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Baedeker's Eeisehandbflcher.

Baedeker's Guide-Books.

Paris, including routes from London to Paris and from Paris to
the Rhine and Switzerland, with map and plans 1865. 4 8. 6 c?.

The Bhine from the Dutch tho the Swiss Frontier, with 15 maps,
13 plans and 4 views. Second edition. 1864 4 s.

Switzerland, and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy and the
Tyrol, witli 15 maps, 7 plans, and 6 panoramas. Second
edition. 1864 5 s. 6 d.

The Traveller's Hannal of Conversation in English, German,
French and Italian ; together with a copious Vocabulary and short
Questions in those languages. Seventeenth edition. 1864. 3 s.

Allemagne et qnelques parties des pays limitrophes jusqu'k
Strasbourg, Lnzembonrg, Copenhagne, Cracovie, Bnde-Pesth,
Pola, Fiume, avec 2 cartes routi^res, 15 cartes sp^ciales et
44 plans de villes. DeuxiSme Edition. 1863. 2 Thlr. 20 Sgr.

Belgique et HoUande, avec 2 cartes et 14 plans de villes.
Troisifeme Edition. 1864 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr.

Italie septentrionale. Pi^mont, Lombardie, Yenise, les Ro-
magnes, et les chemins de fer et principales routes postales
vers ritalie. Avec 4 cartes et 15 plans de villes. Deuxi^me
Edition. 1863 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr.

Les Bords du Bhin de Bale h la fronti^re de Hollande. Avec
15 cartes, 13 plans de villes et 4 vues. Sixifeme Edition. 1864.

1 Thlr. 10 Sgr.

La Snisse, et les parties limitrophes de I'ltalie, de la Savoie
et du Tyrol. Avec 15 cartes geographiques, 7 plans de villes
et 6 panoramas. Sixifeme Edition. 1864. . . 1 Thlr. 22 Sgr.

Manuel de conversation pour le touriste, en quatre langues
(fran^ais , allemand , anglais , italien) , avec un vocabulaire,
un choix de questions diverses etc. Dix-septieme Edition.
1864. 1 Thlr.

January 1865.

THE RHINE.

MONEY-TABLE.

Xnglish and Frenoh fold, as well as French and Belgian silver, is current
in the entire Rhineland.

The pound sterL or sovoreign is worth in the larger commercial towns
6 thalers, 20 silbergroschen = 11 florins, 40 kreuzers = 35 francs. — But in
small towns the same exchange cannot be expected, as there are not the
same opportunities for reselling foreign coin and bills as in larger towns.

Prussian papor-money, exclusively Issued by the government (notes of
1, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500 thalers), is of the same value as gold or silver,
and is received with equal favour in Prussia and in the surrounding German
states.

Prussian silTSr-monej is current throughout Germany, the Austrian
dominions excepted.

English money.

French
money.

Prussian money.

South Ger-
man money.

Fr.

Ct».

Thlr.

Sgr.

iy.

Fl.

Kr,

—

— "

—

97.

—

2V«

—

V»

—

HANDBOOK FOE TEAVELLERS

THE RHINE,

FROM HOLLAND TO SWITZERLAND.

K. BAEDEKER,

With 15 Kaps and 13 Flans of towns.

SEOOKS ssmoir, BJETTSSD AVD ATTOMEVTSI).

COBLENZ:

KARL BAEDEKER.

1864.

LONDON: EDINBURGH:

WILLIAMS A NORGATE. WILLIAMS ft N0R6ATE.

14 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. 20 South Frederick Street.

The right qf Translation it rcwrved.

^^ \S1.67

^ 1

1 Harvard College Libia^-y

July 1, 1916
Qift of

A liawrezice Low&U

PREFACE

The principal object of the following volume is to
render the traveller as independent as possible of land-
lords, coachmen and guides, and thus enable him the
more thoroughly to enjoy and appreciate the objects of
interest he meets with on his tour.

The entire contents of the book have been compiled
from the personal experience of the editor, and the
country described has vrithin the last few years been
repeatedly visited by him solely with the view of
gathering fresh information.

The Maps and Plans, the result of much care and
research, will be of essential service to the traveller,
and enable him at a glance to select the best routes &c.

Railway, Steamboat and diligence time-tables, as
well as information respecting telegraphic communication,
are contained in ^^HendscheVs Telegraph^^ (10 Sgr.),
published at Frankfurt on the Main, and issued
monthly during the summer season. Implicit reliance,
however, cannot be placed on such publications, notwith-
standing the care with which they are compiled, and
the traveller is recommended to obtain the necessary
information from the local time-tables as he proceeds
on his journey.

Careful attention has been devoted to the subject
of Hotels, on which so much of the tourist's comfort

VI PREFACE.

depends. In addition to the more splendid establish-
ments, the names of houses of less pretension have been
introduced, to meet the convenience of a large portion
of the travelling public. Those hotels which the editor
and his friends have found particularly comfortable and
moderate are indicated by asterisks (*), which must
however be received with caution. Exactitude is im-
possible where changes of management are frequent and
where the treatment the traveller meets with is very often
contingent upon circumstf^nces which can be neither
altogether controlled nor foreseen.

The fairness of the charges in the different hotels
enumerated has been invariably tested by the personal
experience of the editor, or from an inspection of
numberless bills with which he has been furnished from
numerous quarters ; but it is hardly necessary to remark
that the constant fluctuations in the price of provisions
cannot fail to influence Hotel charges generally. Carriage
fares and fees to guides are also liable to similar
variations; but these items of expenditure, if given
approximately, will prove of service to the tourist, in
enabling him to form a fair estimate of the demands
which can justly be made upon him.

CONTENTS.

Page
I. Skeleton Tonr xi

II. Steamboat Navigation xiv

ni. Hotels and fees xvii

lY. Remarks on the Geology of the Rhine xix

V. Wine xxi

Fall of the Rhine xxix

Average breadth of the Rhine xxix

Depth of the Rhine xxix

Length of the Rhine xxx

Abbreviations . xxx

Route
"^ 1. From Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle 1

\ 2. Aix-la-Chapelle ft

3. From Aix-Ia-Chapelle to Dusseldorf, Crefeld and Ruhrort .... 10

\ 4. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne 12

5. From Rotterdam to Dnsseldorf 13

6. Diisseldorf IS

7. From Dnsseldorf to Dortmund by Elberfeld 20

8. From Dortmund to Diisseldorf by Oberhausen 23

9. From Diisseldorf to Cologne 24

\ 10. Cologne 25

11. From Cologne to Crefeld and Cleve 3^

12. From Cologne to Frankfurt by Giesseu 40

"^ 13. The Rhine from Cologne to Bonn 42

yf 14. Bonn 43

'^ 15. The Rhine from Bonn to Remagen 4&

16. The Seven Mountains (Siebengebirge) 53

17. The Valley of the Ahr 56

Xi8. The Rhine from Kemagen to Coblenz 61

19. Brohlthal, Laacher See, Lava quarries of Niedermendig 69

'^-^. Coblena 75

VIII CONTENTS.

Route Page

.-'-^. Ehrenbreitstein 80

22. From Coblenz to Wetxlar. Ems and the Valley of the Lahn . • 82

23. From Coblens to Wiesbaden. Railway jonrney 87

^ 24. The Rhine from Coblens to St. G oar £0

25. The Rhine from St. Qoar to Bingen 98

^ 26. Bingen 105

27. The Niederwald 107

28. From Bingen to Saarbriicken 109

29. Kreuznach and its environs . 112

30. From Saarbrucken to Treves and Luxembourg 114

31. Treves 117

32. The Moselle from Treves to Coblens 121

33. The Volcanic Eifel 126

34. The Rhine from Bingen to Mayence. The Rheingau 133

35. Mayence 138

36. From Mayence to Cologne. Railway Journey 146

37. Wiesbaden 149

38. Schwalbach and Schlangenbad 154

39. Frankfurt 156

40. From Frankfurt to Mayence and Wiesbaden. Taunus Railway.
Excursion to the Taunus 166

41. From Frankfurt to Heidelberg 171

42. The Odenwald 175

^43. Heidelberg 179

'^44. Mannheim and Schwetzingen 186

45. The Bavarian-Rhenish Palatinate. Donnersberg and Haardt . . . 188

46. From Mannheim to Saarbrucken. Ludwigshafen-Bexbach and Prussian
Saarbriicken line 195

47. Worms 198

48. Speyer 20O

49. From Heidelberg to Carlsruhe 205

AO. Carlsruhe 206

51. From Carlsruhe to Baden 303

52. Baden and its Environs 310

.53. From Baden to Strasburg 316

64. Strasburg . ^. 217

55. From Strasburg to Mayence 322

CONTENTS. IX

Route Page

^^6. From Struburg to B&le 226

57. The Vosges. Northern part. From Strasburg to Saarburg . . . 229

58. The Vosges. Southern part 231

59. From Baden (or Strasburg) to Freiburg 236

60. Freiburg and its Environs 238

61. From Freiburg to BAIe 244

62. Badenweiler and its Environs. Bui^eln, Blauen, Belchen, Uunster-
thal 245

63. The Blacic Forest (Baden portion) 249

a. Mnrgthal, Hornlsgrinde, Mummelsee. From Baden to Grernsbaeh

and AUerheiligen 250

b. AUerheiligen, Waterfalls of B&ttenstein , Kniebisbader, Water-
falls of Tryberg, Kinzigthal 253

c. Hollenthal, Feldberg, Wiesenthal, Wehrathal, Albthal . ... 258

64. From Waldshut to BAle 263

65. B£le 264

Index 269

Maps.

1. General Map, after the index.

2. The Rhine from Bonn to Dusseldorf and from Dusseldorf
to Emmerich, the Westphalian lines and the Cologne*
Dtisseldorf, Aix-la-Chapelle line; Routes 3, 5—14 and 38,
between pp. 10 and 11. ■

3. The Rhine from Coblenx to Bonn, Laacher See, tbeValleys
of the Brohl laud the Ahr; Routes 15-20 and 38, between pp. 50
and 51.

4. The Seven Mountains; Route 16, between pp. 54 and 55.

5. The Rhine from Bingen to Coblens, Rhin«>Nahe and
Rhine-L aha lines; Roatee 20-*a9 and 36, between pp. 90 and 91.

6. The Niederwald; Routes 26 and 27, between pp. 106 and 107.

7. The Eifel; Route 33, between pp. 126 and 129.

8. The Rheingau; Routes 23 and 34—38, between pp. 134 and 135.

9. The TauBUS Mountains; Routes 37, 39 and 40, between pp. 16a
aud 169.

10. The Odenwald, Routes 41—43, between pp. 176 and 177.

11. The Rhenish Palatinate, northern part; Routes 28 aud 29, 45—47
and 55, between pp. 186 and 189.

12. The Rhenish Palatinate, southern part (Haardt); Routes 45
and 46, between pp. 192 and 193.

13. The Yosges Mountains, southern part; Routes 57 and 58, between
pp. 232 and 233.

14. The Black Forest, northern part (environs of Baden), Routes
51—56, 63 a. and b., between pp. 210 and 211.

15. The Blaclc Forest, southern part; Routes 56, 59—63 c, 64 and 65,
between pp. 246 and 247.

I. Skeleton Tour.

The following plan for a 6 weeks' tour of the Rhine will
be found to be the most convenient and expeditious ; it begins
with Frankfurt and ends with Dortmund : —

Days.

Frankfurt (R. 39) 1

On foot: Taunus (Konigstein, Soden, Homburg, R. 40) 1

Darmstadt (R. 41) %

On foot: Melibocus and Odenwald (R.R. 41 and 42) . 1

Heidelberg and environs (R. 43) 1

Carlsrtihe (R. 50) Vi

Baden and environs (R. 52) 1

On foot: The Black Forest, Mur^thal, Allerheiligen,
Renchthal, Kniebisbader, Tryberg falls, Kinzigthal

(R. 63 a. and b.) 3

From Offenburg to Freiburg (R. 59) 1

On foot: Hollenthal, Feldberg, IViesenthai, Wehrathal

(R. 23 c.) 2

Bale (R. 65) Va

On foot: BadenweUer and environs (R. 62) 2

From Freiburg to Breisach (R. 60), Colmar and St.

Hippolyte (R. 58) 1

On foot: The Vosges (R.R. 57 and 58) 3

Strasburg (R. 54) 1

To Saarburg and back by railway (R. 57) 1

From Strasburg to Landau (R. 55) Ya

On foot : Haardt Mountairis^ Madenburg, Trifels, Max-
burg, Nenstadt (R. 45) 2

From Neustadt to Speyer (R.R. 46 and 48) Ya

Worms (R. 47), Mayence (R. 35), Wiesbaden (R. 37). . 2
On foot: The Rheingau from Eltville to Rudesheim
(R. 34) and Bingen. Rochus-Chapel and Scbarlach-

kopf (R. 26) 1

Excursion to Kreuznach, Miinster am Stein, Oberstein

and back to Bingen (R.R. 28 and 29) 1

From Bingen by steamboat to Bacharach, on foot to

Caub, Oberweself St. Goar and environs (R. 25). . . 1
By steamboat to Stolzenfels, Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein
(R.R. 20, 21 and 24) 1

xn SKELETON TOUR.

Ems and Nassau (R. 22) by railway 1

By Moselle-steamboat to A^, on foot through the vol-
canic Ei/el (R.R. 32 and 33) 3

Treves and environs (R. 31) 1

By steamboat from Treves to Goblenz (R. 32) .... 1
By steamboat to Andernach (R. 18), on foot to Nieder-
mendig, the Laacher See, the BrohUhal (R. 19). From
Brohl by steamboat to Remetyen, ApoUinarisberg

(R. 18) 1

The Valley of the Ahr to Altenahr (R. 17) (on foot

2 days) by carriage 1

By steamboat to Konigswinter (R. 15), on foot through

the Seven Mountains (R. 16) 1

Bonn and Cologne (R.R. 10 and 14) 2

By Railway to Aix-la-Chapelle (R.R. 2 and 4), in the

evening by Railway to Dusseldor/ (R. 3) 1

Dusseldorf and Elherfeld (R.R. 6 and 7) 1

On foot from Elherfeld to Hagen (Wupper valley, Ennep

road) Railway to Dortmund (R. 7) 1

From Dortmund by railway (R.R. 8 and 9) in 4 hrs.
back to Cologne.
The rapidity of railway communication is taken into account
in these calculations. The pedestrian ezeursions are all within
the reach of any tolerable walker.

It may strike some that six weeks is an unreasonable period
to devote to a journey which, with the modern accessories to
speed, it is possible to perform in a single day, but it need
hardly be stated that a very imperfect acquaintance with the
beauties of Rhenish scenery is to be obtained by those whose
impressions are formed from the window of a railway carriage,
or even from the deck of a steamer. Such cursory glances
may satisfy those who are making the Rhine simply the high-
way to the more gigantic, but scarcely more impressive and
instructive scenery of Switzerland; it is hoped, however, this
volume may find favour with those who desire an intimate
acquaintance with this beautiful country and its countless and
unrivalled attractions, too many of which have been unexplored,
and must ever remain sealed to those who will not be tempted
to diverge from the oft-trod track. Whilst the editor of this
work hopes to be the means of opening fresh sources of pleasure
and instruction to the traveller, each individual, being the best
judge of his own resources, must avail himself of the time,
means, strength and inclination he has at his own disposal.

The railways by which in different directions the Rhine-
land is intersected, and the numerous steamboats which navigate
its rivers, afford so many opportunities for travelling, that the

SKELETON TOUR. xiii

enterprising tourist need ever pass an unprofitable day. Much
discernment is of course necessary to determine where the
public conveyances should be employed and where abandoned,
as in many instances the best objects and points of observation
are only accessible to the pedestrian or by private conveyance.
Much valuable information on these points will , it is hoped,
be afforded in this work. Those who are in delicate health, or
would desire to escape from the bustle of high roads and public
conveyances, are recommended to the following places, which
are particularly well adapted for repose after the fatigue and
excitement of travelling: Sehloss Burgeln (p. 247), especially
for single gentlemen; Freiburg (p. 238); Aehern (p. 217),
Oppenau, Allerheiligen (p. 216), the latter for gentlemen;
Garlaruhe (p. 206), Weinhdm (p. 174), Zwingenherg (p. 172);
Neustadt in the Haardt (p. 196); the baths of Gronthal in
the Taunus (p. 170); Niederwalluff (p. 137) and Geisenkeim
(p. 134) in the Rheingau; Loreh (p. 174), Oberweael (p. 99),
St, Goarshauaen (p. 97), Camp (p. 95), the latter for gentlemen,
on the Middle-Rhine; Honnef (p. 56), at the foot of the
Seven Mountains.

The trareller need faavdly be reminded that a superfluity
of luggage is a sad hindrance to the complete success of a
tour. It is a source of expense, anxiety and trouble, and he
who would spare his pocket many an inroad, and his temper
many a trial, will provide himself with as small a quantity
as possible of those articles which are always more or less
the "impedimenta" to travelling. For a tour of two or three
weeks the editor's entire equipment consists of an umbrella
sufficiently stout to serve the purpose of a walking stick, a
Mackintosh, and a small travelling bag slung over the shoulder,
containing a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings,
slippers, and the necessary articles of the toilette. Opportunities
for having linen washed and shoes mended (always to be
accomplished in a single night) occur constantly during the
traveller's progress, rendering a large supply of clothing totally
unnecessary. More extended tours entail of course the necessity
of a somewhat longer catalogue of requisites, but under all
circumstances the tourist is strongly recommended to avoid
being encumbered with more than he can conveniently carry
himself. The comfort of being able to quit a steamboat or
railway station without detention need only be experienced to
be appreciated. Travellers may often advantageously and at
a trifling expense send on their luggage through the agency
of the post.

II, steamboat HvngAtioa.
The Rhine is navigated b; more than 100 steamboate, from
the local vessels of fifteen or twenty horse power to the
powerful tug-steamers of upwards of {our handred. During
the last few yean the average number of travellers availing
themselves of this mode of transit has been upwards of one
million annually. Since the completion of the Rhenish rail-
way a considerable eaving of lime is effected by only employing
the steamers on those portions of the river which are re-
markable for the Btriking beauty of the scenery upon its banke.
The following vessels of the united (since 1853) Cologne and
Dusseldorf Company are recommended for their speed: "Hohen-
zoller," "Meritens," "Lorelev," "Prinz von Preussen," "Prinzessln
n Preussen." Those to be avoided n "slow coaches" are the

"Elisabeth,"
mania." These
number of sin
lands Company i
distances, and i
of merchandise.

nigin," "Mannheim," "Victoria"
noats ply during the sammer mondis to the
r seven a day. The vessels of the Nether-
e too oncertaia to be depended upon for short
e principally employed for the transmission

™.

biebri.!./

FroiD Bingto Id

STEAMBOAT NAVIGATION.

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IS

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Tbe fint-cUBS, or etate cabiii, situated id tbe stern of the
TCBiel and connected bj folding doors with the public cabin,
is of limited dimeotions and rarely occupied except b; invalids
and persons of llie highest distinction. It ms; be engaged
for a sum equal to sixteen times the cabin-fare. Tbe second-
class cabin is frequented bf the ordinary traTelling communitj,
and tbe passengers are of course free to any part of tbe deck.
Third-class, pr steerage passengers, are limited to the fore part

HM STEAMBOAT NAVIGATION.

of the vessel as far as the funnel. The portion of the deck
appropriated to cabin passengers is protected from the sun
by an awning.

2 children under 12 years of age are charged one fare.
1 child in the cabin pays steerage fare.
1 adult with a child in the steerage pays cabin-fiare; children
in arms are free.

Tickets must if possible be taken before embarking.
Passengers failing to do this should obtain them from the
conductor immediately on going on board, otherwise they are
liable to be called upon to pay the fare from the steamer's
first point of departure, a custom not unknown on English
railroads.

Each passenger is allowed 100 pounds of luggage free, for
which he must either be responsible himself, or have its safe
custody ensured on board, the charges for which are as follows :
From Mannheim to Cologne: 3 Sgr. for each trunk,

2 „ for a travelling bag,
1 „ for a hat box;
from shorter distances, as from Mannheim to Coblenz, or from
Coblenz to Cologne, half the above charges are made. This
precaution saves much trouble and prevents occasional loss.
Where articles are missing the following compensation is given :
for a trunk 30 Thlr., for a travelling bag 10 Thlr., for a hat
box 5 Thlr.

Single travellers unencumbered with luggage are recom-
mended not to take their tickets till the steamer is in sight,
as in case of detention the alternative of the railroad is open
to them.

Passengers provided with tickets of not less than 20 Sgr.
in value are at liberty to break their journey, provided they
signify their intention to the conductor before he collects the
tickets. Should the journey be resumed at a station nearer
the traveller's destination than that at which he disembarked,
the ticket ceases to be valid for the intervening stations.

Towards the end of summer or the beginning of autumn
Rhine fogs begin to prevail, in consequence of which the
punctuality of the steamers it not to be relied on, and travellers
are frequently subjected to a very vexatious detention. Should
the steamer be more than three hours behind the time specified
in the time-tables, the fare may be reclaimed.

Refreshments are provided on board the steamers in the
style of the hotels and at similar charges. Although it is a
rule of the Company that a tariff of charges shall be con-
spicuously exhibited, it is not always to be seen, and the
following items are therefore given:

HOTELS. XTii

Coffee with bread and butter 8 Sgr.

Table d'hote at 1 o'clock 20 „

— at a later hour 1 Thlr. — „

Ya bottle of good table wine 6 „

Cup of coffee 2 „

Dinners *'a la carte" are not recommended.
Travellers starting at an early hour in the morning will
find the breakfast furnished on board more enjoyable than a
hurried meal before leaving the hotel. Passengers are strongly
recommended to pay for what they order "on delivery.'* If
left to bis own discretion, the waiter will defer tendering
his account until the point of the traveller's disembarkation
is in sight, wh«n the hurry and bustle of the moment too
readily favour impoeition.

Travellers should be on their guard against the importunities
of waiters who offer spurious books, maps &c. for sale at
exorbitant prices.

m. Hotels Ac.

It is found that little variation occurs in the accommodation
and charges of first-class hotels in the principal towns and
watering-places throughout the whole of Grermany, but it not
unfrequently happens that in old-fashioned hotels of unassuming
exterior, as much real comfort combined with more moderate
charges is found as in the modern establishments, where
magnificence of decoration sometimes usurps the place of com-
fort. The editor has therefore endeavoured to the best of his
ability to direct the attention of the discerning traveller to
houses of this description, premising at the same time that
few hotels are deserving of unqualified praise or blame. As
has been already remarked, the treatment of a guest varies
greatly according to circumstances; a change of waiters some-
times disorganizes the entire system of an establishment; but
the attention a traveller meets with depends mainly upon his
own demeanour. Those who travel with a superabundance of
luggage, who are difficult to please, who find indiscriminate
fault, and who impose unnecessary trouble, must not be sur-
prised if they find their bills swell into proportions for which
they are not prepared. To such a class of travellers the
charges mentioned in this volume will scarcely ever apply.
The editor here hazards a few observations on two vexed
questions in connection with hotel management: the payment
of servants, and the highly obnoxious charge for "bougies."
As regards " service," the editor entertains a strong conviction
that the majority of travellers prefer a fixed and moderate

♦♦2

XYiu HOTELS.

cbfrrge being appended to the bill, but which shall insure them
against importunities for private donations. This desirable
practice is observed in the majority of respectable hotels;
where it is not, the following fees may sui'fice: 5 Sgr. or
18 kr. for the head waiter and half that sum for the porter
per diem.

On the subject of the charge for bougies two opinions
cannot exist; the cost of lights should be included in the charge
for apartments, a small percentage being added if necessary.
It constantly occurs that the merits of a really good and
otherwise respectable hotel are overlooked in the irritation
created by this paltry charge. Not only is the ordinary demand
of 5 Sgr. exorbitant in itself, but the candles placed in a room
are frequently charged for, even when not used; and although
upon remonstrance the demand cannot be maintained, alter-
cation and dissatisfaction inevitably result. If hotel-keepers
combined to discontinue this vexatious practice, they would
be conferring a boon upon their customers and essentially
contributing to their own respectability and interest.

Where the traveller remains for a week or longer at an hotel,
it is advisable to pay, or at all events to call for, his account
every two or three days, by which means erroneous insertions
are more easily avoided. Verbal reckonings are also higbly
objectionable. A waiter's arithmetic is faulty, and the faults
are seldom found to be in favour of the traveller. A habit
too often prevails of presenting the bill at the last moment,
when mistakes or wilful impositions must be submitted to, for
want of time to investigate them. Those who purpose starting
early in the morning will do well to ask for their bills on
the previous evening.

The habit of putting clothes and boots outside the bed-room
door to be brushed is sometimes attended with inconvenience.
The editor was once unfortunate enough to be despoiled of a
great portion of his wardrobe through this incautious act.

English travellers too often impose considerable trouble
by ordering things almost unknown in German usage; and if
ignorance of the language is combined with unacquaintance
with the customs, misunderstandings and disputes too often
ensue. They are therefore strongly recommended to acquire
if possible such a proficiency in the language as shall render
them intelligible to the servants, and above all to conform in
their orders and requirements to the manners and habits of
the country. For this purpose Baedeker^s " Travellers* Manual
of Conversation" will prove a useful companion.

Valets de place generally charge 1 florin or 20 Sgr. for
half a day, and 1—1 Vs Thlr. for an entire day. This sum

GEOLOGY. XIX

is slightly in excess of the tariff fixed by the police, but
cannot be regarded as exorbitant.

IV. Remarks oa tlie Geology of the Bhi&e.

For Geologists the maps of the Rhine-province and Westphalia by von
Dechen (Berlin, pubd, by Schropp) are of particular value. They are ad-,
mirably executed according to the Prussian Ordnance maps, in the proportion
of 1 : 80,000. The following sections have been published (price 1 Thlr. each):
Ochtrup, T^cilenburg, Lubbecke, Cleve, Coet/eld, Munster^ Bielefeldy Hoxter,
Geldern, Wesel, Dortmund y Soest, Warburg ^ Cre/eld, l)u.sseldor/, Luden-
scheid, Berleburg, Aachen^ Coin, Sieyen, Minden, Malmedi/, Mayeny Bern-
castel, Trier,

From Bale to Bingen the Talley of the Rhine is lake-like
and filled with more recent deposits, but at the latter place
it suddenly changes its character and becomes so narrow, that
barely room is afforded for the high-roads and railways which
skirt it on either side. The river rushes impetuously between
almost perpendicular rocks of considerable height, intersected
here and there by narrow gullies. Towards Coblenz the
>-alley gradually expands, the hills become less abrupt, and
the rocks disappear. From Coblenz to Andernach a broad
basin extends itself on both sides of the stream, which at
the last-named place again assumes the character of a narrow
rocky defile. Near Bonn the river again gradually widens,
and the "Seven Mountains" appear, forming the grand closing
scene of the picturesque portion of the Rhine. This chain of
mountains, in diminished proportions, accompanies the Rhine
on its right bank as far as Cologne, Dusseldorf, and nearly
to Duisburg; below the mouth of the Ruhr the country presents
a uniformly fiat appearance.

Thus the Rhine valley between Bingen and Bonn intersects
a widely extended range of high land, stretching W. as far
as the Schelde above Valenciennes, and E. to the Diemel
near Stadtberge, and consisting of upheaved and much contorted
strata of alatey-grauwacke and quartzose-rocky one of the oldest
formations in which fossils are found. Formerly geologists
reckoned these slate and granwacke formations among the
so-called transition rocks, but since the fossiliferous strata have
been more accurately classified, the Rhenish slate mountains
are believed to hold the second place according to age among
the fossiliferous formations. The oldest of these is, according
to the eminent geologist Sir Roderic Murchison, called the
Silurian system, and that to which the Rhenish slate Mountains
belong, the Devonian system. All other fossiliferous formations
are more recent.

From Bingen to the confluence of the Sieg below Bonn
all the strata inteisected by the Rhine belong to one and the
same epoch, as they contain the same organic remains. These

XX GEOLOGY.

strata consist of many different kinds of chy-slate, the purest
modification of which is the roofing'Slate. The latter is yielded
in great abundance by various quarries on the banks of the
Rhine, the most important of which are those of Gaub (p. 100),
whence it is sent in all directions and even as far as Switzer-
land. The clay-slate forms transitions to the kind of sand-
stone called grauwacke; it is here mostly fine-grained, and,
in combination with a quartzose cementing matter, passes into
quartzose-rock , which, on account of its great hardness and
indestructibility, assumes the most grotesque shapes, and between
Bingen and St. Goar greatly enhances the beauty of the Rhine
valley.

The S. limit of the range of mountains intersected by the
Rhine is formed by the Taunm, of which the Great Feldherg
rises to the height of 2708 ft, and the W. limit by the Soon-
foald, Idarwaldf and Hochtvald, the highest point of which is
the Walderbeskopf (2b IS ft.). So great a height is not attained
by the Weaterwald, Ei/el, Hohe Venn^ or any of the other slate
mountains in the range.

In proportion to these heights are also the hills which
bound the valley of the Rhine; they are highest where the
river intersects the Taunus and the Soonwald, but decrease
in height farther down.

Between the periods when the Rhine first began to cut a
passage for itself through the above mentioned highlands, and
when the strata forming these highlands were deposited at
the bottom of what was then an ocean, a vast interval of
time must have elapsed. In this enormous interval all the
fossiliferous systems in the world must have been formed.
The formation of the Rhine valley from Bingen down to the
sea is more recent than the deposits of the middle section of
the Tertiary system, called by Sir Charles Lyell Meiocene, in
which the clays of Yallendar and the brown coals of the
Westerwald, the Seven Mountains, and the neighbourhood of
Bruhl are found. Of an equal age with these tertiary formations
are the basalts of the Rhine (p. 73), which occur in the most
grotesque shapes on the slopes near Linz, Kaisersberg and
Ockenfels, on the Erpeler Ley, in the Unkeler Bruch (where
in 1846 a considerable landslip took place, see p. 52), at
Rolandseck (at the foot of which the railway has laid bare
some remarkably situated columns), at Petersberg, Nonnen
stromberg, and many other peaks of the Seven Mountains.

The Rhine valley, ancient as it is in the ordinary sense
of the word, is then, geologically considered, of very recent
formation; and the extinct t?o/co«oes, numerous cones of which
may be seen from the Rhine at Neuwied, such as the Garni 11 en-

WINE. XXI

berg and the peaks of the Hummerich at Plaidt and Kruft,
are still more recent. From the peak at Fornich a stream
of lava descends into the valley of the Rhine, the large per-
pendicular columns of which may he seen from the river (p. 187).
The valley had nearly attained its present depth when the
•eruption which produced this stream of lava took place. This
is proved hy the fact, that all the other lava streams in the
vicinity of the Laacher See and the Eifel have been poured
into valleys already formed. The pumice-stone, which extends
over the whole basin of Nenwied, the only place in Germany
where this volcanic product is found, must have been dis-
charged at a still more recent date than most of the lava-
streams.

In the flat parts of the valley, through which the Rhine
flows, at flrst narrow, and then gradually widening, are found
beds of ham and rubble which the stream has deposited.
Similar masses are also met with on the terraces parallel
with the river, at a height of 400—800 ft. above the level of
the water. The strata could only have been deposited by
the agency of flowing water, and must have been deposited
long before the valley attained its present depth. These
terraces are distinguishable from the peaks formed by the
uncovered slate by their long horizontal ridges; they prove
that the Rhine valley has been gradually hollowed out by the
action of water, though its rugged aspect might give rise to
the conjecture that it had been tbe scene of some mighty
convulsion of nature.

V. Wine.i

Wine is a subject which the traveller who visits the land
of the grape will naturally expect to be treated of. It is far
too comprehensive to receive justice in a work necessarily so
limited a*) a guide-book, but as a highly important article of
commerce, as a peculiar feature of the country, the object of
the unwearying industry of a large population, as forming an
article of luxury by which the most homely taste and the
most refined palate may alike be gratified, and lastly as a
poetic theme from the days of Anacreon to the present time,
no work of this character could be considered complete, which
•did not make some brief mention of the grape, its culture
and produce.

' For fuller information on this subject, the traveller is referred to
<*Some Words on Rhine Wines," an interesting pamphlet which may be,
procured of the principal booksellers in the lihiueland.

WINE. XXIII

Moselle, indeed of all who use the German wines, from the
uric acid diathesis ; and if Liebig should be considered under
the influence of national partiality. Dr. Prout, and many others
who have investigated the subject without prejudice or favor,
may be mentioned as entertaining the same opinion. There
cannot be a greater error than indiscriminately to denounce
the acidity of wine — the ktnd of acid present is, however, an
important point, and tartaric acid is the best; bat there is
another advantage possessed by Rhenish wines, which stands out
in prominent relief, namely the total absence of brandy, with
which the wines of Spain, Portugal and Sicily are invariably
saturated, to the utter destruction of their natural flavour and in-
jury to the health of the consumer. Dr. McCnlloch has forcibly
pointed out the evils of adding brandy to wine. The pure
light wines of Germany produce an agreeable exhilaration of
mind, very unlike the mere physical excitement, almost
amounting to ferocity, which results from the immoderate use
of the largely brandied wines so much in vogue in England;
the diseases which attend spirit-drinkers, chiefly disorders of
the liver, are commonly met with amongst consumers of wine
to which brandy has been adventitiously added, though such
maladies rarely, if ever, follow even the intemperate use of
pure wine. It is evident that the addition of alcohol to wine
is unnecessary for its preservation, for it is notorious that
Rhine wines sometimes retain their excellence for a century;
yet in these the quantity of alcohol is seldom more than eight
or nine per cent, that is, in professional terms, 17 — 21° of
proof, according to Syke's Hydrometer, used in the Test-office
of the London custom-house — indeed the very property of
keeping is mainly attributable to the fact that the fermentation
is more perfect in Rhenish wines than in those of Spain and
Portugal, in which latter countries fermentation is checked
by the addition of brandy, while with the white wines of
France , the same object is effected by salphuration — pro-
cesses by which the richness and sweetness of new wine are
artificially retained.

The connoisseur is generally in the habit of giving the

preference to France as a wine-growing country, and calls it

in his enthusiasm, par excellence ''the vineyard of the earth,'^

>nd doubtless the wonderful fertility of her soil, and her

ill clous temperature, varied though it be, give her a proud

-^jminence over the rest of the globe; within her sunny

)ns every description of wine is produced. Champagne of

rent degrees of excellence, Burgundy, as a red wine un-

led in its perfection, the exquisite produce of the Gironde

'" ^rome, and the luscious wines of Herault. Bat yielding,

I A

XXIV WINE.

as one in candour must, the palm to France for her red wines,
Germans may view with just pride their noble river, perhaps
the most beautiful stream in the world, on the banks of which
from Mayence to Bonn, a distance of 90 M., the cultivation
of the vine may be seen in the greatest possible perfection,
the result of which is the production of a variety of white
wines with which no other country can compete.

In Germany the wine-culture may almost be said to assume
the form of a passion, which pervades all classes from the
prince to the peasant. The reigning potentate has his vine-
yards, and might almost be called a wine-merchant on an
extensive scale, and his Eellermeister is an official, the im-
portance of whose office it would be difficult to overrate. The
peasant, too, owns his little patch of vineyard, which he
cultivates with assiduous care and affection.

It must be admitted that the traveller meets with no in-
•considerable difficulty in procuring that which in his imagination
must be of very easy attainment, namely a bottle of good
wine. As in a sea-port town in England it is often difficult
to obtain good fish, the voracious maw of the great metropolis
absorbing all that comes within its reach, so, in the very
garden of the vine, unanticipated obstacles to the hoped-for
enjoyment present themselves. If th« frugal traveller, fresh
from England with the taste of Port and Sherry hardly out
of his mouth, contents himself with ordering a bottle of the
ordinary table-wine, which he sees is very palatable to the
unvitiated taste of the natives, he is likely to be little captivated
by his first impressions of the highly-extolled produce of the
Rhenish grape, and if his eye wanders over the ^^ Weinkarte '^
in search of the rarer productions of the Rheingau — to say
nothing of the bewilderment generally attendant upon such a
■search — he will find that he can only gratify his longings
at a cost equal to, if not exceeding, his whole day's ex-
penditure, for a bottle of Johannisberger or Steinberger cannot
be obtained at an hotel at less than four thalers a bottle. It
is a well-known fact that the prices charged by the inn-keepers
for the table d'hote dinners with their endless variety of
dishes, frequently followed by ice and fruit, are wholly un-
Temunerative, and they are consequently compelled to put a
profit upon their wines of about one hundred per cent. This
is a difficulty not easily overcome, and the reiadiest solution
we can offer the traveller, between the Scylla of the very
cheap, and the Charybdis of the expensive wines, is to re-
commend him, should the table-wine not prove sufficiently
palatable, to order a bottle of Rhine or Moselle at a thaler,
or a thaler and five groschen (about 2 fl.), at which price the

WINE. XXV

most fastidious taste ought to be gratified. In the wine*gardens
and other places of public resort, it is the custom among the
natives to order simply white or red wine at six, eight, or
ten groschen (20 — 36 kreuzers) a bottle, by adopting which
course a fair estimate may be made of the ordinary wine of
the country.

The Rheingau, a district of about 15 M. in length, pro-
duces the finest wines of the Rhine. Here is situated Schioss
Johannisberg, a most favoured spot, yielding a wine, up to a
recent period considered without a rival. When it is stated
that these celebrated vineyards are oonfined to a space of
about 40 acres, it may be easily seen how little of this rare
product falls to the share of the ordinary public. The first
quality can only be obtained in the most favourable seasons;
the grapes are selected with the utmost care from the ripest
bunches — not a drop of the precious juice is allowed to
escape — the yield, under the most auspicious circumstances,
is therefore very limited. This may be considered as the
veritable nectar, which the vulgar lip seldom profanes. It
was, until recently, the custom to sell these wines only in bottle,
but this practice is now abandoned, and they are now sold
In the cask at Schioss Johannisberg by public auction. This
celebrated wine is less remarkable for its strength than for
its raciness, the delicacy of its flavour and its bouquet. The
other wines of the immediate vicinity are distinguished by
the name of Johannisberg -KUtus ; the vineyards belonging to
Count Schonborn also yield a wine highly esteemed. There
is also "Johannisberger" produced from the vineyards at the
side of the Schioss and the village of that name, but these are
inferior to many of the other productions of the Rheingau. In
this neighbourhood are the districts of Rudesheim and Geiseri'
heim, the first of these producing a fine and generous wine,
the principal characteristics of which are mellowness and body.
Bingen, on the left side of the river, is a favourable district
for strong wines; the hill in the rear yields Scharlachberger,
Below Bingen, on the opposite side of the Rhine, is Aasmanns-
hausenj the red wine of which holds a high rank in the
estimation of the connoisseur, and in good vintages bears no
mean comparison with Burgundy of the best class, being made
from the same species of grape, but unfortunately, like the
latter, is often seriously impaired by travelling. The ^''MarcO"
brunn ** vineyard, situated between Hattenkeim and Erbach, pro-
duces a wine of exquisite flavour and bouquet, but the wine
which competes most successfully with Johannisberger, and
indeed trenches closely upon its celebrity, is the Steinberger^

XXVI WIXE.

produced from an estate belonging to the Duke of Nassau on
the hill at the back of Hattenheim, and cultivated with the
utmost care. Many circumstances contribute to the increasing
reputation of the Steinberg wine. The Duke of Nassan, it
is well known, spares no expense in the cultivation of his.
vineyards, upon which the utmost care is bestowed under the
personal supervision of the Duke's Kellermeister and his sub-
ordinates. The estate of Johannisberg is held by the head of
the Metternich family as a fief of the crown of Austria. In
the hottest seasons the lightness of the soil of the Johannis>
berg vineyard is occasionally detrimental to the perfection of
the yield, the grapes being apt to ripen before they attain
their proper size and maturity. This was the case in 1857,
which, with 1858 and 1869, are the three best years in
succession on record, -when the Steinberger reached a marked
pre-eminence over its rival, a circumstance owing principally
to the heavier nature of the soil. Hochheim, though situated
on the Main, is considered to yield a Rhenish wine of a very
superior quality.

It may not be out of place here to name a respectable
house from which the above-mentioned first-class wines can
be procured. To connoisseurs and purchases of Hock and Moselle
we can highly recommend among others Messrs. J3, SfJ^Espen-
sckied, of Coblenz, their cellars being well known on the Rhine
as containing a choice variety of wines of the first growths^
such as Steinberg, Johannisberg, Marcobrunn, Grafenberg,
Riidesheim, &c.

The valley of the Ahr may be regarded as the most N.
point at which the culture of the grape is brought to any
perfection; its light and wholesome red wines are chiefly
consumed in the neighbourhood of their growth. Walporzheimer
and Ahr-Bleicherte, when procured from respectable sources,
without the ''improvements" introduced by the chemist Chaptal,
and subsequently 'improved upon" by Dr. Gall, are of a ruby
colour, strenghtening and astringent in their properties, and
bear a resemblance to Burgundy of an inferior class.

Whilst thus briefly dwelling upon Rhenish wines in general,,
mention must be made of the effervescing wine.<< which were
first manu&ctured 40 years ago at £sslingen, Wurzburg and
Treves, but with indifi^erent success, and subsequently in
Mayence, Hochheim and Coblenz, in which latter place there
are now six thriving manufactories. These wines are known
generally in England under the denomination of sparkling
Hock and Moselle, and are distinguished from the French
wines by the predominance of the flavour of the grape, a

WINE. XXVII

quality they owe to the comparatively small quantity of cognac
used in their preparation. It is well known that in the inferior
qualities of genuine champagne the flavour of cognac, or some
other spirit, conceals the want of flavour of. the wine. In
England the consumption of these wines is considerably on
the increase. It must, however, be confessed, that, in their
unsophisticated state, they do not find the same favour among
the Germans; and to show the extent to which prejudice can
be carried, it may be mentioned that at Hochheim not only are
the bottles labelled with the names of the first French growers,
but the brands on the corks, the metallic covering of the
bottles, and peculiarities in packing are so closely imitated
that the most practised eye does not detect the deception,
«nd in this disguise are these wines freely consumed in the
country of their manufacture. The process is exactly similar
to that of Champagne, for which it often does duty in England.
When obtained in unexceptionable quarters, it is a light and
most agreeable beverage, but unscrupulous individuals too
often employ the process as a vehicle for getting rid of wine
of very inferior quality, sweetness and effervescence concealing
for the moment the real nature of the article.

In bringing these few remarks to a conclusion, it may not
be out of place to caution the traveller against employing any
other than the most respectable wine-merchants. The art of
adulteration is unhappily widely known, and, what is worse,
the label and cork are not always guarantees that the wine is
what it professes to be. It may also be stated that excellence
of quality is wholly incompatible with lowness of price. Good
wine bears a high price even on the spot where it is grown.
What is a light and agreeable beverage in Germany will hardly
pass muster in the English climate, especially where the palate
is often cloyed with the strong wines of Spain and Portugal.
As a light, agreeable, and wholesome summer beverage the
Rhenish wines of the 2nd and 8rd class may of course be im-
ported at a very moderate price, the duty upoji. such in bottle
being now reduced to 2s. bd, per gallon; but the highest class
of Rhine wine, of which Marcobrunner may be taken as a
good sample, cannot be drunk in England under six or seven
shillings a bottle.

For the convenience of the traveller a list of some of the
best known Rhine and Moselle wines is appended; it might
be extended considerably, but it would be found impossible
to discriminate between the numberless wines of third and
fourth- class growth.

XXVIII

WINE.

Wises.

When grown.

OUss.

Properties*

Johannisbarg . . .
Steinberg

Rudesheimer-Berg
— Minterbaus .

Marcobrunn ....
Hochheim-Dom-De-
chaney

Grafenberg ....

Geiseuheim-Rothen-
berg

Rheingau.
do.

do.
do.

do.

»»

Raciaess, delicacy, bouquet.

The above properties combined
-with strength.
1 Mellowaess and body; the first
y from the Orleans, the latter
j from the Riessling grape.

Fine flavour and bouquet.

Mellowness combined with pe-
culiar and excellent flavour.

Of almost equal standing to
Marcobrunn.

Great delicacy and flavour.

Johaonisberg -Klaus
Rauenthaler-Berg .

Hochheim

Hattenheim ....
Geisenfaeim ....

Winkel

Riidesheim

Bodenthal

do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.

»»

m,
»>
>'

Mellowness.
Mellowness.

Generally char-
acterised more
by bouquet than
mellowness.

Assmannshausen .

do.

Pine red wine resembling Bur-
gundy.

Rupertsberg ....
Deidesheim ....

FOTSt

Ungstein

Konigsbach ....

Rhenish Bavaria,
do.
do.
do.
do.

III.
ij

»»

IV.

I Possess more mellowness and
1 body than bouquet and flavour.

Scharlachberg . . .

Nierstein

Liebfrauenmilch .
Laubenheim ....

Rheniflh Heesen.
do.
do.
do.

II.

j»
III.

Possess body and flavour, bat
I less delicacy and raciness than
the wines of the Rheingau.

EngehoU

Steeg

Rhenish Prussia,
do.

III.

1 Agreeable light wines.

Kreutzberg

Ehrenbreitstein.

IV.

A good full-bodied red wine.

Walporsheim - . .
Ahr-Bleichert . . .

Valley of the
Ahr.

III.

\ Good and wholesome red wines;
j astringent.

Scharzhofberg . . .

Scharzberg

Brauneberg ....

Pisport

Graach

Zel tingen

Moselle,
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.

I.
II.

HI.

JJ
JJ

Light, wholesome and agreeable
wines of peculiar fragrance,
* recommended to persons of
sedentary habits.

XXIS.

Fall of the Bhine.

Height above the Level of the sea of
Feet.

The Toma- See, source of 'the

Vorder.Rhein .;.... 7240
The Rhein-wald Glacier, source

of the Hinter-Rhein .... 6822
Reichenau, at the confluence of

the Vorder- and Hinter-Rhein 1804

The Lake of Constance . . . 1089

The Rhine at Bdle 752

„ Strasburg . . . 448

„ Speyer .... 304

„ Mannheim . . . 284

„ Mayence . . . 256

„ Bingen .... 232

The Rhine at Bacharach
,, the Lurlei
„ St. Goar .
„ Boppard .

>»
»»
i»
»»
•»

5»
»»
>»

»J

Coblenz .
Neuwied .
Andernach
Brohl. .
Bonn . .
Cologne .
Dusseldorf
Wesel . .
Emmerich

Feet.

. 211

. 20S

. 197

. 192'

. 179

. 165^

161

156

134

115

4»

Average iNreadth of the Rhine.

Feet.

At Bile 528

„ Strasburg 744

„ Mannheim 1200

„ Mayence 1380

„ Bingen 1606

Between Bingen and Coblens . 1200

At Coblens 1116

Feet.

At Neuwied 1260

Unkel 840

Bonn 148S

Cologne 1212

Worringen 1992

Disseldorf 1140

„ Schenkenachana (Dutch front.) 2544

>»

»»

»i

Depth of the Bhine.

Feet.

Between Bale and Strasburg 3 — 12

„ Strasburg and Mayence 5 — 24

„ Mayence and Bonn 9 — 72

At the Lurlei 72

Between Bonn and Cologne 10—30

At Cologne 18

,, MiiJhelm 25

Between Miilheim and Diisseldorf 12—31

At Dusseldorf above the town 62

„ „ below the town 23

5XX

Length of the Rhine.

Engl. Miles.

From B&le to Strasburg SS'/e

Strasburg to Lauterburg 28V6

Lauterburg to Mayeace 33Vs

Mayence to Bingen IP/,

Blngen to Coblenz 38'/,

Coblenz to Cologne 58Vs

Cologne to Dusseldorf 34

Dusseldorf to Emmerich 65V4

Emmerich to Briel (North Sea) 97V,

From B&le to the North Sea 4&6V4

An annual sum of 125,0002. is expended on the construction of dams and
other river-works. Of this the government of Baden pays upwards of
40,000^., that of Prussia almost as much.

AHreviationt aM4 in tiM Eaadboolc.

R. = room N. =s north

L. = light S. = south

B. = breakfast E. = east

D, = dinner W.^ west

8. = supper r. = right

exc. W. = exclusive of wine 1. = left

inc. W. = inclusive of wine min. = minute
A. = attendance hr. = hour.

M. = English mile.

NB. The best hotels and everything particularly worthy of note are
Indicated by an asterisk.

1. From Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle.

By express train in 5 hrs. ; fares 18 fr. 37, 13 fr. 2 c. Custom-house
formalities on arriving at the station of Aix-la-Chapelle or Cologne. The
finest views between Louvaiu and Liege are to the right. The entire
district betweeu Liege and Aix-Ia-Chapelic is replete with interest.

Brussels (HStel de Bcllevue, *de Flandre, de I'Europc,
de la Grande Bretagne, de France, de la Regeuce, Windsor,
all in the upper part of the town, near the park; *Hdtel de Su^de,
de rUniyers, de Saxe, de I'Angleterre, des Etraugers, de Hol-
lande, in the lower part of the town; of the second class: *H6tel de
Brabant, Grand-Mouarque, Belier; more moderate : *H6tel Callo,
''des Brasseurs, for travellers of moderate requirements), see Ba€deker\t
Belffique et HoUande.

Shortly after the train has left the handsome Station du
Nordf the royal palace of Laeken is seen rising above the
fertile meadow-land on an eminence to the 1. The stream which
winds through the pastures is the Serine. To the r. stands the
Chateau of the Marquis van Assche. In 10 min. stat. Vilvorde
is passed. Near this little town, the most ancient in Brabant,
to the 1. of the line, is an extensive Penitentiary, with numerous
windows resembling loop-holes, capable of receiving 2000 con-
victs. In 25 min. the train stops at the station of

Malines, Flem. Mecheleny Ger. Mecheln. {Hotel de la Grue,
Hotel de Brabant, both in the market-place, near the cathedral;
St. Antoine , rue d'Egmont ; St, Jacques , in the Corn-market ;
table d'hote in all at 1 o'clock. Near the station, Cour Im-
periale, unpretending and reasonable. '■^Dejeuner de Malines,''
a dish regarded as a triumph of Belgian culinary skill, may
be ordered by the curious). Malines is the central point of
all the Belgian railways, which here diverge in four different
directions; travellers should therefore be careful to avoid
mistakes in case of a change of carriage. Malines is equi-
distant (15 M.) from Brussels, Antwerp and Louvain.

The town, situated on the Dyle, with a pop. of 33,855, is
reached by the rue d'£gmont. It contains handsome squares,
broad and regular streets and palatial edifices , but is entirely
destitute of animation. Malines labours under the imputation
of being a century behind other Belgian towns in commercial
prosperity — a circumstance mainly attributable to the supineness
and want of enterprise of its corporation. In 1551, when the
Brussels and Antwerp canal was constructed, this intelligent
body exerted their influence to prevent its approach to the
Babdbkbr's Rhine. 1

2 Route J. MALINES. From Brussels

town. Two centuries later, on the construction of the canal
from Louvain to Antwerp, a similar infatuation pervaded its^
councils, and at a more recent date they declined to permit
the railway to traverse the precincts of the town, which is in
consequence visited by a very small proportion of the vast
concourse of travellers which annually passes through its
station. As an archiepiscopal residence it is a place of some
importance. By a bull of Pius VII. in 1802 the cardinals of
Malines were authorized to exercise ecclesiastical jurisdiction
over the bishoprics of Mayence, Treves and Aix-la-Chapelle^
a privilege they enjoyed till 1821.

The *Cathedral of St. Rumboid {St. Rombaud), com-
menced in the 12th and completed in the 15th cent., is a
structure of no great architectural merit; the clumsy, unfinished
tower is visible for miles round. The construction of the
latter (340 ft.; proposed height 480 ft.) was commenced in
1452, with the aid of the contributions of the pilgrims who
in that year resorted to the cathedral to purchase the indul-
gences granted by Pope Nicholas V. on the occasion of the
Turkish war. A stone in the wall of the platform bears the
name of "Louis XV.," who ascended to this point in 1746.
The dial of the tower-clock is 48 ft. in diameter.

The interior of the church (nave 90 ft. high, 39 ft. broad)
is imposing, and contains several fine pictures which merit
inspection, especially the *Altarpiece by Van Dyck, in the S.
transept, representing the Crucifixion, painted in 1627, ju-
diciously cleaned in 1848. This is considered one of this
great master's finest works, and is remarkable for the ad-
mirable disposition of the figures and the profound grief and
resignation expressed by the Virgin (sacristan's fee 1 fr.). In
the N. transept: Adoration of the shepherds, by Quellyn; on
the same side two altarpieces in chapels : Circumcision , by
Michel Coxcie, a native of Malines and pupil of Raphael,
painted in 1587, and the Last Supper by Wouiers. Adjacent
to the latter, in the last N. chapel, is a marble monument by
the Liege sculptor Jehotte to the archbishop Count Mean
(d. 1831), who is represented kneeling before the angel of
death. The passage round the choir contains a number of
pictures by Herreyns and others , dating from the commence-
ment of the present century, as well as 25 smaller paintings
of the van Eyck school , all representing scenes from the life
of St. Rumboid. The Pulpit is of carved wood, of the kind
frequently seen in Belgian churches ; below is represented the
Conversion of St. Paul, above it John and the women at the
Cross, and Adam and Eve with the serpent. The Choir contains
several episcopal monuments of the 17th cent, and moderr»

to AiX'la'Chapelle. MALINES. 1. Route. 3

stained glass. A sum of 400/. is annually expended on the
restoration of the edifice.

The Grande Place contains several ancient huildings, among
others Les Halles, dating from 1340, now the guard-house,
and the Beyard, or Town-hall, of the 15th cent.

The *Statue of Margaret of Austria (d. 1530), daughter
of Maximilian I. and Mary of Burgundy, celebrated as a
diplomatist, regent of the Netherlands and tutoress of Charles V.,
was erected in 1849, as the inscription records. The epitaph
she jestingly composed on herself after her second betrothal
(with the Infante John), during a storm whilst on her way to
Spain, is well known: "Ci-yit Margot, la gente demoiselle^ qu'eut
deux maris et si mourut pucelle" ; and her motto: *^ Fortune
inf&rtune fort une."

In the vicinity of the cathedral is the Church of St. John,
an insignificant edifice, but remarkable for its * High-altar-
piece with wings, representing the Adoration of the Magi, by
Rubens, which he himself considered one of his best works.
On the inner side of the wings: the Beheading of John the
Baptist, and the Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist; on the
outer side: the Baptism of Christ, and St. John in the Island
of Patmos, both in Rubens' best style. The carved pulpit
represents the Good Shepherd.

The Church of Notre Dame, the first to the 1. on
approaching the town from the station, contains (in a chapel
behind the high-altar) Rubens' celebrated Miraculous Draught of
fishes, an admirably coloured picture with wings, painted in
1618 for the Guild of Fish-mongers for the sum of 1000 florins.
The Botanical Garden contains a bust of the eminent botanist
Dodonseus, a native of Malines.

The Dyle, which intersects the town, and 6 M. below it
falls into the Nethe, forming the Rupel, is subject to the rise and
fall of the tide, whence the erroneous conjecture that Malines
derives its name from maris linea, the boundary of the sea.

As the train approaches Louvain, stat. Wespelaer is passed,
to the r. of which are seen the estate and park of the family
of Marnef , a favourite resort of the townspeople of Louvain.
The park contains a profusion of grottoes, Chinese bridges,
Greek temples, and a motley array of statues and busts of
the Greek mythological deities, literary and other celebrities,
Kousseau, Voltaire, the Prince of Orange etc. According to
the partial judgment of the vicinity, this is the most attractive
property in Belgium; those who have leisure may test the
accuracy of this opinion.

Louvain ) Flem. Leuven, Ger. Lotven {* Hotel de la Suede;
Cour de Mons; Sauvage), comp. Baedeker's Belgique et Hollande. —

4 Route 1. TIRLEMONT. From Brussels

The traveller who is detained at Louvain should not fail to
visit the **H6tel deVille, a magnificent edifice in the later
Gothic style, erected in 1448-63, and the Gothic * Church
of St. Peter, dating from the 15th cent., and remarkable for
the symmetry of its proportions. The carved wooden stalls
in the Church of St. Gertrude also well merit inspection.

Tirleznont, or Thienen {Hotel des quatre saisons, at the
station; Plat d*Etain, Hotel de Flandre^ both in the market-
place; at the station, ^^Buffet-restaurant tari/e"), occupies an
extensive area, the town- walls being nearly 6 M. in circumf.,
but is thinly populated (12,178 inhab.). The •Church of
St. Germain, believed to date from the 9th cent., is one of
the most ancient Christian edifices in existence; the well-
preserved tower is incontestibly of Roman origin. Tirlemont
was the birth-place of the celebrated Jesuit Bollandus, the
author of the Acta Sanctorum. Those who continued the work
after his death termed themselves Bollandists.

On leaving Tirlemont the train traverses a lofty embank-
ment, afi'ording an extensive view. In clear weather the Lion
and the Prussian iiionument on the field of Waterloo may
be distinguished in the distance to the r.

Between the stations of Esemael and Landen the line inter-
sects the plain of Neerwinden, the scene of two important
battles. In the first the allies under William III. of England
were defeated in the Spanish war of succession by the French
under the Marshal of Luxembourg, July 29th, 1693; in the
second the French under Dumouriez and Louis Philippe, at
that time "General Egalit^," were defeated by the Austrians
under the command of the Duke of Coburg, and driven out
of Belgium.

Landen was the birthplace of Pepin of Landen, ancestor

of Pepin the Little and Charlemagne, and "major-domo" of

the French King Clotaire II. He died here in 640 and was

interred on the hill which still bears his name. With him

commenced the ascendancy of the Carlovingian line.

From Landen a brancb^line diverges to Aix-ia-Chapelle, pursuing a some-
what shorter but less ioterestiug route. The principal stations are St, Trond,
Hasselt (capital of the province of Liniburg, the scene of a victory gained
by the Dutcb over the Belgians, Aug. 6th, 1831) tmd Mastricht.

Beyond stat. IVaremme, the line intersects the well-preserved
Roman road, termed by the people of the country the Road
of Brunhilde, from Bavay (Bavacum Nerviortim) near Mons to
Tongues, 9 M. to the S. E. of Waremme. The Heshaye^ a
district of which Waremme was formerly the capital, was
noted for the strength and bravery of its inhabitants, as the
old proverb testifies : "Qwi passe dans le Hesbain est comhattu
le lendemain."

to Aix'la-ChaptHe. LIEGE. J. Route. 5

The undulating, agricultural district of Brabant, with its
somewhat phlegmatic Germanic inhabitants, is quitted near
Stat. Ans (450 ft. higher than Liege) for a mining tract of
country with a Walloon population of Celtic origin, distinguished
by the activity and vivacity of their disposition.

As the train descends the rapid (1 : 30) incline to Liege,
a fine view of the populous city and the animated valley of
the Meuse is obtained.

Liege, Flem. Luik, Ger. Luttich {* Hotel de Suede; * Belle-
vue; * Hotel d^Angleterre; Hotel de I' Europe; Hotel Schiller^ etc.),
pop. 97,544; comp. Baedeker's Belgique et Hollande. — The
traveller whose time is limited should visit the Palais de
.Justice, the Church of St. Jacques, the Cathedral
{St, Paul\ and, for the sake of the view, the Citadel.

On quitting Liege the Meuse is crossed by the handsome
Pont du Val Benoit. Numerous lofty chimneys afford indication
of the industrial prosperity of the district. The extensive
zinc foundry of the Vieille-Montagne company is next
passed, and the Ourthe, which is here joined by its affluent
the Vesdre^ crossed. Chinee, the first station beyond Liege,
is another manufacturing town.

Chaudfontaine {Grand Hotel des Bains; Hotel d'Angleterre)
is a small, but picturesquely situated watering-place, a fa-
vourite resort of the inhabitants of Liege. The warm spring
(104° Fahr.), which rises on an island in the Vesdre, is
pumped up and conveyed to the bath-estab. by means of a
large water-wheel. Since 1862 Chaudfontaine has enjoyed
the amenities of a ''Cnrsaal."

Before entering the tunnel, the picturesque castle of La
Roekette is seen on an eminence to the 1. As Le Trooz is
approached, the traveller perceives the ancient castle of that
name, perched on the rocks to the r. of the line. For upwards
of a century a manufactory of gun-barrels has been established
in the building. Farther on , to the r., the castle of Fraipont.

Between stat. Nessonvauz and Pepinster, to the r. of the
line, stands the Chateau de Masures {masure =s ruined house),
erected by the late Vicomte BioUey, a wealthy manufacturer
of Verviers, and said to occupy the site of a hunting-seat of
King Pepin. At Pepinster {Pepin's terre) a branch line
diverges to Spa {Hotel d* Orange; Hotel BrUannique; Hotel
de Flandre, de York, de Bellevue, etc.; Cour de Londres^ mo-
derate), 7Y2M. distant; see Baedeker's Belgique et Hollande, The
next Stat. Ensival, to the 1. of the line, is almost contiguous
to Verviers.

Verviers {Hotel du Chemin defer ^ at the stat. ; Hotel des Pays-
BaSy in the town), with 28,691 inhab., is a busy, commercial

6 Route 2, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

town of recent origin, and consists almost exclusively of
manufactories, the residences of their owners and the habit* '
ations of the operatives. In Verviers and its environs up- '
wards of 350,000 pieces of cloth, worth 3,020,000/., are
annually manufactured. The town itself contains nothing
worthy of note.

As Stat. Delhain, a modern town, picturesquely situated
in the valley of the Vesdre, is approached, the ancient fortress
of liixnburgp is seen on an eminence. This is almost the
sole remnant of Limburg, the once flourishing capital of the
duchy of that name, destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1675. The
castle was the family seat of the powerful ducal family of
Limburg, to which the emperors Henry VII., Charles IV.,
Wenceslaus, and Sigismund of Germany belonged. The vi«w
obtained from this eminence is fine, but scarcely sufficiently
so to arrest the passing traveller. Pedestrians, however, will
be well repaid by a walk (8 — 10 hrs.) from Dolhain by Ver-
viers to Liege.

Herbesthal, the first Prussian village, is the frontier^
station (luggage examined at Aix or Cologne). Beyond stat.
Assenetj the village of Lontzen and the castle of Welkenkausen
lie to the 1. of the line. The train crosses the valley of the
Geul by a handsome viaduct of 17 arches, 120 ft. in height.*
To the 1. lies the village of Hergenrad^ and in the distance
beyond, the Einehurg or Emmaburg, situated on the brow of the
wooded mountains, a country residence of Charlemagne, where,
according to tradition, the intimacy between the emperorU
daughter Emma and his secretary Eginfaard was formed.

The train next passes through two tunnels of 540 ft. and
2350 ft. respectively, reaches stat. Ronheide, and finally descends
by a considerable incline to Aix-la-Chapelle,

2. Aix-la-Chapelle,

HoteU. *Hotcl Dremel (Grand Monarque, R. 20, L. 6, B. 12,

* A. 8Sgr.) and * Hotel Nuelieus, opposite to the Eiisenbrunnen, both 1st clas4

^^ hotels with corresponding charges. Hotel Frank orBellevue. Dragoa

' ^tid'Or. •H6tel Hoyer (Imperial Crown Hotel) very good (R. and B. 13,

^ -D. inc. W. 23'/^, A. 5 8gr.) Hotel de I'Empereur, with baths. Grand

^ Hdtel, more a boarding house.— Of the 2ud class: *H6tel Schlemmer

!J (Elephant); •Konig von Spanien, •Hotel Royal, Hotel du chemia

/^ de fer, all three near the Rhenish railway station.

BaYariaa beer in the rock-cellars at the foot of the Lousberg (p. 9).
Bestaorant in the * K 1 u p p e 1 to the £. of the Elisenbrannen ; *Beruarts
iu the Adalbertstrasse.

Oaniage {Vigfilante) for 1 pers, 5 8gr. from the station to the town.
Porcelain and Glaaa at Gerdes-Neuber's, not far from the Eliaen-
brunnen, opp. to the Kluppel.

Bailway to Cologne see R. 4, to Dusseldorf, Crefeld, Ruhrort R. 3, to
Mastricht ft trains daily in 1 hr., to Landen expr.-tr. in 2V«hr3., to Antwerp

•3 S«S« *' "

gssds^s A

w rt e<i »i crj V fi »i *? e^

•^

i»j

Town-hall.

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.

2. Route. 7

5 trains in i'/a— 6, to Ostend 3 trains in 7—9 iiM., *o Paris (pr. Krquelines)
2 expr.-trs. in'll'/4hrs.

Telepraph Office at the station of the Rhenish railway.

English Churoh in tlie Anna Htrasse. Resident chaplain.

-la-Chapelle, or Aachen^ contains but few reminiscences
of its ancient grandeur as an imperial city. Almost the only-
buildings of a remote date which still exist are the cathedral,
|the corn exchange, townhall, and some of the gates. It now
►resents the appearance of a prosperous modern town with
Its numerous manufactories, handsome streets and well-stocked
I hops. Of the Aquisgranum or Gioitas Aquenais of the Romans,
the station of the Leyio prima, no trace is visible. Even the
Ireminiscences of Charlemagne, the founder of Aix-la-Chapelle,
[which was his birthplace and favorite residence,- and the second
|eity in his empire, are. but scanty. From his death (814) to
531 Aix-la-Chapelle was the scene of the coronation of all
fehe German emperors (37), and was called par excellence
\\ie free city of the holy Roman empire. The insignia of
empire were here preserved till 1793, when they were taken
|o Vienna and deposited in the Imperial treasury. A large
>roportion of the population (54,000, 2000 Prot.) is engaged
[n manufactures of various kinds (cloth, needles, machinery,
looking-glasses).

Aix-la-Chapelle has frequently been the scene of Imperial

liets, ecclesiastical convocations, and congresses, the last of

rhich was that of 1818, at which three monarchs (Prussia,

Lustria, Russia) were present, and in which it was determined

io recal the German troops still in France. In May, 1668,

the peace between Louis XIV. and Spain was here concluded,

md the second peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, of October, 1748,

[terminated the Austrian war of succession.

The Town-hall (Rathhaus), erected in 1358, contains a
'hall restored in the ancient style, and decorated with * frescoes
by Retliel and Kehren, and small statues of 36 German
emperors.

Frescoes in theKaiscrsaal. 1. Tiie emperor Fiedcrick Redbeard
at the grave of Charlemagne ; 2. Fait of the '•'■ Irmeusaule " ; 3. Battle with the
Saracens at Corduba; 4. Conquest of Pavia in 774; a\l by Ret/iel. 5. Baptism
of Wittekind and Alboin; 6. Coronation of Charlemagne in St. Peter's at
Rome; 7. Construction of the Cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle ; 8. Abdication of
Charlemagne and Coronation of his son Louis ; all by Kehren. — The town-
council hall contains portraits of Fred. William III., Napoleon, Josephine,
the emperors Leopold II., Charles VI. and VII., the empress Maria Theresa,
and lastly the oldest and most celebrated portrait of Charlemagne by au
unknown master.

Towards the W. stands the Granusthurm, an ancient semi-
circular tower, which formerly belonged to the Imperial palace
and connected it with the cathedral. The square tower on
the E. side .dates from the commencement of the 13th cent. The,

8 Route 2. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. The Cathedral,

foimtain in front of the Rathhans is decorated with a statue of
Charlemagne, of little value as a work of art, erected in 1620.

The Cathedral, or Munsterkirehe ^ consists of two distinct
parts in different styles of architecture. That portion erected
by Charlemagne in 796 — 804 and consecrated by Leo III.,
improperly called the nave of the church, is an octagon of
50 ft. in diameter, surrounded by a sixteen-sided gallery and
terminating in a cupola; it is one of the most remarkable
monuments of early Christian architecture, but its effect is
unfortunately much marred by modern disfigurements. The
marble and granite columns which support the octagon were
brought from Rome and the palace of Ravenna. They were
wantonly broken by the French in 1794 and taken to Paris,
but were brought back in 1815 and restored to their places
in 1845 at the expense of the late king Fred. William IV.
Under the gilt chandelier, presented by Frederick Barbarossa,
is the tomb of Charlemagne, indicated by the inscription
^^Carolo Magno." This tomb was opened in the year 1000 by
Otto III. and the body of the great emperor found, seated on
a marble throne, used afterwards for the coronation ceremonies,
and still to be seen in the gallery, or ^^Hochmiinster''. The
ancient sarcophagus of Parian marble, in which the remains
of Charlemagne reposed for 50 years after the opening of his
tomb, has also been placed here; on the front is represented
the Rape of Proserpine.

The lofty and elegant * Choir, added to the original part
of the edifice in 1353—1413, but in a totally different style,
contains good modern stained -glass windows, representing
scenes from the life of the Virgin. The Fuipity richly adorned
with gold, precious stones, and carved ivory, was presented
by Henry II. (The sacristan uncovers the pulpit and sar-
cophagus, 1 — 3 pers. 15 Sgr.)

The Sacristy contains the so-called ''Great Relics," -which are held in
the highest veneration by the superstitious; they consist of a robe of the virgin,
the swaddling clothes in which the infant Saviour was wrapped, the bloody cloth
-with which the body of John the Baptist was covered after his execution, and the
cloth with which Christ was girded when on the Cross. These are publicly ex-
hibited only once in seven years, and attract vast crowds of religious devotees.
Among the numerous * Smaller relic* are the leathern girdle of Christ, a part of
the true Cross, the girdle of the Virgin, fto., all of which are preserved in
curious and richly ornamented caskets and monstrances. Among the treasures
are exhibited the skull, gigantic arm- (really leg) bone, and hunting-horn of
Charlemagne. The smaller relics are shown for a fee of 1 Thlr. for 1—8 pers.

The church-doors, as well as the brass gates of the arch-
ways of the upper gallery, date from the time of Charlemagne,
the peculiar Cloisters with their short pillars belong to the
12th and 13th centuries.

On the r. and 1. sides of the principal entrance are a brazen
wolf and pine-apple of Roman origin, supported by modern

Sulphur Springs, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 2. Route. 9

pillars. They formerly belonged to a fountain in the fish-
market; the water flowed from small apertnres among the hair
of the wolf, or, when these were closed, from holes in the
pine-apple which crowned the summit of the fountain.

The other churches of Aix-la-Chapelle contain few objects
of sufficient interest to detain the traveller. — Near the cathedral
is situated the *Com-Ezcliange (PI. 15), decorated with
statues of the 7 electors, probably of the 12th cent.

The celebrated warm Sulphur-springs^ known as early as
the Roman period, rise partly in the town and partly in the
neighbouring village of Burtscheid. The principal is the Kaisers-
quelle (on the slope of the market-hill, in the Hotel de TEm-
pereur), which supplies the Kaiserbad, theNeubad, the '^ Queen
of Hungary," and the Elisenbrunnen. The Quirinnsbad and
the three lower springs in the Gomphausbad are somewhat less
powerful in their effects.

In the gardens near the pump-room of the Elisenbruxmen
(PI. 14) a band plays from 7 to 8 a.m. during the season.
Near it is the handsome Theatre (PI. 20), in the broad street
leading from the railway station into the town.

The old Curhaus (PI. 16) in the Comphausbadstrasse,
erected in 1782, on the E. side of the town, contains ball,
reading, refreshment and other rooms (adm. 5 Sgr.), open from
10a.ro. (reading-room from 8) to 10 p.m.; adjoining it is the
new Cursaal, opened in 1863. Music in the garden from
3 to 4Vo o'clock.

Burtacheid, or Borcette {St. Charles; Rosenbad; Schwertbad),
now connected with Aix-la-Chapelle by a series of new build-
ings, is also celebrated for its baths. The Kochbrunnen (l56°Fahr.)
with the other warm springs, unite their waters and form the
so-called Warm brook, separated by a footpath from the Cold
brook; both of which unite in the IVarm pond, Vg M. from
Burtscheid.

The *IiOUBberg, a wooded emineace 200 ft. in height,
2 M. distant from the Rhenish station, and % M. from the
Pont-Thor, is intersected with walks and pleasure grounds;
at its base is the Felsenhierkeller (rock beer-cellar, p. 6). The
summit commands a fine survey of the busy town and environs
of Aix-la-Chapelle and the undulating country in the vicinity;
to the E. is the rich, grassy Soersthal, with numerous country
residences and coal-mines. The white Wallfahrtskirche (pilgrims*
church), on the dA^SkCQnt Salvatorberg, is a conspicuous object
in the landscape.

The Frankenburg (p. 12) which is situated 1 M. to the E.
of the station, was once a hunting seat of Charlemagne. The
ancient ivy-grown tower belongs to the original building, but

10 Route 3. EMMABURG.

the principal part dates from 1642. The pond which surrounds
the castle was once a large lake, in which, according to an
ancient tradition, the magic ring of Fastrada (R. 35), the last
wife of Charlemagne, was sunk, and attracted the monarch to
this spot, where he sat for whole days gazing pensively on
the lake, and mourning for his lost consort.

About % M. farther in the same direction is Trimbom,
a grove where a Roman legion-stone and a gigantic sarcophagus
were discovered. The artificial ruin at the entrance is con-
structed of the fragments of a chapel of the time of Charlemagne.

A marble monument, erected on the Treves road, a few
minutes' walk to the S. of the town, marks the spot where
the three monarchs met in 1818 to express their gratitude for
the victory of Leipsic.

The grounds and promenades of the Carlshdhe, ^^ M.
from Bonheide (station on the line towards Belgium), afford
the finest view of Aix-la-Chapelie.

In the vicinity of the Geui-viaduct (on the line towards
Belgium, sy^ M. to the S.W. of Aix-la-Chapelle) stands the
ancient castle of Emmaburg^, from which Eginhard, the private
secretary of Charlemagne, is said to have abducted the princess
Emma. Near it are the extensive cadmia mines and zinc
foundries of the society Vieille MontagtiBj in the parish of
Moresnetf neutral ground belonging to Prussia and Belgium
in common.

3. From Aix-la-Chapelle to DUsseldorf,
Crefeld, and Buhrort.

By Railway to Diwseldorf in 2'/ihr8.; fares: 2 Thlr. 9, 1 Thlr. 22, or
21 Sgr.; to Ruhrort in S"/* hrs.; fares: 2 Thlr. 25, 2 Thlr. 4, or 26 Sgr.

This line forms the N.W. side of the triangle described
by it in conjunction with the Cologne and Aix-la-Chapelle,
and the Cologne and Crefeld lines. Travellers proceeding by
this route from Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf effect a saving
of 1 hr., and, on the journey to Oberhausen and Berlin, of
2 hrs. The second-class carriages are not inferior to those
of the first class on the Rhenish-Belgian line. The country
which is traversed presents little to interest the tourist in
search of the picturesque, but is, in a commercial point of
view, a district of great importance, and one of the most in-
dustrial and densely populated (720 inhab. to 1 sq. M.) in
Prussia.

The line has two stations at Aix-la-Chapelie, one at the
Marschierthor, near the Rhenish station, another at the Templer-
bend, near the Pont-Thor. It intersects the walls of the;

ds
an
ist
to
on

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CREFELD. 3, Route. 11

town and passes by the foot of the Lousberg (p. 9). At
Richterich the Mastricht line diverges to the 1. and joins the
Liege and Lowen line at Landen. (From Aix-la-Chapelle to
Mastricht in 1 hr.)

At Kohlscheid, opposite to Bardenberg^ , both mining
villages, the line begins to descend the pretty and animated
fVurmthal^ at the extremity of which Herzog^nrath (French
Rolduc) with its old castle, situated 200 ft. lower than the
last-mentioned stations, is reached. On the heights to the 1.
is seen the ancient abbey of Ktosterrath.

Near Geilenkirchen are seen the castles of Rimburg, Zwei-

hruggen, and beyond it, Trips. The train now leaves the Warm,

traverses the fertile and undulating Duchy of Julich, crosses

the grassy plain of the Roer between liindern and Baal, passes

JSrkelenz, an ancient town with fine church of the 14th cent,

and a ruined castle, Wickrath., and Rheydt {Krusemann).

Sohloaa Dyek, seat of the Prince of Saltn-Reifferscbeid-Dyck, with beauti-
ful park and grouud:), contains one of the finest collections oi cacti in Europe,
C^Inn opp. to the gate of the ch&tean). ScfdoHs Licdberg, on an eminence
!{ M. N. from the latter, commands an extensive view.

Oladbach, or Miinchen-Giadbach {Herfs\ Viersen {Hilgers),
the next stations, as well as the neighbouring towns of Oden-
kirchen (Krosch), Dtllken (Siemes), and SUchteln (Horat),
lie in one of the richest manufacturing districts in Germany,
which previous to the American war annually imported upwards
of 4 million pounds of cotton-yarn from England, and can
boast of one of the most considerable silk and velvet manu-
factories (at Viersen) on the continent, as well as numerous
other branches of industry. The workmen employed in these
estetblishments are an industrious and thriving race, and
generally own the cottages and gardens they occupy.

At Gladbach the line to Kleiaenbmch , KeuM (p. 39), Oberoasseli and
DiisaeldOrf , diverges off to the r.

The Crefeld train continues in a N. direction, crosses the
North Canal, commenced by Napoleon as a means of com-
munication between the Rhine at Neuss and the Meuse,
and reaches Crefeld {*Oberheim, R. and B. 18 Sgr., D. inc.
W. 20 Sgr. ; * Wilder Mann), seat of the principal silk and
velvet manufactories in Prussia. The quantity of rkw silk
imported in 1853, principally from Turin and Milan, exceeded
750,000 lbs. The Crefeld fabrics, worth 1,500,000/. annually,
vie with those of Lyons in quality and finish, and are largely
exported to America.

The population (14,000 in 1835) now amounts to 51,000,
of whom 13,000 are Protestants, and 1000 Anabaptists; the
latter settled here, where they found~protection under the Princes
of Orange (1600—1702), when they were banished from the

12 Route 4. STOLBERG.

Dachies of Jiilich and Berg. In 1702 Crefeld and the ad-
jacent County of Meiirs became Prussian. In June 1758
Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick gained a victory over the
P'rench under the Prince of Bourbon-Conde in the vicinity of
Crefeld. The battle field is marked by a monument. (Railway
to Cologne see R. 11).

The train next passes XJerdingen, a manufacturing town
on the Rhine, and reaches Homberg^, the terminus of the line.
Passengers are conveyed by steamboats from here to Ruhrort
( * Cieve Hotel) , to the station of the Cologne and Minden
railway, on the opposite bank of the river.

The Ruhr, which unites with the Rhine at Ruhrort, forms
an excellent harbour, capable of accommodating 400 vessels,
the best river-haven in Germany. The productive coal-mines
of the Ruhr yield X"^/^ million tons annually, about half of
which is exported to Holland and the remainder conveyed
in barges, towed by tug-steamers, of which Ruhrort alone
possesses 16, to the Upper Rhine. Opposite to the station
are the extensive iron-works (6 blast, and 108 puddling fur-
naces) of the Phoenix Company. From Ruhrort by a brancli
liue to Oberliausexi (p. 24), a station on the main line, in
20 min.

4. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne.

By the Rhenish Railway in l'/^— 2hrs.; fares: 2 Thlr. 15, 1 Thlx. 25,
nnd 1 Thlr. 8 Sgr. Return-tickets valid only for day of issue and day
following.

Few lines in Germany exhibit such varied forms of railway
engineering in so short a distance as that between the Belgian
frontier and Cologne. The viaducts near Aix-la-Chapelle and
over the Geul and the tunnel of Konigsdorf are among the
most remarkable structures of the kind in Germany.

On leaving the station the train crosses the valley of the

Wurm and passes close by the Frankenhurg (on the 1.), once

the favourite residence of Charlemagne; it then passes through

t\\Q Nirmer Tunnel (Y^ M.), traverses the Reieksbiisch wood, and

stops at the Kamhacher Muhle, the stat. for the flourishing and

rapidly increasing town of Stolberg^ {Hissel; Welter).

The mines of Stollberg and it.'} euvirons were first worked in the
17th cent, by the Protestants who were banished from France and Aix-la-
Chapelle, and to them the town is indebted for its present prosperity. The
principal products of the district are zinc, lead, and silver; there are also
numerous manufactories of various descriptions, the coal for the supply of
which is found in abundance in the neighbourhood. Scarcely another locality
in the whole of Germany exhibits so many branches of industry within so
small a space. The number of workmen employed in these ditferiMit establish-
ments amounts to upwards of 12,000, and the annual value of the zinc, lead,
silver and coals yielded by the mines exceeds 4.50.(H)0/.

ESCHWEILER. J. Route. 33

The train now traverses a most picturesque district, with
numerous coal-mines and iron-foundries, crosses the Inde and
enters a tunnel, on emerging from which, it stops at

Stat. Eschweiler (Raisin), a manufacturing town. Farther
on, to the 1., near the village of Nothberg, lies the Rottger
Schloss, an old castle with four towers. The pottery village
of liang^erwehe , on the hillside, now comes in sight. To
the r., on the hills, are several villages, among which is
Werthj said to have .been the birthplace of the celebrated
imperial general Johann von Werth, who gained many victories
over the French and Swedes in the 30 years' war, and in
July, 1636, even penetrated as far as Paris itself. The blue
mountains in the distance to the r. are the spurs of the Eifel.

To the r. the view is now bounded by the Hochwald, a long
ridge of hills, from which in the distance rises the variegated
sandstone peak of Burgberg. At the base of the wooded heights
lies the village of Merode with a handsome old turreted castle
of the same name, seat of a wealthy Belgian family. The
Roer is next crossed, and the train stops at

Stat. Duren {Bellevue), the Marcodumm of Tacitus, a busy,
manufacturing town, situated in a fertile plain. Beyond stat.
Buir, the church-spire of Kerpen is seen to the r. Stat.
Horrem is situated in the luxuriant vale of the Erft. On
the 1. stand the castles of Frenz and ffemmersbach or Horrem,
This valley abounds with castles of the Rhenish nobility, who
have founded an institution for the education of their sons
at Bedburgy 6 M. to the N.W. of Horrem. The valley of the
Erft is soon quitted by the Konigsdorf tunnel, 1 M. in length,
on emerging from which

Stat. KOnigsdorf is reached. Farther on, to the r. in
the distance, is seen the village oi Brauweiler, with its ancient
Benedictine Abbey, now a reformatory and workhouse. The
old Abbey Church, erected at the commencement of the 13th cent.,
in the late Romanesque style, contains an engraved tombstone
of the 15th cent., and some ancient frescoes on the vaulted
ceiling of the chapter-house, both valuable in the history of art.

As Cologne is approached the line traverses a rich and
fertile plain, studded with detached houses and factories. The
hills to the r. are the spurs of the Vorgebirge, a low range
of hills which commence on the I. bank of the Rhine between
Cologne and Bonn. Cologne s. R. 10.

6. From Rotterdam to Dtisseldorf.

By Steamboat daily (Diisseldorf Co. dep. at 6, Netherlands Co. at
8 a.m.; the former in counection with the Gen. Steam Nav. Co. three times
a week, the latter with the "Batavia" once a week, in 24hrs.; less fatiguing

14 Route 5. ROTTERDAM. From Rotterdam

and expensive than by railway; fares: 2 Thlr. 4, 1 Thir. 13 8gr, ; 100 lbs. of
luggage free.

By railway in 6V4hrs.; fares: 6Thlr.l6, 4Tblr.22, and 3 Thlr. 9V2 8gr.
The principal stations are Gouda, ArnJieim, Emmerich (Prussian custom-
house), Wesel and Oberhauseu.

Rotterdam («New Bath Hotel; *Sl. Lucas; Areud; Adler's
Engl, and American Hotel; Weimer; Yerhaareii; the last two for
travellers of moderate requirements), %e^ Baedeker's Belgique et IloUande.

Soon after the steamer has quitted the ^^ Boompjes'* or
quay, with its handsome rows of houses and animated traffic,
t)ie machine-factory and wharf of

r. Fijefioord is reached. It belongs to the Netherlands
Steamboat Co. and employs upwards of 700 hands. Permission
to inspect this interesting estab. may be obtained from the
director M. van Oord at Rotterdam. Ferry-boat to Rotterdam
every quarter of an hour, fare 5 cents.

1. Kraiingeriy with extensive salmon-fishery; the utmost
care is here employed to ensure the security of the dykes
which confine the river.

r. Ysaelmonde, opp. to the influx of the Yssel (not to be
confounded with the river of that name in Guelders) into the
Meuse (Maas). The turreted chateau in the vicinity belonged
to a former burgomaster of Rotterdam.

r. 't Huts ten Donk, a handsome country residence, sur-
rounded by trees which extend to the waters edge.

1. Krimpen, near the confluence of the Leek (as the Rhine
is here termed) and the Meuse.

r. Kinderdijk, a long row of netit houses, with numerous
windmills, derives its name (= children's dyke) from a tra-
dition that some children in a cradle were here landed in
safety during an inundation.

1. Lekkerkerkj protected by long dykes from the inundations
of the Leek.

r. Stree/kerk, with a picturesque church.

1. Schoonhoven; r. Nieuiv/oort.

T. Ameyde, where the Zederick Canal intersects the entire
island of Betuwe; LJaarsveld.

1. Vreeswykf whence on the arrival of the steamboats a
diligence runs to Utrecht, and also a passenger-boat on the
canal which here connects Utrecht with the Rhine. Vreeswyk
is the limit of the rise and fall of the tide.

r. Vianen (Brederode). Between this and Culenborg are
water-gates or sluices, by means of which the entire district
may be laid under water in case of a hostile invasion. To
the r., and farther on, to the 1., are situated two fortified
block-houses, constructed for the defence of the river.

r. Culenborg^ with its low tower, surrounded by wood,
was once the seat of the powerful counts of that name, who

to Dusseldorf, ARNHEIM. 5. Route. 15

acted a prominent part in the struggles of the Dutch in 1566
to liberate themselves from the Spanish yoke.

1. H^i/k by Dtmrstede, now a fortress, the Batavodurum of
the Romans, was in the time of Charlemagne a flourishing
commercial town. The steamboat here enters the Rhine,,
properly so called. The narrow river which diverges to the 1.
retains the name of Rhine, and passing by Utrecht and Leyden^
empties itself into the North Sea.

1. The tower of Amerongen; then EUt^ a long straggling
village.

1. Rhenen (Konig von Biihmen) possesses a Gothic church,
the tower of which, erected between 1492 and 1531, is the
finest in Holland.

Halfway between Rhenen and Wageningen rises the Heimen-
herg (*Ridder), a slight eminence commanding an extensive
view. The Konigssitz, a bench on the summit, derives its
name from Frederick, Count Palatine and king of Bohemia,
who having been expelled from his territory after a battle
near Prague in 1620, repaired to Rhenen, where he lived in
retirement under the protection of his uncle Prince Maurice
of Orange.

r. Opheusden, with a Hying bridge.

1. Wageningen, a small but ancient town of some im-
portance, connected with the Rhine by a canal, and situated
iVj M. from the railway stat. Ede.

r. The villages of Renkum and Heteren.

The banks now become more elevated and picturesque;
the district to the 1. is termed the Veluwe^ to the r. the Betuwe,
signifying respectively the barren and the fruitful tract. To
the 1. the castle of Doorenward with its two towers ; beyond
it Duinhoog; then Oosterbeek, with several villas, birthplace of
the £mp. Henry III. (1017). To the r. the spire of the village
of Elsen; then the small castle oi Meinerswijk. The wooded
chain of hills to the 1., as Arnheim is approached, is sprinkled
with country residences.

1. Arnheim. {*Zon, outside the N.W. gate, the nearest
to the railway stat. and the pier of the Netherlands Co.;
*Zwi/nshoofd [Schweifiskopf, boar's head, a sign frequently
seen in Holland] in the town; * Hotel de Bellevue; * Hotel dea
Pays-Bas, near the pier of the Diisseldorf Co. ; de Puauw, not
far from the stat. good 2nd el. house.) — Arnheim with a pop.
of 20,904 (Yj Rom. Cath.), was long the seat of the Dukes of
Guelders, and is still the capital of the province of that name.
An ancient proverb describes the inhabitants as: ^^Hoog van
moed, klein imn goed, een zwaard in de hand, is *t wapen van
Gelderland" (High of mood, little of good, sword in hand, is

16 Route 5. EMMERICH. From Rotterdam

the coat of arms of Guelderiand). The town , situated on the
S. slopes of the chain of hills of the Veluwe, was newly-
fortified after its capture by the French in 1672. In 1813
the French, who again occupied the town and possessed a
strongly fortified camp in the vicinity, were expelled by the
Prussians.

Although a good specimen of a clean Dutch town, it offers
little to detain the traveller. The Groote Kerk (large church)
contains several monumoots of Dukes of Guelders. The Town
Hall derives its local appellation of Duivelshuis (deviFs house)
from the grotesque figures with which it is adorned.

The environs far surpass those of any other Dutch town.
The estate of * Hartjesberg, the property of a wealthy Dutch
gentleman, deserves a visit (entrance near the railway stat., Yj M.
to the N. of the town). The park and grounds are open to
the public; the traveller, however, is recommended to apply
to the custodian (at the lodge), for the sake of gaining access
to the Belvedere, or tower, the prospect from which will
amply repay the ascent.

Immediately below the town is situated the Rehberg, a
slight eminence laid out as pleasure-grounds. Higher up is
the country-seat Heidenoord (or "rfe Koepely^ = cupola); in
the adjoining wood are walks and benches in all directions.
In the opp. direction, 3 M. to the E. of Arnhelm, lies the
flourishing village of Velp, the hills near which are studded
with elegant country residences and pleasure-grounds.

To the 1. the Yssel diverges to the N. and flows into the
Zuider Zee. To the r. Buissen.

1. Haus Loo, or Candioy an old castle; then the village of
Pannerden.

Near the village of Millingen a small gun-boat, moored in
the middle of the stream, indicates the vicinity of the frontier.

1. Lobith, the last Dutch village ; opp. to it lies the ancient
frontier of Schenkenschanz, formerly considered the key of the
Netherlands, and once situated at the bifurcation (now lower
down) of the Waal and the Rhine. Near this spot Louis XIV.
crossed the river, at that time nearly dry in consequence of
the unusual heat, June 12th, 1672, with a large army, for the
purpose of conquering Holland. On this occasion the Prince
of Conde was wounded. As Emmerich is approached, the
wooded heights on which the town of Gleve (p. 17 and 39) is
situated, are perceived to the r.

1. Emmerich (Holldndiacher Ho/), the frontier town of
Prussia, clean, and possessing as many Dutch as German
features. The Munster church, at the lower extremity of the
town, is in the transition style of the 11th — 12th cent.

to Diisseldorf. XANTEN. 5. Route. 17

(Railway by Arnheim and Utrecht to Amsterdam in 4 hrs. ;
fares 3 Thlr. 16 Va, 2 Thlr. 20, or 1 Thlr. 23 V^ Sgr.)

r. Grieth.

1. Rees, once strongly fortified.

r. Xanten (Ingenlath), 2^4 M. from the Rhine, is a town
of great antiquity, and was the Castra vetera and Colonia
Ulpia of the Romans, the head-quarters of the 30th {Ulpia
victrix), the 18th, and 19th Legions, which were destroyed in
the battle of the Teutoburgian wood. Here too stood the
castle of the Nibelungen, and here Siegfried the dragon-slayer
(p. 49) was born. On the Furstenhery ^ an eminence in the
vicinity, was situated the Prastorium of Quintilius Varns.
The * Collegiate church of St. Victor, erected in 1213—1522,
is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The choir, locked
by a fine copper gate, is worthy of attention; the cloisters contain
several tombstones valuable in the history of art.

The traveller descending the river who Irishes to proceed direct to Clevo
should here leave the steamboat and take a carriage (1'4 Thlr.) to Galoar,
the Gothic church of which contains a remarkably line altar-piece by Johann
of Calcar, and below it some admirably carved wood -work. Calcar was the
birth-place of the celebrated Prussian General von Seydlitz (d. 1773), the
conqueror at the battle of Rossbach. A handsome monument to this hero
stands in the market-place.

1. Wesel {*Dornbusch), a strongly fortified town, with a
population of 13,000 (7000 Rom. Cath.), is situated at the con-
fluence of the Rhine and Lippe. The Rathhaus, or Town-hall,
is a handsome building, and dates from 1396. St. Willibrord's
church contains a marble tablet which records that Peregrine
Bertie, son of Willoughby d'Eresby and Catharine, Duchess
of Suffolk, was born here in 1555. The exiles, who were
Protestants, and had fled from the persecutions of Queen Mary,
were permitted by the magistrates of Wesel, as no other re-
sidence could be found, to take up their quarters in the
church, which was then unoccupied. — The boat then passes
through the bridge which connects the Island of Buderich
with Fort Blucher, the tete-de-pont of Wesel on the r.

r. Oraoy, formerly fortified and frequently besieged.

1. Ruhrort (p. 12), at the influx of the Ruhr, where the
boats of the Netherlands Co. only touch.

r. Homherg (p. 12), terminus of the Aix-la-Chapelle line,
where the Diisseldorf Co.'s boats touch.

r. Uerdingen (p. 12), whence the church-tower of Duisburg
(p. 20) is visible rising from the plain.

1. Kaiserswerth (p. 19). The walls and bow- windows of
an old castle of the Hohenstaufen are visible from the river.

1. Diisseldorf.

Babdbkbr's Rhine. 2

6. Dtisseldorf.

Hotels. Prince of Prussia, Prince Frederick and European
Hotel, near the station. *Breidenbacher Hof, Drei Reichskro-
nen and Hutel Domhardt, in tlie town; charges: K. 15, B. 8, D. 20 6gr.
— *KolnerHof; * Romischer Kaiser, a good second-class house (U.
and B. 20, good table d'hote 17 Sgr.)

Cafto. Geisler, in the Mittelstrasse and on the Ananasberg in the
Hofgarten; Jungius, Burgplatz 11, good supply of newspapers. The
summer-theatre and the Harmonic Hall, where the musical festivals are held
once a year, as well as "Geisler's Garden" (refreshments), now belong to
the town.

Seat&uraatSt Railtray refreshment room at the Cologne -Mindeu
station; ^Stelzmann, opp. to the station; *Seulen, *Drevermanu
and Germer in the Carlsplatz. Railway refreshment room at the
Elberfeld station.

Exhibition of art in the Alleestrasse, 781 ; admission 5 Sgr.

Carriage*. For a drive in the down 5 Sgr., '/^ hr. 10, 1 hr. 15 Sgr.

English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain in the smaller
Protestant Church, Bergerstrasse.

Dtisseldorf (46,849 inhab., of iwhom 8604 are Prot., and
600 Jews) is a handsome and regularly -built town of com-
paratively modern origin. It was chosen at the commencement
of the 15th cent, as a residence by the Dukes of Berg, and
on their becoming extinct in 1609, it continued to be the
residence of the princes of the Palatinate till 1716, when
they transferred their seat to Mannheim and afterwards to
Munich. Under Joachim Mtirat (1806—8), and Napoleon
(1808 — 13), Dusseldorf continued to be the capital town of
the Duchy of Berg; in 1815 it became subject to the crown,
of Prussia.

Dusseldorf may be called the Rhenish cradle of art; it»
Academy of Art (PI. 2) conducted (1822—26; by Cornelius,
up to 1860 by Schadow (d. 1861) and subsequently by Bende-
mann, enjoys a widely extended celebrity. It is situated in
one of the wings of the Electoral palace, rebuilt since its
almost total destruction by the French in 1794.

All the valuable pictures of the once so celebrated Diissel-
dorf Gallery^ founded at the beginning of the 18th cent, were,
during the unsettled times of 1805, taken to Munich by Max.
Joseph, king of Bavaria, under the pretext of ensuring their
safety. The town has since then been unable to recover
them, and they form to this day the most valuable part of
the collection in the old Pinakothek.

The Gallery now contains a valuable collection of upwards of 14,000
original sketches and drawings by tbe most celebrated artists of all schools,
and 248 water-colour copies of Italian masters by Ramboux, affording a good,
survey of Italian art from the 14th to tbe 16th cent. It also contains a few
good pictures.

The *Town-Collection (admission 5 Sgr., open from 9 to 6 o' clock>
in the r. wing of the Academy, recently commenced, contains some fine
modern pictures.

^^tiibSsKas its

Hofgarten, DtJSSELDORF. 6. Route, 19

The palace ' contains a Library of some value ; in the
court is a marble statue of the Elector Johann Wilhelm, who
wafi born in Dusseldorf (d. 1716). An "^ Equeatrian statue
of the same elector stands in the market-place.

The churches of Dusseldorf present few features of archi-
tectural interest. That of St. Andreas (PI. 9) contains
several good modern pictures, and in a separate hall of the
choir the embalmed remains of several electors, princes, and
princesses of the place. St. Lambertus (PI. 15) belongs to
the transition style of the 14th cent., and contains a marble
monument to the last two dukes of Cleves and Berg, erected
in 1629. On one of the N. pillars is the tombstone of the
celebrated chancellor Melchior Voetz (Voetius) (d. 1675).

The handsome new Post-office buildings, near the railway
stations, are erected in the Florentine palatial style; the black
marble pillars which support the steps were brought from the
Neanderthal (p. 20).

The ''^ Hofg'arten (PI. 11) is tastefully laid out, and affords
most delightful walks. Near the entrance is situated a large
hot-house for tropical plants (Victoria-Regia-Haus); near it a
black marble pillar with bust of Queen Stephanie of Portugal^
a princess of Hohenzollern (d. 1860). — The Jclgerhof is
fitted up as a princely residence, and was till 1848 seat of
Prince Frederick of Prussia; since 1850 it has been occupied
by the Prince of Hohenzollern -Sigmaringen. — The adjoining
Jacobi's Garden was once the property of the eminent phi-
losopher Fred. Henry Jacobi (d. 1819), and a favourite resort
of many of the greatest men of the day, of Goethe and Herder
among others. It now belongs to a society of artists, and is
the central point of their social life.

In the vicinity of Dusseldorf there are several excellent
Protestant institutions of various kinds. Diisselthal, formerly
a Tra.ppist monastery, situated near the Cologne and Minden
line, a little to the N. of the town, is now converted into a
Protestant establishment for homeless children, 180 — 200 of
whom are here educated. Connected with the institution is
a seminary for teachers of the poor.

The ancient town of Xaiserswerth (JPfdlzer Hof)^ 1 Vg M.
W. from the Calcum station, which the train from Dusseldorf
reaches in 20 min., is the seat of similar charitable institutions
on a much greater scale than those above mentioned. They
were foanded by the Protestant pastor Fliedner in 1836, and
comprise a hospital (500 — 600 patients), a training school for
Protestant Sisters of Charity, Governesses' institution, orphan
asylum, female Reformatory, and establishment for the cure
of female lunatics*

20 Route 7. DUISBURG.

The old Church of Kaiserswerth, in the Romanesque style,
erected in the 12th — 13th cent., contains an admirably exe-
CQted Shrine of the 13th cent., in which the relics of St. Suit-
bertus, who first preached the Gospel here in 710, are preserved.
Of the ancient palace in which the Emperor Henry IV. once
resided nothing is now left but a few fragments, called the
"K^nigsburg".

In the wood to the 1. of the station of Grossenbaum is
the Castle of Heltorf property of Count Spee, which contains
various treasures of art, among which may be mentioned some
^frescoes of the older Diisseldorf school.

Duisburg (Rheinischer Hof), the next station, is also a
very ancient town, fortified by Charlemagne, from 1145 — 1201
Imperial town, then a member of the Hanseatic league, and
till 1818 seat of a university founded in 1655. The Salvator-
kirche is a handsome Gothic edifice of the 15th century.
Population 14,000 (Rom. Cath. 5000). The Rhenish- West-
phalian Institution for Deacons , whose duty is to assist tha
clergy in attendance on the sick, convicts, &c., connected
with a hospital, school for homeless boys, and Reformatory
(the latter at Lintorfy 6 M. distant), is a Protestant establish-
ment, and has a widely-extended sphere of utility.

7. From Diisseldorf to Dortmund by

Elberfeld.

Comp. Map R. 4.

By Railway in 3 — 4 hrs. ; fares: 72, 53, or 35 8gr. (comp, p. 23). Tho
district traversed is picturesque and industrial; the grand construction of
the line itself is an object of interest. Views to the 1.

The station is by the "Prince of Prussia'* hotel (p. 18).
From the convent of G^rresheim (first station, fine churcli
of the l2th cent.), the Archbishop Gebhard of Cologne
(d. 1601) abducted the beautiful Countess Agnes of Mansfeld.
After passing Erkrath (hydropathic estab.), the train ascends
a steep acclivity to Hochdahl (large iron-foundry of Bin-
trachf), which lies 480 ft. higher than Dusseldorf.

One mile to the 1. of Hochdahl is situated the romantic Neaaderttial
{* Steineshof i Holthofer)., a narrow wooded ravine through which xht Dutsel
flows. Tlie valley contains several limestone caverns, the largest of which,
90 ft. long, 40 ft. broad, and 16 ft. high, was a favorite resort of the eminent
Protestant preacher and poet Joachim NeandeVy who lived at Diisseldorf
from 1640 to 1666, and from whom the valley derives its name. This cavern
is best visited from the Steineshof, from which it is '/^ M. distant. The
quarries of the valley yield black and grey marble, which is cut into monu-
ments, vases, Ac.

At Vohwinkel (stat. for Grdfraih and Solingen) is the
junction of the Prince William line (Steele- Vohwinkel) , prin-
cipally used for the coal -traffic of the Ruhr.

ELBERFELD. 7. Route. 21

The * Prince WilUun Bailway traverses the mountains which form the boun-
dary between the Wupper and the Ruhr, then continues along the narrow
winding vaHey of the Deile, and at D i 11 d o r f enters the broad and picturesque
valley of the Ruhr, which affords a most striking contrast to the ravine of the
Deile. At the small town of Steele (Badenberg) the Prince William line
unites with the "Bergisch-Markisch", which now affords direct communi-
cation between Dortmund f Bochum, Steele, Essen, Muhlheim and Duishurg.

At Sonnbom the train suddenly enters the valley of the
Wupper, which it traverses, and then skirts the hillside, com-
manding a view of Elberfeld in the valley below.

Elberfeld (* Gurpfdher Hof; * Weidenhof, near the Dop-
persberg stat.; Maimer Hof; Post), with a pop. of 54,000
(12,000 Rom. Cath.), and the adjoining town of Barxnen
{Clever Hof), with 45,000, form together a series of streets
of nearly 6. M. in length, intersected by the road, the railway,
and the Wupper, which is the principal source of the industry
of this flourishing manufacturing district. With the exception
of s'ome English towns, there is probably no spot in the
world which is so densely populated. Its principal manu-
factures are cotton, silk, ribbon, and turkey- red dyed goods.
Some of the churches are handsome structures, but are all,

like the towns themselves, of very modern date.

One point in Elberfeld well deserves to be visited by the lovers of the
picturesque — the *£liaeiih5he, situated in the Haardt, or so called ''£ng-
lish Grounds," which contain a statue of St. Suitbertus^ an Englishman who
first propagated Christianity in this district (d. at Kaiserswerth in 713).
The summit of the tower commands a most magnificent and peculiar view of
the whole valley of the Wupper, crowded with its numerous factories, hand-
some private residences, and other buildings.

The train next stops at the station of Bcurmen (see above),

and Bittershausexi. At the latter the line crosses the

Wupper, leaves the Duchy of Berg, and enters the Grafschaft

Mark. The next station is Schwelm {Hotel Rosenkranz; Prim

von Preussen), Yj hr. distant from Elberfeld by railway.

Not far from the Schwelxner Brunnen, a mineral spring
now seldom resorted to by invalids, begins a long and deep
railway cutting, where numerous fossils are found; on emerg-
ing from it at ICilspe a most striking view is obtained of
the valley of the Ennepe. (About 1 M. up the valley from
the station is situated the Klutert, a large stalactite cavern.)

