.  Triumph  of  B»o- 
chus.  SS,  The  Virgin  adoiisg  the 
Saviour. —  Ganfith.  6.  Sia.  Lueia. 
8.  Madonna,  with  angels  and  CiaT 
doctors  of  the  chtuxili.  13.  Marriage 
of  St.  Catherine.  17,  19.  Two  Hoty 
Families.  41.  Ilaly  Family,  with  ■ 
rough  sketch  of  the  Circumcision  at 
the  back.  —  Guldo.  10.  Portrait  of 
himself.  II.  Sl  Jerome.  TO.  Ths 
blessed  Spirit  soaring  to  Paradiie. 
—  Vdatq^iex.  IB,  A  portrait,  finely 
coloured.  — i)oi.oZ>oj.i.  35.  Chriat 
in  the  Temple.  —  Annilniit  Caratv,, 
36.  Charity.    39,  Madonna  and  CllU4 


PqfalSkUes.2  route  27.— ^RO me. — Palaces  ;  the  CapUol.    491 


celebrated  Persian  Sibyl.  60.  St. 
John  the  Baptist.  —  Correggio»  43. 
Marriage  of  St  Catherine,  a  repetition 
of  the  celebrated  picture  in  the  niu> 
seum  at  Naples.  —  AlbanL  44.  Ma- 
donna and  the  Saviour.  —  Tintoretto, 
45,  The  Magdalen.  —  RomaneUi,  46. 
David  with  the  head  of  Goliath. 
67.  St.  Cecilia.  —  Agottino  Caracci, 
48.  Sketch  of  the  Communion  of  St. 
Jerome,  in  the  Gallery  of  Bologna 
(p.  33.).  —  Daniele  da  VoUerra.  51. 
St.  John  the  Baptist.  —  Domenichino, 
52.  The  Cumsean  Sibyl,  an  inferior 
repetition  of  the  celebrated  picture  in 
the  Borghese  gallery.  —  N,  Poussin, 
58.  Triumphs  of  Flora,  a  repetition 
of  the  same  subject  in  the  Louvre.  — 
Carlo  Caliari,  son  of  Paolo  Veronese, 
75.  Holy  Family. — Rubent.  76.  Ro- 
mulus and  Remus.  First  Bolognese 
School,  attributed  to  Francia.  87. 
The  Madonna  throned.  —  Caravaggio, 
90.  Meleager,  in  chiaro-scuro. 

Second  Room. 

Ptetro  da  Cortona.  2.  Copy  of  Ra- 
phaers  Galatea.  41.  Defeat  of  Darius 
at  Arbela.—  Garofalo.  6.  Adoration  of 
the  MagL  10.  Madonna  in  glory.  50. 
.Madonna,  with  two  saints  in  glory. 
52.  The  Annunciation.  60.  Adora- 
tion of  the  Shepherds.  62.  Madonna 
and  Child,  with  St.  Jolin.  —  Lodovico 
Mazzolino.  9.  Christ  disputing  in  the 
Temple,  formerly  attributed  to  Lippo 
Lippi. —  Claude,  11,12.58.  Land- 
scapes.—  Guido,  25.  Love.  40.  £u- 
ropa.  44.  Polyphemus.  100.  St. 
Sebastian,  a  celebrated  picture.  — 
Baroccio,  33.  Tlie  Ecce  Homo.  — 
Titian,  37.  The  Woman  taken  in 
Adultery.  43.  A  portrait.  67.  The 
Baptism  of  Christ.  —  Giulio  Romano, 
AG,  Judith.  —  Fra  Bartolommeo,  47. 
The  Presentation  in  the  Temple.  — 
Andrea  Sacehi.  48.  Holy  Family.  — 
Annibale  Caracci,  54.  St.  Francis.  — 
Bassnno,  63.  Judgment  of  Solomon. 
92.  Head  of  an  old  man. — Guercino, 
65,  Sta.  Petronilla,  considered  by 
many  as  his  masterpiece,  perhaps  the 
finest  picture  in  the  gallery ;  it  was 
formerly  in  St  Peter*s,  where  it  has 


been  replaced  by  a  mosaic  copy.  74. 
St  Matthew.  93.  Augustus  and 
Cleopatra.  95.  St  John  the  Baptist 
— Lodovico  Caracci,  68.  St.  Francis. 
71.  Holy  Family.     89.  St  Sebastian. 

J 14.   Sta.  Cecilia Caravaggio.     72. 

Gipsy, fortune-telling. — Parugino,  78. 
Virgin,  Child,  and  two  angels.  — 
Giovanni  Bellini,      75.  St.  Bernard. 

82.  His  own  portrait Salvator  Rosa, 

76.  86.  Landscapes. —  Fenusii  (?).  80. 
Portrait  of  Michael  Angelo,  formerly 
attributed  to  himself.  —  RomatuJli, 
90.  Innocence  with  the  dove.  —  Do' 
menichino,  109.  St.  Barbara,  a  half* 
length,  very  fine.  —  Paolo  Veronese, 
119.  The  kneeling  Magdalen.  123. 
Rape  of  Europa,  a  repetition  of  the 
masterpiece  in  the  ducal  palace  at 
Venice. 

Tlie  Secret  Cabinet,  opened  only  on 
application  to  the  director,  contains 
a  few  fine  pictures,  which  scarcely 
called  for  such  precautions.  They 
would  not  have  been  considered  in- 
delicate if  allowed  to  remain  among 
the  other  pictures  of  the  gallery,  and 
the  ideas  associated  with  a  secret 
cabinet  would  have  been  avoided. 
Among  them  are  the  Vanity  of  THtian; 
the  Fortuue  of  Guido,  called  by  Lanzi 
"  one  of  the  prodigies  of  Guido's  art,** 
repeated  in  the  Berlin  museum ;  the 
Magdalen  of  Guido;  St.  John  the 
Baptist,  by  Guercino;  the  cartoon  of 
GivUo  Romanovs  Stoning  of  Stephen, 
io  the  church  of  San  Stephano  at 
Genoa. 

Museum  of  the  Capitol. 

The  building  on  the  north  side  of 
the  piazza,  opposite  to  the  palace  of 
the  Conservatori,  contains  the  Mu- 
seum of  the  Capitol.  It  was  begun 
by  Clement  XII.,  and  augmented 
by  Benedict  XIV,,  Clement  XIII., 
Pius  VI.,  Pius  yiL,  and  Leo  XII. 
It  is  an  interesting  collection,  but  is 
much  less  extensive  than  that  of  the 
Vatican,  and  contains  few  first-rate 
works  of  sculpture.  At  the  bottom 
of  the  Court  is  the  colossal  recumbent 
statue  of  a  river  god,  well  known  by 
the  popular  name  of  Murjorto  v  It  ^«| 


HpRjC  |i1mcU  omt  Iho  irrh  of  Srpli- :  or  art,  twins;  "'"'  "f  ■''•-*  Hmst  bnotrn 

Hbui  Srriinii,  nail  bccninc  rumuui  ii    ctanipln  of  iMi-relirC      1 1  ifprewDIi 

■B»  nhirlf  fiir  ibv  T*ii1ies  lo  tlic  tnti-  I  th«  battit*  of  the  Gauls  mnti  UumaKK 

■fali  wiltirMin  oT  t^^iqiim.  (p.  379- )    The   G«ul*   hire  cards   ronnd  tboi 

^Bwlvo  annphap  liiuiid  in  llxenla-    nmks.    prBcistly    as   va    see    in   tiw 

Hvmtw  of  S.  Svbaitian  are  intcrnting    Uying  Ulniluilor^   aii  ailditional  pnol 

'^br  UmIt  hahfcUi^ra.      In  Hie  frlibHle    Ihal  Ihat  Gclvbrsted  statue  ii  ■  Cial, 

■I*  the   rullatring : —  ].    EndyRiion    and    tmiI    ■  gladiatur.       Among  Ibe 

•ad  hia  dog.     -2.    Culotaal   natue  uf  otlierinlemtingobjectitare  the  tqnan 

Uinrrr*.      3.   Consular  fuces  in  bat-    alUr  o(  PMtelic    marble,  vith   baa- 

"  t,     1,    Fra;tnH»it   of  a  lUIuu  uf  relier>  in  tl>e  oldest   style  of  Greek 

Mil**  viih  the  Hydra.    5.  Apollo,    iciilplurp,  TcpreKOting  the  libouia  of 

'mueoloaial    Batchante.      9.    A  !  Herculei,  fouiid  at  Albanoi   and  IS- 

in  pra*iBei!(Daciii?),  round  near    the  fiinpral  allar  of  'I'.  Slatiliui  Aper, 

W  Tanpl«  of  Antoninus  Fiui.      la  ,  mnsurer  of  the  public  buildings  with 

1    head    of   Cjbele,    fuund   in  !  bn-ralicfs,  in  which  the   ttoirel,  llM 

SI.    CiiIusmI  tlalae  Icompaaieii,  the  pluminel,  the  fool,  and 

I.    I'alyphemus,       Si.  '  variuui  inKtruments   of  bis   bunoeaa 

9S.    Hadrian  in  the  ucri-    are  iiUroduccd,      They  show  that  At 

:    roba,   found    near    8.  SiefHuu   Bncimit    Roman   fbot  was  not   quilc 

indu       99.    CoIoKul    bust    of   a  ^  IS  English  Inches  (il.5g> 

warrior,  ptoballly   Pyirbus  or  Mars.  '       Una  of  lit  SareapHagiii,  so  eafled 

Ibundon  the  Aventine.     SO.  Hercules   from  the  Hne  rarcophngus  of  Pentelia 

killing    the    Hydra.       31.    A   finuly    marble,  celebrated    fur    its   bss-rdief 

draped  fragment  of  a  female  fixate  ,  represenling  the  history  of  Aehilhl. 

near  Ibis  Is  an  elaborate  rpfcimen  of  j  The  sulijecl  of  the  principal  rrant  Is 

■milplure  in  porphyry  ;  il  remained   the    ijuarrel    between   Achilles  ^nd 

for  many  years  neglected  at  the  base  |  Agamemnon.      TTie  suUjePt  of  oneot 

of  the  stain  of  Araeoili.  tlie  sidm  is  the  departure  of  Aehilirs 

Before  vc  describe  Hie  cttlleetions ,  from  Scyros ;    and   of  the  other,  bn 

in  the  different  Halls,  we  may  notice    rewlulion  to  aTcnpe  the  death  of  iV 

the  Bromt  Horn  discovered  in    the ',  iroeluti.      At  the  back  is  a  flnn  retbf 

Trulevere    In    tH49,    lo    which    Ihe    of  Pnam  interceding  fur  the  bod;  of 

Director  ban  not  at  present  assigned    Hector.    Tbis  interesting  sarcophagos 

fta   final    pnsilion    in    the    Kluseum.    vai  fiiund  in  Ihe  remarkable  lumidus 

This  interesting  work  was  found  in    called  Ihe  Monte  del  Crano,  on  the 

llw  Vieola   delle  Palme,    where   the   road  to  Frascati,  three  miles  from  Um 

semi-colossal  Aihlele  of  the  Vatican,    gate  of  S.  GionnoL     Tile  celebrated 

and  a  fragment  of  a  broniu  bull,  of   Portland   Vase,  now  in    the    Britisb 

CoIohbI  dimensions,  and  ofa  line  style    Museum,  was  found  in  it      The  two 

of  art,  were  lulni'quently  dlacovered.    figures  on  the  lid  of  the  sarcophagus 

'rhcHDrsB  is  in  sodilapidaled  a  eondi-    were  formeriy  supposed  to  represent 

tJontlmt  it  requires  to besopporttd  by    Aleiander  Stverua  aiid  Mammea  hit 

prspa  an  every  slde,and  Ihe  head  alune    mother;   but  this  idea  !s  rejecled  by 

retains  the  lull  perfcc^on  of  its  form,     the  modern  authotitieg.      1.   Mosaic 

Hail  of  iKteriplimf,   coTitaining  a   representing  Hercules  conquered  "bj 

collection    of  imperial    and    eonsutar    Lnve,  Ibund  at   Porto  d'Anao.      ]  1, 

inscriptions,    192    in    numlicr,    from    Silting  statue  of  Pluto  with  Cerbenis, 

Tiberius   lo  ThcodosiuB.      The  most  i  (bund  in  the  Baths  of  Tilua. 

inltrestingubjeetintliishaIlUthe,$ur.;       Stairraia.  —  On    the  walls  of  the 

mjAaiiiis  fiiunil  a  few  years  ago  outside  i  staircase  are  the  celebrated  fragment* 

the  Porta  San  Scbastiano.      'llie  has-   of  the  Pimla  Capilolina,  the  ptai       " 

■relief  on  the  front  is  ettremelj  inle-    Rome  in  white  marble,  fbund  in  „„ 

^fMing  aad  of  great  value  a>  a  waiV.\Tem¥le  af  Remus  in  the  Homaa  Fo. 


Papcii Saues.']    R.  27. —  rome. — Palaces;  t/te  Capitol.       493 


rum  (p.  S33.),  and  supposed  to  be  of 
the  time  of  Septimius  Severus  or  Ca- 
racalla.  These  fragments,  in  26  com- 
partments, are  invaluable  to  the  Ro- 
man topographer,  and  have  more  than 
once  enabled  us  to  throw  light  on 
disputed  questions  connected  with  the 
antiquities. 

The  Gallery.  —  Opposite  to  the 
staircase  are  two  finely  preserved  busts 
of  Marcus  Aurellus  and  Septimius 
Severus.  The  walls  of  the  gallery 
are  covered  with  the  inscriptions 
found  in  the  Columbarium  of  the 
Liberti  of  Livia,  on  the  Appian,  in 
1726.  Among  the  busts  and  statues 
are  the  following  :  —  2.  Bust  of  Faus- 
tina, wife  of  Antoninus  Pius.  5. 
Silenus.  JO.  Curious  monumental 
relief;  the  deceased  appears  to  be 
represented  in  the  act  of  making  his 
will.  12.  Satyr  playing  on  a  flute. 
13.  An  antique  repetition  of  the  Cupid 
of  Praxiteles.,  of  which  we  have  already 
noticed  an  example  in  the  Museo 
Chiaramonti  of  the  Vatican.  17.  Ce- 
crops.  19.  Agrippina  and  Nero.  21. 
Marcus  Aurelius.  23.  The  laughing 
Bacchus.  27.  Paris.  28.  Sarcophagus, 
with  bas-reliefs  of  the  rape  of  Proser- 
pine. 29.  An  octagonal  cinerary  urn, 
with  7  finely  sculptured  Cupids,  in  re- 
lief. S4.  Niobe.  36.  A  Discobolus, 
badly  restored,  as  a  wounded  warrior. 
87.  A  wine  vase,  with  satyrs  and  bac- 
chantes in  low  relief.  38.  Colossal  bust 
of  Juno,  the  grandest  bust  of  the  goddess 
in  existence,  very  beautiful  and  femin- 
ine, and  finely  preserved.  42.  The 
Delia  Valle  Jupiter,  so  called  from  the 
family  to  whom  it  belonged.  44.  Diana 
I^ucifera.  48.  Sarcophagus,  with  bas- 
reliefs  of  the  birth  and  education  of 
Dacchus.  50.  Bust  of  Plato.  51. 
Phocion.  53.  Psyche  with  the  wings 
of  a  butterfly.  54.  Bust  of  Antinous. 
55.  Venus.  56.  A  female  sitting; 
the  drapery,  though  coarsely  executed, 
has  considerable  grandeur  of  style. 
57.  Jupiter  Ammon.  59.  Ceres. 
62.  Tiberius.  63.  Bacchus,  with  the 
panther.  64.  Fine  statue  of  Jupiter, 
with  the  eagle :  on  the  altar  under- 
neftth  is  a  baiii-relief,  giving  the  history 


of  the  vestal  Quinctia  drawing  the 
ship,  with  the  portrait  of  Cybele  ou 
her  waist.  65.  Jupiter  Serapis.  67. 
Bust  of  Hadrian,  in  alabaster.  71. 
Minerva,  found  at  Velletri ;  formerly 
in  the  Nuovo  Braccio  of  the  Vatican. 
73.  Silenus.  74.  Domitius  Enobar- 
bus,  father  of  Nero.  75.  Caracalla. 
76.  The  noble  vase  of  white  marble 
which  formerly  gave  the  name  of 
«  Hall  of  the  Vase"  to  the  next  Hall, 
in  which  it  stood.  It  was  found  near 
the  tomb  of  Caecilia  Metella.  It 
stands  on  a  circular  pedestal,  with 
bas-reliefs  of  12  divinities,  found  at 
Nettuno,  considered  by  Winckelmann 
as  an  undoubted  monument  of  Etrus- 
can art,  and  by  other  authorities  as 
an  example  of  the  early  Greek  style. 
It  was  evidently  the  mouth  of  an 
ancient  well ;  the  marks  of  the  cords 
are  still  visible.  The  divinities  are 
arranged  in  the  following  order :  — 

1.  Jupiter  ;  2.  Juno  ;  8.  Minerva  ; 
4.  Hercules;  .?.  Apollo;  6.  Diana; 
7.  Mars ;  8.  Venus  ;  9.  Vesta  ;  10. 
Mercury;  11.  Neptune;  12.  Vulcan. 

The  Reserved  Cabinet^  a  small  room 
on  the  right  of  the  gallery,  may  be 
seen  on  any  week-day  except  the 
public  days  by  paying  a  paul  to  the 
custode.  It  contains  the  Venus  of 
the  Capitol ;  Leda  and  the  swan ; 
and  the  Cupid  and  Psyche  found  on 
the  Aventine,  tvio  finely-proportioned 
and  most  graceful  figures. 

Hall  of  Bronzes,  called  also  the 
Hall  of  CamitlOf  from  the  fine  statue 
of  a  boy  on  a  triangular  altar,  sup- 
posed to  be  one  of  the  12  Camilli,  or 
young  priests  instituted  by  Romulus. 

2.  Bronze  vase  found  in  the  sea  at 
Porto  d*Anzo,  with  a  very  curious 
Greek  inscription,  stating  that  it  was 
presented  by  Mithridates,  king  of 
Pontus,  to  the  college  of  Gymna- 
siarchs.  36.  A  group  of  Diana  Tri- 
formis,  in  bronze,  as  Diana,  Luna, 
and  Hecate.  37.  The  celebrated  Iliac 
Table,  containing  the  history  of  the 
Iliad  and  the  fall  of  Troy,  by  Stesi- 
chorus,with  the  deliverance  of  ^neas; 
engraved  and  illustrated  by  Fabretti, 
who  refers  it  to  the  time  of  Nero. 


B,  27. — ROMB. — Palaeet  i   Capitol  (^Maseuni).   [St^t  I. 


;i9.  Sicrilicul  ItipoJ.  40.  Itonian 
wcLght^  ncsles  inMsuret,  ■  ilatero  or 
Mwlyard.  &c.  <l.  Triumph  of  B«c- 
i^hui,  Tlie  bronw  Ciut  found  at  tlie 
lnucofllic  Plmmidof  CuuiCMliui, 

t  of  til 
shdE.      it.    UUiu   of   Kphi 
MuttitnatniiiM,  u  tl>e   uune  of  all 
tli'mgi.      69.   Tlie  line  sircopliagut  of 


relicfi  of  II 


:  his- 


taty  at  Dianu  and  Endjraioi 
it  are  two  mouic  mndui.  found  in 
the  tiiiayard  uf  Ibe  Jesuits,  on 
Atcnline.  100.  A  imall  saniapltaguii, 
with  iotctcMing  iclicfs,  iepr»eniing 
tlic  creation  and  deitruction  of  Ihr 
Mul  according  lo  (he  dnclcInES  uf  chi 
lalcr  Flaloaisti.  101.  The  celubialei 
mouic  of  pLIKv'a  Doves,  one  of  Ihi 
flneat  and  mmt  perfeclly  preaiitvcd 
EpccimeoB  of  ancient  mouic.  It  r 
prcicnu  four  dovo  drinking,  with 
benutifol  border  lurrounding  the  con 

lairied  in  ■  Mjuarv  inch.  It  V. 
poHd  to  be  ilie  mouic  of 
dcscrilied  bj  F)iny  in  hi^  35i\i  boob, 
ai  a  proof  uf  the  pcifection  la  wliicb 
the  art  hod  been  carried  in  his  day. 


and  darkening  thi 
ahadow  of  ber  head 
t«sb1  others 
"  Mire 


plun.] 


ai|iiani  umbra  capitis  infuscans.  Apri- 
cantur  aiiBc  Habentcs  scse  in  cathari 
iHbra"  It  VIS  found  in  Hadrian's 
*ili«  in  1737  by  Cardinal  Furielti, 
froni  whom  it  was  purchased  by 
Clement  XIII. 

Hall  of  the  Bmperon.  ~  On  the 
h'bIIs  are  inlerestiag  haa-reliefa,  ar- 
rangE^d  in  the  roHowing  order  ;  —  A. 
'I'riumphs  of  Bacchus,  and  children 
at  the  gamei  oflhe  Circus.  B.  Bac- 
chus on  a  tiger,  with  feuns  and  satyrs. 
C.  The  Calydouian  boar-hunt,  not 
antique.  E.  The  Muses  (cmts  ftom 
a  Sarcophagus  now  in  Paris).  P.  A 
verjr  beautiful  relief  of  PersEus  dt- 
tivering  .indromeJa.       G.    SociaWs\' 


with  Philosophy,  and  Herodotus  wilb 
History  (cast  fn>ni  a  Sareopbagus  in 
Paris.)  H.  Endymlon  sleeping  wilh 
hit  dog,  found  un  ihc  Avenline.  I. 
Hylaa  carried  off  by  the  Nymphs.  Is 
the  middle  of  the  room  is  the  eete- 
tirated  sitting  Statu  of  JgrifmlnaQ), 
mother  of  Germanicus,  rcmartabU  for 
Ihe  esse  of  the  position  and  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  drapery.  Around 
the  room  are  arranged  on  two  shelves 
seyentj-siibusliof  the  emperors  and 
empresses  in  chronological  order,  a 
collection  of  grout  value,  which  pre- 
sentB  us  with  authentic  portraits  uf 
some  of  the  most  remarkable  person- 
ages  in  history.  Tlie  fulloving  an 
the  most  interesting :—  1.  Julius  Car 
sar{?).  2.  Augustus.  3.  Tlieyomf 
Mareellus  {?).  4.  Tiberius.  6,  Dm- 
tus.  ».  Antonifl,  his  wife.  10.  Go- 
innnicus.  11,  Caligula,  in  budb 
13.  ML-ssalina,  wife  of  Claudius.  IS, 
16.  Nero.  18.  Galba.  SI.  Tvta^ 
33.  Julia,  S4.  Nervs.  28.  Platint^ 
wife  of  Tnyan.  37.  His  sister  Ht 
riana.  29.  His  niece  Mntidifl.  SI, 
33.  Hadrian  S3.  Julia  Sabina,  bi 
wife.     34.  ^liusCiEsar,  his  adt^tUfl 

Marcus  Aurelius.  41.  Lucius  Veru^ 
42.  11  is  wife,  Liicilla.  43.  Comma- 
dus.  IC.  Clodius  Albiniis.  £iO,  51. 
Seuiimius  Scverus.  SU.  His  ws&, 
JuliLi  Pia.  33.  Caracalla.  54.  Gets. 
5S.  Macrinus.  57.  Ilcliogabalus, 
58.  AleiBoder  Severus.  53.  Mail* 
lus,  TS.  Tribonian.  SI.  Julian 
le  AposUte.  On  the  outside  of  |li« 
■iodow  is  an  ancient  sun-dial,  with 
the  lines  drawn  on  a  concave  surbee. 
0/  Me  PAilosop/uri.—Tbe  baa- 
reliefs  on  tlie  waits  are  the  followiiig  i 
Frieie  of  a  lempleof  Neptun^. 
B,  Death  of  Jlelesgcr.  C  Calli.^ 
-islrnctinB  Orpheus.  F.  An  inter- 
lent  G.  Funeral  procession.  I. 
I  victory.  L,  A  saciiflco  to  Hygeia 
I  rusio  BLitico.  M.  A  baoehic  scene, 
ith  the  name  of  Calllmiichus,  bund 
1  OrU.  In  the  centre  of  the  ball  u 
fine  marble  sitting  statue  of  Marcus 
lurcellus.  Round  the  room,  on  two 
a\ic\'iB5,    are    attao^ed    soveiity-oine 


Ptgxd States.']    r.  27. —  Rome. — Palaces;  the  Capitol.      495 


butts  of  philosophers,  poets,  and  his- 
torians :  —  I .  VirgiJ.  4,  5,  6.  Socra- 
tes. 7.  Alcibiades.  8.  Carneades. 
10.  Seneca.  11.  Aspasia(?).  20.  Mar- 
cus Aurelius.  21.  Diogenes.  22. 
Plato.  24.  Asclepiades.  27.  Pytha. 
goras.  80.  Aristophanes  (?).  81, 
^2.  Demosthenes.  S3.  Pindar.  84. 
Sophocles.  87.  Hippocrates.  38. 
Aratus.  89,  40.  Democritus.  41, 
42,  43.  Euripides.  44,  45,  46. 
Homer.  48.  Aspasia(?).  49.  Bust 
of  Scipio  Africanus,  with  the  wound 
on  the  left  side  of  his  head  carefully 
worked  out.  51.  Pompey.  52.  Cato 
the  censor.  54.  Sapplio.  55.  Cleo- 
patra. 57.  Lysias.  59.  Herodo- 
tus (?).  60.  Thucydides  (?).  62. 
64.  Epicurus.  63.  Double  Hermes 
of  Epicurus  and  Metrodorus.  66. 
Aristotle.  68,  69.  JVlasinissa.  72, 
73.  Julian  the  Apostate.  75.  Cicero. 
82.  .£schylus.  There  are  several 
heads  of  Plato  which  bear  his  name, 
but  they  are  only  bearded  images  of 
Bacchus.  The  last  bust  to  be  no- 
ticed is  that  of  Gabriele  Faerno  of 
Cremona,  the  poet,  one  of  the  few 
busts  executed  by  Michael  Angtlo. 

Tlie  Saioon.  —  The  two  columns  of 
porta  santa,  which  are  such  conspi- 
cuous ornaments  of  the  niche  in  this 
saloon,  were  found  near  the  tomb  of 
Csccilia  Metella.  The  two  Victories 
which  sustain  the  arms  of  Clement 
XII.  are  said  to  have  been  taken 
from  the  Arch  of  Marcus  Aurelius  in 
the  Cor.so.  In  the  middle  of  the  hall 
are  the  following:  —  Jupiter,  in  nero 
antlco,  on  a  circular  altar  found  at 
Porto  d'.Anzo.  ITie  two  beautiful 
centaurs  in  bigio-morato,  two  of  the 
finest  works  of  ancient  sculpture  in 
Rome ;  they  were  found  in  Ha- 
drian's villa.  On  the  base  are  the 
names  of  the  sculptors,  Aristeas  and 
Pupias  of  Aphrodisium.  A  colossal 
statue  of  the  infant  Hercules,  in 
green  basalt,  found  on  the  Aventine  ; 
the  altar  underneath  has  bas-reliefs 
representing  the  history  of  Jupiter, 
ililsculapius,  in  nero  antico,  on  a 
circular  altar,  both  found  at  Porto 
d*Anzo.    I.  A  satyr.     2.  Apollo.     S« 


Minerva.  4.  Colossal  bust  of  Trajan 
with  a  civic  crown.  5.  Male  statue 
with  the  head  of  Augustus.  6.  Fe- 
male statue  with  the  head  of  I^ucilla. 
7.  Lucius  Antonius.  8.  Hadrian* 
found  near  Ceprano.  9.  Male  figure 
in  the  toga.  10.  Roman  matron 
(Julia  Pia  ?).  11.  Hercules,  in  bronze 
gilt,  found  in  the  Forum  Boarium ; 
one  of  the  few  statues  in  which  the 
gilding  is  preserved,  but  the  figure  is 
mannered,  and  somewhat  formal.  The 
altar  underneath  bears  a  dedication  to 
Fortune.  12  and  26.  Amazons.  13, 
An  athlete.  14.  A  gymnasiarch, 
found  in  Hadrian's  villa.  \5,  A 
sibyl  (?).  16.  Amuse.  17.  Umentia, 
found  on  the  Aventine.  18.  Colossal 
bust  of  Antoninus  Pius.  1 9.  Diana. 
20.  A  hunter  with  a  hare,  found  near 
the  Porta  Latina.  21.  Harpocrates, 
with  his  finger  on  his  mouth,  found 
in  Hadrian's  villa,  in  1744. 

**  Quique  premit  vocem   digitoque   silenlia 
fiuadet."  Ov.  Met.  ix.  691. 

22.  Hygeia.  24.  Ptolemy  Apion,  as 
Apollo.  27.  Two  Portraits  as  Mars 
and  Venus,  found  on  the  island  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tiber.  28.  Isis  with  the 
lotus. 

Hall  of  the  Faun. — On  the  wall  is 
the  celebrated  Table  of  Bronze,  in- 
scribed with  part  of  the  Lex  Regia, 
containing  the  Senates  Consultum 
conferring  the  imperial  power  on 
Vespasian — the  very  table  on  which 
Rienzi  expounded  to  his  followers  the 
ponder  of  the  Roman  people.  It  was 
found  near  St.  John  Lateran.  The 
reliefs  on  the  walls  occur  in  the  follow- 
ing order  :  —  A.  Four  cars  drawn  by 
two  horses  each,  led  by  Cupids,  with 
the  attributes  of  Apollo,  Bacchus, 
and  Mercury.  B.  Vulcan  as  an  ar- 
mourer. C.  Front  of  a  christian  sar- 
cophagus. 1.  The  celebrated  Faun 
in  rosso  antico,  found  in  Hadrian's 
villa,  valuable  not  only  for  its  rare 
material  but  for  its  fine  sculpture :  it 
stands  on  a  mystical  altar.  3.  Colos- 
sal head  of  Hercules,  on  an  altar  de« 
dicated  to  Neptune.  6.  A  fine  colos- 
sal head  of  Bacchus^  aUo  on  a  roatcal 


B.  8T. — upaa.— I^foew;  CtipUol  (9Hwmifji  * 


.  Tliii  sltar  and  tlie  1*0  pre- 
vrre  fotinJ  in  elnciiig  the 
of  Patto  d'AniOi  and  ire 
\'t  been  fotivE  DfTcring] 
IS.  Sarcophigui,  n'iih 
i»-»)ivr(  iqirewnling  (he  ■tor)'  of 
Ihna  an>I  Etidj'inio.i.  15.  Tliu  boy  j 
'  ~  miuk,  full  of  iijiturc. 

A  ler;  Hue  a>  a  voik  of  art.     30.  | 
^  id   with   a   head  of  Ju- 1 

K    ii'petition  of  the   boy 
d  fCKiw  in  the  gtllery  of  the  Caa- 
ihbn  of  the  Vuicui,  but  fitr  iafe- ! 
ion ;  the  iltai  beneath  it ' 
E'detliDUed  to  the  Sun.      127.   Sarto-^ 
rilh  luu-relie^  of  the  battle 
II  and  Ibe  Ainuions.    Among  i 
■    group    of    citraurdinnrj  | 
iauty,  repri-Kniiiig  a  wlJier  Jrnj;- 


«n  only  be  ri'garJed  O' 
■re  admirably  reiturcd 


hu™n  riiDul  whi'b  fS^ 


Tiitn-  were   hi!  youiig  furbl 
Thm  wu  their  Duiaii  iiii>ih> 


Uon  froi 


e,  while 


interce'liH  for  her  eoini>anion.  This 
group  wa»  memioned  by  Flainmn  in 
liii  leelnrei  m  one  of  the  finest  tpeci- 
Ineni  of  ba.i-rEUer. 

JTaU  f/  lU  Dgiag  Gladiator.  — 
Nearly  all  thu  sculptures  in  lliU  hall 
nre  of  llie  higheal  eharselec  of  ul. 
•riio  first,  of  courK,  u  the  celebrated 
figure  froni  which  it  derive?  its  name: 
'    ""  (  Dtino  Gi.AnuTon.    There  is 


I,  prubably  . 


no  lunger  any  di 
dcrflit  fit;ure  is 
Gauliih  herald, 
mpposed  by  Ibe  most  eminent  mo. 
dun  soulpton  that  it  formed  one  of 
a  leriea  of  figure*  illustrati.ig  ibe  In- 
cardon  oT  the  CnuU  into  Greece. 
The  cord  round  the  neek  is  aoen  as 
one  of  the  distiuctive  cbsntctcrs  of  the 
Cauls  in  ttie  biu-relier  on  the  remark- 
able sareophagui  found  a  few  years 
ago  near  Itie  gale  of  San  fiebatliano 
(p.  493. ).  and  the  bum  ha.t  been  can- 
sidered  concluMveaslatheollireuf  Ibe 
herald.  Monlfiiucou  and  Muffei  sup- 
posed that  it  is  the  statue  by  Ciesi- 
laus,  the  contemporary  of  Pbidios, 
which  Pliny  describes  as  "  a  aouailed 
man  di/ing,  who  perfectly  cipresscn 
lioff  much  life  was  remaining  in  him." 
But  that  masterpiece  was  of  bronie. 
Budif  Ibe  present  statue  be  considered 
Hk  ^fgree  n-itb  J'liny's  desctiption,  tt. 


John  Hell,  describes  the  anatomy  oftba 
Dying  Gladiator  as  perfect  in  every  lo 
BpecL  "  It  is."  he  says,  ■'  a  niosl  tngf- 
i-al  and  louching  representation,  nd 
no  une  can  meditate  upon  it  vithoot 
(he  most  melancholy  feelings.  Of  dl 
proofs  this  is  the  surert  of  the  eT 
produced  by  art.  Alibough  not 
lossal,  the  proportion?  are  beyond 
pei'baps  seven  (eel ;  and  yet  fttim  itl 
hymmctry  il  does  not  appear  leren 
than  life.  The  tbims  arc  full.  roun<(, 
and  manly ;  the  visage  mournful ;  tin 
lip  yielding  to  the  effect  of  pain ;  tb» 
eye  deepened  by  despair  ;  the  ilun  of 
the  furcheadaliltlc  wrinkled;  thebair 
clotted  in  thick  gh.irp- pointed  locks, 


1  if  froi 


of  iigh 


hausted  strength  ;  the  body  large  ;  tha 
shoulders  square ;  the  balance  wdl 
preserved  by  the  band  on  whioh  ha 
rcBUi  the  limbs  finely  rounded;  tb* 
joints  alone  are  slender  and  Rne.  No 
alTectation  of  anatomy  here ;  ju 
museic  to  be  distingui^ed,  yet  the 
general  forms  perfect  as  if  they  were 
expressed.      Tlie  only  analomicsl  fea- 


of  full 


turgid  veins,   yet  not   ostenl&tioudi> 
obtruded,  but  seen  slightly  along  the 


i 

Papai StcUe9,1    a.  27-— Rome. — Palaces;  die  Lateran,      497 


like  the  clotted  hair,  proof  of  violent  tural  to  the  relaxed  state  in  that  po* 
exertion.  The  singular  art  of  the  sition  from  the  many  joints  of  those 
sculptor  is  particularly  to  be  discerned  \  parts.**     The  statue  is  interesting  to 


in  the  extended  leg :  by  a  less  skilful 
hand  the  posture  might  have  appeared 
constrained  ;  but  here,  true  to  nature, 
the  limbs  are  seen  gently  yielding, 
bending  from  languor,  the  knee  sink- 
ing  from  weakness,  and  the  thigh  and 
ancle-joint  pushed  out  to  support  it. 
The  forms  of  the  Dying  Gladiator  are 
not  ideal  or  exquisite,  like  the  Apollo ; 
it  is  all  nature,  all  feeling.**     It  was 
found  at  Porto  d*An7o,  by  Cardinal 
Albani,  about  1770,  and  was  for  some 
time  in    the  collection  of  the   Villa 
Ludovisi,  from  which  it  was  purchased 
by  Clement  XII.     3.   A  Roman  Ma- 
tron.    5.   The  Amazon,   one  of  the 
grandest  figures  of  its  class.     Much 
finer  tlian  the  repetition  in  the  Va- 
tican (p.  4  71.).  6.  Alexander  theGreat. 
7.    Colossal  statue  of  Juno  (?),  called 
the  Juno  of  the  Capitol.     9.   Marcus 
Brutus.       10.    A   Danaid(?),   called 
also  Electra  or  Pandora.    11.  Ariadne 
o<r  Bacchus,  crowned  with  ivy,  very 
fine.      12.  A  female  figure,  perhaps 
Hora,    finely  draped,  found  in   Ha- 
drian*8  villa.     1 3.    The  famous  statue 
of  Antinous,  found  in  Hadrian*s  villa. 
This  exqusite  statue  has  commanded 
the  admiration  of  all  critics  by  its  ex« 


mineralogists,  as  the  maible  contains 
in  the  right  leg  a  piece  of  pure  iron, 
long  supposed  to  have  been  introduced 
in  repairing  it ;  another  piece  occurs 
in  the  breast.  15.  A  repetition  of  the 
Faun  of  Praxiteles.  We  have  already 
noticed  two  others  in  the  Vatican  (p. 
465. ) ;  this  is  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
three :  it  was  found  in  the  Villa  d'Este 
at  Tivoli.  16.  A  girl  playing  with  a 
dove.  17.  A  noble  statue  of  Zeno, 
found  at  Civita  I^vinia,  in  a  villa  of 
Antoninus  Pius.  18.  Apollo  holding 
the  lyre,  found  in  the  sulphurous  wa- 
ters on  the  road  to  TivolL 

The  Lateran. 

The  Lateran  was  the  palace  of  the 
popes  from  the  time  of  Constantine  to 
the  period  of  the  return  of  the  Holy 
See  from  Avignon  (1377),  when  Gre- 
gory XI.  transferred  the  papal  resi- 
dence to  the  Vatican.  The  ancient 
palace  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  the 
pontificate  of  Clement  V.,  and  was  re- 
built by  Sixtus  V.  from  the  designs  of 
Fontana.  It  was  converted  into  a 
public  hospital  by  Innocent  XII.,  in 
1693;  and  in  1843  it  was  converted 
into  a  Museum  by  Gregory  XVI.,  as 


ceeding  beauty.  **  In  the  Antinous,**  j  the  best  means  of  preventing  the  build- 
says  John  Bell,  *'  the  anatomist  would  ing  from  falling  into  a  state  of  dilapi- 
look  in  vain  to  detect  even  the  slight-   dation,  and  of  providing  a  suitable  de- 


est  mistake  or  misconception  ;  yet 
such  is  the  simplicity  of  the  whole 
composition,  so  fine  and  undulating 
the  forms,  that  a  trifling  error  would 
appear  as  a  gross  fiiult.  Every  part 
is  equally  perfect :  the  bend  of  the 
head  and  declining  of  the  neck  most 


pository  for  the  works  of  art  for  which 
room  cannot  be  found  in  the  Vatican 
and  the  Capitol. 

'I1ie  Lateran  Museum  is  not  yet  open 
to  the  public,  but  a  couple  of  pauls  will 
easily  procure  admission.  At  present 
it  contains  on  the  ground-floor  the  plas- 


graceful ;  the  shoulders  manly  and  ter  casts  from  the  Elgin  and  JEgine- 
large  without  clumsiness ;  the  belly  tan  marbles  presented  by  George  IV, 
long  and  flat,  yet  not  disfigured  by '  to  Pius  VII.,  and  many  interesting 
leanness ;  the  swell  of  the  broad  chest  antiques  discovered  at  various  times 
under  the  arm  admirable ;  the  limbs  I  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rome.  Of 
finely  tapered;  the  ease  and  play  of  these  the  following  are  the  most  re- 
the  disengaged  leg  wonderful,  having  j  mafkable:  —  The  Brasehi  Antinoui,  a 
a  ser]K*ntine  curve  arising  from  an  ac-  colossal  statue  of  Antinous  in  the  cha- 
curate  observance  of  the  gentle  bend-  racter  of  Osiris,  formerly  in  the  Bras- 
ings  of  the  knee,  the  half  turning  of  .chi  palace.  It  was  found  at  S.  Maria 
the  anclcv  and  the  elaMtic  yielding  na-  \  deWk  WWa  n^w  l?«\«6XxvM.>^'t  ^'^^  ^ 


Ki 


appears  sadly  ou 


bf  lU^lriui :   it  ii  c1 

ind  iculptun-d    m   G 

he   modiirD    drapary 

ltd  after  the  d«iign  of  Ciiiiui 


of  the 

Agrippina,  Gi 

ClaudiiH,  Ac.,  recenlly  foui 


laa '  diutioiM  uf 
—  one  or  lire 


of   CarocoJli,   aod  ■  very  int 
minaic,  found  ouliide  the  Porta  Sm 
Lorenio,  reprewntinga  group  • 
nunVi  iisvd  in  the  theatres,  with  lh« 

them,  suchubauM  of  fishes  and  fowl 
leave)    of    Tegi-Iables,    fragm 
lireid,  &«.   The  lAHfr  Court  of  the  )W- 

period  of  the  Zuecari. 


which   appear   to  represent   tl>e  cin- 

bleon,  or   IhQ    dcilii.-<,    uf  the    three 

KlTUtcanciliH  whose  names  tbey  Iwar, 

Vetulonia,  Vulci.  and  Tarquiiiii.   The 

flnt  Ibrat  letter*  of  VuiccvulHI  are 

wanting  1  but  a«  the  name  of  no  other 

Etruican  city  ending  in  "cihtiiiii" 

would  aupply  the  missing  initials,  there 

can  be  no  doubt  that  Vulci  is  the  place 

cotnmemoratcd A  statue  uf  Klara, 

—  A  funale  figure  riding  on  n  lyni. 

. — A  coloswd  slag,  ill  black  marble. — 

An  unRnithed  statue  of  n  Daciau  eap- 

tiva,   with  the  (culptur'a  pulnis  biUI 

viiible.  —Iteiuaint  suppotcd  to  belong 

ta  the  Tomb  of  Zenobia.— Two  fine 

columns  of  pavonniw)  marble,  found 

ai  the  ancient  marble  ijuaj  of  Ilume, 

with  an  address  to  the  Emperor  Ha- 
drian cut  on  one  of  ihom — fflahu;  of' 

Sopliocla,  discateccd  recently  at  Ttr-  I 

racina,  the  finest  speciinea  of  at 

in  the  Muteum.      The  attiti: 

manner  ara  very  similar  to  that  of  the 

celebrated  statue  of  ^schines  (mis- 
palled  Aristides)  in  the  Naples  Gul-  j  ings  lias  been  more  severely 
•.lory  ;  oasts  of  both  statuei  are  pl^ed  ,and  yet  architects  have  beeni 
Laloae  to  each  Dtherin  one  of  thi  ...... 


The  pah 
of  its  p-'C. 

tures.      No  less  than  seventy-fiieaM 
enumerated  by  Vasi :  but  without  iik 
eluding  those  which  have  slight  pnt 
tensions  to  tbe  honour  of  the  I' ' 
there  can  be  no  doubt  tliat  Roma< 
tains  a  larger  number  of  princely : 
denees  than   any  other  city  in 
world.     Tbe   Raman  paUicet  an 
many  teapecti  peculiar  in  their  ai 
lEOtiirc,  and  present  a  •aluablv  fidd 
for   the  study  uf  the 
t  Itr-  I  other  capital  do  we  find  such  grwd 
ilpluce   effiiets  of  size  and  of  mflgnific 
lo  and    though  faulty  in  details  Itiei 
generally  gund  and 

scale.   No  class  ofbuild- 


.    kindii 


Europe  are  so  free  from  wb«t 
and  paltry  in  style. 
tenae,  however,  is  confined 
itecture.      The  interiors,  wllk 
options,  present  the  most  strilt- 
trasts,aiul  ill  accord  e'"       ' 


WL    IVeturt  Galleri/.—Oi 

^#r  the  palace  it  is  intended  to  f 
Picture  G.llery,  but  at  presei 
collection  is  in  its  infancy.  Thei 
however,  some  inleresiiug  specl 
including,  among  others,  a  go. 
lir-pieoo  with  several  saints,  by  WccoU  with  our  preconceived  ideas  of  palaces. 
.Almin} ;  an  altar-piece,  by  fi7tp/io'Tha  plan  is  generally  a  quadrangle, 
LIppi  1  and  llie  cartoon  of  the  Stan-  with  a  large  suircuse  opeuiog  on  tha 
ing  of  St.  Stephen,  by  Giulio  Ramano.  I  court.  The  windoHs  of  the  ground- 
in  one  of  the  rooms  is  Sir  Thomas '  flour  are  usually  barred  with  iron. 
,  ,iawreoee's  portrait  of  George  IV.,  'giving  the  lo"er  part  of  the  buildi 
mteaented  by  that  sovereign  to  Plus  ,l.\tea;\imancuo<n.  ptisan:   the  apart- 


Tapal  SiaCes.^   r.  27. — home,— Palaces  (Albani,  Aliiert),    499 


ments  of  this  floor  are  often  let  out  to 
tradesmen,  or  used  for  stables,  coach- 
houses, or  offices.  The  staircase  lead- 
ing to  the  upper  rooms  is  frequently 
of  marble,  but  so  covered  with  dirt 
that  the  effect  of  the  material  is  com- 
pletely lost.  The  upper  floors  form 
suites  of  chambers  running  round  the 
whole  quadrangle,  and  frequently  com- 
municate with  each  other.  These  cham- 
bers are  so  numerous,  that  one  floor 
affords  sufficient  accommodation  for  a 
single  family  :  hence  it  often  happens 
that  in  the  minor  palaces  the  owner 
reserves  a  small  portion  for  his  own 
use,  and  lots  out  the  remainder.  The 
rooms  to  which  strangers  are  admitted 
are  usually  paved  with  brick,  without 
carpets,  and  mostly  without  fireplaces. 
Columns  of  marble  and  gilded  ceilings 
are  not  wanting,  but  the  supply  of 
furniture  b  of  the  least  possible  amount, 
and  its  style  is  clumsy  and  antiquated. 
The  apartments  occupied  by  the  family 
are  less  liable  to  these  objections,  but 
•re  still  deficient  in  those  comforts 
which  constitute  the  charm  of  an  En- 
glish home,  and  add  so  much  to  its 
enjoyments.  In  a  few  of  the  old  fa- 
milies which  have  retained  their  feudal 
atate,  or  introduced  the  refinements 
and  luxuries  of  the  north,  the  arrange- 
ment of  their  palaces  is  more  consist- 
ent with  the  character  of  a  princely 
residence,  and  the  apartments  are  oc- 
cupied exclusively  by  their  own  de- 
pendents ;  but  these  instances  are  very 
rare.  In  the  palaces  of  the  princes 
and  the  four  Roman  marquises,  who 
bear  the  title  of  "canopied  marquises,** 
the  antechamber  contains  a  lofty  ca- 
nopy on  which  the  armorial  bearings 
of  the  owner  are  emblazoned ;  under 
tliiA,  on  a  kind  of  raised  throne,  the 
prince  sits  to  receive  his  dependents 
and  administer  justice.  This  decora- 
tion is  not  always  in  the  best  taste, 
and  is  frequently  allowed  to  hang  until 
it  becomes  dilapidated  from  age.  In 
the  following  list  we  have  not  confined 
our  notices  to  those  palaces  which  have 
obtained  celebrity  for  their  moveable 
works  of  art,  but  have  included  those 
also  which  have  permanent  attractions 


'  as  examples  of  architecture.  [The 
usual  fee  to  the  custode  is  from  2  to  4 
pauls  for  a  party,  and  one  paul  for  one 
person.] 

Palazzo  Albani,  built  by  Domenico 
Fontana,  about  1590,  formerly  cele- 
brated for  its  valuable  library  and  gal- 
lery. Nearly  all  its  treasures  have 
been  dispersed,  and  nothing  remains 
but  the  wreck  of  those  collections 
which  it  was  the  delight  of  Winckel- 
mann  to  arrange  and  study.  In  the 
court  are  a  few  antiques  of  minor  in- 
terest. 

Palazzo  AUemps,  opposite  the  Ger- 
man College,  built  or  renewed  in  1580 
by  Martino  Lunghi  the  elder,  and  con- 
sidered one  of  his  most  important 
works.  The  porticos  of  the  court  are 
by  Baldassare  Peruzzi,  to  whom  the 
original  architecture  of  the  palace  is 
probably  to  be  referred. 

Palazzo  Altieri,  with  one  of  the  most 
extended  fa9ades  in  Rome,  built  by 
Cardinal  Paluzze  Altieri  in  1670, 
during  the  pontificate  of  his  kinsman 
Clement  X.,  from  the  designs  of  Gio- 
vanni Antonio  Rossi.  It  was  for- 
merly celebrated  for  its  fine  library, 
rich  in  MSS. ;  but  this  has  disap- 
peared with  all  the  other  collections 
of  this  princely  family. 

Palaxzo  Barberini  {open  daily),  be- 
gun by  Urban  VIII.  from  the  designs 
of  Carlo  Maderno,  continued  by  Bor- 
romini,  and  finished  by  Bernini  in 
1 640.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  palaces 
in  Rome,  and  contains  a  small  collec- 
tion of  paintings  and  sculpture,  and  a 
valuable  library.  The  winding  stair- 
case is  the  best  example  of  this  con- 
struction in  Rome.  The  fine  bas- 
relief  of  the  Lion  on  the  landing  place 
of  the  grand  staircase  was  found  at 
Palestrina.  The  saloon  of  the  first 
floor  is  remarkable  for  the  frescoes  of 
its  ceiling  by  Pietro  da  Cortona,  classed 
by  Lanzi  among  those  compositions 
in  which  he  carried  the  freedom  and 
elegance  of  his  style  to  its  utmost 
length.  They  are  allegorical  repre- 
sentations of  the  glory  of  the  Bar- 
berini  family,  and  present  a  singular 
mixture  of  ncied  wnd  ^\q&xi<^  v^\«9^^^ 


500  RODTBaT.— *OKE.— P(dii«»(Bar&rrfnO.    [Beet.l 

"Hir  Riii-riitn.  formerly  ficli  in  nculp.  iipon  the  fcatutw  ;  she  *evm<  wil,  mid 
iLirtgnin,  ami  meJjt]".  beyond  vty  slriekcn  down  in>piiil,yi 
oilin  in  Itom*.  ha*  bnii  Killurcd  tliui  rxpreiiied  U  lightened  by  llK  |l«i- 
aniMig  the  dilTrrcnt  eotlcctiont  tf  llenoe  of  gnilleni'ts.  Her  hod  if 
EufO|w:  tha  Ilarliirini  Faun  n  st '  bound  with  bids  of  white  diaperj, 
Mnnicb,  the  I'uitlnnd  Vue  ii  in  th»  from  which  the  yellow  string*  of  JKt 
Bhtiih  Muwum,  and  the  g«mf  and  goldco  hairnwape,  and  friV 
liavD  pmoed  for  the  mort  part  ^  neek.     Tha  moulding  of 


'  privMe  Bollcction.^  The  R.>« 
anmiM  and  tarcophagi  now  rcmnining 
vara  faund  at  Palntrina  and  in  Ibc 
lianinu  of  Salluit.  The  Gulltrg  hai 
aW  toM  mote  than  half  iu  picturea  : 
Ihoae  vhivh  tenuin  haic  Iwen  much 
neglected,  anU  am  bad!]'  placed.    Fir>l 

Flour.     1 Gutrtino.      St.  Hatthev 

and  Si.  t.ulie.  —  Otroivgglo.  The 
I.u  Ic- player.  ^J^'ftm  lb  CoHana.  St. 
Carlo    HornHnca  —  SpafKoMlo.     St. 

Jemme.      11 Gtinima.     Elijah.— 

If.  PMHi*.  The  death  of  Gertnani- 
cui,  a  leiuneil  coinpMilion,  but  fi-ebly 
executed.  —  Guiila.  St  Andrea  Cor. 
•itii,  eoi'ii'd  in  muiaie  in  llie  Cortini 
ehapel  of  Si.  John  Laierao—  TiHni.. 
A  poiiratt.  Ground  Floor.  I.— Ai- 
pkad.  Tha  Furiiarina,  very  difler- 
ently  Irvated  from  the  ao-cilled  For- 
narina  of  Ilic  tribune  at  Florence. 
There  ii  no  doubt  of  Ibc  anlhenticity 
of  thii  picture  ;  the  armlet  bears 
lUpliacl's  name.  Ths  beauty  of  the 
eiiculion  is  iicH  at  first  ajiprecinted, 
■nd  the  countenance  hai  a  cnmmon 
eiprenion.  which  finds  few  admiren 
■IDong  thoie  who  have  seen  the  doiibt- 
'  '  "  "  ■      "lorencB  gallery. 

Tifiait.  A  female  portrait,  in  red 
white    entlume,    very   liesutiful 

id^harocterisiic. —  Gtida.  PoHTaitr 
:*f  aica  CiNci,  one  of  the  most 

itcbraled  (lictures  in  Rome.  The  fii- 
nn  lelh  us  that  it  was 
night  before  her  eiecu- 


fulF 

m 


painted  by  Guido  from  memory  after 
he  bad  seen  lier  mount  tlie  icaiTold. 
TTio  picture  is  well  known  by  the 
fine  dtmcripiion  of  the  poet  Shelley. 
"The  pie  Lure  of  Bcntrice,"  he  says, 


F' 


leoflh 


vclie 


tns  of  the  workmanship  of  ni 


iquiaitelydelica 


1  the  I 


is  a  fixed  and  pole  ctmpuaute '  ¥s«iiV^ . ' 


permanent    meonini;   of    imaglHaQOD 

and  Knubility  which  suSbring  bat  aM 

repreiaed.  and   which  it   seeRM  at  if 

death  tearcely  could  eitin^i 

fijreheid  ii  large  and  eli 

which  we  are  told  were  i 

their  riraeity,  are  swollen  irith 

ing.   and    luatrelesa,    but    beautiib% 

tender  and    serene.       In    the    «'   ' 

mien  there  is  simplicity  and  dig 

which  united  with  her  eiquirite  I 

ibly  palbelic.     Beatrice  Cenci  api 
to  have  been  one  of  those  rare  pa  . 
in  whom  energy  and  gcntlenesi  dwdt 
together,  without  destroying  one  aiM- 
llier:  her  nature  was  litnple  and  priH 
found.      The  crimes   and  miseries  In 


which  circumstances  clothed  her  Jfal 
her  impertonation  on  Ihc  scene  of  llw 
world."  The  terrible  tragedy  whidl 
hasinveated  this  picture  with  such  pe- 
culiar interest  took  place  at  the  Ctalie 
of  l>etn'llii,  described  in  HamtkuAfit 
S.llaly.  TheprisonsinwhichBeatriw 
was  confined  befiire  her  eiecutig 
shown  beneath  the  Turdinona 
aire.  Near  this  picture  is  one 
to  be  a  portrait  of  Bcalrioe^ 
mother.  Among  the  other  workaui 
tlm  collection  are  the  followini 
The  E.puWon  from  Paradist.  , 
Domenldiiiio.  A  small  Landscape,  lijr 
Climttf,  much  injured.  Christ  dis* 
pnting  in  the  temple,  attributed  to 
Arbtn  Durtr,  very  doulittiil.  It.— 
Glontnni  BrllinU?).     Madonna    and 

Child Baldaaare  Perutzi.   PygaiB- 

lion. Itidrra  dtt  Sarin.      Malkliiiia 

and   Child.  —  Gitrardo   detbi   NelU. 
Apprehension  of  Christ,   A  Holy 


»%&  lotu 


Papal  States.']   hte.  27. — home. — Palaces  (Borghese).      501 


the  Baptist,  attributed  to  Francesco 
Francia, — A  Pieta  which  has  been  at- 
tributed on  very  slight  authority  to 
Michael  Angela,      In  another  room  on 
the  ground  6oor,  lately  used  as  a  ma- 
gazine, are  some  frescoes  by  Paiidoro 
da  Caravaggio.     In  the  antechamber 
is  an  oval  bas«re1ief  of  a  half  figure  in 
armour,  and  crowned    with    laurel, 
supposed  to  be  the  portrait  of  RienzL 
The  Library  (  Biblioteca  Barberini)  for- 
merly so  celebrated  for  its  MSS.,  is 
still  remarkable  for  its  literary  trea- 
sures, but   in   consequence   of  some 
recent  losses  it  is  no  longer  open  to 
the  public.   The  autograph  collections 
are   perhaps   the  peculiar  feature  of 
this    library;  many    of    them    were 
formed  by  Urban  VIII.     Among  the 
most  interesting  are  the  letters  and 
papers  of  Galileo,  Bembo,  Cardinal 
Bellarmin,  Benedetto  Castelli,  Delia 
Casa,  See, ;  and  the  official  reports  ad- 
dressed to  Urban  VIII.  on  the  state 
of  Catholicism  in  England  during  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.,  which  are  full  of 
inedited  materials  for  the  history  of 
the  Stuarts.     There  are  twenty  MSS. 
of  Dante :  one  of  these,  a  folio  on  vel- 
lum, is  said   to  he  the  most  richly 
illuminated  of  all  the  known  copies 
of  the  Divina  Commedia.     The  ma- 
nuscript   on    parchment,    illustrated 
with  drawings  of  the  Roman  monu- 
ments, is  well  known  to  antiquaries; 
it  bears  th^  date  1321,  and  is  of  great 
value  as  a  contemporary  representa- 
tion of  the  antiquities.     The  printed 
books  amount  to  50,000:     many   of 
them  are  invaluable   on   account   of 
their  autograph  notes  by  the  most  il- 
lustrious scholars.  The  Hebrew  Bible 
of  1488  is  one  of  the  twelve  known 
copies  of  the  first  complete  edition  of 
Soncino.    The  Latia  version  of  Plato, 
by  Ficino,  is  covered  with  marginal 
notes  by  Tasso,  and  his  father  Ber. 
nardo ;    the   rare    Dante   of  Venice, 
1477,  is  filled  with  notes  by  Bembo; 
and  another  edition  of  the  great  poet 
has    some    curious  notes  by   Tasso. 
Other  works  are  enriched  by  the  mar- 
ginal  criticitms  of  Scaliger,   Aldus, 
Paulus  Mioutiu%  Holstenius  and  Leo 


Allatius,  the  well-known  librarians  of 
the  Vatican,  and  other  eminent  scho- 
lars. ^In  the  court  of  the  palace  is  the 
fragment  of  an  inscription  which  will 
not  fail  to  interest  British  travellers. 
It  is  a  portion  of  the  dedication  of  the 
triumphal  arch  erected  to  the  Em- 
peror Claudius  by  the  senate  and  Ro- 
man people,  in  honour  of  the  conquest 
of  Britain  and  the  Orkneys.  It  was 
found  near  the  Sciarra  palace,  where 
the  arch  is  supposed  to  have  stood. 

Palazzo  Borgheae  [open  daily,  ex- 
cept Saturday,  from  10  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. ; 
a  catalogue  of  the  pictures  is  kept  in 
each  room  fur  the  convenience  of  vi- 
sitors]. This  immense  palace  was 
begun  in  1590  by  Cardinal  Dezzi,from 
the  designs  of  Marti  no  Lunghi,  and 
completed  by  Paul  V.  (Borghese)frora 
the  designs  of  Flaminio  Ponzio.  The 
court  is  surrounded  by  porticos  sus- 
tained by  ninety-six  granite  columns, 
Doric  in  the  lower  and  Corinthian  in 
the  upper  story.  Among  the  colossal 
statues  preserved  here  are  Julia  Pia  as 
Thalia;  another  Muse;  and  the  Apollo 
Musagetes.  The  Galleryy  arranged  in 
nine  apartments  on  the  ground  floor, 
contains  several  pictures  of  the  highest 
class,  and  is  altogether  the  richest  pri- 
vate collection  in  Rome.  It  has  re- 
cently been  enlarged  and  rearranged, 
and  is  now  said  to  contain  upwards  of 
700  paintings.  As  each  room  has  its 
catalogue,  in  which  the  number  of 
each  picture  is  specified,  we  shall 
merely  indicate  the  most  remarkable 
works. — I.  Guido  Cagnacci,  A  sibyl. 
—  Jacopo  Bassano,  Adoration  of  the 
Magi. — Spagnoletto,  St.  Peter.— ^^of- 
tino  Caracci,  St.  Catherine  of  Siena. — 
Garofuh,  Holy  Family. — Sassofcrrato, 
Madonna  and  Child.  —  Andrta  del  Sar-- 
to.  .  Maclonna  and  Child. — Mttzzolino 
da  Ferritra.  The  Nativity. — Paolo  Te- 
roncMe.  St.  John  the  Baptist  in  the 
Desert,  with  a  group  of  figures  in  the 
background ;  the  picture  is  remark- 
able fur  its  fine  colouring,  and  parti- 
cularly for  the  eflTect  of  the  subordi- 
nate figures,  but  the  hand  and  arm  of 
the  Baptist  are  strangely  out  of  draw- 
ing. ll.--TVkeCViwcfto\\S\ai»»s^il><»^ 


toS 


*out«  ^.  —  WOWF-  —  WfcttJ  (Borghesf).     f  Sect.  I 


„_i.VAtiH.,  a  my  ctlrfiotec!  p^lurcij 
IIm  gmlJca.  Bltciidcd  lir  her  Kjinplu.  j 
Ji)  annlinB  the  prUc  of  ■  bow  mid  i 
'  trto  oim  at  her  njmphi  w(k>  h«  j 
ind  her  arrotr.  i^me  of  ihe 
.«•  *r«  beautiful,  l>iit  ulhcn  want 
lUy  and  dellcKj.  The  whole  fric- 
iiiie  la  brlllUntl/  culourcd — Agaitim 
Gmcti.  Thu  Maitdalcn;  Iload  of 
8t.  KnUnj.  — AnnibaU  Cumwf.  A 
Piell;  Head  of  Ht.  E'-nine'i(.  direl.T 
eolaund.' —  Giro/ah.  llie  Entoiob- 
nienl  of  ChrUt,  one  of  h'u  best  pic- 
tiiT«-.  llwhudsirerullof  eipreBion. 
—  /\Ww  drt  Vaga.  Madnnna  and 
Child,  with  St.  John.  —  Cijofi.  St 
Fraiicu  pcnUcnt.  —  Bonifuiio.  — 
Chntt  and  the  Apostles.  —  Giorgio 
yimri.  Lucrclia;  Led«.— SarDcr.V 
8t.  jMome;  the  bunting  of  Troy. 
The  porphyry  ■arcuph]^;ui  in  this 
room  wa*  found  in  Ihe  miu^oleum  at 
—LoHfimto.  'l"he«lory 


ofOm 


A  Norandini 


St.  Fmneii  anJ 
Ftranea.  Si.  All- 
the  Fithei,  with  i 


lilly  painted, 


Angr1«.  —  PbhIb 
iattj  preaching  to  tli 
grceniih  sky.  Tlie  ] 
ing  St.  Antony  is  poi 
but  Ihe  altilude  of  tnc  saint  wsnu 
dignity  :  and  it  has  been  humorously 
renurlcd  Ihat  iJie  (ithes  arc  al  such  a 
dlsUncethELl  they  hare  liillo  chance  of 
profiling  bj  his  diiiroiirse.  —  Rapha^. 
His  own  porttailat  iheageofthfrleen. 
^Pordenime.  Portraiuorhimsdrand 
Rimily.  —  Garafalo.  Madonna  and 
Child.—  Glueaimi  BellUi.  Msdonna 
and  Child  —.FTaUdK.  Aportmil.— 
Andrta  SacrM.     A  portrait. —  Palmu 

Giopaae.   Holy  Family Pamri/in- 

HO.  Sl.Cath«ineandDthcrsiiint<(.  IV. 
—  Raphael.  The  Entomihbbt  of 
Chsist,  IhH  first  historical  picture 
painted  by  Kaphncl,  who  was  then  in 
his  twenty-rounh  year.  It  was  ej. 
CCuted  by  the  illu!>lrious  arli^l  after 
his  return  from  Florence  Ibr  the 
church  of  8.  Francesco  at  Penmia, 
beinR  a  commission  from  Alalantal 
Baglioni,  soon  after  Giuvnnni  Paolo 
Baglioni  had  rpgaiiied  the  soTereignty 
■iflliat  eity.  On  one  aide  of  the  com.' 
jiosition   the  Saviour  la  b«ne  to  &c 


•epulchtc  by  [wo  meo,  whose  «li«- 
meiit  acliuii  cuntrstti  strongly  with 
■he  li&li'is  body  ;  Ihe  inleusily  did 
rariad  eipretiion  of  grief  are  Gn4} 
thown  in  the  St.  Peti'r,  ihe  St.  JAn, 
and  ihc  Hagdalcn,  who  surround  lh( 
nirpae:  while  on  Ihe  other  side  tht 
Virgin,  oierwhclmed  by  her  affiidtali 
has  fainted  in  the  arms  of  her  altend- 
ants.  It  is  a  mosl  touching  compo- 
sition, whivh  appeals  irrtslMi'lly  M 
Ihe  heart.  It  bears  the  date  U.D.TII, 
in  gilt  Irtters.  Several  drawings  (bf 
Ihii  picture  Ire  in  the  Lawrence  ovl- 
leetioD.  The  subjects  of  the  predclli. 
three  Hguresof  Faith,  Hope,  and  Cha- 
rily.are  in  the  Vatican  Galler?  (459.}. 
Dano  Dntii.  Circe,  with  a  beaudful 
landscapeinthelKirkground — Rtibm, 
The  Visitation.  —  Glorgioni.  Sml 
and  Darid,  remorkabie  fur  \K  rieb  M- 
1  mi  ring. — Domtnichitn.  TheCumaaa 
Sibyl,  one  of  his  best  known  and  ibchI 
celebrated  piclurea.  —  Cav.  d'.4/p£M 
Ew'-pn.  TwaaposilL-sinlhiarooraara 
attributed  to  Miehatt  Aitgtb  in  Ihe  M- 
lalugup,  but  the  pictures  themsdltf 
bear  evidence  that  they  are  not  lll> 

itorks,     V Albano.     The  four  d*- 

ments.— ^Wns  dil  Surla.  Madonna 
and  Child.— Gm.i/'JrpiBo.  Battteof 
Con-^antine.- GiKli'o  Aomriu?.  Copy 
of  Hnphael's  St.  John  In  the  trilwnB 
at  Florence,  scarcely  inferior  to  Ihe 
original.     VI.,  called  Ihe  Hall  offlM 

and  a  Venus  in  Ihe  bnth,  by  Giulh 
Roma«o,  Venus  and  Adonis,  by  Lata 
Cambiail !  Susanna,  by  Rubem  i  Ve- 
nus and  the  Satyr,  hy  Paalo  Ftnmet, 
tec,  —  SrbailiajiB  drl  Fiombo.  Tlie 
Flagellatiun,  a  small  picture  tiaid  If) 
hare  been  sketched  by  Michael  An- 
gelo  as  the  original  design  for  the 
weU-knnwn  picture  In  S.  Pietra  In 
MontoriD.  VII.—  TMaiL  Sacred 
and  Profane  Love,  an  allegorical  aub* 
ject,  representing  two  figures  tilting 
on  the  brink  of  a  well,  one  clothed  in 
white  with  red  sleeves,  Ihe  other  with 
Bry  over  Ihe  left  shoulder; 


papal  States.'}    route  27. — Rome. —  Palaces  (Braschi),    503 


drawing  of  the  female  foTvn.^-Haphaei. 
Portrait  of  Cesar  Borgia :  there  is 
lonne  doubt  whether  this  picture  be 
really  the  portrait  of  Borgia.  A  Car- 
dinal, also  by  Raphael,  —  Vandyke, 
The  Entombment.  This  picture  has 
been  wiitely  removed  from  the  fourth 
room  where  it  seemed  to  lose  its  in- 
terest when  contrasted  with  the  great 
work  of  Raphael.  "—  Pordenone,  A 
portrait  —  Caravaggio,  A  boy  with 
flowers.  -—  Agoftino  Caracci,  The 
Raising  of  Lazarus,  painted  on  slate. 
-.  Titian,  The  Prodigal  Son,  mas- 
terly in  colon  ring.— J?/iia6e/to  Sirani. 
Judith  praying  before  the  murder  of 
Holoiemcs. — Jaeopo  Bassauo,  Ado- 
ration of  the  Magi.  —  Innoeenzio  da 
Imoku  A  Holy  Family.  VIII.-- 
Titian,  The  Graces  binding  Cupid, 
exquisitely  coloured ;  Samson  bound 
to  the  column,  a  sketch. —  Guercino. 

The  Prodigal  Son Vandyke,     The 

Crncifixion.  —  Carlo  Dofci,     Head  of 

Christ ;     the    Madonna.  —  Bromino. 

Portrait  of  Cosmo  de'  Medici. — Garo- 

fain.    The  Raising  of  Lazarus;  Christ 

at  the  column.  —  Andrea  del  Sarto, 

The   Magdalen.  —  Caravaggio,     The 

Holy    Family ;    the    Infant    Saviour 

trampling    on    the  Serpent.     IX. — 

Gherardo  delta  Soite.     Lot  and   his 

daughters.  —  Ginlio    Romano,     Holy 

Family. — Andrea  del  Sarto  (?).   Holy 

Family.  —  Titian.    His  wife.  —  G?t«- 

vanni  Bellini,      Holy   Family.  —  Ti- 

moteo    Vite,     Portrait  of  Raphael.  — 

Correggio.    Tiic  Danar,  a  celebrated 

picture.     Danac  is  seated  on  a  couch, 

with  two  Cupids  at  the  foot ;  one  is 

trying  the  gold  on  a  touchstone,  the 

other  is  sharpening  his  arrow.     Love 

is  sitting  by  her  side,  and  catches  the 

gold  as  it  falls.  —  LioneUo  Spada,     A 

concert.      In  another  room  is  a  series 

of  eight  upright  landscapes,  by  Joseph 

Vcrnet,  painted  on  canvas  and  fixed 

in  the  wall.     The  Raphael  Freteoet, 

Among  the  treasures  of  the  Borghese 

Palace    are  the  frescoes  with  which 

Raphael  is  said  to  have  decorated  the 

Villa  Olgiati,   better  known    by    its 

traditional   title  of  tho   **  Casino  of 

Raphael ;  **  and  which  hare  recently 


been  removed  to  this  palace.  They 
consist  of  arabesques  and  medallions, 
in  which  a  remarkable  beauty  of  de- 
sign is  combined  with  the  most  deli- 
cate fancy.  The  most  interesting  of 
these  frescoes  are  the  arabesques  re- 
presenting Fauns  and  satyrs,  I^ves 
at  play.  Mercury,  Minerva,  &c. ;  the 
sacrifice  to  Flora,  the  Marriage  of 
Alexander  and  Rozana,  the  Archers 
shooting  with  the  arrows  of  the  sleep- 
ing Cupid,  formerly  attributed  to 
Michael  Angelo  ;  and  four  medallions, 
said  to  be  portraits  of  the  Fornarina. 
It  was  formerly  believed  that  all  these 
works  were  executed  by  Raphael,  but 
the  tradition  is  not  supported  by  any 
early  authority,  and  there  appear  to 
be  some  doubts  whether  the  villa  was 
ever  inhabited  by  Raphael.  The  de- 
corations are  now  supposed  to  have 
been  copied  from  his  designs,  and  from 
those  of  other  masters :  the  beautiful 
imagination  of  the  arabesques,  the 
graceful  play  of  the  figures,  and  the 
festoons  in  the  third  chamber,  denote 
the  style  of  the  immortal  painter, 
though  the  execution  seems  to  btf 
rather  the  work  of  his  scholars  than 
of  his  own  hand. 

Palazzo  Braschif  built  at  the  close 
of  the  last  century  by  the  Duke 
Braschi,  nephew  of  Pius  VI.,  from 
the  designs  of  Morelli,  and  recently 
purchased  by  the  £mperor  of  Russia 
for  his  son-in-law,  the  Duke  of  Leuch- 
tenberg.  It  is  remarkable  for  its 
imposing  staircase,  ornamented  with 
sixteen  columns  of  red  oriental  gra- 
nite, and  four  statues  of  Commodus, 
Ceres,  Achilles,  and  Bacchus.  The 
palace  once  contained  a  small  collec- 
tion of  pictures,  but  they  have  been 
all  dispersed  within  the  last  few 
years.  The  celebrated  statue  of  Pas- 
quin,  which  htands  against  one  of  the 
walls  of  this  palace,  has  already  been- 
described  (p.  379.). 

Palazzo  Buonaparte,  better  known 
as  the  P.  Rinuccini,  at  the  comer  of 
the  Piazza  di  Venezia,  built  in  1660 
from  the  designs  of  Gia  Mattia  de* 
Rossi.  It  was  formerly  the  property 
of  Madame  "Nl^Te^^^  ia<i^«T  o^  '^w^ 


( 


504 


ROUTE  27.  —  noMB— 


Icon,  ud  HDv  IwlonE*  Ui  her  fcrind- 
1.  tli«  Prince  of  Cuiiino.      ll  eon- 
nionM  nMKlern  pictura*  eiHinecicil 
|h  the  bittorr  oTthe  French  empire. 
ll  potiri>l>  of  ih*  binil;  anil  of 
,">  griwrah.  uid  the  ioalo|ci-  ' 
um  anii   libntjr  fufined   liy  ' 
jt  Pt'uttt  of  Cinino.  Iwtler  knowti 
f  the  MimliBe  traveller  u  Dorlet, 
Lniien    Buane|iiu'te.      The  mUKUm 
Emu  of  (he  rieheil  in  Europe,  and  U  j 
pivhapa  unique  u  ti\e  tl-suIl  of  indU  | 

_       tVata  ddia  Cancdltrla.  one  of  Ihn 

CmagniGeent  palacM  in  Rome. 
a  by  Cardind  Mcuarola,  and , 
eomuleled  in  M91  by  Cardinal  Itia- 
rio.  iwphew  of  Sixtm  IV.,  from  Ihe  | 
deii^ni  of  Btamanie.  It  wo*  built 
with  itanet  taken  froin  Ihe  Coliseum! ' 
the  IVirtj-fo»r  ((ranile  dolumni  whieli 
■uMain  the  doulile  poitico  of  ils  court 
an  tuppoaed  to  have  been  taken  from 
the  Tlieatre  of  I'ompej.  Tlie  door-  j 
way  »B«  di.-dgneit  by  Fonlana.  The 
nloon  is  deeoraied  with  frescoes  bjr 
Giat^a  Vatari,  Saltiati,  tta.  ThU 
palace  i>  the  oflieial  reiidcnce  of  the 


)iad  'agreed   to   pcrfcir 

m   li.e  deed  bI 

blood      The   count   1 

t  to  the  iHipular 

uve  eoDugh  iu  office  to  utiifjr  the 
revolulionary  party  who  had  then 
begun  to  feel  their  poirer.  He  had 
Ihkii  warned  of  hii  unpopularity  and 
hi>  danger,  but  he  would  not  belina 
that  the  people  would  harm  him,  itid 
declared  Wn  delerminalion  lo  dohii 
duly  and  meet  the  Chamliers.  Ac- 
cordingly, on  the  15th  Novcmlicr  bi 
proceeded  to  the  palace  at  the  hour 
appointed  for  the  meeting  of  (lie 
CliatoberB.  When  he  alighted  (twa 
hii  carriage,  accompanied  by  one  tit 
hit  colleagues,  he  wax  received  witli 
hiuex  and  whistling  by  an  imoieiiH 
ihted  in  front  ofthe 


lie  s 


!  (h^ 


U  and  proceeded   to  ascend  tbe 


irthc 


'Cardinal  Vice- Chancel  lor,  and  the'thcearut 
seat  of  the  Tribunal  of  the  Caneelleria  '  ensued  Jr 
ApoBloUca,  In  June,  1848,  it  be- ,  soni  wen 
came  ll>e  Palace  of  the  Roman  Par-  j  of  the  sU 
liament,  summoned  by    Piu.' 


cUin  by  a  blow  with  the 
hit  head  being  thus  thrown  back,  an- 
other rulfian,  who  lisd  been  hired  at 
the  price  of  18,000  SGudJ.  stabbed  bim 
in  the  neck,  diiiding  with  the  bloir 


uTes.    Three  per- 
at  diRerent  patu 

re  hix  destrustioti, 


t  of    I 


refori 


which   Rnnlly 

capital.  In  tne  loiiowmg  inumn  ii 
was  the  scene  of  the  memorable  out- 
rage in  which  the  rooli,  itnilating  that 
of  Paris  in  the  previous  May,  burst 

were  littiiig.  and  demanded  an  im- 
mediate declaration  of  war  a^aiast 
Austria.  In  the  November  follow- 
iog,  it  acnuired  an  Infamoui  notoriety 

of  Pius  IX.,  and  formerly  Hralas- 1 
nador  of  France  at  the  Papal  courL  i 
From  fact.1  which  have  since  been 
brought  to  light,  it  appears  that  the 
count's  murder  had  been  determined 
on  fiilly  three  weeks  before  it  took 
^ace^  and  that  the  con^iHru  was  «>  I  ^ 
exleosive  that  upwards  of  900  piiTsi>na\  i 


e  h1o». 
rert    the 


No 


■or,  nor  was  any 
learcH  iimuc  lur  mm  by  the  police! 
and  the  worst  symptom  of  the  horrid 
business  was  the  general  sympathy 
roanilested  with  the  ruffian,  hardly 
etpresiing  horror^t  the  act, 


A  jus 


ying  I 


Then 
stbcH 


uitt 


necessary  to  describe  the  subsequent 
events,  or  lo  detail  their  influence  on 
tiie  public  policy  of  Europe.  Jt  u 
sufficient  to  add,  that  on  the  morning 
which  tolloff  ed  Comtt  liofiai')  murder, 
the  mob  besieged  the  pops  in  hia 
palace  of  the  Quirinal,  and,  after  n 
sanguinary  struggle  with  the  Swiss 
guard,  compelled  his  holiness  to  STBiit 

■■       ■   br 


Papal  States,'}    R.  27. —  Rome. — Palaces  {Cenci,  Chigi).     505 


themselves.  Eight  days  afterwards 
—•on  the  24th  November,  the  anni- 
versary of  the  foundation  of  the  papal 
sovereignty  by  Charlemagne  -^  the 
pope  fled  from  Rome  in  disguise,  and 
remained  at  Gaeta  for  more  than  18 
months,  a  voluntary  exile  from  his 
capital.  At  the  entrance  door  of  the 
palace  are  exhibited  copies  of  any 
papal  bulls  which  may  be  issued,  ad- 
monitions, interdicts,  excommunica- 
tions, and  notices  of  forthcoming  con- 
sistories. 

Palazzo  del  Cardinale  Arciprete^  a 
very  small  palace  near  the  Palace  of 
the  Inquisition.  It  is  remarkable 
only  as  having  been  built  towards  the 
close  of  the  last  century  by  Cardinal 
York,  who  occupied  it  as  his  official 
residence  while  archpresbyter  of  St. 
Peter's. 

Ptdazzo  Cenci,  —  There  are  two 
palaces  known  by  this  name  in  Rome, 
llie  first,  called  also  P.  Maccarani, 
is  situated  opposite  the  church  of  S. 
£u8tachio,  near  the  Pantheon :  it  was 
built  in  1526  from  the  designs  of 
Giulio  Romano,  and  is  remarkable 
for  its  fine  architecture,  llie  second 
Cenci  Palace,  the  ancient  residence  of 
the  family,  stands  partly  on  the  site 
of  the  Theatre  of  Balbus  (p.  S37.), 
near  the  gate  of  the  Ghetto,  and  is 
probably  built  with  materials  taken 
from  its  ruins.  The  piazza  in  front 
of  the  palace  is  called  indifferently 
the  Piazza  Cenci  and  the  Piazza  Giu- 
dia.  Adjoining  the  palace  is  the 
little  church  of  S.  Tommaso  a*  Cenci, 
founded  in  1 1  IS  by  Cencio,  bishop  of 
Sabina,  and  granted  by  Julius  II.  to 
Kocco  Cencio,  whose  descendant,  the 
notorious  Count  Francesco,  rebuilt  it 
in  1 575,  no  doubt  as  one  of  the  com- 
pulsory means  of  purchasing  pardon 
for  his  atrocities.  'Vhe  palace,  an 
immense  and  gloomy  pile  of  massive 
architecture,  was  for  many  years  de- 
serted and  Icfl  without  doors  or  win- 
dows or  any  sign  of  human  habita- 
tion, to  tell,  as  forcibly  as  a  building 
could  tell,  the  record  of  crime:  it 
flcemed  to  have  been  stricken  with  the 
curse  of  which  Beatrice  Cenci  was 

On  A  fi. 


the  victim.  Within  the  last  few 
years,  however,  it  has  been  made  ha- 
bitable, and  a  part  of  it  is  occupied  as 
a  studio  by  the  German  painter  Over- 
beck.  Shelley  notices  the  court  sup- 
ported by  granite  columns,  and  adorned 
with  antique  friezes  of  fine  workman- 
ship, and  built  up  according  to  the 
ancient  Italian  fashion  with  balcony, 
over  balcony  of  open  work.  He  was 
particularly  struck  with  one  of  the 
gates,  formed  of  immense  stones,  and 
leading  through  a  dark  and  lofty  pas- 
sage opening  into  gloomy  subterra- 
nean chambers.  Its  position  in  the 
most  obscure  quarter  of  Rome,  and 
its  gloomy  aspect,  are  perfectly  in 
accordance  with  the  tragedy  which 
has  given  such  terrible  interest  to  the 
Cenci  family.  The  castle  of  Petrella, 
the  scene  of  the  catastrophe,  is  de- 
scribed in  the  Handbook  for  Southern 
Italy. 

Palazzo  Chh/if  built  in  1 526  from 
the  designs  of  Giacoroo  della  Porta, 
and  completed  by  Carlo  Maderno. 
In  one  of  the  antechambers  are  the 
Skull  and  the  Sleeping  Child,  sculp- 
tured in  white  marble  by  Bernini,  as 
emblems  of  life  and  death.  In  the  saloon 
are  three  ancient  statues:  a  Venus, 
in  Parian  marble,  with  a  Greek  in- 
scription; Mercury  with  the  cadu- 
ceus ;  and  an  Apollo,  in  Parian  mar- 
ble, supposed  to  be  of  the  time  of 
Hadrian.  The  pictures  are  hung  in  the 
apartments  occupied  by  the  Sardinian 
ambassador,  and  are  consequently  not 
shown  to  the  public.  Among  them 
the  following  may  be  noticed.  I.-— 
Gnercino,  St.  Francis. — Guido.  St, 
Cecilia ;  a  Nativity.  —  Caravaggio, 
St.  John  the  Baptist  drinking  at  a 
spring.  II.  —  Pietro  da  Cortona.  A 
Guardian  Angel.  —  Guercino.  Christ 
at  the  column.  —  Agostino  Caracci.  A 
dead  Christ— S'a/ra/or  liosa,  A  satyr 
disputing  with  a  philosopher,  who  Is 
said  to  be  a  portrait  of  Salvator  him- 
self.—  Titian,  Two  portraits — Spag- 
noletto,  A  Magdalen.  III. — Andrea 
Sacehi,  Sketch  for  the  picture  of  S. 
Romualdo,  in  the  Yatlcau%  «^  ^vo\.\ 
the   Blessed  'Betww^o  '^^^oxsvsk   ^^^ 


1. 97.— nOMu— fWMM  (Ct»dimp»f>ef,  •OiMhe^'^ 


.   KcU 


icliv 


mi 


rlollM  by  Ginlio  linmisne.  Bttnim, 
'  a  SkiwAi,  &e.  Tba  Lilirarj/  U 
wit  inlvrening  part  at  Ihe  po- 
_  It  wu  rounded  by  Aleinnder 
I  Tli.,  UiJ  U  rich  ia  MSS.  of  grt-ot 
inlcmt  ■Dd  value.  Among  Iheau  are 
Uiu  Chroniclci  of  St.  Benedict  and 
St.  AndcciT,  an  iaedittd  Clitomcle  of 
the  Monuury  of  Manle  SoTiicte,  a 
oopy  uf  DionjiiuB  of  Halicainawus ; 
of  the  9th  century,  a  Daniel  of  the  | 
Scptuaginl  Tcrtioo,  an  illuminiiled 
Mlmd  of  1450,  a  folio  volume  ofi 
Fr«noh  sod  P'lemijh  (ruiid,  coiiCaio- 
ing  nuiiettea  and  maiHH,  dated  14!K),  ■ 
Itller  of  Henry  VIII.  lo  the  Count 


Palati 


mercy  i»  Luther,  several  inedited 
letters  of  MelaacthoD,  some  sonnets  of 
Tbuo,  twenty  VDlumes  of  original 
documents  relating  to  the  treaty  of 
Westphalia,  and  an  immense  collee- 
tion  of  inedited  and  almost  unknown 
materials  for  the  literary  and  political 
hiilory  of  £urope.  The  celebrated 
antiquarv,  the  Abate  Fe.i,  was  the 
librarian'  of  the  Cliigi  Palace  for 
many  years  prior  to  hia  death  in  IBSS. 

Palaiio  Ckciaporci,  nearly  opposite 
the  P.  NiecDiini,  and  not  tsi  diBlsnt 
from  the  Poute  di  S.  Angelo,  is  re- ' 
markable  for  its  fine  architectiire  by 
Giulio  Romano.  It  waa  built  from 
the  designs  of  that  great  artist  in 
1526. 

PiJaiio  (Vamuf,  begun  by  Martin 
V.  in  the  lith  century,  completed 
and  embelliibed  in  later  Umes  by 
nenibers    of   this    princely 


femily._ 


\Sth  0 


It  1i>t. 


inhabited  by  Pope  Julius  IL  and  hy 
Cardinal  Borromoo.  The  picture 
gallery  is  the  finest  hall  in  Home,  up- 
wards of  1 50  feet  in  lenglh.andadomed 
at  each  end  irith  vestibules  separated 
from  the  gsljery  by  eolutnnn  and  pilas- 
ters of  giallo  amlcoi  the  collection 
dcTives  its  chief  interest  from  the  wo- 
ir.^TOas   magiiiGoent  family  jturtiaiU. 


portraiti  attributed  lo  Tillar 
called  Lutlivr  and  Calvin  t  it  is  very 
doulitliil  whether  tbey  are  both  the 
norks  of  Titian,  and  still  man!  so 
whether  they  are  portraits  of  tha 
great  reformers.  A  portrait  bj  Aob 
Vcroatte  is  more  authentic.  —  ABuniL 
The  Rope  of  Europe. — AHKibakCa- 
racd.  A  peasant. —  Tinloretto.  Portrail 
of  a  person  playing  oD  the  cymbals. 

—  Gucrcino.      Tobias;  two  Apostlec 

—  Giiido.  St.  John.  II. —  FaltMb 
Landscapes  by  Claiidt,  Oriirnttt,  Snu- 
ghd.  Paid  Brin.  Pmmn,  &c.  III^ 
The  Gnat  Hail.  On  the  eeiling  a 
targe  iVcBco  representing  the  battle  of 
LcpantD,  which  procured  for  one  of 
tbe  Colonna  princes  Ihe  honour  of  a 

I  modem  triumph  in  tbe  Capitfd, — • 
^  DoiHeniMno,  Adam  and  Eve. — Gior- 
,  gloHf,  Four  portraits  in  one  ;  Portnit 
I  of  GiacomoSciarra  Colonna. — Oaide, 
SI.  Francis ;  St.  Margaret ;  St.  Se- 
bastian.—  Guacnto.  "Die  Martyrdoia 
of  St.  Agnes ;  the  Victory  of  Darid. 

—  Anitibak  CanuxL  The  Magdakn, 
^Giovaimi  BtlSnL  Holy  Family  with 
St.  Pclcr— Tiiioo.  Holy  Family.— 
J}ommito  OhiThndajo.     Hape   of  the 

Sabineg Aadna    dtl    Sarin.     HcJy 

Family. — Sabmim  Bota.  St.  John  in 
the  desert  —  Rubma.  Assumption  of 
the  Virgin.  _N.  ftmuin.  Shepherds 
sleeping.       Numerous    portruts    bj 

'lIlioH,  Vandyit,  TlutarfHo,  and  Jlu- 
bmi.  Among  tlie  sculptures  in  the 
gallery  are  statues  of  Trajan,  Gemu- 
nicus.  Flora,  DiaiM,  and  Venus  Av 
dyomene.  In  one  of  the  room*  a 
small  spiral  column  of  rosso  antico  is 
shown  as  the  famous  Coltama  BdStt 
which  stood  before  the  Temple  of  Bd- 
lona.  Tbe  absurdity  oflhe  misnomer 
is  too  Apparent  to  require  any  eoiB- 
ment;  the  size  and  the  material  IB 
sufficient  lo  dispcw. 
to  the  honour  of  Ibat  repiiblii 
lumn  front  which  tbe  lonsul  tbrew 
the  arrow  as  a  dedan 
Tlie  gardens  behind  the  , 
up  the  slope  of  the  Quirinal,  and  are 
remarkable  for  their  pines,  their  pli 

1  (iBgroevA*  Q?  i^e  wi^asei  Ttm^le  of 


andT,^  1 

■ir  plan-  I 


Papal  States."]  R.  27 » — Rome. — Palaces  (Consulta^Corsini).  507  J^ 


the  pines,  whose  size  was  so  extra- 
ordinary as  to  procure  it  the  name  of 
**  the  Colonna  Pine,"  was  broken  by  [ 
the  tempest  which  destroyed  Tasso's 
oak,  in  1842. 

Palazzo  ddla  Constdta,  on  Monte 
Cayallo,  built  by  Clement  XI  I.,  from 
the  designs  of  Fuga,  in  1730.  At- 
tached to  it  are  barracks  for  the  light 
horse  and  cuirassiers.  The  palace  is 
considered  one  of  Fuga's  most  ingeni- 
ous works. 

Palazzo  degli  Convertitij  called  also 
the  P.  Spinola,  and  the  P.  degli  Ere- 
tici  Ravveduti,  near  the  Piazza  of  St. 
Peter's,    built   from    the   designs  of 
Bramante  and  Baldassare  Peruzzi  to- 
wards the  end  of  the  15th  century, 
and  memorable  as  the  scene  of  the 
death  of  Raphael.     The   illustrious 
painter,  according  to  recent  authori- 
ties, had  been  hastily  summoned  to 
the   Vatican   while   working   at   the 
I^arnesina,  and  in  his  anxiety  not  to 
lose  time  had  overheated  himself  by 
running.     On  his  arrival  he  stood  in 
the  great  hall  discussing  the  works  of 
St.  Peter's,  until  he  was  seized  with  a 
sudden  chill,  which  induced  a  rapid 
and  mortal  fever.     He  was  carried  to 
his  palace,  where,  surrounded  by  his 
fiivouritc  pupils,  he  breathed  his  last 
on  Good  Friday,  1520,  being  the  7th 
of  April,  the  day  on  which  he  had 
attained  his  thirty-seventh  year.     Hti 
death  was  regarded  as  a  public  cala- 
mity, for  his  gentle  spirit  had  won  all 
hearts.      It  appeared,   says   Bembo, 
as  if  a  veil  had  been  spread  over  the 
whole   of  nature :  the  pope  himself 
wept  bitterly,  and    Baldassare    Cas- 
tiglionc  expressed  the  feelings  of  all 
the  artists  in  liome,  when  he  wrote  to 
his  mother  some   months   after   the 
event,  that  he  could  not  fancy  him- 
self in  Home,  because  his  poor  dear 
Ilaphnel  was  no  longer  there :  —  **  Ma 
Tion  mi  pare  esser  a  BumUf  perchi  non 
vi    e  piii  il  mio   poveretto    Jtaffaello," 
The  body  lay  in  state  in  front  of  the 
untinished  picture  of  the  Transfigura- 
tion,  a   spectacle   which   all   writers 
have  descril>ed  as  the  most  touching 
episode  in  the  history  of  art.     It  was 


interred  in  the  Pantheon  in  tlie  pre^ 
sence  of  the  most  distinguished  per- 
sonages in  Rome.  An  interesting 
letter  of  Marc  Antonio  Michiel, 
written  four  days  after  Raphael's 
death,  tells  us  that  he  bequeathed  this 
palace,  which  he  had  purchased  from 
Bramante  for  SOOO  ducats,  to  Cardi- 
nal Santa  Maria  in  Portico  (  Bibiena). 
It  afterwards  passed  into  the  posses- 
sion of  Cardinal  Girolamo  Gastaldi, 
who  converted  it  into  a  college  ifor 
converted  heretics.  . 

Palazzo  Corsini  (open  from  10  to  ^ 
2),  in  the  Trastevere,  built  by  the 
Riario  family,  enlarged  and  altered 
into  its  present  form  by  Clement  XII., 
in  1729,  from  the  designs  of  Fuga. 
It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  palaces  in 
Rome.  In  the  17th  century  it  was 
the  residence  of  Christina,  Queen  of 
Sweden,  who  died  here  in  1689.  A 
double  staircase  of  imposing  architec- 
ture leads  to.  the  gallery,  which  con- 
tains some  fine  pictures,  with  a  large 
number  of  inferior  works.  I.  Ante^ 
room,  — >  A  sarcophagus  of  white  mar- 
ble, found  at  Porto  d'Anzo,  orna- 
mented with  bas-reliefs  of  tritons  and 
nereids.  III.  GaUery,^- Rubens,  A 
portrait.^- Crtierct no.  The  £cce  Homo, 
one  of  his  most  expressive  works.  — 
Vandyke,  Christ  before  Pilate.  —  Cb- 
ravaggio,  St.  Peter;  Madonna  and 
Child. — Baroccio,  Holy  Family. — 
Vandyke.  Madonna  and  Child.  —  SaU 
vator  Rosa.  Two  landscapes.— Zt/ca 
Cranach,  Luther  and  his  wife. —  Fra 
Bartolommeo.  Holy  Family. — Albani, 
Venus  at  her  toilet.  —  Garofalo.  Holy 

Family Raphael,  Portrait  of  Julius 

n.—  'IHtian,  Philip  II.     At  the  end 
,  of  this  room  is  a  very  beautiful  an- 
tique curule  chair  of  Greek  marble, 
I  with  bas-reliefs,  found  near  the  La- 
teran,  and  supposed  by  many  archs- 
ologists  to  be  Etruscan.     I V.  Andrea 
'  del  Sarto.     Madonna   and    Child.  — 
Albert  Durer,  A  rabbit. —  Baphael(?), 

Portrait  of  Paul  III Giulio   Bo* 

maiio(?).  Tlic  Fornarina.—  Titian(?). 
St.  Jerome, -^Guercino.  St.  John. — 
Bassano.  Holy  Family.  —  Guido, 
CrucitixioiY  oC  St.  ^<i\.«c.— U>i3bw.%. 


>WM»   u.e?.— BOMB.— 7W«w(0>ito?irf/,J?.ftMyfft").  tSert.!. 


Mimlinjt-piMc  — Rn/rfc.  TIic  Ko. 
l..-uding  of  St.  John.  — /»""'»irff<.o. 
Pi>rlnit  of  Cirilinil  BirlHiini.  — 
lUirHad  Awirbif)-  A  imnll  MaHieof 
CliriM.  V,  Carlo  Dolci.  The  Kocc 
Homo.  —  Gaida.    The  Ecce  Homo. 

of  SamarlL  ~  Ghtrordo  lUla  KM: 
'Vbt  Nalitil]'.  V[.  Zionorrfo  da 
I7mc<.  a  Itftniile  porlnliL  —  l^'bon. 
The  childrrnof  Charle.  V.—ItapliaeL 
I'ortnut  of  C«r(linil  CMliglioiic — 
JiamrnhhiHo.  I'nrtiait  of  ■  cBrdinil. 
. — r^fdi^Nri.  I'orlrail  of  a  pope  (In- 
nocem  X.J).—j1Ibirt  Durrr.  Portrait 
of  ■  cardinal.  — TTifDrcHo.    A  duge  of 

portrwu  of  unknown  pcnonigia,  bv 
Giorpioiu,  l^andflie,  Itubmt,  HolUin, 
FMIon-o.  &C.  VII.  M<aiBo.  Mi- 
donnn  and  Child.  —  Cnrngpia.  A 
umal I  picture  of  ChriaL  — C.  'P-muin. 
Ijiadscape.  —  Cura/uJu.  Chriit  hear. 
inR  the  Crota.  —  Lnduviai  Carurci, 
Martyrdom  of  St.    Bartholomew,— 

JJoBKHirSino.  Aportrail Tiliani?). 

The  Woronn  taken  in  Adultery.  — 
Hubnu.  St.  Sebastian. —Gir'/jo  llo- 
tmino.  The  Judgment  of  Pari..  VUI. 
Ladovlco  Caracci.  A  Pieti.  -^  Cara- 
vaggio.  St.  John  the  Bapiiit  —  G. 
FoHitin.  X.andscapea.  —  DnmeiiichiiHi. 
Sunnna.  I X.  Lodamce  Canicei.  Two 
coloual   heads Titian  (?).    Venus. 

—  Salpalur  nolo.  Prometheus.  — JV. 
PuNirifi.  Landscapes;  a  Holv  Pamlly. 

—  Stbaaiaao  dd  Piomho.  Two  oral 
picture*  of  Angelf.  Tlie 
Library,  founded  by  ClemB 
in  the  beginning  of  the  lut 
contains  U]ivar£  of  I  SCO  MSS.,  s 
■utfgraph  pnpeia  of  Christina  of  S 
den,  a  vnluable  collection  of  pri 
and  a  great  number  of  cinqiie-ei 
editions.       It   oceupiea    eight    1i 


t  XII. 


,  and  i> 


on  appticBlioD.  Beliinil  the  palac 
the  pretty  ViBa  Corti'i,  pUced  on 
crcet  of  the  Janioulum.  ITie  v 
whiah  it  commands  presents  n  Pi 
i    panorama    of    Itome;      Vi 


celeh 


a  ted 


prim 


Paluzxo    Cotlaguli,    celKliratefl   S 
i  superb  ceilings   painted  in  frc; 


by  Domciiichiiio,  GuercTno,  Albini, 
anil  other  eminent  artists  of  their 
time.  Tlwre  are  lii  ceilings,  iD  the 
liillowing  order:  —  I.  jtlbinii.  Her. 
eiilea  irounding  the  Centaur.  U. 
DammiMno.  Apolloin  his  cari  Time 
iliwoiering  Truth,  &e.  III.  Gim- 
Was.  Itinaldosnd  Annida.  IV.  Car. 
d'/trpiite.  Juno  nursing  Hercule*; 
VcnuB  vith  Cupids  and  other  divini- 
ties. V.  Jjinfranco,  Justice  emhrac- 
itig  Peace.  VI.  Homandk'.  Arion 
9a>ed  by  the  dulpliin. 

CiTia  hnoerititnin,  or  the  Falaitt 
Mia  Camrra  Apottalica.  an  imposing 
edifice  on  the  north  side  of  the  Monte 
Cilorio,  liegim  in  1G4S  by  Innocent 
X.  from  the  designa  of  Bernini,  and 
eomplcled  l>y  Innocent  XII.  fron 
the  designs  of  Carlo  Fontaoa.  Irira 
appropriated  by  the  latter  pontiff  s> 
the  seat  of  the  higher  courts  of  law, 
under  the  name  of  tlie  Curia  Innocen- 
tiana.  H  eonlaint  on  the  ground  floor 
the  offices  of  the  Notaries,  on  the  Gnt 
floor  tho.ie  of  the  Auditors  of  tlie  Ca- 
mera and  the  Segnalura,  and  the  (Snl 
Court  of  the  First  Instance;  on  the 
third  floor  the  apartments  of  the  CaF- 
dinnl  Chamberlain,  and  of  the  Trea- 
surer-General of  the  Pnpnl  Slatn. 
From  the  balcony  in  front  the  num- 
bers drawn  at  Ihe  government  lotte- 
ries are  announced  to  the  people. 
"Ihftuzo  Boria-PHmfili. — litis  im- 
menie  palace,  interesting  to  Englii 
travellers  tram  its  conneiion  with  Ihe 
illustrious  house  of  Talbot,  was  built 
at  TariouB  times  and  by  dilTerent  ar- 
chitects. The  side  facing  the  Corao 
ia  from  the  designs  of  Valvasori ;  IhBt 
facing  the  Collegio  Romano  was  de- 
signed by  Fietro  ita  Corlona,  the  ves- 
tibule beiug  added  by  Burromini; 
the  &[;ade  which  fronts  the  Piniza  di 
Veneiia  is  from  the  designs  of  Paolo 
Amali.  ThflGn/fayconuinemsnyei- 
cellcntworkB,withanumberaf  second- 
rate  mid  third-rate  pictures.  The 
Ante-room  has  a  ceiling  representing 
Noah's  Sacriiice,  by  Ficlro  da  Cnrlona. 
The  folloning  are  the  most  interest- 
ing works  ill  the  oolleetion  ! — Alban!. 
^  ^ttJAua  DT.i  lEftia*.,  Nymphs  nnd 
,'  \.Qve9.— Etii  Bortolumin™,  WA-j 'Ca.. 


Papal  States.']    r.  27. —  home. —  Palaces  (Falconieii).        509 


mily  with  two  angels.  —  Giovanni 
£ellini»  Madonna  and  Child. — Bor- 
gognone.  Two  battle  pieces. — Both, 
Two  small  landscapes.  ^-  Breughel, 
The  four  elements. — Paul  BrilL  Land- 
scape, with  figures,  by  Bcutano.  —  Ca' 
ravaggio,  Hagar  and  Ishmael ;  the 
Magdalen.— ^nnt&o/e  Caracci,  Su- 
sanna ;  a  Fieta ;  the  Flight  into 
Egypt ;  the  Visitation ;  the  Assump- 
tion of  the  Virgin  ;  St  Francis  with 
angels;  the  Entombment  of  Christ; 
the  Nativity ;  the  Adoration  of  the 
Magi ;  and  a  'Magdalen.'-^ Lodovico 
Caracci,  Holy  Family ;  the  Ecce  Ho- 
mo ;  Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints. 
mm0- Claude.  The  Repose  in  Egypt,  a  ce- 
lebrated picture,  with  figures,  by  Ft' 
lippo  Lauri ;  two  small  landscapes ; 
two  very  beautiful  and  celebrated 
landscapes;  the  Molino,  and  the 
Temple  of  Apollo.  —  Domenichino, 
Several  landscapes. — Albert  Durer,  or 
Quentyn    Matsys  (?).     Four    Misers. 

—  Garofalo.  Holy  Family;  the  Visita- 
tion.— G/ierardo  del/a  Nolle,  Lot  and 
his  Daughters.  —  Guercino.  Endy- 
mion  ;  Samson ;  the  Prodigal  Son ; 
St.  Agnes ;  the  Magdalen  ;  Death  of 
Tancred ;  St.  John —  Guide.  Madonna 
adoring  the  sleeping  Saviour. — Hot- 
bein.  A  female  portrait. — Lionardo 
da  Vinci  (?).  Portrait  of  Queen  Jo- 
anna of  Aragon,  probably  by  one  of 
Lionardo*s  scholars.  —  Andrea  Man- 
tegna, — Christ  and  St.  Veronica. — Mun 
riilo,  A  Magdalen. — Painter  Unknown, 
Portrait  of  Oliropia  Maidalchini  Pam- 
fili,  the  intriguing  princess  of  Viter- 
bo  (p.  S227. ). —  G,  Poustin,  Landscape ; 
a  series  of  immense  landscapes  in  dis- 
temper (not  shown),  and  some  beau- 
tiful landscapes  in  oil,  by  the  same ; 
among  these  is  the  well-known  Ponte 
Lucano,  on  the  road  to  Tivoli.— iV. 
Pousgin,  Copy  of  the  Nozte  Aldo- 
brandiui,  in  some  respects  different 
from  the  famous  painting  in  the  Vati- 
can, which  has  been  lately  cleared  of 
the  numerous  restorations  it  Iiad  un- 
dergone when  this  copy  was  executed. 

—  RapkaeL  Portraiu  of  Bartolo  and 
Ualdo,  finely  coloured,  an  undoubted 
work  of  tbis^groMt  matter.— i}«6eiu. 


His  Confessor  ;  portrait  of  his  wife ; 
Diana  and  Endymion. — Andrea  del 
Sarto,  Holy  Family ;  portrait  of 
Machiavelli ;  another  Holy  Family.— 
Sahator  Rota,  The  well-known  land- 
scape called  tlie  Belisario ;  Death  of 
Abel.  "-^SehoMtiano  del  Piomho,  A 
splendid  portrait  of  Andrea  Doria 
(now  in  the  private  apartments  of  the 
prince). — Sassoferrato.  Madonna.— 
Teniera,  The  country  Marriage-feast. 
—  Tintoretto,  Portrait  of  the  Duke  of 
Ferrara. —  Titian,  Female  portrait, 
probably  his  mistress;  portrait  of 
an  old  man;  the  Holy  Family  and 
St.  Catherine  ;  the  Sacrifice  of  Isaac; 
portrait  of  Jansenius;  the  Magda- 
len ;  and  several  portraits  of  unknown 
persons. —  Vandyke,  A  female  por- 
trait ;  portrait  of  a  widow. —  Giorgio 
Vasaru  Deposition  firom  the  Cross.—- 
Velasquez,  Portrait  of  Innocent  X. 
— Paolo  Veronese.  Semirarais.  Four 
rooms,  containing  landscapes  by  Ori- 
zonte^  Vanvitdli,  Suloator  Rosa,  G, 
Poustith  &c. 

Palazzo  Falconieri,  built  in  the 
1 7th  century  from  the  designs  of  Dor- 
romini.  This  palace  was  formerly 
celebrated  for  tlie  magnificent  gallery 
of  Cardinal  Fesch,  by  whom  it  was 
occupied  for  many  years  prior  to  his 
death  in  1839.  It  was  afterwards 
the  residence  of  Cardinal  Mezzofanti, 
the  celebrated  linguist,  whose  extra- 
ordinary power  of  acquiring  languages 
is  commemorated  by  Lord  Byron, 
and  of  whose  life  some  account  is 
given  in  our  description  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Bologna. 

Palazzo  Famese,  the  property  of 
the  King  of  Naples,  begun  by  Paul 
III.,  while  Cardinal  Farnese,  from 
the  designs  of  Antonio  &mgallo,  and 
finished  by  his  nephew,  Cardinal  Ales- 
sandro  Farnese,  under  the  direction 
of  Michael  Angelo  (1526).  The  fa- 
9ade  of  the  Strada  Julia  and  the  gal- 
lery were  added  by  Giaoomo  della 
Porta.  The  architecture  of  this  pa- 
lace is  beyond  all  doubt  the  finest  in 
Home ;  but  it  loses  much  of  its  inte- 
rest when  ve  kncm  ^}a^x  >^\^\av\ty«G)M 
block«  dt  tc«t«c^«  <A  WtitfJci  W  >^ 


Roimix 


-  HOMK.  —  Pfitaeei  (Fdr 


1  plundcnd  from  tlie 
DjuTwhoM  ruin.  »}■  Gibbon, 
R  tirplwwt  pr  I'aul  III.  are  ihe , 
J  ■grniti,  mJ  rrrry  Inveller  who 
>  th*  Funcs«  [uIkw  msy  cune 
wilego  ■nii  luiurj  of  Iheae  up- 
1  prltKV*."  Tlie  piaiu,  adorned 
h  twD  lundsamtf  fountuiu,  a  m- 
gcd  in  nich  m  muiner  thit  the  pa- 
i*  wen  to  great  ailTanuge.  The 
'  Jnoflhe  rountains,  17  feet  in 
I,  ■nd4reelindepth,  wufouad 
«  Salhi  of  CaracalU.  On  entei 
t  immense  fiiao  of  the 
c^trBTCrtinp.  nnd  the  prevision 
Ibej  are  filled,  never  Tail 
Mtenlion.       Nothing   can 

aement  of  the  court,  which 
bud  doi»n  by  Vignola  on  the  ori- 
of  Sangnllo,  i«  worihy  of 
beat  timw  of  onoieat  architecture. 
(lie  upper  part  of  the  building. , 
the  imponng  eotablalure,  are  by 

the  celebrated  sarcopliagus  of  Parian  I 
nurble.  bund  in  the  tomb  of  Cscilia  ' 
Metella.  During  the  siege  of  Home  i 
1M9,  the  palace  was  struck  by 
ihot*  from  tbc  breaching  batle- 
of  the  French  1  its  cornice  and 
somewhat  injured,  but  no 
lagewu  done  la  the  interiur.  Jn 
lar  times,  tlie  palace  was  reinnrk- 
Bble  for  its  fine  collection  of  statueE, 
bat  all  that  were  worth  romoving 
iMve  been  bciiI  to  Naples.      The  fres- 


neui ;  Jupiter  and  Juno  ;  GalaMa, 
with  triton>  and  nymphs  ;  Apolto 
flaying  Manyts;  Birreiis  carrying  eff 
Orytbiai  recall  of  Eurrdici  " 
the  Bull ;    "* 


Her 


lole;    Auroi 


and  Cephalua  in  a  car  ;  Ancbius  md 
Venus;  Cupid  binding  a  Satyr;  Sa- 
lamii  and  Hermaphriiditus ;  Syrini 
and  Pan  ;  Lcander  guided  bv  Cupid 
Bwimmbg  to  meet  Uero^  The  eigbl 
amall  Bubjecta'tner  the  niches  and 
windows  are  by  Domailclntio  i  ititf 
repreient  Arion  on hia dolphin;  Pro- 
mellieus;  Hercnlei  killing  IhedragtU 


eHesi 


is  delive 


HP  • 
^"ilkh. 


n 


than  eight  ycart 


with  1 


n of  500  gold  crowns  (ISO/. )  The 
oentre-piece  represents  tlio  Triumph 
of  Bacchus  and  Ariadne,  attended  by 
SmxM,  satyrs,  and  bacchantes,  and 
preceded  by  Silenus  on  an  aaa.  Tlio 
other  Bubjeots  are,  —  Pan  bringing 
goatskins  to  Diana ;  Mercury  pre- 
aentiug  the  apple  to  Paris;  Apollu 
carrying  off  Hyaeinth ;  the  Eagit 
nnd  Gsnjmedo ;  Polyphemus  play- 
ing  on  the  Pipw;  the  puiiuit  at\ 
Acts;  Perseus  and  Andromeda  (.by 
(^o/tii)  ;  contest  of  Perseus  and  PhV- 


I  Prometheus  i  the  foil  of  Ira: 
I  listo  in  the  balh  j  tlie  same  nymph 
I  changed  into  a  besr;  Apollo 
]  ing  the  lyre  from  Mercury.  ] 
'  ther  opailment,  called  the  Cdtnim, 
I  Tery  rarely  shown,  are  other  fiaeoa 
I  by  Annlbaia  Caraed;  on  the  roof  is  an 
'  oil-painiing  of  Hercules  on  the  crow- 
I  road  (between  Vice  and  Virtue),  t 
copy  of  a  picture  by  this  mailer, 
'  whicli  has  been  removed  to  Naplea. 
The  frescoes  are, — Hercules  support- 
ing the  glohe;  Anapius  and  Ampbi 
nome  saving  their  parents  trma  m 
eruption  of  .Xtnai  UlysseaandCine; 
Ulynes  passing  the  island  of  the  Sy- 
rens ;  I^rseus  and  Medusa  ;  Her- 
cules and  the  NeiDtean  Lion.  Other 
rooms  are  painted  in  fresco  by  E 
da  Volterra,  Taddto  Zmcari,  . 
cetea  SahiaiL,  and  Vatari,  but  Ihey 
are  not  shown  to  the  public.  " 
prindpal  subjects  represent  the  sign- 
ing of  the  treaty  of  peace  betweftn 
Charles  V.  and  Francis  I.,  and  Hie 
dispute  between  Luther  and  the  papal 
nuncio  Cardinal  Cajetan.  The  co- 
lossal group  of  Alcanindia  Farnew, 
crowned  by  Victory,  with  the  Scheldt 
and  Flanders  at  his  feel,  the  work  of 
Mosehino.  was  sculptured  out  oF  a 
column  taken  tram  the  Basilica  of 
ConsUntini 

ITje  Fantai»a,  also  the  properly 
of  the  King  of  Naples,  built  in  1506, 
byAgoatinoChigi.tbe  famous  banker 
&  t\iB   \6\h  ceitt.™^,  fVom   the  de- 

ceUbratri.  Sot  'rt»  Eiescoes  Xi-j  Hagha* 


Papal  StcUesJ]    r.  27. — home. — Palaces  (Famesina).  511 


and  his  scholars,  Giulio  Romanoj 
Francesco  Penni,  Giovanni  da  Vdine, 
and  Raffaele  dd  Colle,  The  whole 
were  repainted  and  much  injured  by 
Carlo  Maratta,  so  that  although  we 
still  have  the  designs  of  the  illustrious 
master,  the  original  colouring  has 
disappeared.  I.  ~-  The  large  hall 
facing  the  garden ;  the  ceiling  repre- 
sents the  story  of  Psyche,  drawn  by 
JRapkael,  and  mostly  executed  by  his 
scholars.  1 .  Venus  showing  Psyche 
to  Cupid.  2.  Cupid  showing  Psyche 
to  the  three  Graces ;  the  nearest  of 
the  Graces  is  supposed  to  be  by 
RaphaePs  own  hand.  3.  Juno  aAd 
Ceres  interceding  with  Venus  in 
behalf  of  Psyche.  4.  Venus  in  her 
car  hastening  to  claim  the  interfer- 
ence of  Jupiter.  5.  Venus  before 
Jupiter  praying  for  vengeance  against 
Psyche.  6.  Mercury  sent  to  publish 
the  order  of  Jupiter.  7.  Psyche, 
borne  by  genii,  with  the  vase  of  paint 
given  by  Proserpine  to  appease  the 
anger  of  Venus.  8.  Psyche  present- 
ing the  vase  to  Venus.  9.  Cupid 
complaining  to  Jupiter  of  the  cruelty 
of  his  mother,  one  of  the  most  grace- 
ful compositions  of  the  series.  10. 
Mercury  carrying  Psyche  to  Olym- 
pus. On  the  flat  part  of  the  ceiling 
are  two  large  frescoes,  one  represent- 
ing the  judgment  of  the  gods  on  the 
appeal  of  Cupid ;  the  other,  the  mar- 
riage of  Cupid  and  Psyche.  In  the 
lunettes  are  graceful  figures  of  young 
Cupids,  with  the  attributes  of  dif- 
iercnt  divinities  who  have  acknow- 
ledged the  power  of  love.  II.  Room 
of  the  Galatea.  —  In  the  exquisite 
composition  from  which  this  room 
derives  its  name,  Galatea  is  repre- 
sented in  her  shell,  drawn  by  dol- 
phins, surrounded  by  tritons  and 
nymphs,  and  attended  by  genii  sport- 
ing in  the  air,  the  whole  character- 
ised by  a  grace  and  delicacy  of  feeling 
which  bespeak  the  master-hand.  With 
the  exception  of  the  group  on  the 
riglit  of  Galatea,  it  is  entirely  painted 
by  RaphaeL  The  frescoes  of  the  roof, 
representing  Diana  in  her  car,  and 
the  fabJe  oS  MeduiM,  are  by  Baldat* 


sare  Peruzzi,  It  is  said  that  when 
first  painted  the  effect  of  those  in 
chiaro-scuro  was  so  good,  that  Titian 
thought  they  were  ornaments  in  re- 
lief, and  desired  that  a  ladder  might 
be  brought,  in  order  that  he  might 
touch  them.  The  lunettes  were 
painted  by  Sebastiano  del  Piombo  soon 
after  his  arrival  in  Rome.  In  one  of 
them  is  a  colossal  head,  said  to  havebe^i 
sketched  in  charcoal  by  Michael  Angdo, 
Tradition  says  that  the  great  painter 
had  paid  a  visit  to  Daniele  da  Volterra, 
and  that  after  waiting  for  some  time 
to  no  purpose,  he  adopted  this  mode 
of  apprising  Dan iele  of  h is  visit.  III. 
In  the  upper  story  is  a  hall  with  ar- 
chitectural paintings,  by  Baldassare 
Pemzzi,  The  Forge  of  Vulcan,  and 
the  large  firieze,  are  attributed  to 
Giulio  Romano;  the  Marriage  of  Alex- 
ander and  Roxana,  and  the  Family  of 
Darius  at  the  feet  of  Alexander,  are 
graceful  works  of  Sodoma  (Gianan- 
tonio  Razzi).  The  Farnesina  Palace 
acquired  great  celebrity  during  the 
reign  of  Leo  X.  as  the  residence  of 
the  wealthy  banker,  Agostino  Cliigt. 
He  was  a  liberal  though  somewhat 
ostentatious  patron  of  literature  and 
the  arts,  whose  chief  pride  was  the 
exhibition  of  princely  magnificence 
not  only  as  the  Mecfenas  of  his  time, 
but  as  the  great  Amphitryon  of  Rome. 
The  first  Greek  book  printed  at  Rome, 
the  celebrated  Pindar  of  1515,  with 
the  scholia,  was  printed  in  his  palace 
by  the  learned  typographer  Zacharias 
Calliergus,  whom  Chigi  brought  from 
Venice,  and  maintained  under  his 
own  roof  during  the  progress  of  the 
work.  Ills  celebrated  entertainment 
to  Leo  X.,  the  cardinals,  and  the 
ambassadors,  in  1518,  was  the  most 
costly  banquet  of  modern  times.  Ti- 
zio,  who  was  present  on  the  occasion, 
tdls  us  that  the  price  of  three  fish 
served  up  at  the  banquet  amounted 
to  250  crowns ;  and  it  is  traditionally 
related  that  the  silver  plate  used  at 
the  different  courses  was  thrown  into 
the  Tiber,  by  Chigi's  orders,  as  it  was 
removed  ftota  table.  TVv^  ¥«rcks»IvcA. 
is  said  lo  V\a.\c  V>e«^  \i>i^X.  ^\«'^«w&?5 


n.  ?:.— « 


-Pahceg  {Firtme,  Vlrm/r)i. 


•laiza  Giuttiniaiii,  Iwgiiii  bj  Gio- 

i  FonlanumtSsaandcompli'ti^ 

B   ■Iterwardi    Iwcanw   the   pro-    bf  Ikirnnnini,  Tonnerlj  celcbntedfiir 

J  oTlh*  FarncH!  priaett,  and  hu   Us  licbcs  in  painting  and  Kulptun. 

w!(b  all  llicir  other  pawn- '  tt  is  built  on  a  portion  of  the  sit  of 

■  -       Nero'.   Balh»,  and  iU  muwum  «. 

tilUd  with  uitiijuitiea  found  upon  the 

■pot.     Bnt  all  these  treasures  bate 

been  dispersed,  and  nothing  nov  le- 

niain<  but  some  broken  statues  and  a 

few  indifferent    paintings,  nbieh   £o 

rot  repay  a  visit 

Palaa  of  Iht    hyuhUioT^    a 
edifice  built  by  Pope  Fins  V..  i 
n  the  (tylc  uf  llii|iliacl,  and  on  |  sort  of  c<dile-uie  behind  St.  Feter^ 
_MeiteTior  wull  are  wnie  reoiuos  or;  oiid  latterly  used  ai  t,  prison  fin-m 
■Itntinga  by  Baldauart  Ptmiti.  ,  ben  of  religious  socieliea,  or  for  per- 

^  Pahutoiii  F!rmi,aeat  the  I*alaHO  ,  sons  in  holy  orden  who  have  ooti^ed 
uilt  by  Vignola  about  |  their  vovs  or  the  duties  of  their  mi' 
_[pMO,  remarkable  only  fur  it9  architec- I  nistiy.  The  urchites  vhich  haw 
ture.  It  is  the  property  o*  the  Tuican  been  collected  in  this  Inililution 
goreriiment,  and  is  the  rendence  of  centuries  past  are  said  to  be  of  the 
the  consul  and  (be  pensioners  of  the  .  highest  interest,  including  tlie  details 
Florentine  Academy.  of    many  important    trisls,    such   ■> 

I^baio  Giraud,  in  the  Borgo  Nu-  Ilinse  of  Galileo  and  uf  Giordano 
OTO,  nov  the  properly  of  the  banker  I  Bruno,  the  correspondence  relating 
Torlonii,  whtueentcctainmentiti)  the  to  the  Refurmation  in  England,  and 
fnreign  Tiiitors,  always  given  in  this  j  a  scries  of  Decree!;,  nearly  complMr, 
palsee,  hare  nude  it  well  knovn  to  i  from  the  VEur  1549  down  to  oar  Dim 
fntellera  who  have  spent  a  season  in  times.  The  institution  lias  also  two 
Borne.  It  has,  however,  a  much  very  interesting  libraries,  one  of 
higher  iatt:rest  to  English  travellers  |  which  contains,  aniung  other  trea- 
ai  the  ancient  palace  of  the  kings  of  i  siires,  copies  uf  the  original  edttiuns 
England.  It  was  built  in  1306  by  |  of  the  works  of  the  Hebrmen  ' 
BrtmajOt,  fur  Cardinal  Adrian  da  I  the  liith  and  tTib  centuries,  now  bc- 
Coruelo,  vho  gave  itlo  Henry  VIII.,  come  extremely  rare.  The  Inquisi- 
and  for  anme  years  it  was  the  resi-  tion  wot  suppressed  by  tbe  Ronun 
denoe  of  the  English  ambassador.  At  I  Assembly  in  Feb.  1849,  but  waa  n 
the  Befuimaliun  it  was  presented  by  '  established  soon  after  the  French  ei 


ip^gi. 


:ted  i. 


:olleg 


Henry  Vill.  to  Cardiuj  C. 
ud  wax  suhiiei|uently  com 
an  ecclesiastical  college  by  li 
XII.  On  the  removal  of  the 
to  their  new  quarters  neat  the  Pont 
Sisto,  the  palace  was  purcha^  by  th 
Marquis  Giraud,  who  rebuilt  thi 
prinei]HiJ  doorway  as  we  now  see  it 
A  few  years  since  it  became  tlie  pro 
perly  of  the  Duke  of  Braceiano,  but 

it  from 


red  Ilomi 


.    La«cel/olll,   al 
e   Piaiza  Mavo 


,   built  h 


1  the  Torlonia  Palace  in 
riazza  di  Venszla.      It  was  the  resi.  ;  by  Giulio  Ito: 
denaeof  Catdiiia]  Wolsey  during  bis  ,  t\'e  V.  Cinsi 
U/lst  visit  to  llolnt.  \\iavB  Vmvi  b\ 


a  of  Pin 

lO,  and  CKterincil  one  of  the  i 
lacteriatic  worts  of  tliat  great  ar- 
cct.  It  has  latterly  f 
arkable  as  the  palace  of  the  Pbil- 
nonic  Academy. 
•alaizo  LaiUi,  close  to  the  Cenci 
1.  of  St.  Eus 


-kable  for 


rliuse  desigmfor 


Papal  States.']    n.  9^.'^noME*^^Palaees  (Mada^na,  etc.).    51 S 


built  in  1526,  and  contains  a  few  an- 
tique statues,  of  which  the  most  re- 
markable is  the  group  placed  on  the 
fountain  in  the  court,  and  supposed 
to  represent  Ino  nursing  Bacchus. 
It  was  formerly  remarkable  for  the 
great  picture  of  the  Calumny-  of 
Apelles,  painted  in  water  ijolours  by 
Federigo  Zuccari,  well  known  by  an 
eugntving,  and  described  by  Lanzi  as 
one  of  the  most  studied  of  Federigo*s 
works. 