At Gevelabery, a long straggling village on the Schwelm road. Count
Frederick of Isenburg slew his cousin Engelbert, Archbishop of Cologne,
on his return from the Diet of knights at Soest, before which he had sum-
moned the Count to answer for his misconduct with regard to the Abbeys of
Essen and Werden. The Count was condemned to death, and, when he was
apprehended a year later, broken on the wheel at Cologne,

The valley of the Enfiepe is also noted as a manufacturing
district, and contains numerous iron -hammers and foundries,
especially at the station of Haspe.

Hagen {Deutsches Haus; LUnenschloss) , another manu-
facturing town, lies % M. from the station. (Railway from

22 Route 7. DORTMUND.

Hagen to Siegen, or Ruhr-Sieg line, see p. 41). Soon after

passing it, the train crosses the Volme^ and a second time at

Herdecke. The view to the N. W. is here hounded by the

Ardey mountains which descend precipitously into the valley

of the Ruhr.

On one of these mountains, ^^/^ M. from Herdecke, rise the ruins of
"'Hoheii-Svbnrg, once the fortress of Wittekind, the last Duke of Saxony,
who for 32 years fought against Christianity and the Franconian power, till
he was conquered and compelled to submit to the rite of baptism by Charle-
magne in 775. The ceremony, so says the tradition, was performed by Pope
Leo himself in the presence of the emperor, who became godfather to the
heathen duke. The font still exists and the effigies of the emperor and
Pope are still distinguishable above the door. The small church is incou-
testibly one of the oldest in Gerraaay. View very fine. •Inn near the ruin.
At the foot of the hill the Lenne falls into the Ruhr.

The train now skirts the Kaiserberg, where Charlemagne
is said once to have had a camp. On an eminence of the
r. bank of the Ruhr the picturesque village of Wetter, , with
a ruined castle, comes in view. On the opposite (1.) side,
lies the picturesque village of Volmarstein (* Wehberg)^ with
an old castle commanding a magnificent prospect, a spot much
frequented by visitors from the neighbourhood. The train now
crosses and follows the course of the Ruhr, and soon reaches
the long straggling manufacturing and colliery-town of Wit-
ten {Hotel Grdfe; * Glitz, on the 1. bank, opp. to the town).
The background of the picturesque landscape is formed by
the castle of Steinhausen, situated on a wooded eminence.
Farther down the valley are the ruins of the castle of Har-
denstein, in ancient times a seat of Wittekind (see above).

The finest point of the valley of the Ruhr is at the small town of Blan-
kenstein (Forstmann), 6 M. from Witten. *Gethmann*8 Garten, situated
here, commands a noble prospect of the valley , and is much resorted to by
lovers of the picturesque from the neighbouring towns. From Blankensteiii
the traveller may proceed on foot by Hattingen to Nierenhof (i'/z M.), a
station on the Steele and Yohwinkel line.

The tract of country from this point to the mouth of the
Ruhr at Ruhrort (p. 12) is one of the principal colliery
districts in Prussia, and yields considerably more than one
third of the coal consumed in the kingdom.

Dortmund {Romischer Kaiser, in the town; Bellevue, at
the station; pop. 22,093, V3 Rom. Cath.), which is reached
in 25 min. more, one of the most important stations on the
Cologne and Minden line, was once an imperial town and
member of the Hanseatic league, and was governed by its
own counts. Some of the churches are the only buildings
which still bear testimony to the antiquity of the place. The
choir (1421 — 50) of the church of St Reinoldi contains old
stained-glass windows, on some of the panes of which is
represented the Imperial eagle in the Westphalian colours
(green, black, and white). The altar is decorated with an old

ESSEN. 8. Route. 23

carved- wood Crucifixion, with the 12 Apostles; choir-stalU
in the late Gothic style of the 15th cent, pulpit, rich "renais-
sance" style. The lofty and elegant * Marie nkirche ., nave
Romanesque, choir Gothic, contains a picture, representing the
Adoration of the Magi, painted at the commencement of the
15th cent, hy a master of the Westphalian school, a branch
of that of Cologne. The Gothic Dominican Church (choir
1353) also contains an altar-piece by a master of the same
school, painted in 1508. The carved stone shrine near the
high-altar also deserves inspection.

In the history of the middle ages Dortmund is a place of great im-
portance. When, on the fall of Henry the Lion (1182), a complete state of
anarchy and lawlessness prevailed throughout the whole of Germany, the
celebrated Ve h mgerich t, or Secret Tribunal, was formed in Westphalia, and,
in the 14th and 15th centuries, had extended its sway over the whole empire.
The number of the initiated, who were bound by the most fearful oaths to
execute the decrees of the tribunal, is said to have exceeded 100,000. In
Westphalia alone was the Freigraf^ or president of the society, privileged
to hold meetings for the purpose of receiving new members. Dortmund was
the seat of the highest court, and here, in the '•^ Konigshof under the linden-
trees*"^ the Emperor Sigismund was himself initiated in the year 1429. Lat-
terly, however, the tribunal degenerated to little more than a common police-
court, before which the inhabitants of Dortmund and the vicinity carried
their grierances. The last session held by this society here took place
in 1803.

One of the lime-trees in the Konigshof at Dortmund still
exists, and is believed to be upwards of 400 years old. It
stands on a slight eminence to the W. of the station.

8. From Dortmund to Dtlsseldorf by

Oberhausen.

Camp. Map R. 4,

By the Cologne and Mi n den line in 2*/^ hrs. ; fares: 64, 43, or
32 Sgr.

The journey from Dortmund to Dusaeldorf by this route is
less interesting than that above described. The country tra-
versed is one Of those flat agricultural tracts so characteristic of
many parts of Germany, and described by Tacitus, Germania 16,

The principal place of interest on this line is Essen
{Schmidt; Sauer; Berykaus; pop. 17,054, Prot. 6000), ly, M.
from the station, one of the most ancient towns in the
district, and till 1802 a free Imperial town. The * Munster-
kirche (with octagonal choir of the 10th cent.), founded by
the Emperor Otto III., contains a curious old brazen chan-
delier, presented in 998 by the Abbess Mechtildis, sister of
Otto III., and, among other treasures, four golden crosses,
richly decorated v^ith precious stones, presented in 974 by
the Abbess Alhaidis, daughter of Otto I., and a MS. of the
Gospels, with a covering of gold and carved ivory, a gift

24 Route 9. OBERHAUSEN.

of the Abbess Theophanu (d. 1060). The Cloisters, as well
as a fine altar-piece of 1522 by de Bruyn^ were restored in
1850. Essen is the central point of this extensive colliery
district, and is surrounded by innumerable foundries and
manufactories. Of these Krupp's Cast Steel Works deserve
especial mention ; the products of this vast estab. (portions of
machinery, steel cannons, etc.) have acquired a European re-
putation. To the S. of the town, at the Kettwiger Thor, is
situated the station of the Witten-Daisburg-Oberhausen railway.

The small and picturesquely situated to^ii of Werden on the Ruhr M'as
once the seat of a very aocient Benedictine Abbey, "where the '^Codex ar-
genteus," a translation of the Gospels made in the 4th cent, by order of the
Gothic Bishop Ulfilas, a most valuable specimen of the ancient German
language, was formerly preserved. It fell into the hands of the Swedes in
the 30 years' war, and is now deposited at the university of Upsala. The
* Church deserves particular inspection, especially the beautiful portal on
the N. side. The crypt (1059) contains the stone sarcophagus of 8t. Ludgerus
(<I. im), the first bishop of Munster.

Near Oberhausen (^Railway refreshment-room) is one
of the most extensive foundries in this district, which employs
1600 men and contains 8 different steam-engines. The land
is poor and sterile, but its richness in coal renders it in
many places worth 700 — 800/. per acre.

Oberhausen is the most animated station on the line, and
is daily passed by about 80 trains.

9. From Btisseldorf to Cologne.

Comp. Map R. 4,

By the Cologne and lUinden Railway in I'/a hr. ; fares: 30, 20, and
15 8gr. The express trains stop at the Central station at Cologne, the ordin-
ary at Dents (p. 38). — By steamboat in 5 hrs. (down in 2*/^ hrs.).
Conveyances see p. 18.

Beyond stat. Benrath stands a handsome royal Palace
among the trees to the 1., erected in 1756 — 60 by the Elector
Palatine Charles as a residence for his widow. Beyond stat.
Xiangenfeld the line crosses the Wupper (p. 21), passes close
by the castle of Retischenherg (to the 1.), and at stat. Ktlpper-
steg^ crosses the Duhn. The river is approached at Mill-
helm, a wealthy, manufacturing town, which owes its pros-
perity to the Prot. citizens who emigrated from Cologne at
the beginning of the 17th cent. Below the town, on the
Rhine, lies Schloss* Stammheim, a seat of Count Furstenberg,
containing an extensive collection of engravings and portraits.

The steamboat- journey from Diisseldorf to Cologne in
somewhat tedious; the Rhine here presents no features of
natural beauty, though some of the places on its banks possess
an historical interest.

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10. Cologne.

Hotels. On the Rhine: *H6tel deHollande(Pl. d.), K. 16, L. 6, B. 10,
D. 20, A. 6Sgr.; Royal Hotel (PI. f); "Hotel de Cologue (PI. e), K.
and B.23, D. 17, A. T'/, Sgr. — Near the Rhine: •Hotel deKussie (PI. g).
No. 4. Fried. Wilhelm Strasse; Victoria Hotel, in tlie Heumarkt. — In
the town: Hotel Disch (PI. a); *Hdtel de Mayence (PI. b); *Hdtel
de Vie n lie (PI. c), all three near the post-office; in the two latter excellent
tables d'hute (20Sgr.); "Hutel dn Nord (PI. h), near the railway bridge.
— Second-class houses: *Hutel Ernst and * Hotel Kleff, K. and B. SO,
D. inc. W. 18 Sgr., both near to the central station; *Hdtel de Paris
(PJ. k) Drususgasse 3, R. and B. 20, D. inc. W. 19 Sgr.; *Laacher Hof
(PI. i), Near the Neumarkt, in the W. part of the town; "Hotel du Ddme,
Domhof 7, D. 17 Sgr. — In Deutz (Ist CI.) *Bellevue (PI. n), and *Prin2
Carl (PI. o), R. 15, L. 5, B. 8, A. 6 Sgr.; Hotel Fuchs.

Beatanraats. Hotel de Colo4;ne; Gertrudenhof; *LenB, Sand-
bahn No. 1; "Wanscheidt, in the Saloinonsgasse ; at the two latter beer
may be procured, viands moderate; *6urzenich Restaurant (entrance
from the Martiusstrasse) ; *^Kolner Banket- Ha us" in tlie Schildergasse.
^Refreshment-room at the central station.

Oafte and Oonfeotioners. *Cafe du Dome; St. Paul, nearest to tlie
central-station; Kobell, in the Schildergasse. — Hosier (best confectioner),
Oben-Marspforten ; Rei chard (good ices), Hochstrasse; Borse, in the
Heumarkt, well supplied with newspapers.

Oyaters and Delieaoies. Bettger and Co., kleiue Budengasse 6 (PI. r);
room fitted up in the Moorish style.

Public Beaorta. The gardens of tiie hotels at Deutz, which command a
fine view of Cologne, and where a military band plays on summer evening.s.
The bridge of boats is a favorite promenade. The Bayenhaus on the Rhine.
iit the 8. extrem. of the town* Zoological Garden (p. 37), Briihl
(see R. 36).

Theatre in the Comodienstrasse, representations daily. Summer>thea-
tre (Victoria-theatre), 5 — 8 p.m., at the Thurmchen (see above);
another at the Konigshalle (see above).

Conoerts once a fortnight in winter in the Giirzenich. Cologne is the
seat of the Rhenish School of Music.

* Diorama (PI. 8), Wolfsgasse 5, near the Neumarkt (p. 34). Admission
15 or 10 Sgr. The second places are scarcely inferior to the first.

Zoolofioal Oardon , */« ^* below the town nearly opposite to Miilheim ;
grounds tastefully laid out, valuable collection of animals; adm. 10 Sgr.
Adjacent to it is the Botanical Garden of the ** Flora" company.

XiUtary music daily at 11 '/^ (Sundays at 12) in the Neumarkt.

Baths. Wann at 8 legends, in the Schildergasse; in the floating bath-
establishment, entrance from the bridge. Cold in the Rhine, below the
Trankgasse, to the rear of the Rheinau, aud at the Bayenthurm; on the r.
bank below the garden of the "Bellevue" in Deutz, near which is also the
Swimming-bath, 5 Sgr.

Bailway Stations. The trains to Bingen, Aix-la- Chapelle and Crefeldy
and the express trains of the Cologne aud Minden line (R. 8j, start from
the Centralstation (N. from the Cathedral), ordinary trains on the
Cologne and Minden, or Giessen line (R. 52) start from Deutz.

Steamboats, see Introd. Small steamers ply continually to Mulheim
(2 Sgr.), starting from the bridge of bSats.

Carriag es. 1^2 pers. 5, 3 pers. 7'/,, 4 pers. 10 Sgr. for each drive within
the town or to the stations. To Deutz at the same charges, with the addition
of 6 Sgr. for bridge-toll. By time. For '/, hr. 1 — 2 pers. TV,, 3-4 pers.
10 Sgr. For waiting, 2'/, Sgr. for every ten min. Before 7 a.m. and after
10 p.m. 5 Sgr. more than the above fares is charged.

26 Route 10, COLOGNE.

Porterage from the steamboat to the carriage for 1 — 2 packages lSgr..»
for each additional package 6 Pf. For a haad-cart into the town , with lug-
gage not exceeding 3 cwt., 7 Sgr.

Eau de Cologne. The best may be procured at one of the firms Farina^
opp. to the Julichsplatz, Hochstrasse 129, Ac, and at ZanoWs^ iu the same
street.

Painted porcelain vases, fruit-baskets, &c., in the Drususgasse , opposite
the new Museum.

Snglish Ohnrch Serraee performed by a resident chaplain at No. 8
Rheingasse.

Plan where time is limited: Cathedral^ interior, and walk round the
external choir -gallery (p. 28); 8t. Gereon (exterior and interior, p. 33,
PI. 36); Church of the Apostles (exterior, p. 33, PI. 30); St. Maria tin Ca-'
pitol (interior, p. 34, PI. 40); Gurzenich (p. 35, PI. 15); Facade of the
Town- hall (p. 35, PI. 26); Muaeum (p. 36, PI. 45), iron bridge (p. 37).

Two days. The above-mentioned churches from 7 to 10 a.m. The

* Museum (p. 36), and Diorama (p. 25, PI. 8). In the afternoon the

* Cathedral, the Archiepiscopal Museum, walk along the Rhine and on the
bridge, evening in the hotel - gardens at Deuts (p. 38). The principal
churches &c. may be most conveniently visited in the following order:
cursory glance at the Cathedral (p. 28, PI. 9); St. Cunibert (p. 32, PI. 33); * St.
Ursula (p. 32, Pi. 49); Jesuits* (p. 32, PI. 20); St. Andreas (p. 32, PI. 29);
through the Comodieustrasse (1. Courts of law, PI. 21; 1. Arsenal^ PI. 54;
r. Government buildings, PI. 27; 1. Romans' towers p. 33); * St. Gereon
(p. 33, Pi. 36); * Apostles' p. 33, PI. 30), the new Mauritius Church
<P1. 44); cross the Ncumarkt (1. the horses' heads, p. 34), past the Hospital
(p. 34, PI. 4), to St. Peter^s (p. 34, PI, 47); leaving the latter by the 8.
door in the Sternengasse , past Rubens* house (p. 34, PI. 19), to * St. Marien
(p. 34, PI. 40); leave the latter by the N. door in the Lichhof, proceed to
the * Gilrtenich (p. 35, PI. 15); Town -hall (p. 35, Pi. 26); * St. Martin
(p. 36, PI. 38); Minoritenkirche and the ac^acent * Museum (p. 36).

The names of the streets leading to the Rhine (W. to B.) are painted,
red, of those parallel to the Rhine (N. to 8.) black.

IPolice -station (PI. 23), Glockengasse 30. — Royal bank (PI. 2),
Cacilienstrasse 4. — General post-office (PI. 24), Glockengasse 25—27. —
Telegraph-office, at the Central station.]

Cologne owes its foundation to the Ubii, who when hard
pressed by the Suevi, removed their capital town from the
r. bank of the Rhine to the 1., to the spot which the present
city of Cologne occupies. Here, A.D. 50, Agrippina, the
daughter of Germanicus, and mother of Nero, founded a co-
lony of Roman veterans, which was called Colonia Agrippi-
nensis, and afterwards Colonia Claudia Agrippina. The new
settlement soon became the capital town of Lower Germany.
In 308 Constantine the Great commenced to construct a stone
bridge over the Rhine, which connected Marspforten with
what was then the island of St. Martin, and thence crossed
to Deutz; the remnants of the pillars may still be seen when
the river is very low. The present Rathhaus, or Town-hall,
is believed to occupy the site of the Prcetorium of the Roman
colony; from here the old Roman wall extended towards the
Gurzenich (Merchants' Hall), and beyond it to the church of
St. Maria im Capitol, past which the Rhine is said formerly
to have flowed, and to have surrounded the present Alten-
markt, at that time an island. The above-mentioned bridge

History, COLOGNE. 10. Route. 27

formed a continuation of the present streets " auf der Brucke "
and "oben Marspforten"; it was, however, destroyed at the
time of the Norman invasion, and in 960 taken to pieces by
order of the Archbishop Bruno, who also caused the 1. arm
of the Rhine to be filled up.

In the middle ages (12th — 15th cent.) Cologne was a
most ilourishing commercial town. In 1201 it became incor-
porated in the Hanseatic league, and as such had its principal
depot at the Guildhall of London. In 1212 it became a free
town of the empire. Subsequently the archbishops, who were
continually at variance with the citizens, endeavoured to assert
their authority over them, but were repeatedly thwarted; the
city maintained its freedom, so that the archbishop Engelbert
was compelled in 1262 to transfer his residence to Bruhl,
And afterwards to Bonn. Feuds between the nobles and
the burghers, which occasioned the expulsion of a whole
corporation of weavers in 1370, who migrated to Aix-la-
Chapelle and Eupen, and of the Protestants in 1608, who
settled at Crefeld, Elberfeld, Dusseldorf, and Miilheim, proved
very prejudicial to the prosperity of the city. Cologne, how-
ever, still held its rank as the first Rhenish town, and was
moreover celebrated as a cradle of the fine arts. Some of
the pictures of the Cologne school are to be seen at the
Cathedral (p. 29) and the Museum (p. 36), whilst others are
preserved at the old Pinakothek at Munich, to which they
were taken by the well known picture* collectors Boisseree at
the time of the French Revolution. The only names of cele-
brity which have come down to our time are those of Meister
Wilhelm (1380) and Meister Stephan (1410). The town like-
wise boasted of a university, founded in 1388, and celebrated
as a philosophical and theological school. In later ages,
however, it lost its importance, and was finally abolished
about the close of the last century.

Until the occupation of the town by the French in 1794,
Cologne had maintained its privileges as a free Imperial city,
but had lost much of its ancient splendour and prosperity.
By the peace of Campo Formio in 1797 it became subject to
France, and was a town of the Roer Department, the capital
of which was Aix-la-Chapelle. In 1802 its monasteries and
other ecclesiastical establishments were secularized, and de-
clared national property. On Jan. 14th, 1814, the Russians
took possession of the place, and when, shortly afterwards,
the town became Prussian, it began to recover its former
importance. Since then it has rapidly increased in size and
affluence, and the energy and and public spirit of its citi-
zens have rendered it one of the most considerable commer-

28 Route 10,

COLOGNE.

CatkedraL

cial cities in Germany. The completion of the railway bridge
in 1859, one of the most massive structures by -which the
Rhine is crossed, has given an additional importance to the
place.

The population of Cologne is 113,081 (12,338 Prot., 2990
Jews), and the garrison consists of 4813 soldiers; Deutz has
5739 inhabitants and a garrison of 1719. The majority of
the streets are narrow and gloomy, and the 34 public squares
are planted with trees. The kitchen-gardens and vineyards^
which formerly occupied more than one quarter of the area
of the town, are rapidly giving place to new streets and build>
ings. Before the first revolution Cologne , once dignified
with the name of "holy'', contained upwards of 200 places
of worship and ecclesiastical establishments; the number of
churches is now 25, two of which are Protestant.

The ** Cathedral ^ or Dom, the grand point of attraction,
justly excites the admiration and wonder of every beholder,

whilst its still unfinished con-
dition is suggestive of the
abortiveness of human de-
signs. The master - mind
which planned this noble
pile is unknown, and the
original designs, the off-
springs of his fertile brain,
are for ever lost; could
M his dreams have been rea-
K^iz^f there is no doubt,
jS that, as now it is the most
^I^^Autiful fragment in ex-
istence, so it would have
been in its completion the
most magnificent and stu-
pendous edifice ever raised
by human hands to the
service of the Creator. The
foundation • stone was laid
by the Archbishop Conrad
of Hochsteden (p. 60), Aug.
14th, 1248, in presence of
the Emperor William , the
opponent of Frederick II.

' Caution. Travellers are recommended not to engage any of the nu-
merous valets-de-place who are always hovering about, in and near the
cathedral, as their services are perfectly unnecessary. The Nave with tl»e

<^aihedraL COLOGNE. 10. Route. 29

J- he first projector of a plan for the erection of a cathedral
^as the Archbishop Engelbert I., surnamed "the holy", who
was murdered on the Gevelsberg at Schwelm by Frederick
of Isenburg in 1225, and whose bones are preserved in a
silver casket in the treasury of the cathedral. The first archi-
tect is believed to have been Meister Gerard of Riehl, a village
near Cologne, to whom the Chapter made a grant in 1257
m recognition of his valuable services.

The construction of the sacred edifice progressed but
Slowly^ chiefly owing to the continual differences between the
archbishops and the townspeople, and the choir was not con-
secrated till 1322, under Archbishop Henry (Count of Virne-
ourg). The building was subsequently proceeded with, but at
last completely abandoned at the commencement of the 16th
cent. Since then it fell more and more to decay, and was
m 1796 converted by the French into a hay- magazine, its
rum being rendered more complete by the abstraction of the
lead from the roof.

The late enlightened king of Prussia, Frederick William IV.,
and his predecessor rescued the sacred edifice from total de-
struction. The latter caused it to be examined by the eminent
architect Schinkel in 1816, and from that time up to his
death in 1840, he expended upwards of 200,000 Thir. (30,000/.)
^pon its restoration. In addition to the above sum, donations
and subscriptions amounting to 120,000 Thlr. (18,000/.) were
devoted to the same object. During the reign of Fred.
William IV. a sum of 1,500,000 Thlr. (225,000/.), more than
naif of which was contributed from the royal purse, was
laid out on the building. The entire sum expended between
1842 and 1864 has exceeded 300,000/. The interior of the
cathedral has been completed since 1863. The partition which
separated the choir from the central nave is now removed,
8<D that the impression produced by the majestic proportions
of the whole is most profound. The magnificent Southern
Portal, 220 ft. in height, which alone cost 700,000 Thlr.
(105,000/.) was finished in 1859, as well as the less elabo-

stained-glass windows is open to tlie public the wiiole day, the choir, when
divine service is not being performed. The following are the only autho-
rized fees (1 — 5 pers.): 1. For opening the high-choir, the choir chapels,
and the Dombild (cathedral picture), 15 Sgr.; 2. For the attendant who
conducts the visitors along the upper choir-gallery, round the exterior of
the cathedral, and to the summit of the tower, 15 Sgr.; 3. For opening the
treasury, the shrine containing the relics of the Magi, and the Domblld,
IVs Thlr. Cards to be procured A-om the Suisse, who is generally to be
found in or near the transept. Any payment in addition to the above fees
is entirely gratuitous. The treasury and shrine of the Magi possess interest
for judges of art only.

30 Route iO, COLOGNE. CathedraL

rate Northern Portal, both of which were exclusively designed
by Zwirner (d. 1861), the talented architect who con-
ducted the work since 1833. Upon the Southern Tower the
crane with its long projecting arm (55 ft.), the landmark of
Cologne, is exactly in the same position as it was 400 years
ago, as may be seen from a painting in the Hospital of St.
John at Bruges. The entire structure, exclusive of the tow-
ers, is now nearly completed. The central tower (of iron)
and the iron frame>work of the roof of the body of the
church and transept were completed in 1861.

The Cathedral stands on a slight eminence (55 ft. above
the Rhine) which in the time of the Romans formed the
S. E. corner of their camp. The interior is 421 ft. long and
140 ft. broad; the transept is 234ft. long, and the choir 140 ft.
high. The portion appropriated to divine service occupies
an area of 70,000 sq. ft. The S. tower exhibits the most
complete harmony of design, but has attained little more than
Vjrd (189 ft.) of the projected height (476 ft.).

Stained-glass windows. The five windows in the N.
aisle, executed in 1508 — 9, are considered among the finest
existing specimens of the art. The new * windows in the
S. aisle were presented in 1848 by King Ludwig of Bavaria,
and prove that the almost obsolete art has in some respects
re-attained, if it does not surpass, its ancient glory.

Choir. Pedestals, which project from the 14 pillars of
the central part, bear statues, of value as specimens of the
sculpture of the beginning of the 14th cent. They represent
Christ, the Virgin, and the 12 Apostles. The 9 frescoes by
Steinle, and the tapestry, representing the Nicene creed, re-
cently worked by ladies of Cologne, on the wall behind the
choir -stalls, are worth inspection. The carved stalls them-
selves belong to the 14th cent. Above the inner gallery of
the high-choir is a series of admirable old stained-glass win-
dows, representing the kings of Judah &.c.

Chapels. 1st (Maternus) on 1. (to the N.): Tombstone of
Archbishop Philipp v. Heinsherg (d. 1191), in the form of a town-
wall with towers, gates, and turrets, an allusion to the fact
of his having been the founder of the fortifications of Cologne.
Fine old carved altar-piece, representing the Passion.

2nd. (Johannis) Tombstone of Archbishop Conrad of Hock-
steden (d. 1261), the founder of the cathedral. The altar of St,
Clara, with paintings by the celebrated Cologne master Wilhelm,
is also worthy of note.

3d. (Engelbertus) in which the bones of Archbishop
Engelbert von der Mark, now preserved in a. silver casket in
the treasury, reposed till 1633.

Cathedral, COLOGNE. 10. Route. 31

4th. (Chapel of the three kings or Magi). Here are pre-
served the bones of the Magi, which were brought from Con-
stantinople by the Empress Helena, afterwards taken to the
cathedral of Milan, and finally, after the destruction of Milan
in 1164, presented by the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa to
Archbishop Reinold of Cologne. The gorgeous shrine which
contains the relics was constructed towards the close of the
12th cent,, and was once richly adorned with gold, pearls,
and precious stones, the greater number of which disappeared
during the French dominion. Near this chapel repose the
remains of the Electors of the house of Bavaria, and in front
of it, under a stone without incription, is interred the heart
of Marie de Medicis (p. 34). Opposite, at the back of the
high-altar, is the tombstone of St. Engelbert.

5th. (Agnes Chapel). Contains the celebrated * Dombiid,
termed by Goethe "the axis on which the history of art on
the Lower Rhine turns," a picture in compartments, repre-
senting the Adoration of the Magi, St. Gereon and St. Ursula,
and the Annunciation. It bears the date 1410, and is pro-
bably a work of the Master Stepkan (p. 27).

6th. (Michael's Chapel). Tombstone of Archbishop Walram
of Julich (d. 1349) Carved altar-piece of the 15th cent.

7th. (Stephen's Chapel). Tombstone of the imperial
General von Hochkirchen (fell in 1703 at Landau in the Spa-
nish war of succession). Near it is the * tombstone of Arch-
bishop Frederick of Saarwerden (d. 1414), admirably decorated
with figures of saints. The chapel itself contains an altar-
piece by Ooerbeckj representing the Ascension of the Virgin.
The stained-glass windows were presented in 1857 by a so-
ciety at Bonn und Munster, formed for the purpose of fur-
thering the construction of the cathedral.

The Schatzkammer or Treasury (entrance from the
passage of the N. choir), contains a silver shrine with the
remains of St. Engelbert, valuable ecclesiastical vessels, espe-
cially one presented by Pope Pius IX. in 1848, the sword of
office worn by the Elector of Cologne at the coronation pro-
cession at Frankfurt (R. 39), priestly robes, 10 carved ivory
tablets, &c.

The visitor should by no means omit to walk round the
* inner gallery of the choir and those on the exterior of the
choir, or to ascend the now completed central tower (admission
by card, see p. 29, by the S. Portal), as thus a better idea
may be formed of the grandeur of the whole structure. The
external gallery commands a magnificent * prospect over the
sea of houses, the plain intersected by the Rhine and the
Seven Mountains in the distance.

32 Route 10, COLOGNE. Archiep. Museum.

The Archiepiscopal Museum {Erzhischofiiche Museum),
opposite to the S. side of the cathedral, containing a collection
of ecclesiastical and other objects of art of the middle ages,
occupies the site of the archiepiscopal palace of the middle ages.

In the immediate vicinity of the W. Portal, at the end of
the Unter-Fettenhennen Strasse, an old Roman inscription on
the wall of the N. W. corner house of the Domkloster (cathe-
dral convent) marks the place v^here the Pfaffenpforte, one
of the ancient town gates, formerly stood.

The remaining objects of interest in Cologne are enume-
rated in the order recommended at p. 26.

St. Cunibert (PJ. 33), on the Rhine, in the N. part of the
town, was consecrated by Archbishop Conrad in 1248, the
same year in which he laid the foundation stone of the
cathedral. It contains some fine old stained glass in the
choir, and several small pictures of saints on gold ground,
probably of the old Cologne school.

* St. Ursula (PI. 49) is said to have been erected at the
beginning of the 12th cent, by the Emperor Henry II. The
choir to the 1. contains a monument, erected in 1658, to
St. Ursula, an English princess, who, according to one of the
many legends extant, on her return from a pilgrimage to
Rome was, with her 11,000 virgin attendants, barbarously
murdered at Cologne. The bones of these virgin martyrs are
kept in cases, placed round the church. Ten old pictures of
the Apostles, to the 1. of the S. entrance, are painted on slate,
and bear the date 1224. Under the organ a Crucifixion in
stone is well executed.

The Jesuits' Church (PI. 20), erected about 1636 in the
style peculiar to this order, is overloaded with decorations.
The bells were cast out of the metal of the cannons taken
by Tilly at Magdeburg, and by him presented to the church.
The entrance hall of the Priests' Seminary, adjoining the church
on the N., contains a handsome marble monument of the
Master of the Teutonic order von Reuschenherg (d. 1603).

The Church of St. Andreas (PI. 29), with Romanesque
nave and raised Gothic choir, contains a richly-adorned modern
side-altar, where the shrine (15th cent.) with the relics of
Alhertus Magnus, who lived and died in the contiguous Do-
minican convent, is preserved. In the adjoining street '' Unter-
Sachsenhausen ", are situated two palatial edifices, one the pro-
perty of the Schaaffhausen Banking Co., the other of the Co-
logne Fire Insurance and the Hail Insurance companies.

In the Comodienstrasse on the r. is the Theatre (Pi. 52),
re-erected since its destruction by fire in 1859; on the 1. the
Courts of Justice (PI. 21), the Arsenal (PI. 54), erected in 1601 ;

St. Gereqn. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 33*

on the r. the palatial Government buildings (PI. 27). Farther
W. in the same direction, at the corner of the Apernstrasse,'
is the Roman tower ^ inlaid with stones of different colours,
which is believed to have formed one of the corners of the
Roman town. The interior is undoubtedly of Roman origin,
the exterior belongs to the middle ages, and the upper part
is modern. After traversing the Steinfeldergasse the Church of

* St. Gereon (PI. 36) is reached. This church, dedicated
to the memory of the 408 martyrs of the Theban legion, with
their captains Gereon and Gregory (afterwards the patron
saints of Cologne), who perished here in the persecution of
the Christians under Diocletian, occupies the site of an ancient
church, said to have been founded by the empress Helena..
It was formerly known by the appellation of the church ad
aureoB aanctos, from the circumstance of its being roofed with
gilded metal plates. The nave is probably as ancient as the
7th cent.; the choir belongs to the 13th, and is constructed
in the transition style from the round to the pointed, the
latter predominating.

The entrance hall contains old tombstones of crusaders.
The nave consists of a decagonal vaulted cupola, from the
sides of which project the sarcophagi of the martyrs. Upwards
of 200 of their skulls, some of them enveloped with velvet,
are arranged round the choir under gilded arabesques. Traces
of ancient frescoes have recently been discovered. (Attendant's
fee for 1—3 pers. 10 Sgr.)

About 100 yds. to the E. of the church, in the street
planted with trees, is situated the Archiepiscopal Palace (PL 12),
in front of which stands the * Mariensdule, a handsome mo-
nument erected in 1858 in commemoration of the promulgation
of the doctrine of the immaculate conception. The statues .
ar«e from drawings by Steinle.

Farther to the N., in the Klingelpiitz , is the Arresthaxis
(Pi. 7), a prison constructed in a radiating form.

The * Apostles' Church (PI. 30) in the Neumarkt, a
remarkably handsome structure with its towers, pinnacles, and
cupola, was commenced in 1200, when the Romanesque style
had attained its highest perfection.

When the plague raged in Cologne in 1357, Richmodis von Lyskirchen,
'wife of the knight Mengis von Adocht, was -attacked by the malady, and
having fallen into a deathlike svroon, was interred in the Apostles' church.
Being awakened from her trance by a thievish gravedigger in his attempts
to possess himself of her ring, she returned to the house of her husband,
who, .imagining he beheld an apparition, declared he would sooner believe
that his horses could ascend to the loft of his house than his departed spouse
letuiu in propria persona. Scarcely had the words escaped his lips, says
the legend, than horses' hoofs were heard mounting the stairs, and their
heads were speedily seen looking out of a window in the upper story of the
Babdeker's Rhine. 3

34 Houte 10. COLOGNE. HoBpital.

house. (Two horses' heads are stiil to be seen, affixed to the upper story of
the house with the tower on the N. side of the Neumarkt, where they were
placed ill cominemoratioii of the miraculous event.) The lady recovered and
lived for many years afterwards.

[Near the Neumarkt is the Diorama (p. 25); thej Roman
Tower (p. 33) is on the way from St. Gereon's to the Apos-
tles' church.]

The new Mauritius Church (PI. 44) (Mauritius Steinweg)
is an edifice in the Gothic stvle.

The Hospital (PI. 4) is a large and handsome edilice;
the patients are waited on by sisters of Charity. It may be
inspected in the afternoon; the visitor is expected on entering
his name in the book to give a donation towards the funds
of the establishment. Attendant's fee 5 Sgr.

St. Cecilia (PI. 31), erected about 1200, is contiguous
to the hospital aud serves as its chapel. The crypt, which
contains remnants of Roman masonry, deserves inspection.

St. Peter's Church (PI. 47), adjacent to the latter, was
built in 1524, and contains an altar-piece (the crucifixion of
Peter) by Rubens, brought back in 1814 from Paris, whither
it had been taken by the French. It is concealed by another
picture of little value which the sexton removes for the-
somewhat exorbitant fee of 15 Sgr. A copy of the picture
hangs over the N. side-entrance. The inspection of the old
carved altar with paintings ascribed to Lucas of Leyden costs
5 Sgr. more.

The S. entrance of St. Peter's is in the Sternengasse where
(No. 10) Rubens was born (1577) (comp. p. 41). In the same
house Marie de Medicis, widow of Henrv IV. of France, died
in exile (1642).

*St. Maria im Capitol (PL 40), so-called from its occu-
pying the site of the Roman Capitol, is said to have been
founded at the close of the 7th cent, by Plectrudis, consort
of Pepin of Heristai and mother of Charles Martel. The
present edifice was commenced in the 11th cent. The S.
(Hardenrath's) chapel contains frescoes by I^raei of Mekeneniy
the finest of which represents a group of choristers. The N.
chapel (baptistery) contains an altar-piece of 1521, ascribed
to Albert Diirer, representing the dying Mary, surrounded by
the Apostles. The old stained- glass windows and the rich
sculpturing under the organ (executed in 1523) deserve men-
tion. On the door of the N. entrance are carved wooden
reliefs of the 11th cent, and on the external wall of the
rhoir a stone effigy of Plectrudis (probably the lid of a sar-
cophagus). Adjacent to it is a small pointed archway, adorned
with stone carving, lately restored, which forms the entrance
gateway from the Kouigsstrasse.

Ourzenich, COLOGNE. W. Route, 35

Farther to the £., in the same line of streets, 4s situated
the Templars'* Lodge (Tempelhaus, PI. 51) in the Kheingasse,
No. 8. It dates from the 12th or 13th cent., and is frequently
alluded to in the annals of the city as a corporation or guild-
hall. It is now used as an Exchange, and contains collections
of the Chamber of Commerce, Navigation Society, &c. The
walls of the three apartments on the ground-floor are covered
with paintings in the taste of the middle ages, emblematical
of priesthood, knighthood, and citizenship, the three elements
of the state in those times.

The Ofirzexiich (PI. 15) (named after the citizen by whom
it was founded) erected in 1441 — 74, improved and enlarged
in 1856, is the most considerable of the non- ecclesiastical
edifices of Cologne. The new painted statues above the E.
gateway represent Agrippa and JMarsilius , respectively the
founder and defender of the town during the Roman period.
The large * Hall on the first floor was employed in the middle
ages on festive occasions, and served as a banquet- room
when the emperors visited the city. In 1857 it was en-
tirely remodelled, and contains stained-glass windows re-
presenting the arms of the once allied towns of Cologne,
Julich, Cleve, Berg, and Mark, St Peter as patron saint,.,
two imperial eagles, the arms of the city, those of the 22
different corporations &c. The two large , richly carved
chimney-pieces, with allusions to the former history of Co-
logne, are worth inspection.

The *Rat]ihaus or Town-hall (PI. 26), facing the Stadt-
hansplatz to the W. and the old market to the E., was founded
in the l3th cent., and attained its present form in 1549." The
*Por/fl/, added in 1571, is in the new Romanesque style. It
rests upon 16 marble pillars with open arches, and bears
six long Latin inscriptions recording the gratitude of the
citizens to Julius Caesar, Augustus, Agrippa, Gonstantine, Jus-
tinian , and the German Emperor Maximilian. The Reliefs
contain an allusion to an ancient tradition.

The Archbishop Engelbert (p. 27) sought the life of the Burgomaster
(jryu. Be invited his inteuded victim to a banquet and caused him to be
conducted to a room ^here a hungry lion liad been placed to devour the
obnoxious citizen. The latter, however, contrived to thrust his 1. arm down
the animal's throat, while he stabbed it with the r. hand.

The Chapel of the Rathhaus which formerly contained

the Dombild (p. 31), was, before the banishment of the Jews,

(1349), a synagogue. The Gothic tower of the Rathhaus at

present contains the Wallraf Library and Archives, open daily

from 10 to 12.

*6ross-St. Martin (PI. 38), near the Rhine, consecrated
in 1172, is a bold and elegant Romanesque fabric. The

36 Route 10. COLOGNE. Museum.

massive tower, one pinnacle of which is yet incomplete, rests
upon four arches, nearly 100 ft. in height and 40 ft. in width,
the only counterpoise of which consists of the handsome
half-rotundas. The lower part of the church was erected
more than a century later and exhibits the transition to the
pointed style. The antique font, decorated with lions' heads
and foliage, a present from Pope Leo III., is a rare specimen
of the stone carving of the 8th cent. On the upper side-
altars are placed 6 new stone statues by Hoffmann of Rome,
to the 1. St. Martin, St. Eliphius, and St. Brigitta, to the r.
the Virgin with angels. The N. aisle contains a fine Descent
from the Cross, by du Boisy and Christ before Annas, by
Hontkorst. The pulpit rests on a recumbent dragon.

The Minoritenkirclie (PI. 45) is of the 13th cent., and
is said to have been built in their leisure hours by the same
workmen who were engaged in the construction of the cathe-
dral. It contains the tombstone of the celebrated theological
disputant Duns Scotus (d. 1309), the inscription on which
records: Scotia me genuit, Anglia me suecepit, Gallia me docuit,
Colonia me tenet. The beautiful cloisters on the N, side are
in the late Gothic style. The church is now undergoing a
thorough repair, the expenses of which were borne by Herr
Richartz (d. 1861), a wealthy and public -spirited citizen of
Cologne. At his expense likewise (30,000/.) the new

* Museum (JVallraf-Richartz) (PL 22) has been constructed.
The statues at the principal portal (N. side) as well as those
on the E. side, represent characters of distinction in the
annals of the city. The building contains the late Professor
Walfraf s valuable collection of antiquities of Rome and the
middle ages, and pictures by ancient and modern masters
(adm. gratis on Sundays, holidays and Wed. afternoons, at

other times for a fee of l^/^ Sgr.)

Ground-floor. On the right the Roman Antiquities , on the left
ancient weapons and armour. The lower cloister contains several Mosaic
pavements, the upper is occupied by a collection of vases, stained-glass etc.
— In three saloons to the 1. is situated the Fermanent Exhibition of the
Cologne Art-Union. The staircase is adorned with frestcoes representing the
different epochs in the history of art at Cologne.

The Upper Story contains pictures of the Dutch, Italian and French
schools, as well as the works of several eminent modern artists. The prin-
cipal attraction of the gallery, however, consists in the collection of paint-
ings of the old Cologne school by Meister Wilhelin and his followers (12 — 84),
Meinter Stephan and his school (85—112), and painters of the Van Eyck
school (113-372).

St. Severin (PI. 48), at the S. extremity of the town,
was founded at the commencement of the 11th cent., but the
greater part of the edifice is in the Gothic style and there-
fore belongs to a later date. The tall pointed spire was
added about the close of the 15th cent.. The "Last Supper"

St. Pantaleon. COLOGNE. 10, Route. 37

%"} de Bfuyn, 2k ivixiged altar-piece to the r., is one of the
iiriest works of this master. The sacristy contains a fresco
by the Master Wilhelm (p. 27), which is unfortunately in a
bad state of preservation.

St. Pantaleon (PI. 46) is mentioned in ancient documents
as early as 670. Archbishop Bruno (d. 965), brother of Otto
the Great, is said to have employed the remnants of the bridge
of Constantine (p. 26) in building the abbey and enlarging
the church. To the r. by the High-altar is the tombstone of
the Empress Theophania (d. 999), consort of Otto II., and to
the 1. that of Count Hermann von Zutphenj abbot of the mo-
nastery, and brother of St. Irmgard, both of them erected iu
the last century. The line old Gothic sculpturing under the
organ has been lately restored. The church is one of the
most ancient buildings of Cologne of the Christian period,
and is fitted up as a garrison church.

The new Prot. Trinity Church (PI. 56) in the "basilica"
style, is situated in the Filzengraben, not far from the har-
bour, and the S3magogue (PI. 50) in the Moorish style,
with its handsome cupola, in the Glockengasse.

One of the most remarkable works of its age is the well-
preserved Town-wall, with its broad, deep fosses and fine
gate- towers. Begun at the close of the 12th cent, under
Archbishop Philipp, and completed in the 15th, it describes
a semi-circle of 3800 yds., the chord of which is formed by
the bank of the Rhine.

The wharves, from the N. extremity of the town to the

Bayenthurm, exhibit an animated and interesting scene. Near

the tower is the Sicherheitshafen, or Safety-harbour (where

vessels take refuge in winter from the dangers of the floating

ice), with its ship-building establishment, and beyond it an

extensive cotton-factory. The warehouses of the Freiha/en, or

Free harbour, were erected in 1838 in the same style as the

Gurzenich. The town may now be entered by the Miihlen-

gassenthor; following a N. direction the new Domthor is soon

reached, through which the traveller arrives at the Iron

Bridgre^ 1312 ft. in length. Part of it, 24 ft. in breadth, is

used as a railway- bridge, the remaining part, 27 ft. broad,

serves for the ordinary traffic.

The Trankgassen-Thor by the bridge, to the N., leads to

the extensive jRhine-wharf, following which and passing St.

Cunibert (p. 32), whence the steamboats to the Zoolog.

Garden and Mulheim start, the traveller crosses the entrance

•t©. the: old Stcherheitshafen^ and reaches the Victoria'Theatre

(p. 25), and farther down, the Zoological Garden (open

daily in summer from 6 a.m., in winter from 8 a.m., till

38 Route. W. DEUTZ.

sunset; admission see p. 25). There is usually a militarj-
concert here on Wed. afternoons. The grounds are well
laid out and the collection of animals meritorious. Good
refreshment-room. — In the immediate vicinity is situated the
Botanical Garden of the "Flora" company. — Carriages see
(p. 25). — The steamboats between Cologne and Miilheiai
have a station near these gardens, where a bell is rung to
apprise visitors of the approach of the boats returning to
Cologne.

At the harbour, the glacis of the town-fortifications is
entered; it is planted with trees and laid out with walks, and
affords an agreeable promenade round the town. To the 1.,
between Gereon's and the H2hren-Thor, lies the Towii.-Gardeii»
with horticultural school. Parallel with the town, and about
100 yds. from its walls, is a long series of Forts, connected
with the fortifications. Beyond the last of these lie the
grounds of the Cologne msichine manufactory, forming a sort
of suburb.

The extensive Cemetery is situated on thi* road to Aix-
la-Chapelle, but contains no monuments worthy of note.

On the r. bank of the Rhine, opposite to Cologne, lie.^
Deutz (Hotels see p. 25), the tete-de-pont of Cologne, the
Castrum Divitensium of the Romans, founded probably in the
1st century, and afterwards strengthened by Constankine. It
was undoubtedly a Roman fortress, and existed up to 1114,
was repeatedly restored and again destroyed in later ages, but
never attained any importance as a town, as a settlement here
would have been inconsistent with the privileges of the town
of Cologne. Subsequently to 1816 Deutz was fortified in
connection with Cologne by the Prussians. The buildings of
the former Benedictine abbey now serve as an extensive ar-
tillery workshop. The Cologne and Mlnden Railway Station
(p. 25) is situated near the new Cavalry Barracks.

One of the finest existing edifices in tlie Gotliic style, similar in plan
and style to the Cathedral, U the church of the Cistercian abbey of *Aitea-
berg, founded in 1255 and consecrated in 1379. This magnificent fabric,
sitaated in the Dhunthal, 12 M. N. £. front Deutz, was most judicionsiy
restored by the late king of Prussia, by whose ancestors, the Counts Adolf
and Bberhard vora Berge, the abbey was founded in 1133. Several members
of the same family are here interred. A. single traveller may avail himself
of the Lennep diligence from Cologne early in the morning as far as Stratter-
ho/, through which it again passes on its way bacic to Cologne at 3 p.m.
Altenberg is about V/^ M. distant; good halting-place at Schmitz^s inn, in
Engelrath^ near Strasserhof. Those who are unwilling to devote an entire
day to this excursion, may take the steamboat or railway to Mulheim,
and walk thence by Odenthal to Altenberg (9 M.); in the evening back
by the diligence from Strasserhof. It is less expensive for a party of
H — 4 persons to take a carriage from Deuti to Altenberg in 2 brs., fare
about 4 Thlr.

11. Prom Cologne to Crefeld and Cleve.

Comp. Map R. 4.

By Railway to Cr«feld in !'/» hr.; fares: 1 Thlr. 13 Sgr,, I Thir.
or 21 8gr.; to Clevo in \V/^ hr. ; fares: 3 Thlr. 5, a Thir. 10 or I Thlr.
17'/, Sgr. Keturu tickets for day of issue and following day only. Traiu.t
j*tart from the Central station (p. 2.')).

The district traversed by this line is flat, but possesses
^ome places to which an historical interest attaches.

Worringen, the Buruneum of the Romans , was in June,
1288, the scene of a battle fought by the troops of Cologne
and Brabant and the Duke of Berg against the Archbishop
of Cologne and the Duke of Guelders, by which the Duchy
of Limburg became annexed to that of Brabant. Horrem is
the station for I>ormag^n, the Durnomagus of the Romans,
and station of the 22nd Legion (Transrhenana). M. Delhoven
has a iine collection of Roman antiquities.

Neuss {Drei Koniye; * Rheiniacher Hof)^ at the same
time a station on the Aix-Ia-Chapelle and Dusseidorf line
(p. 11), is one of the oldest towns in Germany, founded by
the Ubii in 35 B. C, and often mentioned as a Roman fortress
by Tacitus, under the Name of Novesium, the station of the
i>th and 16th Legions. In 1474 Neuss was in vain besieged
by Charles the Bold of Burgundy during 48 weeks, and in
1586 was conquered and treated with great severity by
Alexander Farnese. It once lay on the Rhine, which is now
iVa M. distant. The handsome * Quirinuskirche ^ founded in
1209, belongs to the transition period from the Romanesque
to the Gothic. St. Quirinus, to whom the church -is dedicated,*
is believed to have been a Roman soldier who perished in
the persecution of the Christians. The grammar-school con-
tains a considerable collection of Roman antiquities.

Tbe train then proceeds by stat. Osterath to Crefeld
(p. 11). The next stat. Kempen, an ancient town with a well-
preserved church in the Romanesque style, is believed to have
been the birthplace of Thomas a Kempis (d. at ZwoUe, 1471).
The fertile district now begins to assume the Dutch character.
Geldern, the next station of importance, formerly the capital
oi the Duchy of Guelders, has belonged to the Prussian
dominions since 1713. The train here crosses the Niers, and
passes the stations of Kevelaer (much frequented by pilgrims),
fVeeze and Goch (a place of some importance in the middle ages).
The sand-hills which form the culminating point between the
Rhine and the Meuse are now approached and gradually as-
cended, and to the 1. the town of Cleve shortly comes in sight.
Cleve (*Matwald, on the S. side, * Robbers, to the W. of
the town; * Hotel Laferriere, contiguous to the palace, moderate;

40 Route 12, CLEVE.

Kaiserlicher Ho/), once the capital of the Duchy of the same
name, is a clean town, delightfully situated on the brow of a
wooded eminence, 4V2 M. to the W. of Emmerich. The
Stiftskircke, erected in 1345, contains several monuments of the
Counts and Dukes of Cleve (the finest is that of Adolf VI.,
d. 1394), and one of Margaretha von Berg (d. 1425).

On an eminence in the centre of the town rises the
Palace of the former dukes, with the lofty * Schwanentkurm
erected by Adolf I. in 1439, on the site of an ancient tower,
believed to have been built by Caesar. The Schwanenthurm,
as well as the Clever-Berg, % M. distant, commands the most
charming prospect on the Lower Rhine. To the S. extends
a range of hills on which lies the Prinzenhof, property of the
Princess of Waldeck and Pyrmont, once the seat of Prince
Moritz of Nassau, the governor of the Duchy appointed by the
Elector of Brandenburg. To the N. lies the series of hills,
known by the name of the Thiergarten, laid out with park-
like grounds, which adjoin the road to Nymegen. Diligence
from Cleve to Nymegen in 2V4 hrs. Railway in construction.

From Cleve to Hanten on the Rhine (see p. 17).

12. From Oologne to Frankfort by Giessen*

By Railway to Giessen in 5V4 hrs.; fares: 4 Thin 12%, 2 Tlilr. 28Var
or 2 Thlr. 6'/, Sgr. From Giessen to Frankfurt by express in 1 hr. 33min.,
by ordinary trains in l*/*— 2% hrs.; fares: 1 Thlr. 23, 1 Thlr. 6, or 22 Sgr,

The train starts from Deutz and traverses a flat country
at some distance from the Rhine. The first station of any
importance is Siegburg^ (* Stern), which communicates with
Bonn by diligence several times a day (9 Sgr.; omnibus 4 Sgr.).
The buildings of what was formerly a Benedictine Abbey on
the hill are now employed as a Lunatic Asylum.

After crossing the Sieg, a view of the Seven Mts. to the
r. is obtained, and the station Hennef is reached. The castle
of Allner, situated on the skirts of the wood to the 1., stands
at the entrance to the narrower part of the valley of the Sieg,
which the line now ascends. Farther on, the convent of
Bodingen is seen to the 1., surrounded by vineyards, and on
the opposite side the village and ruined castle of Blankenherg.
Beyond stat. Eitorf the convent of Merten is seen on an emi-
nence to the r., and here the wooded hills which enclose the
valley increase in height. Schladem, with the ruined castle
of Windeck, is one of the finest points on the line. Beyond
the station of Wissen, on the 1. bank of the Sieg, stands the
handsome castle of Schonstein, property of the Prince of Hatz-
feld-Wildenburg.

BETZDORF. 12, Route. 41

At Betzdorf the line leaves the valley of the Sleg and
enters that of the Heller,

The first portion of the Hue to Siegen was opened in Jan. 1861; stations:
Kirchen^ Niederachelden, then

Siegen (*Goldener Lowe; near the stat. a restaurant, beer) (7100 inhab.),
an ancient town with two castles of the Princes of Nassau - Siegen , who
became extinct in 1743. The lower castle contains a monument to the cele-
brated Prince Maurice of Orange (d. 1625). Siegen, as has lately been dis-
covered, was the birthplace of Rubens. The town is the central point of
the iron-traffic of this district.

The Railway from Siegen to Hagen {Ruhr-Sieg Hue) (in 3% hrs. ;
fares: 2 Thlr. 25, 2 Thlr. 4, 1 Thlr. 13 Sgr.) continues to follow the course
of the Sieg from Betzdorf, and beyond Creuzthal enters the valley of the
Hundem^ from which it emerges at Altenhundem , and proceeds in the
valley of the Lenne to Altena (Queimann). The old castle in the vicinity of
the last-named place was the family residence of the Counts von der Mark,
and commands a fine view. At Hagen (Deutsches Haus; Hotel Liineu-
schloss) is the junction of this line with the railway to Elberfeld and
Diisseldorf; near it is situated the aucieut and Interesting ruin of Hohen-
Syburg (p. 22).

Beyond Burbach the Giessen line enters the Duchy of
Nassau and ascends the valley of the DUl to Wetzlar^ virhere
it unites with the Lahn Railway.

Wetzlax {* Herzogliehes Haus), formerly a free imperial
town, is picturesquely situated on the Lahriy and commanded
by the ruined castle of * Kalsmunt, which together with the
*Metzelmrg are the finest points in the environs. The most
ancient (N. W.) part of the * Cathedral, the so-called Heiden-
thurm, was erected in the Hth cent.; the remainder dates
from the 14th — 16th. Here Goethe resided for some months
in 1372, and Wetzlar and its environs were the scene of the
events which suggested his "Sorrows of Werther".

The line continues to ascend the valley of the Lahn, and
after crossing the frontier of Hessen- Darmstadt near Duten-
ho/en, unites with the Main-Weser line at Giessen.

The valleys of the Sieg, Heller, Dill and Lahn have for centuries
been noted for their richness iu iron ; in some places lead, copper and silver
mines are also worked.

Those interested In agriculture should here observe the manner in which
the hills are frequently cultivated. The underwood is cleared every 16—20
years, and the soil employed as arable laud during a period of 3 years.

Before Giessen is reached the ruins of Gleiherg and Felz-
berg are seen on the 1.

Gtiessen (Einkorn; Rappe; Prinz Carl; good beer and fine
view at the Felsenkeller) , situated on the Lahn, is principally
of modern origin, and the seat of a university, founded in
1607 (400 students).

About 3 M. to the 1. of stat. Butzbach rise the considerable
ruins of the castle of Munzenberg, destroyed in the thirty
years' war. The higher (145 ft.) of its two towers commands
an extensive view.

42 Route 13, NAUHEIM.

Nauheim {^ Hotel de r Europe, R. and B. 1 fl. 18 kr.; Cur-
haus; Hotel Henkel, Hotel de Paris), a watering-place with
a saline spring, situated on the N. E. slopes of the Tauniis
Mts., is a handsome looking place when viewed from the
station, especially when the warm fountain plays, the milky
and foaming mineral water of which rises to the height of
56 ft. The "green table", lately introduced, forms one of the
principal attractions of the place, which is visited by about
3000 patients annually The Johanniaberg, a wooded eminence,
1 M. from the Cursaal, surmounted by the tower of an ancient
monastery, commands an extensive prospect.

Friedberg^ {Hotel Trapp ; Simon), once a free Imperial town,
is surrounded by walls of considerable extent, and possesses
two handsome Gothic churches. On the N. side stands a
line, well-preserved watch-tower, near which is situated the
beautiful Palace garden.

As the train approaches Frankfurt, the Taunus Mts. are
^een on the r. Bonames is the station for the baths of Homburg.

Frankfart, see R. 39.

13. The Rhine from Cologne to Bonn.

Cornp. Map R. 4.

By Railway, express in 40 miii., ordinary in 1 hr.; fares: 20, 15 and
10 Sgr. — By steamboat in 2Vo hrs. (down in 1'/, hr.), fares: 8 or 5 8gr.
<^onveyances see p. 25.

N. B. In the followins: routes (13 — 24) r. and I, are used to indicate the
position of towns, vitlagen etc. with regard to the steamboat -passenger as-
cending the river.

As the majestic city of Cologne, with its cathedral, nu-
merous towers and lofty railway-bridge gradually disappears,
the castle of Bensberg comes in sight, situated on an
eminence 9 M. to the 1. It was erected bv the Count Palatine
John William, and is now employed as a Prussian military
school. At the foot of the hill on which the castle stands,
is a monument erected by the present emperor of Austria in
1854, to the memory of about 2000 Austrian soldiers who
fell at the battle of Jemappes in 1794. About ^/^ M. to the
E. rises the Erdenburg, an eminence surmounted by the
remnants of an old wall, believed to be of ancient Germanic
origin. A few miles farther on is (1.) Mondorf, at the old
influx of the Sieg. 0pp. to the island of Graupenwerth, at
the mouth of the Sieg, lies the village of Grau Hheindorf.

On the hillside, about 9 M. from the confluence of the
8ieg and Rhine, are seen the buildings of the ancient Bene-
dictine Abbey of Siegburg, now employed as a lunatic-asylum.
Siegburg is a stat. on the Cologne and Giessen railway:
diligence several times a day from Bonn in 174 hr. (9 Sgr.).

BONN. H. Route. 43

To the I. the church of Schwarz-Rheindorf is seen
peeping from among the trees; It is a curious structure, con-
Histing of two churches, one above the other, consecrated in
1511 by Archbishop Arnold of Wied. It shows no trace of
the pointed-arch style, and possesses a particular value in the
history of architecture. The arcade which almost entirely
.surrounds the church, with its numerous pillars whose bases
and capitals exhibit the most various styles of decoratioa, is
well worth the inspection of architects and lovers of art.
The lower church contains interesting frescoes of the 12th
cent. To the r. the Jesuitenhof, then the Wichelshof. As the
steamboat approaches Bonn, the charms of the Rhineland
gradually begin to present themselves to the view.

14. Bonn.

HotelSt *Stiir, iu the market-place, well conducted, excellent table
d'hdte. * Royal Hotel, R. 20, L. 6, A 6 Sgr. ; Bellevuc, outside of the
OobUaz gate, with gardens on the bank of the Rhine, R. 16 — ^. L. 5, B. 8,
A. 6 Sgr. ; *Hutel KIcy, at the Coblenz gate, with garden extending to
the river, R. 15, L. 4, B. 8, D. 15 Sgr.; it is at the same time a good
restaurant and boarding house, pension iVi Thir. per diem and upwards. —
't'Rheineok, opp. the steamboat pier, R. 12, B. 7. D. 15, A. 5 Sgr. Rhei -
iiischer Hof, Schwan, good second-class house. Hotel (rami: Chateau
(la Rhin.

BestAurants. Olouth, in the Sandkaul; *Nettekovcn, iu the Neu-
gasse, Bavarian beer. *Vo8S and *Perrin. both in the Wenzelgasse.

1 Oafds. Schweizer Caffehaus next to the Jesuits' church; Lau-
binger, confectioner in the market-place, opp. to the Star Hotel.

Newspapers and restaurant in the Xexe- und Erholuaffs - Gesellaohaft ,
opp. to the University; the Academic Reading-room contains upwards of
200 newspapers and periodicals; visitors must be introduced by a member.

Bath. Warm and Shower baths at Rass's, 8 Sgr. Cold river- baths in
the Rhine, 3 Sgr. On the r. bank. Swimming-baths 5 Sgr.; after 5 p. m.
boats cross every half-hour at the upper end of the town.

Oarriages. For a drive in the town, 1— 2pers. 5, each additional person
2V. Sgr., box 1 Sgr.; % hr. 7'/^— 10 Sgr.

Bailway station near the Poppelsrtorf avenue (p. 47).

Telegraph OfAce Fiirstenstrasse 38.

English Ghoroh Sarvioe performed by a resident chaplain in the Uni-
versity church.

Visitors whose time is limited should inspect the exterior of the Miinster
church (p. 46), the monument of Beethoven (p. 46), the Collection of Rhenish
and Westphalian antiquities (p. 46); the frescoes in the Aula (p. 45), the
Scientific Museum in the palace at Poppelsdorf (p. 46), the view from th«
Kreuzberg (p. 47), and the "alte Zoll" (p. 46).

The lofty tower of the Miinster church, the handsome new
residences on the Rhine above the town, the long extended
buildings of the University, peeping from among the trees, and
the grounds of the "«/#« ZoW* give a cheerful and pleasing;
aspect to the town, when viewed from the steamboat.

Bonn. {Bonna, or the Castra Bonnensia) frequently mentioned
by Tacitus (Hist. IV, 20, 25, 62, 70, 77. V. 22), was one of

44 Route 14. BONN. History.

the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine, prohably founded by
Drasus, and the head-quarters of the 1st, 5th, 15th, 2l8t, and
and 22nd Legions, and of the Austrian cohort. It was ce-
lebrated for its Temple of Mars and the Ara Ubiorum, which
is believed by some to have stood here {Tacit. Ann. /, 39, 57.).
One of the two bridges, which Floras says that Drusus con-
structed across the Rhine, was at Bonn, the other at Mayence.
The former stood at the end of the Steinweg or Roman
Street at the Wichehkof, on the N. side of the town, as was
proved by excavations made in 1818. In the year 70 A.D.
Claudius Civilis, the leader of the Batavi, who had taken up
arms against the Romans, forced his way as far as Bonn,
and gained a victory, Bonnense proilium, as Tacitus records
(Hist. IV, 20.).

Under Constantine the Great, whose mother Helena is
said to have founded the Munster, Bonn seems to have been
a flourishing place. About the middle of the 4th cent, it was
destroyed by the Alemanni. The Emperor Julian shortly after-
wards caused the walls to be rebuilt, but the town did not
regain its former importance till 1268, when the Archbishop
Engelberg of Falkenburg transferred his residence and the
seat of his temporal government thither. An ancient tomb-
stone, as well as the oldest seal belonging to the town, bears
the name of Verona, which was the appellation given to that
part of the town occupied by the citizens, whilst the name of
Bonna was applied to the military portion. In later ages the
name of Verona does not again occur. The German kings,
Frederick of Austria (1314), and Charles IV. (1346) were
crowned in the Munster at Bonn.

The Protestant tendencies of the Archbishops of Cologne,
Hermann of Wied and Gebhard of Waldburg in the 16th cent.,
principally manifested by the latter in his marriage with the
nun Agnes of Mansfeld, for which sacrilegious act he was
declared apostate and banished from his Electorate, brought
the town of Bonn into great trouble; for Gebhard, being as
much soldier as priest, collected an army and made war
against the prelate who had been elected in his stead; but
he was compelled to retire to the castle of Godesherg , a
stronghold belonging to the father of Agnes, which was
besieged and blown up, thus terminating his turbulent career.
In the war of liberation of the Netherlands, in the 30 years'
war, and especially in the Spanish war of succession, Bonn
suffered repeatedly from sieges. The Electors of the house
of Bavaria were always at this period in alliance with France
against the house of Austria. The siege of 1689 was conducted
by the Elector Frederick III. of Brandenburg (King Fred. I;)

Umvei'sify. BONN. 14. Route. 45

at the head of the Imperial and allied troops. Amongst other
celebrated generals, Alexander of Parma, Montecuculi, Marl-
borough, Opdam, and Coehorn took part about the same
time in the operations against the town, the fortifications of
which were finally dismantled in 1717, in accordance with the
peace of Baden.

Under the magnificent sway of the Electors of the 18th
century Bonn rose to great opulence, and one of them, Max
Frederick of Konigseck, founded an Academy in 1777, which
three years later was raised to a University by his successor.
It only subsisted however till 1794, when the town fell into
the hands of the French.

During the French dominion Bonn suffered much, and its
population decreased from 9500 to 7500; the number of
inhab. is now 19,425 (3000 Prot., 500 Jews, 800 Students,
900 Soldiers). The present University was founded by the
king of Prussia in 1818. Whole streets of handsome houses
have since then sprung up, especially on the S. side of the
town; the more ancient portion consists of a few narrow
streets on the N. side which, however, present no objects
of interest.

The lectures, with the exception of those on natural science
and agriculture, are delivered in the Schloss (PI. 27), which
the Elector Clemens August erected in 1730 as a residence.
The buildings were much injured by the French, but have
been completely restored by the Prussian government. They
occupy considerably more than half of the S. side of the
town (1400 ft. in length), and present a very imposing ap-
pearance. They are terminated on the E. side by the Coblenz
gate. Besides the lecture-rooms they contain a well-arranged
library of 200,000 vols., adorned with a large collection of
busts, among which are those of Niebuhr, Schlegel, Welcker,
and Arndt; a valuable Numismatic collection (4000 Greek and
Koman coins); the Museum of Antiquities (see p. 46); the
Physical cabinet-^ an admirable Clinical institution^ and the
Aula or Hall, containing frescoes emblematical of the four
faculties, theology, jurisprudence, medicine, and philosophy,
painted by Cornelius and his pupils, Hermann, Forster, and
Gotzenberger in 1824—35. Admission to the Aula on application
to the door-keeper, who lives to the 1. under the university-
halls (fee 5 Sgr.). The academical Museum of Art, containing
many valuable casts, statues, &c., has lately been transferred
to the academical riding-school. The library and museum of
art are always accessible (attendant's fee 10 Sgr. for 1 pers.,
20 Sgr. for a party). What was formerly the courtchapel of
the Electoral palace is now converted into a Protestant place

46 Route 14. BONN. MtiBeum.

of worship. Divine service, according to the rites of the Church
of England, is performed on Sundays by a resident chaplain.
The Museum of Antiquities {Museum vaterldndischer
Alterthumer) is an extensive and valuable collection of monu-
ments and other objects belonging to the Roman period, found
in the Rhenish province and Westphalia, and greatly enriched
by the excavations at the Wichelshof already mentioned
(p. 44). One of the most interesting objects is a Roman
altar, dedicated to Victory, 6 ft. in height, and hewn out
of shell -limestone. It bears the inscription ^^ Dece victories
sacrum", and is decorated with high-reliefs; it is believed by
many to be identical with the Ara Ubiorum, mentioned by
Tacitus. The numerous inscriptions on the various mo-
numents in the collection embrace almost the entire field of
Roman mythology, and some of them contain allusions to the
Gallic and even to the ancient German religious rites. Of
tombstone -inscriptions one of great historical importance i»
that of Marcus Calius, in which the battle of the Teutobnrg
Wood {bellvm Variamtm) is mentioned; a Greek gravestone,
found at Bonn, is also very remarkable. The entrance hall
contains a number of ancient and other capitals.

The grounds at the E. side of the Coblenz gate, termin-
ating in an old bastion, known by the name of the *Alte
ZoU, deserve a visit for the sake of the fine prospect they
afford of the Rhine, Seven Mountains, &c.

The finest of the churches is the *Miln8ter (Fl. 1), built
in the transition style. It was formerly an archdeanery of
St. Cassius and St. Florentius, and, like many of the Rhenish
churches, traces its foundation back to the time of Constantine
the Great, having been, as we are told by an ancient tra-
dition, founded by St. Helena, the pious mother of the em-
peror. The choir, with its towers, and the crypt, which a
glass door separates from the choir, as well as the cloisters
with their tastefully decorated pillars, date from the year
1157, and the remainder of the edifice from 1270. The in-
terior only contains two Basreliefs worth inspection, the Nati-
vity and Baptism of Christ on the altars to the r. Not far
from the chief portal is the Sarcophagus of the archbishop
Engelbert von Falkenburg (d. 1275). The ancient chapter-
house adjoining the church is now converted into a residence
for the clergyman.

The other churches offer few attractions to detain the tra-
veller. The Minoritenkirche contains an altar-piece by Spiel-
berg, representing the baptism of the Franconian king Clovis
by St. Remigius, and possesses a fine organ.

The bronze * Statue of Beethoven (PI. 19), in the Man-

Popptkdorf, BONN. H, Houte. 47

sterplatz, was executed by Hahnel, an artist of Dresden. The
house where the celebrated composer was born is in th«»
Bonngasse.

The fountain -pillar in the market-place was erected in
1777 by the townspeople in honour of the Elector Max Fr<'-
derick, to whom the town was indebted for its university,
and for many acts of kindness and generosity.

A gate on the S. E. side of the Munsterplatz leads into
the Ho/ffarten and the Poppelsdorfer Allee, the principal
promenade of the town, which consists of a quadruple row
of beautiful horse- chesnuts, ^^ M. in length. To the r. of
the avenue is the Railway Station, and beyond it to the 1.
the handsome new Observatory with its tower and six
smaller turrets.

At the extremity of the avenue is situated the Poppels-
dorfer Schloss, fonnerly a country residence of the Electors,
presented to the university by Fred. William III. It contains
the Natural history collection^ consisting of upwards of 150,000
specimens, among which the minerals and fossils are parti-
cularly worthy of inspection, as they serve to illustrate the
geology of the Rhine and the volcanic formation of the Seven
Mountains (R. 16) and Eifel (R. 33). The valuable Zoological
cabinet, in the rotunda, is also well arranged. The ^*Grotten~
saal", or Grotto-hall, fitted up in the time of the Electors,
contains numerous models in explanation of mining operations,
of the Rhine, the Seven Mountains, &c., which may be
purchased. The custodian's lodge is on the 1. hand side of
the entrance (fee 1^2 ^g^-» ^^^ ^ party 15 — 20 Sgr.). The
liotanical Garden at the Schloss (open to the public on
Tuesdays and Fridays, at other times fee as above) is of
considerable extent and well-kept; the large hot- houses de-
serve inspection. Opposite to it are the buildings of the
Agricultural Academy, with lecture-rooms, collections, and the
residence of the director.

Above the village of Poppelsdorf, y^ M. from the Schloss,
rises the *Elreuzberg (400 ft.), surmounted by a white church
which forms a conspicuous object in the landscape. It be-
longed to a monastery erected here by the Elector Ferdinand
of Bavaria (d. 1650), which no longer exists, and contains
the so-called Holy Steps, of Italian marble (in the chapel behind
the altar) constructed by the Elector Clemens August (d. 1761).
These steps, 28 in number, must only be ascended on the
knees, and are a duplicate of the sancta scala at the Lateran
at Rome, saperstitiously believed to be the identical steps of
the hall of the Praetoriuro at Jerusalem ascended by the
Saviour when he appeared before Pilate. A vault under the

48 Route 15, KONIGSWINTER.

church presents a very ghastly spectacle. Here are preserved
the bodies of 25 monks, robed in the cassocks in which
they lived. They were the Servite monks belonging to the
monastery, whose corpses the peculiar dryness of the soil has
preserved from decay. The tower commands a beautiful and
extensive view.

On returning from the Kreuzberg the road to the 1., about
half-way along the Foppelsdorf avenue, leads to the * Ceme-
tery, situated near the Sternenthor. (If the principal E. gate
be closed, the visitor may gain admittance by a small gate
to the r.)

Tombstones. By the wall on the r. Monument to NUbuhr (d. 1831),
erected by the late king Fred. William IV. to his "teacher and friend".
Farther along the same walk, on the r., the monaments of Ernst von Schiller^
the son, and of Charlotte von Lenge/eld, the widow of the poet. The
*Chapel in the middle of the cemetery is a beautiful little structure in the
late Romanesque style, built about the year 1300, and transferred in 1847
from Ramersdorf (s. below) to its present site.

16. The Rhine from Bonn to Remagen.

By railway in 40 min. — By steamboat in IV4 hr. (down in 1 hr.) ;
piers at Bonn, Konigswinter and Rolandseck; small-boat stations at Ober-
cassel, Plittersdorf (Godesberg) and Unkel. The steamboat is, on account
of the beauty of the scenery, far preferable to the railway.

Shortly after the steamboat has quitted Bonn, the beauty
of the scenery rapidly increases, and the imposing group of
the Seven Mountains is approached. 1. Rameradorfy with woods
in the background, was formerly a lodge of the knights of
the Teutonic order. The original building having been burned
down with the exception of the chapel, the latter, which -was
unsuitable for the new structure, was taken down and sub-
sequently re-erected in the cemetery at Bonn.

1. Oberca43sel {*Zur Wolfshurg). On the Rabenlei in the
vicinity, a basalt quarry yields an excellent paving stone, the
so-called table-basalt.

r. Plittersdorf, stat. for Godesberg, situated 1 M. to the S.W.

1. NiederdoUendorf, on the bank of the river; Ober-
dollendorf, y, M. inland, at the entrance of the valley of
Heisterbach (p. 201).

To the r. rises the handsome castle of Godesberg, sitaated
on an eminence, 1 ^/^ M. from the Rhine.

r. Rtbigsdorf; the country residence with the tower
belongs to M. Camphausen, Prussian minister in 1848.

1. KOnigswinter (146 ft.) i^* European Hotel ^ * Berlin Hotel;
opp. to the pier, of the first cl., Cologne prices; * Hotel Rieffel^
unpretending, near the N. end of the principal street, R. and
B. 16, D. 12Sgr.; * Dusseldorfer Hof, Pension, 1% Thlr. per

DRACHENFELS. 15. Route. 49

diem , at *R. Schmitz's, opp. to the floating baths ; or at Bonnes
opp. the post-office, similar charges) , is a small modern town,
clean and well-to-do, inhabited principally by stone-cutters, and
a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Bonn and Cologne.
The railway stat. Mehlem (p. 51) is on the opposite bank, about
Yj M. from the river. Excursions among the Seven Mountains

see R. 16. Omnibus to Honnef 5 Sgr.

Porterage. Travelling-bag from the steamboat into the town 2'/>, to
Houuef (p. 56) 5 6gr., trunk into the town 2% , to Honuef 6 Sgr. uuide
to the Dracherifels to carry small packages TVs, ^^ Heisterbach or Petersberg 8,
to the Oelberg, Lowenburg or other hills 12*/, ; for half a day 10, for a whole
day 20 Sgr. The guides are forbidden by the police to demand fees or re-
freshment-money in addition to the above charges.

Donkeys. (Stand on the road to the Drachenfels, '/s M. to the E. of the
steamboat pier). Drachenfels or Wolkenburg 10, Drachenfels and Wolken-
burg 15, Heisterbach 15, Petersberg 15, Lowenburg 20, Oelberg 20, Oelberg
and Heisterbach 25 Sgr., for a whole day 1 Thlr. 5 Sgr. If the traveller
remain 1 — 2 hrs. at any of the above places, 5 Sgr. must be paid in addition
to the above .charges tVfr the ride back, for every additional hour 2VaSgr.
If the donkey be brought to the door of the traveller's hotel, 2'/, Sgr. extra
is charged. The guides and donkey-boys are strictly prohibited from de-
manding any additional fee.

1. The castle of I>raclienfel8 (dragon's rock), situated
855 ft. above the level of the Rhine, was newly erected by
Arnold, Archbishop of Cologne at the commencement of the
12th cent., and was held as a fief from him bv the counts
of the castle. Henry, Count of Drachenfels (d. 1348), made
an agreement with the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne to
supply them with the stone of which the cathedral is constructed;
the quarry still bears the name of Dombruch, or Cathedral
quarry. The wine yielded by the vineyards on its slopes is
known by the appellation of Lh'achenblut, or Dragon's blood.
In the 30 Years* war the half-ruined castle was occupied by
the Swedes, but was taken from them by the Duke Ferdinand
of Bavaria, Elector of Cologne, who completed its destruction
to avoid the necessity of placing a garrison in it.

The cavern among the vineyards, which is visible from
the Rhine about half-way up the hill on the side facing the
river, is said once to have housed the dragon, slain by Sieg-
fried, the hero from the Low Countries, who, having bathed
himself in its blood, became invulnerable.

The ascent of the Drachenfels is best accomplished from
Konigswinter, and occupies about 50 min. The road (guide
quite unnecessary) leads between the two hotels straight to
the foot of the hill (7 min.), where, at the donkey-station,
it turns off at a right angle, and is, at the commence-
ment, somewhat steep. About half-way up a booth is reached,
where minerals found in the vicinity may be purchased.
A little farther on, the path divides. They both lead to the
top; that to the r. round the rock with view of the Rhine,
Baedeker's Rhine. 4

50 Route 15. DRACHENFELS. From Bonn

the old path to the 1. through wood. The •inn at the
summit has sleeping accommodation for about 20 persons at
20 Sgr. each; B. l%SgT.\ hoard and lodging at lYjThlr.
per diem.

The obelisk near the top was erected in 1857 to replace
an old monument to Prussian soldiers who fell during the
passage of the Rhine in 1814, and records the gratitude of
the nation for the 42 years of peace which has since then
been vouchsafed to them.

The summit commands one of the noblest prospects on
the Rhine; to the E. are seen several of the seven peaks, to
the S.E. the basaltic heights at the back of Honnef, among
others the Minderberg (p. 63) and the Hemmerich (p. 53),
which gradually slope to the plain of the Rhine. Immediately
beneath, on the r. bank, lie the villages of Rhondorf, Honnef,
Rheinbreitbach , Unkel, and Erpel; on the 1. bank Remagen
and the Gothic church on the Apollinarisberg , and in the
background the heights of the Eifel with the ruins of Olbriick
and Tomberg; in the vicinity are Oberwinter, the islands of
Grafenwerth and Nonnenwerth, the arched ruin of Eolandseck,
and near it the farmhouse of Roderberg. Farther to the r. the
Kreuzberg, Bonn, and even Cologne are visible.

" The castled craj; of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and vrindiug Rhine,
Whose breast of waters broadly swells
Between the banks which bear the vine;
And hills all rich with blo&ioin'd trees,
And fields which promise corn and wine,
And scatter'd cities crowning these,
Whose far white walls along thein shine,
Have strew'd a scene which I should see
With double joy wert thou with me.

*'And peasant girls with deep blue eyes,
And hands which offer early flowers,
Walk smiling o'er this paradise;
Above, the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray,
And many a rock which steeply lowers,
And noble arch in proud decay,
Look o'er this vale of vintage bowers;
But one thing want these banks of Rhine —
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine!

*'The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground,
And all its thousand turns disclose
8ome fresher beauty varying round:
The haughtiest breast its wish might bound,
Through life to dwell delighted here;
Nor could on earth a spot be found
To nature and to me so dear,
Could thy dear eyes in following mine
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine!"

Bybon.

to Remagen, ROLANDSECK. i5. Route. 51

r. Mehlem {Stern; Krone; Goldenes Schiff, on the Rhine
with garden , pension 1 Thlr.) was the birthplace of the
celebrated artist of the Cologne school , John of Mehlem.
Railway stat. and flying bridge to Konigswinter (see p. 48).

r. Bolandseck (steamboat and railway stat. * Hotel Ro-
iandseck; * Roland's Hotel, also a hydropathic establishment;
* Hotel Billau, near the steamboat pier; * Railwoy-staiion re-
utaurant, charges all according to a fixed tariff; magnificent
view from the terrace. On the hill rises the solitary arch of
the ruin of Rolandseck, %M. from the station; the path ascends
by the Hotel Roland (donkey 10 Sgr.). The *view from this
basaltic rock, 340 ft. above the Rhine, is less extensive than
that from the Drachenfels , but is still more picturesque,
as the Drachenfels itself, the Wolkenburg, and other wooded
heights of the Seven Mountains form the foreground of the land-
scape. In the distance, to the S., the castle of Olbriick is
visible.

The castle is believed to have been built by the kuight Roland, peer of
France and paladin of Charlemagne, ivho fell in the battle of Rouceval. He
is called by Egiuhard (the secretary of Charlemagne) the guardian of the
north coast, and his dominions are described as having extended to that part
of the Rhine -where the mountains begin. The castle is mentioned in a do-
cument of 104C — 1045 as Rulcheseck. In the time of the Archbishop Frederick
it was already a ruin, but was partly restored by him in 1120 to defend his
dominions against Henry IV. The fortress stood till the close of the 15th
cent., when, in the contests betwreen the deposed Archbishop Ruprecht of
the Palatinate assisted b||r Charles the Bold of fiurgundy, and the Emperor
Frederick III., it fell entirely to decay. A beautiful legend is connected with
th castle and convent, which probably suggested Schiller's " Ritter Toggen-
burg". It may be thus briefly narrated:

The brave knight Roland, whilst scouring the Rhine in search of ad-
venture, found himself the guest of Count Heribert, the lord of the Seven
Mountains, at his castle of Drachenburg. According to the custom of the
times, the daughter of the host, the peerless Hildegunde, welcomed him with
the offering of bread , -wine and fish. Her beauty rivetted the gaze of the
ardent young kuight , and Hildegunde and Roland were shorly affianced
lovers; but, as the course of true love never did run smooth, an interruption
.soon came to their happiness. Roland was summoned by Charlemagne to
the crusade. Time sped on, and anxiously did Hildegunde await the return
of her betrothed; but instead of his arrival sad rumours came. The brave
Koland was said to have fallen by the hands of the Infidels, and the world
no longer possessing an^ charm for the inconsolable Hildegunde, she took
refuge in the '^Kloster" in the adjacent island of Nonnenwerth. The rumours,
however, of the death of her betrothed were unfounded. Though desperately
wounded, he recovered and hastened to the halls of Drachenburg to claim his
bride, but instead of being welcomed back by that fondly remembered smile,
he found that his love was for ever lost to him. In despair he built the
castle, of which one crumbling arch alone remains, and there in solitude he
lived, catching an occasional glimpse of a fair form passing to and fro to
her devotions in the little chapel of the Kloster. At length he missed her,
and soon the tolling of the bell and a mournful procession conveyed to him
the heart-rending intelligence that his beloved Hildegunde was now indeed
removed from him for ever. From that moment Roland never spoke again;
for a short time he dragged on his wretched existence, but his heart was
broken, and one morning his sole attendant found him rigid and lifeless, his
glassy eye still turned towards the convent-chapel.

52 Route 15. OBERWINTER.

The new tower, Vi M. to the W. of the ruin, a£fords a
more extended prospect, comprising Godesberg, the lower hills
of the Seven Mts., and the plain between Bonn and Cologne,
which are not visible from Rolandseck. The key of the tower
may be procured from the proprietor, Herr vom Rath, who
lives opposite to Roland's Hotel. About y, M. from the tower
is situated the Roderberg, a crater, V4 M. in diameter and
60 ft. in depth. On the rounded margin of this crater the
pumice-stone is everywhere visible; the bottom is now con-
verted into arable land, belonging to the farm-house of jBrt/cA-
hof, which lies in the middle. The building on the island
of Nonnenwerth, or Rolandswerth , was once a nunnery, the
date of whose foundation reaches back to the ages of tra-
dition. It is first mentioned in a document of the 12th cent.
The old building was burned down in 1673, since which date
the present was erected. In 1802 the nunnery was suppressed
by Napoleon, and would have suflfered the fate of the other
religious establishments which fell into his hands but for the
interposition of Josephine, who procured permission for the
nuns to retain possession of their loved island, though no
addition to the sisterhood was allowed. The building has since
gone through many vicissitudes and passed into various hands ;
it is now an educational estab., conducted by Franciscan nuns.

On the wide plain to the 1. lie the villages of Rhondorf,
Honnefj Rheinbreitbach, &nd Sckeuern.

r. Oberwinter {Fassbender) once belonged to the Duchy
of Jiilich. The retrospective view from this point is one of
the finest on the Rhine. Rolandseck and the Drachenfels with
its ruined castle, the rugged cliffs of the Wolkenburg and
the entire range (upwards of 30) of the peaks of the Seven
Mountains, at the r. extremity of which is the flattened
summit of the Lowenburg surmounted by a ruin (the isolated
sharp peak still farther to the r. is the Hemmerich), form a
mountain chain of incomparable beauty, whilst the lovely is-
land of Nonnenwerth and the grand river itself constitute the
foreground of the picture.

In 1846 a considerable landslip took place on the bank
opp. to Unkel. One half of a hill (the Birgeler Kopf) moved
down towards the Rhine; the barren, rugged walls of the
other portion show distinctly where the slip took place, and
the otherwise regular strata of basalt have been dislodged
from their original position.

1. TTnkel {Clasen; steamboat stat.), a handsome village,
between which and Remagen the Rhine describes a wide curve;
both banks are studded with handsome country residences.
Below the Apollinarisberg to the r. a railway is seen emerging

SEVEN MOUNTAINS. 16. Route. 53

from the hills, which conveys the basalt from the quarries to
the river.

r. Remagen and the ApoUinarisberg see R. 18.

16. The Seven Mountains (Siebengebirge).

One day suffices to visit the most remarkable and beautiful points iu
this district, unless the tourist travel for geological purposes. Konigswinter
is assumed as the starting point; to Heisterbach 3 M., to the Great Oelberg
3V4 M., to the Drachenfels (p. 49) Zy^ M., thence to Konigswinter I'/^M.,
altogether 12 M. Charges for guides and donkeys see p. 49. Guide not
absolutely necessary if the map and the following directions be consulted.

The district of the Seven Mountains extends E. from the
Rhine little more than 3 M., and is from N. to S. about 9 M.
in length, Konigswinter being the central point of the W. side.
It consists of a group of peaks, cones and long extended
ridges of rounded forms, and is covered partly with high-
wood, partly with luxuriant herbage. They are all the result
of volcanic agency and have been upheaved through the

grauwacke rocks.

*^Is consequence of a powerful but local force in the interior of our
planet, elastic gases either force up dome-shaped and unopened masses of
trachyte mixed -with felspar and dolerite (Puy de Dome, Seven Mountains)
through the earth's crust, or the raised strata are so broken through and
inclined outwards that on the opp. inner sides a steep wall of rocks is formed."

Humboldt.

The Seven Mountains consist partly of trachyte {Drachen^
fels 1001 ft., Wolkenburg 1009 ft., Lohrberg 1355 ft.), partly of
basalt, a more recent formation than trachyte {Oelberg 1429 ft.,
Lowenburg, consists of dolerite, 1413 ft,; Nonnenstromberg, a
ridge 300 yds. in length, 1036 ft. ; Petersberg 1027 ft.). These
seven peaks, from which the mountains derive their name, are
seen simultaneously only in the neighbourhood of Cologne ; as
Bonn is approached the Lowenburg is hidden by the Nonnen-
stromberg. Besides these seven summits there are also many
others, such as the sugar-loaf shaped Hemmerich (1114 ft.),
consisting of trachyte, which overtops the lower mountains of
the S. side, the Rosenau (999 ft.) and the Stenzelberg (886 ft.),
which adjoins the Nonnenstromberg on the N. The surface
of the Rhine at Konigswinter is 146 ft. above the level of the
sea, so that the different heights of the mountain tops above
the Rhine may easily be calculated. The view from the
Drachenfels is the most picturesque, that from the Oel-
berg the most extensive (comprising even the Taunus).
For the geologist a tour through this district presents many
objects of interest (see above), for the botanist fewer. The
former should not omit to provide himself with the admirable
geological map of this district by H. v. Dechen (proportion
1 : 25,000).

54 Route 16. £; PETERSBERG. The Seven

A much frequented path leads from Konigswinter half-way
up the Feteraberg^ (1027 ft.) (the chapel on the summit com-
mands a fine view; near it a * restaurant), then round the
W. and N. slopes of the hill, chiefly through wood, to
^Heisterbach, once a Cistercian Abbey, beautifully situated
in a mountain ravine. The gate through which the visitor
enters the avenue of fruit-trees still bears the arms of the
abbey, a Heister (young oak) and a Bach (brook); at the side
stand St. Benedictine and St. Bernhard (comp. R. 34) as
guardians. Of the Romanesque church only the external part
of the high-choir, with its slender and elegant basaltic pillars,
is still extant, forming a singularly picturesque ruin. The
Abbey was originally a magnificent building, erected in
1202 — 1233, but was sold and almost entirely pulled down
about 60 years ago. The blocks of trachyte of which it
consisted were employed in the construction of the locks on
the North Canal (R. 54). Some of the finest old German pictures
in the Pinakothek of Munich were formerly brought froni the
church of Heisterbach. Refreshments may be procured at the
farm-buildings. The whole of the abbey-lands are the property
of the Count zur Lippe whose family burial-ground is at the
foot of the hill.

The path to the Great Oelberg turns to the r. by the E.
wall of the Abbey, ^/^ M. farther to the r. again, and after
1 Yj M. more the Stenzelberg (886 ft.) is reached, where the
most extensive quarries of trachyte in the Seven Mts. are
worked. The stone is columnar and almost always arranged
in perpendicular masses, but is far inferior in elegance and
regularity to the basaltic columns (p. 63).

The path to the 1., which leaves the road a little farther
on, must now be taken; it soon emerges from the wood, and
crosses the fields to a red house, the school ot Heisterbacherrott.
The broad road to the r. must now be taken and the wood
is soon re-entered; 3 M. from Heisterbach the foot of the hill
is reached, at the point where our path joins the Konigswinter
road (see p. 55). Here the turning to the 1. must be taken,
and a steep winding path will bring the pedestrian to the top
in about 20 min. The * Great Oelberg (1429 ft.) is a basaltic
mountain through which the trachyte has been upheaved. The
prospect from the summit is the most extensive on the lower
Rhine, and the foreground is at the same time highly picturesque,
differing in many respects from the view from the Drachen-
fels. The entire wooded tract of the Seven Mountains liea
like a raised map before the eye of the spectator, the Rhine
is seen glittering between the valleys which intersect its banks,
and its course may be traced as far as Cologne; in the

Mountains. LOWENBURG. J6. Route. 55

distance to the S. the Taunus, and to the N.E. the heights
in the neighbourhood of Dusseldorf bound the prospect.

From the Oelberg to Konigswinter 3'/^ M. The above-mentioned
road, ^-hich the road from Ueisterbach joins at the foot of the hill, leads in
a W. direction straight to KOnigs winter. About half-way, two broad tracks
diverge to the 1., leading to the quarries of the Ofenkaulen-Berg, which yield
tlie so-called oven-stone, a trachyte conglomerate.

After descending from the summit of the Oelberg, the road
continues in a S. direction to St.Margarethenkreuz (St. Margaret's
cross) (Ya M.), a hamlet which derives its name from a cross
decorated with a relief of St. Margaret with a crucifix and
the enchained dragoi).

From the Oelberg to the Drachenfels. About 100 yds. to the S.
of the Cross of St. Margaret a path through the wood diverges from the road
to the r. and leads in a W. direction along the N. brow of the mountain-chain
to the Drachenfels, about 3 M. distant. The path, which finally passes the
quarries of the Wolkenburg and turns to the 1. on the S. side of that hill,
cannot be missed.

Following the road from St. Margaret's Cross in a S.
direction, the village of Liahx is reached ('/jM.), at the first
houses of which the path to the r. must be ascended, then
the first path to the 1. between two houses, then for Yg M.
along the heights. The path now descends to the r. into a
narrow pass between the Lohrberg (1355 ft.) on the r., and
the Scheerkop/chen (1215 ft.^, the largest mass of trachyte in
the Seven Mts., to the 1. ; y2 M. farther is the Lowenburger
Hof, where refreshments may be procured, situated 100 yds.
from the Rhondorf road, and 300 yds. from the summit of
the *IjdwenbuTg^ C1413 ft.), a ruin on a wooded peak con-
sisting of dolerite, a volcanic product which must have been
ejected in a liquid state, and now lies above the trachyte and
grauwacke. The castle, the extensive ruins of which are
visible from the Rhine, was once the scene of the conferences
which Hermann, Elector of Cologne and Count of Wied, held
with the reformers Melancthon and Bucer, before he became
a convert to Protestantism. Here, too, in the troublous times
of 1583, the Elector Gebhard, Truchsess of Waldburg, resided
with his consort, the beautiful Countess Agnes von Mansfeld,
whom he had abducted from the convent of Gerresheim. The
summit commands a fine view.

The way from the Lowenburger Hof to Rhondorf (Z M.)
cannot be missed. It descends gradually through a narrow,
and sometimes swampy mountain dale, and is shaded by groves
of oaks and beeches. The heights which bound the path on
the N. are the Oeisberg, Schallerberg, Bolverhahn, and finally
the Wolkenburg and Drachenfels^ all of which are composed
of trachyte. The ancient fortress which once stood on the
Wolkenburg has long since given place to the quarries on the
N. side. BhOndorf (BeuC) is 1 M. distant from Konigswinter,

56 Route 17. RHEINBREITBACH.

and the same distance from Honnef (see below). On the side
wall of the small church of Rhondorf is a well preserved
tombstone of the last knight of Drachenfels, with coat of arms,
and the date 1530, brought from the old Abbey of Heisterbach.

In the rich and fruitful plain, 1 Yj M. broad and 3 M. long,
which lies between the Seven Mts. and the Rhine, are situated
the flourishing villages of Rkeinbreitbachy Honnef, and Rhondorf.
The mildness of the climate and the beauty of the country
attract numerous visitors to this district in summer, especially
to Honnef, which is gradually becoming the Interlaken of
the Rhine. Besides a number of country residences which have
here sprung up of late, there are several boarding houses:
*Dr. de Berghes at Honnef, pension lYg — lYs Thlr.; Hotel
Klein (D. exc. W. 15 Sgr.), Zum Siebenyebirge^ both good and
moderate inns; Clouih, at Bheinbreitbach (pension 1 Thlr.
and upwards).

Excursions from Rheinhreitbach: to the BreidtacherKreuz, near
the village, commanding a pleasing view ; to 4he ^Haanenburg
(2Y4 M.), property of a merchant of Cologne, by a broad path
through the vineyards, fine view from the top of the tower,
and beautiful walk back, round the building and over the Heide-
kamm; to the "Giants' Graves" (Hunengraber), IY2 M. from
Honnef. Near the Haanenburg are the copper mines of Marien-
berg, and 1 Y2 M. farther N. the copper and lead mines of the
Virneberg, once worked by the Romans. From the Vimeberg
a path through a fir-wood leads to Farinasruke and thence to
the Menzenberg (1 Y2 M.).

Excursions from Honnef. One of the most delightful is a
walk of 2 hrs., by the farmhouse of Zicklenburg, to Menzenberg^
the slopes of which yield the best red wine of the district,
past the Hager Hof, a large farmhouse, by the foothpath to
Rheinbreitbach and back to Honnef by the road. A shorter
walk (1 Y2 ^0 ™*y ^^ taken to Menzenberg, passing the vine-
yards of the so-called Hager Koppelchen (fine view). The
churchyard of Honnef also commands a pleasing prospect. —
The Lowenburg (p. 55) is best ascended from Honnef (3Y2 M.),
as the path to it offers a succession of beautiful views. Way
back from the Lowenburg by Rhondorf (3^/4 M.) to Honnef
(1 M.) see p. 55.

17. The Valley of the Ahr.

Comp. Map R. 15.

Distances. From Kemagen to Ahrweiler 9 H. (Bodendorf 3, Heppingen 3,
Ahrweiler 3J; from Ahrweiler to Altenahr 7V4 M. Diligence several times
a (lay in IV2 hr. Carriage from Reraagen to Altenahr and back, for 1 — 4 pers.,
l-horse S'/c, 2-hor9e 4'/, Thlr., inc. tolls and driver's fee (comp. p. 61).

LANDSKRON. 17. Route. 57

.^ footpath (4VaM.), leading from Remagen to Heppingen, effects a
I ^PS of I'/s M. At the Apollinarisberg the turning to the I. must be taken,
Jeaaing through some quarries, and about 500 paces will bring the pedestrian

ine J. By proceeding in a straight direction, two new houses (1 M.) are
reached, where a road to the 1. leads to the Landskron (!•/, M.) and the
straight road to Heppingen (!•/, M.).

.. -"^ "6 full-flavoured dark red wines produced by the vineyards of the
Z \\F ^^^ ^'^'j "* 8®®** seasons upwards of 600,000 gallons (the most
celebrated are those of Walporzhetniy Ahrweiler, and Bodendorf), are well-
*"^^'! under the name of Ahrbleichert.

Millions of *^Rumpchen'' (cyprinus phoxinus), small fish 1 — 2 in, in length,
®'"® *""ually caught in the Ahr, boiled in saltwater, and packed in willow-
oark for exportation. They are served with vinegar and oil, and are esteemed
^ great delicacy.

The Akr rises at Blankenheim in the Eifel, traverses a
winding and generally narrow valley, 54 M. in length, and
falls into the Rhine below Simig. Near the wooden bridge
over the Ahr near Sinzig, the road which leads to the Ahr-
thal diverges from the main road to Coblenz and traverses an
open country, the hills which enclose the valley being as yet
low and far apart, passing the villages of Bodendorf, Lokrs-
^<^i Heppingen^ Wadenheim, Hemmessem, and Akrweiler. As
yet there is no trace of the wildness which characterizes the
upper part of the valley; the land is on the contrary fertile
and well-cnltivated; the slopes exposed to the S. are covered
with vineyards, and the heights on the opposite bank with
wood.

The liandskroii (856 ft.) is a basaltic peak which attains
a greater height than the other hills which bound the lower
part of the valley. The castle of Landskron, on the summit,
is said to have been founded in 1205 by Philipp the Hohen-
st^nfe, when on his way to be crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle,
that he might from this point carry on his hostilities against
the Archbishopric of Cologne, which supported the claims
of the Emperor Otto IV. The castle, in the 14th and 15th
centuries the property of a race of knights of the same name,
and in 1667 destroyed by the French. The richly endowed
chapel on the S.W. side of the summit has been spared; a
basaltic grotto serves as sacristy. Near it is a quantity of
massive basalt, curiously deposited above columnar basalt. The
view from the Landskron comprises the Ahrthal from Ahrweiler
to the Rhine, the higher peaks of the Seven Mountains, to the
S. part of the Eifel with the castle of Olbruck, and to the W.
the ruin of Tomberg near Meckenheim. Seen from the W. side,
from the road below, the hill with the white chapel and ruin
on the top is a very picturesque object in the landscape.

At the foot of the Landskron, on the S. side, lies the village
of Heppingen (3 M.), with two pleasant mineral springs.

58 lii^ute 17. AHRWEILKR. The Valley

Near Wadenheim, IV2 M. farther, a new spring, the
Apollinarishrunnen^ was enclosed in 1853. On the opposite (r.)
bank of the Ahr are the Baths of Neuenahr, opened in
1858, and rapidly rising into importance. The supply of water
96 — 114° Fahr.) is abundant, and strongly resembles in its
component parts the springs of Ems, of which Neuenahr is
probably destined some day to be a formidable rival. This
water is especially efficacious in pulmonary complaints, gout,
and scrofula. The bathing establishment, with which a pension
is combined, is replete with every comfort and convenience*
and the beauty and repose of the situation offer great attraction
to the traveller in search of retirement, as well as to the
valetudinarian. On a lofty peak (1008 ft.), at the foot of which
the village of Beul and Bad Neuenahr lie, rises the Castle of
Neuenahr, destroyed as early as 1371, and once the seat of
a younger branch of the Counts von der Are, who became
extinct in the 16th cent. Ahrweiler is 2^/^ M. distant from
Neuenahr or Wadenheim. The small church of Heimersheim,
2 V4 M. to the £. of Neuenahr, is, like that of Sinzig, built in
the late Romanesque style, and contains some old stained glass.

Ahrweiler (* Krone; * Stern; Bavarian beer at the restaurant
of J. Kreutzberg)^ a cheerful little town surrounded by old
walls. The Gothic church was founded in 1275 (the summit
of the tower and roof repaired subsequent to 1689), and the
town probably enclosed by walls about the same date. In
the feud between the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne and
the deposed Archbishop Ruprecht of the Palatinate the town
successfully stood a siege in 1473, and in a later feud between
the same chapter and the deposed Archbishop Gebhard, Ahr-
weiler sided with the former. In 1646 and 1689 it suffered
greatly from the devastations of the French, and on the latter
occasion was, with the exception of 10 houses, entirely burned
to the ground. A fine view may he obtained from the
Galvarienberg, an eminence Ys M. to the S., surmounted by
an extensive building, formerly a Franciscan monastery, now
an Ursuiine nunnery, and much frequented as an educational
establishment.

Near the entrance to the narrower part of the valley lies the
village of Walporzheixn {StPetnis) {^/^ M.), where the best Ahr-
wine is produced. The vineyards are kept with the utmost care.

A rocky ravine is now entered, penetrating the jagged and
cleft slate mountains; on the 1. rashes the Ahr, and on the
r. rises almost perpendicularly a black wall of slate-rock, from
which a single ridge called "rfte bunteKuh" projects. To the r. of
the road are the ruins of the old nunnery of Marienthal (1 y^ M.),
abandoned at the commencement of the French Revolution.

of the Ahr, LOCHMUHLE. 17, Route. 59

About y4 M. farther, before entering the village of Demau,
a footpath, far preferable to the dusty road, leads through
the valley, which here widens a little, along the bank of the
Ahr, passing an old stone bridge, which however must not
be crossed, to the village of Rech (1 '^ M.). Here the valley
again contracts. The river Ahr winds through a wild and
rocky district, the road following its course, rounding the
precipitous Saffenhurg, and leading to Mayschoss (1 y^ M.) and
the Lochmilhle (72 M.), where travellers may find tolerable
accommodation for the night. (S., R. and B. 22 Sgr.)

The pedestrian may, if he please, choose a different way
from Rech to the Lochmiihle. Close to the bridge (on the r.
bank), a path ascends to the r. through the vineyards (closed
from the end of August till the middle of October) to the
ridge of the hill, the summit of which is occupied by the
fragments of the Saffenburg (794 ft.). It is related of the
"brave" French commander of the castle, when it was besieged
in 1703 during the Spanish war of succession, that, when
summoned to surrender the place, he replied that he was not
at all disinclined to do so, but begged that, to save his honour,
three cannon-shots should firnt be discharged against the castle.
His wish was complied with, and he was then enabled "honour-
ably" to eevacuate the castle, which was blown up in the
following year. On the W. side of the Saffenburg the path
descends rapidly and joins the road at the bridge of Mayschoss,
close to the Lochmiihle (Inn, see above). [From the bridge at
Rech over the Saffenburg to the Lochmiihle is a walk of about
35 miu.; by the road by Mayschoss a few niin. more.]

Near the Ijochmiihle is a cutting in the rock, the walls of
grauwacke being 40 ft. in height, beyond which the hamlets
of Lach and Reimerzho/en are reached, and a little farther on,
the road passes through a tunnel, 92 yds. in length, on emerging
from which the clean little village of Altenahr {Gaspari;
IVinckler) comes in sight.

It is, however, far preferable to leave the road at Reimerz'
hofen, 1 M. from the Lochmuhle, and follow the footpath which
ascends through the vineyards (closed during the vintage-season),
leading to the Cross (15 min.) which is visible from the road.
It stands on a rocky ridge, 350 ft. above the stream, and
commands the finest *view in the whole valley, surpassing
that from the castle of Altenahr, as the latter itself forms
the foreground of the wild and rocky landscape. The path
descends on the other side of the hill to Altenahr (8 min. walk),
passing a decayed gate-way which forms the entrance to the
Castle of Altenahr, The latter is perched like an eagle's nest
OR the summit of a grand and rugged wall of rock, 348 ft.