Palazzo  Madcuna,  built  in  1642  by 
the  famous  Catherine  de'  Medici,  from 
the  designs  of  Paolo  Marucelli.  Like 
the  Giustiniani  Palace,  it  occupies  a 
portion  of  the  site  of  Nero's  Baths. 
It  contains  nothing  to  interest  the 
stranger,  and  is  remarkable  only  for 
its  architecture  and  as  being  the  offi- 
cial residence  of  the  governor  of 
Rome. 

l\Uazzo  Maasimiy  begun  in  1526 
from  the  designs  of  Baldassare  Pe- 
nizzi,  in  a  confined,  irregular  space 
which  would  have  defied  the  ingenuity 
of  any  but  a  first-rate  architect.  The 
fine  portico  of  six  Doric  columns,  the 
double  court  and  its  pretty  fountain, 
are  entitled  to  be  classed  among  the 
most  successful  efforts  of  modem  art, 
and  the  palace  is  considered  by  most 
critics  as  Baldassare*s  masterpiece.  It 
is  also  interesting  as  the  last  work  he 
ever  executed.  It  contains  the  cele- 
brated Discobolus,  in  Greek  marble, 
found  on  the  Esquiline,  near  the 
founuin  called  the  Trophies  of  Ma- 
rius.  This  noble  statue  is  supposed 
to  be  a  copy  of  the  famous  bronze 
statue  of  Myron :  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  perfect  pieces  of  an- 
tique sculpture  in  Rome.  The  back 
front  of  the  palace,  facing  the  Piazza 
Navona,  is  remarkable  for  its  frescoes 
in  grey  chiaro-scuro  by  Daniek  da 
Volterra, 

Palazzo  Matteif  built  on  the  site  of 
the  Circus  Flaminius  by  the  Duke 
Asdrubal  Mattel,  from  the  designs  of 
Carlo  Maderno  (1615).  It  is  a  fine 
building,  in  the  first  style  of  Maderno, 
and  may  perhaps  be  considered  as  his 
most  succetsfiU  work.     It  contains 


some  interesting  antiques,  among 
which  the  following  may  be  noticed : 
—  A  bas-relief  of  an  Egyptian  pro- 
cession engaged  in  sacrifice,  in  green 
basalt ;  two  marble  stools ;  some  re- 
liefs from  sarcophagi ;  statues  of  Mi- 
nerva, Jupiter,  Apollo,  &c.  ;  busts  of 
Lucius  Verus,  Antoninus  Pius,  Alex- 
ander the  Great,  M.  Aurelius,  Corn- 
modus,  and  other  fragments,  which  it 
would  be  tedious  to  enumerate  in 
detail.  The  gallery  of  pictures  con- 
tains a  few  interesting  works.  I.  The 
roof  of  the  first  room  is  painted  in 
fresco  by  RoncaUi,  The  principal 
pictures  are  Charles  I.  and  Charles  II. 
of  England,  by  Vandyke  ;  Sta.  Bona* 
Ventura,  by  Tintoretto;  four  land- 
scapes, by  Pnul  Brill,  II.  The  two 
Seasons,  by  Paul  Brill ;  Holy  Family, 
by  the  school  of  the  Caraeci ;  four 
pictures  of  dealers  in  fish  and  other 
eatables,  by  PaMtrotti,  III.  The  two 
Seasons,  by  Paul  Brill,  corresponding 
with  those  in  the  preceding  room. 
IV.  The  roof  painted  by  LanfroHco. 
The  Sacrifice  of  Isaac,  by  Guido.  V. 
The  gallery;  the  roof  painted  by 
Pietro  da  Cortona. — Lanfraneo.  The 
Sacrifice  of  Isaac.  —  Tempesta.  The 
Entry  of  Charles  V.  into  Bologna.— > 
Pietro  da  Cortona.  The  Nativity* 
VI.  The  roof  painted  in  chiaro-scuro^ 
by  JDomeniehino. 

Palazzo  Muti' SavorelK,  near  the 
church  of  the  SS.  Apostoli,  interest* 
ing  to  English  travellers  as  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Pretender  James  IIL 
for  many  years  previous  to  his  death. 
In  honour  of  the  residence  of  the 
reputed  king  of  Great  Britain,  it  is 
called  by  Vasi  a  **  Regio  palazzo.** 

Palazzo  NiccoHni,  nearly  opposite 
Giulio  Romano's  Cicciaporci  Palace» 
remarkable  for  its  fine  architecture  by 
Giacomo  della  PorU  (1526). 

Palazzo  Od€9oalchi,  formerly  the 
Chigi  Palace,  buUt  by  Cardinal  Fabio 
Cliigi  from  the  designs  of  Bernini, 
and  completed  from  those  of  Carlo 
Maderno :  the  facade  is  by  Bernini. 
It  is  the  residence  of  Prince  Pietro 
Odescalchi,  the  learned  president  of 
the  AtcVisoVoi^csX  Kcuivar)  q*1  Vax^a* 

I  5 


i 


■ftOPTBW^aBOMfe-^imwW  {OnHklt  fft.?^ 


f  the  Surioi 


Uucimi,  Inilll  ia  IS^G  bjr  BalHuwi 

,,rvai  on  tbt  ruiuof  the  Theatre 

rfUarcalliH.  It  UnioarkabUohicflT 

t  ItM  ■ntiquitii!*  fmind  among  the 

1  for    the   Tiiitigei  df 


which   a 


stUl 
scribed 


iMililr.     The 
Itp.  3^7. 

'•4  flalatto  ftimflii,  in  tlM  Piaiza  Na- 
tlw  left  of  111!  church  of  S. 
I,  tiuill  by  Innocent  \.  Irom 
ot  UiroUmo  Kainnldi,  in 
a  roof  or  the  guller;  is 
pttoled  in  flreseo,  liy  Pieiro  tiu  Coiioma, 
* 'Mprcaeiiliiig  IhcadtenlumorjlSDeai; 
Mticr  «h«vnber*  h»vo  frieia  by  Ra- 
mandli  will  Gtapar  fViiuitn.  The 
IMlace  in  remirkubl*  ai  the  recidence 
of  the  diuolute  Olimpia  Meidslchini 
}  Pitnlill,  wbow  sdicuturn  U  Viterbo 
e  been  noticed  at  p.  22". 

n  Am'/^cio,  the  pnpe's  palnse 
|«B  Munte  Carallo,   oae  of  the  finest 
'tuatioiiB  for  a  palace  in  Rome.    The 
e  wat  bc^n  bjr  Gte- 
r  Xlll.  in  1274,  rram  the deaigna 
■"      ■  '  .    Pnniio,    conliniied    by 


i   V.   0 


I  VIII 


Aomiileted  frvi 
menieo  Fontana.  It  wasenlurged  by 
Paul  V.  on  the  plan;  of  Carlo  Ma- 
derooi  and  lubseijueiilly  by  Innocent 
_X,  and  Clement  Xll.  frum  tlie  de- 
s  of  Bernini.  The  garden  was 
dby  Urb«n  VIII.  It  was  the 
irile  residence  o(  Pii»  VIL,  who 
■■bellished  and  reduced  it  to  its  pre- 


tae   new   popi 

people  from  the  balaoiiy  over  tlie 
jninoipal  entrance.  On  the  first  land- 
illg-^laee  of  the  principal  itairease  ia 
a  fragment  of  the  AscenBion,  a  very 
beautiful  fresco  by  Mduiia  da  Forii, 
originally  painted  on  the  ccilinir  of 
—the  choir  in  the  chtuch  of  tht 


oabing  tbe  feel 
.  tl«,  chapel, 
htled  up  in  Uie  *tyle  of  tlis 
Capttla  Sitliua,  tti|;1i  i 
fbrincd  on  the  great  tcstirals,  when 
the  pope  reiidei  on  the  Mor 
vbIIo.  In  the  adjuining  toonii  the 
fallowing  ara  the  most  Temarkable 
picture*  :  —  Gxtrdno.  14aul  and  iit- 
Tid.  —  JJonwHicAina.  TheEcc 
^Guido.  Madonna  and  Child.— 
Spognulitla.  St.  Jerome. . 
The  Ascenaioo;  the  Three  Kings. — 
Viaari.  llie  Stoning  of  Stephen. 
Schidaiie.  A  ikUdoDiw. — B 
A  battle-piece. —  Garofalo. 
Tbe  next  room  conlaini 
f^vm  Tkonealdiat't  celebrated  6 
of  the  Triumph*  of  Alexander. 
oth«s  from  FinalH'a  frieie  of  tha 
Triumphi  of  TtBJan,  sin 
those  of  Conslantine.  Tile  privati 
Chaptl  of  the  pope,  ndjoiaing  thii ' 
room,  is  celebrated  for  its  freSMet  by 
Guuh  and  jHbaai,  illustrating  Ilwi 
History  of  the  Virgin.  ■"■ 
piece  of  the  Anunnciotioii  ii  ooBlIt 
GHida't  moat  admired  works.  iMli 
rtwma  beyond  are  the  St.  Peter  al 
St.  Paul,  by  Fra  Barlobmrneo:  the  St. 
George,  by  pBrdenime ,-  and  tbe  Chri*^ 
disputing  in  the  Temple,  by  Car*-) 
vaiiffio.  The  gardens,  a  mile  in  mr* 
cuit,  are  siilT  and  foimal,  inapiteof' 
tbe  statues  and  fountains.  Amoi^ 
curioaities  iian  organ  played  by  w. 
The  caiino,  designed  by  Fuga.  is  de- 
comted  with  &escoes  by  OrucoWta 
Fompiui  Batumi,  and  Giaoaimi  Paala 

IVIonle  Cavalio,  and  the  Piazza  of  S. 
Maria  Maggiore,  by  the  latter  artist, 


,    inted, 
IE  magnificent  heads  belonging 

Sacristy    of    St. 


Hired. 

PaluMU  liospiglioa  (open  on  Wed- 
nesdays and  Saturdays^  built  ill  1&03, 
by  Cardinal  Soipione  Borghese,  from' 
-■--  ^ --nsof  Flamioio  Poniio,  oa« 
>f  the  site  of  tbe   Baibs  of 

I . — ne.      It   was  formerly  the 

I  pfltaco  of  Cardinal  Bentivoglici,  and. 
traa  purchased  from  him  by  Cardinal 
Mazarin,  who  enlarged  it  from  the  de- 
signs of  Carlo  Maderno.  It  remained 
.Eiotn.  V\«\,  t-cftc  ™i;A  \-.(W  the  teai- 


Papal  States."]    r.  27. — kome. — Palaces  (Pu^li,  etc.),      515 


dence  of  the  French  ambassadors,  and 
iinally  passed    into   the    Rospigliosi 
family.     The  casino  consbts  of  three 
apartments  on  the  garden  floor;  on 
the  roof  of  the  central  one  is  the  fa- 
mous Aurora  of  Guido,  one  of  the 
most   celebrated  frescoes  in  Rome; 
Aurora     is     represented     scattering 
flowers  before  the  chariot  of  the  sun, 
drawn  by  four  piebald  horses ;  seven 
female  figures  in  the  most  graceful 
action  surround  the  chariot,  and  typify 
the  advance  of  the  Hours.    The  com- 
position is  extremely  beautiful,  and 
the  colouring  brilliant  beyond  all  other 
examples  of  the  master.     In  the  same 
casino   are   the  frieze  by    Tempeata, 
landscapes  by  Paul  BriU,  a  statue  of 
Diana,  two  columns  of  rosso  antico^ 
remarkable  for  their  size,  and  a  bronze 
horse  found  in  the  ruins  of  the  Baths. 
In  the  adjoining  rooms  are,  —  I.   A 
beautiful  picture  of  Adam  and  Eve 
in   Paradise  after  the  Fall,  by  Dome- 
niehino  s  the    Death   of  Samson,   by 
Lodovico  Garacci ;  the  Head  of  Guido, 
by  himself;  a   Portrait  by   Vandyke  ; 
and  a  bust   of   Scipio    Africanus  in 
basalt,  said   to  have   been  found  at 
^internum.  —  II.   The    Triumph  of 
David,  by  Domenichuio ,-  thirteen  pic- 
tures of  the   Saviour  and  the  twelve 
Apostles,  by  Ilubens,  many  of  them 
copies;  the  Saviour  bearing  the  Cross, 
by  Daniele  da  VoiUrrai  the   Andro- 
meda, by  Guido  i  Diana  and  Endy- 
mion,  by  Albani  j   Pouisin,   by   him- 
self;  Lot's    Daughters,    by   Annihale 
Caracci ;  Job's  Friends,  by  Gttercino  ; 
the    Nativity,    by    Perugino  (?) ;    St. 
John  the  Evangelist,  by  Linnardo  da 
Vinci  (?) ;    a   portrait   of  Calvin,  by 
Titian ;    landscapes,    by    Claude,    N, 
Poussin,    Paid   BriU;    and   busts   of 
Cicero,    Seneca,  Hadrian,  Septimius 
Severus,   &c.      During   the   siege  of 
Home  in  1 849,  a  round  shot  from  the 
French    batteries   on    Monte   Mario, 
after    pjussing    close    to   the  famous 
equestrian  statuus  on  the  Monte  Cu- 
vallo,  struck   the  roof  of  the  second 
fftory  of  the  pavilion,  and  knocked  to 
))iece8  same  of  the  wood-work  ;  but 
no  mischief  was  done  to  the  works  of 


art  on  the  ground  floor,  although  every 
newspaper  in  Europe  in  those  excit- 
ing times,  startled  its  readers  with  the 
announcement  that  the  Aurora  of 
Guido  had  been  destroyed.  In  the 
garden  are  several  fragments  of  an- 
tique sculptures,  found  chiefly  among 
the  ruins  of  the  Baths,  and  probably 
not  older  than  the  time  of  Constan- 
tine. 

Palazzo  Riispcii,  in  the  Corso,  built 
in  ]  556  by  the  Rucellai  &mily,  from 
the  designs  of  Bartolommeo  Amma- 
nati.  The  staircase,  composed  of  115 
steps  of  white  marble,  built  by  Mar* 
tino  Lunghi  (1580)  for  Cardinal  Gae- 
tani,  is  considered  the  finest  con- 
struction of  thb  kind  in  Rome,  llie 
ground  floor  is  entirely  occupied  by 
the  Cafe  Nuovo,  a  kind  of  aristocratic 
reunion  of  the  most  eminent  literary 
characters  of  Rome  (p.  289.). 

Palazzo  Saechetti,  in  the  Via  Julia, 
built  by  Antonio  Sangallo  fur  his  own 
residence,  early  in  the  17th  century, 
and  completed  by  Nanni  Bigio.  llie 
design  is  very  beautiful,  and  is  much 
admired.  At  the  death  of  Sangallo 
the  palace  became  the  property  of 
Cardinal  Ricci,  who  formed  in  it  a 
valuable  collection  of  statues  and  an- 
tiques. The  palace  and  its  antiquities 
passed  successively  from  the  Ricci 
family  to  those  of  Carol i,  Acquaviva, 
and  Saechetti,  and  ultimately  came 
into  the  possession  of  Benedict  XIV., 
who  removed  the  sculptures  to  the 
Capitol,  and  made  them  the  founda^ 
tion  of  the  present  museum.  The 
palace  bears  the  arms  of  Pope  Paul 
III.,  and  the  inscription,  Tu  mihi 
quodcvmque  hoc  reruru  est,  a  grateful 
record  of  Sangallo's  obligations  to 
the  pope,  who  first  discovered  his 
genius  and  encouraged  it  by  his  con- 
stant patronage. 

Palazzo  Sciarra,  built  in  1603  by 
Flaminio  Ponzio,  with  a  marble  door- 
way in  the  Doric  style,  attributed  to 
Vignola.  The  gallery  is  small,  but 
has  the  rare  advantage  of  containing 
few  inferior  works,  and  is  in  this 
respect  the  most  select  in  Rome. 
Many  of  iVi^s  \wsA.  \^^VkX«^  ^<«ft  Vax- 


mrrly  in  ll>c  lUrWrlni  co 


;^S!I 


rapo  cli  Fcrro  in  1564,  from  llie  dr- 

,„, I    signt  of  Giulio  MuMonr.  the  sell 

I'lT  Miliaria. Oioranti  Btllini,    iin-    of  Dwiirle  it«  Vdlcna.      It  wu 

doanit  ami  ChiU.  —  Pft/n>  Pftit^ioo.  eorMed  by  Bomnnini,  who  bai  lei 
Ml.  SrbMtUn. — GhtrarJo  drlh  S'oile.  one  of  tlie  coutl*  ■  proof  of  liii 
n*  atcriflre  of  l»»iie.  —  Gi"/'i>  fo-    prieioiis  W«le  in  tlie  fantmstlc  co 

I  aHMi'   ll'c  FurtiB'inn TVlfan.    MU'    nade  of  Uciiic  calumits,  eonxtrucled 

^bnna  and  CUild.  viTy  beauiiful.  —  far  tlie  suke  dF  its  perspective.  The 
^Eto«wi  Hulv  FmiiLly;  I)qio<itiun  great  treasure  of  this  palace  is  tlie 
~^  -  celebrated  S(olM  of  Powpfj.  a  col<      ' 


^^Hode 
Hf^rtt 


i^fToT^  «j™<(.i,  Kull-lenglh  por- 
trul  of  CatJinal  KsrlKrini.  II.— 
Sevaral  fine  landuapen:  one  by  FatJ 
BriO,  three  by  dawln  two  Ly  I'mm. 
MBoSi  two  b*  Sort  I  and  onu  by  N. 
JbaMiim.  III.  — Aitdna  Sacchi.  In- 
WaiBBlian  of  Null.  —  Lioiullo  Spada. 
7b«FlaBeltalion._S<.™««.  Depo- 
Mna  tram  the  Croa.  —  Fianiminga. 
Tltt  Sariour  between  Anjjeli. — Guer- 
c<'n>(?).  Samnn.  —  Cai'ifa.  Muhs. — 
^ifroaj.  Holy  Family.  — -■(ft*rt  Du- 
rtr(?).  Madonna  with  Saints.  1V.~ 
Uonarda  da  n«f  (7).  Vanity  and 
Hodeity ;  one  of  Lionarilo'i  miisl 
.  iclurn,  powerfully  co- 
irtd,  and  very  highly  finished.  — 
The  Cheating  Gsmblers; 
r  repetiliuni  of  the  sub- 
ject, but  the   best   of  the    series.— 

Afilimi  Caracei.    Conjugal  I.ove 

Gtddo.    The  Magdalen.  —  Gurrciuo. 
St.  James.  —  Albrit  Durcr (y).    Death 
of  (he  Virgin,  — Caro/o/o.    Adc       ' 
of  the  Magi.  —  TUiaa.    Portri 
himself  and  fomily;  b  female  pi 

powerfully    coloured Gaide.    Tlie 

Maedslen  "delle  radici." — Gwrcwo. 
Si.  Jerome,  St.  Mark,  Si.  John.  — 
SaphatL  Portrait  of  a  violin  player, 
an  undoubted  work  of  Oie  great 
pUbter,  inscribed  with  the  dale  1516. 
— Gior^siione.  Hand  of  St.  Jolin  the 
Baptist — Fra  Darlolatmnio.  The  Ma- 
dontia  and  Saviour,  with  St.  John. 

Palaito  Sora,  near  S.  Maria  delln 
Pace,  interesting  a*  the  design  of 
Bratnaiite.  It  wns  built  by  thi 
luatrioui  arohilect  in  1505  for 
deachi  binily,  jrom  whom  it  passed 
to  the  dukes  of  Sara,  princes 
Piombino,  It  hns  latterly  been 
ifUpied  as  liarmcks  for  the  tiuupa. 
f  Jilfaiza  Spado,  begun  by  CaiiiniiV  \\'[i 


%nr 

e  Vieolo  de' 
Cancellcria,   in   1553.       This   nobh 

:  has  been  regarded  tot  ahoul 
300  years  a*  tbe  identical  statue  wliieb 
atood  in  the  Curia  of  Pompey,  and  it 
whose  base  "  great  CoMur  felt "  It  ii 
1 1  feet  high,  and  of  Parian  mariih. 
We  are  told  by  Rueloniua  that  fm- 
gustUB  rernoved  it  from  the  Curii. 
and  placed  it  on  a  niarble  Jaous  L 
front  of  tbe  basilica,  llie  spot  a 
whieb  it  was  found  correspondi  pre- 
cisely with  this  locality.  WhcD  it 
wa«  first  brought  to  liglit  tbe  bead 
wai  lying  under  one  house  and  tbe 
body  under  nnutber;  aniL Flominius 
Vncca  tells  us  that  the  two  ptopiie-' 
tors  were  on  the  point  of  dividing  the 
sUtue,  wben  Julius  III.  intenrased, 
and  purchased  It  for  500  erowm. 
The  disputes  and  scepticism  of  the 
antiquaries  has  led,  as  usual,  to  abund- 

bu I  after  baling  been  called  Augustus 
Alelander  the  Great,  and  an  unknovn 
emperor  by  succcsnite  critic!!,  the  aO' 

It  is  liLely  10  preserve  the  title  of  th 
Spada  I'ompey  long  after  its  critif 
have  been  forgotten. 


papal  Slates.']    route  27. — rome. — Palaces  (Spada),        517 


Harold,  Sir  John  Hobhouse  examines 
the  evidence  on  the  authenticity  of 
the  statue.  **  The  projected  division 
of  the  Spada  Pompey,"  he  says,  "  has 
already  been  recorded  by  the  histo- 
rian of  the  Decline  and  Fall  of  the 
Roman  Empire.  Mr.  Gibbon  found 
it  in  the  memorials  of  Flaminius 
Vacca;  and  it  may  be  added  to  his 
mention  of  it,  that  Pope  Julius  III. 
gave  the  contending  owners  500  crowns 
for  the  statue,  and  presented  it  to 
Cardinal  Capo  di  Ferro,  who  had 
prevented  the  judgment  of  Solomon 
from  being  executed  upon  the  image. 
In  a  more  civilised  age  this  statue 
was  exposed  to  an  actual  operation ; 
for  the  French,  who  acted  the  Brutus 
of  Voltaire  in  the  Coliseum,  resolved 
that  their  Caesar  should  fall  at  the 
base  of  that  Pompey  which  was  sup- 
posed to  have  been  sprinkled  witli 
the  blood  of  the  original  dictator. 
The  nine-foot  hero  was  therefore  re- 
moved to  the  arena  of  the  amphi- 
theatre, and,  to  facilitate  its  trans- 
port, suffered  the  temporary  amputa- 
tion of  its  right  arm.  The  republican 
tragedians  had  to  plead  that  the  arm 
was  a  restoration  ;  but  their  accusers 
do  not  believe  that  the  integrity  of 
the  statue  would  have  protected  it 
The  love  of  finding  every  coincidence 
has  discovered  the  true  Caesarian  ichor 
in  a  stain  near  the  right  knee;  but 
colder  criticism  has  rejected  not  only 
the  blood,  but  the  portrait,  and  as- 
signed the  globe  of  power  rather  to 
the  first  of  the  emperors  than  to  the 
last  of  the  republican  masters  of 
Rome.  Winckelmann  is  loth  to  allow 
an  heroic  statue  of  a  Roman  citiwn, 
but  the  Griroani  Agrippa,  a  contem- 
porary almost,  is  heroic;  and  naked 
Roman  figures  were  only  very  rare, 
not  absolutely  forbidden.  The  face 
accords  much  better  with  the  **  homi- 
nem  integrum  et  castum  et  gravem,** 
tha'n  with  any  of  the  busts  of  Au- 
gustus, and  is  too  stern  for  him  who 
was  beautiful,  says  Suetonius,  at  all 
periods  of  his  life.  The  pretended  like- 
ness to  Alexander  the  Great  cannot 
bo  discerned,  but  the  traits  resemble 


the  medal  of  Pompey.  The  objection- 
able globe  may  not  have  been  an  ill- 
applied  flattery  to.  him  who  found 
Asia  Minor  the  boimdary,  and  left  it 
the  centre,  of  the  Roman  Empire. 
It  seems  that  Winckelmann  has  made 
a  mistake  in  thinking  that  no  proof 
of  the  identity  of  this  statue  with  that 
which  received  the  bloody  sacrifice 
can  be  'derived  from  the  spot  where 
it  was  discovered.  Flaminius  Vacca 
says  soUo  una  cantina,  and  this  can- 
tina  is  known  to  have  been  in  the 
Vicolo  de*  Leutari,  near  the  Can- 
celleria ;  a  position  corresponding 
exactly  to  that  of  the  Janus  before 
the  basilica  of  Powpey's  Theatre,  to 
which  Augustus  transferred  the  statue 
after  the  curia  was  cither  burnt  or 
takea  down.  Part  of  the  Pompeian 
shade,  the  portico,  existed  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  15th  century,  and  the 
atrium  was  still  called  Sairum,  So 
says  Biondus.  At  all  events,  so  im- 
posing is  the  stern  majesty  of  the 
statue,  and  so  memorable  is  the  story, 
that  the  play  of  the  imagination  leaves 
no  room  for  the  exercise  of  the  judg- 
ment, and  the  fiction,  if  a  fiction  it 
is,  operates  on  the  spectator  with  an 
effect  not  less  powerful  than  truth.** 
During  the  siege  of  Rome  in  1849, 
the  statue  had  a  wonderful  escape 
from  destruction ;  some  SO  shots  from 
the  French  batteries  struck  the  walls 
of  the  palace,  several  broke  through 
the  massive  structure,  and  bounded 
from  side  to  side  in  the  very  room 
where  the  statue  stands ;  yet  it  escaped 
unharmed.  Among  the  other  an- 
tiques of  this  palace,  the  most  remark- 
able are  the  sitting  statue  of  a  phi-' 
losopher  (  Antisthenes  ?),  and  the  eight 
beautiful  bas-reliefs  which  formed  the 
pavement  of  St.  Agnese  fuori  le  Mure, 
where  thev  were  discovered  in  the 
last  century,  with  the  sculptured  side 
downwards.  Their  subjects  are, — 
1.  Paris  on  Mount  Ida;  2.  Bellero- 
phon  and  Pegasus ;  3.  Mercury  show- 
ing the  lyre  to  Apollo;  4.  Adrastus 
and  Hjrpsipyle  finding  the  body  of 
Archemorus;  5.  Paris  and  Helena 
6.  \3\7««e%iflAI5rtfwB!A'ft\^X^sv^^ 


df  Mitwctii  i  T.  AanniK  or  of  Route.  Tlic  P.  'I'orlonia  in  the 
Halngwi  8.  PiiiphH  anil  Dcilului.  TrostH^re,  furmcrly  the  P.  Girmd, 
'111*  two  e»li  arc  IVom  tbt  Imutifut ,  ■■  nolicc4  uniler  thai  bead. 
li.K'rwlirft  in  tin  Cupilol.  TIicChUit)!  Falaixa  di  Ftnaia,  st  Ihc  extrenut; 
Jiu  ■  Goltcctioo  of  pieturn  of  very  of  the  Cano.  tbe  anoient  palace  of 
doublAil  Bullientioily.    I. — CHErcJim  :  the  republic  of  Venice.      This  cualel. 

ftittd   *id)  the  bead  of  Gobnlb laled  palace  occupies  one  of  the  finest 

^JfgasBfyJo.   A  female  holding  a  earn,   sites  in  Home.      It  van  built  in  I4$8 

^mtt.-~AimiittU  Caruai.   The  Caiitu '  by    P<iul   II.,  a   Venetian,   &oai  the 

■hiwuw.  (p.  337.)     Jl. ~Gaidi}(?).    deugot  of  Ciuliino  da  AlajsDo,     The 

''JWith  with  the  head  of  Holafernes:|  materials,  like  lUose  of  the  Famen 

lAioretie. —  Sahatar  Ufa.    Head  of  Palace,  Here  plundered  from  th«  Co- 

Seneca. — JJoHtntodafiiuiQ).  Chriat   liseiim.     It  ii  not  lemArkable  fut  an; 

diipiiting  in  the  Temple.  —  Tenicrt.    warkg  of  art,  but   U   liistorieally  is- 

A  landwape.  —  itOmni,   Time  unieil-l  teretting  as  the  residence    of  severd 

ing  IViilb MirhaeUa^elo  <!•/  BaiH-  '  popea.  uf  tlic  duke  of  Perraro,  Bohd 

hmrt.  Tbe  Kerolt  of  Mauiniollo  in  <  d'Ente.andafCtaarlesVIlLaf  Fraoee, 
the  market-place  at  Naplei.  III. —  uii  bis  pauage  through  Itome  to  eitm. 
Paolo  PrrantttQ).  Beatrice  Cenci,—  plete  tite  conquest  of  Nuplea.  Tbe 
Dido;    one   of  the  iinest   pnlace  wai  conferred  by  I^us  IV,  an 


pieturu  in  the  ooUectian Ghcrardo 

Mia  NotU.  Christ  before  Piinle.    IV. 

—  TiHanfi).    Portrait  of  Paul  III. 

—  Ouido.  Portrait  ofCardLnal  Spadai 
the  Flight  of  Helen.  —Camgpia  (?). 
Two  bendi  of  hoys. — CuereiM.  Mag- 
dalen.— Manl^pui.  Cbriat  witbninli. 

—  Albtrl  Dnrm:  St.  Jerome.— Cara. 
paff^o.  A  female  muaiotan  \  St.  Anne 
and  the  Virgin. 

Fulaito  Torl.,nia,  built  by  tbe  Bo- 
lognctti  family,  about  1650.  from  the 
designs  of  Carlo  t'ontana.  and  pur- 
chased at  the  beginning  of  the  prenent 
century  by  tlie  late  Giovanni  Torlonia, 
thebanker.afterwardt  dukeof  Brace!- 
ano.  Allilseallcctionswercformedby 
Giovanni  Torlonie,  Dnd  the  principal 
works  it  contain  are  the  productions 
of  modem  artists.  The  ceilings  ofi 
the  rooms  are  paiutcd  by  Camacemi,] 
Fclagi,  and  Land! ;  and  In  a  cabinet! 
built  for  the  purpose  is  Canom'i 
of  Ileroulei  thrawing  Lyeas  ii 
sen.      The   present  duke   ' 


admitted    tke 


rable 


1  the 


tbe  republic  of  Venice,  I 
tlie  first  power  wbieb  i 
Council  of  Trent.  I 
the  possession  (d  the  republic  uotil 
the  period  of  its  lall,  when  it  passed 
to  tbe  emperor  of  Austria.  Its  bat< 
llvmented  valla  give  it  the  air  of  ai 
old  feudal  fortress.  It  is  now  tbe 
reeidence  of  the  Austilan  ambasssdori 

Pulaiia  Fidoiti,  rotmcrl;  the  R 
CaffareUi  and  P.  SleppuHi,  near  tlu 
church  of  S.  Andrea  delk  Valle,  in. 
terescing  OS  the  inoit  importaut  btuld- 
ing  designed  hy  Ilaphael  in  Honie 
(1.51J).      Tlie  upper  part  is  a  sutHte- 

'nt  addition,  and  harmonises  badlj 
•rilh  the  mmple  solidity  of  ibe  ground 
plan.  At  the  foot  of  the  alaira  is  a 
Marcus  Aurelius.  Among 
antiques  are  tbe  fragments 
or  uio  roiti  Sacri,  tlie  Calendar  of 
Verrius  Flaccus,  bund  in  the  but 
century  at  Palestrina  by  Carditul 
Stoppani,  and  illustrated  with  great 
learning  by  tbe  late  Profeesor  Kibby, 


rangements  and  decorations,  and 

made  impoitant  additions  to  the 

turc    gallery,  ffbieh  conlnins  a 

good  paintings  interspersed  with  tbe  Teller  by  tbe 

usual    amount  of  indifferent    works,    publi 


a  gal-  qiiently  distract 
r  than  one  which  will  bmt  a  eoto-linuibltusi^e  bou 
koa  with  those  of  the  older  palaces'  iVfieAiiiAv'neTi 


Historical  Houses. 

OS  uJfered  to  the  tra- 

LUeely  pajaces  and  tbe 

of  Rome    too    &»- 


Papal  States.']    route  27. — Rome. — Historical  Houses.       519 


in  the  history  of  art     The  first  in 
interest  is  the 

House  of  Raphael,  situated  in  the 
Via  Coronari,  No.  1245.,  on  the  left 
handy  towards  the  Piazza  di  Panico, 
a  small  piazza  near  the  Ponte  di  S. 
Angelo.  In  this  house  the  great 
painter  resided  for  many  years  before 
he  purchased  Bramante's  beautiful 
palace  in  the  Borgo  Nuovo  (see  P. 
degli  Convertiti).  It  is  the  very  house 
with  which  he  endowed  the  cliapel  in 
the  Pantheon,  beneath  which  his  ashes 
still  repose.  It  was  renovated  and 
partly  rebuilt  in  1705,  when  Carlo 
Maratta  painted  on  the  fa9ade  a  por- 
trait  of  Raphael  in  chiaro-scuro.  This 
interesting  record  is  now  almost  ef- 
faced, and  it  is  said  that  the  house 
itself  is  not  applied  to  the  purpose 
indicated  in  the  will.  We  are  at  a 
loss  to  comprehend  the  reason  why 
the  Romans,  alive  on  all  occasions  to 
the  beauties  of  art^  should  feel  in- 
difference to  the  residence  of  the 
greatest  artist  who  enriched  their  city 
with  the  miracles  of  his  matchless 
genius. 

House  of  Pietro  da  Cortona,  -—  In 
the  little  street  called  the  Via  Pe- 
tacohia,  near  the  Tojnb  of  Bibulus, 
is  this  interesting  house,  built  and 
inhabited  by  Pietro  da  Cortona.  His 
skill  and  judgment  in  architecture 
are  shown  even  on  the  small  scale  on 
which  his  house  is  constructed;  the 
windows,  the  door,  the  portico,  and 
the  little  court  are  of  the  Doric  order, 
and  still  exhibit  many  traces  of  the 
peculiar  taste  of  this  very  estimable 
artist. 

House  of  Bernini,  near  tlic  Barbe- 
riui  Palace.  The  house  inhabited  by 
Bernini  deserves  honourable  mention. 
We  are  indebted  to  him  for  some  fine 
works  of  architecture  and  sculpture  ; 
and  notwithstanding  the  exaggeration 
which  he  introduced  into  both  these 
branches  of  art,  we  must  not  make 
liim  responsible  for  the  decay  of  taste 
or  for  the  errors  of  his  succesiors. 
The  palace  still  contains  his  semi- 
colossal  statue  of  Truth,  and  deserves 
to  be  distinguithed  by  an  ioscription. 


House  of  the  Zuccari.  —  At  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  Via  Sistina 
is  the  house  formerly  called  the  Pa- 
lazzo della  Ilegina  di  Pologna,  in 
commemoration  of  Maria  Casimira 
queen  of  Poland,  who  resided  in  it 
for  some  years.  It  is  interesting  as 
having  been  built  by  Taddeo  and 
Federigo  Zuccari  as  their  private  re- 
sidence. The  ground  floor  was 
adorned  by  Federigo  with  frescoes,  re« 
presenting,  as  Lanzi  tells  us,  "  por- 
traits of  his  own  family,  ccmversaziooi, 
and  other  curious  and  novel  subjects, 
executed  with  the  assistance  of  his 
scholars,  and  with  very  little  care ;  in 
which,  more  than  in  any  of  his  other 
works,  he  appears  a  trifler — the  fitting 
leader  of  a  degenerate  school."  A  few 
years  ngo  the  palace  was  the  residence 
of  the  Prussian  consul-general  Bar- 
tholdi,  under  whose  auspices  it  has 
become  remarkable  for  a  higher  class 
of  frescoes,  painted  in  one  of  the  upper 
chambers  by  some  of  the  most  eminent 
German  artists  of  our  own  time. 
They  are  illustrative  of  the  history  of 
Joseph  :  the  Joseph  sold  by  bis 
brethren  is  by  Overbeck;  the  scene 
with  Potiphar's  wife,  by  Ph,  FeU  g 
Jacob's  Lamentation,  and  the  inter- 
pretation of  the  Dream  in  prison,  by 
W,  Sehadow ;  the  interpretation  of 
the  King's  dream,  &e„  by  Cornelius  / 
the  seven  years  of  plenty,  by  PA.  Feit; 
the  seven  years  of  fiunine,  by  Over- 
beck. 

House  of  Poussin,  in  the  little 
Piazza  della  Trinita,  No.  9.,  near  the 
Trinity  de'  Monti,  recently  occupied 
by  an  English  fiunily.  For  nearly 
forty  years  this  house  was  occupied 
by  Nicholas  Poussin.  Many  of  the 
great  painter's  most  interesting  letters 
are  dated  from  it,  and  he  died  there 
at  an  advanced  age  in  1665.  The 
Pincian  is  identified  with  the  names 
of  the  most  celebrated  landscape 
painters.  Immediately  opposiite  the 
house  of  Poussin  is  the  House  of 
Clauds  Lorrains ;  and  that  of  Salvaior 
Rosa  is  not  fiir  distant 

Horns*  of  Comrad  AstynAetm.— >  AA- 


590 


1E0QTV  9T>^^  IIOMft,"*-  JVhWW  CWWBWWMi" 


^t^ 


ik-lirslvdCtnirMfl  imid    i 


Svfjnlwiin  aiul  Amnlil  l-uiniru 
aUblUhcd  the  Ent  pfintine  pre«  at 
■turn*  in  1 167.  They  had  (inriousty 
bi«n  uMllcd  al  Subiaco  i  but  in  con- 
■K|uenc«  of  ■  diugr>wmcot  vith  the 
monlu  llivjr  migntEd  lo  Hume  in 
IKiT,  itid  had  tlic  hoiKiiir  or  cita- 
bliihiDe  ID  ihii  cily  the  wcuiid  print- 
ing prsal  in  llalj.  Tlic  imprint  or 
tlwir  vucb*  tptwifir*  tlie  local  il<r  ai 
**ia  domo  Petri  d«  Maximi*."  'I'hc 
Di  Oralart  at  ficcro  and  the  Vrbi 
Dri  vent  printed  there  in  the  firM 
eitaliliahmcnL  The 
orcd  about    1510   by 


any  colleolioa  of  antique  plastic  vorki 
lii^cTls  brought  toggnher.  Tlie  col- 
lection of  Etru$r:an  jtveUtrs,  Ibrmed 
during  the  latest  discoveries  in  tbe 
tomb*,  nintaiiu  some  exquisite  speci- 
meiu  of  ancient  art  in  gold  and  olhn 
ornaments;   the  ear-rings  in  the  f 


^|r  There  ai 


if  genii, 

ILie  filagree   brooehea    and    bracelet;, 
tha  chains  fur  the  neok,  the  cbaplelt 
in  the  tatm  of  leaves,  the  torquei,  the  ' 
head  of  the  homed  Bacchus,  and  the 
gold  fibula  with  an  Eiruscan  inseiip- 
tion,   BUrpan  the    finest    pruductioni 
of  Triehinopoly  and  Genoa.      Oneof 
the  most  remarkable   ohjects  it 
ciLinet    is   the   suptrli    KsrabBUi  of 
•ardonji,   wiih  an   engraTing  repre- 
senting  Cadmus  conquering  tl 
gon.       All    tlieoe    worka    eil 
retinement  of  taste  and  an  elalwnle 
delicacy  of  eiecutian,    which  ii  d 
eicelled  and  scarcely  equalleJ  by  Cl 
Jlfaam  OnBfNina,  near  the  Montedi '  handicraft   of   modern,   timei.      Tl 
Pietj The    inuseuin    of  Caialien.- 1  neit  roum   is  decorated  irith  a 


a  Rome  which  are 
iatCiGit  to  lha«  of  n 


of  the  palace*.     They  ai 


icccwary  to  apply  for  pcr- 


Compona    i 


•tuden 


of  Etruscan  a 


r  the   c 


cely, 


tiquitl 


:    kinJ 


been  created  entirely  by 
tieman,  and  nearly  all  iu 
objects  were  found  on  his  own  pro- 
perty, and  eicnvated  under  hu 
personal  sujierintendence.  The  col- 
lection of  Etruscan  antiquiliea 


erica  of  a 


of  lilb,  found  fur  (he  most  part  in  tlit 
tomba  of  Tarquinii  and  'I'uscsnia ; 
the  aatcopliagi,  painted  in  varioui  eo- 
loDts,  are  unrivalled  in  sise,  in  forni; 
and  in  the  figures  and  bas-relieft  foi 
which  they  are  remarkable.  TIk 
BomoH  Icrra-coUai  in  relief,  firom  theii 
beautiful  style  and  perfect  imitation 
of  Greek  art,  are  the  object  of  ge- 
neral admiration,  and  are  well  knuffn 
to  the  world  through  Car.  Campana't 

work,    entitled    "  Antiche    Opere   in    -... 

Flastka."     The  novelty  ut  the  sub- 1  of  Ettusom  and  Roi 
Jecls  and   composition^!,    the   varietj\A\w  \i\^qw.\.   biMk 


freauHi,  found  by  Cav,  Compau  ii 
liie  progress  of  his  excavations  ii 
various  parts  of  tlie  contorni  of  nome, 
One  of  ilicse  is  of  peculiar  rarity  anc 
value  both  as  a  work  of  art  and  oaan 
liistoricHl  monuihent 

respective  oonditions  of  each  penon 


:alleci 


:ribed  ii 

colled 


Creek  chan 


IS  of  11 


The 


greatest  trcawre  is  a  Isrge  atnpbora, 
four  feet  high,  found  at  Ruvo,  in 
Apulia,  having  on  one  side  the  alArj 
of  Jasnn  and  the  Golden  Fleece,  and 
on  the  other  the  DcHth  of  Hector. 
Another  vase  of  great  interest  and 
value,  standing  on  a  pedestal  in  the 
centre  of  the  room,  represents  THp- 
lolemus  on  his  cur.  with  Ceres  by  hu 
side  ;  it  was  found  at  VulcL  Another 
of  great  beauty  represents  the  history 
of  Danae  end  Perseus,     llie  collec- 


L  Epecimetis : 


Papai  States,']  r.  27. — rome. — Artists' Studios  {Sculptors),  521 

among  which  are  two  beautiful  tri- 
pods A  mirror  of  extraordinary  size 
and  beauty,and  the  only  cinerary  urn 
in  bronze  which  has  yet  been  dis- 
covered. It  was  found  at  Perugia, 
still  containing  the  ashes  of  the  d^, 
and  among  them  a  gold  chaplet,  now 
preserved  in  the  cabinet  of  jewellery. 
A  bier  of  bronze  resembles,  in  its 
form  and  bottom  of  lattice-work,  the 
celebrated  one  already  described  in 
our  account  of  the  Gregorian  Mu- 
seum. It  has,  however,  a  higher  in- 
terest, as  it  still  bears  the  helmet, 
breastplate,  greaves,  and  sword  of  the 
warrior  whose  body  once  reposed  on 
it  in  death.  A  helmet  which  had 
been  inlaid  with  silver  is  still  en- 
circled with  the  chaplet  of  ivy,  and 
the  two  chaplets  of  laurel  leaves  in 
solid  gold,  which  were  found  upon  it 
when  discovered  in  a  tomb  at  Vulci. 
Among  the  shields,  cuirasses,  and 
other  military  weapons  in  the  collec- 
tion, the  breastplate  which  still  re- 
tains a  sword-thrust,  and  the  em- 
bossed shield,  four  feet  in  diameter, 
the  largest  known,  will  not  fail  to 
attract  attention.  In  the  cabinet  of 
SfttUMCi  are  numerous  ollse,  phials, 
vases,  and  other  antique  glass  vessels 
of  new  and  beautiful  forms,  and  of 
extraordinary  magnitude.  The  first  in 
interest  and  value  are  the  three  ele- 
gant tazze  of  blue,  white,  and  yellow 
glass,  each  mounted  on  a  stand  of  gold 
filagree,  precisely  as  they  were  taken 
from  the  tomb.  The  last  collection 
of  this  museum,  so  honourable  to  Cav. 
Campana*8  spirit  and  intelligence,  and 
so  rarely  found  in  the  residence  of  a 
private  gentleman  in  any  part  of  Eu- 
rope, has  been  removed  to  his  villa  on 
the  slopes  of  the  Caelian,  near  the 
Coliseum.  It  contains  an  interesting 
scries  of  cinerary  urns  and  vases,  with 
several  busts  and  statues.  Most  of 
the  inscriptions  are  entirely  new,  and 
M  yet  inedited. 


Artists*  Studios. 

Among  those  characteristics  of  Mo- 
dem Rome  which  are  capable  of  affbrd- 
ing  the  hjirbc*^  interest  to  the  intel- 


ligent traveller,  we  know  none  which 
possess  a  greater  charm  than  the 
studios  of  the  artists.  Travellers  in 
general  are  little  aware  of  the  interest 
which  these  studios  are  calculated  to 
afford,  and  many  leave  Rome  without 
making  the  acquaintance  of  a  single 
artist.  In  the  case  of  English  tra- 
vellers, in  particular,  this  neglect  is 
the  more  inexcusable,  as  many  of  the 
finest  works  of  our  countrymen  in 
Rome  are  to  be  found  in  the  most 
celebrated  private  galleries  of  Great 
Britain.  The  instruction  to  be  de- 
rived in  the  studios  of  these  gentle- 
men is  afibrded  on  all  occasions  in 
the  most  obliging  manner.  Those 
who  have  any  feeling  for  art  will  not 
neglect  the  resources  so  abundantly 
placed  within  their  reach.  We  have 
already  adverted  to  the  cordial  feeling 
with  which  the  artists  of  all  nations 
pursue  their  studies  at  Rome.  It  is 
an  agreeable  surprise  to  all  who  visit 
it  for  the  first  time  to  find  the  artists 
of  so  many  countries  living  together 
on  such  amicable  terms.  It  gives  the 
finest  impression  of  the  arts  they  pro- 
fess, when  we  see  that  they  have  such 
influence  over  the  professors  as  to 
unite  them  in  bonds  of  friendship, 
whatever  may  be  the  diversity  of  their 
national  customs,  or  of  their  tastes  in 
art.  In  regard  to  the  native  artist^ 
and  particularly  those  who  are  famous 
as  landscape  painters,  it  is  an  extra* 
ordinary  fiict,  that  although  in  Rome 
the  colouring  of  nature  is  so  beauti- 
ful, colour  is  the  point  in  which  they 
do  not  generally  excel. 

Sculptors. -— JoAtt  Gihton,  R.  A., 
No.  6,  7.  Via  della  Fontanella.  First 
among  our  countrymen  resident  at 
Rome  is  this  distinguished  sculptor, 
who  merits  the  high  praise  of  having 
united  the  styles  of  the  two  greatest 
sculptors  of  modern  Rome,  Canova 
and  Thorwaldsen :  bis  works  are  ima- 
ginative and  learned,  and  embrace 
both  the  heroic  and  pastoral  styles 
with  equal  excellence.  —  Ataedonaldt 
Stalle  di  Barberini,  Piassa  BarberinL 
In    addition    to    some    imaginative 


H.  27.— BO»E.— jfrfirfr'  awSwtffftfeftWr).-  ■ 

uivd  tiMwr  timr  tor  tli«  trulli  |ie>nt<  by  wliicli  the  sbroud  w«s  £u< 
ity  of  liii  liuala  (luui  auy  vlut  |  lencd  (p,  33S> ).  —  Spmee,  Vi(  lo- 
IM  UoRW  "ml  1"»  "udio  ■In-nyi  bran  cunbUi,  au  Eoglisb  tculplar  ot  oon- 
Mtiahclaiy  eiidoiHM  of  the  vxMnI  of  |  wdiinLle  murit. —  GoU,  Ko.  ISS. 
Ui  popdUiitj.  —  TateroHl,  No.  S%  '  Vi*  Babuiiw,  remuksble  for  hit  el- 
nuM  Caiipuceim.  Ttiiereni'i  alyle  eoution  oF  iniinals. 
IfaciUptun  in  in  the  finiiit  drainktii:  PAiMTiaa. —  Oircrbect, PalaxioCeoia, 
mubioiid  with  deqi  fwliug  fur  near  the  Gbetlo.  (His  EtuiliDWCfxn 
H«  it  the  greatest  lulisn  oii  Sundays  and  frstas  fmia  IS  to  3.) 
ilplor  now  liiintt,  uoiling  the  beau-  This  eminent  German  was  one  of  the 
if  brmi  or  nature  with  lliecbarnis  flril  vaaetecs  of  the  modem  school 
IUr«kail.  His  Decent  from  the  who  lecurred  to  the  simple  style «( 
bii  vounded  Venua,  and  bit  the  early  Italian  punteri.  Ilismb- 
,  ate  amoOK  the  greatest  pit>-  Jests  ate  chiefly  of  a  religious  ebanv- 
■  of  inod«n  art. —  TaduHni,  ter,  and  are  Ibtu  particularly  tulaptad 
.  L  14SI.  Via  DobuinOi  a  Bulognne  to  the  pure  devotional  feeling  iMfb 
nilplor,  very  papular  in  Ilalv.  —  charicterisea  the  period  of  sit  wtaidi 
Vel/,  No.  15a.  Via  Uuattro  Fon'tane.  he  has  adopted  as  his  model,  — 
I    work*   of   tbit    Pnininn    arlltt    j4grirala.  No.  8.  Via  di  Chiexa  Niid«a 

school  begun  by  Thor-    nearthePortaCavHlleggieri,  luutgrert 

vtUxni  they  sbov  great  originality  popularity  among  the  Italiaua:  hia 
and  remarkable  power  of  cieoution.  style  ia  Ibiined  on  tbe  school  of  H» 
—  FiHtB,  No.  46.  Via  di  S,  Niccolo  pbael  Mengs,  and  consequently  pw- 
di  Tolentino.  In  the  present  state  of  scnts  a  tniiluie  of  the  qualitia  <oC 
■oulpture  the  vigorous  genius  of  Fi-  various  painters.  His  altar-pieeei  ale 
nclli  iFOuld  make  him  the  lint  in  hit  free  from  faults,  even  to 
peeuliar  Unci  I""'  he  is  occHslonally  and  in  this  peeuUar  stylt 
unequal,  aomctlnies  produoing  works  surpassed  by  any  artist  at  modeni 
wbieh  rival  ancient  Greece,  and  at  lUly.  ~  Ptary  Wilkaait,  No.  IS. 
Mbers  not  coming  up  to  the  standard  |  I'iaixa   Mignanelli.      No  artist  is  (B- 

flf  modern  lUly Rinaldi,    No.  ST.  j  titled  ID   more   honourable   mcotin 

Via  delle  Colonnette,  the  present  |  than  Penry  Williatns :  his  style  ii 
Aolessor  of  the  Academy  of  St. ,  peculiarly  his  own ;  bis  feeling  Ba 
Luke,  has  become  celebrated  for  hia  '  every  thing  that  is  beautiful  in  nalme 
Sibyl,  and  for  the  Joan  of  Arc,  eie-  is  combined  with  the  most  ddical* 
outedasaeammlsslonlbrtheEx-King  i  yet  powerful  exeeutiou,  and  be  U 
of  the  French — Crawford,  an  Ameil-    without  doubt  the  first   in  what  tba 

oao  sculptor,  PiaiaaBarberini lni~    Itnllans  call   "  Qnadri  di  genere,"  — 

A^,aSwiss,No.8.PiasiaBarberim. —    TAobuh    Di.       '  *'        •"-      "" 

2V™cfatNo.U.ViBde'CappueeinL—    Felice,  l""  . 
0*ic«,No.94.{Court)ViadueMaeelli.    celebrated  a 
Wagntr,  VlUa  Malta. — Sicaaime,    painters:  hi 

S,  Piazu  Baiberini,  continues  to    known  to  admirers 

beautilnl  fable  of  Psyche,    branch    of  art,  and   have    bees    lu»i 

treats  his  lavourlte  subject  with  '  nourcd  trith  the  highest  praise  by  the 

fbroi  and  execution. —  Can.  Fa-  |  first    German    critics.      No  artist,  in 

!>,  No.  14.  Via-  Felice,  one  of  the  i  modern  times  has  invested  the  niina 

Vatican  Museum,  bos    and  classical  soencry  of  Rome  wiUt 

lired  some  reputation  farbis  busis   a    greater    interest;  —  no    one    baij 

monuments.      Cav.    Fahris  took    more  thoroughly  realised  tlte  glowing 

of  the  skull   and  right  hand  of  landscapes    of   Tivoli,    or  the   forest 

iphaei  when  the  tomb  in  the  Pan-   scenes  of  the  Borghese  gardens.    His 

'as  opened  in    1S33,  and  ji[&-lst.^le,  which  Uentirely  original, diowB 

lome  of  tha  mual  rings  onii 'in&o«K  \KB.tOTii^  i -  "■■-''- 


,  No.  107.  T» 
o.  Oneof  thentM 
r  English  landscape* 


j^^aphi 


Papcd  States.']     r.  27.  —  rome.  —  Colleges  (  Sapienza),        523 


tion,  and  has  great  force  in  effect.  — 
Minardi,  Palazzo  Colouna,  considered 
the  first  draughtsman  in  Italy.  His 
JNIadonnas  have  given  him  a  high  re- 
putation in  the  milder  region  of  art. 
—  Fodesti,  No.  86.  Via  S.  Claudio,  in 
great  esteem  as  an  historical  painter  : 
he  is,  perhaps,  rather  melodramatic 
than  historical,  and  excels  in  mytho- 
logy and  romance.  —  Catel,  No.  9. 
Piazza  di  Spagna,  the  Prussian  land- 
scape painter,  excellent  in  his  views 
of  Naples,  which  only  want  a  richer 
colouring  to  make  them  perfect  — 
Fallati,  No.  5.  Via  MargutU,  the  first 
painter  of  wild  boars  in  Italy :  his 
great  experience  as  a  cacciatore 
(p.  293.)  particularly  qualifies  him  for 
this  difficult  class  of  subjects.  — 
Meyer,  No.  17.  Via  Pinciana,  a  Danish 
painter  of  comic  subjects :  his  studies 
of  the  Italian  character  in  its  comic 
features  are  quite  unrivalled:  every 
line  is  true  to  nature,  and  the  dry 
humour  which  pervades  his  works  is 
admirably  expressed. — Newboldj  No.  6. 
Via  Cappuccini,  an  English  landscape 
painter  of  considerable  merit,  whose 
studio  will  enable  the  traveller  to 
supply  himself  with  admirable  remi- 
niscences of  Roman  scenery  at  very 
reasonable  prices.  —  Siruttt  another 
£nglij»h  landscape  artist.  No.  55.  Via 
Babuino. —  Ccmevari,  Palazzetto  Bor- 
ghese,  the  best  portrait-painter  in 
Komc,  often  considered  to  approach 
the  charms  of  Vandyke  in  colouring 

and   taste Cavatteri,    No.  50.  Via 

Margutta,  also  to  be  noticed  as  a 
fashionable  portrait-painter.  ^-Hau§' 
ser,  Palazzo  Costa,  a  native  of 
•Switzerland,  well  known  in  England 
by  the  magnificent  decorations  exe- 
cuted by  him  for  Lord  Shrewsbury, 
in  the  new  church  erected  about  six 
years  ago,  chiefly  at  his  lordsliip's  ex- 
pense, in  the  neighbourhood  of  Alton 
Towers.  —  Coghetti,  Palazzo  Al- 
temps.  —  CoHsonif  7.  Vicolo  di  Van^ 
taggio. 

COLLKGES   AVD    AcADXMIBS. 

CaUegio  ddia  Sapienza,  the  Univer- 
sity of  llome,  founded  by  Innoeent 


IV.  in  1244,  as  a  school  for  the  canon 
and  civil  law.  It  was  enlarged  in 
1295  by  Boniface  VIII.,  who  added 
the  theological  schools ;  the  philologi- 
cal professorships  were  added  in  1310 
by  Clement  V.  Subsequent  pontiffs 
enlarged  the  plan  by  the  introduction 
of  scientific  studies,  and  endowed  the 
university  with  the  produce  of  various 
articles  of  excise.  The  present  build- 
ing was  begun  by  Leo  X.  from  the 
designs  of  Michael  Angelo,  and  finished 
in  1576,  under  Gregory  XIII.,  by 
Giacomo  delia  Porta.  The  oblong 
court,  with  its  double  portico,  sus- 
tained in  the  lower  story  by  Doric 
and  in  the  upper  by  Ionic  pilasters, 
was  built  by  this  able  architect.  The 
church  and  its  spiral  cupola  are  in  the 
most  fantastic  style  of  Borromini. 
The  university  derives  the  title  of  the 
Sapienxa  firom  the  inscription  over  the 
principal  entrance,  Initium  SapientiiB 
timor  Domini.  Its  organisation  was 
entirely  remodelled  by  Leo  XII.  in 
1825,  and  placed  on  a  level  with  that 
of  the  other,  universities  of  Italy.  The 
bull  containing  the  decree,  conferred 
upon  it  and  the  University  of  Bo- 
logna, the  rank  of  the  two  primary  uni- 
versities of  the  Papal  States.  It  Is 
governed  by  a  cardinal  high  chan- 
cellor, and  by  a  rector  chosen  from 
the  advocates  of  the  Consistoiy :  it 
has  five  colleges,  appropriated  to  theo* 
logy,  law,  medicine,  natural  philo- 
sophy, and  philology.  The  number 
of  professors  is  forty-two,  five  of 
whom  are  attached  to  the  college  of 
theology,  seven  to  the  college  of  law, 
thirteen  to  the  college  of  medicine, 
eleven  to  that  of  natural  phildsophy, 
and  six  to  that  of  philology.  All 
their  lectures  are  gratuitous,  their 
salaries  being  fixed  and  paid  by  the 
government.  The  number  of  students 
is  seldom  less  than  1000.  Attached  to 
the  university  is  a  Library,  fiounded  by 
Alexander  VII.,  and  liberally  in- 
creased by  Leo  XII.  It  is  open  daily, 
with  the  exception  of  Thursdays,  from 
8  to  12,  and  for  two  hours  in  the 
afternoon.  The  Museum  coicAaxxsA  «^ 
cabinet  oC  isum«ti2^  ww^iXcks«^^k««* 


SS*       utrotB  ST — ROME— Coniye»ffi  flamittnf^. 


at  gtotogtol  ipecimeni  ill 
J3n>oel<i'i  wo.  k  ua  Ihe-Suu 
A«ull*«tion  of  ToHil  cngs 
f  tbr  «n*iroiu  of  Itome.  ■  stnall  ml- 
'    >  of  too\ogf  and    rainpnrstive 
in  ji  4nil  a  CHtiinct  of  genu  furmcd 
f  Leo  XII.      On  Iho  ground  Hunt 
nilj  are  the  Stuoli  rldle 
U  Arlr,  directed  liy  Ilie  elgien  pro- 
■  of  the  Amdi-my  of  Si.  Luke, 
10  give  lecture!  iii  piiinlin<(,  sculp- 
,  arcliHectuie.  penpeclivr,  deeo- 
!(  pkinling,  anatomy,  rnTthology, 


Rte  SelKKil  of  Engineen,  fo 
""Vhii   VII.      Dependent   or 


I    Butiii 


Joining  the  SilTiiii  PMlacr,  in  the 
Tnuteiere.  It  bas  rcceiied  mRn)' 
ioipartant  aeceBloni  of  rare  plaiibi 
vilhin  llie  last  li:ir  yenrt,  but  in  hiLU 
miKwptible  of  great  improvemem. 
Uan;  of  the  professaTs  of  the  Sapienza 
ore  celebrated  throughout  Ital;  for 
tile  high  ciuractBt  of  their  attain- 
niMit«i  and  the  repulalion  of  a  fev  ia 
not  eonfined  to  Europe.  Nothing 
can  eiceed  the  courti'sy  with  which 
theliterarjondscicDtilicinen  afitome 
■re  ready  to  impart  Iheir  knowledge 
lo  atraDgen;  and  their  soeiely  adds 
omtiderably  to  the  intercut  of  the 
Inveller  who  ii  capable  of  enjoying 
-It.  Aa  a  proof  lliat  mind  is  not  with- 
Lflut  its  reaourcet  at  Home,  we  may 
^Udduce  tbe    names  of  many    distin- 


mtrativeof    Barlocci;  in   anatomT,  Pielro  Lupi; 
IcidiUoma,-   and  in  medicine,  De  'iMatiloeta. 

Callrgio  Rufano,  built  in  15X9  by 

Gregory  XIII.,  from    the  deugns  of 

Bnrtolommeo  Ammanali.   Theeoone 

of  inuructioD   embraces  the   lisimed 

UngUBgK^  theology,  rhetoric,  and  dif> 

ferent  brandies  of  natural  pliilosoplif. 

Attaclied  to  the  cnllegc  are  an  (dwir- 

latory,  a  library,  and    the    museum 

founded   by  the  teamed  Father  Kir- 

cher.     Tbe  whole  building  wasKery 

nearly  destroyed  by  fire,  while  It  *■■ 

il  noor  IS  I  occupied  by  the  French  engineering 

inndcd  by  '  corps  in  IS'jg.    Tiie  parts  of  the  haild' 

I  the  uni-    iiig    destroyed    vere    tbe    cappiSellt, 

form etiy  inhabited  bySl. 


e  nmy  men- 


|!«ass  of  European  Ii 
■eience: — in  philology 
tion  Cardinal  Mai,  the  uucoverer  o: 
the  Palimpsests  of  Cicero;  Lanci,  the 
Arabic  schular;  and  Laurcani,  thi 
Ebrariin  of  the  Vatican,  well  bnowi: 
by  bis  Latin  letters.  In  mathematic- 
WB  may  cite  Fieri,  Venluroli,  Cava- 
lieri.  and  8ereoi;  in  natural  philo- 
sophy, Bonelli;  in  natural  history. 
A^tax^  the  professor  of  zoology  : 


Monsigi 


:i-SpBda, 


ralogy, 


drendy 

p.  359.!  inmoral  philo- 

M|lhy,  Mascrofini  and  Pacetti;  in  po- 

M. —  I   — inomy,   Morichiii'f,   in  ta- 

Conli,     ilieelidiucb,    >nd< 


aP*^ 


Loub 


of  astronomy  and 


il  history,  nnd  the  great  hull  of 
the  seminary  called  the  Aula  hbii- 
ma.  one  of  the  finest  rooms  in  Vjsok. 
Much  Mluable  property  was  hat  ia 
theilameE,buItbeKircberian  Musounr 
I'ibrary  fortunately  escaped 


llie 


works 


collected  by  Jetuit  misBionatie^  ud 
some  ediiiuns  of  the  clashes  wilb  not«s 
by  Quccil  ChristlDB  of  Swedin.  It 
was  formerly  celebrated  fur  its  litemy 
treasures,  liut  many  of  tlie  molt  falur 
able  works  haie  disappeared.  The 
museum  of  Father  Kircher  oontaiiu 
a  curious  collection  of  antii]uitiea  and 
other  objects,  many  of  which  are  mora 
interesting  as  curiosities  than  {nun 
their  scientific  value.  The  calnnel  of 
medals  contains  a  complete  series  of 
Itoman  and  Etruscan  coins,  and  tbe 
most  perfect  known  eolleclion  of  the 
ltomjin.<».  These  have  been  ananged 
by  P.  Marchi  on  an  original  and  in- 
genious eystern,  showing  the  roUtionH 
of  the  early  cities  of  Italy.  So  Sir  as 
the  coins  hsTe  yet  lieen  identified,  the 
researches  of  P.  March!  have  esta- 
blished the  eiistenee  of  forty  diatinot 
coinages  prior  to  the  foundation  of 
Home.  The  Etruscan  antiquiUea  ai 
the  museum  were  long  considered 
Gregorian  oolteetion 


l\o\^ct 


:  sltade. 


The  m 


Papal  States."]  r.  27. — Rome. — Academies  {St.  Luke^  etc.).  525 


a  CTlindrical  vase  and  cover  of  bronre, 
ornamented  with  exquisite  engravings 
of  the  Argonaiitic  expedition;  the  up- 
right figures  on  the  lid  are  beauti« 
fully  worked.  Among  the  other  spe- 
cimens of  Etruscan  workmanship  are 
chains,  bracelets,  necklaces,  and  other 
ornaments.  The  bronzes  and  terra- 
cottas are  also  interesting,  but  do 
not  require  a  particular  description. 
Among  the  curiosities  is  the  sword  of 
the  Constable  de  Bourbon,  of  Indian 
steel,  bearing  his  name  on  the  blade 
and  that  of  two  Italian  generals,  to 
whom  it  had  previously  belonged. 
[Ladies  are  not  admitted  to  this 
museum.] 

CoUegio  de  Propagandd  Fide,  in  the 
Piazza  di  Spagna.  The  establish- 
ment of  the  Propaganda  was  founded 
in  1622  by  Gregory  XV.,  for  the 
purpose  of  educating  as  missionaries 
young  foreigners  from  infidel  or  here- 
tical countries,  who  might  afterwards 
return  and  spread  the  Catholic  faith 
among  their  own  countrymen.  Tlie 
present  building  was  erected  by  Ur- 
ban VIII.  from  the  designs  of  Ber- 
nini, and  completed  under  the  direc* 
tion  of  Borromini.  The  celebrated 
printing-office  established  here  by  this 
pontiff  is  rich  in  Oriental  characters, 
and  has  produced  many  works  of 
great  typographical  beauty.  The 
annual  examination  of  the  pupils, 
which  takes  place  in  September,  is 
an  interesting  scene,  which  few  tra- 
vellers who  are  then  in  Rome  omit 
to  attend. 

Academy  of  St  Luke, — The  Roman 
Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  was  founded 
in  1588  by  Sixtus  V.,  who  endowed 
tjie  Confraternitd  of  painters  with  llie 
church  Adjoining,  formerly  dedicated 
to  St.  Martin.  The  academy  is  com- 
posed of  ])aintcrs,  sculptors,  and  archi- 
tects, who  direct  the  schools  of  the 
fine  arts.  In  the  apartments  are  pre- 
served several  works  of  art,  which 
will  repay  a  visit.  Among  these  are 
landscapes  by  Gasfxtr  Poussin  and 
Salvntor  Ro9a  ;  a  beautiful  picture  of 
St.  I^uke  taking  the  portrait  of  tlie 
Virgin,  attributed  to  Raphael}  a  frag- 


ment of  a  fine  fresco  by  the  same 
master ;  the  Saviour  with  the  Phari- 
see, by  Titian;  Fortune  by  Guide ; 
and  a  bust  of  Canova,  by  the  Spanish 
sculptor  Alvarez,  presented  as  a  testi- 
mony of  gratitude  for  Canova*s  patron- 
age. During  the  French  occupation 
of  Madrid,  Alvarez  oflTered  to  sell 
some  of  his  works  to  Eugene  Beau- 
harnois,  who  consulted  Canova  on 
the  subject.  His  answer  was  quite 
in  accordance  with  his  usual  genero- 
sity towards  the  artists  of  all  coun- 
tries: *<the  sculptures  of  Alvarez," 
he  said,  "  remain  on  sale  in  his  studio* 
because  they  are  not  in  mine."  The 
collection  of  portraits  includes,  like 
that  of  Florence,  a  great  number  of 
artists  of  more  or  less  repute ;  many 
are  those  of  living  professors.  The 
skull  so  long  preserved  here  with 
veneration  as  that  of  Raphael,  has 
been  proved,  since  the  discovery  of 
his  body  in  the  Pantheon,  to  be  that 
of  Desiiierio  de'  Adjutori,  a  person  of 
no  reputation  for  genius  either  in 
art  or  letters.  The  inscription  writ- 
ten by  Bembo  deserves  to  be  re* 
corded :  — 

'*  Ille  hie  est  Raphael,  tixnuit  quo  sosptte  vind 
Rerum  magna  pareus,  et  inorieute  xnori.** 

Accademia  Archeoloyica,  one  of  the 
most  eminent  antiquarian  societies  of 
Italy,  including  among  its  members 
some  of  the  most  learned  archaeolo- 
gists of  Europe.  It  has  published 
several  volumes  of  transactions.  The 
duties  of  permanent  president  arc  sus- 
tained by  Prince  Pietro  Odescalchi, 
the  representative  of  one  of  the  most 
distinguished  families  in  Italy. 

Accademia  dArcadicu  —  Few  of  the 
Italian  societies  are  so  celebrated  as 
the  Arcadian  Academy  of  Rome, 
founded  in  1690  by  Gravina  and  Cres- 
cimbeni.  Its  laws,  says  Mr.  Spald- 
ing, <*  were  drawn  out  in  ten  tables, 
in  a  style  imitating,  the  ancient  Ro- 
man. The  constitution  was  declared 
republican;  the  first  magistrate  was 
styled  custos;  the  members  were 
cidled  shepherds;  it  was  solemnly 
enacted  thai  theu  tL^T&iVxEt  iAcx^\i\.^\!^^ 


'-8S6   m«WTE  97.— HOME.— .JBwfewto (lVgfti«wii7i*l<jt(-T Seet. I. 


K.I  lite  I 


LimlifT  t>r  futm*  i 


■dmit 


iii<i    I 


look  a  pMloril  nnme,   at 
ArMili*"  mma  uiignccl  ti 

lion*  of  the  tncctinf^  vu  to  be 
.d»«l«l  wholly  in  the  allei^orical 
|Hgnag»>  nnd  the  tiKecbvs  nnd  verwH 
m  inueli  (o  ■■  pMiiible.  The  tita  of 
Ika  acxdem^  «-»  to  rescue  lilenry 
(acts  from  the  prcTiiienl  corruption! 
,  of  ihclimri  tho  purpose,  the  whiin, 
■ad  Ibe  celebrity  of  untie  «nionf;  the 
ariginalora,  mnie  it  instantly  fashion-  \ 
■1>lrt  ami  in  a  few  yean  it  uumbCTCcI 
tbeat  SntX)  members,  propagatinf;  it- 
■f  by  colonien  nil  oTBr  Ilnly.  The 
MKMtation  completely  tailed  in  iti 
proposed  denign.  hut  ils  brce  was 
played  with  all  gravity  during  the 
IHth  oentury ;  and  besides  Italians, 
•Eircel;  nny  dirtinguUhed  foreigner 
could  escape  from  the  City  of  the , 
SerenHills  without  having  entered  its 
ranks.  In  ITSB,  Goelliewas  enrolled 
■a  an  Aruadian,  by  the  title  of  Me- 
galio  MelpoiBBnlo;  and  receired, 
under  the  iGsdemie  seal,  a  grant  of  the 
lands  entillcd  the  Mdpomenean  C^el  ds, 
aacred  to  the  Tragic  Muse.  The' 
Arcadia  hiv^  survivco  all  the  changes  I 
of  Italy  :  it  still  balds  its  meetings  in  j 
Home,  liiitens  to  pastoral  Hinnets,  and  | 
chiiitens  lulian  clergymen,  English  I 
aquiies,  and  German  counsellors  of 
■tate  by  the  names  of  the  heathens.  | 
It  publishes,  moreover,  a  regular  jour- 
nal, the  Giomalc  Arcadieo ;  which, 
although  it  is  n  favoarlte  object  of 
ridicule  irith  the  men  of  letters  in 
Other  prorincea,  particularly  the  Mi- 
lanese, in  their  Biblioteca  Ilaliana, 
condescencts  to  follow  slowly  the  pro- 
gress of  knowledge,  and  often  fur- 
nishes (breigners  with  interesting  in- 
formntion,  not  only  literary  but  scien- 
tific." Tlie  meetings  take  place  erery 
Friday  in  the  Protomoteca  of  the 
Capitol. 

Aceademia  dt'  Lincti,  the  earliest 
BcientiBc  society  in  Italy,  founded  in 
1G03  by  Galileo,  and  other  contem- 
porary philosophers.  It  was  re-or- 
gaaised  in  1795,  and  is 


to  natural  btit«rir  and  science.  Tbe 
meetings  are  held  in  Ibe  tipper  roomi 
of  the  Palace  of  the  Senator. 

Ti&fl-i'iui,ft>und«din1Sl^ 
forthe  promotion  of  hist orii 
especially    those   relating 
'liie  meeting  take  place  eren;  Moi 
day  in  the  Palaiio  Macarini. 

Accadtmia  FHarmottica,  an  inatilifll 
lion  of  recent  date,  whose  fin 
alTord  the  most  agreeable  proof  of  tli»| 
"    '     '  To  BDiong  I' " 


respective  countries,  are  hoarded  b] 
their  gov  ernm  en  la  for  a  eertoin  period. 
The  Acndemv  of  France  is  lodged  'a 
the  Villa  Medici,  on  tfae  Finciaa;' 
thsl  of  Florence  in  the  Falazm  A 
Firenie,  near  the  Borghese  Palaeel 
and    that    of  Naples    in     ■       " 


supported  by  the  Hanoverian  MiDia<i 
ler,  and  by  most  of  the  distingui 
resident  foreigners.      Travellers 
■ofiling  by  their 


.  Romi 


should   T 


members.  Many  emmeiit  Prruat 
scholars  have  been  lecturers  at  t 
Institute,  and  the  names  of  PIstiti 
Bunsen,  Riistell,  Gerhard, 
and  Braun,  arc  to  be  found 
published, 
ngs  are  neiil  weekly  at  (hi 
alaee  on  the  Capitol,  when  ft 
on  various  lo  pics  connected  1  ' 
can  and  Roman  antiqnitiea 


has  corresponding  eon 
don,  Paris,  and  Bcrll 


Pi^l  States,']    R.  27. — Rome. — Hospitals  and  Charities.     527 


Hospitals  and  Charitablx  In- 
stitutioms. 

No  city  in  Italy  is  so  much  distin- 
guished by  its  works  of  charity  as 
Rome;  and  no  hospitals  in  Europe 
are  lodged  in  such  magnificent  pa- 
laces, or  endowed  with  greater  libe* 
rality.     Tlie  Romans  boast  that  there 
is  no  city  of  the  world  in  which  so 
large  a  sum  is  devoted  to  institutions 
of  charity,  in  proportion  to  the  popu- 
lation.    The  annual  revenue  of  these 
establishments  is  not  less  than  840,000 
flcudi,  of  which  540,000  are  derived 
from  endowments,  and  300,000,  in- 
cluding 40,000  from  a  tax   on  the 
lottery,  are  contributed  from  the  papal 
treasury.     The  hospitab  can  accom- 
modate altogether  about  4000  patients, 
at  an  average  cost  of  two  pauls  a-day 
each  person.    The  maximum  of  deaths 
is  1 1*60  per  cent.,  the  minimum  5*43. 
Notwithstanding   their  rich   endow- 
ments the  hospitals  are  not  so  well 
kept  as  those  of  Tuscany,  or  of  the 
chief  provincial  cities  of  the   Papal 
States.     "  The  priests,**  as  Dr.  Fraser 
tells  us,  **  seem  to  have  more  power 
than  the  physicians,  and  the  profes- 
sional traveller  will  detect  many  con- 
siderable  faults   in   the   clinical  ar- 
rangements, which  the  medical  officers 
ought   to   have  sufficient  energy  to 
remove.**     The  principal  hospital  is 
that  of  Santo  Spirito,   on   the  right 
bank  of  the  Tiber,  founded  in  1198 
by  Innocent  III.,  and  so  richly  en- 
dowed, that  it  has  acquired  the  title 
of  **  il  p'ixk  gran  signore  di  Ronm.** 
It  contains  the  hospital  for  males  of 
all  classes,  the   Foundling  Hospital, 
and  the  Lunatic  Asylum.     The  hos- 
pital, properly  so  called,  contains  1616 
beds  ;  the  average  number  of  patients 
annually    is     13,491;    the     average 
deaths  arc  8.27  per  cent.     According 
to  Dr.  Fraser,  "the  beds  are  not  clean, 
and  the  rooms  are  badly  ventilated. 
A  clinical  ward  is  attached,  in  which 
lectures  arc  given  daily,     llie  mu- 
seum is  not  rich,  and  seems  to   be 
ncf^lected;    the  library  contains  the 
collections  of  books  and  instruments 


bequeathed  by  the  celebrated '  Lan- 
cisi.**  The  Foundling  Hospital  in 
1846  contained  3150  foundlings,  viz. 
1350  males  and  1800  females.  The 
number  annually  received  is  about 
800.  The  mortality  is  immense ;  out 
of  3840  children  deposited  in  the  five 
years  from  1829  to  1833,  no  less  than 
2941  'died,  being  more  than  72  per 
cent.  In  addition  to  this  there  are 
other  foundling  hospitals  in  other 
parts  of  Rome,  which  swell  the  num- 
ber of  children  to  upwards  of  3000 
annually,  and  offer  such  fiicilities,  that 
abandoned  children  are  brought  to 
Rome  from  all  parts  of  the  States, 
and  even  fh>m  the  kingdom  of  Naples. 
SantUtimo  Scdwxtore,  founded  by  Car- 
dinal Colonna  in  1216,  for  females, 
with  578  beds.  The  average  number 
of  patients  annually  is  3054 ;  the 
average  deaths  are  14  per  cent.  The 
Lunatic  Asylum  contains  420  beds. 
The  average  number  of  patients  an- 
nually is  493 ;  the  average  deaths 
are  nearly  11  per  cent.  The  old 
system  of  restraint  is  pursued,  with 
all  its  manifold  objections.  —  iS^. 
Giaeomo  in  Augusta,  a  surgical  and 
lock  hospital  for  both  sexes,  with 
384  beds.  The  average  number  of 
patients  annually  is  2068 ;  the  aver- 
age deaths  are  1 1  per  cent.  S,  Gal- 
Heano,  in  the  Trastevere,  a  fine  build- 
ing, for  cutaneous  diseases,  with  238 
beds,  llie  average  number  of  patients 
is  546;  the  average  deaths  are  5 
per  cent.  —  La  Cotuolazione,  at  the 
I  foot  of  the  Capitol,  a  surgical  hospi- 
tal :  founded  as  far  back  as  the  year 
1045.  The  number  of  beds  amounts 
to  157.  All  the  cases  of  stabbing 
'  are  taken  to  this  hospital.  The  aver- 
age number  of  patients  annually  is 
900;  the  average  deaths  are  rather 
more  than  5  per  cent.  —  S,  Giaeomo^ 
near  the  Corso,  for  incurables ;  with 
384  beds.  The  average  number  of 
patients  per  annum  is  2068;  the 
deaths  about  12  per  cent — Benfi-aieUi, 
or  tlie  Hospital  of  S.  Giovanni  Cala- 
bita,  deriving  its  more  recent  name 
from  its  motto.  Fate  bene,  firatetti,  "  Do 
good,    bietVvt«iir    t^vwAa^  >a>j    ^^ 


mmrrtVI^^TtQUK^—Ho^tUaltaadCAaritiM.  fSect.'] 


t  Wd  ilill  frrvrd  lijr 
\  tdcn  of  (lie  ordm 
I  34  beil^  *Dd   w  BpiirQiiridcd  cbieflj' 


Its,    or    ponoiis    •lio    hud     been    uttled  | 
s)ii-    Htp  jenri  iii  Rami',  or  fbreignercv 
luly    Imd  nmtried   Roman   voinen.       T 

■llulted  by  eontnct,  ui  J 


The  avcragG  number   ilio   aystem   and    diKipline    follawEil  I 


f  af  iMlienti  ■nnusll;  »  74;  Iht 
'  Mft  doKlii  aio  upwards  of  7  pec  i 
—  5.  TViBi'td  di'  Pilhjrini,  ncai 
Monte  di  Pieta,  institulcd  for  ; 
oonTaleieenti,  wlio  arc  receiied 
tat  thrrc  days  or  more  on  Ich 
the  other  hoipilals.  llie  tiuiiibi 
bedi  It  4B8 :  the  average  niimbi 
coDvale*e«nU  annuallf  19  7011.- 
Aoeev.  •  lying-in  hospital, 
bed*.   TbeaTeTif!enuinbet< 


itary  a>  far  as  poslble.  Alwul  J 
'nt.  5000  workinen  v-ere  organised  in  i' 
Ibe  .  companies  of  500  each  ;  every  com-  ■ 
nor  pany  haring  one  director,  five  auiil-  I 
ere  ant^  S5  sergeants,  and  50  corporiti,  I 
jng  '  elioien  ftom  the  vorknien.  Tlwif  | 
iber  ori  labours  veto  confined  ti 
ibcr  of  earthworks,  and  street  sweeping,  and  I 

S.  I  were  paid  for  by  the  piece.      It  vsi  J 

ilh  SO  '  iioped  by  tliese  means  tliat  habits  et  ^ 

slienls  industry  might  be  inlro 

ins.  —  in   anmiton   to   the  men,  in  >pile  of  all  the  disapline 

there  are  several  private  regulation!,  used  to  throw  out  scmits 

■'  '  ■   ■■  -  .  (Q  warn  them  of  the  approach  of  the 

French  inspector,  and  all  the  time  he 


.and  national   hospitals, 

■oricties   for    bestowing   dowries   on 

girls  at  their  marriage,  and  presents 

on  their  taking  the  veil.      More  than 

three-rountis  of  the  women  annually  |  nl; 

tnarried  receive  these 

the  public   purte;  and  no  lets  than    ord 

■•         8O0O(.,nreeipendedJBbh 


sight  prel 


ndedtc 


PS9,00Osi 
h  thiim 
dngle  J. 
pulei  fro 
30,000  t, 
cfaarilv. 


:     Tlie 
his  priv 


pope 


distrihutK 


sidiea 


1 1  amount  of 

179,000  scudi.     All  this  is  indepen- 

',  of  the  lar^e  sums  distributed  by 

looal  confraternitis.      It  will  no 

ibl  surprise  the  Iravellci 


rolusii 


orohai 


ihould  be  so 
ques- 


the  mendicity  of  Hi 
■ppsreot  i  but  there  can  oe 
tian  that  the  immense  fundi 
expended  are  lavished  in  ii 
nate  and  iqjuillcioua  charity,  wiiiuli 
offen  a  premium  to  idleness,  and 
creates  the  vcrv  misery  which  it  is  so 
In  1849,  sonn  after 
the  French, 

tc-organisB  the 
Jfoi^cenia,  wiin  Uie  view  of  supply. 
ing  work  to  all  able-bodlE  ' 


JFiendi  authorit 


^  establish  a  poor-housi 

for  nil  who  were  unable  to  work,  it 
order  to  put  an  end  to  the  intermia- 

■Itegging  in  tile  eitj- 
remains  to  be  seen  how  far  theae  ar- 
mngemunts  have  been  eflectual. 

'llie  Hospital  qf  San  Micheh,  at  the  . 
Uipa  Grande,  on  tlie  right  bank  of  the 
Tiber,  is  an  immense  establishment, 
begun  by  Innocent  Xll.  In  1686,  and 
finished  by  Clement  XI,  and  Pius  — 

cliildreu,  and  fur  aeed 


kout  employmi 
initled  to  par 
]fges  of  the  ii 


Non 


fl  house  of  industry  fo 
bolh  seies,  a  house  of  , 
juvenileoHenders  and  women,  OD  v^ 
lum  fur  old  people,  and  a  schoot  of 
arts  in  wliich  drawing,  painting,  aiw 

gratuitously  taught  to  the  children  UF 
the  poor.  It  contains  also  twenty- 
five  hand  looms,  vhich  have  hithert<t> 
supplied  the  papal  Iroops  and  thfl' 
apostolical  palaces.  The  wool  used; 
has  been  entirely  of  native  produce  ; 
the  spinning  aud  warping  have  bees 
donu  by  liand,  chiefly  by  the  womea 
CQiAweOi  \(i  IJnw  \i\wms.    The  Dumber; 


Papal  Statei.']    R.  27.— ROUK.- 

«f  persons  employed  in  the  establish-  I 
ment  ii  upwards  of  800,  but  tlie  quan- 
tity of  cloth  hitherto  produced  hu. 
been  onl;  about  80,000  jards;  an  | 
■mount  lo  small,  rram  the  abseoee  of  i 
nuehiiKrjr,  that  its  cost  has  ftt  lur- 
fnised  the  ordinary  price  in  the  ' 
nurket.  The  recent  introduction  of' 
cotton  and  woollen  apinning  framear 
hovcTer,  will  loon  produce  a  difiereni 
result.  A  manufactory  of  tapestry  is 
dependent  on  the  school  of  arts,  and 
makes  good  progress.  The  educa-  ' 
tional  system  licgun  by  Cardinal  ' 
Tosti  has  hcen  attended  with  great  ] 
■diantages,  and  the  hospital  haa  the 
credit  i^  producing  some  Tcry  able  | 
worknnen.  The  introduction  of  mo-  ' 
dem  improvements  in  manufacture, 
■re  the  chief  objecutobedeured:  tht 


■^fftith  Smial-ground.      529 
Shelley.  CorCordium.  NatusivAag. 


Tlie  c 


I    Cor    Cordim 


I,  "the 
.n  allu- 


eicellen 


dinal  under  whose  constant  and  un- 
remitting labours  it  has  attained  ill 
present  stale  of  usefulness. 

Ehousb  BvaiAi^oROUNS. 
The  English  Burial-ground  it  one 
«r  those  objects  which  traTellers  of  all 
classes  and  of  all  tastes  will  regard 
with  melancholy  intcresL  It  U  situ- 
ated near  the  Porta  San  Paolo,  close 
to  the  Pyramid  of  CaiusCeslius.  The 
silence  and  seclusion  of  the  spot,  and 
Ibe  inscriptions  which  tell  the  British 
Intcller  in  his  native  tonf^e  of  those 
who  boTC  found  their  last  resting- 
place  beneath  the  bright  skies  of  the 
Eternal  City,  appeal  irresistibly  to 
the  heart.  The  cemetery  has  an  air  I 
of  romantic  beauty,  which  fomii  a  j 
■trikini;  contrast  with  the  tomb  of: 
and  with  the  mas-  ! 


rails  I 


towers  which  flank  ll 


Among 

are'  buried  here  are  the  poets  Shelley 
and  Keats,  lliclmrd  Wyatl,the  sculp- 
tor, and  John  Veil,  the  celebrated 
anatomist.  The  grave  of  Shelley  is 
in  the  old  burial-ground,  close  to  that 
of  one  of  bis  children.  The  ToUowiDg 
is  the  inwriptioQi— ■*  Pney  Byssbe 
Ceiif.  & 


sion  to  the  remarkable  tact,  that  when 
his  body  was  burnt  on  the  shores  of  the 
gulf  of  Speiia,  the  heart  was  the  only 
portion  that  the  fire  diil  not  consume. 
In  the  adjoining  ecmclery  is  the  gravB 
aft\\i  friend,  John  Keals,  with  the  fol- 
lowing inscription  :  —  "  Tim  grave 
contains  alt  that  nas  mortal  cf a  young 
English  poet,  who,  on  his  denth-bed, 
in  the  bitterness  of  his  heart  at  the 
malicious  po<ver  of  his  enemies,  de- 
sired these  words  to  be  engraved  on 
his  tombstone, '  Here  lies  one  whose 
name  was  writ  in  water.*  February 
S4.  18S1."  By  tai  the  greater  num- 
ber of  monuments  bear  the  names  of 
Englishmen;  the  other  Protestants 
interred  here  are  chiefly  Germans  and 
Sniss.  Tlie  monuments  atK  in  belter 
taste  than  those  of  the  English  ce- 
metery at  Leghorn,  and  some  of  them 
have  considerable  pretensions  as  works 
of  art.  The  ground  is  well  kept ;  tfaa 
deep  trench  which  surrounds  it  was 
cut  at  the  expense  of  the  papal  go- 
burial-ground  was  also  enclosed.  A 
sum  of  money  amounting  lo  about 
1000  scudi,  (ubscrilied  by  British  and 
German  Prof cslanti,  is  invested  jntlio 
noman  funds,  the  interest  of  which  is 
applied  to  defray  the  salary  of  astitoo 
and  the  expenses  of  repairs, 

Tlie  description  of  the   Protestant 
burial -ground,  wliere  so  many  monu- 

men  who  have  visited  Rome  in  thti 
pursuit  of  health,  naturally  leads  10 
the  consideration  of  the  climate.  Sir 
James  Clark,  in  his  work  on  Climate, 
describes  it  as"  mild  and  soft,  but  rB> 
therrclaiingandoppressive.  Itsmean 
annual  temperature  is  10°  lil);hvr 
IhiD  that  of  Landno,  1°  bftWn  'Cisu.  >A 


I 


ind  Pro. 


H>l>)«.and  4«  Mow Ihol of  Mudel™. 
The  mraii  Mmporalura  of  n-iiiter  still 
tenwbi  10=  hiKber  Uun  tlmt  of  Lon- 
don, aai  ii  tomewlial  higher  Uun  that 
i«rKiqilM,bul  ii  ll°colileTtbaIiMa- 
~  'ni  In  ipring  tbc  mean  tempi^ra- 
r  ii  S°  aboTc  I.od(1qd,  1°  colder 
Uun  Nspln.  and  only  >  little  more 
ihan  4°  colder  than  Madeira.  In 
range  of  temperalur 
■dvantagi:  of  Naples, 
veitcew  tJUt  not  of  Nice,  its  uiumai 
iMige  u  nearlj  double  that  of  Lon- 
doa,  Penaance,  and  Madeira.  In 
aUodincu  of  temperature  from  day  to 
da;  Rome  comes  after  Madeira,  Nice, 
I^  and  Penisnce,  but  precedca  Na- 
ples and  Fau.~  In  regard  tomoiuure, 
St  J.  Clark  »;■  that  <•  Rome,  al- 
Ibotigh  a  lod,  cannot  t>e  considered  a 
damp  climat«.  Upon  comparmg  it 
villi  the  dry,  parching  climate  of 
^oienee,  and  with  that  of  Niee,  wc 
find  that  about  one-third  more  rain 
fall),  and  on  a  greater  number  of  days. 
It  ii,  boveier,  cotuideialily  drier  than 
Pin,  and  very  much  drier  than  the 
soulh-veit  of  France."  To  these  ob- 
■ervBlions  we  may  add  that  the  G'osls 
which  occur  in  January  are  not  of 
long  continuance,  tiwjuenti  y  occ  urr  I  Tig 
during  the  night  and  disappearing 
befbrc  the  aoon-day  lun.  Tlic  ther- 
mometer in  an  ordinary  winter  sel- 
dom blls  lower  than  26°  Fahrenheit 
Siiow  is  nut  common,  and  seldom  lies 
on  the  ground  fbr  more  than  twenty- 
feur  houn.  The  tramontana,  or  dry 
north  wind,  prevails  often  for  a  eon- 
raderable  time  during  the  winter  and 
spring;  when  long- continued,  it  is 
moderate  and  agreeable;  hut  it  is 
BOmetimes  harsh  and  penetrating  and 
attended  with  severe  storms,  which  sel- 
dora  extend hej  ond  three  days. 


>  influen. 

rilywhiel 


^ 


Another  local  iKCttU 


ind,altho« 


hreioi 


and  enervating,  produces  littli 

ce  during  the  winter  monins ;  in 
■  i  debilitating  cftbets  arc 
ent  and  oppressive.  All 
ome  agree  in  regarding  Hie 
liately  lollotviug  sunset  as 
mheflilhy  part  of  l!ie  day, 
r  espeeioHy  few  ot 


gulsrity  with  which  the  Bomans  i 
the  lunny  side  of  the  street -.*il 
common    saying  that  none   but 
glishmen  and  do^  u-alk  in  the 
shine  at  Rome,  and  tlie  practii 
our    oDuntrymeu    certainly   jua 
the   proverb.      In   a   city   biult 
Rome  'the  native  praotioe  in  tbia  iirf 
stance  is  unquestionably  eorrect;  Ut 
the  T^id  transition  from  a  pc 
sun  to  shady  streets  open  to  IL 
aod  piercing  spring  winds  is  ai 
felt  by  invalids.      The  maliiTia 
'  ■  •    •      f  eiisted  sinoo  the  time  4 
id  Horace,    have    no  doubt 
~  by  the  depopulatian  of 
the  country,      liey  are  described  by 
Sit  James  Clark  as  "  exactly  of  tiw 

genera!  cliaraelers,  as  the  fevers  whiA 
are  so  common  in  the  fens  of  Iiiucolu. 
shire  and  Essex  in  our  own  country, 
in  Holland,  and  in  certain  distriaia 
over  the  greater  part  of  the  globet 
The  form  and  aspect  under  wbich 
these  fevers  appear  may  differ  aoeord- 
ing  to  the  com  '  "' 


r  toH 


culiot 


themselves  \ 


the  □ 

in  which  t 
same  disease,  from  the  fens  of  Idov 
culnshire  and  the  swamps  of  WaU 
eheren  to  the  pEstilential  ehorea  of 
Alrica,  only  iucreased  in  aeverilji,' 
caieria  jmribug,  as  the  temperature  ofi 
the  climate  increases.  Malaria  ftvov 
seldom  appear  at  Rome  before  July^ 
ind  they  cease  about  October,  a  p»> 
iod  during  which  few  strangers  reni' 
there.  The  fevers  of  this  kind  whii 
Kcur  at  other  seasons  are  geoerally) 
■elapses,  or  complicated  with  otfaer> 
liseases.  One  of  the  most  Jrequraiti 
iiciting  causes  of  this  fever  ia  ex-, 
posure  to  currents  of  cold  air,  or  chUbi 
.  places,  immediately  after  itiei 
body  has  been  heated  by  eierGisc  ai  ' 

ipiring.     Tliis  is  a  ma 

frecjuent  source  of  other  diseaaeB  all 

nong  strangers  in  Italy,  Ihan  ia  g 

irally  believed  by  those  who  are  ul 

inuanAtti  wilVv  the   nature    of  tl 


Papal  StatesJ]    route  27.—  home. — Climate. 


581 


fluence  of  the  sun,  especially  in  thie 
springs  may  also  be  an  exciting  cause : 
it  has  certainly  appeared  to  roe  to 
produce  relapses.  Another  cause  of  I 
this  disease  is  improper  diet.  An  idea  | 
prevails  that  fuU  living  and  a  liberal  | 
allowance  of  wine  are  necessary  to 
preserve  health  in  situations  subject 
to  malaria.  This  is  an  erroneous 
opinion,  and  I  have  known  many 
persons  suffer  in  Italy  from  acting  on 
it**  Sir  James  Clark  also  remarks  the 
exemption  of  the  populous  parts  of 
large  towns,  in  consequence  of  the 
greater  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  and 
adds,  **  a  person  may,  I  believe,  sleep 
with  perfect  safety  in  the  centre  of 
the  Pontine  marshes  by  having  his 
Toom  kept  well  heated  by  a  fire  dur- 
ing the  night."  According  to  the 
experience  of  the  Romans,  the  mias« 
mata  which  produce  malaria  fevers 
rise  chiefly  from  the  Campagna,  and 
from  the  damp  grounds  of  the  de- 
serted villas:  they  are  dense  and 
heavy,  hanging  upon  the  ground  like 
the  night  fogs  of  Essex,  and  seldom 
rising  in  calm  weather  more  than  five 
or  six  feet  above  its  surface.  They 
are  invariably  dispelled  by  fire,  and 
their  advance  is  prevented  by  walls 
and  houses.  Hence  we  find  that  the 
convents  on  some  of  the  hilb  within 
the  immediate  circuit  of  the  city  walls 
are  occupied  from  year  to  year  by  re- 
ligious communities  without  incon- 
venience, while  it  would  be  dangerous 
to  sleep  outside  the  same  walls  for  a 
single  night.  Nothing  is  now  better 
understood  than  that  the  progress  of 
malaria  at  Rome  is  dependent  on  the 
state  of  the  population.  Whenever  the 
population  has  diminished,  the  dis- 
trict in  which  the  decrease  has  taken 
place  has  become  unhealthy ;  and 
whenever  a  large  number  of  persons 
has  been  crowded  into  a  confined 
space,  as  in  the  Ghetto  and  the  Tras- 
tevere,  the  healthiness  of  the  atmo- 
sphere lias  become  apparent  in  spite  of 
the  filthy  habits  of. the  people.  The 
Roman  writers,  who  have  collected 
some  curious  proofs  of  these  fiicts, 
state  that  street  pavements  and  the 


foundations  of  houses  eiTectually  de- 
stroy malaria  by  preventing  the  ema- 
nation of  the  miasmata ;  and  that 
whenever  a  villa  and  its  gatdens  are 
abandoned  by  the  owners  as  a  mere 
appendage  to  the  family  palace,  the 
site  becomes  unhealthy,  and  remains 
so  as  long  as  it  continues  uninhabited. 
It  is  also  well  known  that  the  body 
is  more  susceptible  of  the  influence 
of  malaria  during  sleep  than  when 
awake :  hence  the  couriers  who  carry 
the  mails  at  all  seasons  between  Rome 
and  Naples  make  it  a  rule  not  to 
sleep  during  the  passage  of  the  Pon- 
tine marshes,  and  generally  smoke  as 
an  additional  security.  In  regard  to 
Rome  as  a  residence  for  invalids,  it  is 
generally  considered  one  of  the  best 
places  in  Italy  in  the  early  stages  of 
consumption.  In  this  class  of  pa- 
tients, the  symptoms  which  had  con- 
tinued during  the  whole  journey 
frequently  disappear  after  a  short 
residence ;  but  in  the  advanced  stages 
the  disease  generally  proceeds  more 
rapidly  than  in  England.  In  bron- 
chial affections  and  in  chronic  rheu- 
matism Sir  James  Clark  has  found  it 
beneficial;  but  **with  persons  disposed 
to  apoplexy,  or  who  have  already  su£> 
fered  from  paralytic  affections,  and 
valetudinarians  of  a  nervous  melan- 
cholic temperament,  or  subject  to  men- 
tal despondency,  the  climate  of  Rome 
does  not  agree :  in  many  such  cases, 
indeed,  a  residence  at  Rome  is  fraught 
with  danger;  nor  is  it  proper  for 
persons  disposed  to  luemorrhagic  di- 
seases, or  for  those  who  have  suffered 
from  intermittent  fevers.**  The  fol- 
lowing excellent  remarks  are  of  great 
importance  to  the  invalid :  —  **  There 
is  no  place  where  so  many  temptations 
exist  to  allure  him  from  the  kind 
of  life  which  he  ought  to  lead.  The 
cold  churches,  and  the  still  colder  mu- 
seums of  the  Vatican  and  the  Capitol, 
the  ancient  baths,  &c.,  are  full  of 
danger  to  the  delicate  invalid  ;  and  if 
his  visits  be  long  or  frequently  re- 
peated, he  had  better  have  remained 
in  his  own  country.  When  an  in- 
valid does  tentute  \xv\a  \}(>ftxciV\s  vv«^. 


{ 


sovTE  97.-^iioM«.— nfb»(jMtAnJ^. 


Dulil  be  uliort,  nnd  bs  tliould  clioow  t 

a   milil    w«mi    dij.      Ii    is  a  i 

.      jt  mWWke  lo  imagWhW  whcii  i 

e  in  MUh  ■>  P'oe  '!>*  ''*''  >■  tlone.  j 

^  thai  one  may  an  wtll  rtmiiin  to  i 
■  thi!  Ihiog  fully.      Tliis  i«  br  frai 


glheei 


isliberBttitinnounecd  in  the  inscrip- 
«  on  the  peJcstnl  afsn  ancient  tUhie 

that  park :  Qiuiqiiit  st,  »  //Inr,  fe- 
mamipeilmeliiclinirai.  Itogvartlrt, 
lltn  tpia  ctipi',  abila  quasda  ivilei,"  tic 

FUla  Albani  (to  be  seen  an\j  bj  w 


I  the   Palana 


_  ...uch  led  dangerout  than  a  '  Albani,  or  at  Torlonia's),  bejroni)  tin 

n*.      The  Iiody   is  capable  of   Poria   Sslara,  hullt  in  tlie  middle  of 

Ining   iu  temperature    and  of  the  lait  cenlur;  by  Cardinal  Maaa- 

g  the  ii(juriou9  eBVeli  urn  cold    dro  AlbaiiL    The  design  was  entirdr 

■■tmoiphere.  for  a  certain  length    his  own,  and  wta  executed  under  luj 

a  wilb  coiiipBTatlve  impunity;    auperintendeucebj  Carlo  MBrchionm, 

the  intilid  remain  till  h«  be- 1  "  Here,"  says   Forsyth,  "  is  a  Tflla  ot 

t*  chilled,  and  till  the  blood  for.    exquisite  de«Ign,  planned   by  a  pro- 

S  (he  nirlaee  and  ettrcmitiei  and  |  found  aniiquu-y.     Here  Cardinal  Al- 

luponthe  iiiiernBl  organs,  he    bani.haiingtpent  his  life  in  collecting 

...iLlie  surprised  if  an  iiicreaie  '  ancient  sculpture,  formed  such  porti- 

Is  dlicate.  tfliclherof  the  lungs  or  i  cos  and  such  saloons  \a  receive  it  H 

~  I  digestive  o^ans,  be  the  con-  |  au    old    Roman   would    have    done: 

Tice    of   inch    exposure. 

'    upon  the  pavement   between  oolamni 


wanii  wcMlliet  of  sjiring  i 
I  patliculatly  when  made  on  horseback, 
^^^  another  and  a  ftetjueut  source  of 
^KlB^I'><:f  >o  delicBlo  imalids.' 

If  V... 

^^^  "A  tev  cardinals,"  sap  Forsyth, 
^  "  ereateil  all  the  great  TiUas  of  Rome. 
Their  riches,  their  tasle,  their  learn- 
ing, thuir  leisure,  their  frugalilyi  all 
BOiiipired  in  this  single  object.  While 
the  eminent  founder  was  squandering 
thouBuds  on  a  statue,  he  would  allot 
but  one  croivn  for  his  own  dinner. 
He  had  no  children,  no  stud,  no  dogt 
to  keep.  He  built,  indeed,  for  bis 
own  pleasure,  or  for  the  admiration  of 
others  1  but  he  embellished  his  coun- 
try, he  promoted  the  resort  of  rich  fo- 
Teigners,  and  he  afTorded  them  a  high 
Intellectual  treat  for  a  few  pauls, 
wbicU  never  entered  into  his  pocket. 
His  taste  gcnemlly  descends  to  bis 
Jieirs,  who  mark  their  little  reigns  by 
lUcccuiveadditionstothestock.  How 
great  fortunes  spent  so 
intly  in  England!  How  many 
'abeocbed  in    the  table,  the  Reld, 


bd  end  in  li.e 

rieh  egolist  himself. 

FWhat  tnglisii 

ills  is  open  like  the 

ommon  drive  lo  l\ie 

rbole  melropolb 

?     And  how  findy  i 

which  were  not  slocked  but  embd- 
lished  with  families  of  allied  statues, 
and  seemed  full  without  a  crowd- 
Here  Winckelmaim  grew  into  an  an- 
tiquary under  the  cardinal's  patiOD^e 
and  instruction  ;  and  lierehe  prc^^ 
bis  history  of  art,  which  bring;*  lht> 
collection  continually  inloview."  At 
■'  French  invasion  under  Napoleooi 
Albani  tiimity  incurred  the  Teo- 
1CG  of  tile  conquerors,  who  plun> 
dered  the  villa  of  294  pieces  of  ssulp- 
ture.  At  Ihepeaceof  1815,lhespoil^ 
which  had  actually  been  sent  to  Pari^ 
were  restored  to  Prince  Albani,  Vbo 
was  unable  to  incur  the  expense  ot 
their  removal,  and  therefore  sold  them 
all,  with  the  single  exception  of  the 
Antrnoii<k,  to  the  King  of  Bavaria, 
Notwithstanding  these  losses,  thenllBi 
is  still  rich  in  Grst-rate  works,  and  ia 
the  third  sculpture  gallery  in  Rotnc^ 
being  surpaised  only  by  the  Valieui 
and  the  Capitol. '  It  is  a  rare  exampla 
of  a  collection  in  which  the  primaiy 
in  the  va1u«  of 


the    objec 


and 


:    their 


bers.  Forlunutflj  for  the 
of  art,  the  mansion,  during  the  re- 
valutionary  (roubles  of  IR49,  Vta 
iMi  Kia    KiWavrt.  trowi  the  line  of  flro 


Papal  Suat».'\   ktouTB  27. —  rohe. — ViUat  (Albani), 


533 


the  **  Commission  of  Defence,**  which 
laid  waste  the  Borghese  park,  did  not 
order  it  to  be  sacrificed,  and  it  there- 
fore  remains  in  all  its  beauty,  with  its 
charming  grounds,  its  celebrated  sculp- 
tures, and  architectural  treasures ;  but 
the  whole  neighbourhood  is  a  ruin, 
and  the  contrast  is  the  more  striking 
from  seeing  the  magnificent  palace  so 
beautiful  in  the  midst  of  surrounding 
devastation.  I.  —  Tlie  Portico,  sus- 
tained by  twenty«eight  columns  of 
rare  marbles ;  the  principal  objects  are 
the  following :  —  A  statue  of  Juno 
XiUcina  (?)  bearing  a  torch,  in  the  act 
of  descending  from  Olympus  ;  statues 
of  Tiberius,  Lucius  Verus,  Trajan, 
33arcus  Aurelius,  Antoninus  Pius,  and 
Hadrian.  II. — The  Galleries  (on  the 
ground  floor),  chiefly  filled  with 
Hermes  or  termini  of  philosophers 
and  warriors,  of  doubtful  authenticity. 
1.  Of  the  eight  Hermes  in  this  divi- 
sion, only  two,  the  Epicurus  and  the 
Scipio  Africanus,  are  considered  genu* 
ine ;  the  others  bear  the  names  of  The- 
mistocles,  Hamilcar,  Leonidas,  Ma- 
sinissa,  Hannibal,  and  Alexander  the 
Great  The  other  sculptures  are,  — 
the  celebrated  Mercury,  with  a  Greek 
and  Latin  inscription ;  the  sitting  sta- 
tue of  the  young  Faustina,  full  of 
ease  and  grace,  found  near  the  Forum 
of  Nerva;  two  statues  of  Venus;  a 
Muse;  a  Faun;  and  a  priestess  of 
Isis  (?).  At  the  extremity  of  this 
division  is  the  Atrio  delle  Cariatide, 
decorated  with  rich  marbles,  and  so 
called  from  the  celebrated  Caryatid 
bearing  the  names  of  Kriton  and  Ni- 
colaos,  Athenian  sculptors  of  the  first 
age  of  the  empire,  and  from  the  two 
&nephorae,  of  beautiful  workman- 
ship, found  in  1761  near  Frascati. 
It  contains  also  a  graceful  vase ;  busts 
of  Vespasian,  Lucius  Verus,  and  Titus; 
and  a  colossal  nuisk  of  Silenus.  2. 
The  second  division  contains  eighteen 
Hermes,  of  which  only  two,  the  Eu- 
ripides and  the  Numa,  are  authentic, 
notwithstanding  the  names  inscrilied 
on  them;  a  female  statue  bearing  a 
flower,  in  the  style  of  the  ^ginetan 
marbles;   a  small   imitation  of  the 


Faun  of  Praxiteles  (p.  465) ;  two 
other  Fauns ;  statues  of  Diana,  Apollo, 
and  an  Etruscan  priestess.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  Gallery  is  the  Atrio 
di  Giunone,  corresponding  with  that  of 
the  Caryatides  :  it  contains  the  statue 
of  Juno,  two  Canephorse,  busts  of  L, 
Verus  and  M.  Aurelius,  bas-reliefs  of 
Socrates  and  Pertinax,  the  colossal 
head  of  a  river,  and  an  elegant  vase  of 
white  marble  with  six  figures  of  bac- 
chantes. III.  —  The  hnff  Gallery  of 
five  chambers.  1 .  Paved  with  ancient 
mosaic,  and  decorated  with  two  co- 
lumns of  jaspar  and  alabaster.  The 
latter  is  antique,  and  a  solid  mass :  it 
was  found  near  the  ancient  Navalia, 
in  the  Vigna  Cesarini :  the  other  is  of 
modem  Sicilian  jaspar,  in  three  pieces. 
The  sculptures  in  this  chamber  are 
the  two  Fauns;  a  sarcophagus  of  white 
marble,  with  the  beautiful  bas-reliefs 
of  the  marriage  of  Peleus  and  Thetis, 
pronounced  by  Winckelmann  to  be 
one  of  the  six  finest  bas-reliefs  in  the 
world :  bas-reliefs  of  Phsdra  and 
Hippolytus,  a  bacchanalian  proces- 
sion, the  rape  of  Proserpine,  and  the 
death  of  Alcestc.  2.  Bust  of  Bere- 
nice (?)  in  porphyry,  with  a  head  of 
green  basalt ;  busts  of  Caracalla,  Per- 
tinax, and  Lucilla,  in  rosso  antico ; 
Serapis  in  basalt ;  bas-reliefs  of  Dio- 
genes in  his  tub  conversing  with 
Alexander  the  Great;  a  sacrifice  to 
Cybele ;  a  hunter  and  his  horse  in  a 
forest ;  a  griffin  between  two  Cupids, 
with  the  emblems  of  Apollo ;  Poly- 
phemus and  Cupid ;  Daedalus  form- 
ing the  wings  of  Icarus,  in  rosso  an- 
tico ;  Silenus,  Cupid,  and  a  Bacchante, 
in  terra-cotta ;  two  Hours,  in  terra- 
cotta; Diana  taking  an  arrow  from 
her  quiver ;  the  building  of  the  Argo, 
in  terra-cotta.  B.  A  marble  statue, 
called  Ptolemy  (?),  by  Stcphanus,  the 
pupil  of  Praxiteles;  Minerva,  on  a 
cippus,  with  the  wolf  of  Romulus 
and  Remus ;  a  Venus ;  another  Pto- 
lemy ;  Atlas  supporting  the  heavens ; 
a  small  statue  of  a  fisherman  (?)  on 
the  triangular  base  of  a  candelabrum, 
with  bas-reliefs  of  dancing  women^ 


r^p 


394 


iMWTE  ST.-^^BCWe.— PWfer(**«ajH^-*  «p 


Mu :  B  *aw  of  while  nwtlilu,  ii  Wt  i 

Uw  Ubiiiin  of  Ilcrculn.  found  on  the  I 
Ajapinn.  ■!.  A  llcnoei  of  llowvnid 
ftlaliwUir.  wilh  ■  h»d  of  a  Faun  in 
gkllouiHcoi  n  llL'rmuior  Pciapus;! 
■  ban  of  U  Verui ;  an  antic|uc  mo-  '■ 
ujc  repreneiittng  the  ioundiition  of 
thi  Nilc(  nml  ■  snull  biu-relicf  n-  | 
pineDlrng  Orcslu*  nod  PyUilex  before  i 
tpbieenia.  5.  A  repetition  of  the ' 
Cu|iidl>r  rtaTit<lle>(p.  462);  Apollo  | 
ulttog  cm  ■  trijioil  i  Lcda  i  Mercury, ', 
&c  IV.  —  r^ilibMli.  Bu-reliefs  in 
■tuocd,  copied  fWim  ihs  uilii|ue ;  four 
Mnluas  rcpTescntlog  C.  CosHr  son  of 
Affrippa  (?>  A  Koinim  matron  ai 
Ci-reSi  B  oyniph,  and  a  ilave  to  wliioh 
the  aanie  of  lirutua  (?)  has  been  given 
by  thu  iuili(|uiirii's;  three  coloasal 
nuulu  of  Medusa,  Bacchui,  and  Her- 
cules. V. — Cvrridor  at  the  foot  of 
(he  stairs,  a  fine  btu-relief  of  Rome 

representing  ttro  letoales  called  LIvia 
and  OctBTia  (?)  tacrJIIcing  to  Mars. 
On  tlie  Slaireaia  are  several  lial- 
reliufs  of  great  interest :  the  death  of 
tlie  eliildreo  of  Niobe  j  Apollo  (?), 
winged  {  a  female  Ggureio  svlioir,  with 
a  child,  Leucothea  and  Bacclius  (?). 
\l.  — Upper  Floor.  1 .  Oval  Hall,  wifh 
two  fine  columns  nf  giallo  antioo;  be- 
tween the  columns  is  .lootber  repeti- 
tion of  the  Faun  of  Pnuileles  ;  the 
fVieie  represents  the  games  of  the 
Circui.  3.  Hung  with  tapestries  exe- 
cuted by  one  of  Cardinal  Albani's  do- 
mcbties,  from  designs  by  Flemish 
painters.  3.  GaiineUo;  asmall  bruuae 
sUlueof  Minerva  i  Diaua,  id  alabas- 
ter, with  the  head,  hands,  and  ieet  of 
brontc;  a  very  fine  small  bronic 
of  the  Farnese  Hercules  ;  a  sma 
tlie  of  Diogenes;  a  Silenu»;  two, 
tmall  Fauns  (  the  celebrated  Afdi.ui 
SAunorroNoa  of  Praiilelea,  in  bronte 
(p.  471),  considered  by  Winckelmann 
the  must  eiquisite  bronie  statue  in 
the  world  ;  he  regarded  it  as  the  ori- 
ginal statue  of  Praiiteles,  »o  well  de- 
scribed by  Pliny  ;  it  was  found  on 
tlie  Avcnline:  the  bcautitiil  bas-relief 
of  s  Faua  and  a  Bacchante  ilancing; 


the  bna-reliuf  of  the  repose  of  Her- 
enles;  a  silting    Egi-plian   figure,  ul. 

4.  BM-ro1let^  of  Bacchus  carrjnDg 
away  the  tripod,  a  work  of  very  an. 
cient  art;  Bacehua  educated  by  tea 
Nymphs  j  two  Fauns  dancing.  Over 
the  chimney  is  the  gera  of  the  collee- 
tion,  the  beautiful  AHTixotrs  cbowsid 
WITH  Lorus  FLO w a aa,  which  WlDckel- 
mann  has  described  with  rapture:  "n 
fresh  and  as  highly  finished,"  heio)^ 
"as  if  It  had  just  led  the  studio  of  the 
•culptor.  Thiiwork,  after  the  Apollo 
and  the  Laocoon,  is  perhaps  the  most 
beautiful  monument  of  antiquily 
which  time  has  Iraasmitted  to  us.' 
lU  position  shows  how  eSective  has. 
reliefs  may  be  made  in  the  intennl 
detorations  of  modern  houses.  5. 
GaB^ria  Kobih.  On  the  ceUing  is  the 
Parnassus  of  Hnphnel  Wengs,  once 
itcemed  one  of  the  Rrst  paintings  In 


Komi 


1   fallen 


of  tEe  Kclectie  Schod 
founded  by  this  artist.  Bas-ielieB 
of  Hercnlei  in  the  gardens  of  Ibe 
He^eridei,  one  of  the  fineat  in  th« 
collection;  Uedalus  and  Icarus;  Alei- 
ander  and  Bucephalus;  Marcus  Aurfr- 
lius  sitting,  with  Faustina,  represented 
under  the  ligure  of  Peace  ;  a  BBeriHc^ 
with  Hve  female  figures  ;  Ganymede 
and  the  eagle  ;  the  stnlue  of  Jupiter  ; 
and  the  line  and  imposing  statue  ot 
Minerva,  perfectly  preserved,  Bod 
considered  by  Winckelmann  to  be  the 


the  sublim 

vailed  from  the  time  of  FJiidios  to 
that  of  Praxiteles.  5.  Over  the  ehimi 
ney.piece,  the  bas-relief  of  Orpheu* 
Eurydice,  and   Mercury,   .'      " 


of  sculptu 
style ^    - 


arble,   a 


of  great  interest :  it  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  represent  Antiope 
with  Zelhus  and  Ampbion.  Thrai 
names  arc  inscribed  on  the  repetttion  of 
this  relief  in  tlie  Louvre,  while  the 
names  we  have  given  hare  beat 
adopted  on  another  repetition  at;  Na- 
ples. It  is  engraved  fVom  a  drawing 
bv  Flaxman,  in  Rees'  Cyclup.  Floaa 
,a>;VieNo.'e\..\V.  VU Gcir'"«i.  On 


Papal  States.]   r.  £7.-*  rome.— -  Villas  (Aldcbrandini),      535 


the  outer  wall  of  the  gallery  are  seve- 
ral interesting  fragments,  among  which 
may  be  noticed  the  bas-relief  of  the 
combat  between  Achilles  and  Mem- 
non,  and  a  fragment  of  the  Temple  of 
Trajan,  found  in  the  ruins  of  his 
Forum  in  1767.  Vlll.^Bigliardo, 
the  billiard-room,  with  a  portico  of 
fourteen  columns ;  statues  of  a  priest, 
of  Ptolemy  (?),  of  Geta  (?),  of  Maxi- 
mus,  of  Bacchus,  and  of  Hyacinthus. 
In  the  opposite  room,  a  bas-relief, 
supposed  to  represent  Berenice.  The 
adjoining  room,  ornamented  with 
fourteen  columns,  contains  a  statue  of 
Diana  of  Ephcsus,  and  a  female  satyr. 
IX.  —  Coffee-house^  a  semicircular 
building,  sustained  by  pilasters  and 
twenty-six  columns  of  various  marbles ; 
twder  the  arcades  are  statues,  busts, 
and  hermes.  Arcade  1.  Hermes  of 
Hercules ;  bust  of  ^sop,  perhaps  the 
only  example  of  an  ancient  statue  of 
deformity:  there  are  two  iron  spots 
on  the  breast ;  hermes  of  the  orator 
Quintus  Hortensius.  2.  Hermes  of 
Antisthenes.  3.  Hermes  of  Chry- 
sippus;  Socrates;  bust  of  Caligula. 
4.  Small  statue  of  Nemesis;  hermes 
of  Hippocrates.  5.  Two  Canephore ; 
•Hadrian,  a  very  fine  bust,  quite  un- 
broken, and  full  of  intelligence ;  bust 
of  Nerva.  6.  A  large  vessel  of  Egyp- 
tian breccia ;  colossal  Egyptian  statue 
of  Amasis;  statue  of  an  Egyptian 
goddess,  in  black  granite.  Over  the 
door,  a  fine  bas-relief  of  the  birth  of 
Arion.  7.  Bust  of  Homer ;  hermes 
of  Thcophrastus.  8.  Bust  of  M.  An- 
reliiu.  9.  Bust  of  Otho.  10.  Hermes 
of  the  orator  Lysias.  11.  Hermes  of 
the  orator  Isocrates;  colossal  statue 
of  Bacchus.  X.  — .  Inner  Chamber, 
paved  with  ancient  mosaics;  a  statue 
of  Juno ;  on  the  pedestal  an  ancient 
mosaic,  representing  a  school  of  phi- 
losophers ;  a  statue  of  a  nymph,  with 
a  mosaic  on  the  pedestal,  found  at 
Atina,  near  Arpino,  representing  the 
deliverance  of  Hesione  from  the  mon- 
ster ;  bas-reliefs  'of  the  death  of  M&- 
leager ;  and  a  drunken  Hercules. 

VtUa  AlddbrandinU  «  few  years  ago 
the  property  of  Geo.  Miollis,  who 


made  it  remarkable  for  the  excellent 
order  and  arrangement  of  its  gardens. 
It  contains  some  antique  sculptures, 
statues,  cippi,  inscriptions,  and  a  few 
paintings  by  Andrea  del  Sarto,  GipT" 
gione,  &c.,  none  of  which  require  par* 
ticular  notice. 