60 Route n, ADENAU.

above the village, and was once the seat of the powerful
Counts of the Are and Hostaden or Hochsteden. Conrad,
Archbishop of Cologne, the last of the elder branch of the
family, laid the foundation-stone of the cathedral of Cologne
in 1248. The castle fell into the hands of the French in 1690,
was occupied by a Bavarian garrison in the Spanish war of
succession, and finally, in consequence of the peace of Utrecht
(1714) was blown up, like the castles of Sa£fenburg and the
Landskron, to prevent its becoming a harbour for robbers.
Admission 3 Sgr., or for a single visitor 5 Sgr. ; the custodian
is generally at the ruin, but it is safer to inquire for him in
the village.

One of the finest points of view is the *Horxi9 above
Altenahr; to Altenburg 15 min., thence to the pavilion with
guide an ascent of 45 min.

The short distance between the "6«n^e Kuh'' and Altenahr
is undoubtedly by far the most beautiful part of the valley,
which, however, offers many fine points of view above Altenahr
(diligence from Altenahr to Adenau daily in 2 hrs.). One of
the best views is obtained from the bridge over the Ahr;
farther on, to the 1., are the rugged rocks of the ^^Teu/eU"
kanzeV^ {DeviVs Pulpit) and then the grand mass of rocks known
by the name of the Old Castle* The bright-looking castle,
picturesquely situated on a rugged peak near Kreuzberg^ is
a private residence. At DtLmpelfeld, 6 M. from Altenahr,
the road leaves the Ahr, and leads in a straight direction to
Adenau {*Halber Mond), the principal village of the district,
in the vicinity of which are the two highest points of the
Eifel, the basaltic peaks of Nurburg (2118 ft), 47, M. to the
S., surmounted by a ruined castle with a lofty tower, and
the *Hohe Acht (2340 ft.), 6 M. to the £., the latter of
which commands an extensive and magnificent view over the
whole of the Eifel as far as the mountains of the Rhine,
and even the cathedral of Cologne. Near the top there is
a small hut for protection against the weather. The guide from
Adenau, provided with a telescope, 10 Sgr. The traveller
may, if he please, drive nearly to the summit of the Hohe
Acht (in ly, hr., charge 2^/^ Thlr.). From the Hohe Acht
N.E. to Kaltenhorn 3 M., to Leimbach 3 M., to Kempenich
(Comanns) 374 M. From here the castle of Olbriick is Zy^ M.
distant (to the N.E.), the Laacher See (R. 19) 10y2 M., but
the road is uninteresting. Carriage from Adenau over the
Hohe Acht to Laach and Andernach 7 Thlr.: from the Hohe
Acht to Kempenich 2 hrs., to Laach 2 hrs., thence to An-
dernach in IYj hr., the whole drive occupying 5V2 hrs. Or
a carriage may be taken from Adenau over the Hohe Acht

REMAGEN. 18. Route. 61

by Virneburg and Mayen (R. 19) to Andernach in ^^/^ hrs.,
fare 6 Thlr. From the Hohe Acht by Virneburg {MUlier) to
Mayen is a walk of about 15 M.

On the Ahr itself, which the road leaves at Dumpelfeld
(see p. 60), there are two other fine points, at Schuld, 3 M.
to the W. of Diimpelfeld, and at Antweiler (Neubusch), near
which are situated the ruins of the castle of Aremherg, once
seat of the Dukes of Aremberg. Antweiler lies 6 M. to the
W. of Adenau.

18. The Bhine from Remagen to Coblenz.

Comp. Map R. 15.

Distance from Remageu to Sinzig 3 M., Nieder-Breisig 2V4 M., Brohl
2V4 M., Andernach 4% M., Neuwied 3 M., Cobleuz 9 M., total 24 M. — By
railway, see R. 36, in 1 hr. ; fares: 30, 22V2 and 15 Sgr. — By steamboat
(fares: 16 or 10 Sgr.) in 3'/2 hrs. (down in 2 hrs.); piers at Remagen and
^euwied; small-boat stations at Linz, Niederbreisig, Brohl, Lentesdorf, Ander-
nach, Urmitz aud Engers. The steamboat is far preferable to the railway
ou account of the beauty of the scenery.

Bemagen i* Hotel Furstenberg, R. 15—20, B. 8, D. 20,
A. 5 Sgr.; *Konig von Preussen; * Hotel Monjau), steamboat
and railway stat. — Tariff of charges for carriages fixed by
the police (inc. tolls and fees) : to Ahrweiler l-horse 1 Yj Thlr.,
2-horse 2 Thlr., the drive back 20 Sgr. or 1 Thlr.; to Alten-
ahr 2V2— 3 Thlr., drive back 20 Sgr.— iVi Thlr., if the
carriage be kept for the whole, day 4 — 5% Thlr.; Laacher
See and back (1 day) 3 — 4:% Thlr., or by Andernach 4 —
6 Thlr. These charges are mentioned in such detail as
Remagen is the best place for head -quarters between Bonn
and Coblenz for making excursions.

The small town of Remagen was known to the Romans
as Rigomagus. A milestone bearing the date 162, found in
1763 when the high road was in course of construction,
records that the old Roman road which formerly passed here
was begun under the Emperors M. Aurelius and L. Yerus.
It indicates the distance from Cologne as being 30,000 Passus,
which is tolerably correct. Several of these stones are ex-
hibited in the museum at Bonn.

The choir of the Church was, as an inscription on the
outer door records, erected in 1246. The interior contains
several old frescoes. The churchyard-wall, next to the exterior
of the W. side of the choir, consists of Roman concrete-
masonry.

The Portal next to the Rom. Cath. parsonage is worthy
of inspection. The grotesque sculptures which it bears are
very ancient, and are interpreted as signifying that the animals

62 Houte 18, APOLLINARISBERG. From Remagen

and persons they represent are excluded from the sacred

edifice.

Below Remagen, on an eminence on the road-side rises

the * ApollinariBbergp, a beautiful Gothic church, erected by

the Count of Furstenberg-Stammheim (d. J 859), under the

direction of Zvcirnet\ the late eminent architect of the cathedral

of Cologne. The old building in front of the church was

formerly a rich deanery of Siegburg, much resorted to by

pilgrims. The church, which is a perfect gem in its way, is

open daily from SVj to 12, and 2 to 4 o'clock; on Saturdays

aud the eves of festivals from OYj to 12, and from 2 to 4.

Admission on bundays and holidays 27^ Sgr. It is adorned

with 10 large frescoes in the best style of German art. The

view, from this point, of the Rhine from Honningen to

Konigswinter, and the Seven Mountains in the background is

one of singular beauty.

** Frescoes. Ou the 1. on enteriug the church, representations from
the life of the Saviour; on the r. aceues from the life of the Virgin. In the
transept to the 8., 8t. ApoUinaris consecrated bishop, aud miraculous resus-
citation of a girl; ou the N., destruction of idols, death and gloriMcatiou of
the saint, and a Crucifixion. In the choir on the r., coronation of the Virgin,
uu the 1. the Resurrection. In the choir -niche the Saviour -with Mary
and John the Baptist, St. Peter and St. ApoUinaris with the four Evangelists.
— The crypt contains the old sarcophagus of the saint, belonging to the
14th cent., and surmounted by a modern statue.

Opposite to Remagen, near Erpel, rises the Erpeler Lei
(625 ft.), a basaltic cliff, the quarries of which are the most
profitable on the Rhine, as the stone is at once transferred
to the vessels on the river. The columns, however, do not
present the same elegance as those of the Minderberg and
Dattenberg quarries (p. 63). Above Erpel lies (1.) Kaabachy
surmounted by the ivy-clad ruins of Ockenfels^ then Linzer-
hausen.

(1.) liinz (*Nas8auer Hof), an ancient walled town which
formerly belonged to the Electorate of Cologne The fine
old church in the round-arch style, dating from the beginning
of the 1 3th cent., contains an admirable picture painted in
1463 , representing the Annunciation and Crucifixion on the
outer wings, the Annunciation and Coronation of the Virgin
on the inner, and the Nativity, Adoration, Presentation in the
Temple &c. , in the centre compartment. The picture has
recently been cleaned and retouched. The churchyard com-
mands a fine view to the S. W., in the direction of the
confluence of the Ahr with the Rhine; the round tower of
the castle of Olbruck stands out on a mountain peak in the
distance. The environs of Linz yield a considerable quantity
of red wine, and during the vintage the little town is the*
central point of the busy scene.

to Bonn, ARENFKLS. 18. Route. 65

The extensive * Basalt Quarriea at Duttenherg and ou the Afinderbenj
Hear Lin« well deserve inspection, especially the latter. The road to the
Minderberg ascends the valley to the E., leading to the Stemerhutte,
copper, vitriol, and zinc works. (Near it is a castle of the Prince of Salm-
Kyrburg; above it the Renneberg with a tower on the summit). From the
Sternerhiitte the path ascends to the 1. and the quarry soon comes in view.
It is a spacious hall of the most beautiful black prismatic basaltic pillars,
some of them upright, others heaped together in confused masses, varying
from 3 to 10 inches in diameter, and sometimes attaining a length of 20 ft. ;
when strnck they produce a clear metallic ring. These masses resemble
numerous charcoal piles closely crowded together, and form a huge wall,
suggesting by its beauty the celebrated Fingal's Cave in the island of Staffa>
The *view from this height (1328 ft.) is considered by many to equal that,
from the Oelberg (p. 54). The pedestrian is recommended to return by the
Kasbachthal; guide unnecessary; should be be iu doubt, he may ask the
way at the large farm-house on the bill. The whole circuit may be made
from Liuz in about 3 hrs.

The columns iu the quarry of Dattenberg (IV^ M. from Linz) are a»
high as those in the quarry of Minderberg, but much thicker and more
massive. A fine view is obtained from the foot of the ruined castle in the
grounds of Herr von Mengershausen , of the windings of the Ahr , with the
basaltic peak of the Landskrou (p. 57) in the background.

The stone yielded by these quarries is admirably adapted for pavements
and the foundations of buildings, but, as it attracts moisture, is unsuitable
for the upper parts. It is exported in large quantities to Holland, where it
is employed iu the construction of dykes.

To the £. of Linz rises the Hummelsherg (1345 ft.), on the
summit of which stands a cross, erected by the burghers of
Linz in commemoration of the battle of Leipzig. Ano*jher
cross on the Kauersberg, nearer the Rhine, was erected in
1840 to commemorate the battle of Belle- Allan ce. On both
of these hills are also productive basalt quarries.

From the village of (r.) Krippe on the Rhine a path leads
past the manor of Godenhaus to the Mineral Spring of Sitizig,
which contains carbonate of soda and is free from iron. The
path joins the high road on the 1. bank of the Ahr, not far
from the bridge below Sinzig.

Between Remagen and Nieder-Breisig the Rhine makes a
long circuit, which both the railway and the road cut off.
The beautiful church of (r.) Sinzig (on the railway, 1^2 M.
from the river) is visible from the steamboat.

The village of (1.) Dattenberg, peeping out of a ravine, is
opposite to the confluence of^he Ahr (R. 17) and the Rhine.
On the same bank Leubsdoxf , with an ancient royal abode,
a small building with four towers, and near it Ariendorf.

On an eminence to the 1. rises the castle of Arenfels,
with gilded pinnacles and weathercocks, erected by Henry of
Isenburg, and named by him after his consort the Countess
of Are. It is now the property of Count Westerholt, by
whom it has been restored. A tall round stone tower of
peculiar construction surmounts the castle. The grounds
which extend along the brow of the hill command a seriea
of fine views.

64 Route 18. RHEINECK. From Remagen

\. HOnningen (*Krau8) and lUieiiibrolil (Krone) ^ with
a handsome Gothic * Churchy built of grauwacke, are two
villages of some importance, situated in a fertile plain, beyond
which the mountains to the 1. rise more abruptly from
the river.

r. Nieder-Breisig (steamboat aud railway stat.), near
the S. extremity of which part of an ancient Templars' lodge
is still to be seen. About iy4 M. above the village a path
ascends the wooded hill surmounted by the castle of

r. '^BJieineck. The road winds up the N. and W. sides
of the hill, at the foot of which, far below, lies the hamlet
Thai Rheineck. The square tower, 65 ft. in height, on the
S. side is the sole remnant of the old castle, which was dis-
mantled by the French in 1689, destroyed by the troops of
the Electorate of Cologne in 1692, and finally burned to the
ground in 1785. The new castle, built in the round -arched
style, belongs to Herr von Bethmann-HoUweg, and was erected
in 1832 by the eminent architect Lassaulx. The interior is
tastefully and comfortably fitted up, and contains several modern
pictures and frescoes of merit. Permission to inspect it is
seldom refused (1 pers. 5 — 1% Sgr.; a party 20 Sgr. — 1 Thlr.).
The *view from the garden, which is always open to the
public, comprises the whole course of the Rhine from far
above Andernach to the Apollinarisberg, with the peaks of the
Seven Mountains rising in the background, and is scarcely
surpassed by the prospect from the Drachenfels.

Rheineck has been since the most ancient times a boundary
between several different races. In the time of Caesar the
Eburones inhabited the district below, aud the Treviri that
above this point; opposite to the former lay the dominions
of the Sygambri, and to the latter those of the Ubii; higher
up were the Usipetes and Tenchteri. At the present day
Brohl forms a strongly defined line between the upper and
lower Rhenish dialects, and here too the picturesque head-
dress of the country girls is first observed.

To the r. the Brohlhach falls into the Rhine at the village
of Brohl {Nonn) (steamboat and railway stat.), which extends
along the hill -side and up the valley, adjoining the hamlet
of Nipi>es. Here is the depot for the tuffstone found in
the valley.

1. Nieder-Hammerstein, the vineyards of which yield a
good wine, then Ober-Hamxnerstein {Burg Hammerstein), near
which a large rocky peak (grauwacke) rises abruptly from the
river, surmounted by the ruined castle of Hammersiein. Here
the Emperor Henry IV. resided for some time when per-
secuted by his son Henry V., and here he kept the imperial

to Coblenz. ANDERNACH. IS. Route, 65

insignia till their removal by his usurping successor. Daring
the 30 Years' war the castle was in turn occupied by the
Swedes, the Spaniards, the troops of Cologne, and those of
Lothringia, and was finally destroyed in 1660 at the instance
of the archbishopric of Cologne, being deemed too powerful
a neighbour to be tolerated.

On the heights, about 4'/, H. to the £. of the Rhine, the course of the
-well-knowu Roman intrench ment, which was constructed as a protection
against the attaclcs of tlie Germanic tribes, is distinctly visible, and may be
traced from Monrepos as far as the Seven Mountains. The table-land above
Hammerstein in the immediate vicinitv of the intrenchment still bears the
name Mars/eld (field of Mars), vrhere Roman coins and other relics are fre-
quently found.

Above (r.) Fomich rises the Fornicher or Weghuhler Kopf^
recognizable from a great distance by the solitary group of
trees rising from the bushes on the summit. It is the nearest
volcanic peak to the Rhine, and the lava stream, divided
into huge pillars close to the road, is visible from the
steamboat.

(r.) Namedy, a small village at some distance from the
river, possesses a small but elegant Gothic church of the
15th cent., divided into two parts by a row of slender pillars;
near it is the castle of the ancient knights of Namedy. On
the 1. extends the considerable village of Leutesdorf (Eisen),
surrounded by productive vineyards planted among the rocks.
As Andernach is approached the mountains which confine
the river commence to recede.

The ancient and picturesque town of (r.) Andernach
(* Hackenhnich; steamboat and railway stat.), with its old
bastions, Roman gate and high watch-tower, was known
to the Romans by the name of Antonacum {Statio ante Nacum,
station before the Nette). It was an ancient frontier fortress,
and the head-quarters of the prcsfectus miliUmi Arinsensium, of
the Legio XXL rapax, and the Legio XXII. primigenia^ of
the Cohora Tidnenais and the Cokors Asturiensia. It was con-
quered by the Allemanni in 335, but retaken by the Emperor
Julian in 359. In the middle ages it was an Imperial town,
and was taken by the Electorate of Cologne in 1496; in 1698
it was burned down by the French.

They also destroyed the Schloss, erected in 1109 by Fre-
derick I., Archbishop of Cologne, and defended against them
by the troops of the Elector of Brandenburg; the extensive
ruins rise from the deep fosse near the Coblenzer Thor. On
the pointed and vaulted Stadtthor (town -gate) the traces of
violent attempts to destroy it are still visible.

The Pfarrkirche, with its four towers and richly decorated
portals, is a fine specimen of the late Romanesque style
Babdbkbs's Rhine. 5

66 Route 18. NEUWIED. From Remagen

(1206); the choir was erected in 1120. On the vaalting of
tlie nave are seen the Imperial arms, with those of the town
and of Hermann IV., Archbishop of Cologne (d. 1508). The
choir was re-decorated in 1856. The carved wooden pulpit
was brought in 1807 from the Abbey of Laach (p. 72).

The tall round Watch-tower on the Rhine, with its octa-
gonal summit, was erected in 1414 — 68. The wide breach
on the W. side was made by the French cannonade in 1668.

The volcanic products of the neighbourhood of Auderuach, millstones of
lava (p. 70), tufbtoue, trass, &c., form au important branch of commerce,
and are exported to all parts of the world. The lava quarries are at Nie--
denuendig, near the Laacher See p. 72), T'/a M. to the W. of Auderuach,
and are best reached from here, returning to the Rhine by the valley of
Brohl (p. 70).

Above the small village of (1.) Fahr are the ruins of the
Teufelshaus (devil's house) or castle of FriedericfiBtein^ begun
in the 17th cent., but never completed. It received the above
appellation from the serfs who were employed in its con-
struction, on account of the arduousness of the tasks imposed
on them. Farther up, on a fertile eminence snrronnded by
fruit-trees, stands the Romanesque Feldkirche. At the small
fishing village of Irlich, a short railway connects the river
with the extensive Rasselstein foundry, the first puddling-work
erected in Germany (in 1824). Between Irlich and Neuwied
the Wiedbach falls into the Rhine.

The steamboat now touches at the cheerful and industrial
little town of Neuwied (^ Anker ^ Wilder Mann, both on the
Rhine; Brudergemeinde. Steamboat pier on the 1., railway
Stat, to the r. on the opposite bank, Yj M. from the river).
At the lower extremity of the town are situated the handsome
palace and park of the Prince of Wied. The town was
founded in 1653 by Count Frederick of Wied, on the site of
the village of Langendorf , which had been destroyed in the
30 Years' war. Under his protection the town, which is
divided into squares by streets 40 ft. in breadth, rapidly-
increased in importance. Its population is now 7000, con-
sisting of Protestants, Rom. Catholics (2000), Moravian Brothers,
Anabaptists, Quakers, aud Jews, who all live together in great
harmony. Starch, chicory, and tin-wares are the principal
products of the place.

The Pheasantry, an isolated building in the park, contains
a collection of ^Objects of natural history, brought by Prince
Maximilian from Brazil in 1817, and from N. America in
1836. Admission at any hour may be obtained by applying^
to the porter at the entrance gate of the palace (fee 10 Sgr.,
for a party 20 Sgr.). A small collection of Roman antiquities
in a room adjoining the road is only interesting from the

to Cohlenz, NEUWIED. 18, Route, 67

fact that they were all found in the vicinity of Neuwied.
The coins in the collection are of various dates down to 260,
when the camp which stood here was probably destroyed by
the Franks. The excavations made in 1819 and 1857 at the
village of Niederbiber have been since filled up, and the
traces of the Roman camp have disappeared under the
plough.

Tbe community of Koravian Brotlwn, also called Herrenhuter from
the village of Herreuhut iu Saxony, -where they bad established themselves
after their expulsion from Moravia during the 30 years' war, occupies a
separate part of the town. Their establishments are well worthy of inspection,
and afford au insight into the habits of this remarkable sect. As is well
known, they were originally the followers of John Huss, and as is usual in
all cases of religious persecution they increased enormously in numbers after
the death of their leader. They now form what may be called a religious
republic, having their own laws both for public and private life, which are
administered by their elders, or religious chiefs. In their manners and
habits they are grave and austere, which has gained for them the appellation
of the Quakers of Germany. The unmarried brothers live in a separate
building and carry on different trades, the profits of which are devoted to
the community, bf these manufactures the best known are the faience stoves,
and deeT*skin gloves. Visitors are readily admitted, but are first conducted
to the magazine, where they are expected to make some purchase. The
establishment for the sisters is conducted iu a similar way; they are easily
recognized by their peculiar white head-dresses, fastened with ribbons of
various colours, according to the situation in life of the wearers — girls dark
red, young unmarried women pink, married women blue, and widows whit^.
At stated seasons "love-feasts" are celebrated in the church, accompanied by
singing, prayers, and a sermon, during which tea is partaken of. The
educational portion of the establishment is justly celebrated, aud is frequented
by pupils from all parts of Germany, as well as from England. There are
many other schools at Neuwied which also enjoy a high reputation.

(The country-seat of Monrepos (1008 ft.) 6 M. from Neu-
wied, the white walls of which stand out in striking contrast
to the wooded slopes on which it stands, forms a conspicuous
point in the background of the landscape.)

Opposite to the park the (r.) Nette falls into the Rhine.
The mountain with the two peaks which rises to the W. is
the Plaidter Hummerich (909 ft.). On the road and railway
is (r.) the Netterhof^ important on account of its numerous
corn, oil, bone, and other mills.

r. Weissenthurm; at one end of the village rises a tall
square watch-tower, erected by Kuno von Falkenstein in 1370,
being the extreme point of the dominions of the Electors
of Treves, which here adjoined the territory of the Arch-
bishops of Cologne.

On an eminence above the village stands a small obelisk to the memory
of the French General Hoche, who here crossed the Rhine iu 1797 with the
army, aud shortly afterwards died suddenly at Wetzlar at the age of 30.

The inscription records that it was erected by the army of the Sambre
and Meuse to its general, but it was really erected by his widow (d. 1859),
aud has been repaired by the Prussian government.

(r.) Der gute Mann, formerly a hermitage, with a new
chapel, near which are Eome lime- kilns and a manufactory

68 Route 18. ENGKRS.

for the preparation of the Engers stone (see below); then
Urmitz and Kaltenengera

Near (1.) Engers (^ R6merbrucke\ steamboat stat.) may be
seen some fragments of old wall (concrete- masonry, in which
coins of Constantine have been found), perhaps remnants of
the counterpoise of a Roman bridge or of a tete de-pont. At
this spot there is reason to believe that Csesar*s second pas-
sage of the Rhine took place.

Engers, formerly called Kunostein- Engers, was in ancient
times the capital of the Engersgau. The Archbishop Kuno
von Falkenstein erected (in 1386) a fortified castle here
with a round tower (the ivy - clad trunk of the latter
rises below the palace), which was Intended to protect the
navigators of the Rhine from the rapacious Counts of the
Westerwald. On its site stands the present chateau (lately
converted into a Prussian military school), erected by the
Elector Johann Philipp von Walderdorf in 1758.

Near (1.) MtUilliofen, where the Saynhcusk falls into the
Rhine, rise the smelting furnaces of the Foundry of Sayn,
and farther from the river the Concordia Foundry.

On the hill-side, about V/^ M. inland, the ruins of the Castle of Sayn,
destroyed by the French in the 30 Years' war, are visible from the steamboat.
Belo-w it is situated Sohlou Sayn, a modern residence of the Prince oS
Savn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg, open in absence of the family on Thursdays
till 5'/2 p.m. (Admission-card V/^ Sgr. ; proceeds devoted to charitable pur-
poses). The chfiteau is magnificently fitted up, and contains a small but
select * collection of modern pictures. The hill on which the extensive ruins
of the old castle are situated has been laid out as a park. The summit
commands a beautiful prospect, similar to that from the Friederichsberg (see
below).

Near the obuteau are the extensive royal iron -works of Sayn {*Burg
Sayn), the buildings of which consist almost entirely of cast-iron and glass.

Above the valley rises the Friederichaberg', laid oat aa a park by the
government of Nassau, and much resorted to in summer. The views obtained
from, the heights of the rich and orchard- like plain of the Rhine, and the
narrow ravines of the romantic valley of Sayn are extremely beautiful and
well repay the ascent. Farther up the valley {3*/^ M.) are situated the ruins
of the castle of Isenburg , the ancient family seat of a still flourishing race.

On the 8. W. wooded slopes of the circle of hills which encloses the
beautiful Engersgau^ rises the church-spire of Heimbach^ near which are the
ruins of the ancient abbey of Eommeradorf , with fine cloisters and chapter-
house, erected about 1200. Some of the pillars are of verde antico.

Between Sayn and Engers a peculiar kind of pumice-stone conglomerate
is dug up in the open fields. It is cut into squares and dried, and is much
valued as a building material for inner walls, on account of its durability and
lightness. The bed is in some places 20 ft. in depth. Geological research
has suggested the idea that, before the Rhine broke through the chain of
mountains near Andernach, the basin of Neuwied was a deep lake. The
pumice-stone ejected from the volcanoes of the 1. bank of the Rhine (p. 70)
was probably washed down by the rain into the lake, where, in combination
with a clayey binding material, it formed the deposits which now yield the
above-mentioned stone.

1. Bendorf (Rheinischer Hof; Beringer), surrounded with
fruit-trees, and possessing a curious old Romanesque church;

NIEDERWERTH. J9. Route. 69

farther up (r.) the villages of St. Sebastian and Eessel-

heim^ opp. to the island of Niederwerth, Partly concealed

by the island lies (1.) the busy little town of Vallendar^ with

a handsome new church, built by Lassaulx.

In the valley behind Vallendar are the remains of the nunnery of
Schonstatt viHh its well preserved Gothic towers, abandoned in 1567, after-
wards destroyed by the Swedes, and now converted into a cloth factory.
From this point the road to the 1. Jeads through a beautiful wooded vnlley
to the wealthy Nassovian village of H5hr iMullenbach)^ with its extensive
potteries.

On the long island of (r.) Niederwerth stands the di-
lapidated-looking village of the same name, with a convent-
church built in 1500, containing a carved altar-piece and frag-
ments of good stained glass. Edward III. of England once
resided here for a short time in 1337, and had several inter-
views with the Emperor Louis and other princes.

1. MallendaTy a great portion of which formerly belonged
to the knights of the Teutonic Order; on an eminence above
the village stands the JJaus Besselichj once the property of
the Knights Templar, and afterwards an Augustine nunnery
till 1804, when it was secularized and passed into private
hands. The garden commands a fine view. On the hillside,
higher up the river, is seen the village of Urbar, surrounded
by fruit-trees.

r. Wallerslieixn, and above it Neuendorf, chiefly in-
habited by raft-men. The smaller rafts generally lie here for
some time and receive considerable additions until they reach
the dimensions of 850—900 ft. in length and 180—250 ft. in
breadth; they are furnished with a number of wooden huts
on the middle for the accommodation of the crew, which
frequently numbers 150 — 160 men. It is said that a raft
proprietor must have a capital of at least 45,000/., one third
of which consists of wood in the forest, one third timber on
the water, and one third is requisite for the expenses of
transport from the Upper Rhine to Dordrecht in Holland.

The steamboat now passes the influx of the Moselle,
commanding a view of the lofty arches of the bridge, glides
beneath the rocks and bastions of Ehrenbreitstein, and finally
stops at Coblenz (R. 20).

19. Brohlthal, Laacher See, Lava quarries

of Niedermending.

{Comp. Map R. 15.)

Distances. From Brohl (p. 64) to Tonnisstein 4% M., to Wassenach
27, M., to the Abbey of Laach 3 M., to Miedermendig 3 M., to Maven 3 M.
Diligence twice a day between Mayeu and Coblenz in 3 hrs., to the Ncu^Tied

70 Route 19, BBOHLTHAL.

station in 2V« hrs. The Laactier See may be most conveniently visited by
carriage from Andernach; a two- horse carriage from Andernach to Nieder-
mending, Laach (where dine), Tonnisstein, Brohl, and back to Andernach,
costs 3 Thlr., the drive occupying about b^/^ hrs.

The "^Brohlthal has been for more than half a century
the object of the unwearied investigations of many celebrated
geologists. It is a beautiful winding valley enclosed by
high, wooded mountains, traversed by a rapid brook and
studded with numerous mills and other houses, but the
principal object of interest is the extensive bed of Tuffstofie,
15 — 20 ft. in thickness, of which the whole of the bottom
of the valley consists. It is a soft whitish -grey or pale
yellow stone with sponge -like pores and much veined with
pumice stone, very similar to the Italian puzzolana earth,
and is believed to be the product of volcanic mud-streams.
It is sometimes found covered with softer, sandy substances
such as loose pumice stone and volcanic ash, and sometimes
on the surface of the earth, where it has been exposed bv
the action of the weather. The tuffstone was in very eariv
times used as a building material, and almost all the churches
from this part of the Rhine down to Holland were constructed
of it, the cornicings and carved work being hewn out of the
trachyte of the Drachenfels (which however is more easily
weathered than the tuffstone). In more modern times it has
never been employed for building purposes, except in the
case of the church of Apollinarisberg (p. 62). The tuffstone,
however derives its principal value in commerce from the
^Urass", or cement made from it. When pounded down and
mixed with lime it possesses the invaluable property of har-
dening under water, and is exported in large quantities to
Holland, where it is used in the construction of the dykes.
(Geologists should consult the admirable Geognostic-orographic
maps of the neighbourhood of the Laacher See, by Oeynhausen
pub. at Berlin, 1847.)

The numerous mineral springs in the vicinity of the
Laacher See, and especially in the Brohlthal, may serve as
a proof that the volcanic agency has not yet altogether
ceased. They are formed by the carbonic acid gas which
rises from the fissures of the slate rocks and impregnates
the springs to such an extent, that they form probably about
one half of the water which the Brohlbach conveys to the
Rhine.

The period when the beds of tuffstone were formed cannot
possibly be determined, as even the pumice-stone, the most
recent volcanic production, which frequently covers the for-
mer, belongs to an epoch far more remote than any recorded

BROHLTHAL. i9, Ronte. 71

in htiman history. The fact that the Romans, the earliest
annalists of this part of the world, buried their dead in those
same pumice-stone beds (at Andernach for example), serves
to prove their antiquity. It is, however, a remarkable fact
that the remains of plants contained by the tuffstone belong
to species which still exist.

The tuffstone quarries are seen on both sides of the valley,
and are partly open, partly subterranean, forming extensive
galleries, supported by natural pillars left for the purpose.
Here and there, where these galleries have fallen in, the
pillars which have been left standing, are covered with the
most luxuriant vegetation, favoured by the decomposition of
fhe stone, and enhance the beauty and variety of the valley.
A good high-road leads through the valley from Brohl to
Ober-Zissen (p. 74), and a tolerable carriage -road from
Tonnisstein (see below), to the Abbey of Laach and Nieder-
mendig.

At the entrance of the Brohl valley, on the N. side, the
traveller passes a paper-mill, surrounded with gardens and
grounds. About 1 % M. farther, the small castle of Schwep-
penburg^, probably erected in 'the 16th cent., rises from an
eminence in the middle of the valley. The garden contains
a Roman altar found here. About ^/^ M. farther up the
valley, which here diverges to the S. is the Heilbrunnen , a
mineral spring with a saltish but refreshing taste, similar to
that of the Krenzbrunnen of Marienbad.

One mile from Schweppenburg, the road to the 1. leads
through a side- valley to the Laacher See, while that which
continues in the valley in a straight direction leads to Olbriick.
On the former road, soon after the Brohlthal is left, the
traveller reaches the TGnnissteiner Brunnen, the water
of which is strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas,
and, when mixed with wine and sugar, forms an agreeable
and refreshing beverage. The marble basin was constructed
in 1700 by Joseph Clemens, Elector of Cologne, and the
grounds were laid out by his successor Clemens August.

Seven minutes' walk from Tonnisstein the road (to regain
which the pedestrian must retrace his steps from the springs
and recross the bridge) passes the ruins of the (1.) Carmelite
monastery of Antoniusstein (hence the corruption "Tonnis-
stein"), leads through the village of Wassenach {Laacher
ffo/)y and descends through the wood towards the Laacher
See. On the r. rises the wooded Veitskopf (1228 ft.) a vol-
canic peak with a double crater opening on the W. side, and
a broad and rapidly descending stream of lava. The view

72 Route 19. LAACH.

from this point of the lake surrounded by wooded hills is
very striking.

On the S. W. bank rises the Benedictine Abbey of *Laach,
founded by the Count Palatine Henry 11. in 1093, and se-
cularized in 1802, once one of the wealthiest and most cele-
brated in Germany. In 1863 it became the property of
the Jesuits, who have converted it into an educational
establishment. The church, completed in 1156 (no longer
used for divine service), with its dome, five towers, and crypt,
in the Romanesque style, and richly decorated, is an object
of almost equal interest to architects and the unprofessional
traveller. The beautiful cloisters, restored in 1859, belong to
the close of the 12th cent., and the curious monument o€
the founder, the foremost pillars of which are monoliths of
calc sinter, to the end of the 13th. The church is the pro-
perty of, and is kept in repair by Government. What was
formerly a large summer-house in the orchard is now con-
verted into an inn of small pretensions. Excellent pike fishing
may be enjoyed on the lake, and a traditional fish of 40 lbs.
is made an additional incentive to the angler. As the fishing
is farmed, whatever fish is captured must be purchased if
carried away. Boats with the services of fishermen acquainted
with the lake may be procured at the inn, which also affords
tolerable refreshment and accomodation.

The ^Laacher See (846 ft.) is nearly round, averaging
1% M. in diameter, and is about 6 M. in circumference. It
is the largest of the crater- tarns (R. 33) of the Eifel and was
probably one of the more recent results of the volcanic agency
in this district. It is not itself a crater, but is believed to
have been formed by a series of volcanic eruptions which took
place in the vicinity, especially by the upheaving of the Veits-
kopf (p. 71). There are several craters in the hills which
surround the lake, the principal of which is the Krufter Ofen
(1443 ft), 1 M. distant, the barren, brownish -red slag walls
of which sink towards the lake.

The road leads along the W. side of the lake, but the E.
side is by far the more interesting for the geologist. At the
N. E. corner, y^ M. from the Wassenach road, on the 1. side
of the footpath , and near a barren spot to the r. of the
meadow, is a "Tno/e^e" (comp. R. 33) in a bed of clay, about
20 ft. above the level of the water, where dead mice, birds,
squirrels, &c. are constantly found, having been suffocated
by the carbonic acid gas which continually issues in greater
or less volumes from the hole, affording another proof that
the volcanic agency is not yet completely extinct (comp. p. 53).
The lower strata of the air in this cavity are overpowering

MAYEN. 19. Route, 73

even to human beings, of which the traveller may satisfy
himself by bending down his head.

After an inundation in the 12th cent, which threatened
the destruction of the Abbey lands, the Benedictines caused
a shaft to be sunk on the S. side of the lake, bv which the
water is conveyed under ground to the Nette. A similar
shaft constructed in 1845 has lowered the level of the lake
by about 23 ft.

The extensive basalt-lava * Quarries of Niedermendi^
{Mailer) are situated about 3 M. to the S. of the Laacher See.
i'he subterranean galleries, which extend over an area of 3 M.
in length and 1 % M. in breadth, reach as far as the Krufter
Ofen (p. 72), but the lava-stream which was probably ejected
by the ForBtberg (1842 ft.) is the largest at Niedermendig, where
it is intersected by numerous and spacious halls, supported
by huge pillars. These pits, which were probably worked
by the Romans, are almost all connected with each other,
and communicate with the surface of the earth by means of
wide, walled shafts for ventilation and the transport of the
stone. A guide (10 Sgr.) precedes the visitor with a torch;
the inspection occupies abont an hour. The temperature in
these mines is so low that even in the height of summer
huge icicles are suspended fi*om the roof, and masses
of ice are seen in all directions. The lava is not only
used for millstones, but on account of its extreme hardness
and durability forms an excellent material for paving and
building purposes. The deserted galleries are used as beer-
cellars, and to them the beer of Mendig is indebted for
its celebrity.

At Mayen {*Mvller; Post), the district town (diligence
twice a day to Coblenz in 3 hrs., to the Neuwied station in
2% hrs.), there are also lava -quarries, which, however, are
more open and of a less depth than those above described.
The lava-bed in which they are worked is the outlet of the
sunken volcano of Ettringer-Beller-Kopf (1287 ft.), 1^^ M.
N. from Mayen. The E. side of the crater commands a fine
view of the fruitful plain which lies ) between Mayen and
Andemach, and of the valley of the Rhine. The rugged walls
of the S. extremity of the lava-field are to be seen at the
Itei/er Muhle in the valley of the Nette, about 1^/2 M. below
Mayen, and in the vicinity of the slate quarry of Radscheck.

From Laach to Mayeu another road leads by Bell^ the same distance
(6 M.) as by Niedermendig, passing the reraarliable brickstone (similar to
tuffstone) quarries of Bell. Beyond them rises the ^Forstber^ (1842 ft.), the
crater of -which opens towards the N. W. The Hochstein , a mass of rock
on the W. side, commands a fine view of the Laacher See, the EifeJ, and the
Khine as far as the Seven Mountains. Below the Hochstein is an old artificial

74 Route 19, BURGBROHL.

grotto, the origin of which is unknown. From the Foratberg the road leads
by EttriH'jen and the above mentioned Ettringer-Beller-Kopf to Mayeu.

From the Laacher See to the Rhine (or from Niedermendig) are
three different ways: Ist, the old road to Andernach (9 M.)i which offer;}
little variety, passing the villages of Nickenich and Etch a little to the r. ;
2ud, the high-road to Andernach (10 'A M.) by Kruft (in the valley are seen
the ruins of Korretsburg) j Plaidt, and Miesenheim^ where the Andernach
road diverges from that to Neuwied: the latter leads in a N. E. direction,
passing the Netterhanimer and Joining the Coblenz road at the Netterhaux
near the Neuwied station; 3d, to Coblenc ^ which by the direct road
(by Ochtendung, Bassenheim and Rubenach') is 15 M. distant. About l'/^ M.
from Miedermendig it pasaes the Gburoh of tt Qaaorafa, where according to
the old tradition the saint was discovered in the wilderness by her husband
Siegfried, Count Palatine of Hohensimmern. The church contains monuments
■of both. Near the brook which crosses the road not far from the church,
numerous mineral springs bubble up on the road-side (p. 71).

Instead of diverging to the 1. to Tonnisstein (p. 71), the
traveller may keep the road In the Brohl valley, which will
bring him to Burg^brohl (^SaUntin) (L M.), a picturesquely
situated village with an old castle, once the seat of a family
of the same name. The huge masses of calcareous tuff of
which the rocks here consist, have been gradually deposited
by the mineral springs, like the thermal tuff of Carlsbad.
The road next passes through Nieder-Zissen {* Burchartz)
(3 M.), Ober-Ziflwen (1 ^^ M.) and Hain (Rademacher) (1 M.) ;
1 M. further the castle of Olbrdok (1456 ft.) is reached.
The latter is one of the highest points in this district, and
commands an extensive yiew of the volcanic peaks of the
Eifel, the hilly country in the direction of the Rhine, and the
Seven Mountains. The only part of the castle which is still
in good preservation is the lofty sqnare tower, a conspicuous
object in the landscape when viewed from the Seven Moun-
tains and the plain of the Rhine. The peak on which it
stands consists of clink-stone or phonolite, also a volcanic
product. From the Perler Kopf (1800 ft.), 3 M. to the W. of
Olbriick, the prospect is still more extensive. [From Olbruck
S. W. to Kempenich (p. 60) 3^4 M., thence to the Hochacht
(p. 60) lOVa M.].

The traveller who wishes to return to the Rhine by a dif-
ferent route is recommended to take the path at Nieder-Zissen
{see above) which ascends to the N., traversing a low wood
(the Scheiderwald) , passing the volcanic peak (2^^ M.) of
Herchenberg (997 ft), the summit and E. slopes of which
consist of tnffstone, the W. side of slag, and the S. of cleft
pillar- like lava; ly^ M. farther Ober-Liitziixgeix, 174 M.
Hieder-Liitzingeii {^ Paulsen) ^ then turning to the 1. by the
chapel, over the ridge of the mountain, and finally through
wood bearing to the r., the castle of Bheineck (p. 64)' (2 M.)
is reached, the entire distance from Nieder-Zissen being 6^/4 M.

t I t =r

C4 CM e« M ^ N '^

•St

Sjs3gi;qv5

8a«

ttJi Uf9 l;^<Of)

-I . ■I'

COBLENZ. 20. Route. 75

This path passes at Nieder-Zissen by the foot of the Bau-
senberg (1056 ft.)> which rises to the N. of the village, 450 ft.
above it. Its summit is one of the finest and most distinctly
defined craters in the vicinity of the Laacher See, its inner
wall, 79 ft. in height, opening to the N. W. The lava stream
may be traced 3 M. in a N. E. direction, down to the valley
of the Pfingsthach at Gonnersdorf, where it terminates in huge
columnar masses of rock.

20. Coblenz.

Hotels. On the Rhine: 'Giant (Pi. a) and •Bellevue (PI. b) (R. 15—
20 Sgr., L. 5, B. 10, D. 24, A. 6 Sgr.). — » An ker (PI. c) (K. and B. 22 8gr. ;
* Hotel de Prusse (PI. d.) (R. and B. 19 Sgr.). — In the town: •Hotel
de Treves (PI. e) in the Clemensplatz, quiet (R. 15, B. 8, D. 20, A. 5S!;r.).
— *Hdtel de Liege (Pl.f), not far from the station and the Moselle steam-
boat wharf; Wildes Schwein (PI. g); Traube. — In Ehrenhreitsteiu;
White Horse, with garden commanding a fine view of the Rliine and
Coblenz.

Oaf<te. *Trinkhalle, on the Rhine-promenade, y, M. from the Holxtlior:
ill summer a Cafe on the Rhine-wharf, opp. the steamboat piers; botli of
these command fine views. Hubalecic, opp. the post-ofhce. Beer iu all.

Kewtpapera in the Casino; strangers introduced by a member.

Porterafe from the steamboat to one of the hotels on the Rhine: 2 Sgr.
for every box, 1 Sgr. for smaller packages ; into the town 3 or 2, to Ehreu-
breitstein 4 or 2Vi Sgr.

Kilitary Kusio on Sundays at ll'A) And Wednesdays at 12 o'clock, in
the Clemensplatz.

Baths in the Rhine, attached to the bridge of boats; in the Moselle on
the I. bank fferry 1 Sgr.). Swimming-baths in the Rhine, a little below
the bridge; charge for a single bath (excl. of towel etc.) 5 Sgr.

Xailway Station on the W. side of the town, within the ramparts.

Telegraph -of&ce in the Schloss Rondel, No. 11.

Oazriages. One-horse : for a drive 1—2 pers. 5, 3 pers. 7, 4 pers. 8 Sgr. ;
for an hoar 15, foi each following hour 7Vi Sgr.; to Laubbach (p. 90)
10, there and back, with one hour's stay, 15 Sgr.; to Capellen (Stolzenfels)
17 Vj, there and back, with one hour's stay, 27% Sgr. ; for half a day 1 Thlr.
714 1 or including the Konigsstuhl 1 Thlr. ^V/^ Sgr. To the Karthame
(p. 79) as far as the Schone Ausncht and back, with one hour's stay. 1 Thlr.
To the top ofEhrenbreitstein and back, with 2 hours' stay, 1 Thlr. 7 '/^ Sgr.;
to Arenberg (Calvarienberg worth a visit, view magnificent) and back, with
2 hours' stay, 1 Thlr. 5 Sgr.; to Niederlahmtein 22>/'tf there and back, with
one hours' stay, 27Va Sgr., for half a day 1'/^ Thlr.; to Ems (R. 22) 2 Thlr.
.«i Sgr., there and back, with stay of '/, day, 2 Thlr. 20 Sgr.; for the whole
day 3 Thlr. 10 Sgr.; to Sayn (p. 68) and back, with two hours' stay. 1 Thlr.
22'/2 Sgr. — Two-horse carriages cost one half more. Bridge toll (4'/i — 6 Sgr.)
may be saved by taking a carriage in Ehrenbreitstein for excursions on the
r. bank of the river. Stands on the Wine near the ^ Giant", near the Maimer
Thor and in Ehrenbreitstein near the bridge. N.B. Carriages from the hotels,
and those not furnished with a number have no fixed charges.

English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain every Sunday
in the English Chapel in the Palace.

Xoselle-steamboats comp. R. 33. The following two-days' excursion in-
cludes the most beautiful points on the Moselle. By steamboat to Alfy by car-
riage to Bertrich 1% Thlr., or to the Falkenlei^ near the village of Kenfuss^
about 2V4 Thlr., visiting, on the way back to Bertrich, the Cheese -grotto^
waterfall, Bertrich itself and environs, and .returning the same evening
to Alf. On the following morning by steamboat back to Coblenz, arriving
iu the afternoon.

76 Route 20. COBLENZ.

Travellers whose time is limited are recommended to walk down the
Rhine from the steamboat wharf to the Moselle, then to the 1. along the bank
of the latter and through the gate, inspect the Castorbrunnen and Castor-
kirche (p. 77), the Moselle bridge (p. 78), the 8. gates of the town (p. 79),
the view from the Karthaase (p. 79), and on the way back the Cemetery,
all of which may be accomplished in 4 hrs. *Ehrenbreitstein, see p. 80,
*8tolzeufeU R. 24.

Coblenz, at the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine,
is the capital of the Rhenish Province and the seat of the
highest civil and military authorities. Population, including
a garrison of about 5000 men, 27,767 (3752 Prot., 415 Jews);
pop. of Ehrenbreitstein 4287.

No town on the Rhine can vie with Coblenz in the beauty
of its situation, and many circumstances contribute to its im-
portance. It stands at the confluence of perhaps the two
most lovely streams in the world; equidistant from the im-
portant towns of Cologne and Mayence, it forms a half-way
resting place to travellers from both, and it is necessarily the
depot at which the commerce of the Moselle, the Rhine, and
the Lahn is concentrated; when to these advantages is added
its great importance in a military point of view, that it is a
favourite residence of the amiable sovereign who has endeared
herself to her Coblenz subjects by a thousand acts of gene-
rosity, that it is the resort of crowds of the pleasure-seeking
of our own and other countries, it may be readily understood
that Coblenz stands unrivalled amongst the cities of this
beautiful and highly-favoured province.

The side of the town which faces the Rhine consists of a
row of handsome buildings, commencing with the palace,
government buildings, and other houses mostly of modern
construction, and terminating with the venerable and imposing
Church of St. Castor and the sadly unpicturesque building
which formerly belonged to the Teutonic order. The side
next to the Moselle, extending as far as the railway bridge,
has a much poorer aspect, but is far from devoid of interest.

Coblenz was the Conjluentes of the Romans, and belonged
to a series of fortresses erected by Drusus on the I. bank of
the Rhine in the year B.C. 9, as a protection against the in-
cursions of the neighbouring Germanic tribes. It is also men-
tioned by Ammianus Marcetlinus (d. 390) as being the only
Roman fortress on this part of the Rhine in his time. At
the junction of the two rivers several coins of Roman emperors
were discovered in 1844, when the new wharves were in
course of construction.

Till the establishment of the Rhenish Towns' Confederation,
Coblenz was a place of little importance. In the 30 Years'
war it was in turn besieged and garrisoned by the Swedes,

Church of St. Castor, COBLENZ. 20. Route 77

the French, and the Imperial troops. In 1688, although
the greater part of the town was destroyed by the French
cannonade, it successfully resisted the attacks of Marshal
Bonfflers. On the completion of the palace in 1786 it be-
came the residence of the Elector of Treves, but a few years
later (Oct. 23rd, 1794) it was taken by the French, who exacted
a contribution of 4 million francs and made it the capital of
the Department of the Rhine and Moselle. On the 1st of
January, 1814, the French were compelled by the allies to
evacuate the town, and in the following year it became sub-
ject to the crown of Prassia.

The * Church of St. 'Castor (PI. 2), close to the junction
of the two rivers, was founded by Louis the Pious in 836;
the present structure dates from 1208, and is said to present
the earliest example of what is called the ^'Lombard style"
in the Rhenish Provinces. The sharp-arched vaulting belongs
to the year 1498. The N. choir contains a remarkably fine
monument of the Archbithop Kuno von Falkemtein (d. 1388,
see p. 68); it is a Gothic sarcophagus- niche with a fresco
(adoration of the Saviour, on the r. St. John and St. Castor,
and on the 1. the archbishop kneeling, Mary and Peter) as-
cribed to the then celebrated master Wilhelm of Cologne.
The two fine frescoes in the choir were painted by Sette-
gast in 1849 and 1852. The Monument of St. Riza, who
according to an ancient tradition was a daughter of Louis
the Pious, is a modern work. The new Portal was erected
in 1862.

Opposite to the entrance of the church stands the Castor-
brunnen (PI. 4), erected by the last French prefect in com-
memoration of the French campaign against Russia, with the
inscription: "^n 1812. Memorable par la campagne contre lea
Russes. Sons le prefecturat de Jules Doazan" The Russian
general St. Priest, who entered the town on the 1st of Ja-
nuary, 1814, with exquisite irony caused the words: " Vu et
approuve par nous Commandant Ruese de la ville de Coblence,
le 1. Jan. 1814 y* to be added.

Adjacent to the Castorplatz is the residence of the com-
mander-in-chief of the Rhenish province, a large and strag-
gling pile with no claim to architectural beauty, but posses-
sing some interest from the associations with which it is
connected. It was formerly the seat of the Counts of Leyen,
and in 1791 afforded an asylum to the Counts of Provence
and Artois. In 1800 it became the seat of the French prefect,
and in 1804 (17th — 20th Sept.) was visited by Napoleon and
his consort

A few steps northward bring the visitor to the Mosel-

78 Route 20. COBLENZ. Palace.

strasse, by following which, passing the crane and under the
bridge, he will reach the Wolfsthor. On entering the town
by this gate, and passing the Metternicher -Ho/, birthplace of
Prince Metternich, on the r., he reaches the * MoflBeUe-bridg^
with its 14 arches, erected by the Elector Balduin in 1344
(the tower was added in 1832), and commanding a fine view
of Ehrenbreitstein. Across it are conveyed the conduit-pipes
which supply the town with water from the heights of Metter<
nich, a village 2 M. distant. Above the bridge is the new
railway-bridge, and 3 M. beyond it the blue roofs of Rube-
nach with its tall spire are seen glittering in the distance.

On re-entering the town, the ancient Archiepiseopal Palace
{Burg^ PI. 11) stands on the 1. It was erected in 1276; the
handsome staircase of the tower belongs to the more recent
additions. It is jiow converted into a manufactory of japanned
tin-wares.

With the exception of St. Castor's, the churches offer few
objects of interest. The laebfirauenkirclie, or Church of
Our Lady, was founded in the 13th cent., but not completed
till the I5th. The Gothic choir, with its lofty pointed win-
dows, was added in 1405, the upper parts of the towers were
renewed after the siege of 1668. — The Carmelitenkirche,
erected in 1673, has recently been fitted up as a garrison-
church. The (Prot.) Florinskirche was built at the commen-
cement of the 12th cent., the choir added subsequently to 1356.
Near the latter is the Kaufhaus, or Merchants' Hall, erected
in 1480 as a Town-hall, and used as such till 1805.

The Schloss, or palace, in the "Neustadt", is a building
of considerable extent, but no architectural pretensions. It
was erected by Clemens Weuceslaus, the last Elector of Treves
(d. 1812; in 1778—86, and occupied by him till 1794. Soon
after his departure the French successively converted it into
a hospital and a barrack. In 1845 it was restored by the
Prussian government, and since 1850 has been a frequent
residence of the Prince and Princess (now King and Queen)
of Prussia. A suite of apartments in the building is assigned
to the use of the President of the Rhenish Province, and the
N. wing contains the military protest, church and the English
chapel. The latter was liberally placed at the disposition of
the English residents by the Princess (now Queen) of Prussia,
who not unfrequently attends the service.

In the middle of the Clemensplatz (military music see p. 75),
adjoining the Esplanade with its numerous trees, rises a foun-
tain-obelisk, erected by Clemens Wenceslaus in 1791, and de-
dicated ''^vicinis suis". Opposite to it, and adjoining the Hotel
de Treves, is the Theatre (PI. 20).

Promenade, COBLENZ. 20. Route, 79

The handsome S. gates, the Mainzerthor and the Ldhr-
th.Or, belong to the fortifications of the town, and serve as
barracks for the artillery and pioneers. A glance at the ram-
parts from the drawbridges in front of the gates will convey
an idea of the fortifications of the town, which are, however,
of far less importance than the strongly fortified outworks of
£hrenbreitstein, the Karthause, and the Petersberg. The new
* Promenade, which the traveller will reach in 5 min. from
the Mainzer Thor by traversing the glacis to the 1., extends
for upwards of 2 M. along the bank of the river, and well
deserves a visit on account of the beautiful view it aifords.
The new and handsome iron * Railway Bridge is seen to
the 1., as the glacis is quitted.

The fortifications on the Karthauee, on the r. bank of the
Moselle, consist of Fort Alexander on the summit, and lower
down Fort Constantine, the latter occupying the site of an
ancient Carthusian monastery. The road which ascends the
hill between rows of trees and leads to the Hnnnsrucken was,
before the construction of the road along the bank of the
Rhine, the high-road to Bingen and Mayence. The view about
half-way up is singularly beautifol ; in the foreground is the
rich plain of the Rhine and the island of Oberwerth, and the
background consists of a semicircle of picturesquely shaped
hills with the castles of Stolzenfels and Lahneck.

On the side of the Karthause facing the Moselle, about
150 paces S. from the military rifle-practice ground, is a spot
railed in and furnished with seats (^^*die sckone AussichV)
which affords a strikingly beautiful glimpse of the peaceful
and lovely valley of the Moselle. If the road along the brow of
the hill be now followed in the direction of the fortifications,
the traveller will reach a broad road planted with poplars,
which continuing nearly on the same level, leads round the
fortifications of Fort Alexander, affording a succession of fine
views, and joining the main road near Fort Constantine.

The *Ktllikopf (1159 ft), the wooded summit to the S.
of the Karthause, is about 1 % M. distant from the exercising-
ground, and commands a splendid and peculiar prospect, es-
pecially from the Luisen-Linde (a large lime-tree named after
the Princess Louisa of Prussia, now Graud-duchess of Baden),
from which three navigable rivers, the Rhine, the Moselle, and
the Lahn, are visible at the same time. About Yj M. beyond the
point where the path from the Kuhkopf joins the road, another
road (for pedestrians only) descends to Stolzenfels (p. 90).

At the foot of the fortifications of Fort Alexander, on the
N. side, is situated the * Cemetery, with its numerous monu-

80 Route 20. COBLENZ.

ments and weeping willows, where, among other illustrious
dead, lie the remains of the poet Max von Schenkendorf (d. 1817).
Beyond the bridge over the Moselle rises the slight emi-
nence of Petersberg, crowned by the fortifications of Fort
Pranz, which commands the town, the roads to Treves
and Cologne, and the entire intervening plain. Two smaller
outworks, to the r. and 1. of the principal fort, and connected
with it by subterranean passages, and a third in the plain
near Neuendorf, complete this portion of the fortifications and
form an extensive camp capable of afibrding shelter to 100,000
men. The full complement of the garrison in time of war is
fixed at 15,000, but owing to the admirable arrangements of
the works 5000 men (Alexander and Constantine 2000, Frans
500, Town 800, Ehrenbreitstein 1200 and Asterstein 500)
would be sufficient to defend the town against an enemy of
far superior force.

Within the walls of Fort Franz, to the 1. on entering, a
plain marble slab, enclosed by four corner-stones, indicates the
grave of the French General Hoche (p. 67), whose remains
were brought from Wetzlar to Goblenz and here interred, and
near it his companion in arms Marceau (J'-soldat a 16 ans,
general a 22 ans"), who fell at Altenkirchen in 1706. The
monument of the latter as well as his remains were, on the
construction of the fortification in 1819, removed to their
present position at the foot of the hill, on the 1. hand side
of the Cologne road, about % ^^' from the Moselle bridge.
Byron's well-known lines:

**By Cobleiiz, on a gentle rise of ground,
There is a small and simple pyramid,
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound;
Beneath its base are hero's ashes hid
Our enemy, — but let not that forbid
Honour to Marceau!" &c.

refer to the monument in its original position.

The fertile plain which extends between Coblenz and Andernach is cele-
brated in history as the scene of Caesar's first passage of the Rhine (near
Bngers), B. C. 55, the contests between Charles the Bald and Louis the German
in 871, the devastation of this district by the Normans in 882, the sieges of
the 30 Years' war in 1631 — 1636, the murderous and destructive campaign of
Louis XIV., the Spanish war of succession, and the French revolutionary
war of 1794—1797. — About 1 M. to the N. W. of Marceau's monument is
situated Schdnbornslust, once a villa of the Elector of Treves, and the resi^
dence of the Bourbon princes and other illustrious fugitives during the first
French revolution.

21. Ehrenbreitstein.

Cards of admission (2V<i Sgr.) must be procured at the office of the com-
mandant (PI. 33), the first door to the r. after crossing the bridge over the
dock. Visitors are received at the top and conducted over the fortress by

EHRENBREITSTEIN. 21, Route, 81

^ soldier. Two hours suffice for the walk from Cobleus to the summit and
back. The view from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (p. 82) is similar to that from
Ehrenbreitstein ; no permission necessary.

Opposite to the influx of the Moselle rises the majestic
fortress of * Ehrenbreitstein, justly termed the Gibraltar of
the Rhine, situated on a precipitous and rugged rock, 377 ft.
above the Rhine and 566 ft. above the level of the sea. The
castle which formerly occupied the site of the present fortifica-
tion is said to have been presented by the Franconian king
Dagobert to the Archbishops of Treves, and it is known that
the latter were confirmed in their possession by the Emperor
Henry II. in 1018. It was subsequently greatly enlarged and
strengthened at various periods, and became a fortress of
great importance. It has only twice succumbed to an enemy,
once having been taken by stratagem, and once reduced by
famine. On the first of these occasions it fell into the hands
of the French in 1631 , under whose protection the Elector
Ohristoph von Sotern had placed himself. The Elector having
found a pretext for drawing off the greater part of the gar-
rison, the French crossed the Rhine at Bingen, marched across
the hills from Lorch to Montabaur, and entered the fortress
in the rear. Five years later it again came into the possession
of the Imperial general Johann von Werth.

During the French revolutionary war, Ehrenbreitstein was
besieged four different times, in 1795, 1796, 1797, and 1798,
and was finally surrendered, Jan. 27th, 1799, by the brave
Colonel Faber, after all the provisions had been consumed.
Immediately after its occupation by the French, they added
several new intrenchments on the N. side, but in consequence
of the peace of Luneville they blew up the entire works and
evacuated it in 1801. At the second peace of Paris, 15 million
francs were paid according to treaty by the French to the
Prussian government for the restoration of the fortifications,
which were recommenced in 1816 under the direction ojf
General Aster, and completed 10 years later, at a total ex-
pense of not less than 8 million dollars (1,200,000/.). The new
fortress extends over a part of the narrow table-land to the N.
of the rock, and justly excites the admiration of connoisseurs
from all parts of Europe.

A bridge of boats, 470 yds. in length, connects Coblenz
with the small town of Ehrenbreitstein. On the pillars of the
gateway are indicated the heights attained by the Rhine during
recent inundations; the highest was that of 1845.

The way to the fortress leads through the town. On en-
tering the gate beyond the drawbridge the visitor passes a
handsome building on the r., erected in 1747 by the Electors
Babdbkbk's Rhine. 6

82 Moutt 22. OBERLAHNSTEIN.

of Treves as a residence for the governors of the place. It
now serves as a provision magazine. A little beyond it the
road ascends to the r. into the fortress, passing the old
Pagenhaus (or institution for pages) of the Electors of Treves,
and the Helfenstein ^ or lower part of the fortification. The
steep flight of steps on the side facing the Rhine is now no
longer used.

On three sides Ehrenbreitstein is, according to military
criticism, inaccessible, and the N. side, where alone it could
be attacked, is defended by a double line of bastions, which
would have to be taken successively before an enemy could
enter in that direction. The view from the top is one of the
finest on the whole Rhine. It comprises the rich and fruit-
ful plain of the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Andemach, and
the numerous volcanic peaks of the Maifeld and Eifel (R. 33).
Immediately below are the Rhine, the Moselle, and the trian-
gular town of Coblenz.

The Asterstein on the Pfaffendorftr Hoke, to the S. of
Ehrenbreitstein, is connected with the latter, and forms a part
of the fortifications of the r. bank of the Rhine. The tower
on the W. slope was erected in honour of the Grand-duchess
of Baden, daughter of the present king of Prussia.

Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein were visited by Goethe iu
the summer of 1774, and he resided for some time in the
last house in Ehrenbreitstein on the 1. before entering the
fortress, at that time the residence of the Chancellor de la
Roche. The poet gives a pleasing description of his visit in
the 3rd part of his »* Fiction and Truth."

22. From Coblenz to Wetzlar.

Ems and the Valley of the Lahn.

Cornp. map. R, 24,

By railway direct, since the completion of the new railway bridge at
Coblenz, to Ems in '/„ to Wetzlar iu 2'/^ — 3 hrs. Carriage-road and footpath
to Ems see p. S'6; carriages p. 75.

On quitting the CoUenz station the train leaves the JLeft-
Bhenish line, and passing the Lohr and the Mainzer Thor
(p. 79) approaches the Rhine. From the railway - bridge a
pleasing glimpse is obtained of the tovtrn, the palace, and the
fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. Passing the villages of P/affen-
dorf, Horchheim and Niederlahnstein , and crossing the Lahn
opposite to the beautifully situated castle of Stolzenfels, the
train stops at Oberlahnstein (p. 91; *Rail\iray refreshment-
room; toRiidesheim and Wiesbaden see R. 23), where carriages
must frequently be changed.

EMS. 22. Route, 83

Tfae train iicrw sloii^'ly skirts the base of the wooded
eminence on which the castle of Lahneck (p. 92) stands, and
xemaios on the 1. bank of the Lahn till Nassau is reached.

Besides the T.'iilinray, a good road leads from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems by
Niederlahnsteiu, thence ascending the picturesque valley of the Lahn on the
r. bank of the river, passing several irou-fouudries and the village of Fach-
bachj a distance of 12 M. (by carriage in 2 hrs.) The footpath from Ehren-
breitstein over the hills (Arzheim 1 H. , signpost 3 H. farther, Fachbach
1V« lkl.« thence to Ems l'/, M., total distance 7 M.) may be found without
a guide.

Hotels in £mc. Englischer Hof, at the W. end; Russischer
Hof, in the centre of the town. Four Seasons, and Europaischer
Uof, near the Cursaal. Darmstadter Hof, near the old Curhaus. Gut-
tenbcrger Hof, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, good table d'hote; Hotel
de France, both near the station. Besides these hotels there are a great
number of lodging-houses: PanY)rama, Pariser Hof, Prince of Wales,
fitadt London, etc. on the 1. bank of the river.

CaxTia(M. To Arnstein and back 6 fl.; Biaubach 5 H., back by Lahn-'
stein 7 fl. ; Coblem 5 fl., and back 7 fl.; to Ehrenbreitstein i'/a fl., and back
6 fl.; Nassau and back 3% it.,' for the vrhole day 5'/,; Lahnstein 3'/, fl.
and back b fl., for the -whole day 6 fl. These charges include tolls and
driver's fee.

Donkeys. To Ehrenbreitstein Vf^ fl.; Braubach 1% fl. (to Marktburg
18 kr. more); Nassau 1'/, (to the castle 18 kr. more); Arnstein 1 fl. 48 kr. ;
Fachbach and Mevern 40 kr.; Mooshutte 30 kr., to the highest point 40 kr.,
same and back by Dausenau 1 fl. These charges all include the return-ride ;
the donkey-boys expect a fee of a few kreuzers. Two - donkey carriages at
somewhat more than double the above charges.

Toltffraph Ottee during the season in the Furstenhof.
EngUah Ohureh SerTico during the season in the English Chapel on the
1. bank of the Lahn.

Sms was known to the Romans, as is proved by the
vases, coins, &c., found at various times in the vicinity, and
is mentioned in a document of 1354 as a warm bath under
the inspection of the governments of Hessen- Darmstadt and
Oranien-Nassau , to the latter of which it has exclusively
belonged since 1803. It is a curious fact, showing to what
an extent Germany was formerly cut up into small principali-
ties, that from the bridge over the Lahn, which commands
but a limited view, the dominions of 8 different independent
princes could be seen.

The village (3000 inhab., V3 Rom. Cath.) has within
the last few years completely altered its aspect. For many
years it was limited to a row of lodging-houses on the r.
bank of the river, but by degrees a new Ems has sprung
up on the 1. bank, consisting of a group of handsome and
commodious residences, which are in some respects far pre-
ferable to those on the r. bank, being less exposed to the
sun, and, what is of no little moment to the invalid, more
retired, and farther removed from the bustle of the promenade
and Curhaus (rail. stat. also on the 1. bank). Among the
plantations at the back of the (1.^ Engli&h Churchy higher up

84 Route 22. EMS. From Coblenz

the hill, is seen the Schweizer Haus (Swiss House), a caf6
commanding a pleasing view. On the wooded summit of the
Mahlberg-Kopf stands a tower, much resorted to for the sake
of the view (comprising Stolzenfels), and reached by pleasant,
shady walks. Way back by the Lindenbach (*Inn), past some
silver works, re-entering the valley of the Lahn about 1 y, M.
below Ems.

The principal buildings are the Bath 'establishment with
the four towers, the old CurhauSf connected by an elegant
open hall, used as a bazaar, with the Cursaal, where the
usual seductions of an elegant ball-room, supper and reading-
rooms, with apartments devoted to gambling are offered to
the unwary traveller. The new Bath-house on the 1. bank is
a large square building with two court-yards and gardens in
the middle, and two mineral springs, the water of which is
pumped up by steam. The baths in this establishment are
better and more comfortably fitted up than those of the old
Curhaus, the latter being only separated by partitions which
do not reach to the ceiling. It also contains a new "in-
haling-apparatus." A covered iron bridge connects this bath-
house with the walks on the r. bank of the Lahn.

The most celebrated springs are the Kesselbrunnen (117*
Fahr.), the Krdhnchen (79 — 85°), and the Furstenbrunnen
(93 — 95°), all enclosed in the hall belonging to the old Cur-
haus. The principal ingredients of the waters are bi-carbonate
of soda and chloride of sodium, and they are most efficacious
in pulmonary and female complaints. About 150,000 bottles
are exported every year. The annual number of guests who
visit Ems is about 5000 (in 1823 only 1200), most of them
belonging to the higher classes. The height of the season is
from the middle of July to the end of August. In the
evening between 6 and 8 o'clock the grounds of the Curhaus
are thronged by a fashionable crowd, which assembles at the
same hours in the morning, to drink the waters.

On the E. side of Ems the *Bdderlei, a rugged group of
slate rocks, rises precipitously from the street. Half-way up
are the Jianselmanh's caves, not unlike small casemates and
embrasures, sinking deep into the grauwackian strata (origin
unknown). The Mooshutte at the top commands a fine vie^w.
(Way up by the old Curhaus.) The Winterberg commands a
fine view; a Roman watch-tower and the remnants of an in-
trenchment were discovered on the summit in 1859.

The railway to Limburg keeps the 1. bank of the Lahn
till within a short distance of Nassau (11 min. from £ma).
Shortly after leaving Ems the train passes Dausenau, where
an old octagonal tower indicates the ancient fortification of

to Wetzlar. NASSAU. 22, Route, 85

tiie valley. Near stat. Nassau the Lahn is crossed by an iron
bridge, beyond which Haupt's Hydropathic establishment is
seen on the r., and a new hospital on the 1.

Nassau {Krone) was the birth-place of the celebrated
Prussian minister Baron von Stein (d. 1831). In 1815 he
eansed a Qothic tower to be added to his residence in com-
memoration of the war of liberation. Above the entrance
are the arms of the family and the well-known words of
Luther: "Eine feste Burg ist unser Gott" (our God is a sure
stronghold). The library contains portraits of Maximilian I.,
Charles Y., Luther, Frederick the Great, Blucher, &c. In
the upper rooms are preserved commemorative tablets on which
the most eventful days of the years 1812 — 1815 (war of
liberation) are recorded in gilt letters. The tower, which was
the favorite resort, and is replete with reminiscences of its
former illustrious owner, may also be visited (fee 18 kr.).
The property now belongs to Count Kielmannsegge, the son-
in-law of the minister.

The remflins of the Baron von Steiu are interred in the family vault atr
WtHeid, a village on the heights between Ems and Braobach (p. 93). The
forester has the keys of the vault, -which is built in the form of a chapel
(fee 18 kr., for a party 30 kr.— 1 fl.).

On the opposite bank of the Lahn, which is crossed by a
handsome Suspension bridge, rises a wooded eminence, sur-*
mounted by the ruins of the Castle of Nassau (fine view from
the tower), family seat of the House of Nassau, erected about
1100; below it is the ruined Burg Mum Stein. The hill is
encircled with promenades. A small open pavilion on a pro-^
jecting rock commands a beautiful view.

The road to Wiesbaden (no diligence) passes at the foot of the
hill, then enters a beautiful valley, after which it crosses the high land to
Schwalbach (R. 3d) and Wiesbaden (R. 37).

Soon after leaving Nassau the train passes the old castle
of Langenau, formerly the seat of an Austrian family of that
name which became extinct in 1603. The watch tower and
outer walls are well preserved; within the latter a modern
dwelling house has been erected. On the opposite bank of
the Lahn rises the monastery of Amstein, with its church and
other buildings, picturesquely situated among trees on a rocky
eminence. The castle, which was built by the powerful Counts
of Amstein aboat the middle of the 13th cent, was in the
following century converted by the last of the family into a
monastery, and secularized in 1803. The still habitable buildings
were up to 1861 employed as a house of correction for Roman
Catholic clergymen. Near Obemliof are old lead and silver
wines, now worked by an English company.

86 Route 22. DIETZ.

The train next passes Kalkofen^ the *'^alte Hems", the

fragment of an ancient nunnery on the heights of the 1. bank^

and Laurenburg^, a yillage with a small palace and ruined

castle, in very early times the residence of the Counta

of Nassau.

Before reaching the church , a path to the 1. ascends to the Tilla<;e of
Boheid (I'A M.) on the hill, and, about 8 min. walk farther, agaia leaves the
mnin road and desc -nds to the r. into the valley of the Lahn to Oeilnau
(17, M.)' The Lahn describes a circuit of many miles between Laurenburg
and'Geilnau, which the path just described cuts off. The mitieral spring
(no inn) of Geiluau is situated 1 '/% M. above the village, and its waters
are exported in large quantities, but it is never resorted to by the patients
in person. The valley between Geilnau and Balduinstein is extremely
picturesque.

The train proceeds in the yalley of the Lahn and after
passing through the Cramherg tunnel stops at stat Balduin-
stein i^oll), where the grand ruins of the castle of the
same name are seen rising from a narrow ravine behind the
village. High up on the r., a little farther off, the castle of
^Schaumburg^ overlooks the valley from a wooded basaltic
peak. It was once the seat of the princes of Anhalt-Schaum-
burg, the last of whom died in 1812, and now belongs to his
grandson the Archduke Stephan, who has. resided in it since
1848, and greatly enlarged and improved it. The library
contains many works of value, and a eollectit)n of minerals
occupies the groundfloor of the new part of the building.
Live bears, eagles, and deer are also kept. The hot-houses
contain many rare and beautiful plants. Refreshments (good
and moderate) to be had at the farm-buildings. The footpath
from Balduinstein to the castle of Schaumburg is somewhat
steep, by the carriage-road a gentle ascent of 15 — 20 min.

Stat. Fachingen {inn) derives importance from the cele-
brated Brunnen of that name, from which 300,000 bottles of
mineral water are annually exported. The process of filling
and corking the bottles is an interesting sight.

Dietss (* Hoildndischer Ho/; Hotel Loreng), a clean little
town, picturesquely situated on the Lahn, and surmounted by
an old castle (of the counts of Dietz), now converted into a
house of correction. The prisoners are employed in cutting
and polishing marble (found in the neighbourhood) ornaments
of various kinds which may be purchased in the magazine.
Permission to see the process, which is worth inspection,
must be procured from the director of the establishment. The
bridge which here crosses the Lahn is an interesting old
structure; it is supported by pillars erected on two othera
which lie unbroken in the bed of the river like the fallen
tower of the castle of Heidelberg.

Beyond Dietz, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, is situated

LIMBURG. 22. Route. 8T

Schloss Oraniensteinf erected in 1676, and still the frequent
residence of the Dnke of Nassau. It was for several years
occupied by the Prince William V. of Oranien- Nassau, the
exiled stadtholder of the republic of Holland, and great-grand-
father of the present king.

liimbuTg^ {*Preu88ischer Hnf^ near the post-office, R. 36 kr.,
D. 48 kr., B. 18 kr.; *Na88auer Ho/, and Deuhehes Haus^ near
the bridge) on the Lakn, which is here crossed by a bridge
erected in 1315, lies 3 M. to the N.E. of Dietz. High above
the town rises the *Domf or Cathedral, with its 5 towers:
Basilica St, Georgi erecta 909, as the inscription above the
portal records. The present strnctnre, however, one of the
finest churches in the transition style, belongs to the year 1235,
and is the cathedral of the bishop. The interior contains a
very ancient font, and in the N. transept a monument to the
Emperor Conrad I. (d. 918), founder of the original building.

Beyond Limburg the banks of the Lahn become less abrupt
for a short distance. To the 1. Dietkircheriy which boasts of
the oldest church in the Duchy, is situated on a rocky eminence
rising precipitously from the Lahn. Stat. Esekhofen ; then

Rimkel (Wied^scher Hof), an ancient town situated on both
banks of the Lahn, with an extensive old castle of the princes
of Wied, a portion of which is still habitable. Near stat.
Vilmar are considerable marble quarries; then AumenaUf with
ironstone mines, and after a rapid succe&sion of tunnels, bridges
and viaducts,

Weilburg {*Deut8cher Hof; *Traube; Schwan), once the
residence of the Dukes of Nassau-Weilburg, who became extinct
in 1816. Their chateau, erected in 1711, is picturesquely
f»ituated on a rocky eminence rising abruptly from the Lahn.
To the I. is seen the mouth of a tunnel, constructed in 1845
to facilitate the navigation of the river at this point.

The following stations are Lohnberg, Stockhausen, Braunfeh.
The small town of Braunfels, the residence of the Prince of Solms-
Braunfels, is situated on the height to the S. Stat. Atbshausen,

Wetzlar see p. 41.

23. From Coblenz to Wiesbaden.

Raihoay journey, {Comp. Map R.R, 24, 27 and 45.)

By the direct railway, crossing the Rhine at Coblent, in 3 hra.;
fares: 2 Thlr. 17, 1 Thir. 22Yiy ^ Thlr. 6 Sgr. Return-tickets, valid for,
5 days,, must be stamped for the return -journey at tiie booking office.
Passengers who break their journey must get their tickets checked on
leaving the train. Views of the Rhine to the right.

[For the detailed description of the localities mentioned on^
the following pages comp. R.R. 24, 25 and 34). t

88 Route 23. LORCH. From Coblene

From Coblenz to Oberlahnstein see preceding Route.

Stat. Oberlahnstein {Hotel Wetter; Hotel Lahneck), where
the line to Ems and Wetzlar diverges. As the train proceeds^
a view of the village of Rhense, and the fertile slopes and
woods beyond, is obtained. Stat. Braubach, at the foot of
Marksburg, is opposite to the picturesque village of Brey,
above which are situated Nieder- and Ober'Spay. Beyond
Stat. Osterspay^ above which rises the castle of Liebeneck, the
river describes a long curve; on the opposite bank, at a con*
siderable elevation, stands the Jacobsberger Hof, The train
next passes through the village of Filseny opposite to the
Mihlbad, commands a fine view of Boppard, one of the most
beautifully situated of the Rhenish towns, and reaches stat Camp,
The convent of Bornhofen and the foot of the ^'Brothers"
Sterrenberg and Liebenstein are now skirted. Above stat. Kestert,
on the opposite bank, lies the pleasant village of HirzenacK,
Beyond stat. Welmichy at the base of the ^'' Mousey^ the im-
posing rains of Rhein/els on the 1. bank, rising above the
town of St. Goar, come in sight.

Stat. St. Goaxshausen at the entrance of the Swi&s VaUey,
commanded by the '■^Cat" is next reached. The train then
penetrates the rocks of the Lurlel and Rossetein by means of
two tunnels, on emerging from which the handsome town of
Oberwesel, on the opposite bank, commanded by Schonburg^
comes into view. Opposite stat. Caub, at the foot of the
castle of Gutenfels, is situated the P/alz in the middle of the
Rhine. Farther up the river, on tlie 1. bank, lies the ancient
town of Backarachy behind which rise the picturesque ruina
of Stahleck. The next ruin on the opposite^ bank is that of
Furstenberg, beyond which lies the village of RheindiebacK,
The train now intersects the village of Lorchhausen, skirts the
base of the ancient castle of Nollingen, at the entrance of the
Wisperthaly and stops at

Stat. LiOrch. On the opposite bank, above the village
of Niederkeimbach, rises the round tower of Heimburgy and
farther on, the picturesque castle of Sooneck. Again on
the 1. bank Trechtingshausen, and beyond it the castle of
Falkenburg, at the entrance of the Morgenbachthal ; then the
Clemenscapelle and above it the picturesquely situated Rhein-
stein. The train now' halts at stat. Assmannakauaen, the
usual point whence the Niederwald is visited; a thermal
spring (95° Fahr.) discovered here by the Romans, occasionally
attracts invalids. Skirting the base of Ehren/els, and pass-
ing the Binger Loch, the Mouse Tower on an island in the
Rhine, and Bingen, at the influx of the Nahe, the train next
stops at

to Wiesbaden. ELTVILLE. 23. Route, 89

Stat. Xttldesheixn. Steam ferry to Binyerhruck, fares
7 kr. or 4 kr. On the opposite bank rises the wooded
Rochusbery with its chapel. To the I., on the brow of the
hill, are situated the village and convent of Eibingen, To
the K of Stat. Geisenheim, lies the castle of Johannisberg, with
the village of the same name, 2 M. distant; the castle is
easier of access from stat. Winkely whence it may be reached
in 20 min. To the 1. the castle of Vollraths, another wine-
growing locality of the highest repatation, and to the r. the
village of Mittelheim. Opposite stat. Oesti^ich, on the 1. bank
at some distance from the river, is situated Nieder-Ingelheim.
To the 1. of the line lies the village of Hallgarten^ amidst
vineyards of high repute-, to the r. the chateau of Reicharts-
hau»en; to the 1. the lunatic asylum of Eichberg, the abbey
of Eberbach, and the celebrated Steinberg vineyard. Beyond
stat. Hattenheim the train passes the Marcobrunn vineyards^
opposite to which three picturesque and fertile islands are
situated in the Rhine. To the 1. of the village of Erbach
rises the handsome tower of Scharfenatein near Kiedrich^ and
farther on, Bubenhausen, an eminence commanding a noble
prospect.

From stat. Eltville (Jtheinbahn Hotels at the stat), a
diligence runs twice daily in summer to Schlangenbad and
Schwalbach. On the brow of the hill to the 1. is seen the
spire of RauenihaL The line continues to intersect a series
of vineyards, and passes several handsome country residences.
Opposite stat. Niederwalluff, on the 1. bank of the river, is
situated the chapel of Budenheim, whence the *Leniaberg (re-
freshments at the forester's), commanding a fine survey of
the Kheingau, may be ascended in Yg ^^r. The Nurnberger Hofy
an inn on the heights to the 1., is another favourite point
of view. Beyond stat. Schierstein, to the r., is the Rhein-
luitte foundry, where the line quits the bank of the Rhine.
Passengers for Castel and Frankfurt proceed direct from
stat. Mosbach to stat. Curoe, without changing carriages. The
N. entrance of the ducal park of Mosbach is in the immediate
vicinity of the station. To the r. are situated the extensive
new barracks of Biebrich, beyond which, on the opposite
bank of the Rhine, rise the spires of Mayence. The line now
runs parallel with the Taunus railway, and a pleasing view
is obtained of the town of Wiesbaden, the Platte, the Neroberg
and the Greek Chapel. To the I. the buildings of the gas-
works. The stations of the Nassovian and Taiinus lines are
contiguous.

24. The Bhine from Coblenz to St. Goar.

Comp. Map R. 24.

Distances: from Coblenz to Capellen Sy, M., Uhense 2'/4 M., Niederspay
<opp. to Bniubach) I'AM., Boppard 4'/2M., Salzig 3 M., Hirxenach 2 'AM'
St. Goar 3V4M.; total distance 21 M. — By rail way -on the left bank see

R. 35, on tbe right bank by Oberlahnstein to St. Goarshaiisen in 1 hr

By steamboat in 2'/i hrs. (down in V/^ hr.). Pfert at Oberlahnstein
Boppard and St. Goar; small-boat stations at Capellen, Spay, Camn and
Hirscenach. ' * '

After passing through the bridge of boats the steamer
passes the once electoral, now royal palace on the r., and
beyond the new railway bridge, the picturesque village of
Pfaffendorf with its pointed spire to the 1.

In a valley to the i*., partially concealed by the island of
Obenverfh is situated the pleasant Hydropathic estab. of Lauh-
hach, under the management of Dr. Petri (charges Sy^ — 20 Thlr.
per week for board, lodging, and med. attendance). The vine-
yards of (1.) Horchheim {* Holler) produce a good red wine;
the plain between this village and the mouth of the Lahn is
rich and fruitful (1.). Niederlahnstein (Douqtie) lies on the
r. bank of the Lahn, which is navigable as far as Weilburg,
and serves as a highway for the products of Nassau, such as*
iron-ore, mineral water, etc.

Above the village of (r.) Capellen {* Stolzenfeh ; ^Bellemey
rises the royal castle of * * Stolzenf els, the highest point of
which is 410 ft. above the Rhine. A broad and winding road
of easy access leads to it, spanned at one point by a hand-
some viaduct. Two Roman mile-stones are passed on the
road, and after entering the Klattse (now stabling), a draw-
bridge is crossed and the castle attained. The public are
readily admitted, and great numbers of visitors avail themselves
of the privilege (fee 10 Sgr. for 1 pers.; 20 Sgr.— 1 Thlr. for
a party). As only a certain number are conducted round
the castle at a time, visitors are not unfrequently kept waiting
outside, but the time is hardly misspent in the enjoyment of
the exquisite view obtained from the S.E. corner tower, im-
mediately contiguous to the entrance. — Capellen is a Rail-
way and Steamboat-station; a steam ferry-boat plies between the
stations of Capellen and Oberlahnstein. Carriage from Coblenz
to Capellen see p. 75; boat from Capellen down to Coblenz
^0 Sgr. Donkeys to be had at the foot of the hill, to the
castle 8, there and back 12 Sgr.; to the Kiihkopf 20 Sgr.,
there and back 1 Thlr. Stolzenf els is 8*74 M. from Coblenz,
and the Ko nigs stub 1 iVj M. farther.

The castle of Stolzenfels was greatly strengthened, if not
entirely built, by Arnold von Isenburg, Archbishop of Treves,

STOLZENFELS. 24. Route. 91

in 1250, and was in the middle ages frequently a residence
of the archbishops. Till 1688 it was garrisoned by the Electors
of Treves, when it met the usual fate at the hands of the
French, whose visit to this fair land is recorded, not by the
monuments they have left, but by the number of monuments
they have destroyed. In 1802 the ruin was purchased by
the town of Coblenz, and (1823) presented to the late king
Fred. William IV., at that time crown-prince. Since then it
lias been completely restored at an expense of upwards of
53,000/.

The Chapel, a small but elegant building, is decorated with * frescoes
on a gold ground by E. Deger^ representing the Creation, Fall, First
Sacrifices, Ac. — Ou the outer wall, above the garden-hall, is a fresco by
Lasfn.ily: the emperor Rupert and his nephew the Count of Hohenzollern
visiting the Archbishop of Treves at Stolzenfels, Aug. 20th, 1400. — At the
«.ide of the entrance flight of steps, stands an ancient sculptured chimney-
piece with reliefs, bearing the arms of the city of Cologne. — The walls of
the *'Rittersaal" are illuminated with six •frescoes, by Professor Stilke
of Diisseldorf, representing the principal attributes of chivalry: 1. Faith is
typified by Godfrey de Bouillon at the Holy Sepulchre after the conquest of
Jerusalem; 2. Rudolph of Habsburg sitting in judgment on the knightly
bandits represents Justice; 3. Minstrels accompanying king Philip of
8wabia and his consort Irene on a pleasure excursiou ou the Rhine is sym-
bolical of Poetry ; 4. Love is pourtrayed by the Emperor Frederick II. welcoming
liis bride Isabella of England ; 5. Hermann von Siebeneichen, sacrificing his
life to safe the emperor Fred. Barbarossa, is the type of Loyalty; and (6)
the blind king John of Bohemia at the battle of Cressy, of Bravery. — The
larger "Rittersaal" contains a valuable and extensive collection of goblets,
iirmour, and weapons; among the latter the swords of Napoleon, Murat,
BlQcher, Tilly, Koscziusko, Ac. — The upper rooms contain a modern picture
of Gutenberg", at three different periods of his life, about 50 small pictures
by old masters, DUrer, Holbein, van Dyck, Rembrandt, Ac, an ancient By-
zantine cross, antique furniture, &c.

View. At Stolzenfels the narrowest and most romantic part of the valley
of the Rhine, which begins with the castle of Ebrenfels below Bingen, may
be said to terminate. The view from the castle is scarcely surpassed by any
on the Rhine, and comprises the Marksburg, Branbach, Rhense, Oberlahnstein,
and a part of the lovely valley of the Lahn. Opposite to the castle is
situated the AllerheiUgenherg, surmounted by a pilgrims' chapel, a spot of
much pious resort. At the confluence of the Lnhn and Rhine, at the extremity
of a fertile plain, stands the Romanesque Church of St. John, and below it
the village of Niederlahnstein. Farther down the river is the island of
Oberwerih, on which a convent formerly stood, long since converted into
a country house. — The magnificent fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, the strongest
on the Rhine, is one of the most conspicuous objects in the landscape ;
opposite to it is Fort Constantine, and betw^een them lies the town of
Coblenz; farther distant is visible the small town of Yallendar with its hand-
some church.

(1.) Oberlahnstein {Hotel Welter; Hotel Lahneck), mention-
ed in an old document as early as 890, is surrounded with
remnants of ancient walls, towers, and fosses. The Schloss^
once a residence of the Electors of Mayence, was founded in
1394; the new part of the building belongs to the last century.
On the bank of the Rhine is a depot for iron-ore of various
descriptions. (Railway to Ems see p. 82, station at the steam-
boat pier.)

92 Route 24. BHENSE. From Cohlenz

Behind Oberlahnstein rises the castle of liahneck, beauti-
fully situated on a rocky eminence above the Lahn. It was
purchased some years ago by an Irish gentleman, who is
gradually restoring it with great taste and judgment; when
completed it will present an almost unique specimen of a
restored Rhenish castle. The old feudal proprietors would
hardly recognize their ancient strongholds in the generality
of the modern, so-called restorations.

About 1 Ys M. above Capellen is the KGnig^tuhl (king's
seat), situated between the high road and the Rhine^ but
partially concealed by trees from the steamboat passenger.
The original structure was erected in 1376 by order of the
Emperor Charles IV., but during the French dominion fell so
completely to decay, that at the beginning of the present
century almost all traces of it had disappeared. It was of
an octagonal shape, 24 ft in diameter and 18 ft. high, and
rested on 9 pillars, the 9th being in the centre. The top was
encircled by a stone seat, where the Electors held their meet-
ings. The present building was constructed in 1843 partly
out of the old materials. The situation was chosen on account
of its vicinity to the dominions of the four Rhenish Electors,
Braubach belonging to the Palatinate, Rhense to Cologne,
Stolzenfels to Treves, and Lahnstein to Mayence. Here many
emperors were elected, decrees made, and treaties concluded,
and here the Emperor Maximilian took the oaths, when on
his way to his coronation at Aix-la-Chapelle. Near the
Konigsstuhl is a mineral spring discovered in 1857 in the bed
of the Rhine.

On the rich and fruitful bank of the Rhine, opposite to
the Konigsstuhl, a small white chapel, situated near the
S. gate of Oberlahnstein, is visible among the trees, where,
Aug. 20th, 1400, the Rhenish Electors deprived the Bohemian
king Wenzel of the imperial crown. On the following day they
crossed the river to the Konigsstuhl, and elected the Count
Palatine Rupert III. in his stead.

Above the Konigsstuhl (% M.) lies the small town of (r.)
BJiense {Konigsstuhl; Siebenborn), once belonging to the
Electorate of Cologne, and still surrounded by the walls and
fosses constructed by the Archbishop Frederick III. of Cologne
in 1370. — Small boat to Coblenz 20^25 Sgr. A footpath
to Boppard ascends to the r. at the signpost, on leaving the
town by the S. gate.

The building about 1 M. above Rhense, on the same bank
of the river, was erected by a company as silver smelting-
works, but has never been used; beyond it, surrounded by
fruit-trees, lies the small village of (r.) Brey.

to St Goar. BRAUBACH. 24, Route. 93

(1.) Braubach {Philippshurg at the upper, Arzbdcher at the
lower end of the village; Deutschea Haus, with beer-garden, near
the station), invested with municipal privileges by the Emperor
Rudolph in 1276, is commanded by the imposing castle of
Marksburg^, 480 ft. above the Rhine. It was called the Brau-
backer Schloss previously to 1437, when Count Philipp of
Katzeneinbogen founded a chapel in it, which he dedicated to
St. Mark, after whom the castle has ever since been named.
From 1651 to 1803 it was the property of Hessen-Darmstadt,
and subsequently of Nassau. It now serves as a state-prison,
and is garrisoned by about 20 men. The summit affords a
pleasing survey of the grassy dales in the rear and of a limited
portion of the Rhine. Several Swedish cannons of the 30 Years*
war, as well as French guns, are exhibited to the visitor.
(Castellan's fee 12 kr. for 1 pers., 18 — 24 for a party.)

Two paths ascend to the fortress, one at the back, and
another (cart-track) at the upper end of the town, passing the
ancient Chapel of St Martin, and leading round the E. side of
the bill. The entrance is on the N. side. The little town
with its old watch-tower, towngate and church rising from
among poplars, with the castle in the background, forms a
charming picture, though somewhat defaced by the railway

embankments.

From this point a road leads over the hills to the Baths of Ems, about
7V<t M. distant. Refreshments to be had at the Lahnsteiner Forsthaus, not
far from Frucht^ Fine view of Dausenau and the valley of the Lahn in
descending.

In the first valley above Braubach is a chalybeate spring called the Dink-
holder Brunnen; the second is traversed by a path which ascends the hill,
commanding a fine view, and leads to Welmich (7% M.), emerging from
the wild and rocky ravine at the back of the village near the ''Mouse" (p. 96).

Above Braubach are the (r.) villages of Nieder- and
Oberspay, connected by an avenue of walnut-trees, beyond
which the river is ascended in a W. direction.

On the wooded heights above the village of (1.) 0ster8x>ay

stands the picturesque little castle of liiebeneck.

From Liebeneck to Camp (p. 95) a path leads across the high table-
land which commands a most striking view of the Rhine from Salzlg to
below Boppard, and the heights of the Hunnsriicken, of which the Fleckerts-
hohe (see p. 94) is the most conspicuous. In the opposite direction this path
is less agreeable, as the ascent is steep and leads through sunny and shadeless
vineyards.

At (1.) Filsen the river resumes its S. direction. On an
eminence to the r. stands the Jacobaberger Hqf, 500 ft. above the
Rhine, formerly a Jesuits* college, now the property of the
Grammar School of Coblenz; from this point a much-frequented
mountain-road leads to RhensBf 3 M. distant, cutting off the
circuit of 6 M. which the river here forms.

(r.) Boppard {* Pasty in the town; ^Spiegel^ on the Rhine;
Rheinischer Bof)^ the Baudobriya of the Romans, was once »

94 Route 24. MARIENBERG. From Coblenz

town of the empire^ and from 1501 belonged to the Electors
of Treves. The name seems to indicate a Celtic origin. The
Notiiia d'tgnitaium uinusque imperii, a statistical review of the
Roman empire in the 2nd cent., mentions Boppard as the re-
sidence of the pmfectus militum balliatariorum, and stones found
in the neighbourhood indicate its once having been a station
of the 13th Legion. The wall of defence which encloses the
interior of the town in a rectangular form, though much dam-
aged, is evidently of Roman origin and is constructed of the
concrete building-material so frequently employed in those ages»
The outer and far more extensive wall belongs to the middle
ages. Boppard, like St. Goar and Bacharach, once boasted of
an establishment of the Templar knights, the traces of which
may be recognized in the fragments of walls with round>arched
windows, situated at the upper end of the town. Knights
Templar of Boppard are mentioned among the crusaders at
the siege of Ptolemais.

The Ffarrkirche, erected in the late Romanesque style, about
1200, is remarkable for its peculiar vaulted roof and the curious
construction of the supporting arches. The Carmeliterkircke
contains a good marble relief representing the Trinity, a
monument of a Countess von Eltz (d. 1500). The old mon-
astery of St. Martin and the adjacent Franciscan convent have
been converted by the Prussian Government into a Reformatory
for juvenile criminals.

Marienbergp, the large building which rises from the midst
of an orchard at the back of the town, was formerly a Benedictine
nunnery, but is now converted into a hydropathic establishments
Below Boppard, on the bank of the river, is situated the yiiihl-
body a private water-cure estab., the property of Dr. Heusner,
the government physician of the district. Average weekly
charge in both the above, for board, lodging, baths, and
medical attendance, 12 V^ Thlr.

The finest excursion from Boppard is to tlie *Fle«kertshfthe (1663 ft.)^
about 6 M. distant, and I'/aM. to tlie I. of tlie road leading to ttie Hunns-
riicken, wliich must be left at the fir-wood, soon after passing the mile-stone
marked '•0,84". The top is indicated by a stone pillar. The view is very
extensive, and comprises the Seven Mountains, the Eifel, the Hochwald,
Idar and Taumis. and Monrepos (p. 67). A small portion only of the Rhine
is visible near Ehrenthal (p. 96). On the 8.W. side, about V2 ^' fi'om the
top, refreshments may be procured at the Mermicher Hof. The iraveller may
avail himself of the diligence from Boppard to Simmern to reach the above-
mentioned fir-wood, where his path diverges to the 1. Pedestrians on their
route southwards may, instead of returning to Boppard, proceed to Weiler
and Hirzenach.

The road from Boppard to the Moselle (9 M.) leads throng
the village of BuchhoU (1^29 ft.), to which a guide (10 Sgr.) should be
taken. About l'/^ M. beyond Herscfiwiesen, a road to the 1. descends to
the Ehrenburg (p. 125); thence through the Ehrenburger Thai to Broden-
¥ach.

to St. Goar. BORNHOFEN. 24, Route. 95

Above Boppard , to the 1., is situated the village of Camp
{* Anker; Rheiniscker Hof), so called from the remains of an
intrencfament on the hill ascribed to the Romans, but more
probably dating from the 30 Years' war. (Path over the hills-
to Liebeneck and Braubach see p. 93). A shady road planted
with walnut-trees leads along the bank of the Rhine from.
Camp to the convent of

(1.) BomlLOfeii, with a Gothic church erected in 1435>.
which, even at the present day, is a favourite resort of pilgrims.
On a rocky eminence above the convent, and surrounded by
vineyards, stand the twin castles of

Sterrenberg and laebenstein ^ better known as '^the
Brothers," and connected with each other by a sharp chine
of rocks. Few are unacquainted with the legend of these
castles, which may thus be briefly told:

Conrad and Heinrich, the two sous of the noble knight Bayer vou Boppard^
the owner of Liebensteiu, were enamoured of their foster-sister, the beautiful
Hildegarde. Heinrich by an exercise of rare generosity tore himself away
and Joined the crusades, leaving his brother Conrad towin the prize of whicli
he too hastily deemed him worthy. That bis son and the fair bride might
still be near him, tlie old knight built the castle of Sterrenberg for their
receprion, but his death occurring before its completion the nuptials were
deferred for a year. During this period Conrad's heart grew cold towards^
Hildegarde, and hearing of the valiant deeds of his absent brother against'
the iniidels, his soul burned to share his honours, and wearied of an{iuactive
life, he joined the crusades. Hildegarde now passed her days in the lonely
castle of Liebensteiu, brooding over her sad lot, not doubting the affectioik
of Conrad, but weeping over the uncertainty of his return. Suddenly Conrad
returned to Sterrenberg with a lovely Grecian bride, and the outraged Hilde-
garde, stunned by the blow, shut herself up in the loneliest chamber of her
dreary abode, and refused to see any one but her attendant. Late one even-
ing a stranger knight demanded the hospitality of the castle; he proved to
be the chivalrous Heinrich, who, hearing of his brother's perfidious conduct,,
resolved to avenge his foster-sister's wrongs. He accordingly challenged
Conrad to single combat, but before the brothers' swords had crossed, Hilde-
garde's figure interposed between them and insisted on a reconciliation, to-
which they reluctantly consented. Hildegarde then retired to the convent
of Bornhofen, situated at the base of the rock on which the castles stand..
Conrad's Grecian bride soon proved faithless, and he, overcome with shame
and remorse, threw himself on his generous brother's breast, exclaiming that
no consolation was now left him bnt his friendship. Thus their estrangement
ended, and the brothers continued to live together in harmony and retire-
ment at Liebeustein, whilst Sterrenberg was for ever deserted.

The castle of Sterrenberg was held as early as the 12th cent.
as a fief of the empire by the knights of Boland, and after-
wards came into the possession of the Electors of Treves. The
date and cause of its abandonment are unknown. It lies on
the extreme verge of the rocky height, and is separated from
Liebenstein by a thick massive wall. The castles deserve
inspection on account of the grandeur and extent of their ruin»
and the view they command of the rocky ravines in the vicinity.

(r.) Salzig (so called from the weak saline spring which
it possesses) is situated in the midst -of a vast orchard, whence

96 ' Route 24, ST. GOAR. From Cohlenz

whole ship-loads of clierms are annually exported to the
Lower Rhine, Holland, and even to England. Farther up, on
a fertile promontory to the 1., lies the village of Nieder-
Kestert (Stem).

(r.) SLrzenach {Gomes) ; in the rear of the village are
« late-quarries ; the house on the summit of the hill, above the
village, is a quarrymen's tavern. The small new Gothic edifice
at the upper end of the village is a synagogue. The handsome
building which was once a deaner}', and the church, built
about 1170, formerly belonged to the Abbey of Siegburg.
(1.) Ehrenthal, a small village inhabited by the miners who
work in the lead-mines in the vicinity.

(1.) Welmich, a picturesquely situated village, with a small
Gothic church, is commanded by the ruined castle of Thurn"
herg or Deurenburg in the background. This stronghold,
commenced by the Archbishop Boemund of Treves, and com-
jileted by his successor Kuno von Falkenstein in 1363, was
derisively called the Mails (mouse) by the Counts of Katzen-
elnbogen, in contradistinction to their *'Cat," but Kuno enjoyed
such a reputation for courage that he was feared by cats and
mice alike. Here he died in 1388. The ascent is somewhat
fatiguing, but the pedestrian is well rewarded b) the fine view
from the summit, especially in the direction of St. Goar. The
interior of the castle is in a good state of preservation, and
contains a few points of interest to the architect.

(r.) St. Goax(Z^/te; Krone) owes its name and origin to a
chapel, founded in the time of Siegbert, king of Austrasia (570),
by St. Goar, who preached the gospel here, and was after-
wards revered as a saint and invoked by the boatmen when
in danger.

St. Goar was till 1794 the capital of the Hessian "Lower

Grafschaft" of Katzenelnbogen (comp. p. 97), and has a more

imposing appearance than any other Rhenish town of the

same size, for which it is principally indebted to the extensive

ruins of Rheinfels in the background. The Protestant church,

built about 1468, contains, among other monuments, that of

the Landgrave Philipp (d. 1583) and his countess in marble.

A flaw in the altar is said to have been made by Gustavus

Adolphus in 1632, who, indignant at the damage done to the

church by the Spaniards, violently struck the altar with his

sword. The crypt on the E. side once contained the bones

of St. Goar. — The Roman Cath. church is adorned with an

old stone effigy of the saint with an inscription.

▲ curious old custom prevailed here till the commencement of the steam-
boat traffic in 1827. It is said to have dated from the time of Charlemagne,
and -was called the "ffdnseln,'* or Initiation. Every traveller \?ho visited
the town for the first time was conducted to a ring attached to the wall of

to St. Goar, ST. GOARSHAUSEN. 24, Route. 97

the Custom-house, to which he was secured. He was then obliged to submit
to the water or the wine-ordeal. If the former was selected, the luckless
traveller had to submit to a good ducking; the more agreeable alternative
consisted iu drinking a goblet of wine to the health of Charlemagne, the
sovereign of England, the reigning prince, and the members of society who
enforced obedience to the ancient custom. The traveller was then crowned
and invested with the rights of a citizen and member of the society. The
ciown and the goblet, together with the book in which the names of the
travellers were inscribed, are now in the possession of the landlord of
the "Lilie."

Rheinfels, the Ehrenbreitstein of the middle ages, rises
at the back .of the town to the height of 368 ft. above the
Rhine, and is incomparably the handsomest and most imposing
ruin on the whole river. It was founded in 1245 hy Count
Dethier III. of Katzenelnbogen, the friend of the Emperor
Frederick II., and a new Rhine-toll was here established.
Ten years later a confederation of 26 Rhenish towns, dissatis-
fied with the newly imposed burden, attacked the castle, but
after a fruitless siege of 15 months they were compelled to
withdraw their forces. Under the Hessian Landgrave Philipp
it was considerably strengthened in 1568, and in 1692 it was
bravely and successfully defended by the Hessian General von
Gortz against the French General Count Tallard with an army
of 24,000 men. In 1758 the garrison was surprised and the
castle taken by the French, who kept it garrisoned till 1763.
Thirty years later, notwithstanding the great strength of the
place, the Hessian commander basely deserted it, and the castle,
with its valuable stores of ammunition and provisions, fell into
the hands of the French revolutionary army, Nov. 2nd, 1794.
Three years later it was blown up and sold for the insigni-
ficant sum of 60/. The ruin now belongs to the king of
Prussia. The interior contains little worthy of note; view
from the summit limited. The custodian lives in St. Goar,
but is generally at or near the castle (fee 5 Sgr.).

(I.) St. GoarBhausen {Adlevy R. 36, B. 20, D. 48, S. 30,
A. 18 kr., beer, and baths in the Rhine; Rhein. Hof) may
be advantageously selected as head-quarters for excursions
to the Swiss valley, Lurlei, Reichenberg, Oberwesel, Caub,
Bacharach, &c., and ofi^ers many attractions to the traveller in
search of repose. The upper part of the town consists of a
neat row of houses, most of them new, and built close to the
river, from the inundations of which they are protected by
a dyke. The ferry to St. Goar is at the upper end of the
place; charge for 1 pers. 2^/^ Sgr., for several together
1 Sgr. each.