VtUa  Borgheee,  beyond  the  Porta 
del  Popolo.  This  celebrated  villa, 
formerly  the  great  promenade,  or  ra- 
ther the  park  of  Rome,  to  which  all 
classes  of  the  citizens  were  accustomed 
to  repair  on  festas  and  holidays,  was 
reduced  to  a  perfect  wilderness  by  the 
Roman  republicans  during  the  revo- 
lution of  1 849.  The  liberality  with 
which  these  noble  grounds  were 
thrown  open  to  the  public  at  all  sea- 
sons, and  without  distinction  of  per- 
sons, has  been  already  noticed.  Tbey 
were  three  miles  in  circuit,  and  were 
rich  in  every  variety  of  park  scenery, 
diversified Jpy  groves  of  ilex  and  lau- 
rels, by  clumps  of  stone-pine,  and  by 
long  avenues  of  cypresses,  which  sup- 
plied the  landscape  artists  with  end* 
less  combinations  for  their  pencil.  All 
these  scenes  of  natural  and  artificial 
beauty  were  barbarously  laid  waste 
by  the  republican  « Commission  of 
Defence,"  under  the  pretence  that  the 
trees  interfered  with  the  full  play  of 
the  cannon  from  the  Pincio.  The 
fine  entrance-gate  is  unbroken,  l>ut  the 
moment  we  are  inside  the  grounds, 
the  work  of  destruction  appears,  and 
not  a  single  tree  out  of  thousands  is 
left  standing.  The  Egyptian  portico 
is  a  ruin,  all  the  small  casinos  in  the 
demesne,  including  that  of  Raphael, 
are  demolished,  and  even  the  foun- 
tains are  defaced.  The  mansion  it- 
self, however,  and  its  works  of  art, 
remain  uninjured,  the  Triumvirate 
having  xealously  exerted  themselves 
in  protecting  the  public  monuments 
and  private  galleries.  Part  of  the 
mansion,  it  is  true,  was  at  one  time 
converted  into  a  hospital,  but  no  act  of 
Vandalism  appears  to  have  occurred 
within  it,  and  the  ornamental  grounds 
immediately  around  it  have  escaped 
the  wanton  destruction  which  has 
made  the  ^^k  sl  ^vV^ktoak^*    ^n»  >^ 


m 


Rocre  97.— »0Me.— VSht  {Berffhaey.    ^ffle^W 

uid  that    Prince    Botglinc  will  now '  illuilrsled    bj    Wiockelmsnn :    they 

Mlmtidoii   ilic  arnamcrxnl  and  cunlL'nt    rurmed  lh«  sides  of  oircopluigi.      Tbs 

"  uelf  wilh   the  UHfuli  by  turning  ^  Greek    hennH  of  Mercury,  and  the 

*UJa  luto  a  Ctna,  tad  by  excluding  '  Antiope    fighting    agunsC     Here  '" 

public  fia<n  hia  groundi.      The   and    Theuuit,   are    also    interest 

lion  or  CaMimo  wu  built  by  Car-    111 Giillttria.  corresponding  in 

Scipione  Borg1it»e,  rrom  the  do-  j  with  the  snloon,  and  deooratvtl  with 
■rgni  of  Oiu*«uni  Vantaniiu,  called  tw^l;  pilutcra  of  ginlla  aniico,  and 
II  Kkmrningo,  and  wai  rormerly  rich  '  medallions  eiccuted  by  SalimbeM, 
in  antiquiiin  uf  the  highest  clnni  hut  Pacetti,  Laboureur,  and  other  contem- 
oMHl  of  its  treasures  passed  some  [  porBry  sculptors,  from  tlie  designs  of 
years  ago  into  tlie  Idurre  and  other  ^  Tummaso  Conca.  lu  the  niches  an 
pilleries.  N<ilwith>lBudingIlicse1o>wt,'tiquc  statues  of  a  Muse,  of  Thetis  . ._ 
11  retains  some  works  of  art  which  do-  statues  of  Diana,  and  two  of  Bocchiu 
:,  independently  of  the  |  Among  the  other  objects  in  this  gal- 
of  tht  building  and  ill .  lery  are  the  modern  porphyry  busts  of 
inurous  hilk.  (The  Casino  is  open  the  emperors,  the  brouto  bermes  af 
'fy  day  eit»pt  Tliundayi  and  holi.  Baeohus.  and  the  porphyry  soreopha- 
,  (cooi  9  to  a  o'clock,)  Tlie  gus  uid  to  have  been  fuund  in  Iba 
__.  leo,  60  fcel  long  and  17  broad,  Msusok-um  of  Hadrian.  IV,— C^ 
auatained  by  Doric  pilasters,  contains  Uiul  of  tht  Ntrmaphralile,  so  csUed 
some  bas-reliefs  from  the  Arch  of  from  the  remarkable  statue,  in  I'ariai 
Claudius  now  destroyed^^te  Romu- '  marble,  said  to  hare  been  found  ii 
lus  and  Rcmui  suckU'd  by  the  wolf; '  the  villa  of  SallusC,  and  now  in  th 
the  bas-relief  of  Corvius  NasicB,  with  I  Lourre;  an  ancient  repetition  noi 
■  m  of  lictors ;  the  colossal  supplies  its  plaee.  The  othei  objesta 
emperor  seated ;  another  to  be  noticed  are  the  Roe  beads  of 
of  Apollo  bending  the  bow;  and  Tiberius,  of  the  Genius  of  Roln^ 
insuriptious  Ibund  at  Gabii.  of  Sappho,  and  of  Scipio  Africanu^ 
,  60  feet  long  anil  SO  (eet  high,  and  a  mosaic  fiiund  at  Caste!  Ar- 
wilh  a  roof  painted  in  fresco  by  clone,  on  the  road  to  Tivoli,  V.— 
■itists  of  the  last  century.  Over  the  Catatra  dd  Gb.diatore,  formerly  ra 
doors  and  windows  are  modern  bust*  called  from  IW  hnc  statue  of  Agasiaa, 
of  the  twelve  Ccsars.  The  principal  well  known  as  the  Borghese  gladiatinv 
antiques  ore  the  bas-relief  of  Curliui  I  and  now  in  the  Louvre.  The  moit 
on  liorsebaek  leaping  into  the  gulpli ;  j  remarkable  ECulptuTes  are  the  itatnea 
the  colossal  bust  of  Isis,  with  the .  of  Minerva,  the  Pythian  Apollo,  D 
lotus;  the  eolowal  head  of  Diana  (?);  I  vestal.  Piety,  and  a  sareophagxis  witb 
Hadrian  and  Antoninus  Pius ;  the  bas-reliels  of  Tritons  and  Nereida. 
itatues   of    a   priestess   of  Diana,    a  |  VI,— CuiBcra  %iia"aco,  with  ttat 

Faun,   and    Bacchus.       I Caiiifra.[of  Isis,  a  nymph,  a  priestess,  am 

Hia  moat  important  sculptures  are.  Ceres;  the  two  latter  are  modem 
thebeautifolly  draped  statue  of  Ceres, ,  works.  In  the  centre  n  the  group  of 
aVenus,aherme5ofApo1lo,andafiiiD  the  Faun  and  dolphin,  which  formed 
bas-relief  found  on  the  Via  Labieana, 'part  of  an  ancient  fountain.  The 
Tcpr^'nting  the  education  of  Ttle-  bermes  of  Bacchus  crowned  with  ivy 
phus,  II,  — Camtra  di  Ercolc,  The  and  a  fine  vase  of  i^ite  marble,  ail 
fresco  of  the  Pall  of  Phaeton,  on  the  '  also  remarkable.  The  decoiatio&i  i^ 
Toof,  is  by  Cacdaniga;  the  medalliona,  i  this  room  ate  very  rich  ^  the  coluc 
by  Agricola.  In  the  niches  are  three  '  are  of  oeru  antico,  Oriental  granite, 
■tatues  of  Hercules.  The  bas-rtlie^  j  &a. ;  tbo  paintings  are  by  Conea. 
t>f  the  labours  of  Hercules,  and  those  |  Vll ,— Cataera  di  Silem.  The  group 
irmenting  the  nurcli  of  the  Ama-  lof  Sllcnus,  now  in  Paris,  gave  its 
the  relief  of  Troy,  haie  l)i:eu\nttmie  W  Cins  loonv.    I^s  v^ineipal 


^  llband. 

in 


■JKmc 
■fcaool 


^myresenti 
^■taM  to  till 


Pij^xU  Siaies.2    R0UT£  27* —  romb. —  Villas  (Ludovisi).      537 


leulptures  are  the  group  of  the  three 
Seasons,  the  Ceres,  the  Mercury,  a 
Faun  playing,  another  Faun  re- 
posing, Pluto,  Antoninus  Pius,  Peri- 
ander,  and  the  group  of  Bacchus  and 
Proserpine.  Second  Jloor,  with  ceilings 
painted  by  artists  of  the  last  century. 
The  group  of  Apollo  and  Daphne, 
executed  by  Bernini  at  the  age  of 
eighteen.  Among  the  other  works 
are  the  .£neas  and  the  David,  still 
earlier  performances  of  Bernini ;  the 
statue  of  Sleep,  by  Alessandro  Al- 
gardi ;  three  cliildren  sleeping,  attri- 
buted to  the  same  sculptor ;  and  four 
▼ases  with  bas-reliefs  symbolical  of 
the  Seasons,  by  Laboureur.  Among 
the  pictures  are  the  Rape  of  Helen, 
by  Gavin  HamiUon  /  the  St.  John,  by 
Mengs ;  a  bacchanalian  scene,  by  JV. 
JFoussin;  a  Holy  Family,  by  Lvea 
Giordano;  two  remarkable  snow- 
pieces,  by  Fosehi ;  and  the  portrait  of 
Paul  v.,  by  Caravaggio,  The  Venus 
for  which  Paoline  Borghese,  the  sister 
of  Napoleon,  sat  to  Canova,  is  also 
preserved  here.  In  the  upper  part  of 
the  grounds  was  situated,  before  the 
revolution,  the  Villa  Olgiati,  better 
known  by  its  traditional  title  of  the 
Caaino  of  Haphad.  It  consisted  of 
three  rooms  decorated  with  arabesques 
and  medallions,  in  which  Uaphael's 
beauty  of  design  was  combined  with 
the  most  delicate  fancy.  They  were 
fortunately  removed  to  the  Borghese 
Palace  before  Ihe  outbreak  of  the  re- 
volutionary troubles,  in  which  the 
casino  was  demolished,  and  will  be 
found  described  in  our  account  of  that 
palace. 

Villa  lAtdooUi  was  built  by  Cardi- 
nal Lodovico  Ludovbi,  the  nephew 
of  Gregory  XV.,  and  is  now  the  pro- 
perty of  the  prince  of  Piombino,  of 
the  Buoncompagiii  fiimily,  with  whose 
written  order,  to  be  obtained  througfi 
a  banker,  it  may  be  seen  on  Thursdays. 
Tlie  grounds  of  the  villa  include  a 
part  of  tlie  gardens  of  Sallust.  The 
villa  consists  of  three  casinos.  The 
largest,  on  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
built  from  the  designs  of  Domehi- 
chino,  it  not  shown ;  it8^£i9ade  ia  or* 


namented  with  statues,  busts,  and 
antique  bas-relief  The  second  ca- 
sino, on  the  right,  contains  a  fine  col- 
lection of  ancient  sculpture.  HaU  I. 
—  The  principal  objects  in  this  hall 
are  statues  of  ^sculapius,  Apollo, 
Venus,  Antoninus  Pius;  busts  of 
Claudius,  Julius  C«sar,  and  Anti- 
nous  ;  and  a  bas-relief  of  the  rape  of 
Europa.  HaU  II.,  containing  the 
noble  statue  of  Mars  sitting  with  a 
Cupid  at  his  feet,  found  within  the 
precincts  of  the  Portico  of  Octavia, 
and  restored  by  Bernini ;  a  group  of 
Apollo  and  Diana ;  a  group  of  Pan 
and  Syrinx  ;  a  statue  of  Cleopatra ;  a 
sitting  gladiator ;  a  modem  statue  of 
Venus  coming  out  of  the  bath ;  sta- 
tues of  Hercules,  Bacchus,  Mercury, 
and  Agrippina ;  the  beautiful  colossal 
head  of  Juno,  well  known  as  the 
Ludovisi  Juno  ;  the  celebrated  group 
considered  by  Winckelmaun  to  repre- 
sent Orestes  discovered  by  Electra, 
bearing  the  name  of  Menelaos,  the  son 
of  Stefiinos,  the  Greek  sculptor ;  the 
group  called  Psetus  and  Aria,  sup* 
posed  by  Winckelmann  to  represent 
Canace  receiving  the  sword  sent  by 
her  father  JEolus;  a  colossal  figure 
of  the  Venus  of  Cnidos;  a  head  of 
Bacchus  in  relief;  the  group  of  Pluto 
and  Proserpine,  by  Bernini ;  the  por- 
phyry bust  of  Marcus  Aurelius,  with 
the  head  of  bronze,  and  the  statue  oi 
a  Senator,  with  the  name  of  Zeno  the 
sculptor  on  the  drapery.  In  the  tmaU 
Catino  is  the  ceiling  with  the  cele- 
brated fresco  of  Aurora,  by  Guerdnot 
representing  the  goddess  in  her  car 
driving  away  Night  and  scattering 
flowers  in  her  course.  In  one  of  the 
lunettes  is  Daybreak  represented  as  a 
youth  holding  a  torch  in  one  hand 
and  flowers  in  the  other.  In  another 
lunette  opposite  is  Evening,  repre- 
sented as  a  young  female  figure  sleep- 
ing. In  the  adjoining  room  are  four 
landscapes  in  fresco :  two  painted  by 
DomenichinOt  and  two  by  Guercino. 
In  the  upper  room  it  a  ceiling  with  a 
fresco  of  Fame,  by  Guercino;  and 
from  the  roof  is  enjoyed  one  of  tU<& 


5S8     B.  ST.—  mn:~^ntka  (imrff,"  Sa^mi,  iteif.  faiwh^T 

jtitdi-n  cunUiiM  inui}  ttaluu  and  an-  Tor  m  tee  of  a  paul  tu  the  cuatoile :  It 
tiijiic  mitblFs  ""J  utliKi  Mulplura',  commnnili  not  only  the  modern  citj 
■niong  uliich  u  a  utyr  ntlributrd  to  and  many  of  the  ancient  monument!^ 
Mieba*!  Aogdo.  ,  but  llie  immense  plains  of  Ibe  Cam- 

»Ma /^Mi.  on  the  Janieulum,  built  t»gna  f^om  Hie  Sabine  hills  to  the 
from  the  dcaignt  of  Giulio  Romuio,   sea-coast. 

eonuim  (our  rooms  paiittitl  in  fresco,  yilh  lUatiinii,  formerly  the  Ginttl- 
by  Giuho  Bamana  and  his  scholars.  .  tiiaiii,  near  the  Lftteran,  remarLablt 
The  prLnei|«l  tubjcets  are  CUIia.  for  its  intercxting  fVvMoeB  illustrslive 
■winiming  over  the  Tiber,  and  the  of  Dante,  Arjnsto,  and  Tosso,  by  mo- 
dUcorny  of  the  Sibyl'*  books  on  ilia  dern  German  masters,  '{"he  fir^  roaia 
Janiculnm.  Among  Ibe  aiabeM)ues  eontains  nibjects  train  the  UiTiu 
•re  pOTlraitK  of  the  Fomarina,  Danle,  Commedia,  by  STocA  aod  Ph.ViUt 
Pctranh,  Bcrni,  and  Arioslo,  As  tbe  subjects  of  the  second  room,  by 
the  lilla  is  now  a  eonrent  of  nons  in  Schnorr,  are  taken  from  the  Orlando 
conncciiou  with  the  Trinila  del  MonIC,  Purioso ;  those  of  the  third,  by  Onr- 
tbuse  eannut  be  seen,  but  tbey  are  en-  bttk  and  FSArirh,  are  from  the  Ceru- 
grared  in  Crijner'a  Decorations.  Isalcmme. 

Filla  Maibmo,  on  tbe  southern  FUla  MatUi,  on  the  Co'lian,  the 
slopes  of  Monte  Mario.  Tliis  in-  well-known  residence  of  the  Prima 
teresling 'ilia  derives  its  name  from  of  Peace,  commanding  an  imporang 
Mai^aret  of  Austria,  daughter  of '  view  of  the  ruins.  Over  the  entrance 
Charles  V.,  and  wife  of  Alessandro  '  is  a  mosaic  by  Jacopo  Cositnoti,  for- 
du'  Medici,  and  aftertrarda  of  Ottavio  merly  belonging  tothe  suppressed  mo- 
FarncH^  duke  of  Parma:  it  now  be-  nastery  of  8.  Tummaso.  Inihe garden 
longs  to  the  royal  &mily  of  Naples,  is  the  fragment  of  the  obelisk  ^reody 
It  was  built  by  Cardinal  Giulio  de' i  noticed  at  p.  376.  Among  the  antique 
Medici  fi^om  the  designs  of  Raphiuflf  sculptures  of  this  villa  are  the  doubla 
anU  completed  after  his  death  by  Giii- ,  liormes  of  Seneca  and  Socrates,  and 
lio  Itomano  and  Giovanni  da  Udine,  the  sarcophagus  with  reliefs  of  the 
who  painted  tbe  loggia  and  several  of  Muses,  and  lions.  Among  the  otiiia 
the  rooms  in  fresco.  In  tbe  interior ,  works  of  art  are  the  statue  of  Venuat 
of  the  casino,  is  a  beautiful  frieze  and  i  and  the  bust  of  Nero,  by  Cammi ,-  and 
a  ceiling  by  Gialla  Romano,  rcpresont-  !  Caiaueclai'i  copy  of  Lnureti's  picture 
itig  the  hunt  of  Diana,  Apollo  driving  |  of  Horatius  Codes  on  the  Subliclan 
nis  chariot,  sports  of  satyrs,  and  va-   bridge. 

rious  subjects  of  ancient  mythology,  j  n/fa  M«ftci.  —  This'  fine  -ilia,  tbe 
These  fine  frescoes  are  described  and  ,  seat  of  the  French  Academy,  waa 
illustrated  in  Ludwig  Criiner's  new  ;  built  by  Cardinal  Kieci,  of  Montepul- 
work  on  "  The  Architectural  Deeo- '  ciono,  from  the  designs  of  AnnibaJe 
rations  of  Rome  during  the  15th '  Lippi.wich  thcekc^eptjonof  tbegardett 
and  teili  Centuries."  The  view  |%adc,  which  is  attributed  to  Michael 
(torn  the  villa  commands  the  whole  |  Angela.  It  was  subsequently  enkrged 
of  modem  Itome,  and  a  great  part  of  by  Caidiiuil  Alessandro  de'  Medim, 
the  Campagna.  On  the  summit  of  prior  to  his  accession  to  the  tiara  uts. 
the  hiti  is  the  HCa  MdiM,  belonging:  del  the  title  of  Leo  XL  The  villa 
to  the  Falcoiueri  family-  It  was  built  ^as  turned  into  a  fort  during  tbe  r^ 
by  Mario  MelUni,  bom  whom  the  volutionary  troubles  of  ltM9,  and  suf- 
hill  derived  the  name  of  Monte  Mario.  |  fered  serious  injury.  The  situation  is 
In  order  to  enter  the  casino  the  tra- .  one  of  the  finest  in  Rome,  and  the 
veller  must  obtain  an  order  in  Rome,  grounds  of  the  villa  are  nesj'ly  a  mile 
lint  it  contains  nothing  to  require  no-  and  B  half  in  circuit.  The  villa  con- 
lav.  The  view  fioiti  the  grounds  is',  taina  a  tine  collection  of  oasi 
^j-'i/y  inlerestingjflndmaybeMQojeiftis  ^lisu  vi  r.  cdi 


Papal  States.']   r.  27. —  rome. —  ViUaa  {Negroni^  etc.).        539 


Rome.  The  French  Academy,  found- 
ed in  1666  by  Louis  XIV.,  was  es- 
tablished in  this  villa  in  the  b^inning 
of  the  present  century ;  and  an  annual 
exhibition  of  pictures  by  French  ar- 
tists took  place  here,  every  April, 
before  the  outbreak  of  1849. 

Villa  Negroni,  or  Mtushni,  near  S. 
Maria  Maggiore,  formerly  one  of  the 
most  beautiAil  viUas  within  the  walls 
of  Rome.  It  is  now  let  after  having 
been  long  deserted,  and  its  extensive 
grounds  are  used  as  kitchen-gardens. 
Wehavealready  mentioned  the  remains 
of  the  famous  rampart  of  Servius 
Tullius,  which  may  be  traced  through 
a  great  portion  of  this  villa  (p.  869.). 
The  upper  part  of  the  grounds,  co- 
vered with  cypresses  and  cedars,  com- 
mands one  of  the  most  interesting 
views  of  ancient  and  modem  Rome. 
Nearly  all  the  antique  statues  and 
marbles  which  have  been  dug  up  at 
various  times  within  the  precincts  of 
this  villa  are  now  in  England. 

VtUa  Palatina  (open  on  Fridays), 
formerly  the  Villa  Spada,  and  now 
frequently  called  the  Villa  Mills,  from 
our  countryman  Mr.  Mills,  who  has 
become  proprietor  of  half  the  Palatine 
Hill.  The  remains  of  the  Palace  of 
the  Cffisars,  still  visible  in  the  grounds 
of  this  interesting  villa,  and  the  Casino 
painted  by  Giulio  Romano,  have  been 
noticed  in  a  previous  page  (322.). 
The  gardens  are  prettily  laid  out,  and 
Mr.  Mills  has  given  to  the  whole  villa 
an  air  of  comfort,  which  makes  our 
English  habits  and  taste  contrast  in  a 
striking  manner  with  the  ruins  of  the 
Imperial  palace. 

Villa  Pamfili  Doria,  beyond  the 
Porta  S.  Pancrazio,  the  most  exten- 
sive villa  in  Rome,  the  grounds  ex- 
ceeding four  miles  in  circuit.  It  was 
presented  by  Pope  Innocent  X.  to  the 
proBigate  Olimpia  Maidalchini,  the 
wife  of  his  brother.  Prince  Pamfili,  in 
1650,  and  was  arranged  from  the  de- 
signs of  Antinori  and  Algardi.  The 
grounds  were  laid  out  in  gardens, 
alleys,  terraces,  and  plantations,  among 
which  the  lofty  pines,  wluch  formed 
so  conspicuous  a  foature  in  all  views 


of  Rome  from  this  side,  added  con* 
siderably  to  the  beauty  of  the  spot. 
The  fountains  and  cascades  were  in 
the  fantastic  style  of  the  last  century, 
and  an  organ  worked  by  water  was 
another  relic  of  a  taste  now  happily 
superseded  by  our  improved  systems 
of  landscape  gardening.  The  Casino 
was  also  built  by  Algardi,  and  prior 
to  1849  was  more  remarkable  for  tha 
stuccoes  which  he  executed  on  the 
ceilings  than  for  the  sculptures  which 
it  contained,  most  of  which  were  be? 
neath  notice  as  works  of  art.  In  the 
year  just  mentioned,  however,  tha 
casino  and  the  grounds  of  the  villa 
generally  were  occupied  by  the  re- 
publican troops  of  Garibaldi,  who 
maintained  his  position  here  for  many 
weeks  against  the  whole  power  of  tha 
French  army.  The  advantages  of  tha 
situation  soon  made  it  essential  to  the 
success  of  General  Oudinot*^  operas 
tions  that  the  Romans  should  be  dis* 
lodged,  and,  after  having  been  taken 
and  retaken  several  times,  the  casino 
and  its  grounds  were  finally  captured 
by  the  French  troops.  Some  portion 
of  the  building  was  fire4  by  the  French 
on  obtaining  possession  of  it,  but  tha 
greater  part  was  destroyed  by  the  Ro« 
man  artillery  from  the  Castle  of  St. 
Angelo.  During  the  frequent  struggles 
between  the  contending  armies  on  thia 
spot,  several  distinguished  men  fell  on 
both  sides,  and  it  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  gardens  were  completely 
ruined.  From  the  extremity  of  tha 
grounds  overlooking  St  Peter's,  we 
have  a  more  complete  view  of  the 
flank  of  the  basilica  than  can  be  ob- 
tained from  any  other  quarter.  The 
columbaria  and  tombs  discovered  in 
these  grounds  mark  the  line  of  the 
Via  Aurelia ;  the  most  complete  co- 
lumbarium has  been  recently  destroyed 
(p.  365.),  but  the  inscriptions  have 
been  collected  for  preservation  in  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  corners  of  the 
park.  The  popular  name  of  Bel- 
retpiro,  conferred  upon  this  villa  by  the 
Romans,  is  said  to  allude  not  only  to 
the  delightful  variety  of  its  scenery, 
but  to  the  laiuYsuV]  o1  \\&  ^wgax^^  ^^. 


310 


RorreST. —  aovR— Zocaf  Arrm^metiL  "fSftjlr 


P 


■pp»n,  bo>«cr.  thai  the  |>aik  ii  iiM  ;  rietta  (Forum  of  Antoniiius  Pint), 

^jilggclbtr  frcv  fruin  tlit  luiiiiciao  of  3-i\.       '1'fii>i>Ic    or    Antoiiiiius   Pius 

^^Erio.  ( Cuttotii-hoiHC>    335.        S.   Ignonn, 

^^^E  4:».     Call^io   Romano,  5S4.     FiL 

^H      L«c»t  A»«A«ourt«i.  Scii.rra,J15.      &  Mareello,  424.     S. 

^^F  Maria  in  Via  I^aia,  433.      Vut.  Ddiit, 

^^^li  orin    to  nipply  the   tiitcll<r    SOB.     Pal.  BiianapaMe.  503.      Piaia 

with  CTviy    poulLle   fecilily  lor  ei-[and  FaL  di  Vcneila,  f  18.      S.  Manoi 

ploriiig   the   UirabiHa  of  Itome,  tn    424.     Tomb  of  Dibulns,  357.     Tomk 

■hall  omeluile  our  ilncrijiiian  of  them    uf  tbc  Claudian  Family,  357.      IIouu 

by  amnging  the  Jiffi^rent  olyeet*  on      '  "'  -      ■    '■ 

the   topognphipal    plan.      We    haTe 

already  iMtnl,  at  p.  SOG.  the  diuil- 

Tinugei   of  a  worL  vriKn    on    this        II.    Thi  Capitii  lo  Oit  Latrra*. — 

plan,  and  have  pointed  uut  tl>e  ol).    Capiloline  I]i1l,  308.       Piaua.  4SS. 

Jrclionilo  tbealti'DipltolioninllflnK    Fountain,  3 79.  Palace  ufSenBlar,48C. 

in   eight  day«,  on  ihe  principle  laid  J  View  from  the  Tower,  SOS.     Pal.  of 

dawn  by  Vati   about  the   middle  of  th«    Conwrratori,  467.       Gallery  of 

the  lu,l<Tntiiry.      Upon  these  poiiitn,  |  Picture*,   490.      Muaemn,    491-      S- 

aiwe  have  there  sUicd,  the  travEller    Maria  d'  Ara  Cceli,  414.      Temple  of 

will  no  doubt  form  bis  own  judgment    Jupiter  Ferctriiia,  328.       Temple  of 

"      '        *■  -    Jupiter  Capitolinui,  328.      Tarpcita 

■  lUick,3C7.    Mamertiiie  PriHHu,S6T. 

■  S.  Giuseppcde' Fa]egnami,4SS,  Ko- 
r  man  Forum,  316.  Tabularimn.  317. 
I  Milliariutn  Aureum,  31B.  Cliraa 
I  Asyltaiid  C.  CRpitolinus,Si8.  Tern. 
.    pie  of  Saturn,  334.      Temple  of  Vei- 

3.    Temple  of  Concord.  38S. 
I    Arch  of  Seplimius  Severus,  349.    Co- 
mn  of  Flioca°,  345.      Aeaderoy  •(' 
;.  I-ulte,  S'i5.     Church  of  S.  LDa> 
!3.     Basilica  i^milia  (S.  Adri«io> 
la.       Temple   of   Minerva    Chalci- 
ca,  3S».      Curia  of  Augustus,  31* 
,    S.   Maria  Liberatrice  (T.   of  Vesl«> 
319.      S.  Teodoro,  440,      <T.  of  Ro- 
,    mulus,333.)    Via  Sacra,  3 1 9.    Tem- 
pie  of  Anloniniis  and  Faustina,  391> 
.    T.  of  Remus  (S.  CosimueDaimiaiKi), 
Basilica  of  Constantine,  3S3. 
I    a  FraneescB  Romana,  430.      Arch  of 
Titus,  349,     Palatine  Hill,  308.     Pa- 
ce   of  the    CiesarB,   33t.      Farneca 
ardens,  322.      Vilhi  Palalina.  3S2. 
19.     Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome, 
\S.      ColiMum.  339.     Mela  Sudani 
IS.    Arch  of  Constantine,  946.    Cs. 
in   Hill,  308.       S.    Grcgorio,  422: 
assionist  Convent  of  S.  Giovanni  e 
,   I'aolo,  421.     Vlvanum  and    Spolla- 
ium,  371.      Arcb  of  Dolabella,  S47. 
Hijus   jaurii5_j,   oiz.      vidkikk,  aia.    A  Maria  della  Navleelia,  4B9,     Villa 
Con*  Jnnoceniiona,  508.    PlaoA  ai\'SUtti»,  a«&.    ei\«\\4V,W(i.     8.  Ste- 


how  much  or  how  little  it  contains  of 
any  particular  clau  of  obji 
by  now  supplying  a  topographical 
indet  to  that  deseiiptiofl,  with  refe- 
icnces  to  the  pages  in  whlc 
jecl  occurs,  we  iliall  put 
power  to  divide  them  into  distrieb^ 
and  visit  them  aocordiiig  to  his  own 
coitvei'>ienc4,  and  to  the  time  at  his 
dispojol.  In  order  to  show  how  the 
Roman  antiquaries  distribute  the  won- 
den  of  the  ciiy  among  the  eight  days 
we  disll  adhere  to  Iheir  divisions,  d|. 
Iliougli  the  traveller  may,  of  cou 
subdivide  them  on  his  own  plan, 

I.  Ponti:  MbUc  (0  lAe  Cnpilat. 
Poote  Molle,  page  2fi6.  —  Church  of 
Kt.  Andrew.  887.  Porta  del  Popoli 
and  Fiazia,  S8T.  OheUsk,  374.  8 
Maria  del  I'opolo,  429.  S.  Maria  di 
Monte  Santo  and  S.  M.  de'  Miracoli, 
428.  Hospital  of  3.  Giacomo,  527. 
S.  Carlo  in  Corso,  418,  1*81.  Ruspoli, 
515.  S.  Lortna.  in  Lucina,  423.  Pal. 
Cliigi,  505.  Piaiia  Colouna  and  the 
Antonino  Column  (Col,  of  Marcus 
Aureliusl,  344.  Post-otEee,  290 
Monte  Citorio  {Amphithealre  of  Stp 
fa'/j'us  Taurus),  3-12.     Obelisk,  37S. 


PtgHil  States.']  route  27.~-  rome.— -Zo^  Arrangement.    541 


fano  Rotondo,  440.  S.  Clemente,  41 8. 
Villa  Massimi,  538. 

III.  The  Lateran  to  the  Quirinal  — 
Obelisk  of  St.  John  Lateran,  374. 
Basilica  of  St  John  Lateran,  399. 
Baptistery,  402.  Lateran  Palace, 
497.  Scala  Santa,  402.  GateofS.  Gio- 
vanni, 302.  Basilica  of  Santa  Croce 
in  Gerusaleoime,  405.  Temple  of 
Venus  and  Cupid,  335.  Amphithe- 
atrum  Castrense,  342.  Porta  Mag- 
giore,  302.  Aqueducts,  366.  Tomb 
of  Eurysaces  the  Baker,  356.  Tomb 
of  the  Empress  St  Helena,  beyond  the 
gates,  360.  Temple  of  Minerva  Me- 
dica,  329.  Columbarium  of  Lucius 
Arruntius,  365.  Trophies  of  Marius, 
371.  S.  Bibiana,  416.  Porta  S.  Lo- 
renzo,  302.  Basilica  of  S.  Lorenzo, 
407.  Arch  of  Gallienus,  348.  S.  An- 
tonio Al>ate,  413.  Basilica  of  S.  Maria 
Maggiore,  403.  Colonna  della  Ver- 
gine,  405.  Obelisk,  373.  S.  Prassede, 
437.  S.  Martino  ai  Monti,  433.  S. 
Pudenziana,  438.  S.  Pietro  in  Vin- 
coli,436.  Vicus  Sceleratus,  437.  Baths 
of  Titus,  353.  Sette  Sale,  355.  Tor 
de'  Conti,  377.  Forum  and  Temple  of 
Ncrva,329.  Temple  of  Pallas  Minerva, 
330.  Baths  of  Paulus  JEmilius,  353. 
Forum  of  Trajan,  320.  Tngan's  Co- 
lumn, 346.  S.  Maria  di  Loreto,  426. 
Colonna  Palace  and  Gardens,  506. 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  335.  SS.  Apostoli, 
414.  Pal.  Odescalchi,513.  Pa).Muti. 
Savorelli,  513. 

IV.  The  Quirtnal  to  the  Mausoleum 
of  Auguetus.  —  Quirinal,  308.  Monte 
Cavailo  and  Obelisk,  375.  Fountain, 
379.  Pal.  Pontificio,  514.  Pal.  della 
Coiisulta,  507.  Pal.  Ilospigliosi,  514. 
Baths  of  Constantine,  352.  S.  Silvestro, 
439.  Villa  Aldobrandini, 535.  &Affata 
dc*  Goti,  410.  Torre  delle  Milisie, 
377.  T.  of  Quirinus  (S.Vitale),  333. 
Viminal,  309.  Pal.  Albani,  499.  S. 
Carlo  alio  Quattro  Fontane,  418.  S. 
Andrea  al  Nuviziato,  412.  S.  Bernardo, 
4 1 6.  Fontana  dell'  Acqua  Felice,  378. 
Baths  of  Diocletian,  352.  S.  Maria 
dcgli  Angeli,  424.  Agger  of  Servius 
TuUius,  369.  Castrum  Prtetorium, 
371.  S.  Maria  della  Vittoria,  432. 
Porta  Pia,  SOU   Columbarium  of  the 


Villa  di  Luzzano,  364.  S.  Agncse 
fuori  le  Mure,  410.  S.  Costanza,  419. 
Porta  Salara,  301 .  Campus  Sceleratus, 
370.  Villa  Albani,  532.  Agger  of 
Serrius  TuUius,  369.  House  and 
Gardens  of  Sallust  in  the  Villa  Barbe* 
rini,  370.  Circus  of  Sallust,  344.  Tem- 
ple of  Venus  Erycina,  335.  Villa  Ludo* 
visi,  537.  Piazza  Barberini  (Circus  of 
Flora),  344.  Fontana  del  Tritone,  377. 
Cappuccini,  417.  Pal.  Barberini,  499. 
House  of  Bernini,  519.  Fontana  di 
Trevi,  378.  S.  Maria  Trevi  (Croci- 
feri)  43 1 .  S.  Andrea  delle  Fratte,  412. 
Propaganda,  525.  Piazza  di  Spagna 
and  the  Barcaccia,  378.  Triniti  de* 
Monti,  441.  Staircase,  378.  Obelisk, 
375.  Houses  of  the  Zuccari  and  of 
Poussin,519.  Villa  Medici  (Academy 
of  France),  526.  538.  Pincian  Hill, 
309.  Obelisk,  375.  Villa  Borghese,  535. 
Villa  Olgiati  (Casino  of  Raphael),  537. 
V.  Mausoleum  of  A^^usitus  to  the 
Vdabrum,  —  Mausoleum  of  Augustus, 
355.  Hospital  of  S.  Roceo,  528.  Pal. 
Borghese,  501.  Pal.  di  Firenze,  512. 
Tordinona  Theatre,  294.  Pandieon, 
330.  Obelisk,  375.  S.  Maria  soprs 
Minerva,  427.  Biblioteca  Casanatense, 

428.  Pal.  Maccarani  (Cenci),  505. 
Pal.  Lanti,  512.  Valle  Theatre,  294. 
University  of  Rome(  Collegio  della  Sa« 
pienza),523.  Pa1.Madama,513.  Baths 
of  Nero,  and  of  Alexander  Sevcni8,353. 
Pal.  Giustiniani,  512.  S.  Luigi  deT 
Francesi,  423.  S.  Agostino,  41 1.  An- 
gelica Library,  411.  Pal.  Altemps, 
499.  Pal.  Lancellotti,512.  House  of 
Raphael  (Via  de*  Coronari),  519. 
Pal.  Cicciaporci,  506.  Pal.  Niccolini, 
513.  S.  Maria  in  Vallieella,  431. 
Pal.  Sora,  516.     S.  Maria  della  Pace, 

429.  S.  Maria  dell'  Anima,  426.  Pi- 
azza Navona  (Circus  Agonalis),  344. 
Fountains,  378.  Obelisk,  374.  Pal. 
Pam61i,  514.  S.  Agnese,  410.  Pal. 
Braschi,  503.  Statue  of  Pasquin,  379. 
Pal.  Massimi,  513.  House  of  Conrad 
Sweynhcim,  519.  S.  Andrea  della 
Valle,412.  (Theatreof  Pompey,  338.) 
Pal.  Vidoni,518.  Argentina  Theatre, 
294.  S.  Niccolo  ai  Ccsarini,  belonging 
to  the  Sommasehi  Fathers  (Temple  of 


IP 


5ii 

(Circui  Flinniuiun,  344.)  Founln'm  ot 
the  Tarurubc.  3T7.  F*!-  Coilnguli, 
500.   Portitu  uf  OoUtia,  370.    S.  An- | 

Sla  In  PaclwrU.  413.  Theatre  ofi 
wtdlu*.  1S7.  Pel.  Oraiui,  514.  ' 
Gll«»0.1l9<l.  9S3.  413.  Pill.  Cenoi.' 
305.  TbntnoTBilbiw.a:!?.  Forum 
OIlloiiiilD,  381.  aV7.  S.  Nicoulo  ia 
Carccro  (Tuiaple  of  Juno  Maluta. 
ftc),  3-JT.  Hospiul  uf  (iie  CoiuoIb- 
aim*,S^7.  S.Gii>TsnDiD«:o1lalo,43I.  ' 
VI.  ni  relabnm  lo  thi  Fabrician 
£niij,t._FoniinB<«riuni,331.  Aich  ' 
of  Janiu  duodriAona,  348.  Arch  of 
Scptiraiiu  Setems,  349.  S.  Giorgio, ' 
4sa  Cloaca  Maiiina,  S6B.  Acqua ' 
Argentina, 369.  CircuiMniiinu>,343. 
Septiiouiuni  of  S^ptimius  Severus, 
339.  BMhaorCanicalla,350.  aNuni 
<d  Achllleo.433.  Tombof  iheScipioi. ' 
3G3.  ColumtMrium  of  Ca.  I'nmponius 
Hyla*,  305.  Arch  of  Druuis,  347. 
Porta  S.  Sebaitiano.  303.  Tomb  of 
PriKilln,  364.  Domine  Quo  Vulil, 
409.  Columbarium  of  the  SIito  of 
Auguitui,3es.  Columb.  oftbeLibeTti 
ofLiiia,365.  Via  Appia,  364.  Basi- 
lica of  &  Sebartiaoo,  40S.  Catacombs, 
409.  Circiisof  Hoinulus,343.  Tem- 
pleofRoniuliis,333.  Tomb  of  Ctecilia 
Metella,  3i7.  Tomb  of  the  Servilil, 
364.  Temple  of  Bacchus,  335.  Foun- 
tain of  EE<!ria,  371.  Temple  of  the 
KvusRediculus,326.  Basilica  of  San 
pHola,40e.  S.  Paolo alleTreFontane, 
434.  Porta  S.  Paolo,  303.  Pyramid 
of  Coiiu  Ccstiiw,  359.  English  Burial- 
ground,  529.  Monte  Tealnccio,  309. 
Bastion  of  Sangallo,  303.  Pons  Subll- 
cius,  305.  Arentine,  308.  S.  Priics, 
3.  Saba,  439.      S.  Sabi 


BXCURStOKS  FROM   ROME. 


fSScI 


a  Maria  Avcntinn,  436.     S.  Ale 
412.      S.    Maria    in   Cosmedin, 
(Temple  of  Ceres  and  Proserpine,  3 
Bocca  della  Veriti  325.      Temple  of 
Vesta,  337.   Temple  of  FortunaViri- 
110,336.  House  of  lUenzi,  376.   Ponle 
Rotto,   305.      Cloaca  Hrlaiicno,    36S. 
Pulchrum  littus,  369. 

Vir.  TIteFabrkian Bridge ta Fame 
S.  Atigeto.  —  Ponte  di  Quattro  Capi 
(Pons  Fabricius),  304.  Hospital  of 
Braifivlelli,  527.     Island  of  the  Tiber, 

a«,  Tempk  of  MsmiapiMii,    "      ~ 


Daitolorameo,  416.  Ponte  di  S.  Bar- 
tijlommeo  (Pons  Gratiiuiiis).  303. 
Tmstevere,  398.  S.  Cecilia,  418.  & 
Maria  del  Orto,  439.  Ripa  Orande  ud 
flospital  of  S.  Micbele,  583.  Porta 
Partew,303.  8.  FraneescoaRipa,4£a 
a  MarioinTTasteiare,431.  Hospital 
of  &Callicana,53T.  S.  GiovamiiCr^ 
logoDO,  421.  S.  Bouoso,  416.  Janj* 
culnm(Montorio),  309.  S.  Pieiro  la 
Monlorio,  435.  Fontoni  Paolina,  377. 
Porta  S.  Pancraiio,  303.  S,  Pan- 
craxio,434.  Catacombs  of  Calepodin^ 
434.  Acqua  Paolo,  366.  Villa  I^uo. 
lili-Doria,  539.  Dilumbarium,  36S. 
Pal.  Corsini,  507.  Farnesinai  51CL 
Villa  Lanti,538.  Botanic  Gar  den,  5!^ 
S.  Ono&io,  433.  Pont^  Ssto,  304. 
Fontana  di  Ponte  Sisto,  379.  Trinill 
de'  Pellegrini,  441.  Hospital,  539. 
Cut.  Campana's  MuKuni,  5S0.  & 
Carlo  ai  Catinari,  413.  CanceUeria, 
504.  S.  Lorenio  in  Damaso,  4S3. 
Pal.  Fameae,  509.  Fountaifin,  379. 
Pal.  Sp«da,516.  Pal.  Fnloonicri,509. 
S.  TommoH) degli  Ingleti,  44a  Pal. 
Saccbetti,515.  S.  Gioranni  dc'  Fio- 
rentini,42I.  Pons  Triumpfaolis,  304. 
VIII.  Bridgi  of  S.  Angela  to  MeM 
Mario.— Baigo  or  Citt4  Leonins,  29% 
Ponte  di  a  Angela,  304.  Mausoleum 
of  Hadrian,  360.  Circus  oT  Hadrian, 
344.  Hospital  of  Santo  Spirito,  537. 
Pd.Giraud,51S.  Pal. degli ConTcrtili 
(Raphael's  Palace), 507.  PiaazaofSt 
Peter's,  Obelisk,  373.  FountrnDs,  979. 
Colonnades,  SS4.  Basilica,  361.  I^ 
lace  of  the  VaLcan,  442.  Sistine  Cha- 
pel. 443.  Gallery  of  Pictures,  4SS. 
Museum,  460.  Library,  480.  Gardens, 
485.  Armoury,  485.  Circus  of  Nero. 
344.  Porta  Cavalleggieri,  304.  Porta 
Angelica,  304.  Monte  Morio,  309. 
Villas  Madama  and  MelUni,  538. 


EXCURSIONS  FROM  SO  Ml: 
The  calamities  nhich  bare  inrept 
away  so  many  landmarks  of  ancient 
Rome  haie  had  no  effect  on  tbe  scenery 
ofthesuTrounding country.  Thehills 
which  bound  the  Cnmpagna  on  the 
\«BBt.  ftweiA  m  ea&l»a  muioe  of  en* 


Papal  States^]    excursions  from  rome  (Ttvo/i). 


5^Z 


joyment  to  the  traveller,  and  there  is 
scarcely  a  spot  which  is  not  associated 
with  the  memory  of  illustrious  names. 
Those  beautiful  landscapes  which  have 
inspired  the  first  artists  of  modem 
times,  are  immortalised  in  the  songs  of 
the  poets :  and  in  the  imagination  of 
the  scholar  they  are  still  htdlowed  by 
the  spirits  of  the  great  philosophers  i^ 
Rome. 

TiTOLi,  18  Miles. 

There  are  few  spots  in  the  imme- 
diate environs  of  Rome  which  present 
so  many  objects  of  natural  beauty  as 
Tlvoli  and  its  surrounding  valleys. 
The  enjoyment  of  the  excursion  de- 
pends in  a  great  n>easure  on  the  time 
which  the  traveller  may  devote  to  it. 
It  is  not  uncommon  to  start  from  Rome 
at  an  early  hour,  visit  the  cascades  and 
the  temples,  and  return  in  the  evening 
of  the  same  day.  A  hurried  excur- 
sion of  this  kind  is  never  satisfac- 
tory :  the  fine  scenery  of  Tlvoli  can- 
not be  properly  explored  in  less  than 
two  or  three  days ;  and  those  who  are 
desirous  of  vbiting  the  classical  and 
historical  sites  among  the  neighbour- 
ing mountains  will  find  it  necessary  to 
make  arrangements  for  a  still  longer 
visit.  Tlie  usual  charge  for  a  carriage 
to  go  and  return  in  one  day  is  from 
three  to  four  scudi,  exclusive  of  hwmo' 
mono.  Those  who  make  a  day*s  ex- 
cursion of  this  kind  often  take  their 
provisions  from  Rome  rather  than  go 
to  the  village  inns.  The  road  follows 
the  Via  Tiburtina,  and  in  some  parts 
traverses  the  ancient  pavement,  formed 
of  large  blocks  of  lava.  Leaving  Rome 
by  the  Porta  S.  Lorenso  (p.  S02.),  we 
soon  pass  the  basilica  of  that  name 
(p.  407) ;  and  at  the  distance  of  4 
miles  from  Rome  cross  the  Anio,  the 
modern  Tevcronc,  by  the  Ponte  Mam- 
molo.  This  bridge,  the  ancient  Pons 
Mammeus,  derives  its  name  from 
Mammea,  the  mother  of  Alexander 
Severus,  by  whom  it  was  repaired. 
In  later  times  it  was  destroyed  by 
Totila,  and  rebuilt  by  Narses  in  its 
present  form.  The  Anio,  which  we 
here  cross  for  the  first  time/  rises  on 


the  frrdntiers  of  Naples,  and  separates 
Latium  from  the  country  of  the  Sa» 
bines:  after  forming  the  cascades  of 
Tivoli  it  fklls  into  £e  Tiber  3  miles 
from  Rome,  near  the  Ponte  Salara. 
About  8  miles  beyond  the  bridge  the 
monument  of  Giulia  Stemma,  erected 
by  her  children,  was  discovered  a  few 
years  since.  On  the  left  hand,  a  short 
distance  off  the  road,  is  the  Lapo  di 
Tartaro,  so  called  from  the  petrifying 
quality  of  its  waters,  which  produce 
the  stone  called  travertine,  by  depo* 
siting  a  calcareous  crust  on  vegetable 
and  other  substances.  The  margin  has 
bem  so  much  contracted  by  the  gradual 
deposits  of  the  water,  that  the  lake  is 
now  almost  covered  by  a  thick  crust  of 
travertine.  The  sulphurous  odour  of 
the  pool  makes  its  position  known  long 
before  the  traveller  approaches  the 
spot.  Near  this  an  ancient  branch  of 
the  Via  Tiburtina  leads  to  Tivoli  by 
the  Ponte  del  Acquoria,  the  Pons  Au- 
reus; it  is  still  practicable,  but  is 
superseded  by  the  more  recent  road 
over  the  Ponte  Lueano.  A  large  por- 
tion of  the  pavement  near  the  Ponte 
del  Acquoria  is  well  preserved.  Be- 
yond this  the  present  road  crosses  the 
Solfatara  canal,  which  drains  the  lake 
of  SolfcUara,  the  ancient  Aquce  Al- 
buloe,  and  carries  its  sulphurous  waters 
into  the  Anio.  The  canal  is  9  feet 
broad,  4  fec^  deep,  and  2  miles  long. 
It  was  constructed  by  Cardinal  Ippo- 
lito  d'Este,  while  governor  of  Tivoli, 
in  order  to  prevent  the  inundations 
and  malaria  to  which  the  country  was 
liable  from  the  overflow  of  the  lake. 
The  water  is  of  a  milky  colour :  it 
runs  in  a  strong  current,  and  is  always 
marked  by  a  powerful  smell  of  sul- 
phur. The  lake  is  about  a  mile  firom 
the  bridge,  and  is  filled  with  reeds  and 
aquatic  vegetables :  its  petrifying  qua- 
lities are  continually  adding  to  the 
rocky  margin  around  it.  In  the  time 
of  Father  Kircher  it  was  a  mile  in 
circuit,  but  is  now  so  much  contracted 
fVom  this  cause  that  its  greatest  dia- 
meter is  little  more  than  500  feet.  Tlie 
floating  masses  of  vegetable  matter  on 
its  ftut&«%  bKi«  ^n«<cl  \\.  ^^  \aBB.^  ^ 


\ 


£  {ViUa  of  Hadrian).    [Sect  L 


the  *<  Itolc  N*t« 

tionrd  by  Stnbo.  vrn  tKr: 

uwd  nieduiiiullT.iuul  lliat 


The  lake! 


j  Bej-ond  the  bridge  Knne  traat*  «r  At 
II II  wn  I  ■Dcieut  mad  (nm  Cabii  to  Ttbar  bm^ 
u  much  .  be  teen.  Further  on,  betvcea  PeaM 
Kear  it  Lucano  and  llrali,  are  *ij(»  m^tf. 
are  tbe  ruini  of  the  BatLiEofAgrippa, ;  lured  piers,  the  remaim  profaablj  ■[ 
baquenied  by  Augiulus,  and  ctila^ed  ;  (omb*.  vhieh  Mine  antiquaiits  w^ 
bTZeDabia;di«jaresiillcatled"BaKDi  ||MHC  ta  hare  bran  Ih«  enUuier  M  lb* 
di  Regioa."  llie  witvr  was  eiainincd  \  villt.  Tbe  roodem  entrance  a  ahdM 
br  Sir  Ilumphrj  Dair,  who  ascer-  a  mile  and  a  half  (ioni  dw  brtfgCL 
tuned UiattheUtnperaiLire is H(j°Fah-  I  IfOi  of  Haibiait  {la  be  aetm  mI^ 
nDheil,atid  thai  il  contains  more  Llian 'b;  an  order  lo  be  obtained  M  tttt 
itt  <rra  lolumc  of  carbonic  acid  ){■.•,  >  Palace  of  the  Duke  of  BiaatM  « 
with  a  mull  quantity  nf  nilphutetied  Home).  Tbis  lilla  ii  situated  as  Ike 
hjdrogHi.  Th*  nilpburoui  odour  im-  plain  at  the  bue  of  the  hill  of  Tivelw 
pregiutn  the  air  for  a  contiiierahle  buUl  from  the  empeitH-'i  de^fB,  n 
diilanee,  ami  tbe  gmt  depth  uf  valer  order  to  include  in  one  cpot  aU  ht 
amy  be  prored  by  tbe  immense  volume  ,  had  leeo  most  itrilung  in  tb«  raiitM 
of  gw  which  it  dLtehargci  Ibr  a  lung  of  bit  invels.  It  coiered  *  tpace  aid 
time  after  a  ilone  Iwi  been  thrown  into  bj  tbe  Itoinui  antiquiuiei  (a  be  boa 
it.  Beyond  it  are  two  imallcr  Ukea,  H  lo  lO  milei  in  circuit  i  wbca  fait 
one  odled  *■  ddk-  Coloniielle,"  the  built,  it  mutt  haie  been  mon  like  ■ 
T  "di  S.  Giovanni,"  botbcommu-  ^  city  than  a  TiUa.  Nothing  in  llalj 
'  CDinpired  to  iu  iotpoBBg 
iiina :  the  itnnger  is  amaied  bj  Ibrit 
tneea  oftbegrore  of  the  lofty  Allninea,  'liie  and  ettenl.  which  Cu  surpaii  dw 
or  of  the  Temple  of  the  Faun,  irhieb  tuins  of  the  Palace  of  tbe  Ccsais,  U 
Virgil  celebntec  in  the  leventh  i£nidd  contained  a  Lycvum.  an  Acadenj.  • 
as  tbe  oracle  of  all  Italy: —  I'lenle  in  imiutiun  of  that  at  Albn, 

■■  i™«njc  lub  >IL<       I  ■  V*""  "f  Tempe,  a  Senpeoa  of  Ca. 

»„._""". I.... I  andria.  a  itream  called  the   Enripn^ 

I  Libran,  Barrackt  for  the  Giuu^ 

1  Taitirus,  Ehsian   Fieldt, 


vith  the  SoI&Util    The  clai- '  a 


len.*^ 


Hadrii 


II  leind  by  tte 


A  ihort  distanrc  berood  the  canal  we  |  aidinjc  here  when  be 

eroM  the  Anlo  by  the  Pomit  Lutano,  I  Eital  illness  of  whidi 

one  of  the  rooit  |ucluresijue  objects  in  |  llie  villa  is  tuppotrd  to  hat*  been 

thi  odghbourhood  of  Itome,  which  i  ruiued  during  the  ciege  of  'nbur  In 

" "  '  ■'■'•lila  :    for   many    centuries   «iba». 

fntly  to  Ihii  eeent  it  was  plundwrf 
.  tbe  Komant,  wlio  burnt  it>  marbiaa 
0  much  to  the  peculiar  |  inlo  lime,  and  reouned  its  poTpbfljr 
lelandKape,  isdaciibed!aiiil   nMrble  columns  to  adota  tbcif 
ia  the  general  account  of  the  Itonun  j  palaces  and  churches.      The  meat  r»> 
"""      *' '  i»  bridge,  all  markable  ruins  are  the  btlowing 


vhich  adds  h 


Oi  and  other  places  in 
a  tbe  quarries  from  which  at^ient 
d  modem  Rome  bu  derived  her 
Enpplia  of  ttaveriine.  Tbe  piers  of 
ihe  Ponte  Lueano  and  uesriy  all  the 
arches  are  ancient,  but  are  not  remark- 
able for  their  masonrj.  .^t  this  point 
'jfides  ;  one  btSDcti  \e*^ 


1.  Greti  TJualn,  one  of  three  which 
formerly  exiited  in  the  villa,  mat 
whoee  lilea  are  still  pointed  oat.  The 
seats,  the  eorridors  beneaih  them,  aad 
■  portion  of  tlie  proscenium  am  (dO 


t 


tdiau'i  villa,  ihe  olliet  to  Ti'KJ&.\Viite&\i^  v^ 


Papal  StatesJ]    excursions  from  home  (Tivoli). 


545 


on  the  Nymphaeum.  On  the  right  is, 
2.  The  PaciUf  built  in  imitation  of 
that  at  Athens,  described  by  Pan- 
sanias.  The  lofty  reticulated  wall  of 
the  oblong  portico,  nearly  600  feet  in 
length,  with  a  double  row  of  columns, 
is  still  standing.  3.  Temple  of  the 
Stoics  (?),  a  name  given  on  doubtful 
authority  to  a  large  hemicycle  with 
seven  niches  for  statues,  supposed  to 
have  been  lined  with  porphyry.  4. 
Teatro  Maritimo  (?),  another  doubtful 
name  given  to  a  round  building,  from 
the  discovery  of  a  mosaic  with  re- 
presentations of  sea-monsters.  It  was 
probably  a  bath.  5.  On  the  left  of 
this  building  are  some  ruins  called 
the  Library,  6,  On  the  left  of  the 
Temple  of  the  Stoics  (3)  are  two 
semicircular  buildings,  called  the  Tem- 
ples  of  Diana  and  Venus*  7.  Imperial 
Palactf  a  name  given  to  a  ruin  appa- 
rently of  two  stories:  in  the  lower 
one  are  some  remains  of  paintings, 
with  crypts  or  cellars,  llie  upper 
story  has  a  large  quadrangular  por- 
tico: in  many  parts  the  walls  are 
double.  8.  Near  this  is  a  long  line 
of  arches  communicating  with  a  build- 
ing with  stuccoed  ceilings,  in  a  fine 
state  of  preservation,  called  the  Palace 
of  the  Imperial  Family.  9.  Travers- 
ing the  court  of  the  Pascile  (2)  are 
the  Barracks  of  the  Pratorian  Gnard, 
an  immense  number  of  chambers  of 
two  and  three  stories,  called  the  Cenio 
CamereUe,  with  remains  of  galleries 
on  the  outside  from  which  they  were 
originally  entered.  The  doors  oom- 
municating  between  each  room  are 
modern.  10.  On  the  right  of  the 
barracks  is  the  great  square,  nearly 
600  feet  in  length,  called  the  Nauma^ 
chioj  supposed  by  some  antiquaries  to 
be  the  site  of  the  Circus.  11.  Serapeon 
of  Canopus,  in  imitation  of  the  temple 
of  Uie  same  name  at  Alexandria.  The 
Atrium  in  front  is  supposed  to  have 
been  filled  with  water,  as  several  con- 
duits and  covered  channels  may  be 
seen  behind  the  temple.  Some  cham- 
bers, called  the  apartments  of  the 
priests, and  a  semicircular  gallery  with 
a  painted  oeiling  are  itUl  staiiding. 


The  works  of  art  discovered  among 
the  ruins  are  preserved  in  the  Tor 
de'  Venti  in  the  museum  of  the 
Vatican  (p.  466.).  12.  On  the  right 
of  the  Serapeon  are  the  remains  of 
the  Academy  and  of  another  Theatre, 
13.  On  the  left  is  a  fosse  leading  to 
four  subterranean  corridors,  supposed 
to  belong  to  the  Tartarus;  and  beyond 
them  is  the  presumed  site  of  the 
Elysian  Fields.  14.  The  last  object 
to  be  mentioned  is  the  Vale  of  7'empe, 
which  has  little  resemblance  to  the 
fiimous  vale  of  Thessaly,  although  a 
small  stream  is  carried  through  it  in 
imitation  of  the  Peneus.  This  brings 
us  back  to  the  modern  casino  between 
the  Paecile  and  the  Greek  theatre, 
where  we  rejoin  the  road  to  Tivoli. 
The  immense  number  of  precious 
works  of  art  discovered  in  Hadrian's 
villa  adds  greatly  to  the  interest  of 
the  spot :  the  beautiful  mosaic  of 
Pliny's  Doves  in  the  Capitol,  all  the 
Egyptian  antiquities  in  that  museum^ 
and  numerous  statues  of  the  highest 
class,  noticed  in  the  account  of  the 
Vatican  and  the  Capitol,  were  found 
among  its  ruins.  It  disputes  with 
the  Portico  of  Octavia  the  honour  of 
the  discovery  of  the  Venus  de*  Me- 
dici, and  the  museums  of  the  great 
European  capitals  are  indebted  to 
it  for  some  of  their  most  valuable 
treasures. 

The  ascent  to  Tivoli  through  a 
grove  of  olives  b  very  steep,  but  pie- 
turesque.  On  the  right  are  the  ruins 
of  the  villa  of  Cassius,  to  which  we 
shall  recur  hereafter.  The  principal 
entrance  on  this  side  is  by  the  Ports 
di  Santa  Croce,  from  which  there  is 
a  fine  view  over  the  Compagna  of 
Rome. 

Tivoli  (Inns:  La  Regina,  recently 
much  improved  and  rendered  very 
eligible  by  the  erection  of  an  addi- 
tional story,  the  terrace  of  which 
commands  a  view  of  the  Temple  of 
the  Sibyl,  the  course  of  the  Cascatelle, 
and  the  heights  of  Subiaco;  La  Si- 
billa,  situat^  close  to  the  Temple  of 
the  Sibyl  and  the  best  views  of  the 


TscftiBtraiw  TBow  i«<m*'(^VwRS 


;  the  iMopte  iu«  tetv  civi).  nnd 

nileil  >cniTBniiHli<- 

m  wm  albxr).    T>*ol!.  the  micIckE 

sr.   Ill*  well-knovn    chy    of  the 

i,  bundeil  nearly  dit  ccnluri« 

U  of  (he    Elcnul  City,  and  nai 

«»d  to   obctlienw  by   Cunilluii.  j 

I   Roman  hutorian*  tell  us  that 

unk  irere  expelled  by  Hburtui, ' 

I   ini)    Catilluis    grandflOiB    of 

Bphumua,  who  esmc  from  Greece 

bb  ETUider:    and  that  the  celtle- ' 

H  derireil  it*  name  from  the  eldest 


ptrbtm  Tibur,"  gitren  to  it  by  Virgili 
ii  still  bnme  u  the  moito  on  Uie  cilj 
Ofini ;  and  Catullus  and  Piopertins 
bav«  eommonorated  tlie  beauty  i>f 
ill  position  with  a  partiality  soiTcdy 
1cm  remnrkiible  than  lliat  of  Horace. 
Among  the  historieul  TGCoids  of  tiii 
city,  we  know  that  Syphai,  king  rf 
Numidia,  died  at  Tibur,  B.C.  203,  (wo 
yean  after  bis  captivity.  He  bad 
been  brought  from  Alba  Fucenui  In 
graee  the  triumph  of  Scipio,  Hod 
hoooured,  ■■  Llry 


lublio    funera). 


nobia 


wbroU 


.   ThL 


gracing    the    trturapb    of 


Rilly  alluded  to  by  the  poetii 
futtoi  Tlbunia  monla  lie 
Mrli  'ntuitt  iTiRBn  cornomlne  t^itna 


a  Uti 


r  lifej 


I  cliBsiciii  aasocialions  at  TiToli 
e  made  it  a  memorable  apot  in  the 
nation  of  the  scholnri  iu  beau- 
I  scenery  inspired  same  of  the 
elesl  lyrics  of  Horace,  who  hns 
?  its  praises  with  nil  the  enlhu- 
n  of  a  fond  atlachmetil ; 


Qujin  damui  ALbuntE  rsonintit, 
Et  piocini  Anin.  tl  Tibuinl  lunu,  et  uiU 
Mobilibui  poiiurla  riik" 

Lib.  1.  *11. 10. 

He  tells  us  that  he  ofteu  composed 
bii  lerseB  while  wandering  among 
the  groves  and  oool  postures  of  the 
surrounding  valleys,  aud  eiprcsses  his 
anxious  wibh  tbiit  it  roay  be  his  lot  to 
spend  his  old  age  in  ils  retrents  : 
"  l^bur  Argeo  poiHinn  aHono, 


In  the  early  ages  of  the  empire  Tibur 
was  the  fevourilc  residence  of  many 
of  the  poets,  philosophers,  aud  states- 
men of  liome,  the  ruins  of  whose 
•  «)Uaa  are  siill  shown  rii  different  parts 
i^mftbe  valley.     The  epithet  o!  "  Sv- 


the    neighbourhood    of    llbur,  sap- 

ronnded  with  alt  the  pomp  of  an 
eastern  princess.  During  tbe  Golbio 
war,  when  Home  was  besieged  by 
Natses.  Tibur  was  occupied  by  Ibe 
IiDops  of  BelisariuE.  It  was  afler- 
wards  defended  by  the  Isaurioni 
against  Totila,  and  treacherously  sur- 
rendered by  the  inhabitants,  wfaoin 
Ibe  Goths  repaid  with  such  fearfid 
barbanties  thnt  Procopius  decluti 
it  impossible  to  record  their  crueltto. 
Totila,  afier  being  defeated  in  liii 
attempt  to  take  Rome,  retired  W 
Tibur,  and  rebuilt  the  town  and  ci- 
tadcL  la  the  Sth  century  it  lost  Its 
ancient  name,  and  asiiimcd  that  of 
TiTuli.  Jts  history  during  the  middle 
ages  is  a  continued  record  of  siegss 
and  struggles  against  tbo 
and  the  popes.     Among  these 

vellers  is  the  retreat  it  aflbtded  to 
Adrian  IV,  and  Frederick  Barbarossa 
after  the  iniurrcction  caused  at  Rome, 
in  1155,  by  the  coronation  of  the 
emperor  (  who  is  said,  by  (be  cardinal 
of  Aragou,  to  have  issued  a  diplomt 
exhorting  the  people  of  Tivoli  to  se- 
knowledge  their  allegianae  to  the 
pope.  At  Ihis  period  Tivoli  appean 
lo  have  been  an  imperii  city  inde- 
pendent of  Home,  aud  to  have  been 
the  subject  of  frequent  contention  be- 
twceu  the  emperors  and  tbe  Holy 
See.  In  1S41  U  was  seized  by  Fre- 
derick II.,  assisted  by  Ihe  powerful 
\^\<i>a«e  t£  ^^oitRtn  Kod  VIS  for  some 


J^apal  StcUesJ]    bxcursions  from  rome  (Ttt^o/t). 


547 


time  the  stronghold  of  the  Ghibeline 
party.  During  Frederick's  residence 
at  Tivoli  he  detained  there,  as  hos- 
tages or  as  prisoners,  Cardinal  Od- 
done  and  the  cardinal -bishop  of  Pa- 
lestrina.  Tivoli  appears  to  have  been 
the  head-quarters  of  the  Ghibeline 
chiefs  until  the  cardinals  assembled 
at  Anagni,  and  elected  Sinibaldo  de' 
Fieschi  to  the  papal  chair  under  the 
name  of  Innocent  IV.  In  the  14th 
century  Rienzi  made  it  his  head- 
quarters during  his  expedition  against 
Falestrina :  he  resided  there  for  some 
days,  and  harangued  the  people  in 
the  square  of  S.  Lorenzo.  In  the 
following  century  it  was  occupied  by 
Braccio  Fortebraccio  of  Perugia  and 
by  the  house  of  Colonna;  and  in 
order  to  control  the  people  and  re- 
duce them  to  obedience,  Pius  II. 
built  the  citadel  which  we  still  see. 
In  later  times  it  became  noted  in  the 
contests  of  the  Orsini,  the  Carafieschi, 
and  the  duke  of  Alba;  but  the  his- 
tory of  these  events  presents  no  facts 
which  call  for  a  detailed  description. 

Modern  Tivoli  is  one  of  the  roost 
important  cities  of  the  Comarca,  the 
capital  of  a  distretto  of  the  same  name. 
It  is  situated  on  the  slopes  of  Monte 
Ripoli,  supposed  to  have  been  so 
called  from  Rubellius,  the  proprietor 
of  one  of  the  Tiburtine  villas.  Its 
height  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is 
830  feet  The  population  of  the  dis- 
trict is  about  17,000  souls;  that  of 
the  city  itself,  by  the  raccolta  of  1833, 
la  6300.  The  chief  interest  of  Tivoli  is 
derived  from  its  picturesque  position, 
from  the  fiiUs  of  the  Anio,  and  from 
the  ruins  of  the  temples  and  villas, 
which  still  attest  its  popularity  among 
the  rich  patricians  of  ancient  Rome. 
It  has  little  modern  interest,  and  In- 
deed has  rather  an  indifferent  charac- 
ter. Its  uncertain  and  stormy  cli- 
mate, and  the  number  of  funerals, 
which  give  a  bad  impression  of  its  sa- 
lubrity, are  commemorated  in  the  po- 
pular distich :— 

-  Tivoli  di  mal  cooforto, 
O  plovc,  o  Ura  vento^  o  tuona  amorto.*' 

The  morals  of  the  inbabitaats  are 


proved  by  the  fiict,  that  In  a  popula« 
lation  of  17,000  souls  there  were 
brought  before  the  magistrates  of  the 
district  in  1838,  no  less  than  1500 
cases  of  fights,  in  which  180  persons 
were  dangerously  wounded,  and  22 
killed.  Two  of  its  churches,  S.  An- 
drea and  La  Caritii,  date  from  the 
fifth  century.  Among  the  antiqui- 
ties of  the  town  the  principal  object 
is  the  Temple  of  the  Tiburtine  Sibyl^ 
a  beautiful  building  of  the  best  times 
of  art, 'finely  placed  on  a  rock  over- 
hanging the  valley  of  the  cascades. 
The  antiquaries  of  the  last  century 
endeavoured  to  supersede  this  title 
for  that  of  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  on 
the  ground  that  all  the  temples  dedi- 
cated to  the  latter  deity  were  round : 
but  there  is  no  proof  that  there  was 
any  temple  at  Tibur  dedicated  to 
Vesta ;  and  to  show  how  little  faith 
can  be  placed  in  the  arguments  of  the 
antiquaries,  we  may  mention  that 
Professor  Nibby,  in  his  last  work, 
peremptorily  rejects  both  titles,  and 
contends  that  it  is  the  Temple  of  Her* 
cules  Sazonus.  In  these  cases  the  popu- 
lar name  promises  to  outlive  the  theo- 
ries of  the  antiquaries,  and  we  know 
of  no  arguments  which  have  offered 
sufficient  evidence  to  induce  us  to  re- 
ject the  ancient  and  poetical  tradition. 
It  b  a  circular  temple,  21}  feet  in 
diameter,  surrounded  by  an  open  por- 
tico of  18  columns,  10  of  which  re- 
main. They  are  of  stuccoed  travertine* 
in  the  Corinthian  order,  and  are  18 
feet  high  without  the  capitals,  which 
are  ornamented  with  lilies.  The  en- 
tablature is  sculptured  with  festoons 
of  flowers  and  heads  of  oxen;  and 
the  architrave  bears  the  inscription 
L .  GBLLio  .  L .  The  cella  is  composed 
of  small  polygons  of  tufa  and  traver- 
tine, and  has  two  small  windows. 
On  the  lef^  of  this  temple  is  that 
called  by  different  writers  the  Temple 
of  Drusilla,  the  Temple  of  the  Sibyl» 
and  the  Tempk  of  Vesta.  It  is  an 
oblong  building  of  travertine,  with  an 
open  portico  of  fi>ur  columns  of  the 
Ionic  order.  It  is  now  converted  into 
a  church  dedicated  to  ^  <»«^^is^kVii<QX 


tXCCBBTOys  rROM  ROWB(fftwlft). 


Id  interior  pnwnts  nolliing  to  e»ll 
Ibr  ol>wrvmtion.  Frara  tlic  Tcmi-le 
of  th»  Siltyl  •  prelty  p«th,  made  bit 
Ocnrr^  Miollih  leodi  to  the  Gralloei 
of  Ntplune  and  the  Sjrens,  Ihe  two 
princtp*!  poinU  from  which  the  FaHi 
of  (A*  Awia  werv  s«en.  a  few  jnn 
UMiv  to  the  |^>(<!*t  idTintBge.  Ilie 
valci  w«i  carried  oTer  a  nu«ivc  wall 
built  bjr  Siitui  V„  nnil  &U  into  the 
black  gulf  calk-d  the  Omlto  of  Nep- 
tune, producing  by  its  eontrsst  with 
the  foam  and  apray  of  the  catxract 
one  of  Ihe  nH»t  itriking  tcenei  of 
kinil  in  Europe.  The  inundation 
ie2G    completely    changed    the    chn- 


tifei 


PI 


)uth  of  the 


iAa,uo-,ei    1 


of  the  wall  of  Ki 

by   the  ruih  of 

away  Ihe  church  of  S.  Lucia,  and  ^6 

liou«eii  near  the  Temple  of  the  Sihyl. 

It   undermined  the  base  of  the  rock 

ury  to  diterl  the  eourw  uf  the  river, 
in  order  to  preaerre  it  from  destruc- 
tion. Tlie«  ehangei 
the  i^ottaei  of  ttieir  interest,  and  they 
ore  now  hardly  worth  a  Tisit  except 
fiir  the  purpose  of  studying  the  line 
sections  of  the  traverlioe  rock.  The 
new  Falls  were  formed  hy  culling  a 
tunnel  through  Monte  Calillo,  im- 
mediately opposite  the  temple.  This 
difficult  task  was  ably  executed  by 


bridge  in  189^:.  near  the  n 
cbaiinel :  it  is  better  pre 
the  one  just  mentioned,  and  is  more 
likely  to  ha*e  been  the  bridge  of  the 
Valerian  Way.  Nibby  ctipposed,  with 
great  probability,  that  it  was  ruined 
by  the  inundnlion  recorded  by  Pliny, 
which  took  place  x.b.  165.  The  ce- 
metery near  this  ruin  vaa  diECOvered 
at  the  same  time :  it  contained  many 
tcpiilchral  monuments  and  sevcnil 
skeletons ;  the  most  remarkable  HH^ 
nument  wa>  the  cenotaph  of  Lniani 
Mcmmius  Afer  Senecio,  procoBiul  ti' 
Sicily,  who  died  a.  d.  107.  Good 
walks  have  been  cut  on  both  sides  of 
inlley   leading    to    the    different 


i  Bomi 


engin 


r  Fold 


d  the 


)  its  new  channel 
in  1834,  in  the  presence  of  the  pope. 
The  river  falls  into  Ihe  Talley  in  a 
solid  raaas  to  Ihe  depth  of  about  ao 
feet.  The  eRtct  of  its  cascade  is 
scarcely  inferior  to  that  of  the  upper 
portion  of  the  Falls  of  Terni.  The 
catastrophe  of  1836,  hv  diierting  the 
courw  of  the  rirer,  laid  open  the 
ruins  of  two  ancient  bridges  and  an 
ancient  cemetery.  The  first  bridge 
is  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
town,  and  was  brought  to  light  by 
the  change  of  the  current :  it  was  at 
first  supposed  to  be  the  Pons  Vale- 
rius, oyer  which  iho  Tia  Valeria 
passed  in  its  course  up  the  valley. 
■J'he  siiUsequeut  worka  of  Folchi  for 
the  new  passage  diseloaed  the  HcottA  v  tion  on  ticui  kVo^«  at  Moate  Peschia« 


the  Palls,  There  i 
leading  hy  Ihe  circular  I 
struelwl  by  General  Mio; 
the  TJIIa  nf  L.  Varro,  t 
point  For  seeing  the  Cascatelle  and 
the  Villa  ofMeoinas:  it  crosses  the 
ancient  bridge  a  little  lower  down, 
and  returns  by  the  Villa  d'Este  and 
the  Villa  of  Meccnas  to  the  toirn. 

'ilie  CaieattUt,  a  series  of  pretty 
cascades  fbnned  by  Ihe  waters  of  tlw 
Anio,  after  they  have  served  the  pur- 
poses of  the  iron  manufactories.    The 

cascades;  the  other  forms  those  which 
issue  from  the  Villa  of  IVIecienaa,  ud 
fiill  into  the  valley  at  the  height  of 
more  than  100  feel.  Tlie  eflect  of 
these  cascades  conlrnsted  with  the 
brilliant  vegetation  of  the  valley  and 
the  rich  colouring  uf  the  massive 
brickwork  of  the  villa,  produce  > 
scene  of  striking  inCeresI,  whiob  our 
countryman  Dessoulsvy  has  made  Et* 

of  England.  Near  the  Cascatelle  are 
painted  out  Ihe  ruins  of  the  Villa  if 
Catidliu.  M  the  church  of  S.  An- 
tonio are  those  of  the  Filla  o/  SoOh*^ 
attributed  by  the  local  ciceroni  with. 
out  a  shadow  uf  authority  to  Horace. 
The  church  of  the  Madonna  di  Quin- 
tiliolo,  not  far  distant,  is  built  on  the 
ruins  of  the  faia  nf  Quintiliiu  Vara, 
commemorated  hy  Hor         ''     '' 


Papal  States.']    excursions  from  rome  (rtvo/t). 


549 


Tatore  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
that  can  be  imagined :  the  ruins  are 
of  great  extent,  and  the  upper  terrace 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Villa  of 
Mecsnas,  the  Cascatelle,  and  the 
Campagna  of  Rome,  extending  in 
fine  weather  to  the  sea.  The  mag- 
nificence of  the  villa  is  proved  by  the 
numerous  statues,  moi$aics,  and  other 
works  of  art  which  have  been  found 
among  its  ruins,  many  of  which  have 
been  already  noticed  in  our  descrip- 
tion of  the  Vatican  museum.  Half 
a  mile  from  this  is  the  little  stream  of 
the  Acquoria,  which  we  pass  by  an 
ancient  bridge  in  a  good  state  of  pre- 
servation, and  afterwards  cross  the 
Anio  by  one  of  wood.  In  returning 
to  Tivoli  we  pass  over  the  ancient 
Via  Tiburtina,  of  which  several  por- 
tions are  still  perfect :  this  leads  us  to 
the  ViUa  of  Meceenat,  the  most  ex- 
tensive ruin  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Tivoli.  Nibby  considers  it  the  great 
Temple  of  Hercules,  for  which  llbur 
was  celebrated  from  the  earliest  times, 
and  states  with  truth  that  there  is  no 
classical  authority  whatever  for  its 
popular  name.  He  contends  also  that 
an  attentive  examination  of  the  ruin 
will  prove  that  it  has  none  of  the 
elements  of  a  Roman  villa,  and  that 
it  has  a  strong  analogy  with  the 
Temple  of  Fortune  at  Palestrina. 
The  extent  of  the  edifice  rendered  it 
necessary  to  carry  the  road  under  a 
long  corridor  of  great  height,  of  which 
several  arches  are  still  standing.  The 
principal  ruin  now  vbible  is  a  square 
building  or  eavadium^  with  half  co- 
lumns of  the  Doric  order  and  arcades, 
forming  the  entrance  to  the  portico. 
At  one  end  of  this  is  a  small  cascade, 
which  adds  to  the  picturesque  beauty 
of  the  ruin.  Behind  are  two  suites 
of  chambers,  built  upon  a  large  sub- 
terranean apartment,  supposed  to  have 
been  a  reservoir  for  water.  On  one 
side  is  a  canal,  through  which  a  rapid 
torrent  discharges  itself  under  one  of 
the  arcades,  forming  another  pretty 
full.  From  the  terrace  is  a  fine  view 
of  the  Campagna.  'llie  ruin  was  con- 
verted by  Lucien  Buonaparte  into  an 


iron  manufactory,  still  in  operation ; 
the  articles  manufactured  are  princi- 
pally screws;  they  are  in  great  de- 
mand throughout  the  States,  and  the 
amount  produced  annually  is  valued 
at  12,000  scudi.  In  a  vineyard  near 
the  Villa  of  Mecsenas  are  the  ruins  of 
a  building,  octagonal  externally  and 
circular  internally,  resembling  the 
Temple  of  Minerva  Medica  at  Rome. 
Its  popular  name  is  the  Tetnpio  delta 
Tosse;  but  some  antiquaries,  struck 
with  the  absurdity  of  a  temple  to  such 
a  goddess  as  Cough,  have  called  it 
the  sepulchre  of  the  Tossia  family. 
Nibby,  however,  ascertained  that  the 
name  is  not  to  be  traced  beyond  the 
1 6th  century,  and  that  the  construc- 
tion of  the  building  is  not  more  an- 
cient than  the  4th  century.  He  in- 
clines to  the  idea  that  it  was  erected 
for  Christian  worship :  the  remains  ot 
paintings  in  the  interior  representing 
the  Saviour  and  the  Virgin,  give  great 
probability  to  his  opinion. 

The  other  villas  which  are  known 
to  have  existed  at  Tivoli,  and  of  which 
the  local  antiquaries  profess  to  show 
the  ruins  or  the  sites,  are  those  of 
Vopiscus,  Piso,  Cassius,  Munatius 
Plancus,  Ventidius  Bassus,  Fuscus, 
Propertius,  &c.  With  the  exception 
of  the  Villa  of  Cassius,  many  of  these 
ruins  are  mere  conjectures,  and  it 
would  be  an  unprofitable  task  to  fol- 
low the  speculations  upon  which  their 
doubtful  authenticity  depends.  The 
walls  which  support  the  terraces  of 
the  villas  of  Brutus  and  of  Bassus 
are  polygonal ;  and  that  of  Fuscus, 
below  the  Strada  di  Carciano,  is  a 
fine  specimen  of  Roman  work,  more 
than  100  feet  in  length.  At  Carciano, 
under  the  Casino  of  the  Greek  Col- 
lege, are  the  remains  of  the  ViUa  of 
Cassius.  The  ruins  of  this  noble  villa 
are  still  very  extensive,  and  have  con- 
tributed largely  to  the  great  museums 
of  Europe.  In  the  16th  century  Car- 
dinal Ferdinando  de*  Medici  and  the 
Archbishop  Bandini  of  Siena  made 
considerable  excavations,  which  were 
attended  with  interesting  results,  and 
brought  to  light  many  ^MAitA&xl  v^i^ 


Ufv^^^Ew 


xaMnsfoifi  ymw^imm(Vh 


cimNU  of  Kncicnl  an.  Thr  nnEaicim '  dippcl  hcdgei  find  few  Hilmij 
«rD*Anf<!l»lnl7T4wurc'iiU  more;  Die  natuml  beauties  of  the 
Btopanuit ;  tbe  ilMucii  and  maililea  ing  scud«7  ;  and  the  mler-irorH 
MA  ha  fioiHUd  weie  purchued  I  culled  t)ie  Girandola,  aie  now  jmtljr 
f  Piiu  Vt.  fot  the  Viticui,  and  arc  nrgarded  as  a  stTungc  perversioa  of 
lyeluHdamonglhi!  most  Tnluable  I  liuic  in  the  neighbouThcKHl  of  the 
■um  ofthat  mtueum.  Neariy  all '  giandcascades.  NolwithstaDdJpgtbcte 
Matiua  and  busts  in  the  ItsU  ofideTccU,  the  besutifiil  pines  and  tj- 
M  MuiM  (p.  473.)  were  found  here,    pieasei  of  the  garden 


viib  many  other  eelchrated 
»  vhioh  hate  been  noticed  in  oui 
tl  dtMTiption  of  the  miiwuTn. 
BeyoDd  the  PorU  S.  Cio*anni, 
■bout  half  a  mile  distant,  are  the  re- 
muna  of  a  nicular  tomb,  tupposed  to 
be  tbal  of  C.  Aufestiut  Sotei,  the 
^ytieian.vhiwe  in»Tiptioa  was  fmind 
upon  the  spot.  About  a  quarter  of 
•  nllo  beyond  it  the  road  passes  unde 
lbs  ardi  of  the  Marcian  aqueduct 
AOmposed  ef  large  blocks  of  lufa 
Near  tbi«  the  ipecus  of  the  Ani. 
Vetai ■ 


resort  of  artists,  and  the  ^iew 
from  ttie  terrace  over  the  plain  of  tbs 
Csmpagna  is  one  of  the  Guest 


i-fivo 


Theec 
'^ided  i 


a  traditi 


irequently  rq>ca(ed,  but 
foundation  iu  fact.  Tha  erroi  no 
doubt  arose  fnnn  the  confuMon  btf, 
tvcen  the  two  cardinals  of  the  anM 
nama  :  Cardinal  Ippolito  I.,  the  pai 
of  Arinsto,  did   not  raride  ■( 


TiToli;  and  tl 


tills ' 


II.  u 


tilJSyc 


I 


K£' 


Ibe  magailieent  arch  of  the  Claudinu  |  Travellers  who  arc  dedroos  of  ex- 
aqueduct,  surmounted  by  a  tower  of  plorin^  the  picturesque  and  dasdsal 
tba  middle  ages,  built  b;  the  Tibur*  localities  of  the  Sabine  hills  thouid 
tinei  as  a  itronghold  agunsi  the  at-  nnke  TivoH  Ihdr  bead^uarlen  ibr 
lacks  of  the  Orsini,  lords  of  Ciutel  some  dsjs,  and  arrange  a  aeiies  of 
Madama:  it  is  45  feet  high  and  95  exounions  to  the  most  interesttDg 
fed  broad.  From  the  modem  bndge  districts.  It  would  be  impoaaibla 
ve  see  the  ruins  of  two  other  aque-  within  the  limits  of  this  work  to  de- 
ducts, and  beyond  them  from  tbe  scribe  the  numerous  objects  of  nslintl 
higher  gnnind  we  recognise  a  third  ;  beauty  for  which  every  valley  in  the 
Ibe  first  is  the  Claudiaa  ;  the  second  nclfthbourhond  is  remarkable.  Many 
ia  tbe  Marcian ;  tbe  third  and  highest  of  these  scenes  are  celebrated  by  I^ 
Is  the  Anio  Nuovo.  The  ruins  of,  nee,  and  others  still  retain  in  Ihor 
Ihese  aqueducts  combine  with  the  '  names  and  ruins  the  traces  of  citisK 
totnantie  scenery  of  the  valley  to  pro.  i  whose  origin  is  anterior  to  that  of 
duee  a  succesnoa  of  pictures  which  Rome.  Tlie  traveller  who  seta  out 
would  aSbrd  occupation  for  many  |  to  explore  these  talleys  will  be  struck 
*  Lfs  to  the  landsoape  artist.  with  the  frequent  recurrence  of  po- 

Close  to  the  entrance  of  Tivoli,  at  lygonal  walla,  eKhibiting  the  usual 
_.e  Porta  Ilomano,  is  the  HUa  tTEite,  \  characteriaticB  of  the  Pelasgic  a^Ie, 
tiuilt  in  1549  from  the  designs  of  i  which  the  Romans  imitated  as  late  I* 
Pirro  Ligorjo  by  Cardinal  Ippolito  |  the  first  period  of  the  empire.  Many 
d'Este  II.,  Eon  of  Alfonso  duke  ofiof  these  walls  appear  (o  have  been 
Ferraia.  Though  picturesquely  si- ,  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  sup* 
tuated,  it  is  now  deserted  and  fest. porting  the  ancient  roads,  and  ocour 
blling  into  ruin.  The  casino,  de-  I  in  places  where  no  cities  could  have 
eoiat^  with  frescoes  by  Federigo  eiisied.  The  most  interesting  ex- 
Zuccari,  Muiiani,  and  other  contcm-  cursions  from  Tivoli  nrc  those  to  Su- 
porarj  painters,  representing  the  hia-  biaco,  up  the  valley  of  the  Anio ;  \o 
torji  of  Tivoli,  is  perishing  from  neg-' Licenia,  the  site  of  Horace's  villa 
Its    formal    iilanlalioia     ani.  ani  Sahuu;  imw,  and  the  ascent  of 


Papal StcOesJ]    excursions  from  rome  {Subiaco).  551 


Monte  Genaro.  The  road  to  Subiaco, 
following  for  some  miles  the  ancient 
Via  Valeria,  is  practicable  for  car- 
riages ;  but  that  to  Licenza  and  the 
ascent  of  Monte  Genaro  must  be  ac- 
complished on  horseback  or  on  foot. 
The  pedestrian  would  find  an  endless 
source  of  enjoyment  in  the  mountains 
around  Tivoli. 

SUBIACO, 

28  miles  from  Tivoli,  and  44  from 
Rome.  The  road  during  the  whole 
distance  ascends  the  right  bank  of  the 
Anio.  About  6  miles  from  Tivoli, 
on  the  right  hand,  is  a  ruined  tower 
of  the  ISth  century  called  Saeco  Muro, 
remarkable  for  some  remains  of  poly- 
gonal walls,  which  probably  mark 
the  site  of  some  small  town  dependent 
on  ancient  Tibur  at  an  early  period 
of  the  empire.  In  1821,  an  inscrip- 
tion of  the  time  of  Tiberius  was  found 
there,  recording  the  name  of  C.  Nen- 
nius  Bassus,  praefect  'of  the  Fabri  at 
Carthage  under  Marcus  Silanus,  the 
£ither-in-law  of  Caligula,  whose  name 


is  so  often  mentioned  by  Tacitus.    In   Freddo,     The  road  from  Roviano  to 
the  middle  ages  the  castle  belonged   oubiaco  is  very  beautiful.      On  the 


to  the  Orsini,  and  was  abandoned  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  15th  century. 
About  2  miles  beyond  Sacco  Muro  is 
Vicovaro,  the  ancient  Varia,  a  small 
village  of  1000  souls,  picturesquely 
placed  on  a  hill  above  the  road,  and 
distinguished  by  the  fine  old  baronial 
castle  of  the  Bolognetti  fiunily  and' 
by  some  remains  of  polygonal  walls. 
Near  it  is  the  ancient  bridge  of  the 
Claudian  aqueduct  2  miles  beyond 
Vicovaro  is  the  convent  of  S,  Ckmmato, 
finely  situated  on  a  lofty  rock  above 
the  deep  glen  of  the  Anio,  and  sur- 
rounded by  cypresses.  In  the  dis- 
tance, l>chind  the  convent,  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Saracinescot  perched  on  the 
summit  of  a  lofly  conical  hill  covered 
with  wuod,  which  adds  greatly  to  the 
beauty  of  the  landscape.  A  local 
tradition  refers  the  name  to  a  colony 
of  Saracens,  and  it  is  remarkable  that 
many  of  the  inhabitants  have  Arabic 
names,  among  which  that  of  Alman- 
zor  is  not  uncommon.     The  valley  of 


the  Anio  was  desolated  by  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Saracens  about  the  year 
876,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  a 
party  of  the  invaders  formed  a  settle- 
ment on  this  spot,  as  the  name  occurs 
in  an  inscription  of  the  year  1052, 
preserved  in  the  monastery  of  Santa 
Scolastica  at  Subiaco,  under  the  name 
of  "  Rocca  Sarraceniscum.**  Near  Bo^ 
viano  the  river  makes  a  sudden  bend 
almost  at  right  angles.     Below  this 
town,  the  road  to  Subiaco  branches 
off  from  the  Via  Valeria  and  pursues 
its  course  up  the  valley  of  the  Anio. 
The   Valerian  Way  continues  in  a 
direct  line  to  the  Abruzzi  by  Carsoli, 
the  ancient  city  of  Carseoli,  and  by 
the  plains  of  Tagliacozzo  (see  Hand- 
book for  S.  Italy),    'it  is  the  most 
direct  road  from  Rome  to  the  lake  of 
Celano,  but  is  traversed  only  on  horse- 
back  or  in  the  common  cars  of  the 
country.    The  papal  frontier-station  is 
at  the  little  village  otAraoli,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Roviano.     Another  station 
for  a  bridle-path,  which  avoids  the  cir- 
cuitous route   by   Arsoli,   is  at  Rio 


opposite  bank  of  the  Anio  is  Anticoli, 
prettily  situated  on  the  slopes  of  a 
hill  above  the  river.  Before  reach- 
ing Agosta,  a  picturesque  little  village 
of  600  souls  on  the  left  of  the  road, 
are  the  celebrated  springs  called  Le 
Sirene,  which  burst  in  large  volumes 
of  bright  crystal  water  from  the  base 
of  the  mountains:  the  ancients  be- 
lieved that  they  issued  by  subter- 
ranean channels  from  the  lake  of 
Celano.  Immediately  opposite  is 
MaranOf  a  small  village  on  an  msu- 
lated  hill  on  the  left  bank.  Farther 
on,  JRocca  di  Mezzo  is  passed ;  and 
beyond  it,  on  a  peak  apparently  in- 
accessible^ is  the  populous  village  of 
Cerbara,  Subiaco  is  seen  for  the  first 
time  near  this  spot :  nothing  can  be 
imagined  more  picturesque  than  its 
position  among  the  richly-wooded 
hills  by  which  it  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides.  SubicuiOf  the  ancient  Subla- 
queum,  is  the  chief  town  of  a  dittretto 
of  the  Comarca,  with  a  population  q€ 


VRCUHIOM  VMU  BAM*  {Smhiaeo). 


■ocwnl    Till*.      The  ^ 
1  of  the'  1052,  and   U 


>n<I  cloUt< 


rT  AatPstTom 
examples  of  tfae  in  tro- 


ll derived  it 
_  a  fHiin  Ihc  ■rtificlll  III 
VilU  of  Ncto,  Iwlow  which  (i 

il  vu  buih.  The  maiaru  tovn  ii  duclion  of  Galhu:BrcbitpFtUTV:OBe<)[ 
mart  rcnwtluble  for  lUo  unTivalUd  Ihc  amdes  a  of  marble,  omBmoittd 
Iwaut;  of  ils  ictnCTy  tlinn  for  "nT  |  with  baK-telie&,  and  surmounied  if 
ot^Ml  of  inlerert  witliin  iti  walls.  | »  tutiie  a(  the  Virgrin  throned  be- 
Th»  fclU  of  til*  tiTw  below  the  town,  |  tween  two  lions.  Under  the  poiiics 
th*  Rna  old  cutle  on  the  auiiiroil  of  j  ii  ■  curious  inoDunient  of  two  sttgt 
tb*  hill  which  for  miuij  agei  wa»  the  I  drinking:  one  bears  an  inscriplioa 
Minmer  residence  of  the  popei,  the  I  recordioglhcfbundation  of  the  bnild- 
nMgniitecnt  fbmts  of  the  valley,  and  ,  jng  in  9S1 :  snolher  inscription  te- 
theBOhlemonaWeries  which  have  giren  Inies  to  the  coDStruclion  of  the  tover, 
it  ■ueh  cclebritT  in  the  ecc1e«instical !  and  enomerites  the  possession  of  Uw 
faiUory  of  the  middle  ages,  all  com-  '  monartery  in  1052.  The  third  clnilv 
o  make  it  one  of  the  fiirourite  i  is  also  Gothic,  but  evidently  not 
t  of  the  Undiicape  painters  of  earlier  than  the  13th  centarj.  Tlie 
The  dark  and  narrow  church,  dedicsted  to  S.  ScDlastie% 
e  town  itself  are  by  no  contains  nothing  which  ealls  li>r  pir- 
■  inriliog  to  the  stranger:  the  ticular  description.  The  nionartely 
Otisc*  h»»e  an  air  of  antiquity  wlildi  i  was  once  femous  for  its  library,  rich 
carries  us  back  to  the  middle  ages  in  MSS.  and  diplomas.  Nearly  aU 
more  than  any  other  town  in  the  vi-  |  these  trensiires  hare  been  dispmed; 
einily  of  Home.  The  church  was  but  it  has  obtained  a  lasting  celebrity 
built  by  Pius  VI.,  who  was  abbot  of  in  the   history  of  ty 


bis  eleraiion  lathe  pspa]  chair:  the 
palace  of  the  abbots  n-as  alw  enlarjfed. 
and  modemiicd  by  the  same  pontiff. 

doieeof  Pius  IX.,  who  appointed  him- 
Bdf  abbot  in  1847,  and  thus  diverted 
tbe  large  revenues  of  the  monastery 
(tain  the  bands  of  individuals  la  the 
aerviee  of  the  slate.  About  a  mile 
from  the  town,  on  a  bill  above  the 
river,  we  may  still  trace  the  ruins  of 
Iftro'i  nna.  It  was  in  this  villa,  as 
we  are  told  by  Tacitus  and  Phllos- 
tratu^  that  the  cup  of  the  tyrant  was 
■truck  by  Ji({htning  while  he  was  in 
tbe  act  of  drinking,  and  the  tjible 
smthTown  by  the  shock.  Near  this 
l3i  the  celebrated  Manailtry  of  Sania 
'&oAu'i«i.  founded  in  the  5th  century, 


first  place  in  Italy  in  which  the  print- 
ing-press vras  established  by  the  Ger- 
man printers,  Sweynheim  and  ftn- 
□aiti.  Their  edition  of  Lactantius 
was  their  first  production :  it  ai^wared 
in  1  i65,  and  B  copy  is  still  presemd 
in  the  monastery  as  an  historical  »■ 
cord.  They  remained  at  Subiaco 
until  1467,  when  they  removed  to 
Rome,  in  consequence,  it  is  snid,  of 
same  disagreement  with  the  monks: 
their  establishment  in  that  city  ii 
noticed  at  p.  5S0.      A  mile  from  S. 


1^ 


The  ascent  is  steep,  but  the  scenery 

is  so  grand  that  no  descriptioa  con  do 
justice  to  it.  St.  Benedict  retired 
here  in  his  early  joolh,  about  i.n. 
450.  The  monastery  was  rebuilt  in 
S47;  the  lower  church  dates  ttoia 
1059,  the  upper  church  from  1 066, 
Crst  is  modern,  but  contains  some  and  the  cloister  ftoro  1235.  It  is 
Mteient  monuments;  among  which  |  built  against  the  rocky  hill  on  nine 
may  be  noticed  the  sarcophagus  with 'arches  of  considerable  height,  nnd 
bacchannlian  bas-reliefs,  a  Bacchic  |  consists  of  two  long  stories.  mie 
head,  a  line  column  of  porphyry  and  i  cave  in  the  toner  part  oF  the  building 
■Dother  of  giatio  antico,  said  to  have  I  is  supposed  to  be  of  great  antiquity, 
ipten  AuikI  in  the  luin^  of   Nccii's'Mid   i^   identilied   by   some   autho- 


Papal  States."]  excursions  from  rome  {Sabine  Farm).    553 


rities  with  the  oracle  of  Faunus.  It 
contains  a  statue  of  St.  Benedict  by 
Bernini.  The  two  chapels  leading 
to  it  were  painted  in  1219  by  Con- 
ciolo,  one  of  the  earliest  Italian  masters, 
who  has  recorded  his  name,  ConxioiHS 
pinxit.  In  the  sacristy  is  a  Holy 
Family,  attributed  to  Correggio  (?), 
The  garden  is  still  remarkable  for  its 
plantations  of  roses,  said  to  be  de- 
scended from  those  which  St.  Bene- 
dict cultivated  with  his  own  hand. 
Another  legend  states  that  they  were 
originally  a  bed  of  thorns  on  which 
St  Benedict  rolled  himself  to  extin- 
guish the  violence  of  his  passions,  and 
were  miraculously  converted  into  roses 
by  St.  Francis  when  he  visited  the 
monastery  in  1223.  On  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river  is  the  picturesque 
mass  of  Monte  Carpineto,  covered 
with  hornbeams  (car/>i»i),  from  which 
it  derives  its  name.  On  the  slopes 
of  the  hill  are  the  ruins  of  a  Nym- 
phaeum,  supposed  to  belong  to  Nero*s 
Baths.  From  Subiaco  a  bridle-road 
leads  over  the  lower  slopes  of  Monte 
Carpineto  to  the  picturesque  villages 
of  Olevano  and  Genazzano,  Olevano 
is  about  8  miles  from  Subiaco;  but 
as  it  is  more  generally  visited  from 
Palestrina,  we  shall  reserve  an  ac- 
count of  it  for  our  description  of  that 
place. 

HoRACs*s  Sabine  Farm,  and  Monti 

GSNARO. 

The  distance  from  Hvoli  to  the 
Villa  and  Sabine  Farm  of  Horace  is 
12  miles.  The  road,  as  far  as  the 
Convent  of  S.  Cosimato,  is  described 
in  the  preceding  excursion.  From 
that  point  it  is  no  longer  practicable 
for  carriages,  and  travellers  must  there- 
fore make  arrangements  at  Tivoli,  and 
perform  the  excursion  either  on  horse- 
back or  on  foot  Leaving  S.  Cosi- 
mato on  the  right,  the  road  strikes  off 
to  the  north-east,  soon  after  passing 
Vicovaro.  Near  this  point  on  the 
right  hand  is  the  little  village  of 
BarddkL,  the  Mandela  of  Horace. 
About  2  miles  fiurther  is  Rocea  Gio. 
roue,  situated  on  a  steep  rock  above 


the  road,  and  supposed  to  be  the  Arx 
Junonis  (^Rocca  Giunone).  In  the 
church  is  preserved  an  ancient  inscrip- 
tion recording  the  restoration  of  the 
Temple  of  Victory  by  Vespasian. 
The  antiquaries  regard  this  fact  as  a 
proof  that  it  is  the  Fanum  Vacunx, 
or  the  Temple  of  Juno  Vietrix,  cele- 
brated by  Horace,  which  would  con- 
firm the  etymology  of  the  modern 
name.  About  2  miles  farther  up  the 
valley  is  Licenza,  the  ancient  Di- 
gentia. 

'*  Me  quotiet  reflcit  ^elidut  Digentia  rivus, 
Quem  Mandela  bibit  rugotus  frigore  pa- 
gus."  Hor.  Ep.  I.  xviii. 

It  is  a  small  mountain-village  of  700 
souls,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
bright  clear  stream  which  Horace 
celebrates  under  the  same  name.  The 
site  of  the  Villa  of  Horace  is  placed 
on  the  right  of  the  road,  about  mid- 
way between  it  and  the  river,  a  short 
distance  before  we  reach  the  village. 
Nothing  now  remains  but  two  capitals 
and  some  other  fragments  of  Doric 
columns,  and  a  white  mosaic  pave- 
ment partly  covered  by  a  vineyard. 
The  names  of  many  places  in  the 
neighbourhood  preserve  some  record 
of  classical  times :  gli  Ortuini,  on  the 
slopes  of  the  Monte  Rotondo,  cannot 
be  mistaken;  and  the  village  of  La 
Rustica,  on  the  right  side  of  the  valley 
as  we  ascend,  recalls  the  Ustica  of  the 
poet: — 

-  Utcunque  dulci,  Tyndari,  flttuU 
Vallet,  et  U«tie«  cubantii 
Lcvia  penoDuere  Saxa.** 

Od,  L  17. 

Hieher  up  the  valley,  in  a  beautiful 
and  romantic  spot  under  Monte  Cor- 
nazzano,  are  two  springs,  identified 
with  the  Fons  Blandusiae : — 

**  O  Font  Blandusiv,  tplendidlor  vitro 
Dulci  digne  mero.  non  line  flnribui 
Cnu  donaberia  nanlo.**      Od.  III.  IS. 

Above  Licenza  is  the  village  of  Ciri- 
tdla,  from  which  a  bridle-path  leads 
over  the  mountains  to  Ptdombarat  a 
small  village  of  2600  souls,  6  miles 
distant.  Travellers  usually  make  the 
A$eent  of  Momit  Gtmaro  from  this 
point    Those  who  ascend  direct.  firooL 


( 


infcmnoire  TRoM  KtmtK  f  feStes  i 


btjr  take  the  roiul  liwlin^  lo  Santo 
t  of  ihe  iTiotl  )>ictiirm|Ue 
_  ._  in  Ibe  cLuii,  liluiIcJ  on  ■ 
ilt)'''bill,  remnrkilili:  Ibr  the  cuteU 

le  road  hpte  ceaws.  ind  we  Billow 
(  dbunn  »  bridle-pith  eom- 
Bding  Hoe  *icwi  of  RrKCn  Ciovane, 
1  (t  Imgtb  ilrikc  iiilo  the  foml 
iMth  tbe  ungutar  laiaa  of  insuUted 
alone  oiled  La  Morn.  The  lut 
9  Ihe  Praloiie  from  thi<  side 
ndy  sleep,  but  Ihe  opening 
t  the  pUin'  it  M  beiutirul,  t)iit  Ihe 
Miltait  of  icenery  renders   it  by  no  | 


ilea 


!ing  por 


nof. 


K 


The  Moent  from  the 
aide  of  Lieenu  lo  ihe  Pmtone  is  iens 
diaieulc,  •nd  follows  the  depression  in 
Ihe  chain  between  Monlu  Genaro  and 
Monte  Pennecchio.  The  Fralone  is 
celebrated  for  its  pastures,  and  Ibe 
Irif  diet  i^nenlly  finds  it  covered  with 
cattle.  The  annunl  festa  at  its  Utile 
eliapel  !•  attended  b;  the  peasantry 
ftom  all  parU  of  Ihe  Sabine  hilh. 
From  thit  plain  we  ascend  10  the  sum- 
mit of  Monte  Gcnaru,  which  is  41 G5 
feet  abate  the  cea,  and  with  the  ei- 
Mplion  of  Monte  Guadagnolo,  louth- 
-  -  if  Tuoli,  ii  the  highest  point  of 
1  winch  bounds  Ibe  Cam- 
the  east.  There  Is  no  doubt 
ic  Mom  Lucrelilis.  which  Ho- 
raoe  hai  celebrated  in  his  moil  beau- 
tiful ode  already  quoted,  whs  one  of 
tbe  peaks  of  this  ridge,  mid  many 
'  identify  it  with  Monte  Genaro 
The  view  commanded  during 
mcnse  plains 
lOf  the  CailipagnB  is  one  of  tbe  dnest 
Itfllj,  and  amply  repays  tlie 

the  line  oreoatt  as  for  as  Monte  Cir- 
sello.  the  whole  line  of  tlio  Volscian 
mountains  beyond  the  Alban  hills, 
■Dd  commands  nearly  all  the  valleys 
of  the  Apennines  (rom  the  Neapoli- 
ft-onlier,  beyond  Monte  Guada- 
lalo,  to  the  monastery  ot  Taifa  on 


the  north.  On  the  1 
ancient  tumulus  of  loos. 
Tellers  who  are  desirous  to  vary  iheit 
route  In  returning  to  Tivoli  n  ' 
scend  by  the  remarkable  pass 
La  StiiTptUata,  a  mounlain 
constiucled  in  parts  with  solid  ma- 
tonry.  During  the  descent 
mand  some  fine  views  of  t 
group  of  hills  which  btand  detached 
from  the  Sabine  chain,  and  Ibrm  10 
eoutpicuous  an  object  froin  Eooiei 
On  one  of  their  summits  are  the  p<»- 
turesnue  town  and  feudal  castle  of 
Monticelli;  on  another  are  the  pcdy- 
I  gonal  walls  of  the  ancient  city  ef 
I  Aineriola  j  and  on  tlie  third  is  Ibe 
iliage  of  Sant'  Angela,  DMrkiDgllie 
ite  of  Corniculom  (p.  IT7.).  Til* 
pass  leads  dovn  to  the  hollow  called 


La  Mar. 


itofll 


^Ktbe   cl: 


id  castle  of  Monte    Verde.      Near 

this  are  some  fine  eiamples  of  poly- 
gonal walls  marking  the  site  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Medullla.  Belwe^ 
this  and  HvdII  the  road  passes  Ciata, 
Ihe  supposed  representntive  of  aneiwi 
Cmina,  celebrated  in  Ihe  histoi?  oC 
Romulus  and  the  Sibine  rape  :  some 
fiagmenls  of  its  polygonal  walli  aW 
still  standing.  Farther  on,  we  pass 
some  ruins  of  a  Roman  villa  at  a  ipot 
called  Scaliacani,  opposite  to  n-hid 
are  Ihe  law  hilts  called  ColS  FariMM, 
lietween  them  and  the  roi 
valley,  in  which  we  may  st 
ruins  of  a  temple,  and  a  pedeatal  with 
the  ftjIloTing  inscription :. 


1  name  of  Ibe  temple  is  no  d 
en  in  this  inscription  which  rec 

name  of  an  illustrious  Roiaaa, 
am  the  beautiRil  lines  of  Horace 
e  made  familiar  to  the  scholoi 


Seyond  this 


Pigml  States.^    excursions  from  rome  (FrascaH).  555 


▼alley  of  TivolL  through  the  fine 
groves  of  olive  which  clothe  the  slopes 
of  the  Monte  Quintiliola,  as  far  as  the 
Ponte  deir  Acquoria. 

Frascati,  12  Miles. 

This  excursion  is  generally  per- 
formed in  a  single  day,  but  the  best 
plan  is  to  sleep  at  Frascati  Ibrat  least 
two  nights,  and  combine  a  visit  to  the 
ruins  of  Tusculum,  Grotta  Ferrata, 
and  Marino  with  an  excursion  to 
Monte  Cavi  and  the  site  of  Alba  Longa. 
The  charge  fur  a  carriage  with  two 
horses,  to  go  to  Frascati  and  return 
to  Rome  on  the  same  day,  is  four 
scudi,  exclusive  of  buonamano.  Those 
who  do  not  object  to  travel  in  a  public 
carriage  will  find  one  daily  at  the 
Tre  Re  near  the  Capitol :  the  charge 
is  from  four  to  five  pauls  for  each 
seat.  The  road  leaves  Rome  by  the 
Porta  S.  Giovanni  (p.  302. ) :  for  a 
few  hundred  yards  beyond  the  gate  it 
traverses  the  ancient  Via  Latina.  It 
leaves  the  ancient  road  soon  after 
crossing  the  Maranna,  but  pursues  a 
course  nearly  parallel  to  it  for  about 
half  the  distance  to  Frascati.  About 
3  miles  from  the  gate  we  pass  the  arch 
of  the  Acqua  Felice,  called  the  Porta 
Furba,  constructed  on  the  line  of  the 
Claudian  aqueduct  (p.  366. ).  Near 
it  is  the  lofty  tumulus  called  the  Monte 
del  Grano^  called  without  a  shadow  of 
authority  the  sepulchre  of  Alexander 
Severus.  It  is  an  immense  mound, 
200  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
constructed  of  solid  masonry.  To- 
wards the  end  of  the  16th  century  it 
was  explored  from  the  summit  of  the 
tumulus;  an  entrance  was  made  by 
removing  the  stones  of  the  vaulted 
roof,  and  a  sepulchral  chamber  was 
discovered  containing  the  magnificent 
sarcophagus  of  white  marble  which 
gives  its  name  to  one  of  the  rooms  of 
the  museum  of  the  Capitol,  and  is  de- 
scribed in  our  account  of  that  collec- 
tion (p.  492.).  The  celebrated  Port- 
land Vase,  preserved  in  the  British 
Museum,  was  found  in  this  sarcopha- 
gus. A  short  distance  beyond  the 
tumulus,  on  the  right  hand,  close  to 


the  ancient  Via  Latina,  which  con- 
tinues to  run  parallel  to  the  present 
road,  is  the  casale  of  Boma  Fecchia, 
belonging  to  the  banker  Torlonia.  It 
is  interesting  as  marking,  in  the  opinion 
of  the  modem  antiquaries,  the  site  of 
the  famous  temple  of  Fortuna  Mulie- 
bris,  erected  in  honour  of  the  wife  and 
mother  of  Coriolanus,  who  here  dis* 
suaded  him  from  his  threatened  at- 
tack on  Rome.  The  distance  from 
the  capital  and  the  locality  both  agree 
with  the  accounts  of  Dionysius  and 
Valerius  Maximus,  who  place  it  at 
the  fourth  milestone  on  the  Via  La- 
tina. There  are  no  ruins  of  any  con- 
sequence, although  the  wails  of  the 
casale  are  composed  of  fragments  of 
marble,  and  numerous  remains  of  co- 
lumns, &c.  have  been  found  in  the 
vicinity.  There  is  no  other  spot  to 
which  the  site  of  the  temple  can  with 
so  much  probability  be  assigned,  and 
we  may  therefore  regard  it  as  the 
scene  where  Coriolanus  found  that 
he  was  not  "  of  stronger  earth  than 
others : " 

"  Ladies,  you  deserve 
To  have  a  temple  built  you :  all  the  swords 
In  Italy,  and  her  confederate  arms, 
Could  not  have  made  this  peace." 

About  2  miles  beyond  the  Monte 
del  Grano  is  the  ruin  called  the  Sette 
Bassif  on  the  farm  of  the  Arco  Tra- 
vertino,  which  also  belongs  to  the 
banker  Torlonia.  The  name  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  corruption  of  Septimius 
Bassus  the  consul,  a.d.  317  ;  but  it  is 
more  interesting  as  marking  the  site 
of  an  imperial  villa  of  great  magnifi- 
cence and  extent  The  ruins  now 
visible  are  at  least  4000  feet  in  cir- 
cumference :  their  construction  shows 
two  distinct  periods ;  that  portion  to- 
wards Rome  corresponds  with  the 
style  of  the  Roman  buildings  under 
Hadrian,  while  that  towards  Frascati 
belongs  to  the  time  of  the  Antonines. 
Hie  antiquaries  agree  in  regarding  it 
as  the  suburban  villa  c€  Hadrian  or 
Commodus :  the  Quantity  of  precious 
marbles  discovered  among  the  foun- 
dations attest  the  splendour  of  the 
edifice*,  «ad^lTM^«^w^sfiK0kQ\^v3«^. 


\ 


IXCeilBTOV"  FHOM   ItOMg '{ f^tfrgftfj! 


ocvuriui  fTequmtlj.  'hoi  il  h«i 

H  ihr  nani*  i-'  'hf  "  hrc«c'i»  di 

(w«.-      Ne.r  thu  U  the  Torre 

I   n«,   (he   li«ir.w»y  house,  | 

■m    wi"i    i)i*idM    inlo    iwo 

■  FcmU,  and  that  tu  the  \eti  to  I 
At  (he  foot  of  the  hill  dT 
e  the  founuin  .nil  osleria 
lo,  rctowkiilile  M  Ihc  heid. 
the  Nespolitmi  anny  whicli 
landed  the  new  Roman  republic  un-  ' 
d>r  Maek  in  1798,  and  Mi»©d  the 
apiul  ill  November  of  thai  year. 
Beyuoil  ii>»  point  ■  road  on  the  right 


1§ 


iteremng  towr 

lincncct  of  the  Alban  hills,  with  a 
of  4900  5Oul«.  (Uu:  A 
ew  hotel  is  the  best ;  II.  de 
Ltradns.  Tery  good;  H.  de  Parii; 
Cruee  Bianca,  now  a  lodging-houie. ) 
Fiswali  a  one  of  the  ravotiriie  retorts 
of  tlw  RoiDan  bmilin  during  tbe  tU- 
l^giatura.  and  in  the  aumnier  monlhs 
averj  houie  it  Riled  «>i[h  company. 
Many  English  familiei  who  spend  the 
■UDuner  in  this  part  of  Italy  prefer  it 
Id  e*ery  other  place  in  the  neigLibour- 
bood  of  Rome:  the  ellnute  j^  pure 
and  healthy,  and  the  eicuraions  in  its 
neighbourhood,  if  not  more  beautiful, 
ire  DGcessihlc  than  those  in  the 
:■'  of  Tuoli.  Frascati  arose  in 
llh  tentury  from  the  ruins  of 
I  TuBCuluni,  which  vaa  situ- 
1  the  hills  aboTe  the  town.  The 
.re  built  on  the  ruins  of  a  villa 
AuRUstan  period,  which  U  said 
to  hate  afforded  shelter  to  the  inhabit- 
tnta  after  the  cruel  destruction  of  their 
oity  by  the  Romans  in  1191.  The 
modem  name  is  a  corruption  of  JViu- 
eata,  the  appellation  given  to  the  hill 
■■  early  ai  the  flth  eeutury,  as  a 
■pot  covered  with  tteea  and  buEhcs. 
Tbetown  itself  is  lest  remarkable  than 
'  beautiful  villas  n-hich  surround  it. 
y  of  the  older  houses  retain  vbeii 


architecture  of  the  13th  and  Hthee 
lutiwi  and  the  church  of  S.  Rdccd, 
fbnnerly  the  eathtdnil  of  St.  &" 
rian,  and  still  called  the  Duomo  Vec' 
chio.  is  supposed  to  haye  been  built 
by  the  Orsini,  lords  of  Marinn,  i 
1309-  The  principal  btiilding  of  n 
cent  timci  is  the  Cathtilral.  dedicated 
to  Si.  Peter,  built  by  Carlo  Foi 
in  the  tapa  at  Intioccnt  XII. 
Clement  XI.  It  vas  completed  under 
the  latter  pontiff  In  the  year  of  "' 
Jubilee,  ITOO.  It  contains  a  tablet  to 
Cardinal  York,  who  was  for  mat 
yean  bishop  of  this  diocese,  and  a: 
other  erected  by  the  cardinal  to  h 
brother  Prince  Charles  Edward,  flu 
younj;  Pretender,  who  died  here  Juui- 
ary  31.  ITS8.  The  following  i>  ' 
inseription :  —  Seie  litua  rtt  gartbt 
O^oordn  cm"  Fater  Jacobut  III.,  j 
I  Anffiite,    Satiis^     Franctte,     Uibtnim, 

ffia  dipnitatit  nrceifor  et  hera, 
domiciiio  libi  Hoaus  ddtdo  Conm  Jll- 
kiajWHiii  dictiu  Egt.  Viril  Btonru  6T 
et  rnentrra,  deeestit  I'a  pacB  — .-  PHdi^ 
Kal.  Feb.  Ajino  nnfl.  TbeJJiumio  ~ 
ahin,  built  in  190S,  has  a  canipanila 
built  in  the  Gothic  style  of  the  period. 
Near  it  U  the  old  cu^ih,  now  the  Re 
liaia  VtHovile,  a  building  of  the  IStb 
cenlurv,  restored  by  Pius  VI.  H» 
fountain  near  it  bears  the  date  14B0, 
Cardinal  d'EsloDle- 


d  the 


fille,  the  ambas! 


r  of  i 


^m  file  beauti 

mmayQft 


ofS.  Agos- 

tino  at  Rome,  to  whom  the  foundation 
of  the  castle  is  also  attributed.  The 
church  of  the  Cc-ppaccini,  finely  n 
■ted  above  the  town,  is  remarkable 

these  we  may  notice  the  Holy  Family, 
attributed  to  GiiiiiB  Romano;  the  Sti 
Francis  by  Paul  Brill  i  and  the  CtU- 
oifiiion,  by  Mvtimi.  In  the  s  ' 
is  Gmdo's  sketch  for  his  oele 
picture  of  the  Crucifiiion  i 
church  of  S,  Lorenzo   in  Lucina  at 

ra/Ds.  —  The   villas    of    Frueati, 
which  constitute  its  mojd  remarkable 
liefly  in  the  16tll 


TtEH 


Papai  States."]    excursions  from  rome  {Frascati).  SSI 


VUla  Alddbrandini,  Shortly  before  we 
arrive  at  the  gate  of  this  noble  villa, 
we  pass  on  the  left  hand  the  sn\all 
casino  of  the  Villa  Piccolomini,  re- 
markable as  the*  retreat  in  which  Car- 
dinal Baronius  composed  his  cele- 
brated Annals.  An  inscription  on 
one  side  of  the  building  records  this 
interesting  fact :  —  Ceesar  Card,  Bet- 
ronius,  Anmdibus  Ecclesia  pertexendiSf 
hue  secedere  solitus  locum  monumento 
dipnum  fecit.  The  Villa  Aldobrandini 
was  built  by  Cardinal  Pietro  Aldo- 
brandini,  nephew  of  Clement  VIII., 
after  he  had  succeeded  in  attaching 
the  duchy  of  Ferrara  to  the  States  of 
the  Church.  It  was  designed  by  Gia- 
como  della  Porta,  and  was  the  last 
work  of  that  accomplished  architect 
The  buildings  were  completdd  by 
Giovanni  Fontana,  and  the  water- 
works were  constructed  by  the  same 
artist  and  finished  by  Olivieri  of 
TivolL  From  the  extreme  beauty  of 
its  position,  and  the  extensive  pros- 
pect which  it  commands  over  the 
Campagna,  it  was  long  known  as  the 
Belvedere.  The  villa  subsequently 
passed  by  inheritance  into  the  Pamtili 
family,  and  in  the  last  century  became 
the  property  of  Prince  Borghese,  who 
still  possesses  it.  The  casino,  built 
upon  a  massive  terrace,  is  richly  de- 
corated with  marbles  and  frescoes  by 
Cav.  cTArpino.  The  subjects  of  these 
paintings  are  taken  from  the  Old 
'i'estament,  and  represent  the  death  of 
Sisera,  David  and  Abigail,  the  history 
of  the  Fall,  the  death  of  Goliath,  and 
JuJith.  The  walls  of  the  anterooms 
are  hung  with  maps  of  the  vast  ma- 
norial possessions  of  the  house  of 
Borghese.  Opposite  the  casino  to- 
wards the  hill  is  a  large  hemicycle 
with  two  wings,  and  a  fine  cascade  of 
water.  Near  it  is  a  building  called 
II  Parnasso,  once  remarkable  for  its 
frescoes  by  Domenichino.  It  con- 
tains a  large  relief  of  Parnassus  with 
the  different  divinities,  and  a  Pegasus. 
The  water  is  made  to  turn  an  organ, 
one  of  those  strange  applications  which 
seem  to  have  been  popular  in  the  Ro- 
man villas  of  thb  period.  The  grounds 


of  the  villa  can  hardly  be  surpassed 
in  picturesque  beauty  ;  a  path  leads 
through  them  to  the  Cappuccini  de- 
scribed above,  and  to  the  Villa  Ruffi- 
nella.  —  Villa  Montalto,  or  Braccianot 
now  the  property  of  the  Propaganda, 
built  on  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  villa 
towards  the  close  of  the  16th  century. 
The  casino  is  decorated  with  frescoes 
by  the  scholars  of  Domenichino,  the 
Caracci  and  the  Zuccari.  Near  it  is 
the  Vigna  del  Seminario,  with  the  epis- 
copal seminary  built  and  endowed  by 
Cardinal  York  :  it  stands  on  the  sup- 
posed site  of  the  villa  of  Lucullus.-* 
The  fine  circular  ruin  resembling  the 
tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella,  and  called 
the  sepulchre  of  LucuUus,  is  in  the 
Vigna  Angelotti :  it  is  the  finest  ruin 
at  Frascati,  constructed  with  immense 
blocks  of  stone,  and  about  100  feet  in 
diameter ;  it  contains  three  sepul- 
chral chambers.  Near  it  is  an  exten  • 
sive  building  with  five  divisions  com- 
municating with  each  other,  on  the 
plan  of  the  Sette  Sale  at  Rome. — 
Filla  Ludovisi,  or  Cotih',  latterly  the 
property  of  the  duke  of  Sforza  Cesa- 
rini,  finely  situated  beyond  the  Porta 
S.  Pietro,  and  remarkable  for  its  plan- 
tations and  fountains. —  Villa  Tavema, 
built  by  the  cardinal  of  that  name  in 
the  16th  century,  from  the  designs  of 
Girolarao  Rainaldi.  For  many  years 
it  has  b6en  the  property  of  the  Bor- 
ghese family,  and  was  tlie  favourite 
residence  of  Paul  V.  The  casino  con- 
tains the  tapestries  of  Sergardi.  At- 
tached to  this  villa  is  the  more  exten- 
sive but  deserted  Villa  liondragone^ 
founded  by  Cardinal  Altemps  as  an 
agreeable  surprise  to  Gregory  XIII. 
The  casino,  designed  principally  by 
Vansanzio,  contains  no  less  than  S74 
windows.  The  grand  loggia  of  the 
gardens  was  designed  by  Vignola,  and 
the  portico  by  Flaminio  Ponzio.  The 
fountains  and  water-works  were  con- 
structed by  Giovanni  Fontana. — Villa 
Falconieri,  formerly  the  Ruffina^  the 
oldest  of  all  the  Frascati  villas,  founded 
by  the  bishop  Ruffini  in  1548.  The 
casino,  built  by  Borromini,  is  remark- 
able for  a  ceiling  by  Carlo   MoxolitK 


•nd  an  uteresling 

b)>  Pitr  Lemt  CAasi.  well  known  by 
the  engntingt  of  Oeslcrcicb.  ViEa  , 
JItiffiiirlla,  fiirmeriy  belonging  to  the 
Jeni'rti,  and  Utterly  (o  Lucicn  Buona- 
pane,  fran  vbaA  it  ia  Htnelimo 
eaUedtheTillaorthcPhnreofCanino. 
It  ia  now  the  proprrt;  of  Ihe  king  of 
Sudinia.  The  csuno,  buill  b;  Van- 
Titdli,  a  Hipposed  by  some  antiquariei , 
to  Mawl  on  the  tite  of  tJie  Aeademia  j 
of  CIceto'*  Tilla,  Under  the  portico  . 
■ra  eollecled  numerous  inuriptions 
andotber  fragments  discaTercd  Bmong  ' 
the  tuina  of  Tusculum.  The  littlv 
ebapel  contains  a  monument  erected 
by  Lueien  Buonaparte  to  his  fallicr, 
in  vrbooe  bust  many  have  recognised 
a     likeness    to     Napoleon ;    another 

prince;  and  a  thinl  to  bis  cldeM  son.  ; 
Jd  ooe  put  of  the  grounds  i«  a  hill . 
called  PanuBu^  arranged  by  Lueien 
Buonaparte.  On  the  il->pes  ue 
planted  in  box  the  names  of  celebrated  , 

The  conceit  and  Ihe  atnuigemcnt  are 
trulj  French  :  the  li&t  comprises  fifty-  ' 
fln  names,  beninninj;  with  Aiiosto, , 
Voltaire,  and  Sophocles,  and  ending 
vith  Malbeibe,  Lopei  de  la  Vega,  ', 
Klopttock,  and  Mirini.  The  (allow.  ' 
ing  are  the  Sit  Gogliibmen  admitted 
4o  Ihe  hoooura  of  this  Parnassus,  in 
the  order  in  irhicb  tbe occur:  —  Pope, 
Milton,  Shakipeare,  Addison,  and 
Dryden.  lo  November,  ISIS,  the 
Villa  Huffinclla  obtained  a  disagrre- 
ahle  notoriety  from  a  daring  attack  of 
banditti,  who  obtained  admission  while 

laaebe  the  daughter  of  l.ucivn  Buona- ' 
parte,  who  was  on  ibe  point  of  being 
miiried  lo  Prince  Eicolani  of  Bo- 
logna. The  family  made  their  escape, 
but  the  biigindt  tciied  the  it-crelary 


ROME  {Tuseulum),         [Sect-L 

I  Tel^oniu,  the  ion  at  CTjmm  mA 
Circe,  occupy   the  rmt    of  lh«  '" 

I  abore  the  ViiU  Raffindla.      TUi 
farm*  ■  portion  of  the  lip  of  tkcio 
or  more  ancient  ct«t('t  of  MoUC 
bano,  viuse  fbnn  niay  be  Dseed  A- 
tinctly  round  Uw  nDrthenn  aad  i 
flduks  of  Monle  Caii.      The  p> 
of  Tutculutn,   (ortiSed    by    I> 
walls  of  great  solidity,  was  in  Niiwi. 
as  to  resist  the  attacka  of  Hl—jhj 
and  the  Romam  set  so  bi^ 
on  its  alliance  that  they  adm 
iuhabiianis  to  IhepriTilegcsof  BoBaa 
eillivna.      It  afterward^  becajae  aon 
memorable   as  the  KeDe  of  OeoiA 
Tuteulan    DiH>ulations,    and    as  A* 
binliplacc  of  Cala     It  U  knovn  fiaa 
historical  evidence  tbai  the  «ty  ni 
entile  at  the  close  of  the   19i' 
tury,  when  it  embraced  Ihe  Ii 

a  gallant  struggle   iri.h    Itiai 

lie?,  on  the  march  of  Fndeticfc  L 

into   the   I'apd 

attacked   Tuscu 

the   p°P^-      Count    Itainone  of  tvt- 

culum  was  assisted  by  ifae  friiitiiBw 

troops  under    llaynjjdus   arefabolHf 


otr  to  the  hills 


t     IhcK 

t  Velleiri,  from 


the    prince    paid   a  lantoio   of  6000 

Twk(»m.  —The  ruins  of  thii  celc- 
bnted  city  of  ancient  Latium,  wViok 
„  fyaoda^oa  it  ascribed  by  the  poete 


ilogne,  and  Chi 
of  Ucnta  :  a  general 
place  in  the  plain  bei 
30.  1167,  in  which  the  RoniBD 
30,000  strong,  were  nlKriy 
thrown.  The  staugbler  wwiou 
the  Romans  are  slated  Lo  haT«  Ul 
3000  dead  upon  the  field.  " 
lelli  says  that  Rome  was  d 
wards  either  rich  or 
the  contemponiiy  histoi 
the  ■ceonnis  of  the  cuiugc  by 
the  battle  the  Caiinn  of  the  mtddk 
nges.      Tbe  battle  lasted  fr 

morning  until  evening;    i 

neit  day,  when  the  Rumana  canM  oat 
to  bury  their  dead,  the  Count  of  TW- 
cidum  and  the  Anhbishop  of  ~~ 
turroiinclcd  them,  and  refused  ti 
the  privilege  of  burial  tmpi  un  ibe 
humiliatiug  condition  that  they  absuld 
count  the  number  of  the  alaio.  In 
iluTMbllowing  year  the  Hotaani  agua 
attacked  the  city,  and  the  inhnbiii*. 