(1.) The castle oi Neu- Katzenelnbogen, commonly called the
Xatz (cat), which rises behind St. Goarshausen, was erected
by Count Johann of Katzenelnbogen in 1393, and when the

B'ABDBKBR's Rhine. 7

98 Route 25. LURLEI. From St, Goar

family became extinct in 1470, came into the possession of

the Princes of Hessen, and was occupied by a Hessian garrison

till 1806, when it fell into the hands of the French, to whom^

like so many of the Rhenish castles, it is indebted for its

destruction. (Guide with the keys from St. Goarshausen, 18 kr.>

On the brink of the rayine at the back of the castle lies (r.) the village
of Pateriberg , 1% H. beyond which, and 3 M. from St. Goarsfiausen , are-
situated the handsome ruins of the castle of Beiohenberg, erected in 1280 by
Count Wilhelm I. of Katsenelnbogen, and afterwards, during the Hessian
dominion, the seat of the governor of the district. Since 1818 it has been a
ruin, but is iii a better state of preservation than most of the Rhenish castles..
The portal with its granite pillars in the castle-yard has a Moorish look, and
the interior with its lofty columns and pointed vaulted roof is picturesque
and striking. The road to Reichenberg leads through the Haselbach Valley
(Brewery >, the mouth of which is immediately below St. Goarshausen, where-
a carriage may be procured for the excursion. Pedestrians may make a
beautiful round by ascending through the *Stous Valley at the back of the
town, a rocky and well-wooded ravine, V/^M. in length, to Patersberg, thence
to Reichenberg, and back to St. Goarshausen by the road through the Hasel-
bach valley. Those who wish to ascend the Lurlei, must take the "Pro-
menadenpfad" for foot-passengers leading to the top of the hill, the last part,
of the way through wood, a few hundred paces beyond which is a signpost
indicating the way to the Hiihnerberg, a pavilion commanding a fine view of
St. Goar and St. Goarshausen. From this point the road to the Lurlei leads-
towards a group of bushes, where it finally diverges to the r. From the
Lurlei a path leads down to the Rhine.

26. The Bhine from St. Goar to Bingen.

Comp. Map R, 24.

Distances from St. Goar to Oberwesel ^y, M., Caub 3 M., Bacharacfi
IVa M., Rheindiebach 1% M., Lorch (Niederheimbach) '/^ M. , Rheinsteiu
3V4 M., Bingen 3 M.; total distance from St. Goar to Biugen 18 M. — By
steamboat (preferable on account of the beauty of the scenery) in 2'/, hrs..
(down in IV4 hr.); piers at St. Goar and Bingen, small-boat stations at
St. Goarshausen, Oberwesel, Caub, Bacharach, Lorch and Niederheimbach »
By railway on the left bank from St. Goar to Bingen, on the right bank
from St. Goarshausen to Rudesheim, in 1 hr.

From Niederlahnstein to Bingen the r. bank of the river belongs to the
Duchy of Nassau, the 1. to Prussia.

Immediately above St. Goar, and nearly in the middle of
the stream, is situated the **Bank," a sunken ledge of rocks
running out from the bank to the r., and causing a species-
of whirlpool {Gewirre) which not unfrequently proves destructive
to the rafts if not skilfully managed. Even those of consi-
derable size are often partially submerged when passing thi&
spot, being drawn down by the undercurrents.

To the 1. rise the rugged and imposing rocks of the IiUrleL
420 ft. above the Rhine. On the N. side of the precipice a
steep path, furnished with benches at intervals, leads to the
summit. The ascent may be accomplished in about 25 min *
view limited. The well-known legend of the siren who had^
her dwelling on the top of the rock, and, like other sirens of
old, enticed the sailors and fishermen to their destruction in

to Bingen, OBERWESEL. 25. Route, 99

the rapids at thfi foot of the precipice, has been a theme for
the poet and painter in all ages. The famous echo is not
audible on the deck of the steamer; the pedestrian alone can
av^aken it successfully. The sharp angle formed by the Lurlei
is penetrated by a railway tunnel.

To this rocky basin the salmon-fishery of St. Goar is
principally confined. The cool, shady depths and sandy bottom
of the river at this point appear to be peculiarly suited to the
habits of the fish. It is tantalizing to the angler to know that
they are only captured in nets, thrown from boats of peculiar
construction, and the epicure may hear with emotion that the
yield which formerly amounted to 8000 lbs. per annum is now
diminished by the increase in steamboat traffic to 1000 lbs.
It is of course in great demand, and frequently realizes a price
of Zs. per pound. The river is here narrower and deeper
(72 ft.) than at any other part.

In the bed of the river opposite to the Rossstein, a rocky
point to the 1., penetrated by a railway tunnel, a ridge of
rocks is visible when the water is low, known by the name
of the ^'- Seven Fir gins J' As hardly a rock or ruin exists
without its legend, so it is said that these rugged masses were
once seven fair maidens, condemned by the river-god for their
fickleness to this dreadful metamorphosis.

(r.) Oberwesel {* Goldener F/ropfenzieker, at the lower end
of the town, R. and B. 16 Sgr. ; the sign-board, now in the
co£fee>room, was painted by the well-known Dusseldorf painter
Schrodter in commemoration of the frequent visits of Dussel-
dorf artists to this place; Trierachtr Hof; Rheinischer Ilof, on
the river). Oberwesel, the Vosavia of the Romans, was once
a town of the empire, but was made over by Henry VII. to
his brother, the Archbishop Balduin of Treves. To the S. of
the town rises the conspicuous *Frauenkirche (Church of our
Lady), a fine specimen of Gothic architecture erected at the
beginning of the I5th cent. The rood-loft {lectariumj which
separates the choir from the nave deserves particular inspection.
The ancient wood-carvings of the high-altar, contemporary
with the date of the foundation, and two pictures said to have
been painted in 1504, are also objects of interest. One forms
an altar-piece in the N. chapel, the lower portion representing
the landing of the 11,000 virgins (see St. Ursula Church at
Cologne); the other on the N. wall represents the Last
Judgment in a series of small pictures. The N. chapel contains
monuments of several knights and counts of Schonberg. —
The old gate-way (''Esehtkurm") in the field near the church
was formerly the town-gate.

The Chapel on the town wall, on the side next to the

100 Route 25. CAUB. From St Goar

Rhine, commemorates the alleged murder of the boy Werner
by the Jews in 1286. According to the legend, his body was
flung into the river, and miraculously floated up the stream
to Bacharach where it was canonized (p. 101).

Oberwesel is one of the most beautiful spots on the Rhine.
The rocky ravines which intersect the mountains in the vicinity,
are favourite subjects for the pencil of the artist; they also yield
excellent wines, the most esteemed of which is produced in the
Engeholle valley, and is the best in the Prussian dominions.

Above Oberwesel rise the picturesque ruins of (r.) SchOn-
burg, the cradle of a once mighty race. It was the birth-place
(1615) of the Count Frederick Hermann of Schonberg, better
•known as Marshal Schomberg, who fought under the Prince
of Orange, and in 1668, when in the French service, compelled
the Spaniards to acknowledge the House of Braganza. In 1668,
on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, he was obliged to
quit the French service, after which he became minister of
state under the Elector of Brandenburg, governor of Prussia,
and finally passed over to England with the Prince of Orange,
and fell in the memorable battle of the Boyne, in 1690. His
remains are interred in Westminster Abbev. In the 30 Years'
war the castle fell into the hands of the Swedes, and in 1689
was demolished by the French. The family became extinct
in 1713, and the ruin now belongs to Prince Albrecht of Prussia.

The small town of (1.) Caub {* Grunewald ; Nassauer Hof)
is a place of some importance on account of its productive
subterranean slate-quarries, which are efficiently worked under
the inspection of the Government of Nassau.

The stately castle of Outenfels, on a height in the back-
ground was, with the town itself, sold by the knights of Falken-
stein to the Palatinate^ Here the English Earl of Cornwall,
who was elected emperor of Germany in 1257, fell in love
with the beautiful countess Beatrix of Falkenstein, whom he
afterwards married, on the death of his first wife in 1269.
In 1504 the castle was fruitlessly besieged during 6 weeks by
the Landgrave William of Hess en, a fact recorded in rhyme
on a stone tablet in the wall near the Rhine custom-house.
In 1804 the castle became the property of Nassau, in 1805 it
wras dismantled by order of Napoleon, and in 1807 was finally
abandoned to decay. The schoolmaster Miiller at Caub has
the keys. A still more extensive view than that afforded by
the castle is obtained from the pavilion on the Adolphshohe,
15 min. to the S. of Caub.

Above Caub appears the *PfiEklz, or Pfalzgrafenstein, rising
from the middle of the Rhine, reminding the traveller of the
castle of Chillon on the lake of Geneva, and likened by some

to Bingen. BACHARACH. 25, Route, 101

to a stone ship for ever at anchor on the Rhine. It is a small
hexagonal building, standing on a ridge of rock, and was
erected by the Emperor Lndwig the Bavarian at the commence-
ment of the 13th cent., as a convenient tollhouse for way-
laying and exacting tribute from the passing vessels. The
entrance is on the E. side through a portcullis, several feet
above the rock; the S. corner bears the Lion of the Palatinate.
The well in the narrow courtyard, which is surrounded by a
sort of vaulted cloister, is sunk to a much greater depth than
the bed of the Rhine,

In 1194 the Emperor Henry VI. -wished to roarry the daughter of the
Count Palatine Conrad ta one of his friends or relations, but the young
princess had already gained the affections of Henry of Brunsvrick. The
father dreading the Emperor's wrath, would not consent to the alliance, but
caused a tower to be built in the middle of the river below Bacharach, where
he kept his daughter a close prisoner. Her mother, however, secretly aided
the Prince of Brunswick in gaining admittance to the tower, where his union
-with the princess was privately solemnized. When the princess was about
to give birth to a child, her mother disclosed the whole affair to her husband
the Count, -who, finding his opposition no longer availing, in the exercise of
his capricious authority, passed a law that all future Countesses Palatine should
repair to the Castle to await their accouchements. Such is the ancient and
improbable tradition connected with the Pfalz, whence it also derives its name.

Here on New Year's night, 1814, the 1st Prussian army-
corps under York, and a division of Russian troops under
Langeron, effected the passage of the Rhine. At the same
place a body of Pnissian troops crossed the river in 1793 on
their way to France.

(r.) Bacharach {Post), called Ara Bacchi in the middle
ages, was celebrated in early times for its -wine, and was up
to the 16th cent, one of the greatest wine marts of the Rhine.
Pope Pius TI., better known as iEneas Silvias, caused a cask
of the wine of Bacharach to be annually brought to Rome,
and the town of Nurnberg obtained its freedom in return for
a yearly tribute of 4 tuns to the Emperor Wenzel. To this
day a vessel laden with the wine of Bacharach is annually
dispatched to the fair of Frankfurt.

On a slight eminence (accessible by a path on the S. side of
the church of St. Peter) stands the ruined Church of St. Werner^
erected about 1428 in the most beautiful and elaborate Gothic
style, and in the form of a trefoil; it commemorates the
canonization of the boy Werner, who, according to a tradition,
was barbarously murdered by the Jews. Behind it (10 min.
walk) rises the castle of Stahleck (see p. 102).

The Church of St. Peter, or so-called Templar's Church, is
built in the late Romanesque style, and is distinguished by
the symmetry of its proportions. A tower of the ancient
House of the Templars is still to be seen in the yard of the
post-house.

102 Boute 25, FCRSTENBERG. From St, Goar

In the adjacent valley of Steeg are situated the ruins of the old castle
of Stahlbergi The valley in latter times has received the appellation of
^^Blucherthat,** from having been in 1814 the scene of a skirmish between a
body of French soldiers and the troops of Bliicher.

From Baoharaoh by Stromberff to Kreuinaoh. Pedestrians ascending the
Rhine vrho are already acquainted with this part of the river may vary their
route very agreeably by taking .the following walk (TVa hrs.) over the hills.
From Bacharach to the Rheinboller Foundry 9 M., to Stromberg 6 M., and
to Kreuznach TVs M. The last stage being the least interesting the traveller
may prefer to take a carriage from Stromberg to Kreuznach (1 Thlr.)« The
route is as follows, guide unnecessary: from Bacharach through the valley of
Steeg (Bliicherthal, s. above) to Steeg (1 M.). At the tower (VsM.) with the small
pond the road ascending to the 1. must be taken. On the table-land (2V<2M.)
the road leads in a straight direction, bearing to the 1. ; % M. farther a wood
is entered, on emerging from which (% M.) the road descends to the 1. to
the village of Rheinbollen (2 M.), with conspicuous cbnrch-spire. The road
next leads through plantations to the Rheinboller Iron-works (*Inn), V/^M..
beyond the village. The narrow and wooded ravine of the Quldenbach is now
traversed, on the r. slope of which is situated the modern castle of Carli •
hurgy and, farther on, Xha Sahler Foundry, Before entering Stromberg
(Fu9tenburg)j the castle of Golden/els is seen rising on an eminence to the r. ;
beyond Stromberg the extensive ruins of Fastenburg. Schweppenhauien
I'/jM'i AQd Windeaheim IVs M., are the two following villages. Where the
road begins to descend into the valley of the Nahe, IViM. from Kreuznach,
a fine distant view is obtained. (Diligence from Bacharach to Kheinbollen
twice daily in 2 hrs., fare lOy, Sgr.)

Above Bacharach rise the ruins of the once strongly fortified
castle of Stahleck, the cradle of the Counts Palatine, and
till 1823 their principal residence. The French besieged and
took the castle and town eight times in the years 1620 — 40,
and finally destroyed the castle in 1689. The extensive ruins
now belong to the Dowager Queen of Prussia, a descendant
of the Counts Palatine. View fine but limited.

On a rocky eminence to the r. rise the handsome ruins of
Ftbrstenberg, made over to the Palatinate in 1243 as a fief
of the city of Cologne. " In 1292, when Adolph of Nassau was
on his way to his coronation at Aix-laChapelle, so bold were
the vassals of the robber-knight of the castle, that they demanded
the usual toll of the emperor, and on its refusal, fired into
the vessel. It was taken in 1321 by the Emperor Lewis from
his opponent Frederick, and presented to his consort Margaret
of Holland. In 1632 it fell into the hands of the Swedes,
and in 1689 was destroyed by the French. Since 1847 it has
been the property of the Princess Frederick of the Netherlands,
sister of the King of Prussia. The brook which falls into
the Rhine at the foot of the castle was in ancient times the
boundary between the dominions of the archbishops of Mayence
and Treves.

(1.) The village of Lorchhauseii.

Through the Witperthal to Scklangenbad and Schwatbach, a beautiful
walk of 21 M. ; from Lorch to the Kammerberger Muhle 6 M., the Lauken~
muhle 21/4 M., Gerolditein 2V4 M., Niedergladbach 3 M., Hansen 3 If.,
Scklangenbad 3 H.; or from Geroldstein by Langensei/en to Scbioalbach

loy. M.

to Bingen. LORCH. 25, Route. 103

In the valley of the Sauer, which unites with the Wis per, y^ M. above
LoTch, is situated the Sauerburg, 4'.4 M. from Lorch or Caub, one of the
strongholds of Sickingen, destroyed by the French in 1689. In the neighbouring
farm-house the last of the Counts of Sickingen, descending in direct line from
the celebrated Knight of this name, died in 1836 in the most abject poverty.

(1.) The small town of Loidx {*Schwany at the upper end
of the place, R. 48 kr., B. 24 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl., wine, and
cuisine good, pension 2% fl. per diem; Rhein. Hof)<, the
Laureacum (?) of the Romans, mentioned in an old document
as early as 832, was formerly the residence of a number of
knights who founded a peculiar institution for the education
of their sons, which was known under the name of '^Schul-
junkerschaft," and thither the scions of the Rhenish nobility
were sent to be trained. The lofty and handsome Church
belongs to the 12th cent., and possesses the finest bells in
this district, which formerly was considered to belong to the
Rheingau. The old carved wooden altar, a flue font of 1464, several
monuments of knightly families of the Rheingau, especially
that of Joh. Hilchen, the companion in arms of Sickingen, are
worthy of inspection. The inscription on the latter records that
Hilchen distinguished himself against the Turks, and, as field-
marshal in 1542 — 44, against the French. His house, decorated
with carved stone-work in front, erected in 1546, is the most
conspicuous building in the village.

Above Lorch rises a rugged cliff called the Kedrichy or
^'•Devil's Ladder,^' which one of the knights of Lorch is said
to have scaled with the assistance of the mountain sprights,
and thus to have gained the hand of his lady-love. Opposite
to it, on the r. bank of the Wiaper, which here falls into the
Rhine, stands the mined castle of Nollicht or Nollingen,
rising 565 ft. above the Rhine.

The long village of (r.) Niederheixubach with the ruined
castle of Hohneck or Heimburg next comes in view. This
is the best station to disembark at for travellers ascending
the river and intending to visit Rheinstein (3 M.), Assmanns-
hausen and the Niederwald (comp. p. 107). Extensive retro-
spective view as far as Bacharach.

The valley of the Rhine now becomes somewhat narrower.
To the r. rises the slender tower of Sooneck, commanding
the entrance of a mountain ravine. The castle, built by
Archbishop Willigis of Mayence about the year 1015, was
•dismantled by the Emperor Rudolph as a robbers' stronghold,
und again restored in the 14th cent The ruin now belongs
to the Prussian Royal family, and has been partially restored.

(r.) Trechtingshausen {Stern). On an eminence beyond
the village rise the ruins of Reichenstein, more commonly called
PaUtenburg, destroyed by the French in 1689. In 1252 this

104 noute 25. ASSMANNSHAUSEN.

robbers' castle was dismantled by the Rhenish Confederation,
but was restored in 1261 by its owner, Philipp von Hohenfels,
who recommenced his lawless calling of a freebooter. The
Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg afterwards besieged and dis-
mantled this stronghold, as well as many others^ and relent-
lessly consigned to the gallows the tribe of robbers of high
and low degree, whom he found in possession of them* At
the foot of the hill is the entrance to the * Morgenbachthal,
which for a short distance (lYj M.) is one of the most
romantic side-valleys of the Rhfne.

At (1.) Assmannshausexi {Anker; Krone), celebrated for
its red wine, the river makes a bend. At the mouth of a
ravine below the village the much esteemed Bodenthaler wine
is produced. In the vicinity traces of Roman baths have been
discovered. Path to the Niederwald see p. 107.

On the bank opposite to Assmannshausen, rise the towers
and pinnacles of Hheinstein, 250 ft. above the Rhine. Its
origin is unknown, but it is mentioned as early as 1279, and
was subsequently to 1348 frequently a residence of the arch-
bishop Kuno von Falkenstein. After this date we hear
nothing more of the name. In 1825 — 29 Prince Frederick of
Prussia caused the castle to be completely rebuilt on a new
plan; his remains (d. 1863) are interred in the chapel on the
S. side. The * Collection of old armour, objects of art, and
stained glass, is open to the public (fee 1^/^ Sgr. for 1 pers.,
15 — 20 Sgr. for 4 pers.). The view from the castle, as well
as that from the Swiss house, to which the public are not
admitted, is limited.

In the vicinity of the castle stands the ClemenskirGhe^
the origin of which is also unknown. It is indebted for its
complete restoration to the Princess Frederick of Prussia.

Shortly after leaving Assmannshausen the steamboat reaches
the Bingerloch, a rapid caused by the narrowness of the
rocky channel, the widening of which has been the work of
ages, from the Roman period till the years 1830 — 32, when
the last blasting operations took place. A monument, erected
in 1832, on the roadside on the 1. bank, records the fact that
the passage was made ten times wider than before by the
Prussian government in the reign of Fred. William III. The
ascent of the rapid is still attended with considerable difficulty
in the case of heavily laden vessels, but in the descent the
only craft liable to danger are the large rafts, the navigation
of which requires extreme caution.

Above the rapids rises the tower of (1.) Ehrenfels, erected!
about the year 1210 by Philipp von Bolanden, a governor of
the Rheingau, the frequent residence of the archbishops of

RHElWSrEIN

BINGEN. 26, Route, 105

Mayence in the 15th cent., much damaged by the Swedes in 1635,
and finally dismantled by the French in 1689. The steep slopes
of the Rudesheimer Berg yield the well-known wine of that
name, and terrace rises above terrace to secure the soil from
falling. The entire hill is covered with walls and arches, the
careful preservation of which may serve to give an idea of
the value of the vines. According to an old tradition Charle-
magne is said to have observed from his palace at Ingelheim
that the snow always melted first on the Rudesheimer Berg,
and that he therefore caused vine-plants to be brought from
Orleans and re-planted here.

Opposite to the castle, on a quartz-rock in the middle of
the Rhine, is situated the Mouse-tower, which derives its
name from the well-known legend of the cruel Archbishop
Hatto of Mayence; at the expense of the story, however, it
must be confessed that in all probability the real name wa&
Mauth'Thurmy or Tower of Customs, and that it was erected
in the middle ages by some of the robber-knights of the Rhine.
The ruins have been recently covered with stucco and converted
into a watch-tower, whence' signals are made to vessels
descending the river, which are required to slacken their
speed when vessels are proceeding in the contrary direction
through the Binger Loch.

The valley of the Rhine now suddenly expands, and the
Rheingau, a district which was once in all probability a lake,
is entered. Immediately below (r.) Bingen the Nahe unites
with the Rhine. Bridges over the Nahe, and stations of the
Rhenish and Rhine-Nahe lines, see p. 109.

26. Bingen.

Hotels ou the Rhine: Victoria Hotel, White horse, charges ia
both: R. 1 11., L. 18 kr., B. 30 kr., D. 1 fl. 12 kr., A. 18 kr.j *Bellevue
more moderate; Englischer Hof and Deutsches Haus on the Rhine.

Eestamrants. So h err, in the Market-place. Beer at the Ehrenfels-
on the Rhine , adjacent to the Bellevue.

Sailway to Mayence and Cologne see R. 36, to Saarbrilcken see R. 28,.
(from Rudesheim) to Wiesbaden or to Oberlahnstein see R. 23.

Bingen (pop. 5612) was known as early as the Romaik
period. The rebellious Treviri fought here against the legions
of Cerialis in the reign of Vespasian. Tacitus (Hist. IV, 70)
relates that Tutor, the chief of the Treviri, retired from Mayence
to Bingen, where he crossed the Nahe and destroyed the bridge,
but the cohorts of Sextilius pursuing him and discovering a ford
over the Nahe, crossed the river, attacked and defeated him.

Bingen was also a point from which two Roman military
roads led to Cologne and Treves, and was protected by a fort
which probably stood on the site now occupied by the castl©

106 Route 26. BINGEN.

of *Klopp, destroyed by the French in 1689. The entrance
to the castle, which stands in private grounds, is at the back
of the White Horse Hotel ; the gardens, to which strangers are
admitted (fee 12 kr.), command a pleasing prospect on all sides.

The seven-arched Bridge over the Nuke was constructed
by Archbishop Willigis on the foundations of the old Roman
bridge; it was afterwards partially destroyed, but again restored.
The Nahe here forms the boundary between the dominions
of Hessen-Darmstadt and Prussia.

The Gothic Pfarrkirche, or Parish Church, dates from the
15th cent., and contains an ancient font erroneously conjectured
to belong to the Carlovingian period. The Town Hall was
restored in 1863 in the mediasval style.

The * Rondel, about ly, M. on the road from Bingen to
the Hunnsriicken, which diverges from the Coblenz road soon
after the bridge is crossed, commands a beautiful prospect in
three directions, even surpassing that from the Rochusberg,
as Bingen itself and the castle of Klopp form a beautiful
foreground to the picture. Instead of crossing the bridge and
following the road the whole way, the pedestrian may cross the
Nahe near the church; after passing a country-house and the
old custom-house buildings, he will reach the road to the Hunns-
riicken leading to the Rondel, a spot planted with trees and
easily recognizable from a considerable distance. Near it is
the Elisenhohe, another fine point of view, 400 ft. abore the
Rhine. .

The finest points, however, and the most frequented in the
neighbourhood, are the Rockuscapelle (E.) and the Scharlaeh-
kopf (S.E.), each Yj hr. walk from the town. The carriage
road to the former, which cannot be missed, leaves the street
at the back of the Englische Hof , and after 100 yds. ascends
to the 1., leading past the cemetery.

The *Rochuscapelle, or Chapel of St. Roch, situated on
an eminence 860 ft. above the Rhine, founded in 1666 at the
time of the plague, destroyed in 1795, and restored in 1814,
commands a noble prospect of the entire Rheingau. The
interior of the chapel contains a picture representing St. Roch
leaving his dismantled palace, painted in commemoration of
the restoration of the sacred edifice, and presented by Goethe
and others. At the festival of St. Roch (first Sunday after
Aug. 16th), admirably described by Goethe, thousands of
persons congregate here, and celebrate certain ecclesiastical
solemnities, to which the jovial ringing of glasses and open-air
dances form a somewhat incongruous accompaniment. The
chapel is generally opened in summer at 7 p.m. Near the E.
entrance a stone pulpit has been erected for open-air sermons.

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NIEDERWALD. 27, Route. 107

From the Rochusoapelle a carriage road leads over the hill
on the same level to the * Scharlachkopf , about IV2M. to
the S.W. The view is very fine, and quite different from that
afforded by the chapel; it commands the valley of the Nahe
and the populous Palatinate, dotted with numerous villages,
and bounded by the Donnersberg. The Rhine is only visible
from the influx of the Nahe to the Mouse tower. A shady
road through a fragrant grove leads from here along the
N.W. side of the hill, and brings the pedestrian in about
25 min. to the road to the chapel : in 10 min. more he will
reach the town.

27. The Niederwald.

Tarifi of Budetheini and Atnnannahausen. Donkey with guide from
Rudesheim to the Temple on the Niederwald (or from Assmannsbausen to
the castle) 48 kr. ; to all the points of view, the castle and Assmannsbausen
(or vice versa from Assmannsbausen to Rudesheim) 1 fl. 24 kr. Guide alone
at half the above charges. Horse vrith guide 12—24 kr. more. Two-
horse carriage to the Niederwald and castle 3'/% fl., including Assmanns-
liausen, 4'/2^'i the same excursion, including the Jobannisberg, 6'/s A- —
Boats from Rudesheim to Rheinstein, waiting 2 brs. at the castle, and
returning to Assmannsbausen, 1 fl. 54 kr. ; to Assmannsbausen alone 1 fl. 6 kr. ;
the number of persons is not limited, the boatman mast take as many as his
boat will accommodate without additional charge. — Ferry from Rtidesheim
to Bingen for 1 — 3 pers. 12 kr., for each additional pers. 4 kr. more; from
Assmannsbausen to Rheinstein for 1—3 pers. 15 kr., for each additional
pers. 5 kr. more. The wealthier inhabitants of the place, however, generally
pay the boatmen so that they always receive at least 30 Icr. for each passage.
8team ferry-boat between the stations of Rudesheim and Bingerbriick ; fares
2 or 1 8gT.

Bingen boatmen's tariff. From Bingen to Assmannshausen 1 — 6 pers.
1 fl. 10 kr., Rheinstein 1 fl. 30. kr., Rheinstein and Assmannshausen 1 fl. 48 kr.,
for each additional pers. 6 kr. ; return fare one-half more. The boatmen
must be provided with numbered badges, and there must always be two in
each boat; want of respect towards the passengers, or attempts to overcharge
are severely punished.

Plan. By water Arom Rudesheim or Biogen to Rheinstein, where the
boat must await the traveller's return from the castle; thence to Assmanns-
hausen, the walk from which over the Niederwald to Rudesheim may easily
tie accomplished in 27^ hrs. Guide perfectly unnecessary. The patti
ascending to the Schloss cannot be missed, the only place where a difficulty
may arise is between the Schloss and the temple, but one of the boys at the
former will readily show the path for a few kreuzers. Riders are advised
to take their doukeys or horses only as far as the Bchloss, where they
should be immediately dismissed, as the descent may be accomplished with
the greatest ease by the most ordinary walker. [From Bingen to Rheinstein
on foot (ferry across the Nahe at the church) is about 3 M.J

The Niederwald is a wooded height, the S. slopes of
which are covered with vineyards rising abruptly from the
Rhine, and is one of the most favorite points of view on the
Rhine. The ascent is generally made (after Rheinstein has
been visited) from Assmannshausen, where the road enters
a valley, on the S. slopes of which the celebrated Assmanns-
hauser red wine is produced. A gradual ascent of Va ^^- will

108 Route 27. NIEDERWALD.

bring the pedestrian to Aulhatisen (near it the former nunnery
of Marienhausenj now employed as farm-buildings). -At the
village church the path leaves the road through the valley,
and in 20 min. more the Jag^chloss (hunting-castle) is
reached, which, with the whole of the Niederwald, belongs to
the Duke of Nassau {* Restaurantf wines good, also R. 48 kr). —
A nearer path leads from Assmannshausen, ascending rapidly
to the r. by the figure of a saint (3 min.), in 35 min. to the
Jagdschloss.

From the Jagdschloss the traveller takes a boy (6 — 12 kr.)r
to open the Zauberhohle and Rossel. The ^^Zauberhohle" (magic
cave), 72 M. to the S.W. of the Schloss,. is a short dark
passage, at the extremity of which is a semi-circular chamber
with three windows, commanding views, through cuttings in
the wood, of the Clemenscapelle and Falkenburg, the castle
of Rheinstein and the Swiss house. Five min. walk farther
in the same direction is the * Rossel (759 ft. above the river),
an artificial ruin, built on the highest point of the Nieder-
wald, commanding a beautiful and extensive prospect; to the
W. the valley of the Nahe with the Donnersberg and the
Soonwald in the background; to the r. the wooded heights
of the Hunnsruck. Far below the Rhine is seen rushing past
the ruin of Ehrenfels through the Bingerloch by the Mouse
Tower. On the opposite bank lies Bingen with the castle of
Klopp, sheltered by the wooded and vine-clad Rochusberg.
In the valley of the Nahe are seen numerous villages, and
Kreuznach in the distance. Below the mouth of the Nahe
is Rheinstein, with the Swiss house; beneath the latter the
Clemenskirche surrounded by trees, and beyond it the Falken-
burg. From the Rossel to Rudesheim is a walk of 1 y^ hr.

From the Rossel the path leads in a S.E. direction to the
(2 min.) Adolphshoke, exactly opposite the influx of the Nahe,
the Hermitage (10 min.) and a stone seat (5 min.) where the
path to the r. must be taken, which in 10 min. more leads
to the * Temple (628 ft. above the Rhine), an open circular
building, supported by pillars, situated on the brow of the hill,
and commanding a new and magnificent view, including the
entire Rheingau, bounded on the S.E. by the Taunus mountain?,
on the S. by the Melibocus, and on the W. by the distant
Donnersberg.

From this point the road proceeds to the 1., reaching a
signpost (5 min.), where the path to the 1. must be taken,
which will bring the traveller to Rudesheim in Ya hr. The
track to the r. is a steep and stony path for pedestrians only,
and descends through the vineyards, but is little shorter than
the other; during the vinttige, commencing about the end of

BINGERBRUCK. 28, Route. 109

August, this path is closed. Distance from Rudesheim to the
Temple 45 min.; thence to the Jagdschloss 40 min.; down to
Assmannshausen by Aulhausen 40 min.

28. From Bingen to SaarbrUcken.

Comp, Map R. 24.

Diatance 94 M. By the Rhine-Nahe line to Neunkirchen (p. 197) in
Sy^ hrs. ; from Neunkirchen (by the Prussian Saarbriicken line) to Saarbriicken
ju V, hr.; fares from Bingerbriick to Saarbriicken: 4 Thlr. 4, S Thlr. 26,
1 Thlr. 26 Sgr. — The terminus station is at Bingerbriick on the 1. bank of
the Nahe, close to the station of the Rhenish railway, about 2 M. from
Bingen. Tickets may also be procured at the Bingen station. Steam ferry-
boat between Bingerbriick and Riidesheim.

The finest points on this route are the tract between Kreuznach and
Norheim, and the environs of Oberttein. The most remarkable part of the
line in an engineering point of view is between Fitchbach and Birken/eld^
where there are 10 tunnels and 20 bridges over the Nahe. The rocks through
which the cuttings are made consist chiefly of porphyry and dark red melaphyr,
many of which are very precipitous and most grotesquely shaped.

The line commences at Bingerbrtick on the 1. bank of
the Nahe and passes the foot of the Hunnsriicken mountains,
traversing vineyards and a fertile tract of country, passing the
old tower of Trutzbingen, erected in 1494 by a prefect of
Kreuznach, and several small stations, the most important of
"whitjh is Langenlonsheim ( IVeisses Ross).

Kreuznach and environs, s. R. 29.

After leaving the station the train crosses the Nahe, winds
round the E. side of the town, passing the saline spring of
Carlshallef on the r., the jagged porphyry precipice of the
Gans, and, on the 1. bank, the buildings of the mineral spring
of Tkeodorshalle. Near the bridge, which crosses to the 1. bank
of the river, rises, on the 1., almost perpendiculaily the rugged
cliff of the Rheingrafenstein (comp. R. 29).

Beyond the station of Munster am Stein the line passes
through a deep cutting, on emerging from which the Rhein-
grafenstein is again visible on the 1., and, separated from it by
the Alsenz, which here falls into the Nahe, the rains of ^Ebern-
burg (p. 113), now converted into an inn.

Immediately afterwards the train passes between the Nahe
and the jagged and precipitous cliffs of Rothenfeh (900 ft), the
best view of which may be had from the train by looking
back on the 1. side, after passing through two long tunnels,
and before reaching the village oi Norheim.

The line now follows the picturesque windings of the valley,
passing the villages of Niederhausen on the r., and Oberhausen
on the 1., and a steep rock rising on the r., surmounted by
the ruins of Bockelheim, in which the Emperor Henry IV. was
kept a prisoner by his son Henry* V. in December, 1105, in

110 Route 28, KIRN. From Bingen

order to compel him to give up the imperial treasures, kept
in the castle of Hammerstein at Andernaeh on the Khine.
The village of Waldbockelheim lies in a side valley, about

2 M. from the station of that name.

Half an hour's walk from Waldbockelheim are situated the castle and
abbey of Sponheim, the seat of one of the oldest families of the Rhenish
noblesse. The chnrch bnilt in the Romanesque style is an object of interest
for lovers of art.

On emerging from the tunnel beyond Boos (r.), the traveller
will observe on the I. the considerable ruins of '"Dissiboden-
berg^, a monastery founded by the Irish bishop Dissibodus
(d. 560), the first propagator of Christianity in this district.
It was abandoned to decay in 1560, and is now converted
into tastefully laid out pleasure grounds, which aiford a good
survey of the valley of the Nahe and the Glan, which here
falls into the Nahe.

Staudemlieiiii (*Salmen) is in the dominions of the Land-
grave of Hessen-Homburg, and lies on the r. bank of the river,
and is connected with the station by the "Landgrave-bridge."'

Soberuheini {Adler; Boheburg), a small town of some
antiquity, enclosed by a town-wall.

Monzingen (Pflug) lies on the hillside to the r., and yields
one of the best wines of the Nahe. The next station is that
of Martinatein, curiously built on a rock to the r., wilh a
church on an eminence surrounded by a fine group of trees-.
Beyond it is a valley opening on the r., in which the grand

ruins of *Dfiaun are situated.

"^Shaun, a castle of an old family of the Rhenish noblesse which became
extinct in 1750, was erected in the 12th cent., and in later years greatly
enlarged and improved. It is situated about 6Vs M. from stat. Monzingen,
and 3V4 M. from Kirn (see below). A relief over one of the doors, represent-
ing an ape in the act of giving an apple to a child, commemorates the fact
that a child of one of the Counts was carried off by an ape, but fortunately
recovered. Magnificent view of the valley of the Nahe as far as Lemberg,
and of the Simmerthal and the dark ravines of the Soonwald.

The traveller who takes the road from Monzingen to Dhaun should again
descend into the valley of the Nahe by Johannesberp (see below), the church
of which contains monuments of members of the above-mentioned family.

On an eminence to the r. is situated the church of Johannes-
berg. The valley here becomes narrower; the train passes
through a tunnel and reaches Kirn {*Post). It contains a very
old church, with a Romanesque nave, and Gothic choir, added
in the 15th cent. The town is commanded by the ruined
castle of Kyrburg (* Restaurant), once the residence of the
Princes of Salm-Kyrburg, the last of whom perished by tlie

guillotine in Paris in 1794.

About I'/j M. up the valley of the Hahnebach, which unites with the
Nahe at Kirn, are situated the ruins of Stein-Callenfels, curiously perched
on the side of the rock like a swallow's nest. In the background is seen the
white castle of Wartenstein; thence by Oberhamen to Dhaun, and from
Dhaun by Johannesberg, or through the wood to Kirn, a pleasant walk of
3'/i hrs. '

to Saarbrucken. BIRKENFELD. 28. Route. Ill

After traversing an opener and less romantic tract, the
line again enters a more mountainous district at Suhback,
where the melaphyr cliffs become more abrupt, and confine the
river in narrower limits. After passing Fischbach, a bridge, a
tunnel, and another bridge, the train comes in view of Ober-
stein, situated most picturesquely on the opposite bank. The
station is at some distance from the town. Inn on the r. bank
(*Heindl, R. and B. 15, D. 10, S. 8 Sgr.). On the 1. bank are
the shops where the agates (see below) are sold at moderate
prices. Below Oberstein are huge masses of conglomerate,
the *-^Fallen rocks" on the r. side of the road, which have
become detached from the steep hillside and now stand leaning
against it.

Oberstein is the finest point in the valley of the Nahe. The
precipitous melaphyr cliffs, 400 ft. in height, on the 1. bank of
the river, confine the town within very narrow limits. On their
summits are situated the ruins of two castles, belonging to the
Barons of Oberstein, who became extinct in 1670. Half-way
up is the *Prot€8tant church, curiously built (12th cent.) into the
face of the rock. It contains an old tombstone, said to belong
to the founder, and a picture of the Oberstein family. The
flight of steps which lead to the church are opposite to the
bridge; the sexton lives in the last house on the 1., as the
visitor ascends. The new Gothic Roman Cath. church, constructed
of dark red melaphyr, lies on the r. bank of the Nahe.

Oberstein has a population of 3500 ('A Rom. Cath.), the greater portion,
of which is occupied iu cutting and polishing agates, which were formerly
found here in great abundance. They are now, however, much more scarce,
and large quantitiis are imported from Brazil and Montevideo. A process
has recently been discovered, by which colourless agates are converted into
onyxes, sardonyxes Ac, by the addition of colouring matter. On the Idar-
back, which falls into the Nahe near Oberstein, there are upwards of 50 pol-
ishing mills; IdM(Gdrlitz), I'/a M. to the N.W. of Oberstein, contains a sort
of merchants' hall in which these wares are sold at officially regulated prices*
In Idar and Oberstein upwards of 100 so-called goldsmiths are engaged in
setting the stones in silver and other metals. — Beautiful excursion to the
Wildenburg (I'/jhr.) by the Katzenloch ; guide necessary.

On leaving Oberstein the train passes through a rapid
succession of tunnels and cuttings. The town of Birkenfeld
(Emmerich), situated 3 M. to the r. of the station, is the capital
of the principality of Birkenfeld, and now belongs to the Duchy
of Oldenburg. At Wallhausen the line attains its greatest
height (1225 ft.), the culminating point (watershed) between
the Nahe and Saar. It now descends to the district-town
of St. Wendel (Jochem), which contains a fine old Gothic
church with pulpit of 1462. On emerging from the tunnel
(450 yds.) of Wiebehkirchen, the train reaches Neunkirchen,
and joins the Saarbrucken line. From this point to Saar-
brucken^ see K. 45. *

112

89. Kreuznach and its Environs.

{Comp. Maps R.R. 45 and 24.)

Hotels. *Pfalzer Hof, next to the post-ojffice; Adier, both in the
town. — Berliner Hof, near the bath-island. Bath-establishments and
hotels on and near the bath-island: Curhaus, Englischer Hof, Kau-
zeuberg, Oranieuhof, Rheinstein, Hof von Holland, Ebern-
burg, Ac.

Carriage fares (to the following places and back with 4 hrs. stay):
Miinster am Stein one-horse iViThlr., two-horse 2%ThlT.', Rheingrafenstein
and Miinster am Stein 2—3 Thir.; Ebernburg 2 — 3 Thlr. ; Altenbaumberg
2— 3Thlr.; Rothenfels 2%— 3 Thir.; Dissibodenberg 2Vo— 4:Thlr.; Stromberg
272— 3 Va Thlr.; Rheinboller Hutte 5 Thlr.; Schloss Dhaiin 5 Thlr. Bridge
and roaa tolls are included in the above. Driver's fee optional.

Donkeys at the Curhaus (to the following places and back with halt of
Va day) : Miinster am Stein 1 Thlr., Rheingrafenstein 1 Thlr., Ebernburg 1 Thlr.,
Rothenfels 1 Thlr. A ride to the Gans, Rheingrafenstein, Ebernburg, and
back to Kreuznach, costs about 1'/, Thlr. The pedestrian would require
about 4 hrs. to make this beautiful round. He is recommanded, when on
the summit of the Kiihberg, not to keep the carriage road, but to diverge to
the r. by the signpost. The path leads through wood and along the brow
of the hill, commanding a succession of fine views and a survey of the deep
ravine of the Salmon.

Bailway to Bingen and Saarbrucken, see R. 28.

Kahe-wines. The best are yielded by the vineyards of the Scharlachberg
and Kauzenberg, of Norheim, Monzingen, Ebernburg, Miinster am Stein,
Wiuzenheim and Bosenheim.

* Statuettes made of an imitation of ivory (stucco saturated with stearic
acid) at Cauer's.

Znglish Churoh Serrioe during the season.

Kreuznacli (11,000 inhabitants; ^3 Rom. Cath.) has within
the last 20 — 30 years become a place of importance on account
of its baths, which are particularly beneficial in cases of
scrofula, and is visited by about 6000 patients annually. The
baths are situated on and near the Badeinsel (bath island),
near the bridge over the Nahe. A row of handsome houses
has lately been erected here, among which is the Curhausy
with a bath-establishment, conversation-hall, &c. The island
is in the morning and evening resorted to by the visitors,
who assemble here to drink the waters of the Elisabeth spring
(containing iodine and bromine), situated at the S. extremity,
and to enjoy the grounds and promenades. Temporary stalls
abound with all those objects with which the traveller is
usually tempted, the most conspicuous among them being the
really beautiful agate wares peculiar to the neighbourhood
(p. 111). The Church on the island was erected in 1768 to
replace that destroyed by the French in 1689. The ruins of
the Gothic choir (1333) of the latter have been fitted up as
an English Chapel.

On the N.W. side of the town, on the 1. bank of the Nahe,
rises the Schlossberg, a hill laid out in private gardens and
pleasure grounds; the vineyards on its S. slopes yield an
excellent wine. The summit, which is surmounted by the ruined
castle of Kauzenberg^ seat of the Sponheim family, destroyed

. RHEINGRAFENSTEIN. 29. Route. 113

by the French in 1689, commands a fine view of the Nahe
valley from the Rheingrafenstein to Bingen. A lion hewn in
stone brought here from Dbaun (p. 110) commemorates the
gallant conduct of Michel Mort, a butcher of Erenznach, who
sacrificed his life to save his Prince, Johann von Sponheim,
in the battle of Sprendlingen (472 ^* ^^ ^^^ ^* ^^ Kreuznach),
which the latter fought in 1279 against the Archbishop Werner
of Mayence. Kreuznach was from the 13th to the 15th cent, the
capital of the dominions of the Counts of Sponheim, and
afterwards became subject to the Electors Palatine.

In the valley of the Nahe, 1 M. above Kreuznach, in Prussian
territory, but the property of the Grand-duke of Hessen, are
situated the saline springs of Carls- and Theodorshalle, the
baths in connection with which are a private undertaking
{Hotel Rees; Foreith; R. in both 3 — 5 Thlr. per week).

At MUnster am Stein, 27, M. from Kreuznach, are
extensive salt-works belonging to the Prussian Government, and
warm saline baths (37 ° Fahr.). Good accommodation may be
had at the springs, or in the village (Curhaus; Hotel Low).

Here the * Rheingrafenstein, a porphyry cliff, rises almost
perpendicularly from the Nahe to the height of 420 ft. The
river should be crossed near the saline springs (to the 1. a
* restaurant), opposite to which a somewhat steep but easily
accessible path leads to the top, which commands a fine view.
The boldly situated ruined castle, built in the 11th cent, was
once a residence of the "Rheingrafen" (or Rhenish counts),
but was blown up by the French in 1689. The new castle,
farm-buildings, vineyards, &c., are now the property of the
Prince of Solms-Braunfels, who sometimes resides here in the
summer. (Direct path from Kreuznach to the Rheingrafen-
stein, see R. 45.)

The *aan8 (1070ft.), y^M. to theN.E. of the Rheingrafen-
stein, commands a still more extensive view, comprising the
Nahethal as far as Bingen, a portion of the Rheingau, the
Rochuscapelle, Johaunisberg, and the course of the Rhine;
far below are the Rheingrafenstein and Ebernburg, and in the
distance to the 1. the Donnersberg; in the valley the village
of Munster am Stein, farther up Norheim, and on the opposite
bank of the river the barren cliffs of Rothenfels.

Opposite to the Rheingrafenstein, to the W., is situated the
ruined castle of * Ebernburg, once the stronghold of Franz
von Sickingen (d. 1523, see p. 103), and which at that time
often served as an asylum for outlaws and fugitives. Under
his roof several of the early Reformers found shelter from
persecution, and Ulrich von Hutten here composed his letters
to Charles V., to the German nobility and nation. ShorUy after
Baedekbh's Rhine. 8

114 Route 30. SAARLOUIS.

Sickingen's death the castle fell into the hands of the Electors
of Treves, Hessen, and the Palatinate. It was fortified by the
French in 1689, but, in accordance with the stipulations of
the peace of Ryswyck in 1698, it was again dismantled. Out
of the ruins rises a pinnacled building of strange appearance,
built by the present owner, and employed as an •inn. It
contains portraits of Sickingen and his wife, of Ulrich von
Hutten, and others. The weapons, bullets &c., found in the
old well (295 ft. deep), as well as several old sculptures, are
to be seen in the castle yard. The prospect is fine, especially
that of the valley of the Alsenz, with the ruins of Kronenburg
in the background.

The view from the * Rothenfels, a porphyry cliff, rising
precipitously from the valley to the height of 900 ft., surpasses
those commanded by the Gans and Ebcrnbnrg, as it embraces
the valley of the Nahe as far as the Lemberg and the Alsenz-
thal to the Moschellandsberg. The distant view is quite as
extensive as that from the Gans. The footpath leading to it
ascends from the saline springs through shady woods. Donkeys
and conveyance, see p. 112.

Two delightful but more distant excursions may be taken
from Kreuznach to the Dissibodenberg, and Dhaun (p. 110),
which may best be reached by railway. — From Kreuznach
by "Stromberg to Bacharach, see p. 101.

30. From Saarbrttcken to Treves and

Luxembourg.

By railway to Treves in 2V4 hrs.; fares: 2 Thlr. 15Va. A Thlr. 22'/,.
1 ThJr. 5 Sgr.j to Luxembourg iu S'/j hrs.; fares: 3 Thlr. 27, 2 Tbir, 16,
1 ThJr. 24 8gr.

The line follows the course of the Saar^ the most picturesque
parts of which are between Saarbrucken and Saarlouis, and
afterwards between Mettlach and Saarburg.

Saaxloiiis {*Rheini8cker Hof; Zvoei Mohren)^ a Prassian
fortress built by Vauban within one year, in consequence of
a bet with Louis XIV., and the birthplace of the unfortunate-
Marshal Ney; the house in which he was born is indicated
by a marble tablet.

The next stations are Dillingen, Beckint/ea, and Merzi^
(Trierscher Hof), at the last of which are the remnants of a
pointed-arched piazza of the 12th cent.

At Mettlach (before reaching which a long tunnel is passed
through) are the buildings which once belonged to a Benedictine
abbey, founded in the 7th cent., now occupied by the extensive
stone-ware manufactory of Villeroy and Boch, one of the most
important in Germany.

SAARBURG. 30, Route. 115

At Mettlach the 6aar makes a considerable circuit, which the line avoids
by means of the above-mentioned tunueJ. The N. point of the hill ^whirh it
penetrates {A^^ M. to the N.W. of Mettlach, reached by a pretty, shady walk)
is called the *Clef, 'which affords a fine survey of the two arms of the
valley of the Saar, separated by a narrow strip of land, on which stands the
ruined castJe of Montclair, destroyed as early as 1350 by the Elector Balduin
of Treves.

One mile W. from the Clef lies the village of Orscholz ( *ThieUemann8)
from which a carriage road leads to Weiten, 2*/^ M. to the N. A mile farther
in the same direction is the old castle of Freudenburg, and 1 M. beyond it
a signpost indicates the way to the village of Gastall. Near it, on a bold
Tock overhanging the Saar, is an old chapel restored by the late king Fred.
IViliiam IV. in 1830, when Crown-prince, and to which he caused the bones
of his ancestor, the blind king John of Bohemia who fell at Cressy in 1346,
to be transported. The castellan lives in the village below.

At the Prussian village of Hennig (8 M. to the W. of Freudenburg) is a
remarkably fine Roman *JUosaic-floor, 50 by 33 ft. It represents 8 different
pictures, the principal being a combat of gladiators surrounded by groups
of animals and athletes.

The line 8till keeps the r. bank of the Saar, and its lofty
embankments traverse the grauwackian hills, between which
the river flows. As the train approaches Saarburg, the above-
mentioned chapel of Casieli is seen rising on a precipitous rock
on the 1. bank.

Saarburg (Post, carriage to Castell [see above] 2^^ Jhlr.;
*Tri€r8cher Hof) is picturesquely situated in a basin formed
by the surrounding hills, and overtopped by the considerable
ruins of a castle of the former Electors of Treves. The Leuk^
which here unites with the Saar, forms a waterfall, 60 ft. in
height, near the "Post."

The line still continues in the valley of the Saar, passing
several wine-producing villages, till it reaches Conz, the Con-
Mum of the Romans, immediately below which the valley of
the Moselle is entered. The bridge over the Saar at Conz is
mentioned by the Roman poet Ausonius (d. 392) in his poem
entitled "Mosella," but the present structure was erected by
Clemens Wenceslaus, the last Elector of Treves, the original
bridge having been destroyed by theFrench under Marshal Crequi,
on their retreat on the 11th of August, 1675, when defeated by
the imperial confederates under George William of Brunswick.

The railway here crosses the Moselle by a massive stone
bridge. On the 1. bank the line to Treves diverges; the station
is near the old Moselle bridge. Treves, see p. 117.

The Luxembourg line next passes the village of IgeL
The celebrated * Monument of Igel (p. 121), the most beautiful
Roman relic on this side of the Alps, is visible from the
train. Above Igel are extensive gypsum and lime quarries.
Before reaching stat. Wasserhillig the line crosses the frontier
of Luxembourg; scenery picturesque; the Sauer (Sure) here
unites with the Moselle, after having for a considerable distance
towards the N. formed the boundary between Prussia and

116 Route 30. LUXEMBOURG. Fortifications.

Luxembourg. Near stat. Mertert the line quits the valley of
the Moselle and ascends that of the Sire. After passing several
minor stations, the train crosses the Pulverthal by a viaduct
800 ft. in length and 100 ft. in height; the station, which is
situated on the r. side of the Petrusthal, is connected with the
town by means of a handsome bridge.

Juuxembourgj formerly LUtzelburg {Hotel de Cologne; Hotel
de Luxembourg)^ a fortress of the German confederation with a
Prussian garrison (6000 men) and a pop. of 12,170, is the
capital of the duchy of the same name, now subject to the
king of Holland. The situation of the town is at once peculiar
and picturesque. The upper portion is perched upon a rocky
table-land, connected with the open country towards the W.
only, whilst the other three sides are bounded by abrupt
precipices, 200 ft. in height, at the base of which flows the
Petrushach and the Alzette (Alzig) ; beyond these streams again
rise equally abrupt walls of rock. In this narrow ravine lies
the lower portion of the town, distinguished by its industrial
animation, and consisting of P/affenthal^ the N. suburb, and
Clausen and Grundy the S. suburbs separated by a rocky ridge
termed le Bouc (Bock). The valley of the Alzette, studded
with numerous habitations, and occasionally intersected by the
walls of the fortress, forms a natural fosse. The view of the
town with its variety of mountain and valley, gardens and
rugged rocks, handsome military edifices and groups of trees,
as seen from the Treves road, is singularly striking. This
Imposing aspect is enhanced by the gigantic railway viaducts,
and the handsome, colossal bridge which connects the railway
station with the opposite side of the valley.

The fortifications combine the massive proportions of
modern structures of this description with the boldness of
ancient mountain castles. The most interesting portion is the
Bouc (Bock), a narrow projecting ridge, honeycombed from top
to bottom with casemates, loopholes and embrasures, by which
the valley of the Alzette is commanded in all directions. On
this ridge is constructed the road to Treves, descending from
the upper part of the town by numerous windings.

The construction of these works has during a period of
500 years gradually progressed under various possessors, —
Henry IV., Count of Luxembourg, afterwards German emperor
as Henry VII. (d. 1312), his son John, the blind king of Bohemia
(killed at the battle of Cressy in 1346), the Burgundians, the
Spaniards, the French (whose eminent military engineer Vauban,
under Louis XIV., reconstructed a great portion of the fortress),
and finally the German Confederation. Luxembourg is de-
signated by Carnot as "/a plus forte place de l' Europe aprea

TREVES. 3L Route, 117

Gibraltar, le seal point d*appui pour attaquer la France du cote
de la MoseUe**

Beyond the fortifications and the delightful environs Luxem-
bourg possesses little to arrest the traveller. Of the magnificent
castle of the Spanish Governor Count Mansfeld (1545 — 1604)
no vestige is left, with the exception of a Gateway in the
lower part of the town, into which several Roman reliefs and
inscriptions are built. The celebrated Mansfeld Gardens
and parks now only nominally exist in a walk along the E.
slope of the hill, in the vicinity of the Treves Gate, which
however merits a visit on account of the striking view it
commands. The traveller who has sufficient leisure will be
well repaid by a walk through the entire valley.

31- Treves.

H«t«lf. *Trier8eher Hof (PI. a), R. 20, L. 5, B. 10 S^r. *Rothes
Haas (PI. b) (similar prices), formerly senate-house. *Lnxembarger Hof
(PJ. c) and *Stadt Venedig (PI. d), both good second-class houses with
moderate charges.

0«fta« Fischer, in the market-place. Bellevue and Schneider's
Hof, both on au eminence on the I. baulc of the Moselle, comntanding a
magnificent view, y^ M. distant from the ferry at Zurlauben at the lower end
of the town ; bacic to Treves by Zurlauben, passing the entrance to the Pallieu-
Thal, a pretty glimpse of which is obtained through the arch of a bridge
built by Napoleon.

Carriagea. Two-horse carriages 4 Thlr. per diemj to Igel (p. 115; 3 Thlr,,
one-horse 1 Thlr, 10 8gr.

Railway station ou the L bank of the Moselle. Railway toSaar-
briicken, see R. 30, and to Luxembourg.

Telegraph OfBoe near the Neuthor.

Steamboat to Coblenz, see p. 121.

Treves (Ger. Trier), said to be the oldest town in Germany,
was the capital of the Treviri, a race of the Belgic Gauls,
conquered B.C. 56 by Csesar, who converted it into a Roman
colony under the name of Augusta Trevirorum, The new colony
increased rapidly in importance, and was on more occasions
than one the residence of the Emperors. Under Constantino
the Great it was the capital of the whole of Gaul, and had
its senate, magistrates, nobility, and priesthood; and with its
arts, sciences, and extensive commercial relations became no
mean rival of Imperial Rome itself. The relics and remnants
of buildings belonging to that agQ with which the vicinity
abounds, are incontestibly the finest on this side of the Alps.

Upon the introduction of Christianity byConstantine, Agricius
of Antioch was in 328 elected first Bishop of Treves, which
for nearly 15 centuries continued to be the residence of the
bishops, archbishops, and electors, till Clemens Wenceslaus,
the last elector, transferred his residence to Coblenz in 1786.

On Aufir. 10th, 1794, the French took the town, exacted

118 Rovte 31. TREVES. Porta Nigra.

from it a contribution of lYj million francs, and in 1802
abolished all the monasteries and religious establishments.
Till 1815 Treves was the chief town of the Department of
the Saar, when it was made over to Prussia. Its population
is 17,240 (1500 Prot., and 2000 soldiers). The vine-clad hills
in the environs, the wooded heights, the rich and fruitful plain
in which the town, with its red sandstone walls and numerous
towers, is situated, form- a most picturesque and striking
landscape.

The most important and at the same time the most in-
teresting and best preserved of the Roman antiquities of Treves
is the * Porta Nigra {Romertkor, Simeongthor, PI. 21) at the
N. end of the town. The dimensions of this magnificent relic
are: length 115 ft., height 74 — 93 ft., breadth including the
wings 167 ft. It consists of three different stories, with two
gateways, 23 ft. in height, and is constructed of huge, un-
cemented blocks of lias sandstcme, blackened by time. In
1035 this structure was converted into a church, and the lower
story filled up, and in this state it remained till 1817, when
it was restored to its ancient condition and use as a gateway
by the Prussian government. In the part formerly used as
the choir a collection of Roman antiquities is exhibited by
the custodian of the baths.

Next in interest are the * Roman Bath* (PI. 24), entered
from the Promenade and also through a wicket-gate from the
Esplanade (5 Sgr.), forming the S.E. corner of the town. They
were as late as 1817 almost entirely buried beneath a mass of
earth and rubbish, but this has been removed by the Prussian
government, and the spacious apartments, halls, and channels
for hot air, carefully and tastefully constructed of large bricks
and small blocks of limestone, are now completely exposed
to view and preserved from the farther ravages of time. The
summit is reached by a steep spiral stair-case, and affords a
good survey of the structure itself and the town.

On a rising ground about 500 yds. from the Baths is the
^Amphitheatre, termed by the inhabitants the Kdskeller (cheese-
cellar), situated among vineyards. This arena, still in excellent
preservation, has a diameter from N. to S. of 225, and
from E. to W. 156 ft., and was capable of accommodating
57,000 spectators. Here Constantine the Great sullied his fame
in the year 306 by causing several thousand captive Franks,
with their leaders Ascarich and Ragais, to be torn to pieces by
wild beasts, which barbarous scene was repeated in 313, when
thousands of the Bructeri were sacrificed for the amusement
of the people. The ten apertures in the walls, which led to
the vaulted dens (^cavece) where the wild beasts were kept, are

Cathedral TREVES. Si, Route. 119

fitill to be seen. The * Villa Recking, above the Amphitheatre,
affords the best view of the town, as well as of the amphi-
theatre itself. Pleasant walk to the village of Clewig (i Vi M.).

The *Ba8ilika (PI. 9) is a building said to date from a
period prior to the time of Constantine, the purposes of which
antiquarians have been unable to determine with precision;
43ome suppose it to have been a theatre, others an imperial
residence. In the early part of the middle ages it was the
seat of the Governors of the town, but at the commencement
of the 12th cent, was, with the supreme jurisdiction of the
town, transferred to the bishops, and constituted a part of the
episcopal palace, afterwards erected by them. When the town
became Prussian, it was converted into a barrack, but in 1846
was restored to its ancient condition by the late king Fred.
William IV. In 1856 it was fitted up and consecrated as a
Protestant church. The entire length is 220 ft., breadth 98 ft.,
and height of the hall 97 ft.; the N. side is built in a semi-
circular form, and the interior is lighted by a double row of
windows.

In the time of the Romans the * Bridge over the Moselle
was situated in the middle of the town. It was partially
destroyed by the French in 1689, and in 1729 the remnants
were employed in the construction of the present bridge, which
crosses the river at the S.W. extremity of the town.

In the Diedrichstrasse, at the fourth house from the market-
place on the I., are the old walls of a building, now employed
as a coach«house, believed to have been a Roman tower of
defence ^ropugnaculum) (PI. 29), but in reality dating from the
6th or 7th cent.

Among the older ecclesiastical buildings only two are worthy
of note, the Cathedral, and the adjacent Liebfrauenkirche,
both situated near the Basilika. The * Cathedral (PI. 10) was
once, according to an ancient tradition, a palace of the Roman
ompcrors, and the birthplace of St. Helena, the mother of
Constantine the Great. It is difficult to convey an idea of its
architectural merit, as no less than six different styles have been
combined in its construction: Corinthian columns of the time
of Constantine contrast with Romanesque and Gothic arches;
the grotesque styles of the 17th and 18th centuries, and the
unsuitable Ionic pillars erected in 1849 to support the organ,
form, with the recent external and internal decorations, an
incongruous though not unimposing whole. Fragments of the
pillars of Odenwald granite, which once decorated the portion
of the structure where the grand choir now begins, lie in front
of the W. Portal. The entire length of the edifice, exclusive
of the treasury, is 314 ft., breadth 135 ft., and height 90 ft.

120 Route 81. TREVES. Liehfrauenkirche,

It contains three aisles and two choirs. The different periods
of the architecture, beginning with the Roman period, are
well exhibited in the interior of the church. In its vaults
repose the remains of 26 archbishops and Electors. The
finest of the monuments is that of Johann III. {von Metzen,'-
hatisen, d. 1540), on the wall of the N. aisle. On the tombstone
of the Elector Richard III. (von Greifenclau, d. 1531), the
successful opponent of Protestantism, are small medallions
with likenesses of the Elector on the 1., and his most violent
antagonist, Franz von Sickingen (p. 103), on the r. side.
This church is the depositary of some highly prized relics.
Foremost may be named the "Holy Coat" without seam, the
exhibition of which at rare intervals attracts enormous crowds
of pilgrims. A nail from the Cross and a portion of the
Crown of Thorns are also objects of superstitious veneration.
By the steps leading to the High altar are statues of Constaniine
and St Helena, and on the pulpit, reliefs in stone of 1'572,
representing the 8 Beatifications and the Last Judgment.

Adjacent to the cathedral, and connected with it by beautiful
cloisters restored in 1847, is the *Liebfraueiikircli6 (PI. 15)^
a church of inconsiderable dimensions, but deservedly admired
as one of the most exquisite specimens of Gothic architecture
in Germany. It was completed in 1243, five years before the
foundation-stone of the cathedral at Cologne was laid. The
form of the structure is circular, intersected by a lofty vaulted
cross, and supported by 12 slender pillars, on which the
12 apostles are represented, painted probably in the I5th cent.;
they may all be seen simultaneously from a slab of slate in
the pavement, about 8 yds. from the entrance, which the sacristan
points out. The church contains numerous monuments of
ecclesiastical dignitaries, and the mummy of Bishop Theodulf,
-who died in the 6th cent. The *Portal is richly decorated
with sculptures, symbolical of the Old and New Testament.

The Town I^ibrary, in the buildings of the Grammar
School (PI. 26), contains a considerable collection of rare and
valuable works, amongst them the bible of Faust and Guten-
berg of 1450, and the Catholicon of 1460; of the MSS. the
most interesting is the Codex aureus, which ^contains the four
Gospels, presented by Ada (d. 809), the sister of Charlemagne,
to the Abbey of St. Maximin, within the precincts of which
she was afterwards interred. It is illuminated with strictly
allegorical paintings; the binding is superbly ornamented with
precious stones and a cameo of uncommon size, representing
the Familia Augusta.

The Museum (PI. 20) in the same building may be visited
on account of the valuable collection it contains of fossils and

TO
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b.
8

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i
i
t

IQEL. 31. Ruu.u. 121

volcanic productions from the Eifel, and a great number of
coina and antiquities of the Roman period and the middle ages.

By far the moet interesting Roman mo-
nument on tliis aide of the Alps must now
be mentioned — the celebrated 'I^ler
Siittle, or Igel Monument, popularly termed
"HeideiUkurm" (heathens' tower}, situated
in the middle of the village of thai name,
abont 20 yds. to the r. of the Treves and
Luxembourg road. It is a square sandatone
colamn, 71 ft. in height, and IB ft. broad at
the base, probablj erected in the 2iid cent. ;
it bears a number of reliefs, [^arTing8 and
insccipCions on the different panels. An-
tiquarians differ in their conjectures con-
cerning the origin and purpose of this fine ■

relic, and its inscriptions have been variouelj interpreted. It
was, however, in all probability a monument erected by the
rich mercantile family of Secumiini, who lived in this vicinity,
to the memory of one their sons, who, as some of the allegorical
reliefs seem to intimate, perished by drowning, and, as another
relief exhibits a roan and woman in the act of joining their
hands, it may also have been intended to eomnieinorate a
happier and more auspicious event.

Another objeet of almost equal interest is the 'Hosaic
fioor of a Roman villa, discovered in 1S52 atNennig, a village
on the I. bank of the Moselle, see p. 115.

32. The Moselle trom. Treves to Coblenz.

From Treves to Coblenz by water is about 150 M., by land
half that distance. To the traveller in search of the picturesque,
the course of the river presents the greatest attractions. The
scenery, though not on so extensive a scale, is hardly inferior
to that of the Rhine; indeed there are those who yield the
preference to the softer and more varied charma of the lesser
stream. The fall from Treves to Coblenz is 204 ft.

The villages on the banks, other objects of interest, and
the best points for inland excursions are here enumerated:

I. F/aUel {Palaliolum), where Adela, daughter of King
Dagobert, founded a convent in 655.

122 Route 32. NEUMAGEN. From Treves

\. Ehrang^ the Quint (ad quintum, i. e. 5 M. from Treves)
with extensive iron-foundry, and IsseL

1. Schweick ('Dany), with ferry to the Treves and Coblenz
road.

r. Kirsch; beyond is Longwich.

1. Riot {Rigodulum), where the Roman general CeriaLis
•conquered the rebellious Treviri, and took their leader Va-
4entinus prisoner {Tacit, hist IV, 70).

1. Trittenheim^ birthplace of Johann Trithemius, an eminent
historian, and abbot of Sponheim.

r. Keuxnag^n {Claeren, Hain), the Noviomagum of the
Komans, where Constantine had a castle (the ^^inclita castra
Constantini'* of Ausonins), few traces of which now remain.
The church is believed to have been partly constructed (1190)
with the stones of the castle.

1. Pisport {Pisonis Partus) is celebrated for its wine.

1. Minheim nearly opposite to

r. the Ohligsberg , Dusemond.

I. The Braunebery, another celebrated wine district.

r. Mtihlheini (*AarscA), a village of some importance.

1. Lieser (Heyder), with several country houses in the
vicinity, at the mouth of the brook of the same name.

1. Cues was the birthplace of the learned Cardinal Nicolans
Cusanus (d. 1464), where he founded a hospital to which he
liequeathed his library, containing some valuable MSS., a
■considerable number of Codices and some rare old impressions.

r. Bemcastel ( *Drei Konige)^ capital town of this district,

partly burned down in 1857; ruined Castle of Landskut.

Diligence daily to Treves in 6, to Kreuznach in 9 hrs.

From Berncastel a footpath, commanding a fine view, crosses the hill to
Trarbach, which may be reached in V/^ hr. At the highest point, 1100 ft.
-above the fiver (40 min. walk), stands a direction post. To the r. of the
path may still be seen traces of extensive intrenchments, made partly by the
French. The descent to Trarbach is stony and somewhat steep. Distance
t)y water 15 M. ; steamboat down in I'/i hr., up in 3 hrs.

r. Graach, and beyond it Zeltingen (de Wilde), both
•celebrated for their wine.

1. Uerzig {*Poat, Berres) at the beginning of the road
leading to Wittlich and the Eifel (p. 126). Below the village
is a tower built into the rock, formerly a castle of the family
von Urlei, afterwards a hermitage.

I. Groff {Comes)', opposite to it,

r. Wolf, with ruins of an old monastery on the height.

T. Trarbach {Grdfinburg), completely burned down in 1857,
is the busiest and wealthiest town on the whole river; it is
commanded by the ruin of the Grdfinlnirg, erected in the middle
of the 14th cent, by the Countess Laurette von Starkenburg

io Coblenz. TRABEN. 32. Route, 123

with the ransom she exacted from Balduin, archbishop of
Treves, for his release from the Castle of Starkenburg, where
she had caused him to be confined as a punishment for an
attempted infringement of her rights. The castle was dis-
mantled by the French in 1734.

Opposite to Trarbach, at the foot of vine-clad slopes,
lies

I. Traben (*Qau8), on the wide table-land above which
may be seen the traces of the extensive fortification of Mont-
royal, constructed by Louis XIV. in 1686, and levelled in 1697
in accordance with stipulations made in the Treaty of Ryswyck.
Fine view.

r. Enkirck (*Immich), from which a footpath leads over
che hill to Zell in 1^/^ hr.; distance by water 9 M.

i. Reil (Barzen).

r. Punderich (Schneiders). On the 1. bank, opposite to the
landing place, a steep path ascends to the r. through vineyards
to *Marienburg, a ruined castle or monastery, which may
be reached in V, hr. The view is one of the most beautiful
on the Moselle; lat the top refreshments may be procured.
The descent on the other side of the hill to Alf may easily
be accofnplished in less than Yj hr., while the whole distance
by the river is about 12 M., which the steamboat performs in
1 hr. with, and 2 hrs. against the stream. A tolerable walker,
disembarking at Punderich, may without difficulty cross the
hill and regain the boat at Alf.

r. Briedel (*Thei8en).

r. Zell {Melchiors; Fier)^ principal town of the district,
fiiirrounded by remnants of an old wall and tower.

r. Merl, view of the Marienburg.

1. Alf {*Thei8en; Bad Berwick) beautifully situated at the
mouth of the lovely valley of the Alf. The walk from Alf
to Punderich is particularly recommended to those ascending
the river.

A day may be advantageously devoted to the Bath$ of Bertrich, and its
volcauie environs. The road from Alf to Bertrich (5 M. ; carriage there and
t>iek !•/, — 2 Thir.) leads through the romantic Valley of the Alf, enclosed
l>y precipitous rocks, 700 ft. in height, passing the ruins of the Burg Arrat,
and some extensive iron-works.

Bertrioh (*Werlinff; *Klering; Adler; *Po3t), a watering-place much
frequented by the inhabitants of the banks of the Moselle, is visited annually
by upwards of 1000 patients. The warm springs (90° Fahr.) contain a con-
siderable quantity of Glauber's salt, and are especially efficacious in cases
of gout, rheumatism, and nervous maladies. Bertrich is a place of rising
importance. It is delightfully situated in a secluded valley, enclosed by
wooded hills, and offers many attractions to the valetudinarian who would
fain be free from the allurements of the gaming table and the other excite-
ments which must too often retard the cure at the more fashionable watering-
places. On an eminence called the Romerkeaselj where tlie Roman relics now
to be seen in the garden of the bath-establishment were found, stands a small
Protestant chapel.

124 Route 32, ELLER. From Trevea

About Vs ^* to ^® ^* 0^ Bertrich the road twice crosses the Uesbach,
At the second bridge, in the hill to the 1., is the so-called *KAskeller
(eheese-cellar), a grotto composed of basaltic columns, each of -which is.
formed of 8 or 9 spheroids, exactly resembling cheeses. Near it is a Waterfall,
50 ft. in height. A basaltic stream of lava is visible in several places in the
bed of the Uesbacb.

The new road to Lutzerath leads at a considerable elevation on the I.
bank of Ueshach as far as a crescent (% M .)« whence it ascends to the r. in
a zigzag direction to the village of Kenfusft (1 M.). A footpath to the r., to
the rear of the gardens of the village, leads in 6 miu. to the ^Falkenlel
(1276 ft.), a semi-conical hill, the 8. side of which is a precipice 160 ft. in
height, exhibiting the geological constitution of the interior. At the bottom
lie solid masses of lava; and at the top scoriae and slag, in which numerous-
caves and clefts have been formed. The summit affords an extensive view
of the numerous volcanic peaks of the Eifel, the highest of which are th»
Hohe Ac/it (2340 ft.), the Ntirburg (2118 ft.), with a tower on its summit^
and the Hohe Kelberg (2070 ft.), to the N. On the W. the prospect is circum-
scribed by the long isolated ridge of the Mosenberg (p. 132). Lutzerath
(1259 ft.), a post station on the Coblenx and Treves road, is 4'/% M. distant
from theFalkenlei. Diligence twice a day between Bertrich and Lutzerath^

On the Moselle, opp. to Alf, lies

r. Bullay, whence a precipitous path leads to the (50 min.)
*Konig, commanding an extensive prospect. Descent in 30 min.
to Merl (p. 123).

I. Aldegund (Andries) with ancient chnrch.

r. Neefy surrounded by fruit trees. A footpath over the
hill, on the summit of which the churchyard of Neef and the
Chapel of St. Peter are situated, leads in ^^ hr. to Eiler, cutting
off the long circuit which the Moselle here describes. At the
extremity of the bend lies

1. Bremm (* Amelinger).

r. Stubefiy a monastery erected in the 12th cent, and se-
cularized in 1788; finally abandoned to decay in 1793.

1. Eller {Crietzen; Maintzer) with old castellated houses and
farm-houses belonging to the feudal ages; path over the hill
to Cochem in 2 hrs. The banks of the river are however
particularly beautiful at this point, and the traveller is recom-
mended not to leave the boat.

1. Ediger (Maass), a small town, surrounded with old
fortifications; on the height the ruins of the Kreuzkapelle.

1. SenhaUy where Roman coins and relics have been
repeatedly discovered.

r. Beilstein; the castle on the heights was once the
residence of the counts, now princes, of Metternich-Winne*
burg.

r. Bruttigy birthplace of the celebrated grammarian Petrus
Mosellanns, professor at Leipsic, who died in 1524.

1. Ober- and Nieder-Ernst. Between them a handsome new
church and school-house.

r. Valwig; the rocks are here very picturesque and resemble
the Lurlei on the Rhine.

to Coblenz. COCHEM. 32. Route. 125

1. Cochem {Union; *Kehrer), principal town of tbe district,
with ruins of a castle which frequently served as a residence
of the Archbishops of Treves in the 14th and 16th centuries.
Picturesquely situated on an eminence are the buildings which
formerly belonged to a Capuchin monastery. Beyond it, on
the summit of a mountain, rise the ruins of the castle of
IVinneburg, the most ancient seat of the Metternich family.
Cochem is one of the most beautifully situated places on the
Moselle.

1. Clotten (Thomas) with an old castle; depot for the slate
of Mullenbach, a village 9 M. to the N.W., with numerous
and remarkable subterranean quarries.

Treis (Castor; Raueiser) with a modern church. Opposite
to it lies

1. Garden (Braiier), where, in the 12th cent., a church
was founded by St. Castor, which in the 12th cent, was enlarged
and converted into a handsome three-towered Sti/tskirche in
honour of the saint.

1. Muden. Footpath to Schloss Eltz in y^ hr.

1. Moselkem (Deiss) at the mouth of the Eltz.

In the narrow and winding valley of the Eltz, about 4 M. to the N.W. of
Moselkeru, stands *Sohlou Elte, an ancient residence of the noble family of
Eltz. The castle is most picturesquely situated, and presents one of the best
preserved specimens of a feudal residence of the middle ages in Germany,
which the traveller is strongly recommended to visit. Many of the rooms
are furnished in the ponderous style of bygone ages, and the walls hung, if
not adorned, with a collection of family portraits, ancient armour, &c. In
the Kittersaal (knights' hall) a book is kept in which visitors may record their
names, and, if so disposed, inspect the autograph of the Prince of Wales,
who during his sojourn in Germany visited this delightful spot. Opposite
to Schloss Eltz are the ruins of Trutz-Eltz, erected by Archbishop Balduin
to command the castle, with the counts of which he carried on a protracted
feud. About 3 M. farther up the valley lie the ruins of the fine old castle
oi Pyrmont. The road from Moselkeru to Schloss Eltz through the valley
is very rough, and only adapted to the hardy pedestrian. The stream must
be crossed 13 times, a steppiug-stone here and there affording but an in-
diflferent footing, but if a prospect of wet feet does not deter the pedestrian,
the beauty of the walk will amply repay him. Another footpath runs along
the brow of the hill on the r. bank of the Eltz, but is much overgrown with
brushwood and to be traced only with difficulty. By carriage the excursion
can only be made from Hiinatermaifeld {Maif elder Hof\ a venerable town
of some importance, 3 M. to the N.E. of Schloss Eltz. The church was
founded as early as 642; the front with the towers appears as if it appertained
to some old fortress rather than to a sacred edifice. — Diligence daily to
Coblenz in 3 hrs.

Below Moselkern a tall round tower rises on the, hill to
the 1., a remnant of Burg Bischofstein, erected in 1270.

1. Hatzenport (Hattonis porta) (*Moritz). Opposite to
it lies

r. Brodenbach {Joh. Probst) ^ from which a road ascends
through a mountain ravine to the ruins of *£hreiiburg
(2M.), situated on an isolated peak, the finest ruin on the
Moselle. Road to Boppard on the Rhine, see p. 94.

126 Route 32, COBERN.

1. The Tempelhof or Sternberg^ a ruined Gothic castle,
situated in the midst of vineyards.

r. Aiken, an ancient borough connected by walls and towers
with the old castle of Thurant, on the height above, built by the
Count Palatine Heinrich in 1197. It was besieged in 1246 — 48
by the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, during which
time upwards of 600,000 gallons of wine are said to have
been consumed by the besiegers.

r. Oberfell; Kuhr (•Gunther).

1. Lehmen (•Zirwas).

r. Niederfell (*Fasbender).

1. Gondorf (Haupt) with a country-seat erected by the
Elector Johann von der Leyen in 1560.

1. Cobem (Fischer). Above it stands the Niederhurg, once
the seat of the knights of Cobem. Higher is situated the
Ober- or Aitenburg, in the interior of which is the * Chapei
of St. Matthias, celebrated for the beauty of its architecture.
It is built in the form of a hexagon, and, according to
tradition, owes its origin to a crusader in the early part of
the 13th cent.

r. Dieblich (*N6rtershauser) possesses a handsome new
church.

1. Winning^n (Krone), a small market- town, where the
best wine of the Lower Moselle is produced, below it, r. Lay,
and 1. GUIs with a handsome church, situated in the midst of
an vast orchard.

r. Moseiweis, completely surrounded by fruit-trees.

r. Coblenz (R. 20). Steamboat -passengers disembark
above the railway bridge.

33. The Volcanic Eifel.

Ad excursion into the Vorder-Ei/ely the most remarkable part of this
mountaiuous district, may be advantageously combined \vith the tour of the
Moselle as follows. 1st day: from Coblenz by steamboat to Alf (p. 123) in
7 — 8 hrs. ; ascend the Marienburg (I'/i hr.); on foot in 2 hrs. to Bertrich
(or in an open carriage), inspect the Falkenlei and Kdsketler (1'/^ hr.), pass
the night at Bertrich. 2nd day: on foot through Uontheim^ Strotzbusch,
Trautzberg and Strohn to Gillenfeld (12 M.) , to the Pulvermaar and back
(2 M.), to dinner at Gillenfeld; in the afternoon to Schalkenmehrtn , Wein-
Ulder Maar, Mduaeberg and Daun (10 M.)* 3d day: by carriage to Gerol-
stein and back to Daun in 8 hrs.; afternoon on foot to Sfanderacheid (9 M.).
4th day: environs of Manderscheid , and on foot to Witttieh^ or, if the
traveller's time be limited, to Uertig, € If. farther, where on the following
morning he may take the boat (in summer daily) to Coblenz. A 6th day
would be well spent in visiting Treves (by diligence from Wittlich, twice
daily in 4 hrs.)*

The Moselle between Coblenz and Alf has been already

described in the preceding route. From the Cfrotio of Cheeses

a road leads in a S. W. direction to Hontheim (2^/4 M.),

GILLENFELD. 33. Route, 127

thence to Strotzbasch {Vj^ M.), and through Truutzherg to
Strohn (iVj M.), a village in the valley of the Alf. The
Wartesberg (14^8 ft.), one of the largest volcanic mountains
in the Eifel, extends along the E. side of the valley, com-
mencing at Strohn and terminating at Sprink (1 M. farther
S.)> '^^^ crater, which it undoubtedly possesses, is difficult
to recognize on account of the extensive masses of slag by
which it is concealed.

GiUenfeld (1263 ft.) {*Kia8en-Otto; [Caspari) is situated
1^2 M. farther up the valley. On the heights, 1 M. to the
£. of GiUenfeld, lies the * Pulvermaar (1249 ft.), an extinct
crater of a nearly circular form, now filled with water 330 ft.
in' depth. It is enclosed on three sides by wooded hills, and
is the most beautiful, and, with the exception of the Laacher
See (p. 72), the largest of these crater-lakes of the Eifel; it
occupies an area of about 90 acres. The banks consist of
volcanic sand, tufa and scoriae. On the S. side of the lake
rises the volcanic Romeraherg (1468 ft.). [Manderscheid lies
7V2 M. to the S.W. of GiUenfeld; the road leads by Eck/eld
and Buchholz; y, M. beyond Buchholz the pedestrian, having
skirted the wood for a short distance, must enter it and proceed
to the Belvedere, p. 131.]

The road to Saxier and Schalkenmehren leads through
several peculiar volcanic valleys. The village of Schalken-
mehren, 3% M. to the N. of GiUenfeld, and the same distance
from Daun, is situated on the banks of the Sckalkenmehrer
Maar (or tarn) (1301 ft.), covering an area of 50 acres; on the
E. side is a peat-bog. The Alf flows out of the tarn on the
S. side. At the inn a good dish of pike may generally be
procured, but not desirable accommodation for the night.

The road to Daun leads along the W. bank of the lake,
and ascends the natural barrier which separates it from the
Weinf elder Maar (1475 ft.) The latter is nearly square (area
45 acres), and has no visible outlet. On its N. bank rises
the Weinf elder Kirche, a cemetery - chapel for the irillage of
Schalkenmehren.

The pedestrian should now leave the direct road to Daun,
and asceifd to the 1. on the N. W. bank of the tarn. There
is no regular path, but he must proceed in a W. direction
along the hill about half-way up; in about V2 hr. from the
Weinfelder Kirche he will reach the Gemundener Maar (1246 ft.),
the smallest of these tarns, situated 150 ft. above the bed of
the Lieser. The summit of *M&useberg (1735 ft.), the N.
side of which rises somewhat abruptly from the Gemundener
Maar, commands a remarkably fine view of a great portion
of the Eifel.

128 Route 33, GEMCNDEN.

The three above-mentioned tarns {^^Dauner Maare") lie
in an extensive tract of volcanic formations, consisting chiefly
of slag-sand, scoriae and occasionally of volcanic tufa. The
greatest breadth of this tract is from E. to W., from the
village of Mehren to the slopes of the valley of the Lieser;'
the only spot in it where the grauwacke is visible is low
down on the margin of the Weinfelder Maar.

From the Mauseberg the traveller must descend the heights
which bound the Gemiindener Maar on the E., and cross the
mountain-ridge, on the N. side of which he will reach the
footpath which leads from the Weinfelder Kirche (skirting a
portion of the tarn) to Daun; then descend to the high road
(from the Mauseberg to the road 1 M.) near the village of
Gemlindeii; from which the road leads through the valley
of the Lieser to Daun, 1 y^ ^' farther.

The little town of Daun (1254 ft.) (^Grethen, R. and B.
15 Sgr.; carriage to Gerolsteiu, Manderscheid, or Lutzerath
2^2 Thlr.; diligence every morning to Lutzerath to meet the
Coblenz and Treves coach ; night-diligence to Wittlich) is the
principal place in this district, picturesquely situated on the
brow of a mountain, and commanded by a modern building
founded on the ruins of the castle of the counts of Daun,
celebrated in the annals of Austrian warfare. Their arms
are still to be seen over the entrance of the building which
is now the residence of the royal head-forester.

To the N. about 1 Yj M. from the town, rises precipitously
the long, 'scorified ridge of a crater, called the Dauner-Lei
(Lei = cliff), from which a lava -stream of considerable size
descends westward towards the Lieserthal. About ^Vj M. to
the W. of Daun rises the Nerother Kopf (2000 ft.), another
volcanic cone, surmounted by a ruined castle.

The vicinity of Daun, especially in a N. W. direction,
possesses peculiar interest for the geologist. Here he finds,
more than in any other part of the Eifel, evidences of volcanic
agency in many places covered with minerals, which, in all }
probability partly issued from the beautifully and distinctly
formed craters. The district in which these formations occur
in such abundance covers an area of about 50 sqp M., ex-
tending N.W. to Hillesheim and Stefflen, from 'the former
place down the Kyllthal as far as Birresborn, and then £. to
Daun, and from Daun N. to Dockweiler and Df'eis. The
cones, which protrude from the surrounding grauwackian
and calcareous formations, are partly of a basaltic nature, but
far more frequently consist of slag, with well preserved craters
or traces of them.

Proofs of the former volcanic activity of this region are

Eifel. HOHENFELS. 55. Route. 129

most distinctly visible at the Scharteberg (2094 ft.), situated
to the S. of Kirchweiler. The summit of this mountain consists
of blistered-looking masses of slag which surround the extinct
<;rater. About 100 ft. lower the lava -streams commence,
extending towards the N., S. and £. The last of these
streams, though for the most part covered with scoriae and
volcanic sand is not only easily recognized in its distance
and extent by the protrusion of isolated rocks, but may be
more minutely inspected at the quarries of Steinhorn, The
lowest part consists of a porous and very slightly cleft
basaltic lava, the upper of slag, 3 — 5 ft in thickness, above
the latter is a layer of scoriae and volcanic sand, 20 ft.
thick, and, next to the surface of the earth, basaltic lava
(comp. p. 73).

The most considerable of these craters is the basin in
which the village of HohenfeU (1 Vj M. to the N. of Kirch-
w^eiler, see below) lies. The heights which surround the
village are entirely composed of masses of lava, often descend-
ing precipitously towards the interior; the highest part is
1825 ft., and the bed of the brook which issues from the
<'rater 1334 ft. above the level of the sea.

From the Erensberg^ (2134 ft.) (the highest point of this
part of the Eifel, situated to the N. of the road between
Steinhorn and Kirchweiler), the principal stream of lava, which
begins 200 ft. below the summit, extends in a N. direction,
past Dockweiler, nearly as far as Dreis. On the E. and S.
margins of the Dreiser Wether , a boggy meadow situated in
a hollow on the road-side, Vy, M. to the N. of Daun, are
frequently found masses containing olivine (some of them
iVs ft in diameter and weighing 30 lbs.), ejected by volcanic
action, and occurring in the deposits of the less compact
volcanic products which surround all these basaltic and lava
cones. From the summit of the Erensberg a fino view is
•obtained, and the ascent is recommended.

Travellers who desire to visit the most remarkable points
in the vicinity of Daun in the shortest possible time, should
•early in the morning, cross the hill from Daun into the valley
in which Neunkirchen and Steinhorn are situated; to the r. of
the latter rises the Felsherg, and to the 1. the Rimmerich, two
craters with lava streams; a little farther are the slag -moun-
tains of Neroth (p. 128). From Steinbom the path which ascends
A side-valley to the 1. must be taken, leading along the
southern slope of the lava - stream above described , and
crossing the Sckarteberg to the Erensberg] then by Hinter-
weiler and Hohenstein into the Kyllthal to Pelm and Gerolstein.
Babdbkbr's Rhine. 9

130 Route 33. GEROLSTEIN. Ei/eL

The whole walk, for which a guide (15 Sgr.) is almost in-
dispensable, occupies 5 — 6 hrs.

Except in a geological point of view the high road from
Daun to Gerolstein (12 M.) presents no objects of interest to
the pedestrian, till the Kyllthal at Pelm is reached, 3 M. from
Gerolstein. Where time is limited, a carriage should be
taken from Daun to Neunkirchen^ Steinborn (with mineral
spring), KirchweUery the highest point of the road, and Pelxn,
a village on the Kyil^ beautifully situated at the foot of the
"^Casselburg (1464), the considerable ruius of which look
down into the valley from a wooded basaltic peak, 300 ft.
above it. It was originally the seat of the knights of Castel-
berg, subsequently of the Counts of Manderscheid, and at a
later period of the Duke of Aremberg, and is now the pro-
perty of the state. In the Forsterhaus^ at the entrance to the
castle, good and moderate accommodation may be obtained.
The summit affords a fine prospect of the Kyllthal.

In the immediate vicinity of the castle, to the N. W., rises
a lava cone, the N. base of which consists of grauwacke,
and the S. of calcareous stone. Between this cone and the
Casselburg are deposits of scoriai and volcanic sand, and on
the S. side of the latter the calcareous stone is partly covered
with variegated sandstone.

The high and precipitous calcareous rocks (dolomite) on
the r. bank of the * Kyllthalj extending from Pelm to beyond
Gerolstein , give a grand and picturesque appearance to the
valley; indeed, in more respects than one, this is the finest
part of the whole Eifel, and abounds with fossil crabs, coral,
and shell -fish, belonging to the period when the whole of
this district was covered by the sea. The valley diverging
in a S. direction from Pelm to Gees is particularly rich in
these specimens, which may be purchased from the school-
master at Pelm, or Frau Scholz at Gerolstein.

Gerolstein (1218 ft.) {*Schreiber; carriage to Daun
2y2 Thlr. ; Clemen) is a village built on the narrow strip of
land between the rocks and the stream, and is commanded
by the ruins of a castle of the Counts of Manderscheid. At
the summit of the limestone mountain opposite is a small crater,
the Papenkaulf from which a narrow stream of lava descends
into the Kyllthal, and along the r. side of the valley as far
as Saresdorf.

About 3 M. farther down the valley, some distance before
reaching Birresbom, are situated the Mineral springs of the
same name, under a roof supported by pillars, on the r. bank
of the Kyll. It is the strongest and best-known of the mineral
waters of the Eifel, and is celebrated for its salubrious qualities.

Eifel MANDERSCHEID. 55. Route, 131

On a hill in the Gerolstein wood on the 1. bank of the stream
(not to be found without a guide), is a hole, the Brudeldreis,
2 ft. broad and 1 V2 ^*« deep, from which a stream of carbonic
acid gas issues. . In wet weather the hole is filled with water,
and the gurgling sound of the gas forcing its way up may
sometimes be heard 300 — 400 yds. off. At the margin the
bodies of mice, birds, &c., are frequently found suffocated
by the powerful fumes of the gas.

According to the plan proposed at p 126, the traveller
would now return to Daun, and proceed S. to Manderscheid,
9 M. distant. That part of the road which leads through the
Lieserthal offers many picturesque points of view. It passes
the village of Gemunden (IYj M.); the Maar (p. 127), on the
height to the 1., is about 5 min. walk from the road. From
this point the ascent of the Mduseberg may be made in less
than Vz ^^*

Below Weyershach {I'^j^ M.) in the Lieserthal are seen the
vast and lofty masses of lava enclosing the village of Ueders-
dorf, which lies 277 ft. above the bed of the Lieser. They
are believed to have proceeded from two extinct volcanoes,
one to the S. of Uedersdorf, the Weberlei (1453 ft.), and the
other (1698 ft.) to the N. W.

Manderscheid (1170 ft.) (* Fantenburg), a village of some
importance, lies on the table-land between the Lieser and the
Little Kyll. On the S. side, in a singularly picturesque and
striking situation, are two * Castles y perched on cleft and
jagged slate-rocks which rise precipitously from the Lieser.
They were the seat of the Counts of Manderscheid (whose
family became extinct in 1780), and are still well preserved.
In the beauty and grandeur of their situation they are surpassed
by none of the castles on the Khine.

High up in the wood at the back of the castle, a bare
spot is visible called the " fie/vec?ere ," a favorite resort of the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood on account of the view which
it commands. The ascent occupies nearly 1 hr.: the bridge
over the Lieser below mast be crossed, and the road followed
which gradually ascends through the wood, and at the top
crosses the fields in the direction of the church -tower of
Buchholz'j the wood must now be skirted on the S. then
in a W. direction, and finally entered. The view from
the summit is peculiar and grand, but less picturesque
than that from the bridge over the Lieser, or from the
N. slopes of the valley. From the Belvedere a footpath
descends in the direction of the valley, but it is a very
dangerous one, and the traveller should return by the same

132 Route 33. THE MOSENBERG. Ei/el.

road to Manderscheid (Diligence from Manderscheid through

Wittlich to Treves; to Bonti through Daun, Kelberg, and

Altenahr).

The folio-wing path (3 hrs. walk) between Daun and Manderscheid
is recommended in preference to the road, as the walk from Manderscheid
to the Belvedere (see above) is hereby saved. The pedestrian leaves the high
road at Gemuoden, and ascends to the I. passing the Gemundeuer and Wein-
felder Tarns. On the E. side of the latter he continues to skirt the height
(far below lies the Schalkenmehrer Maar, p. 127), through wood and across
moor. In the distance is seen the church-spire of Buchholz (see above), but
before it is reached two gullies and the villages of Brocksckeid and Eckfeld
must be passed. On reaching Bncbholz the path to the r. by the church
must be taken, leading to a sign-post indicating the way to Manderscheid to
the 1., and the "Waldweg" to the r., which leads to the Belvedere.

The finest and most remarkable point of the volcanic
mountains of the Eifel is the Mosenberg, 3 M. to the W. of
Manderscheid. The mountain with its three peaks cannot be
mistaken. About % M. from Manderscheid, before descending
into the valley of the Little Kyll, the traveller must take the
road to the 1. leading to Bettenfeld, the continuation of which
may be distinctly seen on the Mosenberg opposite.

The * Mosenberg (1626 ft.) is a long lava -mountain
extending from N. to S., and has four craters, the lava-walls
of which rise in the most grotesque shapes to the height of
50 ft. The masses of basalt and slag which form the summit
have here protruded through the grauwacke to a height of
240 ft. The N. crater was formerly filled with water, but
was drained in 1846 and now yields peat. The S. crater has
an opening from which a huge lava-stream (% M. in width)
has issued, and may be traced as far as Homgrahen^ where
it reaches the bed of the Little Kyll; the lava-clifFs here rise
perpendicularly to the height of 100 ft. The view is very
extensive and well repays the fatigue of the ascent. The
village of Bettenfeld lies on the table-land 1 M. to the W.
of the Mosenberg.

About lYa M. to the N. of the Mosenberg lies the Meer-
f elder Maar, formerly one of the largest of these volcanic
lakes, but now almost entirely drained. The scoriae and
volcanic sand of the Mosenberg extend as far as the heights
round the Meerfelder Maar, but may easily be distinguished
from the volcanic productions of the latter, being mingled
only at one spot. Meerfeld, on the W. side of the Maar,
is % M. from Bettenfeld, and 3 M. to the W. of Mander-
scheid.

From the Mosenberg a path leads S. into the valley to
NeumUhl (3 M.), where the Little Kyll falls into the Lieser.
The scenery of the valley, at all times pleasing, at some
points reaches almost to grandeur. The pedestrian, as before

RtDESHEIM. 34. Route. 133

stated, may effect a saving of 3 M. by taking this road
instead of returning to Manderscheid.

The road from Manderscheid to Wittiich (13 V2 M.; car-
riage 2 Thlr.), descends in numerous windings to Neumuhl
(3 M.), and ascends the opposite slopes in the same wa^; it
then leads for a short distance through wood and reaches the
unfertile moor on the table-land. At the villages of Gross-
(47, M.) and Minder -Litgen {^y^ M.) the land becomes more
fertile.

Beyond Minder - Litgen the road winds down into the
valley, 3 M. below, but by following a footpath, Yj M. from
the village, half the distance is saved. The *view over the
rich and fertile plain which sinks towards the Moselle, and
the mountains of the latter, rendered more picturesque by the
red sandstone which here takes the place of the grauwacke,
is -a pleasant conclusion to the tour.

Wittlich {*Po8(), district-town on the Lieser, is situated
in a fertile country where tobacco is much cultivated. Di-
ligence twice a day to Treves in 4 hrs.

A good road leads from Wittlich £. through Bombogen,
where two basaltic cones rise from the plain, to Uerzig (* Post)
on the Moselle, 6 M. distant.

34. The Bhine from Bingen to Mayenoe.

The Rheingau.

Railway on the 1. bank of the Rhine, »ee R. 35, to Hay e nee in V4 hr.

Bailway on the r. bank of the Rhine, see fi. 23. If time periniU, it is
preferable to ascend by

Steamboat in 2'/^ hrs. (down in IV4 hr.) to Mayence; piers at Bingen,
Eltville and Biebrich, small-boat stations at Riidesheim, Geisenheim, Oestrich
and Wallttf.

Pedestriant will be amply repaid by the walk from Riidesheim to Elt-
ville; this tract, the garden of the Rhine, is replete with interest. If a
carriage be employed, the driver should be expressly told to iuclode the
castle of Johannisberg in the excuision, otherwise the traveller will lose one
of the finest points on the Rhine.

Those who are already acquainted with the banks of the river may vary
their tour by proceeding from Geisenheim to Schloett Johannisberg (IV9 M.) ;'
thence, passing Schlos* Vollraths^ to Hallgarten (3 M.); by the Steinbergr
and across the Bos to Eberbach (2V4 If.); by the Lunatic Asylum of Eich-
berg to Kiderich (3 M.); thence to Eltville (I'AM.). Th« path leads chiefly
through vineyards, destitute of shade, but the castle of Johannisberg, the view
from the Bos, the monastery of Eberbach and the Gothic chapel at Kiderich
will amply reward the pedestrian.

Badesheim (* Darmstddter Ho/, R. and L. 1 fl., D. 1 fl.,
B. 24 kr., A. 18 kr.; * Rheinstein , an excellent second-class
house; Massmann; *Rheinischer Hof; * SchoH, confectioner and
restaurateur, near the station). The celebrated wine of the

134 Moute 34. GEISENHEIM. From Bingen

place is yielded by the vineyards immediately behind the
town. At the lower extremity is situated the castle of ^Brdm-
serburg^, or Niederburg, the property of Count Ingelheim. It
is a massive rectangular stone tower, 105 ft. long, 83 ft. broad,
and 60 ft. high, and is said to have been once a Roman fort.
The three vaulted stories belong to the 13th cent Till the
beginning of the 14th cent, it was a residence of the Arch-
bishops of Mayence; subsequently it became the property of
the knights of Rudesheim, and was occupied by the celebrated
Bromser family, whose family residence is in the vicinity of
the castle, and still well preserved. One of these knights
who had distinguished himself by destroying a dragon in the
Holy Land, and had escaped out of the hands of the
Saracens, vowed that, if he ever returned to Rudesheim, he
would devote his only daughter Gisela to the Church. The
latter had during her father's absence formed an attachment
to a young knight of a neighbouring castle, and heard with
dismay her father's fatal vow. The old crusader was in-
exorable, and Gisela in a fit of despair threw herself from
the tower of the castle into the Rhine. According to popular
belief her pale form still hovers about the ruined tower,
and her lamentations are heard mingling with the moaning
of the wind.

The Oberburg, or Boosenburg, an old tower to the rear
of the Bromserhurg ^ was for 300 years the property of the
Counts Boos; it now belongs to Count Schonborn.

On the opp. bank of the Rhine rises the Rochuaberg, sur-
mounted by the Rochuscapelle y a conspicuous object in the
landscape, at the foot of which is situated the Villa Landy;
farther on are the villages of Kempten and (rail, stat.) Gauh-
heim.

The clean little town of Geisenlieini {*Stadt Frankfurt;
Wyneken) contains a handsome red sandstone church of the
15th cent, with a modem portal and openwork Gothic
towers. The country residence of the Zwierlein family con-
tains a collection of stained glass which deserves inspection.
The garden contains about 600 different species of vines.
The wine of this district, especially the Rothenberger, is
highly esteemed.

On the hill behind Geisenheim, near the village of Eibingen, is seen the
former nunnery of that name, founded in 1148, secularized in 1S02, and again
appropriated to divine worship in 1835. Farther to the N. E. are the rem-
nants of another convent, founded in 1390. About V4 M. farther N. (2'/4 M.
from Riidesheim) is the convent of Marienthal^ picturesquely situated iu
a forest.

'''Schloss Johannisberg, situate on a vine-clad eminence,
340 ft. above the Rhine, is a conspicuous object in the land-

to Mayence, JOHANNISBERG. 3L Route. 135

scape, and visible from a great distance. The castle with its
two wings was erected in 1716 by the Abbot of Fulda, on
the site of a Benedictine convent founded by an Archbishop
of Mayence in 1106. On the secularization of the Abbey of
Fulda in 1802, the castle became the property of tho Prince
of Orange, in 1805 it was presented by Napoleon to the
French Marshal Kellermann, and in 1814 it was given by the
Emperor of Austria to the late Prince Metternich as an
imperial fief. The vineyards, which occupy an area of about
40 acres, and yield an annual income of 6 — 7000/., are most
carefully cultivated, and once took the lead among the vine-
yards of the Rhine; but of late years there has been a great
rivalry between the two estates of Johannisberg and Steinberg,
in some years the latter realizing the higher price. The *view
from the balcony of the castle is very fine (fee 24 kr.; good
Johannisberger in the restaurant at 5 fl. per bottle), and com-
prises the whole course of the Rhine from Mayence to Bingen.
The Chapel, founded in the i2th cent, and restored at a more
recent date, contains a monument to the eminent historian
and tutor to the Prince, Nic. Vofft, who died a senator of
Frafikfurt, but was interred here by his own wish.

At the foot of the Johannisberg lies the '* AT/awse" (hermi-
tage), the remnant of an ancient nunnery, founded in the
12th cent. In the' vicinity is a hydropathic and pine-cone-bath
establishment. Winkel is 1, and Geisenheim 1 V2 M. distant.

Mittelheixn, with the borough of Winkel (Rheingauer
Hof)^ forms one long street, long enough, according to Goethe,
to exhaust the patience of all who traverse it. At the W.
extremity is situated a country residence of M, Brentano-Bir-
kenstock of Frankfurt, mentioned in Goethe's "Correspondence of
a Child", and containing various reminiscences of the poet

At Oestrich {Jf/lund) the inhabitants of the Rheingau
formerly swore allegiance to the newly elected Archbishops of
Mayence, who came here for the purpose, and were obliged
first to confirm the rights and privileges of the land. The
village with its projecting crane, and the castle of Johannisberg
in the background, forms a most picturesque scene.

On the hill-side behind Oestrich lies the village of Hallgarten in the
aiidst of vioeyards, and near it the well preserved castle of Voliraths, erected
about the year 1362 by a member of the family von Folraz, in whose posses-
sion it continued till a few years age.

Before reaching the village of Hattenheizn (^Laroche),
the road passes Schloss Reichartshausen , situated in a small
park (1 M. from Oestrich), once a depot for the wines of
Eberbach, now the seat of Count Schonborn.

136 Route 34, ELTVILLE. From Bingen

Between Hattenheim und Erbach lie the three islands of
Sandau, Langwertherau, and Rheinau. On the L side of the
roi^d between these two villages is situated the Markhrunnen
(or boundary-well) adjacent to which are the vineyards, now
intersected by the railway, which yield the Markobrunner, one
of the most highly prized Rhenish wines.

Erbach {Engel; Walifisch), mentioned as early as 980, is
concealed from the steamboat passenger by the long island of
Rheinau. At the W. extremity of the village is situated the
country residence of the Princess Albrecht of Prussia.

A broad path leads inland from Erbach to the ouce celebrated and
richly endowed Cistercian Abbey of Eberbaeh, founded by 8t. Bernhard of
Clairvaux in 1131, and situated in one of those lonely valleys which this
order always selected for the site of their monasteries. Henee the Latin
proverb :

Bernardus valles, monies Benedictus amabat,
Oppida Franci»cus, celebret Ignatius urbes.

The Abbey was secularized in 1P03 and soon afterwards converted into
a Honse of Correction. The building was erected at various periods from
the 12th to the 15th cent. The Romanesque convent -chui*ch, consecrated
in 1186, and recently restored, contains a number of * Monuments^ most of
them of Abbots of the 12th — 19th cent., and interesting in an artistical a»
well as historical point of view. The handsome Gothic monument which
encloses the gravestones of the Archbishop of Mayence Gerlach (d. 1371) and
Adolph JI. , Count of Nassau (d. 1474), particularly deserves inspection.
The Refectory, belonging to the 13th cent., is now occupied by wine-presses,
and the cellars below are employed by the Duke of Nassau for the celebrated
^'Cabinet" wines, the most choice production of the vineyards of ttye Shein*
gau. In the immediate vicinity is the celebrated Steinberg vineyard, care-
fully cultivated by the industrious monks of Eberbaeh ever since the end
of liie 12th cent. It covers an area of upwards of 60 acres, and now belongs
to the Duke. The *Bo8 (obsolete word = hill), an eminence close to the
monastery, commands a magnificent prospect, embracing the whole of the
Steinberg vineyard. To the E. of the Eberbaeh valley are seen in the
distance the handsome buildings of the Asylum of Eichberg.

At Eltville or Elfeld {Rkeingaiier Hof; Engel; Rheinbahn
Hotel), formerly the capital of the Rheingau, the German king
Griinther of Schwarzbnrg resigned his royal dignity, when
hard pressed and besieged by his opponent Charles IV. In
the 14tb and 15th centuries Eltville was a residence of the
Archbishops of Mayence, to which they often resorted to
escape from civic broils, and contained the archiepiscopal
mint. Here too was erected one of the first printing-presses
in 1465, 50 years after the first invention of the art, and
before the death of Gutenberg. The tall and handsome watch>
tower with the arms of the founder, and the adjoining castle-
wall are the sole remnants of a castle erected by Balduin,
Archbishop of Treves, in 1330, who was at that time High-
steward of Mayence; the church -spire belongs to the same
date. Eltville is also a favorite residence of several members
of the German nobility, whose country-seats give a handsome

to Mayence, BIEBRICH. 34. Route, 137

appearance to the place. Diligence to Schlangenbad and
Schwalbach see p. 89.

About I'/a M. to the N. W. lies the large village of Kiederioh {* Fischer;
Pape; Krone) formerly a favorite resort of pilgrims, "Where the church of
St. Valentine, and the * St. Michaelscapette, erected in 1440 in the later
Gothic style, restored in 1858, are "well worth a visit. Near Kiederich is-
situated the Grafenberg, one of the most celebrated vineyards of the Rhein-
gau, surmounted by the castle of ScAarfenstein, erected by the Archbishops
of Mayence at the close of the 12th cent., disnautled by the Swedes in 1632^
and finally by the French in 1682.

Beyond Eltville several country- residences, situated in
carefully kept vineyards, are passed; the island opposite is
tastefully laid out as a pleasure-ground. The church-spire of
Hauenthal is visible on the hills in the background. The
*Rauenthaler Hohe (p. 155), one of the finest points of view
in the Rbeingau, may be reached from Eltville in % hr. The
road from Eltville or Niederwallnf to Schlangenbad and Schwal'
bach unites at Neudorf (Krone) with the Biebrich and Schlangen*
bad high-road.

At the village of Niederwallnf (*Schtvan; Gartenfeld)y
mentioned in an old record as early as 770, the rich wine-
tract of the Rheingau terminates. The entire district was in
ancient times surrounded by a thick and impenetrable barrier,
formed by a belt of trees, 50 yds. in width, planted close
together, their branches being so interwoven as to form a
gigantic hedge.

At the ancient village of Schierstein (Dm Kronen), which
stands in the midst of one vast orchard, M. Habel, the keeper
of the Ducal archives, has a collection of pictures and antiquities
which deserves a visit. About 1 '/j M. inland are situated the
ruins of the castle of Frauenstein and the village {Weisses
Ross) of that name.

Biebrich {* Rheinischer Hof; Beilevue; European Hotel;
prices as in Mayence, p. 38; Krone, where good beer may
be procured; Lowe. English Church service on Sundays in.
the Ducal chapel), which, with the adjoining village of ICos-
bach, forms one to'^n, and is the summer residence of the
Duke of Nassau. At the upper end of the town is situated
a large new barrack, and at the lower, the Ducal palace,
erected in 1706 in the "renaissance" style. The group of
statues with which the centre is adorned was much injured
in 1793 during the siege of Mayence, by the French batteries
on the island of Petersau, whilst the Palace was occupied by
Prussian troops. The garden and park, nearly 1 M. in length,
are well kept, and abound with beautiful walks. The ex-
tensive hot-house, constructed in 1850, containing arbours,
seats, and fountains, forms a delightful winter- garden. The

*ges on

residence
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138 Route 35, MAYENCE.

«fuall castle in the palace-garden, built in the middle ages on
the site of the old imperial palace Biburk^ once the residence
of Louis the Pious, is fitted up in the Gothic style, and
contains monuments of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen, brought
from the Abbey of Eberbach (p. 136). Biebrich is connected
with the Taunus railway by a horse-railway, with Wiesbaden
by the Rheingan line, and also by an omnibus (24 kr. with
lugg&ge) which runs to meet the steamboats.

Soon after leaving Biebrich the steamboat passes between
two islands, that of Ingelsheimer Au on the r. and Petersau
on the 1. ; on the latter, where he had a summer residence,
the emperor Louis the Pious, the son and successor of Charle-
inagne, expired, June 20th, 840, in the 64th year of his age.
His body was conveyed to Metz and there interred.

The steamboat-pier at Mayence is at the lower end of the
town, below the bridge of boats, and a considerable distance
from the railway station, situated on the Rhine at the upper
end. Conveyances etc. see below.

36. Mayence.

Hotels. On the Rhine: ^Rhenish Hotel, R. 1, L. 18, B. 36, D. 1 fl.
^0, A. 24 kr.; *Hdtel de Hollande, soroe^bat more moderate; English
Hotel; Victoria Hotel. — Hotel de Cologne; *Hdtel de Mayence,
U. 48 kr., D. 1 fl., A. 18 kr., restaurant on the ground- floor; Stadt
Cnblenc; Hdtel Taunus. — In the town: Karpfen, opp. the post-
office; Schiitxenhof, opp. the cathedral; *Landsberg, Lohrgasse. —
In Cast el, near the station: * Hotel Barth. R. 1 fl., B. 30, A. 18 kr.;
Taunus Hotel, more moderate; both of these hotels are conveniently
situated for travellers arriving or departing by the Taunus line. Anker,
a good third-class house.

Caf68. Rheinisches Kaffehaus, opposite to the Rhine bridge;
near it, Cafe Frau^ais. In the Theaterplatz, Cafi de Paris.

Battaurants. Volk, in the Emmeransgasse (only in the evening),
:good wines, game of all kinds according to the season. Rothes Ha us,
in the Theaterplatz. Cafe de Paris. Anker (see above), in Castel,
Bavarian beer.

Baths, cold and warm, near the railway station. Swimming-bath
outside of the Neuthor.

Hilitary mnaio on Wednesdays at 12 o'clock In the Schillerplats , per-
■formed by the band of the Prussian garrison; on Thursdays in the Palace-
.square by the Austrian band. Once a week, from 5 to 8, military concert
in the new Aulage (p. 145).

BaOway Stations. Trains for Cologne (R. 36), Ludwigtha/en (R. &5),
Frankfurt (by direct way R. 40) and Darmstadt (R. 41) start from the
Mayence station on the Rhine, at the upper end of the town; for Frank-
furt and Wiisbaden from Castel (p. 167). — Steam ferry-boat, omnibus
and carriages from station to station see below.

Steamboats (see Introd.). The steamboats for the Lower Rhine have
their landing-place below the railway bridge, at Mayence as well as
at Castel, where they are in direct correspondence with the Taunus Rail-
Carriages in Mayence. One-horse for »/4 *>'•» 1— ^ P*"^- *® .V'* *"*
pers. 13 kr.. by the hour 48 kr. or 1 fl. Two-horse carciage about % more«

MAYENCE. .35, Route. 139

For waiting, half the abuve charges. Trunk 6 kr., smaller packages free.
Bridge-toll (16 kr.) charged extra. — In Cast el charges somewhat higher.

Porterage. From the steamboat or station to the hotels on the Rhine:
Trunk under 50 lbs. 6 kr., over 50 lbs. 9 kr., smaller packages 3 kr., or
several together 6 kr. To Castel, see p. 42.

English Chnroh in the Clara Strasse. Chaplain resident.

The Town-gates are dosed at 10 p.m., and admission is denied to all
«xcept travellers arriving by the public conveyances, or persons furnished
-with a card from the military head-quarters of the town.

The traveller whose time is limited had better inspect the town as follows;
Cathedral and monuments (p. 141), Gutenberg monument (p. 143), Eigelsteiii
(s. below), collections in the Palace (p. 144), and spend the evening iu the
new Aniage (p. 145), iu Wiesbaden (p. 149), or iu the Palace - garden at
Biebrich.

Mayence, or Maim, lies below the confluence of the Main
and the Rhine, and is amongst the most interesting of the
Rhenish towns in an historical point of view. Its important
strategic situation has in all ages attracted the attention of
the different nations to whom the Rhine has belonged. As
early as B.C. 38, Vipsanius Agrippa caused a camp to be
pitched on the spot where Mainz now stands, for the security
of his line of defence against the Germanic tribes. In the
year B.C. 14, Augustus sent his son-in-law Drusus to the
Rhine as commander-in-chief, and to him Mayence owes its
foundation. The camp which he pitched was called the
Castellum Magontiacum, and occupied the whole of the table-
land between Mainz and Zahlbach, as is proved by the
abundant Roman remains still to be seen in the vicinity of
the town. In order the more effectually to secure the passage
of the Rhine, a second Castellum was soon afterwards con-
structed on the opposite side of the river by Drusus, from
which the present Castel derives its origin and name. Many
traces have been recently discovered of the four roads which
led from the Castellum Magontiacum in different directions,
and milestones which belonged to them are exhibited with
other Roman relics in the Palace (p. 144).

Within the walls of the Citadel is the ^Eigelstein, a
monument erected by the 2nd and 14th Legions in honour of
Drusus {^^exercitus honorarium tumulum excitavit". Sueton.
Claud. 1.). The name is believed to have been derived from
the aquila or aigle, with which the tower was formerly
surmounted. The external masonry has long since disappeared,
and the height and form of the monument have undergone
many changes. It is now a grey circular mass of stone,
42 ft. in height; the interior was furnished with a spiral
stair-case in 1689; the summit commands a view of the town
and environs. Cards of admission at the Platz - Commando
(military head-quarters) in the Schillerstrasse. The visitor is
accompanied by a soldier who shows the tower (fee 12 kr.).

140 Route 35. MAYENCE. Aqueduct.

Excavations made in the former half of the last century-
led to the discovery of the hexagonal reservoir which supplied
the Roman fortress with water, and was situated near the
Gauthor, on the spot now occupied by the ^^ Entenpfuhi"
(duck-pond). An * Aqueduct, of which 62 pillars, some of
them 30 ft. in height, still exist, out of the 500 it is
said once to have been supported by, conveyed the water to
this basin. Remains of the pillars are to be seen near Zahl-
bachy y4 M. to the S. W. of Mayence, not far from the
Stahlberg. In an acacia-plantation on a rising ground to the 1.,
once the burial-ground of the Romans, a number of Roman
tombstones have been erected on the spot where they were
discovered. The spring which the aqueduct connected with
the Castrum is called the KonigB-Born^ and is situated at
Finthen {Fontance) on the road to Bingen, 5 M. from
Mayence.

Mayence, with other places, claims to have been the scene
of Conistantine's vision of the Cross, as described in his letter
to Eusebius, in 311, when he set out with his legions on his
expedition against Maxentius. But besides this traditional
distinction Mayence may unquestionably claim to be the oldest
Archiepiscopal See in Germany, and the English traveller may
be interested to know that the first Archbishop was St. Boni-
face, a native of England, who was raised to this high dignity
by Pope Zachary in 746. He is generally called the Apostle
of the Germans. It has been erroneously asserted that Boni-
face was of royal descent, but he was the son of a wheel-
wright, and so little ashamed of his parentage that he bore
wheels in his arms, which out of compliment to him have
been invariably assumed by his successors in the See of
Mayence. The founder of the Rhenish Towns' Confederation
(1254) was a citizen of Mayence, and his native town thus
became the central point of this powerful and influential
society. It was at that time celebrated for its commercial
prosperity, which gained for it the title of the " Golden Mainz."
Two centuries later it was deprived of its extensive privileges
by the Archbishop Adolf of Nassau, and from that time it
lost its freedom and remained subject to the Archiepiscopal
jurisdiction.

On Oct. 22nd, 1792, the French republicans under Custiue,
wearing their red Jacobite caps, entered the town almost
without a blow, but it was retaken by the Prussians under
Kalkreuth in the following year. It became French in 1797
by the peace of Campo Formio, and was the capital of the
department of Donnersberg till 1814, when it was assigned

Cathedral MAYENCE. 35. Route, 141

to the Grand-duchy of Hessen. Population 42,000 (7000 Prot. ,
3000 Jews).

Mayence is the strongest Fortress of the German Con-
federation. It is surrounded by a threefold line of forti-
fications: 1st, the chief rampart consisting of 14 bastions with
the citadel already mentioned; 2nd, a line of advanced forts,
connected by glacis ; 3d, by still more advanced intrenchments,
erected partly by the Prussian, partly by the Austrian en-
gineers, of which the principal are the Weissenauer Lager,
the Hartenburg , and the Binger Thurm. On the N. side of
. the town stands the vast Military Hospital, facing the Schloss-
platz. In time of peace the garrison consists of 3000 Prussian,
and a similar number of Austrian troops; in time of war the
number is trebled.

The *Doin, or Cathedral, was founded in 978 by Arch-
bishop Willigis. Six times it suffered more or less from fire,
and on each occasion was restored and enlarged in the style
of the age; it therefore affords specimens of the architecture
of the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, and is in this respect
well worthy of inspection. During the siege of 1793 every
thing of a combustible nature in it was destroyed by fire.
At the commencement of the French period it served as a
hay magazine, but was restored to its sacred uses in 1804.
On Nov. 9th, 1813, after the retreat of the French at the
battle of Leipsic, 6000 men took up their quarters in the
edifice, and again the benches and wood- work became a
prey to the flames. During the siege of 1814 it was ignobly
employed as a slaughter»house by the garrison, and subsequently
as a salt and corn magazine. Since then it has been kept
sacred as a place of worship, and is indebted for its restoration
to the architect MoUer of Darmstadt. The E. round towers
•belong to the most ancient part of the structure, and the £.
fronton and choir to the beginning of the 12th cent.; the W.
choir was erected in 1239, and the cloisters in 1412. The
octagonal *''' Pfarrtkurm^' is surmounted by a cupola of cast
iron, designed by Moller. The two brazen gates on the N.
side, at the entrance from the market place, formerly be-
longed to the Liebfrauenkirche. The inscriptions which they
bear were engraved in 1135, and record the various privileges
granted to the town by the Archbishop Adalbert I. out of
gratitude for his liberation from the hands of Henry V.,
and an enumeration of his grievances and the cause of his
imprisonment.

The vaulted Interior of the church, which rests on 56 pillars,
is richer in tombstones and monuments of Electors, Arch-
bishops, and other dignitaries, than any other church in Ger-

142 Route 35, MAYENCE. GatkeStaL

many. The most interesting of these are the following, be-
ginning with the aisle on the r., at the N. entrance. (The
attendance of the sexton is qaite unnecessary). The monument
of the Canon von Breidenbach, 1497; von Gablentz, 1572. —
N. aisle. On the Ist pillar, the monument of Albert of
Brandenburg, Elector of Mainz, and Archbishop of Magdeburg
(the statue admirably executed, and said to be a faithful
likeness), 1545; in a chapel opposite, the monument of the
family of Brendel von Homburg, a well- executed Adoration
of the Cross in stone, 1563; on the 4th pillar, Adalbert of
Saxony, administrator of the Archbishopric, 1484; on the 6th
pillar, opposite to the pulpit, the Elector Dethier of Isenburg,
1482; on the altar at the side, St. Boniface (p. 140), a relief
of 1357. — S. aisle. On the 7th pillar, the Elector Damian
Hartard v. d. Leien, 1678; on the 4th pillar, the * Elector
Berthold von Henneberg, 1504, the finest monument in the
cathedral, and said to have been executed at Rome.

On the 1. side of the entrance to the cloisters, a stone-
tablet is built into the wall, with an inscription to the
memory of Fastrada, the third wife of Charlemagne, who
died at Frankfurt in 794, and was interred in the church of
St. Alban*s (destroyed in 1552 by the Markgrave Albrecht
of Brandenburg), whence the tablet was removed to its present
position.

The S. part of the transept contains more modern monu-
ments, amongst which the only object deserving of particular
inspection is the fine head of Saturn which surmounts the
monument of the Canon von Breidenbach -Burresheim. The
well -executed monument of the Archbishop Conrad II. von
Weinsberg belongs to the year 1396.

The Memorie, or Chapter-house, erected in 1248, adjoins
the cathedral, and now forms an entrance-hall to the Clois-
ters, constructed in 1412. The latter are the best preserved
of all structures of this description in the Rhineland; they
served as a place of exercise for the clergy, and afforded an
opportunity for the observance of the monastic rule: ''^post
ccenam stabis, 8eu passtis mille yneabts."

The Memorie and the recently restored Cloisters contain
several monuments worthy of note. On the S. wall is * Schwan-
thaler's monument to Frauenloby a female figure decorating a
coffin with a wreath, erected by the ladies of Mayence in
1842, in memory of the Minnesanger Count Heinrich von
Meissen (d. 1318), surnamed Frauenlob (women's praise), "the
pious minstrel of the Holy Virgin, and of female virtue and
piety." Beyond it, on the E. wall, is a remarkable * Sculpture y
brought in 1839 from the Capuchins* garden, representing the

Kastrich. MAYENCE. 35, Route. 143

reconciliation of the clergy with the townspeople after the
insurrection of 1160, in which the Archbishop Arnold lost
his life. Near it is an older tombstone of Frauenlob, erected
in 1783, a copy of the original of 1318, which had been
accidentally destroyed by some workmen.

The cathedral is open in the morning till 11^2 o'clock,
and in the afternoon from 2 to 6. The view from the sum-
mit of the tower (283 ft.) is similar to that from the Eigel-
stein, but less extensive than the prospect commanded by the
Stephansthurm (p. 145).

Near the cathedral is the Gutenbergsplatz , so called by
order of Napoleon in 1804. It is adorned with a * Statue
of Gutenberg (d. 1468; (PI. 24), designed by the Danish
sculptor Thorwaldsen and executed at Paris, the expenses
being defrayed by subscriptions from all parts of Europe.

The Theatre (PI. 29) was erected in 1833 by Moller, and
is, excepting the instances at Dresden and Carlsruhe, the
only modern edifice of the kind , the use of which is in-
dicated by its external form. The Hall of Industry in the
E. wing is a kind of bazaar, principally of wares manufactured
in the place. The furniture and leather goods of Mayence
have long enjoyed a high reputation.

The Fruchthalle (PI. 8), or Fruit-market, lies to the W.
of the theatre, and is one of the largest buildings of the kind
in Germany. The interior can be converted into a concert
or ball-room by the addition of a moveable ceiling and floor,
and is capable of containing 7 — 8000 persons.

If the traveller now return to the theatre and follow the
broad Ludwigsstrasse in a W. direction, he will reach the
Schillerplatz (formerly Thiermarkt), a rectangle planted with
lime-trees, bounded on the S. side by the Government buildings,
and on the W. by the Prussian Barracks and Military Casino,
where a bronze Statue of Schiller was erected in 1862.
The pillar of the fountain is said to have been brought from
the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, and the Schillerplatz
itself was in Roman times the Forum gentile, or market-place
of the fortress.

(A new, broad street leads from the Schillerplatz to the
Kastrich, a vine-clad eminence formerly occupied by a powder-
magazine, accidentally blown up in 1857, where a new quarter
with a terrace, commanding an extensive view of the town
and its environs, is in course of construction.)

Near the N. extremity of the Schillerstrasse are the Govern-
ment buildings, passing which and turning to the E., the traveller
enters the Qrosse Bleiche, the longest (800 yds.) street in
Mayence, which bounds the old part of the town and leads

144 Route 35. MAYENCE. Elector, Palace,

to the Rhine. On the N. side of this street are situated the
Residence of the Commandant and the old Library buildings.
In the small square to the 1. is the Neubrunnen, a pillar with
symholical reliefs, erected at the commencement of the last
century; the base is adorned with representations of river-gods.
The building with the gilt horse, farther down the street,
formerly the stables of the Electors, is now used as cavalry-
barracks.

On the r. at the E. extremity of the street, where it enters
the large Palace square, is situated the Church of St. Peter
(PI. 18), erected in 1751, and formerly Court-church of the
Electors. The interior contains little to interest the traveller.

The Palace of the Electors (PI. 3) forms the N.E. point
of the town. It was erected in 1627 — 1678 and was the re-
sidence of the Electors till 1792; during the French war it
served as a hay-magazine, and afterwards as a depot for the
cargoes of vessels. It is now occupied by different collections
of objects of interest. That of Roman monuments is the
richest in Germany. These, as well as the picture-gallery,
are open to the public on Wednesdays from 2 to 5, and on
Sundays from 9 to 12 o'clock. At other times cards of ad-
mission (12 kr.) may be procured at the "Octroi" at the S.
side of the building.

The *Roinan antiquities consist of altars, votive - tablets, sarcophagi,
and tombstones of Roman soldiers with sculptures and inscriptions. — The
Roman-Germanic Museum contains upwards of 2000 casts of relics of
the Roman-Germanic period down to the time of Charlemagne. The Collec-
tion of coins contains between two and three thousand Roman specimens,
about 1800 of the town of Mayence from Charlemagne to the fall of the
Electorate, and 1500 of modern times. — The Library possesses 100,000
vols., among which are old impressions by Guteuberg, Faust, and Schoffer,
dating from 1459 — 1462. The Natural hist, collection is also one oif
considerable value, especially the zoological portion.

The ^Picture-gallery belongs to the town and the Art-union; the best
paintings were presented by Napoleon I. The following by well-know^n masters
are among the most interesting: 1st Room: 98. Cattle by Snydera, the figures
by Rubens; 97. The Duck-stealer, by Murillo. 2nd Room: 4. Filial affection, by
THtian; 75. The Rape of Europa, by G. Reni. 3d Room: 185. Woman in the
ancient German costume, by the younger Holbein; 6. Adam and Eve, by Al-
brecht Durer; 108—110. St. Hieronymus, Adoration of the infant Jesus, and
the young Tobias, three fine pictures by Gaudenzio Ferrari. 4th Room: 173.
Portrait of a Cardinal, by Velasquez. 5th Room: 96. David anointed king
by Samuel, by Rubens. 7th Room: 5. Adoration of the shepherds, by Luc.
Giordano; 121. Coronation of the Virgin, by Agostino Carracci. The 8th
Room contains modern pictures. 9th Room: 27. John in the wilderness, by
Agost. Carracci; 3. Madonna receiving the scapulary, by Annib. Carracci;
92. St. Franciscus, by Guercino.

Opposite to the Electoral Palace, to the S., is situated the
House of the Teutonic Order, now fitted up as a Grand-ducal
Palace (PI. 5), connected with which is the Arsenal (PI. 41),
containing collections of old armour and weapons, as well as

Church of St Stephen. MAYENCE. 35, Route. 145

large stores of modern engines of warfare, but of little interest
to persons who have Tisited more important collections. Cards
of admission may be procured gratis at the Artillery-office at
the corner of the Grosse Bleiche and the Bahnhofstrasse.

On an eminence to the N. W. of the Citadel is situated
the Ghiuch of St. Stephen (PI. 19), erected in 1318, and
restored in 1857. It contains three aisles of nearly equal
height, a form rarely seen in the churches of the Rhineland.
The octagonal tower (210 ft.), the base of which is 100 ft.
above the Rhine, commands the finest view in the whole town.
To procure admission the visitor must ring at the door of the
N. tower. The interior contains but few objects of interest
The Cloisters are remarkable for their tastefully constructed
ceilings and windows.

t The ^Oemetery, once the burial-place of the Roman legions,
and of the most ancient Christian church (St. Alban's), is
situated 4>n an eminence in the vicinity of Zahlbach (p. 140),
and deserves a visit on account of the beauty of its situation,
as well as of the monuments it contains.

The Neue Anlag^ (* Voltz^s Restaurant), or new public
grounds, are situated on a slight eminence, near the
Neuthor, on the site of the electoral Lustsehloss Favorite^
where on July 25th, 1792, the well-known manifesto of the
Duke of Brunswick addressed to the French nation was
framed by a large assembly of princes. The fine view from
the grounds embraces the town, the river, and thie Taunus
mountains.

The Mainspitze (or promontory of the Main), opposite to
the Nene Anlage, is occupied by a bombproof fort commanding
the two rivers. Near it are the remnants of a hexagonal
star-fort, erected by Gustavus Adolphus. At this point the
river is crossed by the railway -bridge of the Aschaffenburg-
Darmstadt-Mainz line, opened Nov. 22nd, 1862.

Mayence is connected with Castel (see p. 167) by a
bridge of boats, 740 yds. in length (toll 2 kr.), below
which, when the water is low, remnants of pillars may
be seen, probably the supports of the wooden bridge built
by Charlemagne in 793 — 803, afterwards ignited by light-
ning and burned to the water's edge. The greater number
of the 17 water-mills are attached to these foundation
pillars. Castel is also strongly fortified its, line of forti-
fications being connected with those of Mayence. By railway
from Castel to Wiesbaden in 20 min., to Frankfurt in 1 hr.,
see p. 166.

BAaDSKBK's Rhine. ^^

146

86. From Mayence to Cologne.

Railway Journey. (Comp. Maps R. R. 24, I'i and 4.)

By the Hessian - Ludwig Railway to Bingen, theuce by the Rheuish
fine to Cologne; by express in 4 hrs. 35 min., by ordinary trains io 5'/« —
5V« hrs.; fares: 4Th]r. 25, 3 Thlr. 15. or S Thir. lOfigr. Return tickets
are valid for 3 days for the 3d cl., and for 5 days for the Ist and 2nd cl. ;
passengers provided with the latter ma^ break the Journey twice, provided
they get their tickets stamped on leaving the carriage. — 50 lbs. of luggage
free. — View of the Rhine to the r. only.

The train traverses the fortifications of Mayence, and near
Stat. Momhach passes opp. to Biehrich (p. 137). The district
between Mayence and Bingen is flat and uninteresting. Ttie
first station of importance is

Nieder-Ingelheixn {Post; Lowe; Hirsch), where a cele-
brated palace of Charlemagne, described by ancient historians
and poets as an edifice of great magnificence, once stood.
Mosaics, marble sculptures, and other works of art, were sent
in 784 by Pope Hadrian I. from the palace of Ravenna to adorn
the building. The granite columns of the fountain at the
castle of Heidelberg (p. 183) were once in the palace of
Ingelheim, and other relics from it are to be seen at Mayence,
Bberbach, &c. At Ingelheim the convocation of the bishops
of Mayence, Cologne, and Worms, who dethroned Henry IV.,
assembled on Deo. 30th, 1105.

An obelisk on the S. side of the village marks the road
begun by Charlemagne, and completed by Napoleon. From
this point a fine prospect of the entire Rheingau is obtained.
The red wines of Ingelheim and Heidesheim (*Friederich)
opposite to Eltville (p. 136) enjoy a high reputation. In the
district between this and Mayence are numerous quarries of
limestone, composed of innumerable snail -shells {Litorinelli)^
which is conveyed by the returning coal-barges to the Lower
Rhine and Holland, and burned in the numerous lime -kilns
on the banks of the river.

On the opposite (r.) bank of the river rises the castle of
JohanntBherg (p. 134). The train now skirts the base of the
Rochusberg and stops at the station of

Bingen (R. 26), where the finest scenery of the Rhine
commences. (For a more minute description of the banks
of the river between Bingen and Coblenz see RR. 24, 25).
The Nahe is now crossed at some distance below the old stone
bridge, and BingerbrClck {Hotel Rheinatein; Ruppertsberg)
reached. Opp. to it is the Mouse Tower (p. 105), and in the
immediate vicinity, the station of the Rhine-Nahe line (R. 27).
As the train leaves Bingerbruck, a beautiful retrospective view
of the distant Rheingau may be obtained.

BACHARACH. 36, Route. HI

From Bacharacli to Oberwesel, see pp. 101, 100. The
delightfully situated town of Oberweael is next reached;
station at the upper end of the town, near the Church.
After passing through two tunnels, the traveller obtains a
glimpse of the *Ltirlei (p. 98) on the r. bank. The train
now enters a tunnel penetrating the rocks near the *'Bank,"
on emerging from which it stops at

8t. Goar (p. 96); beyond the town the base of the
ancient fortress of RheinfeU is skirted. On the opp. bank,
above the village of Wehnicht rises the Maus (p. 96); farther
down, the castles of Liebenstein and Sterrenhery. The station
of Boppard is in the rear of the town. Beyond Boppard the
village of Osternpay and the picturesque, white castle of
Lieheneck are seen on the r. bank. The train next passes
through the village of Brey^ opp. to Braubach and the castle
of Marksbury (p. 93), and the small but ancient town of
Rhense, beyond which, to the r. is situated the Koniysstuhi
(p. 92). Stat. Capelien is situated at the foot of Stolzen/eis,
and opp. to the castle of Lahneck and Oberlahnstein (railway
to Ems and Limburg, see R. 22), with which it is connected
by a steam ferry-boat. — Opp. to the island of Oberwerth the
train quits the bank of the Rhine, skirts the base of Fort
Gonstantine and traverses the fortifications of

Oobleuz, see R. 20. From the station little or nothing
can be seen of the town. As the train crosses the Moselle
a fine view is obtained of Ehrenbreitstein to the r., rising
above the arches of the stone bridge. At the foot of the
fortified Petersbery , to the 1. , is situated the monument of
Marcean (p. 80). A pleasing view is now obtained of Neu-
wied, commanded by the chateau of Monrepos, to the r. ; above
the village of Wetasenthurm^ to the 1., rise the monument of
General Hochc (p. 67) and the ancient boundary tower. The
station of

Neuwied (p. 66) is situated 1 M. from the town, which
lies on the opposite bank. The train next crosses the Nette,
passes the Netterhqf (p. 67) and stops at the station of

Andemaeh (p. 65), % M. distant from the town; the
church, the ancient tower and walls are the most conspicuous
objects^ The Lunatic Asylum (1.) was once the Augustine
nunnery of St. Thomas. Beyond Andernach the train runs
close to the river and commands a beautiful view in both
directions; farther on, it passes the Krahnenbery, where, on
the construction of the line, the remains of a Roman villa
were discovered, and intersects the lava-stream of the Fornicher
Kopf (p. 65) (to the r. the castle of Namedy is visible). Opp.
to Stat. Brohl is situated the church of Rheinbrohl (Brohl-

10*

148 Route 36, SINZIG.

thai, etc., see R. 19); the train then skirts the base of the
castle of Rheineck and passes stat. Nieder-Breisig, opp. to (r.)
the castle of Arenfeis, where the bank of the river is quitted.
The next station is

Sinzig^ (* Hotel Baur; Deutsches Haus) a small and very
ancient town, surrounded by high walls, ly, M. from the
river. The ruins of the Franconian palace, afterwards Imperial
residence, which stood here, and from which various decrees
of Pepin, the emperor Henry III., and others were issued,
have been converted into a picturesque modem Gothic villa.
The Helenenherg, to the I. of the line and S. of the town,
derives its name from a tradition that the empress Helena
once founded a chapel on it. The handsome * Church, in the
finest transition style, the round predominating, is constructed
of tnffstone and dates from the 13th cent. A natural
mummy called the "holy Vogt", found in the churchyard
200 years ago, is exhibited in a glass case in one of the
chapels. A worthless picture, painted in 1708, alludes to
Constantine*s vision of the Cross (p. 140), the scene of which,
according to some traditions, was at Sinzig. The choir con-
tains a fine winged picture on gold ground by a Dutch master
(John Foeten, 1480), restored in 1855. {Ahrthal, see R. 17;
diligence from Sinzig twice a day to Ahrweiler in 1 ^2 h^**)
see p. 56).

Remagen (and the Apollinarisberg, see pp. 61, 62) is
one of the stations (Sinzig the other) for the Valley of the
Ahr (R. 17). Here the train re-approaches the river; beautiful
retrospective view. Farther on, the scene of the landslip
of the Birgder Kopf is intersected by the line, where, as
well as at Rolandseck, the peculiar formation of the moun-
tains is exposed to view by the railway cuttings. Beyond
the village of Obertvinter the train reaches

Rolandseck {* Railway re/reshment'Tooms ; magnificent view,
see p. 51), a favorite resort of the inhabitants of Bonn and
Cologne. — Mehlem, the station for Konigswinter on the r.
bank, is y4 M. from the Rhine ; ferry to Eonigswinter in 5 min.

Most of the handsome residences of Godesberg^ (* Blinzler)^
opposite to the station, belong to wealthy merchants of Cologne,
Elberfeld, &c. The DraiscKbrunnen^ a weak alkaline, chalybeate
spring, was known to the Romans, as is proved by a votive-tablet
to Aesculapius, found in the vicinity. Half a mile to the N.
of the station, on an eminence (275 ft.), stands the handsome
castle-tower (100 ft.). At the foot of the hill a Roman colony
is said formerly to have existed, and at the summit a fort,
founded by the emperor Julian (360), a temple, and afterwards
a Christian church. The castle was erected in the 13th and

HOCHKREUZ. 36, Route. 149

following centuries by the archbishops of Cologne, principally
as a protection against the incursions of the citizens of Cologne
(p. 27). In 1583 it was defended by Count Adolf of Neuen-
ahr against the Bavarians, who fought in support of the newly
chosen Archbishop Ernst of Bavaria against the deposed
Gebhard of Waldburg, who had turned Protestant. They
succeeded in storming the castle, and blew it up; the tower
alone has escaped destruction. Fine view from the summit.
The ruin now belongs to the queen of Prussia.

As Bonn is approached, to the r. stands the Hochkreuz,
an obelisk 30 ft in height, erected in 1332—49 to the memory
of a knight who fell in a duel at this spot. The train now
crosses the Poppelsdorf avenue and enters the station of

Bonn, see R. 14. On leaving the station, the Cemetery
with its chapel are seen to the r., and the Kreuzherg to the
1. Roisdorf possesses a mineral spring, similar to that of
Seltefs. Near stat. Sechtem the wine-growing district termin-
ates. The former royal hunting -residence Falkenlust, con-
nected with Bruhl by an avenue, is now private property.

BrUhl {* Pavilion; * Belvedere; *Harion, on the Cologne
road). The train stops opposite to the royal Palace of Bruhl,
a handsome building, erected by the Elector Clemens August
in 1728. During the French period Marshal Davoust resided
in it for several years, and it was afterwards assigned to the
4th cohort of the French Legion of Honour. For many years
it was untenanted and fell to decay, but was restored in 1842
by the late king Fred. William IV. The halls contain old
portraits of Rhenish electors and other princes. The garden
and park are favorite resorts of the inhabitants of Bonn and
Cologne.

After passing stat. KaUcheuren, the train skirts the W.
side of the city, passes by the Town Garden and the goods
station, traverses the fortifications and a portion of the town,
and finally enters the station of

Cologne, see R..10.

87.

(Gomp, Map. R. 34)

Hotels. Hotel Victoria, *Taiiiin8 Hotel (R. and L. IV^fl., A. 24 kr.),
both near the railway stations. — With baths: *The Four Seasons Hotel,
'I'Eagle, *Rose, ^Nassauer Hof, all of the first class. — Hotel de
France, *Gruner Wald (Green Wood), more moderate. — * Table d'hdte
in the Oarsaal, at 1 o'cl. 1 fl., at 5 o'cl. IV4 fi.

There are also numerous Bathiaf-oatAbliahmeata : *£u rope an Hotel,
at the Kochbrunnen, well fitted up, English Hotel, *Bear, *Romer-
bad, Engel, *8chwan, Krone, &c. The charges vary with the season.
In the Romerbad, for example, from October to April a bedroom is let for

150 Jtoute 37. WIESBADEN.

3 II. per week, in May and September for 5 A., in June and Aug. for 7 fl.,
and in July for 9 fl. ; a bath in the 7 winter months costs 15 kr. , in the
5 summer months 24 kr. Tea and coffee are the only refreshments supplied
in these establishments.

B«atMB»i&ts« *Christmann, Lugenbiihl; Restaurant Francais,
all in the untere Webersgasse, near the Theaterplatz ; Spehner; Cafe
Hartmann; table d'hote in all during the season. Beer at Christmann's
(see above), at the I'Bierstadter -Berg, '/a ^* ^ ^^^ ^- £• of the Cur-
saal, and at Duensings near the station.

Kewapapen in the Reading-room of the Cursnal; the guests of the
establishment can procure cards of admission gratis from the directors.

■ilitarj Conoart in the Curgarteu from 4 to 6 p.m., and frequently later
in the evening by gas-light.

Corsaal. During the height of the season **ReuniQns dansantes" on
Saturdays, for which separate cards of admiation are necessary. Concerts on
Fridays, performances by musicians of the highest class; adm. 1 — 3 fl.

tiiaatre, 3 — 5 times a week at B'/^ o'clock.

Cazriagea. From the station to the town 1—9 pers. 30, 3 4 pers. 48 kr.
(inc. trunk, travelling bag, and hat-box) $ each additional trunk 6 kr* A drive
in the town 1—2 pers. 18, 3—4 pers. 24, '/, hr. 24—36, 1 hr. 1 fl. 13-1 fl.
34 kr. ; two-horse carriages about '/, rd more. To the Greek Chapel and
back 1 fl. 30-1 fl. 48 kr.; to the Plalte aad back 4^5 fl.; to Schtangenbad
ft— 7 fl.; to Sehwaibach H—i fl.

Donkeja, on the Sonuenberg road, opp. to the Berliner Hof, 30 kr. per
hour (inc. fee); to the Platte and back 1 fl. 24 kr.

Bailway BtatioM of the Taunus line (R. 40) and the Right- Rhenish
or Nassovian line (to Oberlahnstein, Ems, Limburg, Wetzlar, corop. RR. 22,
23) at the E. extremity of the Rheinstrasse.

Telegraph Ottoe Bahnhofstrasse 1.

The Mineral Watera are drunk from 5 to 8 a.m., seldom in the evening.

Bngliah Ohuroh Benrioe is performed by a resident chaplain in tJie new
English church is the Wilhelmstrasse.

Wiesbaden (pop. 20,797, 6022 Rom. Cath.), the capital
of the Duchy of Nassau, and principal residence of the Duke,
is one of the oldest watering-places in Germany. *^ Sunt ef
Mattiaci in Germania fontes caiidi trans Rhenum, quorum haustus
triduo ferveV is the account given by Pliny {hisU naU XXXI, 2)
of Wiesbaden. On the Heidenberg ^ which rises to the N. of
the town, traces of a Roman fortress (500 ft. in length, and
nearly as broad) were discovered in 1838, which according to
the inscriptions was garrisoned by the I4th and 22nd Legions.
The Heidenmauer (heathens' wall), 650 ft. long, 10 ft. high,
and 9 ft. thick, among the stones of which fragments of rained
temples, votive -tablets &c. may be recognized, now forms a.
sort of town-wall on the N. W. side, and was perhaps a con-
necting line between the fort on the Romerberg and the town.
Urns, implements, weapons, and tombstones of Roman soldiers,
found here on different occasions, are exhibited in the Mu-
seum (p. 152).

Wiesbaden lies on the S. W. spurs of the Taunus moun-
tains, 90 ft. above the Rhine, and is surrounded by
handsome villas standing in pleasure-grounds tastefully laid
out. These are most numerous in the vicinity of the Cursaal
and the railway stations, and are principally designed for the

Cursaal. WIESBADEN. 37. Route. 151

accommodation of visitors. The annual number of strangers
who visit Wiesbaden amounts to (1863) 35,000, of whom one-
third are passers-through. It also attracts about 1600 winter
residents by the various public ^institutions of art and science
it contains. It is needless to say that there is a considerable
difference between the summer and winter prices.

On leaving the station (at the S. £. end of the town)
the traveller enters the Wilhelmstrasse, planted with trees
and about Va ^- in length, bounding the entire £. side of the
town. At its extremity on the 1., is the Theaterpiatz , three
sides of which are occupied by the Hotel of the Four Seasons^
the Hotel Zaia, the Nassauer Ho/, and the Theatre; on the r.
is the square in front of the Cursaaly embellished with two
handsome fountains. On each side of the square are long
and spacious colonnades, where every description of fancy
article is on sale.

The * Cursaal is the chief resort of visitors. The principal
hall is embellished with niches containing copies of celebrated
antiques. The orchestra galleries are supported by handsome
pillars of the red and grey marble of the country. To the
r. and 1. are spacious and magnificently decorated saloons,
dedicated to play(open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.), dining, ball,
drawing, and reading rooms. To the rear of the building arc
tastefully laid -out pleasure-grounds, much frequented in the
afternoon as a promenade; a good band is in frequent atten-
dance, and the scene is highly animated and gay. In the
midst of a fish-pond of considerable size a fountain throws a
jet of water upwards of 100 ft. Paths laid out in a delightful
grassy dale lead past the Dietenmuhle (good inn), where a
Hydropathic estab. (Dr. Genth, director) has been recently
opened, to the ruin of Sonnenherg (1 y, M.) and the Rambacher
Capelle, ly^ M. farther, where remains of a Roman camp
were excavated in 1859.

The Xochbruxmeiiy or boiling spring, is the most im-
portant of the warm springs (156^ Fahr.), and is connected
with, the Curgartea by means of a long iron Trinkhalle
or Purap-room, in the form of a veranda. The * Hygeia
group, near the spring, was executed by Hoffmann of Wies-
baden in 1850.

The warm spring in the garden of the Adler (Eagle) Hotel
is also provided with a pump-room. Another spring (122^
Fahr.) in the Schutzenkof, is, enclosed in a large vaulted build-
ing belonging to the Roman period, where Roman relics have
been found. The principal ingredient in the water is chloride
of sodium.

The most conspicuous building in the town is the Gothic

152 Route 37. WIESBADEN. Museum.

Protestant Church with five lofty towers, opposite to the
palace, built of polished bricks in 1852—1860. The Boxnan
Cath. Chtirch is also a handsome modern structare in the
round-arch style, with vaultad network ceiling. The altar-
piece to the r., a Madonna and Child is by Steinie, that to
the K, St. Boniface, by Rethel.

The other buildings worthy of note are the Ducal PalacCj
the Palace of the Dowager Duchess^ constructed in the style
of the Alhambra, situated on the height near the Cursaal, and
the Ministerial buildings, in the Florentine palatial style.

The Museum in the so-called ^^ Scklosschen" in the Wil-
helmstrasse contains a collection of Roman and other anti-
quities (open to the public Mon., Wed. and Frid. 3 — 6 p.m.)
on the ground-floor, amongst which t)ie Mithras -altar, with
remarkably well preserved sculptures, discovered at Heddem^
heim {Novus Vicus) on the Nidda, 4% M. to the N. W. of
Frankfurt, deserves particular inspection. Among the curiosities
of the middle ages is a gilded and carved wooden altar of
the I3th cent., which formerly belonged to the Abbey of
Marienstadt near Hachenburg. On the ground-floor to the r.,
a Picture Gallery (Sun., Mon., Wed. and Frid. 11 — 4) has
begun to be formed. The first floor contains an admirably
arranged collection of objects of Natural History, especially of
geological specimens from the Bnchy of Nassau, and Geming's
celebrated Collection of Insects (Mon., Wed. and Frid. 2 — 6,
also Wed. 11 — 1). — The Library in the upper story (open
on Mon., Wed. and Frid. from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 5).
contains some valuable old MSS., among which may be men-
tioned "The Visions of St. Hildegard", a parchment MS.,
illuminated with curious miniatures of the 12th cent, and
"The Visions of St. Elisabeth of Schonau", with painted and
gilt letters.

The Collection of Antiquities and objects of art from Italy,
the property of Prince Emil v. Wittgenstein, is open to the
public Mon., Wed. and Frid. afternoon.

Wiesbaden possesses several excellent educational establish-
ments, the most important of which are the Chemical Labora-
tory of Fresenius, the Agricultural institution on the old Geis-
berg, SchirnCs Commercial School, the Grammar School, &c.

On the Neroherg, 1 M. to the N. of the town, where, ac-
cording to an obscure tradition, the Emperor Nero once had
a palace, is situated the * Russian -Greek Chapel, erected
by the Duke as a Mausoleum for his first wife, the Duchess
Elizabeth Michailbwna, a Russian princess who died in 1845.
From the portal a fine view is obtained of Wiesbaden and
Mainz, to the S. the Melibocus, and S. W. the long ridge

Cemetery, WIESBADEN. 37. Route. 153

of the Donnersberg. The Chapel is constructed of sandstone
in the form of a Greek cross, and is richly decorated, prin-
cipally in the ronnd-arch style. It is sarmonnted by one
targe, and four smaller cupolas, all richly gilded, on the highest
of which is a Russian double cross, 183 ft. from the ground,
secured by hanging gilt chains, in the style of the Kremlin
at Moscow. The interior consists entirely of marble, white
and coloured. A rich Altar -screen (IkonoBtas), with repre-
sentations of numerous saints, especially those revered in
Russia, separates the choir, which is only accessible to the
priests and their attendants, from the body of the chapel. The
altar itself, with a Crucifix of crystal, is only visible during
divine service. A pentagonal recess on the N. side contains
a magnificent monument to the Duchess. The recumbent
effigy is of white marble, and rests on a sarcophagus, at the
sides of which are statuettes of the 1*2 Apostles, and at the
comers Faith, Hope, Charity, and Immortality, executed by
Professor Hopfgarten of Berlin. Divine service, according to
the ritual of the Greek church, is performed here every Sun-
day at 10 a.m., but the public are excluded. At other times
the chapel is shown by the sacristan who lives near (fee for
1 pers. 24 kr., for a party of 3—4, 1 fl.). Near the chapel is a
well-kept Russian Burial-ground, containing several monuments.

About % M. to the N. W. beyond the chapel is an open
temple supported by pillars, which commands a fine view.
Promenades and walks of all kinds traverse the wood in every
direction, and extend as far as the Platte (see below). At
the base of the hill on the S. is the Hydropathic Establishment
of NerothaL

The *Cemeter3r9 on the hill-side opposite to the Neroberg,
and 1 M. from the Cursaal, contains many handsome monu-
ments, several of which are Russian. To the r. of the build-
ing used for depositing the coffins, stands the monument of.
the Hanoverian General von Baring, the defender of La Haye
Sainte at the battle of Waterloo. A fragment of a pillar on
the E. wall bears the name of the Polish General Uminsky
(d. 1851). A chapel is in course of construction over the
grave of the Duchess Pauline (d. 1856), who, according to her
own wish, was interred here.

The * Platte, a hunting-residence of the Duke, stands on
a height (1511 ft.), about 4^2 M. to the N. of Wiesbaden, and
is frequently visited for the sake of the view. The above-
mentioned walks on the Neroherg are connected with the
Platte, and abundantly provided with signposts. The carriage
drive is the old Limburg road. (Far below in the valley to
the 1. is situated the ancient nunnery &f Glarenthal, founded

154 Route 37, WIESBADEN.

in 1296 by the Emperor Adolf of Nassau and his consort
Imagina of Limburg; above it, the former Fasanerie, or
pheasantry). The view from the platform of the building
extends over the W ester wald, Spessart, Odenwald, Donuers-
berg, the entire valley of the Rhine as far as the Haardt
mountains, with Mayence in the foreground. The large tele-
scope enables the spectator distinctly to recognize the people
crossing the bridge of boats. The interior of the shooting-
box contains no objects of arts, with the exception of some
pictures of animals, but is appropriately fitted up. Near it is
a good inn. The pedestrian may descend from the Platte in
a S. £. direction to the Sonnenberg (p. 151) about 3Vs M.
distant. The path leads past an oak plantation to the 1. of
the high road, and is distinctly visible from the platform.
Wiesbaden lies iV, M. to the S. W. of the Sonnenberg.

Wiesbaden is connected with Moabach (p. 137) by a road
planted with a quadruple row of horse-cbesnnts. Half-way to
the village is the Adolphskoke, a restaurant, which affords a
survey of the Rheingau as far as the Bochnscapelle at Bingen.

Another fine view is obtained from the Ghau88eehau8 or
Forester's house, on the old Schwalbach road, about 3 M.
from Wiesbaden, where the road to Georgenborn and Schlangen-
bad diverges. <— Excursion to the Taunusmountains see R. 40.

38. Schwalbach and Schlangenbad.

(Comp. Map K. 34.)

Hotels ill Schwalbach. ■^Alleesaal; *Po8t; *Duke of Nassau, R.
1 il., L. IS, B. 30 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl. 19 kr.; Taaans Hotel; *B6tel
Wagner; *Rn0sischer Hof, B. 49 kr. in the two latter.

Bourdinc Houses (without dinner). Among others may be mentioned:
Neglein, Kranich ^telegr. office and starting point of the Wiesbaden
cmnibns), Wiener Hor, Stadt Hanau, Einhorn, Victoria, Belle-
vue, Tivoli (large and welt fitted up, but somewhat expensive) Panorama,
Widow Grebert, Pariser Hof (dinner), Stadt Coblenz, Englischer
M o f. — Dinner mav be procured from the Duke of Nassau Hotel , Hdtel
Wagner, Dielfenbach s Restaurant or the Pariser Hof; price from 1 fl. to 36 kr.

Roadinf Room in the Alleesaal.

latiw in the Badhans (from 5 a.m. till I'/t p.m.. 1 fl.)* Kranieh.
iitadt Mainz, Engl. Hof. Einhorn. Baltxer 54 kr. per bath. Con-
tribution to the band 2 fl. for the season.

Carriages and Horsoa have uo fixed charges; donkeys according to a
printed tariff.

BilifOBOO to Wiesbaden in 2 hrs.. at 7 a.m. and IV4 P'Ot', to Schtangembad
(in 1 hr.) and EltnUe (in 2 hrs.) at 8 a.m. and &■/, p.m. in summer only; to
J)ie$ (p. 86) at 8 p.m. in 4 hrs. — Omnibus to Wiesbaden at 7'/, a.m.
in 2'A hrs.

Tolofrapb OOm in the "Kranich".

Bni^iah Ohnroh Sorvko in the Lutheran Church during the season.

LANGEN-SCHWALBACH. 38. Route. 155

lAngen - Schwalbach , commonly oalled Schwaibach, is
situated on the Wiesbaden and Coblenz road, 10 Vs M. to the
N. W. of Wiesbaden and 25 M. S. £. of Ems. The three
principal springs, the Stakibrunnen in one of the -valleys, and the
IFetn- and Pauiinenbrunnen in the other, are connected by
by means of walks and shrubberies. The Bath-establishment
is at the Weinbmnnen; the water, which is strongly impreg-
nated with iron and carbonic acid gas, is adapted for internal
as well as external use, and is especially efficacious in nervous
and female complaints.

The village itself '/« M. in length, is situated in a beautiful
wooded ravine. The annual number of visitors is upwards
of 3000. The Pauimenberg, Piatte, the ruins of (2 M.) Adolph^-
^i'k (Kiing) and (6 M.) Hohenetein (Ziemen) are very favorite
resorts. — A good road leads from Schwaibach through the
Wisperthal to Lorch (21 M.) on the Rhine.

Schwaibach is usually approached from Wiesbaden, from
Eltville by Schlangenbad (diligence twice daily) c^r from Ems
(railway to Diez, thence by carriage [no diligence] in 4 hrs.)

The new high-road from Wiesbaden to Schnoalbiach (diligence
at sy^ a.m. and 10 p.m. in 2^/^ hrs., omnibus at by^ p.m. from
the Taunus Hotel, opp. the rail, stations), soon after Wies-
baden is left, quits the old road leading by the Chausseehaus
and the Hohe Wurzel (1600 ft.), and enters the Aarthal, which
it follows, passing by Bieidenstadf, till Schwaibach is reached.

The road from Biebrich to Schlangenbad and Schwaibach
(carriage to Schlangenbad in ly,, to Schwaibach in 3^^ hrs.)
leads by Schierstein and Neudorf (Krone), where it unites with
the road from Eltville; it then passes the former convent of
Tiefenthal (now a mill), and traverses a picturesque valley,
enlivened by numerous mills. The pedestrian is recommended
to make a circuit of lY] M. by Rauenthal; about y^ M.
beyond Neudorf a signpost indicates the road to the 1., leading
to Ranentlial (Nctssaver Hof\ celebrated for its wine, situated
on the ridge of the hill. On leaving the S. side of the village
the tourist will see a cross, 50 yds. beyond which be must
turn to the r. and then ascend to the 1.; in a few minutes
he will reach the Rauenthaler Hohe (1668 ft.), which commands
a magnificent view of the entire Rheingau from Mayence to
below Johannisberg, with the handsome buildings of Eltville
in the foreground.

On the N. side of Rauenthal a good path leads along the
hill-side to Schlangenbad. Those who prefer to return to the
high road must turn down to the r. by the signpost, y^ M.
from the village, and a descent of % hr. more will bring them
to the road; 1% M. farther, Sohlangenbad (4% M. from

156 Route 38. SCHLANGENBAD.

Schwalbach) is reached {*Nas8auer Bof, D. 1 fl. 12 kr., R. at
fixed rates ; Hotel Victoria^ D exc. W. 1 fl. — The refreshment
rooms in the upper and lower Curkaus, and on the terrace,
belong to the landlord of the Nsssaner Hof)- The baths are
visited principally by ladies. The water (84<>— 90^ Fahr.),
only nsed externally, is clear and free from odour, and is
smooth and oily to the touch: it is most efficacious in skin
complaints, convulsive affections, nervous weakness, and similar
maladies. For a minute and masterly description of the whole
of this locality, the reader is referred to the work of Sir
Francis Head, ** Bubbles from the Brunnens of Nassau." Suffice
it here to say that Schlangenbad, unlike Ems in its circle of
hills, is situated in a richly wooded valley, refreshed by a
constant current of air, which invigorates the enervated frame.
Paths of easy ascent are cut in all directions through the
woods, affording enjoyment even to those whose pedestrian
powers are limited. Instead of the day being devoted to the
excitements of "roulette" and **rouge et noir", it is passed in
healthful recreation and the pure enjoyment of exquisite sce-
nery and a delightful and invigorating atmosphere.

According to a tradition the springs were discovered by
a cow-herd, 200 years ago, who found his herd diminishing,
and going in search of the truant animals found them lux-
uriating in the warm spring. The Bath establishment was
erected by the former lord of the soil, the Landgrave Carl
of Hessen-Cassel , and surrounded by pleasure grounds. The
terrace at the Gurhaus and the grounds connected with it are
the only public places of resort for visitors. Schlangenbad
also possesses a whey-cure establishment.

From Schlangenbad to Wiesbaden the new carriage - road by
Georgenborn (7% M.) is the best rente for pedestrians. The road ascends
in an £. direction to OtorfCttborB (1152 ft.). From the highest point a
magnificent prospect is enjoyed of the neighbourhood of Frankfurt as far as
the confluence of the Main and Rhine, the Rhine from Worms to Bingen,
and in the background the Doonersberg. A road leads from the village to
the Chatuseehau* (p. 154), about 2V« M. distant; thence to Wiesbaden by the
old Wiesbaden and Schwalbach road (3V4 M.).

The high-road from Schlangenbad by Wamhach to Schwal-
bach (472 M.) rises considerably for about 2 M., commjinding
a fine view from the culminating point, and then descends to
Schicalbach,

39. Frankfurt.

Hotels. Outside of the town, conveniently situated between the Taanns
and ICain-Weser stations: O'Westendhall, R. 1 fl. and upwards, L. 18, B.
30 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl. 12 kr., A. 24 kr. ; also a cafe -restaurant. In the
town: *H6teI de Russie (of the highest class) and *Roman Emperor,
in the Zeil; *HOtel d'Angleterre, in the Rossmarkt, R. 1>/, fl. U 24,

IX
t.

(iT'X.aAAAiJ^yUyX^iy

FRANKFURT. 39, Route, 157

B. 42 kr., D. 1% fl., A. 30 kr. — *Swan. B. 1 11., L. 18, B. 18, B. 36. A.
34 kr., excellent table-d'hote at 1, inc. W. 1 fl. 45 kr., and Hotel de
r Union (similar prices), near Goethe's monument. — *Hollandi8cher
Ho f, in the Goethe - Platz , R. 1 fl. 20 kr., L. 18, B. 36, A. 24 kr.. at the
same time a caf^-restauraut. ^Landsberg, R. 1 fl., L. 18 kr.; good dinner
at 1. inc. W. 1 fl. 30, B. 36, A. 18 kr,: Rheinischer Hof, in the Buch-
{;asse; Pariser Hof. in the Paradeplats. all second-class houses. Gruner
Baum, grosse Fischergasse , and Stadt Darmstadt in the same street,
Y«ry moderate.

Oafte. Milani, next door to the theatre; Holland, in the Goethe-
platz; Parrot, next to the Post office; Cafi neuf, in the Schillerplatz.

GoaflBctiMMn. Roder, opposite to the Qoethe- monument; good ices
12 kr.; Butschli, kleiner Hirschgraben 8; Kuecht. by St. Paul's Church.

Restaurants. Jouy, Galleugasse, good but dear. *Jacoby, in the
Stiftsstrasse, near the Zell; -wine good. Westendhall at the Taunus station;
Ostendhall at the Bavarian station. Beer may be procured at the following
restaurants: ^Eysser, by the Main-Weser station; in the town: *Zum
Gutteuberg in the Gallengasse, not far from the stations.

Hewtpapera in the Burgerverein (p. 165).

Theatee (PI. 34), representations nearly every day.

Railways. Tauntis-line and JETessen-Ludu-ig-line see R. 40. Main-
Neckar-line, R. 41. Main- Weser-Une, for Homhurg (p. 170). The three stations
adjoin each other, and are situated on the W. side of the town. The
Bavarian station is on the £. side, outside of the Allerheiligenthor. The
Offenbach station is in Sachsenhausen, on the I. bank of the Main.

Omnibus from the station to the town 12 kr.. for each box 6 kr. From
the town to the station 6 kr. for a passenger without luggage, 12 kr. for a
passenger with ordinary luggage, for each additional box 6 kr.

Fiacres from the station to the town for 1 — 2 persons with ordinary
luggage 24 kr., 3 pers. 30 kr., 4 pers. 36 kr.; for each box 6 kr. By time:
^ horse) for V« hr. 1—2 pers. 12 kr., 3—4 pers. 18 kr.; (2 horses) 18 and
24 kr. For longer periods at somewhat reduced rates. N.B. The unnumbered
vehicles have no fixed tariffs.

Tslegn^-olftoea. The Frankfurt and Prussian offices are at the Ex-
change, the Bavarian Paulsplats No. 2. At the Taunus station despatches
within the limits of this line only are received.

Valets ds place IV4— 2 fl. per diem.

Shops, the best in the Zeil. Buhler, Zeil. 54, ornaments of carved
stag's horn. Ihlee, Zeil 63, tunall bronce objects (Ariadne). Antonio
Vanni, Kmggasse 8. depot of easts from anti<|aes and modem sculptures.
Jos. Milani, Bleidenstrasse 6, Sartorio, grosser Kornmarkt, fruit-
merchants. Toys at Albert's, Zeil 36.

Baths. Warm-baths at the Leonhardsthor and at the islan-l. 48 kr. Cold-
baths at the Untermainthor 12 kr. ; also smmming^ath, 12 — 16 -fcr.

Xilitary musie at the W. end of the Zeil at 12 o'clock ; on Wednesday
at the Goetheplatz. The garrison consists of Austrian. Prussian, Bavarian,
and Frankfurt troops.

Knflish Ohioreh Btrviee performed every Sunday by a resident chaplain
in the French Church in the Goetheplatz.

Ck>Ueotions and EzhiMtions:

*Ariadneum (p. 164). or BethmanrCs Museum, dally 10-1 o'clock; fee 18—

24 kr.
Exhibition of the Art-union (PI. 23). Junghofstr. ; adm. (9- 6 o'clock) 30 kr.
Town-library (p. 162). Mond , Wed. and Frid. from 2—4, Tues. and Thurs.

from 10—12.

* Diorama near the Main-Weser-station ; adm. 1 fl.. or 36 kr.

* Kaisersaal, in the Romer (p. 159), open from the beginning of May till the
end of September, on Mon.. Wed. and Frid. from 11—1 o'clock.

Senckenberg natural hist, society (p. 164); the collections open on Wed.

2—4. and Frid. 11—1, gratis: at other times for a fee of 24 kr.
Stddel picture-gallery (p. 165) daily 11—1 gratis, at other times for a fee

of 30 kr.

* Zoological garden (p. 166); adm. 30 kr.; concert on Wed., Sat. and Sund,

ir>8 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Monuments,

Those whose time iti limited should inspect the 8tiidel Uallery (p. 1^),
the Kaisersaal (p. 159), the Dom (p. 161), Daimeclcer's Ariadne (p. 164), the
monuments of Goethe, Gutenberg and Schiller.

Frankfort on the Main (Pop. 82,000; 11,000 Rom. Cath.
and 4500 Jews) was formerly a free town of the Empire^
and is now one of the free towns of the German Confede-
ration, the seat of the Diet, and garrisoned by 4500 troops.
Old watch-towers at different points in the vicinity indicate
the extent of the ancient city in which the German emperors
were formerly elected and crowned. Frankfurt is situated in
a spacious plain bounded by mountains, on the river Main,
navigable for ships of a considerable size, and forming a source
of great commercial advantage to the city, which ranks among
the handsomest and most opulent in Germany.

The town is surrounded by the "Anlagen**, or public

grounds, in which are situated many substantial and tastefully

built residences. An air of wealth and importance pervades

the entire city, affording a striking indication of the success

and extent of its commercial relations.

Franlcfurt dates its origin from the time of Charlemagne. In 794 the
emperor held a convocation of the bishops and dignitaries of the empire in
the royal residence " Francono/urt** (ford of the Franks). Louis the Pious
granted to the town certain privileges, and from the time of Loaia the German
it gradually rose to importance. lu 1249 Fredericic II. sanctioned the Easter
Fair. By the Golden Bull of Charles IV. Frankfurt was destined to be the
Town of Election of the German Empire ^ and the mi^O'ity of the emperors
were here chosen. After the dissolution of the Empire in 1806, Frankfurt,
together with Aschaflfenburg, Hanau, Fulda and Wetslar, was made over as
a Graud-duchy to Carl von Dalberg, Primate of the Rhenish Confederation,
and formerly Archbishop of Mayence. By the Congress of Vienna it was
finally recognized as a free city.

On entering the town the first object which attracts the
eye is the * Monument of Gutenberg^, erected in 1858, a
large galvano-plastic group with sandstone pedestal, a work
of great merit, executed by Ed. v. d. Launitz. The central
figure with the types in the 1. hand represents Gutenberg, that
on his r. Fust, and on his 1. Schoffer. On the frieze are 13
likenesses of celebrated printers, Caxton among others. In
the four niches underneath are the arms of the four towns
where the art of printing was first principally practised,
Mainz, Frankfurt, Venice, and Strasbourg. On four separate
pedestals are female figures emblematical of Theology, Poetry,
Natural History, and Industry. The heads of four animals,
which serve as water-spouts, represent the four quarters of the
globe and indicate the universal diffusion of the invention. In
the Junghofstr. in the vicinity is the * Permanent Exhibition
of Art,

In the **AlIee" bounding the N. side of the town, the
* Monument of Qoethe is a prominent object. The poet in

Romer. FRANKFURT. 39. Route. 159

modern costume holds a wreath of laurel in his 1. hand. The
half- reliefs upon the pedestal are emblematic of Goethe^s
literary activity. In the front (S. side) are represented Natural
Science, Dramatic and Lyric Poetry; on the E. side Orestes
and Thoas (Iphigenia), Faust and Mephistopheies; on the N,
side to the r. 6dtz von Berlichingen, Egmont, and Tasso, on
the 1. the Bride of Corinth, the god and the bayadere, Pro-
metheus, and the Erl-king with his child; on the W. side to
the r. Mignon with Wilhelm Meister, and on the 1. Hermann
and Dorothea.

The house in which Goethe was bom (PI. 16^ is in the
Hirschgraben , near the Rossmarkt, and has a tablet affixed
to it with the inscription: Johann Wolfgang Goethe was bom
in this hottse on the 28th of August ^ 1749. The arms over
the door, three lyres placed obliquely and a star, were chosen
by Goethe's father on his marriage with the daughter of the
senator Textor, from their resemblance to a horse -shoe, the
grandfather of the poet having been a farrier by trade. In
the attics facing the court the poet lived in 1773 — 75, and
there his time was occupied with "Gotz" and "Werther";
they were also the scene of those boyish exploits and more
serious adventures which render his biography so interesting.
The house has been recently purchased by a society ("deutsches
Hochstift") and is being suitably restored. Entrance free.

Among edifices possessing an historical interest the
*B0m6r (Tl. 28) is entitled to the first mention. It was
purchased by the city for a Town -hall in 1406. The lower
part serves as a depot for merchandize during the fairs.
On the first floor is the * Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), where
the newly chosen emperor dined with his electors, and showed
himself from the balcony to the people assembled on the
Romerberg (p. 160). It was restored in 1840 and embellished
with a series of portraits in oil of the emperors. This col
lection was formed at the expense of princes, societies, and
private individuals, to replace the miserable old frescoes which
formerly disfigured the walls.

From the Kaisersaal the visitor is conducted into the red-
tapestried Wahlzimmer (election-room), which has been left in
its original condition, and contains a portrait of Leopold IL
The senate now holds its meetings here. The allegorical and
burlesque ornaments which embellish the ceiling, as well as
the entire internal arrangements of the building, date from 1740.

One of the chief objects of interest preserved amongst the
archives in this collection is the celebrated Bull of the Em-
peror Charles IV., known as the **Golden Bui l", promulgated
at Numberg in 1306. It is considered by the Germans as the

160 Route 39, FRANKFURT. Bomerberg.

basis of many of their most highly prized political privileges.
^^Balla" was the name originally given to the little ornament
worn as a kind of amulet round the necks of the Roman
youth, occasionally used as a seal. In course of time the
word was applied to the documents themselyes, to which im-
pressions of seals in gold, silver, and lead were appended,
and the imperious edicts issued from the Vatican, which have
sometimes shaken the world, came to be known as Balls.
Golden Balls are very rare, and those of silver even more so.
The British Museum possesses a fine series in lead.

The Bomerberg, or market-place in front of the Romer,
which up to the end of the last century no Jew was permitted
to enter, was the scene of those public rejoicings which Goethe
so admirably describes in his Life.

His roMterly pen depicts to the life the glee of the people, when the
Hereditary Marshal rode up , according to the old custom , to a heap of oats
and filled a silver-handled measure with the grain for the supply of the im-
perial stables. The Hereditary Chamberlain next made his appearance with
a basin, ewer and towel for the use of his imperial master. That part of
the ceremony performed, the Hereditary High -steward raised the popular
excitement to a still higher pitch; the dignitary rode through the crowd to
the large temporary kitchen erected in the square, and cut a slice from the
ox which was roasting whole on this festive occasion, and brought it back
in a silver dish for the use of the imperial table. It was now the turn of
the Hereditary Cup-bearer to fetch from the fountain some of the wine with
which it flowed. The imperial table was thus supplied; upon this all eyes
were anxiously strained to catch a glimpse of the Hereditary Grand-treasurer,
whose duty was to ride forth and scatter largesse among the people » and
finally to throw amongst the eager crowd the richly embroidered purses
which had contained the coins, and which were suspended on each side' of
his saddle in the place of pistol-holsters. The scrambling and Jostling which
now ensued afforded immense amusement to the spectators, but the scene
did not reach its climax till the Emperor and his nobles retired from the
balcony, which was the signal fov the coiniuenceuimt of the most unboirmted
ebullitions of extravagance on the part of the populace. Finally a rush was
made upon the kitchen,which was speedily demolished, and a fierce onslaught
commenced upon the roasting ox.

Behind the Romer is situated the Church of St. Paul
(PI. 22), tt circular building completed in 1833 in the new
Romanesque style, which served in 1848-9 as the session-
house for the '^German National Assembly for remodelling the
Constitution," but was again fitted up as a place of worship
in 1852.

Opposite to this church is the BOrse (Exchange) (PI. 3),
erected in 1844 after the designs of Stiiler in the round-arch
style. The building is of grey sandstone with intermediate
layers of red. Two statues, *'Hope" by Wendelstatt, and
"Prudence" by Zwerger, adorn the E. side. Those on the W.
side are emblematical of Commerce by sea and by land, and
between them are represented Europe, Asia, Africa, America
and Australia, executed by Launitz and Zwerger. The hall
of the exchange is in the old Indian style. From eight black

Dom. FRANKFURT. 39. Route 161

marble pillars project eight white fan -like roofs, ornamented
with painted bas-reliefs, and terminating at the top in large
gilded rosettes. A considerable portion of the mercantile
community of Frankfurt assembles here daily from 12 to 2
o'clock, the most animated time being about 1, when the tu-
mult of business attains its highest pitch.

The S. side of the Romerberg is bounded by the Gothic
Vioolaikirche (PK 21), a small but elegant structure belonging
to the 13th cent., restored in 1847. The altar-piece, executed
by Rethe], represents the Resurrection.

A few steps southwards from the Romerberg lead the
traveller to the Saalhof (PL 29), a gloomy building of 1717,
situated on the Main, the old chapel of which, lately restored,
is said to have formed a portion of the ancient palace of the
Carlovingian kings. The site of the latter, on the river, a
little below this spot, was in 1200 occupied by a chapel of
the Virgin, converted in 1219 into the Rom. Cath. church of
St. Leonhard; the Gothic choir of 1434 was restored in
1808. On the spire may still be' seen the imperial eagle, be-
stowed by Louis the Bavarian in acknowledgment of ser-
vices rendered to him in defiance of the papal ban. In the
chapel on the r. by the choir is an altar-piece representing
the liberation of St. Leonhard, painted in 1813 by tiie Bava-
rian court-painter Stieler, and presented to the church by Carl
von Dalberg.

Retracing his steps to the Romerberg, and turning east-
wards, the traveller soon reaches the (Rom. Cath.) *DoiiL
(St. Bartholomaus. PI. 8). It was founded in 1238, the choir
erected in 1315—18, and the tower (260 ft.), which is still
unfinished, in 1415 — 1512 (admission 6 kr.). The church was
restored in 1865, and all the sculpture painted and gilt. En-
trance on the N. ^de. On the wall to the right are tomb-
stones of the families of Holzhausen and Sach^enhausen,
equestrian effigies of the 14th cent. At the high -altar the
ceremony of the coronation of the .emperors was performed
by the Elector of Mayence. To the r. is the WahlkapeUe
(election-chapel), where the electors held their final deliberation,
at the entrance to which stands the beautiful monument to
the German king, Count Gunther von Schwarzbnrg, who died
at Frankfurt in 1349, where he had taken refuge from his op-
ponent Charles IV. The 18 coats of arms on the border
belong to the families who erected the monument. The ori-
ginal inscription is in old German, and the new one in Latin.
The wall paintings are of 1427, renovated in 1856. The
high-altar-piece (by Veit, 1851) represents the coronation of
the Virgin. The sacrisl^ to the 1. contains a Descent from

BASDBKXK'g Rhine. 1 1 '

162 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Bridge.

the Grots, attributed to Durer; and a Holy Family, to i2tf6eii8.
In the chapel on the r. by the choir is a Sepulchre with the
sleeping watchmen andeineath, an old sculpture of the 13th
cent. ; next to it is an altar-piece representing St. Bartholomaus,
and a small painting (by Rooae) of the Adoration of the Magi.
The cathedral is generally open till 12 o'clock, but yisitors
are prohibited from walking about during diyine service. If
the doors are closed, admission may be obtained by ringing
at the N. portal (fee 9 kr.; for a party 24 kr.).

On a corner house opposite to the E. side of the cathedral
is an old stone effigy of Luther with an inscription. The
great reformer is said to have addressed the people from this
house, when on his journey to Worms (p. 198).

The churches of St Catherine (PI. 19), the Liehfrauenkirche
(PI. 20), and others, contain no objects of interest.

To the S. E. of the cathedral is the handsome old Bridge
over the Main, built of red sandstone in the year 1340. The
railroad under the first arch connects the E. and W. railway*
stations. In the middle of the bridge a statue of Charlemagne,
executed in red sandstone by Wendelstatt and Zwerger, was
erected in 1844. Near it a cock is seen perched on an iron
pole. According to an old tradition, the architect vowed that
the first living being which crossed the bridge should be sa-
crificed to the devil, and a hapless cock became the victim.
On the restoration of the bridge in 1740 the architect indulged
his exuberant fancy by placing grotesque stone carvings on
the W. parapet on the Sachsenhausen side ; they represent two
artillerymen loading a gun, and beyond them the river-god
Moenus.

Beyond the bridge lies Sachflenhaiuen, a suburb of Frank-
furt, chiefiy inhabited by gardeners and vintners. It was
founded by Charlemagne, who assigned it ^as a residence for
the more unraly of the conquered Saxons, from whom the
place derives its name. To the 1., on the Main, is seen the
Deutach'O-rdenshatts (PI. 14), or Honse of the Teutonic Order
(erected 1709). It is with the church the property of the Arch-
duke Maximilian, the Grand-master of the Order, and is now
employed as a barrack for the Bavarian troops.

On the r. bank of the Main is a row of large barrack-like
houses called Zur schonen Auesichti at the upper end of which
is situated the Town -library (PI. 2) with the inscription:
Studiis Ubertati reddita dvitas. The entrance hall contains a
* marble statue of Goethe in a sitting posture, executed by
P. Marchesi of Milan in 1838, and presented to the library
by three citizens of Frankfurt. PrehrCe Picture^cMery (Tues*
and Thurs. 10 — 12) contains 855 small pictures, most of them

Judtngasse. FRANKFURT. 39, Route. 168

copies. The library itself (72,000 vols.) in the upper rooms
contains many literary curiosities, as well as several Egyptian,
Greek, Roman and German antiquities.

Behind the library is situated the Fremden- Hospital (PI. 15),
or Strangers' Hospital, destined for the reception of servants
and journeymen; near it is the old Jewish Burial-piace and
Jews* Hospital, founded by the Rothschild family in 1830, at
the entrance to the dark and narrow Judengasse (Jews'
street) with its gloomy, dirty and antiquated houses, its nu-
merous passages and brokers' shops.

As early as the 12th cent, many Jews settled in Frankfurt,
but on account of the tyrannical treatment to which they were
subjected they founded the above mentioned street in 1462,
where till 1806 the whole community lived. In the evening,
and on Sundays and holidays, this street was closed with
gates and bars, and no Jew ventured into any part of the
town under a heavy penalty. In spite of this tyrannical and
oppressive treatment, many of the denizens of these unwhole-
some -purlieus flourished, and among them the now enormously
opulent family of Rothschild. Their offices are now in a
comer house between the Zeil and the Judengasse, not far
from the beautiful new Synagogue (PI. 33), built in the oriental
style in 1855.

In a N. W. direction from the new synagogue is situated
the *Z6il, the finest street in Frankfurt, consisting almost ex-
clusively of handsome shops and warehouses, and bounded at
the W. end by the Hauptwache (chief guard -house), and at
the E. by the Police-station.

To the rear of the Hauptwache, in the Schiller (formerly
Parade) Platz, stands Schiller^s Honument, erected in 1864.

Opposite to the Police-station, to the N. W., is the Schafer-
gasse, in which the Old Churchyard is situated, where, to the
r. on entering, the tombstone of Goethe's mother may be
seen, as well as many others of eminent persons.

In front of the Friedberger Thor stands the Hessian
Monument, erected by Frederick William II. of Prussia *^to
the memory of the brave Hessians who fell victorious on this
spot, December 2nd, 1792, fighting for their fatherland." It
consists of masses of rock heaped together, on which a pillar
stands, surmounted by a helmet, sword, and a ram's head, the
latter being emblematical of the attack made by the Hessians
on Frankfurt, at that time occupied by the French under
Custine. On the sides are brazen tablets recording the names
of the fallen, and a Latin inscription annonncing that the
monument was erected by Fred. William , King of Prussia,
"the admiring witness of their bravery.'*

11*

164 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Cemetery.

On the opposite side of the road is situated the *Ariad«-
neum, or Bethmann's Museum (PL 1; admission see p. 157), a
circular building lighted from the top, containing amongst
various objects of art Dannecker*s exquisite group of * Ariadne
on the panther, the artist's master -piece, and deservedly the
pride and boast of Frankfurt. The casts in the museum of
Achilles, Silenns with the young Bacchus, Oermanicus, the
Gladiator, Laocoon, Apollo Belvedere, Venus de Medici, and
Diana of Versailles, are all taken from the original antiques.
Here are also preserved casts of the features of the Emperor
Nicholas and the Prince Lichnowsky, who was brutally mur-
dered near this spot during the revolution of 1848.

The road to the 1. of the Hessian monument leads to the
new *Cemiotery, about y^ M. distant, where the remains of
many celebrities of modern times are interred. It contains
numerous well executed monuments and tombstones, among
which may be mentioned the vault of the von Bethmann family
(E. side farthest to the 1.), which contains an admirable bas-
relief by Thorwaldsen, executed at an expense of 34,000 fl ,
to the memory of a member of the family, who died in con*
sequence of his exertions in rescuing a boy from drowning
in the Arno at Florence. The vault being closed, risitors
must apply to the sexton, who lives at the gate (fee 30 kr.).
Near it is a monument to another member of the same family,
a well executed marble relief representing the angel announcing
the resurrection to the women.

On the N. side of the cemetery a new burial-ground was
laid out in 1845, near the middle of which stands a monu-
ment 'Ho those who fell on Sept. 18th, 1848." Among the
names recorded on its white marble tablets is that of the
murdered Prince Lichnowsky. At the W. end of the en-
closure are interred about 30 of those who fell at the barri-
cades on the same occasion; their graves are marked by
crosses and inscriptions. Near the latter is a large Temple^
erected by the Elector William II. (d. 1847) to his consort,
the Countess Relchenbach. The S. £. side of the cemetery
is bounded by the burying -ground of the Jewish community
(open on Tues. and Thurs. afternoons).

If the traveller now retrace his steps, enter the public
walks (p. 158), which occupy the place of the old fortifications,
and turn to the r., he will reach the Eechenheimer Thar, the
only gate which has preserved intact its ancient exterior. In
the immediate vicinity aie the buildings of the Senokenberg^
Society (PI. 30; adm. see p. 157), which comprise a hospital,
anatomical theatre, botanical garden, and contain a considerable
collection of natural curiosities, the most valuable of which

Stddel Gallery. FRANKFURT. S9, Route, 165

are those brought by the traveller Ruppel from Egypt, Nubia,
Abyssinia, and the Red Sea.

The large house adjoining the above-mentioned buildings
was the residence of the Archduke John in 1848-9, in his
capacity of Regent of the Empire, and is now the property
of the Burgerverein (citizen's club) (PI. 4), to which strangers
may be introduced by a member. The entrance hall contains
a good copy of a celebrated portrait of Goethe by Tiscbbein.
The Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis (PL 36) in the
same street, where the Diet now holds its sessions, may be
recognized by the sentinels posted at the gates.

One of the handsomest buildings in the town is the new
Saalbau, erected by the ''Deutsches Hochstift" and containing
spacious concert and assembly rooms. — The new Lunatic
Asylum^ on the Eschenheimer road, merits the inspection of pro-
fessional men.

The institution to which Frankfurt is perhaps most in-
debted for its reputation as a cradle of the fine arts is the
*StMel Art -institute (PI. 31; adm. see p. 157) in the
Mainzer Strasse, near the railway stations. It was founded
by a citizen of Frankfurt, Joh. Fred* Stadel (d. 1816), who
bequeathed his collection of pictures and engravings, his
houses and a sum of 1,200,000 florins (100,000/.) to the
town, for the purpose of founding a School of Art. The
latter is frequented by about 200 students, and was formerly
under the management of Veit, now under that of Pas-
savant and Steinle. The collection consists of pictures, 30,000
engravings, and drawings by eminent masters, as well as many
excellent casts, and is valued at 480,000 fl. (40,000/.). The
gallery is adorned with many valuable productions of the old
masters, especially those acquired since the death of the
founder, but the institution is more particularly celebrated
for its collection of works by modem artists, which is second
to none in the Rhenish cities.

**8tidel CkdlMT (adm. see p. 157). Catalogues for the uae of the public
in all the rooms. Entrance hall: Coloored engravings from RaphaePs
paintings in the Vatican at Rome; sketch by Corneliits of the Last Judgment,
the original of the fresco in the Ludwigskirche at Munich.

Ist Room, beginning on the r., Italian School: (N,) 29. Mars and Venus,
by Paolo Veronese. (W.) 22. Portrait, by 8eba»tiano del Piombo ; 25. * Four
priests at the throne of the Virgin, by Moretto^ purchased in 1847 for
35,000 fl. (S.) 36. Mary and Child adored by the infant John, by Perugino.
(£.) 24. Mary and Child, St. Sebastian, and St. Anthony, by Moretto; i'28.
Portrait of the Doge M. Antonio Memmo by Tintoretto. (N.) 42. Mary with
John the Baptist and St. Sebastian, by Innocenzio da Imola.

2Dd Room contains chiefly pictures by modern artists; the following
are the moat remarkable: (N.) 332. EzzeUn in prison after the battle of Cas-
sano in 1259 exhorted to repentance by monks, hjLessing; 332. Alpine scene,
by Funk; 326, The Tiburtiuian Sibyl, by Steinle; 336, Daniel in the lions*
den, by Retliei; 841. Lake scene, by Pose. (E.) 334. Landscape scene, house

166 Route 39, FRANKFURT.

la flames, by Lesnng; *331. Boss before the Council of ConttaDce, ia the
background Count CiilunL, the friend of the reformer, a large picture occu-
pying almost the entire E. wall, by Lessing; 333. Wood landscape, by Les-
ting; 349. Sheepfold, by V9rbo9ckho9en; 339. Storm at aea on the Norwegian
coast, by Achtnbach. (N.) 347 (above the door). Norw^an mountain scene,
by 8a<U.

3rd Room. * Overbeck*» celebrated picture of the Triumph of religion
in the arts occupies the entire £. wall. Being a most elaborate work, and
replete with portraits of eminent persons it must be studied with the aid of
the catalogue. (N.) 67. Scenes from the life of John the Baptist, by a pupil
of Rofftr 0/ Bruges. (W.) 102. Father with sick child, by Hoibein the
Yawnger. (0.) 106. Durer'^ portrait of his father; 106. Portrait, by Durer,

Fresco Room: (N.) 357. The arts introduced into Oermany by Chris-
tianity, by Veit. Casts of the bronze doors of the Baptistery at Florence
(which Mich. Angelo said deserred to be the gates of Paradise).

4th. Room contains principally Dutch pictures of no great value. (E.)
132. Child sitting on a stool, by Ruben$. (N.) 146. Portrait, by Rembrandt.
(S.) 124. Portrait, bv Van Dyck, (W.) 145. Portrait, bv Rembrandt. — The
1st room in the wing of the building contains smaller pictures by older
Frankfurt artists, and some Dutch pictures. 3nd Room: 330. The wise and
foolish virgins, by Schadow; 335. Job and his friends, by Subner; drawings
of Steinte's "Sermon on the mount" in ttie chapel of Rheineck (R. 18);
•cenes from Dante, Ariosto, Ac. by Scknorr,

The * Zoological Gkurden (adm. 3ee p. 157) is situated
on the Bockeaheimer road, about ^/^ M. from the gate. The
grounds are tastefolty laid out, and contain a valuable col-
lection of animals, birds, &c.

40. From Frankfurt to Mayence and

Wiesbaden.

Taunus Bailway. Excursion to the Taunua.

By Railway to Castel (Mayence> in 1 hr.; to Wiesbaden in 1% hr..
Fares to Mayence 1 11. 48, 1 11. 9, 42 kr.; to Wiesbaden 9 11. 1&, 1 ft. 24,
and 51 kr. Views on the r. Omnibus Ac. see p, 32.

Since the completion (1862) of the railway-bridge at Ma-
yence, the most direct route (in 1 hr.; fares 1 fl. 54, 1 fi.
12, 45 kr.) to Mayence is by the Heuian-Luckoig railway, via
Niederradf the Forsthaus, with wood-walks, a favorite resort
of the Frankfurters, Schwanheim, Keltersbaeh, Raunheimy Rusgeis-
heim and Biechoffsheim ; before entering the last of these sta-
tions the line unites with the Mayence -Darmstadt railway;
comp. p. 172.

The Taunu8 railway is one of the oldest in Germany,
having been opened in 1838. Immediately on leaving the
town the train passes the GcUlenwarte , one of the towers
which mark the territory of Frankfurt. Beyond Boekenheitn
the Nidda, often mentioned in the history of the French re-
volutionary war, is crossed, and the busy little Nassovian
town of HOchat is reached. The church of St. Justinus at
the latter place is interesting in an architectural point of
view. It was built in 1090 in the form of a piazza, the Go-

HATTERSHEIM. 40. Route. 167

thic choir added in 1443. By a branch railway from Hochst
to Soden (p. 169) in 12 min.; fares: 30, 18, 12 kr.

Stat. HatterBheim. As the train proceeds, a good riew
on the N. side is obtained of the principal peaks of the Tau-
nus, the AHkonig, behind it to the r. the Great Feldberff, and
to the 1. the Little Feldhery (p. 169). The Ho/heimer Chapel,
niQch visited by pilgrims, is also a conspicuous object in the
landscape.

Near FlOrsheim, to the r., are situated the handsome
buildings of the watering-place of Weilbach (sulphur-springs).
A pleasing view may be obtained by ascending the ^^KameC*
(pulpit), a hill surmounted by four trees, y, M. above Dteden-
bergen, and 3 M. to the N. of Weilbach. To the N. are seen
the peaks of the Taunus, to the S. the Melibocus, to the
S.W. the Donnersberg, a part of the Rheingau, and then the
towns of Frankfurt, Worms, Oppenheim, andMayence; to the
N. W. are Johannisberg and the towers of Oeisenheim.

The line now traverses the foot of the long range of vine-
clad hills of Hochheim {Schwan), where, in the best vine-
yards, each plant is not unfrequently valued at a ducat (9s. 6d.).
The most potent wine is yielded by the vineyards surrounding
the old Domdechanei (deanery), now a shooting-box of the
Duke of Nassau. At the point where the vineyards of Hoch-
heim begin, stands (close to the line on the r.) a monument
in the English-Gothic style, bearing the inscription '^Konigin-
Victoria- Berg" (Victoria -Vineyard) in gold letters, and the
English arms in silver, erected by the owner, a speculative
wine merchant of Mayence, to attract the attention of English
travellers.

On entering Castel (p. 146) the line intersects the fortifi-
cations. Station near the Rhine bridge. Omnibus to Mayence,
without luggage, 18 kr.; carriage for 1 person 30, for 2 pers.
36, for 3 pers. 42, and for 4 pers. 50 kr.; each box 6 kr.;
all these fares include bridge-toil. A steam ferry-boat plies
between Castel and Mayence (fares: 4 and 2 kr.), on the ar-
rival of each train. (Tickets for the Taunus line can be pro-
cured at the Mayence booking-office). Porterage from railway-
station to steamboat: each box 6 kr. , travelling-bag 3 kr.;
from station to carriage 3 kr. for each package, no charge
made if the vehicle belong to Castel ; from Castel to Mayence,
for each box 10 kr., travelling-bag 6 kr., several smaller
packages together 10 kr.; bridge-toll (2 kr.) is extra.

The train again intersects the fortifications of Castel, and
leaving Fort MontebeUo on the 1., stops near Biebrich (see
p. 137), and a few minutes later at Wiesbaden (see R. 37).

168 Route 40. KCENIGSTEIN. From Frankfurt

The station (adjoining that of the so-called Right- Rhenish liae,
in contradistinction to the older Rhenish, now Left- Rhenish
railway) is at the extremity of the Wilhelmsstrasse ^ which
consists of new and spacious residences on the 1. and an
avenue on the r., and terminates in the square in front of the
Cursaal.

Exciirsion to the Taunus.

A pedestrian may in two days visit the finest points of this fertile
district. Leaving the train at Hatterahetnif he should first visit Hojheim
(2'/4 M.}, inspect the chapel (% hr.), and then proceed to Eppitein {f^\/^ If.)
and its castle; next to Komgsttin (5 M.); iu the evening to the caatle ana
the Falkensteiu (or with guide from Eppstein to the Botsert and Kouigstein,
7 M.)* — Early next morning the traveller should walk to the sammit of the
Great Feldbtrg (5 If.) by the smaller mountain of the same name ; then to
the Altkonig (3 If.}, and back to Kdaigsteiu (3■^ If.) ; dine, and in the after-
noon walk to Soden, about 3 M. distant, and there take the train to Frank-
fitrt ('/« hr.). — A third day may be well employed In walking from
8oden to Gronthalj Cronbergy Ober-Uraei^ Homhurgy a distance of about
10 H. ; thence to Bonames, and b^ rail to Frankfurt. Even in half a day
a glimpse of this mountainous district may be obtained by starting from
Frankfurt immediately after an early dinner, and proceeding by rftil to Soden
{% hr.), visit the grounds and bath-establishment, ascend the Cronberg (1 hr.S,
take coffee at the Schutzenhof under the cbesuut trees, visit the * castle, and,
leaving the latter on th« N. side, proceed to FaUeenstein (S M.), the keya of
which are kept in the village at the foot of the hiil; walk to Konig stein
(*/« M.); theuce on foot or by omnibus to Soden^ aud by train to Frankfurt
in Va hr.

The road from stat. Hatteraheim CNassauer Hcf) on the
Taunus line to Hofheim is destitute of shade, hut the view
from the Chapel (p. 167) well repays the ascent.

The road through the Lorsbacher Valley to Eppstein passes

through luxuriant meadows, carpeted with flowers, enclosed

by shady slopes, and watered by the rapid Schtcarzbach. At

the extremity of the vttUey, above the old village of Xippsteiny

the castle of the same name is seen situated on a precipitous

rock. It was in ancient times the seat of a powerful faaiily,

which numbered among its members five archbishops and

electors of Mayence between the years 1059 — 1284. The

Protestant church contains several monuments of the family,

which became extinct in 1535. The castle is now In private

hands, and the grounds connected with it are tastefully laid

out. Near Eppstein is the inn Zur Oelmuhle, charges as in

Frankfurt.

The *Kos«ert (1563 ft.) may be ascended best from the Eppstein side, and
affords a fine prospect of the valleys of the Rhine and Main.

The road from Eppstein to Konigstein leads through a
picturesque mountain ravine to Fischhach (ly, M.) after which
it crosses a high table-land as far as Schneidhain (2 M.), and
then ascends to Xoem^^stein CLowe), ly, M. farther. Above
the village are the ruins of the fortress of the same name
(1321 ft;, demolished by the French in 1596. From 1581 it

to Mayence, GREAT FELDBERG. 40. Route. 169

belonged to the electors of Mayence, whose arms may still
be seen above the entrance. After the re-capture of Mayence
in 1753 (R. 31), the castle was employed as a state-prison.
The platform affords a similar *Tiew to that from the FaU
kenstein (see below). The Dnke of Nassau possesses a hand-
some villa in the vicinity. Hydropathic estab. Omnibus to
Soden see p. 168; diligence to Hochst 3 times daily.

About lYs M. to the £., the ruined castle of Falkenstein
(1532 ft.) crowns the summit of a well wooded hill, and com-
mands a fine view. It was the family possession of the power-
ful archbishop Kuno of Treves (R. 40), and was built at the
commencement of the 13th cent.

Guide to the Feldberg 40 kr.; donkey with guide 1 fl. 12 kr.,
or, including the castle of Falkenstein, 1 fl. 24 kr. (The ser-
vices of a guide may however be easily dispensed with).
About IV2 ^* fi'om Konigstein the pedestrian must leave the
Frankfurt and Limburg road, and turn to the r., cross the
Little Feldberg (2547 ft.), about 1 hour's walk, and in ^^ hr.
more the * Great Feldbei^ (2708 ft.) is reached. It is the
highest peak of theTaunus; the summit consists of quartzose
rock, and the slopes of tale and day-slate. In fine weather
the view from the top is very extensive; it comprehends the
Rhine and the Main to the E. as far as the Inselsberg, the
Rhongebirge, and Spessart; to the S. Melibocus, Konigsstuhl,
Mercurius near Baden, and the Vosges; to the W. the Don-
nersbcrg , Hunnsruck , and the mountains of the Moselle ; to
the N. ^e Seven Mountains and those of Westphalia. Re-
freshments and if need be, a night's lodging may be procured
at the '^FeldberghaUB." The block of quartz which crowns
the summit is mentioned in an old document as early as 8 12,
under the name of Brunhildenstein. A triangular stone placed
here indicates the frontiers of Nassau, Frankfurt, and Hessen-
Homburg. On the declivity the ruin of Ober^Reiffenhery is
situated. (From the Feldberg to Homburg with guide in 3 hrs.)

The AltkOniir (^^^^ ^^) i^ ^ Va hour's walk to the N. of
the Great Feldberg. The ascent is somewhat fatiguing, but
possesses considerable interest for the antiquarian. The sum-
mit is surrounded by a gigantic doable wall, constructed of
loose stones, erroneously ascribed to the Romans, but more
probably erected by the ancient inhabitants of the country as
a place of refuge in time of war. The higher of the walls
is in a good state of preservation.

A good road descends S. from Konigstein to Soden (* Hotel
Franz near the Curhaus; * Eur op. Hof^ hotel and bath-estab.;
Frankfurter Hof, a quiet house; Holland. Hof; Hotel garni zum
Stolzenfel9)j 3% M. distant. It is a flourishing little watering-

170 Route 40. CR0NBER6.

place (3000 patients annually) with handsome Ourhaus and
tastefnlly- arranged gardens and grounds. The villas in the
environs, most of them in the Swiss style, helong to citizens
of Frankfurt. Omnibus between Konigstein and Soden in the
morning only; diligenoe between Soden and Konigstein 3
times daily in 35 min., fare 18 kr.; between Hdchst and
Konigstein 3 times daily, fare 35 kr. Railway between Soden
and Hdchst see p. 168.

About 2 M. to the £. of Konigstein is situated the Oron-
herg (^ Schutzenkof), celebrated for the productiveness of its
orchards. The castle above the town, a ruin of coilsiderable
extent, commands a magnificent *view of the surrounding
mountains and plain ; it well repays the aseent to the summit
of the tower, which is accomplished by 13S wooden steps
(the adventurous scrambler may reach the highest point of the
belfiry by means of a ladder). Konigsberg, or Cronberg, being
both situated in the heart of the Taunus, are the best head-
quarters for pedestrians who desire to become better acquainted
with this beautiful mountain district Omnibus 3 times
daily to Weisskirchen , stat. on the Homburg railway. The
mineral baths of Cronthal (1 V4 M. to the S.), now little fre-
quented, are delightfully situated in the midst of a chesnut
grove, and are noted for the salubrity of the air. Rooms 5 fl.
and upwards per week; table d'hote 42 kr.

About 10 M. to the £. of Konigstein or Soden lies Hoool-
burg (Fcur Seasons, Russian, EingUsh, Imperiai, and Hessian
Hotels), the capital of the Landgrafschaft of Hessen-Hombnrg,
and of late years a much frequented watering*place (average
annual number of visitors 8000). It is situated on one of the
bills at the foot of the Great Feldberg, and is, independendy
of the baths, a place of no importance. The activity of the
place is almost entirely centred in the *Gurhaus and avenues
which lead to the chalybeate springs, % M. distant.

The palace of the Landgrave of Hessen-Hombnrg is situated
here, but, with the exception of some family portmits and a
small collection of Roman relics found at the Saalburg, con-
tains nothing worthy of note.

For tke antiquarian, tiie BMdbiuf is au object of eousiderable interest.
It is the remnant of an old Roman fort, situated on a wooded ridge of tlie
Taunns (1304 ft.), about 5 M. to the N. of Homburg, a few hundred yds. to
the 1. of the road to Usingen. It belonged to the extensiye line of fbrtifi-
eations, known uoder the name of Lime» imp. Rom,y whieh protected the
Roman possessions from the incursions of the Germans, and was undoubtedly
built by Germanicus to replace that erected by Drusns, destroyed a.d. 9, after
the defeat of Varus (poiito cattello super testigia patemi pnundii in
inont0 Tauno eaepeditum, exeroitum in Catto$ rupit. Taciti Annal. I. S6).
Ptolemy mentions it as Arctaunon,'- It consists of a square, 705 ft. by 465 ft.,
with rounded corners, and surrounded by two deep fosses. In the centre
stands the Prcetorium^ 153 ft. by 132 ft., with foundations of sandstone;

DARMSTADT. 41. Route, 171

h«re are also two large blocks of sandstone formiog the pedeatal of a large
bronse statue, traces of which were fooud among the ruins some years ago.

By railway from Hombnrg to Frankfurt in '/^ hr.; fares
1 fl., 36 kr., 21 kr.

41. From Frankfort to Heidelberg.

Main-Neckar line. Station to the S. of the Taunus station (p. 157).
To Darmstadt in '/^ hr., to Heidelberg in 2 hra. more. Fares to Darmstadt
I ik. dy 42, and 90 kr.; to Heidelberg 3 ii. 33, 2 fl. 21, and 1 II. 33 kr.; to
Mannheim in the same time and at the same fares as to Heidelberg. Exp.
trains dearer. Omnibus Ac. see p. 32. The seats ou the £. (left) side of
the train sfaonld be selected for the sake of the view.

As soon as the train has crossed the Main bridge, it di«
verges to the 1. on the Offenbach branch, and passes (1.) the
castie-like farm-house of Herr von Bethmann. The country
between Frankfurt and Darmstadt presents few features of
interest.

Darmstadt (* Traube, R. and A. 1 fl. 6, B. 36 kr.; Darm-
stddter Hof; Hotel Kohler, the nearest to the station; * Alte
Po8t^ opp. to the Palace; ^StengeCs CafCy opp. to the stat.),
the capital and residence of the court of the Grand-duchy of
Hessen, with a pop. of 32,000 (2500 Rom. Cath.), was up to
the close of the 18th cent, the capital of the Grafschaft
of Katxenelnbogen , and a place of no importance. The
Grand-duke Ludwig I. (d. 1830) erected the new part of
the town with its broad streets and handsome houses, and to
him alone Darmstadt is indebted for its present prosperity.
In 1844 the Ludwiysdenkmal was erected by his ^'grateful
people" to the memory of this prince. The summit of the
column (fee 18 kr.) commands a good view of the town and
its environs, but the surrounding country is flat and unin-
teresting.

The Schlo88f the greater part of which was erected about

the middle of ^e last century, is situated at the extremity of

the Rheinstrasse, which leads from the station iQto the town.

It contains a valuable Library of 200,000 vols, as well as

some MSS. and typographical curiosities (open to the public

9 — 12 a. m. and 2 — 4 p. m.). The collections of pictures,

relics, costumes, coins, &c. are open on Tues., Thars., and

Sand. 10 — 12; admission at other times may be procured for

a fee of 1 fl.

Tiie *Pfotart-falltty, in the upper story of the palace, coataiiia about
700 paintings, many of them of considerable value. 1st Room. 79 The
Castle of Heidelberg, bjr Schirmerf 66&, Sanset, by Ltst&tg. — 2nd Room.
(W.) unnumbered: Landscape, by C/ir. MorgeiMtem; The treachery of Judas,
by C. H. Hoffmann, ^ Zrd. Room. Old Oermaa School: 136. The dying
Mary, by Sckcrtel. (N.) 201. Portrait, by HolbHn, (B.) 672. Madonna, by
Memling. — 4th Room. Dutch pictures: 678. Portrait of the painter Erasmus
Quellyn, by Van Dijekj 419. Chri;»t scourged, by Rembrandt. (W.) 284.

172 Route 41. ZWINGENBER6. From Frankfurt

Nymphs of Diana returaing from the chase, by Rembratidi ; the nymph -with
the red robe is a portrait of the painter's first, and the nvrnph with the
hares of his second wife; 686. Portrait, by Van Lyek. — bth Room. 691,
692. Portraits by Van Dyck; 366. Portrait, by Rembrandt of his second
wife. — 6th Room. (N.) 420. Portrait, by Van der BeM; 271. Woman
combing a boy's hair, by Rembrandt; 415. Madonna, by Van Dyck. — 7th
Room. French pictures of no great value. — 8th Room. (N^ 558. Sleeping
Venus, by Titian.-- 9th Room. 594. Carthnsian monk, by Titian; .'>72. St.
Michael, by Raphael; 573. Peter's denial, by Domenichino; 580. Portrait by
Titian. (E.) 592. St. Franciscus, by Guercino ; 628. Sketches of the <*Mar-
riage at Cana" in the Louvre, by Paolo Veronese. (M.) St. John, by Ra-
phael. — The adjoining room contains a cabinet of natural history, with a
valuable collection of fossils and skeletons of antediluvian animals , among
others that of a mastodon, found at Bppelsheim, in Rhenish Uessen.

In the middle story; 1st Room. Roman antiquities. * Mosaic pave-
ment of a Roman bath, dug up at Vilbel in 1849. — 2nd Room. Carved ivory
and alabaster ornaments, coins, &c. — 3rd Room. Armour and weapons. —
4th Room. Model of the Schloss, ancient costumes, &c. — 5th Room. Drawings
and engravings.

*^It is not saying too much to assert that masterpieces of art, and curi-
osities of all countries and all ages are here to be met with.'* Qoethe, 1814.

To the N. of the Palace is the Herrenyarten, consisting of
public grounds and walks. To the r. on entering it is the
Theatre, and to the 1. the ExercierhauSj now a military maga-
zine. Between these two buildings are erected statues of the
Landgrave Philip the Generous (d. 1567) and his son George I,
(d. 1590), the founder of the Grand-ducal family. In the
Herrenyarten to the r. is a mound railed in and surrounded
by shrubs, under which rest the remains of the Landgravine
Henrietta Carolina (d. 1774), mother of the queen of Fred.
William II. of Prussia; the unpretending urn erected on the
spot by Frederick the Great bears the inscription: "Femina

sexUf xngento vir.

To the E. of Darmstadt are beautiful and extensive woods and plantn-
tions. Picturesque walks (N. B.) to the shooting-box and park of Krantch-
stein (3 M.); (S. £.) to the Ludwigseiche , or Ludwig's oak {4*4 M.), wMeh
commands an extensive view of the Odenwald, Spessart, Yogelsberg, Taunus,
and Melibocus; (8.) to the Ludtoigshohe and Marienhohe (2 M^, and to
* Frankenstein (7% M.)

From Darmstadt to Mayence direct bpr rail, in 1 hr. Fares 1 fl. 43 kr.,
1 <!., and 39 kr. Country flat and uninteresting. The Rhine is crossed above
the influx of the Main by the handsome new bridge, completed in 1969.

On the mountains to the 1. of the station Eberstadt stands
the stately ruin of Frankenstein, and beyond Biekenhach (p. 175),
the zinc-covered tower of the Alsbaeher Sehhss.

At the station of Zwingenbergr {*L6we, R. 36, B. 18 kr.)

commences the picturesque Bergstrasse, leading to Heidelberg.