Papal  States,']    excursions  from  ro^e  (Tusculum),        559 


ditionally  surrendered  to  the  pope 
(Alexander  III.)<  The  cause  of  the 
pope  was  not  then  the  cause  of  the 
Roman  people,  and  the  surrender  of 
Tusculura  to  the  Church  was  regarded 
as  an  act  of  hostility  by  Rome,  whose 
vengeance  was  deferred  but  not  extin- 
guished. Tlie  pope  however  repaired 
to  Tusculum,  which  became  for  many 
years  his  favourite  residence.  It  was 
here,  in  1178,  that  he  received  the 
ambassadors  sent  by  Henry  II.  of 
England  to  assert  his  innocence  of  the 
death  of  Thomas-a- Becket.  Alex- 
ander  died  in  1181,  and  Tusculum 
again  became  an  imperial  city.  Tne 
Romans  renewed  their  attacks,  and  in 
1191  obtained  possession  of  the  citadel 
by  the  cession  of  Celestin  III.,  and 
put  the  inhabitants  to  the  sword. 
They  razed  the  houses  to  their  foun- 
dations, destroyed  the  fortifications, 
and  reduced  the  city  to  such  a  state  of 
desolation  that  it  was  impossible  to 
recover  from  its  effects.  No  attempt 
was  ever  made  to  restore  the  city  on 
its  ancient  site,  and  Frascati,  as  we 
have  already  stated,  rose  from  its 
ruins  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  hill. 
A  visit  to  the  ruins,  though  much 
evidently  remains  buried,  is  highly 
interesting ;  and  the  view  alone  is  an 
inducement  which  even  in  this  district 
of  beautiful  scenery  amply  repays  the 
trouble  of  the  ascent,  llie  first  ob- 
ject on  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  the 
Amphitheatre,  of  reticulated  work, 
225  feet  long  and  166^  broad:  the 
style  does  not  show  an  antiquity  cor- 
responding to  the  other  ruins,  and  it 
is  regarded  as  the  most  recent  build- 
ing of  Tusculum  yet  discovered. 
Near  it,  along  a  ridge  of  rocks  com- 
manding a  fine  panoramic  view  over 
the  Campagna,  including  Rome  and 
the  sea  beyond  Ostia,  are  the  ruins  of 
a  long  corridor  and  ten  chambers, 
called  the  Scuola  di  Cicerone,  They 
formed,  apparently,  the  ground  floor 
of  an  extensive  building;  and  are  re- 
garded, with  great  probability,  as  the 
granaries  of  Cicero's  villa.  Near  this 
we  find  the  ancient  pavement  formed 
of  polygonal  masses  of  lava,  some  re- 


mains of  baths,  and  the  ground  floor 
of  a  house  with  the  atrium  and  cistern. 
Proceeding  along  the  ancient  pave- 
ment we  arrive  at  the  theatre  and  the 
city  walls,  excavated  by  Lucien  Buona- 
parte. The  theatre  is  small,  but  its 
seats  are  tolerably  perfect,  and  the 
plan  and  measurements  can  be  ascer- 
tained without  much  difiSculty.  The 
citadel  beyond  this  is  extremely  inter- 
esting :  the  position  of  the  four  gates 
may  be  traced,  and  the  view  over  the 
Campagna  and  the  Alban  hills  is 
beautiful  J^eyond  dcscriptiotf.  On  the 
north  we  see  Monte  Porzio,  Monte 
Compatri,  and  Colonna,  the  ancient 
Labicum  :  towards  the  east  we  recog- 
nise in  succession,  along  the  lip  of  the 
crater,  Rocca  Priore,  Monte  Fiore 
and  Cavi :  on  the  south  are  Monte 
Pila,  Monte  Cavi,  Rocca  di  Papa,  the 
Camp  of  Hannibal,  Marino,  and  the 
ridge  of  Alba  Longa,  bounding  the 
lake  of  Albano.  At  the  base  of  the 
hill  runs  the  ancient  Via  Latina,  in  a 
direct  line  from  near  Grotta  Ferrata 
to  Cavi :  part  of  it  has  been  recently 
restored  by  Prince  Borghese,  and  we 
believe  it  will  not  be  long  before  it  is 
carried  into  the  central  road  to  Naples, 
below  Segni.  It  traverses  the  pro- 
perty of  Prince  Borghese,  who  has 
established  on  the  spot  a  colony  of 
Tuscan  agriculturists,  and  has  now  a 
large  estate  of  beautiful  and  flourish- 
ing country,  which  a  few  years  ago 
was  a  barren  wilderness.  Below  the 
northern  wall  is  another  street  paved 
with  large  polygonal  blocks,  where  we 
may  examine  a  fountain  with  three 
troughs,  supplied  by  a  leaden  pipe,  of 
which  some  remains  were  lately  visible. 
On  the  front  of  the  fountain  is  an  in- 
scription recording  its  construction  by 
Q.  Caelius  Latin  us  and  Marcus  De- 
cumus,  at  the  command  of  the  senate. 
Close  to  it  is  a  singular  chamber,  ap- 
parently a  subterranean  reservoir. 
The  roof  has  a  pointed  arch  like  the 
gate  of  entrance  at  Arpino  described  in 
the  Handbook  for  Southern  Italy,  This 
arch  is  not,  as  some  writers  have  ima- 
gined, constructed  on  the  well-known 
principle  of  a  Gothic  arch^  but  is  com.* 


1    of  nine    horiiontal 
t  length,  Uid  w  •«  lo  ■pproneh  ■ 

_..  I  puinlcd  form.  The  wolcr  ir«s 
brought  into  the  chamber  by  a  xquarc  i 
ooDduit,  whose  ipe«u>  is  5)  fett  higb  | 
■nd  3  rwl  broad.  Further  on  arc  tbe  | 
fimndaliotu  of  one  o(  tin  citv  gatefi, 
)gn»  Gae  eumplcs  of  PeliuiRi'e  w.lli. 
the  mnunt  of  another  theatre,  and  a  ' 
large  piscina  divided  into  foot  rham- 
ben  bj  pilasters  arranged  in  three  ^ 
nnra  of  Sfe  each.  In  reluming  loi 
Prawali,  tiavellcn  ihould  visit  the 
Ctmaldp/i,  one  of  the  finest  monat- 
leries  of  the  order  in  luly,  and  cer-  [ 
uinl*  one  of  the  mmi  bcoutifiill}' ' 
placed.  II  is  remarkable  ai  Ihe  re-  [ 
tteal  oT  the  celebrated  Cardinal  Pas-  ' 
iionei,  vbo  biiill  himself  mine  cells  i 
on  the  plan  of  those  occupied  by  the 
monkt,  decorated  their  walls  with  fine 
engraTings,andcon>erled  Ismail  spot 
of  ground  adjoining  into  a  luctly 
gntilen,  which  he  cultivated  with  great  i 
He  collected  in  his  garden  no 
EineOO  inMriptioni  found  among 
lina  of  Tuseulum,  and  indulged 
la  classical  tastes  bj  the  addition  of 
ptduable  library.      One  of  hb  fre- 

Velcnder,  James  IH.  of  England ; 
741  he  was  honoured  by  a 
il  ftom  Pope  Benedict  XIV.  ' 

GaoiTA  FiaajTA,  I 

miles  from    Frascnti,  in  the 
I   of  Altwno.       Tlie    toad   is , 
■itifijlt  passing  through  the  lii 


.icror  Othom..« 

Iisli,  below  Naples,  were  n*>cal  Vj 
the  incursions  of  iheSicilionSarareaa. 
the  1  SIh  century  it  was  gim  by 


dinal ; 


»  IV., 


first    ordin^-abbM 
whom  he  appmnted  w» 
nephew  Giuliano  dclla  Roietr.  a 
wards  Julius  II.      This  warUkv 


cried    i 


strengthening 
rounding  the  whole  btiildiug  with  a 
dileh.  His  armorial  bearings  snaj  ba 
seen  on  numerous  {larts  of  tbe  easd4 
and  eren  in  the  capitals  of  tW  c»- 
lumnt  in  the  palace  ofthe  abboc  Tli* 
church  was  rebuilt  in  1754  by  CafA- 
nal  Guadagni,  abbot  ofthe  taoamsutj. 


t  remarkable  far   the  taa- 


of  Cni 


kable 


and  pli 
The  Tillage  conUins  only  6 
■nd  is  a  mere  dependency  of  the  ira- 
nmsc  castellated  monastery  of  S 
Basilia  This  celebrated  etiablish- 
ment  of  Batilian  monks  is  Ihe  only 
one  of  the  order  in  tlie  Papal  Stales. 
The  tradition  tells  us  that  il  derive* 
its  name  from  an  ancient  grotto  closed 
with  an  iron  grating,  in  which  Ihe 
miraculous  image  of  the  Virgin,  now 
in  the  churrh  of  the  monastery,  was 
finnerl/  preserved.  It  was  founded 
^atbt  beginu'mg  of  tta«  ttKh  Mabn) 


baie  belonp'd  to  the  oti^iul  TrTtt* 
lery  of  Sl  Nilus.  Tlie  punioa  vUA 
forms  the  archilrare  appeals  M  b* 
part  of  an  ancirnl  aarcophagns,  aa 
imperial  work,  of  the  time,  prateUy, 
of  Septimius  Severus.  The  daoraf 
the  church  belonged  also  to  tlK  «M 
building  ei«cted  in  the  1 1  ih  eeoun. 
'n>c  Creek  inscription  on  the  «■!&• 
trave,  eihortiog  all  who  enter  to  pwl 
off  impurity  of  thought,  is  ctidcMlj 
as  early  as  this  period.  In  the  is- 
terior.  on  Ihe  vault  of  tbe  bigli  tlu»t 

tcriplion.  containing  the  Dame  of  A* 
first  twelve  tiyniiuw,  nr  abbots,  fi«« 
Ihe  foundation  of  St.  Nilus:  ihr  4aM 

from  Ihe  creation  of  the  wotM,  Ac 
year  6S13  being  given  fiira.n.  lOM* 
in  which  St.  Nilus  died.  AooAk  . 
inleresting  monument  of  the  mtdAt 
ages  is  the  sepulchral  stone  in  thdefl 
■i^le,  will,  an  eagle  in  mosaict  *e 
armorial  bearings  of  tbe  caunls  at 
Tuseulum.  It  is  said  by  tradition  to 
have  belonged  to  the  tomb  of  Bene- 
dict IX.,  wlio  was  n  memhci  of  tbi* 
Gnnil;.  The  Okqit/  dedicated  to  St. 
\MU«»B*ai.-     -  -  -    _      — 


Papal  States.2     excursions  from  rome  (Marino). 


561 


bots  of  this  monastery,  is  celebrated 
for  its  frescoes  by  Domenichi no.     He 
was  employed  by  Odoardo   Farnese, 
while  cardinal-abbot,    to   decorate  it 
with   his  pencil,  at  the  particular  re- 
commendation  of  his  master  Annibale 
Caracci.      He  was  then  in  his  twenty- 
ninth  year,  as  we  learn  from  the  date 
1610,  which  may  be  observed  on  the 
ceiling.     These  fine  works  have  gene- 
rally been  classed  among  the  master- 
pieces of  Domenichino :  they  repre- 
sent the  acts  and  miracles  of  St  Nilus 
and    St.    Bartholomew.       Beginning 
from  the  left  of  the  altar,  the  subjects 
occur   in    the     following    order :  — 
I.    The  demoniac  boy  cured  by  the 
prayers  of  St.  Nilus  with  oil  taken  by 
St.  Bartholomew  from  the  lamp  of  the 
JVIadonna.     In  the  lunette  is  the  death 
of    St.    Nilus,    surrounded    by    the 
monks.     2.  Tlie  Virgin  in  glory,  sur- 
rounded by  angels,  giving  a  golden 
apple   to   the   two   saints.       S.    The 
meeting  of  St.  Nilus  and  the  Emperor 
Otho  HI.,  one  of  the  best  composed 
and  most  powerful  paintings  of  the 
series:  the  trumpeters  are  justly  re- 
garded as   a   prodigy  of  expression. 
The   figure  in  green  holding  the  em- 
peror*s  horse  is  Domenichino  himself, 
the   figure   leaning   on    the   horse  is 
Guido,  and   the   one  behind  him  is 
Guercino ;    the  courtier   in  a   green 
dress  dismounting  from  his  horse  is 
Giambattista  Agucchi,  one  of  Dome- 
nichino's   early    patrons;    the   youth 
with  a  blue  cap  and  white  plume,  re- 
treating before  the  prancing  horse,  is 
the  young  girl  of  PVascati  whom  Do- 
menichino loved,  but  was  unable  to 
obtain    from   her   parents.      4.    Tlie 
miracle   of  the   saint   sustaining   the 
falling    column   during     the    build- 
ing of  the  monastery  :    remarkable 
for  its  perspective  and  for  the  great 
number     of     episo<le8     introduced. 
5.  St.   Nilus  praying   for  protection 
from   a  storm   which    threatens   the 
harvest     6.  The  saint  praying  before 
the  crucifix.     7.   The  Annunciation. 
These  interesting  frescoes,  which  bad 
suflTered  greatly  from  damp  and  neg- 
lect,  were  elemned  and  cleverly  re- 


stored in  1819  by  Camuccini,  at  the 
cost  of  Cardinal  Consalvi,  who  died 
abbot  of  the  monastery.  This  en- 
lightened statesman  at  the  same  time 
placed  in  the  church  the  marble  bust 
of  Domenichino  executed  by  Signora 
Teresa  Benincampi,  a  favourite  pupil 
of  Canova.  The  altarpiece,  an  oil 
painting  representing  the  two  saints 
praying  to  the  Virgin,  is  by  Annibale 
Caracci,  The  service  of  this  church 
is  always  performed  in  the  Greek  lan- 
guage and  according  to  the  Greek 
ritual.  The  principal  Greek  MSS. 
of  the  conventual  library  were  re- 
moved a  few  years  since  to  the  library 
of  the  Vatican  (p.  48S.).  The  Palace 
of  the  Abbot,  remarkable  for  its  fine 
architecture,  contains  some  interesting 
fragments  of  ancient  sculpture  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  monastery 
among  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  villa, 
long  supposed  to  be  that  of  Cicero. 
In  one  of  the  rooms  is  a  monument 
to  the  memory  of  Cardinal  Consalvi, 
who  died  in  the  palace.  The  cir- 
cumstances attending  his  death  are 
still  involved  in  painful  mystery,  and 
the  few  facts  which  have  come  to  light 
confirm  the  popular  impression  that 
he  was  carried  off  by  poison.  Tra- 
vellers should  attend  the  Fair  here  on 
the  25th  March,  to  see  the  various  cos- 
tumes and  observe  the  national  habits. 

Marino, 

about  2  miles  from  Grotta  Ferrata, 
prettily  situated  on  an  insulated  hill 
at  the  foot  of  Monte  Cavi.  It  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  ancient  Castri- 
mcenium,  mentioned  by  Pliny,  and 
contains  a  population  of  5000  souls. 
It  is  interesting  in  the  history  of  the 
middle  ages  as  the  stronghold  of  the 
Orsini  family,  who  first  appear  in  the 
13th  century  in  connexion  with  their 
castle  of  Marino.  In  1S47  it  was 
attacked  by  Rienzi  and  gallantly  de- 
fended by  Giordano  Orsini,  whom 
the  tribune  had  just  expelled  from 
Rome.  In  the  following  century 
Marino  became  the  property  of  the 
Colonna  family,  who  have  retained  it 
•Imoil  uiuik\)vmi.\^ft^^  \o  ^«  \ft«hasciX 


EXCUBSiOKs  FROM  noMK  (^ASia  LoMgay,       ^SecLL 

II  iTH  the  reaidaKc  of  Martin  |  the  dealb  oT  Tunis  HtrifawJiMi  Art 
424.  During  ihe  cwit«li  of  |  u  vhieh  the  drputica  irriiri  on  w* 
«  (.oitiniia  ■gaJniI  EufRniui  IV.  it  viih  Rome  to  mtore  th«  TW^ate 
wiutiMii^EvdanilcapIuredby  Giiiliuio  to  Ihc  throne  i  that  hdd  d»k^  tkt 
Iticci.  uchb'nliop  of  I>U>,'  the  com-  siege  of  FideiiK ;  ntd  UiM  vliicb  pv 
inander  of  the  pspel  Inwpi.  Tbe  ceded  the  bcttle  aftbe  Lake  Repttn. 
Colono",  hoirever,  recuieced  the  The  mow  interesliiig  &et  tvoaectol 
tovn,  and  igun  lorlilied  it  agiirut  iriih  thse  nwctingi  is  Ual  iLCOifcJ 
fSitui  IV.  ID  11E0,  b;  erectine  tbe ,  \ij  LiiT  to  hJi  im  book,  docriliilW 
Mrong  wall*  and  toven  which  still ,  the  death  of  Tunnu  HerdoaiiM,  II* 
niTound  the  tovn,  and  add  M  much  chieftain  of  Aricia.  H«  t»jt  Ihtf 
to  it*  pietuieique  beauty.  Fiom  the  Taiquinios  Supeibushw)  coonnedM 
aiiuatiod  of  SJatiao,  oil  a  hill  high  |  nsemblT  of  the  chiefs  at  ^rfaenk, 
■bore  the  plain,  the  cIlBUte  iI  parti-  ,  but  did  not  airire  himaelf  tift  «*<•' 
cularlj  health;,  and  during  the  lUin-  i»g,  vhen  Tiunui.  who  hkd  ofttij 
mer  il  ii  frequented  by  nuincroui  ,  eipicBed  hii  anger  at  Ibc  mghi-t, 
funiliQ  from  Rome,  who  are  attracted  indignautlj  quilted  tbe  meeting  T«* 
by  the  cool  pure  air  and  by  the  ihidy  '  quin,  to  fCTenge  htnHflf  for  tfas  f*o- 
walks  in  the  neighbourhoiKl.  Before  I  eeeding.  hired  a  iU?e  ta  eoBccal  ar^ 
tbe  rotonlion  of  the  Via  AppU  by  in  the  tent  of  Tumui,  and  lh*sw- 
"■■       '  s   high    pott-road  from    cawd  him  of  a  coiapifmcy 


Rome  to  Tettaeiiia  paueJ  through  it. 

Date  bii  colleagues.      "Tlie  aim  w«fe 

and  il    vai   ofLcn   made   one  of  the 

of  ooune  diwiiered.  and  Tuniut  aaa 

thrown   into   the   fountain,    -i^hi 

long  itreet  called  the  Corso,  the  pi«« 

aqus  Feientime,"  where  hews  k(ft 

of    the    Duomo,    and    llie    fauntain. 

down  by  a  grating  and  by  Urge  sMoe* 

would   do   credit  to  many  to-rn»  of 

until  he  v»  drowned.      Hi*  dcnn- 

lion  of  Li-y,  if  wrilleo  to  rmtd  m 

erent  of  our  own  time,  could  M  f~ 

ply  mo™  aceutatel,  .0  tb.  gn-fd. 

GiKrciiu.    aeriously    injured    by-   re- 

The  traveller  may  trace  tbe  itrcBB  la 

louehing  1  and  ai»lher,   of  St.    Bar- 

tbe  '•  caput  aqus,"  wh'>-h  be  will  fad 

oabaa,  by  one  of  Gu.-Krino'i  wholan. 

riung  in  a  dear  Tolume  .1  <h.  bMe  .f 

The  lAiinh  of  the  TVi.itd  on  (hel^ 

of  tbe    Cono,    has   >    picture  of  the 

tbe  depth  of  the  pool  serai  u  Imw 

Trinity,  by  Guld,,.     In  the   ,U«l«u 

undergone   00  change,  and  U  warfj 

AUA  Lose 


%  the  Sl  Ench,  by  iV   be 

At  the  loal  of  the  hill  of  Marioo.  j  rates  without 
lying  between  it  and  the  ridge  of  1  they  adopted. 
Alba  Longa.  ii  a  deep  gt«i  beauti- 
Ailly  wooded,  called  the  Purra  di 
CUoms.  Tbil  valley  ii  highly  jnlc- 
reMisg  to  the  cla»i«l  tourist  as  the 
ule  <rf  the  Aqua  Fcrenlina,  memor- 
■Me  a*  the  spot  on  which  the  I^tln  '  margin  of  the  lake  of  Albano.  al- 
tribes  held  their  gen  ml  ■■scmblies,  1  though  tbe  ground  wh  far  loo  linuHrf 
from  the  destruction  of  Alba  to  Ihe  to  he  reconciled  with  the 
cotHuUI>iporp.DeeiusMus,>.c.33S.  ofLivy  and  Dionysiui.  Tbeivamfc- 
Many  councils  of  the   confederation    ableeiprewionofthcro 

inenliooed  by  Dionyuus  and  Uvy :  .  Ljmsa  Alia  appiBata,' 
jiriong  these  are  tbe  asaeniUici  av  \uv<  k^v^ScA  Vo  i^oie  \ib 
^4icfir»rqiiiniu5SHpCT\niscomp=i«ei'  ^ '"laiia.',  •aiSa'K'-Snasa 


Papal  States."]    sxcuRSiOKs  from  rome  {Alba  Ix>nga),     563 


lieving  that  the  older  antiquaries  had 
not  personally  investigated  the  loca- 
lity, undertook  the  examination  of  the 
ground  for  the  purpose  of  deciding 
this  doubtful  point  of  classical  topo- 
graphy. The  discovery  of  the  true 
site  of  Alba  Longa  is  entirely  due  to 
our  learned  countryman.  He  found 
that  it  was  situated  on  the  ridge  above 
Marino  stretching  along  the  north- 
eastern margin  of  the  lake.  A  very 
beautiful  path  leads  us  from  Marino 
to  the  base  of  Monte  Cuccu,  about 
half  a  mile  north  of  Castel  Gandolfo, 
near  the  spot  where  the  Romans  made 
the  deep  artificial  cutting  to  carry  the 
waters  of  the  lake  into  the  Rivus  Al- 
Imnus  before  the  construction  of  the 
Emissary.  Here  we  begin  to  meet 
with  the  ancient  road  discovered  by 
Sir  William  Gell,  who  traced  it  from 
near  the  ruins  of  Bovillae  on  the  high 
post-road  to  Albano.  He  found  its 
course  marked  by  a  line  of  ruined 
tombs,  and  traced  it  across  the  dry 
bed  of  the  Rivus  Albanus.  The 
rocks  in  many  places  have  been  cut  to 
assist  the  passage  of  the  road,  which 
may  be  traced  along  the  edge  of  the 
precipice  which  borders  the  lake  on 
this  side.  The  accumulation  of  un- 
derwood in  many  places  conceals  the 
road,  but  wherever  we  can  obtain  ac- 
cess to  it,  the  marks  of  wheels  are 
generally  visible.  At  the  point  where 
the  road  terminates  are  massive  walls 
composed  of  immense  rectangular 
blocks  of  peperino,  which  may  be 
traced  for  a  considerable  distance  along 
the  ridge  towards  Palazzola.  This 
ridge,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the 
precipices  of  the  lake,  and  on  the.other 
by  the  valley  of  the  Aqua  Ferentina, 
will  explain  to  any  one  who  will  take 
the  trouble  to  examine  the  ground, 
how  appropriately  a  city  so  built  was 
designated  by  the  term  longa.  There 
is  room  only  for  a  single  street,  whose 
length,  so  far  as  the  ruins  enable  us 
to  ascertain  it,  cannot  have  been  less 
than  one  mile.  It  is  not  improbable 
that  Palasaola  was  one  of  the  citadels 
which  defended  the  town  at  the  south- 
eastern   eitreroity:     Niebubr's  idea 


that  Rocca  di  Papa  was  the  chief 
citadel  of  Alba,  and  that  Monte  Cavi 
was  its  Capitoline  hill,  appears  quite 
irreconcilable  with  the  localities.  The 
road  leading  from  the  ruins  to  the  plain 
across  the  Rivus  Albanus  was  sup- 
posed by  Sir  W.  Gell  to  be  the  line 
of  communication  between  Alba  and 
Lavinium,  whose  site  may  easily  be 
recognised  by  the  high  tower  of  Pra- 
ticaf  the  modern  representative  of  that 
famous  Trojan  city.  Professor  Nibby, 
who  subsequently  verified  the  obser- 
vations of  Sir  W.  Gell,  coincides 
entirely  in  his  conclusions,  and  very 
justly  commends  the  patience  and  abi- 
lity with  which  he  examined  the  lo- 
calities, lliere  are  few  spots  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Rome  which  the 
poetry  of  Virgil  has  made  so  familiar 
to  the  scholar  as  Alba  Longa : 

'*  Signa  tibi  dicam  :  tu  condita  mente  teneto. 
Quum  tibi  sollicito  secreti  ad  fluminis  uii- 

dam, 
Litoreis  ingens  inventa  sub  ilicibut  sua 
Triginta  capitum  foetus  enixa  jacebit, 
Alba,  &0I0  recubans,  albi  circum  ubera  nati. 
Is  locus  urbis  erit;  requiet  ea  certa  la- 

borum."  JEn.,  Ui.  S85. 

It  is  unnecessary  in  this  place  to 
examine  the  arguments  by  which 
Niebuhr  has  established  the  mythic 
character  of  the  early  history  of  Rome. 
By  separating  history  from  poetic  fa- 
ble, the  great  historian  by  no  means 
questions  the  existence  of  the  ancient 
cities  which  figure  so  conspicuously 
in  the  legends  of  the  poets.  No  one 
who  has  explored  the  country,  and 
has  examined  the  gigantic  ruins  still 
standing  on  the  spots  described  by 
the  Roman  writers,  can  regard  their 
existence  as  a  romance ;  and  the  fact 
that  the  poets  have  associated  them 
with  the  events  of  their  legendary  his- 
tory, must  at  least  be  received  as  a 
proof  of  their  high  antiquity.  There 
can  hardly  be  a  doubt  that  Alba  was 
a  powerful  city  long  anterior  to  the 
foundation  of  Rome:  Niebuhr  con- 
siders that  it  was  the  centre  of  a  con- 
federation, distinct  from  that  of  the 
Latins,  but  in  alliance  with  it.  The 
Roman  writers  state  that  Alba  waa 
destroyed  b^  T^^^a  1\<qii!CKv&:^  V>^ 


EXCDRSIOKS  mOM 


It  thai  pvrioil,  and  bclicm  thai 
5  wa«  linl  H-Itcd  liy  the  Lalii 
rntiuD.  All  the  auihoriiiea 
FT,  agree  tliat  aflcr  ilio  ruin  o 

i  Mtlltd  on  the  Ollan  h'llL  Ii 
e  Jullau  and  otlier  il 
iei  traced  Iheir  deuen 
n  thcH  Alban  colonUti. 
am  Alba  llie  traicllm  nuy  vi>i 
1  Gandoiro  and  detcend  to  tin 
e  of  Albanu,  for  the  purpoie  o 
'   Mamining  the  ■ 


he  may  proceed  als 
tlwIakeloFalaiioli 


^■Albai 


ng  the  margin  of 

I,  and  fram  tlier 

111  Moni«  CmL 


frlooking  the  lake 
Albano.  and  commanding  licaulil 
v'unri  of  Castel  Gandolfo  and  the  n 
rounding  couatry.      The   garden  of 


upon  good  grounds  to  be 

the    period  of  the  second 

r.     It  vaa  6nt  discovered  ii 

fajp    Fitis  IT.   (^oeai    Sflvlm^ 


1U.IU  15! 


interior.  The  etyle 
or  the  monument  cloiely  rescmblci 
that  (deserved  in  the  Etriiseait  a^ul- 
chres — a  bet  which  bespisks  iti  high 
antiquity,  independently  of  the  con- 
sular fasces  and  the  insignia  of  the 
liondfei  sculptured  on  the  rock.  Pro- 
fessor Nibliy  considers  it  the  tomb  of 
Cueiui  Cornelius  Scipio,  who  is  the 
only  person  recorded  in  the  Fasti  Con- 
■utaies  as  having  died  while  holding 


ROME  (Pajatzota).       '^Seti 

monadcry  are  Ihe  remains  of  eitetisiie 
I  artificial  caverns,  suppofcd  t 

NyinphiEum  of  Koman  times. 

Iflh  century  Ihey  were  much 

during  suuimer  as  a  picturesque  le- 
'  treat,  hut  Ihe  rock  is  so  fragile,  Ih  ' 
\  large  quanlllia  have  fiillen  in  recei 

yean,  and  part  of  the  roof  luu  ei 
'  tirtly  diaappenreri. 

ItOCU    DI     Pa  PA. 

Prom  whatever  side  we  approicb 
.this  picturesque  mountain- village, 
whether  from  the  valley  of  GrotU 
Ferrata  and  Marina,  or  through  tt 
magnificent  woods  of  Palaizola,  il 
scarcely  possible  to  convey  any  i& 
of  the  scenery  irhlch  presents  itsdf  il 
each  turn  of  the  rond.  Rocca  di  Papa 
occupies  the  site  of  the  Latin  cilj  of. 
Fabia,  mentioned  by  Pliuy  as  eiiit' 
ing  in  his  time,  and  is  generally  sup- 
piised  to  mark  the  poaiion  of  the  An 
Albana  of  Livy,  to  vhich  the  Gauli 
were  repulsed  in  their  atUck  on  ItonK. 
Many  BUtiquaric 

name  a  corruption  of  the  ancient  Fl- 
hia,  while  others  derive  it  from  the 
Giet  that  it  was  one  of  the  strong- 
holds  of  the  popes  as  early  as  the  IZth 
century.  It  i»  a  long  straggling  vf 
luge  of  2100  souls,  built  on  a  slee 
rock  on  the  edge  of  the  mast  aneiei 
cTBtcc  of  the  Albsn  mount.  It 
first  mentioned  under  its  Ku>dei 
name  la  the  chronicle  of  Fosmnuon. 
in  JUutatori's  great  coUectiou,  vbcie 
it  is  staled  that  Hie  pope.  I^uiuus  III. 
( 1 1 8 1 ),  sent  the  Count  Bcrtoldo,  die 
Imperial  ileulenanl,  la  defend  TuKU- 
lum  against  the  Romans,  and  to  re- 
capture Rocra  di  Papa.  In  the  IStfa 
century  il  became,  like  Marino,  a 
'  "  p  of  the  Orsini  family,  w" 
until  the  pontificate  of  Marl 
'  wlien   il  passed  into 


11        by  Lf 

^mp    'Ik 


by  Livy  as  hat 
iplexx  "■'!''« 
the  Alban 


ng  been  seiied  wilh 
visiting  the  temph 
mount,      Ncai    the 


family  o 


e  Coloi 


who  .till  u 


■.wo  fbllowing. 
was  the  stronghold  of  the 
!!Iolonne,  and  vai  frequently  bended 
nd  captured  in  Ihe  wars  of  the  Ro- 
nan  barons.  In  14S3  it  was  captured 
by  the  duke  of  Calabria  ;  in  1484,  by 
(lie  Oisirii-,  Kni  "wi  \SST,  during  the 


Papal  Siates.']    excursions  from  rome  (Monte  Cavi).    565 


contests  between  the  Caraffeschi  and 
the  duke  of  Alba,  it  was  besieged  by 
the  people  of  Velletri,  and  compelled' 
by  famine  to  surrender.  On  the  ex- 
treme  point  of  the  rock  some  ruins  of 
the  ancient  citadel  may  still  be  seen. 
From  this  village  we  ascend  to  Monte 
Cavi,  through  chestnut  forests  of  great 
luxuriance  and  beauty. 

Monte  Cavi. 

Immediately  above  the  village  of 
Rocca  di  Papa  is  the  semicircular 
plain  called  the  Campo  di  AnnibaUj 
from  a  tradition  that  it  was  occupied 
by  Hannibal  in  his  march  against 
Tusculum  and  Rome.  It  is  more 
probable  that  it  was  the  position  of 
the  Roman  garrison  which,  Livy  tells 
us  was  placed  here  to  command  the 
Appian  and  the  Latin  Ways.  The 
outline  of  the  crater  may  be  distinctly 
traced  during  the  ascent:  the  side 
nearest  Rome  has  disappeared,  but 
Rocca  di  Papa  probably  occupies  a 
portion  of  its  margin.  It  is  generally 
supiysed  that  the  lava  currents  of 
Capo  di  Bove  and  Morena  proceeded 
from  this  crater.  In  different  parts 
of  the  plain  are  large  roofed  pits,  50 
feet  deep,  in  which  the  snow  collected 
on  the  neighbouring  heights  for  the 
supply  of  Rome  is  preserved.  Monte 
Cavi,  or  Monte  Albano,  the  highest 
point  of  the  chain  of  mountains  which 
bound  the  Campagna  on  the  east  and 
south,  is  2965  Paris  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  On  the  summit  stood  the 
celebrated  Temple  of  Jupiter  Latialis, 
built  by  Tarquinius  Su{)erbus,  and 
memorable  in  Roman  history  as  the 
scene  of  the  Feriae  Latinae,  the  solemn 
assemblies  of  the  forty-seven  cities 
which  formed  the  Latin  confederation. 
In  the  last  portion  of  the  ascent  from 
the  Campo  di  Annibale  we  join  the 
ancient  Via  TriumphaUs,  the  road  by 
which  the  generals  who  were  allowed 
the  honours  of  the  lesser  triumph, 
or  the  Ovation,  ascended  on  foot  to 
the  temple.  Among  those  who  en- 
Joyed  this  triumph  were  Julius  Canar, 
as  dietetor;  M.  Claudius  Marcellus, 
after  his  victory  at  Syracuse ;  and  Q^ 


Minutius  Rufus,  the  conqueror  of  Li- 
guria.  The  pavement  of  this  ancient 
road  is  nearly  perfect :  the  curb>stones 
are  entire  throughout  the  greater  part 
of  the  ascent,  and  the  central  curves 
for  which  the  Roman  roads  were  re- 
markable, is  still  visible.  Many  of  the 
large  polygonal  blocks  of  which  it  is 
composed  bear  the  letters  V.  N.,  sup- 
posed to  signify  "  Via  Numinis.**  On 
the  summit  is  a  broad  platform,  on 
which  stood  the  celebrated  temple, 
commanding  the  immense  plains  of 
ancient  Latium.  In  the  beginning  of 
the  last  century  the  ruins  then  exist- 
ing were  sufficient  to  show  that  the 
temple  faced  the  south;  that  it  was 
240  feet  long,  and  120  feet  broad ;  and 
that  it  was  richly  decorated  with  co- 
lumns of  white  marble  and  giallo  an- 
tico.  Many  statues  and  bas-reliefs 
were  also  found  upon  the  spot,  which 
proved  the  magnificence  of  the  edifice 
under  the  emperors.  In  1783  all 
these  remains  were  destroyed  by  Car- 
dinal York  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
building the  church  of  the  Passionist 
Convent  Tlie  Roman  antiquaries 
justly  denounced  this  proceeding  as 
an  act  of  Vandalism,  and  it  is  greatly 
to  be  regretted  that  so  distinguished 
an  admirer  of  ancient  art  as  Pius  VI. 
did  not  interpose  to  prevent  it.  The 
temple  was  one  of  the  national  monu- 
ments of  Italy,  and  no  profaning  hand 
should  have  been  allowed  to  remove 
a  single  stone  of  an  edifice  so  import- 
ant to  the  early  history  of  Rome. 
The  only  fragment  now  visible  is  a 
portion  of  the  massive  wall,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  convent  terrace, 
composed  of  large  rectangular  blocks, 
and  evidently  a  part  of  the  ancient 
foundations  of  the  temple.  The  church, 
dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity  by  Car- 
dinal York,  contains  nothing  to  re- 
quire notice.  The  traveller  will  hardly 
expect  to  find  any  object  of  interest, 
either  in  the  church  or  the  adjoining 
convent,  when  he  observes  the  pains 
taken  by  the  monks  to  exclude  firom 
their  windows  the  glorious  panorama 
which  captivates  every  stranger  who 
has  th«  Qi|^i9iQ(iiaD3ift<|  ^  «GiVKvGk%>» 


566        rxccBiioss  pro"  romk  (T^ie  of  Atliano).    f! 
Al  lb»  foot  "f  •I'o  ""'uoi*! 


,of  Nra 


BDil  tte  l"P»l  p»l»««  "f  Ci"t«l  G«n- 
.lullb.  Bnonil  (h'u  Tub  (i>r*|[muiiil 
it  the  wiil«pre«d  pljin  iif  wKieni 
I^riuin,  no  whieli,  »»  upon  ■  m»p,  wt 
nuj  mark  ihv  battlc-Helil*  of  tfae  lut 
m  booki  of  thE  .^nviil,  and  the  weenut 
ttHixnvniHtirtTinrnUiOtHoiBe.  Iio- 
M*4i«ti!ly  M  the  rout  of  Ihe  AILiBii 
bin*  wtatelbt  »in«-tliid  hill  uf  Monte 
Olowt,  the  *uppo«Hl  *it«  of  CorioU, 
and  Citil*  l^iini*,  Ihc  modrrn  re- 
prewnoli'*  of  lln   IVIiMpic  dly  of 

tin*   RianhH  itnt    concMlwl    by    ihe 

UMV  the  line  of  coast  frum  the  pta- 
montarj  of  Porto  d'Anio,  the  snciBnl 
Antium,  to  CivitB  Vecehia;  Hnd  as 
the  tjt  truTenei  the  dark  band  ur 
tonU*  which  iprrnd  nlong  the  shore 
fct  ne«rly  Hitj  mile*,  we  m«y  reoog- 
'  t  Ihe  poeition  of  siwient  Ardea, 
lu  mouth  of  Ihe  Riu  Felice ;  of 
1  PmtioB;  of 
Erno  ;  of  Ostim 
_  IT  the  double  mouth  of  the  Tiber ; 
W  lbs  Pelugic  citadc)  of  Agjrlla,  the 
VuMSWi  C«re,  «l  Ce.veiri ;  Ihi-  cra- 
V  of  the  lake  ofBracciano;  and  (lie 
"  k  of  T0I&  in  the  dliuuce.  On  Ibe 
ecognite  the  Monte 
led  man  of  Sumcte, 
«  Cenara,  the  Lucretilis  of  Ho- 
and  far  beyond  it  the  lon;^  out- 
_.«  of  Monlo  Sarsatelli  near  Rieli, 
Within  the  line  of  the  Sabine  hilh  we 
MB  TtBoulum,  the  lake  of  Gabii.  and 
(be  heigfaia  of  Tiioli ;  but  the  liew 
of  PalestTin*  ia  intercepted  by  Monte 
ma,  which  rl>a  above  the  eastern 
eitremity  of  the  Campo  di  Annibale. 
Behind  Monte  Pila  is  the  "  gelidus 
Algidus'  of  Horace,  on  which  Lord 
Beverly  diacovered,  a  few  years  since, 
the  ruin*  of  a  circular  temple.  This 
nrny  posiibly  be  the  (amouB  temple 
of  Diana  which  Horace  celebrates  in 
■  well-known  passage;  — 


H  -  B^^i 


Deyond  it,  at  tlie  opmin^  of  tbe  pleia 
uf  Ibe  Sacco,  U  the  little  town  of  ViU 
inanlone.  The  hut  and  greatest  fet- 
lure  of  Ihe  landscape  is  Rouu  ilteU 
wiiieh  is  seen  from  this  point  to  great 
adianlage ; 

Bicfba  if  liipe  proctil  jam  cDmplrii  Vc- 

The  summit  of  Ibis  hill  is  well  known 
to  the  classical  tourist  as  the  (pot  on 
which  Virgil  mako  Juno  snrve;  the 
contending  arroiee  previous  lo  the  list 
battle  of  the  £neid  : 


The  ascent  froi 


Applicet  auras. 


to  Caslel 
logh  the  forests  which 
clotlie  this  side  or  Ihc  lake,  commands 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  seeiM 
Italy:  it  crosses  theancicnt  paved  road 
leading  l^i  Bovllls  to  Alba  Longa, 
described  in  a  preiious  page,  mi 
passes  near  Ihe  base  of  Monte  Cueoo, 
Ihe  deep  artificial  channel  at  tlie  low-  ' 
est  edge  of  the  crater,  to  wbieh  we 
haie  before  adverted.  TIlis  channel 
is  about  850  yards  wide  and  30  fi»t 
deep  :  il  is  cut  in  the  tufa  TOct,  and 
CTidenllyaerred  to  carry  ofTihewa 
of  the  lake  into  the  course  of  the  Ri- 
vus  Albanus,  prior  to  the  eaoEtruc 
of  the  emissary.  The  Ri>UB  Alha- 
nu>  is  now  a  mere  <1ry  bed,  wbicb 
the  high  post'road  from  Rome  to 
Naples  crosse*  shortly  before  it  reaches 
Alhano. 

Another  road  leads  from  Roeca  di 
Papa  to  Casiel  Gandolfo,  Ibroogh 
Palaiiola,  and  along  Ibe  southern  mar- 
gin of  the  lake,  traversing  the  lover 
gatlrria  below  the  picturesque  coDTenl 
of  the  Cflppuccini.  From  whatever 
quarter  the  lake  is  approached,  the 
traveller  cannot  (ail  to  be  stnick  by 
its  eiceeding  beauty.  No  one  who  has 
'  not.  eii^qi&&  fa^  Taw^At^v  wjtBienf 


Tapal  States,"]  excvtlbiojus  from  rome  (Lake  of  Albano).  5ff7 


of  the  Alban  and  the  Sabine  hills  can 
form  any  idea  of  the  resources  of  Rome 
as  a  summer  residence. 

Caatel  Gandolfo,  a  small  village  of 
1000  souls,  derives  its  chief  importance 
from  the  summer  palace  of  the  popes, 
which  forms  so  conspicuous  an  object 
from  all  parts  of  the  lake.  In  the 
12th  century  it  was  the  property  of 
the  Gandolfi  family,  whose  Tunis  or 
Castrum  de  GandtdphU  is  mentioned 
in  many  documents  of  the  period. 
Under  Honorius  III.,  in  1218,  it 
appears  to  have  passed  to  the  Savelli, 
who  held  it  as  their  stronghold  for 
nearly  400  years,  defying  alternately 
the  popes,  the  barons,  and  the  neigh- 
bouring towns,  although  they  were 
occasionally  driven  from  their  position 
by  superior  force.  In  14S6  it  was 
sacked  and  burnt  by  the  troops  of 
Eugenius  IV.,  because  Cola  &ivelli 
had  given  an  asylum  to  Antonio  Pon- 
tedera,  who  had  rebelled  against  the 
pope.  On  this  occasion  the  castle 
was  confiscated ;  but  the  Savelli  again 
obtained  possession  of  it  in  1447,  in 
the  pontificate  of  Nicholas  V.  This 
illustrious  family  continued  to  hold  it 
with  occasional  interruptions  until 
1596,  about  which  time  Sixtus  V. 
had  made  it  a  duchy  in  favour  of 
Bernardino  Savelli ;  but  the  fortunes 
of  his  noble  house  were  too  much 
reduced  to  support  the  dignity,  and 
he  sold  the  property  to  the  Camera 
Apostolica,  in  that  year,  for  150,000 
scudt,  an  immense  sum  for  the  period. 
I».1604  Clement  VIII.,  by  a  decree 
of  the  Consistory,  incorporated  it  with 
the  temporal  possessions  of  the  Holy 
See.  Urban  VIII.,  about  16S0,  de- 
termined to  convert  it  into  a  summer 
residence  for  the  sovereign  pontiffs, 
and  began  the  palace  in  that  year  from 
the  designs  of  Carlo  Maderno,  Barto* 
lomnieo  Breccioli,  and  Domenico 
CastellL  In  1660  the  plans  were 
enlarged  and  improved  by  Alexander 
VII.,  and  the  whole  building  was 
restored  and  reduced  to  its  present 
form  by  Clement  XIII.  in  the  last 
century.  Since  that  time  several  Ro- 
man   families,  and  pArticulwly  th« 


Barberini,  the  Ludovisi,  the  Albani, 
and  the  Torlonia,  have  erected  villas 
in  the  vicinity,  which  have  added  con- 
siderably to  the  beauty  of  the  lake. 
The  situation  of  Castel  Gandolfo  is 
extremely  picturesque :  it  occupies  a 
volcanic  peak  above  the  north-western 
margin  c^  the  lake ;  and  from  its  lofty 
position,  1350  feet  above  the  Medi- 
terranean and  431  above  the  lake,  its 
climate  is  pure  and  bracing.  The 
Papal  Palace,  the  only  country-house 
belonging  to  the  pope,  is  a  plain,  un- 
ornamented  building,  with  some  large 
and  conveniem  apartments :  the  view 
from  it,  over  the  lake,  is  extremely 
fine.  Tlie  church  adjoining,  dedicated 
to  St.  Thomas  of  Villanuova,  was 
built  in  1661  by  Alexander  VII.,  from 
the  designs  of  Bernini,  in  the  form 
of  a  Greek  cross.  It  is  surmounted 
with  a  cupola,  and  ornamented 
with  Doric  pilasters.  The  interior 
presents  an  altarpiece  by  Pietro  da 
Cortona,  and  an  Assumption  by  Carlo 
Maratta.  A  pretty  path  leads  down 
the  hill  to  the  lake,  the  shores  of  which 
literally  swarm  with  frogs.  "  The 
lake  of  Albano,"  says  Sir  W.  Gell, 
**  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pieces  of 
water  in  the  world,  and  in  respect  to 
scenery,  beyond  comparison  the  finest 
of  those  of  purely  volcanic  origin  in 
Italy,  is  about  two  miles  and  a  third 
in  length,  one  and  a  third  in  width, 
and  more  than  six  miles  in  circuit. 
The  most  remarkable  circumstance 
connected  with  it  was  the  formation  of 
the  emissary,  by  which  the  Romans, 
while  engaged  in  their  contest  with 
the  Veientes,  a.  u.  c.  359  (b.  c.  394), 
succeeded  in  lowering  the  waters, 
which  they  imagined  were  in  danger 
of  bursting  their  banks  and  destroy- 
ing the  adjacent  country.  This  emis- 
sary is  a  subterraneous  canal,  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  ex- 
cavated generally  In  the  tufa :  it  va- 
ries in  height  from  about  seven  and  a 
half  to  nine  or  ten  leet,  and  is  never 
less  than  four  feet  in  width.  The  upper 
end  of  the  emissary  it  of  course  nearly 
on  a  level  with  the  surfiMse  of  the 


\ 


'excuxsioxb  rnoM  bomb  (LaXe  q^AltaA^.  ' 


ihimI  nina  under  lb*  hill  and  town 
t  dutd  OuiduHb,  wUidi  is  431  r«i 
r   lh«    UkB.       Tl«    »uroniU    of 

i'  AltwDo,  an  ilic  opposite  uile 

$  lih*  Ukt,   riws  :04S  fnl  from  its 
MTK      Catiia  boliw,  lueb  u  were 

iiidently  intended  to  give 
innel  below,  mty  be  ilill 
irrtd  In  vvioui  parts  of  llw  hill. 
,  the  v*i«r  11  now  Mddoiii , 
iwo  feet  deep,  and  doii  not , 

^pw;  be  obacrved  b;  aawns  of  >  cuidle 
Pfliwcd  upon  a  flmi  iiWeatried  down 


called   > 


liiui  old 
ipot  tvndei 
delightful 
number   of    blocltt,    the    temaint  of 
ind  building*,  at  the  watra*! 


Ige  all  round  ll 
lueb   the    llama 


argc  gro 


ring  the  brll- 


ulba 


II,      Over  the  ttrei 


with  ■ 


!    Iarg«, 


i>d  of  ll 


of  the 


country.  They  have  all  the  appear- 
ance of  antiquity;  for  though  not 
only  an  arch,  but  a  flat  arch  is  used, 
which  would  seem  to  appertain  to  a 
late  period,  yet  their  antiquity  i« 
ccidenced  by  (he  want  of  skill  mani- 
Csted  in  the  shape  of  the  Blones,  which 
not  beingsuffictently  cuneiform,  it  is 
■urprisiiig  tliat  the  arch  has  enisled  so 
long.  It  is  now  indeed  supported  by 
a  DKKlern  one  below,  and  by  n  wall  of 


WLtl 


with 


etwlosute  fonned   by   this   a 

wall  are  MmeBncicnl  stone  « 

a  bold  moulding,  the   placi  ^ 

■Tidi;nllr  been  of  that  sacred  di^scrip- 

NymphiEuni.  Possibly  it  might  have 
been  dedicated  to  the  nymphs  as  a 
propitiation,  when  the  tunnel  was  es- 
calated ;  it  certainly  eiisted  when 
Somitian  and  others  of  the  emperors 
took  ID  much  delight  in  this  region, 
A  quadrilateral  court,  well  walled  in 
with  large  stonos  in  paiallelagrains, 
■uoce«dB  10  the  flat  aieh ;  opposite  to 
which  the  water   enters  a  narrower 


little  distance  to  tba 
north  of  the  emissary,  has  bem  deco- 
rated with  Doric  triglyphs,  and  was 
duubllesB  frequenllj'  used  as  (lie  uun- 

tisn,  whose  palace  was  situated  od  the 
hill  aboTc.  These  retreats  weic  oT 
course  constructed  long  after  the  emis- 
sary, when  the  eipt-rience  of  ages  had 
shown  thai  there  tras  no  fiirtherdai^^ 
to  be  apprehended  liom  tlie  risiug  of 
tbewater."  To Ihese accurate obsem- 
tiotis  we  tnay  add,  that  from  many 
appearances  on  the  sides  of  the  lake, 
and  from  the  authority  of  I-iry,  there 
is  no  doubt  that  the  lake  was  origv 
ually  more  than  SOO  feet  higher  thui 
ilie  present  surface;  the  deep  artifi- 
elal  cutting  between  Castel  Gandolfb 
and  Marino,  at  the  lowest  edge  a^  die 
crsler,  which  we  have  noticed  in  a 
preiious  page,  evidently  served  Is 
carry  off  the  waters  into  the  UtUe 
stream  whose  bad  we  pass  in  travel- 
ling on  the  high  post-road  from  Rome 
to  Albano.  The  tertns  of  the  oracle 
of  Delphi,  as  given  by  Livy,  diatinollj 
refer  to  this  channel,  direcling  lJ|Bt 
the  waters  should  nut  be  allowed  to 
by  their  own  river,  KHDjii 


The  conn 


of  the 


with 


nailer 


of  the 


Vflull,  b 


r  possaj^e 
My  be  of  more  recent  coi 
and   from   the   ibnn    of 
rangeofbloclis  just  below  the  arch 
~         IS  not  improbable  that  tlic  origins 
ring  might  have   been  bj  whM 


the  siege  of  Veii  is  easily  eiplalned 
tlie  oracle  directed  the  constniotiQii 
of  the  emissary,  in  reference  to  the 
hint  of  the  Eiruscan  soothsayer  that 
ihey  should  enter  Veil  by  means  of  ■ 
mine,  the  art  of  forming  which  was 
then  unknown  to  ihe  Romans.  By 
the  exercise  of  their  skill  to  the  opera- 
tions of  the  emissary,  they  obtained 
sufficient  knowledge  to  enable  tbem 
h  gave  thera  po»- 


niA  ^> 


CV\BfkA  ot  V«vL 


Papal  States,"]     excursions  from  rome  {Alhano),  569 


Travellers  who  visit  the  lake  from 
Albano  may  always  find  donkeys  in  the 
town  ready  for  hire  at  three  pauls  each. 
The  cicerone  expects  five  pauls,  and 
the  custode  at  the  emissary  who  finds 
lights  expects  two  pauls. 

Albano. 

A  very  beautiful  road  of  two  miles, 
shaded  by  ilexes,  and  skirting  the 
ground  of  the  Villa  Barberini,  leads 
us  from  Castel  Gandolfo  to  Al- 
bano. It  is  called  the  GaVeria  di 
Sopra,  and  is  well  known  for  its  fine 
views  of  the  lake  and  of  Monte  Cavi. 
The  traveller  who  visits  Albano  from 
Home  traverses  the  first  two  stages  of 
the  high  post-road  from  Rome  to 
Naples,  and  has  an  opportunity  of  en- 
joying the  grand  effects  produced  by 
the  magnificent  aqueducts  which  span 
the  Campagna  with  their  colossal 
arches.  The  details  of  this  interest- 
ing road  are  given  in  the  Handbook 
for  SovUhem  Italy,  but  we  may  here 
mention  the  most  prominent  ob- 
jects which  preseht  themselves  to  our 
notice.  About  six  miles  from  Rome 
is  the  picturesque  ruined  tomb  of  the 
first  century  of  the  empire,  erro- 
neously called  by  the  older  antiquaries 
the  Temple  of  Fortuna  Muliebris,  I 
celebrated  in  the  history  of  Coriolanus 
as  having  been  erected  on  the  spot 
where  he  met  his  wife  and  mother,  j 
and  was  moved  by  their  tears  and  en-  ^ 
treaties  to  '*  set  his  mercy  and  his  ho-  ' 
nour  at  difference."  An  examination  . 
of  the  ruins  will  show  that  the  build- 
ing could  never  have  been  a  temple,  <, 
and  that  it  is  not  a  republican  but  an 
imperial  structure.  The  supposed  site 
of  the  temple  is  described  in  our  ac- 
count of  the  road  to  Frascati,  at  p. 
555,  Beyond  this  we  pass  the  first 
post-station  on  this  route,  at  Torre 
di  Mezza  Via,  which  counts  as  Impost 
from  Rome.  Near  Frattocchie,  at 
the  foot  of  tlie  hill  of  Albano,  we  join 
the  Via  Appia  close  to  the  column 
erected  in  1757  by  I^  Maire  and  Bot- 
cowich  for  their  measurements  of  the 
meridian  of  Rome.     The  other  point 


of  the  base  is  the  tomb  of  Ciecilia 
Metella,  giving  5^^562^  palms;  but 
the  two  extremities  are  on  so  different 
a  level,  that  Sir  W.  Gell,  in  his  trigo- 
nometrical survey,  was  unable  to  mea- 
sure any  angles  firom  it.  Frattocchie 
is  supposed  to  mark  the  scene  of  the 
fatal  quarrel  between  Milo  and  Clo- 
dius  the  tribune,  in  which  the  latter 
was  murdered,  and  which  forms  the 
subject  of  Cicero's  oration  **  pro  Mi- 
lone."  On  the  right  of  the  road  are  the 
ruins  of  Bovillae,  founded  by  Latinus 
Sylvius,  well-known  for  its  conquest  by 
Coriolanus  and|is  the  Sacrarium  of  the 
Julian  family. '  Among  the  ruins  are 
portions  of  the  circus,  the  theatre  and 
the  ancient  walls,  built  of  large  qua- 
drangular masses  of  tufa. 

The  road  near  this  crosses  the  dry 
bed  of  the  river  by  which  the  Alban 
lake  is  believed  to  have  discharged  its 
waters  through  an  artificial  cutting, 
long  anterior  to  the  construction  of 
the  emissary.  A  modern  toad  leads 
from  this  spot  to  the  Villa  Torlonia 
at  Castel  Gandolfo,  and  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  this  we  cross  the  ancient 
road  which  led  to  Alba  Longa.  Nu- 
merous tombs,  many  of  which  are 
proved  by  the  inscriptions  to  have  be- 
longed to  eminent  families  of  ancient 
Rome,  border  the  road  on  each  side 
during  the  ascent  to  Albano.  About 
half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  town 
a  massive  square  tomb,  built  in  the 
form  of  a  sepulchral  altar  and  about 
thirty  feet  high,  with  three  niches 
within  and  places  for  vases  or  sarco- 
phagi, was  long  supposed  to  be  the 
tomb  of  Clodius,  in  spite  of  the  ex- 
press declaration  of  Cicero  that  his 
body  was  burnt  in  the  Roman  Forum 
and  oast  out,  *^»poliatum  imaginilmtt 
exequiis,  pompa,  laudationej  infelicissi' 
mis  HgniSf  semiugtulatum^  noctumis  ea^ 
nibus  dilaniandum.*'  The  view  look- 
ing back  during  the  ascent  of  this 
hill  presents  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
impressive  scenes  in  Italy.  It  com- 
mands the  whole  Campagna  as  far  as 
Soracte :  in  the  middle  of  the  plain 
Rome  is  seen  with  its  domes  and 
towers  and  obeluks,  rising  in  soUtar>[ 


5-ii 


BxcfmsTom  *»ow  mo>a(A^ 


Ktan^rur  amlibl  lli*  mini  of  the  Hc- 
•Dtats  C*ni|wgiu,  like  in  auii  in  Ihc 
dMnL  llrrood.  on  tlie  lufl  luind,  (be 
long  lin*  of  ibe  H«<lilerrini!«n  eoin- 
pl>t«  thif  itiiklng  pietuic.  CIoh  to 
Ibe  gMc  of  Albano  ■»  the  mini  of  » 
foe  muiiic  lamb,  with  coracr-itono 
if  vhlic  msrhlc,  with  which  the  entire 
IdutB  of  fuur  «ari«  appemrs  to 
*  en  orijrituilljr  coiered.  Il 
■  wpulchral  chamber  Ittolte 
R  long  and  eight  broad,  and  is  »d- 
ilUrA  by  the  bed  authorilies  to  be 
M  tomb  of  Pompe;  the  Great,  wtiow 
were  brougbi  from  Egypt  and 
iicd  here  by  Cornelia.  Tbe 
Matrnwitt  of  Plutarch,  who  says  lliat 
the  tomb  of  Pompey  waa  dote  !□  bii 
villa  al  Albanum,  perfectly  eorrcs- 
jmid*  with  thia  locilil;.  On  the 
right  dT  the  gale  i*  the  Villa  Altieri. 
•ad  on  tlie  left  ii  a  new  road  leading 
10  Caitei  Gandolfo,  The  tnoclern 
■ruu  of  Albano  are  the  white  sow  of 
£neai  and  her  thirty  pign  -,  but  tra- 
vellera  must  not  be  deceived  by  this 
emblem,  fur  Albsno  baa  noprelenuons 
to  be  coniidcred  the  cite  of  Alba 
1-oogtL.  After  entering  the  gate,  on 
tbe  right  hand  is  the  Villa  Doria. 

AlMtsa,   M  miien  from  Rome  (SJ 
potM).     (  /jiNi .-  La  Cilti  di  Parigi ; 
EuMp«i  both  very  good).      An  epis- 
copal towD  of  5600  souls,  about  900 
fest  DboTe  the  sea,  celebrsted  for  the 
beauty  of  its  soenerv  and  the  purity 
of  its  air.       Albano   and   L'AriccIa 
have  been  called  the  Hampslend  and 
^^^ghgate  of  Borne,  and  during  the 
^^Mnimer   months  they  nre  filled  with 
^^KUtDTa.      Albano,  particularly,  is  tbe 
^^HlVaurtte  resort  oF  the  Koman  nobility 
^^Storing  the  tittigj/lalura.      At  this  sea- 
^^^tOB  H  public  carriage  rum  regularly 
between    Altioiio  and     Rome    three 
times  a  week;  the  fere  is  five  pauls. 
Although    the   town  is   healthy,  tbe 
Cam pagna  below  it  is  loo  near  the  re- 
gion of  malaria  to  be  regarded  without 
Buspicion  during  the  eitrerae  heali  of 

part  of  the  grounds  of  the  two  tilks 

of  Pompuy  and  Domitiaii  i   traces  ol 

formeT  are  supposed  to  be  lidUt 


■oe 


in  some  mn&sct  of  reticulated  mawnry 
in  the  groimdi  of  the  Villa  Doris. 
and  in  tome  fragments  in  the  V'rlti 
Uarberioi  on  the  road  to  Caslel  Can- 
dulfo  I  but  as  DoDiitian  included  both 
the  villui  of  Pompey  and  of  Qodiut 
in  his  immense  range  of  buildings,  it 
would  be  extremely  diHicult  to  de- 
termine tbe  exact  position  of  the  more 
ancient  structures.  The  neighbour- 
baud  of  tbe  town  was  cotercd  witb 
rillasofthe  Ito  man  patricians,  many 
of  wliich  are  still  traceable.  Tbe 
mo!t  remarkable  remains  at  AlboiHi 
are  those  of  the  Amphitheatre  of  Do- 
raitian,  between  the  church  of  S.  Pa- 
olo and  the  Cappueeini,  mentioued  bj 
Suetonius  and  by  Juvenal  as  tbe  tcene 
o(  tbe  most  lerolting  cruelties  of  tbe 
last  and  worst  of  the  twelve  C^uri. 
Near  S.  Paolo  arc  the  ruins  of  Ills 
camp  of  the  Praitnriaii  guard:  agrcat 
portion  of  the  walls,  and  one  of  the 
gates  still  exist,  lire  tcalls  are  built 
of  quadrilateral  masses,  many  of 
which  are  twelve  feet  long,  Ai^aiD- 
ing  the  western  wall  is  a  cireulw 
building  now  called  Ibe  church  atSo, 
Maria  della  Rotonda,  on  the  ioaret 
which    ore   soma   beautiliil    aeaDthiM 

marble,  .brought  from  the  villa  of 
Domitian  :  this  building  is  supposed 
to  have  been  originally  a  temple  of 
Minerva.  In  the  Strada  di  Gesit  « 
Maria  are  numerousremoins of  baths. 
The  Cappuccini,  between  the  town 
and  the  lake,  oclebroted  for  its  mag- 
nificent view,  no  doubt  ocouplea  part 
of  the  villa  of  Domitian.      More  ex- 

pina-groves  of  the  beautiful  VilU 
Barberini  on  the  road  to  Costel  Gan- 
dolfo.  Considerable  interest  was 
excited  about  30  years  ago  by  a  cotlec- 
lion  of  ancient  sepulhcral  urns  belong- 
ing to  Signer  Carnevali  of  Albano, 
said  to  have  been  discovered  undo'  a 
bed  of  lava,  and  consequently  to  have 
belonged  to  a  people  anterior  to  tbe 
extinction  of  tbe  volcano.  TIlia  the- 
ory has  been  set  at  test  by  the  dis- 


■UieU  1 


Bcquail 


Papal  States.']    excursions  from  home  (L'Ariccia).         571 


with  lueh  remains  has  proved  to  be 
in  the  Oacan  character.  They  are 
now  preserved  in  the  Museo  Grego- 
riano  in  the  Vatican,  and  are  con- 
sidered by  some  antiquaries  to  repre- 
sent the  huts  inhabited  by  the  Latin 
tribes  (p.  475.).  When  first  discovered, 
they  were  gravely  described  as  antedi- 
luvian. 

The  agreeable  wine  of  Albano,  from 
the  vineyards  around  the  lake,  still 
keeps  up  the  reputation  it  eivjoyed  in 
the  days  of  Horace  : 

"  Est  mihi  nonura  supenuitis  annum 
Plenus  Albani  cadus."  Od.  iv.  11. 

"  Ut  Attica  Virgo 
Cum  lacris  Cereris,  procedit  fVucus  Hjrdaspet, 
Cccuba  viua  ferens :  Alcon  Cbium  marU  ex> 

pets. 
HIc  herus :  Albanum,  Mscenas,  sive  Faler- 

num 
Te  magis  appositU  delectat ;  habemut  utnim- 

quc."  IL  Sat.  viii.  la 

Albano  has  been  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric  since  a.d.  460.  Adrian  IV. 
(Nicholas  Brcakspeare),  the  only 
JSnglish  prelate  i»hu  ever  occupied  the 
papal  chair,  was  bishop  of  Albano  for 
some  years  prior  to  his  accession. 

The  Via  Appia  passes  in  a  straight 
line  through  Albano,  and  the  post- 
road  after  leaving  the  town  traverses 
it  for  a  great  part  of  the  way,  until  it 
arrives  at  Castel  S.  Gennarello,  where 
it  makes  a  sudden  and  unnecessary 
turn  to  the  left  in  order  to  reach  Vel- 
letri.  A  short  distance  beyond  the 
gate  of  Albano  is  the  sepulchral  mo- 
nument so  often  described  as  that  of 
the  Iloratii  and  Curiatii.  The  older 
Italian  antiquaries  who  suggested  this 
idea  had  taken  no  pains  to  examine 
how  far  such  a  supposition  was  borne 
out  by  history ;  but  in  recent  years  a 
more  diligent  collation  of  authorities, 
and  above  all  a  more  accurate  ac- 
quaintance with  Etruscan  remains, 
has  not  only  entirely  disproved  the 
assertion,  but  has  established  beyond 
a  doubt  the  Etruscan  origin  of  the 
tomb,  and  the  occasion  of  its  erection. 
Tlie  base  is  fifty  Roman  feet  square, 
and  twenty-four  high  :  upon  this  rise 
at  the  angles  four  pyramids  or  cones, 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  round  pe- 
destal twenty-seven  feet  in  diameter. 


containing  a  small  chamber,  in  which 
an  urn  with  ashes  was  discovered  in 
the  last  century.  The  traveller  who 
will  take  the  pains  to  compare  this 
with  the  description  of  the  tomb  of 
Porsena  at  Chiusi,  as  given  in  the 
thirty-sixth  book  of  Pliny,  on  the  au- 
thority ofVarro,  will  hardly  require  a 
stronger  argument  in  fiivour  of  the 
conclusions  of  Piranesi,  D*Hancar- 
ville,  and  Nibby,  that  it  is  the  tomb 
of  A  runs,  the  son  of  Porsena,  who 
was  killed  by  Aristodemus  in  his  at- 
tack upon  Aricia.  As  no  trace  re- 
mains at  Chiusi  of  the  magnificent 
sepulchre  of  Porsena,  this  ruin  may 
be  considered  a  valuable  illustration 
of  Pliny*s  description.  The  tomb  of 
the  Horatii  and  Curiatii  must  be 
soughttelsewhere,  for  they  were  buried 
on  the  spot  where  they  fell,  which  was 
distant  only  five  miles  fi'om  Rome. 

L*Ariccia, 
about  a  mile  from  Albano,  separated 
from  it  by  a  deep  hollow.  The  post- 
road  leaves  the  Appian  near  the  tomb 
of  Aruns,  and  proceeds  by  a  steep 
but  picturesque  ascent  to  L*Ariccia, 
through  which  the  interest  of  the 
Chigi  family  succeeded  in  carrying  the 
modem  road,  although  the  Appian 
afforded  a  straight  and  easy  passage. 
The  deep  ravine  which  separates 
L'Ariccia  from  Albano  abounds  in 
the  most  beautiful  scenery.  The 
modem  town,  with  a  population  of 
1300  souls,  is  placed  on  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the 
citadel  of  the  celebrated  Aricia,  one 
of  the  confederate  cities  of  Latium, 
whose  history  and  connexion  with 
the  nymph  Egeria  are  so  often  alluded 
to  by  the  Latin  poets.  It  was  sup- 
posed to  have  been  founded  by  Hip- 
polytus,  who  was  worshipped  under 
the  name  of  Virbius  in  the  neighbour- 
ing grove,  in  conjunction  with  Diana. 
We  gather  from  Virgil  that  it  was  one 
of  the  most  powerful  towns  of  Latium 
at  the  arrival  of  ^neas : 

**  At  Trivia  Hlppdlytuiir  secretlt  alma  re- 
eoudit 
Sedlbui,  ct  njmpba  Egtriii  nemorique  re- 
legati 


KxctmsKm*  Fnow  hum*  {Corioli)' 


CSMt.t 


•■  bnww  aumtma  tectfit  Arl^l.  Bom* 

Ill  imporUnn  in  the  tinu  of  Cieero 
u  pnired  by  hU  eloqueot  dcicription 
in  the  ihitil  Philippic,  when  ho  re- 
plio  to  Ihe  tiuck  of  Antony  on  the 
molbtr  of  Augusiua,  who  wm  a  ta- 
li.* of  Ihc  town.  During  the  rt!ire«l 
of  pDrKn«'<  »nny  from  Home  il  WM 
■ttuluid  liy  a  dcuchment  under  hii 
sun  Aruni,  who  wwi  finally  dcfeRtHl 
■nd  >l*in  by  Ariatodcniua  of  Cuniic,  | 
ai  we  ion.  from  Liiy :  the  Elru«c»n  | 
liriofe  wu  buried  near  the  wene  of' 
MtMti,  in  (he  lamb  idreiidj  described. 
The  indent  city  liiy  on  the  toulhero 
slope  of  the  hill,  Miending  down  lo 
the  Appisn.  whtre  numeroui  remsina 
(till  exist.  Among  theK  mint  btc 
»tiie  cily  wnlli,  and  ■  highly  curioiu 
^fcgment  with  ■  perpendicular  uper- 
brc  thrinigh  which  ■  luffiiienl  quan- 
Mly  of  WBtef  ii  discharged  to  giTe  ri« 
T»  the  question  whether  it  is  the 
binary  of  the  lake  of  Nemi  or  the 


I  of  Dial 


The 


i 


liseovered  by  Pi 
Nibby,  who  eonsidcred  il  to  be  ' 
tile  Temple  of  Diana,  whose  lite  liad  ' 
been  preriously  sought  Tor  on  the  aide 
of  the   lake   of    Ncml       There   are 

if  this  opinion:  the  account  of  ■ 
Strabo,  who  *ays  that  the  temple  over-  ' 
IJooked  a  sea,  does  not  correspiind  ao' 
lake  of  Nemi  as  with  I 
illow  below  these  ruins  I 
called  the  Valltriccia,  a  large  crater' 
eight  miles  in  circumference,  which  I 
was  evidently  filled  with  water  in  his' 
time,  like  the  other  Tolcanic  lakes  of 
Athano,  Nemi,  &e.  A  still  more  ^ 
cimclusire  argument  is  the  bas-telief 
found  here  in  IT91  by  Cardinal  Des- 
puig,  who  unfortunately  sent  it  to 
Palma  in  the  islaodof  Majorca,  where, 
if  il  ciiat  at  nil,  it  ii  comparatively  1  oat 
to  the  Korlil.     Tbis  lematkaWe  ftag- 


mentwaaSJ  feet  long  and  3  feci  high: 

i  I  represented  the  priest  of  the  uraplein 
Ihe  act  at  slaying  his  predeecssur,  to- 
tirely  confirming  the  account  of  Stral«, 
who  ays  that  the  barbario  oTdin.-ineei 
of  the  letnple  required  that  the  bigh 
priest  called  the  Kei  Nemoiemi^ 
should  have  killed  bis  predecessor  in 
single  com  lial.  Anengravingwaima^ 
from  the  marble  by  Pietro  Fonlini, 
which  is  now  raluable  Iroiii  it*  eiee*. 
sive  rarity.  The  founder  of  tbisteiD- 
ple,  according  lo  Paunnias,  was  Qip- 
polylus-,  but  other  writers  aacribe  it 
to  brcslca,  after  he  had  taken  fvfuge 
at  Aricia  with  Ipbigcnis :    the  poeti 

>Te  of  course  availed  themacll 

ith  these  Elements. 

The  modern  town  of  L'Ariecia  ha 
a  Rne  paLice  belontEing  to  the  Chi^ 
Riuiily    built    by    Bernini,     and    t' 
church  of  the  Auuniione  delta  Vc 
gine,    built   by    Alexander    VIL 
I6fi4  flrom  (he  designs  of  the  same  a 
chiteit.     Its  imposing  cupola  ia  bril- 
liaolly  decorated  internally  wtth  atlte- 
coes  by  Antonio  Kaggi.     Tbe  fnMO 
of  the  Assumption,  and  the  picture  of 
S.  Fcancesco  dc  Salei,  are  by  Bents- 
none  ;  the  St.  Thomas  of  Villancta  it 
by  RaJjfaeUa  Coaiu,  aud  tbe  SL  {Ha- 
aeppe   and    S.    Antoolo    are  by   Qu 


Monti  6iov»  (CottiOLi),>,i.o  C 
Lavinia  (Lamuviuu), 
From  the  hill  of  Aricia  and  from 
parts  of  the  road  to  Cenuui  . 
over  Ihe  broad  crater  of  the  Vallerio- 
cia,  la  seen  the  hill  of  Moite  Giov,  the 
lowest  hill  of  Ihe  range  which  d^ 
sends  fioin  Monte  Caii  to  Ihe  plaiiu 
It  is  covered  with  vineyards,  and  ia 
situated  on  tbe  left  of  the  road  lead-] 
ing  to  the  ancient  city  of  Aotiur 
Monle  Glove  is  peculiarly  inteteatiag 
as  the  spot  on  which  the  best  nod 
antiquaries  agree  in  filing 
the  celebrated  city  of  Con'ofi',  a 
tnousia  the  history  of  Coriolanua: 


Papal  States.']    excursions  from  houisl  {Genzano).         573 


If  you  have  writ  your  annalf  true,  *tif 

there 
That  like  an  eagle  in  a  dovecote,  I 
Flutter*d  your  Volaces  in  Corloii : 
Alone  I  did  it.'* 

There  are  no  ruins  of  the  ancient  city 
to  be  discovered  :  indeed,  Pliny  states 
that  it  was  deserted  in  his  day,  and 
that  its  site  was  without  a  trace  of  its 
existence.  On  a  projecting  hill  to  the 
south-east  is  the  picturesque  little 
town  of  Civita  Lavinia,  with  800  in- 
habitants,  occupying  the  site  of  ancient 
Lanuvium,  founded  by  Diomede,  and 
one  of  the  confederate  cities  of  La- 
tium.  It  is  celebrated  by  Livy  for 
its  worship  of  Juno  Sospita,  whose 
temple  was  said  to  be  guarded  by  a 
dragon.  It  is  also  memorable  as  the 
birthplace  of  Milo  and  of  Mursna, 
well-known  by  the  able  advocacy  of 
Cicero,  of  Roscius  the  comedian,  and 
of  the  three  Antonines.  The  modem 
town  is  built  of  massive  rectangular 
blocks  evidently  the  remains  of  an- 
cient buildings.  At  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  hill  are  the  ruins  of  a 
building  composed  of  large  blocks  of 
squared  stone,  supposed  to  be  part  of 
the  temple  of  Juno.  Near  it  are  the 
remains  of  an  amphitheatre  and  mas- 
sive walls  of  peperino,  built  with 
stones  in  many  instances  upwards  of 
six  feet  in  length. 

GXNZANO, 

about  3  miles  from  Albano  (}  post). 
Among  the  most  remarkable  objects 
presented  by  the  route  from  L'Ariccia 
to  Genzano  is  the  magnificent  cause- 
way, 700  feet  in  length  and  about  40 
feet  broad,  by  which  the  Appiarf  Way 
was  carried  across  the  northern  angle 
of  the  crater  of  Vallericcia.  It  is  en- 
tirely constructed  of  squared  blocks  of 
peperino,  seven  feet  in  length,  ar- 
ranged in  alternate  courses  of  long  and 
short  stones.  The  causeway  is  pierced 
by  three  round  arched  apertures  for 
the  passage  of  water  from  the  hills, 
and  in  the  deepest  portion  of  the  val- 
ley its  height  is  not  less  than  forty 
feet  The  whole  structure,  particu- 
larly in  the  upper  part  of  the  ateent,  is 
highly  interesting*    The  poat*roed  to 


Genzano  is  badly  paved  with  stones 
taken  iirom  the  Via  Appia  below 
L'Ariccia,  which  was  destroyed  for 
the  purpose  at  the  end  of  the  last  cen- 
tury. The  tedious  ascent  to  the  town 
is  usually  beset  with  beggars,  who 
seem  to  be  the  true  representatives  of 
those  which  infested  this  hill  in  the 
time  of  Juvenal : 

**  Dignus  Aricinus  qui  mendicaret  ad  axes, 
filandaque  devexae  jactaret  basta  rhcdae." 

Sat.  iv. 

A  fine  triple  avenue  of  elms  called  the 
OlmatOj  planted  by  the  Duke  Giuli- 
ano  Cesarini  in  1643,  forms  the  eif- 
trance  to  Genzano.  The  point  where 
the  plantation  branches  off  into  three 
avenues  is  called  the  piazza :  one  of 
.these  branches  leads  to  the  Cappuccini 
and  to  the  lake  of  Nemi,  the  middle 
one  to  the  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Ce- 
sarini, and  the  third  to  the  town. 
Travellers  who  wish  to  visit  the  lake 
will  do  well  to  leave  their  carriage 
at  this  spot :  the  descent  occupies  half 
an  hour,  and  a  path  leads  direct  from 
the  lake  to  the  post-house,  where  the 
carriage  can  wait  their  return. 

Getizano  ( Inn :  La  Posta,  very  bad), 
a  picturesque  town  of  4600  souls,  ce- 
lebrated fur  its  annual  festival  on  the 
eighth  day  of  the  Corpus  Domini, 
called  the  Infiorata  cU  Genzano,  from 
the  custom  of  strewing  flowers  along 
the  streets  so  as  to  represent  ara- 
besques, heraldic  devices,  figures,  and 
other  ornaments.  The  effect  produced 
by  this  kind  of  flower-mosaic  is  ex- 
tremely pretty,  and  during  the  festa 
the  town  is  filled  with  visitors  from 
Rome  and  the  surrounding  villages. 
On  one  of  the  hills  above  the  town  is 
the  feudal  mansion  of  the  dukes  of 
Cesarini,  in  a  commanding  and  beau- 
tiful position,  overlooking  the  lake  of 
Nemi.  Higher  up  is  the  convent  of 
the  Cappuccini,  which  enjoys  a  pros- 
pect of  even  greater  beauty.  The 
modern  cathedra],  built  in  the  last 
century,  has  an  altarpiece  representing 
the  Trinity  and  the  passage  of  the 
souls  from  purgatory,  by  an  unknown 
Spanish  (?)  master.  The  Duke  Sforsa 
Cesarini,  who  manned  M^  ^Vv>s\k<\^ 


Excum 


I 

^^K  Wniunii  to  inlroduce  thl*  «i|stem  of 

^^V  ■deeilion  dd  hi*  estates  t<ul  during 

^^1  Ills  ponlificale  of  Ihe  late  pujw  infiDl 

^^m  Mhaoli  *cte  itrictlj  prohibJlctL   Pius 

^H    IX.,  hovevtr,  hu  letrd  with  greater 

^^F  itbenlil]'.  anil  conceded  liU  unction. 

^^     Md  the  duke  hu  placed  the  cstablilh- 

nent  under    the   chirgu   of    an    ei- 

perieneed    Ieuh«r     from      PiacenzB, 

where     tlic     h«»t      regulated    infant 

mIhmIi  are  to  bo  found. 

ILiEC  or  Nksl 
From  tlic  poal-house  of  Oeniano  a 
I  walk  of  a  fev  minuteH  britigtusto  the 
kke  of  Nemi,  ttie  Lacus  Nemoreruis 
of  the  poeti.  Thii  bvauiiful  little 
■■lie  oecupio,  like  that  of  Albino,  the 
wcU-duGned  crater  of  ap  eitinct  vol- 
cano, whose  iides  are  foriocit  pert!  j  of 
bualt    and    partly    of    consolidated 

fercnceand  talber  more  than  100  feet 
higlicr  than  the  surface  of  the  lake  oF 
Atbano.  The  road  which  lenda  to 
Nemi  from  Geniano,  passing  hy  the 
Cappuuini,  brings  the  Eiaieller  to  the 
Jbimtaifl  of  Egeria,  one  of  Ihe  itnums 
which  Slrabn   mentions  at  supplying 

founded  with  (be  one  of  the  same  name 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Honae. 
This  fountain,  which  so  many  poeta 
haie  celebrated  ia  cotgunction  vith 
the  late  and  temple,  is  beautifiilly 
described  by  Ovid,  wlio  represents  the 
nymph  as  so  Inconsolable  at  the  death 
of  Numa,  tbat  Diana  changed   her 


r«0M  HOME  (£ote  ofyemij- 


tlw  frand-daughtct  of  Itolwrt.  EatI  I      The  vilUse  of  Nemi.  with  a  popu- 
Fmvn,  ha.  Ulrly  »uccci-dcd  in  «.    lalioii   of  1100    souls,    is    beautiFully 
l^li^inK  an  inhnl  scbocd  at  Gmiano.    placed  on  Ilie  margin  of  the  late  im- 
\  whleh  )ai  eicitsd   considerable   in-   mediately  opi>ositc  to   Gentaiio.     Il 
il  from  the  bd  of  its  being  (he    belongs,  together  with  a  lar^  eitent 
I"  int  Hbool  of  that  description  which    of  the  neighbouring  country,  to  Princt 
W  amk  rvcr  been  calablisbeH  at  or  near    Kosprglio^,  having   passed  iulo  tliil 
~ family  in  the    Last  century  after  be- 
longing   successively     to    the    noble 
houses  of  Colonna,   Borgia,  Piccolo- 
mint,  CcBci,  Flaogipanl,  and  Brascbl 
The  old  feudal  castle  with  its  tounil 
lower  was  ehie6y  built  by  the   Co- 
lonna.    From   the   hilli    abate,  Iho 
traveller  enjoys  one   of  those   scenes 
which  cannot  h«  described :  the  eye 
wanders  over  the  vast  plains  of  ihe 
Campagnu  (rom  the  Circiean  promon- 
tory to  Portod'Anso,  the  ancienl  An- 
lium,  and  from  thence  to  the  month 
of  the  Hbcr,  comprehending  within 
this  range  the  scene  of  half  the  iEndil, 
and  of  some  of  the  grandest  events  in 
the  history  of  Rome.      The  lake  of 
Nemi  acquired  considerable  notorietf 
in  the  16th  century  from  thediscoverj 
of  a  quantity  of  timbers,  whiob  AU' 
berti,  the   celebrated   architect,  aa' 
Marchi,  the  engineer,  described  as  th 

said  to  he  £00  (eet  in  length,  and  wi 
attributed  either  to  Tiberius  or  to  To 
Jan.  The  eiistcnceof  a  vessel  of  thit 
size  on  the  lake  of  Nemi  carries  w' 
it  the  air  of  improbability  ;  and  il 
now  eiplained  by  the  researches 
ProfeSEor  Nibby,  who  carefiilly  el 
mined  the  locality.  He  found  that 
the  beams  recovered  (rom  the  Uk« 
were  ports  of  the  frame-work  of 
an  ancient  building,  of  larch 
pine,  from  which  numerous  metal 
nails  and  other  ftagments  were 
lained.      The  pavement,  Iconiistin^  of 


my  plaees  irift 


raeters.  The  tiles,  grating,  nail^and 
wme  of  Che  beams,  are  now  preserreit 
iutheVBlicanLibrBry(p.M3.>.  From 
[he  account  of  Suetonius,  wba  aaja 
1  that  CKsar  began  a  villa  at  a  Ktnk 
cost  upon  this  lake,  and  in  a  fit  o( 
\  ca^ttc£  >iii^«A.  \x  VI  tw  Qulled  doWK 


Papal  States."]    excursions  from  rome  (Co/o^ina).         575 


before  it  was  completed,  Nibby  in- 
fers that  these  fragments  were  the 
foundations  of  the  villa,  which  escaped 
destruction  by  being  under  water. 
On  the  sides  of  the  lake  are  some 
vestiges  of  ancient  buildings.  We 
have  already  stated  the  grounds  upon 
which  the  Temple  of  Diana  is  supposed 
to  have  been  situated  below  L'Aric- 
cia.  The  ciceroni,  however,  point 
out  its  ruins  near  the  lake ;  but  tra* 
Tellers  who  are  practised  in  the  ex- 
amination of  ancient  buildings  will  see 
at  once  that  they  consist  of  opus  reti' 
culatum,  which  of  course  belongs  to  a 
much  later  period  than  the  date  of 
the  temple.  The  grove  of  Diana  ex- 
tended, as  it  still  does,  over  the  sur- 
rounding country  and  ^  hills  for  many 
miles ;  and  from  its  age  and  extent  it 
was  peculiarly  fitted  for  the  wild  and 
mysterious  rites  which  seem  to  have 
been  the  counterpart  of  those  which 
marked  the  worship  of  the  goddess  in 
the  Tauric  Chersonese. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Gensano 
we  leave  the  Comarca  and  enter  the 
legation  of  Velletri.  At  the  castle 
and  bridge  of  San  Gennarello  the  road 
quits  the  Appian,  and  makes  a  detour 
of  some  miles  in  order  to  pass  through 
Velletri  before  it  again  joins  it  near 
Cisterna.  The  Appian  may  be  seen 
from  this  spot  descending  into  the 
plain  in  a  straight  line,  marked  by 
numerous  remains  of  ancient  tombs. 
From  this  and  other  parts  of  the  road 
Civita  Lavinia,  described  in  a  pre- 
ceding page,  is  a  conspicuous  object. 
Velletri  and  the  remainder  of  the 
road  to  Terracina  and  Naples,  in- 
cluding a  d&our  to  Cora  and  Norba, 
are  described  in  the  Handbook  for 
Southern  Italy, 

COLONNA. 

A  very  interesting  excursion  may 
be  made  from  Frascati  to  Col(Hma, 
and  from  Colonna  to  Palestrina  and 
Genazzano,  visiting  the  lake  of  Gabii 
on  the  return  to  Rome.  The  dis- 
tance from  Frascati  to  Colonna  is 
5  miles.  The  road  traverses  the  an- 
cient line  of  communieetton  between 


Tusculum,  Labicum,  and  Gabii. 
About  a  mile  from  Frascati,  it  passes 
near  the  singular  hexagonal  lake 
called  the  Comufettet  the  crater  of  an 
extinct  volcano,  supposed  by  Professor 
Nibby  to  be  the  true  site  of  the  lake 
Regillus,  the  scene  of  the  memorable 
battle  in  which  the  Romans,  under 
the  dictator  Posthumius  assisted  by 
Castor  and  Pollux,  defeated  the  most 
powerful  confederation  of  the  Latin 
tribes,  under  the  Tarquins  and  Mami- 
lius  the  chief  of  Tusculum.  Tlie 
position  of  this  lake  immediately  un- 
der the  hills  of  Tusculum  is  an  addi- 
tional argument  in  fiivour  of  the  lo- 
cality, which,  as  Livy  distinctly  tells 
us,  was  in  the  Tusculan  territory. 
The  lake  was  drained  in  the  17th 
century  by  the  Borghese  family,  be- 
fore which  time  it  could  not  have 
been  much  smaller  than  the  lake  of 
Gabii.  It  is  a  curious  basin,  and  its 
artificial  emissary  may  still  be  traced  ; 
but  it  is  dangerous  to  visit  it  in  sum- 
mer, as  it  swarms  with  vipers.  Be- 
yond this  the  road  skirts  the  base  of 
Monte  JPorzio,  a  village  of  1 300  souls, 
prettily  situated  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  and  supposed  to  derive  its  name 
from  a  villa  of  Cato  of  Utica,  the  site 
of  which  is  identified  with  some  ex- 
tensive ruins  visible  between  Monte 
Porzio  and  Colonna,  at  a  spot  called 
Cappellettc.  The  modem  village  was 
built  by  Gregory  XIII.,  whose  ar- 
morial bearings,  the  Buoncompagni 
dragons,  may  be  seen  over  the  princi- 
pal gateway.  The  only  object  of  in- 
terest in  the  village  b  the  church, 
built  by  Prince  Marcantonio  Bor- 
ghese, and  consecrated  by  Cardinal 
York  in  1766.  Beyond  this,  the  road 
passes  at  the  base  of  Monte  Compairi, 
another  mountain-village  belonging  to 
the  Borghese,  with  a  population  of 
2259  souls,  and  a  baronial  mansion 
occasionally  occupied  by  the  family. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  risen  from  the 
ruins  of  Tusculum  in  the  12th  century, 
but  it  contains  nothing  of  any  interest. 
Colonna  occupies  the  site  of  the  cele- 
brated Latin  city  of  Labieum,  the  co- 
lony of  Alb«* 


xxcdnnoMi  no«  HOMgfPgfcjfrftia' 


fmm 


£•.  Yll.  T93. 
The  blilory  of  tlie  ancient  citjr  pre- 
■Mt*  few  fact)  vhich  require  notice 
rapture  and  wck  by  Corio- 

r  Cicero,  'bo  deacribva  Labicum,  Bo- 
vlllii.  and  Cabii  m  >a  much  dcpapu- 
laUd  in  hii  time,  that  they  cuulJ 
toarcely  Bod  any  anv  to  itpretent 
tbvm  in  the  Feria:  Latinic.  The 
.  nodern  tillage  of  Calonna  holds  a 
L  oonapicuoui  rank  amung  tlie  towns  or 
W  the  middli  nge^^  as  ibe  place  frum 
■  iriiich  the  princely  Iiouse  of  Colonna 
I  deriTB  ill  origin.  The  first  mention 
of  tlie  bnuly  occurs  in  the  middle  or| 
the  11th  century,  when  the  Countess 
Emilia  ot  Palestrina  married  a  baron 
dncribed  aa  de  Columna.  The  history 
of  the  place  during  the  13th  and  lath 
century  would  be  a  conlinuous  record 
of  the  coDtettB  of  Il>e  Colonna  with 
tile  popes  aod  with  the  Roman  ba- 
Tons.  It  was  seised  in  1297  by  Boni- 
bce  Vllt..  and  aj^in  by  Rienii  in 
1354,  on  his  expedition  against  Patee- 
liina.  In  the  last  century,  Ibe  Co- 
loana  sold  the  property  lathe  Luduvisi, 
together  with  Zagarola  and  GaUictuio. 
Tlie  alienation  of  an  estate  from  which 
they  derived  Iheir  name,  was  an  act 
UDwortliy  the  descendants  of  the  he- 
roic Stefano  Colonna,  whom  Petrarch 
delighted  to  honour.  The  tillage  a 
DDW  in  rulna  and  almost  entirely  de- 
populated ;  Ibe  number  of  inhabitants 
aosrcely  amounting  lo  300.  At  the 
base  of  the  hill  of  Colonna  is  Ibe  an- 
nent  Via  Labicana,  now  the  high  road 
"  "  »  by  Frosinone  and  San  Ger- 
On  the  left  of  this  load,  and 
direct  line  betweEo  Colonna  and 
the  lake  of  Gabii,  is  a  small  pestilcn- 
L  tial  pool,  scarcely  a  third  of  a  mile  in 
'  *   enoe,  filling  the  crater  of  an 

olcano.  'Ilie  Roman  anti- 
9  quaries  fur  many  years  regarded  it  as 
\  ate  lake  llegillus,  although  the  ci- 
'  mof  Livjr  ''adLacum  He^tWum 


in  agro  TuieflaHo"  Xros  hardly  t< 
reconciled  with"  a  locality  betmsnt 
wbicb  and  Tusculum  the  lerritory  tt 
Labicum  interteiied.  The  imptntJ 
anee  of  tlie  battle  fought  at  the  lake 
Rcgillus  gave  considerable  interest 
the  ijucilion,  but  tlie  weight  of  et 
dence  is  decidedly  in  favDur  of  tb 
of  Comurelle  described  aboTE. 
the  tifinity  of  that  lake  to  TusouloW 
appears  to  us  to  leave  no  doubt  that  it 
is  Ibe  true  locality  of  the  battle. 


>eUU 


About  12  miles  from  Colonna  ii 
Falesltina,  the  modern  represenutiva 
of  the  bmous  city  of  Prsneste,  onetj 
the  most  ancient  Greek  cities  of  Italjf 
and  the  residence  of  a  king  longbelbi* 
the  foundation  of  Rome.  Ha  place  ii 
Ibe  nnghbourbood  of  Rome  aSbrdl 
the  traveller  so  many  eiamplea  ofths 
different  systems  of  architecture 
prevailed  in  Italy  in  the  early  p 
of  her  history.  The  ruinsof  thewellt 
and  of  tlie  other  edifices  for  *  '  '  * 
aacient  city  wai  rcmarkabte,  present 
us  with  four  distinct  epochs:  in  Ih^ 
eitormous  polygonal  i 
city  walls  we  have  a  fine  example  d 
Pclasgic  tfrcliilectnre;  intheami" 
polygonal  constructions  we  reeog 
the  period  of  the  Roman  kiog^  « 
the  Felaagic  style  was  generally  iini 
lated  in  tt         •■      ■  ■ 


ts  where  the  to 


quadrilateral  foimdatinns  we  see  thi 
style  of  the  republic  i  and  in  t 
brick-work,  known  as  the  "  opera 
terizia,"  we  hate  some  fine  speun 
of  the  empire.  The  contests  of  I 
ne«te  with  Rome,  and  its  oonqueM  b] 
Cincinnatus  and  Camillus,  are  wel 
known  to  every  reader  of  Lity ;  Pyr- 
rbus  and  Hannibal  reconnintred  tlia 
situation  of  Rome  from  ila  citadel) 
and  the  young  Cains  Mariu;s  aflerbil 
defeat  by  Sylla,  killed  himself  withil 
iU  waUs.  On  bis  return  &om  t'  " 
war  against  Mithtidate^  Sytla  i 
venged  himself  on  Pneneite  for  *  ,^ 
support  given  tu  his  rival  by  deitro;in| 
the  town  and  putting  the  inhabitant^^ 
,Ui  t.W  uKQid',  but  he  afterwarda  ii 


Papal  S;jiies,'\    excursions  from  romb  {Palestrina).        577 


built  ine  walls,  and  to  atone  for  his 
cruelties  embellished  the  Temple  of 
Fortune,  whose  magnificence  made 
the  Athenian  'philosopher,  Cameades, 
declare  that  he  had  never  seen  a  For- 
tune so  fortunate  as  that  of  Praeneste. 
Under  the  emperors  the  city  was  the 
frequent  residence  of  Augustus,  Ti- 
berius,  Nero,  Domitian,  and  Hadrian, 
who  built  there  a  magnificent  villa  of 
which  considerable  remains  are  still 
visible.  The  partiality  of  Horace  for 
Preeneste  is  well  known  :  in  bis  epistle 
to  Lollius  he  tells  him  that  he  read 
the  Iliad  during  his  residence  in  the 
city  (£p.  ii.  1-);  and  in  one  of  his 
most  beautiful  odes  he  mentions  it 
among  his  favourite  retreats,  classing 
it  with  Tibur,  Baiae,  and  his  Sabine 
fiirm: 

'*  Vcftter,  Camaene,  vester  in  arduM 
ToUor  SabincM ;  seu  mihi  frigidum 
Praeneste,  scu  Tibur  cupinum 
Seu  liquidse  nlacuere  Bais." 

Od.  HL  4. 

The  modern  name  of  Palestrina  oc- 
curs in  ecclesiastical  documents  as 
early  as  a.d.  873.  Its  whole  history 
during  the  miildle  ages  is  associated 
with  that  of  the  Colonna  family,  who 
obtained  it  in  1043  by  marriage  with 
the  Countess  Emilia,  as  mentioned. in 
the  preceding  account  of  Colonna. 
Tlie  ancient  citadel  and  its  Pclasgic 
fortifications  were  doubtless  perfect  at 
this  period,  and  contributed  to  render 
it  famous  as  the  mountain  fastness  of 
the  Colonna,  and  as  one  of  the  strong- 
holds of  the  Ghibelines.  It  would 
carry  us  too  deeply  into  the  history  of 
Rome  at  this  interesting  period,  to 
trace  the  records  of  the  Colonna 
family  during  their  memorable  strug- 
gles with  the  popes ;  but  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  city  is  so  much  associated 
with  the  pontificate  of  Boniface  VII  I., 
that  it  will  be  necessary  to  refer 
briefly  to  the  events  which  mark  his 
turbulent  career.  The  election  of 
Cardinal  Gactani  as  Boniface  VIII. 
was  opposed  by  the  two  cardinals 
Giacomo  and  Pietro  Colonna,  who 
retired  to  Palestrina  with  their  kins- 
men  Sciam  and  Agapito  Colonni^ 

Ceni.  It 


and  refused  to  admit  a  papal  garrison 
into  any  of  their  patrimonial  castles. 
The  pope  instantly  excommunicated 
them,  and  issued  a  bull  breathing  the 
most  violent  anathemas  against  the 
family,  and  oflTering  plenary  indulgence 
to  all  who  would  take  up  arms  against 
them.  He  obtained  reinforcements 
from  Florence,  Orvieto,  and  Matelica, 
and  in  1298  sent  troops  against  all  the 
towns  and  castles  of  the  family.  The 
cardinals  for  some  time  gallantly  de« 
fended  Palestrina,  but  were  at  length 
compelled  to  surrender,  and  with  their 
two  kinsmen  proceeded  to  Anagni, 
where  the  pope  was  then  residing,  and 
made  their  submission  in  full  con- 
sistory. Boniface  summoned  to  his 
councils  on  this  occasion  the  celebrated 
Guidoda  Montefeltro,  who  had  taken 
the  vows  as  a  Franciscan  in  the  great 
monastery  at  Assisi.  His  perfidious 
advice  to  **  promise  much  and  perform 
little,"  has  been  noticed  in  our  ac- 
count of  Assisi  at  p.  268,  and  has  been 
stamped  with  immortal  infamy  by 
Dante  in  a  passage  which  we  have 
there  quoted.  The  pope  acting  on 
this  treachery,  nominally  absolved  the 
Colonna  from  their  excommunication, 
and  granted  them  his  pardon,  at  the 
same  time  holding  out  the  hope  that 
they  should  be  restored  to  the  pos- 
session of  Palestrina.  Notwithstanding 
this,  he  secretly  ordered  Teodorico 
Ranieri  of  Orvieto,  bishop  of  Pisa,  to 
take  possession  of  tlie  city,  to  dis* 
mantle  the  fortifications,  and  raze  all 
the  buildings  to  their  foundations,  with 
the  exception  of  the  cathedral.  So 
rigorously  was  this  order  fulfilled,  that 
the  ancient  custom  was  observed  of 
driving  the  ploughshare  over  the  ruins 
and  sprinkling  salt  upon  the  furrows* 
The  property  of  the  inhabitants  was 
confiscated ;  they  were  all  driven  into 
the  plain,  and  there  compelled  to 
build  a  new  town  near  the  church  of 
the  Madonna  dell*  Aquila.  After 
these  disasters  the  Colonna  family 
were  hunted  out  of  Italy,  and  the 
narratives  of  their  wanderings  given 
by  the  contemporary  chronicles  sup- 
ply a  curious  parallel  ^\\!d  \!ea  VCveNnr^ 


I 


of  our  own  noble  Iioukf  of  Cauneoiy. 
Sttftao  Colannn,  wliQ  it  dcMrilied  by 
Pvtrareli  «»  "»  pbienii  ipning  from 
tbc  ailia  of  ihe  ancimt  RoRiani."  u 
be  fled  ftiiin  Home  >ftet  the  loo 
of  vll  hii  pos&puionf,  wu  otkcd  bv 
one  of  hU  ■(inidBni^  •'  What  forlre^ 
have  TOu  now  ?  '  He  pUwd  hU  hand 
DO  bu  heart,  and  replied,  wilh  a 
amile,  **  Eetnia  f  '*  Tbc  cardiuala  e«* 
«aped  lo  Fnnce ;  Sciatr*  Colann* 
iii  by  tea,  wai  csplurrd  by  piratn, 
■nd  aRer  a  teiiet  of  romaDiic  adven- 
tutea  returned  to  Home  at  Ihe  time 
when  the  pope  vas  involred  in  bii ' 
quarrel  with  fhilip  le  Bel.  Sciarraj 
iwMiitl}  joined  the  French  part;,  and  , 
avenged  the  injuries  inHicled  on  bis 
Cuiily  bj  the  memorable  capture  of  ^ 
Bonifter  at  Anogiii,  vhich  Diniv  ba.s 
■bo commemoiated  (Hand-Book  for 
Soutbem  Italy).  On  the  diiatb  of 
pope  Bonibec  fhim  the  eonwqiiciieu 
oT  tbn  indignilj,  his  luccn&or, 
Benedict  XI.,  abtolved  tbe  Colonna 
bmilf  froni  Ibeir  eicommunifsiiiDn, 
btit  IbrtMde  the  rebuilding  of  Pale«- 
tnrvk  Tfaia  rutridion  wa»  remored 
by  Clemen!  V.,  and  iu  1 307  Ihe  city 
b^an  to  rise  from  its  ruins  under 
Slelaoa  Colonna.  It  procecdrd  u 
rapidly,  thai  when  Henry  of  Luiem- 
bourg,  emperor  of  Ccrmanj,  came  to 
Rome  to  be  crowned  in  1311.  Pal«- 
trina  wai  ready  (o  rcceire  bim  and 
tbc  other  Ghibcllne  cbie&,  if  the 
Guelph  party,  headed  by  tbe  Oruni, 
had  oOered  any  elfectual  oppoiilion. 
It  was  aba  regarded  oi  the  hcul. 
qiurleri  of  Louia  of  Bataria,  al  his 

MtnplHed  Ihe  castle  in  ISna,  as  ve\ 
Nad  by  tbe  inicriptian.  ttill  legible  on 
in  f(Bte.  In  ia»  thii  illuxrioui, 
BBptain  tuecestfully  defended  Pales- , 
lapini-    "        ■       ' 


besieged  and  captured  it  io  H9G. 
the  following  year  he  nod  it  na 
to  Ihe  gminid.  and  fur  forty 
nuouc  dajrs  bid  waiie  tbe  loarn  wil 
lire  and  «wonl,  iparing   neither  l~ 
churcbei  nor  the  coii*enti.     Is  14 
lie    Romans  completed  tbc  tqA 


ind. 


and  in  1 


round  tlie  old  bamiial  palm 
olonna  rebuill  I 
city.  an<^ surrounded  il  with  tbc  ■« 
and  loweri  which  we  ttill  ee*.  T 
last  historicid  bet  which  we  tbaD  I 
lice,  is  the  sale  of  the  city  by  Vtt 
cesro  Colonna  lo  Carlo  Bartwci 
brotberof  Urban  VII  I.  iu  \B$tk,  I 
tbe  sum  of  775.000  KudL 

Ai   the  prewnt  lime  PalrstroM 
nn  cpiwDpsI  town  of  4G0O  HHiU. 
has  a  small  imi,  in  which  the  IibtvH 
may  be  tolerably   accomi 
piving  naticc  of  hit 


Thci 


luiit  ci 


eflyo, 


tber  (am  altnnpt  to  sci 

Ibt  brtrcB  remained 

ntnry  nnmg  eooufth 


a/Iwdlfaei 


ajlied  Ihemselvei  with  Braccio  Fo 
braocio  and   PJcctnino  i;^  ?«Tuitv 
1494,  the  unseruputoua  CndinaWV'' 
.  Brllasvhi,  the  legate  ot  Kugciv^ia  IN  ■' 


•f  Fdni»«k  at 
foot  of  the  commanding  bill  on  «t 
tbe  citadel  wu  placed.  It  eooU 
no  modem  building  of  any  iniar 
ricept  tbe  deserted  Barhtrimi  Al 
of  the  tSth  c 
Ckwrtk  o/  S.   J 


;  tombs  of  Ihe 

,  &milies.      The  ancient  temple  m 

bare  been   of  irnmeiue  eitent,  if 

may  judge  from  tl         ' 
I  and  from  Ihe  fite 

stood.       One    of 
,  llipiano  della  Corlina,  is  ocen|Hed 

posed  to  be  built  on  the 
of  Ihe  bemieyclc.  Tbe  m 
able  objecls  in  this  pali 
fngmenis  of  intcriplioiD  and 

eelebtsted  m 
one  of  the  semiciriuUr  nich«»  at 
lemplc.  well  known  atlhiii*UiM 
of    Paleatrina. "       It    was   ao   hu 


Papai  States."]   excursions  from  rome  (Palestrina).        579 


move  it  to  its  present  position.  There 
is  scarcely  any  relic  of  ancient  art 
which  has  been  so  much  the  subject 
of  antiquarian  controversy.  Father 
Kircher  considered  its  subject  to  ex- 
press the  vicissitudes  of  fortune ;  Car- 
dinal Polignac  thought  it  represented 
the  voyage  of  Alexander  to  the  oracle 
of  Jupiter  Amraon ;  Cecconi  and 
Volpi  supposed  that  it  illustrated  the 
history  of  Sylla ;  Montfau^on  re- 
garded it  as  a  representation  of  the 
course  of  the  Nile  ;  Winckelmann  as 
the  meeting  of  Helen  and  Menelaus 
in  Egypt ;  Chaupy  as  the  embarka- 
tion of  Egyptian  grain  for  Rome; 
the  Abbe  ]3arth6Iemy  as  the  voyage 
of  Hadrian  to  Elephantina ;  and  the 
Abb^  Fea  as  the  conquest  of  Egypt 
from  Cleopatra  and  Antony  by  Au- 
gustus. There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  subject  is  Egyptian,  and  it  is  now 
generally  con!>iaered  to  represent  a 
popular  fete  at  the  inundation  of  the  | 
Nile.  The  names  of  the  animals  are 
given  in  Greek  characters:  among 
these  we  recognise  the  rhinoceros, 
the  sphinx,  the  crocodile,  the  giraffe 
(camelopardalis),  the  lioness  the  li- 
zard, the  lynx,  the  bear,  the  tiger,  &c. 
The  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Fortune, 
restored  by  Sylla,  arc  very  interest- 
ing but  appear  in  a  great  measure  to 
belong  to  imperial  times,  'ilic  fame 
of  this  shrine  is  well  known  from  the 
description  of  Cicero,  who  gives  a 
curious  account  of  the  institution  of 
the  "  Sortes  Pranestinae."  (De  Di- 
vin.  ii.)  Four  half  columns  of  the 
Corinthian  order  are  still  visible  in 
the  Piazza  Tonda,  near  the  cathedral, 
and  three  others  may  be  seen  in  the 
wall  of  the  chapel  of  the  cemetery. 
The  semicircular  temple,  the  aeene  of 
the  Sortes  Pranestinae,  is  supposed  to 
be  partly  covered  by  the  Darl>erini 
palace.  A  visit  to  the  ancient  citadel 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill  will  repay 
the  traveller  more  than  the  examina- 
tion of  these  ruins.  A  good  bridle- 
road  has  been  constructed*  for  which 
travellers  may  procure  donkeys  at  the 
inn.  The  view  commanded  during 
the  ascent  is  alone  sufficient  to  repay 


the  trouble.  As  we  advance  we  pass 
enormous  masses  of  the  Pelasgic 
walls  which  united  the  ancient  citadel 
or  Arx  with  the  town  below.  These 
walls  afford  a  magnificent  example  of 
this  style  of  construction,  and  may  be 
traced  on  both  sides  of  the  ascent, 
nearly  throughout  their  entire.course. 
The  citadel  is  now  called  Monte  San 
Pietro,  from  a  tradition  that  it  was 
for  some  time  the  residence  of  the 
apostle :  it  contains  a  few  poor  houses 
which  have  arisen  among  the  ruins  of 
the  town  erected  by  the  Colonna. 
The  old  fortress  of  the  family,  al- 
though in  ruins,  still  preserves  many 
memorials  of  the  middle  ages.  Over 
the  principal  gateway  is  the  well- 
known  armorial  column  with  the  let- 
ters S.  C,  the  initials  of  Stefano 
Colonna,  who  rebuilt  the  town  and 
castle  in  1332,  as  we  see  by  the  fo]« 
lowing  inscription,  in  Gothic  charac- 
ters,   still    legible  :  —  maonificus     . 

DNS.    STEFAN.   DE  COLUMN  A  REUIFICAVIT 
CIVITATEM     raXNESTE     CU.     AIONTE      ET 

ARCE  .  ANNO  1332.  The  church,  de- 
dicated to  St.  Peter,  was  built  in  the 
17th  century,  on  the  site  of  one  exist- 
ing in  the  time  of  Gregory  the  Great, 
and  restored  in  the  pontificate  of  Cle- 
ment XII.  (1730.)  It  contains  a 
picture  of  the  Saviour  delivering  his 
charge  to  St.  Peter,  by  Pietro  da 
Cortona ;  a  statue  of  the  apostle,  by 
the  school  of  Bernini ;  and  a  pedestal, 
now  used  for  the  holy  water,  on  which 
we  read  an  ancient  inscription  to  Pub- 
lius  ^lius  Tiro,  commander  of  the 
German  cavalry  in  the  time  of  Corn- 
modus^  The  view  from  this  com- 
manding eminence  can  hardly  be 
surpassed  in  this  district  of  beautiful 
panoramas,  and  the  traveller  who 
enjoys  it  cannot  be  surprised  that 
Pyrrhus  and  Hannibal  ascended  the 
hill  to  reconnoitre  the  localities  of 
Rome.  At  the  extremity  of  the  plain 
is  the  capital,  with  the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's  rising  prominently  above  all 
the  other  buildings;  in  the  middle 
distance  we  see  the  lake  of  Gabii^and 
the  Anio  winding  along  the  plain 
from  the  hills  of  Tivoli  to  its  lunctioa 

0  0% 


I 


5S0  EscuRSiOKs  PHOM  HOME  (Cm-i).  [»« 

•with   the   Tiber  briav  ihe  heii^bti  of   Schal*    FalutSnUDa  i  but    it    b 
uicicnt    Anlemns.      JmmediUel;  in  .  coasiJeml  to  be  t  ebmtua  ehiu 
trODX  Ire  iht  villi;^  nnd  Tovns  clu«-  '  the  lib  or  jtb  crnturj.      lo  all 
tervd  on   the  autei'  crater  of  the  Al-    of  the  eoiuitry   bnmedjateijr 
baa  mount,  promineat  among  which    the    lovei  toim  are  nunw 
■re   Velletri,  alinoit  in  •  direct  line    Mul  Iraca  of  (bundatioTB,  tl 
with     the    classical    Algidus,    Rocra   prxfbabljr  of  patrician  f ILlai 
Priore,  Monte  Compatri,  and  Monte   d«criplion    of  their   impei 
Farno :  al  the  fuot  of  thi«  range  are   menti  would  bare  little  int 
Coloana  and    Fnscati.  while    in   the  [  would     invotte     many     ai 
centre  of  the  enter,  towering  aboTe  ^  Ibeorie*  wliicb  it  would  be 
■11   Ihe   rest,  is   seen  ibe  lutntnii  of  luk    to    attempt  lo    recoDcile^ 
Uoole   Pita,  conceiding  Monte  Ca>i^  traveller  will  be  more  gratified 
from   our  tiew.      On  the  left  ii  Ihc    Ihe  ciaminalioti  of  the  fiiw  ~ 
ricb  Talley  of  the  Sacco,  in  which  we  '  of  the  ancient  road  wbtcb 
ren^nite    Valmontone.    Monte    For-  '  Ibe  Via  Prsnestina  wiih  th 
tino  (the  site  of  the  Volscian  city  of  hicana:  it  i«  pared  with  mr 
Artena),  Colle  Fcrro,  Segni,  Anagui,    gond  blocks  of  Ian,   and  h 
FaUano,    CeniuuDO,   and    Cati  :  on    feet  for  a  eonudeiahle  distai 
the  right,  among  the  bills  of  which  j       From  Falesti-I 
Faleslrina    forms   a    part,    are    Poli.    eursion  may  be  mane  to  ^ari,  t>^ 
Monte   Affliano  (the  site  of  £^ula),'iiina,    Olesano.    and    Paliano. 
•nd   tbe   heights  of  TirolL      Irnme- 1  Olenno  and  Paliaao  the  tmcntrl 
diitelf  behind  the  citwhl  art  Rom  '  befurc  him  tbe  cboice  of  two  tte 
tU  Caii,  and  Capranica.      Among  ihc  lions  each   of  great    beauty;   \m  \ 
>nti<)niliei  tliicovered  at    Palntrina,   firit.  be  miiy  proceed  from  CHc  iimt 
*■  may  incniioa  Ihe  fragmeati  of  the    Subiaco(p.  553.),  and  return  la  Sa 
Futi  of  Verriua  Flaecnt,  menlioned  ,  by  'nvQli,  riniting  on  his  way  tlwi 
by  Suetonius,  finiad  here  in  1TT3  hy    of  Horace's  Sabine  lirm,  and 
(Ordinal  Stoppani,  and  well  Icnoirn  to    ing    Monle     Genarti  —  the    i 
•eboUnby  the  learned  illuiIralloaiorLucRtilii  (p.  554.);    in  the 
PrnteBor  Nibbf .      They  are  now  pre-    from    Paliano  be  may  t 
nrred  in  the  Vidoni  palace  (p.  J18.}.    Ferealino,  Scgni.  nnd  th 
About  a  mile  from  tbe  lower  town    of  Ihe  Sacco  dnciibvd  in 
mn  tbe  immense  ruins  of  the  Villa    Book  for  Southern  Italy, 
built  by   Hadrian,  and    enlarged  by  |  eileud  his   tour  lo   the        -„--- 
Anbminua   Fiui :  they  give  nnmc  to    Pelugie  fbtlrFsses  of  AUlri  and 
Ih*  church  of  S.   Maria  ddia    I7Ui,   pino.  on  the  Neapolil 
mud  eoier  tbe  surface  for  nearly  three- ,  return  lo  Rome  by    i 
quarten  of  a  mile.    The  style  of  their  '  and  Albano. 

to  that  of  Hutrlin'i  villa  al  Tooti': '  diitlaut    3   miles  frotii 

tbe  eelebnted  colossal  statue  of  An-  ,  town  of  about  3000  souls,  Gnrij  , 

tinoiu,   now    in    the    BraKhi    paUce   on  a   lufa  rock  on  Ibeslapeaof 

(p.  504,),  was  discovered  in  Ihe  ruins.  |  Monte  di  Menlorelta,  one  ofdw' 

On  the  road  to  Ca»i,  a  mile  beyond    plelumquc  pl«c       *-    -■■     • 

the  Porta  del  Sole,  we  cros  Ihe  Fouo  j  district.      The   i 

di  Palestiina  by  the  Ponle  dello  Spc- !  was  probably  the 

dahuok   near  which    is   an    octagonal    lion  between  Ps^  

tdIh  bearing  a  remarkable  analogy  lo    in  many  parts  the    polvgonal 
that  of   the    so-called    Tempio  della    mcnt  is  quite  perfect.   '  In  pnrauia 
Tone  al  Tlvotl  (p  .519.).     Tbe  older   this  road  we  tnTcrz  the  bude-M 
■ntiqimriesdescribcd  it  aaa  Sew^on,  on  wVvAiC  ft.i^uiUus'" 
M   ■   Temple  of  tbe  Sun,  and  aa  ttie'  ««  tteTOw\.  ».c.  Wl 


papal  States.']    excursions  from  b,ow&  {Genazzano,)      581 


Ponte  dello  Spedalato,  mentioned 
above ;  and  near  Cavi  pass  the  fine 
modern  bridge  of  seven  arches,  built 
in  1827  over  a  deep  torrent,  one  of 
the  tributaries  of  the  Sacco.  The 
town  was  built  by  the  Colonna,  who 
held  it  as  early  as  the  1 1th  century : 
it  was  one  of  the  dependencies  of  Pa- 
lestrina,  and  shared  its  fortunes.  It 
is  memorable  for  the  treaty  of  peace 
signed  there  in  1557,  in  the  Casa 
Leoncelli,  between  the  Duke  of  Alba 
and  the  Caraffeschi.  Above  Cavi  is 
Roeca  di  Cavu  3  miles  distant,  situated 
on  the  summit  of  a  commanding  hill. 
It  is  a  small  mountain- village  of  500 
souls,  and  has  been  in  the  possession 
of  the  Colonna  family  since  the  1 3th 
century.  The  road  from  Cavi  to  Pa- 
liano  is  good,  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  this  district.  A  steep  de- 
scent on  leaving  Cavi  brings  us  into 
the  valley,  whence  the  road  again 
ascends  to  the  church  of  S.  Giacomo 
and  S.  Anna,  finely  situated  on  a  hill 
overlooking  the  plain  of  the  Sacco. 
Beyond  it  a  road  on  the  left  hand, 
through  the  Olmata,  leadh  to  Geuaz- 
sano^  a  mile  distant  from  the  road. 

Gevazzako, 

about  4  miles  from  Cavi,  a  highly 
picturesque  but  dilapidated  town  of 
2400  souls,  built  on  the  slopes  oi  a 
steep  hill  above  the  Rivotano  torrent, 
and  surmounted  by  a  baronial  castle 
which  is  cut  off  from  the  hill  and  pro- 
tected by  a  drawbridge.  It  derives 
its  name  firom  the  ancient  Roman  fa- 
mily of  Genucia,  the  ruins  of  whose 
villa  are  still  visible.  It  passed  to 
the  Colonna  at  the  same  time  as  Pa^ 
lestrina  and  Colonna,  and  was  for 
many  centuries  the  fortress  of  a  branch 
of  their  family.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  the  birthplace  of  Martin  V., 
who  received  there  the  ambassadors 
of  the  Count  de  Armagnac.  It  is 
also  remarkable  for  the  treacherous 
murder  of  his  kinsman  Stefano  Co- 
lonna in  1433.  In  the  following  year 
it  was  occupied  by  Fortebraccio, 
during  hit  attack  on  Rome.  In  1461, 
Pius  II.  resided  there  for  lome  time, 


and  in  1557  it  was  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Duke  of  Alba  prior  to  the 
treaty  of  Cavi.  It  is  now  remark- 
able only  for  the  beauty  of  its  posi- 
tion, and  for  the  rich  chapel  of  the 
Madonna  di  Buon  Consiglio,  one  of 
the  most  famous  shrines  in  this  part 
of  Italy.  At  the  festa  of  the  Madonna 
the  peasantry  assemble  from  all  parts 
of  the  surrounding  hills,  and  from  the 
Neapolitan  frontier ;  and  there  is  pro- 
bably no  place  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Rome  in  which  the  artist  could 
find  so  many  subjects  for  his  pencil, 
as  at  the  Festa  of  Genazzano. 

Olkvamo, 

6  miles  from  Genazzano,  another  pic« 
turesque  town  of  3000  souls,  built  on 
a  rocky  hill  at  the  foot  of  Monte  del 
Corso,  in  the  midst  of  the  most  ro- 
mantic scenery,  which  has  been  for 
ages  the  study  of  the  landscape  pain- 
ters of  Rome,  who  reside  there  in  sum- 
mer for  weeks  together.  It  is  entirely 
a  town  of  the  middle  ages  ;  it  derived 
its  name  from  the  appropriation   of 
its  revenues  to  provide  the  churches, 
on  which  its  territory  depended,  with 
incense,  called  in  low  Latin  Olibanum, 
In  the  1 2th  century  it  was  the  ba- 
ronial castle  of  the   Frangipani,  who 
subsequently   exchanged   it   for    the 
castle  of  Tivera,  near  Velletri,  when 
Olevano  became  the  property  of  the 
Benedictine   monastery   of   Subiaco. 
In  the   13th  century  it  passed  to  the 
Colonna,  who  held  it  till  the  17th 
century,  when  they   sold  it   to  the 
Borghese,  who  still  possess  it,  with 
the  title  of  marquis.     The  approach 
to  Olevano  from  the  side  of  Subiaco 
is  extremely  fine :  the  old  baronial 
castle  of  the  1  Sth  century  built  by 
the   Colonna  on  a  massive   rock   of 
Apennine  limestone,  is  seen  to  great 
advantage  ;  and  the  insulated  hill  of 
Paliano,  with  the  distant  chain  of  the 
Volscian  mountains,  combine  to  form 
one   of  the  most  beautiful  scenes  in 
Italy.     In  the  Piazza  Maggiore  is  a 
fountain  with  a  mutilated  inscription 
recording  the  formation  of  an  acvuedui^ 
by  Plu*  Vl.*  wt^  \Vfc  \«8»\ot^^«^>»'     I 


favc  of  hii  counl 
local  pstrioiUni 


7  1 


ight  be  tA- 
TUiiageoiBif  loiioweo  ir  manji  of  the 
Ur)^  eapiul*.  Tbe  church,  dnJioaled 
mSm.  tlarehniu.isDncDflliefinRil 
tsUdiop  in  Ibc  tovD.     On  the  cut 

fills,  in  vhich   oumcruua   Fcag- 

:•   uf  mitrblc  and  a  insrMe  utn 

HXh  bmt-ttWef',  now  prcwned  in  Iht 

■'iMlc  of  tba  Colonna  m  Genauana 

\  rough  but  in- 

n^  and  Tery  beautiful  path  cul 

:  tolranie  lufk  ni  far  m  Rnjale, 

uugh  ihitTillagennd  Affile,  lliifait, 

■  inountsia-vxllafe  of  7^0  ionia,  ap- 
pniR>  (Vonf  nme  remnini  of  wall) 
built  of  lai^e  rectangular  blocki,  u 
aeciiprtha  site  of  an  ancient  city. 
^ffli  ii  raeDtioncd  by  Pliny,  and  iti 
antiquity  U  confirmed  by  numerou! 
inieriptiuiu  and  marUefragmenlidiH- 
eovered  in  ita  neighbourhood,  which 

■  re  preierred  in  the  walli  of  tli( 
chiircbe*  ind  other  buildingn.  Affile 
ii  frequently  mentioned  In  eccleria 
tical  documenta  of  the  middle  ages  i 
one  of  tlie  teinpiiral  posBcssioni  of  th 
monulery  of  Suhbco.  The  disUnc 
IVoin  OlcTano  to  Rojate  is  4  mile 
from  Rojate  to  Affile  5  miie%  froi 
Affile  to  Subiaco5i  miles;   the  roa 


the  RortMn barons.  It  n-asoneof  Ihs 
cirongholds  of  the  Counts  of  Se^i, 
uuiil  the  pontificate  orMoriinV., whs 
eouftrred  it  on  hia  nephewa  AnlonKi 
and  Odoardo  Colon  na.  It  is  eelrbnlrd 
by  the  con  temporary  chroniclers  fiir 
ita  defence  by  Prospero  Colonn 
againM  Siilua  IV.,  when  Prospero 
fearing  treachery  on  thu  part  of  tbe 
inhabitants,  seized  the  chtldien  of  the 
principal  cltiienB  and  sent  them  10 
Cenaiuno  as  hostnges.  It  remahiad 
in  their  family  until  1556,  when  Paul 
IV.  in  his  quarrel  with  Marc  Anloski 
Colonna,  deprived  htm  of  his  feudil 
posscwinna,  and  conferred  Palianoon 
hi*  nephew  Giovanni  CarslTa,  Ebc 
baron  who  wo*  afterwards  beheaded 
by  Fiu!  IV.  With  this  dimation, 
Paul  IV.  iBi<ed  Palisno  to  the  nnk 
of  a  duchy.  The  fortifications,  wbipli 
now  fbnn  the  cbivf  feature  of  the 
town,  were  bailt  by  thcCaratTa  fimily, 
and  were  so  perfectly  impregnable  by 
(he  warfere  of  that  lime,  that  Pallano 
became  a  position  of  some  consequence 
m  a  frontier-rorltuii  agalint  Na^ES. 
Afler  the  memoiable  •ictory  of  WtM 
Antonio  Colonna  II.   oier  tbe  l\irb 

slated  io  their  baronial  properly,  and 
have  ever  since  held  Pallano  undl» 
urbed.      A  tolerable  road  leoih  from 


between  the  latter  places  is  very  roueh. 

fell  into  the  road  to  Naples,  by  Feren- 

and  the  eicupsion  can  hardly  bo  per- 

tino  and  Frosinone. 

furmed  in  less  than  four  hours. 