The *Bergstrft8se runs through orchards and pleasant villages along *
range of hills, partly wooded and partly covered with vineyards » on which
Jiere and there are situated ruined castlee. To the W. between the road
and the Rhine, a disUnce of 10—12 M., is extended a wide and fertile plain.
Though wanting in water, this district is one of the most beau^ul in Ger-
many, but the traveller will scarcely be able to appreciate it from the win-
dows of a railwaycarriage. The name of ^^Bergstrasse" is given to the W.
slopes of the Odenwald, and is not confined to the road (^Str€use). One of
the highest points is the *MeiiShomm, or Xalehm (16S0 ft.) The ascent Iron

to Heidelberg. AUERBACH. 4L Route. 173

Zwingenbez^ is easy (1 hr.), and should be UDdertaken. Guide (unnecessary)
34 Icr., or for the whole day 1 fl. The excursion may also be made by car-
riage (4 ti.)'f if the traveller desire, he may then drive on to the Felsberg
(p. 176), and back by Reichenbach (p. 176) to Zwingenbei^ (6 fl*)* — Pe-
destrians may easily make the ascent without a guide by attending to the
following directions: The road leads E. from the Lowe at Zwingenberg and
ascends the hill, then to the r., following the water-conduit for about 8 min ;
a good path then leads over the Lttgieberg; in 25 mio. more the carriage-
road, furnished with direction-posts, is regained. Where the high wood ter-
minates, a path leads to the 1., by a young beech-wood, to the tower (80 ft.)
on the summit, erected in 1777 bv Ludwig IX., Landgrave of Hessen.

The MelibocttS consists entirely of granite. The view embraces the vniley
of the Rhine from Speyer to Mayence, the Yosges, and the Donnersberg; the
Main as far as the Taunus and vogelsberg. A little to the W. of, and some
20 ft. lower than the tower is the best point of view, which commands a
prospect of the entire plain from Mannheim to Darmstadt. The keys of tower
must be procured at the forester's (Hey 1) at Zwingenberg; in fine weather he
is generally on the spot (fee for 1 pers. 9 kr.. for a party 30 kr.). — From
the Melibocus to the Auerbaeher Schloss direct in V, hr.

The next station is Auerbach (* Krone^ R. 48 kr., weekly
3 — 4 fl., B. 20, D. 48 kr., a pleasant resting-place; Nack's
restaurant at the mill in the middle of the village, and at the
"Schloss'' in favoarable weather; refreshments at the Fursten-
lager), a picturesque village with a small castle and park in
the vicinity, the property of the Grand-duke. This place
is a favorite summer resort of families from the neighbouring
towns, and even from the N. of Germany; good head-quarters
for pedestrians who wish to explore the Bergstrasse and the
W. part of the Odenwald (p. 175).

The * Auerbaeher Schloss (2 M. from the Melibocas, same
distance from Auerbach) is situated on an eminence (1024 ft.),
and is said to have been founded by Charlemagne. It was
afterwards the property of the monastery of Lorsch (see p. 174),
{ind then of the Electorate of Mayence. In 1674 it was taken
and blown up by Turenne, but the two towers stood till 1806,
when one of them fell, and was rebuilt in 1852. In the
castle-yard a number of old Hessian warriors held a festival
in 1840 to commemorate the campaigns in which they had served
together from 1792 to 1815, principally under their leader Prince
Emil; this event is recorded by a stone tablet on the wall.
The view is less extensive but more picturesque than that from
the Melibocus. The custodian (usually on the spot) opens the
tower-gate (fee 9 — 30 kr.).

A broad road leads through a beech-wood from the castle to the Hoch-
stddter Valley, by a mineral spring and )a mill, to the Neun Aussichten
(9 views), the Gfiampignonf and the Fwrttenlager (3Vs M.) ; thence to 8chon-
berg (IVi M.), from which a delightful view may obtained from the castle-
garden and church. From Schonberg through the valley of the same name
to Bensheim (1% M.)

BeiUBheixn {Sonne; Post), a busy little town in a picturesque
situation, besieged in vain during eleven days in 1504 by the
Landgrave of Hessen and the Dukes of Brunswick and Meck-
lenburg, as an inscription on the gate-way records.

174 Route 41. HEPPBNHEIM.

To the r. tn the plain, on the Wetcknitt^ 3 M. distant, lies the
market-town of Lonehf with the mibs of a lionaatery, founded by Charle-
magne, to which in 788 he banished Tassilo, duke of Bavaria, who had
been condemned to death as a traitor. The Ckureh was erected about the
year 1090.

Near Heppenlieixn {*Halber Mond) on the 1., S. of the
road, is situated the Landberg, a hill sarmoanted by three
trees, where the Counts of Starkenburg used to hold their
tribunals. The church of Heppenheim was founded by Charle-
magne, according to an inscription bearing the date of 805.

Tbe Starkenbiuv (!'/, U. from Heppenheim), erected in 1064 by an
abbot of Lorsch, captured by the Swedes and Spaniards in the 30 years'
war, and besieged in vain by i'urenne iu 1645 aud 1674, has only lately been
quite abandoned. It gives tbe name to a province of Hessen. Fine view
from the tower.

Immediately after passing Heppenheim the train enters the
dominions of Baden. At Hemsbachy the following station, is a
country seat of a member of the Rothschild family.

Before entering Weinheim {Pfdlzer Hof, R. 48, B. 24 kr.,
74 M. from the station; Carlsberg, in the market-place) the
train crosses the Weschnitz. Weinheim with its handsome new
church, is the most considerable and beautifully situated town
on the Bergstrasse. Its towers and fosses, and the old build-
ings, which once belonged to the Templar and Teutonic knights,
bear testimony to its former importance. Hubberger^ the best
wine of the Bergstrasse, is produced near Weinheim.

To the E. stands the old castle of Windeek, the property of the monas-
tery of Lorsch iu the 12th cent., afterwards of tbe Palatinate, commanding
a remarkably beautiful view. Delightful walks through the valleys of (rorjr-
heim and Btrkenau. At the entrance to the former village is erected a stone,
in memory of the peasants of the district who were driven out of their val>
leys end cruelly massacred by the French in 1799. '

At Gross- Sachsen, said to have been founded by Charle-
magne, the line leaves tbe Bergstrasse, and turns S. E. to
Ijadenburg^ (Adler), the Lupodunum of the Romans, the walls
and towers of which, as well as its fine old Gothic church,
give it an air of importance. The stone bridge which here
crosses the Neckar was the scene of several skirmishes during
the revolution of 1849; some of the cannon balls are still to
be seen in the walls of the station-buildings.

At Stat. Friedrtcks/eld (omnibus to Schwetzingen, see p. 29)
the Mannheim train diverges to the r., while the Heidelberg
line runs parallel to the Mannheim and Heidelberg Railway.

Between Weinheim and Heidelberg the peculiar beauty of
the Bergstrasse is seen to the best advantage, and this stage
(12 M.) should, if possible, be performed on foot The road
leads through the villages of Oross-Sachsen (good red wine),
SchrieshMm with the Strahlenburg in the background. Hand-
schucksheim and Neuenheim (*Waldhorn), where Heidelberg

MELIBOCUS. 42. Route. 176

(R. 43) at the foot of the hill with its imposing castle, and

the Konigsstnhl in the rear, first bursts on the view. On
the 1. side of the road rises the precipitous Heiligenbery,

42. The Odenwald.

(Comp. Map p. 172.)

Pedestrian tour of one day. From Bickenbach to the FeUberg \%
2 hrs., thence to Litideufels iu 3Vs hrs., and by carriage in VL hrs. through
the valley of the WesckniU to Birkenau and Weinheim, or, if poaaible, from
Birkeuau to Weinheim on foot over the Wagenburg in 1'/, hr.

Tour of three davs. Ist day, as above as far as Linden/eh; 2nd day,
across the Dromm to Waldmichelbach in S'/g hrs., thence by Ober^ and
Uhter'Sckonmattenwag to Btrsckhora in 3'/^ hrs. (or by Sckonau to Neckar-
ateinach in 5 hrs.); 3d day, from Hirschhorn to Neckarsteinach in 2 hrs.,
and thence to Heidelberg in 2'/% hrs.

Tonroffoardays. 1st day, as above to Lindenfela; 2nd day, by
Oumpen to ReickeUheim in IVi hr. , by carriage through Gerspren* ani
Mickelstadt in 3 hrs. (or on foot through Ostem and Moseau iu SV* hrs.) to
Erbach ; 3nd day, to Beer/elden in 2'/, hrs. (better by carriage thus far), then
through the QananeUbacker Thai to Eberbach; 4th day, to Hirackkom in
2 hrs., to Neckarsteinack in 2 hrs., and thence to Heidelberg in 27^ hrs.

The Odenwald is the wooded mountain district which ex-
tends between Darmstadt and Heidelberg, a distance of 40 M.,
and is 24~>30 M. in breadth. Its valleys and finest points of
view are well worth visiting, but are, as well as its inns, in-
ferior to those of the Black Forest.

The best known summit of the Odenwald is the Kelibocus
(see p. 172); the ascent is usually made from Bickenbach or
Zwingenberg.

Bickenbach (next station to Zwingenberg) is the best point
for commencing a ramble in this district; thence £. (post-
omnibus 3 times daily, 14 kr.) to {V/2 M.) Jugenheim (* Rind-
fuss), a picturesquely-situated village, in the middle of which
a road through a gate to the r. ascends through well kept
grounds, past the ruins of a monastery, to the residence of
Prince Alexander of Hessen, a general in the Austrian army:
fine view from the terrace. The pedestrian should next ascend
to the r. through the grounds, and, at the signr-post indicating
the way to the Feisberg, turn to the 1. round the hill which
commands a pretty glimpse of the chateau and the plain of the
Rhine. A quarter of an hr. more conducts him to another
sign-post, where the path turns to the 1. through shady plan-
tations ; in another Yi hr. the path to the 1. must be ascended,
which in about % ^^* leads to a sign-post. About 300 yds.
farther a path diverges from the carriage road to the r., passes
a fir- wood, and leads (in 20 min.) to the Forester's house
on the *Felsberg (1578 ft.), where refreshments and tolerable
accommodation for the night may be obtained. The view to

176 Route 42. REICHENBACH. The Odenwald.

the £. embraces a great part of the Odenwald, and extends
to the Spessart and Aschaffenburg (much more extensive than
from the Melibocus); to the W. and N. lie the plains of the
Rhine and Main as far as the Donnersberg and Tannus, but
they are partially hidden by the Melibocns and Frankenstein.
A good road leads from the Felsberg to the Melibocus (4 M.)
which cannot well be missed; the Auerbacher Schloss (p. 173),
4 M. distant, may also be visited from the Felsberg. The road
to it, termed the *'^neun Krumme", is picturesque, and leads
first through wood, then across some fields to the village of
Balkhousen y then to the 1. through a wood which it finally
skirts.

Near the Forester^s house (5 min.) lies the Altarstein, a
nearly cubic block of syenite, and lower down, in a small
gaily, is seen a column {Riesensdule, 32 ft. long) of the same
material, both of which must have been quarried on the spot,
but when and by whom is unknown. The Felsenmeer (rocky
sea), on the road to Reichenbach, and 5 min. walk from the
^^Riesensaule," consists of weathered and rounded blocks of
syenite which lie scattered about in huge and confused masses
on a sloping space, in breadth about 200, and in length about
500 paces — an island of rocks surrounded by forest and ex-
tending almost to the valley. This phenomenon is accounted
for by the smaller and looser masses having been washed
away by the rain and the action of the elements, the larger
and more solid alone remaining.

The path now descends a somewhat steep hill to Rei-
chenbach (*Traube), a village on the Lauterbach, 4 M. to
the N. £. of Bensheim (p. 173). [Travellers wishing to return
from this point to the Bergstrasse should not omit to visit
Schonberg (*Rettig) (beautiful view from the church), and the
castle and grounds of Count Erbach- Schonberg.]

The road here crosses the brook and leads up the valley
on the way to Lindenfels; it should, however, again be left
in about % hr., and the path pursued to the r., past some
old copper mines, to the Hohenatein, a group of quartzose
rocks commanding a very pleasing prospect of the valley and
mountains. In 5 min. more the hill should be ascended to
the 1., then past some houses of Unter- Reidelhack^ and back
to the above-mentioned main road, which is not again to be
diverged from. The whole walk from Reichenbach to Lin-
denfels traverses picturesque valley-scenery, but does not offer
much variety.

About 1 Yi M. from the point where the traveller regains
the high road, he passes through the small village of Eolm-
bach, and about % M. farther reaches a point marked by

Tt.Mxtna'^—M ^n-Duiaiv

{jAitMW^dA «-u<i .»eU|.>t'iit)>^

DleAtirg

7%e Odenwaid. LINDENFELS. 42. Route. 177

benches and a group of trees, from which a fine view is ob-
tained of the extensively wooded, but fertile mountain district;
Lindenfels with its stately mined castle stands out picturesque-
ly in the foreground; beyond is the broad yalley of the
Weschnitz, thickly sprinkled with villages; the back-ground is
formed by a chain of mountains, above which rises the tower
on the Konigsstuhl near Heidelberg.

The road now leads through a beautiful beech-wood, in-
terspersed with boulders of granite, to Lindenfels (*Har/e;
Hess. Hof) picturesquely situated on an eminence, and com-
manded by the considerable ruins of the castle. The latter
was formerly the property of the Palatinate, but dismantled
by Turenne in 1674. Near it are black-lead mines.

On the beautiful Waldherg^ to the £., is situated a small
circular wooden temple, called the * Ludwigshohe , 1% M.
distant from Lindenfels , which commands a fine view of the
neighbourhood; and by ascending for another ^^ hr., the pe-
destrian may reach a point from which the Spessart is visible.

From Lindenfels to Ueppeuheim (p. 174) on the road to Furth is
a walk (at first with guide, IS kr.) of 2 hrs. ; the path leads by Eulsbach,
ErJenbach, Mittershausen and Kirchhansen.

From Lindenfels to Weinheim by carriage (4 fl.) through the valley
of the We9chnitz in 2'/^ hrs. Pedestrians should descend to the S. of Linden-
fels; after 10 min. the path leads to the 1. through the wood; in 25 miu.
more, over a slight eminence, covered with fir-wood, and '/•! M. farther Flirth
is reached {Lowe; good beer at Heis's^ opp. to the inn), a small town about
11 M. from Weinheim. The footpath (shorter than the road) leads by Fahr-
bach in 1 hr. to Rimbach ('Nic. Geist), then by the road through Morlen-
bachf ReitseHf and Birkenau to Weinheim.

Between Birkenau (Birkenauer Hof) and Weinheim (2 M.)
the road winds through the narrow and romantic valley of the
Weschnitz^ enclosed by granite rocks. But the path over the
*Wagenherg (4M.) is far preferable. Near the W. end of Bir-
kenau, on the 1. bank of the Weschnitz opposite to the pump,
the path ascends; in about 25 min. it enters the corner of
the wood and tnrns sharp off to the ).; Va ^* farther it
leaves the broad road which leads into the valley of Gorz-
heim, and ascends a steep hill to the r., and, after 200 — 300
yards, to the r. again; then about V/^ M. along a tolerably
level path through the wood, round the N. £. slope of the
Wagenberg to the castle of Windeck (p. 174), and finally a
descent of ^/^ M. to Weinheim. This walk commands a series
of the most beautiful views, first of the entire Weschnitz Thai
to Lindenfels, with the basaltic peak of Otzberg, looking like
a ruined castle, in the background ; then, as the traveller pro-
ceeds round the mountain, the broad valley of the Rhine, with
Weinheim and Windeck in the foreground, and a great part
of the Palatinate as far as the Donnersberg and the Haardt
Babdbkf.b*8 Rhine. 12

178 Route 42. HIRSCHHORN.

mountains, come gradually in sight. The Melibocns and Fels-
berg at the commencement, and the Wagenberg at the end,
are undonbtedly the finest points in the whole ezcorsion.

Travellers wishing to spend several days in the Odenwald,
may remain the first day in Lindenfels and ascend the Lnd-
wigshohe (see p. 177), and proceed the next morning ou foot
to Furth (3 M.). The footpath thence to the Promm cannot
well be missed (but it is safer to take a guide as far as the
wood, 72 hr.). After 20 min. the turn to the r. must be
taken, and 5 min. farther a narrow footpath to the r., which
for a short distance skirts the wood, crosses the brook, and
then enters the wood and ascends; after 25 min. a large
meadow in the wood is reached, which the path skirts;
25 min. more brings the pedestrian to the Bronun (1780 fL),
one of the most elevated points of the Odenwald, commanding
a good survey of the valley of the Weschnitz, and in the
distance the plain of the Rhine. The house on the summit
must then be passed and the ridge of the mountain followed
(Yj M. from the house, a fine view of the valley of the Rhine
is obtained from some rocks among the bushes on the r.).
Then a gradual descent to the little town of Waldmichelbach
(* Gartner, near the Prot. church).

From Waldmichelbach the traveller may take the high road
to Ober'SchonmaMenwayj but here he should leave it, and "walk
through the rich pastnral valley of the Lax by UrUer-Schdn-
mattenwag, Corsika^ and Langenthai to Hirschhorn, The path
cannot be missed. Another path leads from Waldmichelbach
by SiedeUbrunn and Heiligkreuzsteinach to Schonau (12 M.), a
small but ancient town which stands on the ruins of the once
rich and celebrated monastery of the same name. It was
founded in 1136, and in 1560 given by the Elector Palatine
Frederick III. to some French refugees who built the village.
From Schonau through the romantic valley of the Steinach to
Neckarateinach in 1 hr.

From Waldmichelbach an interesting path leads by Siedeis-
brunn in 1 y, hr. to Oberabgteinaehy and through the Lohrbaeker
Thai in 1% hr. to Birkenau (p. 177).

Hirschliom (* ^^^hold; Langbein) lies in a remarkably
picturesque situation at the foot of the stately castle of the
same name, once the property of the powerful family von
Hirschkom, by whom the Carmelite monastery at the foot of
the rock was built; the chapel still stands, and contains many
tombstones of members of the family. The view of the town

NECKARSTEINACH. 42, Route. 179

and castle from the road to Neckarsteinach is extremely
beautiful.

Keckarsteinach f*irarfe; see p. 186) is situated on the
Neckar and commanded by four castles, the highest of which,
the MiUelhurg^ has been restored in the old style. From
Neckarsteinach by Neckargemund to the Wolfsbrunnen and
Heidelberg Castle, see p. 186.

Those who may wish to penetrate still more deeply into

the Odenwald, visit Erbach, and ascend the Katzenbuckeiy should

proceed on the second day from LindenfeU to ReicheUkeim

(4 M.), a prettily situated village, commanded by the Castle

of Reichenberg, visible at a great distance.

Half an hour's walk to the N. of Reichelsheim, in a wild and lonely
wooded mountain district, lies the ruined castle of Rodetuteiny popularly
believed to be haunted by the wild huntsman and his comrades.

From Reichelsheim the traveller is recommended to take
a carriage to Gersprenz, Michehtadt (Hydropathic estab.), and
Erbach^ a drive of 3 hrs. (or on foot from Reichelsheim to
Osiern. Obermossau, and Erbach in Sy^. hrs.) Erbach (^Burg
Wildenstein; Krone) is situated in the Miimlingthal , about
12 M. to the E. of Lindenfels. The castle of Count Erbach
contains a considerable *collection of ancient armour, once worn
by well-known historical characters, old fire-arms, relics,
vases, &c. In the chapel may be seen the stone coffin in
which the bones of Charlemagne, his wife Emma, and her
sister Qisela once reposed. An ancient helmet, found on the
battle-field of Cannae , is also an object of interest (fee 24 kr.)

From Erbach to Beerfelden (*Breimer), a distance of
7 Va M., and thence down the Gammelsbacher Thai to Eberbach
(7% M.), the traveller had better proceed by carriage, as the
wooded valley presents but little variety. From Eberbach (*Krone)
the ascent of the Xatzenbuckel (2094 ft.), the highest point
of the Odenwald, is usually made. The watch-tower (keys
at the forester's at Katzenbach) commands a fine prospect of
the valley of the Neckar, Baden, Wurttemberg as far as the
Alb, and the Black Forest.

The district between Eberbach and Hirschhorn (6 M.) is
wild and romantic. The valley of the Neckar is narrow, and
enclosed by steep, well-wooded mountains. From Hirschhorn
by Neckarsteinach to Heidelberg see above.

43. Heidelberg.

Hotels* At the station: *H5teI Schrieder (Kiihne), R. from 1 H., L.
15, B. 36, D. 1 fl. 30, A. 24 kr.; Victoria see p. 180. In the town, 1 M.
from the station: *Prince Charles, and near it the *Adler (Eagle), in
the Rornmarkt; *Rassi8cher Hof (also H6tel garni); *Earop&ischer
Hof {^Schrieder) in the Anlage; *BadisGher Hof, Hauptstrasse ; •Hol-

12'

180 Route 43, HEIDELBERG.

lindischer Hof, at the Neckar bridge. Chaises in all these hoteU oearly
the same: R. 1 fl., L. 12, B. 30 kr., D. ezc. W. 1 fl. 12, A. 24 kr. — Second-
class ions: Bayrischer Hof, R. 48 kr., D. 1 fl., B. 24 kr., is at the same
time a restaurant; *Darm8tadter Hof, both near the station. In tlie town:
*Ritter and Prins Max, Muller's Victoria Hotel (Hotel garni) in the
Anlage.

Oafta. Wachter; Thiele; Krall, corner of the Hanptstr. and the
Friedrlehsstr.; good beer at the Bremeneck, in the Bargweg.

Newspapers at the Museum in tbe Ludwigsplatz, opposite to the
University.

Swimming baths at the Neckar, at the Mannhelmer- and Carls-Thor
(13 kr.)- River baths near Werle's Oil mill.

Onmibus between the town and the station (or steamboat- wharf) 6 kr..
with luggage 12 kr.

Oarriayes (Stands in the Ludwigsplatz and Kornmarkt): between the
station and tow^n for 1 — 2 pers. 12 kr. each, for 3—4 pers. 9 kr. each, boxes
6 kr. each. By time: '/« hr. for 1 — 2 pers. 18 kr. , for 3 — 4 pers. 24 kr. ;
1 hr. 1 II. or 1 fl. 12 kr. — To the CastU 2 fl.; Woif»hrunneny and back by
the road 2 fl.; Wolfsbrunnen and Castle 3 fl.; Cattle and HSolkeneur Sy^ fl. ;
Castle J Molkencur^ and Wol/sbrunnen 4% fl. ; Castle, Molkencur^ Konigt-
stuhl and Wol/sbrunnen, for 2 pers. d'A fl., for more than 2 pers. 11 il.; to
Schwetzingen, for the whole day 5 '/« fl., naif a day Z% fl. ; to Neckarsteinach,
for the whole day 6, half day 4 fl.

Donkeys to the Castle 24 kr., back 12 kr. ; to the Ccw/to, Molkencur and
back 1 fl. 12 kr. ; to the Wol/sbrunnen 1 fl., there and back 1 fl. 12 kr. ; to
the Konigsstuhl IV2 ^-, there and back IV4 A*; to the Konigsstuhl and back
by the Wol/sbrunnen 2 fl. 24 kr. ; for waiting 30 kr. per honr. Donkey-
stands on the path leading from the Kornmarkt to the Castle.

Bailways. To Bruchsal, Durlach, Carlsnthe, Ac. from the Baden station,
to Darmstadt and Frankfurt from the Main - Neckar station, adjoining tbe
first-named. Railway to Wurzburg opened as far as Mosbach.

Telegraph Office at the Railway station and in the Ludwigsplatz, No. 10.

Steamboats to Heilbronn (somewhat tedious) in 12 hrs. (down in 6 — 8 hrs.).
By railway to Heilbronn or Stuttgart in 4V« hrs.

Xnglish Choreh near the Badischer Hof.

The traveller whose time is limited should proceed at once from the
station to the Riesenstein, Molkencur, and Castle (1*4 hr.) according to the
following directions: opposite to tbe station the "Pariser Weg" must be
followed for about 240 paces, then the hill to the r. is ascended through the
"Wolfsschlucht" in '/, hr. to the Rondel (crescent), then a new broad car-
riage-road to the 1. leads (in 5 min.) to the Kamel (pulpit), which commands
a magnificent prospect of the town and castle. The quarries are next reached,
and, after avoiding a road to the 1. (which leads to the town), the traveller,
by pursuing the road in a straight direction for about 1 M., will reach the
Molkencur^ and, V, M. farther, the Castle. The descent should be made by
the Burgweg, across the Kornmarkt, through the town past the theatre to
the Anlagcn, and thence to the station. A short street leads from the large
church in the market-place to the bridge (p. 185), which also commands a
deligiitful prospect.

Few towns can vie with Heidelberg in the beauty of its
environs and its richness in historical associations. The
Count Palatine Otto of Wittelsbach (1228 — 53) transferred
the seat of his government and family from Stahleck (p. 102),
near Bacharach, to Heidelberg, which thus became the capital
of the Palatinate, and continued for nearly 5 centuries to be
the seat of the Electors, till Carl Philipp in 1720, on account
of some diflFerences with the Protestant portion of the com-
munity, transferred the seat of government to Mannheim.
Since 1802 Heidelberg has belonged to the Grand-duchy of

HEIDELBERG. 4S. Route. 181

Baden. Its prosperity has of late years been considerably
augmented by the completion of the railway, and the con-
sequent increase in the influx of visitors.

Heidelberg is the key of the mountainous valley of the
Neckar, which below the town widens and is at length united
with the Rhine, but the town itself is limited to the narrow
confines between the river and the castle hill. It consists of
one long street {i^/^ M.), extending from the Manuheimer to
the Carls -Thor, and has a population of 16,288 (% Rom.
Gath.). On the N. side flows the river, and on the S., run-
ning for some distance parallel with the town, is the **An-
lage" a public walk, planted with trees, where of late years
a number of handsome residences have been erected. The
two monuments near the station record the names of the
founders of this walk; in the immediate vicinity is the old
Churchyard of St. Anne, in which the remains of many eminent
men repose.

Near the £. extremity of the Anlage, on the 1., is the
Protestant Church of St, Peter, where Hieronymus of Prague,
the companion of Huss, expounded his doctrines to the people
in 1406. Farther on is the Jesuits' Church, and in the market-
place the Church of the Holy Ghost, erected at the commence-
ment of the 15th cent., under the Count Palatine Rupert; the
choir contains the tombstone of King Rupert, and his queen
Elizabeth, sister of Frederick of ZoUeru, the first Elector
of Brandenburg. Opposite to this church is the inn of the
Ritter St. George, built in 1592, and interesting as being al-
most the only house which remained intact in the devastation
of 1693 (p. 182).

The University (800 students), after that of Prague the
oldest in Germany, the celebrated Ruperto- Carolina, cradle of
the sciences in S. Germany, was founded in 1386 by the
Elector Rupert I. For its present extent and arrangements,
it is indebted to the learned Charles Frederick of Baden, who
in 1802 provided it with eminent professors, as well as
scientific collections and institutions.

The greater number of the lectures are held in the Uni-
versity buildings in the Ludwigsplatz , erected in 1693. The
Library is a separate building, and contains 200,000 vols, and
1800 MSS. It is open daily from 10 to 12, and on Wed. and Sat.
also from 2 to 4 o'clock. The scientific collections, though valuble
to the student, possess little interest for the passing traveller.

The town itself contains little worthy of note, and the
tourist should devote every spare hour to exploring the
*** Castle and its environs. It is situated on a wooded slope
of the Konigsstuhl, 320 ft. above the Neckar, and probably

182 Route 43. HEIDELBERG. Castle.

owes its origin to Ludwig der Strenge (the Severe), son-in-
law of Rudolph of Habsburg, about the close of the 13th cent.
The Ruprechtsbau was erected by the Elector Rupert III., who
in 1400 was elected by the council of electors at Rhense
(p. 92) to be Roman emperor; this fact is indicated by the
imperial eagle placed above the arms of the Palatinate on
this part of the building. The Elector Frederick I., "the
Victorious", the Frederick the Great of his age, enlarged the
building. The Electors of the 16th and 17th centuries, espe-
cially Otto Heinrich (1555—59), Frederick IV. (1583—1610),
and Frederick V. (1610 — 21), king of Bohemia and husband
of Elizabeth, daughter of James I. of England, made splendid
additions to the edifice. It suffered much in the 30 years'
war, but was restored by Carl Ludwig (1650 — 80). It was
this prince, who, when hard pressed during the devastations
of the Palatinate in 1673, wrote to Turenne, saying that such
barbarities could not possibly be perpetrated by the command
of the *^most Christian king," and perhaps arose from some
personal feelings against himself, which he should be most
willing to satisfy by meeting the Marshal in single combat.
The Marshal, however, declined the proffered challenge. In
the Orleans war the French general Melac, contrary to the
stipulation, caused the castle to be blown up in 1689. (Picture
by Dietz in Carlsruhe).

The town und its habitants, however, met with the most
barbarous usage in 1 693 at the hands of the French, to whom,
owing to the treachery or cowardice of the commandant, the
castle and town surrendered after little or no resistance. The
massacre of the inhabitants, and destruction of the castle and
habitations, immediately commenced. After the most savage
and almost incredible barbarities, to which the greater por-
tion of the peaceable inhabitants fell victims, the town w^as
left a heap of smouldering ruins, and the castle entirely dis-
mantled.

After this feat of arms so tarnishing to his fame, the
'^most Christian king" Louis XIV. caused a medal to be
struck, bearing the words: '•^Heidelberga deleta." The Castle
was struck by lightning in 1764, and the scanty remnants left
by the French burned to the ground. The walls alone re-
mained, but so vast is their extent that to this day they
form the most imposing and magnificent ruin in Germany.
The towers, turrets, buttresses, balconies, the lofty gateways
and fine old statues, the courts and grounds, render it the
Alhamhra of the Germans. Nor are the splendour of the
structure and the beauty of its situation its sole attractions;
its ivy -clad ruins are connected with innumerable historical

Cattle, HEIDELBERG. 43. Route, 183

associations of the deepest interest, and the striking contrast
here presented between the eternal rejuvenescence of nature
and the instability of the proudest monuments of human skill,
has called forth many a poetic effusion.

There are several footpaths which lead from the town to
the Castle; the shortest is the Burgweg, leading from the
Kommarkt to the Great Balcony^ an ascent of about 12 min.
A carriage road leads from the Klingelthor, at the E. extrem-
ity of the walk which commences nt the station, to the Castle
in 15 min. By this road the visitor is led first into the gar-
den, and then to the 1. through the Elisabethen-P/orte, erected
by the Elector Frederick V. in honour of his consort Eliza-
beth of England, to the Stuckgarten, the extreme W. point
of the grounds, commanding an extensive view as far as
the Haardt mountains. The ^'dicke Thurm*^ (thick tower), at
the W. corner, was once the festive Hall of Frederick V.,
and statues of him and his broJ^her Lndwig V., are seen
peering forth from ivy-clad niches.

To the r. on entering the Schlosshof (castle yard) is a
fountain with granite columns, which once adorned the Palace
of Charlemagne at Ingelheim (p. 146). To the 1. is the
RuprechtsbaUf with the imperial eagle, and above the en-
trance a wreath of five roses supported by two angels, one
of whom is in the act of putting a pair of. half- opened
compasses into one of the roses — an allegory which has
never been satisfactorily interpreted. The small hall contains
a collection of old armour, bullets &c., found in the castle.
Visitors who wish to gain an idea of the magnitude of the
whole edifice, should explore the extensive, and partly sub-
terraneous passages which connect this point with the ^^Thick
Tower,'' and afterwards inspect the castle chapel and the
cellar. (Fees for conducting visitors over the entire ruin,
including the "Great Tun": for 1 pers. 24, for 2—3 pers. 36,
for every additional pers. 12 kr.)

The *Otto Heinrichsbau (1556) to the E. especially de-
serves a careful inspection. The decorations in the front facing
the court are admirably executed in the purest Italian *^ re-
naissance" style, and are remarkable for the accuracy of their
proportions; the designs are ascribed to Michel Angelo. Over
the door is the bust of the Elector Otto Heinrich, who erected
this part of the castle, as its name implies, and higher up in
twelve niches are statues of mythological characters; over the
windows are medallions of Roman emperors, and in the four
lower niches are placed, somewhat incongruously, statues of
Joshua, Samson, Hercules, and Mars.

The Friedrichsbau (1601) seems by the superfiuity of its

184 Route 43. H£IDELB£RO. Castle.

decorations to strive to excel all the rest of the edifice in
magnificence. The front is embellished by statues of 16 £lec-
tors Palatine, from Otto of Wittelsbach (1184), to Frederick IV.
(1607); above them to the 1. is a statae of Charlemagne. In
the corner, to the 1., is the entrance to the cellar, which con-
tains the celebrated Heidelberg Tun, constructed in 1751,
capable of containing 49,000 gallons. Near it stands a gro-
tesque wooden figure of Perkeo, court-jester of the Elector
Charles Philip, probably placed there to commemorate some
frolic of olden times, and a second large tun bears some
amusing inscriptions.

The • Graimherg Gallery in a suite of rooms on the first
floor of the Friedrichsban (admission 12 kr.; for parties of
6 and upwards 9 kr. each), contains a considerable collection
of portraits of princes, chiefly of the Palatinate, documents,
coins, a cork model of the castle, relics found in the tomb
of the emperor Rupert in the church of the Holy Ghost,
ornaments, ecclesiastical antiquities &c. The gallery, as a
whole, possesses considerable value and historical interest,
though many of the objects are in themselves insignificant

A vaulted passage leads through the Friedrichsban to the
* Grreat Balcony (1610), which commands a beautiful prospect
of the Neckar to the N. Beneath the balcony is a long vaulted
gateway leading to the steps which descend to the footpath
to the town.

The ^^gesprengte Thurm'* (blown -up tower) at the E. ex-
tremity of the castle, in the fosse to the r. of the bridge
leading into the castle-yard, is of so massive a construction
that, when the French attempted to blow it up In 1689, the
only result of the explosion was, that an enormous portion be-
came detached from the rest and fell bodily into the ditch, where
it still remains. The Tower is 82 ft. in diameter, and
the walls are 20 ft. thick; beneath it are long casemate
passages.

The present castle-garden was laid out in 1804, and
abounds with the most delightful walks presenting new and
ever-varying views. One of the finest points is the * Great
Terrace to the N.E., erected in 1615, which commands a fine
prospect of the Castle itself. On the path from the Castle to
the terrace is a wine and coffee- garden, where a band ge-
nerally plays on summer afternoons.

To reach the Molkencur, the traveller must ascend the
steps opposite to the "gesprengte Thurm", and then turn
to the r. among ivy-clad walls; another flight of steps is then
ascended which lead to the broad carriage road, a little below
the Rondel. The Friesenweg, so called on account of an

Molkencur. HEIDELBERG. 43, Route. 185

inscription on the rock in memory of the artist Ernst Fries
of Heidelberg, to the ]. of the Rondel, then leads through an
avenae of chesnuts past the so>called "Oid Castle'* on the
Jettenbuhl, inhabited in the 12th cent, by Conrad of Hohen-
stanfen, the brother of Barbarossa, but completely destfoyed
by lightning in 1537, to the Molkencur (whey -cure), an inn
situated 288 ft. above the Castle, and a very favorite resort
The view is similar to that from the Castle but more ex-
tensive.

The *X5nig«8feulil, also called the Kaiserstuhl in com-
memoration of the visit of the emperor Francis in 1815, is
851 ft. higher than the Castle, and 1752 ft. above the level
of the sea. It is ascended by a very steep flight of steps
from the road, about 1 M. from the Molkencur, but it is also
accessible by a good carriage road in ^/^ hr. The vratch-
tower on the top, 89 ft. in height, commands a most exten-
sive view of the Rhine, Neckar, Odenwald, Haardt mountains,
Taunus, the Black Forest as far as the Mercuriusberg at Baden,
and even the cathedral-spire of Strasburg.

From the Molkencur a broad carriage-road leads to the
W. round the Riesenstein (giant-stone), past some sandstone
quarries, to the so-called *BIanzel (pulpit), 1 M. distant, and,
a few hundred yard« farther, to the *Itondel (crescent), from
both of which, especially the latter, the most extensive prospect
may be enjoyed. From the Rondel a path to the r. descends
throngh the Wolfsschlucht to the station (1 M.). The pe-
destrian may, if he pleases, continue his walk along the brow
of the hill IV4 M. farther to the Neuko/ ('Inn), but the view
remains the same. In this case the road back will bring him
through the wood to the Cemetery (fine view from the front
of the chapel), % M. from the railway station.

To the E. of the Castle a road leads to the WolfiBbranxLeii
(3 M.), once a favorite resort of Frederick V. and his bride
(p. 182). According to an ancient tradition, the beautiful en-
chantress Jetta was here killed by a wolf; hence the name.
The five ponds fed by the spring contain trout, a dish of
which may be had at the inn. The view from this point is
far inferior to those in the more immediate vicinity of the town.

The handsome Brid^ over the Neckar was constructed
by the Elector Carl Theodor in 1788, and is embellished with
statues of the Electors and one of Minerva. In 1799 it was
bravely and successfully defended by the Anstrians against the
attacks of the French.

On the r. bank of the Neckar is the *Philo80plienweg,
a beautiful walk extending for 3 M. along the brow of
the Heiligenberg, chiefly through vineyards , commanding

186 Route U. MANNHEIM.

splendid views of the town, the castle, the valley, the plain
of the Rhine with the cathedral of Speyer and the beaatiful
outlines of the S. Haardt mountains. This path is reached
by taking the first street (Hirschgaaae) which ascends the hill,
about % M. beyond the bridge. The way back leads through
Neuenheim (p. 174); or the walk may be taken in the opposite
direction. At Neuenheim the river is crossed by a ferry (4 kr.);
the swimming-bath is at the landing place on the 1. bank of
the river, and not far from the station.

Excursions (earriaffes and railways p. 180) may also be made to Veokar-
ftrnfind, about 6 M. disUnt, situated on tlie 1. t>ank of the Meckar at the
coufluence of tlie Elaenz. Beyond it, on a wooded eminence to tlie r., rises
tlie Castle of Biltbnrf , in vain besieged by Tiily in the 30 years* war, aud
about the commeiiceroent of the present century employed as a state prison.
The next place of note is the old town of Kaokanttiimeh (* Ecaft) (p. 179),
about 10 M. distant from Heidelberg. It was once the seat of the valiant
race of the Steinachs, which became extinct in 1653. The four old castles
still bear testimony to the power of these iinights. The church contains
iiumerons monuments of members of the family, several of whom bore the
surname of Landsehaden (land - devastation^, perhaps on account of the nu-
merous feuds in which they were engaged. In the SUinbach, which here
unites with the Neckar, pearl-museles of considerable value are occasionally
found.

Excursion to Speyer, Mannheim, and Schwetzingen, see RR. 44 and 48.

44. Mannheim and Schwetzingen.

Hotels. On the Rhine near the steamboat wharf: European Hotel
(R. 1 H., L. 18, B. 30, A. 24 kr.). In the town: *P falser Hof (Hotel of
the Palatinate) similar prices. *Deutscher H o f (German Hold). — * Konig
von Portugal and Schwarser Lowe for travellers of modest pretensions.
Weisses Lamm, inn and beer-house, clean and moderate; Gold en e Gans.

Bettauraata. Stern near the theatre; Cafe Fran^ais; Mohrenkopf.
Roseustock, the two latter generally possess good bills of fare at moderate
■eharges. Drei Glocken, near the Strohmarkt, moderate and respectable
beer-house.

Bailway Station in Mannheim for the Damutadt, Frankfurt and
Heidelberg trains, in Ludwigshafen for those to Mayence, Speyer, N^v-
stadt, &c.

Oonveyanoaa. Omnibus from the Mannheim station to that of Ludwigs-
hafen without luggage 22 kr. , each box (> kr.; cab from station to station
1—2 persons 45 kr., 3 pers. 51 kr., 4 pers. 1 fl. 8 kr.

Btaamboat The wharf is V4 M. distant from the Ludwigshafen, and
iVa M. from the Mannheim station. A straight road leads from the latter to
the wharf past the theatre and the Jesuits' church to the Observatory, aud
then to the 1. through the Palace gardens.

Porterage from station or steamboat to cab or omnibus 3 kr. for e»ch
package.

Xafliah Ohuroh Senrioe during the season.

Mannheim was founded in 1606 by the Elector Frederick
IV. of the Palatinate, but when still in its infancy was de-
stroyed by the French in 1689. For its subsequent importance
it was indebted to the Elector Charles Philip, who on account
of ecclesiastical differences with the townspeople of Heidelberg
transferred his residence to Mannheim in 1721. The siege

SCHWETZINGEN. 44. Route. 187

of 1795 occasioned considerable damage to the town; in 1799
the fortifications were demolished.

Mannheim has a population of 26,914 (V, Prot.)) and is
the most regularly built town in Germany, being divided into
100 square compartments like a chess-board. The streets
have no names, but are designated as Square (Quadrat) A.
B. C. &c., with the exception of the Pianken, a street planted
with trees, which extends from the Rhine to the Heidelberg
gate. The extensive traffic in tobacco, madder, spelt, and fruit,
which is here carried on, has rendered Mannheim, which is
conveniently situated at the confluence of the Neckar and
Rhine, the most important commercial town of the Upper Rhine.
The harbour of the Rhine is connected with that of the Neckar
and with the Baden station by means of rails laid down
through the town.

The spacious Schloss, erected in 1720 — 1729, and partially
destroyed in 1795, contains (in the gateway, to the 1.) a number
of Roman monuments, with remarkable inscriptions, statues,
small £trurian sarcophagi, &c. ; in the first floor of the same
wing is a Picture-yallery , where a few Dutch pictures are to
be seen, together with a considerable collection of engravings
and casts of celebrated antiquities, and a cabinet of natural his-
tory. The Grand-duchess Stephanie (d. 1860), adopted daughter
of Napoleon I. and widow of the Grand -duke Charles (d.
1818), formerly resided in the palace. Mannheim is also the
chief residence of the nobility of the Palatinate.

The Theatre, completely restored in 1854, ranks among
the best in Southern Germany, and is admirably decorated.
Schiller's first pieces, the "Robbers," "Fiesco," "Kabale und
Liebe," were here represented under his own direction. —
Schiller's Monument, in the "Schillerplatz", was erected in
Nov. 1862 by voluntary contributions collected in Mannheim.

Mannheim possesses several handsome modern churches
and other edifices, but offers few objects of attraction to the
passing traveller, who may far more advantageously employ
his time at Speyer with its magnificent cathedral, in the beauti-
ful environs of Heidelberg (see R. 43, railway in y, hr.), or in
the celebrated garden of Schwetzingen.

Train from Ifaunheim to Friedricha/eld , about halfway to Heidelberg,
thence by carriage (one-horse there and baclc 1 fl. 45 kr.) or omnibus (in
summer 4 times a day) to Sohwetsinfen {Erbprinx; Hirsch), The * Gardens,
laid out by the Elector Charles Theodore in the middle of the Idth cent..
cover an area of 112 acres of land, and contain handsome avenues in the old
French style, as well as portions laid out in the fashion of an English park.
The whole may be seen in about 2 hrs. The objects most worthy of note
are as follows, beginning on the 1. (services of a guide quite unnecessary) :
Temple of Minerva, the Mosque (with fine view from the highest minaret,
140 ft., fee 12 kr.), Temple of Mercury; view from the large pond (near the
colossal statues of the "Rhine" and '^Danube") through an opening in the

188 Boute 45, KREUZNACH.

wood of the Haardt Ifts.; Temple of Apollo, Bath-house (fee 12 kr.)t bird
fountain, Roman aqueduct and orangery.

The Schtoss, or palace, built by the Elector Carl Ludwig about the middle
of the 17th cent., contains nothing of interest.

46. The Bavarian -Bhenish Palatinate.

Dotmersberg and Haardt,

The following FUn of taounioii comprises the entire mountainous district
of the Rhenish Palatinate. Travellers whose time is limited should take Uie
railway (p. 224) from Ludwigshafen toSpeyer, where they may inspeet the
cathedral ; thence in 1 hr. to Neuatadt in the centre of the Haardt.

From this point a pleasant excursion may be made by taking the railway
to Frankenstein (V4 hr.), and then proceeding on foot through the Isenach-
thai by the Hartenburg and monastery of Limburg (p. 191) to Diirkheim
(13'/, k.). Or stiil better ~ from NeusUdt with 1-horse carriage (1 fl«) to
Frankenstein in 2'/, hrs. ; inspect the villa, and then drive on to the
Hartenburg in 2 hrs.; on foot to Limburg (3 H.), and 1'/^ 11. farther to
Ourkheim. Those who are already acquainted with 8peyer may prefer to
go direct from Ludwigshafen to Durkheim by omnibus, or l-horse carriage
(3'A fl.) in 2 hrs.

At Durkheim the finest part of the vine-elad Haardt mountain* begins,
to explore which about 3 days are required. 1st day: from Durkheim to
Neustadt^ the Hambacher Schlots, and Edenkoben, 2nd day : along the brow
of the hill to Eschbachy the Madenburg , over the mountain to Tri/els, to
Annweiler and WUlgartswiesen. 3d day: Dahn and environs, through the
Lanterthal to Hinter-Weidenthal and the Kaltebachy where the diligence
which runs between Landau and Zweibrucken stops daily. From Zweibriicken
a branch line Joins the main line between Ludwigshafen and Saarbrncken at
Homburg; thence in 2 hrs. to Nenstadt, in 3 hrs. to Ludwigshafen.

The remaining part of th|s prosperous district, though less celebrated as
a wine-country, is scarcely less beautiful. In order to appreciate it, the
traveller is recommended to commence the tour from Kreuznach; on the lat
day by the Rhelngrafensteio, Ebemburg, through the Alsenzthal to Dielkirchen;
2nd day, over the Donnersberg to GrUmttadt, and thence by carriage to Durk-
heim; on the 3d, 4th and 5th days as above.

The finest wines of the Palatinate are produced at Konigsbach, Rnpperts-
berg, Deidesbeim, Forst, Wachenheim, Durkheim, Uugstein, and Callstadt;
the red wine of the last named place resembles Burgundy. In good years
the Palatinate yields upwards of 20 million gallons of wine. Pedestrians
should observe that the footpaths through the vineyards are closed in Sept.
and Oct.

Maps and views of the Palatinate and of the cathedral of Speyer may
be procured at Gott8Chick-Witter% bookseller at Neustadt.

Kreuanach, the Rhein</rafen8tein and Ebernburg are de-
scribed in R. 29. The path to the Gans and Rheingrafenstein
cannot \vell be missed. It leaves the high road at the Hotel
zum Rheinstein, opposite to ^e bath-island, and ascends in
1 hr. to the Rheingrafensteiner Hof^ then through the grounds
to the Gans, and in Vj hr. more to the Rheingrafenstein; the
latter part of the path is however somewhat difficult to find
without a guide. From the Rheingrafenstein y^ hour's walk
brings the pedestrian to the foot of the porphyry rock, op-
posite to which lies the village of Milnster am Stein (R. 29).

The river NaJie is here the boundary between Prussia and
Bavaria. On an eminence on the r. bauk lies the Ebemburg
(*Inn), The road now ascends the Alsenzthal in S. direction.

DIELKIRCUEN. 45. Route. 189

•
passing Altenbamberg (with old castle on the heights, destroyed

by the French in 1669) to Alsenz {Post) (7% M.). Farther

on in the picturesque and populous valley, near Manntceiler,

are the ruins of the castle of Randeck, situated on a wooded

eminence. The next village is Koln,

Dielkirchen {* Hosier), 6 M. from Alsenz, is a good halt-
ing place for the night, the inn being good and moderate,
unless the traveller should feel disposed to proceed to Dannen-
feis, 10 M. farther. The road continues in the Alsenzthal for
V/2 ^- more, and as it approaches Rockenhausen {*Po8t\
diverges to the 1. to Marienthal (3% M.). The footpath lead-
ing from Dielkirchen to the Marienthal is not difficult to find
and saves about ly, M. Guide from Dielkirchen over the
Donnersberg to Dannenfels (36 — 48 kr.) not absolutely ne-
cessary.

Marienthal possesses a fine Gothic church of 1478,
which has lately been restored in the old style; it contains
several good monuments of the counts of Grafenstein. At the
Bastenhaus, ^f^ M. from Marienthal, the pedestrian must
leave the road and follow the track which ascends to the r.,
along the course of the Appelback. Where the path divides
that to the 1. must be taken which leads out of the wood.
Although the flat summit of the Donnersberg now lies before
the traveller, he must still bear to the 1., as the way to the
top is somewhat circuitous. The inns at Marienthal and the
Bastenhaus are tolerable.

The * Donnersberg (2126 ft.), dedicated in ancient times
to the god ThoTj was called by the Romans J/ons JovtH,
The upper part of it consists principally of red porphyry.
From a great distance the mountain may be easily recognized
by its shape, being an extensive table-land, bounded by pre-
cipitous slopes, and entirely clothed with luxuriant beech-
wood.

A large farmhouse, the Donnersberg er Ho/\ erected on the
ruins of an old monastery, formerly occupied the summit, but
it was removed in 1854 by the Bavarian government, and the
site planted with wood. Ten minutes* walk from the spot
where the building stood is the Hirtenfels, a shady seat among
the rocks on the E. side of the table-land, commanding a most
beautiful view of the course of the Rhine upwards nearly to
Speyer, of the Haardt mountains to the S., and the Odenwald
(Melibocus) and the Taunus (Feldberg, Altkonig) to the E.
The view from the Konigsstuhl, a porphyry rock farther to
the W., on which the Franconian kings and the counts of the
Wormsgau are said to have held their tribunals, is less attrac-
tive, and only extends over the wooded hills.

190 Route 45. DtJRKHEIM. Rkenish' Palatinate.

The path which descends on the £. side is shaded by beau-
tiful beech, ash, and maple trees, and leads in about y^ hr.
to the Tillage of Dannenfels {"Gumhet)^ a romantic spot in a
grove of remarkably fine chesnut trees. The road, now des-
titute of shade, leads across an undulating plain to Benn-
kausen (2 V4 M.), Wettermceiler (1 % M.), and Dreysen (1 1/4 M.),
where the ^^Kaiaeretrasae" constructed by Napoleon, is crossed.
GhOllheixu (Hirach), 1% M. farther, is a small town of con-
siderable antiquity, at the entrance of which is situated a hand-
some new chapel, designed by Voit of Munich; near it is an
ancient elm, under which stands the Konigakreuz, a crucifix
much injured by the French republicans in 1794. On the r.
side is the inscription:

^'Anno milieno trecentia bia minua annia
In Julio menae rex Adolphua cadit enae"
to which is added by way of postscript, that the monument
was renewed by Count Ludwig of Nassau in 1611. The old
inscription on the E. side is almost illegible.

Under this tree, on July 2nd, 1298, the emperor Adolph
of Nassau (p. 201) expired amid the noise and turmoil of
battle, pierced by the sword of his antagonist Albert of
Austria. The contest, which had commenced at the Haaebuhl,
ly^ M. to the S., was terminated on this spot by the death
of the emperor. The cross and the wall into which it is
built, were shortly afterwards erected by a member of the
imperial family.

Durkheim is about 15 M. distant firom Gollheim by the
road through Grunstadt, and 12 M. by the footpath by Elaen-
berg and Leiningen. The intervening district is undulating
and fertile but uninteresting. The traveller who starts from
Dielkirchen early in the morning, crossing the Donnersberg,
and reaching Grunstadt on foot (as no carriages are to be
had at Gollheim), must either pass the night there, and pro-
ceed by omnibus on the following morning, or take a carriage
the same evening to Durkheim (one-horse 2 fi.)

Ghrtlnfrtadt {Jacobahut; diligence 24 kr., in the morning,
and omnibus to Durkheim; 1-horse carriage 2 fl.) was till the
time of the first French revolution the residence of the counts
of Leiningen. Their castles of Alt- and Neu -Leiningen ^ the
ruins of which are seen on a hill at some distance, were
destroyed in 1690. The Obere and Untere Hof^ the residences
of the counts in Grunstadt, are now employed for industrial
and educational purposes. The road, which lies very high,
next traverses a succession of extensive vineyards. Herxheim^
Callatadt^ and Ungatein are noted for their wines.

Ddrklieiin (^ Hotel ReitSy at the £. side of the town, E.

Rhenish-Palatinate, LIMBURG. 45. Route. 191

1 fl., B. 20 kr., D. 1 fl.; * Vier Jahreszeiten) , with a pop. of
7000, was almost entirely rebuilt after the destruction of the
castle of the counts of Leiningen by the Elector Palatine
Frederick in 1471, and again after the French devastation of
1689. During the subsequent century it was the prosperous
and animated residence of the princes of Leiningen -Harten-
burg, till their castle was burned down by the French in 1794,
Its site is now occupied by the Town-hall. Durkheim is one
of the most important places in the Palatinate, and is beauti-
fully situated amidst the vineyards of the Haardt mountains.
The grape-cure and the neighbouring saline baths of Philipps-
halle attract numerous visitors in autumn. Ludwigshafen
(p, 224) is 12 M. distant, Neustadt 9 M., Grunstadt ly^ M.,
Kaiserslautern (p. 196) 21 M. Omnibuses run daily in all
directions; to Neustadt five times a day in 2 hrs. , fare
3o kr. One-horse carriage to Neustadt 3 fl.; diligence twice
daily, 24 kr.

On a precipitous height at the entrance of the Isenachthal^
IYj M. to the W. of Durkheim, are situated the stately ruins
of the ancient Benedictine monastery of *Lim1>urg, a pala-
tial building, ornamented with a handsome piazza, belonging
to the 11th cent. It is one of the principal objects of attrac-
tion in the environs of Durkheim, and is frequently visited
from Mannheim. It was once the castle of the Salic count
Conrad the Elder, who was elected king of Germany in 1024
as Conrad II. His eldest son Conrad having lost his life
while hunting, the king resolved to convert his castle into a
place of worship, an act of devotion which he believed would
be favourable to the repose of his son's soul. He accordingly
laid the foundation-stone of the church in presence of his
Queen Gisela, July 12th, 1030, at 4 o'clock in the morning,
as the old chronicles tell us, and, at a later hour on the same
day, the foundation-atone of the cathedral of Speyer. Twelve
years later the edifice was completed and placed in the
hands of the Benedictines. The abbots chose the Hartenburg
counts of Leiningen for their protectors, but subsequent quar-
rels induced Count Emich VIII. to take possession of and
destroy the abbey in 1504. It was partially restored in
1515 — 1554, but was finally secularized by the Elector Pala-
tine Frederick III. in 1574, and since then has gradually
fallen to decay.

The ruin now belongs to the town of Durkheim, and is
surrounded by public walks and grounds (refreshments to be
procured at the top). The S. W. tower, which belongs to the
13th and 14th centuries, commands a fine view; a portion of
the cloisters of the same date and the vaults on the £. side

192 Route 46. DEIDESHEIM. Rhenish- Palatinate.

are still well preserved. In three different directions delight-
ful prospects are obtained, especially that to the E. over the
vast Palatinate, extending like a garden beyond the mountains
of the Odenwald. To the N. W. the view is bounded by the
red ruins of the Hartenburg {* Hirsch\ a castle founded by
the counts of Leiningen about the year 1200, completed in
1510 and destroyed in 1794. Its extensive vaults and huge
dismantled towers resemble those of the castle of Heidelberg.
A large grass -plat (gymnastic ground) on the £. side of the
castle, surrounded with handsome lime-trees, commands a fine
view of the valley.

To the N. £. of Limburg is situated the Kastanlenberg, on
the wooded slopes of which a part of the Heidenmauer may
be seen; above it rises the Teufeisstein, a mass of rock, 12 ft.
in height, which possibly once served as an altar. The Heiden-
mauer (heathens' wall) is a stone wall, 8 — 12 ft. in height,
constructed of loose stones heaped together, and enclosing a
space on the summit of the Kastanienberg of 60 — 100 ft. in
diameter. The novelist Cooper derived the materials for his
tale "The Heidenmauer" from this locality. The wall, like
that on the Altkonig (p. 169), is incontestibly of ancient
Germanic origin. The Peterskopf (1530 ft.), 2% M. to the
N. W. of the Teufelsstein , commands an extensive and beau-
tiful view.

On the verge of the W. mountain-basin, a path leads by '
the village of Seebaeh ( 1 Vj M. ) , with an ancient convent
and well preserved church of the 12th cent., through vineyards
(closed in Sept. and Oct.) to Wachenheizn {Krone), 2^^ M.
farther. By the high road from Diirkheim to Wachenheim the
distance is not above ly, M.

On the W. side of Wachenheim lie the ruins of the IVacIUen-
or Geiersburgy once the property of the Salic dukes, afterwards
of the Counts Palatine, destroyed in 1689. On the S. side
are situated handsome villas and well-kept grounds, belonging
to the wealthy wine-merchan,ts of the district. The next
village on the road is Forst (% M.), and IYj M. farther
Deidesheixn {* BairUcher Hqf), both celebrated for their
wine; the rich wine-merchants constitute the sole aristocracv
of the country.

Pedestrians should leave the high road a little to the S.
of Deidesheim, and turn to the r. through vineyards, skirting
the brow of the hill, to Konigsbach (2 M.), and, y^ M. beyond
it, Gimmeldingen; about 2 M. farther the castle of Winzingen
is reached, the ruins of which are covered with iTy, and sur-
rounded by private pleasure-grounds (not open to the public).
Near it are the * Wol/*8che Anlagen, behind the village of

Rhenish-Palatinate. MADENBURG. 45, Route. 193

Haardt) near the church, which are always accessible to
visitors. From the highest part of the grounds near the
Hermitage a fine view is obtained over the entire plain of
the Khine; Speyer, Mannheim, and even the red sandstone
arches of the castle of Heidelberg may be distinguished. At
the foot of the hill lies Neustadt, 1% H. distant. Neu-
stadty Maxhurg, Edenkoben, Landau, see R. 55. The Maxburg
lies 3 M. to the S. W. of Neustadt. From the Maxburg a
steep path leads to Mittel-Hambach at the foot of the hill,
from which the road leads through the plain to XSdenkoben
(3 M.).

The pedestrian should now proceed along the slopes of
the wooded and vine-clad mountains to the l«rge and wealthy
village of Khodt (IV2 M.), on an eminence near which are
situated the ruins of Rietburg or Rippburg, At the foot of
the hill is the Ludwigehohe^ a handsome villa, erected by king
Ludwig I. of Bavaria, commanding a noble prospect, but the
interior is destitute of artistic decoration. About 6 M. to the
W. is situated the ^^Schdnzel" on the Steigerkopf (1919 ft.), an
importMit military point, bravely and successfully defended
against the French by the Prussian general von Pfau, to whose
memory a monument has been erected on the spot.

The road next leads through the villages of Weiher (ly,
M.) and Burweiler {iYi ^O? sibove the latter lies the pictu-
resque, white Anna-Capelle; % M. farther is Gleiaweiler
(1000 ft.), sheltered from the N. and W. winds, at the foot
of the Teirfelsberg (2500 ft.) ; it possesses an extensive Hydro-
pathic Estab., containing likewise grape, whey, and (strange
to English ears) cowhouse-air cures (also an hotel); weekly
charges, incl. medical attendance, ITy, — 28 fl.; pleasant ex-
cursion to Scharfeneck, a ruin 4 y^ M. to the S.W. — Frank-
weiler (^Sckwan) (ly, M.) and Siebeldingen (V/z ^') &re
the next villages. The Queich (p. 223) is now crossed. The
mountains on the r. bank of the Queich are considered to
belong to the Vosgea, of which the Haardt constitutes the N.
spurs.

After passing Ilbesheim {2^^ M.), with the ruined castle of
Neucastel, the road leads to Eachbach (Engel), a village at
the foot of the Madenburg (to visit which the traveller should
engage the services of a guide), and thence to Trifels.

The * Madenburg, lys M. to the S.W. of Eschbach, is
the grandest and most extensive ruin in the Rhenish Palatinate.
The castle formerly belonged to the counts of Leiningen,
afterwards to the archbishopric of Speyer, and was burned
down by the French general Montclar in 1680. It commands
a noble prospect — the finest in the whole Palatinate — com-

Babdbkbb's Rhine. 13

194 Route 45. ANNWEILER.

prising the plain of the Rhine from Strasburg to the Meli-
boca», and in the distance the heights of the Odenwald and
Black Forest The cathedral spire of Strasburg, the towers
of Carlsruhe, Speyer, Mannheim, and Worms, are all visible
to the naked eye. But what lends a peculiar charm to the
scene is the view of the adjacent chain of the Vosgcs, with
its numerous volcanic and forest-clad peaks, from many of
which bare masses of variegated sandstone rise in grotesque
forms, often resembling old ruined castles.

A walk of 4^/2 M. in a N.W. direction along the high
mountain slopes, through fragrant pine, iir and beech woods,
will now bring the pedestrian to the ruins of the Cnstle of
*Trifel8 (1422 ft.), where Richard Coeur de Lion was con-
iined for more than a year by the Emperor Henry VI., until
his liberation was effected by the instrumentality of the faith-
ful Blondel. Trifels was not unfrequently occupied by the
German emperors ; its walls protected the unhappy Henry FV.,
when he was excommunicated by the Pope in 1076, deserted
by his nobles and pursued by the unnatural hostility of his
own son. The castle also served as a prison for Adalbert,
archbishop of Mayence, who was closely confined here by
Henry V., but released by the citizens of Mayence, as the
inscription on the bra««s gates of the Cathedral records. Here
too were frequently kept the imperial insignia and treasures.
After the SO Years* war the castle fell gradually into decay,
so that at the present day nothing is left but the tower (SO
ft) and fragments of the walls. The view resembles^ that
from the Madenbnrg, but is less extensive. On a mountain
of the same height as that on which Trifels stands, rises the
Mtinz, a square tower (70 ft), the ascent to which is made
in 1 hr. from Annweiler, a village at the foot of the hill on
the N.W. side. — A still finer prospect is obtained from the
tower on the Rehherg^ 3 M. distant from Annweiler.

Annweiler {Trifels \ Rother Ochse; Post; good beer at the
Bairischer Hof) is a small town, possessing a handsome modern
Town-hail, designed by Professor Voit of Munich, but contains
no objects of interest to the traveller (Omnibus twice daily
to Landau, p. 223). From this point the road ascends the
beautiful • Annweiler Thai, a narrow dale enclosed by wooded
slopes and mountain peaks from which grotesque masses of
variegated sandstone project, giving a most picturesque ap-
pearance to the valley.

The finest portion of the valley is comprised between
Annweiler and Willgartswiesen (*Lafnm), a distance of
6 M. The grandest and most remarkable broken masses of
coloured sandstone, rising from the woods and bushes, are

BERGZABERN. 46, Route. 195

those in the vicinity of Dahn {PfaU), which, with the assistance
of a guide, may be reached in 2 hrs. from Willgartswiesen.
Before entering the village the extensive ruins of the old castle
of Dahn are seen situated on a wooded sandstone rock, which,
as well as the castle itself, is so overgrown with underwood
that it is difficult to distinguish the one from the other. The
steps and passages are partly cut out of the solid rock.
The highest point affords a good survey of the surrounding
mountains, and is worth a visit, as the ascent does not occupy
more than 20 min.

In the immediate vicinity of Dahn is the Jungfernsprung
(virgin's leap), a rock of considerable height, overhanging the
road to Kaltebach, with which various traditions are connected.
About 3% M. farther in the valley of the Lauter, where similar
rocky formations are frequently met with, lies Kaltebach, a
post-station on the high road between Landau and Zweibrucken.
Beyond this point the country offers few objects of attraction
to the traveller. He may now return to the Rhine by the
Zweibrucken xliligence or by the omnibus.

Another circuit may be made by again turning E. from
Dahn, following the high road by Busenberg^ Erlenbach with the
castle of Barbelsteiriy and Birkenhordt^ to Bergzabem {Huber),
a small old-fashioned town, 12 M. from Dahn, from which an
omnibus runs to the railway stat. Winden, ^% M. distant.

Instead of descending from the hill at Gieisweiler, the traveller
may, if he prefer it, proceed along the heights, which offer a
succ^sion of fine yiews, to Albersweiler and Annweiler (12 M.);
here he may take a carriage to Dakn, return in the evening
to Annweiler, and proceed the next day to Trifels, Maden-
burg and the railway stat. Landau.

46. From Mannheim to SaarbrUcken.

Ludwig^shafen-Bexbaoh and Fnusian Saarbrlicken line.

To Neustadt in 1, Kaiserslautern in 2, Homburg in 3, and Saarbriicktu
in 4 brs. Fares 6 11, 7, 3 11. 48, and 2 11. 35 lir. The station at Ladwigs-
hafen, opposite to Mannheim, is V4 M. distant from the Rbine bridge,
and 2V4 If. from the Mannheim station. Carriage from one station to the
other, 1—2 pers. 45 kr., 3 pers. 1 11., 4 pers. 1 fl. 12 kr.; omnibus 22 kr.,
to Mannheim 16 kr.

During 1 hr. the train traverses fields of com and tohacco.
Stations Afutterstadt, Sckifferstadi^ junction of the branch line
to Speyer (p. 200), which may be reached in 15 min.; Bohl^
from which a view of the distant Donnersberg may be
obtained; Hassloch, a large, flourishing village with 5000 in-
habitants. As the Haardt mountaim are approached, the Max-
burg (p. 223), on an eminence to the 1., comes in view, to

13*

196 Route 46. KAISERSLAUTERN. From Mannheim

the r. the ruin of Winzingen, and beyond it, farther to
the r., the extensive vineyards of Konigsbach, Ruppertshergj
Musbach, and on the mountain-side the long village of Haardt
(p. 193).

At Neustadt is the junction of the Maximilian, Ludwig,
and Bexbach lines, see p. 224. The latter now enters the
mountain district of Westrich. For an hoar the train winds
through the narrow, well-wooded, and picturesque valley of
the S^eyerbaehf the variegated sandstone rocks of which are
penetrated by 12 tunnels. Beyond Neustadt, on an eminence
to the r., are situated the red ruins of Wol/sburg, below
which stands a castellated cloth-factory. The next station is
Sf, Lambrecht-Grevenhausen (•Weber), the numerous cloth-
factories of which owe their origin to French emigrants. On
a neighbouring height are the ruins of Neidenfeis. At the
following Stat Frankenstein (* Krone; ^Hirsch), the valley is
remarkably wild and picturesque; to the r. is the rock called
the Teufelsleiter (devil's ladder). In a secluded valley diverging
to the r. lies the ruin of Diemerstein, now converted into private
pleasure-grounds. (From Frankenstein to Durkheim see p. 188.)
The station of Hochapeifer, the highest on the line, lies nearly
100 ft. higher than Neustadt. The last tunnel is about
1400 yds. in length.

Kaiaerslautem {*Schwan) is one of the most important
places in the Palatinate, and is situated in the hilly tract of
Westrich. It was once a residence of the Emperor Frederick
Barbarossa, who erected a magnificent palace here in 1153,
the site of which is now occupied by a house of correction.
His memory is still greatly revered in Kaiserslautem, as he
presented a wood to the town, which produces an annual
revenue of 30,000 fl. The Protestant church also owes its
foundation the same monarch. The churchyard contains a
monument to the memory of soldiers of Napoleon who were
natives of the place. Here the Prussian troops under the Duke
of Brunswick, after their return from Champagne, repulsed
the French under Pichegru and Hoche in Nov., 1793. [Diligence
to Kreuznach through the Alsenzthal (p. 189) in 8 hrs.]

The tract of country between Kaiserslautem and Homburg
is remarkably flat. The line (together with the Kaiserstrasse,
p. 146) skirts the turf-moor and the foot of the hills.

Ij an cUituhl {Engel; Krone) was once the seat of the
Sickingen family, whose strong castle, with its massive walls,
24 ft. in thickness, now lies in ruins above the town. Franz
von Sickingen was besieged in this stronghold by the electors
of the Palatinate and of Treves, and lost his life by tiie
falling of a beam. His bones lie in a vault under the church.

to Saarhrucken, NEUNKIRCHEN. 46. Route, 197

The monument erected to his memory -was destroyed by the

French, bat portions of it are still to be seen at the church.

The large Rom. Cath. Orphan Asylum is a modern building.

The next station of importance is Homburg^ {CarUberg;

Poaf), among the buildings of which the handsome Rom. Cath.

church is a conspicuous object. The castle of CarUberg,

1 Vj M. to the E. of the town, was built by Duke Charles II. of

the Palatinate in 1780, and destroyed by the French in 1793.
Branch liiierSS min.; fares 30, 18, 12 kr.) to Zweibrtteken (Pfdher
Hof; Zweibrucker Hof; Lamm)^ formerly the principal residence of the
Dukes of the Zweibracken-Palatinate, and known in the literary world as
the place where the Editiones BipontinoB of Latin and Greek authors were
published. When Charles X. (Gustavus) of the house of Zweibrncken ascended
the Swedish throne, the Duchy became subject to Sweden, which it continued
to be till the death of Charles XII. in 1719. Stanislaus Lesczinsky, the
fugitive king of Poland, resided here fer some time, and to him belonged
the neighbouring grounds of Tschifliky on the road to Pirmasenz, now quite
fallen to decay.

Beyond Bexbach the line enters a rich mining and coal-
district in the Prussian dominions. The foundry of the brothers
Stumm at Neunkirchen {Jochum, near the bridge) employs
about 800 hands, and yields 5000 tons of iron-wares annually.
At Neunkirchen is the junction of the Rhein-Nahe and Saar-
hrucken lines.

Beyond Neunkirchen the train passes through the Bildsiock

tunnel (500 yds.). The numerous cuttings which have been

made in this vicinity, expose to view the strata of coal, with

intervening layers of slate and sandstone, containing many

remarkable fossils (sigillaria), which are rarely met with in

such abundance. In many of the cuttings from 40 to 50 fossil

trunks of trees of various diameters have been found. Some

of the coal-mines are situated on the main line, others are

connected with it by branch railways. They all belong to the

Prussian government, at whose expense they are worked.

The number of hands employed is about 13,000, and the yield

upwards of 2 million tons of coals annually, worth 800,000/.

These mines form the entire source of the industry of the

district. Glass-houses, sal-ammoniac, Prussian-blue, and other

manufactories abound.

Between the stations oi Sulzbach tind Duttweiter, in the wood 'AM. to
the 1. of the line, is situated the "breaneade Bery'' or burning mountain,
a coal-bed which ignited spontaneously about 160 years ago. A slow com-
bustion is still taking place, and the whole bed, 400 by 40 yds., is gradually
sinking. Smoke may be seen, especially after rain, issuing from the fissures,
in which eggs are sometimes cooked by visitors.

SfMrbxilckeii (*Zix) on the Soar, which here becomes
navigable, is a Prussian town on the French frontier, connected
by a bridge with the suburb of St. Johann. The palace was
up to 1793 occupied by the princes of Nassau-Saarbrucken ;
the palace-church contains monuments of the family.

198 Route 47. WORMS.

At Amual iD the immediate neighbourhood is a * Church
built in the best Gothic style, containing a remarkably fine font,
pulpit, and interesting old monuments of the above mentioned
prinoely family, whose vaults were formerly at Amual.

From Saarbriicken to Metz by railway in 2^/^, to Paris
in 12 hrs.

47. Worms.

Worms {* Alter Kaiser, or Old Emperor, near the cathedral,
R. 42, A. 18 kr.; Rhenish Hotel, at the steamboat wharf, VaM.
from the town; Lieb/ravenberg), one of the most ancient towns
in Germany, is sitoated % M. from the Rhine to which its
walls formerly extended, and is rendered worthy of a visit
by its Cathedral, the baptistery of which contains some good
statues. The Burgundian conquerors of the Rhineland (431),
the Franconian kings, and afterwards Charlemagne and his
successors, frequently resided at Worms. Here the war against
the Saxons was brought to a close in 772; here the May
assembly was often held, and the great contest concerning the
investiture of the bishops with ring and staff was here termin-
ated by the Concordat between the emperor Henry V. and
Pope Calixtus II. Many other historical events of interest
are also connected with this venerable city.

As early as 1255, Worms belonged to the Confederation
of the Rhenish towns, and in the time of Frederick Barbarossa
contained a pop. of 70,000 souls ; at the commencement of the
30 Years^ war this number was reduced to 40,000, and at the
present period to 10,726 {y^ Prot.). All the suburbs were
levelled in 1632 by order of the Swedish Colonel Haubold,
and in 1689 the town suffered the most cruel devastation at
the hands of Melac and the young Due de Crequi. A pro-
clamation had been issued that on a certain day the whole
town, with the exception of the cathedral, should be committed
to the flames. The dismayed inhabitants accordingly sought
an asylum in the sacred edifice with their most valuable
property, which thus became an easy prey to the enemy. On
May 31st, 1689, the town was set on fire, and, with the
exception of the cathedral and synagogue, soon became one
smouldering heap of ruins. Traces of the fire may still be
observed on the cathedral walls.

The * Dom, or GoUhedral, was consecrated in 1016 in presence
of the emperor Henry II., but underwent extensive alterations
towards the close of the 12th cent. The whole structure,
with its four slender towers, two cupolas and choir, is, more
particularly in its exterior, one of the finest Romanesque

WORMS. 47. Route. 199

churches in existence. Qaaint figures of animals and masks
are visible upon the towers, of which the N.W. was erected
by Bishop Beinhardt in 1472, to replace the old one, which
had fallen in. To the same date belongs the S. pointed arched
*Fori<il, in the pediment of which may be seen the figure of
a woman adorned with a mural crown and mounted on a
animal, whose four different heads (angel, lion, ox, and eagle)
are symbolical of the four Evangelists. The whole is evidently
emblematical of the victorious Church, and has no reference,
as some suppose, to the frightful execution of the tyrannical
Brunhilde, consort of the Austrasian king Siegbert, which
took place here in 613, under the direction of Clotaire II.
of Soissons.

The interior of the cathedral is destitute of ornament, but
the very ancient Sculpture, representing Daniel in the lions*
den, in the first S. chapel on the r., together with the Tombstone
of the three Franconian princesees, belonging to the 13th cent.,
and removed from the Nunnery to its present position in the
N. aisle, may afford some interest to the visitor.

The Baptistery f tq the 1. of the S. Portal, contains some
large *Seulptures, admirably executed, most perfect in detail,
and in excellent preservation. They formerly belonged to the
cloisters constructed in the 15th cent., but on the demolition
of the latter in 1813, they where removed to their present
position; they represent the Annunciation, Descent from the
Cross, Resurrection, Nativity and Genealogy of Christ. Beyond
them is the Tombstone of the knight Kberhard von Heppen-
heim, a well-executed figure in armour kneeling before a
crucifix. The font formerly belonged to the ancient chapel
of St. John, which was taken down in 1807. The paintings
in the old Byzantine style of the two patron saints of the
Church, St. Peter nnd St. Paul, and of other saints, alone escaped
the French conflagration. The objects in this chapel deserve
the minutest examination, and may be seen on application to
the sexton (fee 18 kr.) who lives in the square, a few hundred
yards from the S. portal of the church.

It may perhaps interest those who are versed in German
legendary lore to know that the open space in front of the
eathedral was the scene of the quarrel between Brunhilde
and ^Chrimhilde, as recorded by the Nibelungenlied in the
i4th Adventure.

The handsome sub-structure of red sandstone on the N.
side of the cathedral was formerly the episcopal residence,
rebuilt in 1727, after having been destroyed by the French in
1689, and again despoiled by the republicans in 1794. It was
here that the diet of April, 1521, was held, in which Luther

200 Route 47. WORMS.

defended his doctrines in presence of Charles V., six electors,
and a numerous assembly. Here too a last and ineffectual
attempt at a reconciliation between the Protestants and the
Rom. Catholics was made by order of the emperor Ferdinand,
the Protestant cause being defended by Melancthon and the
Rom. Catholic by the Dean Jacob von Eltz.

The Synagogue near the Mainzer Thor is an object of
interest to antiquarians, though externally of unimposing
appearance. The Jewish community of Worms is one of the
oldest in Germany, and is said to have existed as early as
588 B. C, at the time of the first destruction of the Temple
by the Babylonians.

HeiVs Garden is worth a visit on account of the magpiificent
palms and rare plants which the hot-houses contain.

In the Mainzer suburb, destroyed by the Swedes and the
French, the *Iiieb£rauexikirche, or Church of our Lady,
y^ M. from the cathedral, alone escaped. The broad path
to the r. which leads to it, diverges from the high-road
about 100 yards from the Mainzer Thor, and passes the old
churchyard, bounded on the S. by fragmcRte of walls connected
with the old church. The church was erected at the close of
the 15th cent, to replace an older edifice which occupied the
same site; the key-stone of the vaulted roof bears the arms
of the different corporations of Worms who caused it to be
built. The only object of interest which the interior contains
is a curious old piece of painted sculpture in the N. aisle.
The Portal is decorated with well-executed statues, representing
the wise and foolish virgins, the death of the Virgin and her
coronation by the Saviour. Service on Saturdays and those
days which are dedicated to the Virgin.

The well-known second-class wine called LiebfrauenmUeh is
yielded by vineyards in the immediate vicinity of the church.
Near the old watch-tower Luginsland, and at the Gatetloch on
the S. side of the town, a wine scarcely inferior to the above
is produced.

In former times the Rhine flowed round a meadow known
to this day by the name of the Rosengarten, on the r. bank
of the river, opposite to Worms. With it are connected many
ancient German traditions, preserved in the poetry of Siegfried
and the Nibelungen, to appreciate which, however, a thoroagh
acquaintance with the old German language and literature is
requisite.

48. Speyer.

Speyer (* WitteUbacher Hof; Rheinitcher Hof; *Bregenzer*s
Restaurant near the cathedral), the principal town of the

SPEYER. 48, Route. 201

Bavarian Palatinate, seat of Government and a bishopric, " city
of the dead emperors," has a pop, of 11,000 (% Prot). It
was known to the Romans as Noviomagua, Neomagus, NemettBj
or Augusta Nemetum, and as, by the partition of Verdun (843),
it became with Worms and Mayence a portion of Germany,
it has frequently been the residence of German monarchs. It
especially rose to importance under the Salic kings, who
resided at their palace of Limbnrg near Durkheim (p. 191), 18 M.
from Speyer.

The **Catheclial (open till 11 a.m., and from 2 to 6 p.m.)
was founded in 1030 by Conrad II. as a burial place for him-
self and his successors, and completed by his son Henry III.,
and grandson Henry IV. (1061), all of whom found their last
resting-place within its precincts. The remains of Henry IV.,
however, who had been excommunicated by Pope Gregory,
were not conveyed here till 5 years after his death, during
which period his body remained unburied in the Chapel of
St. Afra, on the N. side of the cathedral, which he himself
had erected. His son Henry V., the last of the Salic imperial
family, is also interred in the cathedral, as well as Philip
of Swabia, Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and
Albert I. of Austria, by whose hand Adolph fell at G511heim
^p. 190). After the marder of Albert I., the Emperor Henry VII.
caused the remains of the two rival monarchs to be deposited
side by side in the same vault. Here too lie the remains of
Gisela, the pious consort of Conrad II., Bertha, the queen of
Henry IV., and Beatrice, the wife of Barbarossa, with her
daughter Agnes. The cathedral was in 1146 the scene of the
zealous and fiery preaching of St. Bemhard, whose fervency in
the cause of the Cross induced Conrad III. to join the crusades.

The cathedral suffered much by a great conflagration in
1450, but was soon restored. On May 3l8t, 1689, the sacred
edifice was laid waste by the fire and sword of the French
soldiery, who in their eagerness for spoil did not even respect
the resting-places of the dead. The tombs of the emperors
were broken open and ransacked, the finest towers in the
town were blown up, the inhabitants driven out, and the town
itself, after having been fiUed with combustibles, committed
to the flames and completely destroyed, whilst the most fright-
ful atrocities were practised by the hirelings of the "most
christian" Louis XIV. The demolition of the imperial monu-
ments was again repeated in 1693 by the order of the French
intendant Henz, and by a singular coincidence, exactly 100 years
later, on the same anniversary, the despoliation of the tombs
of the French kings at St. Denis was perpetrated under the
direction of one Hentz, a representative of the people, and the

202 Route 48.

SPEYER.

Cathedral.

ashes of Louis XIV., the devastator of the Palatinate, were
the first to suffer what appeared to be a righteous retribution.
In the following year (1794, Jan. 10th - 20th) the cathedral
was subjected to a new devastation. Everything of a combustible
aature, crosses, altars, prayer-books &c. were burned in a heap

in front of the sacred edifice,
while the republicans danced
demoniacally round the pile.
The church was further de-
secrated by being converted
into a magazine, and was
actually, at the close of the
last century, on the point
of being put up to public
auction at a valuation of
8000 fr., a degrading fate
it was happily spared. Na-
poleon ordered it in 1806
to be rededicated to public
worship, but in the absence
of funds it still continued
to be used as a store-house.
In 1822 it was completejy
restored by the assistance
of the king Maximilian, and
again devoted to its sacred
purposes.

The crypt, under the
transept and choir, is in all
respects the same as it was
in 1039; the choir, with
the two £. towers, belongs
probably to a date sub-
sequent to 1068, while the
upper parts of the church
are believed to have been
erected after a fire in 1159.
The whole edifice is a grand
and massive, but simple
specimen of (he Romanesque
style.

The Front of the cathedral was newly constructed from
the designs of the enkinent architect Hubsch of Carlsruhe in
1854—58, as well as the W. spire (225 ft.) and the Kaiser-
Halle (Imperial Hall). The large circular .window in front has
a head of the Saviour crowned with thorns in the centre on

Cathedral, SPEYER. 45. Route. 203

« gold ground, and in the corners the emblematic figures of
the four Evangelists, an angel (Matthew) , winged lion (Mark),
ox (Luke), and eagle (John). Over the principal gate is the
imperial double eagle, and over the side entrances the lion of
the Palatinate. In the entrance (Imperial) hall under the
W. towers, in niches of gold mosaic, were placed in 1858
statues of the emperors interred in the Kings' choir; on the
r. Conrad II., Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and
Albert of Austria; on the 1. Henry III., Henry IV. (in the
robes of a penitent), Henry V., and Philip of Swabia. The
four reliefs are by Piiz: Conrad laying the foundation-stone of
the cathedral; Rudolph and the priest with the host; Rudolph
receiving the tidings of his election to the imperial throne;
the same emperor taking the cross from the altar at his
-coronation at Aix-la-Chapelle. Over the principal inner portal
is represented the consecration of the church to the Virgin, on
the 1. St. Bernhard and St. Stephen, on the r. John the Baptist
And the painter Schraudolph.'

The entire length of the Cathedral is 476 ft., and the
breadth of the body 130 ft.; the transept is 190 ft. in length,
j&nd the body of the church 100 ft high; externally the length
is exactly 200 yds., and the breadth of the front 58 yds. In
the interior from the entrance-choir to the kings* choir is
"90 yds., the kings* choir 30, and the principal and foundation
choir 56 yds. long; the breadth of the nave is 60 and that
•of the chief choir about 87 yds. The central portion of the
•edifice is double the height of the aisles.

Two inscriptions in the church itself, over the W. side-
•doors, are to the following effect: This house of God, destroyed
•by fire in 1689, was rebuilt in 1772 by the Archbishop Imperial
Count of Limhurg'Styrum , despoiled in 1794, again restored in
1820 by Maximilian Joseph L, King of Bavaria. Maximilian 11.^
King of Bavaria caused it to be embellished with paintings by
JohannSchraudolph and adorned by Jos^h Schwarzmann, completed
in 1863,

In the kings' choir, on broad pedestals, stand two large
«tone * Statues; on the r. Rudolph of Habsburg, of Tyrolese
marble by Scfawanthaler, is represented in a sitting posture
with 8 sword in his r. hand and a helmet at his feet, as the
restorer of peace and order after the sad interregnum. The
features bear a faithful reserablanee to a genuine tombstone
of the emperor, which still exists in the vaults of the church.
The statue on the 1., executed in sandstone by Ohmacht, re-
presents the emperor Adolph in a kneeling position.

On the r. and 1. sides of the passage to the principal choir
two reliefs, formerly in the vaults, were built into the walls

204 Route 48. SPBYER.

in 1853; each contains full-figared likenesses of fonr emperors,

partially gilt, and bearing old Latin inscriptions.

The frescoes in the nave, finished in 1852, are 32 in

number, and are among the finest specimens of modem

German art.

**FMM)OMy executed by Joh, Schraudolph, assisted by C, Schraudolph
and others, since 1845: the decorations by Joseph Schwarzmann. Have,
N. wall: 1. A.dam and Eve; 2. Abraham's promise; 3. David's vision; 4. The
birth of the Virgin; 5. Her bethrothal; 6. Visited by the angel; 7. Adoration
of the Magi; 8. The circumcision; 9. Mary finds Jesus in the Temple: 10. Jo-
seph's death; 11. Jesns teaching; 12. The risen Saviour. S. wall: 1. Noidi's
thaulcolfering ; 2. Moses at the bush; 3. Prophesying of Jeremias; 4. Mary's
sacrifice; 5. The Angel's greeting; 6. The nativity of Christ; 7. Bimeon's
prophecy; 8. The flight to Egypt; ^. Jesus at Nazareth; 10. Marriage at
Cana; 11. Crucifixion; 12. Descent of the Holy Ghost. On the vaulted
cupola; the Lamb, Abel, Abraham, Melchisedech, the manna, Isaiah, Jere-
miah, Ezekiel, Daniel, and the Evangelists. 8. side^choir: Stoning of
Stephen; above il Stephen before the council; to the i. the consecration of
the deacons and beheading of the martyr Stephen; on the wall at the back:
prayer of the same saint. N. side-choir: Vision of St. Bernhard; above
it, arrival of St. Bernhard in Speyer; on the r., his prayer at the altar, and
under it the presentation of the banner of the Cross; on the back part of
the wall: Miraculous cure of a boy; Departure of the saints. Foundation
choir: Mary and John; Death of Mary; Her interment, ascension and co-
ronation.— The coloured sketches and cartoons are exhibited in a room above
the S. baptistery (adm. 12 kr.); entrance from the S. side-choir. On the
exterior a gallery without balustrades extends round the whole cathedral and
not only affords a fine view of the neighbourhood, bat gives the visitor an
opportunity of inspecting the frescoes in the nave and choir from above.
The sexton (30 kr.) acts as guide. — The crypt, restored in 1857, under the
choir, is in an architectural point of view well worth visiting.

The ancient Churchyard of the cathedral is now converted
into grounds planted with trees. On the S. side of the bnilding
is the Oelberg (Mt. of Olives), a carious mass of stone, with
emblematical representations in sandstone, surrounded by five
insulated Gothic pillars, the whole erected in 1441. It was
originally a chapel in the ancient cloisters, of which no trace
is now left, and represented the garden of Gethsemane and
the capture of the Saviour. Near it under the trees is the
Domnapf, or cathedral -bowl, a large vessel of sandstone, once
marking the boundary between the episcopal and civic juris-
diction. Every new bishop was obliged, after having vowed
to respect the freedom of the town, to fill this vessel with
wine, which was then emptied to his health by the towns-
people. To the £. of the choir rises from among the trees
the Heidenthurmchen (Heathens' Tower), the foundation of which
is ascribed to the Romans. It belonged in all probability to
the old town-wall built by Bishop Rudger in 1080. It contains
the bones of some antediluvian animals and relics of the
middle ages. In a N.E. direction from the cathedral is an
open hall enclosed by railings called the Hall of Antiquities^ in
which Roman and other relics found in the Rhenish Palatinate
are preserved.

BRUCHSAL. 49, Route. 205

The Cathedral is bounded on the £. by the broad Maximi-
lian road; on the W. by a fine old tower called the AltpOrtel,
the sole relic of the once free Imperial town; the imperial
eagle which formerly adorned its summit has long since dis-
appeared.

The devastations of the French in Speyer have left few other

relics of antiquity. A mouldering wall by the Protestant church

is all that remains of the ancient imperial palace called the

Betscher, where 29 diets were held, from one of which, under

Charles V., emanated in 1529 the celebrated "Protest" from

which the '^Protestants " derive their appellation. The bishops,

who like those of Cologne were not permitted to live in the

town, resided up to the commencement of the 17th cent, in

the Madenburg (p. 193), and afterwards in Brachsal.

From Speyer travellers may descend the Rhine in V4 hr. to Ketsch (Inn)
by small boat (48 kr. and upwards according to the number of the party),
whence a good footpath, traversing a pine-forest, leads to Schwetzingen
(p. 186) in Va hr.

48. From Heidelberg to Carlsruhe.

Baden Railway. By express in IV^ hr., by ordinary trains in 3 hrs.
Fares by express 2 f1. 42 and 1 fl. 51 kr.; by ordinary trains 2 il. 12 kr.,
1 fl. 30 kr. and 1 fl.

The line traverses the wide and fertile plain, bounded on the
E. by a low range of hills, and intersects fields, meadows, and
small plantations, and here and there passes villages peeping
out from among innumerable fruit-trees. The train has scarcely
left the station before the new cemetery-chapel, and behind it
the slender tower of the Eonigsstuhl come in sight. Liangen-
br&Gken (OcAs; Sonne), the third station, possesses sulphur baths,
and near it, to the r. of the line, is Kislan, formerly a hunting-
castle of the archbishops of Speyer, now a penitentiary for
women. Opposite to it, at some distance off, lies Mingolaheim,
where in 1622 Count Ernst of Mansfeld, the ally of the Elector
Frederick V., gained a victory over the Bavarians under
Tilly.

Bruchsal {*Badischer Hof, R.48, B.24, A. 18 kr.; Zdhringer
Hof\ formerly a residence of the archbishops of Speyer, now
the seat of a court of justice held in the Schloss. The
castellated bnilding to the 1. of the line is a prison, capable
of containing 408 criminals in separate cells* The church of
St Peter contains monuments of the last bishops of the place.

At Bruchsal is the junction of the Wurttemherg West-line
and the Baden State-railway, which is connected by means of
the former line with the WUrttemberg North-line (to Stuttgart
in 2—3 hrs.).

206 Route 50. CARLSRUHE.

On the Michaelsberg, near Unter-Grombach, is situated the
MichaeUcapelie, and on an eminence near Weingarten the tower
of the rained castle of Schmalenetein.

Durlach {*CarUburg^ R. and B. 54 kr.), the ancient capital
of the Dachy of Baden-Durlach, was, with the exception of
5 houses, burned to the ground by the French in 1688. The
lofty watch-tower of the Thurmbergy visible for many miles
round, commands a magnificent view as far as Strasbourg.
Here the line to Pforzheim diverges to the 1.

The train now proceeds by the side of the straight high-
road, planted with rows of poplars, past the old Benedictine
monastery of Gottsau (on the r.), now an Artillery-barrack. The
station of Carlsmhe deserves a moment's attention on account
of the excellence of its design and arrangement. On the W.
side stands a fine Statue of the state^minister Winter in the
posture of an orator.

60. Carlsmlie.

Hotels. *Erbprinz, in the Langestmsse, very attentiTe landlord, R.
1 II., L. 18, B. 24, A. 24 kr.; ^Eugiish Hotel, and *Hdtel Grosse, in
the market-place, similar prices. — *GoIdnerAdler, the second hotel to
the 1. on entering the town by the Ettliuger Thor, moderate. Oruner
Hof, to the E. of the station.

Oaff-Bettaoraat. *Hoeck (Grauer Hof)* Beck, Carl-FriedrichistTaase ;
beer at Kappler's, Neff's, etc.

Garriafea. One-horse, for 1—2 pers. for V4 hr. 12 kr. To the station to
meet the early train (before 6) 1 fl.

Telegraph Office in the Kreuastrasse, No. 14.

Xilitary Kusie daily from 12 to 1 in the Schlossplatz.

English Cnhuroh Service in the Chapel of the Stiftang, near the Mfifal-
berg gate.

Carl8rahe,the capital and residence of the court of the Grand-
duchy of Baden, with a population of 27,000 (10,000 Rom. Cath.,
and 1000 Jews), is situated 3 M. from the Rhine, on the skirts
of the Hardwald, and is indebted for its origin to some
differences between the Margrave Carl Wiihelm and the towns-
people of Durlach. He commenced in 1715 to lay out the
grounds of the town round his hunting-castle, which soon gave
place to the present palace. The plan of the town resembles
a fan, the palace being the centre from which the streets
radiate. Carlsruhe is a quiet, clean and well-built tovm, in
which three distinct architectural styles may be observed.
Ist: that of the beginning of the last century, — the older French
style; 2nd: imitations of the Greek and Roman styles; dd: the
modem Romanesque (circular) School, of which the talented
architect HUbsch is a warm supporter.

The Ettlinger Thor (PI. 45) near the station, adorned with
half-relief sculptures, emblematical of the union of a part of

Schloss. CARLSRUHE. 50, Route, 207

the Rhenish Palatinate with Baden, forms the N. limit of the
town. The objects of interest to the traveller are almost all
comprised in the Carl-Friedrichsstrasse, which runs from the
above-mentioned gate to the palace. They present themselves
in the following order: the Obelisk, with the arms of Baden
and bast of the Grand-duke Carl (1811 — 1818), with inscription;
to the r. of the monument the Palace of the Margrave Wilhelm;
on the 1. side of the market-place the Town-hall (PI. 41), and
on the r. side the Prot Church (PI. 49^, with its five Corinthian
pillars, resembling a Greek temple; Statue of the Grand-duke
Ludwig (1818 — 1830); Pyramid in honour of the founder of
Carlsruhe, the Margrave Carl (d. 1738); in front of the palace
the * Bronze statue of the Grand-duke Charles Frederick (d. 1811),
executed by Schwanthaler; at the corners of the pedestal are
four female figures, personifying the four divisions of the Duchy,
the whole well-designed, the statue itself being particularly
well executed.

The Schlofls (PI. 1), or palace, erected in 1750, is built
in the form of a semi-circle, and is surmounted by the Blei-
thurm (140 ft), open on Frid. from 4 to 6 p.m., whence a
good survey of the town and the Hardwald may be made.
The dining-hall, ball-room, throne-room and other apartments
are magnificently fitted up. The Court-library (PI. 3) occupies
the E. wing; a Cabinet of Nat History (open Wed. and Sat
10 — 12 and 3 — 5 o'clock) in the same part of the building,
contains among other curiosities the remains of several ante-
diluvian animals, and a valuable collection of shells. The
well-appointed ducal stables are also on the same side.

In the crescent to the W. of the Schloss is situated the
Court-theatre, a handsome modern building, erected in 1847 —
1853, to replace the former, which had been burned down.
In the pediment to the r. are reliefs of Goethe, Schiller, and
Lessing, and on the 1. of Mozart, Beethoven, and Gluck; in
the centre the Muse of dramatic Poetry.

An arched passage in the W. wing of the Schloss leads
to the Palace-garden, the grounds of which extend into the
Hardwald. About 300 yds. to the N.W. of the Bleithurm, in
the middle of a small alley, is a bust of the poet Hebely with
quotations from his poetry. To the 1. of the entrance of the
garden are situated the extensive hot-houses fitted up as a
Winter-garden, containing a palm-house, pond for the Victoria
regia, orangery, green-houses, &c. The adjoining Botanical
garden (PI. 9) is open daily (Sat. and Sun. excepted), before 12
and after 2 o'clock; adm. to the hot-houses on Mon. and Frid.
only, 9—12 and 3 — 5 o'clock; to procure admittance at other
times application must be made to the committee.

208 Route 50. CARLSRUHK.

Adjacent to the botanical garden is the "^Hall of Art
(Fl. 8), erected by Hubsch (1836—1845) in the modern Ro-
manesque style. It contains collections of pictures, casts and
antiquities, open to the public on Wed. and Sun. 11 — 12 and
2 — 4 o'clock ; at other times for a fee of 30 kr. Frommel's
catalogue (42 kr.) gives a full description of everything
contained in the Hall. The director is the eminent painter
K. F. Lessing.

The stAir case is adorned by some fine frescoes by Sohwind. That ou
the wall at the back represents the consecration of the cathedral at Freibai^
by Dnke Conrad of Z&hringen; the flag-bearer is a portrait of the Orand-
duke Leopold, holding the crown-prince by the hand, the crowned female
figures are the Grand duchess and the princesses.

The collection of pictures is, ou the whole, one of considerable value,
especially those by modern German masters, but those of the older schools,
among which are several attributed to Murillo, Rem^tuutt, Michtl AngelOy Ac,
are of inferior worth.

The Polytechnic School (PI. 62), an excellent edacaiional
intitution, possessing a considerable laboratory and attended
by abont 500 pupils, is situated near the Durlacher Thor at
the E. end of the Langestrasse, and was erected by Hubsch.
Over the entrance are two stone statues by Raufer^ of Keppler,
who represents the mathematical, and Erwin of Steinbach the
architectural sciences. In the immediate vicinity of the Dur-
lacher Thor, a little way back from the street, stands the
Arsenal (PI. 65), bravely defended in the revolution of 1849
by the townspeople against the insurgents.

The Finanz -Miniaierium (PI. 29), at the £. comer of the

Schlossplatz, was also erected by Hubsch, as well as the

Landesgestut (national stud) near the station, the arrangements

of which are worthy the notice of those who are interested

in such establishments.

The Oemettry of Carlsruhe deserves a visit ou account of the taste and care
displayed in the arrangement of the grounds, as well as from its tombstones
and monuments. Among the latter may be mentioned the *Preussen-
Denkmal, a handsome monument in memory of the Prussians who fell in
the revolution of 1849, erected in 1851 from designs famished by the late
king Fred. William lY. himself.

Railway from Carlsruhe to the Rhine, by MuMhurg to Maxau
in V, hr.; fares 27, 18, 12 kr.

61. From Carlsruhe to Baden.

Bv the Baden Railway in 1—2 hrs. Fares 1 11. 49 kr., 1 II. 9 kr.,
or 48 kr. As the train approaches Rastadt a 6ne view of the Black Forest
may be obtained from the £. side of the train.

As the train leaves the station, the statne of the minister
Winter (p. 206) is seen on the r., and beyond it Kessler^8 extensive
engine manufactory. Farther on, at some distance to the r..

RASTADT. 51. Route. 209

lies the \illage oi Bulach with its handsome church with two
spires, erected by Hiibsch. To the 1., on a well-wooded
eminence, lies the industrial little town of Sttlingen {Hirsch;
Krone) with large velvet and paper manufactories.

From Stat. Muggensturm an omnibus (also diligence twice
daily, 36 kr.) runs to Gernsbach (p. 214) in the Murgthal, the
mountains enclosing which bound the view to the 1. The
heights of the Black Forest now gradually come in sight, the
most conspicuous of which is the Mercnriusberg with its
tower. In the foreground are the ruins of the castle of Eber-
steinburg (p. 215). As the train approaches Rastadt, the statue
of Jupiter on the palace is seen high above the green ramparts
of the town.

Rastadt (*Posf; Kreuz; *Lbwe; *Laterne; the two latter
are second-class houses), with a pop. of 6000, was burned
down by the French in 1689, but soon after rebuilt by the
celebrated imperial general, the Margrave Ludwig of Baden,
and continued to be the residence of the Margraves till the
line became extinct.

In 1840 Rastadt was destined to be a fortress of the Con-
federation, and is garrisoned by Austrian, Baden and Prussian
troops.

The handsome Palace, completed by the Margravine Sibylla

Augusta (p. 215), now employed as a barrack, the garden being

converted into an exercising-ground, stands on an eminence

and is surmounted by a gilded statue of Jupiter. It contains

a collection of Turkish trophies, taken by the Margrave Ludwig

Wilhelm, arms, caparisons &c., besides a number of family

portraits. The tower commands an extensive view (castellan's

fee 24 kr.). In one of the apartments the articles which formed

the basis of the peace concluded at Baden in Switzerland

between France and Austria, which terminated the war of

succession, were signed by Prince Eugene of Savoy and Marshal

Villars. A congress was also held here in 1797 — 1799, which,

however, led to no result, and at its close the two French

delegates were barbarously murdered in the adjacent wood near

the Rheinauer Thor; the pepetrators of the outrage were never

discovered.

The fortress of Rastadt served iu 1849 as a last place of refuge to the
remnant of the Baden insurgents, about 6000 in number, among whom were
adventurers of all nations. After a resistance of three weeks, they at la»t
surrendered to the Prussian troops, July 23rd, 1849. Curiously enough, the
revolution had also begun at Rastadt, on ii&y 11th, in the same year.

The train now crosses the Murg. Farther on, between Rastadt

and Oo8, the hunting-seat Favorite may be seen in the midst

of shrubberies. At Oos the Baden branch diverges from the

main-line, and in 10 min. the latter place is reached.

Baedeker's Rhine. 14

210

52. Baden and its Environs.

Hotels. *Yictoria-HoteI, in theLeopoldsplatz. Badeu Hotel (with
baths), at the entrance to the town. *£ngli8h Hotel, at the Promeiiadeu-
brucke. * European Hotel, opposite to the pump-room. These four Hotel.'»
are of the 1st class; charges: R. I'A fl. and upwards, L. 24, B. 42, D. inc. W.
at 5 o'clock 1 fl. 48, A. 24 kr. Kussischer Hof, *Zahringer Hof (with
baths), Franzosischer Hof, Hotel Royal* Hirsch (with baths),
Darmstadter Hof (with baths), charges somewhat more moderate than in
the first mentioned. — *8tadt Baden, immediately on leaving the station,
R. 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 kr., L. 18. B. 28, D. at 1 o'clock 1 fl. 12, at 5 o'clock
1 fl. 36, A. 18 kr. — *Stadt Strassburg, Hotel and Cafe, at the end of
the new promenade, R. 1 fl,, B. 24, D. exc. W. at 1 o'clock 1 fl., at 6 o'clock
1 fl. 24 kr. — Eugel, at the Gernsbacher Thor, more moderate. Bar in
the Lichtenthal (p. 212), 1%"^.. from the Con versa tionshaus, very moderate. —
The best wines of the country are Affeuthaler (red), Klingenberger and
Markgrafler (white).

Oaftot Cafe -Restaurant in the Conversationshaus. A la Fleur,
near the Russ. Hof. Ca/e de Holla nde on the new Promenade, &c. At
the following beer may procured: Haug, and Gorger, at the station.
Geist, at the Gernsbacher Thor. Krone.

Telegraph-«fAee at the station.

Theatre. Performnnces in summer by a French company, in spring and
autumn by that of the Carlsrnhe theatre.

Carriages. The following charges include drivers* fees. Eber»teinschlo*$ 5,
or returning by Gernsbach d'/jf Ebersteinburg 4, Fremenberg 3, same by the
Jagdhaus 4, Jagdhaua 3, Seelach 3, Geroldsau to the water/all 4, Favorite
SVs* Gernsbach 4V2, RothenfeU 47,, Yburg 5. to the old caatle (allowing time
to inspect it) and back 4 fl. (Should any of the above excursions occupy more
than 6 hrs. the charge is increased bv one half). Ebersteinac' lo»», Gerns-
bach, Rothen/els, Kuppenheim^ Favorite 7 fl., Forbach 9 fl., same through
the Murgthal lU fl., Wildbad 18 fl., Rippoldsau 20 fl. — By time: V4 ^r. for
1—2 pers. 24 kr., 3—4 pers. 30 kr.; y, hr. 36—45 kr.; »/« hr. 48 kr.— I ft.-,
1 hr. 1 fl.— 1 fl. 15 kr.; 2 hrs. 1 fl. 48 kr.-2 fl. 12 kr., Ac. — Donkeys:
Vi day 1 fl. 12 kr., whole day 2 fl. Carriage and donkey-stands opposite to
the English Hotel, at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversations-
haus, opposite to the Baden Hotel, and in the Leopoldsplatz. Omnibus from
the station into the town 12 kr. inc. luggage.

English Church Serviee in the Spital Kirche.

Baden has the reputation of being an expensive watering-place, and such it
probably is to those who frequent the first-class hotels, attend the numerous
Matinees musicales (adm. 5 — 20 fr.), and are led away by the seductive
attractions of the gaming-tables; but all the charms and enjoyments of the
place may be participated in without any very serious inroad being made
upon the purse. The expenses of a single visitor need not exceed 100—120 fl.
per month, for Baden affords, in common with large towns, the opportunities
of regulating the expenditure in accordance with the resources at command.
A respectable private lodging in a good situation may be procured for
6—10 fl. a week; breakfast in the lodging-houses costs 12—15 kr. ; dinner at
a restaurant 42 kr. (e. g. at Fran Zerr*8, Leopoldstrasse 154, at any hoar
after 12 o'clock, price as above; or at Frau Goringer^s, in the new Pro-
menade, or at BuhVs). A bath costs 12—36 kr. according to circumstances.
The water may be drunk in both the pump-rooms without charge, other kinds
of mineral water, with whey and goats' milk, are supplied in the new pump-
room at fixed charges.