ZAQAaOLO. 

Pit-TAKO, 

Travellerswhohavevibiled  Colonna 

H  miles  from  Ciyi  by  the  direct  road. 

(p.  575.)  on  their  road  to  Palcstrina, 

should  return  by  Zagarolo  and  the  lake 

tilnaled  on  an  insulated  rocky  hill,  in 

of  Cabii.     Z-Birah  is  6  miles  from 

the  territory  of  the  ancient  Hemici, 

Paleslrina,  about  1 9  miles  fmm  RotM 

by  the  ancient  Via  Pricnestina,  and 

the  entrance  of  the  .ailey  of  the  Sacco. 

about  1  ralle  from  the  modem  road  to 

Indeed   it  is   rather  a  fortress  than  a 

Naples,  which  fallows  the  Via  Labi- 

to*n,  for  it   is  strongly  fortified  by 

cana.    It  is  a  small  town  of  3600  aoula. 

towers  and  bastions  of  the  ]6Ih  cen- 

situated on  the  summit  of  a  long  neck 

tury,  and  it   has  only  one  approach 

of  land,  almost  insulated  in  the  plain 

by  means  of  a  drawbridge.      Tlie  po. 

midway  between  Palestrina  and  Co- 

pulation is  3fi00.      Paiiano  appears  to 

lonna.    It  is  the  ftudal  property  of  the 

have  risen  in  the  loth   century,  from 

Rmpiglio,»i  6mily,  on  whom  it  confers 

"hich  time  Ju  natural  strength  lande 

the  title  of  duke.      The  town  tonsirta 

.^ii  /niporlaiit  post  in  the  contents  oT 

o^  one  trio's  i.«tt*\  v,™\i  :i  mile  in 

Papal  Stales,']    excursions  from  rome  (Cr^^ft). 


583 


length,  and  from  the  numerous  anti- 
quities discovered  on  the  hill  is  sup- 
posed to  occupy  the  site  of  an  imperial 
villa.  One  of  these  antiquities,  a  sittiiiff 
statue  of  Jupiter  with  the  eagle  and 
thunderbolts,  is  placed  over  the  Roman 
gate.  Many  of  the  houses  are  as 
old  as  the  ISth  century;  the  churches 
and  piazze  are  decorated  with  marble 
columns  and  inscriptions  found  upon 
the  spot.  Zagarolo  was  a  place  of 
some  interest  in  the  history  of  the 
middle  ages.  In  the  12th  century 
it  belonged  to  the  Colonna :  in  the 
contest  of  Boniface  VIII.  with  that 
family  it  was  destroyed  by  the  papal 
party,  and  restored  by  the  Colonna  on 
their  recoverv  of  Palestrina.  It  was 
besieged  and  captured  by  Cardinal 
Vitelleschi  in  the  pontificate  of  Euge- 
nius  IV.,  after  a  siege  of  three  months, 
and  partly  destroyed.  In  1 586  Sixtus 
V.  resided  there  to  watch  the  progress 
of  hu  new  aqueduct,  called  the  Acqua 
Felice  (p.  366. ).  It  became  more  me- 
morable under  Gregory  XIV.  as  the 
scene  of  the  celebrated  conference  of 
theologians  who  were  commissioned  by 
that  pontiff  to  revise  the  edition  of  the 
Bible  now  known  as  the  Vulgate.  An 
inscription  in  the  palace  records  this 
interesting  (kct,  and  gives  the  names 
of  the  prelates.  In  the  17th  cen- 
tury it  became  the  property  of  the 
Rospigliosi,  in  whose  fine  baronial 
palace  Charles  III.  lodged  in  1734 
on  his  march  to  Naples.  The  palace, 
situated  in  the  middle  of  the  town, 
commands  on  one  side  an  eitenslve 
view  of  the  Campagna. 

Gabii, 

7  miles  from  Zagarolo,  and  12  miles 
from  Rome.  In  visiting  the  site  of 
this  celebrated  city  from  Rome,  we 
leave  the  city  by  the  Porta  Maggiore 
(p.  302.).  We  have  here  the  choice 
of  two  roads :  one  is  the  ancient  Via 
Gabina  or  Prnnestina ;  the  other  is  the 
Via  Labicana  as  far  as  Finocchio,  where 
a  branch  road  passing  by  the  Torre  di 
S.  Antonio,  a  ruined  tower  of  the 
12th  century,  joins  the  Via  Gabina 
near  the  Osteria  deU*  Osa.    Following 


the  Via  Gabina,  at  the  distance  of  2 
miles  from  the  Porta  Maggiore,  we 
pass  the  Acque  BcUicante^  the  supposed 
limits  of  the  territory  of  ancient  Rome^ 
where  the  Arvales  sang  their  well- 
known  hymn.  About  a  mile  and  a  half 
beyond  this  we  pass  the  Torre  di 
Schiavi,  the  site  of  the  villa  of  the 
emperor  Gordian,  of  which  a  large 
reservoir  and  other  ruins  are  still  vi- 
sible. The  road  for  many  miles  is 
lined  with  tombs  on  each  side,  and  still 
retains  its  ancient  pavement,  composed 
of  large  polygonal  blocks  of  lava.  Be- 
yond the  Torre  di  Schiavi  we  pass  the 
Torre  Tre  Teste,  and  at  the  distance 
of  8  miles  from  Rome  cross  a  deep  ra- 
vine by  the  Ponte  di  Noho,  an  ancient 
bridge  in  a  remarkable  state  of  preser- 
vation. It  is  so  flat  that  it  frequently 
escapes  the  notice  of  travellers,  but  it 
is  a  noble  structure  and  well  worthy  of 
being  examined.  On  descending  into 
the  ravine,  we  see  seven  lofty  arches 
constructed  with  g^eat  solidity  in  hori- 
zontal courses  of  quadrilateral  stones^ 
perfectly  Etruscan  in  their  style.  Th« 
pavement  and  part  of  the  ancient  pa- 
rapet are  also  still  preserved.  Beyond 
this  we  arrive  at  the  Osteria  dell*  Osa* . 
on  the  bank  of  the  little  stream  of  that 
name.  In  proceeding  from  the  osteria 
to  the  ruins,  we  traverse  the  spot  where 
the  subterranean  noises  on  the  passage 
of  horses  or  a  carriage  over  the  hollow 
ground,  are  still  heard  as  described  by 
Pliny :  **  qvadam  vero  terra  ad  greetua 
tremuntt  sicut  in  Gabinetui  apro  mm 
proevl  urbe  Roma  jugeraferme  dueenta 
eqvitantiwn  cursu.**  We  pass  in  firont 
of  the  Osteria  di  Pantano,  cross  the 
emissary  of  the  lake  near  an  ancient 
tomb,  and  immediately  arrive  at  the 
ruins  of  Gabii,  marked  by  the  modem 
village  of  Ccutiglione.  The  site  of  this 
ancient  city  was  fully  ascertained  by 
Prince  Marcantonio  Borghese  in  1792, 
when  many  of  the  valuable  sculptures 
now  in  the  Louvre  were  discovered.  It 
is  supposed  that  Castifflione  occupies 
the  nte  of  the  ancient  citadel,  and  that 
the  city  extended  firom  Pantano  along 
the  ridge  above  the  eastern  side  of  the 
lake,  the  highest  portion  of  the  U^  oC 


{ 


!l^lill 


■Xo(j«noiia  now  atm*X€Mblfy 

iWtary  of  GkIi 

1,  GatHcwque  peCuh 


wrfl  kno-n  lo  m)t.'i« 

will  be  iiiScienl  lo  •Wte 

lli-liKruor 

OrKkufigia;  ihU  il  i* 

fclebnled  by 

the  Ramon  hUtufuns  a> 

tbe  pWe  lo 

■  hich  Bomulii.  incl  R.^mus  wei..  «.nl 

^  Imtd  the  Greek  Ung 

I4(B  ;   th.1  It 

fcobt«n«db}T>rr|mn 

lus  Soperbgi 

Sellimuid 

KquraUy  Ml  under 

(he  power  of 

.    IitraxBub- 

,r«.  of  SyWn. 

Ei  IlarMn  dwHlMi 

»  depopu- 

Cutiglione  nrid  the  lake  i 

(>f  an  dntieot  cbureh  dedi- 

5.   Primitivo    in   Iho  llth 

if  I  century,  wilh  some  remnras  of  poiot- 

the  tribune.     On  Ihe  right  at 


e  tOl 


eckoflindleadli 


o  CKtiglioI 


■m  irhich  bulb  ancient  and  inodern 
sRie  have  derived  Iheir  supply  of  the 
Icanic  itnne  »  aftea  menlioned  H 
e  gabiiu,  and  of  vhjch  the  earlier 


iiglione  re 
«e  walla  , 


■r  of  il 


,    built    • 

■  J      I,       ^  -        .'  waLLi  of  Unbu.      A  niie  fragment  of 
ace  considerable  reiDBins  ur     ,  „  _i     r  i 

I    w>ll<L   .rr-.noi.d    in  naral    '.  """*  **"'■   «""?'««'  "'    rectangular 
■^!.  „..*"!tl^r...:_  ^m. '  lil«t,  five  or  ni  eoursea  deep,  may  be 


Tile  LahL  of  GnUt  is  tbe  crater  rfan 
ilinci  Tolesno.  FrofeBSor  Nibby  te- 
larki  the  lingular&cl,  that  thougfa  the 
ly  is  noticed  by  all  the  claadeal 
rllen,  no  mention  of  the  lake  ocean 
ntil  the  5th  century,  when  it  is  fLnnd 
I  some  of  the  eceleaiasticol  dociuneati 
I  the  Vatican  relating  to  the  martyr^ 
Dm  of  &  Primitivo,  who  was  Iw- 
sbodytbrowo 


can  style :  many  of  then  blocks  ate 
four  feet  long  and  two  feet  high^  The 
interior  nf  the  ccUn,  neatly  fifty  feel  in 
length,  atitl  retains  its  ancient  pnie- 

rium  sii  fi*l  deep.  Close  to  this  in- 
tereatiug  ruin  are  sotne  fragments  of 
fluted  columni  of  gabina  in  the  Ionic 
(tyle,  on  which  the  slucoo  coating  is 
still  visible.  Near  this  are  the  ruins 
oF  the  Greek  Ihentre,  with  remaioa  of 
a  few  seals  constructed  entirely  nf  ga* 
hina.  Near  the  OsteriadiPantatio  are 
some  vestiges  of  the  aqueduct  con- 
strui-ted  by  Hadrian.  'Riere  are  no 
remains  of  tbe  baths  which  were  eele- 


lake.      In 


e  ath  c 


In  tbe  [4th  century,  after  tbe  building 
of  Castlglione,  it  look  the  name  of  that 
village.  The  whole  property  formerir 
belonged  to  the  Coionna.  »bo  sold  ft 
in  1611  to  Cardinal  Scipio  Ba^hese, 
in  whose  bmiiy  it  has  since  remained. 
The  lake  was  drained  a  few  yeara  ago 
by  Prince  Borghcse,  who  has  converted 
il  from  the  state  of  a  pestilential  manh 
into  a  district  of  great  fertility. 

About  half  a  mile  from  Gabii,  lower 
down  (he  valley  of  the  Om,  il  Qatil 
tT  Ota,  formerly  supposed  to  he  the  i 
of  the  Alban  city  of  Collatie,  wh 
gaxQ  name  to  one  of  the  gates  of  Ilonie, 


Prrpal  Slates.']     exccrsiokg  from  Rome  ^Veii),  585 

»nd  beoiime  celebrstcd  u  the  seeat  of  is  retnarkable  for  Iheslicnnd  imposing 

llie   death   of  Luirclit       The   walk      ■- "-        '- 

through    thia   prelly   yalley   is  Tory 
agreesblG,  and  the  traveller  ihould  ei- 


lejui 


.nofth 


where  be  mii]f  eiplore 


s  beiutirully  situated  above 
eam^  and  is  more  likely  to 
lite  of   CoUatia  tliao   Cartel 


t  12  miles  from   Rome,  close  t 


5.).      A  carriage  for  four 


day,   may  be  hirei 


cicerone  called  Antonio  Valeii  may  be 
found.  He  is  well  acquainted  with 
the  localltiii,  and  can  provide  donkeys 
if  requirdl.  The  tmnller  will  find  it 
,  desirable  la  carry  his  own  provisionii 
fram  Rome  or  from  La  Storta,  To 
see  the  Pontc  Soda,  the  Columbarium, 
and  the  Painted  Tomb  will  not  re- 
quire more  than  two  hours.   The  Arx 


of  the  city,  will  require  altogether 
hours.      The  Iravelkr  who  vUits  i 

Ostetia  del  Fatso,  a  short  distance 
yond  U  Storta,  w 


wo  branches 

of  the 

orrent  called  the 

Tufia,  the  7o 

ad  turn 

almost  at  right 

nnglea.andfr 

mthat, 

nmrunspar^lel 

.evalley  ofthe  Cremera.  Alm< 
opposite  this  bend,  on  the  other  nds 
of  the  stream,  is  La  faka,  the  sup- 
posed site  of  the  camp  of  ibe  Fidtii. 
Ascending  the  valley  above  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Cremera  with  the  Foaao 
de'  due  Fossi,  the  two  streams  which 
surround  the  site  of  Veil,  we  pass  the 
Area  di  Pino,  a  fine  arch  in  the  tufa, 

supposed  to  have  descended  to  the 
Cremera.  The  elevated  ridge  on  thi* 
side  of  the  valley  is  supposed  by  Sr 
W.  Gell  to  be  the  position  of  the  Ro. 
man  camp  during  the  siege. 

The  discovery  of  the  true  «it«  of 
Teii  is  one  of  those  interesting  multi 
for  which  we  are  indebted  to  the  study 
of  Etruscan  Bntu[uities,  which  hai 
made  such  rapid  progress  within  the 


nons    the 


The] 


rches 


sola  FamesE, 
and  to  tiie  site  nt  tne  ancient  city. 
Those  who  proceed  on  horseback  or  on 
foot  will  turn  off  from  the  high  road 
near  the  So-called  Tomb  of  Nero  (p. 
28e. ),  where  an  ancient  road  branches 
09"  on  the  right  hand,  and  appears. 

pavement  whicli  were  lately  visible,  to 
be  the  Via  Veientana.  This  road  is 
marked  on  either  side  by  numerous 
foundations  of  tombs,  one  of  which, 
near  the  building  called  Otpedaletto, 


■  Elruria 

the  early 
history  of  Italy  than  the  speculation* 

cords  handed  down  to  us  hy  the  Ro- 
mans themselves.  As  early  as  the 
15th  century  the  Italian  antiqua- 
ries began  to  discuss  the  locality  of 
tliis  famous  Etniscsn  city;  and  from 
that  period  to  the  lieginning  of  the 
present  century  no  spot  on  the  map  of 
Italy  has  been  so  much  the  subject  of 
speculation  and  dispute.  The  recent 
discoveries  have  added  Veil  to  the 
number  of  those  ancient  cities  whoae 
existence  is  proved  to  be  no  flible,  and 
have  establislied  licyond  a  doubt  that 
it  was  situated  between  the  two  slreamg 

todcl  of  Iwla  Famew.  Independently 
evidence  afforded  by  the  Tulna, 
numeroua  inscriptions  bearing  tlie 
names  of  well-known  Etruscan  fiuni- 
lies  have  been  discovered.  The  moat 
remsrkable  of  these  are  the  inscrip- 
tions of  the  Tarquilii  celebrated  by 
Virgil,  and  roeRtioneil  by  Livy  among 
those  &ml\i««  ii\\\<£tv    (mftinccb-  ^!ii« 


ESCITHsrOKS  Fnc 

B^MW  of  non»  (tuiine  the  nciee  :  thc)>  I 
'•  namv  to  11m  I.ibri  Tin|uitiBni 
d  br  Ihc  auniipiea,  and  coiHiiltvd 
■*  the   4tb  eentUTj   by    the  | 
r   Julimi    in    his    eipediliun 
niin*.     Befure  wc  pro- 
d  ts  the  detuli  of  the  antiquillct, 
lunil  the  Kfaular  of  the  de- 
a  ot  DionjKiui,  who  nf «  that 
•'iblrd  w«r  in  which  Romulus  en- 


[    ROM1 


(ft,'0- 


tsi 


lect. 


ne  100 


Aful  of  the  tvdve  cttiei 

Fnn  League,  distant  fror 

wtlidii,  (itueted  on  a  luAy 

KTCok,  •nd  4s  larjp!  u  Ainmi.  inc 
"lUnee  of  100  lUdis  is  eiaMlf  lUl 
_  H  fram  Rom?,  nlculnting  8  stHitia 
W  Iht  modern  mile  :  the  other  point) 
It  Iht  dewriptiun  will  be  adverted  tt 
MrnfU-r.  We  shall  not  dwell  on  Ihi 
of  the  emil;  hislor;  oF  Veil ; 
ln*eller  may  be  pmumed  to  bi 

Wned  «)CBiiist  Rome,  and  with  its  eele- 

'  Bie^  and  eapture  by  Ce 

tiered  the  citadel  by  mei 

1.  c.  993,  atiet  a  ten  yenn 

I  of  this 


tion  of  Ihe  ruitm,  »  near  the  Roraan 
road,  was  not  likely 
liee  of  the  baroni  in  their  sytteni  of 
predatory  irarfiire.  The  ecclesiaitical 
MSS.  in  the  Vatican  tell  ui  that  i 
the  beginning  of  Ihe  lotli  century 
caitle  existed  on  the  isolaied  roek 
which  we  coniider  to  have  fonned  His 
foTtress  of  the  ancient  city.  It  derind 
of  Iroli, 

„  called  in  the  documer 

10th  c 


This 


illus. 


rently  forgolter 


y  of  the   lake  of  Albm 
,1  ■treadybeen  adverted  to  at  p.  56! 

need  not  be  ngnio  repeated.      C 
All  of  the  Elrusean  eitv  [he  sll 
long  deserted  and  app 
until  the  time  o(  Csr: 

of  the  city,  fiir  within  llie  circuit  of 
the  ancient  walla.  Properlius  tells  us 
(hat  Ihe  ancient  area  was  converted 

I  into  pailUTcs  in  his  day  : 


dently  a  position  of  some  strength,  M 
the  hostages  sent  by  the  enipenH 
Henry  V.  lo  pope  Paschal  II.  were 
pUced  in  It  for  X'curity.  In  the  IIIA 
century  it  was  held  by  the  Draini,  and 
!n  1485  was  captured  by  Fromno 
Cnlonna.  In  Ihe  contests  of  JUei-, 
ander  VI.  with  the  Orsiui,  IioliTM 
bnieged  by  Cemr  Borgia,  and  cap- 
tured after  twelve  days'  siege,  wIms 
a  great  portion  of  the  castle  was  de- 
44lrnyed.  Il  appears  at  a  later  period 
to  have  been  incorporated  with  ' 
duchies  of  Caslro  and  Roncigli 
and  to  have  derived  frotn  their  pos- 
sessors the  title  of  Faniese.  In  iJw 
nth  century  it  passed  to  the  Camen 
Apostolica,  and  was  sold  ill  IS90  lit 
the  Duchess  of  Chablaia,  at  wbCM 
death  it  came  inio  the  posseaai 
the    Rospigliosi  ^niily,  who  a 


■e  of  Hadri! 


I  What  r 


site  of  Veil  ? 
iges  of  il  are 
!  r  it  IS  aimcujt  to  put  faith  in 
inals  when  they  would  make  us 
e  in  the  eiistence  of  Veil;"  a 
kahle  pasaa^  as  the  Roman 
Hpium  WIS  then  flourishing  with- 
ihtlrt  distance  of  Ihe  Etruscan 
mills  which  we  shnll  preaeHlV^  fle- 
tibe.     la  the  middle  ages  the  situa-' 


.    isenlproi 

AllliDugh  Nardini  and  Holstenii 
had  both  fixed  tlic  fite  of  Veil  at  H 
Isola  Famese,   Sir  William  GeU  yn 
the  tirsl  antiquary  who  gave  a  map  of 
Vcii,  and  published  an  Italian  account 
of  the  locality  m  Ihe  Transactions  of 
the    Arriiipological     In! 
eiamliied  and  traced  the 
Ihioughout  their  entire 
was  convinced    that    thi 
DionyvuB,   quoted  aliov 
the  city  as  being  as  Urge  as  AQiensi 
was  not  eiaggeraled.      The  maseaoF 
wallthus  discovered, concealed 
lufti  of  brushwood  and  by  accmnula< 
tions  of  fiOil,  are  composed  of  quadri- 
aaW!tB\  WoetB  of  tufa,  some  of  which. 


Papal  StaiesJ}     excursions  from  rome  (  Few). 


587 


eastern  flanks,  are  from  nine  to  eleven 
feet  in  length.  Sir  W.  Gell  con- 
sidered that  a  mass  of  rock  at  the 
south-east  point,  above  the  junction 
of  the  Cremera  with  the  Fosso  de* 
due  Fossi  or  the  Fosso  dell*  Isola, 
called  by  the  peasants  the  PiazzacTAr- 
mi,  was  the  ancient  citadel,  and  that 
Isola  was  beyond  the  walls.  Mr. 
Dennis  considers,  from  the  sepulchral 
caves  and  niches,  **  most  of  them  ap- 
parently Etruscan,**  which  are  hol- 
lowed in  the  rock  in  every  direction, 
that  Isola  was  "nothing  more  than 
part  of  the  Necropolis  of  Veii."  Pro- 
fessor Nibby  thought  that  Isola  was 
too  Commanding  and  too  important 
an  elevation  to  be  allowed  to  remain 
without  the  walls  by  a  people  so  war- 
like as  the  Etruscans,  and  conse- 
quently regarded  it  as  the  ancient 
Arx,  on  which  stood  the  celebrated 
Temple  of  Juno,  into  which  the  mine 
of  Camilliis  penetrated.  He  considers 
that  the  Piazza  d*  Armi  may  have  been 
a  second  Arx,  and  that  the  modern 
name  has  perhaps  preserved  a  record 
of  the  fact.  In  the  flanks  of  Isola  are 
numerous  sepulchral  chambers,  the 
only  specimens  of  the  kind  in  Etruria, 
though  we  meet  with  them  in  Sicily 
and  Malta;  but  in  neither  of  the  two 
rocks  has  any  trace  of  the  cuniculus 
of  Camillus  been  discovered.  The 
site  of  Veii,  as  we  have  stated  above, 
lies  between  two  streams.  The  first 
uf  these,  the  principal  stream  of  the 
valley  below  Isola,  is  the  Fosso  di 
FormcUo,  the  ancient  Cremera,  well- 
known  in  the  history  of  the  wars  of 
Veii  with  the  Fabii:  it  rises  under 
the  Monte  del  Sorbo  near  the  lake  of 
Bracciano,  and  is  still  connected  with 
the  emissary  by  which  it  discharged 
its  waters.  Tlie  second  stream  rises 
near  Torretta,  on  the  left  of  the  Via 
Cassia,  and  is  traversed  by  the  modern 
road  near  the  Osteria  del  Fosso,  12 
miles  from  Home :  near  Veii  it  pre- 
cipitates itself  in  a  fine  cascade  over  a 
rock  80  feet  high,  and  then  proceeds 
along  a  deep  channel,  separating  Isola 
from  the  rest  of  Veii :  at  the  touth- 
eastcrn  eztremi^  of  Itolm  it  recelTes 


two  small  torrents,  called  the  Pino 
and  the  Storta,  and  is  thence  called 
the  Fosso  de*  due  Fossi:  it  unites 
with  the  Cremera  below  the  Piazza 
d'Armi.  These  two  streams  very 
clearly  define  the  outline  of  the  an- 
cient city. 

We  shall  now  proceed  to  trace  the 
circuit  of  the  walls,  and  point  out  the 
position  of  the  gates  which  may  still 
be  recognised.  It  is  necessary,  how- 
ever, to  apprise  the  traveller  that  the 
ruins  are  undergoing  such  constant 
changes  that  no  description  can  hold 
good  even  from  year  to  year.  Mr.- 
Dennis  says,  "  Every  time  I  visit  Veii 
I  am  struck  with  the  rapid  progress 
of  destruction.  Nibby  and  Gell  men- 
tion many  remains  which  are  no  longer 
visible.  The  site  has  less  to  show 
on  each  succeeding  year.  Even  ma- 
sonry, such  as  the  pier  of  the  bridge 
over  the  Fosso  di  Formello,  that  from 
its  massivencss  might  defy  the  pilfer- 
ing of  the  peasantry,  is  torn  to  pieces, 
and  the  blocks  removed  to  form  walls 
or  houses  elsewhere,  so  that,  ere  long, 
I  fear  it  will  be  said  of  Veii,  *  her 
very  ruins  have  perished.*"  Begin- 
ning with  the  road  from  the  Osteria 
del  Fosso,  we  find  the  west  gate  of 
the  city  near  the  Ponte  dell*  Isola,  an 
ancient  bridge  of  a  single  arch,  22 
feet  in  span :  this  gate  is  supposed  by 
the  antiquaries  to  have  been  the  en- 
trance of  the  road  from  the  Septem 
Pagi,  and  they  call  it  from  that  cir- 
cumstance the  Porta  rfc'  Sette  Pagi. 
Near  the  Fosso  dell*  Isola,  is  a  gate 
which  appears  to  have  been  formed 
in  the  walls  which  united  the  town 
with  the  citadal  on  the  rock  of  Isola, 
and  called  the  Porta  dett  Arce.  East 
of  Isola  on  the  plain  below  the  rock, 
near  the  junction  of  the  Fosso  del 
Pino  with  that  of  Isola,  are  some 
mineral  springs,  and  another  gate 
called  the  Porta  Campana,  Beyond, 
on  the  soqth-east,  are  the  ruins  of  a 
gate  in  the  direction  of  Fidenae,  called 
the  Porta  FidenaU,  Near  this  a  curi- 
ous postern  and  a  flight  of  steps  of 
uncemented  Etruscan  masonry,  called 
••  La  ^ca\«U»r  'w«t^^vsftw«v^\si>AMa 

c  <:  ^ 


BXCDRSioMB  pnou  HOME  (Feu).  '^Sect.T 


tfoni  ih*  FiMM  il'Armi,  MceDding  liigh  :  il 
a  nltif  «f  llw  CrERwra,  ve  miif  brudiwi 
IM  ih«  fam  in  the  ciuurn  and  ■  withuui 
lliv  eily  :   the  fim  '  of  Ihe  i 


B,  sltbcnigb  U  fornu  , 

eturcsqueobjeCU  of  the 

Ctbe  Forla  Si  Pirtra  Pitiuia,  in  the  '  local  it;.   Tliii  gate  was  viiboul  di 

'  «  of  the  Pirtra  Perlusa.  ■  re-  |  the  prineipal  entrance   to    Vefi, 

^hiUc  nittina  by  whicli  the  rnad    that  by  which  the  road  from  Cnpeiu. 

n  V«i  Jidiwd  the  KlummlBn  Way.     FaUril,  Nepe,  &c.  passed  iiito  theci^. 

b  Dm  rouleiiuidelhii  gate  u  a  large    Near  it  U  a    warm   mineral  spring. 

t,  called  La  Vaccareccia,  with  |  The  tumuli  in  Ilie  neighbourhood  of 

of  trc«  (brming  acontpicuoua    the  Ponle  Soda  liaie  been   eiploml 

..•t  in  the  Campagna.     It  haaboen   by   the   Prince  oT  Cantno,  who  dk- 

■Tatvd  by  the  l^een  oT  Sardinia,  !  cuveredinthciusonieafthe  mostbeaa- 

0  owni  nearly  all  llie  Und  in  the  j  tiful  gold  urnaTnenis  in  his  eolleetioa, 

igbbourliood ;  but  noihiiig  was  din-    The  gate  i»  still  used  for  the  pauage 

'^'    '  of  the  modern  road  from  lu>U  to  For- 

'.  CeH'a  ■uggestioo.  that  it  may  be    mello,  Monte  Musino,  &c.      B^opd 

C  lomb  uf  I'ropeniui,  King  of  Veii,    this  is  the  Poria  dd  Coloribaria,  wbicli 

ir  of  Murriu^  the  Veltiitine  king  who    detiies  its  name  liam  the  ruined  Co- 

V'4ialituled  theSalian  rites  and  dances.  I  lunibarium  near  it        Some    oT  the 

At  the  north-east  angle  of  the  walls  is    polygonal  pivement  of  the  road 

tha   Arls  ddlt   An    Miaii.-  all  the    led  from   this  gate  to  the  Formella, 

■atemal    fortiUcaliont   of   this    gale,    may  still  be  traced  with  its  eurbUDnci 

fonning  a  kind  of  piaia,  have  been   and    run   wom    by    ancient   cbanol 

prewrocd,  togeth        '■    "' 


drangular  blocks  of  II 


■narkable  conical  valcanic  ! 
ward  of  Saccono,  ascended 
■Ttiflcial  spiral  terraces,  trh 
mit,  clothed  with  fine  grove 
and  eomronndtng  a  noble  rie 


building  auppoud  to  be  the  An 
ti«,  the  Temple  of  the  Eii 
Venus.  Between  this  and  the 
gate.  Sir  W.  Gel)  saw  and  delic 
some  remarkable  fragments  o 
■nci<.-nt  walls,  c 
blocks  of  tufa,  1 
feet  long  and  S  feet  high:  (he  walb 
Tested  un  a  triple  course  of  bricks 
each  ibuut  a  yard  in  length,  a  pecu- 
liarity of  eonsiruclion  which  has  not 
been  observed  in  any  other  Etruscan 
oilj  ;  but  at  present  nn  trace  of  such 
remains  are  to  be  found.  The  neit 
gate  is  the  Faria  Capcnalc,  a  double 
gate  Ranked  by  a  tower,  close  to  the 
Ponte  Sodo,  a  bridge  excavated  srii- 
I  #oiaU/.  like 


he  bridge  are  alsi 
nello.    Farther  01 


oed  of  ei 


Gnefiag. 
esting  on 
oricKS  jiae  me  pomon  already  ^' 
scribed.  The  last  gate  to  be  n 
tioned  is  the  Porta  SuCrino,  a  ■ 
distance  from  the  Ponte  di  Fotmello, 
a  bridge  of  It^man  brickwork  built 
upon  Etruscan  picnL  The  ai 
road  which  entered  Veii  by  the  „ 
of  Fidenie  passed  out  of  it  after  tia- 
veraing  Ihe  whole  length  of  the  city, 
and  fell  into  Ihe  Via  Cassis,  near  thi 
twelfth  milestone  on  the  modern  roxd 
from  liome.  The  gate  faces  Sutii 
(p.  333.).  and  probably  led  to  it.  ThU 
brings  us  hack  to  the  Ponte  dell' 
Isola,  from  which  we  commenced  oui 
aurv<^.  The  circuit  of  the  walls  we 
Imve  now  described  is  auppoaed 


trable  lu  parts, 
Rotnan  road  i 
tombs  and 


iaUy.  like  a  tunnel,  in  the  tufa,  840  I  the  site  of  the  E 
t  long,  ISket  broad,  and '10  [eeA^un&e&.  \ij  <iVb 


al  traces  of  a 

restigei    of 

ilumbarium  marking 


FcqMil  States.']    ExcuRsioi^s  from  ROM£(Fett). 


589 


destruction  of  the  Etruscan  city.  It 
was  about  two  miles  in  circumference, 
and  was  so  far  within  the  ancient 
walls,  that  the  inhabitants  seem  to 
have  been  ignorant  of  their  existence. 
The  Columbarium  is  now  the  only 
representative  of  the  Roman  settle- 
ment: it  was  found  entire,  and  the 
interior  was  ornamented  with  stucco 
and  pictures,  but  all  of  these  are  now 
destroyed,  and  the  three  chambers  of 
which  the  building  was  composed  are 
in  a  state  of  ruin.  Near  it  were  found 
the  two  colossal  heads  of  Tiberius 
nnd  Augustus,  the  sitting  colossal 
statue  of  Tiberius,  preserved  in  the 
Vatican  Museum,  a  mutilated  statue 
of  Germanicus,  and  other  interesting 
fragments,  among  which  are  the  co* 
lumns  of  marmo  bigio,  which  formerly 
adorned  the  Capella  del  SS.  Sacra- 
mento in  the  Basilica  of  S.  Paolo. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley  of 
the  Formello,  half  way  up  the  slope 
of  the  mound  called  the  Poggio  Reale, 
is  the  very  interesting  Painted  Tombf 
discovered  by  Cav.  Campana  in  the 
winter  of  1842.  It  is  the  only  tomb 
of  Veii  which  is  now  open,  and  as  it 
is  probably  the  most  ancient  which 
has  yet  been  discovered  in  any  Etrus- 
can city,  it  cannot  fail  to  interest  tlie 
traveller  and  antiquary,  to  whom  Cav. 
Campana  has  rendered  an  important 
service,  by  leaving  it  with  its  furniture 
in  the  exact  condition  in  which  it  was 
discovered.  The  passage  cut  in  the 
rock  leading  to  the  tomb  is  guarded 
by  two  lions  couchant,  and  the  en- 
trance itself  is  similarly  guarded. 
The  tomb  is  a  low  gloomy  chamber 
cut  in  the  arenaceous  clay,  with  a 
door  formed  of  converging  blocks,  like 
the  Cyclopean  gateways.  The  walls  are 
covered  with  grotesque  paintings  of 
men,  boys,  horses,  leopards,  cats, 
spliinxes,  and  dogs,  remarkable  for 
their  rude  execution,  their  strange 
colouring,  and  disproportionate  forms. 
These  paintings  are  of  the  very  high- 
est antiquity,  and  are  remarkable  as 
being  much  leas  Egyptian  in  their 
character  than  tboae  discovered  in  the 
painted  toalM  td  Tar^inii  and  other 


Etruscan  cities.  Projecting  from  the 
walls  on  either  side  of  the  tomb  is  a 
bench  of  rock,  on  each  of  which, 
when  the  tomb  was  opened,  a  skeleton 
was  found,  but  exposure  to  the  air 
soon'  caused  both  of  them  to  crumble 
into  dust.  One  of  these  had  been  a 
warrior,  and  on  the  right  hand  bench 
are  still  preserved  portions  of  the 
breastplate,  the  spear-head,  and  the 
helmet,  perforated  by  the  fatal  weapon 
which  deprived  the  warrior  of  life. 
The  other  skeleton,  from  the  absence 
of  armour,  was  probably  that  of  a 
woman.  Micali  remarks,  that  the 
style  and  decorations  of  this  tomb-show 
no  imitation  of  the  Egyptian,  and 
that  **all  is  genuinely  national,  and 
characteristic  of  the  primitive  Etrus- 
can school.**  The  large  earthen  jars, 
which  were  found  to  contain  human 
ashes,  are  in  the  earliest  style  of 
Etruscan  art.  An  inner  and  smaller 
chamber,  with  two  beams  carved  in 
relief  on  the  ceiling,  has  a  low  ledge 
of  rock  round  three  of  its  sides,  on 
which  stand  square  cinerary  urns  or 
chests,  also  containing  human  ashes, 
with  several  jars  and  vases,  probably 
of  the  same  character.  In  the  centre 
is  a  low  bronze  brazier  about  two  feet 
in  diameter,  which  doubtless  served 
for  burning  perfumes.  On  the  wall 
opposite  the  doorway  are  painted  six 
small  many-coloured  discs  or  paters, 
the  exact  nature  of  which  has  been 
the  subject  of  much  and  hitherto  in- 
conclusive  discussion.  Above  them 
are  many  stumps  of  nails  in  the  walls, 
which  have  rusted  away  with  all  trace 
of  the  articles  which  were  suspended 
from  them.  At  the  entrance  of  this 
double  tomb  was  another  smaller  on^ 
intended  probably  for  the  domestics 
or  dependents  of  the  family.  It  con- 
tains some  fragments  of  pottery,  and 
the  other  usual  furniture  of  tombs. 
It  is  a  peculiarity  of  this  sepulchre, 
that  unlike  most  other  Etruscan  tombs 
it  has  no  epitaph  or  inscription  what- 
ever, on  sarcophagus,  urn,  cippus,  or 
tile,  to  record  the  name  of  the  chief- 
tain or  hero  who  was  here  interred. 
Th«  modetik  ^vVUi^  ^  Vik\».\&  vo^  v 


BXCt'ttsioKi  moM  BOMB  (/^Xf  e^Brucerirno),  ^secT 

»  lit  einnplclc  dcr*}.      Thu  biilld-    trldam  thougtit  oDij  the  piuiing  m- 


1   vtlUr,  U 


'littfty  of  Ihi  15lh  .      , 

I   ■ppuianra   of    tKe    pD)iuUlian, ,  the  bntvi 
Wch  wldom  ctctcdi  10(1  >  .      .— 


iigrei'mble  ■ 


t  nuiliri*  during  the  hot  moinhj. 
M  church,  dedicated  to  ihe  Virgir 
d  to  8b  PiineiBiio.  wn  built  in  Ihi 
Vib  ccnlurr,  after  Ihe  siege  of  Ceui 
'       ■       ■  -       a  of  th. 

n  of  the  Virgin,  the  work 


rconery  of  (he 
•dke  dilfen  in  evdy  refpect  from  that 
uf  the  smnller  laki-K  ataunil  Rome 
■nd  the  baronial  rautlei  whiffa  tltll 
frown  upon  its  Innka  carrjr  us  buk 
inio  Ihe  feudal  limes  more  completely 
Ihnn  any  other  objects  within  to  iboit 
a  distance  of  the  capital.  The  mad 
■y  E™>d  S  it  braochei 


ably  of  UiBt  period.      The  village    oW  from  Ihe  post-toad  to  Florettce,  be> 


M  Ibrnwrly  approached  only 
de,  and  wa>  entered  by  a  gate  called 
•  Poitonaceio;  it  hai  now  anotbei 
I  of  Isler  eon<>lruclian  cut  ir 
t  luKi  rock,  cntnmanding  a  pictu- 
liquc  view  oT  the  cBucidc.  and  of  Ihi 
'^ ■  '        which  bound  the  clt) 


BTcller  wlio  desires  to 
>f  Ilieav  ancient  Subine  nties 
n  Rome,  a  dibtance  of  only  5  i 


by  the  Portu  del  Popolu,  and,  leavinj 
tlie  Ploreni'e  road  on  Ibe  left,  take 
Ihe  path  to  the  Aci|na  Aceton  am 
the  site  of  ancient  Aniemns.  It  is  i 
very  inteiCBting  cicunion,  and,  oi 
account  of  its  easy  disiance,  is  better 
managed  fram  Home  than  from  any 
other  point.  Both  these  aitcn  are 
,  Ailly  described  at  p.  1TB.,  at  Ibe  dose 

I  at  Route  Z4. 
f  This  celebrated  Elniscnn  cilv  is 
jto  miles  distant  from  Uuine  on  'the 
Ketia  road.  The  traveller  who  visits 
b  from  Rome  will  do  best  to  make 
bonciglione  his  head- quarters,  as 
^t  town.  A  description  of  the  re- 
mains of  Slilri  will  be  found  at  p. 
S33.,  at  Ihe  end  of  Route  K6.; 


yond  Id   StorlB,  and    then 
the  ancient  Via  Claudia  to  the 
of  the  town.    The  country  ia  dull  and 
uointereiting  unlil  we  approach 
deserted  town  of  Galera,  the  nr. 
aentniive  of  the  ancient  Carein,  beau- 
liflillj  situated  on  a  I.ill   of  voli 
tufa  above  Ihe  pretty  valley   of  the 
* ■' '        ■      ■,  of  the 


lake  of  E 
tury  it  f 
Golera,   . 


e  title    li 
I    held    I 


e  lOlh  e 


J   important 
of  the  Cam- 

pagna  :  in  the  13lh 
to  the  Onini,  whose  armorial  b«Finp 
are  atiil  visible  on  the  galev.  Many 
of  its  homes  are  built  in  the  (iotlda 
style  of  the  I3th  century,  and  the 
walls  which  Burroixnd  the  town  are 
probably  twi  '         " "  ~~ 


:e  lias  beeo  desi 


ted  for  I 


any  gene- 
is  now  in  ruins.  The  position  ia  ei- 
ceedingly  romantic,  and  its  complote 
solitude  ia  one  of  the  most  impr^n 
examples  of  the  influence  of  mataria 


foutitry,  skirling  the 
which  form  the  Boulher 
the  crater  of  the  lake, 
pruach  Bracciano  »e  pass  on  the  left 
hand  a  small  pestilential  lake  cBlled 
Ihe  Lttgo  Morto,  beyond  which  the 
-oad  divides  into  two  braneheB;  one 
calling  direct  to  Bmcciano,  the  other 
o  Ihe  Cappuccini,  whence  a  alraight 


Papal  States,']    excursions  from  romb  (Bracciano).        59l 


terminated  by  the  picturesque  village 
of  Trevignano  on  the  opposite  shore, 
anfl  backed  by  the  forked  peak  of 
Monte  Rocca  Romana,  while  on  the 
extreme  right  we  see  the  promontory 
crowned  with  the  village  of  Anguil* 
lara.  Bracciano  is  a  well-built  town 
of  about  1500  souls,  with  a  thriving 
paper  manufactory,  and  a  magnificent 
baronial  castle  in  the  Gothic  style, 
built  by  the  Orsini  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury, on  a  commanding  rocky  emi- 
nence above  the  lake.  It  is  generally 
considered  to  be  the  finest  feudal  castle 
ill  Italy  :  it  is  defended  by  four  Ibfty 
towers,  machicolations,  and  battle- 
ments, all  in  the  most  perfect  order, 
and  lighted  by  large  Gothic  windows. 
It  is  built  of  black  volcanic  stone,  said 
to  have  been  taken  from  the  pavement 
of  the  Via  Claudia,  and  the  effect  of 
its  sombre  colour  is  increased  by  the 
immense  size  and  proportions  of  the 
outworks.  The  front  facing  the  lake 
is  entcied  by  a  projecting  gateway 
K'ading  into  a  spacious  court,  resem- 
bling in  its  style  the  Palazzo  di  Venezia 
at  Rome.  On  numerous  parts  of  the 
building  the  armorial  bearings  of  the 
Orsini  are  still  visible.  In  the  in- 
terior many  of  the  rooms  are  hung 
with  tapestry  and  silk  hangings  of  the 
time  of  the  Orsini,  and  the  old  family 
portraits,  the  massive  chimney-pieces, 
and  the  heavy  antiquated  furniture, 
complete  the  picture  of  a  baronial 
residence  of  the  15th  century.  The 
Orsini  appear  to  have  been  deprived 
of  the  property  prior  to  the  accession 
of  Martin  V.,  of  the  house  of  Colonna, 
in  1417,  but  they  were  reinstated  in 
their  possessions  by  that  pontiff*  with 
the  title  of  counts.  In  the  wars  of 
the  Colonna  with  Sixtus  IV.  and  In- 
nocent VIII.  in  1485,  Bracciano  was 
ciptured  and  sacknd  by  the  Colonna. 
The  castlu  appears  to  have  been  built 
about  this  time,  and  Paul  IV.  in  1564 
confirmed  the  Orsini  in  their  fief,  and 
raiped  it  to  the  rank  of  a  duchy.  They 
retained  possession  of  it  until  the 
close  of  the  last  century,  when  they 
sold  it  to  the  Odescalchi,  who  sold  it 
iu  the  beginning  of  the  present  cen- 


tury to  Giovanni  Torlonia,  the  banker, 
for  500,000  scudi.  His  son  still  holda 
the  property,  and  derives  from  it  the 
title  of  Duke  of  Bracciano.  The 
feudal  privileges  of  the  castle  were 
not  surrendered  to  the  government  at 
the  French  invasion,  and  are  conse- 
quently in  full  force :  the  hall  of  jus- 
tice is  still  shown  at  the  summit  of 
the  castle,  in  which  the  duke  has  the 
power  of  sitting  in  judgment  on  his 
vassals.  It  would  be  difiUcult  to  find 
in  any  part  of  Europe  a  more  perfect 
realization  of  baronial  times  than  the 
castle  of  Bracciano :  it  seems  made 
to  be  the  scene  of  some  story  of  ro- 
mance, and  we  believe  that  it  was  the 
first  place  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Rome  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  ex- 
pressed an  anxiety  to  visit  The  town 
of  Bracciano  is  divided  into  two  por- 
tions, the  borgo  vecchio  and  the  borgo 
nuovo:  the  old  town  includes  the 
castle  and  its  dependencies,  but  al- 
though situated  high  above  the  lake 
it  shares  with  the  lower  quarter  the 
suspicion  of  malaria.  The  Lake,  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  twenty-two 
miles  in  circumference,  presents  all 
the  characteristics  of  an  extinct  crater: 
it  is  the  Lacus  Sabatinus  of  the  Ro- 
mans, and  derived  its  name  from  an 
ancient  Etruscan  city  of  Sabate,  which 
was  supposed  by  the  Roman  historians 
to  have  been  submerged  by  the  waters 
of  the  lake.  An  interesting  road  leads 
from  Bracciano  to  the  little  village  of 
Oriolo^  remarkable  for  the  villa  of  the 
Altieri  family :  it  passes  through  a 
pretty  country  on  the  skirts  of  the 
great  forest  in  which  the  Acqiia  Paola 
has  its  origin.  On  the  right  hand, 
between  the  road  and  the  lake,  is  the 
Church  of  San  Liberato,  distant 
about  a  mile  from  Bracciano ;  whence 
there  is  a  direct  path  above  the  shores 
of  the  lake,  traversing  the  ancient 
pavement  of  the  Via  Claudia,  which 
was  extended  in  this  direction.  The 
church  is  l>eautifully  placed  on  a  hill 
commanding  the  whole  of  the  lake : 
it  dates  firom  the  8th  or  9th  century, 
and  occupies  the  site  of  a  Roman  villa 
called  Va.\i«\^^xk^\^viL^\ki  'V\'e!C».'ia^ 


m 


m 


SQI  EXCURSIONS  moM  HOME  {Trtcignano}.       "[Sectli 

■ift  iif  T«u«  Mrtlii*  Ilnloniuv  "  »«  iloreil  tb>  Mwn,  and  introduced  into 
TiiiT  w  I'm™  ■'■'■■iKiiiJtian  priiwrved  the  properly  Ilia  Tuscan  sjstem  of 
iinJfr  tb(  portieoL  The  pavcineni  ii  agriculture.  M  that  tt  now  preseati  a 
cDmp'Xcd  of  ancienl  fngmviiti,  •mong  itiiking  contnut  to  e«ry  other  baro- 
wliich  »  >n  ituerilwd  Rone  with  the '  nUI  property  in  the  nraghbourhood 
name  of  Grrnuiiieiu.  A  road  along  n(  Rome,  with  the  oiception  of  the 
eWales  of  Prince  Borghen  at  Fnucati 


V.cortUo,  the 
III 


ark- 


The 


pictures  I 
might  ea| 
place:  one  represent 


IS  two 


ancitut  Vlcui  Aurelii,  ii 

ahic  tot  IliE  Tuiiu  of  an  impetial  iitla 
at  \\.t  litn*  of  Trajan,  a    "    '        ' 

mineral  waton  known  in  ancient  lime*  place:  one  represent!  the  Anumplion 
M  llw  Hioms  Aurcl'w,  and  rotored  i  of  the  Virgin,  and  ia  attributed  t<r  tha 
by  the  Grrman  Cullege  in  the  ponti-  i  school  of  Raphael :  the  other,  repre- 
ticale  of  L'Iciocnt  XII.  (1'^^)  under  |  scnling  the  Virgin,  St.  Jerome,  and 
the  name  of  the  Bngni  di  Vicarello.  St.  Francis,  is  by  the  school  of  Pem- 
In  the  mnliile  agn,  as  early  ai  the  \  gino.  From  Trevignano  a  steep  and 
■  nth  eeMnry,  Vinrullo  was  a  rurtllicd  I  difficult  path  lends  ns  (hrough  Ibe 
tillage  belonging  to  the  inonanery  of  i  deep  ravine  called  the  Val  d'  Inferno, 
^.  tiregorio  on  the  Cielian.  It  ia  '  to  ilie  hamUt  uf  PiillUe,  on  the  ridge 
mposcd  to  have  been  ruined  in  the  |  which  separates  the  Like  of  BraeciaDO 

''iLiuslA  of  the  Roman  barons  with  ;  Jrom  the  omaller  craters  of  Martig- 
Jliins,  and  iu  later  liines  it  hceauie  '  nana  and  Slmceiacaiipe,  on  the  wesl- 
ilic  property  of  the  German  College, '  crn  aide  of  the  crater  of  Baccsno. 
<>I>o  ha*e  made  great  eflurts  to  bring '  About    hie  miles  beyonil  Falline  ws 

tl  balht  into  repute,  in  spite  of  the  >  cro>5  the  Arrcne,  already  mentioned 
laracter  of   the  cli      '  ■  ■--■■■       -~ 

from  Vieart 
a  picturesque  village  of 
.HHi  uuis,  situated  on  a  projecting 
lock  of  lava,  and  crowned  by  the  ruins 
ofa  feudal  castle  of  the  ISIh  century. 
It  occupies  the  uts  of  tlie  Etruscan 
city  of  Tribonianum,  of  which  some 
remains  of  walls  are  still  vitible.  Tre- 
vignano is  one  of  the  old  (eudal  pos- 
--'  -  »  of  the  Orsini  hmily,  to  whom 


suspected   < 
About  three  n 


it  gare  the  title  of  ci 

fieient  to  confer  its  name  on  the  lake 
The  Orsini  were  besieged  here  in  the 
I5Ih  century  by  the  Colonna  and  by 
Ce&ar  Brirgio,  who  took  the  castle 
and  sacked  the  (own,  from  which  it 

it  became  the  property  of  the  ducnl 
family  of  Gtillo,  of  Genoa,  who  held 
it  UQiil  a  few  years  back,  when  it 
passed  to  the  Tuscan  family  of  de' 
Cunti  with  the  title  of  uiarq'uia.  In 
1835  Gregory  XVI.  raised  it  to  the 
dignity  of  a  principality  in  favour  of 
Prince  Cosimo  de'  Conti,  wlio  \iia  te-\ic.  S.  M-avi 


outlet  of  tbe  lake  of  Bracetana; 

a  mile  and  a  half  beyond  which  is 
AitguiBara,  a  village  of  TOO  souls, 
aucienllf  culled  Angularia  from  the 
angle  formed  by  the  luHy  intulated 
rock  on  which  it  stands  above  the 
irth-eastern  margin  of  the  lake.     In 


c  t4t 


lake,  a 


1   of  tl 


Counts  of  Anguillara,  Their  ba. 
ronial  ca<,tle,  crowned  and  defended 
by  towers  of  the  ISlh  stntury,  still 
retuns  their  armorial  bearings,  and  is 
remarkable  for  Its  successful  resistance 
to  the  forces  of  the  duke  of  Calabria 
iu  I486,  who  was  compelled  to  raise 
the  siege  and  retire  with  the  loss  of 
furty  men.  The  property  parsed  &um 
■he  Orsini  to  tbe  Grillo  family,  and  is 
now  by  inheritance  tlie  possession  of 
tbe  Duchess  of  Hondragonc  and 
Eholi,  their  last  representative  in  tho 
irch,  dedicated 
,  wxM^iet  the 


Papal  States.']    excursions  from  jlome  (Ostia). 


398 


highest  point  of  the  rock :  it  was  re- 
built in  bad  taste  in  1780,  and  is  re- 
markable only  for  its  fine  view  over 
the  lake.   The  Villa  Mondragone  with 
its  cypress  plantations  is  prettily  situ- 
ated, and  adds  considerably  to  the  pic- 
turesque beauty  of  the  town.     Near 
it  and  in  various  parts  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood   are    vestiges    of    ancient 
foundations  and  numerous  fragments 
of  antique  marbles  and  inscriptions, 
supposed  to  mark  the  sites  of  Roman 
villas.     The  most  important  ruin  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  lake  was 
discovered  by  Professor  Nibby  at  the 
deserted  church  of  San  Stefano,  about 
two  miles  south- west  of  Anguillara : 
it  is  of  great  extent,  and  is  considered 
by  that  industrious  antiquary  to  be- 
long to  an  ancient  villa  of  the  1st  cen- 
tury of  our  era.     Anguillara  b  20 
miles  from  Rome :  the  road  is  prac- 
ticable for  carriages,  and  ftdls  into  the 
Via  Claudia,  the  hi^  road  from  Rome 
to  Bracciano,  at  the  Osteria  Nuova 
near  Galera.     After  leaving  Anguil- 
lara, shortly  before  we  arrive  at  the 
point  where  the  cross-roads  from  Ce- 
sano,   S.  Stefano,  and  Bracciano  fall 
into  this  line,  the  view  looking  back 
over  the  lake  is  one  of  the  finest  scenes 
of  the  kind  in  Italy. 

OSTIA,  AND   THE  CiTIES  ON  THE  COAST 
OP   ANCIENT    LaTIUM. 

This  excursion,  though  less  per- 
formed by  the  passing  traveller  than 
any  other  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Rome,  is  by  no  means  one  of  the  least 
interesting,  though  a  journey  through 
the  forest  is  not  unattended  with  diffi- 
culty and  danger.  Artists  and  scholars 
are  occasionally  tempted  by  the  clas- 
sical associations  of  the  spot  to  make 
a  pedestrian  tour  to  Ostia,  and  explore 
the  picturesque  but  deserted  coast  be- 
tween it  and  Nettuno,  visiting  the 
sites  of  Lavinium,  Ardea,  and  Antium 
on  their  way.  The  road  from  Rome 
to  Ostia  is  practicable  for  carriages, 
and  those  who  are  unwilling  to  en- 
counter the  fatigues  of  the  excursion 
along  the  coast  generally  go  and  re- 
turn  on  the  same  day.     Travdlen 

Cm/,  It. 


whose  classical  enthusiasm  and  love  of 
the  picturesque  may  lead  them  to  ex- 
tend their  tour,  will  find  it  more  de- 
sirable to  hire  horses  at  Rome  than 
to  encumber  themselves  with  a  car- 
riage, or  risk  the  fatigues  of  a  pedes- 
trian excursion.  It  is  also  desirable 
to  obtain  permission  from  Prince 
Chigi  to  make  Castel  Fusano  the  rest- 
ing-place for  the  first  night,  and  to  be 
provided  before-hand  with  letters  to 
residents  at  Pratica,  Ardea,  and  Porto 
d'Anzo.  Those  who  intend  to  visit 
Porto  and  Fiumicino  had  better  do 
so  on  their  way  to  Ostia :  they  must 
therefore  leave  Rome  by  the  Porta 
Portese,  and  proceed  direct  to  Fiumi- 
cino by  a  road  described  in  a  subse* 
quent  page,  unless  they  take  advantage 
of  the  steamers  which  were  lately  built 
in  England  for  the  papal  government, 
and  now  ply  regularly  upon  the  Tiber. 
If  the  road  be  preferred,  the  best  plan 
will  be  to  sleep  at  the  good  inn  of 
Fiumicino  on  the  first  night,  and  at 
Castel  Fusano  on  the  second. 

Ostia   is   distant    16    miles   from 
Rome.     It  contains  a  miserable  o^ 
teria,  where  the  traveller  must  pay 
exorbitantly  for  every  thing ;  he  had 
therefore  better  make  a  bargain  be- 
forehand if  he  be  unable  to  obtain 
accommodation  at  the  Castel  Fusano. 
A  carriage  for  four  persons  to  go  and 
return  in  the  same  day  may  be  hired 
for   five  scudi.      The  journey  from 
Rome  occupies  3^  hours,  and  that  on 
the  return  4  hours.    The  road  leaves 
Rome  by  the  Porta  San  Paolo,  and 
follows  the  Via  Ostiensis  running  pa- 
rallel to  the  Icf^  bank  of  the  Tiber  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  distance.    Soon 
after  passing  the  basilica  of  S.  Paolo 
we  see  the  ruins  of  the  V\cu»  AUxan^ 
dri,  an  ancient    Roman  village   dis- 
covered a  few  years  ago  by  Professor 
Nibby.     About  4  miles  from  the  gate 
the  ancient  Via  Laurentina,  still  used 
as  the  carriage-road  to  Decimo  and 
Pratica,  branches  oflT  on  the  left  hand. 
At  the  distance  of  9  miles  from  Rome, 
after  passing  the  solitary  osteria   of 
Malafede,  we  cross  a  small  stream^  a 

*  c  c  Si 


bridge  ai\tii  Uk  Ponti  ddb  Rdblu.  |  foitified  bf   his 

Tb»   Rtad   gndiuU]'  deuendt  >s  we  {  Giuliaoo    dell*     Ronre, 

Approuh  the  ca»^  nui    tnTcncs  ■  |  Julius  11.,  (nia  ihe 


di^riet  of  iDcknchalf  daolsti 
Knling  ttothing  to  divert  the  E&uno- 
taaj  of  the  scene,  eicepi  some  Gnclj- 
pnsemd  ftagmeDtt  of  the  sncieot 
pkTemenl.  Aj  ire  drsK  ncarci  to 
Oilia  vc  tee  the  sall-nisnhet  which 
Ljvy  meDti(ii&  u  existing  io  tba  tiou 
of  Ancu*  Alsrtius.  Tbe  rgad  croBsea 
thof  northcTQ  eitremit;  b}  an  ancieDt 
bridge,  uid  immediatelj  afterwuds 
m  reach  the  modera  village  of  Oilis. 
Of  ajt  the  towns  in  the  amiani  of 
Rome  this  is  one  of  the  cant  meUn. 
•holy.  The  pupulation  b;  the  official 
Bweolu  of  1835  compciies  only  ^O 
•OUlai  and  durii^  the  summer  heats, 
uhbouting  coast  it  w- 
1  with  malaria,  this 
is  Mill  Dutber  reduced 
by  the  eiDignitiaii  of  those  who  are 
able  to  letie  the  tpat.  Th«  dcstruc- 
lioii  of  ancient  Ostia  by  the  Saiacem 
in  the  fifth  century  was  »  complete 
that  no  attempt  vat  eiet  rosde  U>  re- 
store it>  and  the  Dcigfabourhood  ap- 
pears to  have  been  deserted  until 
a.  D.  890.  vben  the  present  tooB  was 
(bunded  by  Oregory  I V.  at  a  distant 


t  neighb 
fiicted    ' 


liauo  SaogalliA  wiw  lived  ai  0«ia. 
as  Vnari  (ells  usi  for  liro  yean  Ib  (bt 
senice  of  the  canlioaL  lliis  cotk, 
the  picturesque  fbctress  at  nodda 
Ostia,  conusls  of  maaiTe  iemicii«»Ut 
toweix  iu  the  styU  of  the  ISlh  ds- 
lury,  united  by  a  curtain  and  iMi  *  ' 
by  a  ditch.  Tbe  ansa  of  Ibc 
Roiere  &mily  ate  Mill  teem  upo 
gale ;  ooiot   were  struck   in  eoi 


dina]  employed  Baldaisare  Pefuai  m 
decorate  the  interior  with  fravoai 
but  all  traces  of  his  wotLs  hftre  bc^ 
destroyed  by  the  damp  and  nijtt  tt 
upwards  of  three  ccatmiea.  In  ]<!H 
(he  cardinal  made  it  memoanblc  bt 
his  gallant  defeat  of  the  French 


racciano,  lower  down  the  ritcr,  bw 
■itbin  the  ciieuil  of  the  wriwl 
■rails,  and  eontiaued  to  impixna  aoA 
itrengtben  the  town  a&er  his  ace^ 
uon  to  tbe  papal  chair.  Tlie  apfica- 
ince  of  the  old  fijrtrest  of  Oata.  wilb 


of  more  than  a  mile  irom  the  oriyiaal ,  Aonl  of  it,  is  eiceedinglj  pictumqw^ 
city.  The  pope  turrouoded  it  with '  and  is  well  known  by  numerom  (b- 
wdll>  and  it  it  mentioned  in  many  I  gnvingi.  Many  of  the  prit«u  hooMM 
tccleaiaitical  doeuments  of  the  period  i  retain  their  arcbiteetore  of  Ihk  [weiad 
under  the  name  of  G ri^otiopoli.  la  |  almosi  without  change.  Modeta  0>- 
the  pontificate  of  Leo  IV.  it   became  I  tia,  alter  the  death  of  JuUi     '  ' 


fttnous  for  the  defeat  of  the  Saticeni 
which  Raphael  has  immortaliied 
the  third  Sianis  of  the  Vatican.  I 
fioany  centuries  it  was  a  position 


,  dually  declined,  and  was  finally  nwMd 
-  6 1 2,  when  Paul  V.  le-opncd  te 
It  arm  of  tbe  Tiber,  preciaalj  a* 
ancient  city  was  ruined  bj  ili* 
.  UructioD  of  the  pott  of  "" 
middle  agea,  and  tbe  popuUtion  ap-  It  now  contains  nothing  ta  r 
pemn  to  hare  been  considerable  as  late  traveller  except  tbe  cattle 
M  the  1  jth  century,  when  it  was  be-  ,  abore,  and  the  church  or  calhcdtv)  af 
■il^ed  and  taken  by  Ladislaus  king  of  Sl  Aurea,  rebuilt  by  Cardinal  ikltB. 
N^>le9i.  Tbe  fbrtifieations  were  sub-  Rovere  froni  tbe  designs  of  "rraM 
lequently  restored  by  Martin  V. .  whote  I  Piut«lli:  it  still  retains  hit  anaorial 
ftrms  may  yet  be  reeogULsed  o»  some  ,  beartng^and  the  trophies  of  his  vietetfv 
portions  of  tbe  walls.  About  the  same  ;  over  the  French.  The  episcopal  pa- 
time  Cardinal  d'EtloutetiUe,  b'uJiop  '  lace  was  converted  by  Catdinl  I^Kak 
of  tbe  diocese,  restored  llie  town,  and  .  while  bishop  of  the  see,  into  a  mm 
prebtibif  hlid  the  fouudsntiot^  oE  v\m  tnuffeu\t«Q^Ko^uv^d>iv^^tocheocttaiB^i 
^gftent    Catlh,    which  was  liuvVV  anl  «««  fn^nxmu  rK  iiati>^iHH&VMi^ 


Papal  States.'} 


imong  the  ruins  of  ttie  Bncient  citf . 
The  bishopric  of  Ooia.  ia  one  of  the 
most  celebtHted  in  the  Papal  State* : 
the  Churrh  tradition  telli  ui  that  i1 
11  fbundfd  in  the  time  of  the  apos- 


tles,   1 

S.  Urban  I.,  «.  n.  299,  and  regard  S. 
Ciriaco  as  its  first  bishop.  From  Ihe 
earliest  limes,  as  St.  Augastin  men- 
tions, Ihe  iiopr,  when  not  alreadf  a 

by  tlw  bishop  of  Ostia,  who  is  always 
a  cardinal  and  the  senior  member  of 
(lie  Sacred  College.  The  see  was 
united  to  that  of  Vellptri  b;  Eugc- 
I>it»  III.  in  1150.  and  is  still  held  in 
conjunction  with  thai  diocese. 

The  chief  interest  of  Ostia  at  the 
presenl  time  is  derived  from  theesca- 
vitions  begun  among  Ihe  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  at  Ihe  close  of  the  last 
century.  Tbe  site  of  aocient  Oatia  is 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  modem  vU- 
Uge.  Thi>  celebrated  city,  according 
to  Ihe  united  testimony  of  Ihe  Latin 
hiatorians,  was  founded  by  Aucui  Mst- 
tius  as  tlie  port  of  Itome,  and  for  many 
cenluries  was  the  scene  of  theembark- 
aljon  of  several  important  eipeditions 
til  the  distant  pr     ' 


tury  is  the  last  K> 
and  fram  that  lim 
contained  SO.OOO 

marked  by  (o^ 


s,  felt  in 


of  buildingi 

Di  interior  arehileoture,  in  a  gr*st 
measure  concealed  by  brambles  and 
thickets.  Itismoreremarkableforthe 
eicavalioni  which  have  been  made 
upon  Ihe  spot  than  fat  Ihe  intereat  of 
Ihe  ruins.  The  most  important  build. 
ings  of  which  any  vestiges  remain  are 
a  Icmple  and  a  theatre.  The  TWn^ 
was  bLlf,tt  ofbricbiand  decorated  with 
columns  of  the  Corinthian  order:  the 
niches  of  Ihe   interior,  and  some  re- 


thaci 


lU  of  the  portici 


,  Blill  he 


Of  It 


Lable 


for  8,«i 


n  of  Sci|m 
that  of  Claudius  on 
0  Britain.  The  port, 
however,  hod  even  then  become  seri- 
ously affected  by  ilia  increaaing  de- 
posits of  the  Tiber :  aaudlut  had 
already  begun  the  new  harbour  of 
Porto  on  ihe  right  arm  of  the  river  ; 
and  In  the  time  of  Stralio  the  port  of 
O-iM  vaa  almost,  if  not  entirely,  fliled 
u|>.  TTie  fame  of  the  grjat  temple  of 
Cantor  and  Pollux,  the  S-ien  Cauro- 


1.  Ihe 


villu 


of  tbe  Roman  patricians  abundantly 
scattered  on  the  coast,  and  Che  crowds 
of  people  who  freijuented  its  shores 
fur  tile  benefit  of  (ea-hathine,  >u«-' 
lained  the  prosperity  of  Ihe  cily  for 


after  \ 


harbour  i    but    the   gi 

ance  of  the  new  town  of  Porlo  | 

dually   led  to  iti  decay,  and  in 


with  niches,  ealled  tl 
curio,  whioh  retains  some  ancient 
paintings  tolerably  prcwrved.  The 
Thtalri,  near  the  modern  churoh  of 
St.  Sebastian,  is  remarhable  aa  the 
spot  on  which  many  early  Christiana 
suffered  martyrdom  :  the  aemiciroular 
walls,  a  few  of  the  seats  and  pilailcn, 
RTealill  visible.      The  only  other  ruint 

of  a  piscina,  and  wme  unimportant 
foundations  of  the  cily  walls.  Tha 
eieaTations  Irom  which  these  raim 
derire  their  greatest  interest  were  be. 
gun,  as  we  have  already  staled,  about 
the  close  of  tbe  last  century.  Amoeg 
the  earliest  discoverers  were  our  coun- 
trymen, Gavin  Hamilton  and  Mr, 
Pagan,  the  Brilish  consul  al  Roma, 
by  whose  researches  the  well-known 
bust  of  the  young  Augustus,  tbe 
Ganymede  of  Phedimus,  and  other 
beautiful  aculptures  in  the  Vatican 
Museum  were  brought  to  light.  Id 
)S03  Ihe  great  eicaiations  were  be- 
gun under  the  direction  of  Pius  VII.,   * 

yeara  with  the  mut  istitfiiclory  re- 
sulls  :  indeed,  there  is  scarcely  a  pagB 
of  our  account  of  the  Vatican  collce- 
tion  which  does  not  bear  recard  of 
tha  im^oitftM  w™V.»iiVJ.A>-^w«'*«^ 


Noliri 


dms     I 


dueoTeria,  there  i>  no  doubt 
Dummnu  limekilni  in  the  wond  at 
OflU  h«Te  far  ccoturiet  been  supplied 
vitb  iiHienl  rnvblek  When  PocKio 
Tinted  Osila  oitb  Cosmo  di*  Medici, 
they  found  Ihe  peopli 


3M   HOME  (Otiia).  [.S*Ct.t 

!  I  The  view  a  w  mnaikable   Ibat  iW 
!  I  clauiea)  taurist  wlH  not  lu)  u>  » 
rpoK  of  eoTUpviitf!  n 
tlw  well-liDown  deteriptum  of  Vb^O* 
whicb  (till  ipplie*  to  the  loealitj  ia 
all  teipecu  but  the  woods,  wliieti  hao 
the   ri-et- 


I 


la  1821  Kgnar  Cartuni  of  Koi 

««it  side  of  modem  Oitii,  bejf 
wwlii  of  the  ancient  ciif.  Tlic 
of  hit  lewsrclws  vw  the  discmi-ry  of 

■eriptions  and  some  iirw  sarcophagi. 
In  one  of  Ihe  tombs  be  Ibuiifl  the  most 
beuitiful  nrcophagui  vhieli  ha<  yet 
been  obtained  from  the  ruins  of  Ostia : 
it  ii  o(  vhitG  marble,  catered  with 
mjtuute  bai-relieft  reprcMOting  the 
vtdt  of  Diaoa  to  Endymion.  Tlie 
ConmLssioDen  of  the  Fine  Arts  im- 
Ittcdiately  claimed  it  for  the  Vi 

dinal-bishop.  on  whose  letritorieq 

WB  found,  8.  Cartoni  »aa  pemiitli 

to  sell   it   lo  the  late  Lord  Wester 

and  it  u  now  in  England 

■cum  at  FcIiK  Hall  in  E« 

The   Tom    Bsraedana,  incndoned    j 

above  u  hasiag  been  built  by  Juliu 

U.  while  cardinal  biihi^  of  the  dio-   u-e"'  ""  ■■•'  -»>"•'•>  w  • 

ceie.  ii  also  remsrLable  fur  the  eica-    without  lisiting  Cattd  Fus 
vations  made  in  iu  vidnity  by  Mr,    many  perse  ''       "* 

FagsninlT9T.      The  fine  sUlues  of  tercstlng  ol .  _ 

Fortune  and  Antinous  in  the  Ntioro  i       Between   moden    Ostia  i 
Braecio    of   the    Vatican,    the    thn:e  ,  Torre  Bovacciaoa  the  Tiber  B 
Hermes    of    Mercury,    the    colossal    bend  al  the  south-easton  angle  of  thai 
busta    of    Claudius    and    Antoninu'i    Iwla  Sacra ;  in   this  bar  man]  ai    ' 
Pius,  the  biuli  of  Lucius  Verus,  Ti-  |  quaries  haie  filed  the  position  of  dl»J 
berius,  and   Commodui,  the   Hygeia. ,  ancient   runditead,  while  otben  « 

and  the  semi-coloual   statue  of  Mi' ,  more  probability  have  recognised  to  i«fl 

.Xerra  in  the  same  museum,  were  the  ,  ifae  semicircular  bank  of  and  clewV 
nsulls  of  these  researches  which  do  to  Torre  Bovacciaoa.  Thia  l«Mr| 
boDouT  to  the  skill  and  enterprise  of  locality  agrees  more  accurately  «~  ~ 

.our  couniryman.      The  view  froin  11;        ' 

lumniil  of  the  Torre  DoTaccianacom-jreipecttag  the  moulb  of  tbc   Tlbal^fl 

jiMods  tbe  couneof  the  left  branch  of  I  which  is  now  no  less  than  lhr«e  00" 

tbe  Tiber  by  which  JEncai 'la  ou^  W> ,  ftuxaav  tm^niAvc  modem  villaga. 

cmrrLabUmarterhuflighlftomTio].  Sa  liso  TOiSamA.  ■«) -iw  »  ■  ■ 


Fapat  States."]    excursions  prom  romk  (Fiumieino), 

Hial   the  Ci 


lojcd  the  Ronian  fleet 
commanded  bj  a  consul  while  it  was 
itstioned  In  the  hatbuur,  vould  not 

bour  had  lieen  M  near  llie  city  as  the 
other  laeatity  voold  assume.  Thia 
exploit  of  the  corsain,  which  led  lo 
the  eipedilion  of  Pompey  against  Ci- 
licln,  is  irell  known  la  achuUrs  by 
the  indignant  denunciation  of  Cicero 
in  hU  oration  "  pro  Lego  Manilla:" 
—  Namiiuiil  ego  Oilicnit  iTaeomnuidim 
atque  iilam  Uihtn  atque  iffnaminian 
reipubliea  quterar,  quum  propt  insjHK- 

pxli   Rama 

ciana,  and 
mouth  of 


rfa     atqM     oppritia     at. 
ilc  below    Torre    Bovac- 


oiding   I 


1   Micbele,  XI 
ilt  in  1569  b] 

It  ii    - 


quenily  altributed  lo  Michael  Angelo, 
but  the  date  gi'en  by  this  iuscriptioo 
sufficiently  proves  that  it  is  consider- 
ably later  than  bis  time. 

Near  the  Totre   Bovaceiana  is  a 
ferry  to  the  liala  Sacra,  a  snndy  and 

ference,  lying  between  the  two 
branches  of  the  Tiber.  It  is  lup- 
pased  la  have  been  flm  iuFulaled 
when  Trajan  constructed  the  canal  of 
Porto:  it  is  not  mentioned  by  any 
clHBUcal  authorities,  and  the  Temple 
of  ApollOi  from  which  Vol  pi  imagined 
that  it  derived  the  name  of  Insula 
SacrB,  has  no  eiiBlenee  hut  in  the 
fancy  of  that  antiquary  and  hU  fiil- 
lowers.  It  is  nutioed  fur  the  first 
nous  geographer  of 


"  I.ili 


s  Alniin  VeiuT 


Ted  either  IVoni 


from  the  church  and  tomb  of  S.  Ip- 
polilo,  bishop  of  Porto,  whose  tower 
is  still  standing.  Crossing  the  island 
we  arrive  at  the  right  branch  of  the 
Tiber,  and  cross  by  b  ferry  to  Fiumi- 
cino  and  Porto. 


FlUMIClHD    AHn    PoKTO. 


Byth 


id  from  Rome  Fiu- 
lore  than  17  miles 
from  the  PorU  Porttse.  It  ia  built 
on  the  right  or  western  branch  of  the 
Tiber,  an  artificial  culling  supposed 
to  have  bcfo  originally  formed  bjr 
Trajan  as  a  canal  for  his  new  colony 
of  Porto,  and  now  the  prinoip*! 
channel  of  communication  between 
the  capital  and  the  sea.  The  rotd 
leaves  Rome  by  the  Porta  Portese, 
and  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half  tra- 
verses the  ancient  Via  Partueosis, 
when  it  branches  off  lo  the  right,  and 
proceeds  in  a  direct  line  over  the  billa 
of  a  Antonio  and  Capo  di  FeiTo  t« 
Ponle  Galera,  where  it  crosses  the  Oa. 
lera  or  Acqua  Sonn,  noticed  in  tlic  Jour- 
ney from  CivitoVecchia  to  Eunie,  An 
uninteresting  tract  of  flat  sandy  eoun- 
try,  live  miles  in  length,  brings  ui  td 
[he  ruins  of  Porto,  the  ancient  Porlni 
Trajanus  founded  by  Claudius  and 
enlarged  by  Tiajan  as  the  great  naval 
arsenal  of  Rame.  I'ho  basin  oon- 
atructed  by  Claudius  was  circular,  anil 
formed  the  outertJrbour;  the  larger 
basin  of  Trajan  waf  he»agonal.  Fot 
manycenturics  this  remarkable  under- 
taking   has   been    the  a '    ' 


in  of  ic 


ee.     Piui 


II.  andSiitusIV.  • 
pressed  with  ita  magnificei 
lidity,  that  they  were  anxious  to  re- 
atorHiltoitsancientpurpose.  Biotldo 
and  MatTei  dcKribed  it  as  one  of  the 
wanders  of  Italy,  and  Pirro  Ligorio 
published  a  plan  of  the  ruins  as  tbej 
were  visible  in  bis  day.  The  mole* 
formed  for  the  eitemal  defence  of  the 
harbour  are  still  traceable,  and  the 
supposed  site  of  the  Pbiros  constructed 
by  Claudius  on  the  wreck  oftbc  ship 
which  brought  his  two  obelisks  from 
Kgypt,  is  also  pointed  out ;  but  with- 


sxcuRsiONS  FROM  aoiiz  (Casltl  Fusouo).    [^SoefL 

kc  ruini  irould  Iw  iatelll 
eiUci    md   c*e°   Ibco    much    wuuld    Ibc  bubofiB  aT  ^hIo,  atid-i 
nccetarilf  b*  mere  mnjeclura.      The    we  Mill  ice  the  an: 
bviagoDBl  bvdn  of  Tngan.  G*1W  by    VI..wlior»i(KeduK 
tbe  country -prople   il  TVqfmiii.  mm-    The  uTigstiiMi  of  die  richt 
nuninia  *ilh  that  of  Claudiiu  tijr  a    the  Tiber  wu  re-opnaed  ik 
eao^  :   it  ii  DDi  l«i  iban  ■  mile  and  ^  Paul  V..  ajid  u  one  of  die  i| 
■  half  in  ciKumfetencc  I     VoLpi  de-  |  Nn«t|u*DC»  of  that 
aariba   lonie    of  tlie   luooitag-potU,    *iliiig<  graijuallj  fanned. 
w'ah  Ibeir  ounibcis  ■>  >1>11  eulire  in    of  Ibe  liter,  whi^ 
hia  time.      In  differenl  |<arti  of  the '  riumicino    fioni   Hi 
baan  are   the   renuins  of  eno 
T";-*'*"*!    aiul   numerous   ^i 
,  liuililiag  aiul  repairing  tesseli 
w«    know   no   spot    where   eii 
ucAvatiom  wouLd  be  produe 


tbe  naral  eitablishmenu  of  the  Ra 
man  empire.  The  luini  of  ih*  cii] 
of  Porto  are  *o  iireguUr  and  encum- 

leiUDt  to  describe  them  in  detail :  the 

temple,  aud  ioiae  othm  ud- 
rulni  are  traceable,  but 
ent  no  olun;!*  of  ilriking 
Under  tlie  lo»e>  empire 
11   ■   place   of  coDUderd>le 


I    br    of  llw  Tiber.      In  1833 

and    THiient  hou«a  and  a  good 
■uire  I  creeled  here  bf  ih<  UeBHircc.giaRal 
ve  of^  Cristaldi,  and  the  Romans  be^aanl^ 
''    ~         '        *  tbe  abject  of  a  da;^  cxcbT' 


BOO,  dining  at  tbe  in 


Bthee< 


TWbi^ 


oflht 


ludioprie  as  earljr  ai  the  3rd  ccDtury. 
•ndbeonine  remarkable  for  themsiljr- 
ikai  of  S.  Ippoliio.  in  the  pontiEule 
Of  &  Cal'ului  I.  The  cii.v  iras  en- 
luged  bf  CimctaDtine.  and  wai  fjr 
nmny  ccDluries  the  most  important 
poaitiaa   in    the    neiglibi 


tuous  dinner  protided  Umm  te  tt* 
Craud-Duch«  Helena,  who  tte 
■  ititcd  Ostia  i  lev  year*  bbcc; 
wid,  and  we  bdieie  with  iwv^  ihtf 
it  wai  the  only  agreeable  pan  at  hd 
tipeditioo.  The  emrancie  t»  ih* 
Ehannel  of  Fiumicino  is  lery  iHiH> 
and  occaiionally  diffiviUl :  tbe  tm> 
rent  of  the  tiyer,  thuitKh  deejii  ■•(*• 
tnnnely  rapid,  and  il  hvi  bec«  fcat^ 
necoasuy  to  protect  ilie  baiika  bf  |mIh 
lor    a  consider^lc    diilancb       Ite 


if  e'vat  labour,  but  lh«  «■• 


lopcdk. 


e  lUpplics  of  and  teewk  are  now  repiUrij 
grain  which  weie  liiidiJ  tliere  frem  up  the  tiier  to  tbe  Kipa  CimmIk 
nrious  part!  of  the  Medilerrani.'an.  Hie  tower  of  Fiumicino,  boOl  hf 
It  vai  be«eged  and  capiured  several  Aleiaiidei  VX.,  ii  a  ^"gr  aq  ~~ 
tims  during  the  Gothic  war :  iu  408  j  structure  Eve  (tori«  bigb.  aad 
■1  was  taken  b^  Alarie ;  in  43i,  by  |  mounted  by  a  beacon  to  point  oM  Ita 
Geaaetie;  in  S37,  by  Viug«;  in  S45.  i  narrow  entraucc  of  tli 
by  Totila;  In  Iho  same  year  it  ■ 
taken  by  Belisarius;  in  51S  it  • 


CjisntL   Fls 


In  the  9th  c 


e  Grevk  ei 


n  Oitia  to  Caitel 
Kiied  by  ,  old  caxirllaied  casino  bdoagiaf  __ 
ii  only  fur  ,  the  Chigi  ftmlly.  Il  is  prettily  dlD- 
•  fcw  years, 
abandoned.  '  not  w  venerable  as  the  PineU  of  Bfc 

Fiti-Hit-iHoii  about  ■  mile  and  a  half  i  renna.  but  bearing  a  great  liiaUa 
teyond  the  niins.  The  road  ^uaes  to  that  clasdeal  forvM.  Tbt  cm 
^f  ttw  VeSOOralD,  ot  caateHaiBi  toan-  ,  w»»  ^wi^v 'ai  *■  \"  "i.  waturj  by 


Papal  States,']   excursions  prom  rome  (Tor  Patemo).    599 


Marquis  Sacchetti,  who  was  then  pro- 
prietor of  the  district,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  curious  examples  of  the  for- 
tified country  Tillas  of  that  period. 
In  order  to  protect  it  from  the  incur- 
sions of  the  pirates  it  has  low  towers 
at  the  angles  fortified  with  loopholes, 
and  the  staircase  in  the  interior  is 
little  better  than  a  ladder  by  which 
only  one  person  can  ascend  at  a  time. 
On  the  summit  of  the  central  tower 
are  two  stone  figures  of  sentinels, 
placed  there  to  deceive  the  pirates  by 
an  appearance  of  protection.  In  spite 
of  these  indications  of  danger,  the 
apartments  are  decorated  with  paint- 
ings, and  fitted  up  in  the  usual  style 
of  the  Roman  palaces.  In  the  last 
century  the  property  was  sold  by  the 
Marquis  Sacchetti  to  the  Chigi  family, 
who  improved  the  pine  plantations 
and  contributed  to  the  embellishment 
of  the  casino.  In  front  of  the  house 
is  a  fine  avenue  leading  in  a  direct 
line  to  the  sea-shore,  opened  by  Prince 
Sigismondo  Chigi,  and  paved  with 
large  polygonal  blocks  of  lava  taken 
from  the  ancient  Via  Severiana.  The 
same  prince,  who  was  well  known  for 
his  literary  tastes,  placed  in  this 
avenue  eight  terminal  cippi  to  mark 
the  distance  of  eight  stadia,  or  an  an- 
cient Roman  mile.  The  casino  is 
interesting  to  the  scholar  as  marking 
the  site  of  Pliny's  Laurentine  villa, 
which  he  describes  with  so  much  en- 
thusiasm. Some  remains  of  founda- 
tions are  still  visible,  and  some  in- 
scriptions relating  to  the  limits  of 
Laurentum  and  Ostia  are  preserved 
in  the  cottage  of  the  guardiano,  and 
in  different  parts  of  the  casino.  The 
rosemary,  for  which  it  was  celebrated 
in  the  time  of  Pliny,  still  grows  abun- 
dantly on  the  coast.  The  proper 
season  for  enjoying  a  residence  at 
Castel  Fusano  is  the  spring ;  in  sum- 
mer it  swarms  with  mosquitoes,  and 
is  not  free  from  the  suspicion  of 
malaria. 

Proceeding  along  the  shore  we  enter 
the  Laurentine  forest,  which  skirts 
the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  in  an 
almost  uninterrupted  line  for  nearly 


sixty  miles.  It  spreads  inland  to  the 
distance  of  three  miles  firom  the  coast, 
and  abounds  with  buffaloes,  wild 
boars,  and  occasionally  with  wolves. 
As  we  draw  near  Tor  Paterno  it  is 
filled  with  gigantic  groves  of  the  stone- 
pine,  the  ilex,  the  wild  olive,  &c.,  and 
is  utterly  deserted  except  by  the  pro- 
fessed hunter  or  a  few  charcoal- 
burnersy  whose  fires  are  now  and  then 
seen  among  the  dense  thickets  of  the 
forest : 

•*  Bia  aenm  pepigere  dies,  et,  pace  sequestra. 
Per  sylvas  Teucri  mixtique  impune  Latini, 
Erravere  Jugis.    Ferro  sonat  icta  bipenni 
Fraxinus  ;  evertunt  actas  ad  sidera  pinus; 
Robora,  nee  cuneis  et  olentem  scindere 

cedrum, 
Nee  plauittrit  cessant  vectare  gementibus 


omos.' 


JEn.  xi.  133. 


Tor  Paterno  (Laurektum), 

about  7  miles  from  Castel  Fusano,  a 
solitary  tower,  distant  about  half  a 
mile  firom  the  sea,  built  upon  the 
ruins  of  an  Imperial  villa,  and  now 
inhabited  by  a  few  sickly  soldiers  be- 
longing to  the  coast-guard.  The 
Italian  antiquaries  for  many  genera- 
tions have  identified  this  spot  with 
the  site  of  the  famous  city  of  Lauren- 
tum,  the  most  ancient  capital  of  La- 
tium,  founded  80  years  before  the 
taking  of  Troy,  and  celebrated  by 
Virgil  -as  the  residence  of  Father 
Latinus  when  iEneas  landed  there  on 
his  arrival  in  Italy,  and  married  his 
daughter  Lavinia.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  Laurentum  must  have 
stood  in  the  vicinity  of  Tor  Paterno ; 
but  the  flatness  of  the  ground  and 
its  proximity  to  the  sea  have  led  those 
writers  who  wi&h  to  apply  the  de- 
scriptions of  the  poet  to  the  modem 
topography  of  the  coast,  to  doubt 
whether  Tor  Paterno  can  be  regarded 
as  the  exact  locality.  The  "  vasta 
pains'*  and  the  **ardua  moenia**of  the 
twelfth  ^neid  would  doubtless  indi- 
cate a  city  built  upon  an  eminence 
overlooking  an  extensive  marsh ;  and 
hence  Professor  Nibby,  who  examined 
every  foot  of  ground  lor  miles  be- 
tween Pratica  and  Ostia,  peremptorily 
rejects  Tor  Paterno,  and  fixes  the  situ 


■t    lh«    h«nilct  of  CaparnUa, 
BorgliM    |iTD(H-rtf.    abuul 
fcrthrr  inUnd.      Theie  u 
[    amy    ruim     M    Capoiotta,    uui    ine 
I    graund    i*    coTirtd    wiih    fragaiRita 
I  fumdl   up    by  the   plough,  »nd  the 
L  Mhuadano*  of  w«ter  will  Mnily  ex- 
LpMn  the  pouibility  of  m  Imr^  Irncl 
■if  nanh  )u*iiig  ititetveoed  brtween 
Mil  and  th*  m  ■■  tliat  ditunt  pi^riod. 
BfTor     PaUtno    atands    ■>    ve    hiiTe 
f  idmdy  utaud,  on  the  ruins  of  an  an- 
'     1  lilU  :   frara  the  pcculiarltiM  of 


.n   tlic    bytl,l 


iarding  it 
J  Cmniiwdusn 
2  Tha  laurel-g 
■  which  it  deri 


i   tlie 


u  climate.     The  old  br 
I  "vhioh  still  rormsacnnspicuous  uli 
n  atl  pnrtg  uf  tlie  Alban  hills, 
I  «  pUce  of  aonie  ilrengtli  even  in 
~  Dt  years,  >nd  was    dismantled    by 
e  Engliib  cruiicn  during  Ihe  war 
oi'  IBOD.     The  shares  of  Laurentura 
ue   itill    nmarkablE   for    the    frogs, 
whose  «nce8lori  were  celebrated  by 
Martini  aa  the  sole 


but  loiiper  road 
ID  trace  of  Poroigiiano.  which  falls  into 
road  from  Rome  to  CHtra  a 
teria  di  Malafcde.  Before 
teed  sout1iir»rii  it  will  lie  dniiab)^ 
IQ  obuin  a  guide  at  Tor  Paten 
may  conduct  the  traveller  throiigl 
Ihe  forest  to  Fratico.  fi»e  miles  dl 
tant,  as  the  tracks  of  the  charcm 
burners  are  not  always  sufficient  I 
euide  him  (hrouyh  the  desolate  vit 
deriiess  which  lies  beiweea  ihem. 

villa   to    which  PaiTici  (Lavihidm). 

[ThcK  is  a  small  locanda  here  who 

betl  may  be  obtained,  but  it  ii  tc^ 

9up-  I  miserable,  and  the  travellet  muiC  li« 

irity    prepui^d  to  put  up  with  Hi  diacom* 

'*>rt,   which   is  certainly   not   greater 

lan  he  tuighl  expect  to  fiod  in  sa^ 

pliee.]     Pratiea   is  distant  ab<!i4 

"      '■      "         "  3  from    ■ 


n  Ardea 


is  the 


it^u'^r^r^^JS 


Borne,  pasMng  thrQURh  thi 
Deeimo.  The  ancient  pi 
perfect  for  several  miles,  bu 


of  the  city  uf 
Lavinium,  founded  by  J^oeai  ill 
honour  of  Ids  wife  Lavioia,  Bhedaugb-i 
ter  of  litinus,  and  the  metropolii  of 
the  Latin  confederation  after  the  de- 
cay of  Laurentum:  precisely  at  AllA 
Longa  aflcrwards  became  their  coital 

Ihe  increasing  population.  It  is 
ated  on  a  strip  of  table. land  a 
650  yards  long  by  ISO  brood,  ani 
olTfrom  the  rest  of  the  plain  by  de^ 
>  glens,  eicept  at  the  point  where  it  is 
'     onnected  with  it  by  a  natural  bridga 


the  I 


ft 


bioelts  h»™  been   tiisplaced  by  their 
roots.     It   is  much   to  be   regretted 

this  road  hai  not  been  kept  open: 

__..   views  in  different   parts  of  the 

;lbreat  are  of  tbe  gtandesl  character, 

!  road  were  practicable,  it 

■would    be 


'    them 


The 


riiUn'c 


e  than 


myoi 


red. 


We  may  easily 
tbe  record  of 

Ihe  Palrii  Dei  Ijtdigcfii,  the  title  bj 

which  the  Herouni  was  dedicated  V 

leas  afier  he  disHppeared   in    tbi 

micua.      Some  vestiges  of  tbe  an- 

it  city  walls  nuy  be  traced,  but 

■a  Tor    few  and  unimporMnt.      Pratica  c 


-    of  « 

1 1  ^asanw  who  come  from  di 


Papctl  StatesJ^     sxcursions  from  home  {Ardea). 


601 


to  seek  occupation  in  the  fields.  The 
place  is  heavily  afflicted  with  malaria, 
of  whose  fatal  influence  the  coun- 
tenances of  the  inhabitants  bear  a  me- 
lancholy proof.  The  large  baronial 
mansion  of  the  Borghese  femily,  built 
in  the  17th  century,  contains  a  few 
inscriptions  discovered  on  the  spot, 
which  are  valuable  as  placing  beyond  a 
doubt  the  site  of  the  Trojan  city.  Its 
lofly  tower,  rising  ^om  the  centre  of 
the  building,  commands  one  of  the 
most  imposing  panoramas  which  the 
scholar  or  the  artist  can  enjoy  in  this 
part  of  Italy.  It  embraces  the  whole 
coast  from  Ostia  to  Porto  d*Anzo, 
the  Circaean  promontory,  the  Vol- 
scian  mountxuns,  the  group  of  the 
Alban  mount,  the  Sabine  hills,  and 
the  ridge  of  Monte  Cimino,  the  cupo- 
las  and  palaces  of  Rome^  and  the 
whole  plain  of  the  Campagna.  There 
is  a  direct  road  practicable  for  car- 
riages from  Pratica  to  Rome,  distant 
18  miles:  it  joins  the  ancient  Via 
Ardeatina  at  the  Solfatara,  and  pro- 
ceeds thence  in  a  straight  line  to 
Rome,  passing  the  Tre  Fontane  and 
the  basilica  of  S.  Paolo.  Another  road 
leads  across  the  country  from  the  Sol- 
£itara  to  Alba  no. 

About  midway  between  Pratica 
and  Ardca  is  the  torrent  correctly 
called  the  Rio  TurtOt  identified  by  the 
best  modern  antiquaries  with  the  clas- 
sical Numicus  in  which  ^neas  was 
drowned.  If  we  follow  this  torrent 
to  its  junction  with  the  sea,  we  shall 
find  that  it  forms  an  immense  tract  of 
marsh,  well  known  by  the  engraving 
in  the  Duchess  of  Devonshire's  beau- 
tiful edition  of  the  iEneid  of  Anni- 
balc  Caro.  Virgil  commemorates  the 
**  fontis  stagna  Numici  ;*'  and  Ovid, 
describing  the  fate  of  Anna  Perenna, 
mentions  the  same  marshes : 

"  Corniger  banc  cupidif  rapuiue  Numlciuf 
undis 
Creditur  et  ftagnu  occoluiue  suis.'* 

Fasti  iii.  647. 

On  the  right  bank  of  this  stream  is 
the  plain  called  the  Campo  Jemini, 
in  which  the  antiquaries  place  the 
site  of  the  great  lauctuaries  of  ancient 
Cent.  It, 


Latium,  the  grove  of  Pater  Indiges, 
the  temple  of  Anna  Perenna,  the 
Aphrodisium,  and  the  great  temple  of 
Venus  which  was  common  to  all  the 
Latin  tribes.  That  part  of  the  Campo 
Jemini  which  is  nearest  to  the  Torre 
Vajanico  was  excavated  in  1794  at  the 
cost  of  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  of  Sussex, 
when  several  important  sculptures 
were  brought  to  light,  among  which 
was  a  statue  of  Venus  in  Greek  mar- 
ble. The  Roman  emperors  kept  an 
establishment  for  breeding  elephants 
in  the  territory  between  Ardea  and 
Laurentum.  The  classical  tourist 
will  not  fail  to  observe  that  the  cot- 
tages which  he  will  pass  throughout 
this  district,  are  all  constructed  in  the 
tent-like  form  described  by  Virgil. 

Ardxa, 

6  miles  from  Pratica,  still  retains  the 
**  mighty  name  *'  of  the  Argive  capital 
of  Tumus,  king  of  the  Rutuli,  though 
its  population  has  dwindled  down  to 
less  than  100  souls : 

'*  Locus  Ardea  quondam 
Dictuf  avis,  et  nunc  magnum  manet  Ardea 


Dom^i. 


JEn.  vii.  411. 


[There  is  a  small  wine-shop  at  Ardea 
where  travellers  may  obtain  refresh- 
ments ;  but  the  best  plan  is  to  procure 
an  order  from  the  Cesarini  family  at 
Rome,  which  will  obtain  accommoda- 
tion in  their  castle.]  Ardea  occupies 
the  crest  of  a  lofty  rock  of  tufa,  distant 
four  miles  from  the  sea,  and  insulated 
by  deep  natural  ravines  except  at  one 
point,  where  it  is  united  to  the  table- 
land by  a  natural  isthmus,  in  which 
three  deep  ditches  have  been  cut. 
The  rock  on  which  the  modern  village 
is  built  was  the  ancient  citadel,  the 
city  having  extended  over  a  large 
tract  of  the  plain  below,  where  some 
lofty  mounds  resembling  the  agger  of 
Servius  TuUius  at  Rome  remain  to 
show  how  strongly  it  was  fortified. 
Tlie  entrance-gate  is  under  the  north 
extremity  of  the  baronial  numsion  of 
the  dukes  of  Cesarini,  to  whom  the 
whole  country  belongs,  from  the  lake 
of  Nemi  to  the  coast.     The  approach 


B^IB  the  gitc  uid  ilic  uppcunHivo  of  tlia 
mtoA    fruia    nil    |Ht>  ur  Uic  i>Uiu  is 
■Jiogly  picturuquci  but  the  mit- 

[■  i(  nlmoW  dMiilML  On  the 
of  lliu  nMk  li>tining  the  bounil- 
>f  the  modi-ni  village,  wu  mtj 
*Oiua  Lighlj  intlructite  frag- 
I  of   Itw    will*   of  tl>c   Bncient 


1  thoy  HI 


1  of  lufii,  itrogiibuly  put 
without  cenwiil,  and  are 
lit  bo  clawd  among  tha 
lampla  of  lhi>  kind  uf  con- 
Ardva,  ai  Ilie  capital  of 
.11  conipicuoiu  in  Ibe  mnof 
lb*  i£iund;  it  ia  renuikable  bIeo  fui 
iU  ii*Ke  by  Taiquiniiu  Suporbiu,  and 
lb(  tlMMjlum  Uaflbrdijdtn  Cimillus 
during  hu  eiile;  he  dcrcalal  lircn- 
DU*  and  the  Gauli  bcnesih  its  whIIs, 
and  was  rasidiiig  there  when  he  \rm 
(tectnl  Hi  "  ■  "  '  " 


tlie  capiUl  of  the  VoUci,  and  one  of 
the  muBi  Important  ports  of  Impaiol 
ItaiKc.  There  a  a  small  inn  wlrars 
[ravcllen  nn;  find  tolerable  aaaaia- 
moiiatton,  Antium,  in  tlie  euly 
hislor;  of  Ilalj,  was  Ibe  mont  lluunab- 
ing  eit;  on  this  coast,  and  is  distio- 
guished  b;  Dion^aius  by  tbe  ^otfaet 
■■most  splenilid."  It  is  more  iota- 
testing  to  the  traveller  lu  tfae  ijwt 
vbeio  Coiiolanns,  "a  name  umniui- 
I  m1  Co  the  Volsciani'  ears,*  stood  U 
the  palaoe  of  hii  encni;,  and  voved 
vengeance  againat  hia  ungntetid 
cDimtrjmen : 


a  Rom. 


indcrUke  III 


of  Veil,  ll  U  about  S2  miles  iVum 
Rome:  the  road  (bllows  the  Via  Ar. 
dcalioa,  which  is  still  perfect  in  many 
>  the    Rio   Torto  at 


tha  ehur 


I   of  8 


jomed  by  the  cross-road  fi-om  Pr 
at  the  Soltklara,  whence  it  proceeds  to 
Rome  by  Tra  Fontaoe  and  S.  Paolo. 
Leaving  Ardeo,  we  descend  tlie 
valley  of  the  Rio  Felice  to  the  sea- 
shore, and  after  cnuung  the  stream  of 
the  Fonte  della  Moleta  arrive  at  a 
la^e  tower  called  the  Tor  di  S,  Lo- 

our  excursion  in  a  line  irllh  the  coast, 
and  enter  the  country  of  the  Volaci, 
The  road  lies  Ihrough  dense  bul  pic- 
turesque fbrebts  of  oak  and  ilti,  here 
and  there  interspersed  with  curk-trees 
and  myrtles.  The  sea  in  bright  wea- 
ther exhibits  the  most  beu.utiriil  eifects 
of  colour,  somelimes  appearing  of  a 
deep  u1liHmarine,andBt others,  where 
the  water  is  ahsllow,  assuming  a  lint 
of  brilliant  green  which  it  is  impoB- 


^      01 

I-" 

H;;^6  mites   fro. 

^B^tiveufihece 


■Asz 


CA»TIV«), 

dcityof  Antiun 


^iSri^lnVt^ 


Tbe  piratical  expeditions  of  the  inba- 
bilants  led  lo  Irequenl  contests  with 
Itume ;  the  city  was  captured  by  Ci> 
millusHndC.  MsniusNepoB,ii.c3aT, 
and  Ihe  rostra  of  their  ships  were  sus- 
pended in  the  Forum.  After  tkis 
period  it  remained  oomparatively  de- 
populated for  four  centuries,  alihoo^ 
the  climate  and  scenery  still  attraded 
Ibe  Romans  to  its  neighbourbood. 
Cicero  had  a  villa  at  Antium,  and 
another  at  Astura,  lower  down  die 
coast,  which  be  describes  In  hislelten 
to  Atticu!.  The  city  was  theUrtb- 
place  of  Nero,  who  restored  it  oa  ■ 
scale  fer  surpos^g  its  ancient  gran- 


temples,  and  iuduced  many  of  the 
rich  putriciiuis  to  build  villas  on  ib 
shores.  The  two  moles  consttudad 
by  Nero  stdl  remain,  a  fine  eumjja 
of  imperial  architecture.  They  ate. 
about  thirty  feet  In  thickness,  built  of 
large  blocks  of  tula  united  1^  poizo. 
Isna ;  and  stand,  like  all  tbe  ancient 
moles  of  wbicli  we  have  any  record, 
upon  arches.  One  of  them  is  STOO 
feet  in  length,  the  other  1600:  tbey 
inclosed  an  immense  basin,  nearly  ai 
broad  S9  the  length  of  llie  largest 
mote.      A  pharos  is  supjmscd  lo  ' 


Papal  States,']  excursioks  from  i^OHVi  {Porto  ^  Anzo),    608 


stood  on  the  insulated  rock  at  the 
flouthom  entrance  of  the  harbour. 
About  the  close  of  the  1 7th  century 
Innocent  XII.  formed  a  nAw  port 
from  t^e  designs  of  Zinaghi,  who 
added  a  short  pier  at  right  angles  with 
the  eastern  mole,  and  filled  up  the 
ppen  arches  of  the  Roman  construe* 
tion.  The  result,  as  might  have  been 
anticipated,  was  the  rapid  disposition 
of  sand,  which  has  accumulated  to  so 
great  an  extent  that  both  ports  are 
now  useless  except  for  vessels  of  small 
tonnage.  Beyond  this  we  see  be- 
neath the  Villa  Borghese  the  remains 
of  the  Pamfiliau  mole,  constructed 
some  years  afterwards  in  the  belief 
that  it  would  prevent  the  depo^tions ; 
but  it  has  only  added  to  the  evil,  and 
the  magnificent  harbour  is  now  com- 
pletely ruined.  The  old  tower  and 
fortifications  w  e  dismantled  by  the 
£nglish  cruisers  during  their  operar 
tions  on  the  coast  in  the  war  of  1813. 
Porto  d'Anzo  was  an  important  sta- 
tion intermediate  between  Gaeta  and 
Leghorn,  and  it  was  considered  ne- 
cessary to  destroy  it  in  order  to  pre- 
vent its  affording  shelter  to  the  small 
erafl  of  the  enemy. 

The  ruins  of  ancient  Antium  have 
not  been  thoroughly  explored,  and 
some  high  mounds  seen  on  entering 
the  town  probably  conceal  interesting 
fragments  which  may  still  be  brought 
to  light.  llie  only  ruins  of  the 
Volscian  city  now  visible  are  some 
remains  of  the  walls,  in  the  quarter 
called  the  Vignaccie :  they  are  built 
of  quadrilateral  masses  irregularly 
put  together,  but  not  of  very  large 
size.  They  are  interesting  as  show- 
ing that  the  Volscian  city  stood  on 
the  rocky  eminence  above  the  shore, 
while  the  town  which  arose  under  the 
Roman  emperors  was  situated  on  the 
sea-side.  Near  the  entrance  of  the 
town,  on  the  right  hand,  we  have  a 
fine  ruin  of  imperial  construction,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  villa  of  Nero :  it  is 
immediately  opposite  the  modem 
barracks.  It  consists  of  several  rooms 
and  baths,  which  still  retain  their 
Tnosaic  pavement  and  their   painted 


walls.  The  villa  appears  to  have 
been  of  great  extent,  but  its  chief  in- 
terest is  derived  from  the  large  num- 
ber of  works  of  art  which  have  bem 
found  among  its  ruins.  The  Apollo 
Belvedere  was  found  here  in  the  time 
of  Julius  II.  ;  the  Borghese  Gladiator 
was  discovered  about  a  century  later ; 
and  our  account  of  the  Vatican  Mu- 
seum ^ows  how  many  valuable  sculp- 
tures have  been  subsequently  disin- 
terred. There  are  no  remains  of  the 
temples  of  Apollo  and  ^sculapius, 
celebrated  in  the  history  of  the  voyage 
of  the  Sacred  Serpent  from  Epidaurus 
to  Rome;  nor  of  the  more  famous 
shrine  of  Equestrian  Fortune,  which 
Horace  has  commemorated  in  the 
beautiful  ode  in  which  he  invokes 
the  favour  of  the  goddess  for  the 
projected  expedition  of  Augustus  to 
Britain : 

**  O  Diva  gratum  quae  regis  Antium, 
PraesenB  vel  imo  tollere  de  eradu 
Mortale  corpus,  vel  superbos 
Vertere  Aineribus  tnumpbos.'* 

Od.  I.  XXXV. 

The  modem  village  and  harbour  of 
Porto  d*Anzo  belong  to  Prince  Bor^ 
ghese,  whose  villa,  formerly  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Costaguti  family,  stands 
upon  the  acropolis  of  the  Volscian 
city.  The  climate  is  considered  good^ 
and  during  the  winter  and  spring 
nothing  can  be  more  delightful  as  a 
residence.  Tlie  beautiful  scenery  of 
the  neighbourhood  affords  abundant 
occupation  to  the  artist,  and  the  lofty 
and  well-wooded  banks  which  bound 
the  coast  effectually  protect  it  from 
the  north  winds.  Besides  the  Villa 
Borghese  the  town  contains  a  villa 
belonging  to  the  Mencacci  family, 
who  purchased  it  in  1820  from  the 
Corsini  for  20,000  scudL  Don  Mi- 
guel frequently  resides  here,  and  makes 
Porto  d'Anzo  his  head-quarters  in  hia 
sporting  expeditions.  The  view  from 
the  tower  of  the  Villa  Borghese  is 
'  extremely  fine :  on  the  lefl  it  com- 
'  mands  the  line  of  coast  towards  Net- 
!  tuno  and  the  Circaean  promontory ; 
further  inland  the  eye  ranges  along 
the  Volscian  mountains,  studded  with 


vxemtnoifs  from  tOMs  (fHutmoy. 


nM  Null 


-niooliliciorthe  Albin 
«  recognUe   Vulli 
I   of   Pnlelrmn 
a  di  Cftvi  in  Ihe  dumnce  ;  t 
QtSu   L«*raU,  nnrly  in  ■  line  villi 
Netni  1  Rod  brlher  on,  Allwno,  Ci 
OMidolru.    Genuno,    Rocca  (Ij  Papa, 
i  the  other  villiges  ' 

ood,    which    ihe   invelUr   will 

-J  require  to  be  p»i 

llThe  old  lower  or  csith 

Md'Anio.  which  ihc  English  dutnBntlcd 

^1b  ISI3,   U  suppoK^l  lo  hriTe  been 

'bulk   bjr   iha   Frsngipani,  who  wert 

*■  of  Astum  in  the  ISth  cenlurj: 

)  bean  ihc  arn»  or  Tnnoccnl  X.,  dI 

'leriiTnEUfiimUf,  vim  repaired  itf 

ailuBbout  tbe  middle  orihe  ITIh 

century-     Tlie  fortreu  van  pDrlially 

renored  by  Pius  VII.  aa  a  prii       ' 

criininaU     It  will  hold  QOO  p( 

tbe  number  actually  conlined 

Vthi  ■ 


WhlHI 


life.     Of 


^^ftrthi 

^■btdio 

T^^  BDdft 

«ther 

^■neub 

^^^thi 

the  lit 
it  U 

tracks 

^^Kbout 
^Killia 
^Hfaid  b 


this  number  63  were 

bomieids,  13   for  wauuiling,  and  79 

ftr  theft 

Votto   d'Anio   Is    3S    miles    Irom 

There  are  two  roadn  :    one 

in  ■  direct  tine  through  the 

Carroeeto  aod  Fonte  di  Pnpa, 

ng  into  the  biffh  road  from 

Rome  to  Alhano  at  Frattocchie  ;  the 

other  pusin)(  llirough  Ardea,  and  al- 

ready  described.      'Hie  direct  route  in 

Ttt  pRsuge  through  the  Toreiit  19  not  a 

track  for  Ihe 

?nsc  quantity 

ibundntice  of 

isf  tiie  journey,  and  wi'tbout  a  guide 
It  is  estremely  difficult  to  recognise 
the  line  of  route  in  many  places  where 
it  is  crossed  and  re-crossed  by  the 
"— ;l[s  of  the  charcoal-burners. 

south  of  Porto  d'Anto, 

inn  where  travellers  will 

Iliia  is  the  largest  town 

the  coast  of  I^tium,  aUhuugli  the 


■3  add  serin 


population  is  not  rnore  Iban  I 
souIl  It  is  genrrally  supposed 
'  it    marks    Ihe  site   of  Ceno,  the 

Dionyaius;  l>ul  on  cxomininf;  llw 
coast  it  is  difficult  lo  imsgine  the  »»> 
cestity  which  could  induce  the  Vol* 
Kiins  lo  form  a  harbour  at  this  spol». 
when  their  own  promontory  at  An. 
tium  mufit  have  aflbrded 
cBectual  shelter  and  better  ace 
dation,  lung  before  the  Romaa  mots 
or  even  the  Roman  fleet  had 
enee.  In  fkct  there  appear  no  good 
grounds  l»r  assigning  to  tlie  Ccno  o( 
Dionysiua  any  other  locality  (ban  tbat 
of  the  modern  harbour  of  Porta 
d'Anio,  We  have  already  statedtiiat 
Antium  was  situated  on  the  high 
ground  above  the  prewnt  village,  and 
hence  the  city  and  the  port  wonld 
naturally  be  mentioned  astno distinct 
objecla.  The  whole 
Porto  d'Auto  and  Nettuoo  ig  corered 
with  ruins  of  Roman  villas.    Theflnt 

Netluno  i>  the  fortress  founded  by 
Alexander  VI„  and  restored  by  Urban 
VIII.  and  Aleiander  VII.,  whoK 
amis  are  conipicuous  on  its  indls.  It 
is  greatly  dilapidated,  and  is  only 
tenanted  by  a  feir  soldiers  cnployed! 
*  -^e  service  of  the  coast-guard,  TliB 
nwith  theinunenwterrilorywhidi 
« its  name  belongs  to  thi 
ily,  who  purchased  it  ii 
1  the  Camera  A  postal! 
400,000  scudi.  It  contains  a  : 
quliies,  tVagmenls  of  colunuii  and 
ipitals,  the  remains  probably  et 
Temple  of  Neptune,  froni  which  i 
supposed  to  have  derived  its  nai 
The  traveller  w" 
irttb  the  picturesiine  costume  of  tbe 
ffomon,  which  differs  altogether  from 
;hat  of  the  other  vilUgEB  of  Latium, 
ind  is  quite  Oriental  ■     ■-      ■ 


The 

the  inhab 


1  tells 


idcd  from 

_ ,  probably  from  oL_ 

of  Ihc  piratical  bands  which  inlested 

" "    coast  of  Italy  in  the  8th  and  9tti 

urles.      Netluno   was    Ihe  birth- 

Vtace  of  Andrea  Sacchi,  the  painter. 


Hipaf  Stales."]  EXCCRStoas  fnou  home  (Etru^ixm  Cities).    605 


who  wns  born  in  1600  ;  and  of  Paolo 
Segneri,  called  the  "  flower  of  Ksliiiu 


After  I 


t  Net- 


WB9  Ibea  lard  of  Astura,  seiied  Hie 
roya!  fugitive  and  betrayed  him  into 
the  lionds  of  Churln  of  Anjou,  bj 
wham  be  was  hasely  executed  in  th« 
great  squareof  the  Cannincal  Nsplei: 
Cluie  to  AsluTB  is  (he  stream  of 
(he  same  name,  meiKiiHied  by  Ptiny  ; 


tiuio  wc  crass  a  stream  auppused 
the  Loracina  of  Ljyy  :  beyoud  it  we 
croH  a  branch  of  Iho  same  tarrent 
called  the  Rio  di  S.  Rocco,  and  far- 
tber  on  (he  Poglino,  the  most  eotisi- 
derable  stream  of  this  coast,  which  U 
paned  by  a  modern  bridge  of  two 
■rehes.  Bcyoud  this  wo  *ee  nume- 
twu  ruiniof  Roman  villas  and  baths, 
which  continue  all  the  way  lo  Asiura, 
Tbit  eloaucol  village  is  built  on  tbe 
extremity  af  a  peninsula,  to  which  the 
ancienta  gave  the  name  of  the  Insula 
Astune,  A  lofty  tower,  viuble  from 
■11  parts  of  the  coast,  stands  upon  its 
highest  point,  and  is  built  on  the 
ruins  of  an  anolcnt  edifloe  supposed 
with  great  probability  lo  be  the  villa 
of  Cicero.  He  describes  it  in  his 
lettom  (o  Attlcus  aa  situated  in  (he 
lea :  Eit  hie  qvidem  !aciu  onucatu,  el 
■a  mari  ipto,  gtti  et  Antio  ei  CirAEifi 
tupici  poniu  Tlio  illustrious  orator 
embarlced  here  when  he  fled  from  the 
pnjscripiion  of  the  (tiumviralc  The 
island  of  Attuta  as  early  as  the  ISth 
century  was  the  <,(rongbold  of  the' 
Frangipani  family,  from  whom  i( ' 
passed  successively  to  the  Caetanl, , 
Conii,  Orsini,  and  Colonna.  In  the 
i6th  century  it  became  the  property 
of  the  Camera,  and  was  sold  with ' 
Ncltunu  to  Prince  Borghese  in  la.1l. ' 
Tbe  tower,  built  in  the  15tb  century  ' 
on  the  supposed  foundation*  of  Ci-  ' 
ocio'a  villa,  includes  within  its  walls  I 
the  TOults  of  the  Frangipani  rbrtreis,  | 
th«  melancholy  scene  of  an  act  of 
treachery  which  has  made  the  name  of 
AMura  and  that  of  the  Frangipani 
inbmoui  in  Italian  history.  In  iSSS,  j 
after  the  fatal  luttle  of  Tagliacoiio, ' 
tbe  young  Conradin,  the  last  of  the' 
bouse  of  Mohcnsuufen,  took  refuge 
Bt  Ajilura  ill  order  to  secure  his  safety 
by  flight,    Jacopo   Frangipani,  who 


dbclan 


viilag 


■e  the  r> 


of  the  ancient  male,  constructed,  like 
that  of  Antium,  upon  arches.  Tnt- 
Tellers  who  intend  to  proceed  south- 
ward will  pruhnbly  be  indlspo»d  (o 
traierse  tho  long  succession  of  saodj 
dunei  and  pestilent  swamps,  which 
spread  between  the  sea  and  the  iin> 
menw  forests  of  the  Pontine  maisbei 
for  a  coast-line  of  24  miles :  they 
may  therefore  embark  at  Astura  tot 
Teiraclna,  viuting  the  Circsan  pny- 

scription  of  this  classical  headland, 
and  of  Tcrracina.  see  (he  Hand- Book 
for  Southern  Italy. 


We  shall  conclude  oar  account  of 
the  contorni  of  Home  with  ■  sketch 
of  all  eicuraion  to  (he  siles  of  those 
cities  of  ancient  Etruria  which  have 
not  been  already  noticed  in  tbe  pre- 
ceding routes.  Civlta  Vecchia  may 
be  considered  the  bead-rjuarters  of 
the  traveller  for  this  excursion,  but 
we  have  leserred  our  account  of  it  fbi 
this  pboe,  because  it  seldom  happen* 
that  travellers,  on  landing  at  that  pnrt, 
and  parliculsrly  if  (hey  are  visiting 
Italy  for  the  first  time,  are  prepared 
to  make  so  important  a  digression 
fiom  their  route.  They  would  alio, 
in  many  instances,  enter  upon  the 
tout  without  that  preliminary  study 
which  we  believe  lo  be  necessary  !d 
order  to  appreciate  the  antiquities. 
A  visit  to  the  Museo  Cregoriaoo,  to 
tho  Museo  Campana,  and  to  Ibe 
olber  Etruscan  collections  in  Hmiw, 
will  prepare  (he  traveller  for  thia  ex. 
cunion  more  completely  than  any 
descriptions  in  books,  and  make  the 
journey  trebly  interesting  to  the  in- 


KOME  (Omfri>  [Sect,  t. 


"Pic  tmllrr  *!»  luu  nplomd  th*  inna  Mts.  Hamillan  GrB}-'< 

HHe    boa    RonnR  to    Borne   by  to  Iha  Sqiiikh««»  ot  Exnaim,' 

a  the  pnceding  which   Gnt    called    Ike    aite 

•    doubt    biic   TMiWd  English  ttiTellen  lo  Ihii  tBtemaiag 


It  vbkh  h«  will  mset  more  nwnt  "  Citin  lod  Ci 
irilb  IB  cmtral  iolj ;  and  U  a  not  ELruria.'  Bstli  of  Uietn  ca 
iapoaBblc  that  he  may  baie  ni*dv  an  luablc  mapt  and  plates  vl 
aM/tttnen  from  Viwtbo  to  the  nrcm-  gieailr  lo  their  utilit}-. 
»i|iiililiiii  of  Tutri  d'Aisa,  Koichia,  Tbc  road  trom  lEoine  t 
■lal^v^  and  ban  explored  the  nies  Vtr<*iit  U  d>^teritic<l  in  R 
of  SiMri  and  of  Vcii  oa  the  wne  Hhhc  vha  are  ditpoied  to  Mngm  b^ 
■vote,  Oa  Ibe  toad  from  Fbnnce  rife  nj  mutlouke  Ccnctri.  I^il««r 
1^  PiiufiB  he  will  ban  bad  an  op-  CiTiia  Veccbia  Ibe  -  IJiig,  [ilMir  ta 
paalnnii;  ct  eiamining  the  Etnucao  the  Gm  ni^  :  it  is,  hovever,  po^ 
Italic  of  Coriona  and  Areiao,  the  ab)«  to  prooeed  fteto  Home  M-  Cte< 
Ktn»can  remaini  at  Perugia,  nnd  nelo  in  one  da*,  wilboul  atappiaf  at 
tba  niiin  of  th«  fortifii-d  eil*  of  Fa-  Ciiiu  Vmhla ;  but  Ibese  i  gt 
Imii  nw  Ciiiu  Cuiellana.  If  h*  menu  mint  of  courae  dapetid  oai  d« 
tHre  mvenvd  the  eenlr^  road  from  contenience  ofibe  iTareUer.  TtefiiW 
Ttarugia  to  Montefiauonr   bj   Cilta    Eirutein  anlii|uitica  which  ooMiraia 

deUal'icnandOrTieto,he  will  doubt.    ii[  Urmif Iliiiliair  mj  1 i.  aiim 

leai  have  eiamincd  tbe  remain  of  Ihe   aome  remarkable  tamuli,  apaaat  fm 

nqiital  ot  Forsaa  al  Chiu^i-   Tbcie   IB3S  bj  the  Uucbcn  of   1 mi 

ftteratiDg  cities  are  belter  known  may  be  examined  *.  they  are  AaalmA 
■ad  DKHC  Bcemibte  than  those  ve  at  p.  ]91,  and  preieiil  nutfaing  wlMfe 
■re  about  to  describe,  but  they  are  calls  for  a  more  detailed  dmIm  tt^ 
DM  toon  jmrreMing  or  iDatrueiiTe.  has  there  been  Rinn. 
1b«  Citin  vUcb  may  be  made  Che  Ciamat  (Acn.Li,  C-auX  " 
dlljCBtafaiieisuruanirani  Bome  ate  milei  from  Rome  </«■.-  thcboneaf 
Om*  md  i>rp**>  'yi"?  near  the  road  t^isHieo  Hotsli.  a  vetlurinot  al«M 
~1»  Chita  Veccfaia;  and  those  situated  and  obliging  i  but  trarellera  had  hmv 
B  Ci*ita  Vecchia  and  Viterbo,  carry  lb«r  own  prosisons.  UnkHft 
1.  IW^inii,  rskt,  TueoMw.  ^aoao,  guide  to  Ihe  tombt  is  &  PiMqtia^ 
If  the  tmeller  have  not  Tinted  lobacconii>t  in  tbe  Piaaia,  who  bMfia 
may  do  so  on  hia  return  the  keya  of  the  locked  tomliaX  Tia 
HplotiDg  Bicdi,  Norchia,  road  lo  this  dassLcal  eiiy  iwiib  t^ 
el  d'AnOi  and  Vcii  on  hia  way.  from  the  high  posl^road  abotu  C  Htaa 
!■  many  of  iheae  places  hnnt  no  inna,  beyond  ftlontetoi 
tet^arellET  ihould  not  fail  Id  ftirnish  fiir  light  t^airiages.  t.en>eiTi  ■ 
I  introductioTis  ni  Roinc  representalire  of  a  city  wboatt 
dlber  to  lb[!  rciidcni  pro|>Hvtors,  or  quity  carries  uji  fiir  beyond  Ihe  i 
to  the  learuFil  ecdesiaetLcs  who  have  cans,  lo  a  perioil  at  least  ISJeeiV 
Waloualy  laboured  lo  illuiinlv  iheir  mterior  to  out  era.  li  is  the  Anils 
mpeelive  localities,  and  are  always  nt  the  Telavt  ■"■I  ^'^  Ctuni  of  ll« 
^Mdy  to  eiteud  their  nsustance  to  |  Elruscons,  and  is  celebrated  aa  Ub  •». 
■    ■  itajof  Menntiuswhen  .£neaaani«aA 


ruiatlj  ir  the  trBTeller  intend  lo 

'igretsiona  from  Ihe  high 

■-  persons  who  hare  either 

Iiad  lima  or  oppoilunity  to  study 


£lruMSn  colleoiiona  avKome  wiwVcaW  i^ 


I*,  Lycophton,  ami  all  ibe  Gtcek 
ets  before  Ihe  Au^ruslan  age,  call 
gylla.  and  all  the  Labn  wtitna 
w^  tlie  fUMc 


PapcU  States.']     excursions  from  rome  (Cervetri).  607 


the  sake  of  the  metre.  The  Agylla 
of  the  Greeks  was  founded  by  the 
Pela^i  ia  conjunction  with  the  abo- 
rigines, if  it  were  not  previously 
founded  by  the  SiculL  Dionysius 
mentions  it  as  one  of  the  chief  cities 
of  Etruria  in  the  time  of  Tarquinius 
Priscus,  and  says  that  it  changed  its 
name  when  subdued  by  the  Etrus- 
cans. Strabo,  however,  tells  us  (lib.  ▼. 
c.  ii.),  that  tlie  new  name  was  derived 
from  the  salutation  x^'^P^*  vrith  which 
the  Lydians  on  their  invasion  were 
bailed  by  the  Pelasgi  from  the  walls. 
From  its  wealth  and  importance  it 
became,  as  Caere,  one  of  the  12  cities 
of  the  Etruscan  League ;  and  Strabo 
mentions  it  as  the  only  city  of  Etruria 
whose  citizens  abstained  from  piracy 
from  a  strong  sense  of  its  injustice. 
When  Rome  was  invaded  by  the 
Oauls,  Caere  afforded  an  asylum  to 
the  vestal  virgins,  who  were  sent  here 
for  safety  with  the  perpetual  fire; 
and  it  is  supposed  that  the  Romans 
were  first  initiated  in  the  mysteries  of 
the  Etruscan  worship  by  the  priests 
of  Caere,  a  circumstance  from  which 
the  antiquaries  derive  the  etymology 
of  the  word  ceremony  {earenumiay 
In  the  time  of  Augustus  the  town 
had  lost  nearly  all  its  importance; 
and  Strabo  says  that  in  his  day  it  had 
preserved  scarcely  any  vestige  of  its 
ancient  splendour.  It  appears,  how- 
ever, from  inscriptions  still  extant, 
and  especially  from  one  of  remarkable 
beauty  on  Carrara  marble»  preserved 
in  the  StucU  at  Naples,  that  Caere 
obtained  great  popularity  in  the  time 
of  Tn^an  for  its  mineral  waters,  called 
the  Aquae  Caeretanae :  they  are  still 
in  some  repute  under  the  name  of  the 
Bagni  di  Sasso,  and  are  situated  about 
four  miles  west  of  CcrvetrL  In  the 
middle  ages  the  town  was  the  seat  of 
a  bisliopric,  and  is  mentioned  as  such 
in  church  documents  as  late  as  the 
11th  century,  when  it  had  consider- 
ably decline<l.  It  appears  to  have 
remained  in  comparative  obscurity 
until  the  beginning  of  the  13th  cen- 
tury, when  the  new  settlement  of 
Cert  Nttovo  was    founded,  and  the 


present  name  of  Cervetri  was  applied 
to  the  ancient  site.  At  this  time  it 
belonged  to  the  Bonaventura  or  Yen- 
turini  family,  from  whom  it  passed  to 
the  Orsini.  It  was  sold  by  them  in 
1674  to  the  princely  family  of  Rus* 
poll,  in  whose  possession  it  still  re^ 
mains.  The  description  of  Virgil, 
who  tells  us  that  Mezentius  led  a 
thousand  men  from  it  to  the  assist- 
ance of  Turnus,  is  still  applicable  to 
the  locality : 

*'  Haud  procul  hinc  mxo  incolitur  fundata 
vetusto 
UrbU  AgylKiuB  ledec,  ubi  Lydia  quondam 
Gens  bcUo  pneclara  ju£^  insedit  Strutcia.*' 

Mn.  viii.  478. 

It  stands  on  a  long  strip  of  tabloi* 
land,  naturally  isolated  on  all  sides, 
except  towards  the  west,  by  perpendi- 
cular precipices  which  are  not  less  in 
some  places  than  fifty  feet  in  height. 
On  the  western  side,  an  artificial 
cutting  completed  the  natural  strength 
of  its  position.  The  modem  village 
of  Cervetri  is  supposed  to  occupy  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Acropolis  :  it  is  a 
miserable  village  of  200  souls,  with  a 
Gothic  gateway,  and  a  large  deserted 
palace  of  the  lluspoli  family,  on  whose 
eldest  son  it  confers  the  title  of  Prince 
of  Cervetri.  The  city  of  ancient  Caere 
was  not  less  than  4  or  5  miles  in  cir- 
cuit, and  covered  the  whole  table- 
land beyond  the  point  on  which  Cer- 
vetri is  built,  between  Monte  Abetone 
and  the  hill  of  the  Necropolis.  The 
Venturini  and  Orsini  surrounded  Cer- 
vetri with  fortifications,  built  of  large 
blocks  of  tufa  taken  from  the  ancient 
walls,  which  are  of  rectangular  ma- 
sonry, although  they  arc  of  Pelade 
origin ;  considerable  remains  of  these 
walls  are  still  visible  on  the  western 
side  of  the  hill  opposite  the  Necropo- 
lis. The  eight  gates  may  be  traced, 
with  two  roads  leading  to  them ;  one 
a  paved  road  to  Veii,  the  other  leading 
to  Pyrgos,  now  Santa  Severa,  on  the 
coast,  the  ancient  port  of  Caere,  llie 
!  hill  of  the  Necropolis,  now  called 
the  Banditaccia,  is  divided  from  the 
i  town  by  a  small  stream  called  the 
!  Ruscello  ddla  Madonna  dc*  Canat 

Ik  Ik  \ 


Bxtwrntomi  'FaMt  nom  (Cifwttr^   —  i 


IfHIifacc  H  eieaialeil  into  pils  and 
I ;  aod  iu  clifE  an  cieavateil  in 
*  at  lamba.  wbicli  are  al  ocice 
■nd    of  ■• 
Thrn  are  no  ucliitcctural 
1,  but  muiy  of  ihe  loinln  of 
r  BuiilitMcii  are  niirmounted   by 


gTcUly  mffcred  from  damp.  The  few 
liuida  which  are  now  risible  are  lery 
IwDiiLiful,  and  perrecti;  Greek  in  cha- 
~  r.  5.  A  tomb  of  great  anti- 
quity, wilh  rude  paintings  of  lueaand 
parti-oolourml    animaL^,    stags,   " 


.    In  18^ 


,  lhe.1 
ccled  to  the  b 


antiquann 

of  till*  Nacropoli*,  by  the  i;rMt 
b*r  of  curiuiu  rcnuiiu  which  were 
brought  to  liglit  by  the  Tcwarches  of 
Momignore  It^uiini,  the  aichprieal 
ot  the  town,  and  by  General  Galasi. 
'rikc  eilraordinary  tomb  which  bifara 
llieir  nami:,  and  which  will  be  de- 
Kiibeil  (ireaeiitly,  wii  di»eoTered  in 
IS36;  Kveril  olhen  of  very  great. 
■ml  in  aumc  reapeets  unique,  inlcrcil, 
were  brouijht  to  light  in  1845,  and  a 
still  larger  number  in  Ifi4<i.  Ai  the 
latlet  arc  lirst  met  with  in  the  turrey 
of  the  site,  we  nhall  briefly  indicate 
them  bcfofe  we  deacribe  the  Hegu- 
lini-GuluM  tomb;  —  ].  The  finl  u  a 
larg*  square  lonib  wilh  a  flat  rouf, 
supported  by  two  square  pillars,  and 
roni  of  nicbei  Gir  biidies  both  iu  the 
walU  and  iu  the  benches  which  aur- 
round  them.  3.  A  lotnh  of  two 
cbamben,  com  muni  eating  wilh  each 
other  by  a  small  door,  luid  reniarkable 
for  an  ann-ehair  cut  out  uF  the  solid 
rock,  by  the  side  of  one  of  the  sepul- 
cliral  couches.  It  ia  sometimes  called, 
frota  this  circumstance,  the  CmUa 
rferti  Stdia,   though   tliere  are  other 

Hie  title.     3.  Tmnb  called  the  Grulla 


auehes 


and  fool 


TbeRirm 
>[of  ai 


>ola  I 


loinbis 


vilh  D 

Teslibuleondfivccliambers.  4.  CroHo 
dd  TnclMo,  discovered  by  Cov. 
Campona  in  1B46.  a  single  cliamber, 
with  a  hroad  bench  of  rock  for  the 
dead,  with  a  skull  al  the  head  of  each 
compartment.  It  contains  bas-reliefs 
of  3  »iM  boor  end  a  panther,  and  iu 


jilc-shapcd.  and  the  other  two  baling 
on  their  lids  recumbent  figures,  wilb 
liana  at  their  6eet,  like  the  monu- 
mental cfligies  of  the  middle  agea; 
the  drapery  of. the  figures  and  the 
style  of  eieouIioD  show  an  antiquity 
much  more  remote  tbnn  the  Etrus- 
cans. 7.  A  tomb  divided  into  3  por- 
tions by  fluted  pillars  with  richly 
carved  capitals ;  at  the  end  of  the 
central  portion  is  a  deep  recesa  ap- 
proached liy  a  flight  of  steps,  in  which 
is  a  sepulchral  couch  of  solid  roet 
with  cushions  at  its  head :  (id  diia 
couch  still  remain  the  skulls  of  itatwO 
occupants,  who  were  evidently)  mala 
sud  female.  8.  Tomb  of  the  Targmiti, 
discovered  in  1 846,  n  tomb  of  two 
chambers ;  the  outer  one  leading  by  a 
Dight  of  steps  to  the  second  sod  laigu 
one,  called  by  the  peasantry,  fiom 
the  number  (^  the  inscriptions,  tbe 
"  Grotta  delle  Iscririoni."  THa 
chamber  is  35  feet  aquare,  witli  two 
square  pillars  in  the  centre,  and  ia 
surrounded  by  double  benches.  Hw 
upper  portion  of  the  walls  is  hollowed 
iiito  oblong  niches  for  the  dead.  On 
different  parts  of  the  walls  and  benches 
tbe  name  of  Tarquin,  or  TAHcuHa^ 
occurs  nearly  forty  times,  thus  proving 
beyond  all  doubt  the  Etrusean  origin 
of  that  celebrated  Gunlly.  9.  Bigit- 
liHi-Galiuii  Tomb,  discovered  in  1836 
by  the  Moniignore  and  Geoeisl 
whose  names  it  bears.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  been  originally  surmounted 
by  an  immense  mound,  the  base 
which  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  with 
sepulchral  chambers  for  peraons  of 
luferior  rank.  It  is  a  lung  and  narroir 
chamber,  eo  feet  long,  wilh  sides  and 
tonf  vaulted  in  the  form  of  a  Cothio 
arch  with  n  square  top,  and  so  I 
\>-j  g(ai\iaVVj  lic-wing  away  the 


Papal  States,']    excursions  from  rome  {Cerveirt).  609 


lODtal  courses  of  rock  to  a  smooth 
surface,  precisely  as  we  see  at  Arpino 
and  other  Pelasgic  cities  of  Latium, 
thus  proving  an  antiquity  prior  to  the 
use,  if  not  to  the  discovery,  of  the 
arch.  This  long  vaulted  chamber  is 
divided  into  two  portions  by  a  door- 
way of  the  same  form.  In  the  outer 
one  were  found  a  bronse  bier;  a  four- 
wheeled  car  of  bronze,  supposed  to 
have  been  the  funeral  car;  a  small 
bronze  tray  on  four  wheels,  supposed 
to  be  an  incense-burner ;  an  iron  altar 
on  a  tripod;  several  bronze  shields, 
beautifully  embossed  ;  some  arrows ; 
two  cauldrons  on  tripods ;  several  ar- 
ticles of  funeral  furniture,  suspended 
from  a  recess  in  the  roof  by  bronze 
nails,  and  about  S  dozen  earUienware 
figures,  supposed  to  be  the  Lares  of 
the  deceased.  On  the  door-posts  of 
the  inner  chamber  hung  vessels  of 
silver ;  from  the  vault  and  sides  of  the 
entrance  were  hung  bronse  vessels, 
some  bearing  the  name  "  Larthia ; " 
and  on  the  floor,  without  bier  or  sar- 
cophagus, lay  the  most  marvellous 
collection  of  gold  ornaments  ever  dis- 
covered in  a  single  tomb  in  modern 
times,  and  evidently  occupying  the 
positions  which  they  had  assumed 
when  the  body  they  once  adorned  bad 
crumbled  into  dust.  The  richness 
and  abundance  of  these  wondrous  spe- 
cimens of  ancient  manufacture  in  gold 
have  suggested  the  probability  that  the 
occupant  of  the  chamber  was  a  prin- 
cess. All  the  ornaments,  bronzes,  and 
vases  discovered  in  this  tomb  have 
been  removed  to  Rome,  and  now  form 
the  most  interesting  features  of  the 
Gregorian  Museum;  they  are  de- 
scribed in  our  account  of  that  col- 
lection at  p.  477.  There  is  therefore 
nothing  remaining  for  the  traveller  to 
see  but  the  remarkable  architecture  of 
the  chaml>ers,  which  the  constant  ac- 
cumulation of  rubbish  is  fiist  rendering 
inaccessible.  I'he  discovery  of  this 
tomb  has  led  to  a  great  deal  of  anti- 
quarian speculation,  into  which  it 
would  be  unprofitable  to  enter :  it  will 
be  suflicient  for  us  to  state,  that  Canina 
considers  that  it  it  at  least  3000  yean 


old,  or  about  coeval  with  the  TrqjaQ 
war ;  and  that,  like  the  circular  tombs 
at  Tarquinii  and  the  Cucumella  at 
Vulci,  it  was  erected  in  honour  of  • 
chief  slain  in  war.  10.  About  a  mile 
from  this  tomb,  on  the  southern  side 
of  Monte  Abetone,  which  is  supposed 
to  be  the  site  of  the  Grove  of  Syl- 
vanus,  celebrated  by  Virgil,  is  a  very 
interesting  tomb  opened  by  Cav.  Cam- 
pana  in  1 845,  and  kept  under  lock  and 
key,  in  order  to  preserve  its  furniture 
and  fittings  exactly  as  they  were  dis- 
covered. This  tomb  is  divided  into 
three  compartments  by  pilasters :  on 
the  roof  of  the  first  is  the  singular 
fan-like  ornament  which  always  indi- 
cates a  high  antiquity ;  in  the  se- 
cond arc  two  sepulchral  couches  of 
solid  rock,  on  which  still  remain  the 
skulls  of  their  two  occupants,  and  the 
black  dust  into  which  the  bodies  have 
crumbled:  some  earthen  pans  and 
jars  complete  the  furniture  of  the 
tomb;  in  the  third,  on  a  bench  of 
rock,  are  several  jars  of  various  sizes. 
11.  A  mile  from  this  tomb,  in  a  spot 
difficult  of  access,  is  another  tomb 
covered  by  a  tumulus,  and  reached  by 
a  passage  of  approaching  stones.  It 
contains  in  one  of  its  chambers  an 
arm-chair  and  foot-stool,  cut  out  of 
the  solid  rock ;  and  in  another  was 
found  the  skeleton  of  a  horse.  12. 
Near  at  hand  is  [another  tomb,  also 
covered  by  a  tumulus  called  the 
Gratia  Torlonia.  It  is  approached  by 
a  long  passage  in  the  hill  side,  termi- 
nating in  a  chamber  with  pilasters  of 
Greek  character ;  beneath  this  cham- 
ber is  the  tomb  which  we  enter  by  a 
flight  of  steps.  Like  many  other 
tombs  we  have  described,  this  is  di« 
vided  into  3  compartments,  which 
contained  no  less  than  54  sepulchral 
couches.  Though  the  tomb  liad  evi- 
dently been  plundered  in  ages  past, 
even  of  its  vases,  the  bodies  of  the 
dead,  when  it  was  first  opened  a  few 
years  back,  were  found  reposing  on 
these  couches,  but  they  soon  crum- 
bled into  dust  under  the  influence  of 
the  atmosphere. 

Ctri  NtiovOt  a  small  baxoYuaJLVvVSM^^ 


tXCDBIllOSS  TiroM  HCfMK  (t5s«WW). ' 


The  liilla  on  ilic  right  of  (lie  Towlaiv 
litltfil  with  vild  buais,  which  iltbrd 
et«el1nit  Bporting  dining  the  iriBttf- 
Cornrtoi  aa  cfiiseopid  oil;  of  3H0 
HmU,  rote  in  the  middle  agei  fmn 
the  mini  of  ihe  Etruiean  cily  of  T»- 
ijuin'ii,  vlioM  9<l«  is  about  a  mile  mi 
a  hair  dislant.      Cometo  was  maifa  i 

9UI  rounded  by  picturesque  battie- 
m^nted  walls  and  tm-ers,  which  b»- 
long  pmbabiv  Id  n  much  earlier  pe- 
riod. The  first  bishop  of  Tan|Dhdl 
was  Apiilejus,  A.n.  465,  but  afte*  the 
dextb  of  thefiiurth  hidiop  tlie  wewai 
transferred  to  Cometo,  which  rawt 
thcTpfore  have  been  a  place  of  soma 
conseqiicrce  before   Ih 


13tb 

ttoflhe  Roman 

il  wu  ■  place  of  Kiine  Mrengih, 

n  for  a  brief  period  ?iubjecl  to 

'a  Ihe  15ih  ccnlury  it  be- 

the   Or^ini  of  AnguilUra, 

>   built  ihii'c  a   new  iurtreia 


Il  I 


ffardapaised  tc 


a  (if  Cc«,  BoTromeOi  and  (Idescal- 

d  it  in  IB»3tothe  banker 

krloniafurSSO.OOOKiodi.  Ithaaalao 

in  it*  vicinilj.  but  iliey 

D  nothing  to  call  fin-  a  detailed 

erlptiui 


I,  the  ai 


and  anenal  of  Ore,  a  placed  by 
antiituariea  at  Santa  Seven,  aituated 
-  -  -"  coast,  on  the  left  of  the  high 
Civila  Vccchia.  and  described  | 
ipage  189,  under  Route  S5  b.  The 
also  referred  to  that  Route 
lunt  of  the  town  and  har- 
'ivilB  Vecchla,  the  repre- 
aentative  of  the  Roman  settlement  of 
Centumcelln.  where  he  may  obtain  a 
light  carriage  foi  the  rest  of  the  ex- 


i 


o(Ta« 


r-0. 


.  __Jrkabledtt- 
ring  the  struggles  of  the  Guelpheand 
Ghibclioes  for  its  attacbmcDt  to  Ae 
popes,  and  wm  the  place  where  Gre- 
gory SI.  landed  when  he  brought 
back  the  Holy  See  fi^m  Avignoo  to 
Itotnc.  The  city  stands  on  a  loAy 
hill  overlooking  the  Mediternneai, 
and  (rom  all  parts  of  thecoulitii 
a  picturesque  and  imposing  object 
The  old  Gothic  cathedral  of  the  9th 
century,  called  S.  Maria  di  Castdlo, 
ily  injured  by  lightniiu 


Ht  milea  fVom  Civita  Vecchia.  [The 
»Cbta  Moiraiia  at  Cometo  is  clean, 
and  affords  very  tolerable  quarters. 
The  Palaizaecio.  formerly  very  dirty, 
is  said  to  be  greatly  improved!  it  was 
formerly  the  palace  of  Card.  ViCeUcK- 
ohi,  and  will  be  hereafter  noticed  fo 


1  sio  til 


erted:  ii 


1  fdlov 


The 


re.]      The 

and  il  generally  mg( 


heath-land,  covered  with  dwarf  corb- 
trees.  myrtle,  and  icntiscus,  and  much 
frequented  by  the  wild  boar  end  roe- 
buck. The  rood  crosses  the  Mignone 
about  midway  between  the  tVD  towns, 
and  after  leaving  Taccone  di  Meiio 
ou  the  right  proceeds  almost  in  a 
straight  line  to  Corneto.  On  the 
coast,  on  the  left  hand,  between  the 
mouths  of  the  Mignone  and  the  Marta, 
^^Torre  Clementina,  a  small  cuitom- 
^|ta|K«  ttatioa,  ia  «  eonspiieitoui  ob^eEt. 


remarkable  for  its  tine  dome,  and  fbr 
a  doorway  with  a  round  arch  tbrmerly 
covered  with  ntosaics:  on  each  rideoT 
the  door  are  some  Latin  ioscriptionm 
recording  the  names  of  the  bishops  of 
Tarquinii,  prior  to  the  cbange  of  dio- 
cese. In  the  aisle,  forming  a  step,  il 
a  marlHe  slab,  insorilied  with  the 
words  "  Larlh.  Velcbas  Thuieeni,"  in 
Etruscan  characters.  The  lofty  tower 
is  still  surmounted  by  one  of  the  four 
statues  of  horses  which  were  fbtmd 
among  the  ruins  of  Tanjuinii.  and 
placed  Bl  Ihe  angles  of  the  tower.  The 
other  three  were  itrnck  down  by- 
lightning  when  the  cathedral  was  in- 
jtued  in  IBIO.  Many  of  theprinOe 
houses  and  churches  of  Cometo  aro 
ornamented  with  marbles  and  eoIuKnu 
from  the  ancient  city,  and  are  inte- 
resting as  affording  a  good  eiampto  of 
.  IXAwo.  GmVag.     Tbe  Urge  palsM  of 


Papal  States.^-    excursioks  from  rome  (Comefo). 


611 


Cardinal    Vitellescbi,    now   the    inn, 
called  the  Palazzaccio,  presents  sonoe 
fine  and  characteristic  details  of  the 
domestic  Gothic  architecture  of  the 
15th  century.    The  Palazzo  Comunale 
contains  some  frescoes  illustrative  of  • 
the  history  of  Cometo,  among  which  is  i 
one  tracing  the  origin  of  the  city  to  the  i 
ancient  Corytus,  an  assumption  of  an- 
tiquity to  which  Cometo  has  no  kind 
of  pretension.     Among  the  private 
palaces   may  be   mentioned    the    P. 
Bruschi,  with  its  charming  gardois 
and  antiques  liberally  thrown  open  to 
the   inhabitants;   the  P.  Falsacappa, 
containing  a   small  musuem   of  an- 
tiques found  among  the  ruins  in  the 
neighbourhood  ;    and  the  collections 
of  Cav.  Manzi,  most  of  which  are,  we 
believe,  for  sale.    One  of  the  convents 
of  nuns  contains  a  small  chapel,  in 
which  Madame  MSre,  the  mother  of 
Napoleon,    and  Cardinal   Fesch,  are 
buried.     The  body  of  the  former  is 
oontaincd  in  a  plain  sarcophagus  of 
white  marble,  without  any  inscription; 
but  they  will  both  be  removed  to  the 
ohurch  founded  by  the  Cardinal  at 
Ajaceio  in   Corsica,  as  soon  as  it  it 
ready  for  their  reception. 

The  site  of  Tarqvinii  is  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  modem  city,  by  a 
road  practicable  only  on  foot  or 
horseback.  It  occupies  a  flat  tal>le 
land  still  called  Turchina,  and  is  sur^ 
rounded  by  lofty  precipices  throughout 
nearly  its  entire  circuit.  At  the  two 
extremities  of  the  hill  were  formerly 
two  towers  called  Civitella  and  Cas- 
tellina  ;  the  latter  is  occupied  by  a 
deserted  convent.  Nothing  now  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  and  once  magni- 
ficent city  but  some  foundations  of 
walls  at  the  highest  part  of  the  hill, 
built  of  parallelograms  of  soft  stone^ 
in  the  massive  style  of  Etruscan  ma- 
sonry, and  a  very  remarkable  tomb, 
sunk  in  the  rock  beneath  the  surface 
like  a  cellar,  and  afibrding  an  unique 
exception  to  the  Etruscan  custom  of 
burying  their  dead  beyond  the  city 
walls.  The  position  of  tiz  gates 
may  be  recognised :  from  that  on  the 
louth  aide  a   paved   road  leads  to 


Monterozzi,  the  ancient  Necropolis. 
Tarquinii  was  the  religious,  if  not  the 
political  metropolis  of  ancient  Etruria. 
It  was  founded  nearly  1200  years  be- 
fore the  Christian  era  by  Tarchon,  who 
assisted  ^ncas  against  Turnus.  Do- 
maratus  of  Corinth,  settled  here  about 
B.  c.  658,  introduced  many  of  the  arts 
and  customs  of  Greece,  and  mar- 
ried a  lady  of  the  city.  His  eldest 
son  was  called  LueumOf  a  name  which 
he  exchanged  fbr  that  of  Tarquinius 
Priscus  at  the  suggestion  of  his  wiiis 
Tanc^wl,  when  he  migrated  to  Rome. 
The  fact  is  interesting,  not  only  in 
reference  to  the  early  history  of  Rome, 
but  because  the  names  of  Lucumo 
and  Tanaquil  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence in  inscriptions  found  among  the 
sepulchres. 

A  deep  and  broad  valley  separates 
the  rocky  hill  of  Turchina  from  that 
of  Monterozzi,  the  ancient  Necropolis 
of  Tarquinii.  This  hill  is  one  of  the 
most  instructive  monuments  of  Etru- 
ria, and  is  alone  suflScient  to  repay 
the  labour  of  the  journey.  Its  sur- 
face is  covered  with  an  extraordinary 
collection  of  tumuli,  amounting  in 
number  to  many  hundreds,  exclusive 
of  the  x>ainted  tombs  which  are  in- 
variably sunk  beneath  the  surface. 
A  few  years  ago  the  tumuli  were  com- 
paratively perfect,  but  they  have  now 
mostly  disappeared,  and  the  unevm 
surface  now  presents  only  a  number 
of  shapeless  mounds  overgrown  with 
shrubs,  or  the  open  pits  leading  to  the 
painted  sepulchres.  It  is  from  these 
tombs  that  the  Etruscan  student  has 
derived  the  greater  part  of  his  ac- 
quaintance with  the  religious  customs, 
the  games,  and  the  costumes,  of  one 
of  the  most  extraordinary  nations  of 
ancient  Europe.  The  first  discoveries 
were  made  here  in  the  last  century, 
by  Mr.  Byres,  an  Englishman  resi- 
dent at  Rome ;  and  most  of  the  ob- 
jects discovered  were  sent  to  England, 
either  to  the  British  Museum  or  to 
private  collections.  The  excavations 
were  not  pursued  on  a  systematic  plan, 
until  Lueien  Buonaparte  purchased 
the  principalUiw  of  Canino  tjcul  Mmi> 


Txcmtttnn  »imh«  «««■  CCtoww).' 


Mbn.     Th*  ([rut 

ro  SigDor  AtioIMi  who  cumidere 

M  ttw  N«cni[H>lii  eileiul«<]  owriix- 
1   iqu^rt    miles,    ■nil   conjectures, 

D  iIm  9000  lamlw  which  have  been 
'  in  recent  yean,  thai  their  total 
rt  could  not  hnie  been  less  thui 


.   coIIm 


U.J    b« 


or  II 


mull  o 


arly  oil 
e  perrcet  cnougli  to  be  n- 
i  appMr  to  have  hall  a  bise  of 
■r  muoaty  nirmounied  by  ■ 
■c  of  Mrth.  One  of  tlw  Tnosl  in- 
IVBStiDg  nov  vinblu  it  knovn  aa  Uie 
"  Uaiuoleoi'  and  it  built  of  lievn 
Uocka  of  travonine  nearly  3  teet  in 
l«ngth.     Tbe   interior  ia   vurtby  of, 


of  the 
ttome.  Even 
lames  be  u 


itufiu 


lulled 


ntof  letminating 
Aoung  Ui«e  lumuU  in  1833,  Signor 
Avvolta  diieovered  (ho  virgin  lomh, 
whieh  lirit  direclcil  (lie  altcniion  of 
European  arcbieoliigista  lo  Corneto. 
On  digging  into  the  tumului  Ibi 
(tones  to  mend  b  road,  he  broke  into 
Uw  a^ulchre  of  an  Etruscan  Lu- 
Clnno  or  prince.  "  I  bcbelil,"  he  saji. 
"a  mrrior  ilrelchcd  on  a  couch  of 
Tock,  and  in  a  fev  minutea  1  saw  him 
vanidi,  as  it  were,  under  my  eyes,  for 


.moapbeie  entered  the 


.,.1- 


oruugbly  oxidised, 
par. 
cely 


rt  that  it 


of  my  lire."  Of  tlie  olijects  found 
tbe  tomb,  the  bronie  lance  and  jat 
litu  vere  rusted  into  onemasi;  ai 
the  golden  crown  nos  so  IVii^a  tli 
all  but  a  small  portion  whicb  pats 
into  tlio  hands  of  Lord  Kinnaii 
perislied  on  its  way  to  Kume. 
would  he  out  of  place  in  b  work 
this  kind,  if  we  ti'ere  to  desi^ribe 
detail  the   objecu  which    have   be 


f  them  IiHve  p 


in  llie  other 


ready  noticed  in  our 

the  tambt,  if  their 
chauged  by  the  difTerent  ciceroni,  are 
not  always  shown  to  travellerB  in  tfaa 
same  Buccesaiiin,  so  that  the  Etudent 
iDust  necessarily  depend  mare  upon 
the  iuteliigence  of  his  local  cicerone 
than  upon  any  descriptions  in  bookt 
Tlie  principal  pointed  tombs,  however, 
are  kept  locked  by  order  of  goTVTD- 
meut,  and  the  cuslode  who  holds  Ilia 
keys,  Agapito  Aldsne^i,  of  the  Piaua 
Angelica,  shows  them  la  travellers  in 
the  following  order.  It  ia  alniost  uo- 
neceisary  to  say  that  the  travallet  wba 
wialies  to  obtain  more  than  a  pisung 
knowledge  of  tbe  tomba  must  visit 
them  with  Mr.  Dennis's  Tolumes  in 

his  hand.      I Gratia  dcUa  Qutrdok, 

discovered  in  1S31,  one  of  the  laigett 
and  most  msgniliceni  of  all  the  tomb* 
of  Tantuinii  althougli  much  ii(JDied 
by  damp.  The  subjects  of  the  paint- 
ings, which  are  quite  Greek  in  theic 
character,  are  a  love-scene  and  but- 
quet,  with  groups  of  dancra^  hone- 
men,  games,  boar-buiitB,  &c.  Copia 
of  these  puntiogs  are  preserved  in  lbs 
Gregorian  Museum  of  the  Vatican, 
and  a  ociloured  engraving  of  them  ii 
given  in  Mrs.  Gray's  work,  though 
she  has  mistaken  their  purport.  II. 
—  Gratia  dtl  TVidinio,  discovered  ia 
1830,  a  fine  chamber  witi 
roof:  it  derivGi  its  name  hota  tbe 
brilliant  and  life-like  paintings  on  the 
walls,  in  which  several  male  and  fe- 
male figures  are  seen  reclining  t 
couches  at  a  funeral  banquet.  Tl. 
cuatumes  and  the  arraogemenl  of  tbe 
tables,  &e.,  form  a  valuable  iltuatts- 
tion  of  Etrus 
of  the  wails  is  a  lively  representatiocl 
of  a  dance,  in  which  Uie  arms  and 
hnnds  appear  Bs  If  playing  the  et 
nets.  Copies  of  tliese  paintings  are 
preserved  in  the  Gregorian  Muteum, 
and  in  tlie  Etruscan  room  of  the  Bri- 
tish Mus 
jWurl 


lb,  tetoOTtable  for  a 


itiug  re- 


Papal  States,^     excursions  from  rome  (Ck>meto).  613 


presenting  a  young  girl  and  a  lad 
laying  out  the  dead  body  of  an  old 
man,  while  two  men  standing  by  ap- 
pear to  be  manifesting  their  sorrow  by 
frantic  gestures.  Over  the  woman's 
head  is  the  name  "  Thanaueil,**  over 
the  old  man*s  is  the  name  "  Thanar- 
saia,'*  and  over  the  third  man  is  the 
name  **  Enel.**  The  costumes  are 
rich  and  very  interesting,  and  the 
whole  scene,  though  perfectly  simple 
in  its  character  and  Egyptian  in  style 
and  execution,  is  extremely  touching. 
The  other  paintings  represent  the 
funeral  dances,  and  other  ceremonies. 
Copies  of  the  principal  subjects  are 
preserved  in  the  Gr^orian  Museum 
of  the  Vatican,  and  in  the  British 
Museum  ;  and  an  engraving  of  them 
is  found  in  Mrs.  Gray's  book,  though 
unfortunately,  the  colouring  is  in- 
correctly given.  IV.  —  Grotta  del 
Tifone,  discovered  in  1832,  one  of  the 
largest  tombs,  with  a  roof  supported 
by  a  square  pillar,  bearing  on  three 
of  its  sides  the  figure  of  the  typhon, 
or  angel  of  death,  from  which  it  takes 
its  name.  The  sides  of  the  chamber 
have  three  ledges,  one  over  the  other, 
on  which  eight  sarcophagi  still  re- 
main, with  recumbent  figures  on  the 
lids.  Two  of  them  are  Roman  with 
Latin  inscriptions,  supposed  to  be  those 
of  persons  descended  from  the  ancient 
Etruscan  family  of  Pumpus,  the  stirpg 
probably  of  the  Roman  fiimily  of 
Pompeius.  The  typhon  represented 
here  is  a  winged  figure,  with  folded 
arms,  the  lower  extremities  termina- 
ting in  serpents.  On  the  right  wall 
is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  paint- 
ings at  Tarquinii,  a  procession  of  souls 
with  good  and  evil  genii,  the  tallest 
figure  being  nearly  6  feet  in  height, 
and  all  the  otiiers  as  large  as  life. 
This  procession  is  almost  the  counter- 
part of  the  bas-relief  at  Norchia  de* 
scribed  at  page  230.  The  twisted 
rods  which  are  so  remarkable  in  those 
sculptures  are  here  again  seen  in  the 
hantis  of  many  of  the  figures,  thus 
evidently  denoting  their  funeral  im- 
port. Mrs.  Gray  has  given  a  repre- 
sentation of  this  subject  in  her  worky 


but  it  has  greatly  perished  since  her 
drawing  was  made.  The  evil  genius, 
or  the  Etruscan  Charon,  is  black,  with 
his  head  wreathed  with  serpents ;  he 
holds  an  enormous  hammer  in  one 
hand,  and  the  other,  which  terminates 
in  a  claw,  is  fastened  on  the  shoulder 
of  a  youth :  a  female  figure,  still  bear- 
ing marks  of  great  beauty,  and  evi- 
dently representing  the  spirit  of  the 
deceased,  follows,  attended  by  another 
evil  genius  with  a  serpent  twined 
around  his  head.  Over  the  head  of 
the  youth  are  inscribed  the  words, 
**Laris  Pumpus  Arnthal  Clan  Ce- 
chase,"  or  Lars  Pompeius,  the  son  of 
Aruns.  V. — Grotta  del  Cardinale,  first 
discovered  in  1699,  rediscovered  in 
1 760  by  our  countryman,  Mr.  Byres, 
reopened  in  1780  by  Cardinal  Ga- 
rampi,  and  made  known  by  Micali  in 
1808.  This  tomb  is  the  largest  known; 
it  consists  of  a  single  chamber,  54  feet 
square,  with  a  roof  supported  on  four 
square  pillars,  ornamented  with  me- 
dallions. It  appears  to  have  been  left 
unfinished ;  the  outlines  of  the  figures 
on  the  walls  may  still  be  traced,  but 
the  colours  have  disappeared.  The 
most  interesting  groups  are  those  on 
the  frieze,  representing  the  good  and 
evil  spirits  in  the  act  of  drawing  in  a 
car  the  soul  of  a  deceased  person  to 
judgment :  they  are  engraved  in  Mrs. 
Gray's  book  ;  and  Mr.  Byres's  draw- 
ings of  them,  made  when  they  were 
almost  in  their  original  condition, 
were  published  in  London  by  Messrs. 
Colnaghi  in  1842,  under  the  title  of 
**  HypogaeL"  The  evil  genii  are 
painted  black  with  their  hair  standing 
on  end,  and  with  black  buskins ;  most 
of  them  carry  hammers  in  their  hands. 
This  painting  is  extremely  curious, 
and  it  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  it 
has  been  seriously  damaged  in  recent 
years.  VI. — Grotta  delle  Bighet  dis- 
covered in  1827  by  Baron  Stackel- 
berg,  a  single  chamber,  with  a  vaulted 
roof^  painted  white,  black,  red,  and 
blue,  with  ivy  wreaths :  over  the  door 
are  two  panthers  and  two  geese.  The 
walls  are  covered  with  paintings  in 
the  purest  style  of  Greek  art^  ar- 


6It 


BxcussioMs  mow  nowtfOwWBfo).'  -^ 


i^^^S!1 


tangrd  in  iwo  c(ini(iiittni«iil«.  Vn 
tb*  Idwit  one,  nil  Ibe  ri^^bt  vail.  U  • 
peup  of  d«t««n;  in  the  u]ip«T  one ' 
■n  Mm  tbe  bigir,  or  two-hone  ch«-  | 
fubing  )irrp»i»tion«'for  a  eliBriot  i 
On  tlie  lirft  waJI,  iu  the  liiver  ' 
enl,  ii  another  group  of 
in  the  upper  one  are  varioua  ' 
lie  iporu,  glodiamn  preparing  I 
the  contest,  nnd  E#penl  charmers, 
the  ihII  oppoiite  the  door,  the ! 
Mwn  dI*biion  hai  ■  represcntntion  ' 
of  the  futienl  banquet,  with  figures ' 
(nnniei)  with  mjrtlei  above, is  another 
•niea  oF  games,  wieslling,  leaping,  &c.. 
M  higblj  eurioua  aa  studiea  of  cM- 
tnmu  and  manners.  Copies  of  these 
pieturca  are  preierved  in  the  Grego- 
rian Muwum  of  the  Vatican,  «nd  in 
tbe  Britiab  Muwutn.  VII.  —  GroUa 
dtl  Mart,  a  small  tomb  of  two  ehain- 
bera,  with  four  wa-hones  on  the  pedi- 
ment of  the  outer  one,  two  on  each 
ode  ofa  targe  thctl.  VlU.^Grolta 
M  Barone,  or  GroUa  KrUncr,  dia- 
covered  b;  Baron  Stackelberg  and 
Chev.  Kestner  in  IB3T;  remarkablB 
Ibr  aamv  letj  brilliant  nnd  interesting 
paintings  of  horsemen  preparing  for  the 
nee,  and  of  the  competitors  receiving 
duplets  as  their  prlies  fVom  a  woman 
or  goddess ;  the  whole  designed  and 
executed  in  a  style  more  reiiembting 
the  Egyptian  or  the  arch^  Greek 
than  any  other  eiemplesat  Tarquinii, 
Over  the  door  are  some  sen-horaes 
■nd  dolphina.  Copies  of  the  principal 
paintings  are  preserved  in  the  Gre- 
gorian  Museum.  IX.. — Grolta  Fran- 
trtea,  or  the  GreUa  e.HKiwuni,  dis- 
eovered  by  Chev.  Keslner  in  1833, 
mice  cajvered  with  brilliant  paintings, 
representiog  the  sports  snil  dances 
oliserved  at  the  EtruECan  funerals ; 
but  they  are  gradually  disappearing 
under  the  efTects  of  damp  and  expo- 
sure to  the  atmosphere.  Among  the 
figures  still  visible  are  a  dancing  girl 
of  uncommon  grace  and  elegnnee  of 

dem  in  its  character ;  and  two  others, 
of  life-like  attitude,  playing  the  caa- 
e  double  pipea.     X. — 
iMa  Scrofa  Nero,  the  moA  \n- 


called  frol 


^    UBtts 


le  of  the  group  here  describeil, 
1  from  a  palniing  reprewuliag 
'ith  singular  spirit  sod  ^eedom  Iha 
hunt  of  a  black  wild  sow  by  tvii 
huntsmen  nnd  several  dogs.  BeW 
the  pediment  containing  this  hunt  n 
the  painting  of  ■  bonniiet  which  i) 
continued  along  the  adjoining  waU.- 
Most  of  the  figures  are  obliterated  or 
imperfect ;  but  enough  reiuaim,  both 
of  them  and  of  tile  fiimiture  of  the 
apartment,  to  show  that  the  pai' 
belong  to  a  period  of  Etrusn 
when  the  Egyptian  style  had  been 
discorded  for  the  freer  aiid  more  Haw- 
ing trotline  of  the  Greek.  XI. — 
Grolta  deilt  htrixioM,  discovered  in 
1827,  one  of  the  most  intercstiag  of 
the  series:  over  the  door  are  two 
panthers,  and  in  each  angle  of  tbe 
pediment  is  a  recumbent  fhwn  trhh  a 
goose  Bl  his  feet.  In  the  oppoiiM 
pediment  are  two  lions,  two  deer,  and 
two  panthers,  all  parti-ooloured.  On 
the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  groni 
of  two  figures,  one  representing  ai 
old  man  holding  a  forked  rod  like  a 
gridiron.  Hie  other  a  boy  about  to  lay 
a  fish  upon  a  low  stool,  or  altar,  i  ' 
■a  considered  by  those  who  Bup| 
the  old  man  to  be  the  god  of  chastity 
and  the  whole  scene  to  represent  a 
sacrifice  to  him.  On  the  left  wall  are 
two  men  playing  at  dice  at  a  hollow 
table,  two  men  boxing  will 
cestui,  and  two  wrestlers.  A 
door  in  the  wall  separates  these 
a  procession  of  four  horsemen  and  nu- 
merous attendants  on  foot,  with  dogl^ 
&c.  who  appear  to  have  just  retunud 
iirom  a  race  ;  the  forms  of  the  horMS 
surpass  anything  ever  imagined  by  a 
modem  horse  breeder.  A  baecbia 
dance  fills  the  next  space,  with  donoers 
and  numerous  attendants  bearing 
vases  and  wine  jugs;  and  beyond  the 
second  (alse  door,  the  space  is  occu- 
pied by  a  bearded  figure,  attended  by 
a  slave,  bearing  boughs  of  trees  in  bis 
hand.  These  paintings,  by  their  hard 
tmtline  and  cinggeruted  details,  bear 
evidence  of  their  high  antii]ult7,  and 
are  probably  the  oldcit  which  are  now 
\BJu«aftAB  ^K  ^.Us  loeality.     Almoat 


Papal  States.^  excursions  from  rome  (P.  deila  Badia).  615 


all  the  figures  are  naked  or  nearly  so, 
and  almost  every  one  of  them  bears 
an  inscription ;  but  although  the  letters 
arc  still  legible,  the  meaning  of  the 
words  b  either  altogether  unknown, 
or  merely  a  matter  of  conjecture. 
Copies  of  the  paintings  are  preserved 
in  the  Gregorian  Museum,  and  in  the 
Bronze  room  of  the  British  Museum. 

About  a  mile  from  Cometo,  a  little 
off  the  road  to  Civita  Vecchia,  is  a 
most  interesting  tomb,  called  La  Mer- 
careccia,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and 
originally  carved  with  pilasters  and 
frieses  containing  figures  of  lions, 
bears,  sphinxes,  and  human  victimSi 
The  interior  of  the  outer  chamber  of 
this  remarkable  tomb,  whose  rich  de- 
corations show  that  it  was  the  last 
home  of  some  Etruscan  prince,  was 
covered  with  bas-relie&  representing, 
on  the  friese,  combats  of  wild  beasts^ 
and  on  the  wall  below  figures  of 
men  and  horses,  nearly  as  large  as 
life.  lliough  this  was  almost  an 
unique  example  of  the  internal  sculp- 
tures of  Etruscan  sepulchres,  it  has 
been  allowed  to  fall  into  utter  ruin  ; 
and  the  principal  sculptures  have  been 
lo  much  injured  by  the  shepherds 
who  for  years  have  used  the  tomb  as 
a  sheepifold,  that  most  of  the  figpires 
are  obliterated.  The  drawings  c^  our 
countryman,  Mr.  Byres,  have  how- 
ever preserved  to  us  the  outlines  of 
these  sculptures,  and  those  of  tlM 
paintings  which  covered  the  walls  of 
the  inner  chamber.  The  roof  of  the 
tomb  terminates  in  a  perpendicular 
abaft  SO  feet  long,  which  communi- 
eatcs  with  the  plain  above,  and  ori- 
ginally formed,  no  doubt,  one  of  the 
entrances  to  the  tomb. 

In  the  neighbouring  difib  are  le- 
Tcral  ancient  caverns  of  enormous  siae, 
with  their  roofs  supported  by  huge 
pillars  hewn  out  of  the  rock.  Whether 
these  excavaticms  were  used  as  ca- 
vern temples  by  the  Etruseans,  or 
were  merely  quarries  from  which  they 
derived  the  stone  for  the  building  of 
Tarquinii,  they  are  both  curious  and 
interesting,  and  well  dtierve  •  visit 
from  the  erBh»elogirt. 


Gravi9C€B,  the  port  of  Tarquinii, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Marta^ 
is  still  traced  by  some  remarkable  re* 
mains  of  massive  masonry,  which  are 
described  towards  the  close  of  Route 
35a.  (p.  186.) 

The  roads  leading  from  Cometo  to 
Ponte  delU  Badia,  the  site  of  Vulci, 
and  to  Toscanella,  the  ancient  Tus^* 
cania,  are  practicable  only  for  a  very 
light  carriage ;  so  that  in  this  as  in 
many  other  excursions  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Rome,  the  traveller  who 
visits  the  district  on  foot  or  on  horse* 
back,  will  be  much  less  impeded  than 
those  who  are  encumbered  with  a 
carriage  unsuitcd  to  the  nature  of  the 
ground.  Those  who  cannot  ride,  had 
better  provide  themselves  with  a  light 
earriage  at  Civita  Vecchia. 


POVTK   DKLLA    BaDIA  (VuLCI). 

Travellers  who  visit  Vulci  had  better 
make  Montalto  their  head-quarters^  aa 
the  castle  at  the  Ponte  della  Badia 
swarms  with  vermin,  and  Vulci  is 
desolated  by  malaria  in  the  hot 
months.  Canino  is  also  to  be  avoided 
for  the  same  reason.  At  Montalto  they 
must  also  supply  themselves  with 
provisions,  as  none  are  to  be  obtained 
elsewhere.  Vulci  is  S8  miles  N.  W.  of 
Cometo.  The  road  follows  that  from 
Civita  Vecchia  to  Leghorn  (described 
in  Route  S5a.  p.  186.)  as  fiu  as  Mont- 
alto, when  a  branch  road  of  7  or  8 
miles,  praotieaMe  fbr  li^t  carriages, 
strikes  inland  along  the  valley  of  the 
Flora  to  the  Ponte  della  Badia,  and 
the  eestle  which  adjoins  it.  This 
eestle,  a  fine  Gothio  fortress  of  the 
middle  ages,  with  towers  and  battle- 
ments, forms  a  picturesque  object  in 
the  approach.  It  is  situated  on  the 
precipitous  banks  of  the  Fiora,  whioh 
is  still  spanned  by  the  magnificent 
bridge,  partly  Etruscan  and  partly 
Roman,  from  whieh  it  derives  its 
name.  It  ia  now  garriaoned  by  a  fow 
soldierB  and  eustom-bouse  oflicers, 
and  is  one  of  the  frontier  stations  on 
thia  ride  of  the  Pk^  atatea.    Thi^ 


616      ixccitsioKs  MOM  soME(ftnte*fi'«  Ba^o)'.-'! 


bridg**  •Well  urtms  lo  form 

'^       -        ■      rch.  Dboot    115  foul 
'ITie  pimi  of  the 


idg:o«i 


■ris  evidenlt;  £truKan 
'  is  tbeit  eb»r»elcr  i  themasoory  which 
s  Ihem,  •nd  (he  travertine  iircb 
evidently  Romnti ;  no  (list 
nee  regard  the  bridge  as 
I  Roman  work  on  EiruMsn  pieni. 
~ie  width  of  the  bridge  ia  10  feel, 
s  parapeli  ate  so  high  a>  to 
It  Uie  pnM[wcI  on  all  tides  :  in 
the«  parapet*  ii  a  channel 
^hieb  ■«rvod  for  the  pasnge  of  au 
jueduet,  the  waters  of  which,  in  ages 
ed  out  of  the  maaoary 
_i  Girnied  enormoui  maacs  of  sta. 
^,_JDlitc»,  which  Mill  overhang  the  side 
rf  the  bridge  above  the  smaller  aich 
whieh  aervei  to  lighten  the  masonry 
oa  the  right  bank.  About  a  mile  b^ 
low  the  brid^,  a  plateau  of  3  miles 
in  circuit,  but  slightly  elevated  above 
the  right  bank  of  the  Flora,  was  tbe 
dte  of  andent  Vulci,  ■  aity  destroyed 
by  Titua  Coruncaniui  ailei  the  fall  of 
Tarquiniii  ,but  scarcely  Bny  remains 
■ra  now  visible,  and  of  those  tlieie  are 
vetj  few  fragment)  which  are  not 
Roman,  and  of  as  late  a  date  as  the 
time  of  Constsniine.  The  Necropolis 
of  Vulci  occupied  the  moorland  roun- 
tiy  on  both  banks  of  the  Flora  i  that 
on  the  lefl  bank  is  supposed  to  have 
been  connected  with  the  city  by  one 

one  only  arc  visible  at  a  spot  called 
"II  Pelago."     The  fii 


entlya. 


arte,  Prir 


a  of  Can 


c  lat 


Lncien 

brought  to  light,  within  a  space  of 
^lout  4  acres,  no  less  than  2000  vases 
and  other  specimens  of  Etruscan  orL 
The  brothers  Campanari,  and  others 
who  had  land  in  the  neighbourhood, 
n  joined  "       '  ■  ■   - 


that  t 


I  \'ulci 


meiliButted 
art,  contributing  untold  wealth  t 
firoprietors,    and    ciirlolilng  the 
aeiiiiis  of  London,   Paris,  Sl.TWei*-' 


burg,  and  Munich  with  treesuret 
more  valuable  to  ihem  then  gold. 
The  lDml»  at  Vulci  &re,  with  one 
eiception.  lunlc  beneath  the  levd 
surlace,  in  direct  contradistinelioD 
to  the  tumuli  of  Tarquiuii.  So 
great  bas  been  the  mereeoary  ch^ 
racter  of  the  eicaraton  that  scuedy 

wtHch  lias  not  been  titled  up  with 
earth  as  soon  a»  it  has  been  rifled  of 
its  contents,  and  when  those  ot 
have  not  appeared  lo  the  cic 
to  possess  great  money  value,  tltey 
have  been  wantonly  destroyed.  It  a 
Iherefure  hardly  surprising  that  there 
is  only  one  tomb  now  aecesslble  in 
the  Necropolis  on  the  ude  of  tba 
Punte  detia  Badia,  the  "  Grotia  M 
Sole  e  della  Luna,"  a.  very  cuiiout 
tomb  of  eight  chambers,  with  moulded 
ceilings  and  panels  oa  the  walls,  all 
cut  in  the  solid  rock.  Near  this  was 
situated  tbe  only  painted  tomb  en 
discovered  at  Vulci,  now  entirely  A 
alroyed,  but  the  paintings  of  whi« 
are  fortunately  preaerved  by  copies  ia 
tliB  Bronze  room  of  the  British  Mu- 
seum,  and  in  the  Museo  Gregoriano 
of  tlie  Vatican.  Not  far  from  tfab 
was  tbe  lumulaa  opened  by  Campa^ 
nari  in  IBS.i,  and  in  which  be  fonnd 
the  skeleton  sf  a  warrior  with  his 
helmet  on  his  head,  bis  ring  on  his. 
6nger,  and  his  broniiB  shield  still 
hanging  heside  him  on  the  walL  An 
adjoining  chamber,  in  which  he  found 
some  beautiful  vases,  was  evidently 
the  tomb  of  the  warrior's  wife.  In 
another  tomb  near  this  was  found  tbs 
skeleton  of  a  child  surrounded  by  ita 
toys.      In  the  Necropolis  on  Iheoflier 

tombs   have    been   opened,    and    yet 
there  is  hardly  one  which  has  been 
left   open.       In    the    middle    of   the 
plain,  however,  is  the  remarkable  b 
mulus   ealleil    "La    Cucumella,"    I 
feet  high,  and  about  GOO  feet  in  ci 
cumfcrence,    which    was    opened    by 
Lucien    Buonaparte    in    I8S9,    whett 
the  mound  was  encircled  by  a  wall  oT 
mosonry.     Above  Uiis  wall  were  found 
I  «im«  HDiU.  w^alebtaL  chambers,  and 


Papal  Siaies,2  excursions  from  rome  {Musignano).       617 


in  the  centre  of  the  mound  were 
found  two  towers  about  40  feet  high, 
one  square,  the  other  round,  sup> 
porting  several  sphinxes  on  their  sum- 
mits, while,  at  their  base,  a  long  pas- 
sage guarded  by  sphinxes  led  to  two 
small  chambers  of  massive  masonry, 
containing  nothing  more  than  some 
fragments  of  bronze  and  gold,  and 
bearing  evident  proofs  that  they  had 
been  rifled  many  years  before.  Near 
this  tumulus  is  a  small  low  one  called 
Jja  Rotonda,  walled  round  with  a 
single  course  of  stone,  in  which  some 
very  beautiful  vases  were  discovered ; 
and  further  on  is  another  called  the 
Cucumelletta,  which  was  opened  by 
Lucien  Buonaparte  in  1 832,  and  found 
to  contain  five  chambers.  At  that 
part  of  the  Necropolis  of  Vulci»  west- 
ward oi  the  Ponte  Sodo,  now  called 
PoUedrara,  was  found  the  extraordi- 
nary tomb,  in  which  a  bronxe  effigy 
of  an  Etruscan  lady,  and  a  marble 
effigy  of  another  with  Egyptian  vases 
and  ostrich  eggs  painted  with  Egyp- 
tian sphinxes,  Egyptian  alabaster 
figures,  and  ointment  pots  in  the  form 
of  Isis,  a  bone  spoon,  two  bronze  cars, 
and  other  objects  of  the  highest  in- 
terest were  discovered.  Of  the  many 
thousands  of  beautiful  vases  which 
have  been  and  are  still  daily  brought 
to  light  at  Vulci,  every  museum  in 
Europe,  both  public  and  private,  con- 
tains so  many  examples  that  it  is  un- 
necessary to  particularise  them  further 
than  to  say  that  by  far  the  greater 
part  of  them  are  of  Greek  workman- 
ship, and  bear  the  artists*  names  which 
are  borne  by  the  vases  of  Nola  and 
Campania. 

MUSIGNAKO. 

In  proceeding  from  Ponte  della 
Badia  to  Toscanella,  the  traveller 
should  pay  a  visit  to  this  interesting 
chateau,  the  property  and  fitvourite 
residence  of  the  late  Lucien  Buona- 
parte, Prince  of  Canino^  and  now  the 
property  of  his  son,  Charles  Lucien. 
It  is  a  drive  of  about  three  hours  from 
Ponte  della  Badia.  The  eh4teau  is  a 
plain  and  unprttcnding  building,  and 


is  not  only  remarkable  for  its  museum 
of  antiquities  found  on  the  site  of 
Vulci,  but  is  interesting  as  a  specimen 
of  an  estate  arranged  with  taste  and 
fiirmed  with  great  skill,  by  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  men  of  science  of 
our  time.  The  collection  of  antiques 
differs  from  almost  all  the  others  which 
the  stranger  will  have  an  opportunity 
of  examining  out  of  Rome,  in  the 
Egyptian  character  of  the  monuments 
it  contains.  Some  of  the  finest  vases 
and  bronzes  which  have  yet  been  dis- 
covered in  any  part  of  Etruria  were 
formerly  in  the  prince's  museum,  but 
he  found  it  necessary  to  sell  them,  and 
they  are  now  to  be  sought  for  in  the 
British  Museum,  in  Paris,  and  in 
Munich.  The  chateau,  however,  con- 
tains a  most  interesting  collection  of 
portraits  of  the  celebrated  members  of 
the  family,  which  will  alone  repay  a 
visit.  Musignano  was  purchased  by 
the  late  Lucien  Buonaparte  in  the 
pontificate  of  Pius  VII.,  and  con- 
stitutes, with  Canino,  the  joint  prin- 
cipality from  which  he  derives  his  title 
as  a  Roman  prince. 

The  village  of  Canino  is  occupied 
chiefly  by  the  workmen  engaged  in 
the  neighbouring  iron-works,  and  pre- 
sents no  objects  of  interest  beyond 
sepulchral  excavations  in  the  cliff 
on  which  it  stands,  the  last  traces  of 
a  city  whose  name  has  perished. 
There  is  a  **  Locanda  **  in  the  village, 
but  it  is  both  miserable  and  dirty. 

TOSCAKSLLA   (TuSCANIA.) 

Toscanella  is  15  miles  from  Vulci, 
17  from  Cometo,  16  from  Monte- 
fiascone,  14  from  Viterbo,and  18  from 
Vetralla.  From  Canino,  Vulci,  Cor- 
neto,  and  Viterbo,  the  road  is  prac- 
ticable for  the  carriages  of  the  country. 
There  is  a  small  inn  kept  by  Pandol- 
fini,  which  is  tolerably  clean  and 
moderate,  but  the  traveller  should  en- 
deavour to  provide,  himself  with  in- 
troductions to  some  resident  £Eimily 
in  the  town.  If  we  visit  it  from  Cor- 
neto,  the  journey  occupies  from  four 
to  five  hours,  and  b  more  easily  per- 
formed on  horseback  than  in  any  other 


STCtniSTovt  TRfiw -iityMs-if  7b«a«tffir),  - 


I.«ining  Coriicto.  tliB  rosd  dc- 
■  a  the  '■Ilty.  ""•inding  ("ili'd 
til*  twe  of  llw  hill  on  which  tlw  town 
U  built.  Il  then  enter*  on  •  drwry 
evuntrjr,  wlilcb  offcri  no  nttraclion 
cttvpt  llie  pielimiquc  medieval 
lovers  «>id  t«tlleinenled  wallinFTos- 
oiodUa,  which  bunt  upon  the  virv 
slmial  immwiiiiteljf  after  we  leave 
Corneto,  A  large  chamber  in  the 
rock,  near  whicli  the  road  ptaset  be- 
Ivreeu  the  two  towns,  supplied  maay 
■ntiquttic*  to  the  British  Mihediti. 
Tha  tbna-htion  of  TuacanU  U  si- 
Iributed  1  J  some  nuthoritiea  to  Ana- 
niui,  the  wm  of  JEvfia,  but  it*  earl; 

sciiritj  which  hanpi  over  so  many 
cities  of  Etruria.  The  modem  name 
b  traced  to  the  b^inninj;  of  the 
l4th  century,  when  Tosennella,  from 
its  eomoKinding  position  on  a  hill 
Averlonking  the  plain,  was  a  place  of 
considerable  strength.  Nothing  can 
be  imagined  more  picturesque  than 
the  appearanee  of  the  town,  sur- 
loonded  by  its  walU  and  towen, 
which  carry  the  mind  bark  to  the 
middle  ages,  when  it  was  one  of  the 
■trongholds  of  Francesco  Sfona,  and 
sustained  many  a  siege  in  the  event- 
ful Btru^le*  of  that  period. 

The  height  of  Sin  Pietro,  which  is 
beyond    the   modern  walls,  was  un- 


it city,  and  in  all  probo- 

its  Arx,     The  munmit  is 
.inted    by    eight    square 


double  towers  of  m 

striking  object  fivm  all  parts  of  the 
surrounding  country.  Very  little  now 
remains  of  the  aneienC  elty  on  this 
summit    beyond    substructions    and 

Rontnn  times.    In  the 

were  discoveiBd  b  few 
the  height  of  San  Fi' 

the  Caliitilral  of  itie  same  name,  a  very 
interesting  edifice  in  the  earliest  style 
of  Italian  Golhie,  which  is  supposed  to 
dale  from  the  Sth  ceniury.  It  is 
Iniik  of  frngmcnts   ot  ancient  buiW- 


ings  :  the  great  Jourway  lias  a  rot 
headed  arch  ufiingular  rlchnes,  with 
a  TOW  window  and  arcade^  gallerief 
aliove,  the  whole  enriched  with  saiiia 
»try  curious  seulplUTes  of  the  Trinity, 
angels,  saints,  men.  devils,  chima 
beasts,  birds,  and  reptiles  of  eilr 
dinary  variety  nnd  of  most  grotesque 
expression.  The  IntL-rior  was  u«e 
covered  with  frescoes,  but  they  have 
nearly  disappeared,  from  damp  Bad 
neglect.  The  Komnii  pillars  vhicli 
support  the  roof  were  evidently  taken 
from  ancient  buildings.  The  Rnl 
rests  on  an  antique  altar.  From  the 
nave  a  flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  h^ 
altar,  below  which  is  the  crypt,  a 
highly  curious  and  iostructlTC  frag^ 
ment  of  the  Christian  architecture  of 


collected  from  all  kinds  of  buildings 
of  Roman  as  well  as  Etruscan  origin. 
Il  is  supposed  to  have  been  an  ancienl 
Roman  bath,  built  on  the  IbundatioDi 
of  an  Etruscan  temple.  Near  the  CB> 
Ihedial  is  the  church  of  8ta,  Maria,  de> 
corated  eiternally  with  fen ts&ticseulp- 
turct  nmilar  toiboseof  the  cathediaL 
Beyond  these  ecclesiastical  edifies 
there  is  uothing  of  any  remarkable 
interest  in  Toscanella,  except  the 
house  and  garden  of  Ihe  Campaniii, 
a  family  known  throughout  £unqw 
as  having  been  among  the  first  and 
most  successful  labourers  in  the  field 
of  Etruscan  exploration  and  reaendit 
Signor  Csmpanari's  residence  U  WW 
(rfthe  most  interesting  in  the  town, 
and  eonlains  some  valuable  tombs  and 
other  treasures  dFscovered  in  Mie  ti- 
ll these  are  not  so 


vable  I 


le  lightei 


which  speedily  find 
therefore,  they  may  now  be  almost 
contidered  as  permanent  Rxlures  mi 
the  premises.  The  garden,  especially, 
is  perfectly  unique  in  character  Mid 
arrangement ;  saroiqihagi,  with  fiilU 
length  portrait  figures  of  every  va- 
riety and  of  every  age  upon  their  lidi, 
are  scstlered   here  and  there  among 


nile  of 


i 


Papai  States.']    excursions  from  rome  {Sovana). 


619 


a  tomb  which  Signer  Campanari 
brought  to  light  in  1839,  constructed 
on  the  exact  model  as  to  size  and  ar- 
rangement, and  containing  ten  of  the 
twenty-seven  sarcophagi  and  other  ar- 
ticles found  in  the  original  sepulchre. 
The  figures  on  these  coffins,  both 
males  and  females,  are  in  recumbent 
attitudes ;  they  hold  goblets  in  their 
hands,  and  form  together  a  fomily 
banquet  of  the  dead.  Asa  large  por- 
tion of  the  treasures  discovered  by  the 
Campanari  have  found  their  way  to 
the  Gregorian  Museum,  we  need  not 
more  particularly  describe  them  here; 
but  it  is  impossible  to  take  leave  of 
the  subject  without  expressing  the 
deep  obligations  under  which  every 
•tudent  of  Etruscan  art  has  been  laid 
by  the  learning,  the  research,  and  the 
conscientious  industry  of  the  Campa- 
nari family.  On  the  heights  opposite 
Toscanella,  and  in  the  difis  of  the  ra- 
vines around  it,  we  may  still  trace  the 
situation  of  the  ancient  Necropolis. 
The  roost  interesting  tomb  now  ae- 
cesaible  is  that  called  the  Grotta  della 
Regina,  a  large  irregular  chamber 
with  two  massive  columns  supporting 
the  roof,  and  remarkable  for  its  la- 
byrinth, a  passage  cut  in  the  rock 
and  communicating  from  one  wall  of 
the  tomb  to  the  other.  Most  of  the 
Toscanella  tombs  are  sunk  beneath 
the  surface  like  those  of  Vulci ;  and 
an  unusually  large  number  of  them 
are  columbaria. 

No  traveller  who  has  not  visited 
from  some  other  point  the  wondrous 
cavern-tombs  of  Sovana,  should  leave 
Toscanella  ond  its  neighbourhood 
without  extending  his  researches  to 
that  spot.  Before,  however,  we  de- 
scribe Sovana  and  some  other  Etrua- 
can  sites  which  must  be  passed  on  the 
way,  it  may  be  as  well  to  mention, 
for  the  information  of  thonc  who 
desire  to  proceed  to  Viterbo,  that  a 
good  road  from  Toscanella  leads  us 
direct  to  that  city,  distant  about  five 
hours*  drive.  On  leaving  Toscanella 
the  road  winds  up  a  valley  filled  with 
ancient  tombs»  excavated  in  the  rocks, 
like  those  which  oecur  so  abundantly 


in  all  the  valleys  of  this  district. 
From  some  parts  of  the  road  the  four 
Etruscan  cities  of  Corneto,  Tosca- 
nella, Viterbo,  and  Montefiascone  are 
visible  at  the  same  time,  and  form 
one  of  the  most  striking  panoramas  of 
the  journey.  About  halif  way  between 
Toscanella  and  Viterbo,  considerably 
off  the  road,  is  Castel  d*  Asso,  whose 
cavern-sepulchres  are  described  at 
p.  228.  The  traveller  may  visit  them 
without  difficulty,  en  route,  but  it  will 
perhaps  be  more  desirable  to  proceed 
direct  to  Viterbo  (p.  224. ),  and  make 
CSastel  d*  Asso  the  subject  of  a  sepa^ 
rate  excursion  from  that  town :  in 
fact,  he  may  advantageously  make 
Viterbo  his  head-quarters  for  a  day 
or  two,  and  explore  the  many  inte- 
resting objects  in  the  town  and  neigh** 
bouibood.  On  his  road  to  Rome  he 
may  visit  Sutri  and  Veii,  both  of 
which  have  already  been  described. 

SovAMA  (Suana). 

As  this  place  lies  within  the  Tus* 
can  frontier,  the  traveller  had  better 
have  his  passport  en  rigle  before  leav- 
ing Rome,  particularly  if  he  intend 
to  prolong  his  tour  to  Cosa  and  Or- 
betello.  The  road  is  practicable  for 
the  light  carriages  of  the  country, 
but  »  more  suited  to  the  horseman  or 
pedestrian.  The  distances  are— >  from 
Toscanella  to  Ischia,  14  miles;  from 
Ischia  to  Famese,  S  miles ;  from  Far* 
nese  to  Pitigliano,  32  miles;  from 
Pitigliano  to  Sovana,  2^;  making 
together  31}  miles:  but  these  will 
probably  be  increased  by  a  detour  to 
Castro.  At  Ischia  the  traveller  may 
obtain  accommodation  at  the  Casa 
Faroifi;  at  Famese  there  is  a  small 
osteria  ;  at  Pitigliano,  which  he  must 
make  his  head-quarters,  he  will  find 
most  obliging  and  excellent  treat- 
ment at  the  Casa  Bertocci :  at  Sovana 
there  is  no  accommodation.  AU 
the  places  we  have  mentioned  occupy 
Etruscan  sites,  though  their  ancient 
names  are  either  unknown  or  objects 
of  coi^ecture.  leehia  stands  on  a 
tongue  of  land  between  deep  ravines, 
the  sides  of  which  are  full  of  tombs. 


KXCuWrONs  VROTi  HdM«(Sl9"r(m^.*  -^ 


Amro  ha*  *  liniilar  poiitioti.  aiul  u 
ippowd  to  (ieEU|>)i  the  lite  ot  Ms- 
mum,  •  sUttan  Ml  the  Via  Clodin  : 
ttt  eontaini  ■  palace  of  Prince  Cbigi, 
1  gifo  name  to  the  Fiirneie 
iSj,  who  hare  coniiileratile  pro- 
Ijr  in  thcM  paru.  Cailro,  irluch 
ea  a  tille  to  the  king  ot  Na|>l«, 
m'lla  wist  of  Farnese.  also  occupies 
Elruaean  aile,  suppowd  by  manj 
he  thit  of  Stfllonla,  on  ■  tongue  of 
nelJoui  beauly,iium>und«I 
bj  ni'MCi  d»pcr  and  gloomier  tban 
any  others  in  this  dinrici ;  but  tlic 
town  ia  a  viMcmeis,  haiing  been 
lovallcd  lo  the  ground  by  Innocent  X., 
■■  a  puniahment  for  the  auppmed 
murder  of  the  bittaop  of  the  cee  by 
tba  Duke  Famcw.  Piligliano  Glands, 
like  the  tonoi  ire  hate  described,  on 
a  tongue  of  land  separated  from  the 
■Miglibouriiig  plain  by  deep  chasms, 
the  liilei  of  which  arc  filled  with 
tomba  and  eolumbnriit.  Near  one  o( 
Ihe  gates  called  the  PorU  di  Sotto  are 
fragments  of  the  city  wall, 
high,  and  in  llie  best  atyie 
of  Etruscan  masonry.  On  a  height 
town,  called  the  Poggio 
re  some  traces  of  the  villa 
of  the  Counts  Oraini,  with  which  Ihe 
peaiantry  oBsociate  many  a  romnnlic 
tale:  two  recumbent  figures  hewn  in 
the  rock  are  itill  called  by  them 
"Orlando  and  his  wife."  The  Bccnery 
of  PitigiEano  is  eitremely  fine,  and 
would  afford  occupation  to  the  sketcher 
for  daya  together,  particularly  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  Cascalolla.  An- 
other place  of  even  greater  natural 
lieauty,  but  lying  about  5  miles  off 
the  route  we  have  laid  down,  ia  So- 
TBfii  an  Etruscan  site,  Ihe  name  of 
which  is  lost;  it  abounds  io  scenery 
of  the  grandest  character.  There  ia 
no  inn  there,  but  refreshments  may  be 
,  obtained  at  the  Casa  Farfanti,  though 

i^^  there  are  no  bed*  which  the  traveller 
^H  will  willingly  occupy.  3J  miles  froin 
^Hf  lligliano,  as  we  hare  already  sUled, 
^^^nt  the  village  of  SaiuNa,  occupying 
^Vitbe  site  of  the  Roman  city  of  SujlNa, 

E 


$ 


by    the   dcaffly  i 


Bucnoe  of  malaria.  In  the  yea 
thii  remote  and  almcHt  unknown  vil 
tage  acquired  an  Eurnpesn  Celebris 
hy  the  discoveries  of  our  country 
nir.  Aiiidey,  who  found  iu  the  ni 
around  it  a  s^ies  of  sculptured  It 
more  varied  in  their  chHracler 
more  beautiful  in  their  details 
Ay  which  had  hitherto  been 
throughout  Etruria.  The 
town,  which  in  1 83^  had  a  populaliM 
reduced  by  malaria  to  64,  was  lo  im- 
portant a  place  in  the  middle  ign 
that  it  Fustaincd  a  siege  against  ne- 
derick  II.,  and  its  medisval  rast>« 
with  its  machieolated  battlementt.  it 
still  sUnding.  It  ia  the  birtta-pliM 
of  Hildebrand  (Gregory  VIL),  and 
is  tlill  the  seal  of  a  bishopric,  thaDgb 
the  malaria  gives  the  prelate  a  suffi- 
cient escuse  for  non-residence.  IW 
vcUers  who  have  their  time  M  thor 
own  disposal  should  take  care,  tor  the 

locality  in  the  winter  months  wbeil 
they  may  do  so  with  impunity.  Be- 
(are  eiploring  the  revinei,  it  will  l« 
dearable  to  obtain  some  persoi 

the  village  to  act  as  guide,  i 
passages  are  in  many  cases  in 
and  dangerous:  the  bishop's  p 
will  probably  give  the  best  inl 
lion  as  to  the  persons   quoIiSed  fot. 
this   duty.      The  first  and  most  re 
morkable  tomb   discovered   by   Mi 
Ainsley  is  called  "  La  Fc  ~     ' 


e  tufa  I 


frieze,  below  which  is  i 

nearly  10  feel  high,  wi 

tion  carved  on  ihe  inner  wall,  and  but* 

tresses  on  each  side,  which  probabi]' 

supported  figures.      Thi 

mied  with  an  alto-ielievt 

deity,  with  huge  fishes'  —y^ 

centre,  having  a  male  genius  winged 
on  either  side.  The  design  and  ex- 
ecution  of  these  figures  prove  tlial 
they  belong  lo  a  late  period  of  Elra*. 


Papal  Siates.2    excursions  from  rome  (Saiumia).         621 


unique.  Near  this  is  a  long  line  of 
rock-hewn  tombs,  differing  from  those 
observed  in  the  other  valleys  of  £tru- 
ria  in  the  purely  Egyptian  character 
of  their  outline  and  mouldings,  though 
the  doors  and  inscriptions  are  Etrus- 
can. On  the  opposite  side  of  the  ra* 
vine  is  another  very  remarkable  tomb, 
called  by  the  peasantry  the  **  Grotta 
Pola,**  hewn  out  of  the  tufa  in  the 
form  of  the  portico  of  a  temple.  The 
single  column  which  remains  and  the 
pilaster  behind  it  are  fluted,  and  the 
eapitals  are  formed  of  foliage  which 
somewhat  resembles  the  Corinthian  : 
Mr.  Ainsley  considers  that  they  have 
human  heads  in  the  middle  of  each 
face,  the  whole  of  which  retains  traces 
of  red  colour.  The  pediment  has  lost 
its  sculptures  if  any  such  ever  existed 
in  it,  but  the  part  of  the  soffit  which 
remains  is  still  decorated  with  medal- 
lions. From  the  traces  of  art  on  the 
adjoining  rocks,  Mr.  Ainsley  con« 
eludes  that  the  portico  formed  a  part 
of  a  much  larger  monument,  forming 
**  an  union  of  objects  of  architectural 
grandeur  not  to  be  seen  in  any  other 
part  of  Etruria."  Many  other  tombs 
of  exceeding  interest  are  found  in  the 
same  line  of  cliff,  but  the  most  re- 
markable are  a  series  of  tombs  hewn 
into  the  forms  of  houses,  presenting 
the  most  perfect  characteristics  of  the 
domestic  architecture  of  the  Etruscans. 
Nearly  every  monument  has  its  in- 
scription, carved,  not  on  the  cornice, 
but  within  the  moulded  doorway. 
Altogether  it  is  impossible  to  imagine 
any  spot  which  offers  a  more  fertile 
field  for  the  archaeologist  or  the  ex- 
plorer, 

Saturnia. 

About  8  miles  beyond  Sovana  is  the 
site  of  Saturnia,  which  presents  us 
with  archaeological  attractions  dif- 
fering from  those  of  every  other  site 
we  have  described.  Independently 
of  its  interest  to  the  antiquary^  as 
one  of  the  four  cities  which  Dionysius 
describes  as  having  been  built  by  the 
aborigines,  Saturnia  is  a  place  which 
every  artist    and    lover  of  natural 


beauty  will  be  rejoiced  to  visit.  It 
is  impossible  to  conceive  anything 
more  delightful  than  the  scenery  with 
which  it  is  surrounded,  or  more  rich 
in  colour  and  effect  than  the  valley 
of  the  Albegna^  with  its  numberless 
tributary  streams.  The  modern  vil- 
lage, however,  is  a  wretched  place* 
with  less  than  fifty  inhabitants,  who 
are  regularly  driven  away  in  summer 
by  the  malaria.  The  only  house  in 
which  the  traveller  can  venture  to 
pass  a  night  is  that  of  the  owner  of 
the  place,  the  Marchese  Ximenes, 
whose  steward  is  allowed  to  receive 
strangers  on  terms  which  are  reason- 
able, considering  the  accommodation 
he  affords. 

The  traveller  who  has  made  Piti- 
gliano  his  head-quarters  in  the  pre- 
vious excursions,  will  have  two  ways 
of  reaching  Saturnia  from  that  town ; 
the  first  and  most  direct  is  a  bridle 
path  of  12  miles  which  descends  the 
valley  of  the  Lente,  fords  the  Flora 
just  above  its  junction  with  that 
stream,  and  thence  crosses  the  moun- 
tains to  Saturnia,  which  is  situated  on 
an  isolated  hill  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Albegna.  From  Sovana  the  tra- 
veller may  proceed  to  Saturnia  with- 
out returning  to  Pitigliano,  by  an- 
other bridle  path  of  8  miles,  which 
fords  the  Flora  higher  up  the  valley, 
ascends  thence  to  S.  Martino,  and 
proceeds  along  the  crest  of  the  hills 
through  Poggio  to  Saturnia.  Those 
who  have  reached  Pitigliano  in  a  car- 
riage will  find  an  excellent  carriage 
road  of  17  miles  from  that  place  to 
MancianOf  the  Papal  dogana,  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  rocky  height  be- 
tween the  Flora  and  the  Albegna, 
crowned  with  a  ruined  castle,  and 
commanding  a  magnificent  view  over 
the  Tuscan  and  Papal  frontiers. 
From  Manciano  another  carriage  road 
leads  to  Montemerano,  another  town 
perched  upon  a  rocky  hill,  the  slopes 
of  which  are  covered  with  olives. 
From  this  place  to  Saturnia  the  dis- 
tance is  3  miles,  but  the  road  is  not 
practicable  for  carriages. 

Saturnia,  as  we  have  said,  is  situated 


■     Sn« 


I 


M)    on    iauLnleil  bill    ruing  ahtuiitly  |  iltiahei).  sn   nltar   bearing  the 
llie  luft  bank  <rf  Ihc  AllwRna,   of  Marcus  AurcliuB,  another  s 
>pot  whin  (ho  lolly  mouiitnin^   bear   tfac    n>me    of  ADtoniiiuB 
h   bound   ttutt    ilrvaro    funn  a .  and   »Tne    inscriptions   wliidk    onlf 
■mphitliMlre  around  il.      From    serve  to    shcn*  the     i    '  ■ 

side  we  ii|ipnuich  it,  the  Romnn  colon^- 
_  ...  liirtifieations  vbich  have  Tlie  Nearopolia  of  Saturnia  is  si- 
Man  built  upon  the  ruins  at  tbe  an-  tuated  9  milet  from  the  uty,  in  A* 
■iaU  walla  randn  it  a  oonipicuous  low  (tround  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mid  iiii|ia«ng  obj«l.  Tbtrae  foitifi'  Albegna,  al  a  spot  called  bj  tlie  pe*> 
Mtiow  are  now  in  ruins,  and  eiTrjitu-  nmlry  the  Pian  di  Paluia.  Xb* 
■Ijjr  eonecsl  all  but  three  or  four  '  tombs,  which  are  there  round  in  great 
ta^Dicnls  of  the  ancient  nuHonry.  abundance,  art  of  ruder  coiutrueti 
71w  morl  perfect  and  interesting  of  than  any  which  are  noxr  known 
tbeae  ate  «en  on  cither  side  uf  the  Elruria,  and  are  altogether  unliliB 
Porta  Humana,  where  they  present  a  those  which  have  been  diwotered  in 
in«  example  of  polygonal  arobitec-  other  Italian  cities,  whether  Pebi^ 
lutei  the  blooka  are  of  traveriinc,  and  or  Etruscan.  They  bear  a  atrikii^ 
aire  fitted  together  with  a  precision  ,  resemblance  to  the  Druidical  crois- 
vbioh  ia  the  >noie  remarkable  when  techs  of  Devonshire  and  Cornwall, 
the  hard  nature  of  the  material  licon-  'and  especially  to  some  of  the  sepul- 
mdered.  The  Roman  pavement  of,chrBl  aionuments  which  the  Re*.  S>- 
the  Via  Clodia,  which  passed  through  |  muel  Howe  haa  luade  known  to 
this  gate  from  R4>mp,  is  ft  111  visible  |btB  ititennting  work  on  theantiqi 
at  the  gateway,  and  lor  a  considerable  I  of  Dartmoor.  These  torobt  are 
distance  beyond  il.  Four  other  Ko-  cells  or  chambers  very  slightly  sank 
nuui  roads  are  traceable  in  other  direc-  I  beneath  the  surface;  their  '  **" 
lioas,  which  appear  to  have  led  to  |  being  from  S  to  18  feet,  the! 
Rusella,  Siena,  Chiusi,  and  Cosa ;  |  somewhat  less,  and  their  liei| 
tha  latter  is  particularly  visible  as  it  5  to  G  feet  Two  of  the  t 
sweeps  down  the  valley  of  the  Al-  lined  with  la^  upright  and  ito* 
begna,  A  (ew  hundred  yards  west-  |  wrought  slabs  of  stone,  npoi  *'  '" 
ward  of  tbe  Porta  Romaoalsasguarai,  is  laid  a  covering,  consisting  e 
BiasB  of  travertine  about  15  feet  in  i  one  enormous  slab  slightly  ii 
baight,  which  has  been  hewn  into  as  if  to  carry  off  tbe  rain,  or  of  two 
brm  u^n  the  spat,and  slightly  oma- I  equally  rude  and  massive  slabs  laid 
mented  with  architectural  mouldings  I  together  so  as  to  form  a  gable  lact. 
and  pilasters.  At  one  end  are  tlie  In  some  cases  the  interior  is  divided!' 
lemains  of  steps  leading  to  the  sum- 1  into  two  or  even  three  compartnienli 
mit,  on  which  are  seen  sunk  in  the  i  by  a  central  stone  or  stones,  wbidi) 
rooky  surface  three  parallel  graves,  or  j  serve  also  to  sustain  tli "  ^        -  -^ 

aarcophagi,  if  we  may  so  term  them  j  |  bent  maw.      Many  of 
ttut  nothing  remains  to  show  by  what  approached  hy  a  passage,   10   o 
means  they    were  covered.      Within;  feet  in  length,  lined  also  with  ri 
the  walls  there  is  scarcely  anything  of  stones  ;  and  there   is  uo  doubt 
antiquarian  interest  I  a  large  enclosure   they  were  covered  by  tumulL 
oalled  the  Bngno  Secoo,  about  50  Ibet   thing  has  been  discovered  at  pri 
square,  has  been  taken,  as  its  name  j  in   this  necropolis  to  connect  it  wittk 
implies,  for  a  Roman  bath :  and  .in   the  Etruscans.      When,  therefore,  wi 
the  modern  village,   which  still  pre-   consider   the    antiquity   assigned    t 
lerves    ilic   name   of    the   aboriginal '  Saturnia  by   Dionysius,  and    find    i 
city,  are  some  antiquities  of  lloman    corroborated  by  the  fact  that  it  bean 
times,  a  pilaster  with  a  fluted  column   the    most    ancient   name   which  i 


Papal  Suues.2    excursions  from  rome  {Cosa,  etc,).         623 


given  to  Italy  herself,  we  cannot  hesi- 
tate in  regarding  these  tombs  as  the 
work  of  the  Pelasgi. 

From  Saturnia  the  traveller  will,  in 
all  probability,  return  to  Pitigliano,  or 
proceed  through  Montemerano  to 
Orbetello.  If  he  take  the  former 
course,  it  may  be  useful  to  mention 
that  Pitigliano  is  18  miles  distant 
from  the  high  road  to  Rome,  at  Ac- 
quapendente  :  if  he  pursue  the  latter 
course,  he  will  find  Montemerano  27 
miles  from  Orbetello,  which  is  fully 
described  in  our  account  of  the  new 

* 

road  from  Leghorn  to  Civita  Veo^ 
ehia.  Route  25a, 

CosA,  Vktulonia,   Rusxlub,  Popu- 

I.0N1A,    AND    VOLTERRA. 

The  traveller  who  has  advanced  to 
the  Tuscan  frontier  fh>m  the  side  of 
^me,  in  search  of  the  Etruscan  an- 
tiquities which  give  so  great  an  inte- 
rest to  the  district,  should  extend  his 
tour  along  the  new  road  recently  con- 
structed by  the  Tuscan  government 
from  Civita  Vecchia  to  Leghorn,  as  a 
part  of  their  extensive  operations  in 
the  Maremma.  In  the  neighbourhood 
of  Orbetello  he  will  find  Ansedonia, 
marking  the  site  of  Cosa  ;  iu  the 
neighbourhood  of  Magliano  he  will 
find  the  site  of  the  long-lost  city  of 
Vktulomia;  near  Grosseto,  he  will 
see  the  massive  ruins  which  promise 
to  perpetuate  the  name  and  memory 
of  RusxLLwB  to  the  latest  posterity; 


near  Piombino  he  will  be  able  to  ex- 
plore the  ruins  of  Populomia  ;  and 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Cecina  he  may 
explore  the  boracic  acid  works  of  the 
Maremma,  and  proceed  thence  to 
VoLTERRA,  thus  Completing  in  one 
excursion  from  Rome  a  visit  to  every 
important  Etruscan  site  along  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  All  the 
places  and  roads  we  have  now  men- 
tioned, except  Volterra,  are  fully  de- 
scribed in  Route  25.  Volterra,  it  is 
almost  needless  to  say,  is  described  in 
the  account  of  the  road  from  Florence 
to  Rome  by  Siena,  Route  26.  Re- 
turning to  Rome  by  this  road,  the 
traveller  may  make  a  detour  from  San 
Quirico  to  Chiusi,  and  thence  proceed 
through  Cittil  della  Pieve  to  Orvieto 
and  Montefiascone.  From  Viterbo 
he  may  visit  Castel  d'Asso,  Norchia, 
and  BixDA ;  from  Ronciglione  he  may 
explore  Sutrx;  and  if  disposed  to 
conclude  his  exploration  of  Etruscan 
cities  by  a  visit  to  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting both,  in  historic  interest  and 
in  natural  beauty,  he  may  proceed 
fipom  Monterosi  to  Civita  Castellana, 
and  examine  the  sites  of  the  two  Fa- 
LERU,  taking  Veu  on  bis  return  to 
Rome.  All  the  places,  we  have 
named  will  be  found  fUlly  described  in 
our  accounts  of  the  two  roads  fVom 
Florence  to  Rome,  Routes  26.  and 
27. ;  with  the  exception  of  Chiusi  and 
Orvieto,  which  are  described  in  Route 
23.  and  of  Veil,  which  is  noticed  among 
these  Excursions  from  Rome. 


I  S  D  E  I. 


3iil(«SEte  I      TouaitVilal 


■-  (SdKWl).  S*».  J  ttnacfc  u  CoilDii..  «S.  i 
■  .ntanBOikiL  M  KoiM.  5M.  I   dC  ril.r- 

M.  U  Bolotu,  as,;   *ine  Aiti,  al 

„„)IM,  XL ;  IV  M  PliTDgl".  SSn.  1  ».  al 

'     lt««MDi.97.iaLURlR«,n4.(3(.lAlU), 

•  BSS.I  »  It  Steos,  sm.i   FlpiBnllM.  •t 
SwH,  sill  CS&  ;  Fiencfi.  U  Ronit,  sm 

*  «■.  1  Mdi  Intnnti,  it  Slcni.  Sia  915. ; 
-  M  UwS,  U  B«i».  486.  BK.  1  ^aipQlilan, 

M  Itomr,  S13.  CW.;  TOxrtnt,  at  Rone, 
SS&i  Vil*"An««,MMonU!™t!lil,ra7. 
AccMJuoH.  Jlteeola,     gnnd    Mnvcchal  vr 

Ui  nnlb  bi  On^a,  19C. 
.. ,  Clntliul  Annlo.  his  Inttfli  bf  Doiw 

Mloaod  Olulkt  SuiDallo,  ISS. 
AcdiQi,  Ludin,  the  Xatia   tra^edlBD,  liii 

AKhn,  Unu,  now  UonU  S.  Bartslo,  117. 
AchillH.  tlntue  of.  In  Hjde  I'wk,  ropled 

IMm  the  dUoT   u>d  PoUui  on  Monte 

Cuvilln,  37S. 
AciUiu  Glal>rla,tiiiTeintiIeorFtctr.  387. 
Aniui  >Mt«a,117a  i     Atgcnttna,    38s. ; 

PWlw,  386.  BBS  J    FoHff,  U  SoiMle.  BM.  j 

i^l^•,  3TT.  ML  1  Sons  (Giklen),  191. 6m.  i 

Vergiw,  3«l 

AcqiMl^iH.  vUl^e  uid  pHI-alallon,  1&. 

Aoqu*  BoUicante,   ibe  tnppoied  limLU  of 

AcifiieUa,  Ihe  lerriblB  voiBU  of  Pimgla  In 

Acquaria,  itnan  of  the,  at  Tlroll,  »9. 
AeU   of  Ihs  Apmtln,   Qmk   MS.  of  Uii^, 


L,  Boat,  tM  Utempt  to  uieit.M 
[or^uiiu)n.3eo     flutaali,«£  , 


AuU,  S.,  rhurcbn  ol.al  Ravenna.  92.1  30 

Ooti,  >t  Rone,  410. ;  al  Urbine,  lie.    ' 
Aun  afSerrlUf  TulMui   ""■ 


ciu2iio!%i 

tomb.U4i, 


Fcnifl^  SHi  It 


Areuo,  (10. ;   Borpa  s.  Bewdera,  S 

cut*   dl  Cane]]-   ■=■  ■     "—■ - 

Fano.  119.1  Oul 
Hnanili.  IH  ; 

Aipnrio  Gi'rii™  at 
AbtIcoIb,  St.,  lamb 

ABTlculmre  of  tlic  Pipal  Slntra,  ili. ;  of  lfe% 
Tusan  HinnniH,  KH. -,  of  the  Vti  K 
Chuna.  Mi.  AgricuLlural  gartim  at  Boi 
1oiriia(0rto  Agmrioj.M, 

'-" —  '--■—-'■■-- PiJiIhcon (■.0.1 


■go),  a 


;U(Aqua 


KU 


■a.i^' 


JKBEX. 


625 


Agylla,  Pckwgic  city  of,  now  Cervetri,  606. 
Aiiuley,  Mr.,  English  artist,  his  cUtcovery  of 

the  cavern  tombs  at  Sovana,  620. 
Alabaster    manufactory  at  Voltenra,  201.; 

quarries,  SOS. 
Alaric,  king  of  the  Goths,  his  siege  of  Rome, 

513  ;  destroys  the  house  of  Sallust,  370. ; 

besieges  and  captures  Porto,  5S^. 
Alba  Long.t,  site  of,  56S. 
Alba,  Dulcc  of,  his  contests  with  the  Caraf- 

fvsrhi,  565.    His  head-quarters  at  Genax- 

s.ino,  581.    Concludes  treaty  of  peace  at 

Cavi,  581. 
Albacini^  modern  Roman  sculptor,  488. 
Albani,  princely  family  of,  their  palace  at 

Rome,  499.     Villa  built  by  Cardinal  Ales. 

sandro,  53&.    Services  of  Cardinal  Annibale 

to  Urbino,  I4G. 
Albani,  Francesco^  painter,  of  the  Bolognese 

school,  b.  1578,  d.  1660,  SS.  34.  49.  53.  54, 

.')5.  58.  60.  64.  (:6.  97.  119. 169.  4S9.  491.  502. 
'    506,507.508.514.515.516.518. 
Albano,  lake  of,  566. ;  its  emissary,  567. 
— ,  town  of,  570. ;  its  wines,  .GTl. 
Albano,  Monie,  or  M<Hite  Cavi,  the  Alban 

Mount,  565. 
Albanus  rivus,  natural  outlet  of  the  lake  of 

Albano,  bC<i.  566. 
Albarcsc,  quarries  of,  183. 
Albegna  river  (Albinia).  183, 184.  6S1,  G22. 
Albcrgati  Palace,  at  Bologna,  63. 
— —  tomb  of  Vianisio,  69. 
Alberoni,    cardinal,     legate   of   Romagna, 

builds  the  Porta  Alberoni  at  Ravenna,  98. ; 

invades  .San  Marino,  115. 
Albcroro,  village  of,  S4I. 
Jlberti,  Leon  BattistOy  celebrated  Florentine 

architect,  fl.   l.'JgK— 1472.    His  revival  of, 

the  claKsical   style,   in   S.  Francesco   al 

Kimini,  xxv.  1  IS.    His  engagement  at  St. 

Peter's,  38S. 
—  Albfrto^  of  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro,  architect, 

fl.  1580,  46. 
CherubiHO,  of  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro,  painter 

and  engraver,  b.  155S,  d.  1615, 158, 159. 4S7. 
Giovanni^  of  Bcrgo  S.  Sepolcro,  brother 

of  ('herul>ino,  painter,  d.  1601,  15& 
._- .  Durautf,  of  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro,  painter, 

d.  lOl.i,  15H. 
Albertoniy  (ho.  Battiita,    Bolognese  archU 

tcct,  fl.  1<)80,  ri. 
Albinia,  fluv.,  now  the  Albeana,  183. 6S1. 
Albiszi,  Itinaldo  degli,  of  Florence,  rival  of 

Cosmo  de'  Mi  dici,  his  tomb.  1S& 
Albornoz,  cardinal,  general  or  Innocent  VI., 

his  ^nish  college  at  Fologna,  68. ;  founds  I 

the  Atnd<>l  of  Forii,  108.  t  builds  the  walls 

of  Mnrerata, .  135. ;    rebuHds   citadel   of 

SpoUtd,  S73.  i    builds  the  chapel  of  the 

CrocifiiMO  nt  Assisi.    His  tomb  there,  S67. 
Albunea,  site  of  the  grove  of,  544. 
Alcandrit  architect  of  Maccrata,  18tb  century, 

135. 
Alciati,  Cardinal  Francesco,  his  tomb,  425. 
Aldtbrando,  S.,  church  of,  at  Fossombrone, 

1J«. 
Aldobrandini  Villa  at  Rome.  H^. ;    ib.  <it 

Frascati,  built  by  (*ard.  Aldobrandini,  5A7.; 

builds  church  of  S.  Paulo  alle  Tre  Fon- 

tane,  434    Statue  uf  General  ^"rancesco  Al- 
dobrandini, 489.  ! 
Aldobrandini   Marriage,  celebrated  ancient 

iVcsco  s<)  called,  in  the  Vatican,  4S8. 
Aldrovandi,  CountUlisse,  his  scientific  MSS. 

at  Bologna,  39.  Hit  nianufacture  of  earth. 
6Vi»f.  //. 


enware,  63.    Palace  at  Bologna,  built  by 
Card.  Pompeo  Aldrovandi,  63. 

Aldus,  the  printer,  his  MS.  notes  in  the  Bar- 
herini  Library,  501.  Hit  bust  in  the 
Capitol,  4i'8. 

Alemani  Oaeiano,  theatrical  scene  painter  of 
Bologna,  pupil  of  Bibiena.  d.  1788,  69. 

Alencon,  d',  cardinal,  brother  of  Philip  le 
Bel,  his  tomb,  431. 

Aletsandrino,  cardinal,  hit  tomb,  427. 

Atcsst't  Galfosso,  of  Perugia,  architect,  pupil 
of  Bl  Angelo,  d.  1572,  62.  253.  263,  264. 
268.   HU  tomb,  256. 

Alessio,  S.,  church  of,  at  Rome,  412. 

Alexander  Severus,  completes  the  bathtof 
Caracalla,  35a    Hit  own  batht,  353. 

Alexander  III.,  pope,  his  contest  with  Fre. 
derick  Barbarossa,  illustrated  by  Spinello 
Arctino  at  Siena,  2ia  ;  receives  at  Tut- 
culum  the  amlMusadors  of  Hen.  II.  of  £ng. 
land  on  theaffairof  Thomas-d-Becket,559. 

^—  IV.,  pope,  consecrates  and  preserves  the 
tomb  of  &  Constantia,  S6a  4ia  Hit  own 
tomb,224L 

— :VL,  pope  (Borgia),  his  participation  in 
the  massacre  of  Sinigaglia,  120.  Hit  per- 
tecution  of  the  Duke  of  Urbino,  143.  Dc. 
ttroys  an  ancient  pyramid  to  complete  the 
covered  gallery  fW>m  the  Vatican  to  C.  St. 
Angelo,  315.  362.  Buildt  Tor  di  Borgia, 
442. ;  the  Appartamento  Borgia,  483. ;  the 
tower  of  Fiumicino,  598. ;  the  fortrcst  of 
Nettuno,  60i. 

—  VII.,  pope  (Chigi),  great  restorer  of  the 
monuments  and  cliurches  of  Rome,  re- 
stores  portico  of  the  Pantheon  with  co- 
lumns taken  from  baths  of  Nero,  331.  353. ; 
clears  and  repairs  pyramid  of  C.  Cestiut, 
360. ;  raises  obelisk  of  S.  Maria  sopra  Mi- 
nerva, 374. ;  builds  colonnade  of  St.  Peter's, 
383.  ;  erects  the  bronze  door  of  &  John 
Lateran,  taken  from  the  ^milian  Basilica, 
400. :  restores  basilica  of  &  Lorenzo,  407. ; 
builds  the  two  churches  at  the  entrance  of 
Corso,  428: ;  restores  S.  Maria  della  Pace, 
429. :  modernises  S.  Maria  del  Popolo,  429. ; 
rebuilds  a  Maria  in  Trevi,  431. ;  restores 
S.  Maria  Lata,  432.  •,  builds  church  of  the 
Assunzione  at  I'Ariccia,  572. ;  buildt 
church  and  enlarges  palace  of  Castel  Gan- 
dolfo.  567. ;  founds  the  Chigi  labrary,  506. ; 
founds  library  of  the  Sapienza,  5S3.  Hit 
tomb,  389. 

— —  VIII.,  pope  (Ottoboni),  his  tomb,  389L 

Alfani,  DwHcnko  di  Paris^  painter,  of  the 
Umbrian  school,  b.  at  Perugia,  1483, 254. 

,  Orazio  di  Parity  painter  of  the  Um- 
brian school,  b.  about  1510,  d.  1583,  254. 
256,257.260. 

Alfleri,  the  poet,  his  inscription  on  Ariosto's 
MSS.  20.  Tomb  of  his  ancestor  Enrico, 
at  Ravenna,  88.  His  sonnet  on  the  tomb 
of  Dante,  99.  His  epitaph  on  Gandellini, 
211.    His  bust  in  the  Capitol,  488. 

Algardit  Cav.  Aiessandro,  Bolognese  sculp- 
tor, d.  lt>54.  58.  65.  His  bas-relief  of  Leo 
and  Attila  in  St  Peter's,  389.  His  tomb  of 
Leo  XI.,  389.  His  statue  of  S.  Agnes, 
410.  423.  492.  44a  489.  537.  539. 

Algidus  Mons,  5tiii 

Aliense^  Antonio  fauitacchi^  native  of 
Greece,  painter,  of  the  Venetian  school, 
pupil  of  llntoretto,  h.  15.V,  d.  1621',  257. 

Allegri,  Gregorio,  celebrated  com|H)acr,  d. 
lelo,  hit  Miserere,  3*6, 396. 
1.1. 


Apolla,  Umplo  or,  it  Rome,  SS3. 
■  - —  Belndere,  lUlue  oT  the,  tn  Ibe  Vulcan, 
470)  found  u  FortD  d'Anm,  t03. 


-  leiSyfsS  a 


__ , ilMct  Bf  TniliiB"!  Fanu 

£jO.  Hfi.  i  murdircil  In  lhd£n,  SjS. 
JpoUniitit.  ■culpuc,  oT  Atheui,  blinusaii 

(«U»d  nn  till  T^Ro  UtliodBc,  16S. 
Apntoll,  SS..  church  of  the,  Rome,  41*. 
■  AinWhooili  of  Aiumtui,  ce1c4>itl«l  bu  relt 

in  Greek  suible,  al  Uitenna,  Is9. 
AppBitimnilo  Burgia.  tn  the  Vaiican,  iSS. 
Applin  Cnucway  inicBiano.  S73. 
Antiu  ClaudlHt  Ckui,  lilt  Via  Awla  (■ 

VU),  hit  wnieduct  (Amui  AppU),  see. 
A«ia  Fnaniisa.  nmr  MariniL  Uip  vxae  < 

ihcdealliafl'utiiiu  Hen<anlu>,  aG3. 
AqunAlbiiliE,  mi  tha  Solfaura,  543. 
< Tiurl,  now  Bignl  di  FornU,  IBS. 


Aqua  Ap^,  Me.  i  A,  AWetlna,  STA  i  / 
Claudia,  IfiG.  SJU.  ;  A .  Crobri,  3U.  i  J 
CBRtins,  now  Baenl  dl  etmt,  607.  |  i 
Julia.  SM,  A.  M«cl.,  SM^i  A.T 
pUllI,S6G.;  A.VelULJiiS,,  A.VIm.SeS 


A»(nu,  on  ihe  Fo,  Uh  auppoied  ills  of 

Acicntuiiii  Mom,  no*  Halt*  ArgcDlailo, 
Arjadne  ileeplnf.caldiiUeditatiMOI.  tn  tbc 
Arlan  biahopt  of  Ttieodoric,  llielr  ancl«nt 


no,  lula  d',  liland  and  tawn  of,  Sl^  8], 

«a.  L',  town  of  (Arlela],  S!I. 

Arimtnmn.now  RlnUni,  III. 

ArliDlniu,  But.,  non  ihe  Haracchla,  ill. 

Ailoato,  nil  pnKr^t  In  a  piclure  bv  Dflio 
DoHl,17.i  Ml  toob  and  buit  Uriick  bj 
llthtmBa,  17.  i  MS.  of  pan  of  Ibe  Oilanrio 
Faiioui  hli  dialr,  titufile,  md  liikttand, 
30. ;  eiilr  edlttona  of  bla  pooa,  SO. ;  hU 


Aquin^  St  Tt 


tiui- 


SBS. 


til  eeuturi  on  kglilitlee, 

inii't,  Ibe  tapnttliii  of  the  Vatican,  1S4. 

Itca.' Xltnii  Mr.  called  alu  HiccoU>  dl 

~ari,  BulojinaH  iculptor,  rl.  1494.  H.  St. 

ii,  Etruicin  archednaf  of  lollil  maunrr 


In  the  Ca^tDl.  (BU. 
AililO|ihanH,  tbe  until 


at  Cliiuil.  1 


LtnD.orAug 


'ano,118.: 


otOrimi',ib.3n.;  Etmtcan.at  t^sniaia. 
RSI, I  of  Vabiiu,  at  I(one,ia!l.i  ot  U*l-  i 
liinuL  MS.  i  ot  JaniH  UudriAwi,  a.  I 
3W.  1  of  U.  OpUlw  Uxainui  (II).  at  iipello, 
t!70. 1  of  111111,  *l  Rume,  349,  i  of  Tralan,  I 
at  Arcona,  m.1  or  HtfL  Sovcrui,  al  i 


ulplon.ofAphrodl. 
d  t>iib.uri   in  tb« 

s  Codci  of  (be  lOIh 
Ixtli  delia  rilluni," 

7frTS.205.'eS5,£Stl, 

FlnnK,  or  Floien. 

'ojnrJif-.  naiiiliir.or 
9.sa«,  M6. 
S.  439.  441. 

)l. 

outlet  «r  bk*  of  Bracdani^ 


ATlena,  Volician  cll]r  of.  now  Montu 
'  AitlUi'tludioialRume,  »1,G^ 


llrchivH,  of  Aiem.  SIS. ;  Bologa*.  I^- 
cuKia,  liW.  [  nawiHu.  u.i,  W. ;  of  lb 

■LuTiiiioii  at  iioui^  iia. ;  or  HL  PC 

cnaiMiaj  Vlletbo.VJ' 


'  An  Alluna.iiel.i  J 


Arco  Jl  MeMirello.  ill  Uolgfiu,  T'i, 

dl  Pinu,  M  Veil,  Mil. 

Ard«,  Uh>  A^ve  ca|il'*>  o'^n'iHi  W. 
-  '■-     iptMMt,  iHlnleT,  ot  Uw  Flamill-^ 
'      ■    ■  am,  Ux.  d,  WHJ.  BIS. 


AidruUaUbrMlHiT  of  Haiini 
llw  Mtitaiirua,  IW.  1%  I:) 
AiiaakiHiia,  tllUao  at,  175. 


atllonliMi>^eM.iKiinil,s]^.  ,-„,_...  . 

KMnt,  111.     HU  Fonim  u ^cn>e.  KO.  .  CinbiBa  StniMnn,  In  tfac  An  CUl  « 
^MuluIbeBHorie.ta.    mmalur.  R<>iite,WIribiilnlli>S(.  Lukc.4l& 
W.  B«i  rdier  oTliU  Ar<AI>«iiii,  EB.  Hti  B-^mtucri.Meltim .l<ipl<,  <i.;-ptinitr,»tU 
• "*       ColUBibuiiim  of  hii  nMun  KAMI,  IT'h  Mniury.  Fit 

\r  ot  li<t  re-        ■irhiiM^  11.  iwr?— tuu.  13a  wl^iS 


«iiIiiiiuiB,rn™o.im.M 


il  uicaphifin  dT.  |      Aimun  II.  of  T>n>n,  her  I  mill,  H; 


Amnl,  o!  Jacom  Faule.  pilalrr,  af  ihc  Bo.  ii  < 

locwf  fThool,  (I.  isrn,  31,  w  S£  gi  «  : 

°™.i»-        '  *  '    I  — !'■ 

[))Ut  SUn^r,  Oit  rmi  dbrovnor  of     ,   ^ 

niHU    AnllquitlH    H   THrf|UinII  ;    hla  VIII 

iCiipliab  ol  Uli;  bod;  oT  an  Elrulnn  117 

UTV^'ifenDT.  liLidSicAvrry  f>r  tliB  Doric  r^.  i 

:h  of  (nc  Tibululum  it  Roin'^  SIT.  "    ~ 


.'r»s 


INDEX. 


629 


JBarbiom\  Nfccotd,  architect  of  Cittii  di  Cat. 
telle,  17th  century,  150.  151. 151 

Barbojo,  or  Uarbulejo,  Bernardino,  precep- 
tor of  Ariosto,  hU  tomb,  18. 

Barcaccia  fountain,  at  Rome,  378. 

Barclay,  Joho,  author  of  the  **Argeni<,*'  bit 
tomb,  434. 

Bardella,  village  of  (Mandela),  55a 

Baretta,  Agostmo  and  Kiccold^  Bolognesc  ar- 
chitects, 17th  century,  49.  54. 

Sari,  Niccold  di.    See  Area,  t 

Barigionit  fUippo,  Roman  iculptor,  18th 
century,  390. 

Barile,  Giovanni,  Florentine  sculptor,  fl. 
1518,  453. 

BarocciOt  AntbrogiOt  sculptor  of  Urbino^  15th 
century,  145. 

— — ,  Federico  (Fiori),  painter  of  the 
Roman  school,  b.  at  Urbino,  15S8,  d.  1612, 
40.  (his  last  work),  53. 66.  97. 140.  145, 146. 
148.  169.  245.  Deposition  from  the  Cross, 
his  master.piece,  %;^.  S61,  262.  427.  43^. 
458.  «)1.  502.  507.516. 

Baronini,  Bartolommeo,  his  bust,  488. 

BaroDius,  cardinal,  induced  by  S.  Flllppo 
Neri  to  write  his  Annals,  432, ;  composet 
them  in  Villa  Aldobrandini,  Frascati,  557. 
His  inedited  MSS.,  432.  Autograph  copy 
of  his  Annals,  484.  Restores  chapel  of  St. 
Gregory  the  Great,  422.  Restores  SS. 
Nereo  cd  Achillco  \  his  prayer  for  its  pre- 
aervation,  433.    His  tomb,  43i. 

Bartoli,  Danicle,  on  the  measurement  of  the 
Antonine  Column.  345. ;  on  the  discovery 
of  the  Veims  de'  Medici,  370.  His  bust  in 
the  Capitol,  488. 

Bartolini  qf  Siena,  sculptor  in  wood,  15th 
century,  209. 

^—  <^  Siena,  painter,  pupil  of  Vaoni, 
212. 

Bartok)  and  Baldo,  the  jurists,  their  portraits 
by  Raphael,  509. 

Bartoio,  Taddeo,  painter,  of  the  Sienese, 
school,  fl.  1414,  SUO.  206,  207.  2ia  254.  S60. 

— — ,  DomenicOy  nephew  of  Taddeo,  pain- 
ter, fl.  1463,  215. 

Bartolommeo,  S.,  churches oi^  at  Rome,41&  ; 
di  Porta  ilavegnata,  Bologna,  49. ;  di  Reno, 
Bologna,  50. 

BarMonuneo,  Fra  (Baccio  del  la  Porta),  pain- 
ter, of  the  Florentine  school,  fl.  1469— 
1517,  207.  212,  491.  507,  506.  514.  516.  His 
bust,  488. 

*— ,  Fra^  of  Perugia,  artist  in  pointed 
glass,  15th>  century,  255. 

BMiliciM,  ancient ;  —  Constantlne,  319.  323. ; 
EmilU,  318. ;  Fulvia,  318. ;  Julia,  Si& : 
Ulpia,  320. 

.. — >,  Christian,  formed  on  the  models  of  clas. 
aical  times,  xxiii. ;  their  characteristics, 
381.  Sta.  Croce,  in  Oerusalemme,  Rome, 
405.  Cathedral  of  Ravenna,  87.  St.  John 
Lateran,  Home,  399.  ^S.  Lorenso,  Rome, 
407.  S.  Maria  Maggiore,  Rome,  403.  & 
Paolo  fuori  le  Mure,  Rome,  4oa  St.  Pe. 
ter's,  Rome,  381.  S.  Pietro,  Perugia,  257. 
S.  Sebastiano,  Rome,  408.  2Sw  Vitale,  Ra. 
venna,  88. 

Basilio,  8.,  monastery  of,  at  Grotta  Ferrata, 
fortittcd  by  Julius  II.,  560. 

Bassanelu),  town  of  (Castellum  Ameri- 
num),  2*J8. 

Bastana  {Franceaeo  da  Ponte),  of  Vicensa, 
painter,  of  tbo  Venetian  school,  d.  1530, 
421491. 


Batsano,  Jacopo  (daPonte),  son  of  Francesco, 
painter  of  the  Venetian  school,  b.  1610, 
d.  1592, 15a  257.  501.  503.  .507.  S09L  516. 

Bassi,  Laura,  professor  of  Mathematics  and 
Natural  Philoiiophy  at  Bologna,  37.  Her 
monument,  38. 

BasiaruoiOt  Giuseppe  MaxxuoH^  painter,  of 
the  Fcrrarene  school,  called  the  I'itian 
of  Fcrrara,  d.  1589,  12,  13.  16.  18.  His 
tomb,  17. 

Bastia,  village  of,  £64. 

Bastianino,  Bagtiano  I'S/rpo/,  nainter,  of  the 
Ferrarese  school,  pupil  of  M.  Angelo, 
b.  1532,  d.  1602,  13.  15.  17,  18,  19.  Hia 
tomb,  17. 

Baths,  ancient,  of  Agrippa,  Rome,  350.  ;'Au- 
relian,  at  Vicarello,  592. ;  Caracalla,  Rome, 
350. ;  Constantine,  Rome,  352.  ;  Diocle- 
tian, Rome,  352. ;  Domitian,  Albano,  570.  $ 
Llvia,  Rome,  32d  ;  Marius,  Bologna.  71. ; 
Paulus  .flmilius,  Rome,  353. ;  Nero,  Rome, 
322.}  Nero  and  Alex.  Severus,  Rome, 
35a;  Roman,  at  Volterra,  196.;  Titus, 
Rome,  353. 

— — ^  Modem,  Le  Caldane.  181. ;  S.  Cristo- 
foro,  106. ;  S.  Fihppo  (used  for  making 
casU),  218. ;  Porretta  (sulphur),  73. ;  di 
Regina  (sulphur),  544.;  Roselle,  189.; 
Vicarello,  59^. 

Batignanok  village  of,  182. 

Battles,  ancient— of  the  Lake  Regillus,  575. ; 
Sentinum,  141. ;  ITelamon,  529. ;  Thrasi. 
mene,  246. 247. ;  I^ke  Vadlmon,  228. 

,  mediaeval  and  modem  —  Anghiari,  159i ; 

.  Borghetto,  280. ;  Casalecchio,  73,  74.  ; 
Castel  Bolognese,  104. ;  S.  Fabbriano,  142. ; 
Forlimpopoli,  109. ;  Fossalta,  28,  29. ; 
Fratta,  KM. ;  Gera  d*  Adda,  112. ;  (Sualdo 
Tadino,  141. ;  Molinella,  142.  ;  Monte 
Aperto.206. ;  Ravenna,  102. ;  Rimini,  14S.; 
Soriano,  143. ;  Tolentino,  135. ;  Tusculum 
(the  Cannae  of  the  middle  ages),  558. ; 
Viterbo,231. 

Baitonif  Pompeo,  painter,  of  the  Florentine 
school,  hk  at  Lucca,  1708,  d.  1787,  425. 514. 

Bayard,  the  Chevalier,  his  remarks  on  the 
battle  of  Ravenna,  102. 

Betxttfitmi,  Domenico,  painter,  of  the  [Sie- 
ncte  school,  b.  1484,  d.  ;1549,  207.  Pave, 
nent  of  cathedral,  Siena,  206.  Cartoons 
for  them,  207.  Other  works,  209,  210.  212. 
213.  214. 

Beccaria,  the  chemist,  his  bust,  48& 

Becket,  Thomas  k,  **  S.  Tommaso  dl  Can* 
tuaria,"  his  church  at  Rome  now  dese- 
crated, 440.  His  relics,  405.  4«1.  His  fes* 
Uval,  411. 

Beckford,  on  Bologna,  74 ;  on  Radicofanf, 
219. ;  on  the  entrance  to  Rome,  286. 

Bede,  the  Venerable,  on  the  Anglo-Saxon 
prophecy  on  the  Coliseum,  339. 

Bedetfis,  fluv.,  now  the  Ronco,  107. 

Bedi,  Oiacomo,  painter,  of  the  Umbrian 
school,  14th  century,  161. 

Relcaro,  castle  of,  near  Siena,  216. 

BelforU*,  village  of,  137. 

Belisarius,  general  of  Justinian,  his  siege 
and  capture  of  Ravenna,  85. ;  recalled  and 
succeeded  by  Narses,  85. ;  nearly  loses  hia 
lite  at  the  siege  of  Osimo,  127.  His 
camp  on  the  Pincian,  301.  Repairs  the 
walls  of  Rome,  SOU  308.  The  scene  of  hia 
degradation,  301.  Scene  of  his  triumphal 
entrance  into  Rome,  SOS.  His  destruction 
of  the  autiquitieit  313.    Su^^^oied  v<^  ^^.'t^ 


iniiM  S.  M«'M  In  TntI, « 


Salanj,  yo.     Thr  grml 


K).  an.    ThePnurlM.u..  , 
he  Capitol  of  Honw,  oplurcd 


..  lOHilw  u  rsua.  on  the  ticum  of 
WUwiicorUrbliiB.IIT.;  on  ths  DushHi 
'IIhIkiu  M  UiMm.  1*3.  I1l>  Inwnp- 
DB  on  the  «iH>Hicfl  ilnfLI  or  RHnhiri,  O^ 

i>i(tHniiiid)iss..aii.  m»taiAi,m. 

-*"'  '-  HKmlr/mlciaito,  iculptDr,    IGlh 
-»  ctiurtbct  or.  BolDgnji,  50.  i 


lnTnit«vcn,43l-    U«lilnr,(i7. 

,  fnge.  hU  tuppmcd  Uoib,  Kil 
_  XI.,  MM,  polKinal  M  Penigtii,  hit 

■   IhiK)  l»  biwnml  dl  n«,  ass. 

XlV.'fLiualMrtlnl).  Anndi  Hbrni?  of 

Balotnu.  M. ;  buildi  pun  dT  (aChi?d»1  of 
Ailsgna,  •! ;  fnteaU  tlw  bwty  or  3  I^ 


Cipllol,  191.  '  HM  buM  by  fialDgnlnl 

.Sniglnl,  Manra.inlnter,  of  <li  eRdmui  icl 
b-lsM.  d.  i;at,  ISA.  ISO.  sat.  us,  tag. 


-     iW,  TVtmo,  modem 'Roiuin 
riylii)  riRiIty,  of  Bi 


finilt)',  of  BDli>jm»,  mpiime*  to 
ed  from  King  Enikuih'il.i  Ota- 


mmenl  of  BoUieiu 
rJuUiuiL,«9   Tb( 


of  BoloeiUi  end  t 


BcMiTninii.  Oionnnl.  deltiitnl  br  ITiiDl  Oc- 

leauo  Hi  CnfA^rtCliia,  7,5.  ;    mHHVHd  In 
Anj,^«o*iSBW«iio,7*,     HtaporBaKlT 


uiceKi,  nuTctm  her  hnMAd  fl^ 
It.  pj^tn,moiem  FloraiilDfrptinlv. 


1    |>al..n 


Jjrrffnng.  Slfftmo  >fs,  iculptDi  In  vsod,  Uttl 

,  Chhm  iIo,  urthiiMt,  I7ih  otnlury,  W. . 

JJn^dlAJa,  PVfmlih  TwLnHr,  ^ 
Bn^m^i.^Klrra,  asmnn  «ul|<(Dr,  Wbttt- 

"""       oTAa 


o'f  Froncim 


.    irnwi 


,  churehK  of,  at  Perogia,  IH. ;  it  San 

Bstnl,  the'oitiriil,  bli  portrait  Br  4MI« 

Rontno.  S3S, 
StrniitiiOiiimiiiiJ  Ijtrei'to,  wBlptor.Vi-lM, 

d.  i^  ss.  wa.  9K  M7.  aott  £».  jntfl> 

3!T.S7H     TiiE  ColaiiD.de*  aFStniWI 

as.  3Sk'  PwraiHit  ar  St.  rtot'tt  Hi' 

nonmt"oFBrti«u'  ^^  I  r. ,  Ma'  ^tom ' ' 

wmkt  391.  ftu,  <!1,  412.  4^15.    Hli 

ptrct,  lis:  StSlUe  of  a.  'rcrc4a.  43S 
lUgi.,  443.  Olher  «(irk»,  4^.  4W 
4»C  «S.  ten.  BOS.  SOT.    £08.  ilS,  31* 


I     I,  ^Iftra.  Romn  KUlT>tor.  ITtli  eenlHiTt^ 

40S.  413.  401.  WO. 
BwWi,  Cjodlind  d^  hit  Lonib.  4*4. 

Benmiat,  fZ/aeia,  of  Ancnns,  pfinttf,  1B(1|< 


I.  KtiX  of,  imner  of  ttia  Hal  dT 
Bnhilui,  407.  Hi<  dlMnvwyW 
mills  of    DliUD,  «■  tlw  A1«MB)^ 

Juc,  Ilohum.  41. 

Hener,  hli  ponioit  si  Hldu.  Ul  H. 


hi  l^llJl«,  Bolf^nii.  G4 
&ft^  4b^  Xti^i^  Roi 


INDEX. 


631 


JSianamf,  Carh,  painter,  sculptor,  and  ar- 
chitect, of  Bologna,  nth  century,  56. . 

Bihiana.  S.,  church  of,  at  Rome,  416. 

BiBiENA,  town  of,  336. 

Bibiena,  Giovanni  Maria  Galli,  painter,  of 
the  Bolognece  school,  pupil  of  Albani,  b. 
1625,  d.  1665,  50.  62.  n. 

■■  »  FtTtttnando  Galli,  son  of  Otomnni, 
architect  of  Bologna,  celebrated  for  hit 
theatrical  machinery  and  scenes,  b.  1657, 
d.  1743,  &^.  69.  72.  190.  SIS. 

— — ,   Antonio  GaOi,    ton   of  Ferdinando, 
painter  and  architect  of  Bologna,  b.  1700, 
.d.l774,  62. 

Bibiena,  cardinal,  bis  **  Calandria,"  repre- 
sented at  Urbino,  the  first  Italian  comedy, 
147.  Raphael  bequeathes  his  palace  to 
bim,  507. 

Bibles,  M&  of  the  Gth  century,  in  capital 
letters,  the  oldest  version  of  theSeptuagint, 
and  firvt  Greek  verition  of  New  Testa- 
ment, 480.    MS.,  Hebrew,  13th  century, 
on   parchment,  104.       MSi,  Hebrew,  in 
folio,  captured  by  Dulce  of  Urbino,  at  Vol. 
terra,  484.    MS.,  I^in,  of  &  Paola,  8th 
.  century,  superbly  illuminated,  said  to  have 
.  been  a  present  from  Charlemagnie,  431. 
MS.,  Ltttin,    8th  century,   attributed  to 
Alcuinus,  432.    MS.,  with  illuminations, 
Sa    Printed,  Greek  (1518),  484.      Prin- 
.  oeps   edition,    on    kid,  with    miniatures 
( Venice,  Janson,  1J78),  97.    Arabic  ( Rome, 
1671),  484.    Stamped,  on  parchment,  with 

*  wooden  characters,  4S8.  Hebrew  (1488), 
first  complete  edition  of  Soncino,  501. 

Bibulus,  tomb  of,  at  Rome,  357. 

JBicci,  Lorenzo  di,  painter  of  the  Florentine 
.school,  fl.  1 4A0, 24a 

Bicda,  and  S.  Giovanni  di  Bieda  (Blera), 
S29,230. 

JBienahni,  living  sculptor,  at  Rome,  582L 

Bier,  the  celebrated  Etruscan  bronse,  found 
at  Orvetrl,  m>w  in  the  Vatican,  477. 
Another  in  the  Bluseo  Campana,  521. 

Biga,  the  marble  biga  of  the  Vatican,  474. 
Another  of  bronse,  477. 

Bigarit  yitiorio,  painter,  architect,  and 
sculptor,  of  Bologna,  b.  1692,  d.  1776, 
42. 

•^— ,  Angela,  son  of  Vlttorio,  painter,  of 
the  RoTognese  »chuoI,  18th  century,  62. 

JffArio,  Stinni  di  Baceio,  Florentine  sculptor, 
17th  century,  4ar),  427.  515. 

Bitlio&cki.  modem  Roman  seulptor,  488. 

Bilingual  iniicriptions:~Uml>rian  and  Latin, 
475.;  Kugubian  Tkbles  (trUinguai),  Um- 
brian,  Latin,  and  Ktruscan,  162. 

BindelU,  IjtpoUto,  Veronese  sculptor,  15th 
century,  15. 

Biondo  Flavio,  the  historian,  his  birth.plaoe, 
108. 

Bisentina,  island  of,  and  its  church,  222. 

Bishoprics  of  Ravenna  and  Ostia,  the  most 
ancient  in  the  Christian  world,  84.  505. 
Bishops  of  Ostia  having  the  privilege  of 
coosefrating  the  iiopes,  505. 

Blandu»iie  Fons,  5.'V3. 

Bobbio,  Benedictine  library  of,  chiefly  Pa- 
limpsests, transferred  to  the  Vatican, 
48U. 

Boccad*Albegna,ia5. 

.— -  Trabara,  summit  of  an  Apcnnine  pass, 
IW. 

delU  Veriti^  at  Rome,  325.  426. 

Boccaccio,  Makes  the  PlueU  of  RAvenaa  the 


scene  of  the  Xastagio  d^i  Onesti,  lOS. 
His  tomb  and  monument,  103.  His  house 
and  portrait,  194.  .Scene  of  his  Ktoryof 
Tofano  and  Monna  Ghita,  241. 

Bocchi,  Achille,  founder  of  the  Bocchi 
Academy,  and  of  a  celebrated  printing 
press  at  Bologna,  65.  His  palace,  now 
the  Piclla,  65. 

Bodoni,  the  printer,  bia  bust  in  the  Capitol, 
488. 

Bogtiani,  modern  sculptor,  at  Rome,  4^8. 

B(Mgi,  Andrea,  Roman  sculptor,  17th  cen- 
tury, 387. 

BoLOONA,  city  of  (Felsina),  27.  69.  Envi- 
rons, 70—74. 

— ~  to  Ancona,  103. ;  to  Ferrara,  05. ;  to 
Florence,  75. ;  to  Modena,27 ;  to  Ravenna, 
82. 

Bologna,  Vitale  da,  painter,  of  the  Bolognesc 
school,  fl.  1345,  31,  32.  70,  71. 

— -,  Lorenzo  d^,  Jpainter,  of  the  Bolog- 
nese  school,  fl.  1J68,  70. 

— — ,  ChriUifaro  da,  painter,  of  the  Bolog. 
nese  school,  fl.  1360,  /O. 

,  Simone  da,    called  "dai  Crociiissi," - 

painter,  of  the  Bolognesc  school,  fl.  1377, 
32.  41,  42.  52.  36.  70.  71. 

— -^  Mato  da.  painter,  of  the  Bolognese  - 
school,  fl.  140^,  31. 

—— ,  Oiovanni  di  (John  of  Bologna), 
Flemish  sculptor,  b.  LOSS,  d.  liiOS.  His 
Neptune,  at  Bologna,  61.  His  S.  Matthew, 
at  Orvieto,  167.  His  statue  of  Christ,  at 
Colle,  191v  SUtue  of  Ferdinand  dc'  Me- 
dici, at  Arezzo,  839. 

Bolognese,  Franco,  painter,  called  the  Giotto 
of  the  Bolognese  school,  fl.  1313,  31. 

,'//  (Oia  Francesco  Grimaldi),  Bo- 
lognese painter,  fl.  1678,  424.  431. 

Bolognetti  (amim  their  baronial  castlo,  55L 

Bolognini,  Gio.  Battista  the  elder,  pupil  of 
Ouido,  painter,  of  the  Bolognese  school, 
b.  1612,  d.  1689, 53. 