The visitor who wishes to spent only one day at Badeu should, after
4 devoting an hour or so the Old castle, Uke the following drive: by Hauen-
Eberstein to the Farorrte, by Kuppenheim, Rothen/els (good hotel and bath-
/ house, and seat of the Margrave Wilhelm), Gaggenau, Ottenau, Gernsbach
through the Murgthal, the Ebersteinschloss, Lichtenthal, and back to Baden.
This drive, comprising the most remarkable points in the environs of Baden,
costs for a one-horse 6, for a two-horse carriage 8 fl., nud requires about
oars. The visitor would thus have time enough to visit the "Morning-cure"

' J

Pump-room. BADEN. 52. Route. 211

in the new Pump-room C6— S a.m.) and see the "Corso" after 6 p.m. in the
''Lichtenthaler Allee." The animated scene in front of the Conversationshaus
does not commence till after 7. The drive may be shortened by 1 hr. by
omitting the Rococo Favorite (p. 215).

The pedestrian may vralk from Baden to the castle of Eberstein and
Gernsbach in 3 hrs., and then take the diligence (36 kr.), or the omnibus
(30 kr.) 'which runs every morning and evening by Ottenau, OaggenaUf
Hothenfels, and Bischtoeier, to the station at Muggensturm.

Baden (generally called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from
the places of the same name near Vienna and in Switzerland)
lies at the entrance of the Black Forest, among picturesque
and well- wooded hills in the delightful valley of the Oos or
Oel-Bach. It vies with Heidelberg and Freiburg in the beauty
of its situation, which is scarcely inferior to any in Upper
Germany. The climate is mild and salubrious, and the efficacy
of the waters was known even to the Romans, who called it
Aurelia aqvensis. For six centuries it was the seat of the
Margraves of Baden, among whom Hermann III. (d. 1190 in
the Crusades) was the first who resided in the old castle.
The new castle, immediately above the town, was erected by
the Margrave Christoph in 1479, but both town and castle
suffered so much in the 30 Years' war, and especially in the
war of the Palatinate (1689), that the Margraves soon after
transferred their residence to Rastadt.

The town is not large (pop. 7000), but the influx of visitors
is very great, amounting to upwards of 40,000 annually, and
even in winter about 200 strangers reside here. The French
language and manners predominate.

The Ooshach separates the bathing from the town-population.
The former confine themselves almost exclusively to the grounds
which extend along the 1. bank of the stream, the Conversations'-
haus and the Pump-room being the central points of attraction.
The •Pump-room ("Trinkhalle") was erected in 1842, and
decorated with 14 frescoes by Gotzenberger, representing tra-
ditions of the Black Forest, but unfortunately somewhat faded.
Admittance free. A few paces farther is the Conversations-
hails, magnificently fitted up, and containing drawing-rooms,
dining, concert and gaming-rooms. The latter are open from
11 a.m. till 12 at night, and the fact that the lessee pays a rent
of about 11,000/., and has besides to defray all the expenses
of the establishment, will afford some idea of the extent to
which play is indulged in. The shady alley which leads from
the £. side of the Conversationshaus to the English Hotel is
the bazaar of Baden, which, as well as the other walks in the
vicinity, is the rendezvous of the gay world from 3 to 4, and
during the open air concerts after 7 p.m.

A handsome avenue, which commences near the Conver-
sationshaus leads in a S.E. direction to the (1 ^2 M.) Convent

14*

212 Route 52, BADKN. Pfarrkirche.

of liichtenthal {Bar; Ludwiyshad; Graff's brewery), founded
in 1245 by Irmengard, grand-daughter of Henry the Lion, and
widow of Hermann IV. of Baden, as is recorded by the picture
in the choir of the church, where the beautiful tombstone
of the foundress is also to be seen. At the side-altars are
the richly decorated skeletons of the martyrs St. Pius and
St. Benedictns. The convent has fortunately escaped the de-
vastations of war and the ravages of time, and is still occupied
by nuns, who pass their days in the strictest seclusion. The
*TodUncapeUe (mortuary chapel) which stands apart in front
of the church, belongs to the 13th cent., and was formerly
the church of the convent. It contains tombstones of the
Margraves of Baden-Durlach, and altar-pieces by the old German
master Hans Baldung, surnamed Grun. The Orphan Asylum^
situated within the precincts of the convent, was founded by
the wealthy and benevolent tailor Stahf who was afterwards
ennobled under the name of von Ortenberg. The Gunzen-
hachthaly the second valley which diverges from the road in a
S. direction, is a favourite haunt of mineralogists.

The Theatre, erected in 1861, at the entrance of the
Lichtenthal avenue, and adjoining the Conversationshaus, is
magnificently fitted up. Near it is the Statue of the Grand-
duke Leopold, in the Leopoldsplatz, also erected in 1861.

Among the churches of Baden the only one worthy of
note is the * Pfarrkirche, or Stiftskircke, belonging to the
15th cent., "in sceculo VIL exatructOy in eccleaiam coUegiatam
erecta 145S, incendio vastata 1689, reparata 17f>S.^' The choir
contains * monuments of the Rom. Cath. Margraves of Baden,
commencing with Bernhard I. (d. 1431).

The most interesting are those of Leopold Wilhelm (d. 1671 at Warasdin iu
Hungary), the celebrated general who fought against the Turks with Stahrem-
berg and Moutecucoli — a recumbent effigy on a sarcophagus supported by two
Turks; Frederick, bishop of Utrecht (d. 1517), a knightly figure in armour;
Ludwig Wilhelm (d. 1707 at Rastadt; see p. 309), the greatest general of his
time, who commanded in 26 campaigns without sustaining a single defeat,
and was the companion of Prince Eugene In the Turkish wars (executed by
Pigalj the sculptor of the monument of Marshal Saxe at Strasburg, but
overloaded with ornaments and devoid of good taste).

The handsome new Protestant Church is ' situated on
the S.E. side of the town, on the r. bank of the Oos.

The Old Churchyard, at the Gernsbacher Thor, with a
statue of a Gravedigger on a lofty pedestal, contains several
well-known names, among others those of the poet Ludwig
Robert (born at Berlin 1778, d. 1832) and the French general
Guilleminot (d. 1840). There is also a curious representation
of the Mount of Olives, with Christ praying and the sleeping
disciples. Above the entrance gateway is a relief (1482) of

Schloss, BADEN. 52, Route. 218

the head of the Saviour on a grave-cloth. The large new
Cemetery also contains several handsome monuments.

Behind the Pfarrkirche are the sources of the Hot Springs,
thirteen in number, which issue from the rocks of the palace-
terrace, called the Schneckengarten , and are conducted by
means of pipes to the different bathing-establishments of the
town. Their temperature ranges from 115° to 153° Fahr., and
they yield upwards of 90 gallons per minute. The principal
spring, called the Ursprung, is enclosed by ancient Roman
masonry, and the handsome building erected over the spot
in 1847 is fitted up for Vapour baths a la Russe.

A part of the old Pump-room has been fitted up as a Hall
of Antiquities C12 kr.), in which many Roman relics found
in the neighbourhood are exhibited, among others a mile-
stone bearing the name of Marcus Aurelius (Caracalla), stones
dedicated to Neptune, Minerva, and Hercules, the original of
the altar of Mercury on the Stauffenberg, and tombstones of
Roman soldiers.

The so-called Neue Schloss, situated on a hill above the
town, was founded in 1479, enlarged in 1519, dismantled
in 1689, and afterwards partially restored. It is now used as
a summer-residence by the Grand-duke, but contains few objects
of interest, with the exception of the subterranean vaults and
rooms, furnished with iron and stone doors, sometimes called
Roman baths, sometimes dungeons of the Vehmgericht (Secret
Tribunal). There are unmistakeable traces of ancient baths,
but whether they owe their origin to the Romans or not, is
involved in uncertainty (fee 18 kr.).

From the new castle a carriage-road ascends N. to the
Oid castle; about y, M. from the former, at the thatched summer-
house, a broad foot-path branches ofi^ to the r. through the
fragrant fir-wood ; sign-posts are placed at intervals ; ^/j M. farther,
at the Sophienrvhe, a clear spring of water, the path crosses
the road. Another ^^ hr. will bring the pedestrian to the castle.

The Old Castle, probably founded in the 10th or 11th cent.,
was, till the erection of the new castle, the seat of the Margraves,
and afterwards of several of the dowager Margravines, but
since its destruction by the French in 1689 it has been a
coiAplete ruin. The chapel of St. Ulrich, to the 1. on entering,
is now converted into an inn. The view from the top of the
tower is one of singular beauty; in the distance lies the
whole expanse of the valley of the Rhine from Worms to
beyond Strasburg (the town itself is hidden), and in the fore-
ground the lovely valley of Baden with its bright shining villas
and rich-pasture land, presenting a striking contrast to the
sombre hue of the fir- woods.

214 Route 52. GERNSBACH.

Near the old castle lie cleft masses of porphyry, resembling
in one place the ruined walls of a castle, in another a gigantic
tower, and in another a sea of rocks. At its base is a good
broad path leading to the Teu/elskanzel (devil's pulpit, see
below), and another to the summit of these rocks. Sign-posts
are placed in all directions.

On a rocky eminence about 2 M. to the-N.E. of the old
castle are situated the ruins of the castle of Alt-Eberstein,
of Roman origin, and once like the Yburg (p. 215) a Roman
watch-tower. An old Rhenish tradition relates that the
Emperor Otto I., being unable to take the castle by storm,
induced the count to leave it by inviting him to a tournament
and dance at Speyer, treacherously intending to attack the
stronghold in his absence. The count being informed of this
scheme by the emperor's daughter during the dance, immediately
hurried back to his castle, the capture of which was prevented
by his timely return. The tradition very properly ends with
the marriage of the heroic count and the daughter of the
emperor. A beautiful prospect, similar to that from the old
castle, is obtained from this point; it comprises the richly
cultivated lower Murgthal, with the flourishing villages of
Euppenheim, Bischweier, Rothenfels, Gaggenau and Ottenan.

The road from the old castle to Gernsbach (6 M.) leads
through the wood to the S. of the old castle, and passes the
Teu/eiskanzeL About iy4M. from the castle a cross is reached;
here the path leads in the direction of the village of Eberstein,
and then descends to the r. ; about 1 M. farther the wood to
the r. must be entered, and the Murgthal soon comes in view.
In 25 min. more the Neuhaus is reached, below which a broad
road descends to the r. to Staufenherg (1 y^ M.), then through
the valley to Gernsbach {ly^ M.). From Baden to Gernsbach
by the new carriage road by Lichtenthal and Oberbeuren is
a distance of 9 M.

Gernsbach {*Stern, R. 30, B. 18 kr.; *Lowe; ^Pfei/er's
pine-cone bath-etab. above the village, where the path to
Schloss Eberstein diverges, pleasant quarters for a prolonged
stay) on the Aturg, a small commercial town, inhabited prin-
cipally by wood-merchants. The new row of houses on the r.
bank of the Murg, opposite to the bridge, was built to replace
those burnt down by the insurgents in 1849. Drive to Rothen-
fels and the Favorite, see p. 210, to Muggensturm (p. 210), to
Forbach (p. 251) in the Murgthal (p. 250); one-horse carriage
to Baden 2 fl., there and back SVj, two-horse 3 fl. Wildbad
is about 8 M. distant from Gernsbach, carriage 6—10 fl. ;
diligence daily at 4 p.m.; fare 2 fl. 6 kr.

A path follows the stream in a S. direction, passing the

EBERSTEINSCHLOSS. 52, Route. 215

Klingel Chapel, and leading to the ^Ebersteinscliloss (2 M.),
a castle founded in the 13th cent., afterwards destroyed, and
in 1798 restored by the Margrave Frederick, under the name
of ^^Neu-Eberstein." It stands on a wooded eminence in a
most delightful situation, high above the Murg. The view
which it commands of the valley to Weissenbach and Hilpertsau,
and in an opposite direction to Gcrnsbach, is magnificent,
and comprises a large portion of the beautiful Murgthal.
The interior contains a number of ancient relics, weapons,
armour etc., and in one of the apartments a collection of
pictures of the 16th cent. Refreshments may be had from
the castellan. This point is generally visited from Baden
(3 hrs. on foot, 2 hrs. by carriage) by the carriage -road
passing Lichtenthal and Beuern, and leading through beautiful
wood scenery.

Half-way between Oos and Kastadt, to the E. from the
railway near Kuppenheim (p. 210), and 6 M. to the N.W. of
Baden, a large building is seen rising among the woods, the
Pavorite, a castle belonging to the Grand-duke, and erected
in 1725 by the Margravine Sibylla, wife of the Margrave
Ludwig Wilhelm. After the death of the latter, this remarkably
talented and beautiful woman, after having for 19 years
superintended the education of her sons, retired to this castle,
where she spent the remainder of her life in acts of penance
and devotion. In the Hermitage in the park are preserved
some relics of this singular character. The castle served as
a residence for the Prince, now king of Prussia, in 1849,
during the transformation of Rastadt into a fortress of the
Confederation. The steward who lives in the park shows the
chateau (fee 24 kr.), and supplies visitors with refreshments.

To the N.E. of Baden rise the Great and the Little Staufien.
The former (2240 ft.) is generally termed the Mercurius-
berg^, on account of the votive tablet to Mercury found on
the top and now exhibited at Baden, bearing the inscription:
IN H. D. D. DEO. MERCVR. ER. C. PRVSO. {in honorem
domus divince Deo Mercurio C. Pruso erexit). The tower
(136 steps) commands a magnificent *view (comp. panorama sold
here for 24 kr.) of Strasburg, the town and environs of Heidel-
berg, Baden and its environs, the Murgthal &c. Refreshments
may be procured on the top. The road to the Mercuriusberg
(272 hrs. from Baden) diverges at the Teufelskanzel to the r.
from the Gernsbach road, and winds up to the summit. A good
walker should return by the Schaa/berg or the Steinbruch
(quarry), although the path is somewhat fatiguing.

In the opposite direction, 7 M. to the S.W. of Baden, lies
the ancient Yburg, like Alt-Eberstein (p. 214) once a Roman

216 Boute 52. ALLERHEILIGEN.

watch-tower and stronghold, and still in a good state of pre-
servation. The massive ruins, surrounded by dark fir-wood,
form a magnificent foreground to the picture of the broad
valley of the Rhine beyond. A good-carriage road leads to
the castle. From Geroldsau a footpath leads by MctUchhach
and the wooded ridge of the Iwerst to the Yburg in about

1 Yj hr. From the latter to Steinbach (see below) 1 Yj M.

One of the finest excursions in the vicinity of Baden is
to *Allerheiligen (see p. 254) by Achern. Carriages to be
had at the Krone or Adler at Achern; charges for the whole
excursion, 5 — 6 fl. ; if not farther than the Neuhaus (p. 254),
4 fl. 30 kr. Travellers who desire to return from Allerheiligen
to Achern (2 hrs. drive) by another road, should rejoin
their conveyance near the waterfall , and drive in 1 Y4 hr.
to Oppenau, then down the Renchthal in 2 hrs. to Lautenbach
anl Obcrkirch (* Adler, good Klingenberger wine, which is
produced here), and thence to the station of Appenweier or
Renchen. A carriage from Achern for the complete tour costs
7 — 10 fl. Carriages from Allerheiligen, see p. 254; Mummei-
see and Hormsgrinde, see p. 251.

53. From Baden to Strasburg.

(Comp. Map R. 52.)

By the Baden Railway in 2— 3'/4hrs.; fares: by express 3 fl. 37 and

2 fl. 34 kr., ordinary trains 3 fl. 14, 2 fl. 18 and 1 fl. 31 kr. Best views
to the J.

At Oos is the junction of the Baden branch with the main
line. To the 1. are seen the mountains of the Black Forest
in picturesque groups, and farther on, the grey tower of Yburg
(see. above), situated on a flattened mountain peak. Near the
second station of Steinbach, on a barren hill to the 1., stands a
red sandstone monument, erected in memory of Erwin, architect
of Strasburg cathedral, who was born at Steinbach, and died
at Strasburg in 1318. In the neighbourhood the Affenthaler,
one of the best red wines of Baden, is produced.

Buhl (Rabe) possesses one of the most ancient churches in
the whole country. On the mountains are seen the ruins of
the castle of Windeck, once the seat of a powerful race which
became extinct in 1572. Near Buhl are two unpretending and
inexpensive watering-places, the Habbad (2 M.), with mineral
springs and hydropathic estab., and the Erlenbad (3 M. from
Achern), a warm saline spring of 70" Fahr. The former lies
to the N., and the latter to the S. of Windeck.

The high mountain to the 1. of the station Ottersweier, with
the pile of stones on its summit, is the Hornisgrinde (p. 251),

■■-i

1'?

..J

ores'

liiei

* . . -J- • - -«

KEHL. 53, Houte. 217

the highest point (3612 ft.) of the lower part of the Black
Forest. From the Erlenhad a new road leads to the summit
by Sassbachtcalden and the Brigittenschloss in 3 hrs.

At Sassbach, lYs M. to the N. of Achern, the French
marshal Tnrenne fell in an engagement he had just commenced
-with the imperial general Montecucoli, but which on his death
was discontinued, the French army retreating across the Rhine.
The spot is marked by a grey gran'te obelisk, erected by the
French in 1829, on which the marshal's victories arc recorded.
A French invalide has the charge of the monument, which is
visible from the railway; the ground on which it stands belongs
to the French government.

In the market-place of Aclxem {* Krone; Adler; carriage
to AUerheiligen 7 — 8 fl.; beer at Huberts) stands a handsome
monument in memory of the Grand-duke Leopold (d. 1852).
The town possesses also an admirably conducted Lunatic Asylum,
capable of accommodating 400 patients. To the E. the view
is bounded by the Hornisgrinde. Beyond Rencken the spire of
Strasburg Cathedral becomes visible in the distance to the W.

At Appenweier [whence a diligence (2 fl. 48 kr.) runs daily
in summer into the Renchthal as far as Rippoldsau (p. 255) in
6^/2 hrs.] the Strasburg railway diverges from the main line,
passing the stations of Kork and Kehi, and traversing a district
rendered marshy by the frequent inundations of the Kimig
which falls into the Rhine at Kehl.

Kehl {*Post or Weisses Lamm; Reh/uss, R. 1 fl.; Salmen,
at the station), formerly only a fortified "tete de pont" of
Strasburg, possesses a handsome new Church of red sandstone.

At Kehl the junction line between the Baden and the French
railways crosses the Rhine by means of an iron bridge, im-
mediately below the bridge of boats.

The bridge rests on four pillars, is furnished with a turning or swing-
bridge on each bank, and terminates at either end in a cast-iron portal.
The pillars on the French and German sides respectively record the^ names
of the French emperor, the reigning Grand-duke, and the engineers and
other officials entrusted with the construction of the bridge.

The train now passes the Desaix-monument (I., see p. 222),
skirts the cemetery (r.) and stops at a station near the S.E.
gate {porte d'Austerlitz) of Strasburg. It next describes a wide
circuit round the S. side of the town and near the village of
Konigshofen joins the Bale - Strasburg line (comp. R. 56).
The formalities of the "douane" are the same at the ** porte
d'Austerlitz" as at the principal station.

64. Strasburg.

Hotelc. *ViIIe de Paris (PI. a) a handsome new building; R. from 2 fr.,
L. 1 fr., B. \% fr., D. exc. W. 3 fr., A. 1 fr. •Maison Ronge (PL b).

218 Route 54. STRASBURG. Cathedral.

H6tel d'Angleterre near the stat., well spoken of. Vignette (PL e,
Orand^-Rue 119); La Pomme d'or (PI. f) in tiie Rue d'Or; Badischer
Hof.

Cafte. *Cafe Cade in the Kleberplatz ; *CafeAdani, or duBroglie;
Oafe de TEurope and Cafe de I'Univers both near the Kleberplatz;
Cafe Uauswald, not far from the Railway station.

Pnblie Gardena. Jardin Lips and Jardin Kammerer, both outside
the Porte des Juifs; music and other entertainments in the evening 2 or
3 times a week. The Orangerie, a well-kept garden belonging to the town,
situated in the Raprechtsau, about 3 M. distant, affords an agreeable promenade.

Cabs or Citadines 1—2 persons for '/, hr. 50 cent., '/^ hr. 90 cent., from
the Strasbourg station to the Rhine bridge 1 fr.

Bailway Station on the N.W. side of the town for the Paris, Bfile,
Hayence and Kehl lines; on the last-named line there is also a station at the
Austerlitz Gate.

P&t6t de foie gras at Henry's, Meissengasse, Doyen, Munstergasse, or
Hummel, Schlossergasse; prices from 5 to 40 fr. according to size. The
geese's livers not unfrequently attain a weight of 2 — 3 lbs. each.

Travellers whose time is limited should ascend the tower of the
Cathedral (see below), inspect the cathedral itself, and visit the Church of
St. Thomas (p. 221).

English Chnreh Serfice in the Hotel de Paris.

Gates doted at 11.

Strasburg^ (Ger. Strassbury) , the Argenforattim of the Ro-
mans, formerly capital of Lower Alsace and one of the most
important towns on the Rhine, now the capital of the French
Department of the Lower Rhine, lies on the ///, about 3 M.
from the Rhine with which it is connected by a small and a
large canal. On the 30th of Sept., 1681, in a time of peace,
Strasburg was seized by Louis XIV., and France was con-
firmed in the possession of the city by the peace of Ryswyk
in 1697. Since then the fortifications have been greatly en-
larged, so that it is now one of the strongest fortresses and
the third largest arsenal in France. Garrison upwards of
6000: pop. 79,000, of whom nearly one half are Protestants.

The Emperor Maximilian I., in writing of Strasbourg, de-
scribes it as the strong bulwark of the holy Roman kingdom,
and praises it highly for the good old German honesty, con-
stancy and bravery of its inhabitants. The town has to this
day a German air, and although it has been under French
dominion for 170 years, the ancient language and customs
of the townspeople still prevail.

The * Cathedral (PI. 1) (always open except from 12 to
2 o'clock) was first founded by Clovis in 510, but having
been destroyed by lightning in 1007, the foundation of the
present edifice was laid by Bishop Werner of Habsburg in 1015,
and the interior completed in 1275. In 1277 the erection of
the *Fa^ade was commenced by Erwin of Steinbach and his
daughter Sabina, to the latter of whom the church is indebted
for the magnificent decorations of the *Fortal. Above it in
niches are the equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, Rudolph
of Habsburg, and (since 1823) Louis XIV. The sculptures

Cathedral STRASBURG. 54. Route, 219

above the portal belong chiefly to the 13th and 14th centuries.
The upper part of the spire was erected by Johann Hultz of
"Cologne at the commencement of the 15th cent, in the capricious
and variegated modern Gothic style, and finally completed
in 1439. The upper part of the S. tower is entirely wanting.
Few cathedrals offer so good an opportunity for tracing the
progress of the Gothic style from the time when it took its
origin from the modem Romanesque style (choir, crypt and
part of transept) to its highest and purest perfection (the body
of the church completed in 1275, and the facade of 1277 — 1339);
and to its decline (the platform between the towers of 1365,
and the top of the spire of 1439).

The entire length of the edifice is 175 yds., and the breadth
€5 yds.; the middle nave is 95 ft. in height and 42 ft. in
breadth. Some of the stained-glass windows are admirably
executed; the Magi with the Virgin Mary in the north aisle are
modern. The pillars and columns of the interior are elegant
and are embellished with statues, but on the whole the church
is somewhat destitute of ornament. The font in the N. transept
dates from 1453 and the * pulpit, richly decorated with sculpture,
from 1486. The Chapel of St. John (to the 1. by the choir)
contains a monument to Bishop Conrad of Lichtenbergy under
whose auspices the construction of the facade began. The
Chapel of St. Mary (S. aisle) contains a sculpture representing
the interment of the Virgin, executed in 1480.

The celebrated astronomical * Clock, constructed by Schwilgu^

in 1838 — 1842 in the S. transept, is a highly carious and

ingenious piece of workmanship. Some paintings and portions

of the old clock have been used in the erection of the

new.

The globe beneath nhows the course of the iitars, behind it is n perpetual
almanac, on the I. a piece of mechanism exhibiting ecclesiastical reckoning
of time, and on the r. the geocentric opposition and conjunction of the sun
and moon; above it is a dial determining the intervening time, and still
higher is shown the course of the moon through the heavens. The exterior
of the clock attracts spectators at all times, but especially at noon. On the
first gallery an angel strikes the quarters on a bell which he holds in his
hand; higher up is a skeleton, representing time, which strikes the hour
of 12, and round it are figures which strike the quarters and represent man's
progress through the various stages of boyhood, youth, manhood and old
age. Under the first gallery the symbolic deity of each day of the week steps
ont of a niche, Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Monday, and so on. In the
highest niche the 12 apostles move round a figure of the Saviour, bowing as
they pass. On the highest pinnacle of the side-tower is perched a cock which
flaps its wings, stretches its neck and crows, awakening the echoes of the
remotest nooks of the cathedral.

Two old inscriptions on a pillar near the clock com*
momorate the zeal and piety of Johann Geiler of Kaisersberg
(d. 1510), one of the most learned men and undaunted preachers
of his time.

220 Houte 54. STRASBURG. Cathedral- Tower,

On the Romanesque S. * Portal were erected, in 1840, statues
of the great architect Erwin and his talented daughter Sahina.
The sculpturing on this portal by the latter has been skilfully
renovated and deserves the minutest inspection. Above the
doors is represented the death, interment, resurrection and
coronation of the Virgin, and on the middle pillar the Saviour
and king Solomon. Beneath is Solomon^s Judgment, and on
the r. and 1. figures emblematical of Christianity and Judaism.
There are also several statues by Sabina on pillars in the S.
aisle next to the transept.

On the N. side is the Chapel of St. Laurentius with its
beautiful gateway of the 15th cent., adorned with restored
sculptures of the martyrdom of the saints.

The * Catliedral-Tower rises in front of the structure to
such a height that the spectator almost feels dizzy as bis
eye attempts to reach so vast an altitude. Kear the r, hand
Portal, round the corner, is a door leading to a staircase of
easy ascent. A few steps up, the custodian dwells, from whom
a ticket ^15 cent.) must be procured. The visitor then ascends
330 steps to the platform, 230 ft. above the street, which
commands a fine view of the old-fashioned town with its
planted ramparts and promenades. To the 1. is seen the Black
Forest from Baden to the Blauen; on the W. and N. the entire
chain of the Yosges, and on the S. the insulated Kaiserstuhl
(p. 253), rising from the plain, and beyond it in the extreme
distance rises the magnificent chain of the Jura. The services
of the door-keeper are unnecessary in ascending to the plat-
form, though a fee is generally expected. From the platform
another staircase leads to the summit of the spire, the so-called
^^LaniernJ*^ The entrance to it is closed by an iron grating,
which is not opened to the visitor without a special permission
from the mayor.

The ancient residence of the Bishops, opposite to the S.
Portal of the Cathedral, with terrace facing the 111, was pur-
chased by the town at the period of the Revolution and pre-
sented in 1806 to Napoleon. From 1814—1848 it served as
a royal residence, and in 1853 was presented to Napoleon III.

From the cathedral the attention of the traveller is next
directed to the Church of St. Thomas. His way leads across
the Place Gutenberg, where a handsome bronze Statue was
erected in 1840 to the memory of the great printer w^ho con-
ducted his first experiments in the newly-discovered art at
Strasburg in 1436. The four bas-reliefs are emblematical of
the power and blessing of the invention of printing in the
four quarters of the globe, and comprise likenesses of many
celebrated men.

St, Thomas. STRASBURG. 54. Route. 221

The * Church of St. Thomas (PI. 10; the sacristan Lives
at the back of the choir) was founded in 1031; the choir, of
plain Gothic construction, was commenced in 1270, and the
main-body of the church with its five aisles was erected in
the Gothic style in 1313 — 1330. It is now appropriated to
the use of a Protestant congregation. The choir where the
high-altar formerly stood contains a magnificent monument in
marble, erected by Louis XV. to Marshal Saxe; it is the work
of the sculptor Pigalle, and the result of twenty years' labour.
The marshal is represented descending into the tomb held
open to receive him by Death, while a beautiful female figure
personifying France strives to detain him ; at the side Hercules
is represented in a mournful attitude leaning upon his club; on
the 1. side are the Austrian eagle, the Dutch lion and the
English leopard , with broken flags beneath them , comme-
morating the victories gained by the marshal over the three
united powers in the Flemish wars. The whole is an allegory
in accordance with the questionable taste of the age, but as
a work of art it is masterly and original.

The church also contains basts and monuments of celebrated
professors of the University of Strasbnrg, among others of
Schopflin, Koch and Oberlin, brother of the well-known pastor
of that name. In a side-chapel may be seen two mummies, found
in 1802, and said to be the bodies of a Count of Nassau-Saar-
brucken and his daughter, who probably died in the 16th cent.

The New Church {Temple neuf, PL 11) which belongs to
the 16th cent., once the property of the Dominicans, now
appropriated to the Protestant service, contains the tombstone
of the celebrated Dominican Job. Tauler (d. 1361) and some
curious old frescoes of a death-dance, probably of the 14th
or 15th cent.

Near the New Church is the Town Library (PI. 15) which
possesses a rich collection of curious ancient works and do-
cuments. In the entrance-hall some Roman and other antiquities
are to be seen.

The square called the Broglie, after a marshal of that name,
is bounded on the N.E. by the Theatre (PI. 37), completed
in 1821, with a Portico adorned with statues of 6 of the Muses.
Representations in French only, on Sund., Tues., Thurs. and Frid.

Opposite to the theatre on the r. are the residences of the
prefect of the town and the general of the troops garrisoned
here. The Statue (PI. 38) of the Marquis de Lezay-Marnesia,
by Grags, was erected in 1857. Farther on is the Town-hall
(PI. 26, entrance from the Rue brulee) which contains a small
collection of pictures open on Sund., Tues. and Thurs. from
2 to 4; at other times on payment of a fee of 1 fr.

222 Route 54. STRASBURG. Artillery Barracks.

The Rue hrulee, which runs in a S JJ. direction parallel with
the Brog]ie, has received its appellation from the circumstance
of 2000 Jews, who refused to be baptized, having been burned,
Feb. 14th, 1349, on the spot where the Hotel de la Prefecture
now stands.

The University, inaugurated in 1621, once numbered Goethe
among its students; it was here that the great poet and scholar
completed his law studies and took the degree of doctor in 1772.
It is now converted into an Academy^ and deserves a visit on
account of its Museum of natural history, a collection of more
than ordinary value and interest. It is open to the public on
Thurs. from 2 to 4, and on Sund. from 10 to 12; at other
times adm. may be procured for a fee of 1 fr.

On the Place d*Armes (Parade-Platz) is erected a bronze
Statue to the memory of General Kleber, at the foot of which
reclines an Egyptian sphynx, and on the sides are two reliefs.
The Cafe Cade is on the N.W. side of the Place, next to the
Guard-house.

The Kekl railway-station is about 4 M. distant from Stras-
burg, and connected vfith it by a junction line lately completed.
In the immediate vicinity of the Porte d*Austerlitz are the
spacious Artillery Barracks (St. Nicholas) and near them
the Arsenal de construction, one of the largest depots of am*
munition in France.

A few minutes after leaving the town by this gate the
traveller passes the Cemetery and catches a glimpse of the green
ramparts of the Citadel, constructed byVauban in 1682 — 1684,
which lies to the 1. of the road. On the other side of the
bridge over a branch of the Rhine stands a Monument erected
by Napoleon to the memory of General Desaix, who fell in
the battle of Marengo in 1800.

Junction line to Kehl see p. 217; fares 1 fr., 70 and 50 c.

66. From Strasburg to Mayence.

Comp. Maps to the R.R, 52 and 45,

By Railway ia b*/^ — S hrs. Fares to Weisseoburg 6 fr. 55, 4 fr. 5 and
2 fr. 65 c. ; from Weissenburg to Mayence 6 11. 27, 3 fl. 51 and 2 11. 33 kr.

Through-passengers by exp. tram are exempt from the visite of pass-
ports and luggage. Travellers unacquainted -with the r. bank of the Rhine
should select the Baden line.

At Wendenheim this line diverges from the Paris railway,
and taking a N.E. direction, crosses the Zorn at the Hordt
station. The country is flat; on the r. in the distance are
the mountains of the Black Forest from the Hornisgrinde
(R. 63. a.) to below Baden. Station Bischweiler, cloth factories,
and in the neighbourhood hop-gardens.

LANDAU. 55. Route, 223

After passing Marientkal, where up to 1789 there was a
convent, the town of Hag^nau {Post; Blume; Wilder Mann)
is reached. It was formerly a free town of the German empire,
and part of the walls and fortifications, erected by Frederick
Barbarossa in 1164, still exist. The lofty church of St. George
belongs partly to the 13th cent. The large building on the
N. side is the prison.

The train next traverses the Hagenauer IVald, and after
passing some smaller stations arrives at Weissenburg (Ange)y.
where the passengers by ordinary trains must change carriages.
Here the Bavarian branch commences.

At Weissenburg the line traverses the now fallen intrench-
ments, called the IVeissenburger lAnien, constructed by Marshal
Villars in 1705, during the Spanish war of Succession, and
extending on the r. bank of the Lauter to Lauterburg near
the Rhine. The Lauter and the Bavarian frontier are next
crossed.

The next station of importance is I^andau {*P/dlzer Ho/;
Sekwan), a fortress of the German Confederation, with a pop.
of 7000 (Vs Prot.), and a garrison of 4500 Bavarians. Landan
has long been a fortified town; it was seven times besieged
and captured in the 30 Years' war, seized in 1680 by Louis XIV.,.
regularly fortified by Vauban in 1686, changed hands several
times between 1702 and 1713, and was under the French
dominion from the peace of Rastadt (1714) till 1814. Above
the town-gates are suns (that over the French gate wears ft
pleasant expression, while that over the German has an angry
look), above which may be read the vain inscription of
Louis XIV., "-ATiec plurihus impar.'* An omnibus runs from the
station to Gleisweiler (p. 193) in 1 hr., and twice daily to
Annweiler (p. 194).

The train next crosses the Queich^ the ancient frontier
between Alsace and the Palatinate, and the boundary between
the Vosges and the Haardt Mountains.

Bdenkoben (*Schaaf, good, R. and B. 1 fl.), the next place
of consequence, is a cheerful little town which boasts of a
sulphur spring, a grape-cure establishment, and, in the back-
gronnd, a royal villa, the Ludwigshohe (p. 193). On an eminence
at the foot of the Kalmit (2097 ft.) are situated the ruins of
the Kropsburg, formerly a nobleman's castle, now occupied by
several poor families.

On a hill to the 1. of the next stat. Maikammer lies the
handsome and imposing castle of *Maxburg, property of the
King of Bavaria. The ruins, out of which the new structure
was erected, were of vast extent, and some Roman remains
discovered on the spot lead to the supposition that one of the

224 Route 55, NEUSTADT. From Strasburg

Roman castra stativa was here stationed to command Upper
Germany. The old castle is said to have been built by the
£mperor Henry II., but fell into the hands of the bishops of
Speyer as early as 1100. In an insurrection of the peasantry
in 1525 it was stormed and demolished by the insurgents,
who, however, were subsequently compelled to rebuild it at
their own expense. In 1552 it was burned by the Margrave
Albert of Brandenburg, but for its complete destruction it
was indebted, like most of the castles in the Palatinate, to
the *'most christian" king Louis XIV.

Keustadt {*Lowe, at the station, R. 54, B. 24, D. 48,
A. 18 kr.; *Sckiff; * Krone) is the largest town in the Haardt.
The handsome Gothic church, erected in the middle of the
14th cent., the choir of which serves as a place of worship
for the Rom. Catholics and the nave for the Protestants, contains
several monuments of the Counts Palatine, the founders of
the town. The gutters on the roof terminate in heads of apes,
pigs, geese, &c., and are called by the inhabitants HoUenkinder
(children of hell). The Rom. Cath. Church of St Ludwig^ a hand-
some Gothic structure, was consecrated in 1862. From the
*Schte8shau8, ^/^ M. from the station , a fine prospect of the
environs may be enjoyed. On the height, 1 M. to the N.,
are situated the ruins of Rurg Winzingen (p. 192); lYj M.
farther the Wolfshurg^ commanding a pleasing prospect. An
agreeable excursion of half a day may be made to MUtel-Hani'
bach by carriage (1-horse 4 fl.), thence to the Maxburg on
foot, and back; from Mittel-Hambach to the villa of Ludwigs-
hohe near Rhodt, to the watering-place Gleisweiler (p. 193), and
back to Neustadt.

Neustadt is the junction of the Maximilian, Ludwig and
Bexbach (Saarbrucken) lines, and is a favorite resort of in-
valids undergoing the grape-cure.

The Ludwig-railway here turns £. and enters the great
plain of the Rhine, where vineyards, tobacco and corn fields
are extended before the traveller's eye.

Ludwigshafen {^Deutsches Haus, R. 36 kr., B. 24 kr.,
D. inc. W. 1 fl. ; Hotel Wolff; Railway refreshment-room; good
beer at Pschorr^s), formerly the tete-de-pont of the old fortress
of Mannheim, scene of many a bloody contest during the
revolution, and, as late as 1849, cannonaded from Mannheim
by Baden insurgents, is a town of very recent construction,
having been founded in 1843, but has already attained to
considerable commercial importance. The wharf is one of the
best on the Rhine, and is lined with long rows of warehouses
and magazines connected with the railway by tram-ways.
Mannheim on the opposite side of the river, see R. 44.

to Mayence. OPPENHEIM. 55. Route. 225

At the next stat. Oggemkeim there is an extensive plush
manufactory, after which the train passes the flourishing little
town of Frankenthal {Hotel Otto), founded hy Calvinists from
the Netherlands, driven out of their country by the Spaniards
in 1554, and who, on account of religious differences, emigrated
from Frankfurt to this place in 1562. The town is connected
by a canal (constructed 1777) with the Rhine, which is 3 M.
distant. — Omnibus to Durkheim (p. 190) in 2 Va hrs.

Near Womui (p. 198) the line crosses the Bavarian-Hessian
frontier, and afterwards passes close to the Cemetery^ in which
a tombstone surmounted by a helmet is a conspicuous object —
one of the monuments erected in 1848 to veterans of Napoleon,
which are so frequently met with in the churchyards of the
larger towns on the 1. bank of the Rhine,

In the distance to the I. is situated Hemsheim, with the white castle of
the Dalbergs, one of the oldest and most respected families in the time of
the German Empire. The buildings, grounds and church of Hernsheim are
worth a visit. In the latter many members of the above-mentioned family
repose, among others the prince-primate Carl von Dalberg, once Grand-duke
of Frankfurt (d. 1817), and Emmerich Joseph von Dalberg (d. 1833), the
ambassador of Baden in Paris, created Duke by Napoleon for his services
in furthering the emperor's alliance with Marie Louise.

Ountersbliun (Krone), a small town belonging to the Count
of Leiningen, possesses a venerable church with helmeted towers,
a large Town-hall, and on the N. side a palace and grounds of
the Count. In the great plain between Guntersbium and Oppen-
heim the election of the Emperor Conrad II. took place in 1024.

Near Oppenheim (Ritter), the ancient Bonconica, the line
traverses vine-clad hills. The red church of St Catherine on
the hill is a striking object; near it is the gloomy-looking
Castle of Landskron, This very ancient town became a portion
of the Rhenish Confederation in the 12th cent ; in 1689 it was,
with the exception of one house, burned to the ground by
the French. The W. choir (1439) of *St. CatheHne'a Church
was also destroyed;, but the £. portion, which dates from the
13th cent was spared. It was restored in 1838—43, and is
now a remarkably fine Gothic structure. A charnel-house on
the N. side of the churchyard contains numerous bones of
Spaniards and Swedes killed in the 30 Years' war. In many of
the skulls the holes made by the bullets may be seen. The
sexton (fee 12 kr.) lives up the stair on the 1. of the S. entrance.

The Landakron, connected with the town by a wall, is all
that remains of a once famous Imperial stronghold of that
name. It was constructed by the Emperor Lothar, and restored
by the Emperor Ruprecht, who died here in 1410. Subterranean
passages connect it with the town. The top commands a
good view of the plain of the Rhine, N.E. the Taunus, S.E.
Melibocus and the mountains of the Bergstrasse.
Baedbkse's Rhine. 15

226 Route 55. NIERSTEIN.

The two modem towers which rise from among the ruins,
the one serving as a clock- tower, the other erected hy a-
private individual, have a curious effect.

Nierstein (* Anker) is distinguished for the careful culture-
of its vineyards. The Ki*c^n vines planted on a red soil have-
a very picturesque effect. The wine yielded by them is-
reckoned among those of the Khine, while that of Oppenhein>
belongs to the Palatinate wines. The chapel of the family ro»
Herding is embellished with frescoes of some merit by Gotzen-
berger. On the height to the 1. rises an ancient watch-tower.

On a chain of low, productive, vine-clads hills to the 1. Ii&
the villages of Nackenhetnif Bodenheim, and Laubenheim, and
near Mayence (see R. 35) the handsome village of IVeissenau,.
which forms a part of the fortifications of that town.

66. From Strasbtirg to B&le.

Comp. Maps to RR. 52 and 62.

Alsace Railway. By express in 3 '/a. by ordinary trains in 5 — 6 hrs. ;
fares: 15 fr. 80, 11 fr. 85 y 7 fr. 80c. Railway or Paria time is 22 min.
behind Bdle and Strasburg time. Second-class carriages generally bad.
View on the W. side only. Refreshment - room on the line at Colmar not
good. Return-tickets are now issued between Cologne and Colmar (valid for
5 days), and between Cologne and Muhlhausen, B41e and the other Swiss-
stations (valid for one month).

A peculiar kind of wine Q^strato wine") is made in Alsace from the
finest grapes which are kept in straw through the winter till March, when
they are picked and pressed. The price varies from ft to 10 fr. per bottle.

The banks of the Rhine between Bonn and Bingen are
scarcely richer in ruined castles than these eastern slopes of
the Vosges. The railway is so far distant from the hills that
the mere outlines only are visible; there are, however, se-
veral fine points of view, especially between Schlettstadt and
Colmar.

The population of nAlsace clearly betrays its German origin,
and, though the French language gains ground in the larger
towns and is the language of the upper classes, that of the-
country-people is still German, and to many of them French
is totally unintelligible. Sermons and school -instruction are
German, and will probably continue so for many years, though
there are few children who do not possess some acquaintance
with the French tongue.

Soon after Strasburg is left, the junction line to KehF
and the Baden railway diverges to the 1. at Konigsho/en. After
traversing a broad fertile plain which yields abundant crops of
tobacco, and passing a succession of unimportant stations, the
train approaches the mountains.

SCHLETTSTADT. 56. Route, 227

Schlettstadt (Bock), once a free German town, was taken
by the French and fortified by Vauban. Over the ramparts
peeps the red-sandstone tower of the Munster, founded by the
Hohenstaufen in 1094.

At the entrance of the Leberthal is situated the castle of
KiMheim; near stat. Orsckweiler is another rained castle, and
on a detached peak of the Vosges, before stat. St, Hippolyte
(p. 232) is reached, rise the ruins of the Hohkonigshurg,

Kappoltsweiler (called '^Rappschwier" by the inhabitants),
the French RiheauviUe {Lamm), is a manufacturing town with
8000 inhabitants, and lies 3 M. from the station at the en-
trance of a beautiful valley and at the foot of vine-clad hills.
High above the town on a rugged precipice is perched the
castle of Hoken-Rappoltstein, with lofty tower; lower are the
ruins of Niederburg, or St, Ulrich, celebrated for its tasteful
architecture, and Girsbery, or "2)er Stein'*, remarkable for the
boldness of its situation. The castle of St. Ulrich well merits
a visit on account of the fine views it affords.

At the entrance of the valley of the Weiss^ 4'/2 M. to the r. of the rall-
ivay, lies the small town of KuMrtberg i* Krone), with a castle of the same
name, destroyed during the 30 Years' war. The town was founded in the
first half of the I3th cent, by the emp. Frederick II. of the house of the
Hohenstaufen, who were at the same time dukes of Swabia and Alsace. The
Church belongs to the same period, and contains some ancient wood-carving,
an Entombment and an altar-piece of some merit,

Colxnar (Trots Rois; Clef) was once a free German town
and in 1474 so powerful that the inhabitants refused to open
the gates to Charles the Bold, who, by a treaty with the
Archduke of Austria, had become master of Alsace, the Sund-
gau and the Breisgau, and was then on his way to the siege
of Neuss (p. 39). It has now a pop. of 22,000 and is the
capital of the Department of the Upper Rhine and seat of the
Cour imperiale. The most considerable building is the Munster,
founded in 1360, but still incomplete.

The environs of Colmar possess some historical interest;
here Louis the Pious fell into the hands of his degenerate
sons, who, after holding a deliberation at Colmar (then only
a farm-house), lured the army of Louis to the "red field,"
where the latter was defeated and taken by his son Lothaire
to a monastery at Soissons.

Omnibus to Breisach and Freiburg see p. 244.

The castle of Sohenlandsberg , situated on a well -wooded
height, the most extensive mountain -fortress of Alsace, was
destroyed by the French in 1635. Near stat Egisheim are
seen three ruined castles of the 10th and 11th centuries,
termed the ''Three Exen," i. e. the castle of Hohen- or Dreten-
Egisheim, with the towers of Dagsburg, Wahlenburg and Wek-

lb*

228 Route 56, RUFFACH.

mund, birthplace of Pope Leo IX., who was a count of Egis-
beim and Dagsburg.

Riiffach (Ours), the Rubeacum of the Romans, is built
round the castle of Isenburg, one of the oldest in Alsace and
frequently the seat of the Merovingian kings of France. The
Church of St. Arbogast belongs to the end of the 12th cent.

To the r. are situated the industrial towns of Gebweiler

and Sultz, overtopped by the Gebweiler Belchen {Ballon de

Guebwiller, 4417 ft.), the highest peak of the Vosges, the

summit of which commands a magnificent view. Beyond stat.

Bolweiler the picturesque and rocky slopes of the Vosges

gradually disappear.

From Lutterback a branch-line diverges to niaan {L6we\ Krone) ^ a
manufacturing town "with 4000 inhab., situated at the entrance ot the romantic
valley of St. Amarin (p, 234). The * Church of St. Theobald (1445), with its
bold open-work tower (1516), is a remarkably elegant Gothic structure. The
most striking view of it is obtained from the Engelburg (demolished by
Turenne in 1674), which commands the town and the mouth of the valley,
and whose tower, overturned bodily, lies prostrate like a giant cask. The
interior of the church contains some good carving, statues and fine stained-
glass windows rescued from the ravages of the first French revolution.

At Dornach the Thur, the boundary between Alsace and
the Sundgau, is crossed, and near Muhlhausen the Rhine-Rhone
Canal.

MUliIhatisexi (Ville de Paris; Lion Rouge; Cicogne) in
the Sundgau y formerly a free town of the German Empire,
from 1515 to 1798 in alliance with Switzerland, and since then
belonging to France, is the most considerable manufacturing
town of the Upper Rhine, and has a population of 30,000, to
which may be added about 7000 workmen who come daily
from the neighbouring villages. The situation of Muhlhausen
on the Rhine-Rhone Canal is very advantageous. Its ancient
architectural remains have given place to manufactories, and
the antiquarian will find but few objects of attraction in the
town, with the exception perhaps of the Town -hall, erected
in 1551 and restored in 1846, which contains some tolerable
frescoes. Another relic of olden times is the picturesque
house with projecting tower which adjoins the Town -hall.
At the entrance to the town from the Railway station are
the handsome new buildings and halls belonging to the
^^Societe commerciale^\ containing a scientific and industrial
museum. At Muhlhausen a line diverges to the W. to Bel-
ford, whence one branch goes direct to Paris, and another
to Besanpon, Dijon and Lyons.

To the 1. the Blauen (p. 247) stands out conspicuously
from the Black Forest. The train now skirts a succession of
vine-clad hills, and passes stat. Rixheim. To the 1. of St.
Louis, the seat of the French custum-house authorities, rises

Vosges. ZABERN. 57. Route. 229

the ancient fortress of ffuningen, constructed by Vauban under
Louis XIV. (1679), and demolished by the Austrians in 1815.
The •red open-work towers of the cathedral of Bale now come
in sight.

57. The Vosges. Northern part.

From Strasburg to Saarburg.

Paris Railway. To Zabern in Ihr.; fares 4, 3 and 2 fr. The 1st class
carnages are srarcely equal in comfort to those of the 3nd class on the Baden
line. Station and conveyances see p. 218.

At Wendenheim, the first station, the line diverges from
the 1. bank of the Rhine. After passing several unimportant
places, the rocky heights and ruined castle of Hoh-Barr
appear on the 1.; near them the slender tower of Geroldseck,
and to the r. the ruin of Grei/enstein.

Zabern or Saverne {* Sonne), the Tabernce of the Romans,
afterwards the capital of the Wasgan, is now a quiet little
town with about 6400 inhabitants. Long before entering the
town the stately Schioss is a conspicuous object. It was
erected in 1667 by a bishop of Strasburg, afterwards inha-
bited by the Cardinal de Rohan, also Bishop of Strasburg,
the calumniator of Marie Antoinette in the well-known and
mysterious affair of the necklace. By an imperial decree of
1852 the building is now appropiated to the use of the wi-
dows and daughters of members of the Legion of Honor.
In front of this building stands an Obelisk erected in 1666,
which records the distances (in German miles) from Saverne
of upwards of 100 different towns.

Near the station, on the road to the town, a pretty figure
of ^^Hora" has been erected over a fountain, with a tablet
on which the day of the month is daily inscribed by order
of the police. The road to the hotel crosses the Rhine-
Marne-Canal. According to an old historian, the town was
in 1550 surrounded by a wall with ''as many towers as
there are weeks in the year", but these have long since
disappeared, and the spot has nothing to recommend it as a
halting-place.

Above the town rises the tower of the old stronghold of
Grei/enstein^ and near it is the Grotto of St. Veit, a chapel
and hermitage constructed in a large cave of sandstone, and
a favorite resort of pilgrims. On the other side of the moun-
tain, situated on a wooded eminence, are the extensive ruins
of the castle of *Hoh-Barr, which appears to form a portion
of the variegated sandstone and conglomerate rocks on which

230 Route 57. LtJTZELBURG. Vo8ges.

it stands. An inscription over the gate records tbat the castle
was restored by Count Manderscheid-Blankenheim, Bishop of
Strasburg, in 1583. As late as 1744, during the war of
succession, the castle was still habitable, but it has sub-
sequently completely fallen to decay, and is occupied by a
forester, from whom refreshments may be procured. By means
of a ladder the venturesome traveller may clamber to the top
of huge and otherwise inaccessible rocks, which command a
view of the plain of Strasburg as far as the Black Forest,
and a part of the Vosges.

The railway here traverses the chain of the Vosges at the
narrowest part; near Saverne it penetrates into the narrow
and picturesque valley of the Zorn^ through which the high-
road, the railway, the Marne-Canal and the brook itself run
side by side. The train passes bridges, high embankments,
viaducts and tunnels in rapid succession between Saverne
and Saarburg.

LtLtzelburg (*Je8pere near the station, good beer), the
only station between Saverne and Saarburg, is the first
Lothringian village in the Meurthe Department, and prettily
situated. On the opposite side of the brook, on a projecting
rock, rises the Lutzelstein , or Castle of Lutzelburg , fortified
up to the beginning of the last century; beneath it is the
railway tunnel.

The line now leaves the valley of the Zorn. A handsome
bridge spans the stream which descends from a valley on
the 1., and a second arch crosses the Rkine-Marne- Canal,
which here passes over to the r. side of the valley, but soon
rejoins the line at the remarkable tunnel of Ertzweiler (Arch-
wilier), upwards of 1 '/j M. in length, by means of which both
the canal and the railway penetrate the mountain. At the E.
extremity the line lies immediately under the canal, but at
the W., it runs by the side of it. The vast fertile plains of
Lothringia now lie stretched before the traveller.

Scuurburg {* Hotel du Sauvage) on the Saar, which here
becomes navigable, is a small town enclosed with walls and
gates (not to be confounded with Saarburg near Treves, in
the Prussian dominions). It forms the boundary between the
two languages, French being spoken in the upper part of the
town and principally German in the lower. The names above
the shops are chiefly German. The ancient fortifications
were dismantled in 1552 by the Margrave Albert of Branden-
denburg. The place would become one of the utmost im-
portance in case of a war on the Rhine, and has in con-
sequence been provided with extensive provision magazines.
(Railway to Paris in 10 hrs.)

Vosges, SAARBURG, 57. Route. 231

The following excursion through the Vosges will well
repay the pedestrian; it should not however be undertaken
without a guide (Paul Zuber at Saverue can be recommended,
fee 3 fr.)- From Saverne an ascent of '/^ hr. to Hoh-Barr
(p. 229), then the descent through Hager to Haberacker (in
% hr.), where refreshments may be obtained at the Forester's
house. The ruin of Ochsenstein, above the latter, was till 1789
the property of the Landgraves of Hessen-Darmstadt.

The path now lies through forest, past some houses called
<in der Haardt (3 M.), to the Chapel auf der Hueh (P/j M.),
ihen ly, M. down a steep declivity into a narrow grassy
valley, after which the ascent again commences; in y^ hr.
more a cross is reached, where the path to the 1. must be
taken, which in about 20 min. conducts the traveller to the
Dachsburg, The castle which formerly stood on this high
and solitary rock, which commands a fine view, was destroyed
by the French in 1675, and almost all traces of it have
vanished, with the exception of the Chapel. In the wood
may still be seen some remains of Roman fortifications,
where as the spot is but rarely visited, Roman relics are still
frequently found.

At the foot of the rock lies the village of Dachsburg,
called Dabo by the French. Belated travellers had better
apply to the clergyman for a night's lodging, as the inns
are bad.

The road to Lutzelburg now leads past Schae/ershof (3 M.),
and at the Neumiihl (ly, M.) it enters the beautiful dale of
the Zorn bounded by well-wooded mountains. In the middle
of the valley are several mills (lyj M.), the way to which is
indicated by a cross, and which afford better accommodation
than the wretched inns of Dachsburg. One mile farther the
railway bridge already mentioned (p. 230) is reached, and
2 M. beyond it Liitzelburg. The finest points of this ex-
cursion are the Hoh-Barr, and the valley of the Zorn from
Neumuhl to Lutzelburg.

58. The Vosges. Southern part.

Four days suffice for a hasty glance at the Vosges Mountains. This
period may be most advantageously allotted as follows, the traveller taking
the last train but one from Strasburg to St. Hippolyte, which is assumed
as the starting point. 1st day: Hohkonigshurg ^ Markirch , Rappoltiweiler
(24 M.). 2nd day: Along the' vine-clad slopes to Kaisernberg (6% M.): pass
Afternoon in exploring the town and its environs; in the evening proceed to
Orbey (6V« M.). 3d day: Lao blanCj JUisberg, Munster, Metzeral (2IV4M.).
4th day : Over the Herrenberg to Wildenstein , through the beautiful valley
of St. Amarin to the village of the same name (21 M.). On the following
morning omnibus to Thann in 1 hr. These foar days enable the pedestrian

232 Route 58. ST. HIPPOLYTE. Vosges.

to tnspeet the moat beautiful points of these magiiificent highlands, generally
but too seldom visited. The unfrequency of the inroads made by travellera
upon this district may constitute, in the eyes of some, not one of its least
considerable charms.

From Strftsburg to St Hippolyte in 1^4 ^r.

From the station of Benfeld an omnibus runs three times a day to BarVy
whence the *OttiUenberf or Kont Bto-Odile (2466 ft.), mentioned by Goethe
in his biography, may be ascended in '2Vs hrs. Guide unnecessary, as the
path is furnished with direction-posts.

St. Hippolyte (iTroite), a small and old fashioned towHy
about 2y2 M. from the station, lies at the foot of the moun-
tain crowned by the Hoh-Konigsburg. Of the four roads
leading from the S. W. gate of the town, that in the direction
of the castle is the one to be selected; it leads at Urst
through vineyards; % M. higher the traveller must turn to
the 1.; after another mile the road passes a chestnut- wood^
where the real ascent commences; in 10 min. the Lower
Forester's House is reached; a steep ascent of another mile
brings the pedestrian to the Upper Forester* s House ^ where
refreshments may be procured; in 20 min. more the summit
is reached.

The *HolL-K5nig8biirs^, which stands at a height of
1700 ft. above the level of the sea, is, after the castle of
Heidelberg, the largest German fortress of the middle ages.
Its huge walls of red sandstone towering above the green
of the chestnut-wood present a most picturesque appearance.
Nothing certain is known of its origin, but it has evidently
been the result of the labour of many centuries. The lions
over the principal entrance are the arms of the House of
Hohenstaufen.

As early as the year 1462 the castle was partially destroyed
by the Bishop of Strasburg and the Archduke of Austria,
on account of depredations committed by the count; it was
afterwards restored, but was burned by the Swedes in 1633.
Since then Ibis once magnificent pile has been a ruin, and
with the surrounding woods and fields is now the property
of a banker at Colmar.

The footpath to the entrance leads round the castle to
the r., and from it a correct idea of the extent of the ruin
can best be formed. From the platform of the S. W. round
tower (to which a footpath to the 1. leads) the most extensive
prospect may be enjoyed; far beneath is the LebertkcU; on
the opposite hill -side the Frankenburg; and the wide and
populous plain of the Rhine is seen stretching on the £. to
the mountains of the Black Forest and the Kaiserstuhi, and
on the W. to the Vosges. In clear weather the snow -clad
peaks of the Bernese Alps are sometimes visible; if seen very

Vosges. MARKIRCH. 58, Route. 233

distinctly, It is a sign of rainy weather. Neither the road
from St. Hippolyte to the Hoh-Konigsburg, nor that from
the castle to the Leberthal can well be missed; travellers
wishing to return by the latter must take the path to the r.,
about Y2 M. after passing the Upper Forester's house, which
will bring them to the high rv)ad; 3 M. farther is the Leber-
thal, an industrial, as well as picturesque and well -wooded
valley watered by the Leber {Liepvre). An hour's walk up
the valley then takes the traveller past Leberau (Liepvre) to
Heilig-Kreuz or Ste. Croix-aux-minea (good beer at Schmidf8)y
both busy, animated villages ; 2 M. farther Markirch, or ^^e.
Marie-avx- minen {Hotel du Commerce) , the principal town of
the valley (pop. 12,000) is reached.

From Markirch a good high-road leads across the Bladen-
berg or Bressoir (3840 ft.) to Rappoltsweiler, a distance of
about 10 M. About Va M. from Markirch the traveller may
effect a considerable saving by taking the old road, which
diverges from the new at a house on the road-side to the 1.,
and leads by a row of cherry-trees and through a narrow
lane, till it rejoins the high-road about lYj M. farther on.
The view looking back on the Leberthal is picturesque, but
on ascending it disappears. Near the top is a stone with
coat of arms and date 1779, beyond which the road runs
through the wood almost the whole way to BAppoltsweiler
(sec p. 227). The road from here to Kaisersberg (6 M.) leads
through the vineyards on the hill-side to Hunaweier, 1^/2 M.
farther to Reichenweier or Riquevihr (* Krone, excellent wine),
and thence to Kaisersberg^.

From Kaisersberg the traveller next turns his steps W.
to Hachimette, ^y^ M* ^P *^® broad valley of the Weiss. Five
min. after passing the last-named village, the path diverges
to the 1. to Orbey (2 M.) {Croix d*Or, above the Church), a
French mountain village, where the night may be passed. A
coach runs every morning to Kaisersberg and Colmar (p. 227)>
returning in the evening.

About 6 M. to the W. of Orbey, near the summit of the
granite-ridge which forms the boundary between the Wasgau
and Lothringia, are situated two mountain lakes, the *Lac
blanc and the Lac noir. The former, which derives its name
from the quartz at its bottom, is about 3 M. in circumference,
and is enclosed on two sides by high and precipitous walls
of rock, and on a third by immense fragments of granite
lying in a confused mass. The Lac noir, of about half the
size, lies % M. farther to the S. It probably owes its ap-
pellation to the blackish sand of its banks or to the dark fir-
wood by which it is surrounded. Both lakes are drained by

'234 Route 58, REISBERG. Vosges,

the Weiss, which, united with the Fecht, falls into the III
below Coliuar. The gullies in which the lakes are situated are
frequently partially covered with snow the whole year round.

On the W. side of the Lac blanc rises perpendicularly a
buge wall of granite, the ^Beisberg (3160 ft.), the summit
of which may be reached from the lake in ^/^ hr. Here the
traveller is rewarded by a most extensive and magnificent
view; before him lie Lothringia and a great part of the
Vosges, the Black Forest and the entire plain of the Rhine.
Farther S. a portion of the Munsterthal is visible, in the
foreground the Lac noir, and in the distance the Alps. The
way from Orbey is not diificult to find, but it is advisable to
take a guide and a supply of provisions, as these desolate
heights can boast of no inn. From the top of the Reisberg
to Les'hautes-huttes is a distance of about 3 M.

Travellers who do not care to visit the above-mentioned
lakes and the Reisberg can walk direct from Orbey to Munster
(12 M.). The path first ascends through beautiful well-watered
meadows to Les-basses-hutfes (3 M.); here it diverges to the
r., by a house, across a small bridge towards a round hill;
^4 M. farther the path again turns to the r. , ascends, then
runs across a stony moss-covered field towards a cross, and
finally leads to a house surrounded by fir wood (Les-hautes-
huftes); a short way beyond this, another cross stands at the
summit of the ridge, which is nearly half-way between Orbey
and Munster. From this point a good view of the Reisberg,
and the granite walls of the Lac blanc, which seem quite
near, is obtained.

The S. slope of the ridge, which the pedestrian now
descends, is barren and stony, and forms a striking contrast
to the N. side. Towards SuUzeren (good beer at Jackele^s),
liowever, the valley is more attractive; Y4 M. farther is
Stossweiefy and about 2 M. beyond it Munster. The whole
walk well repays time and trouble.

MtLnster {Storck; Krone) is a busy little town of some
importance and very ancient origin, with a pop. of 4600.
It owes its origin to the Benedictine abbey built here in 660
by king Childerich. The beautiful and fertile valley in which
the town is situated is watered by the Fecht, and its inhabitants
«re principally German protestants.

A most interesting walk may be taken from Munster to
Wildenstein in the valley of St. Amarin, a distance of 14 M.
The way to the height which separates the valleys of the
Fecht and the Thur cannot well be missed, nor from this
point to Wildenstein is the road difficult to find; however,

Vosffes, WILDENSTEIN. 58, Route. 235

it is safer to take a guide from Miinster (^Yj fr.) or at all
events from Metzcral.

To Breitenbach and Metzeral the road is excellent, at the
latter place there is a tolerable inn near the bridge, opposite
to which the traveller must diverge to the r. and follow the
Talley of the Fecht for about 2 M., after which a bridge is
crossed and a good road leads in about 10 min. to the Forest-
Aouse, where refreshments may be procured.

Here the path quits the main road, and, branching off
to the r. through the Konigawald and across the Herren-
berg, follows a sort of wooden causeway made to facilitate
the process of dragging the timber down from the forest.
After a two hours' ascent through the wood, the ^^Herren-
herger Wcaser*^ at the top is at last reached, near which there
is a shepherd's hut; 1 M. beyond the latter is a second hut,
at the commencement of the W. slope of the hill, and near
it a good spring of fresh water. All trace of the path is now
entirely lost, but by descending into the wood which must be
traversed for some little distance to the right, the road will
again be reached. From the summit to Wildenstein is about
3 M. Path very rough. Pedestrians desirous of taking this
excursion in the opposite direction should not fail to take a
guide at least as far as the shepherd's hut.

Wildenstein (^ Sonne), a Tillage prettily situated in the
upper part of the St. Amarinthal (pop. German Rom. Cath.),
the most beautiful valley of the Vosges. An hour's walk
above the village, beyond the Wildenstein glass - house , the
Thur is precipitated over a rock, 30 ft. in height, forming a
waterfall termed the Bain des Payens or Heidenbad,

In the forenoon an omnibus runs from Wildenstein to
Wesserling in 1 br., but the valley is so romantic that walking
is far preferable. The road passes a small waterfall. In the
middle of the valley a precipitous and well-wooded rock rises
abruptly before the traveller; it derives its name of Schlossberg,
(Castle-mountain) from the ruined Fortress of Wildenstein, which
belonged in former times to the Abbey of Murbach, but in
the 30 Tears' war was surrendered to a French general; in
1634 it was betrayed to the Lothringian troops, and 10 years
later it fell into the hands of General von Erlach, the com-
mander of the troops of Weimar, by whom it was finally
dismantled.

From a considerable distance the zinc -covered spire of
Kriith, situated abont 3 M. from the castle, is a conspicuous
object. Abont ly^ M. farther lies the village of Oderen, pret-
tily situated on an eminence in the valley. The chapel on

236 Route. 58. WESSERIJNG. Vosges.

the £. side of the village contains a nnmber of curious
votive tablets.

The next village through which the .road leads is Felle-
ringen, and Va ^' beyond it is Wesaerling^ , picturesquely
situated on a hill. The latter is a place of recent origin,
being a colony of cotton -spinners, and in this respect one
of the most important places of the kind in France. The
beautiful grounds and handsome residences of the manufacturers
bear testimony to the productiveness of their labour.

The road here joins the coach' road to Remivemont and
Epinal. On the W. declivity of the mountain, which here
separates the Wasgau from Lothringia, on the Col de Bussang,
6 M. from Wesserling, is the source of the Moselle.

From Wesserling an omnibus runs five times a day in
ly^ hr. to the railway station of Thann, passing St. Amarin
(^Goldener Lowe), a celebrated resort of pilgrims, and the
point from which the Gebweiler Belchen is generally ascend d,
but not without a guide; descent to Gebweiler on the other
side. Thann see p. 228.

69. From Baden (or Strasbnrg) to

Freiburg.

Conyi>, Map R. 62.

fiaden Railway. From Baden 2%— 4V4 hrs. ; fares: express 5 fl. 27
and 3 fl. 42 kr. , ordinary 4 fl. 36 kr., 3 11. »> kr. aod 2 fl. — From Stras-
bourg in 2V4— 4'/i hvs. : fares: express 5 fl. 42 and 4 fl. 7 kr., ordinary trains
5 fl., 3 fl. 36 and 2 fl, 32 kr. Best views to the the I.

From Baden to Appenweier see p. 216. From Strasburg
to Appenweier see p. 217.

The main line continues to run parallel with, and at a
short distance from the mountains. In the distance to the 1.,
on a rising ground, stands the Grand-ducal castle of Stny/en-
berg, founded in the 11th cent, by Otto of Hohenstaufen,
Bishop of Strasburg, and still in a good state of preser-
vation.

Offenbxirgr {*Foriuna, R. 48 kr., B. 24 kr., D. inc. W.
at 1272 o'clock 1 fl., Durbacher wine good; * Schumrter Adler)
on the Kinzig, contains a statue, by the sculptor Friedrich, of
Sir Francis Drake, **Mc introducer of the potato into Europe,
1586." It was formerly an imperial town, and till the peace
of Pressburg, seat of government of the district of Ortenau
or Mordnau, which in ancient times belonged to the Duchy
of AUemania or Swabia, while the . Uffgau, in which Badfn-
Baden lies, was considered French- Rhenish territory. The
Breitgau adjoins the Ortenau on the S.

OFFENBURG. 59. Route. 237

After crossing the Kinzig, the train passes within sight of
the castle of Ortenberg, which lies on a hill to the 1. (see
p. 257). Dingiingen is the nearest station for the town of
liRhr {PoHt or Sonne; Krone), one of the most flourishing
commercial places in the Duchy, situated in the Schutterthal,
ly, M. from the railway.

On a high and precipitous peak, rising out of a distant
mountain ravine, stand the ruins of the castle of Hohengeroids-
eck^ destroyed by the French marshal Crequi.in 1697. By
an act of the Rhenish Confederation, the domains belonging
to the castle, though not comprising more than 45 sq. M.,
were recognised as a free state, and their possessor dignified
with the title of Prince. By the Congress of Vienna in 1815,
the Princes of Hohengeroldseck lost their independence and
became subjects of Austria, and afterwards of Baden.

Kippenkeim, the birthplace of the rich tailor Stulz (p. 212),
possesses a monument to his memory To the r. in the distance
stretches the chain of the Vosges, among which the Hoh'
konigsburg (p. 232) is a conspicuous object.

The castle of Mahlberg, on an eminence above the small
town of the same name, was, in remote times, one of the
seats of the old Baden government; in the middle ages it
belonged to the house of Hohenstaufen. The town was
founded by Conrad III. about the middle of the 12th cent.

Not far from stat. Orschweiery the village of Ettenheim lies
at the entrance of the Miinsierthal; its large old church is a
conspicuous object. This village possesses a mournful interest
as the spot where the unfortunate Due d'Enghien was seized
on the night of March 14th, 1804.

Near stat. Kemingen the line twice crosses the Elz. Above
Hecklingeny on a slight eminence, are seen the ruins of the
castle of Lichtenegg, once the seat of the Counts of Tubingen.

Near Riegel the Dreisam unites with the Elz. The entire
plain at this point was, until lately, a marsh, but the water
of the Dreisam is now drawn off by the Leopolds- Canal and
emptied into the Rhine. The isolated mountain to the r. is
the Kaiserstuhl (p. 243), raised by volcanic action, and con-
sisting principally of basalt. Its S. and E. slopes are fertile
and thickly populated.

The line now traverses the plain between the Eaiserstnhl
and the slopes of the Black Forest, and commands an exten-
sive view of the chain of bills by which Freiburg is enclosed.
The Schauinsland (p. 243), Belchen (p. 248) and Blauen (p. 247),
which, next to the Feldberg (p. 259), are the highest points
of the Black Forest, ^are visible in the distance, rising from

238 Route 09, EMMENDINGEN.

the mountain chain in the rear of the spire of the Mnnster
of Freiburg.

At Xmxnendingen {Post), in the charchyard, 6oethe'»
sister Cornelia (d. 1777) is interred. Beyond the town, on
an eminence to the 1., are to be seen the extensive and stilL
well -preserved ruins of Hockhurg, dismantled by order of
Louis XIV. in 1689.

Between Emmendingen and Denziingen, with its curious
open-work tower, the train crosses the Elz. From this point
a beautiful view is obtained of the valley of the Elz, opening
to the N. E., at the entrance of which is situated the little
town of Waldkirch (p. 257), with its slender white tower
and ruined castle, at the N. W. base of the Hohen-Kandet
(3886 ft.).

Near Freiburg, on the 1., stands the old watch-tower of
the now completely ruined castle of Zdhringen, once the seat
of a powerful race, which became extinct in 1218 by the
death of Count Berthold V. (p. 240). The Counts of Hoch-
berg, as well as the present Grand- duke of Baden, are de-
scendants of the Dukes of Zahringen.

60. Freiburg and its Environs.

Comp. Map R. 62.

Hotels. *Zahringer Hof, opp. the sUtion; *Hotel Fehrenbach
(spacious apartmeuts); Hotel Mailer, *Deutscher Hof. Of the second
class: *Pfaa, near the station, comfortable house. *Wilder Mann, not
far from the Schwabeuthor. Charges nearly the same in all: R« 48 kr. —
1 a., B. 24 kr., D. at 12% o'clock 1 fl., A. 18 kr. — *Heil. Geist. opp^
to the vest-portal of the Munster, R. 36, B. 20, D. 48 kr. — *Rom. Kaiser
for those of moderate requirements.

Oa^. *Kopf, 'Where beer may be procured; Qramm, by the
8chlos8berg.

Kewspapen in the Museum, near the post-office; strangers introduced
by a membert

Swimminf-baths at the foot of the Lorettoberg; bath 12 kr.
Carriage*: V4 hr. for 1 pers. 12, 2 pers. 15, 3 pers. 18, 4 pers. 21 kr.;
Vs hr. 24, 30, 36. 42 kr., and so on; for a whole hour 48— «6 kr.

Telegraph-ofAoe at the railway station.

H611enthal (p. 94). Diligence three times a day. Two-horse carriage
to the Hollensteig and back in 6 hrs. for 7 fl.

SngUah Church Serrioe in a room at the post-office buildings.

The traveller whose time is limited should follow the street to the r.

leading from the station, through the town as far as the 'Schwabenthor, andT

^hen ascend the Schlossberg, which may be done in 20 min. On the viAy

back he should visit the minster^ Merchants' Hall (exterior only), traverse

the broad Kaiserstrasse, and return to the station by the Deutscher Hof.

Freiburg (in the Breisgau), situated ahout 12 M. distant
from the Rhine, vies with its sister-towns Baden and Heidel-
berg in the beauty of its situation, and the magnificence of
its environs. The heights of the Black Forest, the picturesque

FREIBURG. 60. Route, 23^

groups of mountains in the vicinity, the populous and fertile
plain, bounded by the vine-clad Kaiserstuhl, and the lovely
valley of the Dreisam, all combine to render the situation one
of singular beauty.

For nearly 300 years Freiburg ^as subject to the Imperial
house of Habsburg; it suffered much in the 30 years* v/Wy
in 1677 it was taken by the French and fortified by Yauban,
and was confirmed to them by the peace of Nymweg in 1678;;
by the peace of Ryswyk in 1697 it was given back to Austria^
was conquered by Villars in 1713, after an obstinate defence;,
again restored to Austria by the peace of Rastadt in 1714^
besieged and taken by the French in 1745, and finally, after
the destruction of the fortifications, once more made over to
Austria by the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. The whole of the
Breisgau was an hereditary possession of the house of Austria,.
Freiburg being the capital, but was annexed to Baden by the
peace of Pressburg in 1806, and thus restored to the descend-
ants of the house of Zahringen, to which it originally owed
its foundation.

Notwithstanding its antiquity it contains few buildings-
worthy of note, with the exception of the Munster and the
Merchants* Hall, for which paucity it is indebted to its almost
complete destruction in 1747 by the French under Marshal
Coigny.

All the streets of the town are supplied with streams of
pure water from the Dreisam, which gives them an agreeable-
freshness in summer. The pop. is 17,000, 2000 of whom are
Protestants, who have settled here within the last twenty years^
Freiburg is still the seat of many old and wealthy families of
the Austrian nobility.

The jurisdiction of the archiepiscopal see extends over the
whole of the Grand -duchy of Baden and the HohenzoUera
principalities. The archbishop is also the head of the church
of the Upper-Rhine, comprising the bishoprics of Rothenburg,
Freiburg, Mainz, Fulda and Limburg.

The University, founded in 1456 by the Archduke^
Albert IV., is frequented almost exclusively by subjects of
Baden, and is one of the best Rom. Cath. institutions in
Germany. The lectures are chiefly held in the New University ,.
formerly a Jesuits' college (in the street leading from the f
station to the Kaiserstrasse) , and the medical lectures in the
Old University^ not far from the new. The latter contains a.
Zoological collection of considerable value (fee 18 kr.), and in
the former is a remarkable Anatomical museum (men only
admitted), containing specimens interesting only to the pro-
fessional visitor, but which by a strange inconsistency are.

240 Route 60. FREIBURG. Munster.

explained by a female attendant. Entrance opp. to the mo-
nument of Berthold Schwarz.

In front of the old university stands the handsome statue
of the Franciscan monk Berthold SchwarZj the inventor of gun-
powder in 1340. Opposite to it is the Franciscan Church, with
fine cloisters.

The *Mtiii8t6r is almost the only perfect Gothic church
in Germany, and is deservedly admired for the symmetry of
its proportions and its tasteful decorations. The structure,
which is of red sandstone, much darkened by age, was pro-
bably commenced by Conrad of Zahringen in 1122; the tran-
sept and the lower part of the side-towers, which are in the
Romanesque style, appear to belong to the most ancient portion
of the edifice. The body of the church, the W. side and the
spire (385 ft.), the finest part of the whole building, date from
1236. The tower is supported by a square foundation, and
is of an octagonal form, terminating in a bold pyramid of the
most exquisite fret-work masonry. Beneath it is the principal
entrance or Portal, richly decorated with sculptures; on the
r. side the 7 sleeping virgins, the 7 free arts, St Margaretha
and St. Catharina; on the I. the 7 watchful virgins, and figures
of saints. In front of the Portal are three columns, supporting
very inferior statues of the Virgin, St. Alexander, and St.
Lambert, the patron of the church.

The designs of the older part of the edifice were taken
from those of the Munster at Bale, while those for the more
recent portions undoubtedly served as a model for the con-
struction of the Strasburg Cathedral. The N. side of the
aisle is less richly decorated than the S. side. Round the
entire building are placed numerous statues of saints, pro-
phets, and allegorical figures in niches. The beauty of the
S. entrance is unfortunately marred by a portico erected in
the 17th cent.

The interior of the Munster (320 ft. long, 95 ft. broad,
and 85 ft. high), produces a deep impression with its magni-
ficent stained-glass windows belonging to different dates. The
best time to visit it is from 8 to 9 a.m., and from 11 a.m. to
7 p.m., as at these times there is no service. The services
of the sacristan (18 kr.) had better be engaged, as several
•pictures &c. cannot be seen without his assistance. The most
interesting objects are generally shown in the following order,
beginning on the r. •'

South Aisle. Good stained-glass windows of the l£th cent. The fonr
Evangelists in stained glass, executed bv Helmle ia 1822. An old tombstone
with haut-relief of Berthold V. of Zahringen , the Jast of his line (d. 1218).
In the Holy Sepulchre Chapel the Saviour on a sarcophagus, with a small

Munster. FREIBURG. 60. Route. 241

aperture in the chest opened on Good Fridays to receive a portion of the
host; under it the watchmen of the sepulchre asleep, valuable old sculptures.
The eight small stained - glass representations of scenes from the Passion,
designed by Diirer, and executed by Helmle, in 1826, are remarkable for the
beauty of their colouring. The figures on the carved wood-work of the side-
altars are old. That on the 1. with the adoration of the Magi , executed in
1505, especially deserves inspection.

Choir Chapels. The capitals of the pillars at the entrance are decor-
ated with quaint figures of sirens, griffins, monks and women, — burlesques
in the taste of the middle ages. The stained glass in these chapels is much
damaged. — Altar-pieces: 1st chapel. * Winged picture, St. Augustin, Anto-
nius and Rochus in the middle, and St. Sebastian and Christoph on the wings,
by an unknown master. — 2nd chapel (University Chapel). The * Nativity
and the adoration of the Magi. Next to it a portrait of a priest, in Holbein's
style, worthy of inspection. — At the back of the high-altar, a * winged
picture by ffans Baldungy surnamed Grim (1516), representing the Crucifixion,
to the 1. St. Hieronymus and John the Baptist, to the r. St. Qeorge and St.
Lanrentitts. The chapel to the i. behind the high-altar contains a Bysantine
crucifix of the time of the Crusades, with silver-gilt figure of the Saviour.

— Another chapel to the 1. contains a carved wooden * Adoration of the 15th
cent., in a large Gothic frame-work.

Choir. At the entrances to the r. and 1., haut-relief sculptures of the
dukes Berthold III. and IV., of Conrad III. and Rudolph of Zahringen. On
the wall a quaint monument of General de Rodt (d. 1743). — High -altar
piece by Han» Baldung, painted in 1516, with coronation of the Virgin in
the centre, and the twelve apostles at the sides; at the extreme sides the
Annunciation, Visitation, Nativity, and Flight into Egypt. Episcopal chair
richly carved.

North Aisle. In the chapel of the Mount of Olives a stone relief of
the Last Supper (1805), and four small *stained- glass windows with scenes
from the Passion, designed by Durer, and executed by the brothers Helmle.

— Statne of the Archbishop Boll (d. 1636), by Friederich. — Monument to
the Archbiihop Demeter (d. 1842). Near the latter a sarcophagus containing
bones of ancient Counts of Zahringen , transferred in 1829 from the abbey of
Thennenbach (see below). — In the closed Chapel of St. Alexander may be
seen the skeleton of the saint in a robe richly embroidered with gold, silver
and Jewels, presented by Pope Innocent X. in 1650.

On the W. wall are circular stained-glass windows, those to the I. new,
and those to the r. old. The pulpit f executed by the sculptor Kempf in
1561, is said to be hewn out of a solid block of stone.

Tower. Entrance in the church to the r. by the portal; adra. by card
6 kr., fee for the warder of the tower 12 kr., who also shows the mechanism
of the clock by Sehwilgui. The ascent is recommended , more for the sake
of examining the beauty of the architecture than for the view, which is
similar to that from the Schlossberg.

Opposite to the S. portal of the Munster is the Merchants'
Hall, erected in the 15th cent. The front rests on five pillars,
forming a circular hall, above which is a balcony with two
projecting towers, covered with coloured tiles and painted
arms in relief; on the outer wall, small statues of the emperors
of Austria &c. with inscriptions. The hall in the interior is
now used for concerts, balls and other festivities. '

The Prot. Churchy at the N. extremity of the Kaiser-
strasse, in the Romanesque style, was erected in 1839, with
the materials taken from the ruined abbey of Thennenbach.
Nearly opposite to it are the barracks built by the Austrian
gOYernment in 1776, and farther to the E. the Hall of Art
Babdbkbr's Rhine. 16

242 Boute 60. FREIBURG- Schlossberg^,

and Harmony, and the well-conducted National Asylum for
the Blind,

The old Giothic Fountain in the middle of the Kaiser-
strasse, with its old and new statues of saints, knights and
hishops in niches, is worthy of inspection. A second fountain
farther S. in the same street has a monument of Berthold III.,
the founder of Freiburg (1120), and hears inscriptions recording:
the names of the various benefactors of the town.

Near the St. ICartinsthor is a figure painted on the wall,
representing St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar. The
inscription on the gateway commemorates the bravery dis*
played by the townspeople against the French in 1796.

On leaving the town by the SchwabenUior, a broad foot-
path to the 1. leads through vineyards to the *Schl08abei^
(400 ft.), once strongly fortified with two castles, destroyed
by the French in 1744, during the Bavarian war of succession.
The ruins of these strongholds, with their huge, massive
walls, rocky vaults, fosses &c., are now converted into plea-
sure grounds. On the highest rock is an inscription recording
the gratitude of the burghers of Freiburg to the Dukes of
Zahringen, who founded the town, and to their descendant
the Grand -duke Ludwig. The iron indicator, supposed to
point to the difi^erent objects visible from the top, cannot be
implicitly relied upon. The view is preferred by many to-
those from the castles of Baden and Heidelberg; to the £.
lies the green and animated Kirchzarter Thai, Irrigated by
the Dreisam; in the background the entrance to the Hollen-
thai; nearly due S. rises the Schau ins Land (see p. 243),
to the r. of it the peak of the Belch en (p. 248), the second
highest of the Black Forest; S. W. the Schonberg (2000 ft.),
and in front of it the Chapel of Loietto (see below), to
the W. the blue chain of the Vosges, and the Rhine. From
the plain rises the Kaiserstuhl (p. 243), sloping southwards
into a richly cultivated plain bounded by the extensive
range of the spurs of the Black Forest mountains. In the
foreground lies Freiburg itself with its elegant open-work
Munster-tower.

From the large crescent (^^Kanonenplatz") a path through
a gate leads to Schaichs Schlosschen, a restaurant where
good beer may be procured. This is also the shortest way
back to the town.

The "'Lorettocapelle, mentioned above, lies about 1 M.
to the S. of the town, and deserves a visit for the sake of
the view it affords of the lovely Gunthersthal, with its ancient
monastery, which is not visible from the Schlossberg. It was
in this valley that the Imperial General Mercy successfully

KAISERSTUHL. 60. Route. 243

defended his entrenchments against the columns of Turenne
in 1644.

On market-days (Thurs. and Sat.) the peculiar costume of
the peasantry of the Black Forest may be seen to advantage
at Freiburg.

Excursion to the HoUenthal, see p. 258.

One of the principal heights of the Black Forest is the
Schau ins Land, or Erzkasten (3930 ft.), which may best
be visited as follows*, by carriage (1-horse 3 fl.) to the Molz-
Bauer, in the Elappeler Thai, in l^/^ hr. ; thence on foot to
the summit in 2% hrs.; down in 2^/^ hrs. to the Baths of
Littenweiler, where dine, and in the afternoon back to Frei-
burg (3 M.) on foot or by omnibus.

Excursion from Freiburg. — Bad Littenweiler (charges moderate)
lies not far from the Dreisam, at tlie entrance of tlie Kappeler Thaly and is
visited for tlie sake of its powerful chalybeate waters, which are better
adapted for baths than for drinking. Also a whey-cure establishment.

From the baths S. into the Kappeler valley to Kappel (l*/, H.), to
MoUbauer (1% M,), then a steep ascent; 2 M. farther the road leads to
the r. by a cottage, and then in a straight direction for 1 M. to 4 cottages
(refreshments); V4 H. beyond them the path makes a steep ascent, and
3 M. more bring the pedestrian to the spot where landslips took place
in 1849 and 1855. A little to the left the path ascends the hill, passing
a spring of delicious water, and reaching the ridge of the mountain in
about 20 min.j a walk of 10 min. more to the r. brings the pedestrian
to the cross at the top, which commands a magnificent view. About
2 .If. to the S. is a group of houses called an der Salde, the highest
of which to the r. is the Rosalty a good, clean country inn. The
Feldberg (p. 259) is 7 M. to the £. of this point; the Belchen the same
distance.

Beautiful walks lirom Freiburg to the Schonberg (41/2 M. to the S. W.»
through the Gunthersthal, p. St42), to the KybfeUen (5 H. to the S. E.; at
the entrance to the wood before reaching the Gunthersthal, the road to the
1. must be taken, see sign-post), back by the Gunthersthal and Lorettoberg.
Longer walks may be taken to the Rostkopf (2290) •ft.) N. E., and thence to
the JdgtrhaMley or the castle of ZaAringen (p. 74).

An excursion to the KaLserstuhl may be best made as
follows: by carriage (1-horse 3 fl.) in 2 hrs. to Oberachaf-
haueen, at the foot of the Kaiserstuhl; with guide in 1 hr.
to the Neun Linden (1763 ft.), the summit of the hill, com-
manding a most beautiful view of the Black Forest and the
Yosges ; then without guide in 1 hr. to Bickensohl (good wine
at the ^^Stnbenwirth*'), and by Achkarren in 1 y, hr. to Breisachy
whence the diligence runs twice a day in 3 hrs. to Freiburg
(1 fl.), or in the same time to Colmar (2 fr.).

The high road from Freiburg to Breisach traverses the
Mooswald, a boggy, wooded district between St Georgen and
Thiengen, and then leads S. round fertile slopes, raised
by volcanic action, past Munzingen and the St. ApoUoniuS"
Capelie. At Ober • Rimsingen is the chateau of Baron Fal-
kenstein.

244 Route 6L BREISACH.

Breiaach, or Alt-BrQisach (PosO> the Mom hriaiacm of
tb«- Romans, is situated at the S.W. extremity of the Kaiser-
stnbl, and is visible from a considerable distance. As late as
the ioth cent., the Rhine is said to have flowed round the
town, which was in early times a fortification of great im-
portance, and was regarded as the key of Germany. From
1331 it belonged to Austria, in 1638 it was taken, after a
dreadful siege, by the Swedes under Bernhard of Weimar,
and was after his death garrisoned by the French; in 1700
it again came into the possession of Austria; in 1703 it was
taken by Tallard and Vauban, and in 1714 restored to the
Austrians. In 1740 a change in the course of the Rhine
proved so detrimental to the fortifications, that they were
afterwards abandoned and partly demolished by the Austrians,
and in 1793 completely destroyed by the French. At a later
date they were again partially restored, but were agaio levelled
by the government of Baden. There is an old saying with
regard to Breisach:

Limea eratn Gallis, nunc pons et janua fio;
Si pergunt, Gallis nullibi limes eritl

The town, now of no importance, is situated on a rock
rising precipitously several hundred feet above the Rhine, and
surmounted by the Gothic Munster of *St, Stephen, erected
at the close of the 13th cent. The interior contains a fine
old rood-loft belonging to the same date, and an altar-piece
of carved wood, representing the coronation of the Virgin, ex-
ecuted in 1597. The communication with the opposite side
of the Rhine is maintained by means of a flying-bridge. The
high-road to Golmar (omnibus twice a day in 3 hrs.) leads
past Fort Mortier and Neu-Breisach (Hotel de France), strongly
fortified in 1700 by Vauban.

Colmar, see p. 227.

61. From Freiburg to B&le.

(Comp. Map R. 62,)

By the Baden Railway in I'A— ^Vi brs. Fares: express 3 fl. 6, and
2 fl. 6 kr. ; ordinary trains 2 fl. 33, 1 fl. 45, and 1 fl. 6 kr.

The course of the railway is within a short distance of
the W. spurs and vine- clad slopes of the Black Forest. To
the r. are the S. slopes of the Kaiserstuhl (p. 243). Beyond
Schallstadt the castle of Staufenhurg (p. 249) is visible in the
distance to the 1., situated on an eminence at the entrance of
the Munsterthal, which is terminated by the Belchen (p. 248).
Stat. Krotzingen (* Post), The little town of Heitersheim, once

MtLLHEIM. 62, Route. 245

the seat of the Master of the Order of St. John of Malta in

Germany, lies lYj M. from the station.

KtLUheim CKiftier, R. 42 kr., B. 20 kr., at the station;

Engei, Krone in the town), celebrated for the Markgrafler

wine which is here produced, especially from the vineyards

near Auggen^ and on the slopes of the hills as far as Grenz-

ach, above Bale. Omnibus to Badenweiler (see below) on the

arrival of every train, in % hr. , fare 36 kr. Travellers

who arrive late in the evening are recommended to pass the

night at Mullheim, as the hotels at Badenweiler are occasion^

ally fall.

To the W. of Mullheim, IVs M. from the station, lies Keuenbui^, on the
BUne, besieged in 1633 — 34 by Bernbard von Weimar, -who here ended his
heroic career, not without suspicion of poison.

At Schlieng^n {* Krone) the line approaches the Rhine,
which IS here divided into several arms by fertile islands.
Kear the stat. Kleinkemhs it runs close to the river, and
penetrates the ^^Isteiner Klotz,'' a limestone cliff immediately
overhanging the water. The short distance between Bellingen
and E/ringen is remarkable for the windings of the line,
which here runs along an embankment high above the Rhine.
At Eimeldingen (825 ft.) the train crosses the Kander (p. 247),
beyond which a splendid view is suddenly disclosed of the
course of the Rhine, Alsace, and the Jura beyond Bale. Near
the stal Leopoldshohe lies the old fortress of Huningen^ on
the opposite bank of the river. The terminus at Klein-Basel
is y^ M. from the Rhine-bridge, to which a broad street leads
direct, and 2 M. from the Swiss central-station at Bale.

fia/e, see R. 64.

62. Badenweiler and its Environs.

• Bilrgeln, Blauen, Belchen, Mdnstearthal.

Hotels. *R6merhaus, R. 48 Jir., B. S4 kr., D. 1 fl. 13 kr. *Stadt
Carlsrnhe, R. 40 kr., B. 20 kr., D. incl. W. 1 II. 12 kr. — Badischer
Hof, moderate. — Single trarellers may find good and cheap accommodation
at the Ocha and Wilder Mann atOberweiler, a village at the foot of the
Badenweiler hill, or at the Lowe aud Schtoan at Niederweiler, on the
road to Mullheim. Qood wine and refreshments in the inn at VSgisheim,
a village between Mullheim and Aaggeo, and 4 M. from Badenweiler, with
which it is connected by a shady walk.

Omnibiia from the station at Mullheim to Badenweiler in 1 hr., but the
^iittanee may be walked in nearly the same time, as the road ascends the
whole way. These who wish to employ the omnibus are recommended to
engage a seat immediately on leaving the train.

JMnkeya at Badenweiler: to the station 40 kr., Blaueu 1 fl. 20 kr., Bel-
chen 3 fl., Burgein 1 fl. 20 kr., Kandem 1 fl. 48 kr., Sophienrnhe 18 kr.,
Alte-Mann 24 kr.

Holly walkiBg-ctiikt, carved, at XolTs, in Oberweiler.

246 Route 62. BADENWEILER.

Badenweiler, situsted on the W. spurs of the Black
Forest, 1314 ft. above the level of the sea, and 695 ft. above
the Rhine, commands an extensive view of the vast plain of
the Rhine as far as the Vosges. This pleasant little watering-
place was until recently but little frequented, except by the
inhabitants of the neighbouring towns, but has of late lost
much of its pristine simplicity (300 patients in 1863).

The principal rendez-vons of the gay world is the *Cur-
saal, which contains concert, ball, drawing and reading-rooms.
In front of this edifice stands a small fountain with two bas-
reliefs . of Jesus and the Samaritan woman, and Moses striking
the rock. One pipe yields thermal (82° Fahr.), and the other
common water. At the back of the Cursaal is a * Restaurant,
where a band plays in the morning and evening, and where
the keys of the Roman baths are kept.

Adjoining the Cursaal is a small *Fark extending up the
hill, which is surmounted by the ruins of the Castle, origin-
ally built by the Romans for the protection of the baths
below, and destroyed by the French in 1688. The fragments
of the walls are . completely enveloped in ivy; view magnificent.

That the springs were known to the Romans was proved
in 1784 by the discovery of the ^Boxnan baths (fee 12 kr.),
which are in good preservation, and are among the finest
specimens known. Their entire length is 324 ft., breadth
100 ft., and the partitions, flooring, steps &c. are all well
preserved. The larger apartments all contain two baths, cold
baths ifrigidaria) 33 by 21 ft., and warm {tepidaria) 29 by
25 ft. ; there are also yapour baths (Ictconica), vestibules (atria),
anointing - rooms {unctaria) &c. An inscription on the altar
records that the baths were dedicated to ^^Diana Abnob(ja)j* or
the Diana of the Abnoba, or Black Forest mountains.

The environs of Badenweller afford the most delightfal
* sylvan walks. A signpost on the Kandern road, immediately
at the back of the village, indicates the way to the Sophien-
ruhe; the traveller ascends the hill in about 17 min. to the
crescent, then to the 1., in 2 min. more to the 1. again, and
then, slightly descending to the 1., a few hundred steps farther
the *Sophienrtilie is reached. It is a large open space on
the outskirts of the wood, in a S. £. direction from Baden-
weller, and about 200 ft. above the village; the view is still
more picturesque than that from the old castle , which
forms with Badenweller itself a beautiful foreground to the
landscape.

On returning, 2 min. from the Sophienruhe, a good broad
path ascends to the * Alter Mann (^^ M.), a rocky eleva-
tion, accessible only by bridges and steps, about 100 ft.

BtRGELN. 62, Route. 247

higher than the Sophienruhe; view similar, with wooded fore-
^ound.

A path across the bridge descends to the Haus Baden ^ a
miners* tavern (% M.), whence the pedestrian may either re-
turn to Badenweiler, or continue his walk to Burgeln^ which
lies 5 M. to the S. By attending to the following directions,
the road cannot be missed; but to prevent all possibility of
mistake, a boy should be taken from Badenweiler (30 kr.) to
the Sophienruhe, Alter Mann and Burgeln. Donkey 1 fl. 20 kr.

Between the houses of Haus-Baden a narrow path leads in about 4 min.
to the carriage-road, at the side of which are gypsum mines. Immediately
after passing them, the turning to the r. must be taken; '/« M. farther Seh-^
ringen is reached (l'/^ II. from Badenweiler), where the path Joins the
Badenweiler and Biirgeln road. The latter is little better than a cart-track,
and leads chiefly through wood; 1*/% M. farther is a signpost indicating the
4ireciion of Burgeln to the 1.; '/« If. beyond the post, the cart-road is
crossed by the path which leads into a thick wood, and in 7 min. another
.signpost is reached, where however the direction must not be changed ; 1 M.
more brings the pedestrian to another signpost, 1 H. beyond which another
is reached, indicating the way to the Blaneu (6 M.), and to the r. at a
sharp angle to Burgeln ('/« M.).

* Biirgeln (2250), commonly called the Burgler Schhs9
{Inn, moderate), was formerly a branch of the large and
wealthy Benedictine foundation of St. Blasien (p. 262) in the
Black Forest. The stag, the arms of St. Blasian, still serves
as a weather-cock. It is most beautifully situated to the S.,
and almost at the foot of the Blauen, commanding a magni-
ficent view, similar to that from the Blauen (see below),
though less extensive. To the E. is seen the chain of
mountains which bound the Wiesenthal (p. 260), S. E. the
snow-clad Alps from the Scheerhorn to the Jnngfran (comp.
p. 248), in front of them the Jura, and in the foreground well-
wooded heights, on the most considerable of which Eandern
(see below) is situated; a little farther back are Bale, Hunin-
gen with bridge of boats, Muhlhausen and the Rhine-Rhone
canal, glimpses of the Rhine, and to the W. the long chain
of the Vosges. The interior of the castle and church may
be visited, but they contain few objects of interest.

Schliengen (p. 245), the nearest station, lies 6 M. to the
W. of Burgeln. Or the road may be taken to Eandern
<1087 ft.) {Blume; Ochs; good beer at Kummich'a), 37, M.
distant, and thence to Bale 13 M.; or, as the road is unin-
teresting, by carriage from Eandern to Bale (4 H.).

The ascent of the *Blauen (3589 ft.), one of the five
highest points of the Black Forest, at the N. base of which
Badenweiler lies, is one of the easiest and most beautiful ex-
cursions from the latter place (donkey 1 fl. 20 kr.). The
broad carriage - road through fir- woods cannot be missed,
and the summit may easily be reached in 2 hrs. The Blauen

248 Route 62, BELCHEN.

is the nearest to the Rhine of all the peaks of the Black
Forest, and the coarse of the river from Bale to the Kaiser-
stuhl lies before the spectator. Fonr different mountain chaina
are visible to the naked eye, to the E. the Black Forest, to
the W. the Vosges, to the S. the Jura, and in clear weather
the snow-clad chain of the Alps in the following order: S.E.
the broad back of the Glarnisch, the Todi and the two-peaked
Scheerhoru, beyond these the summit of the Titlis, farther
S., one behind the other, are the Wetterhorner, Schreckhorner
and the Finsteraarhorn, next the Eiger, Monch, the Jungfrau,
Blumlisalp, Altels, and finally to the W. the jagged Diablerets^
Mont Blanc and the Dent da Midi. Schloss Burgein (p. 247>
is 5 M. from the summit of the Blauen.

The excursion to the Belchen and Mumterthal requires an
entire day. To the sammit of the former is a walk of ^^^
hrs., down to Neumuhl 2 hrs., thence to stat. Erotzingen ou
foot in 3 hrs., or by carriage in l'^ hr. Guide from Baden-
weiler to the Belchen not absolutely necessary, but desirable.
Donkey 3 fl.

The view is still grander than that from the Blauen, as it
comprises the beautiful Munsterthal, Wiesenthal, and other
valleys which are not visible from the latter.

From Badenweiler to the £elchen by a good road iu an E. direc-
tion; after V/^ M. to the r. in the wood; V4 ^> <>*> ^b^ carriage-road in the-
valley to the village of Schwtighof; then the broad road which ascends at
first gently, and afterwards rapidly, through woods and rocliy laudscapesr
leads to Sirnitz (4 M.), a forester^s house (Zum Auerhahn) iu a greeu dale,
where refreshments may be procured. The same broad road must still be
followed ; it ascends in % hr. to the ridge from which the Belchen rises, then
descends to the other side to the houses called an der Maid e {I M.), where
the carriage-road must be left. Up to this point a guide is quite unnecessary,
but the path now becomes more difficult to trace. By carefully attending to
the following directions, however, the pedestrian may safely venture alone,,
if the weather be tolerably clear.

In 25 min. the wood is entered, and in 15 mtn. more a small open spot
is reached ; here at the boundary-stoae the path is crossed by the road leadiug^
from the liiinsterthal to Neuenweg. The narrow path now leads straight on,
keeping the peak of the Belchen quite to the 1., and ascends the narrow
mountain ridge. In 10 min. more an open grass-plot on the N. slope of the-
ridge is reached. Here the pedestrian must turn to the 1., and ascend by
the fence in the direction of the two mountain peaks (Hochkelch). At the
end of the enclosure it must be crossed, and the steep hill close past the
two peaks ascended; in 20 min. more level ground is reached; in 10 min.
the ridge which connects the Hochkelch with the Belchen is then arrived at,,
a boundary-stone is passed, and iu 25 min. more the cross on the summit is
attained.

The *Belchen (4356 ft.) commands a most extensive and
magnificent view of the surrounding valleys, especially the
picturesque animated Munsterthal to the N.W. and the Wiesen-
thal to the S. The distant view is the same as that from the-
Blauen, with the exception that the nearer part of the valley
of the Rhine is concealed.

MCNSTERTHAL. 63. Route. 249

From the Belchen into the Munsterthal. The tow of boundary -
•tones to the N. of the cross must be followed, and iu 2 or 3 min. a good
path is reached, which winds down over bilberry-clad slopes, and leads iu
35 min. to the Sennhutte in der Krinne (3470 ft.)* where refreshments may
be procured. The Henuhutte mast now be left about 100 paces to the r., aud
the stony road to the 1. descends through wood into the valley, the bottom of
which is reached iu 50 min. Then through the valley, past some silver mines
and stamping mill, worked by au Eu{j;lisli company, to NeumuM in 25 min.,
where at the * Krone inn a one-horse carriage may be had to Krotzingen
(9 M.) for 3 fl.

The Miinsterthal is at the top narrow, but gradually
widens towards the mouth. It is a well- populated valley,
irrigated by the Neumagen Bach, but is not sufficiently at-
tractive to induce the traveller to traverse it on foot At the
mouth of the valley, 6 M. from Neumuhl and 3 M. from
Krotziugen, lies the small and ancient town of Staufen CBa-
discher Ho/), overtopped by the ruins of the Staufenburg, seat
of a powerful race which became extinct in 1602. The vineyards
which occupy the hill produce the "Burghalder" wine.

Between Staufen and stat. Krotzingen an omnibus runs
several times a day. Conveyances to be had at the ^Badischer
Ho/, near the station.

63. The Black Forest (Baden portion.)

Pedestrian tour of ten days from Baden. 1st day. Ebersteiu-
schloss (p. 215), Forbach, Schonmunzach (p. 251). — 2nd. Hornisgrinde,.
Mummelsee (p. 251), Allerheiligen. — 3rd. Oppeuau, by carriage to Gries-
bach, Holzwalderhohe, Rippoldsau, Schapbach (p. 255). — 4th. Wolfach,.
Hornberg, Tryberg (p. 256). — 5th. Furtwangen, Simonswald, Waldkirch
(p. 257). — 6th. By carriage and railway to Freiburg. — 7th. (Carriage to
entrance of) the Hollenthal, Feldberg (Albthal see p. 263), Todtnau (p. 260).--
8th. Wiesenthai to Schopfheini (p. 261). — 9th. Wehrathai (p. 262), thence
by railway to B&le (p. 264). — 10th. (Railway to) Miiliheim, Badeuweiler^
Blauen (p 245).

The following three routes have been so planned, that after a walk
of 2 — 3 days the railway may always be reached. The pedestrian will find
the following maps, published by Herder at Freiburg, of great service to
him: 1. Baden and the Kniebisbader. 2. Environs of Freiburg. 3. Southern
valleys of the Black Forest. Mounted, 1 fl. 12 kr. each.

Of all the wooded districts of Germany, none offer such
a succession of beautiful and varied landscapes as the Black
Forest, especially the W. portion, belonging to Baden, the
spurs of which decline precipitously towards the plain of the
Rhine, whilst the E. slopes are more gradual. The lower
heights are covered with fragrant fir and pine forest, and the
populous and fertile valleys present a scene of luxurious vege-
tation, corn, wine and fruit being abundantly produced. The
rocks consist of gneiss, granite and sandstone. The numerous
mineral springs have given rise to many little watering-
places, which offer tempting retreats to the weary traveller. Even
in the more remote districts the inns are good (trout every-
where, but somewhat dear), and offer no mean additional
attraction to this favoured locality.

250 Route 63. MURGTHAL. Black Forest.

A large proportion of the population is occapied with
traffic in wood, which is conducted down the principal streams
in the Forest to the Rhine, where the larger rafts are con-
structed, and afterwards navigated down to Holland. Watch-
making, a rapidly increasing branch of industry, engages a
considerable number of persons. In this busy and prosperous
-district beggars are unknown.

a. Murgthal, Homi«grmde, Mummelsee.

Camp. Map R. 52,

From Baden to Gernsbach and Allerheiligen.

Two days' walk: let. From Baden to Oernabach (6 lf.)i thence to For-
hach 10 M., from Forbach to Schonmuntach IJA. — Snd. From SehSnmunzach
to the summit of the HomUgrinde 4^^, hrs., down to the Mummelsee >/, hr.,
and to Seebach 1 hr., or to Ottenbo/en^ and thence over the hill to Aller-
heiligen I'/i hr. — At Gernsbach, Forbach, and Schonmunzach conveyances
may be procured: 2-horse carriages for 4 pets, from Gernsbach to SehSn-
munzach, inc. driver's fee, 6 II. 45 kr. (from Forbach to Sehonmiinzaeh 4 fl.),
I'rom Sehonmiinzaeh to the Eckle (2 M. from the Hornisgrinde) 5 fl. 36 kr. ;
here the carriage-road ends. — Between Gernsbach and Schonmunzach an
open diligence, accommodating 6 pers., runs every day in 4 hrs. (fare 1 fl.)
to meet the coach between the latter place and Freudenstadt (fare 48 kr.)

The Murg takes its rise on the Kniebia (p. 253) from three
springs which unite below Baiersbronn (p. 253). After a
-course of about 45 M. it empties itself into the Rhine below
Rastadt. The inhabitants of its banks are almost exclusively
engaged in the wood traffic. The timber, which is cut in
winter, is carried down by the spring floods to the Rhine,
and large crowds often assemble to witness the large masses
being precipitated into the stream.

The Murgthal between Gernsbach and Schonmunzach
presents a series of wild and beautiful landscapes. The sides
t>f the valley are richly clothed with pines, firs and beeches,
and the scene is often varied by green meadows, and cot-
tages in the Swiss style interspersed among the woods. As
far as Schonmunzach the rocks consist of granite, huge blocks
of which lie scattered in Uie forest, and by the mountain
brooks. Above Sehonmiinzaeh the formation is of gneiss,
hence the rounded and smooth aspect of the slopes. Varie-
gated sandstone occasionally makes its appearance. The val-
ley here becomes broader, and thus loses much of its peculiar
obarm. It is seen to the best advantage in descending the
stream.

From Baden to Gernsbach see _^p. 214. The road in the
Murgthal gradually ascends at the foot of the hill on which
the £bersteins Chios s is situated. The pedestrian descending
the valley must take the footpath by the last house at Oberts-
roth to reach the castle.

Black Forest, SCHONMCNZACH. 63. Route, 251

At HUpertsau the road crosses to the r. bank of the Murg,
and leads through the villages of Weissenbach ^ Langenbrand,
and Gausbach. That part of the vallej which lies between
Gernsbach and Forbach is the most animated as well as the
most picturesque.

Forbach {* Krone , conveyances; Adler) is the finest point

in the whole valley; the church is picturesquely situated on

an eminence.

The footpath from Baden to Forbach (12 M.) diverges to the r. from
the carriage*road, '/4 M. beyond Oberbeuem (p. 214), at the signpost; % M.
farther is Geitbach^ and 1% M. Schmalbach. where the path to the I. must be
kept; !■/, H. from Schmaibach, a broad pathway diverges from the road to
the r., aod leads for 1 M. along the E. slope of the mountain ridge, passing
a meadow. At the end of the meadow the turning to the I. must be taken,
y4 M. beyond which a cross-way is reached, where the path which ascends
the hill ill a straight direction must be kept; 'A IC. more brings the pedes-
trian to the main road, which must be followed for */, ^m t^^n ^ the sign-
post the turning to the 1. must be taken to Bennersbach {V/^ hL.). The
path which ascends by the village well must now be taken, and V/^ H. far-
ther Forbach is reached.

Beyond Forbach the Mnrgthal becomes more deserted, but
continues grand and beautiful, resembling some of the wildest
Swiss valleys; at the bottom rushes the impetuous mountain
stnream over scattered fragments of rock, and on either side
are dark overhanging pine -clad hills. Half way to Schon-
munzach, the Raumunzack (on the r.) unites with the Murg.

SchOnmUnzach (Oieukutte; Wcddhorn) is the iirst village
in the dominions of Wurttembet^, and consists of a consider-
able glass -manufactory and a group of houses. The brook
of the same name here falls into the Mnrg. (Good bathing-
place in the latter y^ M. above the post.)

The road to the Hornisgrinde and Mummelsee
(12 M.) leads from this point along the Schon munzach to
Zwiegabel (3 M.), crosses the brook, and ascends to the r.
along the Langenbach^ past Vorder-Langenbach (ly, M.) to
Hinter-Langenbach (^^^ M.), where, at the small village inn
{Zujle, tolerable wine), guides may be procured to the Hornis-
grinde and Mummelsee.

Here the path becomes steeper, and leads to the E^kle
(3 M.), a strip of wood on the ridge of the mountain, where
a stone marks the boundary between Wurttemberg and Baden,
and where a view of the distant Vosges is obtained. At this
point are three different paths: that most to the r. enters
the wood and constitutes the boundary line between the two
dominions already mentioned; the 2nd, also inclining to the
r., leads past the Drei-Furstenstein, which bears the arms of
Baden and Wurttemberg, to the Hornisgrinde (2 M.). The

252 Route 63. MUMMELSEE. Black Forest.

third path (to the Mummeisee), at first hat Httle trodden, runs
parallel with the road, and after a few paces joins a broad
track, which, slightly ascending, skirts the hill-side; 10 min.
from the Eckle, the broad stony path ascending to the r.
must be taken, which in y^ hr. leads to the extremity of the
Mnmmelsee.

If the pedestrian follow the second of the above mentioned
paths, it will conduct him to the * Homisgrinde (3612 ft),
the highest point of which is marked by a massive sqaare
stone heap. The view is very extensive; to the E. is seen
the Schwabian Alb, the Achalm at Reatlingen, Hohentwiel,
and other peaks of the Hohgau; to the S. the heights of the
Black Forest, the Feldberg, Belchen, Blanen, and beyond
them even the Alps (comp. p. 248); to the S. W. the
Kaiserstuhl (p. 243) and Vosges; to the W. the vast and
popaloas plain of the Rhine, with its numerous villages
and towns ; almost exactly opposite is visible the spire of the
cathedral of Strasburg, and on a mountain in the foreground
the extensive ruins of the Briffittenscklaas [usually ascended from
Ottenhofen (see below), fine view]; to the N. the mountains
round Baden, the Mercuriusberg (p. 215), and evep the Thurm-
berg (p. 206) at Durlach.

From the summit of the Hornisgrinde the path gradually
descends in a S. W. direction, and soon becomes a more
distinct tract, leading in y^ hr. to the Kummelaee, a gloomy
looking little lake, surrounded by fir-clad mountain walls, and,
according to an old popular tradition, inhabited by water-
sprites and goblins, whose supposed presence contributes more
to the interest of the spot than the natural features of the
scene. By the Seebach^ the brook which flows out of the lake
on the S. side, is a hut which serves as a resting-place and
shelter in bad weather. About 10 yds. above the lake, at the
N. W. corner, not fiir from the path from the Hornisgrinde,
a spring of excellent water issues from the rock.

From the Mummelsee to Seebach (ffirsch, very unpretend-
ing) is a distance of about 3 M. From the latter place
two paths lead to AllerheUigen (p. 254), one arduous and un-
interesting over the mountains, and not to be ventured upon
without a guide (36 kr.) ; the other and pleasanter leads through
the valley to OttenhOfen (2y4 M.), and then follows the
road described at p. 158.

■ ■ "'f ■ ■ ■ -■■■!■■■ I

It has already been said that the Upper Muryihal offers
fewer attractions than the lower part of the valley, but the
traveller who has already visited the Mummelsee and Aller-
heiligen should continue his way from Schonmunzach to

Black Forest. KNIEBIS, 6S, Route, 258

Keichenbach {ly^ M.)> formerly a monastery, where a pleasing
retrospective view of the valley is obtained. Before reaching
Baiersbronn the footpath descending to the r. into the valley
may be taken, following the course of the stream through
the picturesque and animated Mittel- and Ober-Murythal, with
its numerous saw-mills and other signs of the industry of the
inhabitants, to Buhlbach {* Inn near the glass-house, R. and
B. 40 kr.), 7V2 M. from Baiersbronn. The large glass-house
yields annually upwards of half a million Champagne bottles.
AllerheUigen is 6 M. to the W. ; footpath over the Grunde.

The road from Buhlbach to the Kniebis ascends gradually
through the wood the whole way. About 3 M. to the S. of
Buhlbach the pedestrian reaches an open grass-plat where the
road diverges to the r. at a right angle, but he must bear
to the 1. across the grass, and 5 min. will bring him to a
broad stony track which leads to the Wurttemberg boundary-
stone ('/4 M.). Ten min. walk along the furrow marking the
boundary line will now bring the traveller up the Rossbuhi to
the Schwabensckanz (3361 ft), an intrenchment made at the
close of the last century by an officer of Wurttemberg. The
view from this point comprises the valley of the Rhine,
Strasburg and the Swiss mountains.

Five minutes* walk S. from this point along the frontier
line will bring the pedestrian to a large Boundary stone,
bearing the date 1673, where, close to the E. side of the
path, is the old Schwedenschanze (Swedish intrenchment).
About 200 yds. to the E. of this point is the Kniebis- Zufluchts-
kausy where wine may be procured. The path descending to
the r. by the boundary-stone leads in 10 min. to the old
high-road which traverses a succession of beautiful forest
and mountain scenes to Oppenau (472 M.) (p. 255). The
entire distance from Schonmunzach to Buhlbach is about
15 M. (1-horse carriage in 3 hrs. for 3 fl. and from Buhl-
bach to Oppenau about 10 M.

b. Allerheiligen, Waterfalls of Biittenstein, Kniebis-
bader, WaterfiEklls of Tryberg, Kinzigthal.

Comp. Map R, 52.

Pedestrian tour SVs days. Ist. From Ackern to Griesbach 24 M., or
better by carriage. — 2nd. To Hausach 24 M. 3d. To Trpberg and back,
and then to HoMlach 25Va M. 4th. To Offenburg 15 M. Should the traveller
prefer it , he may accomplish this tour in 2 days by availing himself of the
public and other conveyances. Ist day. From Achern to Neuhaus (1-horse car-
riage 2 fl. 42 kr., p. 216) in IV2 hr. ; on foot over the mountain to AUerheiUgen
in V4 h^M from the forest-house to the foot of the waterfalls in 20 min., then
by carriage (l-horse 3Vj fl.), to Qriesbach in 27, hrs.; on foot over the
Holzwaider Hohe to Rippoldsau in V/^ hrs.; by carriage (4 tL.\ omnibus,
in the morning only, 1 fl.) to- Wolfach in 2 hrs. 2nd day. By carriage to

254 name 63. ALLERHEILI6EK. Black Forest.

Trpberg (visit to tlie waterfall oo foot in 2 hra.)« and back to Wolfach (1-horae
5 fl.) in 5 hrs.; from Wolfacii to Offenburg (1-liorse 6 fl.; omnibus in the
morning only 1 fl. 48 kr.) in 4 hrs.

Acherfi (p. 217) is the starting point for the above tour;
if it be reached about the middle of the day, the Turenne
Monument (p. 217), the Erlenbad and the Lunatic Asylum may
be visited in the course of the afternoon.

The road to AUerheiligen leads through the Cappeler Tkaly
a pleasant, green dale (to the 1. on the height, the Brigitten-
schloss, p. 252 ; in the valley, a Morocco leather factory), past
the villages of Cappel (3 M.; ♦Ochs), Ottenhofen (3 M.) (♦Linde;
•Pflug; beer at Birk's. — The "Edelfraulein's Grab," a pic-
turesque waterfall, about 1 M. to the S.)) then into the valley
to the r. to Neuhaus (2 M.; Erbprinz). Here the path leaves the
road. The former skirts the hillside to the r., leading straight
past a solitary house (5 min.; ascent to the r. to be avoided^
into the wood. At the top is a signpost where a short cut
descends to the r. by numerous windings to {% hr.) *Aller'
heiligen (2000 ft.). The first glance on issuing from the
wood at the top is very, striking. The grand ruins of the
abbey, founded in 1196 by the Duchess Uta of Schauenburg,
secularized in 1802, and partially destroyed by lightning ii^
1803, occupy almost the entire breadth of the wooded dale.
In exploring them the traveller should use the utmost caution;
a Prussian gentleman lost his life in Aug., 1862, by falling
from the highest point Good accommodation at ifittenmaier^&
(pension 2 fl.). One-horse carriage to Achern in 2 hrs. 3 y, fl.,
to Oppenau in ly, hr. 2^/^ fl., to Griesbach in 2ys hrs. 5 fl.
to Stat. Appenweier in 3y4 hrs. for 6 fl. The Schweden-
schanze (p. 253) lies 6 M. to the S. E.; path through the
wood with guide.

Immediately below the monastery is a rugged mountain-
deft, through which the Grindenbach is precipitated over
masses of granite rock in 7 falls called the '^Sieben Butten'*'
(Seven Tubs), or *Btittezi8tei]i- Falls, some of them 80 ft.
in height, into the valley beneath. A well-kept path, cut in
some places through the rock, or supported by means of
ladders, descends by the falls to the (20 min.) bottom of the
valley (1700 ft.). From the second ^'Rondel" or platform the
double fall is seen to the best advantage.

At the signpost by the bridge beyond the falls the carriage-
road from Allerheiligen is reached, and continues on the r»
bank of the Lierbach (the name which the Grindenbach now
assumes), high up on the slope of the hill. [Pedestrians
coming from Oppenau must, after about one hour's walk,
avoid descending to the r., but go straight on till the above*

Black Forest RlPPOLDSAU. 63. Route. 255

mentioned bridge (4 M. from Oppenau) is reached.] The road
gradually descends to Oppenau {*Stahibad; Post), a small
town about 5 M. from Allerheiligen, where "Kirschwasser" ia
manufactured in large quantities, and then enters the delight-
ful valley of the impetuous Renck, on which the Kniebis-
Baths (4% M.) are situated. The first of these is a sulphur-
bath at Freyersbaeh, a second is at Petersthal (^4 M.), and
the last a chalybeate spring at Griesbaeh, about 2 M. farther,
where casual visitors as well as patients may find good ac-
commodation. A fourth bath at Antogast lies about 3 M. ta
the W.

About 1 M. beyond Griesbach, three paths diverge from
the road to the r. ; of these the traveller should select that
farthest to the 1., a good broad track provided with benches
at intervals, which in y^ hr. leads to a flight of steps on the
1., ascending to an open space where a small waterfall is
seen, and a fine view of the valley of Griesbach obtained.

A few yards farther on the path, two other paths diverge^
but the same path (following the wires of the electric tele-
graph) must be kept straight up the hill. In 7 min. a sign-
post is reached, where the pedestrian must ascend to the 1.,
and in 12 min. he will reach a bench whence a fine prospect
is obtained of the W. slopes of the Black Forest, the valley
of the Rhine, Strasburg, and in the background the Vosges^
Another y^ hr. leads to a signpost where the path ascenda*
to the 1. ; 8 min. farther is another fine point of view, similar
to the last, but still more extensive, comprising the chain of
the Vosges with the Hoh-Konigsburg (p. 232) to the S. After
a straight ascent of 4 min. more the Hotzwdlder Hohe (3055 ft.),,
the highest point of the walk, is attained.

The path next descends through a fir-wood carpeted with
bilberry plants, and then winds across an open space down
to the road (% hr.) in the valley, by following which for
1 M. the traveller arrives -at Bippoldsau (1886 ft.), the most
frequented of the Eniebis baths, situated in a narrow and
secluded valley. Ttie principal constituent of the water is
sulphate of soda. The large bath - establishment offers every
comfort to the traveller (R. 48 kr., D. at 1 o'clock 1 fl. 12 kr.);
below it is a small cafe with newspapers, where a band plays
from 7 to 8 p.m. Omnibus (from June 15th to Sept. 15th) to
Offenburg in 6V2 hrs. (2 fl. 48 kr.); 1-horse carriage to
Wolfach 4 fl.

The old Benedictine priory or "A'/os^er/e," founded in the
12th cent., lies % M/- below the bath-house on the road,
which traverses this picturesque valley (15 M. in length),
following the course of the Wolfach. Farther on, a waterfall

256 Rintte 63. TRT6ER6. Black Forest.

is seen on the roadside, and beyond it a precipitous group of
rocks, with a summer-house. Six miles from Rippoldsau
Schaphckch (Armbruster) is reached, a long straggling village
upwards of 6 M. in length, and remarkable for the quaint
costume of the peasants and the carious construction of their
cottages. (The ground-floor is a stable, the first-floor the
dwelling-house, and above it a granary and hay-loft.) About
14 M. from Rippoldsau Wol&ch i*Salm, good Zeller wine)
is reached; it possesses a Town-house formerly a castle of some
importance, and is situated at the confluence of thQ-Wol/ach
and the Kinzig.

Those whose time is limited may take the omnibus (1 fl. 48 kr.)
at Sy^ a.m., arriving at Offenburg before noon, but one day
would be well spent in making an excursion to Hornberg and
Tryherg (by carriage, 5 — 7 fl., in half a day). The pedestrian
need not return the whole way to Wolfach, but on emerging
from the valley at the Kinzig-bridge may at once proceed W.
to Hausach and Hasslach.

The short distance (2 M.) between Wolfach and the Kinzig
bridge just mentioned is remarkable for the picture of industry
which it presents, as well as for its beauty; the road then
enters the valley of the Gutach, which at this point falls into
the Kinzig, and traverses a succession of rich pastures and
orchards to Gutach (3 M.; Krone; Lowe), and Hornberg
(3 M. ; *Po8f), an old place of some importance, and remarkable
for the picturesque costume of the peasantry of the neigh-
bourhood. The castle which contributes not a little to the
beauty of the landscape, was taken by Marshal Villars in 1703,
but soon afterwards recovered by the peasantry.

The most remarkable part of the whole excursion is the
walk from Hornberg to Tryherg (7 Vi M.). The road, in many
places hewn in the rock, winds through a series of the most
picturesque and well wooded ravines till the Tryherger Posthaus
is reached, where the valley widens. Here the road to the 1.
leads farther into the forest to St Gear gen and Donaueechingen;
that to the r. to {}/^ M.) the small town of Tryberg {*Lowe;
Post) situated 1850 ft. above the level of the sea, the central
point of the Black Forest, and principal seat of the watch
manufactories. (Furtwangler Brothers and Kellerer own the
most considerable of these establishments.)

The grand object of interest for the traveller is the
* * WaterfEill which is visible from a considerable distance.
The path to it ascends to the left by the Lowe; in 20 min. the
highest bridge over the fall is attained; 280 yds. beyond this
spot, from an open space on the 1. bank, a fine view of the
little town and the valley is obtained. The waterfall, the

Black Forest HAUSACH. 63. Route. 257

finest in W. Germany, is 542 ft. in height, and is divided into
seven distinct parts by huge blocks of granite, over which the
water is precipitated. The frame-work, like that of the Giess-
bach on the Lake of Brienz in Switzerland, is formed by tall
dark-green pines. The finest near view of the falls is obtained
from a mass of rock which forms the dam of the lowest fall;
the general effect is best seen from a grass-grown projecting
rock about 50 yds. from the bottom of the fall.

Those who have already visited the Kinzigthal will now
proceed from Tryberg in a S. direction over the hill to
Furtwangen (7 M.) {* Hotel Fehrenhach, good and moderate),
another watch-manufacturing town with a school for teaching
the art, whence a post-omnibus runs in 4 hrs. through Simons-
wald {Krone\ and the cheerful little town of Waldkirch
(J^Posti Iteb8tock)y to the railway stat. Denzlingen. — Two-horse
carriage from Tryberg to Simonswald (uninteresting road) 5 fl. ;
from the latter place through the valleys of Simonswald and
the Elz very pretty. One-horse carriage from Tryberg to Horn-
berg 3, toHausach or Wolfach 4y2, and to St. Georgen 372 fi.

We now return to Hausach (^^Post). Above the town
stands an ancient round tower, the remains of the princely
castle of the house of Furstenberg, destroyed by the French
in 1643.

Hasslach {^Kreuz)^ SYj M. distant from Uausach, is the
principal town of the district. It formerly belonged to the
principality of Furstenberg, and was destroyed in 1704 by
the French on their retreat after the battle of Hochstadt.

Steinach {Sonne), 2V4 M. farther, is an animated little
town; from the village and post-station of Bieberach {Krone;
Sonne) y 3 M. farther, a road leads %o Lahr (p. 237), 7 '/j M.
distant, passing the ruins of the Castle oi Hohen-Geroldseck
(p. 237).

Near (6 M.) Gengenbach (Adler; Sahn; Badtscher Hof)
the road crosses the Kimig, The village was up to the peace
of Luneville a free town of the empire, and owes its foundation
to the handsome old Benedictine Abbey.

Beyond Gengenbach the valley of the Kinzig continues to
widen. On a vine-clad hill at its mouth (37] M.) rises the
castle of *Ortenberg, a handsome modern edifice, founded
on the ruins of the ancient castle destroyed by Marshal Crequi,
which formerly commanded the entrance to the valley. It is
now surrounded by tastefully laid out and well-kept grounds,
the flowerbeds &c. being ornamented with stalactites. The
prospect is fine, and embraces the entire chain of the Vosges.
The castle vineyards, as well as those of the village of Orten-
bery at the foot of the hill, yield a good wine.
Babdeker's Rhine. 17

258 Route 63. HOLLENPASS. Black Forest,

Offenhurg (p. 236) is S^i M. distant. Extensive tobacco
manufactories on the road before entering the town.

c. HOllenthal, Feldbergr, Wiesenthal, Welirathal>

Albthal.

Comp. Map R. 62.

Ttvo days. From Freiburg to the ffimmelreich by carriage in I'/j hr.;
on foot tlirough the HoUenihal to the Stem Inn (4Vs M.), to the top of the
Feldberg in 3'/« hrs., descent to Todtnau in 3 hrs., where pass the night.
From Todtnaa to Lorrach 8% hrs. walk, or 4 hrs. drive, or to Bile in 5 hrs,
by carriage. To explore the Wehrathal would require a third day.

The broad and fertile valley of the Dreisam, bounded by
lofty mountains, through which the road lies, is not sufficiently
attractive to induce the traveller to traverse it on foot; it is
therefore advisable to take a carriage as far as the Himmel-
reich (9 M.). The road passes the Ldttenweiler Baths (p. 243),
on the 1. bank of the stream, Ebnet, Burg, and Kirchzarten
which lies to the r., and from which the upper part of the
valley derives its name. Soon after passing it, the road enters
a more mountainous district, the fertile tract at the commence-
ment of which is called the Himmetreich (Kingdom of Heaven),
on account of the contrast it presents to the deep and pre-
cipitous ravines of the Holle (Hell) which lies beyond, and at
the entrance to which is situated the ruined castle of Fatkenstein,

The so-called ^HOllenpass is y^ Ai. in length, and
resembles the Munsterthal in the Jura in its towering and
overhanging rocks. The most beautiful and wildest point of
the whole valley is at the *Hir8chen8prung, an imposing and
precipitous mass of rock, the clefts of which are overgrown
with firs and underwood. The narrow road which winds
through the pass, scarcely broader than required by the im-
petuous brook, was constructed by the Austrian government
in 1770, when the Archduchess Marie Antoinette, the bride
of the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XVI., passed through the
ravine on her way to France. The same pass was also the
scene of the celebrated retreat of Moreau in October, 1796,.
when pursued by the Archduke Charles.

At the end of the pass the picturesque Chapel of St. Os-
wald looks down into the valley from a projecting rock. The
Post-inn is first reached, and 1 M. farther the *Stern (R. 36 — 48,
B. 24, A. 12 kr.; guide over the Feldberg to the chalet of
Todtnau I fl. 12 kr., not absolutely necessary).

Here the road, which continues to wind up the hill, is quitted >
The traveller crosses the brook to the r., and ascends by a broad
and steep forest-track to the (40 min.) hamlet of Albersbach,
situated in the midst of verdant meadows. In 5 min. more a
cross is reached, where the path to the 1. must be taken; in

Black Forest. FELDBERG. 63, Route. 259

10 min. to the r., in the hollow, to the saw mill; in 10 min. more
through the gate to the r.; in 3 min. the least trodden path
to the L, leading to the Gaschpels Hof; after V4 hr. the stony
track into the wood must be ascended. The two paths which
separate at the pine-stump (12 min.), soon unite again, and
lead in 5 min. to flat pasture land with a cross on the 1. On
entering the wood again the turning to the 1. must be avoided;
after 8 min. another tnniing to the 1. must be avoided ; in 5 min.
more, to the r. again, along the grassy path by the wood in
the direction of the white roof of the Baldenyoeg Chalet, In
Vj hr. 3 cottages, called ^t</ dem Rinken^ are reached, at the
last of which the narrow path ascends to the r. through
meadows into the wood; in 25 min. more the above-mentioned
chalet (^'Viehhutte") is reached, where refreshments may be
procured, and accommodation for the night if necessary. From
this point to the Feldberg and Seebuck there are no regular
paths, but, unless the weather be foggy, the services of a guide
may be dispensed with.

The traveller now stands at the foot of the peak of the
Feldberg, which may easily be attained in Yg hr. Though the
path can scarcely be distinguished, the pedestrian cannot well
go wrong; he must continue to ascend round the E. and S.E.
slopes of the mountain; he will then reach the ridge which
connects the summit, or Hockste, with the Seebuck, which in a
S.E. direction forms a continuation of the Feldberg table-land ;
a few min, more will bring him to the tower {Friedrich-
Louiseri'Tkunn), the keys of which are kept in the Todtnau
Chalet (see below). It occupies the summit of the Feldberg:
(4590 ft), and is the highest point in the Black Forest, com-
manding a magnificent prospect. The distant view is similar
to that from the Blauen (p. 247).

Another path to the Feldberg leads from the *' Stern" to
the r. to (15 min.) Hinterzarten , (30 min.) Oberzarten, (1 hr.)
Zipfelhof; thence along the course of the Seebach to the
(15 min.) Feldsee (see below); through forest, ascending to the
(35 min.) Lenzkirch Chalet (refreshments in the Menzenschwand
Chalet in the vicinity), whence, following the ridge of the
mountain, the traveller reaches the Hochste.

Following the ridge which connects the Hochste with the
Seebuck in a S.E. direction, a spot opposite to the Baldenweg
chalet is reached in about 25 min., from which a beautiful
*view, even more picturesque than that from the tower, is
obtained. Far below, in a basin enclosed by precipitous
pine-clad mountains, fed by several waterfalls, lies the Feldsee,
a small black-looking lake, drained by the Seebach, a brook
which traverses the romantic Bdrenthal and precipitates itself,

17*

260 Route 63. WIESENTHAL. Black Forest.

6 M. below, into the Txtisee^ the W. extremity of which is
visible from this point. Other distant valleys are also visible,
and the backgronnd is formed by the Swabian chain of
mountains, to the r. the basaltic summits of the Hohgau, the
Hohentwiel, Uohenstoffeln , Hohenkrahen, &c. — The path
down to the Feldsee, and through the Barenthal to the Titisee
well repays the traveller; it emerges at the lower (N.) end of
the Titisee on the Freiburg and Schaffhausen road, about
5 M. to the E. of the Stern Inn (p. 258).

Half an hour's walk W. from the Seebuck, and at the same
distance to the S. of the Feldberg lies the Todtnau ChcUet, a
small inn, where the keys of the tower on the Feldberg are
kept (guide 30 kr.), and whence another beautiful prospect may
be enjoyed, especially of the Wiesenthal; in the background
are the snow-clad peaks of the Alps (p. 248).

From this point a broad and tolerably good path leads through
the ravine {Brandenburg er Thai), along the Wiese (in 2 hrs.)
to Todtnau (1995 ft.) (*OcA«, by the church, R. 30 kr.,
B. 24 kr.; Rossle), a clean and thriving little town, the highest
in the valley of the Wiese. The principal arm of the brook
rises below the Todtnau chalet, and emerges from its wild
and romantic ravine - immediately above the to wn, below which
it is joined by the Bergerhach. At Todtnauberg (Stern), 3 M.
to the N., the latter brook is precipitated over a rock, 200 ft.
in height. The old arms of the town — a miner with hammer
and pickaxe — prove that mining was the principal occupation
of the inhabitants in very early times.

The * Wiesenthal from Todtnau to Lorrach, below which
it opens into the plain of the Rhine, is about 27 M. in length.
The greater part of it is narrow and well- wooded, the most
picturesque part being that between Sohonau and Zell. One-
horse carriage to Schonau (in 1 hr.) 1 Va fl., to Zell (in 2 hrs.)
3 fl., to Schopfheim (in 2% hrs.) A^/2 fl., to Lorrach (in 4 hrs.)
7 fl. Diligence to Schopfheim in the morning, thence by
railway to Bale (see p. 264).

At Gheschwendt, iy2M. from Todtnau, a path to the 1.
diverges to Prdg, Todtmoos and the * * Wehrathal.

From the little town of SchOnau (* Sonne) ^ V/^ M. from
Geschwendt, with its extensive cotton-factory, the road leads
through a romantic and well-wooded dale to Zell {Lowe)^
7 Ya M. farther, another busy little town of weavers and cotton-
spinners.

Where the ravine widens, half-way to Schopfheim, is situated
the extensive grand-ducal iron-foundry of Hauaen, the birth-
place of the poet Hebel ; the village itself, concealed by fruit-
trees, lies on the r. bank of the Wiese. The inhabitants of

Black Forest. LORRACH. 63. Route. 261

the upper part of the valley are Rom. Cath., those below Hansen
Protestant.

Schopfheim i*P/lug)^ 47, M. from Zell, is a clean little
town of some importance, and carries on a considerable traffic
with Bale; railway by Lorrach to Bale in 1 hr.; fares €6, 48,
33 kr. [The Wekrathal (p. 262) can be best yisited from Schopf-
heim. One-horse carriage to Wehr, along the Wehrastrasse to
Todtmoo8-An, back to Wehr, and thence to the railway stat.
Brennet on the Rhine above Bale, a drive of 5 hrs., for 6 fl.]

The Wiesenthal widens considerably below Schopfheim;
the stream is usefally employed in the irrigation of the land,
as well as for the supply of numerous cotton and other mills
situated on its banks.

Steinen {Ochb), the next village, is 3 M. from Schopfheim.
Above the village of Rotteln-Weiier (*/nn), about 4 Vj M. farther,
rise the extensive ruins of Schloss Rotteln, one of the largest
in the Duchy, commanding a fine view. It was formerly the
residence of the Margraves of Hochberg, and afterwards of the
Margraves of Baden; was taken by Bernhard of Weimar in
1638, and dismantled and blown up by the 'F'rench in 1678.

Ldrrach {*Hirsch, R. 36, B. 24, D. 48 kr.), the most im-
portant place in the valley i^y^ M. from Schopfheim and6M.
from Bale), is a modern manufacturing town, containing
extensive shawl, cotton, cloth, and other factories. (One-horse
carriage to Rotteln-Weiler 2%, to Kandern 4, to Zell 5, to
the Wehrathal and stat. Brennet 7 fl.

The *T1UUiiger HOhe, 2 M. to the S. of Lorrach, is a
point well worth visiting, as it commands a magnificent view
of the highlands of Baden, Alsace, Bale, and the Swiss
mountains. The foreground is formed by the broad and
fertile plain, at the spectator's feet lie the villages of Riehen
and Weil in the midst of orchards and vineyards. From
the terrace behind the church the view is still more extended,
and the garden of the * inn . commands the finest prospect ia
a W. direction. It was after a contest near this spot, which
terminated unfortunately for Germany, that the French general
Villars was elevated to the dignity of marshal.

Below Lorrach the road enters the dominions of Bale. The-
church of St. Chrischona, formerly a favorite resort of pilgrims,
now a Prot. missionary establishment, situated on a wooded
eminence above Riehen y commands a fine prospect similar to
that from the TuUinger Hohe. The road approaches Bale
through a succession of tasteful villas.

Travellers coming from the Feldberg, who are already
acquainted with the Wiesenthal, may prefer to continue their

262 Route 63. ST. BLASIEN.

excursion (on foot) as follows: From Todtnau to Geschwendt
(1% M.) in the Wiesentbal, then to the 1. to Prftg (3 M.)
(Hirschy, thence over a steep hill to Todtmoos (2527 ft.) (^*Adler)
in about 2 hrs.; from Todtmoos in the Wehrathal to (3 M.)
Todtmoos- Au {Inn), and from here to (9 M.) Wehr (*Kroney
R. 36, B. 24 kr.), a village with Grand-ducal iron-foundry.

The * * Wehrastrasse y a road made exclusively for the
transport of timber, winds through the grandest rocky ravine,
which commences ^^ M. beyond Todtmoos-An, and terminates
lYf M. before Wehr is reached, a length of about 7 M. It
is enclosed on both sides by lofty wooded mountains, and is
in many places so narrow that there is barely space for the
road by the side of the impetuous IVehra, The variety of the
foliage — the birch-trees, for example, contrasting with the
sombre firs which clothe the precipitous walls — render this
mountain-glen picturesque in the highest degree. In grandear
and wildness the rocks surpass even those of the Hoile (p. 258),
and extend for a much greater distance, the latter being only
y4 M. in length. At the S. extremity of the valley the tower
of Bdren/els is seen perched on the ridge of the mountain.

At the N.W. houses of Wehr a tract of meadow-land
commences, in which (lYj M. from Wehr, and % M- before
reaching the village of Hasel) the *Erdmdnnleinhohle, a stalactite
cavern, is situated. The schoolmaster, who lives next door
to the Pfiug inn at Hasel, keeps the key, and accompanies
visitors to the cavern, which must be illuminated (fee 30 kr.).
Like most other caverns, it contains its chapel, organ,
dungeon, &c., formed by the stalactites. It is inferior in
grandeur to those of the Harz mountains, but well deserves a
visit. Travellers wishing to proceed from this point to Schopf-
heim need not return to Wehr, as a good road leads direct
from Hasel to Schopfheim {^^^ M.).

Beyond Oeflingen, 3 M. to the S. of Wehr, the road emerges
from the valley of the Wehra at Brennet, a station on the
Bale and Waldshut Railway.

Another beautiful walk may be taken from the Feldberg
by St. Blasien down the Albthal to the Bale and Waldshut
Railway. From the Seebuck (p. 259) the path leads to the
Lenzkirch Chalet (% M.), then at the back of the Menzenschwand
Chalet (8 min.) to the r. to MenzenBchwand (Z^/^ M.), the
birthplace of the eminent painters Winterhalter, at whose
expense a handsome new inn has been erected, in which their
niece officiates as hostess.

From this point a walk of 2 hrs. down the Albthal brings
the pedestrian to St. Blasien, once celebrated for its wealthy

WALDSHUT. 64. Route. 263

and learned Benedictine abbey. The church, 'whose handsome
dome is a conspicuous object in the distance, was built in 1786,
■after the model of the Pantheon at Rome. The buildings
belonging to the Abbey were secularized in 1805, and have
fiince served for industrial purposes, a portion having been
converted into an inn.

Two miles farther is Ober-Kutterau, and S'/g M. beyond it,
Immeneich (small iim), where the new * Albstrasse commences.
It leads through wild, rocky scenery, and penetrates the
perpendicular mountain walls in 6 different places by means
of tunnels; far below rushes the mountain stream. About
9 M. from Immeneich the road emerges at Albbruck, a station
on the Bale and Waldshut Railway (see below).

Another interesting excursion is from the Seebuck, passing the Memen-
schwand Chalet and AltgloHhutte, to the picturesquely situated village of Aha.,
and thence in ly, hr. to the Schluchsee, a small lake abounding in fish, and
the village (3200 ft.) of the same name, a delightful spot, noted for the
salubrity of its atmosphere. Thence by the carriage-road to St. Blasien 7'/j M.

64. From Waldshut to Bftle.

By the Baden Railway in l'/,— 2'/2 hrs. Fares: 2 fl. 18, 1 fl. 33 kr.,
1 fl. Finest views to the left.

Waldshut {Rehstock)^ on the lofty r. bank of the Rhine,
is a station on the Baden railway to Schaffhausen and Con-
stance. Below Koblenz^ in the canton of Aargau , 1 y^ ^' ^^
the S.£. of Waldshut, the Aare falls into the Rhine, and near
it the Swiss-junction line crosses the Rhine.

The line only approaches the Rhine at intervals, as for
example at Dogern and Albbruck, where the romantic Alb-
strasse (see above) emerges. After passing several smaller
stations and traversing two lofty viaducts and one tunnel, the
train arrives at the station of Klein-Laufenburg,

Laufenburg (PosO? opposite to the station, on the 1. bank
of the Rhine, is in the canton of Aargau, picturesquely situated
on a rock, below which is the Cataract of the Rhine. The
salmon-fishery at this point is very productive. From the station
at Klein-Laufenburg a view may be obtained of the rocks
which here enclose the Rhine.

The line now runs along the bank of the Rhine which
here rushes impetuously over its rocky bed, the 1. (Swiss) bank
being precipitous and wooded. Sackingen {Bad or Lowe) is
a place of some importance, and contains an ancient church
which in former times belonged to a powerful and extensive
juonastery.

At Brennet the Wehrstrasse emerges from its mountain
ravine. The line next traverses the vineyards and gardens

264 Route 65, BALE.

oiBeuggen^ form erly a lodge of the Teutonic order, now an
asylum for children and training-school for teachers.

Rheinfelden (Schiff; Krone), on the 1. hank of the Rhine
in the canton of Aargau, was formerly strongly fortified and
was one of the bulwarks of the holy Roman empire. After
standing inoumerable sieges it was at last dismantled by the
French in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland.
Below the town another rapid of the Rhine forms a sort of
whirlpool, termed the ^^HoUenhakenJ**

Here the line leaves the Rhine and traverses the fruitful
plain which lies between the spurs of the Black Forest and
the river, passing the villages of Warmbach and Grenzach
surrounded by vineyards, and terminating at Klein-Basel.

66. B&le.

Hoteli. *Three Kings (PI. a) on the Rhine, R. 2, L. %, B. ly,,
D. at 5 o'clock 4, A. 1 fr. ; Schweizerhof at the Central Station, new;
Stork (PI. b), *Wild man (PI. c) in both R. IVi— 2, B. 1, Table d'hfite
at 1 o'cl. inc. W. 3, A. y* ftp.; Crown (PI. d), •Kopf (PI. e) both on the
Rhine. — In KUin-Bcuel on the r. bank of the Rhine, *Bear (PI. g),
*Kreaz (PI. h), starting point of the omnibus to the Wiesenthal (p. 260).
Baseler Hof opp. to the Baden station, alto a restaurant.

Cafte. *Cafedes Trois Rois, two houses above the hotel of the
same name. *Cafe national near the bridge, beer good; Caf6 Schild-
hof near tlie Elisabethenkirehe, both restaurants. Sommer-Casino, not
far from the Monument of St. Jacob; concert on Wed. from 6 to 9 p.m.
Thomma's beergarden, near the Central Station.

Conveyances. Omnibus from the station to the town (50 lb. luggage
free) ^/^tr.^ from the Baden to the Swiss station 1 fr. Cabs in the market-
place in front of the *^ Three Kings," and near the church of St. Clara in
Klein- Basel &c. ; charges for a ^/^ hr. 1 — 2 persons 80 cent., H — 4 pers. 1 fr.
20 c, by the hour 2—3 fr., to or from the station 1 — 4 pers. ly, fr., each
box 20 cent, extra. Two-horse carriages for \'% day 15 fr., for a whole
day 25 fr.

Railway atatiOBa. Baden station in Klein-Basel V4 M. (straight) from
the Rhine bridge (Swiss money not taken); duty payable on carved wood*
work brought from Switzerland 10 kr. per lb. — The stations of the French
and the Swiss lines are united at the Central Station at the Steinen-Thor.
The Baden line is preferable to the French, the country is more beautiful,
the carriages better and the fares more moderate. Paris time is 25 min,
behind B&le time.

Post and Telegraph OfBoe (PI. 15) in the Freien-Strasse.

Batha in the Rhine near the Munster, entrance from the Pfalz (p. 366).
Warm baths at Sigmnnd's.

Newspapera in the Reading club by the Munster. Strangers must be in-
trodttced by a member, perhaps the landlord of their hotel.

Sagliah Clrareh Serrice in the Three Kings Hotel.

B&le or Basel (comp. Baedeker's Stoitzerland), the principal
town of the canton Basel-Stadt (pop. 41,000; 9697 Rom. Cath.),
is first mentioned in the year 374 under the name of Basilea,
and appears to have been founded by the Roman army when
it fell back on the Rhine near the old Colonia Augusta Rau-
racorum, founded B.C. 27 by L. Munatius Plancus (now called
Basel Augst, 5 M. from Bale on the 1. bank of the Rhine).

BAlE. 65. Route, 265

The wealth of Bale has become proverbial; for this the town
is greatly indebted to its favourable position at the junction
of the frontiers of Germany, France and Switzerland.

The town lies on the 1. bank of the Rhine and is con-
nected with Klein-Basel on the r. bank by a wooden bridge^
280 yds. in length.

The *Munster (PI. 14), an imposing edifice, the two lofty
towers of which are visible from a considerable distance, was
formerly the Cathedral of the see of Bale (the bishop's resi-
dence is now at Soleiire). It was built by the Emperor
Henry II. in 1010 — 1019, and was restored in 1185, after
having been partially destroyed by fire. In 1366 the old
building was all but levelled by an earthquake, but is now
rebuilt in the Gothic style. Of the original structure the N.
portal, or St. Gallus gate-way, still exists, and is adorned with
statues of the evangelists, John the Baptist and other saints;
over the church-door is a relief presenting the wise and foolish
virgins; at the sides, in 6 niches, are the works of charity,
and at the top Christ on the Judgment seat and the angels
at the last day. The W, front under the towers, with the
principal gateway and two side- entrances belong to the
14th cent.; on the front are represented the Virgin and Child,
and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and benefactor of
the Church, with the Empress Helena; on the two side entrances
are two knights, on the 1. St. George and the Dragon, and on
the r. St. Martin. The towers, which are 205 ft. in heightj
were not completed till 1500. In the year 1431 the con-
vocation of the great Council in the Munster first began; it
consisted of upwards of 500 clergymen, whose ostensible task
was a "reformation of the Church in head and members,'* but
after having disputed for years without any result, and having
been excommunicated by Pope Eugene IV., the Convocation
was at last dissolved in 1448. The Church is open to the
public on Tues. and Frid. from 2 to 4 o'clock. The sacristan
lives opposite to the principal entrance (fee y, fr.) ; in summer
he is generally to be found in the Church at the above hours.

The interior of the llfinster was bereft of its most beautiful ornaments
in the great iconoclasm of 1529, but was re-decorated in 1852—1856 with
great skill, and is now one of the finest Protestant churches in existence.
The beautiful rood-loft of 1381 now serves to support the oi^an, a very
fine instrument, performances on which may be heard once or twice a week
in summer from 6 to 7 p.m. (adm. 1 fr.). The pulpit is of 1424. The aisles
and choir contain fine old monuments and tombstones built into the walls; in
the N. nave the old episcopal chair; also reliefs of the 11th cent, (scenes
from the lives of the martyrs); the font of 1465, and, on the pillar opposite
to it, the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of Rotterdam (d. 1536) with a
long Latin inscription. In the passage round the choir are the monuments
of the empress Anna (d. 1261), consort of Rudolph of Habsburg and mother
of Albrecht I., and of her youngest son Charles. The new stained-glass
windows, representing Moses and David, Peter and Paul, and the four

1^66 Jiouie 65. BALE. The Museum.

Evangelists, are by artists of Zurich and St. Gall, and the newest, representing
Clirist as Judge of the world, is from the stained-glass Institution of Munich.
The crypt, which belongs to the original edifice, contains relics of frescoes
of the 13th cent., and 6 sarcophagi of members of the family of the Margraves
of Baden-Durlach (1688—1709). A stair leads from the choir to the Council
Hall, in which one of the five principal committees used to assemble. It is
exactly in the state in which it was left 400 years ago. All that was con-
sidered worth preserving at the restoration of the church is kept here, such
as antiquities of the middle ages, fragments of the nine frescoes of the
celebrated B^le Death-dance, painted in 1409 in remembrance of the plague,
and erroneously attributed to Holbein. Here too may be seen the LdUenkoiug,
a large head formerly placed on the clock-tower of the Rhine bridge (taken
<lown in 1839), which rolled its eyes and protruded its long tongue (**LSlli")
at each stroke of the pendulum, erected in derision of the inhabitants of
Klein-Basel in conseqnence of a dispute with them.

On the S. side of the Choir are extensive * Cloisters,
built in the years 1362, 1400 and 1487, connecting the church
vith the Episcopal palace, and used as family burial-places.
Among the monuments which they contain may be mentioned
those of the reformers CEcolampadius (d. 1531) and Grynseus
(d. 1541), and that of a Frau Forcart-Merian on one of the
K. pillars, which possesses considerable artistic merit. These
-cloisters extend to the terrace behind the Munster, which
overlooks the Rhine, rising 75 ft. immediately above it, and
<lerives its name from an imperial Pfalz^ or palace, to which
it is said formerly to have belonged. It is planted with
chestnuts and affords a pleasing prospect of the green river and
the dark heights of the Black Forest. In its immediate vicinity
are situated the swimming and bathing establishments, and near
-the most W. of the latter is the Reading Club (p. 264).

In the street, leading from the Miinsterplatz in a N.W.

direction to the bridge, is the * Museum (PI. 13), open to the

public on Sund. from 10 to 12, and Wed. from 2 to 4; on

other days adm. 1 fr. It contains a picture-gallery and collections

of natural and scientific curiosities belonging to the town.

The picture-gallery is principally remarkable for the paintings and
drawings ' which it contains of the younger Holbein (b. at Augsburg 1498,
d. at London 1554). Ante-room. 1—11. Copies from Han* Holbein. —
-Collection of drawings. 1— S6. hy Holbein the younger ; 132, 133, 134, by
Direr. 157. Drawings of the "Last Judgment" in the Ludwigskirche at Munich,
by Cornelius. Room A. contains only pictures by Holbein: 6. 7. School-
master's signboard of 1516; *15. Erasmus of Rotterdam; *25. The Passion
in 8 sections, for which in 1641 the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria offered
the sum of 30,000 fl. — Room B. contains old-German pictures: 71. The
11,000 Virgins, by Grunewald; 61. Miniature of Luther, by Cranach. — Room C.
•or Bfile-room : 113. Battle of 8t. Jacob, hy Hieron. Hess; 127. Entrance into
Bale of the confederate ambassadors in 1501 to take the oaths of allegiance
to the Confederation, by Landerer; 136. Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn, by
Calame. — Room D.: 173. Lute-player, by Teniers ; Sleep the Type of
Death, by Carracci ; Macbeth and the Witches, by Koc/t; Abraham vi^vited by
the Angels, by Neher. — Room E. Birmann's Collection: 267. The Nativity,

* Photographs from the originals, admirably executed and published
by the directors of the Museum, are to be had of Mr. Georg, bookseUer and
dealer in works of art, near the Post-office.

Monument of St. Jacob. BALE. 05, Route. 267

by An. Carracci; *270. Madonna and Child, ascribed to Gherardtcia di Siena;
*281. Cardinal Fleury, by Phil, de Cfiamj)aigne; 282. The Adoration, by
Mabuae; •289. Portrait, ascribed to Rembrandt; 201. The Smoker, by
Teniers; 311— ;tt4. Pictures by Peter Birmann; 325—330. Pictnres by Sam.
Birmann (d. 1847). — The Cabinet of Antiquities contains Roman and
Greek: antiquities, statuettes &c. principally found at Augst (p. 264) and
Windisch; old ecclesiastical vessels, idols, Swiss coins, Etruscan vases.
Mosaics, &c. — The Mexican Cabinet contains a number of interesting
* Mexican curiosities, and among other objects of interest two mummies.

The Umversity Ijibrary in the same bnilding (adm. from
1 to 3) contains 70—80,000 volumes and 4000 MSS.; among
the latter are transactions of the church council, ^^The praise
of Folly" of Erasmus, with mariginal drawings by Holbein,
writings of Luther, Melancthon, &c. The University, founded
in 1459 by Pius II., is celebrated as the school of the great
mathematicians BernouilU, Merian and Euler, The hall contains
upwards of 100 portraits of the learned men of Bale, of the
cosmographer Sebastian MUnster (d. 1552), the reformers (Eco-
lampadius and Grynceus, &c.

The Town-Hall (PI. 16) in the Market-place was erected
in 1508 in the so-called Burgundian style, and renewed in 1826.
The fa<;ade is adorned with the town-arms (a black episcopal
staff leaning on a fisherman's grappling-iron). The two in-
scriptions mark the height which the Rhine attained during
inundations. In the court is erected a statue of Munatiits
Plancus, founder of Augst (p. 264), and according to some
authorities of Bale also.

The handsome Spahlen-Thor (St. Paul, PI. 17), erected
about the year 1400, deserves inspection; the other gates,
bastions and ramparts are converted into public walks.

Among other Architectural Curiosities of the middle
ages may be mentioned the Fischmarkt- Fountain (PI. 8), erected
in the 14th cent., the Spahlen- Fountain, with a bagpiper from
a design by Albert Durer, the Roman archway in the old
St. Alban*8 Monastery (PI. 1). The Barf usser -Church (PI. 2),
dating from the beginning of the 13th cent., with its very
lofty choir, now serves as a store-house.

The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. 5), a Gothic obelisk,
10 min. walk S.E. from the JSschen gate on the high-road
to the Munster-Thal, was erected in 1824 over the burial place
of Swiss soldiers who fell in 1444 fighting for the liberties
of their country. Large bodies of irregular troops had assembled
in France under the Count Armagnac, with 30,000 of which
the Dauphin marched against the Confederates at Bale. The
latter were stationed at the fortress of Farnsburg, about
15 M. S.E. from the town, and on the approach of the French
1300 men immediately attempted to force their passage to
Bale. After a desperate conflict they were all cut to pieces

268 Route 65. BALE.

near the Tillage of St. Jacob -where the last and bloodiest
struggle took place. The red wine (not of a very superior
quality), yielded by the vineyards which now occupy the scene-
of the battle, is known by the name of "Swiss Blood.*'

The Mission-honse (PI. 12) educates missionaries for the promulgation of
Christianity among the heathen. An excellent Society for the promotion of
the public welfare has existed in Bile, for 82 years, and has a very extensive
sphere of operations. Under its auspices are clothing-clubs, Stin day-school »
and classes for instruction in mnsic, singing, swimming Ac, popular libraries^
saving-banks, loan and sick-funds &c. &c. There are also similar institutions
in the neighbourhood, supported by contributions from Bfile, such as the
Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Establishment for the Education of Protestant Sisters
of Charity and Reformatory at Riehen, &c.

INDEX.

The pages printed In Italics refer to facts of minor importance.

Aare, the 263.
Aofaern 217. 226. 254.
Achkarreu 243.
Adenau 60.

Adolpbseck, ruin of 155.
Aha 263.

Alir, valley of the 56.155.
Ahrweiler 58.
Aix-la-Chapelle 6.
Albbruck 263.
Alhersbach 258.
Albersweiler 195.
Albshausen 87.
Albstraase, the 263.
Aldeguud 124.
Alf 123. 126.
Alkeu 126.

Alierheiligeu 254. 216.
Allerheiligenberg, the 91.
Alluer, castle of 40.
Alsbacher Schloss, tbel72.
Alsenz 189.
Altarsteiu, the 176.
Alt-Breisach 244.
Alt-Eberstein 214. 215.
Alte Haus, the 86.
Alte Manu, the 246.
Altena 41.
Altenahr 59.
Alteubamberg 189.
Alteuberg, abbey of 38.
Altenburg, ruin of 126.
Altenhundem 41.
Altglashiitte 263.
Altkouig, the 169. 167.
Alt-Leiuiugeu , castle of

190.
Alzette, the 116.
8t. Amarin 236. 231.
Amerougeu 15.
Ameyde 14.
Amsterdam 17.
Au der Haardt 231.
An der Halde 243.
Audernach 65. 74. i47.
Aunweiler 194. 188. 195.
Aus 5.

Autogast 255.
Antonacum v. Audernach.
Autouiussteiu 71.
Autweiier 61.
Antwerp 6.
Apollinarisberg, the 62.

Apollinarisbrunnen 58.

St. ApoIIonius-Capelle, the
243.

Appelbach, the 189.

Appenweier217. 216. 236.

Aqui»granum y. Aix-)a-
Chapelle.

Arctaunon v. Saalburg.

Ardey mountains, the 22.

Aremberg, castle of 61.

Arenberg 75.

Arenfels 63. 148.

ArgerUoratum v. Stras-
bnrg.

Arieudorf 63.

Arnheim 15. 17.

Arnstein 85.

Arnual 198.

Arras, ruin of 123.

Arsheim 83.

Assenet 6.

Assmaunsluiusen 104. 88.

Astersteiu, the 82.

Auerbach 173.

Auggeu 245.

Aug. Nemetum r. Speyer.

Aug. Trevirorum v. Tre-
ves.

Aulhausen 108.

Aumeuau 87.

Aurelia aquensis v. Ba-
den.

Baal 11.

Bacharach 101. 88. 147.

Baden 210. 236.

Baden, Hans 247.

Badenweiler 246. 245.

Baderlei, the 84.

Baiersbronn 253.

Balden weg Chalet 259.

Balduinstein 86.

Bale 264. 245.

Balkbausen 176.

Barbelstein, castle of 195.

Bbrdenberg 11.

Barenfels 262.

Barenthal, the 259.

Barmen 21.

Barr 232.

Bassenheim 74.

Bastenhaus, the 189.

Bauseuberg, the 74.

Beckiugen 114.

Bedburg 13.

Beerfelden 179. 175.

Beilstein 124.

Belchen, the 248. 237.
— Gebweiler, the 228.
Bell 73.
Belli ngen 246.
Bendorf 68.
Bennhauseu 190.
Benrath 24.

Bensberg, castle of 42.
Bensheim 173.
Bergerbach, the 260.
Bergstrasse, the 172.
Bergzabern 195.
Bermersbach 251.
Berucastel 122.
Bertrich 123.
Besselich, Hans 69.
Betteufeld 132.
Betttwe, the 15.
Betzdorf 41.
Beuern 215.
Beuggen 264.
Beul 58.
Bexbach 197.
Biburk 138.
Bickenbach 175. 172.
Bickensohl 243.
Bieberach 257.
Biebrich 137. 89. 146.
Bildstock tunnel, the 197.
Biugen 105. 89. 146.
Biugerbriick 109. 146. 89,
Binger Loch, the 104. 88.
Birgeler Kopf, the 148. 52,
Birkenau 177. 174. 178,
Birkenfeld 111. 109,
Birkenhordt 195.
Birresboru 130. 128,
Bischofstein 125.
Bischoffsheim 166.
Bischweier 211.
Bischweiler 222.
Black Forest, the 249.
Biankenberg 40.
Blankensteiu 22.
St. Blasieu 262.
Blaueu, the 247. 228.237,
Bleidenstadt 155.
Blucherthai, the 102.
Bludenberg, the 233.
Bockelheim, ruin of 109.
Bockenheim 166.
Bodendorf 57.
Bodenheim 226.
Bodenthal 104.
Bodingeu 40.

270

INDEX.

Bohl 195.

Bolverhahn, the 55.
Bolweiler 228.
Bombogeii 133.
Bouames 42.
Bonconica v. Oppenheim.
Bonn 43. 149.

Alte Zoll 46.

Miinster, the 46.

Museum of Antiquities
46.

Schloss, the 45.

Statue of Beethoven 46.

University 45.
Boos 110.

Boosenburg, the 134.
Boppard 93. 88. 147.
Bornhofen 95. 88.
Bos, the 133. 136.
Brandenburger Thai 260.
Braubach 93. 88. 147,
Brauneberg, the 122.
Brauweiier 13.
Braunfels 86.
Breisach 244. 243.
Breisgau, the 236.
Breitbacher Kreaz, the 56.
Breitenbach 235.
Bremm 124.
B rennet 263. 2ft2.
Bressoir, the 233.
Brey 92. 147.
Briedel 123.
Brigittenschloss, the 252.

254.
Brocicscheid 1.32.
Brodeobach 125.
Brohl 64. 147.
Brohlbach, the 64.
Brohlthal, the 69.
Broniserburg, castle 104.
Bruchhof, the 52.
Bruchsal 205.
Bruaeldreis, the 131.
Bruhl 149.

Brunhildenstein, the 169.
Brussels 1.
Bruttig 124.
Bubeuhauseii 89.
Buchholz near Boppard

94.
Buchholz near Mander-

scheid 131. 132.
Bndenheim 89.
Biiderich, island of 17.
Buhl 216.
Buhlbach 253.
Buir 13.
Bulach 209.
Bullay 124.
Bunte Kuh, the 58.
Burbach 41.
Burg 258.
Burgberg, the 13.

Burgbrohl 74.
Burgehi 247.
Burtscheid 9.
Buruncum v. Worringeu.
Burweiler 193.
Busenberg 195.
Bussang, Col de 236.
Buttensteiu Falls 254.
Butzbach 41.
Calcar 17.
Calcum 19.
Callenfels 110.
Callatadt 190.
Calvarienberg 58.
Camp 95. 88.
Capellen 90. 147.
Cappel 254.

Cappeler Thai, the 254.
Garden 125.

Carlsberg, castle of 197.
Carlsburg, castle of 102.
Carlshalle, the 113. lOif.
Carlshohe, the 10.
Carlsruhe 206.
Casselburg, the 130.
Castel 145. 167.
Castell 115.
Castellum JUagontiacum

V. Mayence.
Cast rum Dieitensium v.

Deutz.
Cat, the 88.
Caub 100. 88,
Champignon, the 173.
Chaudfontaine 5.
Chinee 5.

St. Chrischona 261.
Clarenthal 153.
Clef, the 115.
Clemeuskirche 109. 88.
Cleve 39. IG. 17.
Clotteu 125.
Cobern 126.
Coblenz 75. 120. 147.
Cochem 125.
Col mar 227. 244.
Cologne 25. 149.

*Apo8t]es* Church 33.

Archiepiscopal Museum
32.

— Palace 33.

Arresthaus 33.

Arsenal 32.

Bayenthurm 37.

Botanical garden 38.

♦•Cathedral 28.

St. Cecilia 34.

Cemetery 38.

St. Andreas 32.

Courts of Justice 32.

St. Cunibert 33.

Diorama 25. 34.

Fr^e harbour 37.

*St. Gereon 33.

Cologne.
Government - buildings

33.
*Gross-St. Martin 35.
*Gurzenich, the 35.
Hospital 34.
Iron-bridge 37.
Jesuits' Church 32.

* St.Maria im Capitol 34.
Mariensiiuie, the 33.
Mauritius Church 34.
Minoritenkirche 36.
♦Museum 36.

8t. Pantaleon 37.

St. Peter's Church 34.

* Rathhaus or Town>

hall 35.

Roman tower 33.

Rubens' house 34.

Safety harbour 37.

St. Severin 36.

Synagogue 37.

Templars' lodge 35.

Theatre 32.

Town fortifications 38.

Town garden 38.

Town-wall 37.

Trinity Church 37.

•St. Ursula 32. '

Zoological garden 37.
Colonia Agrippina v. Co-
logne.
Colonia Augusta RcM'

racorum v. Bale.
Confluentes v. Coblenz.
Conz 115.
Corsika 178.
Cramberg 86.
Crefeld 11. G.
Crenzthal 41.
Croff 122.

Cronberg 170. 1G8,
Cronthal 170. 108,
Cues 122.
Culeuborg 14.
Curv« 89.
Dabo 231.
Dachsburg 231.
Dagsburg 227.
Dahn 195 188.
Dannenfels 190. 189,
Darmstadt 171.
Dattenberg 63.
Daun 128. 127.
Danner Maai:e 128.
Dausenau 84.
Deidesheim 192.
Deile, the 21.
Denzlingen 238. 2H7.
Dernau 59.

Deurenburg, ruin of 96.
Deutz 38. 25.
Devil's Ladder 103.
Dhaun, ruins of 110.

INDEX.

271

Dieblich 126.

Diedei)bergeii 167.

Dielkirchen 189. 188.

Oiemerstein, ruin of 196.

Dietenmiihie 151.

Dietkirchen 87.

Dietz 86.

Dill, valley of the 41.

Dilldorf 21.

Dillingen 114.

Dilsberg, castle of 186.

Dinglingen 237.

Dinkholder Bruuneu 93.

Dissibodenberg 110. 114.

Dockweiler 129.

Dogern 263.

Dolbain 6.

Dombruch, the 49.

Donaueschingen 256.

Donnersberg, the 189. 188,

Donnersberger Hof, farm-
house of 189.

Doorenward, castle of 15.

Dormagen 39.

Dornach 228.

Dortmund 22. 21. 23.

Drachenfels, ruin of 49.
53. 5.5.

Draischbrunnen, the 148.

Drei Furstensteiu, the 251.

Dreis 129.

Dreisam, the 237.

— valley of the 258.

Dreysen 190.

Dromra, the 178. 175.

Duhn, the 24.

Duinhoog 15.

Duisburg 20.

Duivelshuis 16.

Diilken 11.

Diimpelfeld 60. 01.

Diiren 13.

Durkheira 190. 188.

Durlach 206.

Durnomagus v. Dorma-
gen.

Dusemond 122.

Diissel, the 20.

Dusseldorf 18. 6. 11. 17.

Diisselthal 19.

Dutenhofen 41.

Duttweiler 187.

Dyck, castle of 11.

Dyle, the 1. 4.

Eberbach in the Oden-
wald 179. 175.

Eberbach in the Rhein-
gau 136. 80. 133.

Ebernburg, ruins of 113.
100. 188.

Eberstadt 172.

Eberstein 214.

Ebersteinburg 210.

Ebersteinschloss 215. 210.

Ebnet 258.

Eckfeld 127. 132.

Eckle, the 251.

Ede 15.

Edelfrauleins Grab 254.

Edenkoben 223. 188. 103.

Ediger 124.

Efringen 245.

Egisheim 227.

Ehrang 122.

Ehrenbreitstein 80.

Ehrenburg, ruin of 125.
94.

Ehrenfels 104. 88.

Ehrenthal 96.

Eibingen 134. 80,

Eich 74.

Eichberg 133. 80.

Eifel, the 126.

Eimeldingen 245.

Eineburg or Emmaburg 6.

Eisenberg 190.

Eitorf 40.

Elberfeld 21.

Elisabeth spring, the 112.

Elisenbrunnen, the 9.

Elisenhohe near Bingen
106.

Elisenhohe near Elber-
feld 21.

Eller 124.

Elsen 15.

Elseuz, the 186.

Elst 15.

EltvilleorElfeldl36. 89.

Eltz, Schloss 125.

Elz, the 237.

Emmaburg 10.

Emmendfngen 238.

Emmerich 16.

Ems 83.

Engeholle, the 100.

Engelburg, the 228.

Engelrath 33.

Engers 68.

Engersgau, the 68.

Eukirch 123.

Eunepe, the 21.

Eusival 5.

Epinal 236.

Eppstein 168.

Erbach in the Odenwald
175. 170.

Erbach in the Rheingau
136. 80.

Erdeuburg, the 42.

Erdmannleinshohle 262.

Erensberg IK).

Erft, the 13.

Erkelenz 11.

Erkrath 20.

Erienbach 195.

Erlenbad, the 216. 254.

Erpel 62. 50.

Erpeler Lei 62.
Ertzweiler tunnel 230.
Erzkasten, the 243.
Eschbach 193. 188,
Eschhofen 87.
Eschweiler 13.
Esemael 4.
Essen 23.
Ettenheim 237.
Ettlingen 209.
Ettringen 74.
Ettringer<Beller-Kopf 73.
Fachbach 83.
Fachingen 86.
Fahr 66.
Fahrbach 177.
Falkeuburg, ruin of 103»

88
Falkenlei, the 124.
Falkenlust 149.
Falkenstein in the Breis-

gau 258.
— in the Taunus 169. 108^
Favorite, the 215. 200,

210,
Fecht, the 234.
Feldberg, the, in the Black

Forest 259.
Feldberg, the, in the Tau-
nus 169. 167.
Feldkirche, the 66.
Feldsee, the 259.
Felleringen 236.
Felsberg, the, in the Eifel

129.
Felsberg, the, in the Oden-
wald 175.
Felsenmeer, the 176.
Fetzberg, ruin of 41.
Fijenoord 14.
Filsen 93. 88.
Finthen 140.
Fischbach on the Nahe-

109. 111.
Fischbach in the Taunus-

168.
Fleckertshohe, the 94.
Florsheim 167.
Forbach 251.
Fornich 65.
Forst 192.
Forstberg, the 73.
Fraipont 5.
Frankenburg, the, near

Aix-la-Chapelle 9. 12.
Frankenburg, the, in the

Vosges 232.
Frankenstein 196.
— , ruin of 172.
Frankenthal 225.
Frankfurt 156. 42.

*Ari<idneura, the 164.

Bridge, the old 162.

Borse (Exchange) 160.

272

INDEX.

Frankfurt.

* Cemetery 164.
Church of St. Catherine

162.

— of St. Leonhard 161.

— of St. Paul 16U.
Citizens' club 165.
Deutsch - Ordeushaus

162.
Diet 165.

* Diorama 157.
*Dom, the 161.
Exhibition of the Art-

uuiou 157.
Goethe's bouse 159.
Guard-house 163.
Hospital 163.
Judengasse (Jews' itr.)

163.
Liebfraueukirche 162.

* Monument of Goethe

158.
*— of Gutenberg 158.
— Hessian 163.
Micolaikirche, tlie 161.
Police-station 163.
Prehu's Picture gallery

162.
*R6mer, the 159.
Saalhof, the 161
Seuckeuberg Society

164.
*Stadel gallery 165.
Statue of Charlemagne

162.
Synagogue, the new 163.
Town-Library 162.
*Zeil, Uie 163.

* Zoological garden, the

166.
Fraukweiler 193.
Fraueustein 137.
Freiburg 238.
Fremersberg 210.
Frenz, castle of 13.
Freudenburg, castle of 115.
Freyersbach 255.
Friedberg 42.
Friederichsberg, the 68.
Friederichsteln 66.
Friedr. - Louisen - Thurm,

the 259.
Friedrichsfeld 174. 187.
Frucht 85.
Fursteuberg, ruin of 102.

88.
Fursteuberg, the 17.
Fiirstenlager, the 173.
Furth 177,
Furtwaugen 256.
Fusteubui^, ruins of 102.
Gaggenau 211.

Gammelsbacher Thai 179.
175.

Gans, the 113.
GauUheim 134.
Gausbach 251.
Gebweiler 228.
Gees 130.

Geiersburg, the 192.
Geileukirchen 11.
Geilnau 86.
Geisbach 251.
Geisberg, the 55.
Geisenheim 134. 89. 233,
Geldern 39.
Gemundeu 128. 131.
Geugenbach 257.
St. Genovefa , church of

74.
St. Georgen 243.
Georgenborn 156.
Gernsbach 214. 210. 350,
Geroldsau 216.
Geroldseck 229.
Geroldsteiu 102.
Gerolstein 130. 129.
Gerresheim 20.
Gersprenz 179. 175.
Geschweudt 260.
Geul, valley of the 6.
Geul- viaduct 10.
Gevelsberg 21.
Giersberg, ruin of 227.
Giessen 41.
Gilleufeld 127.
Gimmeldiugeu 192.
GlMlbach 11.
Glan, the 110.
Gleiberg, ruin of 41.
Gleisweiler 193. 195. 224.
St. Goar 96. 88. 147.
St. Goarshausen 97. 88.
Goch 39.
Godenhaus 63.
Godesberg, castle of 148.

48.
Goldenfels, castle of 102.
Gullheim 190.
Gondorf 126.
Gouuersdorf 75.
Gorxheim 174.
Gottsau 206.
Graach 122.
Grafeuberg, the 137.
Grafiuburg, ruin of 122.
Graf rath 20.
Graupeuwerth, Island of

42.
Grau-Rheindorf 42.
Greifensteiu, ruin of 229.
Greuzach 245. 264.
Griesbach 255. 253.
Grieth 17.

Grindenbach, the 254.
Grossenbaum 20.
Gross-Litgen 133.
Gross-Sachsen 174.

Grunde, the 253.
Grunstadt 190. 188.
Guldenbach, the 102.
Guls 126.
Gumpeu 175.
Guutersblum 225.
Giinthersthal, the 242.
Gunzenbachthal, the 212.
Gtttoch 256.
Gutenfels, castle of 88.
G ute Mann, chapel of the

67.
Haauenburg 56.
Haardt 193.
— , the 188.
Haberacker 231.
Hachimette 233.
Hagen 21. 41.
Uagenau 223.
Hager 231.

— Hof 56.

— Koppelchen 56.
Uahnebacb, the 110.
Uain 74.

Ualigarteu 135. 89. 133.
Hambacher Schloss 188.
Hammersteiu, ruin of 64.
Handschuchsheim 174.
Hanselmauii's caves 84.
Hardeustein, ruius of 22.
Harteuburg, ruins of 192.
Hartjesberg 16.
Uasebuhl, the 190.
Basel 262.

Uaselbach valley 98.
Haspe 21.
Uasselt 4.
Hasslach 257. 253.
Hassloch 195.
Uattenheim 135. 89.
Hattersheim 167. 168.
Hattiugeu 22.
Hatzenport 125.
Uaueu-£bersteiu 210.
Hans Loo or Candia 16.
Hausach 257. 253.
Uausen in the Taunus 102.

— in the Black Forest
260.

Hecklingen 237.
Heidekamm, the 56.
Heidelberg 179. 175.
Heidenbad, the 235.
Heideuberg, the 150.
Heideumauer near Durk-

heim 192.
Heidenmauer, the, near

Wiesbaden 150.
Heidenoord 16.
Heidesheim 146.
Heilbruunen, the 71.
Heiligenberg 185. 175.
Heilig-Kreuz 233.
Ueiligkreuzsteiuach 178.

INDEX.

273

Heinibach 68.
Ueimburg, ruin of 103. 38.
Meimeaberg, the 15.
Heimersheim 58.
Heisterbach 54.
Heifiterbacherrott 54.
Ueitersheim 344.
Helenenberg, the 148.
Helfenstein, the 82.
Heller, the 41.
Heltorf, castle of 20.
Hemmerich 53. 50.
Hemmersbach,castle ot 13.
Hemmessem 57.
Hemsbach 174.
Hennef 40.
Heppenheim 174.
Heppingen 57.
Uerbesthal 6.
Herchenberg, the 74.
Herdecke 2z.
Uergenrad 6.
Uerusheim 225.
Herrenberg, the 235. 231.
Herschwieseu 94.
Herxheim 190.
Herzogenrath 11.
Hesbaye, the 4.
Heterea 15.
Hillesheim 128.
Uilpertsau 251.
Uimmelreich, the 258.
Hinter-Weideuthal 188.
Hinterweiler 129.
Uiuterzarten 259.
St. Hippolyte 232. 227.

231.
Hirschenspruiig, the 258.
Hirschhorn 178. 115.
Hirtenfels, the 189.
Hirzenach 96. 88.
Hochburg, roins of 238.
Hochdahl 20.
Hochheim 167.
Uechkelch, the 248.
Hochkreuz, the 149.
Hochspey^r 196.
Uochst 166.

Hochstadter valley 173.
Hochsteio, the 73.
Hochwald, the 13.
Hofheimer Chapel , the

167. 168.
Hoh-Barr, castle of 229.

231,
HohkSDigsburg 232. 221.

231. 237.
Uohe A.cht, the 60. 74.

124.
Hohe Kelberg, the 124.
Hohe Wurzel, the 155.
Hohen- or Dreien-Egis-

helm 227.
Hohenfels 129.

Babdeker's Rhine.

Hoheu-Geroldseck, castle

of 237. 257.
Hohen Kandel, the 238.
Hohenlaudsberg 227.
Hoheu-Rappoltsteiu 227.
Uohensteiit hi the Eifel

129.
Hoheustein in the Oden-

ivald 176.
Hohensteiu, ruin of, near

Schwalbach 155.
Hohen -Sy burg, ruins of

22. 41.
Hohueck, ruin of 103.
Hohr 69.

Holle, the 258. 262.
Hollenhaken, the 264.
Hullenpass, the 258.
Holzwilder Hohe 255.
Homberg 12. 17.
Homburg in the Palati-
nate 197.
Homburg in the Taunus

170. 42. 168.
Honnef 56. 50. 52.
Honningen 64.
Hontheim 126.
Horchheim 90. 82.
Hordt 222.
Horn, the 60.
Horuberg 256.
Horngrabeu, the 132.
Hornisgrinde, the '2b2.il6.

217. 250.
Horrein 13. 39.
Hubbad 216.
Hummelsberg, the 63.
Hummerieh, the 67.
Hunaweier 233.
Hundem, valley of the 41.
Hiiissen 16.
't Huis ten Donk 14.
Huuingen 229. 245.
Hunnsriicken mountains

109.
Idar 111.
Igel 121. 115.
Ilbesheim 193.
Ill, the 218.
[mmeneich 263.
Inde, the 13.
Ingelheimer Au, the 138.
Irlich 66.

Isenachthal, the 191.
Isenburg in Alsace 228.
Isenburg in Rhenish Prus*

sia 68.
Issel 122.
Isteiu 145.
Jaarsveld 14.
Jacobsberger Hof 93.
Jesuitenhof, the 43.
Jettenbuhl, the 185.
St. Johann 197.

Johaunesborg 110.
Johauuisberg near Nau-

heim 42.
Johannisberg , castle of,

in the Rheingau 134. 89.

133. 146.
St. John, church of 91.
Jugenheim 175.
Jungfernsprung, the 195.
Kaiserberg, the, near Her-
decke 22.
Kaisersberg in Alsace 227.

231. 233.
Kaisersbergjthe, near Liuz

63.
Kaiserslautern 196.
Kaiserstrasse, the 190.
Kaiserstuhl, the, near

Freiburg 243. 237.
Kaiserstuhl , the , near

Heidelberg 185.
Kaisers werth 19. 27.
Kalkofen 86.
Kalmit, the 223.
Kalscheuren 149.
Kaismunt, ruins of 41.
Kaltebach, the 195. 188.
Kaltenborn 60.
Kaitenengers 68.
Kambach 12.

KammerbergerMiihle 102
Kander, the 245.
Kandern 247.
Kappeler Thai, the 243.
Karthause, the 79.
Kasbach 62.
Kasbachthal, the 63.
Kaskeller, the 123.
Katz, castle of 97.
Katzenbuckel, the 197.
Kauzenberg, ruin of 112.
Kedrich, the 103.
Kehl 217.
Kelberg, the 124.
Keltersbach 166.
Kempen 39.
Kempenich 60. 74.
Kempten 134.
Kenfuss 123.
Keuzingen 237.
Kerpen 13.
Kesselheim 69.
Kestert 88.
Kevelaer 39.
Kiedrich 133. 89. 137.
Kinderdijk 14.
Kiusheim, castle of 2:^7.
Kinzig, the 237. 256. 257.
Kippenheim 237.
Kirchen 41.
Kirchweiler 129.
Rirchzarten 258.
Kirn 110.
Kirsch 122.

274

INDEX.

Kislau 205.
Klause., the 135.
Klein-Basel 245. 2G4.
Kleiiienbruch 11,
Kleinkembs 245
Klein-Laufenburg 263.
Klingel, chapel 215.
Klopp, castle of 106.
Klosterrath, abbey of 11.
Klutert, the 21.
Kuiebis, the 253. 250.
Kniebis-Baths 255.
Koblenz in Switzerland

263.
Kohlscheid 11.
Kolmbach 176.
Kuin in the PaUtinate 189.
Kuuigsbach 192. 190.
Konigs-Born, the 140.
Konigsdorf 13.
Konigshofeu 217.
Ktinigskreuz 190.
Konigssitz, the 15.
Kouigstein 168.
Kunigsstuhl, the, near the

Donnersberg 189.
Kunigsstuhl , the , near

Heidelberg 185.
Konigsstahl, the, near

Rliense 92. 147.
Konigswald, the 235.
Kunigswinter 48. 14S.
Korretsburg, ruins of 74.
Krahnenberg, the 147.
Kralingeu 14.
Kreuzberg on the Ahr 60.
— , the, near Bonn 47.

149.
Kreuznach 112. 109. 188.
Krimpen 14.
Krippe 63.

Kronenburg, ruins of 114.
Kropsburg, ruins of 223.
Krotzingen 244.
Kruft 74.

Krufter Ofen, the 72.
Kruth 235.
Kiihkopf, the 79.
Kuhr 126.

Kunostein-Bngers 126.
Kuppenheim 210.
Kiippersteg 84.
Kybfelsen, the 243.
Kyll, the 130. 131. 132.
Kyrburg, ruins of 110.
Laach, abbey of 72.
— , hamlet of 59.
Laacher See, the 72.
Lac blanc 233. 231.
Lac noir 233.
Ladenburg 174.
Laeken 1.
Lahn, the 41.
Lahn, valloy of the 82.

Lahneck, castle of 92. 83.

141.
Lahr in Baden 237. 2^7.
— in the Seven Mountains

55.
St. Lambrecht 96.
Landau 223. 193.
Landberg, the 174.
Landen 4.

Landshut, ruin of 122.
Landskron, the, on the

Ahr 57.
Landskron, castle of, near

Oppenheim 225.
Landstuhl 196.
Langenan, castle of 85.
Langenbach 257.
Langenbrand 251.
Langenbriicken 205.
Langenfeld 24.
Langenlonsheiin 109.
Langeu-Schwalbnch 154.
Langeothal 178.
Langeaseifen 102.
Langerwehe 13.
Langwertherau, island of

136.
Laubbach 90.
Laubenheim 226.
Laufenburg 263.
Laukenmuhle 102.
Laurenbnrg 86.
Lautenbach 216.
Lauter, the 223.
Lauterbaoh 176.
Lay 126.
Leber, the 233.
Leberau 233.
Leberthal, the 227. 232.
Lehmeu 126.
Leimbacb 60.
LeiniMgen 190.
Lekkerkerk 14.
Leniaberg, the 89.
Lenne, the 22.
— , valley of the 41.
Lenxkirch Chalet 259. 262.
Leopolds-Canal, the 237.
Leopoldshohe 245.
Les-basses-huttes 234.
Les-hautes-huttes 234.
Leubsdorf 63.
Leuk, the 115.
Leuteadorf 65.
Licbtenegg, castle of 237.
Lichtenthal 212.
Liebeneck, castle of 93.

88. 147.
Liebenstein 95. 88. 147.
Liedberg, Sohloss 11.
Liege 5.
Liepvre, la 233.
Lierbach, the 254.
Lieser 122.

Lieser, the 131. 132.
Limborg in Belgium 6.

— on the Lahn 87.

— in the Palatinate 191.
Lindenbach, the 84.
Lindenfels 177. 175. 179.
Lindern 11.

Lintorf 20.

Linz 62.

Linzerhausen 62.

Lippe, the 17.

Littenweiler 243. 258.

Lobith 16.

Lochmuhle, the 59.

Lohnberg 87.

Lohrbacher Thai 178.

Lohrberg, the 55.

Lohrsdorf 57.

Longwich 122.

Lontxen 6.

Lorch 103. 88,

Lorchhausen 102. 88.

Lorettocapelle, the 242.

Lorrach 261.

Lorsch 174.

St. Louis 288.

Lousberg, the 9. ii.

Lou vain 3.

Lowenburg, the 55. 53. 56.

Ludwigseiche, the 172.

Ludwigshafen 224.

Ludw-igshShe intheOden-
wald 177. 172.

Ludwigshohe in thePala*
tinate 193. 223.

Lupodunum v. Laden-
burg.

Lurlei, the 98. 88. 147.

Lutterbach 228.

Lutzclburg 230.

Ltttzelstein, the 230.

Lutserath 124.

Luzieberg, the 173.

Luxembourg 116.

Madenburg, the 193. 188.
195.

Mahlberg, castle of 237.

Mahlberg-Kopf, the 84.

Maikammer 223.

Mainspitze, the 145.

Malchcn, the 172.

Malines 1.

Mallendar 69.

Malschbach 216.

Manderscheid 131. 127.

Mannheim 186.

St. Margaretheukreuz 55.

Marienberg in the Seven
Mountains 56.

Marienberg near Boppard
94.

Marienburg, ruin of 123.

Marienhausen 108.

Marienhohe, the 172.

INDEX.

275

Marienthal ontheAbr58.

— in the Rheiiigau 134.

— in the Palatinate 189.

— near Strasbiirg 223.
Hariibrunnen, ^he 136.
Markirch 233. 231.
MarJcsburg, the 93. 68.147.
Marsfeld, the 65.

8t. Martin, chapel of 93.
Marti nstein IIU.
Mastricht 6.

St. Matthias, chapel of 126.
Mattiaci fontes v. Wies-
baden.
Mau8, the 96. 147.
Mauseberg, the 127.
Mausethurm, the 105.
Maxau 208.

Maxburg, the 223. 1U3.
Mayen 73.
Mayence 138.

* Aqueduct, the 140.
Arsenal, tlie 144.

* Cemetery 145.
Church of St. Peter 144.

— of St. Stephen 145.
Citadel, the 139.
"^Dom, the 141.
*Eigel8tein, the 139.
Fortress, the 140.
Fruchthalle, the 143.
Grosse Bieiche 143.
Gutenbergsplatz 143.
Hall of Industry 143.
Kastrich, the 143.
Neue Aniage, the 145.
Palace of the Electors

144.

— Grand-ducal 144.
Statue of Gutenberg 143.

— of Schiller 143.
Theatre 143.

Meerfelder Maar, the 132.
Mermicher Hof 94.
Mehlem 51. 49. 148,
Mehren 128.

Meinerswijk, castle of 15.
Melibocus, the 172. 175.
Menzenberg 56.
Menzenschwand 262.

— Chalet 262. '263,
Mercnriusberg, the 215.
Merl 123.

Merode 13.
Merten 40.
Mertert 116.
Merzig 114.
Metzeburg, the 41.
Metzeral 231.
Michaelscapelle, the 206.
Michelstadt 179.
Miesenheim 74.
Millingen 16.
Milspc 21.

Minderberg, the 63. 49»
Minder-Litgen 126.
Mingolsheim 205.
Minheim 122.
Mitteiburg, the 179.
Mittcl-Harabach 224.
Mittelheim 135.
Molz-Bauer 243.
Mombach 177.
Mondorf 42.
Monrepos, castle of 67.
Mons Brisiacus v. Brci-

sach.
Montclair 115.
Montroyal 123.
Monziugen 110.
Mooswftid, the 243.
Mordnau 236.
Moresnet 10.
Morgenbachthal 104. 88.
Murlenbach 177.
Mosbach 137. 154.
Mosclkern 125.
Moselle, the 126.131.236.
Moselweis 126.
Moseuberg, the 132. 124.
Mouse-Tower 105. 146. 88.
Muden 125.
Muggensturm 209.
Mtihlbad, the 88.
Miihlburg 208.
Muhlhaiiscu 228.
Muhlheim 122.
Miihlhofen 68.
Mulhcim 24.
Mullenbach 125.
Mullheim 244.
Mummelsec, the 252.
Miinster in Alsace 234.
Miinster am Stein 113. lO'J.

188,
Miinstermaifeld 125.
Munsterthal, the 249.
Miinz, the 194.
Miinzenberg, ruins of 41.
Munzingen 243.
Murg, the 209. 214. 250.
Musbach 196.
Mutterstadt 195.
Nackenheim 226.
Nahe, the 88. 146.
Namedy 65. 147.
Nassau 85.
Nauheim 42.
Neander cavern, the 20.
Neanderthal, the 20.
Neckar, the 179.
Neckargemiind 186.
Neckarsteinach 179. 175.

178.
Necf 124.
Neerwindcu 4.
Neidenfels, ruin of 196.
Nennig 115.

Neroberg, the 89.
Neroth 129.
Nerothal 153.
Nerother Kopf, the 128.
Messonvaux 5.
Nette, the 67. 147.
Netterharainer 74.
Netterhof 67. 147.
Neu-Breisach 244.
Neucastel, ruin of 193.
Neudorf 137.
Neu-Ebersteiu 215.
Neuenahr, Baths of 5S.
— , castle of 58.
Ncuenburg 245.
Neuendorf 69.
Neueuheim 174. 186.
Neuenweg 248.
Neuhaus 254. 216. 253.
Neu-Katzenelnbogen 97.
Neumagen 122.
Neumageu Bach, the 249.
Neumiihl in th.c Black

Forest 249.
Neumuhl in the Eifcll32.

133.
Neuiuiihl in theyosges231.
Ncun Anssichteu 173.
Neunkirchcn in the Eifel

129.
— near Saarbriickcn 197.

111.
Neun Kriimme, the 176.
Neun Linden, the 243.
Neuss 39. 11.
Neustadt224. 188.190.196.
Neuwicd 66. i47.
Nickenich 74.
Nidda, the 166.
Niederbiber 67.
Nieder-Breisig 64. 148.
Niederburg s. Bromser-

burg.
Niederburg near Cobern

126.
Niederburg near Rappolts-

weiler 227.
NiederdoUendorf 48.
Nieder-Ernst 124.
Niederfell 126.
Niedergladbach 102.
Nieder-Hammerstein 64.
Niederhausen 109.
Niederheimbach 103. 88.
Nieder-Ingelhehn 146. 89.
Nieder-Kestert 96.
Niederlahnstein 90. 82.91.
Nieder-Liitzingen 74.
Niedermendig 73. 69.
Niederrad 166.
Niederschelden 41.
Niederspay 93. 88.
Niederwald, the 107.
Niederwalluf 137. 89.

18*

276

INDEX.

Niederweiler 245.

Niederwerth, island of69,

Nieder-Zissen 74.

Nierenhof 22.

Niers, the 39.

Nierstein 226.

Nieuwfoort 14.

Nieveni 83.

Nippes 64.

Nirm 12.

Nollicht or Nollingen,

ruins of 103. 88.
Nonnenstromberg, the 53.
Nonnenwerth, island of

52.
Norheim 109.
North Canal, the 11.
Nothberg 13.
Noveaium v. Neuss.
Niirbiirg, ruin of 60. 124.
Oberabstcinach 178.
Oberbeiiern 251,
Oberburg near Cobern

126.
— near Riidesheim 134.
Obercassel 48. 11.
Oberdollendorf 48.
Ober-Ernst 124.
Oberfell 126.
Ober-Hammerstein 64.
Oberhausen near Diissel-

dorf 24. 12. 23.
Oberhausen on the Nahe

109.
Oberkiroh 216.
Ober-Kutteran 263.
Oberlahnstein 91. 82. 88.
Ober-Liitzingen 74.
Obermossau 179.
Obernhof 85.
Ober-Reiflfenberg, rnin of

169.
Ober-Rirosingen 243.
Oberschaffhauscn 243.
Ob.-Schonmattenwag 178.
Oberstein 111. 109.
Oberstroth 250.
Oberweiler 245.
Oberwerth 90. 147.
Oberwesel 99. 88.
Oberwinter 52. 148.
Ober-Zissen 74. 71.
Ochsenstein, ruin of 231.
Ochtcndung 74.
Ockenfels, ruins of 62.
Odenkirchen 11.
Odenthal 38.
Odenwald, the 175.
Oderen 235.
Oeflingen 262.
Oelberg, the 54. 53.
Oestrich 135. 89.
Ofenkanlen-Berg, the 55.
Offenburg 236. 253. 258.

Oggersheim 225.

Ohligsberg, the 122.

Olbriick, niin of 74.

Oos 209. 216.

Oos- or Oelbach, the 211.

Oosterbeek 15.

Ophensden 15.

Oppenau 255. 216. 253.

Oppenheim 225.

Oranienstein, castle of 87.

Orbey 233. 231.

Orscholz 115.

Orschweier 237.

Orschweiler 227.

Orsoy 17.

Ortenau 236.

Ortenbcrg, castle of 257.
237.

Ortenberg, village of 257.

Ostend 6.

Ostern 179. 175,

Osterrath 39.

Osterspay 88. 147.

St. Oswald, chapel of 258.

Ottenau 211.

Ottenhofen 254. 250. 252.

Otteraweier 216.

Ottilienberg, the 232.

Otzberg, the 177.

Ourthe, the 5.

Palatinate, the Bavarian-
Rhenish 188.

Fannerden 16.

Papenkaul, the 130.

Paris 7.

Patersberg 98.

Paulinenberg, the 155.

Pelm 130. 129.

Pepinster 5.

Perler Kopf, the 74.

Petersau, island of 138.

Petersberg near Coblenz
80. 147.

Petersberg in the Seven
Mountains 53. 54.

Peterskopf, the 192.

Petersthal 255.

Petrusbach, the 116.

PfaflFendorf 90. 82.

Pfaffendorfer Hohe 81. 82.

Pfalz or Pfalzgrafenstein
100. 88.

Pfalzel 121.
Pfihgstbach, the 75.
Philippshalle, saline baths

of 191.
Pisport 122.
Plaidt 74.
Platte, the 89.
Plittersdorf 48.
Poppelsdorf 47.
Prag 262. 260. i

Pulvermaar, the 127.
Pulverthal, the 116. I

Piinderich 123.
Pyrmont, ruin of 125.
Queich, the 193. 223.
Quint, the 122.
Rabenlei, the 48.
Radscheck 73.
Rambach 151.
Ramersdorf 48.
Randeck, ruin of 189.
Rappoltsweiler 227. 231.

233.
Rasselstein 66.
Rastadt 209.
Rauenthal 155. 89. 137.
Rauhmiinzach, the 251.
Rauuheim 166.
Rech 59.
Rees 17.
Reichartshausen, chfiteau

of 135. 89.
Reichelsheim 179.
Reichenbach in the Black

Forest 253.
Reichenbach in the Oden-

wald 176.
Reichenberg, castle of,

near St.Goarshansen 98.
Reichenberg, ruin of, near

Neckarsteinach 179.
Reichenstein, ruins of 103.
Reichenweier 233.
Reichsbusch, the 12.
Reifer Mnhle, the 73.
Reil 123.

Reimerzhofen 59.
Reisberg 234. 231.
Reissen 177.
Reraagen 61. .5 J. 148.
Remiremont 236.
Rench, the 255.
Renchen 216. 217.
Renkum 15.
Renneberg, the 63.
Reuschenberg 24.
Rheinau, island of 136.
Rheinbollen 102.
Rheinbreitbach 56. 50. 52.
Rheinbrohl 64. 147.
Rheindiebach 88.
Rheineck, castle of 64.

74. 148.
Rheinfelden 264.
Rheinfels, rnin of 97. 88.

147.
Rheingau, the 133.
Rheingrafenstein 11^.188.
Rheinstein 104. 88.
Rhenen 15.
Rhense 92. 88. 147.
Rheydt 11.
Rhine-Marne Canal 229.

230.
Rhine-Rhone Canal 228.
Rhodt 193.

INDEX.

277

Rhondorf 55. .50. 52.

RibeAiiviller 227.

Richterich 11.

Riegel 237.

Rieheii 261.

Riesensaiile, the 176.

Rietburg or Rippurg 193,

Rigomagus v. Remiigeii.

Rimbach 177.

Riroburg, castle of 11.

Rimniench 129.

Rinken 259.

Riol 122.

Rippoldsau 255.

Rittershausen 21.

Rixheim 228.

Rochusberg, the 89. 134.

Rochuscapelle , the 106.
134.

Roohette, la, castle of 5.

Rockenhaiiseti 189.

Rodenstein, ruin of 179.

Roderberg, the 52.

Roer, the 11.

Roiadorf 149.

Rolandseck 51. 148.

Rolandswerth v. Nonneii-
werth.

Romerkessei, the 123,

Romersberg, the 127.

Rommersdorf 68.

Ronheido 6. ,9.

Rosenau, the 53.

Rossbiihl, the 253.

Rossel, the 108.

Rossert, the 168.

Rosskopf, the 243.

Ro^sstein, the 88.

Rothenfels 210.

Rothenfels, the 114. 100.

Rotteln 261.

Rotterdam 14.

Rottger Schloss, the 261.

Rubeacum v. Riiffach.

Rubenach 74.

Riidesheim 133. 89. 107.

Rudesheimer Berg 105.

Ruffach 228.

Ruhr, the 12.

Rnhrort 12. 6. 17.

Riingsdorf 48.

Runkel 87.

Rnpel, the 3.

Ruppertsberg 196.

Riisselsheim 166.

Rawer 121.

SaaJburg, the 170.

Saar, the 197.

Saarbriickcn 147. 111.

Saarbnrg in Alsace 2^)0.

Saarbnrg in Rhenish-
Prussia 115.

Saarlouis 114.

Sachsenhaiuten 162.

Sackingen 263.
Saffenbnrg, the 59.
vSahler Foundry 102.
Salvatorberg, the 9.
Salzig 95.
Sandan 136.
Saresdorf 130.
Sassbach 217.
Sassbachwalden 217.
Sauer, valley of the 103.
Sauerburg, the 103.
Saverne 229.
Saxler 127.
Sayn, Schloss 68.
Saynbach, the 68.
Schaafberg, the 215.
Schaefershof 231.
Schalkenmehren 127.
Schallerbcrg, the 55.
iSchallstadt 244.
Scbanzel, the 193.
Schapbach 256.
Scharfeneck, ruin of 193.
Scharfenstein 89.
Scharlachkopf, the 107.
Scharteberg, the 129.
Schau ins Land, the 243.

237.
Schaumburg, castle of 86.
Scheerkopfe, the 55.
Scheid 86.

Rcheiderwald, the 74.
Schenkenschanz, the 16.
Scheuern 52.
Schierstein 137. 89.
Schifferstadt 195.
Schladern 40.
Schlangenbad 155. 102.

137.
Schlettstadt 227.
Schliengen 245. 247.
Sohlossberg, the 242.
Schluchsee, the 263.
Schmalbach 251.
Schmalenstein , ruin of

206.
Schneidliain 168.
Schonan in the Black

Forest 260.
Schonau in the Odcnvrald

178. 175.
Schonberg near Freiburg

243.
Sch5nberg near Heidel-
berg 176. 173.
Schonbornslust 80.
SchonbuTg, ruin of 10O.<9(9.
Schonmiinzach 2.51. 250.
Schonstatt 69.
Schonstein, castle of 40.
Schoonhoven 14.
Schopfhcim 261.
Schriesheim 174.
Schuld 61.

Schwabenschanz, the 253.
Schwalbach 154. 102. 137,
Schwanheim 166.
Schwarzbach, the 168.
Schwarz-Rhetndorf 214.
Schwcdenschanze,the 253,
Schweich 122.
Schweighof 248.
Schw-elm 21.
Schweppenbnrg, castle of

71.
Schwepponhausen 102.
Schwetzingen 187.
St. Sebastian 69.
Sechtem 149.
Seebach in the Black

Forest 252. 250.
Seebach in the Palatinate

192.
Seebuck, the 259. 262.
Seelach 210.
Sehringen 247.
Senhals 124.
Senne, the 1.
Seven Mountains, the 53«
Seven Virgins, the 99.
Siebeldingen 193.
Siedelsbrnnn 178.
Sieg, the 40.
Siegburg 40.
Siegen 41.
Siraonswald 257.
Sinzig 63. 148.
Sirnitz, the 248.
Sobernheim 110.
Soden 169. 168.
Soersthal, the 9.
Solingen 20.
Sonnborn 21.
Sonnenberg, ruin of 151.
Sooneck, castle of 103. 88.
Sophienrnhc, the 246.
Spa 5.

Speyer 200. 186.
Speyerbach, the 196.
Sponheim 110.
Sprendlingen 113.
Sprink 127.
Stahlberg, ruin of 102.
Stahleck, ruin of 102. 88.
Staromheim, Schloss 24.
Starkenburg, the 174.
Staudernheim 110.
Staufen 249.
Staufenberg 236. 214.
Staufen burg, castle of 244.
Stauffen, the 215.
Steeg 102.
Steele 21
Stefflen 128.
Steigerkopf, the 193.
Stein, ruin of 85.
Steinach 257.
— , valley of the 178.

278

INDEX.

Steinbach 216.
- , the 186.
Steinberg, the 136.
Stein bora 130. 129,
Steiu-CalUufels, rulu o/

110.
.^teinen 261.

Steinhausen, cajitle of 22.
Stenzelberg, the 54. 53.
Sternberg 126.
Stcrnerhiitte, the 63.
Sterrenberg 95. 88. 147.
Stockbaiiseii 87.
Stolberg 12.
StolzenfelS} ca^jtle of 90.

147.
Stossweier 234.
Strahlenburg, the 174.
Strasburg 217.

Academy 222.

Artillery Barracks 222.

Bishop's residence 220.

* Cathedral 218.

* Church of St. Thomas

221.
' Citadel 222.

Desaix momimeut 222.

Gutenberg place and
statue 220.

*Kleber statue 222.

Museum of natural hi-
story 222.

New Church 221.

Statue of the Marquis de
Lezay-Marncsia 221.

Theatre 221.

Town-hall 22L

Town Library 221.

University 222.
Strasserhof 38. '
Streefkerk 14.
Strohn 127.
Stromberg 102.
Strotzbiisch 126.
Stuben 124.
Siichteln 11.
Sultz 228.
Sultzeren 234.
Sulzbach 111. 197.
Sundgau, the 228.
Swiss Valley, the 98.
Tabemae v. Zabern.
Taunus, the 166.
Temple, the, on the Mie-

derwald 108.
Tempelhof, the 126.
Teufelsberg, the 193.
Teufelshaus, the 66.
Teufelskanzel near Ade-

nau 60.
Teufelskanzel near Baden

214. 215.
Teufelsleiter, the 196.
Teufelssteio, the 192.

(Thann 228. 236,

Theodorshalle 113. 100.

Thiengen 243.

St. Thomas (Lunatic Asy-
lum) 147.

Thur, the 228.

Thurant, ruin of 126.

Thurmberg, the 206.

Thuruberg, ruin of 96.

Tirlemont 4.

Titisee, the 260.

Todtmoos 262. 260.

Todtmoos-Au 262.

Todtnau 260.

Todtnauberg 260.

Todtnau Chalet 260. 250.

Tonnisstein 71.

Traben 123.

Trarbach 122.

Trautzberg 126.

Trechtiugshausen 103. 88.

Treis 125.

Treves 111.

Trifels, ruin of 194. 188.
105.

Trimborn 10.

Trips, castle of 11.

Trittenheim 122.

St. Trond 4.

Trooz, le 5.

Trutzbingen 109.

Trutz-Eltz 125.

Tryberg 256. 253.

Tschiflik 197.

Ti'iUinger Hohe, the 261.

Uedersdorf 131.

Uerdingeu 12. 17,

Uerzig 122.

Uesbach, the 123.

UfTgau, the 236.

Ungstein 190.

Unkel 52. 50.

Unter-Grombach 206.

Unter-Reideibach 176.

Unter - Schonmattenwag
178. 175.

Urbar 69.

Urmitz 68.

Utrecht 17.

Vallendar 69.

Valwig 124.

Veitskopf, the 71.

Velp 16.

Veluwe 15.

Verviers 5.

Vesdre, the 5,

Vianen 14.

Vieille Montagne 10.

Viersen 11.

Vilmar 87.

Vilvorde 1.

Virneberg 56.

Virneburg 61.

Vohwinkel 20.

VoUraths, castle of 89. 133.
Volmarstein 23.
Volme, the 22.
Vorder-Langenbach 251.
Vosges, the 229. 231. i93.
Vreeswijk 14.
Wachenheim 192.
Wachten- or Geiersburg,

ruin of 192.
Wadenheim 58. 57.
Wagenberg, the 177.
Wageuiugen 15.
Waldbockelheim 110.
Waldkirch 257. 238.
Waldmichelbach 178. 175.
Waldsbut 263.
Wallersheira 69.
Wallhausen 111.
Walporzheim 58.
Wambach 156.
Waremme 4.
Warmbach 264.
Wartenstein, castle of 110.
Wartesberg, the 127.
Wassenach 71.
Wasserbiilig 115.
Weberlei, the 131.
Weeze 39.

Weghiibier Kopf, the 65.
Wehr 262.
Wehra, the 262.
Wehrathal, the 262.
Weiher 193.
Weil 261.
Weilbach 167.
Weilburg 87.
WeinfelderMaar, the 127.

126. 131.
Weingarten 206,
Weinheim 174.
Weiss, the 234.
Weissenau 226.
Weissenauer Lager, the

141.
Weissenbach 251.
Weissenburg 223.
Weissenthurra 67. 147.
Weiten 115.
Welters well er 189.
Welkenhausen, castle of 6.
Welmich 102. 88. 155.
St. Wendel 111.
Wendenheim 229.
Werden 24.

St. Werner, church of 101.
Werth 13.
Weschnitz, the 174. 175.

177.
Wesel 17.
Wespelaer 3.
Wesserling 236.
Westrich, the 196.
Wetter 22.
Wetzlar 41. 87,

INDEX.

279

Weyersbach 131.
Wichelshof, the 43.
Wickrath 11.
Wiebelskircheu 111.
Wiedbach, the 66.
Wiesbaden 149. 89.
Wiese, the 260.
Wiesenthal, the 260.
Wildbad 210.
Wildeiiburg 111.
Wildenstein 235. 23J.
Willgartswiesen 194. 188.
Windeck, ruins of, near

Baden 216.
Windeck, ruins of, near

Schladern 40.
Windeck, castle of, near

Weinheim 174.
Winden 195.
Windesheim 102.

Winkel 135. 89.
Winueburg, ruins of 125.
Winningen 126.
Winterberg, the 84.
Winzingen, ruins of 192.

196. 224.
Wisper, the 103.
Wissen 40.
Witten 22.
Wittlich 133. 126.
Wolf 122.
Wolfach 256.
Wolfsbrunnen, the 185.
Wolfsburg, ruin of 196.

224.
WoJkenbnrg, tlie 53. 55.
Worms 198. 225.
Worringen 39.
Wupper, the 21. 24.
Wuriuthal, the 11.

Wyk by Duurstede 15.
Xanten 17.
Yburg, ruin of 215.
Yssel, the 14. 16.
Ysselmonde 14.
Zaberu 229.
Zahlbach 140.
Zahringen, ruin of 238.

243.
Zauberhohle, the 108.
Zell on the Moselle 123.
Zell in the Wiesenthal 260.
Zeltingen 122.
Zicklenburg 56.
Zipfelhof 259.
Zorn, the 222. 230.
Zweibriicken 197.
Zweibruggen, castle of 11.
Zwiegabel 251.
Zwingeuberg 172.

Printed by F. A. Brockhaus, Leipzig.

pp*^

r u«. J'- -

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