— ,   Gio.  Battista^  the  younger,    son   of 
the  preceding,  pamter  and  sculptor,  17th  ■ 
century,  62. 

BouBNA.  town  of  (Volsinii),  220,  2-21. 

.  lake    of  (Lacus  Tarquinianu:*),    891. 

Islands  of  Disentina  and  Martana,  222L 

to  Orvieto,  222. 

Bomarso,  village  of,  celebrated  for  its  Etrus- 
can tomlM,  223. 

Bon.iparte,  Marquis  de,  on  the  Constable  de 
Bourbon's  pillage  of  Rome,  358. 

BoMUKNo,  town  of,  10. 

Bonfigli,  Benedetto^  of  Perugia,  painter,  of 
the  Umlirian  school,  fl.  1420—1496,  i253. 
255,  256,  257.  259.  262. 

Booiface  IV.,  pope,  consecrates  the  Pan- 
theon, 331.     . 

— »  VIIL,  pope  (Gaetani),  his  bronze 
statue  by  Manno,  at  Bologna,  39.  His 
portrait  by  Giuttn,  401.  Converts  the  tomb 
of  Cacilia  Metella  into  a  fortress,  3^ 
Supposed  to  have  built  the  Torre  deUe 
Milizitf.  .'177.  Enlarges  university  of  Rome, 
523.  Seizes  town  of  Culonna,  .'i76.  Ex- 
communicates the  (krfoima  family,  and 
razes  Palestrina  to  the  ground,  577.  Hit 
bull  relating  to  the  Jubilee  of  St.  Peter's, 
385.  Princeps  edition  of  his  "  Decretals," 
on  vellum,  97.    His  tomb,  392. 

IX.,  jxqte,     restores    Castlo    of  St. 

Angelo,  3b  I .  Builds  Palace  of  the  Senator 
on  the  CapUoi*  48& 

XT.  \ 


ilMMnKuliilcT.ar  lheV«inU«n«h™i,il.      Botltrl.  I 
fci  II.    CiM^a,  Balnwr.  or  iIm  FsmnH      UouicelU,  KinMny  hiiMci   al 


jumpM^Uoet  0^  lUphBel 


jurn  pA^Uon  I 

441.1  lUall  lh«  Uprtirie*  of  ItiiifcM^WI. 

Hi!  inaiMr.  tf&   Uii  Hrord,  ^ 


innliilBia.      B<u  lim,«rth(  C_ _„— . 

i   lA.  H  Pn-  Braca.Piefra.Baiaia  Bulplin 

..  shid  HhId,  S7«.iau.3;uLtM.  Hiibua.... 

iiiif  rmwIpiM),  aiS.     Their  huUI  culle  of.  ^              *"  ' 

Hbrta  HSKHon,  W*.  Briccki  Fatutawcia  d*  Hontme,  rinloT 

■W|i>),T2iaMibvU(»«fB.  Sftni.eguiuiidsaCtheFlDreniiiH'oiBr, 

r::^B  .  .d__k  -<«  «;„».  Crt-  hit  itcBirY  »  Fnux,  Itio. ;  bnitMi  mi 

.-.  Jrc(<>>H>,  UfcoP*mfH>»0.   Hi.wprUeiUie»Wli 

I.  MhIi  detln  VKIntli,  of  Temt,  S7T.  Occupln  T<>dII,  MT-t  Ov- 

j^na  BarghHT.  oai^         '  PrrLigii,  «5fi'. 

"ultrt  •iilw  of  NipelHM.  .— ,  Nuri  dl.  U  Pangu,  IM. 

n>t  fall  lUtuo  of  Vcoiu,  Brafiumir,  Lattmi,  etlAntea  ■rehllsit,b. 


i^r.onlhelidiT- 


"  HmjhMUcelo,  iiiu»s  of,  SM. 

Bsnhctlo.  taw«r  oT,  mt  Thndmaic,  HS, 

,  poit  MUioh  itHl  rnrtrHa,  !3sr>. 

BarE>K,  CHiir,  hU  blnhpliKn  SU.  <  tnigga 

m.  'n^MMt  thrcsof«lln»  ciiieb  « 
EinfaiulUi.  IRQ.  Hl>  nacher;  la  the  Duke 
or  Vibinii,  IVI.     Bnieaet  Itae  Onini  n 

^"AopiniraeBlo,  u  th>  VUlcnn.WS. 
BoTRD,  Htmc.  11  Kume,  faraunlj  (he  CiM 

Bnrco,  homlM  and  cavern  af,  at  Su  Uhido, 


liHiDui  ana  tit  Gauli  deTcalcd  al  AcdatJ 
IrenunVM  78.B!. 

Irrsda,  Pnaperij  Sctmeai  da,  KVlpiatt  <!' 
hridan-Mi.  AaOra  dd.  paluUr,  of  IheSl. 
cneu  icbwl,  iwpll  of  ScKlonu.  a.  isau,  m: 
trcagkil  or  Bmgkrt,  Pdtr,  FlsnUh  puiBta-, 

imii.ttr.of  ihc  RoiBM  Khool,  h.'lffll.  d!  '  Bridgo.   eneleul i  —  ^Awion,  Blen^^M^ 

i«7s, ««.  sua  flit,  wa  I     Ml.  J  i>otikntaii»Biiaiji.8is.i  PwioB*. 

BwgM*™^,  /juwmj,  iMlnter,  of  Ihc  Bo-  I      lini.  17S.|— JIbohu,  Ponte  UraKi,Ne*r 

tegncte Khool.  17th  emury,  («).  Otillaiw,  I41t ;  Fh3ine(B.arKeruh)Wi1ic 

Bomnneo.  Cird.  Sui  CiuK^  hl>  biul  with  NMmt  (B.  of  Ammtm),  178.  i  OrW  HMt- 

lUtcT  hHd,  «  i  otdcn  lite  Fotitaiu  del  Slil.;  P.  delU  Rehdu  near  OUia,  iS;!- 


Gtamll,  al  Bi^win,  S8.  i 

Meat  Uaii»,4ST.  HUil.  , ^ , 

I.UCI   Lenthl'B    Marriaga  of  Cam,  ya 

X9S.  1  en  Ihetwtace  of  Caiintula,  93£.  HiJ 


Rhnin)  {B.  of  Aiigi»lu> 


BligAta   fipendvnc 


*W.4I1I.  tan.  499.  SIK,  409.  Sit  SIS.  SS.  ^"3. Prntof .Antwerp, pBiiiter, nflheDuLoh 

ms.  tm.  <     ichdoi.  b.  JS54,  d.  vss,  i&i.  SOS.  MS.  us. 

Bi>unv  ofthe  CallRuoi,  3^1.  I      SIS,  SIS  SM. 

li'jlnntc  rtarricni :— Bologni.  39. ;  Perugia,  British  Iromt,  under  Gen.  Nugeiil,  aeeuiiT 

nil.:  namc.5-It.                                 _  Bulogna  In  1014.  £9.    Britlih  ciuiiBndlb. 


INDSX. 


633 


•   pani  tower  and  fortificctiona  of  P.  d*  Aiuow 

^tS,  604. 
Brfsxi  or  Brizio,  FraneetrOt  painter,  of  the 

Bolognese  school,  tx  1574,  d.  1693,  46.  47. 

52.  59.  6*.  65. 
■  ■  ■■»  Filippo^  son  of  the  preceding,  painter 

of  tlie  iiolognese  school,  b.  160:},  d.  1675, 

45. 
Bronics,  Hall  of,  at  the  Capitol,  49& 
Bronzes,  modem  maimfacturcnrs  and  dealers, 

at  Home,  i»2. 
BronxinOf  Aleutmdro  Mori,  painter,  of  the 

Florentine  school,  b.  1535,  d.  16U7, 5031 
Bruoa  river,  18^ 
Brunacct\  Fra  di  Barone,  artist  in  painted 

glass.  Kith  century,  25.'). 
BruneUt-schi,    Fiiippo,  Florentine   sculptor, 

architect,  ami  |>aiiiter,  A.  1474 — 1563,  bis 

revival  of  classical  architecture,  xxv.    His 

bust,  478. 
Bruno,  Giordano,  official  reports  of  his  trial 

in  the  Inquisition,  512. 
Brunswick,  Duke  of,  who  fell  at  Waterloo, 

his  monument  at  Pcsaro,  117. 
Buchede'  Saracini,  labyrinth  near  Volterra, 

801. 
Bufalini  Palace,  at  S.  Giustino,  14&  ;  at  Cittd 

dl  Castello,  155,  \!i3. 
Bt^ffhlmaeoo,      Buonamieo     di    Cristqfano, 

{tainter,  of  the  Florentine  school,  fl.  13M), 
lis  reputed  works  at  Bdogua,  45.  His 
works  at  Assisi,  267. 

Bulicamp,  warm  sulphuroiis  lake  near  Vi- 
terbo,  celebrated  by  Dante,  824. 

Bulls  and  Driers  :  —  of  Eugenius  IV.  (Union 
of  Greek  and  I<atin  Churches^,  63. ;  Ju> 
lius  II.  vprivilcgcs  of  the  Notaries  of  Bo- 
logna, 63. ;  Pascal  1 1,  (privileges  of  Arch- 
bishops of  Ravenna),  (J6. ;  Itoniface  VUI. 
(Jubilee  of  St.  Peter's),  365.;  Leo  XII. 
(Education),  !ii3. 

Bunsen,  Chev.,  on  the  Roman  Forum,  SI 6. 
319. ;  Temple  of  Minerva  Chalcidica,  3i9. ; 
T.  of  Nerv.-!,  3K). ;  <I-:kles  Pcnatiuro,  333.; 
T.  of  Saturn,  33i. ;  T.  of  Vespasian,  336. 

BuonapaiTc,  Hoatu  Ghisilieri,  his  relics  at 
Bologna,  5(>. 

— ,  Luricn,  Ist  Prince  of  Canino,  palace 
at  Rome,  503.  His  iron  works  at  'J*ivoli, 
549.  Researches  at  Veii,  588.  {  at  Tar- 
quinii,  611. ;  at  Vulci,  616, 617.  His  cha- 
teau and  museum  at  MusigiMno,  617. 

■■—.Charles  Lucien,  his  aoological museum, 
BOi.     His  late  villa  at  Frascati,  5:'>8. 

Btumiiu^tna,  Duociu  <//,  ftninter,  oftheSi- 
eoere  school,  fl.  1282,  1-06^  2U7,  2U8,  209, 
21U. 

Buonportn,  post-station.  10. 

Buomtalenii^  Itfmardot  Florentine  architect, 
b.  1536,  d.  I(i«i8,  77. 

BtOHVfnturat  St-fina  di,  painter,  of  the  Sle- 
ncsc  school,  14th  century,  2U7. 

BuonrichM,  Atubrosio,  >Iilauese  sculptor, 
17th  century,  404.  4I.-X  427. 

Burgess,  Rev.  U ,  on  the  Antiquities  of 
Rome,  316.  327.  .'>2<).  3.'J0. 33iii.  353. 

Burnet,  Hii>ho]i.  on  .S.  Micliele  in  Uosco,  71. 

Uurtnn,  Rev.  Dr.,  on  the  Roman  Forum, 


Slrt. 


Bnto,  Ippttlifo,  Mulptor  of   Orvieto,17lh 

centurv,  167.  404. 4.7. 
Bvres,  >ir.,  KuKH^h  {laintcr,  A r it  explorer  of 

Tan|uinil,6ll.  613. 
Byron,  Lord,  his  liouse  at  Ravenna,  95,  06. ; 

on  the  Tomb  of  ArioMo,  17.  {  Ttfso's  Pri- 


son, 23. ;  Card.  Mesxofimti,  4a ;  Tomb  of 
Dante,  94,  93. ;  Pincta  of  Ravenna,  102. ; 
death  of  Gaston  de  Foix,  95.;  I'omb  of 
Roccaccio,  193. ;  Lake  of  Tbrasimene,  S49.; 
Temple  of  Clitumnus,  271. ;  Falls  of  Temi, 
277. ;  Soracte,  283. ;  Rome,  285. ;  Roman 
Forum.  316. ;  Palace  of  the  Csesars,  .331. ; 
the  Carita  Romana,  327. ;  Pantheon,  331.  x 
Coliseum,  339-^1. ;  Col.  of  Phocas  345.  i 
Tomb  of  C.  Meiella,  358. ;  Tomb  of  Ha- 
drian,  360. ;  Tarpeian  Rock,  367. ;  Foun« 
tain  of  Egeria,  372.  ;  RIenzi,  37d ;  St 
Peter's,  385. ;  the  Laocoon,  470. ;  Apollo 
Belvedere,  471  • ;  Bronte  Wolf  of  the  Ca- 
pitol, 489. ;  Dying  Gladiator,  496. ;  the 
Spada  Pompey,  516. 

Byzantine  period  of  art  and  architecture, 
xxiv. }  churches  at  Ravenna,  88. :  at 
Rome,  406,  407.  4ia  418. 

Mosaics.    See  Mosaics. 


Ck  La,  popal  frontier,  75. 
Cabrera,  the  Spanish  writer  on  the  antiqui- 
ties of  Rome,  442. 
Caceianiga,  Milanese  painter,  18th  century, 

536. 
Caccim,  Gtoranii/,  sculptor,  of  Orvleto,  17th 

century,  167. 
Cacus.  cave  of,  its  supposed  site,  439. 
Cadutedelle  Marmorc  (Falls  of  Temi),  275. 
Ca^cilia  Metclla,  wife  of  Crassus.  her  tunb 

at  Rome,  357. 
Csecina,  bishop  of  Volterra  (1765^,  last  of 

the  ancient  Etruscan  family  of  that  name* 

199. 
Coilian,  one  of  the  seven  hills  of  ancient 

Rome,  308.  J  the  settlement  of  tlie  Albaa 

colonists  after  the  destruction   of  Alba 

Loiiga,  564. 
Csenina,   scene  of  the  Sabine   rape,    now 

Ceano,554. 
Ca>re,  Ktriucan  city  of,  now  Cervctri,  190.  i 

described,  606. 
Csritis  awnis,  now  the  Vaccina,  190. 
Caesar,  Julius,  his  occupation  of  Ravenna 

before  the  nacsage  of  the  Rubicon.   84. 

His  reputed  sugaestntn  at  Rimini,  113. ; 

occu|)Btionof  Ancona,  123.  Rebuilds  Circus 

Maximus.  342.     His  Forum  at  Rome,  321. 

His  villa  at  Nemi,  574.   Remains  of  this 

villa  in  the  Vatican,  long  su|»po«cd  to  have 

belonged  to  an  ancient  ship.  483.   iScene 

of  his  death,  338L     His  colossal  sutue, 

487. 
Ca^ars,  palace  of  the,  at  Rome,  321. 
Cassarea  urbs,  84.  88.  93.  100. 
Cafaggi<»lo,  {tost  station,  76. 
Cafis  of  Rome,  2S9. 
Cauli,  town  of  (Callis),  140. 
Cagliostro,    the    celebrated   impostor,   hit 

exile  at  Rimini,  113. 
Cagmicci,  iSuido,  uainter,  of  the  Bolognese 

school,  pupil  of  Guide,  b.  at  St.  Arcau- 

gek>,  1601.  d.  1661,32.501. 
Ctiiia  river.  176.  249. 
(■aiiu  Cestius,  pyramid  of,  3r9. 
Cajetani.    See  Gaetano. 
Caiabrete,  Cap.  (Mattia  Preti),  |>aintcr,  ot 

the  NeapoliUQ    scliool,  bi  1613,  d.  1699. 

£09.  413. 
Caleagni,    Antonio,   of  Rocaiuiti,   sculptor, 

Ititn  century,    pupil  of  Girubimo   Lora- 

bardo,  128, 129.  131. 
Calcagninl,  Coeiio,  the  astronomer,  16th  ccn« 


Jicot'O  di  Lspo,  n.  ims,  SfiS. 


INDEX.. 


635 


Canutf,  Domenieo,  painter  and  engraver,  of 

the   Bolognese  ichool,   b.    1620,  d.  1684, 

65.68.71,72.73. 
Capalti\  Ca».^  modem  Roman  painter,  4S0i 
Capanacce  Le  (Vicus  Matrini),  231.  284. 
Captmna,  Pwccto,  juainter,  of  the  Florentine 

•chooK  pupil  of  Giotto,  fl.  1334,  267. 
-«— I  Qiacowo  dei,  painter,  of  the  Sienete 

school,  fl.  1500;  215. 
Capannoli,  village  of,  SOI. 
Capella  Sistina,  in  the  Vatican,  443. ;  Fao- 

lina,  fb.  446. ;  dl  8.  Lorenso,  ib.  455. 
Carana,  EtrtMcan  city  of    (San  MarUno), 

Cimitol  at  Rome  :~Vlew  from  the  tower,  306. 

Piaxza,  485.    Palace  of  the  Senator.  486. 

Palace  of  the  Conservator!.  487.     Proto- 

meteca,  487.    Halls  of  the  Conservaturi. 

488— 4iX).    GHllery  of  Pictures,  490.    Mu- 

seura.  4t»l— 4U7. 
Capitoline,  one  of  the  7  hills  of  ancient  Rome, 

308.  Substructions,  317. 
Capod'Argine,  post-station,  85. 
Capo  di  Ferro,  hill  of,  597. 
Gapoootta  (Laureiitum),  600. 
Capponi,  Marquis,  his  library,  now  in  the 

Vatican,  480. 
Cappuccini,  churches  of  the: —at  Bologna, 

73L ;   Cagli.  14a  ;  ,Cesena.  109. ;    Faensa. 

106.;  Fano,  119.;  Ferrara,  18. ;  Fraacati, 

556.;  Gcnsano  (Convent),  573.;   Rimini, 

113.  ;  Rome.  417. ;  Urbino,  146. 
Capra,  Benedetto,  the  Jurist,  his  work  the 

first  printed  at  Perugia,  963. 
Capbanica.  town  of,  near  Viterbo,  on  an 

Etruscan  sitc^  flimoua  for  its  mineral  wa. 

ters,  831. 

•  near  Palestrina,  58a 

Caprarola,  fortified  palace  of,  832. 
Caprcae,  village  of,  birth-place  of  M.  Angdo, 

lea 

Caracalla.  his  public  works  at  Rome :— baths, 
350. ;  Circus,  313. ;  restores  Aaueduct  of 
Aqua  Claudia,  366.  (  restores  Portico  of 
Octavia,  370.    His  tomb,  361. 

Caracci,  Lodov/co,  painter,  of  the  B<riognese 
school,  b.  1555,  d.  1619,  31.  33.  48.  48, 40, 
50. 51.  68,  53,  54,  55.  57, 58.  64,  65, 6a  73. 
118. 854.  87a  491.  506,  M9.  515. 

— .  Annibalf^  cousin  of  Lodovioo,  painter, 
of  the  Bulogncse  school,  b  1560.  .d.  1609, 
SI.  34.  54  5d  58.  His  first  freMX».  64.  66. 
68.  73.  133. 156.  169-  83IK  873.  480.  488  (?). 
43a  490,  491.  508.  50&  509,  510.  515.  618. 
661.  His  criticism  on  the  rival  works  of 
Doraenichino  and  Ouldo,  In  S.  Oregorio, 
488.  His  engravings,  50.  His  tomb^  333. 
HU  bust,  488. 

.— — ,  Agostimo.  brother  of  Anaibale. 
painter,  of  the  Bologneae  school,  b.  1558, 
d.  1601,  19.  31. 3a.  60.  53.  64.  66.  491.  601, 
608. 6U&  605.  516.  His  engraving^  56, 63. 
63. 

— .  AnioHio,  son  of  Agottino^  b.  1683, 
d.  1618. 54. 

_- ^  PaolOt  brother  of  Lodovico,  painter, 
fl.  160O,  5tw  59.  70. 

»— ,  Francesco,  nephew  of  Annlbale  and 
AgosUno.  painter,  b.  ItSS,  d.  1088, 59. 

,  Gobbo   de\  or    Cobbo    da    Cortona, 

painter  of  firuit,  17th  contury,  38. 

Carallk  family,  their  feudal  castle  at  Pa« 
lUmo,5B8. 

Caravaggio,  Polidoro  Caldara  «/a,  painter,  of 
the  KoMii  selMM>l,d.  I5t3»  440. 601. 


CaravaggiOt  Michael  Angela  Amerighl^ 
painter,  of  the  Roman  school,  b.  1569,  d. 
1609,  63.  66.  257.  261.  411.  4<^4.  430.  453, 
454. ;  the  Entombment  of  Christ,  458.  490, 
491.  500.  503.  505.  507,  508,  fm.  514. ;  the 
Cheating  Oamblers,  516.  518.  537.  His 
bust,  488. 

Carbonile,  village  of,  78. 

Cardinals,  college  of,  vii. 

Cardinaie  Arciprete,  palace  of.  Rome,  505. 

Careiae.  now  Galera,  590. 

Coriti.  church  of  I  a,  at  Bologna,  50. 

Caritas Jjioroana,  supposed  scene  of  tlie.  327. 

Carlo,  Sv.  church  of.  Rom^  418. 

Carloman,  son  of  Charles  Martel,  his  con- 
vent  of  S.  Silvestro,  883. 

Carione^  Gkin  Andrea^  painter,  of  the  Ge- 
noese school,  b.  1639,  d.  1697,  152.  255. 

Carmine,  church  of  the,  at  Siena,  210. 

Came,  Sir  Edward,  English  ambassador  to 
Leo  X.,  his  tomb,  422. 

Camevale,  Fra  (Bartoloromeo  Corradini),  of 
Urbino,  the  Domenican,  fl.  1474, 140. 

Carnevali,  Signer,  of  Albano,  his  discovery 
of  the  Hut  urns  of  the  Latin  tribes,  570. 

Carnival  at  Rome,  291. 

Caro,  Annibale,  the  scholar  aiid  poet,  16th 
century,  suggests  the  subjects  of  Zuc- 
cari's  fi-escocs  at  Caprarola,  232.  Hia 
tomb,  423.  His  bust,  488.  The  Duchess  of 
I>evonshirc*s  edition  of  his  .£neid,  601. 

Caroline,  queen  of  England,  her  residence 
near  Pesaro.  1 17. 

CarpacciOf  FittoriOt  or  Vittore,  painter,  of  the 
Venetian  school,  fl.  1520. 16.  Ua 

Carpi,  Girolamo  de\  painter,  of  the  Ferra- 
rese  school,  b.  1501,  d.  1556, 13. 15.  56.  JSa 

Carrocdo.  the  Guclph  standard  of  Florence, 
captured  by  the  Sienese,  at  Monte  Apcrto, 
90a80UL 

Carroceto,  hamlet  of.  604. 

Carsoii.  village  of  (CarmilK),  164. 

Cartonl,  Signer,  his  discovery  of  the  Necro- 
polis of  Ostia,  696. 

Carza  torrent,  76. 

Casa.  Giovanni  della,  archbishop  of  Bene- 
vento.  his  tomb,  4ia  HU  MS.  at  the 
BarberinI  Palace,  60L 

Casale»  village  of.  182. 

Casalecchio,  near  Bologna,  scene  of  the 
battle  between  Bentivoglio  and  Ulan  Gale- 
azzo,  73. ;  and  of  another  between  the 
Sieur  de  Chaumont.  general  of  Louis  XII., 
and  the  array  of  Julius  .II.,  under  the 
Duke  of  Urbino.  74. 

Casanata,  cardinal,  his  tomb.  487. 

Catan'o,  Lazxaro,  Bolognese  sculptor,  16th 
century,  48. 69. 

Cascatelle  at  Tivoll,  548. 

Case  Bruciate,  post-station.  122.  Nuove. 
hamlet  and  ix)st-station,  138.  Del  Piano, 
post-station,  246. 

Casclano,  S..  convent  of,  at  Kami,  879. ;  ca* 
thedral  of,  Rimini.  104. 

Casino  (buiklings):— del  PapaGiulio  and 
della  Rcvereiida  Camera  (Pal.  Giulio),  at 
Rome,  887. ;  del  Papa,  in  tlie  Vatican  Gar* 
dens.  485. 

Casino  (clubs)  :  —  Bologna,  69. ;  Peruga, 
863. ;  English,  at  Rome,  290. ;  do*  Mobiiiat 
Siena,  813. 

Casolant,  Alestandro,  painter,  of  the  Sienese 
school,  b.  15518,  d.  160^  SIO,  811.  218. 

Ctuonit  AntotUot  Roman  architect.  18th 
century,  417- 

1.x  ^ 


ini,  tttdtme.  iMr  binhplaer.  111.  ■     j 


FraBincrdo,  painter.  U  Vf«Iiw, 
C^tcniu,  i-,  ctmrrh  of,  hi  A  hUI,  869. 


CaUolk*.  L».  Tk.__  _  . ,.._ 
"-■--'lui,  lift  TlUauTlvolt,  SIS. 

'crl,  IjTing  poniait  paiuicr,  al  Yiau, 

'mallM,  Pirira,  uhi»r  and  mnnidic  wOl 
or  tiiolto.  b  l^SU,  d.  l^rH,    sat-  SbLVI- 

^aTallo,  the  poet,  bit  birthplacOp  ISS. 
Mnilo,  MouU  ((JulrliialJ,  at  Koac,   SR 

imUlmea.  ^Hloafa,  of  Sennoneu.  palnlK 
sr  thcKoaBiKliiiel.ti.  lT3e.d.l^  UET. 


•candi,  laa. 

,  bli  lurliait,  by  EUgAael, 

C^ikllmw.  Caum  BaWainre,  author  of  Ihe 
■* CurtwUno,"  bli  nffeKnu  at  Ih"  *---'- 

of  RaYHin..  ME    6!tdinte(Ehe _. 

Pnuq,  I  le.   On  the  EDUR  of  Urbbis,  IM, 
14^    RepKMno  Duke  OuM-  Utnldo  I.  In 

U»  Gari«,  m.  Ult  poem  on  the  Artndne 

of  IhB  Vatican,  179.    Hlti 

'   lUi  or  Kanliael.  SX. 

CauifrhDoe  delia  FhciJ;<,  jnm 


*i.  aa.  St.  SfOt 

Bmbo  jin  Nariim).  US.,  n. 

lacte,  fflli  at  Palo,  I3t.i  it 

GliUk),  lU.  ^  ' 

CaF^  •lllagB  of,  M). ;  Roso  di.  aSl . 

Ucinte,  or  Uonle  Albam^Sdj. 

.- ...II of<C»HlOH).  SSt. 

— ■-— M>f  Ucbino,  paUHr.A 

...>  „™,  .„..  .„juo  by   Uadenn.  «■. 
Cbunhe.  of:— at,  Baloena.  SI).;  Otltiti 


CcmtlUo,  dw   luliaii*!    pudiUng  of  Uie 

Ccrrclil  (l4l;<i^tc  city  at  Agjlla,  Etnucu 

Ccrviiilyer.  )01.  lOa 

Couiol,  ducal  CimilT  of,  Uiiir  tkudil 
pilics  01  Uvniino,  S13. ;  Ihni  huonlil 
nisniioQ  M  Anl».  601-1  >*>'  DuthCH 
Sforu  Cnuinl  [raii>ii«rl)>  Mlu  Shiiler), 

Cesena,  lown  of  (CcHiw),  ll».t   lU  cnul 

pillage  br  Kutwt  of  GaiaTa,  lib. 
CiaiHTiai,iD«i(rf,liXI. 

Khsul,  b.  I5M,  ^a2U)'si.*7,W.^S3! 
n.  18.  M.  EH.  70. 71,73. 
CMDIU,  Tillage  and  dwdlvral  cailif  of,  174.  1 

Cette,  cuilliul,  hb  Hmib.  ISIIicctiluir.lSS. 
CtiBjuiioilioQ,  on  the  bieroalrphiea  of  the 

Roman  nMlika.  Sit,  S75. 
ClianicialMin  of  tiicl^pil  Stue>,  alt. 
ChiriUH  or  Kan%  618. 
ChaTleinMncand  Feiiin,exMlibeLombordi 


tin,  expel  Ibe  Lombei 
dix  or  Rome  ard  I 


}j  Ba^acavaUOi 


uf  EllglUH),  ££*,«!&)     hit  mldence  io 
Uio  |>alaco  of  £(.  Mark.  Si6.;  u  Zaga. 


3.  687 

Cblara,  n.,  churehca  nt.  u  AnM,  sat: 
Borxo  a  SepolcTO,  lU. ;  Rnrenu,  M.  j 

Ctlon',  CinKpTK.  Ronan  archllcct,  41& 
Chlarone,  Tiwcan  cuaiom-bouie,  US. 

Chljl,  prliMlT  ftmllV  of,  [hrir  palace  at 
L'Arfccli,  Sa.i    al  Fanme.  liso.]    at 


CaMcl' 

Maria 

S'Ksr.i'.assssi-:; 

Raphael,  MA  i  Iheir  ehapal  al  Slcna.  11,8, 

l^iiwea 

(Mea^alcbl  i;talvl,  li«r  tomb,  .UO. 

^iP 

1  FaWo,  bulidc?  of  thioZiat- 

bapker 

Sib^li 

..  ».  M.  riella  Pace,  tKrenbel. 

.  M.  del  Pppolo.  «1».  1  buiMi  ihe 

1«>X 

or^prlnliBf;  huo-tlybutfuMto 

HIDOdlA 

«  Chloi.,  Dw  Venice,  Io*d  and 

JBItOf 

78^89,81. 

S"!"* 

Monaci  and  Valkno,  lock)  of  the 

Valdi 

Cl.ia™,m 

m  the  capital  of  Por- 


4U9, 1  theic  burial  ]ilacc,«S3, ;  th^r  ontorv 
buiU  hj  Piua  I,  S7.  i  fbur'  of  UiHr^ 


lltlatiaD,  uchUitaoi 


di  Paola,  HI.  I 

Charlotte,  queen  of  JeruuleiD  and  Crpnia,  I 

her  toisb,  ;M.  I 

"beV  In  wS'iUli  ot*La' Vli'to^,"pSL^ 


ilogtanh  iiapn* . 

t»10«t»Hlci,5W. 


CitraA  t,«(lteuu  ffiaarDla).  painter,  of  the 
I'erninw  •elii'ol,  b.  Iim;,  d.  inOi  ». 
Ill  IK. 

rlilasb,  rinr.  961. 

fUJlt,  of  Vittk  di  CMtello,  painlrr,  istli 
ceuturt.  la.  IM.  IW. 

Chlana  ilvcr  ((-laDla),  17a  i  canal,  137. 


lamiirU,  rfawBao,  HmnUna  painter,  ITib 


Chlana  iivcrlt-lau 
,  Val  dl  <IUiiB 


Into  cm-t'  Di  CuntUd  n  Ahbo,  Vft. :  to  i 

Se-  Wo,  ina  ;  lo  Pcniglt,  1(U.  1  to  UfUiw.  .... 

■■■'J.  ,  Cim'  OK.LA  FuTa,  iDwu  of.  Mtt^[dace  or 

!'p'   ■  l«tB«,  170.                                      ' 

A  I  Uj  Chliul,  171. ;  IB  PmigiL  l*(i 

'  HI  Cnni  CiarauiHt,   loon     nT   (■'■Iciiiiin 

Ciiiw  VEccHit  iCcntumceiic  anil  TR^mT 

i:L  CQml.  lis. ;    ta  KmnB  by^ft*   n*W  nilti 

nc.  I  lau  ,  bf  UiB  old  mid.  IW. 

I  <~i-lulh,  Ttlbigi  sT.  near  HMIe  Soubi^ 


IXDEX. 


639^ 


stores  San  Marino  to  its  ciUsens,  115.; 
enlargei  port  of  Ancona  and  builds  the 
Lazzaretto,  124. ;  makes  Civita  Vecchla  a 
A-ee  port,  1S7. ;  builds  Pal.  Conti  and 
Fontana  di  Trevi  at  Rome,  37^. ;  enlarges 
and  builds  facade  of  St  John  LAtcran, 
399. ;  builds  the  CorsinI  chapel  in  the 
same,  400. ;  the  facade  of  S.  Oior.  de' 
Fiorentint,  421.;  covers  with  drapery 
M.  Angclo's  nude  figures  in  the  Last 
Judgment,  44fi. :  founds  the  museum  of 
the  Capitol,  491.;  enriches  it  with  the 
Dying  Gladiator.  497. ;  builds  Pal.  of  the 
Consulta,  and  enlarges  Pal.  Corsini,  507.  ; 
completes  Papal  Palace  on  M.  Cavallo,  514. 
His  tomb,  400. 

Clement  XIII.,  pope  (Ressonico)  enlarges 
museum  of  the  Capitol,  491.;  restores 
Castd  (iandoifo,  5^.  His  magniflcent 
tomb  by  Caiiova,  393. 

XIV.,  pope  (Oanganelli).   his    birth. 

place,  148. ;  his  admiration  of  Houdon's 
stitue  of  S.  Bruno,  425. ;  builds  Museo 
Piu-Ck>mentino,  466.  His  tomb,  by  Ca- 
nova,  414. 

Clementine  Academy,  Bologna,  35. 

Clementino,  Porto  San,  186. 

Clevcs,  Due  de,  his  tomb,  426. 

Climate  of  Bologna,  74. ;  Rome,  S88.  5S0. ; 
Siena,  217. 

Clitumnus,  river  and  temple,  871, 279. 

Clivus  Asyli  and  Cai>it^nus,  318. 

Cloaca  Maxima,  3681 

Clodius,  the  trilninc,  scene  of  his  death  and 
his  supposed  tomb,  5G9. 

Clusium,  Etruscan  city  of,  now  Chlusi,  171. 

Cneius  Scrvilius  Csepio  and  Cassius  Longi- 
nus,  their  aqueduct  (Aqua  Tepula), 366. 

Cofhetft\  living  painter  at  Rome,  523. 

Coimbra,  the  bishop  of,  the  stone  stolen  by 
him  ft-ora  the  Santa  Casa,  129. 

Coinage  of  the  Papal  States,  3,  4. 

Colbordolo,  village  uf,  118.  147. 

Coldazzo,  village  of,  118.  147. 

Cdflorito,  lake  and  village  of,  137. 

Coliseum  at  Rome,  3j9.  ;  by  moonlight, 
341.  ;iU  Flora,  341. 

Collatia.  Aiban  city  of,  now  Lunglieisa  or 
Cas(eld'Osa(?),584. 

CoLLB,  town  and  paper-mills  of,  19k 

Colle  Ferro,  village  of,  .'iSO. 

Cotle,  Rt^ffbele  dei^  or  Rqg^elino,  painter,  of 
the  Roman  school,  fl.  1400-15.^;  117.148. 
151.  153.  156.  158,  159.  161.  447.  453,  454. 
511. 

Collecchio,  inn  of  the  wild-boar  hunters  in 
the  Maremma,  18a 

College  of  Cardinals  (the  Sacred  CoU«ge), 
vli. 

Colleges :  ~  Epiicotml,  at  FrascatI,  founded 
liy  Card.  York,  557. ;  Flemish,  at  Bologna, 
G8. ;  Folfl.  at  Fano,  1 19. ;  Faensa,  105. ; 
Irish,  at  Rome,410L ;  S.  Lulgl,  at  Bologna, 
68. ;  of  Notaries,  at  Bologna  (II  Registro), 
63. ;  Pio,  at  Perugia,  209. ;  Propannda,  at 
Rome,  5:^4. ;  Romano,  at  Rome,  .'$24. ;  8a- 

fiiensa,  at  Rome,  52Sl  ;  Sculopii,  at  UrtHno, 
47. ;  Scolopii,  at  Volterra,  9U0. :  Spanish, 
at  Bologna,  68. ;  Toloraei,  at  SidU,  210. 
Sn7.;  Venturoli,  at  Bologna,  69. 
Collenuccio,  Pandolfo,  hutorian  and  dra- 
matist, strangled  in  prison  as  an  agent  of 
Cesar  BoraU ;  hU  BfSS.  in  ttaa  Library  of 
Pesaro,  117. 
Colletu,  on  tlw  bittto  of  Tbitnkino,  138. 


Colli  Farinelli,  hills  of,  554. 

Colmates,  the  mo<ie  of  draining  the  Val  di 
Chiana  and  Maremma  by  the  deposits  of 
the  rivers,  242. 

Colonna  de*  Frances!  at  Ravenna,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  victory  of  Louis  XII. 
over  Julius  II.,  102. 

dcUa  Vergine,  at  SL  Maria  Maggiore. 

405. 

Colonna,  town  of  the  Maremma,  the  sup- 
posed representative  of  Colonid,  132. 

Colonna,  town  of  (Labicum),  575. 

Colonna,  princely  family  of,  their  palace  at 
Rome,  5()a  ;  their  rise  and  connection  with 
Colonna  and  Palcstrina,  576, 577.;  make  the 
Mausoleum  of  Augustus  their  stronghold, 
356.;  acquire  Marino  from  the  (Jrsini, 
561 . ;  make  Rocca  di  Papa  their  stronghold, 
564.  Cardinals  Oiacomo  and  Pietro  de- 
feated and  excommunicated  by  Boniface 
Vlll.  Paleslrina  razed  to  tlio  ground, 
and  the  familv  driven  out  of  Italy,  577, 
578.  Avenged  by  Sciarra*s  capture  ol'  Bo- 
niface at  Anagni,  578.  Palcstrina  and  its 
fortress  rebuilt  by  Stefano,  the  friend  of 
Petrarch,  who  defends  it  against  Ricnzi, 
578,579.  His  murder  at  Genaczano,  581. 
Francesco  sells  Palcstrina  to  the  Bar- 
bcrini,  578.  Prospero  defends  PaUano 
against  Sixtui  IV.,  582.  Marc  Antonio, 
conqueror  of  the  Turks  at  Lcimnto,  his 
statue,  4Sa  Picture  of  his  victory,  506u 
Portrait  of  Francesco,  506. 

Colonna,  Rione,at  Rome,  2ff7. 

Colonna,  Michael  A Hgelo,  painter,  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school,  b.  ItXX),  d.  1687 ;  32.  4&  50. 
55.  59.  62.  65.  09. 

J  Franeetcot  painter,  of  the  Bolognese 

school,  17th  century,  46. 

Colonnades  of  St.Peter*s,  384. 

Columbaria  of  Rome,  364, 365. ;  of  Veil,  588. 

Columbus,  Christopher,  his  ex-voto  oflTering 
to  the  Madonna  of  Font*  Giusta  at  Siena, 
211.;  his  bust,  488. 

Columna  Bcllica,  so  called,  506.  Miliaria, 
milestone  of  Vespasian  and  Ncr%a,  486. 

Columns :  —  of  Antoninus  Pius,  344. ;  of  C 
Duilius,  the  consul,  345.;  of  the  French, 
at  Ravcnna,'102. ;  of  Phocas,  345.;  of  Tra- 
jan, 346.  t  of  M.  Aurelius  Antoninus,  344.  \ 
of  the  Virgin,  4()5. 

CoMACCHio,  garrison  of,  23. ;  town,  80. ;  its 
fisheries  celebrated  by  Ariosto  and  Taaso. 
8a 

Comarca,  the  province  of  Rome,  ^HS. 

Commenda,  lis,  near  Perugia,  252. 

Commentaries  on  the  New  Testament,  MS. 
of  14th  century,  with  miniatures,  484. 

Commerce  and  manufactures  of  the  Papal 
States,  xL 

Commodus,  his  tomb,  361. 

Compagnia  de'  Lonibardi,  at  Bologna,  iSL 

Coropatri,  Monte,  village  of,  575. 

Ck>mpitum  Vios  J1!Unylia^,  now  Savignano  or 
Longiano,  1 10. 

Conca,  river,  (Cnutumius),  116. 

Conca,  Sebattlano,  painter,  of  the  Roman 
school  b.  1676,  d.  1764,  215.  401. 423. 

-— ,  Tonumuo,  painter,  of  Citti  di  Cas- 
teUo,  150, 151. 15G.  536. 

Concezionc,  La,  church  of,  at  Sena,  210. 

Conciolot  painter,  13th  centurv,  fl.  1219,  55a 

Conclaves  for  the  clectioii  of  popes  at  Vi- 
terbo,  ISth  century,  S&4. 

Conclavet  of  cardinaU^  ^tnitft  VA^A..»tk\\. 


Cocaeto,  Card. 


AUai.ai.SS. 


INDEX, 


641 


Coundla  General,  of  Ferran  (Union  of 
Greek  and  Latin  Churches),  12.  18. ;  of 
Rimini  (Arians  and  Athana«ianc),  112. ; 
St.  John  Lateran,  1.  (the  Investiture))  2. 
(heresy  of  P.  de  Bruys  and  Arnold  of 
Brescia);  3.  (Schism  of  Fred.  L,  Wat- 
denses  and  Albigenses);  4.  (Heresiet  of 
Albcricand  the  Abbot  Joachim) ;  5.  (Abo- 
lition  of  Pragmatic  Sanction  and  the  Coa- 
cordat  with  Francis  I.)  401. 

Courtenay,  Peter  tie,  his  coronation  as  Em- 
peror of  the  East,  407. 

CoTigliaJo,  Aiienniue  poat-houae,  76. 

CmxarcVA',  of  Siena,  iculptor,!  16th  century, 

zlv* 

Cramer.  Dr.,  dean  of  Carlisle,  on  the  meet- 
ing of  the  second  triumirirate,  S7. ;  on  the 
Utibicon,  110.;  on  Mevania,  £71. ;  on  the 
Clitumnus,  271.;  Six>letium,  27SL:  the 
Falls  of  Terni,  277. 

CranaeA,  Lncat,  German  painter,  fl.  1472— 
1553,  rMl. 

Crirti/an^  living  American  tculptOTfat  Roniek 

Credit,  letters  of,  3. 

Cremcra  river,  285.  585. 

Cremonese  {Gituepve  Caletti),  painter,  of  the 
Ferrarese  school,  called  **  the  painter  of 
books,"  d.  1660. 17. 

Crescentian,  St.,  his  martyrdom  at  Pieve  de' 
Saddi,  150. 

Crescenzio,  Nomentano,  consul  of  Rone, 
10th  century,  atrenethens  C.  of  St.  An* 
gelo  against  Otho  111.,  S6I. ;  gives  it  the 
name  of  C.  di  Cresecnsio;  the  so-called 
house  of  Rienai,  supposed  to  have  been  oc- 
cupied by  his  family,  376.    His  tomb,4d4. 

Crescimbeoi,  Mario,  the  historian,  founder 
ofthe  Arcadian  Academy,  535.  His  birth- 
place, ISa.    His  tomb,  4S6. 

Crtsvt\  Ghueppe,  called  also  Spagmuoht 
painter  of  the  Bolognese  school,  b.  1665, 
d.  1747,  55. 

,    Canomico  Lttigi^    son    of    Giuseppe, 

pointer  and  writer  on  art,  d.  1779, 55.  6U. 

,  Antonio,  son  of  Giuseppe,  d.  1781,  £5. 

CrestL,  Dotnenieo.    See  Peuugnmno. 

Cretin  Donato,  painter,  of  the  Bologncfle 
school,  b.  1671,  d.  1749,  43.  65.  fi& 

Crictina,  S.,  her  attempted  martyrdom  In 
the  lake  of  Bolsena,  1^28j  churcbet  of,  at 
Bologna,  51.;  Bolsena,  221. 

CriMttfani,  Fabio.  del  Picemo,  moaaiclst,  fl. 
173c{,396. 

Cristoforo,  &,  church  of,  at  Siena,  2ia 

Cristoforo.  San,  baths  of,  106. 

CriveilL  CaHo,  painter,  of  the  Venetian 
school,  fl.  1476,  459. 

— — ,  |>ainter,  of  Spoleto,  fl.  1502.  fi73L 

Croce,  Santa,  churches  of,  at  Aresao,  2401 : 
Fano,  119. ;  Forli,  107.}  FraUa,  160.;  in 
Gcrusalemme  (Basilica),  Rome,  405. }  Ra- 
venna. Wi. ;  di  Oiomo.  VoUerra,  200. 

Croett  BaUaamre,  painter,  of  the  Bologneae 
school,  pupil  of  Ann.  Caracd,  d.  1528^  227. 

Crocelle,  village  of,  m. 

Crocctta  del  frebbo,  scene  of  the  meeting 
of  the  second  triumvirate,  27. 

Croci/iM,  SitMone  daL  See  Bolognm,  Si- 
momeda, 

Croma  {GfuUo  Cromer)^  painter,  of  the  Fw- 
rareae  school,  h.  1572,  d.  1632, 1& 

Cromlechs,  Druldical,  of  England,  tombe  at 
Satumia  resembling  them,  022. 

Crucifixes,  cclcbralid  —  at  Bolotmat  one  of 


wood,  dating  ftom  960,  one  of  the  most 
fkmous  in  Italy,  53. ;  one  said  to  have 
spoken,  in  1242,  5:11. ;  one  of  fig>tree  wood, 
(NTior  to  A.o.  1000, 55. ;  at  Ravenna^  one  of 
silver,  with  scult^ures  of  6th  century,  87. } 
one  of  wood,  said  to  have  sweated  blood 
during  the  battle  of  Ravenna,  90. ;  at 
Siena,  one  carried  by  the  Sicnesc  at  the 
battle  of  Monte  Aperto,  S09. ;  one  by 
Giunta  di  Pisa,  212. 

Crustumerium,  Attuin,  city  (rf^,  now  Monte 
Rotondo,  177. 

Crustumius,  fluv.,  now  the  Conca,  116. 

Cucumella,  La,  the  cdebratcd  tumului  at 
Vulci,  616L 

Cumerium,  prom,  now  Monte  Comero,  183. 

CuH/fi,  G4o.  Battisia,  of  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro, 
painter,  16th  century,  158, 159. 

,  Francesco,  of  Borgo  S.  Sepolcro,  17th 

century,  1£8. 

Cunio,  castle  of,  83. 

Cupid  of  Praxiteles,  two  repetitions  of  it  In 
the  Vatican,  462. ;  one  in  tne  Capitol,  499.: 
onein  ViIUAlbani,534L 

Cures,  Sabine  city  of,  now  Correae,  176L  Ita 
ancient  citadel,  occupied  by  the  church  of 
Madonna  dell'  Arci,  177.  History  of  ita 
kings,  Tatius  and  Numa,  commemorated 
by  Virgil,  177. 

Curia— of  Augustus,  319. ;  Hostllia,  318.; 
Julia,  319. :  of  Pompey,  scene  of  the  death 
of  Caesar,  338. 

Innocentiana,  palace  of  the,  Rome,  508. 

Curradi,  Cav,  Franceico,  painter,  of  the  Flo- 
rentine school,  b.  1570^  d.  1661.  198,  1S9, 
20a 

Curran,  John  P.,  tomb  of  his  daughter,  483. 

Curtius,  celebrated  bas-rdlcf  of  his  leap  Into 
the  gulf,  488. 

Cusanl,  cardinal,  his  tomb,  437. 

Custom-houae  (Dogana),  3. 

Cyclopes  and  Cyclopean  architecture,  hit* 
tory,  xix.     Walls  of  Comiculum,  177. 

Cypresses  planted  by  S.  Domeuico,  48, 49.  s 
planted  by  Bl  Angelo,  425. 

Cyriaca,  Sta.,  site  of  her  house  at  Rome,  489. 


Daddi,  Cotimo,  painter,  of  the  Florentin« 
school,  fl.  1614.  199. 200. 

Daimasio,  Lippo,  painter,  of  the  Bologneie 
school,  fl.  1380-1410,  3L  41.  47.  49.  53.  55. 
58.  6a  70.  7a 

Dalmatlca,  the.  ofthe  8th  century,  worn  by 
the  emperors,  393. 

Daimasio,  8.,  church  of,  at  Volterra,  200. 

Damiano,  S.,  church  of,  at  Assisi,  269. 

DamfMto  da  Bergamo,  Fta.,  celebrated 
worker  in  tarsia,  16th  century,  48. 258. 

,  Felice,  of  Gubblo,  painter,  fl.  1586-1606^ 

161. 

Daniel,  Ma,  ofthe  Septuagint  version,  50d. 

Dante,  Alignieri,  his  tomb  at  Ravenna.  91.  ; 
house  at  Gubbio,  102. ;  portrait  by  GluHo 
Romano,  538. ;  bust  in  the  Capitol,  408. 
MSS.  of  the  Divina  Commedia :  —  one  oa 
vellum  with  miniatures,  14th  century,  97. ; 
one  at  Cortona,  S4&  ;  one  with  miniatures, 
14th  centurv,  411. ;  one  with  minlaturea, 
by  Giulio  ClovioL  16th  century,  484. ;  one 
in  the  handwriting  of  Boccaccio,  with 
notes  supposed  to  be  bv  PKrarch,  484. ;  80 
copies  In  tlie  Bartierlnl  Library,  one  a  folio 
on  vellum,  with  the  richest  llluminatioaa 
known,  501 :  —printed  copies :— editioa  oC 


n.eol;      Dlgciitii>,DawTlllas*otL.ic 


ii'ff'  '"ii/,'"T'jiii.'i''6loll')r  otF^ea*^l,Wi 
lU,  l'.»cu  uf  Siniina.  Ui3.  i  tl«  Fk- 
'■'■""/-nT'LiSiilJ^  ««  a  y_^||,^ 
Ihii  du  cf  Siua,  FmU  Bniuli, 
PuUH  dd  Cmnpa,  Ua. ;  idhuiih  i^ 

MAw  /fwaw.  the  Domtniun,  ccle. 
Un,  d,  15Wi  Ul«lniiru]lui(>rlle1a«iu, 

coUier.otP.  I(ii4Uio,  luUn- 
I}e  AiigtI.i.  bit  JUtQv.'ry  a  •utlquitlM  Ln 

rwhu'ii  will  o","coo.    '"" '' 

1JH1UI  Ihi  fousfoc,  hit  dcTotiao   M  lbs 
DKix-a  Di  ihe  Inquiiiiian,  colIectiuD  af,  ftam 


iclDcollliHCif  V«l^  sS7.  i 


the  iEiitld  of  Anniisle  Can,  SOL 
Dialect  oc  Bologni,  ^^.-,  u(  Simm,  SI 7. 
Ulinii,  Uinple  of,  oil  the  Algidui.  iSS. ; 


Dliitatau. 


w  vT  SMUmiib  Ait  I 
IS.     Miufhli  "Ab- 

nrPrcderiDli  ILcnM" 


ullnliaii  of,  Ccum  SUi  to  ttb  c^uif.-Uli 
iicnbolui  Df  iliran.  Id  tbe  ViUcn,  13*. : 

■  nipetitJDDofit  ID  MaiiiiolPsliieftMa> 
HiuBHUeiiliii,Iniiple  or,  lt(Bae,Sie- 


Dolcl.  CvMiDnintM.af  tlieFldi«liiHKlM»V 
b.l616.d.lafl,8i6S.S0S.SU8.      ^^ 


tamb,  M.  i  IilJ  u 


conaiii.  bts.  -,  Pmw,  119. !  Ftmn.  tt., 

Oubbiu.  l».i  Or>i«D,  ICa  ;  Poniglvtt&r 
Fhiid,  tlG.;  apolun,  £73.  i  ns<eniii,n.! 

,  nsnuisr]',  u  Rome  i^.  M.  bi^>  Mi- 


a.  *!S,  as.  «s,  4.!i, , 


INDEX. 


643 


Donniiii,  Giro&imo,  painter,  or  the  Bolognete 
•chool,  pupil  of  Clgnani,  U  IGSl,  d.  1743, 
55. 

Doria,  princely  fkmily  of.  their  palace  at 
Rome,  508.  Villa  at  AltMino,  ^0.  An- 
drea  Doria,  his  naval  achievements,  **  the 
Dorla's  Menace,'*  79. ;  his  portrait  by  Seb. 
del  Piombo,  509. ;  Card  l>oria,  his  resto- 
ration  of  Church  of  S.  Cecilia,  418. ;  his 
Gothic  palace  near  Perugia,  249. 

Don'o,  Roman  sculptor,  16tn  century,  423. 

Dossi,  Dogsot  painter,  of  the  Fcrrarcse  school, 
d.  15eU,  12.  16,  17. 19.  257.  490.  502. 

-«— ,  Giobath'sta,  painter,  of  the  Fermresc 
school,  d.  1545, 12.  17. ;  his  tomb,  17. 

Duttif  Carlo  Francesco^  Bolognese  architect, 
18th  century,  39.  56.  72. 

Dovadola,  village  of,  78. 

Douft  Gtrardf  painter,  of  the  Dutch  school, 
17th  century,  his  Chemist,  97. 

Drove  torrent,  193. 

Drusus,  father  of  Claudius,  his  arch  at  Rome, 
347. ;  his  tomb,  356. ;  statues  of  bis  fa- 
mily, 498. 

Dryden,  makes  the  Pineta  of  Ravenna  the 
scene  of  his  Theodore  and  Honoria,  102. 

Dmca,  Giacmno  det^  Roman  architect,  17th 
century,  431.  486. 

Ducci,  VirgiUo,  of  CiUk  dl  Castello,  painter, 
17tl)  century,  pupil  of  Albanl,  15a  153. 

Dvcefo.    .See  Buonimtegna. 

Duchies  of  Rome,  Bencvento,  and  Spolcto, 
acqulretl  by  the  floly  See,  v.  vi. 

Duglioli,  Beata  EltMia  dall*  Olio,  commissions 
Raphael  to  paint  the  SL  Cecilia ;  her  tomb, 
5.'J. 

Duilius,  C,  the  consul,  his  column  at  Rome, 
restored  by  M.  Angelo,  345.  488. 

Dumas,  M ,  his  account  of  Oaspcrnne.  188. 

Duraiid,  Guillaume,  bishop  of  Meitde,  his 
tomb,  4J8. 

DUrer,  Albert^  painter,  of  the  German  school, 
b.  1470,  d.  1528,  97.  22*.  (?),  500.  (t),  507, 
5(»8,  509.  516.  CO,  518. 

Dutens,  the  French  .antiouary,  on  the  dis- 
covery of  the  body  of  Scipio  Barbatus,  467, 

Dying  Gladiator,  the,  of  the  Capitol,  496l 


Earthenware,    early    manufhcture    of,    at 

Faenza,  105. ;  at  Pesaro,  117. 
—  pavement  in  S.  Pctronio,  B<riogna,  45. 
Earthquakes,  at  Assisl,  265. ;  Borgo  &  Se- 

polnro,  157. ;  Foligno,  270.  :  Home,  314. 
Eastern  Empire,  chronological  tables  of,  xxx. 
Eastlake,   Mr.,  on  the  Duchess  of  Urbino, 

143. ;  on  Raphael's  connection  with  *Ora 

court  of  Urbino,  144. ;   on  the  worl^t  dC 

Pietro  delta  Franccsca,  157.  i  on  the  tomb 

of  Raphael,  332. 
Ecclesiastical   KsUblishment  of  the  Papal 

States,  ix. 
Echo,  the  celebrated,  at  Ferrara,  IG. 
Education  in  the  Pa|«l  States,  x. 
Edward    I.,   king  of  England,  at  Viterbo 

during  the  murder  of  Prince  Henry,  225. 
^d>ert,  king  of   England,   rebuilds   0(fk*s 

Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  at  Rome,  440. 
I^ria,  fountain  and  valley  of,  at  Rome, 

371. ;  ftMinUin  of,  at  L:tke  of  Nemi,  574. 
I^idio.  K .  church  of.  at  C.  di  Castello,  153. 
Egyptian  Museum  of  the  Vatican,  465.  479. 
Eiagabaliis,  builds  portico  of  baths  of  Cara- 

calla,  3Sa 


Elgin  and  Eglnetan  Marbles,  casts  of,  pre* 
sented  by  George  IV.  to  Pius  VII.,  497. 

Elm,  the  gigantic,  of  L*  Olmo,  near  Arezz(\ 
243. 

Elsa  river,  193. 

Elvella  torrent,  219. 

Emperors,  chronological  tables  of,  Roman, 
xxix. ;  Christian,  xxx. ;  of  the  Western 
Empire,  xxx. :  Eastern  Empire,  xxx. ; 
Prankish,  xxxi. ;  German  emperors  of 
Italy,  xxx. ;  emperors  of  Germany,  xxxi. 

,  Hall  of  the,  at  the  Capitol,  494. 

Empire,  ruins  of  the,  at  Rome,  311. 

Emfoli,  town  of,  194.  204. 

£mpoii,  Jacopo  da  ( Cktmcnti),  painter,  of  the 
Florentine  school,  b.  1554,  d.  1640;  245, 

Empulum,  now  Ampiglione,  xviii. 

England,— official  reports  on  Catholicism  in 
England  under  Charles  I.,  501.;  on  the 
INTOgress  of  the  Reformation  in,  512. ;  the 
ancient  palace  of,  512. 

English  Church  at  Rome,  291. ;  burial- 
ground,  529.;  college,  440.;  club,  290.; 
warehouses,  299. 

Engravers  at  Rome,  cameos,  pietra  dura, 
gems,  copper,  &c.,  292. 

Engravings,  collection  of,  at  the  Vatican, 
4^3. 

Enzius,  or  Ilensius,  king  of  Sardinia,  natural  • 
•on  of  the  emperor  Frederick  II.,  cum*- 
-maikler  of  the  <}hibelincs,  captured  by  the 
Bolognese  (luelphs  at  the  battle  of  Fos- 
salta,  28,  29.    His  prison,  59.    His  tomb 
48. 

Era  river,  194^  195. 204. 

Ercolano,  S.,  church  of,  Perugia,  253 

Eretum,  Latin  city  of,  177. 

Esino  river,  122. 

Esquillne,  one  of  the  7  hills  of  Rome,  906. 

Est,  Est,  Est,  the  famous  wine  of  Monte- 

'  fiascone,  223. 

Este,  (d*)  ducal  family  of  Ferrara.  10, 11, 12. 
16.  18,  19.  Alberto,  statue  of,  in  his  nil. 
grim*s  dress,  15.  Azso,  piitron  of  the  line 
arts,  12.  Alfonso  I.,  patron  of  literature 
and  art,  12.  16.  21.  22. ;  commands,  with 
Gaston  de  Foix,  at  the  battle  of  Ravenna, 
102, 103.  His  wife,  the  DuchcM  Barbara  of 
Austria,  celebrated  by  I'asso,  18.  Alfonso . 
II.,  extinction  of  the  legitimate  branch,  11. 
Borso,  Hrst  duke  of  Ferrar.i,  his  residence 
at  Rome,  518.  H  is  tomb,  18.  Cssar,  loses 
Ferrara  by  his  Illegitimacy,  11.  Ercolc  II., 
patron  of  art,  12, 13.  His  portrait  by  Sell, 
del  Piombo,  509.  His  wire,  the  Ducbesa 
Renfe,   promotes  the   Hefonnation,  and 

fives  asylum  to  Calvin  and  Marot,  13. 
Francesco,  general  of  Charles  V.,  buried  by 
the  I/ombanl  emigrants,  82.  Card.  Ippolito 
I.,  the  ptron  of  Ariot«to  and  Calcagnini, 
16, 17.  W).  Card.  Ippolito  II.,  governor  "of 
'I'ivuli,  constructs  theSolfatara  Canal,  543.; : 
builds  Villa  d'  Este,  550.  Lucrezia,  duchess 
of  Urbino,  induces  Tasso  to  settle  at 
VwTLtn,  116. 

,  Villa,  at  Tivoli,  550. 

E»te  (<f'),  Alenandro^  and  Antonio,  motlem 
Roman  iculptors,  487,  4S8. 

Estouteville,  Cardinal  d',  ambassador  of 
Fr.-ince,  builds  Church  of  8.  Agostino  at 
Rome,  411. ;  tlie  fountain  at  Frascati,  556w; 
the  Ca»tle  of  Ostia,  594. 

Ethelwolf,  king  of  England,  bis  agreement  to 


Fftbrvlti,  RqphAel,  df  Drbina.  tlw  uiIiqupTy, 
lUu  Tabic  ortriiCailildl,  193.     Hittnmb 

fainaiia.  GfmUlf  W.  piinler,  af  the  Floren. 
flueictiDoI,  a.  JUO,  IGS-S^. 


hli  ciuK  cubnced  Iqr  Slrna,  ■iOS. ;  dB 
tho  Cudphiat  UoDle  AperW,  SOd. 

F«rn«M,'vUl»«e    of    rUaumui^?},  giTcs 

Firnoe,  dual  bmili  o^  ittir  ralwe  ■( 
Raue,  3U9.  i  tIIIi,  Sil.  i  Ibai  UMoir.  U- 
luUnled    bj  tba  7 '    —  " '- 


if  6ii»nniU,  ti 


IKDEXt 


645 


to  decorate  the  monastery  of  Orotta  Fer- 

rata,  561. 
Famesina  Pal.ice,'at  Rome,  510. 
Faro,  the  ancient  Pharos  of  Ravenna,  99. 
Fasti  Contulares  of  the  Capitol,  490. ;  Sacri, 

(Calendar  of  Verrius  Flaccus),  518. 
Fat  tore,  II.    See  Pcnm. 
Faun  of  the  Capitol,  485. ;   of  Praxiteles, 

4^.  472.  497.  5S3,  534. 
Fnunus,  the  supposed  site  of  the  Oracle  of, 

553. 
Fava  Palace,  at  Bologna,  64^    Tomb  of  Nic- 

col6  Fava,  53. 
Favcntia,  now  Faensa,  105. 
Fea,  Abate,  librarian  of  the  Chlgi  Palace, 

50t>.  ;  on  the  Mosaic  of  Palestrina,  579. 
Federighi,  Antoni>,  painter  and  sctilptor,  of 

Siena,  fl.  1480 ;  209.  213. 
Fclician  S.,  church  of,  at  Foligno,  270. 
Felix  I., pope;  his    foundation  of  S.  Pan- 

crazio,  434. 
— —  IV.,  pope,    adapts   temple  of  Remus 

to  his  church  of  &  Cosmo  e  Damiano, 

3:33. 
FcUina,  Etruscan  city  of,  now  Bologna,  28. 
Female  professors,  celebrated,  at  the.UnlTcr' 

sity  or  Bologna,  37.  38. 
Fcniin.ind  and  Isah^la,   present  the  first 

gold  brought  to  Spain  flrom  Peru  to  Alex- 
ander VI.,  for'gilding  the  roof  of  S.  M. 

Maggioro,    403. ;  rebuild    church    of    S. 

Fietro  in  Montorio,   435. ;   build   chapel 

flrom  the  designs  of  Braroante  on  the  apot 

of  St.  Peter's  martyrdom,  436L 
Ferentina,  Aqua,  site  of  the,  562. 
F^rcnto,  ruins  of  (Ferentinum>,  229L 
Feriae  Latimc,  scene  of  the,  565. 
Fcrmntini^  Gabrtc/,  called,  also,  "  Oabriele 

dagli  Occhiali,"  painter,  of  the  Bolognese 

school,  6.  1588,  59. 
Ferbara.  fitT  of,  10—24. 
,   chronological    list   of    signorl    and 

dukes  of.  xxxri. 
— —  to  nolo^iia,  25. ;  to  Mantua,  Modenn, 

and  Parma,  9. ;  to  Ravenna,  24. ;  to  Ve- 
nice, 2(. 
Fvrrarot  Antonio  da,  painter,  of  the  Fenra- 

rcse  school,  d.  1450;  12. 

,  Frcote  da.    See  Grandf. 

,  Lodovico  da.    See  Maxzolini. 

Ferrari^   FrameetcOy    Roman   architect,   11. 

1/30.  422. 
— ^.  Antonio,   painter,    of   the   Bolognese 

scluK)!,  17th  century,  46. 
Ftrrrata,  Ercole,  sculptor,  17th  century,  pu- 
pil of  Bernini,  209.  374.  392.  405.  410,  411, 

412. 
Fi'rrrri,  Andrea,  Bolognese  sculptor,  18th 

century,  15.  17,  IS. 
Ferretti,  the  poet,  his  birthplace,  126. 
Ft'rn\  Ciro,  ixiinter,  of  the  Roman  school, 

b.  lt>34,  d.  1(»9,  408.  410.  424. ;  his  tomb, 

4J1. 
Frrrnzif,  Andrea  di  Piero  di  Marco,  sculp- 
tor, at  Volierra,  198. 
Fescenuiuin,  Fali«can  city  of,  celebrated  for 

it<  nuptial  song4,  now  Gallese,  228.  281. 
Fe«rh,  Card.,  his  late  gallery  at  Rome,  509. ; 

his  tomb.  611. 
Festa,  Picdmontcsc  sculptor,  412. 
Festivals  —  Of  the  Annunciation,  428.:  of 

St.   Antony  (blessing  the  animals),  414. ; 

of  the  Artisti,  2**4.  ;  of  Sta.  Bonaventura, 

414.  ;  of  S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  418. ;  of  the 

Carutval,  291. }  of  St  Catherine  of  Siena, 


216. ;  of  Corpus  Domini,  to  commemorate 
the  miracle  of  Bolsena,  221.  Ai8. ;  of  the 
Exaltation  of  the  Cro5S,  424. ;  of  Sta. 
Franccsca  Romana,  420. ;  of  S.  Ignatius, 
420. ;  of  St.  John  l^teran,  401. :  of  the 
Infiorata  at  Oenzano,  573. ;  of  tne  Last 
Day  of  the  Year,  420. ;  of  Sta.  Maria  Mag. 
giore,  405. :  of  the  Madonna  di  Buon  Con- 
siglio  at  Uenassano,  581.;  of  St.  Mark, 
424. ;  of  October,  294. ;  of  St  Peter's, 
394—396. ;  of  S.  Pietro  in  VIncoli,  437. ; 
of  the  Pratone  on  Monte  Genaro,  554. ; 
of  the  Presepio  in  Ara  Coeli,  416.;  of 
St.  Thomas  Aquinas.  428. ;  of  St.  Thomas 
h  Recket  441. ;  of  the  Tre  Ore  and  Sette 
Dolori,  412. ;  hashing  the  Feet  of  the 
Pilgrims,  441. 

Ffammin^o,  Giovanni,  painter,  of  the  Bo- 
man  school,  16th  century,  257.  516. 

'  —  {Francois  du  Quesnoy),  of  Bms- 
sels,  sculptor,  pupil  of  Bernini,  17th  cen- 
tury, his  statue  of  St  Andrew,  387. ; 
tomlis,  42a ;  his  celebrated  statue  of  S. 
Susanna,  426. 

— — .   Sec  Calvart.  \ 

FicuUe,  village  of,  170. 

Fidena?,  Sabine  city  of,  now  Castel  GiubI*eo. 

na 

Hcschi,  Card.  Guglielmo,  nephew  of  Inno- 
cent IV.,  his  tomb,  408. 

Ftesole,  Andrea  da,  sculptor,  15th  century, 
49.57. 

— ,  Be<ito  Oh.  Angelico  da.    See  Angellco. 

^— ,  Mrno'  da,  Florentine'  sculptor,  fl. 
1478.  198,  li^.  257. 

Figllne,  village  of,  236. 

Filareta,  Antonio,  Florentine  sculptor,  fl, 
1440.    Bronse  doors  of  St.  Peter's,  385. 

Filelfo,  birthplace  and  bust  of,  130. 

Filigare,  post  station,  75.  ;  'Z 

Filippi,  Bastiano.    See  Bastianino. 

Filippini,  P.,  general  of  the  Carmelites,  re- 
stores S.  Martino  ai  Monti.  433. 

Filippo,  Neri  8.  (see  also  Neri),  churches  of, 
atFano,  119.;  Forii,  107. 

Filotrano.  village  of.  123.  'T 

Finale,  Modenese  frontier,  10. 

Fine  river,  180. 

Finelli,  Carlo,  living  Roman  sculptor,  468. 
614.  522.  ^ 

FInocchio,  village  of,  583. 

Fiora  river.  186.  615.  621. 

Flora,  S.,  cnurch  of,  at  Arcno,  2S9. 

Fioravanti,  Bartolammeo,  Bolognese  archi- 
tect and  engineer,  fl.  1455,  03. 

Fiorentino,  Atnolo,  sculptor  In  wood,  16th 
century,  251 

— ^,  Arno(fb.    See  Amoffo. 

Fiorenzo.  S.,  church  of,  Perugia,  256. 

Fiorini,  Giambaltiata,  painter  of  the  Bo- 
lognese school,  fl.  1588, 42.  50. 

.  Gabrie/e,  son  of  the  painter,  Bo- 
lognese sculptor,  fl.  lono,  50.  5iS. 

Firenze,  Palazzo  di.  at  Rome,  512.     • ' 

Firenzi',  Amolfo  di.    See  I^po. 

,  Jacopo  da,  painter  of  the  Florentine 

school,  fl.  1370—1410,  200. 

— •,  .yjarco  di,  pointer,  17th  century,  481. 

Fiuraicino  river,  110,  111. 

Fiumicino  village,  at  mouth  of  the  Tiber, 

597.  rm. 

Flantberti,  Tommato,  sculptor  of  Ravenna. 

91. 
Flaminius,    the  consul,   his  overthrow  by 

Hannibal  on  the  Lake  of  Thrasimene« 


fe" 


1«.  i  IM  Maptuiw  or  JiAn  or  Bologna.  SI. : 

in*  Ili>ioiin»e  dlals^  T4. ;  ihe  ucbM  cJ 

Ike  ICiiwIv  iKKiily  ■[  Aneoni,  IS&  ;  nis^ 
tdaar  CUiuninui.?7i.i  tem|jc of  tM  Dl. 


_ .  _  ForlL  77. 1  lo  Rb- 

tlmmi  IbtUUttomll.  lU.  1 

I.  Itn-iM,  bi  Arcuo.  Z3^  > 

rwriuu,  B..  (UUith  of.  Ml  C.  di  CutElls,  lU, 

I'ljiJi'ii,  m  tnaible  u^  itf  Ibc  SiaU  Ccu, 

•I  Uartu.  lai 
V<i»li.  live.  1I..I.FU.).  llfi,  117.  U7. 

Ffll.iii  nil.*.:  '■(.  US. 

i^r*<,  Roman  niKlaw.  ISIh  ecnmrj,  MS. 

pDUt.^iD,  cily  ar(P>iJ|uilIim),  £70.  r, 

loAiicon».12;.ilof»no,  138. 

FviUiut.  \'eci}lo  di.     hrt  AtumUh 

,  l:.l<  o  AnUnk,  di.  wlilUl.  sT  the  UlD- 

brlin  irliunl,  fl.  I19£.S«>, 
/W/r,  Hrl^iliani).   palntor,    of   Die   8l«nMe 


::«5?^lni.in»^''an"  bii  B 


Sl-fi 


'i:tt>-.  tiHi  iui1on,3IS, 

Id.  l^TJu.arcbiucl.a.  10..    .. 

j'.il,  JUO.  40!,  103,  104.  C(.  4 

Uamtmica,    nt    CoiDD,     ar 
d.  10)7,  i7S,  S7»,  STi.  S77. 


1—171*,  E77. 


ifrearn,  painter,  of  Uie  BoloBnai 
Ml,  ».  ISIS,  d.  ugr,  33.  sa.  51  SF.  Gs 


FcprHirlHno,  I^rtren  oT,  f^ 


™'ii(yt.rall.-.l,  aaiC  i'cofnelii,  .fnioll|', 
H.;  PUm.ml  (t..i.lfll  S.  Glovani.i).  IW.; 


aU),l(}9.i  RMMIIum,  316.  330,  ;  I 

ii'tBM.fe.iDrr™>n,3a). 

cbirarl  Amllr,  th^r  Unnb,  lath  i 


PieT>,  UQ.;  neu  the  UBtsure,  lSt).i  n 

Uia  Umar  v«l  i'  Aroo.  630. 
Fo«o  di  PonUTilo  (Crenn^T.).  687. j  ^e'  4W 

FohI.  S8S.  1  deU'  IxKa,  eST.  i  del  Piao.Sei.i 

Oateria.Hcl.JSS.  SH7. 
FuSEOUBBONa,  lawn  at  (Forum  Senpnn^ 

His  oclrtaalcd  dMiMge  worts  in  Ihe^Ti*- 
can  Uardiiuna,eM,i&i  Mie  Val  dl  CUuia, 

Panndltng  Hsnltnl  oT  Rono,  SSJ. 
FouQlaiua,  ancient;— of  E^io,  it  Hcau 


(del  dUma}, 

!ddOiianle),61.t«*». 
dlRuT.  ESa^i  atJlMM 
-  -'  Bamc  (Pullu,  dH 


(nf  Paul  v.],  lis. ,  at  JlDnr  (Pullu,  *i 
TrKune.  deAe  Taitiruclie].  S77.  i  {laTM, 
of  Fiona  Narona,  ddia  Barw^.U' 
Acqua  Felice,  ot  Founiain  cF  Uoie^Sni ; 
(of  FUm  of  St.  reUr'a,  of  FuncK  Bk- 
lace,  at  FontB  S^o,  del  Campldiicna,  of 
MD1.IB  Civalio),  379.:  at  JUauT»a» 
Raja,  dl  Follsnlci.  F.  Annda.  F.  HHWa), 
JII4,li3,,  Bl  Folltrra  iSan  Frileei.lDL 
Fracutoriu,  Jemme,  celebrnied  plinHlHi, 
cBDiei  ihe  Cmindi  of  Trent  la  reotowa  U 


'eira  rfeUfljulnler,  of  (he  Um- 
ilSti  Its.  IS*.  191.  iStT^' 


M7 

iptnn  aod  occDutlon  of  TItdII,  h 
icAd-quartcnor  Ihc  Ohlbe<in«,m  j 
lege  of  SoviiM,  6W,  (  hli  MS.  Trs. 
■nTIiwkine,  *"■ 


:n  anhblOflo.  I  hki  conlcit  sHh 

-'grill.  iUiinnlidbiS|iln*UD 

a,  t\3.  i  hiiuUeil  br  npc 

AniiHi  11.  ucJiirc  hit  rourl  it  VtHrbo, 

dt J<Sit|H  ll^C^^nund luiD* (ha Una. 

u' n'uM^t^%ri•t^lv!^  and  ."bl!!?!!^ 


jHi,  in.  i   hii  dfima  of  Itaonna  ftom  ^ 


tcll>.3&9. 

0.rf=w.    S=f/*J« 

IPuhatt),     nllid  iit» 

rnjMnai  and  S. 
|«(lltor,of  the] 

iSSii 

'^"■■'Sa! 

Cagllanll,  Smiai 

J«' 

s,ff,a„„.. 

painler,  d.  1665, 

as*. 

cl7«,»»>>j4«^ 

rn^lcilU. 

,  Cms,  ^lea^ 

of  tl,«  -Boi^gnw 

e  ■chool, 

wlolrr. 

Bf  0.«F«i««c 

Khotri,  «.  1»0»_1*».  It. 

Gilani,   rrtncnl. 

Oalcuio,   OioD. 

hli  dcftal  of  BntingUa 

r 


lia«uw    r4    VHMte.    U*   fltloi  of  ttit      Gttnila4l  !flcta'»,  txi 
nhknt>««-h«toHli,«1.  wnuol.fl.  IS4S,  II!. 

ifiri^K??  aVL  Juu,  1(i(L  t^l.  '  I      P^^^t  In  ^  FTKiicd^  < 

OiiUlfa,lili  MiaHiml  H8M.,  H^l.    niHdil      Gtll,  Sii  Wlllinn,  •■>' 

ncnUsTKIi  lrltl.il!.  |rr>und«  IhB  Aai         o(  Alhm  Longn, 

■hrt^nm.  sm     llu  liu.l,  4W.  riui  of  Anlenuue,  179, :  on  Ihe  Late 

•Ml*  PiKldU.   imptcu  <>(  ConiUnlLnap)?,  AUWID.SS7.  I    Dn  Culrl  d'AlH   — 

Muf  hlH   or  Tlw»l<-lu<.     h.i    •dminli.  ttie  lociHIla  of  Veil,  SS5,  586. 

MthHi  M  It»ennn.  M.     Finindi  (hm  |  GMlUn,  Moatc,  CHdiu  LuckUIIi),     .     ... 

•«  S  Lur*u(t.  <t  n«H,  (07.    Kcinuu.      CEKUURO.loiin  andculteoT.SSI, 

OmntM.'  srmitnrn  (boMIc) U, BoKhdi,  :      gnrklL.niiplIlgnarCneni,  lll>. 

at,  MlhtCiiMlnl.teO.:  M  IVmra,I<l.  I  Oeim,  Barlalmmn,  of  UAIno,  irchllecl. 

(t  Ihi  |j.t<-iv.,  «B. ,  «  Lorrta.  IX,  133.  i  Iglh  unturr,  117. 

M  rnucU.  Hilui  L  u  Iflcna,  U9T. ;  al  Uie     .  (MmKuhs,  or  UiUno,  piinWr,  of  (hi 

Vulain.  iiS.  Umbrtu   Kbool.   d.  liSl.  vs.  lly.  ItT, 
(rf Snilptncr  .ptibltc)  it  Ihe  CipllDl.  193. ;  iSS. 

Df>piiulelinltn«n[-(1an>{(l*l.  Lj|Mirl*)! 

Oll,I.M,  hmn  MjPOEOnnhiln},  tSS. 

lUtiK  Uarnollui,  IiIji  (Nilbi^cB,  10§. 
OtlI«H>.Tl1ljigi>a(,  lis. 
OiltMl.hiliiioniniiiotbTDiTmBila,  38. 
O^^.  «t  AlKoretV  u  ItDlo^i,  S7, 

rutl  or  9.  cirlo  BonoDiH  rnp^iD|  it, 

GuMliBt,  FruKOco  Oori.  Itlati  of  AlBori, 

OmiMI,  Gaelima,  Mlnter  and  MKrnrcr,  of 
lbs  Hoioanw  idioci!,  b.  IT;M.  il.tSUf,  flU.  (>6. 
OuMhilfa,  CiMel,  villnie  ■»!  pa|ial  pibiH 

0«»B)>C  Cud.,  tall  rcHarctaH  at  Tarqutnll, 

OorMrf.  LarfnMo,  jtiota,  of  ihe  BologrcK 

I      .1 k^  pypii  oJlTiiip^  Upjj^,  J.  i5Bt, 

the  VllS''i'  EnV,  «1  lltoll.  SW?!' 
or  ine  Y.lli  PamfiU-Doiia,  539.    Sic  flo- 

OoRt'iUs. ^Mnwfi  Tiiin  da.'yAtiUi.of  XXie 

lUplloe]  dT  Ferrara,"  called  ■■  GaTOlkla," 

varta.  I^Ii,  ]«,  IT,  IS,  19.  511. 139.  4SEi' 
W^WI,  Mil,  5(13,  503.  H7,  He,  509.  »l 4. 
SW:    Hlnoaib.17. 
■" "  '  '^u^MrrtorMlcenla.pAldter,  fl. 

He  eel<4irated  brlgnnil.  IS8. 


[tv,  Foocodl  LcgiKi 


.l>*e.S4R;— FiKif/CM- 

tenlJiiT  fortDiEioM  and  Tolciaiuc  qnifar- 
incH,    193.   COl.   SH.       S«    Foufl    Bg. 

Gurgt.  St.,  MS.  Lim  or,  irilh  mlnlalBrci 

h)  OIOUO,  3(13. 
George  tV-.  kiog  of  EtiirljinO,  hii  preApau 

of  cuu  from  Ibc  ETgin  and  feiieUu 

marble,  to  Hm  VII,.  497,    Mh  punrail 

by  Sir  Thomai  Lawreiiee,  498. 
Onipert  andNetwerB,  Ibc  Auiliian  gcnrrili, 

(heir  defeat  of  Hunt,  a(  ForUia]iopiill, 

Ocrad'Adda,  battle  of.  lia 
Oerdll.  CBrdioal,  hli  (omb.  413. 

Oertnai]/,  emperori  of,   chtoiifilogical  liil 

1  orthe,  Peiaro,  117. 
.  tea,  painter,  of  (bo  Bolng- 

ft,  3e.Bg,aiS!69,7a73.so.'2Bi.  ' 


INDEX. 


649 


school,    d.  1660,  132,   133.  169.  417.  500. 
503.  508,  509.  510.  518. 

Ghetto,  the  Jewish  quarler,  at  Ancona, 
126. ;  Ferrara,  14  ;  Rome,  895. 

GAi-zzi,  Pierleone^  painter  of  the  Roman 
school,  b.  1074,  d.  1755,  558. 

Ghibelines  defeated  by  the  Guelphs  at  Foss- 
alta,  28. ;  utterly  overthrow  the  Guelphs 
and  Florentines  at  Monte  Aperto,  206. ; 
overthrow  the  Guelphs  and  Romans  at 
Tusculum,  558. ;  their  stronghold  at  Pales, 
trina  captured  and  destroyed  by  Benedict 
VIIL,  577.  Emblems  of  Ghibcline  cities 
on  facade  of  the  cathedral  of  Siena,  207, 
S208. ;  on  facade  of  Pal  Comunale,  at 
PeruRia,  259. 

Chiberti^  Lorenzo,  Florentine  sculptor,  d. 
1455. ;  113.  210.    His  bu>it,  487. 

Ohino  di  Tacco,  the  robber-knight;  his 
castle  at  Radicofani,  219. 

Ghirlandnio,  or  Ghirlandajo,  DomenieOt 
painter  of  the  Florentine  school,  b.  1451, 
d.  1495,  113.  200.  802.  444.  506,  His 
bust,  488. 

Giacomo,  S.,  church  of,  (Maggiwe,)  Bo- 
logna, 51. 

— ,  hospitals  of,  at  Rome,  527. 

Qiacomo  di  Viierho^  Lorenzo  di,  painter  of 
the  Roman  school,  fl.  14Ga  ;  226L 

^— ,  Maestro,  of  Florence,  worker  in 
tarsia,  145. 

Giannicola,  of  Perugia,  painter  of  the  Urn- 
brian  school,  pupil  of  Perugino,  d.  1540, 
161.  253,  254.  255. 258.  261. 

Gibbon,  the  historian,  conceives  the  idea  of 
ti)e  *<  Decline  and  Fall "  in  the  church  of 
Ara  Copli,  416.  His  remarks  on  the  ruin 
of  the  Coliseum  by  the  Famese  princes, 
610. ;  on  the  S|Mida  Pomiiey,  517. 

Gibson,  John^  R.  A.,  living  English  sculptor 
at  Rome,  521. 

GiUef,  Fierre,  the  French  traveller;  his 
tomb,  424. 

Qimignani,  GiacbfUo^  of  Pistoja,  painter  of  the 
Roman  school,  b.  1611,  d.  1681, 257.402. 572. 

Giordano,  Luca,  painter  of  the  Neapolitan 
school,  b.  163-2,  d.  1703,  97.  537. 

Ciorgetti\  Antonio,  sculptor,  17th  century, 
pupil  of  Bernini,  408. 

Oinrijio,  S.,  churches  of,  at  Bologna,  53. ; 
Ferriira,  18. ;  Rome,  420. ;  Siena,  211. 

Giorgio,  Francesco  di,  of  Siena,  sculptor, 
15th  century;  145.  807.  214.  His  MSS. 
and  drawings  on  architecture  and  engi- 
neering, 215. 

Ciorgione  {Giorgio  Barbarelii),  painter  of 
the  Venetian  school,  d.  1511,  508.  506. 
508.  5ia  535. 

Giotto  {di  nondone),  painter  of  the  Floren- 
tine school,  b.  1276,  d.  I3S7,  18L  33.71.; 
his  four  Evangelists  at  Ravenna,  90. ;  his 
frescoes  executed  for  the  Polenta  family, 
ib.  93.  if}.  \56.  211.  (?) ;  his  fVescoes  at 
Assisi,  2rj6.  268.  The  Navicella  of  St. 
Peter's,  364.  39.1 ;  portrait  oT  Benedict 
VI II..  the  last  fragment  of  his  frescoes  in 
St.  John  Latcran,  401.  His  design  for  the 
tomb  of  the  .Savelli.  in  Ara  Coelt,  413.  421. 
427.    His  bust.  47& 

Giottino  (Tommaso  di  Sti^fano),  grandson 
of  Giotto,  painter  and  sculptor,  b.  14/7, 
d.  1511,267. 

Giovanni,  S.,   diurclies  of,  at  Bologna,  in 
Monte,  53.:    Cittd  di  Casteilo,   Battisto, 
153. ;  Decollato,  15a ;  Pesaro,  de*  Rifor- 
Cent.  It. 


mati,.117. ;  Ravenna,  Battista,  90. ;  E%'an- 
gelista,  90. ;  m  Fonte,  87.  j  Recanati  135. ; 
Rome,  Crysogono,  421. ;  Decollato,  421. ; 

.  de*  Florentini,  421. ;  Laterano,  399.  ; 
Siena,  Battista,  now  the  Baptistery,  210. ; 
Spoieto,  273. ;  Urbino,  14a  j  Volterra,  199. 

Giovanni  e  Paolo,  church  of,  at  Rome,  421. 

Giovanni,  San,  town  of,  birthplace  of  Ma- 
saccio,  236. 

Giovanni  di  S.  Giovanni  See  San  GiO' 
vanni. 

Giovannino,  S.,  church  of,  at  Siena,  211. 

Giovenello.    See  Gattapone. 

Giraldi  Lilio  Gregorio,  the  mythologist,  his 
tomb,  15.  18. 

Girandcda,  the  celebrated  fireworks  at  the 
castle  of  St.  Angclo,  368. 

Giraud  Palace,  at  Rome,  518. 

Girolamo,  S.,  churches  of,  at  ForlL  108.  : 
Rimini,  lia  -»  . 

Girometti,  first  living  artist  in  pietra-dura, 
29S. ;  his  cameos  in  the  Vatican,  483. 

Giulia  Stemma,  her  monument,  543. 

Giuliana,  S.,  church  of,  Perusia,  256. 

Giuliano,  S..  churches  of,  at  Macerata,  135. ; 
Rimini,  113. ;  Spoieto  aionte  Luco),  275u 

Giulio  Romano  {Qiulio  Pippi),  painter  and 
architect,  of  the  Romav  school,  b.  1492, 
d.  1546,  36.  46.  69.  115.  273.  322.  Em- 
ployed  in  the  rebuilding  of  St  Peter's, 
382.  393.  426.  489.  43a  441.447.453.454. 
457.  490,  491 .  498.  508, 50a  505,  506, 507  (?\ 
506.  511,  518.  516.  538.  556.    His  bust,  488. 

Giunta  da  Pisa.    See  Pisa. 

Giuseppe,  S.,  churches  of,  at  Rome  (de* 
Falcgnami),  422. ;  Siena  (oratory),  212. ; 
Urbino,  14& 

Giustiniani  fhmily  — their  palace  at  Rome, 
513. ;  Cardinal,  rebuilds  Sta.  Prisca,  438. 

GiusTiNO,  SAN^wn  of,  148.  157. 

Gladiator,  the  Dying,  in  the  Capitol,  496. 

Glossators  of  Bologna,  their  diflUsion  of  the 
Roman  law  throughout  Europe,  37. 

Godo,  village  of,  79.  83. 

Gtolden  Rose,  consecration  of  the,  405. 

Goldoni,  the  dramatist,  his  bust,  488. 

Gonsalvus.  Card.,  his  Gothic  tomb,  13th  cen- 
tury, 405. 

Goncaga,  S.  Lodovico,  his  tomb,  483. 

,  Card.,  and  Card.  Corsi  repair  and  dedi* 

cate  the  tomb  of  Dante,  95. 

— ^,  general  of  Clement  VII.,  his  treache. 
rous  seizure  of  Ancona,  183. 

— -,  Leonora,  wife  of  Francesco  Maria  T., 
Duke  of  Urbino,  herviliaof  Imperiale,  117. 

Gordian,  the  emperor,  his  villa  on  the  Via 
Gabina,  583. 

Oori,  the  archaeologist,  on  the  Eugubian 
Tables,  162.  On  the  Etruscan  antiquities  of 
Volterra,  197.  On  the  Roman  Columbaria, 
365. 

Gospels,  MSa  of  the :  -~  in  Armenian,  12th 
century,  39. ;  in  Greek,  8th  or  9th  century, 
with  miniatures,  815. ;  in  Greek,  12th  cen- 
tury, 484.;  in  Syriac,  7th  century,  411.; 
Codex  of  St.  Luxe  in  Italian,  written  on 
papyrus  in  gilt  letters,  6th  century,  254. 

Gothic  (Italian-Gothic)  architecture,  exam- 
ples of:  —  at  Ancona,  cathedral,  churches. 
Loggia  de*  Mercanti.  125,  l2Si.',^Arezxo, 
cathedral,  S.  M.  dclla  Pieve,  £38.;  Frater. 
nit&,  2¥i.  \^  Assisi,  Sagro  Convento.  i3th 
centurv,  265,  266. ;  &  Chiara,  Cathedral, 
869. ;  Su  Pietro,  269. ;  —  Bologna,  S.  Petro. 
nio,  43,  41;  S.  Giacomo,  51.;  Foro  dcT 

F  r 


OrHVM.  alhtfnl,   i 
___  If  C»d.Dorii.«9.| 
)  ihotvty  at  ft.  AiTgilo, 
_  tut  windDW  DC  S.  Dmnni. — 
H  PMh  S.  KmUno,  SiS-iB.  O 
■"      "-.1.  dcUm  I«M,  aST-i  P. 
I  emiinr.    Ph.  Oonrnn 


>i  ;  firiilT.  Le.  TillifeDr.  I'M. 
.      Gt^ipirw,  eon,  M,  of  SieiB    MuJirtoT.  1W 

•■  I  Or*orlo.  s.,([huwhei  of:— al  BdlcgiinS 
GrrcorloDnll,  huh  of  Ostli  in  the  Mho 
aiTf.  olin  Rbum  bj  Gngmr  IV,  set 
Grmrr,  s.,  Nulnimn,  MS.  CH>y  af  hUl 
mllLei.  llth  cBnlBcr,  iS4.     Hit  lonb,  a 

biwtury,  iil.    Hl»  Virion  on  ihe  Tomt  . 
...  __        _        .    _  idtmU 


m  S.  j|f«t)iiti,41L  ;  tmintat  m  AnCceli, 
:n4.|    K  H.  Sopn  Mlixm,  «7.;— Sun 

^ - — -  "is.,_8ini»,  cUhalnl, 

O.i  8.  DaB«ilciii,illl.i 
»  (urn  catti).  114.; 
i>  iHvn,  sit.;  hdipUld,  «1S.j_ 
dB,  cuhotnl.  S.  Dmncnlso,  B.  Cln- 
il.  B.  FMtto (LonbanI},  XlS-i—Subi. 


IW.;  CKlhidniandehDRtw,  lin— 1S9, 
OoUikking^  EHt,chnino)ogi»]  IM  df,  ml. 

Oell,  Tfing  Bniillih  tculplnr  nl  Bomi,  IiSi. 
Gox-mnii^Dt  of  IHc    P>l>al    SUId.  tI.  ;    of 


Onngc  d'  Arqulen.  dc  li.  Cardinal,  illed  at 

Giano,   Uonte  del.   wpulchrat   lunului   in 
whioTi  the  5amptaaxu«  {if  (hn  Canitol  nbd 

Guul  Palm,  nC  Bolorni,  Bi, 

uia.li™.  Etrmcsdcllyof,  the  pgrl'of  Th- 


VII.,  pope  (HlUelntid},  mu  oCU 

a>nHiitTiin,437.    H&i  birth  place,  00. 


H  Pg«.  M 


.....  'U  K^ 


giaie.  W3.|   en 
S.  M.dlTiHl.l 


sries. ...._ 

X 1 1,,  popg,  bii  mDnuiaent,  IS*. 

xni.,   pi^  {Buancampasnl^  Hi* 

fbrmnarihe  nlendar,  nlis  Bologiula 
•rchblihoMic,30,i  urcngLhaii  the  AR 

— -  "---i..'l7S,l    rMlorc  S.  M.  tbi- 
eMaUidtei   tba  CndMl) 

biihlt'ohunhorii.X.i 

iWdUhea  Uie  CadeKe 

■rin,  IM.ibegliia  (h>  buOdtatiit 
nUBi^o,  E11.I  (luildn  CollHlaRiK 
»kiIluUdiUanlcPonlOt5f&    Hit 


-XiV„  ixipe  (Sfiondati),  holdi  tfae  eonDi- 

anoc  of  ZigaralcL  tc  — '--  -■■-'  ""■— - 

8.1    Hia  lomb,  aw. 

-XV..  iMpe  (Ludoiisi).  foundei  oC  lbs 

'ropuanda.  G«k     an  vm\  4S%. 

■  XVI.,  jme   tCapp»lll 


Fabrli.  177.    Hia  tomb,  SS 


d'orludo  Bt  Sulii,  iM;  of  Prihi- 

Ci>ruiilCartani.SM:  Sergudl  i[  Cimu- 

Gntla  Vuiunc,  luUcrnneu  cbmpel  cf  SI. 

OiKliDdio,  Monle,  on  the  Luke  of  Tbrui- 

m«Be  [llaDin  CoitonciiKt),  VM. 
OuiuoTiDiHO,  loi.n6f(T.dlnuni),UI. 
GnaUa,  Uiuito  H,  painter,  of  ttaa  Umbiun 

•cboA,  S.  M7U,  i^Twa 
Ouirliil  Ihn  poet,  HS.  of  hit  -  Putcs  FMo," 

to.  HliporlrUl^ie.  Hiihouie,!!. 
^-^ ,  ALcinndro,  hu  l^iu  enlgina,  16. 
,  OlimbiillliU,  printer  oT  Onek  buoki, 

■ltd  muter  of  AMui.  w  Fgrrar*.  «& 
OunmnccL  Uontl^DMo  Mntio,  one  of  Ui« 

the  Bnucum  iiid  librur  oT  VoUon,  1S6, 

Omi'ioicil;  or(]|Uvl'um),  lai.  lai. 


CurreAu  ((ita^ncrm  AirUirf],  painter. 

or  Iba  BologncH  •ebool.  h,  lUg,  d.  leW, 
.    hia  Urthiiliice,  3S.    Uia  houao  H  CaUD, 

£S,  !«.    lliTliouH  u  Bologna,  £7.    IIU 

■Foriu,  19. as,  E6. 3i.  »  41. isiii. s&, m. 
eo,  Gi.  (-A  ej.  M.  lie,  lua  iia.  no.  iia. 

136.   03.  91S.  iM.  U;7.  Ml,  «U.  41L  tiL 
UT.1H.    TliePeraianilb;l,4<II).  B.Fi!lrD- 

niua,  t9i.eua.Mij.  sisa,aA,!icn,  sue, ma 

Wi^lS,  516.  iia    The  Aurora,  517,  te 

Oiitcci«i>,  'lliQ''citiioleM,  on  I^d''B^roo't 

Ouidi  tandlv.  or  Vollern,  IR9. ;— Alnuudra, 

"the   llallm   Pindar?'  bit    tomb,    IM. 

;    Jaeopo,  bUhop  of  Peona,  pu|Ai  and  dipio- 

■nallGtccrcuiirorUuiixUnlini,  tail  Hnli, 

C»Ut,'Vommkti,  Rcoiaii  tculjitar,  17tb  on- 

CWifa  'itrm.  palmer,  orthellalognnc  ichgal. 
b.  157.1.  ,1.  i«s  a;.  M.  3i,S.  M.  t7.  t«, 

49.    -1    T    yi,  fa  6i^,  Sfi.  BS.  7i  to.  97. 


d.  IlKbiirt,  Ihe  Norman  chief,  burnt 

,  Si'},  i  roiiu  leal)  of  Aupittui,  Sjll. 
t,  Ha,  ImeDbH  of  miuical  iioulion, 


OuitaTut  AdoVhut.  hi 
prBscntn]    bj   Queer 

Gu)  de  MonlAut.  Ikui 


it  of  Chirlct  of 


1   Borne:  — 


bulldi  the  Ant  <EI1ui,  «H.  3IS.  Hit 
mauaoleuin,  SSO,  IJGI.  Hie  tempi*  of 
Vebiu  m  Bone  (from  bit  own  detlioi). 
39S.  Hit  celcbnttd  buit  In  Villa  AlSanl, 
S3&  HU  villa  aI'nvidi,U4.  HitTJIIaat 
Palntriiia,  5tr 


HiUioflbeCi 
Bronnt,  491. 
49R.I  orUiel 


•  »yii 


—  Hall  of  the 

Dg  GlaillatoT. 


II,  l^!ior'^e°Gr« 


tbe  Ditcobcdui,  47 

■M.IHS. 

in  St^oleUum,' S7K 


the  blood,  (ludia    under  Falxlelui  ab 
Aoquaptniianle  at  Padua,  iK. 

Hanksond,  Sft  Jolin,  the  Engliih  condmli- 

Ecn'iurf ;  bli  capture  and  lick  or  Faeoia, 


409.    Hn  tomb,  SSD.    H«  porphyry  lar- 

cai4uuio%  473. 
Kelrii  Hiciua,  elti  otUU  Pictnl,  dealrorcd 

bjr  AUric,  lit.  1&. 
Henrr  11.  of  Baiaria,  Emperor  oT  Italy,  bla 

cettlon  oflheUuehjr  of  Bcnnenio  lo  L» 


nnp«rot  of  Italy,  gn 


if  llalT, 


i>'l>j"8uy 


. —  1V?|T!'^  al  y- 


*^^,  pTinep.  brother  of  llciir 

VI.,  kinc  of  KngliKl.  hli  pietent  til 

Ibe  ikull  of  S(.  Anna  to  U.  AlucraaU  of 


.1    llologl...  65. 


I  ttff  tr  Ui«  uow,  Willi  uuifranh 

BBMIi  WV  itoirentflcn  lutBtrJiiib  Mtm 
i-kiiM  B^Tn,4H.  Aultflnphlctlcrla 
b*  Oduu  raWhic  itnioU  Collier,  SX. 

Mhi*,  llM  EMpiTDr,  Inhibiu  lli«  ntua 
'tlwCmM  )B  the  Tih  centurr,  Ml,  SS3. 


A  ni.    Hli  boo):!  i 
wVirdliil'ltie  i?to' 


itWe  oT  Bail^  palnln,  ISIh 

nitlica  LltH-icr! 
ofVdl,'5BB.    HI.  lomb, 

It  Rjvcmu,  S4- ;  rtpaln 


of  &  Lonnni,  4U7. 

m  the  -- 
.Dmbardcl' 


ofOBliil,58*.:onMunitli 
on  Die  chuouorPnnei 


Hnrae,  Oie  bmnio,  o(  the  Caiiilol.  43!. 


om.inmlinnitnlT).  81S.  i— ■, 

IlinidH,  French  leulpCnr,  0. 17ET.   Bimte^- 

fantm)  lUlue  oT  S,  Brumv  4SS. 
Ilouin  of  rnniTliDble  penoru:  — Aiiotto, 

21.:  B«Tnfumi.l!l*.[  Beriiinl,  aa.i  Boc- 

Slma.  gl*.  I  Pielro  da  Connm,  ms.t  S. 
Fniuucaif'ABlii.esS.inuaclna.tS.ST.i 
Pitlto  IMnigton,   9BI.)    Frtncch,  ML; 

PpuMio.  5ia.  (  Ripbeei.  i»e.  sia  i  tanti, 

5I(i.iBoB<al.B8.;Sw«nhc<nitlieiiiIaul. 
S19.|   VubtI,  »l.  1   I&niclc  daVoUem, 


It  Alluno,  *7S.  57a 

in,  SAiffinfAi,  iwliilcT  of  the  Umbituiedtaol, 

B.  1530, 161. 
ld»  fluT    now  the  Idlcp,  10*. 
IgnittiB,  St.,  hit  natijnsnm  in  the  CoUieum, 

339.     Churchu  M  \a.  IitnDIla)  M  Boat, 

JM.  1  .1  Vllertto,  SW.     HwUmfcMO. 
lm»luiii,  VmUltaeitjat.  now  Oiil>bii>,UU 
ITIictibleiifWeitchaniiin  tbcUullal,U3; 
lltumiutlaiu  QfSt  Peter'.,  an.^ 
Im/tqff",  Swbt  ■eulplor,  nt  Robe,  fifft. 
Imola,  c11»  orcForani  ComcUi).  IM. 

ktjt  of,  cgptored  by  Ibe  BalanoR 

to  Bavenni,  SB. 

ItKnU.lTmBcriitaJatFnmcucdl.p^tmBl 

IheBologneie  Khool,  pupil  of  Ffaiicl«,«, 

3S10.  SI.  3S.  40.  BB.  W.  av  60.  TO,  71.73. 37. 

104,  lis,  lOB.  139.  KLOji 
Impeiijilr,  Ihe  iIIIr  of  Ihe  Duks  of  UiMdo, 

neur  Peiuo,  117. 
TnpoRta,  L',  poM  Mdtion,  flSB. 
Inroninol.,  L',  vlUsgc  tad  churcli  of  S. 

I  century,  pbpU 

II  m  d'AaU). 

^sooijPmfl  of 


Ingrfno,  i'  [Andi 

Inslilmini,  CiT.,  . 
at  Bslogra,  39, 


^li"7.  iiniiin  tl«  Turki,  198. 
dre,  celeBnted  cco^apber  vk 

niiitcl  of  tbe  modern  Fnneli  nl 


h  century  in  S.  M.  to 
3,  4».    Enleclaii 


(Tor  de" 

IV.,  pope,  (FlcKhi),  rteoven  IUtishh 

riom    Fredeiiek  IL.  Be.      Caafea    An 


"ilk  of  P^u  (J. '™.  S";  «ec«  the         m'lhWch  ""^Mlut  "sis^lTlT^vm- 

Jolia  LMann, 'snTiwIku'  r«™li"flH,  TiSt, 468* 
tlt.niranBttVUIiiI>ninil'D«rii(oO»miilA  :  lBi,townor((E>lior  (Eilun),  I«. 
HidifalclilBl,  bli  liilarJB-lH  ind  mlitreu,  |  Jcwi  In  Ih>  IVpil  SWci,  il. ;  >t  Anconi, 
-       .  .-              -  -            -  ,jj_ ,    Fg,„„_  ,4  J     Hom,    jys^  .    ,(,„j 

buriil-jtnHind,  313.  i  conopcild  to  pay  a 
ttx  to  S,  Angeto  \n  PeichrrlL  41^ 
Join.  Popf,  IkUe  of,  Mt  at  Kit  by  ■  medal  of 

JomniiB.  queen  of  Aragon,  her  portralf^  S09- 
John,  St,,  iubpo»dKenGoriii(  nurtrfUoiiL 

303. 
Lilenn,  Ihc  flm  bullin  of  Rome,  399. 

°A°l.ilTJ7Sii  centutjTwS         "  *™' 

VIII.,  nopr,  hU  nurtilc  loclanite   tt 

ttitOffirjallt.  C\cmniiUl^hetatmri,tttL 


oolillBiis  Htd  Cutro 
mt,  tL  i  JMron  cltj  of  Culro,  | 
uK  bjr  GBidB  lb*  Lucifn  of  bU 
of  ihi!  Archingel  HichuL  41T. 
in  ttilw,  489.  Hi!  ponriutj  by 
I.  SU8,5in.    H>itoinb,tia  I 

|H>i>e    (OdemLchi).    hi>    toinb, 

pope     (Plgnatolll),    completa 


HlnomJLasl. 

—  xuu  role  (Cam),  bi 

or    l-ri^li  il«'   Monti,  37 
391. 


lerow.  147. ; '  koocliUone! 


Iildoie.  SL,  US.  of  hli  "  EiimolwlH,"  of 

IilL  temple  of,  at  Bdofiu,  41.42. 

liUoilo^ho'hbrr.  Ml. 

Iiola  d-  Arl.no,  HJ-JW. ;    ni«ntinL«a.  i 

xiS^n^iMr"  mTv^oiK,  on  Ilia 
Uka  of  Vhrulrocne,  K4tl.  ;  Mirtuia.oo 
the  Idkc  of  SaUcna,  itf.  i  iSacia,  at  UHia, 

iK^e  NaUota  (Sollatan),  Ma. 


Ucniente<9th 


laXadutloora. 


tlon  al  IMogi 
i^lTlngofNlSl 


XIIll.,  pope  (Coin),  brflna 

orgt.ADge1o,44i 

parcliment  tcrvll  of  7 

luUlea  of 'st.  PtlaX  385. 

lullao  aquediici  at  Home,  3^ 
lullan.llia  cmpecDt.hU  mafic«tw 
lulian,  the  ceMiratod  p)et:e  el 

An■Bln^■  itatue  of  Juliiit  II.,  Il' 

kigna,  19. ;  lili  calcbrWd  lUtua  by  ~K. 
An^lo  ilntrofcd  by  the  Bolo^lwu,  46.  l 
rriaiiu  lUienna  liiT  the   Cliuien,   and 

hli  i^Vd^f^  br  liMUMi'^T^x.  m! 


gba.  Johann,  of  Bmutlt,  (oldmillh.  ITlh 


I,  hit  pnRrall  b;  Ouliln,  511. 

a.  lfiUU,'llB.  131.  lit.  '  ' 

JacBmau  ^  fWui  (Olti 
painter,  i.  I5I3.J53I.  JUS, 
Jtieirmt,  painter   of  the  Flmcnimo   acpDW 
Jaamo  da  Fireioft  painter,  14th  century 
JacapQ,  Pklre  tni  nmfaif/.  palntertof  Ihi 

JaHcnliH,  hia  iwrtralt  by  iltlan,  H». 
Janui  (luadrifrcKU.  arch  of.  at  Borne,  318. 


Una  Chapel,  4H.  I  brlnp  Raphaello  Horn* 
Is  paint  the  Sluic,  443.;  purcbaaea  (whll* 
Card,  della  Itoycre)  the  vipelLo  Ik-lveden 


"Si'siS 


twrt^  ii>*r,  IT.  .  .iBt.ll!,i  Hwiw.  Ait*lgl»ij|1.  Wit 


,  lOT.    '"  "  ■" 
UUIaro.  A.  (Ulii 


TIMnMii  ktorcnnli  •(  Ocot 


Iv*.  .W  ji 


VwhLttaU>t«aM.l' 
rmcH  Hufptor.  i;t(i  M 

.|1Uh  MbM,  ITIH  « 
•    erf    £•     MblHM 


K.,m«l^'  tMtct),  »«■•••«'  "UK 


Lnttni.  Ilia,  Ri<k«uH'ia»l|«vr,  t.  XM, 

r> «-  tqiina,  isa,       j;,N^.  Fx  nnsp*.  —iiiM  °(ti>*  n«wnni» 


MHlkct>,  nylon'  oUi*  '      ntuph  b;  n>Hiiin.«l 
KtiiK  liani  wkl^  Okt        kIimI.T  1M& 


MMI*  ■■rkt.-i 


r>ll.   1  IM  Mpfw/Mi  M<  « 


-a  ■*-**■  ■"—  -"-^  ■-  ■-* 

— ^  bxHO.  If  CWfeaMMMlM  tM  bM 

IJ>la.  wMk  W  AWMM,  «■<  ■ltt»i«H. 
rkavi'ImlJMnl.*^ 

.  ,-,. ^,-~ or"rfmtal.l*.i«nwrh«»l(M]Bi«, 

L>  Mwiiti.  r.i.  I   iwiMt  lilt  Mllni  It  AM.  I  ni  nw  Oih4*  e«  tMffil  nwmlM 

■Mum  il  ilM   VHina,  4U.i   tilwni  MM   buiMn  iT  AteM.   Mlt   <*>   th* 

MWHM  <•!  Dm  (iMiol,  W.  I  kki  c9>  rounuio  >r  Wm>.  S;«.  i  «  dw  Utrnm. 

knM<«Hnia(BaBif««iMMIai,l.t  kw  (iw  t-nvK  W  i>>«  Ik*  rtU  aT  Lit* 

•sih,  aq.  Manii^  snj  t^  •>'  D«ui  af  %t*n. 

.^Aa«un.l>MKa->H*KM>|.  MiiM  lh>  Ballli  o(  TktiHniM^  0*1 

L(— l.tWiiw,  hU  UrlhTlH^  lM.-m  mttvOMh  tl  ftnm  ItodHika.  mi 

L«l*>(r»«iw«H«Ull.MU  Itoii^  Uh  hiiimHIii  a/ iW  UW  Onkikn. 

— '  —  mw  Uf  HkiM  Omu,  (M.  Dm,  UK 

tr-  fiBHtB  ••««»•*.  «  n«  Ub«.UM.)nM*iM*i  akMkm 

iTMM^l«.|    ■     -|   ?■   II'  tir»l  nTnoiTM-i  M  Ito—  Mim-^.f  - 
Ml  [III  TMInM,  m,                            ;   lA&(ni(l)ll  %n<B'.TW. 


m 


MS. i  Ihrariintn*,  SK- 

•IDbcfUnl  Taltee,  at  Bnlaana,    noir  L 

Runuul,  Tu.;  Bulo  Imclda  Lambeitll 

■    79,  so.  S3.  lOL  10 


Ci»iiuftn>.  !i7E.  i  GtOta,  SK. ;  Vbf. 
ID.  ess.  :    Knni,  57t.  ;    dl   "brtuO, 
'■■'      ■■'  Viea,  S3*. 


o«c  painter.  SSI.  61i 

IWdrn,  I'lareBtlDC  aculptoF.  d.  t^ 

d.  taTa.3£I3S.1H 


Irlhidace.  1S9. 


joasorf.  ._., 

'aaaa,  VcHotian  Kulptot  u 
ijinic,  viuji  u  ^n^o,  noar  Vilerbo,  3*1. 

Unuriuni.  Latin  i«l>  of,  'ii 
Tlnla,  Sla. 

Lauf,  Abtb  IjjW,  the 
■ID  Italian  art,  Ms  birthplace.  J33. :  mi 
oliKrtatioiu  OD  tiie  EugutAaa  T4blei^  lA  \ 
OD  iht- lehvol  ori^mH,  il.  -,  nniheftSL 

h^ 

,  «■;"*■■ 

...,.  <fil.i   SF&it  Conca,  4S3.1  J«M»? 

t^lipl.  a. :  nelro  da  Conima,  tlTiJli 

W- 1  GretnfiD^,  17-  ■  BaldBUaTA  CnOL 
DaiMniidiliii^  119.  )W.  4».flBl;' 
DdhI.  11;  Fo.nH«™  F ■-'='^- 

OaBloidl,  laXi  Gal 

(iiiiilo — ,    .„  _  _ 

ins.i    I.utI,  414.  [  ;CBtlo  rf.raiu,  j 
MdiHiD  rli  FarlL  108.1  HichadAH 
43J.445.;  MDUIBri.  41^-1  Muiitbb^ 
P>n>Uni,IS.i  Baldan.  PiiTURl. SlTc Mk' 
rid  Pi«in».aB.  43S.:  [hePntamUfUl) 
Baphnel,  447.   451.  (Sfl.;    RMWallj,.  ^I 
"-' " -    ■"— IjMii 


nionela,  4l6.j  SanK  dl  Tllo,  15*,!  UUk 

(bmuo,  439, 1  Luca  Signotilii,  «&;». 

rinodi.|Viipi,«4.|  ViiMri,4il.iI>MlMfc. 

da  Volterm  441.  i  (he  Zilccart,  at  6UL  ' 
LaocDon.  the.  Df  Lhe  Vatican,  4^. 
IdaA,   GiUMio.  of  Cagli,  painter,  b.  ITSk- 

cfTrnfi.  140..  ^• 

Lapo,  Jncapo  dt,  colWd  aUo  Jatom  7to^u£fft 

Gerniln   archllmt,  H.  lasl,  «nt  «j  Fib- 


Latin  CoiMentlt 


.'S.HitalhNiTUwIl^fniind*- 

Lowl«,.«S.  i  -—• " - 


t  Suplmu,  ^.  I 


s 


01. 

X,  lie.*  ws, 

UpaliH,  ili:"  Piu^lin  •nilquiT, 
EuRuUaD  TiUa,  in.  1  on  tlkt  F 
AlphilKI  In  Uie  VUlcu,  ns. 


hit  bitih^Mce,  lie.*  vs. 

KO  Mtria  II,  ddla  Hnm, 


priiillnipnu  in  TuKonv  (Ifil),  IM. 
iJoK  DahaaKo.    See  Oihutta' 
Uy\l.  wife  or  Aucultiu,  and  inoUKT  or  Tl- 
beiiui.  Ii«r  tjuil>l-|>l*«,  SK,     CdIudKm. 
TlumoriwrLlbenUSI!^ 
liiT.'m  t)i*T«nplcorXt»liii>lui,3E4. 1  on 
(hc'illuatlonorA1liiilA«|ii,5«.;  eu  thn 
An  Abuii  It  FiHi,  Wt.  I  an  the  dtftwt 
of  A(dnibi1,  iJl.  i  on  the  Ooaca  Mulma, 
SI!§L  i  on  lbs  Oncla  or  IMiilil  rcHwclln* 
the  EmlMR  or  Alluno.  HH. ;   on  the 
Ki>unUinorE(ctla,3;I.i  m  the  MamiT. 
line  PHiooi,  Xt.;  on  thi-  illF  at  I^r 
RniUui,  SIS.  1    on  the  Dnlli  i>rS)rphaT, 


Ladfb^  at  Hiane,  3ta. 


Xjian  XMU  or  llalT.  IM  MMIiutnrr.  £ 
Ki.  MiMMn  «  AwMO,  »U§.  1 

nI  liliM>  M'  ll*lT,  cbrnni>1r>al»l  i 


.>n.  131.  IK 

nrM,  neuu  HcbliKt,    ITih 
....  MO.  «». 

..HulMiir.  t.lSK.  IB.  13,  It.  47.  fU.  I 
.M, ».  G*.  (a.  ei  fil 

&W.^.     MililHH    ■rchitfCl  and  ; 
ilKor,  aratalucl  uI  Hllui  cUbidraJ,  B, 


VnwtiHi  (rchlttct  uid  i 


ImbIJ.  7.WS,  or  Riicniiji,  pilnirr,  of  U 
BdnenMc  Khool,  b.isn,  d.UMi^  17.0 
91,  H.  0!.  sn. 

^— ,  Ai^^rfl,  daughter  of  Luca,  palntv 


LancluSur.,  605. 

,  PMrn.  pUiter,  nT  Hie  Stenni?  icIidoI, 

brmber  or  Ambrujiia,  13 J7— 131%  Wfi.  tlU. 

/juvkuHd,  JUirlinc,  or  /.orrno  L«M,  Flo- 
Tnitliineul(ilo(,  11.  l«n_lStl,  «D. 


I^ownio  3,  churchnnf.  it  Penigi.,  3SS.; 
at  Hoini!,  Bulllcn,  W7. !  Ln  Duduu,  «S3.  J 

brrnn^hDol,  0,147^— ]flSl.4aS.*Sa. 

Larium,  I.itlu  eil]' of,  nan  Culetdl  Guldo, 

WO. 
Lolta,   Lormi,  \ain\er  ot  the  V«nvliAU 

J>iult.  s.  ^France,' «  pligrli 


inr;_B> 

OB-  s  i_),  aa  -.  Rddif.  *Sa.  _  . 

LiHsii,iinUwiria*Dr  Bamo  rrom  thcAm*' 

LucAna  Pontv,  nJeljr'lv<1  bridge  vnd  la 

LuccdId.  u«n   oC    dHUofed    by  Nan 

Lurli,S..Fhvrcfam>r,atBolos>i'.S4.i  Sinii 

LudpiJind,  vlllBie  of,  H^ 

iJlcretllU  Map>'',''Dm>"HoRt<:''G(!Mn),  ITT. 

LuealLui,  villa  ud  lamb  of,  at  FnBill, 

LuEu^,    the  Elruwsii  name  of  TuBid. 
Riiu  Prlimu,  ■ftorwaids  Ihf  litlc  i/ill 

preddenli  or*  the  Acadniy  At  CortoiUa 


FruoU, 


Ludn< 

LudvfUi,    Uoman  «iili<or.    ISth 

Lufiaiut,  Giraldo  tta^  artbitcct,  fl.  1' 


tiuiniDfluiblaa  iDAcaCtiHI.  «15:  !_, 
tlaFma  attributed  to  Jilm  at  BotcAru,  73. 
n.  u  S.  AgsiUnn,  Hctne,  41U  /«,  Is 
B.  M.  HnBtlDn,  KM. 


LuintutFn,  no  Ibe  i 


ilumn.  345. 


Luij.W", 


niihc 
({foil; 

lSSU,'4IS.4Kl,4!ll.49 

KullilOF,  d.  17d7,  61- 

Luther,  Martin,  hiiM 
4BI.    Format  of  him 

l.tiit,  BtneSvtlo,  paintr 


Bt  Fainia,  106, ;  Vm, 


a,  in'thflVafian. 


M^Crie,  Dr.,  on  the  hlitory  of  tbe  Bclhrm- 

Ulnn  In  llnly,  13,  It. 
>lDcdina<d,llieFreni:hi[(-Dera1,  lilt  vlcl 

idnc^^alti,     want    £nsli^i    aculptgr  A 

MitEMiTt,  clUof,  I3S. 

of  "iriS-ella.  ™r  '"rrBroarij'™" 


INDEX.  t 

JicrlD*  SToru.  lOD.  i  DO  (be  bithi  gr  Tui-  '  Hifimni  LHmrr,  it  Bologiu,  19. ;  Pal 

IdiDL  Paluce,  It  Rome,  £13.  i  iIIIb,  SSS.     <  MigntnMi,  vill>Be  or,  80, 81. 
uhtaleiui.  La.  church  or,  >1  Boloini,  SS.      ,  U>Enil)co,  Piluu  del,  it  iii«u,  311. 

,r  p,«iuni,  n'.  ISJG— ld«l,  Wi.  3I3l    Hli        Sliuru,  Ifi  SI  Peln'i.  3Ml 

rettlbul^  iiHl  Dicuie  of  St.  I'Mu'i,  '  Mil.  CuUloil,  hn  iliKoverr  of  Iha  Filli 

■  "  ■~  -"■  ■—    "-"?rinl        Mttil.Kl. 

"      '   ~    UD  Kulptor,  ISlb  cealurj,  < 


S.137.«».iax.    Barbfrini 


, il«luiil,   Lornta,    Slei 

Uidan<ii.cliuicb«ar  the:— it  Aifiwxa,  di  1^    flnl.hei  the  cil 

S.  Columbuio. Mi  del Bnmxmna, it. i  di  166.  |  eallieiliil oT  Siei 

tialIitni,.U.{  di^Luei,T1,'i.  idlMei.  UiijBrw,  BttuiIciIii  da, 

until,  10.  j  del  iaecaaa,  SS.  ;— dl  itor^s  ind  iichiloct,  d.  IJti3, 

5.  5evi)A:Fe,deLle(jriile*l5S.  i-^tGtna*'  '  >  Qiuliaiio   Ja,  ird 

HiH,dll>uuaC(Mi)gliii,jei,;_a[lirriefnUn,  ofBeiicdelta  !:;£  4S4. 

dolU  V*raiM.   li&i—il   ATunw,   ddli  ,  Hiiultci  PUIej,  rollcetl 

Giubo,  Mi.;— It  ^wln,  delli  Luce,  £6.  i  u Fnlli,  IGO. 
lSILi-itIVia»,dc)]ilaiite,llS.i-«t4w- :  MaliAnli, «tei<i. i;s3.  A) 

Irto,  Uonle  Luca,  <ns. ,— il  TWI.  dl  Con-  MnUpoiti,  pouiuIiMi, 

Miliiiao*,  ist.i  — il  rutrlH,  delta  Quer-  I  MiuLiBiuu.toBiior,  £ 

HadoDiui — celebnied  pictura  ind  tUluei  ,  Uiluii  \  il  AtiIh,  ST. 

/if  Ell*  \lailMin>.  nt  lijnMiiii.  niip  Ipft    h*  l-dheof  BfriieOl^  SSI.  I 


l^.delL>fNoKg:^% 


blihinl 


qullyai>JreiiuIe,i>3.^<MCinft»ca.  j 


j  lfuinc,iM9:j  Ulucnta. 

ati  bnally 
1  iulD  Iha  y 


mirijli,  lout  cuniidered  miruuloui,  li.  i 

TCrc,  I3II.  aigliniuDd  PindoTni,  lord  DT 
Rimlid.  tmplBH  All»rU  Id  ki^I  hU 
ehurcli  ofS.  Fwncetco,  IIS. ;  orrin  off 
Ibc  uarblH  g(  a.  Aixdliuan  it  IUtcriu. 

-M  (itmian.,.  oi.c  ullrd  M>d.  di  Buoii 

Conil|(lio,  her Uirluc,  o8l. ;-«  GnX/n  Fb-- 

iii-rsnci^sr  ^ILSa  h; 

to  adom  hit  church,  IW.;  deilntyi  Ibe 

ISa  :— al  OrWr/u,  one  ealkd  Uid.  di  S. 
Briiio,  l«a  1— at /toKnu.  ineimt  nurbk 

Bamao  pan  oT  Rimini  tot  Ibe  uuie  put- 
f«r,  ni  i  eiluget  the  imt  or  SinicRlii. 
li!a    Hii  c.«Ie  no>  Ihe  COitna  of  Ri, 

dfiire  oflhi  Virgin  prijint.  In  otiinlal 

l«led  U>  S.  Luke,  411.  i  on^nrlyOwk 

mlBl,  lia    ilii  tomb  and  Ihalut  hit  wife. 

laoRi,  113^  Cwio,  lord  or  Kimini,  de- 
fcilcd  by  Tarlaglu  da  UieUo,  at  Perugii. 

£50.  l>Mocnicu»o>ello.broU>trof  iiiaii. 
mund.  (ounda  lb*  library  of  Ccuni,  Il». 

»l.lnS.  H.iu  CWHdin,  W&'owf' 

ouenllHl  Had.  delta  ViitoHi,  In  U.  H.dilli 

Hii  tomb.  Ill 

"rS?i«  i^;-!™""  •» ""  """^^  " 

moialc  In  8,  ttutlno  al  Boiill,  133.  jl^t 

nirrAu,  oneeallcd  Uad.  della  Uuenia,  SS7. 

of  S.  M.  delta  Vita  .1  Bulogna.  Sfl.  j    r.. 

tlaffid  Miu^  tbeccKteiudaem,  «>caU«l. 

nurki  on  Lod.  l^icuicl,  il.i  on  Uffa 

3U. 

lb<  Eituican  aiititultia  or  VoJleiri,  luS.  i 

OB  (he  ElruKU  InuHMion  it  Penijia, 

CaaUlta.l5D.  lOnlliea'arhi  of  Galanlnt, 

,    lit,^    Nuncio   or   Jullua  11.,    u 

ai.  1  on  the  Iteuoea  of  (he  Ueinnua.  71. 

MilvnU-Bunflail.  and  Cunpeni    Filaca 

KBok>(na,Bt,<U. 

1>hI>  i  ttu  tomb.  lyd. 

Haraachl.  Padre,  hii  (omb, «». 

urn  III  Vollcrrino).  b.  IliT  j  hi>  hittorr 

and  f  iToi  sant  10  P<HU  Jiamneut,  ns« 

"^lu}'"'"- "'  "'""^  '^'""'  *■ 

f(Ki(e  Hammalo,  343. 

MaHciaira,    (own  ot;    In    (lie   Uaremma. 

Mt|i<ne,  Uwer  uul  poat  houH  oT  HB- 

i»d  m. 

MulUno.  village  aud  medlxa]  ciKle  of. 

»SS«--«'- 

M'a(llinclliKrair>,l>il. 

j^nieli.  It  I2H,  d.  ISit,  «^  suj.  (13, 
WcuuUi  unrnl,  Ijj. 

»«^  ^«™»  *,V*«rf.  iMtire  of  Bobrmta. 


lenunis  L<.  tilLige  uil  liumiil  n 
Bwlu  ""*■  ""W'lW  Uie  die ; 
UruunJli,  Uonierii.SM. 


^•'i"'"^'>of..iF«ii,ioa. 


INDEX. 


659 


Navicella,  4S9.;  derOrto,  4S9.;  della 
Face,  4S9. ;  del  Popolo,  429. ;  ScaU  Coeli, 
4S5. ;  in  Trasteyerc,  431. ;  i.  Trevi  (Croci- 
feri),  431.;  in  VaUioelU,  431.;  in  Via 
Lata,  439. ;  ddla  Vittoria,  438. ;— at  Siena, 
,di  Provenzano,  211. ;  de*  Servi,  212. ;  —  at 
'SpellOf  Maggiore,  269.; — at  Spoleto,  As- 
•unta,  273. ;  —  at  Temi,  Awunta,  275. ;  at 
yiicrbo,  dclla  Verity,  £2& 

Maria,  Sta.,  degli  Angeli,  post-itation,  264. 

Mariani,  CamiilOt  sculptor,  17th  century, 
427. 

Marian!,  the  physician,  his  monument,  68. 

Marignano,  Marquis  di.  General  of  Cosmo  de* 
Medici,  desolates  the  Sienese  Maremma, 
206,216. 

Marini,  Cajetano,  his  inscription  on  Canova's 
monument  to  Volpato,  414. ;  arranges  the 
sepulchral  inscriptions  in  the  'witican, 
4/60. ;  arranges  the  collection  of  terracottas 
in  the  same,  483. 

Mabino,  town  of  (Castrirasenium),  56h 

Marino,  h'AN,  republic  of,  114. 

Mario,  Monte,  at  Rome,  309. 

Marius,  Caius,  the  younger,  kills  himself  at 
Prsneste  after  his  defeat  by  Sylla,  576. 

— — ,  trophies  and  fountain  so  called,  at 
Rome :  —  fountain,  371.  j  trophies,  485. 

Marot,  Clement,  the  French  poet,  Calvin 
and  Jamet,  find  an  asjrium  at  Ferrara,  1.3, 
14.20. 

Marotta,  La,  post  station,  120. 

Mars,  Temples  of,  Ultor  (?)  at  Rome,  329. ; 
at  Spolcto,  274. ;  at  Todi,  164. 

HiarseiUes,  GuiUaume  de,  artist  of  the  cele- 
brated painted  windows  at  Aretco,  238. 

Marsigli,  General  Count,  Mend  of  Sir  Isaac 
Newton,  founder  of  the  Institute  of  Bo- 
logna, 38.    His  monument,  47. 

Marsigli,  La  Bella,  ruined  castle  of  the  Siena 
fiimily,  so  called,  183. 

Marta,  river,  186.  222. 

Martana,  island  of,  in  Lake  of  Bolsena, 
scene  of  the  murder  of  Amalasontha,  222. 

Martial  on  Forum  Cornelii,  104.;  on  the 
bridge  of  Augustus  at  Nami,  279. ;  on  the 
ft-ogs  of  Laurcntum,  6U0. 

Martignano,  crater  of,  285. 592. 

Martin  IV.,  Pope,  elected  at  Viterbo,  824.; 
mentioned  by  Dante  as  having  killed  him< 
•elf  by  eating  the  fish  of  Bolsena  to  excess, 
882.    His  tomb,  253. 

.—  v..  Pope  (Colonna),  his  birthplace, 
581. ;  rebuilds  SS.  Apostoli,  414. ;  builds 
Colonna  Palace,  50& ;  acquires  for  his 
family  Marino  and  Rocca  di  Papa  flrom  the 
Orsinl,  561.  5&i,  and  Paliano  firom  the 
CounU  of  Segni,  588. ;  restores  the  fortifi- 
cations of  Ostia,  594.  ;  his  tomb,  440. 

Martina,  S.,  her  tomb,  423. 

Martinelto,  painter,  of  the  Urobrian  tchool, 
fl.  1422,  253.  869. 

Martini,  Padre,  celebrated  mustcian,  his 
miuical  library,  69. 

Martino,  S.,  Churches  of:—  Maggiore  at  Bo. 

I  logna,  56.  j  ai  Monti  at  Rome,  433. ;  at 
Siena,  211. :  his  tomb,  433. 

Marcius  Q.  Hex,  the  censor,  his  atjueduct, 
(Aqua  Marcia).  366. 

Marucelli,  Paolo,  Roman  architect,  17th  cen- 
tury, 513. 

Marullo,  the  poet,  his  tomb,  126. 

Masaceio,  pauiter,  of  the  Flortntiiie  school, 
b.  1401, d.  1443.}  hit  Wrtbplact,  836. ;  his 


fVescoes  in  S.  Clemente  at  Rome,  419. ;  his 

bust,  487. 
Mascagnt't  Donato,  painter,  of  the  Florentine 

school,  b.  1579,  d.  16J6,  20S. 
»— .    Paolo,    celebrated     anatomist     and 

pathologist   of  Siena,  his  monument  by 

Ricci,  210.  215. 
Mascherc,   Le,  inn  in   the  Apennines,  its 

magnificent  scenery,  76. 
Mass*  Ix>mbaroa,  town  of,  82. 
MARrriMA,  and  its  copper  mines,  181. 

£02.204. 
Massari,  Lua'o,  painter,  of  the  Bolognete 

school,  b.  1569,  d.  1633,  32.  50.  54.  57,  58, 

59.  64.  70.  73. 
Massimi  Palace  at  Rome,  513. ;  Villa,  5S8. 
MeuteUetta,   (Giovanni  Andrea   Donducci) 

painter,  of  the  Bolognose  school,  b.  1576^ 

d.  1655 ;  44.  47.  57,  58, 59.  60. 
Mastio,  11,  mediseval  prison  of  Voltcrra,  200. 
Matera,  Fra  Benedetto  da,  of  Monte  Casino, 

illuminator  of  choir  books,  210. 
Matemum,  Latin  city  of,  now  Farnese  (?)» 

620. 
Matilda,  the  Countess,  bequeaths   her  al. 

lodial  possessions  to  the  Church,  v.  224., 

loses  Siena,  which  declares  her  indepen- 
dence, 205. ;  her  portrait,  484. ;  her  tomb, 

391. 
Matsys,  Quentin,  Flemish  painter,  509.  (?) 
Mattea,  S.,  Church  of,  at  Bologna,  57. 
Mattel,  Fia  Qabriele,  of  Siena,  illuminator 

ofchoir  books,  210. 
Mattel  Palace  at  Rome,  513. ;  Villa,  538. 
Matthews,  author  of  *' Diary  of  an  Invalid,** 

on  the  works  of  Lod.  Caracci,  33. ;  on  the 

works  of  Guide,  34. ;  on  the  S.  Cecilia  of 

Raphael,  2S. ;  on  the  Leaning  Towers  of 

Bologna,   67. ;    on    the    blessing  of  the 

animals  at  Rome,  414. 
Mattioii,  Lodovico,  Bolognese  engraver,  17th 

centunr,  his  only  known  painting,  50. 
Maury,  Cardinal,  his  tomb,  432. 
Maxentius,  his  defeat  by  Constantine  on  the 

Ponte  Molle,  286. 
Maximian,  Emperor,  partly  builds  the  Baths 

of  Diocletian,  358. 
Maximian,  St,  his  ivory  pastoral  chair  with 

bas-reliefs,  6th  century,  87. 
Masarin,  Card.,  occupies  and  enlarges  the 

Rospigfliosi  Palace,  514. 
Maxou,  French  architect,  IPth  century,  441. 
Maxxa,   Qhaeppe,   Bolognese  painter   aud 

sculi^or,  18tu  century,  51.  55. 
MaxxiHi,  sculptor,  Idih  century,  211. 214 
MaTouoiini,  Ijadovico,  or  I.od.  da  Ferrara, 

K inter,  of  the  Ferrarese  school,  d.  1530, 
.491.501. 
Ma%aomi,  Giuiio,  of  nacensa,  architect,  fl. 

1570,  516. 
-.— ,  Cesare  Ghueppe,  painter  of  the  Bo- 
lognese school,  l7th  century,  46i. 
MaxxMoli,  Guiseppe,  painter,  see  Basiantoto. 
,  Giuseppe,  sculptor,  of  Voltcrra,  18th 

century,  216.  400. 
Measures  of  the  Papal  States,  the  post,  mile, 

foot,  and  palm,  8. 
Mecsenas,   nis  birthplace,  8S7. ;  his  house 

and  gardens  at  Rome,  353. ;   his  villa  at 

TivoTl,  549. 
Medals,  Cabinets  of.  See  Museums. 
Mediseval  antiquities,  collection  at  tht  Va« 

tican,481.483. 
Medici  VUla,  at  Rome,  £38. 
rr  6 


now  UcvA^n. ' 


Ranie,  nK 


S^'degll  Angcil.  li  R«i>e,  493'. 

MEW)i,i.ituitii«rtnwii<ir.er  " 

N«>  Huduii,  St  Hqnu^  StS. 
Metpciaflo,  Jiia  [linhplacp. 


li1'4Hnlu,  cnnrafl 

DolsfiHL  nraukiA 

Elf  the  PJOi  embiTT^ .  _. 
MevAuTmnU,  Cpnl-,  eclebrjtted  Unp^ft.  cm^ 

nienunitnl  bxLoRl  It]rnin.39.i  Puifiilii'i 

rurowr  piliica  K  Ronie,  fits. 

D  DlWoo  or  A  rrixi.  341 . 1  CMS- 

Rmifii^  18S  i  SKin,  rat.;  nc- 

13.!  VeB.  (,89.;    VB&aa,  ISJ.j 


•i.  IK 


3lirtiKl  Aagtbi  IBiaimrtvUi),  aMUtce^ 
•culptoc.  mnd  niUiln-,,  □(  tin  FlufnHM 
•cbwil,  b.  at  Sliigenu,  iwni  Mrm,  IB*, 
d.  IK^,  UK  woAt  In  iBisincnwl:— •■ 
(V«(b  Frakta.    the   fotlreuL  flt?-i— " 

Horn*  ef  St  P«t«'j,  S83. :  chord)  rfiSE 
degll  Anieli  luid  Iti  cIdUvi,  S«.  W). 
PDtdcoof  S.  H.  dellk  Km-iullitfi&j-ir 
Famne  pilue.  OS,  5S0. ;  pukun  d  K 
Catlcol.  (&J,  4S&,  Itw  Fena  Hk  SR, 
Poiti  del  Pspiita,  387. ;  CoUmof^eth 
iiHiua.£K.;  Diejide  of  Villa  Hu^AJB 
ScutnoiK.  UiM^KiM.  the  btuiH  WM 
of  S.  Pelioat^  uid  m  siig^  «7'i  *  dL 
lerr  (Fl,  W.  i  clbniuin  (t],  e8.;~jd  IM% 


Df  CbitiL  u  I.;  itae  CBletKatal  AiU  IH^ 
■tutua  of  ChrJri,  «7. :  ■  nuH  nun  tf 

Chrirt  (?),  JOB.;  nuiuexH,  Ac  8B)Lj,l 
clitern,«T.i  hut  oTFaenH)  the  poet, <£; 
orUotu.iledgiiedu  part  nf  thBtaaAff 
JuUia  IJ..  43G;  Ihe  celebrated  Wg*  fc 

to  blm,  fiul.  aj,'siS.  i  K  SatiT  (f).  H&i— 
nt  Slmfl,  BMamnent  oC  Baodial.  wlft  1 
nitue  ur  ChrM,  ■  luaph  and  no  maffK 
SW,:  a puibLe  tsbenucle  and  iwa iDiBk 
Di<ritnitKliDhhii(71.«II.  r/timaai-^ 
Sotogna^  detigrd  uf  Ihe  palnled  t^KM  VT  K 
FelrunLi^  ia.i  iketeh  or  a  fary^  tfT.;^(tt 
Fenaiat  peD-ond-ink  iketch  An-  Idacd^ 
bnted  uuiie  of  ChcitC,  fiGI. :  detlai  kra 
CnidSiion,  eee,;— al  Ai»e,  ihe  ncfof 
Ihe  BullBD  sh^el,  VA.i  Ihe  Lait  Jii^> 
irmi,  445.  i  (Iti  dnign  (hnacd  imtnlu 
upBD  the  worki  of  Lun  ragnondftilAK 
the  cniTenlan  at  8c  FanL  lod  the  ^iki 
fixion  ef  St.  Peter  in  Ihe  CwdUSMlHti 

Ihe  ^HTueiliu  Palaoe^  611  \  aa  AHlbM^ 
tton  jialnted  tiam  hli  deriin  In  &JiHH 
Latenii,4UL.t  bit  dfiigna  ft«  SA.4d>t 
Draba'i  FlijeUalian  inf[Traiiiflgui*Mn& 


r^UD,  24ai    It   BannuaviLki,  U.;    te 
— KD  Daar  Boloeoi,  71. :  de'l«)[™elU  u 

ArcsDgL'lu,  at  Cilia  dl  Cattdlo.  15^;  at 


■uount  of  lUptu 
It  hiourlM  mi- 


Hipid.  Dun,  I 

ilUaHO.  Limsrio  ia,  '  puLnter,   pupil    of 

Mile,  Icnglh  of  lli«  Kc^n  ind  lutUn,  S. 

Uilii  rl>°r,  £01 

Uill^,  on  (hcbUhi  oTDkcletUia,  3S3. 

of  AuK^lul^ieTaM.  *cfu°uinu'  UUlluU, 
■Dllotaw  (rf  VupaMin  uid  Hccvi,  ia& 

MiUi,  Villi,  on  Ihc  PiUUne,  3Si.  539. 

UilD,  iho  ftW  of  CiHn^  nxns  of  hi!  bul 

Minardi,  liting  painUr,  at  Rome,  5£i 

Uiiiera]  waltn :  —  at  Cepranica,  FonU  Car- 
tonaci,  Riucb  uKd  in  wpbciuc  aSL-ctiDdi, 
£31. 1  at  Crrvtlri,  Bagn)  dl  SaiKi  (Aquie 
Ciieretame>,G(J7-i  ttCliiamcianOthottpr'wsn, 
17s.  I  atCiMfa  I'cixiUiLibalybuleipclnta 
of  BatDl  di  Fsrau  (AqiwTiurl),  IM.  i 
at  Fama,  hUiw  ipTlngi  of  Htn  Cnitvfbro, 
lOG.  j  chiijMate  iprlnn  of  Chiiu^  107. ; 

liable  lurfngi  o(  Acqua  Buja,  76.' ;  at  Ho- 

iiscc/g,1ioturingt,!^'t  al  Afotfitulphur 

Kngt  of  thD  BainI  d  BaciiK,  M4.  i  at 
(,  Hot  ipitnia,  SK8.  (  uriOiMlB,  the 
Bum  dl  Vicutila  (-IHeiTDC  AuRlie), 
m-i  at  y^UwTi,  uliiie  >ptin|iof  San 
F«lin,  £01.  i  hot  lurlngi  of  the  Bafol  ■ 
Mgrtia.  near  Uonl*  CcrlwU,  9M. 
Mincrnloaieil    UuieuiD  of    the  Ea|>teua, 

Uiiierra',  Wmpla  of  :-at  Aulil,  !69.  t  M 
Rome,  Childdlcji,  3S9.  i  Unlica,  »l. 
,  Sutuc  or  Minem  Medka,  the  DiHit 


Miiit  of  Bolocni.  S9 

lllncle  (Tt  BoUei 
of  the  Cotviu 
aUiedral  oJ  Ui 


UlUICDOLA, 


Rome,  £S5. ;  I 

i^'lhe'oHiln  of  ibe  IMl' 
Domini,  iil,)  and  of  t 
Tleto,  lee.  Ibphael-i  p 
UliKle  of  Ihe  ume  kl 

isLJolin  Latetan,4ua. 


I,  !7. ;  lo  Fenara,  W. 
If  Doiogna,  aculpLor 


foundn.a.  IfliT,  a 


Montaanano,  villigeDf.HS. 

Montilto,  village  of  (Forum  Autelii),  nov 
the  papal  eiuunn-hnuie,  186,  619. 

Monlalto  Villa.  ■!  FraKali,  557. 

Houte,  Abelone,  GU7. j  Aceno,  HT.  \  Aeu. 
lo.iali;  Aaiuo  (£>iila),  OKI. ;  Apeito, 
£05. ;  Arimtailo,  ISi.  i  di  Atdtutiale,  119. : 
Atenlioo,  30a  ■,  &  Butolo  (Acclnt  Hoiu), 
l]7.i  di  Bolvedeie  (I'uaciP),  1£&  j  Ctello. 
SOS.  I  del  CaDpklo(lIa,3U6,i  dl  Canord. 
-ine.  as.1  Capilno,  XI.-,  Cardeto,  lit.: 
-■•PAUL    1(1  .    i-^t\th   £3P  '   **-v.j-«-~/ 


ale  *i0B ;'  Hadi'coMj7&  rHaiaano,  9>5.i  Bipoi 
U,517.;  Bocca  Honiana,  ^JO.  1  ftoHi,  ]!W.; 
Rotondo  (Cniituinnluin).  177.  i  Rotondo, 
in  Ihe  Heremnia,  !05.  -,  Santailno,  HI.  i 
Beiiarii>,7G.;  Somu,  1^5. )  Soiacle,  £70. 
£83.1  delSorba,!W7.iTar|icU,3S7.i  Tea- 
Uccio,  XO.  I  TIS.  111.;  UllTeto  Uaniora, 
SJ&j   Vatluno,  3U0.1    Veide,  30>1,  5Si.  ( 

Hontebndonl,  Borgodl.  I9S, 

Uonlecatino,  Antonio,  prvAHor  of  tbtPtrU 

patetic  Philouiihr.  hli  lamb.  17. 


.onlerclti 


>f,  £71. 


F'r»c1!,°™ani^hrTow.''lirSSiil[  ^d 
dlB  there  in  Itge.  Sffl.  Kit  peilUlou. 
ad.  Ice  lo  Bf  nadln  Vlll.  Ihr  Ihe  WIUMiOD 


•  unit  of  S.  ribBnana  IIWD)  i 
'  iM  nnmune  tntf  u  the 


dukr  of  VrMK  tn  Sliiui  IV,  In  1(71,  u. 


xlyi  IV,  In  ir-      -  - 

IB*  aiiru  uliBO  of  Utblno,  lie,  hi* 
llbnri  now  In  the  TMinn.  UO.  MS. 
Mocnphr  or  bin  b;  HuiIo.wlIh  mlnlii- 
luma  1^  ClDTlu.  Ut.  MS.  Vein  1°  bu 
•  iSiut  lit.  '™°"'  ■»'''' 
,  nuM'  Ubaldo  L,  ton  oTFedniito.  con. 

fnmul  elf  the  pi|wl  iruij  of  A^ex.  VI. ; 
OofHInt  It  SoAina.l^  Vitellaiiii  Vit^ni, 
Mna  mm  atla.  loraifm  m  tho  »n:™loii 

»rjuiiH.ii..wiMnijmaimui;rtiiii«,anj 

nwnl,  Ihv  SI,  Gcoigt  and  the  Dfiidd,  hi 

lUphHI,  It3.  Itt. 
— ^  Cadnlea  BUHiU  Sfbru.  wife  dT  Fe- 

4ni|ni.  ettobritid  br  Bernndo  Thh,  lu. 
,  UncbMi  Efliibetta  Goiiiin,  of  Mm- 

■iDtCml,  Bcinho^lhe  arlgiiuil  of  Sliik. 

,  Clwgniil,  diuahler  or  Federlm,  niir- 

rJM  Oluvanni  dslla  IloTi^re,  biother  or 
Julliu  11.  and  catrlci  Che  dukntom  of 

,         tlrblM  knni  the  Korcro  baiUj.  143.    »v 

'      "floturt 

I     VomritBCSHB,  town  of^HS.  283. 

I     ts  Orrleto,  C.  della  Hew  nod  Peragia, 

JtfmleLpo,  KifOii^  da,  Florentine  KDlpiloT, 
miril  uT  M,  Angela,  9.  IGII^  130.  IM.  «7. 

nomviaiNo,  iDini  of,  ISS,  Ail. 
HaNTari'Lcusii,    town   of,  ITS.;   iti  lake 

(Cniarodl  MonWpuJciano],  174.  Ml. 
Hoatercinc,  pnt-iUtloa  Clvlla  Vecabla  nad), 

ISO.:  (Siena  mad).  Cia. 

WoniEiOHi,  hUl  of.  the  iiiiMnt  Neeropolii 

of  TarquinH,  611. 
MoBtcMui™,  hla  emmeoiu  oriirtm  ntUie 

SenatlU  Coniuttuin  at  SaTlgiiaan,  110. 

Moniauton,  hln  ud'nion  of' the  Drlnii 
Oladial0T,496,i  on  theruiu  of  RUotrtDa, 

Mont'nM,  Gdj  de,  hli  lonMei  of  Princo 

Heniy  of  England,  at  Vitorto,  Sti,  US. 
MmU^  Rioiie,  at  Home,  S99l 
Mama,  Glan  Clacamn,  BolDgncK  anhltert, 

MooH,  VliKcino,  'lh«  poM,  hli  Wrthplaw. 
M-i  bt. portrait, 20.;  hi!  trasedy  munded 
00  the  hlHon  of  Galentto  Manful,  108. 

MDnticelli,  frudnl  cnHle  of,  JSl. 
JUonlmoraici,  the  Conitable  Aimc  de,  nit.  I 
«nt  St  the  balllE  of  Aa.enna,  VOa.-,  le-  ^ 


H  the  UpHITiM  or  Raphael 


Amgrlo,  of  eaioa,  B 

a.  Iseo,  IE8.  *a^. 


Mooie,  TbuniM,  the  poti,  on  ma 
Iiontia  d-Andrea,  at  Boloana. . 

Manma,  Gin.  Maria,  ti^nur.^i 
liBB  ■chmil,  b.  16E2,  i.  1717,  ffS 


Momran/H«ro  da, elected  pono  ib,^_~ 
aiCelHlinV.tian),  JI6  ^^ 

Mott»den^theaiil™i.auwgB,7*.  J 

Mmto  Gen"™ MA     "  "*^  """■"^  Mfl 

HDUI«,anIii|ae;  — in  the  Capitol,  Pllai^ 
□otcB,  *»!.  I  the  OladistoTi  an-'  -"■ — 
498.1  in  th«V:aieani  Diana  oT 
4SA  I  paTemcm  ftmi  Hadiiui'tT Ufa, bail  ■ 
of  MaduH,  &0. 471. ;  in  the  rilla  AlMaL  * 
the  mbaiil  of  BhiloHbheni,  SSS.;  aC  9t- 
iHlTlna,  the  odiibranKt  pavonent  of  Onet 
wof  kman^ipL  57^  ^3. 

ChtuOjBi— al  J(«BHma,orBjiaiiUnii 

Mia  Placllffll,  93.  i  ohap^l  of  St.  Pete 
ChrnolDiai.  96. 1  6Ih  »nliin:  JiHtiiiiao'i 
Dionlci  fn  a.  Vltale,  S8, 89.;  ThradHlp-i 
cathedral  fbr  the  Arlan  tilibou,  »1 . ;  ihe 
AriM  bipUilerj,  BS.  i   ■»•.  or  8.  ipolH- 

tury,  S.  Anionla  Abate  {opiu  Alnan- 
dt(nuiio),41s.i  Stb  oenniry,  S.tLfbs- 
e^DTc,  4&t< :  tth  rwnturr,  An  Ccell  (pm- 
411. i  ^..P3^  In  Vine.  ^.(  ks»i^ 
RMnnda,  4tn.  i    Bth  century.  S3  None 

a,  Teodaro,440;|  Dth  oentun,  &  aIckId! 
4IS.1  a.CedUa,  *lg.  ;  s.  Fnneeiai  Ko- 
mana,  410. ;  S.  Mano,  4M.  i  S.  M.  dr<lli 
NavlcelU,  tea. j  S.  If  ' 
S.  PruKde,  tSS. ; 


(B|Au  Alei.),  49S :  lElh  oentun,  s. 
Traiie.ere,  isi .  j  J3lh  cmtuiT,  &.L(i._ 
408,1  a.  Johnl.aieru>,«(U.(i»,«p) 

^ora)  403.':  16th  century '(d^tawflS 
RaphaEl),  S.  M.  del  RJiiala,  Mui  M 
anil  I9ih  centurlo,  SI.  peier'i.  380. ;  S  H 
s™u  Cfflllj  435.     At  OrMa  tirrala,  JI." 


Uatciino,  dm  M 


MoBDiI.er,  177. 

Uounler,  the  F^meh  ftneral,  bi>  Hck  of 

Huccla,  Cm,  miuriid  •UIhhi,  157. 

Hufnafhlibirthplnce,  573. 

Mirmu,  AloHlata  inturtnl),  mlnter,  of 

the  Venetian  KboDT,  fl.  ItsO,  US. 
Haul,  HadAmr,  her  portridt  lwARi»]ii,9P. 
-■ — ,dHi»ted  br  iKc  AunrUni  >l  FnTliD- 

Hiwll,  in  mi,  109, ;  utlerlT  defeiled  ^ 


tu.   i«lpt< 


il.l7S7*l. 


b.i«aa, 


HuruiF,  oiGrnl  Will  dT  VcniH,  T9.  Si. 
MUTillo,    Sarlalammro    Slffano,      SpuUh 

palnlet,  I.  1(il3— 16X5,  ai«,  M9. 
Mum  Torto,  >1  Rome  300.1 
HuKO  Chlanmont).  In  the  Vatican,  Ml.; 

Do  Clemenlino,  ».«6.;  GreaoiiaDo,  A. 

HUKumi :  —  or  firb  anaiam 

mUMa,  RonwlValicanCw.  i- 

AnlinM'tt.AntHi.ViO.-.BologiiM.St, 
Ctamcln.Sil.iCelMH,  tT5.|  ChKui.ivi, 
ITS:  CortODLfM;  Honleiii^Hio,  175. i 
Miuunuia    (Lucien  Duoiuputt],  «!?■ ; 

inn»ia  (CMinl  Ba«]Ionl),  SSS.  i  (Hui. 
Pub.),  in).  1  (  PbL  Bncetmhl;,  I6L  i  Rmne 
Cimiunii},  Xo.  1  (Coll.  Bomana],  SM.  j 
Uiu.  Ontor.  ViUcu^i  4T4v  i  SutHno, 
ITS  1  Tucanella  [3.  Campanarl),  Sli. ; 
Viillcrr*,  lse,lSl.;-oiattrktii4 Umirn 
AMtamilfri,  Aioso,  SW. ;  DoUwna,  38. ; 
Fnrura,  30. ;  NKWia  (iMal),  iJo. ;  Oil. 
na(lanl).  197- 1  Peaan,  IIT.;  llaTcniia, 
01. 1  Koine  (C^Mol),  Ml. ;  (Lateno), 
««.MVaaean!,4flftt  (p,'BonlHM).-JDL i 
(P.  LaotlUSli  L  (P.  Maulmi),  SIS.  I  [P. 
HaiHI),  5I9L I  (P.  OMnI).  Ml. ;  (P.  Roe 
MHuD.Slt  I  (P.  flpiAa),  M«.  I  (P.  VI. 
■lnii1,Sia.i  (Mua.(.-ui|>aiia:,.'»0. 1  [Vllti 
Albanl),  fyi.;  (V.  AiaobruiUnl).  GSi.i 
(V.  BonheH).  OStL  1  (V.  LuArrbl),  537. ; 
ly.  Uattn),  U8.;  UAIbo  {Unt;,  14.1.; 
TlieiOo  {local).  67.1  — or  VcKob  im) 
CMu,Bglo|n*,»t. :  FeRifa,BO.i  Fnnila 
(P.  CooDeatatiH),  WI. :  Penro,  lIT.  1  Ha- 
nnnn,  D7.  i  Rome  (CoU  Bom.),  «<. ; 
(VaUeaol,  48S.|  San  Hailna  (C*T.  Boi- 
riieti),  Itt  i-d/  Nalwral  NrMOFv,  Aieaio, 
no.  I  Boloina  [and  analsmiF),  K.  <  C»l& 
d)  Ca«lelUi  innill  geolotr  of  (ho  Anen- 

(Sai>lcnia).1in  S«4. 
H»lc:  — French  and  FleirUb:  MS.  irule, 
lHh  cenluiT,  UC.    Muikol  Aeiilenla. 

MiulinaiM.  cluMauol'UiePHDctol'CinlDa, 


111  (Savonilll)  Palace,  at  Rome 
if  Card.  Votil,  nurtVaKaO,. 

9S.  415.  4S7.  SsO-'sSf 


rin  dl  Mnnt< 
CiTnlto  ClD.(D, 


biogtapli)'  of  Duke  Fede- 


ir,  of  Atheni  [b.c,  4K], 


sss 


IW. 
Nnona,  ^aiia,  at  Romp,  m. 
XMia,  Crurrc,  Df  OtTlHo,  palnlci,  a,  1590, 

404.427.  481. 
NeflTonI,  Villa,  at  Rome,  639. 
Xrllo,  Marami,  painter,   of  the  Unibrlaa 

^  oilatliHK     and'    Tammaie,  lonl    or 

Hamllo.  palnten,  nf  the  UmbrlaO  KhMl, 


f  (La 


™u).  » 

«'  or  Nrpalel,  S84. 


the  Oiatono,  and  founder  of  1^  order  af 
■IteOntorjr,  inlldt  S.  M.  In^allinlla, 
431.  i  Indueeo  Card.  Baioniui  to  vr^te  hli 
"AoMlI.'US  Hif  chamber  and  ill  lUr. 
nlture,  13!.  HIa  buit  from  ■  ciB  taken 
after  death,  48.  Ma  lomb,  4K. 


t>«hL  353.    TsBb  enoi 

hit  nan*.  tM  Tndlllonal 

Pbcc.  4»     Hi!  •ilia  at    suoacii.    »*.  ; 

Birthiiliioe  and  Tllla  at  P«to  d'  Anio, ««, 

Nriola,  (lllaje  ud  oHtl*  of  (RetllluB  t), 


called  tw 
III  builat 


iaUtj.ynttMd.  tht  Ri 


il  Bubignii,  SS. 


_  _  .     unci,  ciuna  dcUi  PIgDc, 

PlMWlo,  *37. 1  and  S.  Teodoro.  MO.  1  the 
NM>uhr,Dn  ibernlloT  Vultlnli/^J. ;  on  Ihe 


ObetUki  tl  Roide: — nf  3.  J 

sn.;  s.  Miria  HuciBiVaiS'i  ■• 

KRi  Pjuillioin,  a75L;  >kaaB  Kin 
!fii,  i  dd  PDpolo,  374.  i  TrinlU  de'  Hi 
37i.i  V.tlcin,S3;  Villa  lilaiui,jn, 

Otici,  LLtIbi  KDlptdr,  It  Rome,  ASS. 

UbHtriitarf  of  Rfiil^  fiat. 

O'ConuU,  Duiel,  hli  bwt  in  S.  Acau 

OctiTi^  lirtR  or  Ausuuiu 

3ST,     Coluniii  or  Iha  imttlco,  w! 
'  Dug  (Sauroa   wiil  Bid 


ivWani,  church  of  IhB.  ■LGutibiiLMu 
ruari,  Pfctra  Paula,  of  'nTnli.iculnl^i 
inhilKl,  IStti  c«1Ut>,  WI.  41«.  dLJB 
_.Lti(rt  Iht  AIhM.  at  Pvurq,  Uh  wnllll 
till,  tamiia  nt  tbe  libiur  .     -        ^ 

Olma,  L'.Titlifeor.SU. 
Ombroiit  river  (UmbTD).  IS2,  ii 
O'Nril,  of  iVtonr,  hii  |.^.ni.  JoJ 
DnEHi,  Bctui  PleUu, 


(hlr..rll.,<-o(iH<nUl.»Bl  ,       — --   ^_ 

I'lf  I(..M,i..<,>,  .1  U-OH.m.  B(U41H<o  I',„.  II    :<') 


UpbHUdBIBrElHRlV. 
•r.rtiul..  chuKb  efUiB.  VU«tii>.»a, 


Oim.gfMil»..^Miof«f  Hat,  Ji-aamw 

tmBt*  of  gunBB^  IB. 
Ouiail,  (lU^*  al  iOoichIh).  M 

OTU,Hili>raw>U<iiB(K(v«*itUw  Ilk* 

OMhMt,  Untril,  ai>4    tlw  Flmck  Binr. 
IIMiU»i>C  n«t(IUv1,  JUIM.    (Sm 


r■U^  •ilUd  °( {AUunl.  IH 
lK*.nt    to-      l-.l»ialMn,>UI>f><>r.l'V'VUL 


twf  Miiwun  •!  VIMitoi  O).     Hw  pit- 

IWn'il'tr,  10.  n.  .  . 

uaa,  UI.     llu  thDRk    H  timom    A 

nuMn,  Ittmmtim.  Main,  ef  dia  IV<« 
UtMKt«ll,II.  1«M^  liio,  If.  W.  M 

hBoam.  amrnta  WWir,  i4  lull  irMari, 
tetm  Miajatina  la  ntMb».hiat  IM  ant 
pnMalfcw,XU 

•MHi<b.  l«l,4lT<M.  ilk 


INDEX. 


667 


?oU,4&    Count  Carlo's  lines  on  Faensa, 
05. 

FfcreU  rirer,  218. 

Pbbgola,  town  of,  and  its  manufactories, 
1S9. 

Fersius,  claimed*  as  a  native  of  Voltenra, 
sepuHrliral  inscription  to  a  cliild  of  his 
fttmily,  201.  Early  MS.  of  his  Satires, 
39S. 

Perticari,  the  poet,  his  birthplace,  116. 

PntVGu,  city  of  (Perusia  of  the  Etruscans), 
249— 2n3. 

-^  to  Cittk  di  :Caste11o  and  Oubbio,  16S. ; 
to  C.  ddia  Pieve  and  Orrieto,  17&;  to 
Nanii,  164. 

Perughto^  Pietro  (  Vannucef),  naintcr,  of  the 
Umbrian  school,  b.  at  C.  della  Pieve,  1446, 
d.  1534,  his  house  at  Peruffia,  261. ;  his 
letters  and  paintpots  at  G.  d.  Pieve,  170. ; 
his  works,  36.  57.  61.  119i  121.  1S5.(?)  158, 

:  159.  (?)  170.  207.  2ia  253,  254,  255.  256,  257, 
258, 259. 261,  262, 263.  289,  270.  (?)  427.  444. 
452. 458, 459.  491.  515.  (P)  516. ;  his  bust, 
468. 

Peruxxif  Baldauare^  or  da  Siena,  architect 
•  and  pnintcr,  of  the  Sienese  school,  b  1481, 
d.  15d6,  46.  58.  63.  207.  209,  210,  211j  212. 
813,  214, 215. ;  his  original  drawings  and 
sketchbooks,  215,  216. ;  his  architectural 
works  at  St  Peter's,  382.  405.  426.  429. 
434.  499,  500.  507.  510,  511,  512,  513,  514. 
520.;  his  tomb,  333. 

Fertaxinf,  Giov.,  iiainter,  of  the  Bolognese 
school,  b  1629,  d.  1691,  60. 

P^  river,  193. 

PB8AB0,  town  of  (Pisaurum),  116—118, 

— -toUrbiiio.  11& 

Fesaro^  Nfecoih  da  {Trcmetta),  painter,  of 
the  Roman  school,  17th  century,  116.  415^ 

— — ,  Simone  da.    See  CaniarinL 

<^— ,  Lionardo,  of  Venice,  bis  monument 
by  Canova,  424. 

Peter,  St.,  his  prison  at  Rome,  36a ;  tra- 
ditional scene  of  his  crucifixion,  435. ;  his 
chains,  436,  437. ;  his  traditionid  residence 
at  Pneneste,  579. ;  his  chair  and  statue  in 
St.  Peter's,  388. ;  his  tomb,  392. 

Peter's,  St,  basilica,  at  Rome,  history,  381. ; 
colonnades,  facade,  384. ;  interior,  385. ; 
dome,  386i ;  ascent  of  dome,  393. ;  baldac- 
chino,  tribune,  monuments,  3B8. :  Orotte 
Vaticane,  S92. ;  sacristy,  39ii.\  illumina- 
tions, 394.  ;  ceremonies,  394—398. 

Fetra  Intercisa,  and  Pertusa  (Pass  of  the 
Furlo),  139. 

Petrarch,  his  birthplace,  297. :  hb  house  at 
Arezso,  241. ;  his  autographs  and  Rime, 
484. ;  his  bust,  488. ;  portrait  1^  Giulio 
Romano,  538. 

Fetraxzi,  Astolfb,  painter  of  the  Sienese 
school,  d.  1()65, 210.  212, 21& 

Petriano,  village  of,  147. 

Petriula,  village  of,  136. 

Fetronio,  S.,  church  of,  at  Bologna,  43. ; 
statue  and  head  of,  45. 

Petronius,  Perpenha,  prefect  of  Rome,  his 
mtoration  of  the  baths  of  Constantine, 
352. 

Petrucci,  Pandolfb,  tyrant  of  Siena,  S0&  211; 
his  t()mb,  216. 

— — ^  Marchese,  the  naturalist,  his  birth- 
place,  116. 

Fhidiag  and  Prarftetft,  has  relleft  of  the 
throne  of  Neptune  attributed  to  them, 


89.    Statues  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  bearing 
their'names  on  Monte  Cavallo,  375. 
Philip  II.,  his  portrait  by  Titian,  507. 
Philostratus,  MS.  copy  of  his  '*  Images,"  in 
the  handwriting  of  Mich.  ApostolTus,  39. 
Phocas,  the  emperor,  his  column  at  Rome, 

345. 
Physicians  at  Rome,  291. 

Fiaeentmit  Gio.  Baitvta,  Bolognese  archi- 
tect, 18th  century,  64. 
Plan  di  Palma,  the  Necropolis  of  Satumio. 
622. 

Pianoro,''post-8tation,  75. 
Pianta  Oapitolina,  ancient  plan  of  Rome  in 
white  marble,  found  in  T.  of  Remus  in 
the  Forum,  333.  492. 

Piazsa  di  S.  Doroenico.  at  Ancona,  126L ; 
del  Giganteand  Magmore  at  Bologna,  61. ; 
di  Soprammuro,  at  Fcrugia,  258.;  dell* 
Aquila,  del  Duomo  and  Maggiore,  at  Ra- 
venna, 98 ;  Barberini  and  Bfattei,  at 
Rome,  377.;  of  the  Monte  Cavallo  and 
the  Pantheon,  <ft.  375. ;  Colonna,  id.  3H.  t 
Navona,  ib.  sJ9. ;  del  Pasquino,  fb.  379. ; 
St.  Peter's,  ib.  37a  379.  884.;  del  Popolo, 
ib.  287. ;  di  Spagna,  ib.  378. ;  del  Campo 
at  Siena,  212. ;  dcUa  Porta  Nuova  at  Spo- 
leto,  273. 

Piccinino,  general  of  the  Duke  of  Milan,  his 
victory  over  the  Florentines  at  Castel 
Bolognese,  104, 105. ;  defeated  by  them  at 
Angbiari,  159. 

Piccione,  La.  village  of,  163. 

Piecolomini  Villa,  at  Frascati,  557. 

Piekler^  engraver  on  gems,  his  bust,  488. 

Plella  Palace,  at  Bologna,  65. 

PiBNZA,  town  of,  175.  218. 

Fierantonif  modern  Roman  sculptor,  488. 

Pietramala,  village  of,  in  the  Apennines, 
75. ;  near  Thrasimen^  248. 

Pietra  Pertusa,  at  Veil,  588. 

Pietro,  S.,  churches  of,  at  Assisi,  269. ;  C.  dl 
Castello,  153. ;  Fano,  119. ;  Frascati,  556. ; 
Gubbio,  161.;  Nerola,  176.;  Palestrina. 
579.;  Perugia,  257.;  Rome  (Vaticano^ 
Basilica),  381.  i  in  MontoriOL  4S5. ;  in  Vin. 
coli,  436. ;  Siena,  212. ;  Spoleto,  273.  ; 
Tosranella,  618. 

Fietro,  Giho  ffi',  painter,  of  the  Sienese 
school,  fl.  1249.  207. 

■^— ,  Lorenzo  di^  sculptor  and  painter,  of 
the  Sienese  school,  b.  1494,  d.  1482,  206. 
209,  210.  21& 

.   Sana   di^    painter,    of    the  Slenete 

school,  fl.  14S2— 1460, 206.  216. 

Pieve,  village  of,  135. 

di    Cento,  26. ;   de'  Saddi,  150. ;  Fa- 

vera,  137. 

Pigna,  Rione,  at  Rome,  298. 

Pimentelli,  Card.,  his  tomb,  427. 

PIncio,  Monte,  at  Rome,  309. 

Pindar,  the  Greek  edition  of  (CaOiergus, 
Romv,  151.5),  the  first  Greek  book  printed 
at  Rome,  511. 

Pine  Apple,  colossal,  of  bronse,  fbund  in  the 
tomb  of  Hadrian,  now  in  the  Vatican 
gardens,  485. 

Fmrlli^  Anionia,  painter,  of  the  Bolognese 
school,  d.  1644, 70. 

PIneta  or  Pine  Forest  of  Ravenna,  80,  81.  ; 
supplies  the  Roman  fleet  with  timber,  84. ; 
described,  101.    Pineta  of  Castel  Fusano, 

.ftro.  

Pino  torrent,  587. 


b,  ttm  irtoUIIMa  4rl,  palnler.  oT  lh( 
•U>u  H^issl,   th  IWi,  d.  IM7,  !»■ 

-J*  Um  «*•!(«  of  U.  AiHdo],  fse. 

N.  *«.  KrnD  uic  <«t1im  a>  U.  AngcM. 

■.5£i(a,£ii.   uiiiiuii. «!«. 

^vaiHt^BM  UluBnUoiu  ar  Ihc  Idinb  of  the 
r  adAtt,    KS.;  tba  Bwau  Cotuiiilxriii, 

I  aer!iwlH«iiriiuiiii,37iitii(iaiiitiDf 

BIVm.  MiwM  <■.  pitiiur,  ot  [be  FlurenUiK 
Kaobael,  K  lt|0-U3K  tl«.  tSE.  tis. 
IL_  lOma  A  mPiiamt,  mUUct  und 
EnMec,  4.  l«a-U7S.,  Ui*  fnubdcr  nf 
■dWMIu  inilMuic,  HI,  Hl>  bu-nllef 
■«r  lb*  M»b  of  &  Dimnka,  *t  Balwu, 
BbaMntk.t?.  I  Um  HoMin  oT  ai  Uo- 
DaLin  ftwr 
t.  irll^  tiu.1 
r  joocwumi.ai&iealhaclru 
197.  t  diurdi  of  a>  UATgheri 

r  Fiuue,  ma  at  SicsrUb, 

nUif  so  the  eatiicdnl'ar  Oiiixo,  166. : 


PinoLiiKa,  tawn  at,  on  in  uDknovii  Etnii- 

Phii  I.,  s^  pupe,  biUldi  (Ln  160)  sniarv 
Df  S.  Pruifito,  for  Iht  eulf  CbiUUtni, 

ont^ciluorihshouKDf  PuOeiiiLMa.  ' 
—  IL,  pnie  <£iHu  Sjlihu  PiRolominil, 
,  enoU  oThlt  Uh  UliuCreud  hf  Flnlui- 

IcchUf,  It  SJmH,  C09.      Hl«  chapel  of  S> 


led  b»  Pin 


tn«BliiIiiia.  SJZ. :  TOr  S.  Michtle,  Oi 


urlcciiia,  a09.|  by 


TulenliiiavilhSJlUHilean,  1:16,  IX, 
the  aliglUkt  oT  tCCavMllo,  Tr 
Muntl.  ■fld  M.  COorio,  -^  - 
crifiy  oT  St.  Pitei-^  3K 

of  Cindelobri,  iTU.  ;  fo 
cslliotioii  at  urlBti,  4S3-  :  Emuia  ■ 
or  Capital,  m. ;  rliUDultid  bj  PunlltU. 
fall  InKriutlimi,  3§0.  Hii  pdctnu^  IB? 
HiikuHLngMiituB,  br  CancTH. J8B.,,  Hft 
•UliK  br  Penai,  393.  HI*  tonb,  3M  . 
Plui  VII.,  pope  (CbiBmncHitl],  hta  ttafc. 
nlue,  IDs. ;  BeocrUcUne  nuiok  il  CcB*k 
110,  uil  at  8.  PiDlo  ruori,  40).  1  a£ 
flei  l«rt  or  Peun,  117.  i  reptfn  lli«& 
limn,  3M. ;  excintei  bus  of  utkM 
Conitmtlpe,  3*7.1  m™  .ich  oTwS. 
ftoot  rum,  3<a  ;  niie*  utKllik  oT  IbeRK 
dm.  US  i  rhmu  Uui.  Chiir«niKiti,  <CU 
buiUi     KiuTO    Bmocio,    Ifii.  g    SnS 

CapIlaL  4DI.  His  nctvUmu  at  (MfMi 
Bli,  EiUlitlihei  piiaoru  of  Porta  tf"  AlS 
nit.     Hii  portixlt,  I2S.      Hit  boh  "- 


.373.  Hiadacrlp^Dn  oTIbclAod 
»a  ;  of  the  Doiei  of  tha  Cipild,  «*,  I  «1 
the  Dyini  dKJIatO'.  49fi. ;  of  tM  te# 
Saoioa«n>..S31.i  ofConoU.KajWftS 
hollow  EtouDd  of  Gatni,  fas.  Uft  tf.S 
N.tHllt..  •rithllgurei<iranImdi,«E( 

\or^^a.  "l^?Hl"MiHl'c  w  oOit 

in  the  C.pilul,  Ml. 

ulnrth,  on  the  lite  nf   Pomjiey^  Indlh 


:al,"c;^,S 


1M>£X« 


669 


Poagio  Oajella,  at  ChiusI,  173. ;  P.  Reale, 

Veli,  589. ;  P.  San  Lorenio,  O^teria,  176.  : 

P.  dc'  Sctte  Baeni  (Fidenae),  17a  ;  P.  di 

San  Cornelio,  hill  near  Arezzo,  340. 
Poggio  Fiorcntino;  his  account  of  the  tern* 

pic  of  Vopasian,  336. 
Polenta  family,  lordgof  Ravenna,  commemo* 
.    rated  by  Dante,  86. ;  their  tomlM,  and  that 

of  Ostasio  (14th  century),  at  Ravenna,  91. 

Chiara  founds  the  convent  of  S.lChiara, 

decorated  by  Giotto,  93.     Ouido  da  Po>^ 

lenta,  the  patron  of  Dante,  94. 
Polenta,  town  of,  origin  of  the  Polenta 

family,  109. 
Polesina,  marshy  plain  of  the  Po,  10, 11. 
J*olftti,  living  Roman  architect,  the  restorer 

of  S.  Paolo  Aiori,  406. 
PoUqjuolo^  Antonio^  Florentine  sculptor  and 

painter,  fl.  1425—1496,  390,  391. 
— ,  Pietrot  fculptor  and  goldsmith,  15th 

century,  210. 
Politian,  various  readings  of  his  Stanxe,  in 

library  of  Pesaro,  117. 
Polledrara,  part  of  the  Necropolis  of  Vulci, 

617. 
Polline,  hamlet  of,  592. 
Polo,  Santo,  village  and  baronial  castle  of, 

554. 
Pomarance,  Le,  village  of,  203. 
Pomaranct'o.    See  Circignani  and  Roncailt 
Forapcy  the  Great,  his  celebrated  statue  in 

the  Spada  Palace,  339.  516. ;  his  theatre  at 

Rome,  S3S. ;  his  villa  at   Albano,  570. ; 

his  tomb,  570. 
Fomposa,  village  of,  80. 
Pontaneta,  f^rontier  custom-house,  159. 
Ponsacco,  village  of,  204. 
Po.VT.\ssiEVB,  town  of,  78.  236. 
Ponte   (Bridges)  :  —  deir    Acquoria   (Pons 

Aureus),  543.  555.  ;  S.  Angelo  (P.  .Slius), 

304.;  della  Badia  (Vulci),  615.';  S.  Barto- 

lommeo  fP.  Cestius,  or  Gratianus),  305. ;  & 

Botte.  14D.;CcntC8imo,  141.;  Centino,2]9. ; 

Felcino,  1&3. ;  Felice,  i'lKX  ;  Galera,  597. } 

S.  Giovanni,  251.  264.  :  Grcgoriano,  220. ; 

Grosso,  140. ;    dcll'  Isola  (Veli),  587. ;  La- 

{o«curo.  10. ;    I^ucano,    544. ;    Maramolo 

[P.  Mammcus),  543.  ;  Manlio,  139. ;  MoIIo 

:P.  Milvius).  286. ;  dl  Nono,  683.  ;  Patoli, 

16:1. ;  di  i>uattro  Capi  (P.  Fabricius),  304. ; 

della  Rcfnlta,  594. ;  Riccioli,  140. ;  a  Rig. 

nano,  236. ;  delta  Rocca  (Etruscan),  230. ; 

Rotto(P.  Palatinus),  305. ;  Salaro  (Etrus. 

can).  178. ;  di  Sanguinetto,  24&  ;  Sisto  (P. 

Janictilensis),  SU4. ;    Sodo,  at  Veii,  .088. ; 

Sodo,  at  Vulci,  617.  ;  dello  Spcdalato,  580. ; 

P.  Sublicius,  303. ;  del  Terreno,  282. ;  della 

Trnve,  137. ;  P.  Triumphalis  or  Vatlcanus, 

304. 
Poiite,  Rione,  at  Rome.  298. 
Ponteilcra,  in  the  Maremma,  194.  204. 
Ponticino,  post-station,  207. 
Pontifical,  on  parchment,  with  miniatures, 

9th  century,  428. 
Pontificio  Pal.izso,  at  Rome,  514. 
Pontone,  Etruscan  arch,  on  the  site  pt  Gra> 

vi<cflp.  18d 
Pontormit  (Jacopo  Carrucci  da),  painter,  of 

the  FIoriMitine  school,  b.  1493,  SOB. 
PoHxio,    Flaniinio,    Roman    architect,  17th 

ccnturv.  M.H.  408.  501.  514,  515l  557. 
Popes,  election  of,  vii. ;  chronological  list  of, 
xxxii. ;  subject  to  the  exarchs  until  the 

Cth  century,  then  made  temporal  princes 
of  Ravenna,  by  Charlemagne,  85. 


!i 


Popes,  iHilaces  of  the:— on  the  Quirinal, 
514. ;  on  the  Vatican,  442. ;  at  Chaste!  Gan- 
dolfo,  567.  ;  castle  at  Subiaco,  552. 

Pope  Joan,  fable  of,  set  at  rest  by  a  medal  of 
Benedict  III.,*  97. ;  her  bust  in  the  cath. 
of  Siena,  converted  by  Clement  VIII.,  in 
1600,  into  that  of  Pope  Zacharias,  208. 

Populonia,  Etruscan  citv  of,  the  naval  arsenal 
of  Etruria,  its  site,  18b. 

Porcigliano,  village  of,  600, 

Pordenone^  Gio  Antonio^  painter,  of  the  Ve- 
netian school,  b.  1484,  d.  1540,  502,  503. 
514. 

Porretta,  sulphur  baths  of,  7SL 

Porsena,  king  of  Etruria,  his  mausoleum  'at 
Chiusi,  described  by  Pliny  and  Varro,  yet 
to  be  discovered,  172.  The  labyrinths  of 
the  Poggio  Gajella,  173. 

Porta,  Agostino  deila,  painter,  of  the  Florm- 
tine  school,  15th  century,  194. 

-^,  Giacomo  della,  Milanese  architect,  fl. 
1580,  completes  the  dome  of  St  Peter's, 
384.  :  his  pavement  of  St.  Peter*s,  386.  389. 
392.  399.  420.  421.  423.  427.  429.  434,  435. 
505.  509.  513.  52a  557. 

— ,  Giobaitista  della,  Roman  sculptor, 
16th  century,  379. 

-^— ,  Giuieppe  (del  Salviatl),  painter,  16th 
century,  443. 

,  Guglielmo  della^    Milanese  'sculptor, 

16th  century,  130.  389. 

— — ,  Malatesta  della,  his  commentaries  on 
Dante  and  Tasso,  1 17. 

Porta  (remarkable  gates  of  cities),  at  Peru, 
gfa,  di  Augusto,  Colonna,  di  Bornia,  di 
S.  Ercolano,  Marzia  (all  on  Etruscan 
foundations),  de'  Buoni  Tempi,  di  S.  Luca, 
di  S.  Pietro  (all  Roman),  251 ;— at  Rome, 
Angelica  and  Castelto,  303. :  Cavalleggieri, 
191.  304.*;  Fabbrica,  30a  ;  di  S.  Giovanni 
(P.  Asinaria),  302. ;  Latina,  303. ;  S.  Lo- 
renzo (P.  Tiburtina),  302. ;  Maggiore  (P. 
Prsmestina,  or  Labicana),  302.  ;  S.  Pan- 
crazio  (P.  .Janiculensis,  or  Aurelia),  303. ; 
a  Paolo  (P.  Ostiensis),  303. ;  Pia  (P.  No* 
roentana),  301.;  Pinciana,  301.  ;  del  Po- 
polo  (P.  Flaminia),  287.  300. ;  Portcse  (P. 
Portuensis),  303.;  Salara  (P.  Salaria).  301. ; 
S.  .Sebastiano,  303. ; —  at  Si<ma,  Camollia, 
205. ;  Romana  and  San  Viene,  216. ;—  at 
Vottcrra,  all*  Arco,  195. ;  di  Diana,  196. 
(both  Etruscan). 

Porta  Santa,  the  Door  of  the  Jubilee,  at  St. 
Peter's,  385. ;  at  S.  John  Lateran,  400. ;  S. 
M.  Maggiore,  403. 

Portico,  town  of,  78. 

Portico  (ancient),  of  Octavia,  at  Rome,  370.  ; 
of  Pompey,  338. 

'(modem),  of  the  Annunciata,  at  Bo. 

logna,  7(X ;  de'  Banchi,  tit.  63. ;  of  Madonna 
di  S.  liUco,  ib.  71. ;  degli  Scalzi,  t'b.  73. ; 
d*'  Servi,  ib.,  00. 

Porticus  Clivi  et  Schola  Xantha,  335. 

Portland  Vase,  found  in  the  sarcophagus  of 
the  Capitol,  taken  Arom  Monte  del  Grano^ 
492.  55j. 

Porto  (Portus  Trajanus),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tit>cr,  the  great  arsenal  of  ancient  Rome, 
595.598. 

PoBTO  D*  A.NZO,  town  of  (Antium),  602. 
Ports  of  the  Papal  States,  &c.:— Ancona,  124.; 
Castigliono  della  Pesciga,  182.;  Civlta 
Vecchia  (Tndani  Portus)  187. ;  Porto  San 
Cleroentino,  18&  ;  Fano,  12a  ;  Orbetello, 
184. ;  Pesaro,  117. ;  Piombino,  181 . ;  Porto 


■ntiquf  M^  lit  b\t  CupU  In  U»  Vittean 


nijiiB<,a(FiiiA  *.  isn,  II 

VMCte,  ibc  Ic^HoiHl  ami 

PttuuBiL  town  mH  H 
>  Hiimmtu,  FrmcoB 

lUkwddilSclw  SM. 
PHBB,  <BUfclkiii:al'.lii  U> 


Mbu  Pom,  TlDw*  of,  UL 

Pauuai^  town  miia  Boit  or,  dd  Ibt  Fn,  eO 

An—untu,  A«K«*,  iiibilR,  of  Um  I 


Tt  irork  ^utnl  la  laA< .  ^ 


-t-ons  Mi  .«•  ^^ 

Ml    I'VUU'I    i 
Fnmli,  'PmfFt    Ccurr. 

'"uT^' rf vtSw^"^  «B.  E*. n. I «-_ 

?rMHl*DIJ«^.(nHuid  It  Itamt^  1ft; 
iribcOi)iti«L  tSJ. 

MncK  KbsAl.  irui  cniurT,  Se.  ^^^ 

ni,  SI.  hul'i  BM  conrn  M  b 

'-■' '  "  "tsualc  iwi  s.  Plata* 

ludH,  Aiiwtect  «f  O 
cbunA  <i4KaiiM.ia>. 
TibKUB«r. 

Punpiu.  nnnna  Imilj  <d  Iftm 


ittit,  new  Suu  Muiiuila,  igv. 

dd  PbHI.  Euvirui  [nmliit  fnnlnT 
Puinu  Sner,  «r  BulDitu,  s. 
Palli,  eHi¥Mn>,  BoJDcnnc  nlfMf.  t 

Pjto^^'—K  "own  at,  Ibe  (MI  tfO 


-5l,tttV"  "  • 


'^ 


QunnUnc  nfuIUicni,  IH.  18T. 

tbtrcia,  •rnriHM  irila.  Flarcnllnt  iculpMr, 

.   «.  13U— lii^u.  aua.M8,iii}.t]i.  £h. 

OttttMOjiy  du.    Sec  Flammtnra. 
OiilnlllTui  Vtrn,  hit  i  din  *f  Tltoli,  MS. 


MMtti,  Aniimlo,  KulpUn,  pui^I  dT  B 

mi  crnlurj.ma.  ilO,  W*. 
Bsllroodi  In  ihc  Pi|«l  Stum.  S. 


JUimkaUi,  Cniv  jintem'a,  mUUpt,  oT  thi  Bo. 

loinncKhoal.b.im:^  J.  171'),  M. 

»-.. .,  « '--•Hrtmunalle. 

ar.OB. 


Xnutil  Pilum  It  Bo4snH.  GS.  S5. 

JBV*iir4(SinHJo).ofIIi£n^tlHf«lBUtH 
or  Ibc  Roaun  Kiwol.  b.  11S3,<I.  U80,  be- 
caiEd  till  jhiihI  at  Fietrn  Ptnuino  at 
TnucU,  SSI  I  HlroDlxd  In  the  Som* 
Atnllj  It  UrtiUw,  IW.  I  puInmiRd  W  ths 
■VIMS  (nllr  It  QUI  dl  CiMHIi),  IW. 
Hli  houw  It  Urblno.  146.  Hli  beutt  it 
Bomc,  SIEl  Hit  portHit  ■•  ■  boi,  br  hli 
""-"ir.lto.    aitommr—  ■•-  •- 


Hit  ponrau  ■■  ■  boj,  117  nu 
Hti  own  portnlt  (bi  macoci 

Mniiiir,  KH.  i  'laoOitr,  \a  chiiuo-Kunh  In 
C  Umtli,  JI9.  Hit  buit  In  Uk  Capitol, 
4M.  Snnt^liilMMIi.nT.  Hlilomblii 
th«  PantJiHW  (oixiMd  In  INS).  SSI  Hu 
wuki;— inPtTHTuui— <itAX>«M,  the 
Stnta  CeolUi,  31.;— ntCIMd  <H  CmtnUe, 
two  nudirdi  of  th«  CiucilliloD  ud  the 
Cruiluii  of  En,  I5S.  ;  the  AnnimciUian, 
fliTDKrljr  iha  ni^iiD  or  Cmxi.  Fncb'i 
Cmdnxion.  iAs^Ufengta,  the  Btiffii 
Hvloniu,  UHl  AdorHioB  of  Iha  Mul.  In 
hi.  CoiinoMaMII.  SSI.i  StJolm  cniGcie- 


lof  tbe  Aduanr,  vtti- 1  j 
Tnnpte.  and  Adomtkin 


Ib  th>  Sail 
..  .aiBDiD,  KXL  1  mo  AitgeU  (7)  In  the 
liBclof  the  SttOmy,  Kl- 1  PreMnutlon 
ini(Tniiito.and  AdBaUanorihaMl^, 
.....  ■  -l^---  SM..  0,1-j,^  a„Bl„g 
_  -.  ._»..._  _'  FihL  I  iT,  In  Pil  Bal- 
dnchl.  ilil.;  tin  diankiH  In  PH.  Cauiel, 
HI.  i  l<n>  dnwlBH  In  Al.  Donini,  SGE.  1 
rfoUni  or  Iha  ualb  ki  Caih.  and  S.  Piatto, 
SSa.  in.;— al  Ktmf.  tha  TnniOillira. 
tbin.hblHl  and  fcaal*>l  wock,  tSs, ;  -" 
lla^oulHd>F<ill|w>.«9«.|  (he  Corona 
•r  the  Vlrfln,  Im  pkturea  iona  Hnh 
In  (i.  Rumuw  and  F.  Panni).  VS1. ; 
nnddla  oT  the  ume,  S».  |  hli  voili-  ... 
fha  I.n«1e,  *n.;  worki  in  the  aiuie, 
Mt-tMT;  UpnlrMaaikedAwBhlieaT- 
10001,454.1  dciijm  Ibr  thonanoti  In  Appazt, 
Bonia,  48S.  1  Iha  EnlombniMit  of  ChrUt, 
hli  ant  hlMorkal  Hcl>'™.  MZ.  i  the  pied- 
cU4DflheMiiie,3H>.  I  the  rrofltct  lialah. 


InS-Agoilino,  411.1  the  Fdl>  Sibf  !•  in  S. 
W.  drill  Pkc.  4S9. 1  tiiKoa  of  the  F«r- 
n»m4.  £10,  Sll.j  [reKOH  or  the  Villa 
OlgliM.JOS.;  SI.  I.ulie  taking  Iha  Ponr^t 


SUS.;  or  Juhui  II.,  »7.  i  of  Paul  III., 
Sin.  1  of  Cinl.  CuIltlUne,  sag.  j  of  Bar- 
iDla  and  BaJdo,  jOK  1  of  ■  Violin  ninr, 
J16.i  1  dttwlBi  of  the  Uidonna  delU 
Cui  Alba,  In  SL  John  Lit.  401.  i  dnlnia 
or  the  IS  Aputln,  In  S.  Vinctiua  ed 
Anutulo,  tai.i—a  Sfoaa,  the  doitni 
d[  Finiuiicchlo't  fiHi  tVciceca,  iOH.  1  Iha 
luppoied  dHlgnt  for  thi  Jud(nent  of 
Paru.  bj  Iho  lime,  at  Belcin,  (17,    In 

Niilcclli,4I9.ideritn>BrthaP>1.Videni, 
EIS.  t  of  the  Pal.  Madaui,  S3S.  In 
ScvLnviB ;  —  the  ttatue  or  Jooih  in  S. 
B«*i-'    ■—..-.  ... 


jlnlTeaJetano,  hli  b« 


tiB'i  renoorbrlhe  ucd,  ISS. 
Haiinii,»IHigciif,  161 


oTS.  Antua- 


ni  Palace  It 


-to  Bolotna.  ft. I   to  Facnii,  Tft  1  to 
FnrU.JS,.  to^aot,  80.  Sl.i  to  BImhil, 

txak  ^W.,  painter,  oT  the  BolofiMM 


Kaixl.    SttStdam. 

K&  Zelirrino,  hli  life  of  BianiL  31 


RtftirBCFi,  arlgiiul  nUUgnt  of  (be  woriu  of 

Een^,  Kijffhtlime  ia  {.Ktg.UaUt 
^lh«  fibman  •cliiiol,  b.  I5S1 


Itaillui.lhel 
^a-STi, 


battlaar 


raUerr  (Ound  ibert,  and 

u,  4^7,  41S. 

.ttt  alu  CnidlUa.  Ma. 

donnat,  *^— •'  '-^t,  «U"  of  &  CUra, 

bodjof  S,  Cafwftia  Vi£rt.  il.  j  J^^  ot 

48,1  letter  of  S.' rrancli  Xailor,  M.:' 
mica  of  40  marttn  from  JeruHleia.  M. : 
beidars.PetnHiilo,45.)  bodlaa cT 91.  Pro. 
coio,  4£.  1  &  PiDOoto  Boldila  and  S.  Proc 
VtKTOTo,  m.  i  marUeplicbar  niid  to  har* 

It  Aubriu,  rclln  ofTl^iBa,  ttS.  I — at 
antuLA.  HBaUol^  174. 1— at  (MM  «  Cat- 
trlla,  &  ABdnw  Iha  A|nMle  aad  !<.  Plo- 
ildo,  131.1— Otiia  CuMHaH,  &  OrKlliaa 
BndS.FalielHlno,Hll.  1— Onlifa,  thu  Cor. 
lutal  of  llalaoiu,  167. ;  —  Otimii.  8.  tilu. 
Hppe  C'DpnUno,  1«7. 1— Prntfte,  the  Santo 
Ancllo,  rlna  or  onri,  eallad  the  Bcddlnc 
ringuf  (be  Viiabi.i54.^-IlBHwu,  S.  Af. 
ndlu,  OS. ;  S.  Baibalun,  87. ;  Si).  Cinfio, 


fjntUiia.  and  CinilinlllJ,  narlt'*-  ^  •  ]  KVUte  ol 'Bologna  tXKa  I.etla  CniputiKI 


IW-  i  of  tlfTW.  »t  Vollmi,  IS9. 

'iMk'daohH  0^  FRTUa.'nrit'wlIb  ar  A)- 

Ambb  II.,  pcoUctor  at  Culiin,  Oliinpla 

_^    Menu,  UHl  olkcr  rnHeatanU,  13,  U.  IB. 

'oSuUo  «f'H»il^  Rone,  lUi. 
^ ,  rutMorthc,  SIU. 

KfnsUL  Hi  JdAui.  on  the  Cjincci,  S3. ; 
>  «■  Mm  TnuHturallan  and  oilier  woiki  of 
•  IiMAvkD  (Uincd.  30. 1  00  the  naluei  or 
'    "M  Ajnttol  in  SI.  John  UUnn.  4WI. 


nan   Khul.  1617,  d.  Ifim,  fit.  SET. 

,491,508.51* 


INDEX* 


673 


MoHumdli,  Vrbanot  son  of  Oio.  Francetco^ 

17th  century,  224. 
Rtmijuib,  De,  his  work  on  the  Camere  Et- 

quUine,  355. 
Jloimmo.    See  GiuUo. 

Ronuuif,  the  ancient,  their  art  and  architec- 
ture, xzi. 
Rome,  first  view  of  Rome  br  the  Siena  road, 

232. ;  by  the  Perugia  road,  285. 
ROMB,  city  of,  287-^2. 
— — ,  excursions  fttnn,  542.  G23. 
Boraualdo,  S.,  church  of,  Ravenna,  68. 
Romulus,  temple  of,  at  Rome.  333. 

,  son  of  Maxentius,  temple  of,  at  Rome, 

SSS. :  circus  of,  343. 
Boiualli,  CristqfoMO  (called  also  delle  Pomar- 

amce)y  painter,  of  the  Roman  school,  b. 

1552,  d.  1626,  125.  127.  1S9.  132.  421.  425. 

432.513. 
RoNciGLiONB,  town  of,  233. 
Ronco,  river  (Bedesis).  78.  84.  100.  107. 109. 
RomdiiteUo,  Niccolo^  or  Ravenna,  painter,  of 

the  Bolognese  school,  15th  century,  90. 92. 
iZoMT,  Salvator^   painter,  of  the  Neapolitan 

•chool,  b.  1615,  d.  1673,  66.  226.  262.  (with 

original  letter)  421.  491.  505,  506,  507,  508, 

509.  518.  525.    His  house  at  Rome,  519. 

His  tomb,  425. 
Rosa,  Sta.,  canonlied  for  her  services  to  the 

Guelph  cause  against  Frederick  II.    Her 

convent,  tomb,  and  relics,  at  Viterbo,  226. 
Rosalia,  S.,  church  of,  Palestrina,  578. 
Rosario,  church  of  the,  at  Cento,  26. 
Boiarot  Constantino  da^   artist  of  painted 

glass,  16th  century,  253. 
Boiati,  Roman  architect,  17th  century,  418. 
Roscius,  birthplace  of.  573. 
Roses  of  St  Benedict,  553. 
Boieite,  architect  of  Ferrara,  15th  century, 

one  of  the  restorers  of  Italian  architecture, 

15. 
Rospigliosi,    princely   family   of  Rome:  — 

their  palace  at  Rome,  514.    Their  baronial 

palace  at  Zagarolo,  583.    Statue  of  Gen. 

Tommaso  Rospigliosi,  4S9. 
RoifeUiy  Conmo.  painter,  of  the  Florentine 

school,  fl.  1496,  444. 
■I      ,  Mattco,   painter,    of   the    Florentine 

school,  b  1578,  d.  1650,  198. 
^— ,  Niccola,  painter,  of  the  Ferrarese  school, 

11.  1668,  18. 
JRossetlini,  Bernardo,  Florentine   architect, 

11.1450.381.431. 
BoMtetU^    Giovanni    PaoiOy     of    Volterra, 

painter,  nephew  and  puiAl  of  Daniele  da 

Volterra,  fl.  1568,  20a  902. 
Rossi,  Count,  prime  minister  of  Pius  IX.  in 

1848,  scene  of  his  assassinatiou,  504. 
^— ,  De*,  his  work  on  Trajan *s  (Column,  341. 
Ro$*i,  Properxia  </«*,**  the  Bolognese  Sap. 

pho,**  painter,  sculptor,  engraver  and  mu. 

slcian.  16th  century,  43.  45, 46.    Her  cele- 
brated cameos  on  p«K:h  stones,  64. 
^— .  Antonio  de%  painter,  of  the  BologncM 

school,  18th  century.  47. 
,  Giacomo  dc\  Bolognese  sculptor,  19th 

century,  50. 
*— ,  Anielo,  Roman  sculptor,  17th  century, 

389.  39*,  4(JU. 

,  Gio.  MattfOt  Roman  architect,  18th 
eentury,  ^i  5U3. 
^— ,  Oioth  Antonio,  Roman  architect,  17th 

century,  409. 
Rossini,  the  composer,   his  birtbplaoo  at 
Pasaro,]16.    His  house  at  Bologna,  66. 
C§ni.  IL 


Ro8»o  Fhrentino,  painter,  of  the  Florentine 
school,  d.  1541, 151.  15a  254. 

Rovardia,  card.,  his  tomb  (15th  century),419. 

Rovere  family,  their  court  at  Urbino,  cele- 
brated by  Ariosto,  116.  Their  palace  and 
villa  of  Imperiale  at  Pesaro,  117.  Frescoes 
Illustrating  their  origin,  by  Fred.  Zuccari, 
131.  Become  Dukes  of  Urbino  by  the 
marriage  of  Giovanni  Rovere  to  the  daugh- 
ter of  Federigo  di  Montefeltro,  143. 

— — ,  Giovanni  della,  nephew  of  Julius  II., 
marries  Giovanna,  daughter  of  Federigo 
di  Montefeltro,  143.  Their  tombs  at 
Sinigallia,  12L 

-^,  Francesco  Maria  I.,  nephew  of  Julius 
II.,  succeeds  to  the  dukedom  of  Urbino  on 
the  death  of  Guid'  Ubaldo,  144. ;  commands 
the  papal  army  at  Mirandola,  is  defeated  at 
Casalecchio,  71.}  murders  the  cardinal 
legate  Alidosi,  patronises  Raphael,  144. 
His  MS.  biography  by  Leoni,  with  Clovio's 
miniatures,  484. 

— ,  Leonora  Gonsaga,  wife  of  Fran.  Maria 
I.,  builds  the  Imperiale  at  Pesaro,  to  sur. 
prise  him  on  his  return  flrom  his  cam- 
paigns. 117. 

,  Guid'  Ubaldo  II.,  successor  of  Francesco 

Mjiria  L,  144. ;   encourages  the  manufac-  ' 
tories  of  Pesaro,  117. 

,  Francesco  Maria   II.,  succee<ls  Guid* 

Ubaldo  II.  in  1574 ;  abdicates  in  favour  of 
the  Church  In  1626,  144.  ;  enlarges  the 
port  of  Pesaro,  1 17.  His  chapel  at  Loreto, 
131.  ;  presents  the  380  pots  of  Raphael 
ware  to  Loreto,  133. 

,  Card.  Cristoforo  della,  tomb  and  monu  • 

ment,  430. 

Rovere,  frontier  station,  78. 

RovBRSANo,  town  of.  111. 

Roviano,  village  of,  551.  _ 

Kovigo,  10. 

Rovizzano.  villaffe  of,  235. 

Rubens,  Peter  Paul,  chief  of  the  Flemish 
school,  fl.  1577-1640,  97. 432.  491.  502.  50ti, 
507, 508,  .509.  515. 

Rubicon,  fluv.,  now  II  Rubioonc,  the  cele. 
brated  line  of  separation  k>etwceii  ancient 
lUlyand  Cisalpine  Gaul,  110. 

RufHiia  Villa,  now  the  Falconieri,  at  Fras* 
cati  557. 

Ruffliiella  Villa,  at  FrascaU,  558. 

Rufflo,  village  of.  111. 

Rugone,  river,  110,  111. 

Ruins  of  Rome,  history  of  them,  313-315. 

Rupibus,  Peter  de,  bishop  of  Winchester, 
general  of  Celestin  IV.,  ddieats  the  Ro- 
mans at  Viterbo,  a.d  1234,  231. 

Rusconi,  Camiilo,  Roman  sculptor,  18th 
century.  391 .  40a    His  bust,  488. 

Ruscello  delU  Madonna  de*  Caneti,  stream  at 
Cervetri.  607. 

Ruselhe,  Etruscan  city  of.  near  Bagnl  di 
Roselle,  its  massive  ruins,  182. 

Ruspoli,  princely  fiunily  of  Rome,  their 
palsce  at  Rome,  515. ;  their  feudal  palace 
at  Cervetri.  607. 

Rimai,  town  of,  79. 

Rustica,  La,  village  of  (Ustlca  of  Horace), 
553. 

Rustickino,  Franeeteo  (RutticOf  painter,  of 
the  Siencse  school,  d.  16S5, 811, 212. 

Saba,  S.,  church  of,  Rome,  4861 
SabatelU,  Lodovioo,  modern  painter,  of  the 
Floxentlnc  tcboola  S99. 

Q  O 


INDEX. 


675 


Savio,  river  (Sapis).  103. 109.  111. 

SbaragUa,  the  philosopher,  his  monument, 
G8. 

Scacchi,  the  philosopher,  his  birthplace,  126. 

ScaU  Santa,  at  St.  John  Lateran,  408. ;  Regia, 
at  the  Vatican,  -US. 

Scallger,  his  Ma  Notes  in  Barberiiii  Li- 
brary, 501. 

Scalxa,  Ippoiito,  sculptor,  of  the  school  of 
Michael  Angelo,  at  Orvieto,  16th  century, 
167.  St.  Thomas,  ib.  The  Pieta,  his  mas- 
terpiece, 168.     His  St.  Sebastian,  169. 

Scalzacane,  site  of  a  Roman  villa,  55i. 

ScaUi,  Oli,  church  and  portico  of,  at  Bo- 
logna, 73. 

Scatninouit  Rqffhele,  painter  of  Borgo  San 
Sepolcro,  158. 

SeandctiarL  theatrical  painter  of  Bologna, 
pupil  of  Uibicna,  69. 

ScartAelli^  Anastasio,  painter,  of  the  Bolog- 
nese  school,  18th  century,  62. 

Scaramuccia^  Luisi,  painter,  of  the  Bolog. 
nese  school,  and  pupil  of  Ouido,  b.  1616, 
d.  1680,  6S.  254. 

ScarsfUinOt  Ippo/ito  (Scarsella),  painter,  of 
the  Ferrarcse  school,  called  the  **  Paolo 
Veronese  of  Ferrara,"  b.  1S51,  d.  1621, 
13.  16,  17,  18. 

Scar  pel  lata.  La,  the  mountain  pass  of,  554. 

Sehadou)^  Roiiolph,  Pruuian  sculptor,  19th 
century,  his  tbmb,  412. 

— — ,  JVilhelm^  modern  Russian  painter, 
519. 

Schidone^  Bartolommeo^  of  Modena,  painter, 
of  the  school  of  Parma,  d.  1615,  133. 514. 

Schieggia,  La,  village  of,  140. 

to  Gubbio,  140. 

Schnorr,  Julius^  modem  German  painter, 
638. 

Scholastica,  Santa,  sister  of  St.  Benedict, 
her  celebrated  monastery  at  Sublaco,  552. 

Schools  of  Art,  Ferrara.  11. ;  Bologna,  30. ; 
Siena,  206. ;  Umbria,  252. 

Schuckburg,  .Sir  George,  his  measurement  of 
Monte  Kadicoso,  76. 

Sdacca^  Toinmaso^  of  Masxara,  painter,  of 
the  Bolognese  school,  b.  1734,  d.  1795,  92. 

Sciarra  Pnluce,  at  Rome,  515. 

Scipio  family,  of  ancient  Rome,  their  tomb 
on  the  Appian,  3()3.  Sarcophagus  of  L.  C. 
Scipio  Kurbatus,  great  grandfather  of 
Scipio  Africanus,  MVx  The  ring  found  on 
his  finger,  now  in  the  collection  of  the  Earl 
of  Beverlfy,  467.  The  supposed  tomb  of 
C.  Cornelius  Scipio,  at  Paiazzola,  564. 

Scoppard,  John,  his  hospital  at  Rome  for 
Knglish  pilgrims,  410. 

Scott,  Sir  Walter,  on  Lord  Byron's  descrip- 
tion of  the  ruins  of  Rome,  358.  His  visit 
to  the  Castles  of  the  Lake  of  Bracciano, 
591. 

Scuole,  Pie,  at  Bologna.  68. 

Sebastian,  S.,  churches  of,  Cilt^  di  Castello, 
153.  ;  Rome  (Basilica,  with  the  tomb  of  the 
saint),  4<'8. 

Sfbastiam\  scu1i>torof  Recanati,  fl.  1600, 129. 

Sfbasft'ano  del  Piombo.     See  Piombo. 

Seccadcnari,  Ercolc,  Bulognese  architect  and 
sculj>tor,  fi.  ]53<),  44. 

Kecchia  Rapita  of  I'assoni,  28. 

SfKlazzi  palace,  at  Bologna,  66. 

Stgna  di  Buanvrntura.    See  BuonttetUvra, 

Segncri,  Paolo,  liis  birthplace,  6U5. 

Secm,  town  of,  580. 


Sejanus,  minister  of  Tiberius,  birthplace  of, 

221.    His  Praetorian  Camp,  371. 
Sementi,  Gio.  Giacomo.  pamter,  of  the  Bo- 

lognese  school,  b.  1580,  57. 
Sena,  fluv.,  now  theCesano,  120. 
Sena    Gallica,  now  Sinigallia,   120. ;  Julia, 

now  Siena,  205. 
Senator  of  Rome,  one  of  the  highest  and 

most   ancient   municipal    officers  of  the 

city  ;  his  palace  on  the  Capitol,  486. 
SenatCks  Consultum,  (i^>ocryphal),  at  Savig. 

nano,  110. ;  Another  conferring  the  impe- 
rial power  on  Vespasian,  495. 
Seneca  MS.,  14th  century,  with  commen. 

taries,  by  Nicholas   Trivet,    the   learned 

English  Domenican,  484. 
Senecio,  Lucius  Memmius  Afer,  proconsul  of 

Sicily,  his  tomb,  548. 
Senesct  M.  Angelo^  sculptor,  16th  century, 

426. 
Senio,  river  (Sinuus),  83.  105. 
.Scntina,  village  of  (Sentinum),  141. 
Septimius,  S.,  Martyr,  church  of,  at  Jesi,  122. 
Septimius,    Severus,    his  arches   at  Rome, 

348,  349. ;  Septizonium,  323. ;  tomb,  361.  : 

repairs     aqueduct     of     Caligula    (Aqua 

Claudia),    366.  ;  restores  portico  of  Oc- 

tavia,  370. 
Serafino  d*  Aquila,  the  poet,  his  MSS.  in  the 

Library  at  Pcsaro,  1 17. 
Serassi,  the  Al>ate,  on  the  imprisonment  of 

Tasso,  22. 
Serazzano,  in  the  Marcmma,  203. 
Sergardi,  Signor,  his  discoveries  of  Etruscan 

antiquities  at  Camuscia,  243. 
Sergius  I.,  founds  church  of  S.  Maria  Lata 

on  supposed  site  of  the  centurion's  house. 

Seriate,  river,  218. 

Sennei,  Cesare^  painter,  of  Orvieto,  d.  1600, 

267. 
Scrmide,  post  station,  10. 
Sermonte,  village  of,  160. 
Sermoneta.    See  Sicciolante. 
Sermoneta,  Duchess  of,  her  excavations  on 

Etruscan  sites,  190,  191. 
Scrodinct  Giomnnit  painter,  17th  century, 

1.00. 
Serra,  river,  183. 
Serra  di  Genga,  village  of,  147* 
Skbravai.lb,  town  of;  at  San  Marino,  115.  ; 

village  and  mediaeval  castle,  137. 
Serres  de,  Bernardo,  one  of  the  command- 
ers of  the  Bolognese  army  at  Casalecchio, 

73. 
Sbrrivoli,  town  of.  111. 
Servi,  churches  of  the,   at   Bologna,  60.  ; 

Borgo  S.   Sepolcro,   158. ;  C.  di  Castello, 

153  ;  Portico  of  the,  at  Bologna,  60. 
Servilii,  tomb  of  the,  at  Rome,  364. 
Scrvius,  Tullius,   his  walls  of  Rome,  301. 

303.    His  Temple  of  Fortuna  Virilis,  326. 

His  Agger,  S()9.    His  Mamertine  prisons, 

367.    Scene  of  the  impiety  of  his  daughter 

Tullia,  437. 
SestOf  Cfsare  da,  Milanese  painter,  d.  15S4, 

459. 
Sette  Basse,  suburban  villa  of  Hadrian  or 

Commodus,  555. 

S.ile,  at  Rome,  355. 

Vene,  Le,  inn  and  post  station,  285. 

Sfttignano.    See  CMi. 

,  p^siderio    da,    Florentine   aculptor, 

puplfof  Donatello,  fl.  \4S0, 108. 

OO  2 


5!asa ' 


bulJdl  S.  M.  del  Poiwto.  Mil.  ;  Wui'^h 
tine  Chipel,  H3.)  ^IId>  Ibe  UtaaaW 
the  VKllcan,  and  <i  celaiulsd  bj  AfMk 
lo  fiu  hliiul  Id  auimenting  iucoDcoUMh.. 

"^  ■  ■-"- -,  Psuceof  tsnss- 

of  Ihn  CipttoL  Mil 
of  Miirtno.  sSt  BN 


INDEX. 


677 


fipehiBOL  mountain,  846L 
Spenee,  Engluh  sculptor  «t  Room,  fiSS. 
flpnicm,  or  LoreCo,  with  iu  pot*  of  Raphad 
ware,  laS. 


PnMep\o  \h  S.  M.  Maggiore,  404. ;  restores 
S.  Sabina,  439. ;  rebuilds  Lateran  Palace, 
497. ;  founds  Acad.  &  Luke»  525. ;  regu- 
lates Falls  of  Tivoli,  548.  i  acquires  Castel 
Gaodolfo  for  the  Popes,  567.  His  tomb 
404. 
Smaragdus,  exarch  of  Italy,  erects  column  of 

Phocas,  345. 
Sobieski,    Maria  Clementina,    wife  of  the 
Pretender,  James  III.,  tomb  in  St.  Peter's, 
990. :  her  heart  at  SS.  Aposcoli,  414l 
^-i— ,  Prince  Alexander,  his  tomb,  417. 
Socinus,  Faustus,  and  Laelius,  their  letters 

at  Siena,  S15. 
Sodo,  Ponte,  at  Veil,  588. 
Sodama  (Giovanni  Antonio  Raxzi)^  painter, 
of  the  Sienese  school,  b.  1479,  d.  1554,  196. 
SOa  S07. ;  his  masterpiece,  Christ  at  the 
Column,  207.  210,  211,  212,  213,  214,  215, 
S16.  21a  490.  511. 
SouLiANO,  town  of,  111. 
Soie,  Giovanni  Giuseppe  dal,  painter,  of  the 

Bolognese  school,  b.  1654,  d.  1719,  41.  68. 
S<d£Rtara,  lake  and  canal  of  the  (Aqus  Al- 
buUe),  on  the  road  to  Tivoli,  543.  {  ib.  on 
theVia  Ardeatina,  601. 
Sotimenet  FrancescOt  painter,  of  the  Nea- 
politan school,  h.  1657.  d.  1747.  268. 
Sdotmeo^  Florentine  sculptor,  16th  century, 

44. 
Sophia,  S.,  church  of,  at  Oradara,  11& 
Sophocles,  statue  of,  the  finest  sculpture  in 

the  Lateran  Museum,  498. 
Sora  Palace  at  Rome,  516. 
Smracte,  Monte,  279. ;  excursion  to,  S8S 
Sorano,  village  of,  on  an  unknown  Etruscan 

site,  680. 
Sorbolungo,  village  of,  139. 
Saria^  Gio.  SatUita^  Roman  architect,  d. 

1651.  4I&  421,  422.  432. 
Sorri^  Pietro,  painter,  of  the  Sienese  school, 

b.  1556,  d.  1622, 212. 
Soter,  C.  Aufestius,  his  tomb  at  Tivoli,  550. 
Sovana,  village  of  (Suana),  619,  eSO. 
Sovara,  river,  159l 
Soubise,  Madame  de,  and  her  son  Jean  de 

Parthenai,  at  Ferrara,  13, 14. 
Spada,  princely  family  of  Rome,  thdr  pa- 
lace at  Rome,  516. ;  villa,  321.    Card.,  hia 
portrait  by  Ouido,  518. 
S^adOt   Lionei/Of  painter  of  the  Bolognese 
school,  b.  1576,  d.  1622,  32.  47.  48,  54.  64. 
503.516. 
S^tagna,  I.0,  painter,  of  the  Umbrian  school, 
pupil  of  Perugino.  fl.  1524,  253,  257.  265, 
866.  867.  878,  873.  879. 
Spe^tnoleUo  (Giuseppe  Ribera\  painter,  of 
the  Neapollun  school,  bom  of  Spanish 
pucnu  in  Oallipoli,  1593,  d.  1656, 2ia  500, 
501.  505.  514. 
S|»alding,  his  work  on  Italy  and  the  Italian 
Itlanda,  xxviii. :  his  remarks  on  the  Ar« 
cadlan  Acad..  525. 
SSpanifth  College,  founded  by  Card.  Albornos, 

at  Bologna,  65. 
ftMUtian,  on  the  Baths  of  Cacacalla.  350. 
Sfeeckit  Atetsandrot  Roman  architect,  I8th 

century,  378. 
Spsiao,  town  of  (Colonia  Julia  HispeHuai), 


Spina,    Pelasgic  city  on   the  Po  (now  Ar- 

genta),  80. 
Spinaxxit  Innocenxio,  Florentine   sculptor. 

18th  century,  392. 
Spineticum  Ostium,  8a 
SpoLBTo,  city  of  (Spoletium),  272. 
—  Lombard  Dukes  of,  272. 
Spoliarium  and  Vivarium,  37L 
Sporting  at  Rome,  29  J. ;  in  the  Maremma, 

183. 
Stackelberg,  Baron,  his  researches  at  Tar- 

quinii,  613. 
StagiOt  of  Pietra  Santa,  sculptor,  16th  cen. 

tury,  199. 
Staffa  Palace,  now  Connestabili,  at  Perugia, 

261.  * 

Steggia  river,  193.  205. 
Stalonia,  Etruscan  city  of,  now  Castro  (P). 

620.  ^ 

Stanislaus  Kostka,  St.,  tomb  of,  412. 
SUnze  of  Raphael,  at   the  Vatican,  448.; 

the  Segnatura,  449. ;    Heliodorus,    450. ; 

Incendio  del  Borgo,  452. ;   Sala  di   Co- 

stantino,  453. 
Statilius  Taurus,  amphitheatre  of,  at  Rome, 

SUtistics  of  Rome.  29.5. 

Statins,  on  tomb  of  Priscllla,  364. 

Steamers  from  Ancona  to  the  Levant  and 

I'rieste,  126,  127. ;  on  the  Tiber,  280. 
Stefancschi,  Cardinal,  his  tomb,  431. 
Stefano,  S.,  churches  of,  at  Bologna,  41. ;  at 

Rome  (Rotondo),  440. 
Stcllata,  frontier  custom  house,  10. 
Stephanus  Byaantinus,  MS.  of  the  5th  cen- 
tury, 252. 
Stern,  Raphael,  German  architect  at  Rome, 

fl.  1807.  46a 
Stcrza,  river,  804. 
Stesichorus,   ancient  Greek    engraver,   his 

Iliac  Uble  in  the  Capitol,  493. 
Stoldx,  sculptor   at    Rome,    18th  century, 

392. 
Storta,  La,  post  station,  286. ;  torrent,  587. 
Strabo  on  the  mausoleum  of  Augustus,  355.; 
on  the  Cloaca  Max.,  369. ;  on  the  Aquse 
Albuls  (Solfatara),  544.;  on  the  Temple 
of  Diana  at  Ariccia,  571 ;  on  Agylla  and 
Caire,  607. 
Stracctacappe,  crater  of,  592. 
Strettura,  La,  post  station,  275. 
Strozzi,  family,  their  baronial  mansion  at 
Lunghezza,  585. :  tomb  of  lltus  Vespasian 
and  Ercole,  16, 17. 
Strutt,  English  landscape  painter  at  Rome, 

523. 
Studios  of  Artists  at  Rome.  ^1,  522. 
Stuart,  Royal  House  of,  their  monument  in 
St  Peter  s,  by  Canova,  890. ;  their  tomb 
in  the  Orotte  Vaticane.  398. 

,  James,  the  Pretender,   his  house  at 

Rome,  513. :  his  visits  to  the  Camaldoli  at 
Frascati,500. 
,  Charles  Edward,  the  yotmg  Pre- 
tender, his  monument  at  Frascati,  erected 
bv  his  brother.  Cardinal  York,  55&  See 
also  Sobieski  and  York. 
SuBiACo,  town  and  feudal  castle  of  (Sub* 

laqueum),  551. 
Suburra,  celebrated  street  of  ancient  Rome. 

43a 
Succinium,  andcnt  city  of,  engulphed  in  the 

Lacus  Ciminl,  832. 
Sudarium  of  St.  veronica  in  St  PMer'a,  387. 
o  o  S 


Tnrqiilnii,  Etrmc»n  ritj  of  {Cl 


_      . . .  dniar  and  ^ux, 

E9S.;  U  Fulrilrhui  (FisneiU),  FoHune, 


Sn.  I  at  Romi,  IEmcuIi^v 

I>l«uiRc<UcuIu,3Mt  Fm 

US.  1  Fonuni  Vlrillt . 

—  •"  -  -im  HMut 

Uiiu'('),lSS^  nine 


Eirdiu,  S3S 
Vmui  ind  H 
VbU,  SS7. : 


'■llHMIaem,  330.;  Pio- 
iiiiiniu,  SSS.  i  Boiui,  333.  > 
\  Somuliu,  Hn  of  HHfln- 
ini,3M.;  SuiiiSSS.;  Vvui 
VeUH  wd  Cupid,  336. 1 
imt,  SS5.  -,  VcnuLan,  330-  \ 
a  Iji  Settrgiia,  Jupiur 
).  \  u  fpuMo- Concord,  Ju- 


oti.i    \eva,  aii.i  aciu  lOHOi  »bi. 

rnA-aw,  PMrs  of'  Cunn,  mixlern  k 
tor  u  Rome,  810.  iSS. 

eus.Ss.   "         ""'■    '   """"^ 

Ttodoro,  S,,  church  oT.  Rsme,  440. 
nubutD,  Bolognnc  •culptor.  60. 
Ttrtna,  •.rirlics.  or.  in  the  mhiva  a 

the  KMrtt  k'nowni  tB3.  :  US.  of  SMh 
■ttteti,  a.,  chunh  u  ™t  Fuia,  119. 
Taiun,townar(ini«uuiu},l7& 

.  bib  of,  (TS-s;«. 

Tern  CiUlu,  BomaD,  coVectioii  of,  Sta 
1>rn  dd  Sole,  ftotiltct  italiDn,  78. 
Terramnia,  fVs  A-dkti 

<1«76),  SGS. 
TenibUia    Ffmretco, 

Uth  ctniury,  is.  47. 


JrM,  J/«n>,  puinieT.  Df  Iha  BologDoc  Khool. 

b-nau.d.  I7B6,S7. 
TeMacdo,  Home,  M  Bibk  SOgL 
nvifpia.  Fnncb  •culptoi.  laib  cmtuir.  Sei, 


M3. 1  FrmmUi,  ks.  1 0*M(,  SH. j  u  IM<a; 
ESS.  I  Anw,  BiLbui.  337.  SM.  t  Msrcellui. 
,  sn,  i  I'nniper,  s%  ;  tt  SpoMu,  274. 
.. — ,  (modern):— «  BolaKna,m  i  il  Fino, 
isb. ;  Fernn,  £3. :  Im^l^M, ;  Bneoni, 
98,  i  Rome  (AlMnl,  ApolLane  or  Tordl. 
aoOM,  Aracntina,  Bunlllnl,  MeUun^), 

TheodoH.  Ibe  oBprtai,  wLfeflf  JuulBiAd.  bcr 

Tnndahc,  king  ni  the  EmI  GoUii,  otr- 

apiul  oribe  GMhlc  klnidoni,B},  i  baildi 
■  oUbednl  ud  chuicb  rUi  hU  Ailu 
bUian  HI,  ttt  I  hli  piUee.  H.  i  npn- 
•cnled  Id  MoHie,  91. ;  bli  nowsiim.  90.  i 
Rlmliil  rbr  lb*  d*fe  <f  BmnnL  lU.  i 
bulUi  eludd  of  ■palda.  t7&  i  hb  pilKe 
K  R|wMa,«T4 1  i^i^nnxunofFoMUT 

-  K ^ i^BiiTtZ 


msEX.  679 

at,   Emnenr,    bulldi  the   Hooad 
I  of  81.  P^a  fuerl  k  Uure,  Home, 

Aurellc,  Qow  Bignt  dl  VlcireUo, 


PiiuVIL, 


lS7;.d?^fi«I 


TKaldi.  Petttgrmo,  called  ■!»  Fellrgtino  da 
Bologna,  punier  and  arcbiUcl.  of  the  Bo- 
IwiKK  Kboo),  b,  1»7,  d,  1G91,  31.  33.  3a. 
SS:  SJ,  64.  6S.  ISS^^  131. 

BuloJt'nae  architect,  b."lMl,  dl"l5S3,»S 


iariM  Pil.  Sf  (:«a?i,°3(l*i 
.  of  Cem  and  PioieTplDfl. 
rhealte  of  Ponmej.  iK. ; 


Inforello  {JamiB  R<itmiH.  at  SUM},  pain. 

si.'sj.es.  sn^isi.  las.  491.  joe,  sos.  sob.  sis. 

Iraboachl,  hli  burt  In  the  Ca[d(ol,  4SS. 

Vila,  StnimMo.    See  CarMUa. 

•Uian  iThiimo  ff«Uilg),piInler,  of  the  V*. 
netlin  Khool,  b.  I4TT,  i.  1S76,  hH  CtlHo 
dellaHonela.  painted  at  Fenara,  It^llie 


Fortran  of  On 
head!  (?\,  ISS.  1 
£57.    Adoration' 


The  Lail  Suppa,  14 
.  lUecl,  (»  US,  Ta 
kxe  Horao,  Feruala  (? 
iTHiflaiKl  NaiaBcreL. 
PeruilB,S8i.  HadODIU 
dnia.  458.    r '  "- 


and  Child  with  Salnla.  US.    Doae  ot  V*. 
iotc«^45S,    VanHr>*8l,W0'    PoriraltaiHl 
Bintlinot  Chrlrt,  "'     "        -      -  - 
fone  Lore,  50:1;    ^ 
Gncei  blndlBi  CupU,  5(1 

sen.    Poctialtof  hb  >tL . 

W^.SWi.'PJJIG.    Holy  FamUy,  5a&    For- 
irall  or  Philip"    «~'"-"-ii-~-.-- 


Ponnlt  of  Paul 


.    The  ^•loui  and  the  Phailaeaa, 


af  the  — at  B(il(wiu,«l.) 

at  C.  di  CMtello,  153.  ;  M.ring.  ialii 
Hume  (at-  Monti).  Ml.i  df'  PctlHTliil, 
Ml.  I  Sieni,  «ie.— Boipitl]  of  T.  de- PcllB- 

TrptiAe/,  nvtnaKu]ptar»r  Hnmi*  .WB. 
Truau  vlllagaor,£^ 

TMrrfiol,   GiiuCBpe,   Boloaneie  ucbllcol, 

'Wh  wqtuty,  SS. 

let.  Utnbrlm  cllj  of,  now  T.>dl,  IKi. 
'rito,  Jaapa  da,  propeily  Torriu  (A- 
ipw  TVi-rUi),  uuHilciiC  ni  the  Florentifie 


IKDEXt 


681 


'  achool,  fl.  IS90, 401. ;  contemporary  of  Ci- 

niabue,404. 
Tumulus  of  Monte  Oenaro,  554b 
Tuoma  river,  218. 
Tkra,  Cosimo,    See  Cosmi. 
Turaminl,  banker  of  Siena,  employs  Bald. 

Peruiii  to  decorate  hii  casUe  of  Belcaro, 

81& 
Turano  river,  176. 

TUrchina,  htll  of  (Tarquinii),  at  Cometo,  61 1. 
Turia  torrent,  585. 
Turkish  flan  captured  at  the.siege  of  Vienna, 

preserved  at  Rome,  432. 
Tumus  Hcrdonius,  chief  of  Aricia,  his  death 

in  the  Aqua  Ferentina,  562. 
Tuscania,  Etruscan  city  of,  now  Toscanella, 

618. 
Tuscany,  chronological  list  of  Grand-Dukes 

of,  xxxvL 
Tusculum,   ancient  Pelasgic  city   of,  558.  ; 

ruined  by  the  Romans  in  the  12th  century, 

559. ;  battle  of,  558. 
Tutti  Santi,  church  of  the,  at  C  di  Cas. 

tello,  158. 

UbakUni,  Cardinal,  recovers  Ravenna  for 
the  Holy  See  ttom  Frederick  II.,  86. 

Ubaklo,  S.,  bishop  of  Oubbio,  saves  that  city 
ftam  Frederick  IL,  160. 

Udiite,  Giowanni  4a^  painter,  of  the  Roman 
school,  pupil  of  Raphael,  b.  1494,  d.  1564, 
447.  453.  483.  511.  538. ;  his  bust,  488. ; 
his  tomb,  333. 

—  Lodovico  dOt  painter  on  glass  (1485),  266. 
Ulignaiio,  village,  its  alabaster  quarries,  202. 
Uliveto  Maraiore,  Monte,  Benedictine  con- 
vent of,  218. 

Ulmat  Beato  Giaeomo  da,  of  Ulm,  Dome- 
niean  monk  and  painter,  15th  century, 
beatified  for  his  sanctity  in  1825,  his  body 
preserved  at  Bologna,  48.  His  portrait  by 
Bellini,  48.  Painted  glass  designed  by 
him,  57. 

Umbri,  the  aborigines  of  Italy,  xvli. ;  thdr 
ancient  territory,  264. 

Umbria,  school  of,  252. 

Umbro  fliiv.,  now  the  Ombrone,  182. 

Universities— .Bologna, 37. ;  Camerino,  137. ; 
Fterrara,  11.;  Maoerata,  135.:  Perugia, 
£260. :  Rome,  523. ;  Siena,  215. :  Urbmo 
(Scolopii),  147. 

Urban  III.,  Pope,  his  tomb,  15. 

IV.,  Pope,  elected  at  Viterbo.    224. ; 

builds  castle  of  Orvieto  to  receive  the 
relics  of  the  Miracle  of  Bolscna,  16n. ;  and 
institutes  festival  of  Corpus  Domini,  221. : 
bU  tomb,  253. 

—  v..  pope,  his  Gothic  tabernacle  in  St. 
John  Lateran,  400. 

^—  VI.,  pope,  builds  the  walls  of  Civita 
Vecchia,  187. ;  hU  sUtue,  427.  j  his  tomb, 
992. 

_  VIII.,  pope  (Barberini),  obtains  Pesaro 
for  the  Church,  116.,  and  Urbino,  144.; 
builds  Barberini  PaL  ftrom  the  ruins  of  the 
Coliseum,  315.  409. ;  constructo  the  baU 
dacchino  of  St  Peter's  ttom  the  bronze  of 
the  Pantheon,  ridiculed  by  Pasquin,  316. 
S31.  388. ;  strips  the  tomb  of  C.  MetelU 
to  build  Font  di  TrevI,  S5&  :  constructs 
the  outworks  of  Cast  St  Angelo,  362. ;  his 
bull  against  the  snuff- takers  of  Seville 
ridiculed  by  Pasquin,  381. ;  dedicates  St. 
Peter's,  383. ;  removes  the  body  of  the 
CountCN  l|atlkU  lo  Rone,  391. ;  reitoret 


baptistery  of  St  John  Lat.,  402. ;  church 
of  &  BibJana,  41&  ;  buikis  the  Scala  Reoia 
of  the  Vatican,  443. ;  founds  the  Barbenni 
library,  501. ;  adds  the  gar^n  to  the  Pal. 
Pontificio,514.;  builds  ColL  of  the  Pro- 
paganda, 525. ;  builds  the  present  Pal.  of 
Castel  Gandolfo,  567.  His  statue  by  Ber- 
nini, 489.    His  tomb,  389. 

Urbania,  town  of,  (Urbinum  Metaurenae), 
148. 

Urbino,  city  of,  (Urbinum  Hortense),  142— 
147. ;  chronological  list  of  its  dukes,  xxxvi. 
{See  also  Montefeltro  and  Rovere). 

f  to  CittH  di  Castello  and  &  Glustino, 

147.  i  to  Fano,  142. 

Ustica,  now  La  Rustica,  553. 

Utens  fluv.,  now  the  Montone,  107. 

Vacarius,  the  Glossator  of  Bologna,  sent  to 
EUigland  to  teach  the  Roman  law,  37. 

Facca,  Fiaminio,  Roman  sculptor,  16th  cen- 
tury, 1530—1896,  379.  516.  ;  his  bust,  488. 

Vaccina  stream  (Caeritis  Amnis),  190. 

Vadimon,  lake,  now  Valdemone,  memorable 
for  the  two  victories  of  the  Romans  over 
the  Etruscans,  228. 

Vaga,  Perino  del,  or  Pierino  BonaceoraL^ti' 
ter,  of  the  Florentine  school,  b.  1500,  d. 
1547, 208.  261.  (creation  of  Eve),  424.  429. 
443.  447.  449.  45a  483.  502. ;  his  bust,  488. } 
his  tomb,  3S3. 

Vaglia,  village  of,  76. 

Vafdi  Chiana,  171. 175. :  described  241, 242L ; 
d'lnferno,  SOi.  \  di  MugeUo,  76. ;  d*Orte, 
2£8. 

Valadicr,  Joseph,  French  architect,  I9th  cen- 
tury, 412. 

Valboscosa  village,  139. 

Valca,  La,  supposed  site  of  the  camp  of  the 
Fabii,  585. 

Valcimara,  post  station.  137. 

Valens,  the  general  of  Valentinian,  put  to 
death  at  Urbino,  147. 

Valentin,  Mosi,  painter,  of  the  French  school, 
pupil  of  CaravaKgio  (fl.  1600— 1632),  458. 

Valery,  M.,  on  Celio  Calcagnini,  17. ;  on 
Tasso's  prison,  22, 23. ;  on  the  house  and 
works  of  Guercino,  26. ;  on  Guido's  Ma- 
donna  della  Pietk  and  the  victory  of  Sam- 
son, 35. ;  on  the  St  Cecilia  of  Raphael, 
36. ;  on  the  Madonna  and  child  of  Parme- 
giano,  37. ;  on  the  Dogana  of  Bologna,  691  \ 
on  the  mosaics  of  Ra\enna,  and  the  throne 
of  Neptune,  89. ;  on  the  Mausoleum  of 
Galla  Placidia,  94. ;  on  the  battle  of  Ra- 
venna, 102, 103.;  on  the  murder  of  Oaleotto 
Manfiredi,  106. :  on  the  tomb  of  Boccaccio, 
193. 

Valeiio,  Giovanni  LtUgi,  painter,  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school,  171h  century.  59. 

Vallata  Romana,  near  the  lake  of  Tbrasi- 
mene,  248. 

Valiati,  living  painter  of  wildboar  hunts,  at 
Rome,  423. 

Valle,  Padre  della,  historian  of  cathedral  of 
Orvieto,  166. 

,  rietro  della,  the  traveller,  his  tomb, 

415. 

,  Filippo,  Florentine  sculptor,  18th  cen- 
tury, 391. 

Vallombrosa,  Camaldoll  and  La  Verna,  IIS. 
236. 

t'alioldOt  Roman  sculptor,  18th  century,  404. 

ratpatorit  Gabrtele,  Roman  architect,  fl.  1788^ 
5Wi 


Itti,  MUrwp.  (lalnicr,  at  lh(  FleintaU 
",i,'im,  ai;,  ,'pinw.ii.,'s«L'sw.sai, 

Oiirp,  hrmiurt,  Dimh  iwlnter,  pu^l  ; 


rrkleila.    Str  PtiTro.  tOTrmoOI. 
v! />Wfi^,  lalnier,  ^  tha  noitein  B 


«.  imitl 


«.4M. 


•*i»l.l.l3«-t«Kwir!11.      '  ™™" 
,   ft««H>i    winter,   of   111*  Bienw 

■>ibnD(,b.  tw,  d.  lAcso;.  Ein.sn.i  u 

Uo^  111,  Kit.  MS.  3*9.  '"■■'■'''■  *i^' 

~m  tnxurf .  i\r  sn. 

Ftmumia,  OSaMunti,  vniturct  { rirmml^ge) 

fmaUtOi,  Lirlnfa.  Rnoivi  arahluct,  i 
ITT3,   lit.    Itf.    I».    3».   <11.   415.   SOi 


I^nilui,  luppoKd  to  be  thcnriEln  gfOli 

BoitltDBlki  tkaiW),  et. 
V«ie.  Le.MHtnalim.  373. ;  LrSctUVOe 

Inn.  on  Ihc  ffiima  road.  ass. 
Veufili,  Pituio  dl  (Palnw   of  St.  tliAJ, 

bJ.ss."    """"    *■      "    '"'™* 
Vtmurinl,  premitM  nf     Michad  An«d^ 
piibllihn  The  Ant  eoraflHe  I.itio  Umc- 


.  tnnti  of  llw  Dvk*  ' 

bl>wl(^.t>TRinil<llDl.lfl. 
VirU.nnw  VlcD»ro,9»l. 


ill'  Hs"  i^f^  41*.  «i.«S.  ■!«.*»!  SO*.' 

muWTfileca  'in    ■RhTlHRUR,    SaS. ;    tail 

Umptinlfd  vlHlDwt  i^'akiiio,  V»t  on 
tbe  mdrnt  IMesd  in  Bulu  of  Tltui, 
3U. ;  en  ihc  wDtl»  or  BuMbukco,  367. ; 

U  1  Pnaxnln  <le'  Roul.  M. ;  SuHKlDII, 

im.*x.i  Luu  8irn«citi.  «\i  SdtLdii 

PtOnM.  to,  «U  I  GIDv.  di  FlH,  S3g. 
VtHiltB,  the  cddmted  wiuiinla,  h  li  Mitli- 

Vuliein,  pitoce  md  muifun,  M£  tiS,  i 
hlil«j,  Mt  I  Bala  R«n.  SiIb  Ssia, 
C((Hii&  SIXinn.  4«3-u£;   Capella  Aid. 

sunn  of  Rnibaa,  W8.I  CuoiHa  dcllB 
SegMtHn,  U0.;  nf  Ibe  Heltodanu,  WX  -, 
of  the  Inoeodlo  del  RorBo,  409.  j  or  Co- 

S.  livenio,  4&S. ;  ullen  of  idcluTH,  *5A. 
VS.;  mumm,  MO.i  (MlfAi  LniMariB. 
460. :  H.  ChimnonH,  Ml. ;  Harm  Bnc- 
do,  «3. !  Ite  do'  VentI,  IBS.  i  M.  Pto- 
Clawnliao,  Mfti  CorHle  dl  B^Tedne 
Portisoaad  CaMnatt.— I.,  4B7-,  II..  *l^— 

or  inlnwli,  (JalbiiT  Dr'atUDH.'4TI.  i 
Hall  of  Siula.  CaUoM  oT  Huki,  HiUI  or 
thoHiun,  Circular IIall,47i.:Htai of  Ifae 
Gr«k  C»H,473.  (  Hallart)itBI(1.4T4.^ 

Egiptlan  bnneh,'  479,  i  Oallscr  of  the 
CanSJialira,  Oallerj  oTMiin,  fei  Li- 
brary,  1»-4g4. :  AppurUmenB.  Borgia. 

VaDimna «u»,  nowthe SanlMno. IM. 
Vitxii  lie-  CloKiRnl.  painter.  i>f  BorgoSan 


«r»« 


Cfliut  or  PrsiiRIcs,  lira  anirque  Gorintf 

Ihe,  in  the  Vatican,  472  474.  i  tbT^ttl 
of  the  Capltnl,  493. 
rcnui,  tcIKpIn  or,   at   Aneona,    lE^  Hq; 

SiS.  1  Veniu  and  Cuiiid, 335. i  T«u3 

"'^nfz^Ml '  Sh  ^tS"'"S7°'5 

^enuil,  Bldolflno,  or  CottOTia,lbeBBtiqB»fe 
fbundor  oT  Ilie  Aooidemia  Etruaea,  flfi,  t 
on  IbebrnnaH  plundrrcrl  t^um  lji«  hn- 


Vergil.  Pol^re.  the  lul 


S!f>" 


iaa,l4S. 

*,  modem  French  painter,  sn, 
idId  'lOMiri),  palQIer,  of  Iba 

choid,  b.  1S28,  d.  isea.  IS, 


I'tTxrlll,  rrturiM,  of  CameriBD,  Kulfliir, 
ISIh  century,  128.131. 

Vnpaiinn,  conEtmcta  The  oaai  of  the  FUrhl 
lOrtbe  Vll  riamtola,  133.  j  found!  tiM 
Coliieom,  339.  i  hU  Temple  alBomtSSS. 

Vata,  temple  of,  at  Bome,  33T,  ;  at  'nToB, 

VCTVLU,  Io>n  of  (Forum  CinlO,  3SB. 
gao.  1  -  lo  Cornelo,  831. ,  to  Roma.  fiSI. 

eentlvdi>covercd,IS4. 
Via  MmyVit,  B7. 103. 103.111. ;— Ameilna, 


INDEX. 


688 


SSS.  284,  285. ;  —  Appta.  S59.  £69.  571.  £775. ; 
-.Ardeatina,  aui,  602. ;  —Aurelia,  183. 
.  190,  191.  ;  —  CaMia,  164, 165.  823.  831.  843. 
884,  285,  886.  587,  588. :— Claudia,  590, 
591.  593. :  — Clodia,  620.  622. ;  —  FUrainla, 
111.  138,  139.  142.  271.  284.  286.357.;  — 
Gabina,  583. ;  — Labicana,  576.  580.  583. ; 
~  Latina.  555. ;  —  Laurentina,  593.  600. ; 
—  Nomentana,  176.  —  Ostiensb,  593.  — 
Palatina,  305.  —  Praenestina,  580.  583. ;  — 
Portuensis,  597. ;  —  Sacra,  317.  319. ;  — 
Salaria,  176. ;  —  Severiana,  59a  ;  —  Tibur- 
tina,  543.  549. ;  —  Triumphalis,  565  ;— 
Valeria.  &»8.  551.;  VeienUna,  585.  (  — 
Vitellina,  434. 

Viam't  Giovanni  Maria,  painter,  of  the  Bo- 
lo^eve  school,  b.  1636,  60. 

VicARBLLo,  town  of  (Vicus  Aurelii),  592. 

FiceiUini,  Alessandro,  sculptor,  of  Ferrara,  17. 

Vico,  Lago  di  (Lacus  Cimini).  232. 

VicoTaro,  village  of  (Varia),  551. 

Vicus  Alexaudri,  598. ;  Matrini,  331. ; 
Sceleratus,  437. 

Vidoni  Palace  at  Rome,  518. 

Vigarono,  10.  25. 

Vigna  de'  Fredis,  354. ;  del  Seminario,  557. 

F&nola  {Jacopo  Baroxxi^  or  Barocci)^  archi- 
&ct,  b.  1507,  d.  1573,  44,  45.  63.  65.  156. 
227.  The  Villa  Lante,  227.  Palace  of 
CM)rarola,  his  masterpiece,  232.  264.  287. 
S.  Peter's,  383.  420. 435i  5ia  512.  515. 

yim,  S€uita  Catertna^  painter,  of  the  Bo- 
lognese  school,  sanctified  for  her  piety, 
b.  141.3,  d.  1463  ;  picture  by  her,  32. ;  her 
body,  51. 

Villa,  di,  Marchese,  defender  of  Candia 
(1676),  his  tomb,  16. 

Villani,  Giovanni,  on  the  murder  of  Prince 
Henry  of  England,  226. ;  on  the  murder  of 
Benedict  XI.,  255. 

Villas  (ancient) :  ~~  of  Cato  of  Utica,  575.  ; 
Catullus,  548. ;  Cicero,  558.  e08L  605. ;  Do- 
mitian,570. ;  Gordian.583.  i  Hadrian,  544. 
580.;  Lucullu8,557. ;  Mecsena-s  549. ;  Nero, 

'  552.  603.  ;  Phaon.  178.  ;  Pompey,  57a  ; 
guint  Varo,  548. ;  Sallust,  548. 

—  (modern):  —  Albani,  533. ;  Aldobran- 
dini,  535  557. ;  Altieri,  570.  591. ;  Baglioni, 
852.  ;  Barberini,  369.  560. ;  Borghcse,  &35. 
603. ;  Camugliano,  2M. ;  Corsini,  508.  ; 
Doria,  570. ;  Falconicri,  557. ;  Famese, 
3:21, 322. ;  Graiiani,  278. ;  Inghirami,  801. ; 
Lante.  227.;  Lanti,  538.;  Ludovisi, 
537.  557. ;  Machiavelli,  193. ;  Madama, 
538.;  Massimi,  538.;  Mattel,  370.  37& 
538. ;  Medici.  538. ;  Mencacci,  603. ;  Mon- 
dragone,  557..;  Montalto,  557.;  Muti, 
556l;  Negroni,  370.  539.:  Olgiati,  503. 
637. ;  Palatina,  321,  322.  .639. ;  Pamflli- 
Doria,  539. ;  Piccolomini,  557. ;  Rufflna, 
557. :  Rufl^nella,  5.'/8.  ;  Sergardi,  843.  ( 
S{>ada,  321. ;  Taverna,  537.  ;  Zollio,  114. 

Viminal,  one  of  the  seven  hills  of  ancient 
Rome,  309. 

Vincenzo  ed  Anastasio,  SS.,  church  of,  at 

Rome,  435. 
yinci,  Lionardo  da,  painter,  of  the  Milanese 
school,  b.  1452,  d.  1519 ;  97.  88a  434.  508, 
509.  .'>15.    Vanity  and  Modesty,  516—518. 
His  bust,  488. 

VInciguerra,  Maria,  his  portrait,  54. 
rincenxit  or  J'tcenxa,  AntoniOt  Bolognete  ar. 
tcct,  14th  century,  43 

Vine,  wood  of  the,  celebrated  doors  of  the 
Cathedral  of  Ravenna,  made  of  It,  87. 


Virgil,  MS.  of  4th  or  5th  century,  in  capital 
letters,  with  miniatures  and  portrait,  483. ; 
fragments  of  a  copy  of,  12th  century,  483. ; 
—  quoted,  on  the  history  of  Tatius,  177. ; 
Corythus,  244  ;  the  Tiber,  264. :  Clitum. 
nus,  271. ;  Tomb  of  Marcellus,  356. ;  the 
bronze  wolf,  490. ;  the  Albunea,  544. ; 
Tibur,  546. ;  Alban  Mount,  566. ;  Aricia 
and  Egcria,  571. ;  Labicum,  576. :  Temple 
of  Juno  Gabina,  584. ;  mouth  of  the  Tiber, 
596. ;  Laurentine  Forest,  599. ;  the  Numi- 
cu>,  601. ;  Ardea,  601. ;  Agylla,  607. 

Virginio  stream,  193. 

Viscontl,  Dukes  of  Milan,  purchase  the  so- 
vereignty of  Bologna,  29. ;  build  Cathedral 
of  Tolentino,  136.   Tomb  of  Card.  V.,  131. 

the  antiquary,  on  the  antiques  of  the 

Vatican,  463,  464.  466.  470. 

Vitale,  S.,  churches  of,  at  Bologna,  61. ;  at 
Ravenna,  88.  His  statue,  98.  His  tomb, 
42. 

Vitali,  Giohattista,  sculptor,  16th  century, 
13i. 

Vite.  Timoteo  della.  painter,  of  the  Roman 
school,  pupil  of  Raphael,  b.  1470,  d.  1524, 
37.  140. 145, 14&  161.  429.  5C3. 

Vltelli  family,  lords  of  C.  di  Castello,  their 
chapel  and  tombs,  151. ;  their  palaces,  154 
—156. ;  firescoes  illustrating  their  achieve- 
ments by  Prosperu  Fontana,  155.  Vi- 
tellozzo  defeats  and  captures  the  Duke  of 
Urbino  at  Soriano,  143.;  strangled  by 
Cesar  Borgia,  121.  149.  Giovanni  induces 
Raphael  to  settle  at  C.  di  Castello,  149. 
Paolo,  celebrated  architect,  154.  Chiop- 
pino,  commander  in  Flanders,  155. 

ViTBRBo,  city  of  (Fanum  Voltumnft),  S84— 
227. 

—  to  Orvieto,  169. ;  to  Toscanella,  619. 

Vitorchiano,  village  of,  enjoys  the  privilege 
of  supplying  servants  to  the  senators  of 
Rome,  223. 

Vitriano,  convent  of,  554. 

Vittoria,  La,  villa  of  Queen  Caroline  of 
England,  when  Princess  of  Wales,  near 
Pesaro,  117. 

Vivarium  and  Spoliarium,  371. 

Fiuiani,  Antonio^  of  Urbino,  painter,  of  the 
Roman  school,  17th  century,  119. 

,  the  mathenuitician,  his  drainage  works, 

242. 

Volano,  river,  80. 

Volpato  Giovanni,  his  engraving  of  the  Spo- 
raltzio  of  Guercino,  119.  ;  monument  to, 
by  Canova,  414. 

Volsinii,  Etruscan  city  of,  now  Bolsena,  8S0. 

Volta  family,  at  Bologna,  their  tomb,  48. 

,  the  chemist,  on  the  Fuoco  di  Legno.  76. 

VoLTBRRS,  city  of  (Volaterrs),  194--S05. 

Voltfrra^  Daniele  da  (Ricciarelli),  painter  of 
the  Roman  school,  b.  1509,  d.  1566,  97.  801. 
424.  435.  His  master-piece,  the  Descent 
Arom  the  Cross,  Ac,  441.  443.  446.  489L  491. 
510.  513.  515.     His  house,  801. 

yolterrano  (Balda»$areFrance$ckini)tV^niet 
of  the  Florentine  school,  b.  1611,  d.  1689, 

198,  199,810. 

Antonio^  one  of  the  Pass!  cmispirators, 

199.  802. 

Volumnii,  EUruscan  fkmily  of,  their  tomb  in 
the  Necropolis  of  Perugia,  851, 852. 

yon  Leyden,  Lifca,  tapestries  designed  by 
him,  65. 

Vouei,  or  Vovet^  Simom,  painter,  of  the 
French  school,  17th  century,  138. 


AM 


iTTMai  tt  the,  U  Ztimlo,  SSI 
tiu  nMcnu  «  UK  i^iKlHanhnta  HHnl 

licluteotfllfInK     U»    eiKOUrifleiiiFnL      ^' 

KViHglcA^.FlaiiihKulptDr.Iethcnilur 

W^^  mlneulnu,  of  Su  Surann.  it  Id 
IHU,    41,;    tlSt.    Purlik,    It  Orvlcl' 

W«lcni  Knpirc,  xw.  h  Hut  <^  (he,  fliod  j 
lUwinA,  l>r  Koooriui,  ^.    EKilni^uJihf 

WHtphilli,  Wnl7  at.  dnCunu^DU  rcliUi] 


WIM  bMrhDnlLng-giiHind.  1H3.: 
WlUliiai,BngU>buThll«l,anUicpii)otlnB 
Waitamu.  Pr*ry,  lIMng  EngtUh  pnlnUt,  >1 

Wlmnnm,  Murriml.  balega  Bolugu,  30. ; 
Wlackilmun,  on  the  ■nlhiulliei  of  Ranw. 

SM.37I,  WH.  <6e.  4Tn.  ve  tm.  U7.  tss. 


Fair  nfaiQlialUi,  III, 
WoirartheCiiplloi.  Ihe  criebruedi 

bmaciaa. 
WaV,  Prunlia  Rulptor.  it  Hotna,  41' 

Ww)di,'£n''gl1<h  iniMt^lfQ'n'hr^h 

Vfill,  RlchW,  Engll^  9cul)itar,  hi 


Xlmcno,  Cudliul,  hii  FoljBhit  [1511 

York.  Cirdiul.   bqlldi  the  i>ilaj 
cudliul  AiclprEtE.  S05.;  hli"  li 

cUl,  to  IfaeiraUDg  Pretender.  I 

■tnjfi  Ihe  I^mple  or  Juptlcr  Lsid 

Zabaffiia.  XiccBli,  engineer  toA  uel 
ZambecCAri  da  San  fjiolo,  i«la«  ■ 
ZmMli,  on  the  SehDol  or  Fattn.  IS. 


1 

•  Mini,     I 


''"SL,' 


il  Tftiur,  Si6.    EnUrn 


ZwscM,   o'imrpiK,   Hfltentlni    painter, 

Zoeii,  \)»nUh  inllquir?,  uid  wdter  at  i 

otM^OLhlilomD.  412. 
2qn>g,  jtfinTD,  painter,   dT  the  BulofD 


^ 


IMFJL.     J^ 


■nie  boTOwer  must  return  this  item  on  or  Ixfore 
the  last  date  stamped  below.  If  another  user 
places  a  recall  for  this  item,  the  bonower  wiu 
be  notified  of  the  need  lor  an  earlier  rettuti. 

Non-receipt  of  overdue  notices  does  not  exempt 
the  borrower  from  overdue  fines. 


Harvard  College  Widener  Library 
Cambridge,  MA  02138         617-495-2413 


Plcase^i^dle  with  care. 

Thank  yotf  for  helping  to  preserve 
library  collections  at  Harvard. 


^^l^oiinilttlt     i